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Full text of "The Priscilla crochet book; a selection of useful articles from the Modern Priscilla with several new designs never before published;"



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Use 
Only 
Utopia 
Yarns 



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Soft 
Even 
Elastic 
Strong 



UTOPIA YARNS 



WHEN you knit or crochet an 
article yourself you want it 
to be worth the effort you put into 
it. Utopia Yarns insure satisfac- 
tory work because of their superior 
quality. They are made of a strong, 
elastic staple having the necessary 
length to insui'e durability. The 
utmost care is given to the pro- 
cesses of spinning and dyeing, and 
each skein is finally rereeled by 
hand, giving that additional lofti- 
ness so much appreciated by every 
user of yarns. 

Hence Utopia Yarns are .soft, 
lofty, elastic, strong, even of 
thread, and permanent and uni- 
form in color. 



A trial of Utopia Yarn will con- 
vince you of its merits. 

Each skein bears the Utopia 
trade-mark. 



The Utopia Yarn Book is the 

most complete and practical Yarn 
Book ever published. It covers the 
entire subject of knitting and cro- 
cheting thoroughly, and contains 
absolutely reliable instructions for 
the making of all articles. 

Price, 25 cents, at all dealers 

of Utopia Yiun, or send stamps 

to the Manufacturers of Utopia 

Yarns, No. 4.'57 Broome Street, 
New York. 



^risiciUa Crotljet poofe 

A SELECTION OF USEFUL ARTICLES FROM 
THE MODERN PRISCILLA 

WITH 

SEVERAL NEW DESIGNS 

NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED 

EDITED BY 

LOLA BURKS HETTICH 

19 8 



PUBLISHED BY 
85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



Copyright, 1908, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Tradt Mart Reg. U. S. Patent Office 
All rights reserved 



fubfiARYofCOf.u^ESs'l 
Iwo Copies Keceive.' 

FEB 17 iy08 

t<ASS.A XXo. .Ml. 

j COPY e. 



CONTENTS 






Articles for Women 



Star Stitch 3 

Knot Stitch 4 

Staple Work 4 

Square Shawl 4 

Ladies' Petticoat 5 

Neck Protector 6 

Rainbow Scarf 6 

Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 7 

Cotton Skirt 8 

Evening Cape 9 

Ladies' Mittens 9 

Nightingale 10 

Knee Cap 10 

Ripple Shawl 11 

Auto Scarf 12 



Ladies' Slippers 12 

Auto Priscilla Hood 13 

Ladies' Jacket 14 

Ladies' Cape 16 

Shawl .■ 17 

Shawl in Staple ('rochet and Knot Stitch 18 

Ladies' Shawl 18 

Slumlier Slippers 19 

Fascinator 20 

Fascinator in Staple Work 2o 

Circular Shawl 21 

Silk Slippers 22 

Scarf 23 

Golf Vest 24 

Kimono 24 



Articles for Babies and Children 



Brownie Hood 26 

Carriage Afghan 27 

Bib 27 

Lifant's Band 28 

Bootees 28 

Bonnet 29 

Cap 29 

Cap 30 

Cap 31 

Hood 32 

Shawl 32 

Bootees 33 

Petticoat ii 

Bed Socks 34 

Socks 34 

Socks 35 

Bath Robe 36 

Nightingale 37 



Mittens 38 

Mittens 38 

Sack 39 

Bootees 39 

Ball 39 

Cloak 40 

Slippers 40 

Hood 41 

Napoleon Hat 41 

Napoleon Cap 42 

Cap 42 

Bib 42 

Carriage Afghan 44 



Sack 
Sack 
Sack 
Sack 
Sack 



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Articles for Women 






Explanation of Stitches 



Chain Stitch (ch st). Make a series of loop^. drawing each 

loop through the preceding one. 
Slip Stitch (si st). Insert the hook into the stitch, draw the 

wool through tliat stitch and through the wool on hook at 

the same time. 
Single Crochet (s c). Insert tiie hook, draw wool through, 

pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through 

both loops on the hook. 
Double Crochet (d c). Pass the wool around the Iiook, insert 

the hook, draw wool through; pass the uortl around the 

hook, and draw the wool through j loops, wool over, and 

again through ^ loops. 

Star Stitch 

Star stitch, when correctly made, is one of the best 
and prettiest stitches in crocheting, being suitable for 
almost every article crocheted of silk or wool where 
a close stitch is wanted. It is one of the simplest 
stitches in crochet and yet one of the hardest to 
■ give directions for, as no two persons will make it 
alike, and a little difference in the working of the 




Star Stitch 



stars may necessitate the putting in or leaving out 
of a number of extra stars in a row. The great- 
jest difference is made in taking the stitclies off the 
(hook, some pulling the stitches one way and some 
another. It is advisable for any one working 
jstar stitch for the first time to work a sample 
strip of single zephyr. Crochet a ch of 24 sts. 
Without throwing over the wool, skip the st 
next to the hook and draw the wool through the 2d, 
<eeping both sts on the hook. Take up the 3d, 4th, 
ind 5th sts the same way, making 5 sts on the 
look. These sts must be quite loose and must 
)e the same length. Throw over the wool and 
ake off all 5 sts together and finish the star 
vith I ch to hold it together. Now put the hook 
n the 1st st of the star going down the side, it 



Il.\Li. I'-iuBLE Crochet ih d c). Pass the wool around the hook, 
insert the hook, draw wool through; pass the wool around 
the hook, and draw the wool through all 3 loops at once. 

Long Crochet (1 c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert, 
draw wool through; pass the wool around the hook, and 
draw it through i loop, wool over, then through 2, wool 
over, then again through j. 

Treble Crochet (t c or tr c). Pass the wool around the hook 
twice, insert the hook, draw the wool through; pass the 
wool around the hook, <lraw through -• loojis, wool over, 
again through 2 loops, wool over, tluii .'igain through 2. 

being a short st and called the eye of the star, 
draw the wool through, then through back tlireaa 
of the next st iif the star, it being a long st ; then 
take up the next 2 sts of the ch, making 5 sts as 
before; draw the wool through all at once and work 
the I ch to finish the star. Repeat until you have 
ten stars. Croclut an e.xtra chain stitch and clip 
the wool. 2d row — Draw the wool through ch st 
at beginning of i st star, lie once. Chain 3, skip 
1st and take u]) jd and 3d. Xow notice there is a 
long and short st in the top of every star of the 
1st row. Take up llie back thread of the long st 
and lioth threads of the short st. There will now 
be 5 sts on the Iiook. Proceed as before, working 
a star over every star of the preceding row. Work 
four or five rows in this way. Now notice if your 
work at the ends is perfectly straight. If it slopes 
at the end where the wool is clipped off, you will 
have to work an extra star to keep it even, utitil 
vou have learned how to take your sts off the hook 
properlv. Don't forget this. It is generally caused 
bv keeping (he ist st tight u|iiin the hook when it 
should be loosest of all. There are two ways to 
wide!) star stitch. First l]'ay. — b'dur sts only are 
taken up, the short and long one down the side of 
the preceding star and the fourth one in the short 
st into which was put the last st of the preceding 
star. Sometimes two extra stars are put in this 
same stitch, and the term used is wi 2. Sccoini 
IJ'ay. — Take up the short and long st down the 
side of preceding star and the long st of star under- 
neath, making 4 sts. Take ofT as before, inaking 
one star. Now take up sliort and long st down side 
and short st of st;ir underneath. This makes two 
stars over one of preceding row, and the term 
used is wi by 2 over i. 

To Work St.\r Stitch in Circle. — Chain 4 on 
which work i star of 4 sts. Proceed as for widen- 
ing star stitch, working 7 stars of 4 sts each, the 
4th st of all 7 stars being taken in same ch as the 4th 
of 1st star. Join last star by si st to 1st. 




Way of Wouking Star Stitch in Circli-; 

2d roti'. — Work i star of 5 sts over ist star of 
1st row, wi I star. Repeat around circle. 

In tlie 2,d I'ozv widen every 2 stars and so on as 
directed. 



Knot Stitch 

Work the foimdation chain as called for in the 
directions for garment. Draw a loop out to about 
one-half inch, draw thread through, thus forming 
a long chain stitch, insert the hook in this long 
chain, separating the loop first drawn out, from the 
strand formed when thread was drawn through, and 
work a s c, draw out another loop same length, draw 




K.NOT Stitch 

thread through, s c as before, skipping the required 
number of stitches in foundation, s c in next. 
This is a group of knot stitch; some crocheters 
refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch 
as just half the group. Repeat as many times as 
directed. At end of row, work one group and a 



half, turn, and s c on each side of the s c at centre, 
or catch by s c into top of same, as some directions 
call for. 



Staple Work 

Also called Hairpin Work and Maltese Crochet 

Either buy or have made of good stiff wire, a 
staple 6 inches long and the desired width between 
prongs, a one and one-half inch staple being the 
most desirable. Tie wool around open end and let 
the finished work slip toward closed end of staple. 
When the staple is full slip the work off and roll 
up, tying it to staple to keep it from twisting, first 
slipping back on the staple the last two loops on 
both sides. 

Holding the staple so there 
is a right and left prong, insert 
the crochet-hook under the loop 
on left prong and draw wool 
through ch, which commences 
the work. Slipping the hook 
over the right prong, turn the 
staple over toward you, wrap- 
ping wool around the left prong 
as you do so. This will make 
the left prong now the right 
one. The crochet-hook must al- 
ways be inserted under the wool 
on the left prong from the side 
toward )'ou. Draw the wool 
through as above, which gives 
you two loops on the hook. 
Take off as in single crochet. 

In the old way of working toward the closed 
end of staple, the hook had to be taken out each 
time the staple was turned and inserted again. 
In working toward the open end it is just slipped 
over and is ready when the staple is turned. If a 
heavier centre is desired insert the hook under the 
left prong twice, making two single crochets. 



Square Shawl 

Materials. — Four balk of ice wool. Medium-sized bone hook. 

Chain eight stitches and join in ring. 

1st row — Chain 5, work i s c in 2d ch, ch 5, I s c 
in 4th ch, ch 5, I s c in 6th ch, ch 5, i s c in 8th. 

2d rim' — Chain 5, i s c in ist of 5 ch just made, 
ch 5, I s c in 1st group of previous row, ch 5, I s c 
in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 3, I s c in next group of 
1st row, ch 5, I s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 5, 
I s c in next group of ist row, ch 5, I s c in ist of 
3 ch just made, ch 5, s c in last group. This forms 
the corners. 




Staple Work 



3d roii — Chain 5, i s c in 3d ch of 5 which forms 
corner, ch 5, I s c in ist of 5 ch just made, ch 5, i 
s c in 1st group of 2il row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch 
at corner, ch 5, s c in ist of ch just made, ch 5, I 




Picgin the front gore with 42 ch, turn, and, be- 
ginning in the 3d st from the hook, work a half- 
(li)ulilc crochet ( h d c) in each cliain stitch. For 
the jd row, ch 2. wnrk a h d c in base of the 2 ch, 
tlien in every h d c of tlie 1st row. 
The fallowing rows arc workeil the 
same as the 2d row — the st in the 
base of tlic 2 cli making the widen- 
ing in each row. Skirt is 94 rows 
deep. 

For the side gore begin with 38 
ch and proceed as in the front gore 
e.\ce]it at the side which joins the 
front. This side is ke[)t straight by 
omitting the st in the base of the 2 
ch. Work the same numl>er of rows 
as in the front, then work the sec- 
ond side gore same as the first. 

For the back, cli 147. Work back 

and forth the same as in the other 

sections, omitting tlie widening on 

tluis keeping both edges straight. 

Work 6S rows clear across, then for the next 26 

rows work ~2 back and fortli each side of the 

pLacket. 

Fasten the wool in the right corner of the 
placket, and work a row of shells all around — ■ 
each shell of 4 d c, joined by a s c. 



Scji'ARE Shawl 

s c in 2d group, ch 5, I s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner, 
ch 5, s c in 1st of ch ju?t made, ch 5, i s c in 3d 
group in 2d row. ch 5, l s c in 3d of 3 ch at corner, 
cli 5, I s c in ist lif ch just made. Work 36 rows 
like 3d. 

For ring border — * Chain 2, wind wool around 
finger 12 times, in ring thus fiirnied work 2 s c. then 
2 ch, 2 s c in 1st ch of 36th row. Repeat from * 
all arotmd shawl. 

Work 4 more rows of ch like 36th row, catching 
the 1st of the 4 into rings with 2 s c. 

Wnrk 2d row of rings like ist, then 4 more 
rows of ch like 36th row. 

Fur frini/i- — * Chain 14, s c in 2d st of 5 ch, ch 
14. s c in 4th of 5 ch. * Repeat from * all around 
shawl. 

Ladies' Petticoat 

Materials. — Twelve skuin-^ of Lream-wliilc Slictlaml floss, J 
vanls of No. 4 rilitum, and a mclunn-si/ed Iione crochet- 
hook. 

This petticoat is made in four pieces — the front 
gore, two side gores, and the straight back. The 
work is done in half double stitch, made by throw- 
ing wool over hook, taking a stitch through the 
chain, then drawing wool through the 3 stitches on 
the hook. Take the stitches through the back and 
front ones beneath. 




L.VDIES' Petticu.\t 

Join the gores by |)lacing the straight edges of 
the side gores to the front, and the back joined 



to the bias edges of the side gores. Use the slip- 
stitch in joining the gores, being careful to have 
the ribs match. 

Begin at the left corner of tlio placket with ch 
5, and work a row of t c with 

1 ch between in every nhcr- 
nate stitch of the top of the 
skirt. This row is for the 
ribbon. 

The border is crocheted im 
the lower edge of the skirt. 
For the 1st row make a s c 
in every stitch of the edge. 

2d ro'di- — * Chain 5. skip 2 
st, s c in next st, ch 3, skip i, 
s c in next st, * repeat from 
the * across the row. 

Tfd row — Chain 2, * i d c in 
ch 5 of 2d row, d c in next ch 
5, (ch 2, d c) 3 times in the 
same ch 5. Repeat from * to 
end of the row. 

4//1 row — * Chain 4, s c be- 
tween the 1st and 2d d c of 
the 4 d c beneath, ch 4, s c be- 
tween the 3d and 4th d c of the same group" of d c. 
Repeat from * to end of the row. Repeat the 3d 
and 4th rows each 3 times. 

Tlie last row is made of 6 d c with 2 ch between 
into the 4 ch, fasten with s c into next 4 ch and 
repeat to end of the row. 

These directions make a skirt 29 inches long and 

2 1-2 yards wide at the lower edge. By making 
the skirt in gores there is no extra fulness around 
the hips. This garment is aliout right for a 24-inch 
waist, and may be increased or decreased at the 
beginning of the gores. 

Neck Protector 

Materials. — Four skeins of r,crmaiitowii, i skein Saxony, and 
3 yards of No. 5 satin ril>bon. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 74 stitches, 
turn, work s c in 3d st from the hook and in each 
of the next * 9 chains, 2 s c in the loth st, and repeat 
from * to end of the row. The 2 s c in every loth 
st makes the widenings. 

2d row — Chain I, turn, s c in each s c of the first 
row, taking up both stitches. 

2id ro'v — Chain 2, turn, and in each s c of the 
second row work a i)ulT stitch as follows : Throw 
wool over hook as for d c, take a st through the s c, 
throw wool over again, take up another st in 
same place, this makes 5 sts on the hook, then 
draw wool through all the sts on the hook, -and 
fasten by a s c. 

4//1 rozi.' — Chain I. turn, s c in each of the first 
9 puffs, 2 s c in the loth puff. Repeat to end of 



the row, widening in every loth st as in the first 
row. 

The 5//; and 6tli rows are repetitions of the 2d 
and 3d rows. 




Neck Protector 



The next 18 rows are repetitions of the first three 
rows. 

Fasten wool in the right corner of the neck, ch 3, 
work d c in every alternate st of the neck with I 
ch between the d c — this makes the spaces through 
which the ribbon is run. 

For the border fasten the wool at left corner of 
the bottom (ch I, 2 d c. ch i, 2 d c, ch i, 2 d c, ch 
I, 2 d c) between the 2d and 3d puffs, ch i, s c be- 
tween the 4th and 5th puffs. Repeat the above 
shells all around the protector. 

2d row — Chain 2, 3 d c in the first ch i of the 
shell, ch I, 3 d c in next ch i, ch i, 3 d c in next ch 
I, ch 2, s c in the s c between tlie shells. Repeat 
across the row. 

Last rozv — Chain i, 3 d c in first ch i, fasten 
with a s c in second d c of the first group, 3 d c in 
the next ch I, s c in middle d c of the next group, 
and repeat across the row. This makes a fluted 
l)order. 

Run ribbon through tlie spaces at the neck, leav- 
ing ends to tie. Fasten riblions in the middle of 
the front and at the lower corners to tie. 

This is very pretty and useful to wear under the 
wrap as a protection for the neck and shoulders. 



" ' • Rainbow Scarf 

Either Saxony or floss may be used for this work, 
about six skeins of white and half a skein of each 
of the colors used being required. The stitch used 
is original and is easv to do, fluffy in efifect, will 



keep its shape well. Use a medium-sized bone hook 
and work as follows : 

Chain 68 sts of the white, ist rozv — Turn and 
work back thus : Draw out st on hook to about 3-4 



detail and continue increasing one star every row 
between widenings until you widen every 8 stars 



in 0'/' i'o-lc. In 
back. Crochet 




Rainhow Scarf 

of an inch, pass hook under the single thread of 
wool, draw through st, pass it under wool, work 
a si st, I ch (in this way you work first st of 
every row). To make second st * pass hook 
through second, draw up to three-fourths of an inch, 
catch the wool and make 2 close ch ; repeat from * 
to end of chain. Turn and repeat from first row 
till you have worketl 76 rows in the white wool. 

To make the rainhozv stripe — Fasten in the red 
wool and work two rows, then, in the order named, 
— orange, yellow, light green, dark green, indigo, 
light blue, violet. Finish the end with two or more 
rows of white. 

To make the fringe — * Chain 35, fasten down in 
ne.xt st with a si st ; repeat from * to end of row. 
Finish both edges of the scarf with a row of knot 
stitch. 



Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 

The lining of this hood may be made of any 
of the heavier wools and in any close stitch. In the 
illustration it is made of Germantown. in star 
stitch. Of this material it takes two skeins. Four- 
fold zephyr would be softer and about as warm. 
and five skeins would be required. The outside 
is made of two-fold zephyr on an inch and a half 
staple, and it takes two skeins. One ball of silk 
will make the edge. 

For the lining — Chain 5; work a row of 7 stars 
of 4 loops each, and fasten in top of ist star by 
slip stitch. 2d roTi'— Widen cverv other star as in 



loZ/i rozv widen at centre top, and 

3 rows around plain and then, 
leaving off 6 stars at back, crochet 
8 rows across front without widen- 
mg. (See detail star st, page 3.) 

For the outside, crochet a whole 
skein on the staple. Cut off 60 
li>ii])s. counting loops on one side 
cinly. Draw a piece of wool 
through loops on one side of strip 
and tie tightly, which forms the 
centre. Join 2d roie to this by 
drawing 2 loo[)s of centre through 

4 of strip, b'asten ends together 
as neatly as possible. 31/ rojt' — • 
Draw 3 of centre through 4 of 
strip. 4th row — Draw 3 of cen- 
tre through 3 of strip. These 
four rows should run clear 
around crown. The next three 
should be joined to each other by 
3 loops and also to centre, leav- 
ing off 20 loops of centre at back. 

Pin the outside in place over the lining. Crochet 
the other skein up for frill and join to hood thus: 
Chain 3. catch by s c first into hood then into 5 




Ladies' Hood in Staple Work and Star Stitch 



loops of strip, making it as full as desired. A 
pretty finish is a strip of the staple work sewed 
on where frill joins hood. An edge of silk 
is then crocheted around the edge of frill and 
around both sides of strip sewed on, by crocheting 
chain 5 and catching in two loops of staple work. 
In this design the strip sewed on above frill is made 
on a smaller staple. 

Cotton Skirt 

This skirt is for a 26-inch waist and 46-inch hip 
measure. Use No. 8 tidy cotton and make a chain 
to go around the hips. In this skirt it was ^jt, chain 
which made 106 spaces. 

1st rozv'. — .A. d c into the sixth ch from hook (2 ch, 
a d c in 3d ch ) repeat until there are 106 spaces in 
row. 




Cotton Skirt 

2d yo'u\ — Three ch to turn, then 3 d c in each space, 

3J roil'. — Three ch, 2 d c in 2 d c (take up 1>oth 
loops to make it strong), 3 ch, miss 3 d c, 3 d c in a 
row. Repeat to the end. 

4//i row. — Three d c on 3 d c and 3 ch between. 
Repeat this row 20 times, which makes it long enough 
for the placket. 

Pin the ends over each other four spaces for the 
placket and in the next row work through it at once, 
this fastens, join on the beginning of the row. After 
making the placket work five rows around the same 
as before, only joining each time to the beginning of 
row. 



1st roiv of flounce. — Bfegin with 9 d c in a row, 
start from a solid block, if you do not end on one 
then slip stitch to one. Chain 3 and 2 d c in the block, 
3 in the space and 3 on the next block, the 3 ch on 
the end counts as a d c ; a butterfly scallop in next 
space made of 3 ch, now 5 d c in the space, but only 
worked off to the last loop until the last is made, then 
cotton over and draw all the loops together, 5 ch and 
again 5 d c in the same space worked off the same 
way as before, 3 ch and 9 d c in a row, three on the 
blocks and three on the space ; 3 ch and pass over the 
open space and begin from the beginning but without 
the 3 ch. Repeat until you have 13 butterfly 
scallop.s, join on the three chain. 

2d row of flounce. — Slip stitch over one d c, 3 ch 
and 6 d c on 6 d c and 3 d c on the 3 ch, making 10 
d c with the 3 ch in a row. * Now a butterfly scallop in 
the centre of the one below: 10 d c in a row, begin- 
ning with three under the 3 ch and 7 d c on 7 d c, I 
ch, nu'ss 2 d c, I d c in the space, I ch, miss 2 d c on 
other side, now 10 d c in a row and repeat from * all 
around. Join on the 3 ch. 

^d roiv of flounce. — Same as the second row except 
only missing I d c on each side of the indent, so 
that it makes 12 d c in a row on each side of the but- 
terfly scallop, and a d c on the d c in the indent. Re- 
peat this row seven times more. Of course the d c in- 
crease in number each row. 

////; row. — No increasing is done after this. Work 
as before but miss 3 d c on both sides of the indent. 
Work 7 rows like it. 

Scullofs in the indents between points. — Fasten 
cotton in the 4th d c on right side of indent; ch 3, 
a scallrip of 6 d c in the d c between points, 3 ch, a 
slip-stitch in opposite 4th d c. 

2d row. — Slip stitch up 4 d c, turn, 3 ch, 3 d c 
under 3 ch, one d c on each of 6 d c, 3 d c under 3 ch, 
3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c on point. 

j;d row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under 
3 ch, (3 ch, 3 d c on 3 d c), three times more; 3 ch, 
3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c of point. 

41I1 row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under 
3 ch, (now 3 ch and 3 d c over each 3 d c) four 
times in this row; 3 ch, 3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch 
in 4th d c on point. 

Repeat this 4th row five times more which will fill 
the indent between points. The last should be fast- 
ened right in the centre of the butterflies. Without 
lireaking the cotton slip stitch down the side of the 
point to the last 4th d c and repeat from the begin- 
ning. 

Border the scallops with butterfly scallops made 
like this: 

Fasten cotton on centre of a point, ch 3, 5 d c 
worked off to the last loop until List is made then 
draw cotton through all the loops, make in first 3 ch 
space, 4 ch, and again a wing of 5 d c in same place, 
3 ch and a slip stitch on the centre of 3 d c. Repeat 
this for each space of scallops all around. 



8 



Evening Cape 



Materials. — Thirty-two skeins Shetland floss, in yards satin 
ribbon No. 3 for the yoke, 3 yards satin riblion No. 40 for 
ties, and a lining of China sill;. 

Band. — INIake a ch of 84 sts, I d c in 3th ch. ch i, 
I d c ill 9th cli, so on till end of ch is readied. 




EvENiNf; Cape 

^(f roze. — Chain 5. i d c in d c, ch i, i d c in next d 
c, finish the row. 

jrf, 4th, and fith like -'</ roiv'. 

Yoke. — Chain 5, i d c in d c of preceding row, 
ch I, I d c in same d c, ch I, i d c in next d c, so on 
till 12th d c is reached, * ch I, I d c in next d c, ch I, 
I d c in same d c, repeat from * to end of row. 

2d, _?(/, 4th, stit, 6th, •/th, 8th, same as preceding 
row ; always widen in the widening. 

gth rozv. — One s c in every st. 

Cape. — Chain 5. 2 d c in first s c, ch I, 2 d c in 
same s c, 2 d c in 3d s c. ch i, 2 d c in same s c, 2 
d c in 5th s c, ch I, 2 d c in same s c. finish the row. 
I\Iake 9 rows like preceding row. 

nth roiv. — Chain 5, 3 d c in ch, ch i, 3 d c in same, 
3 d c in next ch, ch I, 3 d c in same, finish the row. 
Make 29 rows like preceding row. 

Flounce. — Chain 5, 3 d c in ch, ch I, 3 d c in same. 
3 d c between shells in preceding row, ch I, 3 d c in 
same place, 3 d c in next ch, ch i, 3 d c in same. 
^^'ork six rows. 

yth row. — Twelve tr c in each shell. 

Ruff. — In third row of collar band make nine 
rosettes, putting 36 tr c in each rosette. Finish all the 
edges of the cape with a chain of seven. 



Ladies' Mittens 

MATtRiALS. — Three ounces of twu-plj' zephyi. 

Chain 71 sts and join; make 34 stars on this 
chain ; work 8 rows of stars. .\t the beginning of 
the 9th row widen by working two stars over one, 
widen also the next star ; widen every other row. 
This makes the thumb, and there ought to be 12 
stars, when you widen the 5th row, including 
the 10 that are widened. Crochet another row 
after the 5 rows widened. Now drop off the 
12 stars for the thumb and chain 8 sts, and 
join to the 13th star. The chain sts must be 
picked up the next row. There ought to be 34 
stars around the mitten, and if too many, narrow 
at the thumb by taking two stars in one, crochet 
14 rows and narrow. Narrow two stars in one, 
crochet 2 stars between, narrowing all around the 
glove, crochet two rows, crochet i, narrow I all 
around, crochet I row, narrow two stars in one 
until only 8 stars remain, draw wool through last 
stitch. Break wool, leaving enough to close with 




Ladies' Mitten 

sewing needle. Pick up stitches at thumb and nar- 
row to 14 stars. Crochet 9 rows and narrow two 
stars in one until there are only 6 stars, finish as 
lie fore. Crochet a shell scallop at the wrist. 



9 



Nightingale 

Materials. — One pound 6 ounces of three-ply wool, 3 yards 
of white ribbon J4 inch wide, bone crochet-hook. 

Chain 108; that is enough for 35 groups, with 
2 ch between each group and 3 ch to turn around. 




Nightingale 

1st roiv — A group consists of * 3 d c, 2 ch, i s c. 
Miss 2 ch, and repeat from * till there are 35 groups 
in the row. 

2d roiv — Turn around with 3 ch, which you count 
as I d c in this group. You always put the group 
between the s c and first d c of the group in 
previous row. 

Continue till there are 184 rows, which make 
60 inches. It takes two rows to make one edge 
group. 

Work this pattern all around the nightin- 
gale three times. 

i.y/ roil' — Plain. 

2d rozv — Increase at the four corners by work- 
ing one extra group each side of the centre group. 

3rf row — Plain. 

Then turn back and work the same pattern 
around the opposite way three times. 

4th roil' — Increase at the four corners. ' 

5//; rozv — The same way ; no increase. 

6th rozv — The same way ; increasing at the 
four corners. 

To M.\KE Up. — Double the work end to end, 
and nine inches from each side of the middle front 
edge join together to form the fold at the back; 
ten inches farther down each front edge put some 
ribbon to tie the fronts together round the neck. 



Put two pieces of ribbon about five inches below 
this, and two more at the bottom of front edges. 

Cuffs. — Take two back corners; turn the points 
back five inches and tie the two points or corners 
thus formed together with ribbon. 

Knee Cap 

Materials. — Number g crochet-hook and 3 full ounces of four- 
ply wool. 

Work 42 chain rather easily. 

I.S/ rozv — Miss i ch and work 41 s c. 

2d rozv — One ch to turn, s c in back loop of each 
st in previous row, 41 in all. Repeat the 2d row 
till six rows in all are done. 

/til rozi' — One ch to turn, s c as usual in each 
of 20 sts, 3 s c in the front part of the next st, that 
is the front instead of the back, 20 s c to finish the 
row as usual. 

Now go on in this fashion, making a ch to 
begin, and the 20 s c each in the back of the st 
below. Then for the middle part, always working 
on the front part of the st, and putting 3 sts in the 
middle st every other row, and 20 s c on the other 
side of centre until there are 21 rows of the middle 
work ; then work 6 rows without increase, but in 
the same style. There should be 20 ridged, 21 
plain, and 20 ridged in each of the six rows. Now 
decrease a st in every row, by missing it altogether, 







mm 






Crochet Knee Cap 

or draw the wool through first one st and then the 
other, and then work the three loops on the hook 
off as if they were one st. Repeat until you are 
down to 41 sts again, when you work six plain rows 



10 



as at the beginning, or until the cap is large enough. 
Sew or crochet the two edges together. 

Note. — To make the cap smaller, either do fewer 
rows in the increasing part or underneath, or use 
a slightly smaller hook. To make it larger, do one 
or two extra plain rows. Practically the same re- 
sult of cap with less trouble will be attained by 
working in ridged crochet all along and increasing 
by putting 2 sts in the middle of every row instead 
of 3 sts in every other row, until the 6i sts are 
gained, while six ridged rows without increase 
must be worked. The decreasing is done by taking 
2 sts together everv row in the centre, keeping the 
ridged crochet as usual all the time. 



Ripple Shawl 

The shawl illustrated is a new pattern, com- 
posed almost entirely of knot-stitch. While the 
stitch should be made rather loosely, the knot should 
be drawn tightly to give the work the much desired 
fluffy effect. A shawl made in this stitch is sure 
to keep its shape, for unlike the very open shell 
work, it cannot sag. 



"■(iiLsi 


4' 


i#^^P' 


w 



Ripple Shawl 

This shawl will require 9 skeins of white and 2 
of colored Shetland floss. The shawl measures 25 
inches from the neck to edge, with a sweep of 26 
feet. If a deeper shawl is desired, make more 
rounds before putting on the border. 

Use a medium-sized bone hook, and work as fol- 
lows : Chain 5 and join. 

1st row — Work 12 d c in ring. 

2d rozi.' — Work 12 double knot stitches in the 
12 d c of last row. 



3J (;;/(/ 4//; rows — Plain (catching k st into k 
St in usual way). 

5//; rozu — Chain 2, make double k st, fasten in 
next st, * 2 plain, i d c between the ne.xt 2 k sts, 
repeat from * all the way around. 

You will notice that the 2 ch and the 3 d c sts 
make 4 widenings in this row; repeat the above 
row, always making 2 ch at the beginning of a 
row and 3 d c in 3 d c of last row, till there are 
40 k sts, or 10 sts between widenings. In the next 
row begin to widen iS times in a row, make 2 
ch, then 5 double k sts, then widen between the 5th 
and 6th st ; repeat all way around. 

Repeat the above row till there are 22 sts be- 
tween widenings. In the next row begin to widen 
16 times in a row. Widen in usual way. Work 
II k sts, and widen lietween nth and 12th sts; re- 
peat all way around. Repeat this last row till the 
sliawl is the desired depth. Fasten in the colored 
wool, and begin the border thus; Make 8 ch and 
fasten back in the 3d ch witli a si st, 3 ch, and 
fasten to the next k with si st ; repeat all the way 
around. In widening in this row do so by making 
2 of these sts in one k st. This to be done 16 times, 
midway between widenings of previous rows. 
After finishing row. tie and clip wool. Fasten 
wool to a picot of last row. Make 9 ch (this to 
widen), fasten back in 4th ch with si st, 4 ch, fasten 
to ne.xt st with si st. Repeat all the way around ; 
tie and clip wool. Fasten white wool to a picot. 
Now make the k sts the length of a ch st longer 
than those you made in the body of shawl (this to 
widen). Work the next three rows plain. In 
the 3th row widen 16 times in the usual way, only 
let the widenings come midway between those in 
jirevious rows. Make I or 2 more rows plain, 
and begin the scallop edge thus; * Make I k st, ch 
5. fasten back in k with si st, make i k st, and 
fasten down in the usual way. Now make 2 double 
k sts, and fasten down in the usual way, and repeat 
from * all the wav around. This will alternate I 
picot and 2 plain k sts all the way around. Tie and 
clip wool, b'asten wool to a k st to left of a picot. * 
make a double k st, then 12 t c in the picot, with I 
ch between t c, and fasten down to k with si st ; 
repeat from * all the way around. Tie and clip 
wool. Fasten wool to k between shells. * Work 
a k st like those in border, fasten to first t c of 
shell with si st, make 2 short k sts, fasten to next 
t c ; repeat all the way around shell. There should 
be 9 double k sts in all. Work i long k st and 
fasten to k between shells, and repeat from * all 
the wav around. Tie and clip wool. Fasten colored 
wool to a k between shells, and work around shell 
in short k sts. 

The k sts in bodv of shawl are about three- 
quarters of an inch long. If desired, they might be 
inaile one inch long from the directions given. 



11 



Materials. — Seven 
sized bone hook. 



Auto Scarf 

skeins two-fold Saxonv, 



and 



nieauim- 



Begin with a chain of Sy stitches. Turn and 
work a d c in the 5th st from the hook, d c in the 
next ch, then go hack and work a d c in the cii st 




hefore the first 2 d c, skip i ch, 2 d c, then d c back 
in the skipped stitch. Repeat to the end of the 
row, making 29 groups of d c. Turn and ch 3, 
and work a group over a group. Repeat this row 
until the scarf is the desired length. Crochet a 
row of shells across the sides — each of 3 d c into 
each row of the scarf. 

Cut the fringe into 20-inch lengths. Tie 3 strands 
into each group of d c and also between the groups. 
Knot 3 times, as seen in the illustration, beginning 
with 2 groups tied. Trim ends of the fringe to 
make it even. 

This scarf measures 2 yards in length and 15 
inches in width. 

Ladies' Slippers 

Materials. — Two skeins dark four-ply wool, 2 skeins light, 
and short crochet-hook to corresi)ond. 

These slippers are small 4's in size and are 
worked in a stitch that exactly resembles double 
knitting, and both sides being alike and the work 
solid and durable, it is admirably adapted for slip- 
pers, boots, afghans, etc. 



Begin with the darkest shade; work a ch of 14. 
On this work a row of s c ; at the end ch i, turn. 

2d row — One d c in the first st, taking up both 
edges of the loop; * i ch, miss i, i d c in the next; 
repeat from*. Always work a ch at the end of the 
row. Increase a stitch in beginning each row. 

3rf roti.' — One d c at the edge, I ch ; work a d c in 
the s c under the I ch st, in the first row, putting 
the hook right through the two sides of the st, I ch, 
a d c in the st under the next ch. 

4?/( ;uri' — The lightest shade, work in exactly the 
same manner, taking up the d c st of the second 
row. 

5?/i, 6tli ami jlli rows — The darkest shade, so 
making the darkest shade work into the lightest, 
and vice versa, but always 3 rows of dark. 

When you have 21 sts, counting from the first 
row on your work, divide for the sides. Increase 
in the first and third rows only on the outside, and 
decrease in the same rows on the inside; work 10 
d c on each side, and 21 double rows; work a row 
less or more if necessary for any given size. 

Knit Frill for the Edge. — Cast on 6 stitches. 

1st roii' — The needle into the st; wind the wool 
twice round the left needle, and over the first finger 
of that hand ; knit the st then as usual. Knit back 
the row plain. 

Knit 2 looped rows of the dark shade, i loop row 
of the light shade alternately, until you have enough 
to sew round the edge of the slipper. 




Ladies' Slipper 



12 



Auto Priscilla Hood 

Materials. — About j full ounces by weight of solid color ana 
nearly j ounces of trimming color for front; 3 yards of 3'i- 
inch ribbon (satin is prettiest) for strings. Black and cream, 
brown and cream, lirown and pink, or any preferred com- 
bination, can be useil. Rather a fine hook, about Xo. Ij 
or 13, to make each shell nearly or quite ,'i inch square. 

Take the crown color and chain 9 on wliich work 
3 stars. Now work around and around, widening 3 
stars at end, working one opposite each of the 
3 on other side the chain, then 5 across the end, 
keeping the stars along the centre even with the 




Auto Pkiscilla Hood 



stars already in the centre as much as possible. 
and so go on, around and around, increasing finally 
where needful till the work is about 7 inches across 
the narrowest measurement, that is, from side to 
side. Xow work 5 rows in s c, increasing where 
needful to keep the w-ork flat. Then two rows of 
star St. Then work two more rows of s c, but do 
not increase: one of d c; one of s c; one of d c; 
and now you begin to decrease. 

1st row decrease — Work the row in s c, tak- 
ing every 8th and 9th sts together, 

2d row decrease — Double crochet, taking two 
together over every decrease in row below. 



3(i ro'dj decrease — * Work 9 sts in s c then 
miss 3 sts, and repeat from *. 

^th row decrease — * Work 15 sts, miss 3 sts, 
and repeat from * all around. Any time the num- 
ber of sts does not come out even it docs not mat- 
ter. Break off the wool. 

You now work several rows to make the front a 
little deeper than the back. Mark the exact front, 
and also the back, with a piece of colored wool or 
cotton. Begin about a third of the way past the 
middle of the back, and work a s c in each st. 
Break off. 

For second slmrt row begin abtiut half way be- 
tween the front and back, or a trifle nearer the 
front ; measure your work and if it is more than 22 
or perhaps 23 inches whole width, 11 or 11 1-2 
inches in the half width, which it probably will be, 
decrease at regular intervals, but be particular to 
take the decreasings exactly over the decreases pre- 
viously made at the front, so that the front may 
look fuller than the back. If you do not get it 
decreased sufficiently in one row, work another the 
same way, but begin it within a few inches of the 
front, and end at the same point at the other side. 
The idea is to get the front of the crown fuller and 
longer at the front than at the back. Break off the 
wool. 

Front of IIood. — Use the wool selected for the 
front. Make an easy chain, which wlien closed in 
a circle will be as large as tlie circle of the crown. 
Count and put a measure in the exact half of this 
circle: work on this chain in s c till you come to 
the marked spot : put 2 sts in that spot, finish the 
rows as usual and join. Work five more rows 
in this wav, keeping the mark in place and always 
increasing a st as near middle of front as possible, 
[oin the beginning and end of each row at the 
finish. Mark the end of last row. 

\st shaping row — Slip st over about 8 sts then 
make 2 loose ch. and make a d c in next and con- 
tinue till you have a d c in each of 10 sts: then s c 
through the 2 top loops as usual of every st till you 
come to the i8th st from the middle mark at the 
fiack: tliis will be the 26th st from where you began 
the row. Work 10 d c to match tbd^e at beginning. 
Turn. 

2d shaping row at front — Make 2 ch, work the 
first 3 sts together as I st : then work 13 d c, al- 
ways taking up both top loops, go on with s c till 
there are iS sts left on other side: then work 15 d c 
and take the last 3 sts as one st. 

3rf vow — Take the first 3 sts together: work 20 
d c, 3 s c and si st : break off the wool: work the 
other side the same way. You may liegin at the 
end of row. 

4//; rozv — \\'ork in the same maimer, but only 
work 10 d c instead of 20. 

^th row — Fasten on as usual, taking 3 sts as one, 



13 



work 20 d c ; work in s c across till there are 23 sts 
left ; finish the row as you began it. 

6lh roiv — Begin as usual, work 25 d c ; 3 s c, i si st 
and break off, drawing the wool through the st, to 
fasten it. Do the other side the same way. 

yfli row — Begin as usual, taking 3 together, work 
25 d c, work in s c till you have 28 sts left. Work 
25 d c, then take 3 together. 

Note. — In working over the ends of the short 




Ladies' Jacket 

rows, it may lie found well to work ciuitc over 
them into the row Ix-low. It d.ies not matter so 
that they are neat. 

Front Turnovek. — Work evenly in star st all 
across the row just done, allowing 2 sts lo every 
star. 

Return rozv—Work 2 s c over every star in 
the return row. In working the s c in the return 
row, it is as well to only take the front loop of the 
star in I st and put the other into the hole in the 
centre of star. It looks a little better on the right 
side. Work this star row and s c return row till 
you have altogether 9 rows of star stitch with a 
row of s c between. Break off and fasten in the 
end of wool at the end of the star stitch row with- 



out working the row of s c ; run in the end. 

Put the front and crown together, seeing that 
the middle mark of front crown part is to the 
middle mark of front part, and that they are also 
even at the back; also be careful to so arrange them 
that the turnover will tin-n over and show on the 
right side of cap. If there is any spare fulness put 
it towards the front, near the top. Crochet them 
together, on the wrong side; if, when finished, the 
crown seems likely to be too large, run in a double 
strand of wool and tie to size. 

Then crochet a tiny flat scallop of 3 d c to a scal- 
lop with a s c between scallops, and arranged so 
that they are neither full nor tight. In the model 
a s c was in the centre of one star, the 3 d c in 
the centre of the next, a s c in the centre of the 
ne.xt, and so on. Around the back they were ar- 
ranged to suit. Remember the back of the hood 
nnist have the final row put so that it is right side 
out, and you must begin again to have the final 
row of front, right side out. 

Draw in all ends, and arrange ' ribbon. In the 
model about 26 inches were marked off, a single 
tie made in the middle of it, and it was arranged 
along the back, and the remainder cut off. This 
remainder was cut into two strings which were 
arranged with a single bow, fastened at the junc- 
tion of crown and front, and brought down across 
the ends of the back ribbon, and fastened. 

Xofc. — The front of the cap can be put back, or 
forward, however, and the strings arranged ac- 
cordingly. For cold trips it would be better if 
made to fit snugly. 

Ladies' Jacket 

For wearing under a raincoat this tight-fitting 
jacket is most desirable. The special points to 
which I wish to call your attention are — the ab- 
sence of plaits and belt, the collarless effect at 
throat, the tight-fitting back, and absence of under- 
arm scams. A medium-weight yarn and a firm, 
tight stitch, and small bone hook, are the most 
desirable in making a shaped jacket, as a loose, 
llimsy stitch would make a practically shapeless 
garment. For that reason crazy-stitch and Shet- 
land floss were selected. The body color is light 
gray with red trimmings. 

Alaterials used: One box light gray Shetland 
lloss and one skein of red. The garment measures 
as follows when completed, holding the work slack 
as measured. If stretched out it would measure 
several inches more in width, but not a material 
difference in length. Waist — 27 inches. Hips — 
32 inches. Bust — 36 inches. Back — 17 inches 
long; 13 inches wide between shoulders. Shoulder 
scam — 5 inches. Front — 14 inches long from neck, 
and 9 inches wide through the fulness. Sleeve — 
22 inches length of top arm, 16 inches under arm, 



14 



17 inches at widest point, and 8 1-2 inches at 
wrist. Having these dimensions given it will be 
easy for any one to measure herself and make 
changes in the work to correspond. Remembering 
that the work will stretch several inches in width, 
it will therefore fit a ^j or 38 bust, but will not 
stretch in length. 

Commencing at the waist line, chain 219 worked 
tight, turn and work 3 d c in ch 4 from the hook; 
skip 3 ch sts and s c into ch 4. ch 2, 3 d c into ch 
where s c was made. Skip 3 ch sts and s c into 
ch 4; repeat until you have 54 groups. Chain 3, 
turn and work 3 d c into s c of last row where ch 
3 seems to start from, catch by s c into top of ne.xt 
group and ch 2, make 3 d c into the opening made 
between ch 2 and the 3 d c of group; catch by s c 
into top of next group and repeat to end of row. 
Work 4 rows without widening, turn and work 15 
groups on 5th row; widen in i6th group by work- 
ing d shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, into opening where 
you iiave been making the ordinary groups. This 
is the method by which crazy-stitch is widened, 
and is to be followed when directions say widen. 
After widening, work ^^ groups, widen, 15 groups. 
This widening divides the jacket into fronts and 
back. Widen under arm every 4th row; that is, 
work 3 rows without widening, then widen in 4th 
row, being particular to keep places of widening 
right over each other. Widen 5 times under each 
arm (widening every 4th row). When you come 
to the 13th row, work 5 groups from outside edge, 
widen in 6th, 5 groups, widen in 6th, 7 groups, 
widen under arm. work across back, widen under 
arm, 7 groups, widen in ne.xt, 5 groups, widen, 5 
groups, which brings you to front edge if your 
work has been done correctly. The 14th row is 
plain clear across. Widen at points in front on 
15th row, working 6 groups, widen, 6 groups, widen. 
This ends the widening in fronts. After the widen- 
ing under arm in 21st row, work 9 rows across 
plain. Turn and work 10 rows of 18 groups each 
across one front; on iith row widen at armhole ; 
I2th row plain. We are now C(_)unting the rows 
from 1st short row. In the 13th row the narrow- 
ing begins. Work 9 groups from front edge, when 
catching down 9th group, catch into top of 2 grou|)s 
underneath at once and work a s c, 4 groups, and 
catch as before into top of ne.xt 2 groups by 
ISC, making the i s c connect both groups, work 
4 groups to armhole. Narrow again in 4th row, 
which will be the 17th row, at both points. In 5th 
row from other widening at armhole, widen again. 
When you have worked 50 rows, counting from 
base line, drop out 4 groups at front edge for neck. 
Now, beginning with this short row to count. 

2d row — Turn and work back to armhole, widen 
at armhole. 

3(/ rozi' — Turn and work back to neck. 



4tli row — Chain 3, and instead of working group 
in s c, catch Ijy s c into top of group where next 
group is to be made, thus dropping off the I group 
at edge of neck. Work back to armhole. 

5//; and 6th rozi's are plain. 

Jilt row — Leave off i group at shoulder seam, 
turn. 

8//( rozi.1 — Leave off' i group, at beginning of row 
at neck, working 8 groups back to shoulder seam. 
Break wool. 

gill rozv — Turn and tie wool in 2d group, work 6 
groups to neck. 

JO//; rozv — Turn and work 4 groups, break wool. 

1 1 '/; row — Two groups at neck point. When you 
l;ave finished one front work the other in the same 
manner, leaving off groups at neck and armholes 
to correspond to first side made. 

The back is then worked as follows: Tie wool 
in top of 4th group from front at armhole, working 
across to other armhole, leaving off 3 groups 
there also. Chain 3. turn and leave off ist group, 
wurk to end of row, turn, and leaving off ist group 
work to end of row, leaving off last group. The 
same is done at ends of next row, when your back 
should be 26 groups wide. Work 2^ plain rows, 
widen at each end of 24th; 25th row is plain. 
Leave off one grou]) at shoulder seam every 3 
rows until only 8 groups are left. This finishes the 
body of the jacket. The skirt is made by working 
13 rows of crazy-stitch in gray, widening in 3d row 
at two points, front and back of hips, thus: Widen 
in the loth group from the front edge, and in the 
loth group from that, working across skirt to 20th 
group from other front, widen in the 20th group. 
Work 9 groups and widen in loth, work 9 groups, 
which should bring you to front edge. 

The sleeve is begun at the top with the gray wool. 
Chain 52, on which make 13 groups; ch 3, turn and 
widen at beginning and end uf row. Widen at each 
end of 4th, 7th, 9th, I2th, 14th, 17th, 19th, 22d, and 
24th rows ; work 25th row plain, which brings the 
work to the under-arm extension. It is now 16 
inches across and 6 r-2 inches deep. Chain 11, 
turn and work 2 groups on the chain just made, 
which brings you to the row of groups, work across 
this and at end of row ch 11. turn and proceed as 
liefore. Work 6 rows across plain, then decrease 
one at end of next row. Counting the row just 
made as one, work 6 rows without decreasing, 
then turn and leave off r group at each end. 
Counting this last row, wDrk 6 rows again, then 
narrow and work rows more, narrow and work 
6 rows more. Then narrow and work 4 rows, 
always counting the row as one in which you leave 
oft' the groups at ends. Work 3 groups of 4 rows 
each. So continue to leave off i group at each end 
until you have only 16 groups. Work 5 rows of 
1 8 groups, which sliould complete 75 rows. Tie in 

15 



ihe red wool and work 8 rows red, then 4 rows 
gray, i row red. 

The sleeves now being finished, sew up the seam 
on the wrong side, fitting the jagged edges into 
each other, which if done carefully will make a 
perfectly flat seam. The shoulder seams should 




Ladies' Cape 

be joined in like manner. The sleeves are to be 
sewed in i:)v joining under-arm poiiUs and sewing 
without any fulness until at point at top, where 
all the fulness should be gathered into about 5 
inch.js. 

To give the jacket a double-breasted effect, tie 
in the gray at lowest point of front on one side, 



and at the neck on the other, to make the row 
wrong side out ; work row of groups to other end 
of front, turn and work a row of groups to waist 
line, turn and work a row, leaving otf last 2 groups, 
turn and work to end of row, leaving off 2 groups, 
continue until you have 7 rows, leaving off 2 
groups at end of each row. The 7th row will have 
about 16 groups. Around the whole jacket now 
work a row of red. 

If it is desired a loose straight front may be 
made by changing the row in which the widening is 
done in the front. Instead of widening in the 
13th and 14th rows, widen in the 2d and 3d rows, 
which throws the fulness lower down, leaving out 
the widening in the 13th and 14th rows, and cro- 
cheting the front plain until directions say narrow. 



Ladies' Cape 

Materials. — Eleven skeins of lavender Shetland floss, 7 yards 
of ribbon, and a medium-sized bone crochet-hook. 

The yoke is made first. It is formed of six sec- 
tions joined. For one section begin with a chain of 
15, turn and make 14 half-doubles (h d c) on the ch. 
Work 27, rows of h d c for one section, widening i st 
in each row by working a stitch in the base of the 3 ch 
at the beginning of each row. Take up the sts at 
the back. Make six of the sections and join by 
chaining 6, fasten by single crochet to the corner 
of a section, ch 6, fasten in second section, and 
continue the ch 6 back and forth until the sections 
are joined. Fasten wool at the front corner of the 
yoke at lower edge, ch 3, skip 2 sts, in the next st 
work a shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, and repeat the 
shells in every 3(1 st across the front section. On 
the shoulder sections work a shell in every alternate 
st and in the back sections in every 3d st. For the 
next row ch 3, turn, and work a shell in a shell 
across the yoke. Repeat this row until the cape is 
2/ rows deep. If the neck seems large, work a 
row of s c quite tight to draw it in. Work a row of 
treble crochet with 2 ch between, all around the 
cape through which to run the ribbon. 

For the border, begin at the lower corner and 
work a row of shells of 6 t c each and fasten by 
s c between, across the bottom. Work another row 
of shells, placing a shell in the middle of the shell 
beneath, and d c in each s c between the shells. 
The ne.xt row is of shells, each having 8 t c and s c 
lietwcen, and is worked all around the cape. Finish 
the edge with chains of 3 fastened into every stitch 
of the last shell row. Run the ribbon through the 
open spaces of the yoke, ending each strip with a 
loop and end. Also run the ribbon through the 
spaces around the cape, and through the neck 
spaces, leaving the ends long enough to tie. 



le 



Shawl 



Materials. — Fourteen or fifteen skeins of Shetland floss for a 
shawl I'j yards square. Mcdiinn-sizetl bone crochet-hook. 

1st ro7i.' — One short ch st, * i long ch st made 
bv drawings out the st on the hook untd it is about 




Detail of Sh.wvi, 

1-2 inch long before drawing the wool through 
it. I .short ch st, s c back into the short ch st at be- 
ginning. * Repeat from * to * twice more; then 
1 long ch St. I d c into same st with the 3 s c. Make 
this d c rather loosely, so that it will equal in 
length the long" ch st. These four ])oints are the 
beginning of the four corners of the shawl. 

2ii ro7i< — One long ch st, d c of eiiual length 
back into the to;) of the d c made at end of first 
row. It is important that the hook be inserted 
in e.xacth' the same place each time at this corner 
of the work, so that the corner where each row 
is commenced will look as nearly like the others 
as possible. Insert it straight through the st at 
top of d c with two threads 111 front of the hook. * 
Now make i d c forward into top of ne.xt point. 
At these points l)e careful to have the hook placed 
under the two iipf^cr threads nf the sliort eh st. 
that is, the two that come IhroiKjli the long ch st 
leaving the one that was drawn through in work- 
ing the short ch st. bclmc the hook. This keeps 
the loug ch sts at corners turneil ll.'it throiighdut 
the work, making them look more nearly like the 
other part of the work than thev would do if the 
hook were inserted straight through the short st 
from front to back, instead of under it as described. 

After working d c work i long ch st, s c in same 
st with d c. Now widen at corner by working I 
long ch St. I short ch st, i long ch st. s c in same 
st with last s c ; I long ch st. d c l.iack into st with 
s c, * repeat from * to * twice more ; d c forward 
into last corner, inserting hook in same place 
where it was inserted in making the first d c of 
this row. I long eh st. d c in same place. 

3(y ro'a' — .Same as 2d. making two points be- 
tween the corners instead of one as in 2d row. 
and widening at each corner same as in last row. 

Be careful to tiiake the long ch sts and d c of 



equal length. Each row is now made in same 
way, increasing one point on each side between the 
corners. There will be one point between corners 
of 2d row. 2 points in 3d row. 3 in 4th row- and so 
on. 

DoRiiER. — When shawd is as large as desired, 
make border as follows : 

\st rozv — Three ch, s c in centre of point, 3 ch, 
s c in next point, repeat. 

2d rozv — Two d c made bv working off first until 




there are two threads left on honk, then work the 
other d c, working off 2 threads at a time until all 
are worked off. This closes the 2 d c into I st at 
top; I ch, 2 d c worked as before, knot stitch made 
by drawing out the stitch on hook nearly 1-2 
inch in length, then working a s c between the st 



17 



and the wool just drawn througli it, repeat, work- 
ing a shell in each s c, and working 3 clusters of 
d c in shells on corners. Work 5 rows of shells, 
widening- sutificiently at corners. 

For shells on edge work 6 long, loose d c with 
1 ch between each, ch i, s c in next shell, ch I, re- 
peat in next shell and around shawl, working scal- 
lop in every alternate shell. 

For edge — Chain 2 loosely, s c under first i ch 
of scallop, ch 2, s c in next i ch, repeat. After last 




Corner of Shawl in Staple Crochet and K\ot Stitch 

s c, which should be under the ch just before the 
s c in shell between scallops, s c under next I ch 
before beginning loops around next scallop. 



piece of staple work, put hook through first 5 loops, 
fasten with s c, single k s, fasten in next k s, in' 
row with s c, single k s, take next 5 loops in lace, 
fasten with s c, repeat across strip. All the pieces of 
lace are crocheted together the same way and at the 
ends should there be a loop too many or not quite 
enough take up more or not so many, as the case 
may be; it will not be noticed when finished and 
saves counting. 

The border requires two strips of lace long enough 
to go twice around the shawl 
and is made as follows: 
Crochet four rows of k s all 
around shawl, taking up 5 loops 
on the lace and keeping as 
near as you can to the same 
distance between stitches 
across the ends of the first row 
around, always widening at 
the corners (so that the work 
will be kept flat and not draw) 
by adding more k s and taking 
from 6 to 8 loops in the lace. 

jZ/j rozv in border. — Work 
a single k s, fasten to lace by 
taking up 3 loops, fasten with 
s c, * single k s, fasten in bor- 
der, k s with s c, single k s, 
take 3 loops, fasten with s c * 
repeat around widening at cor- 
ner. 

6th rotv. — Fasten wool in 5 
loops on border, work single 
k s, fasten with s c in 3 loops of 
lace, work single k s, take 5 
loops in border, single k s, 5 
loops in lace : repeat around 
border. 

jtli roii.'. — One row k s all 
around. 

8tli ro'cv. — One s c in k s be- 
tween loops, work a shell 
s, between next two loops consisting of 
long tr with 3 ch between each tr fastened 
st to form a pi cot. Repeat around border. 



in k 

seven 
in tr 



Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch 

Materials. — Four skeins Shetland floss: wire staple 7 inches 
long, I % inches wide, which can be made from the bail of 
a lard pail; crochet-hook. 

Make 9 pieces of staple lace, each i yard long. 

1st roiv. — Take i strip, fasten wool in first 3 loops, 
* work a group of knot stitch (k s), fasten with s c in 
next 5 loops, * repeat across row. 

2d row. — Turn, work a row of k s across strip. 

jd row. — Turn, same as 2d row. 

4th row.- — Same as 2d row. 

^th rozv. — Turn, work a single k s, take a second 



making shells to 
work ends neatlv 



come between loops. Join lace- 
with needle and wool. 



Ladies' Shawl 

Materials. — Twenty skeins cream-white Germantown zephyr 
for the body of shawl, 2 skeins of Saxony for the border, 
7^2 yards I -inch satin ribbon, and a medium-sized crochet- 
hook. 

Begin the shawl at the lower corner with a chain 
of 3 stitches, join with a slip stitch. In the ring 
work a shell of 5 d c, ch 4, shell of 3 d c in the first 
St of the 4 ch, fasten with s c in tlie middle of the 
shell beneath, shell of 3 d c in last st of the shell be- 



)8 



neath. Chain 2, turn and work a shell of 5 d c into 
the middle st of last shell, fasten with s c between the 
2 shells of the last row, shell of 5 d c into middle of 
next shell. This finishes the first 3 rows. Chain 4, 
turn, shell into first st of the ch. fasten intcj middle 




L.-\DIES' Sh.awl 

(if first shell with s c. shell between the first 2 shells 
of previous row, fasten into middle of shell with s c, 
^liell into last st of the last shell, for 3//J row. — 
Chain 2, turn, shell into middle of last shell of 4th 
row, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
shell, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next 
shell, fasten into last st of the last shell of 4th row. 

The remainder of the body of the shawl is a rep- 
etition of the 4th and 5th rows. It will be seen 
that there is a widening of one shell in every al- 
ternate row. In one row the shells are placed be- 



tween shells of the previous row, and the following 
row has the shells on top of shells of previous row. 
The widening is in the rows where shells come be- 
tween shells. This gives the body of the shawl 
the fluted effect. 

For the border. — Begin at the right corner of the 
top of the shawl with a ch of 6, skip 2 stitches on the 
edge, tr c (treble crochet) in the next st, ch 2, skip 
2 stitches, tr c in the next, and repeat all around the 
shawl. This makes the open spaces through which 
to run the ribbon. 

Work the openwork border cross the 2 sides. 
Begin at the left corner of the top. * Chain 6, fasten 
with s c in ch 2 beneath, repeat from * across the 
2 sides, widening at the lower corner so the work 
will be plenty full enough. Repeat this row 7 times, 
fastening chain in a chain. The gth row is same as 
the other rows except the chain has 7 stitches. This 
finishes the border for the sides. 

Begin at the right corner of the top at the outer 
corner of the openwork border, shell of (3 d c, 2 tr 
c, 3 d c), fasten with s c into next open space. 
Repeat these shells across the top of the shawl. 

Run the rilibon through the ojien spaces and place 
a bow at each corner of the shawl, as seen in the 
illustration. 

This shawl measures 2 yards across the upper 
edge and I yard deej). 



Slumber Slippers 



These slippers are crocheted with a medium-sized 
hook and fourfold (iermantown wool. To give a 
very soft kind of work. No. 7 or S hook may be used; 
but this is inclined to be too thin when washed. 
About 9 or 10 is better. About three ounces of wool 
will he needed. 

Make an easy chain ajjout i) inches long. Work 
in every stitch in single crochet. 

2d rote. — Make i chain to turn; work a single 
crochet in back loop of every stitch. Repeat this 
second row until you have a length of eighteen 
inches, no more, for an ordinary grown-up foot. 
Now, sew or crochet very softly and evenly the two 
sides of the work together; then lay the work per- 
fectly flat and double, so that there are exactly the 
same number of rows on one side of the end seam 
as there are on the other. Xow sew or crochet the 
edges very softly together so that you have a nine- 
inch deep bag. Crochet a row of single crochet 
around the top. then a round of holes, then a tiny edge 
or scallop. 

Make a good substantial chain to run through 
holes, and add tassels, or instead of chain add a rub- 
ber which fits the ankle easily, and put a ribbon bow 
in front, exactly opposite the seam at back. 

The slipper is put on the foot with the end of front 
seam up to the toes ; the other end comes under the 
heel. 



19 



Fascinator 

Materials. — Four balls of white ice wool and a medium coarse 
bone crochet-hook. 

The body of tlw fascinator is in cross treble (c t) 
stitcli. Piet;in at one edge with a chain of 150 sts. 




Fascinator 



as in tr c, insert hook in the 5th 
and take a st, over, and skipping 2 



Wool over twice 
ch from the hook 
ch take a st in the next, then work off all the sts on 
the hook two at a time ; ch 2 and make a d c, then 2 sts 
at the middle of the c t. This makes let. For the 
next c t, over twice as before, take a st at the base of 
the first c t in the same st. and finish same as the 
first. Repeat the c t across the row, ending the row 
with a t c in the last st of the ch ; ch 4. uirn, and 
make a c t o\-er each c t of the first row. Repeat the 
rows until the work is a perfect square. 

Uor the border. — Chain 4, make a ring by wrap- 
ping wool 3 times around the thumb of left hand, 
insert the hook through the loops and make tight s c, 
ch 3, s c in next c t, another ring, and repeat the 
rings around the fascinator, placing them closer at 
the corners, and join the last to the first. The next 
2 rows are of knot stitch, making a knot in each ring, 
and for the next row placing a knot in a knot. The 
next riiw is riugs. Make a * s c each side of the first 
knot, then a ring, ch 3, and repeat from * around 
the fascinator, making extra rings at the corners. 
Make the next row of knot stitch same as the second 
row, then another row of rings same as second ring 
row, then another row of knot stitch. For the next 
row,' ch 7, fasten by a s c each side of the first knot. 



ch 7, and repeat around the fascinator. For the next 
row ch 7, and fasten by s c in the middle st of the 
7 ch in last row, and repeat. For the last row, * ch 
7. s c in the middle of 7 ch, ch 5 and fasten in same 
st as the 7 ch, and repeat from *. The border has 10 
rows. When finished the fascinator measures one 
yard square. 

Ladies' Fascinatoi' in Staple Work 

Made on a three-inch staple of blue Shetland 
floss, two skeins being required. Draw wool 
through enough loops to lay in a smooth circle, 
then half as many more, it taking 105 loops in this 
design. Tie tightly and fasten ends. The 2d strip 
is joined to centre by drawing 2 loops of centre 
through 4 of strip, then through 2 of centre. Double 
a strip of five yards in the centre, draw wool 
through 40 loops and tie tightly. Join strip to- 
gether by working I ch and catching by s c into 3 
loops, first on one side, then the other. After 
working one yard together in this way, fasten wool 
and separate strips and join each to centre in oppo- 
site direction, one by 3 loops of centre to 4 of strip 
to make full for the front, the other by 3 to 3 for 
the back, joining strips together where they meet 
as before and drawing wool through 40 loops at 
end when string is even in length with first. This 
last row joining to crown should be looped through 




Lauies' Fascinator l\ Staple Work 

as in previous two rows. Around the entire edge 
crochet two rows of knot stitch as a finish. Use 
any trimming you may like. This design is finished 
with rosettes in baby ribbon and wool. 



20 



Circular Shawl 

Materials. — One iinLinii nr move, aceordiiig to size desired, of 



crcam-wliite Shetland tiu^s 
hooic. 



A medium-sized bone crocliot- 



Chaiii 4 and join in a circle. 

1st roiu — Chain 3, i d c in circle. Now work a 
knot-stitch by drawing ont tlie st tliat is on the 
hook about 1-3 inch in leng-tli. Wool over and 
draw through. Then work a s c rather closely 




Circular .Shawl 

in front of the long stitch and under the thread 
drawn through it. This completes a k st. Work a 
cluster of 2 d c in circle in this way: Wool over 
and insert hook in circle, wool over and draw 
through, making 3 sts on the hook. Wool over 
and draw through 2 sts. Now. leaving 2 sts on 
hook, wool over and again insert hook in circle, 
wool over and draw through, making 4 sts on 
hook, wool over and draw through 2 sts, wool over 
and draw through the 3 remaining sts. This com- 
pletes a cluster of 2 d c which, alternately with a 
k st is used tliroughout the work; * I k st, cluster 
of 2 d c made as before. * Repeat until there are 
8 k sts. Join Sth k st to 3d of 3 ch at lieginning of 
row. 

2d ro'a' — Chain 3, il c in top of next d c, I k st, 
cluster of 2 d c (worked as before') in same st with 
d c just made, i k st, miss k st in last row and work 
cluster of 2 <1 c in top of next cluster. When in- 
serting the hook in the top of cluster put it not only 
under the 2 threads of st directly on top. but also 
under the back thread of the st Iving directlv below. 



and which is twisted, or llattcncd. This makes 3 
threads above the hook and the hook is passed 
through the flat st. lie careful to do this through- 
out the work, as it gives the rows of d c radiating 
f re nil centre to lionler (if shawl a twisted, or cable 
appearance. Knot st, cluster of 2 d c in same place, 
* k st, 2 clusters of 2 d c separated by a k st 
in top of next cluster (made as described above).* 
Ke|ie;it from * to * around w"ork. This row 
has been widened by working the 2 clusters in 
each cluster of last row. thus douliling the number 
of clusters and k ,sts; jnin la>t k st to 3 ch as be- 
fore. 

^d row — Chain 3, d c in next d c, k st, * chister 
of 2 d c in next k st, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next 
cluster, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next cluster, k st, 
repeat from * around work, ending with a k st 
joined to 3 ch at beginning. 

4//; roiv — Beginning as in every row with 3 ch 
and d c, work k sts and clusters of 2 d c alternately, 
widening 8 times by putting 2 clusters, separated 
by a k st. in each of the 8 clusters that were worked 
in k sis in la^t row. Continue tlie work in this 
way, widening in 8 places in each row. 

/;; 20. ^Ih, 6th. and oil czen I'Oli'S the widenings 
are made Iiy putting 2 clusters of d c in one cluster 
of the last row, while in the ;},d . 5///, 7//;, and all 
odd roll's the extra chister is put in the k st that 
separates those two clusters in last row. Keep 
the widenings in a straight line. Where each row 
is commenced with 3 ch and a d c, make this part 
to resemble the clusters of d c as closely as possi- 
ble, so the rows will look alike. 

When the body of shawl is of the desired size, 
work the border as follows: C)ne il c in top of cluster 




Dl'TAIL OF CUULL.AK .Sll.XWL 



21 



of 2 d c in last row, k st, shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2 
d c. in next cluster of 2 d c in last row, k st, i 
d c in next cluster, k st, shell in next, and so on, 
alternating shells and i d c with the k sts between. 

The first three rows are worked alike. Then 
work four more in the same way except that there 
are 2 cli in centre of each shell instead of i ch. 
This widens the border slightly. 

/;; the S//i roii' work a scallop of 6 loose d c sep- 
;irat-M;l by i ch. in a shell of last row, * i ch, s c m 
top of I d c of last row. i ch, scallop in ne.xt shell, 
repeat from *. 

foi' iJw rdgc, beginning with s c under the i ch 
just before tlic s c between 2 scallops, s c under 
next I ch, ch 2 loosely, s c under first space 1)e- 
tween d c of scallop, repeat around scallop eniling 
with a s c uniler i ch just before the s c between 
scallops in last row. Now work the next s c under 
the I ch before next scallop and repeat the loops of 
2 ch around each scallop but work the 2 s c be- 
tween scallops, zvitltoiit any ch between. 

Silk Slippers with Wool Lining 

The lining of this slipper is made of four-fold 
zephvr in the ordinary s c ribbed slipper stitch and 
requires about 4 laps. Commence with a row of 
20 s c, ch 2, turn and taking up back st work 9 s c, 




Silk .Slipper with Wool Lining 

widen in mth bv ]iutting 3 s c into it, 10 s c, ch 2. 
turn and work back and forth, widen in centre 
every other mw. and taking up back st, which makes 
the ribs, unlil ynu ha\e 12 ribs; turn and work 20 
s c liack anil forth until the strip will meet around 
the sole. Join together at side and toe, and sew to 
sole liv overcasting it on the right side. 

The outside is of wheels and made of machine 
twist. Size F. and takes a one-ounce spool. Wind 
the silk around the end of an ordinary lead pencil 
10 times. Slip it off carefully and into this ring 
work 2 rows of 24 s c each. Around this work 12 
loops of 5 ch st each, skipping i s c and catching 
into next Iw s c. 

To join '.elteels. — Work one entire wheel and the 



next all but the ch st loops, ch 2, catch into loop of 
1st wheel by s c, ch 3, back into unfinished wheel 
by s c, skipping i s c, ch 2, catch into next loop of 
1st wheel, ch 2, back into unfinished wheel by s c, 
skipping s c. l^'inish wheel by working 10 loops. 
In this manner work a strip of wheels to go around 
slipper, next to sole, and join together. Work a 
wheel and join to strip by 4 loops to the 4 loops of 
any one wheel of strip, and by 2 loops to first 2 
loops of each of the wheels on either side of the 
one just joined to, which forms the centre toe. 
This makes the slipper stand up from the sole, and 
gives it a better shape. This leaves 4 free loops on 
last wheel made, also 2 free loops on wheel at either 
side. The wheels now are joined to this strip 
across the toe in rows of 2, then 3. then 4, then 5, 
in this manner. Work one wheel all but the loops 
of ch sts, join by 2 loops to 2 loops of 2d wheel 
from centre wheel of strip, to 2 free loops of wheel 
next to centre, and to 2 loops of the 4 loops of 
centre wheel, finish wheel by working 6 free loops. 
Join another wheel in like manner, by 2 loops to 
this last wheel made, 2 loops to 2 free loops of cen- 
tre wheel, 2 loops to ist wheel from centre, and 2 
to first 2 loops of 2d wheel from centre, finish by 
working 6 free loops. Next join the 3 wheels in 
same manner, then 4 and then 5. This completes 
the toe. The strip around the back is 3 wheels 
deep, counting the row already made. In making 
the other rows join wheels as you work them by 2 
loops to each other and 4 to the bottom strip, so 
(bat the wheels will rest over the joining of wheels 
below, which is done by catching into 2 last loops 
of the one wheel and the two first of the next. 

Finish the top with an hour-glass design to run 
the ribljon through as follows: Tie wool in 2d loop 
of wheel, ch 6. d c in ne.xt loop, ch 3, wool over 
the hook 3 times, catch into last loop of wheel and 
draw wool through, wool over, draw through 2 sts, 
wool over, draw through 2 more, wool over twice, 
catch into ist loop of next wheel, wool over, draw 
through 2 sts at a time till all are off. ch 3, wool 
over, catch in st at centre where all parts seem to 
join, work d c. ch 3. d c in 2d loop and repeat. 
This same edge is worked around the bottom to 
sew on by, only wool is thrown over the hook but 
twice at beginning of hour-glass, and is caught in 
loops bv s c instead of d c. 

The frill is just a full ruffle of ch sts. 5 long- 
drawn-out ch being in each loop, and 3 loops put 
into each opening. The 2d row is the same, chain 
5 and catch into the top of loops of preceding 
row by s c ; a silk edge is then worked around in 
same manner with same nunilicr of sts. The frill 
and row for ribbon is made of two-fold zephyr and 
one lap is required. Run in No. 2 satin ribbon of the 
same shade as the wool lining. Fasten with a bow. 



22 



Scarf 



Material required, about lo skeins Slietland flos' 
sized bone crochet-hook. 



and a nttdium- 

for width I if 



Make a chain of length desircil 
scarf. 

1st rozv. — Two d c in 3d st from hook. Shell of 
3 d c in every 3d st of chain, I d c at end to keep the 
edge straight, ch 3, turn. 



r 




■4 








Scarf 

sd roti.' is the familiar star stitch. ^\'ork ist 
star as follows: insert the hook in ist one of 3 
ch (the one next the work), draw wool through 
rather looselv and keeping it on the hook, insei't 
hook in hack loop of stitch at top of d c on edge, 
draw wool through loosely as he fore and repeat 
in each d c of shell, taking up back loop each time. 
There will be 6 loops on the hook. Wool over and 
draw through all, then make a tight ch st which 



closes star. To make next star, take up first loop 
under one thread just below the "eye" of last star, 
second one in loop just below this one (where last 
loop of the other star was made), and the other three 
across the top of shell as before. Finish this star 
by closing with a tight ch st as before. The loops 
should be drawn out to eipial lengths and loosely 
made. After closing star with ch st, draw the st out 
rather loosely on hook before taking up loops for 
next star or the work will draw. Work a d c at 
end of row as before, ch 3, turn. 

2d rozu. — Shell of 3 d c in each star, putting it in 
eye of star, d c at end. 

^fli row. — Star stitch. 

^Ili row. — Shells, and so on, alternating these two 
rows until of re<|uired length, keeping edges straight 
with d c and 3 ch at ends. 



B 


g^.' ' 


i^^^ 




^^<: 


.■■ ■ i 


P^ 


■k- 


A.-^ i.^ • 


^ ■ 


' 1- " 




1 *■ 


t 




i < 


■ - ~ i." 


" J 
k K 


f±. 


\ 





Detail of Scakf 

To iiiaki' scalloped cili/os. — rieginning with a s c 
at L-Ui]. ch J, J d c back into same st with s c, s c 
on edge of scarf just far enough from the first s c 
to make the small pointed scallop lie flat, ch 2, 2 d c 
back into same st with last s c. fasten down on edge 
with s c as before, repeat to end. 

To finish ends of scarf. — t'hain 2, s c in first space 
between shells, ch 2, s c in next space, repeat. This 
makes a foundation for fringe. 

Foi' heading of fringe. — Make 2 d c in each space 
across ends, working them as follows: Work off the 
first d c until there are 2 stitches left on hook, then 
instead of finishing in the usual manner, wool over 
and work another d c in same place, working off 2 
threads at a time until .-dl are worked off. This 
closes the 2 d c into i st at top, 2 ch, 2 d c in 
next space, repeat. 

For fringe. — Wrap .Shetland floss around a card 
of suitable size six times, cut and with the ends 
held evenly together, draw loop through space on 
end of scarf, then draw ends through loop and pull 
down close. 



23 



Golf Vest 

Materials. — Two hanks of Scotch wool, i roll uf hraid for 
binding, ^ of a yard of silk for facing the fronts, lo 
small brass buttons, 2 balls of crochet silk for working, 
and '4 of a yard of broad crinkle-edge elastic, 1 long crochet- 
hook about the size of a No. 13 bone knitting-needle, i 
spool of twibt. 

Make a ch of 35 sts, turn, and putting the hook 
into the 2d st, put wool over and draw it througli 
the St. Keeping the st on the hook, continue to 




back edges i st every other rib seven times, or 14 
ribs. Make a ch of 12 sts on the back edge and 
take up 10 sts as at the beginning of the work. 
This gives the under-arm extension. Widen every 
rib on the front edge for 18 ribs, crocheting straight 
on the back. Work one rib without widening. Then, 
on the edge of the right side of the vest, after 
crocheting the first 2 sts, make a ch of 2 sts be- 
tween the 2d and 3d sts to make a little opening 
for the buttonhole. Narrow on the front edge I st 
every 3d rib, and make ch for the buttonhole after 
every 6th rib. Do this for 22 ribs. Now bind off 
21 sts from the under-arm seam, and beginning to 
crochet from the 22d st narrow i on the front every 
3d rib, crochet back to within I st of the back edge 
every rib. Do this for 6 ribs, remembering to make 
the buttonhole where it should come in reference 
to the others. Bind off. This completes the front. 
Take up stitches on the opposite shoulder and 
crochet the other front to correspond. Sew up the 
vest at the under-arm seams. To work the stars 
use knitting silk. On colored or white vest two 
cross-stitches of black and two of yellow make a 
pretty combination. Under the buttonholes place 
a narrow stay of muslin. Underface the fronts 
with bias silk or satin. W'ork the buttonholes with 
twist. It is well before binding the fronts and 
armholes to overcast the edges with the wool, to pre- 
vent stretching in binding. It is also well to hold the 
edges rather full in binding and to note the meas- 
urements given below. Underface the lower edge 
of the back with a flat elastic band. Finish with 
two rows of small buttons. 

Neck measure, 31 inches; armhole, 17 inches; 
length of front, 7 inches. 



the end of the ch until there are 34 sts on the hook. 
Now put the wool ov^er and draw back through 
one St. Put wool over and draw back through the 
st just formed and the one next on the hook. Con- 
tinue to the end of the row. This makes the regu- 
lar afghan-stitch with which most persons are 
familiar. It will be seen that to make one complete 
rib requires crocheting twice across, so, to simplifv 
the directions, we will speak of narrowing and wid- 
ening by ribs rather than rows. 

Having started with 34 sts on the hook and 
crocheting twice across to form one rib, now widen 
every second rib at each end for four times. This 
gives 8 ribs. Work 22 ribs without widening. Now 
widen i st at both ends of rib every ^d rib for four 
times. Crochet 2'; ribs straight. 

This brings the work to the shoulder. 

Take one-third of the stitches for one shoulder, 
bind off one-third for the neck, and crochet on the 
next third for the other shoulder. Crochet 8 ribs 
straight, then widen on the front edge every 3d 
rib I st for five times. Now widen both front and 



Lady's Kimono 



Materials. — Ten skeins of white and j of black Saxony, 4j^ 
yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a niL-dium-sized bone hook. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 107 stitches. 
Beginning in the 2d st from the hook, make a single 
crochet in each st of the ch. For the next row ch 
I, turn, and make a s c in each s c of the 1st row, 
taking the st through both sts beneath. For the 3d 
row, ch 2, turn, and make a puff in each s c of 2d 
row. To make the puff, thread over as for d c. take 
a st through the s c, thread over, take another st in 
the same filace, thread over and take another st 
in the same place, llien draw thread through all 
the sts on the hook and fasten by a s c. For the 
next niw, ch i, turn, make a s c between each 2 
puff's, and to widen make 2 s c in every loth space. 
The next row is the same as the 2d. The body of 
the kimono is a repetition of the row of puffs and 
the 2 rows of s c alternating, and widening in the 



24 



first of the 2 rows of s c. same as in tlic 4th row. 
Work until there are 18 rows of puffs. For the ist 
row of the horder, ch 4. make a puff hetween the 2i\ 
and 3d puffs, ch 1. putt in the space« hetween the 
4th and 5th puffs, and finish the row, skipping 2 puffs 
after each i ch. Break tlie thread. Begin with the 
black at the same corner as the previous row, ch 4, 
puff in each space beneath, break the thread. iMake 
another row of white, one of black, and another 
of white same as the last row. The last 3 rows ex- 
tend across the bottom of the kimono. 

The outer border is made separate and sewed 
on, all around tlie kinicjuo. It is made thus; L'liain 
T2 sts. Make 2 A c in the 5th from the hook, ch i, 
2 d c in tlie same place, ch 3, skip 3 sts. fasten in 
the next by s c, skip 2 ch. 2 d c in the next, ch 1,2 
d c in the same place, ch 3, turn, 2 d c between the 
two groups of d c, ch 3, fasten in top of next d c by 
s c; then shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2 d c in the ch i, ch i, 



5 puffs in the ch 5 with i ch lietween, ch 1, fasten 
in the lo]i nf the last d c of the previous row, ch i, 
turn. * s c in the first I ch, I (.1 c anil I s c in the 
same place. Repeat from * in each l ch between the 
pulfs. This finishes one scallop. Repeat from the 
first row until the l)order is Ion;; emiugh to extend 
around the kimono, holding it full at the four cor- 
ners. Edge the border with the black by making 
chains of 4 sts and fastening by s c in the middle 
and between the shells. Make a rciw of holes at the 
neck through which to run the ribbon liy making d c 
with 2 ch between in every 3d st. Sew the border 
on neatly with the white yarn, making full enougli 
at the corners. Fasten imder the arms to form the 
sleeves, and make bows of the rilibon at the fasten- 
ings and larger bow on the top of the sleeve. Run 
the ribbon through the neck for the ties. This ki- 
mono measures one-half yard from the neck to the 
lower edge. 




Ladv's Rreakk.-^st Kimono 



PRISCILLA BOOKS 



\^'e can furnish the following Books at the prices named: 
cents. 



The Priscilla Cross-Stitch Book. Price 

How to Make Baskets. I'rice, 25 cents. 

Hardanger Work. My Anna M. Porter. Price, 25 cts 

The Priscilla Manual. Price, 75 cents. 

How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace. Price, 25 ct 



Mexican Drawn Work. Price, 23 cents. 
The Priscilla Crochet Book, 1903. Price, 25 Cents. 
The Priscilla Knitting Book, 1903. Price. 25 cents. 
The Priscilla China Painting Book. Price, 15 cents. 
French, Eyelet, and Shadow Embroidery. Price, 25 cts. 



25 






Articles for Babies and Children 



1 



Brownie Hood 

Matkri,\ls. — Four skeins ^vliitc four-fold zepliyr, and I of pink. 
Rilil)on for ties, and 10 yards baby ribbon for rosettes and to run 
in rows of double crochet. 

A hood made by these directions will fit a child 
from 6 to 10 years old according to size of head. 

Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn, 
and taking up back st of star work row of d c. 
Continue until you have 6 rows of alternate stars 
and d c. 




Dkou'N'ie Hood 



yth row — Twenty-seven stars, widen i, i star. 

8//; rozv — Double crochet without widening. 

gth row — Stars without widening. 

10//; row — Double crochet without widening. 

nth row — Twenty-eight stars, widen i. i star. 

J2th row — Double crochet without widening. 

13//; row — Widen at beginning I star, 29 stars, 
widen I, I star. 

14/// rozi' — Doulilc crochet without widening. 

13//; row — Stars, widening at the beginning and 
before making last star. 

16//! row — Double crochet witliout widening. 



i/th rozi' — Stars; work to end of row, leaving 
off last 3 stars. Break wool. 

18//; rozv — Leave off 3 stars, tie in wool, and 
make d c to end of row. 

19//J rozc — Widen at beginning. Leave off 3 stars 
(or ratlier their equivalent — 6 d c). 

201I1 row — Leave off 4 stars, and d c to end of 
row. 

2 IS/ row — Sixteen stars. 

22d rozt' — Skip 8 stars and d c over remaining 8. 

231/ rozt' — Widen I star and make 3 stars. 

This is for one side and the edge at starting point 
is the top edge; the other side is worked the same 
only reversing terms, the edge where rows are 
ended being the top edge, thus; 

Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn 
and work row of d c. W ork 6 rows as above. 

Jill roz^' — One star, widen i, 27 stars. 

8//; rozi' — Double crochet without widening. 

gth rozv — Stars without widening. 

lo'/j rozv — Double crochet without widening. 

11//1 rozv — One star, widen i, 28 stars. 

I2tli rozv — Double crochet without widening. 

13//; rozv — One star, widen i, 29 stars; widen at 
end of row. 

14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening. 

15/A rozv — One star, widen i, work tcj end of row, 
widen I. 

16th rozv — Dnulile crochet without widening. 

lylh rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
ch 3, turn. 

iStli rozv — ^^'ork d c to end of row, leaving off 
3 stars. Break wool. 

19//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row, 
widening r. 

20?/! rozv — Double crochet to end of row, leav- 
ing off 4 stars. 

21st rozv — Sixteen stars, lea\ing off 6. 

22d rozv — Doulile crochet over S stars, leaving 8 
at end. 

27,d rozv — Three stars, leaving off 5 and widening 
at end. 

Whip top edges of hooil together and stitch up 
back. 

The rever is made as follows: Chain 91, on 
which work 44 stars, ch 3, turn. 

2(/ rozv — Doulile crochet. T,d rozv — Stars. 4th 
niTL'— Double crochet. 3//; mt.'— Stars. Around 
one side and both ends of this stri]i, and around the 
outside edge of entire hood, crochet a frill made 
in three rows thus: 



1st ro'a' — Pink shells made by working 2 d c, ch 
2, 2 d c in the same stitch, skipping 2 stars between 
shells and working 1 ch lietween. 

2(1 roxv — Of the cream wdul. I'"ive d c in shell 
with I ch between each, and catch down between 
by s c. 

3(/ ro'w — With the pink wool. Chain 3. catch 
by s c between each d c in top of shell, and by s c 
without chain between each shell. 

Run baby ribbon thrimgh rows of d c in both 
hood and rever, and hnish with rosettes of the 
same ribbon. 

Baby's Carriage Afghan 

Materials. — Fifteen .'^kcins of creain-wliite (lerniantnwn, t '^ 
yards of wliitc eiderdown, 5 yards narruw riM»ini. and a 
medium-sized bone hook. 

The Iiody of the afgluin is formed of 5 stripes 
going lengthwise, but all joined in the making. 
Three of the stri])es are made of vlar stitch and 
d c. and 2 rows are of popcorn stitch. 

\\in-k a ch afiout i 1-4 yards long. On the ch 
work 175 d c fur the first row. Skip a st of ch 




B.ir.Y's C.\RRHGE Afgh.\-\ 

about every 6th d c to keep the edge from drawing. 
Turn and work a row of stars. Place a star over 
every 2 d c. Turn and work a row of d c into the 
stars, working 2 d c over each star, i d c in the 
eye of star and i d c in stitch between the eyes. 
Alternate these 2 rows until there are 6 rows of 
stars and 7 rows of d c This forms the first stripe. 
To make the popcorn stripe, work a s c over each of 
the first 2 d c, * ch 4, s c in each of next 3 d c, and 



repeat from * to end of the row. Take the s c 
through both the back and front st beneath. Turn 
and work the ne.xt row of s c. dropping out the ch 
4 wdiich forms the raised appearance. Alternate 
these 2 rows initil there are 11 rows with the raised 
parts and end with a row of d c. This finishes the 
popcorn stripe. Work another stripe like the first 
one, then another popcorn stripe, then another like 
the first, as seen in the illustration. 

Work a row of d c with ch 2 lietween all around 
the afghan through which to run the ribbnn. The 
border consists of 4 rows. 

l,j^ rocf — Shell of 2 d c, eh 2, 2 d c in every al- 
ternate ch 2 of previous row. 

2d riTic — .'^hell of 3 d c, ch 2, 3 d c in every shell 
of previous row. 

^d rnw — Same as 2d row. For the last row, ch 
3, s c in ch 2 of the shell, ch 5 and s c in same place, 
eh 6 and s c in same place, ch 3 and s c in same 
place — this forms 3 |)icots in the ch 2; cli 3, s c 
between the shells, ch 3 and s c in the ch 2 of next 
shell. Repeat to end of the row. 

Cut the eiderdown to fit the afghan, letting the 
edges come, to the row for the riblion. With the 
wool work a row of d c with 2 ch between all 
ariiuiid the lining, catching the d c into the edge of 
the eiderdown. IMace the afghan and lining with 
the wrong sides together. Pace the rihlion through 
the lining and outside, thus fastening them together 
In this way they can easily be taken apart to be 
cleansed. This afghan is all white, but if a color 
is desired it looks very pretty to work the plain 
niws in the ]iopcorn stripe either of pink or blue and 
then work the last row of the border of the same 
color. 

Baby's Bib 

Materials. — Dark cre.ini silk, niodiuni sleid ororliet-liook. 

Work 60 loose ch. 

]st riire — (Jne d c in third ch, i d c in following 
ch. 




B.^BV'S ISUi 



27 



2d roiv — Single crochet across, taking up back 
of St to make ridge. Skip i st in centre of every 
other row in the entire bib. Work i st less at the 
beginning of each of the first l6 rows, or one for 
each of 8 ridges. Then increase I at the beginning 
of next 8 rows or 4 ridges, then I at beginning and 
end of each remaining rows, or 2 for each ridge. 
There should be 52 sts in last row. Press with hot 
iron. Chain 74 and fasten to lower end of bib 
for annhole. 

1st row — Chain 5 * i d c in second ch, i ch * i d 
c in second cli. repeat across chain and end of bib; 
join to first 5 ch. 

2d rozv — Chain 4, shell of 3 roll st — silk over 
12 times in first d c of last row, i d c in next d c, 
shell in next d c, repeat all around, clip silk; 
make the other arm piece the same way. 

Finish the top of bib same as arm. working d c 
on wrong side of work and roll st always on right 
side ; finish the bottom the same also, then work 
the extra rows like this: 3 ch on wrong side, i 
s c between first 2 roll sts of shell, 3 ch, i s c be- 
tween next 2 roll sts, 4 ch, I s c between first 2 
roll sts of next shell ; repeat. 

Lasl row — Shell of 4 roll sts in loop on top of 
shell, shell of 4 roll sts on next shell ; repeat across. 
Finish with 3 ch, i d c. 3 ch, i d c. all around bib 
and armhole. 

Tie the sleeve pieces together in back with cream 
taffeta or satin ribbon about 1-2 inch wide. 

Infant's Band 

M.\TF.RiALS. — Two skeins of two-fold white Sa.xony and a fine 
bone crochet-hook. 

Begin at the end with a chain of 42 stitches worked 
loosely. 

Turn and work a s c in each chain stitch. * Turn, 
ch I, and work s c in each s c of the first row, taking 
up the back loops of the stitches. Turn, ch i, s c in 
each s c, taking stitch thrciugh both front and back 




.nfant's Band 



stitches beneath. Repeat from the * alternatin 
2 rows until 27 ridges are made. 

In next row, work 7,2 s c, leaving 10 at the en 



the 



were skipped. In the next ridge take up 2 of the 
skipped ones, in next ridge 3, and in the next 2, 
thus making same number of stitches as in begin- 
ning. This forms a small dart at the lower edge. 
Work four ridges plain. 

To form the next dart, work to within 2 s c of the 
lower edge and back, then to within 3 of end of pre- 
vious ridge, then to within 2 of end, then to within 3, 
thus dropping 10 s c, same as in the first dart. In the 
ne.xt ridge work to the lower edge, taking up 42 s c. 
Work 27 ridges to correspond with the first side. 

Finish the band with a scallop of ( i ch, 4 d c, I ch) 
fastened by s c. 

This band measures 6 inches in width and 20 in 
length. Use a soft quality of Sa.xony so it will not 
irritate, and a fine hook to make the work rather 
firm. 

Baby's Bootees 

Materials. — Two-fold Saxony or zephyr ; i skein of the former 
or 2 of the latter. Silk for edge and ribbon for ties. 

The features of this bootee are its toe and heel. 
Commence at toe with chain 19, using first three 
stitches to start the star, around which work 8 
stars, widen (w) I star, 8 stars, w 1; fasten by 
slip stitch in top of 1st star. Chain 3 to start 
star of next row, 8 stars, w I, I star, w I, 8 stars, 




Turn and work back. 



In ne.xt row, make 32 s c and 2 s c of the 10 which 



Baby's Bootee 

vv I. 1 star, w I, catch as before by si st in top of 
ist star. Chain 3. w^ i star at each end of next 
2 rows, after which work 7 rows without widen- 
ing; fasten and clip wool. Skip the ist 9 stars 
and tie wool in eye of next star, ch 3, 17 stars, clip 
wool. This leaves the 9 stars. Tie woo! at begin- 
ning, ch 3 and repeat as before until you have 6 



28 



rows of 17 stars each: then work 4 rows of 7 stars 
each, which forms the hceh Sew heel together across 
bottom and np siile. This forms the foot of liootee. 

Crochet a row of double knot stitch of the silk 
to run ribl)on through. There should be 25 or 20 
groups. 

.\fter the row of knot st clip silk ami tie wool 
in top of first loop anil work 3 cb. Draw wool 
through each of J ch st. making 3 cb sts on hook; 
then tor 4tb and 3tb sts of star ilraw wool through 
long chain of loop on either side of centre short 
chain. 

2d rozi.' — Widen one star at centre back. 

3^ row — Plain. 

4//( row — Knot stitch 

c;//( i-(i7c — Star stitch. Alternate knot stitch and 
star stitch until you have three clusters of same, 
widening one star in ceiUre back every row of 
stars; then two rows of knot stitch and two of star 
stitch. The sock is finisiied with a shell edge of 
wool and a final edge of chain stitch of the silk. 



Baby's Bonnet 



Materials. — One small skein of white (^ermantown. ':i yard 
wliite China silk, white swan"s-down of suftieient length tu 
go around hooil. ^4 yard white riljljon atxnit 1 ineli wide, 
and very line lumc crochet himk. 

Chain 4, join, drawing up firmly to prevent open 
centre. Within this work 8 stars, thus: Chain 2. 
wool over, draw up loop from centre in stitch at 
base of chain just made, draw up a loo[) from hole 
in centre, wool over and draw through all, cb i. In- 
sert hook in eye of star just formed li\' cb and draw 
u|) a loo[), I loop in back of last star, i loop in centre 
(4 on hook), wool over and draw through all, cb 
I and so on until there are S stars. Join bist star 
to first by a slip-stitch into the top hori/ontal stitch 
of first star. Chain 2, i loop in ist cb, i loop in 
top horizontal stitch of star underneath, wool o\er, 
draw through all, ch i^ i loop in eye just formed, 
I in back of star just made, I in place where last 
stitch (loop) of last star was taken, and 1 in nc.\t 
eve, wDiii o\er. ch i. Continue thus. If the work 
begins to get too full, skip an eye or bar as may he 
necessary to keep work flat. Work 4 rows of stars. 
If a larger hood is desired, go around once or 
twice more. This size is for a lirst hood. 

Tin- Front. — Which is worked liack and forth. — 
See diagram. Chain. On this wurk iq stars thus: 
Wool over, pick up loops in 2 clKiins. wool over, draw 
through, ch i, i loop in eye just formed. 1 in back of 
star just formed, i in ch where last loop of last star 
and I in ne.\t ch, (if cb is not verv loose it is 
belter to skip one ch or the foundation will be apt 
to draw in), wool over, draw thnnigb all. cb I. 
ITa\-e K) stars. Chain 4. 'urn. In b'-ginning jd 
row. work one star extra out on this chain, thus: 



Wool o\'er, draw up loops in Iwii chains farthest 
from hook, wool over, through all, chain I, loop in 
eye of star just made, loop in back of same star, I 
in same space as last of preceding star, and one 
in next iKjrizontal (skip the eye), 4 on hook, wool 
over, draw through, cb 1, continue. Keep front of 




19 5ta.rs 
a,3 Stars- 

i95tarsacross 

i3 Stirs- 
19 Stars 



IJi.igrani ot Baby's 
Bonnet 



Baby's 1!on'NKT. (See Diagram) 

hood straight; widen on back in same way until 
there are 23 stars. liy being careful to catch up 
the loop on the edge i star can be niade extra each 
row; 19 stars in ist row, 20 in iie.\t, 21 in next, and 
so on to 2^. Then narrow each row in back till 19 
is reached. Narrow bv dropping iilT one star each 
row at back edge, working star o\'cr 2d star froin 
edge. This makes g rows. Then work across, 
Ijack and forth with 19 stars until you have about 
22 rows of stars, counting from foundation cham. 
This forms one-half of bonnet. Continue working 
until you have 22 rows of 19 stars. Widen at 
b:ick edge one star each row until there are 23 
stars, then narrow one each row until there are 
only 11). Sew up the back :ind full in to crown. 
Line with silk and finish with swan's-down and 
ribbon. Tbi-re are 3S rows in :ill in front of bonnet. 



Baby's Cap 



This beautiful little cap is for a two-year-old 
child. The fan-like designs are made in rows and 
then crocheted together at the picots. ( >u top of the 
bead the first two rows divide so that the fans fall 
down on the sides. The ist row has 7 fans on each 
side: the 2d row has 6 fans, ( )u top where the fans 
diviile, in the 2il row, are joined :i row of 7 fans 
which run down over the middle of head but not 
(|uite to the neck: the hist of the se\en should be 
somewhat smaller to ni.ake a nicer shape. To fill 



29 



ill tlie sides of the cap, the y\ row has 2 fans dividing 
with 3 more running downward to make it even with 
2d row ; the 4th row has the ist fan standing side wise 
joincii to the two dividing ones in the 3d row, this 




Bahy's Cap 

is to shape the back; to tliis are added 3 fans which 
are to be even with the 2(1 and 3d rows. On the 
bottom join a row of 4 fans, beginning from the 2d 
row and going Ijack to nape of neck. The joining is 
all done by two chains and doubles in the picots from 
one row to the other. Detailed instructions would 
be too confusing for making the joinings, but a little 
ingenuity and fitting on a child's head will be of 
great assistance. 

Use mercerized cotton or crochet silk, and start 
with the fan in the centre of the ring. Chain 7, and 
in the 1st ch work 6 roll stitches, over 15 times. 

Detail of roU-stitch. — Wind the thread 15 times 
over the hook, bring up loop through 1st ch. thread 
over the hook and draw through the coil on the hook, 
thread over hook and draw through the one loop 
on the hook. Repeat this for each stitch until you 
have six. Chain 6 and fasten down into the ist ch 
also; this makes a shell or fan. To wind a heavy 
ring around this fan, lav the fan with the hook in 
its loop on the forefinger of left hand, hold it down 
with the thumb, and with the thread wind 10 times 
over three fingers. Take the hook out of the loop 
and put it in again from the opposite direction, 
slip off the ring carefully, and with the hook pass 
over into the eye of the fan (the eye is where the 
roll sts were worked in), and now work 3 s c into the 
eye of the fan and over the ring at the same time 
to fasten the windovers. Next work up the side 
on ring with 12 s c, now a tr under the ch of fan 
(do the tr from the back) now a p of 5 ch, fasten 



the p on top of tr, 5 s c under the ring (a tr on 
fan, a p of 5 ch), repeat until there are 9 tr and 9 
p. Between the first and last two rolls make 2 tr 
and one between the others; finish with 12 s c. 

If they are the same size as the design this fills 
the ring. They need not necessarily be the same 
size, so long as you make an odd number of p. At 
the end of 12 s c fasten down with a si st, and 
without cutting thread the next fan in the row can 
be made. Chain 10 and fasten around the centre tr 
on the wrong side, 7 more and fasten on the centre 
p, which p is now the foundation from which the 
next fan is made, using the hole in the picot for 
putting in the roll sts. Where the fans are to divide 
tlie fan is made exactly opposite. 

If desired a China silk lining can be made for the 
cap. It is trimmed with big chii'fon rosettes where 
the ties are fastened. 

Baby's Cap. Daisj^ Design 

Chain 8, join to form ring. 

1st niiiiid. — Chain I, s c into ring 24 times; join 
into 1st s c. 

2d round. — Chain 5 : roll stitch into each stitch of 
preceding round. Make rolls by throwing thread 
over needle 20 times, fasten in s c of 1st round, and 
drawing off all at once; ch i. 




Babv's Cai'. Daisy Uesig.n' 

j?(/ round. — Chain 5. Cover this chain with 12 s c, 
and fasten into ist space of preceding round; s c 
into next space between rolls, ch 5, fasten to cov- 
ered ch, turn and fill ch. Repeat around cap. 

4tlt round. — Chain 3. fasten between 2 eyelets of 
3d round with 1 c, ch 3, fasten in top of 1 c, ch 3, 
fasten in same place, ch 3, fasten in same place, 



30 



ch 3, fasten in top of next eyelet. This makes clover 
leaf. Work them all around cap. 

ji//( round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of leaf, ch 5, 
fasten in top of next leaf. etc. 

OUi louiid. — Work 3 rolls of jo stitches on ch he- 
tween each leaf around cap. 

~tlt round. — Another round of leaves, fastening 
1 let ween each roll. 

8th round. — Repeat 5th round. 

Qth round. — Twenty daisies, made separately, 
sewed together, and then sewed around ca]). Keep 
work tight enough to shape cap. 

lollt round. — Fasten on side of dai.sy, ch 3, skip 2 
rolls and fasten in same daisy, ch 5, fasten on side 
of next dai.sy, ch 3, skip j mils, fasten in same daisy 
again. 

Repeat around cap. 

////; round. — Clover leaves all around cap, 2 to 
each daisy, l in each place where ch is j(.Mned to 
<laisy. 

/_>//( round. — Repeat 3th round. This completes 
crown. 

/ ,V/i roii'. — Seventeen daisies, i to every 2 clover 
leaves, except i)th which has 3 clover leaves. 

Leave off S clover leaves to form Ii.ick. 

14th rote. — Repeat 5th round, 7 st to each chain, 
fastening in top of each daisy. 

l^th row. — Clover leaves across front, r to each 
daisy. 

i6th coTi'. — Repeat 5th round. 6 st to each ch. 

lyih ro'i.'. — Repeat 13th row. 

iStli rozL'. — Rei>eat 14th row. 

iQili row. — Repeat 15th row. 

20fli row. — Repeat 1 6th row. 

2Jst rozi.'. — Daisies all around, 17 for front, 13 
fur hack. 

7'() niukc dai.\-ii\i. — Chain 6, fasten to form ring, 
I'hain 2. Make 12 rolls of ij threads each, fasten 
iJth roll to 1st, cut thread and fasten. .Sew daisies 
together, heginning where thread hangs loose, so 
that the loose end may be hidden, and fasten 2 rolls 
in one to 2 in the other. Have thread long enough 
to sew together i round of daisies. In sewing 
daisies to cap, do not break thread, but fasten in ch 
of last row. 

Babj^'s Cap 

Materi.\ls, — rThrec spools crochet silk, hook to correspon-I, 

Chain 6, join to form ring. 

1st round. — Chain 2, d c into ring 28 times. 

.'(/ round. — ]\Iake one roll in top of each st of ist 
round. 

Make roll by throwing thread over hook 20 
times, and taking all ofi at once. 

?(/ round. — Chain 3, d c between first 2 rolls, 
ch 3, s c into top of last st, repeat mitil there are 
three picots, ch 3, s c between next 2 rolls. This 
makes clover leaf. Work them all around. 

4th round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of first clover 



leaf, ch 7, fasten in top of next leaf, ch 7, fasten in 
next, etc. 

'itii round. — Make 5 roll stitches in each space of 
4th round. 

0th round. — Ixcpcat 3d round. 

Jth round. — Chain 3 between each leaf unless cap 
cups too nuich, when (1 or 7 should be made. 

Sih round. — Repeat 3lh munil. 3 rolls to each 
space. 

(;//; round. — Repeat 3d roiuid, I leaf to 2 rolls, then 
I to 4, alternate thus around cip. 

lOtJi round. — Rejjeat 7th rnund. 

////( round. — Repeat >Sth muud. 

iJth round. — Repeat <)lh rdund, I leaf to every 4 
rolls. 

i:;th round. — Repeat 12th rounil. i leaf between 
each one of 12th round. 




Baiiy's Cap 



/.///; round. — Chain 3, s c in top of leaf of 13th 
round, ch 3, d c in top of leaf iti 12th round, etc. 
This completes crown. 

i~ith row. — Repeat Sth round, 2 rolls to each 
s]iace. Leave off 6 leaves to form back. Clip silk. 

l6th roxv. — Fasten in first leaf of 15th row and 
re|)eat 6th round. 

ijth row. — Chain 4 lietween each leaf. 

iSth roio. — Repeat 13th row. Clip silk. 

loth roio. — Repeat ]6th row, fastening in first leaf 
of I Sth row. 

30tli row. — Repeat 17th row. 

2ist row. — Shell of 10 rolls at corner, fasten 
in 2d leaf of front, shell of 7 rolls in next leaf and 
fasten in next, etc. 



If there are too many leaves. 



31 



skip 2 in place of i at intervals. There should he 
ahout 17 shells across front, and six across back. 

22d rozv. — Chain 3. s c in space between first 2 
stitches of first shell, ch 3, s c between next 2 sts, etc., 
entirely around cap. 

This cap will fit a child. 2 or even 3 years old. If 
a smaller one is desired make 24 d c in ist round. 

Baby's Hood 

This hood requires i skein of Shetland floss. 

Chain 8. join. 

1st row. — Chain 3, s c in st, * ch 3, s c in next * 
7 times, making 8 loops. 

-'(/ row. — * Single crochet in ist st of ch, 3 s c in 
ne.xt, I s c in next, miss s c, * 8 times; join by si st, 
turn. 

;d roTi'. — Miss I st, * i s c in next, 3 s c in next, I 
in next, miss 2; * repeat around, si st at end of row, 
then turn. 

^tli roit'. — Like 3d, always taking back loop of st. 

^tli row. — Single crochet in each st, making 3 s c 
in I at point. 

6th roiv. — Three s c in each point, missing 2 s c 
between points. 

jth row. — Like 5th. 

8th, oth rows. — Like 6th. Now work 8 rounds 
plain bean st. (.See directions for bean stitch, page 
44-) 




BAiiv's Hood 

iSth ro'w. — Work bean st, missing 
of row. Turn. 

lOth rocL'. — Treble crochet in bean 
next bean, * repeat around face. 



8 lieans at end 
* ch I, tr c in 



201 h row. — A bean in each tr c. 

2ist, 23d. 2jd. 24th rows. — Plain bean st, using 
pink, for 23d row. 

25//; rozv. — All the way around work loops, s c 
in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next. 

Trim with ribbon as shown in cut. 

Baby's Shawl 

Materials. — Six skeins of wliite Saxony, 5 yards of No. 2 i)inl< 
riijbon, and medium-sized bone hook. 

The centre is in star stitch. Chain 150 on which 
work a row of 70 stars and clip wool. 




n.ABv's Shawl 

2rf ro7t' — Work a star over each one of the first 
row. Break the wool at the end of each row. 
To keep the sides straight, in every alternate row 
begin by placing a star over the first two stars, 
and working an extra star at the end of the row. 
This keeps the same number of stars. Work un- 
til the shawl is square. 

The border is in five rows. 

I.J/ roiv — Double crochet with 2 ch between, mak- 
-ing holes for the ribbon. 

2(/ rozv — Wool over the needle twice, take a st in 
the top of a d c, wool over, draw wool through 2 sts 
rm the hor)k, wool over, take a st in the next d c, 
crochet all the sts on the hook off two at a time, 
ch 2, d c in the st at the crossing of the treble. 
The next cross tr begins in the same d c as the pre- 
ceding tr ends. Make the work full at tlie corners 
so it will lie flat. 

3rfro'i' — Shell of 2 d c, 2 ch, 2 d c in the st be- 
tween 2 tr, and fasten by s c in the st between the 
next 2 tr. 

4//; row — Work the same shell in a shell, with a 
d c in the s c between. 



32 



^tli row — In each shell of the 4th row make 3 
(1 c, 3 picots by chaining five for each p and 
fastening back into the top of the 3d d c, 3 d c, 
s c in the d c between the shells. 

Run the ribbon through the open spaces of the 
first row, and make a bow at each corner. 

Baby's Bootees 

This requires a little more than one skein of Shet- 
land floss. (See directions for bean stitch, page 44.) 

Chain 34, join. Work 14 rounds of bean st. at end 
of each round work a s c in first bean of round, then 
turn. Work 2d round with pink. 

l^th round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c 
in next bean *. Repeat. 

l6th round. — A bean in each d c. 

ipli round. — A s c in each st, working 3 s c in 8th 
and I2th beans. Turn. 

i8th round. — Single crochet in s c, working 3 s c 
in I between widenings. Turn. Always t.ike liack 
loop of St. 

iQth round. — In this round widen by making 2 s c 
in every alternate st in space between widenings of 
17th riiund. 

20///, 2/j7 rounds. — Single crochet in each s c. 

221/ round. — Increase 6 sts arounil to(_-. 

2jrf, 2.jth. 2~illt. 26tli rounds. — Like 20th round. 

Around top work loops, as before. 




Baby's Bootee 

To make sole. — Chain 6. work 5 rows of s c, wid- 
ening I st at end of each row by putting 2 s c in 



Two rows plain. Four rows, widening i st at end 
of each. 

Two rows plain. Six rows, narrowing i st at end 
of each. One row plain. 

With needle and wool sew in sole. Run ribbon 
around ankle. 

Baby'.s Petticoat 

The model was in cream Saxony with a tiny blue 
stripe, and blue edge. Work an easy chain about 
24 inches long, it must be full long to fit on the 
bodice. 




Baby's Petticoat 

Jst row — Double crdchet. 

2(/ row — Three ch to stand for first stitch. I d c 
in next * I ch, miss a st. I d c in next; repeat from 
* and put an extra d c at the eml to strengthen the 
edge. 

;>,d row — Three ch to begin, i d c in every st, 
working into ch as if it was a d c. 

4?/; rozc — Three ch to begin, d c in everv st. 

5//; rozc — Like 4th. 

6//1 roze — Increase by putting 2 sis in every loth 

St. 

7//1, Sth and ()th rows — Plain (that is, without in- 
crease). 

lo'/i row — Increase hv putting 2 sts in every nth 

St. 

ii//(, 12/'/! and 13//! rows — Plain. 

This is far enough for a placket to suit some; 
if it is required longer increase in every 12th st, 
then work one, two or three plain rows, as wished. 



last St. Work 4 rows plain, then 2 rows, narrowing As soon as the placket is long enough unite in a 
at end of each bv taking 2 sts together. round and work the star stitch. 



LOFC. 



Chain 3, work a row of stars and join at end 
of row by slipping the hook througli tiie top of 
the first star of row, before finishing the final 
■ch, then finish the ch in the usual way. Any way 
will do, but this is a trifie snugger than some ways. 

The 2d and 3d rows are like the ist. 

4th roinid — Like 2d except that you increase 
every I2th star, putting three stars where there 
were but two in the previous row. This is man- 
aged by working the star sts a little closer and 
seeing that the last stitch of the last of the increase 
stars is in the eye of the last of two stars be- 
low. After this row you probably will not 
need to increase again, but if you feel it would be 
best, it is done as shown. Work 2 rows of l.ilue 
when the petticoat is about 9 or 9 1-2 inches deep, 
and then work on till the petticoat is a trifle shorter 
than you wish it to be (about 10 1-2 inches for a 
baby up to a year), when you work a row of close 
edge around, working in blue. 

Edge. — Work a d c in the e3'e of a star ; * work 
2 d c in the next eye of a star, 3 ch, l s c in the 
top of the last d c, I more d c in the same eye (3 
d c in all, with a picot on top of 2d stitch), i s c 
in the eye of the next star, and repeat from * all 
around. Crochet a border around the placket hole, 
run in ends, and sew the petticoat to a bodice. 

This same petticoat, worked in four- fold zephyr 
or good Germantown, made a trifle longer and tied 
round the waist loosely with a ribbon, was used 
with excellent results by a mother for putting on 
the baby when going out in the baby-buggy to 
"keep the lower part of the body warm. It was an 
easy matter to slip it on and off under its frock. 

Baby's Bed Socks 

Materials. — One skein of white zephyr and 1'2 skein of ])iiik 
or blue. 

To begin the upper part make a chain of 68 sts. 

1st roiv. — Always skip the first st, take I st up from 
each of the ne.xt 39 ch. leaving all on hook ; going 
back chain off 12. 

2d roK'. — Take 11 sts up from the last 11 of the 
12 sts chained off in the former row and 4 sts from 
the chain, then chain off 20 going back and crochet 
5th and 6th and also 15th and l6th sts together. 

_?(/ roiv. — Take up 2i sts and chain off 26 going 
back, narrow on each side of the 8 middle sts. 

^th and fjth rows. — Same as 3d row, going for- 
ward take up 4 sts from the chain, going back chain 
oft' 4 more at the other end. 

6th to i6th rows. — Proceed as before, but in the 
9th row chain 3d and 4th and also 3d and 4th to the 
last together as I, and from 13th to i6th rows work 
each half separately. 

Next work a row at the top consisting of I ch in 
every st in the former row, turn the work around, 
ch 3 and work a row of d c. I in each ch. at the end 



turn the work again and work 3 ch, go back with a 
row of d c as before. 

To make the turn-over, work on the wrong side 
only, breaking the wool at the ends. 




Baby's Bed Sock 



1st roiv. — Fasten the white zephyr and ch 3, * 
take I stitch up from the next and another from 
the one following and draw wool through these 
two, then draw it through the 2 sts on the hook and 
ch I. repeat from *. 

2d to jth roti's. — As 1st row, the 2d and 4th rows 
to be worked with colored wool. Work scallops 
around the edge as follows: ch 5, i ch in the first 
one, draw wool through the 2 sts on hook and 
work I ch into every other one in the former row. 

Work a star with colored wool on the front of the 
shoe. Then make a chain string for tying the shoe, 
draw it through the first row of d c at the top of the 
shoe. Trim the ends of this chain with little balls 
made of both colors of the wool. 

The sole is composed of 21 rows. Begin with 8 
ch and add one st on each side in the second row. 
In the 9th row narrow one on each side and in the 
1 2th row again add one. In the 20th row narrow 
I to shape the toe. At last work a row of ch around 
the sole : then take the colored wool and connect the 
upper part and the sole with ch sts worked on the 
right side. 

Baby's Socks 

These pretty little socks are made with two 
colors of fine Saxony wool. Pink and white are the 
colors used for the model ; pink for the slipper part, 
and white for the instep and leg. A scallop of pink, 
also, finishes the top. 

Begin at the ankle with the white, make a ch of 
40 sts and join in a ring to first st, put the hook 
through the 2d st of ch, wool over and draw it 
through ; keep this st on the hook and take up 10 
more sts in the same way. There will now be 12 
sts on the hook, which are to be worked off 2 at a 
time, by putting the wool over the hook and 
drawing it through 2 sts, wool over and draw 
it through 2 more, repeat until all are worked off. 



34 



Then insert the hook inider the first Httle perpen- 
dicular bar made in the previous row, woo! over 
the hook, draw it througli, pick up the 2d Httle bar, 
wool over and draw it through as before ; so con- 
tinue until there are again 12 sts on the hook, which 
work off, 2 at a time, as in first row. 

Make 12 rows of these little squares for the instep, 




Baby's Sock 

break off the wool, and begin at the back with pink 
wool. Make a d c in each st all around the ankle 
and instep, widening by jnitting in an extra d c at 
each corner of the toe. The next row is made like 
the last. 

Now make two rows of d c without widening. 
Then two rows more which are to be narrowed by 
missing a st at each corner of the toe and in the 
middle of the l>ack. Turn the slipper wrong side out, 
and crochet the edges together along the bottom of 
the foot, with s c. 

For the straps across the instep, with the pink wool 
make a ch of 9 sts. make a d c in the fourth st from 
the hook, a d c in each of the 5 remaining ch, then, 
beginning on the right-hand side, make a d c in 
each d c around the ankle, leaving the white ch on 
the inside ; make another ch of g sts at the other side 
of slipper and work back on it with d c. break off 
the wool and fasten the ends on the inside. M.ake 
a row of scallops around the top of slipper. 

Now, with the white wool, make a d c in each 
of the little white loops of the foundation ch. 
Make 2 more rows of d c around the leg. Then 
make a puff st in every other d c all around. 
Puff st is ni;idc as follows: wool oyer llic hook, 
insert hook in the work, wool over and draw it 
through, draw the st out ■ j inch long, repeat twice, 
when there will be 7 long sts on the hook, wool 
over and draw it through all 7 sts at once, wool 
over, draw it through the i st. For the 5th row 
make a d c in each ch on top of the row of puff sts. 
Make l more row nf d c. then a row of puffs, 2 rows 



of d c, a third row of puff's, and finish with a row 
of scallops in the pink wool. 

Fasten the straps across the instep with a cord 
and tassels made of the pink wool, or with a nar- 
row pink ribbon. 

Babj^'s Socks 

M.MERiALs. — -\ full !i.iIf-oiijice of crc.iin and a full half-ounce 
of liaby piuk Sa.Kony; a No. 14 hnnc hook, or a hook which will 
iii.ikr a stitch about 1-7 of an inch long, and a "short" quar- 
tci nf an inch deep. 

Use cream wool and make J I easy chain. Turn, 
miss I ch, work a d c in each of the remaining 20 
ch. 

j(/ rozc. — ( )nc ch tii turn. I d c in the back loop 
of each of the 20 sts. 

Repeat the second row till ij rows are done; the 
work will be in ridges. 

Now make 13 easy ch, miss 1 and work _^4 sts. 

2d roi\.'. — Make i ch to turn, and work 34 sts. 
Keep up the ridges throughout. 

Repeat the 2d row till you have 12 long rows. 

Now break off the wool and then work the second 
side of the ankle like the first on 20 sts. When the 
12 rows are done, always keeping up the ridge 
character, break off the wool, leaving an end, and 
sew the two sides of the liack together. 

.Voii' make the foot. — Use the pink wool; make a 
d c in the seam, make 14 d c along six ridges, 14 d c 
along the instep, I d c in the corner, 5 on the 
ridges across the toe; i in the ne.xt corner, 14 on 
the second side of instep and 14 along ridges at the 
bottom of the leg, altogether 64 sts. Join to the first 
stitch and work three more rounds, joining each 
round as completed on 64 sts. 

5//; round. — One ch to begin, work 28 d c down one 
side, take 2 d c together and work I over it, work the 
3 in the middle of the toe, take 2 together, and work 
the remaining 2^ and join. This decreases 2 sts. 

6th round. — Plain, without decrease. 




Baby's .Sock 



yth round. — Plain, till you come to within 2 sts of 
the centre 3. take those 2 together, work the centre 3 
as usual, then decrease again; finish the round and 
join on the centre st, wliich was made over the sew- 



3.5 



ing up the back. There should be 60 sts, inchuliug 
the one made at the back, on which you do the join- 
ing of the round. 

Sth round. — Make 2 ch, 3 d c, decrease, then 
work around till 5 sts are left; decrease; work the 
3 sts and join to the 2 cli. ( If you find that i ch 
makes a better joining st in your style of work, 
only make i ch ). 

Qth roi:ud. — Make the ch, 2 d c, decrease, I st 
in each st till within 2 of the centre 3 at toe, decrease, 
work the centre 3, and work the other half of the 
round to match that first done, join as usual. 

loth round. — Two ch, I d c, decrease, work a d c 
in every st till there is only i st unworked between 
the worked side ami the central 3 at the toe; take the 
unworked st and one of the central 3 together, work 
the middle st of the central 3, then narrow by takin.t; 
2 together ; work down the side, till there are only 3 
sts left. Take 2 together, work the last st in the 
ordinary way and join to the first stitch of the round, 
which is the small crochet chain made at beginning. 
Join neatly up the middle of the sole without draw- 
ing the sts tiglit. 

Edge Round Top of Leg. — Use pink wool, and 
holding the wrong side of the sock toward you, 
make a d c in the seam at the back ; * then make 2 
ch. 5 tr, in the next depression between ridges, 2 ch, 
I d c in the next depressed ridge, and repeat from *. 
This is the style of work, but get 8 scallops in the 
round. 

2d round of top. — Still use pink wool and n^ake a 
d c in the back loop of the first tr of the first group; 
one d c in back of next st, * 3 ch. i d c in next st ; 
repeat from * once, then make a d c on tlie last tr in 
the group. 

Edge each scallop the same way. Then tack the 
scallops down lightly and loosely all round. 

For Strap. — Still use the pink wool, make 3 ch. 

1st roiv. — Miss i ch, make a d c in each of the two 
remaining sts. 

2d rozv. — One ch to turn, i d c in the back loop 
of each st. 

Repeat the 2d row till 38 or 40 rows are done, or 
until the strap will go comfortably round the ankle. 
Then leave a pretty long end of wool, and crochet 
a tiny chain for a buttonhole, fastening the end of 
the chain neatly to the strap. 

Turn in the other end neatly or crochet a tiny bit 
to strengthen where the button is sewn on, hut be 
sure not to make it clumsy. There may be 3 sts in 
width in this strap. Of course in this case make 4 
ch to begin. 

Baby's Bath Robe 

Materi.\ls. — Eleven skeins of white .ind l of pink or blue Ger- 
mantown, and a medium-sized bone hook. 

This robe is large enough for a baby six months 
old. If a larger or smaller robe is desired, in- 
crease or decrease the number of stitches to begin 



at the neck, and also the numlier of stitches in the 
first row. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 70 stitches of 
the white Germantown, turn and work a half- 
double in each st of the ch. To make a half-double 
throw wool over hook, take up a st, then draw 
wool through 3 sts on the hook. 

2d row — Chain 3, take 2 sts in the 3 ch, i in 
top of last h d c and I in each of the next 2 sts, 
making 5 on the hook for the first star. For the 
second star take a st in side of the star, i in h d c 
below and in each of next 2 sts. Work 11 stars, 
widen. 14 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

T,d rozv — Turn and work a h d c in the eye of 
each star and in the 2 sts at the top of each. 




ISabv's Bath Rore 

To widen this row work 2 h d c in each side of 
the widened star of the previous row. 

4//; rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 7 
stars, widen. 7 stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 1 1 stars. 

~,th rozv — Same as 3d row. 

Gtli rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 3 stars, widen, 
work across tlie l)ack. widen, 3 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

///; rozv — Same as 3d and 5th rows. 

8//( rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 12 
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 11 
stars. In this row the widening in middle of back 
begins. 

gth rozv — Same as 3d, 5th, and 7th rows. 

10//! rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 6 stars, widen, 12 
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 6 stars, widen, 11 stars. 

nth rozv — Same as 7th row. These 11 rows fin- 
ish the yoke to tops of the sleeves. 

Begin at the right corner, work 11 stars, widen. 



36 



turn, ch 3, and work a row of h d e, then a row of 
stars, then another of h d c until 5 short rows are 
worked, fasten oft. Skip the li d c between the wi- 
denings on the shoulder, fasten wool and work stars 
across the back to first widening of left shoulder, 
turn, and make 5 rows same as for front. Work 
the left front same as the right. 

Begin again at corner, work h d c to the first 
arnihole. ch 12. work across the back, cli 12. work 
to the end of row. Turn. 

The following 40 rows are of stars and h d c 
alternating, and in every alternate star row widen 
one star under each arm and op.e in middle of back. 
To keep the front edges even, widen a h d c at the 
end of each row. 

For the sleeve take up 25 stars around the arm- 
hole, fasten last to the first, turn for the h d c rows. 
Make the sleeve 12 rows long. W'itli the pink work 
a row of h d c in eyes of the stars, to draw in the 
sleeve into cuff. Work two more rows with the 
pink, then finish the edge with a scallop of the 
white. Work the second sleeve same as the first. 

With the pink begin at the right corner at neck 
and work a row of double crochet with i ch be- 
tween across the neck. Work h d c down the front, 
across the bottom, and up the right front. Turn 
and work another row of h d c around the garment. 
Place close enough together to make the work lie 
flat. With the white yarn work a row of shells 
(6 d c fastened with single crochet) all around the 
garment and across the neck. 

Make a twisted cord of pink and white to run 
through the neck. Make a ball for each end. 

Baby's Nightingale 

Materi.\ls. — Four balls or sktiiis of white Pompadour wool, ^ 
balls of color desired. -■ yards of ribbon, bone crochetdiook. 

With the white wool work a chain of 56 stitches, 
turn and work a double crochet in Sth st from end 



of ch, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d 
St, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d st ; 
continue in this way along ch, ending with a d c in 
1st st of ch. Vou will then have seventeen squares 





IJ.VUY'S NiGHTINUALE 



Sh.VPE of B.ABY'S NlGHTIXfi.-M.E 

through which ribbon is to be run to tie around 
neck. (See illustration.) Chain 4, turn and work 
shell of 3 d c in ist square, ch 2 and work shell in 
2d square, ch 2 and work shell in 3d square, 
ch 2 and work shell in 4th square, ch 2 and work 
shell in 5th square, ch 2 and work another shell in 
5th s(|uare. Continue in this manner across, work- 
ing double shells in the 9th and 13th squares, so that 
work will form a square as shown in cut. After 
working shell in last square, ch I and work an 
extra d c in s(iuare. Chain of 4. turn and work 
shell lietween the e.xtra d c and shell in preceding 
row. Continue across, working a shell in ch be- 
tween shells of preceiling row, working double shells 
for widening at the same point as in previous row. 
Continue in this manner until you have fifteen rows 
of white. 

Border. — .Start at one side of front with colored 
woi>l anil wiirk I row across, then i row of 
white, I row of color, I row white, ending with 
I row of color, being sure to work the double shells 
at same place to keep it square. 

CoLi..\K. — Work in same manner as the body. I 
row of white in the squares at neck, working double 
shells in same squares as for body. I row of color, 
I row white. I row color, i row white, ending with 
I row color, 

Edi.e .Arouxd Nir.HTixG.\LE. — Start at one of the 
points with white wool and between double shells 
work a shell of 7 d c. fastening with s c in next 
square, shell of 7 d c in next square, continue in 
this manner around nightingale, having a shell at 
each point. Finish the shells with picot edge of 
the colored wof)l. Tie how of ribbon on ist and 
3d points at the double shells between 3d and 4th 
row from bottom. Tie first point together between 



3il and 4tli rows from bottom at the 8th shell on 
each side from point to form sleeve. Tie 3d point 
in same manner, the middle point being centre of 
back. Rnn ribbon through squares at neck and 
leave ends to tie. 

Baby's Mittens 

Use white Saxony and a line bone hook. The 
mittens are made throughout in single crochet by 




IJABV's Mitten 

taking the front part of the stitch and working 
around and around. 

Begin with chain of 46 closed to form a ring. 
Work two rows of s c. then a row of double crochet 
to run ribbon through. Work eight more rows of 
s c, which brings the work to base of the thumb. 
In the next row begin widening for the thumb by 
placing 2 stitches in one. In the following seven 
rows widen 2 sts, one each side of the thumb in 
each row. The 16 widened sts form the thumb. 
Fasten the last and first one together and crochet 
the thumb. To narrow off the thumb take 2 sts in 
one to narrow, leaving the thumb the desired 
length. 

Fasten on the wool for the hand, and work eight 
rows before tlie narrowing begins. To narrow off 
the tip, narrow a st on each side in every alternate 
row for eight rows, then narrow three or four in 
each row until the sts are all narrowed off. The 
worker can tell how often to narrow to shape the 
end right. 

Crochet two rows of shells across the top with a 
ch of two fastened into each st of the last row of 
shells. Run baby ribbon through the row of d c 



in the wrist. The mittens can be made larger by 
beginning with more stitches, and widening more 
for the thumb. 

Baby's Mittens 

This reqm'res about one skein Shetland floss. 

Chain 28, join. (See directions for bean stitch, 
page 44. ) 

1st round. — Work around in bean st. 

2d round. — With pink work around in bean st. 

jrf, 4tlt, f,th rounds. — Bean st with white. 

6tli round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c 
in ne.xt liean *, repeat. 

pit round. — A bean in each d c. 

Stii round. — Single crochet in each st except in 
centre of round, work 2 s c in a st, I s c in next, 2 
s c in next, turn. 

p/A round. — Single crochet in s c, taking back 
loop of st, turn at end of each round. 

lOtli round. — Single crochet in s c, widening as 
before, leaving 3 sts between widenings. 

Ilth round. — Single crochet in s c. 

I2th routid. — Like loth round, having 5 sts be- 
tween widenings. 

l^th round. — Single crochet in s c. 

i^tli round. — Single crochet in s c at 1st widen- 
ing, ch 3, miss 9 sts between widenings for thumb. 

Work 8 rounds plain, working s c on 3 ch. 

2jd round. — Narrow every 9th st. Continue nar- 
rowing in same place in every round till closed. 

Join wool to thumi) ; work 7 rounds, then nar- 




Bauy's Mitten 

row every 3d st, continue narrowing in same place 
in each round until closed. 

Around wrist work loops, s c in st, ch 3, miss i, 
s c in next. Run ribbon through at wrists. 



38 



Infant's Sack 

This sack is designed for a year-old child, and 
takes five skeins of white Saxony. If color is 
desired, as shown in the illustration, one skein 
will be required. The yoke is made in rib-stitch and 
with the long shoulder effect. Start at the neck 
with ch 51. 

1st roii' — Twelve s c in 12 ch, beginning on jd 
ch. Increase in next ch by working 3 s c in l ch st ; 
now 24 s c for back, increase on next ch; now 12 
s c for front. 

2d rote — Chain i, s c in each s c to the in- 
crease. Increase in first and last st of the increase 
and plain between. This makes the shoulder-piece 
between the increases. Single crochet to the next in- 
crease and do the same here. Finish off the row with 
s c. Repeat this row until the yoke is deep enough, 
which should be when there are 8 or 9 ribs done. 

For the long shoulders, work back and forth be- 
tween the increases over the shoulders, missing 
a st at the end each time until only a s c remains. 

The sleeves are worked on these extended points. 
Connect corners by ch 6 for under the arm, and 
work around with d c for first row. 

2d ro7v. — Make 3 ch. now a st like this: Wool 
over the hook, bring up a loop around a d c and 
draw it out about three-quarters of an inch, repeat 
once more, then wool over the hook and draw 
through all the loops, now I ch ; this completes the 
stitch. Make this stitch into every other d c. 

3d rozv — Chain 3 and now the same st into each 
st of previous row, making them around 4 of the 
top loops. This is to raise them. Make the sleeve 
13 rows in length, then work on the cuff' of 4 ribs. 
Edge this with a rufHe of 4 d c in every other s c, 
with a 3-ch picot between. 

Work the skirt of the sack the same as the 
sleeves. 15 rows in length. Edge with a large scal- 




In.fan't's Sack 
lop at the bottom made with S d c and a 3-ch picot 
betvveen, the remainder edge with a ruffle same as 
the sleeve. 

Also work a ruffle at the edge of the yoke. 

If a color is used for yoke and cuffs, then all the 
rufifles and scallops are edged with 3 ch and si sts 
of it. 



Infant's Bootees 

This bootee is made of twofold Saxony and is 
widened on top like a slipper. The top of the foot, 
however, is not ribbed, as it is crocheted around 
and around, making the sole as well as the upper. 

Chain 13, around which make a row of s c, 
widening 2 s c at each end of chain and at point half 





5 


^if;,f 




; 


iliil^' 




Hijfjli-I. 




■ '^^^""'' 


^«»#. 



Infant's Bootee 

way between on one side, taking up back part of st 
only on upper side, and both parts on sole. Continue 
thus widening for 5 rows, then widen in centre front 
only 2 s c every other row for 14 rows, making 19 
rows in all. Then work back and forth across sole, 
taking up both sts of 20 s c for 14 rows, then leav- 
ing oft' I s c at each end of next 4 rows, fasten wool 
and clip. Tie wool in at centre point in front, ch 18, 
on which make 16 s c, which brings you to front part 
already crocheted. Work on down to sole, catching 
into sole by si st, turn and work back to end. Con- 
tinue around the sole, working up and down, taking 
up back st and catching into sole, so that the rows 
of top will correspond to rows of sole; the model 
has 25 ribs or 50 rows. 

Run ribbon through at ankle and finish top with 
fancy edge. 

Child's Ball 

Take a large ball of yarn, or a very thin rubber 
one. Commence the cover of worsted by making 
a ch of 4 sts ; join in a circle, and work in tr st, in- 
creasing at regular intervals until the work is large 
enough to cover one-half the ball; then work a few 
rows without increasing, draw the cover over the 
ball, letting the wrong side of the work be outside, 
and work the other half to correspond with the first 
half, decreasing at regular intervals and putting tlie 
hook in from the inside. A pattern of bright 
flowers worked with worsted round the centre adds 
greatly to the attractiveness of the ball to a child. 



39 



Child's Cloak 

Materials. — Five skeins of white Spanish yarn, i ball of knit- 
ting silk, 5 yards No. i^ ribbon, i^ yards No. 12 rib- 
bon, 6 fancy pearl Inittons and 1 yard of silk cord. A 
medium-sized crochet-hook. 

This cloak is for a child one year old, in short 
clothes. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 112 stitches. 
Work a s c in 2d St from the hook, and in next 2 




Child's Cloak 

stitches, 3 s c in the next, s c in each of next 3 stitches 
of chain, * skip I ch, 3 s c, 3 s c in next, 3 s c and 
repeat from * to end of the chain, thus starting 14 
points for the yoke. Chain 2, turn, work s c in 
each s c of the first row, taking back of the stitch. 
Repeat until the yoke is 18 rows deep, placing 3 
sts in the point in every alternate row. 

The body is attached to the under side of the 
yoke, under the points. Instead of working the first 
row around the points, go straight across diagonally. 
Begin at the corner of the front, and work d c for 
the first row, placing them close enough so the work 
will not draw in. Chain 3, turn, work a star over 
every 2 d c to the middle of the space between the 
2d and 3d points of yoke, skip the 3d, 4th and 5th 
points for the sleeve, working the next star in the 
middle of the space between the 5th and 6th points, 
work stars across the back to the middle of the space 
between the 9th and loth points, skip loth. nth 
and I2th points for the other sleeve and work next 
star in middle of space between the 12th and 13th 
points, finish to the corner of yoke. Chain 3, turn, 
d c in eye of the last star, then d c back in the 2 st 
at the top of the last star, thus making a small stack 



stitch. Repeat the stacks to the end of the row, 
placing one over each star. The next row is of 
stars, placing a star over each stack, and widen- 
ing a star under each arm and in middle of the back. 
To widen work a star between 2 stars without tak- 
ing any stitches of the row preceding. The body is 
all made of these 2 rows until it is the desired length, 
widening as in the preceding row in every alter- 
nate star row. Work a row of s c across the bot- 
tom, then break the wool and fasten to the upper 
corner of the left side of yoke and work a row of 
s c across the fronts and the bottom. 

Fasten the wool in the lower side of the armhole 
and work a row of 26 stars for the sleeve. Sleeves 
are made same as the body, working 10 rows, then 
join the edges. Begin the cuff by a s c in every alter- 
nate stitch of last row, work around for 4 rows, 
then a row of d c, with 2 ch between for the ribbon, 
and finish witli a row of shells, each of 6 d c, joined 
by s c. 

Begin at the right corner for the collar, working 
a row of d c with 2 ch between for the ribbon. Turn, 
ch 3 and work a row of stars by placing a star over 
each stitch beneath instead of over every 2 stitches, 
thus making the fullness for rounding the collar. 
The next row is stacks, then a star row, then an- 
other stack row. Finish the collar and each side of 
the front with a row of shells, each of 6 d c joined 
l)y s c. and made close enough to round the cor- 
ners of the collar nicely. Edge the yoke around the 
points with shells, then finish the shells of yoke, 
collar, fronts, and sleeves with knitting silk, by 
chaining 3 and joining by s c in each st of shells. 

Run the narrow ribbon through the spaces made 
by the widenings in each point and leave a loop and 
end at each point. Use the wider ribbon for ties, 
running it through the spaces at the neck. 

Sew three buttons on each side to a tape on the 
underside, and make loops of the cord for fasten- 
ings. 

Child's Slippers 

Materials. — One skein of pink Ciennantown, a part of a skein of 
pink Saxony for the border, and i yard of i-inch ribbon. The 
soles are No. 7. To make the work firm use a rather fine hook. 

Begin at the toe with a chain of 15 stitches. 
Turn and single crochet in each of the first 7 



-^ 




Child's Slipper 



40 



sts, 3 s c in the next st, 7 s c. For the second rozij 
work a s c in each s c of the first row. The whole 
slipper is worked in s c taking the back part of the 
stitcli each time. The \\ iilening is in the middle 
s c of every alternate row, until there are 18 ribs 
for the front of the sliiiper. Work iS sts for the 
siile. and crcjchct back and forth until there are iS 
ribs on one side. W Urk the other side same as the 
first, antl crochet the ends together at the back. 
For the border fasten the Saxony at the back of 
the slipper and work a row of treble crochet (t c). 
one in each rib around the top. At the lower edge 
of the t c row work a rciw by chaining 6 and fas- 
tening between the rilis. W'urk a row of shells, 
each of 4 d c in the t c row. then another row of 
shells between these shells, and at the outer edge 
ch 2 and fasten into each st of the last shell row. 
Double the toe and fasten to form a bo.x. Sew the 
slipper to the sole and run the ribbon through the 
spaces at the top, tying in a bow in front. 



Hood for Child of Three Years 

>I.\TERi.\i-s.— Three and one-Iialf skeins of Germantown zepliyr of 
one color, and i skein of a Iiarnionizing shade for trimming. 

Note. — Tlie rows of star stitcli only are counted in making tliis 
hood. 

Froxt Piece. — Chain 81, on which work 39 stars 
of 5 stitches. Chain 2, turn, taking up back st of 
stars, work row of single crochet, 2 sts to i star. 




Chain 3, turn, work an e.xtra star at each end of 
row. Work 5 rows of stars, alternating with s c, 
increasing i star at each end of each row of stars. 

B.\CK. — Chain 49, on which work 23 stars, turn, 
crochet row of s c. Work 9 rows of stars, alternat- 
ing with s c. io//( rozt.' — Skip I star at each end. 
Skip I star at each end of every 2 rows until you 
have 13 stars. Then skip I star at each end of next 
_' rows. Skip 2 stars at each end of next row. Then 
! until you have only 3 stars left, which should be 
22 rows. The other side is worked the same, start- 
ing with a row of s c on back side of ist row of 
stars, turning, crochet row of stars. 

To Put Together. — The points of front go to the 
face. Sew front and back together, joining one 
side of back from point at each end to front for 
five inches; then gather fulness to remaining front. 
Ihe other side of back gather to fit the back of 
head. F'inish edge of hood with row of hairpin- 
work of color and make three rosettes for front 
and three for back bv winding wool over fingers 
and tying in centre, mixing the shades of wool to 
suit. Sew rosettes in place. 



Napoleon Hat 



Hood for Chilu of Three Years 



Made of Germantown in 5-stitch star stitcli. It takes from 2 
to 3 skeins of cream and one of a contrasting color. 

Chain 5. Ski]) the ch st next to the hook and 
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
making 4 sts on the honk. These sts must be quite 
loose and the saiue length. Throw over the wool 
and take all 4 sts otY together, and finish the star 
by ch I to hold it together. Xow insert the hook in the 
first st of the star going down the side, it being a 
short stitch and called the eye of the star, draw the 
uiiol through, then through next st of the star, it 
bring a long one, then through st where last st of 
previous star was made: draw wool through all 4 
sts together, ch I. Repeat until you have 7 stars 
of 4 sts each, the 4th st always being put in the 
same place, which makes a circle. Fasten together 
by si st, ch 3, In succeeding rows this 4 st star is 
used to widen, all other stars having 3 sts. 

2(/ rozi.'. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
makes 3 loops on hook, draw wimiI through long st 
on top of star of |ireceding row, then through short 
st or eye of the star, making 5 sts on the hook, take 
off all 5 together, ch i, Xow make a 4 st star as 
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
so continue f<ir balance of row, widening every other 
star. 

31/ loze. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas- 
ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
7 stars, which will be 8 rows. Crochet 8 rows with- 
out wiilening. which finishes the crown. Then turn 
and crochet the brim so the right side of brim will be 



41 



to the wrong side of crown. Widen in first row 
every 6 stars, increasing I star between widenings 
for 7 rows, counting the first, when yon will widen 
every 12 stars. The next 4 rows are made without 
widening, the first two being of white and bkie 
stars ahernating, and the next two rows of tlie 
white. 



Napoleon Cap 




Napoleo.m Hat 



To iiuikc the two rows of alternate blue and while 
jiars. — Commence row witli a white star ; insert the 
hook through the eye of the star and draw tlie bhie 
wool through in a loop, leaving enough of the end 
on the wrong side so it won't pull through, finish 
up the blue star, the top loop of which will be white, 
drop the blue wool at back of work and pick up 
the white wool, insert the needle in the eye of the 
blue star and draw the cream wool through and 
finish the star as before. Proceed as before, always 
dropping tlie wool just used behind and in such a 
way tiiat it will not become tangled. Start in on 
the 2d row with a star of l:>lue over the white, being 
careful to keep them in this manner, one color over 
the other. 

Finish with blue picot etlge as follows: Chain 4 
s c into point where ch st started, ch 3, skip Imig si 
of the star and s c into eye of it, ch 3, s c into same 
stitch; ch 3, skip long st of the star, s c into eye, ch 3, 
s c into same st, and repeat. 

Line the wrong side of brim and crown with silk 
with interlining of canvas. Tack in shape with 
rosettes, which in the illustration are of staple 
work. Ties of rilibon or an elastic, as preferred, are 
used. 



Materials. — Five skeins zci)liyr, lo yards b.iby ribbon, and 
I yard of wide ribbon for ties. 

Chain 5. Skip the ch st ne.xt to the hook and 
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on 
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way, 
making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite 
loose and the same length. Throw over the wool and 
take all 4 sts off together, and finish the star by ch 1 
to hold it together. Now insert the hook in the ist 
st of the star going down the side, it being a short st 
and called the eye of the star, draw the wool through, 
then through next st of the star, it being a long one, 
then through st where last st of previous star was 
made; draw wool through all 4 sts together, ch I. 
Repeat until you have 7 stars of 4 sts each, which 
makes a circle. Fasten together by si st, ch 3. In 
succeeding rows this 4 st star is used to widen, all 
other stars having 5 sts. 

2(1 row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which 
makes 3 loops on hook ; draw wool through long st 
on top of star of preceding row, then through short 
st or eye of star, making 5 sts on the hook, take off 
all five together, ch i. Now make a 4 st star as 
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of 
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and 
so continue for balance of row, widening every 
other star. 

3(/ rozv. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas- 
ing I star between widenings until you widen every 
7 stars, which is 8 rows. Work 5 rows plain and 
clip wool. 

Dh'ide cro'vn in 4 parts, two opposite points being 
front and back, and the other two ear points. The 




Napoleon Cap 



42 



last row, if widened correctly, should contain 56 
stars, which, divided into points, would be 14 stars 
between. Fourteen stars from where the wool was 
clipped tie in the wool, and work row of d c around 
crown, which commences the brim, and should be 
made wrong side out. The entire brim is made of 
d c. ^^'ith the 2d row of which widen J d c at two 
apposite points, being front an<l back, for 2 rows, 
then widen 4 at same points until you have 9 rows. 
At ear points decrease 2 <1 c on the last 3 rows, and 
finish edge with picot edge or scallops. Either 
jf these two edges are very satisfactorv. Single 
:rochet into top of iirst d c. ch 3, s c into top of same 
1 c ; s c into top of next d c, ch 3, s c into top of same 
1 c. Or s c into top of 1st d c, ch 3, s c into top of 
iame d c, ch 3, s c into same place, ch 3, s c into same 
jlace, making three loii]is of 3 ch sts each; skip I d c 
uid s c into next, skip l d c and repeat the scallop. 
\fter finishing the edge, turn the lirim back over 
•ight side of crown and fasten puints at top with 
"osette, also finishing at ear points with the same 
■osette. 

These directions are for an infant's cap. To 
■nlarge : In making the crown widen for 9 rows in- 
;tead of 8, widening every 8 stars in 9th row. In 
inishing the crown work d iir more plain rows in- 
tead of 5. In making the brim divide as above and 
viden just the same, but there will be more d c in 
:ach division and two nmre rows must be wi irked 
lefore putting on picnt edge. 



crochet trinuning is all made and sewed on with the 
sewing-machine close to the edge of the rings, and 
around each stitching is placed a border of French 
knots with mercerized cotton. 

For the Froxt. — Sew twenty rings on the eigh- 
teen-inch edge: place the rings half way over the 
edge and sew half way around the rings. Four and a 
half inches back place amither row of twenty rings, 




Chilij's Bib 



Child's Cap and Bib with Crocliet 
Trimmings 

The cut shows a cap made of a piece of linen 
ighteen inches long and six inches wide. The 



■P 


^ ^^^^^H^^H^^H^I^H 


H # 




^^& 


* • vH 


K^ • 


* H 


K# * 






'''^-^^^. - ' -^ 


K^ 


%' * mm 


Br" * 


^I^H 


^^B $ 


mKj^M 


^ 


mtCmJi 



CniLij's Cap 



and sew this on both sides. Ddween these two rows 
of trinuning jilace the five crochet iiiotifx at regu- 
lar intervals; on the ends ]il;iee four or five rings 
to fill up between the rows. 

Make all the French knots and do the cutting out 
before gathering the crown, (blather it around a 
motif and sew the linen edges together as far as the 
ring trimming. It is by far the nicest to gather 
it on the ruftler and get it just the right size to fit 
under the motif. It should h.ave the rings half way 
over the edge of the g:ithers. 

A pretty way to trim this cap is to make a big 
bow of three-inch ribbon and i)lace it in the nape of 
the neck, and run long ends through the rings for 
tie-strings. Ruffle narrow lace and sew it on the 
edge of the trimming all around the cap. Laimder 
on the wrong side on very soft wool blanket. 

Detail of Crochet AIotif used on Cap. — Wind 
mercerized cotton ten times over the forefinger, slip 
off, work 6 d c in the ring; * wind another ring 
same size close to last st. fill thi> ring full of d c 
and join neatly with si >t. six more d c on the first 
ring; repeat from * untd you ha\-e six rings around 
the centre ring, the last ring join to the first and 
finish on the wrong side. The other rings are always 
joined to the preceding at points where they touch. 
It takes six of these motifs for the cap. The other 



43 



rings are wouml the same ami filled half, another 
wound and filled half, and so on, then tnrned and 
remainder filled. 

The Serviceable Bib is cut from very heavy 
white vesting. Around the edge it is hemmed 
on the machine and around the neck it is turned 
under half an inch (it must be snipped nearly half 
an inch rather close together before it can be 
turned.) Over it run three times with the sewing- 
machine one-eighth of an inch apart. 

Sew on the ring trimming with the machine, 
close to the edge of the rings, 
trimming and around the neck 
made with mercerized cotton, 
and buttonhole or with tape. 

Detail of Ring Trimming 
cotton ten times over forefinger and crochet needle, 
slip off, ch 3, work * 9 d c in the ring. For picot, 
ch 5 and fasten back in to[) of last d c. Now fill 
this tiny ring with S s c, work 9 more d c in ring; 
this fills it half full. Wind another ring close to 
last st, and repeat from * until long enough, then 
work back and fill remainder of rings without mak- 
ing the picrjts. 



Baby's Carriage Afghan 

Materials. — I'\tiir ounces white and j ounces of colored Sa.xony; 
a long double crochet-hook, a short crochet-hook of the same 
size. Fourteen yards of narrow satin ribbon to match the 
colored wool. In afyhan stitch. 



Border the edge of 
with French knots 
Close with button 

—Wind mercerized 



1 01 sts with both wools. With the 
oops; turn the work, and with the 



Make a ch of 
white raise 100 
colored wool draw through 2 loops at a time till 
all have been worked off. Break off the wool and 
recommence at the beginning. 

Work ~2 rows in this manner, always working in 
the same direction. 

Darn in the loose ends ., ,- , , . .... 

of wool with a needle. *..'«,.».-■■. ••'•;' 

This completes the centre. 'W,\'.'^ ,','■■'■'.'-- ■• 

For the Border. — Hold- ' ^',i'. '.','. ■ ". ', ^ - ". . Li 

ing the right side of 
the work towards you. 
with the white wool 
and short hook work 
in double stitch thus; i 
d c in the ist st ; * put 
the honk into the same 
wool 
hook 
and 
ih; 
ips 



For the Scallops. — Upon the wrong side make 1 
d c in the 1st st; * l ch, 5 long trebles, miss 2 sts, I 
d c into the 3d st and repeat from *. 

Run three rows of ribbon through the holes 
formed by the double stitches, and make four 
bunches of loops at the corners. 



Babj''s Sack 

This pretty sack requires six skeins of white Shet- 
land floss. Yoke in Russian crochet, skirt in bean 
stitch. 

Chain 93. 

1st row. — Miss I, I s c in ne.xt, ch i, miss I, * 2 
s c in next 2, 3 s c in next, 2 s c in next 2, miss 2; 
repeat from * to end of row, ending with ch I, miss 
I, I s c. Turn. 

^d row. — Chain I, I s c in back loop of st, ch I, * 
miss 2, s c in next, 2 in next, 3 in next, 2 in next, I 
in next; repeat from * ending with ch l, miss 2, I 
s c. Continue working until there are 12 rows, 
widening in each row by making 3 s c in centre of 
each point, and in every alternate row, 2 s c in st 
each side of point. 

Skirt. — ijitli row. — Work across in bean st. 

To make beau stiteli. — * Miss 2 sts, insert hook in 
next, draw wool through, wool over, draw another 
loop through same st, over, another loop through 
same st, over, and draw through all 6 loops, ch I. 
Repeat from *, turn. In making following rows, 
work last bean, at end of each row, in the two end 
sts of bean of previous row. 

14th /'Oil'. — Bean st as in 13th row, exce[)t miss 
iiiilv I st aroimd 2 points, ch 20. miss 2 points, beans 






><r. 



• •.»>*.*•. A ,»« .f.r '-r V r ■ 

' .-^ ,f^ f%-*-* f J > • -- - i 



• ■»■•'» -•> 1 ft ( t-f 

• #•?»-■-■>■/ 

• ^ ■# !» • * > • 

■*;» ^-t *:• ^ 



'/ 9 *• » * * ^ » »«■**■.♦ t ^ ^ _f .* * * ^'i * 

,.. w'.^ ^ *:» • > * » * ' t * • - .-tp't... » ■ 



draw the 
put the 
next st 
wool thr(ius 
1 be ^1 Ic 



.> 



st and 

through. 

into the 

draw the 

there will 

on the hook ; w o o 1 

over anil draw the 

wool through all the 

loops at once. Repeat 

from *. Work three 

more rows of d c. 



■'*••»*-•* **r' ''"1* ' ■* ^ 




.Section of Baiiv's Carriage Afghan 
44 



Bai'.v's Sai k 



l>cans ;icrijss chains 



across 5 points cli 20, miss 2 points, beans across 2 
ponits, turn. 

ifitli rOi^'. — When workin 
miss 2 sts between beans. 

Work 2/ rows, always missing the ist space be- 
tween beans. Now with pink crochet a row of beans 
down fronts and around bottom, working 3 beans in 
I at corners; turn. 

With white, work 3 rows of bean st on fronts and 
bottom, always working 3 beans 
in one at corners. With white, s 
c in St. ch 3, miss l. s c in next, 
all around. 

.•\rolxi) Xeck. — 1st rcti'. — 
Single crochet in point, ch 4. s c 
in ne.xt point; repeat around. 

2d ro-n'. — Two s c in 2 sts. 3 s c 
in ne-\f, * 4 s c in next 4 sts, 3 s c 
in next ; repeat. 

?rf roiv. — A s c in each st, 
working 3 s c in i at each point. 

4tli row. — With pink work 
around in bean st, missing 2 sts 
between beans, though always 
working a bean in point. 

5//1 row. — With white work 
round in bean st and loops as 
around skirt. 

For Sleeve. — Work 25 rounds of bean st. turn- 
ing at end of each round and keeping sleeve closed. 

Treble crochet in bean. * ch i. tr c in next bean. * 
repeat; turn. Another round of bean st, then a 
round of pink, one round white, then loops as be- 
fore. Run ribbon around neck and wrists. 



arcjumi the neck it is worked 
from tlie l)oltoni of the yoke 
across the shoulders; each 
shoulder lieing worked in a 
point. This is a simpler way 
of making a yoke than the old 
way. for in this there are no 
increases to make. 

Licgin the yoke u ith 60 loose 
ch. which exleud across the 
shouliler, 3 ch e.xtra to turn. 
In the 41 li ch make this new 
ami on;.;inal rili slitch: * wool 
o\ er hook, draw up a loop 1-2 
inch long, W(ioI over hook, 
draw up another loop same 
size, wool over hook, draw up 
another loop same size, wool 
over hook, draw up another loop same size, now wool 
over and draw tb.rough all but the last loop on the 
hook, wool over and dr.aw' through the two loops 
and pull up the wool tight, now i ch. This is one 
st and is repeated from * in every second ch. mak- 
ing 30 sts in the row. 

2d roi^' — Three ch to turn. The sts are made the 
same as in first row. but are plac-d differently. 
Tn place of going in a ch yon make the loops aroimd 




Baby's Sack 



Materials. — Six skeins of Sa.xony were used in tlie miMltl. 
which is large enough for a child one year old or proi)ahly 
older. .\ bone crochet-hook that slants to a point is used, 
as the skirt is made mostly in Relief Crochet. 

In this sack the yoke extends below the arm- 
holes, and in place of being worked back and forth 



Babv's Sack 

the top of each st ; this is done by inserting the 
hook on the right side of st and bringing it out on 
left side of st, and bring the loops through this 
l)lacc ; this makes the heavy rib. Two rows make 
one rib and each row must have 30 sts. Repeat 
the 2d row until you ha\e three full ribs for the 
shoulder. 

Now for back of neck work 14 sts. one rib and 
a half, add 32 ch loosely for right front, three extra 
to turn, work 30 sts again until there are 8 whole 
ribs on the back yoke. Break wool and fasten at the 
neck. 

To work the fronts, make 14 sts, 2 ribs for each 



4.5 



front. For the under-ann, work 4 sts in length two 
rows or one rih at either the front or back yoke, 
and join it to make the annhole. To make the 
extension shoulders, begin 2 sts away from the 
short rib and work back and forth, missing two 
sts at the start and the end of each row until to a 
point. A little over two ribs brings it to the point. 

l-or the skirl, start with right side toward you, 
the side that counts whole ribs. Always begin row 
with 3 ch, 2 d c in each row, working the d c around 
the st to give a good strong body, 
in the centre of each rib make 
a Rose Treble Shell of 4 sts. * 
Work this stitch by winding 18 
times over hook, insert in rib, 
Jjring wool through, wool over, 
and draw through 2 loops, wooi 
over and draw through 2 loops, 
wool over and draw through the 
rest of the coil, wool over and 
draw througli i loop and pull up 
wool tight to curl the coil. Re- 
peat the detail from * for each 
stitch in shell. This row has 20 
shells with 4 doubles between 
each shell. 

2d row — Chain 3. d c in eacli d 
c, and in shells work ch 2, a d c in centre of shell, 
ch 2, a d c in same place, ch 2, then d c in d c 
again. 

31/ row — Same as first, only there is a different 
foundation now. The d c are made in the d c and 
the shells in the centre of 2 chain in centre of shell. 

Alternate the 2d and 3d rows until there are 7 
shell rows; btU in the 4th shell row use five Rose 
Treble, in the 5th the same, in the 6th use 6, and 
in the 7th use 7, and in this last use s c over the 
d c ill place of d c. 

The sleeves are made like the skirt. Regin on 
the under arm, manage to work around so you 
get six shells in the row and so you get a shell 
on the point of shoulder. Work the collar and 
front scallops to correspond. 



Baby's Sack 

Materi.vls. — Five ski-ins Saxony wool and r spool knitting silk, 
with hook to correspond; - yards ribbon i inch wide. 

Yoke. — Chain 88, ch i, turn, s c in each one of 
the 88 ch. 

2d ro'w — Chain i, s c in first 21 sts, taking up 
back thread of st to form rib. Widen on 22d and 
25th sts. Have 40 sts across back. Also widen on 
22d and 25th sts from other side. Widen every 
row, having first 4, then 6, 8, etc., across shoulders. 
Be careful to keep 22 in fronts. Work 16 rows. 

lyth roiv — Repeat i6th row until first point of 



yoke is reached, then ch 15, and fasten across to 
back point of yoke for arm-hole. This completes 
yoke. 

Skirt. — i.y; rozv — Chain 3, d c in second st of 
yoke, then d c across this into first st. This makes 
a cross. Work n crosses across each front, 8 
under arm, 20 across back. 

2d row — Repeat ist row, working crosses directly 
above those of last row. 

3rf roK' — Widen 3 crosses on front, 5 on back. 




Baby's Sack 

4th row — Repeat 2d row. 

5^/1 roiv — Widen 4 on fronts, 6 on back. 

6th roiv — No widening. 

yth rozi' — Widen 7 on fronts, 14 on back. 

8th roil.' — Widen 7 on fronts, 18 on back. 

Next 4 rows, no widening. Break wool. 

Fasten wool on right corner of neck, ch 3, d c in 
3d st of neck, ch i, long crochet in ne.Kt 3d st., etc., 
for beading. When left side of neck is reached, 
work shells of 5 d c all aromid sack: at corners of 
skirt, work shells of 10 d c. 

Sleeves. — Join at front point of yoke, work 
3 crosses, going into every st once, then 17, going 
into every st twice, then 6 like first 3, one cross 
above another under arm. 

Work 17 rows, counting the first, one cross 
above the other, then break wool. 

18//) row — On tliis row leave nfi 4 crosses on each 
side of seam. 

igfh row — On tills row leave off 3 at each end of 
iSth row. 

20//1 row — On this row leave off 3 on each end 
of igtli row. 

21 sV row — Crosses all around. 

22d ro7v — One cross above another for first 3, 
then one above two for every other one, except 
last 3 which are like first 3. 

For the beading work treble crochet between each 
space of 22d row. 

24'/t roiv — Crosses all around, i for each tr of 
23d row. 



46 



2c,th roiv — Repeat 24th row. 

26th rozv — Shells of 5 d c all around. 

This completes the wool part. 

Now with silk, and beginning at neck, ch 4. s c 
between two sts of shell, ch 4, s c again, etc., around 
sack. Without clipping the silk, pass to first rib 
of yoke, s c in top of st, ch 2, s c in next. When 
the end is reached, turn, and edge next rib the same 
way. All the ribs can be edged without breaking 
the silk. Finish the shells on the sleeves the same 
as those around the sack. Run ribbon through 
beading on sleeves, and tie in bow at back. Also 
run ribbon through beading at neck. This little 
garment will fit a baby under one year old. For 
a child over one year, ch 100 at beginning, then 
have 25 sts on each front, and 46 on back, with 2 
on each shoulder. 

Baby's Sack 

Materials. — Three skeins of Iilue and i nf pink tuu-fnld S.Txnny, 
a fine Ijone hook, and 4 yards of No. _■ jjiiik idilmii to m.iit h 
tile i>ink Sa.xony. 

Begin at the neck with a chain of 115 sts. Turn, 
and in the 3d st from the ho(ik work a s c and s c 
in each of next 2 ch, 3 s c in next st. * s c in next 7 
sts, 3 s c in next, and repeat from * 14 times. 3 s c. 

For next ro-K.'. — Chain 3. turn, s c in each of the 
first 4 s c, * 3 s c in ne.xt. 4 s c, skip I s c, 4 s c. and 
repeat from * across the row. Each succeeding row 
of the voke is worked the same as the 2(1 row, the 
3 s c for widening the point being put in the same 
place in each row. but omit skipping i s c between 
points. The voke has 16 points and is q ridges or 18 
rows deep. 



The body and sleeves of the sack are formed of 
rows of d c and stack stitch — one of d c and two 
of stack stitch, as seen in the illustration. Begin 
the body of the sack at the left corner of the yoke, 
inider the points in the 3d ridge, and work a d c 
in each stitch, working straight across the point 
and not following the ridge, the points thus lap- 
ping over the body of the sack. For the row 
I if stack stitch, turn, ch 3, ski[) 2 d c and work 
d c in each of the next 3 d c. then, without 
turning the hook, insert it in the first skipped d c, 
and work d c in each of the 2 d c that were 
skipped. This forms i stack. It will be seen that 
the last 2 d c cross over the first 3 d c. Repeat 
the stack 8 times, then turn, ch 3, and make a stack 
over a stack liack to front edge. Work another 
row of d c and 2 rows of stacks, then break the 
wool. Skip 30 d c fur the left sleeve, fasten wool 
and work stacks across the back (13 stacks), turn 
and make another stack row. then a row of d c. 
and two more stack rows, same as the front. Break 
wool, skip 30 d c for the right sleeve and work the 
right fnmt same as the left trunt. Turn, ch 3, 
d c in each st of front, ch 4 untler the arm, d c 
across the back, ch 4 under arm. d c across the left 
front. Alternate the 2 rows (if slacks and I of d c 
until the sack has 3 uKire dnuble rows of stacks 
and 2 of d c. 

Take up d c around the aniilmle for the sleeve 
tile 1i.h1\- lit the sack until 
ddul.le 
Then W(irk .1 niw uf 



an(J work same as fur 
4 niws of (1 c and 4 
worke 



rows (if stacks are 
! c with 1 ch between 



through whicli td run iberiblmn. [oin the pink wool 



ami make 



riiw (if lie.in st. '1 




Baby's S.\(;k 



work bean stitch 
piiMced .IS follows: Take up a 
st (111 the Imok, wool over and 
t.ike .iiKither s( in the same 
pl.K'e, wiKiI (iver and take an- 
ullier in the same place, thus 
making d sts i^m the hook, and 
ilraw' each out aliout 1-2 inch 
l(ing, take a st through the 6 
sts and fasten with a s c. This 
makes one bean. Work I bean 
in each of I ch. Join the blue 
and work the cuff of s c for 
8 rdws, then a row of holes 
f(ir the ribbon. Work the 
second sleeve same as the 
first. 

Join the wool to the upper 
corner of the left front and 
work a row of d c with 2 ch 
between all around the sack. 
Fasten the pink at the lower 
left corner and make a row 
of bean stitch across the 



47 



bottom, I bean in each 2 ch, with j ch between. 
With the l)hie work a shell of ( 2 d c. i ch, 2 d c) 
in each of the 2 ch of pink row. Work another 
row same as this one, shell in a shell. For the 3d 
row of the bor- 
der, work shell 
of 8 d c in the 
first shell be- 
neath, j o i n 
with s c in the 
next shell, and 
repeat a c ro s s 
the row. Work 
a row of shells 
across the neck. 
Finish the 
edges of the 
sack, the sleeves 
and the points 
of the yoke with 
a row of picots 
worked of the 
pink. A c r o s s 
the bottom let 
the pink chains 
extend up be- 
tween the scal- 
lops, as seen in 
the illustration. 
The work 
must be loosely done to make this stitch effective. 
Run the ribbon through the spaces, with bow'S on 
the sleeves, and ends to tie at the neck. 



end and catch in centre of 1st cluster with s c and 
ch 3; this will keep front edges even. Make sack 
19 rows deep. 
Sleeves. — Connrience one stitch from centre of 




Baby's Sack 

Materials. One skein of pink or blue tliree-fold Saxony, 3 
skeins of white two-fold Sa.xony. 3'j yards of nanow ribbon 
to match colored wool, jiart ...f a spool of crochet silk to 
match colored wool. 

Chain 136. Work one row of single crochet on 
the ch, turn. 

■2d rozv — Thirty-six s c. taking up back of stitch 
to form rib, work 2 sts in 37th and 40th sts, work 
to within 40 sts of end. increase one in 40th st and 
37th St from eiul, turn. 

Always remember to ch I at end of each row- 
in order to keep edge straight. Work back and 
forth in s c, increasing one in each of the widening 
points to form shoulder. W^ork 9 ribs or 18 rows. 
With white wool work 11 clusters of 4 double 
crochet across front, ch 3 inches, work iS clusters 
of 4 d c across back, ch 3 inches, work 1 1 clusters 
of 4 d c across other front, turn, ch i, catch into 
centre of ist cluster with s c, ch 3. work 3 d c in 
same st, work 4 d c in centre of each cluster across 
front, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across 
back, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch. work across 
front, turn. Always remember to ch i at each 



Baby's Sack 

shoulder and work 5 clusters of 4 d c across first 
half of shoulder, wnrk 7 clusters of 4 d c under 
arm. work 5 clusters of 4 d c across other half of 
shoulder, turn, work across sleeve back and forth 
for 15 rows. 

With color, commence at corner of right front, 
ch 4, work d c in 3d st, ch 2 and work d c in every 
3d St. This will form a row of holes for running 
the ribbon through. Work shell of 6 d c all around 
sack and sleeves. Finish with crochet silk to match 
colored wool, as follows: Chain 2 and with s c 
catch into every stitch of shell. To form revers, 
turn over fronts of sack the width of two clusters 
and sew down the length of sack. Turn over two 
clusters at bottom of sleeves and slope to one at 
top. Lace sleeves together with narrow ribbon, 
and make small Ijows at top and liottom of sleeves. 



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Bone Crochet-hooks, 10 cents each 
Wood Crochet-hooks, 10 cents each 



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lished in the magazine, we had several hundred letters telling why the writers liked Pfiiscii-La. 
The following are just a few sentences taken from different letters : 

'The Modkrn Pris<-ili,a piil>lisli(>>i dnuItU* tin- itniount of irooil tliiiiys tor half Uie pri;H* of any otiier gootl magazine." 

'I lilvt;THK Modern Prisch.i.a becaust- I like :\ bargain. I get more tliati my money's wortli." 

' I like The Modern Priscii.i.a for iN nsi'rulne>;s." 

'The Modern Priscilla gi\"i'.> more itiformatioit for less money than an\' other magazine pnblislied." 

'The Modern Priscill.i adtls to my usefulnes. and happiness as ;i keeper of the home." 

' 1 like The Modern Priscill.i for its helpfulness." 

' I never feel when I lay it down that 1 niisht have been doing something better worth while." 

These few sentences are a fair indication of the regard in which The Moueiin Priscili..\ 
is held by its subscribers and should convince any thoughtful woman that this is a magazine 
well worth becoming acquainted with. 

If \)ou happen to he already a Stihacriher, how about your Renewal? 

THE PRISCILLA PUBLISHING COMPANY 

85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass." 



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