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PriSGllla Publishing (o
BSston • Mass
WHEN you knit or crochet an
article yourself you want it
to be worth the effort you put into
it. Utopia Yarns insure satisfac-
tory work because of their superior
quality. They are made of a strong,
elastic staple having the necessary
length to insui'e durability. The
utmost care is given to the pro-
cesses of spinning and dyeing, and
each skein is finally rereeled by
hand, giving that additional lofti-
ness so much appreciated by every
user of yarns.
Hence Utopia Yarns are .soft,
lofty, elastic, strong, even of
thread, and permanent and uni-
form in color.
A trial of Utopia Yarn will con-
vince you of its merits.
Each skein bears the Utopia
The Utopia Yarn Book is the
most complete and practical Yarn
Book ever published. It covers the
entire subject of knitting and cro-
cheting thoroughly, and contains
absolutely reliable instructions for
the making of all articles.
Price, 25 cents, at all dealers
of Utopia Yiun, or send stamps
to the Manufacturers of Utopia
Yarns, No. 4.'57 Broome Street,
^risiciUa Crotljet poofe
A SELECTION OF USEFUL ARTICLES FROM
THE MODERN PRISCILLA
SEVERAL NEW DESIGNS
NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED
LOLA BURKS HETTICH
85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON, MASS.
Copyright, 1908, by The Priscilla Publishing Company
Tradt Mart Reg. U. S. Patent Office
All rights reserved
Iwo Copies Keceive.'
FEB 17 iy08
t<ASS.A XXo. .Ml.
j COPY e.
Articles for Women
Star Stitch 3
Knot Stitch 4
Staple Work 4
Square Shawl 4
Ladies' Petticoat 5
Neck Protector 6
Rainbow Scarf 6
Ladies' Hood in Staple Work 7
Cotton Skirt 8
Evening Cape 9
Ladies' Mittens 9
Knee Cap 10
Ripple Shawl 11
Auto Scarf 12
Ladies' Slippers 12
Auto Priscilla Hood 13
Ladies' Jacket 14
Ladies' Cape 16
Shawl .■ 17
Shawl in Staple ('rochet and Knot Stitch 18
Ladies' Shawl 18
Slumlier Slippers 19
Fascinator in Staple Work 2o
Circular Shawl 21
Silk Slippers 22
Golf Vest 24
Articles for Babies and Children
Brownie Hood 26
Carriage Afghan 27
Lifant's Band 28
Bed Socks 34
Bath Robe 36
Napoleon Hat 41
Napoleon Cap 42
Carriage Afghan 44
Articles for Women
Explanation of Stitches
Chain Stitch (ch st). Make a series of loop^. drawing each
loop through the preceding one.
Slip Stitch (si st). Insert the hook into the stitch, draw the
wool through tliat stitch and through the wool on hook at
the same time.
Single Crochet (s c). Insert tiie hook, draw wool through,
pass wool around hook (wool over), and draw it through
both loops on the hook.
Double Crochet (d c). Pass the wool around the Iiook, insert
the hook, draw wool through; pass the uortl around the
hook, and draw the wool through j loops, wool over, and
again through ^ loops.
Star stitch, when correctly made, is one of the best
and prettiest stitches in crocheting, being suitable for
almost every article crocheted of silk or wool where
a close stitch is wanted. It is one of the simplest
stitches in crochet and yet one of the hardest to
■ give directions for, as no two persons will make it
alike, and a little difference in the working of the
stars may necessitate the putting in or leaving out
of a number of extra stars in a row. The great-
jest difference is made in taking the stitclies off the
(hook, some pulling the stitches one way and some
another. It is advisable for any one working
jstar stitch for the first time to work a sample
strip of single zephyr. Crochet a ch of 24 sts.
Without throwing over the wool, skip the st
next to the hook and draw the wool through the 2d,
<eeping both sts on the hook. Take up the 3d, 4th,
ind 5th sts the same way, making 5 sts on the
look. These sts must be quite loose and must
)e the same length. Throw over the wool and
ake off all 5 sts together and finish the star
vith I ch to hold it together. Now put the hook
n the 1st st of the star going down the side, it
Il.\Li. I'-iuBLE Crochet ih d c). Pass the wool around the hook,
insert the hook, draw wool through; pass the wool around
the hook, and draw the wool through all 3 loops at once.
Long Crochet (1 c). Pass the wool around the hook, insert,
draw wool through; pass the wool around the hook, and
draw it through i loop, wool over, then through 2, wool
over, then again through j.
Treble Crochet (t c or tr c). Pass the wool around the hook
twice, insert the hook, draw the wool through; pass the
wool around the hook, <lraw through -• loojis, wool over,
again through 2 loops, wool over, tluii .'igain through 2.
being a short st and called the eye of the star,
draw the wool through, then through back tlireaa
of the next st iif the star, it being a long st ; then
take up the next 2 sts of the ch, making 5 sts as
before; draw the wool through all at once and work
the I ch to finish the star. Repeat until you have
ten stars. Croclut an e.xtra chain stitch and clip
the wool. 2d row — Draw the wool through ch st
at beginning of i st star, lie once. Chain 3, skip
1st and take u]) jd and 3d. Xow notice there is a
long and short st in the top of every star of the
1st row. Take up llie back thread of the long st
and lioth threads of the short st. There will now
be 5 sts on the Iiook. Proceed as before, working
a star over every star of the preceding row. Work
four or five rows in this way. Now notice if your
work at the ends is perfectly straight. If it slopes
at the end where the wool is clipped off, you will
have to work an extra star to keep it even, utitil
vou have learned how to take your sts off the hook
properlv. Don't forget this. It is generally caused
bv keeping (he ist st tight u|iiin the hook when it
should be loosest of all. There are two ways to
wide!) star stitch. First l]'ay. — b'dur sts only are
taken up, the short and long one down the side of
the preceding star and the fourth one in the short
st into which was put the last st of the preceding
star. Sometimes two extra stars are put in this
same stitch, and the term used is wi 2. Sccoini
IJ'ay. — Take up the short and long st down the
side of preceding star and the long st of star under-
neath, making 4 sts. Take ofT as before, inaking
one star. Now take up sliort and long st down side
and short st of st;ir underneath. This makes two
stars over one of preceding row, and the term
used is wi by 2 over i.
To Work St.\r Stitch in Circle. — Chain 4 on
which work i star of 4 sts. Proceed as for widen-
ing star stitch, working 7 stars of 4 sts each, the
4th st of all 7 stars being taken in same ch as the 4th
of 1st star. Join last star by si st to 1st.
Way of Wouking Star Stitch in Circli-;
2d roti'. — Work i star of 5 sts over ist star of
1st row, wi I star. Repeat around circle.
In tlie 2,d I'ozv widen every 2 stars and so on as
Work the foimdation chain as called for in the
directions for garment. Draw a loop out to about
one-half inch, draw thread through, thus forming
a long chain stitch, insert the hook in this long
chain, separating the loop first drawn out, from the
strand formed when thread was drawn through, and
work a s c, draw out another loop same length, draw
thread through, s c as before, skipping the required
number of stitches in foundation, s c in next.
This is a group of knot stitch; some crocheters
refer to it as knot stitch, and others to knot stitch
as just half the group. Repeat as many times as
directed. At end of row, work one group and a
half, turn, and s c on each side of the s c at centre,
or catch by s c into top of same, as some directions
Also called Hairpin Work and Maltese Crochet
Either buy or have made of good stiff wire, a
staple 6 inches long and the desired width between
prongs, a one and one-half inch staple being the
most desirable. Tie wool around open end and let
the finished work slip toward closed end of staple.
When the staple is full slip the work off and roll
up, tying it to staple to keep it from twisting, first
slipping back on the staple the last two loops on
Holding the staple so there
is a right and left prong, insert
the crochet-hook under the loop
on left prong and draw wool
through ch, which commences
the work. Slipping the hook
over the right prong, turn the
staple over toward you, wrap-
ping wool around the left prong
as you do so. This will make
the left prong now the right
one. The crochet-hook must al-
ways be inserted under the wool
on the left prong from the side
toward )'ou. Draw the wool
through as above, which gives
you two loops on the hook.
Take off as in single crochet.
In the old way of working toward the closed
end of staple, the hook had to be taken out each
time the staple was turned and inserted again.
In working toward the open end it is just slipped
over and is ready when the staple is turned. If a
heavier centre is desired insert the hook under the
left prong twice, making two single crochets.
Materials. — Four balk of ice wool. Medium-sized bone hook.
Chain eight stitches and join in ring.
1st row — Chain 5, work i s c in 2d ch, ch 5, I s c
in 4th ch, ch 5, I s c in 6th ch, ch 5, i s c in 8th.
2d rim' — Chain 5, i s c in ist of 5 ch just made,
ch 5, I s c in 1st group of previous row, ch 5, I s c
in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 3, I s c in next group of
1st row, ch 5, I s c in 1st of 5 ch just made, ch 5,
I s c in next group of ist row, ch 5, I s c in ist of
3 ch just made, ch 5, s c in last group. This forms
3d roii — Chain 5, i s c in 3d ch of 5 which forms
corner, ch 5, I s c in ist of 5 ch just made, ch 5, i
s c in 1st group of 2il row, ch 5, i s c in 3d of 5 ch
at corner, ch 5, s c in ist of ch just made, ch 5, I
Picgin the front gore with 42 ch, turn, and, be-
ginning in the 3d st from the hook, work a half-
(li)ulilc crochet ( h d c) in each cliain stitch. For
the jd row, ch 2. wnrk a h d c in base of the 2 ch,
tlien in every h d c of tlie 1st row.
The fallowing rows arc workeil the
same as the 2d row — the st in the
base of tlic 2 cli making the widen-
ing in each row. Skirt is 94 rows
For the side gore begin with 38
ch and proceed as in the front gore
e.\ce]it at the side which joins the
front. This side is ke[)t straight by
omitting the st in the base of the 2
ch. Work the same numl>er of rows
as in the front, then work the sec-
ond side gore same as the first.
For the back, cli 147. Work back
and forth the same as in the other
sections, omitting tlie widening on
tluis keeping both edges straight.
Work 6S rows clear across, then for the next 26
rows work ~2 back and fortli each side of the
Fasten the wool in the right corner of the
placket, and work a row of shells all around — ■
each shell of 4 d c, joined by a s c.
s c in 2d group, ch 5, I s c in 3d of 5 ch at corner,
ch 5, s c in 1st of ch ju?t made, ch 5, i s c in 3d
group in 2d row. ch 5, l s c in 3d of 3 ch at corner,
cli 5, I s c in ist lif ch just made. Work 36 rows
For ring border — * Chain 2, wind wool around
finger 12 times, in ring thus fiirnied work 2 s c. then
2 ch, 2 s c in 1st ch of 36th row. Repeat from *
all arotmd shawl.
Work 4 more rows of ch like 36th row, catching
the 1st of the 4 into rings with 2 s c.
Wnrk 2d row of rings like ist, then 4 more
rows of ch like 36th row.
Fur frini/i- — * Chain 14, s c in 2d st of 5 ch, ch
14. s c in 4th of 5 ch. * Repeat from * all around
Materials. — Twelve skuin-^ of Lream-wliilc Slictlaml floss, J
vanls of No. 4 rilitum, and a mclunn-si/ed Iione crochet-
This petticoat is made in four pieces — the front
gore, two side gores, and the straight back. The
work is done in half double stitch, made by throw-
ing wool over hook, taking a stitch through the
chain, then drawing wool through the 3 stitches on
the hook. Take the stitches through the back and
front ones beneath.
Join the gores by |)lacing the straight edges of
the side gores to the front, and the back joined
to the bias edges of the side gores. Use the slip-
stitch in joining the gores, being careful to have
the ribs match.
Begin at the left corner of tlio placket with ch
5, and work a row of t c with
1 ch between in every nhcr-
nate stitch of the top of the
skirt. This row is for the
The border is crocheted im
the lower edge of the skirt.
For the 1st row make a s c
in every stitch of the edge.
2d ro'di- — * Chain 5. skip 2
st, s c in next st, ch 3, skip i,
s c in next st, * repeat from
the * across the row.
Tfd row — Chain 2, * i d c in
ch 5 of 2d row, d c in next ch
5, (ch 2, d c) 3 times in the
same ch 5. Repeat from * to
end of the row.
4//1 row — * Chain 4, s c be-
tween the 1st and 2d d c of
the 4 d c beneath, ch 4, s c be-
tween the 3d and 4th d c of the same group" of d c.
Repeat from * to end of the row. Repeat the 3d
and 4th rows each 3 times.
Tlie last row is made of 6 d c with 2 ch between
into the 4 ch, fasten with s c into next 4 ch and
repeat to end of the row.
These directions make a skirt 29 inches long and
2 1-2 yards wide at the lower edge. By making
the skirt in gores there is no extra fulness around
the hips. This garment is aliout right for a 24-inch
waist, and may be increased or decreased at the
beginning of the gores.
Materials. — Four skeins of r,crmaiitowii, i skein Saxony, and
3 yards of No. 5 satin ril>bon.
Begin at the neck with a chain of 74 stitches,
turn, work s c in 3d st from the hook and in each
of the next * 9 chains, 2 s c in the loth st, and repeat
from * to end of the row. The 2 s c in every loth
st makes the widenings.
2d row — Chain I, turn, s c in each s c of the first
row, taking up both stitches.
2id ro'v — Chain 2, turn, and in each s c of the
second row work a i)ulT stitch as follows : Throw
wool over hook as for d c, take a st through the s c,
throw wool over again, take up another st in
same place, this makes 5 sts on the hook, then
draw wool through all the sts on the hook, -and
fasten by a s c.
4//1 rozi.' — Chain I. turn, s c in each of the first
9 puffs, 2 s c in the loth puff. Repeat to end of
the row, widening in every loth st as in the first
The 5//; and 6tli rows are repetitions of the 2d
and 3d rows.
The next 18 rows are repetitions of the first three
Fasten wool in the right corner of the neck, ch 3,
work d c in every alternate st of the neck with I
ch between the d c — this makes the spaces through
which the ribbon is run.
For the border fasten the wool at left corner of
the bottom (ch I, 2 d c. ch i, 2 d c, ch i, 2 d c, ch
I, 2 d c) between the 2d and 3d puffs, ch i, s c be-
tween the 4th and 5th puffs. Repeat the above
shells all around the protector.
2d row — Chain 2, 3 d c in the first ch i of the
shell, ch I, 3 d c in next ch i, ch i, 3 d c in next ch
I, ch 2, s c in the s c between tlie shells. Repeat
across the row.
Last rozv — Chain i, 3 d c in first ch i, fasten
with a s c in second d c of the first group, 3 d c in
the next ch I, s c in middle d c of the next group,
and repeat across the row. This makes a fluted
Run ribbon through tlie spaces at the neck, leav-
ing ends to tie. Fasten riblions in the middle of
the front and at the lower corners to tie.
This is very pretty and useful to wear under the
wrap as a protection for the neck and shoulders.
" ' • Rainbow Scarf
Either Saxony or floss may be used for this work,
about six skeins of white and half a skein of each
of the colors used being required. The stitch used
is original and is easv to do, fluffy in efifect, will
keep its shape well. Use a medium-sized bone hook
and work as follows :
Chain 68 sts of the white, ist rozv — Turn and
work back thus : Draw out st on hook to about 3-4
detail and continue increasing one star every row
between widenings until you widen every 8 stars
in 0'/' i'o-lc. In
of an inch, pass hook under the single thread of
wool, draw through st, pass it under wool, work
a si st, I ch (in this way you work first st of
every row). To make second st * pass hook
through second, draw up to three-fourths of an inch,
catch the wool and make 2 close ch ; repeat from *
to end of chain. Turn and repeat from first row
till you have worketl 76 rows in the white wool.
To make the rainhozv stripe — Fasten in the red
wool and work two rows, then, in the order named,
— orange, yellow, light green, dark green, indigo,
light blue, violet. Finish the end with two or more
rows of white.
To make the fringe — * Chain 35, fasten down in
ne.xt st with a si st ; repeat from * to end of row.
Finish both edges of the scarf with a row of knot
Ladies' Hood in Staple Work
The lining of this hood may be made of any
of the heavier wools and in any close stitch. In the
illustration it is made of Germantown. in star
stitch. Of this material it takes two skeins. Four-
fold zephyr would be softer and about as warm.
and five skeins would be required. The outside
is made of two-fold zephyr on an inch and a half
staple, and it takes two skeins. One ball of silk
will make the edge.
For the lining — Chain 5; work a row of 7 stars
of 4 loops each, and fasten in top of ist star by
slip stitch. 2d roTi'— Widen cverv other star as in
loZ/i rozv widen at centre top, and
3 rows around plain and then,
leaving off 6 stars at back, crochet
8 rows across front without widen-
mg. (See detail star st, page 3.)
For the outside, crochet a whole
skein on the staple. Cut off 60
li>ii])s. counting loops on one side
cinly. Draw a piece of wool
through loops on one side of strip
and tie tightly, which forms the
centre. Join 2d roie to this by
drawing 2 loo[)s of centre through
4 of strip, b'asten ends together
as neatly as possible. 31/ rojt' — •
Draw 3 of centre through 4 of
strip. 4th row — Draw 3 of cen-
tre through 3 of strip. These
four rows should run clear
around crown. The next three
should be joined to each other by
3 loops and also to centre, leav-
ing off 20 loops of centre at back.
Pin the outside in place over the lining. Crochet
the other skein up for frill and join to hood thus:
Chain 3. catch by s c first into hood then into 5
Ladies' Hood in Staple Work and Star Stitch
loops of strip, making it as full as desired. A
pretty finish is a strip of the staple work sewed
on where frill joins hood. An edge of silk
is then crocheted around the edge of frill and
around both sides of strip sewed on, by crocheting
chain 5 and catching in two loops of staple work.
In this design the strip sewed on above frill is made
on a smaller staple.
This skirt is for a 26-inch waist and 46-inch hip
measure. Use No. 8 tidy cotton and make a chain
to go around the hips. In this skirt it was ^jt, chain
which made 106 spaces.
1st rozv'. — .A. d c into the sixth ch from hook (2 ch,
a d c in 3d ch ) repeat until there are 106 spaces in
2d yo'u\ — Three ch to turn, then 3 d c in each space,
3J roil'. — Three ch, 2 d c in 2 d c (take up 1>oth
loops to make it strong), 3 ch, miss 3 d c, 3 d c in a
row. Repeat to the end.
4//i row. — Three d c on 3 d c and 3 ch between.
Repeat this row 20 times, which makes it long enough
for the placket.
Pin the ends over each other four spaces for the
placket and in the next row work through it at once,
this fastens, join on the beginning of the row. After
making the placket work five rows around the same
as before, only joining each time to the beginning of
1st roiv of flounce. — Bfegin with 9 d c in a row,
start from a solid block, if you do not end on one
then slip stitch to one. Chain 3 and 2 d c in the block,
3 in the space and 3 on the next block, the 3 ch on
the end counts as a d c ; a butterfly scallop in next
space made of 3 ch, now 5 d c in the space, but only
worked off to the last loop until the last is made, then
cotton over and draw all the loops together, 5 ch and
again 5 d c in the same space worked off the same
way as before, 3 ch and 9 d c in a row, three on the
blocks and three on the space ; 3 ch and pass over the
open space and begin from the beginning but without
the 3 ch. Repeat until you have 13 butterfly
scallop.s, join on the three chain.
2d row of flounce. — Slip stitch over one d c, 3 ch
and 6 d c on 6 d c and 3 d c on the 3 ch, making 10
d c with the 3 ch in a row. * Now a butterfly scallop in
the centre of the one below: 10 d c in a row, begin-
ning with three under the 3 ch and 7 d c on 7 d c, I
ch, nu'ss 2 d c, I d c in the space, I ch, miss 2 d c on
other side, now 10 d c in a row and repeat from * all
around. Join on the 3 ch.
^d roiv of flounce. — Same as the second row except
only missing I d c on each side of the indent, so
that it makes 12 d c in a row on each side of the but-
terfly scallop, and a d c on the d c in the indent. Re-
peat this row seven times more. Of course the d c in-
crease in number each row.
////; row. — No increasing is done after this. Work
as before but miss 3 d c on both sides of the indent.
Work 7 rows like it.
Scullofs in the indents between points. — Fasten
cotton in the 4th d c on right side of indent; ch 3,
a scallrip of 6 d c in the d c between points, 3 ch, a
slip-stitch in opposite 4th d c.
2d row. — Slip stitch up 4 d c, turn, 3 ch, 3 d c
under 3 ch, one d c on each of 6 d c, 3 d c under 3 ch,
3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c on point.
j;d row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under
3 ch, (3 ch, 3 d c on 3 d c), three times more; 3 ch,
3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch on 4th d c of point.
41I1 row. — Slip stitch up 3 d c, 3 ch, 3 d c under
3 ch, (now 3 ch and 3 d c over each 3 d c) four
times in this row; 3 ch, 3 d c under 3 ch, slip stitch
in 4th d c on point.
Repeat this 4th row five times more which will fill
the indent between points. The last should be fast-
ened right in the centre of the butterflies. Without
lireaking the cotton slip stitch down the side of the
point to the last 4th d c and repeat from the begin-
Border the scallops with butterfly scallops made
Fasten cotton on centre of a point, ch 3, 5 d c
worked off to the last loop until List is made then
draw cotton through all the loops, make in first 3 ch
space, 4 ch, and again a wing of 5 d c in same place,
3 ch and a slip stitch on the centre of 3 d c. Repeat
this for each space of scallops all around.
Materials. — Thirty-two skeins Shetland floss, in yards satin
ribbon No. 3 for the yoke, 3 yards satin riblion No. 40 for
ties, and a lining of China sill;.
Band. — INIake a ch of 84 sts, I d c in 3th ch. ch i,
I d c ill 9th cli, so on till end of ch is readied.
^(f roze. — Chain 5. i d c in d c, ch i, i d c in next d
c, finish the row.
jrf, 4th, and fith like -'</ roiv'.
Yoke. — Chain 5, i d c in d c of preceding row,
ch I, I d c in same d c, ch I, i d c in next d c, so on
till 12th d c is reached, * ch I, I d c in next d c, ch I,
I d c in same d c, repeat from * to end of row.
2d, _?(/, 4th, stit, 6th, •/th, 8th, same as preceding
row ; always widen in the widening.
gth rozv. — One s c in every st.
Cape. — Chain 5. 2 d c in first s c, ch I, 2 d c in
same s c, 2 d c in 3d s c. ch i, 2 d c in same s c, 2
d c in 5th s c, ch I, 2 d c in same s c. finish the row.
I\Iake 9 rows like preceding row.
nth roiv. — Chain 5, 3 d c in ch, ch i, 3 d c in same,
3 d c in next ch, ch I, 3 d c in same, finish the row.
Make 29 rows like preceding row.
Flounce. — Chain 5, 3 d c in ch, ch I, 3 d c in same.
3 d c between shells in preceding row, ch I, 3 d c in
same place, 3 d c in next ch, ch i, 3 d c in same.
^^'ork six rows.
yth row. — Twelve tr c in each shell.
Ruff. — In third row of collar band make nine
rosettes, putting 36 tr c in each rosette. Finish all the
edges of the cape with a chain of seven.
MATtRiALS. — Three ounces of twu-plj' zephyi.
Chain 71 sts and join; make 34 stars on this
chain ; work 8 rows of stars. .\t the beginning of
the 9th row widen by working two stars over one,
widen also the next star ; widen every other row.
This makes the thumb, and there ought to be 12
stars, when you widen the 5th row, including
the 10 that are widened. Crochet another row
after the 5 rows widened. Now drop off the
12 stars for the thumb and chain 8 sts, and
join to the 13th star. The chain sts must be
picked up the next row. There ought to be 34
stars around the mitten, and if too many, narrow
at the thumb by taking two stars in one, crochet
14 rows and narrow. Narrow two stars in one,
crochet 2 stars between, narrowing all around the
glove, crochet two rows, crochet i, narrow I all
around, crochet I row, narrow two stars in one
until only 8 stars remain, draw wool through last
stitch. Break wool, leaving enough to close with
sewing needle. Pick up stitches at thumb and nar-
row to 14 stars. Crochet 9 rows and narrow two
stars in one until there are only 6 stars, finish as
lie fore. Crochet a shell scallop at the wrist.
Materials. — One pound 6 ounces of three-ply wool, 3 yards
of white ribbon J4 inch wide, bone crochet-hook.
Chain 108; that is enough for 35 groups, with
2 ch between each group and 3 ch to turn around.
1st roiv — A group consists of * 3 d c, 2 ch, i s c.
Miss 2 ch, and repeat from * till there are 35 groups
in the row.
2d roiv — Turn around with 3 ch, which you count
as I d c in this group. You always put the group
between the s c and first d c of the group in
Continue till there are 184 rows, which make
60 inches. It takes two rows to make one edge
Work this pattern all around the nightin-
gale three times.
i.y/ roil' — Plain.
2d rozv — Increase at the four corners by work-
ing one extra group each side of the centre group.
3rf row — Plain.
Then turn back and work the same pattern
around the opposite way three times.
4th roil' — Increase at the four corners. '
5//; rozv — The same way ; no increase.
6th rozv — The same way ; increasing at the
To M.\KE Up. — Double the work end to end,
and nine inches from each side of the middle front
edge join together to form the fold at the back;
ten inches farther down each front edge put some
ribbon to tie the fronts together round the neck.
Put two pieces of ribbon about five inches below
this, and two more at the bottom of front edges.
Cuffs. — Take two back corners; turn the points
back five inches and tie the two points or corners
thus formed together with ribbon.
Materials. — Number g crochet-hook and 3 full ounces of four-
Work 42 chain rather easily.
I.S/ rozv — Miss i ch and work 41 s c.
2d rozv — One ch to turn, s c in back loop of each
st in previous row, 41 in all. Repeat the 2d row
till six rows in all are done.
/til rozi' — One ch to turn, s c as usual in each
of 20 sts, 3 s c in the front part of the next st, that
is the front instead of the back, 20 s c to finish the
row as usual.
Now go on in this fashion, making a ch to
begin, and the 20 s c each in the back of the st
below. Then for the middle part, always working
on the front part of the st, and putting 3 sts in the
middle st every other row, and 20 s c on the other
side of centre until there are 21 rows of the middle
work ; then work 6 rows without increase, but in
the same style. There should be 20 ridged, 21
plain, and 20 ridged in each of the six rows. Now
decrease a st in every row, by missing it altogether,
Crochet Knee Cap
or draw the wool through first one st and then the
other, and then work the three loops on the hook
off as if they were one st. Repeat until you are
down to 41 sts again, when you work six plain rows
as at the beginning, or until the cap is large enough.
Sew or crochet the two edges together.
Note. — To make the cap smaller, either do fewer
rows in the increasing part or underneath, or use
a slightly smaller hook. To make it larger, do one
or two extra plain rows. Practically the same re-
sult of cap with less trouble will be attained by
working in ridged crochet all along and increasing
by putting 2 sts in the middle of every row instead
of 3 sts in every other row, until the 6i sts are
gained, while six ridged rows without increase
must be worked. The decreasing is done by taking
2 sts together everv row in the centre, keeping the
ridged crochet as usual all the time.
The shawl illustrated is a new pattern, com-
posed almost entirely of knot-stitch. While the
stitch should be made rather loosely, the knot should
be drawn tightly to give the work the much desired
fluffy effect. A shawl made in this stitch is sure
to keep its shape, for unlike the very open shell
work, it cannot sag.
This shawl will require 9 skeins of white and 2
of colored Shetland floss. The shawl measures 25
inches from the neck to edge, with a sweep of 26
feet. If a deeper shawl is desired, make more
rounds before putting on the border.
Use a medium-sized bone hook, and work as fol-
lows : Chain 5 and join.
1st row — Work 12 d c in ring.
2d rozi.' — Work 12 double knot stitches in the
12 d c of last row.
3J (;;/(/ 4//; rows — Plain (catching k st into k
St in usual way).
5//; rozu — Chain 2, make double k st, fasten in
next st, * 2 plain, i d c between the ne.xt 2 k sts,
repeat from * all the way around.
You will notice that the 2 ch and the 3 d c sts
make 4 widenings in this row; repeat the above
row, always making 2 ch at the beginning of a
row and 3 d c in 3 d c of last row, till there are
40 k sts, or 10 sts between widenings. In the next
row begin to widen iS times in a row, make 2
ch, then 5 double k sts, then widen between the 5th
and 6th st ; repeat all way around.
Repeat the above row till there are 22 sts be-
tween widenings. In the next row begin to widen
16 times in a row. Widen in usual way. Work
II k sts, and widen lietween nth and 12th sts; re-
peat all way around. Repeat this last row till the
sliawl is the desired depth. Fasten in the colored
wool, and begin the border thus; Make 8 ch and
fasten back in the 3d ch witli a si st, 3 ch, and
fasten to the next k with si st ; repeat all the way
around. In widening in this row do so by making
2 of these sts in one k st. This to be done 16 times,
midway between widenings of previous rows.
After finishing row. tie and clip wool. Fasten
wool to a picot of last row. Make 9 ch (this to
widen), fasten back in 4th ch with si st, 4 ch, fasten
to ne.xt st with si st. Repeat all the way around ;
tie and clip wool. Fasten white wool to a picot.
Now make the k sts the length of a ch st longer
than those you made in the body of shawl (this to
widen). Work the next three rows plain. In
the 3th row widen 16 times in the usual way, only
let the widenings come midway between those in
jirevious rows. Make I or 2 more rows plain,
and begin the scallop edge thus; * Make I k st, ch
5. fasten back in k with si st, make i k st, and
fasten down in the usual way. Now make 2 double
k sts, and fasten down in the usual way, and repeat
from * all the wav around. This will alternate I
picot and 2 plain k sts all the way around. Tie and
clip wool, b'asten wool to a k st to left of a picot. *
make a double k st, then 12 t c in the picot, with I
ch between t c, and fasten down to k with si st ;
repeat from * all the way around. Tie and clip
wool. Fasten wool to k between shells. * Work
a k st like those in border, fasten to first t c of
shell with si st, make 2 short k sts, fasten to next
t c ; repeat all the way around shell. There should
be 9 double k sts in all. Work i long k st and
fasten to k between shells, and repeat from * all
the wav around. Tie and clip wool. Fasten colored
wool to a k between shells, and work around shell
in short k sts.
The k sts in bodv of shawl are about three-
quarters of an inch long. If desired, they might be
inaile one inch long from the directions given.
Materials. — Seven
sized bone hook.
skeins two-fold Saxonv,
Begin with a chain of Sy stitches. Turn and
work a d c in the 5th st from the hook, d c in the
next ch, then go hack and work a d c in the cii st
hefore the first 2 d c, skip i ch, 2 d c, then d c back
in the skipped stitch. Repeat to the end of the
row, making 29 groups of d c. Turn and ch 3,
and work a group over a group. Repeat this row
until the scarf is the desired length. Crochet a
row of shells across the sides — each of 3 d c into
each row of the scarf.
Cut the fringe into 20-inch lengths. Tie 3 strands
into each group of d c and also between the groups.
Knot 3 times, as seen in the illustration, beginning
with 2 groups tied. Trim ends of the fringe to
make it even.
This scarf measures 2 yards in length and 15
inches in width.
Materials. — Two skeins dark four-ply wool, 2 skeins light,
and short crochet-hook to corresi)ond.
These slippers are small 4's in size and are
worked in a stitch that exactly resembles double
knitting, and both sides being alike and the work
solid and durable, it is admirably adapted for slip-
pers, boots, afghans, etc.
Begin with the darkest shade; work a ch of 14.
On this work a row of s c ; at the end ch i, turn.
2d row — One d c in the first st, taking up both
edges of the loop; * i ch, miss i, i d c in the next;
repeat from*. Always work a ch at the end of the
row. Increase a stitch in beginning each row.
3rf roti.' — One d c at the edge, I ch ; work a d c in
the s c under the I ch st, in the first row, putting
the hook right through the two sides of the st, I ch,
a d c in the st under the next ch.
4?/( ;uri' — The lightest shade, work in exactly the
same manner, taking up the d c st of the second
5?/i, 6tli ami jlli rows — The darkest shade, so
making the darkest shade work into the lightest,
and vice versa, but always 3 rows of dark.
When you have 21 sts, counting from the first
row on your work, divide for the sides. Increase
in the first and third rows only on the outside, and
decrease in the same rows on the inside; work 10
d c on each side, and 21 double rows; work a row
less or more if necessary for any given size.
Knit Frill for the Edge. — Cast on 6 stitches.
1st roii' — The needle into the st; wind the wool
twice round the left needle, and over the first finger
of that hand ; knit the st then as usual. Knit back
the row plain.
Knit 2 looped rows of the dark shade, i loop row
of the light shade alternately, until you have enough
to sew round the edge of the slipper.
Auto Priscilla Hood
Materials. — About j full ounces by weight of solid color ana
nearly j ounces of trimming color for front; 3 yards of 3'i-
inch ribbon (satin is prettiest) for strings. Black and cream,
brown and cream, lirown and pink, or any preferred com-
bination, can be useil. Rather a fine hook, about Xo. Ij
or 13, to make each shell nearly or quite ,'i inch square.
Take the crown color and chain 9 on wliich work
3 stars. Now work around and around, widening 3
stars at end, working one opposite each of the
3 on other side the chain, then 5 across the end,
keeping the stars along the centre even with the
Auto Pkiscilla Hood
stars already in the centre as much as possible.
and so go on, around and around, increasing finally
where needful till the work is about 7 inches across
the narrowest measurement, that is, from side to
side. Xow work 5 rows in s c, increasing where
needful to keep the w-ork flat. Then two rows of
star St. Then work two more rows of s c, but do
not increase: one of d c; one of s c; one of d c;
and now you begin to decrease.
1st row decrease — Work the row in s c, tak-
ing every 8th and 9th sts together,
2d row decrease — Double crochet, taking two
together over every decrease in row below.
3(i ro'dj decrease — * Work 9 sts in s c then
miss 3 sts, and repeat from *.
^th row decrease — * Work 15 sts, miss 3 sts,
and repeat from * all around. Any time the num-
ber of sts does not come out even it docs not mat-
ter. Break off the wool.
You now work several rows to make the front a
little deeper than the back. Mark the exact front,
and also the back, with a piece of colored wool or
cotton. Begin about a third of the way past the
middle of the back, and work a s c in each st.
For second slmrt row begin abtiut half way be-
tween the front and back, or a trifle nearer the
front ; measure your work and if it is more than 22
or perhaps 23 inches whole width, 11 or 11 1-2
inches in the half width, which it probably will be,
decrease at regular intervals, but be particular to
take the decreasings exactly over the decreases pre-
viously made at the front, so that the front may
look fuller than the back. If you do not get it
decreased sufficiently in one row, work another the
same way, but begin it within a few inches of the
front, and end at the same point at the other side.
The idea is to get the front of the crown fuller and
longer at the front than at the back. Break off the
Front of IIood. — Use the wool selected for the
front. Make an easy chain, which wlien closed in
a circle will be as large as tlie circle of the crown.
Count and put a measure in the exact half of this
circle: work on this chain in s c till you come to
the marked spot : put 2 sts in that spot, finish the
rows as usual and join. Work five more rows
in this wav, keeping the mark in place and always
increasing a st as near middle of front as possible,
[oin the beginning and end of each row at the
finish. Mark the end of last row.
\st shaping row — Slip st over about 8 sts then
make 2 loose ch. and make a d c in next and con-
tinue till you have a d c in each of 10 sts: then s c
through the 2 top loops as usual of every st till you
come to the i8th st from the middle mark at the
fiack: tliis will be the 26th st from where you began
the row. Work 10 d c to match tbd^e at beginning.
2d shaping row at front — Make 2 ch, work the
first 3 sts together as I st : then work 13 d c, al-
ways taking up both top loops, go on with s c till
there are iS sts left on other side: then work 15 d c
and take the last 3 sts as one st.
3rf vow — Take the first 3 sts together: work 20
d c, 3 s c and si st : break off the wool: work the
other side the same way. You may liegin at the
end of row.
4//; rozv — \\'ork in the same maimer, but only
work 10 d c instead of 20.
^th row — Fasten on as usual, taking 3 sts as one,
work 20 d c ; work in s c across till there are 23 sts
left ; finish the row as you began it.
6lh roiv — Begin as usual, work 25 d c ; 3 s c, i si st
and break off, drawing the wool through the st, to
fasten it. Do the other side the same way.
yfli row — Begin as usual, taking 3 together, work
25 d c, work in s c till you have 28 sts left. Work
25 d c, then take 3 together.
Note. — In working over the ends of the short
rows, it may lie found well to work ciuitc over
them into the row Ix-low. It d.ies not matter so
that they are neat.
Front Turnovek. — Work evenly in star st all
across the row just done, allowing 2 sts lo every
Return rozv—Work 2 s c over every star in
the return row. In working the s c in the return
row, it is as well to only take the front loop of the
star in I st and put the other into the hole in the
centre of star. It looks a little better on the right
side. Work this star row and s c return row till
you have altogether 9 rows of star stitch with a
row of s c between. Break off and fasten in the
end of wool at the end of the star stitch row with-
out working the row of s c ; run in the end.
Put the front and crown together, seeing that
the middle mark of front crown part is to the
middle mark of front part, and that they are also
even at the back; also be careful to so arrange them
that the turnover will tin-n over and show on the
right side of cap. If there is any spare fulness put
it towards the front, near the top. Crochet them
together, on the wrong side; if, when finished, the
crown seems likely to be too large, run in a double
strand of wool and tie to size.
Then crochet a tiny flat scallop of 3 d c to a scal-
lop with a s c between scallops, and arranged so
that they are neither full nor tight. In the model
a s c was in the centre of one star, the 3 d c in
the centre of the next, a s c in the centre of the
ne.xt, and so on. Around the back they were ar-
ranged to suit. Remember the back of the hood
nnist have the final row put so that it is right side
out, and you must begin again to have the final
row of front, right side out.
Draw in all ends, and arrange ' ribbon. In the
model about 26 inches were marked off, a single
tie made in the middle of it, and it was arranged
along the back, and the remainder cut off. This
remainder was cut into two strings which were
arranged with a single bow, fastened at the junc-
tion of crown and front, and brought down across
the ends of the back ribbon, and fastened.
Xofc. — The front of the cap can be put back, or
forward, however, and the strings arranged ac-
cordingly. For cold trips it would be better if
made to fit snugly.
For wearing under a raincoat this tight-fitting
jacket is most desirable. The special points to
which I wish to call your attention are — the ab-
sence of plaits and belt, the collarless effect at
throat, the tight-fitting back, and absence of under-
arm scams. A medium-weight yarn and a firm,
tight stitch, and small bone hook, are the most
desirable in making a shaped jacket, as a loose,
llimsy stitch would make a practically shapeless
garment. For that reason crazy-stitch and Shet-
land floss were selected. The body color is light
gray with red trimmings.
Alaterials used: One box light gray Shetland
lloss and one skein of red. The garment measures
as follows when completed, holding the work slack
as measured. If stretched out it would measure
several inches more in width, but not a material
difference in length. Waist — 27 inches. Hips —
32 inches. Bust — 36 inches. Back — 17 inches
long; 13 inches wide between shoulders. Shoulder
scam — 5 inches. Front — 14 inches long from neck,
and 9 inches wide through the fulness. Sleeve —
22 inches length of top arm, 16 inches under arm,
17 inches at widest point, and 8 1-2 inches at
wrist. Having these dimensions given it will be
easy for any one to measure herself and make
changes in the work to correspond. Remembering
that the work will stretch several inches in width,
it will therefore fit a ^j or 38 bust, but will not
stretch in length.
Commencing at the waist line, chain 219 worked
tight, turn and work 3 d c in ch 4 from the hook;
skip 3 ch sts and s c into ch 4. ch 2, 3 d c into ch
where s c was made. Skip 3 ch sts and s c into
ch 4; repeat until you have 54 groups. Chain 3,
turn and work 3 d c into s c of last row where ch
3 seems to start from, catch by s c into top of ne.xt
group and ch 2, make 3 d c into the opening made
between ch 2 and the 3 d c of group; catch by s c
into top of next group and repeat to end of row.
Work 4 rows without widening, turn and work 15
groups on 5th row; widen in i6th group by work-
ing d shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, into opening where
you iiave been making the ordinary groups. This
is the method by which crazy-stitch is widened,
and is to be followed when directions say widen.
After widening, work ^^ groups, widen, 15 groups.
This widening divides the jacket into fronts and
back. Widen under arm every 4th row; that is,
work 3 rows without widening, then widen in 4th
row, being particular to keep places of widening
right over each other. Widen 5 times under each
arm (widening every 4th row). When you come
to the 13th row, work 5 groups from outside edge,
widen in 6th, 5 groups, widen in 6th, 7 groups,
widen under arm. work across back, widen under
arm, 7 groups, widen in ne.xt, 5 groups, widen, 5
groups, which brings you to front edge if your
work has been done correctly. The 14th row is
plain clear across. Widen at points in front on
15th row, working 6 groups, widen, 6 groups, widen.
This ends the widening in fronts. After the widen-
ing under arm in 21st row, work 9 rows across
plain. Turn and work 10 rows of 18 groups each
across one front; on iith row widen at armhole ;
I2th row plain. We are now C(_)unting the rows
from 1st short row. In the 13th row the narrow-
ing begins. Work 9 groups from front edge, when
catching down 9th group, catch into top of 2 grou|)s
underneath at once and work a s c, 4 groups, and
catch as before into top of ne.xt 2 groups by
ISC, making the i s c connect both groups, work
4 groups to armhole. Narrow again in 4th row,
which will be the 17th row, at both points. In 5th
row from other widening at armhole, widen again.
When you have worked 50 rows, counting from
base line, drop out 4 groups at front edge for neck.
Now, beginning with this short row to count.
2d row — Turn and work back to armhole, widen
3(/ rozi' — Turn and work back to neck.
4tli row — Chain 3, and instead of working group
in s c, catch Ijy s c into top of group where next
group is to be made, thus dropping off the I group
at edge of neck. Work back to armhole.
5//; and 6th rozi's are plain.
Jilt row — Leave off i group at shoulder seam,
8//( rozi.1 — Leave off' i group, at beginning of row
at neck, working 8 groups back to shoulder seam.
gill rozv — Turn and tie wool in 2d group, work 6
groups to neck.
JO//; rozv — Turn and work 4 groups, break wool.
1 1 '/; row — Two groups at neck point. When you
l;ave finished one front work the other in the same
manner, leaving off groups at neck and armholes
to correspond to first side made.
The back is then worked as follows: Tie wool
in top of 4th group from front at armhole, working
across to other armhole, leaving off 3 groups
there also. Chain 3. turn and leave off ist group,
wurk to end of row, turn, and leaving off ist group
work to end of row, leaving off last group. The
same is done at ends of next row, when your back
should be 26 groups wide. Work 2^ plain rows,
widen at each end of 24th; 25th row is plain.
Leave off one grou]) at shoulder seam every 3
rows until only 8 groups are left. This finishes the
body of the jacket. The skirt is made by working
13 rows of crazy-stitch in gray, widening in 3d row
at two points, front and back of hips, thus: Widen
in the loth group from the front edge, and in the
loth group from that, working across skirt to 20th
group from other front, widen in the 20th group.
Work 9 groups and widen in loth, work 9 groups,
which should bring you to front edge.
The sleeve is begun at the top with the gray wool.
Chain 52, on which make 13 groups; ch 3, turn and
widen at beginning and end uf row. Widen at each
end of 4th, 7th, 9th, I2th, 14th, 17th, 19th, 22d, and
24th rows ; work 25th row plain, which brings the
work to the under-arm extension. It is now 16
inches across and 6 r-2 inches deep. Chain 11,
turn and work 2 groups on the chain just made,
which brings you to the row of groups, work across
this and at end of row ch 11. turn and proceed as
liefore. Work 6 rows across plain, then decrease
one at end of next row. Counting the row just
made as one, work 6 rows without decreasing,
then turn and leave off r group at each end.
Counting this last row, wDrk 6 rows again, then
narrow and work rows more, narrow and work
6 rows more. Then narrow and work 4 rows,
always counting the row as one in which you leave
oft' the groups at ends. Work 3 groups of 4 rows
each. So continue to leave off i group at each end
until you have only 16 groups. Work 5 rows of
1 8 groups, which sliould complete 75 rows. Tie in
ihe red wool and work 8 rows red, then 4 rows
gray, i row red.
The sleeves now being finished, sew up the seam
on the wrong side, fitting the jagged edges into
each other, which if done carefully will make a
perfectly flat seam. The shoulder seams should
be joined in like manner. The sleeves are to be
sewed in i:)v joining under-arm poiiUs and sewing
without any fulness until at point at top, where
all the fulness should be gathered into about 5
To give the jacket a double-breasted effect, tie
in the gray at lowest point of front on one side,
and at the neck on the other, to make the row
wrong side out ; work row of groups to other end
of front, turn and work a row of groups to waist
line, turn and work a row, leaving otf last 2 groups,
turn and work to end of row, leaving off 2 groups,
continue until you have 7 rows, leaving off 2
groups at end of each row. The 7th row will have
about 16 groups. Around the whole jacket now
work a row of red.
If it is desired a loose straight front may be
made by changing the row in which the widening is
done in the front. Instead of widening in the
13th and 14th rows, widen in the 2d and 3d rows,
which throws the fulness lower down, leaving out
the widening in the 13th and 14th rows, and cro-
cheting the front plain until directions say narrow.
Materials. — Eleven skeins of lavender Shetland floss, 7 yards
of ribbon, and a medium-sized bone crochet-hook.
The yoke is made first. It is formed of six sec-
tions joined. For one section begin with a chain of
15, turn and make 14 half-doubles (h d c) on the ch.
Work 27, rows of h d c for one section, widening i st
in each row by working a stitch in the base of the 3 ch
at the beginning of each row. Take up the sts at
the back. Make six of the sections and join by
chaining 6, fasten by single crochet to the corner
of a section, ch 6, fasten in second section, and
continue the ch 6 back and forth until the sections
are joined. Fasten wool at the front corner of the
yoke at lower edge, ch 3, skip 2 sts, in the next st
work a shell of 2 d c, ch 2. 2 d c, and repeat the
shells in every 3(1 st across the front section. On
the shoulder sections work a shell in every alternate
st and in the back sections in every 3d st. For the
next row ch 3, turn, and work a shell in a shell
across the yoke. Repeat this row until the cape is
2/ rows deep. If the neck seems large, work a
row of s c quite tight to draw it in. Work a row of
treble crochet with 2 ch between, all around the
cape through which to run the ribbon.
For the border, begin at the lower corner and
work a row of shells of 6 t c each and fasten by
s c between, across the bottom. Work another row
of shells, placing a shell in the middle of the shell
beneath, and d c in each s c between the shells.
The ne.xt row is of shells, each having 8 t c and s c
lietwcen, and is worked all around the cape. Finish
the edge with chains of 3 fastened into every stitch
of the last shell row. Run the ribbon through the
open spaces of the yoke, ending each strip with a
loop and end. Also run the ribbon through the
spaces around the cape, and through the neck
spaces, leaving the ends long enough to tie.
Materials. — Fourteen or fifteen skeins of Shetland floss for a
shawl I'j yards square. Mcdiinn-sizetl bone crochet-hook.
1st ro7i.' — One short ch st, * i long ch st made
bv drawings out the st on the hook untd it is about
Detail of Sh.wvi,
1-2 inch long before drawing the wool through
it. I .short ch st, s c back into the short ch st at be-
ginning. * Repeat from * to * twice more; then
1 long ch St. I d c into same st with the 3 s c. Make
this d c rather loosely, so that it will equal in
length the long" ch st. These four ])oints are the
beginning of the four corners of the shawl.
2ii ro7i< — One long ch st, d c of eiiual length
back into the to;) of the d c made at end of first
row. It is important that the hook be inserted
in e.xacth' the same place each time at this corner
of the work, so that the corner where each row
is commenced will look as nearly like the others
as possible. Insert it straight through the st at
top of d c with two threads 111 front of the hook. *
Now make i d c forward into top of ne.xt point.
At these points l)e careful to have the hook placed
under the two iipf^cr threads nf the sliort eh st.
that is, the two that come IhroiKjli the long ch st
leaving the one that was drawn through in work-
ing the short ch st. bclmc the hook. This keeps
the loug ch sts at corners turneil ll.'it throiighdut
the work, making them look more nearly like the
other part of the work than thev would do if the
hook were inserted straight through the short st
from front to back, instead of under it as described.
After working d c work i long ch st, s c in same
st with d c. Now widen at corner by working I
long ch St. I short ch st, i long ch st. s c in same
st with last s c ; I long ch st. d c l.iack into st with
s c, * repeat from * to * twice more ; d c forward
into last corner, inserting hook in same place
where it was inserted in making the first d c of
this row. I long eh st. d c in same place.
3(y ro'a' — .Same as 2d. making two points be-
tween the corners instead of one as in 2d row.
and widening at each corner same as in last row.
Be careful to tiiake the long ch sts and d c of
equal length. Each row is now made in same
way, increasing one point on each side between the
corners. There will be one point between corners
of 2d row. 2 points in 3d row. 3 in 4th row- and so
DoRiiER. — When shawd is as large as desired,
make border as follows :
\st rozv — Three ch, s c in centre of point, 3 ch,
s c in next point, repeat.
2d rozv — Two d c made bv working off first until
there are two threads left on honk, then work the
other d c, working off 2 threads at a time until all
are worked off. This closes the 2 d c into I st at
top; I ch, 2 d c worked as before, knot stitch made
by drawing out the stitch on hook nearly 1-2
inch in length, then working a s c between the st
and the wool just drawn througli it, repeat, work-
ing a shell in each s c, and working 3 clusters of
d c in shells on corners. Work 5 rows of shells,
widening- sutificiently at corners.
For shells on edge work 6 long, loose d c with
1 ch between each, ch i, s c in next shell, ch I, re-
peat in next shell and around shawl, working scal-
lop in every alternate shell.
For edge — Chain 2 loosely, s c under first i ch
of scallop, ch 2, s c in next i ch, repeat. After last
Corner of Shawl in Staple Crochet and K\ot Stitch
s c, which should be under the ch just before the
s c in shell between scallops, s c under next I ch
before beginning loops around next scallop.
piece of staple work, put hook through first 5 loops,
fasten with s c, single k s, fasten in next k s, in'
row with s c, single k s, take next 5 loops in lace,
fasten with s c, repeat across strip. All the pieces of
lace are crocheted together the same way and at the
ends should there be a loop too many or not quite
enough take up more or not so many, as the case
may be; it will not be noticed when finished and
The border requires two strips of lace long enough
to go twice around the shawl
and is made as follows:
Crochet four rows of k s all
around shawl, taking up 5 loops
on the lace and keeping as
near as you can to the same
distance between stitches
across the ends of the first row
around, always widening at
the corners (so that the work
will be kept flat and not draw)
by adding more k s and taking
from 6 to 8 loops in the lace.
jZ/j rozv in border. — Work
a single k s, fasten to lace by
taking up 3 loops, fasten with
s c, * single k s, fasten in bor-
der, k s with s c, single k s,
take 3 loops, fasten with s c *
repeat around widening at cor-
6th rotv. — Fasten wool in 5
loops on border, work single
k s, fasten with s c in 3 loops of
lace, work single k s, take 5
loops in border, single k s, 5
loops in lace : repeat around
jtli roii.'. — One row k s all
8tli ro'cv. — One s c in k s be-
tween loops, work a shell
s, between next two loops consisting of
long tr with 3 ch between each tr fastened
st to form a pi cot. Repeat around border.
Shawl in Staple Crochet and Knot Stitch
Materials. — Four skeins Shetland floss: wire staple 7 inches
long, I % inches wide, which can be made from the bail of
a lard pail; crochet-hook.
Make 9 pieces of staple lace, each i yard long.
1st roiv. — Take i strip, fasten wool in first 3 loops,
* work a group of knot stitch (k s), fasten with s c in
next 5 loops, * repeat across row.
2d row. — Turn, work a row of k s across strip.
jd row. — Turn, same as 2d row.
4th row.- — Same as 2d row.
^th rozv. — Turn, work a single k s, take a second
making shells to
work ends neatlv
come between loops. Join lace-
with needle and wool.
Materials. — Twenty skeins cream-white Germantown zephyr
for the body of shawl, 2 skeins of Saxony for the border,
7^2 yards I -inch satin ribbon, and a medium-sized crochet-
Begin the shawl at the lower corner with a chain
of 3 stitches, join with a slip stitch. In the ring
work a shell of 5 d c, ch 4, shell of 3 d c in the first
St of the 4 ch, fasten with s c in tlie middle of the
shell beneath, shell of 3 d c in last st of the shell be-
neath. Chain 2, turn and work a shell of 5 d c into
the middle st of last shell, fasten with s c between the
2 shells of the last row, shell of 5 d c into middle of
next shell. This finishes the first 3 rows. Chain 4,
turn, shell into first st of the ch. fasten intcj middle
(if first shell with s c. shell between the first 2 shells
of previous row, fasten into middle of shell with s c,
^liell into last st of the last shell, for 3//J row. —
Chain 2, turn, shell into middle of last shell of 4th
row, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next
shell, fasten between shells, shell into middle of next
shell, fasten into last st of the last shell of 4th row.
The remainder of the body of the shawl is a rep-
etition of the 4th and 5th rows. It will be seen
that there is a widening of one shell in every al-
ternate row. In one row the shells are placed be-
tween shells of the previous row, and the following
row has the shells on top of shells of previous row.
The widening is in the rows where shells come be-
tween shells. This gives the body of the shawl
the fluted effect.
For the border. — Begin at the right corner of the
top of the shawl with a ch of 6, skip 2 stitches on the
edge, tr c (treble crochet) in the next st, ch 2, skip
2 stitches, tr c in the next, and repeat all around the
shawl. This makes the open spaces through which
to run the ribbon.
Work the openwork border cross the 2 sides.
Begin at the left corner of the top. * Chain 6, fasten
with s c in ch 2 beneath, repeat from * across the
2 sides, widening at the lower corner so the work
will be plenty full enough. Repeat this row 7 times,
fastening chain in a chain. The gth row is same as
the other rows except the chain has 7 stitches. This
finishes the border for the sides.
Begin at the right corner of the top at the outer
corner of the openwork border, shell of (3 d c, 2 tr
c, 3 d c), fasten with s c into next open space.
Repeat these shells across the top of the shawl.
Run the rilibon through the ojien spaces and place
a bow at each corner of the shawl, as seen in the
This shawl measures 2 yards across the upper
edge and I yard deej).
These slippers are crocheted with a medium-sized
hook and fourfold (iermantown wool. To give a
very soft kind of work. No. 7 or S hook may be used;
but this is inclined to be too thin when washed.
About 9 or 10 is better. About three ounces of wool
will he needed.
Make an easy chain ajjout i) inches long. Work
in every stitch in single crochet.
2d rote. — Make i chain to turn; work a single
crochet in back loop of every stitch. Repeat this
second row until you have a length of eighteen
inches, no more, for an ordinary grown-up foot.
Now, sew or crochet very softly and evenly the two
sides of the work together; then lay the work per-
fectly flat and double, so that there are exactly the
same number of rows on one side of the end seam
as there are on the other. Xow sew or crochet the
edges very softly together so that you have a nine-
inch deep bag. Crochet a row of single crochet
around the top. then a round of holes, then a tiny edge
Make a good substantial chain to run through
holes, and add tassels, or instead of chain add a rub-
ber which fits the ankle easily, and put a ribbon bow
in front, exactly opposite the seam at back.
The slipper is put on the foot with the end of front
seam up to the toes ; the other end comes under the
Materials. — Four balls of white ice wool and a medium coarse
The body of tlw fascinator is in cross treble (c t)
stitcli. Piet;in at one edge with a chain of 150 sts.
as in tr c, insert hook in the 5th
and take a st, over, and skipping 2
Wool over twice
ch from the hook
ch take a st in the next, then work off all the sts on
the hook two at a time ; ch 2 and make a d c, then 2 sts
at the middle of the c t. This makes let. For the
next c t, over twice as before, take a st at the base of
the first c t in the same st. and finish same as the
first. Repeat the c t across the row, ending the row
with a t c in the last st of the ch ; ch 4. uirn, and
make a c t o\-er each c t of the first row. Repeat the
rows until the work is a perfect square.
Uor the border. — Chain 4, make a ring by wrap-
ping wool 3 times around the thumb of left hand,
insert the hook through the loops and make tight s c,
ch 3, s c in next c t, another ring, and repeat the
rings around the fascinator, placing them closer at
the corners, and join the last to the first. The next
2 rows are of knot stitch, making a knot in each ring,
and for the next row placing a knot in a knot. The
next riiw is riugs. Make a * s c each side of the first
knot, then a ring, ch 3, and repeat from * around
the fascinator, making extra rings at the corners.
Make the next row of knot stitch same as the second
row, then another row of rings same as second ring
row, then another row of knot stitch. For the next
row,' ch 7, fasten by a s c each side of the first knot.
ch 7, and repeat around the fascinator. For the next
row ch 7, and fasten by s c in the middle st of the
7 ch in last row, and repeat. For the last row, * ch
7. s c in the middle of 7 ch, ch 5 and fasten in same
st as the 7 ch, and repeat from *. The border has 10
rows. When finished the fascinator measures one
Ladies' Fascinatoi' in Staple Work
Made on a three-inch staple of blue Shetland
floss, two skeins being required. Draw wool
through enough loops to lay in a smooth circle,
then half as many more, it taking 105 loops in this
design. Tie tightly and fasten ends. The 2d strip
is joined to centre by drawing 2 loops of centre
through 4 of strip, then through 2 of centre. Double
a strip of five yards in the centre, draw wool
through 40 loops and tie tightly. Join strip to-
gether by working I ch and catching by s c into 3
loops, first on one side, then the other. After
working one yard together in this way, fasten wool
and separate strips and join each to centre in oppo-
site direction, one by 3 loops of centre to 4 of strip
to make full for the front, the other by 3 to 3 for
the back, joining strips together where they meet
as before and drawing wool through 40 loops at
end when string is even in length with first. This
last row joining to crown should be looped through
Lauies' Fascinator l\ Staple Work
as in previous two rows. Around the entire edge
crochet two rows of knot stitch as a finish. Use
any trimming you may like. This design is finished
with rosettes in baby ribbon and wool.
Materials. — One iinLinii nr move, aceordiiig to size desired, of
crcam-wliite Shetland tiu^s
A medium-sized bone crocliot-
Chaiii 4 and join in a circle.
1st roiu — Chain 3, i d c in circle. Now work a
knot-stitch by drawing ont tlie st tliat is on the
hook about 1-3 inch in leng-tli. Wool over and
draw through. Then work a s c rather closely
in front of the long stitch and under the thread
drawn through it. This completes a k st. Work a
cluster of 2 d c in circle in this way: Wool over
and insert hook in circle, wool over and draw
through, making 3 sts on the hook. Wool over
and draw through 2 sts. Now. leaving 2 sts on
hook, wool over and again insert hook in circle,
wool over and draw through, making 4 sts on
hook, wool over and draw through 2 sts, wool over
and draw through the 3 remaining sts. This com-
pletes a cluster of 2 d c which, alternately with a
k st is used tliroughout the work; * I k st, cluster
of 2 d c made as before. * Repeat until there are
8 k sts. Join Sth k st to 3d of 3 ch at lieginning of
2d ro'a' — Chain 3, il c in top of next d c, I k st,
cluster of 2 d c (worked as before') in same st with
d c just made, i k st, miss k st in last row and work
cluster of 2 <1 c in top of next cluster. When in-
serting the hook in the top of cluster put it not only
under the 2 threads of st directly on top. but also
under the back thread of the st Iving directlv below.
and which is twisted, or llattcncd. This makes 3
threads above the hook and the hook is passed
through the flat st. lie careful to do this through-
out the work, as it gives the rows of d c radiating
f re nil centre to lionler (if shawl a twisted, or cable
appearance. Knot st, cluster of 2 d c in same place,
* k st, 2 clusters of 2 d c separated by a k st
in top of next cluster (made as described above).*
Ke|ie;it from * to * around w"ork. This row
has been widened by working the 2 clusters in
each cluster of last row. thus douliling the number
of clusters and k ,sts; jnin la>t k st to 3 ch as be-
^d row — Chain 3, d c in next d c, k st, * chister
of 2 d c in next k st, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next
cluster, k st, cluster of 2 d c in next cluster, k st,
repeat from * around work, ending with a k st
joined to 3 ch at beginning.
4//; roiv — Beginning as in every row with 3 ch
and d c, work k sts and clusters of 2 d c alternately,
widening 8 times by putting 2 clusters, separated
by a k st. in each of the 8 clusters that were worked
in k sis in la^t row. Continue tlie work in this
way, widening in 8 places in each row.
/;; 20. ^Ih, 6th. and oil czen I'Oli'S the widenings
are made Iiy putting 2 clusters of d c in one cluster
of the last row, while in the ;},d . 5///, 7//;, and all
odd roll's the extra chister is put in the k st that
separates those two clusters in last row. Keep
the widenings in a straight line. Where each row
is commenced with 3 ch and a d c, make this part
to resemble the clusters of d c as closely as possi-
ble, so the rows will look alike.
When the body of shawl is of the desired size,
work the border as follows: C)ne il c in top of cluster
Dl'TAIL OF CUULL.AK .Sll.XWL
of 2 d c in last row, k st, shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2
d c. in next cluster of 2 d c in last row, k st, i
d c in next cluster, k st, shell in next, and so on,
alternating shells and i d c with the k sts between.
The first three rows are worked alike. Then
work four more in the same way except that there
are 2 cli in centre of each shell instead of i ch.
This widens the border slightly.
/;; the S//i roii' work a scallop of 6 loose d c sep-
;irat-M;l by i ch. in a shell of last row, * i ch, s c m
top of I d c of last row. i ch, scallop in ne.xt shell,
repeat from *.
foi' iJw rdgc, beginning with s c under the i ch
just before tlic s c between 2 scallops, s c under
next I ch, ch 2 loosely, s c under first space 1)e-
tween d c of scallop, repeat around scallop eniling
with a s c uniler i ch just before the s c between
scallops in last row. Now work the next s c under
the I ch before next scallop and repeat the loops of
2 ch around each scallop but work the 2 s c be-
tween scallops, zvitltoiit any ch between.
Silk Slippers with Wool Lining
The lining of this slipper is made of four-fold
zephvr in the ordinary s c ribbed slipper stitch and
requires about 4 laps. Commence with a row of
20 s c, ch 2, turn and taking up back st work 9 s c,
Silk .Slipper with Wool Lining
widen in mth bv ]iutting 3 s c into it, 10 s c, ch 2.
turn and work back and forth, widen in centre
every other mw. and taking up back st, which makes
the ribs, unlil ynu ha\e 12 ribs; turn and work 20
s c liack anil forth until the strip will meet around
the sole. Join together at side and toe, and sew to
sole liv overcasting it on the right side.
The outside is of wheels and made of machine
twist. Size F. and takes a one-ounce spool. Wind
the silk around the end of an ordinary lead pencil
10 times. Slip it off carefully and into this ring
work 2 rows of 24 s c each. Around this work 12
loops of 5 ch st each, skipping i s c and catching
into next Iw s c.
To join '.elteels. — Work one entire wheel and the
next all but the ch st loops, ch 2, catch into loop of
1st wheel by s c, ch 3, back into unfinished wheel
by s c, skipping i s c, ch 2, catch into next loop of
1st wheel, ch 2, back into unfinished wheel by s c,
skipping s c. l^'inish wheel by working 10 loops.
In this manner work a strip of wheels to go around
slipper, next to sole, and join together. Work a
wheel and join to strip by 4 loops to the 4 loops of
any one wheel of strip, and by 2 loops to first 2
loops of each of the wheels on either side of the
one just joined to, which forms the centre toe.
This makes the slipper stand up from the sole, and
gives it a better shape. This leaves 4 free loops on
last wheel made, also 2 free loops on wheel at either
side. The wheels now are joined to this strip
across the toe in rows of 2, then 3. then 4, then 5,
in this manner. Work one wheel all but the loops
of ch sts, join by 2 loops to 2 loops of 2d wheel
from centre wheel of strip, to 2 free loops of wheel
next to centre, and to 2 loops of the 4 loops of
centre wheel, finish wheel by working 6 free loops.
Join another wheel in like manner, by 2 loops to
this last wheel made, 2 loops to 2 free loops of cen-
tre wheel, 2 loops to ist wheel from centre, and 2
to first 2 loops of 2d wheel from centre, finish by
working 6 free loops. Next join the 3 wheels in
same manner, then 4 and then 5. This completes
the toe. The strip around the back is 3 wheels
deep, counting the row already made. In making
the other rows join wheels as you work them by 2
loops to each other and 4 to the bottom strip, so
(bat the wheels will rest over the joining of wheels
below, which is done by catching into 2 last loops
of the one wheel and the two first of the next.
Finish the top with an hour-glass design to run
the ribljon through as follows: Tie wool in 2d loop
of wheel, ch 6. d c in ne.xt loop, ch 3, wool over
the hook 3 times, catch into last loop of wheel and
draw wool through, wool over, draw through 2 sts,
wool over, draw through 2 more, wool over twice,
catch into ist loop of next wheel, wool over, draw
through 2 sts at a time till all are off. ch 3, wool
over, catch in st at centre where all parts seem to
join, work d c. ch 3. d c in 2d loop and repeat.
This same edge is worked around the bottom to
sew on by, only wool is thrown over the hook but
twice at beginning of hour-glass, and is caught in
loops bv s c instead of d c.
The frill is just a full ruffle of ch sts. 5 long-
drawn-out ch being in each loop, and 3 loops put
into each opening. The 2d row is the same, chain
5 and catch into the top of loops of preceding
row by s c ; a silk edge is then worked around in
same manner with same nunilicr of sts. The frill
and row for ribbon is made of two-fold zephyr and
one lap is required. Run in No. 2 satin ribbon of the
same shade as the wool lining. Fasten with a bow.
Material required, about lo skeins Slietland flos'
sized bone crochet-hook.
and a nttdium-
for width I if
Make a chain of length desircil
1st rozv. — Two d c in 3d st from hook. Shell of
3 d c in every 3d st of chain, I d c at end to keep the
edge straight, ch 3, turn.
sd roti.' is the familiar star stitch. ^\'ork ist
star as follows: insert the hook in ist one of 3
ch (the one next the work), draw wool through
rather looselv and keeping it on the hook, insei't
hook in hack loop of stitch at top of d c on edge,
draw wool through loosely as he fore and repeat
in each d c of shell, taking up back loop each time.
There will be 6 loops on the hook. Wool over and
draw through all, then make a tight ch st which
closes star. To make next star, take up first loop
under one thread just below the "eye" of last star,
second one in loop just below this one (where last
loop of the other star was made), and the other three
across the top of shell as before. Finish this star
by closing with a tight ch st as before. The loops
should be drawn out to eipial lengths and loosely
made. After closing star with ch st, draw the st out
rather loosely on hook before taking up loops for
next star or the work will draw. Work a d c at
end of row as before, ch 3, turn.
2d rozu. — Shell of 3 d c in each star, putting it in
eye of star, d c at end.
^fli row. — Star stitch.
^Ili row. — Shells, and so on, alternating these two
rows until of re<|uired length, keeping edges straight
with d c and 3 ch at ends.
.■■ ■ i
A.-^ i.^ •
' 1- "
■ - ~ i."
Detail of Scakf
To iiiaki' scalloped cili/os. — rieginning with a s c
at L-Ui]. ch J, J d c back into same st with s c, s c
on edge of scarf just far enough from the first s c
to make the small pointed scallop lie flat, ch 2, 2 d c
back into same st with last s c. fasten down on edge
with s c as before, repeat to end.
To finish ends of scarf. — t'hain 2, s c in first space
between shells, ch 2, s c in next space, repeat. This
makes a foundation for fringe.
Foi' heading of fringe. — Make 2 d c in each space
across ends, working them as follows: Work off the
first d c until there are 2 stitches left on hook, then
instead of finishing in the usual manner, wool over
and work another d c in same place, working off 2
threads at a time until .-dl are worked off. This
closes the 2 d c into i st at top, 2 ch, 2 d c in
next space, repeat.
For fringe. — Wrap .Shetland floss around a card
of suitable size six times, cut and with the ends
held evenly together, draw loop through space on
end of scarf, then draw ends through loop and pull
Materials. — Two hanks of Scotch wool, i roll uf hraid for
binding, ^ of a yard of silk for facing the fronts, lo
small brass buttons, 2 balls of crochet silk for working,
and '4 of a yard of broad crinkle-edge elastic, 1 long crochet-
hook about the size of a No. 13 bone knitting-needle, i
spool of twibt.
Make a ch of 35 sts, turn, and putting the hook
into the 2d st, put wool over and draw it througli
the St. Keeping the st on the hook, continue to
back edges i st every other rib seven times, or 14
ribs. Make a ch of 12 sts on the back edge and
take up 10 sts as at the beginning of the work.
This gives the under-arm extension. Widen every
rib on the front edge for 18 ribs, crocheting straight
on the back. Work one rib without widening. Then,
on the edge of the right side of the vest, after
crocheting the first 2 sts, make a ch of 2 sts be-
tween the 2d and 3d sts to make a little opening
for the buttonhole. Narrow on the front edge I st
every 3d rib, and make ch for the buttonhole after
every 6th rib. Do this for 22 ribs. Now bind off
21 sts from the under-arm seam, and beginning to
crochet from the 22d st narrow i on the front every
3d rib, crochet back to within I st of the back edge
every rib. Do this for 6 ribs, remembering to make
the buttonhole where it should come in reference
to the others. Bind off. This completes the front.
Take up stitches on the opposite shoulder and
crochet the other front to correspond. Sew up the
vest at the under-arm seams. To work the stars
use knitting silk. On colored or white vest two
cross-stitches of black and two of yellow make a
pretty combination. Under the buttonholes place
a narrow stay of muslin. Underface the fronts
with bias silk or satin. W'ork the buttonholes with
twist. It is well before binding the fronts and
armholes to overcast the edges with the wool, to pre-
vent stretching in binding. It is also well to hold the
edges rather full in binding and to note the meas-
urements given below. Underface the lower edge
of the back with a flat elastic band. Finish with
two rows of small buttons.
Neck measure, 31 inches; armhole, 17 inches;
length of front, 7 inches.
the end of the ch until there are 34 sts on the hook.
Now put the wool ov^er and draw back through
one St. Put wool over and draw back through the
st just formed and the one next on the hook. Con-
tinue to the end of the row. This makes the regu-
lar afghan-stitch with which most persons are
familiar. It will be seen that to make one complete
rib requires crocheting twice across, so, to simplifv
the directions, we will speak of narrowing and wid-
ening by ribs rather than rows.
Having started with 34 sts on the hook and
crocheting twice across to form one rib, now widen
every second rib at each end for four times. This
gives 8 ribs. Work 22 ribs without widening. Now
widen i st at both ends of rib every ^d rib for four
times. Crochet 2'; ribs straight.
This brings the work to the shoulder.
Take one-third of the stitches for one shoulder,
bind off one-third for the neck, and crochet on the
next third for the other shoulder. Crochet 8 ribs
straight, then widen on the front edge every 3d
rib I st for five times. Now widen both front and
Materials. — Ten skeins of white and j of black Saxony, 4j^
yards of No. 4 ribbon, and a niL-dium-sized bone hook.
Begin at the neck with a chain of 107 stitches.
Beginning in the 2d st from the hook, make a single
crochet in each st of the ch. For the next row ch
I, turn, and make a s c in each s c of the 1st row,
taking the st through both sts beneath. For the 3d
row, ch 2, turn, and make a puff in each s c of 2d
row. To make the puff, thread over as for d c. take
a st through the s c, thread over, take another st in
the same filace, thread over and take another st
in the same place, llien draw thread through all
the sts on the hook and fasten by a s c. For the
next niw, ch i, turn, make a s c between each 2
puff's, and to widen make 2 s c in every loth space.
The next row is the same as the 2d. The body of
the kimono is a repetition of the row of puffs and
the 2 rows of s c alternating, and widening in the
first of the 2 rows of s c. same as in tlic 4th row.
Work until there are 18 rows of puffs. For the ist
row of the horder, ch 4. make a puff hetween the 2i\
and 3d puffs, ch 1. putt in the space« hetween the
4th and 5th puffs, and finish the row, skipping 2 puffs
after each i ch. Break tlie thread. Begin with the
black at the same corner as the previous row, ch 4,
puff in each space beneath, break the thread. iMake
another row of white, one of black, and another
of white same as the last row. The last 3 rows ex-
tend across the bottom of the kimono.
The outer border is made separate and sewed
on, all around tlie kinicjuo. It is made thus; L'liain
T2 sts. Make 2 A c in the 5th from the hook, ch i,
2 d c in tlie same place, ch 3, skip 3 sts. fasten in
the next by s c, skip 2 ch. 2 d c in the next, ch 1,2
d c in the same place, ch 3, turn, 2 d c between the
two groups of d c, ch 3, fasten in top of next d c by
s c; then shell of 2 d c, i ch, 2 d c in the ch i, ch i,
5 puffs in the ch 5 with i ch lietween, ch 1, fasten
in the lo]i nf the last d c of the previous row, ch i,
turn. * s c in the first I ch, I (.1 c anil I s c in the
same place. Repeat from * in each l ch between the
pulfs. This finishes one scallop. Repeat from the
first row until the l)order is Ion;; emiugh to extend
around the kimono, holding it full at the four cor-
ners. Edge the border with the black by making
chains of 4 sts and fastening by s c in the middle
and between the shells. Make a rciw of holes at the
neck through which to run the ribbon liy making d c
with 2 ch between in every 3d st. Sew the border
on neatly with the white yarn, making full enougli
at the corners. Fasten imder the arms to form the
sleeves, and make bows of the rilibon at the fasten-
ings and larger bow on the top of the sleeve. Run
the ribbon through the neck for the ties. This ki-
mono measures one-half yard from the neck to the
Ladv's Rreakk.-^st Kimono
\^'e can furnish the following Books at the prices named:
The Priscilla Cross-Stitch Book. Price
How to Make Baskets. I'rice, 25 cents.
Hardanger Work. My Anna M. Porter. Price, 25 cts
The Priscilla Manual. Price, 75 cents.
How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace. Price, 25 ct
Mexican Drawn Work. Price, 23 cents.
The Priscilla Crochet Book, 1903. Price, 25 Cents.
The Priscilla Knitting Book, 1903. Price. 25 cents.
The Priscilla China Painting Book. Price, 15 cents.
French, Eyelet, and Shadow Embroidery. Price, 25 cts.
Articles for Babies and Children
Matkri,\ls. — Four skeins ^vliitc four-fold zepliyr, and I of pink.
Rilil)on for ties, and 10 yards baby ribbon for rosettes and to run
in rows of double crochet.
A hood made by these directions will fit a child
from 6 to 10 years old according to size of head.
Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn,
and taking up back st of star work row of d c.
Continue until you have 6 rows of alternate stars
and d c.
yth row — Twenty-seven stars, widen i, i star.
8//; rozv — Double crochet without widening.
gth row — Stars without widening.
10//; row — Double crochet without widening.
nth row — Twenty-eight stars, widen i. i star.
J2th row — Double crochet without widening.
13//; row — Widen at beginning I star, 29 stars,
widen I, I star.
14/// rozi' — Doulilc crochet without widening.
13//; row — Stars, widening at the beginning and
before making last star.
16//! row — Double crochet witliout widening.
i/th rozi' — Stars; work to end of row, leaving
off last 3 stars. Break wool.
18//; rozv — Leave off 3 stars, tie in wool, and
make d c to end of row.
19//J rozc — Widen at beginning. Leave off 3 stars
(or ratlier their equivalent — 6 d c).
201I1 row — Leave off 4 stars, and d c to end of
2 IS/ row — Sixteen stars.
22d rozt' — Skip 8 stars and d c over remaining 8.
231/ rozt' — Widen I star and make 3 stars.
This is for one side and the edge at starting point
is the top edge; the other side is worked the same
only reversing terms, the edge where rows are
ended being the top edge, thus;
Chain 59, on which work 28 stars. Chain 3, turn
and work row of d c. W ork 6 rows as above.
Jill roz^' — One star, widen i, 27 stars.
8//; rozi' — Double crochet without widening.
gth rozv — Stars without widening.
lo'/j rozv — Double crochet without widening.
11//1 rozv — One star, widen i, 28 stars.
I2tli rozv — Double crochet without widening.
13//; rozv — One star, widen i, 29 stars; widen at
end of row.
14//1 rozv — Double crochet without widening.
15/A rozv — One star, widen i, work tcj end of row,
16th rozv — Dnulile crochet without widening.
lylh rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row,
ch 3, turn.
iStli rozv — ^^'ork d c to end of row, leaving off
3 stars. Break wool.
19//1 rozv — Skip 3 stars and work to end of row,
20?/! rozv — Double crochet to end of row, leav-
ing off 4 stars.
21st rozv — Sixteen stars, lea\ing off 6.
22d rozv — Doulile crochet over S stars, leaving 8
27,d rozv — Three stars, leaving off 5 and widening
Whip top edges of hooil together and stitch up
The rever is made as follows: Chain 91, on
which work 44 stars, ch 3, turn.
2(/ rozv — Doulile crochet. T,d rozv — Stars. 4th
niTL'— Double crochet. 3//; mt.'— Stars. Around
one side and both ends of this stri]i, and around the
outside edge of entire hood, crochet a frill made
in three rows thus:
1st ro'a' — Pink shells made by working 2 d c, ch
2, 2 d c in the same stitch, skipping 2 stars between
shells and working 1 ch lietween.
2(1 roxv — Of the cream wdul. I'"ive d c in shell
with I ch between each, and catch down between
by s c.
3(/ ro'w — With the pink wool. Chain 3. catch
by s c between each d c in top of shell, and by s c
without chain between each shell.
Run baby ribbon thrimgh rows of d c in both
hood and rever, and hnish with rosettes of the
Baby's Carriage Afghan
Materials. — Fifteen .'^kcins of creain-wliite (lerniantnwn, t '^
yards of wliitc eiderdown, 5 yards narruw riM»ini. and a
medium-sized bone hook.
The Iiody of the afgluin is formed of 5 stripes
going lengthwise, but all joined in the making.
Three of the stri])es are made of vlar stitch and
d c. and 2 rows are of popcorn stitch.
\\in-k a ch afiout i 1-4 yards long. On the ch
work 175 d c fur the first row. Skip a st of ch
B.ir.Y's C.\RRHGE Afgh.\-\
about every 6th d c to keep the edge from drawing.
Turn and work a row of stars. Place a star over
every 2 d c. Turn and work a row of d c into the
stars, working 2 d c over each star, i d c in the
eye of star and i d c in stitch between the eyes.
Alternate these 2 rows until there are 6 rows of
stars and 7 rows of d c This forms the first stripe.
To make the popcorn stripe, work a s c over each of
the first 2 d c, * ch 4, s c in each of next 3 d c, and
repeat from * to end of the row. Take the s c
through both the back and front st beneath. Turn
and work the ne.xt row of s c. dropping out the ch
4 wdiich forms the raised appearance. Alternate
these 2 rows initil there are 11 rows with the raised
parts and end with a row of d c. This finishes the
popcorn stripe. Work another stripe like the first
one, then another popcorn stripe, then another like
the first, as seen in the illustration.
Work a row of d c with ch 2 lietween all around
the afghan through which to run the ribbnn. The
border consists of 4 rows.
l,j^ rocf — Shell of 2 d c, eh 2, 2 d c in every al-
ternate ch 2 of previous row.
2d riTic — .'^hell of 3 d c, ch 2, 3 d c in every shell
of previous row.
^d rnw — Same as 2d row. For the last row, ch
3, s c in ch 2 of the shell, ch 5 and s c in same place,
eh 6 and s c in same place, ch 3 and s c in same
place — this forms 3 |)icots in the ch 2; cli 3, s c
between the shells, ch 3 and s c in the ch 2 of next
shell. Repeat to end of the row.
Cut the eiderdown to fit the afghan, letting the
edges come, to the row for the riblion. With the
wool work a row of d c with 2 ch between all
ariiuiid the lining, catching the d c into the edge of
the eiderdown. IMace the afghan and lining with
the wrong sides together. Pace the rihlion through
the lining and outside, thus fastening them together
In this way they can easily be taken apart to be
cleansed. This afghan is all white, but if a color
is desired it looks very pretty to work the plain
niws in the ]iopcorn stripe either of pink or blue and
then work the last row of the border of the same
Materials. — Dark cre.ini silk, niodiuni sleid ororliet-liook.
Work 60 loose ch.
]st riire — (Jne d c in third ch, i d c in following
2d roiv — Single crochet across, taking up back
of St to make ridge. Skip i st in centre of every
other row in the entire bib. Work i st less at the
beginning of each of the first l6 rows, or one for
each of 8 ridges. Then increase I at the beginning
of next 8 rows or 4 ridges, then I at beginning and
end of each remaining rows, or 2 for each ridge.
There should be 52 sts in last row. Press with hot
iron. Chain 74 and fasten to lower end of bib
1st row — Chain 5 * i d c in second ch, i ch * i d
c in second cli. repeat across chain and end of bib;
join to first 5 ch.
2d rozv — Chain 4, shell of 3 roll st — silk over
12 times in first d c of last row, i d c in next d c,
shell in next d c, repeat all around, clip silk;
make the other arm piece the same way.
Finish the top of bib same as arm. working d c
on wrong side of work and roll st always on right
side ; finish the bottom the same also, then work
the extra rows like this: 3 ch on wrong side, i
s c between first 2 roll sts of shell, 3 ch, i s c be-
tween next 2 roll sts, 4 ch, I s c between first 2
roll sts of next shell ; repeat.
Lasl row — Shell of 4 roll sts in loop on top of
shell, shell of 4 roll sts on next shell ; repeat across.
Finish with 3 ch, i d c. 3 ch, i d c. all around bib
Tie the sleeve pieces together in back with cream
taffeta or satin ribbon about 1-2 inch wide.
M.\TF.RiALS. — Two skeins of two-fold white Sa.xony and a fine
Begin at the end with a chain of 42 stitches worked
Turn and work a s c in each chain stitch. * Turn,
ch I, and work s c in each s c of the first row, taking
up the back loops of the stitches. Turn, ch i, s c in
each s c, taking stitch thrciugh both front and back
stitches beneath. Repeat from the * alternatin
2 rows until 27 ridges are made.
In next row, work 7,2 s c, leaving 10 at the en
were skipped. In the next ridge take up 2 of the
skipped ones, in next ridge 3, and in the next 2,
thus making same number of stitches as in begin-
ning. This forms a small dart at the lower edge.
Work four ridges plain.
To form the next dart, work to within 2 s c of the
lower edge and back, then to within 3 of end of pre-
vious ridge, then to within 2 of end, then to within 3,
thus dropping 10 s c, same as in the first dart. In the
ne.xt ridge work to the lower edge, taking up 42 s c.
Work 27 ridges to correspond with the first side.
Finish the band with a scallop of ( i ch, 4 d c, I ch)
fastened by s c.
This band measures 6 inches in width and 20 in
length. Use a soft quality of Sa.xony so it will not
irritate, and a fine hook to make the work rather
Materials. — Two-fold Saxony or zephyr ; i skein of the former
or 2 of the latter. Silk for edge and ribbon for ties.
The features of this bootee are its toe and heel.
Commence at toe with chain 19, using first three
stitches to start the star, around which work 8
stars, widen (w) I star, 8 stars, w 1; fasten by
slip stitch in top of 1st star. Chain 3 to start
star of next row, 8 stars, w I, I star, w I, 8 stars,
Turn and work back.
In ne.xt row, make 32 s c and 2 s c of the 10 which
vv I. 1 star, w I, catch as before by si st in top of
ist star. Chain 3. w^ i star at each end of next
2 rows, after which work 7 rows without widen-
ing; fasten and clip wool. Skip the ist 9 stars
and tie wool in eye of next star, ch 3, 17 stars, clip
wool. This leaves the 9 stars. Tie woo! at begin-
ning, ch 3 and repeat as before until you have 6
rows of 17 stars each: then work 4 rows of 7 stars
each, which forms the hceh Sew heel together across
bottom and np siile. This forms the foot of liootee.
Crochet a row of double knot stitch of the silk
to run ribl)on through. There should be 25 or 20
.\fter the row of knot st clip silk ami tie wool
in top of first loop anil work 3 cb. Draw wool
through each of J ch st. making 3 cb sts on hook;
then tor 4tb and 3tb sts of star ilraw wool through
long chain of loop on either side of centre short
2d rozi.' — Widen one star at centre back.
3^ row — Plain.
4//( row — Knot stitch
c;//( i-(i7c — Star stitch. Alternate knot stitch and
star stitch until you have three clusters of same,
widening one star in ceiUre back every row of
stars; then two rows of knot stitch and two of star
stitch. The sock is finisiied with a shell edge of
wool and a final edge of chain stitch of the silk.
Materials. — One small skein of white (^ermantown. ':i yard
wliite China silk, white swan"s-down of suftieient length tu
go around hooil. ^4 yard white riljljon atxnit 1 ineli wide,
and very line lumc crochet himk.
Chain 4, join, drawing up firmly to prevent open
centre. Within this work 8 stars, thus: Chain 2.
wool over, draw up loop from centre in stitch at
base of chain just made, draw up a loo[) from hole
in centre, wool over and draw through all, cb i. In-
sert hook in eye of star just formed li\' cb and draw
u|) a loo[), I loop in back of last star, i loop in centre
(4 on hook), wool over and draw through all, cb
I and so on until there are S stars. Join bist star
to first by a slip-stitch into the top hori/ontal stitch
of first star. Chain 2, i loop in ist cb, i loop in
top horizontal stitch of star underneath, wool o\er,
draw through all, ch i^ i loop in eye just formed,
I in back of star just made, I in place where last
stitch (loop) of last star was taken, and 1 in nc.\t
eve, wDiii o\er. ch i. Continue thus. If the work
begins to get too full, skip an eye or bar as may he
necessary to keep work flat. Work 4 rows of stars.
If a larger hood is desired, go around once or
twice more. This size is for a lirst hood.
Tin- Front. — Which is worked liack and forth. —
See diagram. Chain. On this wurk iq stars thus:
Wool over, pick up loops in 2 clKiins. wool over, draw
through, ch i, i loop in eye just formed. 1 in back of
star just formed, i in ch where last loop of last star
and I in ne.\t ch, (if cb is not verv loose it is
belter to skip one ch or the foundation will be apt
to draw in), wool over, draw thnnigb all. cb I.
ITa\-e K) stars. Chain 4. 'urn. In b'-ginning jd
row. work one star extra out on this chain, thus:
Wool o\'er, draw up loops in Iwii chains farthest
from hook, wool over, through all, chain I, loop in
eye of star just made, loop in back of same star, I
in same space as last of preceding star, and one
in next iKjrizontal (skip the eye), 4 on hook, wool
over, draw through, cb 1, continue. Keep front of
IJi.igrani ot Baby's
Baby's 1!on'NKT. (See Diagram)
hood straight; widen on back in same way until
there are 23 stars. liy being careful to catch up
the loop on the edge i star can be niade extra each
row; 19 stars in ist row, 20 in iie.\t, 21 in next, and
so on to 2^. Then narrow each row in back till 19
is reached. Narrow bv dropping iilT one star each
row at back edge, working star o\'cr 2d star froin
edge. This makes g rows. Then work across,
Ijack and forth with 19 stars until you have about
22 rows of stars, counting from foundation cham.
This forms one-half of bonnet. Continue working
until you have 22 rows of 19 stars. Widen at
b:ick edge one star each row until there are 23
stars, then narrow one each row until there are
only 11). Sew up the back :ind full in to crown.
Line with silk and finish with swan's-down and
ribbon. Tbi-re are 3S rows in :ill in front of bonnet.
This beautiful little cap is for a two-year-old
child. The fan-like designs are made in rows and
then crocheted together at the picots. ( >u top of the
bead the first two rows divide so that the fans fall
down on the sides. The ist row has 7 fans on each
side: the 2d row has 6 fans, ( )u top where the fans
diviile, in the 2il row, are joined :i row of 7 fans
which run down over the middle of head but not
(|uite to the neck: the hist of the se\en should be
somewhat smaller to ni.ake a nicer shape. To fill
ill tlie sides of the cap, the y\ row has 2 fans dividing
with 3 more running downward to make it even with
2d row ; the 4th row has the ist fan standing side wise
joincii to the two dividing ones in the 3d row, this
is to shape the back; to tliis are added 3 fans which
are to be even with the 2(1 and 3d rows. On the
bottom join a row of 4 fans, beginning from the 2d
row and going Ijack to nape of neck. The joining is
all done by two chains and doubles in the picots from
one row to the other. Detailed instructions would
be too confusing for making the joinings, but a little
ingenuity and fitting on a child's head will be of
Use mercerized cotton or crochet silk, and start
with the fan in the centre of the ring. Chain 7, and
in the 1st ch work 6 roll stitches, over 15 times.
Detail of roU-stitch. — Wind the thread 15 times
over the hook, bring up loop through 1st ch. thread
over the hook and draw through the coil on the hook,
thread over hook and draw through the one loop
on the hook. Repeat this for each stitch until you
have six. Chain 6 and fasten down into the ist ch
also; this makes a shell or fan. To wind a heavy
ring around this fan, lav the fan with the hook in
its loop on the forefinger of left hand, hold it down
with the thumb, and with the thread wind 10 times
over three fingers. Take the hook out of the loop
and put it in again from the opposite direction,
slip off the ring carefully, and with the hook pass
over into the eye of the fan (the eye is where the
roll sts were worked in), and now work 3 s c into the
eye of the fan and over the ring at the same time
to fasten the windovers. Next work up the side
on ring with 12 s c, now a tr under the ch of fan
(do the tr from the back) now a p of 5 ch, fasten
the p on top of tr, 5 s c under the ring (a tr on
fan, a p of 5 ch), repeat until there are 9 tr and 9
p. Between the first and last two rolls make 2 tr
and one between the others; finish with 12 s c.
If they are the same size as the design this fills
the ring. They need not necessarily be the same
size, so long as you make an odd number of p. At
the end of 12 s c fasten down with a si st, and
without cutting thread the next fan in the row can
be made. Chain 10 and fasten around the centre tr
on the wrong side, 7 more and fasten on the centre
p, which p is now the foundation from which the
next fan is made, using the hole in the picot for
putting in the roll sts. Where the fans are to divide
tlie fan is made exactly opposite.
If desired a China silk lining can be made for the
cap. It is trimmed with big chii'fon rosettes where
the ties are fastened.
Baby's Cap. Daisj^ Design
Chain 8, join to form ring.
1st niiiiid. — Chain I, s c into ring 24 times; join
into 1st s c.
2d round. — Chain 5 : roll stitch into each stitch of
preceding round. Make rolls by throwing thread
over needle 20 times, fasten in s c of 1st round, and
drawing off all at once; ch i.
Babv's Cai'. Daisy Uesig.n'
j?(/ round. — Chain 5. Cover this chain with 12 s c,
and fasten into ist space of preceding round; s c
into next space between rolls, ch 5, fasten to cov-
ered ch, turn and fill ch. Repeat around cap.
4tlt round. — Chain 3. fasten between 2 eyelets of
3d round with 1 c, ch 3, fasten in top of 1 c, ch 3,
fasten in same place, ch 3, fasten in same place,
ch 3, fasten in top of next eyelet. This makes clover
leaf. Work them all around cap.
ji//( round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of leaf, ch 5,
fasten in top of next leaf. etc.
OUi louiid. — Work 3 rolls of jo stitches on ch he-
tween each leaf around cap.
~tlt round. — Another round of leaves, fastening
1 let ween each roll.
8th round. — Repeat 5th round.
Qth round. — Twenty daisies, made separately,
sewed together, and then sewed around ca]). Keep
work tight enough to shape cap.
lollt round. — Fasten on side of dai.sy, ch 3, skip 2
rolls and fasten in same daisy, ch 5, fasten on side
of next dai.sy, ch 3, skip j mils, fasten in same daisy
Repeat around cap.
////; round. — Clover leaves all around cap, 2 to
each daisy, l in each place where ch is j(.Mned to
/_>//( round. — Repeat 3th round. This completes
/ ,V/i roii'. — Seventeen daisies, i to every 2 clover
leaves, except i)th which has 3 clover leaves.
Leave off S clover leaves to form Ii.ick.
14th rote. — Repeat 5th round, 7 st to each chain,
fastening in top of each daisy.
l^th row. — Clover leaves across front, r to each
i6th coTi'. — Repeat 5th round. 6 st to each ch.
lyih ro'i.'. — Repeat 13th row.
iStli rozL'. — Rei>eat 14th row.
iQili row. — Repeat 15th row.
20fli row. — Repeat 1 6th row.
2Jst rozi.'. — Daisies all around, 17 for front, 13
7'() niukc dai.\-ii\i. — Chain 6, fasten to form ring,
I'hain 2. Make 12 rolls of ij threads each, fasten
iJth roll to 1st, cut thread and fasten. .Sew daisies
together, heginning where thread hangs loose, so
that the loose end may be hidden, and fasten 2 rolls
in one to 2 in the other. Have thread long enough
to sew together i round of daisies. In sewing
daisies to cap, do not break thread, but fasten in ch
of last row.
Materi.\ls, — rThrec spools crochet silk, hook to correspon-I,
Chain 6, join to form ring.
1st round. — Chain 2, d c into ring 28 times.
.'(/ round. — ]\Iake one roll in top of each st of ist
Make roll by throwing thread over hook 20
times, and taking all ofi at once.
?(/ round. — Chain 3, d c between first 2 rolls,
ch 3, s c into top of last st, repeat mitil there are
three picots, ch 3, s c between next 2 rolls. This
makes clover leaf. Work them all around.
4th round. — Chain 5, fasten in top of first clover
leaf, ch 7, fasten in top of next leaf, ch 7, fasten in
'itii round. — Make 5 roll stitches in each space of
0th round. — Ixcpcat 3d round.
Jth round. — Chain 3 between each leaf unless cap
cups too nuich, when (1 or 7 should be made.
Sih round. — Repeat 3lh munil. 3 rolls to each
(;//; round. — Repeat 3d roiuid, I leaf to 2 rolls, then
I to 4, alternate thus around cip.
lOtJi round. — Rejjeat 7th rnund.
////( round. — Repeat >Sth muud.
iJth round. — Repeat <)lh rdund, I leaf to every 4
i:;th round. — Repeat 12th rounil. i leaf between
each one of 12th round.
/.///; round. — Chain 3, s c in top of leaf of 13th
round, ch 3, d c in top of leaf iti 12th round, etc.
This completes crown.
i~ith row. — Repeat Sth round, 2 rolls to each
s]iace. Leave off 6 leaves to form back. Clip silk.
l6th roxv. — Fasten in first leaf of 15th row and
re|)eat 6th round.
ijth row. — Chain 4 lietween each leaf.
iSth roio. — Repeat 13th row. Clip silk.
loth roio. — Repeat ]6th row, fastening in first leaf
of I Sth row.
30tli row. — Repeat 17th row.
2ist row. — Shell of 10 rolls at corner, fasten
in 2d leaf of front, shell of 7 rolls in next leaf and
fasten in next, etc.
If there are too many leaves.
skip 2 in place of i at intervals. There should he
ahout 17 shells across front, and six across back.
22d rozv. — Chain 3. s c in space between first 2
stitches of first shell, ch 3, s c between next 2 sts, etc.,
entirely around cap.
This cap will fit a child. 2 or even 3 years old. If
a smaller one is desired make 24 d c in ist round.
This hood requires i skein of Shetland floss.
Chain 8. join.
1st row. — Chain 3, s c in st, * ch 3, s c in next *
7 times, making 8 loops.
-'(/ row. — * Single crochet in ist st of ch, 3 s c in
ne.xt, I s c in next, miss s c, * 8 times; join by si st,
;d roTi'. — Miss I st, * i s c in next, 3 s c in next, I
in next, miss 2; * repeat around, si st at end of row,
^tli roit'. — Like 3d, always taking back loop of st.
^tli row. — Single crochet in each st, making 3 s c
in I at point.
6th roiv. — Three s c in each point, missing 2 s c
jth row. — Like 5th.
8th, oth rows. — Like 6th. Now work 8 rounds
plain bean st. (.See directions for bean stitch, page
iSth ro'w. — Work bean st, missing
of row. Turn.
lOth rocL'. — Treble crochet in bean
next bean, * repeat around face.
8 lieans at end
* ch I, tr c in
201 h row. — A bean in each tr c.
2ist, 23d. 2jd. 24th rows. — Plain bean st, using
pink, for 23d row.
25//; rozv. — All the way around work loops, s c
in st, ch 3, miss I, s c in next.
Trim with ribbon as shown in cut.
Materials. — Six skeins of wliite Saxony, 5 yards of No. 2 i)inl<
riijbon, and medium-sized bone hook.
The centre is in star stitch. Chain 150 on which
work a row of 70 stars and clip wool.
2rf ro7t' — Work a star over each one of the first
row. Break the wool at the end of each row.
To keep the sides straight, in every alternate row
begin by placing a star over the first two stars,
and working an extra star at the end of the row.
This keeps the same number of stars. Work un-
til the shawl is square.
The border is in five rows.
I.J/ roiv — Double crochet with 2 ch between, mak-
-ing holes for the ribbon.
2(/ rozv — Wool over the needle twice, take a st in
the top of a d c, wool over, draw wool through 2 sts
rm the hor)k, wool over, take a st in the next d c,
crochet all the sts on the hook off two at a time,
ch 2, d c in the st at the crossing of the treble.
The next cross tr begins in the same d c as the pre-
ceding tr ends. Make the work full at tlie corners
so it will lie flat.
3rfro'i' — Shell of 2 d c, 2 ch, 2 d c in the st be-
tween 2 tr, and fasten by s c in the st between the
next 2 tr.
4//; row — Work the same shell in a shell, with a
d c in the s c between.
^tli row — In each shell of the 4th row make 3
(1 c, 3 picots by chaining five for each p and
fastening back into the top of the 3d d c, 3 d c,
s c in the d c between the shells.
Run the ribbon through the open spaces of the
first row, and make a bow at each corner.
This requires a little more than one skein of Shet-
land floss. (See directions for bean stitch, page 44.)
Chain 34, join. Work 14 rounds of bean st. at end
of each round work a s c in first bean of round, then
turn. Work 2d round with pink.
l^th round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c
in next bean *. Repeat.
l6th round. — A bean in each d c.
ipli round. — A s c in each st, working 3 s c in 8th
and I2th beans. Turn.
i8th round. — Single crochet in s c, working 3 s c
in I between widenings. Turn. Always t.ike liack
loop of St.
iQth round. — In this round widen by making 2 s c
in every alternate st in space between widenings of
20///, 2/j7 rounds. — Single crochet in each s c.
221/ round. — Increase 6 sts arounil to(_-.
2jrf, 2.jth. 2~illt. 26tli rounds. — Like 20th round.
Around top work loops, as before.
To make sole. — Chain 6. work 5 rows of s c, wid-
ening I st at end of each row by putting 2 s c in
Two rows plain. Four rows, widening i st at end
Two rows plain. Six rows, narrowing i st at end
of each. One row plain.
With needle and wool sew in sole. Run ribbon
The model was in cream Saxony with a tiny blue
stripe, and blue edge. Work an easy chain about
24 inches long, it must be full long to fit on the
Jst row — Double crdchet.
2(/ row — Three ch to stand for first stitch. I d c
in next * I ch, miss a st. I d c in next; repeat from
* and put an extra d c at the eml to strengthen the
;>,d row — Three ch to begin, i d c in every st,
working into ch as if it was a d c.
4?/; rozc — Three ch to begin, d c in everv st.
5//; rozc — Like 4th.
6//1 roze — Increase by putting 2 sis in every loth
7//1, Sth and ()th rows — Plain (that is, without in-
lo'/i row — Increase hv putting 2 sts in every nth
ii//(, 12/'/! and 13//! rows — Plain.
This is far enough for a placket to suit some;
if it is required longer increase in every 12th st,
then work one, two or three plain rows, as wished.
last St. Work 4 rows plain, then 2 rows, narrowing As soon as the placket is long enough unite in a
at end of each bv taking 2 sts together. round and work the star stitch.
Chain 3, work a row of stars and join at end
of row by slipping the hook througli tiie top of
the first star of row, before finishing the final
■ch, then finish the ch in the usual way. Any way
will do, but this is a trifie snugger than some ways.
The 2d and 3d rows are like the ist.
4th roinid — Like 2d except that you increase
every I2th star, putting three stars where there
were but two in the previous row. This is man-
aged by working the star sts a little closer and
seeing that the last stitch of the last of the increase
stars is in the eye of the last of two stars be-
low. After this row you probably will not
need to increase again, but if you feel it would be
best, it is done as shown. Work 2 rows of l.ilue
when the petticoat is about 9 or 9 1-2 inches deep,
and then work on till the petticoat is a trifle shorter
than you wish it to be (about 10 1-2 inches for a
baby up to a year), when you work a row of close
edge around, working in blue.
Edge. — Work a d c in the e3'e of a star ; * work
2 d c in the next eye of a star, 3 ch, l s c in the
top of the last d c, I more d c in the same eye (3
d c in all, with a picot on top of 2d stitch), i s c
in the eye of the next star, and repeat from * all
around. Crochet a border around the placket hole,
run in ends, and sew the petticoat to a bodice.
This same petticoat, worked in four- fold zephyr
or good Germantown, made a trifle longer and tied
round the waist loosely with a ribbon, was used
with excellent results by a mother for putting on
the baby when going out in the baby-buggy to
"keep the lower part of the body warm. It was an
easy matter to slip it on and off under its frock.
Baby's Bed Socks
Materials. — One skein of white zephyr and 1'2 skein of ])iiik
To begin the upper part make a chain of 68 sts.
1st roiv. — Always skip the first st, take I st up from
each of the ne.xt 39 ch. leaving all on hook ; going
back chain off 12.
2d roK'. — Take 11 sts up from the last 11 of the
12 sts chained off in the former row and 4 sts from
the chain, then chain off 20 going back and crochet
5th and 6th and also 15th and l6th sts together.
_?(/ roiv. — Take up 2i sts and chain off 26 going
back, narrow on each side of the 8 middle sts.
^th and fjth rows. — Same as 3d row, going for-
ward take up 4 sts from the chain, going back chain
oft' 4 more at the other end.
6th to i6th rows. — Proceed as before, but in the
9th row chain 3d and 4th and also 3d and 4th to the
last together as I, and from 13th to i6th rows work
each half separately.
Next work a row at the top consisting of I ch in
every st in the former row, turn the work around,
ch 3 and work a row of d c. I in each ch. at the end
turn the work again and work 3 ch, go back with a
row of d c as before.
To make the turn-over, work on the wrong side
only, breaking the wool at the ends.
Baby's Bed Sock
1st roiv. — Fasten the white zephyr and ch 3, *
take I stitch up from the next and another from
the one following and draw wool through these
two, then draw it through the 2 sts on the hook and
ch I. repeat from *.
2d to jth roti's. — As 1st row, the 2d and 4th rows
to be worked with colored wool. Work scallops
around the edge as follows: ch 5, i ch in the first
one, draw wool through the 2 sts on hook and
work I ch into every other one in the former row.
Work a star with colored wool on the front of the
shoe. Then make a chain string for tying the shoe,
draw it through the first row of d c at the top of the
shoe. Trim the ends of this chain with little balls
made of both colors of the wool.
The sole is composed of 21 rows. Begin with 8
ch and add one st on each side in the second row.
In the 9th row narrow one on each side and in the
1 2th row again add one. In the 20th row narrow
I to shape the toe. At last work a row of ch around
the sole : then take the colored wool and connect the
upper part and the sole with ch sts worked on the
These pretty little socks are made with two
colors of fine Saxony wool. Pink and white are the
colors used for the model ; pink for the slipper part,
and white for the instep and leg. A scallop of pink,
also, finishes the top.
Begin at the ankle with the white, make a ch of
40 sts and join in a ring to first st, put the hook
through the 2d st of ch, wool over and draw it
through ; keep this st on the hook and take up 10
more sts in the same way. There will now be 12
sts on the hook, which are to be worked off 2 at a
time, by putting the wool over the hook and
drawing it through 2 sts, wool over and draw
it through 2 more, repeat until all are worked off.
Then insert the hook inider the first Httle perpen-
dicular bar made in the previous row, woo! over
the hook, draw it througli, pick up the 2d Httle bar,
wool over and draw it through as before ; so con-
tinue until there are again 12 sts on the hook, which
work off, 2 at a time, as in first row.
Make 12 rows of these little squares for the instep,
break off the wool, and begin at the back with pink
wool. Make a d c in each st all around the ankle
and instep, widening by jnitting in an extra d c at
each corner of the toe. The next row is made like
Now make two rows of d c without widening.
Then two rows more which are to be narrowed by
missing a st at each corner of the toe and in the
middle of the l>ack. Turn the slipper wrong side out,
and crochet the edges together along the bottom of
the foot, with s c.
For the straps across the instep, with the pink wool
make a ch of 9 sts. make a d c in the fourth st from
the hook, a d c in each of the 5 remaining ch, then,
beginning on the right-hand side, make a d c in
each d c around the ankle, leaving the white ch on
the inside ; make another ch of g sts at the other side
of slipper and work back on it with d c. break off
the wool and fasten the ends on the inside. M.ake
a row of scallops around the top of slipper.
Now, with the white wool, make a d c in each
of the little white loops of the foundation ch.
Make 2 more rows of d c around the leg. Then
make a puff st in every other d c all around.
Puff st is ni;idc as follows: wool oyer llic hook,
insert hook in the work, wool over and draw it
through, draw the st out ■ j inch long, repeat twice,
when there will be 7 long sts on the hook, wool
over and draw it through all 7 sts at once, wool
over, draw it through the i st. For the 5th row
make a d c in each ch on top of the row of puff sts.
Make l more row nf d c. then a row of puffs, 2 rows
of d c, a third row of puff's, and finish with a row
of scallops in the pink wool.
Fasten the straps across the instep with a cord
and tassels made of the pink wool, or with a nar-
row pink ribbon.
M.MERiALs. — -\ full !i.iIf-oiijice of crc.iin and a full half-ounce
of liaby piuk Sa.Kony; a No. 14 hnnc hook, or a hook which will
iii.ikr a stitch about 1-7 of an inch long, and a "short" quar-
tci nf an inch deep.
Use cream wool and make J I easy chain. Turn,
miss I ch, work a d c in each of the remaining 20
j(/ rozc. — ( )nc ch tii turn. I d c in the back loop
of each of the 20 sts.
Repeat the second row till ij rows are done; the
work will be in ridges.
Now make 13 easy ch, miss 1 and work _^4 sts.
2d roi\.'. — Make i ch to turn, and work 34 sts.
Keep up the ridges throughout.
Repeat the 2d row till you have 12 long rows.
Now break off the wool and then work the second
side of the ankle like the first on 20 sts. When the
12 rows are done, always keeping up the ridge
character, break off the wool, leaving an end, and
sew the two sides of the liack together.
.Voii' make the foot. — Use the pink wool; make a
d c in the seam, make 14 d c along six ridges, 14 d c
along the instep, I d c in the corner, 5 on the
ridges across the toe; i in the ne.xt corner, 14 on
the second side of instep and 14 along ridges at the
bottom of the leg, altogether 64 sts. Join to the first
stitch and work three more rounds, joining each
round as completed on 64 sts.
5//; round. — One ch to begin, work 28 d c down one
side, take 2 d c together and work I over it, work the
3 in the middle of the toe, take 2 together, and work
the remaining 2^ and join. This decreases 2 sts.
6th round. — Plain, without decrease.
yth round. — Plain, till you come to within 2 sts of
the centre 3. take those 2 together, work the centre 3
as usual, then decrease again; finish the round and
join on the centre st, wliich was made over the sew-
ing up the back. There should be 60 sts, inchuliug
the one made at the back, on which you do the join-
ing of the round.
Sth round. — Make 2 ch, 3 d c, decrease, then
work around till 5 sts are left; decrease; work the
3 sts and join to the 2 cli. ( If you find that i ch
makes a better joining st in your style of work,
only make i ch ).
Qth roi:ud. — Make the ch, 2 d c, decrease, I st
in each st till within 2 of the centre 3 at toe, decrease,
work the centre 3, and work the other half of the
round to match that first done, join as usual.
loth round. — Two ch, I d c, decrease, work a d c
in every st till there is only i st unworked between
the worked side ami the central 3 at the toe; take the
unworked st and one of the central 3 together, work
the middle st of the central 3, then narrow by takin.t;
2 together ; work down the side, till there are only 3
sts left. Take 2 together, work the last st in the
ordinary way and join to the first stitch of the round,
which is the small crochet chain made at beginning.
Join neatly up the middle of the sole without draw-
ing the sts tiglit.
Edge Round Top of Leg. — Use pink wool, and
holding the wrong side of the sock toward you,
make a d c in the seam at the back ; * then make 2
ch. 5 tr, in the next depression between ridges, 2 ch,
I d c in the next depressed ridge, and repeat from *.
This is the style of work, but get 8 scallops in the
2d round of top. — Still use pink wool and n^ake a
d c in the back loop of the first tr of the first group;
one d c in back of next st, * 3 ch. i d c in next st ;
repeat from * once, then make a d c on tlie last tr in
Edge each scallop the same way. Then tack the
scallops down lightly and loosely all round.
For Strap. — Still use the pink wool, make 3 ch.
1st roiv. — Miss i ch, make a d c in each of the two
2d rozv. — One ch to turn, i d c in the back loop
of each st.
Repeat the 2d row till 38 or 40 rows are done, or
until the strap will go comfortably round the ankle.
Then leave a pretty long end of wool, and crochet
a tiny chain for a buttonhole, fastening the end of
the chain neatly to the strap.
Turn in the other end neatly or crochet a tiny bit
to strengthen where the button is sewn on, hut be
sure not to make it clumsy. There may be 3 sts in
width in this strap. Of course in this case make 4
ch to begin.
Baby's Bath Robe
Materi.\ls. — Eleven skeins of white .ind l of pink or blue Ger-
mantown, and a medium-sized bone hook.
This robe is large enough for a baby six months
old. If a larger or smaller robe is desired, in-
crease or decrease the number of stitches to begin
at the neck, and also the numlier of stitches in the
Begin at the neck with a chain of 70 stitches of
the white Germantown, turn and work a half-
double in each st of the ch. To make a half-double
throw wool over hook, take up a st, then draw
wool through 3 sts on the hook.
2d row — Chain 3, take 2 sts in the 3 ch, i in
top of last h d c and I in each of the next 2 sts,
making 5 on the hook for the first star. For the
second star take a st in side of the star, i in h d c
below and in each of next 2 sts. Work 11 stars,
widen. 14 stars, widen, 11 stars.
T,d rozv — Turn and work a h d c in the eye of
each star and in the 2 sts at the top of each.
ISabv's Bath Rore
To widen this row work 2 h d c in each side of
the widened star of the previous row.
4//; rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 7
stars, widen. 7 stars, widen, 2 stars, widen, 1 1 stars.
~,th rozv — Same as 3d row.
Gtli rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 3 stars, widen,
work across tlie l)ack. widen, 3 stars, widen, 11 stars.
///; rozv — Same as 3d and 5th rows.
8//( rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 12
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 5 stars, widen, 11
stars. In this row the widening in middle of back
gth rozv — Same as 3d, 5th, and 7th rows.
10//! rozv — Eleven stars, widen, 6 stars, widen, 12
stars, widen, 12 stars, widen, 6 stars, widen, 11 stars.
nth rozv — Same as 7th row. These 11 rows fin-
ish the yoke to tops of the sleeves.
Begin at the right corner, work 11 stars, widen.
turn, ch 3, and work a row of h d e, then a row of
stars, then another of h d c until 5 short rows are
worked, fasten oft. Skip the li d c between the wi-
denings on the shoulder, fasten wool and work stars
across the back to first widening of left shoulder,
turn, and make 5 rows same as for front. Work
the left front same as the right.
Begin again at corner, work h d c to the first
arnihole. ch 12. work across the back, cli 12. work
to the end of row. Turn.
The following 40 rows are of stars and h d c
alternating, and in every alternate star row widen
one star under each arm and op.e in middle of back.
To keep the front edges even, widen a h d c at the
end of each row.
For the sleeve take up 25 stars around the arm-
hole, fasten last to the first, turn for the h d c rows.
Make the sleeve 12 rows long. W'itli the pink work
a row of h d c in eyes of the stars, to draw in the
sleeve into cuff. Work two more rows with the
pink, then finish the edge with a scallop of the
white. Work the second sleeve same as the first.
With the pink begin at the right corner at neck
and work a row of double crochet with i ch be-
tween across the neck. Work h d c down the front,
across the bottom, and up the right front. Turn
and work another row of h d c around the garment.
Place close enough together to make the work lie
flat. With the white yarn work a row of shells
(6 d c fastened with single crochet) all around the
garment and across the neck.
Make a twisted cord of pink and white to run
through the neck. Make a ball for each end.
Materi.\ls. — Four balls or sktiiis of white Pompadour wool, ^
balls of color desired. -■ yards of ribbon, bone crochetdiook.
With the white wool work a chain of 56 stitches,
turn and work a double crochet in Sth st from end
of ch, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d
St, ch 3, skip 2 sts of ch and work d c in 3d st ;
continue in this way along ch, ending with a d c in
1st st of ch. Vou will then have seventeen squares
Sh.VPE of B.ABY'S NlGHTIXfi.-M.E
through which ribbon is to be run to tie around
neck. (See illustration.) Chain 4, turn and work
shell of 3 d c in ist square, ch 2 and work shell in
2d square, ch 2 and work shell in 3d square,
ch 2 and work shell in 4th square, ch 2 and work
shell in 5th square, ch 2 and work another shell in
5th s(|uare. Continue in this manner across, work-
ing double shells in the 9th and 13th squares, so that
work will form a square as shown in cut. After
working shell in last square, ch I and work an
extra d c in s(iuare. Chain of 4. turn and work
shell lietween the e.xtra d c and shell in preceding
row. Continue across, working a shell in ch be-
tween shells of preceiling row, working double shells
for widening at the same point as in previous row.
Continue in this manner until you have fifteen rows
Border. — .Start at one side of front with colored
woi>l anil wiirk I row across, then i row of
white, I row of color, I row white, ending with
I row of color, being sure to work the double shells
at same place to keep it square.
CoLi..\K. — Work in same manner as the body. I
row of white in the squares at neck, working double
shells in same squares as for body. I row of color,
I row white. I row color, i row white, ending with
I row color,
Edi.e .Arouxd Nir.HTixG.\LE. — Start at one of the
points with white wool and between double shells
work a shell of 7 d c. fastening with s c in next
square, shell of 7 d c in next square, continue in
this manner around nightingale, having a shell at
each point. Finish the shells with picot edge of
the colored wof)l. Tie how of ribbon on ist and
3d points at the double shells between 3d and 4th
row from bottom. Tie first point together between
3il and 4tli rows from bottom at the 8th shell on
each side from point to form sleeve. Tie 3d point
in same manner, the middle point being centre of
back. Rnn ribbon through squares at neck and
leave ends to tie.
Use white Saxony and a line bone hook. The
mittens are made throughout in single crochet by
taking the front part of the stitch and working
around and around.
Begin with chain of 46 closed to form a ring.
Work two rows of s c. then a row of double crochet
to run ribbon through. Work eight more rows of
s c, which brings the work to base of the thumb.
In the next row begin widening for the thumb by
placing 2 stitches in one. In the following seven
rows widen 2 sts, one each side of the thumb in
each row. The 16 widened sts form the thumb.
Fasten the last and first one together and crochet
the thumb. To narrow off the thumb take 2 sts in
one to narrow, leaving the thumb the desired
Fasten on the wool for the hand, and work eight
rows before tlie narrowing begins. To narrow off
the tip, narrow a st on each side in every alternate
row for eight rows, then narrow three or four in
each row until the sts are all narrowed off. The
worker can tell how often to narrow to shape the
Crochet two rows of shells across the top with a
ch of two fastened into each st of the last row of
shells. Run baby ribbon through the row of d c
in the wrist. The mittens can be made larger by
beginning with more stitches, and widening more
for the thumb.
This reqm'res about one skein Shetland floss.
Chain 28, join. (See directions for bean stitch,
page 44. )
1st round. — Work around in bean st.
2d round. — With pink work around in bean st.
jrf, 4tlt, f,th rounds. — Bean st with white.
6tli round. — Double crochet in bean, * ch i, d c
in ne.xt liean *, repeat.
pit round. — A bean in each d c.
Stii round. — Single crochet in each st except in
centre of round, work 2 s c in a st, I s c in next, 2
s c in next, turn.
p/A round. — Single crochet in s c, taking back
loop of st, turn at end of each round.
lOtli round. — Single crochet in s c, widening as
before, leaving 3 sts between widenings.
Ilth round. — Single crochet in s c.
I2th routid. — Like loth round, having 5 sts be-
l^th round. — Single crochet in s c.
i^tli round. — Single crochet in s c at 1st widen-
ing, ch 3, miss 9 sts between widenings for thumb.
Work 8 rounds plain, working s c on 3 ch.
2jd round. — Narrow every 9th st. Continue nar-
rowing in same place in every round till closed.
Join wool to thumi) ; work 7 rounds, then nar-
row every 3d st, continue narrowing in same place
in each round until closed.
Around wrist work loops, s c in st, ch 3, miss i,
s c in next. Run ribbon through at wrists.
This sack is designed for a year-old child, and
takes five skeins of white Saxony. If color is
desired, as shown in the illustration, one skein
will be required. The yoke is made in rib-stitch and
with the long shoulder effect. Start at the neck
with ch 51.
1st roii' — Twelve s c in 12 ch, beginning on jd
ch. Increase in next ch by working 3 s c in l ch st ;
now 24 s c for back, increase on next ch; now 12
s c for front.
2d rote — Chain i, s c in each s c to the in-
crease. Increase in first and last st of the increase
and plain between. This makes the shoulder-piece
between the increases. Single crochet to the next in-
crease and do the same here. Finish off the row with
s c. Repeat this row until the yoke is deep enough,
which should be when there are 8 or 9 ribs done.
For the long shoulders, work back and forth be-
tween the increases over the shoulders, missing
a st at the end each time until only a s c remains.
The sleeves are worked on these extended points.
Connect corners by ch 6 for under the arm, and
work around with d c for first row.
2d ro7v. — Make 3 ch. now a st like this: Wool
over the hook, bring up a loop around a d c and
draw it out about three-quarters of an inch, repeat
once more, then wool over the hook and draw
through all the loops, now I ch ; this completes the
stitch. Make this stitch into every other d c.
3d rozv — Chain 3 and now the same st into each
st of previous row, making them around 4 of the
top loops. This is to raise them. Make the sleeve
13 rows in length, then work on the cuff' of 4 ribs.
Edge this with a rufHe of 4 d c in every other s c,
with a 3-ch picot between.
Work the skirt of the sack the same as the
sleeves. 15 rows in length. Edge with a large scal-
lop at the bottom made with S d c and a 3-ch picot
betvveen, the remainder edge with a ruffle same as
Also work a ruffle at the edge of the yoke.
If a color is used for yoke and cuffs, then all the
rufifles and scallops are edged with 3 ch and si sts
This bootee is made of twofold Saxony and is
widened on top like a slipper. The top of the foot,
however, is not ribbed, as it is crocheted around
and around, making the sole as well as the upper.
Chain 13, around which make a row of s c,
widening 2 s c at each end of chain and at point half
way between on one side, taking up back part of st
only on upper side, and both parts on sole. Continue
thus widening for 5 rows, then widen in centre front
only 2 s c every other row for 14 rows, making 19
rows in all. Then work back and forth across sole,
taking up both sts of 20 s c for 14 rows, then leav-
ing oft' I s c at each end of next 4 rows, fasten wool
and clip. Tie wool in at centre point in front, ch 18,
on which make 16 s c, which brings you to front part
already crocheted. Work on down to sole, catching
into sole by si st, turn and work back to end. Con-
tinue around the sole, working up and down, taking
up back st and catching into sole, so that the rows
of top will correspond to rows of sole; the model
has 25 ribs or 50 rows.
Run ribbon through at ankle and finish top with
Take a large ball of yarn, or a very thin rubber
one. Commence the cover of worsted by making
a ch of 4 sts ; join in a circle, and work in tr st, in-
creasing at regular intervals until the work is large
enough to cover one-half the ball; then work a few
rows without increasing, draw the cover over the
ball, letting the wrong side of the work be outside,
and work the other half to correspond with the first
half, decreasing at regular intervals and putting tlie
hook in from the inside. A pattern of bright
flowers worked with worsted round the centre adds
greatly to the attractiveness of the ball to a child.
Materials. — Five skeins of white Spanish yarn, i ball of knit-
ting silk, 5 yards No. i^ ribbon, i^ yards No. 12 rib-
bon, 6 fancy pearl Inittons and 1 yard of silk cord. A
This cloak is for a child one year old, in short
Begin at the neck with a chain of 112 stitches.
Work a s c in 2d St from the hook, and in next 2
stitches, 3 s c in the next, s c in each of next 3 stitches
of chain, * skip I ch, 3 s c, 3 s c in next, 3 s c and
repeat from * to end of the chain, thus starting 14
points for the yoke. Chain 2, turn, work s c in
each s c of the first row, taking back of the stitch.
Repeat until the yoke is 18 rows deep, placing 3
sts in the point in every alternate row.
The body is attached to the under side of the
yoke, under the points. Instead of working the first
row around the points, go straight across diagonally.
Begin at the corner of the front, and work d c for
the first row, placing them close enough so the work
will not draw in. Chain 3, turn, work a star over
every 2 d c to the middle of the space between the
2d and 3d points of yoke, skip the 3d, 4th and 5th
points for the sleeve, working the next star in the
middle of the space between the 5th and 6th points,
work stars across the back to the middle of the space
between the 9th and loth points, skip loth. nth
and I2th points for the other sleeve and work next
star in middle of space between the 12th and 13th
points, finish to the corner of yoke. Chain 3, turn,
d c in eye of the last star, then d c back in the 2 st
at the top of the last star, thus making a small stack
stitch. Repeat the stacks to the end of the row,
placing one over each star. The next row is of
stars, placing a star over each stack, and widen-
ing a star under each arm and in middle of the back.
To widen work a star between 2 stars without tak-
ing any stitches of the row preceding. The body is
all made of these 2 rows until it is the desired length,
widening as in the preceding row in every alter-
nate star row. Work a row of s c across the bot-
tom, then break the wool and fasten to the upper
corner of the left side of yoke and work a row of
s c across the fronts and the bottom.
Fasten the wool in the lower side of the armhole
and work a row of 26 stars for the sleeve. Sleeves
are made same as the body, working 10 rows, then
join the edges. Begin the cuff by a s c in every alter-
nate stitch of last row, work around for 4 rows,
then a row of d c, with 2 ch between for the ribbon,
and finish witli a row of shells, each of 6 d c, joined
by s c.
Begin at the right corner for the collar, working
a row of d c with 2 ch between for the ribbon. Turn,
ch 3 and work a row of stars by placing a star over
each stitch beneath instead of over every 2 stitches,
thus making the fullness for rounding the collar.
The next row is stacks, then a star row, then an-
other stack row. Finish the collar and each side of
the front with a row of shells, each of 6 d c joined
l)y s c. and made close enough to round the cor-
ners of the collar nicely. Edge the yoke around the
points with shells, then finish the shells of yoke,
collar, fronts, and sleeves with knitting silk, by
chaining 3 and joining by s c in each st of shells.
Run the narrow ribbon through the spaces made
by the widenings in each point and leave a loop and
end at each point. Use the wider ribbon for ties,
running it through the spaces at the neck.
Sew three buttons on each side to a tape on the
underside, and make loops of the cord for fasten-
Materials. — One skein of pink Ciennantown, a part of a skein of
pink Saxony for the border, and i yard of i-inch ribbon. The
soles are No. 7. To make the work firm use a rather fine hook.
Begin at the toe with a chain of 15 stitches.
Turn and single crochet in each of the first 7
sts, 3 s c in the next st, 7 s c. For the second rozij
work a s c in each s c of the first row. The whole
slipper is worked in s c taking the back part of the
stitcli each time. The \\ iilening is in the middle
s c of every alternate row, until there are 18 ribs
for the front of the sliiiper. Work iS sts for the
siile. and crcjchct back and forth until there are iS
ribs on one side. W Urk the other side same as the
first, antl crochet the ends together at the back.
For the border fasten the Saxony at the back of
the slipper and work a row of treble crochet (t c).
one in each rib around the top. At the lower edge
of the t c row work a rciw by chaining 6 and fas-
tening between the rilis. W'urk a row of shells,
each of 4 d c in the t c row. then another row of
shells between these shells, and at the outer edge
ch 2 and fasten into each st of the last shell row.
Double the toe and fasten to form a bo.x. Sew the
slipper to the sole and run the ribbon through the
spaces at the top, tying in a bow in front.
Hood for Child of Three Years
>I.\TERi.\i-s.— Three and one-Iialf skeins of Germantown zepliyr of
one color, and i skein of a Iiarnionizing shade for trimming.
Note. — Tlie rows of star stitcli only are counted in making tliis
Froxt Piece. — Chain 81, on which work 39 stars
of 5 stitches. Chain 2, turn, taking up back st of
stars, work row of single crochet, 2 sts to i star.
Chain 3, turn, work an e.xtra star at each end of
row. Work 5 rows of stars, alternating with s c,
increasing i star at each end of each row of stars.
B.\CK. — Chain 49, on which work 23 stars, turn,
crochet row of s c. Work 9 rows of stars, alternat-
ing with s c. io//( rozt.' — Skip I star at each end.
Skip I star at each end of every 2 rows until you
have 13 stars. Then skip I star at each end of next
_' rows. Skip 2 stars at each end of next row. Then
! until you have only 3 stars left, which should be
22 rows. The other side is worked the same, start-
ing with a row of s c on back side of ist row of
stars, turning, crochet row of stars.
To Put Together. — The points of front go to the
face. Sew front and back together, joining one
side of back from point at each end to front for
five inches; then gather fulness to remaining front.
Ihe other side of back gather to fit the back of
head. F'inish edge of hood with row of hairpin-
work of color and make three rosettes for front
and three for back bv winding wool over fingers
and tying in centre, mixing the shades of wool to
suit. Sew rosettes in place.
Hood for Chilu of Three Years
Made of Germantown in 5-stitch star stitcli. It takes from 2
to 3 skeins of cream and one of a contrasting color.
Chain 5. Ski]) the ch st next to the hook and
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way,
making 4 sts on the honk. These sts must be quite
loose and the saiue length. Throw over the wool
and take all 4 sts otY together, and finish the star
by ch I to hold it together. Xow insert the hook in the
first st of the star going down the side, it being a
short stitch and called the eye of the star, draw the
uiiol through, then through next st of the star, it
bring a long one, then through st where last st of
previous star was made: draw wool through all 4
sts together, ch I. Repeat until you have 7 stars
of 4 sts each, the 4th st always being put in the
same place, which makes a circle. Fasten together
by si st, ch 3, In succeeding rows this 4 st star is
used to widen, all other stars having 3 sts.
2(/ rozi.'. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which
makes 3 loops on hook, draw wimiI through long st
on top of star of |ireceding row, then through short
st or eye of the star, making 5 sts on the hook, take
off all 5 together, ch i, Xow make a 4 st star as
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and
so continue f<ir balance of row, widening every other
31/ loze. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas-
ing I star between widenings until you widen every
7 stars, which will be 8 rows. Crochet 8 rows with-
out wiilening. which finishes the crown. Then turn
and crochet the brim so the right side of brim will be
to the wrong side of crown. Widen in first row
every 6 stars, increasing I star between widenings
for 7 rows, counting the first, when yon will widen
every 12 stars. The next 4 rows are made without
widening, the first two being of white and bkie
stars ahernating, and the next two rows of tlie
To iiuikc the two rows of alternate blue and while
jiars. — Commence row witli a white star ; insert the
hook through the eye of the star and draw tlie bhie
wool through in a loop, leaving enough of the end
on the wrong side so it won't pull through, finish
up the blue star, the top loop of which will be white,
drop the blue wool at back of work and pick up
the white wool, insert the needle in the eye of the
blue star and draw the cream wool through and
finish the star as before. Proceed as before, always
dropping tlie wool just used behind and in such a
way tiiat it will not become tangled. Start in on
the 2d row with a star of l:>lue over the white, being
careful to keep them in this manner, one color over
Finish with blue picot etlge as follows: Chain 4
s c into point where ch st started, ch 3, skip Imig si
of the star and s c into eye of it, ch 3, s c into same
stitch; ch 3, skip long st of the star, s c into eye, ch 3,
s c into same st, and repeat.
Line the wrong side of brim and crown with silk
with interlining of canvas. Tack in shape with
rosettes, which in the illustration are of staple
work. Ties of rilibon or an elastic, as preferred, are
Materials. — Five skeins zci)liyr, lo yards b.iby ribbon, and
I yard of wide ribbon for ties.
Chain 5. Skip the ch st ne.xt to the hook and
draw the wool through the 2d, keeping both sts on
the hook. Take up the 3d and 4th sts the same way,
making 4 sts on the hook. These sts must be quite
loose and the same length. Throw over the wool and
take all 4 sts off together, and finish the star by ch 1
to hold it together. Now insert the hook in the ist
st of the star going down the side, it being a short st
and called the eye of the star, draw the wool through,
then through next st of the star, it being a long one,
then through st where last st of previous star was
made; draw wool through all 4 sts together, ch I.
Repeat until you have 7 stars of 4 sts each, which
makes a circle. Fasten together by si st, ch 3. In
succeeding rows this 4 st star is used to widen, all
other stars having 5 sts.
2(1 row. — Draw wool through 2d and 3d ch which
makes 3 loops on hook ; draw wool through long st
on top of star of preceding row, then through short
st or eye of star, making 5 sts on the hook, take off
all five together, ch i. Now make a 4 st star as
described above, the 4th st being taken in eye of
same star where 5th st of last star was taken, and
so continue for balance of row, widening every
3(/ rozv. — Widen every 2 stars, and so on, increas-
ing I star between widenings until you widen every
7 stars, which is 8 rows. Work 5 rows plain and
Dh'ide cro'vn in 4 parts, two opposite points being
front and back, and the other two ear points. The
last row, if widened correctly, should contain 56
stars, which, divided into points, would be 14 stars
between. Fourteen stars from where the wool was
clipped tie in the wool, and work row of d c around
crown, which commences the brim, and should be
made wrong side out. The entire brim is made of
d c. ^^'ith the 2d row of which widen J d c at two
apposite points, being front an<l back, for 2 rows,
then widen 4 at same points until you have 9 rows.
At ear points decrease 2 <1 c on the last 3 rows, and
finish edge with picot edge or scallops. Either
jf these two edges are very satisfactorv. Single
:rochet into top of iirst d c. ch 3, s c into top of same
1 c ; s c into top of next d c, ch 3, s c into top of same
1 c. Or s c into top of 1st d c, ch 3, s c into top of
iame d c, ch 3, s c into same place, ch 3, s c into same
jlace, making three loii]is of 3 ch sts each; skip I d c
uid s c into next, skip l d c and repeat the scallop.
\fter finishing the edge, turn the lirim back over
•ight side of crown and fasten puints at top with
"osette, also finishing at ear points with the same
These directions are for an infant's cap. To
■nlarge : In making the crown widen for 9 rows in-
;tead of 8, widening every 8 stars in 9th row. In
inishing the crown work d iir more plain rows in-
tead of 5. In making the brim divide as above and
viden just the same, but there will be more d c in
:ach division and two nmre rows must be wi irked
lefore putting on picnt edge.
crochet trinuning is all made and sewed on with the
sewing-machine close to the edge of the rings, and
around each stitching is placed a border of French
knots with mercerized cotton.
For the Froxt. — Sew twenty rings on the eigh-
teen-inch edge: place the rings half way over the
edge and sew half way around the rings. Four and a
half inches back place amither row of twenty rings,
Child's Cap and Bib with Crocliet
The cut shows a cap made of a piece of linen
ighteen inches long and six inches wide. The
* • vH
'''^-^^^. - ' -^
%' * mm
and sew this on both sides. Ddween these two rows
of trinuning jilace the five crochet iiiotifx at regu-
lar intervals; on the ends ]il;iee four or five rings
to fill up between the rows.
Make all the French knots and do the cutting out
before gathering the crown, (blather it around a
motif and sew the linen edges together as far as the
ring trimming. It is by far the nicest to gather
it on the ruftler and get it just the right size to fit
under the motif. It should h.ave the rings half way
over the edge of the g:ithers.
A pretty way to trim this cap is to make a big
bow of three-inch ribbon and i)lace it in the nape of
the neck, and run long ends through the rings for
tie-strings. Ruffle narrow lace and sew it on the
edge of the trimming all around the cap. Laimder
on the wrong side on very soft wool blanket.
Detail of Crochet AIotif used on Cap. — Wind
mercerized cotton ten times over the forefinger, slip
off, work 6 d c in the ring; * wind another ring
same size close to last st. fill thi> ring full of d c
and join neatly with si >t. six more d c on the first
ring; repeat from * untd you ha\-e six rings around
the centre ring, the last ring join to the first and
finish on the wrong side. The other rings are always
joined to the preceding at points where they touch.
It takes six of these motifs for the cap. The other
rings are wouml the same ami filled half, another
wound and filled half, and so on, then tnrned and
The Serviceable Bib is cut from very heavy
white vesting. Around the edge it is hemmed
on the machine and around the neck it is turned
under half an inch (it must be snipped nearly half
an inch rather close together before it can be
turned.) Over it run three times with the sewing-
machine one-eighth of an inch apart.
Sew on the ring trimming with the machine,
close to the edge of the rings,
trimming and around the neck
made with mercerized cotton,
and buttonhole or with tape.
Detail of Ring Trimming
cotton ten times over forefinger and crochet needle,
slip off, ch 3, work * 9 d c in the ring. For picot,
ch 5 and fasten back in to[) of last d c. Now fill
this tiny ring with S s c, work 9 more d c in ring;
this fills it half full. Wind another ring close to
last st, and repeat from * until long enough, then
work back and fill remainder of rings without mak-
ing the picrjts.
Baby's Carriage Afghan
Materials. — I'\tiir ounces white and j ounces of colored Sa.xony;
a long double crochet-hook, a short crochet-hook of the same
size. Fourteen yards of narrow satin ribbon to match the
colored wool. In afyhan stitch.
Border the edge of
with French knots
Close with button
1 01 sts with both wools. With the
oops; turn the work, and with the
Make a ch of
white raise 100
colored wool draw through 2 loops at a time till
all have been worked off. Break off the wool and
recommence at the beginning.
Work ~2 rows in this manner, always working in
the same direction.
Darn in the loose ends ., ,- , , . ....
of wool with a needle. *..'«,.».-■■. ••'•;'
This completes the centre. 'W,\'.'^ ,','■■'■'.'-- ■•
For the Border. — Hold- ' ^',i'. '.','. ■ ". ', ^ - ". . Li
ing the right side of
the work towards you.
with the white wool
and short hook work
in double stitch thus; i
d c in the ist st ; * put
the honk into the same
For the Scallops. — Upon the wrong side make 1
d c in the 1st st; * l ch, 5 long trebles, miss 2 sts, I
d c into the 3d st and repeat from *.
Run three rows of ribbon through the holes
formed by the double stitches, and make four
bunches of loops at the corners.
This pretty sack requires six skeins of white Shet-
land floss. Yoke in Russian crochet, skirt in bean
1st row. — Miss I, I s c in ne.xt, ch i, miss I, * 2
s c in next 2, 3 s c in next, 2 s c in next 2, miss 2;
repeat from * to end of row, ending with ch I, miss
I, I s c. Turn.
^d row. — Chain I, I s c in back loop of st, ch I, *
miss 2, s c in next, 2 in next, 3 in next, 2 in next, I
in next; repeat from * ending with ch l, miss 2, I
s c. Continue working until there are 12 rows,
widening in each row by making 3 s c in centre of
each point, and in every alternate row, 2 s c in st
each side of point.
Skirt. — ijitli row. — Work across in bean st.
To make beau stiteli. — * Miss 2 sts, insert hook in
next, draw wool through, wool over, draw another
loop through same st, over, another loop through
same st, over, and draw through all 6 loops, ch I.
Repeat from *, turn. In making following rows,
work last bean, at end of each row, in the two end
sts of bean of previous row.
14th /'Oil'. — Bean st as in 13th row, exce[)t miss
iiiilv I st aroimd 2 points, ch 20. miss 2 points, beans
• •.»>*.*•. A ,»« .f.r '-r V r ■
' .-^ ,f^ f%-*-* f J > • -- - i
• ■»■•'» -•> 1 ft ( t-f
• ^ ■# !» • * > •
■*;» ^-t *:• ^
'/ 9 *• » * * ^ » »«■**■.♦ t ^ ^ _f .* * * ^'i *
,.. w'.^ ^ *:» • > * » * ' t * • - .-tp't... » ■
1 be ^1 Ic
on the hook ; w o o 1
over anil draw the
wool through all the
loops at once. Repeat
from *. Work three
more rows of d c.
■'*••»*-•* **r' ''"1* ' ■* ^
.Section of Baiiv's Carriage Afghan
Bai'.v's Sai k
l>cans ;icrijss chains
across 5 points cli 20, miss 2 points, beans across 2
ifitli rOi^'. — When workin
miss 2 sts between beans.
Work 2/ rows, always missing the ist space be-
tween beans. Now with pink crochet a row of beans
down fronts and around bottom, working 3 beans in
I at corners; turn.
With white, work 3 rows of bean st on fronts and
bottom, always working 3 beans
in one at corners. With white, s
c in St. ch 3, miss l. s c in next,
.•\rolxi) Xeck. — 1st rcti'. —
Single crochet in point, ch 4. s c
in ne.xt point; repeat around.
2d ro-n'. — Two s c in 2 sts. 3 s c
in ne-\f, * 4 s c in next 4 sts, 3 s c
in next ; repeat.
?rf roiv. — A s c in each st,
working 3 s c in i at each point.
4tli row. — With pink work
around in bean st, missing 2 sts
between beans, though always
working a bean in point.
5//1 row. — With white work
round in bean st and loops as
For Sleeve. — Work 25 rounds of bean st. turn-
ing at end of each round and keeping sleeve closed.
Treble crochet in bean. * ch i. tr c in next bean. *
repeat; turn. Another round of bean st, then a
round of pink, one round white, then loops as be-
fore. Run ribbon around neck and wrists.
arcjumi the neck it is worked
from tlie l)oltoni of the yoke
across the shoulders; each
shoulder lieing worked in a
point. This is a simpler way
of making a yoke than the old
way. for in this there are no
increases to make.
Licgin the yoke u ith 60 loose
ch. which exleud across the
shouliler, 3 ch e.xtra to turn.
In the 41 li ch make this new
ami on;.;inal rili slitch: * wool
o\ er hook, draw up a loop 1-2
inch long, W(ioI over hook,
draw up another loop same
size, wool over hook, draw up
another loop same size, wool
over hook, draw up another loop same size, now wool
over and draw tb.rough all but the last loop on the
hook, wool over and dr.aw' through the two loops
and pull up the wool tight, now i ch. This is one
st and is repeated from * in every second ch. mak-
ing 30 sts in the row.
2d roi^' — Three ch to turn. The sts are made the
same as in first row. but are plac-d differently.
Tn place of going in a ch yon make the loops aroimd
Materials. — Six skeins of Sa.xony were used in tlie miMltl.
which is large enough for a child one year old or proi)ahly
older. .\ bone crochet-hook that slants to a point is used,
as the skirt is made mostly in Relief Crochet.
In this sack the yoke extends below the arm-
holes, and in place of being worked back and forth
the top of each st ; this is done by inserting the
hook on the right side of st and bringing it out on
left side of st, and bring the loops through this
l)lacc ; this makes the heavy rib. Two rows make
one rib and each row must have 30 sts. Repeat
the 2d row until you ha\e three full ribs for the
Now for back of neck work 14 sts. one rib and
a half, add 32 ch loosely for right front, three extra
to turn, work 30 sts again until there are 8 whole
ribs on the back yoke. Break wool and fasten at the
To work the fronts, make 14 sts, 2 ribs for each
front. For the under-ann, work 4 sts in length two
rows or one rih at either the front or back yoke,
and join it to make the annhole. To make the
extension shoulders, begin 2 sts away from the
short rib and work back and forth, missing two
sts at the start and the end of each row until to a
point. A little over two ribs brings it to the point.
l-or the skirl, start with right side toward you,
the side that counts whole ribs. Always begin row
with 3 ch, 2 d c in each row, working the d c around
the st to give a good strong body,
in the centre of each rib make
a Rose Treble Shell of 4 sts. *
Work this stitch by winding 18
times over hook, insert in rib,
Jjring wool through, wool over,
and draw through 2 loops, wooi
over and draw through 2 loops,
wool over and draw through the
rest of the coil, wool over and
draw througli i loop and pull up
wool tight to curl the coil. Re-
peat the detail from * for each
stitch in shell. This row has 20
shells with 4 doubles between
2d row — Chain 3. d c in eacli d
c, and in shells work ch 2, a d c in centre of shell,
ch 2, a d c in same place, ch 2, then d c in d c
31/ row — Same as first, only there is a different
foundation now. The d c are made in the d c and
the shells in the centre of 2 chain in centre of shell.
Alternate the 2d and 3d rows until there are 7
shell rows; btU in the 4th shell row use five Rose
Treble, in the 5th the same, in the 6th use 6, and
in the 7th use 7, and in this last use s c over the
d c ill place of d c.
The sleeves are made like the skirt. Regin on
the under arm, manage to work around so you
get six shells in the row and so you get a shell
on the point of shoulder. Work the collar and
front scallops to correspond.
Materi.vls. — Five ski-ins Saxony wool and r spool knitting silk,
with hook to correspond; - yards ribbon i inch wide.
Yoke. — Chain 88, ch i, turn, s c in each one of
the 88 ch.
2d ro'w — Chain i, s c in first 21 sts, taking up
back thread of st to form rib. Widen on 22d and
25th sts. Have 40 sts across back. Also widen on
22d and 25th sts from other side. Widen every
row, having first 4, then 6, 8, etc., across shoulders.
Be careful to keep 22 in fronts. Work 16 rows.
lyth roiv — Repeat i6th row until first point of
yoke is reached, then ch 15, and fasten across to
back point of yoke for arm-hole. This completes
Skirt. — i.y; rozv — Chain 3, d c in second st of
yoke, then d c across this into first st. This makes
a cross. Work n crosses across each front, 8
under arm, 20 across back.
2d row — Repeat ist row, working crosses directly
above those of last row.
3rf roK' — Widen 3 crosses on front, 5 on back.
4th row — Repeat 2d row.
5^/1 roiv — Widen 4 on fronts, 6 on back.
6th roiv — No widening.
yth rozi' — Widen 7 on fronts, 14 on back.
8th roil.' — Widen 7 on fronts, 18 on back.
Next 4 rows, no widening. Break wool.
Fasten wool on right corner of neck, ch 3, d c in
3d st of neck, ch i, long crochet in ne.Kt 3d st., etc.,
for beading. When left side of neck is reached,
work shells of 5 d c all aromid sack: at corners of
skirt, work shells of 10 d c.
Sleeves. — Join at front point of yoke, work
3 crosses, going into every st once, then 17, going
into every st twice, then 6 like first 3, one cross
above another under arm.
Work 17 rows, counting the first, one cross
above the other, then break wool.
18//) row — On tliis row leave nfi 4 crosses on each
side of seam.
igfh row — On tills row leave off 3 at each end of
20//1 row — On this row leave off 3 on each end
of igtli row.
21 sV row — Crosses all around.
22d ro7v — One cross above another for first 3,
then one above two for every other one, except
last 3 which are like first 3.
For the beading work treble crochet between each
space of 22d row.
24'/t roiv — Crosses all around, i for each tr of
2c,th roiv — Repeat 24th row.
26th rozv — Shells of 5 d c all around.
This completes the wool part.
Now with silk, and beginning at neck, ch 4. s c
between two sts of shell, ch 4, s c again, etc., around
sack. Without clipping the silk, pass to first rib
of yoke, s c in top of st, ch 2, s c in next. When
the end is reached, turn, and edge next rib the same
way. All the ribs can be edged without breaking
the silk. Finish the shells on the sleeves the same
as those around the sack. Run ribbon through
beading on sleeves, and tie in bow at back. Also
run ribbon through beading at neck. This little
garment will fit a baby under one year old. For
a child over one year, ch 100 at beginning, then
have 25 sts on each front, and 46 on back, with 2
on each shoulder.
Materials. — Three skeins of Iilue and i nf pink tuu-fnld S.Txnny,
a fine Ijone hook, and 4 yards of No. _■ jjiiik idilmii to m.iit h
tile i>ink Sa.xony.
Begin at the neck with a chain of 115 sts. Turn,
and in the 3d st from the ho(ik work a s c and s c
in each of next 2 ch, 3 s c in next st. * s c in next 7
sts, 3 s c in next, and repeat from * 14 times. 3 s c.
For next ro-K.'. — Chain 3. turn, s c in each of the
first 4 s c, * 3 s c in ne.xt. 4 s c, skip I s c, 4 s c. and
repeat from * across the row. Each succeeding row
of the voke is worked the same as the 2(1 row, the
3 s c for widening the point being put in the same
place in each row. but omit skipping i s c between
points. The voke has 16 points and is q ridges or 18
The body and sleeves of the sack are formed of
rows of d c and stack stitch — one of d c and two
of stack stitch, as seen in the illustration. Begin
the body of the sack at the left corner of the yoke,
inider the points in the 3d ridge, and work a d c
in each stitch, working straight across the point
and not following the ridge, the points thus lap-
ping over the body of the sack. For the row
I if stack stitch, turn, ch 3, ski[) 2 d c and work
d c in each of the next 3 d c. then, without
turning the hook, insert it in the first skipped d c,
and work d c in each of the 2 d c that were
skipped. This forms i stack. It will be seen that
the last 2 d c cross over the first 3 d c. Repeat
the stack 8 times, then turn, ch 3, and make a stack
over a stack liack to front edge. Work another
row of d c and 2 rows of stacks, then break the
wool. Skip 30 d c fur the left sleeve, fasten wool
and work stacks across the back (13 stacks), turn
and make another stack row. then a row of d c.
and two more stack rows, same as the front. Break
wool, skip 30 d c for the right sleeve and work the
right fnmt same as the left trunt. Turn, ch 3,
d c in each st of front, ch 4 untler the arm, d c
across the back, ch 4 under arm. d c across the left
front. Alternate the 2 rows (if slacks and I of d c
until the sack has 3 uKire dnuble rows of stacks
and 2 of d c.
Take up d c around the aniilmle for the sleeve
tile 1i.h1\- lit the sack until
Then W(irk .1 niw uf
an(J work same as fur
4 niws of (1 c and 4
rows (if stacks are
! c with 1 ch between
through whicli td run iberiblmn. [oin the pink wool
riiw (if lie.in st. '1
work bean stitch
piiMced .IS follows: Take up a
st (111 the Imok, wool over and
t.ike .iiKither s( in the same
pl.K'e, wiKiI (iver and take an-
ullier in the same place, thus
making d sts i^m the hook, and
ilraw' each out aliout 1-2 inch
l(ing, take a st through the 6
sts and fasten with a s c. This
makes one bean. Work I bean
in each of I ch. Join the blue
and work the cuff of s c for
8 rdws, then a row of holes
f(ir the ribbon. Work the
second sleeve same as the
Join the wool to the upper
corner of the left front and
work a row of d c with 2 ch
between all around the sack.
Fasten the pink at the lower
left corner and make a row
of bean stitch across the
bottom, I bean in each 2 ch, with j ch between.
With the l)hie work a shell of ( 2 d c. i ch, 2 d c)
in each of the 2 ch of pink row. Work another
row same as this one, shell in a shell. For the 3d
row of the bor-
der, work shell
of 8 d c in the
first shell be-
neath, j o i n
with s c in the
next shell, and
repeat a c ro s s
the row. Work
a row of shells
across the neck.
edges of the
sack, the sleeves
and the points
of the yoke with
a row of picots
worked of the
pink. A c r o s s
the bottom let
the pink chains
extend up be-
tween the scal-
lops, as seen in
must be loosely done to make this stitch effective.
Run the ribbon through the spaces, with bow'S on
the sleeves, and ends to tie at the neck.
end and catch in centre of 1st cluster with s c and
ch 3; this will keep front edges even. Make sack
19 rows deep.
Sleeves. — Connrience one stitch from centre of
Materials. One skein of pink or blue tliree-fold Saxony, 3
skeins of white two-fold Sa.xony. 3'j yards of nanow ribbon
to match colored wool, jiart ...f a spool of crochet silk to
match colored wool.
Chain 136. Work one row of single crochet on
the ch, turn.
■2d rozv — Thirty-six s c. taking up back of stitch
to form rib, work 2 sts in 37th and 40th sts, work
to within 40 sts of end. increase one in 40th st and
37th St from eiul, turn.
Always remember to ch I at end of each row-
in order to keep edge straight. Work back and
forth in s c, increasing one in each of the widening
points to form shoulder. W^ork 9 ribs or 18 rows.
With white wool work 11 clusters of 4 double
crochet across front, ch 3 inches, work iS clusters
of 4 d c across back, ch 3 inches, work 1 1 clusters
of 4 d c across other front, turn, ch i, catch into
centre of ist cluster with s c, ch 3. work 3 d c in
same st, work 4 d c in centre of each cluster across
front, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch, work across
back, work 6 clusters of 4 d c on ch. work across
front, turn. Always remember to ch i at each
shoulder and work 5 clusters of 4 d c across first
half of shoulder, wnrk 7 clusters of 4 d c under
arm. work 5 clusters of 4 d c across other half of
shoulder, turn, work across sleeve back and forth
for 15 rows.
With color, commence at corner of right front,
ch 4, work d c in 3d st, ch 2 and work d c in every
3d St. This will form a row of holes for running
the ribbon through. Work shell of 6 d c all around
sack and sleeves. Finish with crochet silk to match
colored wool, as follows: Chain 2 and with s c
catch into every stitch of shell. To form revers,
turn over fronts of sack the width of two clusters
and sew down the length of sack. Turn over two
clusters at bottom of sleeves and slope to one at
top. Lace sleeves together with narrow ribbon,
and make small Ijows at top and liottom of sleeves.
Steel Crochet-hooks, 5 cents each
Bone Crochet-hooks, 10 cents each
Wood Crochet-hooks, 10 cents each
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II a i-
Tlie l*ri>i-illa Manual
handln)<)k on Kaiir\ -work, (li
tlons loi KiiiMiiiL'. V\< 1-1 '.\
dani.'.M. Crurlu t. fro-- .► ;ui.l
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ho((ks and one ot Ihe hc>l e\er issued on
Krcnch I v :;.I.i.ki!. i \ and Kyelet Work, or
ihoilcni Mesiile^ instructions
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on 111 W'nik .Hid Shadow
.\ : written.
A II. There
:ii. ^ with les-
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'I'lu- Pi'i<teil1a < rochet Rook No. 1
( M»o:l) , ,iv,- ilhiviratcd inslructions
I' .1 faiiev articles, and
li r on <jlk imrv,--- and
I ! r ei<-e, '.jrV ^-ent-*.
Fancy Work Fo
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