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Full text of "The Priscilla filet crochet book; a collection of beautiful designs in filet crochet, equally adapted to cross-stitch, beads and canvas, with working directions"



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^risiciUa Jfilet Crocijet poofe 

A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL DESIGNS 
IN FILET CROCHET 



EQUALLY ADAPTED TO CROSS-STITCH 
BEADS AND CANVAS 

WITH 



Wotkin^ directions; 



BY 



BELLE ROBINSON 



PRICE. 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

tETfje $rt£;ciUa ^uiilifiitjing Company 

85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON. MASS. 



Copyright. 1911, by The PriicilU Publiihing Company. Botlon, Mau. 



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No. 1450. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery 

See Page 5 and Figs. 12, 13, 15, 16, 18 






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Fig. 2 

Working Model of Pattern Fig. 3 

It will always be one more than a multiple of 3, 
as 4, 7, io, 13, 16, 19, etc. 

In the 3d row (following Working Model, Fig. 2, 
and Block Pattern, Fig. 3) there is, i open, i solid, 
2 open, 2 solid, 2 open, i solid, i open. 

4th row — One open, i solid, i open, i solid, 
2 open, I solid, i open, I solid, i open. 

5th row — One open, 2 solid, 4 open, 2 solid, i 
open. 

6th row — Like 5th. 7th row — Like 4th. 8th 
row — Like 3d. 9th row — Like 2d. loth row — 
Like 1st. 

Always remembering to make 5 chain for the 
turn in the square work. This makes an open mesh, 
and it is always much better to have any design 
with at least one row of open meshes on all 
four sides. 

It is really quite worth while to make a block 
like this Fig. 2 and find out if it is square. 

When doing a long strip or band, it may not be 
so essential, although the work is prettier; but 
when making a square block, it should be square. 

Working Model, Fig. 4, is a triangular block, 
made after the pattern. Fig. 5. 

After making nine open meshes, use the t c 
(with two loops), and join to make the last mesh 
a triangle. To turn for the 2d row, make 3 rather 
loose or 4 quite tight chain-stitches and join with 
d c to make another triangular mesh. This is the 
first of 4 d c that form a solid mesh. Following 
the pattern — i open, i solid, i open, i solid, i open, 
I solid, I open. (Turn with 5 chain at this end.) 

3d row — Seven open meshes, I triangular mesh. 





Fig. 3 

Patternof Fig. 2 



Fig 4 

Working Model of Pattern Fig. 5 



4th row — Turn with triangle, x 
open, 2 solid, i open, i solid, i open. 
Turn with $ chain. 

5th row — Three open, i solid, i 
open, I triangle. 

6th row — Turn with triangle, 2 
open, I solid, I open. 

7th row — Turn with 5, 3 open, i 
triangle, etc. 

In Filet, it is a rare e.xception that has not one 
row, or more, of open meshes outside the design, and 
we should follow the same rule in Filet Crochet. 
The edge of a medallion or insert is usually 
covered with single crochet, three stitches over 
each chain of two and four stitches over each 
triangular mesh. This corresponds nicely with the 
buttonhole-stitch with which the netted medallion 
is invariably finished. 

Figure 6 is a model of the border of Doily, 
Fig. 22, showing how to mitre the corner in a way 
similar to Fig. 4. The two outer rows give the 
method used to finish the Centrepiece, No. 1452. 

Figure 7 is the model showing the heart of 
flower in the corner of Luncheon Cloth, No. 1454. 
A chain of five is made to cover the space of 
two open meshes. 

In estimating the size a pattern will fill, with 
the various threads, it may be helpful to know 
that No. TOO D. M. C. Crochet Cotton makes very 
good fabric, ten meshes to the inch; No. 50. eight 
meshes to the inch; No. 30, six meshes; and No. 10, 
between four and five meshes to the inch. 

Individual workers vary some, but this is a good 
average, and represents the work here illustrated. 
When crocheting for any length of time, and 
working as tightly as possible, the fingers may 
become chafed with the thread or needle. To avoid 
this, a good plan is to use chamois-skin glove 
fingers wherever they are needed. Bits of chamois 
skin may be sewed to fit whichever thumb or 
finger suffers most. The right-hand thumb, which 
holds the needle, and the first and second fingers 
of the left hand, which carry the thread and stop 
the point of the needle, were all so protected in 
doing much of the finished work in this book. 

■Mthough the crocheting, when in process, can 
be kept immaculate, by powdering the hands, and 
keeping the work in a tightly covered bo.x; when 
not in process, yet it is very much improved by 
laundering. 

This should be done by careful squeezing, rather 
than rubbing, in good soap-suds, and rinsing well 
without twisting the work. When it is soiled, 
dampen and lay it on a flat surface and rub soap 
well into it with a sinall bristle brush. 

Washing shrinks the thread until it is consid- 
erably smaller than the original measure, 
ing. face downward, between two 
pieces of cheese-cloth, on a thickly 
padded board (when not quite 
dry), will restore it to the exact 
size first measured. ^ Careful fin- 
ishing with the iron next the 
wrong side, flattens the work and — y 
brings out the design beautifully, pattern of Fig. 4 



Ir 







Filet Crochet 



The definition frequently given of Filet Crochet 
is, " crocheting in imitation of Filet." While that 
is true, yet it is, in a way, misleading. The word 
." imitation " may be objected to because it usu- 
ally carries with it a meaning of inferiority. Al- 
, wiiys, a substitute, a pretence, a sham comes to 
mind when an imitation of the " real " is mentioned. 

Rather let us define it as " Crocheting in the 
style of Filet," for if Filet Crochet is rightly done 
it is no less a " real " piece of work than the Filet 
which it is like. It requires no less skill, no less 
care, and perhaps no less time to crochet a good 
piece of Filet than it does to net the fabric and 
darn or weave or embroider through it the pattern. 
Those who have done both can testify to the truth 
of this. 

Our grandmothers did more or less crocheting, 
using this principle, so that it is nothing new; and 
yet, possibly, it has remained for this twentieth 
century to bring forward and perfect the work, 
adapting it to more uses and larger designs, and 
carrying out the designs in finer threads. 

It is, like Irish Crochet, at its very best when 
done with fine thread and the very finest needle. 
And yet it may be done with coarse thread and. a 
suitable needle and produce a very handsome piece 
of work, always providing that the crocheting is 
firm and evenly done. 

MATERIALS 

The materials used may be any spool thread 
that is at hand, or one may select any good crochet 
cotton. 

Of the pieces shown in this book, the most of 
the work was done with " D. M. C." Crochet Cotton 
(Cordonnet Special), Nos. lO, 30. 50, and 100. 

For No. 10 crochet cotton, the crochet hook 
should be about No. 10, not coarser. For No. 30, 
a No. 12 hook, and anything finer can best be 
done with No. 14. 

Patterns readily suggest themselves for simple 
bits of work, after one has started the crocheting, 
but for larger pieces and more elaborate designs, 
any block pattern is easily followed. 

The collection of patterns given in tliis book 
is culled from a variety of sources, and is equally 
adapted to Filet Crochet, Filet Erode, Cross-stitch, 
and various sorts of Canvas-work. 

Having procured the needle and thread and pat- 
tern fa simple equipment!), one is ready for the 
lesson. 

EXPLANATION OF TERMS 

D c — double crochet; having a stitch on the 
needle, one loop over the needle, one loop through 
the chain or top of stitch below, one loop through 
two on the needle, one loop through the remain- 
ing two. 

S c — single crochet, a stitch on the needle, a 
loop under the chain below, a loop through the two 
on the needle. This is used only in finishing 
edges, not in the designs. 

T c — treble crochet, a stitch on the needle, two 



loops over the needle, one loop through the work, 
then crochet off two and two. 

The first thing to do, is to find out whether one 
crochets " square." Many people do this natur- 
ally; more, we are inclined to~ believe, do not. 
Much time is saved if this is one's habit. 

Find out in this way; copy Working Model, 
Fig. I. Notice there are ten meshes, then the 
foundation chain will be ten times 3, plus I, plus 
5 to turn, altogether 36 chain. 

Turn, join with a d c in the 9th stitch from the 
needle, which completes the first open mesh. The 
following nine meshes are each made with 2 chain, 

1 d c in the 3d chain-stitch. 

Take up two threads of the chain when crochet- 
ing the first row. Crochet S chain-stitches to turn, 
join with a d c in the top of the next d c below, 
taking up two threads. 

Proceed in this way until ten rows are finished, 
and if the piece is square, one may be sure of 
crocheting easily. If the piece is longer from right 
to left, then either the chain-stitches and top of 
d c are too loose, or the d c is drawn up too short. 
In making the d c pull the top tightly, but do not 
pull the whole d c too short. 

It is easier to apply the remedy in a little piece 
than in a large one, where a very little difference 
in the tension makes a big difference in the out- 
come. If, however, the greater length is in the 
other direction, the probability is that the d c is 
drawn out too long. 

Then try Working Model, Fig. 2, with the same 
number of stitches. The first row is ten open 
meshes, like Fig. I. The second row is made with 
5 chain to turn, i d c in d c below, eight solid 
meshes and one open mesh. 

A solid mesh is formed by a d c over the d c, 

2 d c over the chain, I d c over the next d c, 
making 4 d c if it is a single solid mesh. If othei 
solid meshes follow then there is added 2 d c for 
each chain and i d c over d c. 

The number of d c in any number of solid meshes 
is equal to 3 times the number of meshes with 
I d c in addition. 



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Fig. I. 

Working Model of Filei Crochet, lo raeshes 
square. 



the edge around each square with s c, 3 stitches 
over each chain of 2. 

The cross-stitched blocks arc cut a big scam 
larger than the crocheted blocks, machine-stitclied 
just outside the turn, and are overcast in addition 
to keep them from fraying, as a seam in Hardanger 
cloth is always treacherous. Then the blocks are 



overcast together tightly, cross-stitched blocks and 
crocheted blocks alternating. The pillow-top is 
ready for the back, wliich must be overcast to the 
top. No other seam is possible along the edges of 
the crocheting. The color used for cross-stitch 
was old rose. The effect of this " patchwork " 
determined its selection as Frontispiece. 



Fig. 10. Conventional Flower Doily 



This doily presents a problem nut unlike tlie 
proverbial " titting of a round peg in a square hole," 
and there is added the puzzling task of crocheting 
to a foundation where there is no chain. 'Tis true 




Fig. 10. Flower Doily, see Fig. ^3 

one might break the thread and add a chain, but 
it can be accomplished with one thread, as was 
done in this case. Number 100 D. M. C. Crochet 
Cotton was used, and the doily measured 6% inches 
in diameter. The crochet needle required is No. 14. 



To make tlie doily, start with 12 meshes, that is, 

chain 36 plus i plus 5 stitches equals 42, d c in 

gth stitch and make 12 open meshes in the ist row. 

2d row — Chain 12, plus 5 to turn, d c in gth st 

and make 4 open meshes (it is easy 

to carry out chain at the last end of 

a row, to widen at the first of the 

succeeding row), 12 solid meshes. 

then make 4 open meshes a^ 

follows: 

Two chain, i double treble (d t) 
(3 loops) and join this d t at the top 
of the 1st row. Three times more, 
make this square mesh and join 
each time on a line with the top of 
the 1st row, forming 4 open meshes. 
At the end of each added mesh, the 
needle is left at the top of the mesh, 
ready to make another or to turn. 

This peculiar method is necessary 
in widening at the end of a row 
where there is nothing to crochet to, 
and three sides of a mesh must be 
made as one proceeds. To narrow, 
simply omit one or more meshes at 
the last end of the row. At the first 
end, draw the stitch on the needle 
the length of a mesh and slip in the 
top of d c. Repeat this for each 
mesh that is to be omitted, then 
make 5 chain for an open mesh and 
l)rocecd according to the design, 
l"ig. 43 on page 22. The loose 
threads left in this way are nicely 
covered when the edge is finished 
with s c. 

When the last row of twelve open meshes is 
finished, make one chain-stitch and cover the edge 
with 3 s c over each single side of a mesh, and 5 s c 
where two sides of a mesh form the edge. The 
final caution is to make the crocheting square. 



72 meshes 




Fig. II. See Fig. 36 



9 meshes 



Filet Crocliet is so simple, so easily understood, 
there is nothing intricate about it; but the fact can- 
not be overemphasized that great care must be 
taken to do the work evenly and rather tightly. 
When one can be sur^ of the right proportion 
between the chain-stitcH and the double crochet, 
that one is tight and the other just loose enough, 
then the worker who can crochet rapidly will make 
the best work. It becomes almost automatic, and 





Fig. 6 

Working Model, Border, Fig. 22 



Fig. 7 

Working Mode], Heart of Flower, Fig. 27 

the result is a beautiful uniformity throughout the 
whole piece, whereas if one must, in a labored 
way, pull each stitch with a distinct effort, the work 
is very likely to look pinched and drawn. 



No. 1450. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch 



This pillow, shown on page 2, is composed of 
twenty-five blocks, each four inches square. 
Twelve blocks are of Hardanger cloth, embroid- 
ered with cross-stitch, in D. M. C. Stranded Cotton. 
Two threads of the cotton are used. For the de- 
signs see Fig. 12 and Fig. 13 on page 7. 

Thirteen blocks are in Filet Crochet of D. M. C. 
Crochet Cotton No. 50. Three different designs 
are used, " The Swan," " The 
Dragon," and a conventional 
figure, see Fig. 15, Fig. 16, 
and Fig. 18, on page 7. These 
blocks are 33 meshes, requiring 
105 chain stitches for the foun- 
dation chain, this includes 5 
chain to turn. Join in the 9th 
stitch from the needle with a d c. 
Two chain-stitches separate the 
d c, making an open mesh. .(M- 
ways at the turn 5 chain are 
made for the first open mesh. 



Two rows of open meshes are made (in the 
" Swan " block 3 rows are made) before beginHing 
the design. In the 3d row of the " Dragon " make 
2 open, 2 solid, I open, i solid, 6 open, 3 solid, the 
remainder of the row open. Turn, make 18 open, 
I solid, I open, 2 solid, 6 open, 3 solid, 2 open, etc. 
The designs can be followed back and forth in 
this way until the squares are completed. Finish 




Fig. 8 



23 X 35 meshes 




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Figs. 16, 17, 18. Guest Towels 

These guest towels are of i6-inch huckaback, 
and 30 inches long. The thread used is No. 30 
D. M. C. Crochet Cotton. One ball is sufficient 
for each towel. 

Figure 19 — Insertion, at one end, 16 meshes 
wide, with letters 14 meshes high (see Figs. 114 
and 126), and a 5-mesh insertion (see Working 
Model, Fig. 6) at the other. 

Figure 20 — A band, 11 meshes wide, with letters 
7 meshes high (Fig. 128), finishes this guest towel 
at one end, and at the other a band 5 meshes wide. 
(See Insertion for Baby's Pillow, No. 145 1.) 

Figure 21 — This insertion is commenced with 



fee. 



Fig. 19. Guest Towel, see Figs. 114 and 126 




9 meshes (for pattern see border, Fig. 59), then 
widened to 18 meshes through the centre where 
the initials, 14 meshes wide (Fig. 114), are made. 
Then the band is continued 9 meshes wide to the 
end, reversing the pattern at the beginning. Tlie 
other end of the towel is finished with a band 
4 meshes wide and readily followed from the cut. 

Fig. 22. Doily 

Two medallions of 23 meshes (Fig. 98) and two 
of 25 meshes (Fig. 105) are inset in this 11 -inch 
doily. 

The edge is shown at Fig. 6, page 5. This re- 
quires one ball of No. 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, 
and one-third yard of fine huckaback, 24 inches 
wide, will make two doilies, useful and pretty. 




Fig. 20. Guest Tdwel. SteFig. r^s 



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Fig. 21. Guest Towel, seepig. ioi 



Fig. 22. Doily, see Figs. 6, 9s, 105 



No. 1451. Baby Pillow 



This daintily embroidered pillow of linen sup- 
ports a hollow square of Filet Crochet insertion 
to frame " the baby's face." The centre of the 
pillow is reserved for that decoration or use. 

Tlie insertion is made of No. lOO D. M. C. 
Crochet Cotton. For the design, see Fig. 32, 
page 17. It is 100 meshes square and 20 meshes 
wide, measuring 10 inches each way and 2 inches 
wide. A little more than one-quarter of the design 
is given, the rest being reversed. It is started at 
the lower left-hand corner with 306 stitches (includ- 
ing the turn). One row of open meshes, turn, i 
open, 98 solid, i open. Turn, i open, i solid, 96 
open, I solid, i open, etc. When 20 rows are fin- 
ished, turn, and follow the design up the right-hand 



side, 20 meshes wide, until 79 rows are done. 
Break the thread and begin at the inside of the 
frame, 20 meshes from the left edge and carry up 
the left side 80 rows. The 80th row will end at the 
inside corner of upper left-hand. Do not break 
the thread, but chain 179 and make i d c in the 
1st stitch of the right-hand side. Finish this 80th 
row across according to the pattern and make 20 
rows entirely across, reversing the first 20 rows. 
Four yards of insertion are required for the 
ruffle. This insertion is 5 meshes wide. In the 
1st and 2d rows the centre mesh is solid. The 
3d, 4th, and 5th rows are all open. Repeat these 
5 rows for the length required. The pillow ap- 
pears larger, but is only 16 inches square. 




No. 1451. Baby Pillow. Sce Fig. 32, page 17 
9 



No. 1452. Centrepiece in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch 



This novel centrepiece, of No. lo D. M. C. Cro- 
chet Cotton, is made somewhat after the fashion 
of the crocheted frame in the Baby Pillow, No. 
1451. The hollow square is partly filled with a 
figure in the form of a Greek cross, leaving four 
openings about 4 inches square. These are filled 
with cross stitched, hemstitched blocks of Har- 
danger cloth. The crocheting (see Fig. 23) is 
started at "A" with a chain of 276 stitches, making 
90 meshes. 

It may be difficult, in turning the work back and 
forth, to distinguish right and left, but if a short 
thread is left at the beginning of the foundation 
chain, that is to be considered the left side. 



When 16 rows of the pattern are completed, 
at " B," the work is carried on 16 meshes wide until 
21 rows of the right-hand side are finished. Leav- 
ing the ball of thread at that point, start another 
thread at " C," and carry this band up until 20 rows 
are finished. Cut and fasten the thread. 

Start at " D " and finish 20 rows of this band, 
cut and fasten the thread. Then take up the thread 
left at " E," chain 62 stitches, follow the pattern 
across the middle band, chain 62, follow the pattern 
across the left band. This completes the 2rst row 
of the central band and left side. 

Make 16 rows entirely across the work. 

Starting from " F," make 21 rows, 16 meshes 




No. 1452. Centrepiece in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery 

See Figs. 23 and 53 



10 



wide, leaving the thread at " H " as at " E." Start 
another thread at " X," make 20 rows of the upper 
central band, cut and fasten the thread. At " XX " 
start another thread, make 20 rows of right-hand 
side, cut and fasten the thread. 

Take up the thread left at " H," chain 62, make 
I row across centre band, chain 62, make i row 
across right-hand side. Sixteen rows of the pat- 
tern will complete the frame. Make the two outer 
rows of Fig. 6, page 5, for the edge. 

The cross stitch design is Fig. 52, page 23, and 
when the blocks are overcast in their places, the 
centrepiece is finished. The cross stitch is done 
with stranded cotton, and the undivided cotton is 
used because the crocheting is quite heavy. 

Upon comparing the centrepiece and the design, 
at first glance it may appear that the design ha? 



only one row of open meshes for outside margin, 
while the centrepiece has two rows. But the 
second of these is part of the border, ist row — 
Fasten the thread at the top of a d c, make an open 
mesh (5 chain, i d c), * 8 chain, i d c on last d c, 
I d c in next d c of centrepiece, 2 chain, i d c in 
next d c of centrepiece *. Repeat from * to *. 
2d row — Cover with s c, 7 or 8 over each scallop 
and 2 or 3 along the meshes. 

Different ways in which this handsome square 
may be used will suggest themselves, and one 
may also use the border and the cross independ- 
ently. Omitting the fancy purl edge shown in the 
illustration, a number of the squares might be 
joined together to form a counterpane, or the 
border alone could be set diamond fashion in the 
centre and enclose an initial or monogram. 



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• II 



90 meshes 



No. 1453. Peacock Pillow 



One large insert of Filet Crochet, ninety-eight 
meshes square, forms the centre of this very hand- 
some pillow. 

The material of the pillow is Hardanger cloth, 
■which lends itself so nicely to cross stitch. The 
border or frame surrounding the crochet being of 
that old, lately revived, much prized style of work. 
This is so fine and so well worked that it appears 
to be woven in the cloth. For the cross stitch 
design see Fig. 25 and Fig. 40. It is done with 
stranded cotton. The square of Filet Crochet, 
made of No. 100 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, re- 
quires a foundation chain of 300, that includes 5 to 



turn. Two rows of open meshes, then the design. 

3d row — Fifty-two open, i solid, 45 open. Turn. 

4th row — Forty open, i solid, 4 open, 2 solid, 4 
open, I solid, 46 open. Turn. 

5th row — Thirty-one open, i solid, 5 open, I 
solid, 8 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 
40 open, etc. 

Both feet being started, the design (Fig. 24) can 
be easily followed. When the square is finished 
cover the edge with s c, 3 over each chain. Over- 
cast it to the cloth, a generous seam of which is 
machine-stitched, overcast, and turned back. B, 
Fig. 25, is the centre of the cross stitch design. 




No. 1453. 



Pillow in Filet Crochet and Cross Stitch Embroidery 

See Figs, i-i, 25 and 40 




Fig. 24. Design of Filet Crochet for Pillow No. 1453. 



9S meshes 




Fig. 25. Border DESIG.N OF Pillow No. 1453. See corner, Fig. 40 17 meshes 



13 



No. 1454. Luncheon Cloth 



The combination of a corner of Filet Crochet 
with Venetian cut-work makes a very pretty result 
in this luncheon cloth. 

The corner is crocheted of No. loo D. M. C. 
Crochet Cotton; one ball will make a corner. The 
design is Fig., 27, page 15. In this triangle, the 
principle, seen at Fig. 4, Working Model, page 4, 
is used. 

One hundred and two meshes is the size, requir- 
ing a foundation chain of 312, including turn. Make 
loi open meshes, one triangular mesh with treble 
(two loops over the needle). In turning at the 
diagonal make 3 loose or 4 tight chain-stitches, and 
join with a d c — 17 open, I solid, 23 open, i solid. 



36 open, 6 solid, 7 open, 3 solid, 6 open. Turn with 
5 chain, etc., following the design. Where the long 
meshes are shown, in the heart of the flower, make 
5 chain (see Fig. 7, Working Model, page 5). 
Where so long a bias is to be cut in the linen, it 
is best to mark outside the insert and machine- 
stitch 1-32 of an inch outside that line. A running 
line, the same distance outside the stitching, will 
give a good body for the buttonhole, to which the 
insert is to be overcast. The cloth is 48 inches 
square, the hemstitched hem 1% inches wide, and 
it requires one-half dozen D. M. C. Coton Floche 
No. 8 to do the embroidery. The Venetian cut- 
work scrolls are very easily and quickly made. 




No. 1454. Luncheon Cloth in Filet Crochet and Venetian Cut Work 

See page r5, Fig. 27 
14 



i'H""K :B« B-i:""naiiirH""n nni »-:i""aaHHrB"" 



iitirri II I 11 [TriTl II IT M II I I IITTTTTI TTTTfl I M il I llf I M I TITIT'TTTIITTTITTI flTI'ITTTITTfl fliril' 



f-SHI": 




Fig. 27. Design FOR Luncheon Cloth, No. 1454, page 14. see Fig. 7, page; 



15 



No. 1455. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Eyelet Work 



This pillow of linen is beautifully embroidered, 
and inset with one large and eight small medallions 
of Filet Crochet. 

The larger medallion is SJj inches square, 54 
meshes. For design, see Fig. 28, page 17. 

The smaller medallions are 3 inches square, 31 
meshes. For designs, see Fig. 29 and Fig. 30, 
page i;. 

One ball of D. M. C. Crochet Cotton, Xo. 100, 
will make the nine medallions. 

The embroidery should be finished tirst and the 
linen laundered, after which the medallions (laun- 



dered) are to be overcast to the buttonholed edge. 
Lay the medallions in place, mark lightly (with 
a hard pencil) outside each one. Make one line of 
closely run stitches about 1-32 of an inch outside 
the pencil mark, a second line the same distance 
outside the first. Buttonhole over these two lines 
with the edge of the buttonhole on the inner side. 
Cut close to the work and overcast the medallion 
in this little frame. The buttonhole should be 
done with the thread used in the embroidery. 
D. M. C. Coton Floche, No. 12, is good for that, 
or any other embroidery cotton that one prefers. 




No. 1455. Pillow in Filet Crochet and Eyelet Work.. 

16 



See page 17, Figs. zS, 29 and 30 




Fig. 33. See top of Bag, page T9 



10 meshes 






Fig. 30. See page 16 



31 meshes FiG. 34 



25 X 64 meshes 



17 



Figs. 35, 36. Towel with Filet Crochet 



This towel, or scarf, of 24-inch huckaback is 
trimmed at one end with three initialed medallions, 
31 meshes square, connected by a band of 3 open 
meshes, the width of the towel. 

The initials are 25 meshes high, from alphabet, 
Fig. Ill, page 42. 



An insertion, 13 meshes wide, with name (9 
meshes high), repeated, forms the trimming of the 
other end; see page 6, Fig. 11. 

One ball of No. 50 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton and 
iJ4 yards 24-inch huckaback are the materials. 



Fig. 41. Baby's Bonnet 



This charming bonnet was made of No. 100 D. 
M. C. Crochet Cotton, with a No. 14 crochet needle. 
The directions are as follows: 

Chain 6, join in a ring. 

1st round — Twelve s c in the ring. 

2d round — Two s c in each stitch (making 24). 

3d round — * Two s c in ist, i s c in each of 
next 2 *. Repeat from * to * (making 32). 

4th round — * Two s c in 1st, I s c in 2d *. Re- 
peat from * to * (making 48). 

5th round — * Two s c in 1st, I s c in 2d *. 
Repeat from * to * (making 72). 

6th round — Five chain, i d c in 2d stitch below, 

* 2 chain, i d c in 2d stitch below *. Repeat from 

* to * (making 36 open meshes). 

"th round — One solid mesh (made by 3 chain, 
3 d c), 2 open meshes. Repeat all around. 



8th round — One open, I solid, * 2 open, I solid, 
*. Repeat from * to *. 

Qth round — One d c over each d c, 3 d c over 
each chain. 

loth, nth, I2th, 13th, 14th, 15th. i6th, 17th. i8th, 
rounds — Like 7th, 8th, and 9th. 

19th, 20th, 2ist rounds — Open meshes all around. 

This completes the crown. 

22d row — Turn, with 5 chain, make 19 open, i 
solid, 5 open, I solid, 15 open, i solid, 5 open, i 
solid, 15 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 15 open, i 
solid, 5 open, i solid, 7 open (making 99 meshes). 

23d row — Turn, make 7 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 
2 solid, IS open, 2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid. 15 open, 
2 solid, 3 open, 2 solid, 15 open, 2 solid, 3 open, 
2 solid, ig open. 

24th row — Turn, and since two points of each 



iJJ«y««tireMJJ- 



Fig. 35. Towel. See Alphabet, page 42, Fig. Ill 



Fig. 36. Towel. See Alphabet, page 6, Fig. h 
18 



of four stars are started, they may easily be finished 
from the illustration, being sure to start the front 
row of alternating stars in the 36th row, the same 
row that finishes the first four stars. The 36th row 
follows — Turn, make 8 open meshes, i solid, 5 
open, I solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, 
I solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, i solid. 5 open, 
I solid, 4 open, i solid. 5 open, i solid, 4 open, 
I solid, 5 open, i solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, 
I solid, 4 open, i solid, 5 open, i solid, 7 open. 
Finish around the edge with 3 s c over each chain, 
making a picot of 4 chain after every 6th stitch. 

Fig. 42. Hand Bag 

This little bag measures 5 inches by 6]-^ inches, 
and is made of No. 50 D. M. C. Crochet Cotton. 
The design used was Fig. 73 for the body and 
Fig- 33 for the top of 8 rows above the beading. 

Each side was crocheted separately, and the 
edges were held together and covered with s c. 
Figure 73 is 43 meshes, one more was added to 
each side, and the size could be varied at one's 
pleasure. Make 45 meshes, 141 chain, d c in 9th 
stitch from needle, etc. 

The beading is made of double trebles (3 
loops) separated by 2 chain. Around the top 
it is finished with 6 s c, picot of 5. repeated. 
The cords arc chains of No. 2 D. M. C. Crochet 
Cotton, 30 inches long, about 300 stitches. And 
balls of No. 2 are crocheted on the ends. 



Fig. 37 

15 X 17 meshes 




Fig. 37}4- 7 meshes 





Fig. 38. 18x30 meshes 



A 



li!;;-;:!::!;;-;! 

dl||!i'!:i!|]H: 



Fig. 39 



Fig. 40 



27 meshes 




Fig. 41. Baby's Bonnet 

See page iS 




Corner of Fig. 25 



19 



Fig. 42. Sm.all Hand Bag 

See Fig."!. 33 and 75 



No. 1456. Bedspread in Filet Crochet 



Use Syi lbs. of carpet chain and a steel hook 
to suit the thread. One-quarter of the spread 
is given, half the width and half the length, in the 
pattern, No. 1456, offered at 10 cents. Begin the 
work in the lower right-hand corner with a chain 
of 784, and 5 to turn, to make 261 meshes. The 
pattern has 259 meshes, but one more on each 
side must be allowed to make a perfect copy of the 



spread. Two rows of open meshes are made 
before the design is started. Follow the first row 
of the design to the centre mesh, which is the last 
in the pattern. Reverse this half row, but do not 
double the centre mesh, and this will complete 
the 3d row of work. Begin the 4th row at the 
right and work to the centre, then reverse for the 
last half of the row. IMake each row in this way. 




No. 1456. Bedspread in Filet Crochet 



No. 1457. Bedspread in Filet Crochet and Relief Crochet 



Fourteen pounds of white carpet chain and a 
steel crochet needle are required to make this very 
handsome bedspread. 

The width is 243 meshes, which takes 729 chain 
and 5 to turn. Part of the design is in Relief 
Crochet. 

The Relief block is represented by a dot in the 
pattern. No. 1457, which is offered by the Priscilla 



Publishing Co., for 10 cents. This block or knob 
is made of 5 d c worked in the space of one 
mesh, the needle is taken out and put in the 
first of the five, and the last loop taken through, 
make I chain and i d c over d c. 

Bend the S d c either toward or away from you, 
according to which side, the right or wrong side, 
is uppermost. The raised work is very effective. 




No. 1457. Bedspread in Filet Crochet and Relief Crochet 



21 




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31 meshes 




Fig. 50 



61 meshes FiG 54 

J5 X 18 meshes 



Fig. 55 

17 meshes 



23 




Fig. s 
[i6x 198 meshes. See page 29 for pat' 

is one-half of Top Border. 
.^ Border. Fig. 



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Hunt 

order for this design. Fig. 6d, A, B, E, 

, D, F, is one-half of Lower 

s Side Border. 



25 



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XX 

104 X 1S6 meshes; 



26 



Fig. 58. Deer Hunt 



The " Deer Hunt," Fig. 58, is completed by join- 
ing pages 26 and 27 at X and XX. 

The border of the " Boar Hunt," on pages 24 
and 25, may be applied to this, using only the 
narrow design, which is 4 meshes wide, and 2 
meshes margin outside. 

And there may be added to this the whole 
border on page 29, which is the right size for 
either design. 

This border is given in three parts, the half of 

X 



upper border, the half of lower border, and side 
border which tits exactly between the two. 

They are lettered to join together. 

The 6-mesh border should be placed directly 
outside the 104 by 186 meshes on this and the 
previous page, then the broader border just outside 
that, which is 116 by 198 meshes. 

The measure outside the whole is 176 by 258 
meshes. There should be no difficulty in adding 
cither border to either design. 




XX 



Fig. 58. — Continued. For Border see page 24 and page 29. 
27 



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Side Border, Fig. 56 



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43 



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Fig- 112 



l8 meshes high 



42 



4> 




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