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PBOCEEDINGS 


OF    THE 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY 


ASD 


Monthly  Record  of  Geography. 


rUBLISHKD   UNDEB'THE  AUTHORITY  OF  THE  OOUNOIL,   AND  BDUBO   BY 
THE  ASSISTANT  SEOBETABY,    1,   SAYILE  BOW. 

NEW   MONTHLY   SERIES 

VOL.  v.,  1883. 


LONDON: 
EDWARD  STANFORD,  55,  CHARING  CROSS. 

1883. 


213804 


losdom: 

PBHrCED  BT  'WILUAX  COiOWBS  AKD  SONS,  LISUTED, 
^TAUrOBD  STBEET  ASD  CEABIKO  CBOSS. 


ROYAL   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY. 


PATRON. 

HEB    MAJESTY    THE    QUEEN. 

VICE-PATRON. 

HIS  BOYAL  HIGHNESS  THE  PEINCE  OF  WALES,  K.Q.,  K,T.,  K.P., 

G.C.B.,  «fec.,  &c. 

Honorary-President. 
HIS  BOYAL  HIGHNESS  THE  DUKE  OF  EDINBUBGH,  K.G.,  K.T., 

G.C.S.L,  &o.,  &c. 

COUNCIL 

(ELECTED  2»rH  MAY,  1883). 

President^Bight  Hon.  Lobd  Aberdare,  F.B.S. 

Vice-Presidents. 
Sir  BuTHiBFORD  AioocK,  E.G.B.   \. 
Sir  Babbow  H.  Elus,  K.C.SX 
Bt  Hon.  Sir  H.  Bastle  E.  F&ebe, 
Bart.,  G.O.B. 


Frahcis  Galton,  Esq.,  F.B.S. 
General    Sir   J.    H.    Lefbot,    B.A., 

K.C.M.G. 
B.  H.  Major,  Esq.,  F.SA. 


Treasurer— Bbqinald  T.  Cocks,  Esq. 

Trustees— Lord  Houghton,  D.C.L.;  Sir  Johh  Lxjbbock,  Bart,  F.B.S. 

Seeretaiies — Clemeiits  B.  Markham,  Esq.,  C.B.,  FJI.S.;  Douglas  W. 

Freshfield,  Esq. 

Foreign  Secretary — ^Lord  Arthur  Bussell,  M.P. 

Members  of  ConnciL 
JoHir  Ball,  Esq.,  F.B.S.  i  Bear-Admiral  B.  C.  May>e,  C.B. 


E.  H.  Bunburt,  Esq. 

Sir  T.  FowELL  Buxton,  Bart. 

Colonel  J.  U.  Batehan  Champain,  B.E. 

Major-General  A  C.  Cooke,  B.E. 

Bt.  Hon.  Lord  Cotteslob. 

B-  N.  Cusr,  Esq. 

James  Fergusson,  Esq.,  F.B.S.,  CJ.E. 

Colonel  J.   A.   Grant,  C.B.,  C.S.I., 

F.B.S. 
J.  K.  Laughton,  Esq. 
S.  P.  Low,  Esq. 
W.  MACKINNON,  Esq.,  CLE. 


Major-General  Sir  H.  C.  Bawlinson, 

K.C.B. 
Sir  Bawson  Bawson,  K.C.MG. 
General  C.  P.  Bigby. 
General  B.   Stracbky,    B.E.,   C.S.I., 

F.B.S. 
General  Sir  H.  L.  Thuiluer,  C.S.I., 

F.B.S. 
General  Sir  C.  P.  Beauchamp  Walker, 

K.C.B. 
Sir  Allen  Young,  C.B. 
Colonel  Henry  Yule,  C.B. 


Aaristant  SeozeUur  and  Sditor  of  Traasaotiona— H.  W.  Bates,  Eaq.,  F.R.S, 

Librarian— E.  0.  Bn,  Esq.,  F.Z.S. 

Map  Curator— John  Coles,  Esq.,  F.BA.B. 


CONDITIONS  OF  FELLOWSHIP,  &c. 

Candidates  for  admission  into  the  Society  must  be  proposed  and 
seconded  by  Fellows,  and  it  is  necessary  that  the  description  and  resi- 
dence of  such  Candidates  should  be  clearly  stated  on  their  Certificates. 

It  is  provided  by  Chapter  IV.,  §  1,  of  the  Regulations,  that, 

**  Every  Ordinary  Fellow  shall,  on  his  election,  be  required  to  pay  £3  as  his 
**  admission  fee,  and  £2  as  his  annnal  contribution  for  the  year  ending  on  the  31  st 
**  Deoember  then  next  ensuing,  or  he  may  compound  either  at  his  entrance  by  one 
"  payment  of  £28,  or  at  any  subsequent  period  by  the  payment  of  £25,  if  his  entrance 
*'feebe  already  paid." 

All  Subscriptions  are  payable  in  advance,  on  the  1st  of  January  in 
each  year. 

The  privileges  of  a  Fellow  include  admission  (with  one  friend)  to  all 
Meetings  of  the  Society,  and  the  use  of  the  Library  and  Map-room. 
Each  Fellow  is  also  entitled  to  receive  a  copy  of  the  New  Monthly 
Series  of  the  Proceedings  and  the  Supplementary  Papers,  the  former 
of  which  is  forwarded,  free  of  expense,  to  addresses  in  the  United 
Kingdom,  and  the  latter  obtained  on  application  at  the  Society's  office. 


CopieB  of  the  Begulations  and  Candidates'  Gertifioates  may  be  bad  on  applica- 
tion at  the  Society's  Office,  1,  Savile  Row,  London,  W. 


vi  COKTENTS. 

No.  4.     April 

PACB 

Ezpl(»ations  ia  Guatemala,  and  Examinatioa  of  the  newly-dlsoovered  Indian 

Ruins  of  Quirigui,  Tikal,  and  the  Usumacinta.    By  A.  P.  Maudslay     ..  18& 

Second  Voyage  of  the  £'tra  to  Franz-Josef  Land       20^ 

Geographical  Notes        228 

Obituary 232 

Beport  of  the  Evening  Meetings 234' 

/Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 235 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 240 

Maps. — Guatemala;  Barents  Sea:  Track  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  Expedition  of 

1881-2 248. 


No.  6.    May, 

Notes  on  the  Central  Provinces  of  Colombia.    By  Bobert  Blake  White ..     ..  24& 

Further  Explorations  in  the  Mashnna  Country.    By  F.  C.  Selous 268 

The  Delta  and  Lower  Course  of  the  Sahi  Biver,  according  to  the  Survey  of  the 

late  Captain  T.  L.  Phipson-Wybrants 271 

A  Visit  to  Corea,  in  October  1882.    By  J.  C.  Hall,  Acting-Consul,  Nagasaki  274 

Geographical  Notes        284 

Obituary ; 291 

Conespondoice       294 

Report  of  the  Evening  Meetings 29ft 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 297 

Now  Books  and  New  Maps 30O 

ICaps. — Routes  between  the  Umfiile  and  the  Zambesi      269 

Delta  and  Lower  Course  of  the  Sabi  River ..  272 

Central  and  Western  Colombia      312: 


No.  6.    June, 

The  Basins  of  the  Amaru-mayu  and  the  Bern.  By  Clements  R.  Markham,  c.b., 

Secretary  R.G.S 313 

Exploration  of  the  River  Beni  in  1880-1.    By  Edwin  R.  Heath,  m.d 327 

Departure  of  the  Dutch  Arctic  Expedition,  1883       343 

Geographical  Notes        350 

Obituary 354 

Correspondence       355 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 368 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 36G 

MAPS.-rBiver  Beni  (with  Inset  Map,  part  of  Peru  acd  Bolivia)     37^ 


CXMffKMVB.  v5i 
No.  7.    July, 

PAGS 

The  Aimnal  Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geography  for  1882-3.    By  the  Bight 

Hon.  Lwd  Aberdare,  r.B.8.,  President 377 

Obituaiy  for  the  Year  1882-3       388 

Beport  on  Bnssian  Qeography  fw  the  Year        389 

Buasian  Surveys  in  the  Trans-Caspian  Begion  and  Trans-Caucasia         ..      ..  392 
Journey  in  the  District  West  of  Cape  Delgado  Bay,  Sept.-Oct.  1882.    By  H. 

E.  (yNeill,  H.M.  Consul,  Mozambique       893 

Geographical  Notes        405 

Correspondence       408 

Beport  of  the  Evening  Meetings 410> 

The  Anniversary  Meeting      411 

lYoceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 426 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 480 

Map.— Country  West  of  Cape  Delgado  Bay,  E.  Africa     ..     ..     440 


No.  8.     August, 

China,  in  some  of  its  Physical  and  Social  Aspects.    By  E.  Colbome  Baber    ..  441 
A  Journey  from  Mossamedes  to  the  Biver  Cunte^  S.W.  Africa.    By  the  Earl 

ofMayo 468 

IMsoovery  of  an  Ancient  Map  in  Iceland  by  Baron  Nordenskiold 473 

Geographical  Notes 475 

Obituary 489 

Beport  of  the  Evening  Meetings 494 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 494 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 497 

MAP.--Southem  Part  of  the  Portuguese  West  African  Possessions 501 


No.  9.    September. 

Vifflts  to  the.Eastem  and  North-eastern  Coasts  of  New  Guinea.    By  Wilfred 

Powell  * 505 

A  Visit  to  the  Masai  People  liying  beyond  the  Borders  of  the  Nguru  Country. 

By  J.  T.  Last 517 

Mr.  Thomson's  Beport  on  the  Progress  of  the  Society's  Expedition  to  Victoria 

Nyanza    ..      ••      ..     ..      ..      ••      • 644 

Geographical  Notes        550* 

Obituary 566^ 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies 55T 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 664 

Map.— Last  and  Baxter's  Boutes  in  the  MasM  Country 568 


viii  CONTENTS. 

No.  10.     Oddber. 

TXOK 

A  Vifit  to  Mr.  Stanley's  Stations  on  the  Biver  Ck)ngo.  By  U.  H.  Johnston ..  569 
A  Visit  to  the  Wa-itumba  Iron-workers  and  the  Manga^eri,  near  Ifamboia, 

in  Bast  Central  Africa.    By  J.  T.  Last       581 

Report  on  Admiralty  Surreys  for  the  Year  1882.     By  the  Hydrographer, 

Captain  Sir  Frederick  J.  O.  Evans,  uja 593 

Oeographical  Notes        602 

Obltnary         606 

Fh)oeedingsoftheGeographicalSectionof  the  British  Association 610 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 625 

Map.— The  Congo  Biver  from  its  Mouth  to  Bdlobo 632 

No.  11.     November. 

On  the  Athabasca  District  of  the  Canadian  North^West  Territory.    By  the 

Bev.  fimile  Petitot 633 

Geographical  Notes 656 

OWtuary 663 

Correspondence       664 

Proceedings  of  the  Geographical  Section  of  the  British  Association 667 

New  Books  and  New  Maps , 676 

MAP.—Districtof  Athabasca  (British  North  America)      ..      ..  688 

No.  12.    December, 

Survey  of  tiie  Eastern  Coast  of  Lake  Nyassa,  and  Latest  News  of  the  "  Lake- 

Jonction  Bead."    By  James  Stewart,  o.e 689 

The  Biver  Congo,  from  its  Mouth  to  B6\6h6 ;  with  Notes  on  the  Physical 
Geography,  Natural  History,  Besources,  and  Political  Aspect  of  the  Congo 

Basin.    By  H.  H.  Johnston        692 

Notes  on  the  Biver  Mand,  or  Kara-Aghatch  (the  Sitakos  of  the  Ancients)  in 

Southern  Persia.    By  Lieut.-Col.  E.  C.  Rosa 712 

M.  B6voil*s  Journey  into  the  South  Somali  Country        717 

Geographical  Notes        719 

Obituary '  ..      724 

Coirespondence 725 

Beport  of  the  Evening  Meetings,  Session  1883-84 ..  729 

Proceedings  of  Foreign  Societies ..      .."    ..  ' 736 

New  Books  and  New  Maps 742 

Maps.— The  River  Mand  or  Kara-Aghatch       713 

Lake  Nyassa ;  South-Western  Africa  ^Physical  Map)      ' ..      ..      ..  752 

Ikdex      •.     '  ..     ..-^  ..  753 


PBOCEEDINGS 

or  THB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIET^ 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


M.  P.  M.  Lessars  Second  Journey  in  the  Turkoman  Country — 
Askabad  to  Ohurian  near  Herat. 

(Read  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  November  27th,  1882.) 
Maps,  p.  56. 

Is  continuation  of  the  account  of  M.  Lessar's  first  journey  given  in  the 
last  volume  of  the  *  Proceedings '  (p.  486),  wo  now  give  an  abridgment 
of  the  narrative  of  his  further  operations,  which  the  enterprising  Russian 
surveyor  has  communicated  to  the  Ooloa  newspaper  of  St.  Petersburg. 

His  first  journey  was  performed  in  November  and  December  1881 ; 
he  commenced  his  second,  at  Askabad,  towards  the  end  of  April  of 
1882.  During  this  short  interval,  he  premises,  a  great  change 
had  taken  place  in  the  country.  After  the  f^ll  of  Geok-tepeh,  on 
January  24th,  1881,  no  further  resistance  of  the  Akhals  could  be 
expected.  Those  of  them  who  had  fled  to  Merv  and  the  Tejend  after 
the  capture  of  their  stronghold,  and  were  slow  to  believe  in  the  amnesty 
proclaimed  by  the  Russians,  returned  to  their  homes  in  September,  and 
this  completed  the  pacification  of  the  country.  The  robberies  which 
occasionally  occurred  on  the  Persian  frontier  and  in  the  Steppe,  on  the 
routes  to  Khiva  and  Bokhara,  ceased  completely.  It  became  possible  to 
travel  between  Askabad  and  Sarakhs  without  escort,  accompanied  by 
only  a  few  labourers  armed  with  guns  against  chance  robbers.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  Atak  made  closer  acquaintance  with  the  Russians  as 
they  went  to  Askabad,  on  business  or  out  of  curiosity,  and  sometimes 
in  search  of  employment.  M.  Lessar  took  advantage  of  this  last  circum- 
stance, and  accepted  the  ofier  of  the  elders  of  the  Kahka  village  to 
provide  him  with  an  escort  of  twenty  Alieli  Turkomans,  on  good 
horses,  for  his  second  journey. 

He  left  Askiabad  on  April  28th,  and,  following  the  same  route  through 
the  Atak  as  on  his  first  journey,  he  reached  Sarakhs,  187  miles  distant, 
on  May  3rd.  The  word  Atak  (signifying  "  foot  of  the  mountains  "),*  he 
says,  is  unknown  either  in  Afghanistan  or  in  Persia.     The  western  part 

•  Properly  ''akirt  of  the  mountaia  " ;  the  some  word  as  Attock  on  the  Indus.— [Ed.] 
No.  I.— Jan.  1883.]  b 


2       M.  P.  iC'JiSSSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

of  the  oafiis  (as  far  as  Gawars)  which  is  inhabited  by  Tekkes,  is  usually 
called*  Akkdl,  and  the  narrow  strip  of  inhabited  land  towards  the  south- 
east pr{t  is  known  in  the  adjacent  countries  under  the  name  of  Arakaj. 
Butl^b  Bussians  have  introduced  the  use  of  the  term  Atak,  to  designate 
'all  the  country  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  between  the  Bussian 
•.  boundary  and  Sarakhs.  Gawars  is  the  last  inhabited  point  of  the  Akhdl- 
y^ekke  oasis.  Baba-durmaz,  50  miles  distant  from  Askabad  and  situated 
< '  on  the^bouudary  of  the  Bussian  dominions,  has  no  inhabitants.  Only  two 
settlements  in  the  Atak  are  occupied  by  Persian  Shiites  who  are  subjects 
of  Nasr-eddin-shah.  All  others  are  inhabited,  either  by  Turkomans  of 
the  Alieli  tribe  (as  at  Eahka  And  partly  at  Euran),  or  by  Tekkes  from 
Merv  and  elsewhere.  All  this  population  has  migrated  into  the  country 
quite  recently,  after  a  fifty  years'  struggle  against  the  former  inhabi- 
tants,— the  Emrali,  Earadashli,  and  Alieli.  They  live  in  clay  home- 
steads, or  k^itkas  (felt  tents),  but  the  number  of  the  latter  is  rapidly 
diminishing,  as  the  population  becomes  settled.  Water  is  scarce  through- 
out the  country,  the  streamlets  being  small  and  distant  from  one  another ; 
besides,  the  upper  parts  of  the  streams  are  in  the  hands  of  the  Persians, 
who  are  only  too  happy  when  they  have  an  opportunity  of  molesting 
those  who  were  formerly  their  oppressors.*  Thus  the  Turkoman  popu- 
lation are  often  deprived  of  their  harvests  by  water  being  intercepted  by 
Persians,  and  this  water-question  is  becoming  most  important  as  the 
Turkomans  say  they  will  be  compelled  to  abandon  their  settlements,  a 
course  which  would  again  convert  the  Atak  into  a  desert.  The  complete 
list  of  settlements  in  the  Atak,  as  given  by  M.  Lessar,  is  as  follows  : — 
Annau,  13  versts  (8f  miles)  from  Askabad,  200  kebitkas;  Gawars, 
20  versta  (13^  miles)  from  the  above,  40  kebitkas;  and  Baba-durmaz, 
38  versts  further  (25^  miles),  now  uninhabited,  on  the  Bussian  frontier. 
Artik,  16  versts  (lOJ  miles)  from  Baba-durmaz,  20  kebitkas;  Lutfabad 
and  Euran  (five  versts — S^  miles — from  above),  and  many  small  villages 
scattered  over  the  space  of  28  versts  (15^  miles)  from  Lutfabad  to  Kahka. 
This  group  of  settlements,  which  represents  an  aggregate  of  500  kebitkas 
and  houses,  is  the  richest  part  ,of  the  Atak ;  the  fields  are  larger  than 
elsewhere,  and  there  are  excellent  gardens ;  they  receive  water  from  the 
Budkhana,  or  Budbar,  the  largest  river  of  the  Atak.  Eahka,  500  kebitkas, 
is  situated  on  a  river  formed  by  the  junction,  of  the  Lain  and  Archin 
streams.  A  small  settlement  of  20  kebitkas,  Naurek,  is  situated  above 
the  ruins  of  Ehajamed,  17  versts  (11^  miles)  from  Eahka.  Dushak, 
or  Chardeh,  21  versts  (14  miles)  from  the  above,  160  kebitkas,  on  the 

*  Colonel  Stewart  informs  us  that  the  population  of  the  two  Ataks  is  very  mixed, 
being  comp<»ed  of  Kurds,  Persians,  and  Turkomans,  but  all  are  subjects  of  Nasr-eddin- 
shah,  and  have  paid  revenue  regularly  for  at  least  fifty  years  in  the  northern  Atak. 
The  Turkomans  are  interlopers,  and  have  been  allowed  to  settle  on  paying  revenue. 
The  Alieli  Turkomans  camo  Arom  near  Andkui  in  Afghanistan.  M.  Lessar  has  under- 
estimated the  number  of  Shiah  villages  in  the  Ataks,  there  being  many  more  than  two 
villages  in  which  the  chief  portion  of  the  population  are  Shiahs.— [Ed.]- 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURUN  NEAR  HERAT.  8 

Chardeh  river;  Mehna,  44  versts  (29^  miles)  from  Dusbak,  with  130 
houaee ;  and  Chacha,  16  versts  (10^  miles)  further,  with  70  houses,  are 
all  dependent  for  water  upon  the  Persians.  On  the  remaining  65  verstg 
(37  miles)  to  Sarakhs  there  is  no  water,  and  the  Robat  cistern  is  filled 
with  earth.  Thus,  the  population  settled  between  Baba-durmaz  and 
Sarakhs  may  be  estimated  at  about  7000  Alieli  and  Tekke  Turkomans, 
to  whom  must  be  added  the  Persians  at  Lutfabad  and  Shilghan  (OhiUan). 
In  fiftct,  the  population  varies  every  day,  and  at  present  is  increasing ;  but 
it  cannot  increase  much,  on  account  of  the  want  of  water.  This  popular 
tion  lives  on  agriculture  and  gardening ;  only  at  Chacha  are  there  a  few 
plantations  of  cotton  trees.  Altogether,  these  people  are  very  poor  and 
had  to  endure  great  sufferings  during  the  first  year  of  their  settlement 
in  the  Atak.  Of  course,  there  is  no  trade  worth  speaking  of,  and  the 
bazaars  at  Lutfeibad  and  Kahka  fully  satisfy  the  very  limited  wants  of 
the  Turkomans. 

At  8arakhs„M.  Lessar  was  told  by  his  escort  that  there  was  no  road 
to  Eus&n  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Hari-rfid,  and  no  fords  across  the 
river  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  fort.  But  it  soon  appeared  that  his 
Alielis,  one  of  whom  was  a  robber  of  renown  who  perfectly  knew  all  the 
loads  in  the  country,  were  simply  afraid  of  possible  enoounters  on  the 
right  bank  with  such  Mervis  and  Saiyks  as  might  have  some  former 
accounts  to  settle  with  them  for  robberies,  and  that  the  information  they 
gave  was  false.  So,  on  May  5th,  the  Bussian  surveyor  ordered  his 
caravan  to  cross  the  Hari-r6d  close  by  Sarakhs.  The  environs  of  Sarakhs 
had  become  more  lively  since  his  first  journey.  New  settlements  of 
Mervis  had  grown  up  around  the  fort  on  both  banks  of  the  river,  with 
the  permission  of  the  Persian  Government,  to  whom  they  have  to  pay  a 
tax  equal  to  one-tenth  of  their  harvest. 

Already  at  Daulat-abad  the  Hari-r6d  divides  into  many  branches, 
spreading  far  and  wide  at  some  places,  so  that  at  low  water,  that  is, 
in  August  and  sometimes  as  early  as  July,  the  river  itself  no  longer 
reaches  Sarakhs.  Ten  miles  above  this  place  there  are  dams  erected  to 
direct  the  water  into  three  deep  canals  {atyha)  that  bring  it  to  Sarakhs, 
and  even  some  10  or  12  versts  (seven  or  eight  miles)  further  north ;  one 
of  these  aryks  is  dug  on  the  Persian  bank  of  the  Hari-rud  and  two  are 
on  the  eastern;  all  three  run  nearly  parallel  to  the  bed  of  the  river. 
This 'locality  about  Sarakhs  which  the  Persians  consider  at  present  as 
their  own,  is  one  of  the  best  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Hari-r6d 
firom  Kus4n  downwards,  the  river  flowing  between  flat  banks  suitable 
for  culture  only  as  far  as  Pesh-robdt.  Further  down  it  enters  a  gorge 
between  high  mountains;  valleys  where  canals  could  be  dug  are  few 
and  small,  and  a  second  widening  of  the  valley  of  the  Hari-r^d  begins 
only  at  Pul-i-khat^n  on  the  Persian  bank  and  at  Eassan-kala  on  the 
eastern  (16  versts — lOf  miles — south  of  Sarakhs).  Between  Eassan  and 
Pul-i-khat^n  the  Hari-rfid  flows  in  one  bed,  100  to  140  feet  wide.    Flood 

B  2 


4        M.  P.  M.  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

water  comes  about  the  beginning  of  February  and  the  river  remains 
at  a  high  level  until  the  middle  of  April ;  during  this  period  fording 
becomes  dangerous  on  account  of  the  rapidity  of  the  current.  But  in 
the  second  half  of  April  (new  style)  the  river  can  be  crossed  at  maby 
places,  in  a  depth  of  not  more  than  four  feet.  During  the  summer  the 
amount  of  water  diminishes  rapidly,  and  in  June  and  July  the  river  can 
be  crossed  wherever  the  banks  are  not  too  steep. 

All  along  the  Hari-riid  the  slopes  of  the  hills  are  covered  with 
piiBtachio-trees ;  here  and  there  are  mulberry  trees.  Close  by  the  river 
the  banks  are  covered  with  willows,  brushwood,  and  rushes,  so  thickly 
that  at  many  places  it  is  impossible  to  approach  it,  even  on  foot.  There 
is  everywhere  plenty  of  grass.  The  water  of  the  Hari-riid,  although 
muddy,  is  agreeable  and  wholesome. 

The  continuation  of  the  Hari-riid  north  and  north-west  of  Sarakhs  is 
known  under  the  name  of  the  Tejend.  There  is  a  current  in  this  river 
only  during  the  flood  season,  when  it  becomes  deep,  and  at  many  places 
quite  impossible  to  ford.  Mr.  O'Donovan,  when  crossing  it  a  little  to 
the  north  of  Eangaly-guzar,  in  February,  was  compelled  to  swim.  The 
officers  Alikhanoff  and  Sokoloff,  who  accompanied  the  caravan  of  M. 
Konshin  to  Merv,  crossed  the  Tejend  in  February  at  the  Karybend  dam ; 
it  was  then  72  feet  wide  and  6^  feet  deep.  But  its  depth  is  often  much 
greater  than  that,  and  for  four  or  six  weeks  each  year  the  caravans  can 
cross  it  only  at  Alam&n-jangal,  that  is,  at  a  place  which  usually  is  not 
reached  by  the  Tejend,  but  only  by  canals  drawn  from  it.  When,  how- 
ever, the  dam  at  Herat  is  broken,  then  the  river  inundates  the  country 
at  Alamin-jangal.  Still,  as  a  rule,  the  Tejend  is  quite  dry  during  the 
summer,  but  there  are  in  its  bed  series  of  lakes  that  are  supposed  to  be 
fed  either  by  springs  or  by  subterranean  continuatious  of  the  Chacha, 
Mehna,  and  Dushak,  streamlets  which  disappear  in  the  desert  15  to 
20  versts  (10  to  18J  miles)  before  reaching  the  dry  bed  of  the  Tejend. 
All  settlements  of  the  Tejend-Tekkes  are  concentrated  north  of  Kary- 
bend, towards  Alamdn-jangal,  the  other  names  which  we  see  on  our 
maps  being  only  names  of  fords. 

The  country  between  the  Murghab  and  the  Hari-r6d  was  very  little 
known  until  lately.  On  the  Murghab,  to  the  south  of  Merv,  there  are  a 
few  settlements  of  the  Saryks,  such  as  Yulut&n,  Panjdeh,  and  BaU- 
Murgh&b;  further  south,  on  the  slopes  of  the  Faropamisus,  are  the 
Jemshidfs  and  Teimiiris ;  but  to  the  west  of  the  Murgh&b,  as  far  as  the 
Hari-r^d,  there  is  not  a  single  settlement,  all  forts  on  the  Eushk  having 
been  abandoned  by  the  inhabitants,  and  in  ruins.  The  route  from  Merv 
to  Herat  along  this  river  has  been  described  by  Shakespeare  and  Abbot, 
but  the  country  between  the  Hari-riid  and  the  Eushk  remained  quite 
unknown ;  no  European  had  visited  it,  and  even  in  the  adjacent  coun- 
tries it  was  known  only  to  the  robber-chiefs.  Wherever  they  directed 
their  raids,  they  always  passed  through  this  country,  and  therefore 
nobody  dared  to  settle  between  the  Eushk  and  the  Hari-riid ;  the  few 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURIAN  NEAR  HERAT.  5 

forts  erected  fell  into  rain,  and  the  roads  became  impracticable.  Now 
this  country  has  become  safer.  Bobbery  is  no  more  the  general  occupa- 
tion of  the  Mervis,  but  only  of  isolated  bands ;  it  has  remained  a  regular 
source  of  income  only  with  the  Saryks,  and  it  is  difficult  to  say  what 
would  have  been  their  behaviour  towards  a  small  Bussian  caravan  had 
they  met  with  it;  but  M.  Lessar  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  only 
with  Mervis  and  Afghans,  with  whom  things  were  easily  arranged, 
though  not  without  some  risk  at  the  first  encounter. 

The  distance  of  145  miles  between  Sarakhs  and  Kus^  was  accom- 
plished in  five  marches.  The  Hari-riid,  which  can  always  be  forded 
dose  by  Sarakhs,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  days  in  the  year,  was 
crossed  within  half  a  verst  from  the  Persian  fort,  its  bed  being  divided 
there  into  four  branches,  which  flow  between  flat  banks  covered  with 
gravel.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  ford,  the  Tekkes  are  erecting  their 
own  fort,  with  the  permission  of  the  Persian  Government,  and  for  three 
verats  beyond  it  the  road  passes  among  the  fields  and  irrigation-canak  of 
the  new  Turkoman  settlers ;  then  it  follows  the  canals  mentioned  above. 

Dau-kala,  14  versts  (9^  miles)  from  Sarakhs,  is  a  small  fort,  now  in 
ruins.  Above  it  the  Hari-riid  flows  close  along  the  foot  of  high  crags, 
and  therefore  the  road  leaves  the  banks  of  the  river  and  crosses  a  low 
range  of  gently  sloping  hills ;  the  soil  is  clay,  and  the  road  continues 
quite  available  for  wheel  traffic.  It  descends  again  to  the  banks  of  the 
Hari-rud,  opposite  the  Persian  fort  Nauruz-abAd,  which  at  the  time  of 
M.  Lessar's  journey,  was  abandoned  by  the  inhabitants,  as  well  as 
another  fort  of  the  san&e  name,  erected  by  the  Tekkes  on  the  eastern 
bank,  and  situated  four  versts  south  of  the  Persian  fort  and  21j^  versts 
from  Dau-kala.  For  10  versts  (6f  miles)  more — that  is,  nearly  as  far  as 
the  hill  Shir-tepeh — the  road  follows  the  banks  of  the  Hari-riid ;  then  it 
turns  south-east,  and  leaves  the  river,  which  it  approaches  again  only 
at  Eusan.  From  this  turn  to  the  ruins  of  the  r<^t,  situated  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Barkhut  pass  (33  miles  from  Eusan),  the  general 
character  of  the  road  is  the  same :  it  goes  partly  through  a  flat  country 
and  partly  through  undulating,  hilly  tracts.  Steep  ascents  on  the  road 
are,  however,  rare,  and  little  labour,  at  a  few  places  only,  would  be 
required  to  render  it  perfectly  available  for  carriages.  There  are  plenty 
of  places  with  good  grass  for  horses. 

At  a  place  20  miles  distant  from  Nauruz-ab&d  there  is  a  karez 
half  a  verst  long;  that  is,  a  chain  of  wells  connected  together  by 
onderground  channels,  to  collect  water  from  the  ground ;  they  had  not 
been  cleaned  out  for  a  long  time,  but  formerly  they  contained  water 
available  for  drinking,  though  not  quite  sweet.  The  two  wells,  Adam- 
ydlan  (27^  miles  from  Nauriiz-ab4d)  are  25  feet  deep,  and  contain  plenty 
of  good  water;  there  is  excellent  grazing  ground  around  them.  At 
Agar-chisme  (8^  miles  from  these  wells)  M.  Lessar  found  an  excellent 
jspring,  and  8^  versts  further,  at  the  ruins  of  the  robat  Eungrueli,  again 
wells  with  plenty  of  water,  though  slightly  braokish. 


6       M.  p.  M,  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOUIINEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

Two  roads  led  from  this  place  to  Afghanistan.  One  of  them  goes 
through  Alc-robitt,  and  tho  other,  which  was  followed  by  M.  Lesaar^j 
through  Kizil-hulak  and  Khomlnliu.  After  having  traversed  26 j^  milee, 
M.  Lessar  reached  Kizil-bnlak,  a  rich  well  containing  sweet  water, 
sitnated  in  a  cleft  which  is  cut  in  red  sandstone,  and  nins  to  the  Hari- 
riid ;  other  26  versls  brought  him  to  the  mins  of  a  robat  situated  at  tho 
foot  of  the  pass  that  leads  across  the  Barkhut  mountains.  This  pass,  tho  1 
summit  of  which  (3100  feet  above  the  sea-level  and  900  feet  above  the-j 
adjacent  country)  is  reached  by  following  a  sraaHl  stream,  presents  no 
difficulties  to  the  traveller;  even  in  its  present  state  very  little  work 
would  bo  required  to  render  it  fully  available  for  wheel  traffic,  and  a 
good  highway  could  be  easily  laid  out  by  avoiding  a  few  steeper  slopes. 
The  Btirrounding  hills  are  sandstone.  The  descent  is  still  easier,  and 
perfectly  adapted  now  for  wheel  tmffic.  Half-way  along  is  a  spring, 
Khomlwu  (24  miles  from  Kizil-biilak),  and  two  versts  lower  tho  ruins  of 
the  rob^t  AMullah-khan.  Four  miles  farther  down  the  route  divides  into 
two  branches,  one  of  which  leads  to  Pesh-robat,  situate<i  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Hari-rud,  and  the  other  to  Kusan,  both  going  through  a  perfectly 
flat  country.  Kusiln  (30^  miles  from  KhomlKm)  is  tho  first  Afghan 
settlement  on  the  banks  of  the  Hari-riid  on  the  way  from  Mash-had 
(Meshed)  to  Afghanistan,  and  the  route  between  this  place  and  Herat 
along  the  north  bank  of  tho  Hari-rud  has  been  described  several  times 
by  English  and  Enssian  travellers. 

Oomparing  the  road  he  followed  with  other  roads  about  which  he 
obtained  information,  M.  Lessar  concludes  that  the  former  is  decidedly 
the  best  between  Sarakhs  and  KubaUj  and,  therefore,  between  Askabad 
and  Herat.  The  roads  which  lead  from  the  Caspian  to  Herat  via  Mash- 
had  present,  of  course,  many  advantages  on  account  of  their  passing 
through  inhabited,  cultivated,  and  well-watered  tracts,  but  they  have  to 
cross  several  chains  of  mountains  ;  and  to  construct  a  highway,  and  still 
more  a  i-ailway,  across  those  mountains  would  involve  a  very  great  amount 
of  laboTir.  Still  worse  in  this  respect  are  the  roads  from  Askabad  to 
Mash-had,  as  they  cross  the  Daman-i-koh  range.  The  Garmab  paas^ 
between  Geok-tepoh  and  Bujnird,  which  is  considered  the  easiest,  would 
present  immense  difficulties  for  a  railway ;  and  the  heavy  expense  thus 
incurred  could  hardly  be  compensated  by  any  advantages  of  increased 
traffic  through  the  more  densely  populated  districts  of  Khorassan  instead 
of  the  Atak.  If  a  railway  must  bo  built  within  a  short  space  of  time, 
there  can  be  no  hesitation  in  giving  the  preference  to  the  Sarakhs  route. 
The  whole  length  of  a  railway  from  Askabad  to  Herat,  vi4  Sarakhs, 
would  be  585  versts  (390  miles).  Of  this,  the  fii-st  200  and  the  last 
90  miles  would  require  no  earthwork  at  all  ;  and  on  the  middle  stretch, 
100  miles  long,  there  would  bo  no  more  earthwork  than  on  an  average 
railway  in  Eussia  in  Europe,  which  usually  runs  through  tracts  alter- 
nately flat  and  hilly.    The  Khombou  pass'  is  very  easy ;  but  of  course 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURIAN  NEAR  HERAT.  7 

there  would  be  a  certain  amount  of  earthwork  to  do  on  this  stretch, 
if  the  Barkhnt  mountains  were  to  be  crossed  by  a  railway.  Still,  if 
the  speedy  construction  of  a  railway  were  required,  the  work  in  the 
hilly  part  (including  some  steep  gradients,  usually  allowed  for  on  such 
routes)  need  not  be  behind  the  work  in  the  two  other  parts  in  point 
of  time,  this  being  an  immense  advantage  that  could  not  be  realised 
elsewhere. 

As  to  those  roads  between  Sarakhs  and  Herat  that  follow  the  Persian 
bank  of  the  Hari-riid,  they  have  the  advantage  of  leading  through  a 
well-watered  country,  but  they  have  also  to  cross  high  ranges  of  moun- 
tains. There  are  other  routes  of  less  importance  between  Herat  and  Merv, 
the  most  interesting  of  them  being  that  which  departs  from  the  road 
followed  by  M.  Lessar  at  Eungrueli.  It  goes  from  this  place  to  Ak-rob4t, 
a  locality  abounding  in  sweet  water  that  is  reached  by  wells  only  seven 
feet  deep;  thence  it  leads  to  Qurlin  and  Cheshmeh-sebz — two  sweet 
springs — and  crosses  the  Barkhut  mountains  by  following  the  course  of 
this  last  streamlet ;  this  pass  is  described  as  being  very  much  like  that 
of  Khombdu.  Beyond  the  pass,  one  road  leads  to  Eus&n,  through  a 
quite  flat  country,  and  the  other  to  Shakivan,  through  undulating  tracts. 
The  road  from  Merv  to  Ak-rob&t  proceeds  first  along  the  Murgh4b ; 
then,  along  the  Kushk  to  Ghemen-i-Bid  (the  willow-meadew),  described 
by  Shakespeare  and  Abbot,  where  it  turns  towards  Ak-rob&t.  This 
road  avoids  completely  the  passage  across  the  Paropamisus  range  at  the 
sources  of  the  Eushk ;  the  Barkhut  hills,  which  this  route  from  Merv  to 
Herat  crosses  at  Choshmeh-sebz,  are  in  reality  the  prolongation  of  the 
Paropamisus  range,  which  has  been  considered  as  an  insuperable  obstacle 
to  wheel  traffic.  The  whole  length  of  this  road,  from  Merv  to  Herat, 
is  380  versts  (258  miles). 

On  undertaking  his  journey,  M.  Lessar  did  not  intend  to  enter 
Afghanistan,  but  expected  to  follow  a  direct  road  from  Khombdu  to  Persia, 
vi4  the  ruins  of  Pesh-rob&t  (Toman- Agha).  There  are  two  or  three  fords 
across  the  Hari-rAd  available  for  this  route,  but  there  was  nobody  to  point 
them  out,  and  therefore  the  Russian  traveller  was  compelled  to  go  to  Kusan, 
to  find  there  the  necessary  guides.  At  this  last  place,  the  environs  of 
which  folly  exhibit  the  benefits  of  the  pacification  of  the  country,  the 
clay  homesteads  of  former  inhabitants  being  restored,  and  cultivated  fields 
extending  to  a  certain  distance  from  the  fort,  M.  Lessar  was  received  with 
great  astonishment,  but  otherwise  in  a  friendly  manner.  The  oom- 
mander  of  the  fort  of  Eusdn,  however,  refused  to  give  guides,  and  sent 
a  messenger  to  Herat,  to  ask  his  superiors  what  to  do  with  the  unexpected 
traveller ;  M.  Lessar  proposed  in  the  meantime  to  go  to  Ghuri&n,  to  wait 
there  for  the  answer,  which  proposal  was  readily  agreed  to,  as  the 
responsibility  of  the  Ehan  of  Eus^  was  thus  shifted  to  his  superior, 
the  Ehan  of  Ghuridn.  At  Ghuii&n,  M.  Lessar  was  very  well  received,  and 
the  next  day,  a  special  envo^  of  the  ruler  of  Herat,  Nizdm-ed-din-khan — 


8       M.  P.  M.  LESSAB'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

an  intelligent  and  clever  man,  better  known  under  the  name  of  Akhnnd- 
z&deh  (i.  e.  the  priest's  eon) — arrived  with  a  numerous  escort  from  Herat 
to  inquire  as  to  the  object  of  M.  Lessar's  journey.  The  curiosity  of  the 
Afghan  diplomatist  having  been  satisfied,  the  Russian  surveyor  was 
permitted  to  continue  his  journey,  and  on  May  12th  he  left  Ghuridn  for 
Mash-had. 

The  road  runs  first  through  rich  pasture-grounds  covered  with  herds 
of  sheep  and  horses,  the  latter  being  the  chief  export  from  Afghanistan 
to  Persia ;  the  studs  around  Ghuri^n  are  said  to  number  as  many  as 
40,000  head.  The  road,  which  takes  a  north-western  direction,  soon 
leaves  the  banks  of  the  Hari-nid  and  crosses  a  low  spur  of  the  mountains. 
The  wide  valley  beyond  is  spotted  with  ruins  of  robdts  and  clay  hovels ; 
indeed,  every  yard  of  this  road  bears  traces  of  the  incursions  of  the 
Mervis  and  Saryks.  The  buildings  are  in  ruins  and  the  karezes  filled 
with  mud.  Altogether  water  is  scanty ;  a  streamlet,  the  Shur-4u  (salt 
water),  which  takes  its  origin  in  the  hills  to  the  north,  contains  some 
water  only  after  rain,  like  all  the  other  streamlets  in  the  district  of 
Bakharz  which  is  situated  to  the  north  of  the  road.  Within  one  verst  of 
the  Shur-au,  the  guide  showed  M.  Lessar  the  ruins  of  an  Afghan  settle- 
ment, said  to  be  the  present  boundary  between  Persia  and  Afghani- 
stan, which  would  thus  have  a  more  westerly  position  than  on  our 
maps.  Many  artificial  mounds,  like  those  of  the  Atak,  are  spread  over 
the  valley,  and  the  Afghans  regard  them  as  remains  of  forts  erected 
by  Nadir-shah. 

Herat,  situated  at  the  spot  where  the  road  from  Mash-had  emerges 
from  the  mountains,  is  at  present  of  great  importance  for  the  protection 
of  the  Persian  frontier  from  Turkoman  raids;  detachments  of  soldiers 
are  continually  sent  therefrom  to  the  different  passes  which  lead  across 
the  mountains,  and  so  the  highway  between  Khif  and  Mash-had  is 
maintained  almost  quite  secure.  After  having  crossed  a  first  range 
of  hills  by  a  route  nearly  devoid  of  fuel  and  with  very  little  grazing 
ground,  M.  Lessar  reached  Eh4f,  the  residence  of  the  English  agent, 
Colonel  Stewart,  who  ptefers  to  stay  in  Persia  and  to  travel  in  the 
neighbourhood,  instead  of  at  Herat,  among  the  Afghans.  Khdf  consists 
of  several  forts ;  the  shops  in  the  bazaar  are  quite  empty,  all  trade 
being  carried  on  within  the  forts,  which  are  surrounded  by  beautiful 
gardens  and  plantations  of  teriak  (opium),  mulberry,  and  fruit  trees. 
The  wares  in  the  shops  are  mostly  of  Persian  origin,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  English  and  Russian  goods. 

Between  Kh&f  and  Turbat-i-Haidari  the  road  follows  a  broad  valley 
inclosed  between  high  mountains  to  the  east  and  low  hills  to  the  west. 
It  is  well  peopled,  and  our  maps  do  not  show  all  the  settlements ;  perhaps 
many  of  them  are  of  recent  origin,  since  the  Saryks  do  not  venture  to 
push  their  raids  into  the  valley ;  but  a  further  increase  of  the  population 
will  soon  be  checked  by  the  scarcity  of  water.    Each  village  with  its 


ASKABAD  TO  OHURIAN  NEAR  HERAT.  9 

gardens  and  fields  covered  with  barley,  wheat,  trefoil,  and  ieriak^  appears 
as  a  pretty  green  cluster  amidst  the  dry  surrounding  region  that  does 
not  produce  even  the  smallest  patch  of  grass  or  brushwood.  Grass  is  so 
scarce  that  only  khans  can  keep  horses  ;  whole  villages  have  not  a  single 
horse,  and  aU  traflSc  is  carried  on  by  donkeys.  The  scarcity  of  wood  for 
building  purposes  has  originated  the  well-known  special  type  of  Persian 
building,  subdivided  into  small  compartments  by  rows  of  pillars  which 
support  small  arches.  Robats,  erected  close  by  small  streams  or  hawzea 
(cistems),  are  numerous. 

Tnrbat-i-Haidari,  one  of  the  largest  towns  of  this  par^of  Persia,  is 
smroTuided  by  beautiful  gardens  which  the  party  took  one  hour  to  cross. 
It  has  also  an  excellent  bazaar,  which  is  built  of  bricks  and  shaped  Uke 
«  T,  with  spacious  shops  and  wide  arcades  between.  The  articles  of 
trade  are  the  same  as  in  Mash-had,  that  is,  food  produce,  stuffs,  and  all 
kinds  of  necessaries  for  travelling  on  horseback,  tea,  French  sugar,'  lamps, 
iron  and  glass  ware,  and  jewellery. 

The  road  between  Turbat-i-Haidari  and  Mash-had  is  very  difficult. 
It  crosses  three  chains  of  mountains,  the  passes  reaching  6500  feet  above 
the  sea-leveL  The  slopes  on  which  the  road  ascends  are  very  steep 
especially  between  Eafir-kala  and  Turukh ;  even  donkeys  were  continu- 
ally slipping  and  falling  on  the  stones.  There  is  plenty  of  water  all  along 
the  road,  but  no  grazing  grounds,  nor  fuel ;  even  in  villages  wood  is 
dear  and  not  found  everywhere.  Still  the  road  is  very  busy,  especially 
on  the  approach  to  Mash-had,  with  caravans  and  numerous  pilgrims  who 
go  to  the  holy  city  of  the  Persians. 

After  a  few  days'  rest  at  Mash-had,  M.  Lessar  started,  on  May  21st, 
for  Tnrbat-i-Sheikh-Jdm  on  his  return  journey  to  Sarakhs.  ■  There  are 
several  roads  which  connect  these  two  places.  The  English  maps  give 
that  which  runs  close  by  the  foot  of  the  mountains  and  was  frequented 
formerly  when  the  highway  was  not  safe.  The  Bussian  map  shows 
another  road  situated  a  little  lower ;  but  this  also  passes  over  the  slopes 
of  the  hills  and  has  to  cross  several  deep  ravines.  At  present,  the  tndSfio 
follows  a  third  road,  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  that  is,  through 
Ferimun,  Eatty-Shemshir,  and  the  ruins  of  Eheir-abad  and  Lenkar ;  this 
is  far  better  than  the  two  former,  and  shorter  by  about  10  versts.  In 
comparison  with  the  road  to  Khaf,  it  is  a  desert,  traces  of  recent  raids  of 
Turkomans  appearing  everywhere  ,*  still,  at  present  this  country  also  is 
becoming  more  animated.  The  road  goes  mostly  on  flat  ground,  and 
has  to  cross  some  ravines  and  hills,  only  on  the  stretch  four  miles  long 
between  Hussein-abad  and  Ferimun,  that  is,  on  the  water-divide  between 
the  Eara-s6  and  J&m  rivers.  The  buildiiig  of  a  railway  would,  however, 
meet  with  no  difficulties,  and  beyond  Ferimun  the  ground  is  again 
quite  flat.  There  is  .plenty  of  water  all  along  this  route,  and  many 
settlements.  Only  those  of  Hussein-abad,  Kheir-abad,  Haus-sefid,  and 
Abbas-abdd  are  deserted,    the    cistern   of   Hauz-sefid   being  further 


10     M.  P.  M.  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

destFoyed.  The  inhabitantB  are  Persians,  excepting  at  Lenkar  where 
there  are  many  Salyrs  who  settled  there  some  30  years  since ;  and  whose 
langnage  is  now  a  mixture  of  Turkish  and  Persian.  For  the  protection 
of  the  country  £rom  robbers,  two  places,  Bujgun  and  Mohsin-abad,  are 
occupied  by  horse-militia ;  400  men  stay  at  Bujgun  and  100  at  Mohsin- 
abad  which  is  a  village  with  800  houses,  abundantly  provided  with  water 
fix)m  harezes.  The  Mohsin-abad  s6,  a  tributary  of  tiie  Hari-r6d  which  we 
see  on  our  maps,  is  known  in  the  country  under  the  name  of  Bavas ;  it  is 
not  a  river,  but  a  simple  ravine  that  contains  some  water  after  heavy 
rains.  Altogether,  our  maps  with  their  numerous  rivers  and  affluents  in 
the  basin  of  the  Hari-rfid  are  well  calculated  to  mislead ;  in  reality  these 
rivers  are  but  so  many  dry  ravines.  As  to  rivers,  there  are  only  two, 
the  ELsra-sn  and  the  J&m ;  the  latter  has  a  continuous  current  of  water 
from  the  ruins  of  Eheir-abad  to  the  Hari-rdd,  but  it  has  no  affluents. 
The  Taibad-BU  does  not  reach  the  Hari-r^d,  all  the  water  being  drawn  from 
it  for  irrigation  at  Taibad.  Altogether  it  may  be  said  that  water  in  this 
countiy  is  rather  scanty. 

Fiom  Mohsin-abad  M.  Lessar  went  to  Eehriz,  through  a  quite  flat 
country.  All  villages  are  in  ruins,  and  only  recently  has  the  population 
begun  to  return  to  their  homes.  The  rob4t  Dogarou  on  the  Afghan 
boundary  is  also  a  heap  of  ruins.  From  Dogarou  are  easily  seen  the 
fort  and  robdt  Kafir-kaleh,  where  five  men  come  every  day  from  Eus&n  to 
watch  the  ford.  At  this  place  M.  Lessar  turned  towards  the  north-east 
and  soon  reached  the  Hari-riid  at  Pesh-robdt  (Toman- Agha) — ^a  hospice 
which  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  daughter  of  Timur ;  at  least, 
the  Khan  of  Mohsin-abad  said  that  an  inscription  on  the  greystone-facade 
of  the  robat  has  this  meaning.  The  solid  building  of  bricks  has  re- 
mained until  now;  its  proportions  are  really  remarkable  by  their 
grandeur,  and  the  arches  are  still  in  a  good  state. 

Three  different  roads  led  from  Dogarou  to  Ziir-abad.  One  of  them 
crosses  the  Haxi-rud,  enters  the  interior  of  the  country,  to  avoid  the 
mountains  throngh  which  the  river  has  cut  its  bed,  and  joins  it  again 
at  Zta-a.h&d.  The  Hari-rM  must  thus  be  forded  twice,  which  is  very  in- 
convenient during  the  rainy  season ;  besides,  the  road  in  the  narrow 
ravines  of  the  right  bank  is  said  to  be  difficult.  The  second  road,  followed 
by  M.  Lessar,  is  a  mere  footpath  in  the  mountains  that  often  completely 
disappears.  It  follows  first  the  banks  of  the  river  to  Kalsan-kala ;  then 
it  turns  to  the  west  and  crosses  the  J4m,  three  versts  above  its  junction 
with  the  Hari-r6d ;  thence  it  crosses-a  hilly  tract,  passing  by  the  ruins  of 
Ealeh-i-Melou,  and  at  a  distance  of  eight  versts  from  this  last  place 
enters  the  mountains.  The  road  disappears,  and  a  small  path  which  often 
is  hardly  perceived,  leads  through  narrow  ravines,  climbs  high  passes,  and 
descends  into  deep  valleys.  The  slopes  of  these  mountains  are  covered 
with  trees,  and  quite  a  forest  is  seen  at  the  Ghelebet  streamlet ;  there  is 
plenty  of  water  and  grazing  grounds  everywhere ;  but  to  render  this 


JkSKABAD  TO  GHURIAK  NEAR  HERAT.  11 

road  available  for  wheel-traffio  is  entirely  ont  of  question.  The  third 
road  is  the  longest,  but  also  the  best ;  it  leads  through  Turbat-i>Sheikh- 
i-J£m  and  Lenkar  to  Ztu>ab^ ;  and  there  is  only  one  marbh  to  make 
through  the  mountains. 

Z6i^b^  has  lately  acquired  importanoe,  some  2000  kebitkas  of  Salyrs 
having  settled  there,  with  the  permission  of  the  Persian  Government. 
Fonnerly,  they  resided  at  Old  Sarakhs,  but  about  the  years  1870-72  they 
were  attacked  by  Mervis  who  took  all  their  oattle  and  forced  most  of  them 
to  emigrate  to  Merv,  where  however  "they  received  no  land,  but  were 
compelled  either  to  live  on  cattle-breeding,  or  to  become  labourers  to  the 
Tekkes.  During  the  expedition  of  1880-81,  there  were  4000  kebitkas  of 
Salyrs  at  Merv,  and  the  other  parts  of  this  tribe  were  scattered  at  different 
pboes,  namdy,  about  1000  kebitkas  on  the  Murgh&b  among  the  Saiyks, 
400  at  CharjM,  200  at  Maymeneh,  and  about  100  houses  at  Ful-i-saUr 
cilofle  by  Herat.  Last  year,  the  Mervis  were  induced  by  Tykma-serdar  not 
to  detain  the  Salyrs  longer,  and  2000  kebitkas  of  this  tribe  emigrated  to 
Sarakhs;  but  the  land  around  Sarakhs  was  too  good  for  them,  and  the 
PersiAn  Government  accordingly  proposed  to  them  to  settle  at  Ziir-ab4d, 
expecting  that  their  settlements  would  be  a  usefixl  barrier  against  the 
laHa  of  Saiyks  and  Mervis.  The  Salyrs  are  the  weakest  Turkoman 
tribe  and  oonld  not  maintain  by  force  their  rights  on  Old  Sarakhs; 
besides  they  came  firom  Merv  quite  destitute,  without  having  com  for 
sowing;'  and  thus  they  were  compelled  to  accept  the  proposal  of  the 
Persian  Government.  But  they  are  anything  but  mtisfied  with  Z6r- 
ab^d,  where  the  streamlets'  run  in  narrow  valleys  and  land  suited  to 
irrigaticm  and  culture  is  very  limited ;  they  are  all  the  more  discontented 
that  the  2000  kebitkas  of  the  same  tribe  who  remained  at  Merv  desire 
to  join  their  countrymen  and  to  settle  all  together ;  but  there  is  no 
land  for  that  purpose  around  Ztff-ab&d. 

Two  roads  lead  from  Z6r-«b&d  to  Pul-i-khattin :  one  of  them  goes  by 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Hari-r6d  and  crosses  it  twice ;  the  other  remains 
on  the  Persian  bank  and  crosses  high  mountains  with  steep  slopes  to 
Dehna-der-bend ;  at  this  place  it  descends  to  the  Hari-r6d  and  follows  its 
course  to  Sarakhs.  The  name  of  Pul-i-khattin  signifies  "  the  bridge  of 
the  lady  " ;  there  is,  indeed,  a  bridge  175  feet  long  across  the  Hari-r^d, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  a  woman  whose  name  is  unknown  to 
the  Tekkes ;  four  arches  of  it  are  still  in  good  condition,  but  the  fifth 
was  destroyed  by  Medhly-khan  during  his  march  on  Merv. 

On  May  30th,  M.  Lessar  was  at  Sarakhs,  after  having  thus  successfully 
explored  the  country  between  Sarakhs,  Mash-had,  and  Herat,  and  ob- 
tained so  much  valuable  information  as  to  the  roads,  formerly  quite 
unknown,  which  unite  together  these  three  important  places.  Although 
not  rich,  in  scientific  observations,  this  journey  is  surely  a  great  addition 
to  our  very  imperfect  knowledge  as  to  the  topography  of  this  oountry. 


12     M.  p.  M.  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

Major-General  Sir  Henry  Bawlinson  read  the  following  notes  on  the 
foregoing  paper : — 

M.  Lessar's  report  of  his  journey  from  Askabad  to  Herat  is  a 
very  interesting  document,  and  the  unpretentious  way  in  which  it  is 
drawn  up  enhances  its  value  in  the  eyes  of  geographers.  M.  Lcssar 
has  now  supplied  the  missing  link  in  the  trace  of  the  direct  line  of 
communication  between  Bussia  and  India,  dissipating  the  fallacies  which 
haye  hitherto  obscured  the  subject,  and  giving  us  for  the  first  time  a 
true  contour  sketch  of  the  face  of  the  country.  Over  and  over  again  in 
this  hall  and  at  other  public  meetings  have  I  heard  florid  allusions  to  the 
"pathless  deserts"  and  the  "inaccessible  mountain  ranges"  which  nature 
has  built  up  as  a  bamer  against  all  approach  to  India  from  the  north 
and  north-west.  Only  in  the  last  number  of  the  Nineteenth  Century  I 
read  from  the  pen  of  one  of  our  most  accomplished  political  writers, 
and  in  deprecation  of  the  notion  of  any  possible  advance  of  the  Bussian 
power  towards  India :  "  It  is  one  thing  to  be  brought  into  collision  with 
barbarous  tribes,  to  subdue  and  to  annex  them ;  it  is  another  to  cross 
a  great  mountain  chain  for  the  purpose  of  invading  the  territory  of  a 
civilised  power."  Now  this  "  great  mountain  chain,"  which,  according 
to  the  optimist  school,  is  to  serve  as  a  palladium  for  India,  turns  out,  on 
the  showing  of  M.  Lessar,  to  be  a  mere  paltry  line  of  sandstone  hills, 
not  1000  feet  in  height,  which  could  be  crossed  by  a  carriage  road  in  a 
couple  of  hours,  and  which  would  crumble  before  the  touch  of  a  Bussian 
railway  engineer.  If  M.  Lessar  had  done  nothing  more  than  explode 
the  Paropamisus  bugbear,  which  assumed  that  the  mountains  north  of 
Oabul,  20,000  feet  in  height,  were  prolonged  at  the  same  elevation  to 
the  westward,  he  would  have  rendered  us  an  important  national  service ; 
but  he  has  done  much  more.  He  has  traced  with  the  eye  of  an 
engineering  geographer  the  line  of  the  Bussian  advance,  in  the  past 
and  in  the  future,  from  the  Caspian  to  Askabad,  from  Askabad  to 
Sarakhs,  and  from  Sarakhs  to  Herat,  and  he  has  shown  that,  as  far  as 
physical  diflficulties  are  concerned,  there  is  no  reason  why,  at  any  time 
and  within  the  limitation  of  a  few  months,  a  continuous  railway  should 
not  be  built  from  the  Caspian  to  the  western  Afghan  capital ;  to  which 
I  may  add  that  if  that  work  were  once  executed,  a  week  would  suffice 
for  the  transport  of  merchandise  (and  if  merchandise,  why  not  troops 
and  stores?)  from  the  Caucasus  headquarters  to  Herat. 

But  I  will  now  follow  M.  Lessar  more  into  detail.  He  dwells  but 
little  on  the  earlier  section  of  the  Bussian  line,  having  exhausted  that 
subject  in  his  earlier  reports.  It  is  now  well  known  that  a  line  of  rails 
had  been  laid  down  from  the  Bay  of  Michailovsk,  near  the  old  mouth  of 
the  Oxus,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Caspian,  to  Bami,  at  the  opening 
of  the  Akh41  oasis,  and  that  a  tramway  is  being  constructed  from  Bami 
to  Askabad.  To  connect  Michailovsk  with  Krasnovodsk,  where  alone 
there  is  anchorage  in  deep  water  adequate  to  the  requirements  of  a  great 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURIAN  NEAR  HERAT.  18 

Asiatic  terminus,  a  branch  line  of  some  50  or  60  miles  will  have  to  be 
oonstmcted,  making  the  total  length  of  the  line  from  the  Caspian  to  the 
Bnssian  headquarters  in  Akh41  about  380  miles,  which  is  a  little  under 
my  former  estimate.  It  is  considered  by  the  Bussian  officers  that  a 
mistake  has  been  made  in  selecting  Askabad  for  the  headquarters 
site  rather  than  Qeok-tepeh,  which  is  situated  at  the  point  where  the 
Khorassan-Khiva  road,  running  north  and  south,  crosses  the  Akh&l-Merv 
road  running  east  and  west,  and  which  is  also  surrounded  by  a  richer 
and  better  watered  country.  Askabad,  indeed,  at  present  is  very 
indifferently  supplied  both  with  water  and  provisions,  and  until 
relieved  by  a  tramway  or  railway  from  the  westward,  will  always  be  in 
difficulties. 

The  second  section  of  the  contemplated  Russian  line — that  stretching 
from  Askabad  to  Sarakhs— is  described  in  some  detail  in  M.  Lessar's 
report,  and  merits  our  close  attention.  From  the  descriptions  of  previous 
travellers,  and  especially  from  the  reports  of  Major  Napier,  who  person- 
ally inspected  a  considerable  stretch  of  the  Atak  region,  we  were  already 
sufficiently  acquainted  with  its  general  character.  We  knew  that  the 
range,  at  the  foot  of  which  stretched  the  high  road  from  Kizil  Bobat  to 
Askabad,  running  nearly  west  and  east,  trended  to  the  south  after 
passing  Deregez,  and  gradually  diminished  in  height  and  boldness. 
We  knew  also  that  the  slopes  of  the  range  facing  the  desert  retained 
the  name  of  Atak  (Attok),  or  "  the  skirt,"  and  were  sparsely  inhabited  by 
Turkoman  colonists,  who  paid  the  zakkdty  or  "  tithe  "  to  the  chiefs  of  the 
overhanging  Persian  hills  for  the  privilege  of  using  the  water  that 
descended  from  them  for  the  cultivation  of  their  fields.  In  discussing 
the  probable  advance  of  Bussia  along  this  line  on  the  occasion  of  Mr. 
O'Donovan's  paper  on  Merv  being  read  at  our  evening  meeting  on  March 
27th  of  this  year,  I  assumed,  as  I  had  every  reason  to  assume,  that  the 
Persian  nationality  of  this  Atak  district  was  undisputed,  and  that  it 
could  not  therefore  be  traversed  by  a  Bussian  railroad,  except  under 
the  authority  of  some  special  arrangement  with  the  Shah.  As  a  matter 
of  history,  it  was  notorious  that  the  slopes  in  question,  from  Akh^l 
to  Sarakhs,  had  always  been  an  integral  portion  of  the  province  of 
Ehorassan.  Nissa,  Abiverd,  and  Mehna,  all  lying  in  this  Atak  region, 
had  all  been  provincial  capitals,  ranking  with  Nishapur  and  Tus, 
under  every  Persian  dynasty  down  to  comparatively  modem  times; 
and  although  the  Akhdls  in  the  course  of  the  present  generation  had 
forcibly  possessed  themselves  of  the  western  portion  of  the  Atak,  no 
such  disturbance  of  frontier  had  taken  place  east  of  Deregez,  nor,  as 
far  as  I  was  aware,  had  it  been  ever  contemplated.  I  was  thus  not  a 
little  disconcerted  at  finding  that  M.  Lessar,  speaking  no  doubt  with  a 
knowledge  of  the  views  of  the  Bussian  Government,  professed  to  regard 
the  nationality  of  the  Atak  as  an  open  question,  and  even  suggested 
that  the  Persian  mountain  chiefs  were  oppressing  the  Tekkd  agricul- 


14     M.  P.  M.  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

turists  by  interfering  with  their  water  supply,  rather  than  that  the 
Turkomans  were  squatting  upon  Persian  lands  and  infringing  npon 
Persian  rights.  According,  indeed,  to  present  appearances,  there  is 
likely  to  be  a  repetition  in  an  amended  form  of  the  old  fable  of  the 
wolf  and  the  lamb.  The  wolf  desires  a  right  of  way  through  the  fold, 
and  the  flocks,  therefore,  at  present  in  possession  will  be  declared  to 
have  no  right  to  the  lands. 

But  apart  from  all  consideration  of  political  questions,  M.  Lessar's 
report  contains  a  vast  amount  of  valuable  information  relating  to 
statistics  and  -  geography.  His  remarks  on  the  lower  course  of  the 
Tejend  go  far  to  confirm  the  view  which  I  have  already  ventilated  on 
more  than  one  occasion  before  this  Society,  that  there  was  in  very  early 
times  a  large  lake  to  the  north  of  Sarakhs,  which  was  fed  by  the  Tejend, 
the  Murgh&b,  the  Persian  streams  from  £eUt  and  Abiverd,  and 
especially  by  the  southern  arm  pf  the  Ozus,  then  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Aces  or  Ochus  (modem  Ogoez),  This  lake,  which,  like  the  lake  of 
Seistan,  fluctuated  according  to  the  influx  from  the  rivers  between  a 
large  open  expanse  of  water  and  a  mere  reedy  morass,  was,  according 
to  my  views,  known  to  the  ancients  as  the  "  Aria  Palus,"  from  which 
there  was  a  water  way  to  the  Caspian.*  "When  the  southern  stream  of 
the  Oxus,  the  principal  feeder  of  the  Aria  Palus,  was  diverted  to  the 
northward  the  lake  of  course  dried  up,  but  the  pools  and  lagoons  which 
now  occur  along  the  course  of  the  Tejend,  together  with  the  hard 
alluvial  soil  which  is  everywhere  found  a  few  feet  below  the  drifting 
sand,  are  ample  evidence  of  its  former  existence,  and  it  is  hardly 
extravagant  to  speculate  that  in  the  not  very  remote  future,  under 
skilful  Russian  engineering,  those  colossal  irrigation  works  may  be 
restored,  the  report  of  which  excited  the  admiration  of  Uerodotus  and 
caused  Pliny  to  describe  the  plain  below  Abiverd,  as  "  fertilitatis  inditce 
locus."t  Another  valuable  notice,  fiimished  by  M.  Lessar,  and  which  is 
entirely  new,  refers  to  the  name  of  Arakaj,  applied  to  the  country  by 
the  Persian  inhabitants  in  lieu  of  the  Turkish  "  Attok,"  or  skirt.  This 
is  a  real  etymological  discovery,  for  Arakaj,  by  retrenching  the/,  which 
is  the  usual  dialectic  termination  of  the  old  eastern  Persian  names, 
becomes  Araka,  or  Araga,  a  name  that  nearly  represents  the  Bagau  of 
Isidore,  joined  with  Abiverd,  and  frirther  shows  us  that  Baga,  still  used 
by  the  Afghans  for  "  the  skirt  of  a  hill,"|  really  had  that  meaning  in 
the  old  Persian  language.§ 

•  The  Aria  Palus  of  Ptolemy  has  hitherto  heen  turaally  identified  with  the  Lake  of 
Seistan,  bat  it  mnst  he  obsenred  that  the  river  Apeias  (or  Hari-nid),  coming  f^om  the 
Paropamisns,  is  made  to  flow  northward  into  it;  and  that  Ammianns  adds  **  unde  navi- 
ganti  ad  Caspium  more  qningenta  stadia  nnmerantar  et  mille."  The  distance  to  the 
Caspian  may  be  too  short,  bat  the  direction  certainly  points  to  the  Tejend  swamp. 

t  Nat.  Hist.,  vi.  16. 

X  I  state  this  on  the  authority  of  Raverty,  *  Afghan  Papers,*  p.  74. 

§  The  discovery  that  Eaga  or  Arga  is  a  genuine  old  Persian  word  for  **  the  ddrt  of 
a  hill"  leads  to  many  important  explanations.    It  supplies  a  meaning  for  the  old 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURIAN  N£AB  HERAT.  15 

Another  etymological  correction  which  I  must  offer  whilst  on  this 
subject,  refeni  to  a  statement  in  Colonel  Stewart's  paper  of  last  year, 
whioh  was  allowed  to  pass  at  the  time  through  inadvertence,  and  which 
has  since,  I  fear,  exposed  us  to  the  ridicule  of  our  Bussian  critics. 
Colonel  Stewart,  it  may  be  remembered,  alluded  to  the  many  traces 
of  Christian  worship  in  Khorassan,  and  based  his  argument  on  the 
finequent  occurrence  of  the  word  KUUehy  "a  church"  (i.e.  €KKXii(ria)  in 
the  modem  nomenclature  of  the  province.  Having  occasion  lately  to 
consult  his  paper  in  connection  with  M.  Lessar's  report,  I  was  struck 
with  this  statement,  and  referred  to  the  names  quoted  in  support  of  it, 
when  I  at  once  perceived  that  he  had  confounded  KiUseh,  **  a  church,'* 
with  the  colloquial  Turkish  Kelesij  **  his  fort,"  where  the  suffix  of  the 
third  person  is  added  to  Eelehf  "  a  fort,"  to  individualise  the  name : — 
Khoja  Kelesi,  meaning  merely  *'  Ehoja,  his  fort " ;  Khara  Khan  Eelesi, 
'*Khara  Khan,  his  fort,"  and  so  on.  In  one  instance,  that  of  Tepeh 
Ealisa  at  Jul£in,  in  Derisgez,  Colonel  Stewart  may  have  been  right  in 
suspecting  the  remains  of  a  Christian  church,  but  in  all  his  other 
examples  he  is  on  a  false  scent. 

But  M.  Lessar's  chief  attention  has  been  bestowed  on  the  third 
section  of  the  proposed  Bussian  line  between  Sarakhs  and  Herat ;  and 
here  his  explorations  have  the  merit  not  only  of  scientific  accuracy,  but 
of  absolute  novelty,  for  no  European  traveller  has  previously  passed 
through  this  district  of  Badgheis,  along  the  line  of  the  Hari-rfid ;  nor  is 
there  any  notice  to  be  found  in  the  Arab  geographers  of  a  high  road  of 
commeroe  having  ever  followed  this  particular  direction.  Badgheis, 
which  comprises  the  entire  region  between  the  Murghdb  and  the  Hari- 
rid  as  far  as  the  confines  of  the  desert,  has  been  always  celebrated  in 
the  East  for  its  sylvan  character.  The  Pehlevi  Bundehesh  says  "  it  is 
full  of  timber  and  fall  of  trees,"  and  the  geographers  specify  among  its 
products  the  poplar  and  plane  and  pistachio  trees ;  but  this  description 
probably  refers  to  the  eastern  portion  of  the  province  where  it  joined 
Baghshiir  and  Gharshist&n  on  the  upper  Murgh&b.  When  first 
invaded  by  the  Arabs  at  the  end  of  the  seventh  century  of  Christ, 
Badgheis  was  still  held  by  the  Hiydtheleh  or  White  Huns,  the  Tokhari 
of  an  earlier  age,  who  were  themselves  descended  from  the  Hioung-nu 
and  were  the  progenitors  of  the  Ghiizor  Turkomans.*    It  contained  two 

Median  capital  of  Bhagee  (Arhagi  of  Strabo,  p.  512),  lying  on  the  slrirta  of  Elbnrz  and 
jaiiiing  Dtunghan,  also  derived  from  Domum,  **  a  skirt."  It  farttier  explains  the  Bagh  of 
BadalrhwhaTi  lying  on  the  skirts  of  the  Darw4«  range,  and  possibly  also  the  Arghaasin 
(fior  Arghastin)  of  Afghanistan;  and,  finally,  it  suggests  that  the  Bagha  of  the 
Yendidad,  the  twelfth  place  created  by  Ormazd,  may  be  identified  with  the  Daman,  or 
skirts  of  the  Soleiman  range,  associated  as  the  name  is  in  the  Zend  geographicf^l  list 
with  Varena,  or  ^amw  (Falani  of  the  Chinese),  and  with  '*  the  Seven  Bivers  "  or  the 
Punjab. 

^  .  •  The  chief  argmnent  in  favour  of  a  continuity  of  succession  from  the  Hioung-nu  to 
the  Turkomans  consists  iu  the  identity  of  the  royal  title  used  by  this  great  Turkish 
tnbe  in  its  various  changes  of  name  and  habitat.     The  Chen-yu  or  Jen-yu  of  the 


16      M.  p.  M,  LESSARS  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNT  R 

cities,  Baiin  and  Bamyin,  wUch  were  probably  on  the  Knshk  river  or 
some  of  the  smaller  affluents  of  the  Murghdb,  as  they  w^e  visited  by 
the  geographer  Yaout  on  his  passage  from  Herat  to  Merv ;  but  all  traces 
of  them,  as  well  as  of  the  towns  of  Eulwin  and  Baghshur,*  captured  by 
Jenghiz  Khan,  seem  to  have  now  vanished. 

I  have  stated  that  there  never  was  a  high  road  through  Badgheis 
along  the  lino  of  the  Hari-rud.  The  immediate  banks  of  the  river  were 
impracticable,  and  the  north-western  portion  of  the  district  away  from 
the  river  was  but  poorly  supplied  with  water.  In  describing,  indeed, 
the  cross-line  .which  led  from  Sarakhs  to  Balkh,  viit  Merv-er-rdd, 
Hamdullah  expressly  says  that  there  waa  no  running  water  for  four 
stages,  or  about  100  miles,  the  rob&ts  which  had  been  erected  for 
travellers  along  the  route,  and  which  faced  the  northern  desert,  being 
supplied  by  wells  and  cisterns.!  The  line  throughout  Badgheis  further 
to  the  east,  which  connected  Merv  and  Herat,  and  followed  the  affluents 
of  the  Murghab,  was  far  better  supplied.  That  line,  however,  which 
was  traversed  and  described  by  Abbott  and  Shakespeare  in  1840-41,  is 
outside  of  the  present  inquiry. 

M.  Lessar's  route  may  be  thus  briefly  described.  Crossing  the 
Hari-riid  at  Sarakhs  he  follows  the  river  more  or  less  closely  for  30  miles. 
He  then  makes  a  detour  into  the  interior  to  the  e&st,  through  a  country 
entirely  devoid  of  inhabitants,  but  with  occasional  wells  and  karezes,  for 
77i  miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  Barkhut  Pass,  by  which  the  great  Paro- 
pamisus  range,  here  dwindled  to  insigniflcant  hills  900  feet  above  the 
plain,  is  crossed.  The  ascent  and  descent  of  the  pass  do  not  measure 
more  than  a  few  miles,  and  the  total  remaining  distance,  from  the  robat 
north  of  the  range  to  Kus&n,  the  first  permanent  Afghan  settlement,  on 

Hionng-DU  is  thus  constantly  mentioned  by  the  Chinese  in  the  first  century  before 
Christ,  The  debris  of  this  tribe ,  called  by  the  Chinese  Turlo-ho  (i.  e.  Tokhari)  afterwards 
occupied  Tokharistdn,  and  the  Eharlnkh  chief  of  that  district,  ifho  fought  with  the 
Arabs  in  a.d.  119,  is  thus  named  by  Ibn  Athir,  Jenuyeh  (vol.  v.  p.  148),  while  Biruni 
has  left  on  record  that  in  his  time  the  same  title  (misread  by  Sachau  as  Ha  nut  a)  was 
borne  by  the  Chief  of  the  Ghuz-Turks,  whom  wo  know  to  be  the  some  as  the  modem 
Turkomans.    '  Chronology,'  p.  109. 

Yaciit  says  distinctly  that  Badgheis  had  been  the  Ddr-el-Muik,  or  seat  of  government, 
of  the  Hiyatheleh,  who  moved  there  from  Tokharistan ;  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
Bundehesh  alludes  to  this  early  settlement  of  Turks  on  the  Upper  Murgh&b,  in 
describing  Bakyit  (or  Bakeser  according  to  de  Perron),  the  modern  Bagshtir,  as  the 
stronghold  of  Afrasiab.    See  '  Sacred  Books  of  the  East,'  vol.  v.  p.  38. 

*  The  Bundehesh,  in  noticing  this  district,  says  that  "  in  \ixe  days  of  Yim  a  myriad 
towns  and  cities  were  erected  on  its  pleasant  and  prosperous  territory." 

t  The  names  of  these  robats  intervening  between  Sarakhs  and  Merv-or-rud  on  the 
Murghab  were —  Fare. 

Robat  Ja'aferi       9 

Mil-i-Omari 7 

Eobdt-i-Abu  Ma'ima 7 

Diz  Hindu  or  Kasari 7 

Hokadassi  gives  the  same  route  with  ijlght  variations. 


ASKABAD  TO  QHURIAN,  NEAR  HERAT.  17 

the  Hari-rdd  and  near  the  opening  of  the  Herat  plain,  is  only  37^  miles. 
At  this  point  all  difficulties  cease  and  a  carriage  and  four  may  he  driven 
&om  Knsdn  to  our  outpost  of  Chaman  at  the  Khojak  Pass,  north  of  Fishin. 

A  word,  however,  may  now  properly  be  said  as  to  the  territorial 
dependency  of  Badgheis.  Although  this  tract,  from  Eusdn  as  far  north 
as  the  Turkoman  desert,  is  at  present  entirely  uninhabited,  owing  to  the 
continuous  raids  of  the  Tekkes,  the  Saryks,  and  the  Salyrs  for  the  last 
twenty  years,  yet  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  whole  of  Badgheis  is 
distinctly  Afghan  territory.  The  Persian  frontier  is  demarcated  by  the 
line  of  the  Hari-rdd.  The  Turkomans  have  no  pretension  to  any  land 
beyond  the  confines  of  the  desert.  It  follows,  therefore,  that  M.  Lessar's 
route  from  Sarakhs  to  Kusin,  and  so  on-  to  Ghuridn,  was  exclusively  on 
Afghan  soil,  and  that  if  a  railway  were  to  be  constructed  along  the 
same  line,  it  would  thus,  unless  there  were  some  specific  convention  to 
the  contrary,  be  subject  throughout  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Government 
of  Herat. 

When  M.  Lessar  arrived  at  Kus4n  the  main  object,  no  doubt,  of  his 
journey  was  accomplished ;  but  he  seems  to  have  had  supplementary 
instructions  to  examine  the  western  or  Persian  bank  of  the  Hari-rdd,  as 
well  as  the  eastern  or  Afghan  bank  of  the  river,  and  he  proceeded 
accordingly  to  Mash-had  (Meshed),  vi&  Khaf  and  Turbat-i-Haidari  for 
that  purpose.  This  line  of  country,  together  with  his  return  route  from 
Mash-had  as  far  as  Turbat-i-Sheikh  J4m  has  been  so  frequently  travelled 
over  and  described  by  previous  explorers,  that  M.  Lessar's  report 
convoys  no  novel  information  of  interest ;  but  between  Turbat-i-Sheikh 
J&m  and  the  Hari-rdd  he  is  again  on  new  ground.  Ho  examined  the 
general  course  of  the  river  from  Kafir  Kaleh  and  Pesh-Eobdt  to  the 
i^uth,  as  far  as  Ztirabdd  and  Pul-i-Ehatdn,  where  the  Meshed  river 
falls  in,  to  the  north,  finding  his  way  through  the  hills  by  mere  foot- 
tracks  and  mountain  paths,  and  the  result  of  his  reconnaissance  being 
that  there  is  no  possibility  of  constructing  a  direct  road  for  wheeled 
carriages,  either  along,  or  anywhere  near,  the  river  between  Eusdn  and 
Ful-i-Ehatdn ;  either  a  detour  must  be  made  to  the  east  into  Badgheis 
to  avoid  the  river  gorges,  or  a  still  greater  detour  must  be  made  to  the 
west  by  Eehriz,  Sheikh  J&m,  Lenkar,  and  Ziirab^d.  M.  Leraar  recurs, 
therefore,  to  his  trace  from  Sarakhs  by  the  Barkhut  Pass  to  Kus4n,  as 
the  natural  and  only  possible  line  for  a  railway  leading  along  the  Atak 
from  the  present  Bussian  frontier  at  Baba-Durmaz,  by  Sarakhs,  to 
Herat ;  and  on  the  general  question,  accordingly,  of  this  line,  I  will 
now  venture,  in  conclusion,  to  make  a  few  remarks,  taking  advantage  of 
the  late  ruling  of  our  Chairman  who  said  that  provided  party  politics 
were  eschewed,  he  saw  no  objection  to  observations  or  discussions  of  a 
more  general  character. 

No  one  will  question,  then,  but  that  the  extension  of  the  Bussian 
arms  to  the  east  of  the  Caspian  during  the  last  twenty  years  has  been 

No.  L— Jah.  1883.]  o 


18     M,  p.  M.  LESSAR'S  SEC05JD  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY-- 

of  immense  'benefit  to  tlie  oountry ;  the  substitntion,  indeed,  of  Bussian 
nile  for  that  of  the  Kirghiz,  the  Uzbegs,  and  the  Turkomans  thronghont 
a  large  portion  of  Central  Asia  has  been*  an  unmixed  blessing  to 
humanity.  The  execrable  slave  trade,  with  all  its  concomitant  honrors, 
has  been  abolished ;  brigandage  has  been  suppressed,  and  Mahommedan 
fanaticism  and  cruelty  have  been  generally  mitigated  and  controlled. 
Commerce  at  the  same  time  has  been  rendered  more  secure ;  local  arts 
and  manufactures  have  been  encouraged,  and  the  wants  of  the  inhabi- 
tants have  been  eveiywhere  more  seriously  regarded  than  is  usual 
under  Asiatic  rulers.  But  although  this  picture  is  cheerful  and  re- 
assuring, it  does  not  by  any  means  satisfy  me  that  it  is  desirable  to 
extend  the  sphere  of  Russia's  beneficent  action  towards  India,  or  that  it 
is  our  duty,  with  a  view  to  such  a  consummation,  to  assist  and  encourage 
M.  Lessar's  projected  railway  to  Herat.  Of  course  we  are  here  merely 
discussing  the  question  of  principle.  Practically  it  would  seem  to  be 
premature  to  enter  upon  the  discussion  at  all,  for  we  are  not  within 
what  is  called  measurable  distance  of  the  actual  railway. 

The  mere  finding  the  money  for  such  an  undertaking  would  be  a 
difficulty  of  the  first  magnitude.  Then,  again,  complications  would 
certainly  arise  with  the  Persian  and  Afghan  Governments  if  it  were 
seriously  proposed  to  run  a  foreign  railway  through  their  respective 
territories ;  and  finally,  the  formtd  opposition  of  Great  Britain  would 
have  to  be  encountered ;  for  whichever  party  might  be  in  power  at  the 
time,  I  cannot  believe  that  in  the  present  state  of  our  relations  in  the 
East,  the  nation  could  ever  be  brought  to  look  with  indifference,  still 
less  with  complacency,  on  a  measure  which,  if  successful,  would  destroy 
our  prestige  throughout  Central  Asia,  and  would  further  impair  that 
feeling  of  rest  and  security  within  our  own  frontiers  which  is  essential  to 
the  well-being  of  India,  dependent  as  such  well-being  notoriously  is  on 
the  peaceable  development  of  the  industrial  and  productive  resources  of 
the  country. 

It  is  quite  possible,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Suez  Canal,  that^if  India 
and  Europe  were  connected  by  a  continuous  railway,  even  though  that 
railway  led  through  Bussian  territory.  Great  Britain,  as  the  largest 
producing  power  in  the  world,  would  sooner  or  later  obtain  a  lion's 
share  of  the  traffic;  but  this  result  would  not  touch  the  question 
whether  a  mere  increased  facility  of  transporting  merchandise  and 
passengers  had  not  been  purchased  at  too  heavy  a  political  risk.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  under  such  circumstances  we  should  lose  our 
boasted  advantage  of  having  no  frontiers,  and  should  be  obliged  to  hold 
India  in  a  constant  state  of  preparedness  for  war.  In  fact  the  conditions 
of  our  tenure  of  the  country  would  be  entirely  altered,  not  necessarily 
to  our  ultimate  disadvantage,  but  still  subject  for  the  time  being  to 
uncertainties  and  liabilities  with  which  no  Government  would  willingly 
be  hampered. 


ASKABAD  TO  GHDRIAN,  NEAR  HERAT.— DISCUSSION.  19 

While  therefore  I  humbly  venture  to  congratulate  Bnssia  on  the 
distinguished  part  which  she  has  already  played,  and  is  probably 
destined  to  play  in  the  future,  in  the  civilisation  of  Central  Asia,  I 
cannot  avoid  recalling  to  mind  with  much  satisfaotion  the  political 
principle  which  she  has  so  often  avowed,  and  still  I  believe  avows,  that 
Afghanistan  (including  of  course,  the  district  of  Badgheis),  is  beyond 
the  scope  of  her  influence  and  action ;  and  finally,  in  thanking  M.  Lessar 
for  his  valuable  report,  and  in  expressing  my  admiration  for  the  skill 
and  daring  with  which  he  has  executed  the  duties  confided  to  him,  I 
heg  to  be  also  permitted  to  say  that  I  trust  his  project  of  a  railway 
fitom  Askabad  vi&  Sarakhs  to  Herat,  may  not  be  realised,  or  at  any  rate 
not  until  we  have  already  constructed  a  railway  to  the  same  point  from 
Sibi,  ▼!&  Quetta  and  Candahar. 

On  the  termination  of  the  paper  and  Sir  H.  Bawlinson's  remarks. 
The  Pbksident  said  a  letter  had  just  been  received  from  General  Yenukofi^  the 
greatest  living  authority  on  the  Geography  and  Ethnology  of  Central  Asia.  It  was 
the  intention  of  Greneral  Yenukofif  to  have  been  present  at  the  meeting,  and  to  have 
taken  part  in  the  discussion  >  bat,  unfortunately,  he  had  been  prevented  by  illness^ 
His  letter  was  as  follows : — 

**  MsssiEUBS, — Le  sujet  de  voe  discussions  d^aujoord^hui  m'int^resse  beaocoup. 
Mais  je  tous  prie  de  ne  pas  attendre  de  ma  part  d'autrea  informations  ou  renseigne> 
moatB  que  purement  g^ographiques :  les  questions  politiques  sont  hors  de  mes 
pr^oocupations.  Yoici  done  la  copie  de  la  carte,  non-publi^  encore,  de  Toasis  du 
Tejend  et  des  routes  qui  traversent  ce  pays  pour  aboutir  a  Merv.*  Cette  carte  est 
dress^e  par  M.  Aminoff,  un  des  oflBciers  d'4tat-major  Russe  des  plus  comp^tents  dans 
ks  questions  g^ographiques  concemant  TAsie  Centrale.  Si  vons  voulez  la  reproduire 
dans  Tos  exoellents  '  Proceedings,'  je  n'aurai  qu'jL  la  remettre  aux  mains  de  M.  lo 
Secretaire  de  la  Soci^t^ ;  si  non,  je  la  publierai  2i  Paris.  Maintenant  je  dirai  deux 
mots  sor  les  travaux  astronomiques,  aussi  non-publies,  de  M.  Gladycheff,  un  g^od^ien 
distingu^  qui,  ^  oe  qu^il  paratt,  a  visits  Merv  et  la  partie  septentrionale  du  pays 
eatre  le  H^ri-roud  et  le  Mourgh4b.  Nous  lui  devons  les  0(M)rdonn^  astrononiiques 
de  Merv,  de  Ak-robat  et  de  Haouz>i*khan.  11  s'est  aussi  occupe  des  travaux  topo- 
giaphiques;  mais  je  ne  connais  pas  encore  leurs  r^iltats.  Yous  voyez  done. 
Messieurs,  que  les  pionniers  russes  dans  I'Asie  Centrale  ne  manquent  pas  de  suivre 
I'exemple  donn^  par  leurs  collies  britanniques  et  de  marcher  It  leur  rencontre. 
J^esp^  que  cette  rencontre  aura  lieu,  un  beau  jour,  dans  les  ramifications  de 
I'Hindoukouch,  oh  les  anciens  rivaux  se  tendront  amicalement  la  main  au  nom  de  la 
civilisation  et  des  interits  commum.  Je  sais  bien,  Messieurs,  que  les  traditions  ou, 
pour  dire  plus  franchement,  les  pr^jug^s  nationnaux,  peuvent  trouver  mon  opinion 
tiop  optimiste,  irrSalisable,  mSme  peu  d&irable ;  mais  je  suis  sAr  que  le  moment 
n*est  pas  loin  oil  les  agents  politiques  et  commerciaux  de  la  Bussie  et  de  I'Angleterre 
se  rencontreront  sur  les  brads  du  H^ri-roud  et  dans  ja  partie  nord  de  ^Afghanistan. 
Get  OfMnion  est  le  r&ultat  de  mes  recherches  g^ographiques  et  ethnographiques 
pendant  plus  de  vingt-cinq  ans.  Yous  trouverez  les  motifs  de  cette  conviction  sincdre 
dans  Pouvrage  que  j'ai  I'honneur  de  vous  presenter  (*  La  Russie  et  I'Orie^t^ — On 
disait  souvent  que  la  Russie  menace  votre  magnifique  empire  des  Indes :  yc^pdre  que 


*  This  map  is  published  in  the  present  number,  p.  56,  together  with  the  one  illus- 
imting  M.  Leaaar's  routes,  founded  on  a  sketch  also  snppUed  by  General  Yenuk(^->[Ei>.] 

0  2 


20     M.  P.  M.  LESSAR'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY— 

dSsormais  on  ne  le  dira  plus.  La  Russie  ne  veut  et  ne  peut  vous  menacer.  Messieurs, 
et  cela  est  tellement  vrai  qu'en  1872  les  ropr^sentants  russes  &  T^^ran  ne  s'occu- 
paient  point  des  tcrres  qui  8*etendent  an  nord  du  Ehorassan,  et  ne  savaient  pas  bion 
quelle  est  la  riviere  la  plus  septentrionale  do  ces  deux :  I'Attrek  ou  la  Gurgh^ne  ? 
En  1874,  la  chancellerie  diplomatique  de  St.  Tdtersbourg  ignorait  aussi  quel  ^tnit 
I'^tat  politique  du  Ma\'m6n^h :  6tait-il  ind6pendant  ou  vassal  de  I'^mir  de  Kaboul  oa 
de  celui  de  Boukhara?  Les  envahisseurs,  les  conquSrants  n'agissent  jamais  de  la 
sort«. . .  Et  de  nos  jours,  le  ministdre  des  affaires  ^trang^res  de  Bussie, — &  ce  qn*il 
parait, — ^ne  savaient  rien  sur  les  explorations  de  MM.  Lessar,  Gladycbeff,  Alikhanoff, 
Sokoloff,  Vych&lavtzeff,  avant  de  lire  les  articles  des  joumaux  sur  leur  voyages 
int^ressants.  Est-ce  le  proc^^  des  Xapol^ns,  des  C^rs  ou  mdme  des  Moises  ?— 
Soyez  done  silrs :  la  politique  du  gouvernement  russe  (si  je  la  comprends  bien)  ne 
vous  menace  pas  du  tout.  On  a  cherch^,  par  t&tonnements,  la  frontifere  natnrelle  des 
possessions  russes  dans  les  steppes  Asiatiques  et  on  I'a  trouvee  d^jk  dans  la  plupart 
des  cas :  cette  fronti^re  naturelle  passe  h.  plusieurs  centaines  de  milles  au  nord-ouest 
de  I'Inde. — Craignez-vous  la  concurrence  commerciale  des  Busses  aux  marcb^ 
Asiatiques?  Eh  bien,  lisez  le  No.  310  de  la  Gazette  de  Mosoou  que  j'ai  llionneur  de 
mettre  k  votre  disposition :  vous  y  trouverez  les  raisons  suflBsantes  pour  calmer  vos 
appr^ensions. 

"  M.  Vektjkofp." 

Mr.  O'DoNOVAN  said  the  starting-point  of  the  Trans-Caspian  railroad  was  at 
Mikhailovsk,  near  Erasnovodsk.  He  had  spent  many  months  in  that  district,  and 
could  vouch  for  the  excellence  of  the  harbour,  and  also  for  the  very  unproductive 
nature  of  the  soil  around  it.  Nothing  but  art  and  science  had  made  it  what  it  is. 
Not  a  drop  of  drinkable  water  can  be  found  in  the  place,  and  it  was  only  by  trans- 
porting wood  across  the  Caspian  and  distilling  sea-water  that  it  was  possible  to  exist 
there.  Between  Mikhailovsk  and  Bami,  where,  as  far  as  was  at  present  known,  the 
railroad  terminated,  there  were  no  engineering  difficulties  as  regards  levels ;  but 
there  were  difficulties  arising  from  the  shifting  nature  of  the  marl-dust  which,  con- 
tinually driven  by  the  wind,  accumulated  upon  the  rails.  It  had  been  found 
necessary  to  construct  a  wooden  palisading  on  either  side  of  the  line,  just  as  in  the 
Bocky  Mountains  a  snow-guard  had  to  be  put  up  to  prevent  the  trains  being  buried 
in  snow-drift.  From  Bami  there  were  no  difficulties  in  the  way  of  continuing  the 
railroad  eastward.  The  ground  was  as  level  as  the  floor  of  a  house,  and  ample  water 
was  to  be  found  all  along  the  line.  He  often  found  too  much  water,  for  his  horse 
was  frequently  knee-deep  in  the  marshes  and  quagmires  produced  by  the  streams 
flowing  from  the  hills.  The  population  was  a  curious  one.  It  was  principally  Kurd 
and  Turkish.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  Shah  Abbds  the  Great  established, 
along  the  mountains  between  Askabad  and  Lutfabad,  a  Kurdish  colony,  to  act  as  a 
buffer  between  the  Persians  and  the  wild  tribes  of  the  plain.  Their  descendants 
remained  there  still,  and  took  great  credit  to  themselves  for  being  neither  Persian 
nor  Turkish.  A  little  lower  down,  past  Lutfabad,  the  Turkish  tribes  were  found 
who  had  moved  from  the  Oxus  westward,  and  occupied  Constantinople  centuries 
ago.  He  had  no  definite  information  about  the  continuation  of  the  tramway,  but  he 
tliought  the  country  offered  no  difficulties.  Beyond  Dushakh  there  was  a  perfectly 
level  bank  along  both  sides  of  the  river  Tejend.  Though  there  were  mountains 
intervening  between  the  lower  course  of  the  Tejend  and  Herat,  the  river  had 
engineered  its  own  way  through  them.  There  was  a  peculiar  point  in  connection 
wiih  the  Atak  district  beyond  the  mountains.  Though  the  nomad  Turkoman 
population  were  entirely  opposed  in  religion  and  politics  to  the  Shiites  of  Persia, 
still  the  latter  had  been  able  to  keep  them  in  subjection,  because  they  held  the 


ASKABAD  TO  GHURIAN,  NEAH  HERAT.— DISCUSSION.  21 

aonroes  of  the  streams  in  the  mountains,  and  could  dam  or  turn  these  iu  different 
directions  whenever  they  pleased.  He  need  not,  however,  say  that  when  the 
Bnanans  hold  the  Atak  the  Persians  would  scarcely  quarrel  with  them  ahout 
the  water>8apply.  Formerly  the  northern  posts  of  Russia  in  Central  Asia,  near 
Oranbarg  and  the  Jazartes,  were  separated  from  the  countries  further  south  by  the 
gmt  Kara-Eum  desert— a  desert  not  like  those  of  Arabia,  composed  of  siliceous 
«md,  bat  having  a  covering  of  marl-dust,  and  devoid  of  water.  It  was  formerly, 
as  ffir  Henry  Rawlinson  had  described,  a  very  fertile  region,  and  there  was  doubt- 
leas  a  great  central  lake  there.  The  line  of  communication  from  Mikhailovsk  to 
Lut&bad  turned  that  desert,  and  placed  Russia  in  communication  with  Sarakhs,  and 
would  no  doubt,  later  on,  place  her  in  communication  tnth  Herat.  A  junction  at 
Mery,  where  a  railway  line  from  Bokhara  would  join  that  from  Krasnovodsk,  would 
enable  the  military  resources  of  European  and  Asiatic  Russia  to  unite,  and  be 
directed  along  the  Sarakhs  railway  against  the  entrance  of  the  Kandahar  valley. 

Sir  Babtlb  Fbxbb  said  that  Sir  Heniy  Rawlinson  had  for  the  last  twenty  years 
been  telling  his  countrymen  what  now,  for  the  first  time,  had  been  shown  by  actual 
exploration  in  the  paper  before  the  Society.  Sir  Henry  had  foreseen  it,  partly  from 
his  own  observation  and  partly  from  his  habit  of  always  listening  to  those  who 
had  •penooal  experience  in  that  region.  There  was  not  a  single  fact  which  had  been 
lud  before  them  that  evening  that  could  not  be  found  in  Sir  Henry's  earliest  remarks 
on  the  subject.  It  was  a  very  striking  thing  that  those  points  which,  twenty  years 
ago^  were  matters  of  doubtful  inquiry  for  geographers,  and  could  not  be  settled  by  the 
personal  evidence  of  any  European,  had  now  become  simply  matters  of  topography 
in  a  country  of  which  the  geographical  features  were  well  ascertained.  Railway 
lurvoya  had  now  taken  the  place  of  geographical  inferences.  Whether  Russians  or 
Englishmen  were  talking  on  the  subject,  they  were  always  looking  forward  to  a  time 
when  the  advance  guards  of  the  railway  surveyors  of  the  two  nations  would  meet 
somewhere  about  that  great  chain  of  mountains  which,  as  Sir  Henry  had  told  them, 
had  now  dwindled  down  to  elevations  of  900  feet.  The  Russians  were  doing  their 
best  to. posh  forward  their  work  of  survey  in  the  direction  of  Herat ;  but  what  was 
England  doing?  Since  Sir  Richard  Temple  pressed  forward  his  railway  in  the 
netghbourhood  of  the  Bolan  Pass,  what  had  England  accomplished  in  the  same 
direction  ?  It  seemed  to  him  that  whether  Englishmen  were  able,  as  some  optimists 
were,  to  throw  to  the  winds  any  fear  of  aggressive  action  on  the  part  of  Russia,  or 
wheUier  they  merely  looked  to  the  development  of  commerce,  it  behoved  them  to 
posh  forward  their  railway  surveys  towards  the  same  points  as  the  Russians,  and 
probably  the  sooner  the  English  railway  engineers  met  the  Russians,  the  further  off 
would  be  the  day  when  the  military  engineers  would  come  into  contact  with  one 
another. 

Sir  Hekbt  Kobhan,  after  expressing  his  regret  that  Colonel  Stewart  and  Sir 
Charles  Maogregor  were  not  present,  said  he  did  not  entertain  the  dread  which 
Sir  Henry  Rawlinson  and  Sir  Bartle  Frere  entertained  with  regard  to  the  advance  of' 
Bosria.  So  far  from  desiring  to  push  forward  and  meet  the  Russians  in  some 
unknown  place,  he,  as  a  soldier,  preferred  to  keep  a  secure  base.  He  was  quite  sure 
that  the  meeting  would  not  come  in  his  time.  He  would  rather  that  it  should  occur 
at  a  point  where  England  would  be  able  to  bring  all  the  immense  resources  of  India 
into  play,  instead  of  pushing  forward  to  Saraklis  or  Herat,  600  miles  beyond  the 
frontier,  by  making  railways  that  would  cost  an  enormous  sum  of  money,  and  never 
produce  a  penny  of  profit.  He  could  not  approve  of  that  being  done  to  meet  some 
imaginary  danger  which  our  successors  in  the  government  of  India  would  be  perfectly 
able  to  encounter  when  the  time  came. 

Sir  BiCHABD  Temfle  said  that  he  felt  considerable  embarrassment  in  addressing. 


22  SECOND  JOURNEY  IN  THE  TURKOMAN  COUNTRY.— DISCUSSION. 

tlie  meeting  from  a  consciousness  that  all  this  talk  about  geography  and  topc^^raphy 
would  be  the  merest  sham  if  it  were  not  for  the  deep  political  interests  which 
underlay  the  discussion.  He  was  precluded  from  saying  what  was  at  the  bottom  of 
his  mind,  in  regard  to  these  matters,  because  he  could  not  do  so  without  breaking 
the  fundamental  rules  of  the  Society,  which  did  not  allow  open  discussion  of 
political  topics.  Though  they  were  bound  to  give  every  credit  to  Russia  for  all  the 
great  work  she  was  doing  they  must  remember  that  nations  as  well  as  individuala 
acted  from  mixed  motives.  He  would  not  have  thought  it  worth  while  to  mentioa 
this  were  it  not  that  so  many  of  his  countrymen,  while  bending  their  gaze  upon 
the  blessings  which  Bussia  was  directly  or  indirectly  conferring  upon  humanity, 
seemed  to  blind  themselves  to  the  political  dangers  which  might  menace  their  own 
empire.  He  had  confidence  enough  in  British  administration  and  British  influence 
to  believe  that  whatever  seriously  lowered  British  prestige,  or  diminished  British 
power  in  Asia,  could  not  be  for  the  good  of  humanity.  He  fully  admitted  that  the 
evils  of  Turkoman  slavery  upon  the  Persian  frontier  were  quite  as  great  as  those 
which  Sir  Henry  Bawlinson  had  described.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  horrors  which 
the  Turkomans  had  been  practising,  and  if  Wilberforce  or  Glarkson  had  been  living 
at  the  present  time  no  more  touching  theme  could  ever  have  inspired  their  eloquence 
than  the  slavery  upon  the  Persian  frontier.  He  was  grieved  that  England  had  not 
borne  its  share  in  upholding  the  flag  of  freedom  in  that  quarter,  but  sooner  than  that 
the  work  should  not  be  done  at  all,  for  the  sake  of  God  and  humanity,  they  must 
rejoice  that  it  was  done  by  Bussia.  But  having  accomplished  that  work,  Buraia, 
under  conventions  or  state  correspondences  having  the  force  of  international 
agreements,  was  bound  to  stop  at  the  frontier  of  Afghanistan.  Inside  the  Afghan 
frontier  there  were  none  of  those  evils  which  existed  on  the  border-land  of  the  Per- 
sians and  the  Turkomans.  Afghans  were  never  carried  into  slavery,  they  were 
always  able  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and  therefore  Bussia  had  no  right  to  cross 
the  border.  He  entirely  concurred  with  what  had  just  fallen  from  Sir  Henry  Baw- 
linson. There  were  great  difficulties  in  carrying  railways  into  Afghanistan.  In  the 
first  place  they  were  prevented  from  doing  so  by  international  arrangements. 
Secondly,  there  were  very  great  physical  difficulties;  for  although  the  line  of  the 
Paropamisus  at  the  Bussian  end  of  the  line  was  very  low,  the  line  of  the  flankiog 
mountains  of  Beluchistan  at  the  English  end  was  extremely  difficult,  and  although 
information  had  recently  been  obtained  as  to  the  practicability  of  a  railway  through 
that  part  of  the  country,  still  that  information  showed  that  the  cost  of  such  an 
undertaking  would  be  large.  He  quite  agreed  with  Sir  Henry  Norman  that  our 
successors  would  be  able  to  meet  the  difficulty,  but  at  the  same  time,  although  we 
had  a  right  to  make  a  railway  as  far  as  Pishin  on  the  frontier  of  Southern  Afghan- 
istan, it  would  probably  be  more  expensive  than  those  railways  which  had  been 
referred  to  in  the  paper. 

The  President  said  that  M.  Lessar's  paper  had  been  read  not  on  account  of  its 
political  bearing,  but  for  the  interesting  geographical  facts  it  contained  relating  to 
tlie  region  between  the  Kushk  and  the  Hari-nid.  As  President  of  the  Society  he 
felt  himself  very  much  of  a  cosmopolitan.  Sir  Henry  Bawlinson  had  made  many 
wise  and  generous  observations  on  the  subject,  but  for  the  first  time  in  history  Sir 
Henry  had  described  the  Turkoman  as  a  lamb,  altogether  ignorant  of  the  fate  that 
awaited  it  from  the  Bussian  wolf: 

**  Pleased  to  the  last  he  crops  the  flowery  food, 
And  licks  the  hand  just  raised  to  shed  his  blood." 

It  had  been  suggested  that  by  raising  opposition  on  the  part  of  Persia  and  Afghanistan 
it  might  be  possible  to  prevent  a  railway  going  to  Herat.    It  was  not  for  him  to 


NOTES  or  A  JOL'RNET  TO  THE  IMP£KIAL  HAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEEING.       23 

say  whether  a  railway  through  so  wild  and  barbarous  a  country,  among  suoh 
people,  oaght  in  the  interests  of  humanity  to  be  stopped.  There  were  occasions 
when  we  should  rise  above  our  position  as  mere  Englishmen,  and  look  at  the  general 
interests  of  mankind,  and  ask  whether  the  barbarous  state  of  those  countries, 
inhabited  by  one  of  the  most  truculent  races  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  ought  to  be 
allowed  to  continue,  iu  order  to  avert  some  possible  danger  from  the  British  Empire. 
As  Presddoit  of  the  Society,  as  an  Englishman^  and  as  a  man,  he  protested  loudly 
against  a  doctrine  which  he  thought  was  opposed  to  the  real  principles  of  humanity. 
It  was  the  duty  of  the  President  of  the  Society  to  prevent  the  discussions  taking  too 
political  a  form,  at  the  same  time  it  was  not  desirable  that  he  should  exclude  all 
leference  to  those  political  considerations  which  gave  to  geography  one  of  its  principal 
interests,  any  more  than  he  should  exclude  reference  to  the  commercial  bearings  of 
recent  discoveries,  or  to  ethnological  facts.  But  all  observations  on  such  points  should 
he  kept  in  strict  subordination  to  the  primary  interest  of  geographical  science. 


NaUa  of  a  Journey  to  the  Imperial  Mausolea,  east  of  Peking, 

By  Fbedebick  S.  A.  Bourne,  of  H.M.  Consular  Service  in  China. 

The  late  Captain  Gill,  in  the  second  chapter  of  *  The  Biver  of  Golden 
Sand,*  says :  **  Away  to  the  back  amongst  these  mountains  "  (behind  a 
place  called  Ma-lan  Yii  to  the  east  of  Peking)  "  are  the  Imperial  Tombs 
which,  according  to  our  informant  here,  cover  a  tract  of  country  ex- 
tending over  seventeen  mountains.  The  sacred  ground  is  not  enclosed 
by  a  wall,  but  being  covered  with  forests  abounding  with  game  and 
wild  beasts,  and  being  entirely  devoid  of  roads,  the  sanctity  of  the  place 
is  never  invaded.  Very  little  information  could  be  obtained  about  the 
conntry  or  the  position  of  the  Tombs." 

In  January  1880  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  get  a  very  good  view  of 
these  Mausolea.  The  weather  was  desperately  cold  and  a  heavy  fall  of 
snow  dulled  both  the  sight  and  the  martial  ardour  of  the  guards  who 
watch  over  the  approaches  to  the  enclosure,  making  access  easier  than 
usuaL  But  before  describing  what  I  saw  within  the  walls  I  will  add 
something  to  Captain  Gill's  remarks  on  the  route  thither  from  Peking. 

Travelling  in  a  due  easterly  direction  from  Peking,  after  passing 
the  district  city  of  San-ho,  we  have  a  spur  of  the  Tung-shan  or  Eastern 
Hills  on  the  left,  parallel  with  our  road  j  the  hills  soon  begin  to  close  in 
on  the  right,  and  at  Chi  Chou  (see  '  Eiver  of  Golden  Sand '  quoted 
above)  we  enter  a  valley  running  N.N.E.,  at  the  top  of  which  the  Tombs 
are  situated. 

A  little  to  the  south  of  Chi  Chou  there  is  a  river,  known  as  the  Chi- 
yiin  Ho  (or  Chi  Chou  Grain  Transport  Eiver),  which,  rising  to  the  east 
of  Tsun-hua  Chou,  flows  in  a  due  westerly  direction  as  far  as  Chi  Chou, 
where,  a  mile  to  the  south  of  that  city,  it  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the 
south,  and  after  uniting  with  the  San-ho  river,  flows  into  the  Gulf  of 
Pechili  under  the  name  of  the  Pei-t'ang  river.    It  is  now  a  stream  of 


21     NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  UiPERUL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING. 

little  importance,  but,  like  bo  many  other  water-courses  on  the  Peking 
plain,  it  has  had  better  days.  In  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  K'ang-hn 
(1662-1723)  grain  tribute  from  the  southern  provinces  was  shipped 
through  the  Grand  Canal,  up  this  river,  and  landed  at  Chi  Chou,  where 
the  grain  was  stored  in  large  granaries,  and  sent  by  cart  to  Peking. 
K'ang-hsi  discontinued  this  route,  and  all  tribute  grain  for  the  capital 
has  since  come  by  way  of  T'ung  Chou. 

After  passing  Hao-mSn  and  ManshSn-Ch'iao,  the  road  makes  a  bend 
to  the  north,  and  we  reach  Shih-m^.  Three  miles  more  bring  us  to 
Hsin-ch'€ng,  and  a  further  ride  of  eight  li  to  Ma-lan  Yii,  mentioned 
above  by  Captain  Gill,  the  largest  town  in  the  neighbourhood  of  th& 
Tombs,  and  the  place  in  which  I  proposed  to  reside  during  my  stay. 

On  arriving  here  I  sent  for  our  landlord  and  asked  him  to  find  a 
guide  to  take  me  over  the  Tombs.  He  said  that  it  was  impossible.  I 
should  certainly  not  be  allowed  admittance.  Foreigners  had  visited  the 
place  once  or  twice  previously,  but  they  had  never  ventured  to  enter 
the  Mausolea  enclosure.  I  should  be  turned  back  by  the  guards  and  my 
guide  lose  his  head,  &c.,  &g.  I  began  to  fear  that  my  project  would  fall 
through,  when  one  of  our  servants  found  a  fellow  townsman  whose 
family  had  lately  removed  from  Tientsin,  and  who  undertook  to  act  aer 
guide  so  long  as  I  kept  outside  the  Mausolea  enclosure. 

During  tiie  following  night  it  snowed  heavily  (for  the  north  of 
China),  and  in  the  morning  there  was  a  foot  of  snow  on  the  ground.  I 
told  the  guide  to  take  me  to  a  hill  which  stands  on  the  east  outside  the 
enclosure,  and  from  which  I  hoped  to  get  a  distant  view  of  the  tomb  of 
the  late  Emperor  T'ung-chih.  On  the  way  to  this  hill  I  noticed  a  break 
of  some  feet  in  the  outer  or  feng-shui  wall,  described  further  on,  where 
the  foundation  had  sunk  and  the  wall  &llen  in.  On  the  inside  of  this 
break  there  was  a  tempting  hill  from  the  top  of  which  it  seemed  we 
ought  to  get  a  near  view  of  the  above  mentioned  tomb.  So,  as  I  had 
received  no  ofiBcial  request  to  keep  outside  the  enclosure,  and  as  the 
natives  were  allowed  to  cross  it  on  their  way  to  a  certain  Lama  temple, 
I  ventured  to  disregard  the  admonition  of  my  guide  and  to  enter  vdthin 
the  sacred  precincts. 

The  Great  Wall  forms  the  northern  boundary.  At  Ma-lan  Chdn, 
a  military  station  at  the  north-east  comer  of  the  enclosure,  three 
miles  north  of  Ma-lan  Yii,  above  mentioned,  the  Great  Wall  is  met 
at  right  angles  by  a  plain  brick  wall  about  nine  feet  high,  called 
the  fSng-ahui  *  wall,  which  encloses  the  ground  set  apart  as  specially 
sacred  to  the  Imperial  Dead.  From  Ma-lan  Chfin  this  wall  runs  nearly 
due  south  as  far  as  Ma-lan  Yii,  after  passing  which  place  it  curves 
slightly  towards  the  west,  and  runs  in  a  S.S.W.  direction  until  it  is 
opposite  the  small  town  of  Hsin-oh'eng,  a  distance  of  five  miles,  where 

*  Feng'shui  means  literally  "  wind  and  water,"  and  tbenoe  tlie  system  of  belief  in  tha 
potent  life  of  whnt  we  call  inanimate  nature,  and  in  its  influence  on  the  fate  of  man. 


NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING.     25 

it  turns  to  the  west.  The  eastern  side  of  the  enclosnre  is  thns  about 
fire  miles  long.  The  snow  barred  access  to  the  western  side,  bnt  from 
the  distances  traversed  within  the  wall  I  should  think  the  width  of  the 
space  enclosed,  from  east  to  west,  must  be  also  about  five  miles.  The 
area  of  the  inner  enclosure  would  be,  on  this  supposition,  about  25  square 
miles  or  16,000  acres.  But  besides  this,  a  wide  tract  outside  the  boundary 
wall,  with  the  ranges  of  hills  on  the  south  and  south-west,  belong  to  the 
Xausolea,  and  are  forbidden  ground.  The  fSng-$hui  wall  only  supplies  a 
boondaiy  when  there  is  no  natural  one.  It  shuts  off  the  valleys,  but 
unlike  the  Great  Wall,  which  seems  to  select  the  highest  peaks  and  the 
most  precipitous  crags  and  boldly  scale  them,  it  does  not  asoend  the 
hills. 

Let  the  reader  picture  to  himself  a  tract  of  country  of  this  extent 
uninhabited  and  uncultivated.  Within  a  wide  circuit  man  is  forbidden 
to  build  his  dwelling  or  to  bury  his  dead.  Here  it  is  that  the  rulers  of 
China  lie  entombed.  An  EngUshman  is  struck  by  the  contrast  between 
this  abode  of  the  Hoyal  Dead  and  the  last  resting-place  of  the  Sovereigns 
of  his  own  country.  The  same  honour  and  respect  are  intended  but  how 
different  is  their  expression !  Our  English  Sovereigns  lie  in  a  church, 
sacred  to  the  God  they  worshipped  in  life,  closely  surrounded  by  the 
remains  of  the  best  and  greatest  of  their  subjects:  these  Eastern 
Honarchs  sleep  here  alone,  far  removed  from  the  abodes  of  men,  with 
the  heavens,  the  hills,  and  the  streams,  to  them  the  embodiment  of  God, 
above  and  around  them — a  not  unfitting  contrast  even  in  the  tomb 
between  the  Head  of  a  free  people  and  an  Autocrat. 

The  place  at  which  I  first  entered  the  feng-slmi  wall  was  at  a  breach 
between  Ma-lan  Tu  and  Hsin-ch'eng.  I  advanced  cautiously,  but  at 
first  the  guide  declined  to  follow.  When,  however,  he  saw  that  I  went 
on  unmolested,  although  there  was  a  guard  station  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  he  plucked  up  his  courage  and  came,  keeping  always  at  a  good 
distance.  His  company  was  indispensable,  for  the  whole  enclosure  is  so 
thickly  wooded  that  no  tomb  can  be  seen  from  any  other;  and  as 
there  is  no  map  of  the  plaoe,  I  was  completely  dependent  on  him  for 
guidance. 

From  the  top  of  the  hill,  I  saw  just  below  me  on  the  other  side 
the  Mausoleum  of  the  late  Emperor.  Before,  however,  describing 
it  particularly  I  will  give  a  sketch  of  the  features  common  to  all  the 
tombs. 

The  following  Emperors  are  buried  at  this  place : — 

1.  Shun-chih  (1644-1662). 

2.  K'ang-hsi  (1662-1723). 

3.  K'ien-lung  (1736-1796). 

4.  Hsien-feng  (1851-1862). 
6.  T'ung-chih  (1862-1876). 


26     NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING. 

Their  tombs  are  in  all  essential  features  precisely  alike.  Some  appear 
to  be  built  on  a  larger  scale  than  others,  but  the  disposition  of  the 
buildings  is  always  the  same.  In  the  rear  of  each  tomb  is  a  hill  (1 — 
in  the  adjoining  woodcut)  on  the  southern  slope  of  which  the  chamber 
that  contains  the  coffin  is  built;  and  in  front  of  all  the  buildings  is  a 
stream  of  water  (2),  running  as  nearly  as  possible  east  and  west ;  these 
are  features  common  to  the  site  of  every  mausoleum,  great  or  small,  within 
the  enclosure.  Following  the  ShSn-tao,  Spirit's  Bead  (3),  as  it  is  called, 
which  approaches  the  tomb  from  the  south,  first  come  two  lofty  stone 
pillars  (4),  one  on  each  side  of  the  road ;  then  figures  of  men  and  animals 
in  pairs  fstcing  one  another  on  opposite  sides  (5) ;  next,  an  ornamental 

archway  (6)  and  curving  marble 
bridge  (7)  of  several  arches,  with 
finely  carved  balustrade,  crossing 
the  stream.  The  reader  will 
better  understand  the  disposition 
of  the  buildings  if  he  glance  at 
the  adjoining  rough  plan.  After 
crossing  the  bridge,  walking  d.ue 
north,  we  pass  guard-houses  (8) 
on  either  side,  and  on  the  right, 
sometimes  to  the  south  of  the 
guard-houses  and  sometimes  on 
their  east,  a  sacrificial  hall  (9)  in 
which  the  animals  immolated  to 
the  Dead  are  slain.  Further  on 
we  come  to  a  small  square  build- 
ing (10),  open  at  the  sides,  in 
the  centre  of  which  stands,  sup- 
ported upon  the  back  of  a  huge 
marble  tortoise,  the  memorial 
tablet,  on  which  is  written  an 
account  of  the  "sacred  deeds  and  virtues"  of  the  Departed.  On 
either  side  are  halls  (11),  devoted  to  the  use  of  officials  who  visit 
the  tomb,  that  on  the  east  or  right  being  for  civil  and  that  on  the 
west  for  military  officers.  After  passing  another  (12),  sometimes 
several,  ornamental  stone  archways  or  doors,  we  reach  the  chapel  (13), 
in  which  the  worship  of  the  Dead  is  carried  on.  Behind  the  chapel 
stands  the  most  conspicuous  building  of  *all,  called  tiie  Bright  Pavilion 
(14),  beneath  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  tomb  itself.  Here  is  placed  a 
memorial  tablet,  called  the  five-coloured  tablet,  on  which  the  Emperor's 
name  is  engraved  in  Manchu  and  Chinese.  Immediately  behind  this 
building  and  connected  with  it  by  a  descending  passage  (15)  is  the  "  Earth 
Palace  "  (16)  or  tumulus,  within  which  the  coffin  lies.  At  the  interment 
of  an  Emperor,  the  coffin  is  placed  upon  a  low  hearse  with  wheels,  and 


NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING.      27 

rolled  through  this  passage  into  the  tumulus.  It  is  there  placed  upon  a 
stone  ledge,  or  bed  as  it  is  called  in  Chinese,  the  hearse  is  removed,  and 
tlie  door  shut.  Behind  the  door,  inside,  there  is  a  round  hole,  cut  in  the 
stone  of  the  floor ;  and  when  the  door  is  shut  a  large  ball  of  stone  follows 
it,  and,  falling  into  the  hole,  by  its  projecting  top  prevents  the  door  from 
ever  opening  again.  The  door  itself  is  of  solid  stone,  and  when  once 
shut,  it  may  be  smashed  to  pieces  by  an  exercise  of  sufficient  force,  bat 
it  cannot  be  opened.  When  this  door  has  been  shut  the  deoeased 
Emperor  is  said  **  to  be  in  peace  for  evermore." 

The/eng-$hui  wall  is  pierced  at  several  points  on  the  east  and  south 
by  small  gates,  through  which  pass  the  materials  used  in  building  and 
repairs,  and  all  the  traffic  that  is  allowed.  The  main  entrance  is  on  the 
southern  side.  It  is  called  the  Great  Bed  0ate,  and  is  never  opened 
except  for  the  passage  of  an  Emperor. 

From  this  gate,  which  is  nearly  in  the  ceDtre  of  the  southern  wall,  a 
road  leads  due  north  straight  up  to  the  mausoleum  of  Shun-chih.  This 
Emperor  was  the  first  of  the  Manchu  princes  who  actually  sat  upon  the 
Imperial  throne  of  China,  and  may  be  considered  the  founder  of  the 
present  dynasty.  The  earlier  Manchu  princes  are  buried  at  Moukden : 
Shnn-chih  is  the  first  Manchu  Emperor  buried  in  Chinese  soil,  and  his, 
tomb  therefore  occupies  the  place  of  honour.  This  road,  leading  from 
the  Great  Gate  in  the  southern  wall  to  the  tomb  of  Shun-chih,  a  distance 
of  over  three  miles,  is  the  main  artery  of  the  mausolea  enclosure,  and 
from  it  branch  off  the  roads  leading  to  the  tombs  of  the  later  emperors, 
who,  as  our  guide  remarked,  were  but  branches  of  the  Imperial  genea- 
logical tree,  and  therefore  the  relation  of  th^ir  roads  to  that  of  Shun- 
chih,  the  main  stem.  It  is  a  magnificent  avenue,  bordered  on  each  side 
by  groves  of  fir-trees  planted  at  regular  intervals.  Our  guide  asked  me 
triumphantly  whether  the  requirements  of  feng-shui  were  not  perfectly 
fulfilled  by  this  road.  I  was  certainly  impressed  by  its  position  and 
surroundings.  To  the  north,  straight  in  front,  stood  the  snow-covered 
hills,  under  which  the  tomb  of  the  founder  of  the  dynasty  is  built ;  and 
to  the  south,  in  the  line  of  the  road,  so  thati  it  exactly  filled  up  the  break 
in  the  trees,  stood  another  hill,  four  or  five  miles  distant,  but  from  the 
singularity  of  its  position  with  regard  to  the  road  seeming  to  be  as 
much  a  part  of  the  tomb  as  the  monstrous  stone  figures  of  men  and 
animals  that  guard  the  road  on  either  side,  some  standing,  others 
crouching.  Behind  the  stone  figures  the  groves  of  fir-trees  were  alive 
with  birds  of  many  species,  to  whom  this  forbidden  ground  gives  shelter. 

The  stone  figures  *  which  guard  the  road  deserve  a  more  particular 
noti(».    There  are  18  p^rs,  or  36  in  all,  each  pair  placed  facing  one 

♦  The  writer  is  indebted  for  much  of  what  follows  on  the  subject  of  these  atone 
figures  to  an  interesting  paper  printed  in  the  Journal  of  tbe  Shanghai  Branch  of  the 
Boyal  Asiatic  Society  for  1878,  by  the  late  W.  F.  Mayers,  called  "  On  the  Stone 
Figures  at  Chinese  Tombs  and  the  offering  of  Living  Sacrifices." 


28     NOT£S  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING. 

another,  one  on  either  side  of  the  road.  Walking  towards  the  tomb 
from  the  south  we  see  two  lofty  stone  pillars,  one  on  either  side  of  the 
road,  about  two  feet  from  the  top  of  which  a  cross-piece  of  stone  points 
inwards  towards  the  road.  These  pillars  are  called  wang  chu,  or  "  sign- 
posts," and  their  object  is  to  direct  the  spirit*  of  the  deceased  when 
wandering  from  its  earthly  resting-place  back  to  the  tomb.  Between 
these  pillars  and  the  ornamental  archway  the  figures  are  placed  at  equal 
distances.  Next  to  the  pillars  come  the  figures  of  beasts.  They  are 
monolithic,  and  appeared  to  be  of  about  the  same  size  as  those  at  the 
Ming  tombs,  one  of  the  figures  at  which — the  elephant — ^was  measured 
by  Dr.  Edkins,  who  gives  the  dimensions  as  13  feet  high,  7  feet  wide, 
and  14  feet  long.  There  are  two  pairs  of  each  of  the  following  animals, 
one  pair  couchant,  and  one  pair  standing : — Suan-ni  *  (lion),  camel,  horse, 
elephant,  Skih  *  (lion),  and  CICi-lin  (unicorn).  After  the  animals  come 
three  pairs  of  civil  and  three  pairs  of  military  ofScials ;  the  former  in 
court  robes,  and  the  latter  in  armour. 

Compared  with  these  figures  those  in  front  of  the  tombs  of  K*ang-hs5 
and  K'ien-lung  are  insignificant,  both  in  size  and  number.  Those  that 
guard  Hsien-feng's  tomb  are  even  smaller,  and  the  approach  to  T'ung- 
chih*s  tomb  is  without  them  altogether. 

With  regard  to  the  object  or  meaning  of  these  figures  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  interesting  article  by  Mr.  Mayers  mentioned  above.  It 
appears  that  long  before  the  Christian  era  the  Chinese  believed  in  the 
existence  of  a  fabulons  monster  called  Wang-hsiang  or  Tun,  addicted  to 
devouring  the  liver  and  brains  of  the  dead.  In  order  to  protect  a  grave 
from  the  ravages  of  this  ghoul  an  exorcist  was  employed  at  the  burial 
of  the  great,  who  was  thought  able  by  certain  charms  to  secure  the 
grave  against  the  assaults  of  the  monster.  Later  it  became  customary 
to  erect  a  stone  effigy  of  such  an  exorcist  outside  the  tomb,  giving  to  the 
image  by  an  easy  step  the  same  power  that  was  supposed  to  belong  to 
the  original. 

The  pomp  and  extravagance  afiected  by  the  princes  of  the  Oh'in 
dynasty  (255-206  b.o.)  led  to  the  immolation  of  men  and  animals  at  the 
tombs  of  the  great ;  and  this  practice  may  have  suggested  the  figures, 
which  should  bear  the  same  relation  to  the  dead  body  as  the  ghosts  of 
the  immolated,  sent  to  serve  in  the  other  world,  did  to  the  departed 
spirit ;  either  or  both  of  the  above  reasons  may  have  given  rise  to  the 
custom.  But  the  obvious  meaning  of  the  figures  to  Chinese  of  the 
present  day  is  a  representation  at  the  tomb  of  the  pomp  and  state  of  the 
palace.  The  Chinese  believe  that  the  spirit  of  the  dead  is  for  a  time 
bound  to  the  tomb  in  which  the  body  lies.  What  could  then  be  more 
natural  than  the  endeavour  to  give  to  the  dead,  at  least  in  appearance, 

*  Both  lion.  Smn-ni  is  the  traditional  lion  with  head  uplifted  as  if  in  the  act 
of  roaring.  ShUi  was  the  name  given  to  the  lion  when  the  Chinese  became  actually 
acquainted  with  it,  and  this  is  the  word  always  used  now  for  the  real  animal. 


NOTES  OF  A  JOURNET  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING.     29 

the  splendonr  due  to  the  living?  In  short,  as  a  Chinese  whom  I 
questioned  on  the  subject  put  it,  the  stone  figures  are  to  a  dead 
Emperor  what  the  pageantry  and  display  of  a  court  are  to  a  living  one. 

The  Ching  Ling  or  Tomb  of  the  Emperor  E'ang-hsi  is  on  the  east  of 
the  main  road,  and  theT  Yii  Ling  or  Tomb  of  the  Emperor  E'ien-lung  on 
the  west,  both  to  the  north  of  tiie  enclosure. 

On  the  east  of  the  main  road,  close  to  the  southern  comer,  is  the 
Sui  Ling  or  mausoleum  in  which  the  Emperor  T'ung-chih,  the  last 
eccapant  of  the  throne,  and  his  Empress  are  buried.  It  differs  in  nothing 
from  the  ordinary  plan  except  that  there  are  no  stone  figures.  The 
young  Emperor  and  Empress  are  buried  together  beneath  the  same 
tumulus.  One  of  the  imperial  ooncubines  is  buried  in  a  separate  tomb, 
roofed  with  green  tiles  in. contrast  to  the  yellow  tiles  of  the  main 
building,  on  the  western  side. 

A  mile  or  so  from  this  tomb  is  the  Chao-hti  Ling^  the  mauso- 
leum in  which  the  Empress  of  T'ai  Tsung  and  mother  of  Shun-ohih 
is  buried.  She  came  to  the  south  with  her  son  and  died  in  Peking, 
about  the  year  1688.  This  tomb  has  been  lately  repaired.  The 
following  is  given  as  the  reason  why  she  was  not  buried  at  Moukden 
with  her  royal  consort,  T'ai  Tsung.  They  say  that  when  her  coffin  had 
been  carried  as  far  as  the  Great  Wall,  it  was  found  impossible  to  carry 
it  further  in  the  direction  of  Manchuria.  No  matter  how  many  men 
were  ordered  to  carry  it,  move  the  coffin  would  not.  The  emperor 
E'ang-hsi  accordingly  came  to  the  conclusion  that  his  late  grandmother 
had  a  strong  objection  to  being  buried  in  the  north,  and  he  caused  this 
tomb  to  be  constructed. 

The  mausoleum  prepared  for  the  present  Empresses  regent  is  on  the 
west  of  the  main  road.  It  i»  only  just  complete,  and  has  cost  the 
Government  six  million  taels,  or  about  1,500,0002.  The  site  was  chosen 
by  the  Empresses  themselves  when  on  a  visit  to  the  tombs  in  1873. 
This  mausoleum  is  spoken  of  officially  by  a  euphemism  as  **  the  happy 
land  for  ten  thousand  years."  As  in  the  case  of  T'ung-chih's  tomb, 
the  stone  figures  are  wanting.  After  crossing  the  marble  bridge  the 
road  divides,  and  there  is  a  separate  approach  to  the  east  and  west  half 
of  the  building.  On  the  eastern  side  the  senior  Empress,  known  as  the 
Eastern  Empress  from  the  position  of  her  apartments  in  the  palace  at 
Peking,  will  be  buried ;  and  the  junior  Empress,  who  for  a  similar  reason 
is  known  as  the  Western  Empress,  on  the  western  side.  The  buildings 
of  this  mausoleum  appeared  to  be  particularly  well  constructed ;  they 
are  raised  three  feet  above  the  ground  on  a  platform  composed  of  magni- 
ficent blocks  of  stone,  and  have  altogether  a  look  of  solidity  and 
thoroughness  in  construction  rarely  seen  in  modem  Chinese  architecture. 
In  front  of  the  buildings,  on  each  side  of  the  approach,  artificial  mounds 
have  been  raised,  which  are  planted  with  young  fir-trees,  brought  down 
from  Manchuria  for  the  purpose. 


80     NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TC^  THE  IMPERUL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING. 

Not  far  to  the  south-west  is  the  Ting  Ling,  or  Tomb  of  Hsien-fgng, 
who  died  in  1861,  and  whose  consorts  the  present  Empresses  regent 
were.  There  are  only  five  pairs  of  stone  figures  in  front  of  this  tomb, 
and  they  are  most  diminutive.  From  their  insignificanoe  here,  and  their 
absence  altogether  from  the  tomb  of  T'ung-chih,  one  is  led  to  suppose 
that  the  Chinese  in  the  present  day  are  unable  to  produce  these  figures, 
either  for  want  of  stone  of  proper  dimensions,  or  of  the  skilled  labour 
required.  ' 

North-west  of  T'nng-dhih's  tomb,  on  the  banks  of  the  stream  that 
runs  in  front  of  it,  is  the  site  of  a  mausoleum  that  was  built  for  the 
Emperor  Tao-kuang  (1820-1850),  and  afterwards  destroyed  under 
curious  circumstances.  According  to  Chinese  custom,  the  ^presentatives 
of  consecutive  generations  should  be  buried  alternately  on  the  east  and 
west  sides  of  the  family  cemetery.  To  apply  this  principle  to  the  Im- 
perial Tombs,  a  site  was  selected  about  two  days'  journey  to  the  west  of 
Peking,  that  might  correspond  to  the  west  of  a  private  cemetery,  as  the 
tombs  under  consideration  do  to  the  east.  Yung-ch6ng  was  the  first 
emperor  buried  in  the  western  tombs;  his  successor,  K'ien-lung,  was 
buried  in  the  east ;  the  next  Emperor,  Ghia-ching,  in  the  west ;  and  a 
tomb  for  his  successor,  Tao-kuang,  was  constructed  at  the  eastern 
inclosure.*  This  tomb,  as  usual,  was  prepared  before  the  death  of  the 
Emperor.  By  the  direction  of  a  Grand  Secretary,  named  Ying-ho,  the 
elaborate  and  costly  drainage  arrangements,  which  formed  a  part  of  the 
plan,  were  omitted,  by  which  Ying-ho  is  said  to  have  made  100,000  taels 
or  80,000Z.  The  Empress  died  first,  and  was  buried  in  the  tomb,  but  the 
stone  door  was  not  finally  closed  until  the  Emperor  should  join  her.  On 
one  of  the  Emperor's  visitis  to  sacrifice  at  the  Tombs  he  expressed  a  wish 
to  see  his  own  future  resting-place.  On  his  ordering  the  stone  door  to 
be  opened,  that  he  might  enter  the  tumulus  itself,  he  was  horrified  to 
see  that  there  were  some  feet  of  water  in  the  chamber — enough  to  reach 
the  level  of  the  stone  bed  on  which  the  coffin  lay.  Ying-ho  was 
banished,  and  his  possessions  forfeited.  The  Emperor  decreed  that  a 
new  mausoleum  should  be  constructed  at  the  western  tombs,  180  miles 
off.  The  building  was  razed  to  the  ground ;  some  of  the  materials  were 
removed  to  the  new  site,  but  the  greater  part  were  left,  and  we  noticed 
pieces  of  chastely-carved  stone,  that  formerly  belonged  to  this  tomb, 
carelessly  thrown  together  to  form  extempore  bridges.  There  are  not 
wanting  believers  in  fSng-ahui  who  attribute  the  misfortunes  of  the  pre- 
sent dynasty,  even  the  untimely  death  of  the  late  Emperor,  to  this  un- 
toward incident,  and  the  mistake  made  in  changing  the  site  of  this  tomb. 

*  Tao-kaang  being  buried  at  the  western,  liis  successor,  Hsicn-feng,  was  interred  at 
the  eastern  tombs.  The  late  emperor  T'ung-chih  ought  therefore  to  liave  been  buried 
at  the  western  tombs ;  but  when  he  visited  them  shortly  before  his  death  he  is  said  to 
have  ^pressed  such  tt  dislike  to  the  place  that  the  rule  was  neglected,  and  he  was 
buried  here. 


NOTES  OF  A  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  MAUSOLEA,  EAST  OF  PEKING.      31 

Ample  proviflioii  has  been  made  for  the  protection  and  maintenance 
in  repair  of  the  tombs.  Besides  an  office  of  works  at  Shih-m€n,  there  is 
a  regular  number  of  men,  varying  from  10  to  40,  attached  to  each 
mausolenm,  as  carpenters,  blacksmiths,  gardeners,  sweepers  away  of 
mow  and  dust,  &o.  There  are  large  barracks  in  different  parts  of  the 
endosnre  for  Manchn  gnards,  and  at  Ma-lan  ChSn  1000  Chinese  troops 
are  stationed.  All  the  troops,  Manchu  and  Chinese,  are  under  the 
charge  of  a  ocmunandant,  who  resides  at  Ma-lan  ChSn. 

The  pay  of  artificers  and  troops  19  as  nsnal  very  small,  and  as  nsnal 
they  make  np  the  deficiency  in  ways  prejudiciiJ  to  their  employers. 
This  they  do  by  cutting  wood  from  the  hills  on  the  north  of  the 
indoflore,  and  by  shcwting  and  snaring  the  game.  Cutting  wood  within 
ibe  indosnre  and  selling  it  for  fuel  was  his  only  means  of  subsistence, 
oar  guide  told  us.  In  the  hills  on  the  north  there  is  plenty  of  game — 
pheasants  and  deer, — besides  wolves,  leopards,  and  monkeys.*  On  the 
level  ground  to  the  south  I  put  up  hare,  quail,  and  duck.  It  is  strictly 
forbidden  under  penalty  of  death  to  destroy  any  living  thing  or  to  cut 
wood  -within  the  inclosure.  Yet  pheasants  were  on  sale  in  the  streets 
which  eveiy  one  knew  had  been  shot  there.  We  were  prevented  by  the 
snow  £rom  going  into  the  hills,  but  in  some  rough  ground  we  passed 
orer,  we  noticed  the  lairs  of  wolves,  and  the  tracks  of  their  feet  in  the 
mow,  and  a  Ma-lan  Yu  man  was  bitten  by  a  leopard  on  the  night  before 
my  arrival — proo&  of  the  existence  of  large  game. 

Five  miles  to  the  east  of  Ma-lan  Yu,  at  a  temple  called  Fu  Ch'iian 
Ssji,  there  is  a  hot  spring.     There  is  a  large  bath  in  the  temple,  and  the 
water  is  believed  by  the  natives  to  possess  valuable  medicinal  qualities. 
It  has  been  analysed  by  M.  Billequin,  Professor  of  Chemistry  in  the 
Peking  College,  with  the  following  result :  In  one  litre  of  water  there 
tie  0*732  grammes  of  constant  constituents,  of  which  0*15  is  sulphur- 
natron,  0*382  sulphate  of  soda  (Glauber*s   salts,  NaO,  SO,),  0*118 
lalphate  of  lime  (CaO,  SOj),  and  0*081  of  salts  of  chlorine  and  the 
alkaline  carbonates ;  temperature  H.  45.     Dr.  Bretschncider,  in  his  in- 
teresting account  of  the  Peking  Plain,  says : — "  The  Emperor  K'ang-hsi 
Ijathed  here  often.    Tradition  says  that  Hua-t'o,  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated Chinese  physicians,  in  the  third  century  a.d.,  lived  here,  and 
reoommended  the  use  of  the  water  to  his  patients. 

*  Tkia  maitk«j  ia  said  to  be  a  now  species.    Dr.  Bashell,  pbysiciao  to  U.  B.  M. 
Lqjatlon,  Peking,  has  obtained  a  specimen. 


(    32    ) 

GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Departure  of  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson. — Mr.  Thomson  left  England  for 
Zanzibar  by  the  British  India  Company's  steamer  NavarinOy  on  the 
13th  of  December.  The  precise  route  to  be  taken  by  his  expedition  is  not 
yet  fixed  and  will  depend  on  the  result  of  preliminary  inquiries  he  will 
make  on  the  coast;  but  he  will  aim  at  accomplishing  both  the  chief 
objects  of  the  enterprise,  namely,  the  exploration  of  a  direct  route  to 
the  eastern  shores  of  Victoria  Nyanza  and  the  examination  of  Mount 
Eenia.  The  Society  are  indebted  to  Mr.  W.  Mackinnon,  Chairman  of  the 
British  India  Steam  Navigation  Company,  for  his  accustomed  liberal  con- 
cession with  regard  to  Mr.  Thomson's  passage,  and  to  Mr.  John  Pender, 
Chairman  of  the  Eastern  Telegraph  Company,  for  offering  to  transmit 
free  all  telegrams  relating  to  the  expedition.  Her  Majesty's  Gk>veniment 
have  also  aided,  as  on  several  former  similar  occasions,  by  supplying 
the  arms  for  the  native  escort  of  the  expedition. 

Mr.  Thomson  will  be  preceded  in  the  same  region  by  a  German 
expedition  under  Dr.  Fischer,  a  former  companion  of  the  Messrs.  Den- 
hardt  in  their  exploration  of  the  river  Dana ;  but  this  expedition  will 
follow  a  different  route  from  that  of  our  English  traveller.  According 
to  the  latest  news  (November  12th),  Dr.  Fischer  was  organising  his 
party  at  Pangani,  intending  to  proceed  to  Mount  Kilimanjaro.  He  had 
engaged  800  men,  all  but  eight  having  had  previous  experience  in 
caravan  travelling  in  the  Masai  country. 

Becent  News  from  Lake  Nyassa  and  Neighbourhood.— Letters  re- 
ceived last  month  by  the  Free  Church  Missionary  Society  describe  a  visit 
of  the  marauding  Magwangwara  to  the  eastern  shores  of  Lake  Nyassa. 
The  same,  or  another,  war  party  of  this  tribe  attacked  and  destroyed  the 
Universities*  Mission  village  Msasi,  north  of  the  Hovuma  river,  more 
than  300  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  in  September,  whilst  the  visit  to 
Nyassa  appears  to  have  been  in  August.  The  letters  state  that  the 
mission  steamer  Ilalaj  commanded  by  Captain  Gowans,  crossed  the  lake 
from  Bandawe  to  Ngoi  with  supplies  for  the  Rev.  W.  P.  Johnson  at  the 
end  of  August,  returning  with  Mr.  Johnson,  who  was  iU  of  fever,  on 
the  1st  of  September.,  They  further  say  that  when  the  Magwangwara 
appeared  near  his  station  making  raids  on  the  villages,  Mr.  Johnson  paid 
them  a  visit  and  learnt  that  the  attacking  party  had  been  driven  south 
by  another  tribe,  and  that  there  was  turmoil  in  the  country  behind  the 
Livingstone  Mountains.  The  Hala  had  recently  encountered  one  of  the 
fearful  storms  for  which  Lake  Nyassa  is  famous.  It  occurred  whilst  the 
steamer  was  at  anchor  off  Bandawe,  and  lasted  through  one  night  and 
far  into  the  next  day,  the  heavy  seas  breaking  over  the  vessel  and  her 
ai^hors  dragging  half  a  mile,  notwithstanding  that  she  was  steaming 
ahead  all  the  time  to  ease  the  stress  on  her  cables. 


(JEOGUAnilCAL  XOTtS.  83 

Portue^ese  Expedition  to  Umzeila's  Country. — Two  Portugueso  naval 
officors,  Lieut.  Cardoso  and  Dr.  Fi-anco,  loft  Mozambique,  in  September, 
to  conduct  an  expedition  to  Umzeila's.  They  wore  to  be  joined  by 
another  ofBoer  at  Inhambane.  The  exact  nature  and  object  of  this 
mission  is  not  given  out,  but  it  is  believed  to  be  partly  political  and 
partly  geographicaL  Some  amicable  settlement  with  Umzeila  is  necessary 
if  the  country  is  to  be  explored,  and  mines  worked  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Manica,  by  the  company  started  by  Captain  Paiva  de  Andrada, 
and  probably  the  chief  end  of  Lieut.  Cardoso's  journey  is  to  endeavour 
to  bring  this  about.  It  is  this  officer's  intention,  after  leaving  Umzeila's, 
to  cro88  to  Senna,  on  the  Zambesi,  and  to  visit  the  Nyassa  district;  but 
by  the  time  he  reaches  Senna  the  season  will  be  far  advanced,  and  the 
rains  heavily  set  in. 

Dr.  Junker  on  the  Welle.— Since  our  last  notice  of  Dr.  Junker's 
journey  to  the  Welle,*  that  indefatigable  explorer  has  continued  his 
work   with  unchecked    perseverance  and  considerable    success.      He 
returned  to  his  headquarters  at  Ndoruma's  residence  on  December  3rd, 
1880,  and  immediately  prepared  for  a  second  expedition,  on  which  he 
started  on  January  7th,  1881.    It  was  his  intention  to  penetrate  as  far 
as  the  residence  of  Bakangai,  a  powerful  Zandeh  chief,  to  the  south  of 
the  Welle.    Ho  reached  the  mountainous  country  of  the  A-Madi,  and 
actnally  crossed  the  Welle  in  February,  but  his  further  progress  was 
stopped  by  the  A-Mezima,  a  sub-tribe  of  the  A-Baramba.     Despoiled  of 
nearly  the  whole  of  his  outfit  he  was  forced  to  return  to  the  A-Madi, 
among  whom,  owing  to  the  disturbed  condition  of  the  country  to  the 
•onth,  he  spent  weary  months  in  enforced  idleness.     In  the  beginning 
of  1881  several  chiefs  of  Egyptian  posts  established  in  the  Monbuttu  or 
Hangb&ttu  country,  had  thought  fit  to  attack  Mambangd,  a  nephew  of 
Schweinfurth's  King  Munza,  so  cruelly  done  to  death  by  Yusuf-Pasha. 
Mambangd  resisted  the  aggressors  and  took  away  from  them  fifty  rifles, 
appealing  at  the  same  time  to  Dr.  Junker,  whom  he  had  befriended  in 
1880,  to  interfere  on  his  behalf.    Dr.  Junker,  however,  who  had  been 
granted  many  facilities  by  the  Egyptian  authorities,  felt  constrained  to 
olwervo  a  neutral  attitude.    When  Colonel  Hauash  reached  the  Welle 
wilh  reinforcements,  Mambanga  sought  safety  in  flight.    Ilauash  esta- 
blished himself  in  a  stockade  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  Monbuttu 
country,  clbee  to  Mambangd^s  old  residence,  and  not  far  from  the  spot 
where  Dr.  Junker  had  crossed  the  Welle  in  September  1880  (lat.  3°  45'  N., 
long.  27**  E.).    He,  too,  invited  Dr.  Junker  to  act  the  part  of  a  peace- 
maker, and  our  traveller  accepted  this  invitation  all  the  more  villingly, 
as  it  would  afibrd  him  an  opportunity  of  having  an  interview  with  the 
Italian  traveller  Casati,  who  had  then  recently  arrived  in  this  region. 
On  his  road  from  the  A-Madi  country  he  came  to  a  part  of  the  W^Jle, 

♦  '  rroc«ding8,»  1881,  p.  301. 
No.  L— Jan.  1883.]  d 


34  cseographical  notes. 

where  that  river  forms  numerous  islands,  inhabited  by  the  Embata  (a 
Monbuttu  tribe),  and  is  bounded  by  picturesque  mountains.  A  few 
days  before  his  arrival  at  the  Egyptian  stockade,  Mambanga  had 
unwisely  made  an  attack  upon  it,  and  although  this  assault  was  beaten 
back,  and  severe  loss  inflicted  upon  the  enemy.  Col.  Hauash  felt,  that  with 
the  eighty  musketeers  at  his  command,  and  an  insufficient  supply  of 
ammunition,  he  would  not  be  able  to  hold  his  ground  for  any  length  of 
time.  He,  therefore,  appealed  to  Dr.  Junker. to  bring  about  a  reconcili- 
ation. Mambanga  readily  granted  an  inforview,  but  stedfastly  refused 
to  go  to  the  Egyptian  stockade,  for  his  soothsayers  predicted  that  his 
doing  so  would  prove  disastrous.  Dr.  Junker's  assurance  that  times 
had  changed,  and  that  the  Egyptian  government  earnestly  desired  to 
live  on  friendly  terms  with  the  i  native  chiefs,  and  would  in  case  of  need 
defend  them  against  aggressors,  found  no  credence.  Much  time  was 
spent  in  this  way  in  futile  palavers.  In  November  the  expected  rein- 
forcements under  Bahid  Bey  arrived  at  length,  and  Mambanga  fled  to 
the  westward.  A  small  expedition  at  once  started  in  pursuit  of  the 
fugitives,  who  were  overtaken  and  dispersed.  This  expedition  Dr. 
Junker  accompanied.  For  four  days  they  travelled  along  the  southern 
bank  of  the  Welle,  past  the  islands  of  the  Embatd,  who  found  themselves 
attacked  in  their  strongholds  by  an  auxiliary  flotilla  of  Baginzo  from 
the  Upper  Welle,  and  as  far  as  the  country  of  the  A-Mezimd,  who  had 
robbed  Dr.  Junker  in  February  1881,  and  were  now  called  upon  to  make 
restitution  of  the  property  they  had  stolen.  Two  days  further  to  the 
westward,  in  about  lat.  ^  N.,  long.  26°  E.,  the  Welle  receives  a  con- 
siderable tributary  from  the  south,  which  figures  as  Nomayo  on  Dr. 
Schweinfurth's  map,  but  the  real  name  of  which  is  Bomokandi. 
Dr.  Junker  tells  us  that  Welle  and  Nomayo  Iwth  mean  river,  the  one 
in  the  language  of  the  Niam-niam  or  Zandoh,  the  other  in  that  of  the 
Monbuttu.  The  real  name  of  the  Welle  is  Mukua.  The  country 
between  the  Makua  and  Bomokundi,  to  the  west  of  the  Monbuttu,  is 
inhabited  by  the  A-Barambo,  a  negro  tribe,  governed  by  Zandch  chiefs. 
To  the  west  of  them,  beyond  the  Bomokandi  and  along  the  south  bank 
of  the  Mdkua  live  the  A-Babua,  who  speak  a  language  akin  to  that  of 
the  Monbuttu.  On  reaching  the  A-Mczima  country.  Dr.  Junker  at 
once  sent  messengers  and  presents  to  the  chief  Bakangai,  who  lives  four 
days  to  the  south.  They  returned  in  the  course  of  five  days  with  a 
chimpanzee  and  a  few  tusks  of  ivory  as  a  return  present.  The  per- 
mission sought  for  was  granted,  and  Dr.  Junker  started  at  once.  Two 
days  brought  him  to  the  Bomokandi,  one  day  beyond  which  ho  came  to 
Bakangai's  residence.  After  a  ten  days'  journey  thence  in  an  easterly 
direction  he  reached  Eanna's,  where  he  turned  to  the  northward,  towards 
Tangasi,  near  Munza's  old  residence,  where  he  arrived  in  February  last, 
and  once  more  met  Captain  Casati.  From  Tangasi  Dr.  Junker  removed 
to  the  Zeriba  Kubbi,  three  days  to  the  east,  whence  he  started  on  a  circular 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  35 

trip  to  Gango,  and  tho  head  of  the  Gadda  river  in  the  Momvu  country. 
Soon  after  his  return,  on  March  26th,  he  once  more  left  Kubbi,  this  time 
in  a  southerly  direction,  his  intention  being  to  visit  Mbelia  and  Sanga, 
two  brothers  of  Munza,  who  live  beyond  the  npper  Bomokdndi,  known  to 
the  Momvii  as  Men.  From  this  trip  Dr.  Junker  expected  to  be  back  in 
April,  and  his  supplies  being  quite  exhausted,  he  will  be  unable  to  await 
the  arrival  of  Emin  Bey,  and  will  at  once  return  to  Ndoruma's  territory 
in  the  north.  Before  coming  home  to  Europe  Dr.  Junker  proposes  to  visit 
the  region  stretching  away  to  the  westward,  beyond  Ndoruma*s  and 
Sasa's  territories,  which  may  enable  him  to  settle  the  vexed  question  of 
the  lower  course  of  the  Makua.  "  If  native  information  can  be  trusted," 
■>  says  Dr.  Junker,  "  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  M4kua  is  the  head 
stream  of  the  Shari,  whilst  the  Nepoko,  a  river  rising  far  to  the  east  and 
flowing  in  a  southerly  direction,  is  Stanlejr's  Aruwimi,"  and  consequently 
a  tributary  of  the  CJongo.  Dr.  Junker  refers  somewhat  vaguely  to  a  large 
lake  to  the  south  of  the  regions  explored  by  him,  and  his  preliminary 
accounts,  together  with  information  obtained  by  former  explorers,  enable 
US  to  fix  with  a  considerable  amount  of  confidence  the  position  of  the  lake 
Key  el  Aby  referred  to  in  tho  interesting  communication  of  Mr.  Lupton 
in  the  last  number  of  our  *  Proceedings.*  *  Rafai,  who  is  Mr.  Lupton's 
informant,  is  no  stranger  to  African  geographers,  for  his  station  (or  one 
of  them)  was  visited  by  Dr.  Potagos,  and  he  is  repeatedly  referred  to  in 
Dr.  Junker's  reports.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  Mr.  Lupton's  Bahr  el 
Makwar  is  identical  with  the  Makua,  which  Bafai  must  have  crossed 
some  distance  below  its  confiuence  with  tho  Bomokandi.  Crossing  at 
this  spot  Bafai  would  have  come  into  the  country  of  the  Babiia,  easily 
recognised  as  Mr.  Lupton's  Barboa.  The  lake  is  said  to  lie  at  a  distance 
of  fourteen  days'  journey  to  tho  S.S.  W.  of  the  Mdkua  ferry,  and  allowing 
a  daily  progress  of  nine  geographical  miles,  its  position  would  bo  in 
about  lat.  2°  N.,  long.  25°  E.,  or  within  a  hundred  miles  of  the  Congo. 
The  articles  of  European  manufacture  obtained  by  the  Babua  from  the 
people  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake  probably  reach  them  through  tho 
Arabs  established  at  Nyangwe,  whose  presence  Dr.  Junker  tells  us  is 
known  in  the  countries  recently  crossed  by  him.  The  alternative  name 
for  the  Makua  given  by  Mr.  Lupton,  viz.  Bahr  el  Warshal,  reminds  us 
of  Dr.  Potagos'  Ushal,  which  is  said  frequently  to  expand  into  lakes. 
Mr.  Lupton  is  not,  however,  the  first  who  refers  to  the  existence  of  a 
largo  lake  in  this  part  of  Africa.  On  a  map  published  by  Count 
Escayrao  de  Lauture  in  1855,  we  find  figured  a  lake  Koey-dabo,  which 
discharges  the  Shari  to  the  westward  and  the  Kuan  to  the  north-east- 
ward, in  the  direction  of  the  Nile.  More  definite  is  the  information 
obtained  by  Poncet,  Hcuglin,  and  Miani.    Poncet's  Birket  Metuasi  is 

•  See  p.  685.  Compare  HUtlieilungen,  1882,  pp.  423, 441 .  It  is  from  the  MUtheilungen^ 
VEtphratore  and  L'Exploration  that  we  have  derived  the  above  information  on  Dr 
Jank^s  latest  doings. 

n  2 


86  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

describod  as  an  expansion  of  the  Welle ;  Heuglin's  *  Immeasurable  lake 
is  said  to  lie  five  days  to  the  south  of  the  river  of  Sena,  which  is  the 
same  as  the  M4kua,  whilst  Miani's  large  lake  is  situated  to  the  south- 
west of  Bakangai's,  in  lat.  2°  30'  N.    Its  shores  are  said  to  he  inhabited 
by  Grange^  north  of  whom  live  the  Babiia. 

The  French  on  the  Higer.-^When  the  project  of  a  railway  across  the 
Sahara  to  Timbuktu  was  definitely  given  up,  the  attention  of  the  French 
Government  was  concentrated  upon  the  development  of  the  Senegambian 
possessions.  Already,  in  1862,  General  Faidherbe,  one  of  the  ablest 
governors  ever  placed  at  the  head  of  a  French  colony,  had  advocated  an 
advance  to  the  Niger.  The  political  events  which  soon  afterwatds 
absorbed  the  whole  energies  of  France,  caused  this  project  to  be  shelved, 
and  it  is  only  within  the  last  few  years  that  efforts  are  being  made 
towards  its  realisation.  In  1879,  Captain  Gallieni  secured  the  permis- 
sion of  the  native  chief  to  construct  a  fort  at  Bafulabe,  on  the  Bafing 
(lat.  13°  47'  N.,  long.  10°  49'  W.).  In  the  following  year  he  started  for 
the  Niger,  and  although  plundered  by  the  Bambara  before  he  reached 
that  river,  he  courageously  continued  his  journey  into  the  territory  of 
Ahmadu,  the  successor  of  the  fanatic  Haj  Omar,  king  of  Segu ;  and  on 
March  10th,  1881,  after  a  long  detention  in  the  country,  he  induced  that 
monarch  to  sign  a  treaty,  by  which  his  kingdom  was  placed  under  the 
protection  of  France.  Whilst  Gallieni  was  still  absent  on  this  mission, 
Colonel  Borgnis-Desbordes  left  St.  Louis  with  a  body  of  troops,  and  on 
February  7th,  1881,  occupied  Kita,  an  important  position  half-way  between 
Bafulabe  and  the  Niger,  in  kt.  13°  3'  N.,  long.  9°  27'  W.,  and  at  an 
elevation  of  1175  feet  above  the  sea.  A  second  expedition,  under  the 
same  leader,  started  in  1881,  and  on  January  7th,  1882,  reached  Kita, 
where  the  garrison  had  suffered  much  from  the  unhealthiness  of  the  site 
selected  for  strategical  reasons.  Just  then  a  new  prophet,  Samory, 
was  preying  upon  the  peaceable  Malinko  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Niger. 
The  inhabitants  of  Keniora  (lat.  11°  N.,  long.  8°  40'  W.)  appealed  to  the 
French  for  help,  but  before  the  detachment  despatched  for  their  relief 
could  reach  them,  their  village  had  been  taken  and  its  inhabitants 
killed,  or  carried  into  slavery.  Samory's  aimy  dispersed  on  the  first 
cannon-shot,  but  the  small  French  force  was  nevertheless  compelled  to 
withdraw,  harassed  during  its  retreat  by  the  enemy's  horsemen.  To 
wipe  out  this  undignified  retreat,  and  to  gain  a  firm  footing  on  the 
Niger,  a  third  expedition,  once  more  under  the  lead  of  Colonel  Borgnis- 
Desbordes,  has  been  organised,  and  is  by  this  time  preparing  to  start 
from  the  Upper  Senegal.  Dr.  Bayol  will  act  as  its  precursor,  by  seeking 
alliances  in  Kaarta  and  Segu.  The  military  expeditionary  corps  consists 
of  two  companies  of  marines,  three  companies  of  native  Tirailleurs,  a 
battery  of  artillery,  and  a  troop  of  Spahis,  and  numbers  about  1000  men. 
It  is  destined  for  Bamaku,  on  the  Niger,  where  a  fort  will  be  built  and  a 
flotilla  of  armed  steamers  launched,  the  engines  for  which  are  being 


GEOaRAPHICAL  NOTES.  37 

carried  there  from  France.  Simultaneously  with  the  troops  a  railway 
corps  of  1500  mon  has  been  despatohod,  under  M.  Jacqnier,  who  will 
continue  the  construction  of  a  railway  which  is  to  connect  Kai,  or 
Eayes,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Senegal,  near  Medina,  with  Kita 
and  the  Niger.  This  railway  was  begun  last  year,  but,  owing  to  the 
sickness  among  engineers  and  labourers,  but  little  progress  has  as  yet 
been  made.  The  total  length  of  this  line  will  be  over  300  miles,  and 
342,000i.  were  last  year  vote^  towards  its  cost  by  the  French  Chambers. 
The  railway  from  Dakar  to  St.  Louis  was  to  have  been  proceeded  with 
in  the  course  of  November,  notwithstanding  the  opposition  offered  by 
the  Darnel  of  Eayor. 

Baines,  the  African  Traveller.— A  marble  tablet  to  the  memory  of  the 
lato  Thomas  Baines  is  about  to  be  erected  in  the  parish  church  at  Durban, 
where  this  enthusiastic  and  persevering  African  traveller  was  well 
known  and  respected.  The  inscription  is  as  follows  : — "  To  the  memory 
of  Thomas  Baines,  F.R.a.s.,  the  artist  and  traveller,  who  explored  a  great 
part  of  the  South  African  interior  and  Western  Australia,  portraying 
the  scenery  and  the  native  life  of  these  countries  with  rare  fidelity  and 
graphic  power,  by  pen  and  pencil,  and  who  endeared  himself  to  his 
many  friends  by  the  unselfishness,  simplicity,  and  nobility  of  his  cha- 
racter. He  was  bom  at  Lynn,  Norfolk,  England,  in  1822,  and  died  at 
Durban,  Natal,  on  the  8th  of  April,  1875.  This  tablet  was  erected  by 
his  old  and  sorrowing  friend,  Kobert  White,  formerly  of  Graham's 
Town,  now  of  London." 

Oold  Coast  Inland  Topography.  —  A  despatch  from  Mr.  Alfred 
Moloney,  Administrator  of  the  Gold  Coast  Colony,  dated  Accra,  Aug.  8th 
last  (a  copy  of  which  is  in  the  Society's  library),  contains  a  report  by 
Mr.  Chas.  W.  Thompson,  Assistant  Inspector  of  the  local  constabulary, 
upon  his  journey  of  123  miles  from  Accra  to  Prahsue,  vi&  Insabang  and 
Insuaim,  returning  to  Elmina  by  Acroful,  Abracampah,  and  Assayboo. 
This  report  supplies  details  of  some  60  miles  of  previously  unknown 
country  between  Lisabang  and  the  Frah,  including  the  course  of  that 
river  north  of  Cocochinchin  ;  it  also  corroborates  previous  ideas  as  to  tho 
richness  in  gold  of  Aguna  and  Western  Akim,  and  the  importance  of 
developing  the  economic  botany  of  the  colony ;  and  it  affords  further 
instances  of  the  loss  of  power  by  the  chiefs  of  the  protected  territories. 
—Mr.  Thompson  left  Accra  on  June  4th  last,  and  followed  the  coast  past 
fishing  villages  to  tho  Seccoom,  shortly  after  crossing  which  he  struck 
inland  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  entering  the  Goomoah  country, 
and  finding  the  forest  gradually  more  dense  as  he  left  the  coast.  Many 
streams  were  crossed,  but  the  first  of  any  importance  was  the  Aynsue, 
which  was  then  (in  the  dry  season)  25  feet  wide  and  2^  feet  deep, 
being  20  feet  deep  and  CO  feet  wide  when  full.  At  the  neighbouring 
village  of  Asafu,  gold  is  collected  in  the  street  gutters  after  mins,  and 


sa 


G^OGRAMlICAt  NOTES. 


Mr.  Thompaon  himself  saw  about  four  grains  found  on  the  previous 
day.— The  Accra  is  another  fine  stream,  20  feet  wide  and  throe  feet  deepii| 
and  at  Aguna  Swaydra,  on  its  right  bank,  fine  specimens  of  anrifer 
quartz  from  Quabin  were  seen.  Insabang,  the  capital  of  Aguna,  and 
rosidence  of  King  Kofi  Chintor^  wan  reached  on  Juno  8th,  and  found  to 
contain  160  houses,  though  half  wore  unoccupied  and  falling  into  decay. 
It  is  situated  on  a  sloping  rock  of  soft  rod  soapy  stone,  through  which 
streaks  of  quartz  crop  up  in  wcll-doHned  cast  and  west  lines.  SUirtiug 
from  Insabang  on  June  10th,  and  still  striking  north,  Mr.  Thompson 
crossed  the  boundary  between  Aguna  and  Akim,  and  after  passing 
various  streams  and  villages,  came  to  Asuboah,  wliich  is  noticeable  for 
producing  a  very  large  kind  of  snail  highly  prized  as  an  article  of  diet 
in  the  neighbourhood.  Mansue,  further  north,  was  found  to  be  a  fine 
open  town  of  8<:inie  230  houses,  with  gold  in  the  villages  near  it;  and 
InBUuim  or  Insuayem,  the  capital  and  residence  of  Atah  Fuah,  King  of 
Western  Akim,  which  was  reached  after  crossing  various  streams  and 
approached  through  continuous  plantations,  is  still  larger,  having  wide 
streets  of  some  400  small  houses,  built  on  a  slope  facing  north  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  AfotoHUo  and  Birrim  rivers.  Farming  is  here  the  solo 
industry ;  palm  oil  and  juniper  berries  arc  sent  away  largely,  and  Hussas 
visit  the  town  to  purchiise  the  cola  nn  t,  which  flourishes  in  the  district,  andi 
was  frequently  met  with  on  the  road  from  the  coast.  The  Bimm  river,  oven 
in  the  dry  season,  was  uniformly  six  feet  deep  and  30  yards  wide,  with 
a  current  of  two  miles  an  hour ;  it  was  stated  to  attain  a  great  velocity 
in  the  rains^  and  to  l>e  thou  over  2!"}  feet  deep.  It  was  apparently 
navigable  at  Insuaim,  not  only  for  canoes  but  light  boats;  but  the 
natives  declared  that  there  were  many  places  completely  blocked  with 
falkm  trees  and  snags. — Leaving  Insuaim  on  Juno  15th,  the  journey  north- 
wards to  the  Prah  was  continued,  across  some  dozen  small  rivers  and 
streams  flowing  west,  and  past  various  villages  to  Iribee,  a  remarkably 
filthy  tmvn,  near  which  quantities  of  gum  were  collected,  and  a  tree  was 
observed,  the  bark  of  which  is  found  efficacious  Ivy  the  natives  in  the 
treatment  of  sprains,  ttc.  No  rubber  was  observed  during  any  part 
of  the  journey,  but  a  very  tenacious  gum  is  used  as  a  bird-linio  by^ 
the  natives.  Up  to  this  point  the  road  from  Accra  is  stated  to  bel 
practicable  for  hammock  travelling,  and  is  believed  so  to  continue  up  to 
Berouassie,  but  Mr.  Thompson  only  speaks  from  report,  as  he  turacd 
westward  by  a  bueli  path  to  the  Trah.  Ho  found  that  the  fine 
broad  river  '*  Aninnio  "  marked  in  Butler's  map  of  Akim  as  a  tributary 
of  the  latter  river,  most  certainly  does  not  exist  south  of  Iribee,  nor 
do  the  people  there  know  of  such  a  river,  though  there  is  a  small  stream 
to  the  north  called  Annanah.  Arrived  at  the  Prah,  at  Pahooroodoo,  it 
was  found  to  be  60  feet  wide,  10  feet  deep  in  the  middle,  full  of 
rocks,  and  with  a  current  running  three  miles  an  hour.  The  natives 
cross  it  by  hauling  on  to  a  rope  of  plaited  rt^eds  suspended  from  bauk 
to  bank,  having  no  canoes,  but  using  floating  logs  instead.   Mr.  Thompson 


GEOdRAPfllCAL  NOTES.  39 

followed  the  river  by  a  tortuous  bush  path,  much  encumbered  by  trees 
and  parasitic  growth,  and  after  crossing  four  streams  bridged  by  lines 
of  poles  on  single  uprights,  and  passing  three  villages  where  no  white 
man  had  ever  before  been,  according  to  the  natives,  arrived  at  the 
deserted  village  of  Cocochinchin,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Prah,  which 
he  forded,  finding  it  114  feet  wide.  An  attempt  to  clear  a  path  to  strike 
southwards  from  Eggwinassie,  a  short  distance  below  Cocochinchin,  was 
frustrated  by  an  attack  of  fever,  and  Mr.  Thompson  was  oompoUed  to 
make  for  Prahsue  by  the  direct  track ;  but  his  survey  and  observations 
on  tho  river  from  Pahooroodoo  to  Eggwinassie  supply  new  particulars 
of  its  course ;  and  as  he  carefully  paced  the  whole  distance  from  Insabang, 
and  very  frequently  observed  the  bearings  of  the  road,  he  claims  a  fair 
degree  of  accuracy  for  this  portion  of  his  sketch  map,  which  is  practically 
new  ground.  This  map  (scale  2f  miles  to  the  inch)  accompanies  the 
Beport,  with  a  route-table  showing  villages,  distances,  number  of  houses, 
chiefs,  water  supply,  &c.,  supplementing  tho  numerous  topographical 
details  in  the  Beport  itself. 

Simrey  of  the  Anoobra  Blver  and  Axim  Gold  District — Commander 
B.  Mnrray  Bumsey,  R.N.,  in  another  Beport  (of  which  a  copy  has  been 
sapplied  to  the  library  by  tho  Colonial  Office),  dated  August  0th  last, 
has  supplied  details  of  a  piece  of  work  likely  to  be  of  considerable  utility 
in  the  development  of  the  gold  region  of  Axim.  Having  made  a  rough 
survey  of  the  entrance  of  the  Ancobra,  he  started  up  it  in  a  steam 
pinnace  on  July  17th,  and  after  passing  Akanko  and  Tomento,  reached 
the  confluence  of  the  Bonsah  on  the  next  day,  but  was  then  unable  to 
£[dlow  the  latter  river  on  account  of  its  being  blocked  by  newly  fallen 
trees.  Having  returned  to  Tomento  and  sent  back  the  pinnace  to  Axim, 
he  continued  his  journey  by  land.  From  his  observations,  it  appears 
that  the  Ancobra  from  its  mouth  to  Akanko  averages  80  to  100  yards 
in  width,  and  the  soundings  in  mid  stream  when  the  river  is 
high  would  be  from  3^  to  4i  fathoms.  Beyond  Akanko,  tho  river 
gradually  narrows,  and  at  Tomento,  25  miles  further  up,  it  is  about 
35  or  40  yards  wide,  but  still  of  a  good  depth,  and  were  it  not  for  tho 
numerous  fallen  trees  and  some  rocks  above  Inframangio,  would  bo 
navigable  still  further  by  any  vessel  that  could  cross  tho  bar  at  its 
mouth.  It  rises  to  its  full  state  about  June,  and  is  low  again  in  Sep- 
tember (ranging  from  25  to  30  feet  between  the  two  conditions),  thus 
peculiarly  differing  from  the  Volta,  which  is  not  full  until  September, 
and  then  falls  more  gradually,  not  getting  to  its  lowest  state  until  the 
following  May.  This  is  apparently  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that 
the  Anoobra  and  its  chief  tributary  the  Bonsah  are  supplied  chiefly 
from  the  small  streams  which  abound  some  50  or  60  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  are  consequently  affected  by  the  purely  coast  seasons,  rising 
in  the  rains  and  falling  as  soon  as  they  are  over ;  whereas  the  Volta 
receives  its  supply  further  inland  and  is  dependent  on  the  seasons  in 
the  interior.    Commander  Bumsey  struck  across  country  through  thick 


40  ClIiOGRAPinCAL  NOTES. 

forest  from  Totuento  on  tbo  east  bank  of  the  river  to  the  Bonsah,  finding 
in  the  valleys  distinct  indications  of  recent  heavy  floods.  The  Bonsah 
itself  was  then  25  yards  wide  and  eight  feet  deep  in  mid  stream,  with  a 
current  of  two  miles  an  hour ;  but  when  the  heavy  rains  set  in,  the 
waters  rise  to  the  top  of  its  banks,  which  are  from  20  to  25  feet  high. 
From  the  village  of  Bonsah  (or  Apankroom)  to  Tarquah,  the  centre  of 
the  gold  district,  the  road  lay  through  country  of  a  like  nature  to  that 
previously  traversed,  and  apparently  consisting  of  a  succession  of  ridges 
running  north  and  south  in  two  parallel  lines  coursing  east  and  west. 
The  general  features  of  the  country  about  Tarquah  itself  consist  of  two 
ranges  200  to  300  feet  above  sea-level,  running  in  a  north-east  and 
south-west  direction  for  12  or  14  miles,  and  about  a  mile  apart.  The 
town  is  in  the  valley  between  these  ridges,  and  the  mines  are  mostly 
on  the  eastern  one  of  them,  the  workable  quartz  reef  probably  ex- 
tending along  the  entire  length  of  the  western  face  of  that  range, 
(yommander  Bumsoy  enumerates  the  various  working  companies  and 
discusses  their  concessions,  &c.,  pointing  out  that  the  great  difficulty  of 
transport  from  the  coast  might  be  well  removed  by  the  Gold  Coast 
Government  undertaking  a  road,  to  be  kept  up  by  a  carrying-tax.  Should 
this  be  done,  he  thinks  that  Inframangio,  3^  miles  south  of  Tomeuto  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Ancobra,  would  be  the  best  starting-point,  the  road 
being  made  thence  through  Bonsah.  Ho  also  points  out  the  conflicting 
native  jurisdictions  in  Wassaw  and  Opinto,  and  suggests  means  for 
settling  districts.  The  Report  is  accompanied  by  charts  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Ancobra  (400  feet  to  the  inch),  and  of  its  course  to  the  Bonsah 
junction  (1800  yards  to  the  inch),  both  with  soundings ;  also  by  a  sketch 
survey  of  the  gold-mining  district  from  Tomonto  to  Tarquah  (including 
Crockerville),  on  the  latter  scale,  and  a  copy  of  the  map  to  J.  Bonnat's 
concession;  also  by  an  appendix  enumerating  the  native  chiefs  of 
Wassaw  and  Opinto  and  their  territories,  and  a  list  of  villages  and 
distances. 

Present  State  of  Easter  Island.— This  remote  outlying  member  of 
the  Polynesian  island-groups,  so  remarkable  for  its  stone  sculptures  and 
remains  of  native  architecture,  was  visited  in  June  last  by  Commander 
Bouverie  F.  Clark,  in  II.M.S.  Sappho.  We  cull  the  following  details  of 
geographical  and  ethnological  interest  from  the  Report  *  which  this  officer 
has  addressed  to  Admiral  Lyons  on  the  subject :— The  Sappho  sighted  the 
island  on  the  17th  day  from  Coquimbo,  and  anchored  on  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  in  Cook  Bay.  On  passing  the  village  of  Malavoii,  the  English 
flag  was  seen  hoisted  on  a  lofty  flagstafl",  and  shortly  after  landing,  the 
vessel  was  boarded  by  Mr.  Alexander  Salmon,  the  agent  of  the  "  Maison 
Brander  "of  Tahiti,  who  now  owns  the  greater  part  of  the  island ;  from 
him,  during  the  two  days'  stay  of  the  vessel,  Commander  Clark  obtained 
the  information  he  had  to  give  regarding  the  island,  information  the 
more  valuable  inasmuch  as  Mr.  Salmon  is  a  perfect  master  of  the  native 
*  Communioated  to  the  B.  G.  S.  by  direction  of  the  Admiralty. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  41 

^'^S^ic^e*    The  MaiBon  Brandor  four  years  ago  purohased  the  property 
of  the  missionaries  on  the  island,  who  then  left  for  the  Gambler  Archi- 
pelago, taking  abont  SOO  of  the  natives  with  them.    A  large  grazing 
farm  was  thereupon  established,  and  there  are  now  about  10,000  sheep  and 
400  head  of  cattle  on  the  island ;  the  flocks  increasing  very  rapidly  as 
there  are  two  and  sometimes  three  lambing  seasons  in  the  year.     With 
the  present  number  of  sheep  Mr.  Salmon  gets  about  18  tons  of  wool  per 
annum.    There  are  enormous  numbers  of  poultry  in  the  island  in  a  semi- 
wild  state,  but  all  owned  by  the  natives ;  in  fact  a  fleet  could  easily  bo 
sapplied  with  fresh  provisions,  except  vegetables ;  but  as  yams,  sweet 
potatoes,  bananas,  and  plantains  grow  readily,  they  also  could  bo 
sapplied  in  time.    Water  is  the  only  scarce  article.    The  natives  now 
remaining  are  only  150  in  number,  and  they  are  rather  decreasing  than 
increasing.    About  500  were  shipped  to  Tahiti  some  eight  years  ago  to 
work  on  the  plantations  of  the  Maison  Brander,  besides  the  300  removed 
fay  the  missionaries.    Among  these  remaining  people  there  are  no  traces 
of  the  missionaries*  work ;   they  have  no  religion  at  all,  are  expert 
thieves,  and  very  revengeful ;  thoy  never  forgot  or  forgive,  although  in 
general  good-tempered.     They  are  divided  into  several  small  clans, 
amongst  which  strength  or  personal  courage  is  the  only  claim  to 
nperiority,  and  their  diief  quarrels  arise  over  the  efforts  of  each  clan  to 
secure  the  first  eggs  of  the  "  wide-awake  "  every  year  from  Needle  rock, 
to  which  they  attach  a  superstitious  value.    As  there  is  a  heavy  surf  at 
the  bottom  of  the  cliflfe  opposite  the  rock,  several  lives  are  lost  nearly 
every  year  while  they  are  seeking  for  the  eggs.    The  result  of  Mr. 
Salmon  s  repeated  talks  with  the  natives  on  the  subject  of  their  first 
•nival  on  the  island  is  to  find  that  they  all  say  they  originally  landed  on 
the  north  side  at  Anakena,  and  came  from  the  east  in  two  canoes,  provi- 
sioned with  yams,  taro,  and  sweet  potatoes,  the  king  (by  name  Hotomctva, 
or  the  "  Prolific  Father  ")  in  one  canoe,  the  queen  in  the  other.    On 
making  the  land  they  separated,  passing  round  in  opposite  directions 
and  meeting  again  at  Anakena,  whore  they  landed  and  settled  on  Mount 
Topazo,  of  which  the  native  name  is  Hoto-iti.     They  there  built  the 
atone  houses,  the  remains  of  which  still  exist,  and  made  the  statues  with 
which  the  hill  is  covered ;  but  the  first  statue  was  not  made  till  some 
fifty  years  after  they  landed.     Tho  natives  say  the  original- name  of  the 
island  was  not  Hapanui  but  Te-pito-fcnva,  i.  e.  tho  land  in  tho  middle  of 
the  sea.    Commander  Clark  was  much  struck  with  the  evident  fertility 
of  tho  soil.     If  it  was  only  cultivated  ho  believed  it  would  produce 
magnificent  crops,  and  it  seemed  to  him  especially  adapted  for  the 
culture  of  vines.    The  extinct  volcano  of  Te  Kama  Kao  on  the  south- 
west comer  of  the  island  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.    The  bottom  of  the 
crater  is  not  level  as  described  by  a  former  visitor,  on  the  contrary  there 
is  no  bottom  at  50  fathoms  in  the  centre,  but  there  is  a  carpet  of  decayed 
vegetation  spread  over  the  water  on  which  one  can  cross  from  side  to 
side. 


(    42    ) 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING   MEETINGS,  SESSION 


Second 


-The  Right  Hon.  Lord 


tny,  27 Ih  November,  1882 

President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections.— Tr»?7<rtm  Jotit^h  cCEn^es  Andrew,  E»q.;  F,  IT.  !>' 
Geotf^  W.  Jlrarkmrldgc,  Efn/.;  WilUam  Francis  Brid^rs,  E»q.;  AH" 
Edimvd  F.  Cliftim,  Esq.;  Gerald  Culhbert,  Emi.j  Edward  Camd^ 
Vol  George  Be  Free;  WiUi'am  Ford  Eivings,  Esq.;  lieo.  Charh 
S*imud  Eoheri    Groom,    Esq.;    Alfred  Edwin    Harris,   Esq. . 
Harrison,  Esq.;    Tfiomas  Peraj  Heame,  Esq.;  William  B, 
Kef/e,  Esq.;  Lotiiji  Boi  de  Lamarre,  Esq.;  Frank  Litpton,  K 
Forliea  Macdouald,  Esq.;  Gilbert  John  McCaul,  Esq.;  John  /' 
Mansell^  Est/.;  Arthur  J.  Marshall,  Esq.;  Sir  James  Mars' 
Arthur  Oahes,Esq.,  M.D. ;  Bev.  Charks  Marty n  Reed}  H.  B*> 
David  Boss,  Esq.,  c.i.v.. ;  Juan  Domingo  St,  George  Savinou. 
Esq. ;  Bev.  Jlcnry  Felham   Stokes ;  George  Stronad^    f 
Sutton;  Bev.  E.  F.  Taylor ;  S.  Nugent  Townthend,  Esq 
Esq. ;  John  Tuck,  Esq.,  M.D. ;  Charles  William  White,  i,  j 

The  followiug  were  the  auhjects  of  the  evening  :—        ^ 

1,  "  M.  P.  JL  Lessjir's  Socond  Journey  in  the  Tur;      • 
Ghurian,  near  Herat,"     (Translated  ami  nhriil;:ied  ff 
Gdoa  news])aper  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  read  by  Jlr. 

2.  "  Retnarka  on  M.  Lessar's  Survey."    By  Ma' 

K.C.B. 

For  both  i>apera  and  the  discussion,  vide  anU[) 


■-■*  Obmiu,  ott 


j> 


Third  Meetingy  llth  December^  1882.— G««'' 
K.C.M.O.,  Vice-Presiili 

VA,ZCTiOT:i«,— Major- General  Bichard    / 
Bicfutrd  Eve,  Esq. ;  Dr.  J.  J.  Iximprey; 

Proviuus  to  tlic   reading  of  tlie   |  < 
aununticed  that  tlie  Council  had  insKl 
Thomson  would  leave  Euf^land  in  a  U'^\ 
ttiroua  course  of  travel  in  Central  Afrn 
awaro  of  the  courage,  energy,  and  al- 
rosix>nKiliility  that  devolved   upn 
cx{)ediiion,  the  late  eminent  gc 
again    Iw   ready   to  embark  upon   u  ■ .  ■ 
extensive   and   more    novel,   and    fru   - 
matter  in  which  they  could  cn- 
be  doing  justice   either  to   tho 
he   were  not  to  take   thin  oppiir 
which    his   ooumgo    and    • 
brin^;   hlin   back  io 


H«i  lad  Un 
to^nw  Irbb  dan 

ttlOmHav  h  ^bMt 

fc  tenUon  tf  iQiBil^  I,  ^ 

^  li  attain  Ibe  d^nd  «l.~ 

tkaAnooaJ  RipartvteiiW 

progrea  of  IW  ^ 
>^bW  of  memfam  fa 
-        -*.'  ''X    Thb  li 

^'ijid  into  effect  palaDf. 
-"*.  ■•I>»^y  rooi]5Mii»id,  ndv  tb« 
^•^^wcccedwd  the  tMbi  Dte»i 
^■•' J"*^  ^  review  the  more  impcrtsnt 
-•^■Aown  the  Prwideut  oomplinMnted 
•^fc^  Wi  faJBIlftl  his  dntieu  for  •> hub* 
-^^^r^wrterijr  B^din  of  Iho  S^k-ty. 
•^  W^tarty  tOMMlDaed,  on  «  The  Jf  tmu- 
r*«  »  tMndou";  which  oonaisted  of  a 
In  rnnojinoe  of  a  minion  riiii 
iulinetJuB.    Tlje  niiwon  had  leca 
AMviam  of  New  York,  M.  Pierre 
►  m  w«ll  M  In  Ontrai  America,  of 
'  -  \  Ac,  ailoulatwl  u>  tl.ruirj 
df  iU»tioo.    M.  Chaniai  ^_ 
■I  «Qe  and  the  nme  origin,  and  that 
!*•  Tblteo  trihe  aji  a  tyjxj  of  all  the 
'  laindtd  Iksieo  nd  a  iivt 
^^KtaHMlkemuriek    n«  farfiercB  that  tl 
a  tia  indoKiT,  in  tru,  aod 
that  be  Im  cssmtonl 


erica,  of      , 
the  J 


inicnts  consist  of  eiglitceu 

.miounted  by  fragments  of 

y  Ake  is  a  most  interesting 

ivo  style  of  couKtruction  of  the 

^d  as  the  "  cement "  epoch,  ftn«l 

M    Chichenitza,  on  the  contrvy, 

n  stone.     Chichenit/a  was  the  first 

into  the  iwninsula  in  1;')27,  and  was 

J  term  "  centre  "  being  more  accurate 

.>vellings  and  palaces  in  Yucatan  have 

ierstand  it;  they  are  composeil  generally 

iia,  temples,  and  public  buildinc;^  scattered 

-.L-c,  with  cabins  of  servants  and  slaves  in  the 

..0  in  the  place  is  that  called  "Palace  of  the 

iias  a  richly  sculptured  fa9ade,  carved  from  top 

asket.    The  door  is  of  grand  arcliitectural  effect. 

-ive  terraces  and  have  outside  staircases.    1'here  is 

other  buildings,  and  the  "  tennis  court "  elaborately 

^vith  bas-reliefs.    After  leaving  Yucatan,  M.  Charnay 

>>{  the  Lacandons.    He  had  heard  from  the  mahogany- 

L  iiucient  towns  in  the  forest,  which  they  came  upon  in  the 

\;indering8.     Arrived  at  the  locality  of  one  of  these  ancient 

...iiued  "Lorillard.City  "  in  honour  of  the  generous  American 

.  his  expedition,  M.  Charnay  found  there  a  young  Englishman 

-<i  at  the  ruins,  Mr.   Alfred  Maudslay.     This  gentleman  was 

arist,  not  aa  an  archaeologist,  and  was  willing  to  leave  to  M.  Charnay 

-ji  of  die  discoveiy;  but  the  latter  would  not  accept  the  generous 

lers  to  share  with  Mr.  Maudslay  the  glory  of  having  explored  these 

ill  wonderful  remains  of  old  Indian  architecture.    The  site  of  the  to^vn 

:t  17°  N.  lat,  on  the  left  .bank  of  the  Usumaointa,  on  the  boundaries  of 

...iiaand  the  two  Mexican  provinces  Chiapas  and  Tabasco.    The  numerous 

v^,   temples,  ind  palaces  in  mins  here  found  resemble  much  those  which 

I.  i::irnay  had  fonnerly  discovered  at  Falenque.    There  is  great  resemblance 


44  PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

ruins,  Angkor  being  the  centre;  the  region  extending  over  a  conside:able  space.— It 
was  announced  that  the  Society  had  received  news  from  Dr.  Bayol,  who  arrived  at 
St.  Louis  (Senegal)  on  Slst  October,  and  who  immediately  organised  his  caravan, 
composed  of  twenty-two  natives.  It  was  expected  that  he  would  start  for  the 
interior  about  the  15th  November.  M.  Desbordes  was  on  his  way  to  the  Kayes  dis- 
trict, where  he  will  organise  the  expeditionary  column  charged  with  the  establish- 
ment of  a  post  at  Bamaku  near  the  Niger.  The  cliief  Samory  was  said  to  be 
again  preparing  to  harass  the  French.  At  Cayor  the  state  of  things  remained  the 
same;  the  Darnel  will  not  have  a  railway  constructed  on  his  territory,  and  is 
believed  to  be  ready  to  oppose  it  by  all  the  means  in  his  power,  and  if  defcateil,  Avill 
bum  all  the  villages  in  his  retreat  and  cut  off  the  French  communications  with  the 
coast. — The  meeting  terminated  by  the  reading  of  a  i)aper  by  M.  Victor  Cludrin,  on 
the  expedition  of  which  he  had  lately  charge  in  Egypt  and  the  Lebanon. 

Second  General  Meeting,  December  loth :  M.  Ferdinakd  de  Lessbps 

in  the  Chair. — The  meeting  was  held  in  the  large  hall  of  the  Sorbonne.  In 
opening  the  business,  M.  de  Lesseps  delivered  a  brief  address,  in  which  ho  dwelt 
particularly  on  thef  greatly  increased  interest  in  geography  which  had  been 
manifested  of  late  years  in  France,  an  interest  which  continues  to  grow  from  day 
to  day,  and  which  being  founded  on  public  opinion  imposes  new  duties  on  the 
Society.  Ho  said  the  Society  must  follow  the  current  and  conform  to  the  wishes  of 
the  majority.  One  of  the  first  tasks  it  must  undertake  is  to  reconstitute  the  *'  Fonds 
dcs  Voyages,"  a  fund  which  was  exhausted  in  1875,  since  which  time  the  Society 
has  not  been  able  to  give  material  aid  to  geographical  explorations  in  dbtant 
countries.  The  restoration  of  the  fund  will  perhaps  be  difficult,  the  resources  of  the 
Society  being  limited,  but  he  was  one  of  those  whom  difficulties  attracted  rather 
than  discouraged.  In  conclusion,  he  announced  his  intention  of  submitting  to  the 
Council  a  plan  by  which  he  hop«i  they  would  be  able  to  attain  the  desired  end, — 
The  General  Secretary,  M.  Chas.  Maunoir,  then  read  the  Annual  Report  which  he 
had  prepared,  on  the  labours  of  the  Society  and  the  progress  of  the  geographical 
sciences  during  the  past  year.  He  said  that  the  number  of  members  is  continually 
increasing,  and  that  at  the  end  of  1882  it  had  reached  2250.  This  increase  would 
necessitate  various  ameliorations  which  would  be  carried  into  effect  gradually. 
Already  the  library  (books  and  maps)  has  been  completely  reorganised,  under  the 
direction  of  the  new  librarian,  M.  J.  Jackson,  who  has  succeeded  the  Abb^  Durand. 
In  the  second  part  of  his  report  M.  Maunoir  passed  in  review  the  more  important 
geographical  events  of  the  year,  and  on  its  conclusion  the  President  complimented 
him  on  the  zeal  and  thoroughness  with  which  he  had  fulfilled  his  duties  for  so  many 
years.  The  Keport  was  ordered  to  be  printed  in  the  quarterly  BtiUetin  of  the  Society. 
— M.  Desird  Chamay  then  read  his  paper,  previously  announced,  on  "  The  Monu- 
ments of  Yucatan  and  the  country  of  the  Lacandons  ** ;  which  consisted  of  a 
narrative  of  the  voyage  he  made  in  Central  America  in  pursuance  of  a  mission  with 
which  he  was  charged  by  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction.  The  mission  had  been 
also  supported  by  the  contributions  of  a  rich  American  of  New  York,  M.  Pierre 
Lorillard.  It  had  for  object  the  study,  in  Mexico  as  well  as  in  Central  America,  of 
all  the  remains  of  temples,  palaces,  vases,  inscriptions,  &c.,  calculated  to  throw  light 
upon  the  age  and  origin  of  the  indigenous  American  civilisation.  M.  Chamay  gave 
it  as  his  opinion  that  these  civilisations  had  all  one  and  the  same  origin,  and  that 
they  are  offiBhoots  of  the  Toltec,  for  he  considers  the  Toltec  tribe  as  a  type  of  all  the 
tribes  of  the  same  race  and  same  language  which  invaded  Mexico  and  a  part  of 
Central  America  from  the  seventh  to  the  fourteenth  centuries.  He  believes  that  the 
civilisation  of  Mexico  was  chiefly  Toltec,  especially  in  its  industry,  its  arts,  and  in 
the  decorative  part  of  its  monuments.    The  monuments  that  he  has  examined  in 


PROCEEDINGS  OK  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  45 

Centnd  America  are  derived  from  the  same  source ;  but  he  (M.  Gharnay)  is  far  from 
attribuimg  to  them  the  antiquity  that  some  travellers  have  assigned  to  them,  viz. 
of  200O  to  3000  and  even  10«000  years,  and  believes  them,  at  least  those  of  Yucatan, 
to  be  no  older  than  the  commencement  or  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century.  M.  Chamay 
exhibited  to  the  Meeting  photographs  of  the  ruins  projected  on  a  screen  ^y  means 
ot  the  oxyhydrogen  light  (on  Molteni*s  system).  He  showed  first  of  all  the  ruins  of 
Ak^,  one  of  the  oldest  places  in  Yucatan,  where  the  monuments  consist  of  eighteen 
to  twenty  ruined  pyramids,  some  of  which  are  still  surmounted  by  fragments  of 
important  snperstructure.  According  to  M.  Chamay,  Ake'  is  a  most  interesting 
place,  inasmuch  as  it  is  there  we  may  see  the  primitive  style  of  construction  of  the 
•acient  inhabitants,  which  the  traveller  has  designated  as  the  *'  cement "  epoch,  and 
which  belongs  to  the  time  when  Palenque  existed.  Chichenitza,  on  the  contrary* 
beloDgB  to  a  more  modem  epoch,  viz.  that  of  hewn  stone.  Chichenitza  was  the  first 
port  occupied  by  the  Spaniards  on  their  entry  into  the  peninsula  in  1527,  and  vrta 
ooe  of  the  important  centres  of  Yucatan,  the  term  **  centre  "  being  more  accurate 
than  that  of  "  town,"  as  the  groups  of  dwellings  and  palaces  in  Yucatan  have 
nothing  in  common  with  a  town  as  we  understand  it ;  they  are  composed  generally 
of  palaces  of  the  prince  and  the  caciques,  temples,  and  public  buildings  scattered 
vidiout  apparent  order  over  a  vast  space,  with  cabins  of  servants  and  slaves  in  the 
interrala.  The  best  preserved  palace  in  the  place  is  that  called  "  Palace  of  the 
Nuns  * ;  it  is  of  three  storeys,  and  has  a  richly  sculptured  facade,  carved  from  top 
to  bottom  like  a  Chinese  ivory  casket.  The  door  is  of  grand  architectural  effect 
The  paJaoes  are  ranged  on  massive  terraces  and  have  outside  staircases.  There  is 
beudea  a  so-called  castle  and  other  buildings,  and  the  **  tennis  court  **  elaborately 
ornate,  with  pillars  carved  with  bas-reliefs.  After  leaving  Yucatan,  M.  Chamay 
proceeded  to  the  country  of  the  Lacandons.  He  had  heard  from  the  mahogany- 
cutters  of  the  existence  of  ancient  towns  in  the  forest,  which  they  came  upon  in  the 
eoar«e  of  their  distant  wanderings.  Arrived  at  the  locality  of  one  of  these  ancient 
dties,  which  he  has  named  **  Lorillard-City  "  in  honour  of  the  generous  American 
who  has  supported  his  expedition,  M.  Chamay  found  there  a  young  Englishman 
already  established  at  the  mins,  Mr.  Alfred  Maudslay.  This  gentleman  was 
traveling  as  a  tourist,  not  as  an  archasolc^ist,  and  was  willing  to  leave  to  M.  Gharnay 
all  the  honours  of  the  discovery ;  but  the  latter  would  not  accept  the  generous 
offer,  and  prefers  to  share  with  Mr.  Maudslay  the  glory  of  having  explored  these 
extenave  and  wonderful  remains  of  old  Indian  architecture.  The  site  of  the  town 
is  in  about  17°  N.  lat,  on  the  left  .bank  of  the  Usumacinta,  on  the  boundaries  of 
Guatemala  and  the  two  Mexican  provinces  Chiapas  and  Tabasco.  The  numerous 
edifices,  temples,  and  palaces  in  rnins  here  found  resemble  much  those  which 
H.  Chamay  had  formerly  discovered  at  Palenque.  There  is  great  resemblance 
between  the  two  in  the  nature  of  the  materials  employed,  the  arrangement  of  the 
interiors,  and  the  decoration.  Nearly  the  same  characters  are  also  seen  in  the  inscrip- 
tiona  and  bas-reliefs.  In  one  temple  the  omamentation  must  have  been  exceedingly 
rich,  to  judge  by  the  stone  panels  which  seem  to  contain  gigantic  figures.  The  great 
stooe  slabs  of  Palenque  carved  with  inscriptions  and  bas-reliefs  are  not  met  with 
here,  being  replaced  by  lintels  of  doors  which  were  covered  with  superb  sculpture, 
bat  they  are  now  in  such  a  dilapidated  condition  that  little  use  could  be  made  of 
them.    Still  M.  Chamay  collected  several  fine  specimens. 

Oeographioal  Society  of  St  Petersburg.— October  18th,  1882  [second 
Report]  :  M.  P.  Skmekof,  Vice-President,  in  the  Chair. — [In  addition  to  the  brief 
notice  previously  given  of  the  third  address  delivered  by  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  at  this 
meeting,  we  publish  the  following  ampler  details  which  we  find  in  the  steno- 
graphic report  of  the  lecture,  contributed  to  the  newspapers  of  St.  Petersburg  on 


iG 


PROCKEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Novemljer  25th.  The  appeanmoe  of  this  report,  as  well  as  the  next  one,  was 
delayed  by  an  illaeas  of  the  kcfcurer,  who  w»8  luixioui*  to  revise  them  himself 
before  their  publication.] — In  March  1873  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  made  a  short  vinit 
to  the  Phi]ipi)lne  Islands,  in  order  to  settle  a  question  niised  by  Karl  Baer  an  to 
the  bracliycophaly  of  the  Negrito  aborigines  of  the  islandi^.  During  a  live  days* 
stay  at  Manilb,  the  Hussian  traveller  visited  the  Martvcles  mountains,  and  made 
there  several  anthropological  measiirementa.  The  Philippine  Negritos  proved, 
in  fact,  to  be  brachy cephalic,  but  otherwise  very  much  like  the  Papuans  of 
New  Guinea.  In  their  customs,  however,  they  have  much  in  commou  with  tho 
Meknesiana  of  the  South  Pacific. — In  August  1874  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  began  a 
Boriea  of  journeys  in  the  interior  of  the  peninsula  of  Malacca.  He  Rtarted  from 
Jyhore,  accom|iauied  by  thirty  men  ordenxl  for  that  purfiose  by  the  Maharajah  of 
Johore,  and  farryiug  with  him  a  letter  by  which  the  Maharajah  enjoined  his  subjects 
to  help  the  traveller  in  his  undertaking.  In  exchange  for  this  help,  Ihe  Russian 
traveller  was  bound  to  draw  a  map  of  the  dominions  of  the  Maharajah,  He  crossed 
twice  the  Johore  country — from  west  to  east,  and  from  north  to  south.  He  reached, 
first,  the  mouth  of  the  Moar  river,  then  ascended  it  in  a  flat  boat  as  far  as  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Palong,  followed  up  thia  last,  and,  crossing  the  hills  at  it«  source, 
reached  the  China  Sea  at  tho  mouth  of  tho  Endan  river.  Thence  he  proceeded  south 
to  the  Selat-tambrau  Strait,  which  separates  Singapore  island  from  the  mainland, 
tho  whole  journey  occupying  fifty  days.  Travelling  was  very  diilicult.  Tlio  rainy 
season  liad  set  in  ;  the  plains  and  woods  were  inundated,  and  the  party  had  to  walk 
in  water  that  reached  as  high  as  the  knees  and  sometimes  the  breaist.  During  this 
journey,  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  had  lyi  opportunity  of  making  a  close  acquaintance 
with  tlie  "  Forest-men  "  ("  Orang-outangg  •*  in  Malayan  language ;  ontng  signifying 
"  men,"  and  outawj  the  foresbi ;  the  Malayans  say :  omng  hukit  for  *'  men  of  the 
hills,"  ortntg-hid  for  '*men  of  the  sea-coast,"  and  so  on).  They  are  a  very  primitive 
tribe,  leading  a  wandering  life  in  the  woods.  They  are  a  mixed  race,  arising  from 
tho  crossing  of  Papuans  with  Malaya  and  partly  with  Melanei^iaus,  who  have  been 
driven  from  the  sea-coast  into  the  forests  of  the  interior  by  the  Malays  and  Chinese. — 
A  severe  fever  contracted  by  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  during  tliis  journey  intluce^i  him 
to  take  advantage  of  tho  invitation  of  Sir  Andrew  Clarke,  Govenior  of  Singapore, 
and  to  embark  with  him  for  liaufikok.  At  Bangkok  he  was  fortunate  in  getting  a 
letter  from  the  king  to  his  vassal  sabjecL«4  in  tho  peninsula  of  Malacca,  recom- 
menJing  lliera  to  assist  the  Russian  traveller  during  his  further  journeys  in  tho 
]x;uinsula.  With  this  jjowerful  recommendation,  he  imdertook  a  most  adventunnja 
journey,  on  foot,  from  Johore  to  Hiam.  Ue  had  to  encounter  great  distni-st  on  tlio 
part  of  the  small  rulers  of  the  peninsula;  but  ejich  of  tliera  being  anxious  to 
aend  away  the  white  traveller  as  sooa  as  possible  to  the  dominions  of  the  next  ruler, 
M.  Miklukho-Maclay  succeeded  in  his  undertaking,  and  reached  Siam  after  a  17G 
days'  journey.  The  ethnograpbical  results  of  this  moat  interesting  exploration 
(which  enabled  him  finally  to  make  close  acquaintance  with  pure  representatives  of 
the  Melauesiau  mce  in  the  Orang-aakays,  who  inhabit  the  mountains  at  the  sources 
of  tho  Pashan  river)  were  published,  in  German,  in  the  scientific  periodicals  of  Java, 
and  Iranalated  into  English  in  the  'Journal  of  tho  Straits  Branch  of  the  Asiatic 
Society '  for  187ii  sind  1879. 

"  October  20th :  M.  P.  Semenof,  Vice-President,  in  the  Chair-— The 
meeting  took  place  again  in  the  lecture-hall  of  the  Solanoy  Gorodok,  for  the  delivery 
of  the  fourth  address  of  M.  Mikhdcbo-Maclay.  The  lecturer  gave  an  account  of  his 
travels  among  the  islands  of  the  Malayan  archipelago,  Micronesin,  and  Melanesia, 
and  of  his  scientific  work  in  Australia.  After  a  short  visit  to  Java,  to  the  Moluccas, 
and  to  the  uoithera  part  of  Celebes  (already  mentioned  in  the  first  address),  he 


I 
I 


a 


d 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  47 

stayed  for  some  time  in  1874  at  Amboyna,  and  on  the  islands  Ceram-Laut.  In  the 
DiUch  oolooies  scattered  over  these  islands,  he  had,  of  course,  much  greater  facilities 
Cor  anthropological  studies  than  in  New  Guinea,  and  was  enabled  to  make  anthro- 
pological collections  and  numerous  photographs  of  great  value,  the  majority  of  which 
are  now  at  Sydney. — ^In  1876  he  visited  several  islands  of  Western  Micronesia,  and 
came  to  the  conclusion  that,  however  much  the  Micronesian  race  may  resemble  the 
PtJyntwJans,  it  is  still  mixed  to  a  great  extent  with  the  Melanesian,  which  mixture 
appears  in  the  structure  of  the  hair,  in  the  colour  of  the  skin,  and  so  on.  On  the 
\  Lnb,  ot  Hermit,  he  found  a  hybrid  race  produced  by  the  crossing  of  Mela^ 
I  with  Micronesians ;  the  next  group  Escheker,  or  Eshikie,  being  inhabited 
.by  pure  Micronesians,  the  boundary-line  of  the  straight-haired  Micronesian  race 
psora  thus  through  this  group. — ^In  1879  he  left  Sydney,  on  board  an  American 
schooner,  and  cruised  for  thirteen  months  among  the  islands  of  Melanesia,  landing 
aft  New  Caledonia,  the  Loyalty  Islands,  the  New  Hebrides,  and  the  Admiralty 
Isbnds  where  he  stayed  for  two  months  on  shore  and  learned  the  language  of  the 
imtiweM,  The  results  of  this  important  cruise  being  too  numerous  to  be  told  in 
the  oourse  of  one  evening  (they  were  published  in  the  *  Isvestia '  of  the  Russian 
Geogr^hical  Society  and  in  the  *  Sitzungsberichte '  of  the  Berlin  Anthropological 
Society  for  1881),  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  mentioned  only  the  most  important  of 
them,  namely,  the  brachycephalism  of  many  inhabitants  of  the  Melanesian  islands 
(New  Hebrides,  Solomon,  Louisiades,  and  several  others).  It  was  proved  by 
Bnmeroos  measurements. — Beturned  to  Australia,  M.  Miklukho-Maclay  landed  first 
St  Somerset,  then  followed  the  eastern  coast,  and  made  some  excursions  in  the 
iBicnor  of  the  mainland,  in  order  to  study  the  natives  in  their  natural  state,  and 
thus  throw  some  light  on  the  much-debated  question  as  to  the  origin  of  the  black 
Ansfacmlian  race.  Without  giving  a  definite  answer  on  this  subject,  the  Bussian 
exi^orer  ia  inclined  to  admit  the  opinion  of  Professor  Huxley,  and  to  consider 
thjwn  as  an  independent  race  8ui  generis,  which  is  neither  Papuan  nor  Polynesian. 
The  lecturer  mentioned  then  his  interesting  studies  of  the  comparative  anatomy  of 
the  brains  of  Australians,  Malayans,  Melanesians,  and  Mongolians — for  which 
studies  he  had  many  opportunities  at  Brisbane  and  Sydney  —  as  well  as  his 
researches  into  the  comparative  anatomy  of  the  brains  of  marsupials,  and  his 
mccessful  endeavours  to  open  a  biological  station  at  Sydney,  with  the  help  of  the 
T,inn<«in  Society  of  New  South  Wales  and  of  the  Government.  He  concluded  by 
expressing  thanks  to  all  those  persons  and  institutions  who  hml  assisted  him  and 
enabled  him  to  fulfil  to  a  certain  extent  the  task  he  had  undertaken.— The  Cbaurnan 
expressed  the  thanks  of  the  Geographical  Society  and  of  all  persons  present  for  the 
interesting  addresses  they  had  heard,  and  for  the  explanations  given  by  the  lecturer 
during  the  morning  conversazioni.  The  Bussian  Society  would  always  be  grateful 
to  the  traveller  for  his  bold  and  persevering  efforts. — The  scientific  results  of  these 
lemarkable  travels  will  be  published  in  Bussian,  the  Emperor  having  granted  for 
that  purpose  the  sum  of  22002. 

Geographical  Society  of  Stockholm.— October  20th,  1882 :  Professor  Ado. 
Fbucs,  President,  in  the  Chair. — The  President  stated,  that  in  consequence  of  Dr. 
Stuxberg's  removal  to  Gothenburg,  E.  W.  Dahlgren,  Esq.  (of  the  Kongl.  Biblioteket, 
Stockholm),  had  been  appointed  Secretary  pro  tern.  He  also  announced  the 
receipt  of  a  collection  of  ethnographical  and  natural  history  objects  from  Consul 
W.  Kopsen  in  the  Fijis,  and  concluded  by  welcoming  among  his  confrhres  the 
English  member,  Mr.  John  Evans,  f.b.8.,  who  >vaa  present. — Dr.  Montelius  then 
^ve  an  aoooimt  of  a  visit  he  had  made  this  summer  to  study  the  archeology  of 
Great  Britain.  He  had  visited  the  British  and  South  Kensington  Museums,  Mr. 
John  Evans*  collection  at  Nash  Mills,  Mr.  Grenvell's  in  Durham,  and  the  museums 


48  KEW  BOOKS. 

at  York,  Salisbury,  Oxford,  Edinburgh,  and  Dublin ;  and  photos  of  a  largo  number 
of  int«re8ting  objects  in  these  places  were  shpAvn  by  the  speaker.  He  considered 
the  bronze  age  of  the  British  Isles  of  great  importance,  and  bespoke  a  hig^  d^reo 
of  culture,  while  nearly  all  the  objects  were,  from  their  appearance,  made  in  the 
country.  This  &ct  refuted  the  theory  advanced  by  many  scientists,  that  these 
objects  were  brought  from  South  Europe  to  the  Northern  countries,  including 
Scandinavia.  He  also  pointed  out  the  remarkable  circumstance,  that  hardly  any 
bronze  objects  found  in  Great  Britain  were  of  Scandinavian  origin,  which  was  still 
further  at  variance  with  the  above  theory,  while  also  showing  that  little  intercourse 
existed  at  that  period  (about  1000  years  b.c.)  between  the  two  nations,  and  there 
was  only  a  single  object  in  existence  which  could  with  certainty  be  said  to  have 
been  brought  from  England  to  Scandinavia  in  that  age,  viz.  a  gold  ornament  found 
in  Seeland.  But  from  the  Viking  era  there  were  many  proofs  of  frequent  intercourse, 
and  the  Scandinavian  art  of  ornamentation  of  this  period  was  greatly  influenced 
thereby,  which  drcumstanoe  became  of  far  greater  importance,  when  Professor 
Sophus  Bugge's  opinion,  that  the  Northern  mythology  was  of  Irish  origin,  was 
borne  in  mind.  The  speaker  considered  that  Stonehenge  was  raised  for  the  worship 
of  the  sun.  He  concluded  by  referring  to  the  hive-shaped  cairns  in  Ireland,  Scot- 
land, and  the  Orkneys,  in  which  latter  place  he  had  seen  one  which  had  been 
plundered  by  Vikings,  the  walls  being  covered  by  their  Runic  inscriptions.— Pro- 
fessor H.  Hildebrand  next  read  a  paper  on  the  development  and  ornamentation  of 
early  forms  of  culture. — Captain  N.  Selander,  in  conclusion,  exhibited  a  map  of 
Sweden  drawn  by  him,  and  now  being  published ;  scale  1 :  500,000,  which  is  of 
special  importance,  as  being  the  first  map  fixing  correctly  the  position  of  the 
Island  of  Gotland  in  the  Baltic,  in  relation  to  the  Swedish  coast,  as  by  Mr.  Hell- 
Strom's  map,  made  in  1832,  from  which  all  subsequent  on^  had  been  drawn,  it  was 
laid  160,000  feet  too  far  from  the  coast,  a  circumstance  discovered  last  year  by 
triangular  measurements. 


NEW  BOOKS. 

(By  E.  0.  Rye,  Librarian  R.G.S.) 

EUBOPE. 


Leclercq,  Jules.— La  Terre  de  Glace.  Fdroe,  Islande,  Lcs  Geysers,  Le  Mont  Hdkla. 
Paris  (Plon) ;  1883, 12mo.,  pp.  320,  map,  illustrations.  (  Williams  <t  Norgute  ; 
price  3«.  G</.)^ 

The  maps  are  from  our  *  Proceedings,'  and  the  illustrations  from  photographs 
brought  from  Iceland  by  the  author,  whose  little  work  is  above  the  average  of 
its  series. 

Biitimeyer,  L. — Die  Bretagne.  Schilderungen  aus  Natur  und  Volk.  Basel,  &o. 
(Georg) :  1883, 12mo.,  pp.  153.    {miliams  &  Norgate :  price  3«.) 

Schweiger-Lerohenfeld,  Amand  von.— Griechenland  in  Wort  and  Bild.  Eine 
Schilderung  des  Hellenischen  Kiinigreiches.  Leipzig  (Schmidt  und  GUnther): 
1882,  large  4to.,  pp.  xiv.  and  224,  200  illustrations.  (Williams  &  Norgate: 
price  21.) 

To  be  noticed  solely  for  its  illustrations,  many  of  which  give  excellent 
representations  of  physical  couditiouB. 


NEW  BOOKS.  49 

Sihweifer-Lerolienfeld,  Amand  von.— Die  Adria.  Land-  tmd  See-fahrten  im 
Bereiche  des  Adriatischen  Meeres.  Wien,  Pest,  Leipzig  (Hartlebon) :  1883,  8vo., 
pp.  792,  map,  plans,  illustrations.    (WiUiams  &  Norgaie :  price  13».  6d.) 

The  complete  work  is  now  issued,  and  gives  a  well  illustrated  account  of 
the  geographical  and  general  features  of  the  lands  bordering  on  the  Adriatic. 
The  map  is  by  Gustav  Freytag  (scale  1 : 1,500,000)  and  contains,  besides  the 
Adriatic  coasts  of  Italy,  Istria,  Croatia,  Dalmatia,  the  Herzegdvina,  Monten^ro, 
and  Albania,  insets  of  the  Bocche  di  Gattaro  (scale  1 :  160,000)  and  of  the 
Venico  Lagoons  (scale  1 :  300,000). 

linot,  Victor.— La  Hongrie,  de  I'Adriatique  au  Danube.  Impressions  de  Voyage. 
Paris  (Plon):  1883,  4to.,  pp.  412,  map,  plates,  &c.  (WiUianu  &  Norgate: 
price  17s.) 

Chiefly  to  be  noticed  for  the  number  of  its  illustrations,  some'  of  which 
render  the  aspects  of  the  country  well. 

ASIA. 
Butiailt  A. — Volkerstamme  am  Brahmaputra  and  verwandtschaftliche  Nachbam. 
Beis^Ergebnisse  und  Studion.    Berlin  (Diimmler*s  Vcrlagsbuchhandlung) :  1883, 
Bva,  pp.  Ixix.  and  130.    Plates.    [No  Index.]    {WiUiama  &  Norgaie:  price  6s.) 
Almost  entirely  of  ethnographical  interest. 

Haeekel,  Ernst— Indische  Reisebriefe.  Berlin  (Paetel) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xi.  and 
355.     [No  Index.]    {WiJliama  &  Norgate :  Toxica  IQi,) 

The  well-known  Jena  naturalist  hero  describes  his  experiences  in  Ceylon, 
with  some  introductory  and  concluding  observations  on  the  journey  to  and  return 
from  that  island.  Zoological  and  Iwtamcal  points  of  course  receive  special 
attention  from  him. 

AMERICA. 
De  BobiaxLO  [Le  Gointe]  Eugene.— Chili.    Le  Chili,  L'Araucanie,  Lo  ddtroit  do 
Magellan,  et  retour  par  le  S<Sn6gal.  Paris  (Plon) :  1882, 12mo.,  pp.  267.  (IKiKkims 
<fe  Norgate  :  imce  2s.  Qd.) 

Forms  a  sequel  to  the  same  author's  work  "  Dlx-huit  mois  dans  I'Amdriquo 
dtt  Sud."    Of  no  geographical  interest. 

Hndflon,  T.  S.— A  Scamper  through  America,  or  Fifteen  thousand  miles  of  Ocean 
and  Continent  in  Sixty  days.  London  (Griffith  &  Farran:  1882,  cr.  8vo., 
pp.  xxiL  and  289,  map. 

Very  brief  notes  of  the  usual  trans-continontal  route  to  San  Francisco,  thence 
south  to  Los  Angeles,  across  Arizona  to  New  Mexico,  and  from  Sta.  F6  via 
Kaussls  City  and  Chicago  through  Canada. 

Zoller,  HugfO.— Der  Panama-Kanal.  Stuttgart  (Spemann):  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  48, 
woodcuts.    (TTiKwTns  &  Norgaie:  price  2s.) 

A  general  account  of  the  Isthmus  in  the  region  of  the  projected  canal, 
apparently  from  personal  observation. 

GENERAL. 
Baitian,  A. — Inselgmppen  in  Oceanien.    Reiseergebnisae  und  Studien.    Beriin 
(Dummler's  Vcrlagsbuchhandlung):    1882,    8vo.,    pp.  xxii.    and    282,  plates. 
IWiUiams  <fc  Norgate:  price  7«.  6d) 

The  author  discusses  (from  an  ethnographical  point  of  view)  Tahiti  and 
neighbouring  isles,  Tonga,  Samoa,  Fiji,  with  Melanesia  and  Micronesia,  Australia, 
New  Zealand,  and  Hawaii.    The  store  of  material  contained  in  this  closely 
{tinted  volume  is  practically  rendered  useless  from  the  want  of  an  Index. 
No.  L— Jan.  1883.]  e 


50  NEW  BOOKS. 

Catalogue  of  the  Tork  Oate  Oeographioal  and  Colonial  Librarjb— 
London  (Murray) :  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  iii.  and  134.    Price  10s.  6d. 

At  first  printed  only  for  private  circulation,  this  catalogue  of  geographical 
books  and  papers  in  the  library  of  Mr.  8.  W.  Silver  has  now  been  published,  in 
deference  to  the  opinion  that  its  contents  and  arrangement  could  scarcely  fail 
to  be  of  use  to  students  in  general  for  referential  purposes.  Mr.  Silver,  in  tho 
preface,  acknowledges  the  assistance  of  Mr.  E.  A.  Petherick,  whose  acquaintance 
with  the  literature  of  the  British  Colonies  (the  primary  object  of  the  Catalogue) 
is  perhaps  unrivalled ;  and  it  is  by  this  gentleman  that  the  two  valuable  Indices 
have  been  compiled,  one  of  countries  and  subjects,  the  other  of  authors'  names. 
I'he  Catalogue  itself  is  divided  into  two  sections,  one  General,  the  other  Colonial : 
these  are  again  divided  by  subjects,  and  the  separate  entries  arranged  in  order 
of  date  of  publication.  A  remarkably  useful  feature  in  this  catalogue  is  that  it 
gives  separately  the  contents  of  miscellaneous  collections,  such  as  the  Voyages 
of  Hakluyt,  Purchas,  Churchill,  Bumey,  &c.,  our  'Journals'  and  'Pro- 
ceedings,' &C. 

Eelene,  Moxime.— Les  Travaux  Publics  au  XIX*  Si^le.  Les  Nouvelles  Routes 
du  Globe.  Canaux  isthmiques  et  Routes  Souterraines.  Paris  (Masson) :  [n.  d.] 
largo  Svo.,  pp.  viii.  and  318,  maps,  plans, and  illustrations.  [No  Index.]  (Dulau: 
price  8«.) 

This  volume  (which  forms  part  of  the  "  Bibliothfeque  de  la  Nature,*  published 
under  the  direction  of  Gaston  Tissandier)  is  accom{>anied  by  a  letter  from 
M.  F.  de  Lesseps,  and  discusses  ancient  and  modern  routes  (actual  and  projected) 
generally,  and  the  sea  canals  of  Suez,  Panama,  Corinth,  Malacca,  Amsterdam, 
and  Gabte  in  detail ;  subterranean  roads  in  general,  and  the  tunnels  of  St. 
Gothard,  Arlberg,  Mont  Ceais,  and  Pas-de-Calais  in  pauiicular,  concluding  wiUi 
observations  on  the  great  Alpine  passes,  electric  cables,  &c. 
Lock,  Alfred  G.— Gold:  its  Occurrence  and  Extraction.    Embracing  tho  geo- 
graphical and  geological  distribution  and  the  mineralogical  characters  of  gold- 
bearing  rocks.  . . ,  a  Bibliography  of  tho  subject,  &c.    London  (E.  &  F.  N.  Spon) : 
1882,  large  8vo.,  pp.  xxi.  and  1229,  maps,  illustrations.    Price  21. 12«.  6c?. 

Tho  author  has  devoted  745  pages  to  the  geographical  aspects  of  his  subject, 
discussing  separately  the  topography,  &c.,  of  the  localities  in  Africa  (3  sub- 
divisions). North  America  (9),  South  America  (14),  Asia  (24),  Austrahsia  (10), 
and  Euroije  (14),  in  which  gold  is  known  to  occur.  These  Jocalities  are  shown 
on  six  double-page  majw,  and  thirteen  smaller  sketch-maps  of  gold-fields  in 
various  parts  of  the  world  are  also  given  among  the  technical  illustrations.  The 
Bibliography  of  books  and  maps  occupies  pp.  1153-1185,  and  the  Index  is  sub- 
divided under  geographical  and  general  headings, 

Lundgren,  W.  T.— Hamn-Lexikon.  Stockholm  (Skoglund):  [n.  d.]  8vo.,  pp. 
xxxviii.  and  625. 

Mr.  W.  T.  Lundgren,  (unpaid)  British  Vice-Consul  at  Stromstad,  has 
forwarded  to  tho  Society  (through  Sir  Horace  Rumbold)  a  copy  of  this  Harbour 
Dictionary,  which  he  trusts  will  be  found  of  utility  to  the  commercial  and 
nautical  population  of  Great  Britain.  The  title,  preface,  explanations  of 
abbreviations,  and  names  of  places,  are  given  in  Swedish,  German,  French,  and 
English,  so  that  the  body  (»f  the  work  is  easily  intelligible,  the  positions  being 
from  Greenwich.  It  consists  of  over  13,600  names  of  harbours,  alphabetically 
arranged,  with  their  situations,  and  followed  by  a  colunmar  arrangement  of 
figures  and  symbols  showing  (where  known)  tho  depth  of  water  at  spring-  and 
neap-tides,  its  general  character  and  that  of  its  entrance,  harbour  dues,  pilotage, 
towage,  and  other  charges,  cai>abilities  for  Bui)ply  and  repairs,  import  and 
export,  latitude  and  longitude. 

Sclineider,  [Dr.]  Panlus.— Die  Siedelungen  an  Mecrbuson  in  ihrer  Abhangigkeit 
von  den  geographischen  Bodingungcn.  Hallo  (Nicmeyer) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  68. 
(Williams  &  Norgate  :  price  1«.  Gil.) 

A  sketch  of  tho  physicid  reasons  influencing  man  in  founding  scttlomcnts 
in  bays. 


(    51     ) 

KEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  OoIes,  Map  Cwraior  R.a.8.) 

WORLD. 
Sa^hailS,  Dr.  H. — Chart  of  tho  World  on  Mercator's  projection,  containing  tho 
lines  of  oceanic  mail  steam  communication  and  overland  routes,  the  international 
aerial  and  submarine  tel^raphs,  and  the  principal  tracks  of  sailing  vessels; 
tbowing  some  continental  surface  characteristics,  the  oceanic  currents,  and  im- 
pcMiant  deep  sea  soundings ;  with  32  additional  charts,  plans,  &c  10th  edition. 
8  sheets.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    Price  13«.    {Dtdau.) 

HjMiaph^f^B^  Carte  des  ouragans  des  deux .    Paris,  ChallameL   Price  !«.  (jd, 

EUBOPB. 

Oratichen  Beiohes,  Karte  des .    Herausgegeben  von  der  kartogr.  Ahtheilung 

der  Eonigl.  Preuss.  Laudcs-Aufnahme  1882.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1 '  3  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets :— 145.  Stade.  146.  Hamburg.  147.  Batzeburg.  149. 
Schwcrin.  180.  Hagenow.  213.  Perieberg.  214.  Wittstock.  440.  Qera.  470. 
Sayda.    494.  Wiesenthal.    Price  1«.  Qd.  each  sheet.    {Dulau.) 

IKadflnhofeil,  Earte  der  Umgegend  von .    Scale  1 :  25,000  or  2*9  inches  to 

a  geographical  mile.  Koniglich.  preuss.  Landes-Aufiiahme  1880,  herausgegeben 
1882.    4  sheets.    Beriin,  Schropp.    Price  1«.  6rf.    (Z)«?oa.) 

Bsus-Lothringen,  Ueberaichtskarto  von .     Scale*  1 :  400,000    or  5*5  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.    J.  L.  Algermissen,  McU,  1883.    Price  Is.    {Dulau.) 

Slkircll-Orafeiutadeny  Qemeindo-Karto  von .    Kreis  Erstein  (Unter-Elsass). 

Scale  1  :5000  or  14*5  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  A.  Breitel,  Strassbarg. 
4  sheets.     Price  6«.    {Dulau.) 

Itllia,  Carta  d* .     Scales  1 :  50,000  or  1*4  inches  to  a  geographical  mile,  and 

1:25,000  or  2*9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Istituto  Topografico  Militare, 
Firenze.    Sheets:   41—11.  III.    54—1.  II.  III.    55—1.  II.  N.E.,  n.o.,  8.e.,  8.o.  ; 

III.  X.E.,  K.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.  56 — I.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.  ;  II.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.  ;  III. 
S.E.,  S.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.  ;  IV.  K.E.,  K.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.  73 — I.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0. ;  II.  N.E., 
S.0,,  S.E.,  8.0. ;  III.  N.K.,  X.O.,  8.E.,  8.0. ;  IV.   N.E.,   N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.      85 — I.   II.   III. 

IV.  86 — I.  N.E.,  K.O.,  8.E.  97 — I.  II.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0. ;  III.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E., 
8.0.     Ill— I.  X.E.,  N.O.,  8.E.,  8.0.      112— IV.  8.0.     126—1.  8.E.  ;   II.  N.E.,  N.O.,  8.E., 

8.0.;  III.  K.E.,  B.E.     1346w.— IV.    Price  of  each  sheet  7d.    (Dulau.) 

Jntthmg,  ICarto  des  Komitates— — .  Nach  amtlicheu  Daten  verfasst  von  A. 
Scliopflin,  k.  u.  Postinspector.  Scale  1  :  144,000  or  2  geographical  miles  to  an 
inch.  Mit  color.  Verwaltungsbezirksgrenzen  und  gcnauester  Terrain-Darstellung. 
Text  ungarisch  u.  deutsch.    Price  48.    (Dulau.) 

Ungarn,  Statistische  Karten  von—.  Auf  Grand  der  Volksziihlungsdatcn  vora 
Jahre  1880-1  entworfen  und  gezeichnet  von  Ign.  Hdtsek,  Cartografen  im  k.  ung. 
itatist.  Landesbureau.  Petermann's  *  Geographische  Mittheilungen,'  Jahrgang 
1882,  Tafcl  19.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dulau.) 

OBDNANCE  8UBVEY  MAPS. 

Publications  issued  from  Ist  to  30th  September,  1882. 
1-Jneh— General  Maps  :— 

SooTLASD :  Sheets  81,  91  (in  Outline  and  with  Contours).    Price  Is.  9</.  each. 

E  2 


(     42     ) 

REPORT  OF  THE  EYENINO  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882-3. 

Second  Meeting,  27ih  November,  1882.~Th0  Right  Hon.  Lord  AflBRDiJ^ 
Frosidont,  in  tbo  Ohair.  f|| 

ELKTVyst^.—  Willifim  Joseph  <VEiV€/i  Andrew,  Enq.;  F.  IT,  Umumont,  3q./ 
George  W,  JJmcMnrUlge,  Esq,;  WiUiain  Francis  Bridges^  Es'j.;  Albtrt  Carei/^  ^i"*?./ 
Edmird  F.  Vliflwi,  Est].;  OeraJd  Cuthbert^  Eitrj,;  Edward  Camdt^n  DtinieU,  Esq, ; 
Col,  Lreorfje  Be  Pree;  William  Ford  Emngs,  Esq.;  Btv,  Charles  Farrar  Forster; 
Samtul  liobert  Groom^  Esq,;  Alfred  Edwin  //ar/ts,  Esq.;  Qtorge  William 
Harrison,  Esq.;  Thomas  Percy  JTeame,  Est],;  William  B,  Irvine,  Enq,;  John 
Kce/e,  Ex].;  Louis  Bert  de  Lamarre,  Esq.;  Frank  Lupton^  Esq,;  Dtmcan  Gcorffe 
Forhn  Macdotiald,  Enq, ;  Gilbert  John  McCaul^  Esq.;  John  McKHlop,  Esq.;  George 
Mantdl,  Eaiq,;  Arthur  J,  Marshall^  Esq,;  Sir  James  Marshall;  H.  B,  Morse,  Esq,  { 
Arthur  Oakes,Esq.,  m.d.  ;  Beu.  Charles  Martyn  Reed;  JT,  Beresford  liobinson,  Esq.  i 
David  Boss,  Esq.,  c.i.e.  ;  Juan  Domingo  St,  Gtorgt  Siiitinon,Es'j, ;  John  L.  Stanley, 
Esq* ;  Bev.  Ilcnt^  Fclham  Stokes ;  George  Stronach,  Esq.,  m.a.  ;  Major  B.  N. 
Suttoii;  Bev,  E,  F.  Taylor;  S,  Nugent  Toittnshend,  Esq.;  Alfred  Bond  TrestraiL 
Esq. ;  John  Tack,  Esq,,  M.D. ;  Charles  William  WJiile,  Esq.  ^ 

The  following  were  the  subjects  of  the  evening  : —  ^ 

1.  '*  M.  P.  M,  Lesw\ra  Second  Journoy  in  the  Turkoman  Country: — Askalxid  to 
Ghuriim,  near  Herat."  (Transhxteid  ami  abridgeii  from  tlie  anthor'a  narrativo  hi  the 
Gohs  newspaper  of  St.  Potcrahurg,  and  read  by  Mr,  D.  W.  Frc^shtiold,  Secretary.) 

2.  "  Jttituarks  on  M.  Lcsaar'tJ  Survey.'*  By  Major-Generftl  Sir  IL  C.  KawUiisoo, 
K.c.n, 

For  both  paper»  and  the  discussioD,  vide  an^'p.  1.  ^M 

Th»^  Meeiing,  llih  December,  1882.— Goneral  Sir  J.  H.  Lefroy,  u.a., 

K.C.M.O.,  Vice-President,  in  the  Chair.  ^1 

Elections. — Major-General  Bidiard  D,  Ardagh ;  Jsamhard  Bruitd,  £a^ 
Bichard  Eve,  Esq. ;  Dr.  J.  J,  Lamprey;  James  U.  Mitcheaon,  Esq. 

ProvioQs  to  the  reading  of  tlic  fmiwr,  the  Cliairman  (Sir  Henry  Lkfroy), 
annount-ed  that  the  Council  had  nauh  final  arrangements  liy  which  Mr,  Joseph 
Tkimison  would  leave  Englandi  in  a  few  dayH^  to  enter  ui>on  a  new  and  very  adven- 
turoua  course  of  travel  in  Central  Africa.  There  was  no  one  present  who  was  not 
aware  of  the  courage,  energy,  and  ability  with  which  Mr.  Thomson  assumed  the 
ro3]x>nsihility  that  devolved  ujxjn  him  by  the  dealli  of  hia  leader  in  the  formei 
expedition,  the  late  eminent  geographer,  Mr.  Keith  Johnston.  That  he  should 
again  Ito  ready  to  embark  ujKin  a  course  of  travel  wlucli  was  certainly  more 
extensive  and  more  novel,  and  fraught  with  still  greater  difilculties,  was  a 
matter  in  which  tliey  could  not  but  take  a  deep  interest,  and  he  would  not 
bo  doing  justice  cilbcr  to  the  Council  or  to  the  Members  of  the  Sxjiety,  il 
he  were  not  to  take  this  opportunity  of  wishing  to  Mr.  Thomson  the  Buccesi 
which  his  courage  and  enterprise  deserved,  and  which,  he  trusted,  would 
bring  him  back  to  this  country  ia  two  years*  time  with  great  inoroa«o  oi 
information.  ^h 

The  following  paper  waa  then  read : —  .^1 

*'  Explorations  in  Giiatcmala,  and  Examination  of  ihc  old  Indian  cities,  Tmu 
and  TTsumaclnta."    By  A.  P-  Mandalay,  Estj, 

Will  be  publiahed,  with  map  and  illustrations,  in  a  Bilbscquent  numbef  of  the 
*Proce©tlings»' 


(    43     ) 


PBOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographioal  Society  of  Parii.— December  Ist,  1882 :  M.  H.  Duteyrieb  in 

the  Chair. — ^The  committee  charged  with  the  arrangements  for  the  third  German  Greo- 

gmphical  Congress,  intended  to  be  held  on  the  29th,  30th,  and  Slst  March,  1883,  at 

Frankfort,  sent  the  programme  of  the  congress,  which  will  be  accompanied,  as  before, 

\j  an  exhibidoa  of  geographical  objects.— M.  Ferd.  de  Lessepe  presented  the  third 

Tolame  of  *  L'Histoire  Universelle,'  by  M.  Marius  Fontane,  relating  to  Egypt,  and  said 

tliift  the  work  shows  that  the  early  history  of  the  Egyptian  people  furnishes  useful 

mfcrmatioQ  for  our  guidance  in  the  present,  and  that  it  should  be  consulted  in  order 

to  know  exactly  the  necessities  of  the  present  time  in  Egypt,  and  to  foresee  the 

eugeocies  of  the  fhtore ;  he  added  that  he  would  like  this  volume  to  be  read  by 

thoee  who  before  the  civilised  world  have  assumed  the  responsibilities  of  the  destiny 

of  modem  Egypt.    He  would  repeat  to  the  Society  what  he  had  said  on  this  subject 

to  the  deputation  of  English  trades  unionists : — **  It  would  bo  a  great  honour  for 

England  if,  after  having  established  order  in  Egypt,  she  preserved  Egypt  for  the 

Egyptians.    As  your  fellow-countrymen  are  in  Egypt,  let  me  tell  you  that  the 

Egyptian  people  (as  their  history  teaches)  are  sure  of  r^aining  their  autonomy,  and 

aimorh  the  race  which  seeks  to  snbdue  them.^    M.  de  Lesseps  then  gave  an  account 

of  M.  de  Brazza's  reception  by  the  Municipal  Council  of  Paris,  who  awarded  the 

traveller  a  gold  medal  at  this  ceremony,  which  took  place  lately,  and  which  he 

attended  as  delegate  from  the  Society.    He  explained  that  M.  de  Brazza  had  been 

■Bt  by  the  French  Committee  of  the  '*  Intemati<Mial  African  Association  "  to  establish 

driliaiDg  stations  in  Africa,  and  these  having  been  established  they  had  been  handed 

over  to  the  French  Government,  by  oonsent  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians,  the  founder 

aad  PresideDt  of  the  Association.    This  truisfer  of  the  French  stations  to  the 

Government  took  place  bef<»e  the  presentation  and  ratification  by  the  Chambers 

of  the  treaty  between  M.  de  Brazza  and  King    Makoko.     He   reminded    the 

Society  that   an    interest  in  geography  was  an    old    tradition  of  the    Parisian 

Monicipality ;   for  when  the  expedition    of   La   Pdrouse   was   equipped,    King 

Lanis  XVI.  communicated  to  the  "Hfitel  de  Ville"  the  instructions  which  were 

pven  to  the  celebrated  navigator.    He  (M.  de  Lesseps)  had  reason  to  know  this 

dranmstance,  inasmuch  as  his  father  was  a  member  of  the  expedition.    It  was 

Bnth^Umy  de  Lesseps  who  brought  to  Europe  the  last  news  of  the  expedition  which 

ended  soon  after  so  unfortunately. — Colonel  Venukoff  then  informed  the  Meeting 

th»t  Colonel  Prejdvalaky  intends  starting  next  March  on  his  fourth  journey  into 

Gntral  Asia ;  although  suffering  from  a  complaint  in  his  eyes,  he  is  superintending 

tbe  printing  of  Uie  account  of  his  third  journey  in  the  Asiatic  deserts,  which  will 

apfnr  in  January  1883,  with  maps  and  drawings.    He  announced  also  the  publica* 

tioB  of  a  map  of  the  Oasis  of  the  Tejend  and  the  routes  leading  thence  to  Merv,  and 

ctated  that,  after  three  journeys  made  this  year  in  Central  Asia,  M.  Lessar  had 

returned  to  Askabad.    He  had  fixed  the  position  of  Merv.    Its  altitude  does  nut 

exceed  880  feet. — ^It  was  announced  that  a  paper  had  been  received  on  the  tribes 

inblnting  ihe  mountains  which  separate  Tong-king  from  the  Me-kong,  never  yet 

Tifltsd  by  a  traveller,  through  Abb^  Lesserteur,  Director  of  the  College  of  Foreign 

IGanons  in  Paris. — ^A  proof  of  the  map  of  l^ahr-el-Abiad  (White  Nile),  prepared  by 

Anaud-Bej  from  his  own  surveys  and  astronomical  observations  taken  in  1840^ 

41-42,  was  laid  on  the  table. — M.  Mattel,  Consular  Agent  at  Brass,  wrote  on  the 

22^  Kovember  that  he  had  just  gone  up  the  Niger  as  far  as  Lukoja.    He  had  seen 

Kii%  Ahmadou,  who  has  a  large  territory  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Benu^.    Captain 

Ful  Serin,  who  was  sent  to  Cambodia,  intimates  that  he  has  begun  a  map  of  the 


64  NEW  MAPS. 

IX.— 16 ;  X.— 10, 13, 14;  XV.— 3,  4 ;  XVI.-2;  3».  6d,  each.  IX.— 16  ; 
XVI.— 5;  4«.  each.  XVI.— 1,6;  4».  6d.  each.  Area  Book  1».  DraytoD, 
sheets  V.— 4,  8,  11 ;  3«.  ed.  each.  V.— 3,  7 ;  4».  each.  V.— 12 ;  5*.  6c/. 
Area  Book  1«.  Fifield,  sheets  XIX.— 12, 16 ;  2».  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 3 ;  Sn. 
XLX.— 15;  XXIV.— 4;  3«.  6<i.  each.  Area  Book  1«.  Kritwell,  sheets  X. 
15, 16 ;  2n.  6d  each.  XVI.— 4, 11 ;  3«.  each.  XVI.— 8, 12;  3«.  Qd.  each. 
XVI.— 3,  7 ;  48.  each.  XVI.— 6 ;  4«.  Gd. '  Area  Book  Is.  Hanwoll,  slicets 
II.— 15 ;  28.  ed.  II.— 16 ;  V.— 4,  8 ;  VI.— 5  ;  3s.  M.  each.  V.— 3 ;  4«. 
Area  Book  Is.  Horley,  sheets  II.— 10, 11, 15;  2s.  6rf.  each.  V.— 2;  3s. 
II.— 14;  3«.  6rf.    v.— 3;  4s.    Area  Book  Is.    Horntoo,  sheets  II.— 9, 10, 

11,  13,  15;  2s.  6*^.  each.  V.— 2;  38.  II.— 14;  V.— 1 ;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
Area  Book  Is.  Idbgry,  sheets  XIX.— 7.  12,  16;  2s.  Gd.  each.  XIX.— 
8,  11,  15;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Little  Rollright,  sheets  XIV. 
—1;  2s.  Gd.  XIV.— 6;  3s.  XIV.— 2 ;  3s.  Gd.  Area  Book  Is.  SShen- 
ington,  sheets  II.  — 13;  IV.— 4 ;  28.  Gd.  each.  IV.— 8;  3s.  V.— 1  ; 
3s.  Gd.  v.— 5 ;  4s.  Area  Book  Is.  Shouldem,  sheets  X.— 16 ;  28.  Gd. 
X.— 14;  XVI.— 2;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XVI.— 3,  7;  4s.  each.  XVI.  — 6; 
48. 6d:  Area  Book  Is.  Taynton,  sheets  XXIV.— 7.  8,  II,  12;  3s.  each. 
XXIV.— 15 ;  4s.  XXIV.— 16 ;  5«.  Area  Book  Is.  Tusmore,  sheets  XI. 
—13;  XVII.— 2,5;  2s.  6rf.  each.  XVII.— 6;  3s.  XVIL— 1 ;  3s.  6<f.  Area 
Book  Is.  Westwell,  sheets  XXX.— 7,  10;  2s.  Gd.  each.  XXX.— 2,  3,  6; 
3s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Wroxton,  sheets  V.— 2 ;  3s.  V.— 6,  11 ;  3s.  Gd. 
each,  v.— 3, 7, 10;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Shropshire:  Chet>vynd  Ashton, 
sheets  XXXI.— 6  ;  2s.  Gd.  XXXI.— 10 ;  38.  X^Xl.— 13, 14 ;  38.  Gd.  each. 
XXXI.— 9;  58.  XXXI.— 5;  5s.  Gd.  Area  Book  Is.  Eyton  upoa  the 
Weald  Moors,  sheets  XXX.— 13, 14 ;  XXXV.— 4 ;  XXXVI.— 1,  2,  3,  6,  6  ; 
4s.  each.  XXXVl.— 7 ;  5s.  Area  Book  Is.  Little  Ness,  sheets  XXVIL— 
0,  11 ;  38.  Gd.  each.  XXVII.— 3,  7,  8,  12 ;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is. 
Suffolk:  Belstead,  sheets  LXXXII.— 5,  6;  3s.  each.  LXXV.— 14; 
LXXXIL— 1,  2 ;  38.  Gd.  each.  Bredfield,  sheets  LXVII.— 3,  4,  7,  8, 1 1, 1 2 ; 
38.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Cholmoudiston,  sheets  LXXXII. — 12,  16; 
LXXXIIL~13;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXXIII.— 9,  10,  14;  4s.  each.  Area 
Book  Is.  Sproujjhton,  sheets  L^V.— 5 ;  8s.  LXXV.— 9, 14 ;  38.  Gfl.  each. 
LXXV.— 6, 10, 13  ;  4s.  each.  IHiddenham,  sheets  LXVL— 16  ;  LXVII.— 
9, 13 ;  LXXV.— 8 ;  LXXVI.— 1 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXV.— 4  ;  4s.  Wang- 
ford,  sheets  XII.— 8, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16 ;  XIII.— 9, 13 ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  Xlf.— 
3,  7;  3s.  each.  XII.— 2, 6;  Ss.  Gd.  each.  Woolverstone,  sheets  LXXXII. 
—12,  16  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXXII.-8  ;  LXXXUI.— 9 ;  48.  each.  Area 
Book  Is. 

Town  Plans— scale  1 :  500  :— 

Englaxd  :  St.  Helens,  sheets  C.  18—5,  10,  16,  20,  23,  24,  25 ;  CI.  13—1,  2, 
6,  7, 11,  12, 13,  14,  15, 16, 17, 18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25;  CI.  14—11, 
16,  21 ;  CVII.  4—3,  4,  5,  8,  9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 18,  19,  20,  23,  24,  25 ;  CVII. 
8—3,  4,  5,  8,  9,  10,  13,  14,  15 ;  CVIII.  1—1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11, 

12,  13,  14,  15,  16,  17,  18,  19,  20,  25;  CVIII.  2—1,  6,  11,  10,  21 ;  CVIIL 
6—5, 10,  15;  CVIII.  6- It  6,  n  ;  2s.  each.  Shrewsbury,  sheets  XXXIV. 
6—15, 19,  20,  22,  23,  24,  25  ;  XXXIV.  7—2,  7,  11,  12,  16, 17,  18,  21,  22, 

23  ;  XXXI V.  10—2,  3,  4,  5,  8,  9,  10,  13,  14,  15,  18, 19,  20,  23,  24,  25  ; 
XXXIV.  11—1,   2,  %  G,  7,  8,  11,  12,  13,  16,  17,  18,  19,  21,  22,  23, 

24  ;  XXXIV.  14—4,  5  ;  XXXlV.  16—1 ;  2s.  each. 

ASIA. 
Formosa.— Map  of  North  — -.    Surveyed  and  drawn  by  J.  W.  Paterson,  Chinese 
Customs  Ser>'ice,  1882.    Scale  1 :  220,000  or  3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Skanska  Lithografiska  Aktiebolaget,  Malmo  (Sweden). 

Bnssisoh-Fersisclien  Grenze,  Specialkarto  der  nouen ,  und  der  Case  Merv. 

Scale  1:850,000  or  11-5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Petermann's  'Goo- 
graphische  Mittheilnngen,'  1882,  Tafel  17.    Justus  Perthes,  (Jotha.    (Dulau.) 


N£W  AIAI'S.  55 

I 
AFBICA. 

Abeaini«n,  Gerhard  Rohlfe'  Expedition  nach ,  vom  Nov.  1880  bis  April  1881. 

Nach  Dr.  G.  Bohlfs*  Itinerarskizzen  uad  Hohenbeobaclitungen  some  nach 
Dr.  Stecker's  Karte  des  Tana-See's  altcren  Qaellen  gezeichnot  v.  B.  Hassonstein. 
Scale  1:1,300,000  or  17*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Pctermann's  'Gco- 
gni^ische  Mittheilungen,*  Jahrgang  1882,  Tafel  18.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha. 

Afriqne.— Scale  1 : 2,000,000.  Sheets:  Monrovia  (region  ^quatoriale),  Bamion, 
FreUsria,  Eourouman,  Port  NoUoh,  Ville  du  Cap,  Petermaritzbourg  (r^ion 
aostrale).    IMpdt  de  la  Guerre,  Paris.    (DtUaii.) 

Algcrie. — Carte  d' Alger.    Scale  1 :  50,000  or  1*4  inches  to  a  geographical  mile. 

D^p6t  de  la  Guerre,  Paris.    {Didau.) 
Ijgypte,  Carte  de  1* .     Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Levde  par  M.  Legentil.    Paris.     Sheets  18  to  31,  34  to  37,  40  to  42,  revised  by 

the  Depot  de  la  Guerre,  Paris,  in  1882.    (ZHitow.) 

OgOOUe,  le  Congo  et  le.Viari,  Carte'provisoiredesItindraircsdoMr.  S.  de  Brazza 

dans  r ,  1880-1882.    Scale  1 : 1,600,000  or  21  •  7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Gompte-rendu  des  8<Sance8  de  la  Socidt^  de  Gtographie.  Ko.  13, 1882.  Paris. 
iJhdau,) 

Tunis. — Carte  ou  itin^raire  de  la  r^gence  de  Tunis.    Scale  1 :  400,000  or  5*5  geo- 
gnphical  miles  to  an  inch.    Ddpdt  de  la  Guerre,  Paris,  1882.    (^Dulau.) 

— ^—  Cartes    de   B^ja,    Kairouan,  Tunis,    Tabarka,  Bizerte,  Le  Kef.     Scale 

1 :  100,000  ^or  1*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    DdpCt  de  la  Guerre,  Paris. 

iDulau.) 

AMERICA. 
Altaka. — Skizze  des  Weges  von  Descbti  bis  zum  Westlichen  Kussoda,  von  Dr.  A. 

Kraose.      Scale  1 :  600,000  or  8'1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    *  Deutsche 

Gec^raphische  Blatter,'  Band  V.  Tafel  4. 

Skizze  des  Weges  von  Deschii  nach  den  See'n  des  Yukon  und  zum  Ocstlichen 

Eussooa,  im  Jahre  1882.  Von  Dr.  A.  Krausc.  Scale  1 :  600,000  or  8*1  geogra- 
phical miles  to  an  inch.  *  Deutsche  Geographische  Blatter,'  Band  V.  Tafel  5. 
Geograph.  Anst.  v.  Wagner  &  Debcs,  Leipzig.    (Dulau.') 

BnziL— Die  Unterlaufe  der  Fliisse  Trombetas,  Yamundd,  Urubii,  Uatumd  und 
Capim.  Reducirt  nach  den  1876  von  J.  Barbosa  Rodrigues  aufgenommenen  und 
m  1 :  750,000  herausgegebenon  Karten  auf  den  Maasstab  1 : 1,100,000  or  15  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Red.  v.  Eichard  Kiepert.  Berlin,  Dietrich  Reimer, 
1882.    Zeitschr.  der  Ges.  f.  Erdk.,  Bd.  xvii.  Taf.  vii.    (Dulau.) 

UNITED  STATES  CHARTS. 
Amazon  Biver  from  the  Para  mouth  to  Manaos,  on  6  sheets.  Scale  1 :  225,000  or 
3*1  geosraphical  miles  to  an  inch.  Charts  Nos.  887,  888,  889,  890,  891,  and 
892  of  the  United  States  Hydrographic  Office.  Published  under  the  direction 
of  J.  C.  P.  de  Kraflft,  Commodore  u.s.n.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navi<»ation. 
Washington,  D.C.  1882.    Price  Is.  8d.  each  sheet. 

Arctic  Ocean  between  Greenland  and  Nova  Zemla  and  between  the  60th  and 
82nd  Parallel  of  Latitude.  From  the  Swedish,  Danish,  British,  Russian,  and 
Gorman  surveys  and  explorations.  Published  at  Uydrographic  Office,  Washin^'ton 
Ua    Chart  No.  318,  corrected  July  1882.    Price'l*.  3c/. 


56  NEW  MAPS. 

UNOFFICIAL  CHARTS. 

Atlantic  Ocean,  Horth  :— 

Chart  of  the  Flemish  Cap.  With  soundings  taken  by  Siemens  Brothers,  London, 
in  1881  and  1882.    S.S.  "  Faraday.**    Scale  ^  of  an  inch  to  1  minute  of  longitude.  . 

Chart  of  the  Flemish  Cap^  Northern  Slope.  With  soundings  taken  by  Siemens 
Brothers,  London,  in  1874, 1875,  and  1879.  S.S.  **  Faraday."  Scale  ^  of  an  indi 
to  1  minute  of  longitude. 

Chart  of  the  Faraday  Hills.  With  soundings  taken  by  Siemens  Brothers, 
London,  in  1879,  1881,  and  1882.  S.S.  "  Faraday."  Scale  |  of  an  inch  to 
1  minute  of  longitude. 

The  following  is  the  description  given  by  Messrs.  Siemens  Bros.  &  Co. 
Limited,  of  the  manner  in  which  the  soundings,  given  on  these  charts,  were 
taken,  and  their  positions  fixed : — 

"  We  may  mention  that  we  consider  the  soundings  recorded  on  these  charts^ 
both  as  regards  depths  and  correctness  of  position,  as  very  reliable.  The  depths 
were  measured  by  means  of  a  steel  wire  of  small  diameter  (as  proposed  by 
Sir  William  Thomson)  and  with  our  arrangements,  the  accuracy  obtained  was 
so  great  that  the  difference  between  repeated  measurements  at  the  same  place 
in  depUis  of  about  2000  fiithoms,  rarely  exceeded  a  couple  of  fathoms.  In  many  • 
instances,  the  position  of  the  ship  when  sounding  was  determined  in  relaticm 
to  the  position  of  a  buoy,  or  of  several  buoys,  moor^  at  the  bottom,  the  positions 
of  the  buoys  themselves  being  derived  from  a  great  number  of  independ^at 
observations  repeated  for  days  and  sometimes  for  weeks. 

**  We  have  placed  the  figures  in  such  a  manner  that  their  centres  indicate 
the  localities  of  the  soundings." 

EDUCATIONAL. 

Bamberg,  E. — ^Wandkarte  von  Deutschland  fUr  Mittel-  und  Oberklassen.  Scale 
1:700,000  or  9*5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  20  sheets.  Berlin,  Chun. 
Price  16«.    {DtOau.) 

Berendsen,  0. — Schulwand-Karte  der  Balkan -HalbinBol.  Scale  1 :  925,000  or 
12*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  4  sheets.  Hildesheim,  Gude.  Price  9«. 
(JMau.) 

Berghans,  Dr.  fiermann. — Stieler's  Schul- Atlas.  Ein-uud-sechzigsto  Auflage. 
Vollstandig  neu  bearbeitet  von  Dr.  Hermann  Berghaus.  Gotha,  Justus  Perthes, 
1882.    Price  4«.    (^Dulau.) 

This  Atlas  contains  33  well -executed  maps,  and  has  been  so  highly  appic* 
elated,  that  it  lias  now  gone  through  61  editions. 

Xiepert,  Richard.— Schul- Wand-Atlas  der  Lander  Europa*s.  Dritte  Liefemng : 
Stumme  Physikalische  Wandkarto  der  Britischen  Inseln.  4  Blatter.  Scale 
1 : 1,000,000  or  13 '6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Berlin,  1882.  Vorlag  von 
Dietrich  Rcimer.    Price  5s.    (Dulau.) 

Schul- Wand-Atlas  der  Lander  Europa's.  Vierto  Lieferung :    Politische 

Wandkarte    der    Britischen    Inseln.    4  Blatter.  Scale  1  ;  1,000,000  or  13 '6 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Berlin,  1882.  Verlag  von  Dietrich  Keimer. 
Price  5s.    (Dttlau.) 

These  maps  form  part  of  the  series  of  School  Wall  Maps  which  is  at  present 
being  brought  out  by  Dr.  Bichard  Kiepert.  They  arc  executed  in  a  bold  style, 
the  colours  are  well  chosen,  and  they  are  worthy  companions  of  the  other  maps 
of  this  series  which  have  already  been  issued.  , 


EAJiXrl 


/ 


■,,..uuJS*u'«"'''''-)) 


PROCEEDINGS 

or  THl 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Itinerary  Notes  of  Bovie  Surveys  in  Northern  Persia, 
in  18SI  and  ISS2. 

By  Lient.-Col.  Beeesfom)  Lovett,  r.e.,  cs.i.,  H.M.  Consul,  Astrabad. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  January  29th,  1883.) 
Kap,  p.  120. 
[The  map  which  accompanies  the  following  itinerary  is  reduced  from  an 
excellent  plane-table  survey  made  by  the  author  on  the  scale  o^  four 
miles  to  an  inch.  The  route  from  Tehran  northwards  to  Asolat  is  well 
known,  but  new  ground  is  traversed  between  Asolat  and  the  Lar  valley, 
on  the  south  of  Mount  Damavand ;  again  between  the  Harhaz  river  and 
Firuskuh,  and  onward  to  Eurrand ;  and  also  between  Fulhad  Mahala 
and  Shah  Euh.  But  while  Lieut.-Ool.  Lovett's  survey  is  especially 
valuable  for  its  elucidation  of  untrodden  parts  of  these  Elburz  Mountains, 
it  also  throws  new  light  on  the  entire  route,  no  part  of  which  had 
hitherto  been  delineated  with  any  approach  to  the  same  detail  and 
perspicuous  accuracy.  In  the  preparation  of  the  reduced  map  it  has 
been  thought  useful  to  add  the  shores  of  the  Caspian  Sea  and  the  courses 
of  the  streams  which  descend  into  it  from  the  headwaters  traced  by 
Lieut,-Col.  Lovett.  The  valleys  of  the  Harhaz  and  the  Tilar  are  from 
the  surveys  made  by  Major  E.  D'Arcy  Todd  in  1836. 

It  would  be  a  valuable  contribution  to  geographical  science  if  the 
rest  of  the  Elburz  Mountains  were  surveyed  in  this  manner.  It  is 
understood  that  there  are  several  British  officers  in  the  north  of  Persia 
who  are  well  able  to  undertake  such  surveys,  and  who  would  gladly 
apply  their  leisure  in  that  way,  with  the  approval  of  the  authorities  and 
a  provision  for  travelling  expenses. 

Among  the  unexplored  blocks  that  invite  survey  the  following  may 
be  specified : — 

1.  The  mountainous  tract  between  the  author's  routo  from  Tehran 
to  Asolat,  and  his  route  from  Asolat  to  Pul-i-Palar,  at  the  southern  base 
uf  Mount  Damavand. 

2.  The  whole  of  the  range  to  the  westward  of  the  Tehran-Asolat 
route,  up  to  the  Bussian  frontier. 

No.  II.— Feb.  1883.]  f 


58  ITINERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 

3.  Tlio  whole  of  the  moantainous  tract  between  the  route  from 
Asolat  to  Astrabad  and  the  Caspian  Sea.    This  extensive  block  may  be 
divided  into  the  basins  of  the  Harhaz,  Tilar,  Tajan,  and  Nika  rivers,  ' 
coupling  with  those  the  small  intermediate  basins. 

4.  The  interior  slopes  of  the  Elburz  range  on  the  south  of  tho 
author's  route.    This  block  may  be  divided  thus : — 

(a)  The  slopes,  including  the  Lower  Jaji,  the  Habla,  and  the  Nim. 
(h)  The  Etih-i-Karagatch  and  the  Samnan  basin, 
(c)  The  Damgh&n  and  Shahrud  basins,  including  the  slopes  draining 
into  the  Damghdn  Kavir.] 

I.  From  Tehra.n  to  Astrabad. 

1.  GuViek  to  the  Oarden  of  Vujtia, — This  spot — a  few  trees  planted 
around  a  tank,  on  one  of  the  bare  sloping  spurs  of  the  Shamran  moun- 
tain— is  distant  but  an  hour  and  a  half  from  Gulhek,  and  this  station 
formed  our  nakl  munzil  or  sample  march.  We  were  sufficiently  far 
to  test  the  efficiency  of  our  equipment,  and  near  enough  to  enable  us 
readily  to  rectify  any  omissions. 

Vujiia  is  close  to  Osgul,  a  village  where  a  great  number  of  muleteers 
dwelL  No  muleteers  were  willing  to  go  direct  to  Astrabad  ;  we  were 
obliged  therefore  to  arrange  to  take  a  string  of  mules  part  of  the  way, 
hoping  to  get  fresh  animals  either  at  Firuskuh  or  elsewhere,  or  that  we 
should  be  able  to  pursuade  our  muleteers  to  muster  up  courage  to  go  as 
far  as  Astrabad,  and  this  was  what  eventually  was  done.  It  is  curious 
to  remark  the  repugnance  which  muleteers  from  Irak  have  to  travel  to 
Astrabad.  They  willingly  go  to  Barferosh,  a  town  nearly  as  far,  as 
unhealthy,  and  as  hot  as  Astrabad.  I  can  attribute  this  reluctance  only 
to  the  traditional  bad  fame  which  Astrabad  has  in  regard  to  climate,  and 
to  fear  of  the  Turkomans ;  the  altered  state  of  things  as  regards  the 
last  drawback  not  having  yet  been  fully  realised  by  the  class  from  which 
muleteers  are  drawn. 

2.  Vujiia  to  Ahdr. — Our  baggage  started  at  8  a.m.  and  proceeded  via 
Sonak,  a  considerable  village  east  of  Vujiia,  and  distant  from  it  about 
two  miles  by  a  road  crossing  the  spur  of  the  Elburz  Hills,  which  forms 
the  watershed  defining  the  southern  limits  of  the  Jaji  Biid  valley.  This 
road  runs  at  an  even  gradient.  We  took  a  short  cut  over  the  hill  spur, 
rising  from  6600  to  8600  feet,  and  thence  wo  descended  right  on  to 
Hajiabad.  From  the  crest  we  had  a  misty  view  of  Damavand  and  the 
Jaji  Biid  valley,  as  far  as  where  the  river  turns  to  the  south  into  the 
gorges  through  which  it  passes  previous  to  debouching  into  the  plains  at 
K&biid  Gumbuz.  We  also  perceived  Uchan.  Arrived  at  Hajiabad  we 
there  waited  until  the  caravan  came  up,  and  then  following  the  Jaji 
BM  we  came  to  Uchan.  The  valley  is  narrower  and  there  is  but  a 
meagre  strip  of  cultivation  until  Uchan,  a  small  village  with  some  fine 


IX  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  188J.  59 

walnut  and  ohinar  trees,  ie  reached.  From  that  point  we  turned 
westerly,  following  a  tributary  of  the  Jaji  Riid  in  the  midst  of  a  very 
pretty  valley,  well  wooded  with  walnut  and  poplar,  &c.  One  spot, 
called  the  Bagh-i-Egil,  is  very  umbrageous  and  green.  About  two  miles 
further  on  we  passed  the  village  of  Egil,  situated  at  the  junction  of  a 
stream  falling  into  the  one  we  had  followed,  and  2^  miles  more  brought 
us  to  our  destination,  Ah&r,  also  situated  at  the  junction  of  two  streams, 
and  surrounded  by  cornfields  and  trees.  Under  the  shade  of  some  of 
these  our  tents  were  pitched.  The  march  to-day  was  easy,  and  occupied 
for  the  baggage  eight  hours. 

3.  Akdr  to  Sarah.— We  took  the  road  that  follows  the  winding  of 
a  stream  coming  from  the  west  for  about  two  miles,  passing  through 
cornfields  and  other  cultivation.  Ascending  a  somewhat  steep  hill  by 
a  zigzag  load,  we  then  reached  a  small  plateau,  and  thence  the  road 
took  us  by  a  gentle  gradient  to  the  water-parting  between  the  Jaji  Rid 
and  the  Eirij  river  basins.  1300  feet  above  this  water-parting,  on  the 
top  of  a  very  steep  hill  of  slate  rock,  stands  a  ruined  dome  of  masoniy, 
called  the  Ealeh-i-doktar.  It  was  probably  some  kind  of  a  shrine.  The 
absence  of  water  anywhere  near  precludes  the  idea  that  it  was  a  fortalice, 
as  the  muleteers  told  us  it  had  been.  However,  as  it  is  10,500  feet  high, 
and  is  isolated,  it  forms  a  capital  survey  point.  We  now  descended  by 
a  winding  road  to  Shiristan&k,  passing  Gel  in  the  distance,  where  the 
Shah  has  a  shooting-box — a  mud  inclosure  with  some  fairly-sized  build- 
ings inside ;  near  it  is  a  waterfall  coming  from  the  Tojal  summit  of  the 
Shamran  range.  Shiristan^k  stands  at  an  elevation  of  about  7400  feet 
above  the  sea ;  it  is  a  largish  village,  containing  perhaps  1200  inhabi- 
tants, and  there  is  cultivation  all  round  about  it  and  in  the  adjacent 
valleys.  We  followed  the  course  of  the  stream,  which  is  about  50  feet 
wide  by  two  feet  deep,  until  we  arrived  at  Sarak,  a  small  hamlet,  where 
we  encamped  under  the  shade  of  some  fine  poplars  and  planes.  The 
hamlet  of  Sarak  is  not  far  from  the  junction  of  the  stream  on  which 'it 
stands  and  another  flowing  from  the  south.  At  this  junction,  at  the 
proper  season  of  the  year,  viz.  late  in  July,  trout  are  caught.  The  road 
we  pursued  was  very  fair,  in  fact  for  Persia  quite  good.  This  was  the 
road  laid  out  and  finished  about  eight  years  ago  by  General  Gasteger, 
an  Austrian  officer  in  the  Persian  service.  We  came  upon  the  road  at 
Shiristan&k,  and  followed  it  from  Sarak  to  Husun  Ikdir. 

4.  Sarak  to  Husun  Ikdir. — It  keeps  mostly  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
Gutchisir  stream.  This  stream,  called  the  "  Lora,"  meets  the  river 
flowing  past  Sarak,  about  2^  miles  below  it.  The  water  from  Gutchisir 
is  of  considerable  volume  and  velocity,  perhaps  80  feet  across  and  eight  to 
12  feet  deep,  with  a  velocity  of  eight  to  10  miles  an  hour,  and  is  very  turbid 
and  disooloaied.  There  are,  however,  numerous  rapids  and  cataracts, 
otherwise  this  would  be  a  magnificent  means  of  communication  between 
the  capital  and  the  charcoal-producing  forests,  now  70  to  80  miles 

F  2 


GO 


ITINERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


iliatant  by  road.  We  met  daily  at  least  200  mules  in  atrings  of  froai 
fifteen  to  four,  heavily  laden  with  charcoal  from  the  Kajur  and  Dina 
forests.  That,  after  all,  only  representsi  30  tons  of  charcoal  daily.  Tte 
sources  of  charcoal  supply  are  yearly  becoming  increasingly  distant 
from  the  cajjital,  and  unless  the  coal-minea  beyond  Kirij  are  properly 
worked  the  question  of  supplying  Tehran  with  fuel  will  after  a  time 
become  vitally  serious.  Much  might  be  done  in  the  way  of  re-wooding 
favourable  sites  on  the  Elburz,  readily  accessible  from  Tehran  ;  but  it 
is  to  be  feared  that,  although  for  purposes  of  the  royal  chase,  glena  and 
pastures  can  bo  strictly  preserved^  for  aueh  a  matter-of-fact  business  as 
replanting  much  difficulty  from  incredulity  and  uuappreciativoness 
would  be  oxpericnced. 

At  Husun  Ikdir  we  crossed,  the  river  by  a  bridge  of  poles  thrown 
across.  The  village  has  a  shrine,  lately  renewed.  It  is  also  small  and 
dirty,  but  we  employed  a  day's  halt  in  ascending  a  grand  mountain 
called  the  Kwli  Kacbang.  The  main  summit,  12,200  feet  high,  was 
ascended  by  Mr.  Arthur  Larcom.  From  it«  summit  Damavand  can  be 
seen,  and  from  a  lower  point — 11,500  feet — I  also  obtained  points  all 
round.  The  whole  aspect  of  the  landscajm  is,  however,  as  hideous  and 
disappointing  as  scenery  in  Afghanistan,  Hidge  after  ridge  of  bare  hill, 
and  curtain  behind  curtain  of  serrated  mountain,  certainly  sometimes 
of  charming  greys  and  blues,  but  still  all  bare  and  naked,  rugged  and 
arid. 

5.  Himm  Ikdir  to  GutchUir  and  Walhhad. — We  followed  Gasteger's 
road,  passing  through  considerable  strips  of  garden  aud  cultivation,  and 
crossing  the  valley  in  which  is  situated  the  village  of  Nisa.  The  Loni 
river,  four  miles  further,  turns  to  the  east  at  Gutchiair,  a  small  village, 
and  the  last  spot  where  any  trees  grow  until  Waliabad  is  reached.  Its 
course  above  this  point  is  ]>robably  of  some  length,  and  requires  investi- 
gation. From  Gutchisir  the  road  follows  a  stream  trending  westerly 
until  the  foot  of  the  Kotal-i-Gutchisir,  an  ascent  1600  feet  high,  is 
reached.  Ilere  the  road  rises  by  easy  gradients  to  10,200  feet.  The 
view  from  the  top  ia  grand:  the  whole  of  the  Shami-an  range,  the 
Azadbur  range,  and  Damavand,  and  the  striking-looking  peak  of  Shah- 
Zild  is  visible.  Just  beyond  the  water-parting  there  is  a  spring  of 
sulphurous-  water.  Proceeding  onwards  a  few  miles,  vegetation  re- 
commences— a  few  stunted  dates  and  other  trees  ;  the  atmosphere  also 
becomes  much  less  dry,  aud  by  the  time  Waliabad  is  reached  one  feelw 
]u  quite  a  different  climate:  white  vapoury  clouds  come  sailing  up  the 
Chaiiia  valley,  bearing  along  with  them  a  savour  of  the  sea.  The 
road  as  far  as  'Waliabad  is  very  fairly  engineered. 

6.  Waliahad  to  Tvwar. — The  road  still  follows  the  course  of  the 
Chuliis,  now  many  hundred  feet  down  in  the  valley  below.  It  is  steep  and 
very  winding,  and  before  the  fencing  recently  put  up  was  erected,  must 
have  been  dangerous  for  animals  passing  each  other,     A  tunnel  about 


A 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  61 

30  yards  long,  with  a  ridiculous  effigy  of  the  Shah  cut  out  of  the  rock, 
and  a  Persian  inscription  commemorative  of  the  completion  of  the  work, 
provokes  the  contemptuous  smile  of  the  passing  traveller.  The  whole 
road  might  have  been  laid  out  from  the  point  above  Waliabad  (where 
the  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge)  at  a  much  lower  level,  whereas  the 
steepness  of  the  road  in  part  nullifies  what  would  otherwise  have  been 
a  work  of  considerable  utility.  As  lower  levels  are  reached,  forest  trees 
and  general  verdure  refresh  the  eye ;  and  when  the  level  of  the  river  at 
3400  feet  is  reached,  the  gurgling  water,  strips  of  sward,  and  tall  forest 
trees,  backed  by  the  green  hills,  quite  make  one  doubt  being  in  Persia 
at  all,  so  unlike  is  the  scene  to  its  usual  ugly  monotony.  Towar  is  a 
small  village  situated  about  800  feet  above  the  river;  it  has  some 
cultivation  about  it,  and  we  obtained  all  the  supplies  we  required. 

The  next  day  we  shifted  camp  to  a  grove  of  hornbeam  (?)  trees, 
caUed  Asolat,  utuated  in  the  bed  of  the  Chalas.  The  place  is  a  large 
and  rather  miry  meadow,  1700  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  shade  afibrded 
by  the  grotesque  and  fantastic  growth  of  the  huge  hornbeams  makes  it 
a  suitable  camping-place.  On  our  way  we  passed  Haz^n,  crossing  the 
Chalis  by  a  bridge  there.  Murzanabad  was  opposite,  about  three  miles 
distant.     Supplies  were  got  from  thence. 

7.  From  Aaolat  to  Arsinktru. — This  was  the  prettiest  march  we  made. 
On  leaving  the  Ch^as  valley  we  soon  plunged  into  regular  forest,  with 
clearings  here  and  there.  The  general  elevation  was  about  4000  to 
4500  feet.  The  forest  scenery  was  very  English-looking — fine  oaks  and 
much  greensward.  After  emerging  from  the  forest,  we  descended  and 
crossed  at  3000  feet  the  stream  that  flows  from  Firosabad.  This  is 
said  to  be  a  ruined  village,  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  Kuh-i-Palar.  The 
country  in  that  direction,  except  just  the  head  of  Ptilar  itself,  seemed 
covered  with  dense  forests.  We  then  came  to  the  village  of  Dasht-i-Nazir, 
a  well-to-do  village  apparently.  The  inhabitants  were  busy  getting  in 
their  harvest.  We  had  remarked  that,  with  the  exception  of  Waliabad, 
the  villagers  we  had  seen  seemed  prosperous,  had  good  clothes  on,  and 
were  fat  and  healthy  looking.  Probably  the  Persian  peasant's  lot 
is,  unless  under  an  exceptionally  hard  ruler,  rather  better  than  the  life 
of  toil  and  poverty  led  by  many  Irish,  German,  and  Kussian  peasants. 
From  Dasht-i-Nazir  we  marched  along  the  Puhl  river  till  we  reached  a 
junction  of  two  streams  near  Areinkiru ;  here  we  encamped,  obtaining 
supplies  at  the  latter  place.  Two  roads  now  were  optional,  one  vid  Kajur, 
lying  east  of  us,  and  the  other  via  Mekhsas,  lying  south.  We  decided 
on  the  latter,  owing  to  the  exigencies  of  the  survey.  We  therefore 
marched 

8.  From  Arsinkiru  to  Mehhads. — We  diverged  slightly  from  our  route 
in  order  to  visit  Puhl,  a  populous  village  on  the  road  to  Kajur.  Then, 
crossing  a  wide  plain  where  harvesting  was  in  progress,  and  which  was 
teeming  with  quail,  we  crossed  a  ridge  of  limestone,  and  descended  into 


62  ITINERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 

tlio  Lergan  valloy,  and  thence  went  on  to  Mekhsds,  where  we  encamped. 
The  valleys  are  here  wide  and  well  cultivated;  the  huge  mountains  to 
the  south  afford  copious  supplies  for  numerous  streams  by  which  tho 
valleys  are  irrigated. 

9.  Mekhsds  to  Oz. — The  ascent  over  the  pass,  10,000  feet  high,  from 
5500  feet  at  Mekhsds,  took  about  three  hours  for  the  baggage,  the  road 
being  pretty  fair.  From  the  top  of  the  Mekhsas  hill  a  view  is  obtained 
of  the  Nur  valley,  Damavand,  and  the  Shahzild  Kuh.  The  view  to  tho 
south  is  of  the  usual  arid  character  of  these  mountains :  to  the  north  the 
country  is  more  fertile,  the  hill-sides  are  clad  with  trees,  though  not 
with  dense  forest.  The  Nur  valley  might  be  a  valley  in  the  highlands 
near  Ispahan  or  Shiraz  as  far  as  the  appearance  of  the  hills  inclosing 
the  valley  and  the  look  of  the  villages  are  concerned.  Oz  has  consider- 
able cultivation,  and  has  probably  about  500  inhabitants.  This  village, 
like  all  the  villages  of  the  Elburz,  possesses  a  shrine  or  Imamzadch. 
The  resting-place  of  the  holy  man  is  generally  denoted  by  a  tower  of 
masonry,  whitewashed,  with  a  conical  roof ;  this  roof  is  sometimes 
covered  with  tin-plate,  which  when  now  shines  brightly  in  the  sun.  The 
general  appearance  of  these  shrines  is  clumsy  and  ungraceful,  differing 
in  this  respect  from  those  of  Irak. 

10.  Oz  to  Bdladeh. — We  followed  the  course  of  the  Nur  river  for  about 
15  miles,  the  road  at  times  being  exceedingly  bad.  There  was  a  continuous 
breadth  of  cultivation  from  Oz  to  BAlddeh,  although  the  villages  are  few 
in  number.  We  passed  Yiish,  the  most  considerable  ;  it  was  seemingly 
deserted,  every  one  of  the  inhabitants  being  out  in  the  fields  harvesting. 
Tho  valley  was  narrow,  and  the  cliflFs  on  each  side  high  and  steep. 
Good  views,  therefore,  of  the  higher  hills  north  or  south  wore  not  ob- 
tainable, so  the  survey  was  confined  merely  to  the  valley  immediately 
adjacent  to  tho  Nur  river. 

Near  Yush,  some  substance  resembling  coal  was  found  in  the  strata  of 
a  cutting  by  the  roadside,  but  it  did  not  support  any  tests.  Coal  is  said  to 
exist  near  Gutchisir,  and  some  of  it  used  to  be  carried  to  Tehran.  After 
passing  the  hamlet  of  Ursusl  we  debouched  into  a  valley  about  two  miles 
wide  by  four  miles  long,  formed  by  the  junction  of  a  river  from  the 
south.  This  river  flows  from  the  northom  spure  of  Damavand  past 
YaM.  It  also  receives  as  tributaries  streams  from  tho  hills  lying 
between  Damavand  and  the  Shahzad  Kuh.  The  Nur  river  thus  becomes 
a  stream  of  considerable  importance. 

Biladeh  is  a  large  village  with  1000  to  1200  inhabitants.  There  are 
several  fine  gardens,  with  some  huge  poplars.  The  houses  are  of  better 
stylo  than  usual  for  villages.  To  tho  east  of  the  village  rises  a  wall  of 
rock  through  a  gorge  in  which  the  Niir  dashes  past,  a  narrow  but  deep 
and  rapid  stream. 

11.  Bdladeh  to  Chashmth  Shahi. — This  was  a  long  march.  We  left 
BaUdeh  by  8  a.m.  and  reached  camp  at  8  p.m.    The  road  lay  along  the 


IK  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  68 

bank  of  the  Yalu  river.  We  passed  E41wek,  about  five  miles  from 
Bilideh,  and  learnt  that  there  were  two  villages  on  the  stream  to  the 
right  named  Eamaru  and  Bordn.  The  river  valley  was  hemmed  in  by- 
bare  hills,  mostly  of  conglomerate.  At  four  miles  more  we  passed  the 
village  of  Mireh,  containing  perhaps  fifty  houses,  situated  7600  feet 
above  the  sea.  From  this  village,  looking  up  the  valley  south-east,  two 
high  snow-covered  peaks  are  observable  about  15  miles  oflf.  FoUomug 
the  valley  through  varying  widths  of  cornfields,  we  got  to  YiW,  a  village 
of  about  150  houses,  and  apparently  a  thriving  place  and  house-of-call 
for  muleteers.  We  met  many  strings  of  unladen  mules  going  to  BalMeh ; 
from  thence  they  go  on  towards  E^jiir  to  the  forests  for  charcoal.  Twenty 
&anc8  per  season  is  paid  for  the  privilege  of  charcoal-buming,  and  the 
renters  can  then  help  themselves  to  the  trees  as  they  like  or  where  they 
like.  This  license  is  of  course  productive  of  great  waste  and  wanton 
destroction,  and  there  is  no  regulation  to  assist  the  recuperative  action 
of  nature— no  fencing  to  prevent  flocks  and  herds  from  grazing  on  the 
young  shoots.  The  consequence  is  that,  the  forest  is  being  curtailed 
yearly. 

From  Y^lu  the  road  ascends  through  a  narrow  gorge  in  the  moun- 
tains by  a  very  steep  and  badly-designed  road,  where  the  Shah  has  had 
some  miserable  bridges  made.  The  pass  is  about  four  miles  long,  and 
the  road,  good  in  some  strips,  rises  from  7900  feet  to  9200  feet.  Here 
are  presented  all  the  characteristics  of  Persian  highland  scenery — chills 
covered  with  heath,  and  stunted  acacias  that  look  like  huge  hedgehogs, 
with  sparse  tufts  of  grass  between  them.  The  air  is  however  very  pure 
and  fresh,  and  the  water  of  the  stream  icy  cold.  We  then  reached  an 
encampment  of  Iliyats  at  the  place  called  Euchikek ;  proceeding  south 
and  still  gradually  ascending,  we  passed  through  an  opening  in  a  wall 
of  rock  about  20  feet  broad — the  dyke  of  basalt  in  which  this  opening 
occurs  rising  80  feet  or  90  feet  on  each  hand,  and  presenting  all  the 
appearance  of  a  gigantic  gateway.  This  is  called  the  Palang  Durwaz, 
or  the  *'  Panther's  Portal,"  and  may  be  the  famed  Caspian  gates,  about 
the  situation  of  which  travellers  and  antiquarians  are  so  imoertain. 
Leaving  the  Panther's  Portal  at  4.25  we  reached  at  6.30  the  water- 
parting,  11,100  feet  high,  where  sheets  of  snow  were  still  lying  in  the 
shady  hollows  of  the  hills  (July  5th).  We  ascended  to  a  suitable  peak 
(11,400  feet)  for  observations,  and  obtained  sights  of  Damavand  which 
towered  a  farther  8000  feet  above  us,  and  also  of  the  more  distant  Tojal 
Peak  of  Shamran.  We  then  descended,  and  got  to  our  camp  at  the 
Chashmeh  Shahi  by  dark. 

12.  Chcuhmeh  Shahi  to  Khan  Lar  Khan. — In  order  to  take  up  the 
thread  of  the  survey,  we  had  next  day  to  retrace  our  steps  for  about 
three  miles.  The  whole  of  the  valleys  watered  by  the  Lar  river  (which 
is  called  the  Harhaz),  after  passing  the  P&lar  bridge,  bear  evidences  of 
having  been  the  bottom  of  a  large  lake.    The  fall  of  the  river  is  slight  as 


64  ITINERARY  KOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 

far  as  D^lichai,  being  from  8900  feet  to  8500  feet  in  a  length  of  26  miles, 
or  at  a  fall  of  15  feet  per  mile,  and  the  valleys  themselves  have  wide  flat 
plains  not  easily  accounted  for  except  under  the  supposition  that  they  have 
been  deposited  under  water.  I  think  an  examination  of  the  gorge  just 
beyond  Dalichai  explains  the  cause  of  these  lacustrine  bottoms.  Before 
Dalichai,  although  within  a  distance  of  six  miles  from  the  crater  of 
Damavand,  the  rock  formation  evinces  no  volcanic  origin;  but  about 
one  mile  more  to  the  east  we  come  upon  matsses  of  lava  brought  down  by 
the  winter  glaciers  and  moraines,  and  further  on  the  rock  is  lava ;  and 
the  gorge  cut  by  the  Lar  in  its  descent  from  8500  feet  to  Puli-Pdlilr 
(7000  feet),  or  1500  feet  in  four  miles,  is  formed  on  the  one  side  by  the 
nummulitio  rock  forming  the  southern  bank,  and  on  the  other  side  by 
the  lava  that  has  flowed  down  from  the  Damavand.  The  conclusion 
seems  to  be  this :  the  overflow  of  eruptions  when  Damavand  was  an 
active  volcano  seems  to  have  flowed  south  and  south-east,  and  not  to  the 
south-west.  Kegarding  the  northern  slopes  I  cannot  speak,  not  having 
visited  them.  Now  the  fluid,  lava  overflowing  south  came  into  contact 
with  the  nummulitic  range  running  east  and  west,  and  effectually 
dammed  up  the  Lar,  causing  all  the  matter  it  brought  down  to  be 
deposited,  and  in  the  course  of  ages  to  form  the  wide  flat  elevated  plains 
that  now  form  the  Lar  pastures.  Since  the  extinction  of  Damavand's 
activity,  at  all  events  on  the  southern  side,  the  accumulated  waters  have 
found  out  the  weakest  point  in  the  lava  wall  and  have  made  for  them- 
selves a  channel  or  canon  along  which  the  Lar  now  rushes  on  to  Pul-i- 
Palar.  The  Lar  plains  are  so  well  known,  and  have  probably  been  so 
often  described,  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  say  anything  more  about  them 
here.  We  found  the  Hoyal  Camp  was  established  at  Siah  P^las,  and 
therefore  proceeded  to  the  pasture  called  Khan  Lar  Khan  whore  we 
camped  by  the  river. 

13.  Khan  Lar  Khan  to  Ash— "Next  day  we  followed  the  course  of  the 
Lar,  passing  the  Safid  Rud  that  flows  into  it,  and  encamped  on  a  spur 
overlooking  the  Ddlichai  river.  We  passed  large  herds  of  brood  mares, 
who  roam  almost  at  will  over  these  wide  plains  and  gentle  uplands. 
Supplies  are  not  generally  procurable,  and  there  are  no  villages  nearer 
than  Ask. 

Saturday f  9lh  July. — Leaving  camp  at  noon  we  got  to  Ask  by  5  p.m.  ; 
distance  three  and  a  half  farsakhs.  The  track  from  Dalichai  or  Safidab 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Harhaz  for  about  two  miles.  The  road  then 
diverges,  one  going  to  Pul-i-Palar,  and  the  other,  a  mere  track  on  the  left 
hand,  eventually  joining  the  high  road  from  Damavand  to  AmoL  About 
one  mile  from  the  Safidab  river  the  ground  is  found  covered  with  frag- 
ments of  lava,  some  of  considerable  size.  They  are  apparently  all  ice-borne, 
and  the  cold  in  winter  is  described  as  being  intense.  Last  year  (1880-1) 
the  high  road  to  Amol,  at  the  point  where  it  crosses  the  higher  spurs  of 
Damavand,  was  closed  for  twenty-seven  days.    The  Harhaz  river  flows 


IN  NORTOERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  G5 

through  a  narrow  chasm,  gradually  increasing  in  depth  until  its  steep 
aidee  rise  south  of  the  cone  of  Damavand  to  between  1200  to  1500  feet. 
The  road,  newly  made  towards  Amol,  has  a  breadth  of  about  16  feet. 
The  section  is,  for  the  portion  I  saw,  fairly  made,  but  like  all  Persian 
hill  roads  it  requires  an  inner  drain.  The  revetment  walls  are  poor, 
still  it  is  an  immense  improvement  on  mountain  tracks  in  this  country. 
The  gradients  also  are  prohibitive  for  cart  traffic.  A  large  sum  of  money 
most  have  been  spent  on  this  work,  as  the  side  cuttings,  through  lava 
rock,  exhibit  a  considerable  amount  of  work.  The  highest  point  of  the 
road  was  9000  feet  above  sea-level,  and  pasture  lands  could  be  discerned 
extending  up  the  flanks  of  the  great  mountain,  to  heights  probably  of 
1-4,000  or  15,000  feet.  The  village  of  Rehna  (described  by  Major 
Napier),  is  visible  from  some  distance,  possessing,  as  usual  all  over 
the  Central  Elburz,  a  conical-shaped  and  white-washed  Imamzadeh 
snrrovnded  by  a  few  trees.  From  7600  feet  the  road  drops  down  in 
a  length  of  two  and  a  half  or  three  miles  to  6300  feet.  It  zigzags 
for  some  distance,  and  then  goes  on  towards  Sehna.  A  path  steep  and 
bad  winds  down  into  a  ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  sulphur- 
impregnated  stream  that  eventually  falls  into  the  Harhaz.  Crossing  this 
stream  and  keeping  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Harhaz  at  a  dizzy  height 
tbove  its  surface,  we  pass  through  fields,  gardens,  and  orchards,  and 
gradnallj  descending  reach  Ask.  This  village  is  almost  deserted  in 
winter,  although  it  can  boast  of  having  a  Governor.  The  inhabitants 
mostly  come  from  Mazanderan,  that  is,  from  Amol,  for  the  summer. 
The  houses  have  flat  roofs,  are  built  of  sun-dried  brick,  or  mud,  and 
look  quite  like  any  other  village  in  Irak.  The  streets  are  very  narrow, 
snd  the  only  path  is  along  the  deep  and  dirty  gutter  in  the  middle  of 
the  street.  The  pervading  stench  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  is  at  first 
insupportable.  The  sulphur  baths  at  this  place  are  much  resorted  to 
by  patients  suffering  from  rheumatism.  There  is  no  decent  ground  to 
encamp ;  travellers  had  better  avoid  Ask  and  encamp  near  Rehna  or 
at  Ira,  about  three  miles  further  on  and  across  the  river.  A  single- 
arched  bridge  of  about  22  feet  span  has  lately  been  thrown  across 
the  Haras.  The  centering  had  not  been  taken  down  when  I  passed. 
Supplies — such  as  fowls,  eggs,  barley,  fodder — procurable,  but  no  fruit. 

14.  A»k  to  Lesan. — Starting  at  5.20,  wo  reached  camp  at  10.30  a.m.  . 
The  first  hour  was  expended  in  climbing  up  by  a  very  steep  path  the  clifls 
overhanging  the  Harhaz,  on  its  right  bank.  On  the  top  of  this  cliff  the 
ground  is  to  some  extent  flat  and  well  cultivated ;  corn  was  nearly  ripo. 
Jn  the  midst  of  these  fields  stands  the  considerable  village  of  Ira,  contain- 
ing perhaps  200  houses.  The  peasantry  seemed  well-to-do ;  their  clothes 
were  new  and  clean,  the  houses  in  fair  order,  and  there  was  much  outward 
evidence  of  prosperity.  A  guide  was  not  procurable  under  five  krans, 
thus  showing  considerable  immunity  from  want.  The  services  of  a 
local  guide  were  consequently,  on  this  exorbitant  price  being  asked  for, 


66  ITINERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS  ' 

dispensed  with.  From  Ira  the  road  ascends  till  it  reaches  an  elevation  of 
about  9200  feet.  There  is  water  at  intervals  issuing  from  springs.  To 
the  left  of  the  pass  a  peak  called  Kuh-i-Surd  rises  to  the  height  of 
10,600  feet;  from  there  the  view  of  Damavand  is  magnificent,  and 
much  more  picturesque  than  from  the  west.  In  an  adjacent  valley  to 
the  north  lies  the  large  village  of  N6v4h,  surrounded  by  fruit  and 
willow  trees  and  cultivation.  A  track  passes  through  it  and  on  to 
Arjumand.  During  the  ascent,  until  nearly  reaching  the  top  of  the  pass, 
we  had  been  surrounded  by  mist  and  white  clouds.  The  view  that  mot 
our  gaze  from  the  top  of  the  Kuh-i-Surd  was  beautiful,  Damavand  and 
other  peaks  around  rising  out  of  a  sea  of  white  vapour,  which  roughly 
indicated  the  course  of  the  Harhaz.  The  clouds  gradually  disappeared  as 
the  sun  heated  the  atmosphere ;  but  thoy  are  generally  present  at  night 
between  the  levels  of  4000  to  6000  feet.  Below  the  4000  feet  contour 
the  heat  of  the  atmosphere  prevents  condensation,  and  above  6000  feet 
the  evaporation  of  the  Caspian  is  not  carried  up  inland,  except  occasion- 
ally when  pushed  by  the  wind.  Lesan  is  a  village  of  perhaps  150  houses. 
Ordinary  supplies  are  procurable.  There  is  no  suitable  camping-ground 
near  Lesan,  but  several  spots  adapted  for  a  tent  or  two  are  situated  at 
about  three  and  a  half  miles  off,  by  the  bank  of  the  rivulet  that  flows 
westerly  into  the  Harhaz. 

16.  Lesan  to  Arjumand. — Started  at  5.15  and  proceeded  eastwards  up 
the  valley  varying  in  breadth  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile.  The  cornfields 
very  promising,  and  some  ready  for  the  sickle.  At  5.45  we  passed  the 
valley  of  Engamor,  lying  on  the  right-hand  side,  from  which  a  stream 
flows.  The  Shah  has  visited  this  valley,  which  is  said  to  be  "  nihiat  khiib  o 
khush  o  kuram,"  that  is,  there  is  probably  a  little  spot  of  green  turf,  a 
good  spring  of  water,  and  a  few  trees  for  shade,  where  breakfast  can  be 
enjoyed.  That  seems  the  ideal  standard  of  beauty  or  fitness  in  a  land- 
scape from  the  Persian  point  of  view. 

Going  still  eastwards  and  gradually  ascending  by  a  road  practicable  for 
field-guns,  we  reached  the  water-parting,  9750  feet  high,  at  6 .45,  the  hills 
forming  the  head  of  the  valley  gradually  closing  in.  Ascending  one  which 
dominates  the  valley,  we  obtained,  at  10,600  feet,  a  view  of  Damavand 
to  the  north-west,  and  40  miles  east  a  conspicuous  peak,  about  11,800  feet 
high,  called,  as  I  subsequently  ascertained,  Eadamgdh,  as  yet  unmarked 
in  published  maps.  Starting  again  at  8.15,  we  passed  a  series  of 
villages  till  we  reached  camp  near  Arjumand  at  4  p.m.  These  villages 
are  situated  on  the  banks  of  a  torrent,  locally  the  Nimrud,  that  in- 
creasingly augmenting  its  volume  by  the  contributions  of  tributary 
streams,  eventually  under  the  name  of  the  Dalichai,  flows  out  into  the 
lower  plains  about  Lash  gird,  called  Khavur  (see  Napier).  The  strip  of 
land  cultivated  on  each  side  is  not  broad.  The  villages  are,  however, 
8ome  of  them  largo  and  apparently  well-to-do.  The  names  are  the 
following :  Zirmand,  Nujufdurd,  Dehan,  Asu,  and  Underia.    Asu  is  the 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA.  IN  1881  AND  1882.  67 

most  considerable,  and  is  a  better  haltlDg-place  than  Arjumand.  The 
latter  is  situated  one  and  it  half  mile  to  the  left  of  the  road  to  Firuskuh) 
up  a  side  valley  traversed  by  the  stream  that  flows  with  a  considerable 
body  of  water  into  the  Nimrud.  It  is  a  village  surrounded  by  high 
bare-looking  hills,  and  is  built  on  a  small  eminence  that  gives  it  a  com- 
pact and  symmetrical  appearance.  Our  march  from  the  water-parting 
was  in  the  district  of  Eusgaucha. 

16.  Arjumand  to  Firuakuh. — Starting  at  G  a.m.,  we  reached  camp  at 
Ftmsknh  at  1 .30  p.m.  ;  our  course  being  along  the  banks  of  theNimriid, 
till  we  reached  the  village  of  Silivan.  The  breadth  of  cultivation  was 
wider,  and  to  the  south  the  slopes  of  the  hills  were  in  many  places 
cultivated,  but  the  only  village  visible  was  Wastang.  The  crest  of  tho 
chain  on  the  right  hand  recedes  to  the  south  and  diminishes  also  in 
altitade.  Silivan  is  a  small  village  on  the  banks  of  the  Nimrud,  where 
it  trends  abruptly  south ;  beyond  it  is  the  escarp,  400  feet  high,  of  the 
Finuknh  plateau.  This  plateau  in  general  appearance  resembles  any  of 
the  highland  pasturages  common  in  the  table-lands  of  Irak.  '  It  is 
spanely  covered  with  stunted  vegetation  of  strong-scented  scrub- 
beather,  &c.  It  is  said  to  be  strictly  preserved  for  the  royal  chase,  but 
althongh  for  the  purposes  of  survey  I  was  frequently  at  some  distance 
from  the  main  track,  and  on  hill  tops  and  so  on,  I  only  saw  one  gazelle. 
Tiewed  from  a  height,  this  extensive  plateau  is  found  to  be  deeply 
furrowed  with  numerous  ravines,  flowing  from  the  hills  forming  its 
northern  watershed  into  the  Nimrud.  Probably  at  one  time  the  rainfall 
over  this  valley  was  much  greater  than  at  present.  During  my  halt  at 
Fimskuh  I  observed  the  rain  and  moisture-bearing  clouds  from  the 
Caspian  came  and  rested  on  the  mountains,  endeavouring  to  advance  into 
the  plain  by  every  valley  looking  into  it,  but  beyond  a  certain  distance 
they  could  not  go;  the  higher  temperature  of  the  air  over  the  plain 
dissipated  the  clouds  into  invisible  vapour. 

Under  another  government,  doubtless,  measures  would  be  taken  to 
replant  these  native  plains,  gradually  reforesting  them,  beginning  with 
the  southern  slopes  of  the  hills,  and  thus  coaxing  the  rain  to  fall.  Such 
measures,  besides  ameliorating  the  climate,  would  lay  the  foundations 
of  future  stores  of  fuel,  and  they  would  have  the  further  advantage  of 
gradually  increasing  the  output  of  water  for  irrigation  purposes  on  to 
the  parched  plains  farther  south.  But  the  hand  of  the  charcoal-burner 
is  playing  havoc  with  the  southern  edges  of  the  forests  of  the  Tabaristan, 
cansing  them  to  shrink  yearly  in  extent,  and  on  the  north  the  ill- 
legolated  felling  of  boxwood,  walnut,  and  other  forest  trees  is  curtailing 
the  extent  of  their  northern  margins.  It  is,  however,  obviously  useless 
to  expect  that  the  Persian  government  will  abandon  its  neglectful  course 
as  regards  the  abundant  natural  resources  of  Iran. 

The  village,  or  town  of  Fimskuh,  as  it  may  be  entitled  to  be  called, 
being  dignified  by  a  local  governor,  has  been  already  described  by  Major 


68  ITINERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 

Napier.  There  is  a  telegraph  office  here  where  I  proposed  putting  np, 
but  found  it  occupied.  A  line  going  from  this  town  to  Semnan  was 
put  up  for  the  Shah ;  there  is  no  traffic.  The  local  telegraphist,  a  Shirazi, 
called  on  me  the  second  day  of  my  halt  to  see  me ;  he  complained  of  the 
stinginess  of  the  inhabitants,  and  said  that,  although  well  off,  they 
never  indulged  in  mutton,  always  eating  goat-meat  because  it  was 
cheaper  !  I  found  also  that  nothing  was  procurable  in  the  bazaar,  not 
even  candles  or  fruit,  only  ordinary  provisions,  barley,  fowls,  &c. ; 
even  a  shoeing-smith  was  not  available.  Whilst  on  this  subject  it  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  notice  the  fnodu8  operandi  of  shoeing  horses 
in  Persia.  The  shoes  used  are  similar  to  those  employed  in  Afghan- 
istan. The  shoeing-smith  merely  puts  them  on,  he  does  not  forge 
them,  that  is  another  man's  tpecialite ;  consequently  no  alteration  can 
well  be  effected,  and  generally  shoes  are  put  on  that  bear  no  relation 
to  the  shape  or  size  of  the  hoof.  With  Persians,  as  with  Indians  and 
Afghans,  the  hoof  has  to  be  trimmed  according  to  the  shoe.  This  is 
accomplished  by  a  large  flat  gouge  fitted  to  a  handle  on  one  side ;  the 
shoeing-smith  pares  away  the  hoof  by  drawing  this  parer  or  gouge  over 
the  hoof  towards  himself.  In  the  Caucasus  a  smaller  parer  is  used,  only 
it  is  pushed  from  the  operator,  not  pulled  towards  him.  The  hoof  being 
pared  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  nalhandy  he  selects  a  shoe  and  nails  it 
on  with  six  or  eight  nails ;  to  clinch  these  the  animal  is  made  to  stand 
on  the  foot  which  is  being  operated  on,  resting  on  a  block  of  wood,  and 
the  portion  of  the  hoof  projecting  beyond  the  shoe  is  ruthlessly  pared 
away  and  rasped  off;  sometimes  as  much  as  an  inch  in  height  of  the 
wall  of  the  hoof  is  thus  cut  away. 

Finding  no  accommodation  inside  the  town  I  had  my  camp  pitched 
near  a  stream  that  falls  into  the  Gorsafid  river.  There  is  no  eligible 
site  for  a  camp,  and  the  strong  wind  blowing  day  and  night  from  the 
north  was  very  disagreeable.  This  wind  carried  some  clouds  from  the 
northern  mountain  range  partially  across  the  plain,  but  no  rain  fell. 
At  Firuskuh,  a  chapur  khanah,  or  posting-house  establishment  exists. 
The  chapur  khanah  is  in  ruins,  and  three  sorry  nags  are  kept  out  in 
the  pastures  for  occasional  posting. 

17.  Firuskuh  to  Chashmeh  Kahud. — As  Major  Napier  had  taken  the  road 
to  Jlulhad  Mahala  via  Gorsafid,  I  adopted  a  different  route,  and  started 
at  7.20  A.M.,  reaching  the  water-parting  to  the  north-east  at  10.12  a.m., 
at  a  ruined  serai,  called  the  £uduk-i-Shah  Abbasi,  as  it  is  believed  this 
ruined  serai  was  one  of  the  numerous  ones  erected  by  Persia's  great 
monarch  of  modem  times.  The  route  lay  over  a  gradually  ascending 
plain,  until  from  6700  feet  at  Firuskuh  wo  rose  to  7800  feet  at  the 
water-parting.  This  route  is  much  frequented  by  carriers  taking 
charcoal  and  planks  of  beech  and  walnut  to  the  capital.  Their  route 
from  the  water-parting  goes  downward  into  the  valley  of  the  Tilar,  and 
thus  into  the  forests  of  Mazanderan,    Wo  took  a  hilly  path  to  the  right, 


IN  KORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  69 

gndtully  ascending  the  hills  that  lay  to  the  east,  passing  several  hamlets 

inhabited  by  Mazanderanis,  who  with  their  herds  of  [mares,  come  np 

lieie  in  the  summer  months.     The  di£ference  of  dress  and  manners  from 

the  peasantry  we  had  hitherto  seen  was  marked ;  the  men  wearing  huge 

iheepskin  hats  and  short  jacket-like  coats,  baggy  breeches,  and  leggings 

of  webbing  bound  round  and  round.     These  they  call  pai-tUf  a  corrup- 

tion  of  pai-4ua^  or  leg  wraps.    Possibly  the   same  articles  called  in 

JLtihmir  jnUu,  and  known  over  Northern   ludia  by  that  name,  have 

their  derivation  from  the  Persian  pai-tua.    The  women  also  appeared 

inveiled ;  they  wore  red  shirts  and  blue  trousers,'and  looked  excessively 

dirty.     Chashmeh.  Kabud  is  a  very  small  hamlet  with  a  good  spring  of 

water;  no  supplies,  except  milk  and  grass,  procurable,  and  no  proper 

camping-ground.     The  path  from  the  water«parting  is  not  practicable 

for  any  except  lightly-laden  animals.    The  hills  were  still  bare,  though 

to  the  north  there  were  glimpses  of  forest-clothed  peaks  and  slopes.    A 

few  wild  gooseberry  bushes  grew  about  Chashmeh  EabM ;  this  fruit 

ii  called  guUhaugir,    This  plant  is  not  commonly  found  on  these  hills. 

18.  Kahud  Chashmeh  to  Sdldsh. — A  short  but  difficult  march  over  the 
hills  to  the  east.      S^l&sh  is  a  chaman  or  pasture  of  a  few  acres  in 
extent*  visited  annually  by  the  shepherds  of  the  Sung-i-sin  tribe,  who 
inhabit  during  the  cold  season  the  large  village  of  the  same  name  dose 
to  Semnan.    They  live  in  black  woollen  tents,   and  are  engaged  in 
pasturing  their  numerous  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  and  in  converting 
the  milk  into  che^e  and  butter  for  sale.     This  tribo  is  numerous,  and 
they  occupy  all  available  pasturage  from  Semnau  to  the  neighbourhood 
of  Khing.     After  pitching  camp,  I  ascended  the  Kuh  Kadamgah,  distant 
»bont  a  mile  to  the  north,  reaching  the  top  in  about  three  hours  and  ob- 
taining a  view  of  Damavand.    I  observed  the  configuration  of  the  country 
towards  the  Caspian ;  but  unfortunately  in  that  direction  there  were 
clouds.     Supplies  had  to  be  brought  with  us,  nothing  but  milk  or  cheese 
being  procurable.   There  are  at  Salash,  elevation  8600  feet,  small  patches 
of  barley  now  being  harvested,  and  consequently  all  hands  are  thus 
engaged ;  a  guide  was,  therefore,  not  available  except  at  an  outrageously 
high  price. 

19.  Saiaah  to  Chashmeh. — About  25  miles.  Started  at  5.30  a.m.  and 
proceeded  eastwards  along  a  narrow  valley  sparsely  cultivated  here  and 
there  at  encampments  of  the  Sung-i-sin  shepherds ;  the  vegetation,  of 
vew  or  juniper,  or  cypress,  gradually  increasing  as  we  proceeded.  After 
going  on  for  eight  or  nine  miles  along  a  tolerably  decent  track,  we 
arrived  at  a  gorge  called  the  Tung  Bosia,  the  path  along  which  was  very 
bad,  and  in  parts  dangerous.  The  scenery,  however,  was  wild  and 
picturesque  in  the  extreme.  We  passed  a  splendid  spring  called  Chashmeh 
Bosi4 ;  the  water  pours  out  from  three  heads  in  largo  volumes,  so  that 
the  stream  which  above  the  springs  was  only  about  eight  or  nine  inches 
deep,  was,  below  them,  about  two  feet  deep  and  12  feet  wide.    The 


70 


ITlNERARy  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


water  comes  out  of  a  crevice  in  a  prccipioo  of  rock,  and  is  said  to  bo 
perennial  in  its  flow. 

AVe  then  ascended  from  the  stream  that  trended  away  to  the  left 
eventually  to  fall  into  the  river  that  flows  on  the  north  side  of  tho 
Kadamgah  Mount  and  thence  to  the  sea,  under  the  name  of  tlie  Rud-i- 
Tilar,  and  passing  over  an  eminence,  saw  the  largo  village  of  Chashmeh 
in  tho  distance,  lying  at  tho  foot  of  the  Nizwa  mountain.  About 
five  miles  more  raarchinej  brought  us  to  camp  there  abo^it  noon.  The 
village  is  mostly  inhabited  by  Syuds,  and  has  a  considerable  breadth  of 
cultivation.  A  stream  coming  from  the  Nizwa  mountain  (not  Nezwar 
as  in  the  maps),  divides  the  village  into  two  portions ;  both  seem 
neglected  and  not  very  well-to-do.  There  is  a  shrine,  shaded  "by 
venerable  walnut-trees,  that  forms  a  conspicuous  object^  discernible  from 
a  long  distance.  A  mountain  path  leads  from  Chashmeh  into  Mazandoran 
over  the  hills  to  the  north  ;  it  is  said  to  be  practicable  for  laden  mules. 
The  Nizwa  mountain  is  very  lofty,  13,500  feet  is  mentioned  on  the  map, 
and  is  said  to  abound  in  game  and  to  be  aocessible  to  the  very  summit 
on  horseback.  I  was  unable,  however,  to  go  to  the  top,  and  as  the 
weather  was  misty  it  would  not  have  been  worth  while  had  it  been 
practicable.  I  was  told  that  twenty  years  ago  the  Turkomans  used  to 
penetrate  as  far  as  this  valley  and  capture  any  unfortunates  they  could 
lay  their  hands  upon. 

20.  Chashmth  to  Kurrand. — Left  at  5,20,  and  proceeded  over  some  low 
Ifills  south-easterly,  until  w^e  got  to  the  bed  of  the  Kiiria  river.  This  valley 
has  a  breadth  of  cultivation  from  a  quarter  to  halfa-mile  in  width,  and 
trends  westerly,  rising  from  7400  to  8000  feet  in  eight  miles.  At  this 
pointy  where  we  attained  the  Kuria,  another  stream,  coming  from  tho 
Aneseran  pastures  that  extend  up  to  the  high  ridge  separating  them 
from  tho  Shahmirzad  district,  fell  into  the  Kviria ;  and  a  short  distance 
lower  down  the  stream  that  drains  the  Jash  valley  falls  into  it.  Leaving 
then  the  uplands  of  Aneseran  on  our  right,  wo  got,  after  three  hours' 
marching,  to  the  spur  running  down  from  the  Nizwa  mountain,  dividing 
the  Kuria-Tilar  basin  from  the  streams  flowiiig  into  the  Damghdn 
deserts.  This  spur  was  of  gypsum  and  clays.  The  ascent  was  easy, 
and  by  0.30  we  had  reached  the  water-parting,  having  an  elevation  of 
9300  feet.  From  here  Damavand  was  visible.  This  table-land  is  only  a 
few  square  miles  in  extent,  spreading  out  eastwards,  and  is  called  tho 
Khing  plateau.  It  is  frequented  by  the  Sung-i-sin  tribe,  is  well 
watered,  and  the  quality  of  the  pasturage  is  good.  The  map,  as  already 
pointed  out,  is  incorrect  in  representing  this  plateau  as  being  about 
200  square  miles  in  extent;  it  la  certainly  not  more  than  16  to  20  miles, 
being  bounded  to^the  south  by  hills  shutting  it  in,  and  separating  it 
from  the  Shahmirzad  district,  a  district  unnoticed  in  the  map  ;  and  by  a 
bend  to  the  north  from  the  lower  plains  stretching  away  as  a  wilderness 
of  rugged  aridity  towards  Ahuan.    I  had  now  eome  upon  Major  Napier's 


I 
I 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  71 

track,  and  followed  it  as  far  as  Fulhad  Mahala;  thero  being  no 
practicable  outlet  to  the  north  into  a  valley  lying  in  the  direction  of  my 
destination,  at  least  snch  was  my  information  in  the  absence  of  a  properly 
qualified  guide.  Major  Napier's  description  being  minute  and  accurate, 
it  will  be  unnecessary  for  me  to  do  more  than  briefly  chronicle  the  march 
«s  £Ekr  as  Fulhad  Mahala.  Leaving  the  Khing  plateau  we  went  on,  after 
crosaing  two  deep  valleys  with  streams  flowing  from  the  Nizwd  towards 
Damghin,  to  the  Eurrand  pasture.  Here  the  shepherds  were  busy 
hay-making  and  carrying  the  crop  away  to  their  winter-quarters  in 
Masanderan  at  '*Pelver/'  not  very  far  distant  from  this  their  ydak 
or  summer  quarters.  Sheep,  milk,  eggs,  fowls,  fuel,  &c.,  were  obtain- 
able, but  barley  not  readily. 

SI.  Kwrrand  to  Fulhad  Mahala. — It  was  a  cloudy  misty  day  with  a 
keen  north  wind,  so  that  although  mid-July  I  was  glad  to  wear  my 
desk.  We  left  the  comparatively  open  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Eurrand,  and  proceeded  up  the  Huskuh  valley,  and  then  along  a  narrow 
valley  heootmed  in  on  either  side  by  high  hills,  those  to  the  south  having 
oasy  slopes  covered  with  juniper  shrubs,  and  those  to  the  north  presenting 
1  wall  of  bare  rock  for  several  miles  until  the  valley  becomes  more  open 
and  wider;  it  is  then  called  " Besum-Budbar.'*  The  road  to  Fulhad 
Vahala  leaves  the  valley  six  miles  after  passing  the  Felver  gorge,  and 
croesiog  over  the  northern  boundary  and  stretching  along  two  pastures, 
attains  the  spurs  of  the  hills  overhanging  Fulhad  Mahala,  at  about 
1500  feet  above  the  plain.  Along  the  route,  at  distances  of  four  to  five 
miles,  were  black  tent  encampments  of  Mazanderanis,  and  also  of  gipsy 
blacksmiths  and  sieve-makers,  called  "  Tola."  Each  encampment  had  its 
patch  of  barley  or  wheat,  and  the  men  were  busy  harvesting.  At  2  p.m., 
ire  got  to  Fulhad  Mahala,  having  marched  for  nine  hours. 

Fulhad  Mahala  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  wide  extent  of  cultivation, 
irrigated  by  a  karez.  It  is  a  considerable  village  with  perhaps  500 
inhabitants.  The  village  stands  on  a  slight  eminence  and  is  circular  in 
shape,  the  houses  with  flat  roofs  and  mud  walls  clustering  round  the 
central  hillock  on  which  can  be  discerned  the  remains  of  an  ancient  keep. 
Around  the  village  are  some  walled  inclosures ;  and  a  garden  with  tall 
poplars,  called  the  Bagh-i-Sirtip,  after  its  owner,  the  Sirtip  Ibrahim 
Khan,  the  present  Governor  of  Hazar  Jarih,  is  situated  to  the  south- 
west of  the  village.  There  were  no  outlying  villages  visible,  and  the 
hills  all  around  were  bai-e  of  trees  except  just  one  blufif  in  the  north-west, 
where  apparently  the  edge  of  the  great  forests  of  Tabaristan  was  visible. 
The  Shah  Euh  is  a  conspicuous  object  from  Fulhad  Mahala. 

From  Fulhad  Mahala  the  direct  route  to  Ohardeh  is  along  the  valley 
asterly,  vi&  Chashmeh-Ali ;  an  alternative  route  is  vi&  the  parallel 
valley  of  Sir-i-Tang ;   this  route  being  apparently  unknown  to  geo- 
graphers, was  the  one  I  adopted. 

22.  Fulhad  Mahala  to  PmAiH.— Took  us  nine  hours'  marching.    Two 


73 


mSERARTT  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


J 


I 


hours  after  leaving  Fulhad  Mahala  we  reached  the  water-parting  lyin^ 
to  the  norths  after  gradually  ascend ing  from  6500  to  7200  foct.  Beyond 
Ihe  water-parting  the  ground  rises  again,  but  the  road  following  the  _ 
course  of  a  stream  threads  its  way  through  a  gorge  called  the  Tang-i-^ 
rJliBpar.  The  view  of  the  valley  of  Sir-i-Tang  from  the  heights  over- 
hanging the  gorge  is  very  pleasing.  The  valley  is  more  wooded  than 
those  we  had  lately  been  traversing;  several  villages  with  surrounding 
gardens  dotted  the  face  of  the  couritiy  (viz.  Vulua,  Tilma»  Kirat).  The 
drainage  of  the  valley  finds  its  way  out  by  a  gorge  through  its  northern 
boundary  called  the  Taiig-i-Shorab.  The  drainage  from  the  eastern  end 
abounds  in  mineral  springs,  especially  at  Siirt,  whore  sulphurous  sources 
exist,  resorted  to  by  rheumatic  patients. 

On  the  way  to  Pishirt,  a  village  situated  opposite  the  gorge  above*, 
ii.entioned,  we  crossed  Beveral  ravines  covered  with  thick  underwood  of 
wild  pomegranate  and  other  shrubs,  abounding  in  red-legged  partridges, 
Pishirt  is  a  small  village  in  a  large  and  shady  grove  of  walnut-troes» 
with  a  spring  close  by.  This  grove  is  suitable  for  a  small  camp,  and 
reminds  one  of  the  great  mango  groves  of  India. 

23.  Phhirt  io  0iaman-i-Manga.— The  road  leading  ont  of  the  Sir-i' 
Tang  valley  keeps  alongside  and  in  and  out  of  the  course  of  the  main 
stream  flowing  from  noi-th-ea-st  to  south-west.  The  hills  on  each  side 
are  from  300  to  400  feet  higli,  and  are  separated  by  streams  running 
down  from  those  ou  the  south.  These  hills  are  studded  with  siuntcd 
juniper  shrubs.  On  oiie  of  them  is  the  village  of  Kaleh-i-Sir,  or  Kaleh- 
hizar,  containing  at  least  80  houses  or  about  250  to  500  inhabifants. 
There  was  a  good  deal  of  cultivation  about,  every  favourable  spot  being 
under  plough.  We  passed  the  sulphurous  springs  before  mentioned, 
near  the  village  of  Siirt.  The  hills,  or  cliffs  rather,  are  of  gyjisum  and 
marl,  and  this  formation  continues  until,  as  we  gradually  approach  the 
water-parting,  the  hills  on  either  side  diminish  in  altitude.  We 
possed  some  gipsy  encampraenta,  where  the  people  were  occupied  mostly 
in  making  ploughshares  and  other  agricultural  implements.  Perched 
on  a  hill  to  the  north  is  the  village  of  Bddaleh;  judging  from  the 
number  of  houses  it  must  number  from  500  to  700  inhabitants.  W'e 
now  crossed  the  water-parting  and  got  into  a  valley  with  a  %vide  plain 
eloping  down  gently  from  7500  to  6200  feet,  at  the  point  of  junction  with 
the  Chardeh  valley.  The  hills  on  either  side  receded  as  we  advanced,  and 
those  on  the  south  gradually  merged  into  the  parallel  valley  in  which  is 
the  Chashmeh-Ali.  Some  seven  miles  distant  from  the  water-parting  the 
surface  of  the  surrouuding  countiy  was  found  to  be  a  thick  deposit  of 
clay  and  oyster-shells,  one  point  900  feet  above  the  geucial  luvol.  This 
layer  was  cut  up  by  the  labyrinthine  convolutions  of  innumerable 
stream  beds.  Evidently  the  soil  was  saline,  as  nothing  green  is  found 
ou  these  hills.  At  Manga,  however,  there  is  a  copious  spring,  the  water 
of  which  has  created  a  fine  posture  of  several  hundretl  acres  in  extent. 


1 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  73 

Here  we  encamped,  the  only  supplies  procurable  being  milk  from  a  flock 
pasturiog  here.  The  night  was  cold,  a  strong  and  continuous  wind 
blowing  from  the  head  of  the  Sir-i-Tang  valley,  and  nearly  causing  the 
tent  to  fall  over. 

2L  Ckamaii-i-Manga  to  ChardeK — I  found  too  late  that  had  I  hugged 
the  northern  side  of  the  valley  and  marched  via  Tudeh  and  Namak4  I 
ihoald  have  debouched  into  the  Chardeh  valley  close  to  that  village ; 
whereas  I  took  the  main  road,  and  this  led  me  first  along  the  stream 
fioffing  down  into  the  Chardeh  valley,  and  then  leaving  it  and  making 
ft  detour  amongst  the  winding  contours  of  the  low  marly  hills  to  the 
loath,  I  finally  came  out  into  the  Chardeh  valley  proper  at  the  village 
of  Kalateh,  which  is  10  miles  south  of  the  position  of  my  destination. 
Kftlateh  possesses  some  40  to  50  houses  in  two  blocks,  with  walled 
gftidens — mulberry  and  walnut  trees — and  is  watered  by  numerous 
itreamlets  issuing  from  a  brawling  brook  that  comes  out  from  a  cluster 
of  iprings  west  of  the  village.  We  now  turned  to  the  left  and  followed 
the  main  road  leading  from  Chashmeh-Ali  to  Chardeh,  passing  a  broad 
width  of  wheat-laden  fields  and  several  ruined  forts  and  remains  of 
Tillagea  We  left  Chaman-i-Manga  at  5.46  and  got  to  Chardeh  by  9.30, 
putting  up  temporarily  in  the  Bagh-i-Shah.  This  is  one  of  the 
nnmerouB  royal  gardens  to  be  met  with  in  Persia  that  are  allowed  to  go 
to  ruin,  and  intrusted  to  the  care  of  a  gardener  who  is  glad  enough  to 
eke  out  his  scanty  salary  by  accepting  a  small  gratuity  from  any 
traveller  who  desires  to  camp  in  the  garden.  Fath  Ali  Shah  is  credited 
with  having  founded  this  garden,  and  judging  from  the  size  of  the 
ehinar  trees  this  is  probable,  as  their  calibre  denotes  an  existence  of 
ftbout  70  years. 

As  regards  the  village  of  Chardeh  itself,  it  is  now  the  property 
of  Mustafi-ul-Mamalik,  and  is  a  great  depot  for  mules  trading  with 
Khorassan.  The  style  of  the  houses  and  the  dress  of  the  inhabitants  are 
on  the  Irak  model.  A  fine  stream  coming  from  the  snows  of  the  Shah 
Enh  range  rushes  through  the  village,  and  is  subdivided  and  distributed 
by  numerous  side  channels  conveying  the  water  to  the  fields.  The  four 
Tillages  are  disposed  in  a  cluster,  their  distinctive  names  being  Kishash, 
Warzen,  Surdawan,  Kaleh.  They  have  numerous  walled  gardens,  with 
rows  of  poplar  and  willow  trees  and  stunted  mulberries,  and  the 
inevitable  Imamzadehs.  Leaving  Chardeb,  and  taking  the  road  leading 
to  Shah  Kuh  that  enters  a  narrow  valley  north  of  the  village,  we  pro- 
ceeded for  about  four  miles  through  wheat  and  barley  cultivation  until 
the  valley  turned  sharp  to  the  right.  We  then  ascended  to  the  left  by 
%  zigzag  round  a  spur  dividing  the  Caspian  and  Damghdn  basins  as  far 
u  the  Shah  Euh  is  concerned.  The  hills  were  very  bare  all  round 
except  in  the  northerly  direction,  where  we  perceived  them  covered 
with  the  mountainous  stunted  juniper  bushes. 

We  then  descended,  crossed  a  valley  with  a  broad  torrent  bed  coming 

No.  IL—Teb.  1883.]  o 


74 


ITLVKUAUY  NOTES  OF  liOUTE  SURVEYS 


dirocllj  from  the  westernmost  poak  of  the  rugged  summita  of  the  Shah 
Kuh ;  afterwartla  we  turned  up  a  narrow  glen  terminating  at  a  water- 
Bhcd  8600  feet  high,  just  beyond  which  we  found  a  spring  and  encamped, 
having  been  marching  for  eleven  hours. 

2a-  Camp  near  Chardeh  to  Ziarat'i-K'ha8-rud.—^Q-\l^y&  march  was 
equally  long  and  wearisome.  We  had  no  guide,  and  though  wo  did  not 
lose  our  way,  thanks  to  directions  from  wayfarers,  wo  did  not  advance 
BO  briskly  as  we  should  have  done  if  we  had  had  a  qualified  person  to 
show  UB  the  short  cuts.  Our  course  was  easterly  over  the  spura  of  the 
north  side  of  tho  Shah  Kuh,  as  far  as  the  neighbourhood  of  tho  village 
of  Shah-kuh-i-Bala.  Thence  north  to  Charbagh,  a  gipsy  encampnicnt. 
Afterwards  north-west  up  an  ascent  of  2000  feet  to  tho  water-parting 
looking  over  the  vast  steppes  to  tho  north.  From  that  water-parting 
at  an  elevation  of  9700  feet  we  descended  to  5700  feet,  and  encamped  at 
0  P.M.  after  thirteen  hours'  marching,  men  and  beasts  thoroughly 
exhausted. 

Our  way  over  the  northern  spurs  of  the  Shah  Kuh  was  through 
a  sparse  jungle  of  juniper  bushes.     The  road  was  pretty  fair  and  pass- 
able for  guns,  except  the  2000  feet  ascent  before  mentioned.     The  view 
of  the  Shah  Kuh  mountain  is  very  grand ;  it  presents  a  wall  of  rock, 
furrowed,  pinnacled,  and  practically  inaccessible  from  about  11,500  feet 
to  the  general  level  of  the  eutamits,  probably  about  12,500  feet.     This 
cliff  rises  sheer  from  the  juniper-covered  talus  which  forma  the  flanks  of 
the  mountain.     An  outer  wall  of  the  same  rock  that  forms  tho  summits, 
a  dolomite  apparently,  rises  from  the  general  slope  of  the  talus.     At 
about  two  miles  from  the  main  mountain,  and  through  breaches  in  its  _ 
length  here  and  there,  tho  mountain  streams  issue  out  to  the  lower  H 
valleys.     Tho  village  of  Shah  Kuh  Pain  (lower)  is  situated  just  behind 
this  outer  wall,  between  it  and  the  mountain.     I  did  not  actually  visit 
the  village,  as  it  lies  out  of  the  direct  route,  but  we  saw  it  at  a  distance.  ■ 
A  Russian  naturalist,  a  professor  at  the  University  of  Dorpat,  M.  Peter- 
son, was  staying  at  Shah  Kuh  Pain,     I  met  him  aftern'ards  at  Astrabad. 
H©  reports  the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  Shah  Kuh  range  as  scanty  and  not  ■] 
of  much  interest.     There  was  considerable  cultivation  about  Shah  Kuh 
and  in  the  lower  valley's;  but  the  iiills  are,  generally  speaking,  of  the 
usual  characteristic  Persian  mountain  scenery,  viz.  remarkable  for  their 
bareness.    Walls  of  rock  and  stretches  of  down  and  valley  speckled  over 
with  juniper  shrubs  form  tho  stock  characteristics  of  the  scenery  until 
the  water-parting  is  reached.   We  crossed  the  road  leading  from  Hajiabad 
to  Shahrud  i>ursued  by  Major  Napier,  and  described  by  him.     Then  _ 
crossing  a  low  watershed  we  came  to  a  stretch  of  grass  and  i>a8ture  land  ■ 
along  the  banks  of  a  stream.     Here  a  tower  and  some  inclosures  8tan<l, 
called  Charbagh.     From  thence,  by  a  winding,  steep,  but  not  rugged 
path,  we  ascended  2000  feet  up  to  the  great  water-parting,  and  reached  Hj 
it  at  2 .  30  P.M.   Here  the  aspect  of  the  landscape  changed  as  if  by  magic. 


I 

I 


IN  NOBTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  76 

Instead  of  the  monotony  and  aridity  we  had  experienced  since  leaving 
Mekhs&s,  we  saw,  beginning  at  an  altitude  about  800  feet  below  us,  a 
dsDM  and  variegated  forest  of  splendid  elm,  oak,  and  beech ;  this,  with 
occasional  stretches  of  vivid  green  sward  interspersed  amongst  the  thick 
masses  of  trees,  clothed  the  mountains  down  to  the  margin  of  the 
boundless  steppe  which  extended  like  the  ocean  until  lost  in  the  misty 
disfcanoe.     The  change  was  to  my  mind  most  pleasing  and  refreshing  ; 
but  strange  to  say  my  Persian  servants  and  the  muleteers  were  dif- 
ferently impressed,  and  seemed  completely  insensible  to  the  charm  of 
the  sylvan  scenery.    We  left  the  water-parting,  and  after  descending 
bjr  a  gently  sloping  road  to  about  8900  feet  elevation,  the  forest  com- 
nenoed.      We  passed  a  spring  of  deliciously  icy-cold   water  called 
Cbashmeh  Siah  Eaneh,  and  at  about  4  p.m.  reached  an  open  space 
bom.  whence  a  view  of  the  shingled  roofs  of  the  village  of  Ziarat  was 
obtainable.     The  road  after  this  was  very  bad,  exceedingly  steep, 
exoessively   muddy,  and  dangerously  slippery;    but   the   scenery  of 
gradually   increasing  depth  of  forest  and  underwood  was  of  great 
beauty.     Finally,  as  one  of  our  party  had  not  rejoined  after  being  sent 
to  Shah  Euh  for  a  guide,  I  decided  not  to  attempt  to  reach  Ziarat, 
but  to  encamp  on  the  first  favourable  ground,  which  we  reached  at 
5.30  P.M. 

26.  Ziarat  to  A$trahad. — The  next  morning  early  we  proceeded  down- 
wards until  we  reached  the  main  stream  draining  the  valley.     This  we 
followed  for  about  two  miles  until  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  hill  upon 
which  Ziarat-i-Kh^s-rud  is  built.     This  village  now  consists  of  eighty 
bouses,  built  mostly  of  mud  and  wattle,  and  roofed  with  shingle.    The 
villagers  own  large  herds  of  cows  and  flocks  of  sheep,  and  are  tolerably 
wealthy.  They  also  rear  bees  and  derive  profit  by  the  sale  of  very  excellent 
boney.    Ziarat  has  a  sulphurous  spring,  and  being  at  an  elevation  of 
3900  feet,  and  only  two  and  a  half  hours'  ride  from  Astrabad,  is  much 
fiequented  by  the  merchants  of  that  town  during  the  summer.    The 
Kbib-rud  flows  on  for  about  eight  miles  through  a  most  picturesque  glen 
covered  with  forest,  until  it  debouches  into  the  easier  sloping  ground. 
Tbere  a  canal  takes  o£f  a  portion  of  the  water  to  some  villages  east  of 
Aitrabad.    The  main  stream  then  maintains  its  course,  furnishing  a 
mill-stream  that  passes  through  Astrabad,  and  continuing  also  in  its 
natnial  bed  and  passing  west  of  that  town.    We*  reached  Astrabad  at 
10  AJi.,  having  been  thirty-one  days  en  route, 

II.  Feom  Astrabad  to  Shaheud. 

I  subsequently  surveyed  the  country  lying  between  Astrabad  and 
Sbahrud.  These  two  points  have  been  astronomically  fixed  by  Lemm, 
and  as  his  observations  are  probably  correct  I  assume  the  difierenco 
of  latitude  to  be  25'  39".    I  adopted  the  scale  0*89  of  an  inch  per  statute 


76 


ITLVERAKY"  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


I 


\ 


mile.  The  object  of  the  survey  was  to  map  out  the  fpaturca  of  the 
intermodiato  district  tbrougli  wbich  the  telegraph  line  and  the  postal 
road  pass. 

1  commenced  operations  by  pitching  my  camp  in  iho  neighbonrhood 
of  AstralMid  on  some  low  hills  to  tho  south.  These  lower  spurs  of 
the  lofty  mountains  nine  miles  south  of  Astrabad  are  densely  clothed 
■with  forest.  On  one  of  these  hills,  called  Sir  Derwarzeh,  I  stayed  a  few 
daj'8  in  July,  the  breeze  from  the  Caspian  being  a  pleasant  change  from 
Astrabad.  Near  Sir  Derwarzeh  there  is  a  sulphurous  spring  mucli 
frequented  by  Astrabadis  suffering  from  cutaneous  aifections.  Thursday 
is  a  favourite  day  for  these  visits.  The  water  from  the  spring  is  con- 
ducted into  shallow  reservoirs  in  which  patients  bathe^  the  water  having 
been  warmed  by  means  of  stones  highly  heated  and  thrown  in. 

From  Sir  Derwarzeh  I  shifted  camp  to  Kiarat,  about  10  miles  from 
Astrabad,  Owing  to  the  persistent  dry  wea,ther^  the  annual  burning  of 
the  thorn  thickets  growing  in  the  vicinity  of  Astrabad  assumed  this 
season  quite  the  proportions  of  a  conflagration.  It  was  with  difficulty 
we  could  force  our  way  at  certain  points  of  the  road  through  tho 
flames  on  either  ei"3e,  I  noticed  that  many  of  the  yew  telegraph- 
posts  were  fiercely  burning.  The  road  from  Astrabad  to  Kiarat  is  fiat, 
but  wretched,  like  all  communications  near  Astrabad.  The  farmers  are  ■ 
no  respecters  of  roads,  and  whenever  their  fancy  leads  them  to  think 
ploughing  up  the  de facto  highway  will  be  advantageous,  they  do  so; 
travellers  have  then  to  devise  some  other  path,  and  get  along  in  the  best 
fashion  they  can. 

Kiarat  is  a  scries  of  wide  commons  or  pastures  at  the  entrance  of  the 
pass  into  the  mountains.  This  pass  is  called  tho  Kuzluk.  At  ono  of 
these  pastures  at  the  entrauce  of  the  pass  my  tent  was  pitched;  the 
temperature  was  c<insiderably  lower  than  at  Astrabad,  and  there  was  a 
delightful  absence  of  mosquitos.  The  scenery  was  stiil  sylvan,  as  it  is 
up  to  the  top  of  the  Kuzluk.  The  march  from  Kiarat  to  tho  pastures 
at  Aliabad,  three  miles  from  the  water-parting  (7C0O  feet),  is  too  long; 
it  is  best  to  lireak  the  journey  by  halting  at  Beland  Sefaleh.  On 
leaving  Kiarat  the  road  lies  through  the  ibrest,  forming  a  wide  and 
umbrageous  avenue.  We  passed  through  the  portion  of  the  valley  called 
Garm  Dasht,  where  a  number  of  gipsies  had  pitched  their  tents.  They 
generally  employ  themselves  as  blacksmiths  and  sieve-makers. 

The  scenery  along  the  road,  winding  as  it  follows  the  torrents  through 
these  forest-clad  hills,  is  grand.  Tho  wealth  of  timber  is  enormous ;  but 
communications  and  means  of  transport  are  so  defective  that  these  riches 
are  utterly  unavailable. 

The  actual  ascent  of  the  kotul  of  Kuzluk  begins  at  an  elevation  of 
3450  feet.  The  road  was  formed  Kixteen  years  ago  by  General  Biihler,  of 
the  Persian  service.  It  is  not  passable  for  horsed  guns,  but  at  the  dato 
above-mentioned  and  since,  guns  have  been  brought  across,  dragged  by 


I 


I 


IX  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  77 

l)UidB  of  villagers,  and  lately  some  four-wheeled  fonrgons  of  the  German 
type,  crossed  on  their  way  to  Ghikislar  from  Meshed,  where  they  had 
carried  pilgrims  from  the  Caucasus  viA  Tehran.  At  an  elevation  of 
4700  feet  a  stratum  of  gypsum  is  met  with ;  and  a  little  higher,  a  small 
aeni  called  Robat«i-Euzluk.  Beland  Sefaleh,  where  there  is  a  spring,  is 
niehed  at  5200  feet.  There  is  an  open  down  suitable  for  camping.  At 
la  elevation  of  7200  feet,  just  before  reaching  the  summit  of  the  pass, 
mother  rabai  is  reached,  very  useful  for  travellers  during  the  winter, 
vben  great  cold  and  deep  snow  prevail. 

On  reaching  the  top,  the  valley  of  Aliabad  and  Charbagh  hemmed  in 

ly  the  Lareh  and  Lendi  mountains  to  the  north,  and  by  the  range  of  the 

Siih  Knh  to  the  south,  spreads  out,  descending  from  7600  feet,  the  level 

of  the  water-parting,  to  7100  feet  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Charbagh.  The 

loenery  changes  as  if  by  magic,  and  the  traveller,  if  acquainted  with  the 

general  aspect  of  Persian  landscape,  realises  that  he  is  indeed  in  the 

Itnd  of  Iran,  so  different  in  appearance  from  the  Caspian  provinces. 

The  valley  presents  a  dull,  uniform,  yellow-ochre  tint,  mitigated  by  a 

iptne  sprinkling  of  funereaRooking  yews,  and  hummocks  of  heather  and 

thistles.    Patches  of  verdure  where  some  springs  occur  at  Aliabad,  and 

I  fev  fields  of  stunted  barley  near  a  serai  called  Bobat>i-Sufid,  are  the 

coly  evidences  of  life  in  this  dreary  valley  that  impresses  the  traveller 

after  journeying  through  the  gorgeous  forest  scenery  of  the  Caspian 

littoral.    I  must  remark,  however,  that  on  my  return  from  Shahrud  I 

thought  this  valley  of  Aliabad  an  improvement  on  the  country  I  had 

lately  traversed.     Aliabad  is  now  only  a  pasture ;  the  nearest  hamlet  is 

Chirkhaueh.     Its  elevation  is  7300  feet,  and  on  the  31st  July  it  was  so 

cold  at  night  that  ice  was  formed  in  all  the  vessels  in  camp  that  contained 

water.    I  stayed  a  day  at  Aliabad  and  ascended  the  Lareh  mountain 

(8600  feet),  from  whence  I  obtained  a  good  view  of  Astrabad  and  of  the 

village  of  Ziarat,  where  the  dining  tent  of  the  Eussian  Consul  formed  a 

conspicuous  object.     Clouds,  however,  coming  on,  brought  the  survey 

to  a  close  for  that  day. 

On  the  next  day  I  sent  the  camp  and  followers  by  the  Jaling  Miling 
Pass  (7900  feet),  to  Haft  Cheshmeh  (8000  feet),  and  I  went  to  the  top 
of  Pir  Girdu  Kuh  (10,500  feet),  from  whence  Astrabad  was  visible  and 
the  high  peaks  all  round.  At  the  summit  of  this  mountain  are  several 
cairns,  upon  which  are  deposited  votive  offerings,  consisting,  as  is  cus- 
tomary, of  copper  ornaments  called  JeaTidil.  These  are  strung  on  a  cord, 
and  suspended  to  the  bough  of  a  tree  if  there  be  one  at  the  shrine,  or 
•imply  laid  on  the  cairns,  as  in  thid  instance. 

I  remarked  on  this  peak,  and  on  all  high  peaks  I  subsequently 
visited,  that  the  hand  of  the  inquisitive  alchemist  had  been  at  work. 
Erery  peak  bore  evidence,  by  numerous  holes  dug  about,  that  a  diligent 
search  for  hidden  treasures  had  been  made.  It  is  a  very  prevalent  idea 
amongst  Persians  that  the  presence  of  hidden  treasures  can  bor  asoer- 


78 


inNEKARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


I 


I 


tamed  by  certain  quasi  magic  arts,  especially  hj  virtue  of  a  certain  herb 
found  on  the  mountains.  Shepherds  and  others^  when  anxious  to  know 
what  I  was  about  and  what  the  paraphernalia  of  the  plane-table  meant, 
were  perfectly  satisfied  hy  the  reply  of  my  survey  porters  that  I  was 
looking  for  this  wonderful  lierl) — for  this  AUf-l-kimiat  as  they  call  it. 

Haft  Choshmeh  conBiats  of  a  series  of  patches  of  pasturage  through 
which  a  Htream  from  the  northern  flank  of  the  Shahwar  mountain  runs 
towards  Charbagh.  From  one  of  these  spots,  where  I  pitched  camp,  to 
near  Taah,  formed  the  next  march,  by  way  of  the  Wajmanii  Pafl* 
(9000  feet),  and  thence  along  a  stream  flowing  south  until  its  junction 
with  the  waterHSOuree  that  runs  past  Tash»  distant  about  one  mile.  The 
rooks  adjacent  being  perfectly  bare,  it  was  easy  to  see  they  were  com- 
posed of  marls,  shales,  and  bands  of  sandstone.  There  are  deposits  also 
of  fullers'  earth,  very  white  and  not  unlike  chalk  in  appearance.  At 
Tash  (7700  feet)  there  is  a  telegraph  office,  as  interruptions*  during  the 
winter  are  frequent.  The  Persian  telegraphist  stationed  thei-e  com- 
plained  bitterly  of  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  and  the  monotony  of  I 
existence;  it  is  doubtless  looked  upon  as  a  penal  station.  There  are 
about  fifty  house*  with  two  hammams.  Fuel  is  scarce,  so  are  wheat  and 
barley.  The  wealth  of  the  villagers  consists  in  their  flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats ;  but  these,  instead  of  being  at  Iiand,  had  been  compelled  by  the 
dryness  of  the  soason  to  seek  pasture  on  the  Kalposh  plateaus,  now  safe 
from  Turkoman  raiders. 

The  junction  of  the  Tash  stream  with  that  flowing  from  the  west 
along  the  Chalchilian  Pass  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  south 
of  where  I  pitched  camp  as  described,  and  is  called  the  Doub.  A  small 
serai  exists  there  and  some  patches  of  cultivation.  I  noticed  lucerne 
growing  here;  it  cannot  be  got  to  grow  favourably  at  Astrabad.  About 
two  miles  lower  down  stream  through  the  defile  called  the  Dahan-i-Tash, 
or  the  Rock's  Mouth,  there  is  another  small  serai  called  Robat-i-Tijir. 

At  this  point  we  emerged  on  to  a  fine,  broad,  flat  valley,  hideously 
barren  and  sterile.  It  is  about  12  miles  long  by  from  two  to  five  broad, 
eventually  merging  to  the  east  into  the  plain  of  Bostam.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  south  by  arid  and  precipitous  limestone  hills  of  the  Tapal  range, 
and  on  the  north  by  the  easier  slopes  of  the  grand  Shah  war  mountain. 

A  small  village  has  lately  been  built  close  to  Eubat-i-Tijir  called 
Kaleh  Noa,  at  the  foot  of  the  Shentu  hill,  the  end  peak  of  a  spur  from 
the  Shah  Kuh.  I  am  told  there  is  a  cave  on  the  north  side  of  this  hill 
where  stalactites  are  found — a  proof  perhaps  of  a  luuister  climate  in 
bygone  ages  than  at  present, 

I  may  here  observe  that  the  change  in  the  hygrometric  conditions  of 
the  atmosphere  is  immediately  perceptible  on  passing  the  Wajmanu 
Pass ;  the  dryness  of  the  air  makes  itself  disagreeably  evident,  by  one's 
nails  splitting,  and  by  tho  drjmess  of  the  throat  and  nose  which  is 
produced. 


I 


4 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSU,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  79 

From  the  highest  peak  of  Shah  Euh,  reputed  to  be  13,500  feet,  a  spur 
tioids  to  the  Bouth-east  terminating  at  Shahmd,  and  another  mns  east 
tenninating  at  Ealeh  Noa.  The  former  is  the  Tapal  range,  the  latter 
the  Shento.  In  the  apex  between  them,  amidst  the  ramifications  of  the 
lover  spurs,  are  the  villages  of  Mojin  and  Tazrf. 

llajor  Napier  describes  the  road  from  Tijir  to  Eelateh  towards 
ghihrad  as  waterless.    This  is  strictly  the  case  as  regards  the  road ; 
htsoath  of  it,  a  little  distance  across  the  dry  bed  of  the  main  water- 
(oune,  there  is  a  canal  with  an  abundant  supply  of  fresh  water,  derived 
bm  the  Dahan-i-Tash.    Near  the  ruins  of  Mahamadabad  (5900  feet)  a 
ciuin  of  karezM  commences,  and  three  miles  east  of  this  is  the  small 
Tillage  of  Eelateh  (5150  feet).    On  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  at  the 
nooths  of  glens  of  the  magnificent  Shahwar  mountain,  are  the  villages  of 
5iktiamand,'AveTsin,  Mogan,  and  Deh  Ehail.    The  town  of  Bostam  lies 
iboat  five  miles  from  the  outer  low  hills  of  the  Shahwar,  encompassed 
hj  orchards,  gardens,  and  fields,  watered  by  karezes  and  by  the  canal 
abore  mentioned.    Some  of  the  karezes  are  very  deep  underground,  the 
dttfis  being  sunk  400  feet  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Eelateh.    Bostam  is 
the  seat  of  government  of  a  not  inconsiderable  province.    The  present 
goreinor  is  Mirza  Bakir,  a  subordinate  of  the  Mustafi-ul-Mamalik.    The 
town  of  Bostam  is  rectangular,  inclosed  by  high  mud  walls,  with  towers 
tt  intervals ;  a  portion  being  occupied  by  a  citadel  or  arg.    The  existing 
defences  are  sufScient  to  repel  Turkoman  inroads,  which  are  now  happily 
foppressed,  but  thirty  years  ago  these  adventurous  marauders  traversed 
the  open  plain  of  Bostam  in  all  directions,  raiding  and  carrying  off  flocka 
and  herds,  the  timid  villagers  not  venturing  to  cut  off  their  retreat :   so- 
daring  were  they,  that,  leaving  the  plains,  they  penetrated  into  the 
mountains  to  Tash  and  the  village  of  Shah-kuh-i-Bala.    It  is  incon- 
ceivable,  considering  with  what  perfect  ease  the  approach^  to  these 
places  can  be  defended,  how  these  outrages  could  have  occurred;  the 
condusion  seems  to  indicate  not  so  much  Turkoman  valour  or  prowess- 
aa  Persian  cowardice,  timidity,  and  want  of  union. 

At  Bostam  I  visited  a  remarkable  brick-tower  of  ancient  date.  Ita 
architecture  strongly  resembles  that  of  the  Eotul  Minar  at  Delhi,  having,, 
like  it  in  plan,  a  polygonal  outline  of  salient  angles.  It  is,  however, 
only  50  or  60  feet  high ;  the  cupola  has  been  ruined,  but  it  has  a  frieze 
OT  cornice  of  terra-cotta  tiles  with  Eufic  inscriptions  in  relievo,  each 
tile  bearing  a  distinct  impression.  A  complete  copy  of  these  would  pro- 
bably furnish  the  cue  to  the  history  of  this  remarkable  monument.  Two 
impressions  were  taken  by  Consul  Bakouline  some  years  ago ;  but  a 
jierfect  set  is  requisite  to  elucidate  its  history.  There  may  possibly  be 
200  separate  tiles.  I  also  visited  the  shrines  of  the  Imamzadeh  Mahamad 
and  of  Sultan  Biazid,  not  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  but  a  chief  of  a  sect  of 
dervishes.  These  buildings  that  are  ornamented  with  some  Kathi 
tiling  are  about  300  years  old.  Close  by  is  a  Minar,  curious  for  possessing 


80 


niSERARY  NOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVETS 


tliti  Bamo  property  that  makes  tlie  sliaking  towers  of  lapaliaa  faraoua. 
When  Bhaken  by  a  man  standing  at  the  top,  it  oacillateB  and  vibrates 
euflSoiently  to  cans©  a  brick»  placed  on  the  edge  of  the  cornice,  to  fall. 
It  is  about  35  feet  high  and  G  feet  diameter  at  base,  tapering  gently 
upwards.  This  curious  vibratory  property  is  attributed  at  Bostam*  as 
it  is  at  Ispahan,  to  miraculoua  interposition  of  the  local  saint.  It  is  of 
course  due  to  the  elasticity  of  the  bricks  and  cement  used,  the  latter 
becoming  more  elastic  by  age ;  and  it  is  not  more  curious  than  the 
phenomena  presented  by  slaba  of  elastic  sandstone  found  in  various  parts 
of  the  world. 

Bostam  has  seen  its  best  days  many  years  ago;  aUhongh  still  the 
seat  of  government,  it  is  completely  eclipsed  in  importance  by  Shahrud. 
This  town  has  much  increased  since  I  visited  it  in  1872.  Much  of  what 
then  was  garden  has  been  built  over.  A  new  bazaar  with  100  shops 
has  lately  been  built  by  Abdul  Kasim,  a  merchant  of  Astrabad.  There 
are  now  sis  Russian-Armenian  firms,  who  own  some  rude  cotton  pressea, 
using  them  to  press  the  bales  sent  from  Subzewar  and  other  districts. 
The  bales  aro  afterwards  taken  by  mules  and  camels  via  the  Chalchilian 
Pass  along  the  Nikah  river  to  Gez,  and  there  shipped  to  Astrakhan. 
Shahrud  now  possesses  a  post  office  and  a  telegraph  office,  from  which 
the  wires  to  Meshed  and  to  Astrabad  aro  led. 

Shahrud,  at  the  time  I  visited  it,  was  veiy  hot ;  it  was  filled  with 
pilgriras  going  to  Mealied,  There  was  a  regiment  from  Tabriz  encamped 
there  also  on  their  way  to  Meshed.  Some  Indian  pilgrims  who  called 
on  me  related  how  the  soldiers  pillaged  right  and  left  on  the  march  from 
Tehran. 

The  villagers  at  Shahrud  are  far  more  industrious  than  those  about 
Astrabad,  where  nature  is  so  productive  that  labour  is  almost  superfluous. 
At  Shahrud  nothing  grows  but  by  dint  of  digging,  delving,  manuring, 
iind  iiTigating;  consequently  habits  of  industiy  have  been  developed, 
and  the  result  is  that  the  fruit  and  cereals  about  Shahrud  are  far  finer 
than  those  of  Astrabad,  to  which  place  they  aro  exported. 

For  threshing  com,  instead  of  the  usual  method  of  treading  it  out 
with  four  or  five  ponies  made  to  circle  round  and  round  over  a  heap  of 
straw,  they  use  a  sort  of  trolly  with  fans  aionnd  two  axles,  and  two 
iron  circular  cutters.  The  husbandman  sits  on  this  contrivance,  which 
is  drawn  by  a  couple  of  mules  or  ponies.  It  not  only  threshes  oat  the 
c<jm,  bnt  effectually  breaks  up  the  straw  for  fodder.  The  machine 
costs  about  eight  or  ten  shilliogs.  I  pitched  camp  in  the  Sipar  Salar's 
garden.  The  garden  where  the  Sistan  Special  Mission  encamped  ten 
years  ago,  has  now  been  built  over. 

On  my  return  towards  Astrabad  from  Bostam  I  put  up  for  one  night 
at  Nikaramand,  a  small  dilapidated  village  at  the  foot  of  the  Shah  war 
mountain.  It  is  at  an  altitude  of  7050  feet.  The  air  was  cool  and 
pleasant.      The  village  belongs  to  Ali  Khan  Agha,  the  head  of  tho 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882.  81 

AstiaWi  Eajars,  who  is  a  rich  old  man  owning  a  good  deal  of  property 
aboat  Astrabad.  He  complained  much  of  the  season,  and  said  he  had 
lost  a  great  deal  by  failure  of  the  rice  crop  and  the  general  dryness.  He 
is  not  considered  a  good  landlord  by  his  villagers.  From  this  village  I 
piooeeded  the  next  day  along  the  base  of  the  Shahwar  until  we  reached 
iglen,  up  which  we  ascended  to  a  spring  called  Dehi,  at  an  elevation  of 
8S00  feet.  Here  I  pitched  camp  to  enable  me  to  ascend  to  the  summit 
ud  return  before  sunset. 

The  ascent  up  to  12,500  feet  was  not  difficult.    I  rode  on  a  mule 
all  the  way.     The  path  led  us  to  the  western  face  of  the  mountain 
ftm  which  the  village  of  Tash  and  the  peaks  of  the  Shah  mountains, 
together  with  Mounts  Pirgirdu  and  Lareh,  and  all  their  lower  spurs, 
were  plainly  visible.    The  ground  was  slightly  covered  with  reddish 
otrl  and  debris  of  the  limestone  rock  of  which  the  huge  mass  is  com- 
posed, and  showed  the  pulverising  eflfects  of  the  winter  frosts  very 
larkedly.    On  our  way  to  the  summit  we  disturbed  a  herd  of  fifteen 
aomtain  sheep,  who  on  our  approach  bounded  down  the  precipice 
towiids  Tash.    Usually  there  are  great  numbers  of  these  animals,  but 
(nringto  the  want  of  verdure  this  year  they  have  migrated  to  the  edge  of 
the  Caspian  forests.    From  the  top,  where  I  hoped  to  have  had  a  view  of 
Astrabad,  I  found,  to  my  regret,  thick  clouds  lying  all  over  the  Turkoman 
fteppe,  but  to  the  south,  Shahrud,  and  Boetam,  and  the  desolate  salt  desert 
of  Damgh^n  were  clearly  seen.     The  temperature  at  2  p.m.  was  about 
40'  under  a  bright  sun.     I'ho  descent  on  foot  to  our  camp  at  Dehi  occupied 
ibout  two  hours,  and  en  route  we  saw  herds  of  mountain  sheep,  or 
3koA,  numbering  28  head.    The  next  day  we  descended  by '  a  rugged 
path  leading  westwards,   rejoining   the  main  road  at  Bobat-i-Tijir. 
Thence  we  went  to  Tash,  where  I  explored  the  coal-mines  mentioned 
in  Major  Napier's  report.    I  found  the  locality  was  about  li  mile  from 
the  village  of  Tash,  on  the  north  of  the  main  stream  running  from  the 
sommits  of  the  Shahwar  mountain.    It  was  first  brought  to  the  vil- 
hgers'  knowledge  after  a  heavy  landslip  had  occurred,  a  convulsion 
vhich  brought  to  light  the  seams  of  coal.    The  Bussians  about  fifteen 
w  twenty  years  ago  investigated  this  source  of  fuel  with  a  view  to 
possible   utilisation  for  steamers    on    the    Caspian,  but  the  superior 
advantages  of  refuse   naphtha   for  fuel   have  destroyed  all   interest 
in  these  mines  for  that  purpose.     I  had  a  brisk  fire  of  drift-wood  made 
to  test  the  combustibility  of  the  mineral ;  on  this  I  placed  several  pieces 
of  coal,  obtained  by  digging  into  the  seam  for  about  two  feet,  to  avoid 
using  material  that  had  been  weathered.     The  coal  smoked,  but  never 
ignited  properly,  although  the  conditions  were  not  unfavourable.    I 
therefore  think  these  seams,  like  those  I  also  saw  near  the  village 
of  Shah-kuh-i-Bala,  are  beds  of  lignite.    Doubtless  in  combination  with 
other  fuel  and  with  proper  precautions,  its  combustion  is  practicable ;  but 
for  ordinary  use  by  the  villagers  for  heating  their  hammam,  or  lime- 


82 


ITINERARY  KOTES  OF  ROUTE  SURVEYS 


I 


bnromg^  I  fear  my  suggestion  to  the  KedkJioda  of  Tash  to  make  a  trial 
will  result  in  failure. 

From  Tash  my  camp  went  by  the  eapy  road  over  the  Chalchilian  to 
oj)posite  the  village  of  8hah-kuh-i-Bala.  The  path  I  followed  over 
the  hills  to  the  south  of  the  road  was  diflBcult  of  ascent  until  the  plateau 
was  reached.  The  country  is  sparsely  studded  with  juniper  or  yew 
trees^  some  of  considerable  size.  The  air  too  felt  less  diy  than  towards 
Shahnid.  The  village  of  Shali-kuh-i-Bala  is  situated  at  a  height  of 
8200  feet  above  the  sea,  and  above  the  level  of  the  stream  running  at  tho  | 
foot  of  the  glen,  on  which  its  50  to  80  houses  are  grouped.  The 
winter  is  very  severe  here,  and  the  villagers*  crops  this  year  nearly  all 
failed;  fuel  has  also  to  be  brought  from  a  distance,  and  lately  "fluke'*  M 
has  played  havoc  with  their  flocks;  consequently  many  have  migrated 
temporarily  to  more  genial  habitations  nearer  Astrabad. 

From  Shah-kuh-i-Bala  I  deBcended  into  the  Charlagh  valley,  and 
crofising  it  ascended  the  Larch  Mountains^  passing  over  into  the  Ziarat 
valley  by  a  pass  at  a  level  of  &200  feet.  The  head  of  this  vaUey  is 
bare,  the  rock  being  marls  and  limestone  ;  but  at  the  level  of  8500  feet 
the  thick  forest  begins,  chiefly  oak,  succeeded  by  beeches,  elms,  sycamores, 
maples,  &q.  The  road  down  to  Ziarat  crosses  the  main  spui-  of  the  Lareli 
lIountaiuH,  passing  by  two  clearings,  one  called  Siah  Kaneh  (7700  feet) 
and  the  other  Sherbctt.  The  latter  is  a  corruption  of  Shuhr-i-But,  so 
called  from  eomo  ruins  found  here  which  legend  pretends  belong  to  the 
time  of  fire-worshipperfi. 

I  encamped  at  Siah  Kaneh,  and  sent  the  camp  next  morning  direct 
to  Ziarat,  myself  retracing  my  steps  to  the  pass,  and  thence  going  on  to  ■ 
Mount  Lendi,  taking  bearings^  The  valleys  to  the  west  presented  here 
and  there  great  stretches  of  fine  pasture  land,  ordinarily  affording  heavy 
crops  of  bay,  but  this  year  they  were  quite  brown  and  tunit  up.  The 
stretch  of  country  to  the  west  between  the  Ziarat  valley  and  the  Jehau 
Naraeh  peak  is  net  well  known,  and  would  require  a  fortnight's  survey 
to  clear  up.  I  followed  a  path  to  Ziarat  passing  by  Bazi-kash  pasture, 
and  descending  by  a  difficult  pass  directly  west  of  the  vUlage,  where 
I  found  the  Russian  Consul  and  his  fumily.  The  village  of  Ziarat 
ia  distant  three  to  three  and  a  half  hours'  ride  from  Astrabad,  and  is 
about  3400  feet  higher  than  that  town.  This  diflerence  of  elevation 
makes  the  climate  agreeable,  the  temperature  being  from  12  to  15°  Fahr. 
lower  than  at  Astrabad.  At  night  a  steady  breeze  blows  from  the  Lareb 
Mountains  to  the  south,  and  about  7  or  8  a.m.  the  sea  breeze  sets  in, 
although  the  valley  itself  has  no  outlet  directly  open  to  the  Caspian ;  but 
the  cooler  sea  air,  with  or  without  clouds,  finds  its  way  up  the  windings 
of  the  Kasu  Rud,  on  which  stands  the  shrine  of  Abdullah,  from  which 
the  village  takes  its  name  of  Ziarat.  It  is  an  ancient  village  for  Persia ; 
I  have  seen  the  charters  granted  to  the  keepers  of  the  shrine  by  Shah 
Sultan  Ljmail  (a.d.  1580),  and  also  by  Shah  Suliman.     The  charter  or 


I 


IN  NORTHERN  PERSIA,  IN  1881  AND  1882. 


83 


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Bi  MR.  DURNFORD'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  TATACOMA. 

firman  granted  by  the  latter  was  quite  legible,  andtli©  stylo  differed  not 
greatly  from  wkat  would  now  be  written;  but  tlio  firman  of  Sultan 
Ismail  was  illegible  by  anybody  at  Ziarat,  altliough,  besides  the  consular 
niunshw,  there  were  several  "learned"  men  who  had  taken  up  their 
abode  in  the  village  to  avoid  not  only  the  heat  of  Astrabad  but  the 
plague  of  moaquitos,  and  to  e«capo  fever  which  was  there,  as  usual, 
intensely  prevalent. 

In  conclusion,  aa  regards  the  geology  of  the  tract  of  conntry 
represented  by  the  accompanying  map,  I  am  incompetent  to  give 
more  than  doubtful  information.  It  appeared  to  mo  that  the  ]inmary 
rotks  are  absent ;  I  met  no  traces  of  granite  or  trap.  I  think  all 
the  rocks  are  secondary:  the  summits  generally  of  compact  limestone; 
the  valleys  of  strata  of  marls,  sandstone,  and  shales.  I  found  in  the 
shale  at  Ilaft  Choshmeh,  oo  the  south  side,  the  impressions  of  leaves  of 
plants.  In  the  limestone  forming  the  peak  of  Lendi  Mount  are  imbedded 
greut  numbera  of  Belemnites.  It  seems  to  me  the  section  of  the  rocks 
from  Astrabad  to  Shah  Kuh  peak  is  as  shown  above,  p.  83. 

The  discussion  which  fullowed  the  reading  of  the  above  paper  will  appear  ia  the 
next  number  of  the  '  IVocet'dings.' 


Mr.  Durnford's  Ex^hraiion&  in  Central  Faiagania. 

Among  the  recently  discovered  papers  of  the  late  Mr,  Henry  Duraford, 
an  oniithologist,  who  died  in  1878  during  an  exploring  expedition  in 
Central  South  America^  were  some  notes  on  a  second  visit  made  by  him 
to  the  Welsh  colony  of  Chupat,  in  Eastern  Central  Patagonia,  during 
the  autumn  of  1877,  and  which  are  evidently  the  base  of  the  accounts 
referred  to  in  the  note  to  p.  47  of  Petermann's  '  Mittheilungen,'  vol. 
xxviii,  (1882),  as  sent  by  that  gentleman  and  Mr.  Thomas  to  the  Argen- 
tine Ministry,  hitherto  unpublished.  These  have  now  been  inserted  b}' 
his  brother  in  the  Field  uewspajter  for  23rd  and  30th  December  last, 
and  contain  some  interesting  observations  on  the  geogiaphy  and  hydro- 
graphy- of  this  little-known  region.  Though  adhering  to  the  usually 
received  rendering,  "  Chupat,"  Mr.  Dumford  states  that,  according  to 
information  from  many  Indians  of  independent  tribes,  the  correct  pro- 
nunciation of  the  name  of  the  river  is  "Chiiba/'  which,  according  to 
fieuor  Onetto,  the  commissary  of  the  colony,  mems,  in  Indian,  "  erosion." 
If  this  be  correct,  the  river  has  doubtless  been  so  called  from  its  flowing 
rapidly  in  the  interior  between  procipitoua  rocka,  where  frequent  and 
extensive  luudislips  were  observed  by  Mr.  Durnford.  It  is  rendered 
*'  Chubut "  by  the  distiugnished  naturalist  and  explorer,  Seiior  Francisco 
r.  Moreno,  who  iu  his  *  Viaje  a  la  Patagonia  Austral'  refers  to  informa- 
tion derived  from  Mr.  Durnford. 


MR.  DURNFORI/S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  PATAGONIA. 


85 


Mr.  Durnford  started  on  October  22nd,  with  Mr.  John  Griffiths  and 
3Jr.  Lewis  Jones  (original  promoters  of  the  colony,  also  mentioned  by 
geiior  Moreno),  and  practically  followed  the  coast-line  in  a  southerly 
Section  until  November  Ist,  when  they  struck  inland.  The  route  from 
tbe  Chnpat  colony  to  the  top  of  Montemajor  heights  (about  44**  57'  S. 
lit,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  George),  where  the 
eotft-lino  was  left,  had  been  through  a  very  barren  country,  the  lagoons 
in  the  deep  rocky  gullies  of  the  table-land  being  nearly  always  dry,  in 
q»te  of  which  guanacos  were  extremely  abundant.     The  view  from  the 


heights  (about  750  feet  above  sea-level)  was  very  fine,  the  country 
between  them  and  the  sea  being  dotted  with  salt  lakes.  The  nights  were 
very  cold,  and  ice  was  found  in  the  kettle  every  morning. 

On  Kovember  1st,  they  travelled  about  22  miles  as  nearly  as  possible 
west-by-south  following  the  compass,  and  camped  in  a  deep  gorge  with 
a  permanent  stream  in  its  bed,  surrounded  by  round  hills  of  to»ca — a 
marly  arenaceous  rock  found  imbedded  in  layers  and  nodular  masses 
among  the  argillaceous  earth  of  the  pampas.  Ten  miles  from  this  point, 
a  am  Jl  river  flowing  almost  north  and  south  was  found ;  this  is  usually 
tailed  the  " little  river"  at  Chupat,  but  has  seldom,  if  ever,  been  before 


86 


MR.  DURNFORIVS  EXPLORATIONS  IK  CENTRAL  PATAGONIA. 


I 


I 


visited  by  any  of  the  colonists,  and  was  named  "by  tho  travellers  "  Sen- 
gellen,"  the  Welsh  diminutive  for  Sengel,  being  found  to  be  practically 
a  continuation  of  the  latter  river.  When  seen  on  November  3rd»  it  was 
about  60  yards  in  breadth,  the  water  thick  and  muddy  and  the  stream 
rapid.  The  valley  was  about  three  miles  wide,  and  the  soil  a  stiff  white 
clay.  From  the  5th  to  the  8th  November,  the  valley  was  followed 
up-8tream»  the  river  winding  considerably,  but  with  a  general  course 
S.S.W.,  and  at  one  point  having  a  ford.  As  Mr.  Dumford  and  bis  com- 
panions continued  their  way,  the  barranca*,  or  steppes  bordering  the 
valley  on  either  side,  became  higher  and  the  valley  narrower,  whilst 
red  volcanic  rocks  of  various  fantastic  shapes  and  tosca  hills  reared 
themselves  on  both  sides.  On  the  table-lands  above  the  barrancas,  they 
saw  everywhere  traces  of  the  action  of  the  sea  in  well-rounded  pebbles, 
gigantic  oyster-shells,  and  numerous  fragments  of  smaller  ehelk.  During 
the  7th  and  8th  of  November,  the  river  was  observed  to  flow  through 
lagoons,  which  in  some  places  reached  quite  across  the  valley,  barely 
leaving  room  to  pass ;  these  were  surrounded  by  extensive  reed-beds  and 
contained  thousands  of  wild  fowl.  One  of  the  chief  objects  of  the  expe- 
dition had  been  to  actually  visit  the  lake  "  Coluguape,"  reported  to  Lieut. 
Musters  by  the  Indians,  and  which  appears  on  some  old  maps  as  "  Coolu- 
Huape ,"  although  its  position  and  value  in  the  hydrographic  system  of 
the  Chupat  had  not  been  fixed.  This  lake  has  been,  for  no  apparent  1 
reason,  re-named  '*  Dillon  "  by  Mr.  Thomas,  in  which  he  is  followed  by  ■ 
Moreno,  who  ignores  Coluguape  :  Thomas  also  ro-namt!S  the  river  Sengel 
*'  Younger,"  an  innovation  rejected  by  the  Argentine  geographer. 

In  this  object  tho  travellers  were  succossful,  as  on  the  8th  November 
they  were  close  to  it,  in  comparatively  fertile  pastures,  Mr.  Dumford 
fixing  the  position  by  solar  observation  and  finding  it  to  be  lat.  45*^  38'  S., 
long.  68''  10'  W.  By  dead  reckoning,  the  i>08ition  was  lat.  45^  57', 
long.  68^  38',  Mr.  Jones  fixing  tho  point  still  further  southwards. 

Mr.  Dumford  states  that  the  Indian  name  "  Colguape "  signifies  a 
lake  (j/tMipe)  in  the  form  of  a  bag  or  sack,  but  he  failed  to  see  the  appro- 
priateness of  tho  term*  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  his  "  guape"  is  the 
Indian  "  Huape,"  or  "  Huaph" 

Tho  lake  was  found  to  be  a  large  piece  of  water  of  irregular 
shape,  running  generally  north  and  south,  but  with  neither  end  visible : 
its  length  was  subsequently  estimated  at  about  20,  and  its  breadth  at 
15  miles.  On  the  east  side  were  a  group  of  smaller  lakes,  in  some  cases 
united  by  a  narrow  channel  to  the  main  one.  The  whole  lake  appeared 
surrounded  more  or  less  by  high  hills  and  volcanic  rocks.  Eight  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sengellen,  and  on  a  moderately  high  hill  overlooking  tho  I 
lake,  an  In<lian  cairn  containing  a  human  skeleton  was  found,  and  many 
moro  were  subsequently  observed.  These  cairns,  except  in  one  instance, 
were  invariably  placed  on  the  top  of  some  high  hill  or  rock.  They 
are  oblong  in  shape,  becoming  narrower  towards  the  top  which  ends  in 


I 


UK.  DU&NFORD'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  PATAGONIA.  87 

a  ihtrp  ridgo,  and  vary  maoh  in  size,  being  evidently  built  np  with 
ooosideFable  care,  for  tbe  stones  are  arranged  with  great  symmetry,  the 
luger  ones  below  and  the  smaller  above.  The  construction  of  these 
lepalchres  must  sometimes  have  been  a  work  of  great  labour,  for  in  one 
ea«  the  stones,  which  Mr.  Dumford  could  not  move  alone,  must  have 
leo  carried  at  least  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  a  steep  hill.  The  exception 
nentioned  above  was  in  the  valley  of  the  Sengellen,  where,  for  some 
nnon,  the  cairn  had  been  built  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  bordering  the 
nlley.  It  was  a  very  small  one  and  possibly  covered  the  remains  of 
oM  of  two  individuals,  the  survivor  having  been  unable  to  drag  the 
corpse  to  the  top  of  the  hill. 

The  travellers  continued  along  the  southern  shore,  arriving  at  sunset 
its  point  near  to  which  the  river  Sengel  (Senguel,  or  "  Singuerr,"  as  pro- 
noonoed  by  the  Indians,  according  to  Moreno)  empties  itself  into  the  lake. 
Xfce  last  two-thirds  of  the  day's  journey  were  over  an  extensive  grassy 
plain,  very  low,  scarcely  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  with  very  abundant 
pistar;^,  affording  food  to  large  numbers  of  rheas,  guanaoos,  and 
bans,  and  stretching  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sengellen  to  that  of  the 
Sengel,  and  inland  from  the  lake  for  fully  20  miles.  Mr.  Dumford 
Idieved  that  this  plain  once  formed  part  of  the  lake  and  tliat  the  latter 
ii  gradually  drj^ing  up,  an  opinion  strengthened  by  the  fact  that  the 
plain  was  dotted  here  and  there  with  smaller  pools,  whilst  no  bushes 
pew  upon  it.  The  water  was  only  knee-deep  at  a  distance  of  forty  or 
fifiy  yards  from  the  shore,  the  bottom  being  of  mud  and  covered  with 
fegetable  growth. 

A  few  miles  from  its  mouth  the  Sengel  was  about  80  yards  wide, 
the  stream  flowing  rapidly  and  the  water  clear,  the  depth  in  the  middle 
being  considerable,  but  at  its  actual  entry  into  the  lake  it  flowed  through 
thick  reed-beds. 

After  following  the  river  for  some  10  miles  west-by-south,  the  party 
came  to  another  lake  on  its  loft  bank,  having  apparently  (beyond  a  very 
ilight  overflow)  no  communication  with  it,  and  being  divided  from  it 
by  about  a  hundred  yards  of  dry  land.  This  lake,  if  not  actually  larger 
than  Coluguape,  seemed  to  contain  a  larger  body  of  water ;  it  was  sepa- 
lated  from  the  first  lake  by  a  range  of  hills  and  was  surrounded  by  steep 
and  jagged  rocks.  Moreno,  I.  c,  p.  89,  proposes  to  call  it  **  Musters,"  in 
honour  of  the  deceased  Patagonian  traveller. 

Mr.  Durnford  well  observes  that  there  are  several  points  connected 
with  these  lakes  which  require  explanation,  and  to  the  elucidation  of 
which  future  explorers  might  well  turn  their  attention.  How  can  we  ex- 
plain the  fact  of  such  a  comparatively  large  river  as  the  Sengel  entering 
Coluguape,  and  an  insignificant  one  such  as  the  Sengellen  leaving  it  ? 
If  Lake  Musters  really  has  an  overflow  into  the  Sengel,  as  appeared  to  be 
to  some  extent  the  case,  can  this  be  explained  on  any  other  supposition 
than  that  there  is  some  river  flowing  into  that  lake  from  the  northward? 


88 


MR.  DURNFORD'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  PATAGONIA. 


I 


Contintiing  their  journey  along  tlxe  river-,  the  travellers  found  that  the 
plain  ceased  in  about  15  miles,  the  valley  being  then  about  three  miles 
broad.  Thoy  attempted  in  vain  to  cross  the  Sengel,  both  by  swimming 
and  rafts,  and  on  Kovember  15th  iin&hed  up  the  valley  for  about  20 
miles  and  camped  at  tiio  foot  of  a  high  volcanic  bill,  on  the  summit  of* 
which  were  two  Indian  cairns.  Next  day  the  valley  was  found  to  be^ 
clothed  with  luxuriant  pasture,  but  kept  gradually  narrowing  until  it 
was  a  mere  deep  cutting  between  the  rocks,  which  formed  steep  banks 
from  300  feet  to  400  feet  high,  through  which  the  river  flowed  in  a 
deep  and  rapid  stream.  On  the  17th,  after  travelling  two  or  thre^fl 
miles,  they  found  the  liver  took  a  sudden  bend  to  the  north-west.  Tho 
valley  was  bounded  by  a  high  baiTanca,  and  from  its  summit  plains  could 
be  seen  stretching  to  the  west  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
Just  the  hunting-ground  the  Indians  like.  Game,  however,  was  scarce, 
owing,  no  doubt,  to  Indiana  having  lately  passed  that  way,  of  which 
there  appeared  traces. 

It  was  therefore  deterrained  to  return,  and  on  November  19th  the 
journey  back  commenced.  'J'he  furthest  point  reached  was  fixed  by 
Mr.  Dumford  at  40^  50'  S.  hit.,  69°  50'  W.  long.,  Mr.  Jones  putting  it  a 
fe%v  miles  further  south  by  dead  reckoning.  From  the  top  of  a  hill  _ 
near  the  furthest  camp  tho  course  of  the  river  could  ho  traced  to  a  point,  I 
apparently  20  miles  distant,  in  tho  direction  of  N.W.  by  W,  The 
country  showed  everywhere  the  same  barren  sterility,  occasionally 
relieved  by  a  lagoQn  or  gully  containing  poola  of  water.  Bare  tosca 
hills  and  clifis,  and  volcanic  rocks  of  every  shape  and  colour,  from  pale 
brick  red  to  black,  constantly  confronted  the  travellers  and  wearied 
the  eye  with  their  monotony.  At  one  moment  they  ploughed  their 
way  across  acres  of  soft,  yielding  dust,  at  another  their  horaes'  shoes 
rang  on  hard,  unyielding  rock.  Everywhere  tho  birds,  the  quadrupeds, 
the  flowers  and  bushes,  were  the  same — stunted  and  dwarfed.  Only 
one  bright  line  shone  out  conspicuously,  the  fresh  clear  river  as  it 
Avended  its  way  amongst  the  bills  and  plains,  carrying  life  and  activity 
to  everything  in  the  valley  through  which  it  jtassed. 

The  return  was  made  by  the  same  route  until  Kovember  27th,  when 
tho  point  was  reached  at  which  the  Sengellen  was  first  touched,  and  it 
was  determined  to  follow  that  river  to  its  junction  with  th|e  Chupat, 
instead  of  returning  by  the  coast-line. 

On  the  28th  they  travelled  N.N.E.,  at  noon  reaching  red  volcanic 
rocks,  which  increased  in  height  on  Ixith  sides  of  the  valley  as  they  ad- 
vanced, the  latter  getting  constantly  narrower.  On  the  28th,  travelling 
north-by-east,  they  came  to  the  first  willows,  which  gradually  increased 
in  number  and  size,  and  continued  on  both  sides  of  the  river  to  the  close 
of  the  journey.  These  were  the  first  trees  seen  since  leaving  the  colony, 
and  tbey  looked  wonderfully  fresh  and  green.  Mr.  Duniiord  was  of 
opinion  that  their  range  must  be  governed  by  the  temperature,  for  it  is 


I 
I 


MR.  DURNFORD'S  EXPLORATIONS  IN  CENTRAL  PATAGONIA.  89 

liud  otherwise  to  aocount  for  their  sndden  appearance,  the  banks  of  the 
Sengel  as  well  as  the  Sengellen  being  apparently  well  suited  to  them. 
Heioade  this  point  to  be  44°  15'  S.  lat. 

On  the  28th  the  only  way  was  on  the  top  of  the  barranca,  the  rocks 
iamftny  places  descending  sheer  into  the  river,  rising  from  250  feet  to 
^fjO  feet  in  height,  and  often  presenting  very  curious  and  fantastic 
ibpes.  It  was  not  unusual  to  meet  with  oval  or  circular  holes  from  two 
feet  up  to  10  feet  in  diameter,  and  three  or  four  feet  in  depth,  worn  in  the 
m&oe  of  the  rock.  The  explanation  of  the  origin  of  these  was  that  a 
inall  stone  had  originally  lodged  in  a  natural  crevice,  and  then  been 
vliirled  round -by  the  wind  until,  in  the  course  of  time,  a  large  .cavity 
WIS  formed  in  the  same  way  that  stones  on  snow  or  insects  on  sand  gra- 
dually form  disproportionately  large  pits.  In  one  instance  a  hole  had 
been  thus  bored  right  through  a  projecting  pinnacle  which  reared  itself 
nsny  hundred  feet  above  the  river-level. 

On  December  1st  the  Sengellen  was  left,  and  a  start  made  for  the 
Chnpat,  which  was  here  flowing  almost  parallel  with  the  route  followed 
iar  the  last  few  days.  When  about  25  miles  had  been  covered  in  a 
stnight  line,  a  halt  was  made,  and  after  a  day's  rest  another  25  miles 
over  extremely  rough  ground  took  the  travellers  into  the  valley  of  the 
Chnpat,  which  they  followed  for  some  distance,  finally  camping  about  30 
miles  from  the  outskirts  of  the  Welsh  colony.  Next  day  (December  4th) 
they  passed  the  spot  where  the  Sengellen  joins  the  Chupat,  and  soon 
reached  Tre  Eawson  without  further  adventure. 

Mr.  Dumford's  route  for  the  greater  part  covers  and  anticipates  by 
three  years  that  followed  by  Senor  C.  M.  Moyano  in  1880,  and  described 
by  the  latter  in  his  "  Informe  sobre  un  Viaje  a  traves  de  la  Patagonia," 
in  the  *  Boletin  del  Institute  Greografico  Argentine,'  1881,  ii.  pp.  1-35, 
with  map,  which  is  referred  to  in  the  summary  of  recent  information  on 
Patagonia  given  in  Petermann's  *  Mittheilungen,'  mentioned  at^the  com- 
mencement of  this  note.  Comparing  his  results  with  Petermann's  map 
(1882,  Taf.  3),  and  the  for  the  most  part  hypothetical  one  of  the  region 
given  in  Musters'  work,  it  will  be  seen  that  they  are  approximately 
correct.  His  details  of  the  lake  do  not,  however,  accord  with  those 
given  by  Petermann  from  Moyano's  observations ;  but  the  greatest  dis- 
crepancy is  the  position  so  near  the  coast  ascribed  by  Dumford  for  the 
junction  of  his  Sengellen  (the  Sengel  of  Petermann,  I,  c,  p.  47)  with 
the  main  Chupat.  This  is  definitely  given  in  Petermann  as  situated  at 
43°  37'  30"  S.  lat.,  and  about  65°  42'  W.  long.  (Senor  Moreno,  judging 
by  the  map,  did  not  actually  visit  the  junction),  and  is  so  placed  in  the 
sketch  map  accompanying  this  paper ;  but  according  to  Mr.  Dumford's 
dktances,  the  junction  would  seem  to  take  place  considerably  to  the  east 
of  that  position. 


No.  n.— Feb.  1883.] 


t     90     ) 


Noiea  on  North-Eastern  Borneo  and  the  Sidu  Islands. 
By  W.  B.  Pkteb,  Britisli  Noith  Borneo  Company's  Resident,  Elopnra. 

The  north-cast  coast  of  Borneo,  though  apparently  connected  with  the 
Snhi  Archipelago  by  the  promontory  called  Tanjong  Unsang,  and  by 
a  series  of  Bhallows  and  banka  in  continuation  of  it,  is  of  quite  different 
formation^  most  of  the  islands  of  the  archipelago  showing  evidences  of 
volcanic  action,  none  of  which  are  to  bo  found  in  Borneo,  or  at  all  events 
not  in  the  northern  part  of  it,  the  nearest  approach  to  anything  of  the 
sort  being  a  hot  mud  spring  on  the  island  of  Malwailoe,  which,  however, 
I  myself  have  only  heard  of,  not  seen.  As  might  be  expecttid,  the  soil  of 
the  archipelago  is  of  a  particularly  rich  and  fertile  cliaracter.  In  North- 
eastern Borneo,  or  Sabah  as  it  is  called,  the  formation  is  principally 
sandstone,  with  limestone  in  a  good  many  places,  the  latter  frequently 
forming  steep,  sharply  ungulated  peaks. 

One  of  the  chief  geographical  features  of  Sabah  is  an  enormous  low 
plain,  bordered  on  the  north  side  by  the  Labuk  Hills,  the  west  by  the 
mountains  of  the  interior,  and  on  the  south  by  the  hills  crossing  to  the 
root  of  the  Unsang  promontory,  comprising  altogether  some  4000  square 
miles.  In  this  district  there  is  a  very  heavy  rainfall  in  addition  to  the 
drainage  from  the  extensive  Beries  of  monntainB  at  the  back,  and  as  a 
consequence  rivers  are  numerous  and  large»  the  principal  being  the 
Kina  Batangan,  the  Labuk,  and  the  Monud,  The  Kina  Batangan  is 
noticeable  for  its  extraordinary  windings,  its  stream  having  to  bo  fol- 
lowed  up  for  some  350  miles  before  a  direct  distance  inland  of  80  miles 
is  gained ;  the  Kina  Batangan  has  been  ascended  by  steamer  for  the  fiist 
150  miles  of  its  courBe.  Many  other  fine  rivers  there  are,  including  the 
Terratum,  the  Sapi,  the  Segawah,  the  Maroap,  the  Alfred,  the  Segaliud, 
the  Sekong,  the  Sapa  Gnya,  and  innumerable  smaller  ones ;  the  banks 
of  nearly  all  of  these  rivers  aro  uninhabited.  The  greater  part  of  the 
reet  of  the  country  is  hilly,  the  formation  of  the  ground  being  generally 
in  somewhat  sharp  ridges.  It  is  a  question  whether  a  considerable  part  of 
the  interior  is  not  a  gradual  elope,  the  land  rising  from  the  east  coast  till 
it  culminates  in  the  chain  of  mountains  which  run  down  south  from 
Kina  Balu ;  if  so  there  should  bo  a  considerable  extent  of  country  at  an 
elevation  sufficient  to  render  it  suitable  for  European  settlers. 

The  great  lake  to  the  east  of  Kina  Balu,  hitherto  marked  on  all 
maps,  is  non-existent,  nor  is  there  even  a  swamp  in  its  place,  the 
country  being  very  hilly,  not  to  say  mountainous.  This  fact,  I  believe, 
I  was  the  first  to  absolutely  ascertain  during  a  journey  to  the  interior 
which  I  made  in  August  1880. 

The  Sulu  Archipelago  is  extremely  lovely :  none  of  the  islands  are 
very  large,  but  they  are  mostly  well  shaped  and  hilly,  with  nearly^all 


1 


I 


NOTES  ON  NORTH-EASTERN  BORNEO  AND  THE  SULU  ISLANDS.  91 

the  trees  cut  down  upon  them,  and  fairly  well  cultivated ;  they  are  snr- 
TQonded  by  beautiful  white  coral  etrands,  which,  with  the  verdant  hills, 
the  Uue  sea,  the  coolness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  pleasant  light 
bwiB  usually  blowing,  make  them  unusually  attractive  for  places  to 
node  in,  in  the  tropics.  They  are  fairly  well  populated ;  the  little  island 
(^Sn^  the  residence  of  the  Sultan,  measuring  about  20  miles  from  east 
to  met,  and  eight  or  nine  miles  north  to  south,  is  estimated  to  contain 
tone  20,000  people ;  most  of  these  are  Sulus  (Malays,  with  a  considerable 
iDforion  of  Arab  and  Chinese  blood).  Everywhere  amongst  the  islands, 
ksding  a  nomadic  life  in  their  boats,  each  boat  containing  an  entire 
koaehold,  are  to  be  found  the  Bajaws,  or  sea-gipsies ;  some  of  the  islands 
to  the  south — the  Tawa  Tawis,  Semoonal,  Omaddal,  Sepangar,  <fcc. — 
long  almost  entirely  populated  by  them.  The  Sulus  are  much  the  higher 
of  the  two  in  character,  being  proud  and  independent,  with  an  aristo- 
mej  of  their  own,  and  being  of  a  masterful  but  drone-like  nature,  they 
generally  manage  to  get  some  one  else  to  do  any  hard  work  for  them. 
Tins  refers  more  particularly  to  what  may  be  termed  the  Sea-Sulus,  or 
tiiose  living  on  the  coast ;  the  "  Orang  Gumber,"  or  men  of  the  hills,  are 
a  much  more  industrious  and  hard-working  people,  and  less  addicted  to 
nring  than  the  Sea-Sulus.  In  build  the  Sulus  are  slight,  and  a  good 
many  of  them,  particularly  the  "  aristocracy,"  undersized ;  they  are  very 
eoorteous  in  disposition,  well  know  right  from  wrong,  and  in  the  course 
of  time  a  good  deal  may  be  made  of  them.  The  hill  people  cultivate 
iheir  crops  steadily,  but  they  are  a  good  deal  harassed  by  their  more 
powerful  neighbours,  while  the  Coast-Sulus  take  journeys  to  other 
ooantries,  trading  or  collecting  produce,  with  which  every  sandbank, 
lee^  foreshore,  and  forest  abounds ;  they  are  capable  of  viftlent  exertion 
far  a  short  time,  but  will  then  simply  idle  away  their  time,  doing  nothing 
whatever  by  the  week  together  in  the  intervals. 

The  Bajaws  are  a  stronger  and  rougher  race,  broad-shouldered  and 
muscular,  of  a  far  lower  type,  hardly  knowing  wrong  from  right,  timid 
afanost  as  wild  animals,  but  capable  of  a  dog-like  fidelity  to  those  in  whom 
tiiey  have  gained  confidence ;  they  have  such  indistinct  ideas  as  to  personal 
property,  that  even  their  chiefs  'in  some  places  cannot  plant  coco-nuts 
because  the  buried  nut  is  sure  to  be  dug  up  for  eating  within  a  fort- 
aight,  and  so  little  thought  for  the  future  that  it  is  actually  a  fact  that 
Bajaws  have  been  known  to  throw  overboard  rice  by  the  bagful  rather 
dian  carry  it  about  with  them  in  their  boats,  although  within  a  few 
days  the  family  would  for  want  of  it  be  certainly  reduced  to  a  diet  of 
nothing  but  limpets  and  fish.  It  is  dangerous  for  trading  boats  to  go  into 
aome  parts  where  the  Bajaws  form  the  bulk  of  the  population,  as  the 
crew  may  be  murdered  at  any  time  and  the  cargo  divided  without  their 
l»ng  conscious  that  they  are  doing  anything  particularly  wrong.  They 
are  in  a  great  measure  oppressed  by  the  Sulus,  whose  chiefs  "  requisi- 
tion **  them  for  anything  they  want  that  the  Bajaws  can  make  or  collect, 

H  2 


NOTES  ON  north-eastern  BORNEO  AND  THE  SULD  ISLANDS. 


I 


I 


while  Sulu  traders  eetablisli  themselves  near  every  community,  and  ^ 
carry  on  a  barter  busmcss  at  extraordinary  rates  of  profit.  ■ 

The  archipelago  is  almost  entirely  peopled  by  the«e  two  races ;  but 
on  the  coast-line  of  Borneo  there  is  to  he  found  an  extraordinary  mixture 
of  people.  At  Melapi,  the  first  village  up  the  Kina  Batangan  (60  miles 
from  its  mouth),  for  example,  there  are  to  l>o  found  Sund^'aka  from  the 
interior  (the  nearest  approach  to  a  true  aboriginal  typo),  Malays  from 
all  parte,  Javanese,  Sulus,  Bjijawa,  Bugis,  Chinese,  Arabs,  Klings,  and 
many  others ;  while  of  tlio  Buludupies,  the  indigenous  inhabitants  of 
this  district,  there  are  hardly  any  of  pure  blood  left.  In  the  course  of 
time  a  most  extraordinarily  mixed  race  will  arise  in  Sahab. 

The  Buludupiea  inhabit  the  countiy  bordering  the  cot^t-line  from 
Paitan  on  the  north  to  Silam  on  the  south;  they  are  an  interesting  race, 
their  ancestry  being  doubtful,  and  they  seem  to  show  distinct  signs  of  a 
Caucasian  type.  Probably  tbey  aro  but  a  tribe  of  the  Sundyaks  of  tho 
interior,  which  however,  I  must  say,  they  themselves  strongly  deny.  ■ 
It  may  bo  expected  that  in  a  few  years  this  race  will  have  become 
extinct,  or  merged  into  a  common  stock  which  is  rapidly  spreading 
over  this  part  of  Sabah. 

The  rest  of  the  interior  of  Sabah  is  inhabited  by  various  tribes  of  the 
race  styled  Eriaans,  Dusuns,  or  Sundyaks,  tho  latter  being  by  far  the 
preferable  name.  These  people  are,  I  believe,  dcsoendants  of  the  original 
Dyak  stock  of  the  country,  with  some  admixture  of  Chinese  blood.  This 
has  been  denied  by  some  viTiters,  but  I  think  existing  traditions  and 
facts  are  both  too  strong  to  bo  contradicted.  It  is,  at  all  events,  strange 
how  thoroughly  all  traces  of  Chinese  art,  speech,  and  dress  have  dis- 
appeared  ;  but  undoubtedly^  in  former  times  a  large  trade  was  carried  on  m 
between  China  and  North  Borneo,  and  I  take  it  that  many  of  the  sailors 
and  traders  going  inland  married  amongst  tho  tribes,  and,  as  is  usual 
even  now,  were  not  allowed  to  take  their  wives  away,  but  had  to  settle 
down  in  that  particuliir  district,  no  doubt,  as  also  is  sometimes  tho  case 
even  now,  adopting  tho  dress  and  speech  of  the  natives.  According  to 
this  theory,  there  never  vran  a.  Chinese-speaking  phico  on  this  side  of 
Borneo  (as  I  have  seen  it  asserted  there  was  on  the  Kina  Batangan),  but 
the  infusion  of  Chinese  blood  was  a  slow  infiltration,  the  native  speech, 
manners,  and  dresa  always  being  paramount. 

The  slavery  of  these  parts  is  of  a  veiy  mild  character,  the  slaves 
frequently  dressing  as  well  and  weariug  as  fine  creeses  as  their  owners, 
and  frequently  going  long  journeys  with  or  without  leave,  occasionally 
even  visiting  British  ports  without  claiming  their  freedom,  and  return- 
ing to  their  master's  house  when  in  any  difficulty ;  the  whole  institution,  ■ 
in  fact,  partaking  of  the  nature  of  clanship  rather  than  of  what  is  under- 
stood  by  slavery.  Of  course  the  more  of  these  slaves  or  retainers  a  Dato 
or  chief  had  the  greater  was  his  reputation ;  and  in  jiroportion  to 
power  the  people  wore  content  to  take  shelter  behind  him,  allowing  ] 


NOTES  ON  NORTH-EASTERN  BORNEO  AND  THE  SOLU  ISLANDS.  93 

veiymnch  what  he  wanted  as  long  as  he  was  able  to  protect  them  against 
othfii*.  It  was  not  considered  "  good  form  "  for  a  Dato  to  sell  his  own 
people^  though  there  was  a  good  deal  of  trafficking  in  slaves  who  came 
into  their  hands  in  payment  of  debts,  or  as  captives,  &c.  The  tendency 
of  fllayery,  however,  is  demoralising,  as  tending  to  prevent  people 
thinking  for  themselves,  as  leading  to  too  easy  relations  between  the 
Rxes,  and  hereby  preventing  domestic  life,  and  in  various  other  ways. 

All  the  sea  and  shore  tribes  in  these  parts  are  Mahommedan,  but  not 
of  a  very  strict  type,  and  many  of  their  customs  are  looked  upon  as 
TBy  reprehensible  by  more  orthodox  Mussulmans.  They  are,  of  course, 
polygamists.  One  of  their  customs  is  rather  curious :  when  a  Dato  of 
•ay  consequence  marries  ho  settles  upon  his  bride  a  dowry  of  so  many 
^ves^male  and  female,  so  many  pieces  of  T  cloth,  of  silks,  chintzes,  and 
MitHigs,  all  to  trade  with,  as  well  as  some  seed-pearls  or  other  valuables 
in  hand  as  a  (»pital  to  fall  back  upon ;  a  house  is  built  for  her,  and  she 
is  settled  comfortably.  At  the  end  of  a  few  months  the  roaming  fit 
eomes  over  the  Dato  and  off  he  goes  elsewhere,  where  generally  a  similar 
perfonnance  takes  place.  Nearly  all  women  of  any  rank  are  clever, 
somewhat  masterful,  and  very  well  able  to  take  care  of  themselves  (these 
qualities  are  engendered  in  them  by  having  under  their  charge  from  an 
etrly  age  slaves  whose  intelligence  is  entirely  surrendered  to  them) ;  so 
the  temporarily  abandoned  wife  chooses  one  or  two  of  the  more  capable 
men  from  those  given  her,  who  are  fitted  out  and  sent  away  on  trading 
or  produce-collecting  excursions,  while  others  are  set  to  clear  the 
ground,  plant  potatoes,  bananas,  &c.,  and  the  women  are  employed 
about  the  house.  Matters  proceed  in  this  way  till  some  fine  day  the 
Dato  sails  back  again  to  find  in  every  port  a  house,  a  wife,  and 
surroundings  all  comfortable  and  ready  for  him. 

Thus  the  sea  people  lead  a  free,  wild,  nomadic  life  with  many  virtues 
and  but  few  vices,  are  idle  and  healthy,  have  a  strictly  adhered-to 
code  of  morality,  strong  feelings,  and  at  all  events  are  capable  not 
only  of  being  governed  but  of  being  of  considerable  assistance  to 
Government  if  dealt  with  in  an  easy  but  firm  and  just  manner ;  one  of 
the  strongest  sheet  anchors  of  Government  in  these  parts  is  the  main- 
taining the  power  of  every  one,  down  to  the  lowest  Bajaw,  to  have  the 
right  of  personal  audience  with  the  representative  of  Government.  This 
is  of  course  altogether  at  variance  with  our  Western  notions. 

Being  used  to  small  well-cleared  islands  over  which  the  sea  breezes 
have  no  hindrance  in  playing,  the  coast  tribes  find  the  rivers  of  the 
mainland  very  unhealthy,  running  as  they  do  through  high  primeval 
forest,  mist-laden  in  the  morning,  hot  in  the  day,  cold  at  night,  and  with 
the  houses  generally  built  on  the  lowest  ground  possible,  frequently 
swampy,  for  convenience  of  obtaining  water.  The  Sundyaks,  by 
generations  of  acclimatisation,  are  pretty  well  used  to  it,  but  neverthe- 
less fever  is  common,  and  natural  selection  of  the  strong  and  tough  is 


n 


NOTES  ON  NORTH-EASTERN  BORNEO  AND  THE  SOLtl  ISLANDS. 


always  at  work  amongst  them  ;  it  lb  indeed  partly  due  to  tho  constant 
presence  of  fever  amongst  them  that  their  increase  in  number  is  so 
small,  tlio  population  in  fact  being  almost  stationary.  On  tho  west 
coast  the  Sundyaks  (there  c&lled  Dusuns  —  villaj^ers)  have  got  the  upper 
hand  of  the  forest,  and  are  gradually  felling  it  and  clearing  it  away 
before  them  in  an  easterly  direction.  The  chief  tribes  of  Diisuns  on  this 
east  coast  are  the  Tunbnnwhaa,  on  the  Kina  Batangan,  Labuk»  and  Sugut 
rivers,  further  inland  than  tho  Buludupies,  the  Tingaras  inland  of  them, 
the  Eomanows  inland  of  them  again,  and  the  Tingaluns  inhabiting  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Quarmoto,  and  the  Sibuco.  Tho  Tunbunwhas  are 
for  [the  most  part  fairly  civili.sed,  are  rapidly  becoming  converted  to 
Islam,  and  for  the  moat  part  wear  the  Sulu  dress  ;  Tingaras  retain  the 
manner  and  dress  (or  want  of  it  ratber)  of  their  Dyak  forefathers  almost 
intact ;  while  the  llomanows  and  Tingaluns  are  little  else  than 
wandering  savages,  at  present  of  a  dangerous  type»  and  not  unfre- 
rjuently  still  indulging  in  hoad-huntiDg. 

The  Tunbunwhas  are  the  largest  and  most  important  of  these,  tribes, 
and  being  nearest  to  the  coast,  next  to  the  Buludupies,  are  also  the 
j>eople  we  have  most  to  deal  with.  They  live  a  peaceable  rural  life  and 
have  no  very  particular  points  of  interest  about  them;  it  is  their  custom 
to  move  from  one  place  to  another  on  the  banks  of  tho  river,  building  a 
very  slight  house,  clearing  the  ground,  and  planting  in  an  idle  sort  of 
way  paddy,  bananas,  Indian  corn,  sweet  potatoes,  and  the  like ;  grass 
sooner  or  later  makes  its  appearance,  very  slight  attempts  are  made 
to  keep  it  dowTi,  after  a  time  (generally  about  three  years  from  first 
clearing)  it  has  gained  the  upper  hand,  and  the  flimsy  house  about  this 
time  usually  showing  symptoms  of  a  sudden  collapse,  a  move  is  made 
for  a  fresh  location  where  a  similar  series  of  operations  t^kes  jvlace.  It 
would  seem  that  these  people  ought  to  increase  rapidly  in  numbers,  but 
there  are  one  or  two  circumstances  that  strongly  interfere  w^ith  such  an 
increase :  one  is  the  vast  forest  they  live  in,  against  which  with  theu-lazy 
ways  and  the  ease  with  which  food  and  other  necessftrics  of  life  come  to 
them,  they  make  little  headway,  and  the  humid  shades  and  the  water  they 
drink,  which  is  neoessarily  forest-di-ainage,  cause  fever  to  be  constant 
amongst  them  ;  another  is,  they  are  subieot  to  epidemics,  which — living 
in  the  small  houses  they  do,  men,  women,  and  children,  ill  and  well,  ail 
occupj-ing  a  space  not  bigger  than  one  room  in  an  ordinary  English 
house,  and  having  no  ideas  of  hygiene  or  of  isolating  a  sick  person  what- 
ever ilinefciH  he  may  bo  suffering  from  —  commit  frightful  ravages 
amongst  them.  About  ten  years  ago  the  Tunbunwhas  were  getting 
to  l)e  quite  a  numerous  people,  tho  forest  was  bcginniug  to  go 
down  before  them  in  earnest,  and  their  fields  to  spread  some  distance 
back  from  the  margin  of  the  river,  so  that  air,  light,  and  warmth  came 
in,  and  there  was  some  chance  of  the  river  running  through  clear  ground 
and  not  through  piles  of  rotting  leaves  in  the  forest  shade ;  but  tho  small- 


i 


I 


NOTES  ON  NORTH-EASTERN  BORNEO  AND  THE  SULD  ISLANDS.  96 

pox  came,  and  I  believe  that  something  like  nine  ont  of  ten  died  of 
it,  and  the  forest  closed  np  over  the  fields  again.    Intertribal  wars,  fends 
iMtveen  one  diief  or  village  and  another,  and  raids  by  head-hunting 
nnges  down  the  rivers  from  the  sonth  have  always  brought  about  a  slight 
dnin  on  the  population,  but  nothing  in  comparison  with  the  two  main 
CMuee  I  have  mentioned,  and  when  once  the  people  have  been  properly 
TMictnated,  and  one  or  two  tracks  made  from  military  stations  on  one 
eout  to  the  other,  no  very  difficult  or  expensive  matter,  so  that  small  feuds 
(an  be  prevented,  a  rapid  increase  of  population  may  be  expected.     No 
one  will  be  more  pleased  than  the  natives  themselves  at  thus  being  con- 
trolled, and  the  only  matter  seriously  to  bo  feared  in  future  will  be 
cholera,  not  half  so  terrible  or  loathsome  a  scourge,  however,  as  small- 
pox amongst  an  unvaocinated  community. 

Head-hunting  occurs  amongst  these  people,  but  can  hardly  be 
spoken  of  as  a  regular  custom ;  in  their  intertribal  or  village  fights,  the 
heads  of  the  slain  are  usually  carried  off  as  trophies,  and  there  are  head- 
duoes  around  them  sometimes,  but  the  skulls  are  not  usually  kept* 
Tomurdathe  west  coast,  however,  head-hunting  is  much  more  of  an 
iaidtation,  and  there  are  still  head-houses  garnished  with  the  trophies 
of  fiumer  viotories.  It  is  towards  the  southward,  however,  towards 
Bohmgan,  that  head-hunting  flourishes  in  full  vigour.  In  former  times 
die  ooantry  round  the  Sibuco  river  used  to  be  well  populated,  but  so 
constant  were  the  attacks  of  head-hunters,  that  chiefly  owing  to  them 
that  district  was  depopulated. 

**  Smnming-up  "  (a  custom  even  more  revolting  than  head-hunting) 
■ed  to  prevail  amongst  the  Eriaans  (Sundyaks)  far  down  towards 
die  mouths  of  the  rivers;  it  was  the  sacrifice  of  slaves  or  captives, 
woally  on  the  death  of  a  chief  or  other  leading  personage.  On  the  Eina 
Batangan  the  victim  was  tied  up  and  danced  round  by  the  assembled 
Tillagera,  each  with  a  spear  in  his  hand ;  after  a  short  time  each  one 
thrust  his  spear  a  short  way,  an  inch  or  thereabouts,  into  the  unfor- 
tonate's  body.  The  custom  of  the  Bulungan  people  was  for  as  many 
as  possible  to  take  hold  of  a  spear,  and,  all  thrusting  together,  to  stick 
it  through  the  victim's  body.  All  these  customs  are  looked  upon  with 
great  horror  by  the  sea  tribes. 

The  more  remarkable  animals  of  the  forest  are  the  elephant,  rhi- 
nooeros,  and  orang-utan,  besides  buffalo,  deer,  pigs,  and  bear,  the  clouded 
tiger  (Felis  macrocelis),  the  marbled  cat  (Leopardua  marmoratua)^  some 
twenty  different  sorts  of  monkeys,  of  which  the  curious  long-nosed 
monkey  (S.  fuucUis)  is  perhaps  the  most  remarkable ;  many  insectivora, 
both  arboreid  and  ground  species,  including  the  gymnena  (0,  Baffietit), 
■quirrels,  animals  of  the  stoat  tribe,  civets,  binterrongs,  and  very  many 
others  too  numerous  to  mention. 

The  elephant  and  rhinoceros  are  confined  to  the  Sandakan  and  Darvel 
Bay  districts,  most  of  the  other  parts  of  Borneo  having  been  at  one  time 


96 


ICE  IS  THE  SPITZBERGEN  AND  BARENTS  SEAS  IN  1882. 


or  auother  cleared  and  populated,  wbile  in  the  vast  continuons  primeval 
forest  of  the  alx>ve  districts  they  liav©  roamed  undisturbod  "by  sound  of 
axe  or  trace  of  man  from  time  immemorial.  The  orang-utan  is  laare 
usually  found  in  the  same  districts  than  in  any  other  parts  of  Sabah. 
The  largest  orang-utan  I  have  ever  seen,  measured  4  feet  4  inches; 
the  height  of  these  creatures  is  very  deceptive,  as  when  seen,  even 
if  close  to,  the  impression  left  on  one's  mind  is  that  they  are  very  much 
taller. 

On  the  Sulu  Islands  naturally  the  larger  animals  are  not  found ;  it 
is  rather  curious,  however,  that  on  the  island  of  Sugh,  there  is  a  spotted 
deer,  which  is  not,  that  I  am  aware,  found  in  Borneo. 


Ice  in  the  Spitzhergen  and  Barents  Seas  in  1882. 

DuRiNQ  the  past  season  the  state  of  the  ice  in  the  Spitzhergen  and 
Barents  seas  has  been  singularly  unfavourable  to  exploration,  and  the 
purely  geographical  results  of  the  year  in  this  part  of  the  Polar  basin 
are  consequently  almost  nil.  It  is  therefore  specially  interesting  to 
compare  the  experiences  of  the  Norwegian  walrus-hunters,  which  have  ■ 
been  recently  published  in  Norway,  with  those  already  communicated 
from  other  sources.  Captain  G.  A.  Scirensen,  of  the  jagt  Aurora,  sailed 
to  the  west  side  of  Spitzhergen  in  May  without  any  hindrance  from  ioe, 
but  found  it  impossible  to  reach  the  usual  hunting-grounds  to  the 
northward  of  the  group.  He  therefore  sailed  southward  again  to  Stor 
Fiord,  where  he  remained  during  the  months  of  July,  August,  and 
September,  being  unable  to  get  to  the  eastward  of  Stans  Foreland,  In 
the  first  week  of  October,  he  followed  the  western  edge  of  the  ice  to 
Bear  Island,  without  finding  any  opening  to  the  eastward.  The  Aurora 
paid  a  visit  to  Bel  Sound,  where  it  was  found  that  the  heavy  snow 
which  fell  in  the  beginning  of  September  had  almost  disappeared,  the 
rivers  l>eing  consequently  much  swollen.  Judging  from  the  strips  of 
seaweed  and  small  stones  which  were  visible  above  high-water  mark, 
Soronsen  considers  that  the  west  coast  of  Spitzhergen  must  have  beeik  ■ 
kept  open  during  the  winter  of  1881-82,  the  south-westerly  and  westerly 
gales  which  prevailed  during  that  time  having  driven  the  ice  to  the 
northward,  and  packed  it  towards  and  beyond  North-East  Land.  The 
north-easterly  winds  which  prevailed  during  the  spring  of  1882  appear 
to  have  driven  the  ice  back  again  on  both '  sides  of  Spitzhergen,  leaving 
a  tolerably  broad  open  channel  along  the  south  side  of  that  group  and 
Franz-JoBcf  Land.  In  ordinary  years  Stor  Fiord  is  covered  with  what 
the  walrus-hunters  call  "  fast  ice,"  or  fiord  ice  with  a  tolerably  smooth 
surface ;  but  last  season  Surensen  found  it,  for  the  first  time  in  his  long 
experience,  to  be  bloclied,  especially  on  the  east  side,  with  heavy  broken 


ICE  IN  THE  SPITZBERGEN  AND  BARENTS  SEAS  IN  1882.  97 

I  of  floo  ice  which  came  in  from  the  eastward.  Nils  Johnson,  of 
tbe  jigt  Berentiney  was  also  in  Stor  Fiord  during  June  and  July,  and 
then  attempted  to  reach  the  northern  hunting-grounds,  working  back- 
micbi  and  forwards  with  the  ice  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Amsterdam 
lihnd  from  the  9th  of  August  to  the  8th  of  October.  The  BeretUine  did 
Bot,  however,  succeed  in  getting  even  so  far  east  as  Mo£fen  Island,  and 
Jobnaen  agrees  with  Captain  Falander  in  thinking  it  unlikely  that 
Mamel  Bay  could  have  been  reached  later  on. 

J.  N.  Isaksen,  of  the  jagt  Proven,  sailed  in  April  for  Novaya  SiCmlya, 
and  sailed  backwards  and  forwards  along  the  edge  of  the  ice  during 
June  between  lat.  69°  26'  and  73"  20',  long.  49"  30'  to  40°,  without  being 
aUe  to  reach  the  land.  The  ice  was  only  from  one  to  two  feet  thick, 
-with  a  generally  level  surface,  and  Isaksen  considers  that  this  smooth 
thin  ice  along  the  west  coast  of  Novaya  Zemlya  was  formed  by  a  heavy 
now&ll  in  March  and  April,  and  that  before  that  time  there  was  open 
water.  His  opinion  was  strengthened  by  finding  the  land  still  oovered 
with  snow  when  he  reached  Matyushin  Strait  on  the  12th  of  July. 
The  strait  then  appeared  to  be  entirely  free  from  ice,  and  outside  the 
land  ice  there  was  open  water  up  to  Admiralty  Peninsula,  which  was 
readied  on  the  15th.  Isaksen  then  sailed  northward  until  he  was  about 
90  miles  to  the  westward  of  Berg  Island,  when  he  found  a  heavy  pack 
extending  to  the  north-eastward,  and  closing  rapidly  into  the  land.  By 
the  evening  of  the  20th  the  ice  had  almost  reached  the  coast,  and  on  the 
!7th  the  Proven  passed  within  four  miles  of  Suchoi  Nos.  Off  the  entrance 
to  Hatyushin  Strait  there  was  a  large  opening  in  the  ice  to  the  westward, 
which  enabled  Isaksen  to  reach  open  water  on  the  28  th  of  July  in 
lat  73°  5',  long.  48°.     He  returned  to  Tromso  on  the  6  th  of  August. 

Sdren  Johannesen,  of  the  schooner  AndenceSy  sailed  from  Tromso  on 
the  10th  of  July  for  Jugor  Strait,  with  materials  for  a  storehouse  which 
Sibiriakoff  intended  to  erect  there.  In  the  middle  of  August  a  strong 
north-westerly  wind  drove  the  ice  to  the  southward,  and  the  Andencea 
was  able  to  approach  the  Kara  Strait,  but  Waigatz  Island  could  neither 
be  reached  nor  seen.  Johannesen  then  sailed  to  the  westward  until  he 
reached  the  edge  of  the  ice,  which  was  driving  fast  to  the  eastward,  in 
long.  53°.  He  then  followed  it  to  the  southward,  and  on  the  23rd  of 
August  reached  the  small  island  Motjewewo.  The  ice  then  began  to 
drift  to  the  westward,  and  the  Andences  anchored  at  the  north  end  of 
Meechdurscharskij.  Neither  of  these  names  appears  on  our  charts.  Here 
the  remained  until  the  28th  of  August,  when,  as  there  seemed  to  be  no 
dianoe  of  reaching  Jugor  Strait,  and  as  Johannesen  had  strict  orders 
not  to  risk  being  frozen  in,  he  decided  to  return  to  Norway. 

Hans  Johannesen,  of  the  steamer  NordensJnoldy  which  was  also  bound 
to  Jugor  Strait,  attempted  to  get  to  the  eastward  on  the  23rd  of  August, 
and  succeeded  in  sighting  Waigatz  Isknd.  The  Nordenshiold  made 
several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  reach  Jugor  Strait  after  the  Andencu 


98 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


had  Bailed  for  home,  and  was  then  obliged  to  return  without  fulfilling 
the  objecte  of  her  voyage. 

From  a  compariBon  of  these  reports  with  those  which"*  we  have 
already  publiehed,  it  is  evident  that  the  ice-con ditiona  of  1882  diflfered  H 
widely  from  thogo  of  the  previous  year.  In  the  spring,  and  far  into 
the  summer,  of  1881,  the  ice  was  exceptionally  low  down  towards  the 
coast  of  Norway,  while  there  was  open  water  north  of  Spitzbergen  and 
Novaya  Zemlya.  In  1881  also  the  ice  disappeared  with  extraordinary 
rapidity  when  it  once  fairly  began  to  melt,  while  in  1882  it  seems 
hardly  to  have  given  away  at  all.  The  north  side  of  Spitzbergen  has 
also  been  almoat  inaccessible,  which  is  not  known  to  have  been  the  case 
for  many  yeare.  The  most  probable  explanation  seems  to  be  that  the 
northerly  winds  which  prevailed  during  the  spring  and  summer  kept  up 
a  steady  supply  of  ice  from  the  northward,  sufficient  to  keep  pace  with 
the  melting  of  the  pack  at  its  southern  edge.  But  it  is  almost  certain 
that  to  maintain  this  supply  large  tracts  of  Avater  must  have  been  left 
open  in  some  other  part  of  the  Polar  basin,  and  it  is  therefore  possible 
that  the  past  season  would  have  been  very  favourable  to  an  expedition 
starting  from  Behring  Strait.  Its  effect  on  the  prospects  of  a  regular 
trade  with  Siberia  is  sufficiently  interesting  and  important  to  be 
discussed  separately,  and  we  propose  to  do  this  in  onr  next  number. 


I 


GEOGEAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  as  a  mark  of  his  gi-atitnde  for  the  interest  shown 
by  the  Society  in  the  fate  of  himself  und  the  crow  of  the  Eira  during 
their  late  voyage  to  Franz-Joaef  Laud,  baa  made  a  donation  to  the 
Society's  funds  of  lOOOi.,  to  be  applied  in  defraying  expenses  of 
expeditions. 

Mr.  A.  P.  Maudalay  left  England  on  the  13th  of  January,  on  his 
third  journey  to  Guatemala,  where  he  intends  to  make  a  more  thorough 
study  than  before  of  the  Indian  ruins  he  described  in  his  paper  read  to 
the  Society  on  the  11th  of  December  last.     He  travels  via  Now  York. 

Dr.  Laasdell's  Journey  in  Central  Western  Asia.— The  Rev.  Henry 
Lanadell,  D.a,  the  well-known  Siberian  traveller,  who  left  England  in 
June  last  on  a  second  long  journey,  has  recently  returned,  having 
accompliahed  in  the  interim  a  journey  of  upwards  of  11,000  miles 
through  Western  Siberia  and  Turkistan.  lie  followed  the  route  of  his 
former  journey  as  far  as  Tobolsk,  then  ascended  the  Irtish  to  Omsk,  and 
passed  on  to  Kuldja,  Vernoe,  Tashkend,  IChokand,  and  SaTuarcand.  He 
orossed  by  a  mountain-path  into  Bokhara  at  Shehi'-i-sabz,  where  he  was  ■ 
received  as  a  guest  l»y  the  Emir,  and  then  continued  to  Karshi,  Bokhara, 
and  Charjui  on  the  Oius,  from  which  last-mentioned  plaoe  he  descended 


I 
I 


OEOORAPHICAL  NOTES.  99 

ly  river  to  Khiva.  Under  the  Khan's  protection  he  proceeded  north- 
wds  to  Kunya-Urgenj,  whence  he  turned  westwards  across  the 
Turkoman  desert,  by  the  old  bed  of  the  Oxns  and  Sary-Kamish,  to 
Ijisnovodsk ;  he  crossed  the  Caspian  to  Baku,  returning  to  Europe  by 
Tiflis,  Batoum,  and  Odessa. 

Xr.  Joseph  Thomion  embarked  at  Suez,  in  the  Arcot,  on  the  llth  of 
Inotfy,  for  Aden  and  Zanzibar,  after  a  short  stay  in  Egypt.  He 
riated  Dr.  Schweinfurth  in  Cairo,  and  obtained  some  information  re- 
siding the  journey  across  Africa  of  Lieutenant  Wissmann,  who  was 
detained  in  Egypt,  on  his  way  home,  by  a  slight  attack  of  fever.  From 
KpngwS,  Lieutenant  Wissmann  had  travelled  to  Tanganyika  and  Ujiji 
lijrthe  usual  caravan  route,  visiting  the  Lukuga  outlet  on  Ms  way, 
whieh  he  found  nearly  in  the  same  condition  as  when  Mr.  Thomson  saw 
it  He  says  that  the  Lake  Lincoln,  reported  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  does 
sot  exist.  Between  Ujiji  and  the  residence  of  king  Mirambo  (of  whom 
ke  gpeaks  Teiy  favourably)  he  had  a  narrow  escape  of  his  life  in  a  village 
Ifswl,  which  arose  among  the  natives  during  his  stay. — According  to  a 
letter  from  Mr.  Wakefield,  received  within  the  last  few  days,  the  neigh- 
boatfaood  of  the  mission  station  of  Bib^,  near  Mombas,  has  recently  been 
ifkHed  by  a  marauding  party  of  Wakwafi,  a  tribe  through  whose  terri- 
toiy  Mr.  Thomson  wiU  have  to  pass  on  his  expedition,  and  who  are  said 
to  be  a  section  of  the  redoubtable  Masai  nation.  The  raiders  made  their 
fint  appearance  near  the  settlement  on  the  25th  of  October,  and  hovered 
ibout  for  a  day  or  two  without  venturing  to  attack  the  place.  Their 
object  seems  to  have  been  cattle-stealing.  Mr.  Wakefield  watched  them 
Boet  of  the  time,  lliey  approached  with  great  wariness  and  hesitation, 
ilmost  creeping  under  the  shelter  of  their  long  shields,  and  keeping  to 
tiie  side  of  the  village  where  there  were  trees  and  bushes,  apparently 
afraid  of  the  stone  houses.  The  natives  on  watch  in  the  settlement 
wanted  to  shoot  them,  which  they  could  have  done  very  easily ;  but 
Mr.  Wakefield  ordered  them  not  to  fire,  knowing  the  bad  effect  which 
my  bloodshed  might  have  on  the  prospects  of  Mr.  Thomson's  expedition. 
The  danger  of  a  collision,  however,  was  only  averted  with  difficulty,  for 
two  of  the  marauders  approached  one  of  the  houses  very  closely,  and 
ilwated  a  challenge  with  their  spears.  The  party  eventually  retreated 
precipitately,  showing  the  greatest  cowardice  on  shots  being  fired  at 
ftem  by  a  neighbouring  farmer. 

Journey  of  a  Native  Indian  Explorer  through  Tibet  —  One  of 
General  Walker's  native  explorers  has  just  returned  to  India  after  an 
absence  of  four  years,  during  which  he  has  obtained  a  large  amount  of 
new  geographical  information,  and  finally  disposed  of  the  question  of  the 
8anpo  river.  He  had  travelled  on  a  former  occasion  with  one  of  the 
celebrated  pundits,  and  was  trained  by  him  for  this  expedition.  He  left 
India  in  March  1878  with  two  companions,  C—  and  D ,  proceeding 


100 


GEOGlUrniCAL  NOTES. 


from  Darjiling  to  Lhassa  via.  Phari,  intending  to  cqnip  himself  there  for  i 
journey  towards  Lob  Nor,  which  place  Prejevalsky  had  not  then  reached.  I 
At  LhaBBa  he  was  detained  for  some  time.    At  length  he  joined  a  caravan  J 
proceeding  to  Mongolia^  and  accompanied  it  to  a  place  called  Thingali, 
on  the  road  to  Sinning  (roughlj  in  hit.  3G°  by  long.  96°)  which  was 
reached  io  Becemher  1879.     Here  tlio  caravan  was  attacked  by  a  band  , 
of  robbers,  and  they  were  plundered  of  most  of  their  property,  the  travel-l 
ler^B  Btock-in-trade  being  reduced  to  about  a  tenth  of  what  it  had  l:x?en» 
but  he  saved  hia  instruments.    He  then  started  north-westwards  towards 
Lob  Nor,  and  although  detained  two  and  a  half  months  at  a  place  called 
Gobi,  managed  to  push  onwards  to  Saithang  (lat.  39",  long.  92'').    Here  one  j 
of  hiB  companions  deserted  him,  after  robbing  him  and  his  other  assistant ' 
extensively,  and  he  and  his  remaining  companion  thereupon  took  service 
with  the  Mongolians,  whom  they  accompanied  to  Saitu  (lat.  40%  long.  92''), 
thenorthemmoBt  point  which  they  reached,  and  which  is  possibly  identical 
with  Marco  Polo's  Sachiu.     There  they  entered  the  service  of  a  friendly 
Lama,  with  whom  they  travelled  Ivack  to  Saithang,  and  then  south-east  to 
Earong  Chaidam  (lat.  36°  30',  long.  97^),  and  afterwards  south  to  Thuden 
Gompa,  where  they  took  service  with  a  Chinese  Tartar,  and  accompiinicd 
him  to  Ta-tsien-lu,  whero  they  reported  themselves  last  February  to 
the  Jesuit  mission.     The  mission  bishop  sent  immediate  information  to 
General  Walker  of  their  arrival,  which  wa."3  most  welcome,  as  a  few 
months  before  Nain  Sing  had  been  informed  that  the  traveller  had  had 
his  legs  broken  to  prevent  him  from  making  further  explorations,  and 

that  hia  compauion  D had  been  executed  by  the  authorities  at  Lhaa«a. 

Thence  they  proceeded  to  Batang,  and  after  some  stay  endeavoured  to 
reach  Assam  by  the  direct  route.  They  proceeded  as  far  as  Rima  and 
Sama  (mV),  on  the  frontier  of  the  Mishmi  country,  where  they  were  told 
that  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  Assam  by  the  direct  route,  as  the 
Mishmis  were  savages,  who  would  murder  them  ;  they  therefore  took 
the  circuitous  route  to  Lhassa  via  Alanto  and  Gjamda,  and  having  reached 
the  latter  place  they  tumed  down  to  Chetaug  on  the  Sanpo,  avoiding 
Lhassa  for  fear  of  being  recognised.  From  Chetaug  they  travelled  vi& 
Giaugze  Long  and  Phari  to  Darjiling,  where  they  arrived  last  month. 
The  traveller  has  managed  to  sa-v^e  all  his  journals  and  his  instruments, 
and  bring  them  back  with  him.  Ho  has  taken  a  large  nmmber  of  obser- 
vations for  latitude,  and  kept  up  a  more  or  less  continuous  traverse  of 
his  route.  It  will  take  some  months  to  plot  his  work  and  draw  up  a 
report  of  it,  and  General  Walker  regrets  that  he  no  longer  has  a 
Montgomerie  to  aid  him  in  the  task. — The  traveller  saya  that  Sama,  on 
the  Mishmi  frontier,  is  the  place  whore  two  Europeans  coming  from 
Assam  were  murdered  some  thirty  years  ago.  Thus  Sama  must  be 
identical  witli  Wilcox's  Sime,  wheix:  the  priests  Elrick  and  Bomry  were 
murdered  in  1854  ;  and  the  remark  by  Colonel  Yule,  at  p.  381  of  vol.  xxx. 
of  the  '  Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal,'  that  "  this  murder  of  , 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  101 

\  l)ecome8  thus  in  fact  the  basis  of  a  geograpliical  c»ii>ec- 
tioD  between  British  India  and  Thibet,"  ia  even  more  appropriate  jab\k 
liian  it  was  originally.  If  tlie  Saupo  river  passes  into  the  Irawadi, 
th«  ufttive  explorer  must  have  crossed  it  between  Batang  and  Sama, 
ii^wien  Sama  and  Gjamda,  and  again  at  Ohetang :  but  he  is  positive 
that  he  only  crossed  the  Sanpo  once,  at  Chetang,  and  that  on  the  road 
fiom  Sama  to  Gjamda  there  is  a  great  range  of  hills  to  the  west,  sepa- 
nting  the  basin  of  the  affluents  of  the  Sanpo  from  that  of  the  affluents 
of  iho  river  to  the  cast.  One  of  the  latter  may  possibly  fall  into  the 
Invpadi,  but  the  Sanpo  assuredly  cannot  do  so.  General  Walker  is 
Bseh  pleased  with  his  traveller's  performance,  and  Ms  steady  i)er8e- 
I  with  his  work  after  ho  iiad  been  robbed  of  all  his  money,  and 
I  compelled  to  take  service  in  order  to  earn  a  livelihood. 

The  Tin-producing  District  of  South-east  Queensland. — Mr.  Robert 
Jttck,  Queensland  Govcmraent  Geologist,  who  was  engaged  in  July 
;  upon  an  inspection  of  the  Stanthorpe  Tin  Mining  District,  on  the 
sliind  and  New  South  Wales  frontier,   has  made  a  preliminary 
Brport.   from  which  the  following   point*   are    taken:— His  journeys 
otKidtfd  from  Marj'land  south-westward  to  the  Red  Rock,  a  distance  of 
■boat  30  miles,  within  which  limit  he  visited  most  of  the  stream  tin- 
workings,  and  also  traversed  the  greater  part  of  the  range  between 
lUn'land  and  the  heads  of  Sugarloaf  Creek.     The  district  consists,  at 
;  as  far  south  as  Baltandcan,  mainly  of  granite,  presenting  the  usual 
;  obser^-ed  in  a  region  of  that  nature,  and  forming  a  table-land  at 
tn  Average  elevation  of  little  less  than  3000  feet  above  the  sea-level.    The 
high  grounds  rise  in  soft  undulations,  %vher6  the  granite  is  decomposed 
lo  «  considerable  depth,  with  an  occasional  "  tor  "  or  mass  of  huge  un- 
deoomposed  blocks,   with    their   asperities  rounded  off,  standing  up 
isolated  in  such  a  manner  as  to  suggest  carriage  from  a  distanoe  by 
glacial  action.     The  summit  of  the  range  dividing  South-east  Queens- 
land and  New  South  Wales  presents  a  chain  of  these  "  tors,"  often  con- 
tinuous for  some  distance,  but  with  frequent  gaps  where  the  rock  has 
been  disintegrated,  through  which  the  range  may  bo  crossed  almost 
imperceptibly  in  many  places.     The  heads  of  the  streams  draining  this 
country  are  shallow  and  swampy,  and  when  they  attain  any  magnitude 
they  find  it  easy  to  wander  among  the  soft  decomposing  surface  of  the 
lower  granite  region.    Thus  the  Dumeresq,  or  Severn,  and  its  tribu- 
tariee  have  exceedingly  tortuous  courses  and  deep  alluvial  deposits.  The 
tin-producing  area  appears  to  be  nearly  coincident  -with  that  occupied 
by  the  granite,  and  by  far  tho  greater  part  of  the  ore  is  in  iine  grains, 
not  exceeding  the  size  of  an  ordinary  pin's-head,  and  generally  forming 
with  quartz  griinules  and  pebbles  the  matrix  of  a  coarsely-cemented 
conglomerate,  lying  directly  on  the  bed  rock,  surmounted  by  a  varying 
thickness  of  sand.     Mr.  Jack's  more  minute  observations  lead  to  the 
«oncluaion  that  the  tin-etone  was  originally  in  the  form  of  mostly  small 


L 


J 


102 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 


•V" 


CTy.fttels,  concentrated  by  the  weathering  of  its  original  matrix  dtiring 
/ft/lcng  period  of  gentle  sub-aerial  domidation,  when  the  rains  were 
'•never  sufficiontly  heavy  to  remove  it,  and  finally  deposited  in  the 
upper  reaches  of  the  Severn  and  its  tribntaries  by  a  limited  period 
of  heavy  rainfall  or  possibly  of  melted  enow,  sufficient  to  sltiico  the 
hiU-eountry  and  caiTy  tho  finer  particles  to  tho  south-west  plains. 
Two  distinct  types  of  tin-hearing  rocks  were  met  with,  quartz  reefs 
and  volcanic  dykes,  the  latter  of  which  are  to  ho  found  at  various  points 
in  tho  range  on  the  boundary,  though  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that 
they  are  common  to  the  whole  of  the  country  specified,  as  they  run  at 
varying  angles  coinciding  with  the  system  that  characterises  the  granite. 
On  the  exhaustion  of  the  alluvial  deposits,  the  prosperity  of  tho  district 
will  depend  upon  theso  erupted  rocks,  in  Mr,  Jack's  opinion  j  and,  pass- 
ing over  his  technical  arguments,  it  may  be  observed  that  a  minute 
topogi-aphical  examination  of  the  country  is  recommended  in  order  to 
discover  localities  in  which  stanniferous  dykes  occur,  as  they  will  in  all 
probability  also  bo  found  in  the  slate  and  greywacke  country  near  tho 
granite, 

KEPORT  OF  THE  EVlNIl^a  MEETIHGS,  SESSION  1882-3. 

Fourth  Meeting f  Ibtk  January,  1883. — The  Right  Hon.  Lord  Aberdare, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Pbesbntatioit. — Bev.  E,  F,  Taylor. 

Elbctions. — Major  OeM'ge  Barker,  b.e.  ;  Joseph  Sevan,  Esq. ;  Edwin  Charles 
Davis,  Esq.;  Cecil  Henry  Harper,  Eiq.j  Thomas  Sharp  Hudson,  Esq.;  Rev. 
WUliavi  Henry  Penney  ;  Colonel  C.  F.  Roberts  {Commanding  JHf.S.  W,  ArtHUrtj); 
Thomas  Alfred  Routh,  Esq. ;  Philip  Winser,  Esq, 

The  paper  read  was : — 

"  On  tho  Various  Means  of  Communication  between  Central  Persia  and  the  Sea.'* 
By  Colonel  J.  U.  Batemaa  Champain,  r.e. 

Will  bo  published,  with  discussion  and  map,  in  the  March  number  of  the 
•  ProceediDgs.' 

PEOCEEDINGB  OF  FOKEION  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris. —Jaiiuary  5tli,  1883:  M.  Victor  Gueris 
in  the  Chair.— Announcement  wjis  made  of  the  return  of  Colond  Perrier  (of  the 
Institute),  Vice-President  of  the  Society,  who  was  sent  to  observe  the  transit  of 
Vemia  from  the  coasts  of  Florida, — M.  WilUam  HuTber,  Vice-President  of  the 
CentiaJ  Commission,  then  announced,  1st,  the  opening  of  a  subscription,  organised 
by  the  Geographical  Society  of  the  Ejist  at  Nancy»  to  erect  a  hust  to  Dr.  Crevaux ; 
(subscriptions  can  be  paid  at  the  offices  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris)  ;  2iid, 
the  completion  of  the  monument  erected  to  the  Flatters  Mission  at  Montsouris ; 
3rd,  the  proposal  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States  to  summon  an  International 
Congress,  to  consider  the  adoption  of  one  common  meridian. — The  last  4  sheets 
published  of  the  map  of  Tunis,  scale  1 ;  200,000  (provisional  edition)  were  received 


i 


PROCEEDINOS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  108 

fioB  tlte  Minister  of  War,  and,  in  addition,  one  copy  of  *  Llnstruction  relative  aux 
Ml  en  cimpagne,*  issned  by  the  present  Goremment.— The  Minister  of  Naval  and 
(MoBitl  Affiiin  sent  the  first  sheet  of  the  map  of  New  Caledonia,  prepared  by 
Cblond  Bagay,  which  will  comprise  5  sheets ;  also  85  photographic  views  (which 
mt  exhibited  in  the  hall)  taken  at  Senegal  by  Dr.  Bayol's  mission. — ^M.  Alph. 
Ijloe-Edwards  sent  a  letter  on  the  scientific  campaign  of  the  ship  Le  TravaUleur 
kiaSS.  The  letter  will  be  inserted  in  exteruo  in  the  report  of  the  Meetings. — 
ftwH**^"**  were  received  from  Abb6  De^odins  (i.)  of  a  pamphlet  by  Mr.  Lepper  on 
'fhs  Qnestion  of  an  Overland  Bonte  from  India  to  China  vi&  Assam,'  ^i.)  of  an 
atScIeby  an  Englishman  of  Calcutta,  dated  13th  Jmie,  1882,  upon  <  Trade  Routes 
In  India  to  Thibet  and  China,*  the  article  is  signed  A.  D.— M.  E.  MilhOme,  a 
ftoA  settler  in  the  province  of  Tarija  (Bolivia),  wrote  from  Carapari  in  October 
UBS,  that  he  was  convinced  beyond  a  doubt  that  some  of  those  who  formed  part  of 
fte  Gtevaux  Mission  were  still  alive  and  dwelling  as  slaves  among  the  Tobas ; 
thA  he  had  spoken  to  a  youth,  named  Fr.  Zeballo  or  Zeballos,  who  has  been 
imif  mentioned  as  having  escaped  the  massacre.  This  Zeballos  had  seen  one  of 
telfisoiien,  a  man  named  Blanco,  with  whom  he  had  conversed ;  the  Indians  had 
ftilaed  Blanco  to  a  tree,  and  treated  him  like  a  dog.  A  cacique,  whom  M. 
Cftteoe  had  sent  (having  promised  him  a  reward)  to  obtain  information  at  Tejo  on 
te  tanks  of  the  Pilcomayo— the  neighbourhood  in  which  the  masracre  had  taken 
fiBbt  and  where  the  Tobas  congr^ate  in  winter — ^had  returned,  confirming  the  news 
rf  tiie  detention  of  the  white  men  as  prisoners  by  the  Indians,  who  were  being 
iatraeted  by  them  in  the  use  of  arms.  On  the  motion  of  the  General  Secretary, 
Ae  Society  decided  that  a  copy  of  this  letter  should  be  sent  to  the  Minister  of 
Kngn  AfiEairs,  in  order  that  the  necessary  measures  might  be  taken  to  ascertain  the 
tndiof  the  matter. — ^A  letter  dated  11th  November  was  received,  through  the 
luster  of  Fweign  Affurs,  from  M.  Ledoulx,  French  consul  at  Zanzibar,  informing 
Ae  Society  that  Dr.  Fischer,  who  has  been  preparing  himself  for  his  journey  by  a 
lag  coarse  of  study,  had  left  Zanzibar  for  the  interior.  He  had  spent  five  years  at 
bnibar,  stndying  the  languages  of  the  country  and  forming  useful  connections.  It  is 
Ki  intention  to  visit  theunfriradly  tribe  of  the  Masai ;  from  there  he  will  reach  Eili- 
Brnjaro  in  order  to  explore  the  country  between  the  Lakes  Manyara  and  Nalvasha. 
Ibrdier  that  the  German  lieutenant  Wissmann,  who  started  from  St.  Paul  de  Loanda 
tfOTears  ^o  in  company  with  Dr.  Po^e  (the  latter  has  since  returned  to  the  coast), 
Uarrived  at  Tabora,  and  was  expected  to  bo  at  Bagamoyo  in  November.  He  will  then 
kra  accomplished  a  journey  across  Africa  from  west  to  east.  The  consul  goes  on 
todeacribe  the  interest  which  is  taken  in  the  operations  of  the  missions  sent  out  by 
Ae  German  Conmiittee  of  the  International  African  Association,  which  was  charged 
to  otablish  a  station  at  Eokoma,  between  Tabora  and  Earema.  But  it  has  also 
eoikcted  important  natural  history  specimens,  and  obtained  some  highly  interesting 
cduiographical  information. — Captain  Bloyet,  French  observer  in  Usagara,  the  tri> 
agolation  of  which  he  is  at  the  present  moment  making,  was  stated  to  have  sent  to 
iBsbor  some  cases  containing  various  collections,  and  these  are  to  be  forwarded  on 
to  France. — ^It  was  announced  that  the  Pdres  du  St.  Esprit^  were  about  to  establish 
t  Dew  poet  in  the  interior,  and  that  the  Missionnaires  de  Notre  Dame  d'Afrique 
rae  erecting  a  house  at  Zanzibar  to  follow  the  advances  of  the  missions'across  the 
"dark  continent."— It  was  farther  stated  that  M.  Giraud,  qualified  midshipman  of 
ths  French  navy,  not  having  yet  recdved  the  vessel  which  he  had  ordered  in 
fiq^and,  had  not  left  Zanzibar,  where  he  was  studying  the  native  idioms  before 
Mnting  for  the  interior  of  Africa,  which  he  should  have  done  by  the  end  of 
December ;  also  that  a  chronometer,  the  gift  of  the  French  Government,  had  been 
MBt  to  lir.  Hore,  the  English  missionary,  in  consideration  of  the  great  care  and 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOKEIGN  SOCIETIES. 


attention  shown  "by  bim  (Mr,  Hore)  to  tlie  late  AbbiS  Debiize. — From  a  letter  of  the 
chief  Frencli  conHiil  at  Shanglxai,  who  has  had  a  conversation  with  M.  Jamea 
Morrison,  the  English  engineer,  it  appears  that  the  Yellow  River  has  not,  as  miglit 
have  been  expected,  resumed  its  soutliern  course,  hut  that  it  only  flows  with 
recurring  floods  in  it«  old  bed ;  the  Hnoanj^-ho  continues  to  discharge  its  waters  into 
the  Gulf  of  Pechili,  and  the  ancient  bed  of  the  river  does  not  appear  to  have  under- 
gone any  modTflcations,— M.  JIartin  la  Meslde,  attache  of  the  Surveyor-Geoerars 
office  at  Sydney,  writes  from  that  town,  tliat  he  is  engaged  in  re-establishing  the 
Geographical  Section,  which  formerly  existed  in  the  "  Royal  Society  of  Sydney," 
and  that  with  the  assistance  of  aeveral  persona  who  are  taking  an  interest  in  geo- 
graphy, he  hopes  to  succeed.  He  informs  us,  moreover,  that  there  is  no  more  doubt 
regarding  the  relics  and  papers  of  the  traveller  Leichbardt,  about  which  there  baa 
recently  been  so  much  discussion,  for  they  have  been  recovered  ;  and  this  discovery 
will,  it  seems,  prove  to  be  positively  authentic. — M.  Brau  de  St.  Pol  Lias  intimated 
the  return  of  M.  de  la  Croix  to  France,  who  had  sot  out  upon  a  second  voyage  to 
the  Malacca  reninsula,  lie  (>I.  de  k  Croix)  has  again  ascended  the  Ferak  river 
and  also  one  of  its  affluents,  the  Quinta,  as  far  as  the  valley  of  Lahat.  The  engineer 
by  whom  he  wafi  accompanied  wais  struck  with  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  country. 
— One  of  the  members  having  announced  that  the  remains  of  M.  Bounat,  a  French 
traveller  who  died  on  the  African  coast  on  the  8th  of  July,  1881,  had  just  been 
brought  back  to  France,  M.  de  Braaza,  who  was  present  at  the  meeting,  reminded 
the  Society  of  the  merits  of  this  explorer ;  then,  referring  to  his  own  exi^edition  to 
the  Congo,  he  stated  that  six  days  after  the  vote  of  the  French  Chambers  he  had 
despatched  an  advance  convoy,  and  that  he  himself  would  follow  shortly,  as  soon  as 
his  preparations  were  completed. — M,  Joseph  Martin,  mining  engineer,  writes  from 
Eastern  Siberia  tb.it  having  set  out  from  Irkutsk,  he  was  stopj^ed  by  the  ice-floM 
whicli  the  Lena  drifts  in  large  quantities.  As  far  as  the  district  of  Yakutsk,  where 
he  is  now  situated,  he  has  observjed  120  altitudes  by  the  barometer,  apd  fifteen  by 
the  hypsometer ;  the  two  Bussiau  maps  which  he  uses,  are,  he  says,  full  of  errors. 
He  hopes  to  be  able  very  shortly  to  reach  the  watershed  uortli  of  the  Stanovoi 
Mountains.— Colonel  (now  General)  Yeoukufl",  whr>  has  just  been  uppi»inted  foreign 
correspondent,  sent  two  letters ;  one  relative  to  the  travels  of  M,  Lessar  in  1882,* 
the  other  having  reference  to  two  new  meteorological  stations,  established  in  the 
north  of  Bussia  at  Meseua  (Europe)  and  at  Berezov  (Asia)  respectively.  The 
Bituation  uf  these  two  posts  on  the  west  and  east  of  the  Ural  Mountains,  and  away 
from  the  action  of  the  Gulf  Stream  and  its  ramifications,  gives  them  a  peculiar  im- 
jnortauce.  From  there  come  in  fact,  says  our  correspondent,  those  cold,  dry  winds 
which  from  time  to  time  sweep  over  the  surface  of  Europe,  extending  as  far  as  the 
banks  of  the  Ilhine,  and  even  further  to  the  west.— The  Society  of  Historical  Studies 
gave  notice  that  it  had  opened  a  comiDetition  with  a  prize  of  lOOO  irancs,  to  l>e 
awarded  in  1884,  upon  the  following  question :  "  The  effects,  from  an  economist's 
point  of  view,  of  the  cutting  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  on  the  relations  of  Europe 
with  the  countries  washed  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  (Western  America,  Oceania, 
Eastern  Asia).- The  inventors,  makers,  and  fiatentees  of  a  vehicle,  called  "  Voiture 
d'Esploration,"  which  is  intended  for  the  use  of  travellers  in  distant  lands,  sub- 
mitteil  their  invention  to  the  Society.  This  vehicle  is  made  of  iron  throughout ;  it 
is  water-tight,  and  can  be  taken  to  pieces ;  if  necessary  it  can  be  made  into  a  boat ; 
when  travelling  on  very  difficult  roads  it  is  taken  to  pieces  and  these  are  carried  by 
a  mule.— In  conclusion,  a  short  extract  was  read  by  M.  F.  Fernandez  on  the  recent 
progress  of  the  Argentine  Pepublicf 

•  Si^  R.  G.  8.  •  Proceedings,"  1883,  No.  I,  p.  1  H  seq. 

t  To  be  published  in  the  quarterly  Bullt'tin  of  the  Society. 


Jannary  19th,  1883:  Dr.  Hamy,  Vice-Preaident,  in  tlio  Chair.— The 

CbAlnnAQ  acnoiJDC&l  the  reconstiltition  of  the  Bitmiu  fur  1883,  which  had  ju«t 

Hken  place.     The  following  hftd  been  elected :— -President  of  the  Central  Conimis- 

rion,  M.  Antoine  d'Abbadie  (of  the  Institute);  Vici»-PresidenlH,MM.  Bouquet  de  la 

Grye  and  Dr.  Hamy  ;  General  Secretary,  Bl  Mannoir,  who  retains  the  duties  which  he 

Us  for  so  many  years  discharged  so  efficiently ;  he  will  be  assisted  by  MM.  J,  Giranl 

»Qd  .Taquier,  Secretaries.— In  the  absence  of  MM.  d'Abbadie  and  Bfjuquot  de  la  Grye, 

who  liad  not  returned,  the  former  from  the  Antilles  and  the  latter  from  Mexico, 

where  they  had  gone  to  observe  the  transit  of  Venus,  M.  le  Dr.  Homy  opened  the 

63rd  Sesrion  of  the  Geographical   Society  of  Paris. — Matlame  Francis  Gamier 

intimated  that  a  subscription  had  just  been  open«l  at  Saigon  (Cochin  Cliina)  to  erect 

1  btt»t  to  the  memory  of  her  late  husband.— It  was  stated  that  the  remains  of  M.  J. 

Bounat,  the  French  traveller  in  Africa,  who  died  on  the  8th  July,  1881,  at  Taquah, 

bid  been  brought  back  to  France,  as  announced  at  the  last  meeting,  and  that  they 

kdbeen  interred  at  Pont-de-Vaux.     M.  Vcrillon,  as  representative  of  the  Society, 

W  delivere*!  an  oration,  of  which  he  gave  notice,  over  the  grave.     A  jpropos  of  this, 

nftcrection  should  be  made  in  the  report  of  the  last  meeting.    "SI.  Bounat,  who  died 

It  the  age  of  35  (not  42),  has  left  a  sum  of  money  to  establish  a  mission  among  the 

AlitfQtia,  not  at  Dahomey  (aa  stated). — The  French   legation  at  Buenos  Ayres  ^^^ 

iraijMuitted  a  report  of  M.  G.  Marguin,  with  two  maps  of  that  ymrt  of  the  Pilcomayo         ^^M 

t       which  has  \:>een  exitlorcd   by   the   Argentine  expedition   sent   in    search   of  the  ^^| 

rttwiiw  of  Crevftux.     M.  Marguin  formed  part  of  that  exj)editioii.     His  account  V 

famishes  us  with  the  first  information  which  has  been  obtained  as  to  the  course  of  I 

riiij  rirer.     The  report  and  maps  are  to  be  published  in  the  fortnightly  Bulletin, —  I 

JL  Fa'il  Soleillct  wrote  from  Ankober  (Shoa,  South  Abyssinia)  on  lOlh  November, 
lg82,  that  he  wm  going  to  start  in  a  few  days  for  KafTu,  where  he  will  romain  about 
tm  mooths;  that  he  had  met  Dr.  Steckor,  who  should  also  be  at  KuflTa.     The  king 
hii^it  appears,  made  large  concessions  to  the  Comfiany  which  M.  Suleillet  represents. 
He(M.  Soleillet)  speaks  especially  of  the  immense  foresta  of  olive-trees  which  exist 
diere;  if  they  were  grafted,  they  would  rival  those  of  Kabylia.     The  Company  will 
bff,  for  twenty-five  years,  half  the  prcxreeds  of  the  harvest. — Several  items  of 
iafornuition  regarding  Russian  travellers  were  received  from  Colonel  (now  Major- 
6«oeral}  VeankoflF.     He  states  thRt  Mdlle.  Gutcharoff,  who  is  following  in  the  f«.H>t- 
iteips  of  Mesdames  WaAsiliefl'  and  Fedchenko,  is  to  accomiiany  Dr.  Junker,  now 
prrpving  to  fctart  for  Central  Africa ;  that  M.  Puliakuff  has  returned  from  the  island 
tftSAkhaUn,  bringing  with  him  important  geological  and  anthropological  collections. 
fie  (M.  Poliakoff)  has  ascertained  that  Russian  colonisation  is  making  rapid  progress 
tbfTC- M.  Yavorski  is  now  publishing  the  account  of  his  journey  to  Cabul  (1878-9), 
•hich  General  VenukofT  believes  will  afford  much  interest  to  geographers.     An 
Otract  sent  by  him  from  this  account,  siys  that  the  once  famous  town  of  Bamian, 
lathe  Hindu  Kush,  exists  only  in  ruins,  a  citadel  being  all  that  remains, — M.  Straoch, 
Siaetiiry  of  the  International  African  Association   at  Brussels,  sent  a  resume  of 
(be  oontfint.3  of  the  last  letters  received  from  MM.  Storms  and  Becker.     From  this  it 
appears  that  M.  Storms  arrived  at  Karoma  un  the  27th  September,  1882,  having  left 
th«  coast  on  the  9lh  June  ;  thus  he  had  ordy  taken  three  months  and  a  half  to  make 
this  journey  —  an  uuparalleled  feat.     The  black  ix>pulation  is  developing  rapidly 
ia  the  place  ;  as  many  as  tifty  famili^  can  be  oounte<l,  each  dwelling  in  a  separate 
int.     M.  Pecker  has  opcneil  up  new  roads  to  facilitate  the  clearing;  but  he  was 
joing  to  return  to  Eiirojie  shortly,  only  temporarily  however,  for  ho  will  ask  yer- 
oUon  to  return  to  the  country,  where  he  has,  to  use  his  own  word?,  "  lived  happily 
HDOCg  the  people  he  has  been  able  to  rescue  from  slavery."— The  Society  wae  in- 
famrd  of  the  reoent  departure  of  th«  new  pa|<A]  vicar  of  Central  Africa,  Monseignear 
Ko.  XL— Feb.  1883.]  i 


1. 


^ 


106 


PROCEEDINGS  0¥  FOliElGX  SOCIETIES. 


Fr.  Sogaro,  who  has  just  set  sail  for  Egypt,  wlicnce  lie  will  reacli  Khartum  and  the 
Upper  Nile.  The  countries  entrusted  to  his  care  Jiad  that  of  bia  misaionaries  are 
immense  and  for  the  most  jKirt  .unexiilorcd;  they  comprise  that  vast  region  of 
Central  Africa  lying  bttvvecn  the  Sahara  on  the  north  and  the  Equator  on  the 
south,  and  ix>unded  on  the  cast  by  the  Nile  and  on  the  west  by  the  Niger. — llie 
rcjwrt  of  the  meeting  of  tho  Italian  Geogi-aphical  Society  at  Rome,  hold  (»th  January, 
WAS  read.  It  was  at  this  meeting  that  M.  Bove,  naval  lieutenant,  made  a  state- 
ment ujion  his  recent  expdition  to  South  Patagonia  and  Tierra  del  Fuego,  This 
report  is  taken  from  the  journal  Ultalie  of  the  10th  January.  The  object  of  the 
expedition  was  not,  as  haa  been  affirmed,  the  exploration  of  the  Antarctic  regions,  but 
simply  of  South  Patagonia  and  Tierra  del  Fuego  (the  hydrography  and  physical 
conditions  of  which  were  scarcely  known)  and  also  of  the  Antarctic  seas.— 
M.  William  Huber  laid  on  the  table  a  set  of  new  surveys,  which  have  been  made 
recently  by  the  West  Switzerland  and  Simplon  Jiailway  Company,  with 
reference  to  the  new  cutting  of  the  Alpa  by  way  of  the  Simplon.  These 
surveys  have  been  considered  necesj^ary  in  order  to  answer  various  objections  raised 
against  the  rouj^h  draft -scheme  of  1878,  es^Tecially  regarding  the  very  steep 
declivities  on  the  Italian  side.  These  survey's  have  special  reference  to  Mont  Blanc. 
M.  HuJjer  gave  a  rapid  analysis  of  the  documeats  presented  by  the  comfiany.— M.  J. 
Jackson,  librarian  and  record  keeper  of  the  society,  read  a  report  upon  the  state  of 
tho  library  in  the  year  1882.  He  stated  that  the  following  additions  had  been 
made: — 1049  works,  comprising  1542  volumes  (exclusive  of  412  jxriodicala),  170 
maps  in  609  sheets,  and  25  aliases.  The  society  has  now  in  its  possession  600 
])ortraita  of  gei>graphcrs  and  of  French  and  foreign  travellers. — M.  Chervin  offered 
some  observation s  ujciu  the  last  census  of  the  French  population,  as  oomi^ared  with 
that  of  other  States;  and  M.  Chajxcourtois  remarked  brieily  on  tho  recent  circular 
issued  by  the  United  SuUck  concerning  the  adoption  of  a  common  initial  meridian 
and  of  a  universal  hour. — If.  Ch.  Gautlriot,  General  Secretary  of  the  Commercial 
Ge<^gTaphical  Society  of  Paris,  gave  some  information  of  the  German  lieutenant 
Wissmaun,  who  has  just  accomplished  a  journey  across  tho  African  continent  from 
west  to  east,  or  in  an  opjwsite  direction  to  his  pretlecessora  (Serpa  Pinto  excepted). 
He  started  in  Januarj'  1881,  and  arrived  on  the  east  coast  on  the  17th  November, 
1882.  He  has  traversed  one  of  the  least-known  countries  in  the  interior  of  Africa  ; 
the  country,  he  says,  is  densely  populated.  His  travels  have  extended  over  3600 
kilometres,  of  which  one-third  was  in  unknown  territory,  1'his  exploration,  which 
has  been  conducted  wiib  sitcli  energy  and  skill,  \y\\\  prove,  says  M.  Gauthlot,  must 
profitable  to  science. — M.  L'Abl>o  Guyot,  the  newly-arrived  missionary  from  Africa, 
entertained  the  Society  with  an  accoimt  of  two  journeys  made  by  him  in  this  region. 
In  187£thchad  been  commissioned  to  couduct  a  convoy  of  Algerian  miBsionariea  to  the 
Great  Lakes.  According  to  M,  Guyot,  fever  is  the  most  dreaded  enemy  of  the  new- 
comer ;  the  climate  is  too  enervating,  and  may  be  compared  to  a  leaden  weight  upon 
one's  shoulders.  Of  thirty-five  missionaries  who  have  set  out  in  two  or  three  years 
to  evangtilise,  sixteen  have  succumbed  to  the  fatal  attacks  of  fever,  and  four  have  been 
massjicred  by  the  negroes.  On  his  return  from  his  second  journey,  Pi're  Guj'ot, 
having  lieen  left  to  choose  his  route,  determincl  to  ascertain  whether  llie  Luaha, 
Euaha,  or  Lufigi,  the  great  river  which  issues  from  the  Great  Lakes  and  discharges 
itself  into  the  sea  below  Zanzibar,  was  navigable.  Ho  is  now  preimring  a  map  of 
the  country  which  he  has  gone  over.  Ho  sailed  along  the  Kizigo,  a  tributary  of  the 
Unaha  from  the  southern  bank,  and  still  unknown,  which  divides  Ugogo  from  the 
eouulry  of  the  Wahehe  and  Mafiti,  who  are  great  warriors,  and  robber.*.  From 
there  he  entered  a  couTitry  entirely  desert,  where,  however,  he  says  he  made  some 
iatercstiug  observations.    The  result  of  this  excursion,  which  bsted  seventy-two 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  '  107 

^|g,  is  that  the  Iluaha  is  not  navigable ;  it  is  a  very  beautiful,  broad  watercourse; 
aod,  while  in  some  parts  it  is  extremely  narrow,  in  others  its  bed  is  dotted  over  with 
tcniant  islets,  which  are  charming  to  the  eye,  but  impede  navigation  to  a  large 
esteDt;  moreover,  rocks,  heaped  together  by  storms,  offer  an  almost  insurmountable 
oiNtaclo  to  navigation.  The  Ruaha,  in  common  with  nearly  all  the  rivers  of  this 
jtft  of  Africa,  teems  with  hippopotami  and  crocodiles.  The  traveller  remarks  that 
wtoerer  the  hippopotamus  is  found,  the  crocodile  thrives  there  also.  Fere  Guyot 
jigoiDg  to  start  very  shortly  for  the  CoDgo ;  passing  by  Stanley  Fool,  he  will  explore 
^  unknown  r^ons  which  extend  beyond  this  point,  and  will  advance  as  far  as  he 
poniUy  can. — In  conclusion,  M.  H.  Tarry  offered  some  remarks  upon  the  Mzab 
Toritory,  which  has  just  been  annexed  to  the  French  Algerian  possessions.  He 
tocribed  the  country  and  the  manners  of  its  inhabitants,  and  intimated  that  the 
nench  Alpne  Club  were  already  organising  an  excursion  to  Mzab,  which  is  to  take 
plsoe  shortly. 

Geographieal  Society  of  Stockholm.  —  November  17th,  1882 :  Frofessor 
Are.  FaiBs,  President,  in  the  Chair. — At  the  commencement  of  the  meeting  the 
Ptaiident  exhibited  and  explained  the  objects  from  the  Fiji  Islands  presented  by 
OoDsal  Eopsen,  as  well  as  some  assegais  presented  by  King  Cetewayo.  —The  next 
tpaka  was  Baron  G.  de  Geer,  the  leader  of  the  geological  expedition  despatched  last 
flnnmer  by  the  Swedish  Academy  of  Sciences  to  Spitzbergen,  who  delivered  an 
address  on  the  geography  of  Spitzbergen.  Although  the  object  of  the  expedition  had 
been  to  study  the  geological  features  of  the  islands,  many  observations  tending  to 
throw  light  on  their  general  geography  had  also  been  made,  and  the  speaker 
cxhilnted  two  maps  made  by  two  previous  expeditions  which  had  been  carefully 
caiTCCtcd  by  the  last  one.  The  first  of  these  showed  the  shape  of  the  fjords  and 
nllejs  of  South  Spitzbergen,  and  the  estimated  extension  of  the  inland  ice,  and  the 
tecood  the  depth  of  the  sea  around  Spitzbei^en  and  Scandinavia.  The  speaker 
pwnted  out  that  these  two  countries,  as  well  as  the  intervening  Beercn  Island,  were 
lidges  on  a  comparatively  level  plateau,  bounded  a  little  west  of  the  same  by  the 
deq>  ocean ;  ho  also  gave  a  description  of  the  area  and  form  of  Spitzbergen,  as  well 
« the  geological  formation  of  the  island  in  relation  to  the  topographical.  Of  special 
geographical  interest  also  was  the  close  relation  between  the  deep  and  numerous 
Qards  and  the  valleys,  which  the  speaker  believed  with  Frof.  Nordenakjold  were  not 
doc  to  upheavals,  nor  to  running  water,  but  to  glaciers.  And  from  the  marks  found 
on  the  rocks  of  Beeren  Island,  it  might  be  supposed  that  the  inland  ice  of  Spitzbergen 
bd  extended  thus  far  during  the  glacial  i)eriod.  This  period  was  followed  by  a 
snking  of  the  land  both  in  Spitzbergen  and  Scandinavia ;  but  at  a  later  date  it  had 
agun  risen  above  the  plateau  before  mentioned,  with  the  appearance  it  now  pre- 
KDts.  It  was  impossible  to  explain  otherwise  how  the  flora  and  fauna  of  Scandinavia 
ifki  found  their  way  to  this  island,  nearly  700  miles  from  the  continent.  He  con- 
cdered  that  at  the  end  of  the  glacial  period  the  Gulf  Stream  flowed  in  a  more 
lortherly  direction  than  at  present,  thus  explaining  the  pre-historic  mild  climate  of 
the  island.  Baron  de  Geer  concluded  his  address  by  showing  some  remains  of  a 
Snasian  cabin  found  at  Eckman  Bay,  which  ho  believed  to  be  about  a  hundred  years 
old. — The  last  to  address  the  meeting  was  Dr.  Montelius,  who  spoke  on  the  bronze 
period  in  Asia.  He  believed  that  bronze  had  not  been  introduced  into  Europe  by 
way  of  the  Caucasus,  but  through  Asia  Minor  to  Southern  Europe,  and  hence  to  the 
Xorth. 

Geographical  Society  of  Copenhagen.— December  5th,  1882 :  M.  Labsbk 
gne  an  account  of  his  journey  last  winter  through  Siberia  with  the  Jeannette  Search 
Expedition.    He  stated  that,  as  recently  as  ten  years  ago,  our  general  knowledge  of 

x8 


108 


KEW  BOOKS. 


Siberia  was  oonQned  to  tbe  greftt  watercourses,  bul  thnt  n;uch  inrormation  had  been 
gained  by  tiie  late  expeditioas  into  the  country,  and  not  the  least  by  tbo  expedition 
in  questJOD.  He  had  particijMitjed  in  tt  as  the  special  artist  of  the  Illustrated  Lomloti 
Ifetos.  The  route  was  via  Orenburg  by  sleijrhs  to  Omsk.  One  ni;^ht,  while  bk>ckocl 
by  the  enow,  the  party  imd  been  attacked  by  wolves,  which  however  disjjcrsed  when 
fired  at.  The  speaker  did  not  Ixslieve  in  the  statements  aa  to  the  notnber  of  wolveg 
in  Siberia.  Tliey  often  met  Kirghiz  traders  riding  on  camels,  and  had  onoo  visited 
one  of  their  (^ampa,  where  they  were  received  by  the  chiefs  with  great  courtesy. 
There  was  a  regular  school  there,  where  children  from  three  to  five  years  were  t.iugbt 
reading.  From  Omsk  the  journey  wjis  continued  to  Irkutsk,  the  capital  of  Siberia, 
an  elegant  and  flourishing  city,  and  further  along  the  Lena  to  Yakutsk,  and  hence  to 
Verkajansk,  a  place  which  holds  the  position  of  havin^j  the  lowest  average  tempera- 
ture on  the  earth.  At  the  latter  place  they  met  Mr.  Melville,  of  the  Jeannette,  with 
the  body  of  De  Long.  M.  Larsen  gave  an  account  of  the  lifuling  and  position  of  the! 
bodies  of  the  crew»  whose  deaths  must  have  been  very  ]>ainful»  judging  from  appear- 
ances. In  Ms  opiJiion,  Mr.  De  Long  and  his  i>arty  would  have  be<;u  alive  if  they  bad 
taken  with  thera  shot  guna  instead  of  rifles,  as  ptarmigans  were  plentiful  in  tba' 
delta.  Had  he  arrived  there  two  days  earlier,  he  would  also  have  met  some  natives. 
The  speaker,  in  conclusion,  saifi  that  after  having  relieved  the  search-party  tinder 
Lieutenant  Berry,  which  had  been  without  freih  meat  or  tish  for  two  months,  the 
expedition  returned  to  Yakutsk  in  the  spring  after  a  very  laborious  journey. 


I 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E.  0.  Ens,  Librarian  r.o.b.) 

EUROrE. 

Helmergen,  G.  VOa. — Geologisoho  und  pliVBico-geograplasche  Beobachtungen  itn 
Oloaczcr  Bergrevier.  St.  Petersburg  (Buciuiruckerei  der  k.  Akademie  dor  Wisaeu- 
Bchaften) :  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  412,  map,  and  atlas  of  i>latcs.     Trice  10s. 


I 


by 


I 


Asien'H,^  formerly 

L.  von  Schreuck.  The  author  origiually  conducted  personal  researches  in  the 
mountain  region  of  the  Olonetz  Government  (south  of  Archangel  and  east  of 
Finland,  containing  Lake  Onega)  some  twenty.two  years  ago,  and  puLlidhod  a 
sketch  of  the  results  in  vol.  iii.  of  the  *  Memoirs*  of  the  St.  Petersburij  Acadenvy 
of  Sciences.  He  now  elaborates  the  subject,  incorporating  the  information  sub- 
sequently obtfiined  by  the  travels  of  other  scientific  men,  whom  he  enumerates, 
giving  also  a  brief  chronological  account  of  the  attempts  at  iron-working  in  the 
district  since  the  seventeenth  century.  As  regards  econonjio  minemhi,  he  dis- 
believes in  the  old  and  unsubstantiated  account  of  gold  occurring  in  Olonet?., 
and  Btates  that,  although  ironstone  is  found  in  certain  places,  it  is  not  workable 
to  a  profit,  though  bog-ore  is  more  plentiful.  He  also  gives  a  short  account  of 
the  anthracite  dej^jsits,  and  rt'proiluces  in  the  appendix  various  uld  reports  on 
the  copiwr-mines  by  Von  Harrsch-  His  own  observations  (mainly  uf  a  geo- 
logical nature)  refer  to  the  forniations  of  the  different  localities  visited,  and  are  ■ 
frequently  illustrated  by  small  drawings.  Some  barometrical  tables  and  depths  flj 
conclude  the  work.  The  map  is  geoktgical,  but  there  are  some  rectifications,  ' 
&C.,  of  the  maps  of  the  Ulouetz  Governmeut  at  p.  281. 

The  atlas  contains  plates  of  geological  objects  and  views  of  interesting  ixiint* 
(b-uch  as  the  church  and  bouse  of  Teter  the  Great  at  the  mineral  spring  ol' 
Marxiahiya  Wody). 


NEW  BOOKS. 


109 


Otsterley,  [Dr.]  Hermann, — Hi'slorisch-geograpliisclies  Worterbuch  des  deutschen 
M»uelalt«i-5.  Gotha  (Justus*  Perthes):  1883,  am.  4to.,  pj).807,  in  double  column. 
(Pn/uu  :  price  1/.  Is.) 

The  firet  part  of  this  clabornto  work,  by  the  learned  Librarirtn  of  Breslau 

llTftWewitT,  was  noticed  in  our  '  ProocedinRs '  for  1881,  p.  2-1(3.     His  object  and 

were  fully  explained  by  himself  in  Petennann'a  'Mittheilungon'  for  that 

*•,  p.  194  et  teq.,  and  the  now  completed  book  can  scarcely  fail  to  be  of  the 

St  value  to  ail  students  of  tli*»  history  or  geography  of  the  great  area  covered 

T>v  the  term  Germany  in  and  Bubse<iueut  to  the  middle  agea.    An  cnormoua 

-r  of  Dtimes  (aorae  48,000)  is  given,  with  a  brief  definition  of  ibe  localities 

iich  they  refer,  when  identified,  under  their  modem  accepted  orthograytby ; 

tllowed  by  a  chronologically  arranged  series  of  the  different  renderings  of  each, 

1  Ml  exact  bibliographical  referetice  to  tlie  authors  t^uoted  for  the  latter. 

SobinAon,  C.  E. — A  Royal  Warren,  or  Picturesc|ue  Rambles  in  the  Isle  of  Purbeck. 
Uodou  (The  Typographic  Etching  Company,  23,  Farringdon  Street)  :  1882,  4to., 
pp.  riv.  and  186,  map,  illustrations.     Price  1/.  IDs. 

K  To  be  noticed  here  for  the  peculiar  attention  paid  in  it  to  the  smaller  points 

^L  ef  physical  geography,  and  the  excellence  of  the  etchings  and  illastrations  of 
^^^t  lopographicaT  subjects  (by  Alfred  Dawson),  to  whiclx  the  process  of  typographic 
^^^Vctching,  OS  exi>lainetl  in  the  prel'ace,  apj^ars  to  be  esjjecially  adapted. 


ASIA. 


Ihcgregor,  [Major-General  Sir]  C.  H. — Wanderings  in  Dalochistan.  liondon 
[W.H.  Allen  &  Co.):  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  3li>  [no  Index  or  table  of  contents],  map  in 
coTtr,  illustrationi».     Price  18s. 

After  hi£  explorations  in  Khorasan  in  1875,  the  author  started  at  the  end  of 
September  in  the  following  year  with  the  late  Cupbiin  R.  B,  Lockwood,  his 
ob]«ct  being  to  examine  the  nature  an  J  military  caiMibilities  of  the  country  from 
Ifekran  northwanls  and  westwards  across  the  deKert  ui  Khanxn  to  the  southern 
Afghanistan  boundary,  and  to  return  to  India  across  Ikiuchi^tan.  The  area 
wopoeed  to  be  explored,  though  tmversed  near  the  coast  by  the  R>ute8  of  a  few 
iiritish  oftioers,  and  in  two  directions  in  ihe  interior  by  Poiiinger  and  Christie, 
14  for  the  most  jjart  quite  unknown,  or  only  i^iartially  and  very  incorrectly 
tlefined  ;  po  that  the  rtsults  of  the  present  journey  add  extensively  to  geo- 
graphical as  well  JUS  jirofessional  knowled'jre,  Wtli  in  tojjography  and  the  wider 
{ibyacftl  features,  as  shoxs^n  by  a  comparison  of  the  map  accompanying  tbia 
volame  and  that  of  Sir  CJliver  St.  John. 

It  niay  be  observed  that  the  autlmr'a  explorations  were  conducted  in  tlie 
«me  year  as  tboHe  of  Mr.  E.  A.  FWer,  and  that  tla-y  coiitimie  that  travuller'a 
Work  towards  the  east,  cornmeiiciDg  a  Utile  to  the  east  of  bis  furihest  eastern 
{wint,  the  two  routes  in  no  case  overlapping. 

Arrived  at  Jask,  tiie  author  and  his  companion  went  on  to  Gwadur  by  sea  ; 
nod  after  a  discussion  of  the  puinta  on  tiie  oKist  at  which  it  would  Vie  possible 
to  dwembark  a  force,  he  came  to  ihe  concluijiun  tliat,  only  Pusrii  and  the  Dasht 
river  were  suitable.  Captain  Lockwood  therefore  imdertook  the  route  from  the 
latter  point,  and,  after  visiting  t!ie  mouth  of  the  river,  followe<l  it  north-east  to 
Kantadar,  and  theDCc  to  Pidark,  fmm  which  he  strack  more  or  less  east  to 
Gwarkop,  Thai,  and  Dalor,  turning  unrth  from  the  latter  ^wint  pist  Nal,  and 
tjuining  the  author  furiher  north  at  Miri  Isai,  it  should  l>e  notwl  that  the 
ames  on  the  map  frequently  diller  luaterially  from  those  in  ihc  text,  and  that 
map  shows  (probably  in  error)  a  route  iruiu  Biilor  south  to  Ormara  on  the 
at,  which  is  referred  to  in  the  api»endix,  but  of  which  no  mention  api)ears  iu 
be  text. 

The  author,  on  leaving  Captain  Lockwood,  turned  cast  along  the  telegraph 

J  line  on  the  Mekran  coast  as  far  as  Pusni,  where  there  is  a  station,  and  then 

[•Struck  north  to  Dokani  and  north-west  to  Pidark,  turning  east  again  along  the 

valley  and  uorlk-tast  by  the  Batgatar  depression  (ticcasioually  a  lake 


no 


NEW  BOdIi;' 


basin,  judging  by  its  physical  formation)  to  Tosh,  from  which  he  continued 
north  to  Miri  laai  in  Pivnjgur.  This  district  appeared  to  Iw  the  limit  northwardH 
of  any  approacli  to  accurate  knowledge,  and  the  ranges  of  hills  bo  far  were 
found  to  run  east  and  west,  the  connecting  spurs  rtinrun^  norih  and  south. 
Various  corrections  in  the  received  to^wgraphy  of  the  Panjjjpir  region  will  be 
found  at  p.  117. 

A  detour  was  then  made,  passing  the  western  ends  of  the  true  Panjgur 
range  and  the  more  northern  Koh-i-Sabz,  and  following  the  Rnkshan,  past  its 
junction  with  the  Mashkel,  alou<4  the  CAsteru  extenfiion  of  the  Siahan  Koh  into 
the  Kharan  desert,  and  then  north  to  Badu.  Pottinger^s  Biidur  river  is  appar- 
ently the  Mashkel ;  and  a&  regards  the  Kharan  deaert,  it  is  shown  to  be  inter- 
sected iu  almost  every  direction  by  roads  with  a  more  or  less  plentiful  water 
supply,  and  to  be  bisectfd  by  the  natural  highway  of  tho  latter  river.  The 
gradually  drying  Masbktd  bed  was  then  followed  north-west,  past  its  swampy 
flouroej  and  the  travellera  struck  due  north  across  the  dessert  to  the  Baad-i-Naru 
range,  beyond  which  lies  the  God-i-Zirreh  depresaiou.  In  croeaing  this  jxirt  of 
the  desert,  the  author  describes  (p.  157)  and  figures  enormous  horseshoe  ibrma- 
tions  of  faad»  similar  to  the  •*  foljeH  **  described  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Blunt  in  our 
'Proceedings'  for  1880,  p.  94  (see  also  Blanford,  I.  c.  p.  99),  and  also  in  the 
Appendix  to  Lady  Anno  Bluut's  '  Pilgrimage  to  Nejd,'  vol.  ii.  pp.  242  and  243, 
with  woodcuts  (see  also  vol.  I  p.  160,  with  plate),  of  wlxich  Sir  C.  Macgregor 
appears  to  be  imaware. 

After  following  the  north  side  of  the  Nam  range  westwards  to  Amir  Chah, 
the  travellers  turned  ofl'  north-west  across  tho  desert  to  tho  west  end  of  tho 
Zirreh  depression,  the  continuation  of  tho  Shela  or  dry  bed  of  the  Halmand ; 
and  although  the  author  makes  little  reference  to  personal  danger,  it  is  clear 
that  during  this  pait  of  the  journey  at  least  he  must  have  been  iu  a  very  painful 
position,  from  the  ignorance  of  his  guide  and  the  continued  want  of  water. 
The  description  of  bis  last  forced  march  is  indeed  anything  but  pleasant 
reading.  Ihe  furthest  westward  point  reached  was  "  Shah  Godmr  "  of  the  map 
('*  Gumbaz-i-Shah  Maksud"of  the  text),  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Lar  Koh, 
and  just  south  of  the  Afghan  boundary. 

The  return  journey  wai«  coniraenced  in  a  southerly  direction  towards  tha 
Kacha  Koh  range,  then  south-east  and  cast  along  the  north  aido  of  tho  Naru 
range  to  Amir  Cbah,  where  some  of  the  party  had  been  left,  continuing  east  to 
Lai  Khan  Chali.  At  this  priint,  Cajtain  LockwcKxl  parted  from  the  author, 
reaching  the  Indian  frontier  by  a  more  direct  road  viiChfigeh,  Nushki,  Masking, 
and  Dadar ;  and  Sir  C.  Macgregor  took  a  more  southern  aud  i)ractically  parallel 
route  by  the  Morjln  valley,  across  the  Uas-Koli  range,  to  the  valky  of  the 
Badu,  crossing  that  river,  which  doubles  round  to  the  east  and  had  to  be  re- 
crossed  after  the  Tazinun  range  was  ]iassod,  its  source  being  in  a  south-westerly 
direction  parallel  to  iis  course  north  of  that  range.  After  reaching  JSohmf,  tho 
author  travelled  south-cast  to  Nar,  then  north-east  to  Gandava,  and  bo  to 
Jacobabad. 

The  whole  of  these  dilTicult  routes  are  described  accurately,  with  minute 
attention  to  salient  features  of  physical  geography  nnd  tho  special  military 
objects  of  the  journey.  All  the  im|x>rtant  topographicfll  points  are  represented 
(in  a  roi;gh  fashion,  somewhat  obscured  by  shading  lines)  on  the  illustratioas, 
of  which  some  are  atrikinily  peculiar,  e.  g.  the  water-worn  formations  of  white 
clay  on  the  banks  of  the  Mashkel  (p.  128). 

The  most  important  additions  and  correclions  on  the  map  (scale,  16  miles 
to  the  inch),  compared  with  that  of  Sir  O.  St.  John,  are  the  numerous  new 
ixffiitions,  &c.,  iu  the  desert  Wtween  Panjgur  and  the  Halmand,  including 
ranges  running  more  or  less  east  and  west,  and  towards  tlia  east  breaking  up 
the  Pusht-i-Knh  of  St,  John  ;  the  different  jxjsition  of  the  Zirreh  depression, 
which  is  not  north-west  and  wmlli-west,  but  east  and  west ;  the  definition  of  the 
course  of  the  "Mawhkid"  (Mashkel),  which  has  no  jKJSsiblo  connection  with 
the  God-i-Zirreh  ;  the  continuation  south-east  of  tho  Kuh  Taftan  peak  as  a 
range  connected  with  the  Sianeh  Kuh,  &c. 

The  work  concludes  with  two  Appendices,  of  which  one  contains  details, 
often  of  considerable  geograiihical  interest  (for  instance,  the  description  of  the 


NEW  BOOKS.  Ill 

dfwrt  immediately  south  of  the  HaUnand,  p.  311\  of  tweaty-three  different 
ivutes ;  and  the  other  consists  of  observations  of  political  importance  in  regturd 
to  the  boundaries  of  Baluchistan. 

ffffith^  Georg^e. — The  Student's  Geography  of  India.  The  Geography  of  British 
India,  Political  and  PhysicaL  London  (John  Murray) :  1882,  sm.  8vo.,  pp.  xxvi. 
and  556,  maps.     Price  7$.  Gd, 

An  excessively  condensed  mass  of  information  (**  the  result  of  twenty  years 
of  preparation  "),  from  the  most  trustworthy  sources,  under  two  heads,  of  which 
the  first  (by  far  the  larger)  discusses  the  political  geography  of  British  India  in 
d^ail,  and  that  of  the  colonies  and  countries  within  its  political  system  more 
biefly ;  and  the  second  ("  Physiography  ")  summarises  the  latest  results  of  the 
(}€ol(^ical  and  Meteorological  Surveys.  Chapter  II.  of  the  first  part  contains  a 
sketch  of  the  physical  geography  of  India  as  a  whole ;  and  the  difi'erent  provinces 
of  Bengal,  Assam,  British  Burma,  Andaman  and  Nicobar  islands,  North-Westem 
province  (with  Oudh  section),  Panjab,  Bombay,  Ajmer,  Baroda  Rajpootana  and 
Central  India  States,  Central  Province,  Berar,  Uaidarabad  State,  Madras, 
Cooi^,  Mysore  State,  and  the  widely-spread  colonies  and  countries  within  the 
political  system  of  India  (including  Abyssinia,  North  Borneo,  &c.),  are  subse- 
qaently  treated  separately  with  their  minor  divisions,  and  also  in  a  general  way 
as  regards  the  larger  groups. 

The  frontjspioce  represents  Europe  and  India  on  the  same  scale,  with  inset 
table  of  popuDations  and  areas  of  the  chief  countries  in  each  as  nearly  balanced 
as  possible  for  comparative  purposes ;  there  are  also  eleven  maps,  scale  95  miles 
to  the  inch,  of  the  chief  provinces,  &c,  and  four  isothermal  and  isobaric  charts, 
with  a  rainfall  map.  The  appendix  contains  a  bibliography  (pp.  Sll-S'^l) 
roughly  arranged  by  dates  of  the  periods  discussed  in  each  work,  with  official 
publications  and  maps ;  and  a  full  Index  of  some  5200  names  enables  the  work 
to  be  used  as  a  Gazetteer  for  ordinary  general  purposes. 

The  official  spelling  is  retained,  with  the  omission  of  accents  or  other  marks 
(except  sometimes  to  denote  quantity),  and  with  the  substitution  of  "  ce  "  for 
"i''andof"oo''for"u." 

AFRICA. 

Burton,  Eichard  F.,  and  Cameron,  Vemey  tovctt— To  the  Gold  Coast  for 
Gold.  A  personal  narrative.  London  (Chatto  &  Windus):  1883,  2  vols., 
post  Svo.,  pp.  xii.  &  354,  vi.  &  381,  maps,  coloured  frontispiece.    Price  1?.  Is. 

The  strictly  geographical  results  of  the  journey  made  by  Captains  Burton 
and  Cameron  to  Axim  at  the  end  of  January  1882,  have  been  published  in  our 
*  Proceedings '  for  that  year,  pp.  4154-486  of  which  volume  contain  a  paper  on 
the  Kong  Mountains  by  the  former  traveller,  and  pp.  501-507  a  discussion  by 
the  latter  of  a  sketch  survey  of  the  Ancobra  and  Prince's  rivers  and  of  the 
Takwa  range.  Gold  Coast  The  details  are  here  supplied  by  Captain  Burton, 
who  in  the  first  volume  gives  some  250  preliminary  pages  of  interesting  matter 
both  descriptive  and  referential  about  Madeira,  Tenerife,  and  Grand  Canary, 
concluding  it  with  similar  treatment  of  Sierra  Leone,  which  is  continued  in  the 
beginning  of  vol.  ii.  The  journey  to  Cape  Palmaa  and  Axim  and  thence  north 
and  north-west  to  Crockerville  in  Wasa  beyond  Takwa,  with  the  return,  and 
particulars  of  the  mining  region,  occupy  the  bulk  of  this  second  volume,  which 
contains  in  an  Appendix  a  discussion  of  "  the  Ashanti  scare,**  the  labour  question 
in  Western  Africa,  and  gold-digging  in  North-Westem  Africa,  concluding  with 
lists  of  the  birds,  plants,  and  fungi  collected. 

The  maps  are  (1)  of  the  Axim  portion  of  the  Gold  Coast,  scale  3  miles  to 
the  inch,  sho^viDg  authors'  routes,  with  insets  of  the  whole  coast  and  of  Africa 
on  smaller  scales ;  (2)  a  sketch  survey  of  the  Ancobra  by  Captain  Cameron, 
scale  about  If  miles  to  the  inch,  differing  considerably  both  in  direction  and 
detail  from  the  larger  scale  sketch  survey  map  of  Captain  Rumsey  referred  to  in 
the  January  numb«r  of  our  *  Proceedings,'  and  giving  many  more  names,  depths, 
and  local  references  than  that  map. 


112 


NEW    BOOKS. 


Gaffarel,  Paul. — L'Alg<5rie.  Ilbtoire,  Cooquctc,  et  Coloaiaation.  Paris  (Firiain- 
Bitiot) :  1883,  imp.  Svo.,  pp.  708,  map,  chrocQolithogra|ibs,  aud  woodcuts, 
( IVilliams  iSr  Norgate :  price  1/.  5«.) 

The  first  part,  referring  to  the  early  history  and  the  occupation  by  the 
French,  13  only  to  be  noticed  here  from  the  incidental  illustrations  of  topography. 
Part  2  is  exclusively  devoted  to  the  geography  of  Algeria,  pp.  36y-l30  contaiii- 
ing  the  physical,  pp.  431-548  the  economical,  pp.  549-639  the  jwliticttl,  and 
pp.  64O-tJ80  the  descriptive  asixxits,  A  good  bibliographical  Index,  classified 
according  to  the  dtvi.sions  of  the  work,  occupies  pp.  6S7-7O0.  The  maps 
(culoureil)  are  on  the  scale  of  1  :  500,000,  and  are  divided  into  Weatera,  Central, 
aud  Eastern  Algeria;  and  the  woodcut-s  represent  frequently  objects  of  geo- 
graphical interest,  many  of  them  being  of  esi)ccial  value  as  being  taken  from 
photographs  and  engraved  with  great  care. 

AMERICA. 

fiove,  Giacomo.— Patftsonja,  Terra  del  Fuoco,  Mari  Australi.  Rapporto  del 
Tcucnte  GiaconK>  IJove,  Capo  della  Spedizione,  al  Comitato  Centrals  per  le  Esplo- 
razioni  Antartiche.  Parte  I.  Genova  (Tirxjgrafia  del  K.  latituto  Sordo-Muti): 
1883,  Svo.,  pp.  150»  maps,  illustrations. 

The  explorations  in  and  al^mt  Southern  Patagonia,  conducted  under  Lieu- 
tenant Bove  (with  the  scientific  aid  of  Professor  Lovisato,  Professor  Vinciguerra, 
Lieutenant  lioucagli,  and  Dr.  S()ega2Kini),  preliminary  to  the  projected  Italian 
Antarctic  Expedition,  have  been  from  time  to  tiniu  referred  to  in  our  *  Fro- 
ceedinifa,'  and  the  Genoa  Central  Committee  has  now  publiabed  the  first  instal- 
ment of  results,  l)eing  a  summary  of  the  incidents  of  travel,  routes,  &c. 

A  second  pirt,  stated  to  bealiso  now  ready,  contains  the  account  of  Lieutenant 
IJove's  excursion  to  the  *'  Malvine ''  (a  further  corruption  of  the  Spanish  *'  Mal- 
vinas,"  altering  the  French  term  "Lem  Malouines,"  adopted  by  Frezier  from  the 
visits  of  ships  Irom  St.  Malo  to  the  Eastern  Falkland  Isles),  and  also  the  results 
i»f  the  hydrographic  and  meteorologic  observaiions  of  the  entire  voyage;  and  a 
series  of  special  memoirs  on  the  scientific  collections  made  will  form  a  third 
and  concluding  parr,  to  be  accompanied  by  a  geological  njap. 

The  present  fasciculus  descriliea  the  journey  from  Santa  Cniz  to  Patagonia  and 
Strit^m  Island,  with  the  return  to  Puuta  Arenas,  und  subsequent  visit  to  Tierra 
del  Faego,  a  separate  chapter  being  devoted  to  the  latter  coantry  and  its  inha- 
Liiants.  Consi«krahle  attention  is  given  (especially  in  this  part)  tu  ethnological 
mattere,  to  which  the  ilhLstrationa  refer,  one  of  the  maps  also  showing  the  dis- 
tribution of  Fuegiau  races — the  Ouix  (roui^hly  pui  at  2000)  occupying  the  east 
and  Staten  Island,  the  Alacaluf  (3000)  itie  west,  ond  the  Jagan  (3LjibO)  the  south 
of  the  Archi|>clago,  A  short  vocabulary  of  Home  170  Ja^^an  Fnegian  words, 
with  Italian  equivalents,  concludes  the  j^-irt,  fuliowing  a  table  of  measurements 
of  thirty-thrte  individuals  of  hoth  sexes  and  various  ages,  the  tallest  of  whom 
was  under  5  feet  G  inches.  As  lK?aring  niton  the  vexed  question  of  Patagonkn 
stature.  Lieutenant  liove  makes  tlie  following  observations  (p.  17),  when  refer- 
ring to  the  safe  arrival  at  Santa  Cruz  of  a  druve  of  400  cattle  sent  overland  by  a 
very  long  aud  hitherto  unexi>lored  route  from  the  Chupat  colony  through  the 
energy  of  Captain  Jloyano  : — "  The  gaucho  Garcia  who  had  chnrge  of  the  drove 
to  Santa  Crux,  whtii  britiging  hack  to  the  camj)  some  oxen  that  had  strayed 
durin<;;  the  night,  came  n]»t.m  a  small  valley  whitened  with  bones.  Having 
descended  into  it,  he  mi^ht  have  long  remained  in  doubt  as  to  (he  exact  nature 
of  ihene  bunes,  if  si.m,e  human  skulls  among  them  had  not  imntediately  shown 
him  wh.1t  they  vvero.  The  sktdls  and  bony  relics  doubtless  bt'lon;^wi  to  a  race 
which  liMS  now  dis;rpi>eared,  as  Garcia  dnriui;  his  numerous  jourru-ys  in  I'alagoaia 
haul  never  mit  with  innple  having  such  colossal  bones."  Lieutenant  TJove  was 
prevented  from  obtaining  further  details  from  this  gaucho,  who  lived  at  a  long 
distAuce,  but  from  the  few  indications  obtaiutHi  from  his  actual  informant  (Signor 
tJbligado,  Sub-delegate  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Siatiun),  he  presumes  that  the  valley 
is  near  the  river  Deseado,  about  300  miles  from  its  mouth, and  not  far  fn>m 
Muatera'a   route.    Lieutenant  liove  expresses  his   astonislimcnt  that  auch  a 


I 
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US 


circamstance  should  have  escape*^  the  notice  of  so  acute  an  observer  as  Musters; 

hnl  it  would  seem  more  a  subject  for  wonder  that  a  dro^-Te  of  cjiitlo  from  the 

Chopat  colony  to  Santa  Ouz,  both  situate  on  the  east  coast,  should  be  driven 

to  ^  inland  aa  to  cut  the  Deseado  300  miles  from  itn  mouth. 

Many  botanical  and  zoological  observations  are  gcattered  througltout  this 

Pejort  (including  marine  animals  noticed  or  dredged  dnrin;?  the  vo)'nge  from 
[  31uritevide\»  to  Santa  Cruz) ;  and  the  general  description  of  Staten  Island  aud 
( iu  fiiuna  and  flora  will  be  found  of  especial  interest.    Various  Italian  names  are 

given  to  prominent  features  of  physical  geography  in  this  island.    The  general 

map  is  practically  a  repetition  of  the  Admiralty  chart. 

Ctrenu,  [Dr.]  J.— Voyages  darn?  I'Amcrique  du  Sud.  Paris  (Hachette)  :  1883, 
ito.,  pp.  xvi.  and  635  [no  ImlexJ,  map«,  facsimiles,  and  illnstratious.  {Dulau : 
tnoo2l.) 

This  profusely  illustrateil  account  of  tlie  travels  of  the  late  Dr.  Crovaux(the 
chief  features  of  which  have  l>eeii  reix>ru>d  frum  lime  to  tim«  iu  our  'Prtx^eed- 
iDgs,'  oommencing  in  the  vol.  for  ls79,  p.  131)  is  a  ref>ro«luctinu  of  the  articles 
and  nlates  which  have  appeared  in  the  Tour  da  Monde  of  the  same  publishers, 
of  which  the  first  pirt  is  coutainetl  in  vol.  xxxvii.  (p.  337),  and  the  last  in  voL 
xliv.  just  completed,  supplemeiitti!  by  a  biographical  account  of  the  traveller  by 
M.  E.  Le  Janne,  whd  accompanied  him  on  his  third  voyage, 

l*he  work  is  divided  into  four  parts,  of  which  tlw  first  describes  his  journeys 
^.iathe  interior  of  French  Guiana  in  1876  and  1877,  when  he  ascended  the 
llbnjoi  to  the  previously  unvisittKl  Tumuc-Humac  range,  which  ho  cpissed, 
bang  the  mouth  of  the  Amazons  by  itn  northern  tributary  the  Jary,  the 
le  of  which  he  first  correctly  defined,  discovering  grand  falls.  The  second 
t  includes  his  work  in  1878  aud  1879  on  the  Oyap<>k,  the  south-eastern 
cundarj'  of  French  Guiana,  tbe  Paru,  a  northern  aflluent  of  the  Lower  Amazons, 
[md  the  Iva  (or  Putumayo)aud  Japtrnl,  tributaries  of  the  Upper  Amazons.  The 
Ithird  contain*  bis  journc}'**  in  the  United  States  of  Colombia  and  A'enezuela  in 
J1880  Mild  1881,  when,  with  M.  Le  Janne,  he  ascended  the  Magdalena,  crossed 
Kibe  Andes  to  the  Guaviare  or  Guayabcro,  and  descended  that  river  and  the 
^Orinoco  ;  and  the  fourth  consists  of  notes  communicatctl  by  M,  Le  Jatme  on  the 
Ute  traveller's  excursion  in  1881  among  the  primitive  Guamunoa  of  the  Orinoco 
delta.  It  was  his  intention  in  his  last  voyage,  on  which  he  started  in  Novomiber 
BU  to  ascend  the  Paraguay  and  reach  the  Amazons  fRim  the  south  by  the 
ij»jo8,  but  he  met  his  death  in  the  end  of  A[)ril  last  at  the  hands  of  Tobas 
diaas  at  Teyo,  a  small  villago  on  the  Pilcomayo,  of  wliich  he  was  endeavouring 
» ruakc  a  preliminary  exploration. 
The  chief  geogmphical  results  of  this  succession  nf  brilliant  Joiu'ueys  are,  in 
juiditiou  to  the  correct  definition  of  the  Tumuc-Humac  range,  the  explora- 
^tion  of  the  previously  but  little  known  riveis  Maront,  Oyaptdt,  and  I^-a,  the 
hracticjilly  quite  unknown  Jary  and  Paru,  some  [J50  miles  of  the  coarse  of  the 
Japuri,  about  1275  miles  of  new  country  during  the  voyage  down  the  Guaviare 
branch  of  the  Orinoco  (with  which  even  the  natives  were  unacquainted),  the  deter- 
mination of  various  astronomical  positions  in  Salta  and  Jujuy,  Jlrc.  Having 
paid  special  attention  to  the  bot.iuical  resources  of  the  region  exjilored.  Dr. 
Crevaux  gives  many  valuable  notes  on  the  economic  plants  observed,  especially 
remarking  that  vast  forests  of  magnificent  trees  on  the  Maroni  and  Oyapok  are 
now  allowed  to  go  to  decay  unutilised.  His  observations  on  objects  of  ethno- 
logical value  have  also  in  one  instance  an  immediate  imi»ortancc,  as  he  proves 
the  existence  far  in  the  territories  of  Dutch  and  British  Guiana  of  sculptured 
Btofica  similar  to  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oya^wk,  claimed  by  the  Prazilians 
as  a  boundary  stone  and  supjK^sed  to  l)e  marked  with  the  arms  of  Charles  V. 

The  many  falls,  rai^ida,  and  other  hydrographic  features  of  the  rivers  explored 
are  detailed  and  illustrattil  profusely  (there  are  in  all  253  engravings,  many 
fall-imge).  The  maps  are  as  follows: — (1)  a  general  map  of  South  America  aa 
far  south  as  the  Amazons  mouth  (scale  1  :  17,000,000),  Khuwing  Dr.  Crcvaux'a 
ihre«  great  voyages ;  (-)  French  Guiana,  scale  1 : 4,000,000,  giving  further 
details  of  the  Maroni,  Jary,  A'c. ;  (3)  the  Japura  and  l^a,  scale  1 :  (),500,000 ; 
(4)  the  Magdalcna,  Guaviare  ("  Dc  Lcsseps"on  the  map),  and  Orinoco, 


114 


NEW  BOOKS. 


scale  1 : 7,500,000,  with  vnrious  reproducticms  of  route  and  other  sketches. 
TheBo  maps  are  apparently  takeu  from  im  atlaa  on  a  larger  scale  entitled 
"  Fleuves  de  r/Vm<5riqiie  du  Sud,"  pubiisheil  in  Paris  by  tho  French  Geographical 
Si)ciety  in  Dr.  Crevaux's  naviiw  nailer  date  of  18^2,  wJiich  cout^una  details  of 
such  parts  of  the  rivers  above  naraetl  as  were  first  exiilored  by  him,  as  follows : — 
The  Oya{x>k,  two  sheets,  scale  1 :  225,000 ;  the  lUiapir,  a  feeder  of  the  Jary,  one 
sheet,  scale  1  :  200,000;  the  Jary,  to  its  conHueace  with  the  Amazons,  two 
sheets,  scale  1  :  220,000 ;  the  Pani,  eight  sheets,  scale  1 :  125,000 ;  the  l^a,  ten 
sheets,  scale  1 :  200,000 ;  and  tho  Japura,  twelve  sheets,  scalo  1 :  225,000, 


I 


POLYNESIA. 

Gordon  Cmmming,  C,  F. — Fire  FountaUis ;  thcKhigdomof  Hawaii,  its  Volcanoes, 
luid  the  History  of  its  Mission?,  Edinburgh  &;  London  (Blackwood) :  1883, 
1!  vols.,  8vo.,  pp.  297  and  279,  uiajis,  illustratious.     Price  IL  5^ 

Contains  a  copy  of  a  map  by  Mr.  W,  T.  Brigham,  showing:  the  principal 
lava-flows  from  Manna  Loa  nj)  to  186*^,  and  a  short  account  of  the  chief  erup- 
tions of  tliat  viilcauo  between  1789  and  1B77,  chiefly  fmni  information  from  the 
Rev.  Titus  Coan. 

GENERAL. 
Whitney,  J,  D. — The  Clitnatic  Cbrtoges  of  later  Geological  Times:  a  Discussion 
based  on  Observations  mada  in  the  Cordilleras  of  North  America,     Cambridge 
[D.S.A.]  (University  Press,  John  Wilson  &  Son) :  1882,  4to.,  pp.  xiv.  and  394. 

Thi-H  interesting  work  is  a  separate  publication  of  No,  2,  vol.  vii.  of  (he 
Memoirs  of  the  Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology  at  Cambridge,  Massachusetl* 
(an  instituiiou  which  must  allow  an  excessively  wide  range  for  its  subject),  and 
ia  intended  to  be  taken  in  connection  with  the  autlior's  treatise  on  the  Auriferous 
Gravels  of  tho  Sierra  Nev.ada  of  Califoriiict,  part  of  which  has  already  been  pub- 
lished. In  the  collection  of  material  for  that  treatise,  Mr.  Whitney's  study  of 
glacial  pheuomena  led  him  to  form  certain  oonclusiona  on  matters  of  physical 
get^raphy,  tlie  chief  of  which  was  tliat,  followiug  a  period  of  excessive  precipi- 
tation required  to  bring  about  the  accumulation  of  the  gold  deposits,  there  has 
been  duriu;;  recent  theological  times  a  constant  diminution  in  the  quantity  of 
water  standing  and  flowing  on  the  surface  throughout  the  region  of  the  Sierra — 
a  condition  of  things  proved  also  to  exist  in  the  central  and  eastern  portion  of 
the  Cordilleras  by  the  Survey  of  tho  Fortieth  Farallel  and  other  recent  surveys. 
Between  these  two  periods  of  precipitation  and  desiccation,  another  one  of  ice- 
extcnaion  intervened  in  the  higher  portions  of  the  most  elevated  ridges  of  tho 
Cordilleras;  and  Mr.  Whitney  has  endeavoured  to  show  the  existence  of  a 
similar  succession  of  events  generally  throughout  tho  world,  with  the  ultimate 
object  of  proving  the  so-cidled  glacial  epoch  to  be  a  locml  phenomenon,  during 
the  occurrence  of  which  much  ilio  larger  pirt  of  the  laud -masses  of  the  globe 
remained  cliinatologically  entirely  unaffected,  llecurreut  periods  of  greater 
heat  and  cold  are  rejected,  aud  a  diminution  of  the  carth*s  mean  tem|>erature 
during  successive  geological  ages  is  accepted  as  the  conclusion  of  all  obtainablo 
evidenco, 

In  diitcussing  this  question,  Mr,  Whitney  has  brought  together  a  mass  of 
infonnation,  derived  from  the  United  States  Geological  and  Geographical  Surveys, 
the  works  of  ancient  and  mr>lern  travullers  and  scicutific  men,  aval  received 
geographical  authorilies.  After  some  general  considerations  as  to  geological 
results  produced  by  ice  (which  lie  thinks  are  considerably  overratetl),  and  the 
origin  of  lakes  and  ijords,  he  describes  the  former  glaciatiou  of  tho  Sierra  Nevada, 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  the  Cordillonw  in  general  (with  a  discussion  of  Valleys  and 
Caiious,  in  which  received  opinions  as  to  ** aqueous"  and  "glacial"  forms  are 
somewhat  mcdilled),  Passmg  to  the  question  of  desiccation,  the  evidences  of 
drying  up  of  tlie  lakes  on  the  western  side  of  the  North  American  Continent, 
and  of  the  diminution  of  water  supplj'  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  especially  in 
Asia,  are  passetl  in  review ;  and  the  author  enters  at  some  length  upon  tho 
general  [loint  whether  this  is  the  result  of  partial  or  entire  removal  of  forests  by 


I 


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KKW  MAPS.  115 

tbe  hand  of  man,  quoting  authorities  freely  which  are  opposed  to  his  own  con< 
Tictions  that  desiccation  began  before  man  existed,  and  that  an  increase  or 
relation  of  precipitation  is  beyond  human  power. 

Having  next  stated,  the  numerous  opinions  endorsing  the  idea  that  the  pheno- 
ment  of  desiccation  are  simply  a  phase  of  the  glacial  epoch,  from  which  the 
anther  entirely  dissents,  he  proceeds  to  examine  the  conditions  favouring  or  tending 
to  diminish  precipitation  upon  the  earth's  surface,  audthe  evidence  of  increase  of 
jxtent  of  land  surface  on  the  globe  during  geologic  ages,  passing  to  a  review 
jf  sigDB  of  former  changes  of  temperature  on  the  earth,  ana  of  theorira  of  the 
caoies  of  such  changes. 

The  present  distribution  of  snow  and  ice  throughout  the  world  is  noted  at 
lome  length,  with  recent  changes  in  glacier  regions,  and  a  discussion  of  the 
ocmditions  and  extent  of  past  glaciation,  in  the  concluding  portion  of  the  work 
devoted  to  a  controversion  of  tbe  so-called  "  glacial  epoch.  The  theory  of  a 
polar  ice-cap  is  abandoned,  as  also  is  the  idea  that  an  increase  of  cold  would 
briog  about  extensive  glaciation. 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  CoLBS,  Map  Curator  r.o.8.) 

WORLD. 
World.— Grand  Planisphere  Terrestre.    Larochette  et  Mayer.    2"«  ed.  revue  et 
oonigee.     Rothschild,  Paris.    4  sheets.    Price  10«.    {Dulau.) 

EUROPE. 

leCl,  Karte  der  Umgegend  von .  Scale  1 : 25,000  or  2*9  inches  to  1  geogra- 
phical mile.  Edniglich.  preuss.  Landesaurnahme  1880.  Heransgegeben  1882. 
Berlin.    4  sheets.    Price  6s.        {Dxilau.) 

VflS^reossen,  Neue  Karte  der  Provinz .     Scale  1:300,000  or  4'1  geogra- 

jdii^  miles  to  on  inch.    4  sheets.    Price  48.    (Dulau.) 

ORDNANCaa  SURVEY  MAPS. 

Publications  issued  from  1st  to  31st  October,  1882. 

]4]Udl — General  Map ; — 

Ibeland  :  Sheet  161  (hill-shaded).    Price  1«. 

l-inoh — County  Maps : — 

Eholakd  and  Wales  :  Berks,  sheets  26,  43  on  sheet  3,  Hants.  Price  2».  6d. 
each.  Cheshire,  sheets  19,  34,  36,  41.  Price  28.  dd.  each.  Sheet  80  (filled 
in  to  the  margins  with  parts  of  sheets  6,  6a,  9,  10,  Co.  Flint).  Price  2s.  64^. 
Sheet  30a  (filled  in  to  the  margins  with  parts  of  sheets  5,  6,  8,  9,  Go.  Flint). 
Price  2a.  Gd.  Sheet  38a  (filled  in  to  the  margins  with  parts  of  sheets  9, 10, 
13, 14,  Co.  Flint).    Price  2s.  6d,    Herts,  sheet  (24  and  16).    Price  2«. 

SS-inch — Parish  Maps : — 

Ekolaat)  :  Bedford :  Battlesden,  sheets  XXIV.— 16 ;  XXVIII.— 4  ;  XXIX. 
—1;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XXVIII.— 8;  XXIX.— 5;  48.  each.  Area  Book  la. 
Chalgrave,  sheets  XXIX— 9, 10 ;  38.  each.  XXIX.— 1,  6,  7  ;  3a.  6d.  each. 
XXVIII.— 8  ;  XXIX.— 2,  5 ;  48.  each.  Area  Book  la.  Sundon,  sheets 
XXIX.— 8, 12;  28.  6d.  each.  XXIX.— 3,  4,  11;  3a.  each.  XXIX.— 7; 
3a.  6d.  each.  Area  Book  la.  Qlouoester :  Marshfield,  sheets  LXXIII.— 
— «;  LXXIV.— 5,9;  LXXVII.— 7,  12;  LXXVIII.— 9 ;  28.  Gd.  each. 
LXXIII.— 15;  LXXIV.— 13;  LXXVII.— 4,  8;  LXXVIIL— 5;  3a.  each. 
LXXIIL— 11,  12 ;  LXXVII.— 3;  LXXVIII.— 1 ;  Sa.  Gd,  each.  LXXIIL 
—16 ;  4a.  Gd.  Area  Book  la.  Gd.  Monmouth :  Wilcrick,  sheets  XXIX.— 
16;  B$.Gd.  XXXIV.— 4;  4s.  Gd.  Area  Book  la.  Shropshire:  Fitz,  sheets 


116  NEW  MA1»S. 

XXVlIT.-fJ,  13  ;  Sa.  M,  each.  XXVII.— 12,  IG  ;  XXXIV.— 1 ;  XXVIII. 
—5 ;  4.«.  each-  Area  IJc»f.k  1«.  Ford,  sheets  XXXI 11— 7,  8,  11,  12 ;  3«.  (yd. 
each.  XXXUI, — 15;  4s.  Area  Book  1».  Holy  Cross  and  St.  Giles,  sheets 
XXXlV,-^8.  12 ;  3«.  6d  each.  XXXIV.^15;  4*.  XXXIV.— 7;  Gn.  fy/. 
XXXI v.— 11  ;  8s.  Awa  B<wk  Is.  Kinnersley,  slieeta  XXX.— 9, 10 ;  3*.  «W. 
each.  XXX. — 13, 14  ;  XXXVI. — 2;  4«.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Luugdon-upon- 
Tern,  sheets  XXIX.— IG  ;  3s.  6^;,  XXXV,— 3,4,8;  4«.  each.  Area  Book  1«. 
Montford,  sheets  XXVJL— 1 1,  15 ;  XXXIII.— 7, 8 ;  3a.  6rf. each.  XXVII.— 
12,  IG;  XXXIII.— 3,  4;  is.  each.  Area  Buok  Is.  Prestou-on-tbe-Weald 
Moors,  sheets  XXX.^15  ;  3».  6d.  XXX.— 14;  XXX YL— 2,  3,  6;  4«.each. 
XXXV1.~7;  5*.  Area  R>ok  1*.  St.  AlkmoDtl,  sheets  XXVIII.-^H,  16; 
XXXtll.— 8,  12;  XXXIV.— 2.  3.  4;  3.^.  Gd.  each.  XXVIIL— 12,  15; 
XXXIlI,-4:  4«.  each.  XXXIV.— G;  is.  6d.  XXXIV.— 7 ;  Gs.  6d. 
XXXIV.— 10,  11;  8«,  each.     Area  B<x.k  Is.    St.  Chaii,  sheets  XXVHI.— 

9,  13,  14;  XXX11L=»B,  12,  Ifi;  XXXIV.— 2,  9,  12,  13,  16;  XLI.— 3,  5  ; 
3*.  ad.  each.  XXVII— 16;  XXXUI.— 4;  XXXIV.— 1,  5,  15;  XLI.— 
1,7;  4ff.  each.  XXXIV.— C  ;  4«.  G'i.  XXXIV.— 10,  11 ;  8s.  each.  Arta 
Book  2s.  Sheriff  Hales,  sheets  XXXVIl.— G;  2s.  Grf.  XXXVII.— 2;  3.*. 
XXXI.— 13;  XXXVIL— 1,  5,  9,  10;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXXVI.— 8,  12; 
4i».  each.  Area  Book  la.  Shrawardine,  sheets  XXVU.— 13,  14,  15 ; 
XXXIII.— 1,  2,  6,  7;  3».  Gd..  each.  XXXIII.— 3;  ,4«.  Atca  l^k  Is. 
Sutton,  sheets  XLI.— 3  ;  3s.  6<f.  XXXIV.— 14,  15  ;  4«.  each.  Area  Book 
Is.  Woodcole,  sheets  XXXVll— 3  ;  2s.  fid,  XXXI.— 10,  15  ;  XXXVII. 
—2;  3«.  each.  XXXL— 13,  14;  XXXVII.— 1;  3s.  Cci.  each.  Area 
Bc»ok  Is, 

Town  Plans— scale  1 :  600  :— 

Ekolano  :  Nottingham,  sheets  XXXVII.  4—9,  10,  14,  15,  18,  19,  20,  22,  23, 
24,25;  XXXVII.  8.-2,  4,  5,  7,  8,  9,  13.  14,  15,  18,  19,  20,  24,  25; 
XXXVII.  12.— 4,  19,  20,  25;  XXXVII.  16.—4,  5,  10,  15,  19,  20,  24,  25  ; 
XXXVII  1. 1.— 11,  12,  13,  16,  17,  21,  22  ;  XXXVIII.  5.— 1,  '-i,  3,  6,  7,  11, 
12,  13,  IG,  18,  21,  22,  23.  24;  XXXVIII.  6.— -'!►  2ii;  XXXVI Jl.  9.-1,  2, 
3,  4,  5,  R,  9,  13,  IG,  18,  20 ;  XXXVIII.  10.— 1,  «,  7,  8,  9,  12,  14,  IG,  17,  IB, 
19,  21,24,  25;  XXXVIII.  13.— 1,  2,   3,  4,  5,  f>,  7,  8,  9,  11,  12,  13,  15, 

10,  17,    IS.  19,  20,  21,  22,  23,  24.  25  ;  XXXVIII.  M-l,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7, 

8,  9,  10,  11,  12,  13,  14,  15,  IG,  17,  IS,  19,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25  ;  XXXVIII. 
16.— 1,  <5,  11,  IG,  21,  22,  23;  XLI.  8.-9,  10,  14,  15,  18,  19.  20, 
23,  24,  25  ;  XLI.  12.— 3,  4,  5,  10  ;  XLII.  1.— 1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  fi,  7,  8,  9, 10,  11, 
12,  13, 14,  15,  ir>,  17,  18,  19,  21,  22,  23,  24  ;   XLII.  2.-1,  2,  3,  4,  5. 6,  7,  8, 

9,  12,  15,  IG,  17,  18,  1!),  20,  21,  23,  25  ;   XLII.  3.— 1.  2,  3,  G,  7,  8, 11,  12, 

16,  17,  21,  22;  XL  11.  6.— 1,  2,  3,  4,.'),  6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11,  12, 13, 14,  15,  16, 

17,  18,  19,  20,  21,  23,  24,  25  ;  XLII.  6.— 1»  2,  4,  5,  G,  7,  8,  9,  10,  11, 12,  13, 
14,  15,  IG,  17,  18,  19,  20,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25;   XLII.   7.— 1,  2,  G,  7, 11,  12, 

10,  17 ;  XLII.  9,-1,2,  3,  4,  5,  G,  7,  P,  9,  10,  11,  12,  13.  14, 15,  IB,  17,  18, 
19,  20,  22,  23,  24,  25 ;  XLII.  IQ.— 1,  2, 3,  4,  G,  8, 11 ;  XLIL 13.— 2,  3, 4, 8, 
2«.  each- 
Index  Map.— i"  dex  in  the  County  of  Derhy,  G-inch  scale,  showing  Quarter  Sheets 

to  be  pliotosiinco^raphed.     Scale  ot  Index  4  miles  to  1  inch. 

ASUL. 

China,  Karte  cines  Theiles  ties  Stid-Westlichen^ .    HauptsHchlich  nach  ncuerea 

ForschuogcD  in  SsQ-Chuen  und  Yiin-Nan.  Entworfen  u.  gezeiclmet  v.  B.  Hasseo- 
ateiD.  locale  1 : 2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  an  iuch.  Pelermann's 
Geographischo  Miltheiluugen,'  Jahigang  1883,  Tufel  1.  Justus  Perthes, 
Goth  a.    (Dulau.) 

Indian  Government  Surreys  :— 

Boiiibriy  Presidency;  Trigoaometrical  Brancli,  Survey  of  India.  Guzerat. 
Scale  2  inches  to  1  stat.  mile.  Sheet  33.  Section  3  (Seasons  1879-80,  and  1880- 
81).     Pari  of  the  Waudvi  Tiluka  of  the  Surat  Col  Ice  torn  te.  Slieet  34,  Secliom  1 


HEW  MAPS.  117 

(Seuon  1880-81).  Farts  of  the  BdrdoU  and  Mdndvi  Talukds  of  the  Surat  Collec- 
torate. — Trigonometrieal  Branch,  Survey  of  India.  Section  No.  5  of  Sheet  No. 
49  of  Guzerat  (Ddng  Forests).  Sale  4  inches  to  1  stat  mile.  Parts  of  the  Dang 
Derbbavti,  and  Ding  G&rvi,  States.  Season  1880-81.  Section  No.  8  of  Sheet  No. 
49  of  Guzerat  (Ddng  Forests).   Parts  of  the  D<log  Kirli,  Ddng  Derbhavti,  Dang 

.   Sbirbara,  Ding  Gdrvi,  and  the  Ddng  Paldsvihir  States  (Season  1880-81).— Trigo- 
nometrical Branch,  Survey  of  India.  Sheet  No.  77  of  Guzerat.  Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat. 
mile.    Parts  of  the  Ahmedabad  CoUectorate  t>f  the  Gdikwar's  Territory  and  of  the 
Hahi  Eantha   and  E&dbanpur  States,  and  of  Edihidwdr.    Season  1880-81.— 
Bengal  Presidency  :  Lower  Provinces  Bevenve  Survey.    Index  to  the  Sheets  of 
District  NoakhoUy. — Map  of  the  District  of  Hoshiarpur,  Surveyed  by  Lieutenants 
W.  C.  Butchinson  and  T.  C.  Blagrave,  Bevenue  Surveyors,  in  1847-48  and  49. 
(Third  Edition.)    Scale  2  stat.  miles  to  an  inch.    4  sheets. — District  Sibsagar, 
Issam.  Scale  4  stat.  miles  to  an  inch.  Seosons  1862-75. — ^District  Sylhet,  Assam, 
1860-66.     Preliminary  Map.     Scale  4  stat.  miles  to  an  inch. — North-West 
Provinces  Survey.     Sheet  Na  1.     Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat.  mile.     District 
Saharanpur.    Seasons  1879-80-81.    Sheet  No;  2.    Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat.  mile. 
District  Saharanpur.    Seasons  1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  5.    Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat. 
mile.    Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meenit.    Seasons  1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  6. 
Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat.  mile.    Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut    Seasons 
1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  18.    Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat.  mile.     District  Meerut. 
Seasons   1879-80-81.      Sheet  28.     Scale  1  inch  to  1   stat.  mile.      Districts 
Saharanpur  and  Muzaffamagar.    Seasons  1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  28  (N.W.). 
Scale  2  inches  to  1  stat.  mile.    Districts  Saharanpur  and  Muzafifarnagar.    Seasons 
1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  28  (S.W.).    Scale  2  inches  to  1  stat.  mile.    District 
Muzaffamagar.     Seasons  1878-79-80.    Sheet  No.  29.     Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat  mile. 
Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut.     Seasons  1878-79-80. — Madras  Presidency : 
Mytore  Topogi-aphical  Suivey.    Scale  1  inch  to  1  stat.  mile.    Sheet  No.  21. 
Parts  of  Eadur  and  Shimoga  Districts.    Seasons  1878  to  81.    Sheet  No.  49. 
Parts  of   Hassan    and    Eadur    Districts.      Seasons    1879-81. — Trans-Frontier 
Surveys :  Northem  "Waziristan  and  Dawar  Valley.    Scale  1  inch  to  2  stat  miles. 
Surveyed  during  the  expeditions  of  1860  and  1881  by  Officers  of  the  Indian 
Survey  Department.    Southern  Waziristan.    Scale  1  inch  to  2  stat.  miles.    Sur- 
veyed during  the  expeditions  of  1660  and  1881  by  Officers  of  the  Indian  Survey 
Department. 

AFBICA. 

Caire,  Carte  des  environs  du  ,  dress^  dapr^s  les  cartes  de   TexpAiition 

frao9ai8e  et  de  Mahmoud-Pacha.    H.  Vaujany.    Erhard,  Paris,  1882.    {Dulau.) 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty.— Charts  published  by  the  Hydrographio  Department,  Admiralty,  in 
September,  October,  November,  and  December,  1882. 

No.  Incbm. 

2661  a,  ft.  m       =     0*05    China  sea,  northern  portion.   2  sheets.   Price  2».  6rf.  each. 
2576        m       =0*10    Sulu  sea:  Snlu  archipelago  and  the  north-east  coast  of 

Borneo.  Price  2«.  (id. 
597  d  =1*15  Africa,  cast  coast: — Delagoa  bay  to  cape  Guardafui, 
including  Mozambique  channel  and  Madagascar  island, 
with  the  off-lying  islands  and  reefsi.  Price  38. 
437  m  =0*8  Australia,  Torres  strait: — Albany  pass  to  Booby  island, 
including  Endeavour  strait,  Norroanby  sound.  Prince 
of  Wales  and  Dayman  channels.     Price  2».  Qd, 


892 

d 

=     1-9 

143 

m 

=    0*19 

604 

m 

=    0-07 

118  NEW  MAPS. 

No.  Inches. 

347        m      =     0*25    Australia,  east  coast : — Percy  isles  to  Whitsanday  island 
(plans,  Approaches  to  Pioneer  river.    Beverley  islands 
anchorage).    Price  2«.  6d. 
1187        m      =     0*11    Spain,  south  coast : — Alicante  to  Palamos.    (Plans,  Calpe 
anchorages.     Morayra  bay.     Javea  bay.     Vinaroz. 
Peniscola  road.    Port  Iviza.    Port  Cabrera.     Pahna 
harbour.)    Price  2«.  6c?. 
West  Indies : — Gulf  of  Mexico.    Price  2/».  6<Z. 
Ked  sea : — Jebel  ToTr  to  Perim  island.    Price  3s. 
Africa,  west  coast: — Capo  Lopez  bay  to  St.  Paul  do 
Loanda.   (Plans,  Mayumba ;  Malemba ;  Loango ;  Black 
]x)int ;  Eabenda,  bays.    Vesuvius  shoal.    St.  Paul  de 
Loanda  harbour.)    Price  2».  6rf. 
1318        m      =1*8      South   America,   west   coast: — ^Port  of  Yaldivia   and 
approaches,  with  port  Corral.    Price  1«.  6d. 
./.^      /m      =     1*0\    West  Indies: — Grand  and  Lesser  Caymans.  (Plan,  George 
*'**'       \m       =     3-0/        Town  anchorage.)    Price  2a. 
1446        m       =10*0      Scotland,  east  coast: — ^Aberdeen  harbour.    Price  1».  6d. 

596  m      =     8*0      Bio  de  la  Plata :—Flores  island.    Price  1». 
1955       m      =     3*0      Red  sea  :—Mokha  road.    Price  Is.  6rf. 

587  d  =  1*9  Central  America,  west  coast : — Burica  point  to  Mangrove 
bluff.  ^Plans,  Salina  Cruz  and  Ventoza  bays.  San 
Jos^.  Morro  Ayiica.  Champerico.  Acajutla  or  Sonso- 
nate  road.    Salinas  bay.)    Price  2s.  Gd. 

2470  m      =    3*6      North  America,  east  coast : — Connecticut  river.    Price  Is. 
991    Plan  added,  Hamanaka  bay. 

550    Plan  added,  Sao  Francisco  harbour. 
993    Plans  added,  Urakawa  bay.    Mori  roads. 
87    Plan  added,  Cezimbra  bay. 
(J,  D,  Potter,  agent) 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

No.  Concelled  by  No. 

2661  a,  6.  China  sea,  northern  portion,  \  New  charts,  China  sea,  northern 

2  sheets        ..      ..      «      ..      ..  /      portion,  2  sheets      ..      ..     2661  a,  &. 

597  Cape  Correntes  to  Juba  islands    ..  \  New  chart,  Delagoa  bay  to  cape 

598  Juba  islands  to  Mascat /      Guardafui 597 

347  Po«y  blestoWhitaunday  idand..  {  ''Z^^S.^V'"^..  "^T"":.  847 

596  Hollams  island  to  cape  Correntes. 

1187  Alicante  to  Palamos     New  chart,  Alicante  to  Palamos  1187 

392  Gulf  of  Mexico      New  chart.  Gulf  of  Mexico        ..  392 

604  Banda  point  to  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  \  New  chart,  C.  Lopez  bay  to  St. 

626  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  harbour        ..  ■'       Paul  de  Loanda       604 

1318  Port  Valdivia        New  plan,  Port  of  Valdi via        ..  1318 

359  Harbours  in  Japan        New  chart,  Nagasaki  to  Karatsu  369 

462  Grand  Cayman  island  ..    '..      ..  |  ^'^y^,'' .  °"°*   »""*  ^      ^gg 

1446  Aberdeen  harbour New  plan,  Aberdeen  harbour    ..     1446 

1955  Mocha  road New  plan,  Mokha  road       .,      ..     1955 

587  Coiba  island  to  Mangrove  bluff  ..  /  ^®^  °^^  Burica  point  to  Man- 

\      grove  bluff       587 

2471  Plan  of  Connecticut  river     ..      ..      New  plan,  Connecticut  river      ..     2470 
595  Anno  Bom  to  Hollams  island. 


NEW  MAPS.  119 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  721.  South  Indian  ocean : — Seychelle  Qronp.  2045.  England,  south  coast : — 

Oiren  to  Christchurch.    2154.  England,  soath  coast : — ^Newhaven.    1756.  Spain, 

vwt  coast :— Cape  Finisterre  to  Vigo  bay.    2062.  China :— Tong-Eing  gulf.    2366. 

BilUc  sea :— Arkona  to  Stettin  bay.    1258.    China : — Approaches  to  S^oul.    2866. 

United  States :— Winyah  bay  and  G^rgetown  harbour.    967.  Eastern  archipelago : — 

lyawan  i;)land.    948.  Eastern  archipelago : — Balabac  strait,  and  channels  between 

Borneo  and  PaUwan.    1755.  Spain,  west  coast : — Ferrol  harbour  to  cape  Finisterre. 

1769.  China : — Chinchu  harbour.    744.  India,  west  coast : — Cape  Hamas  to  Alva- 

gaddft.    1833.  England,  east  coast :^Med way  river,  sheet  1.    2112.   Borneo: — 

Amtong  bay  to  Sampanmangy  point.    764.  South  Pacific  ocean:— New  Hanover, 

lew  Ireland,  and  New  Britain.    2691.  South  Pacific  ocean  :•— Fiji  islands.    1249. 

fiji  islands : — Ovalau  and  Moturiki  islands.    2776a.  Africa,  west  coast : — ^Kwara 

rirer.     2185.    New  Zealand:  —  Nelson  anchorage.      9416.    Eastern  archipelago, 

vntem  portion.    1033.  Australia,  west  coast : — Champion  bay  to  cape  Natnraliste. 

1277.  South  America,  west  coast: — Gkande  point  to  San  Francisco  point.    2160. 

fiMtero  archipelago : — Oirimata  strait.    2660&.  China  sea,  southern  portion.    2600. 

Wot  Indies:— San  Domingo  to  Dominica.    185.  Baltic  sea: — Port  Swinemunde 

ad  approaches  to  Stettin.    279.    Newfoundland : — Cape  Rouge  and  Croc  harbours. 

1848.   Spain,  south  coast : — Port  of  Malaga.    627.  Africa,  west  coast : — St.  Paul  de 

loanda  to  Great  Fish  bay.     1929.  Central  America,  west  coast : — ^Bahia  Honda. 

1193.  Central  America,  east  coast: — Port  Chagre,  Colon  bay,  &c.     771.  Oosima 

^p :— Hancock  bay.    623.  Africa,  west  coast : — ^Fernando  Po  island.    653.  Africa, 

«st  coast :— Ports  Conducia,  Mozambique,  &c.    109.  England,  east  coast : — Humber 

Bver  entrance.    2889.   Gulf  of  Mexico  :—Atchafalaya  bay.    28426.    Baltic   sea. 

€2.  Japan : — Yezo  island.    1234.  Africa,  west  coast : — ^Port  NoUoth  or  Bobbe  bay. 

S66.  Baltic  sea :— Arkona  to  Stettin  bay.    761.  West  Indies,  sheet  1.    762.  West 

hdies,  sheet  2.    7G3.  West  Indies,  sheet  3.   2441.  Japan  :—Tsugar  strait.    2759a,  6. 

Australia,  2  sheets.    2365.  Baltic  sea:— Rostock  to  Arkona  light.    20606.  North 

ititntic,  western  portion.    2405.  Japan : — Kuril  islands  from  Nipon  to  Kamdiatka. 

J441.  Japan: — Tsugar  strait     2591.  New  Zealand: — Waiau  river  to  cape  Foul- 

fbd.    2616.  New  Zealand :— Cape  Foulwind  to  DTTrville  island.    1256.  China : — 

FeKibili  and  Lian-tung  gulfs.    40.    India,  west  coast: — Karachi  harbour.    2296. 

BBltic  sea: — South  Quarken  to  Homsland.    2845.  Channel  islands: — Aldemey 

krbour.     1357.    Africa,  west  coast :  —  Cape  Formoso    to  Fernando  Po   island. 

1098.  Gulf  of  Mexico : — Lower  Matacumhe  cay  to  Boca  Grande.    2G9.   North 

America,  east  coast : — Sapelo  sound  to  Florida.    1101.  Pacific  ocean : — Mariana  or 

Ladrone  islands.    469.  Spain,  south  coast : — Alicante  port.    751.  India,  west  coast : — 

Ajeago  to  capo  Comorin.     26756.  English  channel.    2471.  North  America,  east 

coast :— New  London  harbour.    2432.  Korea : — Tumen  Ulu  to  Strelok  bay.    214. 

hdfic  ocean : — Solomon  islands.    1982c.  South  America,  east  coast : — Parana  river, 

2894.    China :— Liau  river  entrance  to  Tien-Chwang  Tai.    821.  Bay  of  Bengal : — 

Bephant  point  to  Cheduba  strait.    822.  Bay  of  Bengal : — Cheduba  strait  to  Coronge 

idand.    2614.    New  Zealand: — Kaipara  harbour.      1959.  China:— Hu-i-tau  and 

Cbimmo  b&ys.    1824a.   Ireland,  east  coast.    1787.    Ireland,  east  coast: — Wex- 

kd  to  Wicklow.    2049.   Ireland,  east  coast  :—Brattin  head  to  Wexford.    2738. 

hdia,  west  coast : — Cochin  to  cape  Comorin.    (iT".  D.  rotter^  agent.) 

UNITED  STATES  CHARTS. 

No.  348.  Port  Royal  and  Kingston  Harbours,  Jamaica.    Price  la.  8^/.    No.  622. 
West  Coast  of  Mexico  from  Mazatlan  to  Tenacatita  Bay.    Price  Is.  8(2.    No.  823 


120  NEW  MAPS. 

and  823  (o).  South  Pacific  Ocean.  Sheet  1  (in  2  parts).  Price  25.  Id.  each  j 
Published  1882,  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Washington,  D.C.  J.  C.  P.  de  Q 
Commo.  n.s.N.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 

ATLASES. 

Atlas  Manuel  de  Oeographie  Modeme,  contenant  cinquante-quatre  G 
imprim^  en  couleur.  Une  livraison  par  mois.  A  partir  d'Octobre  J 
1*  Livraison.    Paris,  Librairie  Hachette  &  O    Price  2».  3d,    (Dulau.) 

This  Atlas  is  an  abbreviated  French  edition  of  Andree*s  "  allgemeinfir  Hf 
Atlas."  As  at  present  arranged,  it  is  to  come  out  in  monthly  numbers,  aq 
is  to  be  hoped  that  it  will  appear  with  more  regularity  than  the  Yli 
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the  issue  of  the  first  number  in  1877. 

Documents  Qeographiques  conserv&i  k  la  Bibliothdqne  Nationale,  Ghoix  de— 
Notice  des  Provinces  de  I'Empire  et  Notice  des  Cit&  de  la  Gaule  (Vl«  Side 
Mappemonde  de  Saint-Sever  (XI*  Sidcle).  Carte  Pisane  (XIV*  Sidcle).  A 
Catalan  de  Charles  V,  Boi  de  France,  de  I'Ann^  1375.  Paris,  MaisonneaT 
C**'  Libraires-Editeurs,  1883.    Price  21, 10».    ( Wmiaim  &  NorgcUe.)      ' 

Oesterreich-ITngam,   Fhysikalisch-Statistischer   Hand- Atlas  von ,   in 

Earten  mit  erliiutemdem  Text,  unter  Mitwirkung  von  Yincenz  v.  Haaidt,  1 
Dr.  Anton  Kemer  Bitter  v.  Marilaun,  Franz  Bitter  v.  Le  Monnier,  General-M 
Carl  Sonklar  v.  Innstatten,  Prof.  Dr.  Franz  Toula,  herausgegeben  von 
Josef  Chavaune  nnd  ansgefiihrt  in  Eduard  Eulzel's  Geographischem  Lutit 
2.  Licferung.  Containing  the  following  maps : — Nr.  2.  W^rmevertheilung 
Janner  (mitUere  Janner-Temperatur).  Nr.  3.  Warmevertheilung  im  Juli  (mitt 
Juli-Tempcratur).  Nr,  17.  Heereswesen  und  physische  Tauglichkeit.  W 
Holzel,  1882.    Price  7».    {Dulau.) 

Voillanin,  A. — Atlas  de  I'Enrope  physique.  Edition  avec  trac^  des  lignea 
chemins  de  fer.  Bassins  des  grands  fleuves  de  France  et  de  TEurope,  d*aprdfl 
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PROCEEDINGS 


or  THl 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


On  the  VartouB  Means  of  Communication  between  Central  Persia  and 
the  Sea.    By  Golonel  J.  U.  Bateman  CHAMPAiy,  ]i.b. 

(Bead  at  the  ETening  Meeting,  January  15tb,  1883.) 
Xap,  p.  184. 

I  SUPPOSE  that  no  ooontry  in  the  world  of  similar  importance  is  so  poorly 
off  as  Persia  for  the  means  of  locomotion.  With  one  exception,  to  which 
I  intend  before  oondnding  to  direct  your  attention,  there  is  in  this 
extensive  empire  not  one  navigable  river  or  canal ;  and  as  regards  roads 
the  condition  of  Persia  is  bnt  little  removed  from  barbarism. 

Wheeled  vehicles  are  practically  unknown,  excepting  on  the  road 
from  Cazvin  to  Tehran  where  quite  lately  a  service  of  troikas  on  the 
Russian  system  has  been  organised  with  tolerable  success.  Caravan 
routes  are  but  tracks  worn  over  steep  and  stony  mountain  ridges  or 
over  gravelly  plains  by  the  feet  of  mules  and  camels  for  century  after 
century.  Bridges  are  rare,  and  where  most  wanted  are  too  often 
represented  by  the  ruined  piers'  and  abutments  of  some  clumsy  massive 
oonstmction  of  a  bygone  age. 

The  traveller,  mounted  according  to  his  rank  or  means  on  horse,  mule, 
donkey,  or  camel,  proceeds  at  the  rate  of  some  20  miles  a  day,  and  is 
fortunate  if  he  escapes  snowdrifts  in  winter,  mountain  torrents  in  the 
spring,  and  sunstrokes  in  the  summer.  During  the  hot  season,  however, 
marches  are  nearly  always  performed  in  the  cool  hours  of  the  night. 
The  principal  routes  are  provided  with  caravanserais  at  distances  of 
some  10  to  20  miles  apart ;  and  on  the  main  post-roads  there  are  less 
substantial  but  not  unwelcome  places  of  shelter  known  as  chuppar 
khaneki  or  post-houses.  In  these,  travellers  of  the  better  class  find  rooms 
in  which  to  rest.  No  f&miture  is  supplied,  save  perhaps  an  old  and 
villanously  dirty  carpet  or  rug  which  should  be  avoided  by  all  but  those 
who  enjoy  the  excitement  of  hunting  that  species  of  game  familiar  to 
the  readers  of  Mark  Twain  as  the  "  chamois." 

Very  little  indeed  is  done  by  the  government  of  the  country  to  improve 
the  communications.    During  the  past  20  years  the  Shah  has,  it  is  true, 

Ko.  IIL--MABCH  1883.]  k 


122 


ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


spout  considerable  sums  on  the  routes  between  tlio  capital  (Tcbran) 
and  tlie  Caspian ;  but  elsewhere  the  caravtmserais,  causeways,  and 
bridges  have  been  made  generally  speaking  by  private  individuals,  and 
when  once  made  they  are  oxpeofced  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

Persia  is  aomewbat  more  than  600,000  square  miles  in  extent.  It  may 
be  roughly  described  as  a  plateau  averaging  from  3000  to  5000  feet 
elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  A  groat  proportion  is  salt  desert ; 
the  rest  consists  of  more  or  less  fertile  valleys  lying  between  rugged, 
barren  ranges  of  mountains.  The  productiveness  of  some  of  the  more 
favoured  localities  is  in  truth  amazing.  Wherever  the  soil  is  good,  and 
wherever  water  from  the  melting  snows  on  the  heigbtB  above  can  b© 
•atiliacd,  the  glorious  Eiistcrn  sun  can  be  depended  upon  to  ripen  the 
crops.  Depressions,  disturbances,  and  the  numerous  disagreeable  meteoro-- 
logical  phenomena  daily  noted  in  our  newspapei^s  for  the  instruction  of 
those  who  wish  to  study  the  probabilities  of  our  climate,  are  unknown  ; 
and  summer  in  Persia  is  summer  indeed. 

Were  water  more  abundant  the  capabilities  of  many  parts  of  the 
countrj'  would  be  prodigious,  and  the  population  would  be  infinitely 
larger  than  it  is.  I  l)elieve  there  are  not  more  than  six  millions  of  souls 
in  Persia,  including  the  Iliyat«  or  wandering  tribes,  but  there  are  no 
trustworthy  means  of  estimating  the  number  of  the  inhabitants.  Still 
tlic  trade  of  the  country  is  considerable,  and  might  be  vastly  increased 
were  measures  taken  to  open  up  roads  whore  there  are  none,  and  to 
improve  the  rudo  apologies  for  roads  which  exist. 

Persia  produces  grain  of  all  kinds,  cotton,  ttibacco,  silk,  opium,  fruits, 
dates^  wool,  hides,  carpets,  rugs,  and  in  fact  an  immense  variety  of  tho 
necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life.  There  is,  on  the  other  hand,  a  large 
demand  for  cloth,  cotton  fabrics,  sugar,,  tea,  coffee,  and  all  the  innu- 
merable comforts  called  for  by  a  moderately  civilijsed  community.  It  is 
difficult  to  name  an  article  which  cannot  he  obtained  in  tho  bazaars  of 
Tehran,  Tabriz,  Ispahan,  and  Shii-az  j  and  it  is  a  fact  which  un- 
pleasantly strikes  the  English  traveller,  that  a  verj^  much  greater  pro- 
portion of  these  articles  is  imported  from  Russian  than  from  British 
BOurccB.  Twenty  years  ago  it  was  otherwise  ;  but  of  late  great  changes 
have  taki'U  place  in  the  nieigbbourhood  of  Kortlieni  Persia,  all  tending  to 
im[)rove  tlie  conditions  under  which  the  Russian  competes  with  the 
British  merchant.  Many  hundred  steam  vessels  now  ply  on  tho  Volga. 
A  regular  service  is  kept  up  during  the  season  between  the  mouth 
of  that  river  and  the  Persian  ports  of  the  Caspian  ;  which  ports  ai-e, 
as  I  remarked  above,  tho  only  places  which  the  Shah  has  cared  to 
connect  with  the  capital  by  fairly  good  roads.  A  railway  now  inins 
between  Poti  on  the  Black  Sea  and  Tiflis,  the  capital  of  the  Caucasus, 
and  has  just  been  completed  to  Baku,  while  it  is  merely  a  question 
of  time  when  the  railway  system  of  tho  Caucasus  will  be  extended 
to  the  Persian  frontier  on  the  Arax,  less  than  100  miles  from  Tabriis* 


I 
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BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSIA  AND  THE  SEA.  123 

I  may  add  that,  owing  to  the  favourable  natural  features  of  the  country, 
the  road  onwards  from  Tabriz  to  Tehran  is  the  easiest  400  miles  to 
traverse  in  all  Persia. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  shortest  and  most  generally  followed  road 
from  Bushire  to  the  interior  is  peculiarly  difficult.     No  less  than  six 
severe  passes  have  to  be  surmounted  between  the  sea  and  Shiraz,  a 
distance  of  180  miles,  and  at  two  spots  the  track  rises  to  an  altitude 
of  nearly  7000  feet.     From  Bushire  by  Shiraz  to  the  capital  (where 
there  is  of  course  the  greatest  demand  for  European  products  and  manu- 
factures) the  distance  is  between  700  and  800  miles,  so  that  it  is  natural 
that  under  any  circumstances  the  trade  from  the  southern  ports  would 
be  eclipsed  in  the  north  by  that  from  the  Caspian  and  Caucasian  pro- 
vinces of  Bussia.    But  in  consequence  of  the  special,  and  what  I  may 
term  artificial,  advantages  of  the  northern  routes,  it  is  but  too  evident 
that  Bussian  manufactures  are  steadily  superseding  British  wares  at 
Ispahan  and  even  in  the  Persian  markets  south  of  that  centre. 

Kow  it  seems  to  me  a  matter  of  some  interest  and  importance  to 
coBsidtt  what  steps  might  be  taken  to  smooth  away  the  obstacles  which 
impede  the  free  movement  of  trade  in  the  south  of  Persia,  and  to  open 
np  new  markets. 

Bushire  is  beyond  comparison  the  largest  and  wealthiest  port  of  the 
Penian  Gulf,  and  at  this  place  some  of  the  members  of  an  influential 
English  firm  (I  speak  of  Messrs.  Gray,  Paul  &  Co.)  habitually  reside. 
The  firm  has  native  agents  in  the  interior.  There  are  very  few  Europeans 
in  Penda  engaged  in  trade.  1  think  I  am  right  in  saying  that  except  at 
Bnshiie' there  is  not  a  single  English  mercantile  man  in  the  country. 
At  Bushire  also  are  the  headquarters  of  the  British  Besidency  in  the 
Golf,  and  from  Bushire  to  Shiraz  and  the  north  lies  the  principal  trade 
route  connecting  the  Gulf  with  Central  Persia.  But  Bushire  has  no 
harbour  worth  mentioning,  and  ships  of  any  size  are  compelled  to 
anchor  in  the  roads  three  or  four  miles  from  land.  The  road  to  Shiraz 
has  been  described  over  and  over  again,  and  I  need  not  waste  time  by 
ttjing  more  than  that  it  is  execrably  bad. 

Two  years  ago  I  was  travelling  from  Shiraz  to  the  sea,  and  it 

happened  that  the  fall  of  rain  (and  snow  on  the  higher  levels)  was 

amunally  heavy.    The  roadway  or  rather  staircase  through  one  of  the 

most  troublesome  passes  was  entirely  swept  away  by  the  torrent,  and  I 

found  myself  absolutely  cut  off  from  the  haven  where  I  would  be.    In 

the  end  my  companion  and  I  were  forced  to  abandon  our  horses,  and 

with  the  help  of  some  hardy  mountaineers  who  shouldered  our  luggage, 

we  had  to  clamber  literally  on  hands  and  knees  down  precipices  of  many 

hundred   feet,  and  finally,  after  several  days'  trudge^  succeeded  in 

borrowing  horses  and  riding  through  25  or  30  miles  of  water  to  the 

ooaat    To  improve  this  route  in  any  marked  degree  woidd  involve  an 

expenditure  so  large  as  to  be,  for  the  present  at  least,  out  of  the  question. 

K  2 


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ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


Following  ike  coast  eastward  we  find  one  or  two  comparatively 
insignificant  towns  aiioh  as  Charak,  Lingab,  &c,  6nt  they  are  cut  off 
from  the  interior  by  almost  impenetrable  mountain  ranges,  and  the 
country  at  their  rear  is  unexplored.  It  may  he  aiBsumed,  I  think,  with 
oortaLnty  that  no  practicable  trade  route  to  the  interior  exists  between 
Bushire  and  Bunder  Abbas.  This  last  town  is^  as  is  well  known,  the 
port  of  Kirman,  and  was  formerly  a  place  of  very  much  greater  commer- 
cial importance  than  at  present.  In  the  matter  of  harbour  accommoda- 
tion it  offers  advantages,  but  the  town  and  neighbourhood  are  exception- 
ally unhealthy  and  hot,  so  that  the  wealthier  native  merchants  of  the 
place  desert  it,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  for  the  shady  groves 
of  Min^b,  50  miles  to  the  east.  For  Europeans  Bunder  Abbas  is  scarcely 
habitable.  The  roads  inland  to  Kirman  and  Yezd  are  not  so  well  known 
to  UB  as  those  from  Busbire  to  Shiraz,  but  they  have  been  during  the 
last  few  years  traversed  and  described  hy  Colonel  E.  M.  Smith,  R.K., 
Director  of  the  rersian  Telegraphs,  and  more  recently  by  Mr.  Ernest 
Floyer  (formerly  also  of  the  Indo*European  Telegraph)  whose  interesting 
work  entitled  *  Unexplored  Baluchistan,'  gives  an  admirable  description  of 
the  kind  of  track  dignified  by  the  name  of  road  in  these  countries.  That 
from  Bunder  Abbas  to  the  interior  is  exceedingly  arduous,  and  the  passes 
rise  in  some  cases  to  between  6000  and  9000  feet  above  the  sea.  They 
are  usually  blocked  by  snow  for  weeks,  even  montht^  every  year.  Mr. 
Floyor  states  that  a  loaded  caravan  will  reach  Eirman  in  twenty-four 
days,  and  Yezd  in  twenty-seven  days,  and  it  is  quite  evident  that  the 
Bunder  Abbas  route  to  the  interior  is  unable  to  compete  with  the 
Bushire  line  for  any  traffic  except  that  to  and  from  Kirman  and  Yezd. 

The  road  from  Baghdad  to  Tehran,  a  distance  of  about  600  miles,  is 
far  easier  than  either  of  the  two  I  have  mentioned.  A  considerable 
portion  of  the  English  goods  destined  for  Ispahan  and  Tehran  takes 
this  direction.  The  objections  to  it  are  the  necessity  of  transshipping 
the  merchandise  into  river  steamers  at  Bussorab,  and  the  exaction  of 
transit  or  custom  charges  by  the  Turkish  authorities.  It  is  scarcely 
necessary  to  observe  that  from  a  commercial  point  of  view  it  is  desirable 
to  avoid  the  passage  of  more  States  than  can  be  helped. 

I  would  not,  however,  say  one  word  against  a  proposal  to  open  up 
and  improve  this  route.  An  excellent  letter  drawing  attention  to  the 
desirability  of  a  railway  between  Baghdad  and  Khaiiakin,  close  to  the 
Persian  frontier,  appeared  in  TJie  Times  a  very  few  days  ago,  Mr.  Plowden, 
the  writer,  has  like  myself  been  struck  by  the  increasing  disadvantages 
(comparatively  speaking)  under  which  British  trade  is  carried  on  with 
the  markets  of  Northern  Persia ;  and  he  even  advocates  the  construction 
of  a  line  of  railway  over  the  entire  distance  between  Baghdad  and 
Tehran.  I  am  inclined  to  doubt  whether  such  an  undertaking  could 
1k)  made  to  pay.  I  know  the  whole  road  well,  and  am  certain  that  the 
first  cost  of  such  a  Une  would  be  very  heavy.     Between  Khanakin  and 


I 


4 


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BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSU  AND  THE  SEA. 


126 


^ 


KSrmMlwhfth  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Hamad&n  the  physical 
difficoltiefl  are  great,  and  I  believe  the  local  trafl5c  would  be  inBignificant. 
But  I  oordiaUy  agree  with  Mr.  Plowden  in  thinking  that  a  railway  as 
fkr  48  Khanakin,  over  about  100  miles  of  easy  country,  would  prove  of 
great  benefit  and  it  might  possibly  be  extended  hereafter. 

For  the  reasons  I  have  attempted  to  explain^  it  has  long  been  oon- 
sadcTBd  by  those  interested  in  the  question  that  the  Karun  river  (to  which 
I  meftnt  to  allude  at  the  beginning  of  the  paper  as  the  one  navigable 
stream  in  Persia)  offers  advantages  which  should  not  be  overlooked.  In 
the  volmne  of  the  Geographical  Society *8  Journal  for  1844  is  a  very 
cxjmplete  and  interesting  account  of  Lieutenant  Selby's  expedition  made 
in  1842  by  steamer  from  Mohammcrah  as  far  asShuster,  and  a  perusal  of 
that  paper  enables  one  to  form  a  tolerably  good  notion  of  the  commercial 
facilities  offered  by  this  route.  There  are,  however,  two  obstacles  to  the 
••lablishment  of  a  regular  service  of  steamers  on  the  Earun :  one,  the 
npids  at  Ahwaz ;  the  other,  the  extraordinary  supineness,  not  to  say 
opposition,  manifested  by  the  Persian  Government, 

Mohammerah  as  a  port  }>rescnts  unusual  advantages.  It  com- 
monicatee  with  the  Persian  Gulf  not  only  by  the  Shat-cl-Arab  which  is 
navigable  by  ocean  steamers  of  moderate  tonnage,  but  also  by  the  Khor 
Banninhir  which  was  in  former  ages  the  embouchure  of  the  Kariin,  and 
which  gives  a  channel  not  less  than  nine  feet  deep  at  low  water.  The 
Khor  Bamushir  is  Persian  on  both  sides,  while  tho  right  bank  of  the 
Shat^l-Arab  is  Turkish  territory.  The  development  of  trade  by  the 
Earhn  would  bo  of  great  benefit  to  Persia, and  Mohammerah  might  rival 
in  importance  its  neighbour  the  Turkish  port  of  Busaorah.  The  climate 
of  Mohammerah  is  good  throughout  the  year,  and  from  Novomber  up  to 
the  end  of  March  may  almost  be  called  cold. 

The  town  of  ShuBter  is  as  nearly  as  possible  at  the  same  dietanoo 
from  Ispahan  as  Shiraz,  and  tho  road,  according  to  Mr,  Mackenzie,  of  the 
firm  of  Gray,  Paul  &  Co.,  is  less  difficult  than  that  from  Bushire  to  the 
interior.  Mr.  Mackenzie  made  tho  journey  in  1875,  and  in  his  opinion, 
which  is  upheld  by  Sir  William  Taylour  Thomson  (late  Her  Majesty's 
Minister  at  Tehran)  the  advantages  of  the  route  from  Mohammerah 
over  those  of  the  ordinary  line  by  Shiraz  are  very  considerable.  The 
country  between  Ispahan  and  Shuster  was  until  recently  full  of  danger 
to  travellers  and  traders,  the  Bakhtiari  tribes  who  occupy  it  being 
noted  robbers,  but  a  marked  change  has  taken  place  in  this  respect,  and 
it  may  reasonably  be  anticipated  that  this  route  when  opi?n  to  commerce 
may  become  as  safe  as  those  in  other  parts  of  the  south  of  Persia. 
Mr,  Baring,  of  Her  Majesty's  Mission,  and  Captain  Wells,  tt.K.,  of  the 
Pereiau  Telegraphs,  travelled  over  this  road  so  lately  aa  November  1881, 
I  tad  were  very  cordially  and  kindly  received  all  along  the  route  by 

I^H     Hamnfc'n    Kuli    Khan ,  the    chief   of   the   Bakhtiaris,   and   his   officers. 
^^m     Captain  Wellfl  has  sent  me  a  very  graphic  and  amusing  account  of  the 


I 


126 


ON  TH£  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


m 


trip,  accompanied  by  a  valuable  sketck  map  of  the  road,  but  I  gather 
from  what  lie  writes  that  he  is  not  nearly  bo  Bangmno  as  Mr.  Mackonzio 
about  the  iramediatc  practicability  of  opening  out  this  line.     It  Beems 
probable,  however,  that  the  establislmient  of  a  regiilar  caravan  road 
betweon  Ispahan  and  Shiistor  would  lead  to  the  discovery  here  and  there 
of  easier  routes  than  those  followed  by  Mr.  Mackenzie,  and  afterwards 
I  by  Mr.  Baring  and  Captain  Wells.     Caravanserais  and  bridges  would  in 
time  bo  provided  and  the  moans  of  travelling  be  generally  ameliorated* 
I  am  however  deeply  grieved  to  record  that  Hassan  Kuli  Khan,  the  chief 
BO  friendly  to  Mr.  Mackenzie  and  the  other  English  travellers,  was  on 
the  13th  of  last  June  seized  and  put  to  death  (in  a  manner  and   in 
aoccordance  with  a  polity  t<K)  common  in  Peri»ia)  by  the  Prince  Governor 
of  Ispahan.    Hassan  Kuli  Khan,  the  Bakhtiari  Ilkhani,  was,  I  have  been 
told,  a  man  whose  own  hands  were  anything  but  ciean  of  blood-stains, 
but  at  least  he  kept  his  turbulent  followers  in  order  and  was  apparently 
really  anxious  to  co-operate  in  fostering  the  establishment  of  a  caravan 
route  through  iiia  district.     The  present  is  therefore  not  precisely  the 
moment  to  commence  operations  in  this  territory,  but  the  scheme  need  not 
on  that  account  be  discarded,  and  under  any  circumstances  the  establish- 
ment of  trustworthy  communication  by  the  Kariin  between  Mohainmerah 
and  Shuater  and  Dizful  would  open  up  a  new  and  promising  field  to  the 
British  trader,  whose  operations  would  gradually  but  certainly  extend 
northward  as  opportunities  presented  themselves.   Mr.  Mackenzie,  whose 
experience  of  Persia  enables  him  1o  calculate  very  closely  the  cost  of  | 
caravan  transport,  believes  that  were  the  Kariin  opened  up  to  Shuster 
his  fiiTQ  could  deliver  goods  at  Ispahan  at  36  krans  (a  krau  ll.>eing  worth 
about  lOrf.)  per  load  of  350  lbs.  as  against  60  krans  per  load  sent  from 
Bushire    to    Ispahan    via  Shiraz ;    and   he    estimates  that  under  such 
conditions  trade  by  tbo  Suez  Canal  woidd  beat  that  by  the  north  com- 
pletely out  of  the  field. 

It  should  he  noted,  moreover,  that  until  recently "  the  main  trade- 
route  of  the  north  of  Persia  lay  from  the  sliores  of  the  Black  Sea  through 
Turkey,  a  line  open,  of  course,  to  British  as  well  as  to  Russian  merchan- 
dise. The  rapidly  increasing  railway  system  of  the  Caucasus  will  soon 
absolutely  close  this  route  for  all  practical  purposes*  and  leave  the  trad©  ] 
solely  in  the  hands  of  Russia,  who  by  means  of  differential  tarilTs  will 
be  in  a  position  to  exclude  British  goods  altogether.  From  a  purely 
Persian  point  of  view,  therefore,  it  is  most  desirable  that  steps  should 
be  taken  to  counteract  the  tendency  of  the  existing  system  to  place  tbo 
country  in  a  connnercial  sense  at  the  mercy  of  her  formidable  neighbour. 
Free  navigation  of  the  Kariin  would  open  Persia  to  British  enterprise, 
and  would  emancipate  commerce  in  the  north  as  well  as  in  the  south 
from  de[Mjndence  on  the  forbearance  of  the  Russian  custom-houses. 

Cotton  from  Ispahan,  of  a  suporior  (juality,  would  find  its  way  tc 
the  coast  by  Shuster,  water  carriage  enabling  the  merchant  to  ship  i1 


BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSIA  AND  THE  SEA,  127 

Jirt  a  profit  to  India  and  England.    Business  in  this  staple  is  now  insig- 
nificant^ owing  to  the  enormous  cost  of  caravan  transport.   Petroleum  is 
«xu>thcr  valuable  article  which  abounds  in  parts  of  Fars  and  Khuzistan, 
and  it  might  be  utilised  as  fuel  on  the  river  steamers,  as  is  done  on  the 
Caspian  and  Volga.     As  an  illustration  of  the  enormous  loss  Persia 
snnnally  sustains  from  her  defective  means  of  carriage,  I  may  mention 
that  when  a  few  years  ago  Major  the  Honourable  George  Napier  visited 
Kirmanahah  he  found  about  80,000  tons  of  wheat  stored,  of  little  value 
ta  any  one  on  account  of  the  impossibility  of  removal.   The  prioe  of 
wheat  at  Kirmanshah  was  7  krans  for  700  lbs.,  while  at  Tehran  or 
Boshire  it  is  never  less  than  30  or  40,  and  usually  much  more.    In 
exchange  for  the  above-mentioned  80,000  tons  of  grain,  no  less  a  sum 
than  700,000/.  might  have  passed  into  Persian  pockets  had  it  been 
ponible  to  convey  the  com  to  Mohammerah. 

Although  Captain  Selby,  with  the  Indian  steamer  Assyria^  succeeded 
in  ascending  the  Eariin  to  within  five  miles  of  Shuster,  and  the  Diz 
dose  up  to  Dizful,  and  though  it  has  been  ascertained  that  by  the 
Abigargar  canal,  river  steamboats  could  in  the  driest  season  approach  to 
.  within  a  mile  of  the  first-named  town,  yet  the  natural  obstruction  of 
the  river  at  AhWaz  would  prove  a  very  serious  and  it  may  be  said  fatal 
hindrance  to  regular  through-running  between  Shuster  and  Moham- 
merah. From  Ahwaz  to  Mohammerah  is  easy  and  open.  From  Ahwaz 
to  Shuster  is  also  not  difficult.  In  December  1881,  Captain  Wells,  b.e., 
visited  Ahwaz  and  sent  me  a  carefully  surveyed  plan  of  the  rocks  which 
impede  the  course  of  the  river.  At  Band-i-kir  the  three  streams,  the 
Diz,  the  Eariin,  and*  the  Abigargar  meet.  Owing  to  the  nature  of 
the  country  and  the  great  difference  of  level  between  the  river  beds 
above  and  below  the  rapids.  Captain  Wells  thinks  that  to  open  a  passage 
by  blasting  would  probably  do  more  harm  than  good,  and  he  considers 
that  the  best  plan  to  follow  would  be  to  dig  a  canal  from  the  narrows  at 
A  in  the  accompanying  map  (inset  map  p.  184)  to  the  pool  above  Ahwaz, 
marked  B,  following  the  line  on  the  map.  Two  locks  would  bo  required, 
and  the  excavation,  which  would  be  2350  yards  in  length,  would  never 
exceed  35  feet  in  depth,  even  to  give  8  feet  of  water  in  the  canal.  The 
soil,  too,  seems  to  be  very  suitable  for  such  a  work.  The  execution 
of  this  canal  would  not  require  any  very  great  outlay,  and  it  would 
most  certainly  give  to  Persia  what  she  urgently  needs,  an  easy  highway 
from  some  of  her  richest  but  most  inaccessible  provinces.  For  Kir-  * 
manshah,  Dizful,  Shuster,  and  Behbehan  would  undoubtedly  avail  them- 
selves freely  of  this  outlet  now  so  neglected  and  yet  wanting  so  little  to 
render  it  practicable. 

Hitherto  the  Shah's  Government  has  declined  to  assist  in  any  way, 
or  even  to  allow  foreign  steam  vessels  to  run  on  the  Kariin  river. 
Messrs.  Gray,  Paul  &  Co.  were  willing  and  anxious  to  establish  a  regular 
service,  but  were  met  by  the  most  extraordinary  demands  for  port,  river. 


128 


ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


and  navigation  dues,  wliicli  effectually  nipped  their  acliemea  in  the  bud. 
It  is  not  difficult  to  gueBS  the  fountain  and  origin  of  the  oppositioo 
displayed,  and  I  Ciinnot  but  think  that  a  little  diplomatic  pressure 
judiciously  applied  at  Tehran  at  the  right  moment  would  overcome 
the  short-sighted  policy  of  the  Persians.  Her  Majeety's  Minister  has, 
it  is  true,  from  time  to  time  put  forward  representAtions  on  the  subject, 
but  so  far  without  any  satisfactory  result.  I  may  be  allowed^  perhaps, 
to  remark  that  the  Imperial  Government^  with  its  countle«a  pressing 
questions  to  arrange  all  over  the  globe,  cannot  b©  expected  to  pay  such 
attention  to  a  matter  of  this  kind  as  would  the  Government  of  India. 

It  vrill  be  readily  understood  that  under  no  circumstances  can  acoe» 
to  the  inland  centres  of  trade  in  Persia  be  rendered  smooth  or  easy. 
According  to  the  authority  of  Captain,  now  Sir  Oliver,  St.  John,  the 
height  of  Tehran  above  the  sea  is  some  4200  feet,  of  Ispahan  4700, 
Shiraz  about  the  same,  and  so  on ;  and  to  arrive  at  the  general  level  of 
the  interior,  range  after  range  of  stony  mountains  has  to  be  crossed  by 
some  means  or  other.  Once  on  the  higher  levels  there  are  stretches  of 
country  where  light  railways,  or  at  least  tramways,  might  bo  constructed 
and  worked  with  advantage.  But  there  is  not  nowadays,  in  my  opinion, 
movement  enough  in  Persia  to  call  for  any  such  works  on  an  extended 
scale^  Concessions  for  enterprises  of  this  description  have  indeed  from 
time  to  time  been  granted  to  European  capitalists,  but  have  invariably 
fallen  through.  At  the  Shah's  request  I  sent  out  on  one  occasion  an 
estimate  for  a  light  line  between  Tehran  and  Shah  Abdul  Azim,  a  much 
frequented  place  of  pilgrimage  five  or  six  miles  from  the  capital,  but 
although  the  calculated  cost  was  trifling,  and  this'small  start  might  have 
paved  the  way  to  greater  efforts,  nothing  more  was  heard  of  the  matter. 

The  Persian  in  authority  (and  indeed  the  Persian  not  in  authority) 
is  desperately  fond  of  coin,  not  to  spend,  but  to  hoard.  To  him  the  idea 
of  investing  money  with  even  the  most  assured  prospect  of  large  returns 
in  the  future  is  odious,  and  with  rare  exceptions  the  wealthy  natives 
have  no  desire  to  improve  the  general  condition  of  the  country.  Many 
of  them  visit  Europe  and  appear  to  thoroughly  appreciate  and  enjoy  the 
numerous  conveniences  and  luxuries  of  an  advanced  state  of  civilisation,, 
but  onoe  back  in  their  own  land  they  endure  with  perfect  contentment 
the  primitive  conditions  of  existence  which  have  prevailed  since  the 
Deluge.  At  any  rate  little  or  no  active  help  in  the  proBecution  of  a 
scheme  such  as  I  have  endeavoured  roughly  to  describe  can  be  looked 
for  from  the  Persians,  but  it  is  surely  not  too  much  to  expect  that  the 
antagonism  evinced  by  the  Government  of  the  Shah  should  be  with- 
drawn. In  this  case  British  mercantile  enterprise  is  ready  as  usual  to 
push  forward,  but  is  forcibly  and  foolishly  repelled. 

During  the  autumn  and  Avioter  of  1881-2,  Mr.  Baring  and  Captam 
Wells  made  together  a  series  of  interesting  journeys  in  this  little- visited 
Bouth-weBtem   part  of  the    Persian  empire.      After   travelling    from 


I 


■ 


• 


d 


BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSIA  AMD  THE  SEA.  129 

Itpfthan  to  Shuster,  as  mentioned  just  now,  they  proceeded  to  Shush  and 
IMsiiil,  and  then  marched  to  Ahwaz  by  Behbehan  to  Shiraz.    Captain 
Wells  has  sent  me  his  notes  and  his  plane-table  surveys  of  the  several 
Toutes  foUowed,  which  I  have  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Society,  and 
which  will  I  think  prove  of  great  utility  to  future  travellers.     It 
is  ooxious  to  see  how  large  and  how  numerous  are  the  tracts  in  Persia 
still  unexplored  by  Europeans.     Most  of  them  are  no  doubt  either 
stretches  of  desert  or  masses  of  mountains.     To  travel  off  the  beaten 
tracks  is  di£Bonlt  and  perhaps  dangerous,  but  assuredly  there  are  many 
parts  of  the  country  at  present  utterly  unknown,  which  would  well 
Tswiid  the  intelligent  and  careful  explorer.    As  an  instance,  I  may  refer 
to  another  short  tour  made  by  Captain  Wells  round  Lake  Nerfs,  but  a 
few  days' march  from  Shiraz,  which  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  a  kind  of 
seoondaiy  sheet  of  water  known  to  the  natives  as  Lake  Nargbiz^  which 
IB  iM)t  shown,  I  believe,  on  any  of  the  published  maps.    The  climate  on 
the  higher  levels  of  Southern  Persia  during  March,  April,  and  even 
Hay  is  thoroughly  delightful  and  invigorating,  and  the  mountain  slopes 
at  tliat  season  are  carpeted  with  the  most  bnlliant  flowers  such  as 
scarlet  tulips  and  anemones,  blue  gentian,  crocuses,  and  in  fact  every 
iDrtof  bulb.    As  the  summer's  sun  increases  in  strength  they  quickly 
fade  sway,  and  the  most  striking  charm  of  the  landscape  disappears. 
In  almost  all  parts  of  Persia  wild  goats  and  sheep  abound  on  the  more 
elerated  peaks,  but  to  follow  them  and  bring  them  down  requires  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  perseverance,  activity,  and  strength  on  the  part  of 
the  sportsman. 

To  return,  however,  to  the  immediate  subject  of  this  paper,  I  desire 
to  point  out  that  while  every  effort  should  in  my  humble  opinion  bo 
made  to  assist  in  the  construction  of  railways  in  Turkish  Arabia,  I  am 
not  very  sanguine  as  to  the  success  of  such  schemes  in  Persia.  I  shall 
not  believe  even  in  the  much  talked-of  line  from  Kesht  to  Tehran  until 
it  is  open  for  traflSc,  though  I  must  admit  that  in  this  case  Bussian 
piesBiire  may  achieve  marvels,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  country 
between  Cazvin  and  the  capital  is  well  suited  for  such  an  undertaking. 
But  while  millions  must  be  expended  there,  a  few  thousands  would,  I 
believe,  work  wonders  if  laid  out  on  the  simple  little  Karun  river 
proposaL 

I  have  tried  in  these  very  incomplete  remarks  to  show  that  the 
iiitnre  welfare  of  Persia  is  deeply  coocemed  in  the  encouragement  and 
development  of  commerce  through  her  southern  ports,  and  surely  the 
question  is  not  without  interest  to  Great  Britain  and  India.  Our  trade 
and  our  influence  in  this  part  of  the  world  are,  I  believe,  receding,  and 
unless  action  be  taken  to  support  and  help  within  reasonable  limits 
those  who  are  quite  prepared  to  press  forward  if  allowed,  Bushire, 
Bunder  Abbas,  and  Shiraz  may  before  many  years  have  passed  be  the 
only  parts  of  Persia  where  traces  of  British  trade  will  linger. 


130 


ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


The  pRESfDEKT,  ID  introducing  Colonel  CbampaiE^  said  tliat  be  had  beea  for  some 
years  the  Director-ia-chiei  of  the  ludo-Europaia  Teltv^raph  Departmeat — an  office 
in  which  he  succeeded  Sir  Frederic  Goldamid.     The  juiper  would  carry  them  tbrougl 
the  highways  and  byways  of  a  ]mrt  of  Persia  very  little  known  to  Englishmen 
and  besides  conveying  a  f^ood  deal  of  interestinjjj  geographical  information,  would 
open  up  commercial  considerations  in  which  this  country  was  greatly  interested. 
After  tho  paper — 

General  Sir  Frederic  Goldsmid  said  be  had  very  little  to  say  on  that 
particular  part  of  Persia  to  which  Colonel  Cbampain  bad  chiefly  alluded ;  but  he 
was  able  to  corroborate  the  statements  in  the  paper  wiili  regard  to  the  roads 
through  Persia.  He  had  entered  Persia  from  Tabriz,  by  Mashhad,  from  Sistan, 
from  Bunder  Abbas,  from  Buahire,  and  bad  possKl  out  of  the  country  two  or  tbrcti 
time*  by  Kirman  and  Kirmanahab ;  so  that  ho  knew  pretty  well  the  state  of 
the  roads.  Unfortunately  be  bad  not  been  by  Shuster,  Dizful,  or  the  Kariin  river. 
The  subject  of  the  paper  was  not,  however,  quite  unknown  to  bitn.     He  studied 

^it  when  it  was  referred  to  him  three  or  four  years  a^o,  and  had  always  thought  it 
..•would  be  an  aalmirable  project  if  it  could  pt^iesibly  be  bronglit  to  ]ierfection;  but  he 
Imd  a  much  larger  project  in  his  own  mind  wliicbj  be  thought,  most  at  somft 
future  day  ho  carried  out,  uaniely,  a  conijilete  railway  between  Knglaud  and  India, 
That  railway  could  never  be  complete*!  unless  it  went  through  Persia ;  for  it 
«eeme<i  to  him  out  of  the  question  that  it  should  go  through  Kussiannd  Afghanistan. 
Colonel  ChamjMiin,  in  wpeakingof  the  route  between  Kirman  and  Isj»aliau,  said  he  had 
not  been  there  himself,  but  he  (Sir  Fi-ederio  Goldsmid)  bad  been  twice  over  that  rend 
and  would  have  no  objection  to  dri\'e  along  it  in  a  stage  coach.  That  apf>earcd  to 
birn  to  be  the  line  of  the  future  railwa}',  and  from  Kirman  to  India  he  did  mot 
tiiink  there  would  be  any  great  dilliculty.  The  chief  difficuUy  would  be  to  get 
down  to  the  coast ;  but  that  could  be  overcome  by  properly  uelectin;;  the  route.  Onco 
on  the  Kca  coast  the  whole  way  to  Karachi  (KurracheeJ  was  very  plaiu.  It  apjwared 
to  him  uulbrlunate  that  no  one  would  contcniplale  a  railuay  without  looking  at 
immediate  profits.  The  oonnoctioa  of  philanthropy  with  railways  might  bo  rather 
romantic  and  Quixotic,  but  he  thought,  in  tliis  case,  that  what  now  appeared  a 
philanthropic  enterprise  would,  in  the  course  of  years,  prove  a  practical  and  remu- 

iHerative  one.  If  the  oidy  cousidemtion  were  the  profits  to  bo  obtained  the  first  year 
after  the  completion  of  such  a  railway,  it  Mould  never  bu  formed.  The  Euphrates 
Valley  Railway,   in  his  opinii>n,  was  quite   out  of  the  question.      However,  he 

^ibought,  the   sooner  attention   was   liiven   to  completing  the  cnmniunication  on 

•jfclio  wewt  of  Persia  Inwards  Tehran  the  better,  because,  failing  the  project  of  the 
great  Indian  railway,  which  could  not  be  carried  out  for  ft  groat  many  years, 
nothing  could  be  better  than  the  proposed  communication  partly  by  water  and 
partly  by  road,  via  Ahwaz  to  Ispahan  aud  Tehran.  Ho  himself  was  employed  for 
years  on  the  question  of  the  frontier  between  Afghanistan  and  Persia,  and  between 
Baluchistan  and  Persiti,  It  bad  been  a  great  happiness  to  him  to  know  that  how- 
ever unsatisfactory  the  arrangements  with  the  Afghans  might  be,  those  between 
the  Baluchis  and  the  Persians  were  so  satisfactory  that  for  more  tlian  ten  years  he 
bad  never  beard  of  any  dispute  between  them  with  respect  to  the  frontier.  He 
always  regarded  the  settlement  of  the  frontier  not  simply  as  a  political  question,  but 
as  something  which  would  tend  to  give  a  «iort  of  impetus  to  communication  between 
India  and  Persia.     In  the  absL-nce  of  railways  it  would  be  well  to  improve  the  land 

rcommunication  between  Kirmtm  and  Karachi,  which  would  be  a  very  simple 
task  indeed.  He  hofjcd  that  attention  would  also  be  given  to  communiaition  on 
the  side  of  the  Kanm  river. 

Mr,  G.  S.  Mackenzie  said  the  present  competitive  trade  routes  between  north 


I 


BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSIA  AND  THE  SEA.— DISCUSSION.  .131 

and  south  are:— From  the  north— Xst,  vi&  Trebizond  (a  Turkish  port, in  the  Black 

Sea)  to  Tabriz;   2nd,  viA  Poti  (the  Russian  port),  Tiflis,  and  Baku,  to  Tabriz 

and  Tehran.     From  the  south— 1st,  viA  Bushire  (in  the  Persian  Gulf)  to  Shiraz  and 

Iq»han ;  2nd,  vi&  Baghdad  (a  Turkish  port)  to  Kirmanshah,  Hamadan,  and  Tehran. 

The  natural  outlet  for  the  commerce  of  the  north  was  clearly  through  Russia,  and 

any  attempt  to  interfere  in  that  direction  with  the  monopoly  of  her  carrying  trade 

vonld,  in  his  opinion,  be  useless.    Russia  lias  for  years  past  been  steadily  improving 

her  means  of  communication  towards  Persia  and  Central  Asia,  and,  by  her  weight}- 

ioflnence  at  Tehran  contrived  that  what  few  improvements  have  been  made  by 

Peraa  herself,  should  be  directed  towards  the  shores  of  the  Caspian.     When  these 

shall  have  been  well  established,  and  the  route  through  Turkey  fallen  into  disuse, 

doobtless  by  the  imposition  of  prohibitive  dues,  British  manufactures  will  cease  to 

be  known  in  the  markets  supplied  from  the  north,  and  the  produce  of  Russian 

looms  alone  be  found.    There  was,  however,  a  poiot  beyond  which  commerce  from 

noitix  or  south  could  not  be  forced  without  strained  efforts.    A  glance  at  the  ma]) 

would  show  that  England  ought  to  possess  the  means  of  commanding  all  trade  south 

of  aline  roughly  drawn  along  say  Sihna,  Hamadan,  Eum,  Yezd,  Birjan,  and  so  on, 

to  Herat,  and  it  would  only  be  becoming  on  the  part  of  a  civilised  nation  to  assist 

usgrodgingly  in  what  is  surely  the  interest  of  Persia  herself,  viz.  the  development  of 

sll  hff  resources  whether  in  the  north  or  south. 

Hr.  Mackenzie  then  proceeded  to  describe,  briefly,  the  roads  passed  over  by  him 

in  1875,  on  his  journey  from  Ispahan  to  Mohammcrah  vid  Shuster,  and  back  again 

three  years  later,  from  Mohammerah  via  Shuster  to  Ispahan.     Shortly  after  his 

airiral  at  Bushire  in  1866  his  firm  found  it  necessary  to  open  agencies  in  Shiraz  and 

Ispahan,  the  chief  consuming  districts  supplied  from  Bushire.    This  neoessitateil 

hii  residence  in  the  interior  for  a  time,  when  the  long  and  expensive  land  carriage 

frran  the  ooast  was  so  prominently  brought  under  his  notice  that  he  began  to  study 

the  gaography  of  the  country.     With   Captain  Selby's  valuable  report  on  the 

juacticabflity  of  the  navigation  of  the  Karun  before  him,  it  was  evident  that  the 

dxHlest  distance  to  Ispahan,  as  the  crow  flies,  was  from  Shuster,  but  that  route  was 

aoknown  even  at  that  lat«  dat«.    All  his  efforts  to  obtain  information  respecting  it, 

(nm  natives  and  Europeans  alike,  failed.    No  one  had  been  across  it  from  end  to  end. 

ill  he  could  learn  was  that  the  road  was  impracticable  for  caravans  and  dangerous 

/or  travellers,  passing  as  it  did  through  the  heart  of  the  country  where  the  wild 

Bakhtlari  tribe  roam.    Having  already  travelled  considerably  over  the  beaten  tracks 

of  the  country  and  never  once  having  been  subjected  to  the  slightest  annoyance,  ho 

iwlieved  that  if  be  respected  prejudices  and  treated  them  with  the  courtesy  due  to 

Ws  host,  he  would  find  theBakhtiari  as  free  from  caste  prejudices,  as  courteous  and 

kind  to  the  stranger  (even  though  he  be  a  "  Ka6r  ")  as  according  to  his  experience 

Penuans  generally  are.    He  was  not  disappointed.    lie  started  towards  the  end  of 

Maich  1875  with  one  personal  attendant,  a  groom,  and  a  cook  (Persians) ;  none  of 

them  carrying  arms  of  any  kind,  and  each  having  a  horse,  one  to  carry  the  baggage 

and  a  spare  one  led  to  relieve  the  others  and  in  case  of  accidents.    To  Ardall,  the 

fourth  stage  from  Ispahan,  there  was  no  difficulty,  the  road  to  that  point  being 

mnch  frequented  and  well  known.    Ardall  is  the  summer  quarters  of  the  Bakhtiari 

tribe  and  principal  residence  of  the  llbeghi,  the  chief's  deputy  and  brother.     With 

him  he  hoped  to  make  friends,  and  there  obtain  his  guide.    He  found  there  the 

Bb^hi  and  his  three  sons,  who  housed  and  entertained  him  most  hospitably,  and 

were  moat  friendly.    He  told  them  frankly  who  he  was,  and  the  object  of  his 

jofumey.    They,  on  the  other  hand,  gave  hira  details  of  the  road,  and  a  guide  to  the 

Ilkhani  (the  ChieQ  who  fortunately  was  quite  at  the  Shuster  end  of  the  district,  the 

winter  quarters  of  the  tribe.    With  the  Ilbeghi's  man  as  guide  and  protector  all 


132 


ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


personal  danger  waa  at  an  end.  Strict  injunctions  were  given  that  he  was  to  be 
treated  as  the  chiefs  giieat,  all  food  and  provender  therefore  was  supplied  free  of 
cbarge  at  each  village  or  encampment  he  halted  at.  It  waa  with  some  dtflSculty  he 
purauftded  his  gtiide  that  he  could  not  permit  his  preseDce  to  he  a  tax  on  those  be 
stayed  with,  and  would  prefer  paying  fair  market  prices  for  everything,  though 
equally  grateful  for  their  kmdnesK.  In  duo  time  he  reached  the  llkhani's  camp 
without  mishap  of  any  kind,  and  found  him  and  hia  sona  to  be,  if  possible,  even 
more  friendly  disposed  than  hia  brother. 

Hassan  Kuli  Khan,  whose  authority  over  the  whole  Bakhtiari  region  was  all  hut 
ahfiolute,  was  in  many  respects  a  remarkable  man.  He  (Mr.  Mackenzie)  subsequently 
had  the  pleasure  of  entertaining  him  at  his  house  in  Bussorah.  Hi.H  death,  to  which 
Colonel  Champain  had  referred,  was  a  blot  on  the  Zil-i -Sultan's  otherwise  beneficent 
rule,  and  a  great  calamity  for  Persia.  Of  course  he  took  away  the  usual  orders  for 
guns,  pistols,  and  telescopes,  and  theae  he  sent  hack  as  gifts  in  recognition  of  the 
hospitality  and  valuable  assistance  he  received  on  his  journey.  This  cemented  a  friend* 
ship  which  proved  most  valuable  on  bis  second  trip.  Although  he  had  been  now  three 
years  absent  from  Persia,  he  was  in  constant  communication  with  these  chiefs,  who 
intrust  him  with  various  commissions,  and  although  unaccompanied  by  remittance, 
in  no  case  have  they  failed  to  send  the  money  promptly  to  Bussorah  in  pajnoaent  on 
receipt  of  the  articles,  Svich  is  the  confidence  he  had  in  them  that  should  he  ever 
again  visit  Ispahan  he  most  certainly  would  take  the  Shuster  route  in  preference  to 
any  other.  He  bad  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  if  one-half  the  labour  and  money 
which  had  been  expended  on  the  kotuls  (or  passes)  on  the  Shiraz  road  had  been 
applied  to  the  Shuster  route,  there  would  be  no  doubt  as  to  its  being  the  more 
direct  and  easier  way. 

ITie  several  routes  from  Shuster  then  are :— Ist  Shuster  to  Ispahan  by  Dopulan, 
the  one  he  took  on  his  first  journey,  mentioned  by  Captain  Wells,  12  stages,  or 
say  266  miles.  2nd.  Yii  Bazuft,  found  to  be  the  better  and  easier  one,  14  stage* 
(several  short  ones),  269  miles.  Bushire  to  Ispahan  via  Shiraz,  23  stages,  460 
miles.  He  was  told  by  natives  that  the  distances  from  Shuster  were  to  Kirmansbah, 
245  miles;  to  Hamadan  vill  Burijend,  25G  ;  to  Tehran  vi&  Burijend  and  Kum,  402 
miles.  On  the  subject  of  his  second  journey,  he  would  venture  to  read  some  extracts 
from  a  letter  of  Colonel  R.  M.  Smith,  r.e.,  to  Colonel  Champain,  dated  Tehran, 
September  9th,  1878 :— "  It  may  be  of  interest  to  you  to  know  the  result  of  a  journey 
which  Mr.  Mackenzie,  of  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Gray,  Dawes,  and  Co.,  of  London,  Btisliire, 
and  Bussorah,  has  just  made  from  Mohammera  to  Ispahan  vi4  Shuster.  That 
gentleman  made  the  same  journey  in  the  opposite  direction  by  a  different  road  in 
the  year  1875.  He  is  now  in  Teheran  for  a  few  days,  where  1  have  had  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  him  and  learning  the  following  details  of  his  recent  journey. — He 
started  from  Mohammera  on  the  27th  July  in  the  river  steamer  Karoon,  placed 
at  his  disposal  by  its  owner.  Sheikh  Hajji  Jahar  Khan,  Governor  of  Moham- 
mera. Hajji  Jahar,  now  an  old  man,  is  an  Arab,  but  for  many  years  has  been  the 
local  Persian  Governor  of  Mohammera,  under  the  Governor-General  of  the  province 
of  Arabiatan,  who  resides  alternately  at  Shaster  and  Khoramabad ;  he  engages 
largely  in  trade,  aud  is  now^  the  possessor  of  a  steam-launch  and  of  the  Karoon^  a 
steamer  of  120  tons,  built  expressly  for  him  for  river  navigation  by  Messrs.  Yarrow 
and  Hedley,  of  Poplar,  at  a  cost  of  6000/,  The  Karmn  plies  at  irregular  times 
between  Mohammera  and  Ahwa?.,  where,  as  you  are  aware,  the  continuous  naviga- 
tion is  barred  by  the  rapids  at  the  ruitis  of  the  old  Dam,  or  Band.  To  complete  the 
navigation  as  far  as  Shuster  it  would  bo  necessary  ta  place  another  steamer  above 
the  Band  to  ply  between  Ahwaz  and  Shuster.  This,  Hajji  Jahar  told  Mr,  Mac- 
kenzie, he  was  prepared  to  do,  if  secured  against  the  opposition  of  the  Government 


d 


BETWEKN  CKNTRAL  PERSIA  AND  THE  SEA— DISCUSSION. 


133 


m  TilMnn,  and  supported  by  the  co-operation  and  joint  interest  of  Mr.  Mackenzie 

llinrmlf  and  of  the  chief  of  the  Bakhtiarif  who  controls  the  country  between  Shuster 

ud  I^aban. — Starting  from  Mohammera  at  12,30  p.m.,  the  Karoon,  in  charge  of  her 

Anil Cftpt4iD»  with  Mr.  Mackenzie  on  board,  steamed  uninterruptedly  and  without  halt 

4Raing  the  night  to  Ahwas,  which  she  reacheil  in  twenty-three  hours,  at  11 .30  a.m. 

ant  day.     During  the  voyage  she  never  bumped  or  grounded.     At  the  lowest 

W1IUU,  the  captain  told  Mr.  Mackenzie,  at  do  part  of  the  river  between  Mobammera 

tDd  Ahwax  was  there  ever  less  than  three  feet  of  water :  a  depth  quite  sufficient  for 

tteMD  navigation. — From  Ahwaz  Mr.  Mackenzie  marched  with  baggage  mules  and 

bit  own  hones  by  regular  caravan  stagea  in  sixteen  days  to  Ispahan,  vi4  Shuster, 

Gotwend,  Bazooft,  aud  Chaharauilial.    Although  without  guard  of  any  kind,  he  met 

with  nothing  but  civility  the  whole  way.     During  eight  days,  viz.  from  the  second 

itage  oat  of  Shuster  to  within  four  days  of  Ispahan,  he  passed  through  country  both 

'vdl  watered  and  well  wooded  with  fine  timber  trees,  chiefly  beach.    A  chenar  tree, 

noiw  which  he  passed  a  night,  measured  35  feet  in  circumference.    The  villages  of 

Gotwend,  Chehlan,  and  Bazooft,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Shuster,  were  the  only 

OQM  be  passed  before  reaching  Chaharmaha!,  two  and  a  half  days'  march  from 

l^ihan.    There  were  no  caravanserais,  but  everywhere  the  posture  was  abundant ; 

Slodu  of  grain  were  seen  in  all  the  arab!e  patches.    At  night  numerous  fires  marked 

tti  {nations  of  Eeliaut  encampments  in  the  hills.     The  air  was  pleasantly  cool, 

nd  ths  mountain  passes  were  on  the  whole  less  formidable  than  on  the  Bushirc- 

Sum  road.     At  no  part  of  the  road  had  the  mules  to  be  unladen  to  enable  them  to 

pMk  The  wliole  route  from  the  gates  of  Shuster  lay  through  the  country  of  the 

Bakiilitris,  the  most  powerful  and  hitherto  the  most  dreaded  tribe  »n  Persia.     Wilh 

the  rale  of  the  chief  Eelkhani  the  viUa^ers  about  Shuster  and  Chabarmabal  all 

Ujmwd  themselves  well  contented^  and  told  Mr.  Mackenzie  that  nothing  was 

taeUd  from  them  beyond  their  regular  maliyat.    He  saw  several  unarmed  caravans 

(OlDg  to  Khonsar  and  other  places,  evidently  in  perfect  security.    By  the  more 

smthcm  road  through  Ardel,  which  he  took  in  1875,  the  Karoon  has  to  be  crossed 

It  Godar  Balatak  on  a  raft,  the  animals  swimming  alongside.     This  difhculty  is 

ifvided  OD  the  Bazooft  road,  which  is  consequently  more  frequented  by  caravans. 

Aom  Ahwaz  to  Ispahan,  the  mules,  the  first  that  presented  themselves,  were  hired 

ibrlbur  tomans  each,  or  little  more  than  half  the  usual  rate  from  Bush  ire.    The 

{naleit  he^ht  passed  by  Mr.  Mackenzie,  according  to  his  aneroid,  was  about 

900O  feeL    During  the  months  of  January  and  February  the  snow  at  such  places 

must  be  very  deep,  and  the  passage  of  caravans  often  impossible.    At  that  season 

of  the  year,  however,  almost  every  roaJ  in  Persia  is  liable  lo  be  blocked  with  snow, 

—Mr.  Mackenzie  appears,  by  means  of  open  confidence  in  the  good  faith  of  the  clan, 

(0  have  acquired  the  friendship  of  the  chief  of  the  whole  tribe,  Hussein  Kali  Khan 

Belkhani,as  well  as  that  of  his  sons  and  of  his  brother  the  Eelbeygi,  whose  authority 

0»«  the  whole  Bakhtiari  region  is  all  but  absolute,  and  who  is  in  many  respects  a 

remarkable  man.     His  habits  of  uncontrolled  command,  aided  by  a  gigantic  stature 

ud  an  imposing  presence,  make  him  the  hfau  ideal  of  an  Eeliaut  chief.    His  own  tribe 

yields  him  implicit  obedience,  and  many  of  the  rival  tribe  of  Eashgai  have  recently 

plioed  themselves  under  his  powerful  protection.     His  friendship  to  an  Englishman 

i«  therefore  a  matter  of  more  than  personal  importance,  especially  as  his  power  is 

kereditary  and  independent  of  the  fitful  and  precarious  good-will  of  the  central 

Government.     His  friendly  relations  with  Mr.  Mackenzie,  if  followed  up  by  the 

establishment  of  a  trade  route  through  his  country,  might  lead,  through  community 

oi  interests,  to  a  marked  increase  of  English  political  influence  in  Southern  Persia. 

At  Ispahan,  Hussein  Kali  Khan,  who  happened  to  be  there  at  the  time,  called 

on  Mr,  Mackenzie  and  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  see  the  Mohammera-Shuster* 


184 


ON  THE  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUNICATION 


Ispahan  route  thoroughly  opened  to  trade.  He  agreed  to  take  a  third  share  in  the 
cost  of  the  requisite  steamers  on  the  Karoon,  provided  Mr.  Mackenzie  had  also  an 
interest  in  and  the  managemeDt  of  tJiem,  and  said  he  wonld  himaelf  furnish  100  mules, 
<»r  as  many  as  might  bo  required*  for  the  land  transport  lietween  Shufiter  and 
Ispahan.  He,  moreover,  gave  Mr.  Mackenzie  a  sealed  papier  to  the  eflfect  that  he, 
the  Eelkhani,  would  hold  himself  personally  responsible  for  the  safety  of  the 
caravans,  and  would  repny  any  losses  by  robbery  between  Shuster  and  Ispahan. 
Sucli  an  undertaking  on  his  part  is  of  great  importance,  as  tliere  is  no  doubt  of  his 
ability  to  fulftl  it.  In  proc>f  of  his  sincerity  he  offered  to  give  to  Mr.  Mackenzie,  then 
and  there,  the  tstimatod  amount  of  hi*  share  in  the  steamers.— 'I'he  general  result 
of  Mr.  Mackenzie's  journey  seems  to  me  to  show  that  there  is  no  physical  difficulty 
in  opening  up  a  trade  route  between  Mohammera  and  the  heart  of  Persia,  and  that 
the  establishment  of  such  a  route  would  meet  with  the  hearty  support  and  co- 
•  Hieratiou  of  all  the  hwal  authorities.  The  only  real  obstacle  is  the  blind  obstinacy  of 
the  Government  in  Teheran,  whose  opp.isition  is  doubtless  due  to  their  obsequience  to 
liussia. — A  concession,  with  a  guarantee  of  R  per  cent.,  is,  I  understand,  about  to  be 
granted  for  a  ccwtly  railway  from  Teheran  to  Enzeli,  from  whicli  llussia  alone,  and 
not  even  Persia,  will  reap  any  benetit.  A  railway  from  Tiflis  to  Teheran  is  also  aaid 
to  be  under  discussion.  Unless,  therefore,  some  correspondiog  amelioration  of  tho 
southern  routes  is  forced  upon  the  Persian  Government,  Persia  must  eventually 
cease  to  be  a  field  for  English  commerce,  and  bec<»me  a  close  preserve  for  that  of 
KuBsia.  In  the  north,  Russia  has  alrea^ly  many  advantages  in  her  favour,  of  which 
>be  is  net  slow  to  avail  herself;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  England  ought  to  pro- 
dominate  in  the  south.  With  weekly  mail  steamers  from  the  Persian  Gulf  to  India, 
and  fortnightly  ones  to  London,  every  facility  is  given  for  the  development  of 
ED-^lisb  trade  and  Jntl nonce  which  subsidies  can  provide.  But  something  more  is 
wanted,  even  if  ouly  to  retain  what  has  already  been  acquired.  The  telegraph, 
as  you  are  aware,  was  successfully  established  in  spite  of  the  jealousy  and  opposition 
of  the  Persian  authorities.  Somewhat  similar  action  might  perhaps  be  advantageously 
applied  to  the  navigation  of  the  Karoon,  for  which  neither  public  exjienditure  nor 
money  guarantees,  nor,  in  fact,  anything  beyond  simple  permission  is  -wnnt^d. 
Once  fairly  started,  opposition  would  cease,  and  the  opening-up  of  the  country  to 
\mrestrictcd  English  euterprLie  would  Koon  come — like  the  telegraph — to  be  generally 
recognised  as  a  national  benefit. — A  lijiht  railway  from  Shuster  to  Isjmhan  might 
then  heoome  a  feasible  and  payin.:  uiuh'Ttaking,  and  the  table-land  once  reached, 
extensions  and  branches  in  every  direction  might  be  cheaply  and  eaaily  constructed. 
Such  a  railway  would  secure  to  a  great  extent  the  commercial  and  political  interests ' 
of  En^^land,  while,  at  the  same  time,  it  would  be  tlie  only  practicable  one  of  any  real 
value  to  Persia  itself.  All  speculation  on  sucli  subjects,  however,  is  premature  as 
long  as  the  great  natural  highway  of  the  Karoon  is  closed." 

So  much  for  the  Kartn  route.     The  route  from  Baghdad  to  Kirmanshah  ho 
would  leave  to  be  dealt  with  by  those  who  are  better  acquainted  with  it.    He  would 
give  a  few  facts  respecting  the  river  service  on  the  Tigris,  bctvceen  Bussorah  and 
Baghdad.     In  reply  to  Oolonel  Charapain's   objection  to  the  dues  levied  at  tho'J 
Turkish  custom-house  on  goods  destined  for  Persia,  he  might  mention  that  the  doty,  ^ 
being  only  1  per  cent,  for  goods  "  in  transit,"  is  more  than  comi^nsatcd  by  the 
incraued  water  carriage,  enabling  goods  to  be  placed  at  points  beyond  Kirmanshah,  m 
■which  could  not  be  reached,  on  equal  terms,  if  landed  say  at  Shuster.     So  that  evea  I 
though  the  Kariin  be  oiMJUed  to  navigation,  it  in  no  way  detract*  from  the  importance 
of  the  Tigris  to  this  country  as  a  water-way.     What  is  requiretl  there  is  that  we 
fchould  be  allowed  to  rim  such  number  of  steamers  under  the  English  flag  as  our 
extended  ocean  trafhc  demands.     In  1862  the  Tiurkish  Government  granted  a^ 


4 

I 


I 


BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSIA  AND  THE  SEA.— DISCUSSION.  135 

pmn  to  an  English  firm  at  Baghdad  to  place  two  steamers  on  the  rivo-,  and  they 
an  itill  restricted  to  that  number.  Notwithstanding  the  enormous  development  of 
tndednce  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal  in  1870,  the  means  of  carriage  on  the 
xjrer  Tigris  is  worse  now  than  it  was  fifteen  years  ago.  Midhat  Pasha,  when 
Goremor  of  Baghdad,  placed  several  Turkish  steamers  on  the  river,  and  altogether 
tben  was  a  wonderful  impetus  given  to  affairs  while  he  ruled  the  Pashalik.  After 
iTidhat's  removal,  no  money  of  course  was  expended  on  the  steamers ;  they  one  by 
ooe  dropped  off,  and  the  entire  trafiic  must  shortly  fall  on  the  two  English  steamers, 
if  it  has  not  done  so  already.  In  1870,  before  the  opening  of  the  Canal,  the  entire 
tnde  of  the  Gulf  was  (excepting  native  dhows)  carried  on  by  a  monthly  steamer 
from  Bonbay,  and  three,  or  at  most  four,  sailing  ships  a  year  from  England.  Now 
tbere  are,  in  addition  to  a  weekly  mail  steamer  from  Bombay,  three  native  owned 
itetmen  running  on  the  same  line,  and  two  lines  of  monthly  direct  steamers  from 
London.  A  French  line  too  has  lately  been  started.  Notwithstanding  this  increase, 
DO  step  has  been  taken  to  improve  the  inland  navigation  or  transport.  In  1870  the 
freight  on  iron  bars  from  London  to  Bushire  was  675.  %d.  j)er  ton,  and  in  1883  it  • 
is  aOfc  The  freight  from  London  to  Poti  or  Trebizond  is  much  the  same,  so  that  the 
oom^tion  between  north  and  soath  comes  to  be  one  simply  of  cheap  country 
caniage.  In  the  present  financial  condition  of  the  country  he  thought  it  was  pre- 
nu^me  to  talk  of  railways ;  bat  free  navigation  of  rivers,  roads,  and  tramways,  where 
jnctiable,  would  in  a  short  time  work  marvels.  Once  the  Persian  Government 
saw  the  advantages,  he  had  no  doubt  they  would,  as  in  the  case  of  the  telegraph,  feel 
thanseWes  the  necessity  of  progress. 

Colood  C.  E.  Stewart  said  he  had  returned  from  Persia  only  about  six  weeks 
ago.  Rossian  goods  were  undoubtedly  beating  English  goods  altogether  out  of  the 
mirket  in  Northern  Persia,  but  he  thought  that  that  was  due  to  the  enterprise  of 
tke  Ruanans  and  the  want  of  enterprise  shown  by  Englishmen,  llie  physical  diffi- 
culties the  Russians  had  to  overcome  were  quite  as  great  as  those  which  Englishmen 
would  have  to  surmount,  but  they  had  used  very  strong  influence  with  the  Persian 
Gorenunent,  and  bad  spent  a  great  deal  of  money  in  making  railways.  The  other 
•lay  he  travelled  by  railway  from  Baku  on  the  Caspian  to  Titlis,  the  capital  of 
Georj^  and  could  have  gone  on  to  Poti,  on  the  Black  Sea.  Another  railway  was 
being  made  from  Tifiis  to  Batoum,  and  one  was  projected  from  Tiflis  to  the  Persian 
;.-mtory  on  the  Caspian  near  Tabriz.  The  Russian  merchants  were  pushing  forward 
thor  trade,  but  he  did  not  think  that  Englishmen  ought  to  fear  any  rivalry.  If 
they  only  made  an  effort,  and  were  assisted  by  their  Government  as  the  Russians  had 
bt#D,they  would  be  able  to  undersell  the  Russians.  He  knew  there  was  in  England 
a  jeakmfiy  of  Russia,  and  perhaps  what  he  was  saying  might  be  distasteful  to  some 
persons  present  at  the  meeting,  but  he  could  not  help  feeling  that  the  Russians  were 
doing  a  great  deal  for  those  countries.  He  was  in  Dereghez,  on  the  Tekke-Turkoman 
borier,  two  years  ago.  During  his  latest  journey  to  Persia  ho  had  not  revisited 
Do^hez,  but  had  passed  through  the  southern  part  of  M.  Lessar's  route.  He  was 
liring  in  Khaf  when  M.  Lessar  passed  through  there,  but  was  not  at  home  when  that 
gentleman  arrived.  In  those  parts  of  Persia  two  years  ago  it  was  almost  impossible 
to  travel  without  an  escort  of  fifty  horsemen  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  Russian' 
action  the  slave  trade  had  been  stopped,  and  the  people  could  now  move  about 
with  the  greatest  pleasure  and  comfort,  and  trade  could  be  safely  carried  on. 
Englishmen  should  not  grudge  Russia  her  possessions  in  Central  Asia.  Of  course 
it  might  be.  in  some  ways  unpleasant,  but  Central  Asia  could  not  be  allowed 
to  remain  a  barbarous  desert  merely  because  it  would  be  disagreeable  to  have  the 
Bossians  near  India.  Russia  also  acted  very  liberally  in  allowing  English  goods  to 
go  through  from  Poti  to  Baku  and  Persia  free  of  duty.    A  committee,  of  which 


m  tH^  VARIOUS  MEANS  OF  COMMUxNICATION 


tlie  Grand  Duke  Michael  was  President,  has  lately  strongly  reported  against  any 
duty  beiog  imposed,  which  had  been  suggested  by  some  Moscow  merchants.  It  was 
BaJd  that  it  was  not  worth  while  for  English  merchants  to  take  that  road,  because 
Russia  might  at  any  moment  put  a  duty  on  their  goods ;  but  to  the  honour  of  Russia, 
it  must  ba  said  that  she  had  not  yet  done  so,  and  English  goods  could  now  go  to 
Persia  by  the  Rufwian  railroiui  without  a  i»eDny  duty.  He  lioj)ed  that  the  day  would 
come  when  Russia  and  England  would  better  understand  each  other  and  be  more 
friendly.  When  he  was  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Mashhad,  and  also  lower  down 
by  Birjand,  and  towards  the  borders  of  Sistan,  he  saw  very  large  cararans  of 
goods  coming  from  Bunder  Abbas  by  Kirman,  Iron,  a  little  copper,  and  a  great 
deal  of  cotton  goods  made  at  liorabay  came  up  to  Birjaod,  and  from  there  went  to 
Herat.  Russian  goods  could  not  as  yet  compete  with  English  goods  at  Herat; 
but  if  the  Trans-Caspian  railway  was  continued  as  far  as  the  Persian  bordeni,  ho 
thought  that  even  in  Herat  the  English  would  be  beaten  out  of  the  market  unless 
they  took  some  steps  to  improve  their  communication  with  Southern  Persia,  and  no 
line  of  communication  was  more  important  than  that  of  the  Kariln  river. 

Mr.  Russell  Shaw  said  that  three  years  ago  he  went  to  Baghdad  for  the  purpOM 
of  examiaing  into  and  reporting  on  a  line  of  railway  from  Baghdad  to  the  holy  plaoes 
— Kerbelai  and  Meshed  Ali— on  the  right  bank  of  the  Euphrates  to  the  south-west 
of  Baghdad,  with  an  extension  from  Baghdad  to  the  Persian  frontier  on  the  north-east. 
His  attention  was  dmwn  at  the  time  to  the  Kariin  river  as  being  the  most  feasible 
entry  into  Persia  for  commercial  purposes,  as  both  sides  of  the  river  belong  to  that 
country,  and  the  draft  of  water  nearly  up  to  Ahwaz  was  stated  to  be  the  same  aa 
the  draft  on  the  Tigris  to  Baghdad,  that  is,  three  feet  six  inches.  All  sea-borne 
foreign  merchandise,  other  than  Russian,  imjiorted  into  Persia  to-day,  enters  either 
through  the  port  of  Bushire,  or  else  through  Khanakin,  the  frontier  town  on  the 
road  from  Baghdad  to  Tehran.  The  goods  are  transshipped  at  Bussorah  ioto  the 
river  steamers  which  ply  to  Baghdad,  aod  thence  by  mules  or  camels  into  Persia.  In 
Persia  it  is  never  a  question  whether  the  country  would  gain  by  the  working  of 
steamers  and  the  cheapening  of  transfwrt,  but  simply  how  much  is  to  be  paid  at 
Tehran  and  elsewhere  for  a  very  doubtful  privilege.  The  producing  and  consuming 
districts  are  all  situated  on  the  high  table- land, 'which  cannot  be  reached  vrithout 
passing  summits  of  at  least  7000  feet,  unless  maybe  from  the  side  of  Baluchistan.  This 
said  Persian  table-land  may  be  compared  to  an  island  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  plun- 
derers, except  to  the  nurth,  where  the  Russian  advance  on  the  Attrek  valley  has 
made  the  frontier  secure.  But  whether  it  is  a])proached  by  way  of  the  Karun  or  by 
the  road  from  Baghdad  to  Khanakin  or  from  Resht,  the  difficulties  of  ascent  for  a 
railway  will  not  be  small,  and  from  what  he  saw  of  Persia  on  his  ride  from  Baghdad 
to  Tehran  and  Resht,  he  did  not  think  that  any  but  very  cheap  lines  would  return 
any  interest  whatever  for  many  years.  From  tbe  description  which  Mr.  Mackenzie 
had  just  given  of  the  land  route  from  Ahwaz  on  the  Karfm  to  Ispahan,  there 
does  not  seem  to  be  any  easy  route  into  the  interior  from  the  terminus  of  the 
navigable  portion  of  tho  river.  In  all  Persia  there  is  only  one  English  firm,  one  or 
two  Dutch  and  Swiss  houses,  and  there  ends  the  foreign  commercial  community. 
Colonel  Stewart  had  referred  to  what  the  Russians  have  done  on  the  northern  Persian 
frontier;  now  Baku  was  taken  by  the  Ruaaiaos  in  1806,  and  the  railway  connecting 
this  great  petroleum  district  and  imiwrtant  town  with  the  Black  Sea  will  be  opened 
in  January  1B83,  that  is,  after  seventy-seven  years  occupation !  There  is  not  a  cart 
road  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  which  can  be  dignified  by  that  name ;  never- 
theless, the  RusskuB  have  done  wonders  in  the  east,  and  particularly  for  tbe  northern 
frontier ;  but  then  they  have  laid  their  railways  either  on  their  own  soil  or  on  that 
of  countries  which  sooner  or  later  they  intend  to  annex.     General  Qoldsmid  bad 


BETWEEN  CENTRAL  PERSU  AND  THE  SEA.— DISCUSSION.  187 

(OBclMdoa  a  grand  acheme  for  a  railnray  from  Constantinople  through  Tabriz,  Tehran, 
]bibed,and  Herat  to  India ;  others  favour  a  line  across  Mesopotamia  down  the  shores 
df  die  Fenian  Golf;  others  the  80-<^led  Euphrates  Valley.  Now,  even  if  any  of 
tbeM  ndlwaya  ran  through  an  English  dependency,  or  through  countries  with  some 
lortof  zcspoDsible  government,  their  merits  as  immediately  paying  lines  would  not  be 
{{fuent,  and  an  imperial  guarantee  would  most  certainly  be  requisite  in  order  to  be 
^to  raise  the  capital  iu  England.  But  the  granting  of  such  a  guarantee  for  a 
aHway  ntoated  entirely  in*  the  possessions  of  various  foreign  powers  appears  entirely 
oBt  <rf  the  question,  and  as  railways  cannot  be  made  without  money,  the  establish- 
neat  <rf  these  means  of  communication,  except  in  the  north  by  the  Russians,  will, 
ii  ail  probability,  be  the  work  of  many  years  unless  some  great  change  occurs  in  the 
politiad  state  of  both  Persia  and  Turkey.  The  projected  railway  from  Baghdad  to 
the  hdy  {daoes  and  the  Persian  frontier  would  open  up  Persia  as  well  as  the  route 
propoMd  by  the  author  of  the  paper,  but  as,  in  order  to  prevent  foreign  inter- 
TcntioD,  the  Turkish  Government  expressly  prohibits  the  sale  of  the  concession 
except  to  Turkish  subjects,  the  enterprise  remains  a  dead  letter,  although  the  line 
mold  pay  very  well  indeed,  the  country  being  perfectly  flat  and  the  traffic  very 
gmt  l^ie  Ottoman  Government  like  it  to  appear  as  if  they  were  granting 
flOPCTwii<«it  to  open  up  their  country,  but  it  is  only  to  make  believe,  for  if  the  con- 
ceMOOB  are  given  to  Ihirks,  subject  entirely  to  Turkish  laws,  and  if  they  cannot  be 
tntttfemd  to  Europeans,  they  are  quite  useless.  It  is,  therefore,  waste  of  time  and 
monej  to  try  and  promote  extensive  railway  communications  through  such  countries 
88  FMia  and  the  Ottoman  Empire,  unless  such  enterprises  can  be  placed  under  the 
pcote^on  of  those  Governments  whose  subjects  provide  the  funds.  The  distance 
to-dsy  between  the  Russian  and  Indian  railway  systems  on  an  air  line  is  not  over 
500  miles.  If  the  English  and  Indian  Governments  wish  to  promote  trade  with 
Ferdi  the  state  railway  now  ending  at  Sibi  should  be  extended  to  Qucttah,  and 
thoMe,  avoiding  Afghanistan,  through  Baluchistan  to  some  convenient  point  on  the 
Feniin  frontier ;  with  Kurrachee  (Karachi)  as  a  commercial  basis,  and  a  depdt  on  the 
hrders  of  Persia,  English  goods  would  defy  competition.  But  is  the  game  worth 
tbe  candle? 

The  FBEsroEirr,  in  moving  a  vote  of  thanks  to  Colonel  Champain,  said  that  the 
primary  object  of  the  Society  was,  undoubtedly,  the  study  of  geography  pure  and 
smple,  and  they  pursued  that  object  regardless  of  any  commercial  profit  that  might 
uiie  from  it.  Their  profit  was  extended  knowledge,  and  with  that  they  were 
9tii5ed  ;  but  as  Englishmen, "  although  they  were  on  science  bent  they  had  a  frugal 
Bind,' and  were  not  at  all  sorry  to  see  science  point  out  profitable  paths  of  commerce. 
H«  WIS  gratified  at  the  turn  the  discussion  had  taken.  It  was  how  evident  that 
Vhat  had  to  be  done  in  order  to  re-establish  the  position  of  England  in  Persia,  was  to 
oompete  with  their  powerful  and  active  rival,  Russia,  in  the  peaceful  paths  of  com- 
mercial enterprise.  The  discussion  had  showed  how  that  competition  might  be 
oiried  on.  Undoubtedly  they  must  all  wish  that  the  magnificent  scheme  so 
T^oroosly  sketched  out  by  Sir  Frederick  Goldsmid  should  be  carried  into  execution, 
bat  although  Russia  had  made  railways  through  her  own  territories  or  dependencies 
vhile  England  might  be  called  upon  to  make  them  through  foreign  countries,  it  was 
aews  to  him  to  hear  that  English  capital  had  not  been  employed  very  largely  in 
ukiDg  railways  in  countries  that  were  not  dependendcs.  But  in  waiting  for  the 
ezecQtion  of  the  larger  scheme,  he  thought  it  had  been  clearly  demonstrated  that  it 
wv  possible,  at  a  very  small  cost,  to  get  a  route  into  the  heart  of  that  part  of  Persia 
«ten  alone  Englishmen  could  hope  successfully  to  compete  with  Russians.  The 
Slab  of  Persia  visited  England  some  years  ago,  and  great  expectations  were  formed  of 
the  effect  which  would  be  produced  on  his  mind  by  the  sights  of  British  enterprise 

Ko.  m.— March  1883.]  l 


1S8 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA, 


and  dviUsftUou.  Some  feeblo  efforts  had  been  made  to  obtain  in  Persia  rcsol 
somewhat  similar  to  those  seen  in  England,  but  he  was  afraid  that  day  by  day  the 
memory  of  what  the  Shah  saw  here  became  weaker  and  weaker.  But  at  any  ratfr 
there  was  one  institution  which  (loimshed  in  that  country,  namely  the  t^U-gra] 
The  price  paid  by  England  for  carrying  the  teleiajaph  through  Persia  to  Kurrach 
was  that  a  siugle  wire  should  be  laid  and  maintained  by  us  for  the  use  of  Persl 
That  wire  had  been  greatly  used  by  the  Persians.  It  was  managed  by  them  and  had 
developed  a  great  dejil  of  intelligence,  and  it  was  tjuite  possible  that  it  might  be 
the  beginning  of  a  commercial  spirit,  which  among  so  clever  and  intellectually 
gifted  a  people  would  rapidly  extend,  if  it  only  met  with  a  little  encouragemetitj 
from  their  Govemnient.  What  was  wanted  by  England  was  not  the  material  ai4!J 
of  Persia,  but  the  withdrawal  of  that  passive  resistance  which,  in  common  witk 
most  Eastern  rulers,  she  manifesteil  on  almost  every  occasion.  It  was  clear  that 
she  would  offer  no  obstacles  the  route  up  the  Kariin  wonld  very  soon  be  mail* 
practicable  ;  and  he  could  not  but  think  that  if  it  were  steadily  pressed  upon  thei 
Persian  Government,  tlie  desired  result  would  be  obtained.  At  any  rate  it  seemed  to 
him  that  if  Englishmen  had  many  officials  out  there  like  Colonel  Chamixiin  and. 
Colooel  Smith,  and  many  men  of  active  enterjirise  like  Mr.  Mackenzie,  success  would 
soon  be  secured ;  and  he  would  not  be  at  all  surprised  if  that  evening's  discussion 
gave  a  very  sensible  impulse  to  a  schotocof  ko  much  importance  to  British  commerce 
and  British  influence  in  the  Eiist. 


ratfr 

sia^H 
badV 


Surveying  Tmirs  in  SoidJiern  Fersia.    By  Captain  H.  L.  Wells,  bjs.* 

Maps,  p.  184.  ^M 

1.  A  Journey  round  Lake  Nerls. 

Ox  April  27th,  1881,  I  loft  SMraz  for  Ncris,  in  company  with  Major 
K.  S.  Thompson,  b.sc.  Skirting  the  town  on  tho  north,  wo  followed  the 
ruined  walls  to  the  butchers'  quarter  on  the  east ;  leaving  this,  wo^ 
turned  north-east,  past  the  Dil-Gueha  (a  garden),  in  which  Malcolm  waaW 
entertained,  and  the  tomb  of  the  poet  Saadi,  and  entered  the  pass  leading 
through  barren  mountains.  Our  way  waa  rather  Btee])  and  stony  to  the 
water-parting  dividing  the  basin  a  of  tho  Shiraz  and  Nerfs  lakes,  which 
is  only  some  10  aiilea  from  iShiraz ;  and  ob  we  had  started  late,  it  waa 
thought  best  to  make  for  the  nearest  halting-place,  which  was  gained 
by  turning  about  two  miles  off  the  road  to  the  north  ;  and  there,  nestled 
in  tho  hills,  we  camo  on  tho  pictiiresqne  little  village  of  Baden.  Onr 
welcome  was  not  hearty,  as  the  village  was  inhabited  by  those  most 
inhospitable  and  abominable  of  people,  Seynds,  who  informed  us  that 
no  white  man  had  ever  strayed  into  their  sanctum  before.  From  Shiraz 
to  Baden  is  13  miles. 

On  the  28th  we  regained  the  road,  which  since  the  passage  of  the 
water-parting  had  followed  the  open  ground  sloping  down  to  tho  Bau- 
damir  basin.  Lake  Neris,  however,  was  not  yet  visible.  Some  six 
miles  from  Baden  wo  came  on  regular  cnltivation  carried  on  by  means  olM 
irrigation  from  wells.  The  people  were  inhabiting  huts,  unfortified  and 
*  Communicated  by  Golonel  J.  U.  Batenian  Champa  io. 


SUBVEYING  TO0RS  IN  SOUTHERN  TEUSIA. 


189 


liuih  «p  aniler  the  hills,  but  they  aro  said  to  march  away  south  with 
their  U>nt3  in  the  winter.  Gradually  the  eloping  country  became  flat, 
thenitd  led  into  the  open,  past  the  villages  of  Ku»lik-i-Miillah,  leaving 
tlisM  of  Daria  and  Dobeh  on  the  right,  and  the  plain  of  Merv-dasht 
ed.  At  this  season  of  the  year  it  looked  green  and  fertile, 
nmnerous  fortifitd  villages  dotted  along  in  a  lint;,  showing  the 
mma  of  the  Bandamir  river.  About  four  miles  further  brought  us  to 
Kladnbad,  which,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  ▼illages  in  the  plain,  was 
Mfiod.  Provisions  seemed  plentiful,  fodder  in  abundance,  firewood  a 
Utile  scarce.  Our  swash-buckler  guides, » 'f  whom  we  had  three,  supplied 
by  the  Kaw4m-ul-Mulk,  Governor  of  Shiraz,  had  to  make  a  great  fus» 
Wfbre  they  could  get  us  eggs  and  milk.  Wo  pitched  our  tents  outside 
the  village,  the  head-man  supplying  guards  for  our  baggage,  to  whom 
we  paid  half  a  kran  each  in  the  morning. 

All  this  country  is  the  property  of  the  Kawum-ul-Mulk  aforesaid, 
aad  006  of  his  agents  was  here»  al»out  to  start  on  a  tax-gathering  expe- 
£iticA  to  the  lliyats,  or  nomads,  large  encampments  of  whom  were  to 
he  sidi  to  the  east,  their  black  tents  showing  oat  well  against  the  green 
laftnrew  Perhaps  this  agent  may  have  known  sometbing  of  ihe  country 
be  WIS  going  through,  but  certainly  the  men  supplied  us  as  guides 
kiwv  absolutely  nothing,  and  I  believe  none  of  thorn  had  ever  travelled 
tiorwd  before.  Our  road,  which  to  Khairabad  had  been  due  east,  now 
turacd  south  by  east;  from  Baden  to  Khairabad  19  miks. 

April  29th. — Our  road  lay  south  by  east  along  tlie  lower  slopes  of  the 

liOla  that  bound  the  Neris  Lake  basin  on  this  side.     The  Iliyat  tents  are 

pkdied  in  lines,  and  from  a  distance  look  like  companies  of  troops  drawn 

ap  in  battle  array,  with  supports  and  reserves  in  due  order.     Leaving 

ths  low  pasture-lands,  on  which  they  stand,  to  the  left,  we  proceed 

cfTBT  undulating  baiTen  land,  with  a  slight  slope  towards  the  lake  which 

vufleen  stretching  away  to  the  south-east.     We  came  on  some  nomade 

(•odiiig  camels  and  digging  for  truffles,  which  are  evidentl}"  plentiful 

len,  for  tlie  lads  had  their  smock  skirts  full  of  them,  and  gave  us  some 

ling.     After  16  or  17  miles  we  reached  Kerameh,  perched  on  a 

eminence  with  gardens  below,  in  wliich  are  almond  and  fig-trees. 

It  u  watered  by  a  good  stream,  which  above  the  village  turns  a  mill. 

Tillage  goes  shai-es  in  the  water  supply  with  another  named  Sigi- 

which  is  about  two  miles  nearer  -the  lake.     The  road  travelled 

iloDg  to-day  and  yesterday  was  fit  for  wheeled  traffic,  and  from  Shinus 

for  guns.     All    supplies  at  Kerameh  are  plentiful.     The  villagers,   a 

ftalwart  race  of  independent-looking  fellows,  have  nothing  to  do  with 

thfl  dwellers  in  tents. 

April  30/A. — We  descended  both  towards  the  lake  and  along  the  slope 

kbe  hills.     The  land  on  both  sides  showed  marks  of  ancient  cultivation, 

Vith  ruined  wells,  but  is  evidently  not  touched  nowadaj's. 

At  Uallalabad  is  a  caravanserai  built  in  mud  j  it  waa  oocnpied  by 

L  2 


140 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


Iliy^to.  Shortly  after  pasBmg  it  the  road  oomea  to  near  the  margin  of 
tho  lake,  having  to  round  the  lower  slopes  of  the  Geloger,  and  to  croaa 
a  brackish  stream  that  flows  from  its  foot ;  this  spot  is  known  as  Pul-i- 
Talkh,  or  •'  Bitter  Bridge."  It  is  said  to  bo  a  resort  of  robbers ;  fonr  men 
with  guns  were  seen  hereabouts  by  our  caravan,  which  was  preceding 
tu,  and  they  cauaed  the  servants  much  anxiety,  esj^ecially  as  Bultan,  the 
guide  and  escort,  an  awful  coward,  announced  that  the  ground  was  too 
rough  to  manojuvTO  his  horse,  and  that  therefore  he  could  not  get  at 
the  *•  Hons  of  liurat  fathers"  and  utterly  demolish  them,  as  he  otherwise 
would  have  done.  The  four  men  probably  thought  tho  caravan  too 
numerous,  or  saw  us  coming  up  in  tlio  distance,  and  so  loafed  by  like 
jioaccable  people,  and  salaamed  to  ub  as  wo  passed.  Opposite  the  moun- 
tain tho  lake  narrows,  and  a  rocky  island  juts  up  in  its  centre.  The 
view  looking  back  is  very  fine  :  the  upper  waters  of  the  lake,  blue  like 
the  sea ;  tho  plain  of  Merv-dasht,  with  mountains  on  both  sides ;  and  in 
the  distanco  tho  Knh-i-bamu,  visiblo  north  of  Sliiraz.  All  this  is  lost 
to  view  when,  on  rounding  tho  foot  of  the  mountains,  tho  lower  stretch 
of  tho  lako  comes  into  view,  bending  far  away  towards  Neris,  with  a 
high  range  of  mountains,  wooded  on  their  slopes,  reaching  down  to  the 
lake  on  the  right,  and  barren  hills  of  rounded  shape  coming  right  down 
to  the  water  on  tho  north  Bhoro.  Tho  view  is  very  beautiful,  especially 
with  tho  varied  changes  of  blue  to  bo  seen  in  the  water,  and  the  un- 
wonted Bight  for  Persia,  of  almost  a  forest  of  trees.  Aa  we  entered  the 
vfood  it  proved  to  bo  of  low  pistachin-nut  trees,  which  were  jnst  covered 
with  unripo  fruit.  Tho  flies  from  these  trees  immediately  attacked  us 
and  our  horses,  and  made  the  remainder  of  our  day's  march  unpleasant. 
1  l)oliovc  that  later  in  tho  season  these  woods  are  almost  dangerous  for 
horsoB,  ou  account  of  a  large  and  venomous  fly  which  worried  ours 
terribly.  At  Geloger  there  is  nothing  but  a  dtjep  pond  of  muddy  rain- 
water ;  its  depth  was  proved  by  one  of  the  mules,  on  which  sat  the  man 
carrying  my  plano-tablo,  going  headlong  in,  in  its  eagerness  to  get  at 
tho  Hwoot  water,  and  having  to  swim  for  it.  The  plane-table,  thanks  to 
its  leather  case,  was  little  damaged.  The  mountain  above  this  spot  still 
had  snow  ou  its  summit. 

From  the  muddy  pond  to  our  halting-place  at  Khan-i-khet  was 
three  miles  of  gentlo  descent,  to  where  a  defensible  tower  and  an  old 
imarosadeh  stood  near  the  banks  of  a  stream  of  brackish  water,  on  a  level 
almofit  with  tho  lake  but  two  miles  from  its  slimy  margin.  There  are 
no  permanent  habitations  here,  but  the  tower  and  a  shed  beside  it  are 
ooouptod  by  the  people  who  come  from  Khir  to  cultivate  the  few  fields 
that  are  watered  by  the  brackish  stream. 

We  walked  down  to  tho  lako  for  a  bath,  but  found  it  impossible  to 
got  into  water  above  our  knees,  though  we  trudged  away  for  at  least  a 
quarter  of  a  mile.  Large  flocks  of  flamingoes  were  flying  to  and  fro,  and 
A  largo  species  of  duck,  black  and  white  in  colour.    The  shore  of  the 


4 
4 

4 

4 


I 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 

lake  had  an  unpleasant  soapy,  saline  smell,  when  the  mud  was  stirred. 
The  route  we  travelled  along  to-day  is  well  adapted  for  wheeled  traffic, 
but  there  are  no  supplies  to  speak  of  except  firewood ;  water  bad,  but 
drinkable ;  distance,  18  miles. 

May  1*L — Leaving  the  vile  spot,  Khan-i-khet,  our  road  ran  through 
the  woods  that  fringe  the  south-by-west  shores  of  the  lake. 

After  five  miles  the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent  was  passed,  and  soon  the 
pistachio-trees  thinned  out  and  disappeared  ;  fine  streams  of  clear  water 
were  crossed,  but  they  were  all  brackish  to  within  half  a  mile  of  Ehir, 
■where  we  suddenly  came  upon  a  sweet  spring. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Ehir  there  is  a  coDsiderable  amount  of 
cultivation  of  wheat  and  opium,  and  some  good  gardens  of  fruit-trees  are 
scattered  over  the  plain,  which  here  juts  out  into  the  lake  in  the  form  of 
a  promontory.     From  Ehan-i-khet  it  is  19  miles  to  Khir. 

May  2nd, — From  Khir,  through  cultivated  ground  for  three  miles,  wo 
were  glad  to  quit  a  place  which  is  more  infested  with  flies  than  even 
Delhi  or  an  Indian  bazaar.  Beyond  the  cultivated  district  are  stony, 
sterile,  mountain  slopes,  leading  right  down  to  the  lake.  Looking  bads, 
the  pass  (through  which  the  road  leading  to  Shiraz  via  Pul-i-fasa  makes 
its  way  through  the  mountains)  is  to  be  seen.  The  distances  by  it,  and 
the  way  we  came,  are  very  nearly  equal.  At  15  miles  from  Ehir  the  end 
of  the  lake  is  reached,  where  it  dies  out  in  white  ooze.  A  good  stream  of 
fresh  water  flows  into  it  here,  and  beyond  it  a  plain,  for  the  most  part 
cultivated,  leads  right  up  to  Neris,  the  village  of  Bozak  being  passed  on 
the  left  hand.  The  plain  is  rendered  more  remarkable  by  numerous  rocky 
islands  (as  they  may  bo  termed)  that  rise  out  of  it ;  and  behind  a  pro- 
montory of  these,  inclosed  on  the  other  two  sides  by  mountains,  is  the 
picturesque  little  town  of  Neris,  with  its  gardens  and  large  walnut-trees, 
looking  bright  above  the  sea  of  poppy-heads  which  form  the  foreground 
of  the  picture.    From  Khir  it  is  24  miles  to  Neris  of  flat,  easy  road. 

We  halted  May  the  3rd,  having  been  well  housed  by  the  local 
governor,  who  sent  us  presents  of  fruit  and  yellow  and  rod  roses; 
he  alSb  came  to  see  us,  and  took  us  over  his  own  house,  where  there 
were  some  very  fine  orange-trees.  The  people  were  exceedingly  civil, 
and  women  came  with  all  sorts  of  strange  disorders,  asking  for  remedies. 
There  is  a  manufactory  of  rough  pottery  here,  from  kaolin  found  in  the 
mountains  about  four  miles  off;  the  articles  are  very  highly  glazed. 

May  4/A. — The  heat  is  becoming  excessive.  We  leave  Neris  on  our 
return  journey,  and  soon  hit  off  the  north-east  comer  of  the  lake,  and 
turning  to  the  right  across  a  low  range  of  hills  look  down  on  a  bare  and 
uncultivated  plain,  with  ruins  of  fortified  villages  dotted  about.  This 
is  called  Dasht-i-khak. 

The  kanats,  or  irrigation  channels,  that  formerly  supplied  these 
habitations  with  water,  have  fallen  in,  or  failed,  and  the  whole  of  the 
people  have  abandoned  the  district.     We  had  to  halt  under  the  hills  at 


142 


SURVLnXG  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


a  small  spring,  otherwibe  we  shoald  liave  been  without  water.  The 
geological  features  of  the  country  aro  very  peculiar.  The  hillB  we  had 
just  crossed  were  of  conglomerate,  broken  tlirongli  by  a  vein  of  white 
stone  somewhat  similar  to  quartz,  but  friable.  On  tho  north-west  side 
of  the  hill  the  rocks  are  so  strongly  impregnated  with  iron  that  it 
is  impossible  to  use  the  compass,  a  lump  the  size  of  an  egg  leading 
the  needle  in  any  diroctiou.  Wild  rhubarb,  of  the  sort  used  for  cooking 
in  England,  is  very  plentiful  on  the  hills.  We  had  some  nineteen  miles 
of  good  easy  country,  but  most  of  it  had  no  track  or  road  to  guide  our 
march. 

Matf  oth.—'FromL  above  Daaht-i-khak  we  crossed  the  plain  and  saw 
where  it  leads  down  to  the  lake  at  a  sort  of  bay.  Then,  crossing  a 
slight  water-parting,  we  found  that  we  were  in  a  basin  draining  to  the 
west,  and  in  the  distance  saw  a  lai'ge  expanse  of  blue  water ;  as  wo 
approached  this  proved  to  be  a  lake,  stretching  away  to  the  west. 

The  ironstone  had  now  disappeared  from  the  hills  ;  the  plain  to  the 
north-west  was  bounded  by  loft^'  mountains,  which  are  named  Roshan- 
Kuh,  and  at  the  foot  of  one  of  thorn  was  a  deep  green  patch  which 
is  said  to  be  a  clump  of  myrtle^  and  hence  the  name  of  a  village  hard  by, 
viz.  Deh-JIurt.  The  road  loads  over  a  perfectly  level  plain  to  Khush- 
khak.  Signs  of  old  habitations  were  to  be  seen  ;  but  all  was  now  waste, 
except  a  few  cornfields  irrigated  by  the  stream  that  waters  Deh-Murt. 
Distance  traversed,  27  miles. 

May  nth. — Khushkhak  lias  ceased  to  exist  as  a  village  ;  there  are  only 
some  ruins  remaining.  The  watercourses,  however^  were  utilised  by  a. 
large  encampment  of  nomads,  who  were  here  cultivating  poppy,  large 
flouriBhing  fields  of  which  lead  down  to  the  newly  discovered  lake, 
which  hero  goes  by  the  name  of  Lake  Nargis,  or  the  Lake  of  the  Nar- 
cissus. A  narrow  channel  was  pointed  out  to  us,  its  opening  almost 
hidden  by  a  small  stone  or  rock,  and  this  is  said  to  be  connected  with 
the  bay  of  Lake  Neris  that  mns  into  the  north  shore  opposite  Geloger. 

From  Khushkhak  fine  pasturage  is  fouud  along  the  side  of  the  lake 
right  away  to  Tasht,  a  small  village  situated  at  the  head  of  a  bay  whei-e 
there  are  groves  of  wild  myrtle  as  much  as  18  feet  high.  There  wero 
Iliy/it  encampments  between  Khushkhak  and  Tasht  and  a  ruinous  village 
named  Abadoh,  around  which  there  was  some  opium  cultivation.  The 
villagers  complained  bitterly  of  the  treatment  they  received  at  the 
hands  of  the  Iliyuts.  From  Abadeh  a  road  leads  to  Kawam  Ali,  a 
village  api>arently  of  considerable  size,  and  from  thence  it  is  said  to 
cross  a  kotul  between  Kuh-i-Khan  and  Eoshan-Kuh,  and  to  lead  to 
Shahr-i-Babok. 

Our  camp  was  pitched  at  the  head  of  the  jiretty  bay  of  Tasht.  The 
foreground  of  deep  grass  and  reeds,  the  intense  blue  of  the  wafer  of  the 
shallow  lagoon,  the  bold  headland  of  Meshi  iii  the  middle  distance,  and 
the  many  islands  or  rocks  scattered  about  in  the  blue  distance,  made  np 


i 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSU. 


143 


iovely  a  picture  as  it  has  been  my  fortune  to  see,  in  Persia,  at  all 

May  7th, — Our  way  lay  through  and  up  a  deep  gorge,  turning  the 
ebd  of  Knh-i-Khan.  From  the  top  of  the  gorge  the  junction  of  the  Lake 
Tbaht  with  Lake  Noris  was  maniftst.  The  road  again  descended  to  a 
pretty  bay  of  the  lake.  Tho  limestone  rocks  looked  just  such  as  the 
ancient  Persians  delighted  to  carve ;  the  situation  too  looked  most 
likely  for  antiquities,  but  alas,  we  saw  no  signs  of  inscriptions  or 
bas-reliefs ;  there  was,  however,  near  tho  margin  of  the  lake  a  raised 
rampart  in  the  form  of  a  ravelin,  jutting  out  from  the  low-lying  rocky 
hills;  its  antiquity  was  shown  by  the  size  of  a  tree  that  somehow 
_  (bund  nourishment  amongst  tho  limestone  rubble  of  which  it  was 
Tho  crest  of  tho  parapet,  so  to  speak,  must  have  been  at 
» SO  feet  above  tho  surrounding  country.  Tradition  says  this  was  a 
fire>temple ;  certainly  it  is  ill  situated  for  a  fort,  and  is  not  required  as  a 
IkTMkwater.  That  a  great  amount  of  labour  was  expended  in  its  con- 
etmction  is  certain  ;  tho  fact  of  the  point  of  the  angle  being  towards  the 
west  And  the  calm  scenery  of  tho  lake  being  voiy  impressive,  perhaps 
tend  to  the  supposition  that  this  was  an  old  holding  of  fire-worshippt^re. 

After  some  more  up-hill  work  as  our  road  left  the  lake,  wo  gradually 
deeoended  into  the  offshoot  of  the  Merv-dasht  which  strotohes  up  to 
ArstDJan.  This  valley  has  verj^  steep  sides  on  the  east,  is  tolerably 
thickly  populated,  and  is  all  under  cultivation.  We  encamped  at  a 
Tillage  named  Jemalabad,  where  our  advent  caused  considerable  ex- 
ciiement,  as  we  were  in  a  country  never  before  visited  by  Europeans, 
though  the  roads  from  Shiraz  to  Neris  liad  l>een  travelled  by  Captain 
(now  Sir  Oliver)  St.  John  and  Captain  (now  Colonel)  Lovott. 

2Iay  Slh. — From  Jemalabad  we  followed  tho  plain  to  its  junction 
with  tho  Merv-dasht*  The  muleteers  were  trying  their  l)e8t  to  take  our 
baggsge  by  a  short  cut,  via  Kafrad  to  Persepolis,  but  luckily  their 
design  was  discovert-d  iu  time  to  catch  them  up  and  change  theii*  course 
to  the  south,  and  our  determination  un  this  point  was  well  rewarded,  for 
on  r<»uiiding  the  end  of  tho  Persepolis  range,  which  is  here  lost  in  tho 
pliun,  wo  came  on  some  very  curit>us  remains.  First  we  saw  a  remark- 
Able  h©%vn  stone,  *.>  inches  by  12  inches  (width  of  ends),  and  depth  2  feet 
6  inches;  it  was  standing  6  fet^t  4  inches  perpendicular  out  of  the 
ground.  This  was  pitint*«d  out  to  us  as  the  heel-peg  to  which  Ali 
(ostened  his  horse,  whilst  300  yards  off  a  huge  boulder  with  a  hole  in  it 
served  for  tho  fastening  of  the  head-stall  of  the  gigantic  quadruped.  As 
^n  got  further  round  the  point  we  came  on  a  very  remarkable  rock 
cutting,  and  decided  at  once  to  halt  for  the  day  and  explore  thoroughly 
the  neighbourhood  of  Kadam-gab,  as  this  place  is  called  from  the  curious 
marks  in  tho  rocks,  which  are  said  to  be  the  foot-prints  of  Ali*s  horse. 
An  account  of  my  investigations,  with  plans  and  descriptions  of  Kadam- 
gab,  has  been  communicated  to  Sir  Henry  Hawlinsou,  and  the  plans 


lU 


SURVEYING  TOtJRS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


are  lithographod  on  tlie  margin  of  the  map  accompanying  tiiis  paper 
(p.  184). 

May  IHh. — A  hot  march  from  Kadam-gah  along  tho  south  elope  of  the 
PersepoUs  range  to  Chatak,  where  there  is  a  village,  cultivation,  and 
sweet  water;  we  had  passed  maiij'  salt  springs  between  Kadam-gah  and 
this  place.  From  Chatak  wo  Btill  skirted  the  limestone  hills  and  came 
on  Bome  Saseanian  sepulchres  cut  in  tho  face  of  tho  rock  some  15  feet 
above  the  level  of  tlie  plain.  These  rejoiced  our  eyes,  as  they  told  of 
Persepolis  near  at  hand,  and  at  length  we  reached  the  palace  of  XerxeR 
after  a  march  of  20  miles  in  all. 


i 


2.  From  I^ahan  io  Shuster, 

Xovcmher  Atlh — Dj'ulfa  to  Pul-i'^joargan,  lead  road,  10  miles.  W.  hy  S.—^l 
coraiiany  with  Mr,  W.  B.iring,  First  Secretary  to  the  British  Legation  at  Tehmn, 
I  left  Ispahan  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  road  through  the  Cakhtiari  country 
to  Shaster,  thence  to  visit  Dizful  and  Shush,  returmog  vi&  Ahwaz,  Mohammerah, 
and  Bushire,  to  Sliiraz. 

Our  first  stage  waa  adviae<lly  a  short  one.  Leaving  Ispahan  we  followed  a  road 
to  the  west  by  south  to  a  point  M'hero  it  crossed  tho  Zenilarud  river,  by  a  brick 
bridge,  at  the  village  of  Pul-i-wargan.  Here  we  decided  to  halt,  though  we  had 
only  come  10  miles  of  level  road,  as  the  start  had  been  late. 

Our  caravan  consiated  of,  properly,  tweke  midea  and  four  chavadars  or  muleteers, 
but  we  observed  that  a  thirteenth  mule  had  been  atlded,  and  that  a  small  boy  formed 
one  of  the  party.  Four  donkeys,  too,  were  added  for  the  bcaefit  of  the  chavadars. 
Mr.  Baring  and  I  had  a  couple  of  horses  each,  a  spare  pony  for  my  mirza,  and  a  nag 
for  Baring's  iiersonal  attenJant  made  up  our  stud.  Wo  had  two  useless  guides  who 
did  not  know  the  way.  The  rest  of  our  servants  were  mounted  on  the  mules,  and 
comprised  a  cook,  two  grooms,  tvpo  general  servants,  and  an  Armenian  boy  named 
Yusnf,  whose  business  was  to  carry  my  plane-table,  and  who  was  supposed  always 
to  be  at  ray  elliow.  He  managed  always  to  bo  a  quarter  of  a  mile  behind,  and 
always  to  do  tho  wrong  thing,  like  a  true  Armenian. 

5th. — Ftd-i-warrjau  to  Cfdnnini,  25|  mtfea,  good  road.  First  10  7nilia  S.  W^  hy  S., 
after  that  k'.  W. — Tho  road  lay  through  rice-fields  over  which  large  flocks  of  pigeons 
and  ducks  were  flying.  Wo  had  perpetually  to  cross  irrigation  channels  of  water  led 
from  the  Zendarud.  Villages  were  plentiful,  and  the  people  busy  winnowing  their  rice. 
Ten  miles  from  Pul-i-wargan  we  left  tho  rice-grounds,  and  conmieaced  the  ascent 
of  an  easy  slope  past  a  village  Bagh-i-wasch,  so  named  from  an  old  ioclosed  huoting- 
ground  of  Shah  Abbas,  remains  of  the  walls  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen.  Two 
miles  of  slope,  and  we  enter  the  small  pass  named  Gerdineh  Govpyseh,  at  the 
entrance  to  which  is  a  dirty  Utile  hut  used  as  a  custom-house.  From  it  a  road 
goes  north  to  Nejifabad  which  is  distant  12  miles.  Govpys<^h  is  so  called  from 
marks  on  the  hills  supposed  to  resemble  a  cow.  Fivo  miles  from  the  pass  by  a 
gentle  slope  we  again  reach  the  river  which  has  made  a  great  bead.  It  is  here 
flowing  east  to  west,  whilst  at  Pul-i-wargan  it  was  south-east  to  north-west.  The 
Govpyseh  rango  had  to  be  thus  turned.  It  divides  ITpper  Lenjaa  from  Lower 
Lenjan.  Unlike  Lower  Lcnjau,  where  tho  ricc-lields  are  of  wide  extent,  the  Upper 
is  a  valley  of  300  yartia  iu  width  with  high  banks.  All  beyond  these  banks  is 
desert,  between  them  are  rich  well-cultivated  rice-fields.  Villages  are  very  thickly 
scattere<l  along  the  bauks.  The  contrast  from  the  desert  above  to  this  fertile  strip 
with  itf  plane-trees,  dark-coloured  bushes,  rich  yellow  rice  crop,  and  the  sound  of  its 


I 


d 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA.  146 

XDjmy  waters,  was  very  striking.  The  villages  contain  numbers  of  pigeon-towers 
like  gigantic  pepper-boxes :  unlike  tbose  of  Ispahan  they  are  cylindrical  and  tall, 
and  but  fOT  the  cylinders  being  so  close  to  one  another  that  they  impinge,  a  row  of 
them  locks  very  like  a  row  of  smelting  furnaces. 

At  Pul-i-kala  the  road  crosses  the  rapid  river  which  is  everywhere  fordable,  bat 
the  waterconrses  leading  to  rice-fields  are  diflBcult  to  pass.  The  bridge  consists  of 
eight  arches,  one  of  which  has  fallen  in  and  is  replaced  by  a  most  rickety  arrange- 
ment of  piles.  The  right  bank  is  worse  even  than  the  left.  From  this  point  a  slight 
ascent  brought  us  to  the  village  of  Chirmini,  where  we  halted.  Distance  from  Pul-i- 
vaxgiui  25^  miles. 

6tk,— Chirmini  to  Qahuiri-rulch^  17  miles^  rough  road^  with  had  kotid^  9  miles 
W.hyS,  Then  8  miles  S.  by  TT.— Chirmini  consists  of  about  100 houses.  The  head- 
man or  khan  housed  us  well  and  was  exceedingly  friendly. 

On  quitting  we  began  to  ascend  the  slopes  of  the  hills  which  bound  the  right 
Umk  of  the  Zendarud ;  at  the  village  of  Liabeed  a  steep  zigzag  commences,  quite 
impaasable  for  guns,  as  it  nears  the  top  of  the  kotul  named  Tang-i-rukh.  This 
pus  over  the  hills,  6850  feet  high,  is  known  as  the  Gerdan-i-rukh  or  Pass  of  Rukh. 
The  ascent  took  us  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  the  view  from  the  top  is  over  desert 
and  rough  hummocky  ground  to  the  north  and  north-east ;  the  stream  of  the 
Zeodirud  being  scarcely  visible.  The'  descent  on  the  south-west  is  easy,  and  eight 
miles  further  on  is  the  village  of  Qah,u-i-rukh,  the  first  of  the  district  of  Chahar-mahal, 
and  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Ilkhani  or  chief  of  the  Bakhtiaris. 

Itkr-Qahu-i-rukli  to  Shelamzar^  25  miles.  Ko  diffiadties^  level  road  across 
ChahoMnalialf  then  slight  descent  to  Shelamzar ;  one  bad  ridge,  but  this  could  he 
firriKd— Qahu-i-rukh  has  about  300  inhabitants,  and  is  in  appearance  very  like  an 
Afgiian  yiliage  ;  in  fact  this  Chahar-mahal  country  is  very  like  portions  of  Pishin. 
There  seems  to  be  plenty  of  water,  villages  are  numerous  and  large,  and  the  plain  is  all 
under  caltivation.  We  counted  six  large  and  two  small  villages.  Our  road  to-day 
lay  iloQg  an  extensive  plain  extending  for  many  miles  to  the  north,  but  closed  by 
high  hills  to  the  south-east.  At  the  western  extremity  of  the  plain  is  the  village  of 
Tcff-koor  (alt.  6750  feet) ;  here  the  people  were  crushing  a  sort  of  vetch  on  their 
threshing-floors  for  winter's  use.  Leaving  Tor-koor  the  road  turns  south-east  down 
a  gradually  narrowing  valley  bounded  on  the  east  by  sandhills  and  on  the  west  by 
the  mountain  of  Jehan-bin,*  which  is  a  fine  mass  of  rock.  At  Shamsabad  is  a 
small  walled  village ;  the  valley  is  seen  to  be  occupied  by  a  stream,  and  in  this 
neighbourhood  is  one  of  the  most  elevated  of  the  sources  of  the  Kardn  river. 

The  stream  at  Shamsabad  (alt.  6743  feet)  is  10  feet  broad  and  three  feet  deep  at 
ordinary  times ;  it  is  bridged  between  the  mountain  Jehan-bin  and  Zangum  by  a 
new  bridge  of  10  arches  of  six  feet  span,  showing  that  a  good  amount  of  water-way  has 
to  be  allowed  in  time  of  flooil.  The  road  follows  the  river  through  a  narrow  valley. 
The  sides  of  the  mountains  are  scratched  for  sowing.  The  valley  opens  out  below 
the  village  of  Herajeh,  where  there  is  a  rough  stone  bridge  by  which  the  road  returns 
to  the  left  bank,  and  skirting  the  hills  for  a  few  miles,  having  left  the  stream,  a 
sharp  ridge  of  rock,  some  300  feet  in  elevation,  has  to  be  crossed  before  the  valley 
and  the  village  of  Shelamzar  are  reached.    This  ridge  could  be  turned. 

There  is  a  stream  flowing  past  Shelamzar  which  joins  the  one  from  Shamsabad 
and  the  two  combined  flow  north-west  for  a  short   distance  before  piercing  the 
mountains  surrounding  the  plateau  of  Ardall.    Height  of  Shelamzar  6743  feet. 
%(h. — Shelamzar  to  Ardall,   19 J   miles.     Very   bad;    difficult  pass  of  Zereh; 


*  •* Jehan-bin"  means   "a  sight  of  the   world,"   i.e.   that  the  mountain  is  so 
elevated  that  a  view  of  the  world  can  be  obtained  from  tho  top  of  it. 


146 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOU^fHERN  PERSIA, 


_  5  miha  S.,  remainder  S.W. — Leaviug  Slielamzar  ww  went  straiglit  to  the 
mmuitains  to  tlie  south,  and  in  &  very  lieavy  Bnowstorm  and  a  bitter  cold  wind 
CToened  the  Gerdan-i-Zerre  (alt.  9300  feet),  a  rough  and  very  steep  track  only 
passable  for  ninlejs,  and  blocked  even  for  them  in  winter.  1'be  descent  on  the 
south  side  is  not  difficult,  and  two  small  lakes  are  seen  on  the  left,  covcretl  with 
gulls  and  wild-fowL  One  lake  is  namod  Albolaki,  and  a  stream  from  it  waters 
the  village  of  Nagiin,  where  the  Ilkhani  has  a  house.  From  tiear  this  lake  the 
road  f<illow8  the  direction  of  the  ridge  it  has  crossed,  and  tlie  steep  way  is  between 
that  ridge  and  one  of  the  olfshoot  hills  that  runs  |wrallel  to  it.  The  open  plateau 
of  Ardall  is  thus  reached  by  a  stiff  descent,  and  tlie  view  from  above  is  a  striking 
one.*  The  configuration  of  the  ground  is  very  remarkable.  To  the  south-east 
is  a  mighty  mountain,  the  Kuh-i-kalah,  with  jwrpctual  snow,  having,  I  believe, 
an  elevation  of  12,000  or  14,000  feet.  IJetween  it  and  the  Kuh-i-»abz  range 
18  the  Tang-i-siah :  from  sonth-eaat  to  north-west  flows  the  second  tributary  that 
the  Karilu  gains  ou  its  left  bank.  To  the  south-west  is  the  mighty  mass  of  Mount 
Gerreh,  which  must  he  over  14,000  feet  in  height.  Between  this  last  and  Kuh-i-sabz 
the  Earilu  escjijHiS  from  the  valley  of  Ardall  through  tlie  tan^  or  gorge  of  Dopulan. 
Turning  one's  back  to  Tang-i-siah  ami  looking  north-west,  one  sees  the  valley  of 
the  Kanin  proper,  with  the  mountain  Zerre,  which  is  snid  to  be  higher  than  either 
Gerreh  or  Kalah.  Between  Mounts  Zerre  and  Gerreh  is  a  high  range  named  Kuh- 
i-dinar.t  Looking  north  is  the  comparatively  insignificant  range  crossed  by  thr 
G^rdan-i-Zerre,  and  through  it  is  seen  to  break  the  river  from  Shamsabad  and 
Chahar-mahal  and  it  joins  the  Kariin  here  in  the  plain  of  Ardall. 

I  hof*  by  the  above  description  to  give  some  idea  of  the  Alpme  scenery  that 
Burronuds  the  fastnesses  of  the  Bakhtiaria,  The  Ivarnn  at  Ardall  goes  !>}'  the  name 
of  the  Kuh-i-ning  river,  from  its  flawing  from  a  hill  of  peculiar-coloured  earth  which 
they  say  gives  a  tinge  to  the  water,  though  \vhen  I  firat  saw  it  at  Dupuhm  the 
stream  was  perfectly  clear.  Duubtk-sa,  however,  this  name  of  Kub-i-nmg  is  the 
origin  of  the  name  Karun.  At  Ardall,  rtcza  Kuli  Khan,  the  second  in  command,  so 
to  speak,  of  the  Bakhtiaris,  lias  his  headquarters,  and  has  built  a  double-storied  sort 
of  barrack,  the  roof  of  which  is  ornamented  with  enormous  ibex  horns.  The 
rkhani's  house  is  at  a  villnge  named  Naguu,  from  whirh  a  maguiliceut  view  of  the 
valley  is  obtained.  Water  is  brought  to  it  by  artificial  channels  from  the  lake 
Albolaku  ITie  lUtbaui'a  hut-wcfttker  quaTtere  at  Chakahor  we  did  not  see ;  btit 
they  have  been  visited  and  described  by  Englisloneu  already. 

Qth. — We  are  still  in  Ardall  plain ;  the  plateau  of  Ardall  is  devoid  of  trees,  though 
the  lower  spurs  of  the  Kuh-i-sabz  are  covered  with  o:ika.  The  level  ]jart  yf  the  plateau 
showed  marks  of  cultivation,  but  now  uf  course  was  deserted,  as  all  the  Iliydts  hnd 
marched  south  for  the  winter.  The  huts  clustered  under  the  hills  looked  dismal  and 
deserted.     The  snow-fall  here  in  winter  is  described  as  tremendous. 

loth. — Ardali  to  Dopulan^  7  miles.  Very  had  i-oad^  at  one  place  a  dtscettt  of 
1000  fut  almost  precipiioua;  remainder^  4  7ni7c«,  altmg  river^  very  had.    S, — 


• 


I 


*  Prora  Ardall  thero  is  u  ro«l  tu  Diiful  vii'i  Bazuft ;  it  ia  the  some  distance  to  the 
plflina  by  it  as  by  the  one  we  follow,  but  far  more  difficult  in  winter,  owing  to  tlie  high 
eleTation  it  crosses.  In  fuct,  it  is  eaid  to  be  impassable  at  that  season.  iJukbtiari 
nomad*  doubtless  follow  it  in  their  migration,  but  this  I  think  is  bt?cttu»o  it  k'ads  more 
directly  to  the  green  plains  near  Dizful,  and  that  iiy  it  no  imasrtgo  of  the  Kurun  is 
required,  as  it  keeps  to  the  north-west  of  tho  river.  The  road  was  shown  to  me  at 
Ardall  going  mther  north  of  east.    Tiio  stagea  are  givtii  by  Mr.  Macken^i«. 

t  Not  the  Kuh-i-dinar,  said  to  be  19,00U  feet,  visited  by  Captain  Durand.  That  is 
in  the  Kashgui  cuuntry. 


I 


Ardall,  \vhcre  Abbas  Kuli  Khan,  sod  of  BeKa  Kali  Khan,  had  hospitably 
ua.    Crossing  the  plateau  of  Ardall  to  the  south  we  descended  into  the  deep- 

gorgs  of  the  Tang-i-sioh  river,  which  flows  at  a  depth  of  lOQO  feet  below  the 
lihtgMi,  and  lies  lietweea  ]:)eri)cQdicular  cMs  of  fine  limestone  and  conglomerate. 
AktiM  foot  of  the  clil&,  and  wherever  there  is  holding  gruund,  oaks,  wdi,  and 
plUmlitou  are  plentiful.  A  vine  with  leaves  like  a  graj^e  vine,  but  fruit  like  the 
•Idcrbtny,  climbs  over  the  rtKiks.  Wild  almond,  clematis,  and  willow,  as  well  as 
(3aikH  are  oommon.  After  winding  about  for  some  two  mile^s  at  the  bottom  of  tlie 
^of^BC*  ""TO  reach  the  picturesquely  situated  village  of  Dopulan,*  on  the  left  bank  of 
iha  riT«r. 

Joat  below  Dopuhin  the  river  of  the  Tang-i-siah  falls  into  the  Kuh-i-rung, 
fcn&ing  us  before  stateil  the  second  tributary  '>n  its  left  bank.  The  former  is 
Ifaimed  by  a  wicker  bridge,  the  latter  by  one  of  brick  lately  built  by  the  llkhaui, 
al  tbd  point  where  the  river  emerges  from  a  deep  gloomy  gorge.  The  bridge  is 
bur  serviceable,  and  sjians  the  stream  in  one  large  and  one  small  arch, 
IflQgth  say  20  yards. 

llth. — Dopulan  to  JJilisat^  19  miles.  Rough  road  and  trifing  from  fretjutnt 
moeMt»  and  descents.  First  S.,  then  5  miles  S.E, — Leaving  Dopulan — where,  by 
Iba  way,  the  people  seemed  wretchedly  poor,  and  supplies,  except  lirewoo<l,  were  very 
•on*— wo  cross  first  the  wicker  and  then  the  brick  bridge,  and  aaceud  the  side  of 
tiie  moontain,  which  is  a  north-west  spur  uf  Muunt  Gerreh.  Our  rood  was  rough  in 
plaeasy  though  as  a  rule  good,  and  led  through  thjckiah  oak  forest  with  a  steady 
It  to  an  elevation  of  7850  feet,  where  we  crossed  the  water-parting,  a  saddle-back 
the  Gerreh  and  Arman  mountains,  and  descended  by  a  steep  track  to  some 
cultivated  ground.  The  forest  here  js  of  oaks  -10  feet  high  and  li  yard  girth  (alt* 
6350  feet).  From  the  patch  of  cultivation  the  descent  is  tUrouf^h  a  narrow  gorge 
with  precipitous  aides.  The  road  is  rocky,  and  goes  downwards,  but  only  to  again 
ma  ateeply  to  6600  feet,  tu  again  descend  to  6400  feet,  when  it  once  luoro  rises  to 
6750  feet,  then  crossing  the  saddle  of  a  spur  from  the  Arman  mountain  it  descends 
into  a  gorge  which  leads  down  into  the  valley  *.>i  the  Hilisat  stremn  (alt.  here  5000), 
which  we  followetl  to  where  the  Ilkhaui's  camp  was  pitched  on  the  left  bauk  (alt. 
4850  feet). 

The  Hilisat  stream  reminded  me  of  Cashmere,  with  its  little  tcrnoces  of  rice- 
idida  on  either  aide,  its  tine  plane-trees  and  the  forest-clad  mountains  rising  steep 
from  the  valley. 

Vtth. — Hilisat  to  Rudlnr  river,  15  miles.  Not  difficult  till  about  Hudbar  river, 
wkoY  a  precipitous  Uujf  has  to  be  dcscetided.  W.  by  »s*, — At  8.30  we  left  camp, 
sooompanied  by  two  retainers  charged  to  see  to  our  being  properly  treated  whilst 
in  the  Bakhtiari  country,  and  well  they  executed  (heir  duty. 

From  Hilisat  a  steep  mountain  is  ascended  (alt.  G900  feet),  another  ofTahoot 
from  the  mighty  Gerreh.  It  has  to  be  crossed,  and  its  southern  slope  descended  to  the 
^ralley  of  the  Rndliar  stream.  The  top  of  this  offshoot  was  rolling  country,  covered 
with  fine  oaks ;  the  road  good  and  oj«n.  Hero  and  there  the  nomads  were  tilling 
ihm  ground  under  the  forest  trees,  or  shaking  down  the  acorns  which  they  pound  and 
mix  with  flour  to  eke  out  their  bread.  The  springs  were  brackish.  The  view  looking 
iottth  and  west  was  very  fine.  On  the  left  was  the  Kariiu  deep  down  in  precipitous 
gorges;  with  here  and  there  tributaries  flowing  into  it  from  the  west  from  the 
&shgai  country,  whicii  showed  more  open  vales  than  the  one  we  were  in.  Far 
away  nortli-west  is  a  snow-capjied  mountain,  which  it  seems  to  me  miL««t  be  the 
Kuh-i-dinar  of  tlie  Kashgais.    Looking  south,  the  Kuh-i-maugasht,  with  its  long 


'  Two  Bridge  Place."    Altitude  4050  feet 


148 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


ridg«  snow-capped  and  rugged,  shows  as  yet  no  way  ont  for  ut  to  the  plains.  On 
the  right  is  Gerreh,  with  its  massive  head  frowning  on  the  Kndbar,  which  flovr* 
along  its  southern  liase.  A  few  juiles  furthtr,  and  we  are  on  the  toji  of  the  almost 
precipitous  cliff  that  fonns  the  left  hank  of  the  Uudhiir  Btream.  Here  the  view  is 
very  extraordinary,  llie  ridge  or  cliff  on  which  we  stand  (alt.  6725  feet)  ia  of  grey 
limestone,  which  is  set  off  by  bufr-ct>loured  dead  grass  and  a  peculiar  kind  of  thistle, 
which  fills  every  comer  where  the  rock  does  not  come  to  the  aurface,  giving  the 
appearance  of  a  huff  plush  carpet  crumpled  over  Ibe  irregularities  of  the  mountaia 
side. 

The  descent  into  the  Rudbar  valley  was  fearfully  rough,  nothing  but  mules 
and  carefully-led  Persian  horses  could  accomplish  it  without  accident ;  it  is  quite  a« 
had  as  the  Kanii\rij  Kotul  on  the  Bushire  road,  hut  fully  twice  as  Ion?.  A  road  here 
would  Hideed  be  difficult,  nod  for  wheel  traffic  imposjsible.  It  remains  to  be  seen 
whether  such  a  road  couid  be  made  further  up  the  Rudbar  at  Shaleel,  where  there  ia 
said  to  be  a  bridge.  The  Iludbar  was  eaftily  ford  able  150  yards  in  width  and  24  feet 
deep;  it  is  a  rapid  and  plcturesfjue  stream.  We  encamjxjd  on  its  banks.  (Alt. 
about  3080  feet.) 

lath. — Ihidbar  river  to  Dek-i-diz,  12  milei.  l!'  Verj/  dij^cuU  ascent,  but 
(Jeactnt  in  to  Deh-i-diz  easi/. — Our  road  lay  rip  between  the  marl  masses,  and  was 
rough,  steep,  and  slippery.  We  avoidetl  the  Shaleel  road,  which  must  be  better  than 
the  one  we  traversed,  as  Jlr.  Mackeozie,  who  followed  it,  writes  thus: — "  Shaleel  to 
Deh-i-diz,  altitude  about  5150  feet,  easy  and  gradual  descent  to  a  main  feeder  of 
the  Kariin  at  about  3250  feet,  crossed  by  a  wicker  bridge  across  a  fissure  in  the 
rocks;  dangerous  crossing  for  animals;  old  bridge  above  in  niins;  thence  ascend 
to  5850.*'  • 

Now,  although  Mr,  Mackenzie's  deacription  of  roads  is  for  the  most  part  too 
couleur  de  rose,  still  evidently  the  route  viS.  Shaleel  is  the  beaten  track,  and  is  much 
better  than  the  one  we  took  via  Rudbar.  On  the  high  ground  (alt.  6400  feet)  the 
road  is  g;och1,  jiad  descends  by  an  easy  gradient  to  Deh-i-<liz  (alt.  5221  feet).  At 
Deh-i-diz  there  is  an  old  fort,  roughly  built  of  unhewn  stone  with  mortar.  Around 
are  nomad  huts  and  a  few  houses  of  poor  people.  A  large  open  upland  is  in  front 
of  the  village,  ilotted  as  usual  with  oaks  and  patches  of  cultivation.  A  party  of 
Seyuds  were  here  awaiting  to  welcome  the  llklmni,  who  was  to  arrive  the  next  day. 
They  were  by  no  means  friendly,  and  expressed  a  desire  to  shoot  us  in  the  bearing 
of  my  ilirza,  who  showed  much  pluck,  and  seizing  one  threatened  to  report  him  to 
the  llkhaui  on  his  arrivnl.     The  ordinary  [teople  were  friendly  enough. 

lith, — Ihh'i'tliz  to  Go<l-{-Ilahttaky  lOJ  milrs.  J'Jastj  roiui  descefidiny  t?ie  whale 
uxiy,  W. — From  T>eh-i-diz  we  deacetided  steadily  down  a  watercourse  to  the  banks  of 
the  Karun,  a  distance  of  three  farsakhs  through  wooded  country,  llie  ;;uidts  had 
preceded  us  and  got  a  raft  of  inflated  skins  ready  to  ferry  our  baggage  across.  The 
river  here  (alt.  2480  feet)  was  deep,  and  flowing  say  five  miles  an  hour,  and  at  this 
season  40  yards  in  width.  Its  banks  showed  marks  of  a  rise  of  10  or  12  feet  during 
spring  floods,  wlien  tlie  width  would  be  60  yards. 

Down  stream  are  the  rnins  of  an  old  bridge,  according  to  Schiadler's  notes.  We 
did  not  see  them,  but  lieard  of  them.  It  would  not  be  difficult  to  rebuild  this  bridge. 

Our  horses  and  baggage  animals  had  to  be  unloaded  and  their  snddles  taken  off,  and 
then  swam  across.  This  situation  of  God-i-Balutak  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  flying 
bridge,  and  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  the  working  of  such  a  Imdgo  if  a  good  stout 


•  This  must  be  the  brld-e  mentioned  by  8chin<llor  ns  "  above  the  present  Pul-i- 
Amarol,"  and  the  Itudbur  moat  bo  his  Bazufl  rivfr,  mle  "  Notes  on  a  Journey  in  South- 
West  Persia,  1877-8,"  R.  A.  Society  Papers  for  1880,  p.  14. 


SURVETINQ  TOURS  IK  SOUTHERN  PERSIA.  149 

boftt  were  bailt  for  the  purpose.  Laden  mules  could  then  make  the  passage  in  a 
Um  minutes.  The  left  hank  requires  a  road  made  to.  the  water's  edge,  as  it  is  pre- 
cipttoos  for  a  height  of  50  feet.  Our  thirteen  mules  with  ten  men  and  three  horses 
took  one  and  a  half  hour  crossing. 

Itth. — Qod-i'Balutak  to  Mal-i-mir,  24  mtles.  Road  capable  of  improvement^ 
itd  vmild  he  costly.  W.  by  N. — Left  camp  7 .  15  a.m.  and  did  not  get  into  camp  on 
the  **Tepe''  on  the  Mal-i-mir  plain  till  5.30  p.m.  The  road  rises  gently  from  the 
riTer  Imnk  and  is  good ;  it  makes  for  a  gorge,  and  passes  through  it,  following  a 
valley  between  the  south-east  end  of  the  Mangasht  range  and  an  outlying  spur  of 
that  mountain ;  the  Kariin  river  bed  is  here  left  for  good.  The  road  soon  descends 
again,  and  is  rough  for  four  miles  to  where  it  enters  a  watercourse  leading  down  to 
tbe  KarJiu.  It  ascends  the  watercourse,  which  is  now  nearly  dry,  though  pools  in  it 
contun  fish  nine  inches  in  length.  The  course  is  little  better  than  a  cleft  in  the 
grey  cherty  compressed  clay  rocks,  which  are  here  almost  vertical. 

Some  way  up  this  gorge  a  side  gulch  is  followed  to  the  left,  and  a  curious  old 
paved  way,  the  Kah-i-sultani,  leads  to  the  open  plain  above  (alt.  3880  feet).  Then 
a  very  difficult  piece  of  road  is  encountered,  as  a  descent  has  to  be  made  over  the 
iaoe  of  a  limestone  hill  rounded  in  form,  and  to  all  appearance  smooth  until  reached, 
when  the  terrible  rifts  and  rubble  stones  that  break  up  its  surface  prove  to  form  one 
of  the  worst  bits  of  road  we  have  yet  encountered.  A  vray  would  have  to  be  built 
up  this  face,  and  for  wheel  traffic  this  would  cost  a  large  sum  of  mouey.  There  is 
no  avoiding  this  hill  nor  any  of  the  gorges  we  have  traversed  to-day.  The  Mal-i-mir 
plain  once  reached,  all  is  easy  to  the  **  Tepe.**  The  altitude  of  the  plain  is  2930  feet. 
Whilst  we  were  on  the  Mal-i-mir  plain  I  was  met  by  Sultan  Khan,  cousin  of  the 
Ilkhani,  a  fine-looking  pleasant  fellow,  who  took  mo  across  to  his  tents  pitched  on 
the  site  of  some  ancient  sculptures  on  the  north  side  of  the  plain.  One  huge  block 
of  stone  stands  40  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  near  a  break  in  the  strata, 
fonning  a  sort  of  hay  or  depression  in  the  rock ;  on  it,  in  life  size,  is  in  low  relief  the 
image  of  an  ancient  Persian  in  the  act  of  supplication,  standing.  Behind  him  are 
tiers  of  small  figures  backing  him  up.  The  relief  is  so  low,  and  the  rock  so  grey, 
that  the  figures  cannot  be  seen,  unless  caught  in  the  right  light  and  at  the  right 
distance.  In  the  bay  another  block  has  rows  of  small  figures  in  tiers  as  in  Egyptian 
sculptures,  the  third  block  has  a  single  figure.  Further  up  into  the  bay  and  on  the 
left-hand  side  as  you  face  its  end,  cut  in  the  side  of  the  rocky  hill,  is  a  tablet 
with  figures  in  bas-relief.  It  is  about  2  feet  6  inches  square.  On  it  appears  the 
figure  of  a  man  evidently  offering  up  a  sacrifice,  as  before  him  is  a  pile  of  three  sheep 
without  heads.  Underneath  him  are  smaller  figures  leading  fresh  victims.  The 
background  of  the  figures  is  covered  with  cuneiform  inscriptions.  I  saw  on  this 
tablet  vmtten  in  pencil,  the  names  A.  Layard,  1841,  W.  E.  Loftus,  1852,  and  there- 
fore did  not  take  impressions  of  the  inscriptions,  thinking  they  must  be  well  known. 
A  gallop  of  four  miles  across  the  plain  brought  me  to  the  tepe  past  the  remains  of  an 
old  earthwork.  The  tepe  is  formed  by  the  accumulation  of  ruins  of  ancient 
buildings. 

IGth, — Mal-i-mir  to  Kaieh-i-Tul,  15 J  miles.  Good  road.  8.  by  E,—Wo  are 
now  at  Hal-i-mir  and  fairly  out  of  the  mountains,  though  there  is  still  some 
hilly  country  to  encounter,  yet  it  is  all  of  one  description,  viz.  gypsum  and 
marl,  or  "gatch  match"  as  the  Persians  say.  Till  now,  in  crossing  the  numerous 
moxmtidn  ridges  from  Ardall,  we  have  come  on  a  rather  varied  geological  formation. 
Up  to  that  place  the  mountains  were  of  the  usual  shapes  and  of  the  limestone  so 
common  in  Persia.  Mortar  was  burnt  just  wherever  it  was  wanted.  In  some  places 
the  limestones  were  very  close-grained,  and  took  a  polish  like  marble.  At  Dopulan 
were  cllfis  of  conglomerate  and  of  fine-grained  limestone,  like  that  of  Persepolis.  After 


150 


SL'RVETING  TOUHS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


Hili«it  more  ccmgloiiierutc.     The  rocks  almost  all  have  ontorope  to  the  south,  th< 
this  is  notably  not  the  case  at  Dopninn  nnd  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rudbar.   We 
but  one  lake,  viz.  that  to  the  east  of  the  two  shown  on  the  map.    The  other  raay  be 
visible  after  heavy  rains,  hut  did  not  exist  in  December  1881. 

At  Mal-i-mir  we  began  to  see  birds,  such  as  black  and  white  king^fishers,  francolin, 
gpur^wingcd  ploverH, — common  Western  Asian  and  Levantine  birds,  etraggling  aa 
far  as  India;  the  haft  bhai,  Chattarhwa  Iluttoni,  &c.,  &c.  Among  the  Bakhtiari 
hills,  though  birds  were  not  plentiful,  we  found  choughs,  Tavens,  crows,  mftgpies, 
jays,  with  more  white  in  tlieir  wings  than  the  English  variety  ;  long-tailed  tits,  and 
lesser  tita,  and  cole  tita,  pied  wagtails,  and  the  yellow  variety;  tlie  green  and 
the  St.  Johannis  wotxlpeckers,  nuthatchca,  the  grey  smoky-coloured  thrush,  lark*, 
chafSnchea,  and  common  buntings,  Ibex,  markhor,  and  bears  are  found  on  the 
mountain.^,  as  well  as  the  wild  sheep.  On  the  morning  of  the  16tlli  we  went  to  the 
south  side  of  the  plain  to  a  break  in  the  mountain  somewhat  similar  to  the  one 
I  visited  yesterday  on  the  north,  except  that  the  bay  ended  in  a  cavern.  Above 
the  cavern  are  Bome  tablets  of  sculptures  in  has-rolief;  the  one  to  the  right,  or 
north,  has  three  figures  in  the  attitude  nf  making  a  petition.  They  have  a  turban 
of  i>ecuUar  shape.  The  next  panel  contains  people  in  the  attitude  of  attentive 
servants,  and  they  have  hats  somewhat  in  shape  resembUng  our  English  helmets. 
The  people  here  have  remarkctl  this,  and  thought  we  should  be  able  to  read  the 
cuneiform  inscriptions  at  sight,  which  they  call  Khat-i-feringhi,  or  European  writing. 
They  were  much  disappointed  to  find  we  knew  nothing  about  the  writing,  and  to 
hear  that  the  people  wlio  wrote  them  were  the  Persians',  not  our,  forefathers.  The 
king  or  ptitontate,  the  central  figure  of  the  group,  has  d<>\ibtless  been  washed  away, 
as  his  position  is  now  occupied  by  a  watercourse,  spilling  over  the  face  of  the  rock 
in  time  of  rain.  In  the  entrance  to  a  sort  of  cave — not  the  main  cave — are  two 
figiiraq,  lnoth  much  worn  and  defaced,  and  over  and  around  one  of  them  are  cuneiform 
inacriptions  in  letters,  of  elements  tho  same  size  as  those  of  yesterday,  but  they  are 
much  defaced  by  age. 

Leaving  the  ancient  cavern,  we  quitted  Mal-i-mir  plain  at  its  south-east  comer 
by  a  valley  with  many  tall  reeds  scattered  about,  then  sharp  to  the  south  of  a  valley 
between  rocky  hills,  but  for  which  rocky  hills  and  the  absence  of  a  stream  down  it, 
it  would  be  like  an  English  park. 

Tall  grass,  now  somewhat  dry,  surrounds  the  stately  oaks  which  are  dotted  here 
and  there.  Cattle  grazing  under  some  of  them  add  to  the  effect,  though  the  marks 
of  porcupine  recall  the  East  to  our  mind.  The  road  emerges  from  this  valley  on  to 
a  Vmrreu,  stony  plain,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  seen  a  barrow  or  tepe,  crowned  by 
the  fort  of  Kaleh-i-Tul.  This  is  the  stronghoU  of  a  certain  Mirza  Aga  Khan,  who 
hxiks  on  the  llkhani  as  his  suzerain,  though  be  is  more  or  less  independent  of  that 
chief.  This  Khan's  subjects  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kariin  are  called  Chahalang, 
and  were  formerly  at  deailly  feud  with  the  Haft-lang,  or  those  who  dwell  on  the 
right  bank ;  but  the  llkhani  has  altered  aU  this. 

Mirza  Aga  Khan  is  repairing  his  fort,  which  is  built  in  two  tiers,  that  to  the 
north  being  the  lower. 

l7th.—KaIehH-Tid  to  Sarasia  or  Bud-zerd,  13  miles.  Ltvd  road,  except  one 
dijfficuli  lit  otter  gatch  hiUs^  ivhkh  coidd  le  made  good.  S. — We  leave  the  fort 
of  Kaleh-i-Tul  and  go  south-west  over  the  barren  plain ;  crossing  a  low  spur  we 
descend  into  another  portion  of  the  plain,  still  with  no  signa  of  cultivation.  On 
the  far  side  we  come  to  a  poor,  small  village,  where  there  is  rice  cultivation  on 
the  banks  of  a  stream,  and  the  wild  myrtle  clumps  look  freah  and  handsome. 
We  leave  the  ruins  of  Bagh-i-malek  or  Man-zanik  on  our  left,  end  following 
the  couTBe  of  the  Ab-i-zerd  and  crosBing  it  we  go  through  a  pass  in  some  low  gatch 


bills,  ami  then  south  fur  three  fareakhs  over  a  vile  road  to  Sarasia, 
Just  before  rcacbing  this  lliyiU  village  we  recmesed  the  Ab-i-zerd, 
flueh  Is  ben*  20  feet  wide  and  3  feet  deep,  and  tarns  several  miUs.  There  are  some 
ptlches  of  rice  cultivation  on  its  banks. 

I8rt. — Rud'zerd  to  Goorffeer^  20  mileB.  jVJ?. — From  Rud-zerd  to  Goorgeer, 
»lcm  fix  fiinsakliB,  there  is  a  aliglit  rise  tlirotigh  the  low  lulls  of  roughiah  gotch 
tiitva^h  wliichwe  are  dom-  marchingi,  s^imewhat  north  by  east.  To  the  sonth  the 
pjimtry  is  a  humniocky  mass  of  livpsum  bills.  We  cross  the  upper  courses  of 
Kr«Tii  streams  draining  down  from  the  watershed  of  the  Kuh-i-asmari,  whicli 
Initt  G<X)rgeer  extends  to  Rud-zerd,  thoijf;h  it  is  only  near  the  fonner  place  that  the 
hiUiCfcio*  the  elevation  which  makes  it  a  landmark  all  over  the  southern  country. 

'fliP  streams  are  sluggish,  with  deep  jiools  cut  out  of  the  gypsum  beds ;  fish 
U  iaches  long.  The  n>ad  was  not  Imd  to  the  highest  point,  but  beyond  this  to 
Oooq^  it  la  stony  and  terribly  rough  (alt.  1480  feet). 

Idtt. — Goorgeer  to  Vie  open  valley  at  a  place  named  Skikarah,  14  miles.  S.E. — 
ri(iOf]e«r  i»  a  wretched  phice  in  an  open  jwitch  amongst  the  gatch  hills  and  at  the 
(ciot  of  tiie  bare  Kuh-i-asmari ;  the  jieople  are  Seyuds,  and  consequently,  of  course, 
inhospitable.  The  crops  here  and  there  kn^k  quite  insufficient  to  support  the 
|o^tion  who  refused  lK)th  to  sell  and  to  give  us  anything.  We  crossed  a  sulphurous 
iiftsm  which,  apparently  coming  from  the  direction  of  Mal-Umir,  pissos  at  the 
nflrtii-flist  of  Goorgeer.  Despite  the  noxious  taste  of  the  water,  rice-fields  flourish 
on  it»  Ijaoks  which  we  follow  t*i  Tembi,  where,  not  lieiug  Seyuds,  the  people  are 
dtil  mil  at  length  supply  us  with  a  guide.  A  small  stream  of  frealj  water  falls  into 
ihe  falpburous  river,  and  by  its  Ijank  we  bafl  brejikfast. 

There  is  scime  cultivated  ground  about  Tembi,  after  leaving  which  we  see  no 
cultivation  till  we  reach  Sinister.  Our  road  recrosse«l  the  sulphur  river  and  tumetl 
due  Jtwtli  for  two  miles.  Then  quittuis:  the  ncii:lil>ourhoo<l  of  the  river  east  by  south 
wr  we  in  gypsum  hills  for  the  renwiiuiler  of  tbe  day's  nmrch,  only  descending  at 
iiigbtfoll  by  «  ven,'  bad  zigxt^  into  a  lir<iad  open  valley,  througli  which  a  tributary 
uJ  ibe  Kariin  flows.  This  also  is  brackish,  but  some  just  drinkable  water  is  reached 
AtiMpot  named  Shikarab  (sweet  water),  1  supptjse  with  the  idea  of  comparison,  for, 
a*  I  have  said,  the  water  is  only  just  drinkable  and  tastes  of  naphtha.  We  slept  in 
tliB  open  under  a  konar  tree,  the  night  being  warm  and  Imlray.  Tljere  were  of 
cnuw  no  supplies,  but  firewood  plentiful  owing  to  the  numerous  konar  trees  dotted 
iluiot  in  a  most  picturesque  manner, 

20M. — Shthirah  to  ShuMcr,  30  miles^  fjood  road^  level.  N.^V. — We  started 
licfore  tlaylight  as  we  had  a  thirty-mile  st^ge  into  Shuster.  All  the  rooming 
we  were  marching  down  the  oi>cu  vale,  In^unded  on  the  north  by  the  plateau  of 
sypaum  we  oroBsc*d  yesterday,  and  on  the  south  by  a  ridge  of  sandstone  which 
nioaiDgcast  and  west  divides  this  valley  from  the  plain  of  Ram-Hormuz.  Every 
now  and  then  the  road  crosses  the  brackish  stream,  and  the  junction  of  the  Gcxtrgeer 
itrcsm  is  aeen  to  tlie  north-east,  Tliero  are  ruins  showing  that  this  valley  was 
•onnerly  pe«3pled.  W'e  halted  for  breakfast  as  our  road  entered  the  sandstone  hills 
titi  ik'  south  ;  the  sjiriogs'  water  still  brackish  and  barely  drinkable.  Wo  were 
liirected  along  the  ridge  which  dies  out  as  it  approaches  Shuster,  only  to  crop  out  in 
:i  bold  bluff  of  sandstone ;  it  presents  the  most  remarkable  instances  of  false  bedding 
I  have  ever  seen.  Amongst  these  hills  were  well-built  masonry  retaining- walls, 
ally  intended  either  for  the  storage  of  water  or  to  terrace  the  hill-side,  llie 
at  present  is  level  with  the  topa  of  the  rctaining-walls,  which  show  skill 
and  labour  far  in  adx'anoo  of  those  of  the.  present  inhabitants,  who  now  entirely 
neglect  their  country.  Darkness  had  set  in  before  we  reached  the  town,  and  we  had 
to  flounder  about  amongst  the  way.worn  slabs  of  rock,  making  for  the  light*  that 


J 


152 


SURVEYIXG  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


twinkled  in  the  distance.  At  last  we  found  nuraekcs  on  the  lunks  of  a  rapid 
atreain  witli  the  roar  ui  a  cascade  souudinj*  in  our  CAva.  We  discover  a  native  in  a 
hut  who  conducts  us  by  a  l>uilt  road  across  the  fiootl  and  through  the  unrrow  streets 
of  Sliuster  to  the  castle,  where  rooms  are  placed  at  our  disposal. 

HorTE.—Comparison  n/  Routes  from  Jrpdhan  to  the  Sea. — ^The  ordinary  roHte 
from  Ispahan  to  the  aea,  now  followed  by  caravans.  Is  viii  Shiraz  to  BuKliire. 
Along  thi«  route  caravanserais  are  built  at  convenient  distances  and  supplies  are 
furthcoming. 

From  Ispahan  to  Shiraz,  distance  31*3  miloa,  there  is  little  or  no  engineering 
difljcuity,  and  with  a  comparatively  small  oxiienditurc  of  capital  a  good  carriage 
road  could  be  made.  Beyond  Shiraz  the  road  isj  in  places  cxecmhle,  and  scarcely 
passable  for  laden  mules ;  hut  it  is  ca|mble  of  vast  improvement,  and  a  carriage  rood 
could  follow  its  general  direciion. 

The  di«tanco  from  Shiraz  to  Bushire  i*  lUG  miles.  Along  the  Bakhtiari  route, 
vil  Ardall  and  Mal-i-mir,  there  are  no  caravanserais  of  any  sort,  no  bridges  over 
several  of  the  rivers,  and  in  winter,  when  the  nomad  population  moves  bodily  to  the 
Shusler  plains,  there  would  be  no  suppUea. 

However,  supposing  the  Kariin  river  were  opened  for  navigation  to  Shuster,  and 
ike  necessary  canal  dug  out  at  Ahwa/.,  go«^jds  could  be  unshipped  within  275  miles  of 
Ispahan;  that  is,  244  miles  nearer  than  via  Bushire,  for  it  is  519  miles  from  Bushire 
to  Ispahan.  Still  the  difficulties  tu  be  met  with  in  these  275  miles  are  very  great. 
It  has  beeu  suggested  that  a  light  railway  might  run  over  them ;  but  this  is  in  my 
opinion  out  of  the  question,  as  the  cost  of  the  undertaking  would  bo  so  enormous, 
the  valley  of  the  Kariin  and  its  tributaries  having  such  precipitous  sides  tliat  it 
would  often  be  necessary  to  carry  the  road  in  galleries  cut  in  the  hill-sides  for  miles. 
The  bridging,  too,  would  be  tremendous;  and  if  tho  line  were  carried  out  at  riglit 
angles  to  the  series  of  ridges  that  lie  between  the  plateau  of  Chahar-raahal  and  Mai- 
i-mir,  the  liue  would  be  little  better  than  an  alternation  of  tunnels  and  viaducts,  I 
think  the  railway  engineer  would  prefer  to  take  his  liue  from  Shnstcr  via,  Behbehan 
to  the  Ardakhau  valley,  lie  would  find  no  stupendous  obslacles  this  way,  and 
would  have  wormed  himself  to  the  roof  of  Central  Persia  without  crossing  one  of 
the  ridgcH  (hat  guard  it :  ho  would  tap,  too,  its  most  fertile  plains  and  include 
Shiraz.  1'he  7200  feet  kotul  that  lies  between  Ardakhan  and  Shiraz  has  no  difiS- 
culties  or  gradients  that  a  "  Fairlie'i ''  engine,  such  as  is  used  between  Poti  and 
Tifiis,  would  not  surmount.  Or  I  should  recommend  the  trial  of  the  valley  of  the 
Shahpur  river  from  Bushire  to  Notiun,  where  a  tunnel  would  lead  through  to  the 
river  Shur  or  Fahtyun,  which  runs  from  Ardakhan, 

But  to  return  to  the  roads.  The  difiiculties  of  the  Bakhtiari  route  are  con- 
sidered 80  great  at  Dizful  that  all  caravans  for  Ispahan  go  via  Burojird,  and  it  might 
be  best  to  take  them  from  Shiister  via  Dizful  and  Burojird  to  Ispahan,  though  the 
distance  this  way  must  be  at  least  350  miles,  from  Shnster  probably  380.  Unfortu- 
nately I  have  not  seen  this  route,  so  cannot  speak  of  its  merits ;  however,  water  is 
said  to  be  plentiful,  and  the  road  not  bad.  Certainly  this  is  the  case  from  Burojird  .^ 
to  Ispahan.  Tlie  diflioulties  of  the  Shiraz-Bushire  road  are  all  within  a  distance  of 
03  miles,  viz.  from  Daliki  to  the  Karagatch  river ;  those  of  the  Bakhtiari  route  are 
within  the  distance  of  117  miles  from  the  plain  of  Mal-i-mir  to  the  borders  of 
Chakar-mahaU 

The  Shiraz  road  is  certainly  villainous  from  Daliki  to  the  Konar  Takta  plain,  a 
distance  of  11  miles.  Again,  the  Kamlirij  Kotul  is  alwminable,  6  miles.  To 
avoid  the  Karagatch  heavy  work  would  be  required  for  4  miles.  To  avoid  the 
Kotul  Dukhter  and  carve  a  road  out  of  the  hillside  to  the  south  of  it,  5  miles. 
To  turn  the  Kotul  Pir-i-zan  and  make  a  carriage  road  to  Dasht-i-Arjan,  12  miJes. 


To  turn  the  Sena  Safid  Kotiil,  6  miles.  Total,  44  mile*.  These  44  miles  allow 
gmdieuta  and  comprise  all  the  heavy  works.  I  think  the  five  miles  for  the 
Kotttl  Dokhler  might  lie  saved  by  entering  the  Dasht-i-Ber  from  the  Shahiujr 
wJley,  but  of  this  I  am  not  posittve. 

The  Bakbtiari  route  is  in  my  opinion  out  of  the  question  for  wheeled  traffic  ;  but 
loppose  it  were  tried,  caravanserais  built,  and  the  Karim  bridged,  we  shonld  have 
\mxy  ^O'k  from  the  Mal-i-mir  plain  to  the  Kariln  river,  for  15  miles ;  from  the 
rit«  to  Deh-j-die,  for  lOJ  miles ;  and  from  Deh-i-dix  to  Rudbar  river,  for  12  miles ; 
(rm  Badbftr  to  Hilisat,  15  miles  ;  Hilisat  to  Dopulan,  19  miles ;  Dopulan  to  Ardall, 
7  miles;  Ardall  to  Chahiir-mahal  plateaa,  20  miles  at  least.  Total,  98i  milef. 
It  voold  be  necessary  to  add  at  least  25  per  cent,  to  these,  the  bare  distance) 
bom  point  to  point,  in  order  to  allow  for  decent  gradients,  so  that  we  have  98*5  + 

— ,  or  103*1  miles  of  difficalt  hill-road  making,  and  this  would  add  24 'G  miles 

to  the  distance  from  Tsi>ahan  to  Shustcr. 

Fn>m  the  Mal<i-mir  plain  to  the  Karun  the  gradient  is  not  excessive,  but  from 
Uie  river  to  Deh-iniiz;  the  present  track  is  too  steep  for  wheels.  From  Deh-i-diz, 
which  has  an  altitude  of  5221  feet,  the  road  rises  to  6400  feet  in  four  miles. 
DeKCoding  to  the  Kudbar  stream,  in  si.x  miles  to  3080  feet.  AscendiDg  above 
HUlsit  to  6900  feet,  and  descending  to  Hilisat,  4850  feet  in  four  miles.  From 
Blittt  it  has  to  rise  over  7850  feet,  to  descend  to  Dopulan,  4050  feet.  Here 
fit  Dopulan  a  1000  feet  gorge  has  to  be  managed,  and  the  road  carried  thence  over 
thcnvine  cnt  plateau  of  Ardall,  through  mountains  Chokahor,  and  thence  down 
into  Chahar-mahol  (6700  feet).  Mackenzie  crossed  from  Ardall  via  Chokahor,  and 
mtit  the  altitude  of  pass  8350  feet.  To  follow  the  Karian  would  be  twice  as  long 
and  just  as  difficult.    These  altitudes  are  relatively  though  not  ah«olutely  correct. 


n 


3.  Shuitcr  to  Shush  and  hack,  and  thence  to  Ahwaz. 

Slmter  to  Ab-bid,  18i  miles  level,      W.  (a  iiUle  AT.).— We  were  detained  for 
three  days  at  Shuster  (population  6000),  and  were  delighted  when  we  escaped  across 
T«lerian*8  bridge.     Along  the  road  to  Dizful  we  kept  the  northernmost  of  the 
I  roads,  a3  we  should  be  less  liable  to  be  detained  by  Hoods ;  and  crossing  the 
and  conglomerate  ridge  which  hems  in  Shustcr  on  the  north-east  and 
we  traversed  an  open,  rich,  alluvial  plain  to  Ab^bid.     The  rood  crossed 
» or  three  nullahs,  which  would  bo  awkward  in  flo«>d,  but  would  soon  run  down. 
The  plain  has  many  villages,  and  is  pretty  universally  cultivated.    Com  is  so 
jimtiful  that  our  bread  was  not  charged  for,  nor  the  corn  for  our  horses,  and  yet 
I  plain  is  tilled  in  the  most  slovenly  manner  by  a  most  lazy  people^     Ab-bid 
loaly  say  three  fiunilies,  but  supplies  are  plentiful,  and  there  is  n  good  spring  uf 
( wat«r. 
We  loctked  out  for  the  shrub  kalebleb,  which  attracted  Loftus'  attention  so  much, 
I  found  it  to  be  an  old  friend.    Lai^  quantities  grow  at  Daliki,  near  Bushire,  to 
t  height  even  of  12  feet.    Loftus  is  wrong  in  describing  its  flower  as  white  and  large, 
for  it  is  the  site  of  a  scarlet  geranium,  and  grows  in  clusters  like  that  flower;  it  has 
irs  petals,  and  is  of  a  deep  purple  colour  with  a  white  eye.     There  is  no  doubt  we 
wtn  looking  at  the  same  plant,  as  the  white  sap  was  there,  and  the  natives  volun- 
teered the  name  kulehkb  for  it.     The  seed  is  very  peculiar,  a  huge  pod  hanging  like 
ber-pUnt  flower. 
jNovembrr    25lh.— Ab-bid  to  Dizful,  18f  mt7es  letfeL      IT.— From  Ab-bid. to 
six  very  easy  farsakhs  of  level  ground,  crossing  a  500  yards'  wide  water- 
ooarse,  which  had  already  run  down  and  become  drj.    lliere  are  low  hills  to  the 
No.  IIL— Mjlrch  1883.]  m 


154 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


south  mid  bluffa  of  sandstone  to  the  north,  hut  they  both  die  out  before  Dizful  is 
reached.  Along  the  sides  of  the  watcrcoxirse  we  found  francoUn.  and  gnipo.  As  we 
approach  the  latter  place,  large  tracts  of  ploughed  bnd  haunted  by  innumerable 
cranes.  The  town  from  a  distance  looks  like  Bushire,  as  it  ia  standing  on  a  plain 
somewhat  higher  than  the  right  bank  of  the  Dizful,  and  so  appears  to  be  over  the 
sea  as  It  were. 

The  town  (population  about  20,000)  seems  cleaner  than  Shuster,  and  we  are 
kindly  welcomed  into  the  smart  telegraph  office  by  Mirza  Ali  Mohammed,  the  name 
mentioned  by  I^ady  Anne  Blunt.  There  ia  no  opiam  grown  here,  bqt  a  large  amount 
of  indigo,  as  much  as  1000  camel-loads  being  sent  inland  every  year. 

We  employ  the  evening  going  down  the  river  and  across  the  bridge,  which  is 
40  feet  abore  the  Btream,  456  paces  long,  and  has  its  twenty-one  arches  pretty  well 
in  line.  The  view  looking  from  the  bridge  ia  picturesque  and  curious,  the  river  is 
rapid,  and  still  somewhat  flooded  from  the  rain  of  the  previous  few  days.  It  has 
played  havoc  with  the  luilla  that  are  built  in  rowa  out  into  its  course;  the  mill- 
wheels,  as  well  aa  the  causeways  leading  to  them,  showing  marks  of  having  incurred 
considerable  damnge.  On  tho  left  baok,  or  right-hand  side  looking  up  stream,  the 
conglomerate  cliffs  rise  sheer  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  40  feet,  and  above  thorn 
the  quaint  mud-houses  in  irregular  shapes.  In  the  distance  the  hot,  bare  hills  of 
the  lower  sloi>e8  are  backed  up  by  the  moimtains  with  crests  of  new-fallen  snow. 

26</i. — 15  miles.  S. — Crossing  the  Dizfui  bridge,  w©  turned  sharp  south,  and 
kept  almust  parallel  with,  imd  not  far  from,  the  river.  The  ground  is  covered  with 
shrub  of  tamarisk  and  aspen,  and  a  kind  of  half-willow  and  half-poplar,  the  gharab 
or  Snh'.i'  Babyhnica,  as  proved  by  Schindler.  It  is  dry  under  foot,  and  the  trodden 
herbs  emit  a  pleasant  odour,  Quittmg  the  Dizful  where  it  turns  to  the  east,  we 
cross  some  rising  ground,  and  in  the  distance  see  the  stupendous  mounds  of  Shush 
or  SuBa,  In  the  foreground  ia  an  encampment  of  the  Ali  Kasir  Arabs,  of  about 
seventy  famihes.  To  the  right  of  the  mounds  is  a  real  forest,  such  as  gives  colour 
to  the  often-told  story  that  there  are  lions  in  this  part  of  Persia.  It  is  skirting  the 
banks  of  the  Korkha  river.  Beyond  is  a  beautiful  plain  covered  even  now  with 
verdure,  and  leading  one's  eye  up  to  the  setting  snn.  "  What  a  magnificent  site  for 
a  city  !  '*  is  what  one  exclaims  at  once  ;  but,  if  iK>8siblo,  the  view  from  the  mounds 
of  Shush  looking  north  is  finer  than  the  one  we  are  now  describing,  aa  you  have  all 
the  rolling  plain,  with  the  red  hills  and  the  snowy  mountains  changing  colour  and 
throwing  shadows  aa  varying  in  hue  as  the  dying  dolphin.  It  is  with  a  feeling  of 
intense  excitement  that  one  nears  the  site  of  the  ancient  city  renowned  in  biblical 
history,  aud  doubtless  for  some  time  queen  of  the  eastern  world.  The  tomb  of  the 
Prophet,  though  not  the  place  of  his  burial,  doubtless  marks  a  spot  on  which  his 
eyes  must  often  have  rested  and  his  feet  have  trodden. 

The  Shour  (Shouuur)  or  Shawer,  though  only  10  yards  in  width,  is  not  fordable  tiiU 
IC  miles  below  this  at  a  place  named  Ammat-ul-Zimman ;  at  night  this  place 
resounded  with  the  cries  of  jackals,  attracted  no  doubt  by  the  large  number  of 
fraucolin  that  there  nre.  Three  years  ago  the  cloisters  or  verandahs  round  the  shrine 
were  rebuilt  by  the  Itisham-a-Sultaneh,  whilst  tho  caravanserai  was  rebuilt  by  the 
Hishmel-ul-Dowleh.  Curious  to  say,  no  trace  of  the  fragments  of  Uie  '*  black  stone  **  * 
is  said  to  have  been  found  in  the  pillars  of  the  verandah  ;  the  jMrsent  guardian  of 
the  tomb  is  the  son  of  the  man  who  was  there  iu  Loftus'  time,  and  remembera  the 
latter  being  at  Shush. 

27^A.— Passe*!  a  bad  night  j  before  dawn,  the  spur-wiaged  plovers  made  a  terrible 


For  history  of  black  atone,  aee  Loflus'  ♦  Chaldea  oud  Snsiana.* 


SPRVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSU; 


15^ 


h,  with  their  rode,  often*ropcated  quwtion  of  "  Did  you  do  it?  **  and,  as  it  were, 
wo^iog  themselves  up  into  a  terrible  rage.  As  day  dawns  -we  climb  the  citadel,  with 
^BttRiUy,  its  eides  are  uo  steep  ;  it  would  hold,  I  think,  a  garrison  of  3000  raeu,  and 
wwnroapds  the  surroundioi^  mounds  completely.  I  could  see  no  sign  of  the  depression 
in  which  Loflns  would  have  one  to  beheva  the  Euhcus  flowed,  unless  this  latter  were 
owrety  a  ditch  that,  flowing  from  the  Uki,  surrounded  the  palace  and  citadel.  After 
tngptcting  Loflus'  cuts  and  excavations  here  we  went  to  the  site  of  tbo  palace  and 
iktn  WW  the  bases  of  the  columns  and  remains  of  wingeti  bull,  starting  a  large 
hjenadofie  by  it.  In  the  afternoon  we  have  to  start  for  Dizful,  and  we  shoot  as  we 
gOk  getting  K^ea  brace  of  francolin,  a  woodcock,  and  quail.  We  also  saw  a  lot  of 
fJBWWj  geem,  and  wild  pigi^.  We  arrived  at  tha  comfortable  telegraph  office  con- 
«id«ibly  after  dark. 

281^ — Dizful  to  Qouneyt  or  Gawnek;  w  Koonak^  19  miUa  level.  E. — Desinte 
tJ»e  tun  we  start  at  8.30.  A  guide  turns  up  after  us.  We  have  decided  to 
gti  hj  the  southern  road,  and  tbo  much-enduring  telegraph  wire  is  our  guide. 
Our  friend,  Mirza  Ali  Mohammed,  has  bad  no  communication  with  Tehran  foi 
14  months,  the  wire  beiug  down  to  Burojirt;  the  wild  hill  tribes  destroy  it  ii& 
fiwt  aa  it  is  put  up,  but  from  here  to  Shunter  it  hangs  in  a  marvellous  manner.  The 
^vcathar  cleared  up  at  about  10  a.u.,  and  we  breakfasti^'d  at  the  site  of  an  ancient 
city.  Our  stage  to-day  was  Koonak  or  Gawnek  ;  w©  are  still  crossing  plains  of  such 
IcnUity  that  with  the  little  rain  that  has  already  fallen  they  have  become  carpeted 
with  green. 

29<A. — A  Bakhtiari  Khan,  named  Dorab,  accompanies  us  out  along  the  grassy  plain, 
whero  ancient  water  channels,  coming  from  the  Karim  far  away,  tell  of  a  bygone  civili- 
lAliun.  Now  the  fruitful  prairie  is  given  up  to  ro<»k8  and  starlings ;  vast  numbers  of 
the  latter  are  hawking  here  like  bee-eaters.  At  night  in  flockB  of  hundreds  of  thousands 
Umj  fly  over  Shiuter  to  roost  in  the  palm  trees  at  the  south  part  of  the  town,  and  at 
nom  or  daybreak  the  sound  of  their  whirlwitwi  is  the  one  thing  lively  in  the  place. 
TfaJa  southern  road  viA  Qouneg  passes  through  the  sandstone  hills,  and  no  rough 
ttmntxy  is  encountered.  As  you  enter  Shuster  from  this  dirtjction  you  see  what  a 
nook  it  lies  in,  and  its  damp  and  heat  are  accounted  for. 

30«A,— 5Au«<er  to  Band-i-kir,  25  miles.  Fcr/edly  hvd.  S.^We  left  for  Ahwaz, 
iriX  Baod-i-kir  (SO  inhabitants,  Arabs),  over  eight  Caraakhs  of  level  ground,  the  road 
goiDg  due  ^soutb.  Near  Shuster  the  few  cultivated  fields  show  what  could  be  done 
if  this  country  had  a  decent  people  to  inhabit  it. 

The  alluvial  plain  we  are  crossing  would  be  impaasable  after  rain,  the  soil  is  so 
deq)  and  clayey.  We  pass  two  Arab  encampments.  Here  and  there  are  patches  of 
jOBulei  large  dock^  of  rooks  and  starlings.  Where  do  these  rooks  build  ?  There 
worn  dore-coloured  stilted  plovers,  too,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  kind.  At  Baud-i- 
klr  we  have  s^^me  trouble  to  get  a  roof  over  us.  Band-i-kir  is  on  the  point  of  land 
dividing  Uie  Kaisir  Band  or  Gerger  stream,  which  is  diverted  from  the  Karim  above 
Ifac  castle  at  Shuster,  and  the  Shtait  or  Kardn  proper.  The  Dizful  river  also  falls 
in  just  opposite,  we  hnvo  therefore  now  to  cross  the  first  of  these  three  so  as  to  get 
oa  to  the  left  bank  of  the  combined  river,  on  which  bank  Ahwaz  stands.  This 
ferrjriag  may  hv  avoided  by  leaving  Shuster  by  the  Pul-i-belaitee,  or  east  gate,  and 
keeping  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Kaisir  Band  or  Gerger  stream.  But  tliis  would 
make  it  three  days'  journey  to  Ahwaz  instead  of  two. 

Bocernber  Ut. — Band-i-kir  to  Ahwuzy  27  miles  level. — The  Gerger  here  is 
TiO  yardis  wide  and  exceedingly  deep.  We  failed  to  get  bottom  with  the  oars  of 
the  boat  which  was  there  ready  to  ferry  our  men  and  baggage  across.  The 
hanca  and  mules  swam  easily  in  the  placid  stream,  and  the  whole  business  did 
not  delay  ns  more  than  li  hour.    Our  road  lay  through  Weis,  an  Arab  village 

M   2 


15$ 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


on  the  left  bonk,  then  10  miles  on  we  reacLi  Abwftz,  a  miaerable  place  of  some 
30O  iohabiitaiita  of  a  low  type  of  Arnbe, 

I  here  give  Mr.  Mackenzie's  deacrlptioa  of  the  road  on  to  Mohummerali — '•  Ahwaz 
to  Ameerah^  tbrec  farsakhs ;  Ameerah  to  Samayme^  five  do.  ;  one  stage.  Samayme 
to  village  above  Mohammcrah,  seven  farsakha ;  village  to  MohammenUi,  two  do. ;  one 
stage.  Leaving  Ahwaz  we  are  on  the  left  bank,  so  it  la  necessary  to  got  to  the 
lights  or  Mohammerah  bank.  The  animals  can  be  swum  at  Ameerah,  but  there  is  no 
village  or  sapplies  beyond  on  this  bank,  and  camp  has  to  be  pitched  in  the  open  ; 
however,  four  farsaklia  of  road  is  said  to  be  saved  by  this  way." 

The  otlior  rout©  is  vi^  Samayme,  which  would  seem  to  be  on  the  left  bank  and 
eight  farsakhs  from  Ahwaz,  and  then  from  Samayme  to  village  above  Mohammerah, 
seven  farsakhs.  Hero  animals  can  be  swum,  and  it  ia  only  two  farsakhs  on  to 
Mohammerah.  It  is  obvious  therefore  that  one  ferrying  must  be  undertaken 
somewhere  about  Mohammerah  and  another  at  Band-i-kir,  or  a  day's  extra  march 
13  required  to  skirt  the  Gerger  stream, 

Mr.  Mackenzie  describes  the  country  from  Ahwaz  to  Mohammerah  as  similar  to 
that  from  Shuster  to  Ahwaz,  open  and  dx^  level,  but  difficult  after  rain  owing  to 
sticky  nature  of  soil, 

4.  Ahicaz  to  SJiiraz. 

3rd, — Ahwaz  to  east  tide  of  Shakhe  marshy  27  miles.  Level  plain  with  no 
road.  E.  by  S. — Left  Ahwaz  •  at  G.30  a.m.  The  weather  was  bitterly  cold,  and  a 
dank  fog  lay  over  the  country.  There  is  a  marked  ccx^lness  in  the  climate  at  Ahwaz 
as  compared  with  that  of  surrounding  country.  This  is  remarked  by  the  natives,  who, 
like  ourselves,  are  at  a  loss  to  account  for  it.  We  travelled  across  the  trackless  pLiin 
of  Rftm-Hormuz  in  a  direction  a  little  Bouth  of  aiPt,  and  followed  for  many  milea 
the  base  of  the  sandstone  hills  that  trend  away  in  that  direction^  as  described  in  my 
Ahwaz  report.  The  country  here  is  very  fertile.  No  artificial  irrigation  is  required. 
The  Arabs  till  soil  enough  for  their  own  wants,  and  no  more.  Sugar  was  grown 
here  at  one  time,  though,  I  believe^  with  doubtful  success. 

We  were  told  to  keep  together,  as  the  Arabs  of  these  parts  are  notorious  robbers, 
and  a  well  there  is  in  the  hills  is  a  noted  trap  of  theirs.  We  saw  large  fiocks  of 
gazelles  and  an  occasional  houbara.  As  the  sun  rose,  we  threw  off  first  our  ulsters, 
then  our  thick  jacketfi,  and  would  fain  have  stripped  to  our  shirt-Bleeves,  such  is  the 
terribly  trying  changeableness  of  temperattire  in  this  part  of  Persia,  which  vies  with 
that  of  Afghanistan  and  Peshawur,  and  combined  with  the  muddy  or  brackish  water 
which  forms  the  driok  in  these  parts,  tends  to  affect  the  strongest  stomach.  Just 
an  the  sandstone  hills  are  "  hull  down  "  on  the  south-west  horizon,  we  come  in  sight 
of  a  large  marsh  with  fioe  cattle  and  buf aloes  amongst  ita  reeds.  Some  care  has  to 
be  taken  to  find  a  fordable  track  across  it,  and  an  abominable  smell  rises  from  the 
ooze  as  it  is  trampled  by  our  animals.  There  are  plenty  of  sni()e  and  ducks.  The 
water  ia  brackish,  and  tastes  a  little  of  naphtha.  The  name  of  the  place  is  Shakhe, 
or  rather  this  is  the  name  of  the  di strict  on  the  sandhills  to  the  east ;  the  long  black 
line  of  tents  shows  the  situation  of  the  encampment  of  the  "  Bowie  "  Arab  tribe, 
which  is  our  destination.  As  we  emerge  from  the  marsh  we  see  a  great  commotion 
in  the  camp^  men  moving  in  ma£«es,  firing  guns  and  fiashing  sabres.  Our  guide 
and  servants  are  alarmed,  esjiecially  the  former,  who  has  a  bad  conscience,  having 
once  taken  part  in  a  raid  against  this  identical  clan ;  he  has  to  keep  a  strict  incognito, 
or  risk  the  loss  of  his  ears.  Old  campaigners,  however,  at  a  glance  would  see  that 
there  was  no  fear,  for  are  not  the  women  here  at  the  margin  of  the  marsh  under  our 


I 


1 


I 


I 


Ah  was  is  only  SOO  feet  above  the  sea.    Population  about  30O. 


SURVETING  TOURS  IN  SOtTTHERlf  PERSIA, 


167 


lutwt^  noMs,  carrying  the  brackish  fluid  in  their  goat-skins?    The  fun,  for  such  it 

to  be,  goes  on  fast  and  furious,  and  do  notice  is  taken  of  us  oa  we  make  our 

w»y  to  the  sheikh's  tent  and  commence  pitching  camp  in  its  neighbourhood.     It 

appears  that  the  aheikh  has  just  returned  from  a  journey,  and  all  this  fuss  was  to 

■weloome  him  home.    His  brother  comes  and  introduces  himself;  gradually  a  knot 

flC  the  old  men  gather  round  us,  and  then,  as  interest  increases,  the  whole  company 

«tf  brarcB  dances  past  for  our  special  edification,  the  chiefs  brother  caracoling  his 

Dw  btck wards  and  forwards  in  front  of  the  lino,  waviug  his  body  in  graceful 

ittHodoL    The  braves  were  all  dressed  in  long  white  clothes,  and  danced  a  springy 

ioct  of  step  as  they  advanced  in  serried  mass,  waving  their  swords  and  pieces,  and 

eiuoling  a  wild  refrain  to  the  hooour  of  the  sheikh.    After  nearly  stampeding  all  our 

horats,  the  youths  subsided  into  their  ordinary  ways. 

4U. — Shukhe  marsh  to  camp  of  Sheikh  Jahereh  Khan,  23f  milf%  eaty  road. 
BaOrEormnZf  8  miles  furtha\  General  direction,  E. — The  Bowie  camp  at 
L fihikhs  comprised  700  fomilies;  they  wero  hospitable  enough,  and  comfortably 
in  their  tents,  walled  with  reeds  from  the  marsh.  The  drawback  was 
\^t  kackish  water,  the  salt  taste  seemed  to  pervade  the  milk  of  the  flocks  and 
'\gidi  that  drank  it.  Apparently,  however,  the  pasturage  on  and  near  the  marsh 
ii  too  good  to  be  abandoned,  so  salt  drinking-water  must  be  submitted  to.  The 
large  floi^  of  beautiful  sheep  testilied  to  the  goodness  of  the  fodder.  We  have 
L  doof  with  the  level  phun.  To  the  north  and  east  the  ground  is  undulating. 
Oof  iTfty  (there  is  no  track)  soon  meets  the  Gopal  river  as  it  meanders  slowly 
between  mud  banks  18  feet  in  height.  It  has  a  taste  of  naphtha,  and  is  the  same 
fancitiah  water  that  is  found  in  the  marsh,  which  in  fact  is  fed  by  it.  On  the 
Iwaki  of  the  stream  are  the  **  Bowie  "  tribe's  summer  grounds.  There  are  signs  of 
diltiTation,  and  jars  of  unbumt  clay  made  for  the  purpose  of  holding  grain.  The 
6(>l«l  fibowed  marks  of  floods  6  feet  higher  than  its  present  or  normal  level.  It 
l^ni  30  feet  broad  and  3  feet  deep  when  we  crossed  it.  The  road,  for  a  track  has 
commeDced,  leads  through  marly  and  gatchy  hills  to  a  raised  plain,  and  the  head- 
waters of  cue  of  the  branches  of  the  Go}ml  is  crossed.  Our  way  was  along  the  plain 
to  tbs  village  of  Mir  Batcha,  which  is  situated  on  a  "  tepe,"  thence  the  plain 
tkijie*  gently  down  to  Ram-Homiuz.  We  halted  half-way  down  at  the  tents  of  Sheikh 
J&berch  Khan,  who  received  us  in  durbar,  surrounded  by  the  men  of  his  tribe. 
[TTjey  are  a  fine-looking  set,  well  behaved;  they  have  good  horses  too;  and  their 
}is  the  best  I  have  ever  tasted.  Samples  of  the  naphtha  from  the  well  on  the 
1  toShuster,  shown  on  St.  John's  map,  were  examined,  and  proved  to  be  excellent. 
There  is  not  much  of  it,  they  say,  and  the  spring  has  been  known  to  fail  entirely, 
ift«r  catching  fire.  The  water  laere  is  slightly  brackish.  Around  IJara-llormnz 
if  much  cultivation,  and  plentiful  rains  bring  crops  to  perfection. 

UK, — Camp  of  Sheikh  Jaberth  to  Rustarmiharlj  across  hvel  count ry^  1'^  mUts. 
E.  by  S. — A  tremendous  tropical  thunderstorm  came  on  and  we  were  drenched  to 
the  akin ;  had  great  difficulty  in  crossing  swollen  streams  of  the  Alai,  into  which 
our  old  friend  the  Zerdab  flows.  There  was  no  road,  as  we  were  avoiding  Rara- 
tBormui.  Two  mules  washed  off  their  feet;  we  waded  along  through  flooded 
dy-fields,  past  a  village  named  Pilip  to  another  named  Rustamabad.  Luckily, 
:  gnu  oime  out  at  3  r.M.,  and  wo  were  able  to  get  a  few  clothes  dried.  The 
Tpeople  here  are  a  wonderful  change  from  the  aquiline-nosed  Arabs  we  had  recently 
left.  They  are  a  colony  of  Id  thgelo  Lurs,  who  have  migrated  hither  from  Behbehan. 
The  Khetkhoda  of  Rustamabad  is  a  jolly  old  fellow,  in  fece  resembling  the  bust 
cl  Socrates.  Ho  is  a  warrior,  too,  and  killed  the  father  of  Dorab  Khan  of  Gownek, 
I  whom  he  had  a  feud.  The  people  are  flat-nosed  and  big-headed,  their  broad 
I  being  rendered  preternatu rally  high  by  shaving.    This  night  there  was  a 


158 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


total  eclipse  of  the  moon,  and  all  the  villagers  turned  out  to  fire  at  the  demon  thai 
was  supposed  to  be  devouring  the  Queen  of  Heaven. 

Qth. — Bustamahad  to  camp  near  Jaizun^  181  miles.  E.  by  S. — ITie  Socratic 
Khetkhoda  evidently  thinks  we  are  raade  of  money,  nod  disdains  accepting  the  goW 
j)iece  offered  in  payment  for  the  small  amount  of  j^rain  and  bread,  and  a  diseased 
sheep  he  supplied  us  with.  The  sheep  made  us  all  ill,  though  now  that  we  have 
got  into  a  sweet-water  countr)'  we  can  eat  most  things.  We  have  hit  off  the  track, 
and  just  outside  Rustamabad  wc  cross  a  stream  named  the  Shoura,*  insignificant 
except  in  flood  time.  Our  road  going  slightly  iJO\tth  hy  east,  enters  the  liroad,  open 
valley  of  the  Kardistan  river»  bounded  on  the  south  by  a  low  range  of  hills  not. 
shown  on  St.  John's  map,  and  tm  the  north  by  a  lofty  range ;  we  ore  marching  uj>- 
stream,  and  two  miles  imr;iUel  to  and  north  of  it,  so  have  to  cross  the  deep-cot 
courses  of  many  mountain  torrenta.  Luckily  we  did  not  try  these  yesterday,  or  we 
sliould  have  been  broiight  up  on  the  bank  of  the  first  one.  1  heir  sides  could  be 
ramped  for  the  pa*«sage  of  wheeled  vehicles.  Six  and  a  quiirter  miles  (two  farsakhs) 
from  Hustamabad  (about  150  inhabitants)  is  SultanalKid,  a  small  village,  with  a 
few  date-palms  and  some  bean  cultivation.  The  valley  is  hero  about  4i  miles  broad, 
and  the  river  only  Ij  mile  to  south;  a  few  miles  further  on,  the  road  etnnes  right 
to  its  bank.  There  are  large  quantities  of  konar-treea  in  the  plain  and  aspens  along 
the  river-aide.  This  would  be  a  fertile  s^wt  if  it  had  a  settled  population.  After 
jHiBsing  the  fourth  torrent  at  right  angles  to  our  road,  we  come  on  some  cultivate*! 
ground,  and  see  the  Arab  encampment  we  are  to  halt  at.  We  got  some  black 
francohns  to-<lay.  The  night  bitterly  cold,  with  sharp  frost ;  Arab  children  crying 
with  cold,  wo  badly  off  with  hall-wet  bedding. 

7<A. — Camp  near  Jaizun  to  Deh-koreyseh,  25  miles.  Road  rough  across  aptir, 
but  capaU^s  of  being  much  improved  ;  the  rest  level,  E. — Slowly  c»ur  frozen  people 
pack  up.  We  warm  ourselves  walking  after  francolin  or  black  partridge,  which 
were  plentiful  in  a  grove  of  palms,  with  an  undergrowth  of  wild  vines  and  figs^ 
We  are  handy  to  our  caravan,  as  it  passes  the  village  of  Jaizun,  inhabited  by 
Lurs.  Onr  Arob  guides  disapiiear  into  the  village.  When  we  get  200  yards, 
beyond  it,  we  see  several  men  miming  for  the  caravan.  They  commence  to 
struggle  with  our  people  to  carry  off  a  mule,  and  demand  black-maiU  We 
dismount  and  lay  on  with  sticks,  drive  them  off  well  thrashed,  send  on  the  caravan* 
aud  then  cover  the  retreat  with  drawn  revolvers.  Knives  were  l>eing  drawn  and 
guns  shouted  for  by  the  villagers,  but  by  the  time  the  guns  arrived  wo  were  out  of 
range;  the  distance  was  tried  by  firing  at  us.  Fortunately  tho  ground  was  open, 
and  they  did  not  think  fit  to  run  forward  and  hold  the  rough  D^untry  we  were  now 
approaching.  The  Blunts  experienced  annoyance  here  at  Jaizun,  This  neist  of 
robbers  ought  to  be  done  away  with.  It  is  beyond  tho  limits  of  Behbehan  territory, 
and  Sheikh  Jabereh  seems  to  have  no  power.  His  men,  our  guides,  were  doubtless  in 
collusion  with  the  villagers.  These  worthies  loHt  the  present  they  were  to  have 
received  from  uk,  notwithstanding  that  they  protested  ignorance,  aud  declared  they 
heard  nothing  of  the  row.  About  four  miles  east  of  Jaizun  the  valley  has  narrowed 
considerably,  and  the  road,  no  longer  able  to  follow  the  river,  strikes  across  the  spur 
from  the  mountains,  which  spur  here  closes  the  valley.  The  rt«ad,  though  rough, 
could  easily  be  knocked  into  shape,  having  no  steep  gradients,  and  the  rocks  mostly 
being  conglomerate.  From  the  north-east  side  of  the  spur  a  fine  view  vi  the  Behbehan 
Mlaln  is  gained.  The  town  is  in  the  middle-distance,  with  a  fine  range  of  mountains 
to  the  north  with  their  snowy  caps  bounding  the  %iew  in  that  direction.  A  low 
range  of  hills  to  the  south  divides  the  pKiin  of  Behbehan  from  that  which  runs  down 


Thiit  must  be  the  Alar^of  St.  John's  map.  \ 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


189 


Ut  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  iwrns  the  river  Jaralii  west  into  the  valley  tip  which  we 

yn  been  tmvclliog.    On  the  left  the  road  from  Potek  is  seen,  with  the  ^iliiln  on 

itel  dd»  ft  deep  green  fn:>m  konar  clumps.    St.  John^  map  chows  the  Potek  rond  as 

;  !he  one  by  which  we  are  travelling  at  Kai-kaus ;  but  this  is  incorrect.     We 

hear  nothing  of  Kni-kaus.     The  Kam-Honunz  road  certainly  dws  not  go 

\  tnch  a  place. 

KtU. — Deh-korcyseh   to  Bchhchany   the  Jarahi   river   diJicuU    to  c/*om,   other' 

vm  coutUrtf  hvel^   11  miles.     Direct ion^  E. — Last  night  our  tent  waa   pitched 

rihe  village  of  Koreys«h,  of  about  tifteen  inhabitants.    A  white  frost  and  cold 

fi^  Clever  the  land  this  morning.     A  stream  from  the  direction  of  north  has  first  to 

IcnaBcd,  and  three  miles  from  camp  the  river  Jarahi  itself  forms  a  formidable 

From  hank  to  bank  it  is  70  yards  wide,  and  in  flood  wouM  be  at  least  kIx 

1  deep ;   it  is  a  rapid  stream,  and  even  now  when  only  45  yards  wide  is  only 

I  by  strong  men,  being  up  to  the  horses'  girths ;  in  spring  it  would  be  n  nasty 

flood  to  pass.     Fine  cover  of  tamarisk  and  oleanders  marks  its  course,  whil*it  beyond 

ntlm-groTes,  villages,  and  cultivated  ground  present  an  unwonted  scene  of  prosperity 

lad  sticurity  for  this  part  of  Persia.    Wild  cabbage  is  the  ordinary  weed  of  the 

phin. 

'iihe  governor  of  Behbehan,  the  "  Nusir-ul-mulk,"  welcomed  wa  most  kindly 
|kloa$b  his  young  commandant  of  horse,  a  Shiraai  gentleman,  who  .spoke  a  little 
•Sll|)ish.  We  were  comfortably  housed  in  a  garden  worthy  of  Shiraz  itself,  How- 
irer,  pahns,  which  are  hero  plentiful,  are  great  rarities  in  the  capital  of  Fars.  The 
Xla^^«^*^»^llk  is  fond  of  gardening  and  building ;  the  narcissuses  are  in  full  bloom ; 
(ggtif'Oil  plants,  orange  trees,  and  a  few  sickly  plantains,  with  jessamine  in  btoom» 
liDODgst  the  rarities. 

^XIm  town  has  practically  no  walls;  the  population  is  between  lour  and  five 
1 ;  it  seems  thinly  peopled  and  tumble-down,  yet  delightfully  clean  com[tAred 
iDiiful  and  Shusler.     The  wafer  supply  is  poor;  water  has  to  be  stored  in 
alars  or  subterranean  chaiubcrs   for  smumer  use.      There   is  a   regiment  of 
ifiliiDtry  and  a  few  guns  here. 

WA. — We  kilted  and  called  on  the  governor. 

lOtA. — The  Nusir-ul*mulk  came  in  person  to  bid  us  good-bye;  he  gave  'is  a  large 
iind  sent  some  treasure  to  Shiraz  in  our  company. 

From  Behbehan  to  Kumesheh  there  is  a  road,  the  stages  of  which  were  thus^ 
pfeo  as: — Kumesheh,  Takeen,  Nakneh,  Felat,  Khoy  or  IChm*,  Sisakbt,  Chenar, 
th»dat,  Seri-ab,  Deh-Dasht,  Dehbehan.* 

The  rood  is  said  to  be  tolerably  g(X>d  for  mules,  except  for  two  stages  near 
ffiakbt  which  are  bad,  the  people  met  with  are  Kohke^Lurs,  nith  the  exception  of 
ibeflntlwo  or  three  stages  from  Kumesheh.  The  country  triverscd  is  uih."ibited 
threoghout,  and  passable  in  ten  days  in  winter,  but  in  summer  you  can  i^^o  in  one 
(lay  from  Sisakht  to  Tesonge,  which  is  the  summer  residence  of  the  governor  of 
BehbehaD,  and  by  this  means  a  day  will  be  saved. 

l\th, — Behbehan  to  Khuirahad  rivers  15  mile».  Easy  road  with  siight  aseent, 
E.  with  a  little  south. — Our  road  goes  east  across  the  plain  of  Behbehan  and  into 
xht  low  hills  that  divide  the  basin  of  the  Khairabad  river  from  that  of  the  Jarahi. 
We  ciUDp  near  the  river,  which  is  30  yards  wide  and  easily  fordable,  though  in  spring 
it  wottld  1x3  a  formidable  obstacle,  being  rapid  with  a  stony  bed.  Good  franoolin 
flbootiog  here,  and  lions  are  occasionally  found. 

12ih,-^KJiairafMd  river  to  Do-gunibitzdn,^  27i  miles,     S.  by  E, — ^From  Khair- 


*  This  route  waa  followed  by  Mr,  Stoqneler  in  1832,  and  is  described  id  his  pmbliahed 
tnnls.  t  The  two  domea. 


160 


SURVEYIKG  TOL'RS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


abad  rirer  to  Do-gumbazaD,  direction  soutli  bj  east,  the  road  commencea  ^ 
gradually  asceuda  lo  the  plain  of  Lishter,  four  miles  wido  by  10  inilea  long ;  a  granrt 
place  for  pasturing  marea,  even  at  this  seasou  there  Lh  grass,  and  the  evergreea  konara 
give  shade,  whilst  tlie  Shams-ul-arab  stream,  which  bounds  it  on  the  south-east, 
supplies  good  water.  Tbe  above-named  stream  is  small  except  in  time  of  flood. 
After  crossing  it  we  enter  rounded  gypsum  hills  and  are  amongst  them  for  four  miles 
of  road,  after  which,  crossing  the  water-part in«;  between  Sliams-ul-arab  and  tlie 
I>o-griimljaz:in  stream  (alt.  2480  feet),  the  road  becotneii  level  with  hills  on  either 
aide ;  that  of  Shuh-ruh  lo  the  right  front  is  remarkable  in  shape.  The  mountain 
on  the  left,  marked  on  Ihe  majt  as  Kuh-i-huma,  but  known  as  Kub-i-dil,  must  be  at 
least  10,000  feet  in  height,  and  looks  well  from  the  i>lain  on  which  Do-gumbazAn 
atands.  They  say  the  stream  from  this  plain  is  lost  in  a  marsh.  The  water  from 
the  snows  of  Kuh-i-dil  mastly  goes  down  the  Shams-ul-arab.  At  Do-gumbazin  is 
a  ruined  caravanserai  and  a  small  village,  the  first  we  have  seen  since  Behbehan. 

13(h. — Do-gumhazan  lo  Bash(\  25  milts.  Direct hn,  E.  by  N.  Basht  to 
Tel-€8ptd^  18  miles,  E.  by  /?,— From  Di>gAimbazdn  to  Basht  (alt.  2730  feet), 
three  farsakha,  there  is  a  gentle  descent  over  a  plain  showing  marks  of  once 
being  well  peopled,  though  now  a  few  tents  are  seen  and  a  little  cultivation. 
Graat  slabs  of  almost  perpendicular  limestone  rise  from  it,  and  form  the  south 
of  the  Kuh-i-dil,  The  road  runs  to  the  north-east,  and  turns  the  east  end  of 
the  mountt-ia  without  much  difficulty  by  threading  between  the  knife  edges 
of  the  remarkable  limestone  formation,  and  asceuding  a  slight  kotul  called  the 
Taug-i-narik  (alt.  3230  feet).  To  the  east  of  the  mountain  the  country  is  quite 
park-like  with  the  oaks  which  have  again  appeared.  On  nearing  Basht  the 
mad  was  so  bad,  f-TJlowing  a  zigzag,  for  li  mile,  that  we  had  often  to  dismount; 
hut  wo  had  evidently  missed  the  way,  for  a  better  track  was  necessary  for  the 
rickety  gun-carriage  we  have  been  tracing  from  Behbehan.  The  gun,  it  seems, 
reached  the  small  atune  fort  of  Baaht  only  to  be  sent  back  again  to  Behbehan.  The 
fort  would  hold  70  men.  There  is  a  permanent  garrison  of  government  people,  but 
very  weak.  At  Baiiht  is  a  fine  ojjeu  valley  running  west  by  north  to  east  by  south, 
with  a  small  stream  capablu  of  becom^ing  an  awkward  flood.  Thia  in  its  normal 
condition  trickles  (jver  a  stony  bed  down  tho  centre  of  the  valley.  Tlie  people 
(there  are  only  about  100)  are  at  feud  with  all  their  neighbours,  and  never  dare 
wander  out  of  sight  of  home.  Large  clumps  of  wild  myrtle  dot  the  plain  ;  carraway 
seeds  are  cultivated,  and  an  oil  extracted  for  sale.  A  road  goes  from  here  to  Mian 
Kotul,  and  in  reported,  to  be  gooih  The  snowy  peaks  above  Dasht-i-arjan  were  viaible 
from  Do-gumbaziin. 

From  Basht  the  road  leads  down  and  across  the  valley,  past  mounds  evidently 
sites  of  ancient  fortified  places,  and  eutera  the  low  hilk  on  the  north-west ;  it  ascends 
only  to  descend  again,  m  as  to  hit  ofiF  a  watercourse,  which  must  be  occupied  by  a 
considerable  t«>rrent  at  times.  Thence  we  go  through  a  park-like  valley  with  fine  oaks ; 
at  the  head  of  this  is  the  first  serious  obstacle  to  wheeled  vehicles  that  we  have  mot  with 
since  Behbehan,  vir.  the  Guzinjun  ridge,  which  is  of  limestone  rocks.  The  ascent, 
coming  from  the  west,  is  nothing,  but  the  descent  of  half  a  mile  into  the  Chal-i- 
moreh  plain  is  steep,  rough,  and  difficult.  The  view  from  the  Guzinjun  ridge 
(alt.  2780  feet)  is  fine.  The  Chal-i-moreh  valley,  almost  perfectly  flat,  has  its 
alluvial  soil  standing  level  up  against  the  fctony  hiils.  A  narrow  gorge  admits  the 
fiver,  which  meanders  from  the  north-east,  escaping  by  an  equally  narrow  gorge  to 
the  west.  The  plain  extends  to  the  east,  like  an  arm  of  the  sea,  the  sluggish  stream 
of  the  Ser-ab-i-fiiah  draining  this  arm  and  falling  into  the  n>Bin  stream  two  miles 
from)  the  ridge.  The  fords  of  tbe  main  river  and  that  of  the  Ser-ab-i-siah  are 
easy;    that  of  ihe  latter  is  just  above  where  a  remarkable  mound,  evidently 


4 


< 


SCnVEYlKG  TOURS  IN  SOOTHERN  PERSU. 


161 


I 


» 


ttrtificult  U  DOW  oiDWoed  by  a  ruined  mosque.    The  mouDd  is  circular  in  shaix), 

40  feet  of  steep  scarp,  and  70  feet  diameter,      "llie  Ser-ab-i-slah  evidently 

fonnerly  led  rouud  the  CAUt  .side  of  the  mouad  as  well  as  the  west,  aud  a 

Wt  ditch  was  thus  secured,  but   now  there  is  only  water  on  the  west.      This 

rirtr  is  Aid  to  rise  at  one  burst  from  a  huge  spring  half-way  up  the  valley 

which  has  been  likened  to  an  nrm  of  the  sea,  certainly  we  saw  nothing  of  the 

mrco  at  the  head  of  that  valley,  or  rather  at  the  narrow  neck  of  level  called 

Am  Pal*i-B&fid,  where  it  emerges  into  the  Tel-espid  plain.    Moreover,  there  was 

n  irrigation  channel  from  Tel-espid,  formed  evidently  to  water  this  upper  jjortion 

tf  the  "arm,"  above  the  sources  of  the  Ser-ab-i-siah,  so  the  tale  of  the  spring  is 

inblUy  true  (.iltitude  of  Tel-espid,  2830  feet).     Tel-espid  plain  is  similar  to  that  of 

Chil4-DK>reh  in  character,  only  more  circular  than  oblong,  which  is  the  shape  of 

the  fonaer.    One^s  attention  is  attracteil  by  the  square  mud  towers  of  the  Lur 

loh«l«(snts,  all  placed  on  artificial  mounds  commandiDg  tbc  tents  or  huis  at  their 

feel.    These  Lur  people  stay  here  all  the  year  round,  but  prefer  not  to  build  houses 

(iv  ietf  of  the  tax-gatherer  getting  a  firmer  hold  of  them  by  means  of  Ihoir  fixed 

MiMOOeB. 

Fwni  Tel-espid  to  Knzorun  there  is  a  road  down  the  valley  of  the  Shahpur  river. 
The  ftages  as  given  us  are  these  :— From  Tel-espid  to  Nuradibad,  three  farsakhs ; 
from  Nuradabad  to  Nodun,  seven  do. ;  from  Nodun  to  Kazemn,  six  do. ;  or  from 
Nodup  to  Mian  Kotul,  six  do.  This  Tel-espid  plain  is  watered  by  the  Fahlyun 
rirer,  ••  1  prefer  to  call  it  (after  the  principal  village  and  tribe  of  the  Tel-espid  plain). 
]t  ia  shown  as  Ab-i-shur  in  St.  John's  map,  and  as  the  Rudyan  river  and  Tang-i- 
klift,  or  Shaspir,  on  my  sketch-  Rice-fields  seem  to  absorb  the  whole  of  this  rapid 
itiMm,  for  not  a  drop  could  we  see  in  the  watercourse  which  leads  from  the  plain 
to  the  soutli-west,  but  numerous  irrigation  channels  were  to  bo  traced,  notably  the 
oaele4i(iuig  to  the  heail  of  the  Ser-ab-i-siah  valley, 

liUt. — I'fl-rnpid  to  Pul-i-murt,  IG  miles. — We  followed  the  Tel-espid  plain 
to  north-east,  and  went  straight  to  a  steep,  rugged  kotul  (alt.  3830  fett).  Obviously 
litre  uiust  be  a  better  line  for  a  road  where  the  river  enters  the  plain.  Having 
dnosndedthe  other  side  of  the  kotul  we  are  by  the  river-side  ngain,  and  two  miles 
fcrtherup  stream  we  are  at  the  foot  of  the  precipitous  hill  named  Kaleh-sa6d,  from 
lie  white  colour  of  its  rocks  and  its  being  osetl  as  a  stronghold  in  time  of  disturb- 
There  is  only  one  way  to  the  top,  and  that  no  easy  one.  The  sides  are  scaqjs 
idicular  rock.  This  hill  should  be  on  the  left  bank ;  it  is  marked  on  the 
ig  jide  of  the  river  ia  St,  John's  map.  Just  byKaleh-safid  the  Fahlyun  river  is 
joined  by  the  Sul  stream  from  the  north,  the  main  stream  from  the  east  being  here 
oiled  the  Tang-i-khast  river.  It  is  18  3'arda  wide  and  three  feet  deep,  flowing  very 
npidly.  It  gets  the  name  of  the  Tang-i-khast  stream  from  a  narrow  gorge  through 
which  it  flows.  This  gorge  would  be  the  natural  direction  «>f  the  road  to  Shiraz,  but 
tat  iome  reason  the  Sul  is  followed  in  its  north-easterly  direction,  and  along  it  a 
rarr  rough  bit  of  country  is  encountered.  The  road  crosses  the  Sul  stream  no  less 
tbji  four  times  in  three  miles,  and  is  bridged  at  the  fifth  crossing  by  the  Pul-i-murt 
C  Bridge  of  the  Myrtles  *').  At  this  **  Pal "  we  rested  for  the  night,  there  being  an 
old  caravanserai. 

Tlie  Pul-i-murt  is  named  after  the  extraordinarily  fine  myrtle  that  flourishes 
in  gropes  near  at  hand.  Blackbirds  and  robins  delight  to  hide  in  these  thickets, 
tad  remind  one  of  Devonshire  by  their  notes  at  sun -down  (altitude  of  Pul-i- 
murt,  3630  feet).  Oleander  and  wild  almond  too  flourish  in  this  narrow  valley, 
*hnt  in  and  protected  as  it  is  from  winter  blasts.  Our  sen-ants  and  muleteers 
an  all  falling  sick,  owing  to  the  cold  we  are  experiencing  and  the  long-continued 
aarohicg.    The  people  on  this  side  of  Behbehan  are  totaUy  different  in  appearance 


162 


SURVEYING  TOURS  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 


from  the  Bakhtiari,  tho  fine-drawn  Arab,  or  the  flat-faced  Eohgelo-Lura  we  have 
been  accuBtomed  to.  Here  the  Mamasseni-Lurs  are  the  finest-looking  men  I  have 
yet  seen  in  Perein.  They  have  a  handsome  Jewish  cast  of  countenance,  with 
very  aquiline  noses  and  long  beards  ;  the  moustaches  drooping  and  lighter  coloured ; 
the  hair  alsti  light-brown ;  the  eyes  often  are  black,  but  sometimes  grey.  They  wear 
the  tall,  brown  felt  hat  of  the  ancient  Persians,  much  more  imposing  than  tho  round- 
headed  cap  of  the  Bakhtiaria  and  Kohgelo-Lurs,  One  of  the  guides  to-day  amnsed 
119  much.  Ho  was  a  good-natured  fellow  with  weak  eyes.  He  was  always  shouting 
at  his  horse  or  asking  absurd  questions  about  Feringistan,  such  as  whether  we  rsadod 
on  one  another's  villages  ?  how  he  would  he  received  if  he  went  to  London  ?  &c.,  &c. 
This  lad  had  no  idea  of  distance,  and  did  not  even  pretend  to  know  tho  length  of 
a  farsakh.  Another  guide  was  a  Bakhtiari  who  was  always  making  disparaging 
remarks  on  the  cotmtry  we  were  passing  through,  and  singing  the  praises  of  his  own, 
which  is  not,  in  my  opinion,  to  be  comi«re<i  to  this.  Guide  is  a  misnomer  for  the 
people  supplied  by  Persian  aiithoritiea,  as  most  of  the  men  who  come  pretending  to 
show  the  way  have  never  travtlled  the  road  they  aro  now  acting  as  pilots  for. 

15th. — Pui-i-murt  to  Tatiff-i-rttdt/an,  24 J  miles. — From  Pul-i-murt  we  follow 
the  main  stream  of  tho  Sul  river  along  its  left  bank,  having  crossed  to  that  side. 
The  valley  is  pretty  and  well-wooded,  though  narrow  and  steep-banked.  The 
road  could  be  made  very  goo<l  as  the  gradients  are  not  very  difficult,  Kice  cultiva- 
tion is  seen  near  the  water  wherever  the  valley  widenB,  and  now  and  then  clumps  of 
myrtle  appear.  A  solitary  mill  is  the  only  habitation  we  see  during  the  d.iy.  The 
track,  leaving  the  head-waters  of  the  Sal  or  Sul,  turns  east  through  a  narrow  gorge 
capable  of  carrying  a  good  road,  and  by  easy  gradients  the  watershed  that  divides  n» 
from  the  plateau  of  Tang-i-rudyan  is  reached.  We  saw  many  marks'of  beai-s  and  of 
Q  panther  here,  also  of  wild  pig  and  sheep  (ftlt.  G950  feet).  Having  crossed  this, 
the  descent  to  tho  banks  of  tho  Tang-i-khast  or  Fnhlyuii  river,  which  here  ia  called 
the  Tang-i-rudyan  rivcr^  is  easy  and  gentle.  We  are  now  on  an  extensive  plateau, 
bounded  on  the  north  by  tho  Kuh-i-kum-finiz,  on  the  south  by  the  lofty  range  that 
runs  west  from  Daaht-i-arjan,  and  on  the  east  by  the  Kuh-i-barafi  of  Shiraz  and  tho 
Kaneh-xenun  hill,  known  as  Kuh-i-kelat;  on  the  west,  the  plateau  dies  out  in  the 
hills  that  bound  the  Sal  river. 

At  night  wo  reach  the  village  of  Tang-i-rudyan,  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a 
narrow  valley  carved  out  of  the  plateau  by  the  Fahlyun  river,  which  is  here,  ns  at 
Kaleh-i-safid,  perfectly  sweet  (alt.  6400  feet).  Ho%v  it  camo  to  be  called  the 
Bhur,  or  "salt  river,"  was  explained  by  a  man  here,  who  told  us  that  between  this 
and  Kaleh-i-safid  salt  is  manufactured  on  tho  banks  of  a  tributary  of  the  main 
stream,  the  waters  of  the  tributary  being  highly  impregnated  with  chloride  of 
sodium. 

17th. — Tang-i-rudyan  to  Oot/tnn,  24  miles.  S.E. — We  leave  the  fort  and 
valley  of  Tang-i-rudyan,  the  headquarters  *f  the  Bushman-Zeari  Lurs.  A 
steep  climb  of  600  feet  and  wo  are  on  the  level  of  the  plateau ;  200  feet  more  and 
we  cross  a  ridge  that,  running  from  the  direction  of  Sbiraz,  divides  the  plateau  in 
two,  but  dies  out  hero  at  Tang-i-rudyan.  From  the  summit  of  this  n6ge  Adakhan 
is  visible,  and  a  plain  dotted  very  sparsely  with  villages.  With  a  settled  govern- 
ment this  would  be  a  rich  place  indeed.  Vines  are  grown  along  the  hill-sides,  as  we 
foDow  the  northern  slope  of  the  ridge  to  where  the  plain  dies  out  at  a  village  named 
'  Shul  (alt.  6725  feet).  The  people  are  not  the  men  that  the  Tel-espid  plain 
produced,  though  they  belong  to  the  same  clan  ;  the  women,  however,  are  remarkably 
pretty,  and  do  not  cover  their  faces.  A  gentle  ascent  from  Shul  takes  you  to  the 
watershed  dividing  the  basin  of  the  Fahlyun  river  from  that  which  drains  into  the 
Shiraz  valley.     This  watershed  is  at  altitude  7350  feet»      We  camp  at  Goyum 


I 


I 
I 


UEUTENANT  WISSMANN*S  JOURNEY  ACROSS  AFRICA.  163 

(lit.  5750  feet),  a  Se3rud  village,  and  experience  extreme  cold.    The  country  is  now 
llw  regular  centxal  Persian  hill  and  barren  valley. 

tfogrum  to  Shiratt  21  miles,  8.E, — Descending  gently  to  Shiraz,  now  and 
tben  pMsing  a  walled  village  and  regular  gardens  at  Musjid-i-bardi,  we  reach  our 
liaven  after  20  miles'  ride,  and  get  news  of  the  world  after  six  weeks  and  a  day's 
absence  from  it.* 


LteutenatU  Wissmann^a  Journey  acroae  Africa. 
ICap,  p.  184. 

Ox  January  19tli  Lieutenant  Wissmann  gave  a  lecture  on  his  march 
acroM  Africa  before  the  Khedivial  Geographical  Society,  at  Cairo,  in 
iUustration  of  which  Dr.  Schweinfarth  prepared  a  large  diagram,  hased 
upon  the  explorer's  own  route-sketches,  tracings  of  which  latter  have 
been  kindly  communicated  to  us  for  early  publication.f 

Of  the  earlier  stages  of  this  memorable  expedition  the  *  Proceedings ' 
have  already  rendered  an  account.t  It  will  be  remembered  that 
Br.  P<^ge  and  Lieutenant  Wissmann  left  Hamburg  for  Loanda  in 
Kovember  1880,  but  that  it  was  June  2nd,  1881,  before  they  were  able  to 
get  away  from  Malansh  into  the  interior.  They  were  accompanied  by 
Jo0e  Maria  Gcrmano,  as  interpreter,  who  was  subsequently  superseded 
by  a  black  man,  Biserra,  a  linguistic  genius,  who  picked  up  a  colloquial 
knowledge  of  Kiswahcli  in  the  course  of  five  days,  whilst  at  Nyangwe. 
Finding  the  road  to  the  Muata  Yanvo  s  closed  against  them,  they  turned 
to  the  north.  Their  assurance  that  the  Muata  Yanvo  had  charged  them  to 
fetch  Eahangula's  head  removed  all  obstacles  which  the  Lunda  chiefs  on 
the  frontier  might  otherwise  have  placed  in  their  way,  for  they  are 
accQstomed  to  *'  commissions  "  of  that  nature,  and  net  over-inquisitive  as 
to  the  authority  by  which  they  are  executed. 

On  October  2nd  they  arrived  at  Kikassa,  on  the  Kasai,  in  lat.  6°  20' 
8^  and  on  the  following  day  crossed  that  river  into  the  Tnshilange 
country,  where  they  met  Eingenge,  a  powerful  chief,  who  was  out  with 
200  men  in  pursuit  of  elephants.  Kingenge  readily  promised  to  conduct 
them  to  Nyangwe  on  the  Lualaba,  and  they  started  in  his  company. 
On  the  road  they  learnt,  however,  that  Mukenge,  another  chief  of  the 
Toahilange,  was  a  more  powerful  man.  In  order  to  conciliate  hin>  the 
two  explorers  separated,  and  whilst  Lieutenant  Wissmann  continued 

*  F<»  farther  information  of  this  country,  viz.  about  Adakban  and  Goynm,  and  the 
nsd  from  Adakhan  to  Shiraz,  see  Captain  Durand's  *  Report  on  a  Toor  in  Fars,' 
]iiifalished  in  1879. 

t  In  Iftjli^g  down  Lieutenant  Wissmann^s  route  on  our  map  we  have  adopted  tlie 
paftSona  of  6inambann*8  and  Nyangwe  as  given  on  Buohner's  preliminafy  mop  and 
Bavntsteinls  large  map  of  Equatorial  Africa,  and  adjusted  it  to  the  few  latitudes  already 
caapated  by  the  Qennan  explorer.-  Assuming  these  terminal  points  to  be  correctly 
piaoed,  we  have  found  that  Lieutenant  Wissmann's  estimate  of  the  distances  travelled  is 
only  about  10  per  cent  in  excess  of  the  truth. 

X  Sm  *Pxooeedtng8,'  1882,  p.  678,  with  i^ap. . 


IH 


LIEUTENANT  WISSMANK'S  JOURKEr  ACROSS  AFRICA- 


1 


with  Eingengo,  Dr.  Pogge  turned  off  to  the  left,  and  proceeded  tO] 
IVriikenge's  town.  Tbo  reception  which  the  travellers  met  with  amou 
the  TushilaDgo  was  exceedingly  good.  As  '*  men  come  out  of  the  water,* 
or  sea,  they  were  looked  upon  as  spirits  of  departed  chiefs,  come  back  to 
revisit  the  "  glimpses  of  the  moon/'  and  all  sorts  of  people  were  intro- 
duced to  them  as  claiming  kindred* 

They  finally  started  for  Nyangwe  on  December  Ist,  1881,  under  the 
guidance  of  Mukenge  with  fifty  of  his  wives.  The  Lulua»  here  flowing 
over  a  rocky  bed  of  grauite  and  not  navigable,  was  crossed  on  the  same 
day,  and  a  densely  peopled  region  of  prairies  was  entered  upon.  On 
December  17th  the  travellers  arrived  at  the  Munkamha  lake,  which  had 
been  described  to  them  as  a  vast  sea,  but  turned  out  to  bo  of  very  small 
extent,  not  being  more  than  three  miles  in  length.  It  is  fed  by  springs, 
fringed  by  sedge  and  high  grass,  and  has  apparently  no  outlet.  Its 
elevation  above  the  sea  is  2230  feet. 

From  here  they  made  their  way  towards  the  Lubi,  a  tributary  of 
the  Lubilaah  or  Sankuru,  itself  a  tributary  of  the  Congo.  The  Lubi 
forms  the  boundary  between  the  Tushilange  and  the  Basonge  (singular 
Muaonge).  They  had  been  previously  struck  by  the  great  numbers  of 
the  wild  Tushilange  flocking  around  them  by  thousands,  but  Lieutenant 
Wissmann  states  that  the  Basonge  were  even  more  numerous.  He 
speaks  of  the  people  as  friendly,  laborious,  and  highly  skilled  in  all 
kinds  of  industrial  art,  and  he  brought  away  splendid  specimens  of  their 
weapons,  carved  ivory,  baskets,  inlaid  wares,  and  iron  and  copper  utensils. 

Leaving  these  interesting  tribes  and  the  fertile  plains  they  inhabit,  ^ 
the  travellers  entered  the  vast  virgin  forests  which  extend  as  far  as  the  H 
Lubilash,  a  stream  of  the  width  of  the  Elbe.  Lieutenant  Wissmann 
mentions  the  total  absence  of  fruit  trees  in  this  region,  and  conse- 
quently of  game  and  birds.  Only  elephants  and  a  kind  of  wild  boar 
are  met  with  at  intervals.  Reaching  the  Lubilaah  in  5'^  7'  S.  lat.,  they 
encountered  fresh  difficulties  in  the  ill-will  of  the  king  of  Koto,  an  old 
and  much  reverenced  sorcerer  called  Kachichi,  who  rules  over  a  medley 
of  Luba  tribes;  he  would  not  provide  boats  for  crossing  tho  stream, 
and  it  was  only  by  intimidating  him  with  shots  and  rockets  that  they 
induced  him  at  last  to  produce  the  needful.  fl 

After  crossing  tho  Lubilaah  they  passed  through  the  kingdom  of  the  ■ 
Beneki  tribe  of  whom  Lieutenant  Wissmann  speaks  very  highly ;  he 
says  that  their  villages  are  models,  well  built  and  clean,  the  houses  sur- 
rounded by  gardens  and  palm  trees.  They  are  an  agricultural  people, 
very  numerous  and  well  to  do.  Some  of  the  villages  took  four  and  five 
hours  to  march  through,  and  had  one,  two,  and  three  rows  of  houses  or 
streets ;  the  population  must  number  hundreds  of  thousands.  From  here 
they  passed  through  the  vast  prairie  lands  inhabited  by  the  tribes  Kalebue 
and  Milehue,  densely  populated  parts  which  extend  as  far  as  the  Lomami, 
also  a  tributary  of  the  Congo,  beyond  which  they  crossed  Cameron's 
track.    Tho  travellers  suffered  severely  from  the  heavy  rains — in  fact 


I 
I 


GEOGBAPHICAL  BOIiB. 


X6(» 


€bey  ooqM  not  Have  tDanaged  to  traverse  these  swamps  had  they  not 
been  mounted  on  oxen— capital  animals  which  they  had  bought  at 
Loanda.  Lieutenant  Wissmann  says  that  they  jump  like  English 
h(inten«  canter  and  trot»  and  he  much  regrets  having  lost  the  last  before 
nachtng  the  East  Coast,  as  they  only  live  in  West  and  Central  Africa, 
fsd  oaanot  stand  the  climate  of  the  East  Coast 

Nyangwe  was  reached  on  April  17th.  Dr.  Pogge  started  on  his  return 
joonisy  westwards  on  May  5th,  and  left  only  three  men  with  guns  with 
klteompanion.  The  latter,  however,  met  with  ready  assistance  from 
Sbeikh  Abed  ben  Salim,  an  Arab,  who  furnished  him  with  ten  guns  and 
fifteen  carriers,  with  whom,  on  June  Ist,  he  started  for  Lake  Tanganyika. 
I2f[ieatedty  crossing  the  routes  of  previous  explorers,  ho  arrived  at 
Plymouth  Rock,  a  station  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  on  July 
18th,  where  the  Kev.  Mr.  Griffiths  hospitably  entertained  hira  during 
i  fortnight's  stay.  From  this  station  he  crossed  the  lake  to  Ujiji. 
Guns  were  few  there  and  expensive,  so  that  Lieutenant  Wissmann 
WM  obliged  to  start  with  twenty  unarmed  carriers.  This  unpre- 
paredsesB  against  a  hostile  attack  nearly  cost  him  dearly.  The 
f^ple  of  TJhha,  who  knew  of  his  defenceless  condition,  lay  in  wait 
I  for  him  near  the  Malagarazi,  and  were  preparing  to  put  a  stop  to  his 
^fe  farther  joumeyings,  when  he  bared  his  arm,  and,  pointing  to  a  scar, 
^m  ahoated  Mirambo !  The  word  acted  like  magic  The  doath  of  a  white 
^K  man  with  whom  the  dreaded  chief  had  exchanged  blood  would  surely 
^H  be  avenged,  and  the  intending  plunderers  desisted.  J'blirambo,  whose 
^^  apital  Lieutenant  Wissmann  reached  on  August  Slst,  is  described  by 
him  as  "  a  capital  fellow." 

rFrom  Unyanyembe  Lieutenant  Wissmann  paid  a  visit  to  the  German 
fctotion  of  Gonda,  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  getting  a  pair  of  boots,  and 
filially  reached  the  coast  by  way  of  Mpwapwa.  He  arrived  at  Saadani 
on  November  16th,  1882,  having  spent  twenty-two  months  and  a  half 
b  his  journey  from  coast  to  coast. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


A  Hew  Swedish  Arctic  Expedition. — The  famous  Arctic  explorer 
Xordenskidld,  far  from  being  content  to  rest  on  his  laurels,  is  preparing 
for  a  new  expedition  this  summer,  of  great  difficulty  and  danger,  to  the 
flsst  coast  of  Greenland.  lie  has  abandoned  the  idea,  which  he  is 
known  to  have  entertained,  of  revisiting  the  Siberian  Sea,  considering  it 
likely  that  the  Danish  Expedition  will  be  there  this  summer.  The 
plan  of  the  new  undertaking  is  to  sail  along  the  Greenland  cotist  as  far 
ai  possible,  and  then  to  attempt  a  land  joumej  of  some  hundreds  of  miles 
•cross  the  inland  glaciers,  it  being  hoped  that  the  existence  of  oases  of 

kind  will  be  proved  in  the  midst  of  the  enormous  ice  plateau. 

inskiDld  infers  that  oases  exist  from  certain  observations  he  made 
on  a  former  journey  to  Greenland,  and  also  from  traces  discovered  by 


•cross 
on  a  f 


i66r 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


one  of  tihe  German  expeditioii8.  He  believoa  that  after  paasing  th< 
zone  of  ice-fields  around  the  coast,  ibe  count rj'  beyond  is  entirely  frco 
from  ice,  and  probably  wooded,  being  warmed  by  the  southerly  wind, 
which  reaches  the  interior  as  a  dry  wnd.  The  eastern  side  of  Green- 
land is  still  very  little  known,  the  country  being  wild  in  the  extreme^ 
and  flanked  by  rugged  peaks  which  inako  it  difficult  to  penetrate  from 
the  coast  into  the  interior.  It  is  stated  by  the  Swedish  newspapers  that 
OTio  of  the  objects  of  the  expedition  is  to  discover  traces  of  the  old 
Norso  colonies  of  the  middle  ages,  planted  in  985  a.d,,  by  Erik  tho  lieS. 
and  his  sucoessoi'S,  which  were  destroyed,  it  ia  supposed  by  an  invasion 
of  Esquimaux,  in  the  fourteenth  century  after  a  flouriBhiug  existence  of 
three  centuries  and  a  half.  Baron  Nordonskiold  does  not,  it  ia  said, 
agree  with  Graah  in  fixing  the  eitea  of  tho  colonies  on  the  west  coast, 
but  is  inclined  to  beliove  that  they  are  to  be  found  in  East  Greenland. 
The  expedition  will  be  equipped  for  all  emergencies  and  will  be  aooom-, 
panied  by  a  stafT  of  surveyors,  naturalists,  and  other  scientific  men.  It 
is  to  sail  in  May  next;  Mr.  Oscar  Dickson,  the  munificent  and 
indefatigable  promoter  of  all  Arctic  enterprise  in  Sweden,  has  ofierod  to 
defray  the  cost,  and  the  king  is  taking  a  lively  inteirest  in  the  project. 
Mr.  Dickson  intends  to  apply  to  the  Swedish  parliament  for  tho  grant  of 
a  gunboat  for  the  expedition.  ^| 

The  Danish  Arctic  ExpeditioUt— In  our  report  of  the  meeting  of  the 
Swedish  Geographical  Society,  at  Stockholm,  of  the  Ifith  December 
(p.  176),  will  be  found  some  important  remarks  of  Baron  Nordeuskiold 
regarding  tho  present  position  of  the  Danish  expedition  in  the  Di/nipAnrt,  fl 
which  according  to  the  latest  direct  news  was  frozen  up[in  the  Kara  Sea  in 
September  last.  Baron  Nordenskield  there  expresses  the  opinion  that  tho 
Dijmphna^  as  well  as  the  Dutch  meteorological  expedition  in  the  Varna, 
have  gone  on  and  reached  their  destination  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei. 

The  Masai  Country,— Mr.  J.  T.  Last,  of  Mamboia,  in  East  Central 
Africa,  who  had  already  made  a  successful  journey  through  the  Ngnni 
countiy  to  tho  borders  of  the  Masai,  has  on  a  second  escwi-sion  (in 
November  last)  passed  the  border  and  reached  some  of  the  villages  of  ^ 
this  remarkable  people.  The  part  visited  is  near  the  most  southerly  fl 
limits  of  the  wide  extent  of  country  inhabited  by  tho  Masai,  and  about 
120  miles  in  a  straight  line  from  the  coast  at  Pagani.  He  was  upon  tho 
whole  well  recjoived,  and  succeeded  in  gleaning  much  information  re- 
garding their  physique,  language,  customs,  social  condition,  and  the  best 
methods  of  dealing  with  them.  Tho  pure-blood  Masai  he  describee  as  a 
fine  race  of  people,  the  women  especially  very  fine  both  in  height  and 
build.  Their  forehead  is  high,  tho  lips  thin,  and  the  nose  long  and 
straight;  but  they  are  nearly  black,  and  have  short  crisp  hair.  We 
hope  to  publish  Sir,  Last's  account  in  detail  in  tho  next  number  of 
*  Proceedings.^ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  16T 

VatiTd  TribM  of  the  Zambesi.—- In  the  number  for  February  1883  of 
ike  'Ft<6cis  Historiqnes,'  a  Frenob  periodical  published  at  Brussels, 
appeuB  a  contribution  by  P^ro  Depelchin,  of  the  Society  of  the  Jesuits, 
leader  of  the  Boman  Gatholio  Mission  on  the  Zambesi.    In  June  1881  he 
bed  reached  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Chobe  and  Zambesi,  and  had 
opportunities  of  conferring  with  Messrs.  Westbeach  and  Walsh,  who 
ka^B  resided  there  for  mercantile  purposes  a  considerable  time,  and  are 
veil  ftoquainted  with  the  country,  the  people,  and  their  language.    Fdre 
Sepelchin  had  with  him  a  copy  of  Stanford's  map  of  1855,  and  Holub's 
contribution  to  the  Journal  of  the  Vienna  Geographical  Society  1879, 
and  the  same  author's  great  work,  *  Seven  Years  in  South  Africa.'    It 
■ay  be  added  that  the  P^re  is  a  man  of  experience  as  a  traveller,  having 
beea  eighteen  years  in  India. — He  maintains  that  the  following  tribes 
akme  are  found  on  the  Zambesi  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  confluence 
with  the  Chobe: — 1.  The  Ma-Nansa  or  Ma-Kalaka,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Zambesi,  opposite  to  the  embouchure  of  the  Daka  and  Matielsi. 
Th^  were  driven  forward  by  the  Ma-Tabele,  and  placed  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  the  Ba-Botse.     2.  The  Ma-Laya,  who  extend 
fitom  the  frontier  of  the  Ma-Nansa  as  far  as  the  Yictoria  Falls.    To  the 
north  of  them  are  the  Ma-Shukulombwe,  a  numerous  and  independent 
tribe,  but  harassed  by  the  Ba-Botse.     3.  The  Ma-Shubia  are  an  im- 
portant tribe,  who  inhabit  the  banks  of  the  Zambesi  as  far  as  Shesheke, 
tad  of  the  Chobe  as  far  as  Linyanti.     To  them  is  intrusted  the  ferry 
over  the  river  at  the  confluence.    4.  The  Ma-Totala,  famous  for  their 
•kill  in  working  iron,  are  found  to  the  north  of  Shesheke.    This  tribe 
is  identified  with  the  Ba-Nyeti,  which  name  appears  three  times  in 
Stanford's  map ;  but  this  word  means  only  "  workers  in  iron,'*  which  is 
not  the  speciality  of  any  one  tribe.     5.  The  Ba-Botse  or  Ma-Botse,  who 
tie  the  ruling  tribe,  are  established  in  the  great  valley  which  extends  to 
the  right  and  left  of  the  river  Malile.    The  kraal  of  the  chief,  Lebushi, 
n  called  Laroe.    6.  The  Ma-Ntchoia  dwell  in  the  north-east  of  the  valley 
of  the  Ba-Botse,  and  are  partly  independent,  and  partly  pay  tribute. 
7.  The  Ma-Mbimda  dwell  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Zambesi,  betwixt 
tbe  Ma-Ntchoia  and  the  Ba-Botse,    Stanford,  according  to  P^re  Depel- 
i^m^  is  wrong  in  placing  them  on  the  right  bank.    The  Ma-Mbunda 
are  still  sufficiently  strong  as  to  cause  serious  alarm  to  their  conquerors, 
the  Ba-Botse,  who  only  last  year  thinned  their  numbers  by  a  treacherous 
massacre.    8.  The  Ba-Libale  are  found  to  the  north-east  of  the  Ma- 
Mbonda  on  both  banks  of  the  Zambesi  up  to  its  source.    9.  To  the  north 
of  the  Ba-Libale  are  the  Ma-Pingula,  a  tribe  resembling  in  character  the 
Bushmen,  and  only  partially  subject  to  the  Ba-Botse.     10.  The  Ma-Hes 
poness^the  valley  of  the  river  Chobe  from  Linyanti  up  to  the  6th  degree 
of  S.  lat. — Such  are  the  tribes  who  are  subject  to  the  empire  of  the 
Ba-Botse.     The  Bo-Tonga,  who  dwell  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Zambesi 
from  the  kraal  of  Wanki  as  ficur  as  Moemba,  are  a  small  independent 


168 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


tribe. — Thre  DepelchiTi  states  that  he  went  over  the  names  of  the  twentj 
fonr  tribes  mentioned  by  Holub  with  Mr.  Westbeach,  ami  found  tha 
the  vernacular  terms  for  professions  had  been  entered  as  the  names  i 
separate  tribes :  e.  g.  the  Fishers,  the  Hunters,  and  such-like  appeared  in 
the  list  as  racial  divisions.  The  Pere  veaa  detained  at  Membwa,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Zambesi,  the  residence  of  the  sub-chief  Mgnnba,  before 
he  was  permitted  to  advance  to  the  royal  kraal  of  Lebushi,  the  chief  of 
the  Ba-Rotse,  and  ho  employed  his  forced  leisure  in  acquiring  the 
language,  and  confirms  the  oft-repeated  assertion  that,  though  each  tribe 
had  its  own  language,  they  all  spoke  the  intruding  Se-Kololo,  the 
language  of  the  former  rulers,  the  Ma-Kololo,  wlio,  though  they  had 
lost  their  power,  had  left  their  langtiage  as  the  lingua  franca  of  the 
country.  He  explains,  also,  that  the  Se-Kololo  is  a  dialect,  akin  to  the 
Se-Suto  and  Se-Ohuanaj  for  though  the  original  Ma-Kololo  were 
Ba-Suto,  they  incorporated  members  of  so  many  other  kindred  tribes, 
that  the  compound  dialect  called  Se-Kololo  is  intelligible  to  any  on©  who 
knows  the  Se-8uto  or  the  Se-Chuana,  As  a  proof  of  this,  he  mentions 
that  his  own  interpreter  knew  only  Se-Chuana»  and  that  when  he  asked 
the  flub-chief  Mgunba  what  the  So-Kololo  language  was,  he  instantly 
replied  the  8e-Chuana ;  and  he  knew  it  to  be  so,  because  one  of  his  wives 
was  a  Ba-Mangwato  from  Shoshong,  and  her  language  and  the  So-Kololo 
were  tho  same.  At  the  same  time,  so  strong  was  the  affinity  to  Sc-Suto,  that 
the  Pere  remarked  that  all  the  religious  and  educational  books  publighed 
in  Basutoland  would  be  of  use  on  the  Zambesi.  Brief  as  the  empire  of 
the  Ma-Kololo  had  been,  it  had  lasted  long  enough  to  stamp  the  new 
language  on  the  country.  The  Ma-Kololo  had  passed  away  as  a  ruling 
tribe,  but  the  &e-Kololo  remained  as  a  dominant  language.  ^ 

Mr,  F.  C.  Seloufl,  the  South  African  traveller,  has  since  his  return  to 
the  field  of  his  former  adventures,  made  another  journey  through 
northern  Matabele-land  to  the  Zambesi.  The  greater  part  of  the 
route  he  followed  is  quite  new,  and  the  map  he  has  sent  us,  which  wo 
hope  shortly  to  publish,  will  be  an  important  addition  to  our  knowledge 
of  this  part  cf  the  African  interior.  His  track  lay  chiefly  along  the 
valley  of  the  Hanyane  or  Panyame  river,  on  hie  outward  journey  striking 
the  Zambesi  near  the  mouth  of  the  Umscngaisi,  then  following  the 
southern  bank  of  the  Zambesi  to  Zumbo,  and  returning  to  his  hunting- 
camp,  near  the  Umfule,  by  a  southerly  course  crossing  all  the  tributaries 
of  the  Panyame  on  the  right  bank.  Ho  sufi'ered  terribly  during  the 
return  journey  from  himger  and  fever,  and  from  the  attacks  of  the 
tsetse-fly. 

Public  Schools  Friiea  ExamiiiatioQfi. — The  examinations  for  the 
Eoyal  Geographical  Society's  Prize  Medals  for  tho  year  1883  will  take 
place  simultaneously  at  the  invited  schools  on  Monday  the  19  th  of 
March.    The  special  subject  is  **  The  Dominion  of  Canada," 


(     169     ) 


BEPOBT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882-3. 

Fifth  MeeUng,  29th  January,  1883.— General  Sir  H.  0.  Rawunson. 
Vice-President,  in  the  Chair. 


fATiON. — The  Bcv.  William  Jlmnj  Fenney. 

noKS. — Charles  Bdton,  Esq.;  Jamts  A.  Campbdly  Esq.;  Frederick  Jod 
r,  Eaq. ;  Oliver  7'.  Duke,  m.d.  ;  WiUiatn  Oreenroooii,  Esq,;  JRev.  James  Henry 
fftmeock/  James  Frederick  Ilutton, Esq,;  Major  William  0,  Knox;  C. R.  Lindsay, 
Et^.j  James  Leslie  Main,  Esq.;  Hubert  Massie,  Esq.;  Evelyn  Richard  Ilugh 
foiktrd^  £»q.;  Charles  W.  Selwyn,  Esq.;  Henry  Soltau,  Esq.;  George  Crodand 
Tbyfor,  E$q. ;  Horatio  Warren,  Esq.;  Erntst  Augustus  White,  Es*}.}  Robert  Blake 
\^it^  Esq. ;  Henry  WUUum  Wimskursf,  Esq. 

The  pftper  of  the  evening  was : — 

"  Itinerary  Notes  of  Route  Surveys  in  Northern  Persia  in  1881  and  1883."  By 
I^«at.-Col.  Bcreaford  Lovett,  re.,  c.8.i.,  H.M.  Consul,  Astrabad 

Pablisbed  in  the  February  number,  arUe,  p.  57. 

la  opening  the  proceedings  the  Chairman  (Sir  Henry  Rawlinson)  said  that  in 
the  absence  of  Lord  Aberdare  he  had  been  invited  to  take  the  chair,  and  he  had 
^;raat  plcasoro  in  complying  with  the  invitation,  the  more  so  as  the  country  about 
which  a  papor  was  to  be  read,  was  one  in  the  vicinity  of  which  he  had  lived  for  many 
Tears  under  the  shadow  of  Mount  Damavand.  Previous,  however,  to  calling  upon 
Ooloncl  Lovt'tt  to  read  his  paper  he  had  two  announcementa  to  make :  one  was  with 
regvd  Uy  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  who  had,  in  grateful  acknowledgment  of  the  asaistaaoe 
which  the  Society  had  afforded  in  promoting  the  relief  expedition  sent  in  search  of 
the  Eira,  and  also  to  mark  the  interest  which  he  took  in  the  progress  of  geographical 
knowledge,  presented  them  with  lOOOZ.  for  the  purposes  of  general  exploration.  The 
elher  was  the  recent  return  to  India  of  one  of  the  native  explorers  whom  the  Survey 
Department  of  India  was  in  the  habit  of  sending  ont  into  countries  which  were 
inaccessible  to  EnglLih  travellers.  General  Walker  had  sent  to  the  Society  a  short 
ttooant  of  the  work  of  this  explorer,  which  would  be  published  in  the  February 
aomber  of  the  Society's  *  Proceedings '  (ijnte  p,  9S).  It  would  be  seen  that  one  of  the 
fesoitft  of  this  journey  was  the  determination  that  the  Sanpo  and  Irawodi  were 
different  atreama,  a  fact  of  great  importance  to  geography,  and  General  Walker 
miBt  be  congratulated  accordingly. 

•  the  termination  of  Colonel  Lovett's  paper — 

Del  Cqami'ain  said  he  had  visited  the  tract  which  Colonel  Lovett  had 
ribed,  but  he  should  not  have  addressed  the  meeting  if  it  had  not  been  that  their 
•lientiuD  had  been  directed  to  Mount  Damavand,  the  moat  important  peak  of  the 
Bburz  range.  It  was  ratbcr  surprising  to  him  that  there  was  no  absolute  certainty 
» to  itft  exact  height.  In  the  year  1BG2  he  joined  a  scientific  party  of  Italians  who 
proceeded  from  Tehran  with  the  view  of  scaling  the  mountain.  The  expedition  was 
■ent  out  by  the  King  of  Italy  to  the  Shah  of  Persia.  It  included  representatives  of 
rrery  branch  of  science :  many  of  them  came  from  the  University  of  Turin,  and 
though  the  mission  was  partly  a  diplomatic  one,  it  was  still  more  a  scientific  one. 
With  about  a  dozen  of  those  gentlemen  he  started  in  August  1862,  and  some  of  them 
snooeeded  in  getting  to  the  top  of  Mount  Damavand.  They  were  by  no  means  the 
fini  to  do  80.  Not  only  did  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  about  Ask  go  every  year 
to  the  top  to  collect  sulphur,  but  four  or  five  Europeans,  among  them  Sir  William 
^^T»ylour  Thomson,  and  Mr.  Ronald  F,  Thomson,  our  present  Minister  at  Tehran, 
■     1^0.  HL— March  1883.]  n 


170 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 


I 


had  also  been  to  tlie  top.  The  expedition  which  lue  (Colonel  Chatnpn.in)  accom- 
panied readied  Ask  in  alx>iit  two  daya.  They  went  as  far  as  they  possibly  could  on 
their  mules,  and  afcencied  about  12»000  feet  in  that  way.  They  slept  there  ;  and  the 
next  mornlag  ascende^l  on  the  s<mth  side,  where  the  snows  were  more  melted  away 
than  on  the  north.  They  were  recommeaded  not  tn  wear  boots,  bnt  ox-lndc  sandals 
with  the  hair  outside,  and  there  was  no  particular  difficulty  in  the  ascent ;  hut  out 
of  twelve  only  five  reached  the  top,  the  others  being  unable  to  withstand  the 
rarefaction  of  the  air,  which  was  severely  felt  by  all  tlic  party.  The  top  of  the 
moimtain  was  a  crater  filled  with  snow.  It  mi^ht  Ik?  said  that  the  volcano  wan 
extinct,  but  there  was  a  cave  very  near  the  top  where  the  heat,  a  little  way  down, 
was  very  great,  and  there  could  be  no  doubt  that  the  fires  were  still  slumbeHn^ 
inside.  He  took  a  barometer  with  him  and  made  what  he  thought  were  very  cAftfal 
observations  all  the  way  up,  but  to  his  great  dis3:ust  when  he  reached  the  top  he 
found  that  the  barometer  had  only  been  made  for  registering  the  height  of  smoJl 
mountains  like  Mont  Blanc,  and  the  quicksilver  did  not  show  at  all.  However,  he 
compared  it  with  the  instruments  brought  by  the  Italians,  and  found  what  his 
barometer  ought  to  have  marked,  and  calculated  accordingly.  His  calculations  were 
very  nearly  the  same  as  those  which  the  Italians  worked  out  later,  and  they  made 
the  height  of  the  mountain  19,260  feet.  Since  then  other  pentlemen  liad  ascended 
the  moantain.  One  friend  of  his  went  up  and  could  not  get  down  the  same  day- 
Evcntually  he  found  the  hot  cave  and  spent  the  night  there.  Ho  (Colonel  Champoin) 
crosse<l  over  the  spurs  of  the  mountain  about  two  years  ago  when  he  marched 
from  Meshid-i-Sir  to  Tehran,  a  distfl.nce  of  170  miles.  After  passing  Barfmsb  the 
road  became  an  excellent  one  nearly  into  Tehran.  There  was  a  lack  of  villages  on 
the  road,  and  twice  he  and  his  friend  had  to  sleep  in  the  open  air.  However,  the 
nights  were  very  fine,  and  they  did  not  stifTer  at  all. 

Colonel  C.  E.  Stewart  said  thathe  had  the  pleasure  of  accompanying  Colonel  Lovett 
on  his  journey  back  from  Persia,  and  b^d  travelled  over  a  good  deal  of  the  ground 
shown  in  the  map  before  the  meeting.  He  had  first  tried  to  meet  Colonel  Lovett  at 
Shahrud,  but  found  he  had  just  gone  to  Astrabad.  After  proceeding  to  Tehran,  and 
Eesht,  he  emMrketl  on  a  Russian  steamer  at  Enzelli,  the  port  of  Resht,  and  went  to 
Bandar  Gez,  at  the  south-eastern  comer  of  the  Caspian,  bnt  hero  also  he  misse*! 
Culonel  Lovett,  ns  he  had  left  by  a  steamer  two  days  previously  for  Uaku.  The  steamer 
in  whicli  he  travelled  had,  in  fact,  crossed  that  in  which  Colonel  Lovett  had  em- 
Iwirked.  From  Bandar  Gez  he  went  to  Chlkishliar  and  Krasnovodsk  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Caspian  Rea,  and  crossed  over  from  Krasnovodsk  to  Baku  on  the  western 
coast.  At  Baku  he  at  last  met  Colonel  Lovett  and  tbey  bad  a  very  amusing  journey 
together  to  Tifiis.  Tlie  railway  was  not  completed,  but  the  Russian  governor  most 
kindly  supjdied  them  with  tickets  gratis  to  travel  by  a  train  conveying  materials!. 
They  were  told  to  lie  at  the  station  by  11.30  a.m.,  and  they  entered  the  train  about 
that  time,  but  the  train  did  not  start  until  about  six  in  the  evening.  It  began  by 
moving  about  four  miles,  and  then  stopped  dead  for  a  long  time.  In  the  night  they  ] 
ran  into  a  truck  full  of  water  which  was  standing  on  a  very  rickety  bridge,  which  I 
had  been  put  up  as  a  temporary  expedient,  and  the  collision  very  nearly  brought  i 
down  the  bridge,  but  not  quite.  The  engine  took  a  rest  on  one  occasion  of  twelve 
boura  to  be  cleaned.  The  train  was  so  crowded  that  one  of  the  passengers  tried  to 
find  a  place  in  a  van  constructed  tn  carry  naphtha,  and  which  was  fiiill  of  that  liquid. 
At  last,  after  being  nearly  four  days  and  nigiits  in  a  very  crowded  third-class  carriage, 
they  were  delighted  to  find  themselves  close  to  Tiflis.  Colonel  Lovett  then  threw  h 
the  provisions  they  had  brought  with  them  out  of  the  window.  The  train  went  on  fl 
a  little  further,  and  then  suddenly  stoppod,  remaining  for  many  houns  so  they 
had  to  walk  back  along  the  Tme  and  look  for  their  discardeil  provisions,  and  were 


I 
I 

I 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS, 


171 


1«^»g 


^ 
^ 


glAd  to  recover  what  tliey  had  considered  stale  and  nnfit  to  eat.  After 
Tiflis,  they  crossed  the  Caucasus  in  a  diligence.  The  road  over  these 
lofty  OBOUftlains  is  a  splendid  monument  of  Russian  engineering  skill.  Mount 
Snmn,  Ibe  highest  peak  of  the  Caucasus,  is  considerably  higher  than  Damavand. 
TWra  mean  little  doubt  that  the  Caspian  hoA  at  one  time  a  much  greater  exten- 
lAott  thaa  it  has  at  present.  The  southern  and  eastern  coasts  are  very  low,  and  a  rise 
d^fom  feet  would  flood  a  large  extent  of  country.  On  the  eastern  shore,  between 
CbflritMty  and  Krasnovodsk  the  coast  is  so  low,  that  when  a  strong  westerly  gale 
(Mfuli^  the  sea  flootis  a  considerable  extent  of  country  which  is  usually  dry.  He 
kliered  that  a  portion  of  the  Kara  Eum  Desert  was  once  the  bed  of  an  inland  aea 
vbkh  was  probably  connected  with  the  Caspian.  Mr.  Lessar,  the  Ruasian  engineer 
«!io  hant  taken  levels  for  the  line  of  railway  that  is  proptsed  to  be  made  from  Kizil 
inat  to  Sarakhs,  and  who  is  the  best  authority  on  this  subject,  says  that  there  is 
llllt  or  no  rise  in  the  elevation  of  the  land  from  the  Caspian,  and  that  he  believes 
ikk  U  levels  were  taken,  many  localities  would  be  found  in  the  trans-Caspian  desert 
Ifwer  than  the  Caspian.  That  the  level  of  this  sea  has  varied  very  much,  even  in 
kjltdtical  times,  we  have  abundant  evidence.  He  had  heard  of  a  boat  and  some 
aoborv  (ound  buried  ficvon  miles  from  the  present  C4>ast.  The  Caspian  contained 
■Ut  and  many  other  animals  which  are  only  found  in  Arctic  or  very  cold  regions, 
Ibe  fish  of  this  sea  arc  more  Arctic  than  the  {ositionof  the  sea  would  at  all  warrant. 
G«&etal  Sir  Frederic  Qoldsmid  said  that  he  had  had  the  pleasure  of  travelling 
With  Colonel  Lovett  from  Sharud  to  Tehran  by  the  lower  country,  hut  he  had  not 
pattrated  the  hilla.  With  regard  to  Russian  merchants  being  found  in  various 
parta  of  Persia,  he  thought  that  could  be  very  easily  accounted  for  by  the  proximity 
<jf  Russia  to  Persia.  U  Russian  Tiflis  were  English  Manchester,  and  Astrakhan  were 
(Bugnw,  he  was  quite  certain  that  they  would  see  the  country  overrun  by  English- 
wa  *nd  Scotchmen  in  all  directions.  He  only  wondered  that  there  were  so  few 
BobUh  merchants  in  the  north  of  Persia.  Perhaps  if  British  India  had  been  con- 
lifaotts  to  Persia,  which  it  might  have  been  not  long  ago,  there  would  have  been  a 
pod  many  more  Indian  traders  in  Persia  than  at  present. 

Tlio  Cha£BMAN  (Sir  Henry  Rawlinson)  said  he  had  some  personal  acquaintance 
ritfa  the  country  described,  but  bad  very  little  to  add  to  what  Colonel  Lovett  had 
M  gaphically  stated.  The  description  given  in  the  paper  woa  very  accurate,  and 
in  many  respects  very  interesting.  He  Ivad  not  followed  the  circuitous  track 
whidi  C»ilonel  Lovett  had  made  through  the  motmtains,  but  he  had  travelled 
If  the  direct  route  from  Tehran  through  the  hills  to  Chardeh  many  years  ago,  in 
oDojany  with  Sir  Henry  Bethnne  and  the  Persian  army  under  the  command  of  the 
Shih,  when  marching  against  the  Turkomans,  He  had,  however,  no  particular 
recollections  of  the  country  which  would  entitle  him  to  criticise  Colonel  Lovett's 
tsmarks.  He  was  much  struck  with  the  fact  that  a  large  plateau  filled  with 
ojnier^hells  had  been  discovered  on  the  top  of  the  mountains.  Of  course  there 
mat  Iiave  been  an  enormous  upheaval  there;  the  oyster-shells  must  have  been 
Iqoxited  when  that  particular  locality  was  under  water,  and  the  height  at  which  it 
sow  was  made  it  a  very  surprising  instance  of  elevation.  The  shores  of  the  Caspian, 
howrer,  were  notoriously  in  a  constant  state  of  elevation  and  depression.  The  city 
rf  Abi«kun,  for  instance,  which  was  at  one  time  a  flourishing  place  near  the  mouth 
the  GiSrgin,  was  afterwards  submerged  50  feet  under  water;  then  it  came  up 
the  surface  again,  and  the  remains  were  still  visible  at  Gnmishtf*ppch.  It  was 
particular  phenomenon  of  spontaneous  elevation  which  appeared  recently  to 
led  the  Russians  to  despair  of  ever  getting  the  Oxus  water  back  again  to  the 
For  some  time  it  seemed  to  be  a  very  easy  operation,  but  now  that  they 
jurveyed  the  whole  line  and  taken  the  levels,  they  were  beginning  to  despair,  and 

N  2 


m 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 


did  not  think  they  would  ever  be  ahle  to  keep  up  a  conlinuous  stream  of  watc 
from  Urgenj  to  the  old  mouth  of  the  river.  As  for  the  Caspian  havi 
linoio  extended  somewhat  to  the  east,  very  possibly  that  was  so.  The  Oxua  formerly 
Kin  into  it  by  two  or  three  different  arms,  aod  there  was  probobly  a  large  lake,  thej 
Aria  Palus,  some  300  or  4O0  miles  inland,  but  certainly  the  sea  had  not  jd  thi 
hibtorical  period  uver  jjenetrated  to  that  distance.  In  ftict  there  was  a  considcrablf 
ran^e  of  hills^  the  Little  Balkan,  running  up  to  the  old  bed  of  the  river  from  the 
great  range  <i>f  the  Akhal  and  Turkoman  country.  And  how  the  sea  could  have  golj 
over  that  range  it  was  difficult  to  see.  To  an  historical  ethnologist  the  countrj 
through  which  Colonel  Lovctt  had  been  travelling  was  of  very  great  interest.  II 
was  the  region  in  which  the  Magian  religion  took  its  later  form,  being  the  link ' 
between  Bactria  on  the  one  side  and  Azerbijan  on  the  other.  Here  dwelt  the  old 
Mediaa  Majgi,  and  from  here  the  religion  of  Zoroaster  jjeuetratcd  into  Azerbijin, 
taking  its  particular  form  in  the  Elburz  Mountains.  The  capital  of  the  country  was, 
indeed,  the  very  city  which  Colonel  Lovett  had  mentioned  under  tbo  name  of 
Finizkuh.  In  ancient  times  that  city  was  called  rstunawend,  taking  its  name  from 
Osthanes,  who  was  the  successor  of  Zoroaster,  and  who  accompanied  Xerxes  in  hi|^| 
expedition  to  Greece,  lie  was  the  chief  Magus,  and  that  title  under  its  Persiair™ 
form  of  Mazma^hdn  was  retaine<i  by  the  chiefs  of  the  country  up  to  the  time  of 
the  Arabian  conquest.  The  region  about  Mount  Damavand  was  quite  a  sac 
name  in  the  Bundehesh,  the  book  of  the  old  Zoroastrians,  and  it  woxdd  be  vei 
interesting  to  thoroughly  examine  the  present  locality  of  Firuzkuh.  He  had 
over  the  fort  himself,  and  he  believed  Colonel  Lovett  also  had,  and  he  had 
enough  to  show  him  that  it  required  a  great  deal  of  examination.  There  were, 
for  instance,  a  numlier  of  caves  ia  iho  hill  on  which  the  fort  stood  which  would  be 
well  worth  examining,  and  Major  Napier  heard  of  rock  inscriptions  in  the  bed  of  the 
river  close  by.  The  city  of  Firuzkuh  was  the  place  from  which  a  colony  went 
out,  and  founded  the  famous  city  of  the  same  name  in  Afghanistan,  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Hari-rud  valley  being  called  Firuzkuhis  at  the  i)resentday.  In  the  Zendavesta 
these  great  mountains  were  called  the  Hara-berezat,  which  had  been  corrupted  into 
Elburz.  The  word  meant "  the  lofty  mountains,"  and  was  apidieil  to  the  sacred  lands  of 
the  old  Zoroastriane.  This  was  a  subject  which  probably  hardly  came  within  the 
scope  of  the  Geographical  Society,  but  as  it  gave  an  additional  interest 
country  which  Colonel  Lovett  had  described  he  had  thought  he  might  venture 
make  these  few  observations. 


to  theJ 
ure  t<fl 


Sixth  Meetingi  I2th  Februanj,  1888.— The  Right  Hon.  Lohd  Abertaiuc, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

ElkctionS,— i^rttof  Angela,  Esq.;    WillMm  Camphell,  Esq.;    Charles  A. 
Dkkin&ou,   Esq. ;    Dcv<reHx   Alfred    Ji.    Eixince,    Esq. ;     Mujor  J.   A.    Sten 
Mackenzie;   WHUum  II.  A'ea/e,  Esq, 

The  following  paper  was  read : — 

"  Mr.  B.  Leigh  Smith's  Second  Voyage  in  the  Eira  to  Franz -Josef  Land." 

In  the  absence  of  Jlr,  Leigh  Smith  the  jwiper  was  read  by  Mr.  W.  H,  Ncale,  M.n.,^ 

Surgeon  to  the  Eira  Expeditiou.    It  will  be  published,  with  discussion  and  map,  in 

the  next  number  of  the  '  PrtKieedings.' 


(     173     ) 


PKOCEEDINGS  OF  FOBEIGK  SOCIETIES. 

kphioal  Society  of  Pari«— Febraary  2nd,  1883 :  M.  de  Qdatrefaqrs 

litute)  in  the  Chair. — A  letter  from  the  Societd  ile  GfograpUie  Commorciale 

Bofdeatuc^  reminding  the  Society  that  at  the  Geographical  Coogreas  held  last  year 

k  thftt  town,  it  was  decided  that  a  certain  Dumber  of  resolutions,  adopted  by  that 

ong^tM,  «hould  be  submitted  for  consideration  to  all   the  French  geographical 

iGCietieSi  and  therefore  claimed  the  attention  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paria. 

imoog  iheae  resolutions,  one  was   mentioned  relating  to  the  establishment  of  a 

{•nodicJil  to  be  the  common  organ  of  all  the  French  geographical  societies ;  another, 

nfemog  to  the  admission  of  delegates  from  the  above-mentioned  societies  to  the 

OMtiiig  of  the  learned  societies,  which  is  held  every  year  at  Easter,  at  the  Sorbonne, 

ader  tlie  auspices  of  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction ;  and  a  third,  regarding  the 

fcnofttion  in  each  geographical  uociety  of  a  permanent  section,  which,  during  the 

iatervals  between  the  meetings  of  the  International  Geographical  Congresses,  should 

ifply  itself  to  the  consideration  of  all  important  questions,  and  work  towards  a 

flommon  end. — ^The  Minister  of  Naval  and   Colonial    Affairs   forwarded  several 

jBB])hlet8  by  MM.  Dr.  Neiss,  A.  Gautier,  Septans,  and  Gaurroy.  published  in  Cochin 

"         and  having  reference  to  the  country  of  the  Mois. — The  Crown  Lands  and 

ion  Oflice,at  Adelaide,  in  the  province  \>i  Victoria  (Australia),  transmitted  a 

QDnection  of  map*,  list.s,  and  statistical  documents  roUtivo  to  that  colony. — M,  Alfre<l 

Ftenin-Didot,  head  of  the  well-known  jmblishing  firm  of  that  nanie,  in  forwarding 

K>  tt»e  Society  the  edition  of  the  *  Geographie  de  Ptol<?m6e '  published  by  his  father 

from  the  manui?cript  of  Mount  Athos,  stated  that  in  the  "  Bibliothdque  des  Classiques 

Owes,''  published  by  his  firm,  there  will  appear  the  most  complete  edition  of  Greek 

Geography,  in  three  volumes,  one  of  which  will  be  for  maps ;  M.  Miiller,  the  Greek 

idloUr,  has,  it  apj)ears,  been  working  at  it  for  fifteen  years. — M.  Leon  de  Roeny, 

Ptdessor  at  the  School  of  Oriental  Languages,  presented  the  Society  with  an  orogra- 

fiucol  map  of  Roumania,  which  ho  has  published,  together  with  the  orthography  of 

MtiTe  niimea,  the  results  of  a  journey  in  that  country. — M.  Romanet  du  Caillaud, 

flttfaorof  a  work  on  Tong-King,  which  the  late  M.  Gambetta  was  engaged  in  reading 

ftt  the  moment  of  his  death  (for  the  book  was  found  open  on  his  study-table),  having 

esamiti«d  a  map  published  in  the  'Mittheiluugen'  of  Leipzig  (1881),  and  another, 

•bich  is  in  Petermann  (1873),  stated  that  the  Sino-Annamite  frontier  there  traced 

« la  o>ii traduction  with  the  maps  publishetl  by  the  Je^suit  Fathers  in  the  eighteenth 

cotury  from  Chinese  documents.     He  instanced  especially  the  village  of  La-Fou, 

«^h  the  Grerman  maps  just  mentioned  place  in  the  middle  of  the  Chinese  territory, 

•fcirea*  from   '  Les  Lettres  ^fiantes  et  curieuses  des  missionaires '  (eighteenth 

cmtury),  it  appears  that  this  place  was  a  tributary  of  the  crown  of  Anoam,  as  well 

I        nof  the  rest  of  China,     He  went  on  to  point  out  that  this  subject  is  important  now 

^B  tint  France  is  about  to  give  proof  of  her  authority  at  Tong-King. — It  was  annoimced 

^L^kl^  the  Rogozinski  Expedition  to  Africa,  which  has  started  to  explore  tlie  Liba 

HtataB,  bad  embarked  at  Havre  on  the  13th  December,  1882,  its  destination  being 

^^B  ialand  of  Fernando  Po,     The  vessel  which  conveys  it.  La  Lucie  MargueriU^  a 

logger  of  100  tons  burden,  should  have  called  at  Madeira,  but  the  Paris  correspondent 

flf  this  expedition  writes  that,  not  having  received  any  news  dated  from  that  Island, 

he  supposes  that  the  expedition  has  made  straight  for  Santa-Isabella,  the  port  of 

Fflroando  Po.     He  does  not  expect  any  more  news  for  a  month  or  six  woeks, — By  a 

ielt«r  dated  St.  Louis  (Senegal),  8lh  January,  the  Society  was  informed  that  Dr. 

Bajol,  who  started  for  Haul-Galam  on  the  14th  November,  1882,  in  company  with 

Jl.  Noirot,  had  arrived  on  the  2Uth  at  Salde,  where  he  had  quitted  the  despatch- 


» 


L 


174 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


boat)  which  bad  conveyed  him  up  to  th&t  poiot.  From  that  time  no  ne^i^  has  been 
received  from  him. — About  tlie  end  of  January  1883,  a  communication  was  received 
from  South  America  to  the  effect  that  M.  Tbouar,  who  intends  to  explore  the  Pilco- 
mayo,  commencing  from  its  source,  hatl  arrived  at  Medeliin  on  the  12th  December, 
1882 ;  that  from  there  he  was  going  to  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota,  then  to  Quito  ;  that,  after 
a  short  stay  in  each  of  these  two  towns,  he  was  to  have  continued  towards  the  south, 
skirting  the  Andes,  as  far  as  Chuquiaaca,  where  his  real  journey  will  commence. — 
Colonel  (now  Major-General)  Venukoff  intimated  that  General  Tillo  was  about  to 
publish  shortly  the  works  of  the  late  M.  Smimow  under  the  form  of  an  isodynamic 
map  of  Europejui  Russia ;  that  he  (General  Tillo)  was  at  work  uix>n  a  catalogue  of 
altitudes  of  4000  stations  on  the  Russian  radways,  to  oorrespood  with  his  atlas  of  the 
sections  of  these  niilroade,  which  was  honoured  with  a  gold  medal  at  the  Venice  Con- 
gress. Also  tliat  Colonel  Barahoscb^  in  the  course  of  his  expedition  in  Manchuria,  has 
matlo  many  topogmphical  surveys  and  interesting  researches  on  the  geography  of 
the  slofjes  north  and  east  of  the  Tchan-pfe-Tchan,  which  are  at  pi-esent  so  little  known. 
Lastly,  the  writer  described  tlie  progress  of  steam-navigation  in  the  basin  of  the  Obi»j 
where  as  many  as  fifty  steam  vessels  could  he  counted  in  1882,  whereas  in  li 
there  were  but  two. — M.  Rene  Roy,  who  generally  concerns  himself  with  the  polar 
regions,  pTcsentod  translations  of  two  Ittters  received  from  Lieutenant  Wissmaan, 
who  has  Just  accomplishtd  a  journey  across  the  African  continent.  The  first  of  theao 
letters  is  dated  from  Kidimba»  6°  8'  40"  lat.  S.,  22°  (?)  long.  E.  (not  yet  calculated), 
17th  November,  1881 ;  the  st^cond  was  written  from  Cairo  on  5th  January,  1883. 
From  these  letters  it  apjiears  that,  on  the  29th  January,  1882,  the  traveller  had 
crossed  the  Lxihilash,  5**  13'  lat.  S.,  and  at  the  same  time  the  Saakuru,  for  he  had 
learnt  there  that  these  are  one  and  the  same  river,  which  has  a  different  name  on  the 
east  and  west  banks.  This  river  is  500  feet  broad  and  flows  quietly  between  hanks, 
of  sandstone,  then,  when  the  valley  widens,  it  traverses  dense  forests  as  far  as  the  Congo. 
The  sovuces  of  the  Sankuru  are  the  Lubiiauzi  and  the  Luvembi.  From  Lubi  tof 
Tanganyika  Lieutenant  WiBsmaun  found  a  degraded  race  of  jjeople  called  Batua,  who 
with  their  thin  bodies  present  a  hideous  appearance.  They  are  destitute  of  culture  and 
industry,  the  use  of  iron  being  unknown  among  them  except  for  pointing  their  arrows. 
The  Lufiubu  is  not  identical  with  the  Kazubu  as  Stanley  had  atateil.  The  traveller 
made  an  excursion  of  several  days  to  the  Lukuga  river,  wluch  enabled  him  to  settle 
the  uncertainties  relative  to  this  interesting  watercourse,  so  often  spoken  of.  Lastly,  ^ 
M.  Wissmann  had  a  most  cordial  reception  from  the  chief  Mirambo,  who  ordered  an  H 
or  to  be  roasted  and  two" bottles  of  champagne  opened  in  his  honour. — In  conclusion, 
a  letter  was  read  from  Dr.  Ch.  Colin,  naval  surgeon  in  the  Western  Soudan.  The 
doctor  formed  part  of  tho  Derrien  mission  to  Senegal  His  communication  wa* 
chiefly  an  explanation  of  iho  ]>hotograpluc  views  wliich  ho  has  brought  busk  with 
him,  and  which  were  exhibited  to  the  audience  by  means  of  oxy-hydrogen  lig^t, 
the  views  representing  the  scenery  and  general  features  of  the  country. 

February  16th,  1883 :  Dr.  Haky  in  the  Chair. — The  Chairman  announced 

that  only  one  of  tlie  resolutions  which  were  adopted  at  the  Bordeaux  CJongress  and 
had  to  be  submitted  for  approbation  to  the  French  Geographical  Societies,  had 
been  approved  of  by  the  Central  Commission  of  the  Society  of  Paris,  viz.  the  one*  ^ 
concerning  the  establishment  of  a  geographical  section  at  the  congress  of  th&  ^ 
learned  societies,  annually  held  at  the  Sorbonno  about  Easter-time,  under  the 
presidency  of  (he  Grand  Master  of  the  University.  It  was  then  announced  that 
the  general  meeting  of  the  Society  for  the  distribution  of  prizca  would  be  held 
in  the  second  fortnight  of  April,  when  gold  medals  would  be  awarded  to  the 
Gallieni  and  Derrien  missions,  and  the  Eoquette  prize  lo  Lieutenant  Scliwatka,  for 
hifl  explorations  in  King  William's  Land,    The  Chairman  also  auQounced  the  opening 


1 


d 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOKEIGN  SOCIETIES. 


176 


I 


I 


axhibitioa  at  the  Museum  of  the  TrocAdero,  organised  by  IL  D.  Gharaay,  and 

Mnprifting  the  impressiona  and  mouldings  of  tlie  tnonuments  visited  by  him  in 
Tooitim. — M.  Ch.  Gauthiot  read  some  news  from  Senegal  extracted  from  letters 
d«)ed  January  17th  aud  23rd,  from  which  it  appears  that  the  works  of  the  St.  Louis- 
IMcar  Railway  are  actively  proceeding,  and  that  in  less  than  three  years  the  line 
•ill  be  opened  for  IraflBc    The  king  of  Cayor  having  refused  to  allow  the  railroad 
to  jMut  over  bis  territory,  it  had  been  necessary  to  make  a  military  demonstration, 
which  had  been  successful.    Forts  will  be  erected  to  protect  the  works.    Also,  that 
Colonel  ik»rgQis>I>esborde8  had  taken  posse^jbion  of  MurgiUa,  which  he  had  declared 
a(r«0  town,  and  independent  of  Ahmada ;  the  people  had  accepted  all  the  conditions 
iBpoodi  upon  them. — A  communication  was  received  from  General  Venukoflf  relative 
toieTeral  expeditions  now  preparing  iu  Russia.     In  the  first  place,  there  u  a  hydro- 
gnpkical  expeditioD,  its  destination  being  the  Gulf  of  Obi;  anofuer,  which  will  be 
^inCtcd  by  Colonel  Prejevalsky,  who  has  given  up  his  journey  to  Ea^Jlem  Turkiatan 
Hid  Tibet,  will  start  to  survey  the  frontier  between  Siberia  and  Mongolia,  which 
iuui  been  fixed  155  years  ago,  but  was  a  little  uncert;ua  aud  vague.    The  writer 
further  states  that  a  canal  ia  to  be  excavated  shortly  between  the  affluents  of 
•od  those  of  the  Yenisei  in  order  to  establiiih  water  communication  between 
^^^  __        rivers.     There  will  then  be  in  Siberia  a  water-way  extending  from  Tinmen 
to  stalchta,  a  distance  of  2796  miles.     Unfortunately,  however,  rmvigation  there 
will  never  be  possible  for  more  than  125  days  in  the  year. — M.  Leesar  gave  some 
iaformation  about  hia  last  journey  in  the  mountains  of  Dereghez  and  Kelat,  of  which 
lie  ii  preparing  a  detailed  description  ;  he  hopes  to  be  able  to  set  to  work  and  iiniKh 
\m  map  of  Turkomania. — Dr.  Montano,  who  has  been  invited  by  the  Toulouso 
Uoog7a|jhical  Society  to  read  a  paper  on  his  travels  in  Oceania,  presented  the  first 
Qtuubers  of  the  bulletin  uf  this  i^iety,  which  he  was  commiisisioaed  to  offer  to  the 
Siicicly  of  Paris-     The  Society  of  Toulouse  has  only  been  establwhed  eight  months, 
aaJ  already  numbers  540  members.     M.  J.  B.  Paiiuier,  Secretary  of  the  Society, 
expUined  the  cartographical  processes  which  M.  Eugene  Guillemin  has  employed 
in  preparing  his  relievo-map  of  France;  the  map  was  on  view  in  the  hall.     This 
mtlbod  has  the  double  advantage  of  being  scientific  aud  at  the  same  time  expre^ive. 
As  regards  specially  the  represenUuion  of  the  relief  of  the  ground,  it  is  not  often  that 
«ilher  geographical  or  topographical  maps  present  this  characteristio.     The  remarks 
modo  by  M.  Paquiur  on  this  subject  will  bo  inserted  in  the  report  of  the  meetings. — 
JA,  G.  Depping,  in  tlio  name  of  M.  K.  Cortambert,  who  was  unable  to  be  present  at 
ilie  meeting,  read  a  letter  (sent  in  November  1882)  to  M.  Cortambert  by  a  French 
naturalist,  Mr.  L.  Petit,  who  has  been  settled  several  years  at  Landana  (on  the 
wvstem  coast  of  Africa),  wlicre  he  ia  coUectiug  natural  history  specimens.     During  the 
mooths  of  July  and  August  tlie  writer  had  made  an  excursion  into  the  upper  parts  of 
the  river  Chiloaugo,  which  is  sufficiently  navigable  from  the  coast  of  Loango  as  far 
M  Gouingc  or  Gouinege,     Toumby,  where   the  traveller  halted,  is  a  village  of 
ooosiderable  im}X)rtancc,  situated  upon  an  eminence  in  the  midst  of  mountains  and 
thick  forests.     M.  Petit  was  present  at  the  funeral  rites  of  a  native  chief  who  had 
be«n  dead  a  year,  and  whose  Ixxly  had  been  preserved  since  that  time  in  his  dwelling, 
fumigatod  and  wrapped  in  bandages.    The  prince  of  the  country,  he  says,  is  only 
buried  when  his  successor  is  nominated.      The  body,  incloseil  in  an  immense  case 
covered  with  stuffs,  was  lowered  into  a  spacious  grave.    The  traveller  was  told  that 
ooe  of  the  eight  Avives  of  the  decejuetl,  Nvho  had  been  accused  of  adidtcry,  had,  after 
the  death  of  her  husband,  been  buried  alive ;  also  that  in  this  same  district  run- 
away slaves,  when   caught,  are  burned  alive.     M,   Petit   had  collected  several 
qMcimeoa  of  gorillas,  and  was  about  to  start  upon  a  hunting  expeiUtion  in  pursuit 
of  thia  animal,  about  which  he  promises  to  send  some  accurate  information.    The 


176 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


goriUa  ia  not,  according  to  him,  so  terrible  as  we  had  been  led  to  believe.  The  animal 
inhabits  the  district  of  Ijoango  only,  and  is  found  in  a  series  of  forests  runniog  parallel 
to  the  coast* — M.  Virlet  d'Aouat  offered  aome  observations  on  the  orthography 
of  geographical  names;  ho  referred  to  the  geograpbical  and  statistical  dictionary 
by  Adrien  Guibert,  published  thirty  years  ago,  which  preserves  the  original  ortho- 
graphy of  the  nameH  of  countries  and  towns. — M.  A.  Bellot,  naval  lieutenant, 
brother  of  M,  Keri6  Bellofc,  who  perished,  as  we  know,  in  an  Arctic  expedition  &e:it 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Fraukliii,rcad  a  full  account  of  the  expedition  of  the  Jiannifttc, 
to  which  he  added  some  iuformatiou  on  the  circumpolar  stations.*  M.  H.  do  Bize- 
raont,  captain  of  a  frigate,  remarked  that  the  ship  Jeaunftte  had  arrived  full  lat«  at 
Herald  IsUnd,  and  that  that  had  been  the  weak  point  of  the  expedition.  However, 
the  route  had  l>een  well  chosen,  and  there  would  l>e  perhaps  cause  to  make  the 
attempt  again,  care  being  tukou  to  establish  first  of  all  a  provision  depot,  either  at 
Herald  Island  or  at  Wrangell  Island. — A  discussion  then  arose  npon  this  subject 
between  MM.  A.  Bellofc,  de  Biaemontj  Ren^  Eoy,  and  Maunoir,  which  terminated 
tJie  proceedings. 

Geographical  Society  of  Stockholm.— December  16th,  1882:  Commander 
Aug.  Fuikh,  President,  in  the  Chair, — The  President  announced  that  the  Society 
had  received  an  invitutiou  from  the  Italian  Geographical  Society  to  parti cijiate  in  the 
discussion  of  the  International  question  of  an  initial  meridian  for  calculating  longi- 
tudes as  well  as  time.  A  committee,  consisting  of  Professors  Nordenskiold  and 
Gylden,  with  Ckinsul  Elfving,  had  been  appointed,  and  they  had  commissioned  Pro- 
fessor Gyld^n  to  draw  up  the  Society's  report, — Professor  Gylden  made  some  obser- 
vations on  ojJinidtstant  mean  time.  —Professor  Nordenskiold  then  delivered  an  address 
on  the  probable  whereabouts  of  the  Dijmphna  and  the  Vamu.  The  speaker  com- 
menced by  mentioning  the  exf>editions  which  for  different  purposes  bail  entered  the 
Kara  Sea  during  tlie  year.  Thoy  were,  firstly,  the  A.  E.  Nord^nsJcjiild,  belonging 
to  M.  Sibiriakoff,  with  a  cargo  of  merchamiise  for  the  Yenisei,  and  the  Vurna  bound 
for  Port  Dickson,  with  tho  Dutch  Meteorological  Exi>editton  onboard;  and  lastly, 
the  Dijmphna,  commanded  by  Lieut.  Hovgaard,  wlio  intended  first  to  proceed  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Yenisei,  then  follow  the  coast  to  Cape  Chelyuskin,  and  at  last  attempt 
to  penetrat^j  northwards  along  the  east  coast  of  Franz-Josef  I^nd.  Some  other 
vessels  had  also  visited  the  seas  around  Novaya  Zemlya  during  the  summer,  among 
which  were  tliose  sent  from  England  for  the  rescue  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  his  party. 
As  was  generally  known  this  gentleman  had  been  comixilled  to  winter  at  Franz-Josef 
Land,  and  at  a  point  further  north  in  the  eastern  hemisphere  than  any  previous  exj)e- 
liition,  LTp  to  that  time  the  Swedish  Expedition  of  1872-73  had  wintered  furthest 
north  in  this  pju-t  of  the  world.  The  winter  had  passed  verj'  happily ;  while,  without 
the  loss  of  a  sinple  life,  the  gallant  explorer  had  penetrated  with  boats  the  ice-floes 
between  FranK-.Iosef  Land  and  Novaya  Zemlya  to  Mutoishkin  Straits,  where  the 
party  was  met  by  f>ir  Allen  Young,  sent  to  its  rescue.  Mr,  Smith's  journey  from 
Franz-Josef  Land  to  Malotahkin  Shar  in  l)oats  showed  that  the  sea  must  have  been 
very  free  from  ice  north  of  Novaya  J^cmlya  during  1882,  while,  according  to  state- 
ments made  by  Russian  whalers,  the  eea  south  of  the  Waigats  and  Kolgujeff 
Islands  (o  the  Petschoni  had  been  more  full  of  ice  tlian  during  any  of  tlie  last  thirty 
years.  This  was  the  cause  of  the  unsuccessful  attempts  of  the  NorJensJgdld  And  the 
Louise  to  bring  merchandise  to  the  Siberian  rivers.  The  first  of  these  to  return  was 
the  NurdenskjoM,  which  was  commanded  by  Captain  H.  C  Johannesen,  who  had 
charge  of  the  steamer  Lena  to  Yakutiik  in  the  Vt'ga  Expedition.  Captain  Johan- 
nesen  had  had  several  accidents  on  board,  and  after  battling  with  the  ice  all  the 


See  the  nottcQ  with  his  map  in  the  quarterly  BnUdin, 


I 


summer^  returned  in  September  to  Norway.    From  the  8th  to  the  16th  Aogust 
he  had  been  in  the  company  of  the  Dympfmay  while  both  were  trying  to  get  into 
th«  Kara  Sea  thnDUgh  the  Waigats  Straits.     Later  information  of  the  Dij'mphna, 
»  weU  as  the  larna,  was  brought  by  Captain  Dallmann,  of  the  German  steamer 
lonwe.    He  brought  a  report  from  Lieutenant  i{ovgaaril,  dated  September  22nd,  in 
which  be  stated  that  the  Dijmphna  had  succeeded  ia  reaching  the  Kara  Sea,  by  the 
KwaGate,  and  was  proceeding  in  an  open  *'  lead ''  along  the  coast,  when  he  observe*! 
two  rosels  fast  in  the  ice,  and  in  consequence  of  guns  being  fired  from  one  of  them, 
which  were  taken  for  signals  of  distress,  he  went  to  their  assistance  and  penetrated 
iQto  the  pack.    During  the  night  this  began  drifting,  and  the  vessel  became  icc> 
bound.    Lieutenant  Hovgaard,  in  conclusion,  stated  that  had  he  not  been  thus  led  to 
leaTeopen  water,  he  would  without  difficulty  have  reached  Port  Dickson,  his  wintor- 
(jntrtrra.     The  two  vessels  were  the  Louise  and  the  Varna,     The  speaker  then  pro- 
ceeded to  state  that  lately  alarming  rumours  had  been  spread  by  the  Russian  press 
nUtive  to  the  safety  of  the  Dijmphna,  in  one  case  to  the  effect  that  the  vessel  had 
be«&  M«j  by  Samoyedes  in  the  ice,  in  another  that  a  wreck,  believed  to  be  that  of 
\ht])ijntp}ma,hdA  been  discovered  on  the  coast  of  Siberia;  but  through  the  Swedish 
Miwalry  for  Foreign  Affairs,  he  (the  speaker)  had  been  informed  that  the  former 
of  tbcM  reports  referred  to  the  position  of  the  Dijmphna  on  September  2nd,  thus 
twenty  days  before  the  date  of  Hovgaard's  last  despatch,  and  the  latter  to  the  wreck 
pf  a  whaler.    Since,  therefore,  the  Louise  bad  parted  from  the  two  vessels  no  new», 
whether  direct  or  indirect,  had  been  received  of  the  fate  of  those  expeditions.     Still 
there  w»8  not  the  least  occasion  for  any  apprehension  ;  on  the  contrary,  there  was 
every  reason  to  presume  that  both  vessels  had  safely  reached  Port  Dickson,  as  it  was 
not  likely  that  the  narrow  Iwit  of  drift-ice  between  the  vessels  and  the  open  "  load  " 
by  the  coaat  could  keep  them  ice-bound  for  any  length  of  time.     Moat  probably  they 
bid  got  free  a  few  days  after  the  departure  of  the  Louwe^  and  continued  their 
jouraey  to  Port  Dickson.    And  should  any  of  the  vessels  have  become  wrecked  in 
the  vicinity  of  where  they  were  situated  on  September  22Bd,  the  party  would 
undoubtedly  have  reached  the  Russian  coast  near  the  mouth  of  the  Pctschora  in 
afety ;  and  from  tliis'  place  information  of  the  calamity  would  have  come  to  han<l 
ere  this.     If  the  vessels  had  reached  Port  Dickson,  infonnation   of  the  circom- 
tUiQoe  could,  even   if  an   express  had   been   despatched   to  Yeniseisk,  not   reacli 
Europe  until  the  middle  of  January.— The  Secretary,  E.  N.  Dahlgren,  Esq.,  ex- 
hibited two  maiw  presented  to  the  Society,  one  of  North  Europe  12,000  years  ago, 
hy  Mr.  E.  Hansen-Blangstcd,  showing  the  probable  division  of  land  and  sea  at  that 
fwiod,  and  another  of  North  Formosa,  drawn  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Patterson,  a  Swede, 
who  during  four  years  was  a  custom  officer  in  the  island  while  in  the  Chinese  service. 
He  also  hud  before  tlie  members  a  photo-lithographic  facsimile  of  the  oldest  known 
qiecial  map  of  Scandinavia.     The  original  is  inserted  in  a  Latin  MS.  of  the  '  Geo- 
gnphia  Ptolemaii,'  belonging  to  the  municipal  library  in  Nancy,  and  which  had 
been  lent  for  the  purpose  of  reproduction.     The  MS.,  remarkable  for  its  neatnass, 
hid  been  executed  at  the  command  of  Cardinal  Guilielmus  Filiastrus  (a.  ».  1428).    Tht* 
l«t  states  that  the  maps  in  the  MS.  were  drawn  from  Greek  originals,  but,  in  order 
to  till  a  hole  in  the  latter,  he  had  specially  commissioned  (in  1427)  a  Dane,  Claudius 
Clavus,  to  draw  a  map  of  Scandinavia,  with  explanatory  text.    The  map,  which  is 
distinguished  by  beiug  far  more  correct  than  those  drawn  uf  Scandinavia,  Greenland, 
Ac.,  at  a  later  pcritd,  will  bo  published  in  a  work  by  Professor  Nordenskiold  now  in 
the    press,— The  Council  for  1883   was  elected  as    folkjws :— President,   Dr.  O. 
Montelius;    Vice-President,   Consul  N.   A.   Elfving;  Secretary  (for  three  years), 
B.  W.  Dahlgren, Esq., address, KoEgl,  Biblioteket,  Stockholm;  Members  of  Coimcil, 
Professors  Nordenskiold,  Duben,  Hildebrand,  and  Key,  Drs.  Stolpe,  Tegn^r,  Warn, 
Oommaader  A.  Fries. 


k 


178 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


January  12th,  1883 :  Dr.  0.  Montblius,  President,  in  the  Chair. — In 

opening  the  meeting  the  PresiJent  announced  that  the  reports  of  the  Society's  pro- 
ceedings for  the  period  1878-1883  were  now  ready  from  the  press  in  a  complete  form. 
Captain  N.  Sehmder  next  exhibited  the  last  shoets  which  had  appeand  of  his  map 
of  Sweden,  and  jiointed  out  the  latest  alterations  which  had  been  effected  by  the 
recent  topographical  measurements;  the  geographical  position  of  many  places  in 
Jcratland  having,  on  previous  maps,  been  placed  from  one  to  three  miles  (English) 
too  far  east  or  west.  [Note :  In  our  report  of  the  meetiug  ot October  20th,  1882,  vide 
'  Proceedings,'  vol.  v.  p.  48,  it  was  wrongly  stated  in  the  copy  sent  to  us,  that  the 
Island  of  Gotland  had  been  discovered  to  be  160,000  feet  too  far  from  the  coast.  It 
should  have  been  16,000  feet.]  Consul  N.  A.  Elfving  then  read  a  jjaper  on  De  Brazza 
and  Stanley's  journeys  in  Africa. — Dr,  Montelius,  the  President,  communicated  the 
results  of  his  archieological  researches  in  Oestergotlaud  and  SkSno  last  summer,  In 
the  former  province  he  had  examined  a  newly  discovered  grave  of  the  stone  age, 
being  remarkable,  as  very  few  such  relics  had  been  found  there,  although  many  bad 
been  met  with  near  the  lake  Vettern,  which  part  he  therefore  believed  to  have 
been  the  first  inhabited  in  the  country.  In  Sktuie  he  had  examined  some  very 
interesting  remains  belonging  to  the  stone  age,  which  had  cume  to  light  by  the 
artificial  sinking  of  the  lake  Kingsjon,  and  also  a  grave  of  the  bronze  ago,  found 
near  Lund,  which  was  an  illustration  of  the  burying  of  bodies  in  oaken  coffins, 
whereby  the  clothes  of  tbe  dead  had  remained  in  good  condition  even  to  the  present 
day.  In  conclusion,  Dr,  B.  Christierusson»  Swedish-Norwegian  Conaul  in  Shanghai, 
made  some  observations  regarding  the  Chinese. 

Societe  Khediviale  de  GeograpMe  de  Cairo. — ^After  the  restoration  of 
peace  in  Egypt  the  above  Society  rf  commenced  its  operations.  The  first  meeting 
was  held  on  the  3rd  November,  1682,  when  the  Society  entered  upon  the  eighth  year 
of  ita  existt-nce.  The  President,  Genenil  Stone,  having  delivered  his  opening 
address,  formally  distributed  the  diplomixs  and  medals  gained  by  Egypt  at  the 
Venice  Congress. — M.  I'ictri  then  gave  an  account  of  the  GaUieni  Expedition  to  the 
Niger,  and  the  General  Secretary*  11,  Bonola,  a  resume  of  the  Arctic  events  of  the 
year,  adding  some  details  on  circumpolar  meteorological  stations. — A  secuud  meeting 
was  held  on  the  8th  December,  when  Dr.  Schweinfurth  gave  a  lecture  ou  questions 
of  African  hydrography  relative  to  the  basins  of  the  Congo  and  of  the  Uelle,  and  a 
sketch  of  the  travek  of  MM.  Pogge  and  Wissraann,  and  of  JIM,  Junker  aod  CajatL 
— General  Stone,  President,  then  read  a  memorandum  on  the  services  rendered  by 
Egypt  to  African  geography,  especially  by  the  expeditions  of  the  General  Staff,  He 
gave  details  of  all  these  expctUtions,  ixiinting  out  tlie  si>ecial  importance  of  each,  the 
territory  discovered  or  verified,  and  the  sacrifices  of  men  and  money  which  these 
expeditions  have  cost  the  Government. — In  conclusion,  M.  Zigari  read  an  obituary 
notice  of  the  late  Martinis  Anlinori.— The  third  meeting,  which  was  held  on  the 
19th  January,  1883,  was  convened  to  do  honour  to  Liexitenant  Wissmaan,  who  had 
wrrivt'd  at  Cairo  after  his  journey  across  Africji,  and  for  the  installation  of  the  new 
President,  General  Stone  having  sent  in  his  resignation  and  left  Egypt.  His  High- 
ness the  Khedive  had,  in  accordance  with  the  terms  of  the  statute,  appointed  as 
President  of  the  Society  His  Excellency  Ii.mail  Pacha  Eyoub,  Honomry  Member  of 
the  Society,  formerly  Governor-Genera!  of  the  Soudau,  and  now  Minister  of  the 
Interior. — The  new  President,  in  taking  his  chair,  delivered  an  appropriate  address^ 
which  received  great  applause-  M,  Wissmann  then  spoke  and  described  the  princii>al 
phases  of  bis  famous  journey. — In  conclusion,  M.  Schweinfurth  made  some  obser- 
vations on  the  said  journey.  —  All  the  mottings  were  well  attended,  the  hall 
Overflowmg  with  i)eoi)le,  among  whom  were  many  ladies  and  ofiicers  of  the  army  of 
occupation. 


I 


(  1"^  ) 

NEW  BOOKS. 

(By  E,  C,  Bye,  Librarian  r.g.s.) 

EUROPE. 

tBaleftric  lales.]  Die  Balearen.  In  Wort  und  Bild  geschilderfc.  Yicrter  Baud, 
f>  <;heu  Balearen.     Leipzig  (Brockhaua):  1882,  imperial  4to.,  pp.309, 

.         _       ^  coloured  illustrations,  woodcuts. 

This  volume  forms  part,2  of  Book  3,  devoted  to  Slallorca  (sc«  *  Proceedings,' 
1881,  p.  318,  for  preceding  volume),  and  contains  the  foUowitig  divisions: — 
1.  On  the  City  of  Pahua ;  2.  On  its  harbour ;  3.  On  the  ordinary  aspects  of 
life  cf  its  inhabitants;  4.  On  tlie  country  in  its  immediate  neighbour hoo<J. 
Many  of  the  larger  coloured  illustrations,  whicli  are  from  sketches  by  the  illus- 
trioUB  and  anouymouii  author,  the  Archduke  Ludwig  Salvator  of  Austrm,  are  ot 
remarkable  excellence,  especially  when  the  levelling  process  ofchromolithograpby 
is  takea  into^  consideration ;  of  these,  that  representing  the  Puerto  del  Mulinai 
de  Levante  must  be  especially  noticed.  The  first  subdivision,  which  describes 
and  figures  the  numerous  objects  of  archaiological  and  architectural  interest  in 
Ihe  city  of  Palrua,  ia  the  fullest  in  treatment;  and  here  also  it  is  mipossible  to 
Avoid  some  expression  of  praisc!  for  the  a^liuirable  way  in  which  the  engravings 
combine  definitiou  of  detail  and  bieadth  of  treatment.  The  map  is  a  repro- 
duction of  Antonio  Garav's  representation  in  1G44  of  Palma  and  its  environs. 

Den  ITorske  Nordhavs-Expedition,  1876-1878  [The  Norwegian  North- 
Atbniic  Expedition,  Ib7(>-lri78].  Ckristiauia  (Gr^ndahl):  1880-82,  imp.  4to., 
maps,  plates,     (Sampson  Low  <t  Co.) 

Part  VIII.  of  the  valuable  General  Report  of  the  above-named  Expedition 
Jiaving  just  been  receivwl  in  the  library  of  the  Society  frum  the  Editorial 
Committee,  the  opportunity  may  be  taken  of  noting  here  the  progress  of  the 
work  and  the  nature  of  the  parts  already  publisho«l.  The  publicaiion,  for  which 
a  grant  of  money  has  been  obtained  from  the  Norwegian  Storthing,  is  conducted 
Tinder  directions  from  the  Government,  and  especially  appeals  to  Hnglish 
readers,  as  the  Expedition  of  which  it  gives  the  results  is  avowedly  bafied  on 
British  mo<leh3,and  the  Report  itself  is  printed  in  double  C4)lumus  of  i^Iorwegian 
<  4Dd  English  (traQslatc\l  by  John  HazelAud). 

The  different  memoirs  of  which  it  consists  are  distributed  immediately  on 
.  leaving  the  press,  and  with  no  regard  to  oider.  The  following  have  as  yet 
appeared : — 

No.  IV.  1.  Historisk  Beretning ;  2.  App:iraterne  ug  derea  Brug  [I.  His- 
torical Acoouut,  pp.  4G,  map;  2.  Tiie  Apparatus,  and  how  used,  pp.  54, 
frontiapiece  and  iUastrationsJ.  By  C.  Wille,  Captain  of  the  Boyal  Norwegiau 
Navv.     1882. 

The  first  portion  of  this  No.  recapitulates  the  memorial  presented  by  Pro- 
fessors H,  Muhn  and  G.  0.  Sars  in  1874  to  the  Norwegian  Go verimieut,  in  which 
the  conviction  is  urged  that  the  means  to  comprehL-ud  and  ex  plain  the  physical 
and  biological  conditions  peculiar  to  Scandinavia  must  be  sought  chielly  in  a 
thorough  exploration  of  the  sea  stretching  between  Norway,  the  Fairoe  Islands, 
Iceland,  Jan  Mayen,  and  Spitzbergen,  coustituting  a  wide  basin  Avherein  the 
warm  water  of  the  Atlantic  meets  the  cold  indraught  from  tlie  Polar  Sc.os. 
Former  observations,  b^,>th  of  a  meteorological  and  physical  nature,  arc  briefly 
discussed,  resulting  in  tht:  certain  assumption  tliat  Norway  is  indebted  to 
the  physicjil  conditions  of  her  adjacent  st.'a-bottom  and  the  corresponding  oceanic 
currents,  for  her  existence  as  a  habitable  and  civilised  country  ;  and  the 
advisability  of  a  correct  knowledge  of  tliese  conditions  is  set  forth,  not  only 
from  Scientific  points  of  view,  but  as  being  likely  to  throw  light  on  meteoro- 
logical and  other  influences  of  economic  importimce,  especially  with  regard  to 
the  staple  industry  of  herring  fisheries.  U'bis  memorial  resulted  Ln  the  charteiing 
of  the  steamer  V^rimjnt,  the  appointment  of  officers  and  scientific  staff  (Pro- 
fessors Mohu  and  Sats,  Dr.  Dauielssen,  Mr.  Fricle,  Mr.  Svendsen,  and  an  artist, 


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Mr.  ScUiertz),  aod  Ibe  drawing  up  of  a  scheme  of  operations ;  and  the  Expedition 
left  Bergen  oo  June  1, 1876.  After  some  coasting  experieticea,  tho  ship  Hteamed 
west  to  the  FKroos  and  Iceland,  bnt  the  season  wjw  Ujo  far  advfiuced  for  a 
circumnavigation  of  the  latter  island,  and  ahe  returned  to  Bergen  at  tlie  end  of 
August.  A  second  start  was  made  on  June  11,  1877,  Mr.  H.  Torn0«  takic*; 
the  place  of  Mr.  Svendsen,  and  alter  a  series  of  oi>erations  on  and  ofiF  the 
coast,  Jan  Mayen  was  reached  on  July  28,  and  left  on  August  3,  tho 
return  to  Bergen  being  made  on  Angnst  23.  The  soundings  between  R|»st 
and  Tromsfi  disclosed  the  important  fact  that  along  tkis  line  the  basin  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean  cuts  deep  into  the  bank»  forming  an  edge  as  at  Stor-Eggen, 
off  the  coaMt  of  Romsdal.  This  edge,  named  Vesteraals-Eggen,  is  about 
240  milejs  long,  being  at  its  northern  extremity  not  more  than  12  miles  from 
land.  The  tish  frequentiug  it  are  of  tho  same  species  as  those  found  on  the 
Stor-Eg,  and  it  is  apparently  ijetter  suited  than  the  latter  for  the  establishment 
and  working  of  fisheries.  In  the  middle  of  June,  1878,  the  third  voyage  w>is 
commenced,  and  after  touching  at  Tliimnierfost  and  Vard<*,  the  V0rmg€rt  madu 
for  Beeren  Island  (where  the  altitude  of  Mount  Misery  was  determined  by 
trigonometrical  observations),  returning  to  Ilamraerfest  and  unconsciously 
passing  within  a  few  miles  of  the  re^w  on  her  outward  journey.  The  final 
start  for  Spitsbergen  was  then  made,  and  after  landing  on  Beertin  Island  by  the 
way  and  collecting  birds,  fossils,  and  plants,  tht;  South  Cape  was  reached  on 
August  5,  and  the  Norway  Islands  on  the  north-western  coast  teu  days  later. 
One  sounding  of  1343  fathoms  made  during  this  part  of  the  joiu-ncy  is  of 
esi>ecial  value,  as  corroborating  the  work  of  the  Swetiish  Expedition  in  the  Sofia 
in  1808,  imder  Nordenskiold  and  Von  Otter.  An  extraordinary  quantity  of 
lish  was  found  in  the  sound  between  the  Norway  Islands,  three  boats  with  twu 
men  each  being  able  to  catch  and  j.iack  as  many  as  2200  cod  in  twenty-four 
hours.  The  return  voyage  was  mado  along  the  west  coast,  the  land  at  Advent 
Bay  being  specially  noticed  to  diQer  from  all  other  parts  of  Spitzbergen  visited 
by  the  Expedition,  in  presenting  no  glaciers  in  its  valleys ;  and  Bergen  was 
reached  on  Sciitcmber  4,  the  entire  expense  of  all  three  voyages  being  about 
14,000/. 

Tlie  accompanying  map  shows  the  whole  of  the  variouB  courses  of  the  sliip 
during  1876-78,  with  stations  and  dates. 

The  second  jwrt  contJiins  techniail  descriptions  with  well-executed  illustra- 
tions of  the  ship  and  the  .sounding-  and  dretlging-apparatus  .ind  methods  of 
working,  with  taltlea  of  soundings  at  375  stations,  showing  ijosition,  depths, 
and  bottom ;  and  toncludes  with  an  account  of  the  method  of  taking  astronomical 
observatioas,  and  of  the  instruments  cniployal. 

No.  V.  1,  Astronomiske  ObstrvationL-r,  pp.  23,  by  H.  Mohn  ;  2.  Maguetiske 
Oljservationer,  pp.  30,  woodcut,  by  C.  Wille  ;  3.  Geografi  og  Naturhistorie,  pp. 
36,  maps,  coloured  i»lates,  and  woodcuts,  by  H.  Mohn.     1882. 

The  first  part  nf  this  No.  contains  details  of  the  astronomical  observations 
made  in  some  of  the  harlx>urs  at  which  the  Expedition  touched,  chiefly  to  serve 
as  a  lasis  of  the  time-  and  aKimuth-detcrminationa  required  for  the  magnetic 
observations,  but  with  the  secondary  uhject  of  determining  geographical 
positions  in  Jan  Muyen  and  Spitzbergen,  and  of  verifying  longitudes  on  the 
northern  Norway  co.nst  by  means  of  telejiraph  time-signals.  Observations  are 
recorded  from  Hus^<,  Keykjavik,  Namsos,  Bod0,  K0st,  HamraerfLst,  Vard0, 
Advent  Bay,  and  Jan  Mayen.  DifTeronces  in  the  received  positions  are 
suggested  in  many  caijea. 

The  second  part  in  like  manner  discusses  the  magnetical  observations, 
giving  Beparotcly  those  taken  at  land  stations  and  those  made  at  sea,  and 
concluding  with  tables  of  the  observations  and  their  results  at  Vestfjorden, 
Bergen,  0sl-  and  Vest-Finmarken,  the  Norwegian  Sea,  South  Cape,  and  the 
Greenland  Sea,  with  synoptical  table. 

Professor  Mohn'a  bcauLifully  illustrated  "Contributions  to  the  Geography 
and  Natural  History  of  the  Northern  Kegloos  of  Euroix?,"  which  constitute  the 
third  part  of  this  Number,  tire  uaturnlly  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the 
work  from  a  geographical  point  of  view,  and  would  api»arently  deserve  separate 
publication  for  the  advantage  of  general  readers.     He  describes  the  physical 


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I 
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181 


features,  topography,  and  natural  productions  of  the  Vestmanna  LslaudB  (Ice- 
land), Jau  Mayen,  Bceren  Island,  and  part  of  Spitzbergen,  to  which  six 
admirable  chromo-litho{;^aphs  from  the  sketches  of  Mr.  Schiertz,  the  artist  who 
accompanied  the  Expedition,  ali^o  refer.  Excellent  woodcutt*  are  also  given  of 
the  Fuglcberg,  Epg  Island,  Briello  Tower,  the  Eeerenbcrg,  north  coast  glaciers, 
and  Hoyberg,  in  Jan  Mayen,  with  a  general  winter  view  of  the  Island,  from  the 
north-west ;  also  of  Mount  Misery  and  the  Cloven  CliiT,  Beeren  Island. 

The  map  of  Jan  Mayen,  on  the  scale  of  1  :  200,000,  accompanying  this 

.part,  compiled  from  various  sourceH  and  corrected  by  the  observations  of  the 

I  Expedition,  has  (or  at  least,  a  copy  of  it  has)  appeared  already  in  Peterroann's 

•  Mittheilungeu,'  xxiv.  (1878),  pi.  13.     The  second  map,  of  Advent  Bay,  Spitz- 

bergen,  is  from  a  survey  by  Caiilain  Willc,  with  the  assistance  of  a  rough 

triangulation  by  Professor  Mohn  and  Captain  J.  Grieg,  scale  1 ;  60,000. 

The  description  of  the  isolate<i  volcjuiie  rock  Jan  Mayen  (7*32  geographical 
square  miles  in  area)  is  supplemented  by  a  comparison  with  previous  accounts. 
It  is  probably  of  hiter  formation  than  the  Faroes  and  Iceland,  and  has  a 
cbaraoteristic  feature  in  the  fantastic  and  picturesque  rocks  of  its  mostly 
precipitous  coast  line,  chiefly  composed  of  fragments  of  lava  detached  from  the 
streams  that  have  traver8e<l  the  island*  and  practically  constitute  the  surface  of 
its  low  middle  tract.  Its  highest  point,  the  top  of  the  extinct  volcano  Mount 
Bcerenberg,  is  6400  feet,  but  it  exhibits  also  a  number  of  smaller  conical 
craters.  Another  special  feature  is  afforded  by  two  lagoons,  cut  off  from  the 
sea  by  barriers  of  black  sand  only  a  few  feet  high,  and  containing  fresh  water, 
deep  enough  on  the  western  side  for  a  good  harbour,  if  the  spit  were  cut  through. 
The  large  ravines  in  the  more  elevated  northern  pwrt  of  the  island  are  filled 
with  glaciers,  but  the  southern  part  appears  to  be  little  intersected  by  valleys, 
having  very  few  brooks  or  rivulets.  The  island  has  naturally  a  meagre  flora 
(11  species  of  plants  are  recorded),  though  bright  herbage  is  not  wanting ;  and 
A  green  carpet  of  moss,  in  some  places  of  considerable  extent,  contrasts 
atrikingly  with  the  dark  rocks.  The  Polar  fox  is  by  no  means  rare,  and  seven 
Kliecies  of  sea  birds  were  observed. 

In  the  account  of  Beeren  Island,  some  interesting  observations  occu  r,  bearmt; 
im  its  gradual  demolition  by  ceaseless  surf  action ;  the  bank  extending  to  it 
from  East  Spitzbergen  is  considered  to  be  probably  the  remains  of  a  former 
condition  of  this  laud,  along  with  solid  matter  deposited  on  the  melting  of 
drift-ice. 

Nos.  I.  (1880)  and  IX.  (1882)  refer  to  Chemistry  [Chemi].  The  first,  by  < 
Hercules  Torn0e,  pp.  76,  maps  and  woodcuts,  contains  the  following  articles: — 
1,  Om  Luften  i  S0vandet  [On  the  air  in  sea-water] ;  2.  Om  Knlsyren  i 
S0vandet  [On  the  carbonic  acid  in  sea-water] ;  3.  Um  Saltholdigheden  af  ] 
Vandet  i  det  Norske  Nordhav  [On  the  amount  of  salt  in  the  water  of  the  | 
Norwegian  Sea].  The  majje  show  the  pro|)ortion  of  salt  in  the  surface-water ' 
and  deeper  strata,  and  of  nitrogen  in  the  latter. 

The  second,  by  Ludvig  Schmolck,  pp.  71,  maps  and  woodcut,  contains: — 
L  Om  S0vandets  Paste  Bestanddele  [on  the  solid  matter  in  sea-water]  ;  2.  Om 
Havbundens  Afleiringer  [on  <x:eanic  deposits].     Grey  clay  is  distributed  over 
the  whole  sea-bottom  examined,  from    the   shallowest  coastal  tracts  to  th« 
preau^st  depths,  but  at  000  to  1100  fathoms  it  is  covered  with  a  brown  sediment  1 
{Biloculina  clay),  distinguished  by  containing  certain  species  of /'brammJ/Vral 
not  occurring  in  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  sea-b(tttom.     The  small  ])er-j 
centa^e  of  carbonate  of  lime  in  this,  and  also  of  inorganic  animal  remains,  show  1 
that  the  Northern  Ocean  cannot  compare  with  the  southern  sens  in  development  J 
of  animal  Ufe.    The  layers  also  appear  to  contain  but  a  small  proportion  of  i 
mineral  substances  spread  by  volcanic  emiitions. 

The  remaining  Kos.  refer  to  Zoology,  and  are  as  follows  : — I.  Fiske  [Fishes], 
by  Robert  CoUett,  1880,  pp.  1G4,  map,  5  ctjioured   plates;   VIJI,  MoUusca^* 
1  Buccinidaty  by  Herman  Friele,  1882,  pp.  38,  map,  6  pis. ;    Y ii,  Atindida^^ 
by  G.  Armauer  Hansen,  1882,  pp.  54,  map,  7  pis. ;  III.  U(phyrca„  by  D.  0. 
IJanielsscn  and  Johan  Koren,  1861,  pp.  51»,  map,  G  pis. ;  VI.  Ilolothurioidea, 
by  the  same  authors,  1882,  pp.  95,  map,  13  pis. 

Of  the  parts  remaining  to  be  published  there  would  seem  from  the  circular 


182 


NEW  BOOKS. 


of  the  Editorial  Committee  to  remain  12  or  13  purely  zoological,  and  mcmoini 
by  Professor  Mohn  on  meteorolop;y,  deep-sea  temperatures,  and  motion  ol  the 
sea.  Tlie  work  when  completed  will  apparently  be  as  perfect  in  conoeptiou 
and  execution  as  suck  a  lie^Mjrt  could  be  made. 

Playfair,  [Lieut-Col.]  E.  L. — Handbo<jk  to  the  Mediterranean  :  its  CitieSf  Coasts, 
and  Islands.  For  the  nse  of  general  Travellers  and  Yachtsmen,  Second  Eldition, 
revised.  London  (John  Mm-ray)  :  1882,  post  8vo.,  pp.  xliv.  Ss  544,  maps,  plan*, 
&c    Price  20*. 

This  careful  revision  is  some  30  pages  longer  than  the  first  edition,  and 

parts  of  it,  especially  Sicily,  Cyprus,  and  Sardima,  have  been  entirely  re-written 

on  the  spot. 

Hoskoscluiy,  Hermaim.^ — Ruesland,     Land  imd  Leute.    TJnter  Mitwirkungvieler 

dfutscVifn  unti  alavischen  Gelehrten  und    Schriftsteller  herausgcgelwn  von   Dr. 

Hermann  Roskoschny.    Leipzig  (Gretzner  &  Schramm)  :  1883,  4to.,  illustrations. 

(  Wi^Hams  it  NorgaU.) 

The  commencement  of  a  profusely  illustrated  account  of  Bussia  and  its 
people,  to  be  is>med  in  Numbers  of  16  pages,  price  1«.  each. 

Eosny,  Leon  Prnnol  de.— Les  Populations  Danubiennes.  I^a  Patrie  des  Romains 
d'Orient.  Etudos  Ethnographiqnes,  Geographic ues,  Historiqncs,  Economiqncs  et 
LittcraircB,  Paris  (Maisonneuve) :  1882.  Text  4to.  and  Atlas  foL,  maps,  coloured 
illustrations  and  engravings  from  i>hotographs-     ( WiUinmn  tfi  Norgate.) 

The  beginning  of  a  comprelienslve  work,  in  ivhich  geography  is  a!W;ribcd  a 
prominent  jiosition,  to  be  complotefi  in  five  livratsons  of  Text  and  the  like 
number  of  Atlas  of  plates,  ttc.  250  numbered  copies  only  are  to  be  printed,  at 
the  subscription  price  ol  150  francs  (15?.  Gs.},  The  geography  of  central  and 
southern  Europe  during  the  quaternary  e]^ioch  is  describe*!  (with  a  map)  in  the 
preliminary  discussion  of  ethnogcnetic  luflucnces;  and  due  importance  is  given 
to  physical  geography  as  a  factor  in  the  distribution  of  races  in  historic  times. 
The  atlas  is  mainly  of  ethnological  interest,  hut  the  early  numlx^rs  include  a 
reproduction  by  lielio^avure  of  a  parchment  map  of  Central  Europe  in  the 
S eh 6fer  collection,  dated  1491,  and  an  Orographical  and  Hydrographical  map  of 
Ronmania  (scale  1 :  2,000,000). 

Valle&tin,  Florian. — Les  Alpes  Cottiennea  et  Graies,  Geo;^phie  Gallo-Romaine. 
Paris  (H.  Champion)  :  1883,  8vo,,  pp.  113,  map.     {Dulau :  price  28.  3d.) 

The  author  has  made  a  special  study  of  the  French  versant  of  the  Cottian 
and  Gmiau  Alps,  which  offer  so  many  curious  subjects  for  study,  especially  to 
the  archaeologist.  Ho  discnsaes  briedy  their  physical  geography  (orograpliv, 
hydrography,  climate,  soil,  flora,  products,  and  fauna),  different  iohabitants 
during  the  historic  period,  and  Roman  roads.  Tlie  latter  section  is  the  main 
part  of  the  work,  and  contains  somewhat  elaborate  details  of  the  various  remains 
known  to  exist  in  the  country.  The  map  is  supposed  to  represent  the  eastern 
part  of  GaRia  Bracata  liiefore  the  time  of  Diocletian,  and  shows  positions  of 
Roman  colonies,  roads,  boundaries,  &c. 

AFRICA. 

Macdonald,  [Eev.]  Duff.— Africana ;  or  the  Heart  of  Heathen  Africa,  London 
(Simpkin,  Marshall,  &  Co.),  Edinburgh  (John  Menzies  &  Co.),  Aberdeen 
(A.  Browu  &  Co.):  1882,  2  vols.,  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  &  301.  371  [no  Index], 
illustrations.     Price  2I5. 

The  author,  late  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  Mission,  Blantyre,  East  Central 
Africa,  in  his  tirst  volume  describes  native  customs  and  beliefs,  mostly  from 
personal  experience,  giving  in  the  appendix  literal  translations  of  native  talcs. 
This  portion  of  his  work  is  of  interest  to  ethnologists  and  missionaries,  and 
contains  a  mass  of  iufonnation  rendering  an  Index  indispensable  for  future 
stndente.    The  second  volume  is  devoted  to  missionary  life,  commencing  with 


NEW  MAPS. 

iription  of  earlier  attempts  to  christianise  Coutral  Africa,  and  a  sketch  of 

i  Universities'  and  Scotch  Missions,  and  giving  particulars  of  the  journey 

frein  QuJlimanf?  to  Blantyre,  with  details  of  the  country  and  natives  round  that 
sUtion,  incidental  topography  in  the  accounts  of  various  short  expeditions  to 
Zomba,  Lake  Chirwa  (which  ia  beconainfj;  drier  every  yenr),  &c.,  snU  description 
of  the  Chiri  (Shire)  on  the  road  home.  Specimens  of  African  folk-lore  are  given 
in  the  appendix  to  this  volume. 

GEXERAL. 

Bhdg«fy  F.  D.— Jauro&l  of  a  Lady's  TraveU  round  the  World.  London 
(J.  Martay):  1883,  crovvn  8vo.,  pp.  xi,  A;  413,  map,  illustrations  [no  Index  J. 
Price  15«. 

The  authoress  recount*  her  personal  experiences  during  a  journey  of  nearly 
2^  years,  conrunencing  in  Greece  in  August  1878,  and  departing  from  the  some- 
whit  monotonous  routine  of  round-the-world  tours  by  a  visit  to  Lch  in  Tibet, 
and  to  British  Columbia,  Her  accoimts  of  Kashmir,  Ladakh,  and  of  life  in 
I^,  with  extract*  from  the  journal  of  her  fellow-traveller  who  visited  Yarkand 
in  July  1879,  leaving  her  iu  Tibet  to  await  his  return,  will  be  found  of  especial 
iaterest. 


J 


KEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  E.O.S.) 

POLAR  BEOIONS. 

Jordpol,  Liinder  um  den ,  im  Auftrag  der  Intemationalen  Polar-Kommission. 

Scale  1:10,000,000  or  133 '2  geographical  milea  to  an  inch.    Justofi  Perthes, 
Gotha.     Price  4«.     (Dulan.) 

EITEOPE. 

Jdhmen,  Generalkarte  dcs  Kotnigreich .     Von  J.  E.  Wagner.  Scale  1 :  220,000 

or  3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Kytka,  Prag.    Price  9#.    (Dxdan,) 

■^entachland,  Wandkarte  von .     Von  A.  Petermann.    Scale  1 : 1,000,000  or 

i3  -G  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     9  sheets.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha,     Price  5«. 

^Tnachen  Reiches,  Karte  des .    Herauegegeben  von  der  kartogr.  Abtheihmg 

<i«3r  KoiiigL  Prcu-ss.  Limdes-Aufnahme  1882.   Scale  1 :  100,000  or  I  '3  geographical 
^^^ ilea  to  an  incL     Sheets:— 148.  Wittenburg.    179.  Lauenburg  a.  d.  Elbe.    183. 
^^r^Alchow.    467.  Greiz.    &  541.  Birkenleld.    Price  Is.  6d  each.     {Dulau.) 
D^Xitschcn  Reicha  ^md  aeiner  Nachbargebiete.     Wandkarto  von  Dr.  H.  Wagner. 

X  J  sheets.     Juslu-s  Perthes,  Gotha.     Price  10«.    (Dulrju.) 
^X-anee. — Carta  g6)logique  detaill«5e  d'aprea  la  carte  topographique  de  P^tat-major. 
1:80,000  or  1*1   geographical    miles  to  an  inch.     Sheets: — 61.  'Avranches. 
180.  Bordeaux.     Paris.     iDuIau.') 
"^"orway.— Topografiisk  Kart  over  Kongeriget  Norgo.     Scale  1 :  100,000  or  I'S  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.     Udgivet  af  Norges  geografiske  Opmaaling.    Sheet 
15b.  Odemark.  20a.  Nannestad.    25b.  Gjovik.    46c.  Temingen.    47c.  Stjordalcn. 
;7d.  Merakcr.    49b.  Skj(5m-    49d.  BjSmdr.     50a.  Levanger.     (/)«?««.) 

Den  Geologiskc  Unders^gelse.  Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1-3  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch.  Udgivet  af  den  geographiske  Opmaaling.  Sheets : — 16d.  Bergen. 
22b.  Hans.     47c.  Stjiirdalen.     49b.  Skjom.    50a.  Levanger.     {Dulau), 

Kristiania  Omegn.  Scale  1:25,000  or  2" 9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile. 
Bl.  IIL  &  TV.  Udgivet  af  Norges  geografiske  Opmaaling.  Kristiania,  1881-82. 
{Dulau.) 


NEW  MAPS, 


Korway. — Kart  over  Itorastlals  Amt,  udgivet  af  Norges  geografiske  Opmaalii]^ 
tiania,  1882.    Scale  1  :  200,000  or  2  •  7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Keiaekart  over  det  nordigo  Norge.     Kristiania-     Scale  1 :  80,800  or| 

graphical  miles  to  an  idcL.     4  sheetg.    (Dulau.) 

Oesterreichscli-IJngariBclien  MonarcMe,  Specialkarte  dor .  Scale ' 

or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  K.  k.  militar-geografischea  Instit 
1882.  Sheets:— Zone  3,  Col.  XI.  Bhm  Leipa  und  Daaba.  Zone  5, 
Karlsbad  imd  Luditz.  Zone  6,  Col.  Vni.  Te[)l  and  Taschkau.  Zone  6,  ( 
Eterann  und  Horowitz.  Zone  7»  Col  XI,  SelSan  ^und  Jung-Woachitz.  ZA 
Gi^l  VITI.  Eiaenstem  imd  Viechtach.  Zone  9."  Col.  IX.  SchUttenhofa 
Winterberg.  Zone  10,  Col.  X.  Kruman  und  Wallero.  Zone  18,  OoL 
Gleichenberg.  Zone  23,  Col.  XII.  Gottschee  und  Tschernembl.  Zone  2J 
XVIIL  Orakovica und  Benicance.  Zone  23,  Col  XIX.  Esseg,  Diirda  und  Va 
Zone  24,  Col  IX.  Cittanuova  imd  Montona.  Zone  24,  Col  X.  Pingueat 
Voloaca.  Zone  24,  Col.  XIV.  Petrinja  und  Topusko.  Zone  25^  Col  IX.  P| 
und  Rovigno.     Zone  26,  Col  IX.  Fiisj^na*     Price  of  each  sheet  Is.  id.     (ZH 

PreUBS-Staatea.— Messtischbliitter  des  Pneiias-Staates.  Scale  1:25,000  o 
inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Konigl.  Preuss.  Landes-Aufaahme,  Hi 
gegeben  1882,  Sheets :  361,  Kiel,  and  3552,  Metz.  Price  of  each  she 
Also  Index  to  map  on  4  sheets.    Price  U.    (Dulau.) 


ASIA, 

Ceyloiii  Map  of  the  Maud  of .    Scale  1 :  506,880  or  6 '9  geographic 

an    inch.      Surveyor- General's    Office,    Colombo,  1881.      Lithographed  ai 
Intelligence  Branch,  War  Office,  London,  1882. 


}he^^ 

tlcaim 
bed  ai 

4 


AFRICA. 

Toumat,   Yabous   &   Yal,    Lea    Sonrcea   du ,      1881-82.      A   S.E.  i 

Pacha  I'Auteur  reconnaissant  Juan-Maria  Schuver.      Scale   1  :  500,000  or 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.      Soci^t^  Khidiviale  de  Geographie  dg 
Bulletin  No.  3,  2»«  Ser. 

Wala-FlnsB,  Aufgenommen  von    Dr.  E.  Boehm  und  P.  Reich ard,  10-28 
1882.     Nach  Reichard's  Originalzeichnung  in  1 :  20,000  rcducirt  auf  1  :  10< 
or  1-3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Red,  von  Richi  Kiepert.    Mittbeil 
Afrikaaiachen  Geaellachaft  in  Deutschland.     Bd.  III.  Ta£  10.     Berli 
(ptdau). 

AMEBIOA, 

Colombia,  F.  von  Schenck'a  Rciseii  in — — .  Blatt  1 :  Route  Nare  nach  Mec 
und  Higueron  1878  &  1860.  Keduktion  der  Originalkarte  dea  Reiacnde 
Massstabe  von  1  : 280,000  auf  den  Maasstab  1 :  450,000  or  6*2  ga>graphical  J 
to  an  inch,  Petermann'a  *  Geographiacho  Mittheilungen,*  Jahrga 
Tafel  3.    JufttUB  Perthes,  Gotha.     (Dulau.) 


1 

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1 


CHAaTS. 

United  Statei  Charts.— Nos.  893,  894,  895,  896,  and  897.  South  Anu 
The  Madeira  River  from  its  mouth  to  the  Falls  of  San  Antonio.  Price  la.  8<i. 
sheet.  No.  424.  Newfoundland— East  Coast.  Hare  Bay,  How  Harbor  (Ou 
or  Bustard  Bay).  Price  7|d.  No.  922.  West  Indies.  Haiti  or  St.  Dom 
Gonaives  Bay.  Price  lOt^.  Published  1882  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  ^ 
IDgtOQ,  D.C,  , 


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PROCEEDINGS 

OF  THE 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECOKD  OF  GEOGKAPHY. 


Explorations  in  Guaiemala,  and  Examination  of  tJie  newly-discovered 
Indian  Buins  of  Quiriffud,  Ttkal,  and  the  Usumadnia, 

By  A.   P.   MA.UDSLAY. 

(Bead  at  tho  Evening  Meeting,  December  lltb,  1882.) 

Map  and  Plans,  p.  248. 

I  THINK  it  fair  to  preface  the  following  description  of  some  of  the 
deserted  and  ruined  towns  of  Central  America  by  stating  that  the  prin- 
cipal object  of  my  first  journey  was  not  geographical  or  antiquarian 
research,  but  a  desire  to  pass  the  winter  in  a  warm  climate.  I  had  made 
no  previous  study  of  American  archeology,  but  my  interest  had  been 
aroused  by  reading  Stephens's  account  of  his  travels,  and  I  started  for 
Guatemala  in  the  winter  of  1880-1,  in  the  hope  that  I  might  reach  some  ' 
of  the  ruins  so  admirably  described  by  him.  My  success  in  this  first 
trip  was  so  much  greater  than  I  anticipated,  that  I  returned  to  pass 
another  winter  in  the  country,  provided  with  a  larger  photographic 
camera,  and  generally  better  equipped  for  the  work. 

Ruins  near  Qmrigud. — I  arrived  at  Livingstone,  tho  Atlantic  port  of 
Guatemala,  early  in  January  1881.  Ascending  the  river  and  crossing 
the  Golfo  Dulce  to  Yzabal,  I  hired  mules,  and  rode  a  distance  of  about 
15  miles  over  the  Mioo  Mountains  to  a  small  cattle  rancho  near  the 
village  of  Quirigua,  and  after  a  day's  rest  started,  accompanied  by  some 
villagers,  to  visit  the  ruins,  partially  examined  by  Catherwood,  which 
lie  liidden  in  the  forest  near  the  banks  of  the  Motagua  river. 

Leaving  the  ranche,  which  stands  amongst  pine-woods  600  feet 
above  the  sea,  an  hour's  ride  brought  us  down  to  the  level  land  through 
which  the  river  Motagua  here  flows.  Tho  track  soon  ended  in  some 
native  plantations,  and  we  then  followed  a  new  track,  which  the  alcalde 
of  the  village  had  sent  men  ahead  to  cut  for  me,  and  in  another  hour  we 
came  to  the  ruins.  At  first  I  could  see  no  more  than  the  three  mono- 
liths in  the  situations  marked  A,  B,  and  C  on  the  plan  (plan  Qairigud^ 
on  map,  p.  248),  round  which  the  underwood  had  been  cleared  for  a  few 

No.  IV.— April  1883.]  o 


186  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

yards;  for  overhead  and  all  round  was  a  dense  tropical  forest.  The 
stones  themselves  were  so  thickly  coated  with  moss  and  creepers,  that 
it  was  with  difficulty  that  I  could  make  out  any  of  the  om^iment  with 
which  I  afterwards  found  them  to  be  covered,  and  I  had  little  hope  that 
I  should  bo  repaid  the  trouble  of  cleaning  them.  However,  we  pulled 
off  the  creepers  and  then  scrubbed  away  the  moss  vrith.  some  rough 
brushes  wo  made  out  of  the  midribs  of  the  palm  leaflets,  and,  as  the 
sculpture  began  to  show  up,  I  sacrificed  one  of  my  hair-brushes  to  clear 
out  the  more  delicate  carving  of  the  hieroglyphics. 

On  this  first  visit  I  was  able  to  stay  three  days  in  the  forest ;  and 
during  that  time  I  saw  five  monoliths  in  position  and  one  fallen,  and 
two  of  the  curious  carved  stone  animals  which  I  will  presently  describe. 
But  I  was  not  altogether  satisfied  with  my  search,  as  I  felt  sure  that 
there  must  be  other  monuments  unknown  to  the  villagers  hidden  away 
in  the  thick  undergrowth,  so  on  my  return  to  Guatemala  this  year  I 
sent  some  men  on  a  week  ahead  of  me  to  fell  the  timber,  and  then  I  was 
able  to  spend  five  days  myself  at  the  ruins.  During  these  five  days 
we  succeeded  in  finding  and  cleaning  the  rest  of  the  monuments  marked 
on  the  plan. 

As  this  plan  shows,  these  ruins  consist  of  a  small  number  of  raised 
mounds  and  terraces,  usually  faced  with  stone,  and  near  to  these  terraces 
a  number  of  elaborately  carved  monoliths.  These  latter  monuments  are 
of  two  kinds :  high  upright  stones,  ornamented  with  carvings  of  human 
figures  and  tables  of  hieroglyphics ;  and  low  broad  stones,  carved  into 
the  shape  of  some  animal.  The  upright  monoliths  are  all  of  the  same 
general  character.  Roughly  speaking,  they  measure  from  three  to  five 
feet  across  the  front  and  sides,  and  stand  from  12  feet  to  25  feet  out  of 
the  ground.  On  both  back  and  front  the  principal  ornament  is  a  human 
figure. 

At  the  back  of  two  of  these  monuments  the  face  is  in  profile,  but  in 
all  the  others  the  figures  stand  full-face,  and  generally  in  a  very  stiff 
attitude.  The  heads  are  sculptured  in  high  relief,  and  are  usually  sur- 
mounted by  curious  grotesque  masks,  from  which  spring  elaborately 
.  carved  feather  head-dresses.  The  ears  are  very  large,  bent  forward,  and 
pierced  for  large  ear  ornaments.  The  body  and  dress  are  carved  in 
lower  relief,  and  are  covered  -with  the  most  intricate  and  elaborate  orna- 
ment, in  which  small  human  faces  and  grotesques  frequently  occur.  In 
some  figures,  one  hand  is  holding  a  sceptre,  but  more  commonly  both 
hands  are  raised,  grasping  the  neck  of  the^  dress.  The  feet  are  always- 
turned  outwards  in  a  straight  line,  and  are  shod  with  highly  ornamented 
sandals,  the  back  of  each  sandal  shaped  into  a  grotesque  human  face ;  bo- 
that  from  the  position  of  the  feet,  heel  to  heel,  these  faces  seem  always 
to  be  scowling  at  one  another. 

There  is  a  general  similarity  in  the  fashion  of  the  drees,  although 
endless  variety  in  the  detail  of  the  ornament ;  but  there  is  one  omamenir 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.  187 

which  is,  I  think,  hardlj  over  absent,  and  that  is  a  small  human  face  or 
mask  placed  over  the  chest ;  and  the  custom  of  wearing  this  ornament 
may  account  for  the  number  of  stone  masks  found  in  every  museum  of 
Central  American  antiquities,  and  possibly  for  those  beautiful  turquoise 
and  obsidian  masks  in  the  Christy  collection. 

The  stone  at  E  on  the  plan  is  the  best  preserved  of  these  monuments, 
and  surpasses  the  others  both  in  the  beauty  of  its  proportions  and  the 
particularly  graceful  arrangement  of  the  feather-work  of  the  head-dress. 
The  largest  stone,  which  is  marked  F,  stands  25  feet  out  of  the 
ground  and  leans  over  at  such  an  angle  that  one  fears  it  will  fall.  The 
upper  surface  being  exposed  to  the  drip  from  the  trees,  is  nearly  worn 
away,  but  the  under  surface  is  in  good  condition,  and  the  large  head 
surmounted  by  a  sort  of  triple  papal  crown  is  in  perfect  preservation. 

But  undoubtedly  the  most  curious  monuments  are  the  large  stones 
carved  into  the  shape  of  animals.  Two  of  these  monuments  I  am  unable 
to  describe,  as  they  were  not  only  more  than  half  buried  in  the  ground, 
but  each  one  had  a  large  forest  tree  growing  on  the  top  of  it.  The  other 
three  stand  above  ground,  and  are  still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 
The  stone  at  D  is  12  feet  10  inches  long,  and  that  at  G  is  louger  and 
narrower.  I  could  not  make  out  what  animals  they  are  intended  to 
represent,  but  both  of  them  have  curved  claws  and  indications  of  armour 
like  an  armadillo.  Each  one  has  a  human  head,  apparently  the  head  of 
a  woman,  between  its  jaws. 

The  monument  marked  B  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  interesting 
of  these  animals.  From  a  rough  calculation  1  believe  this  single  block 
of  stone  to  weigh  about  18  tons.  It  is  symmetrical  in  shape,  the 
pattern  carved  on  either  side  differing  only  in  details.  In  this  case  the 
animal  represented  is  a  turtle,  but  the  resemblance  is  not  very  easily 
made  out,  and  in  fact,  before  the  earth  which  hid  the  lower  part  was 
cleared  away,  I  walked  round  it  time  after  time,  and  could  not  think 
what  to  make  of  it.  In  place  of  a  turtle's  head  is  a  huge  grotesque 
human  head,  with  the  same  out-turned  ears  and  large  car-ornaments 
comn^on  to  the  other  figures  I  have  described.  The  forearm  and  flipper 
can  be  easily  made  out  on  the  left  side,  but  on  the  right  side  the  flipper 
is  not  quite  so  clear ;  the  two  hind  flippers  are  turned  up  at  the  back  of 
the  animal,  and  in  place  of  the  tail  is  the  life-sized  figure  of  a  woman 
sitting  cross-legged  and  holding  a  mannikin  sceptre  in  her  hand.  This 
sceptre  occurs  in  several  other  monuments,  and  is  more  like  the  chil- 
dren's toy  of  a  monkey  on  a  stick,  which  one  sees  sold  in  the  streets, 
than  anything  else  I  can  think  of.  The  whole  surface  of  this  block  of 
stone  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of  ornament  which  it  is  quite  impos- 
sible for  me  to  describe,  but  which  is  fairly  well  shown  in  the  photo- 
graphs I  have  taken ;  and  well  worth  attention  are  the  inverted  human 
masks  or  faces  which  are  very  clearly  cut  on  both  aides  of  the  stone. 
I  do  not  think  there  can  be  much  doubt  that  there  are  still  other 

0  2 


188  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

monuments  completely  buried  beneath  the  ground.  The  monument 
at  L  on  the  plan,  which  is  standing  upright,  and  would  be  probably 
18  feet  high,  has  evidently  been  earthed  up  half  its  height,  and  shows 
how,  in  the  wet  season,  the  frequent  floods  from  the  river  Motagua, 
which  flows  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  ruins,  have 
filed  up  the  original  inequalities  of  the  ground. 

On  the  sides  of  all  the  monuments  are  well-carved  tables  of  hiero- 
glyphics, and  other  groups  of  similar  inscriptions  also  form  part  of  the 
general  ornament.  In  addition  to  these,  which  I  suppose  I  may  safely 
call  hieroglyphics,  there  are  certain  carved  tablets  of  a  very  curious 
character,  which  are  also  arranged  in  squares,  each  square  generally 
containing  two  or  more  involved  figures.  These  are  usually  human 
figures,  but  they  often  have  heads  and  claws  of  animals  or  birds,  and 
the  limbs  so  twisted  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  out  to  which  heads  the 
legs  and  arms  belong.  These  squares  were  best  seen  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  monument  at  C.  They  certainly  do  not  give  one  the  idea  of 
writing,  but  their  arrangement  and  position  are  such  that  they  can 
hardly  be  merely  capricious  ornament,  and  I  think  they  must  have 
some  symbolic  meaning.  Possibly  they  bear  the  same  relation  to  the 
hieroglyphics  that  the  curious  grotesque  pictures  bear  to  the  hiero- 
glyphics in  the  Mexican  manuscripts. 

Nowhere  in  the  neighbourhood  of  these  monuments  could  I  find  any 
trace  of  houses.  At  first  I  thought  that  the  truncated  pyramids  and 
raised  terraces  marked  on  the  plan  might  have  been  the  foundations  of 
dwellings  or  temples,  but  I  could  find  no  trace  of  such  buildings,  and 
houses  built  on  these  raised  terraces  would  have  afforded  but  little 
accommodation.  It  seems  most  probable  that  if  Indians  dwelt  near 
these  monuments  they  built  houses  of  perishable  materials.  At  the 
present  time  there  are  no  Indians  at  all  living  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  The  small  village  of  Quirigud  is  inhabited  by  half-castes 
— Ladinos,  as  they  are  called  in  Guatemala — and  with  the  exception  of 
some  half-dozen  Ladino  families  living  on  the  river  banks,  the  rich 
valley  of  the  Motagua  is  uninhabited  betwoen  QuiriguA  and  the  sea. 

I  do  not  know  how  soon  after  the  conquest  mention  is  first  made 
of  those  monuments,  or  indeed,  if  the  early  Spanish  conquerors  ever 
heard  of  them  at  all ;  but  I  think  it  can  be  shown  that  Heman  Cortez 
must  have  passed  within  twenty  miles  of  them  (and  probably  it  was 
much  nearer),  without  knowing  of  their  existence.  I  came  to  this 
conclusion  in  my  endeavour  to  fix  the  site  of  Cliacujal,  a  town  of 
which  Cortez  gives  a  particularly  clear  description.  In  his  fifth 
letter  to  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  he  describes  his  marvellous  march 
from  the  city  of  Mexico  by  Tabasco  and  Peten,  and  across  the  Eio 
Dulco  to  Honduras;  and  ho  relates  that  when  he  arrived  at  San  Gil, 
on  the  Rio  Dulce,  he  and  his  followers  were  so  near  starvation  that 
he  made  an   expedition  up  the  river  and  along  the  borders  of  the 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.  189 

lake  in  search  of  provisions.  Not  finding  sufficient  provisions  in  the 
small  villages  on  the  lake  shores,  ho  marched  inland,  and  the  furthest 
point  reached  in  this  expedition  was  the  town  of  Chacujal,  where  he 
stayed  eighteen  days,  and  from  which  ho  had  an  exciting  and  dangerous 
passage  hack  to  the  lake  down  the  Rio  Polochic,  which  river  he  calls  by 
the  name  it  still  hears.  The  Indians  had  already  fled  from  the  town 
when  Cortex  arrived  at  Chacujal,  and  he  thus  describes  his  entrance. 
**  Marching  through  the  place  we  arrived  at  the  great  square  where  they 
had  their  mosques  and  the  buildings  round  them  just  in  the  manner  and 
form  of  those  at  Culua ;  we  were  more  overawed  and  astonished  than  we 
had  been  hitherto,  since  nowhere  since  wo  left  Aculan  had  we  seen  such 
signs  of  policy  and  power.  I  entered  with  my  men  into  one  of  those 
spacious  halls  which  they  generally  have  near  the  temples  of  their 
idols.  We  passed  the  night  on  watch,  and  on  the  following  morning 
sent  out  several  parties  of  men  to  explore  the  village,  which  was  well 
designed,  the  houses  well  built  and  close  to  each  other." 

Being  anxious  to  identify  this  town  of  Chacujal,  I  sent  off  one  of  my 
men  with  instructions  to  make  inquiries  among  the  woodcutters  and 
salsaparilla  hunters  at  Panzos,  and  to  search  for  the  ruins  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cahabon  river ;  for  I  thought  that  Cortez  had  landed  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  lake,  and  marched  overland  until  he  had  arrived  at  the 
Cahabon.  My  man  returned  to  tell  me  that  no  such  name  as  Chacujal 
was  known,  that  no  ruins  could  be  found  near  the  mouth  of  the  Cahabon, 
but  that  he  had  cro>sed  over  the  Rio  Polochic,  and  that,  hidden  in  the 
forest  on  the  banks  of  a  stream,  still  called  Rio  Pueblo  Yiejo,  he  had 
found  the  ruined  foundations  of  many  houses,  but  he  added  that  he  could 
find  no  buildings  6till  standing,  nor  any  stone  monuments.  This  position 
on  the  Rio  Pueblo  Viejo  answers  so  well  to  that  described  by  Cort&s, 
that  I  have  no  doubt  my  man  saw  the  ruins  of  Chacujal,  and  it  then 
follows,  that  Cortez  must  have  landed  on  the  south  shore  of  the  lake, 
somewhere  near  the  present  village  of  Yzabal,  not  many  miles  from 
the  monuments  I  have  been  describing.  From  the  neighbourhood  of 
Yzabal,  Cortez  and  his  party  must  then  have  travelled  along  the  spurs 
of  the  Mioo  Mountains,  and,  judging  from  the  appearance  of  the  country, 
it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  he  writes :  "  We  passed  over  mountains 
so  rugged  and  steep  that  we  had  to  make  use  of  our  hands  and  feet  in 
climbing." 

Copan. — Leaving  the  Mice,  I  crossed  the  Motagua,  and  travelled  over 
the  hot  arid  plain  of  Zacapa  to  Chiquimula,  and  thence  crossed  the 
pine-dad  hills  to  Copan. 

The  ruins  of  Copan  have  been  so  admirably  described  and  figured  by 
Stephens  and  Catherwood,  in  their  charming  book  on  Central  America, 
that  I  shall  say  but  little  about  them.  There  are  a  number  of  monu- 
ments somewhat  similar  to  those  at  Quirigud  whi9h  I  have  just 
described,  and  there  is  a  decided  likeness  in  the  dress  and  ornaments  of 


190  EXPLORATIONS  IK  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

the  figures,  and  in  the  character  of  the  hieroglyphics,  bnt  there  is  this 
difference  in  treatment ;  that  whereas  in  Quirigu^  the  human  figures 
form  part  of  the  ornament  of  gracefully  shaped  obelisks,  at  Copan  the 
figures  themselves  are  carved  in  such  high  relief,  that  they  almost 
become  statues,  to  which  the  deeply-cut  scroll-work  and  hieroglyphics 
are  accessories,  and  both  design  and  workmanship  show  a  more  adyanced 
state  of  art,  and  probably  a  later  date.  Another  difference  is  the  total 
absence  of  the  symbolical  or  picture-writing  (as  distinguished  from  the 
hieroglyphics)  which  I  noted  at  Quirigu^ 

I  saw  one  monolith,  not  mentioned  by  Stephens,  which  had  been 
brought  to  light  by  a  villager  when  clearing  away  the  scrub  for  his 
maize  plantation.  It  is  curious  in  its  complete  difference  from  the 
others.  It  stands  about  14  feet  out  of  the  ground,  and  is  covered 
all  over  with  hieroglyphics  cut  in  low  relief.  On  the  front  of  the  stone, 
the  hieroglyphics  are  arranged  diagonally  in  diamond-shapes  instead  of 
squares,  an  arrangement  I  never  noticed  elsewhere. 

The  monument  which  Stephens  calls  the  buried  idol,  is  now  broken 
in  half  and  the  upper  part  fallen  on  its  face.  Whilst  clearing  away 
some  of  the  scrub,  I,  by  chance,  hit  upon  a  circular  altar,  buiied  a  foot 
or  more  in  the  ground,  which  must  formerly  have  stood  in  front  of  this 
idol.  The  altar  is  in  shape  like  a  millstone,  and  measures  four  feet 
across ;  it  has  grooves  cut  on  the  top,  and  hieroglyphics  carved  on  the 
sides.  This  is  the  shape  of  most  of  the  altars  I  found  in  the  ruins  I 
subsequently  visited. 

Journey  to  Northern  Ouaiemala. — ^Prom  Copan  I  rode  through  the  pine 
woods  and  oak  forests  of  the  Cordillera  to  the  city  of  Guatemala,  and 
then  on  to  the  picturesque  but  half  abandoned  city  of  Antigua,  formerly 
the  capital  of  the  country.  This  latter  city  was  built  on  a  small  plain 
between  the  slopes  of  the  great  volcanoes  Agua  and  Fuego,  whose  peaks 
seem  almost  to  overhang  the  town ;  but  the  situation  proved  as  danger^ 
ous  as  it  is  beautiful,  and  Antigua  has  suffered  so  much  from  earth- 
quakes, that  it  is  now  little  more  than  a  city  of  mined  convents  and 
churches. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  places  on  this  side  of  the  country  is  the 
lake  of  Atitlan,  which  lies  amongst  the  mountains  5000  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  Three  volcanoes,  two  of  them  still  active,  rise  from  the 
water's  edge,  and  quaint  Indian  villages  are  dotted  along  the  rocky 
shores.  With  the  exception  of  one  village,  where  there  are  a  few 
Ladinos,  all  the  dwellers  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  are  pure  Indians ; 
and  it  was  at  the  village  of  Atitlan  itself,  where  the  population 
must  number  about  five  thousand,  that  I  had  my  only  difficulty 
with  the  native.  There  the  Indians,  the  women  especially,  took  the 
strongest  dislike  to  my  photographic  camera.  I  had  taken  one  in- 
stantaneous picture  of  the  women  in  the  market-place  before  they 
observed  mei,  but  after  that  they  ran  after  me  and  shook  their  fists. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.  191 

«nd  used  what  I  am  snre  most  have  been  the  very  strongest  language 
whenever  I  appeared.  Then  I  was  waited  on  in  the  Cabildo  by  a 
deputation  of  about  two  hundred  men,  who  apparently  wanted  to  know 
my  business,  but  as  only  one  of  them  could  speak  any  Spanish,  and  he 
was  very  drunk,  it  did  not  mend  matters.  This  sort  of  thing  went  on 
for  two  days,  and  then  I  received  notice  to  clear  out  of  the  town,  but 
luckily  I  was  delivered  from  my  difi&culties  by  the  arrival  of  the  Ladino 
magistrate,  who  was  making  the  round  of  his  district,  and  who  satisfied 
the  Indians  that  I  was  quite  harmless. 

After  wandering  about  for  some  weeks  in  the  beautiful  climate  of 
the  high-lying  plains,  I  passed  down  the  northern  slope  of  the  high- 
lands, and  then  ascended  again  to  the  town  of  Coban  in  the  hills  of  the 
Alta  Vera  Paz, 

Coban  may  be  called  the  limit  of  civilisation  in  this  direction,  and 
each  year  I  have  rested  there  a  week  and  made  preparations  for  my 
journeys  into  the  forest.  It  is  not  a  country  where  preparations  can  be 
made  in  a  hurry,  and  it  was  very  fortunate  for  me  that  my  friend  Mr. 
Sarg,  the  Imperial  German  consul  at  Coban,  took  off  my  hands  all  the 
trouble  of  engaging  Indian  workmen  and  carriers,  and  it  is  to  his 
unvarying  kindness  and  assistance  that  I  owe  much  of  the  success  of 
my  journeys. 

To  the  north  of  Coban  the  country  is  very  little  known,  and  all  the 
published  maps  arc  inaccurate.  Twice  have  I  made  the  dreary  ten  days' 
Journey  through  the  almost  uninhabited  forest  which  lies  between 
Coban  and  Sacluc.  The  track  is  a  very  bad  one,  as  during  six  months 
of  the  year  a  great  part  of  the  low  country  is  flooded,  and  although 
during  the  months  of  March,  April,  and  May  it  is  possible  to  travel  on 
mulcback,  all  baggage  has  to  be  carried  on  the  backs  of  Indians. 

As  one  journeys  northwards  the  limestone  hills  get  lower  and  lower, 
and  as  the  land  becomes  flatter  the  mud  holes  in  the  track  are  longer 
and  deeper,  until  one  arrives  at  the  Paso  Seal,  where  a  ferryman  with 
two  canoes  is  stationed  by  the  Government  to  carry  people  across  the 
Rio  de  la  Pasion.  On  a  level  savannah  10  miles  north  of  the  river 
stands  Sacluc,  the  newly  made  capital  of  the  province  of  Peten,  the 
hottest  and  dreariest  village  it  has  ever  been  my  misfortune  to  stay  in. 
This  village  is  kept  in  existence  as  a  headquarters  of  the  mahogany 
cutters,  who  form  temporary  settlements,  known  as  monterias,  on  the 
banks  of  the  rivers  in  the  neighbourhood. 

About  20  miles  across  the  Savannah,  to  the  north-east  of  Sacluc, 
lies  the  lake  of  Peten,  and  the  curious  little  island  town  of  Flores,  which 
Cortes  visited  on  his  march  from  Mexico,  and  found  covered  with 
temples  and  stone  buildings.  Every  trace  of  these  buildings  has  now 
disappeared  and  given  way  to  a  village  of  the  ordinary  Spanish- 
American  type.  It  was  here  that  Cortez  left  a  disabled  horse,  and  the 
natives  failing  to  keep  it  alive  on  a  diet  of  flowers  and  fowls  and  other 


192  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

offerings  nsnally  made  to  the  gods,  liad  it  copied  in  stone  by  their  most 
skilful  sculptors,  and  set  up  in  a  temple  built  in  its  honour.  Both 
temple  and  horse,  I  believe,  went  down  into  the  lake  dnring  an  earth- 
quake many  years  ago,  but  the  Indians  believe  it  can  still  be  seen,  and 
were  regretting  as  we  were  paddling  across  the  lake  that  it  was  too 
rough  to  look  for  it. 

Tikal. — After  stopping  at  some  of  the  villages  on  the  lake  to  collect 
Indian  workmen,  I  set  off  for  El  Eemate  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  lake^ 
having  already  sent  men  ahead  to  clear  a  track  through  the  forest  to 
Tikal,  a  ruined  town  about  20  miles  from  the  shores  of  the  lake,  which 
has,  I  believe,  only  once  before  been  visited  by  a  foreigner ;  that  visit 
being  made  by  BemouiUi,  who  came  across  the  ruins  when  on  a  botanical 
excursion  in  the  forest.  A  few  years  ago  some  Indian  families  from  the 
lake  tried  to  form  a  settlement  near  the  ruins,  but  they  found  the  place 
so  unhealthy  that  it  had  to  be  abandoned.  With  the  exception  of  the 
deserted  maize  gardens  of  these  Indians,  which  are  now  covered  with 
thick  scrub,  the  whole  site  of  the  ruins  was  covered  with  high  forest  trees. 

During  my  two  visits  (in  the  month  of  April  1881  and  in  April  1882), 
each  of  which  lasted  about  a  week,  I  had  twenty  or  more  Indians  at 
work  clearing  away  the  trees  and  undergrowth  so  as  to  enable  me  to 
take  some  photographs  and  make  a  rough  plan  of  the  town  (on  map, 
p.  248).  The  plan  is  naturally  very  imperfect,  but  I  have  just  been  able 
to  indicate  the  shape  and  size  of  the  stone  houses  near  to  the  house  in 
which  I  took  up  my  quarters,  which  was  evidently  the  most  important 
part  of  the  city,  and  to  give  approximately  the  position  of  the  five  great 
pyramidal  temples  which  are  the  peculiar  feature  of  the  ruins. 

All  the  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  coated  with  plaster ;  and  the 
walls  are  usually  about  three  feet  thick.  Owing  to  the  growth  of  the 
roots  of  trees  and  shrubs,  the  masonry  above  the  walls  and  lower 
cornices  has  been  so  much  displaced,  that  it  is  difficult  to  judge  of 
the  original  shape  of  the  upper  part  of  the  buildings.  Inside  the 
houses  the  walls  are  about  seven  to  eight  feet  high,  and  the  stone 
roof  forms  a  narrow  gable.  Nowhere  is  there  any  trace  of  an  arch^ 
and  the  gable  roofs  and  heavy  masses  of  stonework  above  them 
never  permit  of  the  walls  being  built  more  than  five  or  six  feet  apart, 
and  as  a  consequence  the  interiors  of  the  houses  have  more  the  appear- 
ance of  long  passages  than  of  rooms.  The  outer  doorways  are  invariably 
square-topped,  and  are  supported  by  lintels  made  up  of  three  or  more 
squared  beams  of  the  hard  and  durable  sapote  wood  placed  side  by  side. 
There  are  also  sapote  beams  placed  at  intervals  of  four  or  five  feet  across 
the  vault  of  the  roof.  These  may  have  been  built  in  as  supports,  but 
were  possibly  used  for  the  same  purpose  to  which  we  put  them,  namely 
to  hang  hammocks  to.  Some  houses  are  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation, 
but  in  the  greater  number  the  wooden  lintels  have  rotted  away,  and 
the  buildings  can  be  seen  in  every  stage  of  decay,  and  are  often  merely 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETa  193. 

overgrown  heaps  of  squared  stones.  The  whole  town  has  been  laid  out 
on  a  rectangular  plan,  and  wherever  there  are  differences  of  elevation  the 
ground  has  been  terraced,  and  the  slopes  faced  with  carefully-laid  squared 
stones.  The  houses,  too,  are  often  built  on  raised  foundations,  stone- 
faced  in  the  same  manner. 

The  most  imposing  buildings  are  the  five  temples  raised  on  almost 
pyramidal  foundations.  These  foundations  are  also  faced  with  stone, 
but  the  surfaces  of  the  slopes  are  not  always  flat,  but  arranged  in  rather 
curious  ridges,  which  are  well  shown  in  one  of  the  photographs  I  took. 
In  front  of  the  foundation  projects  the  great  steep  stairway  leading  up 
to  the  door  of  the  temple.  And  the  temple  itself  is  set  back,  so  that  the 
back  slope  of  the  foundation  is  much  steeper  than  the  front  or  sides. 

The  accompanying  sketch  (see  next  page)  shows  the  general  shape 
of  these  buildings,  and  the  following  are  the  dimensions  of  the  temple 
marked  E  on  the  plan.  The  base  of  the  foundation  measures  184  feet  in 
front,  by  168  feet  at  the  sides,  and  the  base  of  the  projecting  stairway 
measures  38  feet  across.  The  height  of  the  front  slope  (measured  on 
the  slope,  which  is  very  steep)  is  112  feet.  The  base  of  the  temple 
measures  roughly  41  feet  by  28  feet,  and  the  height  must  be  over 
50  feet,  but  I  was  not  able  to  measure  it. 

There  is  a  general  similarity  in  the  ground-plans  of  all  the  four 
temples  which  I  was  able  to  measure,  and  the  most  noticeable  features- 
are  the  enormous  thickness  of  the  walls  (shown  in  its  most  exaggerated 
form  in  the  temple  marked  F  on  the  plan),  the  niches  in  the  sides, 
and  the  gradual  narrowing  of  the  buildings  from  front  to  back. 
The  interior  in  each  case  consists  of  two  or  three  narrow  passages 
running  parallel  to  one  another,  and  opening  one  into  the  other  by  broad 
doorways.  At  the  entrance  of  each  doorway  the  ground  rises  in  a  step 
a  foot  high.  These  doorways,  like  those  in  the  houses,  are  supported 
by  wooden  lintels,  and  many  of  them  are  elaborately  carved  on  the  under 
surface. 

When  Dr.  Bemouilli  was  at  Tikal,  he  noticed  these  carved  beams^ 
and  some  time  afterwards  persuaded  some  of  the  natives  to  return  to  the 
ruins  and  cut  out  the  carvings  for  him.  The  natives  accomplished  thiR 
by  tearing  out  the  beams  and  working  them  down  with  axes  until  they 
were  light  enough  to  be  carried,  but  with  the  removal  of  the  beams  a 
good  deal  of  the  stonework  naturally  fell  to  the  ground.  These  carvings 
are  now  lodged  in  a  museum  in  Switzerland,  and  one  small  piece  about 
18  inches  long  is  in  the  Christy  collection  in  Victoria  Street,  West- 
minster. There  are  still  some  carved  beams  left  in  position,  but  they 
are  so  much  decayed  on  the  surface  that  no  copies  of  them  could  be  taken. 
Inside  the  temples  the  walls  are  somewhat  higher  than  they  are  in  the 
houses,  and  the  gable  roofs  also  are  higher  and  form  a  sharper  angle. 

There  is  no  trace  of  any  idol  or  object  of  worship  in  these  buildings, 
but  I  cannot  doubt  their  being  temples  such  as  those  so  often  mentioned 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.  195 

Copan.  In  other  parts  of  the  ruins  I  found  similar  groups  of  stones,  but 
nowhere  in  such  numbers  as  in  this  plaza,  and  usually  they  were  with- 
out any  carved  ornament.  This  may  have  been  because  the  ornament 
had  been  made  of  cement,  and  had  altogether  fallen  away  leaving  nothing 
but  the  flat  surface  of  the  limestone. 

I  saw  one  other  carved  stone  standing  in  the  centre  of  the  courtyard 
of  a  small  house,  and  I  could  just  make  out  the  figure  of  a  man  in  profile 
with  elaborate  ornaments  and  large  feather  head-dress.  The  circular 
altar  in  front  was  well  carved,  but  the  stone  was  so  soft  that  it  even 
crumbled  away  under  the  brush  with  which  I  tried  to  clean  it. 

The  great  discomfort  in  the  exploration  of  these  ruins  is  the  want  of 
water.  Every  drop  we  used  had  to  be  brought  a  distance  of  about 
a  mile  and  a  half,  from  a  small  overgrown  muddy  lagoon  not  more 
than  150  yards  wide;  and  this  water  was  so  thick  and  dirty  that  I 
never  drank  any  of  it  without  first  boiling  it,  and  then  passing  it 
through  a  filter.  An  Indian  seldom  drinks  cold  water  when  travelling 
or  at  work,  but  will  stop  almost  every  hour  to  make  a  fire,  heat  a  little 
water  and  then  drink  it  warm ;  yet  I  could  not  impress  upon  my  work- 
men the  advantage  of  boiling  the  water  and  letting  the  mud  settle,  and 
as  a  consequence  many  of  them  were  attacked  by  fever,  and  my  visit 
had  to  be  somewhat  shortened.  Luckily  the  fever  did  not  seem  to  be 
of  a  very  severe  kind,  and  a  few  doses  of  quinine  soon  pulled  them  round. 
One  of  the  few  survivors  of  the  Indians  from  the  lake,  who  had  tried  to 
settle  near  the  ruins,  assured  me  that  there  was  no  other  water  but  that 
of  the  lagoon,  and  that  the  nearest  stream  was  a  small  branch  of  the 
Hondo  some  miles  to  the  northward,  and  I  failed  to  find  a  satisfactory 
explanation  of  how  water  was  supplied  to  the  large  population  which 
must  formerly  have  inhabited  the  town. 

In  the  plaza  I  found  a  small  hole  in  the  ground  about  eighteen 
inches  across,  cemented  round  the  rim,  and  I  set  some  men  to  work  to 
clear  it  out,  but  as  only  one  man  could  work  at  a  time,  and  he  could  only 
pass  up  the  earth  in  small  baskets-full,  I  was  notable  to  clear  it  properly, 
but  enough  earth  was  removed  to  show  me  that  it  led  to  two  circular 
subterranean  chambers,  six  to  eight  feet  in  diameter.  The  sides  of  these 
chambers  were  not  cemented,  and  it  seems  probable  that  they  were  used 
for  the  storage  of  food;  but  the  same  plan  may  have  been  used  for 
storing  water,  and  as  the  floors  of  the  plazas  were  very  probably  paved 
with  cement,  a  considerable  quantity  of  water  might  have  been  thus 
collected  during  the  rainy  season. 

UsumacifUa. — Betracing  our  steps  to  Saduc  I  will  describe  a  trip  I 
took  down  the  Rio  de  la  Fasion  in  search  of  another  ruined  town. 

During  my  stay  at  Cohan  in  1881,  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  make 
the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Hockstroh,  a  German  gentleman  who  is  a  tutor 
at  the  "Institute  Nacional,"  the  chief  public  school  in  the  city  of 
Guatemala.    Mr.  Bockstroh  had  succeeded  in  persuading  the  Guatemala 


196  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATOIALA,  ETC. 

Government  to  grant  him  six  months'  leave  of  absence  to  explore  the 
rivers  connected  with  the  Usumacinta;  and  when  I  first  met  him  at 
Coban,  bo  had  just  returned  from  one  of  his  excursions.  Unfortunately 
we  could  not  arrange  our  plans  so  as  to  travel  together,  and  I  went  on 
to  Tikal,  whilst  Mr.  Eockstroh  returned  to  his  work  on  the  Salinas  and 
Usumacinta. 

I  again  met  Mr.  Eockstroh  in  the  winter  of  1881-2  in  the  city  of 
Guatemala :  we  compared  notes  and  he  told  me  of  the  ruined  town  which 
he  had  seen  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Usumacinta.  Ho  had  had  neither 
the  time  nor  tho  men  at  his  disposal  to  survey  the  ruins,  but  kindly 
gave  me  all  the  information  he  could,  and  his  description  was  sufficiently 
attractive  to  confirm  my  purpose  of  taking  a  trip  down  the  river. 
Through  the  kindness  of  the  magistrate  at  Sacluc,  and  of  the  manager 
of  the  wood-cutters,  I  was  able  to  got  canoes  and  canoe-mcn  to  convey 
me  and  some  of  my  Indian  workmen  down  to  the  ruins. 

The  ruined  town  for  which  I  was  bound  is  the  lowest  point  on  the 
Usum&cinta  ever  reached  in  safety  by  canoe;  and  between  the  ruins 
and  the  village  of  Teuosique,  lower  down,  the  river  is  totally  unexplored, 
but  is  vaguely  reported  to  consist  of  a  series  of  impassable  rapids  running 
between  high  cliffs.  From  Tenosiqno  to  tho  sea  it  is  again  navigable. 
All  tho  mahogany  and  cedar  cut  on  the  upper  part  of  the  river  is  squared 
and  sawn  into  certain  lengths,  stamped  with  a  number,  date,  and  mark, 
and  then  thrown  into  the  river  and  left  to  find  its  own  way  to  Tenosique, 
where  men  are  always  on  the  look-out  to  secure  it.  And  although  on  my 
passage  down  the  river  I  passed  many  logs  left  high  and  dry,  I  am  told 
that  not  more  than  ten  pe>r  cent,  of  the  wood  is  thus  lost. 

Only  one  attempt,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  has  ever  been  made  to 
navigate  these  rapids,  and  that  was  by  two  wood-cutters,  who,  after  a 
very  festive  evening,  boastfully  started  in  a  canoe  for  Tenosique.  The 
canoe  arrived  in  safety,  but  neither  of  the  men  were  ever  seen  again ; 
as  I  further  learnt  that  they  had  with  them  a  keg  of  that  awful  com- 
pound known  as  native  rum,  it  would  be  hard  to  say  whether  they 
were  killed  by  the  water  or  the  spirit. 

At  the  Paso  Eeal,  where  I  embarked,  the  Eio  de  laPasion  is  a  muddy 
sluggish  stream  about  170  yards  broad,  passing  with  hardly  perceptible 
current  between  low  wooded  banks.  About  45  miles  •  below  the  Paso 
Eeal  this  river  is  joined  by  the  Eio  Salinas,  also  a  muddy  stream, 
70  to  80  yards  broad,  but  with  a  more  rapid  current.  Below  its  junction 
with  the  Eio  Salinas  the  stream  becomes  swifter,  and  is  broken  by 
occasional  rapids,  and  about  20  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas 
it  is  joined  by  a  clear,  rapid  stream,  about  70  to  80  yards  wide,  called  the 
Eio  Lacandon.     It  is  on  the  junction  of  the  Eio  de  la  Pasion  with  the 

*  Tho  didtances  given  from  point  to  point  on  the  rircr  are  merely  guesses  made 
darin<i;  a  hurried  passagu  in  a  canoe,  but  I  beliero  that  a  map  of  the  river  as  far  as  the 
ruins  is  now  being  worked  oat  firom  M.  Bockstroh's  observations. 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.  197 

Rio  Laoandon  that  the  river  takes  the  name  of  Usumacinta.  In  the 
published  maps  the  Salinas  and  the  Lacandon  are  represented  as  one 
and  the  same  river.  A  small  monteria,  the  lowest  down-stream,  is  just 
being  commenced  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Lacandon. 

After  flowing  rapidly  for  8  or  10  miles,  the  Usumacinta  narrows  to 
pass  through  a  range  of  hills — the  channel  in  some  places  not  being 
more  than  40  feet  wide,  with  steep  banks  rising  on  each  side.  The 
current  here  is  not  very  rapid,  but  the  water  appears  to  be  of  great 
depth.  It  is  no  doubt  the  block  occasioned  by  this  range  of  hills  which 
causes  the  tremendous  floods  of  the  Bio  de  la  Pasion  in  the  rainy  season, 
when  the  river  rises  40  and  50  feet,  and  floods  the  country  for  miles  on 
either  side.  For  a  few  miles  below  the  narrows  the  river  widens  and 
narrows  at  intervals,  and  the  current  becomes  very  rapid,  and  appears 
to  increase  in  rapidity  the  lower  one  gets  down  the  river.  It  requires 
considerable  skill  to  guide  the  canoes  safely  between  the  projecting 
rocks  and  snags,  and  very  few  of  the  canoe-men  on  the  river  have 
ever  ventured  below  the  Boca  del  Cerro,  as  they  call  the  entrance  to  the 
narrows.  About  25  miles  below  the  Boca  is  a  spot  known  as  the 
Paso  de  Taohilan,  and  another  15  miles  below  this  one  sees  on  the  left 
hand  an  artificial  heap  of  stones  about  14  feet  high,  built  on  a  low 
rocky  bank  which  runs  out  into  the  river,  and  this  is  the  only  indica- 
tion that  one  has  arrived  at  the  ruins ;  for  here  (as  they  had  bceii  all 
the  way  from  the  Paso  Real)  the  banks  are  densely  covered  with  forest. 

Since  passing  through  the  narrows  we  had  seen  some  of  the  small 
canoes  of  the  Lacandon  Indians  drawn  up  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and 
had  met  two  or  three  of  the  Indians  themselves.  At  one  point  I  walked 
about  two  miles  inland  to  visit  one  of  their  settlements,  which  I  will 
describe  presently. 

On  the  18th  March,  the  day  I  arrived  at  the  ruins,  the  water  in  the 
river  was  so  low  that  the  bank  on  which  the  pile  of  stones  stands  was 
high  and  dry,  but  from  the  colour  and  marks  on  the  stones  it  appears  as 
if  the  average  height  of  the  river  were  two  or  three  foet  below  the  top 
of  the  pile.  On  the  top  of  a  steep  bank,  some  60  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  river,  stands  the  first  row  of  houses,  and  (what  I  am  afraid  the  plan 
but  imperfectly  shows)  the  town  is  built  on  a  succession  of  terraces  to  the 
height  of  more  than  250  feet.  Every  one  of  the  slopes  is  either  formed 
into  a  flight  of  steps,  or  faced  with  well-laid  squared  stones.  Where  the 
plan  is  drawn  with  definite  outlines,  the  houses  are  still  in  a  fair  state 
of  preservation,  but  where  the  outline  is  left  indefinite  the  houses  are 
reduced  to  mere  heaps  of  stones. 

The  town  is  quite  a  small  one,  very  much  smaller  than  Tikal,  but 
one  meets  with  the  same  difficulty  in  making  plans  in  all  the  ruins, 
that  is,  the  rich  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation,  so  rich,  that  as  can  bo 
seen  in  some  of  my  photographs,  trees  of  considerable  size  find 
footing  on  comioes  only  a  few  inches  wide.    The  houses  differ  in  two 


198  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

respects  from  those  at  Tikal.  First,  instead  of  the  long  narrow  interion 
usual  at  Tikal,  these  houses  are  broken  up  into  a  number  of  reoeaaee  by 
the  building  of  inside  buttresses  which,  by  supporting  the  roof  at  intezi- 
vals,  allow  the  gable  to  be  built  at  a  slightly  wider  angle,  and  so  gain 
greater  depth  in  the  recesses.  The  other  difference  is  an  important  one, 
nauiely,  the  employment  of  stone  instead  of  wood  for  lintels.  Many  of 
these  lintels  are  carved  on  the  under  surface,  and  I  have  succeeded  in 
bringing  to  England  one  of  the  best  preserved  of  these  carved  stones.*  I 
took  it  from  a  half-ruined  house,  where  it  had  fallen  from  its  plaoe,  bat 
was  luckily  resting  with  the  carved  side  against  the  wall,  and  had  thus 
been  protected  from  the  weather.  The  stone,  when  I  first  saw  it,  weighed 
about  half  a  ton,  but  by  keeping  men  constantly  at  work  on  it  with  tha 
point  of  a  pickaxe  and  some  chisels  which  I  had  luckily  brought  with 
me,  at  the  end  of  a  week  we  had  chipped  it  down  to  half  its  oiigpnal 
thickness,  and  cut  off  the  two  ends.  Afterwards,  when  it  reached  SabLno^ 
we  cut  it  down  to  its  present  size  with  hand-saws. 

The  Jbouse  marked  D  on  the  plan  is  the  house  in  which  I  took  up 
my  quarters,  and  as  it  is  fairly  well  preserved,  and  as  I  was  able  to  taika 
some  photographs  of  it,  it  will  perhaps  bo  the  best  one  for  me  to  attempt 
to  describe.  The  accompanying  engiaving  is  taken  from  one  of  my 
photographs  of  the  building.  It  stands  by  itself,  about  200  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  river,  raised  on  a  succession  of  terraces.  As  the  gronnd 
plan  shows,  it  is  a  long  narrow  structure  73  feet  long  by  1 7  feet  bzoad, 
with  three  doorways  in  front,  each  with  a  rather  poorly  carved  stone 
lintel.  There  is  a  projecting  cornice  about  two  feet  above  the  height 
of  the  doorways,  which  is  about  level  with  the  top  of  the  wall  imnde. 
Then  rises  a  second  course  of  11  feet  of  stonework,  covering  the  gable 
vault  within,  and  above  this  there  is  a  hollow  superstructure  whidi 
looks  like  a  pigeon-house  with  a  number  of  pigeon-holes;  the  total 
height  of  the  building  being  about  42  feet.  On  the  face  of  the  second 
course  are  a  number  of  squares  which  look  something  like  blocked-np 
windows. 

The  whole  of  the  house  has  been  covered  with  stucco  and  painted 
in  various  colours,  for  traces  of  the  plaster  and  the  colours  can  still  be 
seen;  and  these  apparently  blocked-up  windows  are  the  frames  for 
human  figures  made  in  plaster,  which  were  also  probably  coloured.  On 
the  second  course  there  must  have  been  three  large  figures  and  eight 
small  ones,  and  above,  in  the  centre  of  the  pigeon-hole  course,  is  another 
figure  more  than  twice  life  size.  Of  these  figures  but  very  little  now 
remains ;  only  here  and  there  are  portions  of  a  sort  of  rubble  skeleton 
which  supported  the  plaster.  The  skeleton  of  the  centre  figure  can  be 
clearly  seen  in  the  photographs,  as  it  still  possesses  one  leg,  part  of  the 
body,  the  head,  and  the  prominent  stone  which  supported  the  nose,  but 
all  trace  of  plaster  or  coloui'ing  has  gone.  The  pigeon-hole  courae 
*  Exhibited  bj  Mr.  Maudslay  to  the  Meeting. 


200  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC. 

was  alflo  covered  with  elaborate  stucco  ornament,  but  very  few  pieces  of 
it  now  remain. 

As  all  the  houses  appear  to  have  been  decorated  in  much  the  same 
way,  the  view  from  the  river  in  the  old  days  of  the  white  terraces  and 
the  bright  coloured  houses  with  their  rows  of  sculptured  figures,  must 
have  been  both  picturesque  and  imposing. 

Inside  the  house  I  have  described,  in  the  centre  recess,  is  a  great  stone 
idol,  twice  life  size.  The  figure  is  fairly  well  carved,  and  being  repre- 
sented sitting  cross-legged  with  its  hands  on  its  knees,  reminded  me  much 
of  the  figures  of  Buddha.  The  head,  with  its  grotesque  mask  helmet  and 
large  plumes  of  feathers,  is  broken  off  the  body  and  lies  beside  it.  Over 
the  recess  there  appears  to  have  been  a  sort  of  canopy  of  ornamental 
plaster  work,  probably  supported  by  wood  ;  this  has  fallen  to  the  ground, 
but  pieces  of  the  omapiental  plaster  can  still  be  found  amongst  the 
rubbish  and  broken  pottery  which  choke  up  the  recess. 

The  house  at  E  on  the  plan  (p.  248)  has  inner  rooms,  and  a  passage  with 
steps  leading  down  to  a  vault  at  the  back.  Farts  of  this  vault  are 
roughly  blocked  up  with  stones ;  and  the  house  marked  A  also  has  a 
chamber  at  the  back,  partly  blocked  up  in  the  same  manner.  I  now 
believe  that  these  blocked-up  chambers  are  burial-places,  and  much 
regret  that  I  had  not  time  to  open  any  of  them.  There  are  several- 
circular  altars  in  different  parts  of  the  ruins,  but  the  carving  on  them 
has  almost  disappeared;  and  there  are  three  carved  stone  slabs  like 
those  in  the  plaza  at  Tikal,  but  they  are  fallen,  broken,  and  worn 
out. 

In  nearly  all  the  houses  I  found  earthen  pots,  partly  filled  with  some 
half-burned  resinous  substance.  Some  of  these  i)ots,  in  the  same  state 
as  I  found  them,  I  have  brought  to  England  and  now  exhibit  to  the 
Meeting.  They  were  in  great  numbers  round  the  idol  in  the  house  I 
lived  in.  Some  look  much  newer  than  others,  and  many  are  in  such 
positions  that  it  was  clear  that  they  had  been  placed  there  since  the 
partial  destruction  of  the  houses.  I  have  little  doubt  that  they  have 
been  made  and  brought  by  the  Lacandon  Indians,  who  still  live  in  an 
untamed  state  in  small  communities  on  l^e  banks  of  these  rivers ;  and 
if  my  conjecture  be  correct,  it  may  be  that  the  fact  of  these  Indians  still 
holding  in  reverence  the  temples  built  by  their  ancestors,  and  making 
offerings  of  incense,  has  led  to  the  story  which  for  many  years  has  been 
current  in  Central  America,  that  there  yet  exists  an  inhabited  Indian 
city,  hidden  away  in  the  forests,  and  still  flourishing  as  in  the  days 
before  the  conquest.  Stephens  repeats  the  story  as  it  was  told  to  him 
by  the  laughing  padre  at  Sta.  Cruz  Quiche,  who  said  that  from  the  top 
of  a  high  mountain  on  the  road  to  Chiapas  he  had  himself  seen  "  a 
large  city  spread  over  a  great  space,  with  turrets  white  and  glittering  in 
the  sun."  As  the  country  has  become  a  little  better  known,  the  mystic 
city  has  been  driven  further  back  into  the  forest,  until  it  had  arrived  at 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEilAL^V,  ETC.  201 

the  banks  of  tho  Usumacinta,  and  now  it  must  be  driven  down  stream 
to  the  impassable  rapids. 

There  are  two  conclusions  which,  I  think,  we  may  fairly  arrive  at 
with  regard  to  these  ruins.  One  is,  that  the  town  is  of  greater  antiquity 
than  Tikal ;  for,  notwithstanding  the  advantage  of  stone  lintels,  many 
of  the  houses  are  now  mere  heaps  of  stones ;  and  in  the  single  house  in 
which  I  could  find  that  wooden  lintels  had  been  used,  not  one  particle 
of  the  wood  was  remaining.  The  other  is  that  those  stone  houses  were 
only  used  for  public  purposes,  or  by  a  privileged  class,  as  it  seems  most 
improbable  that  the  small  number  of  persons  which  these  houses  would 
have  accommodated  could  have  performed  all  the  work  of  terracing, 
house-building,  and  decoration.  I  cannot  help  further  suggesting  that 
the  pile  of  stones  on  the  river-bank,  which  was  possibly  then  a  well-built 
pyramid,  marked  a  passage,  and  that  this  town  may  have  risen  into 
importance  as  a  crossing-place  between  the  Maya  cities  of  the  north,  and 
the  sacred  city  of  Palenque.  What  makes  this  view  more  probable 
is,  that,  as  far  as  we  know,  for  many  miles  below  this  point  the  river 
forms  a  succession  of  impassable  rapids. 

After  we  had  commenced  working  at  these  ruins,  as  our  supplies  of 
food  were  rather  short,  I  sent  some  of  my  canoe-men  up  the  river  to  buy 
plantains  from  the  Lacandon  Indians.  The  men  returned  the  next  day 
without  many  plantains,  but  with  something  carefully  wrapped  up  in  a 
piece  of  paper,  which  proved,  much  to  my  surprise,  to  be  a  card  from 
M.  Desire  Chamay,  the  head  of  the  Franco- American  scientific  exploring 
expedition,  who,  for  two  years,  has  been  at  work  at  the  antiquities  of 
Mexico  and  Yucatan.  M.  Chamay  had  come  through  the  forest  from 
Tenosique,  a  most  troublesome  journey,  and,  arriving  at  Yachilan, 
without  canoes  to  bring  him  and  his  party  down  the  river  to  the  ruins, 
was  just  about  to  set  to  work  to  build  a  canoe  when  he  met  my  men. 
The  next  day  I  sent  up  my  canoes  for  him ;  and  M.  Chamay,  leaving 
his  party  camped  at  Yachilan,  came  on  with  his  assistant  and  some 
canoe-men,  kindly  bringing  me  some  provisions  for  my  men;  and  T 
had  the  pleasure  of  his  company  during  the  rest  of  my  stay  at  the  rains. 
M.  Chamay  has  made  a  most  valuable  collection  of  paper  moulds  from 
carvings  and  inscriptions  in  Yucatan  and  Mexico,  casts  from  which  are 
now  exhibited  at  the  Trocadero  in  Paris.  Amongst  them  is  a  cast 
from  the  lintel  of  the  next  doorway  in  the  house  from  which  this 
stone  was  taken,  and  other  carvings  from  these  mins;  and  I  have 
promised  a  copy  of  the  stone  I  have  brought  to  England  to  add  to  the 
collection. 

I  parted  with  M.  Chamay  at  Yachilan  on  my  way  up  the  river,  and 
ho  started  on  his  march  back  to  Tenosique,  and  thence  by  river  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  was  hard  work  paddling  the  canoes  up  against  the 
strong  current,  and  the  canoe  with  the  heavy  stone  in  it  had  to  be 
hauled  along  from  the  high  banks  and  projecting  rocks  for  a  great  part 

No.  IV.— Apbil  1888.]  p 


202  EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETa 

of  the  way ;  we  were  thuB  six  days  getting  back  to  the  moTith  of  the 
Salinas,  a  distance  of  not  more  than  75  miles. 

On  my  way  np  stream  I  again  went  to  the  settlement  of  the  Laoan- 
dones.  On  my  first  visit  I  had  only  seen  two  women,  as  all  the  men 
were  away  hunting  for  wild  cacao  in  the  forest.  These  women  received 
lis  very  well,  and  were  not  in  the  least  frightened  ;  in  fact,  they  seemed 
more  at  their  ease  and  better  mannered  than  Indian  women  in  the 
civilised  part  of  the  country.  On  my  second  visit  the  men  had  returned, 
and  they  appeared  equally  friendly.  These  people  speak  the  Maya 
dialect  of  Yucatan,  and  I  was  able  to  talk  to  them  through  one  of  my 
canoe-men  who  knew  something  of  their  language.  We  rested  in  a 
detached  shed,  but  on  my  saying  to  one  of  the  men  that  I  should  like  to 
enter  a  house,  he  told  mo  that  he  was  afraid  of  the  dogs  biting  me ; 
however,  ho  opened  the  door  of  his  house  for  me  to  look  in,  and  I  was 
greeted  by  yells  from  half-a-dozen  dogs  all  straining  at  their  ropes  to 
get  at  me,  and  there  were  two  or  three  more  held  back  by  the  womeir. 
In  the  very  hasty  glance  round  I  could  see  nothing  different  from  an 
ordinary  Indian  ranche. 

In  the  clearings  round  the  houses  were  growing  maize,  tobacco, 
chilis,  tomatoes,  and  calabash  and  cotton-trees.  The  Indians  seemed  to 
be  well  off,  and  looked  healthy.  All  wear  the  same  sort  of  garment, 
made  from  a  material  which  they  weave  themselves.  It  is  something 
like  a  sack,  both  in  colour  and  shape,  reaching  below  the  knee,  and 
having  holes  cut  for  the  head  and  arms ;  sometimes  loose  sleeves  are 
added.  Each  one  of  them  wore  several  necklaces  of  brown  seeds  orna- 
mented with  the  small  bones  of  an  animal,  or  with  a  few  glass  beads 
and  silver  coins,  but  nothing  that  I  could  offer  them  would  tempt  them 
to  part  with  a  single  necklace. 

In  colour  these  people  were  much  lighter  than  any  of  my  Indian 
workmen.  They  all  had  thick  lips,  prominent  nose,  and  extraordinary 
receding  forehead,  nearly  as  represented  in  the  figures  on  the  carved 
stones.  Their  only  weapons,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  were  bows  and  stone- 
tipped  arrows.  A  few  of  these  Indians  live  about  the  monterias,  and 
become  rather  the  pets  of  the  wood-cutters ;  yet,  although  I  was  always 
asking  questions,  I  could  learn  very  little  about  them.  They  are  said 
to  be  few  in  number,  scattered  about  in  small  communities  of  two  or  three 
families  along  the  river  banks.  These  communities  are  often  at  war 
with  one  another — the  object  of  the  wars  being  to  carry  off  women. 

On  my  way  up  stream  I  heard  of  some  carved  stones  in  the  forest 
just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas,  and  on  landing  and  scrambling 
through  the  thick  scrub  up  the  steep  bank,  I  came  upon  the  remains  of 
a  town  of  considerable  size,  indicated  by  a  number  of  raised  foundations 
and  terraces,  but  I  could  find  no  stone  houses.  There  were  several  carved 
circular  altars  all  much  weather-worn. 

After  returning  to  Sacluc  and  visiting  Tikal,  as  already  narrated,  I 


EXPLORATIONS  IN  GUATEMALA,  ETC.— DISCUSSION.  203 

«ct  off  across  the  cotiiitry  to  British  Honduras.  The  carriage  of  our 
heavy  sculptured  stone  was  no  easy  matter.  The  track  is  level,  bnt 
wretchedly  bad,  and  our  pace  was  so  slow,  that  when  half-way  to  the 
frontier  I  had  to  pnsh  on  ahead  in  order  to  catch  a  steamer  at  Belize, 
and  to  leave  it  to  my  half-caste  hunters  with  seventeen  Indian  carriers 
to  bring  it  to  the  frontier  village.  This  they  did  successfully,  and  the 
stone  was  then  sent  down  the  river  in  a  canoe  and  shipped  at  the  port 
of  Belize. 

In  conclusion  let  me  say  that  I  have  always  mot  with  uniform  civility 
irom  the  Guatemala  Government  officials  from  the  President  downwards, 
•and  much  kindness  and  assistance  from  all  the  foreign  residents  with 
whom  I  have  come  in  contact. 

In  introducing^e  aotbor  to  the  Meeting,  the  Chairman  (Sir  J.  H.  Lefrot)  said  the 
paper  to  be  read  was  by  Mr.  Mandslay,  who  had  had  the  good  fortune  to  disinter 
ruins  in  Central  America  previously  unknown  to  travellers,  and  to  add  greatly  to  the 
interest,  both  scientiGc  and  archaeological,  of  ruins  already  known  to  exist.  The 
Jincient  Indian  village  of  Quirigud,  for  example,  which  was  one  of  the  places  explored 
by  him,  had  been  partly  described  by  Stephens,  but  Mr.  Maudslay's  researches 
added  much  to  our  previous  knowledge.  The  ruins  of  Tikal  although  previously 
•visited  by  M.  BemonilU  were  described  for  the  first  time  by  him.  Other  travellers 
had  skirted  but  very  few  had  crossed  the  great  range  of  the  Sierra.  Mr.  Maudslay 
had  in  fact  explored  a  country  of  which  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  knew  next 
to  nothing.  With  the  exception  of  Captain  Brine's  paper,  he  did  not  think  anything 
had  been  read  before  the  Society  about  that  region  for  fifty  years.  Lake  Peten  was 
surrounded  by  legends  of  a  very  interesting  kind.  Mr.  Maudslay  had  reached  that 
lake,  and  thence  descended  by  the  river  Usumacinta  to  a  ruined  city  of  the  same 
name,  hitherto  unknown.  Only  twenty  years  ago  a  Capuchin  monk,  from  the  Rio 
de  la  Passion,  asserted  that  of  his  own  knowledge  human  sacrifices  were  offered  by 
the  Caribs  in  the  mountuns  of  Central  Guatemala ;  but  the  area  of  mystery  was, 
by  Mr.  Maudslay's  travels,  driven  still  further  inland.  The  whole  region  was  one  of 
legend  and  fiEtble,  and  the  paper  would  be  sure  to  excite  the  interest  of  the  Meeting. 

After  the  paper — 

Captain  Lixdesay  Bbdje  said  that  about  thirteen  or  fourteen  years  ago  he  crosseil 
the  American  continent  from  the  Pacific  coast  near  Guatemala  to  the  Atlantic  at 
Sisal  in  Yucatan,  passing  by  the  Lake  Atitlan,  St.  Cruz  de  Quiche,  Ocosingo,  and 
Palenque,  and  through  Yucatan  to  Uxmal,  the  route  he  took  being  very  much  the 
6ame  as  that  taken  by  Stephens  in  1840.  His  object  was  to  see  the  Indian  tribes 
inhabiting  that  region  and  the  class  of  monuments  to  be  found  there,  and  to  ascertain 
whether  there  was  any  connection  between  those  monuments  and  the  Egyptian 
temples,  or  the  ancient  Buddhist  temples  in  Upper  Burmah.  He  spent  four  months 
on  the  journey,  and  he  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  there  was  no  traceable  link 
hetween  the  temples  in  Burmah  which  he  had  visited  and  those  in  Central  America. 
There  was  also  nothing  to  connect  the  Egyptian  hieroglyphics  with  those  found  on 
■the  monoliths  in  that  country.  The  Indians  there  still  spoke  the  language  of  the 
Indians  of  the  time  of  Cortez.  The  pyramidal  monuments  alluded  to  by 
Mr.  Maudslay  with  steep  steps  leading  to  the  top  were  sacrificial  altars.  The  larger 
groups  of  stone  buildings  were  temples  in  which  the  priests  and  chiefs  lived,  the 
lower  classes  no  doubt  living  in  smaller  houses  and  huts,  now  all  destroyed.  He 
considered  that  what  was  existing  there  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  by  the  Spaniards 
was  not  of  very  great  antiquity.    The  preservation  of  the  Zapote  wood  beams  and 

P  2 


204  SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

lintels  showed  that  it  was  nojt  necessarj'  to  consider  the  temples  to  be  older  than 
about  three  centuries  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards.  At  that  time  the  Indians 
were  rising  towards  a  decided  condition  of  progress,  and  it  was  to  be  regretted  that 
they  bad  not  hod  a  fair  chance  of  develo[)ing  the  highest  attainable  state  of  Indian 
civilisation. 

The  CnAiRU AK  said  it  was  a  singularity  almost  unexampled  in  history,  that  a 
race  whose  "power  and  policy"  aroused  the  wonder  of  Cortez  three  or  four  centuries 
ago,  had  now  passed  away,  and  their  descendants  had  reverted  to  what  was  known 
as  the  stone  age.  Captain  Brine,  in  the  paper  which  he  read  before  the  Society, 
mentioned  their  actual  use  at  this  time  of  stone  weapons,  and  Mr.  Maudslay  and 
Mr.  Hartley  had  noticed  the  same  thing.  He  was  inclined  to  consider  the  antiquity 
of  the  ruins  perhaps  greater  than  Captain  Brine  seemed  to  think,  but  they  are  by  no 
means  all  of  the  same  age.  He  wished  to  express  his  g'-atification  that  an  English- 
man had  entered  the  lists  with  the  various  scientific  Ibreigners  who  were  exploring 
this  r^on.  The  country  was  not  100  miles  from  a  British  fron|iier,  and  it  would 
be  very  hard  if  harvests  were  reaped  there  by  Frenchmen  and  Grermans  instead  of  by 
Englishmen,  through  the  apathy  of  the  British  or  the  Colonial  Government.  There 
was  an  unread  chapter  of  history  in  the  ruins.  Probably  the  characters  to  be  seen  on 
the  lintel  before  the  Meeting,  were  not  alphabetical,  but  simply  a  memoria  technical 
intelligible  only  to  those  who  already  knew  what  was  recorded,  and  if  so  there  could 
be  but  faint  hopes  of  recovering  the  key.  Great  efforts  were,  however,  being  made, 
though  not  in  England,  to  interpret  them.  In  conclusion  he  proposed  a  vote  of 
thanks  to  Mr.  Maudslay  for  his  interesting  paper. 


Second  Voyage  of  the  *  Eira'  to  Franz-Josef  Land.* 
(Read  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  February  12th,  1883.) 
IKIap,  p.  248. 
The  Eira  left  Peterhead  on  the  14tli  of  June,  1881,  with  a  company  of 
twenty-five  explorers,  officers  and  men,  the  objects  of  the  voyage  being 
geographical  exploration  and  discovery.     The  intention  was  to  extend 
and  complete  the  knowledge  which  was  acquired  of  the  coasts  of  Franz- 
Josef  Land  during  the  previous  season  of  1880. 

On  June  22nd  the  ice  was  met  with  in  72®  45'  N.  and  longitude 
17°  20'  E.,  and  the  edge  was  followed  until  the  30th,  when  Novaya 
Zomlya  was  sighted  in  73°  1'  N.  As  no  opening  was  found  in  the  ice 
an  attempt  was  made  to  enter  the  Kara  Sea,  which  failed.  This  occupied 
the  time  until  the  middle  of  July. 

On  July  13th  an  opening  was  found  in  the  ice  in  73°  53'  N.  and 
longitude  46°  8'  E. ;  and  the  Eira  steamed  northward  through  large 
water-holes,  the  ice  being,  for  the  most  part,  very  much  decayed.  But 
as  they  advanced  northwards  it  became  much  closer  and  thicker,  and 
many  large  floes  were  passed.  One  was  at  least  15  miles  long,  and  it 
took  three  hours  to  pass  it.     Several  necks  of  ice  had  to  be  charged  and 

•  Drawn  up  from  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  journals  by  C.  B.  Markham,  c.b.,  f.r.s., 
Secretary  b.g.s. 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  £IBA  TO  FlUNJWOSEF  LAND.  206 

broken  through,  and  twice  the  Eira  was  caught  between  large  floes ; 
but  she  received  no  damage.  During  this  time,  and  afterwards, 
ootton-gunpowder  was  found  very  useful  in  blasting  the  ice. 

After  ten  days  of  ice  navigation  the  goal  was  reached.  Franz- Josef 
Land  was  sighted  on  the  23rd  of  July,  the  Eira  steaming  towards  Cape 
Ludlow.  This  is  the  opening  which  was  found  to  be  impenetrable  in 
the  previous  season.  Now,  however,  although  there  was  a  close  pack  to 
the  north,  a  lane  of  open  water  extended  W.S.W.,  and  the  Eira  reached 
a  point  further  west  than  had  been  possible  in  1880.  Thus  the  land 
was  seen  connecting  Cape  Ludlow  with  Cape  Lofley,  the  latter  being 
the  extreme  point  of  land  hitherto  discovered. 

On  the  24th  it  was  foggy,  and  the  drifting  floes  were  very  thick, 
some  of  them  so  hummocky  that  not  a  level  space  could  be  seen.  As  the 
thick  weather  continued,  and  there  appeared  to  be  little  chance  of  pene- 
trating further  north,  the  Eira  began  to  steam  inshore,  and  passing 
between  icebergs  and  overhanging  glaciers  the  explorers  entered  Gray 
Bay  where  it  was  quite  calm  and  the  sun  was  shining  brightly.  Many 
walrus  were  basking  on  patches  of  ice,  and  seventeen  were  shot.  Near 
the  ship  was  an  old  seabeach,  90  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  clifiEs  of  columnar  basalt  about  800  feet  high.  Many  flowers  were 
in  bloom,  among  them  a  Potentilla  which  had  not  been  found  before  on 
Franz-Josef  Land.  Innumerable  birds  were  breeding  on  the  surrounding 
clifiG^  A  heavy  gale  was  blowing  outside,  and  on  the  28th  there  was 
more  rain  than  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  had  ever  seen  before  in  the  Arctic 
regions. 

After  a  stay  of  five  days  in  Gray  Bay,  he  steamed  out  to  Cape 
Orowther,  where  thirty-five  walrus  were  killed ;  but  as  it  was  thick 
weather  and  much  ice  was  drifting  shorewards,  the  Eira  was  brought 
back  to  her  safe  refuge,  and  remained  there  until  August  2nd.  On 
that  day  David  Island  was  visited,  and  much  fossil  wood  was  found 
there.  The  course  of  the  Eira  was  then  directed  towards  Bell  Island, 
but  the  entrance  of  Eira  Harbour  was  closed  with  fast  ice.  Some  ice- 
bergs, coming  down  Nightingale  Sound,  had  ploughed  their  way  through 
the  land-floe  and  left  lanes  of  water  behind  them,  up  which  the  Eira 
steamed.  The  ice  was  quite  level  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  but  the 
lanes  soon  ended,  and  on  August  6th  the  explorers  returned  to  Bell 
Island.  The  next  few  days  were  occupied  in  building  a  store-house  on 
Bell  Island,  the  materials  for  which  had  been  brought  out  for  the 
purpose.  The  house  was  christened  Eira  Lodge^  and  in  its  honour  a 
dinner  was  given  on  board  the  steamer,  followed  by  a  concert  and  ball 
in  the  lodge. 

On  August  15th  the  Eira  steamed  through  Bates  Channel  into 
Gunther  Bay,  and  on  the  next  day,  after  landing  at  Cape  Flora,  Mr.  Leigh 
Smith  proceeded  towards  Barents  Hook.  He  intended  to  go  eastward,  and 
search  for  the  JeanneUe^  but  the  pack  ice  was  close  down  upon  the  land- 


206 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EISA  TO  FRAKZ-JOSEF  LAND. 


floe,  and  no  progress  could  bo  made.  The  weather  was,  however,  very 
fine  and  culm,  and  some  days  were  spent  near  Cape  Flora,  dredging  and 
collecting  fossils  and  plants. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  21st  of  August,  the  sun  was  shining 
hrightlj  and  it  was  nearly  calm.  There  was  nothing  to  warn  the 
explorers  of  the  approach  of  a  disaster  that  was  so  near  at  hand.  Th©- 
pack  ice  came  in  with  the  tide,  and  the  Eira  was  caught  between  it  and 
the  land-floe.  She  was  protected  ty  a  grounded  berg,  and  for  some  time 
no  serious  injury  was  done  to  her,  although  she  received  several  severe 
nii)B.  But  suddenly,  when  the  worst  seemed  to  be  over,  the  berg  gave 
way.  Shortly  afterwards  the  Eira  heeled  over  to  port,  away  from  the 
land-floe,  and  it  is  supposed  that  a  tongue  of  ice  went  through  her  side, 
near  the  fore  rigging.  The  pumps  were  powerless  to  keep  down  the 
water.  So  all  hands  were  emjitloyed  in  passing  provisions  out  of  the 
forecastle,  hold,  and  the  cabin,  on  to  the  ice,  and  in  saving  everything 
that  could  be  got  at. 

As  the  good  ship  went  down  the  ice  caught  her  jib-boom  and  broke 
it  short  oflf.  Then  the  lower  yards  held  her  for  a  few  seconds  and 
righted  her.  But  they  soon  broke  in  the  slings  with  a  loud  crash,  the 
yardarms  turning  upwards  as  she  settled  down,  first  the  lower  yards, 
then  the  tojisail  and  top-gallant  yards,  *' She's  awa\"  the  men  ex- 
claimed sorrowfully  ;  '*  she  was  our  home ;  she  was  a  bonny  ship." 
When  she  reached  the  bottom  in  11  fathoms,  the  main  and  fore  topmasts 
were  still  al>ove  water.  Looking  down  from  the  ice  they  could  see  her 
quite  distinctly,  and  did  not  perceive  any  injury  done  to  the  hull- 

A  tent  was  rigged  up  on  the  ice,  made  of  spars  and  sails  rescued 
from  the  ship,  a  firo  was  lighted  and  tea  was  made.  Then  after  a  good 
supper,  no  one  having  eaten  anything  since  breakfiist,  all  turned  in  except 
the  watch.  Early  next  morning  they  began  to  take  the  stores  that  had 
been  saved  to  Cape  Flora  in  the  boats,  and  when  everything  liad  been 
landed  a  tent  was  pitched  on  an  old  seabeach  covered  with  turf  and 
flowers,  about  20  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Some  spars  and 
planking  floated  up  from  the  ship,  and  were  secured  during  the  23rd ; 
and  on  the  same  day  two  bears  and  many  looms  were  shot. 

The  destruction  of  the  Eira  was  a  very  serious  loss.  So 
admirably  adapted  a  vessel  was  sure  to  have  done  more  useful  work  in, 
the  coming  years.  During  August  1880  she  had  been  the  means  of 
enabling  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  his  party  to  examine  the  southern  coast 
of  Franz-Josef  Land  and  its  ojBT-lying  islands,  and  to  observe  the  physical 
aspects  of  the  region,  as  well  as  to  make  valuable  collections.  In  1881 
similar  work  had  been  done,  while  the  Eira  had  demonstrated  the 
comparative  facility  with  which  Franz-Josef  Land  can  usually  bo 
reached.  So  that  she  was  a  serviceable  ship  and,  in  her  brief  career, 
she  had  rendered  really  good  service  to  geographical  science. 

The  stout-hearted  Britons  who  found  themselves  thus  left  shelterlesa 


« 
I 


SECOKD  VOTTAGE  OF  THE  ETRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND.  207 

on  those  icy  ehores  to  face  the  rigours  of  an  Arctic  winter,  and  with 
only  a  small  heap  of  stores  around  them,  set  to  work  at  once  to  make 
the  best  of  their  perilous  situation.  They  at  first  intended  to  make 
for  the  store-house  erected  a  few  days  before  at  Bell  Island.  But  there 
was  so  much  ice  in  the  channel,  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  across,  so 
they  prepared  to  winter  on  Cape  Flora.  On  August  26th  they  began  to 
build  a  hut  of  turf  and  stones ;  the  cold  in  the  tent  was  so  intense, 
that  the  men  could  not  sleep ;  the  wind  blew  it  down,  and  the  rain 
came  through,  wetting  ever^'thing. 

During  the  rest  of  August  the  shipwrecked  explorers  were  building  the 
hut,  and  busily  employed  collecting  driftwood  and  shooting  looms,  walrus, 
and  bears.  Their  very  existence  depended  on  their  success  in  obtaining 
fresh  animal  food,  and  it  was  most  providential  that,  in  this  part  of  the 
Arctic  regions,  it  was  possible  to  live  on  the  resources  of  the  country 
throughout  the  winter.  Eira  Harbour  was  visited  on  September  1st,  the 
boat  crossing  Gunther  Channel  to  the  store-house  at  Bell  Island,  a  distance 
of  12  miles.  Poles  for  roofing  the  hut,  some  salt,  and  six  bags  of  coals 
were  brought  back.  During  the  autumn  21  walrus,  13  bears,  and  about 
1200  looms  were  shot.  By  the  end  of  October  the  birds  had  all  departed. 
Besides  the  twenty-five  human  beings,  three  other  shipmates  on  board 
the  Eira  landed  at  Cape  Flora.  One  was  the  black  retriever  "  Bob,"  a 
most  useful  companion,  who  often  found  bears  and  walrus,  and  gave 
timely  warning  to  his  human  &iends.  On  October  28th  he  discovered 
some  walrus  on  the  edge  of  the  ice,  at  a  distance  of  300  yards  from  the 
hut,  and  brought  all  the  sportsmen  down  with  their  rifles.  Tlie  result 
was  that  five  were  killed,  but  some  got  into  the  water,  sank  to  the 
bottom,  and  had  to  be  got  up  with  harpoons  fastened  to  long  poles.  Bob 
also  gave  frequent  warnings  of  the  vicinity  of  bears.  The  other  ship- 
mates were  a  kitten  and  a  poor  little  canary  bird  which  survived  until 
Xew  Year's  Eve. 

The  provisions  landed  from  the  ship  consisted  of  1500  lbs.  of  flour, 
400  lbs.  of  bread,  a  barrel  of  salt  meat,  1000  lbs.  of  preserved  meat  and 
800  of  soups,  tobacco  enough  to  give  each  man  2  oz.  a  week,  60  gallons 
of  rum,  a  few  cases  of  biandy  and  whisky,  some  sherry,  6  dozen  of 
champagne,  plenty  of  preserved  vegetables,  and  some  small  stores.  There 
were  also  1  cwt.  of  coals  and  some  wood  saved  from  the  ship  and  6  bags 
of  coal  (cwt.  each)  brought  over  from  the  store-house  at  Bell  Island.  But 
all  the  coal  was  used  by  January  8th,  and  from  that  time  the  only  fuel 
was  blubter.  The  preserved  meats  and  soups  were  kept  for  the  boat 
voyage,  and  were  not  used  during  the  winter.  They  had  no  lime-juice. 
Each  man  received  1^  lb.  of  fresh  meat,  |  of  a  lb.  of  preserved  vegetables, 
4  lb.  of  flour,  tea,  and  rum  every  day.  More  meat  was  used  when  the 
stock  was  large.  Altogether  the  daily  consumption  was  35  lbs.  of  meat 
and  10  lbs.  of  vegetables. 

The  routine  during  the  winter  was  as  follows : — Breakfast  for  all 


208  SECOND  VOTAGE  OF  THE  EZRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

hands  coneisted  of  about  iO  lbs.  of  bear  and  walrns  meat  cnt  up 
small  and  made  into  soup  with  some  vegetables,  which  was  boiled  for 
about  four  hours.  Each  man  also  had  about  a  pint  of  tea,  with  sugar 
and  milk.  This  meal  was  served  at  8  a.m.  Dinner  was  at  12.30, 
when  about  15  lbs.  of  bear  and  walrus  were  boiled  up  with  vege- 
tables and  made  into  sconce  or  soup ;  and  each  man  also  had  a  dough-boy 
made  with  \  lb.  of  flour,  and  boiled  in  the  soup.  Five  o'clock  tea  con- 
sisted of  10  lbs.  of  meat  made  into  soup  with  vegetables,  and  a  pint 
of  tea.  A  glass  of  rum  was  served  out  at  6  p.m.  On  Saturdays  there 
was  a  larger  allowance  of  rum.  The  ship's  cook,  named  Masson,  a  hard- 
working, cheerful  fellow,  did  all  the  cooking  except  the  dough-boys, 
which  were  made  by  Captain  Lofley  while  the  flour  lasted.  It  came  to 
an  end  on  April  30th.  The  cook  was  at  work  from  6  a.m.  to  6  p.m.,  and 
often  it  was  very  trying  and  disagreeable  work ;  while  his  mate,  a  lad 
of  sixteen,  cut  up  the  blubber  and  wood,  and  helped  in  other  -ways. 
Br.  Noale  undertook  the  duty  of  weighing  the  provisions,  and  serving 
out  the  meals  in  twenty-five  cans  made  out  of  old  provision  tins.  These 
were  handed  to  the  men,  who  sat  up  in  bed  and  ate  their  food  like  so 
many  blackbirds  in  a  nest.  On  Sunday  morning,  at  9 .  30,  the  ship's  bell 
rang  for  prayers,  and  Dr.  Neale  performed  divine  service.  There  were 
festivities,  consisting  of  a  grand  dinner  followed  by  a  concert,  on 
Christmas  Eve  and  Kew  Year's  Eve. 

During  the  winter  the  men  employed  themselves  in  making  and 
mending  clothes  and  boots,  and  in  darning  and  hitching  stockings. 
Some  books  and  several  musical  instruments  had  been  saved,  and  the 
men  amused  themselves  by  reading,  playing,  and  singing.  They  also 
had  several  packs  of  cards,  and  often  played  eucre  and  other  games. 

There  was  not  much  total  darkness;  even  on  the  21st  December 
there  was  about  four  hours'  twilight.  The  moon  was  only  away  ten 
daj's  each  month,  when  she  would  have  been  of  little  use,  and  remained 
always  above  the  horizon  for  some  days  before  and  after  full  moon. 
The  auroras  were  not  very  frequent  or  brilliant ;  they  resembled  thin 
gossamer  clouds  lighted  by  the  moon. 

The  most  important  work  during  the  winter  was  the  capture  of 
bears  and  walrus,  and  in  this  the  retriever  "  Bob  "  was  a  most  efficient 
auxiliarj'.  On  the  14th  of  January  his  zeal  led  to  his  receiving  a  hug 
from  a  bear  before  it  died  ;  on  the  24th  he  found  five  sea-horses  on  the 
ice,  gave  notice,  and  three  were  secured.  On  the  25th  he  enticed  a  bear 
to  follow  him  up  to  the  hut,  when  it  was  killed.  Thus,  by  diligent 
watchfulness,  and  by  being  always  on  the  alert,  and  aided  greatly  by 
the  sagacity  of  "  Bob,"  sufficient  fresh  meat  was  obtained  to  last 
throughout  the  winter.  The  health  of  the  men  was  in  this  way  pre- 
served during  all  this  trying  time,  and,  although  they  had  no  lime-juice, 
there  was  no  sign  of  scurvy.  The  immunity  from  sickness,  and  especially 
irom  the  dreadful  disease  which  so  often  disables  the  Arctic  explorer,  was 


SECOND  VOTAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND.  209 

due  to  the  abundance  of  fresh  meat.  Nothing  conld  have  been  more 
confined  than  the  accommodation  afforded  by  the  hut ;  it  was  often 
difficnlt  to  take  regular  exercise.  The  predisposing  causes  were  there, 
but  the  abundant  supply  of  fresh  animal  food  sufficed  as  a  perfect 
antidote.* 

In  May  the  men  were  busy  making  sails  for  the  boats,  and  preparing 
for  the  attempt  to  escape  southwards  as  soon  as  the  navigation  was 
possible.  The  weight  of  the  boats  made  it  impracticable  to  drag  them 
for  any  distance  over  the  ice.  There  were  no  means  of  undertaking 
sledging  expeditions,  but  the  state  of  the  ice,  especially  up  the  fiords 
and  straits,  showed  that  much  exploring  work  might  easily  have  been 
done  by  sledges,  and  that  a  considerable  extent  of  coast-line  could  have 
been  examined  by  travelling  parties. 

By  the  1st  of  June  the  open  water  was  about  five  miles  from  the 
land,  running  east  and  west,  and  at  least  10  miles  wide.  The  inter- 
vening ice  was  examined,  but  it  was  found  to  be  too  rough  for  dragging 
the  boats  over.  On  the  13  th  there  was  a  gale  of  wind,  which  broke  the 
ioe  up  in  Gunther  Sound,  and  a  crack  widened  close  in  shore  until  it  was 
a  mile  across,  communicating  with  the  open  water  in  the  offing.  On  the 
14th  a  boat  was  sent  over  to  Eira  Lodge,  returning  with  salt,  sledge 
oooking-apparatus,  and  four  walrus.  Some  days  were  employed  in 
cooking  and  tinning  up  the  walrus  for  the  boat  journey.  Finally,  on  the 
21st  of  June,  they  set  out  on  their  perilous  boat  voyage,  in  the  hope  of 
reaching  Novaya  Zemlya,  and  of  there  being  picked  up  by  some  vessel. 

There  have  now  been  two  winters  passed  on  the  coast  of  Franz- Josef 
Land.  The  TegeUhoff,  in  1873-4,  oflf  Wilczek  Island,  was  in  79°  43'  N. ; 
Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  in  1881-2,  was  100  miles  farther  west,  and  13  miles 
more  to  the  north  on  Cape  Flora,  in  79°  56'  N.  Both  these  winter- 
quarters  had  a  southerly  aspect.  Nordenskiold,  in  1872-3,  wintered  at 
Moiisel  Bay,  on  the  north  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  in  79°  54'  N.,  in  nearly 
the  same  latitude  as  the  winter-quarters  of  Leigh  Smith,  but  with  a 
northerly  aspect.  At  these  three  stations  the  winters  were  very  much 
less  severe  than  on  the  same  parallel  in  Smith  Sound,  owing  apparently 
to  the  expanse  of  ocean,  where  the  ice  is  in  motion,  more  or  less, 
throughout  the  coldest  months.  In  December  there  was  a  very  remark- 
able rise  of  temperature  at  Cape  I'lora,  accompanjdng  a  southerly  wind 
and  very  heavy  falls  of  snow.  The  thermometer  rose  as  high  as  -f-  31°, 
and  the  mean  of  the  month  was  -f-  4°.  A  similar  phenomenon  occurred 
at  the  AlerCs  winter-quarters  in  1875,  during  the  coldest  winter  that  has 
ever  been  observed,  and  at  the  most  northern  station  ever  reached.    On 

*  The  blood  of  tho  animals  killed  was  kept  in  a  frozen  state,  to  prevent  any  chemical 
change.  The  daily  allowance  was  cut  cat  and  thawed  over  the  fire.  We  bad  about 
two  hundred  six-pound  this  of  potatoes  which  had  been  peeled,  parboiled,  and  then 
tinned  up  whole.  The  temperature  in  the  hut  was  so  low  tliat  all  the  moisture  was 
fhocn  out  of  the  air  and  deposited  in  the  form  of  snow  or  ioe  on  the  walls  and  roof. — 
[B.  Lbioh  Smith.] 


210  SECOND  VOTAGE  OF  THE  ElBA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

December  2nd,  during  a  sonth-easterly  wind,  the  thermometer  roee  to 
-\-  35%  and  it  was  afterwards  ascertained  that  a  remarkable  rise  in 
temperature  was  experienced,  at  the  same  time,  on  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland,  the  disturbance  arriving  at  the  northem  stations  twenty-four 
hours  afterwards.  The  heat  excess  above  the  normal  temperature  was 
as  much  as  58°.  In  the  case  of  Cape  Flora,  this  rise  was  probably  caused 
by  the  southerly  winds  coming  direct  from  the  expanses  of  open  sea  to 
the  south.  Its  effects  on  the  conditions  of  animal  life  in  Franz-Josef 
Land  are  very  important. 

The  coldest  months  at  Cape  Flora  were  January,  February,  and 
March,  when  the  thermometer,  which  did  not  register  lower  than  —  43**, 
was  down  to  that  point j  and  the  mean  of  the  first  two  months  was  —  26*^. 
In  April  the  mean  rose  to  —  1°*25,  and  in  May,  when  an  unusual 
quantity  of  snow  fell,  the  mean  was  +  22°. 

The  southerly  gales,  with  rises  of  temperature,  had  the  effect  of  pro- 
ducing open  water  throughout  the  winter.  Two  days  before  Christmas 
the  bay  ice  was  broken  up,  and  there  was  water  within  300  yards  of  the 
shore.  At  New  Year  s  Day  there  was  open  sea  all  round,  and  as  far  as 
the  horizon,  and  about  Bell  Island,  and  this  continued,  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent,  throughout  the  winter  months. 

The  presence  of  open  water  of  course  ensures  its  being  frequented  by 
walrus  and  bears  all  the  year  round,  and  by  flocks  of  birds  during  eight 
months  out  of  the  twelve.  Whenever  and  wherever  there  was  water, 
there  also  walrus  were  found,  and  as  there  was  more  or  less  open  water 
in  every  month,  this  resource  alone  was  sufficient  to  sustain  life,  while 
the  fresh  food  thus  afforded  is  the  best  antiscorbutic  But  the  water 
was  too  far  off  for  them  to  get  to  it,  over  the  hummocky  ice  in  March, 
April,  and  May,  and  consequently  they  got  no  walrus  in  those  months. 
During  the  winter  twenty-four  walrus  were  secured,  besides  five  just 
before  leaving  the  winter-quarters  in  June.  Bears  were  also  constantly 
prowling  about  during  the  winter,  thirty-four  were  killed  during  the 
time  that  the  explorers  were  in  the  hut  on  Cape  Flora ;  and  there  were 
foxes  during  the  same  period.  But  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that  all  the 
bears  shot  during  the  winter  were  males.  The  first  female  bear  was 
shot  on  the  13th  of  March. 

The  first  bird  was  seen  on  the  8th  of  February,  and  again  on  the 
16th  and  19th.  It  proved  to  be  a  snowy  owl.  Then  the  dovekeys^  little 
black  guillemots,  made  their  appearance  in  the  open  pools  of  water  as 
early  as  February  18th.  On  the  23rd  there  were  flocks  of  birds,  and 
early  in  March  the  looms  and  rotges  were  all  coming  back.  An  ivory 
gull  appeared  on  April  20th,  and  snow-buntings  a  few  days  afterwards. 
In  June  brent  geese  began  to  arrive,  and  from  April  to  June  500  looms 
were  shot. 

The  experience  of  the  Austro-Hungarian  Expedition  points  to  the 
total  absence  of  deer,  hares,  and  ptarmigan  on  Franz-Josef  Land,  and 


SECOND  VOYAQE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEV  LAND.  211 

tluB  is  ooRoborated  by  the  observations  of  tbe  Eirda  crew.  But  only 
the  south  coast  and  Austria  Fiord  have  been  explored,  and  it  may  be- 
that  the  Arctic  land  animalB  frequent  valleys  and  beaches  in  some  other 
part  of  what  is  evidently  an  extensive  mass  of  land.  The  fact  that  rein^ 
deer  either  now  exist  on  Franz- Josef  Land,  or  once  did  roam  over  it» 
valleys  and  crop  the  rich  herbage  of  Cape  Flora,  has  been  established  by 
Mr.  Leigh  Smith ;  for  he  found  a  portion  of  an  antler. 

The  comparative  abundance  of  animal  life  takes  much  from  the 
terrors  of  a  winter  on  Franz-Joeef  Land,  because  it  reduces  the  danger 
of  passing  that  season  without  a  ship,  and  ensures  immunity  from 
scurvy. 

Li  June  the  preparations  for  retreat  were  completed.  There  were- 
foar  boats,  two  walrus-boats  20  feet  long  and  two  vhale-boats  25  feet- 
long.  Each  walrus-boat  carried  six  men  and  tins  containing  266  lbs.  of 
preserved  meats,  184  lbs.  of  soups,  204  lbs.  of  walrus  and  bear,  84  lbs.  of 
biscuit,  besides  tea,  milk,  rum,  and  tobacco.  One  whale-boat  carried, 
seven  moii,  the  other  six  men  and  the  dog  *'  Bob,"  and  they  were  pro- 
visioned accordingly.  The  preserved  meats,  soups,  and  biscuit  had  been 
reserved  for  the  boat  voyage,  and  were  not  used  during  the  winter. 
Each  boat  had  a  chronometer  and  ^compass,  a  copy  of  ICorie's  naviga- 
tion, a  sextant  or  quadrant,  telescope  and  field  glasses,  and  a  chart. 
Two  of  the  boats  were  provided  each  with  a  rifle  and  gun,  and  the  two- 
others  had  each  two  rifles.  All  had  plenty  of  ammunition,  a  sledge- 
cooking-apparatus,  a  water-cask,  and  blubber  for  cooking;  a  bag  of 
clothes,  a  tin  soup-plate,  tin  mug  and  spoon,  for  each  man ;  blankets  and 
awning ;  an  ice-anchor,  five  oars,  an  axe,  two  harpoons,  one  lance,  two- 
seal-clubs,  two  boathooks,  mast  and  sails.  Hot  tea  was  made  during  the 
journey,  morning  and  evening,  and  a  hot  dinner  cooked  daily. 

On  Wednesday,  the  21st  of  June,  1882,  the  boats,  provisions,  and  stores 
were  taken  down  to  the  edge  of  the  fast  ice,  a  distance  of  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  hut.  The  explorers  then  had  tea  in  the  hut,  their  last 
meal  in  the  rough  but  efTective  shelter-place  which  had  been  their  home 
for  so  many  months.  They  left  six  bottles  of  champagne  in  the  hut  in 
case  any  one  might  call.  The  meal  over,  they  blocked  up  the  door,  gave 
a  hearty  parting  cheer,  went  down  to  the  boats,  and  began  to  load  them. 
Everything  was  ready  by  9.30  p.m.,  the  boats  were  launched,  sail  was 
made,  and  they  went  away  before  a  strong  north-west  wind.  The  boats- 
were  very  deeply  laden  and,  there  being  a  rough  sea,  they  shipped  a. 
great  deal  of  water.  The  men,  however,  easily  baled  it  out,  and  were 
delighted  at  the  rapid  progress  they  were  making  southwards.  No  ice 
was  seen  until  the  following  evening  at  5.30,  when  the  pack  was 
sighted  in  latitude  78"  36'  N.,  being  80  miles  south  of  Cape  Flora.  After 
working  along  the  edge  of  the  pack  to  the  westward,  for  some  distance, 
an  opening  was  found,  and  the  boats  entered  it  at  about  2  o'clock  in  th& 
morning  of  the  23rd.    There  was  then  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  south 


212  SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EZRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

which  opened  out  the  ice,  but  unfortunately  brought  a  Bnow-stonn  with 
it,  which  filled  the  boats  with  snow. 

At  8  P.M.  on  the  23rd  the  wind  changed  to  the  north,  and  the  ice 
soon  began  to  close  up  again,  so  that  after  going  a  few  miles  the  boats 
had  to  be  hauled  up  on  a  floe,  to  escape  being  nipped.  There  they 
remained  until  the  end  of  the  month,  the  thick  fogs  and  tightly-packed 
ice  making  it  advisable  not  to  move.  But  in  the  meantime  the 
north  winds  drove  the  pack,  and  the  boats  with  it,  a  good  deal  to  the 
south. 

The  1st  of  July  opened  with  a  bright  clear  morning,  and  there  were 
some  leads  in  the  ice.  So  the  boats  started  at  4  a.m.  The  crews  went  zig- 
2agging  through  narrow  leads,  dragging  the  boats  over  pieces  of  ioe,  and 
occasionally  sailing  through  pools  of  water.  Towards  evening  the  boats 
were  caught  between  two  floes,  and  nearly  crushed.  But  after  an  hour 
they  again  got  into  some  open  water,  eventually  hauling  the  boats  on 
the  ice  for  the  night. 

This  was  very  severe  work  for  the  boats,  which  were  much  shaken, 
and  began  to  leak  badly.  Some  progress  was  made  during  the  following 
day,  the  8rd  of  July,  which  opened  with  a  beautiful  blight  morning ; 
but  although  there  was  water  running  east  and  west,  nothing  but  ice 
could  be  seen  to  the  southward.  There  was  much  laborious  work  in  the 
following  days,  hauling  the  boats  on  the  ice  and  launching  them  again 
until,  on  the  7th  of  July,  they  reached  a  more  extensive  lane  leading 
south-west,  in  about  latitude  77°  33';  but  the  next  day  the  ice  was 
closer,  and  one  of  the  boats  got  nipped,  stove  a  plank,  and  had  to  be 
hauled  on  the  ice  to  repair.  Similar  laborious  work  occupied  the  time 
until  July  10th,  when  at  last  there  was  more  extensive  water,  which 
enabled  the  boats  to  make  good  a  distance  of  12  miles  to  the  south  and 
south-east.  On  the  11th  the  ice  again  closed  in,  and  it  was  necessary 
to  haul  the  boats  up  in  latitude  77°  9'  N.,  and  longitude  47°  6'  E. 
In  this  way  gradual  progress  was  made,  with  a  great  deal  of  hauling 
up,  and  across  necks  of  ice,  and  laimching  again,  all  hands  being 
required  at  each  boat.  On  the  14th  and  15th  there  was  thick  weather 
and  heavy  rain,  the  floes  becoming  very  slushy  and  rotten,  with  plenty 
of  pools  of  fresh  water.  On  the  22nd  there  was  a  strong  gale  with 
snow,  the  water  was  quite  rough,  and  the  boats  shipped  several  seas. 
The  men  got  wet  and  were  bitterly  cold ;  but  the  progress  was  becoming 
daily  more  satisfactory,  and  on  the  24th  they  were  in  latitude  75°  41' 
N.  They  began  to  feel  and  see  the  swell  of  the  ocean.  Still,  how- 
ever, the  ice  stopped  the  progress  southwards,  and  the  severe  work  of 
hauling  up  the  boats  and  launching,  though  not  incessant,  was  still 
necessary. 

On  the  31st  of  July  the  ice  was  packed  close  and  grinding  together 
so  that  no  progress  could  be  made.  But  the  floe  on  which  the  boats 
were  hauled  up  was  broken  asunder,  and  the  piece  on  which  the  boats 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  ElRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND.  213 

rested  became  not  more  than  100  feet  long  by  50,  so  in  the  evening  they 
started  again,  rowing  S.S.W.  through  open  sailing  ice.  On  August  1st 
the  boats  were  again  hauled  up,  and  the  piece  of  ice  again  broke  in  two. 
The  boats  drifted  apart  while  the  worn-out  explorers  were  asleep.  That 
evening  they  came  to  the  edge  of  the  pack  and  got  into  the  open  sea, 
rowing  eastwards  for  the  Novaya  Zemlya  coast.  On  the  2nd  there  was 
a  heavy  thunder-storm  with  rain,  followed  by  strong  wind  and  a  high 
sea,  so  that  the  boats  took  in  much  water.  But  the  perils  of  this  long 
boat  voyage  were  nearly  over,  and  at  3  p.m.  of  August  2nd  they  sighted 
land  after  forty-three  days.  Since  leaving  Cape  Flora  they  had  killed 
two  bears,  three  seals,  and  about  400  looms. 

The  boats  were  hauled  up  on  the  beach,  near  the  entrance  of  the 
Matyushin  Shar.  Eound  the  point  were  the  WiUem  Barents,  Dutch 
exploring  vessel,  and  the  Hope,  under  the  command  of  Sir  Allen  Young, 
who  had  come  out  to  search  for  and  to  succour  the  missing  crew  of  the 
Eira.  The  little  Kara  was  also  in  the  strait,  with  Sir  H.  Gore  Booth 
and  Mr.  Grant.  So  the  explorers  found  themselves  suddenly  in  the 
midst  of  friends,  receiving  a  most  cordial  welcome  from  those  gallant 
sympathisers  who  had  come  to  those  ice-covered  seas  to  their  rescue.  All 
anxiety,  all  trouble,  all  danger  were  over  in  a  moment  and  in  the  most 
pleasant  way.  Old  and  tried  friends  were  there  on  the  very  threshold 
ready  to  supply  all  the  wants  of  the  long-missing  explorers.  It  was 
with  no  ordinary  feelings  of  thankfulness  and  gratitude  on  one  side,  of 
relief  and  welcome  on  the  other,  of  delight  and  joy  all  round,  that  the 
group  of  friends  met  in  the  Matyushin  Shar. 

Thus  the  voyage,  begun  with  such  high  hopes  in  June  1881,  was 
finished.  A  valuable  steamer,  admirably  adapted  for  ice  navigation, 
was  lost,  and  this  undoubtedly  is  a  very  great  calamity.  But  the  prin- 
cii>al  objects  of  the  expedition  were  fulfilled,  and,  in  addition,  much 
useful  experience  was  gained  during  the  winter,  which  was  not  contem- 
plated. The  facility  with  which  the  coast  of  Franz-Josef  Land  was 
reached  on  different  meridians  in  1880  and  in  1881,  forms  an  accu- 
mulating mass  of  evidence,  when  considered  with  reference  to  other 
voyages,  tending  to  show  that  this  recently-discovered  region  is  a  suit- 
able base  whence  to  push  exploration  northward  towards  the  pole.  The 
bergs  on  the  south  coast  appear  to  have  a  prevailing  drift  westward, 
as  would  naturally  be  expected.  It  is  a  well-kno>vn  Arctic  canon  that 
eastern  shores  of  northern  lands  are  more  encumbered  with  ice  than  the 
western  shores,  and  the  voyages  of  the  Eira  point  to  the  western  side 
of  Alexandra  Land  as  the  route  along  which  the  pole  must  next  be 
approached.  The  discovery  that  the  winter  is  comparatively  mild  along 
the  southern  coast  of  Franz-Josef  Land,  that  there  is  more  or  less  oi>en 
water  in  every  month,  and  that  animal  life  abounds,  is  another  valuable 
result  of  the  expedition. 

It  may  with  truth  be  said  that  the  Eira  explorers,  who  wintered  on 


"214  SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRAXZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

■Cape  Flora,  who  bravely  endured  so  many  hardships,  and  who  enoonn- 
tered  so  many  dangers,  have  not  worked  in  vain.  They  have  done  their 
«hare,  and  a  good  share,  in  the  advancement  of  geographical  knowledge. 

Extracts  from  Mr.  Leigh  SHrrH's  Diary. 
I.  Winter  at  Cape  Flora^  Fram-Josef  Land, 

Aug.  22nd,  1881. — Gretting  stores  on  shore.  Killed  t>%'0  beam.  23rd. — 
Bringing  spars  from  ship.  Shooting  looms.  2AtJi  and  25th. — Collecting  drift-wood. 
"Shooting  looms.  2Gth. — Began  to  build  the  hut.  28<A.— Killed  two  walrus. 
■29th. — Building  hut :  finished  the  walls.  Killed  during  the  month  after  the  ship 
was  lost :  two  walrus,  two  bears. 

Sept.  Ist. — Boat  to  Eira  harbour  for  salt,  coals,  and  poles  for  roof.  2nd. — ^Two 
Ijoats  away  after  walrus :  got  two  old,  two  young.  3rrf.-— Got  four  walrus.  Ath  and 
r)th. — Gale  from  the  west.  Gth.—GaXe  from  the  north.  Put  roof  on  the  hut :  got 
into  the  hut.  7th. — Put  fire-place  in  hut.  8tL— Calm  and  warm.  Plenty  of 
water  to  go  south.  Got  six  walrus  and  one  bear.  9th. — Foggy.  10th. — Snow 
and  fog.  11th. — Fog  and  thaw.  Ice  back  again.  East  wind.  IRth  and  nth. — 
Got  a  bear  each  day.  Idth,  20lh,  and  21st. — Fetching  ice  from  pond.  22nd  and 
23rd. — Smoke  intolerable  :  building  new  fire-place.  2Qth. — ^Thermometer  down  to 
zero.  28th. — Mild.  Killed  during  the  month  fourteen  walrus,  three  bears.  West  wind. 

Oct.  4th.— Got  a  bear.  5th  and  9<A.— Plenty  of  open  water.  10th  and  12th.— 
Got  a  bear  each  day.  2lst. — Took  stock  of  provisions  and  made  a  reduction  in 
daily  allowance.  Fine  sunset.  Qot  two  bears  in  the  evening.  22nd. — Sun  did 
not  rise.  2Sth. — Our  retriever  "  Bob "  found  some  walrus  on  the  edge  of  the  ice 
about  300  yards  from  the  hut,  we  went  down  with  all  the  rifles  and  killed  five,  but 
some  of  them  got  into  the  water  and  sank  to  the  bottom,  and  had  to  be  got  up  with 
harpoons  fastened  to  long  poles.  31s^ — Got  a  bear.  Birds  have  all  left.  Killed 
<luring  the  month  five  walrus,  six  bears.  Temperature  of  the  montii :  mean,  +  8*95; 
highest,  +  47 ;  lowest,  —  11. 

Nov.  ith.— Got  a  bear.  ll^A. — Got  a  bear ;  five  were  seen.  nth. — ^Moon  did 
not  rise.  18^7*. — Began  the  coal  to  cook  the  dinner.  2Bth, — The  thermometer  is 
much  higher  than  at  the  beginning  of  the  month  and  we  feel  too  warm  indoors. 
SOth. — Rebuilding  fire-place ;  it  falls  down  occasionally  and  part  of  the  wall  of  the 
hut  near  it  has  fallen  in :  killed  during  the  month  two  bears.  Temperature  of  the 
month:  mean,  —  1*25;  highest,  +  29;  lowest,  -  22. 

Dec.  2nd. — Took  stock  of  provisions.  Bear  and  seahorse  enough  to  last  until 
^larch,  I  hope,  and  about  thirty  pieces  of  salt  meat.  All  the  tinned  meats,  about 
1100  lbs.  of  meat,  and  800  lbs.  of  soup,  I  want  to  keep  for  the  boats  going  down. 
We  have  plenty  of  vegetables.  Zrd. — ^Looms  all  gone  ;  we  had  over  1000.  21*^. — 
Four  hours  twilight :  shortest  day.  General  rejoicing.  Men  made  a  drum  and  had 
a  concert.  23rd. — Bay  ice  broken  up,  and  water  up  to  the  ground  ice  within  300 
yards  of  the  shore.  24:th. — Christmas  Eve:  feast  and  singsong.  25fh. — The 
thermometer  rose  to  31°  outside :  big  dinner.  31«^. — Canary  died.  Got  no  bears  in 
December  but  saw  several.  Another  feast  and  concert.  Temperature  of  the  month : 
mean,  +  4'79 ;  highest,  +  31 ;  lowest,  -  24. 

Jan.  lfi^  1882. — Bright  moonlight  and  aurora.  Big  dinner.  2nd. — Plenty  of 
wate.  to  be  seen  in  the  offing,  oi-d. — Water  about  Bell  Island.  Got  a  bear.  4th. — 
Water  right  round  and  as  far  as  the  horijson.  Bear  killed  on  hut.  We  estimate 
that  there  is  a  ton  of  blubber  left.    Sth. — Coal  all  gone,  use  blubber  only.    14th. 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EZRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 


215 


— A  bear  shot,  bat  be  gave  the  dog  "  Bob  '*  a  hug  before  he  died.  2ith. — ^Bob 
fonnd  five  seahorse  on  the  ice.  We  went  down  with  four  rifles  and  a  gun,  and 
succeeded  in  killing  three  before  they  got  into  the  water.    2bth. — A  bear  followed 


B51n*  AB. 
IUJ)«rt)tan  A.B, 


I  tort  yT'^'Ol^) 


AIljuiAJB. 

VklKtblc^ETHXB'jaB 

M'JBIlni  A.B .  &«c?  AD 


■'a 


^: 


Han  orf 
FLORA  COTTAGE 

C(\PE  riOHA.FflAN*Jt  J05,E1F  I.Ain>, 


Brrti^th  life     ,ftti^. 

■      ^       *       t     .*      T       t      t     ^. 


HB.  LEIGH  smith's  WINTEK-QUABTERS. 

Bob  up  to  the  hut  and  was  killed.  "We  have  now  enough  meat  and  Iblubber  to 
relieve  us  from  all  anxiety.  Killed  during  the  month,  four  bears  and  three  seahorse. 
Temjcrature  o"the  month:  mean,  -  25'7;  highest,  -  4;  lowest,  —  43. 


216  SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

Fth.  1«^— Open  water.  4/^.— Shot  a  fox.  hth,  6th,  7<7i.— Very  stormy.  8<Aw— 
Walrus  playing  about  in  the  water.  First  bird  seen,  moat  likely  a  snowy  owl 
lOM. — A  bear  killed  in  front  of  hut.  16th. — A  bird  seen.  One  of  the  sailors 
shot  a  walrus  on  the  ice  and  came  back  for  assistance,  but  when  we  got  to  the 
place  the  walrus  was  in  the  water,  and  we  could  not  get  him.  16th. — Fetching 
ice.  Beautiful  day.  Water  by  Bell  Island.  18th. — Beautiful  day.  Seahorse 
and  flocks  of  dovekics  seen  in  water.  Idth. — A  snowy  owl  seen.  Moon  up. 
20^. — Bear  seen  going  into  a  hole  on  the  face  of  the  hill;  three  men  <?ent  up 
with  the  repeater  rifle,  but  it  froze  and  would  not  go  off.  Bear  seen  on  the  floe, 
grand  chase,  but  he  got  away.  Walrus  seen  in  the  water.  2lst. — Sun  back 
again,  but  the  sky  was  cloudy  and  we  could  not  see  it.  22nd. — A  bear  came,  was 
wounded,  but  got  away.  23rrf.— Flocks  of  birds  seen  flying  and  in  the  water. 
24<A.— Open  sea.  25<A.— Saw  sun  for  the  first  time.  27^A.— Saw  flocks  of  binis. 
Sun  set  at  2.45.  2Sih. — Stock  of  fresh  meat  will  not  last  a  month;  made  a 
reduction.  Killed  during  the  month  one  bear.  Temperature  of  the  month :  mean, 
—  26-7;  highest,  +  25  ;  lowest,  -  43. 

March  lat. — Three  bears  seen.  2nd. — Bear  came  but  got  away.  Walrus  seen. 
Rotges  seen.  Another  bear  seen.  3rd.— A  bear  killed  close  to  the  hut;  the  nine- 
teenth. 4<A.— Scraping  snow  off  inside  of  hut,  two  inches  thick.  Ten  days  since 
it  was  done.  5th. — A  bear  seen.  Birds  seen  flying  to  the  west.  A  burgomaster 
seen.  7th. — ^A  bear  killed.  No.  20.  9th. — Birds  seen  flying  west.  Looms  seen 
flying  south.  A  female  bear  and  cub  killed.  All  bears  killed  in  the  winter  were 
males.  10th. — Looms  and  rotges  seen.  Saw  a  seal.  11th. — Got  six  dovekiea.  A 
bear  seen.  12M. — A  goose  or  duck  seen.  Rotges  seen.  13th. — A  female  bear  got, 
No.  23.  20</j.— Rotges  seen  on  hill.  23rrf.— Put  skylight  into  roof.  26<A.— Looms 
on  hill,  A  bear  got,  No.  24.  27th.— Two  bears  got,  Nos.  25  and  26.  A  little  water 
seen  up  Gunther  Bay.  28th. — Cracks,  with  a  little  water  outside  of  land-floe. 
29th. — A  bear  came  but  got  away.  Looms  on  hill.  Killed  during  the  month,  eight 
bears,  six  dovekies.  Temperature  of  the  month:  mean,  —  1*4;  highest, +  24; 
lowest,  —  43. 

April  4//i. — Some  men  went  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  saw  water  up  Nightingale 
Sound  and  to  the  west  and  south,  but  a  long  way  off.  6th. — A  bear  killed,  No.  27. 
10th. — Water  about  six  miles  off.  16th. — Two  bears  seen.  nth. — Blubber  getting 
short.  Began  to  use  wood  again  to  cook  the  dinner.  ISth. — Got  a  bear.  We  arc 
all  delighted,  as  the  stock  of  fi-esh  meat  was  getting  very  low  and  the  blood  all  used 
up.  Men  up  the  hill  shooting  looms,  got  twenty-seven  looms  and  three  rotges. 
Beautiful  day,  19th.— Got  a  bear  but  he  was  very  thin.  No.  29.  A  snowy  owl 
seen.  Beautiful  day.  20th. — ^A  snow-bird  seen.  A  falcon  seen.  Beautiful  day. 
2ith. — Two  snow-buntings  seen.  A  molly  seen.  A  bear  killed.  No.  30.  28th. — 
Walked  round  the  hill,  killed  twenty  looms.  Splendid  day.  29th. — First  mate  and 
some  men  went  to  the  top  of  the  hill  behind  the  hut,  they  took  the  aneroid  barometer 
with  them,  and  found  the  hill  to  be  1300  feet  high.  They  could  see  water  to  the 
south  and  south-west  a  long  way  ofl".  BOth. — Had  "  doughboys "  for  the  last  time, 
there  is  a  little  flour  lefr,  but  we  shall  use  it  to  thicken  the  soup.  Killed  during  the 
month  four  bears,  fifty  looms.  Temperature  of  the  month  r  mean,  — 1*25 ;  highest, 
-I-  23 ;  lowest,  -  18. 

May  2nd. — A  bear  got.  We  arc  very  glad,  as  we  were  much  in  want  of  blood 
and  blubber.  5th, — Killed  fifty-two  looms,  fired  seventeen  shots.  6th. — Killed 
forty-one  looms,  fired  seventeen  shots.  7ih. — Got  a  bear,  No.  32.  Killed  eighteen 
looms,  fired  three  shots.  Sugar  all  used.  9th. — Blubber  all  used  up.  10th. — Very 
little  fire-wood  left.  11th. — Began  to  make  sails  for  the  boats  and  to  get  ready  for 
starting.    ISth, — Walked  across  the  floe  towards  Cape  Gertrude,  found  the  snow 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  AY/M  TO  FKANZ-JOSEF  LAND.  217 

hard  and  easy  to  walk  over.  15</*. — Put  skylight  in  our  bedroom.  16th. — Killed 
twenty-eight  looms,  fired  thirteen  shots.  17th. — Took  the  roof  off  the  jwrch. 
Walrus  meat  all  used  up.  No  ^ater  to  be  seen.  ISth. — Snow  is  now  melted  in  the 
kettles  during  the  cooking,  so  wc  do  not  have  a  fire  at  night.  Idth. — Have  not  seen 
a  bear  since  the  7tb  of  this  month.  20th. — This  is  the  day  the  Austrians  startod  in 
their  boats.  Killeil  thirty-seven  looms,  fired  thirteen  shots.  A  lane  of  water  about 
six  miles  off.  Only  three  weeks*  fresh  meat  left.  Got  a  fine  bear.  No.  33.  Never 
more  pleased.  21«<. — Pools  of  water  up  Gunther  Sound.  Killed  forty-five  looms, 
fired  fifteen  shots.  22nd. — A  bear  seen.  Water  comes  in  near  Bell  Island.  A 
crack  one  foot  wide  in  the  ice  about  a  mile  off.  Killed  eight  looms,  fired  three  shots. 
24^. — Water  nearer,  and  runs  south-west  as  far  as  we  can  see.  Queen^s  birthday, 
put  up  flags  and  drank  her  health  in  champagne.  2'th. — Burning  a  hatch,  firewood 
ail  used  uj).  Strong  gale  blowing  out  of  the  sound.  Snow-storms  all  the  week,  we  are 
more  snowed  up  than  we  have  ever  been.  28th. — Went  after  a  bear  but  ho  ran  away. 
Killed  137  looms,  fired  thirty-nine  shots.  2dth. — Breaking  up  casks  for  firewood. 
SOf/i. — Getting  out  whale-boat.  We  had  much  snow,  wind,  and  drift  in  the  latter 
part  of  May.  Killed  during  the  month  three  bears,  3G6  looms.  Temperature  of  the 
month :  mean,  +  28*85 ;  highest,  +  36  ;  lowest^  0. 

June  lat. — Water  about  five  miles  off,  running  cast  and  west,  and  at  least  10  miles 
braid.  Burning  all  the  wood  we  can  get  out  of  the  hut.  Z^rd. — Got  a  brent  goose. 
Only  about  two  weeks'  fresh  moat  left.  Afh. — Killed  100  looms,  fired  thirty-one  shots. 
oth. — Captain  Lofley  says  wo  could  launch  the  boats  across  the  ice  into  the  water  in 
three  days,  so  I  have  sent  some  men  away  to  find  a  road,  but  I  do  not  believe  it 
can  be  done.  Men  came  back  late  at  night,  but  did  not  get  to  the  water.  G<A.— 
Captain  Lofley  went  to  look  for  a  road,  but  found  the  ico  too  bad  for  dragging  the 
Itoats  over:  More  water  up  Gunther  Sound.  7th. — Valentine  went  to  find  a  way 
to  the  water,  but  did  not  get  to  it.  8th. — Our  fresh  meat  is  getting  very  short,  and 
if  we  do  not  soon  get  a  bear,  we  must  start  for  the  water  to  try  and  get  walrus. 
Killed  five  looms,  fired  four  shots.  9th. — Got  a  young  bear  after  a  long  chase. 
No.  34.  Ground  soft  and  muddy,  and  water  standing  in  small  puddles.  Valentine 
wenfr  up  the  hill  to  shoot  looms ;  he  came  down  and  said  that  the  ico  had  broken 
away  to  the  south-east,  and  that  he  could  get  to  the  water  in  an  hour ;  ho  started 
with  two  men,  and  was  away  five  hours,  but  did  not  get  to  the  water.  Walrus  seen 
on  the  edge  of  the  ico  to  the  south-west,  where  there  is  a  bight.  10//i. — Got  some 
-water  off  the  land  to-day.  Boats  nearly  ready.  11th. — Walked  to  the  glacier  and 
went  up  it.  There  are  many  large  pools  of  water  up  Gunther  Sound,  and  the  floe 
seems  to  be  decaying  fast.  12tli. — Went  with  Valentine  over  the  land-floe,  but 
found  it  too  hummocky  for  the  boats.  Every  man  now  has  a  loom  with  his  dinner. 
13/A.— It  has  been  blowing  a  whole  gale  outside.  Ice  broke  up  in  Gunther  Sound, 
and  a  crack  opened  out  about  half  a  mile  in  front  of  our  door,  and  then  widened 
until  it  was  at  least  a  mile  broad  right  away  to  the  outside.  Now  we  are  free.  We 
must  get  a  few  walrus.  I  hope  to  make  a  start  on  the  2l8t.  lith. — A  year  since 
we  left  Peterhead.  Sent  boat  over  to  Eira  Lodge  to  fetch  salt,  cooking  appa- 
ratus, &C.  15th. — Boat  went  away  after  seahorse,  got  one.  Boat  returned  from 
Eira  Lodge  with  salt,  sledge,  cooking  gear,  and  four  walrus.  16^/i.— Began  to  cook 
walrus  meat  and  looms  for  the  boats.  White  whales  seen  going  west.  17th. — ^Ice 
breaking  away  from  land-floe.  Cooking  and  tinning  walrus.  Snow  is  disappearing 
very  fast  round  the  hut.  18th. — Cooking  and  tinning  walrus  meat.  Found  the 
14  lbs.  lead,  it  will  make  slugs  for  200  cartridges.  We  have  to  bale  out  the  water  in 
the  hut  Hope  to  be  ready  to  start  on  Wednesday.  19th. — Blowing  hard  outside. 
Thick  water  sky  to  south-west^  20/A.— Men  went  up  hill  to  get  eggs,  but  the  rocks 
gave  way  under  their  feet,  and  they  only  got  two. 

No.  IV.— April  1888.]  Q 


218  SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EZRA  TO  FRANZ- JOSEF  LAND. 

IL  The  Boat  Journey  to  Novaya  Zemlya. 

On  Wednesday,  June  2l8t,  the  boats,  provisions,  and  stores  were  taken  down 
to  the  edge  of  the  fast  ice,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  but  After  having  tea  in 
the  hut  we  blocked  up  the  door,  and  with  a  cheer  went  down  to  the  boats  and 
commenced  to  load  them.  At  9.30  p.m.,  everything  being  ready,  the  boats  were 
launched  and  sailed  away  with  a  strong  north-west  wind ;  the  boats  were  deeply 
laden,  and  tliere  being  a  good  sea  on,  they  shipped  a  great  deal  of  water,  but  it 
was  easily  baled  out,  and  wc  were  delighted  at  the  rapid  progress  we  were  making 
south.  No  ice  was  seen  until  the  following  evening  at  6.30,  when  the  pack 
ice  was  sighted  in  lat.  78**  36',  being  80  miles  south  of  Cape  Flora.  After 
working  along  the  edge  of  the  pack  to  the  westward  for  some  distance  an 
opening  was  found,  and  the  boats  went  in  about  two  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
the  23rd.  There  was  then  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  south  which  opened  out 
the  ice  but  unfortunately  brought  a  suowstorm  with  it  which  filled  the 
boats  with  snow  and  made  us  rather  uncomfortable.  At  8  o'clock  p.m.  the 
wind  having  changed  to  the  north,  the  ice  began  to  close  up  again,  so  that  after 
going  a  few  miles  the  boats  had  to  be  hauled  up  on  a  floe  to  escape  being  nipped ; 
there  they  remained  until  the  end  of  the  month,  thick  fogs  and  tightly  packed 
ice  making  it  advisable  not  to  move,  but  meantime  the  north  winds  drove  the 
pack  and  also  the  boats  much  to  the  south. 

JtUy  Ist. — Bright  clear  morning.  Started  at  4  a.m.  Went  zigzagging  throng 
leads,  and  dragging  the  boats  over  pieces  of  ice,  and  occasionally  sailing  through 
pools  of  water  all  day.  Latitude  at  noon,  78°  2',  At  6  p.m.  the  boats  were 
caught  between  two  floes  about  four  feet  high  above  water,  and  nearly  crushed. 
At  7  P.M.  we  got  into  a  big  water.  At  11  p.m.  could  not  get  any  further,  so  hauled 
the  boats  on  a  floe.  Found  fresh  water  on  the  floe  for  the  first  time.  We  have 
had  to  melt  snow  in  our  kettles  since  we  started,  to  get  water  for  drinking  and 
cooking. 

2nd.— Beautiful  day,  but  the  ice  is  too  tight  to  let  us  get  on.  The  boats 
are  much  shaken  by  yesterday's  work,  and  leak  badly. 

3rd. — Beautiful  bright  morning.  Started  at  9  a.m.  After  some  hauling 
got  into  a  hole  of  water,  then  througb  leads  into  a  larger  water ;  after  that  went 
some  distance  through  very  hummocky  and  heavy  ice.  Stopped  for  dinner.  After 
dinner  went  along  the  side  of  a  large  floe  for  about  a  mile,  then  hauled  the  boats 
on  the  ice.    Got  a  seal. 

4th. — Another  bright  clear  day.  There  is  a  large  water  now  running  east  and 
west  of  us,  but*tlie  edge  is  quite  tight,  and  we  can  see  no  water  south  of  it. 

4th. — Latitude  at  noon  77°  57'.-  We  have  not  gained  much  by  all  our  labour, 
and  our  boats  are  getting  very  shaky.  After  tea  sailed  east  to  the  end  of  the  water. 
Saw  another  large  water  to  the  east,  but  could  not  get  to  it.  Hauled  the  boats  on 
a  floe  at  9  p.m. 

.  5th. — After  breakfast  started  for  the  water  east  of  us.  After  a  great  deal  of 
poking  through  cracks,  hauling  and  launching,  got  to  the  water  about  6.30  p.m., 
sailed  across  it,  hauled  boats  on  a  floe  at  7 '30  as  it  came  on  very  thick.  Fell  through 
the  floe  and  got  a  ducking. 

Gth. — Overcast  all  day.  After  dinner  started  and  went  through  some  bad  leads 
into  small  holes  and  then  into  some  better.  After  tea  got  into  a  long  water  but  it 
took  us  mostly  to  the  west. 

7th. — Started  after  breakfast.  After  some  difiSculty  got  into  good  leads  and  holes 
of  water,  went  south  and  west.  Stopped  at  10  a.m.  Latitude  at  noon  77°  33'.  Got 
into  a  large  water  and  again  made  to  the  south  and  west.   Stopped  again.    Went 


SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND.  219 

%  little  fnrther,  then  got  stopped  again ;  hauled  up  for  the  night;  Overcast  until  mid- 
day, then  bright  and  clear:    We  had  four  biscuits  each  to-day. 

8M. — Bright  clear  morning.  Started  at  four  o'clock  but  could  not  get  far.  Went 
a  little  way  after  breakfast,  lat.  77°  20'.  After  dinner  had  a  good  run  south  and 
south-east.  After  tea  went  about  half  a  mile  when  our  boat  got  nipped  and  stove 
a  plank ;  hauled  up  on  ice  to  repair. 

9<A. — Started  at  8  and  went  on  until  11  a.u.  but  did  not  do  much.  Light  snow 
in  the  morning.  Afternoon  bright  and  very  hot.  Went  a  short  distance  after  tea. 
At  10  p.x .  started  again  and  went  through  some  bad  ice. 

10th. — Came  to  a  large  water  which  opened  out  into  others  so  that  we  made 
about  twelve  miles  to  the  south  and  south-east  by  6  o'clock  a.!! .  Latitude  at  noon 
77^  ir.     Very  hot    Started  at  6  P.ic.,  went  on  until  11  p.m.,  but  did  not  do  much. 

llih. — ^Homing  overcast.  Ice  close.  Started  in  the  evening,  but  did  not  get 
far  before  our  boat  got  nipped,  and  had  to  be  hauled  on  the  ice. 

\2th. — Started  at  9  A.H.  Nearly  got  nipped  again,  but  hauled  the  boat  over  the 
ice  to  where  the  others  were.  Lat.  77**  9',  long.  47**  5'.  Two  men  went  up  a  berg 
to  look  for  the  open  water.  Saw  a  bear,  but  he  would  not  come  near  us.  In  the 
evening  went  through  some  leads  and  got  into  a  large  water  going  W.S.W.,  which 
opened  into  a  water  going  south,  and  then  into  others. 

IZth. — ^Went  on  until  2  Ajf.  Ice  open,  and  went  on  again  at  8 ;  at  9  came  to 
a  stop^  and  hauled  boats  on  a  floe.  Lat.  76°  55'.  Started  again  at  4  p.ii.  Sailed 
south  a  little  way,  then  west,  then  rowed  to  the  east,  and  after  a  good  deal  of 
launching  sailed  south-east  for  some  distance. 

lAtK — Launched  the  boats  across  several  necks,  and  then  sailed  south-west; 
stopped  at  4  aji.  After  dinner  launched  the  boats  into  a  good  lead,  and  went  south 
about  two  miles.  Gould  see  a  dark  water  sky  south-west.  Boats  nearly  nipped. 
Heavy  rain.    Blowing  a  gale. 

lath. — Strong  wind,  thick  weather,  and  much  rain,  so  that  w;e  could  do  nothing 
bat  wait.  After  dinner  went  on  for  about  two  hours,  then  stopped,  as  it  was  too 
thick  to  see  the  leads.    Bained  hard. 

16^. — ^After  dinner  went  a  short  way.  The  floes  are  very  slushy  and  rotten, 
and  there  are  plenty  of  pools  of  fresh  water.  After  tea  went  on  until  8  p.m.  Started 
again  at  10,  when  the  ice  opened. 

17//i. — ^Went  on  through  good  leads  and  large  waters,  only  having  occasionally 
to  pc^c  through  narrow  cracks  and  haul  over  necks  until  8  o'clock.  Much  brash  ice 
about  now.  Started  again  at  6  p.m.  Sailed  through  some  lai^e  ice-holes,  and  got 
through  some  cracks,  and  hauled  over  some  necks.    Stopped  at  11.30  p.m. 

18M. — Ice  tight  all  the  morning.  Blowing  hard  and  thick.  Ice  slacked  off,  and 
we  started  at  3.30  p.m.  Went  through  some  good  large  waters  south  and  east.  Saw 
narwals  and  white  whales.    Got  a  bearj    Camped  at  10  p.m. 

l^th. — Started  at  10  a.m.,  and  went  down  a  long  lane,  with  a  few  stoppages. 
Stopped  for  dinner.  Lat  76°  38',  long.  46°  48'.  Went  on  Uirough  some  good  leads 
and  large  waters  imtil  8  P.M. ;  could  see  a  large  water  south.  Got  a  seal.  Got  a 
bear. 

20<A. — ^Thick.  Strong  wind  and  very  heavy  rain  all  the  morning.  Started  after 
tea,  but  it  was  too  thick  to  see  our  way,  so  at  8  p.m.  we  hauled  boats  on  a  floe  and 
camped. 

21s<. — Thick.  Started  after  breakfast,  but  after  nearly  getting  nipped  three  or 
four  times,  hauled  the  boats  on  the  ice,  as  we  could  get  no  further.  Heavy  rain. 
Went  on  from  10  p.m.  to  11  p.m.,  but  the  ice  was  flying  about  too  much  and  the 
wind  too  strong. 

22ind. — Strong  wind  and  snow.    Started  at  10  p.m.    Sulod  through  lai^e  traters 

Q  2 


220  SECOND  VOYAGK  OF  THE  EISA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

south-west  and  south,  quite  rough  water,  shipped  seas,  got  wet,  bitterly  cold,  stopped 
at  12. 

2Zrd. — Overcast,  but  all  the  holes  of  water  were  reflected  in  the  sky.  Started  at 
8  A.M.,  and  after  going  west  for  a  few  miles  got  into  leads  and  pools  leading  south 
and  south-east.  Lat.  76°  10*,  long.  46*^  45'.  Went  on  all  day  sailing  and  rowing ;  in 
the  evening  went  too  much  to  the  cast  in  trying  to  keep  from  getting  outside,  and 
got  jammed. 

2A.th. — ^Hauled  the  boats  on  the  ice  at  1  a.m.  Started  at  8  a.m.  and  went  west  at 
first,  then  south,  and  got  into  sailing  ice,  and  then  had  no  difficulty  in  going  south 
and  east.  Foggy  at  times,  but  sim  shining  and  a  fair  wind,  and  we  sailed  along 
delightfully.    Lat.  75°  41'. 

24^t. — In  the  afternoon  the  ice  got  more  open,  and  we  could  feel  and  see  the 
swell  of  the  sea.    Sailed  south-east  true  all  night.    Foggy. 

2btK — Sailed  south-east  true  all  the  morning  until  9  o'clock,  then  E.S.E.  true, 
got  into  open  water.  Kain.  Came  into  the  ice  again  at  noon.  Wind  fell  at 
4  P.M.,  began  to  row  to  the  east,  went  on  all  night,  but  it  came  on  very  thick. 

26<A. — Had  to  come  out  again  as  we  could  not  get  into  the  land.  Worked  about 
trying  to  get  out  of  the  ice  to  go  south,  but  could  not  find  a  lead.  Lat.  75°  C.  Fine 
and  clear.  Still  working  out  but  doing  little  good.  Foggy.  Made  fast  to  a  piece 
of  ice  about  4  p.m. 

27^. — Started  at  7  a.m.  Fine  morning.  Sailed  south  for  some  time,  then  had 
to  tack  to  clear  tho  ice,  but  the  whale-boats  went  so  much  to  leeward,  that  we  had 
to  pull  to  windward.  Pulling  all  the  afternoon  to  the  west ;  at  last  cleared  the  close 
ico  and  sailed  south.    Sailing  all  night.    Foggy. 

28^A.— SaiUug  all  the  morning  to  the  south  through  open  ice  for  the  most  part, 
came  to  where  there  was  a  long  heavy  swell  coming  in  from  the  S.S.  W.  C!ould  have 
got  out  into  open  water,  but  thought  it  best  to  keep  inside  and  work  to  the  south  and 
east  along  the  edge.  Working  through  very  open  ice  all  the  evening  to  the  south, 
and  then  to  tho  east,  but  at  last  went  too  much  into  the  pack. 

2^(h. — After  trying  to  work  out  to  the  edge,  the  ice  closing  in,  hauled  boats  on 
a  floe  at  3  a.m.  Foggy.  Started  at  2  p.m.  Worked  eastward  and  southward  all 
the  afternoon,  mostly  through  very  open  sailing  ice. 

30^A. — Fog  came  on  at  1  A.M.,  so  hauled  boats  on  a  floe  and  turned  in.  Started 
at  1.30  p.m.,  and  sailed  a  short  distance  east  and  south,  but  soon  came  to  a  stop,  as 
the  south-west  wind  packed  the  ice  close.  Ice  heaving  and  grinding  about  all  night. 
Long  swell  coming  in. 

31«<. — Ice  still  packed  close,  and  grinding  together  from  the  swell,  so  that  we 
cannot  get  away.  The  floe  on  which  we  hauled  up  has  been  broken  to  pieces,  and 
tho  bit  on  which  our  boats  are  is  not  more  than  50  feet  by  100  feet.  Lat.  about 
73°  40'.  Started  at  10  a.m.,  and  sailed  west*  and  south  until  8  p.m.,  then  brailed  up 
and  rowed  about  S.S.W.  true  all  night  through  oj)en  sailing  ice. 

Auyust  Ist. — llowed  on  until  3.30  a.m.,  then  hauled  up  on  a  bit  of  ice,  which 
broke  in  two,  so  that  the  boats  drifted  apart  while  we  were  asleep.  Started  at 
9.30  A.M.,  and  rowed  south  until  4  p.m.  through  very  open  drift  ice.  Had  tea  at  5, 
then  started  to  row  south-east,  and  at  8  came  to  the  edge  of  the  pack,  and  got 
through  into  the  open  water  at  last,  then  after  clearing  a  point-end  rowed  east  for  the 
rest  of  the  night. 

2nd. — Uowed  on  until  about  3  a.m.,  then  set  sail.  At  8  a.m.  heavy  thunderstorm 
and  rain.  At  noon  strong  wind  and  high  sea,  Ijoats  taking  in  much  water.  Sighted 
land  about  3  p.m.    Landed  8  p.m. 

3rd.— 10  a.m.  "A  sail!  A  sail!"— the  Willem  Barents, 


SECX)N-D  VOYAGE  OF  THE  E/RA  TO  FRAXZ-JOSEF  LAND— DISCUSSION.     221 

Previous  to  the  reading  of  the  foregoing — 

The  Fresidext  said  he  was  sorry  to  have  to  announce  that  he  had  received 
a  letter  from  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  stating  that  he  was  sufifering  from  a  cold,  and 
^vas  quite  incapable  of  reading  the  paper.  In  the  absence  of  that  gentleman, 
he  yraa  glad  to  say  that  Dr.  Neale,  one  of  his  companions,  both  in  the  voyage 
of  1880  and  that  of  1881,  had  kindly  undertaken  to  read  it.  Dr.  Neale  bad 
cliargc  of  the  health  of  the  expedition,  and  the  best  guarantee  of  his  fitness 
for  that  duty  was  that  he  brought  home  the  whole  of  the  crew  safe  and  sound, 
vrlth  the  exception  of  one  sailor,  who  went  out  afflicted  with  a  cancer,  which  he 
knew  rauat  sooner  or  later  prove  fatal.  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  was  well  known,  to 
them,  though  not  personally,  because  they  bad  never  had  the  good  fortune  to 
bring  him  face  to  face  with,  the  Meeting.  He  had  received  the  gold  medal  of  the 
Society,  and  was  so  well  known  by  reputation,  tliat  it  was  unnecessary  for 
him  (the  President)  to  say  much  in  introducing  his  paper  to  them.  They  all  knew 
that  his  latest  expedition,  which  had  excited  so  much  interest,  was  very  far  from 
being  the  first  in  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  adventurous  life.  As  early  as  1872,  he  went 
to  Spitsbergen,  and  considerably  extended  our  knowledge  of  that  country — rectifying 
many  errors  which  up  to  that  time  had  prevailed  respecting  it.  Subsequently  he 
made  two  other  voyages.  One  of  them  was  not  fertile  in  results ;  but  in  the  other 
he  accomplished  the  satisfactory  feat  of  rescuing  a  large  number  of  Swedes  who, 
but  for  his  assistance,  would  have  been  starved  to  death.  As  most  of  them  were 
aware,  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  was  the  first  person,  in  his  own  yacht  fitted  out  at  his  own 
expense,  to  reach  Franz-Josef  Land  in  a  ship.  The  land  had  been  discovered  and 
reached  by  the  Austrian  Expedition  when  their  ship  was  shut  up  in  the  ice  10 
miles  away,  but  they  wore  unable  to  prosecute  a  voyage  of  discovery  along  the 
coast.  The  investigation  of  the  character  of  the  west  coast  was  a  matter  of 
importance,  it  being  an  accepted  axiom  among  Arctic  travellers  that  the  best 
chance  of  approaching  the  North  Pole  was  by  following  the  western  coast  of  the 
land.  Mr.  Smith,  knowing  that,  considerably  extended  the  knowledge  of  Franz- 
Josef  Land,  returning  the  same  year,  after  exploring  about  150  miles  of  new  coast. 
What  he  accomplished  last  year  would  be  detailed  in  the  paper  to  bo  read. 
After  the  paper — 

Sir  Allen  Youxo  said  that  all  Arctic  authorities  would  agree  as  to  the  good 
results  which  had  accrued  from  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  late  expedition.  It  proved  how 
much  a  party  of  resolute  men  could  effect,  even  when  their  ship  liad  suddenly  simk 
under,  their  feet,  and  at  the  worst  season  of  the  year,  when  the  young  or  new  ice  was 
forming  and  the  old  ice  not  sufficiently  compact  to  attempt  a  sledge  retreat,  even 
if  the  party  had  been  provided  with  a  travelling  equipment.  It  was  immensely  to 
the  credit  of  the  expedition  that  they  at  once  set  to  work  to  land  such  provisions 
as  they  could  save,  and  attempt  to  provide  for  the  winter,  which  they  passed  through 
without  any  real  sickness,  although  they  had  to  depend  chiefly  on  their  rifles  for 
such  provisions  as  they  could  obtain,  beyond  the  small  quantity  of  flour,  rum,  and 
tea  which  they  had  saved,  and  notwithstanding  that  they  had  no  lime-juice.  They 
had  also  shown  how  a  retreat  could  be  made.  He  looked  upon  that  retreat  as  one  of 
the  most  extraordinary  that  had  ever  been  accomplished,  and  especially  after  seeing 
xhe  boats  on  their  arrival  in  Novaya  Zemlya.  Their  sails  were  made  of  the  table-cloths, 
and  their  comjiasses  and  instruments  were  fitted  up  in  the  most  extraordinary  way ; 
they  had  nothing  left  by  way  of  provisions  excepting  some  walrus  meat  done  up  in 
tins,  and  had  no  clothing  excepting  ragged  remnants  of  the  summer  clothes  in  which 
they  hail  left  England.  The  great  point  which  Arctic  navigators  would  be  most 
interested  in  was  the  everlasting  question  of  the  routes  to  the  pole.  He  was  not  one 
of  those  who  believed  that  Englishmen  were  g<nng  to  give  up  their  attempts  to  reach 


222     SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND.— DISCISSION. 


high  latitudes  and  let  foreigners  do  it  instead.  It  was  clear  that  they  bad  come  very 
nearly  to  the  eu<i  of  their  t^thor,  so  far  ft«  navigation  by  ships  was  concerned,  and 
they  must  now  trust  for  future  explorations  to  sledge  journeys ;  liut  for  that  they 
must  iiave  smot>tli  ice ;  heavy  loads  could  not  be  dmg2;e<l  over  oceanic  ice.  Franz- 
Josef  Laud  now  api>eared  to  be  the  ouiy  land,  extending  far  to  the  north,  by  which 
such  journeya  could  be  made.  !So  long  as  the  land  ran  north  aud  souths  the  6le<ige 
journey  could  be  continued,  close  to  the  coast»  in  the  bays,  and  inside  the  lines  of 
hummocks  formed  by  the  rise  and  fail  of  tide,  but  the  moment  they  had  to  atrik©  off 
over  the  ocean  they  came  to  a  heavy  pyramidal  pack  of  ice,  with  soft  snow  in  the 
interstices,  over  which  it  was  im]x>ssible  to  jTass.  Franz-Josef  Land  appeared  to  offer 
ali  the  conditions  required  for  alodge  journeys.  The  i»aper  hiui  descritnid  the  wonderful 
fiords  and  inland  channels,  aa  smooth  as  a  bowling  nlley,  and  corroborated  what 
Captain  I'ayer  had  said,  '*  that  travelling  would  bo  verj'  easy  there."  Cajitaiu  Payer, 
from  tlie  most  northern  jKiint  hii  reached,  saw  the  land  atill  away  to  the  northward, 
and  that  l>eing  the  case,  great  ho|je9  were  held  out  that  by  this  route  a  still  higher 
latitude  might  yet  be  reached.  At  the  same  time  Mr.  Leigh  8mith  had  shown  that 
there  was  every  hope  that  a  gooti  ship  might  reach  Franz-Josef  Land  in  an  ordinar}* 
Muinmer,  and  that  even  if  the  ship  were  lost  the  crew  might  sustain  themselves, 
and  escaiie  by  their  lionts.  He  trusted  that  Arctic  explorations  would  still  be 
continued. 

With  reference  to  the  Hope  expedition,  he  attributed  ita  happy  termination  to 
Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  own  resolution,  determination,  coumge,  and  foresight  in  carrying  out 
what  all  Arctic  explorers  thought  he  would  do,  namely  a  retreat  on  Novaya  Zemlya. 
He  (Sir  AUen  Young)  felt  certain  that  Mr.  Smith  would,  if  possible,  do  so.  It 
almost  seemed  as  if  it  had  ixjen  arranged  that  they  should  meet  there.  Of  course  he 
did  not  kcow,  at  the  time,  where  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  waa,  or  whether  he  woe  alive  or 
dead.  It  was,  however,  most  fortunate  that  he  was  picked  up  at  that  time  and  place» 
because  the  Ilojye  was  going  to  leaTe  for  the  north  the  very  next  day,  aud  if  they 
had  not  met  at  that  time,  the  Ilvpe  expedition  might  now  be  up  in  P'ranz-Joaef 
Land,  and  her  ship's  company  living  on  walrus  and  bear,  while  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  waa 
quietly  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  He  (Sir  Allen 
Young)  was  actually  writing  a  letter,  and  preparing  provisiona  to  place  in  a  cairn, 
when  suddenly  Mr.  Leigh  8mith  ap^ieared  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay.  He  could 
nut  lose  this  opportunity  of  expressing  his  great  thanks  to  the  promoters  of  the  relief 
expedition  for  the  hanilsomo  and  liberal  way  in  which  resources  were  placed  at  his 
disposal.  He  had  everything  that  he  coidd  possibly  want.  The  consequence  was 
that  he  was  amply  equipped  and  could  have  held  out  for  three  years  if  necessary. 
They  were  very  much  iodebted  to  the  distinguished  foreign  officers  who  gave  them 
very  valuable  advice  luefore  they  left :  he  alluded  to  Baron  Nordenskiold,  Commodore 
Jansen,  and  Captain  Payer,  all  of  whom  had  written  letters  containing  most  valuable 
suggestions,  but  all  pointing  to  the  same  reasoning,  namely,  that  if  Mr.  Leigh  Smith 
waa  alive  and  had  his  boata,  he  woidd  probably  try  to  reach  the  west  coast  of  Novaya 
Zemlya.  One  supposition  was  that  he  might  have  gone  to  Spitzbergen,  but  it  was 
not  insisted  upon.  He  also  expressed  his  thanka  to  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the 
Atlmiralty,  for  allowing  very  experieuced  naval  officers  to  accompany  him,  namely, 
Lieutenant  Swire,  R.K.,  Lieutenant  Casement,  R.N.,  Lieutenant  Baimsfalher.  n.x., 
and  Dr.  John  Price.  Those  officers  rendered  him  great  assistance,  especially  on  one 
occasion,  when  the  Hope  struck  on  a  reef  in  the  open  ocean.  There  was  no  broken 
water  to  indicate  ita  presence.  They  were  obliged  to  keep  as  near  the  coast  a* 
possible  in  order  not  to  miss  any  boats  or  indications  of  any  i)arties  on  shore,  and 
in  doing  so  they  ran  right  on  the  reef  when  going  eight  knots  an  hour,  and  it  was 
twenty-four  hoiu"s  before  they  could  extricate  the  ship.   He  also  had  to  acknowledge 


4 


I 
4 


ID  VOYAGE  OF  THE  £IJiA  TO  FItANZ-JOSEF  LAND.— DISCUSSION.     223 


th»  noUe  condiict  of  Captain  HoffmaD,  of  the  WtUem  Barents^  which  has  gone  every 
•ammer  into  the  Barents  Sca  sounding  and  taking  ol>servations  for  the  last  three 
jrean.  After  escaping  from  the  reef  the  Jlope  was  taken  back  iutoMatotslikin  Straits 
to  rep»lr  aome  serious  damages  before  tiiiallyMiilirtgDortliwardfor  Franz- Joj^sf  Land, 
•od  there  the  WSlem  BarenU  waa  met.  Captain  Uofiiuan  placed  his  carpenters  at 
hi»  (Sir  Allen  Young's)  disposal  to  assist  in  the  repairs,  and  was  in  comiwny  \Nith 
the  Hope  when  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  his  jmrty  were  rescuttl  and  the  mission  of  tho 
relief  expedition  so  happily  ended. 

Mr.  A.  Craig  Skllab,  m.p.,  wished  on  behalf  of  Mr.  Ltigh  Smith's  friends  and 
tives,  and  as  a  coonectioD  by  marriage,  to  exjiress  their  tbanks  to  the  President 
M)d  Coancil  of  the  Koyal  Geographical  Society,  and  to  the  many  other  gentlemen  who 
exerted  themselves  to  such  giKxl  puqose  last  year  in  titling  out  the  Eira  Search 
and  Relief  Expedition.     In  the  paper  which  Dr.  Nenle  had  just  read,  they  were  told 
how  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  the  crew  of  the  Eini  spent  the  long  winter  and  sprmg 
from  October  1881  to  July  1882  in  their  hut  on  Cape  Flora.    It  might  Imj  interesting 
to  reUte  how  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  friends  spent  the  same  period  living  here  at  ease  in 
England.     At  the  end  of  1881  when  there  were  no  tidings  of  the  Eira  they  were 
naturally  very  anxious  and  alanned,  knowing  that  he  had  only  fourteen  months' 
pTDvisioos  with  him,  and  had   expressed  his  lixed  intention  to  return  home  in 
Cictuber  unless  prevented  by  unforeseen  circumstances.    A  provisional  committee  was 
appointed  consisting  of  Sir  Allen  Young,  Mr.  Clements  Markham,  Sir  Henry  Gore 
h,  and  Mr.  T.  V.  Smith,  to  consider  whether  they  ojuld  interest  the  Eoyal 
aphical  Society,  and  if  possible  the  Government,  in  the  fate  of  Mr.  Leigh 
Smith  and  the  crew  of  the  Eira,    The  Committee  first  applied  to  Lord  Aberdarc,  as 
Freaidcnt  of  this  great  body,  to  enlist  his  sympathy  and  the  iotluence  of  the  Society 
in  their  object.     Both  by  the  President  and  by  the  Council  of  the  Society  they  wore 
«oc»rded  an  attentive  hearing,  and  on  a  statement  of  their  case  they  received  many 
TsluAble  suggestions,  and  also  tbo  offer  of  a  largo  grant  of  money  in  aid  of  a  relief 
ex]:>edition.      But  the  President's  services  did  not  end  there.     He  went  with  an 
tudueutial  deputation  to  Lonl  Northbrook  and  the  Lonls  of  the  Admiralty,  and  by 
the  strong  expression  of  his  opinion,  backed  by  that  of  the  Society,  persuaded  the 
Admiralty  that  there  was  an  urgent  case  for  the   Government  to  intervene  and 
render  assistance,   and  a  considerable  grant  of  money  was  offered.    The  debt  of 
gratitude  which  Mr.  Leigh  Smiths  friends  felt  to  tlie  President  was  more  than  he 
coold  express,  because  from  that  time  the  anxiety  which  they  8ufrere<l  was  to  a  very 
Uige  extent  relieved.     Prep.irationa  were  then  made  for  the  relief  ex[)edition,  and  in 
aTeiy  short  time  tl»e  provisional  committee  developed  under  the  reassuring  promise 
<»f  the  Geographical  Society  and  the  Admiralty  into  the  '•  AVm  Search  and  Relief 
0:»mmittec,'*  consisting  of  Sir  Uenry  Goro  Bouth,  Mr.  Grant,  Mr.  Clements  Mark- 
ham,  Sir  George  Karcs,  Mr.  T.  V.   Smith,  and  Sir  Allen  Young.     The    thanks 
of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  friends  were  especially  due  tu  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  for 
tho  confidence  they  reposed  in  that  Committee.    The  grant  was  given  without  any 
tivnmels  or  restrictions  except  two.     One  was  that  an  equivalent  sum  should  l>e 
subecribed  by  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  friends ;  and  the  other  was  that  the  instructions  to 
be  givea  to  tho  commander  of  the  expetlition  should  he  laid  before  two  experienced 
ufficen  appointed  by  the  Admiralty.    The  tii-st  reijirirement  was  at  once  discharge*! 
by  the  munificent  liberality  of  a  friend  nf  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  who  doea  not  wish  to 
hATe  liis  name  publicly  uientioned ;  and  the  second  condition  was  fulfilled  by  tlie 
sttbrnission  of  iustruu Lions  prepared  by  this  Committee  tu  Admiral  Sir  G.  HichnTds 
and  Captain  Beaumont,  who  liad  be<?n  named  by  the  Admindty,  to  whom  he  wished 
to  exprees  the  gratitude  of  the  C<iiimiittee  for  the  great  assistance  they  afibrde*!,  the 
^H     unggeBtions  they  made,  and  the  kindly  interest  they  took  in  the  expedition.     It  was 


I 


224     SKCOND  VOYAGE  OF  THK  EtRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND— DISCUSSION. 

then  that  Sir  Allen  Young  offered  liis  services  to  the  Committee  as  commander  of 
the  expedition,  and  it  was  no  light  matter  for  a  roan  full  of  business  occupations  and 
engagement^;,  with  no  personal  ambition  to  gratify,  and  no  promotion  to  secure,  to 
imdertahe  such  a  charge,  knowing  well  what  a  grave  responsible  task  it  was.  It 
was  not  as  if  Sir  Allen  Young  was  inexperienced,  and  did  not  know  the  risks  he  was 
running,  for  he  had  bejn  on  several  expeditions  to  the  north  before.  From  the 
moment  he  entered  upon  the  task  everything  went  on  apace.  A  good  vessel,  the 
ITope,  was  obtained,  a  suitable  creAv,  and  an  admirable  staff  of  officers  volunteered 
for  the  service.  As  the  representative  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  friends  and  relatives  he 
wished  most  cordially  to  express  his  thanks  to  all  the  gentlemen  who  aided  and 
assisted,  and  he  would  ask  the  President  to  add  one  other  kindness,  and  convey  the 
expression  of  their  gratitude  for  the  generous  way  in  which  they  acted  and  the  con- 
fidence they  reposed  in  the  Eira  Committee,  to  the  Council  of  the  Society,  to  Lord 
Northbrook,  and  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty. 

Admiral  Sir  Leopold  M'Clintock  said  that  apart  from  the  lively  satisfaction 
which  must  be  felt  at  the  safe  return  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  party  and  those  who  to 
gallantly  went  out  to  the  rescue,  every  one  interested  in  geographical  exploration 
would  be  gratified  at  noticing  two  points.  Looking  back  for  a  number  of  years  it 
would  be  seen  that  the  search  for  a  missing  expedition  was  continued  over  a  period 
of  twelve  years ;  whereas  it  was  found  in  1882  that  hardly  was  an  expedition  mismng 
when  at  the  proper  season  of  the  year  out  went  a  relief  expedition  and  proved 
successful.  The  accumulated  experience  of  many  years  tended  greatly  to  lessen  the 
risks  of  Arctic  explorations,  but  they  still  were  something  tremendous,  though  the 
exploring  party  could  now  do  a  great  deal  to  effect  their  own  relief,  and  the  rescuing 
party  could  do  a  great  deal  to  anticipate  their  movements.  The  happy  result  of 
the  Eira  Relief  Expedition  was  greatly  owing  to  the  Arctic  experience  and  sound 
judgment  of  Sir  Allen  Young  who  had  brought  it  to  so  prompt  a  conclusion. 

Captain  Sir  George  Nares  said  they  had  listened  to  the  history  of  a  most 
instructive  voynge  told  in  a  very  modest  way,  and  he  was  sure  that  there  was  plenty 
of  room  to  read  between  the  lines.    The  only  voyi^e  that  he  knew  of  that  was  at 
all  similar  was  Barents'  historical  voyage  round  the  north-west  coast  of  Novaya 
Zemlya.    In  the  same  way  Barents  left  his  ship  behind  him ;  in  winter  his  ctesr 
had  it  exist  on  the  animals  that  they  could  shoot,  and  they  retreated  in  their  boats, 
but  with  the  melancholy  difference  that  Barents  was  left  buried  on  the  retnm 
journey.    With  that  exception  the  voyages  were  precisely  similar.    The  story  that 
they  bad  listened  to  said  very  much  for  the  character  of  the  leader  of  the  expedition. 
The  tact  and  ability  that  he  must  have  shown  all  through  in  keeping  hope  alive 
amongst  men  abandoned  on  a  desolate  shore,  without  provisions,  and  in  maintaining 
discipline  during  the  winter,  stamped  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  character  in  a  very  prominent 
way.    The  captain  of  a  man-of-war  was  very  differently  situated  from  the  captain 
of  a  merchant  ship,  or  any  one  in  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  position.    Immediately  a  mer- 
chant ship,  or  a  whaler,  or  such  a  vessel  as  the  j&Vra,  was  wrecked  or  simk,  "  Jack  was 
as  good  as  his  master."    That  was  the  English  law.    Whoever  became  the  leader  of 
the  party  when  such  a  thing  occurred  must  have  stamped  his  character  amongst  his 
followers  before  the  occurrence  took  place ;  and  the  story  they  had  listened  to  showed 
that  in  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  case  the  trust  was  worthily  placed.    In  the  few  lectures 
which  he  (Sir  George  Nares)  had  given  about  Arctic  service,  he  had  always  held  out 
that  it  was  not  so  bad  in  the  reality  as  in  the  contemplation.     That  was  all  very 
well  with  a  comfortable  ship  as  a  home,  but  it  was  impossible  for  him  adequately 
to  express  what  these  poor  fellows  had  gone  through.     Let  any  one  imagine  himself 
for  a  long  winter  in  a  hut  constructed  of  stones  and  turf  and  driftwood.    They  had 
heard  a  great  deal  about  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  party  being  able  to  get  animal  provisions, 


SECX)ND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  EIRA  TO  FRANZ-JOSEF  L.\ND.— DISCUSSION.     226 

bat  they  had  not  heard  how  those  provisions  were  cooked,  or  how  light  was  obtained, 
or  how  they  warmed  themselves,  or  anything  of  that  kind  all  through  the  foiu:  long 
months  that  they  were  in  darkness.  There  was  no  light  in  the  hut  except  enough 
to  make  darkness  visible,  and  nothing  had  been  said  about  a  single  book  being  read : 
the  privations  of  educated  men  under  such  circumstances  must  have  been  of  a  very 
extreme  character.  . 

He  did  not  want  to  say  anything  to  check  Arctic  enterprise,  but  at  the  same 
time  it  was  his  duty  to  point  out  the  great  hazard  that  was  run  when  vessels  went 
forth  without  preparing  a  base  and  a  line  of  retreat.    The  story  of  the  Eira  and  the 
Jeannette  would  show  what  risk  was  run  when  such  precautions  were  not  taken  in 
Arctic  voy^es.    There  was  no  doubt  that  if  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  ship  had  not  been 
wrecked  in  the  very  position  in  which  she  went  down,  a  very  different  tale  would 
have  been  told.    A  remark  had  been  made  in  the  paper  about  the  difficulty  of 
pulling  the  boats  over  the  ice.    Throughout  the  journey  the  boats  had  only  to  be 
pulled  over  a  few  feet  of  ice  at  a  time,  but  had  the  explorers  been  100  miles  east  or 
west  of  Eira  Harbour  it  was  impossible  to  say  where  they  would  have  been  now. 
The  extreme  importance  of  Eira  Harbour  as  a  base  for  future  journeys  northward  had 
been  proved.    It  was  an  admirable  position,  with  plenty  of  animal  life,  and  open 
water,  and  no  doubt  some  good  use  would  be  made  of  it  at  no  very  distant  time. 
The  open  water  was  remarkable,  but  the  experience  of  the  Ttgetthoff  foretold  it. 
There  was  now  no  doubt  that  at  Eira  Harbour  open  water  existed  earlier  in  the 
season  than  iu  the  shut-up  seas  that  had  usually  been  navigated  north  of  America. 
The  information  given  in  tlie  paper  with  regard  to  animal  life  was  most  important. 
If  there  were  plenty  of  bears  and  walrus,  then  open  water  must  be  there  always. 
Another  proof  of  this  was  the  early  coming  of  the  looms.    Everybody  was  astonished 
when  Lieutenant  Payer  stated  that  in  his  journey  up  Austria  Sound  he  found  a 
loomeiy  about  six  weeks  before  any  other  part  of  the  Arctic  r^ons  was  visited  by 
those  birds.     But  now  that  open  water  was  met  with  on  the  southern  shores  of 
Franz-Josef  Land  nearly  all  the  winter,  the  reason  was  clear.    He  must  confess 
that  in  the  advice  he  gave  to  the  Committee  he  did  not  expect  open  water  south  of 
Franz-Josef  Land  in  June.     In  shut-up  seas  north  of  America  there  was  no  such 
thing  as  open  water  before  July,  and  it  was  an  entirely  new  experience  to  be  able  to 
start  on  a  boat  journey  early  in  June.    The  Obi,  Tenesei,  and  the  Mackenzie  never 
broke  up  until  the  Ist  of  July.    The  reason  why  the  ice  broke  up  earlier  near 
Franz-Josef  Land  mnst  be  that  it  w«8  blown  away,  or  that  the  current  carried  it 
away.     Had  the  retreating  party  not  started  so  early  in  the  season,  before  the 
northern  ice  had  broken  up  and  drifted  south,  they  would,  he  thought,  have  expe- 
rienced far  greater  difficulties  with  the  boats.    The  announcement  in  the  paper 
about  the  male  bears  was  rather  interesting:  Lieutenant  Payer  made  the  same 
remark — that  the  female  bears  were  absent  all  through  the  winter.     One  very 
important  question  that  remained  for  them  to  solve  was,  where  the  icebergs  went.    It 
^vas  only  drift  ice  that  came  down  south  of  Spitzbergen,  and  he  supposed  tliat  the 
icebergs  went  up  between  Spitzbergen  and  Franz-Josef  Land.    The  one  point  in  the 
]japer  with  which  he  found  fault  was  the  Arctic  canon  which  was  laid  down.     The 
Arctic  was  changing  so  completely  in  different  districts,  that  fixed  rules  could  not  be 
laid  down.    It  was  said  that  the  west  coast  would  always  be  the  best  to  start  upon, 
but  he  did  not  believe  that  was  so,  for  he  thought  that  Alexandra  Land  up  to  Capo 
Lofley  would  be  jammed  up  by  ice.   During  the  whole  of  his  work  up  to  the  north  of 
Smith  Sound  he  stuck  to  the  west  shore  of  the  sea  and  the  east  coast  of  the  land ; 
they  mnst  therefore  be  careful  about  laying  down  Arctic  canons.    It  appeared  that 
the  explorers  found  a  raised  beach  90  feet  high,  and  if  they  supposed  the  Umd  there 
sunk  90  feet  the  whole  of  the  Arctic  regions  in  that  part  would  be  totally  changed. 


226     SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  THE  J^IP^A  TO  KRASZ-JOSEF  LAND.— DISCUSSION, 

For  instance,  if  they  could  remove  the  whole  of  Spitzbergen  it  would  be  very  mocli 
easier  to  get  to  Fran/.- Josef  Laud  or  beyond.  What  was  wanting  was  a  rcmte  by  which 
Ihe  ice  from  the  Polar  ocean  could  get  awny»  and  such  a  state  of  thiiiga  did  exist  not 
very  many  geological  years  ago.  At  tlie  north  of  Smith  Sound  he  found  traces  of 
ancient  beds  1000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  present  sea.  If  the  land  in  the  Arctic  seas 
wua  lowered  to  that  cxtept  very  nearly  the  whole  of  Spitzbergen  would  be  sunk  aa  well 
aa  the  whole  of  the  north  of  Asia  aud  a  great  part  of  Norway.  He  wished  to 
express  admiration  as  to  the  nobleness  of  Sir  Allen  Young,  who  came  forward  when 
his  friends  were  in  diflicullics,  gave  np  the  whole  of  his  engagements,  and  went 
uut  to  rescue  thera.  Thtre  was  no  donht  that  Sir  Allen's  instructions  allowed  for  his 
nuceting  his  friend  on  the  journey  home,  but  at  the  same  time  he  was  prej>ared  to  go 
wherever  necessity  calkd  him.  Sir  Allen  Young  had  told  them  that  the  J/oite  got 
severely  handled,  but  he  had  not  said  that  not  only  the  rudder  was  knocked  away, 
but  the  rudder  post,  and  that  they  chained  the  post  np  again,  made  a  temiwrary 
rudder,  and  were  ready  to  start  to  the  north  in  that  condition. 

He  wuuld  remind  them  of  an  expedition  that  was  now  wintering  in  the  northern 
seas.  They  had  hcaird  about  the  happy  way  in  which  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  had  got 
south,  but  there  was  a  failure  last  year  al>out  which  very  little  had  been  hoard. 
A  United  States  exj)©dition  under  Lieutenant  Grcvly  with  twenty-five  men  had 
been  left  in  Discovery  Bay,  Smith  Sound,  in  the  summer  of  1881.  A  vessel  tried 
to  reach  them  last  summer  aud  bring  them  home,  but  she  failed.  He  only  hoped 
that  their  friends  would  bo  more  fortunate  next  year;  and  that  their  rescue  would 
Ij©  effected  with  aa  favourable  results  aa  had  happily  attended  that  of  Mr,  Leigh 
Smith. 

Mr.  Clements  Mabkiiam  said  that  Captain  All>crt  Markham  regretted  very 
muuh  his  inability  to  he  present,  aa  he  was  anxiouB  to  put  a  few  questions  Ut 
Mr.  Leigh  Smith.    Most  of  them  had,  however,  been  anticipated  in  the  paper.* 


4 

4 


•  Captain  Markham  wrote  as  follows :—"  H.M.S.  Vcnwn^  11th  Febrmnf,  1883. — 
I  um  particulurly  auxiiius  to  know  the  exact  condition  of  the  ice  in  tho  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  laud  during  the  winter  moalhs,  whether  navigable  streiims  of  water 
existed,  and  if  so,  in  whnt  dirt-'Ction  they  trendeil,  wbether  parallel  to  the  coast  or 
otherwise  ?  whether  the  puck  was  in  motion  throughout  the  winter,  und  in  what  direc- 
tion was  its  general  drift  ?  wbs  it  a  looso  pack,  or  did  it  coubist  of  extensive  does  with 
level  surfaces  ?  what  were  the  heights  of  the  grounded  floe  berpnJ  or  hummoeks  ?  and 
was  there  a  permanent  ice-fool  along  the  coast  ?  if  not,  when  did  the  laud  ice  commence 
to  fiiTiii,  and  was  it  suitiible  for  travelling  on  witli  sledges,  or  wua  it  broken  up  into  a 
maHs  of  hiumuocks  by  tho  pressure  of  the  pack  ? 

'^  Wxis  imy  rise  and  tail  ot'  the  tide  observeil  duritig  the  months  that  Leigh  Smith  aud 
bis  purty  were  on  elioro?  if  so,  it  woxdd  be  interesting  to  know  what  it  was,  aud  also  in 
which  directiuD  tho  tido  ebbetl  and  tlowed, 

"  Whs  the  hill  of  anow  during  the  wiuter  excessive  ?  and  what  thickness  of  ice  was 
f-iruieii  between  October  and  Jlay  ?  It  would  iae  important  idao  to  know  what  datu  tho 
tlmw  commenced,  and  if  the  snow  in  tho  valleys  or  on  the  sides  of  tho  hills  jKisseusing  a 
southern  aspect  wiis  meltetl  befure  the  piirty  left  Fmnz-Josef  Land.  Were  gwles  of  wind 
exi»eriencet!  during  the  winter  montlia?  if  so,  from  what  quarter  were  the  moat  prevalent 
and  the  most  tempestuous?    What  wind  brought  tho  finest  weather  ? 

"  Were  they  much  pestered  with  fogs  ?  All  details  connectetl  with  the  wintering  in 
Ftanz-Josef  Land  will  \>e  most  interesting,  however  trivial  they  may  appear  tu  be!  I 
hear  the  men  took  but  Httlo  exercise  during  the  winter,  in  fact  remained  in  tlieir  beds 
the  greater  part  of  the  tiuie  1  Is  this  the  cnac  ?  for  it  was  8;iid  hv  some  tlmt  tho  onjtbreak 
of  scurvy  in  our  expedition  In  1875  was  in  o  great  measure  due  to  tho  insufficient 
exercise  taken  by  our  meu,  yet  they  were  compelled  to  take  exercise  for  two  and  some- 


4 
4 


VOlfAGE  OF  THK  EIHA  TO  FHANZ-JOSEF  LAND.— DISCUSSION.     227 


ft 

ft 

I 


In  tbe  letter  he  hod  written  he  hod  also  referred  to  the  Americans  now  passing 
tbdr  second  winter  in  Discoverj'  Bay.  He  said: — "It  is  difficult  to  speculate 
as  to  titeir  present  position ;  whether  they  passed  the  winter  in  their  onm  house^ 
or  w}>othor  they  deserted  it  last  summer  with  the  idea  of  travelling  south  in 
order  to  meet  the  relief  ship  which  we  know  was  unaLle  to  reach  them.  In 
any  case  their  position  now  is  an  wnenviuble  one,  hut  in  the  latter  case  it  would  be 
critical  in  the  extreme,  for  they  would  not  have  been  able  to  carry  with  them  sufti- 
cicnt  provision  to  hist  the  winter,  although  Iht.')'  would  of  course  make  use  of  the 
f«tw  depdts  left  by  us  along  the  coast.  It  is  to  be  hoiked  tfaat  musk-oxen  and  rein- 
deer will  be  found ;  we  found  traces  of  these  animals  on  our  way  up  Smith  Sound, 
X  see  the  animals  themselves  south  of  Liuiy  Franklin  Strait.  1  sincerely 
Society  will  consider  the  question  of  sending  a  ship  up  this  summer,  to  look 
further.  The  Americans  of  course  will  send  ;  but  tlieir  relief  expedition  ought  to 
be  supplemented  by  one  from  this  country.  AVe  owe  it  to  them  for  the  lilwral  way 
in  which  they  assisted  us  in  our  search  for  Sir  Juhn  Franklin ;  and  \\q  owe  it  also 
to  ourselves  as  a  great  maritime  nation  which  has  ever  taken  the  lead  in  Arctic 
esf  »loration.  Besides,  we  have  officers  possessing  a  greater  knowledge  of  the  navigation 
of  Smith  Sound  than  those  of  any  other  country." 

The  pREsiDEKT,  in  moving  a  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  Dr.  Neale, 
aid  he  was  glad  to  hear  Sir  George  Nares  dilate  u]x>n  a  subject  which  the  com- 
mander of  the  expedition  could  himself  hardly  have  mentioned,  namely,  the  singular 
force  of  character  that  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  must  have  possessed  to  have  kept  his  men 
in  a  stAte  of  perfect  discipline,  order,  and  good  humour  during  such  a  trying  time. 
It  frequently  happened  that  such  was  the  strength  of  the  galea  and  the  violence  of 
tho  soowstorms,  that  they  were  confined  to  the  hut  fur  eight  days  together;  yet 
there  tnts  do  murmuring,  do  impatieDCd»  no  approach  to  indiscipline.  So  succGssful 
the  wintering  and  escape,  and  so  ^fortunate  was  the  relief,  that  many  persons 
apt  to  overlook  the  very  great  dangers  tliat  might  Ciisily  have  befallen  the 
expedition.  If,  as  Sir  George  Kares  had  said,  the  vessel  had  been  nipiMjd  at  the  most 
DOftheru  point  it  had  reached,  the  probability  was  that  not  one  of  the  crew  would 
havfi  been  alive  at  the  present  moment,  Tbe  boat  journey,  t*j<.i,  when  Iwenty-fivc 
men  were  conBned  to  four  boats  for  seven  weeks,  and  underwent  the  immense  toil  of 
continually  dragging  the  boats  over  ice,  with  ail  the  inconveuienoes  of  the  Polar 
regions,  bordered  on  the  miraculous.  Had  Sir  Allen  Young  not  Iksch  detained  by 
his  accident  he  certainly  would  have  taken  his  course  up  along  tbe  northern  coast 
of  Novaya  Zemlya,  and  so  wuuld  have  missed  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  party,  when  a 
fdmilar  misfortune  to  that  which  befell  the  Eim  might  have  belhllcn  tbe  //o/mi,  and 


I 


times  five  boors  every  day !  Did  no  soorbtitic  symptoms  of  any  kind  appour  among.-<t  the 
i.'«ra'*  crow,  either  during  Iheir  reftideiice  in  Frnnz-Josef  Land,  or  after  their  return  to 
England?  I  should  like  to  know  particularly  if  they  over  complained  of  pnins  in  their 
booes  similar  to  rbcamutio  jtain:^?  Were  tbeir  jotnta  observed  to  swell?  or  did  their 
gams  get  sore?  It  would  bo  interestiiit;  to  know  the  exact  routine  observed  during  thi- 
winter,  And  oU  details  oonnectcd  with  tbe  ventilation  of  their  boose,  and  other  sanitary 
•RSAgements. 

**  After  tbeir  dejmrture  from  winter  quarters  I  am  curious  to  know  in  what  direction 

ick  driftwl  when  the  boats  woro  bi'set,  before  open  water  in  the  Barents  Sea  was 
il  ?    Wua  the  drift  effected  by  the  wind,  and  how  wua  its  courae  dctcmained?  by 

lotnical  observations,  I  presume. 
*'  Beyond  the  portion  of  an  antler  whidi  I  hear  was  picked  up,  were  any  other  (races 
or  signs  of  tbe  existence  of  rcindeur  on  Franz-Josef  Land  observed?     A  list  of  all 
specimens  of  animal  life  seen  in  the  neightHJurhood  of  their  winter  quarters  wuuld  be 
▼eiy  interesting,  and  highly  important  to  fatore  explorers." 


228  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

an  ftdventnre  which  had  ended  so  happily  might  have  closed  in  disaster.  However, 
"  All's  well  that  ends  well."  He  had  listened  with  the  greatest  gratification  to  Mr. 
Selhir's  observations  on  behalf  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  family.  He  need  not  say  that 
the  Geographical  Society  thought  it  their  duty  to  do  their  utmost  to  promote  a 
relief  exiiedition  on  behalf  of  one  who  had  been  recently  decorated  wth  one  of  their 
medals,  and  who  bad  shown  himself  so  eager  for  the  extension  of  our  scientific 
knowledge  of  the  northern  seas.  It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  hear  the  account  of 
dangers  so  bravely  encountered,  so  successfully  overcome,  and  to  congratulate  Mr. 
Leigh  Smith  and  his  friends  on  the  happy  termination  of  such  a  dangerous  expedi- 
tion. He  wished  to  make  one  remark  on  the  evidence  that  had  been  afforded  of  the 
friendly  brotherhood  which  existed  among  Arctic  voyagers  of  all  nations.  Tliey  had 
heard  of  the  assistance,  given  by  the  crew  of  the  WiU^m  Barents  to  Sir  Allen  Young, 
and  that  was  only  one  of  innumerable  instances  of  the  way  in  which  those  engaged 
in  similar  adventures  were  ready  to  hold  out  the  hand  of  good  fellowship  to  each 
other,  and  to  assist  one  another  in  cases  of  peril  and  necessity.  He  was  sure  they  must 
all  regret  the  absence  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  and  that  they  had  not  been  able  to. give 
him  a  personal  welcome. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

The  Mount  Kenia  and  Victoria  Nyanza  Expedition.  —  A  telegram 
has  been  received  from  Colonel  Miles  of  Zanzibar,  announcing  that 
jVIr.  Joseph  Thomson  started  for  the  interior  ^rom  Mombasa  on  the  10th 
of  March — "  All  well  and  prospects  good." 

New  Expedition  to  the  East  of  Lake  ITyassa. — Our  enterprising 
associate  Mr.  H.  E.  O'Neill  is  about  to  undertake  another  long  journey 
of  exploration  into  the  unexplored  regions  between  Mozambique  and 
Lake  Nyassa.  His  chief  objects  will  be  to  examine  the  eastern  and 
northern  shores  of  Lake  Shirwa,  and  to  reach  the  rumoured  snow-capped 
mountain  a  little  further  to  the  north-east.  The  Society  assists  Mr. 
O'Neill  with  a  grant  of  200Z.  towards  tho  expenses  of  his  expedition. 

Portngnese  Bonndaries  in  the  Congo  Eegion. — An  African  Com- 
mittee of  the  Lisbon  Geographical  Society,  under  tho  Presidency  of  the 
Vicomte  de  San  Januario,  and  consisting  (among  others)  of  such  autho- 
rities as  Seuorcs  Barbosa  du  Bocagc,  Luciano  Cordeiro,  Serpa  Pinto, 
Capello,  and  Ivens,  has  recently  published,  both  in  Portuguese  and 
French,  a  Memorandum  on  the  Bights  of  Portugal  as  regards  the 
question  of  the  Congo.  Li  this  Memorandum,  tho  origin  and  continuity 
not  only  of  the  right  of  Portugal,  but  of  her  exercise  of  sovereignty 
over  the  Congo  and  tho  territories  to  the  north  of  it  are  categorically 
stated,  and  considered  to  be  demonstrated  in  accordance  with  the 
requirements  of  international  law,  both  by  discovery,  possession,  and 
recognition  (with  various  subsidiary  circumstances,  repetition  or  analysis 
of  which  is  not  appropriate  here,  tliey  being  purely  political).  The 
result  is  an  assertion  of  Portuguese  authority  ou  the  coast-line  north- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES.  £29 

wards  &om  the  Congo  without  intemiption  to  the  territory  of  Molembo 
incluaiyely,  aooompanied  by  a  decided  opinion  that  it  could  be  claimed 
for  a  much  greater  distance  in  that  direction,  the  actual  line  of  demar- 
cation being  in  general  terms  considered  as  determined  by  the  parallel 
of  5°  12'  S.  lat.,  or  by  the  river  Luango-Luce  (Cacongo),  which  to  some 
extent  includes  the  territory  claimed.  ITiis  territory  is  prefatially 
referred  to  as  that  part  of  the  Portuguese  province  of  Angola  which 
oomprisoB  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Congo,  crossed  by  the  Congo  river 
and  politically  bounded  on  the  sea-coast  by  the  parallel  above  referred 
ta  The  interior  line  of  demarcation  towards  the  Upper  Congo  is  stated 
to  remain  undetermined  and  to  be  dependent  on  the  needs  and  future 
resolutions  of  the  Portuguese  administration  and  colonial  policy,  there 
being  no  necessity  as  yet  for  greater  precision,  because  no  immediate 
territorial  rights  by  any  civilised  nation  have  been  recognised  either  on 
the  coast  or  in  the  interior.  The  whole  of  the  lower  course  of  the 
Congo  is  considered  indubitably  to  be  included  in  this  province,  which, 
as  it  extends  eastwards  as  far  as  the  region  of  Jacca  and  Lunda,  also 
includes  a  part  of  the  upper  waters  of  that  river.  The  frontier  line 
here  is  statfed  to  be  only  capable  of  definition  by  future  treaties  with 
native  chiefs  or  by  their  submission  to  Portuguese  sovereignty,  since  there 
are  no  territorial  rights  possessed  by  civilised  Powers  towards  the  east. 
In  discussing  the  point  of  discovery,  apart  from  generalities,  chief 
reliance  is  placed  on  the  voyages  south  of  the  Equator  by  Portuguese  in 
]  464,  including  the  discovery  of  the  Cape  of  Santa  Catharina  on  1°  62' 
S.  lat.  by  Joao  do  Sequeira;  the  successful  grant  in  1469  to  Fernao 
Gomes  of  rights  of  commercial  exploration  south  of  Sierra  Leone,  and 
the  voyage  of  Soeiro  da  Costa  and  Pedro  de  Cintra  in  1462  as  far 
south  as  e''  19'  16"  N.  lat. ;  the  naming  of  the  modem  Cape  Lopez  in 
0"*  86'  10"  S.  lat.  by  Lopo  Gonsalves  in  1469,  and  of  the  Costa  river  or 
Great  Bassom  by  Soeiro  da  Costa  in  1470,  during  which  year  and  the 
next  Joao  de  Santarcm  and  Pedro  d'Escobar  completed  the  exploration 
of  the  Mina  coast,  and  commenced  that  of  Benim,  which,  with  that 
of  Calabar,  was  so  successfully  terminated  in  1486  by  Joao  Afifonso 
d'Aveiro  ;  the  discoveries  of  the  river  Fernao  Vaz  (1°  51'  S.  lat.)  and 
Pedro  Dias  (now  Sesta,  Sette  or  Sett^,  2^  22'  30"  S.  lat.).  Point  FemSo 
Gomes,  Basa,  or  Das  Pedras,  corrupted  to  Piedras  (2°  42'  S.  lat.),  Cape 
Primeiro  or  Yumba  (3°  15'  S.  lat.),  the  roadstead  of  Alvaro  Martins 
(3°  22'  30"  S.  lat.).  Cape  Segundo  or  Point  Banda  (3°  55'  30"),  the  Bight 
of  rindio  or  Bay  of  Kilongo  (4°  16'  30"  S.  lat.),  the  Gulf  of  Judeu  or 
Bay  of  Loango,  and  the  gulf  of  the  Almadias  or  Bay  of  Cabinda — all  of 
which,  palpably  of  Portuguese  origin  like  many  others,  were  the  very 
first  names  on  the  most  ancient  charts,  attesting  the  priority  and  con- 
tinuity of  original  exploration  in  these  then  unknown  regions;  the 
actual  entry  of  the  Congo  by  Diogo  Cam,  in  pursuance  of  a  royal  edict 
issued  in  1484,  and  the  erection  by  him,  in  1486,  of  three  commemorative 


230 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


monuments:  on©  at  Ponta  do  Padrao,  destroyed  by  the  Dutch  in  the 
seventeenth  century,  and  restored  by  the  Portuguese  Government  in 
185S,  the  Bccond  at  Cajw  Santa  Maria  (Vi"  27'  15"  8.  lat).  and  the  third 
at  Capo  Negro  (15°  40'  30"  S.  lat.) ;  and  the  doubling  of  the  Capo  of  1 
Good  Hope^  with  prior  discovery  of  all  the  rest  of  the  West  Coast,  by 
Bartholomen  Diaa  de  Xovacs  in  1487. 

Besides  these  discoveries  on  the  coast,  especial  reference  is  made  to 
the  elaborate  official  instructions  given  in  1520  to  Manocl  Pacheco  and 
Balthasar  de  Castro,  who  were  sent  for  the  purpose  of  studying  the 
Icingdom  of  Angola  and  the  territories  between  it  and  the  Cape;  the 
fii-st  European  relations  established  by  Diogo  Cam  during  his  two 
voyages  to  the  Congo  with  the  King  of  Sonho,  and  continued  with  the 
powerful  Muene  Congo^  or  Manicongo;  and  tho  landing  in  1491,  in 
the  roadstciid  of  Santo  Antonio  or  Sonho,  of  a  numerous  Portuguese 
colonising  expedition  sent  by  the  Government  under  Buy  de  Sousa, 
which  was  well  received  by  the  natives  and  entortaiuod  by  the  Muene 
Congo  at  his  capital,  now  San  Salvador,  This  hist  expedition  is  taken 
as  the  commencement  of  Portuguese  exploration  in  Etjua^rial  Africa, 
continued  without  interruption  to  this  day,  and  of  which  the  earUer 
attempts  are  brieJ9y  recapitulated,  with  incidental  reference  to  corro- 
borating evidence  afforded  by  maps.  Particular  stress  is  laid  upon  De 
Sousa's  expedition,  as  a  Portuguese  detachment  took  part  in  a  campaign 
whicli  the  King  of  Congo,  Xguiga-o-cuiim  (converted  and  baptised  as 
Dom  Joilo),  undertook  shortly  after  its  arrival  against  certain  revolted 
tribes  of  the  Upper  Congo,  which  are  now  identified  as  the  Makoko  of 
Stanley  Pool. 

Dr.  Holub's  Projected  African  Expedition. — ^We  hear  from  Dr.  Emil 
Holub  that  he  intends  to  start  again  fur  South  Africa,  from  Hamburg, 
at  tlic  end  of  May  next,  before  wLich  lie  will  revisit  England.  He  is 
now  finishing  his  studies  at  the  Royal  Military  Geographical  Institute 
of  Vienna,  where  he  has  been  for  some  time  engaged  in  acquiring  a 
practical  knowledge  of  scientific  observations.  The  programme,  of 
which  he  sends  an  outline,  includes  astronomical,  topographical  and 
hypsometrical  work  on  a  comprehensive  scale,  as  well  as  those  zoo- 
logical, botanical,  and  geological  subjects  for  which  his  former 
experiences  have  fitted  hiui. 

Stations  of  the  French  Jesuit  nissioa  in  South  Equatorial  AMca. — 

The  powerful  body  of  French  Jesuits  are  silently  si>ri^ading  themselveg 
over  tho  whole  Zambesi  valley,  settling  in  all  localities  which  afford 
promise  of  success.  The  insalubrity  of  the  climate  seems  to  exercise  no 
deterring  influence ;  nine  members  succumbed  in  the  three  years  1880-2, 
but  others  quickly  arrive  to  supply  their  place.  The  stations  founded 
by  them  are  at  present  eight  in  number,  vIk.  Gubuhiwayo  (capital  of 
Matahele-land) ;  Penda-jna-tenka  (the  gieat  trading  mart,  south  of  the 


(GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  231 

river);  Tati  gold-fields;  Shesheke,  on  the  Upper  Zambesi;  Moemba 
arabne ;  Tete ;  Mopea,  near  the  month  of  the  Shire ;  and  Qnillimane. 

Hordenskiold's  proposed  Greenland  Expedition. — Mr.  Oscar  Dickson 
has  made  a  visit  to  Copenhagen  with  the  object  of  making  preliminary- 
arrangements  with  the  Danish  Government  in  connection  with  the  pro- 
posed Swedish  Expedition.  He  was  very  well  received  by  the  King, 
-who  has  sanctioned  the  expedition,  and  met  also  with  a  flattering  recep- 
tion at  a  meeting  of  the  Danish  Geographical  Society,  where  ho  explained 
the  objects  of  the  undertaking.  In  his  speech  he  gave  prominence  to 
the  historic  interest  of  Greenland,  and  its  original  colonisation  by 
Icelanders  as  related  in  the  old  chronicles,  and  the  tragic  disappearance 
of  the  early  Danish  colonies  and  invasion  of  the  country  by  American 
Esquimaux.  Thus  Greenland  had  become  almost  forgotten  until  the 
rediscovery  of  its  western  coast,  which  both  geographically  and  ethno- 
graphically  was  the  best  known  of  all  Polar  countries.  Such,  however, 
was  not  the  case  with  the  south-east  coast,  of  which  only  a  small  portion 
of  its  southern  side  was  yet  known.  The  interior  of  Greenland  was  still 
a  terra  incognita,  and  formed  an  immense  stretch  of  land  well  worth 
investigation.  Owing  to  the  researches  made  by  Nordenskiold  and 
Lieutenant  Jansen,  it  could  hardly  be  thought  that  the  whole  interior 
of  tho  island  was  covered  with  ice ;  and  this  view  was  borne  out  by  its 
known  geographical  formation,  and  from  the  fact  that  tho  temperature 
and  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere  afforded  strong  proof  that  the 
interior  of  the  island  gave  birth  to  its  name.  The  expedition,  he  said, 
intended  giving  attention  to  many  branches  of  scientific  research ; 
among  others,  to  determining  the  direction  of  tho  ice-drift  between 
Iceland  and  Cape  Farewell ;  an  examination  of  the  ice-fields,  the  fossil 
vegetation,  &o,  "While  Nordenskiold  prosecuted  his  researches  inland, 
another  portion  of  the  expedition  would  examine  parts  of  the  west  coast 
where  it  was  known  that  curious  blocks  of  iron  existed.  The  expedition 
would  be  accompanied  by  a  staflF  of  specialists.  Another  object  of  the 
expedition  would  be  to  discover  the  site  of  "  Osterbygden  "  (East  colony), 
and  having  studied  the  earliest  chronicles  of  this  interesting  settlement, 
he  could  hardly  fail  to  believe  that  traces  of  it  would  be  found  on  the 
east  coast.  Tho  expedition  would  sail  in  May  on  a  well-equipped 
steamer,  and  if  the  condition  of  tho  ice  was  favourable,  would  proceed 
direct  to  the  east  coast.  If,  however,  such  was  not  the  case,  it  would 
first  disembark  on  the  west  coast,  after  which  an  attempt  would  bo 
made  from  Cape  Farewell  to  proceed  along  the  east  coast,  if  a  channel 
between  it  and  the  ice  could  be  found.  It  was  intended  that  the 
expedition  should  return  to  Europe  in  November. 

Bnssian  Polar  Meteorological  Station  at  the  Konth  of  the  Lena. — 
The  party  of  scientific  observers  and  their  assistants,  who  were  appointed 
to  establish  the  Bussian  polar  station  in  the  Lena  delta,  eml^ked  at 


232  OBITUARY. 

Yakutsk  in  four  boats  to  descend  the  river  on  the  20tli  of  June  last, 
and  arrived  at  their  destination,  Sagastyr  Island,  on  the  10th  of  August 
The  last  news  of  them  was  brought  by  two  United  States  officers, 
Messrs.  Schutze  and  Harbor,  who  had  been  engaged  in  the  search  for 
possible  survivors  of  the  Jeannette  Expedition.  They  left  the  Bussian 
party  in  the  middle  of  October,  all  well  and  comfortably  housed  for  the 
winter.  In  addition  to  the  three  scientific  observers,  there  were  two 
members  of  the  signal  corps  and  seventeen  Yakut  workmen.  Lieutenant 
Jurgens,  the  head  of  the  station,  had  determined  its  position  by 
astronomical  observation  as  N.  lat.  TS**  22'  30"  and  E.  long.  126"*  34'  55". 
The  party  are  well  furnished  with  provisions,  including  two  live  oows 
and  a  calf,  and  have  a  supply  of  petroleum  for  light  and  fuel.  The 
warm  and  comfortable  dwelling-house,  as  well  as  the  separate  obser- 
vatories, communicating  by  covered  passages,  were  constructed  in 
sections  at  Yakutsk,  and  can  bo  put  together  or  taken  to  pieces  with 
ease  and  rapidity.  A  good  collection  of  books  and  various  games  for 
evening  amusements  have  also  been  provided,  and  a  service  of  monthly 
posts  between  the  station  and  Yakutsk  arranged. 

Lessar's  Journey  from  Askabad  to  Herat. — We  learn  that  an  account 
of  M.  Lessar's  recent  journey  of  exploration  from  Askabad  to  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Herat  will  shortly  be  published  in  the  French  language  at 
St.  Petersburg.  It  is  said  that  it  is  the  opinion  of  this  enterprising 
engineer  that  the  Oxus  can  bo  diverted  into  its  old  bed  to  the  Caspian. 


WiUiam  Desborongh  Cooley. — This  eminent  geographical  writer  and  critic 
died,  at  a  good  old  age,  ou  the  1st  of  March  last.  For  a  series  of  years  he  took  a 
prominent  part  in  discussing,  ia  literary  and  scientific  journals  and  in  (Nmiplilcts, 
disputed  questions  of  Central  African  geography,  at  a  tiihe  when  practical  discovery 
marched  too  slowly  for  the  impatience  of  a  certain  section  of  the  public,  and 
hypothesis  was  invoked  to  piece  together  our  imjierfect  and  disjointed  topographical 
knowlalge.  In  these  discussions  Mr.  Cooley  distinguished  himself  by  the  vigour  of 
his  style  of  writing  and  his  mastership  of  the  literature  of  African  geography.  He 
was  also  a  good  linguist,  and  had  perfected  his  acquaintance  with  Ki-Swahili,  the 
lingua  franca  of  Eastern  Africa,  by  taking  lessons  of  an  intelligent  native  of  Zanzibar 
whom  accident  had  brought  to  the  ix)rt  of  London.  It  was  probably  to  the  same 
authority,  if  not  to  theoretical  considerations  solely,  that  he  owed  the  fixed  idea 
which  was  the  foundation  of  much  of  his  bitter  opposition  to  other  geographers  and 
travellers,  that  the  Central  African  lakes  formed  one  extensive  inland  sea.  It  must 
be  allowed,  however,  that  his  writings  contributed  in  no  small  degree  to  keep  alive 
public  attention  to  African  geography,  and  to  a  certain  extent  led  the  way  to  the 
great  discoveries  of  the  Last  quarter  of  a  century. 

The  chief  works  which  emanated  from  his  industrious  pen  were,  1.  *  History  of 
Maritime  and  Inland  Discovery,'  3  vols.,  1830;  translated  into  French  in  1840  j 


OBITUARY.  233 

2.  *  Negroland  of  the  Arabs  examined  and  explained,'  1841 ;  3.  *  Inner  Africa  laid 
open,*  1852;  4.  *  Claudius  Ptolemy  and  the  Nile,'  1854;  5,  *Dr,  Livingstones  Reise 
Tom  Fluss  Liambey  nach  Loanda  in  1853-4,  kritisch  und  kommentarisch  belenchtet,' 
1855;  6.  'Memoir  of  the  Lake  Regions  of  East  Africa  reviewed,'  1854;  7.  'Dr. 
Livingstone's  Errors,'  1865 ;  8.  *  Dr.  Livingstone  and  the  Boyal  Geographical 
Society,*  1874;  9.  *  Physical  Geography,  or  the  Terraqueous  Globe  and  its  Phe- 
nomena,* 1876.  Besides  which  were  the  following  memoirs  contributed  to  the  pages 
of  our  Journal ;  1.  On  the  Civilisation  of  the  Tribes  inhabiting  the  Highlands  near 
DcUgoa  Bay,  vol.  3  (1833);  2.  The  Geography  of  N'yassi,  or  the  Great  Lake  of 
Southern  Africa,  investigated,  v'ol.  15  (1845) ;  3,  Further  Explanations  in  refsrence 
to  the  Geography  of  N'yassi,  vol.  16  (1846) ;  4.  On  the  JRegio  Cinnamont/era  of  the 
Ancients,  vol.  19  (1849) ;  5.  Notes  of  a  Caravan  Journey  from  the  East  to  the  West 
ooaat  of  Africa,  vol.  24  (1854).  Among  his  minor  works  may  be  mentioned  a  long 
series  of  controversial  articles  on  African  subjects,  contributed  to  the  Athenceum^  a 
translation  in  two  vols,  of  Erman's  *  Reise  urn  die  Erde,'  and  an  article  in  the 
Foreign  Quarterly  Heview  in  the  year  1832,  exposing  the  fictitious  nature  of 
Douville's  *  Voyage  au  Congo  et  dans  I'lnt^rieur  do  I'Afrique  ^uinoxiale,'  published 
in  three  volumes,  in  the  same  year,  at  Paris. 

Notwithstanding  his  learning,  unwearied  industry,  trenchant  and  vigorous  style, 
and  the  amount  of  information  contained  In  his  various  writings,  it  is  doubtful 
whether  Cooley's  literary  reputation  will  long  survive  him.  An  exception  may 
perhaps  be  claimed  for  his  *  Physical  Geography/  a  thoroughly  original  work  which  has 
not  yet  met  with  the  attention  it  deserves ;  but  his  other  productions  were  tinctured 
too  conspicuously  with  obstinate  prejudice  to  be  pleasant  reading  or  to  aid  students 
in  their  search  after  truth.  In  fact  Geographical  Discovery,  during  the  author's 
own  lifetime,  demonstrated  the  fallacy  of  the  opinions  he  propounded  with  so  much 
vehemence,  especially  his  denial  of  the  existence  of  snow-oipped  mountains  in 
Equatorial  Africa,  the  discovery  of  which  by  Rebmann  and  Krapf  he  disbelieved 
and  ridiculed,  liis  separation  of  the  Zambesi  into  two  distinct  river  basins,  and 
disconnection  of  Lakes  Tanganyika  and  Nyassa.  The  two  latter  hypotheses  were 
reiterated  and  eloquently  argued  out  in  his  paper  read  at  one  of  our  meetings  so  late 
as  October  1864,  when  they  were  confuted  in  the  discussion  which  followed  by 
travellers  in  the  same  regions.  Captain  Speke,  Dr.  Kirk,  and  others ;  the  paper  was 
published  only  in  abstract  in  vol.  viii.  of  the  old  series  of  the  *  Proceedings.'  He 
never,  in  fact,  admitted  his  errors,  and  in  private  conversation  to  the  last  was  just 
as  strongly  opposed  to  Krapf,  Livingstone,  and  others  as  he  was  a  generation  ago. 
His  afiBiction  of  deafness,  and  the  social  isolation  which  it  entailed,  seem  to  have 
intensified  the  peculiarities  of  his  temperament,  but  he  was  a  true  lover  of 
Geography  and  the  kindred  sciences,  and  on  this  account  merits  a  kindly  word  in 
these  pages.  He  had  been  a  Fellow  of  our  Society  since  1830,  and  was  made  an 
Honorary  Free  Member  in  1864.  In  his  connection  with  us  he  was  always  ready  to 
be  of  service,  and  two  or  three  years  ago,  when  disposing  of  his  library,  made 
us  the  generous  gift  of  such  of  his  books  as  were  wanting  to  our  collection,  the 
Librarian  making  the  selection,  which  amounted  to  60  volumes  of  valuable 
geographical  works,  He  had  lived  for  many  years  quite  alone,  in  humble 
London  lodgings,  supported  during  his  later  years  almost  solely  by  the  civil  list 
pension  of  1002.  granted  him  in  1859. 


No.  IV.— April  1883.] 


(    234    ) 


BEPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882-3. 

Seventh  Meeting,  26th  February,  1883. — The  Eight  Hon.  Lo&d  Abkrt>abb, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elections. — John  Anderson,  Esq.;  Charles  Albert  Barber,  Esq.;  H%$  Grace 
the  Duke  of  Buckingham  and  Chandos;  Bertram  Buxton,  Esq.;  Herbert  Druce, 
Esq. ;  John  Duncuft,  Esq.;  Arthur  Howard  Frere,  Esq. ;  Francis  Maihew,  Eaq.j 
Charles  W.  Mills,  Esq.;  Thomas  B.  Muggeridge,  Esq.;  Frederick  Sliarp,  Eag.; 
Frederick  Tooth,  Esq. 

A  paper  was  read  by  Mr.  R.  B.  White,  c.E.,  F.o.s.,  "  On  the  Central  Province  of 
Colombia."  It  will  be  published,  with  discussion  and  map,  in  the  May  number  of 
the  '  Proceedings.' 

Projected  Swedish  axd  Danish  Expeditions  to  Gbeeklaxd. 

On  the  termination  of  the  discussion  which  followed  Mr.  "White's  paper : 
Mr.  Clements  Markhah  read  a  letter  from  Her  Majesty's  Minister  at  Stock- 
holm, relatmg  to  an  expedition  which  Professor  Nordcnskiold  was  about  to  lead  to 
Greenland  next  summer  (vide  *  Proceedings,'  ante,  March  number,  p.  165) :  also  the 
following  letter  from  Admiral  Irminger,  of  Copenhagen,  announcing  a  Danish 
Expedition  to  the  same  country : 

*'  Copenhagen,  Febmary  23rd,  1883. 
"  In  the  month  of  May  this  year,  an  expedition  equipped  by  our  Government, 
will  leave  Copenhagen  for  Greenland.  This  expedition  will  be  commanded  by 
Lieutenant  Holm  of  the  Danish  Navy.  Lieutenant  Holm  has  already  made  three 
expeditions  to  Greenland,  and  he  will  be  joined  by  a  younger  lieutenant  of  the 
navy,  Mr.  Garde,  and  two  scientific  men,  representing  geology  and  botany.  The 
expedition  will  proceed  from  South  Greenland,  in  Greenland  boats,  followed  by 
Greenlandcrs,  round  Cape  Farewell,  and  continue  north  along  the  east  coast.  This 
is  the  same  route  that  Captain  Graah  took ;  but  the  present  expedition  will  do  their 
utmost  to  penetrate  to  the  interior,  which,  as  you  know,  Captain  Graah  had  no 
time  to  do.    It  is  determined  that  the  expedition  will  take  at  least  two  years." 

The  President  said  these  communications  held  out  a  rich  promise  of  interesting 
discoveries.  The  name  of  Greenland  seemed  a  strange  one  as  associated  with  a 
country  of  perennial  ice.  It  was  a  moot  question  whether,  as  Professor  Nordenskiold 
believed,  the  interior  consisted  of  fresh  pastures,  or  whether,  in  former  days,  speculators 
gave  the  country  such  a  name  in  order  to  attract  colonists  to  that  inhospitable 
re^on.  The  question  might  be  cleared  up  by  Professor  Nordenskiold.  There  wag 
another  subject  of  the  greatest  possible  interest  on  which  some  light  might  be 
thrown.  Reference  had  often  been  made  to  the  invasion  by  ice  and  snow  of  many 
of  the  vaUeys  of  Greenland  which  were  once  -peopled  by  thriving  and  tolerably 
prosperous  communities.  Beyond  all  question  many  |of  the  valleys  to  the  north 
which  were  once  occupied  by  settlers  from  Iceland  and  Norway,  had  been  gradually 
filled  with  ice.  The  subject  had  not  attracted  as  much  attention  as  it  might  have 
been  supposed  its  importance  to  the  future  destinies  of  Europe  would  naturally 
attract ;  and  one  interesting  result  of  the  joint  visits  of  the  expeditions  from 
Denmark  and  Sweden,  would  undoubtedly  be  to  throw  some  light  upon  it. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  235 

EiglUh  Meeting,  12th  March,  1883.— The  Bight  Hon.  Lord  Aberdare, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Elictioxs.— ITiomaa  Parry,  Esq.;  William  Petersen,  Esq.;  Hussell  Shaw, 
Esq.  J  Rev.  Theed  John  Watson^  U.A. 

The  following  paper  was  read : — 

**  Mousketofs  Explorations  of  the  Zarafshan  Glacier/*    By  E.  Delmar  Morgan. 

The  paper  forms  a  part  only  of  a  larger  memoir  on  Kecent  llussian  Explorations 
in  the  mountainous  region  of  Eastern  Bokhara,  which  will  shortly  be  published, 
with  map,  in  the  *  Proceedings.' 


PROCEEDINGS  OP  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris.— March  2nd,  1883 :  31.  Aktoine  d'Abbabie, 
(of  the  Institute)  President  of  the  Central  Commission,  in  the  Chair. — ^Dr,  Hamy, 
Vice-President  of  the  Cenlrar, Commission,  addressed  some  words  of  welcome  to 
M.  d'Abbadie  on  his  return  from  the  mission  with  which  he  was  charged  by  the 
Academy  of  Sciences,  viz.  to  make  observations  upon  the  transit  of  Venus.  More 
fortunate  than  many  of  his  colleagues,  M.  d'Abbadie  was  favoured  on  that  day  by  the 
weather,  and  science  will  certainly  profit  by  this  happy  circumstance. — The  General 
Secretary  called  the  attention  of  the  Society  to  the  photographs  exhibited  in  the  hall, 
which  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  the  daring  explorer  of  the  Polar  Regions^ 
the  photographs  representing  the  regions  traversed  by  the  traveller. — The  Geo- 
graphical Service  of  the  Array  (through  the  War  Minister)  transmitted  the  first 
part,  in  six  sheets,  of  the  map  of  Africa,  scale  1:  2,000,000,  published  by  that  service; 
it  will  comprise  sixty  sheets.  An  explanatory  account  accompanies  it. — The 
Minister  of  Published  "Works  sent  the  fourth  part  of  the  map  of  France,  scale 
1 :  200,000,  published  by  this  administration.  The  number  of  sheets  which  have 
already  appeared  is  twenty-five  out  of  the  125  which  the  complete  map  will  contain. 
Accompanying  this  is  a  map  of  the  Department  of  the  Lower  Seine  on  the  same  scale. 
— A  map  of  Africa  was  submitted  to  the  Society  by  M.  Brau  de  St.  Pol  Lias,  which, 
according  to  statements  made  to  him,  belonged  to  Livingstone  during  his  first 
jonmey.  The  celebrated  traveller  had  given  it  to  a  man  named  Juan  dAcosta 
Suarez,  with  whom  he  had  lodged,  and  of  whom  ho^speaks  in  his  account.  Should 
the  authenticity  of  this  document  be  confirmed,  it  will  be  a  valuable  geographical 
relic  to  be  added  to  the  Society's  collections.— The  iMeuse  Section  of  the  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  the  East  (Nancy),  the  section  which  sits  at  Bar-le-Duc,  sent  the 
programme  of  the  Geographical  and  Ethnographical  Exhibition  to  be  held  in  that 
town  finom  the  20th  August  to  the  20th  September,  1883. — M.  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps, 
President  of  the  Society,  announced  that  he  was  going  to  be  absent  for  ar  month.  He 
is  proceeding  to  Africa  to  Commander  Roudaire,  who  has  been  there  for  two  months 
in  connection  with  the  works  of  this  "  inland  sea,"  about  which  so  much  has  been  said 
recently.  M.  de  Lesseps  will  start  with  a  number  of  engineers  who  are  going  to  make 
their  report  as  to  the  possibility  of  executing  this  scheme.  Commander  Boudaire 
does  not  now  solicit  tne  assistance  of  the  government ;  it  will  be  a  purely  private 
enterprise.  In  conclusion,  M.  de  Lesseps  read  a  letter  favouring  the  enterprise  whidi 
had  been  written  by  Abdel  Kader  to  the  military  and  religious  chiefs  of  the  provinces 
of  Tunis  and  Algeria,  through  which  the  explorers  will  have  to  pass ;    this  letter  is 

B   2 


286  PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

inserted  in  the  Journal  of  the  Suez  Canal  Company.*  A  letter  from  Dr.  Bayol,  who 
is  charged  with  a  mission  to  Senegal,  gave  occasion  to  M.  de  Lcsseps  to  make  some 
farther  remarks.  He  (M,  de  Lesseps)  dwelt  upon  the  two  important  events  which 
have  just  taken  place  in  that  colony ;  first,  the  passage  of  the  first  train  over  the 
XX)rtion  of  railroad  which  has  just  been  opened  in  Sen^al ;  secondly,  the  arrival  of 
Colonel  Borgnis-Deshordes  upon  the  middle  Niger,  where  the  French  flag  is 
definitely  set  up.  The  practical  consequences  of  these  two  events  do  not  concern  the 
Society,  which  only  sees  in  them  the  opening  of  a  new  epoch  for  African  studies. 
M.  de  Lcsseps  reminded  the  Society  of  the  names  and  works  of  French  travellers 
who  have  contributed  to  this  result,  viz.  MM.  B^n^  Cailli^,  Mage,  the  Gallieni 
and  Derrien  Missions,  without  forgetting  the  late  Governor  of  Senegal,  General 
Faidherbe. — M.  Lequds  wrote  from  Noiunea  (New  Caledonia)  on  the  21st  December, 
1882,  announcing  his  approaching  return  to  Paris.  He  is  bringing  Avith  him  some 
interesting  collections ;  a  topographical  map  and  also  a  miueralogical  map  of  New 
Caledonia,  notes  on  that  colony  as  well  as  upon  Australia,  Tasmania,  and  New 
Zealand,  to  supplement  all  the  Geographical  Dictionaries  in  use;  lastly,  a 
collection  of  vocabularies  containing  all  the  idioms  of  New  Caledonia,  the 
Loyalty  Islands,  and  the  New  Hebrides,  apart  from  information  on  the  mytho- 
logy of  the  natives,  collections  of  their  romances,  and  of  their  songs,  &c. 
He  will  no  longer  be  prevented  from  bringing  to  Paris  a  group  of  twelve 
Canaques,  men  and  women.  This  project  will  be  communicated  to  M.  Geofftoy 
de  St.  Hilaire,  director  of  the  "  Jardin  d'Acclimatation,**  at  Paris. — M.  Dutreuil  de 
Rhins  gave  an  account  of  the  recent  exploration  of  Tibet  by  a  pundit.  He  also  com- 
mented on  the  article  published  on  this  subject  in  the  *  Proceedings  of  the  Boyol 
Geographical  Society,'  and  insisted  principally  on  the  part  which  concerns  the  inter- 
esting problem  of  the  junction  of  the  great  rivers  of  Tibet,  China,  and  Indo-China. 
The  solution  of  the  question  of  the  Sanpo  is  exactly  what  M.  D.  de  Rhins  had  fore- 
seen :  the  river  Sanpo  is  not  the  upper  course  of  the  Irawadi,  but  properly  that  of 
the  Brahmaputra.  He  showed  what  are  the  other  important  results  of  this  explora- 
tion, and  especially  the  light  which  it  has  thrown  on  the  most  unknown  part  of 
Tibet,  viz.  that  quadrilateral,  ivfice  as  large  as  France,  lying  between  Lhassa  and 
Ta-tsien-lu  on  the  south,  and  the  40th  parallel  on  the  north.  M.  D.  de  Rhins  had 
the  route  taken  by  the  Anglo-Indian  traveller  described  on  the  blackboard  for  the 
benefit  of  the  audience. — M.  Casjari,  hydrographical  engineer  of  the  Navy,  presented 
several  maps,  accompanied  by  a  description  of  the  coasts  of  Anam.  These  maps 
concern  that  part  of  the  coast  which  extends  from  Cape  Padaran  to  the  island  of 
Hon-tsen  in  the  Gulf  of  Tongking,  or  from  IP  to  18°  lat.  N.  The  surveys  have 
been  made  (from  1877-9)  by  M.  Caspari,  with  the  assistance,  from  the  commencement 
of  1878,  of  M.  Kenand,  another  hydrographical  engineer.  'J'he  maps  are  published  by 
the  Map  and  Plan  Depot  of  the  Minister  of  the  Navy.  One  of  the  two  pamphlets 
presented  by  M.  Caspari,  and  accompanying  the  maps,  is  a  nautical  description  of 
the  coast,  the  other  is  an  account  of  the  determining  of  some  geographical  positions, 
which  have  been  ascertained  directly  by  astronomical  observations ;  they  comprise 
outside  the  part  surveyed,  the  coasts  of  French  Cochin  China,  the  Gulf  of  Siam,  the 
island  of  Pulocondora  and  the  town  of  Bangkok.  Among  the  interesting  results 
obtained  for  geography,  in  addition  to  the  fixed  positions  and  nautical  information 
above-mentioned,  the  engineer  gives  the  following :  the  rectification  of  the  maps  of 
Dayot  and  of  La  Favorite,  the  fact  that  the  magnificent  harbours  of  Binh  Kang 
and  Xuanday  are  liable  to  the  encroachments  of  an  iidvancing  sandbank,  at  least  in 
their  more  shallow  parts,  the  determining  of  the  principal  summits  of  the  coast 


*  See  *  Le  Canal  de  Suez,'  of  March  2na,  1883. 


I 


PBOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  237 

range,  some  of  which  have  an  altitude  of  6500  feet  or  more.  Considering  the  small 
importance  of  the  rivers  which  debouch  on  the  coast,  it  is  probable  that  the  mountain 
chains  determined  form  the  separating  line  of  the  waters  of  the  Mekong,  which, 
according  to  the  ancient  mape,  will  have  to  be  traced  back  especially  towards  the 
east,  and  cause  the  enlargement  of  the  basin  of  this  great  river. — A  letter  was  read 
from  the  French  consul  at  Chicago,  relative  to  the  explorations  made  in  August 
last  by  General  Sheridan,  commander  of  the  military  division  of  the  Missouri, 
in  the  districts,  still  so  little  known,  under  his  command,  viz.  those  sitiuited. 
on  the  borders  of  the  three  states  of  Wyoming,  Montana,  and  Idaho.  The 
General's  printed  report  accompanies  the  letter,  as  well  as  a  map  published 
in  1881,  under  the  title  of  "Yellowstone  National  Park,  Big  Horn  Moun- 
tains, tfec.,**  on  which  the  Geneml  has  traced  an  outline  of  his  expedition. 
The  countries  traversed  by  M.  Sheridan  are,  it  appears,  of  incomparable  beauty ; 
they  will  shortly  be  made  accessible  to  tourists,  thanks  to  the  establishment 
of  a  railway  and  other  necessary  installations. — In  conclusion  a  lecture  was  given 
by  M.  Edmond  Fuchs,  chief  mining  engineer,  on  the  geological  mission  which  he 
has  just  accomplished  in  Indo-China  (Cochin  China,  Anam,  Tongking,  Cambodia). 
The  lecturer  commenced  with  a  rapid  description  of  the  journey  completed  by  him 
in  company  with  a  coadjutor,  M.  Saladin,  mining  engineer.  He  (M.  Fuchs)  was 
struck  with  the  contrast  between  the  peoples  of  Aden,  the  Kod  Sea,  &c.,  and  those 
of  Ceylon,  the  Indies,  and  Singapore;  the  former  are  rebellious  to  all  external 
influences,  while  the  latter,  who  are  agriculturists  and  not  shepherds,  lend  them- 
selves much  more  readily  to  the  influences  of  civilisation.  Ho  then  described  at 
great  length  the  geography  and  orography  of  Indo-China,  pointing  out  that  the 
inhabitants  are  concentrated  chiefly  in  the  three  great  valleys  of  the  Yellow  River, 
the  Mekong,  and  the  Menam,  whose  estuaries  are  growing  with  astonishing  rapidity. 
After  having  made  some  observations  indicating  the  age  of  Lower  Cochin  China, 
the  formation  of  which  does  not  date  back  much  before  the  Christian  era,  M.  Fuchs 
sketched,  from  an  ethnographical  ix)int  of  view,  the  two  great  races  of  ludo-China, 
viz.  the  Malays  and  the  Chinese.  He  then  passed  to  the  geology  of  the  peninsula, 
and  insisted  on  the  great  preponderance  there  of  carboniferous  formations.  He 
concluded  by  remarking  upon  the  coal  and  auriferous  basins  of  Tongking,  which  he 
has  visited,  and  expressed  the  hope  that  it  would  soon  be  possible  for  these  natural 
riches  to  be  utilised. 

March  16th,  1883  :  M.  Astoine  d'Abbadie  (of  the  Institute)  in  the  Chair. 

— The  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  wrote  that^  in  accordance  with  the  expressed 
desire  of  the  Society,  he  had  decided  that  a  geographical  section  should  be  formed,  and 
that  it  should  be  present  at  the  congress  of  the  learned  societies,  which  is  held 
annually  about  Easter-time  at  Sorbonne.  In  consequence  of  this  decision,  a  circular 
bad  been  sent  to  all  the  Presidents  of  the  French  Geographical  Societies  sununoning 
them  to  the  meeting  of  the  learned  societies,  which  is  to  take  place  in  the  course  of  a 
few  days.  At  the  same  time  measures  are  being  taken  by  the  Minister  to  ensure  the 
working  of  the  new  section. — ^The  Conunittee  charged,  at  Frankfort-on-the-Main, 
with  the  organisation  of  the  Third  Congress  of  German  Geographers,  which  is  to  be 
held  in  that  town  on  the  29th,  30th,  and  31st  of  this  month,  transmitted  the 
programme  of  the  intended  operations  of  this  assembly.  A  Geographical  Exhibition, 
which  will  remain  open  till  Uie  8th  April,  is  annexed  to  the  congress ;  and  strangers 
will  be  admitted  to  it  on  payment  of  a  small  fee.  The  first  speaker  will  be 
Lieutenant  Wissmann,  who  will  lecture  on  his  recent  journey  across  the  continent  of 
Africa. — M.  Ledoulx,  French  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  in  a  letter  dated  January  3rd, 
1883,  states  that  he  had  seen  Lieutenant  Wissmann  on  his  departure  from  Ainca 
and  had  held  conversation  with  him.    The  traveller  compared  a  great  part  of  the 


238 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


district  he  traversed  to  the  best-watered  and  most  fertile  countries  of  Eurcipe,  Ss' 
spoke  very  higbly  of  the  hospitality  which  he  had  generally  leceiA-ed.  He  h&t 
Bketched  a  portrait  of  the  king  Mirambo,  which  is  not  quite  in  accordance  with  tbe 
ideas  formed  concerning  this  monarch,  llie  French  consul  also  gives  ne^*s  of  M.  V. 
Giraxid,  midshipman^  who,  having  completed  his  preparalions,  has  at  last  been  able 
to  start,  on  the  10th  December,  1882,  from  Dar-es-Stilaam.  This  traveller  fortunately 
lias  not  encounterwl  the  difllcuUies  against  which  Captain  Cambier,  of  the  Belgiim 
Committee  of  the  International  African  Association,  had  to  stnjggle.  He  (Captain 
Cambier)  had  only  beeu  able  t<>  reiruit  L'50  muu  out  of  llie  40O  which  he  should  have 
conveyed  to  the  Congo,  M,  Ledoulx  seems  to  think  that  this  recruiting  will  become 
increasingly  difficult  in  the  future.  M.  Giraud  will  direct  hi.s  course  in  the  first 
instance  to  Lake  BangweoIo»  following,  by  preference,  the  route  recently  taken  by 
Mr.  Thomson  ;  this  route  traverses  Usagara,  and  just  terminates  between  the  Laked 
Nyassa  and  Tanganyika.  After  having  surveyed  tbe  course  of  the  Chamlwze,  which 
he  will  be  able  to  do  thanks  to  a  portaWe  folding  canoe  he  has  taken  with  him,  he 
will  proceed  to  Lake  Moero,  whence  he  will  endeavour  to  re.ach  the  Congo  by  what- 
ever route  he  may  find  most  practicable.  A  letter  from  him,  dated  December  24th, 
is  already  to  hand,  from  which  it  .ippears  that  his  journey  was  favourably  com- 
menced. From  the  consuFs  letter,  we  leara  further  that  Vbre  Etienne,  Superior  of 
the  Zanzibar  Jlissions,  stjirtcd  from  Bagiunoyo  on  tlse  27th  of  November  last,  to 
proceed  into  UKCgua  and  there  to  establisli  a  new  siatiou  between  M'rogoro  and 
Mahala ;  that  the  consul  had  been  on  a  French  despatch-boat  to  be  ])rpsent  at  hi* 
departure,  and  to  visit  at  the  same  time  the  farming  operations  of  the  mission  at 
Bagamoyo;  on  his  return^  Pero  Etienne  intende<l  to  visit  Oudoua,  and  devise  means 
for  founding  an  eslulilishmcmt  at  Kizaho,  which  would  connect  Maudera  witli 
Bagamoyo,  and  be  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  tribe  of  cannikils,  about  whom  there 
bad  been  some  question  in  the  former  letters  of  M,  Ledonlx. — The  managing  com- 
mittee of  the  Geographical  reunions  organised  by  raria  merchants  transmitted  the 
report  of  the  first  of  these  meetings,  when  a  paper  wns  read  by  M,  Millot,  com- 
panion of  M.  Jean  Dupuis,  who  explored  the  Ee<l  River  of  Tongking. — It  was 
announced  that  a  communication  had  been  received  from  General  Bovet  on  Cambodia 
it  propos  of  a  work  by  M.  Moiira,  late  representative  of  the  French  Protectorate  in 
tliat  country.  Also  one  from  M.  J,  Fieux,  civil  engineer  at  Bordeaux,  on  tbe  geology 
of  the  basin  of  the  Faleme,  and  of  a  part  of  the  Upper  Senegal. — Captain  Lagarde 
seat  a  manuscript  map  of  the  circle  of  Laghouat  (Algeria)  together  with  a  corrobo- 
rative note, — General  Venukoff  informed  the  St>cjety  of  the  departure  for  China  of 
M.  Potanin,  who  is  already  known  by  his  tmvela  in  North  JTongolia.  Also  that 
M.  Prejcvalsky  will  certainly  go  to  Tibet,  and  under  excellent  conditions,  for  he  will 
have  an  escort  of  15  Cossacks  and  a  subsidy  of  (120,000  francs)  4S00/,  That  the 
meteorological  observations  at  the  station  on  the  river  Lena  commenced  in  August 
1882,  but  that  there  had  been  some  delay  in  the  magnetical  observations  owing  to 
some  unexpected  accidents  with  the  instmments.  M.  Vcnukoff  also  announced  the 
publication  of  an  important  work  on  tisherv'  in  tlio  Boreal  ocean  on  tlie  north  of  the 
White  Sea.  The  fisherj'  is  much  more  plentiful  than  that  caused  by  the  south-west 
wind  on  the  western  coast  of  Scandinavia.  He  stated  moreover,  that  a  new  Chinese 
town  had  been  built  in  Dzungaria,  viz,  the  town  of  Dorboid.  It  has  been  fortified 
according  to  the  principles  of  modern  art,  and  the  Chinese  intend  to  make  it  an  important 
market.  This  town,  which  was  formerly  only  a  miserable  village,  is  built  near  the 
Russian  frontier  (Valley  of  Emile),  M.  Venukoff  then  addeirl,  viva  t?'>cc,  some  very 
curious  information,  which  he  hod  just  received  during  the  meeting,  on  the  relations 
between  Corea  and  Japan.  At  the  beginning  of  January  of  the  present  year,  the 
Corean  port  of  Ninsen  (western  coast  of  Corea)  was  opened  to  the  Jflpanese,  who 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  239 

immediately  established  there  a  commercial  colony,  and  regular  communicationa  have 
beea  made  by  the  Japanese  Steam  Navigation  Company,  '*  Mitsn-bichi."  To  recog- 
nise this  service,  the  Japanese  Government  has  sent  to  the  King  of  Gorea  425  Martini 
rifles,  together  with  50,000  cartridges,  and  in  addition  the  right  to  purchase  arms 
and  ammunition  in  Japanese  arsenals.  This  present  of  arms  was  accompanied  by  12 
sets  of  telegraphic  apparatus,  and  several  telephones  made  in  Japan  itself. 

Geographical  Society  of  Hlinich. — November  9  th,  1882. — Hen*  Richard 
Buchta  gave  a  lecture  on  his  recent  travels  in  the  region  of  the  Upper  Nile,  entitled 
"  The  Nile  and  Egypt,*'  dividing  his  subject  in  two  parts,  1,  the  course  of  the  Nile 
from  the  Victoria  Nyanza  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  2,  the  Copts. 

November  23rd. — Captain  Forster  read  a  paper  on  recent  events  on  the 

Congo,  and  the  rivalry  between  Stanley  and  De  Brazza. 

December  9tli. — Dr.  Max  Buchner,  the  West  African  traveller,  delivered  a 

viva  voce  address  on  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  negroes  of  the  Bantu  race, 
describing  their  state  of  civilisation,  their  mental  and  physical  characteristics,  Sx. 

December  2l8t. — Dr.  Penck  read  a  paper  "On  the  Sea-level."    He 

explained  that  the  accurate  measurements  of  an  arc  of  a  meridian  which  had  been 
successfully  carried  out  on  various  parts  of  the  earth's  surface  had  proved  that  the 
curvature  of  surface  of  our  planet  was  very,  diverse ;  it  was  so  on  the  land  surfietce, 
and  therefore  was  the  same  on  the  sea.  Further,  that  pendulum  observations  led  to 
the  conclusion  that  the  globe  was  not  an  ellipsoid  of  revolution.  It  results  in  foot 
from  the  law  of  gravitation  that  in  consequence  of  the  deviation  of  the  plumb  line 
owing  to  the  extremely  unequal  division  of  the  earth's  surface  into  land  and  water 
the  sea-level  cannot  have  the  mathematical  surface  of  an  ellipsoid  of  rotation, 
but  a  surface  of  its  own  special  kind — a  geoTd. — A  discussion  ensued  on  the  reading 
of  this  paper,  in  which  Professor  Bauer  and  Professor  Jolly,  besides  the  author, 
took  part.  Professor  Jolly  especially  pointed  out  that  the  distribution  of  matter  in 
the  interior  of  the  earth  would  have  a  considerable  influence  on  the  sea-surface. 

January  16th,  1883. — Herr  Geistbeck  read  a  paper  on  the  temperature 

of  the  Bavarian  lakes.  After  describing  his  methods  of  observation,  he  stated  that 
the  lakes  of  Bavaria  were  to  be  grouped  according  to  the  temperatures  of  their 
water  in  two  classes,  warm  and  cold.  The  warm  lakes  are  the  smaller  and 
shallower  waters;  the  cold  group  are  the  larger  lakes,  which,  however,  notwith- 
standing their  low  temperature  did  not  freeze. 

January  25th. — Major  von  Mechow,  the  eminent  explorer  of  the  southern 

tributaries  of  the  Congo,  delivered  an  address  on  his  recent  travels,  having  come  from 
Berlin  on  the  invitation  of  the  Munich  Society  for  the  purpose.  In  his  lecture  he 
dwelt  particularly  on  the  great  difficulties  the  traveller  had  to  contend  with  in  "West 
Africa,  difficulties  which  had  preventol  him  from  completing  his  project  of  explor- 
ing the  upper  course  of  the  Congo.  He  had,  however,  surveyed  a  portion  of  the 
great  southern  tributaries,  and  he  gave  a  vivid  description  of  the  falls  of  the  Quango 
which  he  had  visited. 

Februark'  8th. — Dr.   Oscar  Lenz,  of  Vienna,  gave  an  account  of  his 

journey  from  Morocco  to  Timbuctu.  In  describing  the  "Western  Sahara  through 
which  he  travelled,  he  said  it  was  a  waste  of  stone  and  sand,  and  he  entered  into  some 
detail  with  regard  to  the  causes  of  this  aridity,  which  he  maintained  was  compara- 
tively recent,  tlie  former  condition  of  the  region  having  been  one  of  much  greater 
moisture.  He  attributed  the  desiccation  to  the  felling  of  the  forests  on  the  Ahaggar 
mountain-range,  which  had  had  the  cflFect  of  drying  the  springs  of  the  rivers  which 
had  their  origin  in  those  mountains  and  flowed  through  the  plains. 


240  N£W  BOOKS. 

■  February  23rd.— The  new  Bureau  for  the  year  was  elected,  aa  followi : — 

Prestdentf  Dr.  von  Jolly ;  Vice-Presulenty  Dr.  Littlel:  Secretaries,  Dr.  von  Huller, 
Dr.  Albrecht  Penck ;  Treasurery  Herr  von  Kies ;  Curator^  Dr.  Moritz  Wagner ; 
Librarian^  Captain  B.  Forster;  Council,  Dr.  von  Haubenschmid,  Dr.  von  Giesebrecht, 
Dr.  von  Brinz,  Dr.  Bursian,  Captun  Ruith,  Dr.  F.  von  Liebig,  Colonel  von  Orff,  and 
Dr.  Bohmeder. — Previous  to  the  election.  Dr.  von  Jolly  gave  the  Meeting  an  accoant 
of  the  International  Polar  Stations  which  have  been  recently  established,  and  spoke 
of  their  high  scientific  utility  on  the  ground  that  the  thermal  and  magnetic 
constants  of  the  earth  can  only  be  gsdned  by  continuous  and-  simultaneous  ob«erva- 
tions,  especially  in  high  latitudes.  The  magnificent  seiies  of  photographs  of  scenery 
and  people  of  the  lake  regions  of  the  Upper  Xile,  taken  by  Herr  Buchta,  were 
exhibited  and  explained  to  the  Meeting. 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E.  C.  Eye,  nbrarian  r.g.s.) 

EUROPE. 

Berliouz,  E.-F.— Les  Atlantes.    Histoire  de  TAtlantis  et  de  I'Atlas  primitif,  on 
Introduction  k  PHistoire  de  TEurope.    Paris  (Leroux) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  170. 

Prof.  Berlioux's  prelimiuary  point  is  a  correction  of  what  he  states  to  be  the 
ordinarily  received  rendering  of  the  name  of  the  mythical  Platonian  continent, 
from  "  Atlantide"  to  "  Atlantis,"  which  is  the  nominative  of  the  word  employed 
by  the  Greek  philosopher; — a  correction  only  applicable  from  a  French  point  of 
view,  as  the  proper  name  "  Atlantis  "  has  always  been  in  use  by  English  writers. 
He  then  on  historical,  archseological,  and  geographical  grounds,  refers  the 
name  Atlantis  to  the  region  of  the  Atlas,  diagnosed  as  being  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Mediterranean,  opposite  Western  Europe,  on  a  direct  prolongation, 
of  the  Egyptian  coast,  at  the  head  of  the  shortest  route  to  the  New  World,  and 
.  forming  a  sort  of  separate  continent,  placed  on  the  limits  of  Europe  and  Africa, 
but  really  belonging  to  neither.  This  region  is,  as  it  were,  an  island  comprised 
between  the  Mediterranean  and  the  desert  from  north  to  south,  and  the  Gulf  of 
Cabes  and  Atlantic  Ocean  from  east  to  west,  and  presenting  an  immense  quadri* 
lateral  (a  point  which  is,  of  course,  familiar  to  students  of  physical  geography, 
and  is  briefly  put  amongst  others  in  the  late  Keith  Johnstotfs  *  Africa,*  p.  17,  in 
Stanford's  Compendium).  Comparing  the  text  of  the  different  ancient  historians 
who  record  events  or  supposed  myths  bearing  on  this  region,  with  the  traces  of 
identification  afforded  by  enduring  geographical  names,  Prof.  Berlioux  comes 
to  the  conclusiCn  that  suflBcieut  proof  remains  for  a  reconstruction  of  the  history 
of  this  new  Atlantis,  from  the  arrival  of  its  first  inhabitants  to  the  Phcenician 
invasion,  during  which  first  epoch  (and  not  that  of  the  subsequent  Tyrian  and 
Carthaginian  dynasties)  he  considers  the  culminating  point  of  North-Westem 
African  jwwer  to  have  been  reached.  The  primitive  people  he  considers  to 
have  been  Libyans,  who  originally  came  .from  Europe,  and  were  joined  by  the 
Getulians  (now  Berbers)  from  the  Sudan ;  and  the  development  of  their  history 
is  deemed  even  of  more  importance  for  a  correct  knowledge  of  early  Europe 
than  of  Africa  ;  for  though  the  author  does  not  dispute  the  Asiatic  origin  of  all 
races  of  mankind,  he  is  of  opinion  that  too  much  stress  has  been  laid  upon 
linguistic  tradition,  and  that  the  Aryan  language  (a  term  accepted  by  him  as 
without  geographical  significance)  was  originally  spoken  by  Europeans,  not  in 
a  country  like  that  of  the  Oxus,  isolated  in  the  interior  of  the  Asiatic  continent, 
but  in  a  western  region,  washed  by  many  seas.  It  is  precisely  from  this  cause, 
according  to  M.  Berlioux,  that  the  European  languages  have  such  varied 
expressions  indicating  marine  basins. 


NEW  BOOKS.  241 

Vorway. — ^Hundt  Korge  £ra  Tistedalen  til  Jakobsolven,  efter  Tegoinger  af  Ludv. 
SknuTii^tad  a  fl.  andre  Eunstoere,  med  Tekst  af  Dr.  Yngvar  Nielsen.  Erisfciania 
(P.  T.  Mailing):  [n.  d.]  4to.,  pp.  103,  illustrations.  (Williams  iSb  Nwgatei 
price  12«.) 

An  excellent  pictorial  representation  of  the  chief  features  of  Norwegian 
pbyfical  gec^raphy,  interspersed  with  a  few  views  of  buildings,  &c. 

ASIA. 
CrOW»  Arthur  H. — Highways  and  Byeways  in  Japan.    The  Experiences  of  two 
pedestrian  tourists.    London  (Sampson  Low  &  Go.)  :  1883,  xx)st  8vo.,  pp.  xvL  & 
307  [no  index],  maps,  frontispiece.    Price  ds.  6<2. 

Entirely  in  Central  Japan,  covering  (apart  from  the  usual  ports)  the  road 
from  Osaka  by  Lake  Biwa  to  Nikko,  returning  to  Tokio  and  ascending 
Fuji-San. 

AMEBIGA. 
Brocklellimt,  Thomas  Unett. — ^Mexico  To-day :  a  country  with  a  great  future, 
and  a  glance  at  the  prehistoric  remains  and  antiquities  of  the  Montezumas. 
London  (J.  Murray) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  &  259   [no  index],  map,  coloured 
plates  and  illustrations.    Price  2l8. 

Chiefly  extracts  from  a  journal  kept  during  a  residence  of  sevien  months  in 
the  capital,  with  a'  few  notes  of  excursions  to  neighbouring  cities  and  places  of 
interest ;  including  an  account  of  the  author's  ascent  of  Popocatapetl,  with  a 
reprint  from  the  New  York  Herald  of  another  account  by  Ober,  an  American 
ornithologist.  A  general  chapter  on  Mexico  is  given,  and  special  attention  paid 
to  the  antiquities,  with  various  original  drawings.  The  extremes  of  archaeology 
and  modem  life  are  indeed  the  chief  objects  of  the  work,  which  contains  little 
geographical  matter.  A  map  on  a  small  scale  shows  the  projected  railroads, 
and  sections  are  given  of  the  whole  republic  and  of  the  lakes,  in  the  valley  of 
Mexico. 

Hatton,  Joseph  and  Harvey  [Bev.]  M. — Newfoundland:  the  oldest  British 
Colony,  its  History,  its  present  Condition,  and  its  prospects  in  the  future.  London 
(Chapman  &  Hall) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xxiv.  and  489,  illustrations.    Price  18a. 

Part  II.  is  devoted  to  a  compilation  on  the  physical  geography  and  topo- 
graphy, with  discussion  of  the  geology,  climate,  fauna,  flora,  and  aborigines. 
The  economical  aspects  of  the  gec^raphy  of  Newfoundland  are  also  commented 
upon  in  Part  IV.,  which  treats  of  the  agricultural  resources  of  the  island.  Some 
of  the  illustrations  deserve  mention,  being  from  photographs  and  sketches  made 
expressly  for  the  work. 

Hellwald,  Friedrich  von. — ^America  in  Wort  und  Bild.  Eine  Schilderung  der 
Vereinigten  Staaten.  Leipzig  (Schmidt  &  Giinther):  1883,  4to.,  illustrations. 
(  Wmiama  &  Norgate.) 

The  commencement  of  a  largely  illustrated  work  to  be  completed  in  some 
50  numbers  at  Is.  etch,  and  for  the  publication  of  which  the  chief  motive 
appears  to  be  afforded  by  the  intimate  connection  of  Germany  with  the  United 
States  from  an  emigrational  point  of  view. 

ARCTIC. 
Melville,  Geo.  W. — Report  of  Chief  Engineer  (Jeo.  W.  Melville  in  connection 
with  the  Jeannette  Expedition.     Washington   (Government  Printing  Office): 
1882,  8vo.,  pp.  19,  map. 

This  is  the  official  account  of  the  movements  of  the  whaleboat  in  command 
of  Mr.  Melville,  with  Messrs.  Danenhower  and  Newcomb  and  a  crew  of  seven, 
after  separation  from  the  late  Lieut.  G.  W.  De  Long,  and  of  the  subsequent 
search  for  the  missing  members  of  the  recent  American  Arctic  Expedition, 
of  which  a  preliminary  notice  was  given  in  our  *  Proceedings '  for  last  May, 


NEW  BOOKS. 

p.  28',),  The  three  Ixiats  containing  the  shipwrecked  crew  of  the  Jeannttte  left 
Simonuiiki  Island  (written  "Simoiitki"  in  the  Hrat  account),  some  00  miles 
N^E.  of  the  Lena  delta,  on  the  12tb  September,  1881,  with  the  object  of 
Teaching  Cape  Barkin,  but  were  separated  by  stress  of  weather  on  the  very 
firist  day.  (hi  the  14tli,  Mr.  MeKnlle  si  ruck  the  coast,  and  workeii  aloog 
it  eajtward,  until  on  the  IGth  he  arrived  at  one  of  the  eastern  arms  of 
the  Lena  delta,  which  he  attempted  to  ascend,  succeeding  in  meeting  with 
natives  on  the  19th.  Not  being  able  to  get  pilots  to  Belua,  the  nearest  Uussiati 
settlement,  on  the  main  strcjim  of  tlie  Lena,  and  being  much  distressed  by  frost- 
bites and  Ibul  weather,  a  camp  was  made  on  the  inhabited  island  of  Janiavae- 
loch  (or  Jamavalach,  about  Tli'*  N.  lat.,  130°  K.  long.),  where  the  jiarty  remained, 
dependent  on  supplies  from  the  natives,  until  on  16th  October  an  exile  naraed 
Koosma  ^uidertook  to  deliver  despatches  at  the  Rnsaian  post  above  refcrred  to. 
He  returned  on  the  29th,  with  a  small  supply  of  food,  having  on  his  way  btick 
met  with  two  of  the  crew  of  the  first  cutter  endeavouring  to  procure  liid  for 
De  Long  and  his  companious  who  wero  in  a  starving  condition  to  the  uorth- 
Tvards  (as  it  turned  out,  133  miles  distant).  Mr.  Jfelville  at  once  started  to 
intercept  the  llnssian  commandant  who  was  following  Koosma  to  succour  hi« 
r>wn  party,  in  tlie  hope  of  helping  De  Long,  but  unfortunately  crossed  him  oa 
the  road  in  the  mountains.  Arrived  at  Helun,  Mr.  Molvillo,  having  seen  to  the 
security  of  his  men,  started  as  soon  as  ]x>8sible  (5th  Xovember),  with  two  dog 
teams  and  two  natives  in  search  of  his  commander,  travelling  northwards  dowii 
the  main  Lena  bank,  and  arriving  at  North  Belun  on  the  Keeluch  branch  close 
to  the  mouth  at  midnight  on  November  11th,  Hero  he  found  traces  of  Do 
Lon?,  and  though  single-handed,  badly  frozen,  and  put  to  the  most  extreme 
straits  for  want  of  provisions,  heroically  followed  up  every  indication,  travelling 
long  distances  in  the  severest  weather,  only  to  be  compelled  to  return  to  Belun 
on  November  -7th,  after  an  absence  of  23  days,  with  the  conviction  that  his  late 
companions  must  have  ]>eri8hod.  Search  for  their  remains  not  being  possible 
until  the  following  spring,  he  proceeded  to  Yakutsk,  and  having  seen  to  the 
safe  return  of  his  own  men,  returned  to  Belun  on  February  17th,  1882.  After 
uome  time  sjxnt  in  making  the  necessary  arrangements  and  storing  provisions, 
Mr.  Melville  on  March  fitliBtarted  once  more  northwards  with  Bartlett,  oncof  his 
crew,  and  Ninderman,  one  of  the  survivors  of  De  Long's  party,  and  commenced 
a  series  of  searches  from  Cass  OAtta  (or  Cath  Carta,  situate  a  little  above 
the  scpiiration  of  tho  Kfcluch  .ind  Ofsotok  mouths  of  the  Lena  delta)  until  on 
March  USrd  he  found  the  dead  btidies  of  De  Long  and  two  of  his  crew.  By  the 
•27th  he  had  recovered  all  except  two,  and  by  April  7th  hiui  buried  them  at 
Kooboloh  (or  Koohalach). 

An  unsuccessful  search  for  the  remaining  boat,  the  second  cutter,  oommanded 
by  Lieutenant  Chipp,  was  then  commcnc^  and  continued  westward  along  the 
cnaijt  to  the  mnuth  of  tlie  (Henek,  along  the  north  coast,  and  eastward  towards 
the  Jana.  Yalcubk  was  reached  on  June  8th,  Irkutsk  on  July  5th,  and  Now 
York  on  September  loth. 

IliG  different  localities  referre<i  to  are  shown,  with  the  various  routes  and 
incidental  notes  on  distances,  &c.,  on  a  map  of  the  entire  Lena  delta  apj)ended 
to  the  Keport,  reaching  to  the  mouth  of  the  Olenek, 


GENERAL. 

Moilll,  H. — Grundziigo  der  Meteorologie.  Die  Lehre  von  Wind  und  Wetter,  nach 
deu  ueuesten  Forschungen  gemeinfasslich  dargestdlt.  Berlin  (Beiraer):  1883, 
8vo.,  pp.  xii,  and  359,  charts  and  woodcuts.     {Ihihit :  price  6s.) 

Originally  published  in  1875,  with  a  second  edition  in  1879,  Professor  Mohn*a 
treatise  is  now  so  tirmly  established  as  a  text-bmik  on  the  Continent,  that  a 
third  edition  haa  become  neceasarj'.  This  is  increased  by  some  50  p.iges,  and 
contains  various  additions  bearing  on  the  ge(.'graphical  aspects  of  meteorology, 
with  many  corrections  in  text  and  maps. 

Studi  Biografici  e  Biblio^aflci  sulla  Storia  della  Geografia  in  Italia, 
pubblicati  in  occasionc  dtd  IIP  Consrcsso  Geografico  Interuazionalo.     Wdume  I. 


KEW  MAPS.  243 

Kografia  dei  Viaggiatori  Italiani  colla  Bibliografia  delle  loro  Opere,  per  P.  Amat 
di  S.  Filippo.  Edizione  Seconda.  Boma:  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  xi.  and  743,  maps. 
Volume  II.  Mappamondi,  Carte  Nautiche,  Portolani  ed  altri  Monument!  Carto- 
grafici  specialmente  Italiani  dei  Secoli  xiii. — xvi.,  per  G.  Uzielli  e  P.  Amat  di 
8.  Filippo.  Edizione  Seconda.  Roma :  1882,  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  327,  Price  8«. 
each  vol. 

The  first  edition  of  this  work  was  published  (as  one  volume)  at  Borne,  in 
1875,  by  a  ministerial  deputation  appointed  under  the  auspices  of  the  Italian 
Gec^rapbical  Society,  as  a  contribution  to  the  second  International  Geographical 
Congress  in  Paris,  illustrating  Italian  work.  An  opportunity  of  correcting  and 
adding  to  this  necessarily  hurried  preliminary  sketch  was  afforded  by  the  third 
congress  in  1880 ;  and  the  Marquis  di  S.  Filippo  and  Professor  Uzielli  have  once 
more  undertaken  the  task,  adding,  amongst  other  things,  some  380  biographical 
notices  of  Italian  travellers.  Three  fresh  world-maps  are  also  given  by  Professor 
Giuseppe  Pennesi  di  Bieti,  showing  the  routes  of  the  principal  Italian  travellers 
in  the  13th-15th  centuries,  from  Columbus  to  1600,  and  in  the  17th-19th 
centuries,  the  last  containing  a  special  inset  of  N.E.  Africa,  with  the  various 
routes  of  Beltrame,  De  Bono,  Miani,  Piaggia,  Antinori,  the  recent  Italian  Expe- 
dition, Giulietti,  Gcssi,  Matteucci,  Bianchi,  and  Massari.  The  list  of  maps,  &c., 
forming  the  second  volume  (Part  2  of  the  one  volume  of  the  first  edition)  has 
also  been  largely  increased. 

The  present  edition  is  published  by  the  Italian  Geographical  Society,  and 
the  Library  is  indebted  to  Professor  G,  Dalla  Vedova  for  a  copy  of  it. 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  r.o.s.) 

europp:. 
ordnance  survey  maps. 

Publications  issued  from  1st  to  30th  Xovember,  1882. 
6-incll — County  Maps : — 

England  :  Berks,  sheets  27,  34,  price  2«.  6d.  each.  Sheet  33,  price  2s.  Berks, 
sheet  24  with  Buckingham  sheet  52,  j)rJce  2a.  Gd.  Hertford,  sheet  42  made 
a  full  sheet  with  Middlesex  sheet  3  and  Essex  sheets  49,  50,  price  2«.  6</. 
Hertford,  sheet  17,  price  2«.  Wilts,  sheet  43  with  Berks  sheet  41a  and 
Hants  sheet  7,  price  2s.  Gd.  Derby  (quarter  sheets),  C  N.E.,  6  N.W.,  6  S.E. 
6  S.W.;  8  N.W.,  8  N.E.,  8  S.E.  (these  complete  sheet  8);  14  X.E.,  14  S.E. 
(these  complete  sheet  14),  price  1».  each. 
Ireland  :  Cavan  (revised),  sheets  33,  37,  38,  price  2s.  Qd.  each ;  sheet  40, 
price  2s.  Longford  (revised),  sheet  5,  price  2s.  6d.  Sheets  2,  3,  price  2s. 
each. 

25>mcll — Parish  Maps  r-* 

England— Bedford :  Hockliffe,  sheets  XXVIII.— 7;  2s.  6d.   XXIX.— 9;  3s. 

XXVIII 3,  4,  12;    3s.  Sd.  each.     XXVIII.— 8;   XXIX.— 5 ;  4s.  each. 

Area  Book  Is.  Holwell.  sheets  XXVII.— 10  ;  3s.  XXVI.- 8;  XXVII.— 
o,  9;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXV  1.-12;  4s.  Area  Book  Is.  Pulloxhill,  sheets 
XXV.— 12 ;  3s.  XXVI.— 5,  9  ;  3s.  6(7.  each.  XXV.— 4,  8 ;  XXVI.— 1 ; 
4s.  each.  Tilsworth,  sheets  XXIX.— 9;  3s.  XXVIIl.— 12 ;  XXIX.— 
13;  3s.  6d.  each.  XXVIH.- 16 ;  XXIX.— 5;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is. 
CornwaU:  Fowey,  sheets  LI.— 16;  3s.  LL— 4,  8,  II,  12;  3s.  6d.  each. 
LI.— 3,  7  ;  LII.— 1 ;  4s.  each.  LII.— 5 ;  5s.  LII.— 9  ;  5s.  6d.  Area  Book  Is. 
Lanreath,  sheets  XXXV.— 14  ;  XLIIL— 2,  3,  7,  8,  14,  15 ;  3s.  each. 
XXXV.— 15, 16 ;  XLIIL— 4,  6, 10, 11 ;  LII.— 2 ;  3s.  0^.  each.    Area  Book 


244  NEW  MAPS. 

1».  Gd.  Lansalloa,  sheets  LIL— 3, 6 ;  3«.  each.  LIL— 2.  7,  8, 10, 11 ;  3fc  6dL 
each.  LII.--12;4«.6c?.  AreaBookls.  Lanteglos,  sheets  LIL— 6;' 3».  LL— 12; 
LIL— 2,  7, 10;  3«.  6c?.  each.  LIL— 1 ;  4a.  LIL— 5  ;  58.  LIL— 9;  5».  6d, 
Area  Book  Is.  Morval,  sheets  XLIV.— 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11. 12, 3«.  6d.  each.  XLIV. 
—10, 14 ;  4«.  each.  Area  Book  1«.  6d.  St.  Austell,  Area  Book  4».  St  Blazey, 
Area  Book  Is.  St  Keyno,  sheets  XLIV.— 1 ;  3«.  XXXVL— 13, 14;  XLIV. 
—2, 5, 6  ;  3«.  Qd.  each.  Area  Book  la.  St  Pinnock,  sheets  XXXV. — 10, 14 ; 
XLIIL— 3;  3a.  each.  XXXV.— 6,  7, 11, 12, 15, 16 ;  XXXVL— 13;  XLIIL 
—4 ;  3a.  6d  each.  St  Sampson,  sheets  XLIL— 11, 12, 15, 16 ;  XLIIL— 13 ; 
LL— 4 ;  3a.  Bd.  each.  LIL— 1 ;  4a.  Ai-ea  Book  la.  St  Veep,  sheets  XLIIL— 
14 ;  LIL— 6;  3a.  each.  XLHL- 5, 6, 10, 13 ;  LIL— 2 ;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XLIIL— 
9 ;  Ln.— 1 ;  4a.  each.  Area  Elook  la.  Gd.  St  Winnow,  sheets  XXXIV.— 
12,  16;  XXXV.— 9;  XLIIL— I;  3a.  each.  XXXIV.— 11, 15 ;  XXXV.— 
13;  XLIL— 4,  12,  16;  XLIIL— 5,  13;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XLUL— 9;  4*. 
XLIL— 8 ;  4a.  Gd.  Area  Book  2a.  Talland,  sheets  LIL— 4 ;  3a.  LIL— 8 ; 
LIIL— 1,  9.  10 ;  3a.  6(Z.  each.  LIIL— 5,  6  ;  4a.  each.  LIL— 12  ;  4t.  Bd, 
LIIL— 2 ;  5».  Gd.  Area  Book  la.  Gd.  Tywardreath,  Area  Book  U  6d. 
Derby:  Allestree,  sheets  XLIX.— 4,  8;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XLV.— 13;  4t. 
L.— 6;  4a.  Gd.  L.— 1 ;  5a.  Gd.  Breadsall,  sheets  XLV.— 9,  10,  14;  L.— 
2,  6 ;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XLV.— 13 ;  4s.  L.— 5 ;  4a.  Gd.  L.— 1 ;  5«.  Gd.  Area 
Book  la.  Elvaston,  sheets  LV.— 6, 11 ;  LVL— 5 ;  3a.  Gd.  each.  LV.— 8, 
7,  8,  10,  12;  4a.  each.  LV.— 4;  5a.  L.— 15;  5s.  Gd.  Area  Book  la. 
EtwaU,  Area  Book  la.  Gd.  Quamdon,  sheets  XLIV.— 16 ;  XLIX.— 4,  8 ; 
3a.  Gd.  each.  Gloucester :  Tormarton,  sheets  LXXIIL— 8 ;  LXXIV.— 1 ; 
2a.  Gd.each.  LXIX.— 16;  LXXIIL- 3,  7;  3s.  each.  LXIX.— 12;  LXX. 
—9, 13  ;  LXXIIL— 4 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  la.  Lancaster:  Presoot 
(Part  of)  St  Helens,  sheets  CI.— 14;  38.  6rf.  C— 16;  CVIL— 8;  CVIII. 
—2,  5,  6;  4s.  each.  CVIL— 4;  6a.  Gd.  CL— 13;  CVIII.— 1;  11«.  Bd. 
each.  Monmoutll :  Cwmcarvau,  sheets  XX. — 3 ;  3«.  XIV. — 6,  7, 10,  11, 
14,  15,  16  ;  XX.— 2;,  3a.  Gd.  each.  Ifton,  Area  Book  la.  Llanbadock, 
sheets  XIX.— 13,  14;  3s.  each.  XIX.— 10;  XXIV.— 1,  2,  5,  6,  7; 
3s.  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 3 ;  4s.  XIX.— 15  ;  5s.  Llanddewi-F4ch,  sheets 
XXIIL— 8,  16;  XXIV.— 5,  9,  13;  3a.  Gd.  each.  XXIII.— 12;  4s. 
Llandegveth,  sheets  XXIV.— 5.  9,  13,  14;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 10; 
48.  Llanfrechfa,  sheets  XXIIL— 6,  10,  14;  XXVIIL— 8;  3a.  each. 
XXIIL— 16;  XXIV.— 13;  XXIX.— 5;  48.  each.  XXIIL— 7,  11,  15; 
4s.  Gd.  each.  XXIIL— 3;  6a.  Llangibby,  sheets  XXIIL— 8;  XXIV.— 1, 
2,  5,  6,  7,  9, 13. 14, 15 ;  38.  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 10,  11 ;  4a.  each.  Llanhen- 
nock,  sheets  XXIV.— 14 ;  XXIX.— 1,  2,  3,  6,  7 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXIX.— 6 ; 
4s.  Llantrissent,  sheets  XXIX.— 4 ;  28.  Gd.  XXIV.— 4,  16;  3a.  each. 
XXIV.— 7,8,  12,  15;  XXIX.-3;  3a.  6deach.  XXIV—ll;  48.  Llan- 
vaches,  sheets  XXV.— 13 ;  XXIX— 4  ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 16 ;  XXX. 
—1,  6,  10;  3s.  each.  XXIX.— 8;  XXX.— 5,  9;  3a.  Gd.  each.  Llanvair 
Discoed  &  Do.  (Det,  Nos.  2  to  6),  sheets  XXV.— 13 ;  2a.  Gd.  XXX.— 1,  6, 
7,  10;  3a.  each.  XXV.— 14;  XXX.— 2,  5;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Llanvihangel- 
Pontymoil,  sheets  XVIII.— 11 ;  Ss.  XVIIL— 12,  16  ;  XXIIL— 4,  8 ;  3a.  6d. 
each.  XVIIL— 15  ;  5s.  XXIIL— 3;  6s.  Newchurch,  sheets  XXV.— 13  ; 
XXIX.— 4 ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  XXIV.— 16  ;  XXV.— 3,  6.  7,  8,  11,  12 ;  8a.  each. 
XXIV.— 12 ;  XXV.— 4,  5,  9,  10,  12 ;  XXVI.— 5  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Parc-Grace- 
Dieu,  sheets  XIV.— 2;  Ss.  VIII.— 13,  14;  XIV.— 1 ;  Ss.  Gd.  each. 
PenrhOs,  sheets  VII.— 15,  16 ;  XIII.— 3,  4,  7,  8 ;  XIV.— 1 ;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
Pen-y-clawdd,  sheets  XIV.— 9, 10, 13,  14  ;  XX.— 1,  2  ;  3s.  6i.each.  Pant- 
T6g,  sheets  XXIIL— 6  ;  3a.  XXIIL— 4,  8;  XXIV.-l,  5  ;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
XXIIL— 2,  12;  4s.  each.  XXIIL— 7,  11;  4s.  Gd.  each.  XXIIL— 3;  6a. 
Area  Book  Is.  Penhow,  sheets  XXIX.— 4 ;  28.  Gd.  XXIV.— 16  ;  XXIX. 
—3 ;  3s.  each.  XXIX.— 8, 12 ;  XXX.— 5, 9 ;  38.  Gd.  each.  Koggiett,  sheets 
XXX— 10;  3s.  XXX.— 14;  XXXV.— 3,  6;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXXV.— 2; 
4s.  Area  Book  Is.  St.  Bride's  Netherwent  sheets  XXX.— 6, 10 ;  38.  each. 
XXIX.— 16 ;  XXX.— 5,  9  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  XXXIV.— 4 ;  4s.  Gd.  Tredunnock, 
sheets  XXIV.— 14,  15 ;  XXIX.— 2,  3,  6,  7 ;  35.  Gd.  each.  Undy,  sheets 
XXX.— 10, 13 ;  3s.  each.  XXX.— 9, 14 ;  XXXV.— 6  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.   XXXV. 


MEW  MAPS.  245 

—2,  5 ;  4».  each.  XXXV.— 1 ;  5».  Gd.  Area  Book  Is.  Horfolk :  Anninghall, 

sheets  LXXV.— 4,  7,  8 ;  3«.  6rf.  each.    LXXV.— 3 ;   4a.    Area  Book  1». 

Ashby,  sheets  LXXVI. — 11,  15 ;  As.  each.    Area  Book  Is.    Bixley,  sheets 

LXXV.— 4,  8;  3s.  Gd.  each.    LXXV.— 12;  4«.    Area  Book  U    Bradeston 

and  Do.  (Det.,  Nos.  1,  2,  and  3),  sheets  LXIV.— 12 ;  3a.  6d.    LXIV.— 

11,   16;    4».  each.      LXXVL— 3;    4a.  6d.      LXIV.— 15;    5a.  6d.     Area 

Book  la.     Bramerton,  sheets  LXXVI.— 1,  5,  6, 10;  3a.  6rf.  each.    LXXVI. 

—2,  9;    4a.  each.      Area    Book    la.      Brundall    and   Do.   (Det.,  Nos.    1 

and  2),  sheets  LXIV.— 10 ;  3a.  6d.    LXIV.— 11,  14 :  4a.  each.    LXXVI.— 

3;  4a.  6d.    LXIV.— 15;   5a.  6d.    Area  Book  la.    Caister  St.  Edmunds, 

sheets  LXXV.— 7,   8,  11;  3a.  6d.  each.    LXXV.— 12;  4a.    Area  Book 

la.    Claxton,  sheets  LXXVI.— 7,  8,  11,  12,  15 ;  4a.  each.  Area  Book  la. 

Framingham  Earl,  sheets  LXXV.— 8;    LXXVL— 5,  13;    38.    Gd.  each. 

LXXV.— 12;  LXXVL— 9;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la.    Framingham  Pigot, 

sheets  LXXV.— 8 ;  LXXVI.— 5;  3a.  Cd.  each.    LXXV.— 12;  LXXVI.— 

9 ;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la.    Great  Plumstead,  sheets  LXIV.— 1,  5,  6,  9. 10 ; 

3a.  Gd.  each.    LXIV.— 14 ;  4a.    Area  Book  la.    Hemblington,  sheets  LXIV. 

—3;  3a.    LXIV.— 8;  3a.  Gd.    LXIV.— 4,  7;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la. 

HUlington,  sheets  LXXVI.— 10 ;  3a.  Gd.     LXXVL— 7, 11, 14, 15 ;  4a.  each. 

Area  Book  la.    Holverton,  sheets  LXXVL— 10 ;    3a.  Gd.    LXXVL— 14 ; 

4a.    Area  Book  la.     Hoveton  St.  John,  sheets  LII. — 2,  3;  3s.  Gd.  each. 

LII.— 8,  10;  4«.each.  LII.— 6,  7, 11 ;  4a.  6c/.  each.  Area  Book  U  Intwood, 

sheets  LXXV.— 5,  9;  3a.  Gd.  each.    LXXV.— 6,  10;  4a.  each.    Area  Book 

la.    Keswick,  sheets  LXXV.— 7;  3a.  Gd.    LXXV.— 2,  6,  10;  4».  each. 

Area  Book  la.    Kirby  Bedon,  sheets  LXXV.— 4,  8;  LXXVL— 1,  5,  6; 

3a.  Gd.  each.    LXIV.— 13;  LXXVI.— 2;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la.    Little 

Plumstead,  sheets  LXIV.— 3 ;  3a.    LXIV.— 1,  2,  5,  6,  10 ;   3a.  Gd.  each. 

LXIV.— 7 ;  4a.    Area  Book  la.    Markshall,  sheets  LXXV.— 7, 11;  3a.  Gd. 

each.    LXXV.— 3,  6,  10;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la.    Mulbarton,  sheets 

LXXV.— 9, 14;  LXXXVIL— 1,  2;  3a.6d.  each.  LXXV.— 10, 13;  4a.  each. 

Area  Book  la.    llackheath,  sheets  LII.— 9, 13, 14 ;  LXIV.— 1,  2,  5;  3a.  Gd. 

each.    Area  Book  la.    Rockland  St.  Mar\',  sheets  LXXVL— 6, 10  ;  3a.  Gd. 

each.    LXXVL— 7,  8, 11 ;  4a.  each.    LXXVL— 3  ;  4a.  Gd.    Area  Book  la. 

Salhouse,  sheets  LII.— 9, 13, 14, 15 ;  LXIV.— 2;  3a.  6rf.  each.     LII.— 10; 

4a.    LII.— 11 ;  4a.  Gd.    Area  Book  la.    Stoke  Holy  Cross,  sheets  LXXV.— 

16;  3a.    LXXV.— 10;    LXXXVIL-4;  2a.  Gd.  eacli.     LXXV.— 12,    15; 

LXXXVIL— 3;    4a.    each.     Strumpshaw,    sheets    LXXVL— 4;    3a.    Gd. 

LXIV.— 16  ;   LXXVL— 7,  8;  4a.  each.      LXXVL— 3  ;  48.  Gd.      LXIV.— 

15;    68.  Gd.    Area  Book  la.      Surlingham,  sheets  LXXVL— 6;    3s.  Gd. 

LXIV.— 14;  LXXVL— 2,  7;  4a.  each.    LXXVL— 3;  4a.  Gd.    LXIV.— 15; 

5$.  Gd.      Area  Book  la.      Swainsthorpe,  sheets  LXXV.— 14 ;  LXXXVIL— 

2  ;    3«.  Gd.  each.    Area  Book  l8.     Swardeston,  sheets  LXXV. — 9,  14 ; 

38.  Gd.  each.    LXXV.— 6,  10;  4a.  eaclu    Area  Book  la.    Witton,  sheets 

LXIV.— G,  10 ;  38.  Gd.  each.     LXIV.— 7, 11, 14 ;  .4a.  each.     Area  Book  la. 

Woodbastwick,  sheets  LXIV.— 3;  3s.     LIL— 14,  16;  LXIV.— 2  ;  3a.  Gd. 

each.    LII.— 8, 16;  4a.  each.      LIL— 7, 11 ;    4a.  6(/.  each.      LIL— 12;  5a. 

Area  Book  la.    Wroxham,  sheets  LIL— 2,  9 ;  3a.  Gd.  each.     LIL— 5,  10 ; 

48.  each.    LIL — 6,  7,  11 ;  4a.  Gd.  each.     Area  Book  la.     Yelverton,  sheets 

LXXVL— 10, 13  ;  38.  Gd.  each.    LXXVL— 9, 14 ;  4a.  each.    Area  Book  la. 

Oxford:    Banbury.      Area  Book   la.     Shropslure:    Alberbury,    sheets 

XXXIL— 8;    3a.     XXXIL— 4,  12;    XXXUf— 1,  2,  5,  6,  7,  9, 10, 11,  13, 

14;    3a.  6rf.  each.      XXXIIL— 15:  4a.     Area  Book  la.      Albrighton  and 

Do.  (Det.),  sheets  LIL— 8 ;  LIIa.— 1 ;  2a.  Gd.  each.     XLV.— 5, 13 ;  LIL— 

4 ;  3a.  each.    XLIV.— 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 ;  XLV.— 9 ;  LIL— 3 ;  3a.  Gd.  each. 

XLIV.— 16;    4a.      Area  Book  la.      Atcham,  sheets  XXXIV.— 12,  16; 

XXXV.— 10, 13, 14, 15 ;  XLIL— 2,  6 ;  3a.  6J.  each.  XXXIV.— 15 ;  XXXV. 

—9 ;  XLIL— 1 ;  48.  each.    XXXV.— 11 ;  Sa.    Boningale,  sheets  LILa.— 1 ; 

2s.  Gd.    XLV.— 13;    LIL— 4;    3a.  each.    XLIV.— 15  ;    LIL— 3 ;    3a.  6rf. 

each.    XLIV.— 16;  4a.     Boscobel,  sheets  XLV.— 1;  2a.  6d.    XLV.— 5;  3a. 

XLIV.— i,  8 ;  Zs.Gd.  each.    Area  Book  la.    Cardeston  and  Do.  (Det,,  Nos. 

1  and  2),  sheets  XXXIL— 8;  3a.     XXVIL— 13  ;  XXXIL-4,  12,  16; 


246  NEW  MAPS. 

XXXIIL— 1,  5,  G,  9,  10,  11,  13,  14;  3«.  6rf.  each.  XXVI.— 16; 
XXXIIL— 15;  48.  each.  Great  Ness,  sheets  XXVI.— 8;  XXVIL—l; 
2s.  6d.  each.  XXVI.— 12 ;  XXVII.— 5,  6,  9,  11, 13, 14, 15 ;  Ss,  Qd,  each. 
XXVII.— 2,  7, 10;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  ed,  Donington,  sheets  XLV. 
—5  ;  3«.  XLIV.— 8. 10,  11, 12, 15 ;  XLV.— 9 ;  3s.  6d.  each.  XLIV.— 7; 
4s.  Area  Book  Is.  Lilleshall.  sheets  XXX.— 15 ;  XXXI.— 13 ;  XXXVn.— 
1,5 ;  3s.  Grf.each.  XXX.— 14.  16  ;  XXXVI.— 3,  8, 12;  48.  each.  XXXVL 
—4;  4s.  6d.  XXXVL— 7;  5s.  XXXVI.— 11 ;  6s.  6d.  Area  Book  2a. 
Melverley,  sheets  XXVI.— 15  ;  3s.  XXVI.-ll,  12  ;  XXXIL— 4;  3*.  6(L 
each.  XXVI.— 16 ;  4s.  Area  Book  Is.  Meole  Brace  and  Do.  (Det.) 
sheets  XLI.-6;  3s.  XXXIIL— 16  ;  XXXIV.— 9,  13;  3s.  Gd,  each. 
XXXIV.— 14,  15;  XL.— 4;  XLL— 1,  2;  4s.  each.  XXXIV.— 10; 
8s.  Area  Book  Is.  Ryton,  sheets  XLIV.— 10,  13,  14,  15;  LIL— 1,  2; 
3s.  6d,  each.  St.  Julian,  sheets  XXXIV.— 2,  3,  9;  XLL— 3;  3s.  6rf. 
each.  XXXIV.— 5,  14,  15;  XLL— 2;  4s.  each.  XXXIV.— 6  ;  4s.  6rf. 
XXXIV.— 7;  6s.  6rf.  XXXIV.— 10,  11;  8s.  each.  Shifnal,  sheets 
XXXVII.— 14;  XLIIL— 4;  3s.  each.  XXXVL— 16;  XXXVII.— 9,  10, 
13,  15;  XLIIL— 8.  12;  XLIV.— 2,  6,  9,  10,  11,  13,  14;  3s.  6d.  each. 
XXXVL— 12 ;  XLIV.— 3,  5 ;  4s.  each.  XLIV.— 1 ;  6s.  XLIIL— 3  ; 
5s.  ed.  XXXVL— 11 ;  6s.  6rf.  XXXVL— 15 ;  8s.  Area  Book  2s.  dd. 
Tong,  sheets  XXXVII.— 11,  16;  XXXVIIL— 13;  XLV.— 1;  2b.  6d.  each. 
XXXVIL— 14;  3s.  XXXVIL— 10,15;  XLIV.— 2,4,6,8,10, 11;  3s. 6d. each. 
XLIV.— 3, 7 ;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Wellington,  sheets  XLIL— 4,  8;  3s. 
each.  XXXV.— 10, 11, 15, 16;  XXXVL— 13;  XLIL— 3;  XLIIL— 1;  3s. 6d. 
each.  XXX.— 14 ;  XXXV.— 7,  8,  12;  XXXVL— 1,  2,  3,  5,  6 ;  XLIU.— 
2;  4s.  each.  XXXVL— 14 ;  4s.  6rf.  XXXVL— 7;  6s.  XLIIL— 3,6;  5s.  6rf. 
each.  XXXVL— 10, 11;  6s.  6(/.  each.  XXXVL— 9 ;  7s.  6rf.  XXXVL— 
15;  8s.  Area  Book  3s.  Wroxeter,  sheets  XLIL — 4,  6,  8;  3s.  each. — 
XXXV.— 10, 13,  14, 15  ;  XLIL— 2,  3,  5.  7, 11 ;  3s.  6d.  each.  XXXV.— 9 ; 
XLIL— 1,  9,  10 ;  4s.  each.  Suffolk :  Belstead,  Area  Book  Is.  Bentley, 
sheets  LXXXI.— 16 ;  LXXXIL— 6,  6,  10 ;  3s.  each.  LXXXII.— 9, 13.  14 ; 
LXXXVIIL— 1;  3s.  Qd.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Bromeswell,  Area  Book  1«. 
Freston,  sheets  LXXXIL— 11;  3s.  LXXXIL— 7,  12,  16;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
LXXXIL— 8,  15 ;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Harkstead.  sheets  LXXXIX. 
—1 ;  3s.  LXXXIL— 16 ;  LXXXIIL— 13  ;  3s.  Qd.  each.  LXXXVIIL— 4, 8 ; 
LXXXIX.— 5  ;  48.  Area  Book  Is.  Hclbrook,  sheets  LXXXII.— 6, 10, 11 ; 
3s.  each.  liXXXlL— 7, 16 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXXIL— 16  ;  LXXXVIIL— 
3,  4,  7,  8  ;  4s.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Lakenheath,  sheets  XII.— 10,  11,  14, 
15,  16;  XIII.— 13;  2s.  Gd.  each.  XI.-3,  7,  8,  12,  16;  XU.-2,  G,  18; 
3«.  Gd.  each.  XL— 4, 11, 15 ;  XII.  9 ;  4s.  each.  XIL— 1 ;  4s.  Gd.  XH.— 
5;  5s.  Area  Book  Is.  Gd.  Melton  and  Do.  (Det.,  Nos.  1  and  fj.  Area 
Book  Is.  Tathiiigstone,  sheets  LXXXIL— 10,  11 ;  3s.  each.  LXXXIL— 
13, 14;  LXXXVIIL— 1,  2;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXXIL— 15 ;  4«.  Area  Book 
Is.  Tuddenham,  Area  Book  Is.  Wangford,  Area  Book  Is.  Wherstead, 
sheets  LXXXIL— 6,  10;  3s.  each.  LXXXIL— 2,  4,  7;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
LXXXII.— 3,  8 ;  4s.  each.    Area  Book  Is. 

Town  Plans— Scale  1 :  500. 

England:  East  Dereham,  sheets  XLIX.  13.— 2,  3,  4,  7,  8,  9, 12, 13, 14,  IS- 
IS, 19,  20,  23,  24  ;  LXI.  1.— 3,  4  ;  2s.  each.  Liskeard,  sheets  XXXVL  6. 
20,  24,  25;  XXXVL  6.— 11,  12,  16,  21,  22;  XXXVL  9.-3,  4,  5,  10; 
XXXVL  10.— 1 ;  2«.  each.  WelUngton,  sheets  XXXVL  9.-7,  8,  9,  12, 14, 
17, 18,  19,  22,  23,  24,  25 ;  XXXVf.  13.-2,  3,  5 ;  2s.  each. 

Puhlications  issued  from  1st  to  31st  December,  1882. 
l-inch — General  Map : — 

England  and  Wales,  New  Series  :  Sheet  259  (in  Outline),  price  Is. 

25-incll — Parish  Maps : — 

England:  Cornwall:  Sheets  XXXV.— 9,  10,  14;  3s.  each.  XXXV.— 
5,  6,  13;  3s.  Gd.  each.    Duloe,  sheets  XLIU.— 7,  8;  XLIV.— 1 ;  3s.  each. 


NEW  MAPS.  247 

XXXV.— 10;  XXXVI.— 13;  XLHI.- 4,  11.  12;  XLIV.-5,  6,  9,  13; 
LIII.— 1;  35.  6rf.  each.  XLIV.— 10,  14:  4s.  each.  LIII.— 2;  6«,  6d, 
Liskeard,  sheete  XXXVL— 1;  3s.  XXXV.-4,  7,  11,  12,  16; 
XXXVI. -2,  10,  13,  14,  15;  XLIV.— 2,  3,  5,  6,  7;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
XXXV. -8 ;  XXXVI.— 5,  9  ;  4s.  each.  XXXVI.— 6  ;  6s.  Gd.  Pelynt, 
sheets  XLIIL— 14,  15, 16;  LII.— 3,  4;  3».  each.  XLIIL— 11, 12  ;  XLIV. 
—9, 13  ;  LII.— 2,  7, 8 ;  LIII.— 1 ;  3s.  6d.  each.  WarleggoD,  sheets  XXVII.— 
1.  5,  6,  9,  .10;  XXXV.— 1;  3s.  each.  XXVI  I.— 13;  XXXV.— ^2,  5,  6; 
3«.  Gd,  each.  XXVII. ;  4s.  Gloucester :  Charfield,  sheets  LXIV.— 1 ; 
2s.  Gd.  LXIV.— 6 ;  3s.  Gd,  LVI.— 14 ;  LXIV.— 2  ;  4s.  each.  Area  Book, 
Is.  Great  Badminton,  sheets  LXX.— 6,  10;  3s.  each.  LXIX.— 8 ;  LXX.— 
5,9;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  Kin^swood,  sheets  LXIV.— 11;  3s. 
LXIV.— 6,  7  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LVI.— 14  ;  LXIV.— 2  ;  4s.  each.  LXIV.— 3, 
10 ;  4s.  Gd.  each.  LVL— 15 ;  5s.  Gd.  Area  Book  Is.  Oldbury  on  the  Hill, 
sheets  LXIV.— 5,  11 ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  LXV.— 6,  9, 13  ;  3s.  each.  LXV.— 
10,  14;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  Is.  West  Littleton,  sheets  LXXIII.— 8; 
2s.  Gd.  LXXIIL— 7;  3s.  LXXIII.— 11. 12 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  Area  Book  Is. 
Weston  Birt  with  Ljisborough,  sheets  LXV.— 7, 12 ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  LVIL— 
14,  15;  LXV.— 3;  3s.  each.  LVIL— 10;  LXV.— 2,  8;  3s.  Gd. 
each.  Monmouth:  LlanvihaDgel-Lantamam  and  Do.  (Dot.),  sheets 
XXIIL— 10,  14;  XXVIII.— 2,  8;  3s.  each.  XXIII.— 16 ;  XXVIII. 
—7;  38.  Gd.  each.  XXIIL— 12;  XXVIII.— 3,  4;  XXIX.— 5 ;  4s.  each. 
XXIIL— 11, 15  ;  4s.  Gd.  each.  Norfolk :  sheets  LXIL— 10, 13 ;  LXXIV. 
2;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXIL — 11,  14,  15;  4s.  each.  Bracon  Ash,  sheets 
LXXXVIL— 1,  5 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXV.— 13 ;  LXXXVL— 4,  8 ;  4s.  each. 
Carleton  Forehoe,  sheets  LXIL— 13 ;  LXXIV.— 1,  2 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXII. 
—14 ;  4s.  Crostwick,  sheets  LI.— 16 ;  LII.— 9,  13 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LI.— 12 ; 
LII. — 5 ;  4s.  each.  Crownthorpe,  sheets  LXXIV. — 5,  9,  13 ;  3s.  Gd.  each. 
Dunston,  sheets  LXXV.— 11,  14  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXV.— 10, 15  ;  4s.  each. 
East  Carleton,  sheets  LXXIV.— 12 ;  LXXV.— 5,  9  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXIV. 
—16;  LXXV.— 13;  4s.  each.  Floxdon,  sheets  LXXXVIL— 1,  5;  3s.  6d. 
each.  LXXXVL— 8;  LXXXVIL- 6,  10;  4s.  each.  LXXXVIL— 9; 
4s.  Gd.  Hethel,  sheets  LXXIV.— 15;  LXXXVL— 3 ;  LXXXVIL— 1,  5; 
3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXIV.- 16;  LXXV.— 13 ;  LXXXVL— 4,  8;  4s.  each. 
Ketteringham,  sheets  LXXIV.— 8 ;  3s.  LXXIV.— 11,  12,  15 ;  LXXV.— 
5,  9:  3s.  Gd.  eacK  LXXIV.— 16;  48.  Morton  on  the  Hill,  sheets  L. 
— 6,  7,  10,  11,  15 ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  L.— 2,  3  ;  4s.  each.  Newton  Flotman, 
sheets  LXXXVIL— 1,  2,  5;  3s.  Gd.  each.  LXXXVIL— 3,  6, 10;  4s.  each. 
Weston  Longville,  sheets  L.— 5,  6,  9,  10,  11,  14, 15  ;  3s.  Gd.  each.  L.— 2; 
4».    WrampUngham,  sheets  LXXIV.— 2,  3,  6  ;  3s.  Gd.  ei\ch.    LXIL— 14, 

15  ;  4s.  each.  Wreningbam,  sheets  LXXIV.— 15 ;  LXXXVL— 3  ;  3s.  Gd. 
each.     LXXXVL — 4,  7,  8;  4s.  each.     ShropsMre :  Cound,  sheets  XLII. 

.—13  ;  L.— 2,  6,  9  ;  3s.  each.  XLL— 16  ;  XLII.— 5,  14;  L.— 1,  5  ;  3s.  Gd. 
each.  XLII.— 9,  10 ;  4s.  each.  Harley  &  Uo.  (Det),  sheets  L.— 2,  3, 6, 11 ; 
3«.  each.    L.— 7,  10 ;  3».  Gd.  each.    L.— 8  ;  4s. 

Fablications  issued  from  1st  to  31st  January,  1883. 

Scinch — Ck>unty  Maps  : — 

E21GLAND :  Berks,  sheet  44,  with  Hants,  sheet  4,  price  2s.  Gd.  Berks,  sheet  42, 
with  Hants,  sheet  2,  price  2s.  Gd.  Berks,  sheet  30,  with  0-xford,  sheet  57, 
price  2s.  Gd.  Berks,  sheet  28,  with  Oxford,  sheet  55,  price  2s.  6c?.  Bucking- 
ham, sheet  43,  price  2s.  Gd.  Herts,  sheet  4,  price  2s.  Gd.  1  and  2  also 
printed  on  this  sheet.  Hertford,  sheet  3,  price  2s.  Oxford,  sheet  56  with 
Berks,  sheet  29,  price  2s.  Gd.  Derby,  quarter  sheets,  9  S.E. ;  12  N.W.,  12 
N.E.,  12  S.E.;  13  N.W.,  13  S.W.  (these  complete  sheet  13);   15S.W.; 

16  N.W. ;  18  N.W.;    19  S.W. ;  price  Is.  each. 

ASIA. 

ladian  Govemment  Surveys  :— 

Indian  Atlas,  Quarter  Sheets  31  N.W.,  32  S.W.,  G7  S.E.,  71  S.E.,  77  X.E.,  and 
138  N.W. — Bombay  Presidency :  Trigonometrical  Branch,  Survey  of  India.  Sheet 


248  NEW  MAPS. 

No.  20  of  Catch.  Parts  of  Bani  and  Pachbam.  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mik.  S«a^E^^^ 
1881-82. — Bengal  Presidency :  Rajputana  Topographical  Survey.  Sheet  No.  ^^ 
(Second  issue).  Parts  of  Jeypore,  Jodhpore,  and  Eishengurh.  Scale  1  inck  t:^ii 
1  mile.  Seasons  1865  to  67.— North-West  Provinces  Survey.  Sheets  No.  1  N.Xir  ^ 
1  S.E.,  1  S.W.  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  District  Saharanpur.  *^--iil  1 
1878-79-80.  Sheet  No.  3.  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile.  District  Sahamnpars^ 
Seasons  1878-79-80.  Sheet  No.  4.  Scale  1  mile  to  1  inch.  Districts  Sabttm&p«^s= 
and  Muzaffamagar.  Seasons  1878-79-80.  Sheet  No.  7,  Scale  1  inch  to  1  milr_^ 
District  Meerut.  Seasons  1879-80-81.  Sheet  No.  13.  Scale  I  inch  to  1  mik 
Districts  Saharanpur  and  Umballa.  Seasons  1878-79-80.  Sheet  13  (N.W.)J 
Scale  2  inches  to  1  mile.  Districts  Saharanpur  and  Umballa.  Seasons  1678 
79-80.  Sheets  13  (N.E.),  13  (S.E.),  and  13  (S.W.).  Scale  2  inches  to  1  m\h 
District  Saharanpur,  Seasons  1878-79-80.  Sheets  17  (K.E.),  17  (N.W,),| 
17  (S.K),  and  17  (S.W.).  Scale  2  inches  to  1  mile.  Districts Musaffariaagtr  s 
Meerut.  Seasons  1879-80-81.  Sheet  No.  30  (Western  Portion),  Scale  1  inch 
to  1  mile.  Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut.  Seasons  1878-79^0.  She 
No.  31  (Western  Portion).  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile.  District  Meenit.  Season 
1879-81.  Sheet  No.  49.  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile.  District  Sloradabad 
Bampiur  State.  Seasons  1871  to  77. — Lower  Provinces  Beveuue  Survey.  Shs 
No.  9.  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile.  District  NoakhoUy.  Seasonn  1864-65,  On 
Revenue  Survey.  Sheet  No.  139  (New  edition,  1882).  Scale  1  iacli  to  1  inili 
Districts  Partabgarb  and  Rae  Bareli.  Seasons  1860  to  62.  Sheets  140  and  167] 
(New  editions,  1882).  Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile.  District  Partsibgarh.  Seasons 
1859  to  62.— Berar,  or  the  Hyderabad  Assigned  Districts.  1882.  (Preliminai: 
Map.)  Scale  1  inch  to  8  miles.  Published  with  and  without  hill-sbadin^. — The 
North- West  Provinces  and  Oudh,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Lieut.-GovemorJ 
1882.  Scale  32  miles  to  an  inch.— The  Central  Provinces.  188  L  Scale  1  inch  I 
to  16  miles.  2  sheets.— Lower  Provinces,  Bengal.  District  Son  thai  PergimnabsJ 
1841-67.  Scale  4  miles  to  1  inch.  From  sheets  Nos.  112  and  113  of  the  Indiaa  j 
Atlas. — ^District  Ehoolna,  Bengal.  Seasons  1851-59.  Scale  4  miles  to  1  inch,  ^ 
From  sheet  No.  121  of  the  Indian  Atlas. — Astor  and  Gilgit  with  sumionding 
Country.  Surveyed  1879  to  1881.  Scale  1  inch  to  4  miles. — Lower  Prorintses 
Survey.  Index  to  the  1  inch  to  1  mile  sheets  of  District  Midnapore.  1372-7^ 
Scale  1  inch  to  8  miles.— Madras  Presidency :  Mysore  ^Topographical  Sarvaj. 
Sheet  No.  26.      Parts  of  Hassan  and  Eadur  Districts.      Scale  1  inch  to  1  mile* 

Seasons  1879-80-81. 

• 

Smnatra. — Originalskizze  von  Dr.  B.  Hagens  Beiseroute  zum  Tobah-See  im 
Gebiete  der  Batta,  3.  bis  25.  August  1881.  Scale  1  :  400,000  or  5*5  g^ 
graphical  miles  to  an  inch.  Pctermann*8  *  Gbographische  Mittheilungen,*  IflSd 
Tafel2.    {Dulau,) 

AFRICA, 

Tnmat,  Jabus  U.  J41. — Originalkarte  der  Qnellgebieto  der  Fliisse .    Nadi 

Forschungen  in  den  Jahren  1881  Sc  1882,  entworfen  &  gezeichnet  von  JaanKirift 
Schuver.  Scale  1:500,000  or  6*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petomaim^ 
*  Geographische  Mittheilungen,'  1883,  Tafel  4.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.   (DmImi.) 


iunple  FissimilKrAttimt 
oyer ,  and  4SOji*distant 
Ae  latter  totrardgWXjr. 


PUN  or  THE  RUINS 
of 

TIKAL 


'v: 


^J  I 


ir 


oat  Journey  to  Novava  Zemlja  in  1881  -1882. 


'«  WlLK.l«Ww*aM    I  I 


PROCEEDINGS 

OP  THE 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Notes  on  the  Central  Provinces  of  Colombia. 
By  KoBERT  Blake  White,  o.e.,  p.gj3. 

(Bead  at  the  Erening  Meeting,  February  26th,  1883.) 
Map,  p.  312. 

Travellers  in  Colombia,  or  New  Granada  as  it  was  formerly  called, 
iisnally  follow  certain  beaten  tracks,  taking  the  route  of  the  Magdalena 
river,  or  that  vi4  Buenaventura  and  Gali,  to  the  interior.  Hence  no 
description  has  ever  been  published,  in  recent  times,  of  the  districts  of 
which  this  paper  treats.  Before,  however,  giving  an  account  of  these 
special  localities  I  think  it  may  be  useful  to  give  a  brief  sketch  of  the 
general  configuration  of  the  country,  especially  of  its  rivers  and  the 
mountain  chains  which  determine  the  courses  of  the  rivers. 

The  branching  of  the  Andes  cordillera  into  three  ranges  near  the 
southern  frontier  of  Colombia  causes  the  rivers  of  this  country  to  follow 
various  directions,  instead  of  the  east  to  west  course  which  is  general  all 
along  the  western  slope  of  the  Andes,  from  Chili  northwards. 

The  direct  efiect  of  this  division  of  the  mountain  range  would  be  to 
form  valleys  running  from  south  to  north,  parallel  to  the  three  chains. 
But  it  would  appear  that  the  volcanic  forces  which  upheaved  the  central 
cordillera  were  more  active,  or  were  stronger  at  certain  points,  and  that 
the  volcanic  action  was  continued  for  a  longer  time  at  other  points. 
Hence  we  find  that  the  great  focus  of  volcanic  force,  represented  by 
the  volcanoes  of  Furace,  Sotara,  &c.,  produced  an  upheaval  of  the 
country  near  them,  and  made  a  break  in  the  great  valley  which  lay 
between  the  Western  and  Central  Andes,  and  thus  caused  the  river 
Cauca  to  flow  to  the  north  and  the  Fatia  to  the  south. 

Then,  again,  to  the  volcanoes  of  Fasto,  Cumbal,  Chiles,  <&c.,  near 
Ekiuador,  is  due  the  upheaval  of  the  vast  and  elevated  table-lands  on  the 
southern  boundary  of  Colombia.  The  northern  limit  of  their  action  was 
marked  by  a  great  line  of  fault  or  fracture  near  El  Castigo,  and  along 
this  line  of  fracture  the  waters  of  the  Fatia  basin  excavated  a  passage 

No.  v.— Mat  1883.]  s 


250 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBO. 


for  theniBelves  through  the  old  chain  of  the  Andes  to  the  Pacific.  The 
western  oordillcra  which  I  have  just  called  the  old,  is  so  umloubtedly. 
It  is  formed  in  the  main  of  granites  and  diorites  infinitely  older  than 
the  volcanic  rocks  of  the  central  chain,  which  are  of  post-cretaoeoua, 
perhaps  even  of  tertiary  age.  It  is  nowhere  broken  hy  any  great  valley, 
except  at  the  point  just  mentioned,  from  Patagonia  to  Darien. 

A  similar  but  later  development  of  volcanic  force  caused  the  Bepara- 
tion  of  the  valleys  of  the  Atrato  and  San  Juan.  The  post^terttarj 
porphyries  of  Supia  and  the  basalts  of  the  Tado  Morros  are  evidence* 
of  this  action.  Directly  to  the  eastward  of  this  group  of  igneous  rocks 
lies  the  great  volcanic  centre  of  Herveo,  Tolijua,  and  Santa  Isabel,  and 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  valley  of  the  upper  Cauca  was  for  some 
time  in  the  post- tertiary  period  converted  into  a  lake,  owing  to  the 
upheaval  of  the  flanks  of  the  volcanoes  mentioned.  However,  their 
action  also  produced  a  fracture  parallel  to  the  opposing  western  Cor- 
dillera, and  the  waters  of  the  Cauca  at  last  worketl  their  way  northwards 
and  now  run  tlirough  one  of  the  grandest  ravines  imaginable. 

The  distinguished  geologists,  Brs.  Alfons  Stubel  and  Wilhelm 
ReisB,  who  have  spent  so  many  years  in  investigating  the  structure  of 
the  Andes,  direotecl  my  attention  to  this  unexplored  part  of  Colombia, 
which  they  were  theraselves  unable  to  visit. 

To  the  northward  of  the  Herveo  centre  we  have  a  repetition  of  the 
same  development  of  elevated  table-lands  which  are  found  round  the  groat 
volcanic  centre  of  Pasto,  but  on  a  larger  scale.  They  extend  throughout 
the  principal  part  of  the  State  of  Antioquia,  and  as  far  as  tho  junction 
(if  the  rivers  Nechi  and  Porce.  The  igneous  rocks  which  from  time  to 
time  have  burst  up  upon  the  flank  of  the  original  volcanic  centre  are 
syenitio  gi"anite,  porphyi'ies,  basalts,  and  trachytes.  Naturally,  in  such 
a  large  extent  of  country,  many  fractures  wore  produced  by  the  move- 
ments accompanying  these  eruptions,  and  these  fractures  now  mark  the 
courses  of  the  principal  riA'Crs  of  tho  country. 

Tho  State  of  Antioquia,  therefore,  although  it  may  be  generally 
looked  upon  as  a  great  tabledand,  is  broken  up  by  some  very  deep 
valleys.  That  of  the  river  Arma  is  5000  feet  in  depth,  and  marks  the 
line  of  a  great  east  and  west  fracture,  and  the  river  Force,  which  runs 
in  a  valley  even  deeper  than  tho  preceding,  follows  a  north  and  south 
line.  The  general  elevation  of  most  of  tho  countrv^  in  Antioquia  is 
6000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  it  may  bo  considered  as  the  highlands  of 
this  part  of  Colombia.  There  is  clear  evidence  that  the  river  Cauca, 
in  keeping  open  for  itself  a  passage  along  the  western  flank  of  this 
great  mass  of  eniptive  rock,  had  a  great  deal  of  hard  work  to  do.  Over 
a  distanco  of  200  miles  it  occupies  a  comparatively  narrow  valley, 
excavated  by  its  waters  in  the  sedimentary  rocks  which  were  upheaved 
and  })roken  by  the  disturbing  influences  to  the  eastward.  Naturally, 
therefore,  this  part  of  the  Cauca  valley  is  comparatively  sterile,  owing 


I 


JNOTiB  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


251 


absence  of  alluvial  deposits;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  it  exposes 
gnuid  sections  of  strata  abounding  in  mineral  wealth. 

The  TTouiiorful  effeota  of  the  volcanic  action  referred  to  must  be 
indisputably  recognised  when  wo  note  the  existonce  of  upper  cretaceous 
xtDolM  at  an  elevation  of  8000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  of  post^tortiary 
gravels  at  6000  feot  in  the  central  cordillera,  whilst  on  the  flanks  of 

[.•western  cordillera  we  find  the  sainc  formations  at  sea-level. 

Tin:  Valley  of  the  TJppEr.  Atrato. 

A  great  doal  of  infonuation  has  been  published  respecting  the  lowef 

Ltrato,  particularly  in  connection  with  projected  inter-oceanic  canals. 

upper  portions  of  this  gre^it  valley,  with  their  relatively  healthy 

and  fertile  lands,  aro  accessible  by  steamer  from  the  Atlantic 

tOcean,  and  can  also  be  easily  placed  in  communication  with  the  interior 

Qd  moro  populated  part«  of  Colombia.     Tho  river  Atrato  at  Qulbdo  is 

50  }*arvla  wido  and  12  feet  deep  in  ordinary  seasons,  and  small  steamers 

go  Bp  to  Lion).     The  greater  part  of  tho  land  in  tho  basin  of  the 

'*Atrato  from  Quibdo  upwards  may  be  said  to  be  simply  hilly,  not  moun- 

tainoos,  and  generally  well  adapted  for  agriculture.      There  are  few 

L  rlearings,  and  the  virgin  forest  which  covers  the  greater  portion  abounds 

lin  valuable  produce.    The  course  of  the  upper  Atrato  was  first  surveyed 

me,  and  it  had  been  previonsly  believed  that  tho  river  took  a  more 

lirect  course  from  the  cordillera  down  to  tho  main  valley.     The  detour 

tie  by  the  river  accounts  for  the  relatively  open  and  unbroken  country 

irough  which  it  runs.     The  higher  portions  of  the  valley  at  an  elcva- 

BOD  of  4000  and  6000  feet  above  the  sea  are  very  healthy,  and  here 

onsiderable  areas  of  open  prairie  laud  aro  to  be  met  with. 

Everj'  description  of  tropical  produce  may  l>e   cultivated,  us   the 
mean  temperature  ranges  from  60^  to  80''.     Caoutchouc  of  the  best 
•jiiality  abounds   in   the   warmer    parts,   and   the    ivory  nut  is  very 
abundant.      Promising   copper   lodes   exist   near  Quil:Hi<5,  and  coal   is 
met  with  in  several  places.     The  Atrato  itself  and  all  the  tributary 
strnuns  are  rich   in  alluvial  gold,  which  is  of  very  high   standard. 
L.Tliat  of  tho  river  Neguu  is  of  23^  carats.     Previous  to  tho  Spanish 
Iconquest  there  must  have  been  a  considerable  native  population,  as 
rhnrever  the   forests  in   this    region    have  been  explored,   extensive 
ftdian   cemeteries   and  sites  of  towns   and  villages  are  met  with   in 
it  number ;  so  much  so,  that  on  tho  mountain  ridge  which  termi- 
nates at  Quibdo  these  ancient  lemuins  are  so  abundant  that  one  would 
Qost   think    that   a   continuous    line   of  villages   existed    here.      At 
[first  sight  tiie  enormous  trees  in  these   dense  forests  would  lead  one 
[to  mippose  that  they  must  be  of  immense  age ;  but  a  comparison  with 
vegetation  which   has   sprung  up  on  what  are   undoubtedly  old 
sh  mine  workings  dating  no  further  back  than  tho  year  1000, 
onvinoes  one  that  the  greater  part  of  thene  forests  ore  not  more  than 

s  2 


252 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA- 


200  or  300  years  old,  and  probaLly  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  conqaut 
ihcra  mxiBt  have  existed  here  vast  tracts  of  open  country,  filled  with 
an  Indian  population  occupying  themselves  in  agriculture  and  general 
industry. 

The  race  is  practically  extinct.  From  the  remains  found  in  Indian 
graves  and  on  the  sites  of  villages,  it  may  bo  gathered  that  tlie  aboriginal 
races  were  of  low  civilisatiou.  The  Indians  of  this  region  did  not  use  the 
curare  poison  for  the  aiTows  of  their  blow-guns.  They  employed  and 
still  use  the  extract  of  the  sltin  secretion  of  a  small  lilack  and  yellow 
spotted  frog»  which  they  prepare  in  a  peculiar  manner.  It  causes 
instantaneous  paralysis,  and  death  in  two  or  thro©  minutes.  Salt  is  said 
to  be  an  antidote. 

Fish  are  very  abundant  in  those  rivers.  At  a  certain  season  the  fish 
come  up  the  Atrato,  seeking  the  upper  waters  to  spawn.  The  shoals  are 
so  numerous  as  to  create  quite  a  sensible  impression  upon  the  current  of 
the  Atrato.  Special  sanitary  regulations  are  put  in  force  by  the  autho- 
rities in  Quihdd  during  this  season,  with  the  object  of  getting  rid  of  the 
immense  quantity  of  dead  fish  which  are  left  upon  the  banks  of  the 
river. 

Although  the  scanty  population  of  these  regions  detracts  from  their 
present  value,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  will  at  no  very  distant 
day  attract  attention.  As  the  works  upon  the  Pananiu  Canal  advance, 
so  the  inhabitable  and  productive  lands  in  its  vicinity  will  become 
valuable.  For  the  Atrato  valley,  with  its  rich  alluviums,  contraste 
favourably  with  all  the  region  north  of  it  as  far  as  Coata  Rica.  It  is 
easy  of  access  from  the  Atlantic,  and  will  without  doubt  l>o  called  upon 
to  serve  as  the  great  source  of  the  food  supply  for  the  Isthmus  and  the 
traffic  induced  by  the  canal. 

The  western  frontier  of  the  state  of  Antioquia,  marked  by  the 
wcstoiTi  chain  of  the  Andes,  is  only  60  miles  distant  from  Quibdo.  On 
entering  Antioquia  one  sees  at  once  that  it  is  from  here  that  the  colonists 
of  the  upper  Atrato  will  come.  This  comparatively  small  state  has  a 
population  of  400,000,  of  which  three-fourths  are  whites  and  one-fourth 
mulattoes.  It  is  a  mountainous  country,  and  its  inhabitants  are  hardy, 
active,  and  industrious,  being  principally  descended  from  emigrants 
from  the  north  of  Spain.  The  neat,  clean  villages  and  towns,  and  the 
evidences  of  industry  shown  in  the  extraordinary  cultivation  of  the 
rugged  country,  strike  the  traveller  most  favourably.  At  present  there 
is  a  track  barely  transitable  for  mules  opened  through  the  forest 
between  Quibdo,  on  the  Atrato,  and  the  towu  of  Bolivar,  which  ia  the 
fii'st  of  any  importance  on  the  Antioqueiian  frontier.  The  country,  how- 
ever, over  the  whole  of  this  distance,  does  not  present  any  difiBcuItiea 
to  the  construction  of  a  good  roa<l  or  oven  of  a  railroad,  as  the  western 
Cordillera  which  hero  divides  the  states  of  Antioquia  and  Cauca  is 
uncommouly  low,  the  beight  above  the  level  of  the  sea  being  only 


« 


4 


KOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBU. 


253 


6850  feet.  As  the  country  progresses  in  civilisation  and  commercial 
importance,  attention  will  no  doubt  be  given  to  this  route  as  a  means 
,  of  communication  between  the  interior  and  tlio  Atlantic  coasts  and  it  is 
'  probable  that  political  cousiderationa  only,  arisiug  from  the  fact  of  the 
road  having  to  traverse  the  territories  of  two  States  in  which  the  customs 
tariffs  and  other  laws  are  not  entirely  in  accord,  have  prevented  this 
route  from  being  selected  as  the  preferable  one  for  opening  up  the  com- 
munications referred  to.  A  scheme  has  l>een  already  sketched  out  by 
Mr.  Francisco  Javier  Cisneros^  c.e.,  for  a  railroad  which,  traversing  the 
whole  of  the  valley  of  the  Patia  and  that  of  the  river  Cauca,  would 
communicate  with  the  Atrato  vi&  Quibilo.  As  the  first  of  these  rivers 
debouches  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  the  Atrato  on  the  Atlantic,  an  inter- 
I  oceanic  oommunicatiou  would  thus  be  formed  which  would  aflford  faci- 
lities for  the  whole  of  the  interior  trade  of  the  country  to  be  carried  on 
with  the  ports  on  either  ocean. 

At  the  present  time  the  Atrato  valley  has  a  population  of  40,000, 
of  which  one-fourth  are  whites,  and  three-fourths  half-caste  negroes. 
The  white  population  are  principally  engaged  in  importing  such  few 
articles  as  are  necessary  for  clothing  and  general  purposes  amongst  this 
very  plain  living  people,  and  they  purchase  the  gold  which  is  obtained 
by  the  negro  washers  at  a  considerable  profit,  and  export  it  to  pay  for 
the  articles  which  they  import.  The  negroes  occupy  themselves  in  the 
collection  of  caoutchouc,  ivory-nuts,  sarsaparilla,  and  a  few  other  natural 
products,  and  also  in  gold-washing  on  a  small  scale,  principally  by 
streaming.  Their  wants  arc  few,  they  use  little  or  no  clothing,  and 
iheir  food  consists  principally  of  bananas,  fish,  and  game. 

r^*  TiiK  PiivEits  Cauca  and  Nechj. 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  state  of  Antioquia,  the  river  Cauca, 
"before  joining  the  Magdalena,  receives  the  waters  of  the  Xechi  and  the 
Porce.  These  rivers  and  the  extensive  region  surrounding  their  junction 
are  of  great  interest.  The  Cauca  is  navigable  for  steamers  from  its 
junction  with  the  Magdalena  up  to  Ciiceres,  and  the  Nechi  is  also 
navigable  up  to  Zaragoza,  a  distance  of  about  370  miles.  An  immense 
traot  of  country  is  thus  placed  in  direct  communication  with  the  ports 
of  C&rthagena  and  Barranriuilla  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

Ranges  of  low  hills  dying  away  in  extensive  plains,  which  are  not, 
however,  as  a  rule,  swampy,  are  the  characteristics  of  this  district.  The 
climate  is  hot,  but  not  unhealthy  in  the  sense  in  which  the  term  is 
usually  applied  to  hot  and  low- lying  tropical  districts.  The  general 
height  of  the  hills  is  2000  feet  above  sea-level,  and  that  of  the  plains 
is  300.  The  population  is  scanty.  The  lazy  negro  race  of  the  ooast 
has  no  tendency  to  spread  inland,  and  the  mountaineer  from  Antioquia 
has  no  liking  for  a  hot  climate.  The  country  is  covered  with  forest. 
Valuable    timber,  dye    woods,  resins,  balsams,   and    gums    are    found. 


NOTES  ON  THJi  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


The  finost  ipocaouanlie(  iB  mot  with  near  C^oeres;  gingor  is  indigenoos. 
The  tjiUow-But,  thd  ivory-nut,  and  caoutchouc  {caucho)  mig^ht  be  oolleot«d 
and  exported. 

The  Spaniards  found  this  region  was  called  Zenufana,  or***  Land  of 
Gold."  A  great  Indian  road,  probably  connecting  Bogot4,  the  wipital 
of  the  Zipa,  with  the  Zenu  and  Darieu  kiugdoma,  and  ultimately  with 
Central  America,  traversed  the  country.  The  first  Spanish  "  conquia- 
tadores  "  found  immense  wealth  amongst  the  Indians,  who  must  have 
been  very  numerous.  The  Indians  worked  the  guld-mincs,  botli  uUuyiftl 
and  quartz,  with  which  the  whole  country  abounds,  and  they  oontinuetl 
to  work  tliom  under  the  direction  of  the  Spaniards,  The  greater  part 
api>ear  to  have  been  of  a  low  grade  of  civilisation,  but  the  artistic  work 
in  gold  and  pottery  which  is  found  in  some  parts  would  soem  to  indicate 
that  the  majority  of  the  tribes  were  more  or  less  savage  tributaries  of 
more  advanced  races. 

The  "  Frontino  and  Bolivia,"  and  one  or  two  other  English  companies, 
are  working  gold  quartz  mines  in  this  region  with  good  results.  Other 
mines,  both  alluvial  and  quartz,  are  worked  in  a  i-ude  way  by  the  natiTOB, 
and  the  total  produce  amounts  to  about  70,000  ounces  per  annum.  Goal 
is  abundant  on  the  banks  of  the  Nochi  and  Oaiica,  and  the  aeanis  are 
favourably  jdaced  for  -working.  The  cultivation  of  the  sngar-caae, 
cotton,  and  the  cacao  tree  might  be  ctirried  on  with  good  results 
upon  tho  lower  lamls  adjoining  tho  navigable  rivers  without  it  being 
necessary  to  employ  tho  large  amounts  of  capital  so  oft^i  expended  in 
drainage  and  in  the  preparation  of  tho  land. 

The  country  to  the  south  of  the  junction  of  tho  rivers  Kechi  and 
Porco  has  already  been  referred  to^  ub  l>eing»  generally  speaking,  an 
elevated  table-land.  In  its  colder  regions  European  vegetable  produce 
of  the  principal  kinds  may  be  obtained,  and  labour  is  plentiful ;  the 
inhabitants  are  industrious,  and  thus  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  that 
supplies  of  every  description  of  food  woidd  bo  obtainable  if  agrioalture 
or  mining  on  a  large  scale  were  undertaken  in  the  Cauca-Nechi  penin- 
sula. Although  the  whole  of  tho  more  elevated  country  is  traversed  by 
rivcjs  and  Ktreams  almost  uniformly  rich  in  gold,  yet  tlie  pursuit  of  this 
metal  does  not  produce  amongst  the  inhabitants  those  habits  of  indolence 
which  so  often  accompany  it  in  the  hotter  climates,  where  food  may  be 
easily  obtained,  and  where  the  wants  of  tho  workers  are  s<;>  small.  Of 
the  population  of  the  State  of  Aiitioquia  about  15,000  are  professionally 
engaged  in  gold-mining,  and  the  Mgricultuial  produce  obtained  by  tho 
hard  labour  of  the  rest  of  tho  inhabitants  only  just  auffioes  for  their 
wants.  Throughout  the  whole  of  this  State  the  traveller  is  sure  to 
meet  with  a  hospitable  reception  wherever  ho  goes,  and  -with  provisions 
sufficient  for  his  necessities,  although  of  course  he  wUl  not  find  many 
delicaoies.  The  roads  are  perfectly  safe,  no  attack  upon  a  traveller 
having  ever  come  within  my  knuwledge  in  17  years'  residence  in  the 


I 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA.  255 

Itry.     Tl»©  river  Canca  in  the  turn  which  its  course  takes  from  north 

[to  north-east  practically  forms  the  boundary  of  the  State  of  Antioquia, 

I  for  theee  monntaiiiecra,  as  already  mentioned,  eschew  the  hot  climates — 

I  henoe  the  vast  distriots  to  the  north-west  of  tho  Cauca  have  remained 

unexplored.     The  Spaniards  attempted  to  oolouise  this  part  after  having 

Buccessfully  entered  tho  country'  via  the  Darien  and  the  Sinu,  but  their 

early  colonies  were  destroyed  by  the  Indians,  and  amongst  them  the 

first  city  of  Santa   Fe   de   Antioquia,   which  was   afterwards  rebuilt 

where  it  now  stands.     Tho  enormous  riches  of  this  region  ai'o  mattei's 

of  historj'. 

The  head  waters  of  the  rivers  San  Jorge,  Sinu,  Leon,  and  Kio  Sucio 
run  through  an  elevated  country,  fertile  and  healthy.  The  lowlands 
and  wanner  climates  possess  their  advantages,  but  it  is  particularly  in 
this  part  of  the  South  Americ-an  rontincnt  that  the  more  temperate 
regions  possess  especial  merit ;  offering,  as  they  do,  a  climate  suitable  to 
foreign  immigrants,  and  a  soil  in  which  tho  vegetable  products  of  the 
temperate  zone  may  be  ciiltivated  under  advantageous  conditions. 

The  Vallev  of  the  San  Juan. 

The  Son  Juan  valley  is  to  tho  south  province  of  tho  Choco  what 
the  Atrato  is  to  the  north.  Its  accessibility  from  the  Pacific  coast  by 
steamers,  which  can  navigate  the  San  Juan  with  case  for  a  distance  of 
130  milca,  makes  it  well  worthy  of  notice.  The  idea  of  connecting  the 
upper  Atrato  and  the  upper  San  Juan  by  means  of  a  canal  was  tho  base 
of  one  of  the  old  inter-oceanic  canal  schcmcB.  The  region  is  interesting 
on  aooount  of  its  vegetable  products,  and  the  rich  alluvial  gold  deposits 
of  the  San  Juan  ba*in. 

In  making  a  juumey  from  Buenaventura  up  tho  San  Juan  to  Novita, 
one  meets  -with  no  evidences  of  civilisation.  Tho  dug-out  canoes,  tho 
naked  negro  canoemen.  their  palm-thatched  huts  built  on  stakes  on 
the  banks  of  the  rivers,  their  blow-guns  and  bow  and  arrow  fishing 
tackle,  grass  ropes,  bark  sleeping-mats  and  iiah>traps,  are  :tll  as  purely 
primitive  as  if  steamtsrs  and  telegraphs  were  not  known  within  a 
thousand  miles  of  the  place.  The  few  Indians  who  still  live  in  this 
T»Uey  Wong  to  two  tribes,  the  Noanama  and  Tado.  They  marry 
amongst  themselves,  are  little  given  to  learning  the  Spanish  language, 
and  arc  fast  dying  out.  I  was  much  struck  by  the  words  fathe  for  father, 
and  ckaida  for  child,  in  tho  Nouuamu  language. 

The  present  town  of  Novitii,  tho  capital  of  the  Province,  is  quite 
modem  ;  the  old  town,  which  was  about  two  miles  away,  was  abandoned 
vrhen  the  slaves  were  set  free  and  its  rich  mines  could  bo  no  longer 
worked.  The  country  from  N6vita  towards  tho  cordillera  is  very 
beautiful,  and  contains  large  tracts  of  land,  at  an  elevation  of  3000 
and  4000  feet,  where  colonists  would  be  free  from  fevers. 

The  Cerro  TorrA,  about  27  miles  oast  of  Ndvita,  is  of  very  peculiar 


256 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMUIA. 


form.  A  picturesque  ridge  of  hills,  nmning  from  east  to  west,  cuJmi- 
nates  in  a  moimtain  whose  summit  is  about  12,600  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  here  the  ridge  abruptly  terminates.  Many  expeditions  had  been 
mfwle  to  reach  this  singular  mountain,  but  none  had  ever  succeeded,  in 
consetinence  of  the  great  obstacles  presented  by  the  broken  ground  which 
surrounds  it.     It  was  reached  by  me  in  1878, 

I  embarked  in  a  canoe  in  Buenaventura  and  traversed  the  isthmus 
separating  the  bay  of  Buenaventura  from  the  river  Calima,  and  after  a 
tedious  journey  of  eight  days  poling  up  the  river  San  Juan  in  large 
canoes,  I  reached  N6vita»  As  I  could  obtain  no  information  at  aU 
respecting  the  configuration  of  the  country  between  this  place  and  the 
Cerro  Terra,  which  was  excessively  broken  and  covered  with  virgin 
forest,  I  was  compelled  to  take  what  preliminary  observations  I  could 
to  serve  me  as  guides  on  my  way  to  the  mountain,  as  it  will  bo  under- 
stood that  after  leaving  the  open  country  immediately  round  Novita  it 
was  not  likely  in  the  dense  forest  that  I  should  ever  again  get  a 
glimpse  of  the  mountain,  until  I  was  close  upon  it.  I  therefore  measured 
a  base  on  the  flat  land  near  Novita  and  took  observations  to  detennine 
the  distance  of  the  mountain^  and  I  made  careful  sketches  of  all  the 
important  ridges  of  hills  and  prominent  points  in  the  country,  taking 
their  bearings  by  the  compass. 

I  started  on  the  expedition  with  eight  negroes  to  cut  the  path 
through  the  woods,  build  the  huts  for  stopping  in  at  night,  and  for 
geneml  exploring,  and  in  addition  I  had  a  train  of  carriers  who  made 
bi-weekly  trips  to  bring  in  on  their  shouldci-s  the  provisions  which  we 
required.  I  spent  a  considerable  amount  of  time  in  examining  the 
different  streams  and  rivers  which  I  crossed  on  the  way,  but  did  not 
encounter  any  very  serious  obstacle  until  I  reached  the  river  called  the 
"  Hospital,"  which  evidently  took  its  rise  in  the  Tornl  moxmtain,  and 
consequently  ought  to  have  led  me  there.  On  exploring  the  river, 
however,  I  found  it  was  impossible  to  work  my  way  along  its  banks, 
which  were  too  steep  and  precipitous  to  allow  of  one's  following  them 
at  any  height  above  the  stream,  and  a  path  along  the  river  edge  itself 
was  quite  impracticable,  owing  to  the  huge  rocks  and  the  violent  floods 
which  daily  came  down  from  the  mountains. 

In  selecting  which  of  the  two  ridges  which  bounded  the  valley  of 
the  river  on  either  side,  might  be  the  most  practicable  way  to  tlie 
mountain,  I  was  detained  for  upwards  of  eight  days,  because  on  ex- 
ploring the  ridge  on  the  left  bank  I  found  my  progress  interrupted 
after  two  days'  work  by  enonnous  precipices  several  hundred  feet  in 
height,  which  were  quite  impassable.  The  precipices  might,  of  course, 
have  been  scaled,  but  on  penetrating  further  into  the  country  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  keep  up  my  supply  of  provisions  and  my 
communications  over  such  broken  ground. 


I 


sorts  ox  THE  CENTRAL  PROVLN'CES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


267 


I 


Tho  oordillera  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  proved  practicable  for 
several  miles,  but  ultimately  a  point  was  reached  where  it  appeared  at 
first  sight  that  it  had  no  connection  with  the  mountain,  and  it  was  ouly 
by  o))«erving  the  course  of  the  rivers  flowing  on  cither  side  of  the  ridge 
of  hills,  that  I  conld  conclude  that  there  was  really  any  connecting 
ridge  between  their  differnut  watersheds,  which  might  ultimately  lead 
rae  to  the  mountain.  And  here  again,  after  discovering  the  ridge,  I 
found  myself  detained  for  sevei-al  days  in  fruitless  endeavours  to  find 
a  practicable  path.  It  would  api)ear  that  the  entire  western  face  of 
the  mountain  is  nothing  less  than  a  series  of  great  faults,  formed 
undoubtedly  by  the  upheaval  of  the  whole  of  the  cordillera  of  the 
Torru,  and  these  faults  have  not  been  subsequently  smoothed  down  by 
denudation.  It  would  seem  that  the  country  still  preserves  the  rugged 
features  which  those  great  convulsions  imparted  to  it  in  the  first 
inslAnce. 

After  a  series  of  painful  and  tediotis  explorations,  I  was  able  to  reach 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  in  doing  so  I  only  found  one  way  of 
getting  down  a  continuous  piece  of  precipice  apparently  over  a  mile 
long  and  upwards  of  2000  feet  in  height*  In  only  one  place  along  the 
whole  face  of  this  precipice  a  small  landslip  had  occurred,  and  in  the 
broken  rock  the  vegetation  had  taken  sufficient  hold  to  give  us  a  footing 
and  a  holding,  by  means  of  wliich  we  might  descend.  The  western  face 
of  the  Torra  hill  is  a  horseshoe-shaped  amphitheatre  which,  sloping  down 
in  the  first  place  from  the  head  of  the  mountain  for  a  distance  of  half  a 
mile  or  so,  terminates  in  an  abrupt  precipice,  also  of  a  semicircular 
form,  over  which  hundreds  of  streams,  which  collect  their  waters  on  the 
upper  slopes  of  the  hill,  fall  in  silver  threads  to  a  sheer  depth  of  over 
feet,  and  collect  together  at  the  bottom,  forming  the  river  Surama, 
sources  have  been  previously  incorrectly  marked  as  being  on  the 
eastern  flank  of  the  Torra  mountain.  I  found  that  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  distance  traversed  from  Novita,  as  well  as  the  mountain  itself, 
Al>onnded  in  auriferous  quartz  lodes,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  streams 
showed  prospects  of  gold  in  the  alluviums. 

Much  of  the  country,  at  an  elevation  of  3000  to  4000  feet  above  the 
sea,  is  healthy  and  suitable  for  agriculture ;  and  the  schistose  rooks, 
which  are  its  principal  characteristic,  are  not  by  any  means  unfavourable 
to  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  It  would  ho  quite  practicable  to  open  road 
oommuuication  with  the  river  Tamana,  and  if  sufficient  capital  were 
employed,  an  important  mining  centre,  assisted  by  agricultural  establish- 
ments for  the  supply  of  provisions,  might  here  be  formed.  The 
mountain  of  the  Torra  itself  consists  of  clay  slates  and  mica  slates, 
probably  of  Jurassic  age ;  and  the  igneous  rock,  whose  eruption  up- 
heaved this  extraordinary  mountain  m.iS8,  is  a  syenitic  granite. 

A  very  large  proportion  of  the  platinum  produced  in  the  world  is 


258 


NOTES  ON  THE  C£NTKAL  I'KOVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


obtained  from  tho  upper  San  Juan.  If  the  workings  were  syBtematically 
cianied  on,  a  much,  larger  quantity  might  be  extracted.  Its  price  in 
N6vita  is  about  12».  per  ounce  Troy. 

The  betl  of  the  river  Hnu  Juan  and  Its  principal  tributaries  must 
contain  a  large  quantity  of  gold.  Concessions  have  recently  been 
granted  for  working  those  rivers,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  suoceBS  will 
jittend  tho  operations  if  properly  and  practically  carried  out.  Should 
this  happen^  the  river  San  Jxian  will  throw  oft'  its  incognito,  and  its  trade 
will  become  of  great  value  to  tho  Pacifio  Mail  Company,  whose  stetaofim 
call  at  Buenaventura. 

The  Valley  of  the:  Patia. 

The  Patia  is  the  only  river  north  of  the  lino  which,  after  traversing 
extensive  valleys  to  the  east  (or  inside  of)  tho  western  Cordillera  of  the 
Andes,  breaks  through  this  mountain  range  and  finds  its  way  to  the 
Pacific.  Tho  river  Cancel,  which  takes  its  rise  in  tho  same  mountain  as 
the  Patia,  flows  directly  northward,  and  empties  itself  into  tho  Atlantic, 
between  the  central  and  tho  western  cordillera.  Tho  Patia,  after  flowing 
southwards  for  1^0  miles,  turas  abruptly  to  tho  west,  and  seeks  the 
Pacific^  cleaving  a  mountain  chain  which  towers  to  a  height  of  10,000 
to  12,000  feet  on  either  side  of  the  gorge  through  which  the  river  has 
forced  its  passage,  and  which,  up  to  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  ^t, 
gives  no  sign  on  either  hand  that  it  would  allow  of  such  a  liberty  being 
taken  with  it. 

This  peculiarity  in  its  course  gives  great  importance  to  the  Patia 
valley.  It  ofi"ers  a  route  by  which  tho  great  valleys  and  table-lands  of 
the  interior  may  be  easily  reached  from  tho  Pacific  coaat.  It  also 
presents  a  blending  of  climato  from  the  coast  to  the  interior,  which  is 
nowhere  else  to  be  found,  Xaturally,  therefore,  it  ia  characterised  by  a 
special  vegetation  representing  a  zone  intermediate  between  the  hot  and 
perpetually  damp  climate  of  the  coast,  and  the  warm  dry  valleys  of  the 
interior.  It  is  well  known  that  the  upper  parts  of  tho  Patia  valley  are 
rich  in  cinchona,  and  t)io  towns  of  Pjisto,  Tuquerrcs,  Almaguer,  &c, 
which  are  situated  on  the  higher  lands,  lie  in  the  route  taken  by 
travellers.  But  of  the  lower  Patia  valley  nothing  has  been  published. 
I  was  commissioned  in  1868  by  the  Government  of  the  State  of  Cauca 
to  survey  this  river.  I  found  that  if  a  road  Avere  oi>ened  through  the 
passage  o£  the  cordiUera  over  a  length  of  about  30  miles,  it  would 
oompleto  the  road  communication  from  the  interior  down  to  a  point 
from  which  the  river  Patia  was  navigable  for  steamers  down  t«^  tho 
Pacific. 

In  exploring  this  river  to  ascertain  where  it  commenced  to  be 
navigable,  I  was  compelled  to  leave  behind  me  in  the  interior  the 
negroes  who  had  accompanied  me  in  the  cutting  of  the  oxploratorv 
path  by  which  I  surveyed  the  line  of  road,  and  even  my  personal 


« 


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X0TE5  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


259 


■ftBai4hitit.  I  hired  two  negroes  who  were  accustomed  annually  to  make 
the  trip  down  to  the  coast  from  a  littlo  settlement  wliich  they  had  in 
the  woods,  and  where  thoy  lived  by  hunting  and  gold  washing.  In 
order  to  aroid  a  considerable  detour  by  land,  and  also  to  examine  a 
portion  of  the  river  which  was  reported  to  be  quite  impracticable  for 
navigation,  it  was  necessary  that  the  trip  should  be  undertaken  on  a  raft 
whose  dimensions  were  not  permitted  to  exceed  eight  feet  long  by  seven  feet 
w^ide ;  it  was  formed  of  corkwix)d  and  bamboos,  and  I  was  accommodated 
with  a  perch  in  the  centre ;  the  two  negjroea  with  their  bamboo  paddles 

)  took  their  stations  at  either  end«  On  two  ocoasionB  the  negroes  were 
washed  off  the  raft  in  descending  cascades,  and  once  the  raft  was  almost 
wreoked  on  a  hnge  sunken  rock  in  the  centre  of  a  fall  some  10  feet  high, 
«ud  we  had  to  lay  np  to  repair.     In  the  narrow  strait  to  whose  width 

^  the  dimensions  of  the  raft  had  been  limited,  the  current  of  the  river  waa 
not  less  than  18  or  20  miles  an  hour,  and  there  was  barely  a  space  of  a 
ooaple  of  feet  left  on  either  side  of  the  raft  and  the  precipitous  rocks 
which  formed  the  sides  of  the  gorge.  After  reaching,  however,  the 
point  called  El  Salto,  the  navigation  became  very  easy  and,  as  already 
stated,  would  be  practicable  for  steamers  down  to  the  coast ;  and  over 
this  distance  of  more  or  less  90  miles  I  found  the  camping  out  at 
night  on  the  banks  of  the  river  very  interesting  and  on  the  whole 
junusing. 

The  Government  has  not  had  sufficient  means  at  its  disposal  to  carry 
<mt  this  scheme,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  only  natural  entrance 
from  the  Pacific  to  the  interior  of  this  part  of  Colombia  is  viA  the 
Patia. 

The  varied  climate  of  the  Patia  valley,  already  alluded  to,  and  its 
•extrsme  fertility,  enable  it  to  show  an  extensive  list  of  natural  and 
cultivated  vegetable  produce.  That  comparatively  dcUcate  tree,  the 
«scso,  flowishes  near  £1  Castigo,  and  the  vanilla,  a  peculiarly  sensitive 
orchid,  grows  wild  in  the  greateat  luxuriance,  atiording  pods  of  the  finest 
qnality.  Near  El  Oastigo  there  is  a  district  in  which  tlie  quality  of 
the  soil  and  the  special  climato  permit  of  the  cultivation  of  tobacco 
which  rivals  that  of  Havana.  The  coffee  produced  on  the  higher  land, 
say  from  4000  to  6000  feet  above  the  sea,  is  of  fine  quality.  Rare 
balsamic  resins,  such  us  Tacainahaoo  and  Maria  balsam,  are  found  in 
the  lower  valley.  Caoutchouc  is  abundant.  Amongst  the  trees  peculiar 
to  the  special  climate  possessed  by  the  Patia,  varioas  dye-woods  are 
notable,  among  them  a  valuable  species  of  brazdlwood,  first  identified  by 
Professor  Oliver  from  specimens  sent  home  by  me.  My  friend  the  late 
Dr.  Paniel  Ilanbury  took  a  great  interest  in  the  many  samples  of  v^;o- 
•  table  produce  which  I  sent  him  from  these  parts,  and  gave  me  much 
inibrmation  respecting  them. 

l8o  far  the  most  valuable  product  which  has  been  exported  from  tliis 
|;ion,  and  from  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Cauca  valley,  where 


260 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBU. 


the  celotrated  Pitay<5  locality  is  situated,  is  the  cinchona  bark,  but  un- 
fortunately the  tree  ia  rapidly  l>ecoming  extinct.  No  supervieion  is 
exercised  by  the  Government  nor  by  the  owners  of  the  forests  themeelvea 
over  the  labourers  who  are  engaged  in  the  collection  of  the  bark,  and  not 
only  are  the  trees  cut  down,  but  even  the  roots  are  dug  up,  and  thos 
every  chance  of  resuscitation  is  destroyeil.  Cinchona  trees  may,  after 
l>eing  cut  down,  be  induced  to  send  out  saplings  again  if  properly 
treated.  It  seems  fctrango  that,  considering  the  facility  with  which  any 
amount  of  land  may  bo  acquired  in  these  districts,  no  effort  has  ever 
been  made  to  cultivate  the  cinchona  in  its  natural  habitat,  whilst  we  see 
the  great  interest  which  has  been  taken,  and  the  enormous  sums  which 
have  been  spent,  in  endeavouring  to  do  so  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 
I  believe  that  a  company  has  been  occupied  in  this  near  Bogota,  but  it  is 
the  only  instance  1  know  of  in  the  country.  Some  cinchona  bark  ia  still 
sold  in  this  country  under  the  name  of  Piktyo,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  not 
an  ounce  of  bark  exists  in  the  whole  of  that  district,  the  trees  having 
been  completely  destroyed.  The  cacao  trees  planted  near  El  Castigo  by 
a  wealthy  Spanish  slave-owner,  at  the  beginning  of  this  century,  cover 
an  area  of  nearly  100  acres,  and  now  jjresent  quite  the  appearance  of  a 
forest,  many  of  the  trees  being  upwards  of  120  feet  high.  They  still 
bear  fruit  from  their  bases  upwards,  and  the  great  Erith^nait,  which  were 
originally  planted  to  form  the  shade  for  the  cacao,  have  long  since  died  off, 
their  fallen  trunks  lying  amongst  the  surviving  cacao  trees.  Near  thia 
plantation  my  men  obtained  from  a  young  tree  growing  in  the  woods 
25  lbs.  weight  of  dry  cacao  beans  of  very  sujiurior  quality.  The  monkeys 
are  very  fond  of  the  pods,  and  naturally  have  srattercd  the  seeds  through 
the  surrounding  forest ;  and  although  it  is  well  knoAvn  that  the  cacao 
tree  generally  degenerates  when  left  without  cultivation,  this  is  not 
found  to  be  the  case  in  this  district.  Near  the  Miuama  Strait,  a  length  of 
upwards  of  half  a  mile  on  a  precipitous  hillside  ia  covered  with  a  forest 
of  Guayabo  arrayanes — a  Eugenia— in  whii:h  the  trees  are  literally  over- 
burdened with  the  vanilla  orchid,  whose  long  creeping  roots  hang  down 
from  the  branches,  and  positively  offer  an  ubstaele  to  one*8  passage  through 
the  woods.  The  perfume  from  this  forest  on  a  fine  day  scents  the  valley 
for  a  considerable  distance.  The  strait  of  I^Iiuama  is  in  itself  quite  u 
remarkable  feature  in  the  valley.  The  river  Patia  at  this  point,  as  may 
be  seen  by  the  map,  drains  a  wide  area  of  countrj%  and  receives  an 
abundant  supply  of  water  from  tlie  snowy  i-angea  of  the  central  Andes ; 
its  volume  is  many  times  greater  than  that  of  the  Thames  at  Eichmoud. 
The  river,  before  entering  the  strait,  comes  to  rest  in  an  immense  pool 
surrounded  by  cliffs  of  slate  rock,  from  which  it  finds  an  exit  through 
a  cleft  which  is  not  more  than  12  feet  widp,  and  through  which  the 
water  moves  with  a  barely  perceptible  current.  This  fissure  therefore 
must  be  of  great  depth. 

Coal  of  excellent  quality  is  abundant  throughout  the  up}>er  PatiA 


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NOTES  ON  THE  CESTKAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


261 


■  the 


valley.  Copper  mines  are  found  near  San  Pablo.  The  river  Patia  itself 
is  rich  in  gold,  and  in  the  dry  season  the  negroes  wash  out  a  considerable 
quantity. 

The  route  by  which  travellers  usually  cuter  the  couutry  is  by  way 
of  the  port  of  Barranquilla,  at  the  mouth  of  the*  Magdaleua  river. 
Steamers  run  up  the  river  as  far  as  Honda,  and  at  Nttre  the  road  to  the 
interior  of  Antioquia  brauches  off.  Five  days*  journey  from  Nare  on 
juale-back  brings  the  traveller  to  Medelliu,  and  this  route  is  certainly 
the  right  one  to  follow  if  the  state  of  Antioquia  is  to  be  visited.  A 
Ivfuy  is  in  course  of  ci  instruction  by  Mr.  Cisneros  froDi  Puerto  Bcrriu 

the  Magdalena  to  Medellin,  but  only  about  30  miles  have  been 
opened,  and  the  rest  of  the  route  is  traversed  by  a  mule  road  about  as 
long  as  that  from  Nare. 

The  port  of  Buenaventura,  on  the  Pacific  coast,  is  called  at  twice  a 
month  by  the  English  steamers  from  Panama.  A  good  mule-road  leads 
from  the  port  to  Cali,  in  the  Cauca  valley,  and  a  railroad  is  being  con- 
structed, also  by  Mr.  Cisncros,  following  more  or  less  the  same  line. 
From  Buenaventura  to  Cdrdolm,  a  distance  of  12  miles,  the  railway  is 
now  open,  and  at  the  latter  place  mules  have  to  be  hired.  A  day  and  a 
half's  riding  brings  one  to  Cali,  and  from  this  city  any  part  of  the  State 
r  of  Oauoa  may  be  reached  by  luule-roads.  It  would  be  quite  possible  to 
tnake  a  trip  from  England  to  the  Cauca,  visit  all  the  principal  points  of 
interest,  and  return  iD  five  months,  at  an  expense  not  exceeding  200/. 
The  traveller  should  always  purchase  his  saddle  and  Imggage-mules  for 
the  trip;  for  even  if  ho  sells  them  at  a  loss,  this  will  be  but  small  as 
compared  with  what  he  might  pay  in  mule  hire.  There  is  no  danger 
whatever  to  health  in  such  a  journey  as  this.  Buenaventura  is  the 
only  unhealthy  part,  and  the  traveller  need  only  stay  a  few  hours 
there.  When  40  miles  up  the  countrj-  from  the  port  the  climate  would  bo 
found  delicious,  and  the  city  of  Cali  itself  is  3300  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. 

I  surveyed  the  road  from  Buenaventura  to  Cali  in  1806,  ond  again  in 
1878  I  laid  out  some  45  miles  of  the  railroad  now  iu  coui-se  of  construc- 
tion, and  although  the  work  of  surveying  in  a  valley  like  that  of  the 
river  Dagua,  which  the  road  follows,  was  very  arduous,  I  was  never  ill. 
The  railroad  will  without  doubt  be  completed,  as  the  portion  of  line 
:  now  open  produces  a  considerable  revenue,  and  the  company  is  thus  at 
;  mo  loss  for  funds.  More  than  three- fourths  of  the  import  and  export 
trade  of  the  state  of  Cauca  pass  over  the  line. 

This  lovely  country,  with  its  tropical  vegetation,  its  grand  cordil- 
leras,  and  its  famed  volcanic  mountains,  is  really  as  easy  to  visit  as 
India ;  and  as  regards  the  language,  tlie  traveller  would  always  dnd  the 
neoeesary  Spanish  easy  to  loani,  whilst  in  the  towns  he  would  meet  ^vith 
^H   plenty  of  people  speaking  English  and  French. 


I 
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262 


NOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIX 


From  Call  to  Popajan,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Cauca,  is  a  threo 
days*  ride,  and  from  the  latter  city  most  interesting  cxcnreions  may  be 
made. 

ITie  ascent  of  the  Tolcano  of  Puraco  is  quite  easy.  A  ride  of  six 
hours  fmia  Popayau  takes  onB  to  the  Benii-Iudian  village  of  Puraoe. 
The  country  traversed  is  picturesque,  and  the  hill  of  Pisog^,  formed  of 
columnar  basalt,  out  of  which  in  old  limes  the  Indians  carved  their 
sacred  statues,  is  well  worth  a  passing  visit.  An  introduction  to  the 
Indian  chief  of  Purace  will  procmro  the  traveller  the  greatest  attention* 
Mutton,  good  bread  made  of  the  whoaten-flour  of  the  district,  potatoes, 
and  arracachas  (a  tuber  not  unlike  the  parsnip),  may  be  had  at  veiy 
low  prices.  Stiirdy  little  mountain  ponies,  well  used  to  make  the  ascent 
with  the  Indians,  who  bring  down  the  snow  for  sale  to  Popayan,  are 
to  be  hired  at  cheap  rates.  If  it  is  proposed  to  pass  a  night  on  the 
mountain,  tho  traveller,  in  addition  to  his  tent,  should  provide  himself 
with  plenty  of  firewood  and  diy  hay,  with  which  a  shelter  may  be 
extemporiaed  and  a  fairly  luxurious  bed  made  up,  even  on  the  ground. 

On  a  fine  day  tho  excursion  to  tho  edge  of  tho  crater  may  be  made 
from  Purace  in  the  daj-,  but  only  a  part  of  the  grand  views  which  the 
moxintain  commands  can  be  seen,  as  it  is  necessary  to  go  round  to  oppo- 
site eides  of  the  crater  to  see  them  all^  and  this  takes  some  time.  Dr. 
Stubel  and  myself  passed  a  night  hero  above  enow-level,  at  an  elevation 
of  14,400  feet,  with  a  gale  of  wind  blowing.  Our  Indians  all  ran 
away :  otir  two  servants  were  bo  benumbed  wi^  cold  that  we  had 
to  stow  them  away  in  a  cleft  in  an  old  lava  streanij  and  leave  them. 
After  three  hours*  hard  work  wo  managed  to  put  up  our  little  tent, 
securing  it  with  extra  lines  moored  to  blocks  of  lava,  which  we  had  to 
roll  down  to  their  places.  We  could  then  only  find  part  of  our  pro- 
visiona,  and  as  we  were  famished  we  made  a  perhaps  too  hearty 
supper  of  sardines  and  bread,  without  anything  to  drink.  We  were 
too  tired  to  make  beds,  and  slept  sitting,  leaning  against  some  baggage. 
At  two  in  tho  morning  we  were  so  thirsty  that  I  wont  out  to  collect 
some  snow,  and  had  to  go  a  long  way,  as  the  greater  part  was  con- 
taminated with  sulphur.  I  thought  myself  well  repaid  for  my 
trouble  by  the  splendid  view  of  tho  volcano  at  night.  There  was  an 
almost  full  m<x}n  shining,  the  gale  had  cleared  tho  sky,  and  occasional 
clouds  drifted  across  tho  crags  and  ravines  of  the  mountain's  flank 
giving  glimpses  of  the  beautiful  landscapes  thousands  of  feet  below, 
which  appeared  the  more  brilliantly  illuminated  as  the  dark  shadows  of 
the  clouds  formed  their  settings.  Sometimes  the  valleys  round  the  base 
of  the  mountain  were  filled  with  clouds,  leaving  the  snowy  towering  cone 
to  reflect  tho  moon's  light  against  a  background  of  sky  of  the  deepest  bine. 
The  "  solfataras  "  roimd  tho  cone  growled  a  dismal  echo  to  the  howling 
blasts  which  swept  past  as  if  in  search  of  something  more  impressionable 


NOTES  OX  THE  CENTRAL  I'ROVISCES  OF  COLOMBIA, 


363 


moTmtaina  of  lava  upon  which  to  wrouk  their  fury.  It  was  a 
wonderful  scene,  one  which  was  worth  coming  far  to  see,  and  I  thiak 
that  a  night  or  two  spent  on  the  mountain  in  order  to  seize  the  most 
&Toiirable  moments  for  seeing  its  sights  would  always  be  the  proper 
programme  for  the  traveller  to  adopt. 

Due  wwt  of  Popayan,  in  the  western  cordillera,  there  is  a  prominent 

mountain  called  the  Cerro  Mouchiquo,  which  is  so  situated  that  it  com- 

aands  a  more  extensive  prospect  than  any  other  that  I  know  of.     Dr. 

Stubel  and  I  ascended  this  mountain  in  18G8,  to  make  some  observations. 

Fe  found  its  summit  to  be  9892  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  we 

litehed  our  tent  uj>on  the  very  top.     Our  supply  of  water  was  obtaineii 

,  thftt  which  colleota  at  the  base  of  the  leaves  of  the  BromeUas  which 

Kiund  in  these  cordilleras,  for  the  hill  rises  so  abruptly  on  every  side, 

tiat  there  are  no  streams  within  reasonable  distance  of  the  summit. 

Standing  on  this  mountain,  by  simply  turning  oneself  round,  ono 
Duld  obtain  a  view  over  more  than  15,000  square  miles  of  oountrj^ 
The  whole  of  the  central  cordillera,  from  the  frontier  of  the  Ecuador  to 
the  confines  of  the  State  of  Antioquia,  with  the  valleys  of  the  Cauca 
and  the  Patia,  were  visible  to  the  north,  east,  and  south ;   whilst,  on 

I  turning  to  the  westward  the  Pacific  coast  from  the  bay  of  Tumaco  to  the 
Pftouth  of  the  San  Juan  river  seemed  spread  out  like  a  map  before  us. 
A  more  gorgeous  panorama  cannot  well  bo  imagined.      The  belts   of 
bright-coloured  vegetation,  marked  by  the  valleys  with  their  winding 
pi  vers  and  streamB,  wore  backed  by  the  great  massos  of  the  cordillera 
with  their  varied  tints  and  snow-capped  peaks.     On  the  other  hand,  the 
dark-hued  vegetation  of  the  virgin  forests  of  the  Pacific  slopes  stretched 
own  to  the  ocean  margin,  which  with  its  thousand  bays  and  inlets  and 
age  of  foam  which  was  quite  visible,  looked  like  an  edging  of  lace, 
island  of  Gorgona  could  be  distinctl}'  seen.     A  fair  mule-road  leads 
urn  Popaj'un  to  tlic  base  of  the  mountain,  and  the  ascent  may  be  made 
foot  in  one  hour.     The  CeiTo  Munchiquo  should  be  visited  in  tiie  drj' 
a,  for  its  peculiar  prominence  makes  it  a  grand  lightning  conductor, 
I  we  clearly  saw  from  the  shattered  rock  on  the  summit. 

kFrom  a  numerous  series  of  observations  of  the  mean  temperatures  at 
ifferent  altitudes   in   the    cordilleras,   collected    from  a  groat  many 
beervers,  I  have  formed  a  table  of  mean  temperatures  corresponding  to 
,  series  of  altitudes  from  sca-level  up  to  16,400  feet  in  height,  which 
will  be  found  very  generally  applicable  over  the  whole  of  the  Colombian 

I  territory.  These  mean  temperatures  are  derived  from  observations  made 
OfQ  distinct  systems,  but  as  a  rule  the  temperature  of  the  earth,  in  a  part 
■heltered  from  the  sun  and  rain,  at  a  depth  of  30  inches  from  the  surface 
M  the  gTOund,  will  represent  in  these  latitudes  the  mean  temperature  of 
Ihe  locality.  In  tropical  regions,  where  vegetation  is  not  exposed  to 
great  variatiooB  of  temperature,  the  most  important  point  to  which  the 


264 


NOTES  OX  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA. 


agriculturist  should  look  is  the  mean  temperature,  if  he  would  ji 
correctly  of  the  climate  of  any  locality.* 

In  some  parte  extraordinary  changes  of  temperature  are  observed,  but 
in  others  there  is  remarkable  uniformity.  Where  the  proximity  of  deep 
and  hot  valley's  to  high  mountainous  ranges  induces  sudden  reversals  of 
the  currents  of  air,  great  variations  are  met  with ;  when,  on  the  other 
hand,  elevated  table-lands  are  snfficieiitly  removed  from  the  valleys  and 
the  monn tains  to  receive  a  more  equable  distribution  of  the  atmospheric 
currents,  an  extraordinary  unifornjity  inevails.  Near  the  ToiTa  moun- 
tiiin,  at  an  elevation  of  0700  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  greatest 
difference  between  tho  maximum  and  tlio  minimum  thermometers 
during  eight  days  was  only  9  degrees  of  Fahr.  The  quantity  of  ozone 
varies  in  a  remarkable  way,  being  sometimes  greatest  where  one  would 
least  expect  to  meet  with  it,  and  sometimes  excessivoh''  abundant  without 
there  being  any  apparent  cause.  Near  Popayan,  in  the  village  of  Silvia, 
Dr.  Stubel  and  myself  wore  surprised  to  find  ozone  papers  colour  to  tho 
highest  degree  on  the  scale  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  and  bearing  witness, 
as  we  could,  to  the  invigorating  air  of  this  district,  we  really  felt  dis- 
posed to  ascribe  its  effects  to  the  extraordinary  abundance  of  ozone. 

In  taking  observations  of  the  altitudes  of  tho  western  cordillera  when 
engaged  on  the  Buenaventura  road  in  1 86G,  I  was  at  first  very  much 
put  out  to  find  that  tlie  best  hypsometrical  formulie  did  not  give 
accurate  resultw.  These  1  had  the  meauH  of  testing  by  the  levels  which 
were  being  taken  for  the  constrnction  of  the  road,  and  which  reached  a 
height  of  7000  feet  above  tho  level  of  the  sea.  I  had  a  long  corre- 
spondence with  the  late  Professor  Rankino  upon  this  subject,  and  in 


n 


•  Table  ok  Meax  TEMPEnATrRES  in  the  U.S.  of  Colomliia,  bctwcea  2"  aud  6^  N.  Ut, 
compiled  fmm  observationa  by  Humboldt,  CulJae,  BousHiiigjiIt,  Mobquero^  Bcifis, 
Stiibol,  mid  Wlate. 


Hdgbt  a1»vo 
Sea-levi'L 

0-DO 
820 
1,G40 
2,400 
3,2S0 
4,100 
4,920 
5,740 
6,560 
7.380 
8,200 


Ttraiwrdture, 
Fabr. 
S2'4^ 
80-4 
78-4 
76 '3 
74-3 
71-2 
68-0 
C5-3 
|j2-e 
59-9 
57-2 


Ilelgtbt  tAm^v 

Mean 

T«iippr*titri». 
haht. 

9,020 

55-4'' 

D,840 

53-6 

10,GGO 

50-9 

1I,4S0 

48-2 

12,300 

45-5 

l.S,120 

42-8 

13,940 

40-1 

]4,76(t 

37-4 

15^580 

b2-0 

10,400 

no -2 

Tho  menu  iu  Ihe  greater  Bltitudes  varies  somewhat  nccoiding  to  the  grealer  or  lest 
extent  of  anow-covered  mouutnins,  fiud  in  the  kaacr  altitudes  tljc  teraperatare  ie  affected 
by  tbe  open  or  incluHed  cbnrackr  rf  lb ;  rallers  and  by  tbo  presence  or  absence  of 
yegetnlion.  Genomlly,  however,  it  will  be  found  that  the  nbove  meauB  nre  BoffioieDtly 
Dear  the  truth  to  be  of  practical  ulility. 


NOTES  OK  THE  C£XTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA.— DISCUSSION.        265 

1868  had  the  further  benefit  of  the  aesist-anco  of  Drs.  HeiBs  and  Stubel 
in  completing  the  modiScations  which  were  found  noccBsary  in  the  for- 
mnlie.  I  have  found  that  hyjisoinetrical  observations  of  altitudee  can 
be  mjule  as  accurately,  and  perhaps  more  accurately,  than  with  the 
ItMOometer,  hut  as  it  would  be  tedious  t^  enter  into  an  explanation  of 
th«se  calculations  here,  1  purpose  to  fnrniah  the  meteorological  depart- 
ment of  the  Society  with  the  tables  which  I  employ,  hoping  that  they 
may  be  found  of  use  to  travellers  in  tropical  countries. 

In  estimating  the  practical  importance  of  those  districts  of  Colombia 
of  which  this  paper  treats,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  Colombia  is, 
with  the  exception  of  Chili,  the  best  governed  of  the  South  American 
republics.  Property  is  thoroughly  respected,  the  laws  are  fairly  admi- 
nistered, foreigners  are  welcomed  and  protected,  and  every  inducement 
is  held  out  to  attract  foreign  capital. 

The  trade  of  this  country  has  been  confined,  through  peculiar  cir- 
cmnBtances,  to  particular  channels,  and  it  is  really  surprising  that 
so  much  of  its  produce,  particularly  of  gold  and  silver,  should  be  im- 
ported monthly  into  England  without  the  general  public  being  aware 
of  it.  The  natives  generally  are  verj'  unwilling  to  trj^  new  experiments 
with  respect  to  the  agents  and  channels  which  they  employ  for  trans- 
acting their  business  with  Europe;  and  thus,  although  the  country 
attracted  considerable  attention  immediately  after  it  had  gained  its 
independence  from  the  Spanish  rule,  no  enterprises  of  any  moment  were 
undertaken  by  Europeans,  owing  principally  to  the  jealousy  with  which 
pre-exifttiug  interests  were  guarded.  These  remarks  do  not  apply,  of 
course,  to  the  Government  of  the  countr}-,  which  has  always  been  ready 
to  afford  every  facility  for  the  introduction  of  foreign  capital  and  foreign 
labour,  recognising  ixa  it  does  the  requirements  of  the  country  in  these 
reepecta. 

I  have  been  over  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  since  the  works  on  the  canal 
were  inaugurated,  and  as  an  engineer  I  hold  the  opinion  that  the  canal 
may  be  made  if  the  money  holds  out,  and  I  see  no  reason  to  fear  a  break- 
down in  this  direction.  The  details  of  the  work  may  require  modi- 
fication. This  undertaking  alone  imparts  a  special  merit  to  those 
neighbouring  countries  whose  produce  and  natural  advantages  may 
be  turned  to  account  during  the  construction  of  the  canal  or  upon  its 
completion,  and  hence  I  venture  to  think  that  a  certain  importance  may 
be  attached  to  the  brief  sketcli  of  the  imperfectly  known  parts  of 
Colombia  which  I  have  given,  apail  from  the  special  merits  per «  which 
each  district  possesses. 

The  PsKBinKXT,  before  the  reading  of  the  foregomg  paper,  said  that  Mr.  White  had 
resided  for  Beventeen  consecutive  years  iu  the  coantry  which  he  was  about  to  describe, 
and  which  was  bo  little  known  in  Euglaod.  The  name  of  New  Granada  had  loog 
betsn  faraiUar  to  Englishmen,  but  the  name  only.  The  last  European  travellerHhcre 
wboM  works  were  at  all  read,  was  Alexander  von  Humboldt,  but  he  only  parsed 

No.  v.— May  1883.]  t 


266        NOTES  ON  TKP:  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOJIBlA.—DlSCUSSIOJi. 


through  the  country  from  soulh-eOBt  to  north-west,  leaving  to  his  left  the  haga 
district  which  was  the  suhject  of  Mr,  White's  paper.  The  country  was  one  of  Tery 
great  interest,  deep  valleys  with  the  lofty  Andes  ou  eithtjr  aide,  rich  in  various  pro- 
ductions of  Datore.  Of  all  the  South  American  States  formed  out  of  the  ruin  of  (hr 
great  Spanish  colomiil  crapiro,  New  Granada  was,  next  to  Chili,  iho  one  that  w«fc 
running  the  most  respectable  and  prosperous  career.  In  raost  of  those  state* 
revolutions  were  frequent,  but  New  Granada  had  been  comparatitoly  free  from 
them. 

After  the  japer: — 

Mr.  0.  K.  Mabkham  said  that  in  the  list  of  Honorary  Corresixjnding  Mcmbent 
of  the  Society  there  appeared  no  name  belonging  to  Colombia,  and  yet  no  other 
country  in  South  America  had  produced  so  many  eminent  scientific  men,  and 
historical  and  botanical  geographers.  The  first  geographical  description  that  hmi 
been  given  of  the  country,  was  that  written  by  Don  Pedro  de  Cieza  de  L«on,  who  in 
1640  landed  there  as  a  young  soldier  of  sixteen  years  of  age.  lie  was  dotcrroiaed  to 
describe  lo  his  countrymen  in  Spain  and  to  the  world  at  large,  not  only  the  histoiy 
■of  the  conquest,  but  the  geography  of  the  regions  through  which  he  paased*  and 
while  his  comrades  slept  he  wrote  down  on  any  scraps  of  paper  he  could  get,  wimt 
he  bad  seen  during  the  day.  The  Viceroys  who  subsequently  went  out  to  Niicva 
Granadji  were  also  diligent  in  collecting  topographical  inforraatioti,  and  SeflorGnrcift- 
y-Garcia  had  lately  edited  their  reports.  In  the  time  of  Charles  III.,  Dr.  Mutis  ira* 
sent  to  Colombia,  and  remained  there  for  many  years,  training  up  a,  number  of 
young  natives  to  tr.ivel  over  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  not  only  collect  and  draw 
the  diflerent  plants,  which  was  their  primary  work,  but  also  to  obtain  geograi>ldcal 
information.  Htmdreda  of  sketches  of  plants,  and  dried  specimens  were  sent  li> 
Madrid  by  the  Spanish  General  Murillo,  and  when  he  (Mr.  Markham)  was  in 
Madrid,  ten  years  ago,  he  found  a  cat  and  kittens  making  their  nest  among  the 
papers.  It  was  one  of  the  most  melancholy  sights  that  he  ever  saw.  SeHor 
Zea  was  well  known  to  botanists,  and  SeKor  Caldas  also  left  many  manuscriptiB 
isehind  hini.  SefSor  Kestrepo  was  a  s;eographer;  Colonel  Acosta,  wlio  was  a  {(immL 
topographer,  had  written  an  admirable  history;  Seiior  Triana  wa»  a  botanist 
of  Euroi>ean  reputation  ;  and  a  former  President  of  Colombia,  General  MoE<iuera, 
published  a  valuable  work  on  the  geography  of  his  country,  and  when  in  England 
in  18G5,  in  the  days  of  Sir  Ttoderick  Murchison,  attended  one  of  our  meetings  and 
took  jmrt  fu  discussion  on  New  Grannda.  Coloinbians  had  thus  nmnifesteii  great 
interest  in  the  physical  couformation  of  their  native  land,  and  he  hoped  when 
Uonoraiy  Membors  of  the  Society  were  selected  the  Kepublic  of  Colombia  would 
uot  b«  forgotten.  Mr.  White  would  be  able  to  advise  them  as  to  who  among  the 
emment  scieutilic  men  and  iuLclligeut  explorers  of  Colombia,  was  the  most  worthy 
to  receive  that  lionour  from  the  Society.  Colombian  botanists  had  done  valnable 
work  for  g(.ogra]ihy,  and  ho  ho[)ed  that  some  day  it  wouM  be  seen  what  geogm]thers 
could  do  lor  history.  When  Aint^rica  was  discovered  there  were  three  great  civilisa- 
tirms  on  the  tablelands  of  the  Amies — the  Aztecs  in  Mexico,  the  Incas  in  Feni, 
and  the  Chibchas  or  Muyscus  in  Colonibia.  The  history  of  the  conquest  of  Mexico 
and  Peru  and  interesting  accounts  of  the  civilisation  of  the  aborigines  had  be«n 
written  by  the  master  hand  of  Prescott ;  but  there  was  an  equally  romantic  story 
touching  the  conquest  of  Colombia,  where  there  was  du  almost  equally  interet^tiog 
native  civilisation,  which  had  bet-n  described  in  chronicles  and  by  mtidern  Spanish 
writera,  but  had  never  been  written,  in  English,  as  the  history  of  Pern  and  Mexico 
had  been.  No  doubt  it  would  be  done  somo  day,  and  (he  future  writer  would  have  the 
great  adv.antage  of  possessing  more  perfect  knowledge  of  the  geography  of  Colombia 
than  Prescott  could  have  of  Peru  iu  the  days  when  he  wrote  his  history.     By  the 


KOTES  ON  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES  OF  COLOMBIA.— DISCUSSION'. 


267 


explorations  aud  descriptioos  of  such  men  as  Mr.  While,  historians  were  able  to  give 
greater  interest  to  thdr  narratives,  and  accurate  topographical  dcacriptions.     In  that 

|Wfty,  as  in  many  others,  geographers  were  useful  to  other  sciences  and  to  literature, 
nth  reference  to  the  physical  conformation  of  the  mountains,  they  must  all  hav« 

^heea  ftruck  by  the  statement  that  the  western  cordillera  of  tlio  Andes  was  one  un- 
broken wall  from  Darien  to  the  southern  end  of  Patagonia,  with  only  one  break — 
the  Patia.  That  waaa  most  extraordinary  thing,  and  was  not  found  in  any  other 
gtwtt  range.  The  Himalayas  were  broken  through  tlie  outer  line  in  many  places, 
and  even  in  the  central  line  by  the  ludua,  the  Sutlej,  and  the  Brahmaputra. 
The  western  Cordilleras  were  only  broken  in  one  place  or  possibly  two,  counting 
the  river  Santa  in  Peru,  which  flowed  for  150  miles,  and  then  broke  through  the 

^cmnge  and  reached  the  coast.      That,  ho%vever,  was   not  so  clear  a  case,  for  the 
Qta  does  not  penetrate  so  far  eastward  as  the  river  falling  into  Tumaoo  Bay. 

fjfr.  White  had  confined  himself  to  the  slopes  on  the  western  side  of  the  EaRtera 

I  Andna,  and  had  said  nothing  of  the  va^t  interior  of  the  liepublic  within  the 
Amasonian  btuiu.  So  that  in  addition  to  the  immense  amount  of  extremely 
interesting  inforroation  which  he  had  given  in  the  paper,  he  hnd  also  shown  that 
there  was  in  that  region  a  very  great  deal  remainiu^i;  to  be  discovered. 

The  Presidbht  said  that  Mr.  Clements  Markham,  whose  knowledge  of  the  old 
SpitaMh  literature  relating  to  the  conquest  and  occupation  of  South  America  by  the 

^SpaaiaHs  was  so  well  known,  and  who,  from  his  knowledj»o  of  the  region  and  of  the 
Spanish  language,  had  been  able  to  contribute  to  Eogliah  literature  so  much  that 

'  Visa  valuable,  hsul  shown  that  a  great  deal  had  been  done  by  the  natives  of  Colombia. 
But  the  information  which  they  had  given  was  not  generally  accessible  to  the  public, 

^and  therefore  they  must  thank  Mr.  White  very  much  for  bringing  before  them  in  such 
i  clear  and  graphic  manner  the  physical  features  of  so  interesting  a  country.     He 

^bad  shown  them  that  Colombia  was  one  of  those  regions  which  in  the  future  would 
probably  be  peopled  by  a  vast  industrious  population.  They  had  heard  of  gold- 
mines and  of  rich  valleys,  the  agricultural  wealth  of  which  was  still  undeveloped,  of 

|tbe  canal  that  was  being  made  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  and  taking  all  these 
tbingH  into  account  he  thought  there  would  be  little  doubt  that  the  country  would^ 

fin  the  course  of  another  generation,  be  as  familiar  to  Englishmen  as  the  best  knowu 

Ipurtions  of  the  South  American  continent  at  the  present  time.     Something  of  the 

f  aort  was  needed  to  make  South  America  interesting  to  English  audiences.     During 

i  the  time  that  ho  had  held  the  presidency  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 

|liotbing  liad  staick  him  as  being  more  curious  than  the  intense  and  extraordinary 
aterest  taken  in  the  elucidation  of  every  portion  of  Africa,  and  the  comparatively 

'  little  interest  taken  in  South  America.  It  was  useless  to  speculate  upon  the 
reasons,  but  such  was  the  fact.  There  was  a  sentimental  interest  attaching  to 
Africa  which  could  not  be  aroused  with  regard  to  South  America.  Possibly  it  wa« 
due  to  the  fact  that  South  America  was  already  in  the  hands  of  European  races; 
wbereas  Africa  offered  a  large  field  to  the  ambition  of  European  powers,  and  at  the 
present  time  certain  portions  of  that  continent  were  being  coolly  occupied  by 
European  powers  as  if  the  natives  had  no  right  whatever  there.     For  this  reason 

Ltbey  were  doubly  thankful  to  Mr.  While  for  having  called  their  attention  in  so 

f  effective  a  manner  to  a  country  whose  physical  character,  products,  and  population 
were  so  interesting. 

Mr.  R.  B.  Whitk  in  thanking  the  Meeting  for  their  kind  reception  of  his  paper, 
called  attention  to  the  six-cimens  of  the  minerals  of  the  country  which  he  had  placed 
on  the  table.  They  consisted  of  gold  and  silver  ores,  principally  from  Antioquia, 
coal  from  tlio  Patia,  the  Cauca,  and  the  Nechi  valleys,  copper  ores  from  the  Atrato 
and  Cauca  valleys,  a&d  lead,  sine,  mercury,  and  manganese. 

T  2 


Further  Exptoraiicns  in  the  Mashuna  Gouninj,    By  F.  C.  Selous. 

Mr.  F.  C,  Selous  since  his  rcttini  io  South  Africa  haa  reeumeJ  hi» 
adventuroua  exph>ratiou8  in  the  little-knowu  region  between  the  Mata- 
bele  settlements  and  the  Zambesi.  He  has  sent  us  the  following  brief 
accoTint  of  a  journey  he  made  in  1882,  a  little  to  the  east  of  that 
descriWl  by  him»  and  pulilishcd  in  the  '  Proceedings '  for  1881,  p.  352, 

I  UAVE  made  a  short  journey  of  exploration  this  year,  having  crossed 
the  country  from  the  npper  Ilanyane  to  the  Zambesi  near  the  month  of 
the  river  Umsengaisi,  following  thence  the  sonthorn  bank  of  the 
Zambesi  to  Zumbo,  and  then  striking  back  again  to  my  camp,  keeping 
pretty  close  at  first  to  the  Hanyane,  and  never  going  very  far  away 
from  it  until  finally  crossing  it  when  I  made  for  my  camp.  According 
to  all  the  recent  maps  I  have  seen,  particularly  that  of  Mr.  Baiues,  little 
or  nothing  appears  to  bo  known  regarding  the  physical  geography  of 
this  part  of  Africa,  so  I  bavo  taken  the  liberty  of  sending  you  the  little 
sketch  map  1  have  made  of  my  trip.  Supposing  that  the  position  of 
Lo  Magondi's  town  (Mr.  Baines'  furthest  point  north  in  tbo  Mashuna 
country)  is  correctly  placixl  on  the  map  and  that  the  position  of  Zumbo 
is  also  correct,  then  all  the  intermediate  places^  rivers,  Ac,  marked  on 
my  map  cannot  be  very  far  wrong.  I  was  very  much  surprised  to  find 
the  mouth  of  tho  Panyame  placed  on  all  maps  to  the  west  of  Zumbo, 
whereas  it  really  runs  into  the  Zambesi  at  least  15  miles  as  the  crow 
flies  to  the  east  of  that  place,  as  T  have  marked  it.  I  suppose 
Drs,  Livingstone  and  Kirk  travelled  along  the  northern  bank  of  the 
Zambesi.  You  will  see  that  the  great  mountain  chain  of  Umvukwe 
forms  a  watershed ;  all  the  rivers  running  from  its  northern  slope  flow- 
ing into  the  Hanyane,  as  tho  TJmquaai,  Mutiki,  &c.,  or  else  into  the 
Zambesi  to  the  west  of  Kebrabasa,  as  the  Umsongaisi.  All  tho  waters 
flowing  from  the  southern  slope  of  the  Umvukwe  must  ran  into  the 
river  Maze,  I  only  followed  tho  Umvukwe  a  certain  distance,  as  you 
will  see  by  my  map,  but  as  far  as  I  could  learn  from  tho  natives  it  runs 
right  down  to  the  ZamWsi  at  Kebrabasa.  I  have  marked  the  rivers 
Umqnaai,  Mutiki,  Maburc,  Umpinge,  and  Dande,  each  running  separately 
into  the  Hanyane. 

It  is  poesihlo  that  some  of  them  join  before  reaching  tho  Hanyane, 
though  1  think  not.  Tho  rugged  mountains  to  the  west  of  Umvukwe 
rise  like  a  wall  in  an  almost  straight  lino  running  east  and  west,  from 
the  Zambesi  valley.  The  first  range  must  rise  sheer  1000  feet  from  the 
plain.  The  country  between  tho  mountains  and  the  Zambesi  is  perfectly 
flat  or  slightly  undulating  and  covered  with  mopani  forests,  and  very  drj'. 
From  the  Hanyane  right  down  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains  water  is 
moat  abundant,  hut  below  them  the  Umsengaisi  and  Panyame  and  all 
their  tributaries  become  broad-beddod  sand-rivers  with  little  or  no  water 


I 


^ 


mimiDg  into  the  Fanyame  near  its  confluence  with  the  Zambesi,  the 
Vo-ang-wa.  It  is  a  broad  sand-river  over  300  yards  wide,  with  not 
much  water  above  the  surface.     Tlio   whole  of  the  country  travelled 


270 


FURTHER  EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  MASHUNA  COUNTBV. 


through  was  more  or  less  thickly  peopleil  by  MaBhunas  or  alliet 
At  Inyambare  and  other  places  they  had  large  herds  of  cattle* 
the  mountains  the  tsetso  fly  are  11;  mill  ions  and  we  were  rer 
annoyed  by  their  incessant  bites.  I  had  seven  Kafirs  with  mo 
journey,  wliich  was  a  very  fatiguing  one,  as  we  had  to  make  ( 
through  the  moat  rough  and  rugged  mountains  imaginable.  Ga 
very  Bcarco  too,  so  I  had  to  live  principally  on  ground-niuta.  At 
there  were  five  whites  (Portuguese)  and  they  treated  m 
hospitably.  So  far  both  I  myself  and  my  Kafirs  were  all  well, 
we  had  all  got  very  thin  and  weak  from  the  perpetual  bitef 
swarming  tsetse  flies.  From  the  Zambesi  to  the  foot  of  tl 
took  us  three  very  hard  days'  walking,  the  heat  of  the  sun  being 
Water  was  also  very  scarce  and  on  the  third  night  wo  slept 
that  essential,  all  of  ua  being  very  thirsty.  The  fourth  day  we  a 
the  mountaifia  and  on  the  Rummit  of  the  first  range  got  a  s] 
water.  This  was  also  a  terribly  hard  day,  climbing  range  afte 
of  rugged  pathless  mountains ;  though  towards  evening  we 
through  the  worst  of  them,  the  country  remained  very  rough  ui 
the  Hanyane«  That  evening  I  was  seized  with  a  violent  a 
fever,  the  result  of  fatigue  and  exposuro  to  the  sun  when  weak 
the  tsetse  fly.  I  had  no  medicine  whatever,  nothing  buf 
handfuls  of  rice,  and  was  very  far  away  from  any  help  and  ii 
difficult  country  to  walk  through.  As  however  we  had  not  yet 
the  fijst  Mashunas  it  was  either  a  case  of  lie  down  and  die  or 
For  four  days  I  pushed  on,  though  exceBsively  ill ;  then  two  of  ni 
also  fell  sick.  We  had  then,  however,  reached  some  Mashuni 
Here  I  remained  fur  seven  days  and  I  never  thought  I  sho 
through,  as  I  was  as  bad  as  possible  and  had  only  rice  to  eat 
medicine.  On  the  eighth  day  I  got  a  little  better  and  pushed  0 
and  in  the  middle  of  September  at  last  reached  my  wagg 
Umfule. 


m    * 


valua 


We  have  reproduced  Mr.  Selous'a  interesting  and  vaT 
without  adding  any  features  from  other  sources,  or  even  chan| 
position  of  Zumbo,  on  the  Zambesi,  which  certainly  lies  a  fe 
further  south  (according  to  Livingstone  in  lat.  15°  37')  and  per] 
miles  further  to  the  west.  A  comparison  with  the  Society's  larg 
Eastern  Equatorial  Africa,  sheet  24,  will  at  once  show  where  M 
differs  from  preceding  explorers,  not  only  on  the  Zambesi  but  al 
Mashuna  country.  These  difi'erences  are  most  considerable 
Zambesi.  The  Zingesi  of  the  Society's  map  is  clearly  Mr. 
Umsengaisi,  but  the  Panyame  does  not  join  a  short  dietanc 
Zumbo,  but  a  oonsiderable  distance  below  that  place,  where  no 
all  was  observed  by  Livingstone.  More  curious  still,  the  regie 
south  of  the  river  is  described  now  as  a  vast  plain,  whilst . 


TBE  DELTA  AND  LOWER  COURSE  OF  THE  SABI  RIVER.  271 

were  led  to  believe  it  to  be  hilly.  Mr.  Selous  shows  very  distinctly  the 
inner  edge  of  the  annular  plateau  which  seems  to  surround  the  great 
basin  of  inner  Africa,  and  through  clefts  in  which  the  Zambesi  and 
other  rivers  find  their  way  to  the  coast.  The  tract  between  the  upper 
Ilanyane  and  the  Zambesi  has  never  before  been  crossed  by  a  European 
explorer. 


Tlie  delta  and  lower  course  of  the  8dbi  Biver,  according  to  the  survey 
of  the  late  Captain  T.  L.  Phipson-Wyhrants. 

The  accompanying  map  is  taken  from  one  drawn  with  great  labour 
and  precision  by  the  late  Captain  T.  L.  Phipson-Wybrants  while  on  his 
late  fatal  journey,  of  which  we  have  already  given  a  brief  account  in  the 
obituary  notice  of  this  adventurous  traveller  in  the  *  Proceedings '  for 
1881,  p.  288.  The  map  embraces  a  portion  of  the  course  of  the  Sabi 
river,  together  with  the  determination  of  the  mouth  of  that  stream,  the 
position  of  Chiluan  Island,  and  a  delineation  of  the  intermediate  and  ex- 
tremely indentated  coast-line.  This  district,  it  may  be  remembered,  was 
visited  by  Mr.  St.  Vincent  Erskine  during  his  third  journey  into  the 
Gaza  country  in  1878-4,  when  he  partially  explored  the  delta  of  the 
Sabi  and  passed  through  several  of  its  channels,  including  the  Maoow 
branch.  Starting  from  Inhambane,  Mr.  Erskine,  after  spending  some 
time  at  Chiluan,  made  his  way  southward  from  the  latter  point  to 
the  entrance  of  the  Sabi,  and  thence  along  its  right  bank  for  upwards  of 
a  hundred  miles,  thus  pursuing  a  similar  course  to  that  taken  by 
Captain  Wybrants.  That  Mr.  Erskine's  exploration  left  much  to  be 
accomplished,  however,  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  the  delta,  tribu- 
taries, &c.,  of  the  river  were  laid  down  in  his  map  (of  which  a  reduc- 
tion appears  in  the  February  number  for  1882  of  Potennann's  *  Geogra- 
phische  Mittheilungen  *)  in  dotted  lines,  while  the  country  on  either  side 
is  left  almost  a  perfect  blank.  The  careful  surveys  of  so  accomplished 
an  observer  as  the  late  Captain  Wybrants  will  therefore  add  greatly 
to  our  geographical  knowledge  of  this  little  known  district.  Both 
the  course  and  delta  of  the  river  as  laid  down  by  Captain  Wybrants 
differ  widely  in  several  respects  from  those  given  by  Mr.  Erskine. 
In  the  firbt  place,  Captain  Wybrants  makes  the  whole  of  the  Sabi, 
including  the  southern  portion  of  its  delta,  10  miles  further  east 
than  Mr.  Erskine;  and  though  this  difference  is  not  so  great  in  the 
northern  portion,  it  extends  even  there  to  five  miles.  The  size  and  shape 
of  the  islands  in  the  delta  and  windings  of  the  river,  again,  he  shows  to 
vary  considerably  from  those  given  by  Mr.  Erskine,  in  whoso  map, 
indeed,  many  of  them  are  hardly  distinguishable  at  all.  This  applies 
particularly  to  the  southern  part  of  the  delta,  where  the  greatest 
difference  occur.    With  regard  to  latitude  there  is  in  the  north  not 


272 


THE  DELTA  AND  LOWER  COURSE  OF  THE  SABI  BIVER. 


TIIE  DELTA  AND  LOWER  COURSE  OF  THE  SABI  RIVER. 


273 


much  variance ;  bat  tlie  sonthem  portion  of  the  delta  and  the  whole 
oourse  of  the  river  are  now  ehowTi  to  \m  about  five  miles  further  north 
than  they  are  made  to  appear  by  Mr.  Erskine. 

The  Sabi  is  repreAented  by  Captain  Wy brants  as  flowing  into  the 
by  tlireo  principal  channels: — One  to  the  north,  called  the 
another  to  the  south,  the  Sedika ;  and  the  third  or  central  one, 
which  is  divided  by  an  island  into  two  branches,  the  northerly  bearing 
the  name  of  the  Indyanduge,  and  the  southerly  constituting  the  main 
entrance  to  the  Sabi.  There  is  also  a  smaller  channel,  the  river 
lugiilulu,  running  north  and  south   and  dividing  the  larger  central 

.  uUnd  of  the  delta  into  two  parts. 

From  the  apex  of  the  delta  and  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  a  con- 
adeiable  area  is  occupied  by  the  Machanga  district,  inhabited  by  the 
Tongas,  subjects  of  Umzilu.  Here  Captain  Wybranta'  party,  who  had 
with  them  a  large  quantity  of  materiel,  were  greatly  inconvenionoed  by 
the  impossibility  of  obtaining  guides  or  bearers  without  the  express 
authority  of  the  king,  whose  kraal  is  situated  about  250  miles  distant 
(nearly  due  west)  upon  a  tributary  of  the  Sabi.  Whilst  waiting  for  this 
permission.  Captain  Wybrants,  accompanied  by  a  few  mem- 
f  his  party,  started  up  the  river  in  his  steam  launch,  on  November 
3rd,  1880.  Owing  to  the  extreme  shallowness  of  the  water  and  the 
prevalence  of  sandbanks,  however,  he  found  navigation,  even  with  a 
light  craft,  so  difficult  as  to  be  almost  impracticable ;  while  the  current 
proved  of  such  force  that  his  baggage  raft  which  would  have  saved  many 
additional  bearers,  liad  to  bo  altogether  abandoned.  The  character  of  the 
river  at  the  outset  was  extremolj^  uninteresting  and  monotonous,  its  bed 
consisting  of  a  flat  expanse  of  eand,  averaging  a  mile  across,  traversed 

'  by  a  narrow  and  scrpentiiio  channel  some  200  yards  wide.  At  Mapcia's 
kraal,  shown  on  the  map,  a  halt  of  several  days  was  made,  but  the  stay 
was  not  a  particularly  agreeable  one  as  the  whole  district  is  infested 
with  moequitos,  and  the  heavy  dews  falling  at  night  during  this  season 

I  drench  the  traveller  like  rain.  Leaving  Mapeia'a  the  course  of  the  Sabi 
becomes  increasingly  tortuous,  and  the  shallows  growing  more  numerous 
as  the  party  ascended,  the  launch  had  to  be  incessantly  dragged,  pushed, 

lor  even  unloaded,  until  deep  water  could  be  gained.     The  scenery  hero 

I  had  become  somewhat  more  enlivening ;  the  banks  were  thickly  studded 
with  clusters  of  small  kraals,  and  around  these  pastured  large  herda  of 
Umzila's  cattle,  guarded  by  the  district  chiefs.  Islands  occuired  alMjut 
every  half-mile  in  the  course  of  the  river,  and  the  interminable  and 
hitherto  unsightly  stretches  of  sandbank  were  now  generally  diversified 
by  long  fringes  of  dark-foliaged  trees.  Higher  up  an  abundanoo  of 
limestone  was  met  with,  the  bed  of  the  Sabi  having  become  excee<lingly 
rocky,  while  its  banks  rose  to  a  height  of  100  to  200  feet.  This  district 
is  an  exceptionally  fertile  one ;  large  fields  of  tobacoo  and  niama  (native 

^com)  being  constantly  observed  under  cultivation*     The  natives,  the 


274 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882. 


Mangi,  are  described  bj  Captain  Wybratita  as  a  good-tempered  and 
intelligent,  though  physically  poor  and  stunted  race. 

lieturning  to  Mapeia's  on  the  10th  November^  Captain  Wybrant* 
determined  next  day  to  leave  tho  Sabi  and  strike  inland  for  Umzila's 
kraal.  Pursuing  a  north-'tv'est  direction^  the  elevation  of  tho  country 
increasing  sousibly  as  they  advanced,  stages  of  about  15  miles  a  day 
brought  tho  party,  sttooessively,  to  Masundi's  kraal,  Unitonto  Quenga 
(where  the  ant  plague  was  so  intolerable  that  the  native  huts  had  to  be 
abandoned  for  tents),  and  finally,  some  50  miles  further  on,  to  Maconpi's 
kraal,  four  days  from  Umzila. 

On  the  journey  a  fair  supply  of  duck,  muHCOvy  giX)fto  (^excellent 
eating),  guinea-fowl,  and  buck  was  obtained ;  and  buffalo,  lion,  and  wilde- 
beest wore  seen.  Here,  also,  the  fatal  tsetse-fly  first  made  its  appearsnceu 
Pombo  was  tho  native  drink,  very  good  of  its  kind ;  but  water  was 
scarce,  and  found  at  very  infrequent  intervals.  The  flora  compriaes 
bamboo,  fan-palm,  and  the  <|uagga-tree,  the  fniit  of  which  is  dried  by 
tho  natives  like  the  date,  the  skin  being  eaten  and  the  stones  made  into 
oil,  of  which  they  contain  a  largo  quantity. 

At  Macoupi's  the  rains  set  in,  and  Captain  Wybrants,  harassed  by 
the  delays  imposed  in  consequience  of  the  insufficient  notice  which  had 
been  given  of  his  arrival,  and  attacked  by  fever  and  sun-stroke,  suo* 
cumbed,  after  a  brief  but  distressing  illness,  on  November  29th,  1880. 

Tho  death  of  their  leader  produced  a  complete  disorganisation 
amongst  tho  party  which,  consisting  of  about  100  native  bearers  and 
several  Englishmen,  was,  with  the  baggage  and  pending  Umzila'g 
permission  to  advance,  encamped  at  Machanga  under  tho  cbarge  of 
Dr.  Ward  Carr,  m.d,,  f.e.q.s.  The  latter  gentleman,  recovering  from  an 
attack  of  fever,  had,  upon  the  news  of  his  leader's  death,  experienced  a 
relapse;  and  it  having  become  necessary  for  him  to  lance  an  nicer  in 
his  heel,  tetanus  set  in,  and  he  died  in  the  greatest  agony  on  February 
14th,  1881, 


4 


4 


4 


A  Visit  to  Corea.,  in  October  1882, 
By  J.  C.  Hall,  Acting-Consul,  Nagasaki* 

NAOAflAXi,  Dtcember  llfA,  18S2. 
Sin, — Herewith  I  have  the  honour  to  lay  before  you  some  notes 
oliservations  made  by  mo  during  my  late  visit  to  Han-Yang,  or  Sonl,  th* 
capital  of  Corea,  and  to  that  one  of  its  few  coast  approaches  at  present 
in  the  occupation  of  the  Chinese  forces,  known  as  Nam- Yang  harbour,  or 
Ma-sam-pho. 

•  Abridged  Erom  Mr.  llall'ti  Rejjort  to  Sir  Harry  Parkea,  H.M.  Minister  in  Japan^ 
eommunicuted  to  the  Society  by  Uie  FoTei^  Office. 


4 


A  VISIT  TO  CORRA,  IN*  OCTOBER  1882. 


275 


I 


'e»  Majesty's  survoying-ship  Flyitig  Fish^  under  the  command  of 
.nt  Hoskrn,  whoso  guest  I  was,  left  Nagasaki  on  the  otli 
October,  and  sailing  up  along  the  west  ooast  of  Corea^  anchored  in  Nam- 
Tang  harbour  in  the  afternoon  of  the  9th.  As  we  came  along,  and 
while  changing  from  one  anehoring-ground  to  another,  I  had 
opportunity  of  observing  the  difficulties  that  beset  navigators  in 
theso  waters  on  approaching  the  shore.  To  begin  with,  along  its  whole 
•stent  the  west  coast  of  Corea  is  hedged  in  by  a  fringe  of  islands  so 
tluekly  olustbred  together  that  a  glimpse  of  the  mainland  can  be  obtained 
only  at  rare  intervals  through  gaps  iu  the  fence.  In  the  next  place. 
the  sea  around  these  islands  and  along  the  shore  of  the  mainland  is  so 
■hallow  that  thousands  of  Bquaro  miles  of  mud-flats  are  left  bare  by  the 
filU  of  tho  tide.  Again^  the  rise  of  the  tide  is  abnormally  high, 
•▼eraging  close  upon  30  feet,  thus  necessitating  the  utmost  caution  iu 
navigating  and  a  constant  use  of  the  lead.  This  high  tidal  wave,  again, 
OMUes  a  strong  tidal  current.  The  flood-tide  rushes  in  like  a  mill-race, 
and  the  ebb  flows  out  with  scarcely  less  velocity,  exceeding  thrco  knots 
an  hour.  To  these  constant  sources  of  difficulty  each  of  the  seasons 
brings  its  own  addition.  In  the  bright  spring  and  autumn  weather 
there  is  much  mirage,  in  the  summer  months  dense  fogs  prevail ;  in 
winter  a  sheet  of  ice  forms  along  the  coast.  It  seems  probable  that 
these  natural  conditions  of  the  west  coast  of  the  peninsula  have  had  a 
largo  share  in  predetermining  the  exclusive  policy  of  the  Oorean  p€H>ple. 
It  is  certain  that  they  have  powerfully  aided  that  policy.  The  failures 
of  both  tho  French  naval  expedition  of  1866  and  of  the  American 
expedition  of  1871  wei*e  due  solely'  to  difficulties  of  navigation. 

The  swiftly-flowing  tide  scours  out  channels  for  itself  here  and  there 
through  the  vast  exjjanse  of  mud-banks,  especially  in  the  narrow 
paasages  between  tho  mainland  and  the  adjacent  islands.  In  this  way 
the  existing  harbours  and  anchorages  have  evidently  been  formed.  The 
anchorage  of  Nam-Yang  is  a  good  typical  instance.  At  high  tide  it 
looks  like  a  wide  and  commodious  harbour.  At  low  water  it  is  seen  to 
be  merely  a  nairow  channel  furrowed  by  tho  strong  tidal  current  flow- 
ing over  the  m^id-flat.  It  lies  between  the  main  shore,  north  of  Cape 
Ghanoine,  and  a  group  of  islets  east  of  Taibu-do,  or  Le  Barbier  de 
Tinan.  It  is  about  four  miles  long,  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad, 
and  its  average  depth  in  mid-channel  is  under  four  fathoms.  It  is  so 
shallow  towards  the  sides  that  there  is  not  room  for  two  ships  to  swing 
abreast  unless  they  were  both  moored  head  and  stern.  The  breadth  of 
the  mud-bank  on  the  mainland  side  at  low  tide  varies  from  a  quarter 
to  half  a  mile.  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  place  is  not  an  eligible  site  for 
a  trading  settlement. 

Notwithstanding  the  foreshore  of  mud-flats,  the  appearance  of  the 
lino  is  bold  and  hilly,  the  valleys  between  the  high  grounds  form- 
inlets  of  the  sea.    The  height  of  the  bluffs  and  headlands  ranges 


276 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBEil  1882. 


from  aboet  200  to  GOO  or  800  feet.  At  their  base  the  hills  OOOWrt 
mainly  of  trap-rock  and  granite  ;  their  upper  portion  is  a  reddish  clay, 
of  a  very  light  and  porous  texture,  easily  furrowed  by  tlie  rains.  Their 
surface  is  mostly  covered  with  a  coaree  hardy  grass  and  weeds,  but  large 
bare  patches  are  not  unfi'equent.  There  is  a  striking  scarcity  of  trees, 
not  only  on  the  coast,  but  also  in  the  interior.  A  stunted  fir,  averaging 
less  than  four  feet  high  on  the  coast  hills,  and  about  eight  or  10  feet  on 
the  more  sheltered  slopes  inland,  seems  to  be  the  only  tree  that  flourishes 
iu  this  part  of  the  country,  and  even  that  is  by  no  means  abundant 
Upon  this  scanty  stock  of  stunted  fir- wood  the  inhabitants  are  mainly 
dependent  for  their  supply  of  fuel.  The  under  branches  are  carefully 
lopped  off,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  further  growth  of  the  tree.  AVhon 
dry,  both  leaves  and  branches  burn  like  touchwood,  being  highly 
resinous.  This  fuel  seemed  to  bo  the  staple  of  the  only  coasting  trade 
I  could  see.  The  junks  that  passed  us  going  northwards,  probably  to 
the  capital,  were  laden  with  it.  Those  going  southwards  were 
empty. 

On  the  northern  end  of  the  islet  which  flanks  the  middle  of  Nam- Yang 
harbour  stands  a  small  village  consisting  of  nine  houses,  built  in  the  usual 
Corean  fashion,  that  is  to  say,  of  mud  walls  thatched  with  straw.  This  was 
the  first  spot  of  Corean  soil  on  which  1  landed,  and  vaj  first  observations 
were  directed  to  tho  comparison  of  this  with  a  Japanese  village  of  the 
same  sort.  As  the  evidence  of  language  and  of  racial  characteristica 
shows  the  Japanese  and  Coreans  to  be  kindred  peoples,  I  thought  it  not 
improbable  that  some  ti-aces  might  still  be  diaceniible  of  their  original 
common  cult.  In  Japan,  notwithstanding  the  predominance  of  Buddh- 
ism for  many  centuries,  tho  centre  and  Bymbol  of  unity  of  every  village 
commune  is  the  saiut's  shrine  at  which  tho  guardian  spirit  of  the  place 
is  worshipped,  the  visible  rei>rosentatiou  of  the  Divinity  being,  instead 
of  a  graven  image,  a  bundle  of  shreds  or  strips  of  white  paper.  Close  to 
this  Corean  village,  the  name  of  which  I  cotild  not  ascertain,  I  discovered 
the  analogue  of  tho  Shinto  shrine.  It  stood  in  the  centre  of  a  small 
grove  of  low  fir  trees,  on  the  bluff  forming  the  northern  end  of  the  islet, 
about  200  yards  distant  from  the  village.  It  consisted  of  a  straw  hut  in 
the  form  of  a  bee's  skep  or  cone,  about  nine  feet  high,  and  of  tho  same 
diameter  at  tho  base.  Facing  the  east  was  a  triangular  opening  about 
three  feet  high.  Crouching  down  on  my  hands  and  knees,  I  was  about  to 
enter  to  explore  tho  inside,  but  tho  Coreans  who  had  followed  me  took 
hold  of  my  sldrts,  and,  with  signs  of  perturbation  and  alarm,  prevented 
me.  By  gestures  they  signified  that  if  I  were  to  enter  I  should  surely 
die.  I  at  last  obtained  their  permission  to  crouch  down  and  peer  in  from 
the  outside  without  entering.  There  was  very  little  to  see ;  the  ceiling 
was  formed  of  rough  poles  laid  across  and  sloping  towards  tho  back,  the 
average  height  from  tho  ground  being  barely  four  feet.  At  tho  back, 
facing  the  aperture,  tied  to  one  of  the  ceiling -poles,  hung  a  bundle  of 


4 


4 


.\   \  IMT  TO  rOHEA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882. 


277 


ii 

I 


stripe  of  white  paper,  the  iinraistakablo  counterpart  of  the  Japanese 
"Go-hei." 

A  short  distADce  from  the  village,  in  the  opposite  or  southern  direc- 
tion, and  giniilarly  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  small  firgi^ove,  stood  a  hut 
about  feix  feet  square,  the  sides  of  which  were  formed  of  coarse  wicker  and 
straw ;  a  thick  straw  mat  suspended  by  a  rope  formed  the  dot>r ;  the 
roof  was  of  mud  and  tiles.  This  was  the  Buddhist  temple.  Turning  up 
tlie  door-mat  I  went  in,  having  first  obtained  the  ready  asscmt  of  the 
Coreaus.  A  rough  stone  imago  alxmt  three  feet  high  of  a  Buddhist  saint, 
in  the  usual  sitting  posture,  vdth  a  square  stone  in  front,  was  all  the  hut 
oontained.  About  half-a-dozen  cash  lay  on  the  stone.  When  I  added  a 
few  copper  coins  the  Coreans  were  very  much  amused. 

I  have  been  the  more  |mrticular  in  describing  these  two  religious 
pdifines,  in  that  they  were  the  only  ones  of  the  kind  I  saw.  In  passing 
the  villages  along  the  road  to  the  capital  I  kept  a  sharp  look-out  for 
anything  resembling  a  shrine  or  temple,  but  saw  none.  Just  outeide 
Xam-Yang-pu,  indeed,  there  was  a  large  inclosure  with  tile-roofed  build- 
ings, which  we  took  to  be  a  Buddhist  moruistery,  but,  with  this  exwption, 
there  were  in  the  villages  no  visible  evidences  of  the  existence  of  any 
religion.  Neither  in  the  country  nor  in  the  capittd  did  we  see  a  cassock 
or  a  shaven  pate.  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  the  vast  stiperiority  of 
Japanese  to  Corean  civilisation  is,  in  the  main,  due  to  the  influence  of 
Buddhism. 

The  houses  of  the  Corean  country  people  are  miserable  mud  hovels 
thatched  with  straw.     In  each  house  there  is  one  inner  room,  with  a 
raised  floor,  under  which  the  smoke  and  heated  air  from  the  cooking- 
earth  pjifises  to  a  low  vent,  or  chimney,  at  the  back.     The  apartment 
;hu8  warmed  is  the  sleeping-room  of  the  family.    It  is  dimly  lighted  by 
a  paper-covered  aperture  in  the  mud  wall.     It  contains  no  furniture 
hatever,  and  is  generally  so  small  that  it  is  a  wonder  that  several 
irsons  can  sleep  in  it  without  being  suffocated,  especially  as  there  are 
no  apertures  for  ventilation,  and  the  trap-door,  about  three  feet  square,  is 
kept  shut  during  the  night.     The  portion  of  tho  house  outside  this 
eeping  compartment  contains  a  mud  fireplace,  in  which  a  shallow  iron 
•t  is  fixed  for  cooking.     This  iron  pot,  a  few  coarse  crockery  jars,  some 
wicker  Ijaskets  and  calaboshes,  or  gourd  bowls  and  dishes,  constitute)  the 
whole  of  the  household  furniture.     There  were  no  signs  of  any  middle 
»r  well-to-do  class.    Those  who  were  not  cultivators  were  officials,  and 
tlie  bulk  of  the  people  seemed  to  lie  living  just  above  starvation  point, 
provided  with  tho  barest  necessaries  of  life. 

On  the  llth  October  I  wont  up  with  two  officers  of  the  Flying  FUh 
Che-mul-pho,  where  Hor  Majesty's  ship  Champion  was  lying  at  anchor, 
and  next  day  visited  the  island  of  Yong-jong  and  called  upon  tlie  chief 
ofiScial.  The  Yamen,  or  Government  House,  u  situated  in  the  middle 
of  the  island.     I  counted  fifteen  civil  officials  in  the  courtyard,  and 


278 


A  VISIT  TO  fX)nEA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882. 


there  were  about  a  dozen   soldiera  besides.     Here,  as  elsewhere, 

official  tjlement  seems  to  be  very  large  in  proportion  to  the  popnlation. 
The  island  is  well  wooded  and  cultivated,  and  a  good  road  of  over  thiee 
miles  long  connects  the  Yamen  with  the  landing-place.  At  sevenl 
placcH  along  this  road  stone  tablets  were  erected,  with  iuBcripikms 
stating  that  they  had  been  set  up  by  a  grateful  people  in  everlasting 
reraembrance  of  the  clement  administration  of  such  and  such  a  governor. 
One  such  tablet  was  made  of  iron,  and  I  subsequently  saw  two  or  three 
others  like  it  at  Su-\V(in-pu.  They  were  cast-iron  slabs  about  two  inches 
thick,  apparently  of  good  workmanship  as  regards  evenness  of  surface 
and  flawlessncBs  of  the  inscriptions,  but  a  ragged  seam  all  along  the 
edges  showed  that  tho  moulding  had  been  wanting  in  accuracy  and 
finish.  These  monumental  slabs  were  about  the  only  indications  1  saw 
of  the  existence  of  iron  or  of  the  knowledge  of  working  it,  and  the  use 
)nade  of  it  is  characteristic  of  Corcan  civilisation.  So  scarce  is  iron 
in  tho  practical  arts  that  it  is  not  used  even  in  shipbuilding.  Coreau 
junks  and  boats  are  fastened  together  with  wooden  pegs. 

About  middaj'  on  the  18th  October  we  started  for  SouL  It  was  low 
.water,  and  after  getting  out  of  tho  boat  we  had  to  wade  up  to  tho  ankles 
over  half-a-mile  of  mud  to  reach  the  pier  at  the  Chinese  landing-place. 
This  pier  was  constructed  by  the  Chinese  troops  on  their  first  arrival. 
The  fixed  portion  of  it,  running  out  from  the  land,  is  made  of  fir  poles 
driven  into  the  mud*  to  form  the  sides,  about  12  feet  apart,  and  the  same 
distance  from  pole  to  pole.  On  both  sides,  between  each  pair  of  poles, 
another  pole  is  lashed  lengthwise,  and  across  the  line  of  parallel  beams  thus 
formed  is  laid  a  causeway  of  short  battens  till  strongly  lashed  down  to 
the  beams,  and  tho  footway  thus  formed  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  earth- 
This  wooden  pier  is  nearl}'  300  feet  long.  Then  there  is  a  floating 
extension  of  it,  nearly  the  same  length,  formed  by  lashing  bamboos 
together  as  a  raft,  each  length  of  raft  overhanging  the  one  in  front  of  it, 
and  the  whole  being  strongly  moored  on  both  sides  to  withstand  the 
sweep  of  the  tides.  All  the  timber  and  bamboo  used  in  the  constniotioii 
of  this  pier  came,  of  course,  from  China  with  the  troops. 

On  the  hill  above  the  pier  stands  a  small  earthen  fort,  thrown  up  by 
the  Chinese  to  protect  their  communications  with  their  ships.  It  is 
garrisoned  by  100  men.  Close  to  this  fttrt  is  the  Coroan  village  of 
Ma-sam-pho,  consisting  of  thirty-three  houses,  I  had  several  oppor- 
tunities of  seeing  tho  nature  of  the  relations  subsisting  between  the 
villagers  and  the  troops.  They  were  as  good  as  could  be  desired.  The 
behaviour  and  discipline  of  the  soldiers  were  exemplary.  I  saw  Corean 
women  fearlessly  pursuing  their  work  in  the  fields  as  the  soldiers  passed 
to  and  fro,  neither  party  taking  notice  of  the  other.  Elsewhere  the 
women  in  the  fields  fled  like  hunted  deer  on  noticing  our  approach, 

From  the  fort  a  ride  of  three  hours  brought  us  to  Nam-Yang-pu,  our 
halting-place  for  the  night.  Though  dignified  with  tho  appellation  of 
"  Pu,"  or  city,  it  is  merely  a  large  village,  unwalled,  containing  about 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBEK  1882.  279 

300  houses.    Our  inn  w&g  in  a  small  inclosure  opposite  the  Fu-sa^s 

Yamdn.     It  was  a  small,  bare,  and  dirty  edifice,  Imdly  out  of  repair. 

There  is  no  house  in  Corea,  so  far  as  I  conld  see,  tit  for  a  European  to 

ive  in.     The  natives,  both  officials  and  people,  were  very  civil  to  ns, 

it  pestered  ua  sadly  by  their  curiosity.   Next  day^we  rode  to  the  Pu  of 

9a-w)dn.     This  is  a  walled  city  with  im])08ing'  stone  gateways  at  either 

ad,  and  containing  over  lOOQ  houses.     Here,  as  atiNam-Yang-pu,  a  de- 

ament  of  Chinese  troops  were  in  possoseion  of  the  place,  and  evidently 

Toin  excellent  terras  with  the  people.   On  the  roadside  near  the  gates  a  few 

pedlars'  stalls,  containing  such  trifles  as  wooden  combs,  Corean  pipes, 

tobacco-pouches  c»f  oiled  paper,  tiny  looking-glasses  of  Ja|)anese  make, 

was  all  the  city  could  show  in  the  wfty  of  commerce  or  a  market.     Here 

and  there  along  the  streets  a  small  quantity  of  eggs,  fruit,  vegetables, 

•ulphur^tipped  touchwood,  and  straw  shoes  were  exposed  ou  a  lx>ard  fw 

ale,  but  no  such  thing  as  a  shop  was  to  bo  seen. 

Next  day  we  rode  on,  halting  at  noon  at  Kwa-ch'hon,  a  straggling 
illnge  of  about  200  houses,  ranking  in  Corea  as  a  town.  Five  miles 
orth  of  this  the  road  crosses  the  Ilan-gang  or  Si'ml  river.  As  wo 
in  the  ferry-boat  we  indulged  in  the  luxury  of  a  liathc  in  the 
swiftly-flowing  stream.  The  Coreans  never  tub,  and,  with  the 
«KOeption  of  a  bath  we  had  at  the  Japanese  Legation,  this  wns  the  only 
good  wash  wo  got  during  our  trip.  The  river  here  is  about  200  yanls 
broad,  full  of  shoals  and  sandbanks,  but  its  former  bed,  of  dry  sand  and 
lingle,  is  fully  a  mile  across.  Soul  lies  al»out  a  mile  and  a  half  north 
k  river  bed.  We  reached  it  alxnit  three  in  the  afternoon.  Some 
Ids  of  Coreans  lined  the  rt»ftds  as  we  passed  through  the  subnrbe, 
ad  an  escort  of  thirty  Corean  soldiers,  unarmed,  met  us  about*  half  a 
"■^le  fVom  the  city;  as  we  neftred  the  walls  there  was  a  great  deal  of 
ahooting  and  signs  of  a  popular  commotion.  After  being  detained  about 
half  an  hour  in  a  narrow  side  street  we  had  to  make  a  detour  to  the 

»«a8t,  and  cross  over  the  range  of  hills  running  south  of  Soul,  in  order  to 
^each  the  Chinese  camp  outside  the  east  gate  of  the  city.  This  waa 
because  the  feeling  of  the  populace  waa  opposed  to  our  being  allowed  to 
mtcr  the  city  through  the  great  south  gate.  A  toilsome  climb  and 
descent  brought  us  at  nightfall  to  General  Wu's  head-quarters,  a  large 
Confucianist  temple  and  inolosure  called  Tong  Myo. 

The  distance  from  Ma-sam-pho  to  Soul  is.  as  ntarly  as  w-p  p. mid 
Jculate,  about  47  miles.     The  stages  are : — 

■Mil.*. 

Lianding  pier  to  Nam-Yang<pu II 

Nam-Yang-pu  t«i  Su-woQ-pu       .. H 

Su-wiin-pu  to  Kwaoh'hon  .,      ..      15 

KwB-ch'htin  to  river 5 

Dry  be^l  of  river 1 

£iver-beU  to  fioul 1} 

*7i 


28(^ 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882. 


From  the  landinj^-pier  to  Su-w6n-pu  the  road  runs  Dearly  due  east, 
from  Su-wcin  to  the  capital  nearly  due  north.  About  a  milo  aud  a  halt 
west  of  Nam-Yang-pu  the  road  is  crossed  by  a  long  inlet  from  the 
whioh  makes  a  moraBS  about  a  quartor  of  a  mile  broad^  acroBS  which  a  \ 
large  mud  ditch  has  been  run  to  protect  the  footway.  Between  Nam> 
Yang-pu  and  Su-wiin-pu  the  road  is  somewhat  better,  attaining  the 
dimensions  of  a  moderately  good  bridle-path.  From  Su-won-pu  for 
about  five  miles  the  road  is  a  goc/d,  well-made  highway,  about  30  feet 
broad,  with  willow-trees  at  both  sides^  reraiuding  one  somewhat  of  the 
Tokaido  of  Japan.  For  the  remainiug  10  miles  to  Kwa-eh'hon  the 
breadth  is  about  12  feet,  and  the  ground  hard  or  soft  according  as  it 
skirts  the  hills  or  croeaos  the  paddy-fields.  From  Kwa-ch*h5n  to  the 
river  the  road  ia  very  uneven,  ragged,  ami  rock}',  studded  with  granite 
lumps,  especially  where  it  crosses  a  gap  over  the  spur  of  a  hill,  about 
600  feet  high,  rather  more  than  a  mile  south  of  the  river. 

The  aspect  of  the  country  traversed  by  this  roundabout  road  from 
the  coast  to  the  capital,  though  varied  by  Alternations  of  hill  aud  valley, 
is  bare  and  uninteresting.  Trees  are  very  scarce,  the  population  very 
sparse,  and  the  only  tillage  is  in  the  valleys.  Hills  and  slopes,  which  in 
Japan  would  be  terraced  and  cultivated  to  thtjir  tops,  are  left  waste  in 
graBs,  or  at  most  dotted  here  and  there  with  grave-mounds.  The 
villages  are  few  and  small,  generally  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  close 
to  a  patch  of  wood.  Kioe  seems  to  bo  the  principal  crop,  next  to  it 
comes  millet,  then  beans  and  barley.  There  are  some  cotton-ficlda  also, 
and  dose  to  every  village  a  large  quantity  of  red  pepper-chilis  are 
grown.  Chilis  are  the  principal  condiment  in  Corean  cookery,  and  are 
used  with  indiscriminate  liberality  in  nearly  every  dish.  I  was  sur- 
prised at  the  abundance  of  the  castor-oil  plant,  and  was  told  it  was  all 
re<iuired  for  medicine.  Gourds  are  trained  over  the  roofs  of  the  hnte  for  \ 
the  supply  of  howls  and  dishes.  The  only  green  crops  I  saw  were  the  i 
lettuce-like  pickling  cabbage  and  the  large  ivhite  radish ;  the  only  fniit 
persimmon.  There  is  no  abundance  of  anything  in  the  country  except 
magpies. 

Among  the  most  interesting  of  the  sights  to  bo  seen  along  the  route 
are  the  road-posts  and  the  grave-mounds.     At  very  irregular  intervals 
wooden  posts  are  set  up  at  the  roadside  to  indicate  the  distance  from  the 
capital.     But  the  inscriptions,  which  are  on  the  lower  .and  dirtier  portion,  i 
are  in  most  cases  illegible,  being  written  with  the  ordinary  Indian  ink,  i 
which  is  soon  obliterated  by  the  rain.     They  are  therefore  useless  as 
guide-posts.     But  they  are  meant  to  be  ornamental  as  well,  for  the  top 
part  is  always  rudely  carved  into  a  hideous  imitation  of  the  human  face,  i 
and  below  this,  in  large  characters,  whe}0  the  topographical  informa-l 
tion  ought  to  be,  is  the  mysterious  inscription,  "Generalissimo  of  the! 
Empire."     They  arc  mostly  to  be  found  in  groups  of  from  three  to  seven  ' 
or  eight  together,  in  graduated  stages  of  decomposition,  the  old 


A  nSTT  TO  COREA,  IX  OCTOBER  1882. 


381 


evidently  being  allowed  to  remain  when  a  new  one  is  set  tip»    There  is 
probably  some  superstitious  reason  for  their  non-removal. 

The  Chinese  superstition  of  funtj-ghtn  or  geomancy,  is  universal  and 
deeply  rooted  in  the  Corean  mind,  and  the  object  round  which  it 
oontrea  is  the  tomb.  Yet  there  are  no  inclosed  cemeteries  to  be  seen ; 
much  less  graveyards  contiguous  t«>  temples,  as  there  are  in  Japan; 
nor  do  the  Coreans  bury  within  the  boundaries  of  a  tilled  field,  as  is  so 
often  done  in  China.  For  a  Corean's  grave  the  only  propitious  situation 
is  on  a  hill.  The  aid  of  a  geomancer  and  of  divination  is  always 
called  in  for  the  selection  of  the  proper  spot.  A  circular  mound,  about 
five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  two  or  three  feet  high,  marks 
the  place  of  sepulture.  Except  in  the  case  of  nobles,  there  is  no 
tombstone,  no  epitaph,  no  distinguLehing  mark  of  any  kind.  Close  to 
the  dry  bed  of  the  Uan-gang,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Su-won  road, 
there  is  a  spur  of  a  hill  which  is  deemed  a  particularly  propitious 
site  for  interments,  and  its  whole  surface  is  studded  with  thousands 
of  Boch  grave-mounds,  as  like  one  another  as  peas,  and  as  thickly 
clustered  together  as  it  is  possible  to  crowd  them,  and  not  one  of 
them  marked  by  any  tombstone,  inscription,  decoration,  or  distin- 
guishing sign.  Yet  each  is  known  to,  and  recognised  by,  the  family 
to  whom  it  pertains,  and  their  vested  rights  have  to  be  most  carefully 
respected  in  the  case  of  every  fresh  grave  dug  in  the  vicinity,  so  that 
the  integrity  of  the  georaantic  conditions  be  not  tampered  with  nor 
encroached  upon.  Disputes  between  those  who  have  ancestors  buried  in 
a  particular  spot  and  others  who  wish  to  bury  near  the  existing  graves 
are  of  frequent  occuiTcnce,  and  when  the  decision  of  the  juridical  official 
ifi  in  favour  of  the  new-comer's  claim,  the  old  grave  is  sometimes  opened 
and  the  remains  reintened  in  another  site.  It  would  be  interesting  to 
Afioertain  on  what  principles  the  decisions  in  such  cases  are  based. 

The  2l8t  and  22nd  October  we  spent  in  seeing  the  city  of  Soul,  It 
is  in  the  form  of  an  irregular  oblong,  and  mns  lengthwise  in  a  valley 
that  mns  from  north-east  to  south-west.  On  its  northern  side  ia  a  range 
of  bold  granite  hills,  the  topmost  peaks  of  which  are  about  3500  feet 
high ;  on  its  southern  side,  trending  to  the  east,  is  a  long  chain  of  hills 
about  half  that  height.  The  city  wall  is  carried  along  the  top  of  tho 
southern  hill ;  but  the  steep  crags  of  the  northern  side  require  no 
artificial  strengthening.  Such  parts  of  the  wall  as  I  examined  could 
be  easily  demolished  by  very  light  artillery. 

The  population  of  the  city  is  about  240,000.  The  houses  are  about 
eight  or  nine  feet  high,  built  of  stone  or  mud,  and  mostly  roofed  with 
tiles.  A  long  main  street,  about  100  feet  wide,  running  east  and  west, 
divides  the  city  into  two  nearly  equal  portions.  In  the  northern  half 
are  the  walled  inclosure  oontaining  the  king's  palace,  and  the  more  im- 
portant public  buildings.  The  royal  inclosure  is  bounded  on  ita  north 
lide  by  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  granite  peaks  aforementioned ;  on  its 
Ifo.  v.— Mat  1883.]  u 


282 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882. 


soutli  aide  it  is  entered  by  three  great  wooden  gates,  the  central  and  princi- 
pal one  of  which  is  called  the  Thoi-hwa-mun ;  the  one  to  the  east  of  ibis  is 
the  Ilwing-hwa-mun  ;  that  to  the  west  the  Kwang-hwa-mun,  Insido 
the  iiiclosuro  are  two  palaces.  The  older  of  the  two,  in  which  the  king 
has  resided  for  the  last  eight  years,  is  close  to  the  Thoi-hwa-mun.  The 
other,  close  to  the  Kwang-hwa-mun,  was  built  about  forty  years  ago. 
The  king  lived  in  it  for  about  six  years  after  his  accession  to  the  throue, 
but  a  conflagration  which  partly  destroj^ed  it  compelled  him  to  move 
into  the  old  palace.     It  is  now  being  rebuilt. 

A  street  about  GO  feet  wide  from  the  front  of  the  Thoi-hwa-mun 
intersects  the  main  street  at  right  angles,  dividing  the  northern  half  of 
the  city  into  eastern  and  western  quarters.  At  the  point  of  intersection 
stands  a  pavilion  called  Chong-kak  (the  "  Bell  Kiosk  ")  from  a  largo 
bell  about  seven  feet  high  which  is  xilaced  there.  This  spot  is  regarded  a« 
the  centre  of  the  city ;  and  from  it  another  street,  as  wide  as  the  main 
street,  branches  off  to  the  south-west  and  terminates  at  tho  Kan-tai- 
mun.  The  four  wide  streets  which  thus  radiate  from  the  "  Btdl  Kiosk  "^ 
are  known  as  the  four  Chong-ro  or  "Bell  roads."  The  great  hell  is 
rung  every  morning  as  the  signal  for  opening  and  shutting  the  three 
great  gates  of  tho  city,  namely^  the  Tong-tai-mun  and  Si3-tai-mun  at 
the  eastern  and  western  sides  of  tho  long  main  street,  and  the  Nan-tai- 
mnn  already  mentioned.  Another  conspicuous  feature  of  this  central 
spot  of  the  city  is  the  row  of  large  warehouses  two  storeys  high,  the 
lower  portions  of  Avhich  are  divided  off  into  little  shopB,  opening  into  a 
small  central  court-yard  instead  of  facing  the  street.  The  shopkeeper 
squats  on  the  narrow  verandah  in  front  and  serves  his  customer,  who 
stands  below  in  the  court-yard ;  for  the  shop  itself  is  too  small  for  a 
man  to  stand  upright  or  turn  about  iu.  As  the  wares  are  stowed  away 
in  shelves  and  closets  inside,  it  ia  a  matter  of  considerable  diflSculty  to 
find  out  what  sort  of  wares  are  sold  in  any  particular  shop.  The  prin- 
cipal wares  are  silk  and  cotton  goods,  boots,  paper,  and  brass-ware,  all 
of  native  production.  Tlie  boots  arc  made  in  tho  Chinese  shape,  of  ox- 
hide, not  tanned  into  leather,  but  dried  and  stiffened  into  a  substance  as 
hard  as  horn.  The  uppers  are  made  of  this  as  well  as  the  soles ;  and 
the  boot  feels  as  harsh  and  imcomfortablo  to  the  fout  as  if  it  were  made 
of  iron.  It  wo^lld  be  altogether  impossiblo  to  wear  it  but  for  the  thick 
cotton-wadded  bags  in  which  the  Coreans  incase  their  feet  by  way  of 
socks.  The  paper  is  made  of  the  same  material  and  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  Japanese  paper,  bnt  is  much  stronger  and  tougher  in  texture. 
The  brass-ware,  mostly  domestic  utensils,  such  as  bowls,  candlesticks, 
spittoons,  and  ash-plates,  shows,  by  its  chisel-marked  furrows,  that  it  is 
finished  ofl'  in  the  lathe  after  being  cast. 

The  height  of  these  magazines  is  not  much  over  20  feet,  hut  by 
contrast  with  the  low  dwellings  of  which  the  rest  of  the  city  is  com- 
posed they  present  quite  a  grand  appearance.    They  belong  not  to 


4 
« 


A  VISIT  TO  COREA,  IN  OCTOBER  1882.  283 

individual  merchants,  but  to  the  Guilds,  who  have  hitherto  had  the 
exclusive  right  of  trading  with  the  Chinese  at  the  frontier  gate. 

The  main  street  of  Soul  is,  as  I  have  stated,  about  100  feet  wide; 
but  as  in  &ont  of  nearly  every  house  stands  a  rude  wooden  shanty, 
thatched  with  straw,  used  only  for  business  purposes,  as  shop  or  work- 
shop, the  thoroughfare  is  narrowed  to  about  60  feet,  and  the  appearance 
of  the  street  rendered  poor  and  mean.  There  are  drains  at  the  sides  of 
all  the  streets,  large  and  small,  but  heaps  of  filth  and  rubbish  are 
allowed  to  lie  about  everywhere,  and  more  disgusting  still,  the  privies 
of  the  dwellings  frequently  empty  through  holes  in  the  wall  into  the 
street  drains.  Altogether  the  aspect  of  S5ul  is  uninteresting,  shabby, 
and  squalid. 

We  lost  no  time  in  calling  at  the  Japanese  Legation,  where  we  were 
most  cordially  welcomed  and  hospitably  entertained  by  Mr.  Rondo, 
Consul  in  charge  of  the  Mission,  and  Mr.  Hisamidzu,  Secretary  of 
Legation.  To  the  unstinted  kindness  of  these  gentlemen  we  w^ere 
indebted  for  guidance,  interpretation,  and  assistance  in  seeing  the  sights 
of  the  city,  and  for  nearly  all  the  information  we  gleaned  respecting  it. 
The  Legation  is  situated  in  the  south-western  quarter  of  the  city,  not  far 
from  the  Han-tai-mun,  in  a  slightly  elevated  locality  known  as  the 
Ni-hyon,  or  "  Mud  Mound."  The  Yam^n  now  occupied  by  the  Legation 
formerly  belonged  to  the  chief  of  the  city  police,  but  had,  of  course,. 
to  be  much  altered  and  improved  to  fit  it  for  its  present  pui-pose.  A 
guard  of  thirty  men  are  stationed  inside  the  inclosure.  The  main  body 
of  the  Japanese  force,  400  strong,  is  quartered  in  a  Yam^n  about 
100  yards  distant.  The  approach  to  both  Yamens  is  by  dirty  narrow 
lanes.  The  new  Japanese  Legation  is  to  be  built  not  far  from  the 
present  one,  but  on  higher  ground,  at  the  foot  of  the  southern  range  of 
hills. 

The  chief  public  buildings,  apart  from  the  royal  inclosure,  are  three 
palaces,  two  of  which  belong  to  the  king,  while  the  third  belonged  to 
his  father,  the  Tai-won-gun.  The  Nam-kung,  or  "Southern  Palace,"^ 
stands  near  the  south  great  gate.  It  is  in  this  that  the  marriage 
ceremony  of  the  Corean  kings  is  always  celebrated ;  but  it  is  ordinarily 
occupied  by  the  generalissimo  and  a  body  of  soldiers.  The  Nami-pyol- 
kung,  or  "Southern  Separate  Palace,"  stands  near  the  western  great 
gate,  and  is  reserved  exclusively  for  the  reception  of  the  Chinese  Envoys, 
which  Corea  receives  from  her  suzerain  the  Celestial  Emperor,  on  all 
special  occasions  of  state  ceremonial,  such  as  the  investiture  or  marriage 
of  the  king,  his  vassal.  It  is  now  the  headquarters  of  General  Wu, 
Commissioner  for  Corean  Affairs.  The  TJn-hyon-kung,  or  "  Cloud-mound 
Palace,**  is  in  the  northern  side  of  the  city,  between  the  royal  inclosure 
and  the  main  street  in  front,  and  between  the  central  and  western  palace 
gates  (the  Thoi-hwa-mun  and  the  Kwang-hwa-mun).  This  was  the  city 
residence  of  the  ex-regent.    It  is  by  far  the  strongest  inclosure  in  S6uL 

u  2 


284 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


It  19  BurrounJcd  hy  a  atrong  stone  wall,  and  some  of  the  stones  of  the 
main  gateway  are  of  immense  size.  It  ia  at  present  unoccupied.  The 
dignity  of  these  mansionB  is  indicated  not  bo  much  by  tlio  style  of  archi- 
tecture, which  is  tliat  of  the  one-storeyed  Chinese  Yaraen,  as  by  the 
extent  of  ground  included  in  their  precincts.  They  reminded  me  of  the 
ynshiki  or  inns  of  the  Japanese  Diiirnios,  which  used  to  form  such  a 
prominent  feature  of  tlio  old  city  of  Yedo,  The  offices  of  the  six  minis- 
tries or  administrative  hoards,  the  Ryuk-phan-so,  are  small  houses  at  the 
head  of  the  street  loading  from  the  Kwang-hwa-mun  to  the  main  street. 
In  size  and  appearance  they  are  very  little  Buperior  to  an  ordinary 
private  dwelling. 

Mr.  Kondo  informed  me  that  the  total  population  of  Coroa,  according 
to  the  Government  census,  ia  about  6,840,000  souls.  The  revenue  of  the 
king,  that  is  to  say,  of  the  State,  is  derived  entirely  from  the  land  tax. 
Tho  unit  of  cultivable  area  for  revenue  purposes  is  the  kyol^  the 
equivalent  of  which,  in  superficial  measure,  I  was  unable  to  ascertain. 
The  estimated  total  yield  of  the  country  is  468,306  kyol  of  rice-land,  and 
309,807  kyol  of  other  cereals.  The  land  tax,  payable  at  option  in  money 
or  in  kind,  is  750  Corean  taels  (nyang)  per  100  kyol  for  rice-land, 
and  about  two-thirds  of  that  sum  per  100  kyol  of  other  cereals.  The 
rate  of  exchange  when  I  was  in  Siiul  waa  about  five  nyang  equal  to 
one  dollar  Mexican.  Taking  the  sterling  value  of  the  dollar  at  its  present 
current  rate  of  3*.  9<J.,  tho  annual  revenue  of  the  kingdom  of  Corea  is  a 
trifle  over  190,000/. 

The  Chinese  troops  at  Soul  nnmbored  .3G00,  of  whom  only  about  600 
were  quartered  inside  the  city.  The  main  body  was  distributed  in  five 
fortified  camps  which  they  have  thrown  up  at  various  points  round  the 
city  within  sight  of  the  walls.  The  behaviour  of  the  Boldiers  whom  wo 
met  roaming  in  and  abont  the  city,  was  excellent,  and  they  seemed  to  be 
on  the  beat  of  terms  with  the  populace.  I  believe  it  is  tho  intention  of 
tho  Chinese  Government  to  retain  the  force  in  its  present  position  and 
strength  so  long  as  the  Japanese  troops  remain. 

We  left  Siiul  about  noon  of  Monday,  the  23rd  October,  after  paying  a 
visit  of  thanks  to  General  Wu,  and  by  bard  riding  succeeded  in  getting 
bftok  to  the  Flying  Fish  at  9  o'clock  the  following  night. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

The  Victoria  Ifyanza  and  Mount  Senia  Expedition.— We  have 
ccived  the  following  telegram  from  Zanzibar,  reporting  the  progress  of 
Mr.  Thomson'^  expedition  : — '*  Thomson  left  Bura  for  Taveta  on  29th 
March,  and  is  expected  to  arrive  there  about  Ist  April.  All  well. 
Fischer  has  reached  a  place  south  of  Chaga,  and  is  awaiting  caravan." 
Bura  ia  about  100  miles  in  a  straight  line  from  Mombasa,  tho  traveller's 


4 
4 

I 
I 
I 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


285 


btarting-pomt.  Taveta  is  at  the  Bouth-eastcm  foot  of  EiUmanjaro, 
and  id  a  place  where  a  caravan-route  branches  off  from  the  Mombasa- 
Cliaga  route  in  a  north-westerly  direction.  Mr.  Thomson  succeeded  in 
engaging  149  men,  porters  and  guardsj  for  liis  cxj)edition.  He  intends 
paasiug  to  the  north  of  Kilimanjaro  on  his  way  to  Kavirondo. 

Tribei  related  to  the  Zulus  in  South-Eastern  Africa— Pasteur  Ber- 
thond,  of  the  Mission  of  the  Canton  de  Vaud  in  South  Afi-ica,  has 
oODununicated  some  interesting  information  with  regard  to  a  tribe 
which  occupies  the  region  between  the  Tmnsvaal  frontier  and  Lorenzo 
JUurquea.  At  Vuldeisia,  the  paateur's  station,  south  of  the  river  Lim- 
popo, he  finds  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  triljc  known  by  several  names, 
aud  whom  it  has  been  hitherto  difficult  to  classify  either  as  Zulu  or 
Chudna.  However  the  unerring  test  of  language,  applied  by  a  competent 
scholar  and  linguist,  has  settled  this  point.  The  language  is  called 
Gwamba ;  it  is  a  sister  language  of  the  Zulu,  aud  is  the  same  as  appears 
in  vocabularies  as  the  language  of  Lorenzo  Martiuee.  Tliey  call  them- 
selves Ma-Gwamba,  as  Gwamba  is  tho  name  of  the  devil,  wliich  they 
use  in  their  imprecations,  aud  after  which  their  UL-ighbourH,  hearing 
them  use  the  word,  have  called  them,  and  in  default  of  a  better  they 
accept  that  name.  But  their  more  distant  neighbours,  who  speak  Suto 
of  tlie  ChuiUis,  branch  of  Bantu  languages,  find  it  hard  to  pronounce  the 
word  Ma-Gwamba ;  they  cannot  turn  it  round  in  their  mouth,  and  con- 
sequently call  it  ]V[a-Kwapa  and  Ma-Kwamba,  as  tho  name  ap|)eara  in 
German  maps. — The  Boers  call  them  *'  Knobnoses,"  on  account  of  their 
tattooing,  which  custom  they  have  now  loft  off. — But  of  the  Ma-Gwamba 
there  are  two  sub-tribes,  speaking  a  different  dialect;  bouUx  of  tho 
Limpopo  is  the  pure  Gwamba  dialect,  north  of  the  Liini>upo  is  the 
Hleugwo;  hence  tho  tribe  is  called  in  German  maj)8  Bu-Hloekwa. — 
It  is  not  yet  clear  what  the  meaning  of  the  words  T<mga,  Ba-1'onga, 
Ama-Tonga  are,  they  may,  as  stated  by  St,  Vincent  Er^jkine,  be  a 
generic  term  api»lied  by  tho  Zulu  conqueroi"8  to  all  the  tribes  whieh 
have  submitted  to  them.  It  is,  however,  certain  in  M,  Berthond's 
opinion,  that  the  Gwamba  consider  tfmzila  and  his  Ba-Ngoni  to  be 
Zulu. — M.  Berthond  also  mentions  that  the  Ba-Tonga,  wliu  dwell  <^lose 
to  the  new  station  of  tho  Free  Church  of  Scotland  at  Bandawe  on  Lake 
Nyafisa,  are  akin  to  the  Gwamba,  as  he  and  Mr.  Lawes  of  tho  Free 
Church  have  submitted  their  language  to  a  test  The  Ba-Tonga  on  the 
NyasBa  could  understand  sentences  road  out  to  them  in  Gwamba. — The 
Ma-Gwamba  at  present  occupy  the  coast  from  Lorenzo  Marques  as  far 
AS  Sofala,  and  spread  into  the  interior  as  far  as  300  miles  from  tho  sea, 
to  Valdczia  in  the  Transvaal.  If  the  pastcur's  statements  founded  upon 
l>ersonal  knowledge  are  supported  by  others,  this  tribe  is  one  of  great 
numerical  importance.  He  is  now  preparing  a  granmiar,  an  1  a  descrip 
live  statement  accompanied  by  a  nnip. 


286 


GE03RAP:I1CAL  kotes. 


The  Congo, — At  the  third  meeting  of  the  German  Geographical 
Congress  held  at  Frankfort  on  the  Main  in  the  last  week  in  Marck, 
Ilerr  Pechuol-Loesche,  the  experienced  West  African  traveller,  who  wa« 
a  member  of  the  German  Loango  Expedition  in  1873-76,  and  has  sinoe 
served  as  second  in  command  to  Stanley  at  Stanley  Pool,  delivered  an 
interesting  address  on  the  geography  of  the  Congo.  Ho  described  the 
iiiountain  range  which  is  the  cause  of  the  obstruction  to  navigation  on 
the  lower  part  of  the  river,  as  running  from  south-east  to  north-weat, 
parallel  to  the  coast.  The  range,  though  not  presenting  any  striking 
mountain  scenery,  nor  rising  to  a  groat  elevation,  like  every  other  African 
coast  chain  suffices  to  shut  out  the  interior  of  Africa  from  the  seaports. 
The  range  was  found  fo  be  of  Cambrian  formation  by  Dr.  Lenz,  the 
geologist  who  siu'veyed  it  in  the  district  of  the  Ogowe,  and  by  the 
German  African  Society's  Expedition,  who  studied  it  near  the  Loango 
■coast.  As  it  approaches  the  basin  of  the  Ogowe,  going  northwards,  the 
cliain  recedes  far  from  the  coast,  and  opens  up  easy  waterways  into  the 
interior,  but  further  to  the  south,  in  the  Yainba  district,  it  approaches 
so  near  the  Atlantic  that  its  highest  smnmits  are  visible  from  sea.  This 
southeiT)  part  runs  parallel  to  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  about  20  nautical 
miles,  it  then  gradually  recedes  further  inhmd  so  that  the  Congo  mountain 
chain  is  distant  about  50  miles  from  the  coast.  The  surface  geological  for- 
matioi»  of  the  Congo  region  is  a  kind  of  sandy  loam,  which  is  very  porous 
and  absorbs  moisturo  like  a  sponge.  It  varies  from  a  bright  red  to  a 
dull  brown,  or  warm  oohro  colour.  I'he  mountains  are  not  high  and  the 
difficulties  they  present  do  not  seem  of  great  magnitude  at  first,  for  they 
only  begin  when  the  traveller  is  in  their  midst.  Their  height  is 
generally  not  more  than  from  700  to  1000  feet,  some  elevations  on  the 
northern  side  reaching  3300  feet.  But  the  rounded  and  softened  forms 
of  the  chain  detract  from  its  grandeur,  and  the  impression  produced  is 
that  of  wearying  monotony.  In  the  Congo  district,  the  mountains 
commence  from  a  sloping  plain,  which  rises  gradually  from  the  coast 
towards  the  interior,  and  attains  a  height  of  about  1000  feet  above  the  sea- 
loveL  It  forms  an  elevated  Ijelt  about  200  geographical  miles  in  width. 
The  difficulties  which  travellers  encounter  arise  from  the  fact  that  the 
different  groiips  of  elevations  are  separated  from  each  other  by  pre- 
cipitous chasms,  varying  in  depth  from  150  to  800  feet,  which  have 
to  be  descended  and  reascended,  and  naturally  do  not  facilitate  land 
travelling.  The  mountain  slojiea  are  often  at  an  angle  of  45,  and 
offer  therefore  great  drawbacks  to  their  ascent  and  descent.  All 
the  mountains  have  one  and  the  same  appearance,  viz.  that  already  de- 
scribed : — rounded  summits  of  nearly  the  same  height,  and  are  covered 
"vvith  a  uniform  vegetation.  The  grass  presents  a  wonderful  verdant 
aspect  in  the  rainy  season,  in  fact  till  spring-time;  it  afterwards  assumes 
a  straw  colour,  brilliant  in  the  sunlight  with  the  thousand  hues  of  the 
yellowish-brown.    Another  pretty  sight  is  offered  by  small,  dwarf-like 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


287 


irae«»  the  poor  and  apparently  leafless  bushes,  as  they  stand  on  the  hills. 
Among  them  wts  find  the  Atwna  seneyfahmisj  the  PaveUa  canescens,  and 
tine  beautifully   frundescent    Camoen«ia  viaxiina.    The   raoro   luxuriant 
aspeols  of  vegetation  are  hidden  in  the  lower  recesses  of  the  mountains ; 
A  dense  leafy  jungle  of  loft}'  treos,  varied  hero  and  there  with  groups  of 
palms:   in   their  depths  flow  the  many  winding  mountain   streams, 
hannted  by  the  wild  animals,  of  which,  however,  there  are  but  few. 
Some  birds,  among  thom  the  rhinoceros  bird,  flocks  of  monkeys — perfect 
nuisances  they  are  with  their  hissing  and  whistling,  though  sometimes 
amusing  as  they  raoe  up  the  steep  mountain  slopes — ^a  few  antelopes  and 
boffaloee  and  the  elephant  make  up  the  quota.     The  African  elephant 
is,  however,  of  such  a  migratory  di8i>o8ition  that  many  yeare  often  elapse 
before  ho  again  appears  on  the  spot  where  he  once  was  seen.     Further 
north,  in  the  Kuilu  district,  where  the  hij^heat  mountains  approach 
close  to  the  sexi,  wo  meet  with  another  feature :  there  we  find  the  great 
forest  of  Tschiyombo ;  and  it  is  significant  that  whilst  the  natives  of  the 
lower  Congo  always  speak  of  the  interior  as  Miongo,  the  mountain,  the 
oo&st  people  further  north  use  the  appellation  Miritu,  the  forest.     The 
villages  on  the  Congo  are  built  on  tho  high  and  bare  mountain  peaks, 
like  robbers*  nests,  resembling  by  their  position  the  German  castles  in 
medisBval  times.  There  are  no  trees  on  the  mountains,  the  natives  having 
destroyed  all  forest-trees,  either  by  cutting  or  burning.    Their  object  for 
this  is  that  they  may  have  some  spare  ground  to  cultivate ;  they  bum 
the  grass  and  accordingly  destroy  all  traces  of  vegetation.      Many  of 
the  mountain  brooks  tributary  to  the  Congo  have  scooped  out  deep 
beds  and  join  the  main  stream  on    the  level,  but  other  larger  rivers 
flowing   from   the  interior   over   Iiorizontul   strata  have  not  cut  their 
way  so  deeply,  and  at  their  junction  form  catai*acts.    Thus  the  Luenga 
Iklls  into  the  Congo  from  a  height  of  more  than   300  feet,  and  the 
Lnviibi  precipitates  its  waters  into  the  great  stream  from  a  height  of 
600  feet.    The  main  Congo  is  the  only  stream  of  the  region  which  cuts 
through  tho  whole  breadth  of  the  mountain-ridge.    It  does  not  flow 
through  a  valley,  but  through  a  ravine.     Its  waters  rise  twice  a  year, 
up  to  20  feet.    It  swells  from  September  to  January,  and  falls  from 
January  to  March  ;  attaining  its  greatest  height  during  the  rainy  season, 
April  and  May,  and  its  lowest  level  in  July  and  Aug^ust.     Its  cataracts 
preeent  great  obstacles  to  communication,  though  they  are  not  on  the 
scale  we  might  expect  in  so  great  a  stream.     Only  one  fall  is  vertical, 
Tie,  that  of  Isangila,  and  that  has  a  height  of  only  16  feet,  and  it  does 
not  occupy  the  whole  breadth  of  the  stream.     In  the  rainy  season  when 
the  rise  attains  its  gieatest  height,  aE  the  waterfalls  disappear  in  the 
nniform  flow  of  rushing  and  swollen  waters.    Another  feature  of  tho 
Comgo  is  the  number  of  rapi«ls  during  its  whole  course,  similar  to  those 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  North  America.     Viewed  from  a  height,  they  do 
not  appear  dangerous ;  the  waters,  when  seen  from  afar,  have  a  more 


288 


GEOClurHlCAL  NOTES. 


bubbling  look,  like  that  of  some  brook  passing  tbrougb  a  mill.  But  it 
you  descend,  then  you  will  wonder  at  the  magnitude  and  power  of  the 
waters,  and  you  will  acknowledge  how  perilous  must  be  the  navigation. 
Altogether,  from  Stanley  Pool  down  to  its  estuary,  the  Congo  has  a  fall 
of  928  feet  in  a  coutb©  of  some  300  nautical  miles.  Its  greatest  fall  lies 
in  the  eastera  half  of  the  mountain  obstruction.  From  Stanley  Pool  to 
Manjanga  it  is  49^}^  feet,  from  Manyanga  to  Isangila  98  feet,  and  from 
I«angila  to  Vivi  at  the  foot  of  the  last  fall,  295  feet.  Another  pecnliarity 
of  the  Congo  is  the  sudden  tlisturbanoo  to  which  itjs  waters  arc  liable. 
Sometimes  a  mass  of  foam  will  be  seen  to  appear  without  notice  on  the 
water ;  the  whole  stream  l>econies  violently  agitated,  and  seethes  and 
boils.  The  general  explanation  of  this  phenomenon  is  as  follows:  the 
Congo  has  not  always  the  same  velocity ;  in  its  upper  course,  for 
instance,  it  glides  with  a  rapidity  of  four  miles  an  hour,  but  in  its 
lower  range  it  flows  much  more  slowly.  Numerous  clifis  and  rocks 
obfitruct  its  way ;  there  are  besides,  a  number  of  counter-currents,  some 
diagonal  across  the  river,  others  emerging  below  and  consequently 
creating  whirlpools.  These  eddies  or  whirlpools  are  always  strong 
enough  to  knock  about  a  small  boat,  either  until  the  rotatory  move- 
ment ceases,  or  till  a  favourable  current  allows  the  skiff  to  follow  its 
proper  course  j  they  generally  show  themsolvea  all  of  a  sudden,  and 
exist  permanently  in  a  very  few  places  only. 

King  Makoko  of  Stanley  Pooh — Br.  Pi-chuel-Loesche  on  being  ques* 
tioned  on  the  occawion  montioned  in  the  preceding  note  regarding  the 
status  of  the  chief  Makoko,  gave  the  following  information.  The  Makoko 
question,  ho  said,  was  a  puzzle  even  for  people  who  had  some  practical 
knowledge  of  the  Congo  district.  When  Messrs.  Bentloy  and  Crud- 
gington,  of  the  Baptist  Mission,  first  visited  Stanley  Pool  in  1881, 
immediately  after  M.  de  Brazza's  treaty  negotiations,  they  found  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  Pool  a  friendly  chief  named  Buaba-nyali,  who  had 
accepted  a  French  flag  from  de  Brazza,  but  then  asked  his  new  visitors 
for  an  English  flag,  which  however  was  not  given  him.  The  tw® 
Englishmen  afterwards  crossed  to  the  southern  shore,  where  thoy  found 
the  chief  Nga-liema  at  his  tovm  of  Ntarao  or  Kintarao,  an  able  and 
influential  potentate,  who  had  formerly  made  blood-brotherhood  with 
Mr.  Stanley  (on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery  down  the  Congo),  and 
whoso  territories  now  adjoin  the  Belgian  station  of  Leopold ville  ;  Nga- 
liema  has  Bince  maintained  that  he  had  made  no  concession  to  M.  de 
Brazza.  At  Ntamo,  Messrs.  Bentley  and  Crudgington  were  met  by  two 
coloure<l  seamen,  wearing  French  naval  caps  bearing  the  name  of 
Eurifdice,  who  had  come  from  a  phice  called  Kinchacha,  also  on  the 
southern  shore,  one  of  whom,  the  sergeant  Malamine,  exhibited  a  docu- 
ment of  annexation  signed  by  the  **  Makoko  "  and  M.  de  Brazza,  and 
declared  that  Nga-liema  was  a  nonentity,  the  Makoko  of  Kinchacha  boing 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


289 


the  sovereign  of  all  the  Batekes.  Going  then  to  Kinchacha,  the  two 
English  mifisionaries  met  with  rough  treatmeut,  and  soon  after  returned 
down  the  Congo.  During  l>r.  rechuel-Loesclie's  rcaidenco  at  Stanley 
Pool  in  18S2,  where  he  held  the  command  of  the  Belgian  expedition 
during  the  abeence  in  Europe  of  Mr.  Stauley,  ho  often  met  the  son  of 
the  Kinchacha  chief,  who  assured  him  that  hia  father  had  ceded  no  land 
to  M.  de  Brazza,  and  had  no  Frencli  flag  in  his  poseession.  He  (Dr. 
Pechuel-Loesche)  saw  himeelf  no  French  flag  or  any  representative  of 
M,  de  Brazza,  either  at  the  Pool  or  anywhere  else  on  the  Congo,  the 
two  coloured  sailors  having  apparently  taken  their  departure.  ThuH  it 
ppeared  there  were  many  Makokos — (1)  on  the  southern  shore  of  the 
d1  ;  (2)  the  trusty  friend  of  Stanley,  from  whom  ho  had  bought  for 
the  International  Association  a  largo  tract  of  land  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  Pool,  and  extending  far  inland ;:  (3)  a  chief  living  far  away  to  the 
north-east  of  the  Pool,  with  whom  M.  de  Brazza's  treaty  appears  really  to 
have  been  made.  Of  this  chief.  Dr.  Pechuel-Loesche  could  give  no  infor- 
mation, but  he  was  certain  that  he  had  no  power  over  the  other  chiefs 
and  the  Bateke  people.  The  word  Makoho  meant  simply  "  the  ruler  of  the 
stream."  There  was  a  fourth  Makoko,  Buaba-nyali,  the  chief  on  the 
northern  shore,  besides  a  number  of  other  titled  kinglets.  Kone  of 
them  has  a  right  of  precedence  over  the  others,  or  any  title  whatever  to 
be  Boveroign  of  the  Bateke  population  of  this  port  of  the  Congo. 

The  Wakwafi  Raid  on  the  District  near  Mombasa. — The  Rev.  Thos. 
Wakefield,  writing  from  Jomva,  near  Mombasa,  on  the  13th  of  March, 
addfl  some  interesting  particulars  to  his  former  communication  respecting 
the  visit  of  marauding  Wakwafi  to  the  district  in  which  his  mission  is 
fiitaated.*  He  says: — The  universal  opinion  in  these  districts  is  that 
the  freebooters  who  overran  the  country  a  few  months  ago  were  not 
tme  Masai^  but  people  from  Arnsha  (a  district  south  of  Kilimanjaro 
and  west  of  the  Ltivu  river).  This  view  is  strengthened  hy  two  con- 
BideratiunB :  first,  Mr.  Rarashaw,  one  of  my  coUeagnea,  who  walked  up 
here  from  Pangani  a  month  ago,  frequently  came  upon  the  tracks  of  the 
invaders,  the  grass  being  trodden  down  for  many  miles.  Secondly,  whilst 
in  the  Giriyama  district  ihey  had  fed  freely  upon  the  fruit  of  thopapaw 
tree,  and  eaten  of  all  vegetable  food  that  came  in  their  way — a  habit 
altogether  contrary  to  that  of  the  beef-eating  and  milk-drinking 
Masai  and  Wakwafi.  It  is,  besides,  i-eported  that  they  carried  off 
implements  of  agriculture,  hoes  and  so  forth,  from  the  huts  of  tho 
natives,  which  the  Masai  and  Wakwafi  would  not  do,  as  they  never  turn 
a  sod.  These  tromblesome  predatory  tribes,  however,  are  fast  losing  the 
purity  and  8i»eciality  of  their  race-  they  have  been  broken  and  reduced, 
and  are  now  beginning  to  eombiuc  agriculture  with  their  original 
pastoral  occupations.     If  it  is  true  that  they  came  from  Arusha,  this 

*  *  Proreediogfe/  <»n/f,  February  No.,  p.  90. 


290 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


would  bo  their  first  visit  to  those  localities,  and  E»b6  must  have  been 
the  furthest  limit  uortli  of  their  forays. 

CommTuiication  between  Lakes  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika.— Mr.  James 

Stewart  has  resumed  work  on  the  "  Lake-Junction  road  "  between  NyaiW^ 
anti  Tanganyika,  which  was  int^rrnpjted  in  1881  by  the  massaoTe  of  some 
of  his  Hien  by  a  local  chief,  whose  vitilent  act  was  disapproved  of  by  all 
the  headmen  of  the  neighbouring  country.  He  is  now  so  far  advanced 
that  he  has  written  to  Scotland  to  say  that  he  is  ready  for  the  steamer 
whiuh  the  London  Missionary  Society  had  intended  to  send  by  tliis 
route  for  launching  on  Tanganyika,  and  that  he  had  good  hopes  of  being 
able  to  convey  it  safely  across  the  portage  to  the  waters  of  the  northern 
lake  next  dry  season.  The  steamer  called  the  Good  News  has  been 
accordingly  sent,  and  is  believed  to  be  now  at  Karongas  at  the  head  of 
Lake  Nyassa,  ready  to  be  carried  in  its  400  sections  along  the  road  to 
Pambete.  His  present  station,  from  which  he  writes  on  the  22nd 
iJocemher,  is  in  Mwembera's  Valley  (about  70  miles  from  the  north- 
;west  shores  of  Lake  Nyassa),  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  permanent 
ams  of  the  uplands ;  a  small  stream,  but  having  beautifully  pure  water 
"  fresh  from  the  niountains.  He  had  fixed  upon  an  excellent  site  for  a 
new  station  of  the  Free  Church  Mission,  near  Maliwanda's  village,  some 
miles  nearer  Nyassa  than  his  0'v\'n  headquarters.  On  tho  side  of  Nyasaa 
hills  rise  to  a  height  of  1500  feet,  covered  with  trees  green  all  the  year 
round,  hut  towards  the  west  a  straight  horizon  line  alone  bounds  the 
view.  The  elevation  above  the  sea  is  about  4000  feet ;  the  soil  is  not 
very  fertile,  but  cattle  and  sheep  thrive  well. 

Public  Schools  Prizes  Examinations. — The  result  of  the  Society's 
Examinations  this  year  is  as  follows  : — Physical  Geography  (Examiner, 
Prof.  II.  N.  Mosoloy,  F.n.s.) ;  Gold  Medal,  Thomas  Eoso  ;  Silver  Medal, 
Samuel  William  CarrutLers,  both  of  Bulwich  College.  Honourably 
mentioned :  James  Douglas  Dallas  (Loudon  Litemational  College), 
Edward  George  Stubbs  (Liverpool  College),  Charles  Alexander  Maclean 
Pond  (City  of  London  School).  Political  Geography  (Examiner,  General 
Sii-  J.  H.  Lefroy,  R.A.,  F.u.8.) :  Gold  Modal,  Sydney  Charles  Farlow 
(Harrow  School) ;  Silver  Medal  (not  awarded).  Honourably  mentioned  : 
Arthur  Frank  Bowkor  (LTniversity  College  School ). 

International  Congress  of  Orientalists. — The  Sixth  Congress  of 
Orientalists  Tvill  be  hold  tliiH  year  at  Leydeu,  from  the  10th  to  the  15th 
of  Septeml>er.  An  organising  committee  has  been  formed,  with  R»  Dozy 
for  its  President.  All  communications  i-elative  to  membership  are  to  be 
addressed  to  M.  W.  Pleij'tc,  the  Treasurer,  at  Leyden. 


(     2'Jl     ) 


Mr.  W.  H.  Johnson. — Information   has  lately  been  received  from  India  of 

the  death  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Johnson,  the  surveyor  who  made  the  remarkable  journey 

the  Kuen  Lun  to  Ikhi,  in  1865.     We  have  received  from  .Colonel  II.  H. 

iwin-Austen,  r.B.s.,  the  following  account  of  hia  life  and  labours  :— 

Mr.  Johnson  was  in  the  service  of  the  Maharajah  Rhuubir  Singh,  of  Jummoo 
and  Kashmir;  and  he  died  at  Jummoo,  on  the  Srd  of  March,  under  most  melancholy 
eircumBtaDCea,  being  fully  persuaded  that  he  had  been  poisimed,  and  an  investiga- 
lioa  into  the  circumstances  is  pending.  His  former  services  aa  a  civil  assistant 
in  the  Trigonometrical  Survey  are  better  known  in  that  department  than  to  the 
general  public  in  England;  there  were  few  men  living  who  had  greater  experience 
of  mountain  work,  and  none  who  had  ascetided  to  greater  heights,  and  the  work  ho 
did  was  of  considerable  value  and  magnitude.  A  resume  of  these  services  will  be 
given  in  this  notice. 

Mr.  Johnson's  father,  a  much-respected  pensioned  Ordnance  officer  of  the  East 
India  Company's  Service,  lived  at  Deyrah  for  many  years,  and  educated  his  sou  at 
Muasooree,  and  placed  him  at  an  early  age  in  the  Civil  Branch  of  the  Survey 
Department.  The  young  surveyor  hegan  his  career  in  1848,  under  Captain  du 
Vemet,  in  that  splendid  school  of  mountain  surveyors,  the  North-West  Ilimalayan 
Survey,  and  remained  working  in  the  outer  range  of  the  Punjfib  Ilimalaya,  with 
Captain  du  Vernet,  until  1851-52,  when  that  officer  was  transferred  to  Assam. 
For  a  short  time,  he  was  employed  in  carrying  on  route  surveys  in  the  Punj&b, 
aod  in  1852-53  he  was  placed  in  Mr.  Logan's  party  oa  the  Cheaab  river. 
In  1853-54  we  find  him  in  Mr.  Mulheran's  i>arty  w^hich  was  carrying  on  the  tri- 
angulation  over  the  range  between  the  Bhagirathi  and  Kanawar,  and  here  he  made 
his  first  considerable  ascent  of  the  Snowy  Peak  near  the  N6la  pass,  which  was 
recorded,  as  follows,  in  the  Survey  Annals,  1854  : — 

"  This  was  the  peak  that  for  two  seasons  challenged  the  mountain  climbers  ol 
the  North-West  Himalaya  Series ;  on  the  22nd  of  June  it  was  ascended  by  Mr. 
Johnson,  and  his  observations  from  the  summit  realised  the  results  desired  by  the 
SunreyoT-Genei-al  in  the  connection  of  the  Bhagirathi  and  Sutlej-Spiti-Chandrd 
scrie*."  This  portion  of  the  North-West  Himalaya  series  was  one  of  the  stiffest  they 
hadtodo.* 

The  annexation  of  the  Punjab  in  1849  had  brought  us  into  political  relations 
with  a  vast  area  to  the  north  and  west  of  the  mountains  of  which  Captain  du  Vernet 

I  had  commenced  and  nearly  completed  the  survey  ;  and  the  Triangulation  was  ready 
for  another  grand  advance.  We  had  lately  given  the  sovereignty  of  this  country 
to  Rajah  Goolab  Singh,  so  there  were  no  political  difficulties,  and  in  1855,  the 
Surveyor-General  (Colonel,  afterwards  Sir  Andrew,  Waugh)  obtained  the  sanction 
pf  the  Government  of  India  to  form  the  Kashmir  Survey  Party  ;  and  in  that  year, 
p|r.  Johnson  having  been  selected,  on  account  of  the  experience  he  had  gained 
iTBTeying  in  the  North-West  Himalaya,  marched  up  the  camp  from  Deyrah,  and 


•  For  farther  dettiil  of  Mr.  W.  H.  Jolmaon's  work,  I  must  refer  the  render  io  "The 
Introductory  Account  of  tho  Topographical  Operations  of  ihe  Kashmir  Soirey  and  of 
tiie  North- West  Uimalaja  Series;"  extrttcled  from  vol.  vii.  of  the  Synopsis  of  the 
BtxaltB  of  thu  Operations  of  tht*  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  Indin. 

His  report  on  his  Journey  to  Ilchi  waa  read  at  the  Evening  Meeting  of  the  B.G.8. 
of  November  12th,  ISfiC,  and  publiuhcd,  with  niflp,  in  vol.  37  of  the  *  Journal,'  p.  1. 


292 


OBITUARY. 


ju'iDod  Lieuteoant  Montgomerie  ia  the  Punj&b,  and  with  that  officer  took  a  Icadioj; 
jmrt  in  the  triaogulation  which  was  takea  over  the  Pir  Fuajab  range  (15,000  feet), 
Tbis  triiiogulalion  that  autumn  was  extended  by  JohDsoQ  over  the  Lidar  and  Stod 
valleys. 

In  1856  Mr.  Johnson  was  deputed  to  the  Kishangunga  valley,  having  previoufily 
selected  and  built  the  Trigonometrical  Stjition  of  Haramukh  (16,000  feet). 

In  1857  the  outbreak  of  the  ludiaii  Mutiny  altered  to  a  great  extent  the  plans  of 
the  oQicer  in  charge  of  the  Survey  Party.  Political  relations  were  in  a  critical  state 
and  kept  Caf»taia  Montgomerie  entirely  at  Srinagar  during  that  season  and  the 
next ;  so  that  the  principal  part  of  the  triaugnlation  fell  to  Mr.  Johnson  and  other 
a-ssist ants,  and  from  that  time  until  the  completion  of  the  survey  he  took  the  lion's 
shaie  of  work.  He  formed  titutiona  and  plaated  tlie  12-Juch  thet;dolitQ  on  some  of 
the  highest  peaks  that  had  ever  lieen  ascended  and  observed  from,  and  to  him  great 
honour  is  due  in  ascending  to  the  greatest  fixed  altitude  of  any  one  belonging  to  that 
survey  party,  not  excepting  the  lopographical  assistaotsj  who  visited  in  turn  all  these 
trigonometrical  points,  to  sketch  in  the  country  on  the  plane  table. 

I  shall  now  briefly  note  Mr.  Johnson's  work  in  the  different  seasons  after  1857, 
which  must  be  added  to  the  preceding  record  of  three  years.  In  1858  he  was  in 
Badrawar  and  Padar  iu  the  valley  of  the  Chandrabagha,  and  later  on  in  the  season, 
he  started  the  triangulation  on  the  Indus  and  Shayok.  In  1S59,  his  highest 
station  in  the  Indus  scries,  Spfmgpochigo,,  was  18,820  feet,  and  the  average  of  his 
stations  was  17,500  feet.  In  1860,  in  Uupshti,  he  twice  ascended  peaks  little  short 
of  20,000  feet,  the  greatest  height  from  which  regular  ubservatious  had  as  yet  been 
taken. 

In  1861,  he  extended  the  Rukshn  series  to  the  Baralacha  pass,  and  thus  con- 
nected the  Kashmir  Triangulation  with  ihtit  of  the  Norlh-West  Himalaya;  three  of 
his  stations  exceeded  20,000  feet.  In  1862,  he  worked  from  Leh  in  Ladakh  to  the 
Chiaeae  frontier;  the  average  height  of  his  stations  being  ] 9,877  feet,  two  being 
20,866  feet  and  20,552  feet  respectively,  and  he  visitod  one  pieak  which  was  21,059 
feet,  but  was  prevented  by  a  snowstorm  Irom  observing  from  it.  In  1863  he  did  not 
accomfumy  Captain  Montgomerie.  In  1864,  Mr.  Juhnson  was  at  work  again  ou  the 
high  plateau  north  of  the  Changchonmo  valley,  with  Messrs.  Clarke  and  Low ;  and 
in  1H65,  when  deputed  again  to  continue  the  reconnaissance  work  of  the  i)receding 
season,  which  had  reached  the  southern  flank  of  the  Kuen  Luu,  be  made  his 
famous  journey  to  the  plains  of  Khotan,  visiting  Ilchi  and  fixing  its  position. 
He  wiia  the  first  European  traveller  who  had  penetrate<l  so  far  beyond  our  frontier 
and  who  returned  iu  safety;  Adolphe  Schlagintvveit,  the  first  who  attempted  this 
perilous  journey,  having  been  murdered  in  1857.  Mr  Johnson  spent  a  fortnight  at 
Udii  and  was  well  received,  and  returned  by  the  Kanikdsh  valley  and  the  Kara- 
kuram  pass,  arriving  at  Leh  on  the  lat  December,  18G5.  At  the  time  when  he  was 
led  to  undertake  this  plucky  journey  everything  appeared  propitious  for  its  accom- 
plishment, and  I  give  an  extract  from  the  OiBcial  Survey  Report  referring  to  it. 

"  Various  ciixumstances  induced  Mr.  Johnson  to  undertake  a  journey  to  Kholan 
and  the  adjacent  districts  in  Eastern  Turkestan,  which  lay  upwards  of  a  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  north  of  the  frontier  of  Ladakh,  to  which  the  regular  operation*  of 
the  Kashmir  Survey  were  restricted.  While  in  Leh  he  received  a  letter  from  the 
Khan  Dadaha  of  Khot;in,  inviting  him  to  enter  his  country,  and  offering  him  all  the 
assistance  and  prutecliou  in  his  p«.iv\er  througliout  the  regions  tributary  to,  or  iu 
alliance  with,  those  uuder  his  rule,  Several  days  after  the  receipt  of  this  letter — 
from  the  encamping  groimd  at  the  head  of  the  Karakilsh  valley — Mr.  Juhnson  sent  a 
reply  accepting  the  Khiin's  invitation,  but  proposing  at  the  same  lime  that  he  should 
Bend  his  two  sons  ur  his  Wazir  to  the  first  village  en  the  north  aide  of  the  Kiilu 


OBrrUART. 


298 


^ 


Lua'ninge,  to  escort  him  thence  to  Khotan.  The  encamping  ground  on  the  K&rd- 
ki»h  river  is  at  a  point  on  the  main  route  to  Yarkand,  where  a  road  diverges  east- 
wmrd,  across  the  Yangidiwan  pass  to  Khotan :  while  halting  here»  Mr,  John*ju 
made  several  excursions  to  the  Kidn  Ltin  range,  wliich  were  pushed  forward  int4> 
the  Khotan  district,  on  his  rec4;iving  authentic  information  that  the  Khan  liad 
despatched  his  Wazir  to  meet  him  at  Brangsa,  the  first  village  beyond  the  Ladakh 
border,  for  the  purpose  of  accompanying  him  to  Ilchi.  The  Khan  had  also  with 
his  own  pen  charged  his  officials  to  make  such  arrangements  as  would  facilitate 
Ifr.  Johnson's  journey  through  his  territories.  He  had  thus  an  opportunity  of 
making  a  tonr  through  Khotan,  at  the  invitation  of  the  rult'r,  with  every  chance 
of  succeeding  in  carrying  out  his  project  for  the  determination  of  the  positions  of 
)Iobi  and  other  important  places,  and  for  the  extension  of  to[X)graphical  work  north 
of  the  Kiiin  Lun  range." 

This  adventurous  expedition  bo  far  beyond  the  Kashmir  frontier,  although 
anooenfal,  could  not  be  officinlly  noticed  and  rewarded,  as  it  would  ha%^e  been,  had 
not  Mr.  Johnson  undertaken  it  without  leave  from  the  Goverament  of  India.  The 
expedition  presents  an  example  of  how  much  valuable  knowledge  we  might  now 
poMOM  of  the  country  beyond  the  Hitnalayan  chain,  had  the  Government  of  India 
in  yean  gone  by  encouraged  and  promoted  the  views  of  those  officers  of  the  Survey 
and  others  who  were  able  and  willing  to  penetrat43  beyond  this  frontier,  when 
splendid  opportunities  presented  themselves  to  advance  the  survey. 

Soon  after  this  expedition  to  Khotan,  Mr,  Johnson  retired  from  the  service  of 
the  Indian  Government,  having  received  an  offer  of  employment  from  the  Mahanijah 
of  Kashmir,  and  of  his  work  since  1866  I  can  personally  give  no  record.  He 
beome  Governor  and  Joint-Commissioner  of  Ladakh,  and  we  hear  of  him 
goring  official  and  valuable  aid  to  the  different  political  missions  which  the 
Indian  Government  afterwards  sent  to  Yarkand,  notably  that  under  Sir  Douglas 
Forsyth.  For  this  service,  and  for  the  additions  he  had  made  to  the  geographical 
knowledge  which  we  possess  of  the  country  beyond  the  KAnikuram  range,  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  in  1875  presented  him  with  a  guld  watch. 

1  was  a  fellow-worker  with  Mr.  Johnson  in  the  Kashmir  mountains  firom  1857  to 
1863,  and  feel  sure  that  he  must  have  been  a  valued  and  truhied  servant  of  the 
Maharajah,  and  his  position  must  have  been  one  most  difficiilt  to  fill  without 
creating  great  jealousy,  and,  no  doubt,  many  enemies.  It  has  been  a  sad  task 
looking  back  on  past  years  and  recalling  thereby  many  who  are  now  gone.  His 
services  have  been  of  no  ordinary  kind,  and  I  am  glad  now  to  be  able  to  bring 
them  to  public  notice  as  they  deserve.  He  always  showed  great  tact  in  dealing 
with  the  natives  of  the  country,  and  thoroughly  understood  and  knew  how  to 
manage  them.  He  possessed  great  powers  of  endurance,  and  when  I  knew  him  was 
ooe  of  the  most  zealous,  persevering,  hard-workers  among  the  sub-aHsistants  of  the 
Kashmir  Survey  party,  and  the  successful  completion  of  that  survey  to  a  very  great 
extent  depended  on  his  exertions. 

All  who  knew  Mr.  Johnson  then  will  .deplore  his  untimely  end,  his  age  being 
only  fifty-one,  and  therefore  with  apparently  many  more  years  of  usefulness  before 
him. 

Dr.  J.  H.  Ziegler. — Our  much-respected  Honorary  Corresponding  Member 
Dr.  Johann  Melchior  Ziegler,  the  well-known  cartographer  of  Winterthur  in  Switzer- 
land, died  on  the  1st  of  April  last,  in  his  82nd  year.  He  was  born  on  the  27th  of 
November,  1801,  the  only  son  of  a  prosijerous  merchant  of  Winterthur,  who 
nattually  looked  forward  to  his  adopting  the  same  walk  in  life  as  his  father,  and 
succeeding  to  the  family  business,  but  the  inclination  of  the  school-boy  towards 
mathematics  and  the  physical  sciences  was  so  strong  that  after  completing  his 


294 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


ordinary  education  at  various  scliools  in  his  native  cjountry,  he  waa  sent  to  the 
Centrale  at  Paris,  to  be  tmined  for  a  scientific  career.  His  course  of  study  was  cut 
sliort  by  the  death  of  his  father,  when  Zieglcr,  now  twenty-three  years  of  oge,  had  to 
return  to  his  native  town  and  make  an  effort  to  Btifle  Mb  private  lonpings  and  to  keep 
up  the  paternal  business.  It  was  a  vain  one,  and  he  eventually  abandoned  it  and 
devoted  himself  to  scientific  pursuits.  He  ajipeara  to  have  been  led  to  the  apedal 
study  of  geography  by  attending  some  of  the  lectures  of  Carl  Ritter,  during  a  viail 
he  paid  about  this  time  to  Berlin.  On  his  return  to  Winterthur  from  tliis  journey, 
he  founded  the  cartographical  cstablishmetit  of  Wurster  and  Randeggcr,  which  be 
conducted  for  many  years,  and  which  gained  a  wide  rcpuUitiou  for  the  long  series 
of  maps  of  Switzerland  produced  under  his  direction.  He  wrote  besides  numerous 
treatises  on  topography,  jihysical  geogi'aphy,  and  kindred  subjects,  some  of  which 
were  afterwards  translated  iDtx>  Frtnch  and  had  a  wide  circulation. 

Dr.  Ziegler  was  elected  a  Honorary  Corresponding  Member  of  our  Society  at  the 
Anniversary  Meeting  in  1B53,  where  hia  titles  to  the  honoiu"  was  stated  to  he  hia 
"  Atlas  of  St.  Gall  and  Appenzell,  and  his  general  maps  of  Switzerland."  For  many 
years  he  paid  an  annual  visit  to  London,  and  spent  most  of  his  time  in  our  Map 
Hoom  and  Library.  In  bis  own  country  ho  wjis  held  in  high  esteem  and  filled  at 
various  times  responsible  offices  disconnected  with  politics. 


n 


CORKESPONDENCE. 

The  Norse  Colonif  of  East  Bijgd  in  Greenland  and  Baron 
Nordenskiold's  'projected  Expedition, 

Mr.  Major  has  addressed  the  following  letter  to  the  President  on  the  above 
subjects: — 

51,  Holland  Road,  KxswsQrov,  April  lih,  188S. 

Dear  Lord  Aberdare, — Two  communications  have  been  recently  transmitted  to  the 
Council  of  the  Boyal  Geographical  Society  from  the  Foreign  OflSce,  respectively  from  the 
British  Ministers  at  Stockholm  and  Copenhagen,  with  reference  to  the  most  interest- 
ing contemplated  expedition  of  our  illustrious  Meiiallist  Baron  Nordenskjold  to  Green- 
laud  at  the  eud  of  next  month.*  In  both  these  letters  the  statement  is  made  that  a 
leading  object  in  this  esiMjditiou  is  to  search  for  traces  of  the  two  ancient  Xorso 
colonies  from  Iceland,  which  flourished  in  Greenland  from  the  eud  of  the  tenth  to 
the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and  especially  to  search  for  the  site  of  the 
easternmost  colony  called  the  Oester  Bygden,  or  East  By<>d,  by  far  the  larger  and 
more  important  of  the  two,  which  Baron  Nordenskjold  believes  lay  on  the  east  and 
not  on  the  west  coast.  It  is  not  often  that  the  antiquarian  side  of  geography  is 
presented  to  the  attention  of  the  Council,  but  as  a  mistake  in  this  matter  would 
cause  great  loss  of  time  and  toil,  and  as  the  only  evidence  to  boar  upou  it  is  of  the 
antiquarian  kind,  I  think  I  ought  to  mention  to  your  Lordship  and  the  Council  that 
this  part  of  the  distinguished  explorer's  most  important  project  is  certainly  founded 
on  a  mistake.  If  the  question  were  a  mere  matter  of  opinion,  I  should  not  presume 
to  write  this  letter  at  all,  and,  moreover,  there  is  no  one  living  to  whose  judgment  on 
such  a  subject  I  should  more  respectfaliy  defer  than  to  that  of  the  leamedj)rDfessor 
himself.  _ 

*  The  Bubstanoe  of  those  communications  waa  given  in  Geographical  Notes,  in  the 
Proceediuga,'  aute^  pp.  lljS,  23L — [Ea] 


I 
I 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


295 


I 


I 


The  evidence  which  I  propose  briefly  to  adduce  is  this.  In  1349  a  descent  was 
made  hj  the  Eskimo  nix)n  the  West  Bvgd,  and  Ivar  Bardsen,  a  Greenlauder,  who 
luid  been  for  many  years  steward  or  lay  justiciary  to  the  Bishop  of  Gardar  iu  the 
East  Bygd,  was  sent  to  convey  succour  to  the  sister  colony.  01"  this  ocimrrence  he 
btt  left  a  record,  as  well  as  sailing  dircctious  for  reaching  the  East  Bygd,  Ixith  from 
Bergoi  in  Norway,  and  from  Iceland,  together  with  a  chorogrftphy  of  GreenUud  itself. 
We  cannot,  therefore,  doubt  that  ho  knew  the  i)Osition  of  the  colony  of  which  he 
•peaks.  Of  course,  I  quote  no  more  than  is  necessary.  Ivar  Bardsen  brings  us  by 
am  to  a  highland  in  Greenland,  named  Hvarf,  a  word  which  means  a  turning-point, 
a&d  is  the  same  which  in  the  north  of  Scotland  has  taken  the  shape  of  Capo  Wrath. 
From  this  point  he  takes  us  first  easitvards^  and  says  that  "uuder  Uvarf  lies  Hor- 
joliknaes,  and  the  inhabited  part  of  Greenlattd  lying  the  most  to  the  tastj  and  juxt  to 
JJeryuI/snaeg  on  the  east  is  called  Skage  Fjord,  which  is  a  very  much  frequented  place.*' 
He  then,  by  long  leaps,  brings  us  to  two  fjords  quite  uninhabited,  named  respectively 
Bereljord  and  OtUum  Lengri,  and  further  still  to  the  ejist  to  an  island  nameii  Karsoe, 
"  beyond  which  nothing  can  be  seen  on  sea  or  land  but  ice  and  snow."  He  then  brings 
na  hack  to  his  starting-point  Uvarf,  and  thence  leads  ns  weatward*^  describing 
aeriaiim  the  different  fjords  and  Icicalities  of  the  East  Bygd,  about  whose  names  thero 
is  no  manner  of  doubt,  as  several  of  them  are  mentioned  in  the  Sagas  and  the  other 
oborographies.  And  now  what  follows  is  deserving  of  special  notice.  After  leading 
US  from  place  to  place,  gradually  westward  to  a  fjord  called  Ericksfjord,  he  says, 
**  nintkwards  from  Ericksfjord  are  two  arms  of  the  sea,  named  Ydrevig  and  Indrevig. 
Next,  northwards  lies  Bredefjord  ;  thence /a  rMer  to  the  north  is  Eyrai  fjord  and  so  on 
to  laeQord,  which  is  the  most  wuttrly  fjord  in  the  East  Bygd."  He  then  says  that 
between  the  East  and  West  Bygda  was  a  space  of  12  nautical  miles  of  entirely  unin- 
habited coast,  and  finishes  his  chorngraphy  by  saying  that  the  West  Bygd  had  been 
entirely  depopulated  by  the  Skrelliugs. 

Now  it  is  plain  that  this  series  of  places  running  westwards  from  Hvarf  cannot 
poBsibiy  be  on  the  cast  coast,  for  let  ns  place  Hvarf  on  that  coast  wherever  we  may, 
every  step  we  then  take  to  the  west  leads  us  more  and  more  to  the  south,  while 
Ivar  Bardsen  makes  the  last-named  places  in  the  series  go  more  and  more  to  the 
north.  On  Uie  west  coast,  of  course,  the  case  is  exactly  reversed.  It  follows,  there- 
fore, that  Hvarf  is  either  Cape  Farewell,  or  some  headland  near  it,  for  if  the  series 
of  pkces  eastwards  from  Hvarf  brings  us  to  whore  •'  one  can  go  no  further  for  the 
Ice  and  anow  "  which  are  characteristics  of  the  north,  and  if  the  series  of  names 
Westwards  terminates  also  with  places  more  and  yet  more  to  the  north,  it  stands  to 
neaon  that  Hvarf  itself  must  bo  a  point  at  the  south  between  the  two  and,  conse- 
quently, the  East  Bygd,  by  Ivar  Bardsen's  showing,  must  of  necessity  have  lain 
to  the  west  of  the  southern  point  of  Greenland. 

Although  neither  of  these  lines  of  thought  seems  ever  to  have  occurred  to  any 
commentator  for  the  last  three  centuries,  they  are,  1  trust,  not  the  less  conclusive  for 
allthaU 

Sir  Horace  Rnmbold  in  his  letter  isays  that  "  Professor  Nordenskjold's  resolution 
to  visit  Greenland  was,  no  doubt,  in  part  awakened  by  the  discovery  he  made  of  a 
MS.  map  of  the  northern  countries  of  Europe  (preserved  in  the  Library  of  Nancy, 
and  of  which  be  has  just  published  a  facsimile),  made  at  Rome  in  1427,  sistj'-five 
years  before  the  first  voyage  of  Columbus.  This  most  curious  map,  the  earliest 
known  of  its  kind,  contains  an  outline  of  the  coast  of  Greenhind  almost  accurate  as 
to  geographical  position,  and  clearly  marketl  as  Groulandia  Proviucia."  So  intensely 
intereating  a  date  as  this  excited  my  curiosity  to  the  highest  pitch,  but  I  met  with 
great  disappointment  The  map  is  from  a  MS.  Ptolemy,  and  exhibits  only  a  festooned 
itnaginarj  suggeBtion  of  a  part  of  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  with  the  l^end 


296 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 


**  Gronkndia  Provincia,"  but  without  the  name  of  one  single  place  upon  it,  whereas 
the  Zeno  map  which  is  a  whole  century  earlier  than  the  first  voyage  of  Columbus 
across  the  Atlantic,  shows  the  entire  a^ast  of  Greenland  east  and  west,  with  aa 
accuracy  most  astonishing  in  a  map  500  years  old,  and  contains  a  considerable 
number  of  names  indicatiagex])loratiofl  and  actual  geographical  knowledge.  Among 
these  occurs  "  Af  promontorium,"  answering  to  "Hvarf,"in  exactly  the  aoatb«m 
position  which  1  have  already  described. 

It  will  be  extremely  interesting  if  our  honoured  medallist  should  oonae  upon  the 
traces  of  an  extinct  volcano,  which  certainly  was  in  activity  at  the  time  of  the  Zeoi, 
for  not  only  does  ^liccolo  Zeno  say  that  he  found  a  monastery  hard  by  a  hill  which 
vomited  fire  like  Veeuvius  and  Etna,  but  his  brother  Antonio  relates  how  he  and 
Earl  Sinclair  at  a  later  period  descried  from  the  southern  point  of  Greenland  a 
mountain  in  the  distance  which  poured  forth  smoke,  and  which  was  verified  as  a 
volcano  by  a  party  of  a  hundred  men  sent  out  by  him,  and  who  returned  after  eight 
days'  absence. 

R.  H.  Major. 


REPOET  OF  THE  EYENINa  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882-3. 

Ninth  Meeting^  9fA  Aprils  1883. — The  Right  Hon.  Lord  Aberdars, 
President,  ia  the  Chair. 

Elkctioks. — The  Jiev.  Adam  Carrie;  C.  Campbell  Downes^  Esq./  Edwin  Fox^ 
Esq.;  Lonia  F.  Qowam^  Esq.;  Henry  Harper,  Faq.;  Edward  Arthur  IIttghe$^ 
Eaq.;  Ewart  JukeSy  Esq.;  The  Marquis  of  Lfznadowne ;  Arthur  J/o»er,  Esq.; 
AtheUtan  Rihy^  Es-j.,  b.a.  ;  Hon.  Donald  A.  Smiih;  Oliver  Roper  Strickland^ 
Eaq.;  Dr.  A.  Boyle  Thompson;  W.  Birkinshaw  Wilkinson^  Esq.;  Major  John 
Wilson. 

The  ifxiper  of  the  evening  was — 

"  The  Basins  of  the  Amam-mayu  and  the  Beni,  with  the  recent  Exploration  of 
the  latter  by  Dr.  Edwin  R.  Ileath."    By  C.  R.  Markham,  c.b.,  f.b.8.,  Secretary  B.o.a. 

To  be  publishwi  in  the  June  No.  of  the  'Proceedings.* 


Tenih  Meeting,  23rd  April,  1883.— The  Eight  Hon.  Lord  Aberdare, 

PrBHident,  in  the  Chair. 

Presentatiok.— Z?.  G.  F.  Macdonald,  Esq. 

ELECTI0N8. — J.  M.  Barhour^  Ftq.;  Arthur  Hugh  Smith  Barry ^  Eaq. ;  H. 
Erichson,  Esq. ;  Francig  George  Gunniaj  Esq. ;  Major  Wtltiam  George  Bemfrty 
Herd;  Fung  Yih  {Secretary  to  the  Chineae  Embassy);  Thomas  Hastings  I^fta^ 
Esq.;  Edward  Ledwitk  Mif/ord,  Esq.;  Charles  G.  Nottaye^  Esq. ;  The  Rev.  Alfred 
Roebuck ;  William  S.  Routhdge,  Esq.,  b.a.  ;  Trelawney  Saunders^  Eaq. ;  The 
F.  A,  Steivart  Savile ;  John  Medley  Steivart,  Esq, 

The  President  announced  that  the  Royal  Medals  and  other  awards  for  the  y< 
1883  had  that  day  been  adjudicated  by  the  Council.     They  were  as  follows  : — 

The  Founder's  Medal  to  Sir  Joseph  Dalton  Hooker,  f.r.b,,  for  his  eminent 
services  to  Scientific  Greography,  extending  through  a  long  series  of  years  and  over  a 
large  portion  of  the  globe,  while  engaged  in  voyages  in  the  Antarctic  and  Australian 
Seas,  and  journeys  in  India  and  the  Himalaya,  in  Morocco,  and  in  the  United  States 


PROCEEDINGS  OP  FORHIGN  SOCIETIES. 


297 


cf  America;  aud  more  especially  for  bla  long^ontiaacd  researches  in  I3otanical  Gco- 
grapfaj,  ivliich  have  thrown  light  on  the  form  of  t^.e  land  in  pre-historic  times,  and  on 
the  oauaes  of  the  present  distribution  of  tlie  variouB  form*  of  vegetable  life  on  the  earth. 
The  Patron's  Medal  to  E.  Colborxe  BABEn,  Chinese  Secretary  to  H.B.M.  Legation, 
Peking,  in  recognition  of  the  great  value  of  his  scientiQc  work,  chietly  googiaphicalp 
duringmany  exploratory  journeys  in  the  interior  of  China  ;  and  for  his  Ileports  of  these 
journeys,  drawn  up  with  adnurable  skill,  accuracy,  and  completeness,  which  he 
pccKOted  to  the  Society,  and  which  have  been  published,  together  with  route  maps 
engraved  from  his  own  fioiHbed  drawings,  in  the  first  part  of  the  "  Sapplementary 
Pkpen.' 

TheMorchison  Grant  for  1883  to  Wm.Dkaks  C<»wa?«  for  his  extensive  surveys  in 
the  Tanala,  Betsileo,  and  Bara  Provinces  of  Central  Madagascar,  an  account  of  which 
was  read  by  him  to  the  Society  in  June  1882,  and  published  in  the  September  No. 
^_^of  the  *  Proceedings '  of  the  same  year.  Also  as  an  encouragement  to  him  in  the  new 
^^faoninery  of  exploration  he  is  about  to  undertake  in  Western  Madagascar. 
^F  The  Back  Grant  for  1883  to  L'Abbe  Petitot,  for  his  geographical  and  ethno- 
^P  graphical  researches  in  the  region  of  the  great  lakes  of  the  Arctic  basin,  between 
'        Great  Slave  Lake  and  the  Polar  Sea,  and  his  Map  of  the  Baxin  of  the  Mackenzie. 

The  Cuthbert  Peek  Grant  for  1883  to  F,  C.  Skm^us  in  acknowledgment  of  the 
value  of  his  Geographical  researches  in  Slouth  Centra!  Africa,  including  a  journey  in 
^^  1877  through  the  Manica  country,  north  of  the  Zambesi,  published  with  a  map  in 
^■onr  'Proceedings'  (1881,  p.  109),  an  examination  of  the  hydrographical  system  of 
"  the  Chobe  (' Proceedings,'  1881,  p.  71),  and  two  journey «  by  previously  untrodden 
routes  through  Mashona-land  (*  Proceedings,'  1881,  p.  352,  and  1883,  May  No.), 
carefully  prepared  maps  of  which  he  communicated  to  the  Society.     Also  as  an 
encouragement  to  him  in  the  further  researches  in  geography  and  natural  history  he 
has  undertaken  in  the  same  region. 
I^H        The  following  Honorary  Corresjwnding  Members  had  also  been  elected  : — 
^f      DucA   m  Seemojteta  (Prince  Teano),  President  of  the  Italian  Geographical 
'       Society,  and  of  tlie  International  Geographical  Congress  at  Venice,  188L 

Dr.  ScBWEiKFCBTH,  the  eminent  African  traveller ;  now  resident  at  Cairo. 
Edwiv  R.  Heath,  m.o.,  the  explorer  of  the  Beni  river.  South  America;  now- 
resident  at  Wyandotte,  Kunsas,  United  States. 
The  followinii  paper  was  then  read  : 

"China,  in  its  Physical  and  Social  Aspects."       P.y  E.  Colborne  Baber,  Esq,, 
Chinese  Secretary  to  H.M.'s  Legation,  Peking. 

Will  be  published  in  a  subsequent  No.  of  the  '  Proceeding^.' 


K       Wi 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOllEIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Geographical  Society  of  PariB.— April  6th,  1883 :  M.  Bouquet  de  la 
Gbtz,  Vice-President  of  the  Central  Commission,  in  the  Chair. — The  Minister  of 
Public  Works  transmitte*!  the  hydrological  map  of  the  Department  of  the  Seine,  in 
4  sheets,  new  edition,  by  the  late  M.  Delesse,  mining  engineer. — At  Brussels  a 
National  Institute  of  Geography  has  just  been  established,  which  announced  to  the 

[jety  its  formation.  The  object  of  this  private  institution  ia  to  popularise  the 
idy  of  geography  by  the  publication  of  Atlases,  maps,  and  works  relating  to  Belgium. 
It  proposes  to  revive  in  the  country  a  national  industry  which  formerly  enjoyed 
greftt  prosperity.     The  Institute  further  undertakes  the  printing  and  publication  of 

No.  v.— Hat  1883.]  x 


■Bu<] 


298 


PKOCEEDIA'QS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


all  geogrnphical  works,  as  well  as  the  buying  and  selling  of  instramente  uk} 
nppflratU3  wnnectcd  with  geography. — The  *'  Societe  des  Touristos  du  Daupluod,*' 
which  has  been  in  existODCf  since  1875,  annomiced  that  it  had  just  establihbed  a 
section  at  Paris,  cailed  the  "  Paris  Section,"  the  object  of  which  ia  to  maice  the 
public  of  the  capital  acquaintod  with  the  picturesque  mountains  of  the  province  of 
Duuphiny,  which  are  slill  so  little  known,  and  to  gather  together  the  friends 
interested  in  the  Alps  and  in  geography.  The  Society  has  already  constructed 
clj/ilets,  refuges,  mid  shelters  in  the  Daujthineso  Alps;  it  has  engaged  guides,  whonm 
it  has  furnished  with  rojies  and  ali>en8tocks — all  tlieae  oi)erations  have  involved  an 
ex[>enditure  of  more  than  800^.  (20,000  francs). — From  Vienna  (Austria)  the  Society 
wus  informed  that  a  Ijequest  had  been  made  to  the  Imperial  Academy  of  Sciences 
of  that  city  by  M.  Pone.  Tiiis  legacy  consists  of  a  house  worth  GOOOZ.  (150,000 
Irancs),  and  the  income  derived  therefrom  is  to  be  devoted  to  the  aupixirt  of  traveUeni 
m  Turkey. — News,  datiti  from  Bafulabe  (Up[iier  Senegal)  IVith  February,  wm 
ruoeived  from  Dr.  Bayol,  in  which  ho  states  tliat  the  events  of  Kaarta  will  probably 
put  an  end  to  his  scientific  raisaion  sooner  than  he  expected.  However,  having 
^tartcd  fram  Bafulabe  on  the  15th  of  January,  he  had  already  tnivorsed  eastern 
Kha^ao  aud  Tomam,  collecting  interesting  information  and  making  coUeciions, 
wliich  will  bo  placed  in  the  Faria  Natural  History  Museum.     He  hati  surveyed 

J  44  ruileH  of  very  mountainous  country,  which  up  to  the  present  time  was  unexplored. 

'  Tn  the  collections  which  ho  will  bring  back  with  him,  there  are  forty-five  wood- 
cajicnces  j  he  has,  moreover,  diacoverod  a  forest  of  ebony-trees  in  Senegal,  which  is 
not  less  than  six  miles  in  extent.     He  has  collected  the  lejives  of  a  tree  from  which 
a  colouring  principle  can   bo   extracted  which  stands  the  test  of  washing  most 
satisfactorily.     His  ornithological  collection  consiBts  of  150  birds.    In  his  mineralo- 
gical  coUeclion  tiiere  is  a  metalliferous  rock,  on  the  subject  of  which  he  does  not  ^ 
venture  to  pronounce  an  opinion;  this  piece  of  rock,  wiiidi  he  found  in  the  bed  of  a 
gr^at  river  not  yet  described,  vix.  the  Ganboma  (or  Garbotna),  contains  a  white  I 
motab — A  letter  was  received  from  M,  Ernest  Desjardins  of  the  Institute  (Academy 
of  Inscriptions  and  Litertttiire)  on  the  subject  of  the  ancient  town  of  ZaniA^  the  site 
of  which  has  jus*  been  discovered  at  Sv  Amor  Djedidi, — this  latter  plac<^  being  j 
situate  on  the  north-west  of  the  great  plain  of  Kairwan  (Tunis),  and  on  the  south- 
■cast  of  Kef.    M.  Letnille,  whu  is  engaged  in  a  scientific  mission  in  Tunis,  has  sent 
an  inscription,  which   he   has  just   met  with,  and  on   it  there  is  represented  a 
muoicii>al  magistrate  of  the  *'Culonia  Zamensia."    This  inscription  is  certain  to 
have  been  commented  upon  by  M.  Desjardins  at  the  recent  meetings  of  the  Academy, 
— The  Society  had  its  attention  again  drawn  to  ancient  geography  by  a  communica-  ] 
tion  from  M.  Romanet  du  C^iillaud,  relative  to  certain  passages  in  the  'Geography' 
of  Edriai,     The  point  at  issue  is  the  identification  of  several  French  towns,  which 
Arabian  geography  has  designated  under  the  name?  of  Morlans,  Burgoch,  and  Ach.  ' 
The  writer  idetitifies  the  first  of  these  localities  with  Morlaas,  the  ancient  capital  ol  i 
B«5arn  (and  not  with  Montauban,  as  has  been  believed  up  to  the  i^resent  time);  th«  | 
second  with  Perigueux;  and  the  third  with  the  ancient  Agedunum  (Ahun)  in  the! 
Haute-Marno. — The  Society  was  informed  of  the  principal  subjects  of  a  lecture  j 
delivered  recently  at  the  Italian  Gcogrnj>hJcal  Society  ut  Rome  by  ^t,  Lovisato^  I 
fellow-traveller  with  Lieutenant  Bove,    The  lecture  was  concerned  chiefly  with  thaj 
geographical  observations  and  discoveries  made  by  him  at  Tierra  del  Fuego  in  Pata-| 
gonia  and  in  the  Pampiis.     The  lecturer  dwelt  at  great  length  on  Staten  lilatid,.] 
where  lie  has  made  important  surveys.     He  has  given  Italian  names  to  the  mouu- 
tniins,  bays,  straita,  and  glaciers,  which  had  not  borne  any  name  before.     M.  Lovisato  j 
has  expressed  the  opinion  that  in  the  Antarctic  region  there  exists  not  a  sea  but  al 
Continent. — A  short  pai«r  was  read  on  Le-suto,  or  the  country  of  the  Ba-sutoal 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


299 


(Suuth  Africa),  the  paper  being  a  supplement  to  &  map  prepared  by  M.  C.  Kriiger. 
ICopica?  of  this  map,  which  is  only  an  experiment,  engraved  under  the  anspices  of  the 
J  Bociely,  were  distributed  among  the  audience.     This  map,  which  is  the  most  com- 
I  |Uete  map  published  before  1882  (Hall's  map  excepted),  is  the  only  one  which  pves 
l«n  at  atl  accurate  configiiratioo  of  the  conntry.      Thus,  for  example,  all  anterior 
linaiit«  place  the  frontier  north  of  Lo-auto,  and  therefore  that  of  the  Free  State 
'immediately  to  the  north  of  Thaba  Bossigo ;  and  they  give  to  the  Orange  Republic 
&U  tbe  oonntnr  of  the  sources,  which  is,  so  to  speak,  the  natural  ba^e  of  Lc-suto. 
The  aoconnt  which  accompanies  the  map,  prepared  by  M.  Kriiger,  has  been  written 
by  Pastor  Appia  and  by  M.  Jousse,  French  Protestant  mis,siunary,  who  has  resided 
Lin   the  country  thirty-two  years,  and  has  only  just  left  his  apostolic  ministry. 
f  Le-snto  is  situate  between  the  28th  and  31«t  iinrallels  of  S.  latitude.     The  popula- 
tion (137,OX)  souls)  is  very  peAceable ;  the  natives  are  industrious  and  therefore 
much  sought  after  in  Capo  Colony ;  they  exercise  a  great  influence  on  the  neigh- 
bottring  tribes.     The  social  ami  moral  development  of  the  country  is  very  remark- 
^Able.     The  French  mission  has  introduced  into  the  country  the  cultivation  uf  wheat, 
use,  grapes,  and  potatoes ;  to-day  the  fruits  of  the  orchard  can  be  gathered  there, 
)  peaches,  apples,  figs,  pears,  cherries,  &c,  and  all  the  agricultural  products  of 
I  sooth  of  France. — M.  Jousse,  who  was  present  at  tlio  meeting,  spi^ke  in  confijin- 
fation  of  the  information  he  himself  ha^l  furnished  in  the  aViovo  paper.    He  dwelt 
ebi«dy  on  the  education  which  is  given  in  the  schools  of  the  country,  and  of  the 
degree  of  civilisation  which  the  natives  have  attained.     The  same  missionary  pre- 
'  seated  to  the  Biireau  a  large  map  of  the  country  of  the  Namaquas,  for  the  library  of 
che  society. — M.  Louis  Simonin  then  entertained  the  Society  wnth  some  information 
upon  the  four  ports  of  Great  Britain,  viz.  London,  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  and  Newcastle, 
dascrlbing  the  continued  developraent  of  each.    M.  Simonin  is  the  author  of  a  work 
imblishcd  under  this  same  title:    *Lea  Ports  de  la  Grande  Brotagno*  (Paris: 
Hachette,  12mo.),  but,  as  he  said,  the  progress  of  these  four  merchant  jKirts  has  been 
«o  ra}>id  during  recent  years,  that  the  information  contained  in  the  above-mentioned 
work  is  already  very  much  out  of  date. — In  conclusion  a  oommuni&ition  from  M. 
^Carl  Bock  on  his  journey  to  the  north  of  Bangkok  and  Laos  (Siara)  was  read.    A 
map,  giving  a  sketch  of  the  route  of  the  traveller  from  Raheng  to  Xien-Sen,  was 
handed  rotmd  during  the  meeting. 

Societe  Khediviale  de  Geographic,  Cairo.— February  IGth,  1883.— M. 
Mosionas,  who  is  engaged  in  study 5 ug  Egyptian  archeology,  and  who  has  resided 
I  fir  many  years  in  the  Egyptian  Soudan,  read  a  paper  of  great  interest  on  the 
llad^niioaa,  in  which  he  maintained  that  he  had  found  evident  traces  in  this  tribe 
of  the  langnage,  the  manners,  the  beliefs,  and  the  customs  of  ancient  Egypt.  He 
instanced  many  words  in  support  of  his  views  and  announced  that  he  had  drawn  up 
m  short  vocabulary  and  a  number  of  facts :  the  ethnographical  type  also,  ho  main- 
Uined,  showed  that  the  Hadendoas  wore  the  ancestors  of  the  Egyptians,  and  he 
invited  the  Government  to  give  encouragement  to  studies  on  this  subject. — A  com- 
munication was  read  from  Mason  Bey,  on  the  railways  of  the  Soudan.  The  reading 
was  preceded  by  a  note  of  M.  Bonola,  the  general  secretary,  on  all  the  projwsals  and 
projects  that  had  been  submitted  to  the  Egyptian  Government  relative  to  railvrays. 
Malion  Bey  behoves  that  from  Wa^ly  Haifa  a  railway  line  might  be  traced  to  Ammara 
and  that  from  there  the  river  could  be  navigated  to  Meraveri,  if  the  difficult  points 
were  turned  by  tramways.  As  to  the  eastern  line,  he  proposes  a  route  for  the  rail- 
way,  not  from  Suakim  to  Berber,  but  from  Tokar  by  the  Khor  Barka  to  Kassalxt, 
and  from  there  to  Khartum  or  Abu  Harras.  This  route  would  have  the  advantage 
of  running  through  a  cultivated  and  lertile  country. 

X  2 


(     300     ) 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E,  C.  Rtk,  Librarian  B.G.g.) 

ASIA. 

Bird,  Isabella  L.  (Mrs.  Bishop). — TheGoldeti  Chersonese  and  the  Way  thither. 
I^mdon  (John  Murray) :  18B3,  crown  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  384,  map,  illustration*. 
Price  14a. 

The  authoress  commences  with  a  description  of  the  incidents  of  her  joaroey 
from  .Jftpan  to  Hongkong,  Caotou,  and  up  tne  Mekong  to  Saigon  (where  during 
her  short  stay  she  visited  the  native  town  of  Cholen).  According  to  her  infor- 
mant*, Europeans  cannot  be  acclimatised  in  French  Cochin  China,  and  most  of 
the  children  born  of  white  parents  die  shortly  after  birth;  the  shores  of  the 
sea  and  rivers  are  scourged  by  severe  intermittent  fevers,  and  the  whole  of  the 
colony  by  dyjsentery,  which  is  particularly  fatal  among  Exiropeans ;  the  mean 
teraiiernture  is  83°  Fahr.,  the  dampness  unusual,  and  the  nights  too  hot  to 
refresh  after  the  heat  of  the  day.  Itice  forms  half  the  ex^iorts;  and  about 
700  vessels  enter  and  leave  Saigon  in  a  year. 

She  then  describes  her  exiwric-nces  in  the  Straits  Settlements,  beginning 
with  Sin<:^|x>re,  from  which  capital  she  visited  Malacca  (to  all  intenta  and 
purposes  a  Dutch  town)  and  the  protected  little  native  state  of  Sungei-Ujong, 
which  has  12,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  three  only  are  Europeans.  An  interest- 
ing short  account  is  given  of  thf>  chief  characteristics  of  this  State,  in  whidi 
the  thermometer  rangt-a  from  6B°  to  92%  and  the  rainfall  averages  100  inches 
per  annum.  She  ascended  the  tortuous  IJnggi  river  for  eome  60  miles  till  it 
was  a  mere  jungle  path,  to  iliujsa  and  the  British  Residency  at  Serambang, 
Bta3ring  there  some  days  and  returning  to  Malacca.  A  compiled  chapter  on 
Selan£!or  follows  (moatly  from  Mr.  Daly's  paper  in  the  R.G.S.  'Proceedings* 
for  July  last),  with  narrative  of  a  visit  to  the  Briliali  Residency,  then  at  Klang, 
but  now  removed  to  Kwala  Lumpor,  the  centre  of  the  tin-mining  industry. 
From  that  point  she  sailed  in  Sulian  AUlulsamat's  yacht  down  the  Klang 
river,  up  the  Langat,  and  among  the  islands  of  the  coast,  visiting  the  Sultan 
himself;  and  after  returning  to  Kkng  asceu'ied  the  Bernam  river  to  Sekngor 
(a  wretched  place,  worse  even  than  Klang).  In  the  same  vessel  she  then 
reached  the  Bindings  and  Pinang,  which  she  descril)cs  with  sjiecial  reference 
to  Greorgetown  and  its  environs.  A  chapter  on  Perak  ("  Payrah  ^)  is  given, 
with  short  notice  of  Province  Wellesley  and  aa  account  of  a  juumey  to  Larnt, 
where  some  stay  was  mode,  after  which  the  authoress  went  to  the  Biitish 
Residency  at  Kwala  Eangsa,  at  the  junction  of  the  Kangsa  and  Perak  rivers, 
150  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  and  also  to  the  British  Residency  at 
Taipeng,  retnrning  to  Pinang. 

The  map  ahowa  the  Malay  Peninsula  with  Perak  on  a  larger  scale  ;  and  the 
sixteen  plates  represent  native  buildings,  scenerj',  plants,  &c. 

ColqnllOTini  ArcMbald  B.- — Across  Chryse,  being  the  Narrative  of  a  Journey  of 
Exploration  through  the  South  China  Border  Lands  from  Canton  to  Mandalay. 
London  (Sampson  Low  &  Co.)  :  1883,  2  vols.,  8 vo.,  pp.  xxx.  and  420,  xvi.  and  408, 
maps,  illustrations.    Price  21.  2s. 

The  main  features  of  the  author's  journey  were  given  by  him  in  onr 
'Proceedings'  for  last  December  (pp  713—730),  and  he  now  supplies  the 
details  of  his  personal  observations  on  iho  Canton  river  t<i  Pe-so,  and  thence  on 
his  road  through  Southern  Yunnan  to  Ssu-mao  or  Esmok  on  the  boundary  of  the 
independent  SLan  States  (where  ho  was  obliged  to  abandon  the  most  imjiortaut 
jxtrtion  of  Lis  object),  and  northwards  up  the  Papien  valley  to  TaU,  where 
he  struck  westwards  across  the  Chinese  frontier  to  Bhamo,  which  is  described  at 
the  end  of  vol.  ii.,  the  crossing  of  CJliryse  or  Indo-China  being  summarisetl  in 
the  last  chapter.  It  is  impossible  here  (esiiecially  as  Mr,  Colquhoun's  book  is 
published  almost  simultaneously  with  the  present  Number)  to  ^give  a  sufficient 
idea  of  the  extent  and  value  of  his  observations  j  but  some  conception  of  them 


4 


NEW  BOOKS. 


301 


timr  he  formed  from  the  number  and  the  trustworthy  sources  of  the  ocoompanying 
1 1  hist  rat  ions.  'I'hese,  amountiog  to  270  (many  of  them  full  pag;e),  are  either 
frum  onginal  photoj^pha,  or  from  sketches  by  the  author  or  his  deceased  com- 
{«tiioD»  Mr.  Charles  VVahab ;  aod  they  represent  objects  of  interest  of  the  most 
varied  kind,  including  dbtinctive  features  of  physical  geography,  landscapes  of 
▼ery  considerable  beauty,  ancient  and  modern  buildings,  racial  types,  town  and 
rural  customs  and  industries,  co!«timies,  implements,  &c.,  which,  esiiecially  when 
refcrrinfr  to  the  practically  before  unknown  parts  of  Southern  Yunnan,  canuot 
fail  to  be  of  permanent  interest.  When  it  is  understood  that  the  narrative  to 
which  these  are  adjuncts  was  absolutely  written  on  the  spot,  its  value  on  the 
60ore  of  freahnesa  and  accuracy  will  be  evident. 

The  first  half  of  vol,  i.  is  occupied  with  the  incidents  of  the  voyage  np  the 
Canton  river  to  the  eastern  frontier  of  Yunnan,  and  the  plotting  of  the  survey 
of  '.his  portion  was  actually  finished  during  the  journey,  the  remainder  (to 
Tali)  still  awaiting  completion,  when  the  whole  will  be  submitted  to  the 
lloyal  Geographical  Society.  The  remainder  of  this  volume  takes  the  reader  to 
Liiuia. 

Vol,  ii.  commences  with  the  journey  from  Linan  across  the  Song-ka  by 
Yuan-kiang,  Talan,  and  Puerh  to  Ssu-mao,  at  which  point  further  progress  in 
the  desirrd  direct  on  was  checked,  within  twenty-five  days  march  of  Zimm6,  by 
the  defection  of  an  interpreter  and  the  hindrances  thrown  in  his  way  by  the 
resiident  mandarin.  Mr.  ColquhouuV  object  being  to  aiscertain  the  commercial 
aspectj^  of  the  Shan  country  as  well  as  those  of  i>outh- Western  China,  this 
abrupt  8t<ip  on  the  threshold  of  success  is  particularly  lu  be  regretted  ;  he  gives, 
however,  in  chapters  xvii.  and  xviii.  vt  this  volume  a  very  full  and  able 
discussion  of  the  question  of  trwie  extenhian  with  the  north  of  Siam,  the  Shan 
States,  and  Yimnao,  in  the  course  of  which  ho  demonstrates  that  the  best 
practical  connection  should  be  by  railroad.  Any  railway  jassiug  from  west  to 
east,  north  uf  lat,  17*  50',  is  considered  to  be  impracticable ;  but  a  railway  from 
liangoon  to  Kian-hung  is  proposed,  and  deemed  to  be  net  only  practicable  but 
likely  to  meet  with  fewer  and  leas  difficult  olwtaclrs  than  have  hitherto  been 
expected.  This  is  sketched  at  pp.  233  aod  'J34  of  vol,  ii.,  and  is  well  shown 
on  a  large  special  map  (scale  33  miles  to  the  inch).  The  remainder  of  tho 
volume  (which  includes  a  very  interesting  account  of  the  Lolo  hill  |XJopIe)  ia 
taken  up  by  the  journey  northwards  to  Tali  and  !he  return  home  by  lUngnon. 

A  translation  of  a  manuscript  account  of  the  Kwei-Chau  Miao-TzG,  written 
after  the  subjugation  of  the  Miao-TzQ  about  1730,  is  given  as  an  Aippendiix  by 
Mr.  George  W.  Clarke  of  the  China  lulaud  Mission;  and  a  copious  Index 
cttmpletes  tho  work. 

'ITie  maj)s  are  (I)  General  South  Asia,  showing  tlie  author's  route  and  the 
pT».i[)osed  rail ;  (2)  Southern  China  and  Indo-China,  from  the  December  number 
of  our  18b2  '  I^rocoedings  * ;  and  (3)  the  Iar;:;e  proposed  extension  of  the  British 
Burma  Kailway  system  above  noticed;  besides  various  smnll  chortographic 
diagrams  in  the  text. 

Cotteau,  Edmoiid. — Dc  Paris  au  Japon,  a  Iraveni  la  Sibdrie.  Paris  (Hachette): 
1883,  l2mo.,  pp.  450  [no  index],  maps,  illoslrations.  (^Wilh'ams  <t  Xoryatt: 
price  3$.  Gil.) 

The  author's  voyage  was  made  between  May  and  August  1881,  in  execution 
of  a  mission  with  which  he  was  charge*!  by  the  French  Minister  of  Pubhc  Instnic- 
tioD.  His  route  was  by  Kazan,  Tobolsk,  Samarova,  along  the  Ob  to  Tomsk,  Kras- 
noyarsk and  Irkutsk,  and  is  shown  on  a  general  map:  two  smaller  mans 
represent  (p.  336)  the  curiously  recurved  plexus  of  the  Amur  between  Albazin 
and  Blagovestchensk,  and  (p.  303)  the  confluence  of  the  Sungatcha  and 
Ussuri.  The  numerous  illustrations  represent  natural  scenery,  towns,  tribal 
types,  &c. 

De    la  Croix,    J    Eirillgtoil- — Les    Mines  d'Etain    de    Perak    (Presqu'ile    de 
^         Malacca).     Paris  (Dunod) :  1882,  Svo.,  pp.  78,  maps,  phites. 
^m  This  treatise,  just  received  in  tlie  Library  from  tlie  author  (a  separate  publi- 

^ft  cation  extracted  from  vol.  ix.  of  the  third  series  of  the  '  Archives  des  Misbions 


Scientifiqiies  et  LUt^Jraires *),  may  be  referred  to  in  connection  with  Miss  Birti* 
work  above  noticed,  in  spite  of  its  purely  mineralogtcal  and  cooimercial  aim. 
M.  De  la  Croix,  a  civil  engineer,  intrustod  (in  company  with  M.  Brau  de  Saint- 
Pol  Lias)  with  a  special  w;icntilic  mission  in  Malaya  by  the  Freoch  Minister 
of  Public  Instruction,  here  gives  an  account  of  the  result  of  his  personiil 
examination  of  the  stanniferous  workingn  in  Ferak,  describing  briefly  the  geo- 
graphy, t-upograpby,  and  geology  of  the  region,  in  addition  to  details  of  mining 
o))eration8.  Hi«  routes  are  t^hown  on  two  maps,  one  of  the  Stale  of  Perak  with 
sectional  proflies  (scale  1 : 1,500,000),  the  other  of  the  Larut  proviuce  (scale 
1 :  200,000).  A  geological  map  of  sections  \a  also  given,  with  various 
technical  plates  and  views  of  Taipeng,  Gounong  Fondok,  and  the  mines  of 
Koug-I>oon, 

Haeckel,  Ernst. — A  Visit  to  Ceylon.  Translated  by  Clara  Boll.  London  (K<?gan 
Paul,  Trench  &  Co,) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  viil.  &  337  [uo  index].     Price  7s.  Gd. 

A  translation  of  the  <>rigiTial  Crermau  work  brielly  noticed  in  our  '  Proceedings* 
for  last  .January,  p.  49.  The  details  of  the  autliur's  stay  at  Uelligam  and  his 
observatioua on  the  hill  country  (Newera  Kllia  is  jtccidcntally  stated  to  be  ''only 
seventy,"  instead  of  seven,  degroea  north  of  the  Equator)  are  of  especial  interest: 
and  the  whole  book  caimot  tail  to  impress  iLseli  un  home  readers  as  a  vivid 
description  of  a  tropical  country  and  its  products  bj'  a  ihoruughly  scienti6c 
observer  who  (after  nearly  thirty  years  of  study)  has  at  last  made  the  personal 
ac^uaiutaiice  of  his  aubjtct  under  natural  conditions. 

Javorsky,  [Dr.]  I.  L.  — Puteslicstviye  Russkago  Pc^olstva  po  Afghanistana  i 
Bukharskomu  Khanstvu  v  1878-1879  [Travels  of  the  Kussian  Mission  in  Afghan- 
istan and  the  Khanate  of  Bokhara  in  1878-1879J.  St.  Petersburg  (Khaua) : 
1882  &  1883,  2  vols.,  8vo.,  pp.  383  &  387  [no  index],  maps  and  illustrations. 
Price  5  rotiblea  (1G«.  8d.). 

Mr.  E.  Delnmr  Morgan  has  supplied  an  analysis  of  this  work,  which,  though 
late  in  a[ipearaTico,  Ls  an  important  cuntributiou  to  Central  Asian  literature, 
CHficcially  in  it>s  political  aspects.  The  account  which  it  contains  of  the  Russian 
Misfiion  to  Kabul  under  General  Stol<?tiif  is  from  the  diary  of  Dr.  Javorsky,  who 
accompanied  the  ex[K?dition  as  jhysician,  joining  it  at  ^Samarkand  (approached 
by  *iO  miles  of  well-metalled  road)'.  He  inci<lentally  refers  to  the  great  under- 
taking, oommenced  at  the  time  of  his  jourtiey,  of  diverting  part  of  the  Syr 
Diiria  by  canal,  to  irrigate  the  steppe — a  work  winch,  if  successful,  would  restore 
life  and  population  to  some  10,000  square  versts  of  desert,  and  for  which  he 
considers  water  could  be  spared  witliout  lessening  the  navigability  of  the  river- 

Starting  on  June  2/14,  1878,  the  mission  left  Samarkand  in  the  direction  of 
Djam  (2050  feet  above  sea-level),  now  a  mere  Immlet,  and  soon  passed  the 
Russian  boundary  pillar.  In  couMcquence  of  a  pressing  invitation  from  the  son 
of  the  Au^ecr  of  Bokhara,  a  circuit  of  26  miles  in  a  soulh-east  dire<'tion  was  here 
made  to  Chirakchi,  reached  by  a  long  day's  march  over  undulating  desert,  with 
the  range  of  the  Samarkand  hills  on  the  Ifft,  which  here  turn  abruptly  south, 
and  only  throw  out  some  insignificant  offshoots  tu  the  wwt.  Chirakchi  was 
entere<l  after  crossing  the  Kashka  Daria.aud  the  reception  here  and  through  all 
the  Bokharan  territory  was  very  friendly,  the  chiefs  being  compared,  both  from 
their  dress  and  manners,  with  the  Russian  nobles  of  the  i>eriod  before  Peter  the 
Great. 

Resuming  the  journey,  the  mission  struck  south-east  from  Knshi  to  Guzar, 
entering  the  mountaius  by  the  Ak-dagan  (white  j)as«)  defile,  ami  following  a 
stream  of  the  same  name  to  its  source  at  the  village  of  Cbashma-i-Hafizaa 
(3540  feet),  on  the  next  day  (11/23  June)  coming  to  the  celebrated  Iron  Gates, 
through  which,  in  modem  days,  Maief,  Petrof,  and  Schwartz  were  the  first  U> 
pass  (1875),  This  is  an  oval-shaped  opening  in  the  mountains,  two  miles  long, 
nearly  closed  at  each  end  by  precipitous  walls  of  rock,  through  which  the 
Shirabad  Daria  has  forced  its  way.  Its  local  name,  Nan-dagan  (bread  pass),  is 
given  to  it  from  its  resemblance  in  shape  to  one  of  the  luaves  of  the  country. 
The  citadel  of  Shir-al>ad  {Lion's  Home),  at  the  further  end  of  the  pass,  is  of  great 
natural  strength,  on  a  precipitous  rock  110  feet  high,  only  approachable  from 


war  BOOKS. 


308 


Hxt  south,  where  entrance  is  barred  by  two  thick  walls.  From  this  place 
(which  has  been  dubiously  identified  oh  Mokanna'a  fortress  of  Sam),  two  roads 
lw»d  to  the  Amu-Ditria,  one  by  Puttii-Jiuzar,  the  other  by  Uhushka-Guzar, 
20  or  30  miles  lower  down  the  streatn.  The  nii.Hhion  chose  the  latter,  finding 
the  river  upwards  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  stmlded  with  numerous  low-lying 
isUndd  covered  with  ree<ia.  Its  waters  depo.sited  a  thick  seiiiment,  and  as  tlu3 
banks  were  low  the  adjacent  country  was  {lartially  ftoodctl,  quantities  of  decayed 
▼e^(«tation  being  thrown  up,  producing  unhealthy  miasma,  and  attracting 
swanns  of  gnats  as  troublesome  as  mosquitoes.  The  river-crossin;^  is  Ktill 
effected  in  clumsy  and  primitive  boata  called  kaynks,  dragged  through  the  water 
by  untrained  horses,  as  descrilxxl  by  Burnes  forty-five  years  ago.  A  similar 
kind  of  ferry  was  observed  by  Mr.  Morgan  in  IS^O  to  be  employed  in  crosaing 
the  deep,  wide,  and  rapid  rivtr  ili  neur  Kulja.  When  landed  on  the  Afghan 
side  of  the  Amu-Daria,  the  mission  part}',  attended  by  an  escort  of  Kazareli 
bor^men,  entered  a  country  reniarkal>le  for  its  silk  production,  and  iu  which 

Kches  and  apricots  were  found  to  ripen  as  early  as  the  18/30  June.  Near 
rshiak  (last  visited  by  Moorcroft  in  1824),  bait-way  between  the  river  and 
Miu»r-i-8herrif,  a  populous  and  well-cultivated  place,  extensive  ruins  were 
aeon,  concerning  which  no  local  tradition  survives.  Mazar-i-Sherrif  ilself,  the 
capital  of  Afghan  Turkiatan,  was  entered  on  23rd  June — 5th  July,  and,  though 
reorived  in  triumph,  the  Russian  i>arty  haii  to  remain  seclude*!  here  fir  a'fort- 
night}  pending  the  return  of  their  messenger  from  Kabul,  several  of  the  meml)er8 
being  in  the  meantime  prostratetl  by  fever.  Dr.  Javorsky  here  breaks  off  his 
narrative  to  describe  the  geography  of  the  Oxns  valley,  and  mention  the  earlier 
irarellera  in  Afghan  Turkiatan. 

The  resumed  roail  t")  Kabul  led  due  east  through  Naib-abad  and  Tash- 
Kurgi\n  near  the  ruins  of  Khulm,  depopulated  in  1822  by  Murad  Beg,  and  of 
which  only  a  few  inhabitants  and  some  houses  remain.  It  is  practically  the 
same  as  that  roughly  described  in  Ferricr's  '.Caravan  Journeys'  and  Burnea's. 
•Travels  into  Bokhara,*  though  the  former  turned  off  to  Herat  from  Ivhnrrem 
(Korram).  According  to  Dr.  Javoraky,  Burnea^s  descrif)tion8  are  very  inaccu- 
rate ;  thus  ho  speaks  of  the  gorge  of  Heibak  as  walled  in  by  cliffs  from  2000  to  3000 
feet  high,  excluding  the  sunlight.  These  rocks,  accordiug  to  Javoraky,  are  not 
over  500  feet  high,  and  iho  n«»rih  and  south  position  of  the  defile  renders  it  im^ 
poflcible  that  the  sun  should  be  excluded.  The  narao  Dereh-i-Ziudan  or 
**  Dungeon  Valley ''  borne  by  this  defile,  is  not  deriveil  a.s  Burnes  suppoaeil,  from 
its  own  physical  coodiiions,  but  from  some  caves  al>out  three  miles  to  the  south 
near  tho  village  of  Akam,  formerly  used  as  prisons. 

Another  remarkable  dedle  is  that  of  IJui,  through  which  the  mission  jxisaed, 
S  narrow  ohasm  affording  barely  room  for  the  passage  of  a  hingle  horseman,  and 
moat  impressive  from  its  tlarkne^s  and  silence.  Two  other  passes,  tho  Kizil 
Kotul  and  Kara  Kotul  (10,500  feet  according  to  Burnes)  were  crossed  on  tho 
1(V26  July,  the  descent  from  the  latter  into  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Madur 
valley  being  particularly  long  and  diflicult. 

At  Kamard  the  party  was  met  by  the  governor  of  Bamian,  who  accompanied 
and  entertained  the  Russians  while  they  travelletJ  in  his  territory.  The  ascent 
of  Dendan-Shikan  (*'  The  Tooth-breaker")  was  then  corameuceti,  the  jiath  being 
a  mere  alipi)ery  trough  in  alaty  rocks,  zigxazging  up  the  side  of  the  clifl'  with  a 
sheer  precipice  on  one  side.  The  summit  (according  to  Biirslem,  9000  leet  high) 
commands  a  boundle^  view  over  mountains  rugged  and  bare  of  verdure,  and  is 
half-way  bewecn  Tash-Kurgan  and  Kabul.  Four  miles  of  plateau  Iiave  to  be 
traversed  before  the  descent  on  the  fioiithem  side  is  commenced  by  the  Saigan 
valley  ;  and  most  English  mapa  are  wrong  in  renderiug  the  ascent  and  descent 
forming  the  whole  pasa  as  two  separate  passes.  The  local  name  of  the  pass  is 
Dc6ht-i*G-asbak,  according  to  the  author.  Tho  route  now  led  through  Ri'j;i-nau 
(the  Kine  Sands)  and  Ak-rohat  (White  Caravansenu)  where  a  roa*.!  branches  otf 
to  Kerat ;  and  the  author  then  devotes  a  chapter  to  the  celebrated  Bamian  Pass, 
with  its  idols,  caves,  and  ruins,  agreeing  in  the  main  with  the  description  by 
Burnes, 

After  the  arrival  at  Kabul,  the  narrative  becomes  so  exclusively  of  politicil 
interest,  that  practically  the  second  volume  of  the  work  requires  no  notice  hoe. 


301 


NEW  1MX)KS. 


Tlic  iUiist rations  consist  of  portraits  of  Slicre  Ali  aod  Sayid  MozAfar  Khan, 
(Ameer  of  Bokhara),  and  representations  of  the  Bamian  stone  idols.  The  map, 
hy  the  toi»ographio  officer,  N.  A.  Bendersky,  who  accompanieti  the  mission, 
shows  the  region  of  the  head-waters  of  the  Anio-Daria  (scale  1 :  4,000,000), 
with  the  route  of  the  mJs«ion  separately  on  a  much  larger  scale. 

Knropatkin  [Col.It  A.  N. — Kai*hj;arla:  [Eastora  or  Chinese  Tnrkistan.]  His- 
toricnl  and  Geographical  Sketch  of  the  Ckiuntry.  ita  Military  Strength,  Industries, 
and  Trade.  Translated  from  the  Russian  hy  Walter  E,  Gowan,  Major,  H.Bi.8 
Indian  Army.  Calcutta  (Thackor,  Spink,  &  Co.),  I.ondon  (W.  Thacker  &  Co.): 
1882,  8vo,,  pp.  255. 

Although  without  the  eight  appendices  (over  200  pages  long)  of  the  original 

work»  contiuninp  itincrsiriea,  tables  of  distance,*,  trade  returns,   astronomical 

positions,  &c.,  this  translation  of  Colonel  Kurojuit kin's  account  of  his  mission 

to  Yakooh  Beg  (from  May  1876  to  April  1877),  and  of  the  geography,  history, 

and  political  and  domestic  economy  of  Kashgaria,  will  be  found  of  much  value 

to  those  unacciuaintfd  with  the  Hiiasian  language.    The  question  of  capahilities 

of  trade  and    the  incidents  of  the  rebellion  against  China   resulting   in    the 

occumtiou  of  the  country  by  the  Chinese,  are  discoased  with  considerable 

detail. 

Palestine  Survey.— 'i'he  Survey  of  Western  Palestine   Memoirs  of  the  Topography, 

Orography,  Uydrography,  and  Archnjology,     By  Capt.  C.  IL  Conder,  r,E-,  and 

Cftpt.  H.  H.  Kitchener,  r,e.      Volume  III.     Sheets  xvii.-xxvl.    Judsea.     Kdited 

with  additions  hy  E.  U,  Talmer,  m.a.»  and  Walter  Besant,  m.a,,  for  the  Committee 

of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fuud,  1  Adam  Street,  Adelphi,  London,  W.C.,  1883, 

,     4to.,  i*p.  vii.  and  450,  illuRl rations. 

This  volume,  entirely  edited  by  Mr.  Besant,  owing  to  the  illness  and  subse- 
quent tragical  death  of  Ids  txdleague,  the  late  Professor  Palmer,  completes  the 
scries  of  the  **  Memoirs  "  to  accompany  the  map  of  the  Survey  of  Western  Pales- 
tine, with  the  exception  of  the  Index,  which  is  beinjj  prejwrod.  The  illustrations 
have,  with  a  few  exceptions,  been  taken  from  drawings  on  the  spit,  and  Captain 
Conder  has  revisited  many  of  the  sites  with  the  proofs  of  this  concluding  jwrtioa 
of  the  work  in  his  hand.  It  may  Iiere  be  noticed  tliat  vol.  i.  (sheets  i.-vi.  of 
the  map),  Galilee,  pp.  420,  was  publislied  in  1881 ;  vol,  ii.  (.sheets  vii.-xvi,), 
Samaria,  pp.  445,  in  lt:iH2  ;  and  that  the  price  of  the  three  volumes  will  lie  9/.  9«., 
should  any  copies  remain  after  tho  whote  sets  of  Memoirs,  &c.,  are  supplied  to 
suhscril«rs. 

In  the  discussiion  of  the  different  sheets  of  the  map,  the  subjects  of  Orography, 
Hydrography,  Toi5<igriiii>hy,  Biblical  and  non-Bibliciil  sites,  litvads,  and  Archic- 
ology  arc  separately  treated  in  order,  with  alphabetical  Bul>-a  r  range  men  t  of 
detail;  and  there  arc  U|>vvnrdK  of  W  illustrations  (including  smaller  majjs  and 
plans),  many  uf  whioh  are  of  seographical  interest,  so  that  independently  of  the 
ppecial  object  of  the  Survey,  the-se  memoirs  form  by  themselves  a  very  important 
contribution  to  the  geograpliy  of  Western  Palestine. 

B.OB81  David. — The  liand  of  Five  Rivera  and  Sindh,  Sketches  Historical  and 
Descriptive.  Londt>u  (Chapman  &  Hall,  Liitiitcd):  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  322,  map. 
Price  12*. 

The  author's  aim  is  to  furnish  travellers  with  a  short  historical  and  descrip- 
tive account  of  tha  country  and  places  of  interest  between  Karachi,  Multan, 
Lahore,  Peshaw^ar,  and  Delhi,  his  remarks  being  mainly  confined  to  the  mure 
l«romiiient  cities  and  lowan  adjoining  the  railway  system,  and  being  in  nearly 
all  cases  l>ascd  nix)n  per8t>ual  observation.  Objects  of  antiquarian  interest,  and 
the  prirK-ipal  arts  and  manufactures  in  the  different  localities  are  bristly  noticed, 
and  tiome  reference  is  made  to  the  independent  adjoining  States  and  the  North- 
western Provinces,  with  outlines  of  routes  to  Kashmir,  the  various  hill  sani- 
taria, and  marches  in  tbe  interior  of  the  Western  Himalaya,  the  Iwok  as  a  whole 
U'lng  practically  supplementary  to  the  Guide  for  Bombay  by  Eastwick. 

The  map  {.50  miles  to  the  iuch)  contains  little  more  than  the  names  of  the 
stations  on  ihe  railways. 


NEW  BOOKS. 


305 


Saillt>FoI  Lias.  Brau  de. — P^mk  et  lea  Orangs-5ak6js.  Voy«^e  dans  i'inturieur 
do  la  Priy»*iu11o  Malaise.  Paris  (Plon) :  1883,  12mo.,  pp.  302  [no  index],  map, 
plates.    (Dulau :  price  4«.) 

A  reference  to  the  trealise  of  M-  De  la  Croix,  above  noticed,  will  suflicifiitly 
explain  this  little  work,  which  is  of  a  more  popular  nature.  A  dozen  illustra- 
tions  of  topfmtkphical,  botanical,  and  ethQological  .subjects  are  given,  and  the 
map  coren  the  same  area  as  the  general  one  in  M.  De  la  Croix's  btxtk  (scale 
1  : 1,210,000),  with  insets  of  the  author's  excursion  in  Perak  (scale 
1 :  484,000),  of  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  and  of  the  general  route  to  the  Malay 
Peninsula  from  £urope. 

AFRICA, 
fiohlfis,  Oerliard. — Meine  Misj^lon  nach  Abessinien.     Auf  Befehl  Sr,  Maj.  des 
Deutschen    Kaisers   im   Winter   lbbO-81    untemomraea   von   Grerhard    Kohlfs. 
Leipzig  (Brockhaus) :   1883,  Svo.,  pp.  xx.  and  348,  map,  plates.    ( WHliavM  Jb 
Nvryate:  price  12«,) 

The  author,  accompanied  by  Dr.  Stecker,  a  woU-known  German  natnralist, 
undertook  a  journey  to  Abyssinia  in  the  winter  of  1880,  by  order  of  the  Germiin 
Kmperor.  Landing  at  Mossowa,  he  struck  across  to  Kasen,  in  the  highland*  of 
Uamasen,  and  thence  travelled  south  to  Adown,  Fenaroa^  and  Sokota,  fr<>ru 
which  he  went  s<^^)Uth-wist  to  Debra-Tabor,  finally  reaching  the  Tana  Lake 
ab»>ut  the  middle  of  February  1881.  His  companion  travelleti  round  the  Lake 
and  then  rejoine«i  him,  the  road  home  being  by  Gondar,  and  thence  north-<'ast 
to  Aksum  and  Adowa.  As  the  work  will  probably  be  translatetl  into  English, 
it  is  unnecessary  hereto  do  more  than  indicate  the  route  of  the  author,  who  has 
made  the  most  of  his  opportunities  in  describing  and  figuring  the  peculiar 
physical  formations  of  the  ooimtry  traversed  by  him,  the  numerous  architectural 
remains,  objects  of  ethnological  and  artistic  intereet,  special  vegetation,  &c. 

The  map  (scale  1 : 1,300,000)  is  by  Hassensteio,  and  has  already  appeared 
in  Petemiaun's  '  Mittheilungen*  for  last  year. 

AMERICA. 

Hatton,  Joseph,  and   Harvey  [the  Bev.I  M.— Newfoundland :  the  oldest 

British  Colouy.    Its  Histor3',  it*  pre^sent  Condition,  and  its  Prospects  in  the  future. 

London  (Chapman  and  Hall,  Limited) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xxiv,  &  489,  illustrations. 

rrice  18«. 

Mr.  Harvey  who  has  resided  in  the  island  for  a  tjuarter  of  a  century  and 
made  an  especial  study  of  its  natural  history  during  his  numerous  explorations, 
has  supplied  the  local  j>articulars — Mr.  Hatton  being  responsible  for  the  literary 
portion.  After  an  historical  account,  Part  2  is  devoied  to  the  physical  goo- 
^aphy  and  topography  in  which  the  situation,  mountains  nnd  livers,  bays  and 
harbours,  interior,  geology,  climate,  aborigines,  fauna  and  flora,  are  separately 
discussed.  S{)ecial  parts  are  also  given  to  the  iisheiies,  the  agricultural  and 
mineral  resources,  and  the  political  and  domestic  institutions,  Ac,  of  the  colony. 
The  Reports  of  the  irnL-ological  Survey  aud  other  available  authorities  are  utiHsed ; 
bat  the  volume  is  proj)erly  stated  to  be  unly  a  pioneer. 
[aCOUn,  John. — Manitoba  and  the  Great  North-West:  The  Field  for  Investment. 

The  Home  of  the  Emigrant.     London  (Thos.  C.  Jack)  :  1833,  8vo,,  pp.  xxii.  & 

CS7  [no  index],  maps,  illustrations.     Price  12s. 

Tlie  author  ("  Dominion  Government  Explorer  of  the  North- West ")  accom- 
panied Mr.  Sjiodford  Fleming  as  liotanist  on  his  journey  across  the  continent 
in  1872,  and  in  1875  was  appointed  in  the  same  cajincity  under  Prof.  8elwyn 
on  his  explorations  of  the  Peace  River  and  Rocky  Mountains.  Since  that  time, 
he  has  been  occupi&l  in  collectin«:  material  for  a  rejxjrt  on  the  North-West 
Territories,  and  he  has  now  published  the  results  of  his  own  i/bservalious, 
supplemented  by  trustworthy  statistics  and  information  derived  frntu  various 
autnorities.  He  describes  scparatt-ly  the  general  geography  uf  the  Dominion  ; 
the  physical  geography  of  Blanitoba  ;  the  charact^^r  of  the  coimtrv  l>etween 
iat.  40"  and  50°,  50"  and  51^  5r  and  52",  and  52°  and  53^  west  of  Manitoba ; 


aoG 


SLVf  BOOKA. 


the  country  drained  by  the  North  Saskatchewan  and  Athabasca;  the  Bmm|I 
River ;  th«  climate  of  the  north-west  (with  practical  remarks)  5  the  natttnl 
products  of  the  soil  (with  special  cliapters  on  whent,  cerealu,  &c.,  grasses,  slock- 
raifiiDg,  &c.) ;  tht*  suppliea  of  water,  fuel,  and  timber  ;  the  fauna,  minerals,  and 
IndianH;  with  much  historical  and  statistical  matter,  and  details  likely  to  be  of 
utve  to  seltlera. 

The  maps,  &c.,  are  prepared  by  the  Dominion  Government. 

Pereira,  Ricardo  S.— Les  l^tate-Unis  de  Colombie.  Pr<?ci3  d'Histoiro  et  de 
Gtegraphic  Pliysiqne,  PoUtique,  et  Commerciale,  contenant  un  grand  nombre  de 
Renseigiiements  utiles  aux  Voyageiirs  et  aux  Negociants,  de  courtes  Notices 
Biographiquea  des  Personmif^es  c6lebrcs  de  la  Colombie,  &c.  Paris  (Marpon  & 
Flam  mar  ion ) :  1863,  870.^  pp.  viii.  and  S 11  [no  index],  maps.  (Z>i(7um:  prioo 
7s.  6^.) 

After  an  introductory  historical  sketch,  the  author  (Secretary  of  Legation, 
and  official  dekgaie  to  the  third  International  (icographical  Congress)  describes 
the  physical  geography  of  the  United  States  of  Colombia  as  a  whole,  with  a 
separate  account  of  each  of  the  SStiites,  viz.  Auticx^uia,  Bolivar,  BoyacA,  Cauca, 
Cundinaitmrca,  Magdalena,  Panama,  Satitimder,  and  Tolima.  In  each  case,  the 
situation,  limits,  area,  general  asjjectij,  population,  history,  social  and  [jolitical 
condition,  agricultural,  industrial,  and  commercial  pursuits,  roads  and  means  of 
transport,  natural  attractions,  ami  administrative  divisions  are  discussed ;  with 
a  dictionary  of  the  separate  commnnes,  a  table  of  ]xipulation,  and  a  separato 
map.     A  general  coloured  map  of  the  whole  States  is  also  given. 

A  special  part  is  devoted  to  statistics,  and  the  work  cuncludes  with  biogm- 
phical  and  bibliographical  notices,  the  former  arranged  chronolcgically  and  the 
latter  (roughly)  by  subjects. 

Raimondij  Antonio, — El  Peril.  Tomo  III.  Historia  de  la  Geografla  del  PenL 
Libro  IL  Lima  (J.  Enrique  del  Campo) :  1880  [on  cover,  1879  on  title],  sm.  fo., 
pp.  Gil,  maps  and  plates. 

Although  apparetitly  too  remote  in  date  to  bo  properly  considered  a  new 
lxH»k,  this  volume  of  our  honorary  corresponding  member  Don  Antonio 
Kaimondi's  great  work  has  (presumably  in  consequence  of  the  cessation  of  all 
scientific  prrgtess  in  Pern  during  the  Chilian  cccujsation  of  the  capital)  only 
recently  arrived  in  England ;  and  it  is  from  a  private  copy  received  by  Mr.  C.  R. 
Markham,  that  tho  present  notice  is  enabled  to  be  given.  It  is  reported  that  the 
4th  volume,  which  was  actually  being  printed  and  practicaDy  ready  for  publica- 
tion, has  been  destroyed  (with  other  valuable  and  purely  historical  material)  by 
the  invaders  ;  so  (hat  the  present  would  seem  a  fitting  opportunity  for  reference 
to  the  hitherto  publiphed  parts  of  the  work,  of  which  the  preliminary  volumes 
appeared  before  the  present  scheme  of  our  '  Proceedings  '  admitted  bibliographi- 
cal matter. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  descriptive  account  of  the  Geography,  Geology, 
and  Natural  llistory  of  Peru,  the  author  has  systematically  explored  every  part 
of  his  adopted  eoimtry,  to  the  service  of  which  he  has  devoted  some  30  years ; 
and  a  natiimal  character  was  given  to  his  undertaking  by  a  Resolution  of  Con- 
gress in  January  1869,  authorLsing  its  publication,  at  the  expense  of  the 
Kepublic. 

Volume  I.,  "  Parte  Preliminar,"  pp.  444,  appeare^l  in  1874,  and  consisted  of 
two  parts ;  of  these  Libro  1.  contains  an  account  of  the  author's  studies  in  Peru, 
with  a  short  relation  of  the  works  of  his  ]iredeco8sors,  and  a  discussion  of  the 
plan  intended  to  be  followed  and  of  the  best  means  for  its  future  useful  con- 
tinuation. A  special  chapter  in  this  section  is  devoted  to  details  of  the  fittest 
methods  of  travel  in  Peru  for  scientific  purposes.  This  part  shows  that  material 
had  been  collected  sufficient  for  six  disiinct  divisions  of  the  whole  work,  viz. 
Geography,  Geology,  Mineralogy,  Botany,  Zoology,  and  Ethnology,  in  addition 
to  the  introductory  matter,  and  to  be  illustrated  by  various  maps  and  plates.  Of 
these,  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  ])ortions  of  the  Geography  to  be  now  noticed  are 
all  that  will  ever  see  the  light. 

Libro  11,  contains  the  account  of  the  author's  travels  in  various  parte  of  the 


I 
I 


I 


NEW  BOOKS. 


aoT 


territory  of  the  Republic  in  the  collection  of  the  material  and  data  for  his  work, 
from  1851  to  1869 ;  it  occupies  nearly  300  pages,  full  of  int<?r<*stiDg  j>oints  in 
many  branches  of  phyncal  science,  and  is  itself  practioiUy  a  sketch  of  Peru  and 
it*  product*.  In  the  incomplete  condition  of  the  publication,  such  of  these 
journeys  of  the  author  as  covered  ground  not  referred  to  by  other  travellers  aviIL 
doubtless  remain  of  value. 

Volume  II.,  'Hihtoritt  de  la  Geografia  del  Peru,'  pp.  475,  with  maps  and 
iplatGCy  appeared  in  1876.  It  contaiuni  Libro  I.  of  this  subject,  being  a  ohronolo* 
Lgtcal  relation  of  the  travels,  liiscuverie;*,  foundation  of  cities  and  towns,  and 
[notable  changes  in  territorial  divisions,  which  have  h.ipj^eued  in  Peru  from  the 
Ldate  of  the  Spanish  conquest  tu  the  year  1800,  and  commencing  with  a  notice 
lof  the  expedition  of  Vasco  Nui\ezde  Balboa  in  1511,  recorded  by  Uerrera,  which 
[is  the  first  mention  of  the  country.  Although  professedly  hiistorical,  this  put 
contains  in  its  account  of  the  various  travels  much  descriptive  matter  of 
goojiraphical  interest. 

'Jlx-  iilates  represent  remains  of  various  Ynca  fortreeses,  &c.  (including 

>  an,  of  which  a  photograph  was  presented  to  the  library  by  Mr. 

\  .  and  a  view  of  the  celebrated  Pongo  de  Manseriche  on  the  Mamnon. 

I  like  UiApo  ore  a  reproduction  of  Manuel  Sobreviela's  delineation  in  1791  of  the 

pHtiallaga  and  Ucayali,  with  the  included  Pampa  del  Sacramento ;  aud  a  larger 

one  of  ibe  whole  republic,  illustrating  the  historical  ]>art  of  the  work. 

Volume  III.  conaiflts  of  Libro  II.  of  the  subject  of  the  preceding  volume,  beius 

iB  Bimilar  treatmL-nt  from   li9D  to  the  date  of  publication.     It  is  arranged 

Dologically  (with  a  good  Index),  and  inclndes  accounts  of  the  numerous 

^e  in  i'eru  during  the  present  century,  with  particulars  of  their  geogra- 

reeults.     Separate  chapter*  are  devoted  to  the  question  of  boundaries 

etwecn  Peru,  Bolivia,  and  Brazil ;  and  the  volume  concludes  with  a  discussion 

of  the  claims  of  the  Ucayali  and  Marafion  to  be  considered  the  parent  stream  of 

the  Amazoiias,  in  which  prefereuce  is  given  to  the  Marailon  from  the  far  greater 

body  of  its  water,  in  spite  of  the  longer  coarse  of  the  Ucayali. 

The  maps  are  a  copy  of  an  original  one  of  the  seat  of  the  Ucayali  missions, 
in  the  possession  of  iJou  Manuel  Amez,  Governor  of  Andamarca,  in  1833  ;  a 
_  chart  of  the  course  of  the  Huillcamayo  and  part  of  the  Ucayali  by  Captain 
~  rrasco  of  the  Peruvian  navy  in  184tj,  with  inset  views  of  the  mouths  of  the 
.  Tttinbo  and  Pachitea;  Werthcmim's  map  of  the  Pereue  and  Tambo,  187G;  and 
a  itpecial  map,  showing  the  boundaries  of  Peru  according  to  ancient  and  modern 
authorities,  dated  1877. 

ARCTIC. 
Gilder,  W.  H.— Ice-Pack  and  Tundra.  An  Account  of  the  Search  for  the  Jtannefte, 
and  a  Sletlge  Journey  through  Siberia.    London  (Siimpson  Low  &  Co.) :  1BS3, 
pp.  344  [no  index],  map,  illustrations.     Price  185. 

Mr.  Gilder,  who  acted  as  correspondent  of  the  New  York  JTerald  with  the 
dodgers  Search  Exj»edition,  here  gives  in  narrative  form  the  history  of  the 
cruise  of  that  ship  lor  the  relief  of  the  ill-fated  Jeannette^  starting  Irom  San 

iFrancisco  in  June  1881,  until  her  own  loss  by  fire  in  St.  Lawrence  li^y,  Bering 

|Strait8,  on  30th  November  of  the  same  year,  including  the  excellent  work  done 
round  Wrangel  Island,  the  episodes  of  camp-life  on  Eotoetlan  Island,  some 
25  miles  west  of  Cape  Serdze  Kamea  on  the  Siberian  coast,  and  the  account  of 
the  loss  of  Mr.  Putnam  during  the  wiolering.     This  is  followed  by  a  description 

^of  the  author's  own  adventurous  sledge-journey  from  Eeteetlan  westward  to  tho 
Douth  of  the  Kolyma  on  his  way  to  the  nearest  teleeraph  station  in  Eastern 
liberia.     Here,  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  he  tir»t  hejird  of  the  loss  of  the  Jeannette; 

fmad  he  made  his  way  up  tho  Kolyma  to  Sradne  Kolymsk,  and  so  directly  west 
to  Werchojansk  on  the  Lena.  Arrived  there,  he  had  more  authentic  informa- 
tion as  to  the  object  of  his  search,  and  at  once  started  down  the  Lena  to  its 
delts,  reaching  the  station  at  Yoaynska  on  April  10,  1882.  Returning  to 
Werchojansk  after  meeting  with  Nindermann  and  Noros,  survivors  of  De  Long's 
party,  and  alter  reading  Mr.  Melville's  despatches  with  that  unfortunate  officer's 
diary,  he  hurried  to  Yakutsk,  which  he  reached  on  May  31,  arriving  in  Euro[)e 
by  the  nsual  route  r\&  Irkutsk  and  Tomsk.    The  story  of  the  Jeunnetlc  is 


308  ^^^  NEW  MAPS. 

completeii  by  quotations  from  De  Long's  diary,  Melville's  report  (noticed  in  the 
last  nomber  of  our  '  Proceedinga,'  p.  241),  and  the  accouut  by  Nindermaon  and 
Norofl. 

The  author's  own  journey  is  sliown  on  a  general  map;  there  arc  also  mapti 
fihow'ing  the  track  of  the  Bodgers  north  of  Wrangel  Island  io  the  summer  of 
1881,  with  sonndinK^  and  a  larger  map  of  W'ranf^el  kland  itself.  Some  50 
ilhistrations  (from  Eskimo  drawings,  sketches  by  the  unthor  and  olhera»  and 
photograplis)  are  given,  reprosentiDg  various  localities  of  iutei*est,  natives,  Sx, 

GENERAL. 
Letronue,  A.-J.  —  a.Cttvrea  Choisies  de  A.- J.  Letronne,  Meinltre  de  Tlnstitut. 
Assemblies,  raises  en  Ordre,  et  augmente'es  d'un  Index  par  E.  Fagan.  Deuxiime 
86rie :  Geographic  et  CoHmographie.  Paris  (Ernest  Leroux) :  18t>3,  2  voU^  8vo., 
pp.  viii.  and  534,  and  066,  mapa,  plates.  (  Williams  tt  Norg<iie :  price  1/.  1».) 
A  collection  of  the  essays  of  the  distinguished  French  critic  in  nrcbajidegical 
geography,  who  died  in  1848,  originally  undertaken  by  his  daughter,  Mdme. 
Landelle,  whu  dieil  l>efore  its  puWication.  Tbis  second  series,  which  is  entirely 
independent  of  its  predecessor,  ia  devoted  to  questions  of  geography  and 
mathematical  history,  and  consifits  of  the  following  memoirs  and  papers: — 
A  letter  on  a  passage  of  Thncydide*  relative  to  the  situation  of  Caj>e  Malee  in 
LeflboB;  remaiks  on  passages  iu  Eunnpius,  Thucjdides,  Plutarch,  il'c. ;  a  critical 
essay  on  the  topography  of  Syracu.'^e  at  the  beginning  of  the  5th  century  B.c. 
(with  map) ;  memoir  on  a  horary  table  found  iu  the  Egyptian  temple  of  Taphi« 
in  Nubia ;  a  critical  esamination  of  the  prolegomena  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  ; 
elucidation  of  ^lassages  in  Strabo  relative  to  the  position  of  Marseilles  and  CJn- 
stantiaople;  observations  on  the  objwt  of  ancient  zodiacal  representationa ;  a 
discussion  of  the  question  whether  the  ancients  executed  a  mensuration  of  the 
arc  of  the  meridian  after  the  establishment  of  the  Alexandrian  School ;  on  the 
ooamographic  associations  of  the  name  of  Atlas ;  on  the  opinion  of  Hipparchus 
as  to  the  prolongation  of  Africa  south  of  the  Equator;  on  the  popular  and 
scientific  opinion  of  tlie  Greeks  as  to  an  oblique  passage  of  the  sun,  and  of  the 
ancients  generally  on  eclipses  ;  on  the  coamographic  ideas  of  the  Fathers  of  the 
Church  aa  connecteil  with  ihc  doctrines  of  Grecian  }dnlosophers  ;  on  the  situation 
of  the  terrestrial  Paradise ;  on  the  Grecian  origin  of  the  so-called  Egyptian  zodiacal 
signs,  and  the  origin  of  the  Grecian  zodiac  and  various  points  of  Chaldean 
urauography  and  chronology ;  on  the  writings  and  geometrical  and  astronomical 
works  of  Eudoxus  of  Cuidus;  a  critical  analysis  oi  the  zodiacal  representations 
at  Dendera  and  Esne;  on  the  nature,  history,  and  origin  of  the  ancient 
Egyptian  calendar;  on  the  Chaldean  divisions  of  the  eqimtor  and  day  after 
Achilles  'iatius,  and  of  the  circle  into  3ft0  degrees;  on  some  points  of  the 
ancient  geograjtliy  of  Asia  Minor ;  and  various  accounts  and  reviews  of  modem 
works  by  other  authors  on  kindred  subjects. 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  R.a.s,) 

EUROPE. 
Europe. — Tlelief-Karte  von  Cent  rat- Eurojxa,  rmch  Dr.  Mold's  ojxj-hydrograph. 
eibcubahn-Waudkarte.     L.  Dickert.     llheinbach,  SStumm.     Price  10/.     {Dulau.) 

Hungary. — Wandkarle  der  ungarischen  Kronliinder.  IT.  Berghaus  und  P.  Gonc/y. 
Scale  1:625,000  or  8*5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Goths,  J.  Perthes. 
9  sheets.     Price  7»,  Gd.    (Dulau.) 

Preuaieili— Geologiscbe  Knrte  derProv. Pcale  1  :  100,000  or  1'3  geographical 

mile  to  an  inch.   Sect.  20,  »1.    Berlin,  Schro[ip,     Price  3s.  each  sheet.    {Dulau.) 


^•EW  MAPS. 


309 


Buasia.— Eisenbahn-  u.  SchifTahrts-Karte  der  Kaiserreicho  von  Ruasland  und  der 
Turkei,  bearbeitet  von  E.  G.  Ravenatein.  Scale  1 : 5,000,0(X)  or  66*6  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    Frankfurt  a/M.,  Jaeger.     Price  3«.     {Dulau.) 

Die  Verteilung  der  Kosaken  im  Russischen  Ileiche.   Nach  M.  Choroschchin. 

Petennaon^fl  *  Goographische  Mittbdlungen/  Ergiinzungsheft  No.  71.  Justus 
PtartbeB,  Gotha,  1883.    (Z>«7au.) 

Sweden. — Sveriges  Geologiska  Undersokmng.  Scale  1:50,000  or  1*4  inch  to  a 
geogniphical  mile.  Sheet*:  *Vreta  Klosler,'  * Kriatianstad,'  * Ovedskloster,' 
*  TjallraiV  *  Dakro,' *  Finspang.'    Toi>ografiska  Corpsens.     Stockholm.     (^Dulau.^ 

Wieebaden,— Topographiscbe  Karte  der  Rheinprovinz  u.  der  Prov.  Westphalen. 
W.  Lietienow.  Scale  1 :  80,000  or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  Sect.  35. 
Wiesbaiien,    Berlin,  Schropp.     Price  U.  Gd,    (Dulatt.) 

AFRICA. 

Zambeze  and  Shire  Bivers. — Terrcnoe  adjacentes  aoe  Rios  Zambese  e  Chire, 
dexde  as  suas  ultimas  caclioeiras  ate  ao  mar  Mappa  Coordenado,  p^^r  AfTonso  de 
Hones  Sarmento,  Engenheiro,  ex>chefe  da  Sec9ua  das  Obras  Pablicas  de  Queli- 
noAlie  e  socio  ordioario  da  Sociedade  de  GtiograpLia  de  Lishoa,  de  accordo  com  os 
dados  e  observa<N)?s  pHjr  elle  colhidan  durante  ns  8ua«  viagens  de  1877-1880. 
Scale  1 : 450,000  or  6*2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    2  sheets. 

In  vol.  iv.  of  the  R.G.S. '  Proceedings '  (New  Serie.«s),  page  254,  discrepancies 
existing  between  the  first  portion  of  this  map,  and  the  surveys  of  Jofio  Mon- 
teiro,  Pinto  lia  Fonseca  Vaz,  were  pointed  out;  but  in  the  two  sheets  now 
issued  (which  in  themselvei*  form  a  complete  map  of  the  Li>wer  Zambeze  and 
Sbire  rivers)  the  discrepancies  are,  if  possible,  more  strongly  marked ;  indeed 
in  some  portions,  the  course  of  the  Zambeze  bears  but  a  very  slight  resembliuice 
to  that  assigned  to  it  by  Sr.  Fonseca  Vaz.  At  Senna,  tlie  Island  of  Inhamgoma 
is  entirely  different  in  form,  {)Osition,  and  dimensions ;  and  while  the  present 
map  shows  the  Shiro  as  (lowing  into  the  Zambeze  from  a  direction  a  little  %ve9t 
of  north,  the  map  of  Sr.  Fonseca  Vaz  liiys  it  down  as  coming  from  the  north- 
east ;  indeed  there  is  so  little  agreement  in  the  results  of  these  two  surveys, 
even  in  the  general  cuurse  uf  the  Zitmbeze,  that  it  is  difiicult  to  understand  buw 
two  competent  surve}  ors  should  have  prmluctid  such  discordant  results, 

Crevaoz,  Bocteur  Jules.— Flenves  de  I'AmiSrique  du  Sud  1877-1870.  Par  le 
Docleur  Jules  Crevaux,  Mt^locin  de  la  Marine  Fran^aise.  Missions  du  MinistSro 
de  rinatniction  Publique.     rubli<5  par  la  Soci<5t«  de  GiSographie.     Paris,  1883. 

This  atlas  contains  40  sheets  of  ihe  surveys  of  South  American  rivers  made 
by  the  late  Dr.  Jules  Crevaux,  during  the  years  1877,  78,  and  79.  The  arrange- 
ment of  the  ma[)s,  and  the  scales  on  which  they  are  dmwn,  are  as  fuUtjws  : — 
Index,  1  sheet,  1 : 3,500,000.  Yary,  2  sheets,  1 :  400,000.  Oyapock,  2  sheets, 
1 :  223,000.  Ifounpir  et  Kou,  1  sheet,  1 ;  125,0 W.  Parou,  8  sheets,  1 :  125,0<:m). 
Iga  ou  Putumayo,  12  sheets.  1 :  200,000.  Yapura,  14  sheets,  1 :  225,000.  The 
information  contained  in  this  atlas  is  valuable  ;  there  are  many  corrections 
of  aasignod  positions,  antl  much  that  is  entirely  new.  The  scales  on  which 
the  surveys  have  been  published  are  well  chosen,  and  the  ma^js  themselves  are 
clearly  executed. 

As  an  introduction,  M.  Georges  Revoil  gives  a  short  biographical  sketch  of 

the  late  Dr.  Crevaux,  the  perusal   of  which  in  connection  with  the  maps, 

cannot  fail  to  impress  all  v/ho  are  interested  in   thu  progress  of  geographical 

science,  with  the  great  loss  we  have  siistain&^i  in  the  untimely  death  of  tills 

able  and  energetic  explorer. 

Greeilland.— Die  Westkll^te  Crunlands  zwischen  Godhavn  u.  Pfiiven,    Nach  den 

Aiifuabmeu    von    R.    Hammer    &    K.   J,  V.    Steenstrup    1878-1882.     Scale 

1 : 1,GOO,000  or  21  '7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Petermann'a  •  Geographische 

MittheUungen,'  1883,  Taf.  5.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha,     {Du'iv.) 


310  NEW  MAPS. 

AUSTBALIA. 

New  South  Wales  Government  Haps  :— 
Bathnrst,  City  of ,  County  of  Bathuret,  Land  District  of  Bathnret,  N.S.W^ 

1882.    Scale  8  chains  to  1  inch.    Sunreyor-Generars  Office,  Sydney. 
Braidwood,  Plan  of  the  Town  of ,  Parish  of  Braidwood,  County  of  St.  Vincent, 

Land  District  of  Braidwood,  N.S.W.,  1882.    Scale  8  chains  to  1  inch.    Snrveyor- 

General's  Office,  Sydney. 
Collendina,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Corowa  Land  District,  N.S.W.    Scale 

40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney,  1882. 
Hovell,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Land  District  of  Albury,  N.S.W.    Scale 

40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney,  1882. 
Kentucky,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Land  District  of  Corowa.     Scale 

40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney,  1882. 
Moorwatha,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Land  District  of  Albury,  NAW. 

Scale  40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney,  1882. 
Morebringer,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Land  District  of  Corowa,  N.S.W. 

Scale  40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sidney,  1882. 
New  South  Wales. — ^Map  showing  the  Postal  Stations  and  Roads  in  New  South 

Wales.    Prepared  for  the  use  of  the  Post  Office  Department.    August  1882. 

Scale  1 : 1,370,000  or  18*,  7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  2  sheets.  Lithographed 

and  printed  at  the  Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney. 
Quat  Quatta,  Parish  of ,  County  of  Hume,  Corowa  Land  District,  KAW. 

Scale  40  chains  to  1  inch.    Surveyor-General's  Office,  Sydney,  1882. 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty.  —Charts  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Department,  Admiralty,  in 
January  and  February  1883. 

No.  Inches. 

n-/^       fm      =     0*8\    Borneo,  north-east  coast: — Sandakan  harbour.      Price 
^^^      \m      =     1-9/        U6rf. 
1055        m       =     0*1      Australia,  west  coast: — ^Redout  Island  to  cape  Cuvier. 
(Plans,  Ports  Hcdland  ;  Walcott ;  Robinson.)    Price 
2s.  Qd. 

289        m       =     1*0      Newfoundland,  west  coast : — ^Bay  of  Islands,  with  LitUe 

Port,  York  and  Lark  harbours.    Price  2«. 
1465        m       =  various.  Spain,    east    coast :  —  CuUera    anchorage,    Port   Denia. 

Benicasim  road.    Columbretes  islands.    Price  Is. 
591        ra       =     1*44    North   America,  west  coast: — San  Francisco  harbour. 

Price  2«.  6c/. 
724        m       =  various.  Indian  ocean : — Islands    and    reefs    between    Soychelle 

islands  and  Madagascar  (Dependencies  of  Mauritius) — 

Providence  and  St.  Pierre  islands,  with  Wizard  reef. 

D'Arros  and   St.   Joseph  islands.    He  des   Roches. 

Glorioso    islands.       Bird    island.      African    islanda 

Price  Is.  Gd. 
285        ra       =     0  •  0      Newfoundland,  east  coast : — Orange  bay  to  Gander  lay, 

including   Notre   Dame  and   White    l»y8.     (Plans, 

Cutwell  harbour.    Great  Troy  town  harbour.    Fortune 

harbour.)    Price  2s.  Gd. 
1471        m       =20*7      Ireland,  east  coast : — Kingstown  harbour.    Price  Is.  6<{. 
93Ga    Plan  added,  Aue  anchorage. 
712      Plan  added,  Neddy  harbour. 
(J.  D.  Potter,  agent.) 


NEW  MAPS.  311 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 
No.  Cancelled  by  Ko. 

950  Sandakan  harbour New  plan,  Sandakan  harbour    ..       950 

1055  Cape  Lambert  to  cape  Farquhar  ..  {  ^^c'livf"*'  ^'f^T  "'^"'^  ^  **^  1055 

289  Bonne  bay  and  bay  of  bland.s      ..  )   ,^        ,      _,       ,.,     ,  «„« 

637  Little  port  and  York  harbour      ..  }  ^^"^  P^*"'  ^^^  ^^  '«^^«^  -      -  289 

1465  Anchorages  on  east  coast  of  Spain  ^   New  plans,   Anchorages  on  the 

1239  Columbretes  rocks j       east  coast  of  Spain 1465 

591  San  Francisco  harbour New  plan,  San  Francisco  harbour  591 

724  Eagle,  Bird,  and  He  dcs  Roche.,  or  j  ^ZjJ^nX^rh^^^ 'XL'T^ 

W(ixii8knd      between  Seychelle  islands  and 

I       Madagascar      724 

285  Cutwell  harbour 

286  Triton  harbour      (  Nt-w  chart.  Orange  bay  to  Gander 

287  Fortune  harbour )       ^^ ^86 

3471  Kingston  harbour New  plan,  Kingstown  harbour  ..     1471 

2428  Kustcnjeh    to    Chernavoda    and 

Eassova. 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  2793.  England,  south  coast : — Cowes  harbour.  1825a,  h.  England,  west 
coast : — ^Irish  channel,  2  sheets.  1854.  Azores  islands : — San  Miguel.  1439.  Scot- 
land, east  coast: — Frazerburgh.  393.  West  Indies: — Providence  channels  to 
Windward  and  Mona  passage.  486.  West  Indies: — Jamaica  and  Pedro  bank. 
2407.  Russian  Tartiiry :— Eastern  Bosphorus  and  Novik  bay.  933.  Java: — 
Batavia  road.  71a.  India: — Coromandel  coast.  2403.  Malacca  strait: — Singa- 
pore strait  2397a.  Scotland :— North  and  east  coasts.  2806.  United  States:— 
Charleston  harbour.  769.  Pacific  ocean :— Admiralty  and  Hermit  islands.  1258. 
China :— Approaches  to  S6oul.  2881.  West  Indies :— Cay  West  harbour.  1624. 
England,  east  coast :— Scarborough.  1713.  Africa,  west  coast: — Cape  Three 
points;  Axim,  &c.  2347.  Japan:— Nipon,  Kin  Liu,  and  Sikok  island.  942a. 
Eastern  archipelago: — Eastern  portion.  2376.  China: — Tamsui  harbour,  Sau-o- 
bay,  &c.  814.  India,  Hoogly  river : — The  Sandheads.  1863.  Africa,  west 
coast : — Forcados  river  to  cape  Formoso.  2137.  Eastern  archipelago : — (Caspar 
strait.  525.  Gulf  of  Mexico : — Boca  Grande  cay  to  Tortugas  cays.  1877.  Africa, 
west  coast : — Gaboon  river.  1982&,  c.  South  America,  east  coast : — Parana  river, 
2  sheets.  1790.  Scotland,  west  coast :— Oban  bay.  2373.  Baltic  sea  :—Riga  gulf. 
CJ.  D.  Potter,  agent.) 

Dep^t  des  Cartes  et  Plans  de  la  Marine.— Paris.— Charts  No.  3897.  CCto 
Nord  de  France.  De  Calais  k  Gravelines,  Atterrages  de  Gravelines.  1882. — 
3911.  COte  Nord  de  France.  D'Argenton  a  la  Pte.  de  Corsen  et  Partie  du 
Chenal  du  Four.  1882.— 3910.  Cote  Nord  de  France.  Eade  de  Calais.  1882.— 
3891.  Cote  Nord  de  France.  Du  Cap  Gris-Ncz  a  Calais.  Atterrages  de  Calais. 
1882.— 3879.  Cote  Nord  de  France.  De  I'lle  du  Bee  ^i  Argenton.  Roches  de 
Porsal.  1882.-3905.  Cote  Quest  de  France.  Abords  de  I'lle  de  Molbne. 
1882.— 3901.  Mer  de  Chine.  Oite  Est  de  Cochinchine.  De  I'lle  Buffle  &  Poulo 
Canton.  1882.— 3899.  Mer  de  Chine.  Golfe  du  Tonquin.  De  Hue'  aux  lies 
Culao  Cham.  Environs  de  Tourane.  1882. — 3871.  Cute  Ouest  de  I'lndoustan. 
Croquis  de  I'Entr^  do  la  Riviere  de  Mah^.  1881.— 3908.  Oc^n  Indien.  Golfe 
d'Aden.    Berbera.    1882.— 3870.    Terre  Neuvc.    COte  Nord-Oucst.    De  la  Baie 


312  NEW  MAPS. 

(I'Ingomachoix  <^  TAdsc  aux  Sauvages  dans  le  Detroit  de  Belle  lie  1882.-^906. 
Guyane  Fran^-aise.  Kivi^re  de  SiDnamari.  1882.— 3825.  Tahiti  Cdte  EsL 
De  Pueu  &  Vaitoto.  1881.— 3863.  Nouvelle  Cal^onie.  Passages  d'lsie.  1881. 
—3859.  MerdeCorail.  lies  Chesterfield.  Mouillage  de  Tile  Longue.  1881.— 
3874.  Ocuan  Pacifique  Sad.  lies  Marquises.  He  Fatu  Iliva.  Baied\)moaoa 
du  Bon  Repos.  lie  Ua-pu.  Baie  d'Hakahetau.  1881.— 3912.  Ocean  Pacifique^ 
Archipel  Tuamotu.  He  Mururoa.  1882.  D^p6t  des  Cartes  et  Plans  de  la 
Marine,  Paris. 

XTnited  States  Chart— West  Coast  of  Mexico.  Eastern  Shore  of  the  Gulf  of 
California.  Harbour  of  Altata.  Surveyed  by  the  OfBcers  of  U.S.S.  Btmgtr, 
Commander  J.  W.  Philip  commanding.  1882.  Scale  3  cables  to  an  inch. 
Published  November  1882  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Washington,  D.a  Price 
Is.  5d, 

ATLASES. 

Atlas  Mannel  de  Oeographie  Modeme,  contenant  54  cartes  imprim^es  en 
couleur.  Parts:  2,  3,  and  4.  Hachctte,  Paris.  Price  of  each  part  2m,  6d, 
{Dtdau.) 

Oesterreicll-nngam,  Physikalisch-Statistischer  Hand- Atlas  von—,  in  24 
Karten  mit  erlkutemdem  Text,  untcr  Mitwirkung  von  Yinocnz  v.  Haardt,  "PxoT, 
Dr.  Anton  Kemer  Bitter  v.  Marilaun,  Franz  Bitter  v.  Le  Monnier,  General-Major 
Carl  Sonklar  v.  Innstatten,  Prof.  Dr.  Franz  Toula,  herausgegeben  von  Dr. 
Josef  Chavanne  und  ausgefiihrt  in  Eduard  Hulzel's  Geographischem  Jnatitate. 
III.  Lieferung.  Inhalt :  Xr.  1.  Warmevcrtheilung  im  Jahresmittel  (mittlere 
Jahres-Temperatur).  Nr.  8.  Karte  der  Stromgebiete.  Nr.  9.  Hohenschichten- 
kartc.    Wien,  Eduard  Holzel,  1883.     Price  7«.    (Dulau.) 

Schweiz,  Topc^raphischer  Atlas  dor .    Scale  1:25  000  or  2*9  inches  to  a 

geographical  mile.    Lief.  22  mit  12  chromolith.  Earten.    Swiss  Federal  Govern* 
ment.    Bern.    Price  13«.     {Dulau.) 

EDUCATIONAL. 
Schleswig-HolsteilL— Neue  Schulwandkarte.     Dr.  B.  Kiei)ert.    Nach  den  Auf- 
nahmcn  der  Koniglichen  preussischen  Generalstabes  bearbeitet  und  gezdohneL 
Scale  1:200,000  or  2*7  geographical  miles   to  an  inch.    Schleswig, 
6  sheets.    Price  6«.  6cf.     (Dulau.) 


T^^fflS^iA 


PuhUih^J  f\i 


■,:.Mt  V 


PROCEEDINGS 

or  THB 

ROYAL  GEOGRAPmOAL   SOOIETT 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


I7i6  Basins  of  the  Amaru-mayu  and  the  Beni, 
By  Clembnts  B.  Mabkham,  o.b.,  Secretary  f.o.s. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  April  9tb,  1883.) 

Map  (Imet  Map),  p.  376. 

The  receipt  of  Dr.  Heath*s  diary  and  valuable  maps  has  brought  to  our 
knowledge  the  achievement  of  an  important  feat  in  South  American 
geography,  namely,  the  discovery  of  the  whole  course  of  the  great  river 
Beni.  The  work  of  this  intrepid  explorer  will  now  be  brought  fully  to 
the  notice  of  the  meeting,  but  its  relative  significance  can  only  be 
properly  appreciated  by  considering  the  physical  aspects  and  the  history 
of  discovery  over  the  whole  Beni  system.  From  every  point  of  view  it 
is  a  subject  of  great  interest  to  the  geographer ;  and  moreover  it  includes 
the  story  of  other  noble  exploring  adventures  hitherto  unrecorded  by 
this  Society,  which  deserve  a  place  side  by  side  with  the  admirable 
work  of  Dr.  Heath. 

The  fountains  of  the  Beni  system  of  rivers  which  supply  a  large 
third  of  the  volume  of  the  Madeira,  one  of  the  chief  tributaries  of  the 
Amazons,  flow  from  the  great  snowy  chain  of  the  Eastern  Andes  for  a 
length  of  upwards  of  500  miles.  They  converge  into  two  main  streams 
called  the  Amaru-mayu  or  Mayu-tata,  and  the  Beni,  which,  uniting 
with  each  other,  and  then  with  the  MamorS,  combine,  with  the  Itenez, 
to  form  the  great  Madeira  river. 

The  snowy  range  of  the  Eastern  Andes  is  an  unbroken  mass,  with  a 
high  plateau  to  the  westward  and  the  vast  plains  of  the  Amazonian 
basin  to  the  east.  It  sends  up  peaks,  such  as  Illimani  and  lUampu,  to  a 
height  exceeding  21,000  feet,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  these  towering 
masses  are  not  bosses  of  granite,  but  are  of  Silurian  formation  and 
fossilirerous  to  their  summits.  The  whole  range  is  highly  auriferous, 
containing  frequent  veins  of  gold  bearing  quartz  usually  associated 
with  iron  pyrites;  and  the  thickness  of  the  strata  is  not  less  than 
10,000  feet.  The  main  chain  is  nowhere  disturbed  by  volcanic  eruptions. 

No.  VI.— JuHE  1883.]  T 


814  THE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BENI. 

except  at  the  very  edge  of  the  formation  near  Lake  Titicaca ;  and  in 
these  respects  it  differs  essentially  from  the  maritime  cordillera  of  the 
Andes.  The  characteristics  of  the  Eastern  Andes  have  an  inflnence 
over  the  plains  which  are  traversed  by  rivera  flowing  from  them.  The 
limit  of  perpetual  snow  is  at  15,800  feet,  below  which  there  are  steep 
grassy  slopes  and  precipitous  declivities,  and  thence  nmnerotis  spim 
extend  for  varying  distances  into  the  plain,  inclosing  profonnd  ravines. 
It  is  here  that  the  majestic  beauty  of  the  scenery  of  the  Andes  is  folly 
realised.  Masses  of  dark  mountains  rise  for  thousands  of  feet,  with 
their  bases  washed  by  foaming  torrents  and  their  summits  terminating 
in  sharp  peaks  or  serrated  ridges.  The  lower  slopes  are  covered  wi& 
dense  vegetation,  the  green  tints  often  varied  by  masses  of  gorgeous 
flowers ;  and,  above  the  forest,  the  grassy  slopes  are  brightened  by  the 
yellow  of  calceolarias  and  the  rich  purple  of  a  melastoma.  As  the  ravines 
are  descended  the  forest  becomes  more  dense,  the  open  glades  disappear, 
and  the  delicate  pink  and  white  of  the  chinchona  blossoms,  set  in  glossy 
verdure,  begin  to  dot  the  hill-sides.  Everywhere  there  is  flowing'water, 
the  condensed  moisture  of  the  trade  winds  hurrying  back  to  the 
Atlantic.  Here  is  seen  a  white  sheet  of  continuous  foam  rushing  down 
the  polished  side  of  a  precipice  and  seeming  to  plunge  into  a  bed  of 
ferns  and  flowers,  there  a  blue  sheet  of  water  appearing  to  issae  from 
the  fleecy  clouds  that  shroud  the  mountain  peaks;  everywhere  the 
roar  of  falling  water.  As  the  ravines  subside,  more  extended  views  axe 
obtained,  and  at  length  the  vast  illimitable  plain  is  seen  stretohing 
away  in  one  unbroken  forest,  the  green  tints  changing  to  faint  blue  <m 
the  far  off  horizon.  This  has  ever  been  a  land  of  mystery,  a  la^d  io 
interest  and  excite  the  imagination  of  generations  of  explorers. 

As  would  naturally  bo  expected,  the  streams  flowing  from  ths 
auriferous  Andes  are  full  of  gold.  In  the  ravine  of  Tipuani  the  blue 
clay  slates,  associated  with  gold,  extend  to  the  river  Beni.  The  gold 
of  Caravaya  has  been  famous  for  centuries,  and  in  Marcapata  ia  the 
golden  hiU  of  Camanti.  But  the  products  of  the  ravines  and  o£  the 
vast  plain  beyond  are  not  confined  to  the  precious  metaL  Gold  is 
far  from  being  the  most  valuable  branch  of  their  varied  sources  of 
wealth.  This  is  the  region  of  the  chinchona  bark  richest  in  quinine,  of 
the  finest  coffee  and  cacao  in  the  world,  of  many  kinds  of  rare  and 
valuable  cabinet  woods,  and  of  iuexhaustible  supplies  of  indiarubber. 

The  two  great  rivers  to  which  all  the  thousand  streams,  pouring 
down  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Andes,  converge,  are  the  Beni  and  the 
Amaru-mayu,  which  unite  after  courses  of  500  miles  each.  One  may  be 
said  to  come  from  the  vicinity  of  La  Paz,  the  other  from  the  confines  of 
Cuzoo,  one  the  outlet  for  the  commercial  capital  of  Bolivia,  the  other  for 
the  ancient  capital  of  Peru.  The  Beni  receives  all  the  streams  from 
near  Coohabamba  to  the  frontier  of  Peru,  including  those  of  the  fisunous 
Yungas  of  La  Paz,  and  of  Ayopaya,  Caupolican,  Larecaja,  Apolobambo, 


THE  BASINS  0?  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BENI.  815 

and  Munecas.  On  the  Peruvian  frontier  is  the  ravine  of  Tambopata,  so 
rich  in  ohinchona  bark,  whose  river  becomes  the  Madidi,  the  largest  of 
the  Beni  tributaries. 

The  Amaru-mayu  has,  however,  been  ascertained  by  Dr.  Heath  to 
be  the  principal  river  as  regards  volume ;  and  this  is  explained  by  the 
physical  conformation  of  the  region.  The  rivers  which  form  the  Beni 
flow  direct  from  the  Andes,  down  ravines,  to  their  parent  stream.  But 
in  ihe  case  of  the  Amaru-mayu  system  there  is,  throughout  the  provinces 
of  Caravaya  and  Paucartambo,  and  beyond  the  spurs  of  the  And^,  an 
isolated  line  of  hills  running  parallel  with  the  main  chain.  These  hills 
are  described  as  precipitous  and  gold-bearing,  so  that  they  are  probably 
of  the  same  formation  as  the  Andes ;  but  the  hills  have  only  once  been 
visited  by  a  scientific  traveller,  Dr.  Don  Antonio  Baimondi  (our  Hono- 
rary Corresponding  Member),  in  1864,  and  his  narrative  is  not  yet 
published.  The  whole  of  the  rivers  of  Caravaya  are  diverted  by  this 
isolated  ntnge,  and  form  one  great  stream  called  the  Ynambari,  receiving 
tributaries  from  both  sides,  and  flowing  for  a  great  distance  parallel  to^ 
the  Ancles,  until  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Amaru-mayu  coming  from 
the  valleys  of  the  Cuzco  montaSia.  In  consequence  of  this  lateral  diver- 
sion of  the  Caravayan  rivers,  along  a  distance  of  nearly  200  miles,  a  very 
great  volume  of  water  is  conveyed  to  the  Amaru-mayu,  which  swells  its 
dimensions  into  a  noble  stream,  and  gives  it  a  right  to  claim  the  Beni  as^ 
a  tributary. 

Thus  we  have  to  contemplate  a  portion  of  the  snowy  range  of  the 
Eastern  Andes,  the  courses  of  the  two  great  rivers  which  drain  it,  with 
their  numerous  important  tributaries,  and  the  vast  unexplored  plain 
stretching  away  from  the  bases  of  the  mountains. 

There  has  been  a  halo  of  romance  resting  over  this  great  eastward- 
stretching  plain,  like  the  blue  haze  on  the  distant  horizon,  where  the 
apparently  illimitable  forests  seem  to  mingle  with  the  sky.  The  great 
civilised  empire  of  the  Yncas  was  established  on  the  lofty  plateaux  to 
which  the  Eastern  Andes  form  a  bulwark  rising  out  of  the  forests,  and 
the  Yncas  were  attracted  to  those  rich  and  unknown  regions  by  the 
desire  to  improve  the  condition  of  their  people  as  well  as  by  enlightened 
curiosity.  The  Yncas  formed  colonies  in  all  the  ravines  to  the  eastward, 
in  accordance  with  their  policy  of  exchanging  products.  Each  colony 
came  from  a  particular  district  on  the  lofty  plateau,  and  kept  up  regular 
communication  with  the  mother  village,  receiving  quinua,  preserved 
potatoes,  dried  meat,  and  clothing,  and  sending  in  return  cabinet  woods, 
medicinal  drugs,  fruits,  coca,  and  gold. 

It  was  a  more  formidable  undertaking  to  penetrate  far  into  the 
forests  to  the  eastward.  Here,  there  were  perils  without  end,  dangers- 
from  wild  animals,  from  savage  people,  from  swollen  rivers,  and  from 
starvation.  But  the*  almost  perfect  system  of  land  transport  and  com- 
missariat which  formed  part  of  the  Ynca  system  of  government,  enabled 

Y  2 


316 


THE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BENL 


that  highly  civilised  people  to  overcome  them  all.  In  the  fifteenth 
contnrv  the  Yiica  Yupanqui  determined  to  send  an  expedition  to  explore 
the  whole  region  of  the  Amaru-mayn,  or  *'  serpent-river,"  and  learn  the 
secrets  of  the  unknown  land  beyond  the  horizon.  During  two  years  he 
caused  timber  to  be  cut  and  dressed,  and  canoes  to  be  made,  while  dried 
provisions  were  collected.  The  stores  were  carried  in  the  centre  of  each 
canoo  on  high  platforms,  so  that  they  might  not  get  wet.  After  the 
expedition  started  the  first  work  was  to  overcome  the  fierce  tribe«  of 
Chuncho  savages  who  inhabit  the  forests  within  20  miles  of  the  base  of 
the  Andes.  They  were  so  compiletely  subdued,  not  so  much  by  force 
of  arms  as  by  wise  conciliatory  measures,  that  they  gave  in  their 
allegiance,  adopted  agricultural  bahita,  lived  in  large  barrack -like  houses 
100  feet  long,  40  wide,  walls  sir  feet  high,  and  good  pointed  thatched 
roofs,  in  accordance  with  the  Ynca  system  (and  continue  to  do  so  to  this 
day),  and  regularly  paid  tribute  in  kind  until,  by  the  execution  of  Tupao 
Amaru,  the  Ynca  rulo  was  unwisely  destroyed  by  the  Spanish  Viceroy 
Toledo  in  1571. 

The  Ynca  expedition  then  continued  tho  descent  of  the  great  Amaru- 
maju  river,  and  completed  the  discoverj'.  There  were  serious  losses 
by  the  way,  but  about  a  thousand  men  reached  the  country  of  the 
Moxos  and  formed  a  colony,  sending  news  of  their  success  to  Cuzco.  The 
main  facta  of  this  expedition  are  certainly  historical.  The  civilising 
influence  of  the  Yneas  thus  spread  over  tho  vast  plain,  and  Colonel 
Church  mentions  the  existence  of  an  ancient  Ynca  road  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  Beni, 

After  the  Spanish  conqneste  it  was  believed  that  many  thoxiaands  of 
the  Yncas  fled  into  tho  forests.  Expeditions  went  in  search  of  them, 
and  there  was  a  tradition  of  the  existence  of  a  fabled  Empire  of  Pay  titi 
beyond  the  eastern  horizon.  There  was  a  certain  basis  of  truth  in  thoee 
stories.  But  the  stem  facts  during  Spanish  times  were  that  the  savage 
Chuncho  Indians  encroached  more  and  more  on  the  few  coca  and  cacao 
farms  near  the  base  of  the  Andes,  that  the  missionaries  alone  succeeded 
in  penetrating  to  any  distance,  and  that  the  barkHcollectors  and  gold- 
seekers  scarcely  ever  went  beyond  the  outer  spurs  of  the  mountains.  It 
was  not  the  policy  of  the  colonial  government  of  Spain  to  seek  new  routes 
for  commeroe. 

As  soon  as  the  independence  of  Peru  and  Bolivia  was  established, 
the  people  began  to  desire  veiy  earnestly  that  a  highway  should  be 
opened  for  them  to  the  Atlantic.  They  saw  that  their  prosperity  and 
advancement  mainly  depended  on  that  great  measure,  and  that  there 
could  be  no  real  progress  for  them  until  it  was  secured.  Their  own 
efforts  have  not  been  wanting.  Especially  have  the  people  of  Cuzco 
worked  zealously  to  explore  their  forests,  and  examine  the  course  of  the 
Amaru-mayu  river. 

In  1835  our  gallant  countryman,  General  Miller,  conceived  the  idea 


THE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARU-MATU  AND  THE  BENT. 


317 


of  planting  a  military  colony  on  tho  banks  of  some  navigable  river  on 
the  eastern  dopes  of  the  Andes,  to  facilitate  the  discovery  of  tho  vast 
plains  towards  the  Madeira,  and  to  endeavour  to  open  a  direct  oom- 
uiunication  ^nth  Europe  by  the  Amazons.  He  was  Prefect  of  Cuzco  at 
the  time,  and  he  made  a  journey  into  the  forests  of  Pancartambo,  an 
account  of  which  was  published  in  our  '  Transactions'*  but  he  was  un- 
able to  give  permanent  effect  to  his  well-conceived  plans.  He  treated 
the  Chnnchos  kindly,  and  they  continued  to  l>e  friendly  during  his 
fiojonm  in  their  neighbourhood,  although  they  were  opposed  to  his 
farther  advance. 

But  jifter  1810,  they  began  to  make  persistent  attacks  on  the  few 
estates  near  the  base  of  the  Andes,  destroying  several,  and  spreading 
consternation  over  tho  whole  district.  The  Peruvian  Government  then 
commissioned  Colonel  Espinar,  of  Cuzco,  to  visit  tho  remaining  farms 
and  report  on  the  state  of  affaire.  Ho  loft  the  town  of  Faticartambo  in 
1846,  crossed  the  Eastern  Andes  by  the  pass  of  Tres  Cmoes,  and  visited 
tho  farms  of  San  Miguel  and  Coeuipata.  The  results  of  his  researches 
at©  embodied  in  a  Report,  published  at  Cuzco  in  1846,t  in  which  Colonel 
Espinar  gives  a  charming  description  of  the  scenery  of  the  forests,  supplies 
information  respecting  the  hydrography,  and  furnishes  some  account  of 
the  three  savage  tribes  of  Chunchoa,  called  Huachipayvis,  Treyuneris, 
and  Sirineyris. 

Tlio  next  pioneer  of  discovery  in  the  direction  of  tho  Amaru-mayu 
waa  the  Italian  friar.  Father  Bovo  de  Eevello.  Ho  was  a  man  of  largo 
proportions,  tall  and  broad-shouldered,  with  massive  forehead,  bald  head, 
and  long  beard.  Brave  as  a  lion,  foremost  to  lead  in  all  dangers,  he  was 
at  the  same  time  gentle  and  tondcr-heartod.  Ho  had  passed  several 
years  in  the  Holy  Land,  and  some  time  in  the  missions  of  Southern 
Chile.  He  was  well  versed  in  the  history  of  discovery  in  all  parts  of 
the  world,  was  a  naturalist,  and  a  good  geographer.  In  1847  his  fervent 
imagination  was  fired  with  the  idea  of  opening  a  direct  route  to  Europe 
for  the  ancient  city  of  Cuzco,  the  capital  of  the  Yncas.  With  boundless 
enthusiasm,  ballasted  by  great  leamiug  and  scientific  knowledge,  he 
plunged  into  the  forests  of  Paucartambo.  He  was  a  true  apostle  of 
progieflfl.  While  ho  worked  for  religion,  he  was  also  a  friend  of  geo- 
graphical science.  Solitude  had  for  him  no  ten-ors,  for  ho  found 
unceasing  pleasure  in  the  contemplation  of  nature,  and  of  man  in  his 
wild  state.  Eetuming  to  the  old  Yuca  capital,  after  a  year  of  close 
study  of  his  problem  in  the  forests  and  on  the  swollen  river  l»anks,  he 
published  his  '  Brllliante  Porvcnir  del  Cuzco  *  in  1B48,  a  work  remark- 
able a£  well  for  its  research  and  learning,  as  for  its  enlightened  and 
practical  views.    Ho  dedicated  it  to  the  good  General  Medina,  then 

•  R.  G.  S.  Jonm.,  vi.  p.  174. 

t  'PriiDero  Memoria  aobrea  loe  valles  do  FaQCartnmbo  y  Bdjooeatcs,  por  J.  D. 
EapiniiT.'    Cuzco,  184G, 


318 


THE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BENL 


Prefect  of  CuzcOj  and  concluded  with  an  ardent  appeal  to  the  inhahitanta 
of  tho  Ynca  capital.  "  People  of  Cuzco,"  he  exclaimed,  '*  to  you  Ijelongs 
the  initiative  for  navigating  the  rivers  to  the  east  of  your  Andee.  It  is 
for  you,  and  for  yonr  beat  intoreata,  to  turn  your  backs  on  the  Pacifies 
and  to  open  up  the  vast  and  fertile  Amazonian  plains." 

He  then  returned  to  tiie  forests,  and  when  Lieutenant  Gibbon,  of  the 
U.S.  Navy,  entered  them  in  1851,  he  waa  accompanied  by  the  entba- 
siastic  Italian  missionary  to  his  furthest  point,  at  the  Junction  of  the 
rivers  Tono  and  Piiii-pini,  where  the  Aniaru-mayu  may  be  eaid  to 
commence. 

The  appeal  of  Bovo  de  Rovello  to  the  manhood  of  the  people  of  Cuzco 
was  not  made  in  vain.  He  inspired  many  of  them  with  his  own  enthu- 
siasm. They  formed  a  "  Sociedad  Industrial  de  los  Valles  de  Paucarti^mbo," 
of  which  my  friend  Geneiul  De  la  Guardu,  then  Prefect  of  Cuzco,  became 
president.  Under  the  lead  of  a  talented  young  artist,  named  Manuel 
Ugaldo,  thirty-six  youths  of  Cuzco.  of  the  best  families,  entered  the  forests, 
with  the  intention  of  attempting  the  descent  of  the  Amaru-mayii.  In  I80I! 
they  reached  the  banks  of  the  Tono,  and  were  joined  by  Father  Bovo 
de  Eevello.  Ugaldo  had  conceived  the  idea  of  utilising  the  indiarubber 
of  the  surrounding  forests  iu  the  construction  of  a  raft.  Seai*ch  was 
made  for  the  trees,  several  depots  were  formed^  paths  were  cut  through 
the  forests,  and  eventually  a  number  of  indianibber  or  waterproof  cylin- 
ders were  prepared,  which  were  secured  to  the  poles  forming  the  raft. 
Father  Bovo  de  Eovello  instilled  his  own  enthusiasm  into  the  youth  of 
Cuzco,  while  Ugalde  directed  their  eflforts.  Two  rafts  were  thus  con- 
structed, and  launched  at  the  junction  of  the  Pini-pini  and  Tono.  But 
all  these  high  hopes  ended  in  disappointment.  It  would  seem  that  they 
ought  to  have  committed  their  foi-tunes  to  the  river  below  and  not  above 
the  rapid.  In  the  laidst  of  the  impetuous  current  the  rat...  iicountered 
the  rush  of  a  flooded  affluent.  They  were  driven  on  rocks  and  capsized. 
Ugalde  had  taken  the  precaution  to  provide  life-belts  made  from  the 
indiarubber  he  had  prepared.  His  people  were  all  saved ;  but  the 
expedition,. begun  with  so  much  promise,  and  can-ied  through  with  such 
forethought  and  perseverance,  was  wrecked. 

In  May  1853,  a  year  after  this  catastrophe,  I  penetrated  into  the 
forests  of  Pancartambo.*  I  found  that  the  Chunchos  had  since  made 
successful  attacks  on  the  few  coca  and  cucao  estates,  and  that  only  two 
remained,  called  San  Miguel  and  Cosuipata.  Hero  I  met  with  Father 
Bovo  de  Eevello,  almost  alone.  His  only  food  was  parched  maize, 
nhi/lm^  and  bananas.  I  went  with  him  to  the  point  where  Ugaldo  com- 
menced his  navigation.  But  ho  was  then  destitute  of  all  resources,  and 
enthusiasm  alone  could  not  take  us  further.  He  was  a  man  of  com 
manding  presence.  I  remember  looking  upon  him  as  a  forlorn  hope, 
holding  an  outpost  against  desperate  odds.  He  seemed  to  feel  that 
•  See  R.  G.  S.  Jouni.»  xxv.  p,  151. 


4 
I 


4 

I 
4 


b  while     ^M 


THE  BASINS  OK  TUK  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BE»I. 


810 


ht  held  his  ground,  like  a  beaoon  on  a  Tvatch-tower,  the  ycmthfi  of  Cuzoo 
wonld  continue  to  organise  fresh  attempts,  lie  was  the  rallying  point. 
Such  a  man  would  not  abandon  his  post  while  life  endured.  He  died 
there — a  noble  martyr  to  the  cause  of  geographical  discovery. 

Father  Bovo  do  KeTello  did  not  work  in  vain,  lie  instilled  a  love 
of  advcntnre  and  an  ardent  desire  to  achieve  success  into  the  people  of 
Cnzco  which  survived  him. 

In  1860  Don  Faustino  Miildouado  and  seven  companions  organised  a 
fresh  expedition.  With  scanty  means,  but  full  of  enthusiasm,  they  were 
resolved  to  encounter  and  overcome  whatsoever  dangers  and  privations 
might  stand  in  the  way  rather  than  fail  in  their  enterprise.  The  names 
of  thceo  gallant  explorers  deserve  to  be  held  in  memory.  They  were : — 
Faustino  Maldonado,  Estevan  Trigoso,  Andres  Guerra,  Baimondo  Estella, 
Gregorio  Maldonado,  Manuel  Chapalba,  Manuel  Santa  Eosa,  Simon 
Rodriguez.  They  left  Cuzco  on  the  26th  of  December,  18G0,  descended 
into  the  forests,  and  advanced  along  the  banks  of  the  river  Tono,  until 
they  reached  the  junction  with  the  Piiji-piiii.  Here  they  constructed  a 
raft  daring  January  1861,  but  by  the  time  they  had  finished  it  their 
scanty  stock  of  provisions  was  exhausted,  as  well  as  their  ammunition. 
Most  men  would  have  returned.  But  they  resolved  to  push  onwards, 
trusting  to  supplies  of  bananas  and  yucas  from  the  Indians,  or  to  wild 
fruit.  If  these  failed  they  could  but  die  for  their  country.  At  all 
events  they  would  not  turn  back-  This  is  the  stuff  that  the  young  men 
of  Cuzco  are  made  of.  There  are  few  nobler  deeds  of  heroism  recorded  in 
the  axmals  of  geographical  discovery  than  the  persistency  of  Maldonado 
and  his  comrades  in  risking  all  in  order  that  work  so  important  to  their 
fatherland  might  be  done.  In  February  they  embarked,  and  succeeded 
in  navigating  their  fraU  raft  over  the  rapids.  Next  day  they  wore 
attacked  by  savages  in  canoes,  who  hunted  them  for  many  hours.  As 
Ae  days  wont  on  they  became  weak  from  hunger.  Their  only  food 
mma  the  l^nanas  occasionally  found  in  clearings  along  the  river  banks. 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  great  river  Ynambari  they  were  attacked  again, 
mad  Andres  Guerra  was  wounded  with  an  arrow.  But  this  was  the  last 
hostile  act,  and  soon  afterwards  they  came  to  a  friendly  tribe  who  sold 
them  a  canoe.  At  length  they  reached  the  oonfluonoe  of  the  Amaru- 
mayn  and  Beni,  and  soon  aft^erwards  they  approached  the  rapids  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Beni.  They  had  explored  the  whole  course  of  the 
Amaru-mayn  for  the  first  time  since  it  was  desceudud  by  the  troops  of 
the  Ynca  Yujianqui  in  the  fifteenth  ccntur}'.  It  would  appear  to  be  a 
noble  stream,  and  clear  of  all  obstructions  from  the  point  of  embarkation 
to  the  rajdds  of  the  Beni.  Maldonudu  and  his  companions  abandoned 
their  raft  above  the  rapids,  walked  round  them,  and  constructed  another 
below.  But  they  were  now  very  weak  and  faint  from  want  of  iood. 
They  proceeded,  six  of  them  on  the  new  raft,  and  two  in  a  small  canoe, 
and  ou  entering  the  Madeira  they  met  with  some  friendly  Cari^^una 


820 


THE  BASIXS  OF  THE  AMAEU-JIAYU  AND  THE  BENL 


Indmng,  obtaining  a  little  food.  Continuing  their  voyage  for  eeveral 
days,  the  raft  got  into  a  dangL-rous  rapid  on  the  IStli  of  March,  was  dashed 
against  rocks  and  brokou  up.  Four  out  of  the  six  explorers  were  unfor- 
tunatel}'  drowned,  namely,  Maldonado  himself,  Grogorio  Maldonado, 
TrigoBo,  and  Guerra.  Two  reached  the  shore»  and  tho  two  in  the  canoo 
were  safe.  But  tho  four  survivors  were  nearly  naked,  weak  from  fasting, 
and  without  food.  At  length  they  reached  the  station  of  a  friendly 
Brazilian  who  supplied  all  their  wants.  They  were  sent  down  to  the 
Brazilian  town  of  Barra,  on  the  Amazons,  and  returned  home  by  way  of 
Tarapoto  in  the  following  May.  They  had  solved  one  of  the  two  great 
geographical  problems  connected  with  the  region  to  the  east  of  Cuzoo. 
These  brave  youths  of  the  old  Ynca  city  had  explored  the  whole  courBe 
of  tho  Amaru-mayu, 

In  1865  our  Corresponding  Member,  tho  accomplished  and  inde> 
fatigable  Don  Antonio  Raimondi,  turned  his  attention  to  the  Paucar- 
tambo  forcBts.  Like  General  Miller  and  Colonel  Espinar,  Baimondi 
describes  with  enthusiasm  tho  magnificent  scene  which  burst  on  his  view 
from  tho  pass  of  Tres  Cmces.  He  went  to  tho  estate  of  Coaiiipata,  but 
found  the  labourers  in  a  constant  state  of  alarm  at  the  approach  of  th» 
savage  Chiinchos,  while  all  the  other  estates  had  been  abandoned  and 
destroyed.  He  returned  after  making  numerous  valuable  obsenm- 
tions. 

The  next  expedition  into  the  rauoartambo  forests  was  undertakeik 
by  Juan  G.  Nystrom  in  1868.  He  reached  tlie  confluence  of  the  Pifii- 
pini  and  Tono,  reported  that  the  united  stream  became  navigable  at  tho 
junction  of  the  Marcapata,  and  fixed  several  positions  by  astronomical 
observations. 

The  spirit  breathed  into  the  people  of  Cuzco  by  the  enthusiasm  of 
Bovo  de  Kevello,  still  continued  to  animate  them.  In  1873  an  expedition 
was  organised  consibtiug  of  fifty  soldiers  and  pioneers,  and  coaunanded 
by  the  Prefect  of  Cuzco_himaelf,  Colonel  Don  Baltazar  La  Torre,  Soilor 
Germain  Giihring  accompanied  the  party,  to  conduct  the  scientific  work. 
Proceeding  by  way  of  Paucartambo  and  Tres  Cruces,  the  explorers 
reached  Cosuipata  on  May  25th»  and  pushed  on  through  the  forests,  to 
tho  junction  of  the  Pird-pini  and  Tono,  A  few  miles  further  on  the 
united  stream  forces  its  way  through  a  chain  of  hills  at  a  place  called 
Ccoiiec,  and  forma  a  dangerous  rapid.  Here  Colonel  La  Torre  begaik 
the  construction  of  a  raft,  but  tliero  were  deluges  of  rain,  and  the  river 
rose  so  that  the  workmen  found  themselves  on  an  islet  surrounded  by 
the  angry  flood,  and  overshadowed  by  the  dense  forest.  Owing  to- 
failure  of  provisions  a  number  of  men  were  sent  back  to  Cosiiipata,  and 
tho  party  was  reduced  to  twenty.  At  length  the  raft  was  finished,  and 
on  July  6th  it  was  resolved  to  move  the  camp  lower  down  the  river. 
Gohring  and  four  men  were  to  go  by  land,  while  the  Prefect,  his 
secretary,  Don  Baldomero  Cano,  Captain  Jos^  Maria  Chavez,  Ensigi^ 


THE  BASINS  OF  TH£  AMARU-JUYU  AND  THE  BENL 


321 


)  Caloma,  aod  tsome  soldiers  embarked  on  the  raft  for  a  trial  trip. 
No  sooner  was  the  raft  allowed  to  get  into  the  stream,  than  it  was 
whirled  impetuously  along  by  the  current  and  brought  up  against  an 
island.  All  hands,  except  Colonel  La  Torre,  jumped  out  to  hold  it  with 
But  the  rope  broke,  and  they  beheld  their  commander,  alone  on 
t,  carried  with  breathless  velocity  to  the  rapids,  and  disappear 
mmidst  the  foam  and  rocks. 

They  succeeded  in  wading  to  the  shore,  and  set  out  at  once  in  search 
of  the  Prefect,  bnt  with  little  hope  of  ever  seeing  him  alive.  Five  days 
afterwards,  on  July  11th,  while  they  were  holding  a  parley  with  some 
Sirineyri  Chunchos,  a  man  emerged  from  the  forest,  who  proved  to  bo 
their  lost  commander.  He  had  succeeded  in  steering  the  raft  safely 
through  the  rapids,  but  she  was  afterwards  wrecked  among  some  rocks. 
He  reached  the  shore,  but  had  since  euflered  terrible  privations  in  the 
forest,  and  was  exhausted  with  long  fasting.  The  party  advanced  for 
another  day,  and  came  to  a  beach  with  an  island  in  front,  where  thero 
were  about  fifty  Chunchos.  During  the  night  whistling  was  heard  all 
fxmnd  them  in  the  woods.  Next  day,  being  desirous  of  establishing 
endly  relations,  Colonel  La  Torre  crcisscd  in  a  small  canoe,  to  a  shingly 

ch  on  the  island,  bordered  by  forest,  with  Dr.  Cano,  young  Caloma, 
and  a  soldier.  The  others  watched  from  the  river  bank.  They  saw  the 
little  party  land  and  make  signs,  the  savages  who  were  standing  on  the 
beach  suddenly  disappeared  among  the  trees,  reappeared  with  lx)W8  and 
arrows,  and  surrounded  the  officei-s.  There  were  shouts,  and  reptuts  of 
revolvers,  the  savages  again  diaapjieared  in  the  forest,  and  all  was  silent. 
It  was  all  over  in  a  few  minutes.  Captain  Chavez  plunged  into  tho 
■water  and  swam  to  the  island,  followed  by  four  soldiers.  They  found 
the  body  of  Colonel  La  Torre  pierced  by  thirty-four  arroAva,  and  with 
two  blows  on  the  head,  each  sufficient  to  cause  death.  Dr.  Cano  was 
al»o  dead.  Young  Caloma  had  disappeared.  Sorrowfully  tho  survivors 
returned  to  Cuzco.  G  oh  ring  had,  however,  made  numerous  valuable 
observations.  From  a  hill  he  had  been  able  to  make  out  the  conflnonoe 
of  tho  Marcapata  with  the  Araaru-mayu.  He  constructed  a  map  of  the 
region  traversed,  and  collected  300  mineralogical  specimens. 

Since  the  death  of  La  Torre  in  1873,  we  have  no  further  news  of  tho 
progress  of  exploration.  The  calamities  wbieb  have  overtaken  Peru, 
have  checked  it  for  a  time.  The  flower  of  the  youth  of  that  country 
hajB  had  to  fight  desperately  for  their  fatherhmd.  The  bones  of  many 
3onng  heroes,  who  might  have  continued  tho  work  of  Ugaldo  and 
Maldonado,  now  whiten  the  deserts  of  Tarapaca,  and  form  heart- 
rending piles  on  the  sandhills  of  Tacna. 

Iliere,  however,  in  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Yncas,  is  the  spirit  of 
enlightened  progress  still  smouldering.  I'he  men  of  Cuzco  have  worked 
manfully  for  geography.  They  have  earned  a  claim  to  help  from  tho 
outer  world.     Will  they  not  receive  it  ? 


S22 


THE  BA5IKS  OF  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AND  THE  BENI. 


We  have  now  passed  in  review  all  that  lias  been  done  to  explore  ' 
main  courBe  of  the  Amaru-mayti  river. 

With  regard  to  ita  principal  tributary,  the  Ynambari,  which,  deflected 
by  the  oJBf-lyhig  range  of  hilb,  flows  parallel  with  the  Andes,  and  receives 
all  the  streams  of  Marcai)ata  and  Caravay^a,  our  knowledge  is  still  very 
scanty.  The  main  stream  of  the  Ynambari  has  never  been  exjdored  to 
its  junction  with  the  Amaru-may u  ;  but  its  head- waters  and  most  of  ita 
tributaries  are  more  or  less  known.  The  Ularcapata  ravines,  which  oome 
next  to  the  Paucartambo  valleys  (travelling  south  and  oast),  have  been 
famotiSj  for  the  last  hundred  years,  for  their  auriferous  depositg.  The 
golden  hill  of  Camanti  was  first  made  known  in  1788,  and  in  thi« 
century  cwmpanies  have  been  formed  to  work  it  In  1851  Colonel 
Bolognesi  undertook  to  collect  bark  in  Marcapata,  and  while  in  hL« 
employment  a  young  Englishman  named  Backhouse  (sou  of  Mr.  Back- 
house, of  tho  Foreign  Office,  who  was  on  our  Council  from  1836  to  1841) 
lost  his  life  in  an  encounter  with  the  Chunchos,  Next  to  Marcapata  aro 
the  beautiful  ravines  of  Caravaya,  also  famous  for  their  gold-washings, 
their  coca  estates,  their  cofleo  and  fruit,  as  well  aa  for  their  chinchonn 
bark.  They  have  been  frequented  by  traders  since  the  time  of  tho 
Yncas,  and  have  been  tho  scenes  of  intelligent  enterprises,  undertaken 
by  energetic  Peruvian  capitalists,  chief  among  whom  is  Don  Agustin 
Aragon.  But  they  have  seldom  been  visited  by  geographers.  In  1864 
our  Honorary  Corresponding  Member,  Don  Antonio  Eaimondi,  commu- 
nicated to  this  Society  the  results  of  hia  exploration  of  tho  rivers  San 
Gavan  and  Ayapata  ;*  and  my  paper  on  the  province  of  Caravaya,  written 
after  I  had  visited  the  ravines  of  Sandia  and  of  the  Huari-huari,  was 
published  in  our  Journal.f  Seiior  Eaimondi  also  made  a  journey  to  tho 
gold-mines  of  Challuma,  when  he  crossed  the  Huari-huari  (Ynambari) 
river. 

With  tho  Huari-huari  rivor,  in  Caravaya,  the  Ainaru-mayu  S3'BtGni 
comes  to  an  end.  It  is  t^oparated  from  tho  basin  of  the  river  Beoi  by  a 
ridge  called  Mamn-kunka ;  and  the  fiist  or  most  western  of  the  Beni 
tributaries  is  tho  Tambopata. 

The  lovely  ravine  of  Tambopata,  with  its  sides  clothed  with  many 
varieties  of  chiDchonaceoua  trees,  foremost  among  which  is  the  calidaya, 
waa  first  visited  by  Dr.  Weddeli,  tho  eminent  quinologist,  in  1846,  and 
in  18(50  I  penetrated  for  some  distance  through  its  dense  forests,  to  a 
point  some  miles  beyond  the  Yanaraayu  tributary.  But  my  duties  were 
not  consistent  with  extended  exploration,  and  Seuor  Kaimoudi,  in  1864, 
advanced  much  further,  to  a  place  called  Putina-puncu,  whore  the  two 
rivers  Tambopata  and  Pablo-bamba  unite,  both  flowing  from  tho  Andes 
on  either  side  of  a  lofty  forest-covered  ridge.  Senor  Kaimondi  collected 
information  which  convinced  him  that  tho  Tamljopata  formed  the  head- 
waters of  the  Madidi,  tho  chief  tributary  of  tho  Boni,  The  whole  course 
•  Jottraal,  vol.  xxivii.  p.  IIG  (with  map).  f  Vul.  rxxi.  p,  laO. 


1HE  lUSIXS  OF  TH£  AMARtT-MAYU  AND  THK  BEN  I. 


323 


of  this  important  riTer  has  not  yet  been  explored.  All  the  Andean  Eang«» 
from  the  Tambopata  to  Coohabamba,  semis  feetlera  to  swell  tbc  volume 
of  the  Beni.  Next  in  importance  to  the  Madidi  is  the  river  Mapori, 
flowing  from  the  bftsee  of  the  loftiest  peaks,  Illimani  and  Illampu,  and 
receiving  streams  which  water  the  ravine  of  Tipuani,  famous  for  its  gold- 
washings,  and  of  Coroico,  rich  in  the  best  species  of  chinohona  trees. 

The  main  stream  of  the  Beni  oomes  from  the  fertile  Yungas  of  La 
Pla«.  and  is  the  fntiire  outlet  for  the  trade  of  the  commercial  capital  of 
Bolivia. 

Until  the  voyage  of  Dr.  Heath,  the  oonrse  of  the  Beni  had  never 
been  completely  explored.  Searchers  for  chinohona  bark,  and  searchers 
for  gold,  had  penetrated  far  down  the  ravines  leading  to  it,  and  in  recent 
years  the  collectors  of  indiarubber  had  gone  to  still  greater  distances  ; 
but  the  most  oxtenBive  exploration  had  been  achieved  by  the  missionaries. 
Much  of  this  good  work  was  done  by  the  College  of  Moquegna,  in  Peru, 
«atahlished  in  viceregal  times.  One  of  its  disciples,  Father  Jos6  Figneira, 
was  in  charge  of  the  mission  of  Cavinas,  near  the  junction  of  the  Beni 
Atid  Madidi,  and  in  July  1802  he  made  a  voyage  on  the  former  river,  in 
the  GOUTBe  of  which  he  received  distinct  information  that  the  Beni  united 
with  the  Amaru-mayu  from  Cuzco.  A  Jesuit  mission  w^as  established 
among  the  Cavinas,  near  the  mouth  of  tho  Madidi,  in  1827.  A  missionary 
named  Samuel  Mancini  was  in  the  basin  of  the  Beni  from  1850  to  1864. 
lie  actually  traversed  tho  region  between  the  Beni  and  Amaru-mayu, 
here  called  the  Mayu>tata,  reached  Sandia  in  Caravaya,  and  eventually 
constructed  a  map.  Colonel  Church  tells  us  that  two  Franciscans  whom 
he  knew  at  La  Paz,  one  named  Fidel  Codinach,  had  reached  the  Amaru- 
mayu  in  1866  by  a  five  days'  journey  north-west  from  the  mission  of 
Cavinas. 

Still  tho  river  had  never  been  descended,  and  tho  lower  and  unknown 
oonrse  was  so  dreaded,  that  indiarubber  collectors  actually  conveyed  all 
their  produce  by  a  roundaljout  route  up  the  river  to  avoid  it.  As  regards 
the  mouth  of  tho  Beni,  in  the  river  Mamore,  an  expedition  had  been  sent 
to  aaoend  its  oourso  by  tho  Bolivian  Government  in  1846,  under  the 
command  of  Don  Agustin  Palacios.  He  went  up  the  river  for  18  miles, 
lirhere  he  found  its  course  obstructed  by  i-ocks.  Professor  Orton,  the 
well-known  American  explorer,  projected  tho  ascent  of  the  Beni  in 
1877,  in  company  with  Mr.  Ivou  Heath,  but  his  plans  wore  frustrated 
by  a  mutiny  of  his  people  when  within  24  miles  of  its  mouth. 

Such  was  tho  state  of  knowledge  of  this  interesting  river  when 
Dr.  Edwin  Heath,  brother  of  Ivou  Heath,  the  companion  of  Professor 
Orton,  undertook  his  bold  enterprise.  Colonel  Church  truly  says  that 
**  Dr.  Heath  is  entitled  to  mudi  praise  for  his  quiet,  unobtrusive  solution 
of  a  problem  which  has  greatly  interested  the  geographical  and  oom- 
caorcial  worlds."  Dr.  Heath  is  undcrstoo*!  to  have  been  once  employed 
professionally  in  Peru,  in  the  construction  <>f  tho  Aroya  railroad,  and 


Mi 


S24 


THE  BASIN'S  OF  THE  AUARU-WAYU  AND  THE  BEXI. 


was  afteiTvards  similarly  employed  by  the  contractors  of  the  Madeira 
and  Mamoro  railway.  Thence  he  entered  Bolivia  by  ascending  the 
Mamor^  to  Exaltacion,  and  proceeded,  by  the  customary  route  of  the 
river  Yacuma,  to  Eeyes,  near  the  river  Beui. 

On  August  3rd,  1880,  Dr.  Heath  left  Reyes  to  descend  the  Beni,  and 
visit  tho  indiarubber  camps  at  Cavinas.  He  embarked  in  a  boat  manned 
by  eight  Indians  with  paddles.  At  every  bend  there  is  a  sand-bar  where 
animals  come  from  the  forest  to  drink,  and  in  the  afternoons  jagaars 
were  often  seen.  While  stopping  for  breakfast,  some  of  the  boatmen 
took  the  opportunity  of  making  themselves  new  shirts.  A  young 
brazil-nut  tree  of  tho  proper  size  was  stripped  of  its  bark  to  a  height  of 
eight  or  10  feet.  This  was  taken  to  the  river,  placed  on  a  log  or  stone, 
and  beaten  with  a  stick.  When  free  from  the  outer  bark  the  fibres  are 
opened  and  form  a  good  cloth.  This  is  then  folded  in  the  middle,  a 
space  left  for  the  arms,  the  sides  sown  to  near  the  bottom,  and  a  slit  cut 
for  the  head.  When  old  these  shirts  are  as  soft  as  linen ;  and  thus  easxly 
are  the  boatmen  of  the  Beni  supplied  with  clothing. 

At  tho  part  of  the  river  reached  by  Dr.  Heath  on  August  12th,  in 
latitude  12°  45'  S.,  there  is  danger  from  savage  Chuncho  Indians  who 
make  inctirsions  every  year  from  the  north-west,  and  kill  many  of  the 
peaceful  Cavinas,  dwellers  on  the  Beni.  While  at  breakfast  on  the 
12th  the  boatmen  hastily  covered  their  fires,  quickly  and  noiselessly 
ivcEt  to  their  boat,  and  crossed  to  tho  opposite  aide  of  the  river.  They 
answered  Dr.  Heath's  inquiry,  who  was  surprised  nt  their  evident  fear 
and  caution,  by  pointing  to  smoke  curling  up  through  the  forest  near 
the  camp,  and  repeating  the  simple  word  barharos — savages.  Next  day 
the  boat  passed  the  month  of  tho  Madidi  in  latitude  12°  33'  13"  S.;  a 
great  tributary  which  causes  a  perceptible  increase  in  the  quantity  of 
water  in  the  river.  The  mission  of  Cavinas  is  two  days*  pull  up  the 
Madidi. 

On  the  24th  Dr.  Heath  arrived  at  Maco  in  12°  17'  25"  S.,  which  is 
110  miles  from  Reyes  in  a  straight  line,  and  217  from  tho  mouth  of  the 
Boni ;  but  by  tho  river  it  is  234  miles  from  Reyes.  Here  the  plague  of 
sand-flies  and  mosquitos  becomes  severe.  On  this  part  of  the  river  there 
arc  several  indiarubber  camps^  where  the  Bolivian  collectors  are  assisted 
by  families  of  Pacavara  Indians,  who  make  plantations  of  maize,  yuca. 
bananas,  and  sugar-cane.  These  people  pierce  the  septum  of  the  nose, 
and  thrust  in  fe^ithers  from  each  side,  at  u  distance  making  them  look 
as  if  they  had  huge  moustaches.  In  their  ears  they  wear  the  eye  teeth 
of  alligators.  Their  complexion  is  almost  white,  and  the  womcn»  if 
dressed  as  civilisation  requires,  would  for  the  most  part  be  beautifuL 
They  difi'er  from  other  Amazonian  tribes  by  reason  of  the  rapidity  of  their 
movements  and  conversation. 

On  tho  19th  tho  boat  passed  the  outlet  of  a  large  lake  called  the 
Mamorc-bey  (from  jnanwrt',  a  fish,  and  betf^  a  lalte),  where  the  Pirarticu  is 


4 


THE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARir-MAYU  AND  THE  BEXI. 


825 


fonnd,  and  only  in  this  lake,  after  leaving  the  falls  of  San  Antonio  in 
Brazil.  The  banks  of  the  lake  are  rocky,  and  in  the  next  bend  of  the 
river  below  it,  the  rocks  jut  ont,  on  the  south  side,  nearly  to  half  the 
^dth  of  the  river.  Rising  almost  perpendicular  above  these  rocks  is  a 
red  clay  bank  40  feet  high.  On  the  30th  Dr.  Heath  reached  a  camp 
where  the  indiarubber  trees  were  large  and  numerous,  there  being  over 
10,000  trees  in  a  space  of  five  miles  square. 

Remainiug  with  the  indiarubber  collectors  until  Septemlier  27th, 
Dr.  Heath  then  accompanied  one  of  them,  Dr.  Vaca,  down  the  river. 
Beaching  tlio  camp  of  Senor  Eudara,  another  rubber  collector,  his  project 
of  continuing  the  descent  of  the  Beni  was  encouraged  by  Mrs.  Eudara. 
"WTjen  the  Pacavara  boatmen  appeared  alarmed  at  the  idea,  she  said  to 
them  "  Go  with  the  Doctor,  and  the  Creator  will  protect  you."  He 
itinucd  the  voyage  in  a  boat  with  two  Pacavaras.     The  boat  was  a 

st  rickety  craft,  only  three  fingers*  breadth  out  of  the  water.  On 
October  6th  it  was  hot  and  sultry.  At  1,10  p.m.  a  hurricane  struck 
them.  Massive  trees  were  wrenched  from  their  sites  and  hurled  many 
feet ;  it  was  a  grand  spectacle  but  was  over  in  fifteen  minutes. 

On  October  28th,  Dr.  Heath  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amaru- 
mayu,  in  latitude  10"*  51' 42"  S.  On  a  sand-bar  in  the  middle  there 
were  some  capyharas  wallowing  on  the  edge  of  the  river.  They  merely 
raised  themselves  on  their  fore-feet,  and  wondered  at  the  strangers.  The 
Amara-mayu  was  here  785  yards  wide,  the  Beni  only  243.  The  dopth 
of  the  Amaru-mayu,  at  its  shallowest  place,  was  40  feet.  Five  miles 
below,  the  united  stream  spreads  ont  to  a  mile  in  width,  the  current 
running  three  to  five  miles  an  hour. 

Only  twice  had  civilised  men  ever  emerged  from  that  Amaru-mayu 
mouth  ;  the  troops  of  the  Ynca  Yupanqui  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and 
Maldonado  with  his  band  of  gallant  youths  of  Cuzco  in  1866. 

Encamping  late  in  the  afternoon  on  a  beach,  the  alligators  were  found 
to  be  numerous  and  much  too  familiar.  Dr.  Heath  had  found  the  meat 
of  spider  monkeys  to  bo  tender  and  excellent,  and,  to  keep  his  supply 
safe,  he  put  it  at  the  head  of  his  bod  and  partly  under  his  blanket. 
Towards  morning  he  was  awakened  by  feeling  something  near  him,  and 
0oon  after  heard  a  plunge  into  the  river.  Springing  to  his  feet  ho  found 
that  an  alligator  had  carried  off  his  meat.  Looking  round  he  saw  a  large 
jaguar  not  20  feet  from  him,  which  had  just  dug  up  a  nest  of  turtle 
eggs.     Having  finished  them,  he  marched  back  into  the  forest. 

On  the  9th  they  met  a  porpoise.  Their  absence  is  an  indication  of 
impassable  falls,  so  that  this  creature  was  a  hopeful  sign.  The  mosquitos 
now  became  dense  and  excessively  voracious.  At  10  am.  they  came  to 
a  rapid,  but  passed  between  the  rocks  with  ease.  An  hour  afterwards 
they  were  stopped  by  a  line  of  rocks  across  the  river.  On  the  south 
aide  a  smooth  rock  was  found,  and  the  boat  was  drawn  over  to  the 
waters  below  which  wera  very  turbulent.     It  was  with  great  difficulty 


326 


TRE  BASINS  OF  THE  AMARU-MAYU  AKB  THE  BENL 


that  thoy  proveutetl  the  boat  from  being  dashcxi  to  pieces.  It  began  to 
leak  badly,  necessitating  frequent  baling.  Next  day  they  sighted  the 
liilla  corresponding  to  the  Palo  Grande  Fall  on  the  Mamor6,  which  wa» 
already  well  known  to  Dr.  Heath.  He  infoi*mcd  the  Indians  of  their 
position,  *'  Then,"  said  one  of  them,  *'  thcro  is  hope  of  onr  not  losing 
our  lives.  Let  us  call  the  fall  *  Eaperanza  '  (Hope)  since  passing  that 
we  have  hopes  of  living."  Until  that  moment  he  had  been  under  the 
impression  that  hia  days  wcro  few  and  numbered. 

Dr.  Heath's  success  had  been  complete.  He  had  been  the  first 
explorer  to  descend  the  Beni  to  its  mouth.  But  he  had  done  much  mote. 
He  bad  mapped  the  whole  course  of  the  river  with  the  greatest  care, 
measured  widths  ami  depths,  calculated  volume  and  velocity  of  current, 
and  taken  astronomical  observations.  He  had  achieved  an  exploit  for 
which  he  deserves  the  highest  credit;  and  had  done  geographical  work 
with  care  and  ability,  which  is  of  real  importance,  in  the  face  of  great 
difficulties. 

He  determined  to  return  to  Bolivia  by  ascending  the  Mamor^  to 
Exaltacion,  a  distance  of  325  miles.  Thenoe  he  took  the  rout©  by  the 
river  Yacuma,  and  once  more  arrived  at  Heyes  by  the  11th  of  December. 
K©  received  a  fitting  reception.  Bells  were  rung,  houses  decorated,  a 
holiday  proclaimed,  school  children  met  him  outside  and  escorted  him 
into  the  town,  and  there  was  a  special  mass.  All  the  people  seemed  to 
consider  his  work  as  a  public  benefit. 

Dr.  Heath's  descent  of  the  Beni  has  given  an  extraordinary  stimulus 
to  the  indiarubber  trade.  Previously  1 85  men  were  engaged  in  collect- 
ing on  the  Beni,  who  gathered  104,000  lbs.  in  1880.  Within  fcmr 
months  after  his  return  to  Reyes  there  were  644  men  engaged,  and  now 
there  are  prc*bably  many  moro.  When  the  Beni  and  Amaru-mayii  are 
opened  for  commerce,  the  yield  of  indiarubber  will  be  enormous,  for  all 
tho  vast  plains  are  covered  with  the  trees.  Coffee,  cacao,  brazil-nuts, 
formerly  only  collected  for  homo  use,  will  be  largely  exported.  Vanilla 
beans  used  to  be  left  to  rot  on  the  trees.  Ipecacuanha,  cinnamon,  copaiba, 
matioo  abound,  but  never  were  collected  for  want  of  the  means  of  export. 
This  is  the  region  of  the  chiuohona  bark  richest  in  quinine.  Hides,  deer, 
jaguar,  and  sloth  skins  would  also  be  articles  of  export.  This  region, 
too,  is  the  home  of  the  cardeiial,  of  several  species  of  crax  and  penelope^ 
of  the  curasBow,  of  the  ant-bear,  armadillo,  peccarj',  tapir,  and  soveral 
kinds  of  monkeys. 

In  April,  Dr.  Heath  again  left  Reyes,  and  ascended  the  whole  oonrse 
of  the  rivor  of  La  Paz,  reaching  the  city  of  La  Paz  on  July  25th,  1882. 

W^c  have  now  passed  in  review  tho  efforts  which  have  been  made  to 
explore  these  two  great  rivers,  the  Araam-mayu  forming  an  outlet  for 
the  Peruvian  city  of  Cuzco,  and  the  Beni  forming  an  outlet  for  the 
Bolivian  city  of  La  Paz,  Both  have  be^n  navigated  to  their  mouths 
once  and  only  once;  the  Amaru-mayii  by  Moldonado  and  the  young 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.  327 

Peiiiyian  explorers  in  1866,  the  Beni  by  Dr.  Heath  in  1881.  Both  need 
farther  examination,  and  many  important  parts  of  the  splendid  region 
which  they  drain  are  still  unknown.  "We  want  an  aconrate  description 
of  the  great  lake  of  Bogoagnado.  The  eonrses  of  the  Hadidi  and  of  the 
Ynambari  remain  to  be  discovered,  and  of  many  other  great  rivers. 
Here  then  is  a  magnificent  field  for  the  explorer,  as  interesting  geo- 
graphically and  historically,  as  it  is  important  from  a  commercial  point 
of  view.  There  should  be  a  helping  hand  to  the  gallant  men  of  Cuzoo, 
the  ancient  capital  of  the  Yncas,  to  realise  the  brilliant  dreams  of  Bovo 
de  Bevello.  There  should  be  willing  aid  to  the  people  of  La  Paz,  to  the 
dwellers  round  the  sacred  lake,  to  open  their  hitherto  closed  up  doors 
and  let  in  ^e  light  of  civilising  commerce. 

In  no  part  of  the  world  can  the  exploring  geographer  find  a  nobler 
field  for  his  exertions  than  on  the  grand  rivers  which  traverse  the  virgin 
forests  of  the  Yncas. 


Exploraiion  of  the  Biver  Beni  in  1880-1.    By  Edwin  K.  Heath,  mj>. 

Map,  p.  876.* 

Ik  1869  or  1870  reports  coming  from  Cavinas  that  the  indiarubber  tree 
grew  in  that  place,  two  Bolivians,  Francisco  Cardinas  and  Pablo  Salinas, 
went  there  and  obtained  specimens  of  the  rubber,  which  they  sent  to 
Europe.  The  quality  proving  excellent,  a  few  men  entered  into  the 
business  of  rubber>gathering,  but  confined  their  operations  to  the  region 
about  Cavinas. 

On  arriving  at  Reyes,  near  the  riVor  Beni,  I  could  obtain  very  little 
information  regarding  the  river  I  hoped  to  descend.  Ten  months'  resi- 
dence at  Beyos  only  made  the  undertaking  appear  next  to  impossible. 
An  opportunity  presenting  of  visiting  the  indiarubber  camps  at  Cavinas, 
I  left  Beyes  on  August  3rd,  1880,  for  the  river  Beni,  distant  12  miles. 

The  first  league  was  open  prairie,  then  came  nine  miles  of  dense 
forest,  with  mud  six  to  eighteen  indies  deep.  The  carts  had  been  sent 
early  on  the  moiling  of  the  2nd,  arriving  the  evening  of  the  4th. 
These  carts  returning  carried  rubber,  but  required  four  days  to  reach 
Beyes.  There  the  rubber  is  sowed  up  in  hides  in  packages  of  150  to 
200  lbs.  It  is  then  transported  in  carts  to  the  river  Yacuma  57  miles, 
then  in  boats  to  Santa  Ana,  and  other  boats  down  the  Mamor^  and 
l^Iadeira  rivers  to  San  Antonio,  Brazil,  where  the  monthly  Amazons 
steamers  receive  it  and  deliver  it  to  the  rubber  houses  at  Para.  The  time 
required  to  transport  the  rubber  from  the  camps  at  Cavinas  to  the  port 

*  This  m^  18  from  Dr.  Heath'a  own  redaction  of  his  sorreja.  Copies  of  his  laige« 
scale  sunrey  maps  of  the  nvcr,  made  from  the  originals  lent  to  tu  for  the  purpose,  are 
deposited  in  the  map-room  of  the  Society.  Tho  reduced  map  can  only  be  considered 
as  provisioDBl,  until  the  whole  of  Dr.  Heath's  great  survey  can  be  published  on  a  scale 
large  enongh  to  show  the  detsil  of  the  rivers. 


328 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  TdVLR  BENI  LV  1880-1. 


of  Reyes  varies  from  25  to  50  days.  One  cyan  realise  what  dread  there 
must  have  beoo  of  the  unknown  course  of  the  river  lower  down,  to  oanse 
such  a  circuit  and  loss  of  time.  Reference  to  the  map  will  assist  one  in 
realising  this  condition  of  the  trade  routes  in  August  1880. 

On  the  Gth,  the  boat  being  loaded  at  10  a.m.  the  eight  Indians  dipped 
their  paddles,  and  the  voyage  down  the  Beni  commenced.  At  4.17  p.m. 
the  mouth  of  tho  small  stream  Sejuba  was  passed,  and  camp  was  made 
soon  after  on  a  sand-bar  in  front.  The  Seyuba  rises  in  naountains  at 
Tumupasa,  and  the  Tacaiia  Indians  living  there  follow  it  to  its  month, 
in  their  yearly  visit  to  the  Beni,  to  fish  and  collect  turtle  eggs  on  the 
sand-bars.  Their  indications  of  tl  e  position  of  the  town  of  Tumupasa, 
with  the  mouth  of  the  Sejniba,  give  mo  my  first  idea  regarding  the 
error  of  the  geographical  position  o'"  that  town. 

The  day  had  become  overcast,  and  at  8  p.m.  the  wind  soddenly 
changed  from  north-west  to  the  south,  blowing  with  great  violence.  At 
9  P.M.  the  rain  began  to  pour ;  towards  morning  it  turned  to  drizzle, 
with  a  stiff  breeze;  the  thermometer  fell  from  di°  to  62'  Fahr.  The 
7th  of  August  was  passed  under  shelter.  On  the  8th,  although  it  still 
rained  at  times  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  62^,  orders  were  given  to 
advance,  and  the  Indians  taking  off  their  only  covering,  a  bark  shirt, 
took  tbeir  paddles,  shivering  with  cold.  At  2  •  45  p.m.  the  mouth  of  the 
little  river  Tarene,  emptying  into  the  Beni  from  the  west,  was  passed.  Its 
mouth  represents  the  port  of  the  town  of  YbI  mas.  During  the  afternoon 
various  jaguars  were  seen  on  the  sand-bar  ,  and  camping  at  6  P.M.  the 
ground  was  found  covered  with  their  footpr  nts.  August  9th,  the  river 
and  its  bends  became  wider,  with  a  current  uf  one  to  two  mUes  per  hour. 

IQlh. — At  7  A.M.  the  river  Enaporera  was  passed,  at  8.56  AM.  the 
Tequeje,  and  at  2.20  p.m.  the  TJndumo,  These  sireams,  30  to  60  feet 
wide  at  low  water  and  8  to  10  feet  deep,  empty  into  the  Beni  from  the 
west.  The  night  being  favourable,  an  observation  for  latitude  was 
made,  using  a  triangle  Aust.,  giving  13'^'  12'  15"  S,  lat. ;  the  lower  part 
of  Eoyca  being  in  S,  lat.  14°  15'  56". 

llih. — -Many  jaguars  seen  to-day.  At  4.2  p.m.  stopped  in  the  month 
of  the  river  Negro,  It  was  100  feet  wide,  20  feet  deep,  without  current 
at  its  mouth.  This  river  had  been  partly  ascended  by  a  Frenchman, 
who  reported  the  alligatoi-s  so  vicious  that  he  had  to  return.  There 
being  no  good  place  to  camp,  the  descenC  was  continued  until  5.3  p.m. 
The  clouds  prevented  an  observation. 

12M.^"VVhile  at  breakfast  the  Indians  hastily  covered  their  fires, 
quickly  and  noiselessly  went  to  their  boat,  and  immediately  crossed'  to 
the  other  side  of  the  river.  Surprised  at  this  evident  fear  and  cantion, 
they  answered  our  inquiry  as  to  the  cause  by  pointing  to  smoke  curling 
up  through  the  forest  near  our  camp  and  saying  the  simplu  but  expressive 
word  harharos,  their  word  for  savages.  AYe  learned  afterwards  that 
every  year  this  region   is  visited  by  a  savage  and  warlike  tribe  of 


4 

4 
4 
* 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880  1.  3<29 

cannibals,  who  live  in  the  north-west,  and  who  kill  many  of  the  Cavinas 
Indians.     Cnrrent  two  miles  per  hour.     Camped  in  S.  lat.  12**  45'  27". 

ISth. — ^Killed  three  large  spider  monkeys,  called  by  the  natives 
tnarimonos.  A  large  fire  being  made  they  were  thrown  in  the  flames, 
which  singed  their  hair  and  blistered  the  skin,  making  it  easy  to  clean 
off.  When  scraped  they  appear  like  naked  white  children.  An  elevated 
platform  of  green  poles  is  made  over  embers,  and  the  monkeys  placed 
entire  upon  them,  where  they  are  roasted.  The  food  is  rich,  and 
preferable  to  all  others  as  soon  as  one  learns  to  forget  their  resemblance 
to  human  beings. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  passed  the  little  brook  called  Santa  Clara, 
the  old  port  for  the  mission  of  Cavinas.  The  next  bend  below  has  a  high 
red  bank,  the  first  high  land  since  leaving  Reyes.  In  former  years,  a 
tribe  of  Guarayo  Indians  had  a  village  on  this  high  ground.  They  are 
now  extinct  or  moved  to  other  parts.  At  12 .  22  p.m.  we  passed  the  arroya 
Yira.  About  4  p.m.  the  river  being  very  low  exposed  some  rocks  and 
made  a  strong  current,  needing  care  to  pass.  At  4  p.m.  stopped  at  Santa 
Bosa,  the  first  place  where  rubber  was  collected,  now  deserted  for  better 
places  below.  At  5 .  15  passed  the  mouth  of  the  river  Madidi  in  S.  lat. 
12°  33'  13".  This  is  the  first  important  tributary  of  the  lower  Beni 
and  causes  a  perceptible  increase  in  the  quantity  of  the  water  in  the 
river.  Two  days'  rowing  up  the  Madidi  brings  one  to  the  mission  of 
Cavinas. 

14th, — Passed  Todos  Santos  and  San  Antonio,  arriving  at  our  destina- 
tion,  Maoo,  at  2.8  p.m.  in  S.  lat.  12°  17'  25-5",  distant  in  right  line 
110  miles  from  Beyes,  117  miles  from  port  of  Beyes,  217  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Beni.  Distant  by  river  from  the  port  of  Beyes  234  miles. 
Time  of  descent,  58  hours  and  30  minutes.  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
find  the  proprietor  of  Maco  ready  with  boats  and  men  to  descend  the 
Beni  in  search  of  a  new  rubber  place.  Accepting  a  place  in  his  boat  my 
voyage  was  resumed  on  the  16th.  At  1 .8  p.m.  we  stopi)ed  to  take  coffee 
at  Sinoeino,  and  camped  for  the  night  at  San  Jose,  another  rubber  camp 
in  S.  hit.  12°  07'  33".  The  bank  of  Sinosino  was  nearly  60  feet  above 
the  river.  The  river  from  Maco  begins  now  to  gain  direction  eastward. 
Sand-flies,  marutnw,  and  tabanoit  black  and  yellow,  make  the  days  intoler- 
able, while  the  mosquitos  by  night  give  no  rest. 

17<A. — We  passed  San  Juan,  Santo  Domingo,  California,  Etea,  San 
Lorenzo,  camping  at  12.30  a.m.  on  the  18th  at  Santa  Ana,  the  last 
rubber  camp.  Here  we  found  a  family  of  Facavara  Indians  who  were 
living  with  Don  Fidel  Eudara  and  helping  him  to  collect  rubber  and  make 
plantations  of  rice,  com,  yuca,  bananas,  sugar-cane,  and  build  houses. 
Both  men  and  women  pierce  the  septum  of  the  nose  through  which  they 
thrust  feathers  from  each  side,  at  a  distance  making  them  appear  as 
having  heavy  mustachios.  They  wear  in  their  ears  the  eye-teeth  of 
alligaton.  Their  complexion  is  almost  white,  and  the  females,  if  dressed 

No.  VI.— JuHB  1883.]  *  z 


330 


EXPLORATIOJT  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1. 


afi  civilisation  requires,  would  be  for  the  most  part  beauties.  Their 
movements  and  conversation  are  rapid,  differing  from  all  other  Amazonian 
tribejs  I  ever  met.  Their  mode  of  counting  is  by  closing  tlie  hands, 
and  as  each  finger  is  opened,  saying  nata.  When  the  ten  fingers  are 
finished  they  say  echasu.  Needing  more  numbers,  they  repeat  wUa 
with  each  toe,  and  again  repeat  echasu  at  the  close.  Thus  using  fing«n 
and  toes  they  cc»ntinue  until  the  number  is  reached. 

18th. — At  2.20  P.M.  we  resumed  our  march,  Don  Fidel  Eudara  accom- 
panying  us,  having  two  Pacavara  Indians  as  part  of  his  crow.  Camped 
on  a  sand-bar  near  the  mouth  of  the  Jenejoya  river. 

19th. — Passed  the  Jenejoya,  a  river  200  feet  wide  and  20  feet  deep. 
About  six  miles  up  this  river  is  the  village  of  the  Paoavara  Indians. 

About  10  A.M.  we  passed  an  arroya  (little  stream),  the  outlet  of  « 
large  lake  called  by  the  Indians  Mamoreboy,  from  mamore,  a  fish,  and 
hey^  a  lake,  the  Firarum  being  found  there  and  only  there  on  the 
Beni.  The  banks  on  the  north  side  at  Mamorebey  are  rocky,  and  t.m 
the  south  side,  the  next  bend  below,  tho  rocks  jut  out  nearly  to  half 
the  width  of  the  river.  Rising  almost  perpendicularly  above  these 
rocks  is  a  red  clay  bank  40  feet  high.  On  an  island,  two  bends  below 
tho  clay  bank,  wo  saw  a  number  of  capybaras  feeding.  We  succeeded 
in  killing  one.  More  than  half  the  weight  of  the  living  animal  is 
water,  and  the  me^t  is  unpalatable  till  dried. 

21«/.— Wo  advanced  a  little,  remaining  in  our  new  camp  till  the 
23rd.  Senor  Vasquoz,  whose  guest  I  was,  resolved  to  remain  at  this 
point.  After  much  persuasion,  I  succeeded  in  getting  a  boat  with  nine 
Indiana  placed  at  my  servioe.  Accompajiied  by  two  BoliyianSi  we 
resumed  our  descent, 

2'lfA. — At  11.35  A.M.  we  passed  the  Jeneshuaya,  a  river  equal  in 
size  to  the  Jenejoya.  From  tliis  point  our  Pacavara  Indiana  gave 
indications  of  fear  to  go  any  further  down  the  river,  and  tbia  fear 
communicated  itself  to  my  companions. 

25^.— After  advancing  slowly  all  day  we  camped  at  5 .  43  p.m.,  the 
Indians  refusing  to  advance  further.  This  waft  in  S.  lat.  11°  11'  29", 
47  hours  16  minutes  actual  voyage  from  Maco.  My  calculations  gave 
the  mouth  of  tho  Beni  as  being  143  miles  distant  in  a  right  line. 
Pleading  did  no  good,  and  on  August  20  th  we  began  to  retrace  our 
course  up  stream,  reaching  on  tho  30th  unexiMJctedly  a  largo  clearing, 
where  we  found  Senor  A'asquez.  lie  called  his  new  place  "  Concepoion." 
The  rubber  trees  here  were  large  and  numerous,  there  being  more  than 
10,000  trees  in  a  space  of  five  miles  square.  On  the  12th  of  Septemb*>r 
we  again  arrived  at  Maco. 

On  the  2l8t  three  of  us  started,  opposite  Maoo,  to  cut  our  way 
through  the  forest  on  the  south  bank  as  far  as  the  pampas.  We  began 
at  6  A.M.,  each  taking  the  lead  in  tura,  and  cutting  vines  and  underbneh 
till  wo  were  tired.    In  four  hours  we  reached  the  open  pampas,  but  it 


« 


I 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1. 


881 


took  ns  only  fifteen  minutes  to  return.    This  will  convey  acme  Httlo 
idea  of  travel  through  the  Amazons  forest. 

I  oaoended  the  river  a  few  days  afterwards  to  San  Antonio,  and  there 
met  ninetoen  Arauna  Indians,  who  lived  on  the  Madro  de  Dies,  north 
and  west  of  Son  Antonio.  These  Indians  do  not  pieroe  their  ea.rs  and 
noee.  Small  of  stature,  ugly  featured,  one  could  readily  believe  thom 
to  be  cannibals-  Throe  years  previous,  Dr.  Vaca,  owner  of  San  Antonio, 
bad  purchased  a  boy  of  this  tribe,  who  now  speaks  Spanish  and  serves 
as  interpreter.  Through  him,  as  interpreter,  we  learned  they  considered 
the  descent  of  the  Beni  to  its  mouth  impossible.  Dr.  Yaca,  I  found,  had 
proriaioned  boats,  and  sent  thom  down  the  river  to  select  sites  for  now 
robber  csmps,  and  afterwards  to  descend  ten  days'  journey  beyond  the 
farthest  point  I  had  reached  on  my  former  attempt.  Dr.  Vaca  himself 
was  going  to  follow,  on  a  visit  to  his  rubber  station  called  California, 
where  he  had  a  small  boat  which  he  would  let  me  have  for  my  voyage 
down,  the  river.  I  was  not  long  in  determining  to  join  his  party. 
On  the  27th  of  September,  with  Dr.  Vaca  and  nine  Arauna  Indians, 
in  addition  to  our  native  crow,  wo  began  the  downward  voyage.  Don 
Antenor  Vasquez  sent  with  me  one  of  his  Indians,  one  who  had  been  my 
body  servant  on  my  last  voyage,  lie,  the  Indian,  volunteered  to  go  with 
me,  even  though  every  one  tried  to  dissuade  him. 

Sept.  2Sth. — We  landed  at  California.  There  I  found  submerged  an 
■old  boat  15  feet  long  by  4  feet  wide.  Bow  and  stern  I  could  thrust  my 
hand  through.  Pulling  it  on  land  we  caulked  it  as  well  as  we  could 
with  com  husks,  and  plastered  mud  over  them.  In  this  I  was  re- 
solved  to  complete  the  exploration  of  the  Beni.  Hastily  collecting  a 
few  things  necessary,  we  were  soon  ready  to  start  The  Mobima  Indian 
assigned  to  go  with  me  and  the  Indian  of  Senor  Vasquez,  was  suddenly 
^^  taken  sick,  whereon  Dr.  Vaca  ordered  another  man  to  take  his  place. 
^^^  We  pushed  into  the  stream  tlie  gunwale  of  our  boat  one  inch  only  out  of 
^H  -water.  The  boat  leaked  so  badly  we  were  obliged  to  bale  constantly,  and 
^^■>it  was  very  doubtful  if  we  should  refich  the  next  camp.  At  5 .  60  p.m. 
^Bwe  tied  up  at  the  camp  of  Juan  Limpias,  There  we  unloaded,  and  with 
^Vttsils,  bark,  and  mud,  repaired  our  boat.  The  next  day,  on  launching,  it 
^f  ^was  found  dry  and  good. 

29th, — We  arrived  at  Santa  Ana  and  were  welcomed  by  Senor  Eudsn 
and  the  Pacavara  Indians.  When  they  comprehended  what  I  proposed 
doing  the  Pacavara  appeared  frightened.  They  had  formerly  told  me, 
8onora  Eudara  serving  as  interpreter  (she  having  learned  to  converse 
with  them)  that  savage  Indians  inhabited  the  lower  Beni,  and  advised 
me  to  shoot  at  sight  any  Indian  with  long  hair.  Senora  Eudara  was  the 
only  |3er8on  in  Bolivia  who  did  not  throw  cold  water  on  the  undertaking. 
She  told  my  two  Indians  to  "  go  with  the  Doctor  and  the  Creator  would 
protect  them.**  As  we  cast  off  to  continue  our  advance,  the  Pacavaras, 
men  and  women,  stood  on  the  bank  and  murmured  "  death,  death."     I 


332 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENl  IN  1880-1. 


afterwards  learned  that  they  put  on  mourning  for  a  month  to  counteract 
the  evil  effects  of  having  looked  upon  the  dead. 

30fA.— Came  suddenly  upon  the  camp  at  Mamorebey  of  the  boats  aent 
by  Dr.  Vaca.  They  had  deacended  to  the  river  Joneshnaya,  made  a 
clearing,  planted  bananas,  and  were  on  their  return,  indignant  at  the 
presmnption  of  Dr.  Vaca  in  sending  them  to  die.  Satisfied  that  I  conld 
not  persuade  them  to  continue  with  me,  I  resolved  to  go  ahead  with  my 
two  Indians.  I  was  then  informed  that  one  of  these  Indians  belonged 
to  Dr.  Vaca,  and  I  had  to  give  hira  np.  My  other  Indian,  Ildefoni* 
Eoca,  had  a  raging  fever ;  I  told  him  how  matters  stood,  and  asked  him 
if  ho  would  return  with  these  men  to  Maco ;  he  answered  *'  No  ;  I  am 
going  with  you  as  far  as  yon  go."  Procuring  some  provisions,  as  soon 
as  Ildefonzo  was  a  little  better,  we  went  down  the  bank  to  oiir  boat.  It 
was  then  that  Dr.  Vaca's  agent  consented  to  let  the  other  Indian  go  also. 
As  we  started  our  boat  had  only  three  fingers*  breadth  out  of  water. 

Odober  Ist. — At  5  p.m.  we  reached  Concepcion,  and  remained  hera 
during  the  2nd  and  3rd,  Ildefonzo  being  sick. 

4<A,— My  Indian  being  a  little  better  wo  resumed  our  journey.  At 
10  A.M.  his  fever  returned,  and  we  had  to  tie  up.  The  heat,  sandflies, 
tabanos,  and.  the  sickness  of  my  best  man  made  the  prospects  of  our 
expedition  look  doubtful,  but  did  not  cause  one  moment's  hesitation  to 
proceed. 

5/ft. — We  resumed  our  voyage,  I  taking  the  paddle  of  Ddefonzo,  who 
lay  still  in  the  boat.  About  4  p.m.  met  the  canoe  of  one  of  the  rubber- 
gatherers  who  had  gone  down  to  a  place  near  the  river  Jeneshnaya. 
I  took  this  opportunity  of  oflFering  my  men  their  freedom  to  return. 
This  they  refused  to  do,  and  we  bade  good-Lye  to  civilisation  for  many 
days. 

6th  was  a  very  hot  sultry  day.  At  1.10  p.m.  a  hurricane  struck 
us.  Massive  trees  were  wrenched  from  their  roots  and  hurled  many 
hundred  feet  distant.  It  lasted  only  fifteen  minutes  but  was  grand  in 
its  might  and  effects.  The  cool  air  aided  us  all  and  for  the  first  time 
Ildefonzo  took  his  paddle  in  earnest.  j 

7th. — At  midday  we  passed  the  last  point  reached  on  our  former 
descent.  Various  times  each  day  we  landed  to  explore  the  country  and 
see  if  there  were  any  indications  of  hostile  Indians,  We  camped  on  a 
sand-bar  in  mid-river  in  lat.  11°  04'  46-2". 

The  8th  found  us  again  advancing.  At  8  a.m.  we  saw  a  stream 
emptying  in  fi-om  the  south  similar  to  the  Jenejoya,  to  which  I  gave  the 
name  Ivon,  in  memory  of  Ivon  D,  Heath,  the  companion  of  the  late 
Professor  Jamea  Orton.  At  12  a,m.  we  found  ourselves  at  the  junction  of 
a  much  larger  stream,  the  Madre  de  Dioe.  Triangulation  gave  it  2350  feet 
wide  and  the  lesser  stream  735  feet  wide.  Having  met  with  a  large 
island  two  bends  above  with  similar  appearances,  we  had  left  the  Boni 
proper  before  we  realised  it,  and  then  it  was  too  late  to  return  and 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1, 


883 


measQie  the  depth  of  the  Boni.  The  Modre  de  Dios  was  40  feet  deep 
at  its  shallowest  places.  Some  five  miles  below,  the  river  spreads  out 
to  a  mile  in  width.  The  current  is  now  three  to  five  miles  an  hour. 
'We  camped  at  4.30  p.m.;  alligators  abundant  and  very  friendly. 
Xtat.  10**  51'  42  "2";  sat  up  till  nearly  2  a.m.  to  get  an  observation. 
Having  had  our  monkey  meut  taken  from  our  boat  every  night  by  the 
alligators,  1  took  the  precaution  of  putting  the  meat  at  the  head  of  my 
bed  and  partly  under  the  blanket.  Towards  morning  I  was  awakened 
by  feeling  something  near  me,  then  soon  after  heard  a  plunge  in  the 
river.  Springing  to  my  feet,  I  found  an  alligator  had  carried  off 
oor  meat.  Occupied  by  this  event  I  did  not  notice  at  first  a  large 
jaguar  not  20  feet  away  who  had  just  dug  up  a  nest  of  turtle  eggs. 
Having  finished  his  eggs  he  marched  into  the  forest.  All  animals 
being  so  tame  led  me  to  hope  for  a  safe  passage. 

9ih. — At  6  A.M.  we  passed  a  large  stream  empting  from  the  north. 
To  this  I  gave  the  name  Orton.  This  river  is  as  large  as  the  Madidi. 
At  12.16  P.M.  saw  a  poipoise;  a  fresh-water  species  very  common  in  the 
Amaxons,  Madeira,  Mamore,  and  Yacuma  rivers.  Their  absence  from 
the  Beni  has  been  considered  proof  positive  of  impassable  falls  above  its 
junction  with  the  DIadeira.  This  lonely  creature  kept  us  company  all 
day  and  part  of  the  next.    It  gave  me  great  hope  of  success. 

Sunday,  lOth. — Passed  two  large  islands  ;  the  tabano  flies  left  us.  At 
10  A.M.  we  arrived  at  a  rapid,  but  passed  between  the  rocks  with  ease. 
At  11  A.M.  we  were  stopped  by  a  line  of  rocks  crossing  the  river.  Land- 
ing on  the  north  side  of  the  main  fall^  and  climbing  a  high  point,  I 
studied  the  situation  :  Can  we  pass  ?  on  this  side  no,  unless  we  draw  our 
boat  overland  through  the  forest ;  with  but  one  knife  this  was  not  to  bo 
thought  of.  Crossing  to  the  south  side  wo  found  a  smooth  rock»  and 
over  that  finally  drew  our  boat  to  the  waters  below.  With  great  difficulty 
we  prevented  our  boat  from  being  dashed  to  pieces  by  the  turbulunt 
waters  below.  At  6  p.m.  wo  were  loaded,  and  started  to  pass  through 
the  waves  raised  by  the  fall;  our  boat  nearly  filled.  As  darkness 
settled  down  we  tied  beside  the  bank,  where  a  ledge  some  two  feet  wide 
gave  sleeping  room  for  mj  two  Indians.  I  passed  the  night  alternately 
bailing  and  inking  over  my  notes  and  perfecting  ray  map.  The  hard 
nsago  had  made  the  boat  leak  badly ;  I  had  to  bale  often.  This  was  a 
night  to  be  remembered ;  although  very  tired  after  paddling  10  hours 
and  working  like  a  servant,  I  had  yet  no  time  to  sleep. 

As  soon  as  we  could  see  we  started  on  the  11th  without  breakfast  or 
sapper  the  night  previous.  About  8  a.m.  I  recognised  the  hills  that 
correspond  to  Palo  Grande  fall  on  the  river  Mamore,  and  turning  to  my 
Ttii^iana  J  informed  them  of  our  position  and  positive  success.  This  is 
the  point  where  Bursa  in  1846  reported  finding  so  many  savages.  At 
10  A.M.  we  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Boni,  at  a  banana  patch  planted 
August  20th,  1879,  while  ascending  into  Bolivia. 


S34 


BXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1. 


Our  wiccees  had  been  oomplete.  What  should  we  do  now?  To 
return  by  tho  Beiii  would  be  liazardous  in  case  of  sicknese  or  aocideDt; 
therefore  we  decided  to  ascend  tlie  Mamore  326  miles  to  Exaltaoiou. 
By  this  time  our  food  had  been  redaoed  to  what  game  we  could  procuTB, 
dried  plantains  and  yuca  (now  wormy),  and  yuca  meal.  ^  To  prevent 
the  loss  of  my  noteH  in  case  of  accident,  I  wrote  out  a  condensed 
account,  directed  it  to  tho  owner  of  the  plantation^  which  I  placed  in  a 
safe  place,  and  I  cat  a  notice  of  it  in  a  tree.  While  stopping  for  dinner, 
I  again  out  in  a  tree  notice  of  what  hswi  been  done.  That  night  w© 
slept  at  the  foot  of  tho  rapid  Lagcs. 

The  12ih  was  passed  in  the  s^ime  place  owing  to  sickness  of  one  of 
my  men.  On  the  13th  we  passed  Lagos  and  Palo  Grande  rapids.  At 
the  latter  we  had  our  boat  submerged,  losing  all  our  bananas,  nibber 
clothing,  and  our  last  knife ;  our  food,  which  was  sewed  up  in  a  hide, 
and  our  paddles  were  carried  to  the  centre  of  an  immense  whirlpool, 
and  were  saved  by  B\rimming  tx>  them  and  pushing  them  out — on©  of 
our  paddles  was  lost.  Finding  a  stick  that  had  once  been  blocked  out 
to  make  a  paddle,  I  patiently  reduced  it  to  the  proper  size  by  aid  of  fiio 
and  a  stone. 

15/A. — We  passed  the  falls  of  Bananeira,  which  corresponds  to 
"  Esperanza  "  on  the  Boni. 

16/A. — We  passetl  the  rapids  of  Guajara-UuaBeu  and  Guajara-Merim. 

17(A.— Being  a  windy  and  stormy  day  wo  had  to  tie  up  most  of  the 
time,  the  waves  being  too  high  for  our  boat.  That  night,  aliout  10  PJf., 
I  was  obliged  to  call  my  Indians,  who  were  sleeping  on  tho  bank  near 
by.  We  had  barely  time  to  take  our  things  out,  as  the  boat  filled  and 
sank. 

ISlh, — After  an  hour  of  Lard  work  we  succeeded  in  causing  our  boat 
to  float.  It  leaked  badly,  and  until  November  5th  when  we  arrived  at 
tho  port  of  San  Martin,  the  lower  port  for  Exaltacion^  my  feet  were  not 
dry,  and  it  was  with  great  care  we  kept  afloat.     S.  lat.  10^  09'  45". 

We  left  Exaltacion  on  the  10th  of  November,  and  resumed  our 
ascent  of  tho  Mamore,  finally  reacliing  Reyes  on  the  11th  of  December. 
On  our  arrival  bells  were  rung,  houses  decorated,  a  holiday  proclaimed, 
school  children  mot  me  three  miles  out  and  escorted  me  to  Beyee, 
mass  woB  said,  and  all  seemed  to  consider  my  work'  as  a  public  benefit. 
Men  becaino  crazed  over  the  rubber  prospect,  and  many  sold  their 
cattle  and  lands  to  go  into  tho  business.  Before  the  exploration,  1 85 
men  were  engaged  in  collecting  rubber  on  tho  river  Beni,  gathering 
104,000  lbs.  in  1880.  Within  four  months  after  the  exploration  that 
numl>er  had  increased  to  644,  and  most  likely  by  this  time  there  are  from 
1000  to  2000  employed.  WTiat  then  must  the  yield  bo  now?  They 
then  only  gathered  eight  mouths  each  year,  needing  the  remainder  to 
deliver  the  rubber  at  tho  port  of  Eeyex,  to  plant  their  rice,  yuca, 
bananas,  coiiij  onions^  &o.,  and  collect  palm-nuts.     Now  they  only 


4 


4 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1. 


335 


two  months  in  the  working  of  their  plantations,  having  ten  months  to 
Iploy  in  collecting  rubber.  Formerly,  coffee,  cacao,  and  brazil  nuts 
■  vima  only  collected  for  home  use,  now  they  can  be  exported  in  large 
(loantitics.  Vanilla  beans  were  left  to  rot  on  the  vines,  I|iecac,  copaiba, 
cinnamon,  coto  bark,  matico,  were  never  gathered.  Hidee,  deer,  tiger, 
and  sloth  skins  were  occasionaUy  shipped.  This  is  the  home  of  the 
cwrdenal,  matico,  tordo  curiche,  tordo  birds;  wild  turkeys,  mutau  or 
cttiraaow  turkey,  jacumin  ostrich,  the  ant-bear,  armadillo,  wild  hog,  and 
various  species  of  monkey's.  The  Victoria  Begiaj  and  numerous  varieties 
of  the  passion  flower  are  abundant. 

AsCfiNT  OF  THE   BeNI   AND   La    PaZ  BlVERS. 

April  26</»,  1882.— Having,  as  already  narrated,  descended  the  Beni 
from  near  Reyes  to  its  mouth,  I  now  set  out  to  navigate  the  upper  river 
as  far  as  the  city  of  La  Paz.  I  left  Reyes,  accompanied  by  Mr,  Fetterman 
and  his  Bolivian  wife.  We  arrived  at  Ritrinabaque,  the  upper  port  of 
Beyee,  on  the  Beni,  that  night.  The  port  is  24  miles  from  Ecyes  by  the 
road,  the  last  20  miles  being  through  dense  forests.  Although  the 
main  road  between  the  department  of  Beni  and  Luke  Titicaca,  by  way  of 
Apolobamba,  it  is  in  a  very  bad  state.  Between  this  port  and  the  lower 
one,  called  Port  of  Salinas,  or  Oavinaa,  there  are  throe  rapid  places,  and 
for  this  reason  all  rubber  from  below  used  to  be  left  at  the  lower  port. 
That  no  part  of  the  river  might  be  omitted  in  my  map,  I  started  on 
April  28th  with  a  canoe  and  six  Indians  to  visit  the  lower  port.  The 
ent  was  made  in  three  hours.     As  we  passed  the  third  current  I 

ated  out  the  place  where  the  raft  of  Cura  Seratia  overturned,  which 
iuiahap  cooled  his  zeal  for  the  fiirthei-  continuance  of  the  exploration. 
Working  early  and  late,  we  succeeded  in  returning  by  midday  on  the  30th. 

May  2nd  and  3rd  I  occupied  in  going  on  mule-back  to  Tumnpasa^ 
which  I  found  in  S.  lat,  14^  07'  48",  and  San  Jose  directly  west  of  this 
on  the  river  Teuche.  The  correct  positions  of  Tumupajsa,  San  Jos^, 
and  Ysiamas  were  determined.  Tumupasa  is  on  the  side  of  the 
Andine  chain  just  above  the  forests,  so  that  looking  eastward  one  sees 
only  a  sea  of  verdure.  To  reach  San  Jo86  it  is  necessary  to  pass  one 
moimtain  and  descend  to  the  valley  beneath.  Ysiamas  is  situated  in 
the  foA'eet  at  the  foot  of  and  away  from  the  mountains.  Opposite 
Rurinabaqne,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  Beni,  is  a  little  town,  called 
Son  Buenaventura.  Between  this  town  and  Tumupasa,  there  are  fifty- 
tkree  streams  to  cross  of  various  sizes.  The  large  ones  only  are  noted 
on  my  map.  From  Kurinabaque,  the  upper  Beni  is  traversed  by  rafts 
made  from  the  balsa  tree  {Ochroma  piscatoria).  These  rafts  are  made 
by  nailing  seven  logs  together  by  moans  of  strips  of  black  palm.  The 
logs  are  five  to  eight  inches  in  diameter.  The  rafts  are  from  25  to 
I  30  feet  long,  and  five  to  seven  feet  wide.  These  are  out  slanting  to  a 
r  point  in  front     The  logs  are  chosen  with  a  curve  so  that  the  extreme 


886  EXPLORATIOK  OF  TH£  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1. 

bow  shall  be  some  two  feet  elevated,  thus  preventing  the  submerging  of 
the  front  as  it  tonohes  a  ourrent  or  falL  Into  the  fifth  and  fcnirth  logs, 
counting  from  the  centre,  strips  of  black  palm  are  nailed  so  that  their 
top  is  one  foot  above  the  raft.  Midway  between  these  palm  sticks  stiff 
poles  are  lashed  across  the  raft,  and  upon  them  a  floor  of  slit  bamboo 
placed  and  fastened  with  strips  of  bark.  The  same  is  done  to  the  upper 
part  of  the  palm  sticks ;  this  forms  an  elevated  platform  with  sides  for 
the  baggage  and  passengers.  This  platform  is  called  huartieha.  Two 
cords  of  twisted  bark  the  size  of  a  bed  cord  and  50  feet  long,  are  tied  to 
the  bow,  and  a  bit  of  board  six  inches  long  is  set  in  lengthwise  and 
lashed  tightly,  as  a  rest  for  a  pole  when  towing,  the  Indian  babero  by 
this  means  keeping  the  raft  from  the  shore.  Three  men  are  necessary 
to  manage  a  raft,  two  in  front  and  one  behind.  Each  is  provided  with 
a  pole  18  feet  long  and  a  paddle.  The  raft  is  poled  up  stream  or  towed 
when  sand-bars  or  the  shore  permits,  and  the  paddle  is  used  in  crossing 
from  side  to  side  as  necessity  demands. 

15tK — ^We  loaded  and  started,  having  only  four  balsas  and  scant 
number  of  men.  Passing  through  the  narrow  **Encanada,"  a  gorge 
made-  by  a  crossing  spur  of  the  Andes,  we  began  towing  along  a  sand- 
bar, but  soon  camped  and  rearranged  our  rafts. 

ISih. — We  resumed  our  ascent  in  earnest,  and  passing  another 
narrow  gorge  through  a  mountain  that  has  a  small  hole  through  it  near 
the  top,  as  if  pierced  by  a  cannon  ball,  from  which  it  derives  the  name 
Encanada  de  Bala,  we  camped  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Sanis  in  S.  lat. 
li°  34'  61'.  Up  the  stream  were  a  party  of  men  collecting  pemvian 
bark. 

nth. — Early  in  the  day  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  river  Tuiohi 
in  estimated  lat.  S.  14°  36'  61",  Rurinabaque  being  in  14°  26'  21", 
and  Tumupasa  14°  07'  48".  My  map  is  correct,  though  differing  from 
all  others.  Just  below  the  junction  the  river  is  cut  up  with  islands, 
the  western  side  being  a  yellow  clay  bank  70  feet  high,  and  the  current 
very  swift.  During  the  afternoon  wo  passed  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Quiquibey,  and  camped  just  above. 

18/^. — Our  progress  to-day  was  very  slow,  as  the  river  spreads  very 
much  and  is  full  of  large  islands,  the  river  Apichana  emptying  in  on 
the  west.  Towards  evening  we  saw  in  front  of  us  the  appearance  of 
five  gable  ends  of  the  roofs  of  houses.  They  were  the  ends  of  mountains 
now  nearly  perpendicular,  made  so  by  the  river  during  high  water. 
We  camped  just  above  them.  Our  rain-gauge  indicated  2*766  inch  to- 
day. During  the  night  the  river  rose  so  as  to  float  our  rafts  from  the 
sand-bar  where  they  were  drawn,  it  being  necessary  to  draw  the  rafts 
out  of  water  every  night  to  prevent  the  logs  becoming  water  soaked. 

May  19th  was  passed  struggling  amidst  the  islands  and  currmts. 
Being  obliged  to  cross  the  river  where  it  was  wide,  rapid,  and  deep,  one 
of  our  rafts,  carrying  the  provisions,  struck  a  snag  and  upset.    Every- 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  BIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.  337 

thing  being  securely  lashed  to  the  huaracha,  and  the  raft  finally  brought 
to  shore,  we  found  ourselves  deprived  of  all  our  sugar  and  bread,  the 
former  dissolved  and  washed  away,  the  latter  soaked  and  spoiled.  A 
cage  full  of  small  parrots  was  washed  away  and  lost. 

20fA. — ^We  paased  the  river  Sihuapio,  and  camped  at  the  base  of  a 
spur  of  mountains  that  here  crossing  the  river,  follow  down  the  river, 
on  the  east  side  and  then  jut  out  north-east  into  the  pampas,  their 
cut-off  ends  forming  the  gable  ends  referred  to  as  passed  May  18th. 

21f<. — ^Was  a  perilous  day  for  all.  The  river  was  narrow  with  several 
precipices  400  feet  high,  perpendicular  to  the  river.  This  is  called  the 
Kncafiada  de  Yeo,  and  at  one  place  where  an  island  obstructs  the  river, 
making  a  difference  of  level  of  two  feet,  there  is  a  fedL  This  forms 
an  impassable  limit  to  steam  navigation  on  the  river  so  long  as  the 
obstruction  is  not  removed.  The  little  streams  Sipita  and  Sama  empty 
in  this  narrow  gorge.. 

22nd, — Opened  rainy,  and  poured  all  day,  with  a  south  wind  and 
thermometer  down  to  62°.  At  about  11  am,  we  ascended  the  river 
Quendeque  (Indian  name  Tutiqno)  to  the  junction  of  the  river  ChapL 
There  we  met  some  peruvian  bark  collectors  encamped,  who  received 
OS  kindly.  Four  days'  raft  travelling  up  the  Quendeque  brings  you  to  a 
point  within  two  and  one-half  days  of  Apolobamba  by  mules. 

2Srd, — The  rain  having  ceased,  we  descended  the  Quendeque,  and 
again  began  the  ascent  of  the  Beni.  The  river  having  risen  some  four 
feet  made  the  current  very  strong  and  the  labour  of  our  balseros 
very  heavy. 

24ith. — ^Biver  fell  2J  feet  during  the  night.  Early  in  the  morning 
we  crossed  the  mouth  of  the  river  named  Caca,  on  the  maps,  but  called 
there  Huanai.  This  river  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  rivers  Mapiri 
and  TipuhuanL  The  river  Mapiri  has  beside  it  a  large  plantation  of 
Peruvian  bark  trees.  Otto  Bichter,  of  La  Paz,  having  one  million  trees. 
The  river  Tipuhuani  is  celebrated  for  its  gold-mines  (placer  mines).  We 
camped  at  the  poet  of  the  Muohanes  Mission,  S.  lat.  15°  10'  08".  Fraile 
Padre  Louis  Fernandez,  Padre  Prefect  of  this  mission,  has  a  fine  place 
here  where  he  instructs  the  Mositana  Lidians.  Our  reception  was  very 
oordiaL  His  care  is  over  the  two  missions,  Santa  Ana  and  Covendo 
above,  and  Tumupato,  San  Jose,  Tsiamas,  San  Buenaventura  andCavinas 
below. 

2oth  and  26ik, — The  river  hereabout  has  few  islands,  less  current, 
and  the  mountain  chains  on  each  side  are  separated  from  each  other  by 
a  distance  of  about  six  miles,  the  river  zigzaging  from  one  chain  to  the 
other.  Passing  the  river  Iniqua  we  camped  at  the  little  collection  of 
bark-collectors'  huts,  to  which  they  give  the  name  Iniqua. 

27ih, — Found  one  of  our  best  men  this  morning  with  tetanus,  the 
result  of  exposure  during  the  rain  and  oold  after  the  great  fatigue  of  the 
passage  of  tiie  Enoanada  de  Yeo.    At  8  p.m.  he  died. 


338 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BEN!  IN  1880^1. 


28M.— About  noon  we  left  Iniqua ;  at  the  same  time  a  oollectox  of 

bark,  who  had  aocompanied  us  from  San  BuBnaventui*a,  having  fastened 
Bidu  by  side  two  bttlsae,  forming  a  callapo,  started  dovm  the  river. 
He  aeaured  me  he  would  arrive  in  three  days,  although  wo  had  occupied 
eleven  in  the  ascent.  Another  spur  of  mountains  hero  cross  the  Beni, 
forming  the  Encauada  de  Iiiiqua.  We  camped  at  the  mouth  of  the  little 
Btream  Misere  in  S.  lat.  15*^  22'  29".  Leaving  this  gorge,  the  river 
forms  a  succession  of  rapids,  having  two  to  ten  feet  fall,  in  short  dis- 
tances, and  then  long  stretches  of  river  with  littlo  current.  Thus  we 
passed  May  29th  and  30th,  arriving  at  12  a.m.  of  the  30th  at  the 
mission  of  Santa  Ana.  Frailo  Padre  Cesario  Fernandez  received  ufl  with 
open  arms.  He  took  great  interest  in  my  maps,  and  showed  a  map  he 
had  made,  which,  for  one  not  skilled  in  the  use  of  the  sextant  and  com- 
pass, was  a  marvel  of  accuracy ;  it  represented  all  the  localities  of  the 
various  Indian  tribes  in  Eastern  Bolivia  and  Peru.  To  cheer  our  men 
I  paid  for  a  mass,  to  hear  which,  early  on  the  Slst  we  were  summoned 
by  the  tones  of  the  church  bell.  The  choir  were  all  Mositana  Indians, 
and  their  instruments — violins,  harp,  bajones  (made  of  palm  leaves,  and 
giving  as  fine  a  bass  tone  as  any  reed  organ),  fiutea — were  made  by 
themselves,  and  a  more  solemn  and  better  mass  I  never  vritnessed,  even 
though  I  had  often  attended  the  28th-Street  Cathedral  in  New  York 
city  while  a  medical  student.  Having  spent  all  the  night  in  fruitless 
watching  for  break  in  the  clouds  for  an  observation,  I  had  the  satis- 
faction  of  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun^  which  gave  S.  lat.  15°  30'  36". 
As  the  Padre  and  his  Indians  ]xad  often  visited  Reyes,  I  was  gWl  to 
get  them  to  examine  and  criticise  my  map,  which  they  did  thoroughly 
bend  by  bend,  and  after  two  houi-s'  careful  study  told  mo  that  it  lacked 
nothing  and  could  not  be  changed  or  corrected  in  any  part.  The 
Indians  asked  the  Padre  how  it  was  possible  that  any  one  passing  but 
once  over  the  ground  could  Ihj  so  exact.  Above  Santa  Ana  there  are 
many  islands,  and  the  river  spreads  out  foaming,  becoming  more  rapid 
in  its  current, 

June  Ut, — We  camped  at  Chevoy,  a  collection  of  huts  of  the  bark 
collectors,  and  June  2nd  at  Huaciii,  another  similar  collection.  Here  we 
spent  June  3rd,  4th,  5th,  drying  our  balsas  clothing  and  resting  our 
men.  Huachi  is  in  lat.  S.  15°  39'  25",  1422  foot  above  sea-level; 
estimated  distance  from  Reyes  by  river  325  milos,  with  descent  of 
662  feet,  making  an  average  of  two  feet  per  mile ;  while  Reyes,  distant 
2000  miles  from  the  Atlantic  by  river,  having  760  feet  elevation,  has 
but  '38  of  a  foot  per  mile.  This  would  be  the  end  of  steam  navigation 
after  removing  the  obstruction  at  the  EncaSada  de  Veo,  which  I  have 
before  mentioned.  Just  above  Huachi,  the  Beni  river  begins  by  the 
junction  of  the  rivers  from  La  Paz  and  Cochabamba.  Railroads  could 
easily  be  built  to  those  two  cities  following  these  streams.  A  short 
distance  above  the  junction  on  the  river   from   Cochabamba   is   the 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  R1V£R  BENI  IN  1880-1. 


339 


I 
I 

I 
I 


I 


ndasion  of  Covendo.    The  ascent  of  the  Rio  de  La  Paz,  or  Bopi,  was 
now  before  as  with  its  discomforts  and  dangers. 

6/A. — At  midday  we  left  Huachi,  Scarcely  had  we  ascended  the 
Bopi  two  mileSf  having  risen  73  feet,  when  a  sharp  onrront  nearly  upset 
cue  of  onr  balsas. 

7th» — Wo  passed  the  two  bad  passes  of  Santa  Felicidod  (unloading  wo 
carried  our  freight  some  300  feet)  and  Juan  de  Lana.  We  stopped 
to  breakfikst  where  the  river  Oincollaehi  empties  into  the  Bopi,  and 
where  we  met  bark-gatherers.  At  night  we  camped  at  the  foot  of 
the  mal  paso  of  Tres  Bancos.  A  peculiar  botanical  division  of  peruvian 
bark  exists  here.  Up  the  ravine  of  the  river  from  Cochabamba  the 
outer  part  of  the  cinchone  trees  is  green  in  colour,  but  passing  the  crest, 
west  of  that,  it  is  red. 

Sth. — We  passed  the  Tree  Bancos  mal  pcuo  Chieo  No.  1  and  2,  and 
arrived  about  noon  at  an  island  where  a  continuous  succession  of 
dangerous  rapids  called  mal  pasoe  obliged  the  unloading  of  everything 
and  passing  the  balsas  up  the  rapids,  and  loading  again  above.  We 
were  all  obliged  to  walk  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  through  the  rain,  crossing 
both  outlets  of  the  river  Chispani.  At  the  residence  of  a  bark-collector 
we  passed  the  night.  The  lofty  mountains  close  in  upon  the  river,  so 
that  there  are  but  six  hours  of  daylight. 

9IA. — We  passed  the  rapid  Santa  Rosa,  the  mal  paso  Ayuna,  where 
there  is  15  feet  fall  in  300  feet  of  distance,  and  camped  on  some  rooks, 
-wet  and  tired,  to  pass  a  tedious  night,  it  beginning  to  rain  at  7  p.m.  and 
oontinuing  all  night.     Unrefreshed  we  resumed  our  journey. 

lOM. — We  soon  passed  the  river  Lerco  and  mal  paso  of  that  name, 
then  Huichini,  Huayi*eruni  mal  pasos,  and  at  the  latter  unloaded 
everything,  and  with  great  difficulty  passing  the  rafts.  At  Chunchu 
muerto  (dead  Indian)  mal  paso  the  men  have  to  pass  the  rafts  singly  up 
a  current  some  400  feet  long.  My  raft  being  last,  I  had  the  pleasure 
•  if  seeing  a  balsa  and  two  Indians  descend  this  rapid.  Naked,  with  only  a 
handkerchief  for  breechcloth,  with  paddle  in  hand,  partly  crouching,  they 
awaited  each  movement  of  their  rafts,  and  a  dip  here  and  there  guide*!  it 
safely  where  one  little  false  stroke  or  one  unguarded  movement  would 
be  fiitaL  Tliese  two  men  turned  their  raft  beside  mine  and  handed 
me  a  letter.  News  having  been  carried  ahead  by  a  man  that  had 
left  Huachi  the  day  after  our  arrival,  a  sick  bark-collector  had  sent 
these  men  after  me.  Leaving  my  raft  and  mounting  their  light 
unloaded  one,  I  quickly  passed  the  other  rafts,  and  began  the  ascent 
of  the  mal  paso  Chico,  where  there  is  a  fall  of  25  feet  in  200. 
Our  rafts  passed  the  night  just  above  this,  while  I  on  foot  passed  the 
mal  paso  of  San  Fernando,  wading  the  stream  of  that  name.  The 
mal  paso  of  Ban  Fernando  is  a  fall  of  8  feet  in  20  with  a  large 
cutting  the  channel  there  narrowed,  by  projecting  mountains  on  each 
side,  into  two  parts.    I  arrived  at  6  P.M.  at  Porto  Bico,  the  residence  of 


340 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BEN!  IN  1880-1. 


the  invalid.  An  acute  attack  of  rheumatism  from  expostire  was  caoalng 
him  suJBFering  and  fear  of  fatal  rcBults,  common  to  these  men.  ITia  wife 
waa  afflicted  with  a  thickened  cornea,  a  disease  very  frequently  met 
with  in  the  monn tains  of  Eastern  Bolivia.  At  2  p.m.  out  rafts  arrived, 
and  men  exhausted  with  overwork  and  poor  food, 

12/A.— We  advanced  a  little,  and  on  the  13th  we  arrived  at  Siguani, 
the  residence  of  Senor  Cardinas,  the  owner  of  the  rafts,  and  with  whom 
wo  had  contracted  to  carrj'  lis  to  Miguillo,  the  head  of  balsa  navigation. 
Here  we  remained  resting  and  drj'ing  our  boxes  till  the  17th.  From 
just  below  Porto  Eico  to  Siguaui,  the  river  bed  is  wider  and  the  moun- 
tains more  separated.  Just  above  Siguani  they  again  close  in  on  the 
river, 

ISth. — 'Wq  passed  the  river  Chaquitas  with  its  bark  huts,  and  San 
Jose,  and  breakfasted  at  the  foot  of  Charia  mal  paso.  Here  we 
were  obliged  to  carry  everything  a  distance  of  1500  feet.  Then  we 
passed  Santa  Eosa  Foriati,  Mono-muorto  rapids,  the  river  Evenai  and 
its  house,  and  camped  at  La  Asunta,  a  little  village  of  bark-colloctore, 
in  lat.  IQ'^  T  16"  S .  Wo  have  now  left  behind  us  the  Amazonian 
forest^  and  the  mountain  tops  arc  less  densely  covered  with  vegetation. 
The  valley  here  is  wide  and  open.  Across  the  river  is  La  Asunta  de 
Belmonte,  where  Senor  Belmonto  has  a  large  village  of  his  workmen, 
and  plantations  of  peruvian  bark  trees.  An  American,  Dr.  Gove,  lives 
here  during  the  dry  season  while  working  the  gold-mines  on  the  river 
Cajones,  a  short  distance  above, 

19 (A. — We  passed  the  river  Cajones,  and  afterwards  the  Quinnni, 
juat  beyond  which  the  river  runs  west  and  east.  We  camped  at  Chara- 
bamha.  Colton's  map  represents  this  as  a  town,  and  so  it  was  a  few  years 
ago ;  but  being  composed  of  bark-collectors,  and  the  bark  having  given 
out,  all  left — except  the  great  percentage  who  accepted  residences  under- 
ground. We  found  only  one  little  hut  hero.  The  difficulties  of  the 
passes  above  made  it  necessary  that  we  should  leave  hero  a  part  of  our 
^*gg^g®)  to  l^  sent  forward  by  mules  as  soon  aa  possible ;  La  Asunta 
having  a  good  mule  roatl,  connecting  it  with  La  Paz. 

20iA. — A  short  distance  above  Char  aba  mba,  on  the  right  bank,  the 
mountain  is  perpendicular  to  the  river,  and  has  a  beautiful  cascade  of 
100  feet  fall.  Kear  by,  the  river  is  narrowed  to  40  feet  by  two  pro- 
jecting points  of  rock,  now  six  feet  above  the  surface,  making  an  almost 
impassable  passage  in  high  water.  To-day  we  passed  what  on  Colton's 
map  is  called  Hio  Vacas,  but  is  in  reality  Arcopongo  river. 

%\ii. — W^e  passed  the  river  Tumanpaya,  which  comes  from  the 
valley  of  Chulumani.  Our  river  has  become  quite  small  and  rapid^ 
being  a  steady  pull  for  the  men ;  the  hills  more  open,  and  nearly  free  of 
trees,  lising  to  3000  or  4000  feet  above  us.  Passing  two  very  bad 
passes,  we  came,  towards  3  p.m.,  to  the  EncaHada  du  Veniqni.  The 
valley  is  crossed  by  a  solid  rock  more  than  a  hundred  feet  high.     Through 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCUSSION.  341 

this  the  river  has  cut  a  cnrved  channel,  leaving  the  walls  perpendicular. 
Above,  the  river  bed  in  high  water  is  500  feet  wide.  A  sand-bar  throws 
the  river  against  the  obstmcting  rock,  which,  turning  its  course,  throws 
it  directly  against  the  side  of  the  mountain,  where  it  ascends  to  a  height 
of  16  feet,  crests  and  falls  over,  then  rushes  whirling  into  the  narrow 
channel,  and  thus  forming  the  most  di£Scult  and  dangerous  pass  on  the 
river.  Here  we  nearly  lost  a  balsa,  and  Mr.  Fetterman  his  wife.  We 
now  meet  maguey  plants  and  the  moUe  tree.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
and  sand-bars  show  traces  of  saltpetre.  The  mountains  now  have  only 
grass  on  their  summits  instead  of  trees. 

22im2. — We  passed  the  river  Zuri.  Three  miles  above  its  mouth  the 
river  Yacas  joins  with  the  Zuri,  forming  the  Zuri  junction. 

23r(2. — We  pulled  our  balsa  out  on  dry  land  for  the  last  time  near 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Miguillo,  lat.  16°  29'  32"  S.  We  now  took  mules 
and  went  west  over  the  mountains  into  the  Tumanpaya  valley,  and 
stopped  at  Irupana.  Observations  of  a  star  in  the  south,  another  in  the 
north,  and  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  gave  for  Irupana  16°  29'  09" 
S.  lat.  At  Miguillo  we  found  3360  feet  elevation,  having  risen  1 125  feet 
in  a  distance  of  150  miles.  Although  we  had  been  from  May  15th  till 
June  23rd  in  the  ascent  from  Burinabaque  to  Miguillo,  it  only  takes 
seven  or  eight  days  to  descend  that  distance. 

July  2lit. — We  left  Irupana  with  mules,  and,  returning  to  the  river- 
bed, continued  our  ascent. 

22nd. — ^We  passed  the  Chungamayo,  a  stream  coming  from  the 
snows  of  niimani,  whose  snow-capped  summit  can  be  seen  as  we  look  up 
that  ravine. 

2Srd. — We  passed  through  the  narrow  gorges  that  the  river  has  cut 
through,  and  passed  the  river  Caricata,  which  was  our  extreme  point 
south.    We  now  direct  our  course  to  the  north-west. 

25th, — At  2.30  P.M.  we  arrived  at  La  Paz,  and  thus  brought  to  an 
end  our  ascent  of  the  Beni  and  La  Paz  rivers.  The  Bolivian  Grovem- 
ment  were  much  gratified  with  my  work.  La  Paz  has  an  elevation 
11,985  feet. 

Previous  to  the  reading  of  Mr.  Markham's  paper, 

The  PaEsmxsTT  said  he  need  hardly  remind  the  Meeting  that  Mr.  Markham  won 
his  ge<^raphical  spurs  in  Peru ;  for  it  was  during  his  visit  to  Lima  and  Guzco  in 
1853  that  he  laid  the  groundwork  of  his  geographical  reputation.  He  revisited  the 
country  in  1861,  on  a  mission  from  the  Government,  in  order  to  obtain  living 
chinchona  trees  for  transplanting  in  India.  No  doubt  many  present  had  read  his 
account  of  that  journey,  and  he  (the  President)  could  confidently  recommend  those 
to  read  it  who  had  not  as  yet  done  so.  Several  papers  had  been  read  before  the 
Society  by  Mr.  Markham  on  this  interesting  country,  one  of  which  was  on  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  various  primitive  Peruvian  tribes,  and  he  bad  shown  his  continued 
interest  in  it  by  writing  a  history'  of  that  unfortunate  war  which  had  latdy 
raged  between  Peru  and  Chili.  The  paper  divided  itself  into  two  parts :  one  was 
a  hi8t(»ry  of  the  exploration  of  the  Amam-mayn,  the  other  the  history  of  that 


842 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCUSSION. 


of  the  Beai.  Oar  knowledge  of  the  Amaru-mayu  was  derived  from  notes  of  the 
travels  of  various  Peruvian  discoverers :  the  history  of  the  Beni  was  derived  chiefly 
from  the  recent  journey  of  Dr.  Heath,  an  American  gentleman  who  had  been 
employed  aa  medical  officer  to  those  who  were  engaged  in  opening  tip  the  country 
under  the  direction  of  Colonel  Church,  who,  he  was  happy  to  say,  was  present. 
Three  years  ago  Mr.  Mincbin  read  a  pajxsr  on  Boliviti,  a  country  which  seemed  to  be 
endowed  by  nature  with  every  element  of  future  prosperity  and  greatncaa.  The 
main  feature,  however,  of  the  present  paper  was  the  account  it  gave  of  the  sources 
ia  the  Eastern  Andes  of  the  two  great  trihutaries  of  the  Amazons,  which  themselves 
were  equal  to  the  mightiest  rivers  of  the  continent  of  Europe.  Colonel  Church  had 
been  engaged  in  one  of  the  greatest  works  connected  with  the  future  civilisation  of 
South  America  that  had  ever  been  undertaken.  Tliey  were  awaro  that  shijriping 
of  a  very  large  Bize  could  ascend  the  Amazons  and  the  Madeira  until  stopped  by 
certain  falls.  Those  falls  alone  prevented  shipping  finding  its  way  to  the  very  foot 
of  the  Eastern  Andes,  and  it  had  been  the  labour  of  a  considerable  part  of  Golo&el 
Church's  life  to  discover  means  for  overooming  that  great  natural  obstacle. 
After  the  paper, 

Colonel  G.  E.  CHmicH  said  that  a  year  and  a  half  ago,  when  crossing  the  Chim- 
boraao  Pass  of  the  Andes,  he  met  an  old  woman  and  her  daughter,  each  with  a  larige 
bundle  of  faggots  on  her  hack.     As  he  jogged  along  on  his  mule  he  conversed  with 
the  woman  about  the  condition  of  the  common  people  in  Ecuador.  The  finest  locomo- 
tive machine  of  which  she  had  any  idea  was  a  mule.    Finally  he  gave  her  a  two-real 
piece,  about  tecpence.     She  dropped  her  bimdle  of  faggots,  and  locjked  at  him  from 
head  to  foot,  and  said,  "  What  country  are  you  from?"    "  From  the  United  Slatei,* 
*'  How  far  is  that  from  here?"     "  Well,  that  is  about  1500  or  2000  leagues."    She 
looked  at  him  in  wonderment,  and  said,"  How  young  you  must  have  been  when  you 
started!"    Wlien  he  listened  to  Mr«  Clements  Markham'a  paper,  ranging  as  it  did 
over  a  vast  space,  and  tlip  marvellous  accuracy  of  its  detail,  and  the  profound  know- 
ledge of  geographical  subjects,  he  felt  like  that  old  woman — *'  How  young  he  must 
have  been  when  he  started!  '*    But  Mr.  Markhara  had  been  kind  enough  to  leave  a 
small  part  of  the  field  without  giving  them  the  benefit  of  his  knowledge  of  it,  and  he 
(Colonel  Church)  would  say  a  few  words  with  regard  to  it.     The  Andes,  stretching 
along  the  west  coast  of  South  America,  had  their  greatest  counterfort  towards  the 
cast,  on  the  parallel  of  Cochabtimba,  and  extending  123  leagues  eastward  from  that 
city  to  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  on  one  of  the  affluents  of  the  Mamore, 
On  the  western  escarpment  of  the  Andes  the  slope  was  nut  so  steep  as  on  the  east. 
The  clouds  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  became  drier  and  drier  until  they  reached  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Andes,  against  which   they  beat,  and  produced  very  severe 
results.    They  rushed  through  great  gorges,  at  the  base  of  which  there  were  great 
numbers  of  falls  and  rapids,  imtil  they  reached  the  plain  of  the  Beni.     He  believed 
that  vast  region  was  at  ooe  time  a  lake,  bounded  on  the  north-west  by  a  range  of 
hills  which  separated  the  Araaru-majru  from  the  Purus  river,  and  having  its  north- 
eastern boundary  on  the  Brazilian  aide.    The  northern  and  eastern  side  was  Brazjlion 
territory.     On  the  south  the  lake  must  have  met  the  great  counterfort  of  the  Andes, 
and  been  separated  by  it  from  the  head- waters  of  the  Paraguay  river.     The  lake 
must  have  been  held  in  place  on  the  north  by  the  falls  of  the  river  Madeira.    One  of 
his  reasons  for  believing  in  this  lake  was  that  the  upper  courise  of  the  Purus  river 
ran  at  a  lower  level  than  the  Amaru-mayu ;  and  if  there  were  not  a  line  of  hills 
separating  it  from  the  Purus,  the  Amaru-mayu  would  probably  have  found  its  way 
into  the  Purus,  as  a  great  many  geographers  Ixdieved  it  did.     This  vast  lake  must 
have  had  an  area  of  about  200,000  ftjuare  miles,  but  as  the  mountains  were  denuded 
it  was  filled  with  detritus,  so  that  to-day  there  was  an  enormous  plain,  composed  of 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCDSSION. 


343 


^ 


€iM  Mdimetituy  deposit,  with  scarcely  a  pebble  for  bnudredB  of  miles  ;  so  much  80« 
tliat  tho  IndiADS  in  Exaltacion  begged  their  frieodA,  wheo  they  were  going  to  the 
bonks  of  the  rirer  Mamor^^  to  bring  back  a  stone^  so  that  they  might  sec  what  a 
Bto&e  was  like.  Well,  the  lake  was  not  entirely  filled  up,  for  even  now  about 
40,000  square  miles  of  the  district  were  annually  overflowed  to  a  depth  of  from  two 
to  five  feet  for  three  months  in  the  year.  South  of  Triaiiad,  up  to  the  base  of  the 
ootmlerlisrt  of  the  Andes,  an  enormous  overflow  takes  place,  leaving  a  sedimentary 
depoait  of  gr^at  fertility,  just  as  in  the  case  of  the  Nile.  A  very  curious  thing  was 
nottoeable  there.  There  were  a  great  many  ant-bills  in  this  district ;  they  were 
little  pyramids  ranging  from  throe  to  eight  feet  in  height :  during  tho  flood  season 
the  aots  retire  ta  the  top  to  get  clear  of  the  water.  But  how  did  the  ants  know  that 
there  was  going  to  be  a  flood?  All  the  inhabitants  of  the  district  would  state  that, 
when  thera  was  going  to  be  an  extraordinary  flood,  the  ants  went  to  work,  and  put 
an  extm  storey  on  the  top  of  their  house.  The  name  of  the  Amaru-mayu  was 
derived  from  the  Quichua  language  ;  but  he  understcxxl  that  the  Takana  tribts,  five 
in  numbur,  who  lived  along  the  line  of  the  Amaru-mayu,  called  it  tho  Mayu-tata,  or 
the  **  great  father  river."  Mayu-tata  was  very  similar  to  Manitou,  in  the  North 
American  t/»nguc,  and  meant  exactly  the  .same  thing.  The  word  lata  meiining 
••  father,'*  was  also  found  in  New  Mexico  and  the  Puebla  language  of  North  America, 
•evcral  thousand  miles  away  from  the  Amaru-mayu.  He  might  be  allowed  to 
diTcrpo  a  little  and  remark  that  the  tribes  in  New  Mexico  and  the  United  States  called 
the  Apaches  and  Comanches,  had  the  t4»rmination  che  which  meant  "people,"  while 
in  aoathem  South  America  there  were  the  Tehuelche,  Pehuenchc,  and  Huelclie  tribes 
of  Fata^onia,  having  the  termination  die  which  meant  the  same  thing.  That  was 
*  Ttry  remarkable  circumstance  and  was  worthy  of  the  study  of  ethnologists.  He 
b»d  personally  sounded  the  MamonS  until  it  struck  the  falls  of  the  Madeira.  North 
M)d  east  of  Cochabomba  there  were  three  largo  brandies, — tho  Secur^,  the  Chapar^, 
or  middle  river,  and  the  Chimor^.  The  Secur^  was  examined  by  D'Orbigny,  the 
French  naturalist,  in  1846.  D'Orbigny  was  the  first  discoverer  of  the  Victoria  Reyui. 
The  Chapar6  was  explored  by  Lieutenant  Gibbon  of  the  United  States  Navy,  in 
1854.  He  (Coboel  Church)  passed  along  the  great  counterfort  of  the  Andes  and 
descended  the  mountains  to  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra.  About  ten  leagues  to  the  ea«t 
of  C<«baliamba  was  the  Rio  Grande.  That  river  was  navigable,  and  he  had  it 
cxplore<l  with  a  steam  launch  in  1B73.  They  were  able  to  ascend  to  within  tcu 
leagues  of  Santa  CVuz  de  la  Sierra.  He  himself  explored  the  Mamor6.  He  com' 
moioed  bis  soundings  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  dry  season.  The  river 
was  abcmt  1200  feet  wide  and  10  feet  deep.  It  was  a  gentle  inclined  plane  to  tho 
first  rapid  of  the  Madeira,  and  gradually  increased  to  a  depth  of  40  feet  and  a  width 
of  threc-<iuarters  of  a  mile.  It  was  a  noble  stream  running  from  two  to  three  miles 
an  boar  and  presenting  every  facility  for  splendid  navigation.  Coming  into  it  from 
ihm  eastward  wtu  the  river  Guapor6,  the  boundary-line  between  Brazil  and  Bolivia. 
Thcrt  was  a  Portuguese  fort  there,  built  in  the  last  century  out  of  stone  obtaineii  at 
the  falls  of  the  Madeira,  and  taken  up  stream  with  great  diflSculty.  At  that  time, 
owing  to  the  wars  of  the  Spaniards,  the  Portuguese,  in  order  to  communicate  with 
their  Matto  Grosso  possessions,  annually  sent  fleets  of  canoes  carrying  about  four  tons 
rach.  These  canoes  were  dragged  round  the  falls.  In  1882  he  (Colonel  Church) 
descended  the  La  Paz  river  from  tho  south  of  La  Paz  to  about  130  miles,  and  then 
embarked  on  rafts  to  go  down  to  Reyes.  Along  tho  La  Paz  river,  natnre  was  at  work 
as  in  prehistoric  times.  La  Paz  was  situated  in  a  gorge  1000  feet  below  the  plain  *>( 
Tjticaca.  As  the  city  was  approached  nothing  but  the  roofs  of  boosee  was  seoi.  One 
ihoownd  foet  represented  the  visible  thickness  of  a  vast  mass  of  drift  matter,  and  as 
tho  river  was  deBcended,  lateral  atreama  were  met  with  which  were  caused  by  the 


344 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVEH  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCUSSION. 


terrific  storms  which  sometimes  rage<l  in  the  Andes.  These  storms  were  local. 
They  swept  down  vast  masses  of  detritus,  and  damtned  up  the  main  river,  which 
rose  against  the  dam,  overflowed  it,  and  swept  the  detritus  again  across  the  stream 
from  which  it  received  it.  He  had  seen  those  beds  of  detritus  at  least  400  feet  thick 
wilh  gigantic  boulders  weighing  many  tons,  and  the  stiff  clay  of  the  furraation 
cemented  the  boulders  together  almost  perp<>ndtcnkrly.  A  story  was  told  of  one  of 
the  IncAS  of  Peru,  in  the  mythology  of  the  Indians,  which  he  thought  rivalled  any- 
thing ever  don©  by  Zens.  It  was  said  that  on©  of  the  Incas  having  had  a  quarrel 
(it  was  not  said  with  whom — perhaps  it  was  his  wife),  got  very  vexed,  and  sweeping 
his  hand  round  with  a  royal  gesture  struck  the  top  of  Mount  Chumguella,  about 
18,000  feet  high.  He  knocked  the  top  off  to  the  south>wcst,  and  there  it  stood  to 
the  present  day,  the  beautiful  cone  of  Sajama,  snow-capped*  19,000  feet  high.  Ia 
crossing  from  the  La  Paz  river  over  to  Chayanta,  across  the  mountains,  he  discovered 
that  the  mule  traffic  in  the  range  had  worn  out  the  road  to  a  depth  of  six  or  oght 
feet.  There  was  a  terrace  there  covered  with  about  five  feet  of  vegetable  earth,  and 
gijjantic  forests  on  the  top  of  it.  All  that  country  had  been  densely  populated  ia 
very  remote  times,  and  was  sometimes  terraced  right  up  to  the  snow-line,  showing 
how  precious  the  ground  was  and  the  labour  that  was  expended  upon  it  to  make  it 
useful^  The  depth  of  the  terrace  below  the  surface,  and  the  forest  trees  above  it, 
showed  that  the  population  must  have  resided  there  many  centuries  ago.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  country  which  was  the  subject  of  consideration  that  evening 
numbered  perhaps  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  millions,  mostly  living  on  the  higher 
lands  and  just  over  the  eastern  sloi^e  of  the  Andes.  The  city  of  La  Paz,  for  instance, 
had  80,000  inhabitants,  and  Cochabamba  60,000.  They  were  a  very  peculiar  people 
At  each  post-house  where  he  stopped  he  noticed  blood  on  the  walls  of  every 
bedroom,  and  blood  at  the  entrance,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  he  could  discover 
what  it  meant.  At  last  he  was  told  that  it  was  the  custom  every  year  to  let 
the  post-houses  to  different  persons,  who  immediately  whitewashed  them  and 
then  killed  a  goat  or  a  sheep  and  sprinkled  the  blood  over  the  walla  with  the 
object  of  bringing  luck  to  the  post-house  during  the  year,  and  "  giving  the 
walls  something  to  eat."  There  was  another  curious  custom.  Riding  along 
the  roads  among  the  Andea  tho  traveller  found  little  piles  of  stones  ranging 
from  six  inches  to  one  foot  high,  apparently  placed  on  one  another  with  the 
greatest  care.  It  was  very  difficult  to  ascertmn  why  that  was  done;  but  he  dis- 
covered that,  when  an  Indian  started  off  on  a  journey  with  his  mules  or  llamas 
or  jackasses,  and  expected  to  be  absent  five  or  six  days,  he  wished  to  know  whether 
everything  was  going  on  all  right  at  home,  and  so  he  formed  these  little  piles  of 
stones.  The  more  jealous  he  was,  the  more  delicate  he  made  the  piles,  and  If  when 
he  returned  home  the  pile  of  stones  bad  fallen  down,  then  good-bye  to  all  domestic 
felicity.  In  former  times  Jesuits  occupied  all  the  country  up  to  the  Madeira, 
and  even  towards  the  Madre  de  Dios.  They  crossed  the  Gran  Chaco,  and  formed 
thirteen  different  settlements  along  the  Mamori?,  the  San  Miguel,  the  Magdalena, 
and  other  tributaries,  and  succeeded  in  doing  great  and  good  work.  The  action  of 
the  Spanish  Government  in  1767  in  driving  the  Jesuits  out  of  the  country  had  almost 
blotted  those  settlements  from  the  face  of  the  earth.  In  1871  he  ascended  the  mouth 
of  the  Beni  for  a  few  miles,  but  did  not  go  up  to  the  first  fall.  It  was  a  grand  river, 
and  in  the  tainj  season  he  should  think  it  carried  more  water  than  the  Mlssiasippi. 
In  awjendirg  the  Madeira,  five  falls  were  met  with  above  the  mouth  of  the  Beni, 
and  fourteen  falls  or  rapids  below  it.  Among  the  worst  of  the  falls  was  the  Cauldron 
of  Hell ;  that  was  the  rapid  where  Colonel  Maldonado  was  wrecked,  and  he  (Colonel 
Church)  was  very  nearly  wreckwl  there.  It  was  customary  in  passing  those  falls  to 
drag  the  oinoes  over  the  rocka.    After  about  two  or  three  days  of  terrible  work 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BEM  IN  1 880-1. -J>ISCUSSI05r. 


S45 


they  got  to  the  lower  end  of  the  fulls,  a  distance  of  about  two  miles.    As  the  traveller 
■pprottched  the  fnll  he  saw  a  vast  wall  of  foam  nearly  crossing  the  river,  and  in  the 

Imidat  of  the  rapid  on  the  right  was  an  immense  whirlpool,  and  on  the  left  another. 
The  river  swelled  up  in  the  middle  for  about  the  width  of  40  or  50  feet.  He 
had  had  a  litlle  exjierience  of  his  Indian  crew  at  the  mouth  of  the  Beni,  where 
had  gone  over  a  fall,  and  stove  his  canoe  to  pieces,  and  had  to  use  threats  to 

'keep  his  Indians  in  the  canoe.  He  expected,  like  other  travellers,  to  haul  the  canoe 
overland  at  the  Cauldron  of  Hell ;  but  he  got  caught  in  a  current,  and  found  him- 
self being  hurled  against  the  wall  of  foam.     But  just  before  reaching  it  an  eddy 

I  took  the  canoe  and  carried  it  towards  the  eastern  shore,  around  the  wall  of  foam, 
and  confronting  the  whiripooU  He  showcil  his  revolver,  and  corajielled  the  captain 
of  the  canoe  to  steer  as  he  was  directed.     His  crew  consisted  of  twelve  Indians, 

^fpeakittg  five  different  tonguej*.  and  not  understanding  each  other.    They  reached 
I  lower  end  of  the  Cauldron  of  Hell  in  two  minutes,  as  near  as  he  could  judge, 
fJDHtefld  of  two  days,  and  they  did  not  upset  either.    Just  below  the  Cauldron  of 

['fielt  they  saw  forty  or  fifty  savages  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  Madeira.    Those 
RTft^es  were  always  very  good-natured  if  one  knew  how  to  treat  them  ;  but  if  the 

"traveller  did  not  know  how  to  treat  them,  he  was  very  apt  to  get  scalped  or 
murdered.  He  caused  his  canoe  to  be  steered  straight  for  the  bank.  The  savages 
sent  the  women  and  children  into  the  bushes,  got  their  bows  and  arrows  ready, 
and  had  them  bent.   He  held  out  his  hand  towards  them,  jumped  ashore,  and  walked 

^up  the  bank.  They  lowered  their  bow«  and  arrows,  shook  hands  with  him,  and  he 
ave  them  some  fish-hooks,  with  which  they  were  immensely  pleased.  In  return 
they  gave  him  large  bunches  of  bananas.  He  invited  the  chief  and  four  or  five  of 
his  men  to  go  off  to  an  island  and  dine  with  him.  It  was  the  strangest  dinner- 
I>arty  he  ever  gave.  Those  fellows  were  clothed  in  what  Mark  Twain  would  call 
**  smiles.'^  The  young  chief  was  about  thirty  years  of  age;  his  hair  was  cut  across 
tlis  forehead,  and  hung  loosely  down  his  shoulders  ;  two  capivara  teeth,  about  as  long 
I  a  man^s  finger,  were  passed  through  his  ears,  and  were  held  in  place  by  a  string 
which  came  under  his  chin.     Around  each  wrist  was  a  liand  of  block  palm  leaf,  and 

^Tound  each  ankle,  which  set  off  the  contour  of  his  finely  developed  limbs.  His  eyes 
irere  evrrywhero,  and  he  seemotl  to  see  everything.  In  the  United  Slates,  when  a 
person  a<imire<l  a  man,  the  first  thing  he  did  was  to  say,  "  Will  you  take  a  drink  V  *' 
That  was  the  first  thing  he  said  to  the  chief.  Ha  ha«l  some  rum  which  he  had 
]turchasod  at  Santa  Cruz  de  la  Sierra,  which  had  not  been  diluted.  He  poured  out 
a  glassful,  and  handed  it  to  the  savage.  The  chief  handed  it  back  to  him,  and 
intimated  that  he  ought  to  taste  it  first.  He  did  so,  and  the  chief  then  put  it  to 
his  mouth,  and  at  the  same  time  put  his  left  hand  to  his  throat,  and  as  the  liquor 
poured  down  his  throat,  burning  all  the  way,  he  said,  "  Ugh,  ugh,  ugh,"  Then  he 
stmck  himself  on  the  breast,  and  said  "  Yocar^  1 "  meaning  his  tribe.  He  know  two  or 
three  words  of  Portuguese,  and  jsaid,  "  CapitSo,"  and  very  unexpectedly  he  drew  off 
like  a  prize-fighter,  and  struck  him  (Colonel  Church)  in  the  chest,  and  said,  "  Grand 
capitdo,"     They  had  a  very  charming  dinner-party. 

The  Incas  certjiiuly  carried  their  conquests  to  the  Beni  river,  south  of  Cavinas. 
A  riad  about  25  feet  wide  could  be  traced  for  some  distance  towards  Cuzco  from  there 
and  he  had  traced  the  Inca  occupation  to  the  slope  leading  down  to  Santa  Cruz  de  la 
Sierra,  and  into  the  Argentine  Republic,  400  miles  south  of  the  Bolivian  frontier. 
The  picture-writing  around  the  Madeira  falls  was  very  strange,  and  he  had  seen  very 
similar  writing  in  Isew  Mexico,  made  by  the  Apache  Indians  or  their  pre<lecessor8. 
The  rainfall  in  this  district  was  from  84  to  90  inches  per  annum,  and  that  might  be 
Mid  to  be  the  average  rainfall  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Amazon  river.  On  the 
aoithem  side  it  was  heavier,  at  Fanama  being  126  inches.  The  health  of  the  country 
No.  VI.— June  1883.]  2  a 


w 


EXPLORATION  OP  THK  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCUSSION. 


.was  as  good  as  tliat  of  any  semi-tropical  or  tropical  country.  Of  the  tweDty-eij^htJ 
engineers  sent  out  in  one  party,  and  remaining  eighteen  months  at  the  fall  of 
Antonio,  twenty-seven  returned  in  jxjrfectly  good  health.  He  supposed  thattlh 
object  of  the  Geographical  Society  was  to  be  the  pioneers  of  progress  and  civiliwtio 
and  to  lead  the  way  to  enterprise ;  he  might  therefore  be  pardoned  if  he  said  soma 
thing  about  the  work  which  was  projected  around  the  falls  of  the  Madeira  to  opooJ 
up  a  district  1  which  was  twice  the  size  of  France,  The  work  was  originally  I 
organised  under  concessions  from  the  Governments  of  Bolivia  and  Brazil.  Th«| 
money  was  raised  and  put  ia  trust  for  it,  and  the  whole  thing  was  going  bravely 
on,  with  1200  men  at  work,  a  locom«itive  running  over  the  first  five  miles  of  line, 
40  or  50  miles  of  material  on  the  grt)uncl,  and  ocean  steamers  running  right  up  to 
the  rapids  of  the  Madeira,  ICOO  miles  from  the  sea,  when  opposition  succeeded  iu 
wrecking  the  enterprise,  and  dividing  the  money  among  the  subscribers.  That  waa  , 
in  consequence  of  the  revocation  of  the  concessions  made  by  Bolivia.  An  agent  wa 
sent  to  Bolivia,  with  instructions  to  obtain  tlie  revocation,  and  his  success  was  ^ 
only  too  great.  But  the  cuttirpriso  was  not  dead.  The  rivers  along  which  the 
whole  commerce  would  pass  pointed  straight  for  London  and  Liverpool.  To  reach 
that  beautiful  valley  by  any  other  route  would  cost  from  501.  to  60Z.  per  ton  for  all 
the  goods  taken  there;  but  when  onco  fhie  faUa  of  the  Madeira  were  avoided,  as  rich 
a  field  for  trade  and  emigration  would  be  opened  up  as  could  bo  found  anywhere  in 
South  America,  Kecentiy  he  was  in  Brazil,  where  he  was  received  most  kindly 
by  hia  Imperial  Majesty,  Don  Pedro,  whose  grand  qualities  as  a  roan  and  monarch 
needed  no  eulogy  from  him,  and  the  Emperor  told  him  ho  considered  that  enterpriso 
to  be  first  in  importance  in  his  empire.  The  largest  and  best  corps  of  engineers 
ever  organised  in  the  country  had  rec^^ntly  been  sent  to  the  falls  of  the  Madeira,  not 
only  to  fie-examine  the  whole  of  the  projected  line  of  railway,  but  to  ascend  the  river, 
and  make  a  railway  survey  from  the  head  of  navigation  to  the  capital  of  the  great 
province  of  Matto  Grosso,  On  their  return  new  coucessioos  would  be  given  to 
reorganise  the  enterpriBe.and  they  would  bo  given  under  the  guarantee  of  the  capital 
by  Brazil,  which  would  insure  the  raising  of  the  necessary  fimds.  That  would  open 
up  the  whole  of  Southern  Peru,  two-thirds  of  Bolivia,  and  the  whole  western  p»ft 
of  Brazil.  All  that  was  re([uired  was  the  extension  of  the  railway  from  Cuzco  down 
to  the  Pini-Pini,  or  to  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the  Araaru-mayu,  to  open  up  an 
iuteroceauic  route  which  for  beauty  of  scenery  and  interest  to  the  tourist  had  few- 
equals  on  the  face  of  tbe  globe^ 

Mr.  CimisTY  asked  Mr.  Markham  if  he  could  tell  what  variety  of  the  indiarubber 
tree  it  was  from  which  the  iudiarublx;r  was  obtained. 

Mr,  Clements  MAHKiiAai  replie<i  that  it  was  pretty  clearly  established  that 
the  trees  on  the  western  slojies  of  the  Andes,  whure  the  forests  rvachcd  the  Pacific 
Oceaii^  belonged  to  the  genus  CastiUoa^  and  that  all  within  the  Amazons  basia 
OIL  the  eastern  slopes  were  the  genus  Sevea. 

Mr.  Chbisty  said  that  both  those  indiarubbers  were  of  the  greatest  importance 
to  commerce.  There  were  now  many  branches  of  trade  really  languishing  for  want  of 
reliable  sources  of  indiarubber.  Many  indiarubbers  were  brought  to  this  country, 
but  it  was  found  that  they  were  collected  from  young  trees,  and  did  not  harden 
properly;  but  the  rubbers  coming  from  Brazil  were  of  extreme  importance.  He 
could  corroborate  the  remark  as  to  the  large  quantities  of  gold  found  in  the  country. 
He  had  lately  had  stripping  with  him  a  gentleman  who  had  resided  near  La  Paz, 
and  who  told  him  that  great  profits  were  obtainetl  tliere  by  dealers  in  the  gold 
collected  in  the  district. 

Sir  HiitRY  Yerney  said  ho  was  extremely  glad  to  hear  from  Mr.  Markham 
that  hia  old  friend  General  Miller  had  doue  something  for  the  increase  of  geogra- 


EXPLORATION  OF  THE  RIVER  BENI  IN  1880-1.— DISCUSSION. 


347 


phical  knowledge.  He  knew  him  in  bia  ministerial  capacity  And  as  an  administrator 
both  in  Cuzco  and  oa  the  Pacific  coast,  but  he  was  nut  aware,  until  Le  heard  it 
from  Mr.  Mark  ham,  that  ho  had  done  anything  towards  the  extension  of  geogra- 
phical knowledge.  He  was  one  of  those  "  Englishmen  abroad  "  who  did  much  to 
ennoble  the  character  of  the  English  nation  in  South  America,  No  one  contributed 
more  greatly  than  General  Miller  to  the  freedom  of  the  South  American  conn  trios 
from  the  Spanish  rule  and  to  improve  the  character  of  the  population.  He  recollccte<l 
Sir  Woodbine  Parish  at  Buenos  Ayres  tellinj;  him  what  was  corroborated  by  Colonel 
Chuncb — that  the  Incas  had  descended  the  rivers  and  had  come  down  tlie  La  Plata  ; 
that  they  had  met  Indians  from  the  Amazons,  and  that  they  had  fought  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  two  rivers.  Mr.  Clements  Markham  had  referred  to  the  diflerent 
navigators  of  the  Amjusons,  but  he  did  not  mention  that  our  own  countryman 
tiien tenant  Lister  Maw  in  1828  or  1829  obtained  permission  to  leave  his  ship  at 
Cailao^  and  came  down  the  Amaxons.  He  told  him  (Sir  Harry  Verney)  that 
4C*00  miles  from  the  raoulh  of  the  Amazons  there  was  an  enormous  basin  where  two 
large  rivers  met,  and  that  the  basin  was  large  enough  to  hold  the  whole  British 
fleet.  He  rejoiced  to  hear  what  Colonel  Church  had  tuld  them  with  regard  to  the 
probability  of  commercial  enterprise  penetrating  into  those  interesting  and  mt-st 
remarkable  districts;  and  in  the  high  character  of  the  present  Emperor  of  Brazil 
they  had  a  guarantee  that  every  opportunity  would  be  given  for  the  extension  of 
oonuuerce  and  civilis;ition  in  that  productive  region. 

The  Pbzsidest  said  it  was  sixty  years  ago  that  Sir  Harry  Yerney  rode 
from  the  eastern  coast  of  America  across  the  Andes  to  the  western  shore.  Hfr 
wished  to  ask  Colonel  Church  what  became  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  vast  level  plain 
which  he  had  spoken  of  during  the  three  or  four  months  when  it  wivs  flooded. 

Colonel  CfltTRctJ  answered  that  there  were  no  inhabitants  in  the  greater  portion  of 
it.  At  Eialtacion,  an  old  Jesuit  mission,  there  were  3000  inhabitants,  and  the  streets. 
Of  the  town  were  only  one  foot  out  of  water  in  tho  wet  season,  and  20  or  25  feet 
in  the  dry  season.  All  over  tho  district  there  were  little  rises  in  the  land  gene- 
mlly  occupied  by  all  kinds  of  waterfowl  and  animals  that  sought  shelter  there  while 
the  intermediate  ports  were  flooded.  The  line  of  the  Mamor6  river  had  a  fringe  of 
trct'S.  The  animals  were  very  numerous.  Tho  greater  portion  of  the  population  of 
olivia  were  on  the  slopes  of  the  Andes,  but  nothing  produced  in  the  M(x:os  valley 
been  of  any  use  except  for  home  consumption,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of 
nsport  over  the  passes  of  the  Andes  14,800  feet  high. 
The  PBB&unENT  said  that  in  listening  to  tho  description  given  in  Mr.  Markham'* 
interesting  paper,  and  to  Colonel  Church's  original  observations,  he  was  struck  by 
tho  recollection  of  Buckle's  remarks  about  tho  country,  in  which  he  insisted  u^wu 
liie  effect  of  natural  ca^ises  upon  the  development  of  the  human  race.  In  si^eaking 
of  S<.mih  America  he  said  that  was  a  case  where  the  prodigious  proportions  of  nature 
actually  overpowered  and  crushed  the  efforts  of  man  :  the  forests  were  so  vast, 
rhp  streams  so  broad  and  rapid,  the  mountains  so  huge,  that  nature  was  too  much 
for  him  to  contend  with ;  and  certainly  when  it  was  considered  that  tho  country 
hod  been  lur  30O  years  in  the  poeseadon  of  a  race  so  valiant  and  enterprising  us 

.the  Spanish  were  in  olden  days, of  the  continuance  of  which  qualities  there Avas  ample 

of  iu  the  story  of  Peruvian  explorations  on  the  Amaru-mayu,  it  would  seem  as  if 

be  explanation  given  by  Buckle  was  the  only  one  which  could  account  for  tho 

obscurity  of  a  land  which  in  numy  resj^eets  had  so  much  to  attract  enterprise.    At 

he  same  lime,  if  there  were  many  Colonel  Churches  and  Dr.  Heaths  in  the  world  it 

IWould  not  bo  long  before  a  great  deal  more  was  known  of  Bolivia,  and   Buckle's 

[philosojihical  views  negatived  by  the  results  of  experience. 


2  A  2 


(    348     ) 


Departure  of  the  Dutch  Arctic  Expedillonj  1883. 

TnE  sixth  voyage  of  the  Willeni  Barents  to  the  Arctic  8<?aa  is  specially 
import-ant,  because  ita  principal  ohjcct  is  to  bring  succour  to  the  Danish  ^ 
exploring  vessel  Dijiaphna^  and  to  the  steamer  Varna^  which  were  beset  in 
the  Kara  Sea,  and  of  which  nothing  has  been  hoard  since  last  September. 

The  Dutch  Arctic  Committee  bavo  shown  most  praiseworthy  con- 
tinuity of  purjjose  in  organising  the  annual  voyages.  Their  first  coneep-  , 
tion,  and  the  enthusiasm  which  led  to  the  subscription  of  suflBciont 
funds  in  1878,  were  due  to  the  energy  and  persuasive  eloquence  of  young 
KcK)lomanfl  Beynen,  whose  melancholy  death  was  so  deeply  regretted 
by  all  goographors.  His  was  a  noble  character,  and  he  was  inspired 
>vith  the  true  spirit  of  Arctic  research.  Our  accomplished  honorary 
associate,  Commodore  Jansen,  who  was  very  warmly  attached  to  young 
Beynen,  has  since  promoted  the  continuance  of  the  work,  and  has  brought 
his  varied  experience  and  great  nautical  knowledge  to  the  connsels  of 
the  Dutch  Arctic  Committee,  which  is  composed  as  follows : — Fransen 
van  de  Patte  {PTe»ident)\  Commodore  Jansen  {Yice-Premdent) ;  Baron 
Wassenaer  van  Catwyck  ;  Captain  do  Bruyne,  Captain  Bruekhuysen 
(former  commanders  of  the  Willcm  Barents)  ;  Charles  Boissevain  ;  Mr. 
Schoror  (Royal  Cmnmusioner  of  North  HoUattti)  ;  E.  N.  Rahusen. 

During  the  first  voyage,  in  1878,  when  Do  Bruyne  commanded 
the  Willem  Barents^  and  Koolomans  Beynen  was  his  second,  a  very 
complete  reconnaissanco  was  made  of  the  Spitzbergen  and  Barents 
Seas.  In  1879,  when  De  Bruyne  ^vas  again  in  command,  Franz- Josef 
Land  was  for  the  first  time  sighted  in  open  water.  The  voyages  of 
1880  and  1881  were  commanded  by  Captain  Bruekhuysen,  that  of 
1882  by  Captain  Iloffman.  When  Mr,  Leigh  Smith  retreated  from 
Franz-Josef  Laud  in  his  boats,  the  Willem  Barents  was  the  first  vessef 
he  sighted;  and  when  the  Hope  got  on  shore.  Sir  Allen  Young  re- 
ceived effective  assistance  from  the  Willem  Barents,  whose  carpenter, 
Mr.  Latjes,  worked  hard  at  the  needful  repairs.  Every  year  the 
Dutch  explorers,  by  their  numerous  observations,  their  soundings  and 
dredgings,  and  their  other  work,  have  contributed  usefully  to  the 
advancement  of  geographical  science.  At  the  same  time  a  number  of 
officers  and  men  have  been  trained  to  ice  navigation.  The  naval  officers 
are  only  allowed  to  servo  for  two  years  continuously,  so  that  there  is 
a  regular  succession  of  them  acquiring  Arctic  experience.  When  an 
oflBcer  has  served  two  years  the  Arctic  Committee  presents  him  with  a^ 
handsome  piece  of  plate,  about  eighteen  inches  high,  called  the  *'  Barents 
Cup,'*  The  figure  of  Barents  holding  the  Dutch  flag  stands  on  a 
globe,  forming  the  cover  and  bowl,  vihicli  is  engraved  with  the  old 
cliart  of  Barents,  The  M^hole  is  supported  on  silver  dolj^hins.  The 
men  who  have  served  two  years  receive  silver  tobacco-boxes  of  antique 
pattern. 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  DUTCH  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION,  1883. 


349 


For  the  voyage  of  1883  tlie  Willem  Barents  was  carefully  overhauled, 
and  found  to  be  thoroughly  seaworthy  and  aa  sound  as  ever ;  as  well 
adapted  to  encounter  the  ice  as  any  sailing  vessel  that  ever  entered  it. 
Her  commander  is  Lieutenant  Dalen,  who  was  first-lieutenant  in  the 
voyage,  a  steady  and  efl&cient  officer.  Under  him  are  three  young 
lieutenants,  who  go  out  full  of  enthusiasm  for  tbe  cause  of  geographical 
discovery.  Lieutenants  J.  and  M.  Kluit  are  twin  brothers,  and  the  other 
is  Lieutenant  Phaff,  The  surgeon  aud  naturalist  is  Dr.  Waelchli,  and 
Mr.  Grant  accompanies  his  Dutch  friends  aa  photographer,  for  the  fourth 
time.     Our  indefatigable  Associate  has  now  made  seven  voyages  to  the 

^Arctic  regions,  of  which  four  were  on  board  the  Willem  Barents.  Latjes, 
tie  carjienter,  has  been  every  voyage,  and  of  tho  crew  of  seven  men  and 
a  boy,  three  belong  to  the  Navy.  One  lad  ia  isent  out  by  the  old  town 
of  Enckhuysen  with  a  view  to  promoting  enterprise  among  the  fishermen 
of  the  Zuyder  Zee,  and  he  is  to  receive  a  prize  of  100  gulden  if  his  com- 
mander reports  well  of  him. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  last  year  a  party  was  sent  out,  under 
the  auspices  of  Professor  Buys  Ballot,  of  Utrecht,  to  form  a  Dutch  mete- 

-Orological  Bt4ition  at  Port  Dickson,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei.    The 

P expedition  was  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Lamie,  of  the  Dutch  Navy, 
who  hod  formerly  served  in  tho  Willem  Barents^  but  the  steamer  Fama, 

I  which  took  out  the  observers  and  their  stores  and  apparatus,  was  com- 
aded  by  a  German.  The  steamer  Luisa,  under  Captain  Burmelater,  was 
Iso  chartered  to  take  out  some  of  the  materials  for  the  observatory.  The 
Luisa  appears  to  have  parted  company  near  the  Kara  Strait,  and  reported 
that  the  Varna  and  tho  Danish  explitring  vessel  Dijmphna^  commanded  Viy 

iliieutenant  Hovgaard,  were  beset  in  tho  ice  near  the  middle  of  tlie  Kara 
8ea,  and  in  sight  of  each  other.  They  were  last  seen  by  tho  Luisa  on 
September  26th,  1882.     Much  anxiety  is  felt  for  tho  safety  of  the  Varna, 

kas  she  was  not  fortified  for  ice  navigation,  aud  was  ver}'  deep  in  tho 

'water. 

The  possibility  of  succouring  these  vessels  has  received  much  atten- 
tion from  the  Arctic  Committee.  The  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Dalen 
are  that  tho  WiUem  Barents  is  to  proceed  to  A^ardoe,  and  then  to  make 
the  best  of  her  way  to  Waigatz,  and  attempt  to  enter  the  Kara  Sea  by 
the  southern  strait.  If  the  strait  is  closed  she  is  to  go  to  Archangel  to 
see  whether  there  is  any  news  nf  the  misfiing  ships,  and  to  communicate 
with  the  Committee.  She  is  then  to  return  to  the  Kara  Strait,  and  to 
search  the  east  coast  of  Waigatz  and  Novaya  Zemlya  for  boats  or  men. 

ilf  nothing  is  found,  aud  there  is  no  news,  she  is  to  attempt  to  reach 
Port  Dickson.     lu  the  event  of  favourable  tidings,  and  of  news  Iteing 

^received  that  the  Bijmphna  and  Varna  are  safe,  an  examination  of  tho 
Kara  Sea  is  to  be  undertaken,  and  collections  are  to  bo  made  there,  as  in 
the  Barents  Sea  during  former  voyages. 

The  Wilkm  Bareuts  was  ready  for  sea,  and  was  to  sail  on  Saturday, 


330 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 


tliD  5th  of  May.  In  the  previous  evening  the  Arctic  Committee  gave  a 
farewell  dinner  to  tlio  officers.  Commodoro  Jausou  presided,  and  Mr. 
Leigh  Smith  and  Mr.  Clements  Markhani  (Secretary  H,  G.  S.)  were 
among  the  guoste.  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  described  his  feelings  of  relief  and 
joy  when  he  first  sighted  tho  Wilfem  Barents  at  the  end  of  his  long  and 
perilous  retreat  from  Franz-Josef  Land,  and»  in  niomorj'  of  the  event, 
he  presented  the  mesa  of  the  Dutch  Arctic  vessel  with  two  silver  cu[«. 
Mr.  Markham,  in  tho  name  of  tho  President  and  Council  of  tlio  Koyal 
Oeogrnphical  Society,  expressed  warm  sjinpathy  and  admiration  for  tho 
perseverance  and  energy  of  the  Dutch  Committee,  and  for  the  skill  and 
gallantry  of  the  officers  and  crew  of  the  Willem  Barents.  Next  morning 
the  little  vessel  left  Amsterdam,  and  proceeded  down  the  canal  amidst 
great  enthusiasm.  Tho  burgomaster  stood  on  tho  quay,  suiTonnded  by 
a  crowd  of  people  whoso  hearty  cheers  mingled  -vs-ith  tho  strains  of  a 
military  band.  Several  members  of  the  Committee^  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and 
Mr.  Clements  Markham,  continued  on  board  the  Willem  Barents  as  far  as 
Ij-niuyden,  where  Sir  Allen  Young,  who  had  been  detained,  also  came 
vn  boai*d.  Two  racing-boats,  manned  by  young  students  of  Utrecht 
and  Leyden,  pulled  all  the  way,  one  on  each  side,  and  every  vessel  in 
the  canal  kept  up  the  cheering  with  hearty  goodwill.  At  Ij-muyden 
the  guests  were  transferred  on  board  a  steamer  commanded  by  Captain 
de  Bi-upio,  the  first  commander  of  tho  WiUcm  Barents.  The  two  vessels 
went  out  of  harbour  togotlior^  and,  aftGr  proceeding  with  the  exploring 
vessel  for  a  short  distaiioe,  the  steamer  parteil  company  with  throe 
ringing  cheers.  The  sea  was  smooth,  and  the  Willem  Barents  made  sail 
to  a  fresh  breeze.  She  commenced  her  adventurous  voyage,  in  whicli 
the  cause  of  humanity  is  linked  with  that  of  science,  under  the  happiest 
auspices. 


GEOaEAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Progress  in  North  Borneo.— The  diary  of  Mr.  L.  B.  von  Donop  from 
July  30tht  1B82,  to  January  17tb  last,  recently  published  in  the  Ceylon 
Observer^  contains  many  details  of  interest  as  to  tho  topography  and 
products  of  the  central  and  western  parte  of  tho  new  North  Borneo 
territory  of  Sabah,  though  this  observer's  explorations  were  confined  to 
the  region  already  broadly  sketched  by  tho  late  Captain  'NVitti.  His 
first  journey  was  from  Kudat  in  Marudu  Bay»  in  the  extreme  north  of 
the  territoiy,  to  Ahai  on  the  west  coast,  from  which  an  excursion  was 
made  to  tho  country  watered  by  tho  Jampassuk.  This  consists  of  undu- 
lating hills  covered  in  many  instances  with  fodder-grass  as  high  as  a 
man's  head ;  the  soil  appeared  very  rich,  coflfeo  and  i>addy  being  grown, 
and  a  growth  of  fino  timber-trees  round  the  chiefs  house  presented  the 
appearance  i)f  an  English  park.  From  this  point  Mr.  von  Donop  struck 
south  towards  Kinabalu,  passing  through  a  very  hilly  but  cultivated 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 


^51 


I 


country  to  Tambutnan  and  Eian*  A  projected  journey  to  Kinabalu  from 
tlio  latter  place  had  to  be  abandoned,  but  the  ascent  of  a  neighbouring 
ridge  4700  feet  high  afforded  a  good  view  of  the  intervtining  thickly- 
wooded  ranges  and  vallcyB.  Arrived  at  Tuan,  range  after  range  was 
£een,  mostly  with  jungle  on  the  top  ridges  but  cultivated  beneath,  and 
«fter  croflsing  the  Yaggo  river  the  rich  and  promising  Danoe  plain  'vvas 
gOftched,  different  aspects  of  Kinabalu  being  observed  as  the  route 
workoil  gradually  round  it.  Mr.  von  Donop  finally  reached  the  Kinarum 
Tiver  after  passing  various  villages  and  finding  a  suocession  of  ranges 
and  well-watered  valleys,  and  he  then  struck  north  to  Bongon,  returning 
to  Kudat  by  boat.  In  September  he  again  proceeded  to  Kinarum  to  join 
the  late  Mr.  Frank  Hatton,  and  after  excursions  to  Bongon  and  variuus 
points  on  the  Mamda  river,  once  more  made  for  Kian,  spending  some 
^ays  in  the  Sissio  country,  on  the  northern  side  of  Kinabalu.  This, 
•with  the  Tambuyukan  ranges  on  the  east,  was  found  to  comprise  many 
tfaooBocd  acres,  varying  in  elevation  from  700  feet  to  4000  feet,  and  of  a 
very  promising  nature.  A  partial  ascent  of  Tambuyukan  was  made, 
and  the  land  found  available  for  cocoa,  pepper,  and  Liberian  coffee  on 
the  lower  elevations,  and  tea,  chinchona,  «fcc.,  on  the  higher.  In  the 
beginning  of  October,  Mr.  von  Donop  started  from  Kinarum  eastward 
for  the  Sugnt  country,  returning  to  Kudat  northwards  by  the  Benkoka. 
From  his  account  and  other  notices  of  North  B<,»nieo,  it  appears  that 
a  considerable  part  of  the  available  land  in  Sandakan  Bay  has  alroa^ly 
lieen  taken  up  for  agricultural  purposes,  Mr.  E.  Major's  company  having 
taken  50,0OC>  acres,  Mr.  A.  Major  40,000  acres,  Mr.  do  Lisaa  20,000  acres, 
Mr.  Lo  Yuon-Yuo's  yhanghai  company  10,000  acres,  Messrs.  Wilson  and 
Smith,  tobacco-planters  from  Deli,  10,000  acres,  &c.  Buildings  also  are 
being  rapidly  raised^  the  families  of  settlers  who  have  arrived  seeming 
to  fijid  the  climate  healthy ;  and  the  rate  of  progress  may  be  estimated 
from  the  fact  that  an  official  newspaper  was  started  in  April  under  the 
name  of  The  Naiih  Bonwa  Herald, 

The  Republic  of  Ecuador.— In  June  1881,  Colonel  G.  E.  Churcli,then 
at  Quito,  received  instructions  from  the  United  States  Government  to 
supply  a  report  on  the  geography,  commerce,  and  general  condition  of 
Ecuador,  which  he  submitted  in  the  following  September,  his  informa- 
tion being  derived  almost  entirely  from  original  sources  and  personal 
observation.  This  Beport,  for  a  copy  of  which  wo  are  indebted  to  bim, 
forms  Executive  Document  No.  (59,  47th  Congress,  2Dd  Sesfiion,  ordered 
to  be  printed  February'  27th  last ;  and  is  important  as  a  recent  account  of 
the  Bepublic  by  a  competent  and  keen  observer.  In  discussing  its 
geographical  limits,  Colonel  Church  points  out  that  all  the  boundary 
lines  are  untraced,  except  that  defined  by  the  Pacific,  so  that  the  exact 
area  of  the  country  is  unknown,  though  it  may  be  estimated  at  about 
150,000  geographical  square  miles ;  the  quoted  ancient  limits,  all  that 
exist  in  fact,  are  deficient  in  mathematical  data,  and  leave  **  as  fertile  a 


352 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


field  for  discussion  as  any  Spanish- American  could  wish."  The  area,  i 
estimated  by  Colonel  Church,  will  be  observed  to  differ  materially  from 
that  given  by  Behm  and  Wagner,  which  is  643,295  square  kilometres,  or 
187,800  geographical  square  miles  (248,380  statute  square  miles). 

Colonel  Church,  in  sketching  broadly  the  geography  and  topography 
of  Ecuador^  divides  it  into  threo  great  sections  by  the  double  line  of  the 
Andes,  composed  of  the  Pacific  coast  and  the  inland  ranges,  which  mn 
nearly  parallel  from  40  to  60  miles  apart.  The  latter  throws  out 
numerous  immense  and  long  spurs  ou  its  eastern  face,  between  which 
rise  great  affluents  of  the  Amazons,  whilst  the  former  possesses  only 
short  and  precipitcus  spurs,  contributing  to  the  river  systems  of  Western 
Ecuador.  Between  the  two  ranges  lies  a  plateau,  7000  feet  high  on 
the  Colombian  border,  rising  gradually  to  9500  feet  at  Quito,  and  more 
or  less  maintaining  that  elevation  to  the  Peruvian  frontier,  where  it 
descends  to  7000  feet.  On  this  plateau  are  short  and  broken  ridges, 
sometimes  almost  connecting  the  two  ranges  from  east  to  west,  and 
cutting  it  into  eight  subdivisions,  themselves  more  or  less  scored  by 
cailons,  small  rivers,  &c.^  and  possessing  but  a  small  area  of  stunted 
forest  lands.  Enumerating  the  mighty  peaks  of  both  ranges,  of  which 
ten  are  still  more  or  less  volcanic.  Colonel  Church  remarks  that,  as  on© 
rides  through  the  river  gorges,  geological  sections  are  exposed,  hundreds 
of  feet  in  thickness,  of  volcanic  rock  and  ash  alternating  \vith  thin 
caps  of  earth,  showing  what  a  perfect  furnace  of  nature  Ecuador  must 
have  been.  The  erupted  ash  has,  however,  fertilising  qualities,  and  is 
Boon  covered  with  vegetation,  resulting  in  a  productive  layer  of  humus. 
Very  different  from  this  comparatively  unproductive  and  arid  inter- 
Andean  section,  are  those  both  to  its  east  and  west.  The  former,  or 
Amazons  section,  is  completely  forest-covered ;  the  dry  winds  which 
leave  the  African  coast  and  become  thoroughly  saturated  during  their 
transit  of  the  Atlantic,  reach  their  acme  of  precipitation  as  they  approach 
the  numerous  snowy  peaks  of  Ecuador,  and  give  birth  to  a  dense  and 
rank  growth  of  vegetation  on  the  eastern  foot-hills  of  the  Andes.  Ou 
the  west,  also,  which  receives  the  rain-clouds  of  the  Pacific,  most  of  the 
lands  are  forost-covored,  the  trees  becoming  larger  and  taller  the  nearer 
the  base  of  the  ridgo  of  the  Andes  is  approached,  until  in  the  gorges  of 
the  western  spurs  the  very  hot-houses  of  nature  are  found,  steaming 
under  a  tropical  sun,  and  forcing  into  existence  a  prodigal  vegetation, 
where  each  plant  has  to  wage  war  for  existence  against  its  fellows. 
This  Pacific  section  must  have  been  at  no  very  remote  geological  period 
an  archipelago,  the  islands  of  which  were  the  outposts  of  tho  Andes, 
presenting  hills  and  slaty  ridges  rising  from  50  to  3000  feet  above  the 
ocean,  and  having  a  certain  parallelism  with  the  Andean  chain.  The 
slow  uplifting  of  the  coaat-lino  and  the  denudation  of  tho  cordillcra 
have  filled  up  the  intervals  between  these  former  islands  to  such  au 
elevation  that  the  floods  of  the  rainy  season  do  not  cover  the  low  landfi 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


9S8 


except  in  the  Guayaquil  valley,  where  also  the  filling -up  process 
threatens  rapidly  to  destroy  the  utility  of  Guayaquil  itself  as  a  port. 

A  rapid  review  of  the  river  eystetu  shows  that  at  least  25i)0  miles 
are  suitable  for  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Amazons  side,  and  probably 
as  much  more  for  boats;  whilst  on  the  western  side  there  are  some 
^^^  miles. 

^^^HM  to  climate,  the  rainy  season  is  usually  from  December  to  June, 

^rne  remaining  months  being  called  dry ;  on  the  Amazons  slope  it  rains 

all  the  year  round.     As  regards  the  influence  of  climate  on  man,  there 

are  vast  healthy  districts  in  the  river  valleys  of  the  Amazons  region, 

whilst  those  of  the  Pacific  shore  arc  commonly  full  of  disease.     Any 

special  disorders  appear  to  be  chiefly  due  there  tu  the  lack  of  sanitary 

measures,  and  in  the  west  and  north-western  parts  to  the  abuse  of  sweets 

as  food,  which  results  in  a  curious  and  frightful  intestinal  complaint. 

in,  The  country  is,  and  must  apparently  remain,  almost  wholly  agricul- 

^Ktnral,  the  Pacific  coast  and  river  valleys  of  both  east  and  west  yielding 

^■generous  crops  of  cacao,  sugar-cane,  cotton,  rice,  coffee,  tobacco,  and 

» tropical  fruits,  whilst  the  inter-Andean  plateau  produces  all  the  cereals 
and  vegetables  incident  to  a  temperate  and  even  cold  climate  (though 
of  inferior  qualitj'),  and  in  favoured  localities  sugar-can©  and  maize. 
Jfo  hope  of  its  ever  being  an  exporter  of  cereals  is  held  out ;  and  cattle 
do  not  thrive  in  the  Amazons  section— chiefly,  it  is  believed,  from  the 
i^iramense   number  of   bats  which    bleed  or   otherwise  irritate  them, 
^BChinchona  bark,  for  which  the  world  was  first  indebted  to  the  province 
^mcf  Loja,  is  now  being  so  rapidly  cut  and  sent  out  of  the  country  without 
^kiny  attempt  at  planting  for  the  future,  that  the  supply  must  soon  cease  ; 
^Bud  Colonel  Church  does  not  hesitate  to  rooord  the  opinion  that  the 
^^liighest  official  sanction  is  given  to  this  destructive  measure  for  private 
emolument.     In  mineral  wealth,  Ecuador  is  probably  one  of  the  pc»ore«t 
of  the  South  American  States,  containing  on  the  western  slopes  only  a 
few  (and  not  rich)  alluvial  deposits  of  gold,  which  are  more  abundant  in 
the  valleys  of  the  Amazons  section.     The  provinces  of  Aznay  and  Loja 
are  the  only  ones  giving  indications  of  valuable  mines  warranting  the 
^^n vestment  of  capital. 

^m      The  population  is  estimated  as  1,000,000  at  the  most,  exclusive  of 
^pavage  tribes,  divided  as  follows :  White,  100,000 ;  mixed,  300,000 ;  pure 
Kindian,  000,000.     (Behm  and  Wagner  give  916,033  from  official  returns 
in  1878.)     The  pure  Indians  are  Quichua,  more  genial  in  expression 
than  those  of  Bolivia  and  Peru,  but  with  no  apparent  elements  for  the 
re-creation  of  a  manly  nation.    Their  language  is  not  so  pure  as  the 
^■^livian  Quichua,  being  split  into  several  dialects  more  or  less  mixed 
^^eith  Spanish.     The  evil  qualities  of  the  mixed  races  are  briefly  con- 
demned as  the  source  of  the  degradation  of  the  country. 
^H      After  lucidly  discussing  the  internal  administration  of  the  Republic, 
^Bpolonel  Church  points  out  the  importance  of  the  Pulumayo  andCaqueta 


354 


OBITUARY. 


affluenta  of  the  AraazonB  as  trad©  routes,  aud  enters  at  some  length  tipau 
tlio  possibilities  of  creating  internal  oomrannioations,  of  which  scaroely 
any  now  exist.  Personally  interesteil  in  the  construction  of  fature 
railroads,  he  is  nevertheless  of  opinion  that  a  thorough  system  of  first- 
class  mule  routes  would  bo  the  best  for  Ecuador  for  the  next  ten  or 
twenty  years. 

The  Keport  contains  a  short  notice  of  tho  GaMpagoe  Islands,  which 
were  annexed  in  1832»  and  colonised  through  the  energy'  of  General 
YiUaniil»  who  was  subsequently  thwarted  in  every  way  by  his  Govern- 
ment.  Tho  islands  are  now  practically  abandoned,  and  have  relapsed 
into  their  old  condition,  save  for  the  increase  of  Villamirs  cattle.  The 
occupation  by  Ecuador  is  considcrod  not  to  exist  to  a  sufficient  extent  to 
entitle  it  to  the  respect  of  other  nations. 

In  spite   of  the  numerous   and   great  natural   advantages   of  the 

Eepublic,  Colonel  Church  is  compelled  to  admit  that  hie  report  ifl  not 

,  iavourable ;  and  he  summarises  his  reasons  in  the  sentence  :— "  Until 

'  the  patriotic  element  unites  to  strengthen  municipal  power,  finances,  aud 

privileges,  Ecuador  will  have  neither  jirosperity  and  republicanism  at 

home,  nor  honour  abroad." 


James  Toung,  of  Kelly,— 'ihc  deatli  of  tliis  much-respected  member  of  1 
^  B«ciety  is  recorded  as  having  occurred  on  the  13th  of  May  at  his  residence,  Kelly, on 
tho  Firth  of  Clyde,  in  the  aeventy-llrst  year  of  his  age.  He  was  widely  known  for  hia 
discoveries  in  practical  chemistry,  imrticularly  with  regard  to  the  extraction  of  a  light- 
oil/or  paraffin,  from  coal  products,  for  illmninating  purj^iosea,  and  for  the  new  industry 
he  thereupon  founded  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Glasgow.  In  the  annals  of  geography 
bis  name  will  always  occupy  an  honoured  place  through  its  coDoection  with  that  of 
Dr.  Livingstouo,  whose  schemes  of  exptoration  and  pliilanthropy  he  8U]>ported  with  his 
steady  sympathy  mid  pecuniary  aid.  When,  in  1871,  after  two  and  a  half  yeara  had 
elapsed  without  direct  tidings  of  Livingstone,  then  wandering  in  tho  remote  interior, 
our  Society  decided  on  organising  an  cxiicdition  for  his  search  and  relief,  and  the 
funds  collected  were  sufficient  only  for  one  such  expedition  from  the  eastern  side  <rf 
Africa,  he  made  an  offer  through  bis  friend  the  Rev,  Horace  Waller  to  our  President, 
Sir  Henry  ItawUnaon,  lo  equip  at  hia  own  sole  cost,  a  similar  expedition  from  the 
west  coast,  it  being  thought  probable  that  Livingstone  on  finding  that  the  Lualaha 
i  was  not,  as  he  had  supposed,  connected  with  the  Nile,  but  trended  towards  the  Congo, 
'Vould  try  to  find  his  way  to  the  Atlantic  along  the  course  of  that  river.  The 
expedition  was  intrusted  to  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Grandy,  R.if.,  who  aft«r 
failing,  as  others  have  done  since,  to  force  his  way  by  tlie  laud  route  from  San  Salvador, 
and  hitting  at  last  on  the  only  practicable  entry  into  the  interior  along  the  banki 
of  the  CJongo,  was  recalled  on  news  of  Livingstone's  death  reacliing  England,  The 
expenses  of  the  expedition  amounted  to  3041/.  But  ho  was  a  generous  bcnefector 
also  in  his  own  special  domain  of  chemistry.  He  endowed  Anderson's  College, 
where  he  received  his  first  instruction  in  chemistry  by  attending  as  a  youth  the 
lectures  of  Professor  Graham,  with  a  chair  of  practical  chemistry,  and  j)resente<i 
hia  native  city  of  Ghisgow  with  a  bronze  statue  of  his  teacher,  for  whose  memory 
he  entertained  a  lasting  regard. 


(    356    ) 


CORRESPONDENOE. 

An  Excursion  in  the  Interior  of  New  Guinea, 

PonT  aioBESBY,  New  Gcista,  Februan/  TtA,  1883. 

Dbar  Sim, — ^We  have  recently  returned  from  aa  interestiug  journey  into  tho 

tltenor  and  visit  to  the  llouna  falls.     This  is  not  quite  new  ground,  but  the  fidlfi 

ave  been  ouly  vi»ited  ty  a  few»  and  I  do  not  think  any  account  of  them  has  been 

»lished.     The  jooraey  was  new  in  one  respect :  Mrs.  Lawes  made  one  of  the 

ty,  atxl  yca&  thua  the  first  white  lidy  to  tread  the  "  unbeaten  tracks "  of  New 

Dioen. 

Our  object  was  twofold  :  firat,  to  see  the  llouna  falls,  and  secondly,  to  visit  the 

riot  of  Tabure  and  Soj^'ere  at  the  back  of  the  Astrolabe  Mountains.     Our 

•consisted  of  Mrs.  Lawes,  Mr.  Chalmers,  and  self,  with  about  twooty  natives  as 

&0. 

Our  fii>t  day's  journey  was  on  horse  to  the  village  of  Rabadomu,  about  15  miles 

>m  here  in  an  easterly  direction.    We  slept  there,  and  started  on  foot  at  daybreak 

t  morning.     The  mountain  we  had  to  ascend  was  right  before  us,  oovere*!  with  a 

;ht  mantle  of  cloud.     But  before  we  reached  its  base  we  had  to  ascend  and  descend 

ly   times — Bometimes  as  high  as  300  feet  and  then  down  again  to  sea-level. 

sun  was  high  by  the  time  we  reached  a  pretty  Uttlo  creek  at  the  foot  of  tlw 

iDtain  proper.     We  rested  here  a  while  and  then  prepared  for  the  ascent.    Mrs. 

>we8  bad  as  guide  a&d  companion  a  trusty  Koitapu  native,  who  was  very  proud  of 

office. 

We  had  three  aneroids  with  us,  one  of  the  J\,  G.  S.  and  two  smaller  of  Steward^s. 

loeau  of  readings  at  base  of  mountain  was  G08.    The  first  part  of  the  ascent 

a  narrow  but  shady  jiatb,  and  this  brought  us  to  within  700  feet  of  the  top. 

i«  last  piece  was  a  sheer  asctnt  up  the  perpendicuhr  face  of  the  mountain.     From 

low  it  seemed  impossible  that  any  i>ath  could  be  made  up  it,  but  we  found  a 

m  zigzag  track  which  brought  us  by  a  step  at  a  time  to  Ihe  top.     Mrs.  Lawes 

among  the  first  at  the  summit.     The  mean  of  our  aneroids  gave  2600  feet,  so 

that  the  actual  height  would  be  1H92  feet.     The  boiling-point  thennomoter  read 

211 '6^  at  the  bottom,  and  207*6°  at  the  top,  with  temperature  at  S0°,  which  would 

make  the  height  of  mountain  2320  feet. 

The  native  name  of  the  mountain  is  Veriata.     We  had  a  grand  view  from  the 
C02>.    Aa  far  as  the  eye  could  see  was  a  panorama  of  sea  and  ooast,  hill  and  valley, 
imcraected  by  many  winding  rivers  and  streams.    At  our  feet  ran  the  Laloke,  and 
I     «t  oor  right  hand  could  be  plainly  heard  the  roar  of  Kouna,  although  hidden  from 
^Httr  view. 

^^K  Our  track  lay  in  an  easterly  direction  for  about  four  miles,  when  we  reached  oue 
^^B  the  Tabuie  viUagci;,  where,  until  quite  recently,  we  had  a  mission  teacher. 
B^^  house  was  in  good  preservation,  and  we  made  it  uur  headquarters  while 
inland. 

On  the  following  day  we  visited  the  falls.  They  are  not  far  from  tho  teacher's 
house.  An  hour  brought  us  quite  to  them  at  a  leisurely  pace.  Long  before  that  the 
river  opened  up.  This  valley  of  the  Laloke  forms  one  of  the  finest  -i-iews  I  have  seen 
ia  New  Guinea.  On  this,  tho  eastern  side,  the  ground  slopes  away  to  the  river,  covered 
with  rugged  boulders  and  stunted  vegetation.  On  the  western  side  the  cliOfs  rise 
almost  perjiendicularly  to  a  height  of  300  feet  in  the  highest  part,  the  summit  and 
eTery  crack  or  crevice  being  covered  with  vegetation.  At  the  feet  of  these  the  river 
winds  over  a  rocky,  uneven  bed,  strewn  with  huge  boulders  forming  a  series  of 
coacadca.  Standing  as  we  did  on  the  way  down,  looking  up  the  valley  northward,  we 


856 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


could  see  the  course  of  tlie  river  for  two  or  three  miles.    It  tokea  a  sudden  bend  at  lie 
falls,  80  tbat*you  do  not  nee  the  river  above  and  below  thera  from  the  same  place. 

You  see  nothing  of  the  falls  until  you  are  just  over  tlieni»  aod  then  to  look  down 
is  enough  to  make  any  but  a  native  dizzy.  The  stream  is  broken  just  above  the  fall 
by  a  huge  boulder  lying  at  an  angle  of  alwut  4S%  and  about  SO  feet  in  length  on  iht 
upper  face.  Between  thia  and  the  falls  is  »  small  rocky  island  covered  vrith  creepiiu^H 
palma  and  tropical  vegetation.  Just  at  the  break  were  several  bare  rocks  in  mid^H 
stream,  on  which  some  of  our  native  boys  stood  with  folded  arms  looking  down  iato 
the  abyss  below. 

The  river  was  low,  but  in  the  rainy  season  all  these  rocks,  now  bare,  are  coTered. 
The  principal  fall  is  on  the  eastern  side,  the  greatest  body  of  water  falls  ovcrbeR^ 
but  about  100  feet  lower  down  it  breaks  on  a  flat  perpendicular  rock.  On  the  wotcm 
side  there  waa  leaa  water,  hut  it  is  a  sheer  fall  right  to  the  bottom,  where  there  j 
ft  terrible  cauldron.  We  had  no  diCSculty  in  getting  right  down  to  the  stream,  i 
standing  in  the  shallow  water  at  the  side  looking  over  the  fall  itself.  There  i 
small  friendly  tree  there  which  one  can  hold  on  to  for  safety.  Here  we  read 
aneroids  and  Ijoiled  a  spirit-lamp  for  boiling-point.  The  former  gave  respectiv 
1150  and  1350,  and  the  boiling-point  thermometer  209-8°. 

"We  inquired  of  the  natives  if  tbere  waa  any  road  to  the  bottom ;   they  laid 
it  was  possible  but  very  diflicult.     But  the  offer  of  a  tomahawk  induced  one  to  act 
aa  guide,  and  Mr.  Chalmers  went  with  him.     They  reached  the  bottom  and  nude 
their  way  to  the  base  of  the  falls.      Here  the  aneroids  registered.  900  and  110 
This  makes  the  height  of  fall  exactly  250  feet  by  both  aneroids.     The  boiling-p 
thermometer  read  2 10  ■4".    The  temperature  waa  80**;  wilh  the  correction  for  thii 
I  make  the  difference  between  top  and  bottom  347  feet.    We  were  very  careful 
markiig  the  exact  boiling-point,     I  suppose  the  river  at  the  head  of  the  falls  to  1 
about  50  yards  wide,  and  below  it  is  a  series  of  small  waterfalls,  de8c«Dding  vei 
rapidly.      In  the  wet  season  there  must  be  an  enormous  rush  of  water  down  this 
narrow  bed.     We  saw  from  the  debris  at  the  top  of  some  of  the  rocks  how  high  it 
sometimes  rises. 

After  a  few  days'  rest  at  Tabure  we  went  on  to  the  district  of  Sogere,  about 
18  or  20  miles  in  an  east  by  northerly  direction.  Our  track  waa  over  a  level 
country,  and  certainly  well  watered.  We  had  to  cross  the  Laloke  an  hour  after 
starting.  It  is  often  unfordable  here,  but  we  were  fortuuate  in  finding  it  low.  The 
current  was  very  strong,  and  the  bed  of  the  river  very  uneven,  but  two  or  three 
joining  hands,  we  got  across  without  any  mishap. 

Soon  after  crossing  the  river  we  came  to  the  solitary  house  of  ono  of  the  Sogere 
chiefs.     He  installed  himself  aa  our  guide  and  spokesman,  and  waa  very  osefnl, 
although  he  had  a  great  weakness  for  making  siK-ecbes  on  every  and  no  occasioD. 
Our  road  lay  through  forest  country,  and  for  mile  after  mile  we  met  no  one  and  saw 
no  house  or  garden.     The  trees  were  grand,  especially  some  pandanus  and  banya 
beautiful  mosaea  were  on  the  damp  ground,  with  a  network  of  creepers  and  an  « 
sional  orchid  overhead,  while  the  wild  strawberries  and  raspberries  reminded 
our  distant  home. 

Birds  of  paradiso  {Para/fism  ragjimia)  were  to  be  heard  all  the  time«  and  now 
and  then  the  clear  note  of  the  bell  bird  rung  through  the  woods,  so  like  a  bell  as  to 
puzzle  even  familiar  ears.  The  spell,  however,  of  all  this  waa  often  rudely  broken 
by  a  muddy  river  or  stream  to  cross.  This  was  generally  done  by  a  New  Guinea 
bridge,  viz.  a  fallen  troe.  The  round,  smooth,  slippery  trunk  was  good  enough  bridge 
for  the  natives  with  their  bare  feet,  but  awkward  enough  for  us  in  boots.  It  did 
make  one  feel  any  steadier  to  know  tbr.t  crocodiles  were  plentiful  in  many  of  tb 
alreauis.    We  were  bitten,  however,  by  uotliing  worse  than  leeches,  and  these  can 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


857 


>  end  of  amoflement.  The  weeds  and  grass  by  the  roadside  in  damp  places  swarmed 
irith  them,  and  they  fastened  on  to  any  bare  legs  they  could  touch. 

The  district  of  Sogere,  like  all  the  other  icilaad  ones  we  know,  consists  of  small 
fcattered  villages^  rarely  more  than  eight  or  ton  houses  in  a  village,  and  often  only 
three  or  four.  The  village  at  which  we  camped  consisted  of  seven  houses,  and 
ihrw  tree  hofosea,  which  are  really  forls  or  castles.  One  w  as  120  feet  high.  One  ot 
the  natives  went  up  with  an  armful  of  spears  and  threw  tbem  down  at  an  imaginary 
enemy.  "When  they  have  reasiDu  to  expect  an  enemy  they  take  up  a  supply  of  big 
stonea.  These  houses  command  the  whole  village,  and  from  their  height  could  not 
eftsily  be  taken. 

On  our  return  we  found  every  smal!  ditch  swollen  into  a  muddy  river,  and  when 
we  got  to  the  Laloke  it  had  risen  so  much  as  to  be  unfordable  at  the  place  we 
eioumd  in  coming.    We  had  to  go  some  miles  higher  up,  and  here  the  swollen 

biDg  waters  looked  anything  bat  inviting,  but  after  our  oratorical  friend  had 
)  a  speech  to  the  river,  and  rated  it  for  its  bad  taste  in  treating  visitors,  and  a 
bite  lady  too,  so  badly,  we  managed  to  wade  across  all  right. 

During  our  stay  at  Tabure  we  made  a  second  visit  to  the  falls  when  the  river  was 
irhat  higher  than  on  the  first  occasion. 

We  saw  a  good  deal  of  the  natives  ;  they  all  look  upon  us  as  their  friends.  They 
are  a  good  specimen  of  the  average  Koiarian.  They  are  somewhat  darker  in  colour 
and  tmaller  in  stature  than  the  coast  tribes.  They  are  more  hairy  too.  It  is  no 
onoocnmon  thing  to  see  a  nmn  with  beard  and  moustache,  lliey  are  remarkably 
si.  Mr.  Goldie,  a  botanical  and  naturalist  collector,  had  his  camp  for  some  months 

this  district,  and  although  there  were  knives,  hatchets,  &c.,  continually  lying 

out,  nothing  at  all  was  stolen.    Like  al!  the  other  tribes,  they  are  exceedingly  super- 

ltioiu»  bat  their  superHtilion  takes  a  {peculiar  and  most  UBfortunate  form.    When  a 

1  is  III  and  dies,  he  is  supposed  to  be  bewitched  and  not  diseased.  Almost  all  the 
tribes  have  this  belief,  but  the  Koiarians  go  farther  than  others.  They  always  know 
wboae  spirit  has  bewitched  their  friend,  and  the  tribe  to  whom  the  spirit  belongs  has  to 
pay  for  it.  The  deceased  would  not  be  able  to  rest  until  one  of  that  tribe  is  killed 
to  pay  for  his  death.  Whenever  a  man  of  the  least  consequence  dies  there  is  always 
ghting.    Tribes  that  have  been  on  the  most  friendly  terms  become  enemies  on  this 

ount  alone.  We  succeeded  in  preventing  fighting  during  our  visit  in  the  case  of 
E  tribe  who  had  lost  a  man  through  some  bad  spirit  belonging  to  the  Sogere  tribe. 

Their  mode  of  getting  fire  is  peculiar.  They  get  a  dry  stick  of  pithy  wood  and  split 
it  a  little  way.  In  the  cloft  they  put  a  piece  of  wood  or  a  stone  to  keep  it  open,  then 
putting  a  little  rubbish  as  tinder  under  the  sjUit  part  of  the  stick,  they  stand  on 
the  other  end  and  pass  a  strip  of  rattan  cane  or  bamboo  under  the  cleft,  drawing 
it  rapidly  up  and  down,  when  it  soon  begins  to  smoke,  and  a  spark  a{){)car8 
between  the  fork  of  the  stick,  which  with  a  little  careful  manipulation  sets  fire  to 
the  tinder  and  a  flame  is  soon  obtained.  It  seems  to  me  easier  and  quicker  than  the 
common  way  of  getting  fire  with  two  sticks. 

Food  is  very  plentiful  in  these  mountain  regions.  The  gardens,  made  on  the 
stdea  of  breakneck  gullies,  are  very  productive.  They  grow  splendid  sugar-cane,  a 
great  variety  of  bananas,  and  plenty  of  taro  and  yams.  Breadfruit  trees  are 
plentiful,  but  the  fruit  is  small  and  full  of  8ee<ls— very  poor  after  the  South  Sea 
Islands  breadfruit. 

The  natives  have  a  great  craving  for  salt;  no  present  is  more  acceptable  than  a 
acrew  of  salt,  they  prefer  it  to  sugar.  They  eat  it  alone,  but  are  especially  fond  of 
ewing  it  with  green  ginger. 

We  returned  home  after  spending  ten  days  in  the  mountains.    We  bad  walked 

lit  00  miles  and  ridden  30. 


35^. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


I  am  sorry  that  I  could  not  fix  the  exact  positions  of  the  mountain  aod  finite,  but 
our  time  failed  us;  the  pocket  obrouometer  has  stopped,  and  after  I  Lad  ratodi 
watch  it  also  stojiped.    All  I  could  do  under  the  circttmstaucea  was  to  get  i 
bearingB  with  tho  priBmatic  corapai^s.     I  inclose  them  and  ulso  a  tracing  sh 
■what  we  suppose  to  be  about  the  position  of  the  places  we  visited, 

I  iun,  yours  sincerely. 
The  Secretary  E.  Geogr.  Society.  W,^  G;  LAtl 


PBOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGIS^  SOCIETIES 

Geograpbical  Society  of  Paris.— April  20th,  1883,  first  General  Mee^l 
the  year :  M.  Feudinand  de  Le8bep8  in  the  Chair. — The  Meeting  was  chiiiliy  occcpi^J 
with  the  distribution  of  the  prizes  awarded  by  the  Society.  On  the  plattbrm,  b^dii 
the  members  of  the  Bureau,  were  the  Mexican  Minister  at  Paris,  and  a  member  cf  tb 
United  States  Embassy,  representing  M.*Morton,  who  was  prevented  from  ottendiag 
Delegates  were  sent  also  by  the  Ministers  of  tho  Army,  Navy,  and  Public  InBtrtio 
tion  respectively.^Tlie  Chairman  o])ened  the  meeting  with  a  speech,   in  ui 
ho  recalled  the  fact  that  it  was  now  fifty-four  years  since  the  Sc>ciety  made 
first  awards.      Since  that  time   153  prizes  had  been  awarded,  of  which  86 
been  maile  to  Frenclimen,  and  among  these  M.  do  Lesseps  had  the  jJeasure  of  beta 
able  to  reckon  himself.    On  the  present  occasion  three  of  the  awards  were  confa 
upon  Frenchmen,  and  for  works  having  Africa  as  their  object.    Speaking  of  Afri 
M.  de  Lesse[)s  stated  that  he  had  only  just  returned  from  that  oontineut,  and 
he  had  visited  it  in  order  to  consider  on  the  spot  the  project  of  an  inland  aeo^in  th 
Sahara.    He  was  convinced  that  the  Bcheme  waa  practicable,  as  he  had  stated  in  the 
report  which  ho  had  presented,  since  his  return,  to  the  Academy  of  Sciences,  an 
that  most  happy  results  would  follow  from  the  ci-ealion  of  this  inland  sea. — M.  WiUia 
HUber,  General  Secretary  of  the  Commission  of  Prizes,  tlien  read  hia  report,  aft 
which  the  me<lals1were  distributed  as  follows:— one  to  Commander  Gallieni,  for  1 
mission  to  Sego-Sikoro  (1880-1) ;   another  to  Commander  Derrien  fcjr  his  top 
graphical  mission  to  Senegal  (ISfc'O-l) ;  a  third  to  M.  Charles  Hiilx^r  f«.tr  his  jourac 
in  Arabia  (1679-82)  j  the  "Roquetto**  prize  to  M.  F.  Sohwatka,  the  American 
lieutenant,  for  his  voyage  to  King  William's  Land ;  and  the  "  Erhard  "  prize  to 
M.  A,  D.  Langlois,  for  his  maps  of  the  department  of  Oran.     Up  to  the  present 
time  it  had  been  the  practice  of  the  Society,  iu  making  its  awards,  to  recognise 
a  mission  in  the  peraon  of  ita  chief,  at   the  saino  time  giving  due  praise  to 
hia  colleagues  in  tho  report ;  hence  it  has  been  the  commander  only   who  has 
received  and  kept  the  medal.     In  future  the  Society  will  give  to  each  member  of 
the  mission  a  bronze  medal,  bearing  a  special  inscription,  which  will  be  a  repro- 
duction of  tho  gold  medal  awarded  to  the  mission  in  tho  person  of  its  commande 
Speaking  of  M.  Chamay's  recent  journey,  and  of  his  archa^ulugical  discoveries 
Yucatan,  the  Secretary  stated  that  the  Commission  regretted  its  inability  to  il« 
nise  their  value  by  a  medal  this  year,  the  results  of  the  journey  not  being  as ; 
embodied  in  a  printed  work  (which  is  a  sine  fjtui  noti.  condition,  aoconliDg  to  I 
Society's  rules).    M.  Charnay's  journey  had  been  largely  supported  by  M. 
Lorillard  (of  New  York),  a  descendant  of  a  French  family,  which  took  refuge  ; 
Holland  in  consequence  of  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  and  then  emigrate 
to  America,     From  the  rejwrt  of  M.  Hiiber  it  appt^ared  that  tliis  generous  pftta 
of  many  scientific  enterprises  and  charitable  works  is  now  instituting  a  prize  of  10 
(25,000  francs)  to  the  man  who  will  be  the  first  to  decipher  the  inscriptions  engi»T 
on  the  monuments  which  M.Charnay  has  brought  from  Yucatan. — The  reports  uj 


PROCEEDINGS  OP  FOREION  SOCIETIES. 


359 


which  had  merited  prizes  were  thoa  read  by  the  various  secretaries, 
aveyrier,  H.  de  BJzemont  (reqaested  by  M.  Maunoir),  Comto  do  la 
Turenoe,  Schiader,  and  Dunan. — On  behalf  of  the  Gallieui  mission  it  was  stated 
that  its  geographical  work  may  be  divided  into  four  eections.  (i.)  The  ex- 
ploration of  the  district  lying  between  DafulaW  and  Kita.  (ii.)  The  cxamina- 
tioo  of  the  course  of  the  Baula,  from  the  ford  of  Tukoto  on  the  Bakhoy  to 
Sambabugu,  and  also  of  the  country  which  extends  from  this  latter  j>oint  to  Marena. 
(ill)  The  survey  of  Birgo  and  of  Manding,  together  with  the  exploration  of  the  route 
from  Kita  to  Niagassola  and  Nafadia.  (iv.)  The  exploration  of  the  country  from 
Kita  by  the  BelMugu  and  Bammakn  to  Sego.  The  map  prepared  by  the  mission 
just  completes  that  of  Western  Soudan,  by  Mage  (18G8).  The  last  part  of  the  geo- 
graphical work  of  M.  Gallieui  and  hia  colleagues  consisted  in  preparing  accurately  a 
ap  of  the  district  which  lies  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Niger,  between  the  ford  of 
nrella  and  Nango,  a  region  which  Mage's  account  has  alncutly  made  sufficiently 
irell  known. — The  object  of  the  Derrieu  mission  was  to  execute  a  reconnaissance  of 
the  Upper  Senegal  and  the  Upper  Niger,  and  to  find  a  simple  and  economical  route 
for  a  railway  between  the  two  rivers.  From  the  observations  which  the  mission  has 
made,  it  appears  that  there  is  no  serious  obstacle  to  the  execution  of  this  great  enter- 
pci0&  From  Kayes  to  Bafulab^  the  survey  of  the  land  has  already  been  made ; 
fjmn  thii  latter  point  to  Kita,  instead  of  skirting  the  Bakhoy,  whoso  banks  are  very 
nnevent  it  is  proposed  to  follow  the  route  traversed  by  the  mission  on  its  return,  and 
along  which,  for  a  distance  of  135  miles  (217  kilometres),  only  one  hill  is  encoun- 
tered. Moreover,  the  ground  there  is  protected  from  inundations,  and  the  inhabitants 
are  peaceable.  Between  Kita  and  Bammakn  M.  Uerrien,  in  acc<»rdance  with  infor- 
BDatioQ  obtained  from  the  natives,  recommends  the  route  which  follows  the  Talley  of 
ho  Bakhoy,  then  that  of  the  Kumakhana  river,  in  order  to  descend  to  the  Niger  by 
I  hill  of  Sanamorila  and  the  valley  of  the  Araarakoba.  By  this  route  the  railway 
ill  command  the  great  market  of  Keniera,  near  the  gold-mines  of  Bur^ ;  it  will  pftsft 
gh  the  friendly  peoples  of  Manding,  and  it  will  follow  the  caravan  route.  A 
>  showing  the  journeys  uf  MM.  Derrien  and  Gallieni  in  the  kingdom  of  Sego  bad 
I  passed  ronnd  at  the  commencement  of  the  meeting. — Another  map,  which  was 
alao  supplied  to  the  audience,  Bhowe<i  the  travels  of  M,  Charles  Iliiber  in  Northern 
Arabia  and  m  the  Syrian  desert  (1870-82).  The  route  followed  by  the  traveller  is 
not  altogether  new.  M.  Wallin  (1848),  Mr,  Palgrave  (18G2),  M.  Guamian  (18G4), 
M.  Doughty  (1876-6),  M.  and  Mme,  Blunt  (1878-9),  had  already  made  journeys 
more  or  less  long  in  the  country,  and  trodden  almost  all  the  ground  which 
M.  HiibcT  must  have  traversed.  But  geography  occupied  but  a  secondary  place 
in  their  thoughts,  and  it  would  Live  been  useless,  says  M.  Duvoyrier,  for  any 
one  to  try  and  disentangle  from  their  accounts  either  the  great  fundamental  features 
•^f  the  physical  geography  of  the  North  of  Arabia,  or  to  obtain  any  data,  however 
tcmty,  from  which  to  prepare  a  map  of  it.  M.  Hiiber's  jourrioy  just  supplies  these 
deficiencies.  It  throws  an  altogether  new  light  upon  our  knowledge  of  the  geography 
of  Northern  Arabia,  of  its  past  civilisation,  and  of  the  present  habits  of  the  represen- 
tatives of  the  Wahnbite  ixjwor. — After  the  reading  of  all  the  reports  and  the  distri- 
bution of  the  meJals,  M.  Bouquet  de  la  Grj'e  (Hydrographical  Engineer  and  Vice- 
President  of  the  Central  Commission)  gave  an  account  of  his  recent  voyage  tt»  Mexico, 
^Where  he  went  to  make  olxservalions  upon  the  transit  of  Venus,  a  phenomenon  which 
i  not  bo  seen  again  either  during  this  century  or  the  next ;  four  generations  will 
ave  to  pass  away  before  it  occurs  again.  It  was  at  Puebla  that  the  French  mission 
died  the  phenomenon.  M.  B.  de  la  Grye  described  this  town,  the  installation  of 
I  French  observations  at  Fort  Lorota,  and  the  astronomical  observations  made  on 
1  6th  of  December,  188ii,  which  were  a  complete  success.    At  other  stations  the 


860 


PROCEEDIJTGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


astronomers  wore  not  bo  fortunate. — In  concluaiou,  the  reaults  of  the  ballot  far  t^ 
election  of  the  Bureau  of  the  Society  (1883-4)  were  announced :  President^  M.  ( 
LesBopp,    re-elected;    Vice-Presidents,     M,    Maltebmti    and   M.    H.    Duveyrier}! 
Hecretary,   M.   D.  Charnay.      (The  scrutineers  were    M.   L,  Vigncs    and  M.  PJ 
Mirabautl) 

May  4th,  1883 :  M.  Astoise  d'Abbadie  (of  the  Institute)  in  the  ChwrJ 

— M.  do  Bernardi&res,  naval  lieutenant,  who  has  been  to  Chili  on  a  scientific  niiaioa 
(the  observation  of  the  transit  of  Venus)  had  written  from  Buenos  Ayres,  on  hii 
arrival  there,  to  the  efifect  that  two  of  the  men  who  formed  part  of  the  Crevaox  , 
mission,  \\z.  the  boatswaio,  a  Frenchman  nameii  Haurat^  and  an  Argentine  sailor  < 
the  name  of  Blanco,  are  still  alive  and  prisoners  among  Ihc  Indians.     This  news  1 
been  forthwith  communicated  to  the  French  press.    M.  de  Bcrnardi^res  further  statetl 
in  his  letter  that  he  has  been  commissioned  by  Dr.  Estan.  Zeballos,  President  of  th 
Argentine  Geographical  Institute,  to  send  to  the  Society  the  originals  of  some  ao 
nomical  observationa  taken  by  Crevaux,  particularly  affecting   the   geograp 
positions  of  Salta  and  Jujiiy,  the  capitals  of  two  provinces  of  the  same  names  in  tbf  J 
Argentine  Republic.     These  positions  had  not  previously  been  scientifically  deler-I 
mined.     In  a  letter  dated  March  21st»  Dr.  Zeliallos  states  that  a  fresh  expedition  of  »l 
military  character,  and  organised  by  the  Argentine  Government,  had  jast  started  foi 
the  Pilcomayo.     It  is  commanded  by  Colonel   Sola,  commander-in-chief  on  tb 
frontiers  of  the  Grand  Chaco»  and  is  comiiosod  of  200  men  from  the  regular  annyJ 
Its  object  is  to  surround  the  Indians  in  their  forest  retreats  and  to  obtain  the  releaaei 
of  Hanrat  and  Blanco.     On  the  way  Colonel  Sola  will  endeavour  to  solve  the  gto»  J 
graphical  problem  concerning  the  existence  of  a  new  river  in  the  Chaco,  the  Teyo,  a 
river  running  parallel  with   the  Pilcomayo.  —  M.  Alph.  Milnc-Edwanis  (of  tbfi 
Institute),  Professor  of  the  Natural  llistory  Museum,  who  is  going  to  undertake  a 
fresh  campaign  in  the  interests  of  submarine  zoology,  no  longer  in  the  TmvnilUur  ^ 
but  in  a  vessel  named  Le  Talisman,  announced  the  lat  of  June  as  the  date 
his  departure.    Ho  will  siil  along  the  westera  coast  of  Africa  as  far  aa  the  Cap 
Verd  Islands,  then  he  will  explore  the  Sargassus  Sea,  and  will  finish  with  a  staj 
at  the  Azores  Islands. — Dr.  Colin,  naval  physician,  writes  on  board  La  Oxronth ' 
that  ho  has  embarked  on  the  mission,  with   which  he  is  chai^d,  to  Bur^,  to 
ITasBulu  and  to  the  other  auriferous  countries  which  surround  the  Upper  Nigwr.J 
He  will  there  collect  as  much  scientific  and  geographical  information  as  possible.! 
In  two  months  he  will  be  on  the  Niger,  and  will  take  advantage  of  the  rainy  ■ 
season  to  make  excursions  into  the  neighbouring  countries.    He  will  return  next 
April  twelvemonth* — A  letter  dated  from  Uitscha,  March  3rd,  was  received  from 
M.   Robert  Flegel,   the  envoy  of  the   Gernxan   African  Society,  who  for  several. 
years  has  been  travelling  in  the   district  of  the  Lower  Niger,  stating   that  h«l 
had   just  discovered  the  sources  of  the  Benno  and  of  the  Logona,  a  tributary  ^ 
of  the  Shary ;  he  promises  to  give  more  complete  details  later  on. — M.  Gabriel 
Marcel,   of  the  Map  and  Plan   Department   (National    Library),   sent   a    work  J 
which    ho    has    ju.st   published    in    th©   'Scientific    Review';    the   title  of  thiji 
historico-geographical  work  is  *  Nos  droits  sur  Madagascar.'    The  book  is  curiona j 
inasmuch  as  it  reproduces  a  manuscript  map  which  has  escaped  the  notice  of  M.j 
Grandidier,  in  spite  ofthe  care  which  the  latter  has  exercised  in  collecting  all  the 
documents  relating  to  this  great  island.     Tho  map  Rhow3  all  that  jKtrtion  of  th« 
island  subjected  to  French  arms  and  influence  by  Flacourt,  Mondevergue,  &c.— j 
M.  P.  Schjelderup  Nissen,  lieutenant  of  the  Norwegian  Staff,  transmitted  a  map  of' 
Norway  in  four  sheets,  scale  1 :  800,CO0,  prepared  by  the  aid  of  journeys  and  informa- 
tion obtained  from  local  authorities,  the  districts  repre«ented  not  having  been  as  yet 
the  object  of  topographical  surveys.    Tho  same  correspondeut  sends  also  the  second 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


861 


edition  of  a  map  of  Sonth  Norway  on  the  same  scale  in  two  sheets. — General  Mich. 
Yeoukofir  sent  to  the  Bureau  a  copy  of  a  work  of  his  ou  the  physico-geographical 
omditioDS  of  the  existence  and  development  of  the  Russian  people  (published  in  a 
Roasian  review),  and  at  the  aarae  time  a  very  interesting  account  of  the  Exhibition 
recently  opened  at  the  Wint4?r  Talftce  in  St.  Petersburg.  The  Exhibition  contains 
the  works  in  connection  with  astronomy,  geodesy,  topography,  and  geography  under- 
taken and  executed  in  Russia  during  the  year  1882,  and  not  only  in  Russia  but  also 
by  Russians  in  Turkey,  Persia,  Independent  Turkistan,  Dzungaria,  Mongolia,  and 
Manchuria.  M.  VenukofF  enumerates  the  documents  which  appear  to  him  to  offer 
the  most  interest  in  this  collection.  His  communication  will  bo  inserted  in  extenno 
in  the  report  of  the  meetings. — The  same  will  be  done  in  the  case  of  a  letter,  sent  l>y 
H.  Romanet  du  Caillaud  upon  the  administraiive  divisions  of  Tong-king,  and  on  the 
difficulty  of  accurately  computing  its  population.     The  author  has  drawn  his  infor- 

.mation  eipecially  from  *  Le  Correo  Sino-annamita,'  a  work  compiled  with  the  aid  of 
Btters  of  Spanish  Dominican  missionaries.  Upon  this  authority  the  population  of 
Tong-king  would  be  more  than  18  millions  (Central  Tong-king,  4  millions ;  East  Tong- 

[iing,  5  millions  ;  West  Tong-king,  7,800,000 1  South  Tong-king,  2  millions).  The 
J  coixespondent  sends  some  information  on  that  part  of  the  West  Coast  of  Africa, 
;  the  oocuiation  of  which  the  Portuguese,  i.  e.  the  newspapers,  have  recently 
protested,  viz.  Ponta-Negra,  of  which  M.  de  Brazza  and  his  com[>aTry  are  announced 
as  having  taken  possesion.  This  IcK'ality  is  G8  miles  (110  kilometres)  distant 
from  Malemba,  the  extreme  fiointof  the  "  theoretical "  jxmeesions  of  the  Portuguese. 
Th«  writer  refers  to  the  map  of  the  coast  of  Lt»ango  and  of  the  Congo,  published  by 
Pirc  Duparcjuet  in  1875,  in  which  are  indicated  with  their  nationalities  the  different 
European  factories  of  the  coast.  Lastly  a  third  communication  from  M.  Romanet 
da  Caillaud  consists  of  an  account  of  the  relations  of  the  Portuguese  and  the  French, 

^which,  he  says,  ought  to  be  more  intimat*?.     Indo-China  being  full  nf  the  fame  of  tho 
glories  of  Portugal,  our  corresjwndent  asks  the  Society  to  fall  in  with  a  wish  that  he 
I  formed,  viz.  that  Franco  should  give  the  names  of  Portugue.se  travellers  either  to 
ous  points  of  Annam  still  unnamed,  or  to  the  streets  of  Saigon,  or  to  French 
at  Hanoi,  at  Haiphong,  &c.    This  desire  will  l>e  transmitted  to  tho 
atral  Commission. — A  noto  was  received  from  M.  Scvertsof  on  th«  ancient  routes 

[•CToas  Pamir,  together  with  a  manuscript  map.* — Tho  French  charg6  d'affaires  at 
Stockholm  and  the  French  Minister  at  Copenliaigen  sent  some  information  on  the 
frcfih  voyage  which  M.  Nordenskiiild  is  undertaking  to  Greenland.     At  the  same 

Ltliue  a  Danish  ex|ieditioQ  is  to  visit  the  eastern  coast  and  pre])arc  a  map  of  it.     It 
riU  also  study  the  extent  and  movements  of  the  great  masses  of  ice  in  these  latitudes. 
I  latter  expedition  will  remain  several  years  in  the  country. — It  was  announced  that 

^  a  lociety  has  been  organised  for  a  trip  to  Norway  and  Spitzbergen  in  1883,  the  cost  of 
tickets  being  100?.  sterling.    The  company  transmitted  an  Anglo-French  prosi>ectU8 

,  announcing  that  the  departure  will  lake  place  from  Havre  at  the  beginning  of  June. 

]**  Proceeding  thence  direct  to  Christiania  .  .  .  then  along  the  west  coast  of  Norway, 

I  etopping  esiiecially  at  Cai>e  North  and  Hammerfest.  From  Hammerfest  the 
Bteamer  will  proceed  as  far  as  Spitzbergen,  passing  by  Bear  Island.'' — The  General 
Secretary  then  stated  that  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London  had  jiist 
awmrded  the  Back  Prize  for  1883  to  M.  PAbW  Petitot,  the  missionary  who  has 

I  lived  for  so  many  years  in  the  midst  of  the  ice  of  Canada. — M.  Letaille,  who  has 

1  returned  from  Tunis,  presented  to  the  Society  some  photographs,  a  map,  with  three 

'  ilineraricji,  as  well  as  the  inscriptions  which  he  has  discovered,  and  regarding  which 
he  will  shortly  speak  before  the  Society.— M.  Emile  Guiard,  brother  of  one  of  tho 


♦  See  the  quarterly  Butldin  of  the  Society, 
No.  Yl^-Juint  1883.] 


2   B 


3(J2 


rR(X:E£01XGS  OF  FOUEIGN  SCKJIETIES. 


victim.'*  of  the  Flatli.'i's  luissutD,  stated  that  in  bis  opinion  the  m&ugutiilioo  of  a 
uiouument  recently  erected  at  Uargla  to  the  memory  of  the  anfortnnate  trarellvn 
was  not  6ul>iciently  imposing,  and  he  went  on  to  compare  to  this,  an  ahno&t  frivAid 
certmony,  the  respect  paid  by  the  Englisli  to  the  remains  of  Gill  and  Palmer,  whjcli 
wore  iateiTtxl  in  Wesi  train  titer  Abbey,  their  murderers  l>ein*;  apprehended  scArcelf 
two  m4>nths  after  the  crime.  He  demanded  the  punishment  of  the  mnixicrers  of  tli« 
Flatters  mission,  who  are  known  at  Insalah. — In  ootichision,  M.  Moseutlml,  Cousiil  f.r 
the  Orange  Mivcr  Republic  at  raris,  rea4  a  paper  «in  the  laland  of  Cuba.* 

Oeograplucal  Society  of  Stockholm.— Febniarv-  lGth,l883:  the  I'rosidcm, 
Dr.  O.  SIoNTKLius,  in"  the  Chair. — The  Meeting;  accepted  Baron  Xonien^lcIoW** 
proiKwiition  to  confer  the  \'cm  medal  on  ilr.  Stanley,  llija  distinction,  which  tie 
{Society  may  confer  on  men  who  are  distinppiishetl  for  their  gco^raplucal  researches, 
and  which  has  been  instituted  in  houour  of  the  Vega  .ex}X!dition,  has  bnly  been 
twice  Itefore  awank'd,  viz.  in  1881  to  Baron  Nordenskiold,  and  in  1882  to  Capti!n 
I'alaader. — Dr.  H.  8tolj«  read  a  paper  on  the  ethnography  of  the  Pacific  islaoAi. 
He  selecteil  on  this  occasion  Eistcr  Island,  referring  to  its  poMtion,  distovt^, 
and  the  foruHT  viaits  of  C'fx>k,  La  Peyronse,  and  Kotzebue^  and  the  m or?  recent 
]oi:rncy.s  in  18C8,  of  PalmtTj  and  in  1S77  of  Pinart.  The  most  rerOarkaWe 
recent  discovery  in  thw  island  was  a  number  of  rou;.;h  stone  figures,  repfcseutiug 
human  heada  and  bust*  without  arm*  r>r  leg-i.  Two  were  found  in  the  Ixjttom  of  a 
volcanic  crater  and  some  on  the  coast.  Some  bore  inscriptions,  which  had,  however, 
(lOt  yet  been  interprottKl.  Tlie  naltvcs  referred  them  to  prehistoric  inhabitants. 
Other  remains  such  as  fee])ulture  vaults  and  carved  Woodeti  lioatds,  be8p6kc  a  higli 
])re-historic  culture.  The  speaker  tirged  a  ch>se  examiimtion  of  these  relic«.— 
Dr.  H.  Hjiirne  next  gave  an  account  of  fho  Itusslans  as  a  colonising  people.  Having 
trac^  the  outlines  uf  tho  Russian  cmiqncstB  hi  the  East,  lie  pointcul  otlt  thft 
remarkable  fact,  tliat  the  Sclav e,  when  assimilating^  with  the  races  of  Silieria, 
graduaDy  becomes  Siberian  both  in  reIij:ion  and  habitii.  The  most  remark.-iblo 
statement  by  tho  si^eakur  was,  howerver,  that  since  the  emancipation  ihe  llu«ilaa 
pejvsants  have  shown  a  distinct  tendency  to  v.-auder  easttvards,  which  ti  c  Oovrrn- 
meat  do  everything  to  couutemct. 

March  16th,  1883;  the  Pres^iilent,  Dr,  0.  "Monteuus,  in  inc  Ciimr.— 

The  first  who  addressotl  the  Meeting  was  Buron  v.  Dubi'n,  who  stated  tliat,  in  cqd- 

.ec(]u?ace  of  M.  Hogozlnsky's  joamey  to  Africii  not  having;  taken  place,  one  of  tho 
[memWrs  of  the  etfiedition,  the  Swedish  traveller.  Captain  T.  C.  Eeu,  had  joiacci  i 
[Mr.  Stanley  on  the  Congo.     He  would,  whilst  in  Africa,  make  collwtions  for  the 
IJational  Museum.— Herr  R.  Arpi  nest  gave  an  account  .if  Iceland,  chiefly  ctlioc^  \ 
graphical,  as  studied  during  his  journeys  there  in  1881  and  1882. — Captain  A.  Fries  ^ 
exhibited  and  duscribwi  tho  utensils  nsed  in  South  and  Central  America  f..ir  driokinjj'^ 
♦*  mate,**  while  lastly  Consul  Elfdng  gave  an  account  of  Mr.  O'Donovan's  journey  to  1 
Mcrv. — At  this  meeting  a  model  of  a  croup  of  fishing  Chukchcs  was  exhibited  which  I 
»rc  inionded  for  the  International  Fisheries  Exhibition  in  London,     It  c<.tisist«  uf  4 1 
man  and  a  woman,  the  former  standing,  with  an  ice  "  hill "  in  his  b.and,  snd  th<; 
latter  bitting,  with  a  rod  in  her  hand.    Both  dresses  and  weaj»ons  were  brought  home 
hi  tho  Vej'i,  with  other  articles.     The  facts  of  tho  figures  were  sculpturetl  by  Herr 
llyllengren,  and  jjainted  by  Miss  Westfelt,  and  the  whole  arranged  by  Mi&s  I^lmnn  ' 
from  a  drawing  in  Nordcnskiold's  *  "Voyage  of  the  VeQa.* 

April  24th,  1833 :  the  Presi<lcnt,  Dr.  0.  MoxxEr.ius,  in  the  Chair.-;  I 

King  Oscar,  t:  0  Crown  I'lincc,  and  the  Duke  of  Vestergijt'aud  wvrc  presvut  at  Iha  J 


•  See  U)e  qnart&rly  Bulletin  of  the  Societyj 


PROCEEDIKOS  OP  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


I  was  held  on  the  anniversary  of  the  return  of  the  Vega.    The  meeting 
Tthe  Chairman  banding  the  Ve(fa  medal,  conferred  on  Mr.  Stanley,  to  the 
JnttatJ  States  Minister  in  Stockholm,  Mr.  Stevens,  who  thanked  him  for  the  honour 
^conferred  upon  his  countryman, — Baron  Nordenskiiild  next  gave  an  account  of  his 
intended  expedition  to  Oreenknd.    The  speaker  said  tlmt  soon  after  the  return  of  the 
Vegn  a  nunour  went  forth,  that  a  new  Arctic  expedition  was  about  to  bo  equipped, 
\  and   that   the  ohject  of  the  journey   was   this   time  the   New   Siherian   Islands. 
At  that  time  it  was  really  his  intention  to  have  visited  these  islands  where  so 
many  interesting  prohlems  still  remain  to  be  solved,  taking  his  expedition  l>y  way 
^Lof  the  river  Lena.     In  the  meantime  circurastances,  however,  caused  him  to  abandon 
^V this  plan,  .is  several  of  the  exiiloraticns  be  had  in  view  had  been  effected  by  the  unfor- 
^Btunate  Jeannette  expedition,  while,  by  the  search-expeditions  desi^itched  to  relieve 
^BDo  Long,  the  delta  of  the  Lena  had  also  been  explored  in  every  direction,  and 
^■arventuaUy  it  was  decided  to  establitih  a  Russian  observatory  at  the  mouth  of  this 
^Kiiver  as  part  of  the  international  programme  of  observation.     It  therefore  appeared 
^■to  him  that  the  time  for  an  expedition  to  the  New  Siberian  Islands  was  not  suitable, 
^■and  he  turned  his  attention  instead  to  another  polar  land,  where  just  as  important 
^^  problems  remained  to  be  solved,  viz.  Grcenlxind.     Greenland  was  discovered  nine 
hundred  years  ago,  viz.  in  983,  by  the  Norwegian  Erik  Rode,  and  ita  discovery 
■       caused  at  the  time  great  excitement  in  North  Europe.    Several  colonies  were  foundel 
^B  there,  which  flourished  so  well,  that  they  numbered  about  300  farms  or  "  (Jaarde,** 
"  of  which  200  were  in  the  so-called  "  Oaterbygd,"  and  100  in  the  "  Vesterbygd.*'    By 
degrees  the  voyages  of  the  Norwegians  to  Greenland  ceased,  probably  owing  to 
the  circumstance  that  the  trade  there  became  a  Goverament  monopoly,  and  to  the 
*'  black  peat,"  which  devastated  Norway.    At  last  the  colonies  were  forgotten  in 
the  mother-country,  and  it  was  only  through  Columbus'  discovery  that  attention 
WIS  recalled  to  them.    The  attempts  which  were  mode  to  reach  Greenland,  were, 
however,  long  nnsuccessfuh    The  south-east  coast,  where  the  Ostcrbygd  was  believed 
to  have  stood,  being  nearest  Iceland,  was  found  to  be  so  closely  girt  by  drift-ice 
that  DO  vessel  could  reach  it,  and  this  has  in  fact  been  the  case  ever  since,  although, 
of  course,   vessels  have  reached  the  coast   further  to  the  north-      During   the 
attempts  which    were  made    in  the  sixteenth   century  to   find    the   north-weat 
passage,  it  was  however  discovered  that  the  west  coast  was  easily  reached ;  but 
colonies  were  not  founded  here  until  the  eighteenth  century,  when  the  Norwegian, 
Hans  Egede,  with  the  object  of  finding  and  converting  his  old  countrymen,  settled 
among  the  Esquimaux  on  the  west  coast.    At  present  there  are  a  number  of  Danish 
colonies  on  this  coast  from  Cape  Farewell  to  LTpemivik,  lat.  73°.    Through  the 
researches  of  Danish  and  Swedish  savans  the  west  coast  of  Greenland  had  become 
one  of  the  best  known  countries  in  the  Arctic  regions.    This  was,  however,  fiar  from 
being  the  case  with  the  east  coast  and  the  whole  of  the  interior.    It  has  been 
assumed  by  travellers  that  the  extensive  glaciers  which  are  encountered  along  the 
eoost,  and  which  form  an  ice  plateau  3000  to  6000  feet  high,  from  which  ice  is  pre- 
clpitited  through  certain  fiords  into  the  sea,  cover  the  entire  country.     The  example 
of  Greenland  has  been  advanced  as  a  proof  that  a  port  of  the  globe  was  during  the 
last  geological  age  covered  with  ice.     But  during  hts  journey  along  the  coast  of 
Siberia,  where  the  climate  is  far  more  severe  than  in  Greenland,  and  also  from  sub- 
sequent researches,  ho  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  provided  there  do  not  exist 
causes  in  the  interior  for  the  formation  of  ice,  of  which  we  are  not  aware,  it  was  a 
physical  impossibility  that  Greenland  could  be  entirely  covered  with  ice.  His  reasons 
for  this  assumption  were  that  all  winds  which  reach  Greenland  must  have  passed  the 
se*  axHi  thus  be  moist.    Now,  when  such  a  wind  passes  a  mountain  ridge,  it  assumes 
tha  properties  of  the  Fohn  wind,  i.e.  after  having  passed  the  mountains  it  is  dry  and 

•  2  B  2 


I 


I 


864  PROCEEDINGS  OP  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

warm.  If  the  orographical  condition  of  Greenland  now  was  such  that  the  country 
rose  gradually  from  the  coast  on  all  sides  this  theory  would  be  untenable,  but  as  it 
is  improbable  that  this  country  is  entirely  different  from  all  others  on  the  globe,  and 
that  valleys  and  plains  must  exist  here  in  the  interior,  it  is  evident  that  all  windn 
reaching  the  interior  must  have  the  properties  of  the  Fohn  wind,  he.  are  dry  and 
somewhat  warm.  The  conditions  for  a  "  permanent "  ice  formation  he  belieyed  could 
therefore  not  exist  in  Greenland,  and  the  interior  was  most  probably  free  from  ice. 
The  solution  of  this  problem  was  the  chief  object  of  the  expedition,  while  it  would 
no  doubt  also  be  fruitful  as  regards  geography  and  geology.  More  than  one  chapter 
in  the  chief  works  on  geology  would  have  to  be  re- written  if  it  should  be  proved 
that  his  assumption  was  true.  There  were  besides  many  other  important  scientific 
problems  to  be  solved  by  this  expedition.  Of  these  there  was  the  sea  between 
Beikiavik  and  Cape  Farewell,  which  is  very  little  known,  as  well  as  the  sea  wot  of 
Greenland,  known  less  still.  Dredgings  and  hydrographical  sotmdings  of  tbeee  seas 
would  therefore,  no  doubt,  give  great  scientific  results.  Another  object  was  the  fine 
dust  which  he  had  on  many  occasions  examined,  and  which  is  foxmd  in  small  quan- 
tities on  the  snow  and  ice  in  polar  regions,  a  phenomenon  of  great  scientific  interest, 
as  the  dust  had  been  found  to  contain  metallic  iron,  nickel,  and  cobalt,  and  was  thus 
shown  to  be  of  cosmic  origin.  It  was  to  be  hoped  that  the  expedition  would,  during 
its  progress  along  the  ice  between  Eeikiavik  and  Cape  Farewell,  be  in  a  position  to 
search  for  such  dust.  The  polar  countries,  whose  climate  is  now  so  inhospitable, 
had,  during  the  geological  period  nearest  to  our  own,  viz.  the  tertiary,  quite  different 
conditions  of  temperature.  As  an  example  of  this  he  might  mention  that  of  the  trees 
which  form  the  principal  vegetation  of  Texas,  viz.  Taxodium  distichumj  fossil  remains 
were  found  in  lai^e  quantities  in  Spitzbergen.  In  Greenland  too  there  were  nume- 
rous signs  of  a  previous  rich  vegetation,  which  had  been  fully  demonstrated  by 
early  investigators,  as  well  as  by  himself  in  1870.  As  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated students  of  fossil  palaeontology.  Dr.  A.  G.  Nathorst,  would  aocompenj 
him  on  his  expedition,  he  felt  sure  that  even  here  important  discoveries  would  be  the 
result.  In  1870  he  had  discovered  the  well-known  iron  blocks  on  Disco  Island,  which 
had  caused  such  an  active  scientific  controversy,  as  to  whether  they  were  of  terres- 
trial or  meteoric  origin,  which  latter  theory  he  defended  himself.  This  discovery 
is  however,  not  the  only  one  of  its  kind  in  Greenland ;  Boss  and  Sabine  had  found 
some  similar  blocks  at  Cape  York,  lat.  76°,  where  they  were  used  by  the  Esquimaux 
to  make  their  utensils  and  weapons  from.  This  subject  it  was  also  his  intention 
to  investigate;  while  he  was  away  on  the  inland  ice,  the  vessel  with  the  other 
members  of  the  expedition  would  steam  to  Cape  York,  and  attempt  to  solve  the 
problem,  and  during  the  journey  there  would  also  be  a  good  opportunity  of  studying 
the  botanical  and  palffiontological  features  of  these  almost  unknown  parts,  and  make 
collections.  No  Scandinavian  expedition  to  Greenland  should  lose  sight  of  tiie 
problem :  Where  were  the  old  Norse  colonies  situated  ?  This  had  never  been 
decided.  From  the  circumstance  that  it  had  never  been  possible  to  penetrate  the 
ice-barrier  on  the  east  coast,  a  Danish  savant  had  come  to  the  conclusion*  that  the 
Osterbygd  had  never  been  situated  here,  but  had  been  founded  on  the  south-west 
coast  where  the  Yesterbygd  lay,  a  little  further  north.  Against  this  assertion  he 
could  advance  several  objections.  Firstly,  he  considered  it  strange,  that  the  old 
Norsemen  who  sailed  far  and  wide,  should  in  Greenland  have  made  such  a  great 
mistake  as  to  the  points  of  the  compass,  and  secondly,  he  thought  that  the  very 
insignificant  remains  found  on  the  west  coast  could  not  be  those  of  the  magnificent 
buildings  to  which  reference  was  made  in  the  Sagas,  even  if  the  descriptions  there 
were  a  little  exaggerated.  He  considered,  therefore,  that  there  was  much  in  favour 
of  his  belief  that  these  colonies  had  lain  on  the  east  coast,  and  to  decide  this  was  also 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOPiEIGN  SOCIETIES. 


ses 


b 


I 


^ 

w 


<me  of  the  objects  he  hjwi  in  view  ia  the  coming  expedition.  The  following  was  the 
|>rognimme  he  had  dniwn  up.  The  vessel  would  leave  Gk)theDburg  on  May  20th,  while 
he  himself  would  joiu  her  some  days  later  at  Thureo,  where  she  would  call  for  coals. 
From  here  she  would  go  to  Keikiavik,  perhaps  calling  at  Rodefjord  on  the  south  coast 
of  Iceland  to  land  a  Swt^lish  uaturaliat,  and  to  collect  some  of  the  splendid  mineral* 
which  are  to  be  found  here.  Jn  Reikiavik,  the  stay  would  only  be  for  a  few  days  for 
coaling.  From  here  she  would  make  for  the  ice-belt  in  the  west,  without,  however. 
Attempting  to  peoetrate  the  same,  which  all  experience  had  shown  to  be  futile.  After 
having  passed  Cape  Farewell,  dredging  the  sea,  the  vessel  woald  go  to  Ivigtuk  oa 
the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  which  is  a  8i>ot  of  mineralogical  interest,  as  hero  are 
found  large  masses  of  the  mm  mineral  "kryolit"  as  well  as  other  kinds.  Tho 
next  place  visited  would  be  the  Auleitsivik  fiord,  from  which  he  and  Professor  S. 
Berggren  had  in  1870  made  tlie  excursion  on  the  inland  ice.  He  intended  to  make 
this  spot  his  starting-point  also  on  this  occasion,  and  his  journey  would,  he  estimated, 
last  thirty  to  forty  days,  the  land  jmrty  consisting  of  ten  in  all.  While  he  waa 
afaaent,  the  party  on  board  would  make  hydrographical  researches  in  Davis  Strait, 
And  examine  the  iron  blocks  at  Capo  York  already  referred  to.  When  the  trip  to  the 
inland  ice  was  ended,  the  vessel  would  steam  to  Ivigtnk  to  coal,  and  the  expedition 
to  the  east  coast  be  eCTected.  In  September  he  exi>ected  to  find  an  ice-free  channel 
along  this  coast.  On  his  return  voyage  his  course  would  be  outside  the  ice.  The 
expedition  was  patronised  by  tho  King,  and  ihe  Government  had  placed  the  steamer 
Sophia  at  its  disposal,  which  vessel  on  account  of  her  constiuction,  with  water-tight 
compartments,  a  jx>werful  engine,  and  being  of  handy  size,  would  be  very  suitable,  as 
there  was  no  intention  of  forcing  the  ice.  The  expenses  of  the  expedition  would  be 
borne  by  Dr.  Oscar  Dickson,  and  the  members  of  tho  same  would  be:  Dr.  Nathorst, 
palffiODtologist ;  Dr.  licrlin,  physician;  Messrs.  Forstrand  and  Kolthoflf,  zoologists; 
and  Dr.  Hamberg,  hydrographer.  The  vessel  would  be  commanded  by  Captain  Eniil 
Nilsson,  who  was  an  experienced  Arctic  skipper,  while  a  Norwegian  hunter,  Herr 
JohanneseD,  and  a  Norwegian  harjHxmcr  would  accompany  her  as  ice-masters.  The 
total  number  of  men  would  be  twenty-four-  The  expe<lition  was  intended  to  return 
to  Sweden  in  October  nest,  and  he,  ihe  commander,  was  certain  that  the  journey 
was  not  in  the  least  attended  with  danger,  and  that  there  was  no  fear  of  being 
frozen  in,  and  thus  compelled  to  winter.  ITio  number  of  nautical  miles  covered  by 
the  veesel  would  be : — Gothenburg  to  Thurso  500,  Thurso  to  Reikiavik  700,  Rcikiavik 
lo  Ivigtuk  870,  Ivigtuk  to  Auleitsivik  fiord  540,  Auleitsivik  fiord  to  Omenak  330, 
Omenak  to  Cape  York  40ij,  viz.  a  total  of  3340  nautical  miles. 

Soclete  Ehediviale  de  Oeographie,  Cairo.— March  23rd:  Nahdi  Pasha, 
Governor  of  the  flaiTar,  gave  some  particulars  of  tliat  region  from  jiersonal  knowledge. 
As  he  could  only  address  the  Meeting  in  Arabic,  his  remarks  were  translated  into 
French,  and  the  following  notes  placed  on  the  records  of  the  Society  : — There  are 
two  roads  from  Zeila  to  Harrar,  the  summer  one  through  Tokuacia,  Amlx;$,  and 
Abasuen ;  the  winter  one,  to  the  eastward,  through  Warabat,  Mandaa,  and  Ensa. 
They  unite  at  a  point  less  than  midway,  and  form  but  one  road  through  Biakabonba, 
Kotto,  Garasli,  and  the  Oildessa  Pass,  This  information  corresponds  with  that 
contained  in  Giulietti's  map  of  1871>,  published  by  Guido  Cora  in  his  *  Kosmos,'  with 
the  exception  that  the  latter  sliowa  "  EUnn  "  in  both  the  winter  and  summer  road, 
whereas  the  Fasha^s  notes,  as  translated,  make  it  at  the  point  of  junction.  From 
Zatla  to  Gildessa  the  distance  is  ten  days  for  camels  doing  seven  hours  a  day ;  and 
twelve  days  for  those  marching  six  hours.  From  ZeiU  to  Elian  is  ten  days ;  from 
Gildes«a  to  Harrar,  two  days.  The  professional  camel-men  are  "Isaas,"  but  at 
<iilde88a,  where  the  territory  of  the  Gallas  begins,  they  leave  the  traveller,  who  has 
to  hire  bones  and  camels  from  the  latter  people.     There  are  no  military  stations 


366 


NEW  COOKS. 


along  the  rood,  tbose  of  Enaa,  Sumniedo,  and  Abasuen  Having  been  abolisbod.  But 
tlie  sbinklis  of  the  several  campinji-grounds  are  responsible  for  the  safety  of  travelleTi. 
No  mishap  ever  occurs ;  merchants  ami  others  traveree  the  country  with  ono  ur  two 
camels,  unattended  save  by  two  or  three  ecrvnnts,  and  largo  enms  of  money  hpi 
conveyed  from  Harrar  to  Zeila,  and  rice  versa,  by  simple  messengers.  It  is,  of  counw^ 
to  be  understood  that  wages  and  biro  arc  duly  paid  for  service  rendered.  There  w  a 
road,  besides,  leading  from  Harrar  to  Berbers.  This  very  difficult  and  very 
mountainous  track  passes  through  a,  country  inhabited  by  the  Somali  Habflroni, 
^vho  do  not  bear  a  good  reputation.  The  journey  is  of  sixteen  days,  of  which  four 
are  without  water;  it  is  perfonne<l  on  donkeys  and  mules  only.  The  country 
between  Zeiln  and  Harrar  is  generally  sterile,  little  frequented,  and  little  known.  It 
is  inhabited  by  nomad  tribes.  At  Harrar  itself  and  in  the  immediate  neighbouN 
hood»  it  is  veiy  fertile,  cultivated,  and  well  known.  Each  tribo  of  Gallas  has  its 
territorial  limits  clearly  defined.  The  inhabitants  are  skilful  workmen  and  in- 
dustrious; they  cultivato  coffee  and  other  plants,  and  work  tolerably  in  iron  and 
brass.  Nominally  Mussulmans,  they  are  not,  except  in  the  towns,  attentive  to  their 
religious  duties.  As  to  morals  they  are  rather  highway  robbers  than  petty  thievM. 
The  priests  and  slieikhs  of  Harrar  speak  Arabic.  Commerce  is  carried  on  by  money 
payments  and  exchanges  in  kind,  such  as  Venetian  glass,  Paris  jewelry,  and  bits  of  bra» 
or  copper.  There  are  several  EurojK?atiB  in  Harrar,  some  twenty  Greek  mcrclianls, 
four  Trench  Jesuits,  one  French  and  one  Italian  mercantile  house.  Nahdi  Pasha 
concluded  Ids  remarks  by  inviting  European  travellvra  to  Harrar  and  the  country  of 
the  Gallas,  pointing  out  that  they  %vero  preferable  to  the  dangerous  and  unhealthy 
regions  of  the  Soudan  and  Central  Africa.  Security  was  to  be  found  there,  together 
witb  much  matter  of  interesting  research.  He  would  be  delighted  to  proro 
persooally  useful  to  new  comera  as  he  bad  been  lo  former  visitors  and  naercbantt; 
and  he  hoped  to  entertain  there,  at  some  time,  members  of  the  Khedivial  Geo- 
graphical Society.  Two  Arabic  maps  were  exhibited  and  referred  to  by  the  speaker 
who,  although  lie  scarcely  added  any  new  information  to  that  contained  in  the 
intelligent  and  exhaustive  notes  of  Colonel  Muhammad  Mukhtar  Bey,  taken  in 
1876,  deserves  credit  for  so  readily  supplying  the  Cairo  scientific  public  with  the 
results  of  his  ex|)erienoe  in  the  Harrar  and  adjoining  tracts. 

April  20th:  Dr.  Abuate  Pasha  in  the  Chair. — A  paper  was  read  by 

Mn  WhitehouBO,  giving  an  account  of  recent  explorations  in  the  Faiyum,  chiefly 
with  a  view  to  determine  the  tiiie  iX)sition  of  the  Lake  Moeris.  His  argTiment 
against  its  identiGcation  with  the  "  Birkatu-1-Kar^in  "  had  already  been  intelligibly 
put  about  a  year  ago,  and  ia  to  be  found  in  the  *  Proceedings  of  the  Society  of 
Biblical  Archa;ologj%'  dated  6th  June,  1882.  On  the  present  occasion  Mr.  White- 
house  went  into  his  subject  iu  coasiderable  detail,  and  readily  answered  the  inter- 
rogatories put  to  him  by  one  or  other  of  his  auditors. 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E.  C.  Btk,  Librarian  b.g.8.) 

EUROPE. 

BsBdekcr,  Kar  — Grioc^hcnland.  Handbnch  filr  Reisendo.  Leiiizi;;  (Karl  Bajde* 
kerj:  1883,  12mo.,  pp.  cxxii.  ami  371,  maps,  plans,  panorama  of  Athens,  and 
other  illustrations.    {Buhiu :  price  75.  6rf.) 

This  first  issue  on  Greece  by  the  well-known  Leipzig  publisher  ia  bftsed  on 
10  years'  actual  travel  and  obseivntion  by  Dr.  Lolling  ot  Atljcns,  with  additions 
on  Ulympia  by  Dr.  Dbrpfcld  and  Dr.  Karl  Purgold,  and  oii  various  archaoolo- 


NEW  BOOKS. 


867 


H   aodC 

^m        nev 


logicAl  THjints  connected  with  the  museums  in  Spar»«»  ?iali  (Te;:ca),  and  Dimit- 
na,  &c.,  also  by  tho  latter  authority.  Contributions  Irom  other  sources  aro 
Liso  acknowled;j;etl,  and  Dr.  Reinhard  Kckulc  has  given  an  historical  treatise  on 
Jreek  Art,  which  with  the  other  ethnological  and  cbruuological  rujitfc-r  in  ibo 
fcoluminons  introduction  removes  the  work  ab»jve  the  usual  guide-book  type. 
lie  majvs  are  of  the  whole  kiogdora  (loose  in  cdv^t),  frtjin  Kieprt's  new 
d'Atlas,  scale  1 : 1,000,000,  showing  steamer  linea  (also  reduced  for  easy 
iTerenoe  on  the  cover  nt  end);  a  general  sketch  of  routes  in  South-eastern 
Europe,  Asia  Minor,  and  North  Africa,  scale  1 : 6,000,000 ;  Corfu,  scale 
1:300,000;  Athens  and  its  vicinity,  scale  l:loO,000;  tho  Pira'us,  scale 
1 :  25,000 ;  Myccna>,  scale  1 :  9400 ;  tho  plans  are  of  Athens,  the  Acropolis, 
and  Ulyinpia. 

West-  nnd  Mittel-lUisslanJ.     ITandbucb  fiir  Reisende.    Leipzig   (Karl 
deker) :  1883,  12mo.,  pp.  lii.  and  442,  maps  and  i«laus.    {DuJau,  price  10a.) 

Also  A  new  country  for  the  series.  In  this  case,  the  original  groundwork  is 
.^'  Herr  Pauli^  a  captain  in  the  Pnissian  Artillery,  long  resident  in  Kussia.  A 
Seographical  and  Historical  section  is  given  in  the  Introduction,  with  a  short 
fet  of  books  on  the  country.  The  maps  are  of  the  Warsaw  Government,  scale 
,  :  2,000,000 ;  the  vicinity  of  St.  Petersburg,  scale  1 :  380,000 ;  the  Vol'j;a  from 

Kishni-Xovgorod  to  alx)ve  Samara,  scale  1:1,000,000;   and  Central   I{us8ia» 

Fcale  1 : 8,000,000.     Tho  pUns  arc  of  Warsaw,  its  inner  city  and  anburb.-* ; 

llipi;  St.  Petersburg,  inner  city  and  tho   Ereroitage;  llelsingfors ;    Moscow, 

with  the  Kremlin;  and  JCishni-Novgorcnl. 

•  Italy.    Handbook  for  Travellers,  by  K.  Baedeker.    'ITiird  Part :  Southern 


Italy  and  Sicily,  with  Excursions  to  the  Lipari  Islands,  Malta,  Sardinia,  Tuni«, 
and  Corfu.   Eighth  revised  edition.    Leipsic  (Karl  Baedeker)  and  Loudon  (Dulau) : 
l2rao.,  pp.  xlviii.  and  404,  24  maps,  IG  plans.    Price  Qs, 

P»evi8ed  and  augmented,  esiiccially  as  regards  Naples,  on  the  climatic  and 
sanitary  conditions  of  which  some  new  and  trtiatworthy  notes  are  given.  Soma 
new  maps  and  plans  are  also  given. 

H&re,  AngtwtTis  J.  C. — Cities  of  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily.     London  (Smith, 
Elder,  A  Co.):  1883,  post  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  and  535,  woodcuts.     Price  12j. 

ITife  very  readable  vohime  hai«i)eng  to  come  fitly  next  to  the  Bxdelicr  last 
above  mentioned.  With  practical  information  intended  for  the  use  of  travtllt-rs 
and  tourists,  it  includes  much  historical,  architectural,  and  artistic  detail  of  the 
many  objects  of  interest  covered  by  its  title,  and  some  few  topographical  notes. 

ASIA, 

"^Gilmour,  [Be7.1  James. — Among  the  Mongols.     Tendon  (The  Religious  Tract 
Society):  n.d,,  cr.  8vo.,  pp.  xv.  and  382,  map  and  illustrations.     Price  6*. 

The  author  narnites  his  i>ersonal  experiences  among  the  Mongol  tribes  who 

inhabit  the  eastern  jwrtion  of  the  plateau  of  Central  Asia  lying  between  Siberia 

and  China.     Starting  from  Peking,  he  first  saw  the  great  plain  in  Aunust  1870, 

and  during  most  of  the  intervening  years  has  sfwot  the  summer  montbK  among 

the  tribes  to  the  west,  north,  and  east  of  Ealgan,  having  had  the  opportunity 

during  the  winter  months  in  Peking  of  meeting  Mongols  coming  to  that  centre 

I  government  duty  from  nearly  all  the  tribes  scattered  over  the  vast  extent  of 

ert  territory  which  acknowledges  Chinese  rule.     Knowledge  of  the  language, 

ailiarity  with  the  people,  and  the  author's  carefulness  of  observation  and 

utioQ  of  statement,  warrant  the  belief  that  the  information  in  this  book  is 

orrect. 

It  is  expressly  noted  that  the  Buddhism  discussed  in  it  is  not  the  ancient 
etic  system,  but  the  modern  development,  for  which  ihe  better  name  would 
I  Lamaism.    Some  of  the  engravings  are  from  sketches  by  a  Chinese  artist  of 
rSalgan. 


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Murray- Aynsley,  rMrs,]  J.  C— Our  Tour  ia  Southern  India.  London  (F.  T. 
White  &.  Co.)-  1S83,  8vo.,  pp.  358  [no  index].     Price  10s.  Gd. 

Leaving  England  at  the  end  cf  October  1870,  the  RUthoress  viaits  (besides 
varioua  well-known  localities)  the  Coorg  territory^  Cochin,  Tnwancore,  i&c,  .ind 
iDtersi)crsos  her  narrative  with  much  historical  and  architectural  matter. 

Walker^  [Lieutenant-General]  J.  T.— General  Keport  on  the  Operationa  of  the 
Survey  of  India,  comprising  the  Great  Trigonometrical,  the  Toix)graphical,  uid 
the  Revenue  Surveys  under  the  Government  of  India,  during  1881-82.  Prepared 
under  the  superintendence  of  Lieuicaant-General  J.  T,  Walker,  c.b.»  b.e.,  r.B  *., 
Ac,  Surveyor-General  of  India.  Calcutta  (Bengal  Secretariat  Proas)  :  1883,  fo., 
pp.  1-79  and  (1)-(120).    Maps  and  frontiapicce. 

First  of  the  chief  operanoos  carried  out  during  the  survey  year  from  1st  Octo- 
ber, 1S81,  to  30th  September,  1882,  recordM  in  this  \{e]x)Tt',  is  the  TrianguU- 
tion, — especially  noteworthy  from  the  fact  that  the  chain  of  principal  triangieK 
known  as  the  Eastern  Frontier  Series,  which  in  proviotw  years  had  been  carried 
from  Assam  through  Anvkan  and  Brilish  Burma  into  Tenaaserim,  baa  now  been 
brouf^ht  to  a  close  on  a  kise  lino  of  verification  at  Mergui,  Ihua  finishing  the 
principal  triangulation  of  all  India  on  the  lines  originally  marked  out  by  Colonel 
Everest,  and  sanctioned  by  the  Eaat  India  Comixaay. 

The  completion  of  this  great  undertaking  has  necessitated  a  brief  review  of 
the  whole  operations,  from  tlie  coramenceracnt  in  1800  of  the  so-(^lled  "  mathe- 
matical and  geogmpliical  survey  "  in  Southern  India  by  Major  Lambton  on  the 
recommendation  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  (then  Col.  Wellesley),  clearly 
illustrated  by  two  charts,  one  a  skeleton  of  the  principal  chains  as  completed  to 
May  1882,  with  the  proposed  secondary  triangulations  in  Upper  Burma  and 
down  the  Malayan  Peninsula  (iy2  railfs  to  the  inch);  the  other  an  index  chart 
to  the  survey  (96  miles  to  the  inch),  completed  to  Ist  October,  1882,  showing 
Lambton'a  network  in  Southern  Indiai  the  meridional  and  longitudinal  chains 
of  principal  triangles,  base  lines,  spirit-levelling  lices,  astronomical  stations, 
longitudinal  arcs,  and  secondary  triangulations  for  fixing  peaks  and  the  positions 
of  Bangkok  and  Kandahar. 

The  Tojxigraphical  operations  have  been  carried  on  in  continuation  of  thon 
of  the  former  year  in  Gwalior  and  Central  India,  Khandesh  and  the  Bombay 
Native  States,  Bhojjal  and  Malwa,  Sylhet,  and  the  Khasi  and  Garo  Hills, 
Ilajputana,  Mysore,  Kohat,  Guzerat,  Cutch,  Meerut,  South  Deccan,  the  Hooghly 
river  region,  sxnd  Beluchistan, — the  gonenil  out-tura  being  G431  square  miles 
survey etl  on  the  ^-inch,  9081  on  the  l-iocb,  8627  on  the  2-inch,  14  on  the 
C-inch,  and  33  on  the  16-inch  scales,  besides  the  Forest  Survey  and  the  survey 
of  4(5  square  miles  of  towns,  »S:c  ,  on  scales  varying  from  6  to  80  inches.  The 
survey  of  trie  tenka  of  the  Hooghly  is  Y>eing  cjvrried  on  simultaneously  with  a 
survey  of  its  bed  now  in  progress  under  the  orders  of  the  Port  Commissioners, 
and  is  of  great  importance,  as  the  existing  maps  are  out  of  dale  and  on  much 
too  small  a  scale  fur  practical  utility  in  this  densely  pojjulated  and  valuable 
riverain  tract.  In  connection  with  this  suliject,  it  is  poiuted  out  that  the  old 
topographical  surveys  on  which  the  sheets  oi*  the  atlas  of  India  on  the  scale  of 
i-inch  to  the  mile  were  founded,  wtre  in  reality  mere  geographical  recon- 
naissances, sullident  for  their  purpose,  but  now  to  be  superseded  by  more 
elaborate  survey  operations. 

The  Muuzawar  or  Village  survey  of  the  Dera  Ismail  Khan  district  has  been 
completed  and  extend e<^l  ini*j  iho  Thai  portion  t)f  Muznffagarh,  with  an  area  of 
1687  sijuare  miles;  the  Kiverain  surveys  on  the  Jumna  and  Ganges  have 
yielded  199  square  miles;  and  the  Forest  surveys  in  Hnwalpindi,  Konkau, 
Tharawaddy  (British  Burma),  and  Khande.sh  cover  1311  square  miles ;  all  on 
the  4-inch  scale.  Considerable  progress  is  also  recorded  in  the  cadastral  surveys, 
areas  of  1385  square  miles  in  the  N«.»rth-West  Provinces  (Ghazipur,  Ballia, 
Mirzapur,  and  Tarai  districts),  3513  in  Brilish  Burma  (Haothawaddy,  Bassein, 
Tharawaddy,  and  Rangoon  town  districts),  and  26  in  Assam  (Sylhet)  being 
surveyed  ;  whilst  the  geographical  surveys  and  reconnaissances  have  resulted  iu 
the  following  additions  to  the  country  already  mapped  : — Burma  and  Manipur 


4 


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d69 


^boundary,  1600  miles  on  tho  i-incb,  and  1150  on  the  i-inch;  Kohat  frontier, 
4o0  on  the  J-inch;  BeluchLjtan,  3240  on  the  J-inch  and  2420  on  the  J -inch; 
East  Sikkiru,  180  on  the  J-iuch  ;  Nepal,  720  on  the  J-inch ;  Tibet,  G90  on  the 
i-inch  ;  Dardistan,  200  on  the  i-inch ;  and  Kiabanganga,  COO  miles  on  the 
1-inch. 

A&  frequently  the  case  in  these  Reports,  the  chief  geographical  interest 

I  attaches  to  the  Trans-Himalayan  explorations  by  native  travellers,  the  con- 

I  spicuous  value  of  whoso  services  is  attested  by  the  honourable  official  mention  of 

I  ine  late  Pundit  Nain  Singb,  c.i.e.,  who  received  the  Patron's  gohl  medal  of  this 

Society  in  1877  for  his  great  journeys  and  surveys  in  Tibet  and  along  the  Upper 

Brabmapatni,  and  whose  death  occurred  during  the  j^ear  recorded ;  and  also  by 

the  publication  of  the  award  oi  the  two  medals  placed  at  tho  disposal  of  tho 

I  Sorveyor-General  by  the  loternational  Geographical  Congrcaa  at  Venice  in  1881. 

jtOne  of  these  baa  been  presented  to  M S ,  and  the  other  is  reserved  for 

I  presentation  to  A — — k,  two  of  the  native  explorers  whose  work  will  be  noticed 

.  nereunder.    Before  referring  to  these,  however,  it  should  l»e  remarked  that  the 

extracts  from  the  narrative  reports  of  the  executive  officers  in  charge  of  the 

survey  parties  and  operations  given  in  the  Appendix  (such  as  those  of  Major 

_  Jiogers,  Major  Straban,  Major  Carter,  Colonel  \Voodthor}>e,  Mr.  McGill,  Major 

[  Thuiliier,  Major  Holdich,   Colonel  Haig,  Mr.  Jarbo,  Mr,    Badgley,  and  Mr. 

Hennessey),  contain  a  very  large  amount  of  geographical  information  and  topo- 

grai>hical  detail,  with  some  iwints  of  etbnological  and  zoological  interest.     The 

^pomewhat  lengthy  notes  of  Mr.  Jarbo  and  Major  Badgley  are  especially  to  be 

"  paliiKHl,  as  descriptive  of  little  known  parts  of  British  Burma. 

The  recorded  work  of  native  explorers  is  as  follows  :— 

(1)  Explorations  in  and  around  Badakahan  by  M S ,  a  Fir  or  holy 

man,  who  in  1877  volunteered  bis  services  for  geographical  purposes,  being 

I  about  to  make  a  journey  from  Kashmir  across  the  Hindu  Kuah  aud  Oxus  to 

f  Kol4b,  to  visit  ancestral  shrines.     After  being  trained  at  Dehra  Ddn  by  the 

veteran  Nain  Singb,  he  arrived  at  Yasiu,  north-west  of  Gilghit,on  December  14, 

1878,  and  was  detained  there  for  nine  months.   In  Sejitember  1370,  he  proceeded 

up  the  Darkuth  valley  (where  Mr.  Hay  ward  was  mtu-dered),  crossed  the  Shunder 

Paasiato  tho  Mustauj  valley,  and  entered  tho  valley  of  Wakhdn  by  theBarogbil 

,  Pftss,  striking  the  Oxus  at  Sarhad,  and  thence  following  the  ordinary  route  to 

[Faitdbiid. 

Towards  the  end  of  Febro-nry  1880,  after  a  diversion  to  the  south  to  the 
Daraim  valley,  he  continued  his  journey,  practically  follo\\  ing  the  we^stern  and 
northern  route  of  the  Havildar,  mentioned  in  former  rep^)rt3,  to  Kiistak  and 
Kolab,  and  again  crossing  the  Oxus  at  Kamti.  From  Kolab  be  left  the  Havil- 
dar's  route,  and  proceeded  up  tho  Dodba  valley  to  Robat,  from  which  point, 
having  found  the  Kvin-i-Gan  Pass  iuto  Darwdz  impracticable,  he  retraced  bin 
steps  nearly  to  Kolab,  and  crossed  into  the  Dara  Imdm  valley  (nearly  parallel  with 
the  Dodba  valley),  aud  having  followed  it  lo  its  head,  crossed  by  the  Walwalak 
Pass  into  the  Oxus  valley,  following  the  north  bank  of  the  river  north-east  wards 
civer  ground  previously  unexplareti  to  Ki!a  Khum,  where  he  re-struck  the 
liavildar's  route.  This  ho  followed  south-east  to  the  junction  of  the  Wanj  with 
the  Oxus,  when  he  crossed  to  the  south  bank,  reaching  Varv,  where  (like  the 
Havildar)  he  was  stopped  by  native  hostilities.  Betracing  his  steps  as  far  back 
I  the  Im^m  valley,  he  then  fullowed  the  Xayiin  to  its  junction  with  the  Oxus, 
[favMBsing  the  latter  at  Kisht,  and  ascending  the  table-land  of  Shiva  by  a  route 
liiiherto  whoUy  unknown,  which  took  bim  across  central  Bodakehan  into  the 
Lvpper  basin  of  the  Oxus,  which  he  struck  a  little  above  Kikh  Bar  Panjah.  He 
now  proceeded  northwards  down  the  river,  passing  near  Kila  Wamar,  and  onco 
more  reaching  Varv,  by  a  circuitous  south-western  detour,  thus  securing  an  im- 
portant link  hitherto  wanting  to  complete  the  course  of  the  Oxus.  lieturning 
to  Kila  Wamar,  be  went  north-east  up  the  Bartang  or  Murghabi  valley  to  Sarez, 
^  its  highest  inhabited  {wiut,  finding  conclusively  that  the  Bartang  rises  in  tho 
kfiArez  Pamir,  and  is  not  a  continuation  of  the  Aksil ;  tho  latter  river  was 
reported  to  merge  in  the  Sochan,  which  joins  the  Shdkh  Dara  at  Yamraj, 
entering  the  Oxus  above  Kilah  Bar  Panj:ili.  After  retracing  his  steps  to  the 
latter  jilace,  the  explorer  followed  the  Shakh  Dara  valley  south-east,  but  found 


370 


'NEW  BOOKS. 


the  soutliern  passes  blocked  with  sand,  neoessilating  a  return.  His  way  back 
to  India  was  down  the  Oxus,  southwards  to  Ishkdsham,  winch  he  had  touched 
on  the  rofld  to  FaizdbAd,  and  eastward  to  tho  Baroghil  Va»a,  where  he  visital 
the  Ghaji  Kol  Lake,  detennining  its  positioo.  Independeutly  of  the  entirely 
new  ground  traversed  during  this  long  journey  the  details  supplied  combine 
with  previous  surveys  to  furnish  a  nearly  complete  delineation  of  the  great  bend 
in  tho  Panjah  river  in  ita  downward  course  from  Wakhdo,  before  it  is  known 
as  the  Oxus. 

This  important  piece  of  work  is  cleoily  illustrated  by  a  special  sketch-map 
(scale  12  miles  to  the  inch)  of  the  whole  region,  Hh^jwiog  the  collecting  area  of 
the  upi>er  Uxua  and  its  chit-f  tributaries,  with  its  circuitous  northern  loop  through 
Darwaz — a  small  piece  of  its  coarse,  some  30  miles  between  Kisht  and  Samti, 
alone  remaining  to  be  defined. 

(2)  Explorations  on  the  frontiers  of  Sikkim  by  two  natives,  illtistrat^  on 
a  map  (scale  16  miles  to  the  inch).  One  of  them,  Babu  D.  C.  S.,  attached  to  tha 
Educational  Department^  and  aim  trained  by  Nain  Singh,  started  in  1879  from 
Jongri,  in  Sikkim.  He  crossed  the  Kanchinjin^  mage  to  Yamga-tshal  in 
Nepal,  on  one  of  the  upper  aClueuta  of  the  Tambur,  then  taking  the  route 
which  sometimes  skirts,  sometimes  crosses,  the  weiit«m  spurs  of  Kanchinjing*, 
and  viaitiDff  the  monastery  of  Taschichodiug  near  Giamsar  (Hooker's  Khamba. 
chen) ;  he  then  crossed  the  fonniiiablo  Chatanj^  Pass,  on  the  Ne|>al  and  Tib«t 
borders,  to  a  plateau  at  the  head  of  the  Zemu  river,  in  Sikkim,  and  also  the 
easier  pass  of  Chorten  Nyima  Kaug  into  the  Tibet«n  province  of  Chang,  which 
he  traversed  by  a  route  to  tho  w«8t  of  Khamba  Jonj;,  eventually  reaching 
Shi$;atze,  south  of  the  Sanpo. 

The  work  of  the  other  native,  G,  S.  S.,  is  less  satisfactory ;  ho  ascended  the 
Arun  valley,  in  Nopal,  to  the  Popte  water-parting  which  forms  the  boundary  of 
Nepal  and  Tibet,  and  reached  the  Tilietan  village  of  KartA,  where  he  wm 
stopped.     His  information,  therefore,  is  chiefly  on  rotites  in  Nepal. 

Captain  Harman  has  made  tho  most  of  this  explorer's  few  notes,  and  in  the 
Appendix  supplii'S  a  memoranduin  on  the  data  for  the  map,  which  includes  also 
the  route  of  Gr.  M.  N.,  another  explorer,  from  Sbipatze  to  Khamba  Jong  in  1880, 
as  well  as  those  of  former  explorers,  and  some  of  the  results  of  the  work  of  the 
Darjeeling  survey  party  (especially  that  of  Mr.  W.  Robert)  in  1879-82, 
Captain  Harman  advls  a  nn  rnurandum  on  the  loni;itude  of  Shigatze,  for  which 
he  adopts  the  position  of  88°  54'  as  the  most  probable  value. 

(3)  A  preliminary  nccyimt  of  explorations  over  an  extensive  area  in  Great 
Tibet,  to  the  north  and   east  of  the   regions  reached  by  Nain   Singh,  and 

made  by  his  pupil  and  fctrmer  corajwuion  A k,  who  returned  to  Calcutta 

after  an  absence  of  four  years  so  recently  tljat  there  has  not  been  time  for  the 
reduction  of  his  obsen'ations,  tho  translation  of  his  journals,  or  the  constmction 
of  a  map.  This  persevering  traveller  contrived  not  only  to  secrete  and  preserve 
his  journals,  but  also  his  scientific  instru mentis  notwithstanding  that  on  two 
occasions  he  was  robbed  of  the  greater  part  of  his  property.  The  brief  particu- 
lars given  in  the  rejwrt  are  practically  tho  same  as  those  already  published  in 
our  'Proceedings'  for  February  last,  pp.  99-101.  The  chief  geographical 
result  of  his  journey  is  that  it  sets  at  rest  the  frequently  mooted  question 
whether  tho  fjanpo  tiows  into  the  Irawadi  or  into  the  Brahmaputra.  If  the 
former,  the  explorer  must  (as  mentioned  in  the  former  notice)  have  crossed  it 
three  times,  first  between  Batang  and  Sama,  secondly  between  Sama  and 
Alanto,  and  finally  at  Chetang.  He  maintaius  that  he  only  crossed  it  at  the 
latter  place,  and  that  to  the  west  of  his  route  between  Sama  and  Alanto,  there 
is  a  great  range  of  hills,  forming  the  water-parting  between  the  afHucnta  of  the 
Sanpu  and  those  of  tho  well-known  system  of  parallel  Tibetan  rivers  which 
ho  crossed  between  Batang  and  Sama.  Ug  is  stntid  to  know  the  Sanpo  well,  to 
have  crossed  it  frequently  and  in  various  places,  and  to  be  satisfied  that  none  ol 
these  affluents  can  possibly  bo  identical  with  it.  A  full  account  of  his  eitdora- 
tions  is  stated  to  be  intended  to  be  got  ready  for  publication  with  maps,  probably 
within  six  months  of  the  issue  of  the  Report. 

Accounts  of  tidal  and  levelling  operations  (including  some  interesting  notes 
on  the  results  of  the  earthquake  of  31st  December,  18bl,  illustrated  by  a  special 


NEW  BOOKS. 


371 


thnri  xrA  two  diagrams  of  onryca),  and  of  electro-telegraphic  longHndo  opem- 
il»  given;  and  the  ftccoiinl  of  the  businee*  of  the  severftl  Head- 
lodca  some  valuftble  tochniral  remarks  by  ilajor  J.  Waterhoujie  on 
bt  Aork  doae  iu  the  Phot«>2:nipUic  Branch.  The  succeis  of  this  indefatigable 
65ccr'ii»  scienti6c  laWiurs  is  well  shown  by  the  frontispiece  of  the  Keix)rt,  which 
w  a  view  of  Kaochinjinga  reproduced  by  bis  procesfs  of  heliogravure*. 

In  additiou  to  the  maps,  &c.,  above  noticed,  the  Report  c«>nUin8  a  general 

ap  of  Indin^  showing  the  progress  of  the  Imperial  Surveys  to  1st  October,  1882  ; 

I  map  of  the  Eastern  frontier  series  of  triangles  from  MertjtiJ  to  Lower  Siam 

'    lie  30  miles  to  an  inch) ;  and  twenty-one  maps  illustrating  the  tt^iographical 

I  Oilier  surveys  noticed  in  the  text. 

AFKICA. 

rozals,  J.  de.— Les  Penlhs.   £tude  d'Ethnologio  AfricMne.    Talis  (Maisonueuve) : 
1883,  8vo.,  pp.  271  [no  index].    (Dulau :  price  5s.) 

After  %  general  review  of  the  geographical  distribution  and  aflinitieg  of  the 
African  races,  entirely  derived  from  German  authorities,  the  atithor  analyses 
diacoises  in  detail  all  former  notico»  of  the  Fulahs  (known  also  as  Fullos, 
bulia,   Pholeyti,   Foulahs,  Foulanies,  Fellans,  Fellatahs,  with  various  other 
6odi6cations),  for  the  S?negambian  representjttives  of  which  race  he  adopts  the 
brra  *  Penlhs  *  employed  by  lleoquard,  based  on  the  root  of  the   *  Pullo '  of 
arth  (plural  *  Fulbe'),     It  is  considered  by  Dr.  CrowU  that  such  a  work  as 
his  is  practically  needed,  in  the  face  of  the  preponderance  evidently  destined 
'  lor  France  in  the  basin  of  the  Niger  and  its  ailluenta. 


AUSTRALASIA. 

C^iseler,  —.—Die  Oster-Insel.  Eino  Statte  prAhistorischer  KuHur  in  der  Siidseo. 
Bcricht  dea  Kommandanten  S.  M.  Kbt.  Hyiine^  Kapitiialieulenant  Geiseler,  iiber 
die  ethnologieche  Untersuchung  der  Oster-Insel  (Rapanui)  an  den  Chef  der  Kaiser- 
lioiien  Admiralitat.  Berlin  (Mittlcr  &  Sohn):  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  54,  map  and 
21  plate«.    (^Jhdau:  price  3«.) 

This  report  of  Commander  Geiseler,  who  in  the  Prussian  gunboat  Hyasna 

ftitod  Easter  Island  on  20^25  Septcml»er  last,  is  an  extract  from  No.  44  of  the 

Lipplementary  Papers  to  the  German  Marine  official  publication,  and,  though 

aturally  of  most  interest  to  ethnologists,  may  bo  taken  as  itself  supplementing 

be  paper  by  Mr.  J.  Linton  Palmer  in  our  'Journal/  vol.  xJ.  p.  1G7,  and  the 

Mllustmted  account  by  M.  Alphonse  Pinart  in  the  'Tour  du  Monde,*  vol.  xxxvi. 

p.  225.     The  visits  "of  the   Tojatz  and  Stvjnelatj  in  18C8  and  1877,  which 

afforded  opportunities  for  these  two  writer*,  are  recorded  with  others  in  an 

introductory  note  to  the  report,  though  the  accounta  themselves  would  aeem  to 

be  unknown  to  its  author. 

Commander  Geiseler,  after  giving  brief  details  of  daily  work  during  his  visit 
(including  the  positions  of  some  of  the  prominent  jwints),  discusses  more 
elaborately: — 1,  the  hydrographic  and  generally  inleretilin;;  features;  2,  the 
])rehistoric  aspect*;  and  3,  the  ethnographical,  subdivided  under  Population 
(now  only  150  souls,  of  whom  67  are  matei,  39  females,  and  44  children,  two- 
thirds  of  the  whole  living  at  Matav^ri,  where  Mr.  fialmoo,  the  rcpresenUitivo  of 
the  Tahitian  firm  of  Brander  &  Co.,  lives),  Races  and  typea,  Language, 
Numeral  system,  and  Elabits  and  customs.  The  latter  subdivision  is  copiously 
treated  under  various  headings,  and  with  the  short  vocabulary  and  anthological 
fragments  and  87  ethnographical  objects  enumerated  and  briefly  described  iu 
the  Appendix,  will  doubtless  |jrove  of  special  value  to  Prof.  Bastiao,  of  the 
Berlin  Museum,  at  whoso  desure  Commander  Geiseler  appears  to  have  been 
detached  for  thin  service. 

The  map  laid  down  by  the  oQloera  of  the  Chilian  corvette  O^Niggins,  and 
from  which  our  Admiralty  chart  is  taken,  is  reproduced  here,  and  stated  to  be  iu 
general  points  correct.  Some  few  corrections  are  made  in  the  text  (p.  5),  and  our 
Admiralty  chart  is  stated  to  give  the  soundings  for  the  most  part  as  somewhat  less 


372  NEW  BOOKS. 

deep  tban  in  the  original.  Two  original  profiles  are  also  given,  \^ilh  ondoal 
representations  of  the  curiouB  preliistoric  and  other  objecta  for  which  the  mund 
JB  fameil,  including  a  sketch  of  the  jxiisitions  of  the  aocieut  stoae-Lousea  on  tlic 
Bouth-weat  slofic  of  the  crater  of  Rana  Kao  (or  Terano-Kau). 

GENERAL. 

HordenjBkioldj  A.  E.— Om  Broderna  Zenos  Resor,  och  de  aldsta  Kartor  ofvw 
Norden.  Stockholm  (Central-Tryckeriet) :  1883,  8vo,  pp,  60,  maps  and  facsimile. 

This  elaborately  worked  out  and  admirably  executed  dissertation  was  read 
beforo  the  Swedish  Academy  of  Science  on  12th  April  kst,  and  is  a  part  of  the 
distinguished  traveller's '  Studier  och  Forskningar  ftiranledda  af  raina  Reaor  i 
H5ga  Norden,'  a  popular  scientific  siippleinent  to  tbe  account  of  the  voyage  of 
the  Vega  now  in  course  of  publication. 

It  consists  of  a  Swedish  translation  of  the  often  discussed  account  jtubliahed  by 
Maroolini  in  1558  of  tbe  travels  of  tbe  brothers  Zeni,  cbiefly  familiar  to  English 
readers  from  tbe  masterly  analysis  by  our  late  Hon.  Secretary,  Mr.  R.  H.  Major, 
in  the  publications  of  the  Hakluyt  Society.  Tbe  original  map  of  tbe  Zeni  ix 
reproduced,  wilb  the  1501  version  of  it  by  Ruscelli  in  his  edition  of  Ptolemy,  a 
jMirt  of  Northern  Euroi^e  from  tbe  Cosmographia,  the  1483  world-map  of  Pe'iras 
do  Alyaco  (Pierre  d' A  illy),  Nortbera  Europe  from  Donis's  e<iition  of  the  Cosmo- 
graphia, Bordone's  1547  Scandiuavia,  the  world-map  in  tbe  British  Museum  by 
Martellus  Germanua  of  (circa)  1489,  Scandinavia  and  tbe  world-map  from  Pedr^ 
xaoo's  1548  etlition  of  Ptolemy,  Northern  Europe  from  Glaus  Magnus,  1567, 
Andrea  Bianco'a  14S6  MS,  map  of  the  North,  the  1532  Bale  *  Typus  cosmo- 
frraphicus,'  the  north-west  part  of  Frisius's  1522  map,  and  a  facsimile  in  ooloor  (^ 
the  oldest  known  map  of  the  North,  by  Claudius  Clavus,  with  its  accompanyiog 
deficriptive  text.  This,  the  first  to  contain  a  representation  of  Greenland,  beats 
the  date  of  1427,  and  was  discovered  by  Baron  Nordenskiold  himself  in  a  MS- 
copy  of  Ptolemy's  Cosmographia,  preserved  in  the  Municijml  Library  at  Nancy. 
The  author,  also  referred  to  as  Claudius  Cimbricus,  apj^ears  to  have  compiled 
this  pre-Columbian  chart  at  tbe  instigation  of  Cardinal  GuUelmus  Filiastms. 
]t  includes  the  north  of  England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  the  Orkneys,  Iceland,  the 
Danish  and  Scandinavian  peninsulas  (including;  the  Baltic  apjwrently  to  its 
head,  near  which  are  depicted  Stockhohn  and  Gothland,  and  with  its  eastern 
shore),  and  on  the  extreme  west  a  i^rt  of  eastern  Greenland  (with  the  solo 
legend  "Gronlandia  Provincia"),  connected  with  the  cxtrems  north  of  the 
Scandinavian  peninsula  by  a  mythical  shore-line  north  of  tbe  Arctic  ocean,  in 
the  extreme  north  of  Norway  as  drawn,  but  considerably  lower  down  on  its 
western  face  when  tbe  peninsula  ijf  turned  into  its  proiwr  position,  appears  also 
"  Engromelandi,"  which  represents  the  *'  Enf;ronclant    of  Donis. 

A  careful  analysis  of  all  this  material,  which  represents  the  existing  know- 
ledge at  the  time  of  Marcolini's  publication  of  tbe  Zeni  narrative,  has  resulted 
in  the  following  deductions  by  Baron  Nordcntikiold  : — 

1.  That  the  map  of  the  Zeni  must  be  based  on  an  old  sea-chnrt  of  the  north, 
conatracted  belbre  1482,  and  probably  brougljt  home  from  Frisland  by  Antuuio 
Zeno. 

2.  That  we  do  not  know  of  any  exact  copy  of  Ihe  original  itself,  tljongh  we 
do  know  of  two  that  are  more  or  less  altered,  namely  the  chart  of  Zeno  the 
youngt-r,  printed  in  155H  and  15G1,  and  Uonis'j^,  printed  in  1482.  On  the  first, 
the  old  distribution  of  land  and  sea  has  been  almost  exactly  adhered  to,  bat  on 
the  other  hand  it  has  lieen  adapted  to  the  narrative  by  the  addition  of  various 
names  which  appear  in  the  text,  such  as  the  islands  of  Icaria,  Bres,  Brons, 
Trans,  Iscant,  &c.,  by  making  the  Ffcro  and  Shetland  Islands  disproportionately 
larger,  and  histly,  by  adding  longitudes  and  latitudes,  tbe  latter  being  generally 
too  far  north.  All  these  alterations  are  less  decided  in  the  first  Dillon  of 
Donis's  chart.  Here,  however,  we  find  the  well-conceived  alteration  that  Green- 
land has  been  movetl  further  north,  to  give  it  a  ^xtsition  more  in  accordance  with 
later  determinations  by  compass  observations,  and  with  the  geographical  ideas 
of  the  time. 

3.  That  if  both  these  charta  are  not  indet)eDdcnt  compilations  from  the 


I 


XEW  MAPS.  873 

OTiginal  one,  the  richer  and  more  correct  chart  of  the  Zeni,  both  as  to  names  and 
details,  must  be  the  elder. 

4.  That  the  chart  of  the  North  which  Zeno  brought  home  must  be  regarded, 
from  a  cartographical  point  of  view,  as  extraordinarily  good  for  the  time,  almost, 
indeed,  on  a  par  with  Andrea  Bianco's  chart  of  the  Mediterranean. 

5.  That  the  chart  of  the  Zeni  must  give  the  resiilt  of  experience  gained 
during  repeated  voyages  in  these  r^ons  by  intelligent  seamen,  probably  before 
the  introduction  of  the  compass  in  the  north. 

6.  That  we  must  conclude  from  this,  that  towards  the  end  of  the  fourteenth, 
possibly  in  the  fifteenth  century,  voyages  to  the  north-western  [sic]  part  of 
America  were  much  more  frequent  than  is  generally  supposed. 

7.  That  the  old  sea-chart  which  Admiral  Zahrtmann  saw  in  the  Copenhagen 
Library,  and  which  could  not  afterwards  be  found,  was  Nicolai  Donis's  chart, 
which  was  printed  for  the  first  time  in  1482. 

8.  That  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  at  that  time  was  less  enoumbered  with 
ice  than  at  present,  because  that  now  inaccessible  coast  could  then  be  properly 
charted. 

9.  That  the  younger  Zeno  has  left  in  the  book  published  by  Maroolini  a  gene- 
rally truthful  sketch  of  the  sojourn  of  two  Venetians  with  a  northern  rover,  who 
established  himself  on  one  of  the  Faero  Islands,  and  from  thence  plundered  the 
neighbouring  countries,  visiting  amongst  other  places  a  remarkable  monastery, 
probably  situated  on  the  east  coast  of  Greenland,  and  a  harbour  situated  some- 
where on  the  south  coast. 

10.  That  fishermen  from  the  rover's  head-quarters  were  driven  by  a  storm 
to  the  mainland  of  America,  and  there,  in  Newfoundland  and  Canada,  saw  the 
remains  of  small  communities  originally  founded  by  Europeans ;  also  that 
these  fishermen  were  compelled  by  circumstances  to  make  extensive  journeys 
in  the  interior  of  the  American  Continent,  of  the  social  conditions  of  which 
they  have  left  some  graphic  pictures. 

Xnirioh,  ValentiXL— Die  horizontale  Gestalt   uud  Beschaffenheit  Europa's  und 

Kordamerika's.     Ein  Beitn^    zur  Morphologic  beider   Erdenr&ume.     Leipzig 

(Duncker  &  Humblot) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  182.    (  Williams  &  NorgaU :  price  4«.) 

This  treatise  on  the  horizontal  configuration  and  composition  of  Europe  and 

North  America  originally  appeared  in  1882  as  an  academic  lecture  before  the 

Bavarian  State  SchooL    Europe  and  North  America  are  associated  as  being  geo- 

graphicidly  two  highly  organised  individuals  of  the  same  species,  as  it  were,  the 

latter  being  practiodly  as  much  a  separate  continent  as  the  former. 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  Ck)LES,  Map  Curator  b.o.8.) 
WORLD. 
Telegraph  Map  of  the  World.— Map  of  the  World  showing  the  Submarine 
Telegraph  Cables  manufactured  and  laid  by  the  Telegraph  <!]!onstruction  and 
Maintenance  Company,  Limited,  together  with  other  Telegraph  Lines.    Mercator's 
Projection,  Equatorial  Scale  161°  to  an  inch.    P.  Le-B.  Bed  well,  b.k.,  del.    Tele- 
graph Construction  and  Maintenance  Company,  Limited,  London,  1883. 

EUBOPK 
ORDNANCE  SURVEY  MAPS. 
Publications  issued  from  1st  to  31st  January,  1883. 
25-iiich — ^Pansh  Maps  :— 

Enqlaot):  Bedford:  Arlesey  9  sheets;  Barton  in  the  Clay  11,  and  Area 
Book;  Eversholt  8,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Harlington  8,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Higham 
Gobion  8,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Milton  Bryant  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Potsgrove  6,  and  Ar. 


IJEW  MAPS. 


Bk. ;  Pulloxliill,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Sbitlington  and  Do.  (Det.,  Nos.  7  and  8)  16,  ainl 
Ar.  Bk. ;  Streatley  8,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Tinprith  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Toddin^n  IS, 
and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Stotfold  8 ;  Upper  Stondon  3,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Westoning  9,  and 
Ar,  Bk.  ;  Wobura  11,  and  Ar.  Bk.  Cornwall :  QuethiocklS;  St.  Pinnock, 
Ar.  Bk.  Derby:  Allestree,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Quamdon,  Ar.  Bk.  Gloucester: 
AlderlcyT;  Beveratoue  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Hawkesbury  25;  Tetburv  15; 
TVotton-under-Edge  15 ;  Weston  Birt  witb  Lasborougb,  Ar.  Bk.  Uon- 
montb  :  Cacrwent,  Ar,  Bk.;  Caldicot»  Ar.  Bk. ;  Llangattock-Vibon-Avel  11 ; 
LLinvibangel-Yatem-Llewcm  8,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Llantrissent,  Ar.  Bk. ;  LUn- 
frechfa,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Llandegvetb,  Ar.  Bk, ;  Llanvair  Disooed,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Llaa- 
dewi-fach,  Ar.  Bk. ;  I.lanvaches,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Pare  Grace  Dieu,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Pesnbow, 
Ar.  Bk.;  Sbire  Is'ewton,  Ar,  Bk,;  St.  Bride's  Netherwent,  Ar.  Bk.;  St. 
Mangbans,  5 ;  Usk,  Ar.  Bk,  Norfolk :  Attlebridge  5 ;  Crostwick,  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Ftltborpe  7;  Newton  Flotman,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Stoke  Holy  Cross,  Ar.  Bk.  Shiop- 
sMre  r  Acton  Bnmell  7 ;  Atcham  14,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Beckbury  8,  and  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Berrington  11,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Boningale,  Ar.  Bk.;  Cardeston,  At.  Bk.; 
Ryton,  Ar.  Bk. ;  St.  Julien,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Wroxeter,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Condover,  17 ; 
Creasage  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Eaton  Constantine  5,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Great  Hanwood 
4,  and  Ar.  Bk.  ;  Leipbton  and  Do.  (Det.)  8 ;  Pontesbury  and  Ford  (De.t)  23, 
and  Ar,  Bk.  Suffolk:  AMebnrgb  7;  Aldringham  with  Thorpe  5;  Boulge 
3,  and  Ar.  Bk,  ;  Brandon  (Part  of)  10,  and  Ar,  Bk. ;  Brantham  8  ;  Culpho  4, 
and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Klvedea  13  ;  Eriswell  16 ;  Hazlewood  7  ;  Iken  8 ;  Mildenhall 
28  ;  Santon  Dcwnharn  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Sproughton,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Stutton  10, 
and  Ar.  Bk ;  Sudbourne  15. 


Index  Map;— 

Indes  to  the  Ordnance  Survey  of  Sussex. 


(Scale  3  miles  to  1  inch.) 


Publications  issued  from  1st  to  28th  February,  1883. 

l-inch— Gh^nerai  Maps : — 

EsGLAND  AND  Wales  I  Sheet  257  (in  Outline). 
IRELAKD  :  Sheet  163  (Hill-ehaded). 

6-iiich — County  Maps : — 

ESQLAND :  Derby  Quarter  Sheets  9  S»W. ;  10  N.W. ;  10  N.E. ;  11  8.W. ; 

aw.;  16  S.W.;    IG  S.E.;    17   N.W. ;  18  S.E.;   19  N.E.  (21  N.E.  with 

Stafford  1  N.E.) ;  (21  S.E.  with  Stafford  1  S.E.). 
lREr,.\N^D :  Cavon  (revised),  sheet  39.     Longford  (revised),  sheets  6,  9, 11, 12^ 

16,  20,  21,  25. 

26'ilich — Pariah  Maps : — 

England  :  Bedford :  Astwick  4  sheets  ;  Oampton  4 ;  Edworth  6  ;  Laogford 
6.  Cornwall :  Cardinham  20  ;  St.  Martin  9,  and  Ar,  Bk. ;  St.  Neot  27  ; 
Temple  3.  Derby  :  Aston  upon  Trent  8,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Calke  5  ;  Chellat- 
ton  4  ;  Derby  Hills  Township  4 ;  Doveridge  and  Do.  (Det,  No.  1)  9,  and  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Foreiuark  7  ;  Marston  on  Dove,  and  Rolleston  (Det.,  No.  1)  11,  and 
Ar.  Bk. ;  Melbourne  9  ;  Bepton  12  ;  Scropton  10,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Stanton  by 
Bridge  7  ;  Swarkeston  5,  and  Ar.  Bk.  ;  Tioknall  10 ;  Weston  upon  Trent  6, 
and  Ar.  Bk.  Gloucester :  Boxwell  with  Leighterton  7,  and  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Bronght^n  Poggs  (Det.)  3,  and  Ar.  Bk,  ;  Ozleworth  7  ;  Shipton  Moyne  6. 
Horfolk :  Blotickl  7  ;  LWtou  4  ;  Easton  G  ;  Great  Melton  10  ;  Hainfotii  7, 
and  Ar.  Bk.  ;  Hethersett  8,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Honingham  10  ;  Horstead  with. 
Stoiningball  10,  and  Ar.  Bk, ;  Marlingford  5  ;  Postwick  6  ;  Ringland  7, 
Shropshire :  Habberley  5 ;  Kemberton  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Kenley  6 ; 
MiuBierley  8  ;  Pitch  ford  7,  and  Ar,  Bk.  ;  Posenball  4  ;  Sheinton  5,  and  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Stapleton  8,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Uppiiigton  5,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Westbury  22  ; 
Wollaaton  12  ;  Wombridge  C,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Wrockwardine  and  Do.  (DeU, 
Nos.  1  and  2)  19,  and  Ar.  Bk.    Suffolk ;  Burgh  G ;  Gruadisburgh  7. 


NEW  MAPS.  870 

Publications  issued  from  Ist  to  3l8t  March,  1883. 
i-inch— General  Map : — Ibelako  :  Sheet  113  (Hill-shadod). 
6-incll— County  Maps  :— 

Englakd  :  Berks,  sheet  41  with  Wilts  sheet  37  and  Hnnts  sheet  1.  Hertford, 
sheet  35.  Hertford,  sheet  5  with  Essex  sheets  1,  2,  7,  8.  Wilts,  sheet  65 
with  Hants  sheet  22.    Wilts,  sheet  6L  with  Hants  sheet  30. 

26-mch— Parish  Maps:— 

ENOiJkKD :  Bedford :  Arlesey,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Astwick,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Campton,  Ar.  Bk ; 
Chicksands  Priory,  5  sheets,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Clilton  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Clophill  6;  Edworth,  Ar.  Bk.;  Henlow  8;  Langford,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Lower 
Gravenhurst  4,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Meppershall  6,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Sheflord  2,  and 
Ar.  Bk. ;  Shefford  Hardwick  4,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Silsoe  8  ;  Stotfold,  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Upper  Gravenhurst  7,  and  Ar.  Bk.  Cornwall :  Blislanrl  IG ;  Braddock,  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Duloe,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Landnlph  7;  Liskeard,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Menheniot,  16; 
Pelynt,  Ar.  Bk.;  Qnethiock,  Ar.  Bk.;  Temple,  Ar.  Bk.  Derby:  Area 
Books  of  the  following  Parishes : — Calke ;  Derby  Hills  Township ;  Foremark ; 
Melbourne ;  Stanton  by  Bridge ;  Ticknall.  Gloncester :  Area  Books  of 
the  following  Parishes: — Alderley;  Hawkesbury  ;  Ozleworth ;  Tetbury; 
Wotton-under-Edge.  HonmOTlth :  Cwmcanran,  At.  Bk. ;  Gweraesney,  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Henllys  11,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Kemeys-Inferior  8 ;  Llanbadock,  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Iilan?attock  juxta  Caerleon  11 ;  Llangattock-Vibon-Avel,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Llangibby, 
Ar.  Bk.;  LJanroartiu  5;  Llanvihangcl  Pontymoil,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Malpas  4; 
Nc'wchurch,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Penrhos,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Pen-y-Clawdd,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Rock- 
field  9;  St.  Maughans,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Tredunnock,  Ar.  Bk.  Korf<^.  Area 
Books  of  the  following  Parishes : — Attlebridge ;  Barford  ;  Blofield ;  Bracon 
Ash;  Carleton  Forehoe;  Col  ton  ;  Crownthorpe  ;  Dunston;  East  Carleton ; 
Easton ;  Felthorpe ;  Flordon ;  Great  Melton ;  Hethel ;  Honingham ;  Ket- 
teringham  ;  Marlingford  ;  Morton  on  the  Hill ;  Postwick ;  Pvingland ;  Weston 
Longville ;  Wraraplingham ;  Wreningham.  Shropshire :  Area  Books  of 
the  following  Parishes: — ^Acton  Bumell ;  Condover;  Cound;  Habberley; 
•Leighton  and  Do.  (Det.) ;  Minsterley ;  Posenhall ;  Westbury  ;  Wollaston. 
Stafford:  Enville  12,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Himley  7,  and  Ar.  Bk.  Suffolk: 
Aldeburgh,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Barton  Mills  5 ;  Brantham,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Burgh,  Ar.  Bk ; 
Elveden,  Ar.  Bk» ;  Eriswell,  Ar.  Bk  ;  Grundisburgh,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Hazlcwood, 
Ar.  Bk. ;  Iken,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Mildenhall,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Snape  7  ;  Sudboume,  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Tuddenham  9 ;  Wantisden  6. 

Town  Plan— scale  1 :  500  :— 

England  :  Banbury,  23  sheets. 

Index  Map— Scotland  :    Index  to  the  Counties  of  Perth  and  Clackmannan. 
Scale  3  miles  to  1  inch. 

Sohweis,  Kleine  officielle  Eisenbahnkarte  der— — .  Herausgegeben  vom  Schweizer. 
Post-  und  Eisenbahn-Department,  Scale  1 :  500,000  or  6  •  8  geographical  miles  to 
an  inch.    Lausanne.    Price  Is.  6d.    (Dulau.) 

Spain. — ^Mapa  TopogrdBco  de  Espaiia  en  escala  de  1 :  50,000  or  1*4  inches  to  a 
geographical  mile.  Comienza  su  publicacion  el  Institute  Geografico  y  Esta- 
distico  bajo  la  direccion  del  Excmo.  Sefior  Don  Cdrlos  Ibaiiez  6  Ibafiez  de  Ibero, 
Dh-ector  General.  Madrid.  .Sheets: — No.  604.  Villaluenga,  No.  60C.  Chinchon, 
and  No.  629.  Toledo. 

ASIA. 

Bock,  Carl.— Originalskizze  ciner  Rciseroute  von  Bangkok  zum  l^lekdng,  anfgenom- 
men  imd  gezeichnet  von  Carl  Bock,  1882.  Scale  1:4,000,000  or  55*5  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  *  Geographische  Mittheilungen,'  Jahrgang 
1883,  Scitc  162.    (Dulau.) 

Cochinclline  Fran^aise,  Carte  do  la ,   reduction  de  la  grande  carte  de  M. 

Bigrel.     Price  2s.  Hd,    {Dulau.) 


2864 

m 

=  1-75 

2622 

m 

=  3-0 

844 

m 

=  3-0 

876  NEW  MAPS. 

AFRICA. 
West  Equatorial  Africa.— Uebersichtskarte  der  neuesten  Forschnngndn 
aquatoiialea  Westafrika.    Entworfen  und  gezeichnet  von  B.  Hagsenstein. 
1 : 5,000,000  or  66  *  6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Petermann's  *  Geograp 
Mittheilungen,'  Jahrgang  1883,  Taf.  6.    Justus  Perthes,  Ck>tha.    (Dulau.) 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty. —Charts  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Department,  Admiral 
March  and  April  1883. 
No.  InehM. 

359       m      =    0*32    Japan: — Nagasaki  to  Karatsu,  with  the  Gk>to  i 
(Plans,    Tama   no    Ura.     Hardy    harbour.    ( 
harbour.    Kama  Ura.)    Price  2<.  6d. 
287        m       =     0*24    Borneo,  northern  part :— From  Gay  a  bay  on  the  ii 
Sandakan   harbour   on    the   east,  including 
Banguey  chazmel,  and   the  south-western   p 
Cagayan  Sulu.    Price  2s.  Qd. 
491        m       =  various.  West  Indies:  —  Anchorages  in    Guadeloupe   an 
adjacent   islands — St.    Anne    anchorage.     Pc 
Moule.    St.  Francois  anchorage.    Port  Louis. 
Terre.    Galet  anchorage.    Salutes  anchorage.    < 
Bourg.    Price  la.  Qd. 
North  America,  east  coast : — Beaufort  harbour.    P 
Shetland  isles : — Fair  isle.    Price  Is. 
Sea  of  Marmara : — Erekli  bay.    Palatia  and  Mei 
bays.    Rodosto  roads.    Earabuga  bay.    Geml 
Mudania  roads.     Pandemia  bay.     Kalolimno 
Price  1«.  Gd. 
439        m       s=  various.  Central  America,  west  coast: — ^Ports  and  anchoi 
Istapa  or  Isla  Grande  bay.    Sibuatanejo.     P< 
Tequepa  or  Papanoa.     Guatulco,   Santa  Cm 
TangoLa  Tangola.    Maldonada    Angeles.    Saa 
Price  1«.  6d. 
1048       m      s=     0*1      Australia,  west  coast : — Buccaneer  archipelago  to 

island.    (Plan,  Beagle  bay.)    Price  2s.  6d. 
613        m       —    0*13    Australia,  north  coast: — Melville  island  with  ] 
and  Clarence  straits.    (Plan,  Vernon  islands.) 
1«.  6d, 
China: — Ragged  point  to  WSn-chau  bay.    Price  2 
China : — WSn-chau  bay  to  Eweshan  islands.    Fri 
South  America,  west  coast : — Puerto  del  Mono, 
cove  and  approaches.    Price  1«.  6d 
548       m      =     3*0      South    America,   east   coast: — Maldonado   bay. 

U6rf. 
2880       m      =     1*78    North   America,   east  coast: — New   Bedford   h 

Price  1». 
438        m       =     4*9      France,  north  coast : — Boulogne.    Price  1«. 
2094        m       =     0*8      England,  west  coast : — ^IsleofMan.    (Plans,  Rams 

Douglas  harbour.    Castletown  bay.    Port  St. 
Calf  sound.    Port  Erin.    Peel.)    Price  4». 
451  Plan  added,  Ocho  Rios  bay. 
2723  Plan  added,  Pulo  Dama. 
2369  Plan  added,  Pillau  harbour. 
{J,  D.  Potter,  ajent.) 


1754 

m 

=  0*24 

1759 

m 

=  0*24 

159 

m 

=  6*0 

rom,    JTZom  west  to  east  they  are  in  the  fdllowin|p  oidar:  1.  Th^^ 
No.Vn.-JuLTl883.]  2o 


PROCEEDINGS 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


The  Annual  Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geo^raphtf  for  1882-3. 
By  the  Right  Hon.  Lord  Abebdare,  f.r.s.,  President. 

(Delivered  at  the  Annivcreary  Meeting,  May  28th,  1883.) 

Is  the  few  remarks  which  I  had   occasion  to  make  on  opening  the 

bjpreeent  Session  of  the  Socidty  in  November  last,  I  roviewod  some  of 

■the  more  important  geographical  events  that  had  occurred  since  the 

provions  Anniversary.     Among  other  matters  I  rofenod  to  the  great 

loss  which  tlie  Society  had  sustained  by  the  lamental>b?  death  of  Captain 

Gill,  and  gave  a  sketch  of  his  career  as  a  geographer.     To  this  subject, 

lid  to  the  happy  retom  of  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  and  the  crew  of  the  Eira^ 

Eon  which  I  also  dwelt  on  that  occasion,  I  need  not  further  allude  than 

by  saying  that  an  account  of  the  voyage  of  the  Eira  and  the  escape  of 

the  crew,  drawn  up  by  Mi",  Markham  from  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  diary,  was 

I  lead  before  the  Society  by  Dr.  Keale  at  oive  of  our  meetings  in  February, 

ad   has  been   duly  published   in  our  '  Proceedings,'  accompanied  by 

extracts  from  the  diary  itself;  and  also  that  Mr.  Leigh  Smith  has  Binoo 

testified  his  gratitude  for  the  sympathy  which  he  received  from  the 

Society  by  contributing   the   handsome   sum   of  lOOOZ.   towards   the 

enses  of  expeditions. 

The  return  of  our  gallant  countryman  after  his  perilous  six  weeks' 

boat  journey  to  Novaya  Zemlya,  and  his  safe  conveyance  home  in  the 

lope,  sent  by  the  Relief  Committee  under  the  command  of  Sir  Allen 

foung,  do  not  exhaust  the  noteworthy  events  of  Arctic  adventure  and 

enterprise  which  have  occurred  since  our  last  Anniversary.    Daring 

Lihe   summer   the   whtde   of   the    remaining    expeditions    equipped   by 

rious  countries  for  the   purpose  of  founding  stations  for  scientific 

observations  in  North  Folur  regions,  left  for  their  destinations,  and 

from    most  of  them  news  was   received  before   the  winter  closed  in 

of  their  being  comfortably  established.     These  observatories  in  the 

are    nine    in    number,    forming   an    irregular    ring    round   the 

Pole.     From  west  to  east  they  are  in  the  follctWug  order :    1,   The 

No.  VII.— July  1883.]  2  o 


378 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  OX  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


AnstroHungarian  station  on  the  island  of  Jan  Mayen,  tho  party  for 
Tvhicli  was  landed  on  the  13th  of  July;  2.  The  Norwegian,  at  Bijsekop, 
in  Lapland^  which  commenced  operations  on  the  Ist  of  August ;  3.  Thts 
Sweilish^  in  Ice  Fiord,  Spitzbergen,  which  was  viKited  by  our  Aseociate 
Mr.  Ileneago  Cocks  in  September,  and  was  found  to  be  in  ftill  activit}-, 
observations  having  commenced  on  the  15th  of  August ;  4.  Tho  Hussian 
(western)  station  in  Moiler  Bay,  Novaya  Zemlya ;  5.  The  eastern  station 
of  tho  same  nationality  on  Sagastyr  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lena, 
which  was  established  on  tho  10th  of  August,  and  was  visited  some 
days  aft^jrwards  by  Messra.  Schutze  and  Harber,  two  American  gentle- 
men who  had  been  engaged  in  the  search  for  possible  survivors  of  the 
ill-fated  Jeannette  expedition ;  6.  Tho  United  States  western  station 
near  Point  Barrow  ;  7.  The  English  station  at  Great  Slave  Lake ;  8.  The 
eastern  United  States  station  in  Lady  Franklin  Bay ;  and  9,  the 
German,  in  Cumberland  Sound,  Davis  Straits.  Both  the  stations  of 
the  United  States  Government  were  founded  in  the  summer  of  1881 ; 
that  at  Point  Barrow  has  been  since  visited  and  relieved,  but  the 
attempt  made  last  summer,  according  to  pre-arrangement,  to  carry 
Buccour  to  the  station  at  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  unfortunately  failed,  the 
relief  ship  Neptune  being  unable,  notwithstanding  the  most  persevering 
efibrts,  to  pierce  the  ioe-obstniction  in  Smith  Sound.  The  party  there 
established  is  a  large  one,  consisting  of  twenty-four  men  under  the 
command  of  Lieutenant  Greely,  and  we  can  only  hope  that  no  suflFerings 
have  been  entailed  by  tho  failure  to  renew  their  supplies.  Another 
station,  which  would  liavo  made  tho  10th,  was  to  have  been  founded  by 
Holland,  at  Dickson  Haven  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei,  but  the  party 
despatched  for  that  purpose  in  the  Vania  did  not  reach  its  destination, 
the  vessel  having  been  cauglit  by  the  ice  on  the  21st  of  September  and 
frozen  np  for  the  winter  in  the  Kara  Sea,  Two  stations  which  aro  about 
to  bo  establifihed  in  Antarctic  regions  remain  to  l>e  mentioned;  one 
French,  at  Cape  Horn,  tho  other  German  in  the  island  of  South  Georgia. 

Although  geographieal  exploration  forms  only  a  very  subordinate 
part  of  the  work  marked  out  for  these  stations,  the  object  of  their 
promoters  being  chicfiy  tho  collection  of  data  for  the  solution  of  im- 
portant problems  in  terrestrial  magnetism  and  meteorology,  yet 
geographical  science  in  its  best  and  widest  sense  cannot  fail  to  be 
greatly  benefited  by  their  success.  They  are  a  striking  result  of  inter- 
national co-operative  effort  in  a  scientific  direction. 

The  expedition  which  I  mentioned  in  my  former  address  as  being 
in  preparation  by  the  enterprising  young  Danijah  oflBcer  Lieutenant 
Hovgaard,  sailed  from  Copenhagen  under  promising  aospices  in  the 
Dijm^hna  on  tho  18th  of  July;  the  cost  being  provided  for  by  the 
munificence  of  M.  Gamel  of  that  city.  Lieutenant  Hovgaard's  object 
was  to  follow  in  the  track  of  Nordenskiold — with  whom  he  served  in 
the  Vega — as  far  as  Cape  Chelyuskin,  and  to  ascertain  whether  Franz- 


THE  JLNNUAL  ADDRESS  OX  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


379 


Joeef  Land  extends  to  the  neighbotirliood  of  that  promontory,  as  ho 
supposed  it  docs,  from  certain  indicationa  ob8er\'ed  by  him  on  his  former 
Toyage,  Unfortunately  his  progress  was  arrested,  like  that  of  the  Dutch 
expedition  in  the  Varua^  by  ice  in  the  Kara  Sea,  where  it  ie  believed  he 
has  parsed  the  winter. 

During  the  past  summer  the  survivors  of  the  ill-fated  Jeanuette 
expedition — the  fate  of  which  excited  such  painful  interest  in  this 
country — returned  home,  and  Engineer  Melville  delivered  his  ufficiul 
report  of  the  search  and  discovery  of  the  remains  of  Commander  De 
Long  and  his  companions,  which  has  been  published,  with  a  map  of 
routes.  The  parties  sent  along  the  Siberian  coast  in  search  of  possible 
survivors  of  the  third  boat  also  returned.  Mrs.  De  Long  is  now  engaged 
in  writing  a  narrative  of  the  expedition  from  ber  husband's  journals, 
and  meantime  Mr.  Gilder,  of  the  search  and  relief  expedition  in  the 
Modffen,  who  made  a  hazardous  winter  journey  through  North-Eastern 
Siberia,  after  the  burning  of  that  ship  in  its  winter  quarters,  has  published 
an  account  of  the  search  for  the  Jeannette  under  the  title  of  *■  Ice-pack  and 
Tundra.' 

The  Arctic  campaign  of  the  present  year  has  commenced  with  as 
mnch  spirit  as  ever.  Baron  Nordcnskiold  is  first  in  the  field  with  a  new 
expedition  to  Greenland,  where  he  intends  to  make  a  vigorous  effort  to 
penetrate  into  the  interior  of  that  ice-bound  land,  and  test  the  accuracy 
of  his  surmises,  founded  on  excellent  reasoning  from  meteorological  data, 
that  central  valleys  exist  enjoying  a  comparatively  warm  and  dry 
cliraatxj.  This  expedition,  in  which  a  competent  scientific  staff  will  aid 
its  expericncod  and  accomplished  leader,  has  recently  left  for  its  destina- 
tion, and  has  excited  much  public  interest  in  this  and  other  countries  of 
Europe.  The  Danes  also  are  sending  an  expedition  to  the  same  region, 
under  Lieutenant  Uolra,  whilst  the  gallant  and  persevering  Dutch 
explorers  in  the  little  WiUem  Barents  have  started  on  their  fifth  Arctic 

ise  to  the  Barents  Sea,  having  in  view,  besides  geographical  research, 
le  rescue  of  the  Varna  and  the  Dijmphna. 

With  regard  to  Africa,  the  exploration  which  is  naturally  of  most 
interest  to  the  Fellows  of  the  Society  is  that  recently  commenced  by 
Mr.  Joseph  Thomson,  under  the  direction  of  your  Council.  This  new 
expedition  has  for  its  object,  as  you  have  already  been  informed,  one  of 
the  routes  marked  out  as  a  desideratum  in  the  geography  of  the  con- 
tinent by  the  African  Exploration  Committee  in  1877,  viz.  from 
Mombasa,  by  Kilimanjaro,  to  the  south-east  shore  of  Victoria  Nyanza, 
but  with  the  addition  that  the  return  journey  is  to  take  in  the  hitherto 
nn visited  Mount  Kenia.  Eegarding  Mount  Kilimanjaro,  we  have 
already  a  fair  knowledge  at  least  of  its  southern  slopes,  through  the  two 
visits  of  the  Baron  von  der  Dcckcn,  on  the  second  of  which,  in  18G2,  he 
ascended  with  Dr.  Kerstcn  to  an  altitude  of  13,900  feet,  but  did  not 
reach  the  snow-line,  which  was  2000  feet  above  his  position,  and  from 

2  c  2 


880 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


the  subsequent  visit  of  Mr.  Charles  New  in  1871,  who  reached  the  snow, 
and  formed  a  valuable  collection  of  the  flowering  plant*  at  a  great  alti- 
tude. Mr.  Thomson^s  intention  is  to  pus«  round  the  noilhem  foot  of 
the  mountain  mass,  and  thence  take  as  direct  a  route  as  practicable  to 
Kavirondo^  on  the  shores  of  the  lake.  According  to  our  latest  news  from 
Zanzibar,  ho  had  organised  a  caravan  of  150  men  at  Mombasa  and  the 
mission  statiun  of  Eabhai,  near  that  port,  and  liai>pily  escaping  the  usual 
tedious  delays  near  tho  coast,  had  reached  Bura,  about  100  miles  in  the 
interior,  on  the  2otli  March,  expecting  to  arrive  at  Taveta,  near  Kiliman- 
jaro, where  a  caravan  route  branches  off  to  the  north-west,  on  the  Ist  of 
April  By  thus  taking  the  northern  route,  Mr.  Thomson  will  avoid  going 
over  tho  same  ground  as  Dr.  Fischer,  a  German  naturalist  of  great  skill 
and  experience,  who  was  then  near  the  southern  foot  of  Kilimanjaro.  Of 
the  extensive  tract  of  country  between  Mount  Kilimanjaro  and  the  lake 
we  know  nothing  except  from  native  reports ;  these,  however,  have  been 
gathered  and  collated  with  great  diligence  and  discrimination  by  two 
competent  geographers,  acquainted  with  the  native  languages,  namely  the 
Rev.  Thos.  Wakefield  of  Kibe,  near  Mombasa,  and  Archdeacon  Fark-r  of 
the  Universities'  Mission,  who  has  resided  for  several  years  at  Magila, 
in  Usambara,  not  far  from  the  threshold  of  the  unknown  region.  Their 
reports  and  maps  have  been  published  in  recent  numbers  of  our  *  Pro- 
ceedings,' and  it  is  satisfactory  to  note  tiiat  they  agree  in  the  main,  at 
least  as  far  as  regards  the  routes  followed  by  the  Ai'ab  caravans.  North 
of  Kilimanjaro  a  ridge  of  very  elevated  land  seems  to  extend  towards 
the  Galla  country,  the  snow-capped  Mount  Kenia  rising  on  its  eastern 
edge;  but  to  the  west  au  extensive  ]»lain,  at  an  elevation  of  probably 
3000  or  4000  fcot,  stretches  towards  Lake  Victoria — a  plain  peopled  by 
the  pastoral  and  flesh-eating  Masai,  whoso  marauding  parties  carry 
teiTor  to  the  more  peaceful  settlements  of  the  agricultural  negroes 
nearer  the  coast.  So  little  is  kuow^l  of  this  tribe,  that  tho  details  lately 
communicated  to  us  by  Mr.  Last,  who  has  visited  one  of  their  settlements 
near  the  suuthcm  border  of  their  country,  were  extremely  welcome. 
Trading  caravans  from  the  sea-coast,  which  periodically  traverse  the 
Masai  country,  are  compelled  to  be  well  anucd  and  to  fortify  their 
nightly  camps  in  passing  through  the  more  dangerous  districts.  Accord- 
ing, however,  to  Mr.  Last,  the  Masai  are  too  cowardly  to  attack  a  well- 
armed  party,  and  wo  havo  full  confidence  that  our  young  leader,  who 
has  on  former  occasions  shown  much  courage  and  tact  in  dealing  with 
hostile  natives,  will  be  able  to  cAjrry  out  his  gi-eat  mission  without 
mishap. 

A  littlo  further  south  another  of  those  great  journeys  across  the  entire 
continent,  which  formerly  attracted  so  much  public  attention,  has  been 
carried  to  a  successful  conclusion.  Lieutenant  Wissnuinn,  who  started  in 
company  with  Dr.  Pbgge  from  St.  Paul  de  Loanda  in  January  1881,  reached 
Zanzibar  via  Nyangwe,  on  the  Lualaba  and  Ujiji,  in  November  1882. 


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The  two  travellers  together,  before  reaching  Nyangwe,  explored  a  wide 
tract  of  quite  new  country,  their  route  crossing  that  of  Lieutenant  Cameron 
at  right  angles,  and  lying  far  to  the  south  of  Stanley*8.  One  of  the  most 
noteworthy  features  reported  by  them  of  this  remote  central  region, 
well  watered  by  numerous  Boutheru  tributaries  of  the  mighty  Congo, 
is  the  dense  population ;  but  for  more  detailed  information  regarding 
these  new  countries  and  strange  tribes,  we  must  await  the  publication 
of  Lieutenant  Wissmaun's  narrative.  His  companion,  Dr.  Pogge,  who 
returned  westward  from  Nyangwe,  to  establish  a  station  in  fulfilment 
of  the  main  object  of  their  common  mission,  may  now  fairly  lay  claim 
to  a  place  in  the  front  rank  of  African  explorers.  His  first  great  journey, 
in  1876,  when  he  reached  the  capital  of  the  renowned  Central  African 
potentate,  the  Muata  Yanvo,  and  an  account  of  which  ho  has  since 
published  under  the  title  of  '  Im  Reiche  des  Muata  Jam  wo'  (Berlin, 
1880),  was  of  itself  a  geographical  feat  of  tho  highest  iraportince, 
especially  as  the  enterprising  explorer  brought  back  with  him  a  collec- 
tion of  the  natural  products  of  the  region  of  much  interest  and  value. 
1  cannot,  indeed,  i)a8a  over  this  subject  without  acknowledging  that  we 
are  indebted  chiefly  to  German  explorers,  among  whom  we  must  also 
reckon  Gussfeldt,  Pechuel-Loesche,  Biiohner,  Lenz,  and  Von  Mechow,  for 
much  of  the  best  knowledge  we  possess  of  West  Central  Africa. 
The  meritorious  explorations  of  the  Portuguese  expedition  under 
Copello  and  Ivens,  especially  in  the  basin  of  the  Quango,  an  account  of 
which,  with  an  elaborate  map,  has  lately  been  published  in  an  English 
translation,  have  also  greatly  contributed  to  the  increased  knowledge 
of  the  same  wide  region.  North  of  the  Congo  we  have  been  recently 
interested  by  a  report,  communicated  by  Mr.  F.  Lnpton,  a  young 
Englishman,  occupying  the  post  of  Egyptian  Governor  of  the  Bahr 
Gazal  district,  of  the  existence  of  a  great  lake,  which  he  surmises  to  be 
in  the  basin  of  the  river  Welle.  Wo  are  probably  on  the  eve  of  some 
exciting  discovery  in  this  part  of  Africa,  which  is  at  present  a  blank 
on  our  maps,  the  Russian  travcllur,  Dr.  Junker,  being  at  present 
engaged  in  a  peraevering  attempt  to  solve  the  problem  of  the  course 
of  the  Welle,  in  the  course  of  which  he  will  ascertain  the  existence  of 
the  reported  new  lake.  The  Welle,  according  to  him,  is  declared  by  the 
natives  not  to  bo  a  northern  tributary  of  the  Congo,  as  beUoved  by 
some  geographers,  but  to  pour  its  waters  into  Lake  Chad. 

Further  south  and  east  the  area  of  the  unknown  central  parts  of  the 
continent  is  fast  diniiniahing  under  the  assaults  of  many  enterprising 
travellers  of  various  nationalities.  The  Belgian  cosmopolitan  station 
at  Karema,  on  Lake  Tanganyika,  is  reported  to  be  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition, and  has  l^en  reinforced  by  two  new  officers,  Messrs.  Storms  and 
Becker,  who  reached  it  in  September  last,  after  a  journey,  wonderfully 
quick  and  apparently  easy,  from  Zanzibar,  A  party  of  German  savants 
dily  oxploring   the  district  between  Karema  and  Tabora,  in 


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Uiiyaiiyembe»  from  a  permanent  station  midway  between  those  places. 
A  French  midshipman,  M.  Giraiifl,  is  on  his  way  to  com  plete  the  explora- 
tion of  Lake  Bangweolo,  tho  scene  of  Livingstone's  death.  A  steamer 
has  been  despatched,  %*ia  the  Shire  and  Lake  Nyassa,  to  be  transported 
by  Mr.  James  Stewart's  new  "  lakc-jiuiction  road  "  to  Lake  Tanganyika, 
where  Mr.  Horo  is  ready  to  put  it  together  and  launch  it  on  these 
inland  waters.  The  region  between  the  Mozambique  coast  and  Lake 
Nyassa  is  being  explored  with  most  satisfactory  accuracy  by  one  of  the 
most  skilful  of  recent  travellers,  Mr.  H.  E.  O'Neill,  consul  at  Mozambique, 
whose  work  is  supplemented  by  tho  routes  followed  in  his  solitary 
rambles  in  tho  remotest  part«  of  the  same  region  by  the  enthusiastic 
missionary  traveller  the  Eev.  W.  V.  Jobnson.  Captain  Paiva  d© 
AnJriida  has  been  surveying  the  almost  forgotten  gold  districts  north 
and  south  of  tho  lower  Zambesi ;  Mr.  F,  C.  Selous,  to  whom  we  have 
awarded  the  Cuthbert  Peek  testimonial  of  the  present  year,  is  engaged 
with  zeal  and  success  in  exploring  the  difficult  country  between  the 
Zambesi  and  the  settlements  of  the  Matabele ;  and  our  adventurous  young 
countryman,  the  Earl  of  Mayo,  has  just  returned  from  a  journey  thr»3«gh 
a  district  imperfectly  known  between  Mossamedea  and  Ovarapo  Land. 

Kegarding  the  Congo  there  is  little  to  report  of  purely  geographical 
interest;  it  is  known,  however,  that  Mr.  Stanley,  previous  to  his  late 
visit  to  Europe,  inado  a  journey  of  several  hundred  miles  beyond  Stanley 
Pool  in  a  small  steamer,  and  discovered,  up  a  tributary  stream  near  the 
junction  of  the  Quango,  a  grand  new  lake,  75  miles  in  length.  The 
lake  and  the  whole  course  of  the  main  river  up  to  that  point  were 
carefully  sun^eyed  and  mapped  ;  but  the  large  amount  of  new  material 
thus  obtained  has  not  yet  lieen  made  public. 

An  unusually  large  proportion  of  our  evening  meetings  this  session 
has  been  devoted,  as  many  of  you  will  have  been  glad  to  observe,  to 
important  papers  and  discussions  relating  to  Asia.  "\\'e  commenced  the 
session  with  Mr.  Colquhoun's  address  on  tho  subject  of  his  Irrilliant 
journey  through  the  Bouthom  provinces  of  China,  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Si-Kiang  to  the  Irawadi,  and  another  of  our  meetings  was  occupied 
by  our  gold  medallist,  Mr.  Colbome  Baber,  who  gave  tis  some  of  the 
results  of  his  observations  on  China  during  his  seventeen  years*  resi- 
dence. A  valuable  paper  on  the  Native  States  of  the  IMalay  Peninsula 
has  also  been  read  and  published ;  the  author,  Mr.  1).  D.  Daly,  giving 
tho  results  of  his  seven  years'  surveys  and  explorations,  which  add 
greatly  to  our  knowledge  of  the  interior  of  those  fertile  regions.  Four 
papers  on  different  parts  of  Western  and  Central  Asia  have  had  an 
interest  of  a  <lifferent  kind.  One  of  them  was  on  Muahketofs  ex- 
ploration of  the  Zarafshan  Glacier,  by  Mr.  Del  mar  Morgan  ;  and  another, 
M.  Lessar's  narrative  of  his  sm-veys  from  Abkabad  within  the  Afghani* 
Btan  frontier,  nearly  to  the  gates  of  Herat.  Tho  additions  to  our 
geographical  knowledge  resulting  from  this  important  survey,  and  their 


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practical  significance,  were  pointed  out  to  tho  Meeting  on  this  occa- 
Bion,  with  his  usual  lucidity,  by  Sir  Henry  Eawlinson,  and  I  need  not 
rocapitnlate  them  here  as  they  may  be  assumed  to  be  by  this  time 
generally  known  to  geographers  and  the  ijitelligent  public. 

We  have  also  had  two  papers  of  much  interest  on  Persia ;  one  giving 
tho  details  of  his  personal  surveys  in  tho  Elburz  range,  by  Colonel 
Beresford  Lovott,  and  the  other  discussing  the  subject  of  the  means  of 
communication  between  Central  Persia  and  the  sea,  by  Colonel  Cham- 
pain.  The  latter  paper  was  illustrated  by  a  series  of  route  maps,  the 
work  of  Captain  Wells,  r.e,,  which  add  materially  to  our  knowledge  of 
the  topography  of  this  part  of  Persia,  and  for  the  communication  of 
which  the  Society  and  all  geographers  are  indebted  to  Colonel  Charapain. 

Tho  work  of  the  Survey  Departniont  of  India,  under  Lieut-General 
J«  T,  Walker,  tho  official  Ecport  on  which  ha«  been  received  sinoo  my 
last  address,  includes  much  of  unusual  interest  to  geographers.  As  a 
mere  matter  of  scientific  mensuration,  tho  operations  of  the  survey  year 
1881-82  are  noteworthy,  since  they  bring  to  a  close  the  chain  of  tri- 
angles known  as  the  Eastern  frontier  series,  on  a  base-line  of  verification 
at  Mergui,  thus  finishing  the  principjil  triangulatiou  of  all  India,  It 
was  on  tho  recommendation  of  the  great  Duke  of  Wellington  (then  Col. 
Wellesloy)  that  Major  Lambton  originated  in  1800  the  survey  of  Southern 
India,  from  which  this  vast  undertaking  has  arisen — an  undertaking 
pa-fected  on  tho  lines  marked  out  by  Cokmel  Kvorest,  and  sanctioned  by 
the  East  India  Company. 

The  details  of  the  topographical  surveys  demand  also  hononrable 
notice,  from  the  fact  of  their  establishing  an  accurate  knowledge  of  no 
less  than  90S1  square  miles  of  country  surveyed  on  the  l-inch  scale, 
8G27  on  the  2-inch,  and  (i4:il  on  the  ^-inch,  besides  smaller  areas  on 
larger  scales,  and  without  reckoning  the  Village,  Riverain,  or  Forest 
•urveys,  which  cover  3197  square  miles,  or  the  Cadastral  surveys  of 
tho  North- Western  Provinces,  British  Burma,  and  Assam,  covering 
4924  square  miles. 

It  is,  however,  in  the  geographical  exploration  of  new  country 
accomplished  under  the  direction  of  General  Walker  that  we  are  mmt 
interested  ;  and  it  is  impossible  without  figures  to  form  an  idea  of  their 
eartent.  Thus  the  surveys  and  reconnaisaancos  have  resulted  in  additions 
to  the  country  already  mapped  of  2750  square  miles  on  the  Burma  and 
Manipur  boundary,  450  on  tho  Kohat  frontier,  5660  in  Baluchistan,  180  in 
East  Sikkim,  720  in  Nepal,  690  in  Til)et,  200  in  Dardistan,  and  600  in 
Kishanganga.  But  even  this  very  extensive  increase  to  our  knowledge 
of  localities  most  important  in  their  bearings  on  our  imperial  posses- 
sions in  Ilindostan  will  perhaps  be  accepted  with  less  interest  than  the 
accounts,  contained  io  General  Walker's  report,  (1)  of  tho  route  surveys 
to  tho  west  and  north  of  tho  portions  of  Sikkim  made  so  long  ago  as 
1879  by  an  employe  of  the  Educational  Department  of  Bengal,  and 


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during  1880-81  by  another  employ^  of  the  Siirvey  Department,  both  of 
which  have  been  recently  worked  out  and  mapped  by  Captain  Harman ; 
(2)  of  the  route  surveys  in  and  beyoiul  Badakshan,  in  Keshan,  Shignuo, 
and  other  districte  lierdering  the  Panjali  river  and  the  CMjllateral  affluents 

of  the  Oxus,  made  in  the  years  1878-81  by  51- 8— — ,  another  employ^ 

of  the  Sur\'ey  Department,  and  which  contribute  much  towards  filling  in 
numerous  gaps  in  the  existing  maps  of  this  region  ;  and  (3)  of  explora- 
tions over  an  extensive  area  in  Great  Tibet,  to  the  north  and  east  of  the 
regions  reached  by  the  late  Pundit  Nain  Singh,  made  by  his  pupil  and 

former  companion  A k,  whose  return  to  India  after  an  absence  of  four 

years  has  been  too  recent  to  allow  time  for  the  reduction  of  his  observa- 
tions, which  are  epitomised  in  oiir  *  rroceedings '  for  February  last,  and 
result  in  a  conviction  that  the  Sanpo  and  Irawadi  arc  not  identical.  It  is 
gratifying  to  record  that  the  two  medals  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the 
Surveyor-General  by  the  late  International  Geof^-aphical  Congress  at 
Venice  have  been  reserved  for  these  anonjTnous  explorers,  thus  worthily 
continuing  the  system  of  recognition  of  native  scientific  merit  oommenoed 
by  the  heads  of  the  Survey,  and  the  wisdom  of  which  was  fully  recog- 
nised by  this  Society  in  1877,  when  our  Patron's  medal  was  awarded  to 
Nain  Singh  for  his  great  journeys  and  surveys  on  the  northern  frontiers 
of  India. 

The  great  islands  of  the  Malay  Archipelago  and  Australasia,  which 
have  for  many  years  past  been  the  happy  hunting  grounds  of  a  succession 
of  eminent  travellers  of  various  nationalities,  attracted  by  the  apparently 
inexhaustible  wealth  of  their  zoological  and  botanical  productions,  have 
recently  acquired  a  new  interest  for  the  practical  geographer,  Tho 
pioneers  of  the  North  Borneo  Company  have  explored  tho  interior  of 
tho  nortliera  part  of  that  large  island,  defining  the  courses  of  the  rivere, 
and  gleaning  a  large  amount  of  information  regarding  tho  soil  and 
products  of  the  region.  Mr.  "Witti,  one  of  these  explorers,  unhappily 
lost  his  life  last  summer  in  an  attempt  to  reach  the  head  of  the  Sibuco 
river,  on  the  southern  boundary  of  the  company's  territories  ;  we  had  from 
time  to  time  noticed  in  our  'Proceedings*  the  chief  surveys  made  by 
this  scientific  officer.  Another,  Mr.  W.  B.  I'ryer,  has  recently  sent  to 
us,  through  Mr.  Cust,  a  descriptive  paper  on  North-East  Borneo  and 
the  Sulu  Islands  containing  much  new  information.  Mr,  Pryer,  on  one 
of  his  journeys,  proA'ud  the  non-existence  of  the  great  lake  in  the  interior 
to  the  cast  of  Mount  Kini  Balu»  which  had  been  introduced  into  our 
maps  on  vague  native  information.  The  still  larger  island  to  the  south, 
Kew  Guinea,  was  the  subject  of  discussion  atone  of  our  recent  meetings, 
when  Mr,  Wilfred  Fuwell  read  u  paper  on  his  cruise  along  1200  miles 
of  tho  north-eastern  coast.  In  the  present  scantiness  of  our  information 
regarding  this  groat  island,  now  become  so  suddenly  interesting  to 
Euglishmen,  Mr.  Powell's  description  of  the  harbours  and  the  ooust- 
oountry  at  the  various  points  whore  he  landed  was  very  welcome.    Tho 


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nonaries  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  establialied  on  the  80uth- 
eftst  coast,  have  from  time  to  time  made  short  incuraions  into  the  interior, 

iand  wo  have  just  received  from  the  Eev.  W.  G.  Lawes  an  interesting 
account  of  one  of  these  journeys,  in  which  he  was  accompanied  by  his 
•wife  and  visited  the  Rouna  falls  on  the  Laloke  river,  about  20  miles 
inland  from  Port  Moresby.  M.  Miklulcho-Maclay,  the  accomplished 
Russian  ethnologist,  who  resided  among  the  natives  for  fifteen  months 
near  Astrolabe  Bay,  visited  Europe  last  year  after  an  absence  of  twelve 
jears;  but  this  learned  traveller  has  not  yd  published  any  account  of 
hia  extensive  travels,  beyond  a  few  technical  papers  on  ethnology,  and 
be  has  now  returned  to  Sydney,  where  his  collections  are  kept,  with  the 
atention  of  working  out  his  materials  at  his  Icisiire.  * 

A  few  words  regarding  Central  and  South  America  before  I  close. 
During  last  winter  the  Society  was  favoured  with  a  paper  by  Mr.  A.  P. 
Mandfilay  on  his  explorations  and  discoveries  in  Guatemala,  during 
which  he  disinterred  from  the  depths  of  the  forest  on  the  Usumaciuta 
iver  a  group  of  buildings  belonging  to  the  old  Indian  era,  which  had  not 
fpreviously  been  examined.  His  plana,  meaaurements,  and  photogi-aphs, 
and  specimens  of  the  sculptured  slabs  were  laid  before  us,  only  to  excite 

I  a  lively  desire  to  know  more  of  the  life  of  that  ancient  peoplo  who  have 
left  us  such  wonderful  proofs  of  their  architectural  and  artistic  skill, 
Mr.  Maudslay  considei's  that  he  is  only  at  the  commencement  of  his 
studies,  and  has  long  ago  returned  to  Guatemala,  with  larger  means  of 
study  than  he  had  on  his  former  visit ;  we  last  hear  of  him  as  busily 
employed,  with  his  assistants,  in  taking  casts  of  the  sculptures  at 
Quirigu4.  New  contributions  to  our  knowledge  of  South  America  have 
been  f\imished  by  Mr.  R.  Blake  White,  in  his  paper  descriptive  of  the 
Central  and  Western  Provinces  of  Colombia ;  by  Dr.  Edwin  K.  Ileatli, 
in  the  account  of  his  exploration  of  the  river  Beni,  carried  out  under 
discouraging  circumstances  with  wonderful  courage  and  perseverance ; 
and  by  Mr.  Minchin,  in  his  survey  of  the  Bolivian  plateau  in  the 
neighbourhtKxl  of  Lake  Poopo  and  the  outlets  to  the  drainage  of 
Titicaca. 

Mr.  Markham  has  given  us  a  lucid  summary  of  the  work  of  explorers 

I  in  the  basin  of  the  Bcni  from  the  time  of  the  later  lnc4)8  to  the  present 
day.  The  fluvial  geography  of  this  part  of  the  South  American  interior, 
as  clearly  pointed  out  by  Colonel  Church  in  the  discussion  on  the  reading 
of  Mr.  Markham's  paper,  has  an  important  bearing  on  the  commerce  and 
prosjK-rity  of  those  regions,  and  thus  ought  to  have  great  interest  for 
j>ractical  men.  I  cannot  pass  from  this  subject  without  expressing  our 
regret,  as  geographers,  at  the  untimely  death  of  the  enterprising  French 
traveller.  Dr.  Crevaux,  who  was  conducting  an  expedition  up  the 
^^  Pilcomayo,  with  the  intention  of  passing  from  the  t^ad  waters  of  that 
^BTiver  to  one  of  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  Amazons.  The  atlas, 
^^  of  South  American  rivers,  in  40  sheets,  published  since  his  death,  from 


S86 


THE  ANNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROORELSS  OF  GEOORAPHV. 


tie  BurveyB  matle  during  his  various  journeys,  forms  another  impoi 
contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  the  interior  of  this  continent.  Lastly, 
I  must  record  the  return  of  Lieut.  Bove  and  his  colleagues,  of  the 
Italian  Antarctic  expedition,  who  have  been  exploring  to  good  purpose 
Southern  Patagonia,  and  a  part  of  Tierra  del  Fuego.  An  account  of  their 
travels  and  researches  was  laid  before  the  Italian  Geographical  Society 
last  springs  and  hiis  been  published  in  the  BollcUno  of  the  Society. 

Captain  Sir  Frederick  Evans,  the  Hydrograplior,  has  kindly  supplier! 
me  with  the  following  summarj'  of  tho  work  of  his  department  during 
the  year : — 

The  Admiralty  Surveys  for  1882,  in  addition  to  those  in  progress  on 
^he  coasts  of  tho  United  Kingdom,  were  continued  in  the  Red  Sea  and 
Indian  Ocean ;  also  in  Western  Australia,  on  the  coasts  of  CJorea  and 
Japan,  and  among  the  Fiji  and  Solomon  Islands  in  tho  Pacific  Ocean. 
In  South  America,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  Piute  and  Magetlati 
Strait.  At  the  Bahama  Islands  in  the  West  Indies,  and  on  the  south 
coast  of  Newfoundland.  These  surveys  required  the  servicos  of  76 
officers  and  nearly  600  men,  distributed  among  four  slooj^s  of  war  and 
seven  smaller-class  vessels. 

Among  tho  more  important  results  are — that  in  the  Red  Sea,  the 
Zebayir  Islands,  Jebol  Teir,  Mokha,  with  its  off-lying  shoals,  hare  been 
charted,  connected  with  each  other,  and  also  the  Hanish  Islands  and 
Aden,  by  many  chronometrical  distances.  In  the  Indian  Ocean,  iha 
Amirante  Islands,  and  the  banks  of  soundings  on  which  they  rest,  deh- 
neated  to  the  100-fathoms'  edge ;  and  the  islandH  Alphonse,  Providence, 
St.  Pierre,  Glorioso,  all  dependencies  of  Mam-itius,  examined  and 
accurately  determined  in  position  relatively  to  each  other,  azul  with 
Seychelles,  Mauritius,  and  Mozambique.  In  Western  Australia  useful 
work  has  been  performed  in  clearing  away,  after  exhaustive  search,  the 
reported  reefs  Beaver  and  Rambler,  tho  latter  a  great  bugbear  to  vessels 
rounding  the  prominent  headland  Capo  Leeuwin. 

In  Japan,  the  south-east  coast  of  Kitisiu  has  been  completed  between 
Odomari  Bay  and  Kay  eta  Saki ;  tho  east  coast  of  Nipon,  between  the 
Gulf  of  Tokio  and  Ohigaai  Saki. 

In  Corea,  large  additions  have  been  made  to  tho  charts  of  the 
southern  and  western  seaboard  of  this  great  peninsulti.  On  the  fonutrr, 
an  examination  of  that  part  extending  from  the  Japanese  treaty-port  of 
Fusan  in  the  south-east,  westward  to  Horschel  Island,  a  distance  of 
about  90  miles,  was  made,  and  some  useful  harbours  and  anchorages 
charted.  On  tho  west  coast  surveying  operations  were  carried  out  in 
the  more  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  capital-town  Seoul,  in  ord«r 
to  determine  suitable  anchorage  for  a  treaty-port.  Jinchuen  or  Inchon, 
on  tho  mainland,  forming  a  part  of  what  is  known  as  the  Salee  river, 
offered  the  greatest  advantages,  and  its  approaches  from  soaword,  near 
the  labyrinth  of  islands  charted  as  Prince  Imperial  Archipelago,  weru 


I 


THE  AXNUAL  ADDRESS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  r.tOGRAPHV. 


387 


nined  in  some  preliminary  detail ;  the  service  embraced  a  survey  of 
Sir  James  Hall  group. 

The  survey  of  Flores  Island,  English  and  Archimedes  banks,  and  the 

■  extansive  shoal  ground  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  Plate,  a  meaauro 

uQoh  required  in  the  interests  of  navigation,  has  been  nearly  completed. 

f^In  Magellan  Strait  much  nseftil  work  has  been  carried  out  near  the 

Lw^em  entrance. 

Connected  with  the  transit  of  Venus  in  this  year»  the  surveying  ship 
?aum  rendered  essential  sei-vice,  conveying  the  observing  party  from  the 
Dkpe  of  Good  Hope  to  St.  Augustine  Bay  in  Madagascar,  and  back,  her 
taking  part  in  the  observations  necessary,  as  well  a«  nuking 
eys  of  the  coast  in  the  neighbourhood. 
To  this  record  of  facts   and  events,  which  prove  beyond  doubt  or 
cavil  that  the  study  of  practical  and  scientific  geography  is  being  proso- 

Pcuted  with  an  ardour  and  energy  never  exceeded  in  any  age  of  the  world, 
let  me  venture  to  express  the  confident  Iwlief  that  this  Society,  sustained 
•s  it  is  and  has  been,  by  men  of  varied  knowledge  and  eameut  interest  in 
its  success,  has  not  in  any  way  degenerated  in  tJio  three  years  during 
which  I  have  been  permitted  to  enjoy  the  high  privilege  of  presiding 
E>ver  its  CounciL  I  cannot  speak  with  gratitude  too  warm  of  tlie  cordial 
ipport  I  have  received  from  those  eminent  men  and  officials,  on  whose 
loufl  co-operation  in  the  promotion  of  ita  interests  the  character  of 
Ithe  Society  mainly  depends ;  and  I  am  very  sensible  of  the  efficient 
apport  I  have  ever  experienced  on  all  public  occasions  from  the  entire 
iy  of  our  Fellows,  and  of  their  kindly  allowance  for  my  many  deficien- 
l^ies.  During  all  that  time,  neither  at  the  Council-board,  nor  in  this 
'  liall,  the  scene  of  our  public  meetings,  has  there  been  the  slightest  inter- 
ruption of  harmony. 

The  meetings  have  been  numerously  attended,  the  papers  read  and 

the  dificuBsions  following  have  often  been  of  the  highest  interest,  some- 

times  touching  on  burning  questions,  as  to  ^vhieh  much  strong  and  inevit- 

^  able  differences  of  opinion  existed,  but  on  all  these  occasions  the  respect 

^■for  our  character  as  a  purely  scientific  Listitution  prevailed  in  preserving 

the  most  perfect  order,  good  humour,  aud  mutual  consideration. 

I  had  hoped  to  be  succeeded  in  my  high  and  interesting  office  by  a 

nohlo  friend,   whose  high  herotlitary  claims  to  the    respect  and  confi- 

^  deuce  of  his  countrymen,  have  been  fully  sustained  by  his  own  ability, 

ndcpondenco  of  character,  and  genuine  interest  in  all  that  concerns  the 

itellectual  advancement  of  his  countrj^.      But  a  jealous  Government, 

R-hich  had  already  robbed  us  of  a  Tiipon,  a  Dufferin,  and  a  Northbrook, 

las  repeated  its  offence  by  depriving  us  of  the  sei-vices  of  Lord  Laus- 

iowne  at  the  very  threshold  of  his  presidential  career,  by  summoning 

lim  to  preside  over  the  constitutional  government  of  that  great  group  of 

■lonies,  of  whose  growing  prosp^jrity  and  greatness  we  are  all  so  proud. 

Tot  your  sake  I  am  heartily  sorry.     But  the  post  of  President  of  this 


888 


OBITUARY  FOR  THE  YEAR  1882-3. 


Society  i«  one  -which  can  never  fail  to  attract  men  worthy  of  occupjriDg  it, 
worthy  of  promoting^  with  all  tho  talents  and  energy  they  poaaess, 
the  interestB  of  a  science  which  exercises  so  powerful  a  faacioation  over 
the  best  minds  of  our  age  and  country. 


OBITUARY  FOR  THE  YEAR  1882-3. 

As  stated  In  the  Council  Report,  the  losses  the  Society  has  sustained  by  death 
during  the  year  ending  on  the  30th  of  April,  were  54.  Among  the  DDmber  were 
many  w!io  had  gained  high  distinction  as  travellers,  or  for  their  works  on  Geography, 
and  in  accoidance  with  the  custom  now  established  for  some  ycars^  sketches  of  the 
caxecTi  of  these  have  appeared  at  the  time  of  their  deaths  in  our  monthly  *  Proceedingi.* 
In  this  way  obituary  notices  have  already  l:ieen  given  of  Jlr.  Wm.  Desbobottgh 
CooLBY  ;  Captain  W.  J.  Gill,  r.e.  ;  Mr.  Thos.  AVoodbike  Hixchliff;  Mr.  W.  IL 
JoHjtBON,-  Admiral  Count  F.  B.  Lutke;  Sir  Woodbine  Parish,  K.c.n.,  f.b.*.;  ' 
Mr.  John  Pe therick  ;  Commander  Wyatt  Rawsok,  r.x.  ;  and  Mr.  J.  M-  ZiEGLtu. 
But  our  losses  also  include  many  members  who,  though  not  geographers,  wero  eminent 
in  various  ways.    Their  names  are  here  piven  in  alphabetical  order  : — 

Captain  L.  N.  F.  Ames-Lyde,  j.r.  -,  Mr.  Alex.  Duxlop  Anderson  ;  Mr.  Oeoeqe 
Abtisostall;  Mr.  Charles  de  la  Barre  Bodenham,  of  Rotherwas  Park,  Here-  j 
fordshire,  who  was  widely  known  and  respected  in  the  Roman  Catholic  communily, 
and  occupied  the  post  of  Deputy-Lieu  tenant  for  his  county;  Mr.  Johs  Bowies;  the  | 
Rev.  G.  Adgustus   Bright-Smith;    Mr.   Hichard   Buowk,   c.e.;    Sir  Edward  | 
Mannlnouam  Bcller,  Bart.,  M.r.,  who  entered  Parliamont  as  member  for  Xorrh 
StafiFordshire  in  18^3,  and  served  that  constituency  and  subswiuently  that  of  tie 
borough  uf  Stafford  for  a  long  scries  of  years ;  Mr,  Edward  Cazalet,  of  Fairlawn, , 
Kent,  who  died  on  the  21st  of  April,  at  Constantinople.  He  had  been,  before  aettlmg  j 
in  Kent,  one  of  the  leading  English  incrcbanls  in  St.  Petersburg,  and  of  late  yeara 
became  known  to  the  general  pul>lic  for  bis  advocacy  of  tho  Euphrates  Valley  Rail- 
w^ay  scheme;  his  views  on  the  question  bdng  promulgated  in  various  pamphlets^ 
dealing  more  with  the  political  than  with  the  geographical  af{>ects  of  the  subject,  hi 
1881,  be  sent  an  agent  to  Constantino|)l6  with  a  view  to  secure  a  concession  from  the  . 
Sultan  in  proeiK'Ct  of  a  railway  uniting  the  Mediterranean  with  the  Persian  Gulf,  j 
and  in  1882  visited  Berlin,  where  he  w:vs  presented  to  the   Crown  Prince  oud 
Princess,  before  whom  ho  hid  his  Echcme  for  the  construction  uf  the  railway.  Itwui 
while  on  a  visit  to  Constantinople,  made  for  the  purpose  of  laying  his  vievn*  per8on-| 
ally  before  tho  Sultan,  that  he  died,  last  month,  from  typhoid  fever.     Mr.  Johs 
Chevalier  Codbold,  Member  of  ParliameDt  for  Ipswich  from  1847  to  18G8 ;  Mr. 
Charles  Coles;  Sir  Joseph  William  Copley,  Bart.;   Captain  L.  R.  Eluot;  Mr. 
TnosJAS  Falcoxer;  Mr.  W.  F.  Forde.s;    Mr.   Robert  Herbert  Galswobtht;, 
Colonel  J.  0.  Gawler,  Keeper  of  the  Regalia  at  the  Tower  of  Lcmdon,  an  offio 
who  had    distinguishod    himself  iu    foreign  service   in  various    countries;    Liil 
f^ither  was  the  Colonel  Gawler,  formerly  Governor  of  South  Australia,  after  whom  J 
the  imi>ortant  town   of  Gawler,  near  Adelaide,  was  namtd ;   Mr.   T.  L.   Gooch^ 
ilr.  Frederick  Solly  Gosling  ;    tho  Right  Hon.  the  Earl  of  Harrovtby,   K.o,f 
r.R.B.,  the  eminent  statesman,  who  died  on  the  20th  of  November.      He  had  been  k  < 
Fellow  of  our  Society  since  1838  and  had  served  twice  on  the  Council,  in  1847  andj 
185C.     Mr.  Samuel  HEYWOt>D;  Major  T.  M.  rtiTL-HiNs,  r.a.;  Mr.  James  Husox- 
MoRE,  M.A.,  a  traveller  in  various  countries,  who  died  at  tho  early  age  of  39. 
had  resided  for  a  long  time  .at  or  near  Landaua,  on  the  Loango  coast,  and  explored! 
the  zoology  and  botany  of  the  neighbourhood.    Mr,  Hugh  Francis  Ikgkamj   Mi 


RUSSIAN-  GEOGRAPHr. 


389 


SOMAS  Jaoomb  ;  Mr.  Chables  jEiiLi<:oE ;    Rev.  W.  Tayloh  Jones,  ila.  ;   Lieut.- 
JonN  Labdkes,  a  veteran  of  the  first  Burmese  and  Crimean  wars,  who  died  on 
'tbe  25th  of  September,  at  the  age  of  76  years;  Mr.  Daniel  MacKinlay;  Mr. 
PHUjr  Mklville,  r.n.A.s.,  a  dieting iiisbeJ  official  of  the  Indian  Government,  who 
had  held  for  many  yearu  the  post  of  Secretary  to  the  Board  of  Administration  for  the 
alfjurs  of  the  Punjab;   Major-General  J.  E.  Mitchell,  <if  the  Royal  Artillery,  an 
officer  who  had  served  in  the  wars  of  the  Crimea  and  the  Indian  Mutiny,  command- 
ing the  Artillery  at  the  relief  of  A7*imghur  and  many  other  engagements;   Mr. 
Adolph  Mosenthal  ;   Admiral  Matthew  S.  NoLiiOTH,  who  hsul  contributed  to  the 
literature  of  travel  by  his  *  Notes  during  a  Cruise  in  the  Mozambique,*  published  in 
1857;   Mr.  Edward   HAMn>Tox  Pbingle;    Dr.    ABTHan  G.   Reid;  Mr.  John 
RuTHEBFOBD ;    Major  H.  B.  Savory  ;  Mr.  Henby  Stade,  Fleet  Surgeon,  Royal 
Navy ;  Sir  John  Su ale,  late  Chief  Justice  of  Hong  Kong ;  Mr.  William  Rnooke  ; 
Mr.  James  Lowther   Southey  ;    Mr.    William   Symisoton  ;    Lord  Talbot  de 
Malahide,  F.E.S.,  the  eminent  antiquarian  and  President  of  the  Koyal  Archajo- 
logical   Institute,   who  died  at  Funchal,  Madeira,  last  month  ;     BIr.   Axthont 
Tbollope,  the  celebmtc<i  novelist,  who  having  attended  one  of  our  Evening  Meettnga 
(January  14th,  1878),  when  the  subject  of  the  Transvaal  was  discussed,  and  spoken 
jxx  tbe  occasion,  joined  the  Society  as  a  Fellow,     His  pleasantly  written  and  instruc- 
books  on  Australia  and  New  Zealand  (2  vols.,  1873),  and  on  South  Africa 
1878),  entitle  him  to  honourable  mention  as  a   traveller  and  geographer.    Mr. 
EXBY  Tudor  ;  Mr.  Henry  Woods  ;  and  Mr.  Ciiaklks  Babixo  Youvo. 

BepoH  on  Rtuuan  Geography  for  the  Fear* — From  the  Oichi^  (annual  report)  of 
be  Russian  Geographical  Society  for  1882  wc  learn  with  regret  the  death  of  Ivan 
Peodorovitch  Kamensky,  the  pioneer  of  Russian  trade  with  Central  Asia.  Partner  in 
[the  welUknown  firm  of  Kamensky  Brothers,  he  at  first  managed  the  Siberian  branch 
lof  their  bosineas,  establishing  himself  at  Tomsk.  Tlience  he  removed  to  Kuldja, 
lirliere  he  had  dealings  with  the  Chinese.  Entering  into  a  contract  to  supply  their 
»nny  then  about  to  advance  and  re-occupy  Hi,  be  displayed  excellent  powers  of 
organtaition  in  collecting  means  of  transport  in  a  country  so  deficient  in  iwpulation 
as  Scmir^tchia.  Undaunted  by  diflicuHiei?,  Kamensky  would  have  fulfilled  his  con- 
tract had  not  the  p<jUcy  of  the  Russian  Government  suddenly  changed.  They 
became  as  anxious  to  prevent  supplies  reaching  the  Chinese  as  they  had  formerly 
been  eager  to  assist.  Thwarted  and  baflled  in  bis  plans,  Kamensky  found  that  ho 
hvl  fallen  between  two  stools,  for  with  another  turn  of  affairs  the  Russiau  Govern- 
ment decided  to  press  claims  brought  by  the  Chinese  against  the  victim  of  their 
vacillating  policy.  Kamensky  was  completely  ruined.  Having  sent  bock  to  Siberia 
his  wife  and  family,  he  remained  at  Kuldja,  a  kind  of  state  prisoner,  waiting  the 
pleeaure  of  his  Imperial  ma.ster,  whom  he  vainly  sought  to  move  in  his  favour. 

•  Under  these  misfortunes  hia  health  broke  down,  and  on  the  12-24 th  D©c*em>»cr  last 
year  he  ended,  at  Pishpek  in  Turkislan,  hia  brief  but  active  career.    Kamensky  was 
nut  «»nly  distinguished  aa  an  enterprising  and  active  merchant,  able  to  plan  schemes 
and  carry  them  into  effect,  but  ns  a  lover  of  science  and  patron  of  learning.   In  1800 
founded,  at  an  expense  of  40,000  roubles,  wholly  defrayed  by  himself,  an  agri- 
tiiral  achool  at  Tomsk,  of  the  utmost  utility  for  the  class  of  peasant  proprietors 
whose  wants  it  vras  designed.     He  also  assisted  in  several  scientific  expeditions. 
For  substantial  aid  furnished  by  him  to  Potanin'a  expedition  to  Mongolia  in  1879, 
the  Russian  Geographical  Society  awarded  him  their  diploma  of  honorary  corre- 
sponding member.    His  enemies  might  accuse  him  of  belog  unpractical  &ud  a 

*  By  E.  Delmar  Morgan,  f.b.cs. 


and 


890 


RUSSIAN  GEOGRAPHT. ; 


•visionary,  but  nobody  ever  qaestionod  the  strict  integrity  and  nobility  of  fm|Mw 
Ivan  Feodorovitcb  Kamensky, 

Of  Hussiau  expeditions  io  1882  to  explore  various  parts  of  the  empire  and 
adjacent  territories,  the  following  are  noticed  in  the  report: — ^Two  Polar  expeditioni, 
under  the  command  respectively  of  Lieutenant  Jiirgens  and  M.  Andr^ief ;  astrooo. 
mical  observations  in  Novaya  Zemlya  by  Fuss ;  Regel'ti  travels  in  Parair  ;  and  Le«ttr« 
famous  journey  from  Askabad  to  Merv.  In  the  district  of  Batum,  Petersen  haj  been 
travelling  for  scientific  |xirposea,  and  Kutissian  has  investigated  prehistoric  remaioi 
in  the  Caucasus.  Lastly,  m  European  Ru8s.ia,  Malakhof  and  Ivanitzky  have  b«o 
exploring  the  Ural  range  ;  Prince  Putiatine  has  worked  at  the  anthropology  of  tlu 
government  of  Tver;  Voltaire  La,s  pursued  Lettish  ethnology  in  the  Govemmect  of 
Vitebsk ;  Kuzuet^of  has  continued  his  labours  in  order  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  tb« 
trade  in  the  Western  Provinces,  and  Yelisgelef  haa  visited  remote  parts  of  HuMoaQ 
Lapbnd  in  order  to  become  ac*iuainted  with  the  inhabitants  on  the  littoral  of  Lake 
Ebuareh. 

The  most  important  of  all  these  undertakinga  is  undoubtedly  the  estAbUshment 
of  Polar  Stations,  to  which  the  Imperial  Geographical  fcioclety  has  paid  ffpedal 
attention. 

Of  the  Russian  station  at  the  mouth  of  the  Lena,  the  most  re^.'eut  newg  was 
brought,  as  already  recorded  in  the  *  Proceedingg,'  by  two  American  officers,  Messrs. 
Schulze  and  Harber.  The  parly  under  Lieutenant  Jiirgena  were  joined  at  Yakatfik 
by  MM.  Buage  and  Eichner.  They  descended  the  Lena  in  three  light-draughl 
vessels  called  pauzi  and  one  karlniss  or  boat,  and  were  fifty  days  in  accomplishing 
the  voyage  to  their  destination,  the  island  of  Sagastyr,  which  they  reached  on  the 
22nd  August,  having  experienced  a  storm  off  Tuz-ara,  which  obliged  them  to  land 
and  repair  their  boats.  All  the  instniments  were  saved,  and  liic  station  vru 
equipi>eJ,  as  already  stated,  in  the  most  complete  manner. 

The  second  Russiiin  expedition  proceeded  to  Malo  Karmakulsky  Bay,  in  Noraya 
Zemlya,  viit  Archangel.  The  place  selected  for  their  station  was  the  same  in  which 
Lieutenant  Tiagin  passed  the  winter  of  1879-80,  and  whare  buildings  had  been 
erected  by  the  Society  for  Saving  Life  at  Sea.  These  w^ere  placed  at  the  disponal  <rf 
the  ubservers  by  this  Society.  M.  Audrdief's  associates  were  Midshipman  Volod- 
kofsky  and  Dr.  Grunevetzky  of  the  Uth  battalion  of  Turkiatan  infantry.  The 
weather  ou  their  arrival  at  Novaya  Zemlya  was  unuBuaOy  warm,  the  temperatuxv  on 
the  evening  of  their  first  day  there,  ith  August,  bdng  6G°  Fahr.,  and  though  it 
became  cooler  the  following  day,  yet  in  spite  of  a  fog  the  thermometer  registered 
610. 

Of  the  other  Polar  stationB  some  particulars  are  given.  Thus  Professor  Lematwm, 
of  the  Finland  station,  undertook  to  conduct  observations  in  person  till  November 
1882,  when  he  was  to  be  relieved  by  his  assistant.  This  party  of  obeervew,  bel 
starting,  visited  the  Pavlofsky  *  Observatory,  and  practised  the  use  of  instrnmentSr 
Professor  Lemstrem  speaks  weU  of  the  impression  produced  upon  him  and  bis 
associates  by  this  observatory,  of  the  excellent  instruments  and  able  direction  di> 
tinguishing  this  institution.  Intimately  associated  with  tho  Polar  station  on  Xovnva 
Zemlyn  was  the  journey  thither  undertaken  by  Fuss  of  the  Cronstadt  Naval  Obser- 
vatory, in  order  to  determine  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  Malo  Karmakul.  He 
started  from  Archangel  on  the  19th  July  with  Lieutenant  Andr^iefs  expedition  on 


I 
I 


I 


*  Favlofsky  is  a  favourite  summer  resort  of  the  wealthier  classes  of  Ht  Fetcxaborg. 
The  observatory  referred  to  in  the  text  was  recently  establbhed  in  the  grounds  < 
Grand  Duke  Constantinc'ci  Hummer  palace. 


RUSSIAN  GKOGKAPUr. 


891 


stoftioer  belonging  to  the  Murmansky  Company  and  reached  Novnya  Zemlya  on 
J  the  fourth  day,  having  stopped  for  twelve  hours  at  Kanin  Noss  (Cape  Kanin)  to 
I  rectify  auy  possible  error  in  the  position  of  this  place.  His  observations  were 
liavotired  by  exceptionally  fine  weather,  and  maybe  considered  completely  RicceasfuL 
rTheir  results  are  to  alter  the  latitude  of  Malo  Karmakul  7\  while  the  lon^tude 
IruixMins  nearly  the  same,  tlms : — 


FiiM's  del«niilnatioQ. 

LaUtnde     72°  22' 37" 

lim.  tnin.     mc. 
Longitude  from  Greenwich    3    30    50*4 


PUa  of  Halo  Kjunukulaky  Sutloo. 
72*=  30'  10" 

hre.  mill.     »ec 
3    SO    49*7 


l^iia   the  position  of    the  Russian  station  has  been  ascertained  with  sufficient 
[•ocuracy  to  meet  the  objects  of  the  Polar  expedition. 

The  journey  of  D.  N.  Anuchin  to  the  Caucasus  in  co-operation  with  the  Geo- 
Igniphicjil  and  ArclifeolojL^ical  iSocietics  of  Mof-cow  and  St.  Petersburg  had  for  its 
I  chief  object  the  iuvestigiuiou  of  the  caves  of  Dnghestan  in  onler  to  discover  stone 
iimploniciit^.  The  results  of  his  researches,  in  the  course  of  which  he  opened  several 
^tnoun'is  and  visited  some  places  of  sacrifice,  were  of  a  negative  character.  He  found 
nothing  but  beads  and  other  ornaments  inducing  the  belief,  which  he  shared  with 
earlier  explorers,  that  this  region  was  settled  by  man  at  a  late  metal  epoch.  But  the 
excursions  of  M.  Malakhof  in  the  Ural  were  more  productive.     In  the  district  of 

Ilrbit,  never  previously  explored,  he  found  on  the  eastern  flank  of  the  Ural  a  prehistoric 
eave  or  **  kitchen  remains  "  not  far  from  the  town  of  Irbit.  On  the  rivers  Irbit  und 
Sej  he  found  foesll  remains  of  animals,  and  a  cave  with  hieroglyphic  drawings  in  red 
on  rocks  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Irbit  near  the  village  of  Pisanetz.  Previous  exca- 
vations made  here  by  treasure* seekers  had  brought  to  light  bones  of  animals  and 
•tone  implements. 

M.  Mulakhof  also  txcavatcxi  n  limestone  cave  in  the  valley  of  the  Miass  above 
the  works,  and  found  at  a  depth  of  a  to  6  feet,  imbedded  in  clay,  bones  tif  bears  and 
Ideer  for  the  most  juirt  split  lengthways,  and  among  them  stone  and  bone  implements. 
lETerything  tended  to  show  that  this  cave  was  inhabited  in  prehistoric  times  by  a 
[people  whose  weapons  were  of  stone.     In  the  valley  of  the  Miass  M.  Mahikhof  also 
f  found,  nearVorobiovi  (Sparrow)  Hills,  stone  etiificcs,  circular  and  square-shaped,  with 
entrances.     They  were  three  feet  aUive  the  ground  and  bore  a  resemblance  to  those 
vered  by  Potanin  in  North- West  Mongolia,  known  under  the  name  of  kcmhur. 
hkirs  have  fragmentary  traditions  concerning  them  to  the  effect  that  they 
rePB  stations  of  Khans  or  Hordes.    M.  Malakhof  also  visited  the  district  of  Ekaterin- 
'  Imi^  and  made  a  large  collection  of  schistose  implements  from  the  overlying  peat  oa 
the  north-eastern  shore  of  Lake  Ayalsk y,  together  with  omamenteil  clay  vessels. 

Almost  simultaneously  with  these  discoveries  M.  Ivanitzky  was  engaged  upon 

natural   history  researches.     M.  N.  A.  Ivanitzky  is  an  inhabitant  of  Vologhda, 

[^ endowed  with  excellent  powers  of  observation  which  he  has  developed  by  scientific 

raining.     He  had  formerly  made  an  excursion  to  Pechora,  and  wrote  an  account  of 

rnoy  entitled  *  From  Vologhda  to  Pechora,'  which  he  presented  in  MS.  to  the 

uphical  Society,  and  which  received  high  commendation. 

His  preliminary  acquaintance  with  the  Pechora  region  roused  in  him  a  desire  to 
Facquaint  himself  more  closely  with  it.  Accordingly,  last  summer  he  started  afresh, 
expecting  to  be  away  a  longer  time.  But  the  lateness  of  the  season  and  deep  snows 
,  int^fercd  with  his  plans  and  he  was  obliged  to  defer  his  visit  to  another  year. 
I  Instead  of  proceeding  to  the  far  North  he  went  to  Perm  and  so  entered  the  Ural 
f-whera  he  botanistd  diligently,  occupying  the  rest  of  bis  time  in  collecting  the 


892 


RUSSIAN  SURVEYS  IN  THE  TRANS-CASPUN  REO'lOX 


popular  Bongs  of  the  Government  of  Vologhda.     These  he  has  traosmiUei  to  Uv 
Society. 

Lastly,  Prince  Putiatine  has  fiiscovcrcd  near  Lake  Bologofsky  remains  wljtcli 
prove  coDclusively  the  existence  there  of  a  peoplei  of  tliti  Stone  Age  who  may  U; 
classed  among  the  »o-called  "  hunters  of  the  riverine  gravel  period."  They  lived  in 
subterranean  dwelling-places,  and  the  climate  surrounding  them  was,  judging  from 
their  implements,  &c.,  a  severe  one.  They  appear  to  have  liad  no  domeitieated 
animals  such  as  dogs  or  horses. 

lifUisian  Surveys  in-  the  Trans- Caspian  Ttcgion  and  Trans- Cancnsia, — Diuing 
the  year  1882  the  Caucasian  section  of  the  Russian  Military  Toj^graphical  Depart- 
ment executed  the  following  work: — 

In  the  Trans-Caspian  region  a  wide  belt  of  country  was  surveyed  and  mapped  for 
a  distance  of  592  versts,  on  the  scale  of  two  verats  to  an  inch,  from  Chikishlar  by 
way  of  Chat  to  Sarakhs.    This  will  afibrd  n  complete  basis  for  the  delineation  of  the 
frontier  line  between  Russia  and  Persia.     In  the  vicinity  of  the  Atek  astrouomical 
observations  were  much  retarded  by  thick  mists  which  frequently  occur  betweeo 
June  and  September.     Among  the  astronomical  tasks  completed  during  the  yttt 
are  the  determination  of  the  longitude  of  Tiflis  and  Kostufi"  on  the  Don,  the  extreme 
point  of  telegraphic  determination  in  European  Russia,  a  work  which  joined  the 
telegraphic  and  astronomical  determinations  in  the  Caucasus  with  those  node  in 
Russia  proper.     The  work  executed  by  tho  Turkistan  section  of  the  Military  Topo- 
graphical  DL'partuient  includes  a  survey  from  Kungrad  to  the  Gulf  of  Mertvy-  I 
kulduk.    This  work  was  undertaken,  by  Colonel   Alexandroflf  with  the  object  of 
ascertaining  how  far  the  road  from  Kungrad  to  the  Bay  of  Yaman-Airakty,  on  the 
Caspian,  was  practicable  for  wheeled  vehicles.    From  Kungrad  to  the  ascent  at  the 
Tchink  the  water  supply  is  sufficient  for  travellers,  but  thence  to  the  wells  uf 
Tabyn-3U  there  is  a  waterless  tract  for  .1  distance  of  135  vcrsts.     Beyond  that  i>oint 
water  ia  again  plentiful.     The  construction  of  a  landing-stage  in  the  Bay  of  Yatnan- 
Airakty  is  quite  practicable.    Whether  it  is  possible  for  steamers  to  enter  Mertvy- 
Iculduk  and  approach  the  Bay  of  Yaman-Airakty,  Colonel  Aloxandrofif  does  not 
mention.     M.  Kossiakoff,  who  was  attached  to  Dr.  Rcgels  scientific  expedition  to 
Darwaz  and  Shignan,  left  Penjkent  on  the  4th  July  (O.S.).   At  Hissar,  Dr.  RegetJ 
chose  tho  mountainous  road  to  Baljiian,  while  M.  Kossiakoff  descended  the  river^ 
Kara-Tag  to  the  town  of  Kubadian,  whence,  by  way  of  Kuran-tupe  and  Kuliab,  he 
reached  Kala-i-Khurak     From  this  jwint  M.  Kossiak^»ft'  pursued  his  explorations  ^ 
up  the  course  of  the  Panj  to  Fort  Wanj  and  for  some  distance  Ixjyond.    Returning  i 
Kftla-i-Khumb,  he  proceeded  northwards  to  Fort  Tavildara  on  the  river  Waksh 
(HuUiaa)  and  up  that  stream  to  Kurgan  Lajur.    After  having  explored  the  Dpp 
course  of  tho  Ak-su  (Doaba  Dara  of  Indian  Survey  Refwrt)  river,  M.  Kossiakofl"  luid^ 
Dr.  Regel  entertained  the  hope  of  heing  able  to  explore  Shiguan,  but  owing  to  the  long 
delay  in  obtaining  the  necessary  |3ermission  from  the  king  of  Shignau  the  scheme  ' 
abandoned,  and  Kossiakoflf  falling  ill,  was  compelled  to  hasten  his  return  to  Samar 
kand.    Proceeding  from  Kala-i-Khuinb  to  Talvar  (?  Tavildara)  down  the  river  Ak-eul 
to  Fort  Sarypul,  and  further  tu  Baljuan,  Dushambe,  Delmau,  and  Baisun,  M.  Kos-l 
Biakoff  continued  his  survey  to  Yar-tupe,  where,  in  conseLiueuce  of  the  state  of  hit  j 
health,  he  was  compelled  to  abandon  the  work  and  proceed  to  Samarkand.     Bi«J 
rout^j-survey  extends  over  about  1400  versta  of  ground.    A  good  deal  of  this  survey! 

covers  tho  western  part  of  tlie  work  done  by  M S ,  General  Walker's  Dative] 

explorer,  and  the  two  combined  will  be  found  to  throw  much  new  light  on  Uie 
geography  of  Badakhshan. 


(    393    ) 


^cr 


^he 


Journey  in  the  District  West  of  Cape  Dtlgado  Bay,  Sejpt.-Oct.  1882. 

By  H.  E.  O'Neill,  H.M.  Consul,  Mozambique. 

Map,  p.  U9* 

N  August  last  I  was  informed  by  a   high    Portuguese  authority  at 

Mozambique  that  there  were  good  reasons  to  suspect  a  trade  in  slaves 
friDui  Tunghi  Bay,  south  of  Cape  Delgado.  Having  some  time  previous 
to  this  gained  the  pennission  of  the  Foreign  Office  to  visit  the  northern 
Tts  of  the  province  of  Mozambique,  I  determined  to  use  the  oppor- 
[iunity  this  journey  would  aflbrd  me,  to  make  an  examination  of  tlio 

istiicts  bordering  that  bay,  in  order  to  discover,  as  far  as  possible,  the 
foundation  for  the  suspicions  mentioned   to  rac ;    feeling  sure  that  I 

luuld  be  excused  an  extension  of  my  journey,  if  by  it  I  could  add  in  any 
ij  to  onr  knowledge  of  the  working  of  the  slave  trade,  and  thereby 

id,  in  however  small  a  degree,  the  efforts  of  Ixjth   Portuguese   and 

British  Governments  in  its  suppression. 

Another  incentive  to  the  prosecution  of  this  journey  was  the  prospect 
it  promisetl  of  a  peep  into  the  country  occupied   by  that  strangely 
ilatod  tribe  the  Mavia  or  Mabiha.     This  tribe,  whoso  existence  was 

rst  pointcMl  out  by  Livingstone,  has  baffled  the  efforts  of  succeeding 

avellers  to  penetrate  their  country.  Of  it  Mi\  Joseph  Thomson 
writes : — *'  They  are  noted  as  the  most  exclusive  tribe  in  East  Africa,  a» 

ven  the  Arabs  have  as  yet  been  unable  to  penetrate  l>eyond  the  outskirts 
'of  their  country."  And  Mr.  Chauncy  Mapk-e,  foiled  in  his  attempt  to 
posB  through  their  countrj',  tells  us  : — "  We  had  hoped  to  strike  through 
the  Muvia  conntry  to  the  river  Miialu  and  thence  to  Medo,  for  which  wo 
were  bound.  This,  however,  we  found  impossible.  No  road  existed 
there,  we  were  told.  Besides,  the  Mavia  are  said  to  bo  so  fierce  and 
inliospitable  to  all  other  tribes  that  no  one  dares  to  pass  through  their 
country.'*  To  read  all  this  was  v<?ry  whetting,  and  could  not  but  excite 
a  desire  to  break  down  the  V>arriers  by  which  the  tribe  seemed  to  bo 
fenced  in,  and  to  learn  something  of  their  nature  and  customs,  as  well 
as  of  the  reasons  of  tho  strange  exclusiveness  reported.  This  I  de- 
mined  to  strive  my  best  to  do. 

My  starting-point  for  the  interior  was  not  less  than  250  miles  noi-th 
of  Mozambique,  and  it  seemed  doubtful  at  first  if  I  should  be  able  to 

L*ach  it,  as  the  season  was  late  and  tho  north-east  monsoon  was  fast 

tting  in.  But  a  sudden  change  of  the  wind  to  the  south-west  favoured 
me,  and  on  the  9  th  September  last  I  left  Mozambique  in  a  sailing 
/ancAa,  or  small   schooner,  and  pushed   out,  contrary   to  custom,  into 

•  See  ftlao  map  in  'Procet dings,'  1S82,  p.  128. — We  &vaQ  otirBtlircs  of  this  oppor- 
Buity  of  coiTLCting  un  error  wiikh  Ims  crept  into  our  reprtHluctiou  of  the  fonuor  map  of 
Ir-  O'Neill  iu  '  Proctedings,'  1S82,  p,  648  :  the  raago  of  "cmj;gy  j^raDitu  ptaka"  there 
eprtiitentix)  in  the  interior  near  Almeida  Buy  should  be  2-3UO0  feet  high,  not 
-(KKK)  feel.— {T2d.] 


Ko.  YII.— July  1883.] 


2  D 


zu 


JOURNEY  IJf  THE  DISTRICT  WEST 


the  Madagascar  Channel,  in  order  to  escape  the  strong  southerly  cuiTent 
that  almost  invariably  sets  upon  this  portion  of  the  African  cowt, 
Nearing  the  land  again  on  tho  llth»  I  found  myself  in  the  neighhonr- 
hood  of  Ibo,  just  sighting  its  fiogstaflf  and  lighthouse,  conspicuuutily 
raised  above  the  groves  of  coco-nut  pabns  which  almost  cover  the  fiice 
of  this  island.  Thence — as  I  could  not  afford  to  lose,  by  any  delay  At 
this  point,  a  favonrable  southerly  wind — I  stood  steadily  on  to  the 
northward,  continuing  to  run  before  a  strong  breeze  and  heavy  sea, 
which,  though  favourable,  made  our  little  craft  a  great  deal  too  frisky 
to  be  comfortable.  At  sunset  we  made  the  Tambuzi  pass,  and  after 
narrowly  escaping  shipwreck  upon  the  reef  which  rims  out  from  the 
island  a  considerable  distance  to  the  southward,  anchored  under  lee  of 
ita  western  extremity,  heartily  glad  to  exchange  the  rough  sea  and 
discomfort  of  the  Mozambique  Channel  for  quiet  waters  and  a  night's  rert 
in  MafcimLwa  Bay. 

The  next  day  was  occupied  in  threading  qur  way  between  the 
numerous  shoals  and  rocky  patches  which  at  this  j>oint  connect  the 
muinlaud  with  the  outlying  Queriraha  Islands,  and  it  was  late  in  the 
evening  before  the  last  channel  was  passed,  and  Tunghi,  in  the  Bay  of 
Cape  Ddgado,  reached. 

My  object  in  calling  hero  was  to  obtain  guides  t<j  conduct  me  a 
oertain  distance  ujion  the  road  that,  leaving  the  coast  at  Menangene, 
connects  with  the  well-known  Kilwa-Nyassa  road  at  some  point  upon 
the  Lujenda,  &  little  above  its  confluence  with  the  Rovuma.  A  journey 
upon  this  road,  stemming  the  current  of  caravans,  great  and  smaU, 
passing  at  this  season  to  tho  coast,  would,  I  felt  sure,  best  give  me  that 
information  res^jecting  the  slave  trade  that  I  sought-  Two  guides,  after 
some  diiBculty,  were  obtained,  who  agreed  to  accompany  me  to  Lake 
Kangadi,  our  future  course  to  be  decided  upon  arrival  there. 

1  accordingly  ran  my  little  craft  aground  upon  a  sheltered  Iwtnk  off 
the  village  of  Menangene,  and,  leaving  two  hands  in  charge,  lauded 
with  the  rest  of  my  men,  who  had  been  engaged  to  act  inditlereutly  as 
carriers  or  crew,  as  circumfitances  required. 

I  shall  pass  over  the  incidents  of  our  necessary  delay  l>ofore  departure 
from  the  coast,  and  will  just  say,  with  i-e-spcct  to  thi«  little  settlement 
of  Menangeuo,  that  it  appears  to  be  quickly  rising  in  impoi-tance,  and, 
commercially  speaking,  may  even  now  be  said  to  be  the  chief  point  iu 
Cape  Belgado  Bay.  Better  situated  for  intercourse  with  the  interior 
than  Tunghi,  it  possesses  an  equally  good  harbour,  has  higher  ground 
in  its  vicinity,  and  is  reported  healthier.  These  advantages,  combined 
with  tho  liberal  commercial  policy  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  arc  attract- 
ing to  it  the  trade  of  tho  neighbouring  district,  and  caravans  from  the 
interior  to  this  pai-t  of  the  coast  generally  make  it  their  first  pjint  of 
call  With  respect  to  the  nature  of  the  trade,  this  consists  now  chiefly  of 
indiarubher,  gum-copal,  and  ivory.     Trade  in  slaves  there  no  doubt  has 


OF  CAPK  DELGADO  BAY. 


99S 


D  a  oertiiin  extent  is ;  but  it  is  a  favourable  sign  that  the 
number  of  Arabs  trading  in  the  place  has  of  late  docreased,  and  that 
Battias  and  Banyans  are  commencing  to  establish  themselves  in  it. 

The  eightli  day  after  leaving  Mo55ambi«|u©  saw  ub  on  our  way  into 

the  interior,  travelling  upon  the  road  that  leads  from  this  point  to  the 

^l^yaaaa.    As  this  portion  has  been  lately  passed  over  by  Mr.  ITiomson, 

r^rho  has  read  a  paper  uptm  hi«  journey  b«3fore  this  Society,  1  will  say 

but  little  of  it.     There  is,  indeed,  but  little  to  be  said,  for  the  country  is 

^a  moat  bam?n  and  unintereating  character.     Poorly  wooded,  aud  of  a 

nady  soil,  it  rises  almost  imperceptibly  from  the  coast  to  a  height  of 

474  feet  at  Chimsaka's.     Ita  drainage  appears  to  be  carrierl  out  V»y  a 

SMUttber  of  sponges,  or  ^swampy  depreseione,  many  of  which  form  in 

ths  rainy  season  large  shallow  ponds,  or  rather  small  lakes  of  several 

■ktlee  in  circumference.     Some  of  these,  oven  when  I  passed  them  in 

September,  were  fairly  full,  and  were  prettily  dotted  over  with  islands, 

wluMe  green  formed  a  refreshing  relief  to  the  tame  and  withered  aspeot 

L  of  tlie  country. 

f  Three  days  at  Chimsaka's  enabled  me  to  take  hmars,  which  gave  satis- 
factory results,  placing  the  village  of  this  chief  in  long.  40**  6'  22"  E., 
or  a  Httlo  west  of  the  position  given  it  by  tho  dead  reckoning  of  Mr. 
Tliomson.  In  changing  the  name  of  their  chief  to  Cbimsaka  from 
**  Kvackimsaka,"  I  have  but  struck  off  the  Swahili  preposition  haa  **  to  " 
("we  are  going  to  Chimsaka,"  "tunakwenda  kwa  Chimsaka"),  and 
reverted  to  the  orthography  of  Livingstone ;  for  I  discovered  that  this 
<^uef  was  none  other  than  the  "  Chimsaka  "  visited  by  Livingstone  in 
1666,  and  laid  down  in  the  Koyal  Geographical  Society's  large-scale 
map  as  close  to  Mtarika's  of  that  date. 

Conversing  with  him  respecting  the  locality  ho  had  left,  I  asked  him 
'  draw  for  me  on  the  ground  some  of  the  rivers  and  mountains  of  his 
former  country.  Willingly  assenting,  ho  roughly,  but  not  inaccurately, 
out  the  Lujeiida  and  Rovuma,  placing  his  former  village  near 
r  Ibtter,  ]>ut  some  distance  above  its  oonHuence  witii  the  Lujenda, 
and  laying  do^vn  the  villages  oi  th«  neighbouring  chiefs  Mtarika, 
Ckmgawala,  and  Mteude,  almost  exactly  as  they  were  laid  down  by 
Livingstone.  1  then  asked  him  if  he  remembeixMl  a  white  man  passing 
^ii  "way  nearly  twenty  years  ago.  "  Oh,  very  well,  a  long  time  ago ;  ho 
passed  with  a  donkey  " — "  E  waa,  zamani,  amechukua  pnnda  " — vtm  his 
immediate  reply.  He  further  told  me  that  he  and  Mtarika  had  been 
driven  from  that  locality  by  a  Mangoni  raid,  and  that  whilst  Mtarika 
had  turned  south,  he  had  turned  north,  and,  crossing  the  llovnma,  had 
livod  some  time  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Maaasi  before  taking  up  his 
reeidence  upon  his  present  ground. 

On  leaving  Chimsaka's  I  struck  off  the  main  road  to  the  noi-thward, 
aad^  passing  several  Makua  villages,  camped  at  one  named  Mkalani. 
About  noon  upon  the  second  day  the  country  began  to  change  in  cha- 

2  D  2 


396 


JOURNEY  IN  THE  DISTRICT  WEST 


racter,  and  we  entered  a  rough,  broken  gandstone  ridge,  leaving  behind 
UB  the  monotonous  levels  I  have  before  mentioned. 

Crossing  thifi  we  stiddenly  opened  up,  from  a  small  gorge,  a  scene  of 
great  pictnrcBqwe  beauty.  About  a  thousand  feet  below  ns  lay  the 
broad  Rovuma  valley,  down  to  wbioh  the  hills,  from  which  we  viewed 
it,  fell  in  sharp  descent.  Through  its  centre  the  river  ran,  fringed  with 
broad  banks,  in  this  the  diy  season,  of  the  whitest  sand,  into  which,  in 
the  distance,  the  waters  imperceptibly  merged,  and  the  dividing  lino 
being  lost  to  the  eye,  a  greatly  exaggerated  impression  was  gained  of 
tlie  river's  breadth.  Several  islands  of  varioua  size  and  irregular  shape, 
and  covered  with  the  purest  green,  were  dotted  upon  its  surface.  For 
mimy  miles  on  cither  side,  and  extending  to  the  feet  of  the  flanking  hills, 
was  a  marshy  rush-  and  grass-grown  bed,  intersected  here  and  there  by 
Btreanis  and  rivulets,  which  ran  from  the  neighyK)urilng  hills,  glistening 
brightly  under  the  noonday  sun,  forming  the  favourite  haunts  of  the 
hijtpopotami  and  crocodiles  with  which  these  swamps  abound.  Carrying 
the  eye  westward,  and  beyond  the  point  where  the  hills  fell  away  nortli 
and  south,  a  vast  plain  was  visible,  upon  which  had  settled  a  heavy  lurid 
haze,  the  smoke  of  innumerable  fires  imdispersed  in  the  still  midday 
air,  and  touched  up  and  brightened  by  the  beams  of  a  fiery  sun.  Across 
the  valley,  and  about  10  to  15  miles  distant,  the  Makonde  hills  arose, 
apparently  as  abruptly  aa  those  on  which  we  stood,  and  gave  a  deep  bold 
framework  t.o  the  ijicture. 

Our  path  ran  for  some  little  distance  along  the  edge  of  the  Mavia 
plateau,  the  northern  escarpment  of  w^hich  is,  at  this  point,  sharply 
precipitous.  Turning  a  little  to  the  southward  we  lost  sight  of  the 
Eovuma  valley,  and,  after  a  hard  day's  march,  arrived  at  sunset  upon 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Lake  Nangadi,  on  the  outaldi-ta  of  the  village  of 
a  Malvua  chief  called  Mlaba. 

I  have  noticed  that  Mr.  Thomson,  in  his  paper,  has  made  no 
mention  of  this  lake,  which  turns  slightly  to  the  N.N.E.  at  its 
northern  end,  and  is  therefore  only  partly  visible  at  the  point  from 
which  he  viewed  it.  I  have  made  a  sketch  plan  of  the  lake,  taken 
from  a  hill  about  the  centre  of  its  eastern  shore,  from  which  its  whole 
extent  was  visible.  Upon  three  sides  it  is  inclosed  by  low  hills  that 
vary  from  200  to  400  feet  in  height,  whilst  the  fourth,  or  northern,  is 
open  to  the  Uovuma  valley. 

It  cannot  in  any  sense  be  called  an  upland  lake,  as  its  altitude 
is  only  67  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  (boiling-point  thermometer), 
and  probably  its  level  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  the  river  at  this 
point.  It  only  communicates,  however,  with  the  Rovuma  during  the 
rainy  season,  when  it  overflows  into  the  Mtumbwi  river,  by  which 
its  waters  are  carried  into  the  main  stream.  From  my  point  of  observa- 
tion I  could  distinctly  see  that  the  marshy  level  adjacent  to  the  river 
extended  to  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lake,  and  at  first  it  appeared 


OF  CAPE  DEXGADO  BAY. 


397 


to  mo  probable  that  the  lake  was  but  a  backwater  of  the  Eoviima, 
receiving  its  waters  from  it  during  the  rains.  But  this  supposition  was 
not  bomo  out  by  inquiry*,  and  I  was  informed  that  it  was  only  connected 
by  means  of  an  outlet  during  the  wet  season.  It  is  well  stocked  with 
fish,  and  many  parties  of  Mavia  come  down  from  their  hills  to  catch  and 
salt  that  luxury,  living  meanwhile  in  vihanda,  or  temporarily  erected 
huta,  U|Kin  its  shore. 

I  regret  that  throe  photographic  views  I  took  of  this  lake  were 
entirely  spoilt  by  a  carek-ss  exposure,  on  the  part  of  a  servant,  of  tho 
plates  to  light  before  development. 

On  my  arrival  at  Nungadi  I  had  received  a  disagreeable  and  painful 
mmour  of  the  destruction  of  our  Universities'  Mission  Station  at  Masasi 
by  tho  Makangwai*a,  and  the  flight  for  life — as  I  was  first  informed — of 
our  missionaries  to  the  mountains  of  Kwauiatola.  Not  kno%ving  at  first 
bow  much  of  this  to  believe,  and  unable  to  proceed  until  1  had  dis- 
covered tlio  tiuth,  I  at  once  despatchetl  a  messenger  to  Ncwala  with  a 
letter  to  lie  delivered  to  Mr,  Maples,  and  I  decided  after  four  days'  delay 
to  push  on  one  stage  further  to  the  banks  of  the  river  marked  on  our 
maps  as  the  Lidedi,  and  to  await  an  answer  there. 

1  was  quickened  to  this  decision  by  the  arrival  at  Tehipili,  on  the 
third  day  of  my  stay,  of  a  Yao  slave  and  ivory  caravan,  numbering 
in  all  about  400  bouIs,  nearly  half  of  whom  were  slaves.  The  Bustenance 
of  so  largo  a  party  caused  a  comparative  dearth  in  the  district,  as  all  the 
neighbouring  villages  were  being  scoured  for  fitod,  for  which  the  highest 
prices  were  being  paid.  This  was  inconvenient,  as  my  style  of  travel- 
ling was  severely  economical,  and  a  change  to  a  land  of  greater  jjlenty 
became  desirable. 

1  should  not  omit  to  say  here  that  this  caravan  was  not  origiuallj' 
intended  for  the  Mozambique  coast,  Kilwa-Kivunji  in  Zanzibar  terri- 
tory was  its  first  destination  ;  but  hearing  of  the  Makangwai-a  raid, 
and  fearing  to  encounter  that  warlike  tribe,  who  would  certainly  have 
BWooiX)d  dowTi  upon  them  had  they  heard  of  their  proximity,  they  turned 
aaide  to  the  coast  south  of  the  Rovuma.  Tho  answer  to  my  letter 
amved  in  due  time,  and  I  was  very  delighted  to  learn  from  it  that  the 
reports  I  had  received  were  much  exaggerated.  I  was  assured  by 
Mr.  Maples  that,  although  they  had  been  robbed  of  almost  all  they 
possessed,  there  had  been  no  loss  of  life  amongst  the  members  or  natives 
of  the  mission,  nor  did  ho  anticipate  any  further  danger.  This  freedom 
he  attributed  to  the  superstitious  character  of  the  Makangwara,  who 
hold  the  whites  in  great  dread.  It  had  been  far  otherwise  with  tho 
Makua  and  Yao  villages  in  their  vicinity,  which  had  l)een  all  totally 
destroyed,  and  their  inhabitants  UHirdcrcd  or  led  into  slavery. 

This  Makangwara  tribe  and  the  Maviti  are  the  curse  of  this  portion 
of  East  Africa,  and  the  great  bar  to  its  peace  and  progress.  Whole 
districts  depopulated ;  entire  tribes  cut  up  and  dispersed ;  vast  areas  of 


398 


JOURNEY  IN  THE  DISTRICT  WEST 


OQuntry  devastated ;  in  short,  murder,  famine,  and  slavery  ai*e  the  dh 
results  of  their  predatory  habits.  Tho  peaceful  influence  of  our  mi»- 
sionarieB  on  the  Nyassa  secuiH  to  have  done  something  towards  checking 
the  warliko  instincts  of  the  latter;  but  the  Makangwara  are  os  jet 
un touched  by  them.  It  in  almost  fortunate  that  these  two  tribes  are 
hereditary  enemies,  as  this  enmity  in  certain  degree  tends  to  paraljm 
the  harmful  power  of  each. 

My  pushing  on  to  Lidedi  was  fortunate,  in  that  it  enables  me  to 
point  out  the  existence  of  another  lake,  similar  to  and  only  a  littl* 
smaller  than  Nangadi,  called  by  the  natives  Lidedi.  Tho  river  that 
flows  into  this  lake,  ufwn  which  Natiaka,  passed  by  both  Messrs. 
Thomson  and  Maples,  is  situated,  is  tlio  Mlenji,  and  the  name  Lidedi 
is  only  given  by  tho  natives  to  the  lake,  and  perhaps  to  tlje  river  con- 
necting it  with  the  Eovuraa.  P'rom  Natiaka's  the  lake  is  about  l^  milo 
distant  north  (true),  but  as  the  intervening  country  is  hilly  and  broken, 
you  only  get  a  glimpse  of  a  small  portion  of  its  surface  between  ila» 
hills,  which  gives  no  im])resRion  of  the  existence  of  a  lake.  1  walked, 
however,  to  and  for  some  distance  along  its  eastern  shore,  and  found 
it  a  sheet  of  water,  comparatively  speaking,  of  considerable  size,  and 
quite  deserving  the  name  of  a  lake.  It  is  of  triangular  shape,  of  from 
2J^  to  throe  miles  in  length,  with  an  extreme  breadth  of  not  less  than 
one  mile. 

I  was  assured,  both  at  Natiaka  and  upon  tho  lake  itself,  that  it 
receives  its  waters  from  tho  IJovuma,  and  that  the  river  connecting  its 
north-west  extremity  with  that  river  iiowed — and  at  this  season  it  was 
said  to  be  not  quite  dry— into  tho  lake  ;  whereas  that  which  oouuected  its 
north-east  extremity  flowed  out  of  tho  lake  int-o  the  river, 

I  am  soiTy  I  waa  unable  to  fix  tho  level  of  this  lake ;  but,  owing  to 
the  desertion  of  some  of  my  porters,  I  had  been  comjielletl  to  leave 
ftveral  loads  at  Kangadi,  and  amongst  them  had  been  forgotten  my 
thermometers  and  apparatus  for  boiling.  I  coidd,  however,  clearly  see 
that  tJio  northern  shore  of  the  lake  consisted  of  the  same  marshy,  level 
land  adjacent  to  the  banks  of  the  Rovuma,  'which  was  also  clearly  visible 
to  the  eye  at  an  apparent  distance  of  five  or  six  mihjs. 

lieassurcd  by  the  receipt  of  Mr.  Mupks'  letter,  I  was  now  fire© 
to  carry  out  tho  next  step  in  my  programme,  viz.  to  turn  south* 
wards,  and  penetrate  at  least  the  confines  of  the  Mavia  country, 
I  remained  four  days  at  Natiaka's,  struggling  hard  to  obtain  some  one 
who  would  take  Jiio  ofi'  this,  the  well-beaten  caravan  ro.id,  and  guide  na© 
din^ct  to  the  southward.  But  I  mot  with  all  the  opposition  here  that 
Mr.  Maples  encountered  when  endeavouring  to  force  his  way  in  the  same 
direction,  *'  There  was  no  road ;  nobody  ever  went  into  the  Mavia 
country  from  this  point ;  they  would  not  admit  strangers,"  Ac  "  Why 
not?"  I  asked,  "if  we  did  them  no  harm  why  should  they  harm  u»?^ 
"  Oh,  they  were  thoroughly  wild  ( icaihenzi  Jcabiaa)  and  treated  all  strangers 
as  enemies." 


OF  CAPE  DELGADO  BAY. 


390 


Snch  wore  tlie  answers  I  recoivod,  and  had  I  not  been  fayourod  by 

an  aocident  I  should  have  been  condemned  to  return  by  the  same  road 

Kbywhich  I  had  come,  or  by  that  traversed  by  Jlr.  Thomson  last  year 

Hon    his  return    to   the   coast.     This  acoident   wasj   the  appearance  at 

HKatinka,  on  the  last  day  of  my  stay,  of  a  Mavia  chief  with  whom  he 

^kns  on  friendly  tenns,  named  Lishehe,  whom  curiotiit}''  had  led  to  have 

Hp  jj^mpse  of  the  white  he  had  lieard  was  staying  with  his  friend. 

H         Hero  was  my  opportunity,  and  after  a  long  palaver,  accompanied  by 

™  a  judicious  increase  in  my  present  to  Natiaka,  which  served  the  double 

purpcise  of  enlisting    his   arguments  in   my  favour   and    exciting   the 

cupidity  of  his  friend,  we  succeeded  in  convincing  the  latter  that  our 

objects  were  innocent  and  harmless,  and  gained  the  necessary  permission 

Ito  visit  him  at  his  village^  to  which  he  proAaised  to  personally  guide  us. 

IfThence,  it  was  arranged,  we  were  to  go  on  to  Mkopoka's,  another  Mavia 

\  chief  of  some  influence. 

To  pick  up  the  things  I  had  left  at  Nangadi,  we  retumeil  to  that 
[lake  and  camped  that  day  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mwidi  river.  The 
aext  morning  we  were  aroused  at  the  unconscionable  hour  of  1  a.m.  by 
or  Mavia  guide  who  desired  ua  to  start  without  delay.  His  suspicions, 
'^it  was  evident,  were  but  half  allayed»  his  object  in  wishing  ua  to  travel 
l^  night  being  to  prevent  our  preserving  any  recollection  of  the  path  we 
traversed.  Feeling  it  beat  to  humour  him,  I  at  once  struck  camp,  not- 
withstanding much  grumbling  on  the  part  of  my  men,  and  for  about  two 
hours  we  made  a  sharp  ascent,  our  path  leading  southerly. 
^  The  height  of  the  Mavia  hills  at  this  point  I  estimate  at  1200  feet, 
"for  shortly  after  reaching  the  summit  wo  commenced  u  very  gradual 
descent  until  the  village  <>f  Lishehe  was  reached,  which  village  I  found,  by 
aneroid  and  iKtiling-point  thermometers,  to  be  at  an  altitude  of  974  feet- 
Travelling  by  what  I  am  sure  was  a  very  circuitous  path,  we 
entered  the  village  of  uur  guide  in  the  forenoon  of  that  day.  A  descrip- 
tion of  one  of  these  Mavia  villages  will  serve  for  all.  A  eii-cular  belt  of 
about  60  or  80  feet  in  wiiltli  was  thickly  planted  with  trees  and  thorny 
ondcrbush,  every  crevice  in  which  appeared  to  be  filled  up  so  carefully 
that  it  became  an  utter  impossibility  for  man,  or  beast  of  any  size,  to 
penetrate  it.  At  two  or  three  points  a  narrow  path  was  left  for  entrance 
and  exit,  which  is  strongly  guarded  by  double  or  treble  gates.  I  use 
the  word  gates  ;  but  of  course  they  are  innocent  of  lock  or  hinge.  There 
is  a  framework  of  two  strong  uprights,  deeply  imlioildc^l  in  the  ground, 
and  strengthened  by  twu  hnrisiontal  bars  about  five  feet  apart.  Two 
other  movable  horizontal  bars  fit,  one  end  in  a  hole,  the  other  in  a  niche 
in  the  uprights.  A  number  of  smaller  uprights  have  holes  burnt  through 
both  their  ends,  by  which  they  are  threiided  upon  the  two  horizontal 
bars,  until  the  fraraewtirk  is  completely  dosed,  when  the  ends  are  thrust 
into  the  holes  and  niches,  and  the  whole  strengthened  by  beams  placed 
against  it  upon  the  inside.  During  my  stay  at  Lishehe  every  gate  was 
carefully  closed  at  sunset. 


400 


JOUfiXEY  IN  THE  DISTRICT  WEST 


Tho  inclosure  at  Lishehe  was  of  considerable  size,  and  admitted  of 
tho  building  of  40  or  50  huts  without  crowding ;  and  though  space  waa 
unavoidably  valuable,  I  noticed  that  caro  was  taken  to  spare  all  shade- 
giving  trees,  which  plcasanlh'  varied  tho  interior  surface,  otherwise 
level  and  bare  of  the  snialleat  blade  of  grass.  Goats  in  great  abundance, 
and  cocks  and  hens,  took  the  place  here  of  the  Iriahman'a  pig,  and  lived 
in  happy  union  with  humankind,  forming  apparently  a  very  tliriving 
family.  It  being  inconvenient  to  enlarge  an  inelosure,  when  the  packing 
of  this  heterogeneous  family  becomes  insupportably  close,  another  in- 
closure is  planted  out  within  a  short  distance,  to  which  tho  superfluous 
I>opu!ation  betakes  itself,  A  fresh  inclosure  was  in  course  of  conatruclioij 
close  to  Lishehe  at  the  time  of  my  visit. 

I  had  hoped  to  discover,  and  to  bo  able  to  relate,  some  curious  custouu 
special  to  this  tribe,  which  has  earned  for  itself  such  a  name  for  excln- 
Bivcness  and  idiosyncrasy.  Hut,  except  it  bo  that  the  dearth  of  water 
in  their  country,  and  personal  propiucjuity  of  their  mode  of  life,  mnka 
them  especially  dirty,  and  impart  to  their  inclosures  an  aroma  that  I 
have  never  experienced  outaido  the  monkey-housf  of  tho  Zoological 
Gardens,  I  can  fix  upon  nothing  to  distinguish  them  from  neighbouring 
African  tribes.  Saving,  of  course,  the  one  peculiarity  already  pointed 
out  by  !Mr.  Thomson,  that  the  men  as  well  as  the  women  wear  the  ndonot 
OT pelele,  or  lip-ring. 

This  fashion  exceeds,  I  think,  any  attempt  ever  made  by  man  or 
woman-kind — and  they  have  been  many  at  various  stages  of  the  world  s 
history — to  distort  and  vilify  the  work  of  natme.  Ingenious  as  the 
votarioK  of  fashion  are  in  this  direction,  it  would  tax  their  ingenuity  to 
produce  anything  more  strikingly  hideous.  In  pure  and  unalloyed 
ugliness,  it  croivns  tho  chignon,  beats  the  modern  bustle,  and  throws 
even  crinoline  into  tho  shade.  A  long  absence  from  England  prevents 
me  speaking  of  any  later  abomination  ;  but  Du  RIaurier's  sketches  leave 
one  in  doubt  as  to  what  ajstheticism  may  not  have  done. 

I  tried  hard,  by  means  of  bribes  and  promises  of  further  payment,  to 
persuade  an  elderly  couple,  whose  lips  had  been  enormously  distended, 
as  ago  and  constant  use  permitted  the  entry  of  a  larger  disc,  to  stand 
facing  each  other,  so  that  I  might  reproduce  with  the  camera  their 
extraordinary  profiles  ;  but  it  was  of  no  avail.  The  po]>piug  of  my  head 
and  shoulders  into  the  black  velvet  had  apparently  the  same  effect  upon 
them  that  the  putting  on  of  the  black  cap  may  be  supposed  to  have 
upon  the  mind  of  a  condemned  prisoner  in  an  English  court  of  law,  and 
with  a  quick  look  of  horror  at  the  supposed  sorcerer,  or  at  what  they 
imagined  was  left  of  him,  they  incontinently  bolted. 

By  means  of  the  ndona  the  women  give  a  shrill,  quavering  whistle — 
strildng  the  tongue  rapidly  against  ita  under  surface — used  by  them  to 
call  the  men  in  time  of  danger,  or  when  anything  extraordinary  has 
occurred.     On  my  arrival  at  Mkopoka,  I  cumo  rather  suddenly  upon 


OF  CAPE  DELGADO  BAY. 


401 


I 


I 


some  outlying  huts,  at  which  there  were  only  some  woniorx  sitting. 
Startled  by  our  appearance,  they  set  up  this  cry  or  whistle.  In  a 
moment  it  was  caught  up  in  a  tlozoii  different  directions,  and  before  five 
minutes  had  passed  we  were  surroundcil  by  more  than  1 00  people,  many 
I  of  them  women  and  children,  for  they  were  quickly  reassured,  and  no 
real  alarm  was  felt. 

In  justice  to  what  I  saw  of  the  Mavia — and  I  passed  ten  days  in  their 
country — let  me  say  this  ugliness  does  not  extend  beneath  the  surface. 
I  found  them  anything  b^lt  "  fierce,  treacherous,  and  inhospitable." 
When  once  their  natural  euspicions — begotten,  I  feel  sure,  of  many 
decades  of  ill-treatment  by  suiToumling  and  more  powerful  tribes — were 
allayed,  and  coufidenco  established,  thuy  were  hospitable  and  generous, 
and  showed  neither  distrust  nor  reserve.  Indeed,  they  seemed  to  me  to 
be  a  particularly  simple-minded,  hannlcss  folk.  Very  differeut  in  this 
respect  to  the  Yao,  by  whom,  incited  doubtless  frequently  by  coast 
traders,  they  have  been  regularly  hunted  and  harassed. 

Their  isolation  and  exclusivcncss  I  believe  t«.>  be  simply  duo  to  the 
fact  that  they  have  liecn  the  "  game  '*  of  adjoining  and  bettur  armed 
tribes  and  coast  dealers-  I  heard  that  our  friend  Chimsuka  had  been 
one  of  the  worst  of  these,  but  that  latterly  ho  had  listened  to  l>etti.r 
counsels. 

The  weather  during  our  stay  at  Lishehe  was  unfavourable  for  the 
taking  of  lunars,  and  I  was  unable  to  fix  the  longitude  of  the  village  of 
this  influential  Mavia  chief.  By  meridian  altitudes  of  stars  north  and 
south,  I  place  it  in  hit.  ll''  9'  21"  S. 

Instead  of  penetrating  still  fui'ther  south,  I  was  disappointed  to  see 
that  our  coiirso  to  Mkopoka  led  us  again  coastwards  in  almost  a  due 
easterly  direction.  Although  a  pure  Mavia,  and  the  recognised  head 
of  a  number  of  Mavia  villages,  it  was  easy  for  mo  to  see  that  thi.»j  chief 
■was  one  of  those  living  upon  the  confines  of  Mavia  temtory  whoso 
tribal  reserve  is  fast  disappearing  before  the  influences  of  trade.  Un- 
fortunately these  influences  arc  not  always  beneficial.  I  found  Mkoi>oka 
just  one  of  those  whom  the  coast  native  traders  like  to  find  at  the  head 
of  aflairs,  whom  they  can  use  as  a  puppet  to  serve  their  own  enils. 
Weak-minded  and  fond  of  drink,  he  seemed  eiitirely  in  the  hands  of  a 
number  of  these,  whu  had  established  themselves  at  his  village.  Lt'd 
by  them,  it  appears  that  he  had  been  guilty  of  kidnapping  some  of  his 
own  trilxj,  and  selling  them  into  slavery.  By  his  own  people  ho  was 
evidently  beginning  to  be  considered  a  n'negade,  and  during  my  stay 
at  his  village  women  were  taking  Hight  coastwards,  as  it  was  nimoured 
that  war  was  to  be  made  upon,  him,  iu  revenge  for  liis  conduct,  by  several 
of  the  Mavia  chiefs. 

It  was  simply  owing  to  this  condition  of  things  that  I  failed  to  get 
further  inland  from  this  point.  "  There  was  war,"  and  "  there  had 
already  been  lighting,"  and  no  one  would  venture  to  guide  mo  in  that 


402 


.lOCRNEY  IN  THE  DISTRICT  WEST 


direction.  I  was  fmir  days  striving  againBt  these  excuees,  not  knoVfteq^ 
at  first  how  far  they  were  real,  but  at  last  had  to  succumb,  convitiood  of 
their  truth.  I  had  no  alternative,  therefore,  but  to  make  my  way  to  Uws 
coast,  and  I  Btnick  again  E.N.E.,  coming  upon  tho  old  caravati-roud  lit 
Chimeaka's,  whore  I  arrived  on  Oct.  8th. 

Before  entirely  leaving  the  Ma  via,  I  will  just  say  that  they  appear  to 
me  to  bo  a  branch  of  the  Makonde.  In  many  points  their  custouM  Me 
similar,  and  tho  women  have  all  the  independence  of  position,  and 
freedom  of  selection  in  man-iage,  that  the  Makondo  are  said  to  h^ve. 
They  are  frequently  spoken  of  also  as  such  by  the  coast  people,  who 
often  use  the  ternia  Makondo  and  Maxna  indifferently  in  talking  of  them. 
Whether  the  wmaU  collection  I  was  able  to  make  of  Mavia  words  bears 
out  this  sujjposition,  I  cannot  say,  for  I  do  not  posaees  a  Jlakonde 
vowihulary  with  which  to  compare  it,  nor  do  I  know  if  one  has  yet  been 
published.  They  show  a  great  respect  for  their  dcjid,  and  c»refully  tend 
tho  grav^  of  any  of  their  chiefs  or  head-men.  I  saw  several  of  these,  on 
which  was  a  raised  mound,  neatly  shaped,  of  clay,  inclosed  within  a  low 
rill  go,  fiimilar  to  the  border  stone  of  a  Christian  grave.  This  again  hfkd 
a  raised  framework  upon  it,  roofod  in  with  thatch,  and  the  comer  posts 
we!"e  generally  ornamented  with  small  streamors  of  cloth. 

Nothing  worthy  of  remark  occurred  on  my  return  journey  to  the 
coast,  which  was  reached  at  Monangene  on  Oct.  13th,  after  an  absence 
of  four  weeks. 

Guides  paid  and  dismissed,  we  hauled  our  little  lancha  off  the  bonk 
on  which  sho  had  been  securely  shoi^d  up  for  a  month,  and  embarked 
without  farther  delay,  making  sail  for  Ibo.  Three  days'  pleasant  run 
before  a  brisk  north-east  monsoon,  within  tho  Querimha  Islands  and 
reefs,  brought  us  to  that  port.  The]  e  are  very  interesting  stone  ruins 
tipon  many  of  these  islands,  traces  of  farmer  Portuguese  occupation,  in 
the  remains  of  forts,  private  houses,  and  religious  establishments,  the 
latter,  wo  are  told,  the  work  of  the  Jesuits.  These,  however,  were  all 
wrecked  in  tho  hMgimang  of  this  century  by  an  extraordinary  invasion 
of  that  daring  seafaring  tribe  of  MadagHscar,  tho  Sakalavas,  who,  after 
sacking  the  Comoros,  sailed  over  to  tho  African  coast,  and  overran  a 
iiumbt'T  of  the  Quorimba  Islands,  capturing  and  murdering  their 
inhabitants,  and  leaving  nothing  but  niin  in  their  train.  Since  then, 
with  the  exception  of  Il«o  and  one  or  two  of  the  adjoining  islands,  they 
have  been  practicjilly  uninhabited. 

The  little  settlement  of  Ibo  needs  no  description  here.  Considerable 
improvements  have  l>een  nutde  within  the  past  three  or  four  years  by 
the  Board  of  Public  Works  of  the  province,  which  has  erected  a  new 
custom-house,  post-office,  governor's  residence,  and  lighthouse.  As  the 
number  of  ships  entering  this  port  in  one  jear  may  generally  be  counted 
on  the  fingers  of  one  hand,  almost  the  whole  trade  being  canied  on  by 
coasters  who  invariably  anchor  at  night,  the  practical  utility  of  tho 
expenditure  upon  the  latter  work  may  be  open  to  question. 


OK  CAPE  DELOADO  BAV. 


40S 


Xothing  strikes  a  stranger  more  than  the  sleepy  air  that  pervades 

I  this  and  sneh-liko  out-of-the-way  settlements  of  the  cofist,  where  neither 

I  jnail-fiteaniers  nor  other  shipping  calL     Its  governor,  a  most  coui'toous 

land  hospitable  gentleman,  Major  K.  Palma  Velho,  of  the  Portugaese 

I  cavalry,  presidos  over  the  whole  eoast  from  Cape  Delgado  Bay  to  the 

Lnrio  river  j  but  as  no  practical  jurisdietion  is  exercised  beyond  the 

vicinity  of  Ibo,  the  ilntic-s  of  administnition   are   not,  I  imagine,  very 

^P  "burdensome. 

After  passing  two  days  here,  I  kft  for  Mozambitine,  calling  at 
Slmooku  and  Mweiidazi.  Whilst  at  the  latter  place,  I  sailed  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Mkubnre  river,  in  order  to  correct  an  error  that  has 
arisen  regarding  the  point  of  its  entry  into  this  bay.  Its  mouth  is  placed 
in  tlie  Royal  Geographical  Society's  recently  published  large-scale  map 

tin  the  south-west  corner  of  Meraba,  or  Mwcndassi  Bay,  and  it  occupies 
there  the  place  that  should  be  taken  by  a  short  salt-water  inlet,  named 
Alarazani.  The  Mkubnre  is  really  the  river  marked  in  the  Admiralty 
charts  of  Owen's  survey  as  the  Tembo  river. 

In  a  map  accompanying  a  report  to  the  Foreign  Office  of  a  journey 
upon  tho  coast,  dated  July  3rd,  1880,  this  was  correctly  laid  down,  as 
^tsubsequeiit  examination  lias  proved. 

^B  I  think  Cousvd  Elton,  in  his  htnd  journey,  must  haV6  pitfesed  round 
^ptho  head  of  the  inlet  Marazani,  seeing  nothing  of  it,  and,  coming  first 
upon  the  llkubure,  erroneously  connected  it  with  that  inlet,  and  made 
it  flow  into  the  8t»uth-west  corner  of  Mwendazi  Buy.  The  two  rivers 
Mwendazi  and  Mturabu — not  Slkub^va — are  again  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Mkuburo.  They  are  Iwth  independent  streanos,  and  form  no  part  of  the 
delta  of  the  SIkubure,  as  I  confess  I  once  thought.  The  IVrkubure  has 
but  two  months,  close  to  each  other,  formed  by  a  small  island  at  the 
[  entrance  of  the  river. 

Leaving  Mwendazi  on  Oct.  25th,  I  made  a  (|uick  run  to  Mozambique, 
[■arriving  the  same  day,  after  an  absenoo  of  seven  weeks,  in  which  about 
jeoo  miles  had  been  traversed  by  land  and  sea. 

I  cannot  claim  for  this  journey  any  very  important  itiSults.     No 

;  extent  of  new  country  has  bei*n  traversed  in  it.    But  T  think  I  may 

Justly  say  that  it  has  done  something  towards  increasing  our  kuowle<lge 

[>f  the  limited  area  passed  over,  in  that  I  have  been  able  to  throw  some 

light  ufKin  the  hitherto  unknown  Mavia  tribe  :  to  point  out  the  existence 

another,  though  small,  lake  in  the  valley  of  the  Kovnma,   and  to 

l*stronumically  fix  certain  pijsitions   tmly  laid  down  in  our  maps  by 

Ideud-reekoning.     These,  I  trust,  will  1k>  sufficient  to  commend  it  to  tho 

lapprrciation  of  the  Council  of  tho  Royal  Geographical  .Society. 


Igrcat  I 


i  (Adult) 
)  old  mau 


Jifl 

Voman  (adult; 


Umnu 
Mwaciii 
Nubukn 
liaugAlu 


EuRli«h.  MavLa. 

An  old  woman   ..      ..  Nibikmlu 

Head Mutwo 

Arm Mkuuo  (Swahili) 

Leg     .. Lidodo 

Finger        Biala 


JOUiiNEy  IN  THE  DISTRICT  WEST  OF  CAPE  DEI.0ADO  ItAV. 


Engliah. 

fitomtioh     

Hair  (of  head)    .-      .. 

Eyea 

None 

Mouth 

Teeth 

Foot     .. 

Eor      

Breasts       

Beard 

Nail     

LioD 

Tiger 

Goat 

Cut      

llui      

Deer 

Food    ..      

GftSMva      

Indian  com 
^'Kitoweo,"  sometlxiiig 

to  be  eaten  with  rice 

vT  CASsava  to  Savour 

it 

Fifih 

House 

Door    ,.       

Bedstead 

Mat     

Gun     

Axe     ..      

Axe,     anialt,     like    a 

ttnuttliawk 
Chair,  or  small  stool 

Clolh 

Cap      

Lip-ring      

Eur-ring     

Firo     

Water 

Buiti 

Cfoads        

Biver  

Sun      

MfKjn 

Star     

A  emikll  hill 

A  large  hill        ..      .. 

Btono  

Tree 

GrasH,  or  leaves  . . 

Hunger       

Thirst .. 


Mavta. 
Kiturabo 
Witnbo 
Molio 
Mula 
Kaojiin 
Mero  (Swabili) 
Mikatubato 
Matu 
Mttvele 
Chireu 
Dignonibe 
Hiinba 

Lhui  (Swabili) 
Mbudi 
Mtika 
Giagunilo 
Pnnju 
Bilyu 
Mogo 
Dimuri 
Mcbeznba 


llouiba 

Ngiintle 

Niingwft 

L'hinunda 

Klkimdi 

Yuti 

MblM^» 

Muudu 

Kitt-nu 

Eiigizo 

Kijulu 

Ndnim 

Nyoln 

Moti*  (Swabili; 

Moai 

Mbiila 

Nun  git 

Mutn 

Lidu!u 

MwfKlo 

Giimiidi 

Liching:* 

Litumbi 

Mawia 

Ntenv 

Gwjihi 

Ndobtt 

Nyotii 


SiokUDSS KttTttlA 

Wealth,  property      ..  Weng» 

Towu Nkaya 

Ihlaud         Litauda 

Sea       Kumangn 

Danger        Kijoba 

Pence,  calm        ..      ..  Kulidima 

War     .. Vita  (Swabili) 

Ivory Liwenira 

A  btick        IngDogo 

Wttterjnr Chiluiigo 

CJoiikiiig  vessel  ..      ..  Chikwrcro 

God      Nui.gii 

The    devil    (an    evil,  Moboka 
buttfal  spirit) 

Tomuko     ku  madengo 

„  eat kulya 

„  walk      ka  bnrebA 

„  go ku  hena 

„  fall        kuuwa 

„  «1itnd  np       ..  ku  takalaln 

„  sit  down  kn  kikula 

„  Bl>eak ku  tangoU 

„  brat       ku  taifga 

^  figbt       ku  pataua 

„  bteal       ku  iwa 

„  bpg        ku  juii 

„  eon  sent ku  pochorera 

„  rt:rurie ku  kit^iutwa 

„  ciirry      ku  nyjLkuU 

,,  cross  a  river  ..      ..  ku  lovoka 

^  kill        kulia 

„  marry  (of  the  male)  ku  lomba 
^  marry  (of  the  fenmle)  ku  twaugu 

„  give  birlli      ..       ..  ku  veleka 

^  have       a       f<  stive  ku  omba 
gothcring  (ku  piga 
ngnrna) 

„  build     ku  dcngK 

„  tear         ku  papnka 

„  beljj       ku  koijghodt 

,,  flcize      ku  knmula 

„  cut ku  cbern 

„  bind       ku  buDgu 

„  Kv,  look        .,      ..  ku  Ida 

,,  l<ruuk     ..      ,.      .,  ku  teiua 

I,  know      ku  niaiya 

ku  nandriU 
ku  nauibora 


„  accompany    .. 

„  aoLrcli  for 
lieuutiful,  or  gOK»d 
Ugly,  or  bnd 
Strong 


kwabaUla 
okobatign 
dimongo 
Weak uiemwa 


(    ^05     ) 


GEOGEAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Mr.  Thomson's  Expedition  to  Victoria  Nyanza. — ^Wo  draw  attention 
to  the  telegram  at  p.  410  of  this  number,  received  a  few  days  ago,  re- 
specting the  moveroents  of  Mr.  Thomson.  It  will  he  scon  that  having 
reached,  by  a  previously  uuexplorcd  route,  tho  north-western  foot  ot 
Kilimanjaro,  ho  has  been  compelled  to  retreat  to  his  former  camp  at 
Tav6ta,  sonth-esist  of  the  mountain,  ^Ve  hope  soon  to  receive  the  pro- 
mised letter,  with  the  nee<led  pfirticulars  of  the  occurrence. 

Exploration  of  the    Central  African  Lake  Region. — Tho  African 

Lakes   Company  have  commissioned   Mr.  Henry  Binmmond    to   visit 

Lakes  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika,  and  report  on  the  geology  and  botany  of 

[he  basins  of  these  great  inland  waters.    Mr.  Dnimmond  is  well  qmalified 

By  his  previous  studies  for  this  important  work.     Ho  left  England  en 

foufe  for  Aden  last  week,  and  will  reach  Nyassa  viA  Quill imaue  and  the 

Zambesi  and  Shiru  rivers. 

The  Portuguese  Expedition  to  TJmzeila's  Country. — The  Portuguese 

expedition  which  wo  anntMinced   in  the  Januiir}*  number  of  the  '  Pro- 

■teedings  *  •  a«  having  left  Mozambique  in  September  last  for  the  head- 

^marters  of  the  chief  Umzeila,  has  returned  to  tho  coast.     The  rout© 

Pbllowed  by  Lieut.  Cardoso  and  Dr.  Franco  was  from  Inhambane  N.N.W. 

to  the  Sabi  river  and  thonoe  W.N.W.  to  Umzcila's  kraal.     Partly  owing 

to  the  unsatisfactory  nature  of  the  reception  met  witli  and  partly  to  the 

lateness  of  the  season,  tle^y  abandoned  tho  intended  cjontinuation  of  their 

journey  to  tho  ZamlifHi  aud  Sbir^,  and  returned  to  Sofala  and  thence  by 

V  coast  road  to  Inhambane.     It  is  said  that  the  two  officers  have  repoi^ted 

afavonrably  both  of  the  country  and  the  people.     They  saw  no  traces 

mineral    wealth,   the   little    gold    that    is    brought   down  to  Sofala 

pming  from  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Buzi  further  north.     Neither  is 

ke  country  rich  in  agricultural  products  ;  it  is  ill-watered,  and  culti- 

ition  exists  only  on  the  very  smallest  scale  ;  the  people,  too,  are  ground 

down  to  the  lowest  depths  of  poverty  and  niiscry  by  the  tyranny  and 

rapacity  of  the  chiefs,  the  chief  dclinriuent  in  this  respect  being  Umzeila 

himself. 

Geography  in  East  Siberia. — We  have  just  received  five  numbers  of 

the  *  Transactions '  (Isccsiija)  of  tho  East  Siberian  section  of  tlie  Eussian 

—Geographical  Society,  which  has  its  seat  at  Irkutsk.     They  contain  tho 

fcubliBhod  work  of  the  Siberian  geographers  for  1881  aud  part  of  1882. 

The  following  are  the  titles  of  the  principal  articles,  which  will  be  seen 

^O  have  considerable  interest : — The  five  parts  for  1881  contain  :  1.  Notes 

Bki  the  Communal  Life  of  the  Trans-Baikalian  Cossacks  of  tho   3rd 

infantry  Division,  by  M.  Vagin.     2.  Tables  of  tho  Opening  and  Closing 

_of  the  Rivers  of  Eastern  Siberia,  by  N.  X.  Agapitof.     3.  Preliminary 

•  January  1883,  p.  33. 


406 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Eeport  on  the  Geological  Exploration  of  the  Littoral  of  Lake  Baikal 
for  1880,  by  J.  B.  Cliersky.  4.  Askold  Island,  by  M.  Yankofsky. 
5.  Kitchen-middingB  and  Stono  Implements  from  tho  Shores  of  Amuraky 
Gulf,  by  tho  aamo  author.  G.  AnHlysis  of  CoaU  by  M.  Shanuttin. ' 
7.  Caves  along  tho  Biriussa,  by  M.  Bogolyulwky.  8,  Antiqnitioe  near 
Baikal  Lake,  by  X.  N.  Agapitof,  9.  Traces  of  the  St<3ne  Age  in  tlw 
Basins  of  the  Kuda  and  Uuga  rivers,  by  tho  same  author.  10.  Soon 
additions  to  Hitter's  Asia,  by  J.  JX  Chersky.  11.  Same  author,  (>n  thi; 
Question  of  Ancient  Glaciers  in  Eastern  Siberia.  TJic  last  part  con  tains 
a  sketch  of  the  Russian  Polar  Station  on  the  island  of  SagMityr  at  the 
estuarj'  of  the  Lena,  and  fiirthcr  particulars  of  Lieut4?.nant  Jurgen%* 
party,  from  a  letter  to  His  Excellency  the  Governor-General,  dated 
Yakutsk,  December  16th,  1882.  Mention  is  mad©  in  it  of  the  report 
brought  back  by  tho  American  officers  confirming  what  has  already 
appeared  in  the  '  Pruceedinga,'  It  is  further  stilted  that  intense  ojld 
unaccompanied  by  snow  prevailed,  that  the  reindeer  moss  had  been 
frozen,  the  rivere  and  lakes  coated  with  unusually  thick  ice,  and  that 
little  water  remained  for  the  Bsh.  The  earth  was  cracked  into  wide 
fissures  by  the  severity  of  tho  cold.  All  this  promised  badly  for  the 
future.  At  Yakutsk  the  i-oofa  of  the  houses  wore  quite  bare  of  snow, 
and  they  were  expecting  an  inundation  in  spring  owing  to  the  pressure 
of  ice  floes,  and  its  invariable  accompaniment,  epidemic  disease.  Though 
jQrgens  did  not  mention  it  in  bis  letters,  in  order  not  to  cause  alarm,  it 
appears  that  one  of  his  associates^  Bunge,  had  sustained  an  injury  during 
their  voyage  from  a  ftill  off  the  roof  of  their  vessel  while  asleep.  He 
had,  however,  recovered,  and  was  curing  numbers  of  natives  who  applied 
for  medical  assistance.  The  Timgosus  were  two  miles  from  their  statioQ^ 
and  showed  a  most  favourable  disposition  towards  them,  in  return  for 
assistance  given. 

Trade  with  Siberia  via  the  North  Cape. — It  is  stated  that  the 
steamer  Louise,  belonging  to  B^iron  Kno«.»p,  will  this  year,  for  thu  last 
time,  attempt  the  voyage  to  and  from  Siberia,  sailing  in  the  beginning 
of  July.  M.  SibiriakofF  will  also,  in  spite  of  his  previous  costly  failures, 
make  an  energetic  attempt  in  the  course  of  tho  summer  to  establish  a 
regular  trade  with  the  Siberian  rivers,  by  sending  no  fewer  than  three 
separate  expeditions.  His  steamer  A'ortfcWijo W,  which  failed  to  reach 
Novaya  Zoralya  last  year,  will  attempt  to  reach  the  Yenisei,  there  to  I 
take  in  a  cargo  which  has  already  been  brought  to  Saatorovski,  returning 
to  Europe  bc^f..ro  the  wintt-r  sets  in.  Within  the  last  few  days  also  the 
two  captains  have  arrivi-d  at  Ciothctiburg  who  will  take  charge  of  the 
steamers  which  are  being  equipped  there  by  M.  SibiriakofiTs  agent,  M.  J 
Appclberg.  The  Russian  captain  Weido  will  comnmnd  the  newly  built 
steamer  06»,  which  is  to  leave  Gothenburg  with  the  Nordenskiold  about 
the  beginning  of  next  mouth.  The  Obi  will  take  sixtceii  months*  pro- 
Tisione,  and  is  intended  to  run  cargoes  between  the  town  of  Yenisei  andj 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


407 


I 


I 


I 


the  dopot  at  Sastorovski^  besides  keeping  up  communioation  with  the 
Earopean  ships.  The  third  steamer  will  be  commanded  by  Captain 
GrOnb&ck,  who  will  select  a  suitable  spot  either  in  Yiigor  Strait  or  the 
jsoatheim  part  of  Novaya  Zemlya  for  the  erection  of  a  large  warehouse, 
where  goods  which  in  bad  ice  years  cannot  be  sent  across  the  Kara  Sea 
may  be  kept  till  the  winter,  when  they  will  be  transportetl  overland 
by  Samoyedes  to  Obdorsk.  Captain  Gronbiick  will  winter  either  at 
Khabarova  or  in  its  vicinity-  A  Norwegian  ship  will  also  sail  from 
Tromso  with  building  materials  for  the  warehouse,  but  she  will  obtain 
her  equipment  from  Gothenburg,  as  this  place  has  hitherto  been  the 
ing-point  for  all  M.  Sibiriakoff's  Siberian  expeditions,  which  have 
,dy  cost  him  a  million  crowns,  or  about  56,000^  M.  JSibiriakofl*  has 
given  orders  to  the  capt^iins  through  M.  Appellxjrg  to  use  every  effort  to 
render  assistance  to  the  Dijmphna  and  Varua,  if  it  appears  to  be  required. 

SirFrancisDrake,  and  the  Falcon  of  Gold. — In  the  historical  work  on 
Costa  Rioa,  Nicaragua,  and  Panama,  about  to  be  published  at  Madrid  by 
Don  Mnnnel  M.  do  Pcralta,  there  are  some  inedited  documents  relating 
to  Sir  Francis  Drake.  Among  them  there  is  a  letter  from  Don  Francisco 
de  Zarate,  the  owner  of  a  ship  captured  by  Drake,  to  Don  Martin 
Enriquoz  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  dated  Koiilejo,  April  IGth,  1579.  In  the 
narratives  of  Drake's  voyage  round  the  world  it  is  related  that,  when 
this  ship  was  captured  on  April  4th,  1579,  the  owner  was  on  board,  and 
that  Drake  took  from  hini  "  a  falcon  of  gold  with  a  great  emerauld  in 
the  breast  thereof."  It  has  hitherto  been  assumed  that  this  was  an  act 
of  pillage  on  the  part  of  Drake,  and  Sir  John  Barrow,  in  his  Life  of 
Drake,  p.  57,  says — **T)ut  whether  by  seizure,  Ijy  purchase,  or  as  a 
preacnt,  is  not  mentioned. "  After  three  centuries  this  letter  from  the 
owner  clears  up  the  doubt.  He  says,  "He  (Drake)  treated  mo  courteously^ 
and  having  taken  a  fancy  to  some  ornamentfl  of  mine,  he  sent  them  on 
board  his  ship,  and  gave  me  for  them  a  cutlass  and  a  silver  chafing  dish. 
I  promise  j^our  Excellency  that  I  lost  nothing  in  the  bargain,"  The 
whole  letter,  and  particularly  Seiior  Zaratc's  account  of  his  interviews 
and  conversations  with  Drake,  and  of  what  Drake  told  him  respecting 
the  death  of  Doughty,  is  very  interesting.  Senor  Teralta  has  ]>r».'senteti 
the  sheets  of  the  part  of  his  work  relating  to  Sir  F«  Drake,  to  the 
Society. 

An  Australian  Geographical  Society.— At  an  influential  meeting  of 
the  Irieuds  of  googrHi)hy  ht^ld  in  Sydney  on  the  2ud  of  April  last,  it  was 
resolved  to  found  a  Gcograjiliical  Society  in  Australia.  The  objects  were 
defined  to  be  the  advancement  of  geographical  science  in  its  broadest 
meaning,  the  study  of  commercial  geography,  completion  of  the  explora- 
tions of  Australia,  and  the  diffusion  of  the  knowledge  of  the  great 
Australian  colonies  and  their  resources  throughout  the  world.  The 
Society  is  to  be  constituted  on  a  federal  basis  to  embrace  all  the  colonics, 


408 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


and  will  probably  bo  calletl  tlie  "  Geographical  Society  of  Australaaia," 
Mr.  La  Mcsleo  has  been  appointed  Secretary,  and  nearly  100  membera 
have  been  enrolled  in  Sydney  alone.  Some  of  the  chief  promotore  are 
Fellows  of  om*  Society,  and  well  known  for  their  works,  or  for  tho 
intereet  thoy  have  shown  in  geographieal  subjects,  among  them  Mr.  J.J. 
Shillinglaw,  Mr.  Eccleston  Du  Faur,  Captain  C  Pasco,  and  Mr.  B. 
Arrowsmith. 

Projected  Scientific  Expedition  to  Mount  Owen  Stanley.— Mr. 
Henry  0.  Forbes,  writing  from  Timor,  infomis  us  that  ho  is  about  to 
visit  the  southern  coast  of  Xow  Guinea,  and  make  an  attempt  to  reach 
Mount  Owen  Stanley  and  tho  snowy  rango  of  the  interior  of  the  island. 
With  the  expciienco  ho  has  gained  during  his  four  years*  explorations 
among  the  islands  of  the  Malay  Archipelago  and  the  knowledge  and 
Kkill  he  has  acquired  as  a  naturalist,  he  cannot  fail  of  making  inter- 
esting discoveries  if  he  succeeds  in  reaching  any  part  of  the  mountainons 
centre  of  New  Guinea,  and  in  staying  there  some  months.  Since  hii 
visit  to  the  Keeling  Islands  early  in  1870,  of  which  he  sent  na  an 
account,*  he  has  been  engaged  in  exploring  Java,  Sumatra,  and  Timor 
Laut.  In  Sumatra  he  fixed  the  height  of  many  importint  points  in  the 
south-westeni  part  of  the  island,  among  others  Mount  Dempo,  which  he 
ascended,  and  determined  the  altitude  by  boiling-point  observations 
to  bo  10,562  feet. 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

51  IIoLLAxn  Road,  South  Kknbixgtox, 
Dear  Loan  Abekdabe,  June  ISth^  1883. 

With  reference  to  my  recent  letter  published  in  our  *  Proceedings '  on  the 
subject  of  tlie  East  Bygd  of  the  Greenland  Colony,  a  communication  addresBed  to 
your  Lordsliip,  not  by  name,  hut  as  President  of  the  Koyal  Geographical  Society, 
Las  arrived  from  the  Hague,  under  tht-  divte  of  the  1st  of  June,  in  the  following 
words : — 

*'Sir, — After  reading  the  letter  of  Mr.  Major  in  the  *  Proceedings '  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  vol.  v.  No,  5,  May  1883»  page  294,  I  came  by  chance  on  a 
Dutch  chart  from  about  1705,  which  I  take  tho  liberty  to  iodose. 

"  In  my  opinion,  it  shows  clearly  that  East  Bygd,  as  described  by  Ivar  Bardaen 
in  1349,  is  liituated  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  eastward  from  Cape  Farew^ell,  Ad 
supposed  by  Baron  Nordeurikiold, 

"  Ab  a  stranger  I  beg  to  excuse  the  liberty  of  writing  you  this  letter. 
**  1  have  the  honour  to  be,  sir, 

"  Your  obedient  sen-ant, 

"  P.  J.  BUTSKEB." 

I  think  it  was  a  very  courteous  and  obliging  act  on  the  pfirt  of  Mr.  Buyskes  lo 
send  this  chart,  and  one  deficrving  the  cordial  thanks  of  the  Council,  and  I  would 
beg  permission  lo  soy  a  few  words  of  reply,  in  the  hope  that  they  may  be  printed  in 

♦  •  Proceedings,'  1879,  p.  777. 


CORRESPONDENCL 


409 


the  next  number  of  the  •  Proceedings.'    Tbe  chart,  which  is  without  a  date,  l»at 
early  in  tbe  eighteenth  century,  U  entitled   "Pjiscaerto  van  Groonland,  Ysland, 
Straet  Davids  en  Jan  Mayen  Eyland.     By  Casp*  Loots-man  en  Jaco'*  Conynembergh, 
Zee-Caart-rerkoopers  op't  water   in  de  Loots-man.     Anasterdam."      The  persons 
named  are  not  of  necessity  the  authors,  but  the  sellers  of  the  chart,  the  Dutch 
word  ••  by  '*  being,  in  this  ^se,  the  equivalent  of  the  French  word  "  chez,'*  and 
**verkooper"  is  a  "  seller**  or  "dealer."    On  the  ea«t  coast  of  Greenland,  due  west 
of  Icelaud,  are  inserted  several  names,  hut  most  of  them  in  a  grossly  corrupted  form, 
unquestionably  representing  places,  l>jth  in  and  out  of  the  East  Bygd,  mentioned  by 
Ivar  Bardsen,      The  occurrence  of  such  information  on  a.  published  map,  is,  no 
doubt,  prim»  facie,  of  a  verj-^  imposing  character,  but  where  I  would  beg  leavt» 
to   differ   from    Mr.    Buyskes  is   in   his  conclusion  that  "it  ihows  clearly  that 
East   Bygd,  as  described  by  Ivar  Bt^rdsen   in  1.149,  is   situated  on  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  Kistward   from   Cape     Farewell."      That  printed  documents  are  not 
always  vehicles  of  correct  information  is  proved  by  the  testimony  of  this   very 
chart,  on  which  what  was  till  recently  known  a.s  Frobisher's   Strait  is  placed, 
not  in  America,  tut  across  the  south  part  of  Greenland.      The  question,  like 
that  of  the  site  of  the  Greenland  colony,  was  a  hazy  one.      Even  the  learueii 
Icelandic  historian  Turfasus    Imd  already  but  a  short  time  before  adopted  an<l 
printed  the  oft-repeated  blunder,  but    it   was   no   leas  a  blunder  because  it  was 
made  by  that  distinguished  man ;  nor  is  the  author  of  the  Dutch  map  one  whit 
^m  more  to  be  relied  ufion  because  he  hivs  adopted  a  blunder  which  the  illustrious 
^*    Torfasus  had  adopted  before  him.     On  the  other  hand,  an  author's  work  is  not  to 
fall  under  utter  condemnation  because  he  has  published  a  blunder,  whether  adopted 
or  original.     Let  us,  therefore,  revert  to  the  testimony  of  the  Dutch  chart  as  to  the 
Greenland  colony.    Either  it  was  a  purely  theoretical  inference  from  the  nautical 
instmctions  and  chorography  of  Ivar  Bardsen,  or  it  indicated  a  practised  and  well- 
recognised  route  to  the  site  of  the  colony.    That  the  latter  supposition  ia  impossible 
is  placed  beyond  all  doubt  by  the  numerous  expeditions  sent  out  by  the  Kin^  of 
Denmark  in  search  of  the  colony  from  the  sixteenth  century  downwards  to  that  of 
Captain  Graah  in  1828-31,  and,  in  fact,  by  the  present  most  imiwrtaut  exploration 
^^  of  oar  illustrious   medalHst,  Baron  Nordcnskiold,  in  which  we  are  all  so  much 
^P  interested.    It  remains,  therefore,  that  it  was  purely  a  theoretical  deduction  from 
the  language  of  Ivar  Bardsen.   1  also  furmed  my  own  deductions  from  that  language, 
and  stated  the  grounds  of  them  in  ray  former  letter,  wliich  I  need  not  now  rei)eat. 
I  propounded  them  first  in  1873,  both  in  my  work  on  the  Zeni  and  also  in  a  paper 
rend  before  our  Society  and  published  in  the  '  Journal/  and  no  one  yet  has  pointnl 
^^  out  where  they  were  at  fault.     Practical  investigation  of  the  country,  however, 
^m  must  be  a  far  more  powerful  means  uf  provin.;  facts  than  the  most  logical  deductions 
from  words,  and  if  our  distinguished  medallist  is  able  to  settle  this  moot  point 
beyond  all  theory,  no  one  will  rejoice  more  sincerely  than  myself,  whether  he 
confinns  or  disproves  my  ovni  conclusions. 

Dear  Lord  Abcrdare, 

Yours,  &c., 

R.  H.  TiLkJOB. 


No,  VTL— JcLT  1883.] 


2  I 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


and  will  probably  bo  called  the  "  Geographical  Society  of 
Mr.  La  Meeleo  has  been  appointed  Secretary,  and  neai-* 
have  beon  enroll  nd  in  Sydney  alone.     Some  of  the  c* 
Fellows  of  our  Society,  and   well   known  for  thei' 
interest  they  have  shown  in  geographical  subjects 
Shillinglaw,  Mr.  Eccleston   Du   Fanr,  Captain 
Arrowsmith. 

Projected    Scientific    Expedition    to    V  \ 

Ilenry  0.  Forbes,  writing  from  Timor,  in^ 
visit  the  southern  coast  of  New  Guinea 
Mount  Owen  Stanley  and  the  snowy  rr     '^  |  i  4  ** 
With  the  expciicnce  he  has  gained  d        4 1  1 1  ^ 
among  the  islands  of  tho  Malay  A  ^  1 1  \  * 

skill  he  1ms  acquire<l  as  a  natiira'  n 

esting  discoveries  if  ho  succeeds  ' 
centre  of  New  Gninea,  and  in 

visit  to  the  Keeling  Islandn  ixiL  C.Bawlib 

account,*  he  has  been  engo 
Laut.     In  Sumatra  he  fixp     f  f 
south-westeni  part  of  tb 
ascended,  and  dctermi 
to  be  10,562  feet. 


M 


,  i^cf.  Charkn  Alexander  Blad^twnii ' 

.ifntU^  E%i]. ;   Edward  Jlatton  Coohon, 
J  HiwUn,   E-i'i.  :  .hemes  Mami^   Ei^i.  :   Om 


Deab  Lord  ^  ^ 

With  r^ 

suhject  of  ♦  r    ^ 


your  Lor 
Las 


.aog  the  bosiucss  of  the  meeting,  explaine*!  that  ilw 
.^>  WW  detained  in  the  House  of  Lords,  and  that  he  (Sir  H,  j 
^jvfiMSted  to  take  the  chair  in  the  interiin. 
^  that  a  telegram  of  some  importance  had  been  received  from] 
Telegraph  Company  at  Zanzibar,  relating  to  tho  expedition  I 
who,  as  they  were  all  aware,  was  eng^iged  in  a  joumry  fn^m  | 
ef  Africa  vifl  Kilimanjaro  to  Lake  Victoria.     He  had  mrt  with  \ 
esrir  in  the  march,  but  they  did  not  seem  to  be  insurraountahlc, 
^  _  »5  to  the  coast,  and  it  Avas  huped  tliat  he  woidd  start  again  in  a  few  1 


-J*  MJiirmia  was  as  follows : — 


'^1, 1S8.3. — Thomson  reached  Dgare  na  Erobi,  in  Masai  country,  long.  37*, 
ti  5th.  May.    "Was  compelled  to  flee  during  night  to  evade  what  a>uldl 
MCB  a  dbMxstrous  fight,  through  troubles  raised  by  Fischer ^s  caravan  iu  I 
t«fiely  back  to  Taveta,  where  he  camped  lus  men,  and  has  oome  down  to  I 
>  wilH  small  party  in  seven  marches  to  replenish  his  goods,  which  baa  { 
t  miiiMiry  in  consequence  of  hia  retreat  from  Masai  and  prolonged  detentiou  I 
^  tyfcH.    Betums  in  a  few  clays  to  Taveta  to  proceed  by  Anisha,  probably  in  | 
0ga»DJ  of  another  caravan.     Is  in  good  health.     Details  by  post." 

IHr.  FVicher,  tlie  German  explorer  mentioned  in  the  telegram,  it  appeiu^  liad  j 
j^BOfd  a  similar  journey  to  that  of  Mr.  Thomson,  but  it  had  been  hoped  that,  in  so 
«ye  on  extent  of  now  country,  it  might  have  been  so  arranged  that  tho  two  trsvellen 
woM  proceed  by  different  routes.  It  appearetl,  however,  that  Dr.  Fischer,  haviug 
p»&  on  in  advance,  must  have  jw^ssed  to  the  west  of  Ivilimanjaro  whilst  ^tr. 
ThcODflOD,  taking  a  new  route  to  the  east  and  north  of  that  mountain,  overtook 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING.  411 

'  ief  evil  of  this  misadventure  was  the  loss  of  time ;  otherwira, 
ippear  to  have  siiiTered  in  men  or  goods.    After  replenishing 
nm  to  proeooote  his  journey,  and  it  was  to  be  hoped  that  in 
M  be  received  that  he  had  actually  started. 
hen  reed:— 

"9  to  the  River  Cunend,  South- West  Africa.**  By  the 

'lor's  map  and  the  discussion,  in  a  subscquen 


"^,  May  28th,  1883. 
'  'nt,  in  the  Chair. 

':e  the  Duke  of  Portland/ 

•ciS,  the  Secretiry,  Mr.  C.  R.  Markuam, 

.^»js3  of  Anniversary  Meetings,  and  the  Minutes 

^ay,  1882, 

»  appointed  General  Sir  James  E.  Alexandeb  and  Mr. 

^BS  Scrutineers  for  the  Ballot. 

^.iCHAK  then   read  the  Annual  Ke|X)rt  of  the  Council,  which  was  as 

REPORT  OF  THE  COUNCIL. 

The  Council  have  the  pleasure  of  submitting  to  the  Fellows  the  usual  annual 
Iteport  on  the  financial  and  general  condition  of  the  Society : — 

Memhen. — ^The  number  of  Fellows  elected  during  the  year  (ending  April  30th, 
1883)  was  163,  besides  three  Honorary  Corresponding  Members.  In  the  i)rcvious 
year,  1881-2,  the  total  elections  amounted  to  150,  and  in  1880-81  the  number  was 
168.  The  losses  have  been,  by  death  54,  including  two  Honorary  Corresponding 
Hembers,  by  xeaigoatioii  34,  and  by  removal  on  account  of  arrears  of  subscription 
41,  making  the  net  increase  for  the  year  37.  In  the  year  1881-2  there  was  a 
decrease  of  31 ;  in  1880-81,  the  net  increase  was  13 ;  in  1879-80,  58.  The  total 
number  of  Fellows  om  the  list  (exclusive  of  Honorary  Members)  on  the  1st  of  May 
was  3392. 

jPinofice. — ^As  will  be  seen  by  the  annexed  Balance  Sheet,  the  total  net  income 
for  the  Unancial  year  ending  31st  December,  1882  (exclusive  of  balance  in  hand 
and  10052.  8«.  2d,  sale  of  Exchequer  Bills),  was  79372.  6s.  10<2.,  of  which  5652/. 
oramsted  of  entrance  fees  and  subscriptions  of  Fellows.  In  the  previous  year,  1881, 
the  total  net  income  was  8809Z.  19«.  5d.,  and  the  amount  of  subscriptions,  &Cy 
6480^.  6s.  6<;.;  in  1880  the  two  totals  were  85992.  I85.  4c/.,  and  6236/. 
respectively. 

The  net  expenditnre  for  the  post  year  (exclusive  of  balance  in  hand)  was 
8779/.  lOe.  7tL,  including  1135/.  10s.  spent  on  Expeditions.  The  ne^  expenditure 
in  1881  was  8362/.  58.  &/. ;  in  1880,  8454/.  Is.  lOd. ;  in  1879,  6990/.  14s.  2d. 

Tlie  Finance  Committee  of  the  Council  have  held,  as  usual.  Monthly  Meetings 

2  E  2 


(     410     ) 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882^ 

Eleventh  Meeting,  7l7t  Mmj^  1883, — The  Right  Hon.  Lord  Aberdare, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 

Kleotions. — C.  F,  Castor^  Etq.^  m.d.  ;  (hwge  KeUy^  Esq. ;  Duncan  Kennedy, 
Eaq.j  C.  J.  It.  Le  Mesun'cr,  Esq.;  Kenric  B.  Murnty,  Esq.;  H.  C.  Riehardton, 
Esq.}  Lieutenant-Cohnd  O.J.  C.  liohrrts;  James  Jiohertson^Esq. ;  George  Buthef' 
ford,  Esq. ;  Frederick  Verney,  Esq. 

The  following  paper  was  read  : — 

*•  Visits  to  the  Eastern  and  North-Eastem  Coasts  of  New  Gumea."  By  Wilfred 
Powell. 

Will  be  published  in  the  August  number  of  the  *  Proceedings.* 


^Thirteenth  Meeting,  llih  June,  1883.— Major-Gen.  Sir  H.  C.  Kawlissox,' 

K.c»B.,  in  the  Chair, 

Elbctioxs. — Edwin  Clerk  AUanif  Esq.^  c,K. ;  Itev.  Charles  Alexawier  Blackhurti ; 
Bowland  J  Jill  Blades^  Esq. ;  Minard  Camnidl,  Esq. ;  Edward  Ifation  Cookam, 
Esq. :  Joseph  DceUy^  Esq- ;  M-  Henry  Uindle^  Esf/. ;  James  Mann,  Esij. ;  Georyt 
SJitjtpiird  Monjan,  Esq.;  Emil  Teichviann,  Esq, 

The  Chairman,  in  opening  the  business  of  the  meeting,  explained  that  the 
President  (Lord  Aberdare)  was  detained  in  the  House  of  Lords,  and  that  he  (Sir  H . 
Rawlinson)  had  been  requested  to  take  the  chair  in  the  interim. 

He  then  announced  that  a  telegram  of  some  importance  had  been  received  from 
the  Agent  of  the  Eastern  Telegraph  Company  at  Zanzibar,  relating  to  the  expedition 
of  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson,  who,  as  they  wore  all  aware,  was  engaged  in  a  journey  from 
the  eastern  coast  of  Africa  via  luHBi.injaro  to  Lake  Victoria.  He  had  met  with 
difficnltic5  thus  early  in  the  march,  but  they  did  not  seem  to  be  insurmountable. 
He  had  come  down  to  the  coast,  and  it  was  hoped  tliat  he  would  start  again  in  a  few 
days.     The  telegram  was  aa  follows : — 

'*  1st  June,  1883. — Thomson  reached  Dgare  na  Erobl,  in  Masai  country,  long.  37**, 
lat.  3"  5',  on  5th  May,  Was  compelled  to  flee  during  night  to  evade  what  could 
only  have  been  a  disastrous  fight,  through  troubles  raised  by  Fischer's  caravan  ia 
front.  Got  safely  back  to  Taveta,  where  he  camped  his  men,  and  has  come  down  to 
Mom>>aBa  with  small  party  in  seven  marches  to  replenish  his  goods,  which  has 
become  necessary  in  consequence  of  his  retreat  from  Masai  and  prolonged  detention 
at  Taveta.  Returns  in  a  few  days  to  Taveta  to  proceed  by  Aniaba,  probably  in 
company  of  another  caravan.     Is  in  good  health.    Details  by  poet,** 

Dr.  Fischer,  the  German  explorer  mentioned  in  the  telegram,  it  appears  had 
planned  a  similar  journey  to  that  of  Mr.  Thomson,  but  it  had  been  hoped  that,  in  so 
wide  an  extent  of  new  country,  it  might  have  been  so  arranged  that  the  two  traveUers 
would  proceed  by  different  routes.  It  appeared,  however,  that  Dr.  Fischer,  baving 
gone  on  in  advance,  must  have  passed  to  the  west  of  Kilimanjaro  whilst  Mr. 
Tliomaon,  taking  a  new  route  to  the  east  and  north  of  that  mountain,  overtook 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


411 


fftrty.     The  chief  evil  of  this  misadventnre  was  the  loss  of  time;  otherwiBc, 
I 'Mr.  Thomson  did  not  appear  to  have  suffered  in  men  or  goods.    After  replenishing 
hit!  caravan  he  vrould  return  to  proeecute  hia  journey,  and  it  was  to  be  hoped  that  in 
\  few  days  information  would  be  received  that  he  had  actually  started. 
The  following  paper  was  then  read : — 

"  A  Joumey  from  Mossamedes  to  the  River  Canen^,  South- West  Africa."   By  the 
Earl  of  Mayo. 

Will  be  published,  with  the  author's  map  and  the  discussion,  in  a  subscquc  n 
Lfiiunber  of  the  *  Proceedings." 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING,  May  28th,  1883, 

The  Hight  Hon.  Lord  Abebdabe,  Fresidont,  in  the  Obair. 

TONB. — Lfon  Abraham  Emanuely  Esq.;  J7U  Grace  ihe  Duke  of  PorUand; 
ivin^  Esq.,  rjJ.s. ;  JoJiu  Sutfterlatidy  E$q. 

the  commencement  of  the  proceedings,  the  Secretary,  Mr.  0.  R.  Markuam, 
read  the  lules  which  govern  the  business  of  Anniversary  Meetings,  and  the  Minutes 
of  the  Meeting  on  the  22nd  of  May,  1882. 

The  President  next  appointed  General  8ir  James  E.  Alkxaitder  and  Mr. 
f  Tbelawnv  Saunders  Scrutineers  for  the  Ballot. 

Mr.  Mabkham  then   read  tlie  Annual  Kc'iwt  of  the  Council,  which  was  as 
follows : — 

REPORT  OF  THE  COUNCIL. 

The  Council  have  the  pleasure  of  submitting  to  the  Fellows  the  usual  annual 
Report  on  the  financial  and  general  condition  of  the  Society : — 

Members. — ^The  number  of  Fellows  elected  during  the  year  (ending  April  30th, 

[1883)  was  163,  besides  three  Honorary  Corresfwnding  Members.     lu  the  previous 

yejir,  1881-2,  the  total  elections  amounted  to  150,  and  in  188<>-8I  the  number  wa.s 

I  168.     The  losses  have  been,  by  death  54,  including  two  Honorary  Corresponding 

[Hombers,  by  resignation  34,  and  by  removal  on  account  of  arrears  of  subscription 

41,  making  the  net  increase  for  the  year  37.    In  the  year  1881-2  there  waa  a 

decrease  of  31 ;  in  1880-^1,  the  net  increase  was  13  ;  in  1870-80,  58.     The  total 

Dumber  of  Fellows  on  the  list  (exclusive  of  Honorary  Members)  on  the  Ist  of  May 

\  waa  3392. 

Finance. — As  will  be  seen  by  the  annexed  Balance  Sheet,  the  total  net  income 

Lfor  the  Financial  year  ending  31st  December,  1882  (exclusive  of  Iwilance  in  hand 

I  and  1005Z.  8«.  2d.,  bale  of  Exchequer  Bills),  was  7037Z.  6j.  lOJ.,  of  which  5662/. 

conribted  of  entrance  fees  and  subscrii)tions  of  Fellows.     In  the  previous  year,  1881, 

the  total  net  income  waa  8809/.  Ids.  5c?.,  and  the  amount  of  Bubscriptiona,  Ac,. 

C480/,    r.<.    C.f. ;    in    1880    the   two  totals    were  8599?.    18«.    id.,    and    G230/. 

[  respectively. 

The  net  cxpenditnre  for  the  past  year  (exclusive  of  balance  in  hand)  waa 
[8779/.  10«.  7rf.,  including  1135/,  10s.  8j>ent  on  EsjKMlitioui?.  The  uo*  expenditure 
[in  1881  wa»  8362/.  58.  «'/. ;  in  1830,  8454/.  Is.  lOil. ;  in  1879,  ('.990/.  14«.  2d. 

lliP  Finance  Committee  of  the  Council  have  held,  as  usual,  Monthly  lleetingt 

2  E  2 


412  THE  AXNIVERSARV  MEETING. 

daring  the  year,  superriBing  the  accotints  of  the  Society.  The  Annual  Audit  ■ 
held  on  the  ICilh  of  MBrch  last,  the  Auditors  Wing,  on  behalf  of  the  Cotmcli 
Lord  Cottesloo  mid  Sir  Rawson  Jlawsi>n,  and  on  behalf  of  the  Follows  at  Urg*. 
E.  0.  Tudor,  Esq.,  and  J.  Duncan  Thomflon,  Esq,  The  cordial  thank»  of  the 
Council  and  Fellows  are  due  to  tliese  gentlemen  for  having:  freely  devoted  tb«ir 
valuable  time  to  this  jinixirtant  task.  At  the  eod  of  their  labours  the  Auditors  drcsr 
up  the  following  Iteport  to  the  Council : — 

**  The  Auditors  appointed  for  the  examination  of  the  Accounts  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  for  the  year  ending  3 list  December,  1882,  beg  to  report  that 
they  have  examined  the  Ralaace  Sheet  submitted  to  them,  and  compared  it  with 
the  Cash  Bof>k,  Bankers'  Book,  Petty  Cash  Book,  '  Proceedings '  Adverti*emcnt 
B<X)ks,  and  other  books  of  account  kept  by  the  Society,  and  Imre  verified  the 
Balance  in  the  Baokers'  Pass  Book  and  in  the  hands  of  the  clerk  in  charge  of  the 
Petty  Casli ;  they  have  checked  the  entries  in  the  Cash  Book,  and  examined  all 
the  vouchers  for  payments  made,  and  have  found  the  same  to  be  correctly  stated  and 
sufficiently  vouched. 

"  They  have  also  had  produced  to  thorn  letters  from  the  Deputy  Accountant  of 
the  Bank  of  England,  and  from  Messrs.  Cocks,  Biddulph,  and  C/o.,  Bankers,  showia? 
that  the  following  investments  were  standing  to  the  credit  of  the  Society  on  the 
31st  December,  1882  :— 

£      t.    a. 

India  4  iier  Cent.  Stock 1000    0    0 

India  4  i>cr  Cent.  Debenture  Stock 200<:>    0     0 

Great  Western  Kailway  4i  per  Cent.  Debenture  Stock  ,.      ISOO    0     0 
London  and  North- Western  Bailway  4  per  Cent.  Deben- 
ture Stock ..     1000    0    0 

Xorth-Eastem  Railway  4  per  Cent.  Debenture  Stock  ..     1000    0    0 
Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway  Guaranteed  5  per  Cent. 

Capital  Stock         ..      ..      .'.      ,.      4000    0    0 

Caledonian  Railway  4  per  Cent.  Preference  Stock,  No.  1      2000    0    0 

Consols  (Lambert  Donation)   ..      526     0    4 

Consuls      4214     0    G 

Consols  (Peek  Fund)        1000     0    0 

"  The  sale  of  lOOOZ.  of  Exchequer  Bills  was  rendered  necessary  to  meet  the 
Society's  contribution  to  the  '  Eira  Kelief  Expedition,'  which  increased  the  ezpen^ 
<liture  of  the  year  to  that  extent ;  but  this  sum  has  since  been  generously  presented 
to  the  Society  by  Mr.  Leigh  Smith,  and  will  be  brought  to  account  in  the  receipts 
and  investments  of  tlie  present  year. 

"  The  Arrears  of  Subscriptions,  as  well  as  the  Heceipts  from  Entrance  Fees  .and 
Life  Compositions,  appear  to  have  been  alTccted  by  the  general  financial  depression 
existing  in  the  past  year.  The  former  have  increased  from  1302^.  to  1612/.,  which, 
if  valued,  according  to  precedent,  at  one-half,  would  represent  an  asset  of  80C/. ;  bat 
which,  on  the  experience  of  the  last  five  years,  during  which  there  has  been  n  con- 
tinuously  increasing  reduction  in  the  amount  recovered,  cannot  now  be  calculated  at 
more  than  40  per  cent,,  and  would  therefore  represent  an  asset  of  644/. 

"  The  x^rotracted  ilhiess  and  subsequent  death  of  the  Siciety's  Chief  Clerk  has 
not  interfered  with  the  regular  keeping  of  the  accounts,  which  has  been  carried  on  by 
the  present  first  clerk,  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Assistant-Secretary ;  and 
the  Auditors  have  satisfaction  in  reporting  that  the  accounts  have  been  correctly  aud 
well  kept,  and  submitted  in  good  order  for  their  examination. 

"  The  Investments  and  Assets  of  the  Society  on  31st  December,  1882,  exclusive 


^^L              414                                      THE  ANXIVEUSARY  MEETING. 

^ 

^^^^V             Statkmknt  ehowing  the  Receipts  and  Expevditube  of  Iho  Society  from  the  Ymt^^^^I 

^V                                                                   1818  to  the  3l8t  Dec.  188-2. 

■ 

DctlurUdc;             ^H 

Year. 

Casb  ReceipU 
within  the  Year. 

Caata  Amounta 

AmoQDU  Ulvrtted         ^H 

iDTested  in  Funds, 

In  Panda;  actual         ^H 

EapcedMrc           ^ 

t    t.    d. 

£    t.    <f. 

^1 

^^^^^B            Mijcladi^s  TrPftiary  firant  tt  UOOl. 

184^       1          696  10    S 

765     6    1             ^1 

^^^^^H                   for  tbc  P^ast  Afiicau  Ex|)«dltli>u. 

1A49 

778    i    0 

1.094     T     •             ^M 

^^^^^H             ilncluiiM  Treasury  Grant  of  'J500L 
^^^^^H                  fur  the  Ea»t  Alrican  KxpMlitioii. 

1K50 
liiSl 
1863 

1,036  10     S 
1,066  11     8 
1,220    3    4 

877     2  10             ^M 
906   14     7             ^M 
996  IS     1             ^M 

^^^^^1            'iBi-ludcs  Lpgocy  of  3klr.  iki\JiUDla 
^^^^^1                  UUveim.  1606J.  lit.  Id, 

1K53 

1,917     2    6 

1,076     6    0             ^M 

1864 

a,&6<     7     8 

2,l»?  19    3             ^M 

^^^^^1             Mtichirlct  Ll^Kac7  of  Mr.  Alfred  Davit, 

1865 
1866 

2,684     7     0 
•3.372     6     1 

633  lo"o 

3.636     3     1             ^M 

a    1           ^M 

Jt»a7 

3,142  13    4 

378    0    0 

3,i>«0  19    11            ^M 

^^^^^H             UncludMi    I>*gacy  of  Sir    Uotloriclc 

i>>5a 

3,089  15     I 

..         ., 

2,944  U    6            ^H 

^^^^^H                  .MarchlAon,  lOOOl. 

1869 

3.471   11     8 

950    0    0 

3,423    a    9            ^M 

^^^^^H            •IncludM  Mr.  .famei  Yoang'i  Grant 
^^^^H                 for  Congo  Expedition,  2000L 

1860 
1601 

I  sea 

<'<,449  12     1 
4,79a  12    9 
4,669     7     9 

4«6  17     6 

1,368    2    6 
1,3^9     7     6 

s,4o«   a   7         ^M 

T    4            ^M 
3,09ft  19    4            ^H 

^^^^H              Mm  hide*  1009f.  14f.  Gd.aaleof  Fx- 

1863 

6,266    9    3 

1,837  10     0 

3.656     «    «            ^H 

^^^^^^H                   chequer  Bills. 

1864 

4,977    B    8 

1,796    S    0 

3,647    7  to            ^H 

^^^^^^H              'tncludn  Mr.  Jaroe^  Young '«  Grant 
^^^^^^1                   for  tba  Congo  l-jcpediilon,  iMlt. 

1866 
1860 
1867 

4,906     B    3 
6,086     8    3 
6,462     7  11 

1,041     fi     0 
l,l<28  15    0 
1.029    0     • 

4.S0T   a   s         ^M 

4.003  16    0             ^M 
3,943  17                 ^M 

1868 

5,991     4     0 

1,857     3     9 

4,I6«  17  14          ^B 

^^^^^H             "Includeit    Parliamentary   Grant  of 

1869 

>6.8a9  16     0 

2.131     5     0 

0    •          ^H 

^^^^^m                   3ii00l.  to  Ciimcron  Expv4iiion. 

1870 

*n.042     6     1 

3.803    6    0 

10  c       ^H 

^^V                  i-lDcluilea  DonaUot)  of  BOOI.  by  Mr. 

U71 
1»T'J 

'6,637     3     7 
•8.119     7     * 

1,000     0     0 
1,999    4     6 

3.7V6     4     4            ^H 
ft,«r71  IJ    a           ^M 

^^^^^^^H                                                    \^m   «J  I    JjHlUJit^rl  ka 

1873 

'7,7«41  IH  10 

2. (lift     1     8 

6.697  13    e             ^M 

^^H                   **lnclud«a    LpRary   of   Adiuiral    8>r 

1874 

•N.753     6  10 

409    0     0 

7,1>T6    3    3            ^H 

^^M                         Ueorge  Baik,  fr40t. 

1875 

7.934  16  10 

2,003     7     6 

5,683     4  1«             ^M 

^^H                   ^ijnclndefl  T/Pgacy  of  Sir  W,  C.  Trc- 

1876 
1877 

•11.611  11     8 
x'7.950     1  11 

2.538    2*0 

e.itro  13    1          ^M 

8.940  ]7  11*            ^H 

1878 

•>8,iai  10     0 

3,000     Q     0 

fl.36l     9                   ^M 

^^^^^           i*liicliideji  lOOil.  St.  yl.  Bale  of  Ex- 

1»*79 

'>8,079  14  10 

1,551  10  10 

0.990  14                  ^M 

^^^^^K                  cbeqaerliilla. 

1880 

8,699  18     4 

l,5G7     6     1 

8,464     1  lOf          ^H 

1881 

8,809  19     6 

a,s«a   s  <:        ^H 

19*1; 

»»ft,942  15     0 

■■ 

10     7            ^H 

^^H                         *  Tills  sum  Includes  (bo  Sijeciiil  rurllanicntary  Grant  tranaferped  tu  tbt;  Cameron 

tJcprdlUoo  Fund  in      ^H 

^^H                     February,  18TT. 

^^H 

^^^H                         t  Tlilfl  amount  Inclndea  the  paj-mi-ut  of  ttvo  auta»  ofSOuZ^eacli,  contributed  to  tlie  Africau  ExpLoratkin      ^^| 

^^^1                   l-'und  In  tbis  on  J  ibe  previyus  ycur." 

1 

^^H                         i  I'hifl  bvtm  Jnctiidert  ilir-  payini-nt  nf  IQ'H.  iU.  t<>  tbe  African  Exploration  Fond;  *lw  Tl4l.  9t.  14.,  tbe 

^^^K^^           Qaal  p^yiueut  fur  Camorun  £J((>i^djtluu  Fund. 

jccmber.  1SS2. 

1 

^^^^^^                         STATEMENT  OF  ASSKTS— SUt  Dc 

^               Pn?olipld  Hou»p,  Fittinjra,  ftnil 
^^H                         elusive  of  3Iap  Colluction 

Fumitu 

re,  catimnted  (ok-| 
brary   injured  fori 

20,000    0    0    H 

a  and  Li 

^H                   10,000/.)     1 

18,540    6  10    ^ 

^^M                Inve&tmcnlB  (nniouiit  r>f  Stock),  as  detailed  in  the  above  I 
^^H                        Heport  of  the  Aaditors ..J 

^H                Arrearaducon  December  31,  1  SSI         £1*'A'Z 

■ 

^^H                                                      Estimatei 
^^^1                Balance  nt  Bunk        

iat       

644    0    0    ■ 

1 

».wr).3   2   : 

^^1^^                        in  Accountant's  bands 
^^^^^^1                       Me&jird.  StanfofiU  (t^inc 

15  14  1] 

ennid^ 17.SI     7     1 

*        647    4    2  ^ 

^^^^^^^                                                                                   

£».<)  HHl    11      0    ^1 

^^V                   FuMicatious, — Ihe  monthly   'Proceedings*  Las   been  iii?ue<l  with    regularity  ^H 

^^M              daring  the  year;  the  twelve  nnrahers  for  1882  forming  a  volume  of  808  pages,   ^H 

^^M              illufltrated  by  29  original  maps  aad  11  pictorial  engravings,     The  first  i»art  of  the    ^M 

^H              new  publication  entitled  *  Supplementary  Papers/  commenced  on  the  disconliauation    ^M 

THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


415 


of  the  *  Journiil,'  was  published  early  in  the  year.  This  publication,  as  previoualy 
ADDOunced,  is  not  intended  to  be  issued  at  regular  jx?riods,  bat  1)eing  instittited  for 
the  rweptioD  of  Memoirs  too  long  or  elaborate  for  the  monthly  •  Proceedings,'  will 
yhe  wmeA  m  material  offers.  Tlie  first  Part  contain*  Mr.  E.  Colbomo  Baber's 
Beports  of  his  Journeys  in  Western  China,  and  comprises  201  pages,  illastrated  by 
6  maps  and  23  diao^rams  and  engravings. 

Tho  total  cost  of  the  luoutbly  'Proceedings'  for  1882  was  2027/.  0*.  Id.,  this 
amount  inclnding  280/.  IGs.  7'/,  for  free  delivery  to  Fellows  and  572/.  9s.  4'/,  for 
maps.  Tho  cost  of  Part  I.  'Supplementary  Papers'  was  327/,  13«.  5rf.,  JDcluding 
143/.  11«.  for  maps  and  engravings.  Against  this  expenditure  is  to  be  set  the  sum 
of  o44l.  2«.  Id.  received  from  sales  to  the  pablic  and  advertisements. 

Four  editions  of  tho  Society's  *  Hints  to  Travellers '  having  been  exhausted,  a 
new  edition  has  been  prepared  by  Colonel  Godwin-Austen,  Mr.  Laughtou,  and  Mr. 

D.  Freahfield,  under  the  direction  of  a  large  Committee  of  Council,  and  will  be  pub- 
lished in  the  course  of  the  present  month.  The  volume  has  been  so  hxrgely  modified 
nnd  increased  as  to  bo  practically  a  new  work.  Amongst  the  additions  will  be 
found  chapters  on  Geology,  by  Mr.  Blanford :  on  Anthropology,  by  Dr.  Tylor ; 
Medical  Hints,  by  Dr.  Dobson ;  aud  Hint5  on  Outfit.  The  Scientific  Hints  hare 
been  recast  by  Mr.  Coles,  the  Society's  Map  Curator  and  Scientific  Instructor. 

Scient^c  Purjtoses  Grant. — During  the  past  year  fifteen  intending  travellers 
hatre  received  instruction  under  Mr.  Coles,  in  Practical  Astronomy  in  the  Society's 
Obeervatory,  and  in  route-surveying  in  the  country.     One  of  the  gentlemen  (Mr.  0. 

E,  Peek)  who  had  gone  tlmjugh  the  course  of  instruction,  was  selected  by  Mr.  E.  J. 
Stodae,  Radclilfe  Observer,  to  proceed  to  Brisbane  to  observe  the  transit  of  Venus, 
and  others  have  since  left  England  for  the  following  destinations :— The  Congo,  the 
lliger.  Gold  Coast,  Central  America,  Brazil,  British  Guiana,  Central  Africa,  India, 
and  China.  Three  pupils  are  at  present  under  instruction;  the  total  number  of 
lessons  given  during  the  year  was  20O. 

Tho  second  part  of  tho  Society's  large  Map  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa,  by  Mr. 
Ravenstein,  comprising  6  sheets,  was  issued  during  the  year,,  and  the  sum  of  27/.  2«. 
expended  upon  it  for  extra  colouring.  The  third  and  concluding  i>art  is  now  in  the 
pvess. 

Expeditiom  :  Grants  of  In»truinent»  to  TravtHlen, — The  Society's  new  Expedi- 
tion to  East  Africa,  under  Jlr.  Josojih  Thomson,  started  at  the  latter  end  of  the  year, 
having  for  its  object  the  exploration  of  a  direct  route  from  the  coast  to  the  eastern 
shore  of  Victoria  Nyanza,  and  also  the  examination  of  Mount  Kenia,  The  gum  of 
266/.  18*.  was  expended  on  Mr.  Thomson's  outfit  and  preliminary  expenses,  but  part 
only  of  this  appeared  in  the  accounts  of  1882.  The  total  exiKinditurc  is  not  to 
exceed  3000/. 

Instruments  to  the  value  of  4327. 17«.  ha\'e  l>ecn  supplied  during  the  past  year  to  the 
following  travellers : — Captain  H.  P.  Dawson,  r.a.,  Circnmpolar  Expedition,  99/.  lis,; 
Mr.  J.  T.  Last,  East  Africa,  41/.;  Mr.  H.  E.  O'Neill,  Mozambique,  90/.;  Mr,  Henry 
Whitely,  British  Guiana,  10/.  10s. ;  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson,  East  Central  Africa,  145/.; 
Rev.  Thoe.  Wakefield,  East  Africa,  21/. ;  Mr.  E.  Douglas  Archibald,  25/. 

The  instruments  lent  to  the  late  Mr.  William  Appel  have  been  returned. 

Library. — 628  books  and  pamphlets  have  been  added  during  the  past  year ;  540 
by  donation  or  exchange,  and  88  by  purchase.  The  system  of  presentation  of  new 
works  by  publishers,  with  the  object  of  obtaining  notice  in  the  Bibliography  of  our 
•  Proceedings,'  continues  materially  to  lessen  the  necessity  of  purchasing  new  books, 
published  both  here  and  on  the  Continent. 

92  pamphlets  and  small  works  have  been  put  in  covers  on  the  Society's  premines, 
and  300  volumes  have  been  bound. 


iU 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


The  sum  of  62/.  4a.  Ad,  has  been  expended  in  ptu-chasing  books,  and  the  furtber 
sum  of  9(i7.  1«,  Qd.  in  binding  for  the  Library. 

Among  the  more  iaii»rtaut  accessions  are : — The  4th  vohimc  of  the  great  deacrip- 
live  work  '  Die  Balearen,'  presented  by  the  Archduke  Ludwig  &ilvator  of  Au6tm; 
Santo'a  *  Ethiopia  Oriental,'  l(i09 ;  the  facainaile  of  the  Stockholm  cojjy  of  Majnoo 
Polo  ',  the  completion  of  Zaragoza^s  '  Quiroa  * ;  Skipp's  *  HiBtory  of  Hernando  dc  Soto 
and  Florida' ;  Jo!lo  de  Castro's  *  Roteiro  do  Lisbon  a  Goa *  annotated  by  J.  d«  Andr»d« 
Corv'o  (Lisbon  Academy  of  Sciences) ;  the '  Ambassadea  de  la  Compagnie  HoUandotie 
Ters  rEmpercur  du  Japon,'  1722  ;  continuationB  of  tlie  General  Report  of  the  Surveys 
of  India,  of  Max  Miiller'a  '  Sacred  Books  of  tlie  East/  vols.  TL  and  X.  of  Atkinson's 

*  Gazetteer  of  the  North-West  Provinces,*  and  other  minor  publications  (H.M.8ecr». 
tary  of  State  for  India) ;  coatinnations  of  the  '  Memoirs  and  Records  of  the  Geological 
Survey  of  India '(the  Indian  Government,  throu;:h  Dr.  Oldham),  and  of  the  pubUcat»oo» 
of  the  Intdliiience  Department  of  the  WiirOffice  ;  vols.  II.  and  III.  of  the  *  Memoinof 
the  Survey  of  Western  Palestine ' ;  '  Monogratia  del  la  Citt&  di  Roma  e  della  Campngna 
Romana,'  with  3  Appendices  and  Atlas  (The  Italian  Minister  of  Agricultun*, 
Industry,  and  Commerce,  at  the  intercession  of  Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  Ommanney);  the 
2ud  edition  of  '  Studi  biografici  e  bibliografici  sulla  Storia  della  GeografiA  in  Italia' 
(Prof.  Dalla  Vedova) ;  Reports,  pajiers,  and  continuations  of  rubUcaiions  of  the 
U.S.  Geological  and  Geographical  Survey  under  Prof.  Ilaydou,  the  Surveys  West  of 
the  100th  Meridian,  under  Lieut.  Wheeler,  the  Survey  of  the  Rocky  Moontuns 
Region,  under  J.  W.  Powell  (with  bis  Report  on  the  Arid  regions  and  Utah),  the 
C!oast  and  Geodetic  Surveys,  under  C.  P.  Patterson,  the  Geological  Survey,  under 
Clarence  King,  the  U.S.  War  Department  and  the  Engiue<;r  Department  of  U.S. 
Army  (including  Sym on s'  Report  on  the  Upper  Columbia),  the  Bureau  of  Ethnolozy, 
under  J.  P.  Powell,  the  Bureau  of  Navigation,  the  U.S.  Hydrographic  Office  (including 
the  American  Ephemeris  from  1855  lo  date),  and  the  Department  of  the  Interior, 
including  paj^rs  by  Brown  Goode,  Elliott,  Ingersoll,  Swank,  and  Clarence  King 
(presented  by  the  various  named  departments  of  the  U.S.  Government,  or  the 
officers  in  charge)  ;  Reports  of  Surveys  and  other  publications  from  various  branches 
of  the  Canadian,  Newfoundland*  and  Queensland,  Victoria,  New  South  Wales, 
and  New  Zealand  Governments ;  tho  Census  of  Guatemala,  with  supplementary 
^wipers  (the  Guatemalan  Ministry) ;  Pereira*a  *  Etats  -  Unis  de  Colombie,* 
(Colombian  Government,  per  H.  M.  Foreign  Office) ;  Covarubbias's  *  Viaje  de 
la  Comision  Astronomica  Mexicana  ai  Japon*  (the  Mexican  Ministry);  the 
Zoological  aud  Botanical  Api-«ndices  to  General  Roca's  Rejxjrt  of  the  Rio  Negro 
Ex}jcditiyu  (the  Argentine  llinistry) ;  llelniersen  and  Von  Schrenck's  '  Beitrage,' 
so  far  iia  publislieti ;  the  completion  so  far  as  published  of  Von  Schrenck's  *  Reisen 
im  Amur  Lande'  ;  the  continuation  of  the  account  of  the  German  Loan^o  Expedition, 
and  of  Vcth's  *  Midden  Sumatra ' ;  contributions  by  Urechi,  Daponte^,  Micbels, 
Mach6nu3,  Barbier  de  Meynard,  and  Pavet  de  Courteille  to  the  Publications  de 
TEcole  dee  Langues  tJrientales  Vivantes :  vols.  I.  and  II.  of  Scbefer  and  Cordier's 

*  Recueil  de  Voyages  ' ;  the  recent  issues  of  *  Cochin-Chine  Francaisc  :  Excursions  et 
Reconnaissances '  ;  various  pramroatical  works  on  Swahili,  Boondei,  Ashanti,  Fanti, 
Grebo,  Japanese,  &c.  (by  or  through  Mr.  R.  N.  Cust  aud  Mr.  C.  H.  Wallroth) ; 
Lycklama  a  Nijeholt's  *  Voyage  en  Russie,'  <Src. ;  Javorsky'a  Travels  of  the  Russian 
Mission  in  Afghanistan  (Author,  in  Russian);  the  first  vol.  of 'Scientific  Result*  of 
the  Fe^  Voyage'  (Baron  Nordenskjclld) ;  continuations  of  the  Hakluyt  Society's 
rtiblicatioufi,  the  Norwegian  North  Atlantic  Expedition  (Prof.  Mohn),  St.  Martin's 
'  Nouvesiu  Dictionnaire  de  Ge'ographle  Universelle,'  Reclus's  '  Geographic  Uni- 
versclle*  (Author),  Von  Richthofen's  'China'  (Author),  Raiinondi's  *Fera' 
(Author,  per  Col.  Almonte),  the  *  Encyclopiedia  Britannica,'  ninth  edition  (vols. 


4 


* 


A 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  EJECTING. 


417' 


^^  and  di 
^  on  62 

I 


XV.,  Mtesrs.  A.  and  C.  Black),  'Oisseiru  Natural  History/  «tc. 
(Publishers),  and  Perrefs  *Les  Pyrenees' ;  the  new  edition  to  date  of  Murray's  and 
Bajdcker's  Guide  Bt»oks,  GatTarel's  '  L'Algc^rie/  Crevaux's  '  Voyages  dans  rAmcriquo 
du  Sud,'  Kreitner's  *  lui  ftjnen  Osten '  (Uerr  A.  Haider),  Kdvoira  '  Valle'e  du 
Darror '  (Author),  Floyer'u  •  Unexplored  Baluchistan  *  (Author),  Macgregor's 
*  Balochistan/  CV Donovan's  '  Merv  Oasis,'  Capello  and  Ivens's  '  From  Beuguella  t«-> 
the  Territory  of  Yacca,'  and  Lock's  *  Gold '  (Author). 

Seven  new  presses  have  been  erected  in  the  gallery  and  working  room,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Library  and  Map  Committee ;  these  will  hold  some  2000  volumes, 
and  defer  for  some  time  the  need  of  increased  Library  room. 

Map  Uoom. — The  accessions  to  the  Map-Koom  Collection  during  the  past  year 

iprise  1094  Mapi^  and  Charts  on  1683  sheets  ;  13  Atlases,  containing  341  sheets 

ps  ;  3G5  Photographs  and  Views.     Of  these  20  Maps  on  566  sheets,  3  Atlases 

on  62  sheets,  and  9  Views  have  been  purchased.     The  accessious  are  in  excess  of 

thoee  of  last  year  by  437  Maps  on  699  sheets,  2  Athiaes,  324  Photographs,  and 

1  Relief  Map. 

Among  the  moat  important  donations  to  the  Map-Room  Collection  are: — the 
fine  Relief  Map  of  the  Lake  District  of  Ea8t-C^?ntral  Africa  (preseoted  by  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  J.  A.  Grant) ;  294  sheets  of  the  Ordnance  Survey  of  the  British  Isles  (pre- 
sented by  the  First  Commissioner  of  Public  Works,  through  the  Director-General  of 
the  Ordnance  Survey),  139  Charts  of  the  British  Admiralty  (presented  by  the  Lords 
Oimmiasioners  of  the  Admiralty,  through  the  Hydrfjgrajiher),  9  Albums,  containing 
272  Photograjihs  of  the  scenery,  natives,  &c.,  of  Japan,  Java,  Mexico,  West  Indies, 
South  America,  and  Australasia  (presented  by  C.  H.  Wallroth,  Esq.) ;  294  sheets 
of  the  various  Indian  Government  Surveys  (presented  by  H.M.  Secretary  of  State 
for  India),  10  sheets  of  Maps  (presented  by  the  Intelligence  Bran<3h  of  the  Quarter- 
xnaster-Generars  Department),  43  French  Charts  (presented  by  the  D^pot  des  Cartes 
et  Phins  de  la  Marine),  27  United  States  Charts  (presented  by  Commodore  J.  C.  P. 
de  KraiTl,  D.8.K.,  Uydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation),  34  Majjs  on  tJ4  8heet> 
of  Ne^f  South  Wales  and  Queensland  (presented  by  C.  E.  Peek,  Esq.),  11  Maps, 
published  in  Peterraann's  'Gcographische  ilitlheiluugen '  (presented  by  I)r.  E,  Behm), 
8  sheets  of  Sveriges  Geologiska  Undersokuing  (presented  by  the  Dirwtor  of  the 
Survey),  18  sheets  of  ^'orwegiau  Government  Surveys  (iireseutcd  by  riimtitut  Geo- 
graphique  de  Norv^ge),  27  sheets  of  Maps  uf  various  parts  of  the  Chinese  Empire 
(Ms.),  from  the  Chinese  Atlas  of  the  Jesuits,  w  ith  Notes  (presented  by  C.  T.  Gardner. 
Esq.) ;  31  sheets  of  Ma|i«,  by  Dr.  II.  Kiepert  (presenta.!  by  the  Author)  ;  13  sheets 
of  Maps,  published  by  Dietrich  Keimer  (presented  by  the  Publisher). 

The  Maps  in  the  Society's  Collection  have  been  made  frequent  use  of  by  the 
Tellows  of  the  Societ)',  public  uQicers,  and  tho  general  public.  The  largo  Maps  and 
Views  have  been  lent  tor  the  pur[>03e  of  illustrating  lectures  at  public  institutions, 
as  well  as  to  private  individuab.  Thirteen  new  Diagrams  have  been  constructed  on 
the  premises. 

The  adoption  of  the  alM>ve  Report  was  moved  by  Colonel  J.  U.  Batem.vn 
Champaik,  R.E.,  seconded  by  Mr.  IIormczd  Rassam,  and  carried  unanimously, 

PRESENTATION  OP  THE  ROYAL  MEDALS. 

e  Royal  Medals  of  the  year  for  the  Encouragement  of  Geographical  Science 
and  Discovery  had  been  awarded  Ity  the  Council  as  follows  : — 

The  Founder's  Medal  to  Sir  Joseph  Daltos  Hookke,  f.r.s.,  for  his  eminent  services 
to  scientific  geography,  extendi ug  through  a  long  series  of  5'ears  and  over  a  large 
portion  of  the  globe,  while  engaged  in  voyages  in  the  Antarctic  and  Australian  Seas, 


418 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


and  joaraeys  in  ludiii  and  the  Himala}'^,  hi  MoroccOj  and  in  the  Uaitod  States  c^ 
America-,  and  more  csiwcially  for  bia  lonp; -continued  researches  in  botanioil 
geognvphy^  which  have  thrown  liglit  on  tho  fomi  of  the  land  in  prehi&toric  timet, 
and  on  the  causes  of  the  present  distribution  of  the  various  forms  of  vegetable  life 
on  the  earth. 

The  Patron's  Medal  to  E.  Colbobxb  Baber,  Chinese  Secretary  of  Legation,  Pdcing, 
in  recognition  of  the  great  value  of  his  scientific  work,  chiefly  geographical,  dcrtng 
many  exploratory  journeys  in  the  interior  of  China ;  and  for  his  Reports  of  these 
jotmieys,  drawn  up  with  admirable  skill,  nccuracy,  and  completeness,  which  he 
presented  to  the  Society,  and  which  have  been  publiahed,  together  with  route  tD«j» 
engraved  from  his  own  finished  drawings,  in  the  first  part  of  the  '  Supplementary 
Papers.' 

In  presenting  the  Founder's  Medal  to  Sir  Joseph  Balton  Hodker,  the  Pbbsidejtt 
addressed  him  in  the  following  Words  : 

I  have  the  highest  8:itisfaction  in  presenting  to  you  the  Founder's  Gold  Medal, 
intrusted  by  the  Crown  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  to  be  conferred  in 
recognition  of  eminent  services  in  the  cause  of  geography. 

Having  devoted  your  life,  as  \vi\s  natural  to  the  son  of  a  father  illustrious  Ut 
botanical  science,  mainly  to  the  extension  of  that  science  in  all  its  various  branchei 
and  bearings,  you  hare  jret  earned  j-our  title  to  a  distinguished  place  among  the 
geographical  explorers  of  Great  Britain. 

In  1839,  at  the  early  age  of  22,  you  were  appointed  botanist  to  the  Antarctic 
voyage  of  exploration  of  the  Erebun  and  Terwr^  commanded  by  Sir  James  Clark 
Boss;  visiting  in  1840  and  the  three  succeeding  years,  Kerguelen  Island,  New 
Zealand,  Australia,  and  the  Falkland  Iglands — years  of  danger,  hardship,  and  severe 
labour,  lurnoii  by  you  to  admirable  account.  It  was  during  this  voyage  that  yoo 
accompanictl  Boss  in  his  three  attempts  to  reach  the  Southern  Pole,  which  resulted 
in  the  attainment,  during  two  successive  seasons,  of  a  far  higher  soutbera  latitude 
than  had  previously  been  reached,  or  has  been  reached  since ;  in  the  disoovcry  of 
the  Antarctic  Continent,  of  the  great  Ice-Barrier,  and  of  the  active  volcano,  Bfonnt 
Erebus,  in  the  80th  degree  of  S.  latitude.  Besides  contributing  to  the  narrative  of 
that  memorable  voyaj^'e,  you  collected  materials  for  your  great  works  on  the  Flora 
Antarctica,  Novre  Zclandi.'e,  and  Tasmanica,  in  aix  quarto  volumes,  which  esta- 
bliahed  your  reputation  as  a  botanist  of  the  highest  erainenca. 

During  the  prepress  of  these  works  you  became  attached  to  the  Geological  Survey 
of  Great  Britain,  and  profited  by  your  opportunities  of  observation,  the  resaUs  of 
whicJi  were  given  in  several  important  papers  on  "  Fossil  Botany." 

But  it  was  in  the  interval  between  1847  and  1853  that  you  accomplished  that 
work  which  baa  most  closely  associated  you  with  geographical  pursuita.  Armad 
mth  knowledge  of  the  highest  i:npi>rtanoe  and  advantage  to  a  geographical  ex- 
plorer, and  full  of  the  requisite  ardour  and  enthusiasm,  you  resolved  to  proaeoate 
the  exploration  of  some  of  the  moat  elevated  and  least  known  regions  of  the  gneat 
Himalayan  range.  Three  years  aod  a  half  were  devoteil  to  this  object ;  and  your 
work  *  Himaliiyan  Journals  ;  or,  Notes  of  a  Naturalist  in  Bengal,  the  Sikkim  and 
Nepaul  Himalayas,  the  Khasia  Mountains,  &c.,'  has  established  your  title  to  the 
rank  of  a  geographical  explorer  and  observer  of  high  merit.  During  two  seasoas 
you  cxjilored,  unaccompanied  by  any  Eurojiean,  the  loftiest  and  most  precipitous  of 
the  Himalayan  fiasses  and  valleys ;  afterwards,  on  the  borders  of  Tibet,  iu  the 
company  of  Dr.  Campb<;ll,  you  incurred  impriaoument  and  considerable  danger  both 
from  the  mde  region  and  its  ruder  iDhabiti\nt3.  The  result  of  these  travels,  l>eslda« 
an  ample  botanical  harvest,  was  a  survey  of  the  whole  country  of  Sikkim,  and  the 
bordering  districts  of  Nepaul,  from  the  plains  of  India  to  Tibet;  which,  publiihed 


THE  ANXIVERSARY  MEETING. 


«l» 


B^- 


lt»  the  Trigonometricnl  Survey  Ofi;ce  of  Calcutta,  is  still  the  stanclttrd  map  of  the 

luntry ;  and,  even  now,  after  the  laps©  of  thirty  years,  several  of  those  passes,  one 

which  vmB  nearly  19,000  feet  high,  then  discovered  and  measured  by  you,  have 

yet  been  visited  by  no  one  else.    Of  the  bot-iuical  results  of  these  bold  and  enter- 

ling  jooraeya,  your  folio  on  the  '  Khododeudrons  of  the  Sikkira  Himalayas/ 

llttstrated  by  your  own  skilful  j»eocil,  and  your  '  Flora  Indica,'  are  only  a  part. 

This  is  not  the  oocmsion  to  dwell  on  each  step  iu  your  scientific  career  ;  but  I 

aaanot  refrain  from  selecting  for  special  remark  tlie  admirable  lecture  on  ^  Insnlar 

loras,*'  delivered  before  the  British  Association  at  Nottingham  in  1866,  when  your 

lucid  exposition  of  the  peculiar  relations  of  the  vegetable  forms  of  the  oceanic 

iland*  to  those  of  the  nearest  continents  threw  light  on  interesting  problems  in 

ihysical  geo^yraphy  as  well  as  iu  biology.    I  am  assured  by  the  most  comi">etent 

idcos  that  raauy  of  your  papers  subsequently  published,  especially  the  **  Outlines  of 

0  Distribution  of  Arctic  Plants,"  were  masterpieces  of  patient  g:roup5ng  of  facts, 

lalyais  and   reasoning,  and   form  a  contribution  of  the  liighest   importance  to 

ihysical  geography  no  less  than  to  botany. 

Since  tliut  time  your  diligent  labours  as  first  Assistant-Director,  daring  the  life 

p{  your  father  Sir   William  Hooker,  and  afterwards  in  18G5  your  energetic   and 

icce&sful  efforts,  as  Director  of  the  Royal  Botanical  Oardens  at  Kew,  to  continue 

our  father's  work  and  enlan;o  its  field  of  operations,  have  not  prevented  you  from 

iblishing  works  of  vast  volume  and  the  highest  scientitic  value  oa  yiour  favourite 

itudy. 

Nor  is  this  by  any  means  a  complete  record  of  your  geographical  and  botanical 
ork.  Your  journey  to  Morocco,  in  coinpany  with  our  friend  and  associate, 
Mr.  John  Ball ;  your  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  under  the  guidance  of 
yoiu-  eminent  friends  Professor  Hayden  and  Dr.  Aaa  Gray,  give  proof  of  your  con- 
tinued ardour  as  a  geographical  explorer  and  as  a  scientific  observer.  "  No  living 
botanist,"  writes  the  distinguished  American  botanist  last  named,  *'  that  we  know  of 
baa  shared  Sir  J»  D.  Hooker's  opportunities  of  studying  in  place  the  living  vegetation 
i>f  80  many  ]i>art8  of  the  world"  ;  and  I  may  venture  to  add,  tliat  none  could  have 
made  a  better  use  of  thoae  opportunities. 

Your  compeers  in  scientific  eminence  have  not  lioen  slow  to  recognise  your 
worth.  Y'ou  were  in  1854  awarded  a  Royal  Medal  by  the  Royal  Society  of  London. 
Tlie  Universities  of  Oxford,  Cambridge,  Glasgow,  and  Dublin  have  bestowed  upon 
you  their  highest  honorary  degrees.  In  1868  you  were  chosen  President  of  the 
British  Association  at  Norwich;  in  1B73  you  received  the  still  higher  honour  of 
being  elected  President  of  the  Royal  Society  ;  and  it  would  be  unpardonable  in  me 
to  emit  the  fact  that  at  the  Jubilee  Meeting  of  the  British  Association^  held  at 
York  in  1881,  you  delivered,  as  President  of  the  Geographical  Section,  an  address  on 
le  prtigress,  within  that  period,  of  geographical  knowledge  in  ull  its  branches,  but 
more  especially  with  reference  to  the  distribution  of  plants,  of  a  breadth,  complete- 
neaa,  and  mastery  of  the  subject,  such  as  probably  you  alone,  of  living  Englishmen, 
could  have  displayed. 

After  these  honours,  we  cannot  help  feeling  that  even  in  offering  to  your 
ftooeptance  our  highest,  we  are  reflecting  more  distinction  on  the  Society  which 
J)estows  than  upon  the  man  who  accepts  it. 
Sir  J.  D.  Hooker  thus  replied  : 

My  L«3rd  Aberdare,  I  request  that  you  will  accept  yourself,  and  convey  to  the 
louncil  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  my  sincere  thanks  for  the  honour  which 
ney  have  awarded  to  me,  together  with  the  assurance  of  the  high  value  which  I 
itach  to  it. 

It  was  a  matter  of  great  and  sudden  surprise  to  me  to  be  informed,  and  this  only 


420 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


very  lately,  that  ray  contributions  to  Gcograi/hical  Science  had  l)«ca  it^trdod  w 
■worlby  of  serious  consideration  on  the  part  of  the  Fellows  of  the  Geiigraphical 
Society.  I  had  always,  and  throughout  my  scientific  life,  felt  that  I  laboured  ondar 
a  sense  of  ^rcut  obligation  to  geographers ;  hut  I  assure  you  it  never  occurred  to  hm 
to  suppose  that  I  had  in  any  sense  rei>aid  these  debts.  My  Lord,  while  overrating, 
as  I  think,  my  efforts,  you  have,  I  fear,  underrated  the  advantages  under  which  I  hvrt 
worked  In  sailing  under  the  orders  of  Sir  JaraeH  Clarke  Rosa,  to  the  Antarctic 
regions,  I  was  serving  under  the  greatest  navigator  Hince  the  days  of  C<:»ok.  In  my 
journeyings  in  Syria  and  Palestine,  I  was  for  the  first  weeks  the  conapftnion,  or 
rather  the  guest,  of  Admiral  Wasbington,  then  the  Ilydrographer  of  the  Admiralty, 
and  one  who  was  for  many  years  the  honoured  Secretary  of  this  Society ;  and  lastly, 
in  my  expedition  to  Morocco  and  the  Greater  Atlas,  1  had  the  advantage  of  being 
acoomivmiod  by  a  iifmoi  of  European  geography,  our  Fellow,  Mr.  John  Ball,  ta 
whom  we  are  indebted,  rather  than  to  me,  for  the  geographical  results  of  that  journey. 
It  would  have  been  strange,  indeed,  if,  working  under  such  auspices,  no  part  of  my 
latours  had  been  turned  to  the  account  of  geographical  science. 

Again,  it  is  not  as  a  professed  geographer  that  I  have  ever  travelled.  It  wti 
the  pursuit  of  lialural  history  that  impelleii  me  to  wander  first  of  all ;  and  it  la 
biological  science  which  has  been  my  constant  travelling  occupation,  my  main 
resonrce  in  prosperity,  and  my  solace  under  trials  and  difticulties.  If,  therefore,  I 
have  done  anything  for  the  advancement  of  geographical  science,  it  has  been  the 
outcome  of  researches  pursued  primarily  with  other  objects  in  view;  and  this  adds 
immeasurably  to  the  satisfaction  with  which  I  receive  this  medal.  But  there  u 
still  another,  and  a  far  more  weighty  reason  for  my  prizing  the  honour  you  have 
paid  me ;  it  is  because  it  associates  my  name  and  my  labours  with  those  of  so  many 
great  and  remarkable  men,  whose  services  have  proved  them  to  be  entitled  to  the 
gratitude  of  their  country,  la  the  short  interval  which  eiai>sed  between  ray  hearing 
of  the  award  of  this  medal,  and  my  receiving  it,  I  went  to  see  my  old  and  kind 
friend,  your  Assistant-Secretary,  Mr.  Bates;,  himself  a  traveller  and  naturalist,  and 
the  author  of  one  of  the  best  narratives  of  a  natursdist  that  has  ever  been  written. 
My  object  was  to  see  a  list  of  the  Medalhsta  of  the  Society;  for  though  I  knew  by 
heart  who  moat  of  them  were,  I  wanted  to  refresh  my  raemory  with  regard  to  the 
earliest  of  them,  and  to  see  their  names  in  sequence.  Mr.  Bates  handed  me  the 
list ;  it  embraced  just  100  names,  comprised  in  a  period  of  half  a  century.  Of 
these  no  fewer  than  fifty  were  or  had  been  personally  known  to  myself;  and 
amongst  the  very  first  of  these  were  the  names  of  the  friends  of  my  father  and  of 
my  own  earliest  youth ;  men  whose  example  had  fired  ray  ambition,  whose  kind 
words  had  fed  my  hopes,  and  whose  counsel  liad  directed  my  career  and  guided 
ray  footsteps  as  a  very  young  naturalist  and  traveller.  It  is  for  associating  my 
name  with  those  of  these  men,  that  I  do  most  of  all  feel  deeply  grateful  to  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society. 

Next  presenting  the  Patron'6  Metlal,  the  Presidest  thus  addressed  Mr.  Colbome 
Baber : 

If  the  lloyal  Geographical  Society  were  asked  to  justify  their  choice  of  yoo, 
among  several  distinguished  competitors,  for  the  honour  of  receiving  our  Patron's — 
The  Queen*8 — Gold  Medal,  we  should  confidently  refer  to  that  first  part  of  our  first 
volume  of  *  Supplementary  Papers,'  published  by  the  Society,  and  containing  your 
"Travels  and  Kesearches  in  Western  Chitaa." 

The  first  of  these  travels — not  in  the  order  of  printing,  but  in  date^waa  th« 
narrative  of  your  mission  under  the  Hon.  T.  Grosvenor  in  187fi,  sent  across  Yunnan 
to  Bhamo,  to  investigate  the  murder  uf  Mr.  Margary.  This  narrative,  in  spite  of  the 
disadvantage  of  making  its  appearance  as  a  Blue-book,  and  therefore  obtaining  but  a 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


4^ 


» 


limited  circulation,  yet  *•  a  fit  audience  found  though  few,"  and  made  European 
geographers  acquainted  with  the  !act  that  a  gec^raphical  observer  and  narrator 
of  remarkable  xx)wer  had  apjieared  in  the  Far  East.  The  map  accompanying  this 
Blue-bcM^k  was  from  your  survey. 

Tliis  narrative  wa«  speedily  followed  by  a  Journey  of  Exploration  in  Western 
Bsfl-ch'nan  in  1877,  upon  which  ixjrhaps  rest  your  highest  claims  as  a  traveller 
%ad  explorer.  This  journey,  which  completed  much  which  wos  attempted  by  our 
jiminent  medallist,  Baron  Ferdinand  von  Richthofcn  in  1872,  who  was  Itaftb-d  in  his 
by  native  hostility,  and  which  extended  largely  the  knowledge  of  that 
district  acquired  by  the  distinguished  French   tniveller  Francis   Garnier  in 

■,  was  in  great  part  over  entirely  new  ground,  and  introduced  us  to  the  know- 
f  ledge  of  several  objects  of  the  highest  interest,  such  as,  among  many  others,  Mount 
Omi,  a  notable  place  of  Buddhist  pilgrimage,  of  which  and  its  unique  antiquities 
you  gave  a  roost  graphic  description ;  and  as  the  little-known  people,  the  Lolos, 
from  whom  you  brought  bock  copious  specimens  of  their  books,  written  in  an 
alphabetic  character  which  still  remains  undeciphered.  But  perhaps  its  greatest 
value  depends  upon  the  many  important  corrections  of  the  Jesuit  surveys  in  those 

made  in  the  time  of  the  Emjieror  Kang-Hi,  which  for  more  than  a  century  and 

Halt  have  been  the  basis  of  all  our  maps  of  China. 

Another  journey  in  1878  in  the  same  province,  when,  following  the  earUer  part 
of  yotir  former  route  westward  from  Kia-ting-fu,  you  turned  northward  by  a  new 
line  of  mountain  country  occupied  by  the  Sifan  trilies,  to  the  now  well-known  town 
of  Tacliien-lu  on  the  great  Lhassa  road,  made  a  considerable  addition  to  the  accurate 
knowledge  of  those  regions. 

The  same  '  Supplementary  Papers  *  also  contain  a  mml  interesting  and  valuable 
monograph  by  you  on  the  Chraese  tea-trade  with  Tibet.* 

In  all  these  journeys  you  made  careful  route  surveys,  checked  by  observations 
for  latitude  and  longitude.  The  maps  which  have  been  published  in  our  volume, 
embrace,  on  your  principal  journey  alone,  121  astronomical  determinationB of  latitude 
and  7  of  longitude,  and  the  care  atid  neatness  with  which  these  surveys  were  drawn 
by  you  excited  general  admiration. 

Of  these  great  services  to  geography  I  have  given  only  the  dry  outlines.  It  is 
the  merest  justice  to  you  to  add  tbut  your  journeys  have  l)een  excej^tiouaUy  produc- 
tive, because  of  the  exceptional  store  of  \  arious  and  accurate  knowledge  with  which 
you  started  on  your  travels.  Your  mastery  of  the  Chinese  language,  and  of  Chinese 
customs  and  habits  of  thought,  enabled  you  to  collect  a  great  amount  of  miscella- 
neous information,  which  has  been  conveyed  in  narratives  full  of  novelty,  vivacity, 
and  sustained  interest.  Altogether  both  in  these  journeys  and  the  report  of  thuir 
results  you  have  displayed  the  qualities  of  an  accomplished  traveller  in  a  degree  of 
which  we  have  had  few  examples  wjd  which  fully  justify  our  choice  of  you  for 
sharing  with  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  our  highest  distinction,  even  although  you  have,  we 
firmly  believe,  only  given  the  first-fruits  of  that  rich  harvest  which  we  expect  from 
your  matured  powers  and  cnhu"ged  experience. 

Mr.  E.  CoLBORKK  Baber  in  reply  spoke  as  follows  l 

la  receiving  this  distinguished  honour  from  your  Lordship*s  hands,  I  beg  to 
acknowledge  my  most  complete  and  grateful  recognition  of  the  indulgence  which  has 
been  extended  to  me  by  the  Honourable  Council  of  this  Society.  At  the  same  time 
it  will  not,  I  trust,  seem  ungraceful  or  vainglorious  if  1  afl&rm  that  one  almost  hope- 
less ambition  of  my  life  has  to-day  been  realised.  I  make  no  doubt  that  all 
travellers  in  the  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  animated  with  some  hope  of  one  d.'iy  gain- 
ing the  Gold  Medal  of  this  famous  Society,  the  highest  distinction  which  the  geo- 
graphical world  can  bestow.   Bui  in  my  case  that  coveted  prize  has  been  conferred  so 


422 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETLNG. 


unexpectedly — lesS)  I  take  it,  as  ft  reward  for  vrorls.  which  I  have  done,  Uiaq  «  ux 
eocouragement  for  work  which  I  Lope  to  do — that  I  cannot  find  words  to  catprm 
mj  sense  of  sudden  glory  aod  dehght,  and  my  most  aident  desire  to  aoootgpludi 
somolhing  more  worthy  of  your  consideration.  If  I  might  mingle  a  strain  of  regrcl 
with  my  pride  and  gratitude,  I  would  say  that  the  work  for  which  I  have  been  sc» 
lavishly  rewarded  was  atimulated  hy  the  approval  and  sympathy  of  my  Umenled 
friend  and  fellow-traveller.  Captain  Gill,  and  I  shall  always  associate  the  honoar 
which  you  have  conferred  upon  me  with  the  memory  of  that  fearless  aod  faitliful 
soul 

The  Awaed  of  the  Mukchison,  Back,  ash  Cutubeut  Peek  GfiAim. 

The  termis  of  these  awards  were  read  hy  the  Pbesidest. 

The  Murcliison  Grant  for  1883,  to  Wm.  Deans  Cowan,  fur  Ida  extensive  surreys 
in  the  TamUa,  Betsileo,  and  Bara  Provinces  of  Central  Madagascar,  an  accoont  of 
which  was  read  hy  him  to  the  Society  in  June,  1882,  and  published  in  the  September 
No.  of  the  *  Proceedings  *  of  the  same  year.  Also  as  an  encouragement  to  him  in  the 
new  journey  of  exploration  he  is  about  to  undertake  in  Western  Madagascar. 

The  Back  Grant  for  1883,  to  L'AoBfc  Petitot,  for  his  geographical  and  ethno- 
logical researches  in  the  region  of  the  great  lakes  of  the  Arctic  Basin,  between  Grwt 
Slave  Lake  and  the  Polar  Sea,  and  Ins  map  of  tbe  basin  of  the  Mackenzie, 

The  Culhbert  Peek  Grant  for  1883,  to  F.  C.  Selous,  in  acknowledgment  of  the 
value  of  his  geographical  researches  in  South  Central  Africa,  including  a  journey  in 
1877  through  the  Manica  country,  north  of  the  Zambesi,  published  with  a  map  ia 
our  'Proceedings'  (1881,  p.  169),  an  examination  of  the  hydrographical  system  of 
the  Chobo  ('Proceedings,*  18S1,  p.  71),  and  two  journeys  by  previously  untroddea 
routes  through  Mashona-land  ('Proceedings,'  1881,  p.  352,  and  1883,  May  No.), 
carefully  prepared  maps  of  which  he  communicated  to  the  Society.  Also  as  oa 
encouragement  to  him  in  the  further  reijearclies  in  geography  and  natural  history  he 
has  undertaken  in  the  same  region. 

Pbesentation  of  the  Public  Schools*  Pbize  Medals.* 

The  Medals  had  been  awarded  as  follows  by  the  Examiners,  who  were,  for 
Physioal  Geoqrapht,  Professor  H,  N.  Moseley,  m.a.,  f.r.b.,  and  for  Political 
GEOGBAPnv,  Genenil  Sir  J.  H.  Lefroy,  k.a-,  k.c.m.o.  ;  the  special  subject  for  the 
year  being  the  Dominion  of  Canaila. 

Physical  Gieograi'IIY. — Gold  Medal — Tliomas  Rose,  Dulwich  College.  JSi7wt 
jlferf(^/^  Samuel  William  Carruthers,  Dulwich  CL»Ile!:e.  HotiouraUy  MeniioncJ— 
James  Douglas  Dallas,  London  Intoraational  College;  Edward  George  Stubfae, 
Liver|xx>l  College  j  Charles  Alexander  Maclean  Pond,  City  of  London  School. 

Political  Geoobapht.— 6'o/(i  Medal— Sydney  Charles  Fsrlow,  Harrow  SohooL 
Silver  Afedal — Not  awarded,  lionmn-ahly  Mmticfned— Axthm  Frank  Bowker, 
University  College  School. 

Mr.  Frascis  Galtost  (Chairman  of  the  Public  Schools'  Prizes  Committee) 
stated  that  ten  schools  had  sent  candidates  to  the  examination  this  year;  seven  of 
these  sent  eleven  candidates  in  Physical  Geography,  and  f«>ur  sent  six  candidates 


*  The  other  medals,  for  the  promotion  of  Geographical  Education,  placed  by  tho 

&3ciety  at  the  disposal  of  the  syndiratea  respectively  of  the  Oxford  and  Ciimbridge 

Local  Examiuations,  were  awarded  as  follows  : — 

1882.  Oxford  (Juue).— i?i?cffr  itfeiu/— Herbert  William  Horwill,  Taunton.     i?rwi« 

Medat — Frederick  Wynne  Lloyd,  Liverpool, 

Camhridgo    (December).— iS»Vii«rf    Maid — (Fhysiciil    Geography) — EAtberine 

Mary  Emery.  -Si/ccrifoiaJ— (Fob tical  Geography)— R.  P.  Smith,  Leamingtoa. 


TH£  ANXIVEESARY  MEETING. 


488 


Folitical  Geogmf^ij.  This  he  was  sorry  to  say  was  the  smallest  response  they 
ad  as  yet  met  with.  No  less  than  forty-eight  schools  were  invited.  The  numbers 
luctnated  from  year  to  year.  For  the  Cret  time  no  silver  medal  had  beuii  adjudged 
Political  Geography,  the  one  candidate  who  deserved  honourable  mention  hardly 
itainiag  the  necessary  level.  Dulwich  had  won  a  medal  every  year  since  1875. 
The  Gold  Medal  in  Political  Geography  had  been  awarded  to  a  Harrow  boy  who 
atoned  the  silver  medal  last  year. 

"•general   Sir    nE>'^RY    Lefroy    introduced  the    suocessfol    candidates  to  the 
Pircffldent,  who  presented  them  with  tlie  medals. 

The  President  announced  that  the  .special  subject  for  examination  in  1884 
would  be  "  Indin," 

The  Balix)t. 

Previous  to  taking  the  votes, 

Sir  Hknbt  Rawlisson  said  it  was  certainly  very  honourable  to  the  di.scernment 
[and  appreciation  of  character  possessed  by  the  Swiety,  although  it  entailed  some 
Ipractical  inconvenience,  that  it  so  often  hapjiened  that  when  they  selected  a  dia- 
aished  person  to  preside  over  them,  Her  Majesty's  Goverament  appointed  the 
►  individual  to  some  imiwrtant  office  of  State.  It  had  hapjicned  on  three  former 
the  cases  of  Lord  Ripon,  Lord  Dufferin,  and  Lord  Northbrook ;  and  it 
again  in  the  case  of  Lord  Lansdowne.  For  the  last  three  years  Lord 
dare  had  jiresided  over  their  councils  wth  singular  vigour  and  abUity,  and  to 
I  manifest  advantage  of  the  interests  of  the  Society,  but  he  was  now  entitled  to 
i  respite  from  work,  and  it  had  been  accordingly  proposed  to  transfer  his  duties  to 
IXord  Ltinsdowno.  Within  the  last  week  or  ten  days,  however,  the  Government 
sigmified  its  intention  of  confiding  to  Loni  Lansdowne  the  honourable  and 
nsible  duties  of  the  government  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada ;  and  under 
circumstances  he  had  been  obliged  to  withdraw  his  acquiescence  in  this 
[election  as  President ;  but  it  would  be  with  a  feeling  of  great  satisfaction  that  the 
Ixnembers  would  learn  that  Lord  Aberdare  had  consented  to  continue  in  harness. 
[Puring  the  past  three  years  he  had  given  such  universal  satisfaction  by  his  genial 
lb*'aring,  his  strict  attention  to  the  duties  of  the  Society,  his  thorough  business  habits, 
[and  his  extensive  acquaintance  with  gcograpbical  bubjecta,  that  they  would  all 
[appreciate  at  its  full  worth  Ihe  obligation  ho  now  conferred  upon  them  by  con- 
l  sentiog  to  continue  the  direction  of  their  affairs.  The  Council  was  prepared  to  yield 
bim,  as  it  had  always  done,  the  most  earnest  and  loyal  support  in  the  fulfilment  of 
I  his  duties,  and  he  (Sir  Henry)  was  authorised  by  them  to  recommend  the  nomi- 
I  nation  of  Lord  Aberdare  as  President.  A  subsidiary  arrangement  was  thus  facili- 
I  tated,  whereby  they  were  able  to  appoint  as  Vice-President  Mr.  Francis  Galton,  one 
[  of  the  oldest  supporters  of  the  Society,  whose  services  they  would  otherwise  have 
I  temi)Onirily  lost. 

The  Scrutineers  reported  the  result  of  the  Ballot  to  be  that  the  recommendations 
I  of  tlie  Council  were  adopted.  The  followiug  is  the  list  voted  (the  names  printed  in 
I  iUiIict  being  new  members,  or  those  who  change  office). 

Pre$idetd:  Right  Hon.  Loni  Aberdare,  F.B.S.  Vice-Presi'lents.'  Sir  Rutherford 
J  Aloock,  K.c.B.  ;  Sir  Barrow  H.  Ellis,  k.c.s.i,  ;  Right  Hon,  Sir  H.  Bartle  E.  Frere, 
I  Bart.,  G.c.D. ;  Frauds  Galton^  Kaq.^  F.B.S.;  General  Sir  J.  H.  Ijefroy,  B.A.,  k.c.m.g.  ; 
I B.  H.  Major,  Esq.,  P.8.A.  Trexvaircr :  Reginald  T.  Cocks,  Esq.  Trustees :  Lord 
I  Houghton,  T>.c.L.  ;  Sir  John  Lubbock,  Bart.,  f,b.8.  Secretaries:  Clements  R. 
I  Markham,  Esq.,  c.b.  ;  Douglas  W.  Freahfield,  Esq.  Foreign  Secretary  :  Lord  Arthur 
[Busscll,  ii.p.  Mcjobers  of  Council:  John  Ball,  Esq.,  r.B.s,;  E.  H.  Bunbury,  Esq.; 
it  T.  Fowcll  Buxton,  Bart ;    QQlqnslff,  II.  ,$atefna^.   Qhan^iaiHt  b.e,  ;   Mnjoi- 


idi 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  JIEETING. 


General  A,  C.  Cooke^  r.e.  ;  Right  Hon.  Lord'  Cottesloe ;  K.  N.  Cost,  Esq. ;  Jama 
FerguBson,  Esq.,  r.B.s. ;  Colonel  J.  A.  Grant,  c.b.,  c.s.l,  P.n.e. ;  J.  K.  Laiighton,  , 
Esq.;  S.  P.  Low,  Esq. ;  W.  Mackinnon,  Esq.,  c.i.e.  ;  Bear- Admiral  H.  C.  Sfaiinf,  ' 
C.B,;  Major- Geiiaal  Sir  If.  ('.  Jiawlinsou,  k.c.b. ;  Sir  Rawson  Rawson,  K.c.if.o.; 
Major- General  C.  P.  liUjhy;  General  R.  Strachey,  R.E.,  c.8.i.,  F.ii.8. ;  General  Sir  H. 
L.  Thujllier,  c.8.i. ;  Qmeral  Sir  C,  P.Beauehamp  Walker,  K.C.B. ;  Sir  Allen  Toung^ 
C.B, ;  Colonel  Henry  Yule,  c.b. 

The  pBEsn>ENT  then  read  the  Annual 'Address  on  the  Progress  of  Geography. 

Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  Ommannet  pro^wsed,  and  Captain  Pe.\cocic  seconded  a 
vote  of  thanks  to  tbe  retiring  Members  of  Council,  the  Committee,  Auditors,  aod 
Scrutineers. 

The  motion  was  tinanimously  agreed  to,  and  the  Meeting  then  separated. 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  DINNER. 

The  customary  dinner  in  celebration  of  the  Anniversary  Meeting  took  pUoe  at 
Willis's  Rooms  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day ;  Lc»rd  Aberdabe,  President,  in  the 
Chair.    IGO  memhcrs  and  guests  and  friends  sat  down, among  them  the  following: — 

The  Marquis  of  Lansdowne  ;  the  Earl  of  Northbrook  ;  Lard  Houghton  ;  Mr.  W. 
S|K>ttisvvoode  (President of  the  Royal  Society) ;  Professor  Huxley ;  Sir  J.  D.  Hooker; 
Mr,  E,  Ccilborne  Baher ;  the  Hon.  S.  Ward,  of  New  York ;  Colonel  G.  E.  Church ; 
Sir  Bartlo  Frerc;  Sir  H.  C.  Rawlinson ;  Sir  Freiierick  Pollock ;  General  Sir  J.  Hills; 
General  Sir  J.  H.  Lefroy  ;  the  Malagasy  Ambassadors,  RavoninahitriniariTO  and 
Ramaniraka ;  M.  C.  Boissevain  j  Dr.  Emil  Holuh ;  Sir  Fowell  Buxton ;  Grener»l 
R,  Strachey;  Sir  R.  W.  Rawson;  Colonel  Grant;  General  Righy ;  Sir  H.  EL 
Thuillier;  Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  OmmaDuey;  General  Sir  Bcauchamp  Walker; 

The  toasts  were :— 1.  "Her  Majesty  the  Queen,  Patron  of  the  Society;** 
2.  "ITie  Prince  of  Wales,  Vice-Patron,  the  Duke  of  Eilinlriurgh,  Hon.  President 
and  the  other  meinljcrs  of  the  Royal  Family ;  "  3.  "  The  ^Medallists  of  the  year.'" 
In  proposing  this  toast,  the  President  said  tliero  was  no  duty  caj^t  ujwn  the  Council 
of  a  more  delicate  character,  and  none  perfonued  with  more  conscJcntions  care 
than  tlie  selection  of  those  to  whom  they  ])resented  the  Royal  Medals,  So 
great  was  the  impartiality  with  which  those  medals  had  been  bestowed,  that  he  did 
not  rememter  whether  of  late  years  the  greater  number  of  the  recipients  had  been 
English  or  foreign  travellers  of  distinction.  On  the  present  occasion  the  Council  had 
<;ome  to  the  conclusion  that  they  could  not  bestow  thcra  more  worthily  than  upon  the 
two  distinguished  gentlemen  whose  names  were  familiar  to  all — Sir  Joseph  Hooker 
tuid  Mr.  Col  borne  Baber. — In  responding  to  the  toast  Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  after  touching 
ujKin  some  of  the  jioints  reforretl  to  by  the  President,  said  that  in  looking  over  ths 
list  of  medallists,  he  saw  that  tho  medals  h.id  been  geoerally  granted  for  grvat  and 
distinguished  discoveries  and  explorations,  for  what  he  might  not  unjustly  call  great 
geographical  results.  But  as  time  went  on,  it  api>eared  to  him  that  the  subject 
would  be  exhftust<?<l,  and  that  even  those  meteoric  showers  of  which  ostronamera 
talked  would  not  enlarge  the  field  for  discovery  rapidly  enough  to  occupy  an  unending 
series  of  medallists.  He  had  been  reminded  by  Lord  Lansdowne  of  a  Royal  Academy 
dinner  when  one  of  tho  best  BiHSchea  of  the  occa.^ion  was  made  by  Mr.  Gladstone, 
who  had  to  respond  to  literature,  and  gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  as  the  literature  of 
tlie  past  might  bo  called  the  literature  of  production,  the  literature  of  the  future 
would  be  the  literature  tif  criticism.  Some  such  distinction,  he  was  inclined  to 
think,  might  be  applied  to  the  subject  with  which  this  Society  was  concerned, 
and  that,  while  the  geography  of  the  past  had  been  characterised  by  discovery,  the 


THE  ANNIVERSARY  MEETING. 


425 


I 


geography  of  the  future  wouM  he  engaged  with  hiological  rescftrch.  With  rej^ard  to 
the  bestowal  of  medals  u{x)n  foreigners,  he  could  not  help  saying  that  many  of  those 
foreigners  had  abounded  in  a  kind  of  knowledge  in  which  we  had  Iwen  all  too 
deficient.  Still,  if  he  were  asked  of  what  nationality  the  geographers  of  the  future 
would  be,  he  should  say  that  Englislimen  would  carry  off  the  prize,  and  that  the 
flag  of  England  would  be  found  iloatmg  at  the  peak  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  of  Loudon. — Mr.  Colboriie  Baljer  also  sjK)ke  in  acknowledgraent  of  the  toast. 
4.  "  Other  Scientific  Societies,"  proposed  by  the  Marquis  of  Lansdowne.  His 
Lordship  said  the  very  comprehensiveness  gave  the  toast  importance  in  his  eyes.  It 
was  prtthahly  within  the  knowledge  of  some  there  that  but  for  an  event  very  much 
unforeseen  by  him  he  might  have  aspired  to  fill  the  Chair  at  present  filled  by  his 
friend  on  the  right,  and  he  was  convinced  that  when  Lord  Aberdare  allowed  him  to 
propase  this  toast  ho  did  so  from  a  wish  to  give  him  an  opijortunity  of  expressing 
his  most  sincere  thanks  to  some  of  his  friends  who  were  ready  to  acquiesce  in 
conferring  upon  him  a  distinction  he  had  no  right  to  ex|)oct.  He  need  not  say  how 
much  he  coveted  the  honour  of  occupying  a  Chair  which  had  been  filled  by  such  men 
as  Murchison,  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  Lord  Kipon,  Lord  Northbrook, 
Lord  Dufferiu,  and  his  friend  Lord  Aberdare.  He  felt  some  compensation  for  the 
loss  he  had  sustained,  however,  in  the  refiection  that  if  ho  had  baen  allowed  to  fill 
tlie  President's  Chair  the  Society  would  have  found  before  ho  had  been  many  months 
in  it  that  they  had  an  incompetent  President,  while  he  should  have  found  that  he 
bad  undertaken  a  task  too  heavy.  As  it  was,  he  might  persuade  himself  that  he 
was  a  sort  of  Marcellus  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Sodety,  and  he  was  reminded  of  a 
;e  in  Virgil  which  Dryden  translated — 


**  This  youth,  the  blissful  vision  of  a  day. 
The  Fates  just  showed  to  uarth,  then  snatched  away." 


^jjjjage 

^■fiartftinly  any  one  who  had  been  within  meaaurable  distance  of  the  Chair  of  the 
^HBqr^  Geographical  S4.>ciety  had  no  right  to  talk  of  himself  as  a  youth,  and  he 
abould  not  undertake  to  describe  hitnwlf  as  a  blissful  vision  ;  but  there  was  a 
blissful  vision — the  vision  he  had  enjoyed  of  the  courtesy  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Sodety  and  of  their  brilliant  hospitality  that  evening,  and  he  should  carry  away 
a  very  vivid  recollection  of  the  reception  they  had  given  his  name,  and  of  the 
readiness  they  had  shown  to  confer  upon  him  a  great  distinction.  Having  so  far 
digressed  into  matters  which  concerned  himself,  he  should  now  say  a  few  words 
with  regard  to  the  toast  he  had  to  propose.  Remarking  that  one  of  the  things 
which  had  been  deeply  impressed  tipon  his  mind  was  the  close  alliance  and  inter- 
dependence of  all  branche.'!  of  science,  he  puinted  to  the  services  to  geographical 
science  rendered  by  the  distinguished  botanist  on  his  left  (Sir  Joseph  Hooker),  and 
obe«rved  that  there  was  no  Society  more  iutiiaately  connected  with  other  scientific 
societies  than  this.  With  this  toast  he  should  join  the  names  of  the  President  of 
the  Royal  Society  and  of  Professor  Huxley. 

I  Mr.  W.  Spottiswoode,  in  responding,  observed,  in  reference  to  a  remark  made  by 
Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  on  the  possibility  of  the  function  of  this  Society  ceasing,  that  if 
by  geographical  exploration  was  intended  a  series  of  great  ex^jieditions,  the  success  of 
which  had  been  as  much  due  to  the  pluck  and  patience  with  which  they  had  been 
conducted  as  to  any  preparation  for  the  undertaking,  then  he  must  admit  the 
ftmction  of  the  Society  was  finite  ;  but  if  they  meant  an  accurate  delineation  of  the 
earth's  surface,  and  an  exact  account  of  its  inhabitants  and  their  habits,  of  the 
animal  and  vegetable  life  and  its  distribution  over  the  face  of  the  globe,  then  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  had  a  long  and  brilliant  career  before  it. 

Professor  Huxley  expressed  resret  that  he  was  no  longer  so  intimately  acquainted 
No.  YII.— July  1883.]  2  p 


42G 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


with  tho  aSaira  of  those  other  kindred  societies  for  wliicli  he  was  eri)ected  to  fwpmid. 
They  were,  from  all  he  heard,  exceedingly  active,  and  he  had  no  dcmbt  that  they  were 
doing  good  work.  He  might  venture  to  add  that  he  thought  those  acKjieticB  were  all 
growing  a  little  dulL  He  did  not  say  this  in  way  of  reproach.  The  progress  mad* 
in  research  and  accuracy  in  methods  of  procedure  in  vol  veil  that  conacquence.  Bo 
long  as  there  were  large  regions  of  knowledge  which  the  methods  of  m^iniern  scicBo< 
h.id  not  penetrated,  bo  long  was  it  iwssible  to  go  to  meetiags  of  societies,  and  to  hold 
brilliant  discussioiiK.  Lookipg  at  means  which  now  existed,  for  the  diffusion  of 
iufurmation,  he  had  been  led  to  think  that  iu  many  case*  where  the  field  of  know- 
ledge had  been  cxtcDsively  explored  tire  utility  of  8ocieti<?8  was  constantly  diminiahiog, 
and  that  sixjner  or  lator  it  would  be  necessary  to  devise  other  means  of  effecting  the 
rcauUs  now  attained  by  meetings  of  societies.  But  there  was  one  thing  which 
would  not  be  reached  at  any  period  of  timo  by  any  other  orgauiaalion  than  that  of 
rrjiocieties,  aud  that  was  th<3  stimulus  which  was  given  by  their  meeting*  to  io- 
stigators;  and  tbe  rewaiti  they  found  for  their  toils  and  sjicrifices  in  such  a 
welcome  as  had  been  given  that,  night  to  his  long-tried  friend.  Sir  Joseph  Houker. 
There  was  a  classification  of  maukind  into  two  species,  which,  though  it  hud  little  to 
recLinmieDd  it,  perhajis,  to  the  scientific  mind,  was  on  moral  grounds  eminently 
acceptable.  It  was  that  there  are  two  sorts  of  men — those  with  whom  you  can  ga 
tiger  hiuitiDg  antl  those  with  whom  you  cannot.  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  vtm  a  inaa 
with  whom  he  had  had  many  a  tiger  hunt,  and  whom  tliey  all  trusted  iu  enterprisw 
of  tliat  kind. 

The  remaining  toasts  were  :  5.  "  Our  Foreign  Visitors,"  proixsed  by  Lord  North- 
brook,  and  resixjudeii  to  by  M.  C.  Boissevain,  of  Auiiiterdain  ;  6.  "Our  President,'' 
jiroposed  by  Jlajor-General  Sir  IL  C.  Eawlinson,  and  briefly  acknowledged  by  Lord 
Abenlare. 


riiOCEEDINGS  OF  FOEEIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geograpkical  Society  of  Paris*— May  IStb,  1883:  M.  Ast.  D'Abbadie 
(of  the  lustitute),  President  of  the  Central  Commission,  in  Ihe  Chair. — M.  Ferdinand 
do  I^BFcps,  President  of  tho  S^jciety,  read  a  letter,  which  he  had  received  quite 
recently  from  Pear-Admiral  C.  Fleuriot  de  Langie,  grandson  of  Chevalier  de  Langlc, 
the  comiianion  of  La  Perouse  in  his  celebrated  expedition.  De  Langie  was  in  com- 
mand of  L'Asfroiahe^  and  La  Pcrousc  of  La  Bouasolc.  On  December  lltk,  1767,  Dc 
I>aiigle,  who,  in  company  with  several  of  his  comi>aiiions  had  landed  in  a  cai:oe,  on 
tho  inland  of  Mauoua  or  Maouna,  was  massacred  by  tho  natives  there ;  the  iidand 
iias  been  named  the  "  Island  of  J^Iassacre  *'  from  this  tragic  event.  Thus  La  Fdroute 
was  deprived  of  his  experienced  leader,  who  was  in  reality  the  naval  chief  of  tbe 
exi>cdition  (although  from  modesty  he  had  refused  Qie  chief  command).  Evenlnally 
La  Perouse  [lerished,  as  every  one  knows.  It  was  only  in  1^>2G  that  the  English 
Captain  Dillon  discovered  in  tlie  Island  of  Vanikoro  the  remains  of  his  two  slnje, 
with  various  articles  belonging  to  them,  which  are  now  preserved  iu  the  Mu^ve  dfl 
la  Marine,  at  the  Louvre.  These  were  the  first  tidings  of  the  fate  of  this  expe>d;liou» 
which  perialied  by  shipwreck.  Although  the  remains  of  La  Perouse  ha\-e  not  yet 
been  recovered,  those  of  De  Langie  and  his  companioaa  have  just  been  fouud,  ati 
announced  by  Adminil  De  Laogle's  letter,  who  has  been  informed  of  the  disoovcry 
by  Pere  Vidal,  Suj^>erior  of  the  Apostolic  Mission  uf  the  Samoa  Islands  {Navigators' 
ArchiiieUgo)«  The  French  missionaries,  who  had  been  established  but  a  short  time 
in  this  group  of  islands,  after  making  researches,  have  been  successful  in  finding  the 
remains  of  these  unfortunate  navigators  at  Tuluila  (the  Maouna  of  L3  Perouse), 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


437 


[ilianks  to  the  information  received  from  the  natives^  \vIio  at  first  persisted  ia  keep- 
I  fng  l»ck  the  troth.    A  monument,  together  with  an  exjjiatory  chajjel,  is  going  to 
;  be  erected,  under  the  direction  of  these  mis&ionarios,  upon  the  exact  spot  of  the 
massacre,  and  if  the  Admiral  expresses  any  roe^ret,  it  is  that  none  of  the  four  graud- 
I'sons  of  the  celebrated  navigator,  who  are  all  sailors,  should   have  had   the  good 
fortune  to  make  this  discovery  in  the  course  of  their  ocean  voyages.     The  Admiral 
further  states  tlmt  he  chose,  as  the  medium  of  this  comnmnication  to  the  Society, 
I  H.  Ferdinand  de  Leaseps,  nephew  of  the  Lesseps  who  also  accompanied  La  Perouse, 
and  whom  the  latter  despatched  to  France  across  Siberia,  to  convey  tidings  of  the 
I  expedition  to  Louis  XVI.,  the  king  having  himself  drawn  up  its  iustnictious.  Some 
I  time  after,  when  Louis  XVL  was  informed  by  Lesaein  of  the  massacro  of  De  Langler 
[  at  Maouna,  "  Sir,"  answered  the  author  of  the  *  Voyage  de  Siberie,'  "  your  expedition 
;  is  lost !  "    Lesseps,  as  one  of  De  Longle's  sailors,  knew  his  chiefs  great  ability 
a^i  ft  navigator. — The  Geographical   Union  of  the  North  of  France,  which  baa 
its  scat  at  Douai,  the  town  chosen  last  year  at  the  liordeaux  Congress  for  the  hold- 
\  ing  of  the  next  Congress  of  the  French  Geographical  Societies,  announced  that  the 
'  1883  meeting  would  Iw  held  from  the  26th  to  the  31st  of  August,  immediately  after 
the  Congress  of  the  French  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  which  thia 
'  year  is  also  to  meet  in  the  town  of  Douai.     A  Geographical  Exhibition,  to  which 
the  Belgian,  Dutch,  and  Scandinavian  Societies  have  promised  their  assistance,  will 
be  opened  during  the  meeting  of  the  Congress.     Among  the  projected  excursions,  is 
[  a  visit  to  the  submarine  tunnel  between  France  and  England,  now  in  course  of 
'  cc^struction. — It  was  stated  on  behalf  of  the  Lyons  Geographical  Society,  which 
bas  proposed  to  found  a  prize  to  l»e  awjirde*!  by  the  united  French  Geographical 
Societies,  that  this  prize  will  certainly  not  consist  of  a  sum  of  money,  but  of  a  gold 
tnedal,  which  will  l»e  given  ever)'  three  years  for  tha  Wst  French  work  on  geo- 
graphy.— M.  f  Abb6  Lesserteur,  Director  of  Foreign  Missions  at  Paris,  transmitted 
a  »ket<:h,  which  just  completes  Pfeie  Pinabel's  work  (received  recently)  on  the 
uncivilised  country  cumprined  in  the  mountainous  part  of  the  province  of  Tagne^ 
boa  in  Toug-king.     This  supplement  tvill  allow  of  an  early  insertion  of  the  work  in 
the  quarterly  Bulletin. — Dr.  Harmand,  Consul  at  Bangkok,  sent  an  account  of  the 
yrorks  of  M.  Loftus,  hydrographical  engineer  to  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Siam  ;  he 
(M.  Loftus)  asks  to  be  made  a  Corresponding  Member  of  the  Society. — M.  D«sir6 
Chamay  fiooted  some  passages  from  a  chronicle  written  by  an  Indian  cacique,  who 
lived  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  of  Yuaituu  by  the  Spaniards :   the  chronicle  is 

Itran&lateil  from  the  Maya  language  and  |)iii)lii»hed  by  M.  Brinton  (Philadelphia, 
2882).  M.  Cliarnay  find««  in  it  confirmation  of  the  thesis  which  he  recently 
aupported  before  the  Society,  via.  that  tlie  monuments  of  Y\icjitan  and  Mexico,  to 
which  such  great  antiquity  is  assigned,  are  much  less  ancient  than  is  supposed. 
Some  of  these  monuments,  palaces,  and  temples  were  still  standing  and  inhabitc<i 
when  the  Spaniards  arrived. — Captain  Dolanneau,  attache  of  the  staff  of  the  Com- 
raaoder-in-chief  on  the  Upfier  Xiger,  wTote  from  fianmako  or  Bammako,  on  Cth  of 
March,  pving  detailed  information  of  this  locality,  which  ia  the  extreme  piint  of 
OAvigation  on  the  Upper  Niger,  the  river  being  complett-ly  bhjcked  there  by  the 
I  of  Soluba.  The  place,  which  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  ^-aat,  but  marshy, 
Soften  inundated  plain,  has  lost  much  of  its  importance  as  a  market  since  the 
time  of  Mungo  Park,  and  even  .since  the  journey  of  Mage,  the  French  traveller. 
The  market  has  been  transferred  to  Jamina  and  to  Seijo.  It  is  still,  however,  a 
fairly  important  route  for  caravans,  which  come  from  Ivaarta  bringing  from  there 
I  aalt  to  be  exchanged  for  slaves.  The  Banmako  country  is  composed  of  twcnty- 
I  lour  villages,  more  or  less  im|K)rtant,  inhabited  by  farmers  and  weavers  {  the  former 
i  are  by  no  means  an  ignorant  race,  having  so  many  dealings  with  the  passing 

2  F  2 


428 


Pf.OCE£Dh\GS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


caravans  just  mentioned.  Among  the  inhabitants  the  Bamboras  especially  *n 
described  as  being  industrious,  intelligent,  frugal,  and  brave ;  they  are,  more* 
over,  the  warlike  race,  and  furnish  the  chiefs.  With  regard  to  the  neighbouriog 
empire,  viz.  that  of  Abmadu  at  Scgo,\be  correspondent  says  its  influence  is  declin- 
ing every  day,  and  the  power  of  its  prince  Ibecoming  weaker  and  weaker.  Aoooniinj: 
to  Captain  Delauneau,  the  distance  from  Banmako  to  Tirnbuctti  would  ajipear 
to  be  leas  than  the  maps  represent,  it  being,  as  he  says,  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  days^  march. — M.  H.  Duvcyrier,  who  read  this  letter,  stated  that  be  bad  ju»t 
received  another,  also  from  Africa,  frc»ni  which  we  learn  (i.)  That  the  Touaregs  Aidjen 
havinj^  been  plimdered  by  the  Hoji^'ara,  are  organising  an  imj>ortaut  expedition 
against  the  latter,  (li.)  That  during  recent  months  rain  lias  fallen  twenty  times 
in  the  Sahara  (a  very  rare  occurrence). — The  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  comma, 
nicated  two  letter*  received  from  M,  Lc^loulx,  French  Consul  at  Zanzibor,  dated  the 
Ist  and  28th  of  March  respectively.  They  contain  news  of  M.  V.  Giraud,  qualified 
midshipman  of  the  French  Navy,  of  JI.  G.  Revoil,  who  is  charged  with  a  new  misfioa 
to  the  Somali  country  (southern  part)  and  also  of  Capt.  Bloyet,  as  follows : — M.  G. 
Eevoil  has,  since  iith  of  January,  been  staying  at  Zanzibar,  before  setting  out 
for  the  Somali  country.  He  has  been  busy  collecting  in  the  island  and  }t«  environs, 
the  greatest  jwssible  number  of  botanical,  zoological,  ethnographical,  and  ge<:»logical 
specimens,  destined  for  the  Natural  History  lluseum  at  Paris.  The  fauna  and 
flora  of  the  island  of  Zanzibar  are  still  only  imperfectly  known,  very  few  explorers, 
except  perhaps  M.  Grandidier,  having  exerted  themselves  in  this  direction.  The 
island  is  indeed,  for  the  majority  of  travellers,  merely  a  halting-place  before  entering 
on  the  continent.  Already  several  ciwes  of  s|iccimens  and  objects,  for  the  most  part 
new,  have  been  forwarded  to  France  under  the  direction  of  the  consul.  Captaiu 
Bloyet,  chief  of  the  French  station  of  Usagara,  had  just  sent  to  the  International 
African  Association  a  copy  of  his  journal,  a  collection  of  photographs,  and  an  account 
of  a  journey  made  by  him  to  Mamboia.  M.  V.  Giraud  had  communicated  satisfactory 
news,  dateti  from  Mgouna,  the  last  towu  of  Klmtu  (lat.  S,  7**  27',  long.  E.  34°  33'). 
Ho  had  only  had  a  very  few  desertions  from  his  caravan.  There  will  be  no  more  news 
of  his  movements  in  penetrating  the  interior,  before  the  end  of  June.  M.  Ledonhi 
speaks  also  of  the  English  geologist,  Thomson,  who  had  been  staying  at  Zanzibar, 
and  who  had  just  set  out  for  Mombas,  wliere  he  starts  on  his  exploration  of  the 
country  of  the  Masai,  and  of  Kilimanjaro.  Dr.  Fischer  was  proceeding  to  the  aamo 
regions ;  the  latter  had  great  difficulty  in  recruiting  his  i>orter8,  who  were  by  no 
means  desirous  of  traversing  the  region  inhabited  by  the  cannibal  tribe  of  the  Masai; 
moreover,  in  order  to  make  still  more  sure  of  the  men  composing  his  caravan,  he 
had  interested  them  commercially  in  his  enterprise — a  fresh  mode  of  recraituig 
there,  and  disapproved  of  by  Mr,  Thomson,  but  it  will  be  curious  to  see  the 
results  of  it.  The  news  of  the  death  of  Dr.  Kayser,  from  the  effects  of  a  prolonged 
bath,  is  confirmed  by  M.  Ledoulx,  who  nlso  states  that  although  the  rumour  of  the 
death  of  king  Mtesa  had  persistently  spread  along  the  coast^  yet  nothing  had  come 
to  hand  to  corroborate  it. — The  General  Secretary  then  read  a  letter  received  fi-ora  an 
Egj'ptologist,  M.  Arthur  Rohne,  who  complains  loudly,  and  with  good  reason,  of  the 
works  ordered  by  the  corporation  of  Cairo  for  the  so-ctdled  embellishment  of  the  city, 
but  which  do  not  show  sufficient  regard  for  the  precious  monuments  of  ancient 
architecture.  It  was  stated,  moreover,  that  the  English  are  equally  excited  at  this  pro- 
fanation, and  thearchteologists  of  the  British  Museum  have  protested,  while  the  press 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Channel  has  lifted  up  its  voice  to  put  a  stop  to  these  acts  ol 
vandalism. — In  conclusion,  a  communication  was  made  by  M.  A.  I'etiton,  engineer 
of  mines,  on  the  geology  of  Indo-China.  M.  Petiton  was  chief  engineer  of  mines  ui 
Cochin  China  from  1868-70  (see  quarterly  £i(Udin). 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


429 


I 


» 


is 

\        Co 


June ,  1st,  1SS3 :  M.  Ant.  d'Adbabie,  of  the  Institute,  in  the  Chair. 

— M.  Ferdinaiiii  de  Leaseps  announced  that  he  had  accepted  the  Honorary  Pre- 
sidentahip  of  the  Sixth  Annual  Congress  of  the  French  Geographical  Societies, 
which  is  to  be  held  tliis  year  at  Douai,  and  that  he  would  attend  the  Congress. 
— M,  A.  P.  d'Azevetio,  Portuguese  General  of  Engineers,  transmitted  a  copy 
of  his  geo-hydrographical  map  of  Porto-Santo,  and  also  his  map  of  the  eastern 
part  of  the  island  of  Madeira;  the  map  of  the  western  half  wll  be  published 
before  the  end  of  the  year. — M.  liich.  Cortambcrt  presented  two  largo  mapa  of 
Japan,  in  the  Japonese  language,  which  have  been  sent  to  the  Society  by  the  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  Tokio.  He  stated  at  the  same  time  that  M,  Oukawa,  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  latter  Society,  who  is  very  well  verae<l  in  the  French  language 
(be  has  given  lectures  in  French  at  Tokio),  had  just  been  appointed  chief  secretary  to 
the  Japanese  I^egation  at  Pari*.  "M.  Oukawa  requests  to  be  made  a  member  of  the 
Geographical  &x;iety  of  Paris,  and  purfioses  to  appear  shortly  before  the  Society  and 
to  give  some  inforraation  on  the  actual  state  of  the  Empire  of  the  Rising  Sun.  These 
different  maps  were  exhibited  in  the  hall,  as  well  a.s  a  very  fine  one  of  Madagascar  by 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Mullens,  presented  by  the  L<>U(lon  Missionary  Society.  In  connection 
vith  this  island,  M.  Homanet  du  Caillaud  sent  a  short  communication,  entitled 

French  Rights  in  Madagascar," — The  Society  received  through  the  Minister  for 
Foreign  AtTairs  a  report,  dateil  April  25th,  1S83,  by  M.  Ledoulx,  French  Consul  at 
Zanzibar,  on  tlie  explorers  and  missionaries  engaged  at  the  present  time  in  the  East 
of  Africa.  The  report  stat<;8  that  the  Uganda  miission  had  been  abandoned,  but  that, 
to  comiiensate  for  this,  the  missions  of  Talxira,  Usanza,  M'rogoro,  &c,,  wore  meeting 
trith  success.     No  news  had  arrlve<l  of  M.  Thomson  or  of  Dr.  Fischer.     Captain 

iloyet  had  completed  his  map  of  Usagara,  while  M.  G.  Revoil  was  preparing  to  start 
tfcr  Mogadoxo,  having  chosen  tliis  place  as  his  pcrtut  of  departure ;  from  there  it  is  his 
Sctention  to  proceed  to  Gualidi  and  thence  to  reach  Gananeh,  to  determine  this  place 
:umtely,  and  afterwards  to  study  the  course  cf  the  Jub.     He  will  then,  having 

traced  his  steps  to  the  west,  reach  the  great  tribe  of  the  Ugadinea,  on  tlie  banks  of 
the  Uebi,  Should  he  be  able  to  accomplish  this,  he  will  push  still  furtlier  west.  He 
purposes  to  return  by  the  Harrar  and  finish  at  Zeylah,  on  the  Gulf  of  Aden. — ^A 
letter  from  M.  Revoil,  dated  the  same  day  (April  25th)  from  Zanzibar,  confirms  the 
consul's  statements  as  to  his  movements. — Another  communication  was  received 
through  the  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  viz.  a  report,  dated  January  Ith,  by 
Dr.  Nets,  naval  physician,  on  his  journey  from  Kratleh  to  Stung-Treng  in  Laos. 
This  latter  place  is  a  large  village  of  some  2000  inhabitants,  which  extends 
along  the  Secong,  It  contains  200  hoiises,  many  of  which  are  doubled ; 
that  is,  connected  with  each  niher  by  means  of  a  platform  made  of  twisted 
bamboos.  The  traveller  stayed  there  about  a  week  in  order  to  be  able  to 
ive  an  account  of  the  resources  of  the  countrj',  its  system  of  exchange,  the 
Conditions  of  its  commerce,  and  also  to  visit  the  ruins  there,  which  have  been 
already  described  by  the  Doudart  de  la  Gree  expedition.  Tiie  place  is  inhabited  by 
the  Laotians  and  the  Chinese.     Unfortunatelj^,  among  the  articles  of  commerce, 

lUst  be  mentionwl  the  sale  of  slaves.  A  young  man  or  girl  (generally  of  the  Mois) 
worth  there  50  pia.stre3,  and  an  aged  man  20.  Bands  of  from  five  to  six 
Xaotians,  assisted  by  Chinese,  and  armed  with  guns,  go  ofif  in  this  way  to  hunt 
hnman  l«ings. — A  letter,  which  had  been  receivtd  through  the  French  Charg< 
d' Affaires  at  Montevideo,  was  read.  This  letter  is  written  by  a  Bolivian  Senator  and 
leoncems  the  place  where  the  remains  of  Dr.  Crevaux  will  be  found.  By  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Society,  the  letter  was  commimicated  previously  to  the  Parisian  press, 
and  it  will  be  found  reproduced  in  almost  all  the  daily  i^apers  of  the  week. — It  was 
announced  that,  on  the  3rd  of  June,  a  Geographical  Exhibition  would  be  oi«ned  at 


Brest,  organised  under  the  direction  of  the  Academical  Society  of  that  town,  tktou.:h 
which  the  Society  received  the  announcement  of  it.     The  proraot<ers  of  the  undcr- 
tiiking  have  thought  that  Brest,  from  ita  character  and  from  the  many  raluablo  and 
curioua  objects  which  have  nccumuiiUed  there  during  two  oenturica  of  navigatioa 
and  been  preserved  in  old  maritime  families,  would  offer  peculiar  advantages  for  aq 
exhibition  of  this  nature.    Each  day  during  the  holding  of  the  exhibition  there  will 
be  a  lecture  on  get^raphy. — General  Venukoff  »ent  n  communication  in  which  he 
announce^,  firtt  of  all,  the  recent  departure  for  China  of  M.  Polanine,  who  is  going 
to  explore  the  province  of  Kan-so,  as  well  as  the  adjacent  parts  of  Moagolia, 
lie  will  have  for  a  companion  M.  Scassy,  a  topographer  already  well  known  by 
his  works  on   the   mountains  of  Pamir.    When   first  announced,  the   expedltioo 
was  very  modest  in  wcale,  but  it  has  now  assumed  larger  proijortions,  since  a 
young  and  wealthy  proprietor  of  gold-mines  in  Siberia,  JI.  Soukatcheff,  hm  placed 
20,000  roubles  at  the  disposition  of  the  travellers.    The  letter  goes  on  to  aay  that 
over  the  whole  length  of  the  step])e  between  Chardjui  and  Uzbui,  which  has  jti^ 
been  explored,  no  trace  of  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Oxus  can   be  found ;    that 
which  three  years  ago  was  taken  to  be  it  by  a  Kussian  explorer,   is  only  a 
plain,  bounded  in  the  north   by  the  heights,  but  stretching  away  to  the  soutlig 
without  any  well-determined  limits.    M.  Venukoff  further  announces  that  the  new] 
frontier  between  Russia  and  Persia,  from  the  Caspian  Sea  to  the  banks  of 
H^ri-rud,  will  scion  be  defined,  the  topographical  work  having  been  comp 
between  North  Khorassan  and  South  Turcomania.     With  regard  to   ihe  Cbinot] 
Russian  frontier  in  Dzungaria,  ho  states  that  it  will  also  bo  determined  ihif  1 
summer.    A  considerable  fart  of  Upper  Irtish  having  been  annexed  to  Russia,  it  hif  1 
been  necessary  to  define  this  new  acquisition. — From  Washington  Professor  J  B»( 
Nourse  announces  the  early  publication  of  the  work»  commenced  by  him  under  th|] 
orders  of  the  American  Governnieiit,  and  then  mntinuod  by  some  one  else,  on 
schemes  for  cutting  ii  canal  through  the  continent  of  America.    The  same 
aipondent  states  that  ho  will  shortly  pnbliiiih  another  of  his  works  on  Ai 
expeditions  to  the  North  Pole. — In  concliuiion,  M.  Ch.  Habot  spoke  upon  the  i 
Daniah  expeditions  to  Greenland,  with  referenoe   to  Xordenskiold's  voyage, 
exhibited  some  photographic  views. 


NEW  BOOKa 
(By  E.  C.  Etb,  Ltbrarian  b.g.8.) 


EUROPE, 

Baddeleyt  M.  J.  B,— Tliorongh  Guide  Series.  The  Northern  Highlands  and 
Islands,  containing  a  full  description  of  Inverness,  Loch  Maree,  and  Gairloch,  ao<1 
of  the  wliole  Mainland  north  of  those  places  in  the  Counties  of  Inverness,  Koss, 
Cromarty,  Sutherland,  and  Caithness  ;  and  also  of  the  Orkney  and  Shetlai^d 
Islands,  and  the  district  of  Forres,  Elgin,  Nairn,  aud  Spey-side,  together  with  the 
approaches  from  Edinburgh,  Glasgow,  and  Aberdeen.  Loudon  (Dulnu) :  1883, 
12mo.,  pp.  xxviii.  &  168,  maj«.    Price  4s, 

The  ma^ts,  by  Bartholomew,  are  an  Index  and  a  General  Route  map,  and 
13  sectional  maps  in  coloured  contour  lines,  compiled  for  the  most  part  from  tbe 
recent  completion  of  the  one-inch  Ordnance  Survey.  A  general  description  aud 
a  table  of  heights  are  given. 


NEW  BOOKS, 


431 


adori  J.  B. — The  Orkneys  and  Shetland  ;  their  past  and  present  state.  London 
(.Sfanfonl),  Kirkwall  (Peace),  and  I^rwick  (Sandison):  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  rxix.  & 
703,  maps,  plans,  and  illustratious.     Price  1?.  1«. 

Historical  and  archajolofiical  matters  inevitably  occupy  a  considerable  portion 

rof  A  Toluine  like  the  present,  but  the  author  haa,  in  addition  to  his  own  topo- 

^  dphical  observatiouB,  inserted  chapters  by  Mr.  R  N.  Peach  and  Mr.  J.  Home 

ihe  Geology  of  tlie  islands,  by  Mr.  W.  J.  Fortescue  on  the  Flora  of  the 

frkneys,  and  Mr,  P.  White  on  the  Flora  of  Shetland.  Various  notes  on  natural 

Mstory  subjects  by  the  author  are  also  inserted,  and  he  has  jmid  much  attention 

to  the  fisheries  and  other  industries  of  the  inhabitants  in  past  and  ]ireKent  timcii. 

The  average  monthly  and  yavrly  temperature  and  raintall,  iKipulatiou,  Itxjttl 

naaie«i,  and  various  other  supplementary  matters  are  given  as  Appendices, 

The  maps  are  an  orograpbical  sketch  of  the  Orkneys  and  Shetland,  coloured 
olo^icAl  and  topogmphical  riia}>s  of  the  Orkneys  ami  Shetland  (separately), 
d  maps  of  Fair  Isle,  Lerwick,  Pam  SUitir,  and  Foula.    Some  plans  and  30 
well-executed  engravings  illustrate  the  work. 

ASIA. 

fijevalEkjt  H,— Tretye  Puteshestvie  v  Centralnoi  Asii.  Iz  Zaisana  chere/. 
Khami  v  Tibet  i  na  verkhovya  JoltoL  RakL  [Third  Journey  to  Central  Asia. 
From  Zaisan  via  Uami  to  Tibet  and  the  head-waters  of  the  Yellow  River.] 
St.  Petersburg  (V.  S.  Balashof,  printed  for  the  Imperial  Raasian  Geograpbical 
Sccietj) :  1883,  4to.,  pp.  i.-iv., ».,  ii.,  1-476  [no  index],  maps,  plates,  and  wood- 
cuts. 

Col.  Prjcvalsky's  start  early  in  February    1879,   on  his  third  Tibetan 
exjjedition,  of  which  the  details  are  ^ven  (entirely  in  Russian)  in  the  volume 
,bove  referreil  to,  was  clironicle<i  in  our  '  Proceedings '  for  that  year,  p.  208. 
'U  subR-^jueut  movemeats  are  noticed  at  p.  3K4  *A  that  volume,  and  pp.  312, 
iJO,  and  B97-T0O  of  the  following  one,  containing  the  outline  of  bis  journey 
irom  the  Post  Zaisan  to  Sa-chau  tShachau,  the  Sachiu  of  Marco  Polo)  on  the 
road  to  Lhassa,  which  he  was  not  allowed  to  reacli,  being  turned  back  at  thu 
village  of  Napchu,  180  miles  from  the  capital,  his  sub«e<]uent  return  march 
to  Sining  (the  centre  of  the  rhubarb  district)  and  his  visit  to   the  upper 
Hoang-ho. 

The  profusely  illustrated  and  portly  volume  now  published  is  divided  into 
18  chapters,  of  which  Chapter  1.  describes  the  equipment  of  the  expedition  at 
Zaisan  and  the  Journey  through  Dzungaria  by  the  valley  of  the  Urungu;  II., 
the  route  from  the  Altai  to  ihe  Thiaa  Shan;  III.,  from  Barkul  to  Hami;  IV., 
the  oasis  and  desert  of  Hami ;  V.,  the  oasis  of  Sa-chau  and  spurs  of  the  Nan^ 
Shan  range;  VI.  and  VII.,  the  latter  range  and  the  stay  miidc  in  it  by  the 
author  and  his  party;  VIII.,  Tsaidain  ;  IX.,  X.,  and  XI.,  Korthc-ra  Tibet  and 
the  route  taken  through  it;  XII.,  the  halt  near  Mount  I3umzi\ ;  XIII.,  the 
return  to  Tsaiilarn;  XIV.,  from  Tsaidam  to  Koko-nor  and  Sining;  XV.  and 
XVI.,  the  exploration  of  the  upper-waters  of  the  Hoang-ho;  XVII.,  a  visit  in 
.■Htjmmer  to  Koko-nor,  and  second  exploration  of  the  eastern  Nan-Shan 
(Kan-»n);  XYIH.,  the  route  followed  across  the  Ala-shau  and  Central  Gobi. 

The  large  and  well-executed  map  is  divided  into  two  sections,  and  shows 
the  author*s  second  journey  to  L()Vnor  in  187G  and  1877  as  well  as  the 
present.  The  plates  are  from  sketches  by  Robjrofsky,  one  of  the  expedition ; 
and  in  aildition  to  merely  personal  incidents,  represent  various  ethno- 
iffrapbical,  zoological,  and  botanical  subjects  (all  of  which  are  copiously 
niscuased  in  the  text).  Those  of  geographical  interest  are  as  follows: — 
View  of  Hami  from  the  north;  the  Desert  of  Hami;  sandstorm  in  the 
desert;  the  oasis  of  Sa-chau;  hillocks  of  drift-sand  from  the  south  of  the 
o;ifiis:  one  of  tho  glaciers  of  the  southern  slope  of  the  Huml)oldt  range; 
hillocks  of  friable  loss-like  clay  and  sand  formed  iu  the  desert  round  the  roots 
of  tamarisk  and  kharmik  (a  species  of  A'itraria\  causing  considerable  altera- 
tion in  the  elevation  of  the  surface  where  those  plants  are  thick ;  different 
forms  of  whirlwinds;  a  general  view  of  tlie  saline  plains  of  southern  Tsaidam; 


432  NEW  BOOKS. 

tbe  central  part  of  the  Eurkhau  BtidJka  range,  from  tlie  Baian-gol  river  in 
Tsaidam ;  thu  defile  of  tbe  Nomokhan'gol  river  iu  ike  last-mentioned  range ; 
the  Shuga  niountaina,  Northern  Til»et ;  an  "Obo  '*  or  caim-like  erection  in  iLo 
piAs  across  Tang-la  ;  winter  view  of  Koko-nor  frc»m  the  south  ;  the  Uoang-ho 
near  Balekun-Ilomi ;  cliffs  of  tbe  Hoang-ho  near  the  mouth  of  the  ChurTOjn; 
the  oiisis  of  Gui-d\ii ;  Koko-uor  from  the  north  shore ;  the  temple  of  Chobsetig ; 
pass  of  the  river  Talung-gol  iu  the  mountains  near  the  temple  of  Chertintoo, 
and  the  temple  itself;  the  Central  Gobi ;  and  tbe  sands  of  Tingeri.  There  is  abo 
a  view  of  the  town  of  Urga  from  a  photograpli, 

AFRICA. 

ElTOyre,  Denis  de. — Obock,  Mascate,  Bouchire,  Basaorah.    Paris  (Plon);  1833, 

12mo.,  pp.  202,  map,  and  illufltrationa  [no  iodex],     {Dulau :  price  AtJ) 

The  author  (who  has  already  published  a  work  on  his  explorations  of  the 
Abyssinian  coast)  started  in  August  11:^80,  for  a  renewed  visit  Vj  the  place  firrt 
meutionetl  in  the  above  title,  from  which  he  proceeded  to  well  knot\vn  points  ia 
the  Persian  Gulf, 

Obock  or  Obokb  is  on  the  East  African  coast,  nearly  on  tbe  12th  northern 
pamllel,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Tajnra,  in  the  Danakil  country,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Strnit  of  Bab-el-Mao dtsb.  It  is  about  120  miles  west  of  Adeo, 
and  45  miles  north  of  Zeila,  and  represents  a  territory  of  about  25  sqviare  leagDcs 
acquired  by  the  French  Govermneut  ia  March  1862  by  purchase  of  the  native 
chiefs  who  owned  the  L\nd,  with  tbe  object  of  establishing  a  coaling  station  for 
their  ve?selaj  which  are  still  compelled  (as  M.  de  Kivoyre  says)  to  demand  of 
the  English  at  Aden  or  Galle  a  "  precarious  and  jealous  hospitality."  l^othiog, 
in  fact,  has  been  accomplished  towards  the  foundation  of  a  dei»6t  so  necessary 
for  French  interests  in  view  of  their  colonial  extensions  in  Toug-king  ;  "in 
other  hands,*"  the  author  says,  "  there  would  have  been  time  for  the  erection 
and  extension  of  a  tuwii,"  but  from  liia  account  the  place  ia  only  used  by  neigh- 
bouring tribes  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  their  flocks,  and  by  Arab  boatmen. 
M.  de  Rivoyre  deBcribea  his  own  explorations  of  this  uninteresting  territory, 
which  he  soon  left,  not  however  before  receiving  a  visit  from  the  fir^t  French 
colonist,  a  speculator  who  had  been  induced  to  come  to  Obock  by  the  repre- 
sentations of  a  French  commercial  oom[Mipy,  whose  prospectus  oflered  gold- 
mines there,  among  other  attractions. 

The  map  shows  the  auth<Ltr*s  route,  and  the  illustrations  represent  the 
environs  i>f  Zeila,  ibo  shore  of  Obock,  Mascat,  Basrah,  Filieh,  Muhamrah,  the 
ruins  of  the  Mosque  of  Ali,  Zuber,  &c. 

Kobert,  Fritz. — Afrika  als  Handelsgebiet,  West-,  Slid-,  und  Ost-Afrika,  "Wicn 
(Carl  Genjid's  Sohn) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  350  [no  index]. 

The  author  quotes  the  beat  uflicial  and  other  sources  of  information  bearing 
on  the  subject  of  African  trade,  and  divides  his  subject  into  a  general  part  (ia 
which  he  sketches  the  connection  with  Wejst,  South,  and  East  Africa,  of  the 
five  Euvoi>ean  powers  possessing  colonies  there,  and  of  the  seven  others  which, 
with  no  colonies  of  their  own,  have  commercial  relations  with  the  continent), 
and  a  special  part  in  which  twenty-nine  diHerent  localities  are  discussed  at 
regards  their  trade  capabilities.  Trade  customs  and  the  varying  unit  of 
exchange  are  alst>  discussed,  with  the  means  of  communication  with  Europe  and 
iuternal  routes,  &c.  The  Portugui^e,  Freuch,  and  English  Colonies,  the  Trana* 
vaal,  the  Hamburg  trade,  &c.,  are  Be[jarately  referred  to  statistically  in  an 
appendix,  which  also  gives  costs  of  carriage  of  gooda  by  diflerent  routes, 

AMEBIC  A. 

Stanford's  Compendiimi  of  Geography  and  Travel,  l»ased  on  Hellwalds 
'  Die  Erde  und  ibre  Volker,'  Xuith  America,  wlitcii  and  enlarged  by  Professor 
F.  V.  Hayden,  late  Chief  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  and  Professor 
A.  E.  C.  Selwyn,  F.ii.d.,  Director  of  the  Geobgicul  Survey  of  Canada.     London 


NEW  BOOKS, 


483 


(E.   Stanford):    18S3,  post  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  652,  maps  and    iUuatratioos. 
Price  2l«. 

The  official  positions  of  the  editors  of  the  present  volume  sufficiently 
indicAte  an  attention  to  physical  points  in  treating  their  subject,  which  is 
divide*!  into  two  parts,  the  States  occupying  285  pages,  and  the  DomiaioQ 
351. 

The  maps  are : — Physical  of  the  whole  area ;  geological,  population,  rainfall, 
and  greatest  heat  and  cold  of  the  States  as  a  whole,  and  political  of  the 
Eastern  and  Western  States,  with  a  separate  map  of  the  Yellowstone  National 
Park;  the  Dominion,  Manitoba,  British  Columbia,  and  Saskatchewan,  Rail- 
way map,  Eoute  map,  Canada,  and  Newfoundland.  The  ethnological  appendix 
is  not  rej^eated. 

AU8TRALASL\, 
*OWell,  Wilfred. — Wanderings  in  a  Wild  Country  ;  or,  Tliree  Years  amongst  the 
Cannibals  of  New  Britain.     LDudon  (Sampson  Low  &  Co.) :  1883,  Svo.,  pp.  vii. 
and  283  [no  index],  map  and  illnstiations.     Price  18s. 

Mr.  Powell's  explorations  in  New  BriUin  and  the  neighbouring  islands 
were  first  made  public  in  August  1880,  at  the  Swansea  meeting  of  the  British 
I  Association,  recorded  in  our  'Proceedings'  for  that  year,  p.  645.  In  the 
following  volume,  he  contributed  a  paper  on  the  same  subject  (pp.  84-97), 
illustrated  by  a  sketch  suney  map  of  the  north-east  portion  of  New  Britain, 
-which  is  reproduced  in  the  present  book ;  and  on  May  7tb  last  be  read  a  paper 
before  this  Society  in  which  some  more  of  his  experiences  (especially  in  connec- 
tion with  the  New  Guinea  coast)  were  narrated. 

The  volume  now  publislicd  contains  further  details,  interesting  to  anthropo- 
iogists  as  well  as  geographers.  Starling  in  June  1877  from  Sydney,  the  author 
sfailed  inside  the  great  north-east  Australian  Barrier  reef,  visiting  Lizard  island, 
and  striking  N.E.  by  Cook's  jvassage  to  the  Brumer  islands,  a  jiart  of  the 
DtimerouB  groups  at  the  soutli -eastern  apex  of  New  Guinea^ — soon  find- 
ing ample  opportunity  lor  correcting  the  Admiralty  Charts  in  imiwrtant 
respects.  Mr.  Powell,  however,  observes  that  shoals  and  reefs  rise  so 
rapidly  here  that  it  by  no  means  fallows  there  was  any  error  in  the 
original  obaer^'ationa  on  which  these  charts  were  laid  down.  He  is  also 
at  the  same  time  convinced  that  there  are  hundreds  if  not  thousands 
of  islands  in  the  Pacific  never  seen  by  white  men  save  in  the  distance,  and 
many,  he  has  little  doubt,  never  seen  at  all.  In  one  place,  a  dubiously 
reported  "rock"  was  found,  60  miles  out  of  position,  and  represented  by 
twenty-one  inhabited  islands. 

After  calling  at  Teste,  Basilisk,  and  Hayter  Islands,  among  others,  Mr. 
Powell  sailed  tu  the  east  of  the  D'Entrecasteaux  group,  striking  north  past 
Trobriand  Island  ttt  the  channel  between  New  Britain  and  New  Ireland,  and 
landing  on  Matnpi,  thence  visiting  Ulu,  Utuan,  and  the  main  island  of  the 
Duke  of  York  group.  Explorations  were  then  made  among  the  bays  and 
islands  of  the  north-eastern  ix»rtion  v(  Nmv  Britain,  the  voleanu-  phenomena  of 
which  appear  very  extraordinary  ;  but  the  hostility  of  the  natives  could  not  be 
overcome,  and  in  the  end  the  author  was  glad  to  return  with  his  life,  having 
lost  nearly  all  his  collection!*.  He  had,  however,  luckily  sent  ofl"  a  large  collec- 
tion of  ethnolc^ical  objects  to  Sydney  before  leaving  the  islands,  and  his 
observations,  log  sketches,  and  field  books  have  enabled  him  to  put  together  a 
volume  of  great  interest. 

Some  notes  on  New  Ireland,  the  numeral  system  of  New  Britain  (a  primitive 
form  shown  to  have  some  analogy  with  the  Roman  figures),  and  a  slight 
vocabulary  are  given  with  other  matter  in  the  npjiendix. 

GENEBAL. 
lUemo,  Vincenzo.— I  Yiaggi  di  Nicolo  de'  Conti  riscontrati  ed  illustrati  con 
'roemio  storico,   Dwumenti  original!   e  Carte  geografiche.     Milauo  (Brigola): 
[1883],  post  8vo.,  pp.  336,  majis.    Price  35. 

After  a  discussion  of  the  available  evidence.  Signer  Bellemo  agrees  with 
Bullous  conclii?ion  that  the  illustrious  traveller  was  not  a  Venetian,  but  bora  in 


484  NEW  MAPS. 

Chioggia,  and  pointa  out  that  the  error  has  occurrwi  through  the  term  **  Vcneto ' 
used  by  Pogpio  and  PtccolomiDi,  and  which  applies  to  the  whole  territory 
betweeu  the  Isonzo  and  the  Mincio  from  E.  to  \V.,  and  the  Alps  and  the  To 
from  N.  to  S.,  being  wrongly  interpreted  in  the  restricted  bease  of  **  Veneriaao,*' 
— the  name  "  Venezia  "  ia  fact  not  coming  into  use  until  after  the  13th  ooDtuiy, 
repUcing  the  old  "  Rivoalto." 

Poggio's  introduction  is  reproduced,  and  his  text  is  illustrated  by  a  few  short 
notes,  and  increased  by  Rome  intercalutioas  and  a  concluding  chapter,  the  cldef 
value  being  in  pp,  273-330,  whicli  contain  various  quotations  aad  elucidatory 
references. 

A  map  shows  the  whole  route  of  Nicolo  de'Conti  from  Venice  to  Alexandria, 
Aleppo,  Angora,  Samarcaiid,  Damascus,  Bagiliui,  down  the  Persian  Gulf,  Uin- 
dostan,  Sumatra,  Burma,  China,  Borneo,  Java,  and  Banda,  reluming  by  Borneo, 
Cochin  China,  Ceylon,  the  Pied  J3ea,  and  Spain;  and  another  map  aa  a  Urgar 
scale  givc.s  the  Ilindostan  routes. 

Bettencourt,  E.  A.  de. — DescDbrimentos,  Guerras,  e  Conquistas  do*  Fortaguewi 
em  ttjrras  do  Ultramar  noa  seculoa  xv.  e  xvi.  LLjboa  (Matta) :  1881-1882,  pp. 
xvi.  and  420,  maps.  (Quarikh  :  price  1/.  8s.) 

Lithographed  from  the  author's  autographic  imitation  of  ancieot  MS.,  with 
ornamental  mar^iDft  to  each  page,  tbia  curious  volume  is  intended  to  popuUrin 
the  history  of  the  Discoveries,  Wars,  and  Conquests  of  the  Portuguew  bcyood 
the  seas  in  the  16th  and  16th  centuries,  commencing  vrith  the  conquest  o( 
Ceuta  in  1415  and  ending  with  the  Indian  Viceroyalty  of  Francisco  Da  Ganu 
in  1597,  The  majts  consist  of  a  planisphere  showing  the  chief  discoveries  of 
the  Portuguese  in  the  whole  world  during  the  jjoriod  named  (including 
Australia,  claimed  to  be  known  to  that  nation  before  1625),  a  facsimile  of  one 
of  the  maps  of  the  Atlas  of  Lazaro  Luiz  showing  the  Labrador  cofixt,  and  a 
coroparison  of  part  of  the  Catalan  chart  of  1375  with  the  known  position,  &Cf 
of  the  Azores,  discovered  subsequently  to  the  date  of  that  chart. 


KEW  MAPS, 

(By  J,  Coles,  Map  Curator  r.q,8.) 

EUROPE, 

Attikat   Karten   von .      Auf  Vemnhuasung  des  Kaiserlich  Deutscben  ArchA- 

ologischen  Instituts  und  mit  Untersliitzimg  des  KOniglich  Preussischen  Mini»> 
teriums  der  GeistlJclien,  Unlerrichts-  und  Medicinal-Angelegenheiten.  Aufge* 
nommen  dtirch  Ofbziero  und  Bcamto  des  k.  Preussischen  Grossen  Generalstabc*^ 
nait  crliiuteradem  Text  herausgegeben  von  E.  Curtius  und  J.  A.  Kauport 
Heft  IT.     Vier  Blatter,  Massstab  1  :  25,000  or  2  •  9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile  ;~ 

Bl,  III.    Athen — Pciraieus.    Aufgenommeu  und  gezeichnet  von  G.  t. 

Alteu  und  J,  A.  Kaupert. 
BI,  IV.    Athen— Ilymettos.    Aufgenommeu  und  gesseichnet  von  Steflfea 

imd  J,  A.  Kaupert. 
BL  V.     Kephisia.     Aufgenommeu  und  gozeiohnet  von  G.  v.  Alien. 
Bl.  "VI.     Pyrgos.     Aufgenommen  und  gezeichnet  von  Siemens. 
Berlin  :  Dietrich  Reimer,  1883.    (Dulav.) 

These  are  very  \>eauti  fully  executed  maps ;  the  hill-work,  which  is  showaf^ 
combination  of  hatching  and  contour  lines,  is  coloured  in  sepia ;  the  ancient  uacaii 
and  positions  are  marked  in  red,  the  heights  of  the  mountains,  and  the  dep^ 
of  the  sea,  as  far  aa  the  ten-fathom  line,  are  given  in  metres,  the  contours  of 
the  hills  being  for  differences  of  20  metres  in  level,  and  the  lines  of  soundings 
commence  at  2  metres,  and  are  given  for  every  change  of  2  metres  up  to  2W. 
These  four  sheets  are  accomiMinied  by  explanatory  letterpress. 


NEW  MAPS. 


m 


France. — Oirtc  «le  France,  dressde  par  le  Service  Vicinal  par  ordre  de  M.  lo  Ministre 

I     de  riat^'ricur.     Scale  1 :  100,000  or  1  *  3  geograiiiiical  mUes  to  an  iuch.    Paris, 

r      Hachetle  et  Cie.»   1682-3.    Sljeets :— XL— 14,  Domfront;  XI.— 15,  Mayenne  ; 

XL— 16,   Evron;    XL— 17,  Sabl^;    XL— 19,  Angers;    XIL— 14,    Argentan ; 

XU.— 22,  Poitiers  (Quest) ;  XIIL— 11,  Pont-Audemer  ;  XIIL— 21,Ch&tellemult ; 

XIIL— 22,   Poitiers  (Est);   XIV.— 14,   Vemeoil  ;   XIV.— 15,  lUiers;    XIT.— 

16,   CMteaiidun  ;   XV.— 15,  Chartresi    XX— 14,  Arcis-sur- Aube ;   XXI.— 12, 

Siiippes;  XXL— 14,  Vitrj^-le-Fran^ois  ;  XXIL— 12,  Ste.  Munehould ;  XXIL— 

13  9  Bai-le-Dnc;  XXIL— 14,  Saint-Dizier ;  XXUL— 12,  Verdun;  XXIU.— 15, 

Neufchateau;  XXI 11. — 17,  Laugrea  (Kst).     Price  Id.  each  sheet.     (Dulau,) 

Hamburg   Altona,   Plan  von——,  mit  Ansictton  der  hervorragendeu  Baulicli- 

keiten.    GezeicUiiet  von  Otto  Maascb,  H.«imburg  n.  Leipzig,  1882,    VerUig  von 

Leopold  Vooa.    Price  Is.  Qd,     (Dulan.) 

^  Harzgebirge,    Karte  vom ,  nach  oine    Rfliof  von   L.    DeicUroann.     Scale 

1 :  200,00<.»  or  2*7  geographical  miles  t>  an  inch.  L.  Deichmaiin,  KasseL  Price 
U     (Dulaa.) 

[  IGttel-Italien,  Hypsometrische  Klarte   von .   Entworfen  nnd  gezcichnet.  im 

Landeiil-cischreibuDgs-Burcau  der  k.  k.  Generalstabcs.  Scale  1:750,000  or 
10*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Wien.     Price  4s.     (Dulau,) 

\  Oesterreichsch-TTiigarischeii  Monarchie,  Specialkarte  der .  Scale  l :  75,000 

or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  K.  k.  militiir-geografiisches  Institut, 
Wien,  1883.  Sheets: — Zone  G,  Col.  IX.  Podersam  und  Kakonitz.  Zone  6, 
Col.  IX.  Kralowitz  «ind  Bras.  Zone  7,  Col,  IX.  Pilsen  und  Blowitz.  Zone  7, 
Col.  X.  Pribram  und  Mirowitz.  Zone  8,  Col.  IX.  Nepomuk  und  IIoni''diowitz. 
Zone  8,  Col.  X.  Pisck  und  Blatna.  Zone  8,  Col.  XL  Tabor.  Zone  ^,  CoL  X. 
Protiwin  und  Pracliatitz.  Zone  IG,  Col.  XVL  Sirviir,  Kis-Cell  und  Boled. 
Zone  21,  Coh  XIV.  Krapina  utid  Zlatar.  Zone  21,  Col.  XV.  Kopreinitz  nnd 
Kt«uz.  Zone  22,  Col.  XVL  Ikdoviir  imd  Grdjev.-^c  Veliki.  Zone  22,  Col.  XVU. 
Bares  und  Viroviiica.  Zone  23,  Col.  XIIL  Jaska.  Zone  23,  Col.  XVL  Darwar. 
Zone  24,  Col.  XL  Fiume  und  Del  nice.  Zone  24,  Col.  XVL  Pakrac  und  Jaacnovac 
an  der  Save.  Zone  24,  Col.  XIX.  Djakovo  und  Vlnkovci.  Zone  25,  Ct»l.  X. 
Pisino  und  Fianona-  Zone  25,  Col.  XIL  Brinje,  Ledenica  und  OStaria.  Zone  26, 
Col.  X.  I'ola  find  Lulienizze.  Zone  27,  Col,  X.  Unie  und  Sanijego.  Price  Is.  id, 
each  sheet.     (Dulati,) 

Schweiz,    Neue  Karte  der ,  von  R.   Lenzinger.     Scab   1:400,000   or  5*5 

peo^^raphical  miles  to  an  inch.  Ausgabe  1883.  Bern,  Dalp,  Price  4». 
(DuUiu.) 
Wichinanil,  E.  H. — Map  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  designed  by  E.  IL 
Wichtiinijij.  Scale  1 :  Ul 5,000  or  12 "5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Printed 
by  Miiblmeister,  Johlcr  &  Erauns,  Hamburg.  Price  21«.  {Wiiliama  & 
JiforffttU.) 

This  map  is  coloured  orop;mphically,  and  is  accompanied  by  two  indices,  one 
geographically  and  another  alphal>etically  arranged.  This  latter  is  intended  to 
L  assist  the  student  in  finding  any  place  on  the  map,  whem  used  in  combination 
vith  a  measuring  tape,  on  which  are  marked  divisions  bearing  a  proportion  to 
the  projection  of  the  map,  and  which  ia  fastened  to  the  N.E.  comer.  Tho 
manner  in  which  this  is  used  is  as  follows :  on  reference  to  the  index  for  the 
place  required,  a  certain  number  of  degrees  and  minutes  will  be  found  to  stand 
opposite  to  it.  and  also  an  index  number;  the  tape  has  to  be  stretched  to  cross 
the  man  until  its  upper  edge  rests  on  ihe  degree  and  minute  found  in  the  index 
and  then  opposite  to  the  index  number  on  the  tape  will  be  found  the  place 
In  miioy  ca«ei*,  however,  as  the  name  of  the  town  or  village  occupies  a 


436 


NEW  SIAPS. 


IcBgth  of  10  miles,  according  to  tlie  scale  of  the  map,  and  as  the  names  in  some 
instaDoes  are  midway  between  tlie  town-raarks,  ouly  a  very  rougU  Idea  of  the 
Bitutttioa  of  some  of  the  towns  can  be  formed ;  this,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  bo 
rectified  in  any  future  editiou  which  may  be  published. 

ORDNANCE  SURVEY  MAPS. 

PublicatioDH  issued  from  1st  to  SOtli  April,  1883. 
6-iack — County  Maps : — 

England  and  Wales:  Berks,  sheet  23  with  Buckingham  sheet  51, 
Oxford,  sheet  54.  Price  '2s,  Qd.  Glamorgan,  sheets  1,  4.  Price  2 
Cornwall,  Quarter  Sheet,  73  N.  W.  Price  Is.  Derby,  Quarter  Sheet*,  9  N.E., 
»  N.W.  (these  complete  sheet  J));  11  K.W.,  11  N.E.,  11  S.E.  (these  com- 
plete sheet  11);  15  N.W.;  15  N.E.;  17  S,E.;  19  N.W. ;  22  K.W. ;  22 
^\E. ;  24  N.E. ;  24  S.E. ;  25  S.E.  Price  1».  each.  Shropshire,  Quarter 
Sheets,  39  N.E. ;  48  S.E. ;  48  S.W. ;  49  S.E.  ;  51  K.E.  (1st  edition,  without 
contours).    Price  Is.  each. 

Ireland  :  Loogford  (reviBtnl)  Sheet  24.     Price  2s. 

26-illcll— Parish  Maps : — 

ExQLAKD :  Derby :  Barrow  u|Hm  Trent,  10  sheets.  Leicester :  Isley  Walton, 
4 ;  Laugley  Priory,  3.  Honmouth ;  Llangattock-Linc^oed,  C,  and  Ar» 
Book ;  Llaugstone^  5  ;  Magor,  10 ;  Skenfr«th,  12.  Norfolk :  Bambam 
Broom,  7;  East  Tuddenham,  6  ;  Little  EUiugham,  6;  Morley  St.  Botolpli, 
7  J  Morley  St.  Peter,  5.  Shropshire  :  Badger,  6  ;  Church  Fulverbatch,  9. 
Wilts :  Ashley,  4,  and  Ar.  Bk. 
Town  Plans— 

Ekuland  :  Dudley,  Scale  1 :  500.    18  Sheets. 

Ibklasd  :  Kinbale,  6-feet  scale.    8  alieets. 

ASIA. 

Arabia  Petraia,  Keconnaissance  of ,  made  by  the  Palmer  Search  Expedi- 
tion under  the  direction  of  Colonel  0.  Warren,  c.w.o.  Scale  1:633,60)  or  8"6 
geographical  miles  tu  au  inch.  Compiled  for  the  Lords  Commisaionera  of  ibe 
Admiralty.     1883. 

Asien.— PhyHikalischeii    WandkartoKL ,  von  H.  Kiepert.     Scale  1:4,000,000 

or  55*5  geographical  miles  to  an  mch,  9  sheets.  3rd  edition.  Berlin,  D.  Be  imer. 
Price  12».    (Duhu.y 

Cochinclline  et  Tonkin.— Carte  de  riado-Chine.  Scale  1:5,000,000  or  C6'6 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Paris.     Price  Gd,     (Dalau.) 

Palaestina,   Neue  Wandkarte  vou ,  von  H.   Kiepert.      Scale  1 :  800,000  or 

10*9  geoc^raphical  miles  to  an  inch.     Berlin,  1>.  Reimer.     Price  Is.     (^Dulati,) 

Wady  Sudr,  Beconuaissance  Sketch  of  a  portion  of ,  Arabia  Potrwa,  made 

imder  the  directiou  of  Colonel  G.  Warren,  c.m.o.,  b.e.,  for  the  Lords  Com- 
missiuners  of  the  Admhalty.  Scale  1 :  f>3,3ti0  or  0'86  geographical  miles  to 
au  inch. 

AFRICA. 

Afirique,  La  Carte  d" .     Scale  1 : 2,000,000  or  27  geographical  miles  to  to 

inch.  Sheels:— No.  16,  St.  Louis.  No.  17,  Timbouctou.  No.  23,  Free  Town. 
No.  24,  St'gou  Sikoro.  No.  31,  Monrovia.  No.  32,  Koumassi.  l»«S[ot  du  h 
Guerre,  Paris,  18S2-3. 

This  is  the  second  issue  of  6  sheets  of  a  map  of  Africa  which  is  at  present 
being  comi>iled  by  Capitaine  R.  de  Lannoy  de  Bissy,  and  publishetl  by  the 
BepCt  de  la  Guerre. 


NEW  MAPS. 


437 


I 


tliei 
^*        itidi 


The  sheets  previously  published  are  thwe  of  South  Africa,  and  embrace  all 
that  portion  south  of  the  twentieth  parallel  of  S.  latitude.  The  present  issue 
has  reference  to  the  Western  portion  o^f  the  continent,  and  includes  the  country 
between  Caf«  Blanco  and  Elmina  extending  into  the  interior  to  Timbuctu 
and  beyond  Sego  to  the  fifth  meridian  of  weat  longitude. 

This  iraporlaut  map  was  commenced  in  1875  by  Capitaine  R.  de  Lannoy, 
and  it^  publication  was  undertaken  by  the  French  War  Department  in  1881  ; 
when  complete,  it  will  be  composed  of  60  sheets,  in  addition  to  which, 
there  will  be  smaU  maf)8  of  the  Islands  of  Ascension  and  St.  Helena,  and 
special  detailed  plans  of  the  principal  towns,  pjrts,  and  remarkable  places. 
It  is  drawn  on  an  orthographic  projection,  the  |)arallels  of  latitude  being  repre- 
ted  by  right  lines  and  the  meridians  by  elliptical  arcs.  Sheet  IG  exhibits 
I  coast  from  Cape  BUmco  to  Cape  Verde,  and  iocludes  the  colony  of  Sene^xal, 
,nd  the  course  of  the  river  of  tkit  name  from  St.  Louis  to  Medini' ;  the  tribal 
bcmndaries  are  laid  down  as  well  as  the  routes  traversetl  by  many  explorers  ; 
indeed,  this  remark  will  ei|ually  apply  to  the  map  as  a  whole.  This  sheet 
oonUuns  more  detail  than  any  map  of  tiie  same  scale  that  has  hitherto  been 
publishetl,  and  has  also  an  inset  map  on  an  enlarged  scale  of  the  Environs  of 
St.  Louis. 

ITie  northern  portion  of  sheet  17  is  occupied  by  the  desert  of  El  Juf  and 
the  western  portion  of  the  country  of  the  Tuaregs ;  on  the  southern  portion  is 
shown  El  II<xlh,  the  north  of  Kaarta,  Bambara,  Masina,  and  the  country 
surrounding  Timbuctu  :  numerous  remarks  as  to  the  nature  of  the  country, 
and  the  sites  of  towns,  &c.,  are  inserted,  espc?cially  in  the  country  surrounding 
Timbuctu,  and  throughout  the  whole  of  Masina.  Sheet  23  gives  the  coast-line 
from  a  little  south  of  Ca|>e  Verde,  to  Sherbar,  south  of  Shorhoro  Island;  its 
eastern  limit  extends  to  Medina,  Timbo,  and  the  western  portion  of  the  Republic 
of  Liberia;  it  includes  the  English  colonies  of  the  Gambia  and  Sierra  Leone, 
and  the  French  establishments  of  Cazamanza,  Bokd  and  Malleoory,  the  Portu- 
guese possessions  in  Guinea,  and  numerous  tribal  boundaries.  The  approximate 
areas  of  the  territories  which  have  been  acquired  by  treaty  by  the  llepublic  of 
Liberia,  are  shown  by  dotted  lines,  together  with  the  date  when  each  acquisition 
was  made.  Etdargcd  plans  ol  towns  and  places  of  special  interest  are  given 
on  inset  maps.  Sheet  2i  contains  the  basina  of  the  Upper  Niger  and  Upper 
Senegal  rivers,  and  extends  southward  as  far  as  the  northern  borders  of  Ashanti ; 
in  the  south-west  comer  of  this  sheet  is  shown  the  country  visited  by  Benjamin 
Anderson  in  18t»8,  a  considerable  jMjrtion  of  which,  in  the  vicinity  of  Munardu, 
is  laid  down  as  having  been  ceded  by  the  Western  Mandingoes  to  the  Republic 
of  LilK'ria  in  18<>8-69;  and  farther  south  the  country  of  the  Barline,  according 
to  this  map,  would  appear  to  have  also  been  ceded  to  the  Ilepublic  of  Liberia 
in  1874.  Though  there  may  doubtless  be  very  good  authority  for  extending 
the  boundaries  ot  Liberia  in  this  direction,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fact,  that,  in  the 
recent  publications  of  Kiejwrt,  Justus  Perthes,  and  others,  this  enlarf^ement  of 
the  Bepublic  has  not  been  laid  down.  The  |)Ositions  of  the  advanced  French 
military  stations  BafnlabiS  and  Kita  are  given,  the  latter  being  not  quite 
00  gcogr.iphical  miles  from  Bammako  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the 
Niger.  Sheet  31  contains  that  portion  of  the  territory  of  the  Republic  of 
Liberia  between  Gralliuas  and  Point  Baasa,  extending  into  the  interior  as  far  as 
Bamboo  town ;  this  oompriaes  the  whole  of  the  country  of  Montserrado.  On 
an  inset  map  is  given  the  embouchure  of  the  St.  Paul  River,  which  is  taken 
from  the  United  States  Chart,  and  is  on  an  enlarged  scale.  Sheet  32  contains 
tl.o  Counties  of  Bassa,  Sinoa  and  Maryland,  in  the  liepuhlic  of  Liberia,  and 
portions  of  the  English  colonies  on  the  Guld  Coast,  and  of  the  Kingdom  of 
Asljauti.  Each  issue  of  six  sheets  is  accomjmnied  hy  a  jaimphlet  in  which  is 
given  all  the  authorities  used  in  the  compilation,  and' some  Roneral  notes  as  to 
the  people  and  toptography  of  the  country.  The  sheets  at  present  ijublished  aro 
photozincographs,  and  drawn  in  outline  only  ;  but  it  is  intended  that  the 
chroraulithograph  edition  shall  be  an  orographic  map. 

The  central  meridian  of  the  projectiun  corresponds  with  the  tenth  degree  of 
longitude  ea*t  of  Paris ;  this  has  been  done  in  order  to  give  a  greater  de<^'ee  of 
accuracy  to  that  part  of  Africa  north  of  the  Equator,  as  this  meridian  (which 


438  *  NEW  MAPS, 

corresponds  to  129  20*  east  of  Greenwicli)  is  mid-wny  between  Cape  Verde  on 
the  west  and  Tujnrra  on  the  east,  nnd  tlins  divides  Equatorial  Africa  into  tw» 
equal  parte,  ^nmali  Land,  which  would  be  outside  this  division,  would  indeed 
suffer  some  distortion  ^  but  as  our  acquaintance  with  the  topography  of  this 
region  is  at  present  very  slight  and  hypothetical,  any  distortion  that  may  exirt 
would  not  be  perceptible ;  this  remark,  however,  must  not  be  taken  to  include 
the  coast-line,  as  any  distortion  in  that  direction  is  a  very  serious  consideration, 
as  it  is  on  the  accuracy  of  some  fixeti  i>osition  on  the  coast  that  the  explorer,  iu 
inoBt  cases,  liases  his  suri-eys  of  the  interior  of  such  little-known  countries  ax 
Somali  Land.  The  scale  on  which  this  map  is  constructed,  afforil  ^i  '  "  *"  -  lity 
for  the  measurement  of  distances,  if  the  metric  system  is  use*!,  as  <  tru 

corresponds  to  two  kilometres,  a  fact  easily  remembered,  and  whi<-u  v>  m  <  a.iblo 
distances  to  be  measured  with  any  scale  graduate<l  on  the  metric  system.  The 
present  issue  is  a  very  valuable  addition  to  the  cartography  of  West  Africa. 

South  Africa,  Map  of ,  by  T.  B.  Johnston.     Scale  1 : 3,817,440  or  52*3  gco- 

graphical  miles  to  an  inch.    With  Index.     W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston,  Edinbnrgh  <fe 
London,  1883.     Price  in.  Gd. 

This  is  sheet  39*  of  the  last  edition  of  Johnston's  well-known  Royal  Atlas. 
It  has  been  brought  up  to  date,  and  all  railways  and  provincial  boundariea  of  tb# 
Oftpe  Colony  have  been  inserted ;  the  colouriu:z  of  these  latter  ia,  however, 
somewhat  confusing,  as  we  find  that  the  boundaries  of  the  electoral  divisions  o^ 
the   North- Western   and   Soutb-Eastcm   provinces  are  colonred   yellow,  and 
so  are  the  boundaries  of  the  Orange  Free  Slate  ;  again,  the  boundarits  of  the 
Transvaal  are  coloured  green,  and  this  also  indicates  the  electoral  divisions  of 
the  Western  and  the  jliiiland   provinces   of  the   Cape  Colony.     With   this 
exception,  it  is  a  very  good  map,  on  a  sufBciently  large  sade  to  be  useful  t». 
thosG  visiting  the  Cape,  and  iis  value   is  greatly  increased  by  the  alphabetical 
index  which  accompanies  it.    llie  map  folds  up  to  a  convenient  aise,  and  could 
readily  be  carried  in  the  pocket. 

Ttmis,  Umgebung  von ,  Porto  Farina  und  TJiserta.    Scale  1 :  600,000  or  8"1 

geographical   miles  tu  an  inch,      Pcteraiann's  '  Geographtsche  Mitlhdlttngwi,' 
Jahrgang  1883.     Seite  162.     (Duluu.) 

Tunis  et  Carthage,   Environs  de ,   leves  et  execntds   par  MM.    D«rricn, 

Koszntski,  I!t>rthant,  Hugot-Derville,  sous  la  direction  du  Commandant  Pcmer 
en  1878.    Depot  dc  la  Guerre;,  Paris.    (DulauJ) 


AMERICA. 

Assiniboia,  Map  of  port  of  the  District  of ,  North-West  Territories  of  the 

Dominion  of  Canada,  showing  Dominioiii  Lands  surveyed  to  Slst  December,  IS82, 
Scale  1 :  390,000  or  5'2  geographical  m\ks  to  an  inch.  Dominion  Lands  Office, 
Department  of  tlie  Interior,  Ottawa,  25th  January,  1383,  Lindsay  Itussell, 
Surveyor  GeneraL  Piiblislietl  by  authority  of  the  Honourable  the  Minister  of 
the  Interior. 

and  Alberta,  Maps  of  part  of  the  Districts  of — — .  Xorth-Wcst  Terri- 


tones  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada ;  showing  Domiuiou  Land  surveys  to  31st 
December,  1882.  Dominion  Lands  Oflico,  Dcixxrtmcnt  of  the  Interior,  Ottawa, 
Febnian,'  20th,  1883,  Lindsay  Uussell,  Surveyor  GeneraL  Published  byauth<.rity 
of  the  Honourable  the  Minister  of  the  Interior, 

Colombia,  P.  v.  Schenck's  Roisen  in ,  Blatt  IL  :  Routeu  von  Medeliin  nach 

Manizales  und  Honda.  Scale  1:450,000  or  6*2  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Petermami's  '  Geograjthische  Mittheilimgen,'  Jahrgang  1883,  Tafel  7.  Justtw 
Perthes,  Gotha.     {Didan.) 


MEW  MAPS. 


439 


Jforth-West  Territories,  General  Majv  of  part  of  the ,  including  the  Province 

c»f  Manitoba,  showing  Dominion  Laud  Survey's  to  Slst  December,  1882 ;  addition* 
and  corrections  to  loth  March,  1883.  Scale  1 : 2,450,000  or  33 '5  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Dominion  Lands  Office,  Department  of  the  Interior,  Ottawa, 
Lindsay  Buaaell,  Surveyor  General.    Compiled  and  drawn  by  J.  Johnston. 

This  is  one  of  the  series  of  maps  which  is  published  by  order  of  the 
Et.  Uon.  Sir  J.  A.  Macdouald,  Minister  of  the  Interior,  to  show  the  state  of 
tlie  Dominion  Land  Sxirveys  In  certain  districts,  and  in  the  present  issue  the 
Kiundaries  of  Assiuiboia,  Alberta,  Saskatchewan,  and  Athabasca  have  been 
added,  and  aubdivisiou  surveys  coloured  green.  Some  corrections  in  the 
general  survey  would  abo  seem  to  have  been  made ;  this  is  very  perceptible  in 
the  jpreat  difference  of  configuration  between  Athabasca  Lake  as  laid  down  in 
the  1S80  map  of  the  same  district,  and  the  present.  There  ia  also  an  inset  Index 
and  a  list  of  the  authorities^  other  than  the  l^ominion  Lund  Surveys,  which 
have  been  used  in  the  production  of  this  map. 

CHARTS. 

Admiralty :  - 

CHAKTS  THAT  HAVE  BEEN  CANCELLED. 

Ho.  Cuurellod  by  Nn. 

350  Harbours  in  Japan        New  chart,  Nagasaki  to  Karatsu        359 

i^l  Df«eada  and  Mariagalante    .. 


New  plan,  Anchorages  in  Guade- 
loupe aud  adjacent  Lsland^     ., 


491 

2864 
2622 


492  Saintes 

805  bt.  Anne  anchorage  and  p*jrt  du 

Moule 

2864  Beaufort  harbour '  New  plan,  Beaufort  harlwur 

2622  Fair  Isle.,      ..      ,.      -.      ..      ..       New  plan,  Fair  l*le     .. 

by  Plan  of  Pillau  harbour  ou   this  i    „         ,       -n-u      \.    \ 

,  >  New  plan,  Tillau  harbour  on 

Port  Guatulco  Morro  Aynca       ..  /  ^^^P^^*  Porte  and  anchorage  on 

\      west  coast  of  Central  America 

Buccaneer    archiiJelago     to    caiie  i  .-       ,     .  t^  .  , .    , 

,      ,  ^1  New  chart.  Buccaneer  archipelago 

r%AFo  T>  i-    1 i       to  Bedout  island      

^1052  Buccaneer  archipelago I 

„        .      .         „..,.„.                /  New  chart,  Ragged  point  to  Wen- 
1754  Bagged  point  to  Pih-ki-Shan       ,.  {       ^^^^  ^^^^   ^  / 

1759  Pih-ki.Shan  to  n^han  island.  .,  .(  ^'^    chak.  W6n-chau    Imy   to 

V       Kweshan  islands      

I  2094  Isle  of  Man New  chart.  Me  of  Mau 

1055  Dampier  archi|jelago. 
1054  Exraouth  gulf. 

CHABTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  COREECTIONS. 

Ko.  1.  North  Atlantic  ocean: — British  islands  to  Mediterranean  saa.  644. 
«t  coiat :— Delagoa  l>ay.  645.  Delagoa  bay  : — Port  Melville.  2484.  Eng- 
d,  Tbsmei  river  :— Loudon  t*j  Gmvesend.  2491,  Nortli  America,  east  coast  :— 
[Appronches  to  New  York.  210a.  Bay  of  Bengal: — Mergui  archipelago.  1380. 
1  Pacific  ocean  : — Easter  Island  or  Bapa  Nui.  2443,  South  America,  east  coast : — 
[  Paraguay  river.  2149.  Eftstern  archipelago ; — Caspar  and  Banka  straits.  822,  Bay 
I  ©f  Bengal : — Cheduba  strait  to  Coronge  island.  518.  Austraha,  west  c«.»ast : — Sharks 
[■bay.  1058,  Australia,  west  coast i—Rothneat  island  to  Warnbro  tioum!.  280. 
I  >*ewfoundlaud,  east  coast: — Notre  Dame  bay.  1118.  Scotlanfl,  north  o©ast: — ^The 
'  Shetlaud  ialea.  2487.  North  America,  east  coast :— Portsmouth  harlwur.  2885. 
Iforth    America,  west    coast :— Anchorages    in    Lower    Califoruia.     2544,  South 


1754 

1759 
2094 


440 


NEW  MAPS. 


AmericA,  east  coast :— Rio  tie  la  Plata-  2G90.  France,  west  coast :— Brest  Tonik 
2400.  China:— Min  river.  1760.  China :—(;hamn  bay  to  Port  Matbeaon,  11$ 
China : — Fort  Matheson  to  Ragged  Point.     (J.  D.  Foiier,  agent.) 

Trinidad  Island. — West  Indies : — Chart  showing   the   set  of  currents  in  tl 
vicinity  of  IJocas  de  Drago,  by  George  A.  Harragio,  m.m.     Scale  6*2  cablei  to 
incL    D.  McGregor  and  Co.,  Glasgow,  Greenock,  and  Liverpool. 

This  is  a  rough  reproduction  of  Admiralty  Chart  No.  2097.     It  juwor  t.>  I 
intended  to  show,  graphically,  the  ioformation  contained  in  the  ' ' 
Pilot,'  vol,  i,  page  81,  and  gives  but  few  of  the  soundings  shown  on 
mentioned  chart. 


United  States  Charts  :— 

No.  004.  West  coast  of  North  Americ4i  between  latitudes  51*  30' and  55*  80' J 
embracing  the  Queen  Obnrlotte  Islands,  Hecate  Strait,  and  Dison  Entrance.  Fr 
Britisb  and  United  States  Surveys  to  1881.  Price  2s.  Id,  909.  Pacific  Occ«n? 
Bebring'a  Soa,  Providence  Bay.  From  a  Survey  by  Lieut.  Maksitowitch  Inipl 
Russian  Navy,  1876.  With  plans  of  Plover  Buy  and  Slawianka  Bight  in  Plover 
Bay.  Price  1*.  3d.  910,  North  Pacific  Ocean,  Anadir  Bay,  Behriug  St'a.  From» 
chart  by  Engineer  Bnlkley,  of  New  York,  with  corrections  and  atMitions.    Price  7i 

915.  West  coast  of  Mexico,  Jlanzanilla,  and  Santiago  Bays.     From  a  Surrey 
Commander  J.  W.  PhiUp,  c.s.k.,  and  the  Officers  of  u.s.s.  Hanger,  1882.   Price  U.  I 

916.  Cuba,  south  coast.     Approaches  to  Ports  Casilda  and  Masio,  with  the  atJja 
anchorages.     From  a  Spanish  Government  Chart  of  1879.     With  a  plan  of 
Casilda.    Price  Is.  3(/,     Ilydrographic  Office,  Washington  D.C.,  1882-83. 


ATLASES. 

Letts,  Son,  &  Co. — I>etts's  Popular  Atlas,  being  a  series  of  maps  delineating  til 
whole  surface  of  the  Globe,  with  many  special  and  original  features ;  and  a  oopi* 
index  of  '23,000  names.      Letts,  Son,  &  Co.,  London,  1883.     Prices  from  2/. 
to  6/,  68. 

EDUCATIONAL. 

Italy. — Richard  Kiepert's  Schul-Wand-Atlas  der  Lander  Europa's.  Fiial 
Licferung :  Stumme  Phystkalische  Wandkarte  von  Italion.  Scale  1  :  1,000,0 
or  13*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  4  sheets.  D.  Reimer,  Berlin^  18( 
Price  4s.  6f/.    (iDukiu.y 

Richard    Kiepert*a    Schul-Wand-Atlas    der    LanJer    Europa*s.      Sechi 

Lieferung:    Politiscbe    Wandkarte  von   ItaUen.     Scale   1:1,000,000  or  13 
geographical  milea  to  an  inch.    4  sheets.    D.  Reimer,  Berlin,  1883.    Price  i*. 
(Dulau.) 

These  maps  form  part  of  a  series  of  school  maps  of  European  oountrieg  whi 
is  in  course  of  publication  by  the  same  author,  those  of  the  British  Isles  al 
France  having  already  appeared.  The  system  of  cartography  throughout  th 
series  is  uniform  and  leaves  little  to  bo  desired.  In  the  political  map  all  bor^ 
daries  are  clearly  markt^l,  and  the  populations  of  the  towns  in  December  li 
are  indicated  by  symbols ;  and  in  the  physical  map,  the  elevations  to  30 
metres  and  upwards  are  shown  by  seven  shades  of  colour ;  Rivers,  Lakes,  anj 
Swamps  are  also  clearly  laid  down.  On  the  whole,  this  series  of  mans 
admirably  adapted  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  published. 

Sachsen,  Schulkarte  vom  Kcinigreich ,  Ton  G.  KuUmann.     Scale  1 

2  get^rapbical  miles  to  au  inch,     Oadow  und  Sohn,  Hildburghausen 
chromolith.    Price  6*.    (Dnkiu.} 


PKOCEEDINGS 


or  THB 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


China f  in  some  of  its  Phjsical  and  Soelal  Aspects, 

By  E.  CoLBORNE  Baser,  Chinese  Secretary  to  H,M.  Legation,  Peking. 

CBead  at  tlio  Evoning  Meeting,  April  23rd^  1883.) 

The  liundrod  and  tenth  meridian  biaecta  China  with  happy  accuracy. 
You  will  notice  how,  in  the  extreme  north,  it  defines  the  great  south- 
ward bend  of  the  Yellow  River,  and  in  the  extreme  south,  divides  the 
island  of  Hainan.  Moreover,  it  follows,  with  curions  felicity,  the 
demarcations  which  separate  the  twelve  eastern  from  the  six  western 
provinces.  The  same  meridian  cuts  the  Yangtsze  in  the  middle  of  the 
great  gorge  ;  and  if  you  will  put  one  point  of  a  pair  of  dividers  on  that 
spot,  and  stretch  the  other  to  a  radius  of  ton  degrees,  you  will  describe  a 
circle  which  will  pass  through  Peking^  and  will  delineate  not  only  the 
long  arc  of  coast»  but  the  whole  border-line  of  China  Proper,  with  very 
pleasing  correctness.  Even  the  irregularities  balance  one  another  bo 
perfectly  that  they  are  a  help  to  the  memory  ;  the  point  of  Kansu,  in 
the  north-weat»  corresponds  with  the  promontory  of  Shan-tung  in  tho 
north-east,  and  the  extremity  of  Ynn-nau  which  juta  out  towards  Burma 
is  balanced  by  the  Chinese  island  of  Formosa.  Kuldja  and  the  Manchu 
province  of  Shing-king  ure  not  included  in  China  Proper. 

School-books  have  succeeded  in  imposing  upon  the  youthful  mind 
the  belief  that  China  is  a  level  country  abounding  in  canals ;  but  the 
canals  are  confined  to  tho  eastern  coast-region,  and  are  for  the  most 
part  natural  depressions  which  have  been  connected  by  cuttings  of  no 
great  length  or  engineering  diCScul ty.  It  is  only  to  the  east  of  tho  110th 
meridian  that  the  country  is  comparatively  level,  populous,  and  thickly 
cultivated ;  westward  of  that  line  it  is  everywhere  mountainous,  and 
with  the  one  exception  of  part  of  the  province  of  Ssu-ch'uan  (Se-chuen), 
exceedingly  poor  and  sparsely  populated.  Tho  further  one  travels  west 
the  more  mountainous  and  broken  the  surface  becomes.  I  have  ascended 
the  Yangtsze  to  a  point  where  one  of  its  banks  is  7000  feet,  and  the 
,000  feet,  above  the  level  of  the  river.      I   have  climbed  a 


No.  VHI— Aug.  1883.] 


2  o 


442 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


mountain  11,000  feet  high  only  to  find  on  the  top  of  it  another  mountai 
of  8000  or  9000  feet.      Near   the  same  region  there  are  tvro,  almost 
vertical,  precipices ;  anil  if  you   were  to  fall  off  either  of  these,  yoa, 
■wonld  have  to  fall  through  a  sheer  aetronomical  mile  of  space  befoi 
reaching  the  bottom.     It  is  true  that  these  are  exceptional  instanoes, 
and  that  they  occur  in  tho  extreme  west  of  Cbina ;  but  if  you  will  refer 
to  Captain  Blakiston's  book — '  Five  Months  on  the  Yangtaze  * — yon  will 
see  that  to  discover  mountains  and  precipices  of  perfectly  satisfying 
grandeur  and  peipeiidicularity,  it  is  not  necessary  to  go  further  weit 
thaja-siur^avunrite  meridian  of  110'. 

Of  tho  two  great  rivers  of  China,  the  Huang-ho  and  the  Yangtze,  I 
shall  say  little.  The  Huang-ho  is,  in  any  practical  sense,  nnnavigmbk 
But  the  Yangtsze  is  navigable,  and  navigated,  from  longitude  104°  to  the 
sea,  by  vessels  drawing  six  feet  of  water.  There  is  no  reason  why 
suitably  constructed  steamers  should  not  ascend  to  the  point  in  qnostion, 
1350  miles  from  the  coast;  but  steam-transit  has  hitherto  been  stopped 
by  a  series  of  rapids,  a  hundred  miles  long,  which  are  bisected  by  cur 
famous  medial  line  of  tho  110th  meridian.  These  rapids  have  beoa 
examined  by  a  certificated  pilot,  of  experience,  discretion,  and  repute, 
who  is  firmly  persuadod  that  they  offer  no  serious  obstacle  to  iUmm- 
navigation.  But  the  British  merchant-prince  has  not  yet  seen  his  way 
to  embark  in  the  undertaking. 

What  is  the  total  population  of  the  eighteen  provinces  of  Chiiu 
Proper,  is  a  question  which  very  frequently  arises,  and  to  which  vavay 
very  diverse  estimates  have  been  offered  in  reply.  The  more  exaggerated 
of  these  estimates,  which  in  some  cases  reach  tho  incredible  number  of 
five  hundred  and  fifty  millions,  are  based  upon  the  native  censns,  an 
authority  which  must  seem  utterly  untrustworthy  to  anyone  aeqaainted 
with  the  lower  class  of  Chinese  officials  who  %vould  be  employed  upon 
such  work.  The  opinion  which  the  Chinese  themselves  are  apt  to  hold 
with  respect  to  the  value  of  a  census,  may  be  gathered  from  the 
following  story,  which  was  told  me  by  a  native. 

In  verj'  early  times  tho  city  of  \Vu-miug-h»ien,  in  the  department 
of  Mei-yu-fu,  in  Central  China,  was  administered  by  a  Prefect  of  more 
than  uBual  energy  and  discrimination.  Being  directed  by  the  G^ovemor 
of  the  province  to  institute  a  census  of  tlie  population,  ho  appointed  two 
deputies  to  make  tho  necessary  returns,  taking,  at  the  same  time,  every 
precaution  to  prevent  comm\inication  and  consequent  collusion  betwwjn 
them.  When  tho  two  independent  reports  were  sent  in,  they  exhibited 
such  an  enormous  discrepancy  that  they  were  cancelled,  and  the  deputies 
were  reported  to  the  Governor  for  punishment.  The  Prefect  then 
appointed  two  other  officers  to  number  the  people,  but  this  pair,  more 
fortunate  than  their  predecessors,  managed  to  communicate  with  cue 
another,  and  returned  exactly  the  same  total,  viz.  20,401.  But  the 
Prefect,  clever  man,  suspicious  of  so  precise  a  coincidence,  put  the  two 


4 
I 


I 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCUL  ASPECTS.  443 

ofBcers  apart  and  separately  asked  them :  "  20,401 ; — was  that  odd  one 
a  male  or  female?"  To  this  the  officers  were  unlucky  enough  to 
make  conflicting  replies,  and  they  were  reported  to  the  Governor  for 
punishment. 

The  Prefect  then  determined  to  take  the  census  in  person,  and  aet 
out  for  the  city ;  but  in  the  meantime  the  population,  alarmed  at  the 
pertinacity  of  the  Prefect,  and  apprehending  that  he  was  coming  to  levy 
some  oppressive  tax,  fled  from  the  city  and  hid  themselves  in  the  fields. 
The  astonished  Prefect,  finding  the  city  deserted,  and  fearing  to  be 
reported  to  the  Governor  for  punishment,  hanged  himself  in  the  gate. 
Firmly  clenched  in  the  grasp  of  the  suicide  was  found  a  paper  with  the 
following  words : — 

Return  of  census  of  the  city  of  "Wu-ming-hsion,  in  the  department 
of  Mei-yu-fu : 

Men     None 

Women        Nono 

Children  under  14  years  of  age,  of  hoth  sexes      . .     None 

Grand  Total .'     ..     ..     None 

Now,  in  default  of  exact  returns,  since  nearly  all  parties  agree  that 
the  returns  cannot  be  trusted,  what  have  we  to  go  upon  ?  Not  muoh,  it 
is  to  be  feared.  But  still,  if  we  compare  China  with  India,  I  think  we 
may  arrive  at  something  not  remotely  distant  from  a  fair  approximation. 
I  have  had  exceptional  opportunities  for  making  the  comparison,  having 
crossed  China  three  times,  and  having  circumspectly  traversed  botli 
Burma  and  India.  And  I  have  arrived  at  this  conclusion,  that  the 
populousness  of  India,  both  in  its  denser  and  thinner  conditions,  agrees 
very  well  with  that  of  China.  If  we  remember,  at  the  same  tim^,  that 
the  area  of  British  India  is  somewhat  larger  than  that  of  the  Chinese 
provinces,  and  that  India  is  far  less  mountainous,  wo  shall,  I  think, 
conclude  that  the  extent  of  population  in  both  countries  is  not  widely 
diflferent.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  millions,  or  a  little  more,  is  therefore, 
probably,  a  fair  enumeration  of  the  Chinese  inhabitants  of  China,  and 
this  conclusion  accords  with  the  estimate  •  of  my  friend  Mr.  Hippisley,  of 
the  Chinese  Customs,  who  has  obtained  it  by  a  different  and  independent 
method. 

This  population  is  far  from  being  so  homogeneous  as  is  generally 
supposed.  I  have  often  heard  English  people  assert  their  inability  to 
distinguish  one  Chinaman  from  another ;  but  it  may  surprise  you  to 
hear  that  a  Chinaman,  on  first  coming  into  contact  with  Europeana, 
makes  exactly  and  precisely  the  same  remark  of  ourselves.  To  him  all 
Europeans  are  alike,  and  I  fear  you  will  scarcely  believe  me  if  I  assure 
you  tiiat,  at  first,  they  have  some  difficulty  in  even  distinguishing  a 

*  Published  in  tho  **  Betums  "  issued  by  the  Statistical  Department  of  the  Gbiaese 
Maritime  Customs  in  1877-1878. 

2  G  2 


444 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


lady  from  a  gentleman.     Of  tliia  romarkable  fact,  so  flattering  to  the  ' 
sex  of  which  I  am  the  humbloBt  representfttive,  T  could  reoonnt  several 
illustrations  ;  hut  one  will  suffice. 

A  Protestant  bishop,  newly  appointed  to  a  missionary  see  in  China, 
■wrishod  to  pay  a  visit  of  ceremony  to  the  Taotai,  or  Chinese  official,  who 
had  charge  of  the  city  which  was  the  hiahop's  headquarters.  As  ho 
waa  to  be  accompanied  by  the  British  Consul,  in  uniform,  the  biahojj 
appeared  for  the  occasion  in  his  episcoj>al  robes  and  lawn  sleeves, 

"  Clothed  in  white  aamito*  mystic,  wonderful," 

a  costume  which  to  a  Taotai  fresh  from  the  far  interior  was,  as  ytm 
may  imagine,  utterly  beyond  all  scope  of  comprehension  or  conjecture. 
The  intorv'iew  passed  off  with  the  usual  formalities.  The  Consul  offered 
a  few  neat  and  appropriate  remarks  about  the  weather,  and  the  Taotai 
replied  with  a  few  passing  allusions  to  the  state  of  the  crops,  gazing 
from  time  to  time  upon  the  bishop  with  furtive  but  ill-repreased 
curiosity.  The  visitors  took  leave ;  and  on  the  morrow  an  Englishman 
who  had  business  with  the  Taotai  was  thus  addressed  by  that  func- 
tionary :  "  The  Consul  was  very  polite  and  aniiablc  during  the  visit  he 
paid  me  yesterday  ;  but,  tell  mo,  why  did  he  bring  his  wife  ?  Why  diil 
he  bring  his  wife  ?  " 

In  spite  of  a  general  persistence  of  typo,  there  is  at  least  as  much 
variation  among  the  natives  of  the  Eighteen  Provinces  as  there  is  among 
the  inhabitants  of  Europe.  In  considering  the  existing  Chinese  nation 
from  any  general  point  of  view,  we  are  apt  to  forget  that,  a  thousand 
years  B.C.,  they  occupied  a  mere  fraction  of  the  tenitory  which  they  now 
poesess ;  that  even  then  they  were  not  homogeneous  in  manners  or  in 
speech  ;  and  that  they  were  environed  by  many  non-Chinese  indigenons 
peoples.  All  this  we  know  from  their  own  records.  Since  that  time, 
the  Chinese  have  gradually  spread,  not  by  ousting  or  exterminating 
their  neighbours,  as  is  too  generally  and  inconsiderately  assumed,  hut 
by  a  process  of  absorption;  in  other  words,  that  they  migrated  among 
them  and  intermarried  with  them,  and  their  Buj>erior  energy  and  oom- 
parativo  civilisation  gradually  effaced  the  national  characteristics  of  the 
surrounding  tribes.  The  same  process  is  still  going  on  in  Tibet,  in 
Burma,  in  the  Shan  country,  in  Tong-King,  aud  in  our  own  colony  of 
the  Straits  Settlements ;  aud  it  is  quite  safe  to  assert  that  in  a  few 
centuries  all  those  regions  would  become  quite  as  Chinese  in  form 
and  in  fact,  as  the  existing  provinces  of  Kuei-chou  and  Yun-nan  (which 
are  at  this  day  more  than  half-peopled  by  non-Chinese  races),  were  it  not 
that  the  far  moi-o  persistent  and  dominating  presence  of  the  European 
bars  the  way. 

I  think  you  will  see  that,  under  this  long-oontinoed  procesa  of 
extension  by  absorption,  the  original  Chinese  race,  whatever  it  may 
have  been,  must  have  lost  its  originality  and  its  purity,  and  become  a 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCUL  ASPECTS. 


445 


mixhire  of  a  great  many  races.  The  Cliine«e  blood  has  in  this  way 
been  mingled  with  that  of  such  diverse  stocks  as  the  Tatar,  the  Turki, 
the  Tibetan,  the  Burmese,  the  Mon-aniiara,  the  Tai,  and  perhaps  the 
Polynesian. 

There  is  one  indigenons  tribe,  or  people,  now  completely  enveloped 
by  a  Chinese  population,  which  has  Bacceasfully  resisted  the  wave 
Df  Chineso  encroachment.  The  Chines©  denote  them  by  the  term 
olo,  a  word  of  no  ethnic  value ;  but  in  their  own  tongue  they  call 
bemselvea  Lo-su  and  Ngo-su.  They  inhabit  a  very  mountainous 
egion  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Yangtsze,  between  the  parallels  of  27°  and 
29° ;  and  so  completely  independent  are  they  of  Chinese  influence  and 
jurisdiction,  that  they  not  only  make  incursions  upon  Chinese  territory 
for  the  purpose  of  exacting  blackmail  and  ransom,  which  they  call 
•' reni*^  for  land  of  which  they  were  dispossessed  some  200  years  ago, 
but  they  actually  maintain  a  large  slave-population,  entirely  composed 
Df  Chinese,  which  they  capture  in  the  course  of  the  same  incursions.     I 

Hlhall  not  at  present  detain  your  attention  with  a  description  of  their 
manners  and  condition,  which  I  have  already  contributed  to  the  annals 
[>f  this  Society,     I  will  merely  mention  that  they  are  a  very  robust  and 
rarlike  people,  and  occupy  a  country  which  may  be  considered  im- 

Iprcgnable.  You  may  take  that  statement  on  the  faith  of  Marco  Polo, 
who  aays  of  them,  "  they  are  a  tall  and  very  htindsome  people,  though 
in  complexion  brown  rather  than  white,  and  are  good  soldiers.  They 
have  a  good  many  towns,  and  a  vast  number  of  villages,  among  great 
mountiins,  and  in  strong  positiona." 

But,  probably,  it  is  not  their  bellicose  character  nor  their  advan- 
ageous  situation  which  has  enabled  them  to  maintain  so  persistent  a 

'^nationality.  The  secret  of  their  independence  ia  more  likely  to  be  found 
in  the  fact  that  they  never  intermarry  with  the  Chinese.  Even  the 
Ohineee  women,  whom  they  capture  in  periodical  forays,  are  only  carried 

|into  bondage  to  make  wives  for  their  Chineso  slaves.     It  is  certaiA  that 
bey  maintain  a  very  strict  code  of  ethics  in  that  respect,  and  I  may 

Fquot^,  in  proof,  the  evidence  of  a  Kouiau  Catholic  missionary,  now  a 
bishop,  who  had  the  misfortune  to  be  taken  prisoner  by  them.  He 
writes:  "  During  the  forty-eight  hours,  more  or  less,  which  I  spent'with 

Lthem,  I  noticed  a  fact  which  has  singularly  surprised  me.   I  had  always 

[supposed  them  to  bo  a  singularly  corrupt  people,  for  such  is  the  reputa- 
tion which  the  Chineso  have  given  them.  I  can  nevertheless  testify 
that  with  the  exception  of  a  few  expressions,  rather  vulgar  than 
indecent,  I  saw  nothing  in  their  manners  of  which  even  a  Christian 

^Jieed  be  ashamed.     Of  course,  this  ia  no  proof  that  these  robbers  aro 

[always  so  well-conducted  when  they  return  to  their  mountains,  but  it 

I  ahows  at  any  rate  that  they  can  behave  well  when  they  choose,  even 
in  the  midst  of  an  incursion  which  ia  favourable  to  every  abuse  of 
power." 


4-46  CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOaAL  ASPECTS. 

Seeing  that  the  study  of  this  interesting  people  is  of  no  small 
importance  in  connection  with  the  history  of  Chinese  migration,  and 
is  even  throwing  light  upon  the  evulution  of  the  art  of  "vrriting  in 
Eastern  Asia  (as  iny  friend  Mr.  Terrien  tie  la  Couperie  has  established), 
it  may  he  worth  while  to  explain  more  fully  tlian  I  have  hitherto  had 
opportunity  of  doing,  the  process  l>y  whicii  I  succeeded  in  identify 
them  with  the  Cohman  of  Marco  Polo. 

The  account  of  the  Lolos  which  I  have  given  in  papers  air 
puhlished  hy  the  Society,  accords  perfectly  with  Marco's  dcsc^ription  i 
the  Coloman,  cited  above.  But  the  Venetian  traveller  goes  on  to  say 
that  "  when  any  of  thcra  die,  the  bodies  are  burnt,  and  then  they  take 
the  bones  and  put  them  in  little  chests.  These  are  carried  up  tLc 
montitains,  and  placed  in  great  caverns,  where  they  are  hung  up  in  siicli 
wise  that  neither  man  nor  beast  can  come  at  them." 

The  Lolos  still  bum  theii-  dead,  in  the  recesses  of  a  grove,  and  the 
following  excor]it  from  rough  notes  whicli  I  kept  during  the  Grosvenor 
expedition  in  187 G  corroboi-ates  the  disposition  of  the  '*  little  chests,"  It 
should  be  remarked  that,  at  the  time  of  writing,  I  was  but  slightly 
acquainted  with  Lolo  customs,  and  did  not  immediately  appreciate  the 
coincidence. 

The  note  runs,  verbatim,  as  follows,  under  the  heading  February 
12th,  187G  : — "Before  reaching  Lao-wa-tan  we  were  shown  ledges  on 
inaccessible  cliffs  on  which  coifius  of  a  very  small  ai/Ai  wore  to  be  seen. 
I,  however,  did  not  observe  any.  These  are  supposed  to  be  relics  of  a 
bygone  barbarous  ago  before  the  Chinese  occupation.  When  asked  how 
they  were  ascertained  to  bo  colEna,  the  natives  replied  that  the  monkeys, 
which  in  summer  are  very  numerous,  throw  them  down  the  clifis.  It 
ia  a  source  of  wonder  to  the  Chinese  how  they  could  have  been  placed 
in  these  inaccessible  situations." 

"  A  great  deal  of  gold  is  found  in  the  country,"  says  Marco ;  and  at 
the  pfesent  day  the  Lolos  bring  down  for  exchange  no  small  quantity  of 
this  metal  in  thin  plates.  A  Chinese  proverb,  referring  to  a  valley 
somewhere  in  the  north  of  Lololand,  declares  that  if  the  plain  of  Wantan 
were  dug  (for  gold)  there  would  bo  no  paupers  on  the    face  of  tlio 

earth ; 

«  K'ai-liao  "Wan-tan-[)'iiig 
T'ien-hsia  wii  cli'iuDg  jen," 

which  is  economically  false,  but  not  devoid  of  geographical  value,  b 
despite  of  Captain  Burton's  thcorj'  that  "  geography  is  good,  but  gold  is 
better;' 

The  Coloman,  or  at  any  rate  the  autonomous  branch  of  them,  arc 
now  restricted  to  a  narrower  ton*itory  than  they  Liccui»icd  in  Marco's 
time  ;  for  which  fact  we  have  their  own  authority  conveyed  in  a  state- 
ment made  by  one  of  their  chiefs  to  the  missionary  mentioned  above, 
who  relates,  in  the  course  of  a  narrative  of  absorbing  interest,  how  one 


CHINA,  IN*  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


447 


of  the  chiefs  said  to  him,  "  •  Do  you  know  -who  wo  are  ?*  The  question 
8t?t«me«l  a  difficult  one  to  answer,  since  I  did  not  know  what  ho  was 
driving  at.  I  got  out  of  it  with  a  bit  of  Gascon  slyness,  wliich  could  not 
however  have  deceived  any  one,  for  the  chief  immediately  added,  *  Well» 
well  !  you  are  frightened  to-day.  We  know  you  Chinese  call  ns  thieves 
and  robbers,  but  it  is  you  who  are  the  robbers.  All  this  country  onoe 
belonged  to  our  fathei^  ;  they  had  always  been  its  mjist^rs  and  peaceable 

tpoeaesaors  until  the  Chinese  canie  and  unjustly  expelled  them.  We  were 
the  weaker,  and  had  to  yield ;  our  countr}^  was  neither  sold  nor  given 
away ;  we  come  to  collect  the  rent.  If  you  retire  to  your  own  territory 
you  will  find  that  we  shall  not  follow  you,'  *  But,  at  any  rate,*  I 
replied,  'you  need  not  kill  the  Bick  and  feeble.'  '  If  we  did  not,'  said 
he,  *  who  do  you  suppose  would  follow  us  ?  They  would  all  pretend  to 
be  sick,  and  we  should  never  make  a  single  capture.*  Unfortunately  for 
the  Chinese  Government,  this  is  true.  It  is  admitted  that  the  first 
emperors  of  the  present  dynasty  gained  possession  of  Yun-nan  by  the 
violent  expulsion  of  the  aborigines ;  but  it  remains  to  be  known  whether 
the  latter  gave  occasion  to  severe  repression  by  their  brigandage."  * 

How  far  Lolodom  originally  extended  cannot  now  bo  ascertained 
with  desirable  precision ;  but  it  is  unquestionable  that  this  interesting 
race  of  mountaineers  still  ranges — somewhat  sporadically  in  places — as 
far  east  as  the  western  districts  of  the  Kuei-chou  province.  They 
posaesB  the  art  of  writing— as  I  have  shown  by  procuring  exemplars, 
and  I  am  abio  to  record,  with  much  pleasure  in  now  publishing  the  fact 
for  the  first  time,  that  Major-General  Mesny,  of  the  Imperial  Chinese 
Army,  some  years  ago  obtained  a  thick  folio  manuscript  from  a  tribe  near 
Chon-ning,  in  Kuei-chou  (lat.  20',  long.  105^  40',  roughly).  I  have 
;ully  examined  this  work,  which  is  bound  in  goat-skin  with  the 
on,  and  am  able  to  assert  that  it  is  written  in  ordinary  Lolo  script, 
mtdeoniainn  illustrationa,  of  a  crude  and  primitive  nature,  depicting  human 
figures^  animals,  and  plants.  This  invaluable  document  is  at  present 
treasured  in  a  too  recondite  cupboard  in  the  rooms  of  the  China  Branch 
of  the  Koyal  Asiatic  Society,  in  tShanghai. 

The  point  where  this  Lolo  folio  was  discovered  lies  at  the  eastern 
limit  of  the  country  which,  long  previous  to  my  researches,  Colonel 
Yule  had  surudsed  to  be  represented  by  Marco's  Coloman,  That  region 
is  indicated  by  the  Venetian  with  complete  lucidity.  From  the  modem 
.mi-chou,  which  in  his  time  was  called  Anin,  identically  what  he  calls 
it,  he  came  in  eight  days  to  Coloman,  and  in  twelve  more  to  Sinugul» 
wliich  latter  name  is  a  transcriber's  metamoqjhosis  of  Siugiulu,  Marco's 
manner  of  writing  the  contemporaneous  name  of  the  modem  Siu-chou-fu, 
locally  known  as  Sui-fu. 

Baron  v.  Richthofen  several  years  ago  suggested  the  main  line  of 

*  This  curious  episode  of  missinnnry  adventure  is  recounted  by  Mgr.  Feaoail,  Bishop 
of  Ytm-nan,  in  tbe  '  Anuales  de  la  Piopagutiou  de  la  Foi.' 


It 


448 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


this  argument  and  Colonel  Yulo  was  inclined  to  accept  it.  I  claim  no 
more  credit  in  tbo  discussion  than  a  faith  in  the  Baron's  sagacity  and  in 
Colonel  Yule's  erudition. 

To  say  that  all  Chinese  are  alike  is  therefore,  not  to  use  too  severe  a 
term,  inexact ;  thoy  include  wide  discrepancies  of  physique  and  even  of 
colour,  as  is  obvious  to  every  one  who  has  tj-avolled  in  their  country; 
they  are  animated  among  tliemselvea  by  mutual  antipathies  and  even 
hostilities.  Their  languages  vary,  if  not  radically,  at  any  rate  to  the 
extent  of  mutual  incomprehension.  A  Chinese  official  appointed  to  a  post 
in  llu-nan  or  in  Kuang-ai,  has  to  employ  intoi-preters.  To  ask  *'  Can  yoo 
speak  Chinese  ? "  is  very  much  the  same  as  to  aak  "  Can  you  speak 
European  ?  " 

TJic  emigrant  ChincBe,  that  is  to  say  the  coolies,  of  whom  -vfe  haTO 
heard  so  much  lately  in  Australia^  in  India,  and  in  Singapore  and  its 
neighbourhood,  come  almost  exclusively  from  the  ex.trerae  south-east  of    H 
China.     It  is  not  without  some  hesitation  that  a  native  of  Peking  or     " 
Nanking  can  bo  brought  to  regard  them  as  fellow  Chinese,  and  you  will 
remember  how  well  and  cheerfidly  they  served  us  against  their  coimtry-    ^M 
men  of  the  north  in  the  coolie  corps  which  we  raised  in  the  war  of  1860.    ^^ 
These   emigrants  speak  at  least  three  totally  distiuct   languages,  and 
engage  among  themselves  in  the  most  furious  faction -fights,  as  is  notori-  ^M 
ous  to  every  resideut  in  Singapore,      Nevertheless,  they  do  manage  to  ^^ 
find  some  sort  of  modtie  vhendi  and  to  maintain  a  certain  order,  assisted  as 
they  are  to  that  end  by  the  rude  and  ready  arm  of  the  British  policeman. 
But  if  you  bring  these  same  emigrants  into  contact  with  emigrants  from 
Cenlral  or  Western    China,   you  will  find    that  the  two  incompatible 
elements  will  nut  mis.      The  only  case  where  the  experiment  has  been   ^1 
put  to  the  test  is  in  the  Burmese  region.     Native  Burma  contains  no  in-  V 
oonsiderablo  Chinese  population  which  has  come  down  overland  from 
Yuu-nan.     The   Chinese  emigrants  in  British  Burma  have,  of  conrso, 
come  round  by  sea  from  Canton  or  Fukion.     But  the  two  contingents  do 
not  approach  one  another  and  intermingle,  but  remain  apart,  the  one  in 
native  Burnia  and   the  other  in   our  own  territory.      I  once  brought 
a  native  of  Yun-nan  down  the  Irawadi  to  Kangoon,  where,  if  he  had 
stayed,  he  might  easily  have  earned  two  shillings  a  day ;  but  he  only  re- 
mained a  few  hours  and  then  returned,  finding  as  he  told  me,  that  the 
Cantonese  would  make  hia  life  very  uncomfortable  if  ho  did  not  learn 
their  language  and  join  their  society. 

It  is  to  be  feared  that  this  discussion  cannot  have  much  interest  for 
you ;  but  I  hope  that  it  will  at  least  induce  you  to  reconsider  the  pre- 
conceived opinion  that  the  Chinese  are  a  homogeneous  people.  The 
subject  possesses  a  practical  hearing  of  some  importance  at  the  present 
moment  when  the  steady  hand  of  England,  bearing  a  golden  key,  is 
about  to  unlock  the  rich  secrets  of  Borneo,  and  perhaps  of  New  Guinea.  |H 
Those  remote  and  obscure  lands  can  bo  colonised  only  with  the  help  uf  ^| 
the  Chinese,  for  the  clear  reason  that  there  is  no  other  people  to  accom- 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


449 


plish  the  task;  and  it  Ivehovca  the  projectors  and  organisers  of  this 
^€iviH«ing  work  to  be  forearmed,  as  they  doubtless  will  bo  forearmed, 
"^  against  the  element  of  discord  which  I  have  endeaToiired  to  indicate. 

To  turn  to  the  question  of  religion.  I  am  persuaded,  as  the  result 
of  many  conversations  with  natives,  that  the  Chinaman  is  incapable  of 
understanding  the  refinements  of  dogma;  indeed,  the  language  is 
incompetent  to  express  the  subtleties  of  theological  reasoning,  just  as  it 
is  inadequate  to  represent  the  nomenclature  of  European  science.  It  is 
true  that  some  sort  of  equivalents  exist  for  the  simpler  cases  of  scientifio 
terminology,  but  these  have  been  invented  and  introduced  by  Europeans 
and,  in  the  absence  of  a  European  to  exj>!ain  them,  are  unintelligible. 

I  How  obscure  the  technicalities  of  Christian  theology  must  appear  when 
conveyed,  in  Chinese,  to  a  Chinaman,  may  be  judged  from  the  fact  that 
an  apparently  interminable  controversy  has  long  been  raging  among 
missionsiries  of  various  denominations  on  what  would  seem  to  you  the 
simple  question  of  rendering  into  Chinese  the  word  God. 
But  this  is  a  delicate  subject,  and  I  will  not  pursue  it ;  for  yon  will 
ask  mo  if  a  Chinaman  cannot  understand  Christianity,  how  can  he 
understand  the  refinements  of  Buddhism,  which    is,  perhaps,  a   more 

■  subtle  cult.  I  shall  reply,  with  some  alacrity,  that  he  does  not  under- 
stand it,  and  what  is  more,  tliat  he  nover  did,  and  what  is  most,  that 
nobody  ever  did,  or  can,  or  will.     Divested  of  its  excellent  morality 

^  and  its  sweet  leaching  of  gentleness  and  benignity  towards  every  thing 

B'that  lives,  what  core  of  spirituality  does  Buddhism  retain?  Nothing 
l»eyond  a  mere  hoi>e,  most  ardent  and  sincere  and  pervading  and  intense, 
but  still  only  a  h<q>e,  to  free  not  merely  the  whole  human  race,  but 

^keyery  living  creature,  from  the  desires  and  afifections  and  cares  and 
miseries  which  are  inseparable  from  existence.  And  this  consummation, 
kn«.iwn  as  Nirvana,  which  is  itself  incoiiiprehensible,  is  to  be  ultimately 
achieved  by  a  proL^ess  iff  nbstrarting  the  mind  fr^m  the  contemplation 
of  ever}' thing  but  the  abstract;  you  must  not  think  of  thinking  of  any- 
thing  but  the  unthiukable.     Don't  let  us  think  any  more  about  it. 

^k  Such  thinking,  in  the  words  of  a  famous  parody, — 


"  ia  bill  an  idle  waste  (jf  thought. 
For  nonght  Ja  everything,  and  everything  is  nought." 


Let  me  relievo  your  minds  from  this  metaphysical  burden  by  quoting  a 
passage  from  a  Chinese  poet  whose  verses  were  inscribed,  in  the  year 
1603,  upon  a  brazen  tablet  on  the  summit  of  a  sacred  mountain,  in  the 
furthest  west  of  China,  where  1  saw  them,  a  few  years  ago,  and  brought 
I  away  a  copy.     The  lines  form  part  of  a  Buddhist  hymn  : — 

"  Mud,  ftnd  all  tnnrlal  creaturre,  lose  their  wuy 
At  uttdutghl  ill  a  mighty  wilderuc^. 
Ami  fnce  to  fa(.v  with  Bunldhu  in  the  dark 
llu'j  know  liim  not,  nor  anything  discern. 
But  sutWeoly  they  see  the  briglit  red  disc 
Cfiining  in  fiery  «plendour  from  Ihe  tast," 


450 


CHIKA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


Without  stopping  to  notice  the  close  connection  between  Buddhism  and 
Holar  worBhip,  and  the  symboliam  of  the  wheel,  which  is  here  iudicated, 
1  will  aek  your  pcrmiBsion  to  quote  a  few  Hues  from  another  poet,  where 
the  eamo  ultimate  thought  and  the  same  supreme  aspiration  of  Buddhitfin 
occur,  and,  curiously  enough^  the  climax  takes  the  same  form  of  literary 
expression.  This  time  the  poet  is  an  Englishman,  whose  name  iit 
Alfred  Tennyson : — 

"  I  had  a  vision  when  the  night  was  late; 
A  youth  came  riding  toward  a  palacc-gute. 
Ho  roile  a  horse  with  wings,  that  wouhl  have  flown, 
But  that  hia  heavy  rider  kept  him  down. 
And  from  the  palace  cume  a  child  of  gin, 
And  took  him  by  the  curl.?,  uud  led  him  in. 

And  Ihe.i  I  look'd  up  toward  a  mountain  tract. 
That  girt  the  re^jiun  with  high  cliff  and  lnwn  ; 
I  saw  that  ©Very  mora  in  jr,  fur  withdriiwn 
Beyond  the  darhiusii  and  the  catanict, 
Qod  uiiide  Himaelf  an  awful  rose  of  dawn. 


At  last  I  heiird  a  voice  iii»r»ii  the  slope 

Cry  to  the  sumiuiL— '  Id  there  any  hope ! ' 

To  which  an  answer  pe^l'd  from  that  high  land. 

But  in  a  tonguu  no  man  could  underslaud; 

An<l  on  the  glimmerinjj;  limit,  far  withdmwn, 

God  made  Himeeif  an  awful  rose  of  dawn.^' 

These  comparisons,  and  these  considerations,  will  Hcrvo  to  give  some 
general  idea  of  Buddhism  in  its  higher  and  more  cultured  aspect.  But 
in  the  China  of  the  present  day  this  phase  of  the  faith  is  completely 
extinct.  It  has  never  been  my  fortune  to  meet  with  an  educated 
Chinaman  possessing  any  knowledge  whatever  of  the  inner  and  truer 
significance  of  Buddhism.  Indeed,  the  theory  of  Confucianism,  which 
is  a  system  of  social  order  and  very  crude  moral  philosophy,  oon- 
temptuouBly  waives  the  discussion  of  all  religions,  treating  them 
indeed  with  such  disdain  that  it  scarcely  condescends  oven  to  persecute 
them. 

The  ordinary  work-a-day  Chinaman  wi»  however,  in  some  vulgar 
sense  a  Buddhist.  But  his  simple  and  natural  mind  has  transformed 
Buddha  into  a  personal  and  superiiitetidiiig  deity  who  can  be  prayed  to, 
and  propitiated  hy  vows,  offerings,  and  pilgrimages.  When  asked  if  he 
lielieves  in  a  future  state,  he  replies  that  he  doesn't  know  anything 
akiut  it.  But  you  will  often  find  that  he  has  some  vague  notion  of  a 
world  to  come,  which,  however,  will  be  modelled  on  the  existing 
mundane  system,  and  will  contain  a  material  emperor,  with  material 
mandarins,  gaolers,  executioners,  and  tax-gatherers,  all  of  the  present 
type.  How  fur  this  conception  differs  from  the  Buddhist  ideal  I  need 
not  stop  to  indicate.     Instances  of  a  peculiar  simplicity  of  logic,  or  of 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


451 


expression,  are  often  met  with  among  the  more  devout  Chinese,  whethei* 

B  Christian  or  Buddhiet ;  and  such  cases  are  at  times  very  puzzling  to  tlie 

H«trj»nger.     I  will  quote  two  examples,  the  first  of  which  occuiTcd  to  a 

^missionary  who,  seeing  a  counlrj-mau  burning  incense  before  a  wayside 

shrine,  asked  him,  "What's  tho  good  of  burning  incense  to  Buddha?  " 

The  Chinaman  looked  up,  and  then  reflected,  and  replied,  "Well,  if  yon 

come  to  tliat,  what's  the  good  of  not  burning  incense  to  Buddha  ?  " 

The  other  case  occurred  to  myself,     I  was  nearing  the  end  of  a  long 
^^  day's  march,  when  I  saw  an  old  man  and  his  daughter  sitting  at  the 
Hxuoath  of  a  coal-mine.     Learning  from  him  that  the  end  of  the  stage  was 
Helose  at  hand,  I  entered  into  conversation,  in  the  course  of  which  the 
■  girl  asked  me  suddenly  if  I  was  a  Pi,  or  a  Tan.   1  was  obliged  to  confess 
that  I  did  not  understand  her,  and  from  that  moment  the  pair  treated 
me  rather  coldly.     It  was  not  till  long  afterwards  that  I  discovered  the 
significance  of  the  question,  and  learned  that   it    is    a  pass-word   by 
r"which  native  Christians   in  that   district  recognise  a  fellow-believer. 
I  The  words  mean,  "Are  you  a  heathen,  or  a  Christian?"     The  expres- 
|-Bioa  Tan  being  the  finul  «yllable  of  the  word  Ki-li-tan,  which  is  the 
st  the  Chinese  can  get  to  the  pronunciation  of  tho  word  Chriatianus. 
'  Pi  means  a  heathen ;  but  1  think  you  would  not  guess  its  deriva- 
tion, even  if  I  were  to  give  you  until  the  next  meeting  of  this  learned 
and  distinguished  Society.     Well,  Pi  is  the  first  syllable  of  Pilatus, 
otherwise   Pontius   Pilate.      The    ingenuous    Chinese    converts    have 
■■Belected  the  wicked  mandarin  of  Judtea  as  the  representative  of  all 
that  is  characteristic  of  Paganism, 

The  Chinese  question,  both  in  its  social  and  physical  aspects,  is  now 

I  merging  in  the  larger  consideration  of  international  comity  and  com- 
munity ;  and  in  close  connection  with  this  subject  I  should  like  to 
say  something  about  trade-routes,  English  as  well  as  French,  in  other 
"words,  from  the  Burmese  side  and  from  the  side  of  Tong-King. 
With  reference  to'the  route  via  Bhamo,  which  atill  finds  advocates,  I 
will  at  once  concede  that  the  Irawadi  is  the  natural  highway  of  Burma  ; 
that  the  extension  of  railways  will  ultimately  reach  Bhamo ;  and  that 
the  construction  of  a  iiighroad  from  Bhamo  to  the  Chinese  town  of 
Momein  presents  no  formidable  dijfficulty.  All  these  facts  are  undenied 
and  undeniable ;  but  the  fatal  objection  remains  that  the  proposed  route 
leads  into  a  blind  altey,  and  that  the  real  diflSculties  only  begin  at 
Momein.  Between  that  town  and  Ta-li-fu — a  distance  of  150  miles — no 
less  than  six  passes,  8000  feet  high»  have  to  be  crossed.  The  country  is 
miserably  poor  and  thinly  peopled,  and  great  stretches  of  it  are  barren 
or  at  any  rate  uncultivated  dcvvns,  rugged  hill-tops  and  ravines,  and 
Bieep  slopes  covered  with  virgin  forest.  The  western  and  northern 
parts  of  the  province  have  gained  such  evil  repute  among  the  Chinese 
for  all  the  miseries  and  accidents  of  travel,  that  the  wayfarer  in  those 
inhospitable  tracts  is  said,  in  popular  phrase,   to  "eat   the  bitterness 


452 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS. 


of  Yun-nan/*  But  oven  if  Ta-li-fu  be  reached  very  little  is  gained.  The 
populous  aud  oommercial  districts  of  Ssu-ch'iian  are  still  600  miles 
distant,  and  are  only  to  bo  att*iiiicd  by  travelling  through  the  kind  of 
country  above  described  to  Sut-fu,  or,  as  an  alternative,  to  Yachou  by  the 
Bataun;  route,  which  iiiclutles  some  twenty  passes  more  than  12,000  fuel 
above  the  sea-level.  I  am  exaggerating  nothing  :  all  these  height*  and 
distances  have  been  measured  by  the  lamented  Captain  Gill  or  myielii 
aud  it  would  be  unnecessary  to  adduce  them  wore  it  not  that  the  advo* 
cates  of  the  Bhamo  route  seem  to  refuse  them  attention. 

At  the  same  time  I  am  far  from  denying  the  importance  of  Bhamo  a» 
a  commercial  outj>oBt.  At  no  very  remote  period  it  will  probably  form 
tbe  link  of  connection  between  the  railway  systems  of  Burma  and  AflflaiD. 
It  already  possesses  a  certain  trade,  and  Colonel  81aden*8  projected  road 
will  open  to  easier  access  the  rich  valley  of  the  Tapeng,  and  the  unex- 
plored but  undoubtedly  pralnctive  region  of  tho  Ui>i>er  Irawadi. 
These  are  obvious  and  immediat^a  advantages;  but  to  maintain  that  the 
trade  of  the  populous  and  commercial  centres  of  the  '•  far  East "  will 
ever  flow  uphill  to  Bhamo  re<|uires  a  faith  which  can  indeed  remove 
mountains. 

Yery  much  the  same  reasoning  applies,  mutatis  mulandit,  to  the  French 
project  of  opening  Yun-nan  by  the  way  of  the  Red  River  from  tbe 
Tong-King  siile.  Wo  will  at  once  admit,  as  before,  that  the  Red  River 
is  the  natural  highway  of  Tong-King,  and  if  our  enthusiastic  neighboun 
seriously  desire  to  colonise  that  debatable  land,  and  can  do  so  reasonably, 
justly,  and  humanely,  I  for  one  ^vish  them  every  success.  The  opening 
of  that  approach  will  no  doubt  induce  a  current  of  small  traffic  which  is 
ut  present  interrupted  by  the  exactions  of  the  Chinese  filibusters  knowD 
as  the  Black  Flag  confedorac}'.  But  the  Red  River  will  not  bring  tho 
French  into  communication  with  any  populous  and  productivo  part  of 
China.  It  will,  at  best,  ouly  carry  them  to  the  frontier  of  a  region 
of  high  plateaus  and  profound  ravines,  unfertile  and  little  cultivated, 
inhabited  by  a  sparse  poimlation  of  lieterogeneous  tribes,  disturbed, 
distressed,  and  miserably  poor.  But  let  us  assume  that  all  the  physical 
difficulties  of  the  route  have  been  successfully  surmounted,  and  that 
some  comparatively  rich  centre  of  production,  say  the  capital  itself, 
has  been  attained,  either  from  Bhamo  or  fr*im  Hanoi.  What  will  the 
trade-apostle  gain  in  reward  for  his  labours,  dangers,  and  suflferings  ?  lie 
will  find  himself  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  poppy-field,  and  wondering 
how  he  ever  came  to  forget  that  the  only  lucrative  industrj*  of  Y'un-nau 
is  the  cultivation  of  opium. 

It  was  evident  bi  Mr.  Grosvenor  and  the  members  of  tho  Margary 
Mission  that  if  it  is  desirable  to  open  Yun-nan  commercially — which 
I  make  bold  to  doubt — the  approach  must  be  made  from  the  south 
by  ascending  the  valleys,  and  this  conviction  has  been  powerfully  con- 
firmed by  the  experience  of  the  latest  traveller  in  those  regions,  Mr. 


4 


SA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS.— DISCUSSION.     453 

Archibald  Colqtihotm,  as  you  will  find  recorded  in  bis  book  *  Across 
Cliryse.'  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  Mr.  Colqnhoun  may  be  induced  to 
follow  up  his  most  interesting  and  sup^gcstive  journey  by  another 
expedition  from  the  Shan  side.  But  I  take  the  liberty  of  urging  him 
— in  the  event  of  hia  undertaking  a  second  chapter  of  exploration — 
not  to  raako  trade-communication  with  Southern  China  the  chief  purpose 
of  his  travel,  but  rather  to  aim  at  the  improvement  of  commercial  rela- 
tions between  British  Burma  and  the  Shan  population.  It  would  be 
impertinent  of  me  to  remind  him  that  the  Shans,  a  lettered  and  civilised 
people  of  Siamese  race,  but  of  more  than  Siamese  energy  and  enter- 
prise, are  animated  with  very  friendly  feelings  towards  their  English 
neighbours,  and  occupy  a  vast  territory  with  which  we  already  possess 
a  well-established  commercial  intercourse.  The  extension  and  improve- 
ment of  that  intercourse  cannot  fail  to  bring  us  into  communication 
with  Southern  Yun-nan,  which  province,  indeed,  is  peopled  in  a  very 
important  degree  by  immigrants  or  natives  of  Shan  lineage. 

■        In  introducing  Mr.  Baber, 
The  President  said  the  pajier  to  bo  read  waa  on  China  in  its  Physical  and  Social 
Aspects,  by  Mr.  E.  Colborae  Baber,  whose  previoua  papers  and  contributions  to  the 
Society  had  won  the  admiration  of  all  real  «!;eographer8.  In  tlie  year  1876,  Mr.  Baber 
acoompanied  Mr.  Gmavenor,  now  First  Secretary  of  Legation  at  IVking,  in  hisexpedi- 
^-  tion  across  Southern  China  to  Bhamo,  through  the  province  of  Yun-uan  ;  in  1879  he 
^k  executed  a  journey  of  great  extent  through  a  country  previously  undescribed,  in  the 
H  great  province  of  Se-chuen,  and  there  met  with  an  aboriginal  nvouat}\in  tribe,  the 
^^Lolos,  who  had  an  alphabet  of  their  own  whicli  had  never  been  deciphered ;  and  in 
the  following  year  he  pursued  hia  investigations  into  another  part  of  the  oountrj'  that 
had  never  been  descriiiied  by  any  European,     During  these  journeys  he  made  a  vast 
nnmber  of  careful  astronomical  observations,  fixing  the  latitude  of  120  places  and  the 
longitude  of  many  otlntrs.     The  literary  style  in  which  those  results  were  brought 
before  the  public  was  a  model  for  geographers.    The  scene  of  his  explorations  had 
boen  the  two  provinces  of  Yun-nan  and  Se-chuen.    Yun-nan,  the  smaller  of  the  two, 
was  about  the  same  »ize  as  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.     Hia  journeys  were  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  lalmurs  of  their  eminent  gold  medaEisLs,  the  German  Hichthofen,  the 
French  Gamier,  and  the  English  Captain  Gill. 

The  following  discussion  ensued  on  the  reading  of  the  paper : — 
Sir  Rutherford  Alcock  said  that  Mr.  Btiber  had  shown  that  he  could  convey  a 
'  great  deal  of  instruction  in  an  amusing  manner.  The  Bubject  which  he  had  dealt  with 
waa  a  large  one.  The  pajwr  liad  left  an  im^jression  on  his  raind  that  the  author  had 
not  treated  China  quite  handsomely.  First  of  all  he  had  minhnised  the  area,  and 
said  that  China  Proper  waa  smaller  than  India.  Tliat  was  to  him  a  surprising  state- 
ment ;  but  he  would  follow  Mr.  Baber  blindfold  in  any  matter  of  geography.  The 
author  had  also  called  tbo  Grand  Canal,  which  people  were  accustomed  to  regard  as 
^^one  of  the  great  achievementfl  uf  the  world,  little  more  than  a  ditch,  and  he  had  also 
Bc\it  the  population  down  one-half.  Fortunately  hn  had  not  touched  the  Great  Wall 
of  China,  and  this  was  still  left  therefore  for  the  rising  generation  to  welcome  as  an 
eighth  wonder  of  the  world.  The  part  that  China  had  played  in  the  history  of 
the  world,  and  more  especially  in  the  destiny  of  Asia  from  the  earliest  historic  period, 
was  aach  that  it  was  impossible  to  regard  it  without  a  feeling  of  intense  interest. 


454     CHINA,  IN  SOJJE  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS.— DISCCSSIOK. 


The  Chinese  had  shown  on  example  of  one  who  wiw  not  divinely  inspirod»  vxerciatng*! 
tliroagh  nearly  2500  years  an  authority,  weight,  and  power  which  the  founders  of  otSiar 
religions  might  well  envy.     That  wa»  a  very  remarkable  fivcL  which  rather  militated 
against  the  argument  that  there  was  no  homogeneity  in  the  Chinese  race.  It  waa^ 
true  there  had  been  a  great  niixturo  of  tribes,  races,  and  clans,  and  that  the  inhal 
of  the  different  provinces  could  not  tinder.stand  one  another ;  nor  was  it  an  ancon 
case  for  inhabitants  of  villages  20  miles  apart  to  he  unable  to  converse  inlelligibly  i 
one  another  except  through  the  written  language.     Still,  it  had  been  »  luighty  I 
empire,  and  though  it  was  the  JMongols  who  tinst  led  the  way  across  Aftia,  they 
amalgamated  so  much  with  the  Chinese,  that  the  latter  must  be  regnrded  &5  takia*  I 
part  in  that  great  successitin  of  raids  by  the  descendants  of  Genghis  Khan  which  cuU 
minated  in  the  Turkish  advance  to  the  gates  of  Vienna,  and  which  held  all  Eiiropo 
for  a  time  in  suspense.     The  great  characteristic  of  the  Chinese  wi\s  tenacitv  of  ' 
purpose.     They  never  Boemed  to  forego  an  object  that  they  had  once  made  up  their 
minds  to  accomplish.     Yarkand  was  reconquered  after  a  laps©  of  ten  or  twelve  jesm, 
as  was  also  Yun-nan,  which  for  a  long  time  'ivas  in  rebellion.     In  this  respect  iho 
Chinese  differed  materially  from  all  other  Asiatic  races  with  which  he  was  acquaiuted, 
and  they  were  the  characteristics  of  a  nation,  not  of  a  mere  agglomeration  of  i>ei^>le3 
and  trilx's. 

Sir  Thomas  Wade  quite  Hgr^cd  with  Mr.  Baber  as  to  the  invariable  tendency  to 
over-estimate  I  he  population  of  China.  In  the  beginning  of  the  present  centoiy  it 
was  taken  for  granted  that  the  population  was  300,000,000.  In  the  course  of  the 
last  century  the  Jesuits  estimated  it  at  150,000,000,  and  others  at  230,000,Oi>>. 
The  great  emperor  who  reigned  fur  sixty  years,  in  the  middle  of  the  eight<-enth  century, 
was  filled  w^ith  apprehension  at  the  extraordinary  growth  of  the  population  recordo<i 
to  him  by  those  who  had  taken  a  census.  In  18 IG  the  number  waa  .set  down  as 
330,000,000,  and  in  1850  it  was  reported  to  bo  412,000,000.  That  wa*  beforts  Oa 
outbreak  of  the  great  rebellion,  or,  at  all  events,  before  it  waa  regarded  aa  having 
l>egim.  He  had  seen  a  census  taken  at  Canton,  when  all  the  regular  formalities  were 
observed,  and  tlie  whole  thing  lookevi  so  complete,  that  in  a  European  country  it 
would  have  been  regarded  as  a  trustworthy  return,  hut  he  was  quite  »ure  it  waa  not. 
In  1860,  when  the  Summer  Palace  was  taken,  the  records  captured  there  showwl 
that  a  full  return  of  all  the  provinces  was  made  in  the  twelfth  montli  of  every  ytu. 
The  most  rteent  which  he  saw  was  412,000,000,  hut  he  was  certain  that  it  vn% 
nothing  more  than  a  pro  rafa  augmentation.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  province  of 
Kuang-si  had  been  in  a  state  of  rebellion  since  1846,  and  was  overrun  by  brigaQdJ^ 
but  he  could  not  doubt  that  the  ceusus  waa  regularly  reported.  From  the  year 
1852  the  great  iband  of  rebels  moved  north  upon  the  great  valley  of  the  Yangtae: 
in  the  spring  of  1853  they  took  Nanking,  and  in  six  weeks  marched  700  milcsy  to 
within  80  miles  of  the  capital.  For  the  thirteen  subsequent  years  they  were  so  far 
in  {wssesaion  of  certain  parts  of  China  as  to  render  any  census  of  it  impossible,  and 
he  could  testify  that  a  number  of  cities  which  were  vast  centres  of  i^pulation  were 
destroyed,  and  had  not  yet  been  adequately  restored.  It  wtia  a  generally  received 
opinion  that  one-half  of  the  population  had  perislitd,  and,  therefore,  he  was  not 
astonished  t^  hear,  last  year,  especially  aa  there  was  a  territic  famine  in  the  ikorth- 
weatern  provinces  six  years  ago,  that  the  census  waa  not  higher  than  285,000,000, 
as  made  by  the  Board  of  Kt- venue  in  the  year  1881.  Geography  books  put  the  papu- 
lation of  Peking  at  3,000,000,  but  after  residing  there  for  n{>warda  of  twenty  years, 
he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  not  half  a  million;  and  a  French  phvfcjciaa, 
who  had  been  making  oViservations  in  a  more  regular  way,  waa  of  opinion  tjiat  it  ynt 
about  400,000.  At  the  point  where  the  Yangtsze  received  the  ilan  river,  besides  ua 
enormous  perpetual  fair,  or  open  market  town,  Han-kow,  there  were  two  citic«, 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS.— DISCOSSION.     456 


.  one  of  considerable  importance.    The  population  of  Han-kow  wa»  formerly  set  down 
as  about  3,000,000,  but  when  be  was  there  in  18G8,  aftt-r  tlio  place  ha(l  been  occu- 
pied three  times  by  the  rebels,  be  went  to  the  top  of  a  hill  which  overlooks  Hao- 
yang-fn  on  tlie  left  bank,  nud  Wu-cbaDg-fu  on  the  ri^ht  bank,  and  btith  be  and 
Mr.  Lnwrenoe  Oliphant  came  to  the  concluaion  that  there  never  conid  have  been  a 
population  of  more  than  half  a  luillion.     The  outline  of  what  had  been  was  rafficieiitly 
discernible  for  them  to  make  the  estimate.     With  reganl  to  the  bomogeneity  of  the 
Chinese,  he  entirely  agreed  with  Jlr.  Buber.     In  the  year  1853  Shanghai  fell  into 
the  hands  of  some  riff-raff,  who  culled  themselves  a  society,  and  professed  to  be  a 
branch  of  the  <;reat  Taiping  Confederation  ;  but  they  were  in  reality  a  collection  of 
Cantonese  and  Fc-kien  adventurers  of  the  lowest  description.    Tliey  had  i>osges8ion  of 
the  town  some  six  weeks  before  the  imperial  forces  came  to  dislodge  them.     For 
eighteen  months  the  imj>erial  army  grew  around  the  Umn,  and  was  comix)3ed  of 
men  drawn  from  ten  provinces.     He  had  plenty  of  opportunity  of  conversing  with 
them,  and  at  the  end  of  the  campaign,  he  could  tell  what  province  any  man  he  met 
belonged  to.    As  had  lieen  observed,  it  was  generally  considered  tbat  the  Chinese 
•were  so  much  alike  that  it  was  difljcult  to  distiuguiah  one  from  another.  Their  habit 
of  shaving  the  head  bad  a  great  deal  to  do  with  that;  but  no  one  could  be  many 
years  in  China  without  jHjrceiving  that  there  was  a  very  marked  distinction  between 
the  men  from  the  far  wi'st,  from  the  south,  and  from  the  north.     Still  more  remark- 
able, they  would  not  fail  to  notice  an  extreme  difterence  between  the  inhabitants  of 
ang-tung  und  Kuang-bi,  and  all  the  rest  of  the  empire.     It  appeared  to  him  that 
^^b»  pe«jplc  of  Kuang-tung  must  have  been  a  Malay  immigration,  but  their  spreading 
northwards  was  stopped  by  a  vast  range  of  mountains  8000  or  10,000  feot  high. 
It  yns  noticeable  that  the  Cantonese  never  spoke  of  themselves  a»  the  mass  of  the 
Cbinflse  did  with  reference  to  the  Han  dynasty  which  l)egftn  200  years  before  Christ. 
The  central  kingdom  was  originally  the  province  of  Shan-si.     That  was  the  seat  of  a 
sovereign  who  had  certain  privileges  almost  pontifical,  aiud  he  waa  done  homage  to  by  the 
«u-rounding  jirincipalities.     About  200  years  liefore  Christ  tbat  dynasty  was  uver- 
thn^wn,and  the  principalities  were  overthrown  in  succession,  and  goveruoti  under  ono 
cliief,  who  was  spoken  of  in  history  as  the  first  emporur  of  the  whole  empire,  but  he 
did  not  rule  over  anything  Uke  modem  China  Projier,  nor  was  Kuiuig-tung  incorporale<l 
In  the  empire  until  six  centuries  after  Christ.    While  the  men  of  the  other  provinces 
Rpoke  of  themselves  as  men  of  Han,  the  Cantonese  always  spoke  of  themselves  as 
men  of  Tang.     He  did  not  quite  go  thu  length  that  Mr.  liaber  did  with  regard  to  the 
langnagefi  of  the  provinces.     The  people  spoke  with  such  a  dialectic  difference  that 
those  of  one  province  did  not  understand  those  of  another.    Even  the  Fokienese  and 
the  Cantonese  who  were  next-door  neighbours  did  not  understand  each  other.     But 
ihe  idiom  of  the  different  provinces  was  radically  the  same.     The  language  of  the 
Government,  which  we  call  the  mandarin  dialect,  was  learned  by  the  whole  empire-, 
pretty  much  as  French  in  former  times  waa  learned  throughout  Europe.     The  idiom 
uf  the  Cantonese  was  in  some  respects  more  classical  than  that  of  the  more  northern 
provinces.    There  oould  be  no  doubt  that  the  popnlation  of  China  was  formed  from 
neveral  races,  but  bo  was  not  prepared  to  hazard  any  conjecture  as  to  the  forth- 
coming of  those  races.     ITiero  was  fair  ground  for  believing  that  Shan-si,  which 
eventually  became  the  chief  among  the  states,  wa.s  founded  by  immigrants  who 
alowly  acquired  the  supremacy  over  the  adjoining  countries,  not  generally  by  force 
of  arms,  but  by  the  force  of  their  civilisation.     He  believed  that  the  pennanence  of 
the  empire  was  due  to  moral  causes,  among  which  was  the  fact  that  from  a  very 
early  date,  they  adopted  a  uniform  system  of  education ;  whether  tbat  education 
touched  upon  hbtory,  joetry,  or  politics,  it  was  really  uniformly  of  a  high  moral 
ciiaFacter.    Ilva  books  which  were  collected  and  re-cditcd  by  Confucius  and  which 


456     CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCIAL  ASPECTS— DlSCtfSSlOK. 

had  been  the  biickbono  of  Chinese  education  ever  since,  whether  they  treated  of- 
metapLyaics,  or  histury,  or  of  administration,  or  of  ceremonial,  all  i^votcd  round 
high  moral  principles,  and  these  were  expounded  with  considerable  simplicity.    Mr. 
Baber  had  gone  further  tlian  he  (Sir  Thomas  Wade)  could  go  in  his  estimate  of  ihc 
influence  of  Buddhism  u]x>n  the  Chinese  mind.     In  his  opinion  the  tendency  of 
Buddhisra  in  Cliioa  was  to  emasculate  to  a  consideralde  extent  the  doctrioea  of 
ConfucianiBro.     Its  purpose  being  to  lead  men  to  avoid  that  which  was  evil,  it  had 
taught  men  to  avoid  everything  whatever,  or  to  attempt  to  do  so,  and  the  conise- 
quence  was  that  one  of  the  grand  desiderata  of  the  Chinese  mind   was  that  no 
mischief  should  come  nigh  tu  him,  that  he  should  lead  a  sort  of  happy-go>lucky 
life  and  nithcr  desist  from  all  lalxmr,  than  come  in  the  way  of  any  harm.    The  chief 
blessings  were  longevity,  riches,  completion  of  the  number  of  their  days,  and  freedom 
from  everything  that  would  trouble  them.     He  attributed  to  this  latter  the  gnat 
tendency  of  the  Chinese  to  opium-smoking.     It  might  be  thought  that  that  wa«  an 
extraordinary   leap  to  a  conclusion,  but  what  endeared  the  opium  pipe  to  th« 
Chinaman  was  the  certainty  it  aQ'ordjed  him  that  he  would  put  away  all  discomfort, 
lie  quilo  agreed  with  Mr,  Baber  that  the  commercial  prospects  in  the  north^wert 
corner  of  Yuo-nan  were  exceedingly  small.     Yun-nan  was  a  large  conglomeration  of 
highlands  which  had  of  late  been  afllicted  by  a  rebellion  which  was  not,  in  any 
respect,  an  ofiFshoot  of  the  other,  and  he  had  no  expectation  whatever  that  any 
commercial  advantages  could  soon  arise  from  communication  with  that  province. 
The  entrances  from  the  west  side  into  Yun-nan  were  tliose  which  were  genenlly 
sptj^ktu  of,  but  there  was  a  way  across  the  mountains  from  the  north-west  corner  of 
the  provinces,  known  as  the  "Iron  Gate,"  certainly  deserving  of  attention  in  the 
interest  of  geography  if  not  of  commerce.     It  was  about  150  miles,  as  the  crow 
flies,  from  Sadiya,  and  was  the  point  for  which  Mr.  Cooper  started  in  1867.    Mr. 
Cooper  made  all  his  arrangements  to  go  in  company  with  a  Bomish  mission,  hot 
there  was  some  disagreement,  and  he  eventually  went  oil"  u|)on  the  old  beaten  track. 
He  hoped  tbat  cither  Mr.  Colquhoun,  or  some  other  enterpriaing  member  of  the 
Society,  would  find  time  to  follow  up  that  route. 

Colonel  Y^ULE  said  that  the  anecdote  which  Mr.  Baber  had  related  of  tlio 
question  put  to  him  by  a  Chinese  girl  whether  he  was  a  Pi  or  a  Tan  might  seem 
eccentric  and  absurd  to  them  ;  but  if  200  years  ago  a  Chinese  Mr.  Baber  had  been 
giving  an  account  of  a  visit  to  England  before  a  Chinese  geographical  society,  he  might 
have  said  that  ho  had  been  sisked,  "  Are  you  a  Whig  or  a  Tory  ?"  Probably  no  dic- 
tionary then  existing  would  have  enabled  him  to  understand  what  the  terms  meant — 
they  were  quite  as  eccentric  in  origin  as  Pi  and  Tan ;  but  possibly  he  might  have 
found  out  that  the  word  "Whig"  meant  "sour  whey,"  and  "Tory"  "an  Irish 
brigand*'  1  The  want  of  homogeneity  in  the  Chines©  empire  was  very  much  the  same 
thing  as  was  seen  in  India.  India,  like  China,  was  regarded  as  an  unity,  but  the 
fact  was  that  there  was  even  less  homogeneity  there  than  in  China ;  still  there  was 
a  certain  Hindn  influence  difficult  to  define,  which  had  given  the  whole  country 
a  certain  character  of  unity,  and  no  doubt  the  ease  in  China  was  much  the  same ; 
only  the  unifying  social  iufluencei  in  China  had  more  of  a  political  tinge,  and  in  India 
more  of  a  religious  tinge.  Mr,  Baber  had  spoken  of  the  impossibility  of  conveying 
the  doctrines  of  Christianity  in  the  Chinese  language,  but,  be  that  as  it  might,  no  one 
conld  read  the  account  uf  missions  in  Che-kiang  by  the  sijeaker's  friend  Bishop 
Moule  without  feeling  that  there  was  a  heart  in  the  Chinaman  that  was  capable  of 
accepting  and  imbibing  Christianity  in  all  its  essential  aspects. 

Mr.  Colquhoun  said  the  bright  and  valuable  paper  read  that  evening  brought 

out  with  great  vividness — aa  whatever  Mr.  Baber  had  to  tell  us  always  did much 

new  mformation  regarding  China.    Jujstice  had  been  done  by  other  speakers  to  the 


I 


I 


CHINA,  IN  SOME  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  AND  SOCUL  ASPECTS— DISCUSSION.     457 


general  value  of  the  paper.  As  a  traveller  recently  returoed  from  Western  China, 
ifthere  be  traversed  tlie  sarao  grouud  aa  Mr.  Babcr»  JVoin  Tiili  to  Manwyne,  he  could 
K-ar  testimony  to  the  accuracy  of  Mr.  Baber  b  observations.  The  tew  remarks  he 
had  U)  make  would  be  restricted  to  the  question  of  the  development  of  our  trade 
with  South  Yun-oan  and  the  Shan  country,  Tlie  information  gnined  on  his  late 
journey  enabled  him  to  assure  Mr.  Baber  that  South-west  and  Ceulral  Yun-nan 
would  amply  rejtfiy  any  efforts  which  wo  may  make  towanla  trade  extension. 
It  would  com[»are  favourably  with  Burma,  which  ha<l  proved  such  a  fertile  field 

I  for  our  trade.  Tbe  soil  is  not  only  rich,,  but  the  mineral  wtalth  U  great.  The 
population  is  greater  than  exists  in  British  Buniia  evtn  to-day.  Yun-nan,  like 
the  Shan  country,  owing  to  the  want  uf  all  communications,  is  vcritabty  a  **cut- 
oflf"  region.  The  great  rivers  whicli  intersect  it  are  iropraclicablo,  and  the  only 
way  to  get  at  it  is  by  means  of  a  railway.     The  Americans  have  the  courage  of 

Itbi'ir  upiuions  in  tbe  matter  of  rail  communication,  and  in  face  of  Iho  thousands 
and  thousands  oi  miles  of  mil  which  they  are  laying  down  in  Mexico  and  clsc- 
vpliuro,  surely  a  line  v[  under  <»00  milts  is  uo  very  wonderful  undertaking.  Once 
connect  the  South  Cliina  l>or(ler  with  British  Bunna  and  Siam,  create  an  external 
demand,  and  not  only  will  tljc  natural  protluctiona  of  the  country  at  once 
rapidly  increase,  but  liriiish  goods — now  found  only  hero  and  there  iu  small 
quantities — will  be  tliscovrred  for  sale  everywhere.      He  quite  a;:reed  with  Mr. 

■  Baber  that  the  .iipproach  to  South-west  China  is  from  British  Burma,  through 
the  Shan  country.  Ue  would  here  point  out  the  large  extent  of  the  region  in- 
habited by  the  Shans.  It  includes  the  whole  of  Indo-China  lying  to  the  8«^uth  of 
Tun-nan,  bounded  on  the  west  and  east  by  the  Burmah  and  Anam  main  rawses  of 

■  mountains.     It  extends  over  no  kss  than  310,000  square  miles,  of  which  80,000 
l)olong  to  the  Independont  Slian  country  and  2'>0,000  to  the  territories  of  Siam. 
Little  is  known  regardiug  the  gri-uter  part  of  this  region.     In  the  Indeijendcut  Shan 
country  there  are  probably  ut  least  three  miliiuu  inhabitants.     The  Siamese  reconla 
six  million  as  the  number  of  able-lxHlied  men  in  their  territory;  but  this, 
iing  to  Bishop  Pallcgoix  and  51.  Mouhot,  does  not  include  cither  old  men, 
B,  or  children.     If  an  f>]>iuion  can  be  founded  upon  the  Siamese  census,  the 
ation  would  be  probably  some  30  millions.     Thl:«,  no  doubt,  is  in  excess  of  the 
real  facts.     That  the  conutry  is  not  sparsely  peoplal,  Ijowcver — even  in  the  less 
fertile  portions — appears  from  the  narrative  of  M.  Mouhot's  journey.     He  tells  us 
that  one  i)rovince,  vi«.  Korat,  alone  contains,  l^esitles  a  number  of  villages,  eleven 
^^lowus,  some  of  which  have  50  or  60,000  inliabitants,  and  in  a  stretch  of  200  miles 
^Vtorth  of  Komt  he  jiassed  sixty  villages  and  six  towns.      The  country  examined  by 
Mr.  Baber  in  North  and  West  Yun-nan  is  very  diflercnt,  as  pointed  out  by  him 
^.(Mr.  Colquhouu)  before  this  Society,  and  more  fully  in  his  work  'Across  Chryse,* 
HB-oin  the  central  and  south-west  jwrtions  of  Yun-nan.     In  opening  up  the  Slian 
^fconntry  and  North  Siam  by  means  of  a  railway  we  slmll  reach  the  richest  jmrt  ol 
^nfun-non,  jwoplcd  mainly  by  the  Shan  people,  a  friendly,  industriuus,  civilised,  and 
lettered  race.     This  Shau  highway  to  China  has  the  immense  advantage  of  passing 
through  a  country  wlmtc  inhabilanta  are  not  only  friendly  but  who  are  "a  race  of 
illars."    The  restdis  obfaintd  in  Burmah  encourage  ua  reasonably  to  hope  for 
tery  great  results  in  the  Shan  country. 

The  President,  in  proposing  a  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr.  Baber,  said  that  Cliina 

I  done  a  wonderful  work  in  conquering  and  assimilating  various  regions  within 

(lich  its  population  was  jtlaced  out,  bat  it  appeared  to  be  singularly  deficient  in 

he  power  of  jiropagating  Its  iufluence  elsewhere.     As  soon  as  its  people  emigrated 

hey  simply  l>ecame  the  workpeople  of  others,  and  carried  with  them  no  intellfctual 

moral  iofluence.     It  seemed  as  if  they  were  d'^orard  to  slagnate,  and  although 

No.  Vni.— Aug.  1883.]  2  h 


458     A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSS.VlfKDES  TO  THE  RIVER  GUNL^NK,  S.W.  AFRICA. 

Conruciiia  miglit  have  been  ft  groat  maQ,  ho  did  not  exercise  ad  iofluence  which, 
in  the  worda  of  a  previous  speaker,  "  authors  of  other  religions  might  envy/*  bcc»Qi» 
bis  philosophy  had  proiluced  the  ftbsoluto  stagnation  of  upwards  of  260  milliont  of 
people.  The  chnracteristtcs  of  those  people  appeared  to  be  stereotyped,  and  perhaps 
it  u*fts  fortunate  fur  the  rest  nf  the  world  that  such  was  the  case ;  for  what  woold 
happen  if  those  inhabiting  China  were  endowed  with  the  Fame  spirit  of  nmbition 
and  progr«^ss  as  the  36  millions  of  the  British  Islands,  th«  inhabitants  of  which  ruleti 
over  300  millions  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  and  gradually  introduced  among  them 
the  influences  of  European  civilisation  ? 


A  Journey  from  Momtmedes  lo  (he  liiver  Cmiene,  S.W.  Africa, 
By  the  Earl  of  Mayo. 

(Read  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  June  lltli,  188:K) 
Map,  p,  504. 

I  LFrrr  Liverpool  in  s,s,  Bcnguella  on  tho  27th  of  June,  1882.  Mr.  H.'' 
Johaston  was  with  mo,  and  my  servant,  Paul  Kelly.  We  arrived  at 
St.  Paul  dcj  Loanda,  the  ctipital  of  Angola,  on  June  9th,  and  found  we 
woro  too  lato  to  catoh  the  Portuguese  steamer  going  south  to  Moaa- 
medes ;  but  through  the  kindness  of  the  Admiralty  at  homo,  I  wiw 
enabled  to  get  a  pjisaage  in  IJ.M.S.  BamUer,  and  on  Juno  22nd  wp 
dropped  anchor  in  Little  Fish  Hay,  off  Mi->8samodeB.  Mossaraedea  is 
a  pretty  little  town,  built  of  Tvhite  stone,  on  the  shores  of  the  bay,  with 
an  esplanade  of  palra-trces  running  along  in  front  of  the  houses.  The 
country  to  tho  cast  and  simth  is  a  complete  desert.  We  found  tb»t 
waggons  had  come  Hiyvrn  to  meet  the  Portugucso  stoartier  that  had 
arrived  hero  from  Lialinn  on  the  8th,  but  had  again  gone  up  the  country; 
8o  hero  wo  were,  stranded  on  the  coast,  with  no  possible  means  of  reaching, 
except  by  walking,  tho  new  Boer  settlement  Humpata,  which  I  intended 
to  make  my  pied-tt-trrre.  That  very  afternoon  I  despatched  letters  to 
Uumpata  to  throe  people  there,  entreating  them  to  send  down 
to  take  us  into  the  interior,  with  our  goods  and  baggage. 

"While  waiting  for  our  means  of  starting  into  tho  interior  we  mad^s* 
little  trip  to  tho  river  Bcro,  lying  north  of  llossanicdes,  the  valley  of 
which  is  most  fertile,  supplying  Mossamedes  with  fruit  and  vegetables, 
cotton,  Indian  com,  btmauas,  sugar-cane,  casaada.  oranges,  ttc.  We  only 
stayed  one  night  in  the  valley  of  Bero,  whore  we  were  most  hospitably 
entertained  at  a  Portuguese  fazenda. 

After  this,  as  there  was  no  chance  of  tho  waggons  coming  down  yet 
a  while,  wo  decided  to  make  a  journey  to  tho  river  Coroca,  which  lies 
south  of  Mossamedes,  the  route  heiug  along  the  coast.  Accordingly, 
having  borrowed  a  small  bullock -cart  and  hired  ^ix  oxen,  on  tho  27th 
June,  at  a  quarter  past  two  in  the  afternoon,  wc  started. 


A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUN&E,  S.W.  AFRICA.     459 


Turning  our  backs  on  tho  little  town  of  MoBsaraedes,  we  crossed  the 

lleyel  tract  of  desert,  and  ascending  the  high  ground  reached  an  open 

||»lateau.    The  route  then  lay  across  a  dry  stony  tract,  and  the  course 

1  nearly  due  south.     One  first  crosses  a  plain  covered  with  prickly 

euphorbia  of  stunted  growth,  and  further  on,  as  it  liecomes  more  arid  and 

more  desolate,  t|uantitie8  of  that  extraordinary  plant,  the  Welwitschia, 

I  are  scenj  and  a  few  tufts  of  scorched  grass.     During  tho  march  there 

[were  no  auiuials  noticed  ;  perhaps  a  black  and  white  crow  or  a  lark  might 

i,Acro6S  the  track ;  all  else  was  desolation. 

Te  travelled  all  night,  Avalking,  and  riding  by  turns  in  the  little 
illock-cart,  which  .Flted  one's  bones  most  dreadfully,  and  thu  morning 
of  the  28th  June  still  found  us  plodding  over  the  desert.  Before  the  sun 
rose,  the  whole  landscape  was  enveloped  in  cadmho  or  mist,  which  is 

I  to  peculiar  to  these  latitudes.  The  mountains  of  the  Serra  de  Chella 
might  be  scon  far  away  in  the  east. 
The  route  on  the  28th  was  diversified  by  crossing  a  few  dry  water- 
courses, and  tho  ground  gradually  fell  imtil  we  entered  a  narrow  gorge, 
which  was  desolato,  sandy,  and  arid.  About  two  o*clock  in  the  day  we 
came  across  the  dry  lied  of  a  lagoou,  a  portion  of  which  to  the  we^t  of 

I  our  route  was  tilled  with  water,  with  a  house  on  tho  far  side ;  this  was 
one  of  the  farms  on  the  river  Coroca.  Tho  day  ended  by  my  going  to  one 
farm  and  my  companion,  Johnston,  to  another.  We  had  been  marching 
from  half-post  two  one  day  until  sunset  the  next— a  terribly  fatiguing 
journey,  with  little  or  no  rest  in  the  jolting  cart. 

No  water  is  procurable  on  the  route  between  Mossamedes  and  the 
OoTOCft  for  either  man  or  beast,  nor  is  any  fodder  to  bo  obtained  during 
the  dry  seafion.  There  is  a  shorter  route  closer  to  tho  sea-shore,  but  the 
sand  is  too  heavy  for  waggons.  The  river  Coroca,  rm  which  the  farms 
are  sitnatod,  rises  in  the  spurs  ftf  the  Sena  do  Chella,  and  hero  takes  a 
sudden  bend  to  the  north,  afterwards  flowing  nearly  duo  west  to  the 
sea,  which,  in  a  straight  line  from  the  farm  at  which  I  stayed,  is  about 
14  or  15  English  statute  miles.  We  used  to  got  fresh  fish  brought 
up  from  the  sea,  at  Porto  Alexandre,  by  the  Croque  natives,  for  our 
breakfast. 

There  is  a  lagoon,  lying  east  and  west,  about  two  miles  in  length, 
to  the  fazenda  SSo  Jolo  do  Sul.      It  has  not  been   marked   in 
ay  former  maps,  although  it  has  been  known  to  the  Portnguoso  for 
oentaries.      Of  course  this  lagoon,  which  is  suppHed  by  springs,  and 

I  never  dries  up,  plays  a  very  imptirtant  jiart  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
Coroca  farms.  It  is  not  the  river  Coroca  itself  which  supplies  the  water 
to  the  farms,  but  the  lagoon,  for  during  the  dry  season  the  Coroca  is 
simply  a  sandy  bed,  with  no  water  visible.  I  fixed  tho  position  of  tho 
Fazenda  Stlo  Joio  do  Sul,  lat  15°  54'  S.,  long.  12"  4'  E.,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  Coroca,  and  find  it  agrees  with  Capello  and  Ivens.    Except 


2  H  2 


460     A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUN^NE,  S.W.  AKUICA. 

around  tho  lagoon,  all  is  a  desert.     This  is  indeed  a  sandy  and  dry 

country.  Herds  of  zebra  are  found  somo  15  miles  away;  while  here  I 
shot  a  springbok^  ducks  and  teal  on  the  lake,  purple  porphyrio  and 
jacana,  and  I  saw  numbers  of  grey  geese.  We  returned  to  MoesameJea 
by  the  samo  route^  and  scarcely  half  an  hour's  walk  from  Moeaamedea 
I  saw  five  springbok  (^Gazella  eiichore). 

On  July  tho  8th  the  three  waggons  I  had  been  waiting  for  arrived 
from  Capangombe,  and  on  tho  9th  we  started  for  Hurapata,  via  Capan^ 
gomhe  and  tho  Sierra  de  Cholla.  The  tribe  that  people  this  region,  that 
is  from  Mossamedes  to  Capangombe,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  de  Chella, 
are  Mundonibes.  They  have  a  language  of  their  own,  belonging  to  tho 
Bantu  family.  They  are  not  good  or  expert  hunters,  as  some  writer* 
have  described  them.  One  could  scarcely  call  a  man  a  good  hunter 
who  T1BC8  nothing  but  a  bow  and  an  arrow,  and  generally  misaee  his 
game.  They  are  large  cattle-keepers,  and  are  the  native  porters  who 
carry  travellei-s'  luggage  as  far  as  the  top  of  the  Sierra  de  Chella,  above 
Capangombe. 

Wo  trekked  from  the  river  Bcro,  half  a  mile  from  Mossamedes,  where 
tho  oxen  were,  at  5.30  a.m.  on  the  10th.  The  main  road  turns  due  east 
and  ascends  a  sandy  hilly  voldt.  There  is  no  watrr  until  one  re-achcii 
Giraul ;  then  the  oxen  have  to  bo  driven  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the 
water.  After  leaving  Giraul,  there  is  an  ascent  by  a  well  engineered 
winding  road  ;  one  indeed  might  imagine  oneself  on  one  of  the  post  roada 
on  the  Alps.  The  perpendicular  faces  of  the  high  masses  are  covered  with 
an  efiBorescence  of  almost  pure  sulphate  of  magnesia.  This  formation  iii 
succeeded  by  massive  basalt.  This  naiTow  slip  of  basalt  is  followed  by 
quartzoso  rock.  This  cbanges  to  quartuoae  granite,  and  in  some  places 
to  fine-grained  porphyry.  At  this  time  of  the  year  but  little  vegetation 
was  to  be  seen,  and  all  the  landsciipe  had  a  burnt  and  ciudery  appearance. 
After  the  ascent  from  Giraul,  one  arrives  at  the  second  plateau.  A  large 
plain  lies  in  front  covered  Avith  granite  boulders.  The  granite  for 
tion  of  this  district  is  very  peculiar. 

The  next  stop  is  Pedra  Grande,  so  called  from  a  large  peaked  mono 
of  solid  granite.  On  tho  left-hand  bide  of  the  road  deep  cavities 
massive  rock  hold  water  during  most  of  the  dry  season,  but  at  this 
time  of  the  year  there  was  not  a  drop,  and  a  deserted,  rooflesB  hoooB 
lent  a  ghastly  appearance  to  the  desolate  scene. 

In  African  travel  it  must  be  remembered  thiit  where  there  is  no 
water  one  has  to  travel  continuously,  and  tho  big  waggon  and  tired 
oxen  go  lumbering  and  jolting  along.  We  rested  here  and  cooked  some 
food  in  the  deserted  house,  and  then  on  again  to  Capangombe. 

After  lea\'ing  Pedra  Grande,  the  road  winds  among  rocky  hilU. 
More  vegetation  is  mot  with,  and  a  more  mountainous  country  is  passed; 
numbers  of  Kpringbok  were  seen,  some  standing  on  their  hind  legs, 
cropping   the    short   umbrella-shaped   mimosa    hushes.     Pedra    Provi- 


A  JOURNETT  FROM  MOSSAMEDLS  TO  THE  RIVER  CONENE,  S.W.  AFRICA.     461 

denda  is  passed,  and  in  the  cleft  of  a  rook,  on  the  right  of  the  road,  good 
fresh  water  is  found,  but  it  is  so  deep  down  and  the  aperture  is  so  small 
that  the  oxen  cannot  get  at  it. 

Our  next  stop  is  at  the  Munhino.  Id  this  district  there  are  some  few 
farms  on  each  side  of  the  road,  and  in  fact  we  are  in  the  land  of  cotton 
and  cultivation.  The  vegetation  that  fringes  the  river  Jhmhino,  which 
during  the  dry  season  is  simply  a  streamlet,  is  dense,  and  game  is 
abundant.  Koodoo  (Strejmceros  kudu)  and  other  antelopes  are  found.  In 
the  rainy  season,  elephants  are  sometimes  seen. 

At  last,  on  July  13th,  we  reached  Capangombe.  There  is  a  small 
Portuguese  fort  here,  which  ia  simply  a  barrack  square  surrounded  by 
a  wall ;  there  is  a  store  with  little  in  it,  and  the  Portuguese  who  keeps 
the  store  contracted  to  send  our  luggage  by  means  of  the  Mundombes 
to  the  top  of  the  mountain — a  labour  which  we  leariifd  would  take 
some  seven  days.  The  Serra  de  Chella  now  rose  straight  befur©  ua, 
and  in  the  distance,  nearly  due  east  from  the  fort,  we  could  see  the 
gorge  in  the  mountain  up  which  winds  the  path. 

I  walked  up  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  and  camped,  in  order  to 
;  receive  over  the  baggage  as  the  Muudorabes  day  by  day  toiled  up  with 
it.  I  may  mention  that  Capangombe  is  an  unhealthy  place  ;  the  Boers 
who  visit  it  as  a  rule  get  fever.  My  servant  Kelly  was  very  bad  with 
it  some  six  days.  The  thermometer  at  3  p.m.  at  Capangombe  stood  at 
77^**  and  at  night  49°  Fahr. 

Erickson's  Camp  is  the  Boer  name  for  the  camping-place  at  the  top 
of  the  Serra  do  Chella ;  I  ma»le  its  altitude  5400  feet  above  the  sea  ;  the 
thermometer  marked  71**  during  day,  and  during  the  night  38^*^  Fahr. 
This  is  the  mean  of  different  readings.  I  fixed  the  position  of  this  place 
as  in  lat.  15''  8'  S.,  long.  13°  40'  E.  I  passed  a  dull  week  here,  being 
most  of  the  time  completely  alone.  The  lowest  reading  registered  while 
in  South  Africa  was  at  this  camp  on  July  27th,  viz.  31".  There  was  a 
frosty  rime  on  all  the  baggage  piled  round  the  little  tent  when  I  woko 
in  the  morning.     I  saw  numbers  uf  francolin  partridge  here. 

1  passed  from  Capangombe  to  the  summit  of  the  Chella  three  times. 
The  views  were  truly  splendid.  After  leaving  my  little  camping-place, 
the  winding  rocky  path  discovers  at  a  sharp  tarn  the  second  plateau 
lying  at  one's  fent  and  visible  through  the  high  bluffs  that  form  the 
practicable  gorge  in  the  mountains.  The  little  barrack  square  at 
Capangombe  is  easily  discernible  and  the  hot  mist  veiling  the  laud- 
scape  lends  distance  to  the  outline  of  the  hills  and  mountains  stretching 
towards  Pedra  Grande.  The  path  down  is  wet  with  a  mountain  stream 
I  in  which  water-cress  grows  in  abundance,  birds  are  chattering  overy- 
'  where,  before  the  morning  sun  has  lighted  up  the  gorge.  The  box  tree 
is  found  at  this  high  altitude,  and  also  buttercups;  and  as  one  desoends, 
a  little  waterfall,  to  the  right  of  the  path,  tumbles  over  the  rooks  amidst 
long  creepers  and  dense  vegetation.     Rubber  gum  of  a  poor  description 


462     A  JOURNEY  KttOM  M0S5AMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNENE,  S,W. 

is  gathered  in  the  little  glen  wliicli  ia  now  roached.  Thia  Talley  w 
Bome  two  miles  long  and  scarcely  half  a  iiiilo  broad  from  cliff  to  cliff; 
.  about  the  centre  of  it  is  a  small  farmBtead  called  Chella,  where  oxcello&t 
bananas,  and  the  best  oranges  in  the  province  of  Mossamedes  tte 
grown  ;  they  can  be  had  for  the  a«king. 

Passing  through  this  fertile  spot  I  came  upon  a  rocky  path  whero 
a  flock  of  pluto  monkeys  were  seen  ecnttliiig  away  to  the  dense  biwh, 
and  I  very  nearly  stepped  on  an  African  cobra,  which  raised  ita  hooded 
crest  and  hissed  and  glided  away.  On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  gpt^ 
one  finds  the  farm  of  Bniquo,  whero  cotton  is  chiefly  grown,  after  which 
a  walk  along  the  dusty  waggon  road  through  a  forest  of  trees,  and 
the  wall  of  the  barrack  of  Capangomlio  futon  conies  in  sight. 

The  waggons  that  had  brought  us  from  MossamedcB  remained  at  th« 
foot  of  the  mountains.  The  oxen  were  driven  up  to  Ilumpata,  and  on 
July  27th  appeared  again  with  three  other  waggons.  We  reached 
Humpata  from  Erickson'a  Camp  about  11  at  night,  the  disselboom  or 
pole  of  ono  of  the  waggons  breaking  en  rouie,  delaying  us.  The  cost  of 
bringing  our  goods  from  Mossamcdes  to  Capangombe,  all  included,  wa« 
45f.     No  oxen  died  on  this  route  as  they  very  often  do. 

Humpata,  the  new  Boer  settlement,  had  been  established  some  eigh- 
teen months  when  I  arrived.  The  Boers,  with  their  wives,  children,  and 
cattle,  bad  trekked  from  Pretoria  in  the  Transvaal,  and  took  seven 
years*  wandering  to  reach  this  place.  They  were  already  living  in 
comfortable  little  thatched  cottages,  with  stone  and  mud  walls,  and 
all  wore  most  kind,  obliging,  and  hospitable.  Taking  them  all  round,  a 
liner  set  of  mon  I  had  rarely  seen  ;  without  doxibt,  during  that  terrible 
seven  years' journey  it  was  a  case  of  the  survival  of  the  fittest.  The 
whole  account,  written  by  Mr.  W.  W.  Jordan,  is  given  from  a  Cape 
journal  in  my  report  on  Ovampoland,  now  in  this  Society's  Library. 
The  little  cottages  at  Ilnnipata  aro  scattered  about  on  rolling  downs. 
To  the  north  mountains  rise  up,  and  to  the  south  the  ground  gradually 
falls  till  near  Huilla,  which  is  on  the  second  plateau.  The  temperatnro 
is  the  same  nearly  the  whole  year  round,  and  a  healthier  place  I 
cannot  well  imagine.  Two  streams  water  the  many  Boer  farms  lying 
around,  and  a  cleverly  constructed  canal  with  many  branches  brings 
water  within  reach  of  all  the  cottages  and  gardens. 

On  July  Slfit  wo  left  Humpata  for  the  river  Cunene.  Tho  firet  thing 
that  happened  was  that  one  of  the  waggons  stuck  in  a  muddy  irrigation 
channel  just  outside  Uumpata;  wo  had  to  dig  it  out.  We  reached 
Hnilla  the  next  day.  It  is  a  Portuguese  military  station  situated  in  a 
fertile  valley  with  a  muddy  and  deep  stream  running  down  it ;  the 
position  ia  fixed  by  iJufour  in  IS'^  2'  4"  IS.  lat.  This  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Mission,  and  here  I  had  the  pleasui-©  of  meeting 
Pere  Duparquot,  who  has  given  to  the  world  so  much  information  on 
the  river  Okavango  and  the  tribes  of  Uvami>idand.     The  Mission  at 


A  JOUBNEY  FROM  IIOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNENE,  S.W.  AFRICA.     4G3 


ux, 


■  iflt 


Huilla  is  flourishing ;  tliey  are  building  a  college  for  pupils  from  St. 
Paul  do  Loauda,  and  nwilla  is  a  liealtby  and  pleasant  place  to  reside 
m.  The  tribes  that  inhabit  the  country  around  Hmnpata,  Huilla,  and 
ree  days  east  of  Huilla,  Jau,  Quita,  and  Ilahe,  are  Munhanecas  and 
Qaipongos.  They  are  great  robbers^  and  speak  a  dialect  belonging  to  the 
Bantu  family.  Thoy  are  cultivators,  tilling  the  soil  in  common;  they 
keep  some  cattle^  and  move  the  site  of  their  villages  and  cultivation 
every  now  and  then  as  the  ground  becomes  poor  and  worked  out.  They 
are  armed  with  the  usual  poisoned  arrows,  asseguit^,  and  knobkerries, 
and  those  that  can  afford  it  have  a  Portugucae  flint  musket,  the  usual 
common  trade  pattern.  They  are  dirty,  and  I  should  say  never  wash 
emselvcs;  much  like  the  oxen  they  tend,  they  are  wanting  in  either 
^eat  virtues  or  excessive  vice.  In  fact,  I  may  s.iy  tliat  these  character- 
istics apply  to  all  the  tribes  I  met  in  this  my  lirst  journey  in  South- 
'ViBteru  Africa. 

The  Portuguese  militirj'  post  at  Huilla  is  manned  by  twenty-iivo 
black  soldiers,  natives  of  Loauda.  All  the  soldiers  are  drawn  from  that 
part  of  Portugal's  colonies,  and  they  ruu  away  when  a  gun  is  pointed  at 
them.  Since  the  Boers  have  come  into  the  country  all  has  been  quiet. 
There  really  was  not  nuiuh  lighting  or  war  before  they  came.  There 
are  two  small  avenues  of  eucalyptus  trees  at  Huilla  planted  by  the 
Portuguese, 

On  Aug.  '2nd  wo  left  Huilla  and  stopped  at  the  Quinpampanini  river, 
called  by  the  Boers  Commandant's  Drift.  This  is  the  last  Portuguese 
farm  before  reaching  Huml>u  near  the  Cunene.  All  now  is  bush,  forest, 
mountains,  and  native  vilhiges.  The  road  descends  from  Huilla,  and 
winds  through  a  forest  of  many  species  of  wild  fig-tree.  At  Comman- 
dant's Drift,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  there  is  a  dense  bush  forest 
stretching  south.  This  stream  lower  down  is  called  by  the  Boers  the 
Klloney  River,  and  they  say  numbers  of  rhinoceroses  are  found  in  tho 
Blieighljourhood.  I  saw  koodcK),  eland,  du^kerbuck,  and  waterbuck. 
There  are  small  crocodiles  in  the  river,  the  water  of  which  is  beauti- 
fully clear,  running  over  a  rocky  bottom.  Bagi-us  and  small  fish 
abound  in  this  stream.  I  consider  this  place  to  bo  eminently  fitted 
for  a  permanent  camp  during  tho  dry  season.  Tho  Portuguese  farmer 
supplies  excellent  vegetables,  eggs,  and  fowls,  and  game  on  the  river 
bank  and  down  the  river  is  fairly  j>lentiful. 

■  On  Aug.  6th  we  left,  travelling  on  through  tlic  bush  till  we  reached 
the  open  district  of  Hahe,  a  rich  corn  country.  Hero  wo  laid  in  a  store 
for  my  two  mares.  Zebra  became  plentiful  after  passing  the  cultivated 
tract.  We  still  travelled  on  through  mopani  scrub  and  over  sandj',  stony 
BoiL  We  had  some  little  sport,  and  a  Boer  who  was  wuth  us  shot  a 
zebra  near  a  halting-place  which  tho  Dutch  call  Palmett  Fountain. 

On  Aug.  H  wo  were  approaching  again  the  same  river,  called  at  this 
sirt  tho  Gumbos  river.     At  the  Drift  the  river  is  about  20  feet  wide  and 


464     A  JOL'RXEV  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  TUE  RIVKR  CL'XEN^  S.W,  AFRICA. 

4  foet  G  inches  deep  during  tha  dry  season.  I  saw  a  largo  herd  of  eUml 
(Orcas  Canna)  on  the  marshy  plain  through  wLieli  the  river  wiuda,  bttt 
did  not  get  one.  A  most  beautiful  group  of  very  large  mimosii  trees, 
one  of  the  many  species  found  in  Afriwi,  stand  on  each  side  of  the  track 
before  coming  on  to  this  plain.     The  next  day  I  shot  an  eland, 

Oa  Aug.  15th  we  moved  along  the  waggon  truck,  through  leaf- 
less mopani  ecnih.  We  stopped  for  breakfast  in  a  fit'ld  of  Indian  otirn, 
cultivation  having  commenced  again,  Mr.  Johnston  and  the  Boer  rode  to 
Gambos  Fort,  a  Portugueso  military  stockade  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
little  river  which  wo  have  iic^vor  been  far  from  since  leaving  Huilla. 
After  leaving  the  vicinity  of  Gambos  Fort  we  passed  a  conical  shaped 
rocky  hill  covered  with  busli,  called  by  the  natives  Otchivemba  Mountain. 
It  stands  west  of  the  track,  between  the  river  and  the  road,  as  one 
goes  south.  This  mountain  is  a  great  landmark  coming  up  from  the 
Cunene,  and  is  seen  nearly  two  days'  journey  distant. 

On  August  18th,  haviug  ridden  on  in  front  of  the  waggons,  I  shot  two 
doe  impala  antelopes  (^pj/ceros  melampus),  I  got  back  to  the  halting- 
place  after  dark,  and  us  the  Boer  advised  ]ne  not  to  fetch  the  meat  that 
night,  I  let  it  lie.  The  next  morning,  on  the  waggons  passing  the  spot, 
scarcely  a  vestige  of  tlie  antelopes  was  to  be  seen  ;  the  hyenas  and 
jackals  had  devoured  everything,  even  the  hoofs,  and  a  torn  ear  and  the 
trampled  s^ind  alone  showed  what  a  meal  they  must  have  had. 

On  the  2lBt  we  arrived  clofio  to  the  hunting-grouud.  A  number  of 
Boer  waggons  passed  us,  having  been  down  to  the  Cuuene  to  kill  hippo- 
potamus for  the  sake  of  their  fat,  which  they  make  soap  of.  On  thiiJ  day 
I  moved  on  to  Owithya,  which  was  to  be  my  permanent  camp  during 
the  most  of  the  hunting  season.  All  the  country  on  leaving  the  river  ih 
excessively  dry  and  parched,  although  pools  and  pits  of  water  are 
scattered  about,  wliich  are  much  frequented  during  the  dry  season  by 
elephant  and  all  other  game.  On  the  22nd  I  shot  a  duikerbuck  antelope 
{CtphalopJiUs  mcrtjt'm) ;  both  this  and  the  steinbuck  {Na}H>trat)HS  tratjuluir) 
are  excellent  and  tender  meat,  l>iit  rather  dry  at  this  time  of  the  j'ear. 

In  one  of  the  pools  of  the  stream,  near  my  camp  at  Owithya,  I 
caught  two  Bagru  {Bat/ruii),  a  siluroid  fish  which  attains  in  the  large 
rivers  of  Afrira  a  huge  size,  sometimes  isix  feet  long.  One  of  those  I 
caught  weighed  J  lbs.  I  also  caught  a  nuralxjr  of  carp-like  fish,  about 
half  a  pound  each.  There  was  any  amount  of  game  in  this  country, 
which  stretches  towards  the  mountains,  a  continuation  of  the  SejTa  do 
Chclla.  I  killed  gii-affo,  kctodoo,  gnu,  duikerbuck,  steinbuok,  zebra, 
hyena,  Eoan  antelope,  wart-hog,  also  numbers  of  francolin,  guinea>fowl, 
and  sand-grouse.  Wo  heard  lions  roaring  at  night-time,  but  never  saw 
one. 

While  hero  I  made  a  trip  with  one  waggon  to  Fenter's  pits,  and  went 
out  shooting  with  his  sons;  they  killed  two  bull  elephants  the  m(»raijig 
of  the  day  I  joined  them.     This  country  is  sandy,  with  largo  patches  of 


A  JODRNEY  FROM  >IOSS.UIEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNENt,  S.W.  AFRICA.     465 


I 
I 

I 


I 
I 

I 


I 


mopani  bTisb.  Around  our  camp  were  numbers  of  baobab  trees,  and  a 
beautiful  grove  of  these  eoormous  and,  at  this  season,  leafless  giants  of 
the  forest  lay  duo  west  of  the  tent.  The  red  orb  of  the  setting  sun 
going  down  amongst  these  was  a  glorious  sight,  I  also  went  over  to 
Erickson's  carap ;  this  was  close  to  the  track  aud  tho  route  cut  by  my 
hunters  through  the  bush,  and  was  rocky  and  bad  travelling,  'i'hore 
are  water-pits  on  the  way,  where  one  stops  for  the  night.  I  found  two 
Englishmen  staj'ing  at  this  camp,  as  well  as  Albert  Erickson,  Mr.  Axel 
Erickson's  brother.  We  went  shooting  together,  and  exchanged  hospi- 
talities at  our  separate  camps ;  in  fact  it  was  a  very  pleasant  time.  Game 
was  in  abundance,  and  the  climate  very  healthy. 

This  is  the  first  year  anij  white  men  have  penetrated  into  this  district. 
The  tribe  inhabiting  the  part  near  the  mountains  are  Chibiquas ;  they 
are  essentially  hunters  and  cattle-keepers,  having  ctriginally  migrated 
some  ir»0  years  ago  from  south  of  the  CunOnc.  They  belong  to  the 
Daranra  race,  intermi-xed  with  Ovampos  and  other  tribes  before  men- 
tioned ;  and  they  speak  a  language  resembling  that  of  the  Ovampos. 

This  year  the  llottentots  made  a  raid  across  the  Cunune,  broke  up 
the  Chibitxuas'  stockaded  village,  and  now  this  latter  tribe  are  scattered 
about  among  the  villages  and  country  nearly  reaching  to  Oambos  fort, 
I  came  across  a  large  party  of  them  when  hunting ;  they  were  camped 
in  a  circle,  and  living  in  round  gipsy  huts  made  of  boughs  and  leaves, 
there  being  a  screen  of  the  same  materials  in  the  centre  of  the  encamp- 
ment, which  I  imagined  to  be  the  main  guard,  as  numbers  of  the  men's 
weapons  aud  poisoned  arrows  were  hung  up.  They  were  a  little  shy  of 
H  white  face  at  first,  but  my  Ovampo  bo}'  set  matters  right,  and  I  dis- 
mounted and  examined  their  impromptu  guard-room. 

They  had  some  very  curious  flat-headed  iron  instruments  with  which 
tho}-  prcnl  at  the  elephant,  severing  the  mueicles  above  the  hind  feet,  and 
so  bringing  the  l»casts  to  a  stand-still,  when  they  kill  thera  wilh  assegais. 
1  saw  no  firearms  of  any  description  amongst  them.  They  were  indeed 
the  aavage  pure  and  simple,  both  men  and  %vomen  wearing  beads  and 
tlic  usual  small  leather  apron  round  their  loins ;  beyond  this  they  had 
nothing  on.     The  men  were  fine-looking  fellows,  the  women  ugly. 

One  day,  when  at  Erickaon's  camp,  I  rode  over  to  Bird  Fountain 
and  climbed  np  a  rocky  coppie  or  hill,  to  see  the  view.  To  the  north  the 
mountains  of  the  Serra  de  Chella  stretched  far  away  towards  Bruquoand 
Capangombe ;  under  my  feet  lay  the  dense  and  thorny  African  bush,  with 
rocky  hills  cropping  up  here  and  there  to  the  west ;  and  on  my  left  the 
country  got  more  dry  and  desert-like,  and  the  flat-topped  hills,  so  peculiar 
to  the  sandy  district  near  the  eea-shoro,  were  visible.  It  was  the  first 
year  the  eyes  of  the  white  man  had  gazed  on  this  nnknown  country, 
the  home  of  the  elephant,  the  ostrich,  and  the  oryx.  All  the  landscape 
had  a  dry  and  parched  appearance. 

About  October  12th  we  had  our  first  thunder  shower,  signs  of  rains 


466     A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNE^i^  S.W.  AFRICA. 

beginning,  and  the  number  of  Hottentots  and  Griqua  Imntera  gathered 
round  my  camp  at  Owithya,  began  moving  away  to  snugger  qnarten. 
Most  of  thcBo  men  were  iu  Mr,  Axel  Erickson's  employ,  and  the  grsM 
being  good  and  water  plentiful  my  camp  this  year  wae  the  centre  of 
ijperationa  ;  at  one  time  there  were  nearly  two  hundred  white  men  and 
black,  their  wives  and  families  included. 

On  October  14th  the  Boer  appeared  from  Mossamcdes  with  my  mails, 
and  on  the  18th  we  started  for  Hurabe  and  the  river  Cunene,  recrossing 
the  little  river,  the  road  keeping  close  to  its  banks,  over  hard  and  dry 
ground  with  deep  cracks  on  its  face.  My  servant  killed  a  fine  specimen 
of  the  nhamha,  a  deadly  snake,  which  was  occupied  in  trying  to  slay  a 
small  squirrel  in  a  high  mimosa  tree. 

Before  reaching  Htimbo  we  passed  a  Portuguese  settler's  home ;  this 
district  is  thickly  inhabited  by  Ovampos,  who  are  little  diflereut  from 
those  living  south  of  the  Cunene ;  in  fact,  as  Pore  Duparquet  stated 
tp  me,  he  cannot  see  any  diflercnce  lietweon  the  tribes  near  the  north 
bank  of  the  Cunene  and  those  living  south  in  the  so-called  Ovampoland. 
I  have  seen  natives  from  the  south :  they  are  the  same  in  dress,  language, 
and  manners  and  customs.  These  North  Ovampos  speak  a  dialect  of  the 
Damara  language,  and  cullivate  each  hereditary  farm  separately  and  not 
in  common  like  the  Hahe  and  Huilla  natives;  they  will  not  willingly 
sell  their  land :  they  possess  plenty  of  cattle  and  goats,  and  take  care  of 
the  natural  fruit  trees  of  the  country,  which,  with  Indian  coru,  form  their 
staple  food.  Indian  corn  is  tJac  food  of  all  races  in  this  part  of  Africa. 
Boers,  and  the  poorer  Portuguese  eat  large  quantities  of  it.  Banatiafi 
and  oranges  are  a  cultivated  luxury,  and  the  poorer  natives  seldom  get 
meat,  except  as  hangers  on  to  a  European  camp,  where  they  become 
hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water  and  return  iu  a  short  time  to  their 
yillages  strong  and  well  loaded  with  the  dried  meat  of  antelojws, 
giraffes,  dc,  which  they  have  saved  up.  I  found  all  natives  during  my 
journey  quite  peaceable,  very  much  frightened  of  the  horses,  for  before 
the  Boers  came  into  the  country,  some  eighteen  montha  ago,  they  hod 
never  seen  a  horse :  a  mounted  man  makes  them  run  away,  but  they  are 
now  beginning  to  be  accustomed  to  these  animals,  especially  the  villagers 
living  near  the  waggon  track  in  which  wo  are  travelling,  and  which  is 
the  one  made  by  the  Boers  on  their  journey  from  the  Transvaal  to 
Humpata.  This  district  so  thickly  inhabited  is  covered  with  large 
baobab  trees. 

On  the  night  of  October  I'Jth,  by  the  light  of  the  full  moon,  we  druve 
our  waggous  into  Humbe  (fixed  by  Dufour  in  16°  60'  S.  lat.),  camping 
under  a  large  wild-fig  tree  in  a  mealio  field,  not  far  irom  the  Roman 
Catholic  mission-house.  The  next  day  I  went  to  see  Fathers  ITogau 
and  Lynch,  who  have  charge  here ;  they  were  much  pleased  to  get 
papers  and  news  from  England.  On  the  22ud  we  left  Humbe  to  go  up 
the  Cunene  towards  Ekamba,  for  hippopotamus  and  Lechwe  antelope 


MiKiamm  FKOM  MOSSAMRDES  to  THK  river  CUXENE,  S.>S'.  AFRICA.     467 

shootijig ;  we  travelled  by  raoonlight  and  caiupod  amidst  some  thorny 
rered  with  white  aweet-emelling  flowers  ;  there  were  little  or  no 
r-on  the  trees.  We  moved  on  th(*  next  day  to  a  long  narrow  laj^oon 
where  five  hippopotami  were  disjiorting  tliemselves.  I  shot  near  here 
two  largo  erested  cranes ;  they  were  excellent  eating.  Wo  travelled 
along  a  grafisy  plain  which  borders  the  banks  of  the  river,  which 
swarms  with  crocodiles,  and  is  abont  here  not  40  yards  wide.  During 
the  rainy  season  the  whole  of  this  plain  is  inundated,  the  high-water 
murk   being  clearly  discoroible  around  the  tnuiks  of  the  trees.     The 

I  waggon  track  keeps  close  to  the  thick  forest,  which  borders  the  plain 
and  runs  parallel  with  the  river.  On  lea\'ing  Ilurabe,  at  this  time  of 
the  year,  one  sees  vast  herds  of  native  cattle^  which  are  driven  from  the 
Tillages  situated  in  the  bush,  to  gra20  on  the  new  grass  which  is  now 
beginning  tu  spring  up.  There  are  inimbeis  of  pook  and  small  lagoons 
on  the  plain,  which  awarras  with  Egyptian  and  spur-winged  geese,  red- 
billed  teal,  duck,  blue  crane,  and  crested  crane.  After  leaving  the  cattle 
district,  herds  of  Lech  wo  antelope  (Cobus  Leehc)  are  seen;  this  rather 
rare  species  swims  like  water  rats  with  its  nose  just  above  water,  on  the 
least  alarm  mshing  into  the  thick  reeds  which  border  the  river  bank ; 
their  feet  arc  longer  than  those  of  the  impala,  and  they  are  considered 

I  a  much  shyer  animal ;  their  meat  is  good  eating.  I  shot  two  does  and 
two  bucks  while  on  the  Cunene,  and  unluckily  my  lx>ys  lost  the  fin© 
hums  of  the  buck  ;  I  brought  homo,  however,  three  skins  of  this 
beautiful  antelojKj.  One  of  the  two  hippopotami  which  I  shot  at  a 
lagoon  on  this  plain,  was  yoked  next  morning  to  a  full  span  of  oxen 

'  and  towed  ashore ;  tho  oxon  trekked  him  right  out  of  the  water,  the 
boys  shouting  and  sitting  on  the  huge  carcase  as  it  scraped  along  over 
tho  grass.  Tho  flesh  is  like  coarse  pttrk  and  the  fat  excellent.  The 
natives  of  tho  adjacent  village  of  Ovampos  had  a  great  feed  and  little 
was  left  for  vultures  or  jackals. 

The  l.lunene  is  a  much  smaller  river  than  many  would  imagine  from 
ita  appearance  on  the  map,  and  tho  reports  that  have  been  received  of  it. 
A  goo*l  deal  further  up  tlie  river  from  where  I  was,  Mr.  Jordan  informed 
mo  that  it  was  navigable,  but  at  the  place  where  I  saw  it,  and  at  that 
season,  it  certainly  was  not  navigable  for  large  boats.  At  ita  mouth 
there  is  a  bar,  which  totally  prevents  any  vessels  from  entering  the 
river.     In  fact,  a  roituguesu  naval  officer  who  was  employed  about  Hve 

I^ears  ago  in  exploring  tliat  part,  tohl  me  that  it  was  scarcely  passable 
on  a  plank.  Some  70  miles  al)ove  it.s  month  there  are  rapids,  I  might 
almost  say  catai'actH,  and  much  further  up  there  are  large  falls,  evidently 
where  the  river  pierces  the  continuation  of  the  SeiTa  de  Chella.  Little 
is  known  of  the  river  between  Ilumbe  and  ita  mouth.  The  Boers  have 
visited  this  part,  and  say  tliat  hippopotami  are  plcntifid,  and  elephants 
are  found  in  numbers  among  the  rocks  and  mountains  along  its  bunks. 
Hunters  this  year  penetrated  through  the  mountains  to  within  abuut 


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A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNluS^  S.W.  AFRICA.     469 

I  will  not  repeat  mjself  as  to  tJie  journey  back ;  suffice  it  to  say,  that 
two  hired  Ovampos  ran  away,  and  at  Gumbos  river  one  of  the  waggon 
boys  was  down  -w^th  bad  fever,  so  I  had  only  a  man  and  a  boy  to  drive 
two  span  of  oxen.  The  lion.s  got  in  amongst  the  oxen  one  night,  but 
the  boys  lighted  fires  and  drove  them  away. 

I  find  the  following  entry  in  my  journal :—"  Franz  still  ill. 
Shalck veldt,  my  head  waggon-driver,  says  he  feels  bad ;  if  he  goes  down 

)jwo  are  done  " ;  as  then  the  only  person  to  drive  and  tend  twenty-eight 
Dxen  would  have  been  a  boy  of  eighteen  (ITenry).  After  many 
delays  and  stoppages,  waggons  sticking,  and  then  having  to  bo  tin* 
loaded,  wet  nights,  and  damp  firewood,  we  reached  Commandant's 
Drift,  and  fresh  eggs  and  fresh  vegetables  were  indeed  a  great  luxury. 

»0n  our  arrival  at  Huilla  I  found  the  missionaries  had  nearly  com- 
pleted tlieir  college.  Some  eleven  or  twelve  pupils  have  already 
arrived  there  from  St.  Paul  do  Loanda.  The  bishop  of  Loanda  was 
shortly  expected. 

On  the  14th  Xovember,  after  being  drenched  throngh  and  through 
by  a  heavy  tropical  shower,  I  rode  up  to  Mr.  W.  W.  Jordan's  store  at 
Hnmf>ata.  I  was  glad  enough  to  get  back  to  a  house  and  some  little 
comforts,  in  fact  as  muuli  as  the  kimlly  Boers  and  their  wives  could 
oflfer  me.     The  waggons  arrived  the  next  day. 

My  journey  back  to  Munhino  from  Humpata  was  l)y  a  different  route, 
tlirough  the  wildest  part  of  lUe  mountaius.     A  fairly  engineered  road 

fpB  being  made  by  the  Portuguese  Government  for  the  use  of  the  Boers 
mud  their  waggons  when  going  to  the  coast.  This  new  route  as  far  as 
Munhino  has  abundance  of  water  and  grass  for  oxen,  cattle,  and  horses, 
all  of  the  best  description.  Game  is  not  plentiful,  and  the  mountains  are 
quite  impracticable  on  horsebin'k  off  the  rtwl. 

I  think  it  may  bo  interesting  to  future  travellers  to  know  the 
casualties,  accidents,  and  sickness  thjit  happened  to  my  party  d tiring 
^_tt»y  South-West  African  journey.  On  the  return  journey  from  the  Coroca, 
^■bnc  of  the  bullocks  succumbed,  but  I  believe  did  not  die.  At  Capan^ 
^■gombe,  on  the  way  to  Ilumpata,  my  servant  Kelly  was  very  ill  with 
Rintermitteut  fever,  but  quinine  and  change  of  air  to  the  high  plateau 
^Hoon  cured  him.  TiVhilo  hunting  at  Owlthya,  my  chestnut  more,  Pop, 
fell  with  me  and  broke  her  neck.  We  also  lost  one  ox  from  sieknei-s  here. 
On  the  Cuui/uti  I  caught  cold  which  turned  to  rheximatism  and  severe 
ever ;  but  on  moving  away  from  liuuibe,  which  is  rather  unhealthy,  I 
on  got  well.  Shalckvoldt,  my  head  waggon-driver,  and  Franz,  another 
raggon-driver,  had  for  a  short  time  severe  intermittent  fever  on  our 
ray  to  the  coast.  On  their  arrival  at  Humpata,  on  the  third  plateau, 
bey  soon  got  well.  None  of  theso  eases  lasted  more  than  ten  or  twelve 
ays  in  their  bad  form.  I  found  calomel  in  five  or  six  grain  doses, 
FfoUowed  by  quinine,  to  be  the  best  remedy. 

The  total  length  of  my  journey  in  South- West  Africa  outward  was 


470     A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAJIEDES  TO  TH£  RIVER  CONEkR— DISCOSSKW. 

316  English  miles;  and  I  waa  ten  months  and  two  days  away  from 
Liverpool. 

The  following  discussion  ensued  on  tlie  concVuaion  of  the  foregoing  paper  :— 
Mr.  FiiAscis  CrALTON  Said  lew  i>ersons  irresent  CJDuld  have  looked  forward  to  the 
results  of  Loni  Mayo'a  journey  with  greater  interest  than  he  (Mr.  Gallon)  himMlf 
did,  lM?can&o  it  was  his  fate  some  thirty  years  ago  to  be  travelling  very  near  the  tame 
district,  and  in  his  exploration  of  Ovampjland  and  Odonga  he  reached  a  point  aboot 
five  daya'  journey  from  Hiinipata.  During  that  joamey,  being  familiar  with  the  v*k 
desert  of  Western  Africa,  the  iilea  of  an  ever-Uowiog  river  filled  his  imagination,  and 
he  looked  upon  it  aa  the  great  Ijonrne  to  be  reached,  though  ho  was  not  fat«d  to 
reach  it.  His  interest  in  ihe  cuunlry  bad  lieen  kept  up  by  many  facts.  One  was  thr 
death  of  hia  companion,  Mr.  Andcrsson,  who  returned  to  the  country  and  travelled 
there  on  many  occasions.  Ho  reached  the  Coodne'  worn  out  with  disease  and  ihete 
died.  The  river  was  also  reached  by  Mr.  Uniio  Hahn,  a  missionary,  to  whom  he 
(Mr.  Gallon)  was  indebted  for  many  act4i  of  kindness.  Mr.  Green,  a  wcll-koown 
elephant  hunter,  travelling;  from  the  aonth,  also  got  as  far  as  the  river,  and  fO  had 
many  others,  but  in  no  case  had  a  full  description  of  the  river  been  given — such  i 
description  as  no  doubt  Lord  Mayo  would  give  in  a  fuller  account  of  his  joamey. 
There  were  many  points  of  extreme  interest  in  Lord  Mayo'a  paper.  The  fir«twai 
the  confirmation  of  Sir  Roderick  Marchison's  woU-known  theory  of  Central  Africa 
being  a  basin  Jwundcd  by  high  ramparts,  through  which  the  various  rivers  tiroke. 
Lord  Mayo  found  two  great  chains,  one  2000  feet  high,  and  the  other  higher.  Ab 
the  heiglit  of  the  second  was  only  obtJune<l  by  an  aneroid  it  would  be  advisable  to 
hesitate  before  accepting  the  particular  height  mentioned,  which  seemed  to  be 
excessive.  Of  course  it  was  well  known  that  uueroida  were  liable  to  play  ail  kiuds 
of  tricks,  but  if  Lord  Mayo's  instrument  after  being  tested  in  l^ngland  was  proved 
to  have  no  index  error  the  calculation  must  be  accepted.  The  existence  of  the 
rampirts  to  the  north  and  the  south  was  previously  known,  and  Lord  Mayo  had 
su]nrlied  the  missing  link.  The  two  ranges  converged  into  one  further  sonih,  and 
at  Waivisch  Iky  only  a  single  rid^e  could  be  noticed — au  ajscent  of  4000  feet  leading 
to  the  higher  phteau.  Alhit^ion  w^as  made  in  another  part  of  tlie  paper  to  the  mist 
on  the  lowlands.  The  peculiarity  of  this  coast  was  that  a  south  ]volar  current, 
chilled  by  the  melting  of  the  polar  ice,  jjassed  upwards  and  hugged  the  coast.  It 
was  a  fact  that  had  long  been  known  to  navigators,  and  one  which  was  brought  very 
forcibly  home  to  his  own  knowledge  ;  because  he  happened  to  be  one  of  the  Conndl 
of  the  Meteorological  Office,  and  on  one  occasion  it  fell  to  his  lot  to  au|>erintend  the 
diPcuRsioii  of  a  vast  number  of  observations  that  traced  thnt  current  distinctly  ujv 
waixls.  The  cold  was  so  much  greater  on  the  cutast  than  inland  that  when  be  (Mr. 
Galtou)  rctorned  to  Wnlvisch  Bay  from  tho  interior,  at  a  time  of  the  year  when  the 
sun  was  vertical  at  midiJay,  he  shivered  with  cold  during  the  night,  and  in  the  day- 
lime  had  to  be  well  wrafsped  up.  The  water  was  exceedingly  cold  for  the  Utitude, 
and  the  existence  of  the  mist  which  Lord  Mayo  had  spciken  of  showed  that  the  tame 
climate  extr^nded  to  Mossamede'*.  What  became  of  the  polar  current  afterwards  he 
could  not  say,  but  it  disappeared  by  degrees.  Wherever  that  current  flowed  then 
was  an  abundance  of  fish,  and  it  appeared  from  tho  juapcr  that  there  was  a  plentiful 
Kuitply  of  fish  south  of  Mossamedes.  It  was  a  matter  of  extreme  interest  to  him  to 
hear  of  the  change  that  had  come  over  the  country  since  the  days  when  he  knew  it 
by  hearsyiy.  Butch  Boers  had  now  found  their  way  to  Humpata.  They  were  n  mar- 
vellous  race,  with  great  power  of  acclimatising  themselves;  for  certainly  the  Dutcli- 
meu  seemed  to  live  and  thrive  and  multiply  in  regions  where  the  English  race  did 
not  thriTe  so  well.     Possibly  the  fineness  of  the  men  met  with  at  Humpata  wiu 


A  JOtTRNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUN£KE.^DISClISSION.     471 


partly  dne  to  the  same  cause  that  makes  the  Mormona  such  a  fino-looking  raw.   As 
a  rule  the  Mormons  were  not  recruited  from  the  most  stalwart  pcr5u:>ns  in  England, 
but  they  went  through  very  great  difficulties  in  reaching  their  destination,  the  weaker 
men  died  out,  and  no  doubt  the  survivors  were   tho   strongest  representatives, 
probably  tho  same  sort  of  thing  might  nccount  for  a  stalwart  Dutch  population  b^ing 
trmanently  6xed  atllumpata.    Another  point  that  was  new  to  him  was  the  strong 
old  the  Portiiouese  seemed  to  have  in  the  country  up  to  the  Oun^n^,  their  forts 
eing  scattered  about  tho  country,  and  the  Catholic  Missions  seemed  fairly  egtablishetl 
the  Cunen6  itself.     He  had  long  looked  upon  this  country,  which  was  between 
^300  miles  wide  and  180  or  200  miles  deep,  as  being  one  of  the  most  interesting 
oonntries  to  explore,  and  he  had  no  doubt  that  many  facets  of  still  greater  interest 
remained  to  be  discovered  towards  the  source  of  the  Cuncn^,  where  the  land  was  still 
•  hi^lit-r,  where  immense  rivers  flowed  in  all  directions,  and  where,  no  doubt,  there 
L  wa-s  that  greater  vigour  of  life  that  might  be  expected  in  mountainous  districts.     He 
Itrished  to  pay  a  tribute  to  the  well-tleserved  success  of  Lord  Mayo.     His  journey 
Iwas  not  undertaken  rashly.     Before  ho  went  ho  obtained  from  the  best  authorities  all 
■tho  materials  ho  possibly  could,  and  the  information  was  printed  for  private  circula- 
tion in  a  small  book  which  formed  most  agreeable  reading.     Having  laid  his  plans 
^thoroughly  well,  he  had  in  the  short  space  of  ten  months  from  the  lime  of  leaving 
England  to  his  return  thrown  very  important  light  on  a  meet  interesting  geogra- 
phical subject. 

Sir  Babtlb  Frere  said  that  Lord  Mayo'a  paper  had  thrown  an  interesting  light 
L  some  of  the  important  migrations  of  late  years.  1  he  Trek  Boers  were  seven 
» in  passing  from  the  Transvaal  to  the  place  they  now  occupied  in  Portuguese 
■itorj',  but  their  travels  might  be  traced  still  further  back.  Probably  there  were 
very  few  of  the  men  amnBjj  thcna  whose  fathers  or  grandfathers  were  not  within 
(living  memory'  inhabitants  of  the  lower  part  of  Cape  Colony.  Consequent  upon  the 
emancipation  of  the  slaves  the  Boera  first  of  all  travelled  in  a  north-easturly  direction 
towards  what  is  now  the  Orange  Free  State  and  the  Transvaal,  and  some  of  them 
reached  as  far  as  Lake  Ngarai.  No  doubt  there  were  oth<'r  gentlemen  present 
beside^  Mr.  Galtou  who  recollected  how  Dr.  Smith  and  General  Frederick  Cotton  met 

»the  j>rincipal  settlement  of  the  Trek  Boers  not  very  far  from  tho  present  Diuraond 
Fields  in  Griqualand  WcsL  They  were  then  movin;;  northward.  Owing  partly  to 
their  desire  to  get  as  far  as  possible  into  the  free  wilderness,  and  partly  to  |x>Iitical 
causes,  ihcy  turned  north  and  settled  in  the  Transvaal,  where  they  remained  for  some 
years,  till,  beiug  dissatisfied  with  the  Government  which  they  had  themselves  set  up, 
they  determined  to  seek  the  fertile  country  of  which  they  had  heard  from  elephant 

■  hunters,  beyond  Lake  Ngami.  It  was  aome  time  Iwfore  they  venturtd  t<i  cross  what 
liad  been  properly  called  tho  Great  Thirst  Land,  and  Mr.  Vanzyl,  when  he  waa 
nfterwards  at  Cape  Town,  attributed  his  success  to  the  knowledge  he  had  obtained 
of  the  best  seasons  for  crossing  the  desert.  Lord  Mayo  had  mentioned  how  the 
great  fall  cf  rain  immediately  changed  tho  whole  face  of  the  country,  and  enabled 
the  Trek  Boers  to  move  with  llieir  large  herds  of  cattle  and  their  waggons  over  a 
country  which,  for  nine  months  in  the  year,  was  utterly  impassable.  In  tid.-)  way 
about  300  successfully  reached  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Ngami,  but  many  more 
perished  by  the  way.  In  some  cases  almost  entire  lamilies  were  lost,  but  at  last 
nbont  700,  including  the  300  who  had  tirst  crossed,  reached  the  western  bordi-rs  of 
the  ilesert,  and  turned  towards  Djiraara-lnnd,  and  followed  nearly  the  same  track  as 
Mr.  Gallon  di"l  about  thirty  years  Ufore.  Finding  thnt  thry  were  then  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  other  Europeans  who  had  come  from  Walvisch  Bay,  they  moved  north- 
ward»  and  about  three  or  four  years  ago  first  crossed  the  Cundnd  river.  Thf^re  was 
some  little  difficulty  at  first  in  arranging  matters  wth  the  Portuguese  Government, 


472     A  JOURNEY  FROM  MOSSAMEDES  TO  THE  RIVER  CUNENE.— D1SCU3SI0X. 


but  everybody  must  rejoice  to  hear  that  after  nil  these  wanderings  they  bml  firmly 
settled  down  in  Portuguese  territory.  Asa  people  occnpyinsj  the  eountrk',  ami  not  M 
hiuj;lc  travellers,  they  had  travelled  a  distance  «^f  between  3000  and  4000  mil*, 
withiu  the  recollection  of  many  now  present  at  the  meeting.  Moveriienta  aoch  a« 
these  mnst  in  time  produce  great  results  in  Africa.  It  must  be  remcmboi*«l  (hat 
temperate  AtVvca  did  not  end  at  the  Tropic,  but  extended  along  the  hi«:ltlAt»»:!ji  (ar 
towards  Central  Africa.  It  was  no  doubt  the  BoIiLury  traveller  or  hunter  wlio  fijsi 
led  these  families  to  follow  their  fortunes  northward  into  the  wilderness.  No  better 
illustration  nf  the  results  thus  fjrotluced  could  be  fouud  than  in  the  fortunes  of  Mr. 
Erickson.  When  he  (Sir  Bartle  Frere)  was  at  the  Cape,  he  was  awsured,  on  the 
authority  of  Mr.  Erickson's  partner,  that  he  who  aa  a  young  man  started  as  an 
assistant  to  Andersson  thw  truvolItT,  had  at  that  time  sixty  wagrgons  in  the  field, (iich 
waggon  with  not  leas  than  sixteen  jxiirs  of  oxen,  with  one  or  two  men  of  Eurofieati 
blood  BK  hunters  leading  some  ten  or  twelve  native  hunters,  all  engapjed  in  collecting 
ivory  and  ostrich  feathers,  and  other  protiucts  of  the  wilderness,  such  as  the  skitui  of 
antelopes,  which  alKJUiided  there.  Lie  had  good  reason  to  bcliove  that  at  thiU  time 
the  firm  of  Erickson  had  a  capital  of  not  less  than  200,000/,  employed  between  the 
Orange  river  nud  the  Cun^ni5,  Looking  at  these  facts,  there  could  be  no  doubt  that 
there  was  a  great  future  before  the  countries  of  South  Africa,  and  the  Society 
must  feel  greatly  ubliged  to  those  who,  as  Lord  Mayo  had  done,  gave  them  graphic 
accounts  of  the  regions  they  visited. 

The  Chairman  (Sir  Henry  Rawlinson)  asked  Lord  Mayo  to  give  them  aotno 
more  infomiation  as  to  the  nature  and  extt^nt  of  the  Portu^ieso  authority.  Tla- 
paper  mentioned  a  small  garrison  of  twenty-five  soldiers.  That  did  not  indicate  way 
very  consolidated  atithority.  What  was  the  relative  position  of  the  Boers  and  the 
Portuguese?  Was  autonuuiy  allowed  to  the  former,  or  were  they  entirely  subject 
to  the  Portuguese? 

The  Earl  of  Mavu,  in  reply,  said  there  was  a  rather  strong  furt  at  Mossaniedex 
mounting  a  certarn  number  of  mu/.zle-loading  gims,  and  the  usual  garrison  of  hlack 
soldiers,  which,  sis  he  said  before,  always  ran  away.  There  were  very  few  whiln 
Boldiera,  but  some  of  the  non-commissioned  ofticers  were  white  men.  A  great  many 
of  ihc  inhabitants  of  that  part  of  the  country  were  fieyradadoa — men  in  exile  from 
their  own  wmntry.  Some  of  them  were  murderers,  and  a  great  many  of  th«n 
thieves.  When  they  got  out  there  they  seemed  to  lose  all  tlieir  former  energy,  uui 
to  relai)fio  into  ordinary  farmers,  though  they  did  not  farm  wry  well.  With  regard 
to  the  Boer  settlemunt  at  Humjiata,  tlie  lioerd  were  certainly  under  the  criminal 
laws  of  Portugal,  but  ibey  were  allowed  to  carry  on  their  own  religious  services  and 
manage  their  own  niEirria;^es.  There  was  a  Portuguese  commandant  or  chef  at 
Humpata,  oppoiniud  by  the  Governor  of  Mossamedea,  who  was  under  the  Govituot 
of  St.  Paul  dc  Loanda.  His  name  was  Senhor  Paiva,  and  he  wa.s  married  to  Oom> 
mandant  Ikttha's  daughter.  The  Portuguese  on  the  coiist  imagitjctl  that  the  Boat 
were  being  too  Avell  treated,  and  they  found  an  excuse  for  recalling  Paiva,  but  he 
had  Ixeu  iein«tated.  The  Boers  had  no  advantage  in  the  way  of  duties  on  the 
coast.  Those  duties  were  excessive,  and  in  fact  the  Portuguese  had  completely 
mined  any  chance  of  fair  Irade  by  the  fearful  liuties  which  they  irapose<L  He  him- 
self took  out  some  cotton  goods,  and  the  duties  on  them  were  ouc-third  of  their 
invoiced  price.  The  Porluguese  Avere  very  friendly  tn  the  Boers,  and  were  very  ^bil 
of  their  lielji  when  there  was  any  row  with  the  natives,  because  the  Boers  did  not 
run  away.  Mr.  Jordan,  who  kept  the  st<ire  at  Hurapata,  found  it  cheaper  to  dnwr 
his  gocKis  in  waggons  from  Walviach  Bay  rather  than  to  pay  the  excessive  duties  at 
Mossamcdes.  However,  he  believeti  the  Portuguese  hume  Government  were  gohijs 
to  make  iome  eQbrts  to  reduce  the  duties,  and  if  they  did  they  Avould  greatly 


DISCOVERY  OK  AN  ANCIENT  ilAP  IN  ICELAND  BY  BARON  NORDENSKIOLD.  i73 

improve  the  country,  as  a  more  beautiful  and  fertile  region  could  not  well  be 
imagined. 

In  answer  to  a  question  by  a  Fellow,  with  regard  to  the  power  that  the  Portu- 
guese had  of  enforcing  tlieir  jurisdiction  over  the  B<»era,  tlie  Earl  of  Mayo  said  Uiey 
iiiDply  allowed  tliem  to  settle  in  Portuguese  territory.    The  Boers  were  not  stronger 

■in  numbers  than  the  whol(<  of  tho  Portuguese  in  the  province  of  Mossamedes.     The 
Portuguese  farmer.s  were  naturally  a  little  jealous,  because  the  Boers  grew  better 
wheat  than  they  rhcmselves  did.     At  Mussamedes  they  imported  their  corn  from 
^Lisbon,  but  Mr.  Jordan  hoi>ed  that  tlie  Boers  would  grow  sufficient  for  all  their 

Sir  Hekry  Lefroy  asked  whether  the  Boers  managed  to  take  a  minister  of 
any  kind,  or  a  schoolmaster  with  them  in  their  seven  years'  wanderings,  and  what 
their  social  condition  was  in  regard  to  contracting  marriage  and  training  up  their 
funiltes  like  civilised  people  ? 

The  Earl  ofMATO  said  that,  in  order  to  gel  married,  they  had  to  go  to  the  Commandant 

»and  declare  themselvea,  and  a  record  was  kept  of  the  marriage.  They  bad  no  clergy- 
men, but  there  were  elders.  On  Sundays  they  held  services,  and  engaged  in  psiUni- 
•inging.  They  had  no  schoolmaster,  Init  some  of  the  elder  people  had  now  established 
a  school  at  Humpata.  They  were  Gxlvinists,  and  would  not  send  their  children  to 
the  Roman  Catholic  missionaries;  but  they  had  acerlxiin  amount  of  schooling  among 
tiiemselTefl.  They  were  not  very  well  ediicatetl.  They  did  not  teach  their  childrea 
re«ding,  writing,  or  arithmetic  in  a  very  systematic  manner,  but  they  knew  their 
Bible  thoroughly.  Iliey  were  exceedingly  moral  and  well  conducted. 
H  The  Chaikmax,  in  concluding  tlio  discussion,  said  the  last  observations  of  Lord 
KHayo  and  Sir  Bartlo  Frere  were  of  considerable  interest,  not  merely  in  reference  to 
that  fiarticular  part  of  Africa,  but  also  to  Ihe  great  questions  now  being  agitated  on 
the  Congo,  where  Portuguese  jurisdiction  and  Government,  if  established,  might  be 
supposed  to  be  conducted  very  much  on  the  same  principles  as  further  south.  It 
was  said  to  be  likely  ihat  a  conflict  of  jurisdiction  would  arise  between  the  Portu- 
guese and  the  French  and  the  International  Exploration  party,  and  it  was  interesting 
to  know  what  their  relative  positions  were  in  regard  to  the  science  of  government. 
Lord  Mayo  had  given  them  a  very  good  example  ul  tbo  method  in  which  amuse- 
ment could  be  combined  with  science.  He  had  shown  them  how  a  traveller  miglit 
devote  himself  to  sport,  and  at  the  same  time  collect  iufurmation  of  the  gre^'itest 
I  ralue  both  to  the  geographer,  the  naturalist,  and  the  general  student.  They  were 
lali  very  much  indebted  to  Mm  for  his  kindness  in  reading  the  i>aper. 


Discoveiy  of  an  Ancient  Map  in  Iceland  htf  Baron  NordemJciold. 

the  10th  of  July  Mr.  R.  H,  Major  received  the  following  letter  from 
NordeDskifild,  written  in  Swedish,  and  dated  Keikiavik,  June  10th, 


•Highly  honoured  Colleague, — Just  when  1  had  steam  np  to  leave 
f  Seikiavlk  the  spring  of  one  of  my  chronometers  broke.  I  went  ashoro 
rto  get  a  new  spring  put  in,  and  while  I  waited  I  received  the  informa- 
tion that  an  old  map  was  in  the  possession  of  one  of  tho  inhabitants  of 
Aaden.  I  went  immediately  to  him,  and  fonnd  that  the  map  consisted 
of  a  fragment  of  a  chart  resoinbiing  Zeno's.  The  fragment  comprises  a 
piece  of  Greenland  with  the  names  Gui,  Cher,  Boier,  Ther ;  Iceland 
No.  Vm.— Aug.  1883.]  2  i 


474  DISCO rERY  of  as  ancient  map  i5f  icklant)  by  baro.v  nordenskiold, 

very  complete,  leitliout  Bres,  Iscant,  Mimant,  &c. ;  England  and  SootUnd, 
the  latter  terminating  roughly'  without  the  incorrect  extensiou  toward* 
the  cast.  No  degrees  of  latitudo  are  shown  in  it,  but  coiujiaw  line* 
similar  to  tliose  on  the  chart  of  Andrea  Bianco.  A  portion  of  Fiisland  ? 
or  EstotilaiKl  appearB.     I  cauofjt,  however,  dotenniue  its  age  here. 

*'  I  have  sent  this  important  find  to  the  Librarian,  E.  DaklgreB,  hi ! 
Stockhohn,  who  will  at  once  have  it  copied.     In  greatest  haste;  tlw 
Anchor  iw  already  weighed.    With  distinguished  resp4?ct  and  fricndihip, 

"A.   E.    NORDESSKIOLD." 

In  sending  this  commnnication,  Mr.  Major  writes  : — 
"  I  myself  so  warmly  syrapatliise  with  and  share  Baron  NordeimViiVId* 
I  gladness  in  lighting  on  this  remarkable  map,  that  I  venture  to  offer  n 
■  few  explanatory  words  to  enable  the  reader  to  appreciate  it  also.    In 
f  J390  a  Venetian  nobleman  named  Niccolo  Zeno  went,  at  his  own  expense. 
|dn  a  voyage  rather  of  curiosity  than  discovery  into  the  Northern  Seas. 
[iiis  object  being  to  visit  England  and  Flanders.     lie  was  wrecked  io  a 
Btorm  on  the  Eroroe  Islands,  and  was  rescued  from  the  wrockors  l»y 
Henry  Sinclair,  Eurl  of  Oikney  and  Caithness,  into  wboso  sorvic©  he 
entered  as  pilot  of  his  fleet.     After  remaining  with  this  chieftaii»  souif? 
liime,  he  wrote  home  to  his  brother  Antonio,  inviting  him  to  join  him. 
["which  ho  did.     Niccoltj  survived  his  brother's  arrival  four  years,  And 
r Antonio  remained  in  the  servico  of  Earl  Sinclair  ten  years  more,  when 
ho  returned  to  Venice,  and  there  died.     It  is  from  Niccolo 's  letter  to 
Antonio,  and  later  letters  from  Antonio  to  a  tlrird  brother,  Carlo,  that 
the  narrative  of  the  movements  of  the  two  brothers  is  derived,  a  rery 
important  item  in  which  is  a  visit  by  Niccolo  to  Greenland.     The  whole 
stoiy  had  been  written  out  by  Antonio,  but  a  descendant  of  Uis,  named 
Niccolo  Zeno,  born  in  1515,  when  a  boy  and  ignoiunt  of  the  value  of 
those  papers,  torn  them  up :  but  some  of  the  letters  surviving,  be  wm 
able  subsequently  to  compile  the  narrative,  and  publish  it  in  looB.     He 
found  also  in  the  palace  a  map,  rotten  with  age,  illustrative  of  the 
voyages.     Of  this  he  made  a  copy,  unlnekily  supplying  from  his  own 
reading  of  the  narrative  what  he  thought  was  requisite  for  its  illustra- 
tion.    How  disastrous  was  the  effect  of  his  well-intentioned,  but  neoefr- 
sarily  blind  efforts  in  this  dii-ection,  may  be  jtidgod  from  the  fact  tliat, 
through  misreading  the  name  of  Eslanda  or  Estlanda  (Shetland)  for 
Iceland,  he  added  to  the  latter  the  names   belonging  to  the  former. 
These  ai-e   the   names   which   Baron   Nordenskiold   very  significantly 
emphasises  as  being  absent  from  the  Iceland  of  his  newly-found  nmi». 
This  is  a  point  of  importance  in  respect  of  a  map  which  does  bear  those 
other  names  which  he  quotes  as  on  the  East  Coast  of  Greenland,  for  tbey 
are  absolutely  identical  with  tho§o  laid  down  on  that  coast  in  the  Zeno 
map.     In  this  fact  lies  tlio  quintessence  of  the  value  of  this  intereeting  I 
find,  for  there  is  no  other  known  source  for  the  remarkable  infonnntioaj 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  475 

about  Greenland  that  is  presented  at  so  early  a  period  by  the  Zeno  map. 
•  Of  course  everything  depends  on  the  date  of  Baron  Nordenskiold's  find. 
The  only  suggestion  on  that  head  is  his  casual  reference  to  the  map  of 
the  Venetian,  Andrea  Bianco,  which  is  of  the  date. of  1436.  If  it  be 
later  than  1558,  its  value  is  reduced  to  a  minimum,  as  there  would  be 
nothing  to  show  that  its  information  was  not  derived  from  the  published 
Zeno  map.  If  earlier,  it  becomes  a  focus  of  great  interest,  for  there  can 
be  little  doubt  that  the  original  MS.  map  of  the  Zeni  lay  among  the 
family  antiquities  in  the  palace  in  Venice  from  Antonio's  death  till 
published  by  the  later  Zeno,  and  the  unavoidable  inference  would  then 
be  that  both  it  and  the  Baron's  recent  find  are  derived  from  a  yet  earlier 
source.  Now,  if  we  reflect  that  the  date  of  the  Zeno  map  is  a  full 
century  before  Columbus  crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  yet  that  it  and  its 
accompanying  narrative  bring  us  the  latest  known  accounts  of  the  still 
existing  remains  of  the  old  Norse  colonies  in  America,  first  founded 
A.D.  1001,  and  of  their  continued  commercial  intercourse  with  Greenland, 
we  cannot  much  wonder  at  the  Baron's  gratification.  But  what  would 
still  more  interest  him  at  the  present  moment  is  the  occurrence  of  the 
Zeno  names  on  the  East  Coast  of  Greenland,  for  as  the  East  Bygd  of  the 
Greenland  colony,  which  he  believes  to  have  been  on  that  coast,  was 
then  flourishing,  these  names,  vague  though  they  be,  would  naturally 
have  a  tendency  to  strengthen  his  conviction  and  his  hopes.  We  must 
all  wish  him  God-speed  in  his  noble  enterprise.  He  brings  to  bear  on  it 
the  conclusions  of  a  learned  and  zealous  antiquary,  the  scientific  deduc- 
tions  of  an  experienced  physical  geographer,  and  an  amount  of  pluck 
and  perseverance  under  special  difficulties,  which  have  won  for  him  a 
position  in  the  world's  history  second  only  to  that  of  Christopher 
Colimibus  himself." 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Mr,  Thomson's  Expedition.— Since  our  last  issue  wo  have  received 
letters  through  Colonel  Miles,  Acting  Consul-General  at  Zanzibar,  giving 
further  details  of  Mr.  Thomson's  retreat  from  the  point  he  had  reached 
north-west  of  Kilimanjaro  to  Taveta  on  the  south-east.  On  learning  that 
the  leader  had  come  down  to  the  coast  for  further  supplies,  Colonel  Miles 
was.  enabled,  through  the  courtesy  of  Captain  Luxmoore,  to  despatch 
immediately  to  Mombasa  the  steam  launch  of  the  London^  with  all  that  Mr. 
Thomson  required,  and  he  had  heard  that  the  goods  had  reached  him  safely. 
Colonel  Miles  further  informs  us  that  our  traveller  had  probably,  at  the 
date  of  his  letter  (June  10th),  started  again  for  the  interior  to .  Taveta, 
where  he  had  left  his  men  encamped,  and  adds  that  Thomson  would  not 
be  easily  daunted  and  that,  as  far  as  he  could  learn,  he  had  acted  skil- 
fully and  with  much  judgment  in  the  difficult  circumstances  of  his  jKwition. 

2  I  2 


476 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Pending  tlie  arrival  of  Mr.  Thoinson*8  official  report,  the  following  letter 
he  wrote  to  Colonel  Miles  will  be  interesting  to  our  readers  : — 

Mombasa,  Jum  5th^  1883. 

On  my  arrivsil  at  Taveta,  March  31at,*  I  found  that  I  had  a  work  of  \ 
unexpected  magnitude  before  me»  viz.  to  string  anew  the  thirty  loads 
of  beads  I  had  with  me.      This   occupied  me,  together  with  sewing 
special  war  dresses  for  the  Masai  and  cutting  the  ii-oti  wire  into  parti- 
cular  lengths,  no  less  than   twelve    days.      It  had  then  also  become 
evident  to  me  that  it  was  necessary  to  have  a  second  interpreter,  and,  as 
luck  would  have  it,  I  found  8adi,  the  guide  of  Von  derDecken  and  New, 
living  like   a  pauper  at  Taveta,  and  after  several  days  of  the  most 
annoying  negotiations  I  secured  him.     I  have  not  since  formed  a  very 
high  opinion  of  his  character,  but  there  was  no  one  else  to  bo  had,  and 
to  give  him  his   due  he   certainly  knows  the  Masai  language  well 
When   I  arrived  at  Tavota   I  fotiud  myself  on  the  very  heels  of  Dr. 
Fischer,  he  being  at  Anisha  wa  Cliini,  two  days  to  the  south-west.    If 
I  had  not  then  had  the  work  of  stringing  tlie  stock  of  beads  to  do  I 
should  actually  have  preceded  him,  but  unfortunately  for  me  he  wai 
ready  to  go  on  and  1  was  not,  and  thus  it  happened  that  he  got  a  start 
of  over  a  fortnight  on  me.     You  are  aware  that  in  all  our  inquiries  of 
the  German  Consul  as  tu  Fischer's  route  we  were  informed  that  it  vnt, 
via  Keiiia  to  M'bariugo,  which  seemed  to  leave  to  me  my  original  roato 
undisturbed.     It  was  on  this  information  that  I  made  my  preparations, 
taking  the  goods  required  on  that  particular  route.     It  was   vexing, 
therefore,  on  my  arrival  at  Taveta  to  hear  that  Fischer  was  not  going 
to  Kenia  but  through  the  Masai  country  to  Kgurumaui,  and  then  north 
to  M'baringo.     My  goods   intended  for  the  Masai  and  Wa-kavirondo 
would  not  do  for  U-kambaui ;  I  could  not  therefore  alter  my  route, 
which  would  also  have  entailed  a  great  detour.     There  was  nothing  for 
it  but  to  take  a  route  which  would  keep  me  from  actually  following  in 
the  footsteps  of  Fischer. 

The  news  came  that  be  was  going  via  Arusha  and  Kisongo,  so  I 
determined  to  follow  the  route  to  the  north  of  Kilimanjaro,  tho;igh  much 
against  my  will,  as  it  was  known  to  be  an  expensive  and  troublesome 
route,  though  the  direct  one. 

I  left  Taveta  on  the  lOtb  of  April,  and  two  days  after  fell 
into  the  clutches  of  the  chief  Mandara,  by  a  clever  mse  of  liis,  and  had 
to  stay  three  days,  which  I  utilised  by  an  attempt  to  ascend  above  tho 
forest  lino  (about  10,000  feet)  but  failed,  owing  to  the  want  of  time, 
having  to  go  and  return  on  the  same  day.     It  cost  mo  to  get  out  of 

•  T^Ir-  Tboniaoii  left  Zanzibat  on  ^larcb  Gtb,  ond  finally  staried  for  the  iuteriorfrom 
the  miaaionary  stations  Bcar  MomlbaBn,  on  the  15th  Jlarcb.  The  difitnnoe  between  llie 
coast  aud  Tavota  was  performed  in  eleven  marches,  or  at  the  rate  of  foartecn  niilea  iu  a 
atraight  line  per  day. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


477 


landara's  hands  my  own  doublo-barrelled  Binooth-bore,  a  GovGmment 

Buider  with  sword-bayonet,  a  service  revolver,  one  of  ray  iron  boxes,  a 

suit  of  European  clothes  complete,  a  great  quantity  of  cloth,  and  some 

gunpowder. 

^fe      Our  Ton  to  for  the  following  five  days  lay  roand  the  mountain,  over 

^HBaSDerous  impetuous  mountain  torrents,  three  or  four  of  which  were 

^Hnteed  with  difficulty.     During  all  this  time  we  never  saw  the  upper 

^■part  of  Kilimanjaro,  except  in  short  occasional  glimpses  about  sunrise 

and  sunset.     Once  I  had  a  view  of  the  summit  for  about  half  an  hour. 

There  was  no  snow  on  the  lower  peak,  and  on  the  upper  one  only  a 

slight  cap  which,  however,  extended  some  distance  down  the  soutliem 

side.    It  was  a  majestic  sight  to  sec  the  snow-cap  glancing  like  burnished 

silver  in  the  morning  sun,  flanked    by   the  black  craggy  outlines  of 

Kimawenzi,  while  huge,  fleecy-white  cumulus  clouds  rolled  and  tumbled 

^_  along  the  sides,  till  at  last  a  veil  of  stratus  mysteriously  appeared  and 

^■in  a  few  seconds  the  whole  scene  vanished  and  gave  place  to  a  blank 

^^  expanse  of  grey.     Upon  the  whole,  however,  I  have  been  disappointed 

with  its  appearance ;  it  is  too  vast  and  too  regular  in  shape,  and  the 

broad  platform  of  Chaga  from  which  it  rises — a  garden  of  Eden  in  the 

^■matter  of  fertility — helps  to  spoil  the  effect.     The  country  all  round  the 

^■Iwise,  though  capable  of  producing  anything,  is  tofcilly  uninhabited,  owing 

^Bio  the  dread  of  the  Masai,  but  swarms  with  large  game  :  buflklo,  rhino- 

^^ceros,  zebra,  and  elephants. 

On  the  20th  of  April  we  reached  the  frontier  of  the  Masai  at  a  place 

^■:called  Kibonoto,  where  there  is  a  tribe  of  Wa-chaga.     Two  days  after  a 

^'deputation  of  Masai  came  from  Kiiaragwa,  inviting  us,  or  rather  giving 

us  leave  to  enter  their  country.    This  wo  did  the  following  day,  camping 

Pnear  two  \Tllage8  or  kraals  on  the  Ngare  na  Erobi.     The  first   day 
everything  seemed  all  right,  tliough  I  viewed  with  apprehension  the 
enormous  hongo   that   had   to  Ije   given.     Three  other  such  hougos, 
and  I   should  be  practically  stripped  ;   but  that  was  a  small  matter 
cuuiparod  with  the  news  that,  despite  all  my  efforts,  I  had  actually 
fallen  on  the  route  taken  by  Fiflchor;  and  not  only  that,  but  found 
to  my   dismay   that  he  had  had  some   fighting  two  days  ahead,  in 
which  a   chief  and   two  women   had   been   killed,  events  which  had 
^kiever  before  happened  in  the  Masai  country.     Fischer,  however,  with 
^^vis  large  caravan,  joined  to  another  of  equal  size,  was  too  much  for  them, 
^MBO  they  accepted  "  blood-monoy,"  which,  however,  was  laid  aside,  and 
^H^iey  vowed  vengeance  on  the  first  weak  caravan  which  should  pass. 
^■*rhe  appearance  of  such  a  one,  with  a  white  man,  too,  as  the  leader,  was 
the  signal  for  the  rising  of  the  whole  country  in  advance.     The  elders 
^Lpf  the  place  where  we  halted  were  against  lighting,  and  rather  on  our 
^nide ;  but  the  day  after  our  anival  all  the  3'oung  men  disappeared,  to 
Hgoin  their  friends.    Attempts  at  coming  to  an  explanation  failed ;  nothing 
would  satisfy  them  but  a  bloody  revenge.     Spies  watched  our  move- 


47a 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


ments^  our  food  wajs  rmiiiiiig  short,  and  no  more  was  forthcoming.     We 
put  on  a  bold  front,  and  hinted  that  wo  were  going  ahead  in  two  da> 
and  tliat  if  they  would  not  let  us  pass  peaceably,  wo  would  fight  them. 

This  fortunately  kept  them  waiting,  in  order  to  catch  us  in  the  0}ii.iu  j 
It  was  clear,  however,  that  to  attempt  to  go  ahead  would  end  only  in  n 
miaerablo  disaster,  probably  annihilation.     We  felt  confident  we  cotUd- 
beat  thcin   oif,  but  we  were  not  strong  enough   to  capture  food,  and^ 
starvation  would  havo  been  the  result. 

On  the  Qvoning  of  thu  <>th  May  a  blood-brotlier  of  our  guide  Muhinna 
came  secretly  into  camp  and  informed  us  that  a  combined  attack  would 
be  made  in  tho  monnng,  and  warned  us  to  be  prepared  as  they  wcm 
coming  in  great  numbers.  We  felt  that  it  would  never  do  to  wait  for 
such  an  event,  as  it  would  mean  at  least  the  death  of  several  mteu.  tbe 
loss  of  as  many  loads,  and  the^making  of  the  country  more  bitt^'r  against 
our  passage  by  any  other  route,  as  the  news  would  soon  truveL  After 
dark  the  men,  who  had  been  kept  ignorant  of  what  was  going  on,  wero 
told  to  prepare  for  a  night  march,  and  making  up  big  fires,  which 
would  burn  some  time,  to  deceive  any  onv  who  might  be  on  the  lookirut, 
we  stolo  quietly  out  of  camp. 

Fortunately  the  night  was  dark  and  a  slight  rain  fell  which  drove 
any  wandering  Masai  home  ;  wo  contrived  to  pass  between  the  vilh»g« 
unseen^  and  early  in  tho  morning  arrived  at  Kibonoto.  Now  if  I  had 
had  fifty  more  men  I  would  immediately  have  struck  straight  for 
Amaiia,  but  wath  the  number  I  had  and  reduced  in  loads  to  attempt  the 
other  road  was  but  to  find  myself  at  Ngurumani  without  a  load  of  irun 
wire,  almost  the  sole  means  of  exchange,  and  so,  however  much  against 
the  giain,  I  saw  clearly  that  there  waa  nothing  for  it  but  immediately 
to  return  to  Taveta, 

So  to  Taveta  I  did  return  with  all  the  honours  of  war,  and  two  days 
after  I  was  on  my  way  to  the  coast,  and  here  I  am. 

I  shall  be  oil*  again  in  three  or  four  days.  If  possible  I  shall  arrange 
to  go  in  company  ivith  an  Arab  caravan  ;  if  I  fail  in  that,  then  I  will  do 
my  best  and  do  or  die. 

Dr.  Fi8cher*s  Expedition.— On  the  4th  of  July,  tho  Secretary  of" 
Hamburg  Geographical  Society  received  from  TTerr  Emll  Prallcrt,  the 
German  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  a  letttr  giving  the  first  authentic  newa  of 
the  Harabiirg  Expedition  which  is  exploring  the  snowy  mountain  regiona 
of  East  Africa,  under  tho  leadership  of  Dr.  Fischer.     The  writer  says : ' 
"  I  avail  myself  of  the  present  opportunity  to  inform  you  that  news  ha» 
arrived  here  indirectly  respecting  Dr.  Fischer,  to  the  effect  that  he  was  | 
in  good  health,  and  that  his  eipedition  appeared  to  be  going  on  well. 
The  caravan  of  tho  English  traveller,  Mr.  Thomson,  was  thought  t«)  be  not  I 
Btrnng  enough  to  make  its  way  through  the  territory  of  the  Masai,    He 
had  arrived  at  Ngare  na  Erobi  (to  the  west  of  Kilimanjaro),  but  had  ro- 
tumed  thence  on  the  5th  of  May.   At  Ngare  na  Erobi,  Mr.  Thomson  learnt 


^ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  KOTES. 


KPr.  Pischei  was  distant  only  a  few  days'  journey  from  him«  and  that, 
ftt  the  head  of  800  men,  he  had  forced  his  way  through  the  country, 
I  After  several  of  tho  Masai,  including  one  of  their  chiefs,  had  ]>ecn  killed. 
|'I>r.  Fischer,  who  himself  had  only  3iJ0  jieople  with  him,  hjid  apparently, 
latx-ordinp  to  this  news,  nuited  with  other  caravans,  and  probaLly  has 
tiUa  succeeded  in  surmounting  the  principal  difficulty  he  had  to 
I'encounter  in  his  journey." 

Siimour  of  the  Death  of  King"  Mtesa  of  Fganda.— We  have  received 

be  following  note  on  this  suhject  from  Colonel  J.  A.  Grant,  onco  the 

[^Qest  of  the  renowned  African  potentate: — •'!  am  afraid  from  what  we 

ftvc  heard  for  some  years  past  of  tho  change  that  had  come  ovctr  Mtesa. 

^  that  the  report  published  in  our  tlaily  papera  of  the  13th  July,  of  tho 

tleaib  of  this  very  remarkable  man,  must  be  taken  as  true.    A  few  years 

Ago  when   Messrs.  Wilson  and   Felkin    resided  in  Uganda,  tho  king 

snffered  from  a  malady  which  they  believed  would  tenuinute  fatally 

9mlo88  an  operation  was  performed;  and  I  understood  from  Mr.  Felkin 

H  that  he  would  have  submitted  to  it,  if  his  chiefs  had  not  foarcd  tho  con^ 

^uequenoe  and  dissuaded  him.     I  am  surprised  at  this  as  Africans  as  a 

^■rule  operate  upon  uach  other  without  fear ;  however,  we  have  yet  to 

™  learn  what  caused  the  death  of  King  Mtesa.     He  was  a  minor  when 

first  visited  in  1862  by  the  late  Captain  Speke  and  myself,  and  succeeded 

Kis  father  KingSuna  about  1657,  so  that  his  reign  has  lasted  twenty-six 

years,  and  the  probable  age  he  died  at  is  forty-six.     If  we  calculate  that 

the  thirty-five  kings  of  Uganda  have  reigned  for  twenty  years  each,  we 

tliave  a  period  of  seven  hundred  years  to  go  back  on,  which  may  in  a 
measure  account  for  the  *  blue  blood  '  and  vanity  which  certainly  ran 
iu.  the  veins  of  Mtesa.     He  upheld  tlie  traditions  of  h.is  country  in  many 

t  respects.  His  ancestors  were  hunters  and  kept  hunting  dogs:  Mtesa 
when  first  sc^en  by  us,  always  led  a  dog  by  a  neatly  made  cord,  but  we 
Are  told  by  Mi'.  H.  M.  Stanley  that  this  animal  hud  disappeared  when 
lie  visited  Uganda  after  us.  I  believe  that  Mahommcdan  influence  had 
operated  in  the  cxj>ulsion  of  tliis  animal,  a&  tlio  term  '  dog '  is  one  of 
abuse  among  Moslems.  Mtesa  also  showed  every  respect  and  affectiou 
'for  his  clever  mother,  visiting  her  at  her  residence  every  second  day 
while  wo  residu'd  in  Uganda,  and  oftenor  when  necessary  to  consult 

■  iier  on  state  matters,  as  she  was  one  of  those  who  were  responsible 
for  the  actions  of  government  during  the  minority  of  the  prince.  An 
allusion  may  bo  made  to  the  other  princes  of  Uganda,  whom  we  saw 
going  about  in  chains,  as  Mtesa  had  done  previous  to  his  election 
to  succeed  King  Suna;  tho  brothers  felt  no  disgrace  whatever  in 
being  so  chained,  they  conversed,  and  attended  picnics,  and  boated, 
and  played  musical  instruments  with  their  brother  the  king  while 
they  wore  chained,  with  perfect  freedom  of  action,  and  of  speech. 
In  fact  they  were  a  happy  mirthful  famUy,  enjoying  life  to  the 
fnllcBt  extent,  even  with  the  knowledge  that  at  the  coronation  of  their 


480 


GEOGRArHICAL  NOTES. 


brother  they  would  all  bo  placed  on  a  funeral  pile.     Mtesa  was 

anxious  to  hear  what  other  people  thoufrht  of  hiin,  and  ohtained 
much  of  his  iutolligence  from  the  visits  his  chiefs  paid  to  the  oonntrica 
around  his  own  kingdom.  He  gave  his  orders  by  bits  of  stick,  not  being 
able  to  read  or  write,  and  his  faithful  chiefs  would  travcd  thirty  to 
forty  miles  daily  on  foot»  carrying  only  their  sjiears,  shields,  and  a 
respectable  bark-cloth,  and  accompanied  by  a  dog  and  a  drummer.  Tho 
"Waganda  thus  travelled  thousands  of  miles  for  their  beloved  king.  They 
delighted  to  servo  him,  but  they  were  the  terror  of  the  agriculturists  of 
the  countries  they  pa^ised  through,  because  they  rarely  paid  their  way, 
except  when  taking  tusks  to  Zanzibar  or  any  great  sultan.  Three  of  hi« 
chiefs  came  to  England  with  presents  for  our  most  gracious  Majesty,  and 
lived  to  tell  their  sovereign  what  they  had  seen  in  England,  and  to  deliver 
to  him  the  presents  they  had  received  from  our  Queen.  By  such  meanu 
he  has  become  knuwn  throughout  the  world,  and  his  loss  will  be 
generally  recognised.  At  his  bidding,  his  whole  people  would  at  onoe 
have  adopted  the  Christian  religion,  so  great  waa  his  influence  and  their 
devotion  to  him.  He  was  wily  enough  to  remain  upon  good  terms  with 
a  few  sunouuding  kings,  such  as  the  late  araifible  Humanika,  king  of 
Karagweh,  who  Avas  his  southern  neighbour,  but  he  always  had  an  eye 
for  business,  expecting  a  good  return  in  cloths,  trinkets,  guns,  and 
ammunition  for  the  food,  slaves,  and  elephant  tusks  he  exchanged 
with  either  visitor**  or  traders ;  but  though,  with  us,  he  was  gentlemanly 
in  these  transactions,  ho  did  not  hesitate  to  send  his  pages  to  steal  a 
bag  of  shot  or  any  other  thing  which  we  might  have  refused  him.  This 
may  not  1  le  manly  according  to  our  ideas,  Imt  I  can  forgive  it,  for  we  were 
paid  handsomely  in  the  end  by  gifts  of  cattle  and  kiads  of  butter  and 
bananas,  so  I  may  say  that  Mtesa  was  very  hospitable ;  he  certainly  was 
manly,  for  no  young  Briton  was  fonder  of  sport  and  rollicking  amuse- 
ment, and  indeed  of  acquiring  information  on  every  subject.  It  may 
therefore  be  said  that  during  hia  reign  he  has  promoted  the  cause  of 
humanity  by  his  intelligence ;  he  has  raised  his  subjects  above  the 
ordinary  scale  of  all  the  Africans  I  have  met  with,  chiefly  by  making 
them  observe  while  travelling.  He  fearlessly  adopted  first  the  Ma- 
hommedan  and  afterwards  the  Christian  religion  by  listening  to  th« 
Mollahs  and  Christian  travellers  who  entered  his  countiy,  his  previoiw 
belief  being  in  one  Supreme  Being  and  in  charms.  To  Mtesa  is  greatly 
due  the  discovery  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile — for  hv  it  was  who  gave 
UB  the  route  from  the  Victoria  Nyanza  to  Egj'pt— and  the  knowledge 
that  we  have  of  the  people  and  the  flora  find  fauna  of  Equatorial 
Africa.  Speku  and  I  were  not  the  only  travuUers  of  the  Geographical 
Society  who  received  kindness  from  this  king.  Baker  too,  while  in  the 
service  of  Egypt,  was  all  but  defeated  by  the  Wauyoro,  and  a  force  from 
Uganda  arriving  in  the  distance  was  the  cause  of  the  dispersion  of 
the  enemy.      Baker  has  told  me  that   consequent  on  this   particular 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


481 


act  of  friendliness  be  had  given  his  honour  that  Egj'pt  and  Uganda 

■  would  never  cross  swords.  Mtesa  forwarded  letters  from  Baker  by 
his  swift-footed  soldiers,  who  could  not  reach  Livingstone  to  whom 
the  J  were  addressed^  hecauao  he  waa^dead»  but  they  were  placed  in  the 
hands  of  Captain  Cameron  after  a  joarnoy  of  six  hundred  miles.  Who 
can  ever  forgot  the  way  Stanley  writes  of  the  *  Kabaka,  the  Emperor  of 
Uganda/   the  picture   "of  the  stone  figures  at  Thebes,'   and   in   the 

Ixnuseoms  of  Egypt,  the  'slender,  the  lustrous-eyed.'  Not  a  word  too 
much  was  said  of  him  by  StJinley  and  the  late  brave  Linant  do  BcUefonds, 
who  saw  him  in  his  vigour,  but  the  travellers  who  followed  them  have 
not  the  same  enthusiasm  for  his  character — nearly  all  belonging  to  the 
Church  Missionary  S<x:iety.  It  is  to  be  doubted  whether  futuro  visitors 
will  over  receive  the  same  protection  as  the  firm  power  of  Mtesa  gave 
to  those  who  visited  him.  He  has  not  allowed  his  country  nor  his  people 
to  degenerate  in  any  respect ;  cultivation  has  progressed,  commerce  has 
inoTcased,  manufactures  by  the  missionaries  have  commencetl,  and  the 
people  are  being  dressed  in  calicoes,  American  sheeting,  and  fancy 
Eastern  materials,  instead  of  the  bark  sheets  of  their  wild  fig  trees. 
The  population  of  Uganda  proper  may  bo  estimated  at  a  million 
if  we  multiply  the  fighting  men  by  five,  l<ut  if  the  inhabitants  of 
Karagweh,  Usui,  Unyoro,  and  Usoga  be  included,  then  the  population 
would  reach  three  millions.  The  army  and  navy,  according  to  the  state- 
ment of  Mr.  H.  M.  iitanley,  has  been  raised  to  125,000  soldiers,  anned 
with  spears  and  shields,  with  several  hundred  fire-arms.  His  fleet, 
according  to  the  same  trusty  authority,  consisted  of  five  hundred 
canoes  which  could  float  sixteen  to  twenty  thousand  men.  The  fighting 
force  of  Uganda  has  therefore  been  well  maintained,  drilled,  and 
_  equipped,  after  a  fashion  superior  to  anything  in  Central  Africa,  during 
H  the  short  period  Mtesa  has  been  king.  His  fonn  of  government  was 
B  carried  on  by  daily  durbars,  where  several  hundred  chiefs  of  districts 
W  assembled  with  their  followers  to  hear  the  eloquence  of  the  primo 
minister  and  members  of  the  government ;  nothing  unseemly  api>cared 
beyond  the  silent  removal  for  execution  of  some  obstructionist ;  there 
waa  apparent  decorum,  yet  by  a  whisper,  an  exproBsion  of  the  king's 
eye,  mouth,  or  finger,  how  many  hundreds,  ay  thousands,  have  not 
Buffered  death,  mutilation,  or  slavery  !  To  a  novice  like  myself  while 
attending  these  durbars  and  not  understanding  one  syllable  of  the 
language  used  at  the  court,  senteneea  or  signals  of  death  passed  un- 
observed. I  mention  this  to  express  my  opinion  that  though  such  took 
place  Mtesa's  disposition  was  nut  savage  ;  he  presided  at  the  durbar  of 
hia  ministry,  he  was  the  chosen  of  the  principal  chieftains  in  his  land, 
and  was  l>ound  to  carry  out  the  hereditary  customs  of  his  country. 
I  When  Speke  held  up  his  hand  to  stay  the  S|>ear  of  the  king  who  sought 
Fto  take  the  life  of  a  woman,  the  king  was  not  a  savage,  he  listened  to 
I  the  appeal,  and  the  woman's  life  was  saved.     This  interference  never 


482 


GE0GIL\PH1CAL  NOTES. 


changed  the  feeling  of  tJie  king  to  Speke,  and  at  the  moment  of  bidding 
adieu  to  Mt€Ba  we  could  not  but  show  emotion  and  gratitude  for  the  , 
hoHpitulity  and  frientkhip  shown  us. — J.  A.  Gilvnt." 

Mr.  O'Neill's  Expedition  from  Mozambique  to  Lake  SMrwa. — ^We 

Hmvo  received  the  following  letter  from  Mr,  O'Neill,  written  when  on  th6 

|t>oint  of  starting  on  the  new  journey  of  exploration  he  has  undertaken 

I  to  Lake  Shirwa: — "June  11th,   1883.     I  write  thip  from  the  village  of 

[ Kgambo,  just  beft>re  making  my  final  start  from  the  ooast.     I  have  liad 

l4nuch  difficulty  in  procuring  guides  and  can-iers,  but  hope  to  get  atmy 

D-monow  with  a  compact  little  party  of  thirty,  my  favourite  numbor. 

This  village  is  situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river  of  tho  fiame 

J  iname,  and  its  position  I  have  fixed  during  the  past  four  days  (long. 

Vhy  chronometer,  watch  having  only  just  been  rated)  as,  lat.  15°  3'  24''  S., 

Hong.  40"*  31'  45"  E.    The  liver  at  this  point  is  between  80  and  100  yard* 

broad  and  three  and  four  feet  deep,  but  in  the  rains  it  overflows  iU 

fllwnks  considerably,  and  judging  from  the  points  the  natives  tell  me  it 

teaches,  I  should  siiy  it. has  already  fallen  eight  or  ten  feet.     I  think  it 

right  I  should  tell  you  that  from  information  I  have  the  past  few  months 

receivedj  I  ara  beginning  to  doubt  if  tho  Lujenda  docs  take  its  source  in 

Lake  Kilwa  or  i^hirwa.     At  all  events  there  is  a  considerable  difference 

of  opinion  amongst  the  native  traders  who  travel  in  those  districts. 

Many  tell  me  that  the  Lujenda  rises  in  a  lake  called  Amaramba  or 

Mnaremba.      One  who  says  that  he  pas.'<ed  from  the  Lako  Kilwa  to 

['Amaramba  last  year,  declares  there  is  no  connection  between  them,  and 

L|he  ground  rises  considerably  between  the  two.      He  describes  Lake 

'Amaramba  as  a  long  lake  much  smaller  than  Kilwa^  but  as  having  two 

iHlande  in  it.     May  it  not  be  that  the  lako  seen  by  Mr.  Johnson  and 

supposed  by  him  to  be  tho  Shirwa  was  this  Lake  Amaramba?     I  only 

give  you  tliuso  reports  for  what  they  arc  worth.     You  know  best  what 

fuiindation    there   is   for   Mr.   Johnson's   supposition,    and    can    judge 

between  them.     I  shall  of  course  endeavour  to  settle  the  doubt  in  this 

journey." 

Lupton  Bey  and  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal. — Wo  have  been  favoured  by 
BIt.  T.  p.  Hearno  with  copies  of  lottei-a  ho  haa  lately  received  from  hia 
relative  Lupton  Bcy»  Governor  of  the  Egyptian  Province  of  Bahr-eU 
Ghazal.     in  Kovember  Last  he  was  at  Anyower,  a  remote  station  on  the 
road  to  Sultan  Mofio's  country,  Bil^atod,  as  far  as  we  can  gather,  son»3 
distance  to  the  west  of  26*^  E.  long.     The  country  haa  never  yet  been 
explored  by  Europeans,  although  visited  by  ivory  traders ;  Lupton  Bey 
describes  it  as  very  picturesque,  well-watered,  and  richly-wooded ;  the 
route  Ijing  through  forests  so  dense  that  the  sun  is  unable  to  penetrate 
tho  thick   interlacing    foliage    overhead.      Elephants    abound;    their 
trumpeting  and  the  noise  made  as  they  crash  through  tho  treea  dis- 
turbing tho  stiUness  of  the  isolitudes.      Monkeys  also  axe  frequently 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


48a 


I 


clambermg  along  the  woody  creepers  that  wind  round  irom  ti'cc  to 
tree.  The  natives  belong  to  tho  Bunder  Krctch,  Aga,  and  Gobo  tribes, 
last  mentioned  being  cannibals  and  very  low  in  the  scale  of  cnlturo, 
women  going  entirely  naked  and  the  men  wearing  only  a  coarse 
waist-cloth  of  their  own  nxanufacturo.  It  is  satisfactory  to  learn  that 
Lnpton  Bey,  who  is  a  competent  surveyor,  is  drawing  a  map  of  tliis 
remote  part  of  Central  Africa.  IIo  was  engaged  at  the  time  in  recruiting 
a  negro  force  to  act  against  the  JMahdi  and  his  fanatical  army  of  Arabs 
and  Arabised  Nubians  who  are  ravaging  the  provinces  immediately  to 
the  north  of  Lnpton  Boy's  government.  His  oommunioations  appear 
not  to  be  entirely  shut  off,  as  ho  was  able  in  September  to  visit  Khartum 
and  bring  away  supplies  for  his  stations.  The  steamers  which  occa- 
sionally run  between  Khartum  and  the  Bahr-el-Ghazal  have  hitherto 
made  for  Mcshra  el  Tick,  near  the  junction  of  the  Kyt  with  the  Ghazal 
river,  which  has  been  for  many  years  the  terminus  of  navigation  on  the 
Ghazal,  and  therefore  the  outport  of  the  whole  region ;  but  Lupton 
mentions  that  a  steamer  was  being  built  at  Kliartum  of  draught  light 
pnough  to  navigate  the  Djur  tributary  of  the  Ghastal,  and  that  he 
intends,  when  it  is  finished,  transferring  the  outport  to  Wau,  about 
80  miles  further  to  the  south-west.  Ho  speaks  in  high  tenuis  of  tho 
fertility  of  the  country ;  excellent  timl)or,  next  to  ivory,  is  the  chief 
article  exported  to  Khartum.  The  Nyam  Nyams,  short,  thick-set,  red 
men,  make  excellent  sokliers,  thoroughly  reliable  to  act  against  the  army 
of  the  false  prophet.  Luittun  Bey  carries  out  the  anti-slavery  policy 
with  unflinching  rigour.  All  ivorj^  is  now  bought  in  a  legitimate  waj' 
with  trade  goods. 

[^  J  The  Congo. — Mr.  IT.  Johnston,  the  naturalist,  who  accompanied 
X.ord  Mayo  on  his  joiu-ney  to  tho  Cunene,  and  afterwards  proceeded  to 
the  Congo,  has  returned  to  Europe  bringing  the  news  that  Mr.  Stanley 
on  tho  Ist  of  May  was  preparing  to  start  from  Leopoldville,  with  a 
flotilla  of  thiee  steamers  and  many  native  canoes,  on  a  voyage  up  the 
river  to  the  Stanley  Falls,  a  distance  of  about  one  thousand  miles.  He 
also  reports  that  Mr.  Stanley  had  formed  alliances  with  various  chiefs 
who  own  the  territory  along  the  north  bank  of  the  Cojigo  for  a  long 
distance  beyond  Stanley  Fool,  and  had  signed  treaties  with  a  view  to 
checkmating  M.  do  Brazza ;  but  the  news  from  the  headquarters  of 
the  Intel-national  Association  at  Brussels  is  to  the  effect  that  Mr.  Stanley 
ta^  stringent;,  orders  to  maintain  a  friendly  underatanding  with  the 
French  Expedition,  and  to  show  deference  to  the  rights  acquired  by 
France  ou  the  Congo.  Tho  frequent  deaths  of  Europeans  on  the 
International  establishment  on  the  river  has  necessitated  a  succession  of 
new  appointments.  Tho  last  arrivals  announfrod  have  been  M.  Theodore 
Westmar  and  M.  Estcn  Sunvallson,  two  Swedish  gentlemen,  Lieutenant 
ft  Waverings  of  the  Belgian  Army,  and  Mcssra.  Talmarts  and  Befrere,  who 
I  all  appear  to  have  joined  Mr.  Stanley  above  tho  falls;    others   have 


I 


I 


iSi 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


reinforced  tlie  stations  lower  down.  Among  them  M.  Eoger,  ■who  hu 
arrived  with  two  whalo-boatB  destined  to  keep  open  communicationa 
along  the  reaches  of  smooth  water  between  the  stations  laanghila  and 
Manyanga.  Wo  hear  also  of  the  appointment  of  two  well-known 
English  geographers,  Sir  Frederic  Gohbmid  and  Mr.  E.  Delmar  Morgan. 
Mr.  Johnston  reports  the  death  of  two  more  Belgian  oflScera.  It  appears 
that  jnst  before  Lieutenant  de  Brazza's  arrival  with  the  French  Expe- 
dition, the  agents  of  the  Belgian  International  Association  had  taken 
possession  of  an  important  position  on  the  Loango  coast,  viz.  the  mouth 
of  the  Kuilii,  which  M.  do  Brazza  had  intended  to  secure,  as  the  starting- 
point  for  his  direct  road  via  the  Niari  Yalley,  to  the  navigable  -waters  of 
the  Congo  above  the  falls.  Finding  Kuiln  occupied  he  proceeded  some 
twenty  miles  furtiier  south  to  Loiingo  and  Funta  Negra,  where  the 
French  flag  was  hoisted.  The  distance  from  these  points  of  the  coast  to 
Brazzaville  on  the  Upper  Congo,  whither  Dr.  Ballay  has  been,  sent  in 
advance,  vi&  the  Ogowo,  is  in  a  straight  line  about  280  miles. 

Annexations  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea. — A  tract  of  the  West  African 
coafit  extending  about  70  miles  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Mansa  river 
(the  frontier  of  Liberia)  to  Sherbro,  has  recently  been  added  to  the 
British  possessions.  This  has  been  followed  by  the  annexation  by  the 
French  of  the  native  state  of  Porto  Nuovo,  lying  midway  between 
Whydali  and  Lagos.  The  negotiatioTis  for  the  latter  were  condncte<i 
by  Captain  Borics  of  the  French  Navy,  commanding  the  corvetft 
Dujietit-TJiouara^  and  brought  to  a  conclusion  on  the  2nd  of  April. 

Progress  of  the  French  on  the  Upper  Niger.  —  Colonel  BorgoiB 
Desbordea  1ms  betn  succussful  in  his  operations  on  the  Upper  Niger. 
In  two  months,  March  and  April  last,  he  conistrncted  a  fort  at  the 
important  native  trading  settlement  of  Bammaku  on  the  river,  repulsing 
many  attacks  of  the  natives  under  their  chief  Samory.  The  electric 
telegraph,  in  May  last,  was  mounted  in  the  place,  and  a  line  of  fort* 
now  connects  St.  Louis  with  the  Niger. 

Recent  Journey  in  the  Bamangwato  Country. — At  a  time  when  we 
hear  80  much  of  the  distmhed  state  of  the  interior  of  South  Africa,  the 
following  extract  from  a  letter  written  by  our  associate  Mr.  R  C. 
Williams,  at  Shoshong,  may  be  interesting  as  showing  how  the  native 
districts  west  of  the  Transvaal  at  least,  can  be  traversed  with  safety, 
and  apparent  enjoj'ment,  by  an  English  gentleman  accompanied  by  his 
wife  and  son  seven  years  old :  •'  Here  we  are  after  travelling  along  the 
Limjwpo,  and  across  the  Marico  and  Notuani  rivers.  After  leaving  the 
Limpopo,  we  had  about  75  miles  of  thirst  to  travel  through,  'without 
water.  We  were  fortunate  in  meeting  Mr.  John  Bennion  on  the  river, 
and  he  came  out  with  us  and  showed  us  the  way.  He  is  a  trader  and 
has  a  house  here.  The  countr^^  belongs  to  Khame,  chief  of  the  Bamang- 
watos.  The  town  (native)  has  about  8000  inhabitants,  the  tribe 
numbering  about  20,000.     Khame  is  away  at  war,  and  Khamane,  his 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


485 


^be 


,  is  now  regent  Khamftne  is  giving  mo  boys  to  go  on  to  the 
Matabele  country  (the  people  with  whom  they  are  at  war),  and  on  the 
borders  of  that  country,  at  Tati,  I  shall  have  to  leave  Mrs.  Williams, 
and  ride  120  miles  to  Gubuluwayo  (Lo  Bengula'a)  to  get  other  boya  and 
guides.  Thence,  if  well,  I  Khali  return  to  the  Tati  and  start  on  with 
Mrs.  Williams  and  the  little  boy  to  the  Victoria  Falls  on  the  Zambesi. 
As  all  depends  on  Lo  Bengula,  who  is  a  tickliBh  customer,  I  do  not  count 
on  it  yet.  Travelling  from  the  Tati  to  the  Victoria  Falls  you  retich 
Panda  ma  Tenka,  there  you  leave  your  wagon  and  walk  sixty  miles  to 
tie  Falls.  For  a  little  calico,  I  shall  be  able  to  get  Mrs.  WiUianiA 
carried  in  a  litter." 

Nordenskiiild's  Greenland  Expedition. — Mr.  Oscar  Dickson  of  Gothen- 
Imrg  has  received  a  letter  from  Professor  Nordenskioldj  dated  Eeikiavik, 
Juno  8th.  The  commuuication  concludes  as  follows  : — "  Thanks  to  the 
kindness  8ho%vn  to  us  in  Denmark,  our  supply  of  coals,  a  material  indis- 
pensable to  the  success  of  the  expedition,  was  assured  in  Thurso, 
Reikiavik,  Irigtuk,  and  one  of  the  colonies  in  Northern  Greenland. 
There  have  come  with  iis  as  passengers  from  Gothenburg  Count 
|»8tromfelt  and  Messrs.  Flink,  mineralogist^  and  Arpi,  philologist,  who 
"  contemplate  travelling  for  the  purpose  of  study  in  Iceland  during  the 
summer.     On  the  evening  of  the  23rd  of  May  we  loft  Gothenburg  in 

ionr  steamer  the  Sophia.  About  noon  on  the  31st  wo  steamed  through 
the  straits  between  the  Gre^t  and  Little  Dimmon  in  the  Faroe  Isles, 
On  the  evening  of  the  following  day  we  came  in  sight  of  Iceland;  but 
as  the  sky  was  so  much  overchmded  as  to  prevent  any  observations  of 
iho  sun  being  taken  and  there  are  no  sea-marks  on  the  east  coast  of  Ice- 
land, we  were  unable  to  see  the  narrow  entrance  to  the  small  bay  for 
which  we  were  steering.  We  only  succeeded  in  finding  it  after  wo  had 
got  nearer  the  land  and  steamed  along  the  coast  for  a  couple  of  hours. 
At  11  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  reached  liandtQord  (Red  Gulf)  and 
an  hour  and  a  half  later  we  cast  anchor  in  Eskefjord,  a  I>ay  adjacent 
to  liandiQord.  Here  Count  Stromfelt  and  M,  Flink  wore  landed  in 
Hbrdcr  to  pursue  their  work.  On  the  3rd  of  June  all  the  scientific 
^■tnen  of  the  company  made  an  excursion  with  the  Sophia  to  the  Ilel- 
gurstadz  lime  «i^iiarry,  situated  about  10  kilometres  (or  six  miles)  from 
Eskefjord,     It  is  one  of  the  most  renmrkablo,  and  in  a  physical  point  of 

I  view,  most  important  spots  for  minerals  in  the  world,  and  we  took 
irarious  photographs  of  it.  On  the  5th  of  June  wo  sailed  for  Reikiavifc. 
At  iirst  the  weather  was  splendid,  but  later  a  thick  mist  came  on  nnd  aa 
aomo  fishermen  who  met  us  would  not  venture  to  pilot  us  we  had  to 
make  the  attempt  by  ourselves.  Wo  succeeded  pretty  well,  although 
rather  slowly,  and  at  one  o'clock  in  the  night  we  cast  anchor  before  the 
chief  town  of  the  island.  Wo  were  fortunate  in  not  being  detained  by 
tho  mist,  for  on  the  7th  of  June  there  was  another  violent  storm,  which 
I irc vented  an  excursion  planned  by  Dr.  Nathorst  to  Hredravand,  an 
important  locality  for  petrified  plant«.     I  have  taken  in  thirty  tons  of 


486  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

coal,  had  the  engine  inspected,  and  landed  Dr.  Arpi.  On  the  ■ 
of  July  1  shall  proceed  on  mj'^  voyage  if  the  weather  is  favourahlc.  AD  1 
with  whom  we  have  oome  in  contact  here  (in  Keikiavik)  have  reocircd 
ns  with  the  greatest  distinction,  and  everyhoily,  even  the  common 
people,  appears  to  have  been  raado  aware  by  the  Iceland  newgpapoh 
of  the  object  of  our  expedition.  Would  that  wo  had  had  more  time  iu 
make  ouraelves  better  acquainted  with  thia  remarkable  land,  a  bad 
which,  as  regards  the  history  of  civilisation  in  the  north,  may  bo  t*!rined 
classical.     The  crow  ia  in  the  best  of  health.     All  well  on  board." 

The  Circumpolar  Meteorological  Stations. — Preparations  are  now 
being  made  for  relieving  and  bringing  home  the  observing  parties  who 
spent  last  winter  and  epring  at  the  various  circumpolar  stations;  it  nut 
being  intended  to  continue  tho  observations  after  tho  lat  of  September, 
The  Pota  is  already  on  her  way  to  Jan  Mayen  to  embark  the  Austro- 
Iluugarian  party,  and  tho  Swedish  gunboat  Urd  is  about  to  start  fo: 
Spitzl>orgen  on  a  similar  eiTand.  It  is  reported,  as  a  hopeful  drctnn-3 
atauce  for  the  deliverance  of  the  Dutch  expedition  who  have  winteredj 
iu  the  Kara  Sea,  that  the  ice  ia  in  a  favourable  condition. 

Dr.  EdwLE  Heath^s  Map  of  the  Eiver  Beni. — Dr.  Ueath  has  supplie 
tis  with  the  following  information  regarding  the  observations  on  whicT 
he  has  fixed  the  positions  in  hie  map  of  tho  Beni  rivor  published  in  tliK^ji 
Juno  number  of  the  '  Proceedings ' ;   the  latitude,  as  may  have  beejg^^ 

observed,  of  Beyes,  and  of  other  places  dependent  on  it,  differs  vcrr. -^t 

greatly,  and  the  longitude  to  a  less  extent,  from  all  previous  majifi.     I^^i 
says  that  during  his  stay  at  Reyes  he  took  many  observations  for  t^^^ 
latitude  of  the  place,  and  all  gave  14^  W  34-5"  S.     Tho  longitude 
Reyes  was  calculated  from  a  mean  of  22  lunara,  which  exceeded 
timed  distance,  taking  the  position  of  Santa  Ana  on  the  Yacuma,  from! 
Gibbon  and  Keller.     He  had  corrected  three  watches  to  sure  time  when  | 
at  Santa  Ana  on  tstai-ting  thence  for  Keyes,  and  had  noted  tho  difference 
of  time  on  arriving  at  the  latter  place.     Returning  to  Santa  Ana  by  tie 
river  Yacuma,  ho  had  again  timed  the  distance,  and  also  a  third  time 
from  Santa  Ana  to  Reyes,  when  he  returned  from  his  cxploi-ation  down 
tho  Beni.     lie  is  convinced  that  the  jioeitions  of  places  on  his  nap  will 
not  be  found  to  err  in  latitude  the  fraction  of  a  second,  and  in  longitudt; 
10  minutes. 

The  Crevaux  Expedition, —The  Paris  Geographical  fcJociety  hai  re- 
ceived from  M.  Thuuar,  a  Frenchman  residing  in  Peru,  a  oommnmoation 
stating  that  some  of  the  members  of  the  Crevaux  Kxpodition  are  still 
alive.  Writing  from  Tacna  on  the  IGth  of  May,  M.  Thouar  says  that  he 
was  then  on  tho  point  of  starting  for  Bolivia  in  order  to  visit  the  native 
Indian  tribes,  by  one  or  other  of  whom  the  traveller  and  a  number  of  his 
companions  were  murdered.  M.  Thouar's  first  object  will  bo  to  find  tb 
Indian  Calinis,  who  acted  as  guide  to  the  expedition,  and  who  hetwecu 
the  20th  and  26th  of  April  conducted  the  French  travellers  from  Irnafo 


QE0GIUPHK2AL  lfOT£S.  487 

Teyo,  It  appears  that  Calinis  vna  aware  of  the  intenti6n  of  the  tribe,  of 
the  Tohos  to  attack  the  expedition,  and  he  is  reported  to  have  given  Dr. 
Orevaux  warning  to  that  effect.  M.  Thenar  purposes  further  to  seek  out 
the  Indian  Yahamahna,  who  was  the  first  to  bring  intelligence  of  the 
butchery  to  Tarija ;  and  likewise  to  inquire  into  the  fate  of  the  members 
of  the  expedition  who  fell  as  captives  into  tho  hands  of  the  Tobas.  It 
appears  almost  certain  that  the  companions  of  Br.  Crevaux  were  not  all 
destroyed.  The  French  steersman  Haurat,  the  Argentine  sailor  Blanco; 
and  a  Bolivian  named  Sodriguez,  as  well  as  the  cook  and  the  Indian 
Lengnaras,  all  escaped  with  their  lives.  The  young  Senor  Coballos,  who 
also  accompanied  Dr.  Crevaux,  is  reported  to  have  been  kept  prisoner  by 
the  Tobas  from  April  27th  to  August  1st  last  year,  and  to  be  now  in 
captivity  at  Caiza.  With  his  letter,  M.  Thouar  inclosed  extracts  from 
two  of  the  local  newspapers,  one  of  which  gives  the  following  particu- 
lars :  "  When  those  who  were  in  the  pin^ues  saw  the  Indians  proceed- 
ing to  deeds  of  violence,  they  leaped  into  the  water,  but  were  pursued 
by  the  savages,  who  captured  young  Francisco  Oeballos.  His  father  was 
also  caught  in  the  middle  of  tho  rivor  and  at  once  put  to  death.  Only  the 
French  sailor  Haurat,  and  Blanco,  the  Argentine,  escaped,  which  they  did 
by  rapidly  swimming  to  the  further  bank  of  the  Pilcomayo  and  concealing 
themselves  in  tho  forest.  Up  to  the  present  time  it  is  not  known  what 
has  become  of  them.  The  interpreter  Iramaje  was  captured  and  carried 
off.  Tho  bodies  of  the  slain  were  in  some  cases  thrown  into  the  river, 
in  others  left  on  the  spot  where  they  were  slaughtered.  Only  tho  body 
of  Dr.  Crevaux  was  taken  away  by  tho  Tobas  in  solemn  procession  to  a 
neighbouring  camp,  where  the  savages  passed  the  night  and  the  follow- 
ing day  in  singing  and  dancing.  Afterwards  they  burled  the  corpse  on 
a  conspicuous  eminence,  at  a  spot  called  Curo-Varuchai,  situated  to  the 
east  of  Pilcomayo."  These  particulars  were  obtained  by  the  local  papers 
from  the  Indian  interpreter  Chirugnano,  who,  after  a  captivity  of  some 
duration,  succeeded  at  length  in  escaping  from  the  hands  of  the  Tobas. 
The  late  Captain  H.  J.  Harman,  £.£.— A  biographical  notice  of  this 
accomplished  officer,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  Trans-Himalayan 
work  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India,  was  given  by 
General  Walker,  the  Surveyor-General,  in  the  Royal  Engineers* 
*  Journal '  of  May  Ist.  Captain  Harman  became  known  to  geographers 
in  Europe  through  tho  valuable  contribution  he  made  towards  the 
solution  of  the  Sanpo-Brahmaputra  problem,  by  despatching  a  Tibetan 
specially  trained  by  himself  to  continue  the  exploration  of  the  Banpo 
below  Chetang,  the  farthest  point  known  at  that  time,  viz.  in  1877.  A 
short  account  of  this  journey,  illustrated  by  a  map,  was  published  by 
General  Walker  in  the  *  Proceedings '  of  *he  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal 
for  August  1879.  The  exploration  extended  our  knowledge  of  the 
Sanpo  down  to  within  90  miles  of  the  known  part  of  the  Dihong,  the 
principal  affluent  of  the  Brahmaputra,  with  which  the  Sanpo  -was 
considered  by  Harman  to  be  continuous,  and  it  further  revealed  an 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

tinexpected  northern  bend  of  the  river  below  Chetang,  and  brought  to 
our  knowledge  the  reasons  why  this  portion  of  the  great  river  haa 
remained  unknown.  The  country  is  rugged  and  mountainous  and 
peopled  by  wild  tribes  who  raurdor  all  strangers.  No  living  man,  m 
General  Walker  Btates,  is  known  to  have  travelled  either  down  the  u 
yet  uncertain  portion  of  the  Sanpo,  or  up  the  as  yet  uncertain  portion 
of  the  Dihong.  Captain  Ilarman  died  on  the  14th  of  April  at  Florence, 
from  tubercular  pneumonia,  contracted  by  exposure  and  hardship  during 
his  service  on  the  survey.  He  had,  two  years  before,  in  his  enthusiasm 
and  love  of  his  work,  spent  a  night  at  the  foot  of  the  Donkia  Pass,  on 
the  border  between  Northern  Sikkirn  and  Tibet,  and  lost  half  his  loes 
through  frost-bite  on  the  occasion,  besides,  as  it  is  found,  laying  the 
seeds  of  the  malady  which  compelled  him,  still  a  young  man,  to  throw 
up  his  career  and  seek  recovery,  in  vain  as  it  happened,  in  Europe.  ^_ 
Captain  Harman  was  not  a  Fellow  of  our  Society.  ^M 

Mr.  Cuthbert  E.  Peek.— Our  associate,  Mr.  Peek,  who,  as  we  have 
already  recorded,  sailed  for  Queensland  as  one  of  the  observers  in  the  ^m 
Transit  of  Venus  Expedition  under  the  direction  of  Captain  Morris,  n.E.,  ^M 
has,  since  the  transit,  visited  New  Zealand,  and  studied  the  geysirs  and  ^| 
hot  apriugs  between  Tongariro  and  White  Island,  with  a  view  to  com-  ^M 
paring  them  with  the  sirailar  phenomena  which  he  had  examined  uu^| 
Iceland  in  1881.    Hr,  Peek  informs  us  that  he  has  observed  a  consider — - 
able  difference  between  them,  both  as  regards  their  movements  anc^^ 
appearance ;  this  is  especially  the  case  with  the  so-called  mud-springa^ 
for  while  the  matter  ejected  at  Hlitharnarmar,  in  the  North  of  loeland^^^H 
is  nearly  black,  that  thrown  up  by  the  New  Zealand  springs,  of  the^l 
same  class,  is  of  a  creamy  white  colour.    For  further  particulars  as  to 
the  differences  of  temperatures  and  analyses,  wo  must  await  Mr.  Feek« 
return   to   England. — Mr.   Peek   has   also  sent  us  the   longitudes,  u 
determined  by  electric  telegraph,  of  the  following  important  stations  ;— 

h,  m.  8CC, 

Singapore      Longittide    C  55  24-22  E. 

FcirtDurwIii „            8  43  21 -73  R 

Mellwunio      „            U  39  53-41  E. 

Adelaide        9  14  19-61  E. 

The  longitude  of  the  Observatory  of  Melbourne,  on  which  those  of  th^ 
other  positions  depend,  had  previously  been  fixed  by  a  series  of  inde- 
pendent astronomical  observations,  and  as  the  present  results  show,  with 
considerable  accuracy,  but  it  was  resolved  to  take  advantage  of  the 
Transit  of  Venus  Expedition  in  Queensland  to  determine  the  longitudes 
of  several  stations  with  greater  accuracy  than  had  hitherto  been  possible. 
A  meml>er  of  that  party.  Lieutenant  L.  Darwin,  u.i.,  undertook  the 
observations  at  Singapore,  the  position  of  which  had  already  been 
accurately  determined  by  electric  telegraph,  an  assistant  from  Mclbonrne 
was  sent  to  Port  Darwin,  which  is  in  telegraphic  communication  with 


OBITUARY.  489 

Singapore,  and  the  whole  was  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  EUery,  the 
Juperintendent  of  the  Melhoume  Observatory.  The  longitudes  of  the 
foregoing  stations  were  corrected  by  the  following  quantities : — Mel- 
bourne Observatory  by  1'4  sec.  of  time  or  21"  of  arc,  Adelaide 
)beervatory  by  1*7  sec.  of  time  or  25 '6"  of  arc.  The  position  of  the 
elegraph  station  at  Port  Darwin  as  given  on  the  Admiralty  Chart  is 
)  h.  43  m.  23  sec.  and  this  agrees  within  1  *27  see.  of  time,  or  19"  of  arc, 
irith  the  present  results.  The  corrections  made  in  the  positions  will 
therefore  amount,  in  the  case  of  the  Adelaide  Observatory  to  705  yards, 
ind  in  that  of  the  Melbourne  Observatory  to  560  yards. — The  expense 
)f  carrying  out  these  observations  was  shared  by  the  various  Aus- 
tralian Colonies,  the  work  being  justly  considered  of  public  importance, 
Tor  now  the  longitudes  of  all  places  in  telegraphic  communication  with 
my  of  the  foregoing  stations,  can  be  determined  with  accuracy,  thus 
jreatly  facilitating  the  production  of  reliable  maps  of  the  several 
x>lonies. 

Italian  Deep-Sea  Explorations  in  the  Mediterranean.  —  Professor 
Griglioli  embarked  at  Naples  on  the  25th  of  July  in  the  Italian  man-of- 
war  Washington^  to  resume  his  deep-sea  and  thalassographic  investiga- 
tions in  the  Mediterranean.  The  Washington  is  under  the  command  of 
Captain  G.  B.  Magnaghi,  Hydrographer  to  the  Italian  Navy.  It  is 
btended  to  make  a  complete  Physical  and  Biological  survey  of  the 
Mediterranean  and  its  connected  seas,  the  present  being  the  third  year 
of  the  explorations.  The  undertaking  is  under  the  patronage  of  the 
venerable  Accademia  dei  Lincei,  and  the  expenses  are  defrayed  by  the 
Government. 


William  Spottiswoode,*  President  of  the  Boyal  Society,  was  bom  in  1825. 
He  was  formerly  connected  for  many  years,  and  very  intimately,  with  the  Boyal 
Institntion  as  its  Secretary,  and  with  the  British  Association  as  its  Treasurer,  and 
otherwise  more  engaged  in  scientific  administration  than  any  of  his  contemporaries ; 
he  served  on  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  and  for  two  years, 
1862-64,  also  fulfilled  the  duties  of  Honorary  Secretary.  He  was  presumptive  heir 
to  a  large  property,  and  was  educated  at  Eton,  Harrow,  and  Oxford,  but  while  still 
residing  at  the  latter  place  he  was  suddenly  summoned  to  London  to  manage  under 
many  difficulties  the  business  of  his  father  as  Queen's  printer.  He  responded  bravely 
to  the  appeal,  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  characteristic  points  of  Mr.  Spottiswoode's 
honourable  career  that  during  the  whole  of  the  laborious  and  anxious  years  of  his 
early  manhood  be  contrived  to  set  aside  a  considerable  portion  of  each  day  for 
scientific  and  literary  pursuits.  He  thus  acquired  the  art  of  swift  and  thorough 
achievement,  by  means  of  which  every  scrap  of  his  time  was  utilised.  Moreover, 
having  an  intellectual  insight  of  the  highest  order  and  a  singularly  sound  judgment, 
all  his  work  stood  and  the  results  accumulated.    His  administrative  success  became 


*  By  Francis  Galtoo,  r.B.8. 
No.  Vm.— Auo.  1883.]  2  k 


490 


OBITUARY. 


80  great  that  it  seemed  to  beget  in  him  an  iDsatiable  desire  for  Biicb  laboor;  his 

mental  grasp  was  immense,  aud  consequently  few  have  passed  live*  oomptuabU 

to  his  in  their  usefulness  and  manj-Bldednesi;,    He  coutroUed  a  most  importaot 

("iffiiiting  establishment ;  ho  was  one  of  the  foremost  of  English  matbematiciann 

*'and  experimental   investigators;    he    was   the   leader  of   scientific    society,  and 

through  his  wide  relations  with  the  most  gifted  persons  of  various  claan  bis 

residences  in   to\vn   and  in  the  country  became  important  social  centres.    He 

was  also  actively  interested  in  the  well-being  of  the  hundreds  of  bis  emplo^ 

by  whom  he  was  warmly  beloved  and  generally  looked  upon  as  a  fjersonal  friend. 

In  short,  he  lived  the  fullest  of  lives  and^  it  is  to  ho  feared,  too  full  a  one,  fior 

1  he  was  prematurely  overworn,  and  when  at  last  he  was  persuaded  to  take  a  brief 

\  respite  from  labours  by  an  Italian  toiu-,  he  w^as  quickly  seized  upon  by  the  germs  of 

I  typhoid.     He  sickoned  soon  after  his  return  home,  and  died  on  the  27th  of  June 

last,  at  the  comparatively  early  age  of  fiftynjight,  in  the  plenitude  of  his  int-ellectual 

powers  and  with  a  largo  amount  of  investigation  into  the  theory  of  electricity,  in 

progre&q.    He  was  buried  in  Westminster  Abbey  in  the  presence  of  a  vast  oonoonne 

of  mourners,  including  a  large  pro[>ortion  of  those  who  are  most  eminent  in  timmpf^ 

literature,  and  art,  or  for  their  public  services. 

In  this  brief  notice  I  shall  dwell  almost  entirely  on  the  geographical  tastes  that 
,  formed  one  notable  side  of  Mr.  Spottiswoode'n  varied  character,  and  on  the  geo- 
'  •graphical  and  ethnological  pursuits  that  upwards  of  twenty  years  ago  filled,  perhaps, 
the  largest  portion  of  his  leisure  time.  He  had,  in  those  days,  a  jvissiou  fnr  Asiatic 
questions, topographical  and  philosophical ;  it  had  been  fostered  by  many  circumstaaoes^ 
\  one  of  which  was  a  considerable  effort  that  he  had  previously  made  to  discover  thes 
t'principleiJ,  purposely  disguised  as  they  are  in  fantastic  arithmetical  "  rules,"  througfcj 
^' which  Indian  astronomers  made  their  calculatioDS,  and  whether  those  principles  were 
indigenous  or  derived  from  Greek  sources.  Aliwut  that  time  we  shared  a  cotnmoi) 
interest  in  many  geographical  undertakings.  We  worked  together  as  the  two  Uoaorair 
Secretaries  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  during  what  we  both  considered  to  b<»  a 
very  critical  period  of  its  existence,  aud  to  which  1  will  not  further  allude.  We  ak> 
worked  together  at  the  Ethnological  Society.  Again  at  that  time,  the  Peninsula  yf 
Sinai  was  very  imperfectly  known  tuid  was  beginning  to  attract  attention ;  we  Ltd 
both  recently  returned  from  travel,  he  from  his  '  Tarantasso  Journey  through  Ea*t«ni 
Huasia  in  1856,*  and  I  from  South  Africa,  and  he  started  the  idea,  to  which  1  cordiaDy 
agreed,  that  we  should  together  make  a  survey  of  Sinai,  triangulating  the  main 
peaks  and  giving  especial  attention  to  the  wilderness  of  Et  Tih.  This  scbcnio  ftU 
through,  owing  to  a  serious  illness  of  my  own,  but  our  preparations  brought  us  into 
daily  oompanionship^  reading  and  noting  authorities,  studying  Arabic  and  prac- 
tising surveying,  and  in  the  whole  of  this  work  his  zeal,  judgment  and  thorongbnets 
struck  me  as  truly  remarkable.  At  this  time  he  devised  a  very  useful  arti  ficial  horiion 
consisting  of  a  piece  of  glass  floating  in  a  small  vessel  of  mercury,  and  had  it  wada 
by  one  of  his  own  workmen.  The  principle  was  afterwards  adopted  by  Captiun 
George,  and  the  instrument  is  now  largely  in  use  imder  the  name  of  Qeoi^» 
Artificial  Horizon.  He  also  devised  and  published  in  the  Joomol  of  the  Astio- 
Domical  Society,  a  methotl  and  accompanying  tables  for  calcubting  longiftnd«  by 
the  meridian  altitude  of  the  moon,  at  times  when  her  declination  is  rapidly  chftngiug. 
We  tried  the  jdan  together,  and  it  still  appears  to  me  to  deserve  more  attention 
than  it  has  received,  owing  to  the  much  greater  ease  and  accuracy  with  which 
observations  may  be  made  by  the  sextant  when  it  is  held  in  the  easy  poaitkm 
suitable  for  meridian  altitudes,  than  in  the  constrained  or  unsupported  podtioa 
usually  required  for  taking  lunar  distances,  A  memoir  by  Mr.  Spottiswoode, 
published  in  the  Royal  Geographical  Society's  Journal,  on  *  Typical  Mountain 


I 
I 


I 


OBITUART.  491 

Banges,'  is  charaoteristio  of  his  tastes  at  that  time.  It  is  an  ai^lieation  of  the 
mathematical  laws  of  prohalulity,  with  which  he  was  then  mnch  interested,  to  the 
question  whether  or  no  a  partionlar  series  of  mountain  ranges  ninning  at  various 
known  degrees  of  inclination  to  one  another,  could  or  could  not  be  reas(mably 
ascribed  to  the  same  disturbing  cause.  There  are,  I  fear,  few  besides  myself^  now 
living,  who  can  adequately  ttttify  to  his  keen  geographical  interests  in  those  days. 
I  can  think  of  three  persons  at  least,  who,  if  they  had  been  alive,  would  have  done 
so  most  emphatically.  They  are  Lord  Strangford,  the  profound  Oriental  geographer 
and  ethnologist,  Atkinson,  the  Siberian  traveller,  and  Dr.  Barth,  the  learned  African 
explorer.  Thoi^  Mr.  Spottiswoode  was  eminently  scientific  in  his  tastes,  I  cannot 
help  thinking  that  the  charm  which  geography  exercised  over  him  lay  more  in 
his  love  of  varied  landscape,  history,  and  human  character,  than  in  the  technically 
physical  part  of  the  science.  I  do  so  for  many  reasons,  one  of 'which  may  be  mentioned 
here  since  future  biographers  are  not  likely  to  be  aware  of  it,  namely  the  gift  he 
possessed  of  pictorial  imagination.  I  know  from  his  replied  to  my  questions  how 
vivid  it  was ;  it  enabled  him  to  do  amusing  feats  of  rapid  picture-memory  of  much 
tixe  same  class  as  those  recorded  by  Houdin  the  conjuror,  about  himself  and  his  son. 

C!onceming  the  serious  mathematical  and  physical  putsuits  of  his  life,  upon 
which  his  scientific  reputation  rests,  and  which  together  with  his  personal  ascendancy 
and  other  noble  qualities,  raised  him,  in  1879,  to  the  highest  position  that  a  scientific 
man  can  hold,  that  of  the  official  representative  of  science  in  England,  I  sliall  not 
speak  further  except  to  contribute  one  biographical  jotting.  I  quote  it  from  a  note 
written  to  me  in  answer  to  a  question  whether  he  considered  his  scientific  tastes  and 
success  to  be  dae  in  any  respect  to  personal  influences.  His  reply  was  "  my  interest 
in  mathematics  began  at  Oxford,  and  was  due  mainly  to  the  energy  and  encourage- 
ment of  my  tutor  Dr.  Temple  (Bishop  of  Exeter).**  He  added  on  a  subsequent 
occasion,  and  I  pencilled  it  down  from  his  mouth  at  the  time,  **but  Professor 
Donkin  first  inspired  me  with  a  sense  of  the  magnificence  of  mathematics." 

It  is  with  the  less  regret  that  I  stop  here,  because  I  feel  that  even  in  a  much  longer 
memoir  it  would  be  impossible  for  any  one  to  give  within  reasonable  bounds  a  just 
idea  of  the  multifarious  and  rich  results  of  Mr.  Spottiswoode's  vast  but  unobtrusive- 
activity.  He  loved  to  do  a  piece  of  good  work,  bringing  order  out  of  disorder,  efficiency 
out  of  entanglement,  thoroughly  and  finally,  and  then  to  dismiss  it  from  his  mind, 
and  begin  afresh  on  another.  He  was  one  of  the  best  and  fairest  of  chairmen.  Of  the 
many  able  scientific  men  with  whom  I  have  had  the  delight  at  various  times  of  work- 
ing, on  committees  and  elsewhere,  I  have  seen  none  who  were  his  superiors,  few,  if 
any,  who  were  his  equals,  in  the  art  of  what  I  may  call  constructive,  as  distinguished 
from  destructive  criticism,  for  he  had  peculiar  skill  in  detecting  and  eliminating 
the  faulty  elements  in  any  proposed  scheme,  and  in  reinforcing  the  good  ones. 
Thus,  although  he  did  not  speak  much  in  council,  he  was  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  valued  members  of  every  committee  on  which  he  was  ever  called  to  serve. 

Should  the  life  of  Mr.  Spottiswoode  be  hereafter  written  by  a  competent 
biographer,  his  name  will  assuredly  take  its  place  in  the  national  memory  as  one 
of  those  upon  whose  ability,  moral  character,  and  resolute  work,  the  credit  of  the 
English  nation  is  mainly  founded. 

General  Sir  Edward  Sabine,  RA.,  E.C.B.*— By  the  recent  death  of  Sir 
Edward  Sabine,  at  the  advanced  age  of  nearly  ninety-five  years,  the  Boyal  Geo- 
graphical Society  has  lost  an  old  and  distinguished  member.  Widely  known 
for  his  active  and  well-directed  researches  in  the  somewhat  obscure  science  of 
terrestrial  magnetism — researches  which  extended  over  a  period  of  more  than  fifty 


*  By  Captain  Sir  F.  J.  Evans,  K.C.B.,  w:b^ 

2  K  2 


492 


OBITUARY. 


years — ho  was  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  century  distinguisbed  as  a  traveller  of 
exceptionfti  scientific  attainments.  So  early  as  ia  tbo  years  181&-20  we  find  him 
prominently  employed  in  Arctic  enterprise,  accompanying,  as  the  official  astronamisr, 
the  ships  forming  tlie  fir^t  and  second  ex[>edition8  under  Ross  and  Parry,  fitted  out 
by  Government,  to  search  for  the  North-west  Passage,  as  assumed  to  lead  frum  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  lu  1822  we  find  him  again  officially  embarked  in  t 
ship  of  war,  making;  experiments  nt  selected  stations  near  the  Equator,  on  the 
Atlantic  coasts  of  Africa  and  America^  for  determining  the  variation  in  the  length  of 
the  seconds  pendulum  for  the  determination  of  the  figure  of  the  earth.  In  the  sub. 
sequent  year  these  observations  were  extended  by  him  to  Norway,  Greenland,  mil 
Spitzbergen. 

In  these  several  voyages,  undertaken,  it  may  be  observed,  at  a  time  when  scteooB 
was  scarcely  aroused  from  the  enforced  repose  consequent  on  the  French   revolu- 
tionary warsj  the   practical  and   sagacious  mind  of  Sabine  was  engaged  in  the 
eluicidation  by  exi>crimt'nt  of  various  questions  in  physical  science,  directly  connected 
either  with  the  art  of  navigation,  or  as  bearing  on  questions  of  interest  connected  with 
the  sea.     We  accordingly  find,  in  the  scientific  publications  of  ihe  day,  papers  "On 
the  irregularities  observed  in  the  direction  of  the  Compass-needles  of  the  Arctic  dis- 
covery vessels  Isalelia  and  Alexander,  caused  by  the  attraction  of  the  iron  contained 
in  the  ships "  ;  observations  **  On  the  Dip  and  Variation  of  the  magnetic  needle 
and  on  the  Intensity  of  the  magnetic  force,  made  during  a  voyage  in  search  of  a 
North-west  Passage";  "On  the  Force  of  Magnetism  compared  with  the  Dip" ;  "On 
the  Temperature  at  considerable  Depths  of  the  Sea  *' ;  "  On  the  method  of  investi- 
gating the  direction  and  force  of  the  Currents  of  the  Ocean  " ;  "  On  the  presence  oC  j 
the  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream  on  the  coasts  of  Europe";   "On  the  importanlr' 
distribution  as  affecting  navigation  between  the  Guinea  and  Equatorial  Carrenta". 
"On  the  depression  of  the  Horizon  of  the  Sea  over  the  Gulf  Stream";  "On  the 
Barometric  measurement  of  Mountains," 

These  several  researches,  combined  with  a  sound  knowledge  of  practical  astronomj 
and  a  skilled  use  of  the  most  refined  philosophical  instruments,  placed  Sabine  at  a 
comparatively  early  age  as  one  of  our  leading  working  men  of  science;  we  find 
him  accordingly  (in  1821)  as  a  Captain  of  Artillery  at  the  age  of  thirty-three  receiv- 
ing the  Copley  Medal  of  the  lloyal  Society,  he  having  been  elected  a  Fellow  of 
that  body  three  years  previously. 

In  the  long  interval  between  the  termination  of  Sabine's  ex{>erience8  afioat  (1823) 
and  his  resignation  of  ihe  Presidency  of  the  Royal  Society  in  1871,  after  ten  yean' 
occupation  of  that  eminent  position,  his  chief  labours  were  directeti  to  the  advance- 
ment of  our  knowledge  of  terrestrial  magnetism.  It  is  difficult,  within  the  limits  of 
a  necessarily  brief  memoir,  to  do  justice  to  what  he  accomplished  in  this  still  obecare 
but,  to  use  hia  own  words,  "  most  iuiixurtant  branch  of  the  physical  history  of  the 
planet  we  inhabit ; "  we  propose,  therefore,  to  alone  sketch  the  salient  features  of 
these  extended  researches.  They  may  be  clajised  under  two  heads  :  (1)  Terrettrial 
magnetism  prot>er,  or  the  distribution  over  the  surface  of  the  globe  of  the  elements 
known  as  the  variation  and  dip  of  the  freely  suspended  magnetic  needle  and  the 
magnetic  force  acting  tliereon.  (2)  The  forces,  chiefly  cosraical,  acting  at  every 
moment  of  time  uiKin  the  freely  suspended  needle  at  any  one  jilace ;  the  steady 
movements  of  the  needle,  obeying  certain  periodical  laws,  but  at  times  subject  to 
much  disturimnce  from  sj  asmodic  shocks  si nviilta neons  in  their  action  over  the  globe. 
"With  (1)  the  secure  navigation  of  sbiixs,  and  esjxjcialiy  those  of  iron,  is  inlimately 
connected ;  from  (2)  the  bond  of  magnetic  sympathy  between  our  earth,  the  sun,  and 
the'moon  is  assured,  though  the  design  ia  as  yet  veiled. 

Sabiue*8  remarkable  series  of  "Contributions"  to  the  * Philoaophical  Tna*- 
actions '  numbered  from  I.  to  XV.,  commenced  in  1840,  and  concluded  in  1876, 


OBITUART.  -493 

gives  full  details  of  the  distribution  of  the  magnetic  elements  over  the  globe,  for  a 
giveo  epoch  (IS-IC-S),  derived  from  every  contemporary  source.  For  the  future  de- 
velopment of  a  theory  of  terrestrial  magnetism  and  of  the  i^rt  it  pLiys  in  nature,  a 
.-al'i<ct  of  which  we  are  yet  in  ignorance,  these  **  Coutribuiions  "  and  his  several 
r-  iKiris  to  the  British  Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science,  which  included 
iua;zuetic  snrveya  of  the  British  Islands,  form  a  solid  foundation  for  pc«terity  to 
biuld  upon.  , 

The  introductory  discussions  to  the  obeerratioiks  (published  by  the  Government 
in  a  series  of  volumes)  made  for  some  years  at  the  Colooial  Magnetic  Observatories  of 
Toronto,  St.  Helena,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  Hoborton,  found»l  and  organised  also  at 
the  instance  of  Sabine, — partly  in  connection  with  the  memorable  Antarctic  Expedi- 
tion under  Jaraea  Roes  1839-43, — supplemented  by  special  papers  in  the  *  Philosophical 
Transactions,*  deal  with  the  perturbations  of  the  needle  as  due  to  coamical  causes, 
and  leave  little  to  add  to  in  this  branch  of  physics,  at  least  for  our  own  era,  from  the 
clear  and  exhaustive  manner  in  which  the  numerous  obsertratious  l^avo  been 
discussed. 

As  one  of  the  pioneers  in  Arctic  discovery  undertaken  during  this  century, 
Sabioe  fully  appreciated  the  energj'  and  other  admirable  qualities  fostered  and  dis- 
played in  Arctic  (and  Antarctic)  expeditions :  he  maintained  a  lively  interest  in  the 
many  subsequent  voyages,  and  was  a  trusted  adviser  of  the  Admiralty  thereon.  The 
preface  to  the  Russian  Von  Wran^ell's  narrative  of  an  expedition  to  Siberia  and  the 
Polar  Sea,  in  the  years  1820-23,  as  translated  by  Mrs.  Sabine  (1840)  from  the 
pmnan,  and  edited  by  Sabine  (an  enlarged  2nd  edition  appeared  in  1844)  is  an 
itemting  record  of  his  views  in  relation  to  the  existence  of  open  navigable  water 
in  the  Arctic  Seas,  and  to  the  striking  resemblance  in  the  configuration  of  the 
northern  coasts  of  the  continents  of  Asia  and  America  for  several  hundred  miles  on 
either  side  of  Behring  Straits,  as  features  bearing  on  future  research ; — views  largely 
oonfirmed  by  later  experiences. 

The  tnuislation  of  Alexander  Von  Humboldt's  'Cosmos'  by  Mrs.  Sabine  and 
edited  by  her  husband  (1846-58)  undertaken  in  compliance  with  the  wish  of  the 
author,  should  not  here  be  omitted.  The  illustrious  Gennan  traveller  and  geo- 
grapher held  the  gifted  couple  in  great  .esteem,  and  doubtless  the  charm  and  per- 
manent value  of  the  work  in  its  English  garb  is  enhanced  from  the  thorough 
grasp,  by  both  translator  and  editor,  of  the  great  array  of  facts  in  nearly  every 
branch  of  physical  science,  especially  of  Terrestrial  magnetism,  therein  brought 

I  under  review.  In  an  editorial  preface  Sabine  expresses  hiw  indebtedness  to  the 
earlier  writings  of  Hum V<ldt,  "  for  awakening  in  his  mind  a  L-isto  for  pursuits  which 
formed  a  large  jxirtion  of  his  interest  and  added  greatly  to  his  enjoyment  in  life." 
Whilst  *  Cosmos'  was  in  the  course  of  publication,  Sabine  became  a  member  of 
Ihe  Geographical  Society  (1852)  and  served  on  the  Council  for  some  years.  He  wus 
also  for  many  years  an  active  member  of  the  British  Association,  was  its  General 
Secretary  twenty-one  years,  and  President,  in  1853,  at  Belfast.  Sabine  was  bom  in 
Pnblin,  October  14th,  1788,  and  received  his  first  commission  in  the  Artillery  in 
December  1803,  having  been  educated  in    the  Military  Colleges  of  Marlow  and 

■  Woolwich ;  his  early  active  service  appears  to  have  Ijeen  limited  to  the  American 
Campaigns  of  1813-14;  attaining  the  rank  of  Lieut. -Colonel  in  1841,  he  retired  with 
the  rank  of  General  in  1874.  His  scientific  honours  at  the  hands  of  his  countrymen 
and  from  foreign  institutions  were  many  and  well  de8crve<l.  In  recognition  of  his 
public  services  in  the  cause  of  science,  he  was  created  k.c.b.  in  18C!>.  The  later 
years  of  Sabine  were  passed  in  close  retirement;  his  acoomjilished  wife,  who  hud 
aided  him  in  the  work  of  half  a  century,  died  in  1879,  and  the  veteran  of  science 
himself  passed  away  on  June  2Cth,  1883.  They  rest  near  each  other  in  the  family 
vftolt  at  Tewin,  in  Hertfordshire. 


(     494    ) 


KEPOKT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1882-83. 

Fourteenth  Meeting,  25th  June,  1883.— Major-Gcnoral  C.  P.  Riobt, 

in  the  Cliair» 
Prbsentatiox.— Gf.  S.  Morgan,  Esq. 

Elections. —  Wm.  Thomas  An$eU,  Esq.;  Au^j.  Baker,  Esq.  {U.  M.  Cotuhil, 
Khartum);  Edward  Shitckburgh  House, Esq. ;  Bev.  Jlugli  li.  CoHum;  Carl  Hoa^, 
Esq. ;  J.  Scott  Kdti'p,  Esq.;  Howard  John  Kennard,  Esq, ;  W.J.  H.  L.  Marchant^ 
E$q. ;  Edward  Arthur  Maund,  Esq.;  Septimus  Potter,  Esq. ;  Charles  D.  Jiaddife, 
Esq. ;  Eon.  Gordon  Sandeman  ;  F.  A.  A.  Simons,  -E*?-/  <^<wn  Van  der  EUt,  Es/j. 

Sir  John  Kirk,  K.c.M.a.,  read  the  following  paper,  which  the  author  bad  commu- 
nicated through  him  to  the  Society  : — 

"  A  Visit  to  the  Masai  People  living  beyond  the  Borders  of  the  Ngnni  Country.' 
By  J.  T.  Last  (of  MamMa,  Eaat  Central  Africa). 

The  paper  and  the  discussion  which  followed  the  reading  will  appear  in  a  sabae- 
quent  number  of  the  '  Prt>ceeding8.' 

At  the  concluBion  of  the  meeting,  which  was  the  last  of  the  SessioiL,  the  Chair- 
man announced  thut  the  next  meeting  of  the  Society  would  be  on  the  second  Monday 
in  November  next. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOKEIGN  SOCIETIES. 


Geographical  Society  of  Paris. — Jime  15th»  1883 :  M.  Ant.  D'Amahh, 
of  the  Institute,  in  the  Chair. — The  Minister  of  War  transmitted  two  roapa  of  Ute 
frontier  of  the  Alps,  sciile  1 :  80,000  and  1  :  320,000  respectively,  recently  published 
by  the  geographical  service  of  the  army.  At  the  same  time  tiie  chief  of  thi«  MTvicv, 
Colonel  Perrier,  of  the  Institute,  gavo  hope  of  the  erection,  at  no  diatajit  date,  of  a 
meteorological  observatory  on  the  stimniit  of  Aigoual  in  tho  Cevennes,  %  peak 
5142  feet  {1567  mfetres)  in  height. — Two  maps  of  Tongking  were  presented  to  the 
Society  by  their  respective  publiahers ;  one  by  M.  Mallard-Cressin,  scale  1 :  850,000 
(J.  Gaultier),  and  the  other  by  M,  Henri  Mager,  scale  1 : 0,500,000,  with  a  plan  of 
the  city  of  Hanoi  (Uh.  Bayle).— M.  Rougemeat,  an  engineer  at  Santiago,  sent  a 
map  of  the  South  of  Chili  Railway  between  Santiago  and  Angol ;  the  map  lias 
been  prepared  from  his  own  surveys  and  from  official  documeuta. — A  portrait  of 
Sebastian  Cabot  was  offered  to  the  Society  by  M.  Codine ;  it  is  a  photograph  taken 
firora  an  engraving  of  a  picture  p<unted  hy  Holbein  between  the  years  1547  and 
1554,  when  tho  artist  was  already  old.  The  original,  it  appears,  disappeared  from 
"Whitehall  Palace  at  the  time  of  the  sale,  made  under  CroraweU'a  orders,  of  the 
articles  which  belonged  to  Charles  L — The  Minister  of  Commerce  forwarded  a 
circular,  announcing  the  formation  in  his  department  of  a  service  fur  obtaining  com- 
mercial information,  llic  Bureau,  which  has  just  lieen  formed,  will  be  subject  to 
the  Cabinet  of  the  Minister,  and  will  centralise  all  information  relating  to  com- 
merce, industry,  and  navigation.  It  will  moreover  be  engaged  in  the  translation  of 
articles  in  foreign  technical  ivorks,  which  treat  of  these  matters,  llie  informatioo 
thus  obtained  will  be  communicated  to  the  public. — Three  short  paper*  on  the 
environs  of  Obock  (East  Africa)  were  communicated  in  writing  by  the  Minister  of 
Public  Instruction.  The  author  of  two  of  them  iti  M.  Aug,  Aubry,  civil  engioeer. 
They  have  reference  to  the  geology  of  Obock,  and  thin  is  the  first  time  that  thli 
subject  has  been  discussed.     The  third  paper,  whicli  is  by  Dr.  Hamon,  concerns  the 


^^ui.     I 


I 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


495 


imatology,  bjgieoe,  &c.,  as  well  as  tbe  fauna  and  flora  of  Obock.  At  the  same 
time  the  Society  received  a  letter  from  M.  Paul  Soleillet,  dated  February  3rd,  from 
Aukober.  In  this  letter  he  expresses  his  satisfaction  with  the  reception  ho  has  met 
\Titb  from  the  King  of  Shoa,  Menelik  II.,  who  really  reigna  over  the  po|)ulationa  of 
Obock.  M.  Soleilliit  stayeil  a  fortnight  in  this  latter  district,  as  well  as  at  Djeina 
and  Goma,  where  no  Eurojiean  had  up  till  then  penetrated.  As  tbe  results  of  his 
journey  to  Shoa,  Kaffa,  etc.,  which  lasted  in  all  three  montlis,  he  baa  made  nmneroos 
coUwtiong,  obtained  a  largo  amount  of  geographical  and  ethnographical  information, 
brought  bock  specimens  of  coffee,  the  plant  which  forms  the  underwoofl  of  all 
le  forests  from  the  river  Gueba.  A  letter  which  was  atldressed  to  M.  SoleiHet, 
id  the  contents  of  which  he  has  reproduced  in  his  own  communication,  charges 
e  Pacha  of  Zeila,  Aboubakar,  with  desiring  to  make  attempts  against  the  life 
of  M.  SoloiUeU  A  propos  of  this  it  is  stated  that  tbe  said  Pacha  is  responsible 
for  the  murder  of  MM.  Fran^oife  Lucereau  and  Pierre  Arnoox.  It  h  probable 
diat  the  diploma  of  an  honorary  member  of  the  Society  will  bo>  at  the  request 
of  M.  Soleillet,  granted  to  King  Menelik  in  consideration  of  the  protection  afforded 
by  him  to  travellers  and  merchants.  A  further  matter  concerning  Obock  is  con- 
tained in  a  document  addressed  to  the  Society  and  announcing  the  formation 
of  a  commercial  company,  under  the  following  appellation — **Les  Factorfries 
Franoaises  du  Golfe  Persique  et  de  TAfrique  Orientale."  The  object  of  the  company 
is  the  development  of  French  commerce  (export  and  import)  with  the  east.  It  has, 
lys  the  prospectus,  already  established  direct  relations  with  the  districts  of  Persia 
the  banks  of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates, "  where,"  to  use  its  own  words,  "  Eugland 
gages  in  annually,  according  to  official  statistics,  200  million  transactions  in 
English,  French,  and  other  produce."  Contraots  have,  it  appears,  already  been 
made  with  King  Menelik,  who  is  the  owner  of  all  the  riches  of  his  own  kingdom  and 
lOf  the  neighbouring  countries  under  his  sway.  •Under  these  contracts  the  company 
gages  to  convey  to  Obock,  at  its  own  expense  and  risk  and  in  its  caravans,  all 
i«  goods  which  the  king  orders  and  to  convey  them  at  fixed  prices ;  the  money  is 
lUo  to  be  taken  by  its  caravans  and  at  ita  own  expense  to  Obock,  the  place  of  mutual 
change.  The  company  baa  sent  to  tbe  king,  at  his  request,  a  doctor,  and  also  a  mining 
gineer  to  explore  the  mines  of  coal,  copper,  gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones,  which 
ist  at  Sboa.  A  central  factor)'  has  been  established  by  th^  company  in  this  same 
place  (Obock),  at  the  exit  of  tbe  Rtxl  Sea  and  a  few  hours'  journey  from  the  English  port 
leD. — The  Syndical  Chamber  of  Exix)rt  Commerce,  i<f  which  M.  A.  Person  is  tbe 
'resident,  seut  a  report,  which  was  unanimously  adopted  by  the  Chamber,  with 
fifereoce  to  tbe  founding  of  hourtes  de  voyage  in  favoTir  of  young  Frenchmen  who 
ttnt  the  schools  of  commerce  with  diplomas.  The  rejiort  goes  on  to  state  that 
&>Ance,  considering  her  population,  furnishes  perhaps,  in  point  of  commerce,  less 
.rticlcs  to  tbe  foreigner  than  any  other  country,  e8|icciaUy  if  we  comfiare  her  to 
England,  Germany,  Switzerland,  or  Italy.  It  is  with  the  object  of  putting  an  end 
this  state  of  thiogij  that  tbe  Chamber  in  question  proposes  to  make  an  appeal  to 
all  the  French  Chambers  of  Commerce,  to  the  Syndical  Chajtibcrs  of  Paris,  and  to 
all  who  arc  interested  in  tlie  development  of  French  exiwrt  commerce,  in  order  to 
se  the  necessary  capital  for  founding  the^^e  huurms  de  voyage,  Tbe  young  men 
Liia  maintained  will  correspond  monthly  ^-ith  the  Export  Chamber,  and  a  nfsume 
tbe  correspondence  will  be  issued  every  three  znonths  to  the  subscribers.— General 
'ennkoS^  who  had  just  received  from  Kussia  a  printed  account  of  M.  Pr^jevalsky's 
ird  journey  in  Central  Asia,  presented  this  volume  to  the  meeting.  lie  stated 
,t  tho  total  length  of  the  itineraries  of  the  Busstan  traveller  was  14,023  miles 
,530  kilometres),  that  he  has  made  topographical  surveys  .over  7535  miles 
12,125  kilometres)  of  country,  before  entirely  unexplored ;  that  be  has  dctecmioed 


49e 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


the  latitude  of  48  points  and  the  altitude  of  212  others.    He  has  collflctod  6000 

plftnts^  3425  birds,  976  reptiles,  423  fishes,  and  408  mammifers,  besides  obtaining 
a  considerable  number  of  antbrofological  and  ethnograpbicil  facts  and  slatiatic*.  At 
the  present  moment  tlie  indefatigable  traveller  is  a^ain  starting,  and  will  prooe«d  to 
Eiakta  in  order  to  continue  his  explorations  in  Central  Asia.  He  will  visit  the 
north-west  part  of  Tibet.  He  has  an  escort  of  twenty  Cossacks,  and  is  pruvi'isd 
with  victuals  and  all  that  is  necessary  for  a  two  years'  journey  in  the  deseit. 
M.  Venukofl'also  istatetl  that  it  is  now  possible  to  travel  Jrom  the  Black  Sea  to  the 
Caspian  in  thirty  hours,  the  railway  between  these  two  seas  being  open. — M.  Romaoet 
dn  Ciiillaud  communicated  a  jiaper  on  the  subject  of  the  Suzerainty  of  Cliina  aad 
the  Protectorate  of  France  over  Aonam.  The  papier,  which  could  not  be  read  at  the 
meeting  on  account  of  its  length,  will  be  insertetl  in  the  quarterly  Bulletin. — It  ii 
probable  that  we  shall  at  last  be  able  to  arrive  at  some  definite  conclusion  as  to  the 
existence,  number,  and  nationality  of  the  former  membor*  of  the  Crevaux  mission, 
who  are  said  to  be  still  alive  and  detained  us  prisoners  among  the  Tobas.  AL  Thonar, 
who  is  travelling  in  South  America  and  who  has  just  traversed  Colombia  especially, 
wrote  from  Santiago  (Chili)  on  3rd  February  that  as  soon  as  he  arrived  at  La  Paz 
he  intended  to  proceed  to  the  south  and  follow  up  the  route  taken  by  Crevaux  to 
Tup^.  There  he  would  gain  information  from  the  Indians  who  hold  commaoica- 
tions  with  the  Tolx\s,  then,  having  full  particulars,  he  would  determine  the  most 
practicable  way  to  attain  the  object  of  hia  enterprise.  He  thought  it  would  be  beet 
to  proceed  to  the  tribe  of  the  Tobas  alone  and  without  any  escort,  except  an  Indian 
guide,  in  order  not  to  arouse  any  siwpicions.  On  his  arrival  he  intended  to  negotiate 
with  the  chief  for  the  ransom  of  the  unfortunate  priHuners. — M.  Marguin,  in  a  letter  - 
dated  May  8th  from  Buenos  Ayres,  stated  that  he  was  going  to  take  up  the  explora- 
tion of  Crevaux  on  the  Pilcomayo,  but  that  he  \vould  go  first  of  all  by  land,  coasting 
along  the  river,  and  then  descend  it  again  up«m  rafts.  He  intended  to  devote  i 
month  or  two  to  the  exploration  of  the  districts  between  the  Pilcomayo,  the  Rio  del 
Fuego,  and  the  Paraguay. — In  conclusion  a  communii'^ition  was  made  by  M.  Bra^ 
de  St.  Pol  Lias  upon  his  journey  to  Atcha  and  Pertik  (Sumatra  and  Malacca). 
Details  of  the  second  part  of  this  journey  will  be  found  in  the  volume  which  tie 
author  has  just  published,  entitled  '  Pe'rak  et  les  Orangs  Sakeys*;  this  latter  race 
ia  the  most  primitive  in  existence,  possessing  neither  huts  nor  clothes  of  any  kind. 
(Geographical  Society  of  Stockholm.— I8th  May,  1883:  Dr.  O.  MoNTKLnru, 
President,  m  the  Chair. — A  letter  wiis  read  from  Herr  Worsaiie,  of  Copenhagen, 
inviting  the  co-ojwration  of  the  Society  at  the  International  American  Congress, 
which  will  meet  in  that  city  from  the  2l8t  to  the  21th  of  August.  Another 
commimication  was  read  from  the  Union  Geographique  «lu  Nord  de  la  France 
requesting;  tlie  Society  to  send  a  delegate  to  the  Geographical  CoDgrcss  to  iw 
held  at.Douai  iietween  August  2Cth  and  September  1st,  and  which  is  lo  be  acconi- 
panied  by  a  Geographical  Exhibition  oix;n  from  August  15ih  to  September  15ih. — 
Dr.  Stoljw  then  read  a  paper,  translated  from  Japanese,  on  the  rules  and  etiquette 
to  be  observed  in  Japanese  '*  society." — The  Secretary,  Herr  Dahlgren,  next  drew 
attention  to  a  chart,  just  issued  by  the  Commissioners  of  Roads  and  Waterworks  of 
Sweden,  showing  all  lakes  and  rivers  in  the  southern  part  of  the  country,  as  well  as 
bogs,  which  might  be  drained  for  cultivation.  He  stated  that  in  this  part  of  Sweden 
alone  there  were  more  than  ten  thousand  acres  of  bog  which  would  be,  if  drained,  fit 
for  cultivation.  The  Government  had  asked  the  Diet  for  a  sura  of  ten  milhon 
kronor  to  commence  this  work. — I>r.  Mouteiios,  the  President,  read  a  letter  from 
a  Miss  Mestorf,  in  Kiel,  a  corresponding  member  of  the  Society,  in  which  she 
referred  to  the  use  of  tin  in  the  bronze  age.  The  President  then  addressed  the 
meeting  on  the  subject  of  the  participation  of  the  Swedes  in  the  Viking  expediliooj 


NEW  BOOKS.  497 

weitem  Europe.  This  question  had  been  raised  by  a  writer  in  the  '  Journal  of 
i8t<Mry  *  with  reference  to  his  (Dr.  Montelius')  work  on  Sweden  in  pagan  times. 
e.  Dr.  Montelius,  thought  there  was  no  doubt  that  the  Swedes  had  participated  in 
6  Viking  expeditions  to  the  west,  although  those  to  the  east  were  most  numerous. 
was  no  evidence  against  this  that  writers  of  the  period  in  Western  Europe  only 
entioned  Norwegians  and  Danes.  These  names  embraced  all  Scandinavians  in  the 
me  manner  as  the  Easterns  at  the  present  day  call  all  Europeans  Franks.  Besides, 
ro  writers  of  the  time,  Einhard  and  Helmold,  spoke  distinctly  of  the  **  Svear," 
ivedes,  as  being  included  among  the  Normans.  The  strongest  proof  of  the  fact 
u,  however,  several  Runic  stones,  which  clearly  stated  that  certain  heroes  had  died 
loesiem  marauding  expeditions.  The  force  of  this  view  some  writers  had 
tempted  to  minimise  by  asserting  that  the  Swedes,  when  marauding  in  the  West, 
ted  merely  as  the  auxiliaries  of  the  Norwegians  and  Danes,  but  he  (the  speaker) 
d  not  think  that  the  term  auxiliary  could  be  applied  in  a  time  when  every  one  was 
is  own  master.  He  certainly  admitted  that  the  Swedes  participated  in  this 
.padty  in  Canute  the  Great's  conquest  of  Britain,  but  this  was  long  after  the  Viking 
ipeditions,  while  it  was  of  quite  a  different  character.  Besides,  on  many  Runic 
ones  such  inscriptions  had  been  found,  as  "  He  went  to  Britain,"  "  He  died  in 
ritain,"  &c.  As  one  of  the  most  conclusive  proofs  of  the  Swedes*  participation  in 
le  expeditions  of  the  Vikings  to  the  West,  he  considered,  however,  ths  circumstance 
lat  great  quantities  of  Anglo-Saxon  coins,  and  some  Prankish  had  been  found  in 
^eden,  particularly  on  the  Island  of  Gotland — in  fact,  they  outnumbered  all  those 
and  in  Norway  and  Denmark  together.  He  therefore  considered  that  he  was  fully 
stifled  in  having  devoted  a  chapter  in  his  history  of  the  Swedish  people  to  their 
iking  expeditions  to  the  West  of  Europe. — The  Society  then  adjourned  for  the 
immer  recess,  the  next  meeting  being  fixed  for  October  19th. 


NEW  BOOKS. 

(By  K  C.  Btx,  Librarian  b.o.8.) 

EUROPE. 

en  Horske  Nordhavs-Ezpedition,  1876-1878.— [The  Norwegian  North 
Atlantic  Expedition,  1876-1878.]  Part  X.  Meteorologi,  af  H.  Mohn.  Christiania 
(Gr^ndabl) :  1883.    Imp.  4to.,  pp.  150,  plates,  woodcuts.    (Sampson  Low  A  Co.) 

This  further  instalment  of  the  great  Report  noticed  in  the  March  No.  of  our 
*  Proceedings '  for  the  current  year,  pp.  179-182,  is,  like  its  predecessors,  printed 
in  parallel  columns  of  Norwegian  and  EnglisL  It  consists  of  a  memoir 
describing  the  meteorological  work  of  the  Exj^ition,  which  was  planned  and 
organised  by  Prof.  Mohn,  who  himself  took  an  active  part  in  each  of  the  three 
cruises.  He  notices  in  detail  the  instruments  employed  and  the  mode  of  using 
them,  with  reduction  of  the  observations  (separately  for  each  of  the  meteoro- 
logical elements),  and  also  tabulates  the  reduced  values,  finally  giving  the 
deuced  results.  The  appendix  contains  an  account  of  experiments  undertaken 
to  determine  the  evaporation  of  sea-water. 

lan-ror-Lesse.]— The  Hades  of  Ardenne.  A  Visit  to  the  Caves  of  Han.  Described 
and  illustrated  by  the  T.  T.  Club.  London  (Sampson  Low  &  Co.) :  1883,  sm. 
cr.  8vo.,  pp.  159,  plan  and  illustrations.    Price  6ff. 

A  short  account  of  the  subterranean  course  of  the  Lease,  which,  not  far  from 
Rochefort,  flows  for  about  a  mile  and  a  half  through  a  series  of  chambers  honey- 
combed in  rock,  opening  into  each  other,  and  abounding  in  stalactites,  is  given 
in  Murray  and  Baedeker's  Guide  Books  for  Belgium;  but  the  little  volume  now 


498 


NEW  BOOKS. 


being  noticed,  edited  hy  J.  Moyr  Smitli,  con  tains  details  of  these  ( 

or  grottoes,  with  many  illuatratioas.     Some  of  these  are  from  phot- — -*--  ' 

by  electric  light  by  M.  Armand  Dandoy,  of  Namur,  but  the  111:1 

sketches  by  the  pseudonymous  writers  i»f  the  account,  and  inclujt.  i^..  ..  j«« 

of  scenic  and  architectnral  intercBt  on  the  road.  .  A  topographical  plan  of  the 

caverns  is  appended,  witli  insets  of  the  entrance  bf  the  Lease,  and  of  the  vilkgc 

of  Uan-sur-Lesse  and  its  environs. 

Ifeumaiin,  Gtistav, — Geographisches  Lex^kon  des  Deutschen  Reichs.  Leipxig 
(Biblio;Tiaphisches  institut):  1883,  cr.  8vo.,pp.  Lxxviii,  &  141G,  forming  two  voU.,, 
maps  and  plates,  with  Atlas,  fo.,  dpezialkarte  des  Dcutsohea  Beichs,  beir1)eiiet 
von  Ludwig  liavenstein.    (^Dulau :  price  18s.) 

This  very  complete  Gazetteer  of  the  German  Empire  is  preceded  bj  a  geo- 
graphical and  Htatistical  sketch  to  date,  and  contains  29  plans  of  cities  with 
separate  explanatory  text,  canal  and  railway  mai>8,  and  plates  of  the  armorial 
bearings  of  the  confederated  and  purely  Germanic  States.     The  \ 
30  pages  in  7  columns  of  Index  names,  5  pages  of  statistical  expl 
10  sheets  of  maps,  scale  1 :  850,000,  and  statbtical  maps  showiiip,  .^-  ....^ui 
of  population,  religion,  industries,  and  products. 

AFRICA. 

Peimillg',  W.  Henry. — A  Guide  to  the  Gold  Fields  of  South  Africa.     Pretoria  ( 
F.  Celliers) :  1883,  cr.  8vo.,  pp.  87,  map. 

The  author,  recently  engaged  on  our  Geological  Survey,  has  travelled  I 

South  Africa  for  a  perioi  of  two  years,  during  which  he  contributed  '         

notes  fnow  collected  and  supplemented)  to  local  newspapers.     He  disca«e»  th^^ 
Lydenburj;,  Blyde  river,  Zoutapansberg  and  Waterbcrg,  Tati,  Xortbem,  and  IS» 
Kaap  Gold-fi«lds,  with  an  appndii  011  routes,  conveyances,  &c.     The  map  £t.J 
confined  to  Eastern  South  Airicii.  ^ 

StevensoQi  James. — ^The  "Water  Higliways  of  the  Interior  of  Africa,  with  Xotes  00 
Slave-hunting  and  tjie  means  of  its  suppression.  From  Transactions  published  bj- 
Authority  of  the  Council  of  the  Glasgow  Philosophical  Society,  May,  1883. 
Glasguw  (James  Maclehose  &  Sous) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  28,  maps.  M 

This  paper,  read  before  the  Glasgow  Philosophical  Society  on  March  28th  m 
last,  and  now  separately  published,  descnbes  the  three  great  waterways  to  the 
centre  of  the  continent,  viz.  by  the  Lakes*,  the  Uppr  Nile,  and  the  Congo,  *ith 
general  observations.  In  one  Apiiendix,  the  Portuguese  tariff  of  ctLstoms  for 
Mozambique  is  reproduced,  and  in  another  an  extract  is  given  from  Leo's  History, 
referring  to  the  Congo  region. 

The  maps  (by  Ravcnstein)  are  two  of  Equatorial  Africa,  scale  1 :  23,000,000, 
one  showing  elevations,  mission  stations,  Bantu  northern  limits,  and  the  station* 
of  the  International  Association  and  African  Lakes  Trading  Co. ;  the  other  giving 
tracks  of  slave  caravans  and  hunters,  and  the  principal  districts  harassed  by 
them,  A  general  map  of  Africa  is  also  given,  sliowing  amongst  other  things  the 
line  where  water  trufHc  is  interrupted  by  falls,  and  the  waterbhcd  between  inner 
and  coastal  rivers. 


Compiled  and  sum- 
Hamilton,  Iknn  uiia 


AMERICA. 

Ogilvy,  John. — An  account  of  Bermuda,  past  and  present, 
marised  from  numerous  sources,  with  original  observations. 
(S.  Nelmes) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  G4. 

Tlic  growing  reputation  of  the  Bermudas  as  a  health-resort  has  caused  Dr. 
Ogilvy  (Surgeon-General,  and  princijial  medical  ofRcer,  Bermuda  Command)  tt> 
put  togi'ther  this  systematic  account  of  the  islands,  which  contains  a  sketch  of 
their   physical  geography,  geology,  water  supply,  climate,  health  cooditions, 
flora,  fauna,  &c.,  and  a  bibliography  of  the  literature. 


NEW  BOOKS. 


499 


ARCTIC. 

JrilC  Dutch  Expedition  of  1882,]— Veralag  van  den  Vijfdeu  Tocht  van  de  Willeni 
Barents  naar  de  Noordelijke  Jjszee  iu  den  Zoracr  van  1882,  uitgcbracht  aan  het 
iP^tQur  der  Verceniging  Willcm  Barents.  Haarlem  (H.  D.  Tjeenk  WilUnk) : 
1883,  8vo.,  pp.  133,  map  and*  illustrations. 

This  Report,  wliich  follows  the  account  of  tho  fourth  voyage  of  the  WHlem 
Barents  noticed  in  the  last  volume  of  our  *  Proceedings,'  p.  517,  gives  (after  a 
list  of  preparations  and  inatrnctions)  an  .account  by  Lieut,  C.  Hoffman  of  the 
(operations  of  the  fifth  voyage  of  the  same  vessel  in  the  Barents  Sea,  from  the 
Biart  on  9th  May  from  Amsterdam  to  the  return  at  the  end  of  October  1882. 
]t  will  be  remembered  that  the  primary  object  of  this  expedition  was  to  relieve 
Mr.  B.  Leigh  Smith.  A  sketch  of  the  zoological  observations  made  dnrin};  the 
voyage  is  added  by  J.  J.  Scheltema,  with  a  list  of  dredging  stations,  and  Dr.  J. 
J.  V.  Haak  makes  a  health-return. 

The  map  gives  route,  ice-jiositions,  &c.,  with  special  inset  of  the  Matotchkin 
Strait.  The  illuHtrations  (some  of  which  are  by  cbromolithography)  represent 
the  meeting  with  a  northern  sealer  in  the  Barents  Sea,  Vardo,  AltgHubigen 
Bay,  two  views  of  the  Matotchkin  Strait,  and  some  ice  phenomena. 

GENEBAL. 
ICiiller,    C.  —  KLAtJDiou     Ptolemaioo    Geoobaphikb    HupHEaKsis,      Ciaudii 
Ptolenuei    Geograpliia.      E  Codidbus    recognovit,    Prolegomenia,    Annotatione, 
Indicibus,  Tabulb  instruxit  Carolus  Miilleros.    Vol.  L  Pt.  L  Parisiis  (Firmin- 
Didot) :  1883,  sm.  4to.,  pp.  570.   (Dttlau:  price  12s.) 

Contains  (aft«r  a  list  of  .19  copies  of  the  text  conmUed,  commencing  with  the 
Paris  one  of  1401,  and  including  ihe  Ingolstadt  rditio priuctps)  the  first  three 
books,  describing  Europe,  with  the  Prolegomena.  The  Greek  text  and  a  fireah 
Latin  translation  ore  given  in  parallel  columns,  with  very  ample  notes,  oom- 
mentaries,  and  references,  far  exceeding  the  text  in  bulk.  The  maps  are  to 
appear  in  the  3nl  volume. 

Pannentier,  J.  &  R. — Recucildo  Voyages  et  de  Dijcuments  pour  servir  k  rilistoiro 
de  la  'joograpbio  depuis  le  XII T  jusqu'a  la  fin  du  XVI^  Sidcle.  IV.  Le  Discours 
do  la  Navigation  de  Jean  et  Raoul  Parmentier  de  Dieppe.  Voyage  k  Samatra  en 
1529.  Description  de  I'isle  do  Sainct-Dominigo.  Publid  par  M.  Ch.  Schefer, 
Membre  de  Tlnstitut.  Paris  (Ernest  Leroux) :  1383,  large  8vo.,  pp.  xxix.  and 
202.    {WUliams  &  Norgate  :  price  13«.  6<i.) 

This  4th  volume  of  the  series  recently  commeaoed  by  MM.  Cb,  Schefer 
and  H.  Cordior  (of  which  the  first  two  volumes  were  noticed  in  our  *  Proceed- 
ings' for  1882,  pp.  772  and  773;  and  the  third,  'Leu  Corte-Keal  et  leurs 
■Vuyages  au  Nouveau-Monde,*  by  flenry  Harrisiic",  has  not  yet  been  received), 
bontains  an  introductory  and  annotated  Bketch  of  the  life  and  work  of  Jean 
Parmentier,  the  poet-geographer  of  Dieppe,  born  in  1494,  especially  as  regards 
Bkia  tragical  voyage  to  Sumatra  with  his  brother  Daoul  in  the  ships  PemOi  and 
_  Saere  in  1529.  An  historic  outline  of  the  earlier  visits  to  this  island  and  the 
political  events  connected  with  it  after  the  commencement  of  the  16th  cenlurj', 
is  also  given.  M.  Schefer  has  no  hesitation  in  attributing  the  original  editor- 
ship of  the  journal  to  Pierre  Crignon,  a  man  of  literary  attainments,  who  accom- 
])anied  Parmentier  on  the  Fttisif:  as  astronomical  observer ;  and  he  is  also  of 
opinion  tltat  the  narrative  of  the  voyage  to  North  America  in  vol.  iii.  of 
Ramusio  ("  Discorao  d'un  Gran  Capitano  di  Mare  Franoese  del  Luogodi  Dieppa  '^ 
is  due  to  Crignon,  who  probably  introduced  into  his  account  cventa  that  bap- 
pened  after  Parmentier'a  death. 

The  annotated  text  of  the  voyage  to  Samatra  and  of  the  incomplete  descrip- 
tion of  St.  Domingo  and  the  coast  of  Nombre  de  Dice  is  followed  by  a  poem 
^wfwmposed  by  Parmentier  during  his  passage  from  Madagascar,  and  by  Crignon's 
^^^ptlegy  Ufion  his  two  unfortunate  companions  ;  and  the  volume  concludes  with  a 
^^^re^odnction  of  the  chapter  on  Ilispaniola  from  *'  Le  Grand  Insulaire  et 


500 


NEW  MAPS. 


Pilotage  "  of  Andr^  Thevct,  contained  in  MS.  in  tiie  French  National  Library. 
M.  Schefer  is  convinced  that  Tbevet  in  writing  this  had  before  him  the  descrip- 
tion (possibly  in  a  perfect  state)  of  St.  Domiogo,  forming  the  second  part  of 
Parrnenlier's  discourse. 

Ziegler,  J.  M. — Ein  gcographischer  Text  zur  geolqgischen  Earte  der  Erde,  xnit 
emem  Atlas.  Basel  (Bcntio  Schwabe) :  1883,  Svo.,  pp.  xv'u  and  314  [no  index], 
Atlas  oblong  8vo.     {Dulatt:  price  16a.) 

This  posthumous  work  discusses  (1)  the  geological  distribution  of  rocks,  (2) 
hypsometric  proportions,  (3)  the  Sea,  (4)  geological  periods,  (5)  results  of 
geodeticians  and  physicists,  (6)  the  bearing  ot  those  results  on  the  geographical 
djstribntion  of  rocks,  (7)  the  functions  of  temptrature  in  the  formation  of  the 
earth's  constituents,  (8  and  fl)  the  Triassic  and  Tertiary  periods  in  their  respeo 
livo  geographical  beariopa,  (iO)  the  gjadualievel-alterations  of  individual  pointj 
of  the  earth's  crust,  (11)  the  volcanic  phenomena  of  recent  geological  periods, 
(12)  an  attempt  at  a  geographical  chronology  of  the  earth's  crust,  having  regard 
to  the  constant  operaiions  of  rotation,  attntction,  and  temperature,  and  (13)  a 
conclusion  in  which  an  attempt  is  made  to  determino  the  relations  of  geography 
with  the  other  natural  sciences.  The  atlas  is  of  various  physical  {^lointa,  taken 
from  known  authorities. 


'  KEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  CdLES»  Map  Curator  R.O.S.) 

EUROPE. 

DeatBchland,  General-karte  von ,  uebst  einem  Theile  der  angrenzenden  Landar 

mit  besonderer  Beriicksichtigung  dor  Ijofahrenen  Eisenbahneu  gczcichnotvon  Fnin^ 
Fried.  Scale  1  r  1,800,000  or  -5 '  4  goograjthical  miles  to  an  inch.  Artaria  *■ 
Comp.,  "Wien,  1883.    Price  2«.     {£>ulau.) 

Italia,  Carta  d'^ .     Scales  1 :  50,000  or  1*4  inchra  to  a  geographical  mile,  aad 

1:25,000  or  2*9  inches  t^  a  goograpliieal  mile,  Istituto  Topografico  MUitare, 
Firenze,  1883.  Sheets  :— 28— h  Ollomont;  II.  Aosta;  III.  Morgex :  IV.  Gnn 
S.  Bernardo.     41 — I.  Gran  Paradise ;  IV.  Valgrisanche.    42—11.  n.o.  Vislrorio, 

II.  8.0.  Caslellamonte,  11.  k.e.  Ivrea,  11.  b.e.  Strambino ;  HI.  Cuorgni;  IV. 
Cbamix>rcher.  43 — L  x.e.  Gattinara,  L  s.e,  Carpijinano  Sesia,  I,  k.o.  Masseraao, 
J.  B.O.  Eoasenda;  II.  n.e.  Arltoro,  II.  s.e.  Villata,  II.  n.o.  Buronzo,  U.  5.0.  S. 
Germano  Vercelleae  ;  III.  n.e.  Salussola,  111.  N.o.  Azeglio,  III.  s.e,  Santhik,  IIL 
B.o.  Borgomasino  ;  IV,  n.e.  Bioglio,  IV.  n.o.  Andomo  Caccioma,  IV.  s.e.  Cossato, 
IV.  B.C.  Biella.    44— HI.  n.e.  Novara,  III.  n.o.  Biaudrate,  III.  8,e.  Veapolate, 

III.  6,0.  Borgo  Vercelii.  57 — I.  n.e.  Verceili,  I.  s.e.  Bahola,  I.  n.o.  Ronsecoo, 
I.  s.o.  Triuo;  II.  N,K.  Casale  Monfcrrato,  IL  n.o.  Mombello  Mouferrato,  IL  s.s. 
Viguale,  II.  s.o.  Moncalvo  ;  III,  n.e.  Gabiano,  HI.  x.o.  Cocconato,  III.  8.K.  Man> 
tiglio,  HI.  B.o.  Castelnovo  d'A.sti ;  IV.  k.k.  Livorno  Piomootc,  IV.  s.o.  Cigliano, 

IV.  e.K.  Cresccntino,  IV.  s.o,  Saluggia.  68— IV.  n.e.  Kobbio,  IV.  n.o.  Palestro. 
Price  of  each  sheet  Id,    {Dulau.} 

As  very  considerable  progress  has  now  been  made  in  this  survey,  it  is  thought 
that  the  following  particulars  maybe  interesting,  and  perhaps  clear  up  some 
of  the  difficulties  which,  without  explanation,  are  sure  to  exist  in  the  case  of 
a  series  of  maps  which  are  published  in  ditTerent  scales  for  different  localities. 

It  seems  to  have  been  originally  intended  to  publish  the  whole  of  this  map 
on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000,  but  in  1873  permission  was  granted  from  Lead- 
quarters  to  the  MiUtary  Topographical  Institute  to  issue  sheets  of  this  map  on 
the  following  enlarged  scales  : — all  the  valley  of  the  Po,  the  lower  valley  ot"  the 
Amo,  the  suburbs  of  the  princi|)al  cities,  parts  of  the  mineral  districts,  and 


I 


MEW  MAPS.  501 

other  places  of  special  importance  on  the  scale  of  1 :  25,000 ;  the  renudning 
portions  will  be  pablished  on  the  scale  of  1 :  50,000.  The  projection  is  a  modi- 
fication of  Fiamsted's,  the  origin  of  the  co-ordinates  is  found  by  the  intersection 
of  the  meridian  of  Naples  with  the  40th  parallel.  As  these  sheets  are  product 
in  as  rapid  and  economical  a  manner  as  possible,  no  pretence  is  made  to  artistic 
elegance ;  great  attention,  however,  has  been  given  to  the  exactness  of  parti- 
cobrs,  for  the  varions  uses  for  which  they  may  be  required.  At  first  the  sheets 
were  reproduced  by  photolithography,  but  this  process,  though  rapid,  was  found 
to  give  such  inferior  results,  that  other  methods  were  tried,  and  at  present  they 
are  reproduced  by  photography  on  copper  and  transferred  to  stone,  and  it  is 
intended  that  all  the  sheets  which  have  previously  been  produced  by  photo- 
lith<^Taphy  shall  be  republished  as  soon  as  they  can  be  printed  by  this  improved 
process.  The  elevations  are  shown  by  contour  lines  at  the  distances  of  5  and 
10  metres  apart,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  country.  Up  to  the  present  date 
we  have  received  305  sheets  on  the  scale  of  1 :  25,000  and  418  on  the  scale  of 
1:50,000. 

There  is  a  seeming  contradiction  in  the  manner  in  which  these  sheets  are 
numbered,  that  requires  explanation.  They  are  all  numbered  as  being  sheets 
of  a  map  on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000,  whereas  the  actual  sheet  is  probably  drawn 
to  the  scale  of  1 :  25,000  or  1 :  50,000,  and  is  only  a  section  on  an  enlarged  scale 
of  the  sheet  on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000  indicated,  this  latter  being  divided  into 
four  for  the  1 :  50,000  and  sixteen  for  the  1 :  25,000. 

Oesterreichiscli-TTngariBclien  Belches,  Karte  des ,  von  Joseph  Bitter  von 

Scheda,  Eaiserl:  Konigl:  Oberst.  Mit  den  Grenzen  der  Bezirks-Hauptmann- 
schaflen  und  Comitate.  Yerlag  u.  Eigenthum  v.  Artaria  Ss  C!omp:  in  Wien. 
Ansgabe  1883.  Scale  1 :  993,000  or  13*  6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  4  sheets. 
Price  12«.    (Dtdau.) 

Scotland,  Beduced  Ordnance  Maps  of ,  by  John  Bartholomew,  f.b.o.8.    Scale 

1:127,000  or  1*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch :— Ayr  and  Nithsdale  District. 
Mofiiat  and  Hawick  District.  Boss-shire.  Adam  &  Charles  Black,  Edinburgh, 
1883.    Price  2».  6d.  each,  coloured ;  3«.  6d.  mounted  on  cloth. 

In  the  Map  of  Boss-shire  an  orographic  system  of  colouring  has  been  intro- 
duced. Previously,  in  this  series  of  reduced  Ordnance  Maps,  the  counties  have 
been  distinguished  by  different  colours,  and  the  contours  by  faint  lines,  but 
according  to  the  system  introduced  in  the  map  of  Boss-shire,  contours  are  drawn 
at  intervals  of  500  feet,  and  the  spaces  between  these  lines  are  coloured  in  tints 
which  are  varied  from  verdant  green  in  the  lowlands  and  valleys,  to  dark  tints 
for  the  mountain  peaks  and  ridges.  This  system,  which  has  long  been  in 
use  in  physical  maps,  is  well  adapted  for  all  the  requirements  of  tourists' 
maps. 

Wien,  Ncuester  Plan  von mit  Vororten  (bis  Schonbrunn).    Scale  1360  feet 

to  an  inch.  Wien :  Verlag  u.  Eigenthum  von  Artaria  &  Comp.  18^3.  "With 
Index.    Price  2«.    CDtdau,) 

OBDNANCB  SUBVEY  MAPS. 

Publications  issued  from  1st  to  31st  May,  1883. 
1-inch, — (xeneral  Maps : — 

Scotland  :  Sheet  110  (Hill-shaded).    1«.  9rf. 
Ireland  :  Sheet  172  (Hill-shaded).    Is. 
6-inch— County  Maps  :— 

England:  Berks,  sheets  9,  13.  2«.  6rf.  each.  Berks,  sheet  7,  with  Wilts, 
sheet  6,  Gloucester,  sheet  61,  and  Oxford,  sheet  43.  2».  Bd.  Derby,  Quarter 
Sheets,  16N.B.  (this  completes  sheet  16) ;  23  S.W.,  23  S.E. ;  24  N.W. ;  26 
S.W.  1».  each.  Shropshire,  Quarter  Sheets,  49  S.W.;  54  N.W.,  with 
Montgomery,  38  N.W.  1«.  each. 
Ibkland:  Longford  (revised):  Sheets  8, 14,  22.  2».  Qd.  each.  Sheets  17,  26. 
2t.  each. 


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NEW  MAPS.  508 

KW^  S.E.,  and  S-W.  District  Thana.  Scale  2  [inclies  to  a  mile.  Season 
1680-81.  Sheets  No.  86  N.  and  S.  Island  of  Bombay,  and  Districts  ThAoa  and 
Solaba.  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Sheet  No.  86.  District  Eolaba  and  Habsan 
State.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1880-81.  Sheets  No.  86  N.  and  S. 
District  Eolaba  and  Habean  State.  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Season  1880-81. — 
Deccan  Topographical  Siirvey.  Sheet  No.  61.  Districts  Satara,  Sholapur,  and 
Kaladgi,  and  Kolhapur  Agency.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1880-81. 
Sheet  No.  68.  District  Ealadgi,  Nizam's  Dominions,  and  Kolhapnr  Agency. 
Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1880-81.— Bengal  Presidency:  North-West 
Provinces  Survey.  Sheets  No.  3  N.E.,  N.  W.,  8.E.,  and  S.W.  District  Saharanpur. 
Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1878-79-80.  Sheets  No.  16  N.E.,  N.W.,  aE., 
and  S.W.  Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut.  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons 
1878-79-80.  Sheets  No.  18  N.E.,  N.W.,  S.E.,  and  S.W.  District  Meerut. 
Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1879-80-81.  Sheets  No.  29  N.  and  S. 
Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut.  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1879- 
80-81.  Sheets  No.  30  N.  and  S.  Districts  Muzaffamagar  and  Meerut.  Scale 
2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1879-80-81.  Sheets  No.  31  N.  and  S.  District 
Meemt  Scale  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1879-80-81.  Sheet  No.  65.  Districts 
Moradabad,  Tarai,  and  Bampnr  State.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1848-52, 
1864-60,  1871-2,  and  75-76.  Sheet  No.  66.  District  Moradabad  and  Rampur 
State.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1864-65-66,  1871-72,  and  75-76. 
Sheet  No.  67.  District  Budaun  and  Bampur  State.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile. 
Seasons  1865-66,  and  76-77.— Oudh  Revenue  Survey.  Sheet  No.  138.  District 
Bae  Bareli.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1861  to  63. — Lower  Provinces 
Bevenue  Survey.  Sheet  No.  12.  District  NoakhoUy.  Scale  1  inch  to  a  mile. 
Seasons  ^864-65. — Assam.  District  Eimrtip,  1865-69.  Scale  4  miles  to  an  inch. 
— Assam.  District  Goalpara.  Scale  4  miles  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1856-59  and 
64-75. — The  Provinces  of  Bengal,  Behar,  Orissa,  and  Chota  Nagpore.  1882. 
Scale  16  miles  to  an  inch.  4  sheets. — Plan  of  the  Town  of  Calcutta.  Scale 
6  inches  to  a  mile.  2  sheets.  2nd  edition. — Trans-Frontier  Surveys :  Map  of 
the  Boutes  followed  by  Explorer  D.C.S.  from  Darjceling  to  Shigatze  during 
1879.  Explorer  G.S.S.  in  Nepaul  during  1880  and  1881.  Explorer  G.M.N. 
from  Shigatze  to  Khamba  Jong  during  1880,  also  some  routes  of  former  Ex- 
plorers, and  some  of  the  results  of  the  Surveys  by  the  Darjeeling  Survey  Party 
during  1879-82.  Compiled  by  Captain  H.  J.  Harman,  B.E.,  June  1882.  Scale 
16  miles  to  an  inch. — Biluchistan  Topographical  Survey.  Scale  2  miles  to 
an  inch.  Preliminary  Sheets  Nos.  2,  3,  4,  5,  6.  Seasons  1880-81-82. 
(Preliminary  Map.)  Biluchistan  Topographical  Survey.  Scale  1  inch  to 
4  miles.    Season   1880-81.      2    sheets.— 'Trigonometrical    Branch,    Survey   of 

India.    Sketch  Map  illustrating  the  explorations  of  M S in  and  around 

Badakhshan,  1878  to  1881.  Trans<Himalayan  Exploration  Map  No.  14.  Scale 
12  miles  to  an  inch. — Sketch  Map  of  the  Hazarajat  Scale  16  miles  to  an  inch. 
Compiled  from  native  and  other  information  by  Lieut.-Col.  E.  P.  Leach,  r.e.,  and 
intended  to  illustrate  a  report  submitted  to  the  Surveyor-General  of  India,  on  the 
8tii  December,  1880. — Indices :  Index  Chart  to  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey 
of  India  showing  Col.  Lambton's  network  of  Triangulation  in  Southern  India,  the 
meridional  and  longitudinal  chains  of  Principal  Triangles,  the  Base  Lines  measured 
with  the  Colby  Apparatus,  &c.  &c.  Completed  to  Oct.  1st,  1882.  Scale  96  miles 
to  an  inch. — Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  Atlas  of  India,  Dec.  1882.  Scale  125 
miles  to  an  inch.^ — India,  showing  the  progress  of  the  Imperial  Surveys,  to  1st  Oct., 
1882.  Scale  125  miles  to  an  inch. — Index  Chart  of  the  Guzerat  Survey.  Scale 
24  miles  to  an  inch.— Index  Chart  of  the  Cntch  Topographical  Survey.    Scale 


18  miles  to  an  inch. — Index  to  tbo  Sheet  Maps  of  the  North- West  Pi 
OiidL»  on  the  scale  of  1  inch  to  1  mile.  1882.  Scale  of  Index  32  miles 
—Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  G  walior  and  Central  India  Topographical 
the  scale  of  1  inch  to  1  mile.  1882.— Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  To] 
Survey,  District  Kohat.  Scale  IG  miles  to  au  inch.  1882. — Index  to 
of  the  Mysore  Toiwgraphical  Survey,  on  the  scale  of  1  inch  to  1  ra^ile.  Scxh 
Index  32  miles  to  an  inch.  1882. — Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  RajputanA  T< 
graphical  Survey,  on  the  scales  of  1  inch  to  1  niilo,  and  ^  inch  to  1  mile.  188; 
Index  to  the  Survey  of  South  Sylhet  and  Tipiterah  Hdls.  Scale  8  mil»  to 
inch.  1882. — Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  Bhopal  and  Malwa  Topographioil  S 
vcy,  on  the  scale  of  1  inch  to  1  mile.  1882. — Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the  Khand 
and  Bombay  Native  States  Topographical  Survey,  on  the  scales  of  1  incli 
1  mile,  and  2  inches  to  1  mile.  1882. — Index  to  the  Shtets  of  the  Baluchiil 
Survey,  on  the  scale  of  1  inch  to  2  miles,  and  1  inch  to  4  miles,     1882, 

AFRICA. 

Egypt,  Map  of  Middle .     Compiled  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War  0(8oe, 

1882,  principally  from  the  Surveys  made  by  the  Egyj)tian  General  Staff  and  ] 
John  Fowler,  C.E.  Scale  1  :  200,000  or  2  •  7  geoijraphical  miles  to  ad  inch.  Lit 
graphed  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War  Office,  March  18:<3. 

riegel,  Robt.  Ed. — Vorhiufige  Kartenskizze  der  Gegenden  im  Stiden  dai  Bn 
nach  den  Reisen  und  Erkuudiguugen  von  Kobt.  Ed.  Flegel.  Scale  1 : 6,000,(] 
or  82 '1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Fetermann'ji  *  Geographischc 
gen,"  1883,  Scitc  241.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Duiau.) 

Mndirie  Rohlt  Originalkarte  dcr  Reise  des  Dr.  Emin  Bey  durch  die . 

bis  Dez.  1881.  Entw.  u.  gez.  von  B.  Hasseastein.  Scale  1 ;  1,000,000  or  11 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  TetermaQn's  '  Geographischc  Mittlieilungi 
Jahrgang  1883,  Tafel  8.     Justus  Pertbes,  Gotha.    (Dulau.) 

ATLASES. 

Switzerland.  —  Topograph ischer  Atlas  der  Scliweiz  im   Masstab  der 

Anfoabmeii  nach  dem  Bundeagesetzo  vom  18.  Dezember  1808  durch  doa  *ii^ 
nuRsische  Stabsbiireau  unter  der  Direktion  von  Oberit  Siegfried  vcrCiffentiifll 
XXI.  Liefemng.  Scale  1 :  50,000  or  1  '4  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  No. : 
Walcnsee.  273.  Jenins.  274.  Partnun.  390.  Mustathal.  403.  Altdorf. 
Amsteg.  490.  Obergestelen.  493.  Alotsohgletscher.  533.  MiachabeL 
Saaa,  535.  Zermatt,  536.  Monte  Moro.  XXII.  Lieferung.  Scale  1:1 
2 "9  inches  to  a  geographical  roile.  No.  20.  Laufenburg.  21.  Koblenk 
Klingnan.  W.  Andelfiiigen.  85.  Chaux-du-Milieu.  157.  Bremj 
Affoltem.  175.  Thalwil.  216.  Fischenthal.  308,  Colombier.  34l 
351.  Ganlrisch.    J.  Dalp,  Bern.    Price  IBs.  each  part.    (ZJu^ati.) 

EDUCATIONAL. 

PalflBStina. — H.  KieiM-rt'sVolksschnl-Wandkarto   von .    None,  i 

schen  Aiifnahme  von  PaliEstina  W.  vom  Jordan  berichtigte  Be^irb 
1:300,000  or  4*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Verlag  von  Diet^ 
Berlin,  1883.     4  sheets.    (I>nl<iu.) 


LNI«^^ ,  B«^Lum.:^uam 


PKOCEEDINGS 


OF  THE 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  REOOKD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Visits  to  tJie  Eastern  and  North-eadern  Coasts  of  New  Guinea. 
By  Wilfred  Powell,  Esq. 

(Bead  at  tho  Evening  Meeting,  May  7tb,  1883.) 

Two  years  ago,  18B1, 1  commanicated  to  this  Society  a  short  paper  onr 
some  observations  that  I  had  made  on  the  great  island  of  New  Britain, 
the  western  extremity  of  which  lies  only  60  miles  from  the  eastern 
coast  of  New  Guinea.  During  my  cmises  in  these  seas  I  visited  New 
Britain  and  New  Ireland  twice,  spending  altogether  upwards  of  three 
years  in  these  little-known  islands,  but  I  shall  not  say  anything 
further  on  this  subject  as  my  paper  on  these  islands  had  the  honour  to 
be  published  in  the  *  Proceedings '  of  this  Society,  in  the  third  volume, 
and  the  surveys,  that  I  had  the  opportunity  of  making,  of  considerable 
portions  of  the  coasts,  were  adopted  by  the  Hydrographical  Department, 
and  have  been  incorporated  in  the  Admiralty  charts.  My  purpose  now 
is  to  give  the  Society  some  account  of  what  I  saw  of  New  Guinea.  In 
1875  and  1876,  and  again  in  1877-78,  as  also  on  my  return  from  New 
Britain  in  1879, 1  visited  the  northern  and  eastern  side  of  New  Guinea, 
and  on  one  occasion  spent  eighteen  months  in  exploring  the  coast  and 
harbours  and  in  studying  the  native  tribes.  I  did  not,  however,  make 
an  actual  survey  of  the  coast,  but  my  coasting  voyage  then  extended  the 
whole  length  of  this  side  of  the  island,  from  China  Straits  to  Point 
Durville,  a  distance  of  over  1000  miles. 

In  1881 1  also  resided  for  some  months  on  Thursday  Island,  Torres 
Straits,  and  during  various  cruises  in  the  pearl-shell  fishers'  boats  had 
good  opportunity  of  observing  much  and  learning  much  about  the 
southern  coast  of  this  wonderful  island  of  Papua.  Of  the  western  and 
south-west  portions  I  cannot  say  anything.  But  this  is  of  less  oon- 
sequenoe  as  Mr.  D'Albertis  has  given  a  very  good  account  of  the  north- 
western peninsula,  and  Mr.  Wallace's  excellent  desoription  of  the 
neighbourhood  of  Dorey,  on  the  north-western  coast,  must  be  fS^miliar  to 
most  English  readers. 

No.  IX.— SsPT.  1883.]  2  i. 


5oe 


VISITS  TO  THE  EASTERN  AND  NORTH-EASTERN 


ToiTCB  Straits,  the  narrow  sea  studded  witli  islands  which  aeparatet 
our  colony  of  QueunBland  from  New  Guinea,  has  become  of  late  yeaw 
better  known  in  consequence  of  the  great  development  of  the  pearl-ehell 
trade.  Very  extensive  beds  of  this  moUoac  have  been  discovered  in  the 
straits,  and  are  now  worked  by  fleets  of  large  boats,  built  on  jmrpotc, 
and  owned  by  firms  for  the  most  part  belonging  to  New  South  Wales. 
They  are  manned  by  natives  from  all  parts  of  Polynesia,  each  boat  is 
cai>t4uned  by  a  native  who  is  known  as  the  diver,  wearing  the  diver's  dress 
and  doing  all  that  portion  of  the  work.  The  shell  is  a  large  bivalve  with 
a  thick  lining  of  mother-of-pearl,  which  is  used  in  various  manufacturwu 

It  is  in  consequence  of  these  pearl  fisheries  (as  I  said  before)  that 
Tones  Straits  has  become  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  this 
has  led  to  the  more  careful  survey  of  the  numerous  dangers  attending 
its  navigation.     The  port,  so-called,  of  Thursday  Island,  is  a  shello^ . 
formed  by  several  neighbouring  islands.   It  was  established  as  a  harbi 
of  refuge  for  shipwrecked  mariners,  but  of  late  years  the  traflSc 
enorniouKly  increased  in  consequence  of  the  gi-owing  importance  of  ^ 
northern  ports'  on  the  Queensland  coast,  to  which  these  straits  are  t^ 
high  road.     This  port  has  also  become  the  rendezvous  and  stajtiurrTj 
point  for  travellers,  being*  of  course,  the  nearest  (jutpoet  of  civilisation 
to  the  ishind  uf  New  Guinea ;  and  from  thence,  for  many  years,  mis. 
sionaries  have  taken   their  departure   to  the   malarious  and  swampy 
distncts  in  the  Gulf  of  Papua,  and  returned  thither  to  recover  tlieir 
health  when  wasted  and  woni  out  with  the  New  Guinea  fever.    From 
this  place  also  started  a  large  party  of  Australian  miners,  attracted  by 
the  report  of  gold,  to  the  interior,  near  Port  Moresby,  few  of  whom 
returned  to  relate  their  mieerablo  failure. 

The  coast  of  Now  Guinea  immediately  opposite  Thursday  Island  is 
occupied  by  the  delta  of  the  Fly  river,  which  is  fully  described  in  Mr. 
D'Albertis'  book.  Here  the  coast  is  low,  swampy,  and  malarions,  as 
indeed  it  may  be  said  to  be  throughout  the  whole  of  this  Gulf  of  Papua. 
It  is  an  unfortunate  circumstanco  that  the  most  acceesiblo  portion  of 
this  island  viz.  that  bordering  Torres  Straits  on  the  north,  is  the  most 
unhealthy.  The  aspect  of  this  part  of  the  coast,  as  indeed  an  exazuina- 
tiou  of  the  chart  would  lead  one  to  expect,  is  that  of  a  low-lying  alluvial 
region,  the  outlet  of  some  of  the  lai'gest  rivers  in  New  Guinea  and  the 
drainage  of  the  Bouthem  portion  of  the  island  being  in  this  direction. 
Besides  the  Fly,  and  the  Aird,  there  are  many  hundreds  of  other  rivers 
and  crc^eks,  all  flowing  through  the  low  and  swampy  ground  forming 
this  south  coast,  which  is  covered  with  mangroves,  in  some  iilaces  for 
miles  inland.  This  is  the  hot-bed  of  fever,  and  the  low  hills,  which 
will  in  gome  cases  be  found  within  a  mile  or  so  of  the  coast,  are  not  high 
enough  to  raise  any  one  living  on  them  above  the  pestilential  inflneno©. 
Here  is  found,  I  believe,  amongst  these  natives  the  only  mithcnticattd 
cannibalism  that  exists  in  New  Guinea,  and  here  (as  I  learnt  from  a 


COASTS  OF  NEW  GUINEA.  507 

missionarj^),  only  amongst  isolated  tribes,  who  are  mucli  despised  by 

the  others.     Indeed  the  whole  of  the  native  tribes  inhabiting  the  Gulf 

of  Papua  are  of  a  decidedly  lower  type  than  those  in  the  more  elevated 

districts  to  the  east.     No  doubt  further  inland  it  is  possible  a  higher 

type  may  be  found  on  the  beautiful  slopes  of  the  Owen  Stanley  Hange, 

and  even  on  the  coast,  further  east  as  it  becomes  more  mountainous  and 

less  humid,  an  unmistakable  improvement  is  to  be  met  with  in  the 

physique  of  the  natives.    From  Mullens  Harbour  to  -China  Straits  the 

coast  is  comparatively  high   and  the  inhabitants  appear  to  be  more 

intelligent,  but  this  coast  is  so  much  better  known,  through  the  voyage 

of   Captain  Moresby  and  the   accounts  of  Mr.   Chalmers  and  other 

members  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  who  have  numerous  stations 

here,  than  almost  any  other  part  of  New  Guinea  (although  this  is  only 

for  a  short  distance  inland)  that  it  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  dwell  further 

upon  it. 

On  my  way  to  China  Straits  in  1877  I  passed  Brumer  Islands,  which 
^re  of  importance  in  an  anthropological  point  of  view,  for  here  it  appears 
to  me  that  the  two  races  meet,  and  intermingle ;  the  darker  and  more 
'barbarous  type  of  the  Gulf  of  Papua  and  the  south-west  coast,  and  the 
lighter-coloured  and  better-featured  type,  more  resembling  the  Polynesian, 
inhabiting  the  south-east  and  the  eastern  peninsula.  Oflf  Brumer  Islands 
I  observed  in  1877  a  shoal  which  does  not  appear  in  the  Admiralty 
charts  and  is  of  considerable  extent,  lying  on  the  northern  side  of  these 
islands ;  the  least  water  on  it  appeared  to  be  about  two  to  three  fathoms, 
where  now  is  marked  22,  no  bottom. 

The  next  point  of  importance  I  reached  was  China  Straits.  I  think 
there  can  hardly  be  prettier  scenery  anywhere  than  these  straits,  viewed 
as  you  enter  them,  with  Basilisk  Island  on  your  right  hand,  Blanchard 
Island  on  the  left,  and  Moresby  Island  rising  with  its  hills  and  peaks 
immediately  astern,  whilst  ahead  are  Heath  Island  on  the  one  hand  and 
Hayter  Island  on  the  other,  Dinner  and  Middle  Island  cropping  up 
right  in  the  centre  of  the  straits.  All  the  islands  are  extremely 
picturesque  in  their  varied  hilly  surface  and  rich  tropical  vegetation. 

Beyond  the  islands  rise  the  grand  and  majestic  mountains  of  the 
mainland,  beautifully  timbered  to  their  summits,  but  having  here  and 
there  cleared  patches  of  cultivation  which  show  that  the  natives  are 
numerous  and  industrious ;  indeed  in  some  places  one  might  imagine 
oneself  on  the  coast  of  Italy,  and  the  yam  and  taro  plantations  might 
be  vineyards.  Far  inland  looms  the  mighty  range  called  the  Cloudy 
Mountains,  of  which  Mount  Simpson  and  Mount  Thompson  are  the 
most  visible  peaks. 

Here  we  find  that  the  missibnary  work  has  made  its  way,  there 
being  a  teacher  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  on  the  mainland  and 
another  on  Hayter  Island,  a  number  which  has  probably  been  increased 
since  my  last  visit    Each  of  the  larger  islands  that  lie  immediately  to 

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COASTS  OF  NEW  GUINEA. 


609 


flhores  of  Normanby  Island.     On  the  south  coast  of  the  island, 
I  see  marked  on  the  chart,  "  a  remarkable  gap " ;  it  must  indeed  be  a 

t remarkable  one,  where  all  are  so  remarkable.  Peaks  rise  above  peaks, 
with  pinnacles  rising  from  them  as  from  some  huge  cathedral  towes-s, 
and  often  hanging,  as  it  were,  suspended  over  a  chasm  as  deep  as  they 
are  lofty.  Mr.  Uoldie,  a  botanical  collector  who  explored  the  mainland 
near  Port  Moresby  Bome  years  ago,  has  recently  been  ti*avelling  in 
Kormanby  Island.  I  wish  ho  were  here  tc>*night  to  give  ua  a  more 
^^detailcd  account  of  its  wonderful  natural  features. 

^b      The  next  point  we  arrive  at  is  Welle  Island.     This  island  is  the 

^■beginning  of  one  side  of  a  system  of  reefs  that  inclose  the  largest  known 

^fflagoon  in  the  world  ;  tho  Luscauuy  Islands  form  part.,  and  they  extend 

with  but  few  small  openings  frum  Welle  Island  to  La  Grandicro  Islands, 

I  which  with  TrobriiUid  Island  form  one  Hide  of  the  lagoon,  while  the 
reefs  from  Trobriand  Island  to  Riche  Island  (so  named  by  the  French,  part 
p{  New  Guinea),  and  the  coast  of  New  Guinea  from  thence  to  East  Cuj)e 
form  the  other  sides.  The  area  of  sea  inclosed  measures  in  width  about 
three  degrees  of  longitude,  and  in  length  one  degree  and  a  quarter  of 
latitude.  Within  this  immenBe  expanse  of  friugo-reef  the  water  is  com- 
paratively shallow,  and  I  am  of  opinion  that  it  has  once  formed  a  portion 
of  the  mainland  ;  there  is,  however,  a  channel  of  deep  water  near  the 

K9ind.  Few  of  these  reefs  are  marked  in  the  chart,  but  I  had  a  good 
pportunity  of  observing  and  noting  their  extent  in  1876,  when  I  was 
cruising  about  them  for  several  months,  and  I  am  sorrj'  to  say  I  made  no 
actual  survey  of  them. 

The  cwast-lino  of  New  Guinea  from  East  Cape  to  Huon  Gulf  presents 
mnch  the  same  appearance  as  the  point  immediately  opposite  China 
Straits,  the  land  being  high  and  well  wooded,  with  many  signs  of  culti- 
vation, A  few  of  the  natives  came  off  to  us  in  their  canoes,  bringing 
coco-nuts,  yams,  taro,  aud  other  edibles,  but  they  do  not  put  to  sea 
except  in  light  weather,  as  they  do  not  appear  to  have  such  largo  canoea 
on  this  coast  as  they  have  to  the  southward  amongst  the  islands. 

We  come  next  to  Cape  King  William.  A  more  beautiful  and  healthy 
^_^8pot  for  settlement  than  this  can  scarcely  be  found  in  any  tropical 
H^nntry  in  the  world ;  the  coast  is  bold  and  steep,  rising  in  many  places 
ahoer  from  the  sea,  to  the  height  of  about  1000  feet  and  ranging  inland 
to  the  Finisterro  Mountains  in  terraces  and  tablelands  of  open  grass- 
country,  with  every  facility  for  cattle-grazing,  well  watered  with  streams 
that  take  their  rise  in  the  heights  some  15,000  feet  above.  Bat  it  has  a 
defect  in  having  no  sufficient  harbour.  The  natives  were  at  first  hard  to 
conciliate,  but  a  few  days  of  intercourse  overcame  their  suspicion  of  ua, 
and  I  think  it  often  has  been  this  that  has  led  visitors  to  parts  of  this 
island  to  make  a  wrong  estimate  of  these  natives.  They  generally 
Approach  a  vessel  in  their  canoes  very  warily,  with  spears  and  arms  all 
ready,  in  case  any  hostile  intentions  should  appear  on  the  jiart  of  their 


510 


VISITS  TO  THE  EASTEKN  AND  KORTH-EASTERN 


wonderful  visitors.   They  shout  and  aing,  making  warliko  gestTires  with 

j^thtir  spears^  Lows  and  arrows,  anil  tomfihawks,  but  this  quite  as  mticli  i/> 
•keep  wp  thoir  own  courage  as  io  intimidate  the  new  comers,  and  on  a  first 
acquaintance  this  is  very  likely  to  mislead  those  on  board  a  veaBel,  a*  it 
has  e\'ery  appearance  of  hoBtility  ;  but  fntj  experience  has  led  me  to  the 
conclusion  that  this  is  not  really  so,  but  is  rather  ijitended  to  mean, 
"If  you  come  to  fight,  we  are  ready  for  you."     Let  this  b©  only  looked 
at  in  the  right  light,  and  one  can  see  how  very  strango,  not  to  »y 
alarming,  it  must  bo  for  these  natives,  who  have  perhaps  only  travelled 
a  few  miles  at  the  most  from  their  birthplace,  to  have  visiting  them 
new  a  people,  and  in  so  strange  a  conveyance,  of  whom  probably 
have  no  previous  knowledge.     However,  I  found  that  in  a  abort 
tliis  feeling  of  timidity  was  overcome  by  a  little  quiet  intercourse,  an^^ 
by  the  distribution  of  a  few  pieces  of  red  cloth  and  beads ;  indeed,  •c^ 
succeasfxil  was  I  in  the  present  case,  that  in  about  a  week  after  arriving 
I  was   invited  on  shore  by  an   old  chief,  and  travelled  with    him   « 
considerable  distance  inland. 

After  landing,  we  climbed  a  very  stoep  clifF  of  about  50O  feet,  and  ui 
the  summit  found  fine  grassy  tableland  stretching  some  miles  inshore, 
having  a  gentle  rise,  terminating  again  in  another  abi-upt  cliff,  whidi 
was  considerably  higher  than  tho  one  we  had  first  ascended  ;  tbi«  again 
was  surmounted  by  open  tal>leland.  This  curious  formation  of  country  ■ 
loads  in  this  way  terrace  by  terrace  up  to  tho  immediate  bft«6  of  iho  f 
Finisterro  Mfmntains,  which  rise  in  majestic  grandeur  to  an  altitude  of 
at  least  i;t,000  feet,  tho  clifl's  appearing  to  be  of  baealtic  formation, 
whilst  granite  boulders  are  scattered  about  the  sea-shore.  The  plain* 
above  clearly  ^ihow  that  there  is  a  volcano  or  volcanoes  in  the  vicinity,  by 

Ttlio  large  quantities  of  rotten  pumice-stone  scattered  about  and  over- 
grown by   grass.     The  natives   use  obsidian  for  a  great  number  of 
^puri>oseB,  such  as  for  shaving  thoir  heads  and  faces,  carving  wood,  Ac. 

rkTlio  summit  of  the  FLiiisterre  range  being  nearly  always  obscured  by 
clouds  and  mist,  I  had  no  opportunity  of  ubsciving  whether  there  tms 

1  «aii  active  volcano  or  not  among  tho   mountains  ;  but  judging  by  the 
tindications,  I  strongly  suspect  that  there  iy. 

I  passed  a  very  interesting  and  pleat-ant  two  days  with  my  new 
acfjuaintances,  who  are  nndoubt».ifJly  superior  in  their  intellectual 
.qualities  to  the  natives  of  tho  Gulf  of  Papua,  being  excellent  agricul- 
turists, to  which  pursuit  they  turn,  in  fact,  nearly  the  whole  of  their 
:  attention,  as  there  are  no  reefs  or  harbours  of  any  magnitude  near 
enough  to  facilitate  the  maritime  pursuits  of  fishing  or  trading  in  canoes 
which  is  80  much  indulged  in  by  other  coast  tribes  of  this  island.  They 
Use  also  a  system  of  irrigation,  by  means  of  pipes  made  of  bamboo  joined 
together  with  gum,  obtaining  tho  water  from  the  numerous  streams 
that  flow  from  the  mountains  above.  The  labour  employed  on  their  ^ 
yam,  taro,  and  banana  plantations  ia  chiefly  that  of  slaves  taken  in 


COASTS  OF  NEW  GCINEA. 


611 


hattlo  from  the  inland  tril>es.  Their  houses,  which  are  gtsnerally 
grouped  together  in  ooimiderable  numbers,  are  of  the  l^eohive  form,  built 
of  bamboo,  with  posts  of  coco-nut  palm  stems,  and  are  thatched  with  the 
leaves  of  the  sugar-cane,  their  sidea  being  covered  in  with  mats  of 
pandanns  leaf,  which  ore  rolled  up  during  the  daytime  to  allow  a  free 
current  of  air  through  the  hut,  the  flooring  being  composed  of  picooB  of 
email  broken  coral,  which  forms  a  very  white,  clean,  and  wholesome 
pavement;  in  each  group  of  houses  there  is  generally  a  larger  one 
for  the  purpose  of  meetings,  and  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers. 

Astrolabe  Bay,  which  lies  a  little  further  to  the  northward,  would 
make  a  good  port  for  this  part  of  the  island  Bhould  it  ever  become  a 
settlement  of  white  men,  especially  if  a  large  river  which  I  believe 
empties  into  the  south-west  bight,  prove  to  be  navigable.  I  say 
"  believe  "  because  T  have  never  actually  seen  this  river ;  but  by  the 
yellow  and  muddy  appearance  of  the  water,  as  well  as  by  the  quantity 
of  drift«wood  in  this  part  of  the  bay,  I  was  led  to  conclude  that  a  large 
river  does  discharge  itself  near  hcre»  It  was  here  that  the  celebrated 
Russian  ethnologist  and  traveller,  M.  Miklukho-Maclay,  resided  for 
some  months,  in  order,  I  believe^  to  make  anthropological  investigations. 

Before  going  any  further  northward  on  the  coast  of  New  Guinea,  let 
me  say  a  few   words  us  to  the  volcanoes   of  the  island   group  lying 

P immediately  to  the  east,  and  separated  from  it  only  by  comparatively 
narrow  straits.  It  is  a  somewhat  curious  fact  that  there  are  no  volcanoes 
in  Kew  Ireland,  whilst  they  alxiund  on  the  north  coast  of  New  Britain. 
On  the  south  side  of  the  latter  island  there  in  no  appearance  of  there 

■,«ver  having  existed  a  vt.)lcnno,  I  will  trace  them  here,  for  they  are 
fcemarkable  as  forming  a  complete  chain  of  burning  mountains,  and 
which  in  after  years,  when  New  Guinea  is  Ijetter  known,  will  no  doubt  be 
found  to  stretch  across  the  centre  of  that  island  and  form  the  connecting 
link  with  the  volcanic  islands  found  on  the  western  side.  On  Blanche 
Peninsula,  in  Now  Britain,  is  the  mountain  calknl  the  "  Mother,"  extinct, 
nd  a  smaller  active  volcano.  It  vms  during  the  eruption  of  the  latter  in 
y  1878  that  an  island  70  feet  in  height  rose  in  Blanche  Bay  during 
10  night.  In  the  centre  of  Gnzt'lle  Peninsula  stands  Mount  Beautempe- 
liinjires,  an  extinct  volcano  :  further  east  stand  the  stately  •*  Father  and 
lS,"  two  of  which  are  active,  as  well  as  one  on  Du  Porttul  Island  lying 
lOM  to  them.  Between  these  latter  and  Deception  Point  lie  many 
ir  craters,  the  point  itself  being  composed  of  several  large  vol- 
iinoes,  whilst  the  islands  of  Cicqucl  Raoul  and  Willaoumez  each  hare 
C'ir  own  crater.  Cape  Gloucester,  the  western  extrerai  ty  of  New  Britain, 
seen  from  a  little  distance  at  sea,  presents  the  appearance  of  being  one 
of  fire  from  the  numerous  craters  there  in  action.  Tupinier  Island 
active  volcano;  Rook  Island  is  extinct,  but  has  the  appearance 
not  having  been  long  so  ;  as  are  also  the  craters  of  Lottin,  Long,  and 
own  Islands.     Rich  and  Dam  pier  Islands  arc  both  volcanic,  but  are  not 


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COASTS  OF  NEW  GUINEA. 


513 


The  shore  at  this  point  is  low  and  sandy,  having  very  little  rise  for 
[a  considerable  distance  inland,  but  the  land  then  risea  more  rapidly, 
Ifoiming  the  flank  of  a  range  of  mountains  which  appear  to  be  thicklj^ 
hoovered  with  timber. 

The  coaat  from  Passier  Point  to  numlx)ldt  Bay,  although  hilly,  is  of 
much  less  altitude  than  further  to  the  southward  about  Cape  King 
William,  but  it  appears  rich  land,  with  plenty  of  coco-nut-palm  groves 
and  wild  nutmeg  trees  ;  there  are  also  numerous  little  indentations  and 
bays  in  the  coast  which  are  not  shown  on  the  chart,  but  which  will  bo 
available  some  day  as  excellent  ports  for  a  coasting  trade.  In  several  of 
them  we  had  very  friendly  detilings  with  the  natives,  who  appeared 
extremely  astonished  at  our  %vhite  skin,  and 'were  much  delighted  to 
find  that  it  turned  red  on  being  rubbed,  but  I  think  the  thing  that 
surprised  them  most  was  the  fact  of  our  wearing  hats,  and  at  one  place 
they  fairly  tumbled  out  of  their  canoes  with  fright  when  I  lifted  mine 
off,  evidently  thinking  that  I  was  removing  a  portion  of  my  head. 
Their  canoes  are  fine  large  boats,  much  omamented  with  carving  and 
•hells,  some  of  the  larger  ones  carrying  sails  somewhat  similar  in  shape 
I  to  the  wing  of  the  flying  fish. 

'  There  are  several  unimportant  river  mouths  in  this  part  of  the  coast, 
which  bring  down  a  large  quantity  of  drift-wood,  and  here  we  picked 
u\)  a  gCKxl-sized  bough  of  the  camphor-wood  tree. 

Humboldt  Bay  is  the  best-known  harbour  on  this  part  of  the  coast, 
having  been  visited  by  the  Challeiujer  in  her  voyage  round  the  world. 
It  is  also,  I  believe,  the  site  of  a  Dutch  missionaiy  station,  although  wo 
saw  nothing  of  it  when  we  were  there  j  this  may  have  been  owing  to 
the  shortness  of  our  stay,  as  well  as  to  the  fact  of  our  anchoring  on  the 
southern  shore,  not  far  from  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  However,  we 
found  here  natives  some  of  whom  could  say  a  few  words  of  English,  and 
who  were  very  eager  for  European  manufactured  tobacco,  though  I 
cannot  say  that  they  improssed  mo  with  being  a  very  friendly  or 
attractive  race ;  they  are  distinctly  different  from  those  of  Capo  King 
William,  ^being  darker  and  of  a  more  Malayan  type,  and  appear 
treacherous  and  noisy. 

The  coast  between  Humboldt  Bay  and  Point  B'Urville  is  for  the 
most  part  high,  rocky,  and  rugged,  though  much  broken  into  bays  and 
creeks,  but  parts  (and  these  appear  to  be  the  mouths  of  streams)  are  low 
and  swampy,  having  thick  forcKts  of  mangrove  bushes. 

Before  re-aching  Point  D'Crville  (which  was  the  last  point  on  this 
coast  we  visited)  the  eastern  mouths  of  AmbemoH  river  are  passed,  and 
they  certainly  appear  to  be  navigable  for  small  vessels  at  least ;  should 
this  prove  to  l^e  the  case  on  closer  investigation,  then  I  believe  that  this 
river  will  become  a  highroad  into  the  interior,  and  that  an  exploring 
party  travelling  up  it  southward,  and  another,  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion, up  the  Fly  river,  might  meet  in  the  interior,  and  do  much  to 


5U 


VISITS  TO  THE  EASTERK  AND  NORTH-LASTERN 


open  up  to  science  a  laiid  that  is  at  present  shrouded  in  the  darkest 

mystery. 

To  conclude  this  necessarily  short  sketch  of  the  coast,  let  me  add  one 
word  on  tho  immense  value  of  this  island  in  a  commorcial  point  of  view, 
in  anticipation  of  a  question  which  %vill  bo,  1  take  it,  the  first  to  Ix? 
asked  by  many  Englishmen,  in  prospect  of  New  Guinea  beoomin^  a 
Brltiiiih  poBsession.  As  far  as  I  have  had  an  opportunity  of  jndging,  the 
inland  is  rich  in  natural  products.  I  will  mention  a  few: — Tortoisa^dl, 
pearl-shell,  ivory-nuts,  gum,  sandal-wood,  camphor  tree,  sago,  arrowroot, 
ginger,  sugar-cane,  coco-nuts,  ebony,  and  bird-of-paradise  pluineB,  wl 
Tiative  tobacco  is  grown  in  large  quantities. 

When  the  island  is  opened  up,  no  doubt  valuable  minerals  will 
found ;  gold  is  known  to  exists  and  I  have  soon  fine  specimens  of  ooppe 
and  black  sand  that  contains  tin,  brought  from  New  Guinea.     Indeed  ^fet/ 
is  well  known  that  nature  has  been  exceedingly  bountiful  to  the  islaa^^^ 
o(  tho  Malay  Archipelago  and  Australasia;  but  I  believe  this  islan^^ 
although  the  last  to  bo  developed,  will  prove  to  be  the  most  favoured-    ^W 

As  to  climate,  I  have  tried  to  show  how  easy  it  would  he,  on  ti^ 
north-east  coast,  to  escape  the  malarious  fevers  which  cling  to  all  low. 
lying  country  in  these  latitudes. 

Should  tho  annexation  by  Queensland  be  concluded,  I  trust  she  wiil 
nut  make  the  great  mistake  of  securing  only  the  south  coast  (whiclj  ij* 
no  doubt  the  moat  necessary  to  her  safety),  but  tako  the  whole  island. 
This  I  urge  in  tho  name  of  humanity  for  the  sake  of  the  natives,  i» 
otlier  nations  do  not  always  treat  their  dark-skinned  subjects  with  the 
same  consideration  as  the  English. 

In  conchision,  I  may  state  I  have  great  hopes,  l>eforo  the  end  of  the 
present  year,  of  being  able  to  undertake  an  expedition  to  examine  the 
coasts  (and  as  far  as  pmcticablo  the  interior)  of  the  islands  of  N#w 
Ireland,  New  Britain,  and  tho  Admiralty  Group,  with  the  northern  and 
eastern  coasts  of  New  Guinea,  and  to  combine  with  this  anthropologiosl, 
ethnological,  and  zoological  researches;  but  in  order  to  acc<^>i  /?> 

work,  which  should  not  be  delayed,  funds  will  be  needed  to  t:  lu 

of  6000f,,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  scientific  sociotieB  of  Great 
Britain  will  not  be  found  backward  in  helping  on  so  essential  a  work. 

The  FBE8IDENT,   in  iiitrmlncing  the  author  of   the    above   j^aper,  said  th»t 
Mr.  Tuwell  bad  spent  eight  years  of  his  life  in  that  region.     He  first  made  hlnuelf  J 
known  to  the  Geographical  Society  by  a  paper  on  New  Britain  (w'h*?re  he  had  spent  j 
tlireo  years),  which  was  read  before  the  Geographical  Section  of  the  British  Associa-f 
tioti  at  Swansea  in  1880,  and  was  anorward.s  publisbed  among  the  ptpers  of  i 
Society.     He  had  coasted  along  New  Guinea  and  the  adjacent  island^  and 
explored  with  care  no  less  than  1200  railea  of  the  eastern  and  north-eastern  ouis 
Pcrliaps  of  till  the  large  countries  of  the  world  New  Guinea  was  the  one  of  wl 
least  was  known.     People  were  apt  to  speak  of  it  as,  next  to  Australia  and  Bor 
the  largest  island  in  the  world ;  but  recent  explorations,  and  calculations 'made  J 
coiupeteat   Grcrraan  geographers,   bad   established  tho   fact  that  it  was  a   Itirj 


COASTS  OF  KEW  GUINEA.— DISCUSSION. 


515 


^Bnn 


tliati  Borneo.     The  area  of  the  main  island  was  303,241  Englisb  square 

,  or  adding  to  it  the  islands  iLuuiediately  adjacont^  joi^t  as  the  Hebrides  and  the 

lile  of  Man  were  added  to  the  British  Islands,  311,958  square  miles,  thus  proving  to 

iy,13'l  square  miles  larger  than  Borneo.     England  and  Ireland  together  were 

121,000  square  miles;  Franco  was  201,000  square  miles— making  together  a  total 

of  325,000  aqtiare  miles.    New  Guicea  was  therefore  nearly  as  large  as  the  British 

»kuds  and  France  put  together. 

After  the  reading  of  the  paper. 

Admiral  Mobksdy  8aid  they  must  all  have  listened  with  a  great  deal  of  gratifi- 
eation  to  Mr.  Poweirs  account  of  his  persevering  exY>lorfttion  of  the  island  of  New 
Guinea,  which  was  now  attractin;»  such  a  great  deal  of  attention.    As  it  was  hi& 
^(Admiral  Moresby'n)  lot  to  be  amongst  the  first  to  bring  to  light  the  easterfi  and 
ftrirth-co.steni  shores  of  that  island,  he  naturally  felt  particular  interest  in  the  paper. 
At  the  time  when  he  made  his  voyage,  and  afterwards  when  he  wrote  his  book  ou  it, 
ho  was  enthusiastic  on  the  subject,  and  met  with  severe  criticism.   The  views  which 
he  held  were  regarded  by  many  as  not  well  founded  ;  but  he  waa  sure  even  then  that 
though  the  question  might  sleep  it  would  awaken  again,  and  now  after  eight  years 
It  had  done  so,  and  he  did  not  think  it  would  be  again  allowed  to  sleep  until  it  was 
l^flecided  one  way  or  the  other  to  whom  this  great  island  was  to  belong.   Ho  agreed  with 
"lir,  Powell  in  saying  that  England  ought  to  take  the  whole  island  ;  but  it  was  the 
Ottlh-oastem  part  which  dominate<l  over  Australia,  and  which  was  of  the  grealCfit 
DC©  with  regard  to  Queensland.     Ee  iherefore  hoped  that  Mr.  Powell  would 
i  them  somethijig  more  about  the  healthiness,  the  produce,  and  m  forth,  of  the 
IfOOth-eastera  peninsula.     Many  inaccurate  accounts  had  appeared  in  the  newspapers 
[About  what  he  (Admiral  Moresby)  did  in  1 873  and  1874,    Ue  had  miule  no  attempt  to 
Btnnex  any  part  of  New  Guinea,  for  that  had  been  done  seventeen  years  previously  by 
Lieuteonnt  Yule,  under  the  ordera  of  Captain  Owen  Stanley,  near  Redscar  Bay.    All 

fthttt  he  did  was  to  discover  that  New  Guinea  did  not  extend  so  far  to  the  eastwarii  by 
LO  miles  as  ha»i  becu  supposed.  Of  course  that  was  officially  reported,  and  it  remained 
for  the  Government  to  do  as  they  pleased  about  it.  It  was  strictly  within  the  right  of 
every  British  subject  to  hoist  the  flag  of  his  nation  on  any  laud  which  he  discovered. 
That  a<it  implied  nothing  except  the  postponement  of  a  claim  by  any  other  nation 
tmttl  his  own  Government  had  decided  what  their  action  would  be.  He  was  glad 
that  Mr.  Powell  had  spoken  of  the  new  route  to  China  through  Goschen  Straits  and 
Dampier  Straits,  for  that  was  the  shortest  route  from  Australia  by  some  300  miles. 
It  had  been  very  much  inveighed  against,  and  it  Lad  been  said  that  it  never  would 
^.  come  into  use ;  but  he  felt  more  certain  now  than  he  did  in  1874  that  it  would 
eventually  become  the  great  highway  of  commerce  between  Eastern  Austndia  and 
I  China.  Some  people  considered  that  this  could  not  be,  because  the  trade-winds  were 
itinoertain,  the  monsoons  irregular,  the  currents  variable,  and* reefs  abounded;  but 
^the  days  of  sailing  vessels  were  fast  fia^siog  away,  and  the  time  would  come  when 
that  sen  would  be  a.s  well  surveyed  as  the  English  Channel.  He  could  quite  bear 
^out  Mr.  Powell's  remarks  with  regard  to  the  north-east  coast.  It  was  n  grand,  a 
»plendid  coast,  abounding  in  beautiful  harbours.  The  whole  country  was  apparently 
^"very  healihy  and  very  fertile,  with  an  cnonnous  amount  of  cleared  land,  and  the 
Lnaiives  were  friendly,  so  far  as  their  fears  would  allow  them  to  be  so.  On  Moresby 
f  Island,  after  a  good  deal  of  searching,  he  found  one  small  specimen  of  gold,  and  no 
^<li<ubt  there  was  more  there.  He  also  found  steel  sand  in  Bobert  Hall  Soxmd  and 
In  various  other  places.  One  great  reason  why  he  thought  New  Guinea  should 
klxiU-tng  to  England  waa  that  the  Enj^lish  were  the  closest  to  it ;  and  if  it  wdre  said 
it  we  could  not  populate  it,  what  other  nation  could  ?    The  Island  belonged  to 


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A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE,  ETC 


517 


B  therefore  belter  for  forming  a  settlement.    The  great  place  for  the  protection  of 

.tistralia  was  Torres  Strait.     An  enemy's  ship  could  pass  through  to  the  northward 

Warrior  Reef  without  being  observed  by  the  settlement  at  the   Government 

Itetion  on  Tbur»lay  Island.     Indeed,  if  a  fort  were  built  on  Friday  Island  or  Goode 

land,  which  was  supposed  to  command  the  Prince  of  Wales'  Channel,  it  would  not 

t  the  enemy's  ship  slipping  round  by  Warrior  Reef,  and  running  down  to  the 

of  Australia,  and  dcmandint;;  a  heavy  indemnity  from  some  of  the  towns  on  the 

tern  coast  of  Queensland,  such  as  Coukistown,    The  enemy  could  threaten  to  shell 

le  town  if  they  did  not  jmy  one  million  pounds  of  money,  an  amount  which  was 

ien  deposited  in  the  bank  from  the  goldfields.     At  present  there  was  no  telegraph 

m  Thursday  Island  to  the  southern  parts;  but  if  forts  were  built  in  New  Guinea, 

Goode  Island,  and  Mulgrave  Island,  then  it  would  be  impossiljle  for  any  ship  to 

treep  through,  because  they  could  not  pass  at  night-time.     ITiere  was  no  occasion 

br  laying  toq>eiIuea ;  all  th.it  was  required  was  to  have  good  earthworks  and  heavy 

Juns.     It  would  be  very  awkward  for  Queensland  if  an  enemy  were  in  possession  of 

Ihe  southern  coast  of  New  Guinea.    Queensland,  probably,  had  not  more  men  to  put 

into  the  field  than  would  fonn  one  regiment,  and  therefore  could  not  protect  herself, 

ind  it  was  very  questionable  whether  she  would  be  able  to  have  the  assistance  of  any 

l^ips  belonging  to  the  British  lleeL     She  would  Imve  to  telegraph  to  Sydney  for 

ibem,  and  they  would  take  some  time  to  go  a  distance  of  IGOO  miles  along  the  coast. 

|The  indemnity  would  probably  be  paid  before  any  such  vessel  arrived. 

1      The  Presidekt,  in  proposing  a  vote  of  thanks  to  Mr.  Powell,  said  he  had  no 

pBoubt  that,  from  this  day  forward,  exploration  would  bo  more  frequent  than  in  the 

pMii  along  the  coasts  of  New  Guinea.     It  was  clearly  Mr.  Powell's  opinion  that,  in 

order  to  guarantee  the  safety  of  Queenshind,  the  island  of  New  Guinea  should  be 

upienl.     The  Geographical  Society  had  nothing  to  do  with  these  political  questions^ 

all  Englishmen  must  feel  that  if  the  colonisLs  had  set  their  minds  upon  getting 

'ssion  of  the  island,  they  would  du  it.    The  colonista  in  sparsely  populated 

were  apt  to  have  rather  rough  hands,  and   the  most  enterprising  were 

Iways  the  most  humane  or  civilised  representatives  of  our  country.    There- 

if  there  was  a  proljability  of  New  Guinea  being  seized,  he  echoed  the  wish 

it  should  be  taken  fiosseiiisioa  of  in  such  a  way  as  to  insure  the  rights  of  a 

people  who  appeared  to  Iwj  singularly  friendly.     He  wished  that  ho  could  say  that 

the  English  mode  of  dealing  with  the  inhabitants  of  uncivilised  countries  was  always 

Itapcrior  to  that  of  other  nations,  for  there  were  many  dark  passages  in  English 

■nistory  with  respect  to  our  dealings  with  native  races.     He  hoped  that  if  New 

Guinea  was  to  be  taken  possession  of  by  England,  it  would  be  carried  out  in  such  a 

way  that  we  should  have  no  cause  to  blush  for  it. 


A  Visit  io  (he  Masai  People  living  hetjond  the  Borders  of  the 
Nguru  Country.    By  J.  T.  Last. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting,  June  23th,  1883.) 
Map,  p.  568. 

ys  November  2nd  I  mado  up  at  our  statiout,  Marn'ooin,  a  small  caravan, 

Donsisting  in  all. of  about  twenty  men,  and  started  on  a  visit  to  the 

lasai,  who  Uve  juat  beyond  the  borders  of  the  Ngnrn  country.     My 

itention  was  first  to  form  a  good  acquaintance  with  their  neighbours 

10  Wangurn,  and  through  them  to  obtain  access  to  the  Masai  living  at 


518 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOXD 


NdulMi  ami  Bokwa.     I  thouglit  it  would  be  easier  to  reacli  the  1 
by  tbe  help  of  tlie  Wa-ngnru,  many  of  wliom  are  Httlo  better  than  slftVM 
to  them,  than  if  I  trusted  simply  to  my  own  resources. 

From  Mamboia  we  went  on  to  Madidi,  passed  the  villoges,  and 
thence  on  to  Bwagamayo.  Hero  wo  loft  the  road  we  had  traversed  lft*t 
year  when  we  went  into  the  Nguru  con u try,  and  took  another  path 
bearing  more  towards  the  east.  This  took  ua  to  Berega.  Her©  wo 
arrived  at  a  large  village,  where  several  of  ray  porters  lired.  We  met 
with  a  very  ready  welcome^  the  people  supplying  us  with  fire,  water, 
and  good  sleeping  room.  The  people  themselves  are  verj'  quiet  and 
friendly,  but  live  in  continual  fear  of  raids  by  the  Wa-hmuba.  They  tuv 
a  mixture  of  Wa-megi,  with  a  few  Wa-nguru.  Their  villages  consist  of  a 
number  vf  round  huts  in  the  middle  of  a  large  tembe  ur  fence.  The  huU 
are  genei'ally  very  dirty,  and  abounding  with  vermin  of  various  descrijK 
tifms,  including  rats,  which  are  innumerable  and  most  audacious.  The 
people  themselves  are  not  remarkable  for  cleanliness,  and  wear  but  little 
clothing — a  piece  of  skin  or  dirty  oily  cloth  behind  and  before.  The 
want  of  cloth  seems  to  be  a  small  matter  with  them,  as  they  make  tip 
for  this  deficiency  by  well  smearing  their  bodies  with  a  compound  of  oil 
or  fat  and  red  clay  (castorn^il  or  bullock's  fat  is  generally  preferred). 

The  women  are  here,  as  elscvvhore,  verj''  fond  of  ornaments :  theae 
consist  of  beads  of  various  kinds  and  colours  worn  round  the  loins  aui] 
neck ;  somotimeH  theso  accumulate  to  a  weight  of  18  or  20  lbs.  They 
are  also  very  fond  of  wearing  iron,  brass,  and  copper  bracelets,  ^^Tistltt*, 
anklets,  and  collars.  These  varj"  in  size,  according  to  the  means  of  the 
wearer,  or  of  her  husband  or  father.  Most  of  the  people  have  a  fc-w 
goats  and  fowls;  the  goats  they  arc  verj-  loath  to  part  with,  but  fowla 
they  sell  at  the  rate  of  a  yard  of  cloth  each. 

We  were  up  and  ofi'  again  at  5 .  30,  on  the  way  to  Mwandi.  Previous 
to  leaving  I  gave  the  people  of  the  house  where  I  slept,  two  yards  of 
clo(h  for  their  kindness  to  us.  Vt'e  parsed  over  undulating  ground^ 
rough  and  stony,  as  if  of  quartz  broken  up  into  very  little  pieces.  This 
was  very  trying  to  the  men's  feet.  Now  and  then,  on  ridges  of  red  clay 
(udotitjo),  there  were  a  number  of  "  table-topixcd  mimosa "  and  hirge 
calabash  trees.  After  a  time  we  came  to  a  river  some  20  yards  wide 
flowing  with  a  stream  of  brackish  water  some  18  inches  deep.  The 
whole  bed  was  thickly  overspread  with  coarse  gross  and  reeds  rising 
some  15  feet  high.  On  the  opposite  bank  were  some  fine  Mpulamujii 
and  other  trees.  Just  before  entering  Berega  wo  passed  through  a 
thicket  of  trees  bearing  very  long  and  sharp  thorns ;  these  are  called  by 
the  natives  nukonfjoi.     At  Berega  the  water  is  very  brackish. 

Nearly  all  the  distance  between  Berega  and  Mwandi  Kwa  Madila  the 
country  is  clothed  with  belts  of  thick  scrubby  bush,  varied  with  flat,  open 
places  having  a  stunted  tree-grow  Hi.  The  soil  is  chiefly  red  earth, 
varied  with  large  rocky  surfaces  and  rough  stony  ground.     We  reached 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGITRD  COUNTRY. 


519 


I 


Mwandi  about  7.15,  and  after  a  stay  of  about  fifteen  minutos  continued 
our  march  to  Mahedu  Kwa  Kifam,  accompanied  by  some  of  the  natives 
who  had  some  business  at  that  village.  The  country  was  similar  to  that 
travelled  over  the  previous  day.  About  two-thirds  of  the  way  botwoou 
jUIwandi  and  Mahedu  we  came  to  a  remarkable  rock.  It  was  about 
15  feet  high,  and  had  in  its  centre  u  large  cavity  some  25  feet  wide  and 
130  feet  long.  This  had  a  good  amount  of  drinkable  water,  3  feet  deep 
except  at  one  end.  There  was  a  mark  which  showed  that  the  water  was 
some  3  feet  higher  at  the  last  wet  season.  This  water-pool  forms  the 
chief  drinking  place  of  all  the  forest  beasts  round  about.  It  looked  very 
beautiful,  being  covered  with  white  water-lilies  all  in  full  flower.  We 
rested  her©  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  went  on  to  Mahedu.  Uere  w© 
Game  to  a  village  of  largo  size  for  this  country,  having  a  population  of 
about  300.  A  case  connected  with  witchcraft  was  being  tried  by  two 
groups  of  men  assembled  in  a  valley  near  the  village,  and  I  was  able,  by 
dint  of  remonstrances  and  advice,  to  stop  the  proceedings,  and  thus 
prevent  the  brutid  sacrifice  of  a  life,  which  seemed  to  be  imminent. 

The  contending  parties  joined  and  said  that  my  words  were  go*xl 
and  that  they  would  let  the  matter  drop.  They  bid  each  other  farewell, 
and  Beparated.  I  went  with  the  Chief  Kifaru  and  his  men  to  hh 
village.  The  chief  was  apparently  viry  grateful  for  what  I  said  in  the 
matter,  and  avowed  that  he  did  not  himself  believe  in  witoljcraft.  Ho 
pQtnted  out  a  good  place  for  my  tent  in  his  village,  and  after  a  ehort 
time  brought  me  a  good  sheep  and  some  Indian  cornfli.}ur.  We  passed  u 
pleasant  evening  with  tlie  natives.  There  are  hero  a  number  of  men 
who  are  always  ready  to  go  on  short  journeys  to  the  Masai  and  otljer 
districts.  Many  came  and  offered  themselves  to  mo,  and  when  they 
found  I  did  not  need  them  they  begged  that  I  would  send  for  them 
should  I  want  men  at  any  time. 

At  6  the  next  morning  we  were  on  the  road  again.  I  made  the 
ohief  a  present  in  return  for  the  sheep.  The  road  was  very  rough  for 
about  an  hour  and  a  half,  afterwards  becoming  more  leveL  W^o  passed 
the  hill  and  villages  of  Kiziwa  about  an  hour  to  the  west  of  us.  Thence 
wo  went  on  to  the  little  stream  Nkulukumba.  The  water  was  so  bad  that 
wo  could  only  just  wash  our  mouths  with  it.  After  fifteen  minutc-s' 
rest  wo  went  on  to  Chaguwar:  Kwa  Majuni.  Here  there  is  a  good  river 
of  drinkable  water.  The  people  came  out  to  see  and  salute  us.  From 
Chaguwari  we  went  on  to  Maguo,  which  place  wo  reached  at  12.45. 
Here  there  are  four  g^tod-sized  villages.  In  every  village  we  have  yet 
camped  in  I  find  people  who  know  me.  At  Maguo  there  were  son* 
natives  who  had  lately  been  working  at  Mamboia,  and  had  spoken  of  mo 
in  such  a  manner  on  their  return  that  the  village  people  gave  us  a  very 
good  welcome.  The  ])eople  are  very  superstitious.  In  the  village  there 
are  a  number  of  Irmg  poles  and  bamboos,  at  the  top  end  of  w  hich  small 
calabashes  are  hung  containing  various  charms  against  isiekneas,  war, 


620 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


wild  beaste,  and  others  in  favour  of  women  lK?aring  many  children  ami 
the  gardens  produuing  plenteoiifilj.  Outside  the  village  there  is  on 
every  path  a  nuraljor  of  small  clay  images  of  men  and  women.  Theae 
are  the  appointed  guiardians  of  the  road,  supposed  to  preserve  the 
village  from  both  man  and  beast.  In  the  village  there  is  a  M-humbft 
with  two  wives  and  four  children  living,  who  all  have  much  better 
features  than  the  natives  of  the  district.  The  man  was  very  friendly 
disposed,  and  as  he  knew  Ki-ngurn  we  were  able  to  talk  together  for 
some  time.  There  is  here  a  fine  long  valley  planted  with  banaDaa,  but 
as  they  are  seldom  hoed  they  do  not  bear  much.  The  water  is  very  good. 
Food  is  either  sc^irce  or  the  people  wish  to  make  a  good  profit  out  of  as, 
A  few  men  hero  offered  themselves  for  caravan  work  to  the  Masai 
country  should  I  need  them. 

We  rested  hero  all  Sunday.  During  the  day  we  had  the  ordinary 
Church  service  in  Swahili,  at  which  many  of  the  natives  attended.  On 
Monday  we  started  again  at  C  a.m.,  and  marched  over  undulating  ground 
for  two  hours,  at  the  end  of  which  wo  reached  the  desei-ted  villages  of 
Mlonga.  Only  a  few  months  ago,  when  tho  men  of  the  villages  were 
out  one  day  pombe  drinking,  a  party  of  Wa-humba  came  up,  and  seeing 
there  were  no  men  present,  attacked  the  women,  killing  somOt  taking 
the  others  captive,  and  carrying  off  all  their  cattle  and  goats.  The 
Wa-humba  find  a  ready  market  for  their  captives  amongst  the  Ngam 
people,  who  again  dispose  of  them  ae  slaves  to  the  Swahilis  and  ooast 
people  (Wa-rima).  All  the  gardens  of  this  district  are  now  running  to 
waste  forest  again.  There  are  at  Mlenga  two  remarkable  rocks  or 
boulders  standing  on  the  crest  of  a  hill.  They  are  called  Mawega 
Mlenga ;  standing  out  so  prominentlj'  they  form  good  landmarks  from  a 
considerable  distance.  The  largest  is  a  rectangular  mass  some  60  feet 
high  and  20  feet  on  each  side.  The  smaller  one  is  nearly  as  high,  but 
rises  to  a  point. 

After  resting  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  we  started  again  for  Eliseni. 
The  country  was  more  or  less  rough  all  the  way  to  the  river  Boroma, 
and  abounds  with  game;  buffaloes,  rhinoceros,  and  elephants.  There 
must  have  been  at  least  half-a-dozen  elephants  just  before  us  this 
morning,  judging  from  the  foot-prints  wo  parsed.  A  sportsman  might 
find  plenty  of  work  here,  for  the  natives  never  hunt  in  the  district,  being 
afraid  of  the  Wa-humba,  who  would,  I  believe,  do  no  harm  to  a  Euro- 
pean hunter.  At  the  Bikoma  wo  got  some  excellent  water.  Just  before 
reaching  the  river  we  passed  by  a  deserted  village,  abandoned  for  fear  of 
the  Masai.  From  what  I  learut,  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  the  natives 
brought  tho  evil  upon  themselves.  One  day  two  Masai  oame  to  the 
village,  and  a  native  came  out  and  insulted  them  by  asking,  "  What 
kind  of  Masai  are  you?  You  are  not  Masai,  but  Wa-hnmba."  This 
was  a  groat  insult  to  the  Masai,  as  they  have  the  bitterest  hatred  to  all 
Wa-humba,  and  cannot  bear  to  have  the  name  of  Humba  mentioned 


THE  BORDEHS  OF  THE  NGURU  COU.NTRT. 


before  them.  The  Masai  did  not  say  much,  but  went  home  and  reported 
how  thoy  had  been  iu§ulted.  The  men  at  once  took  up  anna  and  wont 
to  the  village  to  demand  an  explanation.  The  man  who  committed  the 
offence  came  out  again  bravely  enough,  but  was  at  once  speared,  as  was 
also  another  man  who  c^me  to  help.  The  natives  then  ran  away,  and 
the  Masai  returned  homo,  considering  thoy  had  sufficiently  avenged  the 
insult. 

On  reaching  the  Boroma  wo  followed  ita  banks  until  it  took  a  turn 
to  the  north.  At  thta  bend  it  received  the  Luseni,  along  the  edge  of 
which  we  travelled  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  till  we  reached 
the  first  villages  of  Kiseru.  The  people  about  hero  were  very  poor, 
having  scarcely  any  food,  they  themselves  being  obliged  to  go  to 
ibanti  to  buy  what  they  wanted.  The  chief  of  the  village  gave  me  a 
wl  as  a  mark  of  respect,  saying  that  being  poor  he  had  nothing  better 
to  give.  It  was  very  wet  during  the  latter  part  of  our  journey  to-day, 
and  kept  on  raining  all  day  and  night.  I  was  able  here  to  purchase 
one  of  the  native  hoes,  made  of  ebony.  Iron  is  very  scarce,  and  what 
they  have  they  use  for  making  spears  and  arrow-heads. 

The  next  day  was  wet,  but  as  we  were  anxious  to  move  on,  we 
started  about  6.30  a.m.,  and  went  on  to  the  hill  Sagasa.  We  passed 
round  the  south  side  of  this,  and  then  went  on  up  the  Luvumo  valley. 
There  is  here  an  abundance  of  sugar-cane,  and  formerly  much  land  was 
cultivated,  but  agriculture  is  now  neglected  Iwcause  of  the  Masai  and 
Wa-humba.     We  rested  a  short  time,  then  crossed  over  the  little  river, 

I  and  ascended  the  hills  to  the  north.  In  about  an  hour  and  a  half  wo  came 
ko  the  village  of  Daugi,  who  is  said  to  bo  the  chief  of  all  the  Kguru 
jH^nple  around  for  several  miles.  The  rain  fell  in  heavy  showers  all  the 
"way,  so  that  when  we  reached  Dangi's  ^^llage  we  were  in  anything  but 
a  comfortable  state.  The  chief  was  absent,  but  the  people  gave  us  a  good 
welcome  and  house  room,  and  I  quickly  changed  my  wet  clothes  for  dry 
onee.  After  I  had  been  here  about  an  hour  the  chief  came  homo.  He 
also  was  drenched  to  the  skin.  After  he  had  rested  a  little  h«  came,  with 
about  twenty  others,  to  see  me.  I  told  him  of  the  object  of  ray  visit, 
and  that  I  wanted  by  his  help  to  form  the  acquaintance  and  friondship 
of  the  Masai.  Upon  the  second  of  these  points  I  talked  for  some  time 
witli  Dangi  and  hia  people.  I  did  not  say  much  about  his  going  with 
me  to  the  Masai,  as  I  knew  ho  would  wish  to  know  me  better  before 
he  would  consent.  After  this  he  and  his  people  went  away,  and  I 
did  not  see  hira  again  till  near  the  evening.  During  this  time  he  had 
called  my  guide,  a  M-nguru,  by  name  Muhina,  and  learnt  all  he  oould 
about  me.  I  also,  knowing  that  the  man  would  not  help  me  much  unless 
I  gave  him  a  present,  had  put  by  two  or  three  cloths,  so  when  he  came 
I  called  Muhina,  who  gave  him  the  present  and  explained  to  him  fully 
in  Ki-nguru  what  I  wanted,  Dangi  at  once  agreed  to  do  all  he  could  to 
help  me.  Not  knowing  the  customs  of  the  Masai,  I  was  for  startiog  the 
No.  IX.— Sept.  1883.]  2  n 


522 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVLXG  BEYOND 


next  morning  for  tlieir  villages,  but  Dangi  said  this  would  bo  ft  moat 
unwise  thing  to  do,  for  coming  upon  them  so  suddenly  tboy  would  b« 
Kuro  to  think  wo  had  some  evil  design.  His  advice  was  that  we 
ftiBt  form  the  acquaintance  of  Limlm  and  Saja,  and  under  their 
visit  their  villagee.     As  he  know  l>e8t  how  to  act  I  followed  his  advice. 

In  tho  evening  ihere  was  a  great  pombe-symposium,  in  honour  of  a 
child  having  cut  its  first  teeth.  A  pot  of  pombe  containing  alx)tit 
ten  gallons  was  set  in  tho  middle  of  a  sqnaro  for  the  men,  and  a  similar 
one  in  another  place  for  tho  women.  When  all  was  ready,  somo  six  or 
eight  men  rushed  out  of  their  houses  and  fired  off  their  gunjs.  Then  an 
old  woman  camo,  and  with  a  ladle  sprinkleii  about  half  a  pint  of  tk* 
pombe  on  tho  ground^  at  tho  same  time  crying  out  "  Chambiko, 
Chambiko."  After  this  sort  of  libation  she  rushed  up  and  down  tho 
square  followed  by  some  twenty  others,  yunng  and  old,  crying  uut 
"Chambiko,  Chambiko.*'  Tiiia  eontinued  for  about  half  an  hour;  then 
drum-boating  commenced^  and  tho  pombe-drinking  set  in  and  laatetl 
all  night.  The  pombe  spilt  on  the  ground  was  said  to  bo  a  kind  of 
thank-offenng  to  God,  because  of  the  health  of  the  child;  they  tli<^' 
prayetl  that  tho  child  might  be  preserved  and  grow  up  in  health  and 
strength. 

The  whole  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  very  hilly,  and  watered  hj 
many  streams,  the  chief  of  which,  the  Lusugalu,  flows  just  l>clow  Dangi*a 
village,  and  has  excellent  water.  On  tho  sides  of  the  hills  tho 
feed  many  of  their  numerous  herds  of  cattle.  Tho  natives  of  tho 
are  nearly  all  Wa-nguru.  But  they  can  hardly  bo  said  to  be  posseasora 
of  the  land,  for  being  subjugated  by  the  Musai,  they  are  in  a  state  little 
better  than  alaveiy.  No  M-nguru  living  near  the  Masai  would  dare  tr» 
refuse  any  request  they  might  make.  These  Wa-nguru  are  very  gupcr- 
stitious,  as  may  be  noticed  by  tho  number  of  charms  they  use,  and  al8<j 
by  their  conversation.  They  have  some  slight  acquaintance  with  the 
coast  people,  especially  at  Pangani,  by  which  they  are  not  in  the  leAtt 
improved  in  either  manners  or  character.  Having  been  cheated  shame- 
fully  by  tho  Wa-rinia  and  Swahili,  they  have  learnt  the  evil  habit,  aiiJ 
are  ready  to  cheat  wherever  they  see  the  chance,  only  laughing  when 
found  out. 

On  WednesLlay  morning  we  sent  two  men,  each  with  a  kitambi  as  a 
present  to  the  chiefs  Limba  and  Saja.  I  sent  a  present  that  they  might 
know  that  tho  messengcra  came  from  a  friend ;  had  they  gone  empty- 
handed  tho  chiefs  might  have  been  doubtful. 

Whilst  the  messengers  were  gone,  a  number  of  the  natives  came  to 
see  me,  amongst  them  an  aged  Masai,  who  took  his  seat  close  by  me. 
He  looked  at  me  and  did  not  speak  ;  he  looked  again,  and  I  8alutc<l  him 
in  Ki-gogo,  to  which  he  replied.  I  then  saluted  him  in  the  Masai 
language,  which  pleased  him  much,  and  there  was  a  general  laugh  all 
round.     I  was  busy  writing  at  the  time  when  he  came  in,  so  after  a 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  CX)UNTRY.  523 

little  talk  with  him  by  the  help  of  a  native,  I  resumed  my  work.  He 
wondered  what  I  was  doing,  and  asked  one  of  the  natives  what  it  was. 
The  native,  thinking  probably  that  I  should  not  understand,  told  him 
"  Endabira  endasimi," — he  is  making  witchcraft  medicine.  On  hearing 
this  the  Masai  wanted  to  leave  at  once,  for  though  the  Masai  are  much 
feared  by  aU  surrounding  natives,  yet  they  in  their  turn  are  very  fearful 
of  witchcraft.  Before  the  Masai  could  rise  I  made  the  native  recall  his 
words,  and  told  him,  by  the  help  of  others,  what  writing  was  and  its 
use.  When  it  was  thus  explained  to  him  he  sat  down  again,  and  re- 
mained for  some  time.  I  also  took  the  opportunity  to  tell  both  the 
Masai  and  the  natives  that  Europeans  had  no  acquaintance  with  witch- 
craft— ^they  neither  knew  it,  used  it,  nor  feared  it. 

On  Thursday  morning  Dangi,  the  Nguru  chief,  came,  with  some  of 
his  pieople,  to  see  me.  I  here  explained  to  them  that  I  was  not  travelliug 
about  to  seek  ivory  or  cattle,  but  simply  to  get  to  know  people,  that  I 
might  teach  them  the  way  of  God.  There  is  far  less  respect  paid  to 
dealers  in  ivory  and  cattle  than  to  travellers,  for  the  Swahili  dealers 
being  great  rogues,  all  other  traders  are  judged  by  the  natives  to  be  of 
the  same  character.  I  spent  all  the  morning  talking  with  Dangi  and  his 
people.  At  about  2  p.m.  five  Masai  came  to  me  from  the  village  of 
Eleiduruba.  They  had  heard  of  my  arrival,  and  had  come  to  see  me. 
Of  these,  three  were  about  medium  height,  the  other  two  about  6  feet. 
The  features  of  the  former  three  were  very  little  better  than  those  of 
the  ordinary  negro  (probably  they  were  of  mixed  origin,  as  I  hear  the 
Masai  have  many  Nyamwezi  and  Gogo  slaves  whom  they  keep  as 
wives);  the  two  tall  men  had  features  more  closely  resembling  the 
European  type,  long  noses,  and  thin  lips.  Their  hair  was  short  and 
woolly,  very  similar  to  that  of  the  common  natives. 

When  these  five  Masai  arrived  they  would  not  come  into  the  village, 
but  sat  outside  under  a  large  tree.  I  went  out  to  see  them.  I  saluted 
them  all  in  turn.  They  shake  hands  after  the  common  European 
fashion.  This  is  their  native  custom.  The  salutation  is  as  follows  : — 
One  man  goes  up  to  another,  and  seizing  his  hand  exclaims,  "  Shore  ** 
(friend),  to  which  the  other  one  replies  "  Shore ;  Ngassa,"  resp. 
"  Ngassa  "  ;  "  Subbai,"  resp.  "  Subbai  "  ;  "  Ebai,"  resp.  "  Ebai  "  ;  then  to 
all  **  Endai  Subbai,"  resp.  "  Subbai."  They  then  sat  down  to  hear  what 
I  had  to  say.  I  told  them,  through  Dangi,  why  I  was  come,  and  of  my 
desire  to  form  a  friendship  with  them  and  their  people.  This  involved 
a  great  number  of  speeches  backwards  and  forwards.  At  last  when  all 
had  said  what  they  wanted  to  say,  they  consented  that  my  words  were 
good.  Affcer  this  they  wanted  to  make  a  closer  personal  examination  of 
myself.  My  hair  and  beard  was  an  object  of  great  wonder  to  them,  so 
my  cap  had  to  come  off  a  good  number  of  times  to  gratify  their  curiosity. 
The  old  man  of  the  party  was  as  superstitious  as  he  was  curious.  He 
ventured  to  touoh  my  beard,  and  then  looking  down  on  the  ground  he 

2  M  2 


534 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BETOND 


Bpat  some  two  or  three  times,  exclaiming  "  Engai,  Engai "  (God,  Go<1).l 
Tkinking  tliey  meant  that  they  thought  I  was  a  god,  I  at  once  told  them  i 
I  was  only  a  man  like  to  thomsGlvee,  and  they  must  not  name  me  as , 
Engai.      I  afterwarde   found    that   spitting    and  exclaiming    **  Engai,  ] 
Engai,"  was  only  a  way  of  expressing  very  great  astonishment.     ¥nm  \ 
my  head  they  went  to  my  feet.     They  thought  that  my  boots 
really  part  of  my  feet.     Wondering  at  the  sight,  they  inquired  amongst 
thenisolves,  •'  Where  can  his  toes  be  ? "     At  this  I  had  to  take  oflf  my 
boots,  then  my  socks,  so  that  they  could  see  ray  bare  feet.     They  wen 
much  astonished  at  the  sight,  and  when  they  ventured  to  touch  my 
feet,  they  touched  as  lightly  as  if  they  were  afraid  they  would  break 
them.     They  seemed  very  much  surprised  at  what  they  had  seen.   I 
put  my  socks  and  shoes  on  again  at  the  first  opportunit3%  and  after 
talking  we  had  a  little  business  to  attend  to.    The  five  men  wanted  to 
know  what  I  had  to  give  them,  seeing  I  had  come  as  their  friend  ;  they    | 
would  not  be  sure  that  I  was  their  friend  if  I  said  so  simply  by  word  of 
mouth,  and  gave  them  no  other  proof.     As  I  wished  to  gain  their  ocm- 
fidence  I  gave  them  each  two  yards  of  cloth.     This  they  received,  aod 
then  there  was  much  more  speech-making ;  this  ended  in  their  saying 
that  two  yards  of  cloth  was  not  a  very  good  present  and  that  they  would 
be  better  satisfied  if  I  gave  each  an  additional  two  yards.     This,  after  a 
little  talk  with  Dangi,  1  did.     Then  more  epeech-making.     At  the  end 
I  was  told  that  tliey  could  not  take  me  at  once  to  their  village  as  the 
women  and  children   would   be  all  frightened  and  run  away,  and  lo 
would  cause  much  bother.     I  was  obliged  to  consent.     About  4  pji,  \ 
said  farewell,  and  took  their  departure. 

Soon  after  this  I  was  informed  that  a  Masai  followed  by  some  i 
Wa-nguru  had  arrived,  Thiii  was  Saja,  the  son  of  Elangetei,  the  d 
of  all  the  Bouth-eastern  portion  of  the  Masai  country.  He  is  a  young 
man  about  twenty-five  years  of  ago,  over  6  feet  in  height,  of  very  dart 
colour,  fine  features,  approaching  the  European  tjpe,  with  long  straight 
nose,  thin  lips,  and  high  forehead.  Ho  is  held  in  great  fear  by  all  who 
know  him  because  of  his  great  strength,  but  he  is  more  loved  than  feared 
because  of  his  many  friendly  deeds.  He  came  to  see  me  soon  after  hit 
arrival,  and  saluted.  He  said,  "  I  am  Saja  ;  all  people  know  me,  and  will 
tell  you  of  me."  Wo  talked  together  for  a  short  time,  and  then  he  went 
to  on©  of  Dangi's  houses.  Fortunately  this  Saja  knows  Ki-ngtiru  nfljll, 
and  understands  Swahili  when  he  hears  it,  though  he  is  not  abk  in 
epeak  much.  Ho  came  with  Dangi  and  others  in  the  evening  to  see  mt, 
and  we  spent  the  evening  in  talking  about  our  re8i>ective  customs  and 
manners,  looking  at  my  things,  &c.  They  all  left  about  10  p.m.,  and  I 
went  to  bed. 

Saja  came  alone  the  next  morning,  and  I  told  him  in  SwahiU  and 
Ki-nguru  why  I  was  travelling  and  what  I  wanted  to  do.  He  told  me 
tliat  what  I  said  wae  very  good,  but  I  should  find  the  Masai  not  t  Yory 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTRY. 


626 


lot  of  people  to  deal  with,  their  "  Shore»  ehore  "  (friend,  friend)  was 
only  for  what  they  could  get.  I  told  him  that  this  would  not  hinder  the 
whit©  man  from  going  amongst  them.  About  noon  two  of  the  men  who 
oame  yesterday  and  the  under-chief  Eleiguniba  c^me  to  take  me  to  their 
Tillage.  I  should  have  gone  at  once,  but  as  Saja  is  the  son  of  the 
greatest  chief,  and  wants  me  to  go  to  his  father's  village,  I  was  obEged 
to  decline.  Whilst  talking  with  Eleiguniba  (who  seemed  a  very  nice 
fellow)  there  arrived  three  Masai — two  men  and  a  woman  from  Elan- 
get^i,  bringing  as  a  present  a  good  goat,  saying  that  the  chief  was  away 
on  iTory  business  at  Sumatia,  but  if  I  could  wait  for  four  days  he  would 
oome  and  see  me.  As  this  delay  would  keep  mo  longer  than  I  had  in- 
tended to  stay,  and  my  cloth  was  getting  short  (I  only  took  just  what  I 
thought  would  he  necessary,  thinking  that  the  less  I  took  the  Ic^ss  there 
would  be  to  steaU  should  the  Masai  use  force  with  mc)»  I  was  obliged  to 
decline,  and  resolved  to  go  the  next  day  to  Eloiguniba's  village,  on  the 
north-east  side  of  the  Masugula  hills.  So  I  send  my  salaams  to  Elangetei, 
with  the  message  that  want  of  time  hindered  me  from  waiting  for  him 
now,  but  I  had  hopes  of  seeing  him  at  some  future  time.  Had  I  been 
sure  that  Elangetei  would  have  oome  in  four  days^  I  might  have  waited, 
but  Africans  set  so  little  value  on  time  that  he  might  have  kept  me 
■  waiting  a  week  or  two,  or  more.  In  the  evening  Saja  and  a  Masai  friend 
came  in  to  see  me,  and  w©  had  about  three  hours  of  pleasant  conversa- 
tion together. 
H  I  proposed  to  start  early  on  Saturday  momiog  for  Eleigurnba's 
^  village,  but  some  native  affair  turned  up  in  which  Dangi  was  concerned, 
which  kept  him  engaged  for  three  or  four  hours.  During  this  time  Saja 
B.&nd  his  friend  were  with  me  talking.  Saja  was  apparently  thoughtful, 
™  and  weighed  in  his  mind  what  ho  heard  before  he  believed  it.  The 
other  was  too  light-hearted  to  take  much  heed  of  what  we  talked  about. 
A  little  after  noon  Dangi  was  ready»  so  he  and  his  brother,  five  of  my 

»men,  and  myself  started.  On  the  road  wo  saw  large  herds  of  cattle 
Ijrowsing  on  the  hill-sides,  or  else  going  down  to  the  river  to  drink 
before  going  home.  On  the  way  we  passed  some  six  villages  of  Wa-nguru 
who  are  subject  to  the  Masai.  We  reached  the  Masai  village  a  little 
before  4  p.m.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  homba  (village)  we  met 
Eleiguniba  and  some  five  or  six  other  Masai.  AVe  had  a  few  words  with 
these,  and  then  Eleiguruba  took  us  to  the  village.  Here  we  were  stopped 
and  a  few  questions  asked. 

A  man  and  woman  then  came  out,  and  took  us  to  the  house  where  we 
were  to  sleep.  We  placed  our  things  outside  the  house,  and  sat  down,  a 
number  of  the  people  coming  to  look  at  us.  After  we  had  sat  about  ten 
minntes,  we  were  called  out  again.  There  was  some  talking  between 
Dangi  and  a  Masai  called  Oleiboni,  for  ten  minutes  or  so,  and  then  he 
led  us  back  to  our  house.  We  were  quickly  surrounded  by  the  men  first, 
who,  when  they  were  satisfied,  made  place  for  the  women.     My  head, 


526 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  U7IXG  BEYOND 


hands,  and  feet  had  to  undergo  a  general  inspection  bj'  them  all.  They 
were  much  surprised  at  my  appearance,  and  many  were  the  cxclttzuatumK 
of  "Engai,  Engai"  (God,  God).  After  thiB  inspection  was  over,  and 
the  people  were  apparently  Hatislied  as  to  the  peaceful  intentions  of  their 
Wsitor,  they  went  off  about  their  usual  work — the  men  to  drive  the  cattle 
to  their  respective  standing  places,  and  the  women  to  go  round  and  milk. 
While  this  was  going  on,  one  of  tho  Masai  chiefs  fetched  out  a  fine  c*w, 
which  they  killed  after  their  own  fashion.  This  is  done  by  inserting  a 
long,  sharp,  narrow  knife  into  the  back  of  the  neck,  about  half-way 
between  the  head  and  slioulders.  The  animal  drops  at  once.  The  skin 
round  the  wound  ie  then  raised  all  round,  so  as  to  form  a  bag.  The 
blood  enters  this,  and  while  it  is  yet  warm  the  men  drink  it ;  first  one 
takes  his  fill,  and  then  resigns  Lis  place  to  another.  When  the  blood 
is  all  drunk,  the  animal  is  skinned,  cut  up,  and  roasted.  This  is  all 
done  outside  the  village.  The  Masiii  killed  the  cow  for  us,  and  after 
drinking  its  blood,  left  it  for  the  men  to  cut  up  and  roast.  After  the  cow 
had  been  killed  I  returned  to  the  village,  to  see  what  was  going  on  there. 
I  found  that  the  cattle^  oxen,  donkeys,  sheep,  and  goats  had  all  been  put  in 
their  places,  and  the  women  were  going  round  with  their  low  calabaaUe« 
milking  the  cows.  As  there  was  rather  a  scarcity  of  grass,  the  cows 
gave  but  little  milk.  At  no  time  do  they  give  morc  than  half  the  quan- 
tity of  a  good  English  cow.  \Vhen  all  the  work  was  over,  then  the  chiefs 
of  the  village  colloctod  together  outside,  and  called  Daugi  (who  is  really 
their  slave),  to  inquire  what  presents  I  had  brought  them,  seeing  I  hiwl 
come  to  them  as  a  friend.  Daugi  knew  what  I  had,  and  told  them  ;  but 
as  nothing  can  be  done  in  East  Africa  without  a  deal  of  spoech-makiDg, 
the  item  of  presents  kept  them  employed  till  nearly  10  o'clock.  During 
this  time  Eleiguruba,  his  father,  and  two  others,  were  sitting  with  me  out- 
side the  house  together.  They  wanted  to  know  all  about  the  white  man's 
country,  and  whether  they  had  cattle  and  other  things.  Dangi  and  1 
and  the  Masai  sat  talking  for  about  half  an  hour ;  then  all  went  to  sleep, 
Dangi  outside  the  village,  I  and  three  men  inside  the  hut  set  for  our  use. 
It  was  rather  a  hard  bed,  and  the  house  close  and  smoky,  but  as  I  waa 
tired  I  slept  well  till  about  4.30  a.m.,  at  which  time  I  awoke,  got  up,  and 
wont  out.  The  morning  was  fine  and  fresh,  so  I  sat  and  enjoyed  a  smoke 
at  the  hut  door.  The  dawn  was  just  breaking.  I  could  just  discern  the 
men  and  women  walking  about  among  the  cattle.  This  they  do  all 
night  long.  At  5  a.m.  the  women  go  out  to  milk.  This  work  lasts  till 
about  C,  at  wliieh  time  each  herd  of  cattle  is  turned  out  and  taken  to  it« 
own  grazing  place.  The  cattle  are  all  out  and  cleared  off  the  plaoe  by 
7  A.M.  The  boys  generallj'  herd  the  cattle,  but  when  there  are  not  suffi- 
cient boys  the  women  turn  out  and  attend  to  the  business,  the  cattle  being 
out  grazing  from  6  a.m.  till  5  p.m.  If  the  boys  or  women  are  hungry  during 
that  time,  the}'  simply  catch  a  bullock  and  kill  it.  The  women  kill  their 
own,  and  roast  it  themselves,  when  out  in  the  grazing  places.     When  at 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTRT.  62T 

home  they  do  not  kill,  but  liave  to  take  what  the  young  men  please  to 
send  them.  Generally  they  get  the  head,  viscera,  and  all  the  rough 
odd  pieces,  the  young  men  being  careful  to  keep  all  the  best  parts  to 
themselves.  The  women  and  children  who  were  not  engaged  milking 
oows  wore  busy  collecting  the  fresh  cow-dung  which  had  fallen  during 
the  night ;  with  this  they  were  plastering  the  outside  of  their  houses, 
against  the  coming  rains.  During  the  night  the  camp  is  always  well 
watched.  None  of  the  young  men  sleep  in  the  village,  but  in  all  weathers 
they  go  out  in  parties  of  three  and  four,  and  surround  the  village  with 
a  circle  of  camps  at  about  half  a  mile  distant.  Here  they  watch  and 
sleep  by  turns,  so  that  it  would  be  very  difficult  for  any  enemies  to  reach 
the  village  without  their  knowledge.  There  is,  in  fact,  in  every  com- 
munity of  Masai,  always  some  one  on  the  alert.  These  same  young  men, 
when  not  engaged  in  fighting,  are  out  in  the  forest  all  day,  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  herds  of  cattle,  so  that  should  any  enemy  appear  they 
are  there  ready  to  help.  Around  each  village  there  may  be  seen  a  great 
number  of  carrion  birds — the  kite,  the  vulture,  and  another  very  large 
grey  bird  about  2  feet  6  inches  high,  having  a  large  beak  some  8  inches 
long.  These  latter  birds  are  very  tame,  and  easily  caught  by  the 
natives.  They,  however,  never  kill  them,  recognising  their  value  for 
clearing  off  all  carrion  and  offensive  matter. 

I  had  hoped  to  be  able  to  go  on  to  more  villages  further  inland,  but 
the  delay  at  Dangi's  and  the  covetousness  of  the  Masai  had  so  diminished 
my  cloth  that  I  was  obliged  to  retrace  my  steps  at  once.  The  Masai 
were  very  kind  in  their  manner  to  me  wherever  I  met  them,  but  I  could 
see  that  under  all  their  kind  manner  they  were  eager  to  get  what  they 
could  from  me,  thus  making  good  the  words  of  Saja  that  their  "  Shore, 
shore,"  was  for  what  they  could  get.  After  all  the  cattle  were  out,  the 
chiefis  of  the  village  came  together,  and  we  had  talk  till  nearly  9  a.3I., 
in  which  I  told  them  my  object  in  travelling  about.  At  the  end  of  the 
speech-making  one  old  man  stood  up,  club  in  hand,  and  declared  that 
the  Olozungu's  words  were  good.  *'  He  was  going  away  at  once ;  they 
would  be  glad  if  he  would  stay  longer  with  them.  If  he  must  go  now, 
let  him  return  quickly  to  us ;  let  him  bring  cloth  and  beads  for  our  wives 
and  children,  and  let  him  stay  with  us  as  long  as  he  pleases.  All  the 
country  is  his ;  he  may  build  his  house  where  he  pleases."  After  the  old 
man's  speech  was  over  and  translated  to  me,  I  thanked  him  and  all  for 
their  kind  words,  and  told  them  that  if  I  did  not  come  myself,  in  due 
time  some  other  European  would  come  and  see  them,  and  probably  live 
with  them.    At  this  they  professed  themselves  well  pleased. 

At  about  10  o'clock  wo  started  to  return  to  Dangi's  village,  in  company 
with  six  Masai,  who  were  going  with  us  to  get  a  small  present  which  they 
considered  to  be  their  right.  There  was  some  dispute  between  my  guide 
and  the  Masai  about  the  presents.  I  need  not  enter  into  particulars,  but 
Vfill  only  remark  that  much  care  is  needed  in  dealing  with  these  people. 


528 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


and  that  it  ia  very  necessary  to  understand  their  language,  for  both  the 
Swaliili  and  the  other  natives  are  to  lie  little  trusted,  even  in  the  smaUett 

matters. 

Early  on  Monday  morning,  after  a  few  farewell  words  with  Dangi 
and  Suja,  I  set  out  on  my  return  home  to  Mamboia.  Saja's  last  word* 
were  *"  Neimorra  Engai,"  implying,  "  I  shall  pray  for  you  till  your 
return."  We  travelled  by  a  more  southerly  road,  and  entered  the  Luvnmo 
valley  ;  then  paHsing  by  the  south  side  of  Sra>;asa  Hill,  and  over  the 
Lnhiga,  wo  followed  tbe  course  of  the  Luseru  as  far  as  Kiseru.  We  stayed 
to  rest  at  the  village  we  had  slept  in  when  we  were  on  our  way  to  the 
Masai.  Here  we  killed  a  goat  Saja  had  given  us,  and  had  some  food. 
After  a  good  rest  we  started  again,  and  following  the  course  of  thy 
Luseru  and  Boroma,  reached  Kibanti  Kwa  Eigolo  at  3.15. 

This  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  most  suitable  place  for  a  mission  statiou 
north  of  and  withiu  an  easy  distance  of  the  Saadaui  road.  There  is  a 
river  of  good  water  always  running,  good  sites  of  land,  plenty  of  people 
living  in  large  villages,  and  apimroutly  the  chief  and  his  people  would  be 
glad  to  have  a  European  living  with  thorn.  From  observations  of  north 
and  south  stars,  I  found  the  latitude  to  be  5°  54'  26". 

We  started  from  Kibanti  at  5.45  a.m.,  and  reached  the  Mlenga  stoiM*  | 
at  8  A.ai.  There  we  entered  the  road  by  which  we  had  come.  Thcaao»i 
wo  went  on  to  Magiio,  which  wo  reached  at  9 .  45.  Here  we  rested  a  short 
time,  had  wjmo  talk  with  some  of  the  natives,  and  then  went  on  to 
Chaguwari.  Here  a  new  village  has  lately  been  built.  Tho  inhabitants 
are  Wa-iiguru  aud  Wa-asi.  These  Wa-asi  are  a  tribe  closely  alliod  to  the 
Wa-huniba,  whoso  language  they  speak,  but  amongst  themselves  they 
speak  Ki-asL  Dr.  Krapf  speaks  of  tho  same  tribe  in  his  book  *  Travels 
in  East  Africa.*  As  he  says,  they  get  their  living  by  hunting,  and  have 
but  very  few  cattle  of  their  own.  Their  manner  of  dress  and  general 
appearance  is  that  of  the  Wa-humba ;  many  people,  indeed,  call  them 
"\Va-humba.  We  rested  in  their  village  for  about  an  hour.  The  people 
were  very  civil,  and  lent  my  men  cooking  pots,  &c.,  as  they  wanted. 
They  were  good  enough,  however,  to  steal  my  cap,  which  I  had  laid  and» 
for  a  moment  aud  did  not  remtjmber  again  till  we  were  a  good  way  on 
the  road.  We  started  from  Chaguwari  at  1.15,  and  reached  Mahedn 
at  5.45. 

Tho  next  morning  we  were  up  and  started  at  4  A.M.,  and  reached 
Mwandi  at  7.45.  Here  %ve  rested  fifteen  minutes,  and  went  on  to 
Berega  ;  rested  half  an  hour,  and  then  went  on  to  Mamboia,  which  we 
leached  at  12  o'clock. 


Notes  on  the  Masai  People,  theib  Customs,  Ac. 

Tho  Masai  people  are  a  race  differing  in  several  respects  from  tho 
ordinary  East  African  tribes.  Probably  the  extent  of  country  oocupied 
by  them  is  laiger  than  that  occupied  by  any  other  East  Central  African 


THE  BORDEKS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTEY. 


m 


tribe.  Their  moet  southern  limit  is  about  6°  30'  S.,  long.  37°  15'  E.  It 
18  Baid  that  they  extend  northerly  almost  to  Uganda,  and  that  Suna,  the 
father  of  Mteaa,  the  present  king  of  Uganda,  frequently  sent  his  soldiers 
to  fight  them.  Judging  from  what  1  saw  of  them,  I  think  they  may  bo 
a  little  above  the  average  height  of  the  ordinary  negroes,  but  they  aro 
not  such  a  fine  tall  race  as  I  was  led  to  expect.  I  saw  some  three  or 
four  men  who  were  about  6  feet  high.  The  majority  were  of  average 
height*  though  there  were  several  who  would  be  considered  very  short. 
Taken  collectively,  there  was  but  little  differenco  l>etween  the  height 
^B  of  the  men  and  women.  Some  of  the  latter  looked  very  fine,  both  for 
^^  height  and  build. 

The  features  of  the  Masai  are  of  two  kinds.     First,  the  pure  Masai. 

There  is  a  striking  contrast  between  these  and  the  common  negro.    The 

forehead  is  high,  nose  long  and  straight,  lips  thin,  and  the  head  itself 

long  and  narrow  when  compared  with  the  negro's  round  skull.     Some 

^L  few  of  the  young  men  are  of  a  lithe  and  supple  build,  and  apparently 

™  could  run  with  great  swiftness  ;  but  most  of  the  people  are  stouter,  more 

fleshy  than  common  natives.     All  the  women  may  bo  taken  as  finer 

specimens  of  humanity  than  ordinary  negro  women.     The  second  kind 

of  features  is  a  mixture  of  the  pure  Masai  and  the  negro.     This  is 

caused  pmbably  by  the  intermarriages  of  the  Masai  with  the  women 

of  the  surrounding  tribes,  and  also  with  the  Nyamwezi  and  Gogo  slave 

women  whom  they  buy. 

H       The  colour  of  the  Masai  is  generally  very  dark,  almost  black,  though 

^^occasionally  one  may  be  found  of  a  lighter  complexion.     Those  of  a  light 

colour  are  probably  the  offspring  of  a  Masai  father  and  Nyamwezi  mother, 

some  of  whom  are  much  lighter  in  complexion  than  other  tribes. 

Their  hair  is  crisp  and  curly.  The  women  ilo  not  seem  to  dress 
their  hair  much.  The  men,  however,  are  great  dandies.  Because  they 
cannot  get  their  hair  to  grow  long  enough,  they  take  the  inner  bark  of 
a  small  shrub,  split  it  up  finely  and  dry  it  in  the  sun,  then  cutting  it  in 
lengths  about  18  inches  long,  they  weave  it  into  their  own  natural  hair, 
so  makiug  it  apj»arent1y  nearly  two  feet  long.  The  whole  mass  is  then 
well  saturafetl  with  a  mixture  of  fat  and  clay,  collected  together  and 
■(Carefully  bound  into  a  kind  of  pigtail.  Generally  only  one  of  these 
pigtails  is  wurn  behind,  but  sometimes  they  wear  one  behind  and  one 
before  the  head. 
^H  The  clothing  worn  by  the  Masai  men  is  very  scanty.  Ordinary  cloth, 
^■■•which  they  call  engobito  (in  the  llumba  language,  enanga),  is  but  little  used 
by  them,  it  being  very  scarce,  there  being  so  few  traders  who  pass  that 
way.  The  engobito  is  worn  only  by  the  chiefe,  and  the  young  men  when 
on  the  war  path.  They  do  not  wear  it  to  cover  themselves^  but  simply 
fasten  one  end  round  the  neck  and  let  it  flow  out  behind  them.  The  dress 
generally  worn  by  the  men  ranging  from  fifteen  to  forty  years  of  age  is 
'  0  dmagiti.     This  is  a  square,  made  of  a  large  goatskin,  but  more  often 


530 


'A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEVOND 


from  a  young  bullock  s  hide.  The  two  upper  comers  are  joined  by  a 
thong,  it  ia  then  thrown  over  the  head  anil  shoulders,  and  when  on,  jost 
covers  one  side  and  half  the  body.  In  addition  to  this  they  wear  thc- 
olding'ori,  a  heart-shaped  piece  of  skin  which  is  fastened  round  the  loina, 
and  falls  behind.  ThiB  is  used  more  as  a  seat  than  for  a  covering.  ITie 
male  children  do  not  wear  anything,  perhaps  in  a  few  instancea  thoy 
may  have  a  small  olmagiti.  Old  men  sometimes  wear  clothing  similar 
to  women.  The  women  are  very  closely  dressed  and  ornamented.  Thoii 
dress  consists  of  two  largo  pieces  or  stpiarea,  formed  by  sewing  piooes  of 
skin  together.  These  are  called  ohjira.  One  of  these  reaches  from 
above  the  waist  to  the  feet ;  the  other  passes  over  the  shouldew  and 
reaches  nearly  to  the  feet.  They  are  held  together  at  the  waist  by  a 
copper,  brass,  or  iron  zone,  or  by  a  leathern  girdle.  All  the  Matti 
women,  and  even  all  the  female  children,  are  well  dressed,  so  that  only 
their  bands,  feet,  and  faces  are  to  be  seen.  The  men  are  apparently 
very  particular  about  the  dress  of  their  women,  but  have  not  the 
slightest  regard  to  decency  amongst  themselves.  "When  the  Masai  came 
to  Bee  me  at  Dangi  s  in  a  state  of  almost  perfect  nudity,  I  thought  that 
perhaps  it  was  their  travelling  custom,  and  that  in  their  villages  tbey 
were  more  particular ;  but  when  with  them  in  their  homes  I  found  they 
were  less  particular,  for  males  of  all  ages,  from  infauts  to  old  age,  went 
perfectly  naked.  In  that  state  they  walked  and  talked  with  the  women 
who  were  out  milking,  amongst  whom  there  did  not  appear  to  be  the 
least  Bhame  at  the  unseemly  custom. 

Oraumcnta  are  profuBcly  worn  by  the  women,  but  the  mon  seldom 
adorn  themselves  beyond  dressing  their  hair  in  the  manner  above 
described,  and  wearing  a  email  bracelet  made  of  iron  wire  and  beads 
threaded  together.  But  few  men  wear  the  bracelet.  The  women  eni««e 
their  legs  in  iron  wire  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  in  coils  from  tho 
ankles  nearly  to  the  knees,  and  their  arms  from  the  wrists  lo  the  ellx>ws 
in  the  same  metal.  BometimcB  copper  and  brass  are  used,  but  ir^m  seems 
to  be  preferred.  On  the  neck  there  is  a  large  collar  of  metal  wiro ;  this  in 
often  four  inches  wide.  Zones  of  brass  or  copper  wire  are  worn,  two  from 
each  ear,  besides  a  number  of  other  indescribalilo  ornaments  of  beadfs 
and  vnrc.  From  the  neck,  again,  a  crescent  of  ynro  or  iron  is  woni, 
from  which  is  suspended  iron  chains  and  beads.  This  completely  covent 
the  chest.  When  a  woman  is  fully  dressed  and  ornamented,  she  looks 
quite  picturosque. 

The  chief  work  of  the  women  is  to  assist  in  building  and  herding 
cattle,  and  to  milk  the  cows  night  and  morning.  They  also  watch  the 
cattle  at  night  together  with  the  men.  The  old  men  and  women  aad 
very  small  cliildreu  remain  at  home,  the  elder  boys  herd  the  cattle,  and 
the  yonng  men  and  those  to  about  forty  years  of  age  watch  over  the 
cattle  by  Jay  and  village  by  niglit,  a  few  of  them  occasionally  going  on 
a  raid  to  villages  of  the  negro  tribes. 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTRY.  531 

The  weapons  used  by  the  Masai  are  spears  (omfcert),  shields  (dong'o)^ 
swords  (6Ualem)y  clubs  (ologuma),  bow  and  arrows  (oluidndaij  orseitet^ 
ombaid)y  knives  (ossirere).  The  Masai  cut  their  own  wooden  clubs,  but 
they  are  dependent  on  the  surrounding  tribes  for  all  their  iron  instru- 
ments and  weapons.  There  is  no  iron  in  the  country,  nor  do  the  Masai 
know  how  to  work  it.  I  have  been  told  that  formerly  the  Masai  used 
wooden  swords  and  spears  made  from  hard  wood,  but  when  they  came 
to  U-gogo  they  laid  aside  their  wooden  arms  and  took  those  of  the 
Wa-gogo.  The  Masai  shield  is  made  of  ox-skin,  of  oval  shape,  about 
4  feet  6  inches  long  and  2  feet  wide  in  middle.  The  blade  of  the  spear, 
which  is  always  kept  very  bright,  is  generally  18  inches  long  and  5  or 
6  inches  at  the  widest  part.  The  clubs  are  generally  made  from  the 
roots  of  hard  trees.  The  Masai  are  dependent  on  the  surrounding  natives 
not  only  for  t|^ir  weapons,  but  also  for  the  working  up  of  the  metal 
ornaments  of  the  women. 

The  domesticated  animals  of  the  Masai  are  oxen,  sheep,  goats  and  a 
few  dogs ;  they  have  neither  cats  nor  fowls.  There  are  a  few  donkeys  of  a 
poor  kind,  yellowish  grey  in  colour.  Oxen  constitute  the  chief  riches  of 
the  Masai.  These  they  have  in  great  numbera.  In  the  village  where  I 
stayed  there  were  probably  2500  or  nearly  3000.  Other  villages  are  said 
to  have  much  larger  herds.  These  all  have  humps  like  the  coast  cattle, 
though  I  heard  of  some  further  inland  which  are  said  to  have  ver^' 
long  horns  and  no  hump.  Some  of  these  cattle  have  horns  2  feet  long. 
They  are  generally  finer  and  fatter  than  the  coast  cattle,  but  not  so  large 
as  English  oxen.     The  sheep  and  goats  are  of  a  common  kind. 

The  kind  of  cloth  in  greatest  demand  by  the  Masai  is  good  white 
"mericani."  They  are  much  pleased  with  squares  containing  four 
yards ;  that  is,  two  pieces  of  two  yards  long  sewn  together  and  making 
a  square.  They  are  also  fond  of  red  cloths,  which  they  like  to  wear  in 
time  of  war;  small  blue,  pink,  and  red  beads  are  also  much  admired  by 
them,  but  none  so  much  as  a  large  red  bead  with  white  centre. 

There  are  various  causes  which  lead  the  Masai  to  fight  amongst 
themselves,  as,  for  instance,  the  stealing  of  each  other's  cattle ;  or  should 
a  number  of  young  men  go  out  on  the  war  path  without  the  consent  of 
the  chief,  when  they  return  those  remaining  in  the  village  will  turn  out 
and  fight  them.  This  law  is  followed  so  as  to  counteract  the  formation 
of  parties  or  divisions  in  the  settlement.  When  it  is  proposed  to  make 
war  or  a  raid  on  any  place,  the  medicine  man  is  called,  who  goes  to  sleep 
in  the  medicine  house.  Should  he  awake  in  the  morning  with  milk  in 
his  hands,  the  expedition  will  be  successful  and  profitable,  but  should 
there  be  blood  instead,  then  death  and  disaster  is  indicated. 

The  Masai  have  some  notion  of  God — "Engai"— as  the  source  of 
good,  and  "  Essatan,"  the  source  of  evil.  Frequent  sacrifices  are  made 
to  Engai  in  time  of  sickness,  war,  and  dearth.  They  say,  "  Embotisho 
olbeljani  nenguragi  Engai " — "  Call  the  chiefs  that  we  may  worship  (or 


5S2 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


entreat)  God."    They  sacrifice  on  the  hilla,  but  the  Masai  themselvee  do  I 
not  eat  of  the  flesh  so  sacrificed,  but  hfttid  it  over  to  the  Wandnrobo 
(Oluimiri),  who  are  in  servitado  to  the  Masai. 

At  the  time  when  a  person  baa  died,  the  Masai  do  not  wash  the  body, 
but  take  and  place  it  at  the  foot  of  a  tree.  They  then  cover  it  with 
grass,  place  a  buyu  of  milk  at  the  head  and  foot,  and  cover  all  with  an 
ox-skin.  Then  an  ox  is  killed  and  placed  alongside  the  body.  A  pnyer 
is  offered—"  Totona  eiddai;  ctung'aigi  tangera  " — "  Sleep  well,  may  the 
children  you  have  left  behind  fare  well.*' 

When  a  person  dies  in  the  settlement,  an  act  of  purification  has  to  be 
performed.  An  ox  is  killed;  the  dnng  in  the  large  bowel  is  mixed  in  a 
large  pot  with  water ;  then  a  bunch  of  grass  is  taken,  and  the  hotne 
inside  and  out  sprinkled  with  it.  What  is  to  spare  is  emptied  outside 
the  village.  "When  the  body  has  been  laid,  the  bearers  go  and  bathe  in 
the  river.  Grown-up  men  and  women  arc  placed  under  trees,  but  Uttlo 
children  are  buried  outside  near  the  village.  No  purification  is  made  for 
&  child.    An  ox  is  always  given  to  the  Injarers. 

The  rules  connected  with  marriage  are  very  similar  to  those  of  otheT  ' 
African  tribes.  A  man  having  seen  the  woman  of  his  choice,  sends  his 
sister  or  some  other  competent  person  to  the  father  to  t^ilk  over  the  price 
to  be  paid.  This  varies  according  to  the  status  of  the  man  and  the 
woman  who  is  sought  in  marriage.  If  the  daughter  of  a  chief  is  songht 
by  a  chief  or  son  of  a  chief,  then  the  intending  bridegroom  must  pay 
forty  oxen,  forty  goats,  and  twenty  sheep ;  but  if  all  the  parties  con- 
cerned are  poor,  then  the  man  pays  four  oxen,  five  goats,  and  three  sheep. 
When  paid,  the  man  takes  the  woman  to  his  home.  Tlie  father  of  the 
husband  gives  an  ox  to  the  wife  for  a  feast,  and  the  father  of  th©  wife 
gives  an  ox  to  the  husband  for  the  same  purpose.  Also  the  wife's  father  " 
gives  his  daughter  five  cows  with  calves,  as  a  present,  and  a  stock  from 
which  to  rear  up  a  herd  of  cattle.  These  gifts  vary  according  to  the 
wealth  of  the  parents  of  the  parties  contracting  the  marriage.  No 
prayers  or  ceremonies  are  performed  at  the  time  of  marriage  ;  it  is  appo- 
rently  simply  a  matter  of  buying  and  selling,  though  probably  they 
would  not  adopt  such  terras  to  express  the  affair.  When  the  woman  k«g 
conceived,  the  man  goes  and  seeks  for  a  large  pot  of  honey,  which  he 
brings  home,  and  stirs  up,  mixing  it  with  other  things  till  it  is  quit© 
thin ;  then  he  calls  the  chiefs.  When  they  are  come,  the  man  and  his 
wife  sit  down,  the  chiefs  take  a  portion  of  the  honey  and  spit  it  over 
them,  offering  a  prayer  for  their  proaperity  and  that  of  the  child  which 
is  likely  to  be  born.  This  done,  all  have  their  speech  to  make.  Then 
the  honey  which  remains  is  drunk,  making  a  kind  of  feast  very  similar 
to  the  pombo-drinking  of  the  negro  tribes.  If  the  woman  turns  out 
badly,  even  after  she  has  borne  three  or  four  children,  the  husband  sends 
her  back  to  her  father,  keeps  the  children,  and  demands  from  her  fjither 
what  cattle  he  formerly  paid  for  her.     If  the  man  docs  wrong  and  wishes 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  KGURU  COUNTRY'. 


533 


pat  away  his  wife,  he  will  send  her  back  to  her  father  and  not 

'demand  the  cattle  he  had  paid  for  her  if  sho  has  bome  children, 
but  if  ehe  has  been  barren  lie  will  demand  the  cattle  ho  paid  at 
marriage. 

If  a  man  very  frequently  beata  his  wife,  she  can  return  to  her  father 
and  request  hiin  to  return  the  cattle  to  her  huftbaud  which  he  haJ 
received  from  him,  which  done,  she  leaves  her  husband,  and  is  at  liberty 

rto  marry  again,  only  her  former  husband  cannot  take  her. 

P  A  man  is  allowed  to  have  as  many  wives  as  he  can  get.  Generally 
a  poor  man  has  two.  Limba,  a  chief  who  lives  near  Bokwa,  has,  it  is 
said,  200  ;  but  I  think  this  is  not  quite  correct.  Though  polygamy  is 
allowed,  I  could  not  hear  of  any  instance  of  polyandry. 

If  a  man  kills  his  fellow  in  secret,  when  discovered  he  is  killed  by 
spear  and  sword.  If  by  accident  a  man  is  killed,  the  person  who  causes 
his  death  has  to  pay  the  price  of  blood.  If  two  men  call  out  each  other 
in  open  fight,  the  conqueror  has  to  pay  according  to  the  status  of  his 
opponent  whom  he  has  killed.  Children  of  chiefs  play  with  swords,  but 
the  common  people  with  sticks. 

If  a  man  is  caught  with  another  man's  wife,  he  is  killed.  If  the 
husband  of  the  woman  finds  the  adulterer  outside  his  house  ho  is  made 
to  pay.  If  a  woman  is  enticed  to  another  man's  house  and  caught,  both 
man  and  woman  are  killed. 

The  Masai  chiefs  have  not  absolute  rule  over  their  people,  though 
probably  their  jKiwer  is  greater  than  that  of  the  chiefs  of  the  negro 
tribes.  Chiefs  are  able  to  send  their  people  to  war,  to  build  fences  and 
houses,  and  to  herd  cattle,  but  they  cannot  sell  them.  The  chiefs  judge 
all  cases  and  take  a  portion  of  the  fines.    If  the  plaintiff  is  poor  the  chief 

I  takes  only  a  small  part,  but  if  he  is  rich  he  takes  a  larger  share.   A  chief 
Iso  has  power  to  refuse  his  people  tu  go  hero  or  there. 

The  manner  of  building  used  by  the  Masai  is  quite  distinct  from  that 

Pof  any  of  the  other  East  African  tribes.  First,  they  select  a  spot,  not  on 
the  tops  of  the  mountains^  but  on  the  tops  of  the  hills  projecting  from 
the  sides  of  the  mountains.  Tht^y  first  enclose  a  very  large  square  with 
a  single  row  of  houses  (ossuli).  The  village  when  finished  is  called 
engaji.  The  houses  are  thus  built.  First,  strong  withes  or  sticks 
which  will  bend  are  cut ;  one  end  is  inserted  into  the  ground,  the  other 
end  is  then  bent  down  till  it  reaches  the  ground,  and  forms  an  arch 
about  4  feet  6  inches  high.  Some  dozen  or  more  of  these  are  fixed  in  the 
ground  so  as  to  cover  a  space  6  feet  by  9.  These  are  then  interlaced 
together  by  other  smaller  twigs  and  covered  with  grass.  Then  all  are 
covered  with  ox-hidcs,  and  these  in  their  turn  are  covered  with  some 
three  or  four  coatings  of  ox-dung  till  quite  waterjiroof.  A  small  door 
about  I  foot  wide  by  2  feet  6  inches  high  is  generallj'  left  in  the  side  of 
the  house.  Some  of  the  houses  are  a  circle  of  6  feet  in  diameter  and 
4  feet  6  inches  high.     The  largest  will  bo  the  same  height,  but  20  feet 


534 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


long  and  6  feet  wide.     When  this  outside  rinf?  of  honsos  is  bnilt,  a  few 
hero  and  there  arc  saittercd  in  the  square,  and  each  man's  division  of  tb 
flqnare  m  marked  off.     Then  a  strong  fence  of  bushes  and  prickly  thor 
is  set  up  all  round,  leaving  here  and  there  a  gateway  by  which  people  i 
catlle  enter,  and  which  are  closed  at  night. 

The  native  negro  tribes  do  much  work  for  the  Masai,  who  consider  i 
a  disgraco  to  labour:  but  the  Masai  can  work  when  tbere  is  no  one' 
eUe  to  do  it  for  thera. 


Phrases  and  Words  jn  the  Masai  Language.* 

Bring  water Antu  engorre. 

I  want  Hoalt  ..      ..       Rcijrau  engirre. 

Bring  hi'Ti'B-egg* lynu  olmig'onishin  el  olmolanyi. 

Bring  a  fowl , lyau  eiifjuguBhegi,  oj'olmotonyi. 

Bring  milk    ..      ..      lyati  knllo. 

Bring  an  ok  that  I  mny  kill  and  eat  it     ..  Iinm  otigitengi  netiiremu  nenom. 

Bring  a  large  sheep,  with  a  large  tail      ..  lyau  ologenre  kit.>k,  nut*  kilong^or  Idtok. 

Bring  A  largo  goat        lyau  ologiDiie  kitok. 

Bring  a  kid lyau  olojfilo. 

Britig  tirt'       lyau  cngimma. 

Bring  much  firewood lyau  olo^nye  gumw. 

Uring  much  grtias lyaa  orabeu^jw  guinw. 

Cull  the  chief        Eiuhotiaho  olhtljani. 

Call  that  man,  that  he  may  ooruo  hero     ..  Ktnbotisho  oldung'ana  oliJijing'ft  vriH  I 

Cull  the  two  meu  to  come  here Eiubotibho  oldang'aiia  bogi  worre  w4Q  t 

■Cull  tho  womnn Erahotiisho  etagitoki. 

Cull  the  child        I'mbotbho  oleijoni. 

"Where  IB  tuy  man ?      Agodi  oldung'ana  wa  nana? 

Where  is  my  man  ?      Agndi  oldang'ftoa  arnno  ? 

Wheire  ore  all  my  men?      Agocli  olduug"ana  el'ino  bogi  ? 

Where  is  my  OS  ? Agodi  engiteng  olalcV  ? 

Where  is  wati^r,  tliut  I  may  drink  ?  . .  Agndt  engarre  neogo  ? 

Where  ia  g<x»d  wafer  ? Agodi  engarre  siddai  ? 

Where  IB  the  villnge  ? Vgodi  engaji  ? 

Where  is  the  chiefs  house  ?       Agodi  assutt  el  olbeljani  ? 

Where  ia  my  friend'a  hou^e  ?      Vgodi  essiiti  cl  esshore  eriuo  ? 

Where  is  my  house  ?    .. Agotii  essuti  el'ino  1-' 

Where  ifl  my  frit nd? Agodi  e^ghore  el'ino  ? 

Where  are  ail  my  frio ads  ? ..  A grxH  esshore  el'ino  bogi  ? 

Fetch  water  that  I  may  drink   ..      ..      ..  Ntaiigu  engarre  naogi:>  ? 

Where  have  you  come  from  ?      ..      ..      ..  Alto,  aijea  ng'wa  ? 

Where  fl,re  you  going  ?        A ito,  aijea  homo  ? 

When  will  the  ehief  come?        f llbfTjuni  ollutwanu ? 

Are  the  men  coming  ? Eu'n  oldung'ana  ? 

What  do  you  want  ?     Enyoicyea'? 

I  do  not  uixltr^tand,  say  it  again      ..      ..  Meta  nwamn^  crtinu  mentng^ahu, 

I  Bhall  not  boy  it,  it  is  too  dear Mcayaing'o,  eTgiiru. 

I  have  lost  my  road      Emina  cng'oito. 

Show  me  the  road  to  the  chiefB  house     ..  Nentugi  eta  eng'uito,  neibagi  eta  olbeljarfT 

Do  not  m:iko  so  much  nnise       Igira,  tebala  merodi. 


•  In  wriiiog  thciie  Masai  words,  T  have  followed  a?  near  as  possiblo  Biahop  Stcaic^ 
BjKtem  of  Bpeliing. 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NaURU  OOUNTRT. 


535 


Take  this  doth  to  the  chief      Njea  engoUto  eisbo  olbcijani. 

Leare  that  alone Ebari  endogi. 

When  shall  I  come  ? Nann  olutwanu  ? 

Is  the  chief  in  good  health  ?      Siddai  el  olbcijaui  ? 

I  want  you  to  come  with  me      Uiteni  nerubari. 

Go  and  stop  that  noiae        Eweta  irodi  oleijing'a,  ncigira. 

Qo  away,  I  do  not  know  yon      Ennyo,  loiye  meyollo. 

Go  and  call  the  chief Mnbi,  mbotisho  olbeijani. 

The  chief  is  here Olbeijani  ei'ta. 

The  chief  is  away Erimana  embarai  olbeijani. 

How  are  all  yonr  people  ? Fangera  bogi  siddai  ? 

To-day  I  shall  ccnneand  see  yonr  village . .  Nanu  ncilotn  tangaji  waiye  diio. 

I  want  to  sleep     Neiyou  neimra. 

I  want  to  eat Neiyou  nenosa. 

Let  me  see  it Teisho  etadwa. 

I  cannot  come  to-day Nann  meidimi  neilotu  dtio. 

I  will  come  to-morrow Nanu  neilotu  nak^nyOa. 

To<day  I  am  unwell Nann  eseja  dilo. 

To-morrow  I  shall  see  the  chief        ..      ..  Nanu  neit^dOa  el  olbeijani  nakcnyOa. 

Let  the  chief  oome  now       Njo  elotn  el  olbdijani  tata. 

I  will  see  the  chief  now      Kitiknta  etadna  el  olbeijani. 

Sit  down        Totona  taengopo. 

Tell  your  people  to  come  near £rimu  oicijing'a  nago  nelotu. 

What  is  the  name  of  that  hill  ? Nyo  eng^na  nyona  oldolnya  ? 

What  is  the  name  of  that  man  ?        . .      . .  Nyo  eng^rina  nyona  oldung'ana  ? 

What  is  this?       Nyoenna? 

Who  is  this  man? Ng'ai  oldung'ana  enna ? 

What  does  he  say  ?      Ejonyo? 

What  does  he  do?        Endabiranyo? 

I  am  not  doing  anything     Macndabira  endogi. 

I  am  here       Nanu  cti  taini. 

Lj  he  there? Neitoeti? 

The  man  is  hero Oldung'ana  eiti. 

The  fire  is  here Engimmaeiti. 

Let  me  go      Nanu  nallo. 

That  mnn  went Idia  nshomo. 

I  am  well       Nanu  siddai. 

Are  you  well?       Toiye  siddai? 

1     ..     nubo.  2     ..     warre.  3     ..     unguni.  4     ..     otoni. 

5     ..     imidl.  C     ..     ello.  7     ..     nabeshnna.        8     ..     Iclsie. 

U  ilsal.  10     ..     tomon. 


Arm  enguna 

Armpit  ctamata  tangi  liogi 

Back engodiong'i 

Beanl  olroabitta 

Bilu elleseja 

Blood       ..      •.  essamge 

Body  ..  osseseni 

Bull  ..  olmok 

Bono         ..      ..  oUoito 

Bmin        ..      ..  ellogung'o 

Breast       ..      ..  elgina 

Breath      ..     ..  olong'otoko 

Buttock    ..     ..  orkuromo 


Ear engiok 

Eye ong'ong 

Face cng'omonio 

Fat ulata 

Finger      ..      ..  olkimogino 

Fist elabnnga 

Flesh  ..  engirri 

Foot engeja 

Hand  ..  engeina 

Hand  (palm)    ..  endap 

Head ologunya 

Heart        ..      ..  oldau 

Knee olong'ong*© 


636 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


Left  hand . .      . .     engeina  olgtrian 

I^g olgeju 

Lip engutuk 

Liver olmonytla 

Loin olong'olti 

Month  ..     engntuk 

Nails        ..      ..  olld^ 

Navel       ..      ..  essurdrOa 
Neck        ..  olmordta 

Noee ong'om^ 

Nostrils    ..      ..  ongutnk  oloDg*omd 

Bib    ..      ..     ..     olhiUahya 

Right  hand      . .  engina  oUoIewa 

Scar olong'oronyo  el  olmok 

Shoulder  ..      ..  oldap 

Spittle      ..      ..  engamtlra 

Sweat  engarre  olong'oro 

Tears        ..      ..  eshiri 

Thigh  ormoro 

Tongne     ..     ..  olgejembe 

Toe elkimogino 

Tooth        ..      ..  olata 

Ashes  osaorondo 

Bag endutwa 

Bedstead  ..      ..  ongoni 

Chair        ..      ..  ololiga 

Oooking-pot     . .  olmoti 

Door olkisbomi 

Dust ongumgu 

Fire engimma 

Firewood  ..      ..  eugn^ 

Handle     ..      ..  ongujuko 

House       ..      ..  ossuti 

Iron ossiai' 

Knife       .•      ..  ollalem 

Needle      ..  olsoni,  oltitu 

Razor       ..  olmonlnyu 

Ring omorin 

Roof engeberi 

Rope ongibitd 

Sheath      ..      ..  ongeshur 

Spoon       ..      ..  ongira 
Stick  (for  walk-)         , 
ing)       ..      ..jos-ebwa 

Stone        ..      ..  oesoit 

Strap        ..  ongene 

Waterpot..      ..  olmoti 

Well olsirijil  el  engarre 

Baby olung'ara  butu 

Batchelor..      ..  oling'diug'dii 

Beggar     ..      ..  olsumbwi 

Boy olaju 

Brother  ..  olaUlai 

Brother-in-law  olabitani 


Child  (boy) 
Dwarf      .. 
Father      .. 
Foreigner.. 
Friend      .. 
Girl   ..      .. 
Glutton    .. 
God  ..      .. 
Grandchild 
Guide 
Heir  ..      .. 
Herdsman 
Huntsman 
Husband 
Judge 
King.. 
Liar  .. 
Man  .. 
Medicine  i 

Mother 

Slaro 

Soldier 

Son    .. 

Thief 

Trader 

Vagabond 

Wife  .. 

Wizard 

Witchcraft 

Woman 

Virgin 

Old  woman 

Old  man   .. 

Neighbour 

Porter  (worker) 

Rich  man 

Sister 


olung'ara-gnta 

liard 

menye 

olomoni 

shore 

endogt 

olldria 

Engai 

aguiya 

blogonya  engolto 

olugarushi 

oUeiytfoi 

olongorori 

oleimeg 

ollewa 

olbeljani  ' 

elebcOel) 

oldung'ana 

oleiboni 
f  yeiyo,  used  by  femaln 
[  elagitok,  used  by  tuit» 

oesinga 

olmorana  elding'ori 

liiyu 

ebilrum 

enyenisho 

oedngero 

elambiti 

oldung'aua  ata  eldogfta, 

esatan 

endangile 

eshingigi 

gogo 

olmdrua 

olal&hi 

ossingai' 

olobenyi 

onganahi 


Antelope  ..      ..  eshangito 

Ants olkimamani  (siafa) 

Ass oeauigo 

Bee oletoro 

Bird olmotonyi 

Buffalo  ..  olsobwani 

Bug ong*ong*o 

Bull olengit^ng  ollewa 

Bullock    ..      ..  engitcng 

Civet  cat  . .      . .  olshangito 

Cock         . .      . .  olmotonyi  ollolews 

Cow  ..  ..  emongo 

Calf olahe 

Dog olllria 

Elephant  ..     ..  oldome 

^  r  olong'ortlshia  cl  olmo* 

^°2 I    tonyi. 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTRY. 


537 


Fly olusoi' 

Fire-fly     ..      ..  owoite 

Frog olmonyn  ol  engarre 

Gazelle     ..  eshangi 

Giraffe      ..      ..  olmdu'ii 

Wild  goat         ..  oesobeni 

„    rabbit      ..  ossijiDJura 

„    liuro  olkitoja 

Heu oSmotonyi 

Hippo       ..      ..  omonya  el  eDgarre 

Hide         ..      ..  olinjoni 

Honey      ..      ..  olmeji 

Horn oBscgegMTA 

Hump       ..      ..  ongdrio 

Hyena      ..      ..  olnyatdnyi 

Insect       ..  olkiioaniani 

Ivory        ..      ..  osaegegwa  el  oldome 

Leopard    ..  ologworo 

Lion olnyatonyi 

Lizard       ..      ..  olong'oniso 

Milk         . .      . .  guile  or  kulle 

Millipede  uletu 

Monkey    ..  olboroshi 

Mosquito ..  cndorub 

Ostrich     ..  cngobiro 

Oxen        ..      ..  englteng 

Pig olttbitiri 

Pufu ossirSa 

Bat endero 

RbinooeroB      . .  omon  ji 

Scorpion  ..      ..  ole<Jnyi 

Snake       ..      ..  olcirura 

Sheep       ..      ..  olgerre 

Tail ossabiiri 

Tonguo     ..      ..  olkijembe 

Wax olelliga  eleitoni 

Zebra        ..      ..  ossiguria 

Adze        ..      ..  ondoro 

Anklets    ..      ..  osseng'cngi  el  engeju 

Arrow       ..      ..  ombaya 

Axe ondoro 

Beads       ..      ..  ossirimi  omsitani 

„      Black    ..  oleitwe 

yy      Bed       ..  olologo 

„      White  ..  oleibugenja 

„      Blue     ..  omsitani 

Bow omborogwaru 

Bracelet   ..      ..  onnori'n 

Cloth        ..      ..  engobito 

Club ologuma 

Drum       ..  ossingodio 

Gun ondiora 

Gunpowder     ..  omus^i 

Hoe enjerembe 

Knife       ..      ..  ollalem 
No.  IX.— SicPT.  1883.] 


Pipe  .. 

Quiver 

Sandals 

Sheath 

Shield 

Spear 

Sword 


elmoti 

oraubia 

enyamuga 

ongashuru 

elong'o 

omberi 

ollalem 


Bananas   ..      ..  olmagnnda 

Bark  (for  rope)  cngobita 

Beer olmaho 

Cafire  com       . .  ologugu 

Cassava    ..     ..  olmarimgu 

Flour        ..  ondabani 

Grass        ..      ..  omb^neju 

Indian  com     . .  oll^ieg 

Porridge  ..      ..  endaba 

Pumpkins        . .  olmongol 

Pepper     ..      ..  ossogonOi 

Boots        ..      ..  olong'asasa 

Sugar-cane      . .  olmasonja 

Sweet  potatoes  olmamngu 

Thorns     ..      ..  olokikwa 

Tree enjata 

Tobacco   ..  olgumb&tl 

Brook       ..  olgeju  kiti 

Cave ongabuni 

Clay  (red)       ..  ongorogo 

Clouds      ..  oliimbe 

Cold olktnjabi 

Country    ..  ologwa 

Darkness..      ..  ongiwariri 

Dew ol  eugarre  el  engai 

Fog-" oliimbe 

Hail ongai  ol  esoi't 

Heaven    . .      . .  engeberi  elciso 

Hell oliibangi 

Island      ..  abori 

Lake        ..  engabute 

Light       ..  egwara 

Lightning       . .  olcmore 

Moon        ..  olaba 

Mud ongurugu  cl  ongai 

Pit olkirengi 

Place       ..  engweji 

Bain eugai 

River       ..     ..  elugeju 

Rock        ..      ..  osoit  kitok 

Sand        ..      ..  ong'orogo 

Shadow    ..  olsesa 

Star olkeri 

Stone       ..     ..  osoit 

Sun ong'orong 

Thunder  ..     ..  cshirieugai 

2  V 


^^^^     538                     A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND              ^^^^H 

^H                 Valley      ..      -.     olnag'oscTU                      '   _,.  .                       roldong'ttnaateergitAif 
■                 Water       ..      ..     engarre                               ^^'^^^  "^«"         "{    pumo                             _ 

^H                 Wind                     olkinjabi 

RottfU                     enana                                ^M 

^^^^^          Wilderncas             olHng'oai^ni 

Shallow                  kiti                          ^^^H 

Sick eniwe                      ^^^^| 

Strange                   oleimoni                  ^^^^| 

^^F                All bogi 

Sweet                     oaddat'                    ^^^^^ 

^H                  Bad torono 

Strong                    olcIng*oni                ^^^^H 

^H                 Bitt«r                     cdawa 

White       ..      ..     eibor                        ^^^| 

^H                  Black                      elm'tvre 

^^^H 

^H                  Broad                     eblro,  elala 

I  am  able..            neiyollo                 ^^^^| 

^^M                  CdJd  ..                     engejubi 

I  abuse                   netamum               ^^^^| 

^^^                 Deaf , ,                    iDuta  engia 

I  accotn^iany     . .     neirubori                 ^^^^| 

^^^^B           Drunken  ..            eseja 

I  ache                     naitodanya             ^^^^^ 

^^^H           D17 ogol 

I  act.-                   nandabini              ^^^^^| 

^^^^H           False                      elejilejl 

I  add neitubona               ^^^^H 

^^^^H           Female                   elagltuk 

1  agree                    neiyoro                   ^^^^| 

^^^^1           Fierce                     obi 

Mk  . .                   noitttbara               ^^^^^| 

^^^^H           Good..                    siddai 

I  attack                  neiioroto                ^^^^| 

^^^H          Great       ..      ..     kitok 

I  awake                  neinyatoto              ^^^^| 

^^^^H           Hard                      oguguni;' 

I  barter     . .      . .     nenyaugUbo            ^^^H 

^^^^H          Hafitj                     eDg^orang'om 

I  bathe                    neibigi  engarre        '^^^H 

^^^^B          Healthy  ..      ..     .siiidni 

I  beat                      netiri                               ^M 

^^^^H          Heavy                    cTUfiha 

I  bog ncinionu                 ^^^^| 

^^^^H          Little                     kill 

I  bite nuonyi                   ^^^^| 

^^^^B         Long        ..     ..     ele&du 

I  break     ..      ..     neibagusa             ^^^H 

^^^^H         Male ollewit 

I  bring                    neiyau                     ^^^H 

^^^^^1          Many                       gumo 

I  build                    nendabira              ^^^^^ 

^^^^^1           Narrow                    e^BeriLe 

I  call nfiimboti»ho           ^^^^H 

^^^^1          New ele  tntu 

I  cheat                     nnitoriga                ^^^^H 

^^^^^H          Old                         ogoi 

I  die naetwa                    ^^^^| 

^^^^H          Open mata  egwajcna 

I  divide     ..      ..     neing'are               ^^^H 

^^^^H          Quarrelsome    . .     ata  eugasu 

leat  ..                   nenoBtt                  ^^^^H 

^^^^1          Bed    ..      .              clelogo 

1   I  receive                 naisogi                  ^^^^| 

^^^^H                Id  introducing  the  subject  of  Ibe  evening,  the  Cuaikmak  (Gcuerul  Rigby)  said  ^^ 

^^^^H          that  the  paper  to  be  read  was  upon  a  part  of  Africa  that  had  never  before  been  ^M 

^^^^H          visited  or  descril^cd  by  any  Eiiruppan.    Tbe  subject  wa^  of  special  interest  to  the  ^M 

^^^^1          Society  because  the  expedition  under  Mr.  Tbonison  would  pass  through  a  portion  of  ^M 

^^^^M          the  country  inhabited  by  the  same  race,  the  Masai.                                                         ^M 

^^^^M                  After  the  pajter — 

^^^^K                 Dr.  Baxtkb  said,  having  resided  as  a  medical  luissiouary  for  nearly  six  yean 

^^^^H          -in  East  Central    Africa,   and  during  that   time  had   the  pleasure  of  visiting  hi. 

^^^^H           neighbours  the  Masai,  he  had  been  asked  to  t<uppleraent^  as  far  as  he  could,  the  ^m 

^^^^H          paper  by  Mr.  Last.     AfU?r  spending  a  very  happy  Christmas  (1882)  with  Mr.  and  ^M 

^^^^H          "M-T^,  Cole  at  Kisokwe,  he  started  on  the  following  Wednesday  with  about  eighteea  ^M 

^^^^1           porters  to  Sagala,  a  village  about  12  miles  olT  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Kiboriani  ^ 

^^^^H          caravan^  and  dso  a  gi;ide  to  conduct  (be   party  to  Nzogi,  a  distance  of  about 

^^^^H           30  miles.    They  reached   there  the  next  day  and  made  friends  with   the  chief. 

^^^^H           named  Kiharoba.     This  was  accomplinhed  by  clearly  explaining  the  object  of  bis  ^_ 

^^^^H           visit  J  and   givnng  a   present   of  a  few  cloths;   he  then  sent  for  the  headmen  <if^M 

^^^^H           some  of  the  Masai  families  living  near,  to  whom  he  explained  why  he  (Dr.  Baxter)  ^^ 

^^^^H           hod  come  among  them.    Being  naturally  suspicious  of  strangers,  never  having 

i         J 

THE  BORDERS  OP  THE  NGURCJ  COUNTRY.— DISCUSSION. 


539 


I 


«een  a  white  man  before,  they  thought  he  might  be  the  harbinger  of  eril  by 
bringing  w^r,  pestilence,  or  famine  among  them.  It  was  with  some  difficulty  that 
be  could  persuade  thera  that  ho  was  not  an  engai  or  god,  but  only  a  man  like 
themselves  ;  at  the  same  time  ho  tried  to  make  them  understand  that  he  waa 
God'd  servant  or  slave,  "  Essinga  In  Ngai,"  and  be  waa  glad  to  say  that  they  now 
know  him  by  this  name.  He  gave  them  some  presents  of  cloth,  tobacco,  and 
knives,  with  which  they  were  j^roatly  pleased;  they  then  escorted  hira  to  their 
homes.  To  the  heads  of  each  family  and  their  young  warriors  it  was  necessary  to 
give  presents,  but  fortunately  they  weni  not  expensive  ones.  The  elders  receive<l  a 
piece  of  stout  white  sheeting,  two  yards  square,  toi^ether  with  a  knife  and  somo 
tobacco.  No  doubt  they  would  have  preferred  good  coloured  cloths,  which,  however, 
would  have  b<'en  twice  as  costly. .  The  young  men  and  warriors  were  delighted  with 
fnaZaiwfta,  which  consisted  of  a  yard  and  a  half  of  red  cloth  or  bunting,  with  about 
nx  inches  of  white  sheeting  sewn  on  each  side,  and  a  strip  of  about  one  foot  deep  at 
one  end.  The  article  of  diet  which  the  ^losai  prefer  to  all  others  is  curdled  milk  ; 
when  they  can  get  plenty  of  this  they  will  not  touch  any  other.     They  are  most 

^^  careful  to  keop  their  milk  calabashes  clean  by  scouring  them  with  live  charcoal. 

^r  They  only  cat  meat  when  they  cannot  get  enough  milk,  which  is  the  case  in  the 
dry  season.     When  the  young  men  are  on  a  raid  they  take  with  them  a  number  of 

»oxen  as  food  for  the  journey  both  going  and  returning.  They  never  cultivate  the 
f;round  nor  eat  fruit,  thouah  he  found  that  some  of  the  old  women  who  had  lost 
their  teeth,  and  who  probably  in  their  younger  days  had  belonged  to  other  tribes, 
!were  very  gla<l  of  porridge,  and  mothers  even  begged  some  for  their  daughters  who 
were  sick.  The  Masai  are  fond  of  some  barks  which  they  either  chew  or  boil  with 
their  raeat,  and  he  (Dr.  Baxter)  had  little  doubt  that  84)me  of  them  will  be  found  to 
possess  valuable  therapeutic  properties.  Having  made  friends  with  the  Masai  he 
found  them  most  kind  and  hospitable,  and  very  anxious  that  he  should  dwell  .among 

I  them  and  teach  them.     The  elders  seemed  most  interested  in  the  message  that  he 
Ijronght  them,  but  the  5'oung  men  appeared  more  anxious  to  know  where  they 
oould  go  and  capture  plenty  of  oxen,  to  replenish  their  herds  which  had  been  cou- 
ttderably  reduced  by  disease  and  the  butcher's  knife.     As  regards  the  climate  of 
ihia  part  of  the  country,  he  had  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  with  suitable  pre- 
nutions  against  tho  sun,  Europeans  may  enjoy  as  good  health  there  as  at  home, 
nnce  there  is  no  malaria,  for  the  country  is  3<X)0  {^ct  above  the  sea,  and  there  is 
lialf  a  gale  of  wind  always  blowing,  and  whilst  for  tive  months  there  are  occasional 
showers,  the  remainder  of  the  year  is  remarkably  diy.     The  Masai  bt^ar  deadly 
hatred  towards  thoir  former  friemls  and  cousins  the  Wa-bara-^i  (commonly  called 
Wu-humba).  as  evinced  by  their  anxiety  to  exterminate  them.     When  questioned 
^k«8  to  the  cause  of  this  animosity,  tlif^y  said  the  Wa-baragui  when  living  with  them 
^Bbsed  to  steal  their  cattle  until  they  could  st^ind  it  no  longer  and  so  they  drove  them 
^Mway. — The  Masai  ary  the  only  tribe  be  met  with  who  use  oxen  as  beasts  of  burden  ; 
Mrhen  shifting  their  camp  from  one  |msture  io  another  they  make  their  donkeys 
and  oxen   carry  their  belongings,     8alt  and  saltpetre  are   used   by  them  to  mix 
with  their  snuff,  but  he  is  not  aware  that  they  ever  use  it  as  an  article  of  food. 
After  his  return  a  party  of  the  Masai  on  the  war  path  met  two  of  his  men  in  charge 
"^f  a  donkey  ;  they  were  about  to  kill  the  men  and  take  the  donkey,  when  lejxming 
whom   they  belonged,   they  said  "Essinga   la  Ngai!   Sutwa  sudail   Tawalla, 
tawalla  1 "  which  is  **  The  slave  of  God !  a  dear  friend  I  never  mind,  never  mind  !  " 
^^wd  left  the  men  and  donkey  to  return  to  the  mission  station  at  Mpwapwa  in  safety, 
^brho  Church  Missionary  Society  have  a  good  garden  about  six  miles  from  Mpwapwa, 
^Mn  which  every  kind  of  Europi-an  vegetables  will  grow  all  the  year  round,  so  that 
the  country  is  not  so  bad  as  many  suppose. — When  ia  the  Masai  country  he  saw 

2  N  2 


540 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


Hons,  leopard,  rLinoccros,  giralTt?,  zebra,  aud  many  kin  Is  of  ftntelop:'.     'llicrc 
at  that  time  fcw  elephanta  in  tho  pari  he  visited,  as  the  Datives  8«id  the  follo^i 
month  was  the  time  for  their  migration  from  the  west,  and  that  then  thoy  night 
be  seen  in  huge  herds  roving  leisurely  over  the  plain.     On  his  way  to  the  Manx  be 
crossed  over  a  large  surface  of  limestone  rock,  and  a  little  beyond  this  thegnmiul 
was  thickly  strewn  with  a  variety  of  sbells.    Shortly  after  two  lions,  seeing  tb« 
caravan,  bounded  away  like  racehorses  across  the  plain  and  brushwood.     On  the 
rettiru  journey  he  shot  some  zebra  and  an  antelope ;  and  on  reaching  tlie  Kiboriwii 
Hills  was  told  by  the  natives  of  Sagala  that  two  lions  had  lately  been  visiting  thesr 
every  night,  and  had  killed  several  of  their  oxen.      Wishing   to   strengthen  iha 
friendship  already  existing,  he  said  he  would  endeavour  to  rid  them  of  their  foe. 
Having  pitched  his  tent  Tinder  a  tree,  he  ordered  the  tnent  of  the  animals  shot 
the  previous  day  to  be  placed  inside,  in  order  to  attract  the  lions.     Instead  of  the 
porters  sleeping  as  usual  around   the  tent,  fearing   a    nocturnal  visit  from  bis 
majesty,  they  asked  jiennission  to  spend  the  night  in  the  native  house.     Hennn;; 
this>  one  little  boy  said   he  would   not   leave   master  alone.      He   (Dr.  Baxter) 
arranged  bis  bed  on  boxes  jili\cefl  in  the  centre  of  the  tent,  with   tbe   meat  an<> 
open  door  to  his  right,  the  sleeping  lad  nod  cltwed  door  to  his  left.     Placing  hit 
guna  in  readiness  and  conmiendiug  himself  to  tho  keeping  of  his  Heavenly  Father, 
he  was  soon  asleep  between  the  blankets.     About  midnight  be  wju$  awoke  by  a 
scratching  noise  outside  the  cltTsed  door.     Seizing  his  shot-gun  he  passeti  throngb  the 
oi^ea  door  and  saw  at  a  disLince  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  an  old  lion  looking  sidewsys  at 
him.    He  gave  him  at  once  a  royal  salute  from  one  of  the  barrels,  which  wm 
.  loaded  with  HI  buckshot.     His  majesty  quickly  disapi>cared  iu  the  darkness  and 
he  (Dr.  Baxter)  was  again  soon  asleep  between  the  blankets.    The  next  inomiog  the 
lion  was  found  50  yards  distant,  qtiite  dead,  tho  shot  having  entered  just  behind  his 
left  shoulder.     Traces  of  the  farewell  visit  of  his  consort  were  plainly  visible  in  the 
soft  earth.     The  chief  gave  him  a  fine  goat  as  a  present,  and  tbe  people  brought  him 
fiour  and  beans,  because,  as  they  said,  he  had  killed  their  great  enemy. 

Archdeacon  Farlkr  said  he  had  not  travelled  in  the  Masai  country',  but  he  hs*i 
lived  on  its  borders  in  U-sambnni,  the  coimtry  through  which  the  Zanzibar  caravaai 
made  their  annual  progress  to  the  Masai  country,  and  by  means  of  traders  ho  hid 
obtained  a  good  deal  of  infonuation  alxnit  that  region.      As  was  well  known,  Mr. 
Thomson  had  been  commissioned  to  try  sFintl  penetrate  to  the  snowy  mountain* of 
Kilimanjaro  and  Kenia,  and  thence  across  to  tlie  Victoria  Nyanza.      It  was  wry 
desirable  to  have  that  route  opened  up,  because  from  Pangani  to  the  Victoria  Nyanra 
was  only   CO  marches  of  about  five  hours  each,  whereas  the  ordinary  route  of 
the  traders  of  the  present  day  occupied  three  or  four  months.      The  Masai  were  ' 
reputed  to  bo  verj''  fierce  and  wild,  their  hand  against  every  man,  and  every  man's 
hand  against  them.     The  Swahili  traders  gave  them  a  very  bad  repute,  but  thete  , 
traders  often  cheat  the  natives,  and  therefurc  there  was  probably  another  side  to  the  I 
story.     In  his  own  intercourse  with  the  Masai  he  had  found  them  a  very  peaceful  I 
people.     A  few  stages  from  his  own  station  there  was  a  large  Masai  town,  called  j 
Mkomaai,  where  the  people  bred  cattle,  goats,  and  sheep,  and  supplied  them  toJ 
passing  caravans,  seeming  to  live  in  perfect  peace.     On  the  other  han<l,  only  last! 
Christmas  a  raid  was  made  on  the  U-aambora  country,  and  the  Masai  were  driven 
back  with  great  loss.    Some  time  ago  while  passing  through  the  wilderness  he  came  < 
across  their  track,  and  found  that  they  hud  plundered  and  killed  many  of  the  people  J 
who  lived  thore,  for  they  had  a  theory  that  all  the  cattle  in  the  w^orld  belonged  ta 
them,  and  they  robbed  and  plundered  all  the  towns  in  the  coast  district  where  catih 
were  kept.    He  was  told  by  his  paguzt  that  their  custom  was  to  make  a  new  |i«ir  ( 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURU  COUNTRY.— DISCUSSION, 


541 


fcboes  every  dny,  and  he  discovered  old  sandala  thromi  about  on  all  sides.    Native 

^■[Iradcr!?  had  informed  him  that  it  was  quite  possible  for  Mr.  Thomson  to  rcacli 

^■Silinianjaro  and  cross  to  the  Njr'aoza,  but  there  were  two  ways  of  doing  it.     One 

^Kras  to  join  n  Swabili  caravan  and  travel  very  slowly.     Such  a  caravan,  consisling  of 

^•Vbout  2000  persons,  would  take  about  twenty  days  to  do  what  an  ordinary  caravan 

under  an  Englishman  would  do  in  five  days,  because  at  every  large  station  the  traders 

emained  three   or   four  days.      Still  he  would  strongly  advise  that  any  future 

Kplorer  should  join  himself  tt>  a  Swahili  c^iravan  in  order  to  cross  the  Masai  country. 

The  other  way  was  for  a  small,  wtli-armed  party  to  push  rapidly  through  the 

ountry.      The    great    chief   of   that    country  appeared    to  be    a  man  named 

Ibaratiani.     He  was  not  a  Masai,  but  from  thu  country  of  U -gogo.     About  thirty 

fycars  ago  his  father  came  into  the  Masai  country  and  married  one  of  the  daughters  of 

a  Masai  chief,  and  by  great  pretensions  to  witchcraft  so  impressed  the  people  that 

they  elected  him  to  be  their  chief,  and  now  his  son  had  the  most  influence  over  the 

Masai  people,  so  much  so,  that  Dr.  Baxter  had  said,  that  down  in  the  Mamboia 

country  his  name  was  a  power.    Mbamtiani  was  not  a  cruel  man,  but  open  to 

TeosoD.     All  the  traders  g«vo  him  the  character  of  a  very  kind,  sensible,  good  man, 

and  if  he  received  presents  he  was  perfectly  willing  to  givi;  every  possible  assistance. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  every  petty  chief  re^iuired  a  present.     The  i)eople  over 

vhom  he  immediately  rule^l  were  hardly  Masai,  but  Wa-kwavi.     They  lived  in  a 

trtile  country,  and  grew  maize  and  sweet   potatoes,  with  which   they  supplieti 

ssing  caravans,     Kisongo  was  practically  the  capital  of  the  whole  Masai  country. 

if  Mr.  Thomson  could  only  reach  Mbaratiani  and  make  friends  with  him  ho  would 

Dot  find  very  great  difficulty  in  getting  across  the  country,  for  there  the  Masai 

untry  narrowed,  and  eight  or  ten  marches  would  take  him  to  agricultural  tribes 

^'Who  were  perfectly  peaceable  and  willing  to  receive  traders.    -The  routes  already 

Icnovm  were  very  varied  and  numerouB,  but  the  two  he  hail  the  most  knowledge  of 

pftsaed  through  a  wide  upcu  tract  of  country  perfectly  level.    One  of  his  informants 

told  him  that  from  the  entrance  to  the  village  of  Narko  they  could  look  over  an 

immense  extent  of  cuuntry,  as  f:ir  as  the  eye  could  reach,  with  nothing  but  grass, 

and  isolated  hills  1000  feet  high  here  and  there.     The  air  was  cool  and  pleasant, 

I  the  country  perfectly  wholesome  and  healthy,  and  the  Masai  bred  enormous  herds 
of  cattle.  In  various  parts  there  were  wells  dug  by  the  Majiai,  and  even  in  some 
|iftrts  reservoirs,  made  by  the  chiefs,  whei-e  they  collected  the  springs  for  watering 
the  cattle.  In  the  borderu  of  (he  Masai  country  there  was  a  tribe  called  Wandorobo, 
Svho  seemed  to  live  by  the  chiuie,  and  supplieti  enormous  ciuautiticH  of  ivory  to  the 
traders.  At  Nata  in  Ngoroini,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Masai  country,  the  people 
were  so  urgent  to  trade  that  when  the  caravan  left  a  town  the  women  would  rush 
nfter  them  with  grain  and  vegetables,  beseeching  for  purchasers,  and  would  follow 
tbera  for  five  or  six  iionrs'  journey.  The  Swahili  bad  told  him  that  in  that  country 
there  was  no  lack  of  food  or  water.  From  the  Wa-kosobo  tribes  it  w.is  six  or  seven 
marches  across  the  Kavirondo  country  to  the  Victoria  Nyanzo.  If  Mr.  Thomson 
could  succeed  in  passing  through  this  country  it  would  be  a  great  honour  to  England, 
and  he  believed  the  Masai  would  he  found  to  be  very  decent  people. 

Captain  C.  E.  Foot,  b.n.,  said  Mr.  Last  had  told  htm,  when  in  187'.>  he  visited 
that  gentleman  at  Mpwapwa,  that  he  intended  to  encourage  friendly  relations 
^■-wich  the  Masai,  and  there  could  be  no  <loubt  that  he  had  succeeded  to  a  great 
^V4>xtent.  He  was  glad  to  hear  that  Dr.  Baxter  had  been  able  to  make  a  garden  at 
Mpwai>wa,  and  to  gruw  fruits  and  vegetables,  for  when  he  (Captain  Foot)  was  there, 
it  seemed  to  be  a  very  difficult  thing  to  da  The  Nguru  Hills,  about  80  miles 
from  the  coast,  were  just  beyond  the  forest  of  Kidudwe,  and  the  scenery  there 


£42 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  MASAI  PEOPLE  LIVING  BEYOND 


was  very  grand.  The  Frencli  Mission  Station  at  Moado  waa  situated  about 
feet  above  tlie  level  uf  llio  sea,  and  cabbages  and  other  vegetoblee  as  well  as  En^^uia 
fruits  grew  there,  lie  also  believed  that  coffee,  and  posHibly  cocoa,  would  flonmh 
there,  while  iu  the  valleys  below,  which  were  well  watered,  and  where  the  wit 
waa  very  rich,  he  saw  the  largest  sugar-canes  he  had  ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  In  1881  ho  Iwd  the  pleasure  and  honour  of  a  walk  with  Sir  John  Kirk  ftom 
Dar-es-Salaam  up  Mr.  Mackinnon'a  road,  which  is  completed  to  a  distance  of  *bOQi 
73  or  75  miles.  When  they  got  to  the  end  uf  the  road  they  branchcti  off  ind 
went  towards  the  Mnarjatn  Plains,  and  Sir  John  Kirk  said  most  of  the  country 
traversed  was  the  poortst  part  of  Africa  he  had  ever  seen ;  and  he  (Captain  Foot) 
believed  that  in  time  the  Nguru  IlilLs  would  become  like  the  ghauts  of  India,  tht 
resort  of  EuropeauB  and  others  from  the  lowlands.  The  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  had  duoe 
muck  towards  openiog  up  the  route  as  far  as  Mumboia.  In  1880  he  sent  O«iioii 
Mathews  there  with  a  portion  of  his  army.  A  guard  was  formed  at  Mambib 
which  kept  the  marauding  Wa-humba  iu  check.  He  hoped  that  the  Sultan  would 
ultimately  assist  a  railway  company  to  push  on  to  Lake  Tanganyika.  It  was  knuwn 
that  there  was  coal  near  that  lake,  and  minerals  on  the  road,  and  those  were  the 
thingH  that  would  pay.  Considerable  progress  in  developing  His  Uighness's  p«WiS«6- 
sions  had  been  made  of  late,  and  all  interested  in  Africa  should  be  invited  to  aid 
such  an  enterprise. 

Colonel  GtsANT  said  that  in  his  journey  from  Zanzibar  to  the  Victoria  Nyanxa* 
and  thence  to  Egypt,  he  heard  that  the  Masai  were  a  savage,  barbaroujs  race,  but 
he  believed  they  were  not  worse  than  other  natives  who  had  been  driven  into 
savagery  by  the  traders  from  the  coast  who  had  goue  there  slave-hunting.  Arch- 
deacon Farler  thought  that  the  country  could  bo  passed  through  more  easily  by  an 
English  traveller  if  he  joined  a  Swabili  caravan  or  Arah  traders,  but  ho  (Colond 
Grant)  would  not  recommend  any  such  thing,  for  those  traders  were  the  men  who 
destroyed  the  (>eople  arid  the  country.  An  Eugliahman  behaving  like  a  geot.lenuui, 
and  showing  kindness  to  the  natives,  would  pass  tixiough  much  more  aafely  if  he 
did  not  join  the  rascally  traders, 

Mr.  Tt.  N.  CusT  siiid  that  Mr,  L,i.st  was  an  excellent  hiy  missionary  who  had 
been  for  several  years  at  his  station.  Attho  present  moment  lie  was  auiiering  under 
the  heaviest  domestic  allliction.  Two  years  ago  he  was  mariied  at  Zanzibar  bf 
Bishop  ^>teere,  but  at  the  beginning  of  this  year  his  wife  died  from  sunstroke,  Thi« 
was  the  last  occasion  for  some  time  on  which  Sir  John  Kirk  would  be  present  at  ihdr 
meetings.  All  those  connected  with  associations  working  iu  F>ast  Africa  united  ia 
praise  of  the  kindness  show^n  tu  them  by  Sir  John  Kirk,  who  wiis  a  kind  frieD«l«  an 
impartial  public  officer,  and  a  judicious  counsellor,  and  those  interested  in  Ea&t 
Africa  would  he  delighted  to  find  him  back  in  his  old  place  again.  All  friends  uf 
humanity  must  Iw  obliged  to  him  fur  the  noble  resistance  he  had  made  to  the  slar© 
trade.  During  the  last  ten  yeans,  since  ho  was  on  the  Zambesi  with  Livingstone,  a 
great  cliange  had  come  over  the  country.  There  had  been  expeditions  of  every 
kind.  From  Mombasa  to  the  Zambesi  there  wore  signs  of  progress.  On  the  north, 
Mr,  Tliomson  was  fiii;htmg  his  way  to  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Then  there  were  the 
st'Uions  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and  the  Methodists,  who  would  profit  by 
the  route  Mr.  Thomsuu  was  opening  up,  A  little  to  ihc  aouth  there  was  ArchdedCtiU 
Farler'fl  residence  at  ShambjUa  (U-samlwra).  Further  south,  Zanzibar  was  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Universities'  Missiou.  Still  further  south  there  was  another  station,  one 
of  the  members  of  which  had  furced  his  way  to  Lake  Nynssa.  The  London  Mis- 
sionary t^ociety  had  stations  at  U-rarabo,  at  Ujiji,  and  on  the  other  aide  of  Tangan- 
yika.   Then  there  was  the  Belgian  Association,  started  by  that  munificent  patroa  of 


THE  BORDERS  OF  THE  NGURD  COUNTRT.— DISCUSSION. 


xploration  the  King  of  the  Bclgiaoa,  working  both  on  the  east  and  the  west  coast  to 
a  lino  of  stations,  purely  secular,  which  might  welcome  the  traveller  right 
Africa.  Recently  Lieutenant  Wisamann,  who  started  from  Loonda,  had 
walked  across  to  Nyangwe,  .^nd  thence  to  Zanzibar.  There  was  also  what  was 
almost  a  Scotch  colony  on  Lake  Nyassa,  Old  Livingstonia  and  Xew  Liviagstonia. 
There  was  another  station  at  Blantyre  on  the  Shir^.    The  French  Iloman  Catholics 

I  Lad  stations  at  Bagamoyo  and  on  Lake  Tanganyika,  but  they  had  suddenly  moved 
•way  from  Victoria  Nyanza.  Still  they  intended  to  have  a  line  of  stations  from 
<he  east  to  the  west  coast.  It  was  much  to  bo  desired  that  they  would  give  up  their 
practice  of  purchasiug  slave  boys  and  girls,  with  a  view  of  founding  orphanages,  as 
it  created  a  bad  impression  among  the  people  and  roused  hostility  on  the  part  of  the 
relations  of  the  kidnapped  children  against  EuroiMians  in  general, 

I       Sir  JoHK  Kirk  stiid  it  had  always  been  a  pleasure  to  him  to  assist  in  geographical 
Work  and  to  push  on  civilisation  in  East  Africa,  but  the  terms  that  had  been  used 
with  regard  to  what  he  hod  done  were  far  too  high,  especially  in  the  presence  of  bis 
predecessor,  General  Rigby.     If  General  Rigby  had  not  freed  the  Indian  slaves  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  accomplish  what  had  since  been  done.     *rhc  Chairman 
^_-did  the  rotigh  work,  and  he  (Sir  John  Kirk)  had  filled  in  what  was  lacking.    With- 
^Hout  General  Rigby's  work  Zanzibar  would  not  liovo  become  a  oommercial  centre 
^^dominated  over  by  British  interests  and  British  trade. 

The  Chairman,  in  projwsing  a  vote  of  thanks  to  the  author  of  the  paper  and  the- 

^■^ntlemcu  wlio  had  taken  part  in  the  discussion,  said  that  everybody  present  must 

^^liave  l>eea  struck  with  the  extraordinary  way  in  which  East  Africa  was  being  o{iened 

up  by  missionaries  and  others  to  trade  and  civilisation.    When  he  first  went  to  Zanzi- 

^^bar,  twenty-six  years  ago,  nothing  was  known  of  the  interior ;    the  vast  lakes  were 

^■undiscovered  i  tbe  names  of  the  countries  now  talked  of  in  a  fatniliar  manner  wer& 

^■tinknown,  and  the  map  was  a  complete  blank.     During  the  four  years  he  was  at 

^KZanzibar  be  was  the  only  Englishman  there,  but  now  he  believed  there  were  morb 

than  100  English  residents.     Th'j  trade  had  vastly  increased,  the  children  were  being 

educateii,  and  civilisation  and  Christianity  were  spreading  rapidly  over  the  interior 

of  the  continent.     It  was  a  rcmarkahle  tiling  that  at  one  Evening  Meeting  of  the 

Society  they  should  have  present  Colonel  Grant,  Sir  John  Kirk,  Archdeacon  Farler, 

Dr.  Baxter,  and  Captain  Foot,  all  men  who  had  done  their  part  in  forwarding  the 

civilisation  of  the  country.     With  respect  to  the  Masai,  an  instance  occurred  while 

he  was  at  Zanzibar  of  the  respect  they  showed  to  Europeans.     The  Masai  came 

down  and  ravaged  the  Wa-nJka  country,  just  north  of  the  port  of  Mombasa.    There 

was  a  Church  Missionary  Station  there,  and  Mr.  liebmann,  hearing  of  the  approach 

of  a  vast  army,  shut  up  his  house  and  went  to  Zanzibar,  where  he  remained  two 

years.     On  returning  to  his  station  he  found  the  bouse  and  projierty  untouched  ;  not 

^Ka  single  thing  belonging  to  him  bad  been  destroyed.     Ho  had  never  heard  of  any 

^^ instance  in  which  the  Masai   had  beta  hostile  to  white  men,  unless  they  were 

Arabs  whom  they  regarded  iia  stealers  of  their  children.      They  deserved  the  name 

of  a  nation,  for  they  extended  far  inhmd.     They  seeaied  from  their  habits  to  belong 

to  the  great  Gall  a-  race. 


(     514     ) 


Mr.  Thomsons  Report  on  tlie  Progress  of  the  Societi/'s  Expedition  to 

Victoria  Nyanza. 

The  following  is  tlio  detailed  account  of  Mr,  TLoiusoii'b  proceedingii 
whicli  has  reached  us  since  the  publication  of  hia  shorter  letter  to 
Colonel  Miles,  in  the  last  number  of  the  '  Proceedings.'  In  '•  Geographi«il 
Notes  "  of  the  present  number,  we  publish  a  telegram  received  Augnrt 
i;itk  which  aimouncea  the  safe  return  of  Thomson  to  his  camp  and  bis 
intended  second  attempt  to  peuotrato  the  difficult  region  before  him- 

Mombasa.  Jwm*  5th,  1881 

Dear  Sir, — My  lat«  telegram  will  ha-ve  apprised  you  of  tie  main  facts  reUtiog 
to  my  appearance  in  the  Masai  country  and  subsequent  retreat  to  Taveta.  It  cow 
remains  for  me  to  enter  into  somewbat  more  satl^sfactory  iletail  on  these  matters 
that  you  may  clearly  understand  my  present  position.  I  have,  however,  jurt 
learned  from  Colonel  S.  B.  Miles  that  letters  sent  from  Taveta,  contaioiag  aa 
account  of  my  proceedings  so  far,  have  not  reached  Zanzibar,  and  I  am  tberefoce 
under  the  uciessity  of  oomraencing  from  Zanzibar  and  indicating  to  you  how  I 
reacbod  Taveta. 

From  the  time  of  my  arrival  at  Zanzibar  I  was  exceedingly  anxious  to  learn  what 
route  Dr.  Fischer  propo&ed  taking  io  order  that  I  might  avoid  it  as  widely  as  powiUc, 
leaving  iiirn  to  pursue  his  explorations  undisturbed.  His  agent,  the  German  CodsqI, 
repeatedly  informed  both  Colonel  Miles  and  myself  that  his  route  was  viA  Eenia  to 
Baringo,  It  seemed,  llierefort\  that  I  was  left  clear  to  follow  my  original  route 
direct  to  Kavirontlo,  and  I  at  once  set  about  organising  my  caravan  on  that  Luis, 
more  particuhirly  selecting  the  goods  required  by  the  Ma^^ai  and  Wa-kavirondo  of 
I  hose  regions.  If  I  iiad  had  to  proceed  vi&  U-kamba  and  Kenia  the  goods  required 
would  have  been  very  different. 

So  much  it  is  necessary  to  premise,  in  order  to  show  that  I  bad  taken  p/recautiow 
to  keep  my  route  as  far  apart  as  possible  from  that  of  Dr.  Fischer. 

I  left  Zanzibar  on  the  morning  of  the  Gth  March,  on  board  the  steam-tog 
Suez  which  had  been  kindly  lent  fur  our  use  by  Captain  Luxmoorc  of  the  Londtjn. 
Colonel  S.  B,  Miles,  in  spite  of  the  state  of  the  weather  and  the  una'mforlaLk 
character  of  the  tug,  kindly  accompanied  to  give  the  weight  of  his  presence  to 
faciilitate  our  de]iaTture  from  Mombasa.  After  a  very  rough  passage  we  arrived  at 
the  latter  place  io  the  morning  of  the  following  day  and  found  Martin  with  all  the 
men  safe  encamped  at  Frere  Town,  Here  wo  were  hospitably  entertained  and  every 
assistance  given  to  us, — the  Rev.  W.  E.  Taj  lor  deserves  more  especially  to  be 
mentioned. 

On  the  10th  we  moved  up  to  near  Jomvu  and  then  to  Rabai^  where  again  I  was 
treated  with  marked  hospitality.  It  was  not,  however,  till  tlie  17th  of  March  that 
I  was  able  to  make  my  final  start.  On  that  day  we  made  a  short  afternoon  march 
and  camped  at  KwaW. 

The  route  selected  is  one  which  jwisses  Taro  and  Maungu  to  Ndara,  whore  there  is 
now  a  Church  Missionary  Station.  The  description  already  given  of  this  whole  region 
by  tlie  numerous  travellers  who  have  passed  through  it,  cannot  be  improved  in  the 
few  lines  of  a  letter,  and  I  shall  not  attempt  any  at  present.     Suffice  it  to  say  that 


»  Mr.  Thomson  dates  his  letter  "July,"  but  this  is  evidently  a  mistake:  hia  letter  to 
Colonel  Miles  was  dated  June  5th. 


THk:  SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  VICTORIA  NYANZA. 


545 


|re  suflered  some  hariLihipa  in  the  way  of  filtby  water  aod  marches  ia  which  nouc 
nras  to  be  got. 

The  Church  Missionary  Station  was  reached  in  neren  days.    It  is  situated  on  a 

pur  or  ledge  of  Ndara,  a  bit  of  whicli  I  ascended.     We  had  here  a  Utile  affray  which 

Bight  have  ended  in  bloodshed.     Anutlier  iuarcli  hruught  us  to  the  Matate,  and  a 

to  the  westuro  side  of  Bura,  where  we  stftyeii  two  days.    An  attempt  to 

ad  Kilima  Kibomu  faileJ,  owing  to  the  Btupidily  of  ovir  guide. 

I  should  have  meutiuned  that  a  night  spent  with  Mr.  Wray  at  Ndara  resulted  in 

jlhe  stoppage  of  the  watch  which  carrie«l  Greenwich  time  by  the  forgetfulness  of 

artin,  the  sailor,  into  whose  bauds  it  had  been  placed  with  strict  iDJunctions  to 

irind  it  at  the  right  time.   At  Bura  we  had  again  a  "  little  nflair  "  with  the  Wa-teita, 

rhich  even  went  so  far  as  firing  guns.  This  also  ended  amicably,  though  the  fullowiug 

ftight  a  conspiracy  to  cause  a  stamiKJcle  of  porters  was  fortunately  discovered  just 

time.    We  had  intended  to  start  on  a  long  march  at  midnight,  and  we  were  just 

(to.  the  point  of  starting  when  we  discovered  that  there  were  several  hundreds  of 

^  Wa-teit«  in  the  bush,  so  we  quickly  returned  and  waited  till  daybreak. 

On  the  SIst  of  March  we  reached  Taveta,  the  last  march  being  from  2  a.m.  to 

P.M. 

The  journey  was  in  every  re8i)ect  successful,  thougli  three  men  had  to  be  left  on 

rihe  way  and  three  ran  away.     It  brought  out,  however,  very  prominently  the  fact 

that  I  had  pot  as  "  rotten "  (to  iLse  a  Swahili  terra)  a  lot  ol  iiortera  as  ever  left 

Qzibar.     The  town,  in  fact,  was  simply  denuded  of  good  men,  and  we  had  tu  be 

Qtent  with  whoever  came  up.     We  did  not  ask  too  many  tiueslions,  and  the 

onsequence  was  we  recruited  the  major  i>art  of  the  rascality  of  Zanzibar. 

On  my  arrival  at  Taveta  we  found  that  we  had  got  a  work  of  unexjiected  magni- 

ade  before  us — namely  the  putting  together  of  nearly  50,000  strings  of  small  beads, 

Tiind  the  sewing  of  nearly  oOO  of  thu  cloths  worn  by  the  ilosai  on  going  into  a  fight. 

This  proved  to  be  a  more  arduous  task  than  1  had  anticipated,  occupying  us  over 

L twelve  days,  during  which  our  liglit-fingerediwrtera  contrived  to  assist  themselves  to 
bver  three  loads  of  beads  in  spite  of  the  severest  punishments. 

I  found  also  on  my  arrival,  that  Fischer  was  at  Aruslia-wa-Chiui,  and  that  ho 
had  no  intention  of  proceeding  to  Keuia,  but  wa&,  as  I  originally  thought  probable, 
going  straight  to  Baringo,  vi4  Ngurumaui.  On  couauUiug  my  headmen  as  to  what 
we  ought  to  do  under  the  circuinslances,  it  was  made  clear  that  we  must  proceed  as 
we   had  commenced,  oifr   goods   not    being   suitable    for  an  up  joxirney  through 

IU-kamba.  Fortunately  there  was  a  choice  of  routes.  On  all  hands  it  was  stated  that 
Plscher  waa  going  via  Arusba-wa-Jun  and  Kisongo,  we  were  therefore  left  open 
Bo  prooaed  viA  Kiraragwa  and  Nduixiuk,  which  was  a  shorter,  though  a  vastly 
iDore  dADgerous  and  expensive  route.  1  had  no  oppttrtunity  of  o{)ening  commu- 
bications  with  Fischer  as  he  left  for  the  Masai  a  day  or  two  after  my  arrival  at 
laveta. 

At  this  point  in  our  course  it  was  made  clear  that  it  was  of  very  great  importance 
that  1  should  get  a  second  guide  and  inter]>reier.  One  named  Muhinna  1  got  at 
Mombasa,  through  the  good  office  of  Mr.  ^Vakcfield.  We  were  not  long  in  fiuding 
a  very  efficient  interpreter  in  the  shape  ol  no  less  a  person  than  Sadi,  the  guide  of  Von 
der  Decken  and  New.  Although  we  found  him  living  like  a  pauper  he  proved  to 
be  extremely  difficult  to  deal  with,  and  six  Jays  were  consumed  in  slippery  negoti- 
ations. At  last,  much  to  my  relief,  every  preparation  was  complele,  and  though 
many  Wa-Swahili  shook  their  heads  at  our  small  caravan,  accustomed  as  tbey  were  to 
caravans  of  500  to  1000  men,  yet  I  was  full  of  hopeful  expectations  of  getting  through 
all  right. 

On  the  l!>th  of  April  we  moved  out  of  the  forest  of /X'aveta  and  commenced  our 


546 


mi.  THOMSON'S  REPORT  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  THE 


hazardous  marcli.  Our  route  lay  round  the  base  of  KilimaDJaro,  which  dally  vwAthcd 
in  cIoucIh  bad  as  yet  baffled  all  our  attcmptK  to  view  it  in  all  its  niagniBoenoe.  It 
almost  seemed  as  if  we  were  destinal  to  go  round  about  it  and  see  a  little  of  it^  m  if 
non-existent.  Our  first  camp  was  at  the  small  stream  HahalL  Here  we  wtw 
alarmed  by  the  apjiearance  of  a  messenger  from  Miindara  of  Moscbi  with  tiie  astottad- 
ing  intelligence  that  over  a  thousand  Miisai  were  camped  two  days  aheaii  of  tut  and 
mij:ht  be  expected  to  pass  next  day  or  the  day  following,  and  if  they  came  iu  oontact 
with  us,  it  wuuld  mean  either  a  disastrous  fight  or  the  giving  away  of  all  our  goods. 
But  I  was  equally  afraid  of  falling  into  the  clutches  of  Mandara.  However,  as  it 
seemed  the  lesser  of  two  evils  I  adopted  the  hitter  course.  Next  day,  with  moch 
circumsjwction,  we  went  forward,  with  an  advanced  guard  a  long  way  ahead  to  give 
timely  warning  for  retreating  into  the  jungle.  The  men  went  beautifully,  there  not 
being  a  slniile  straggler;  if  they  grumbled,  they  did  so  unheard.  We  crossed  lluj 
Kilema  and  the  Uuni,  and  linally  camiked  between  two  small  volcanic  biU&  The 
following  day  we  moved  up  to  near  Moschi  to  wait  the  passing  of  the  Mani. 
Anxious  to  see  the  celebrated  chief  Mandara  1  resolved  to  occupy  the  enforced 
stoppage  by  visiting  him — with  empty  Ijantls  however.  I  was  received  in  the  most 
princelj''  manner,  and  a  hospitality  was  displayed  such  as  I  had  not  seen  lUiywbefe 
else.  His  appearance  is  striking,  and  for  an  African,  princely.  He  is  very  tall,  and 
has  an  extremely  mtelligeot  face,  which  answers  to  every  mood  of  his  mind,  and 
I  may  say  I  was  captivated.  He  never  hinted  at  the  question  of  presents,  ll 
seemed  to  be  too  great  an  honotir  of  itself  to  be  visited  by  a  white  man,  and  he  wifc 
ready  to  offer  every  assistance.  Taking  advantage  of  this  generous  behaviour  I  started 
on  the  second  day  to  osceud  to  a  height  of  10,000  or  12,000  feet  up  the  mounttia 
for  the  purpose  of  making  a  small  collection  of  plants  from  that  altitude.  I  bad, 
however,  "reckoned  without  mine  host,"  for  after  a  terrific  pull  of  seven  houra  np 
the  Chaga  platform,  1  found  myself  ouly  at  a  height  of  about  9000  feet,  and  as  I  had 
to  return  that  same  day  I  had  U)  make  a  hasty  collection  and  retreat  precipitately 
to  Moschi,  where  we  found  a  splendid  fc'ast  thouglitfuUy  prepared  for  us  by  Maudan. 
We  also  learned  the  good  news  that  the  Masai  camp  had  broken  up,  and  that  wc  mig^l 
now  proceed  unmolested,  and  Maudara'a  face  beamed  upon  us  with  all  the  radiance 
or  blandnesa  of  the  heathen  Chinee.  Two  days  later  Mandara  was  the  subject  of 
our  execratious — as  we  left  our  camp  wnth  the  knowledge  that  we  bad  been  the 
victims  of  a  clever  ruse,  and  minus  (1)  my  own  double-barrel  smooth-bore,  (2)  a 
government  rifle  and  bayonet,  (3)  a  service  revulver,  (4)  an  iron  bos  of  ray  own, 
(5)  a  suit  of  tweed  clothes  complete  (would  that  he  were  condemned  to  wear  the 
boots  ! ),  (f>)  a  great  deal  of  cloth,  and  minor  articles. 

The  next  two  marches  over  broken  country  diversified  by  stretches  of  forest, 
more  open  grassy  areas  and  miles  of  thorny  shrubs.  The  whole  country  was  covered 
with  enormous  erupted  blocks,  in  fact  agglomerates  and  tuffs  are  the  only  rocks  to 
be  seen  in  the  rivt-r  sections,  though  towards  the  south-eastern  aspect  streams  of 
lava  have  found  their  way  from  the  numerous  parasitic  cones  which  dot  the  lower 
margins  of  the  Chaga  platform.  It  seems  very  clear  that  no  flow  of  any  great 
volume  has  ever  succeeded  in  passing  beyond  the  base  of  the  mountain  from  the 
main  crater.     The  comjwsition  of  the  lavas  varies  exceedingly. 

You  are  aware  that  Kilimanjaro  consists  of  two  chief  summits,  Kibo  and  Kima- 
wenzi ;  the  former  and  larger,  which  has  been  usually  described  as  dome-shaped,  is 
in  reality  a  perfect  crater,  a  feature  well  seen  from  different  jx)ints.  Kimaweozi  aa. 
the  other  hand  is  a  peak,  pure  and  simple,  but  I  have  no  doubt  in  my  own  mind 
that  it  was  the  original  volcano ;  thiit,  as  so  often  hapjKjnB,  the  pipe  l)ecame  blocked, 
and  the  imprisoned  forces  found  vent  to  the  west,  forming  a  new  volcano,  which 
Boon  rivalit^  ita  neighbour  iu  size.    The  crater  around  Kimawenisi  has  through  the 


been  gradnally  denuded  away,  consisting  as  it  did  of  loosely  aggregated  material«i, 
nnd  filially  laid  Uiro  tho  plug  of  the  volcano,  which  now  RUnds  forth  as  the  moat 
picturesque  feature  in  the  whole  moiintaiu.  I  have  spoken  of  the  platform  of  Chaga,  hy 
that  I  mean  the  Lroad  irregular  terrace  which  skirts  the  southern  aspectof  the  mountain, 
rises  from  40O)  to  9000  feet  in  elevation,  and  extends  north  and  south  more  than 
10  miles.  It  is  only  the  outer  and  lower  margin  of  this  terrace  which  is  cultivated 
aod  forms  Cbaga  proper.  In  my  opinion  it  is  almost  entirely  formeil  by  the  numerous 
parasitic  or  secondary  cones,  which  would  naturally  break  out  along  the  ba«e  of  the 
primary  cone  on  its  reaching  the  enormous  height  it  has  att-iineth  On  this  subject 
1  cannot,  however,  enlarge  further,  however  congenial  it  may  be.  I  may  say  that 
my  feeling  has  been  that  of  disapi ointment  on  viewing  this  stupendous  volcano. 
The  features  are  too  even  and  monotonous.  There  are  few  rugged  crag«  and  over- 
liaDging  precipices,  serrated  outlines,  or  fantastic  peaks,  while  Ch.iga  with  all  its 
extreme  fertility  does  in  no  way  enhance  its  appeamnce,  taking  away  rather  from 
the  effect  produced  by  a  mountain  of  such  magoitode.  The  view  from  the  south- 
west looking  over  Machame,  is  perhaps  the  most  pictureijtjue  and  varied,  as  there 
only  do  you  see  the  clear  sweep  of  the  mountain  from  top  to  bottom,  while  to  the 
north  the  Shira  flanking  shoulder  attracts  the  attention  by  its  scaured  sides,  its  black 
gloimy  rocks  and  narrow  gorges,  with  Machame  smiling  at  its  base.  Turaiug  t?  the 
east  our  eye  wanders  over  Chaga,  with  its  fertile  shambas,  with  their  colours  varying 
according  to  the  product  cultivated. 

But  I  must  hurry  on.  After  crossing  the  Weri-weri  and  another  very  large 
river,  the  Kikafo,  we  struck  away  towards  the  north,  and  after  two  marches  reached 
Kilionoto,  an  imi)ortant  point  on  the  Shira  shoulder,  where  caravans  collect  a£ 
much  food  as  they  are  able  to  carry  for  the  Masai  country,  where  as  you  are  aware 
nothing  but  beef  is  to  Xm  had." 

The  Bocond  day  after  our  arrival  a  deputation  from  the  Alasai  of  Ngare-na-Erobi 
appeared  with  an  iuviUition  to  proceetl  to  their  place.  Ihis  is  what  is  known  as  the 
door  of  tho  Masai,  and  we  were  pleased  to  hear  that  in  jxussing  the  door  there  would 
be  at  least  nothing  to  fear,  but  our  pleasure  was  considerably  dashed  on  finding  that 
we  had  come  upiu  the  track  of  Fischer,  he  having  taken  the  Kiraragwa  route  in 
preference  to  the  Kifiougo  one,  and  still  more,  he  had  been  fighting  two  days  ahead 
of  Kitttragwa  and  some  people  had  been  killed.  It  was  repressent^d  to  us,  however, 
that  they  had  held  a  grand  meeting  on  hearing  of  the  arrival  of  another  white  man, 
to  consider  the  question  of  allowing  him  to  pass  or  not.  After  a  stormy  debate,  it 
was  finally  settled  (we  were  told)  that  wo  might  pass.  The  deputation  remained 
with  us  that  night  to  act  as  our  guides. 

On  the  3rd  of  May  we  moved  out  of  camp,  and  after  a  tramp  of  two  hours 
ire  emerged  from  the  undulating  and  woody  coimtry  of  Kibouoto,  and  before 
us  lay  the  Masai  country.  The  view  was  not  of  the  character  we  had  imagined 
it  to  be,  namely,  the  somewhat  sterile  aspect  of  the  U-gogo  plains,  where  except 
in  the  far  horizon,  few  hills,  and  those  insignificant,  are  to  be  seen.  On  the 
contrary,  a  picturesque  landscape  met  our  sight  to  the  left,  and  nearly  due 
west  lay  the  wonderful  conical  mountain  Mcru,  with  Uh  secondary  peak  to  give 
it  some  variety.  To  the  right,  and  rising  from  our  very  feet,  towered  the  Shira 
shoulder,  with  Kibo  almost  hidden  behind  it.  From  these  two  great  pillars  to  the 
"door"  or  "gate"  of  the  Masai  swept  round  an  apparently  continuous  and  tmbroken 
range  of  mountains  of  the  most  picturesque  description,  rising  here  and  there  into 
distinct  masses  which  bore  names  long  familiar  to  geographers.  Bearing  334°  from 
our  point  of  view  was  Doengo  Erok  eJ  Kaptei,  an  irregular  shaped  mountain,  form- 
ing a  long  range  and  not  conical.  Ndapduk  or  Ntaptuk,  comparable  in  size  and 
appearance  to  Mem,  bore  318^  at  a  distance  of  about  20  miles.    Then  further  to  the 


548 


MIL  THOMSON'S  REPORT  OX  THE  PROGRESS  OF  THE 


west  could  be  descried  at  a  great  distance  the  mountains  near  the  Guaso  X 
and  towards  Ngurumanl,  and  sweeping  round  Gelei  is  to  be  observed  bt-aring  2! 
loclosed  vvitbirj  these  niountaius  lies  a  great  undulating  reach  of  oountrj',  doited 
over  with  small  volcanic  cones.  In  our  imuiediate  neiglib<iurhood  not  a  tree  is  to 
be  seen  except  along  ihe  course  of  the  Xgaro-ua-Erobi ;  but  fiirlhor  to  the  r>orth-we«t, 
in  the  i>lain  of  the  Ngare-na-Nyuki,  a  dark  green  area  indicated  the  presence  oT  a 
forest.  To  complete  this  hastily-sketched  picture  imagine  antelopes  and  sebrts  in 
hundreds,  numerous  rhinoceros  and  ostriches.  Here  and  there  strange  moving  hhuk 
lines  are  to  be  seen  which  are  not  stationary.  These  are  the  enormous  herds  of  the 
Masai,  feeding  gradually  over  tbe  splendid  grazing  grounds.  At  two  poiota  smoke 
curling  upwards  imlicales  the  pt>sitiou  of  the  kraals  of  Lingobci  and  Mbaratieiu 
These  are  simply  formed  of  a  circular  fence  of  thorns,  inanuniiately  inaide  of  which 
are  the  d()me-shaiH3d  huts  of  the  occupants  forming  an  inner  circle.  They  urn 
fonued  by  bent  sticks  nnd  an  outer  coating  of  dung.  I  observed  none  formed  of 
boughs  and  skjns.  la  height  they  are  from  four  to  live  feet  and  little  more  than 
six  feet  in  diameter.  'J'he  whole  of  the  central  area  of  the  kraal  serve*  as  so 
Inclosure  lur  the  cattle  at  night. 

It  was  near  the  knud  of  Lingobei  and  in  a  corner  M'here  the  Kgare^na-Eiobi 
makes  a  sharp  bend  that  we  camped  and  formed  our  boma.  We  were  sooo  sar' 
rounded  by  hundreds  of  Masai,  all  armed  with  their  enormous  sjicars  and  neatly 
shaped  and  painteii  shields,  and  in  an  hour  I  soon  found  that  my  original  opintoa 
about  the  necessity  of  having  a  large  and  very  well  armed  force  was  only  too  true. 
Before  night  we  disposed  of  ten  loads  of  goods,  principjilly  iron  wire  as  bongo,  and 
the  scene  that  ensued  over  the  division  of  the  spod  was  not  by  any  meauH  encoiu;^- 
ing.  The  hongu  is  not  levied  as  in  all  other  places  by  the  chief  but  by  the  whole 
of  the  pople  ;  they  are  divided  into  so  many  particH,  to  each  party  bo  many  coiU  ol 
wire,  strings  of  beads,  and  cloths  are  broughl.  These  are  not  quietlj'  distributed, 
but  are  thrown  into  their  midst,  and  the  whule  party  make  a  rush  like  wolves  over 
their  prey.  If  two  men  hap|>cn  to  lay  hold  of  the  same  thing,  the  question  d 
ownership  is  only  settled  by  sufwrior  strength,  but  if  equal  usually  tlje  cirr*^  or 
sword  is  resorted  to.  Two  men  thus  got  ugly  tiesh  wounds  in  the  division  of  the 
spoil.  As  another  il lustration  of  their  readiness  to  draw  their  swords  1  may  mentiou 
my  own  case,  in  which  a  Masjii  actually  drew  his  cime'  to  settle  matters  with  nic, 
because  getting  tired  of  his  extreme  curiosity  ta  see  the  whiteness  of  my  leg,  1 
pushed  him  &Vk'ny.  On  his  drawing  his  cime,  I  laughed  and  pretended  I  wanted  to 
see  it,  and  so  the  matter  ended. 

So  far  matters  had  gone  fairly  well,  iho  worst  bongo  was  over,  the  people  at 
Ngare-na-Krobi  were  friendly,  and  we  had  every  reason  to  hope  that  we  should  get 
through  all  right  provided  no  untoward  accident  should  happen,  such  as  bwl 
happened  with  Fischer,  though  the  question  would  obtrude  itself— If  they  could 
murder  some  of  Fischer's  men  with  impunity  what  might  they  nut  do  with  us,  with 
A  third  or  fourth  of  the  number '/ 

Next  day,  however,  matters  began  to  wear  a  different  aspect.  All  the  El  Xiorau 
(the  young  unmarried  fighting  men)  had  disappcare^l,  nnd  only  a  few  of  the  older 
men  were  to  be  seen  about^  We  then  learned  that  we  were  not  after  all  to  bo 
allowed  to  pass  scot-free.  The  whole  of  the  Legoi  tribe  who  inhabit  the  Ngare-na- 
Nyuki  plains  had  risen  to  dispute  our  further  progress.  A  white  man  had  jiaaaed 
and  fought  with  them,  killing  a  favourite  headman  of  the  chief  Mbaratiaui  (not 
Mbaratien),  and,  still  worse,  two  women,  an  atrocity  hitherto  unlicard  of.  They  had 
accepted  blood-money  because  he  was  too  strong  to  be  fought  with,  putting  off  their ' 
ivvenge  till  a  small  caravan  should  appear.  Now  one  hud  come,  and  to  nuike  it  all 
tbe  better  a  European  with  it.    They  were  resolved  to  take  full  advantage  of  th^ 


1 


SOCIETY'S  EXPEDITION  TO  VICTORIA  NVANZA.  549 

opp«)rtunitjr.  The  joung  men  of  the  whole  surrounding  country  who  were  ntAy  for 
a  bit  of  fun  flocked  to  join  Mbamtiani.  Fortunately  the  chiofd  and  old  men  of  the 
Ngare-na-Erobi  were  against  any  such  action,  but  then  their  jxjwer  over  the  younj; 
men  is  but  nominal,  or  nearly  so.  Spies  were  set  to  watch  iis,  but  we  put  on  a  bold 
face,  and  talked  of  starling  such  and  such  a  day,  and  that  if  they  wuuld  not  let  us 
{Mas  we  were  ready  to  fight. 

It  was  clear,  however,  that  any  such  attempt  would  be  pure  madness.  We  could 
have  easily  fought  them  for  one  or  even  twa  days,  but  by  the  end  of  that  time  we 
should  have  found  ourselves  without  gunjKJwder,  owing  to  the  reckless  way  in  which 
the  men  tire  away  their  ammunition.  Then,  again,  though  we  might  Ueep  them  at 
bay,  we  formed  too  small  a  force  to  bo  able  to  help  ourselves  to  food,  so  starvatioti 
would  fidlow.  Tiie  question,  therefore,  was  now  only  how  we  might  retreat  nnse^^n 
to  avoid  a  fight,  as  that  would  only  make  it  more  difficult  to  pass  by  any  o»her  route. 
On  the  evening  of  the  'Uh  of  May  a  blood-brother  of  my  guide  came  secretly  into 
camp  and  brought  in  the  news  that  the  people  from  Ngare-na-Nyuki  wore  meditating 
An  attack  on  the  followiug  day,  and  advised  us  to  be  ready.     W«  informed  him  we 

tere  ready  to  meet  them;  nevertbcless,  as  soon  as  he  was  gone  we  tuld  the  men — 
ho  so  fju*  had  been  kept  in  blissliil  ignorance  of  the  whole  matter — to  get  ready  for 
night  march.  Fortunately  the  night  was  dark,  and  rain  came  on,  which  probably 
umI  the  effect  of  driving  home  any  spie*  there  might  have  been  about.  Making  up 
our  camp  fires  anew  so  as  to  burn  for  some  time,  we  set  off  on  our  somewhat 
hazardous  retreat,  ^lassing  quite  close  to  the  kraal  of  Lingobei.  If  a  dog  had  barked, 
or  one  of  our  donkeys  brayed,  we  should  jiroliabiy  have  been  discovered,  but  no  such 
^^levent  hap^iened,  and  nfier  travelling  nl!  night  we  safely  reached  Kibonoto.  We  had 
^^ust  got  into  camp  when  a  tremendous  raiu  came  on  which  lasted  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  7th,  nud  probably  prevented  pursuit,  os  the  Masai  are  not  fond  of  exposing 
themselves. 

I  have  already  in  my  telegram  given  you  the  latitude  and  longitude  of  our  camp 
at  Ngare-na^Erobi.  1  may  add  that  Geoi^e's  barometer  showed  25 '07  in.  Ther- 
mometer 68**  at  7  A.M.,  while  the  B.P.T.  No.  83300  showed  24 '35;  No.  83305, 
•24  •  20.  Thermometer  75^^. 
On  our  arrival  at  Kibonoto  my  first  idea  wns  to  proceed  at  once  by  Artisha-wa- 
Jnn  and  Kisongo,  but  a  moment's  thought  showed  the  uselessness  of  the  attempt 
after  the  enormous  bongo  we  h.i»l  alreaHy  given  at  Kirsragwa.     There  was  a  con- 

Iiiderable  hongo  at  Arusha,  and  another  large  hongo  at  Kisongo,  that  being  another 
•*door"  to  the  Ma^ai,  besides  a  smaller  one  at  Xgaruka. 
I  To  attempt  to  pass  now  alone  would  mean  that  we  should  have  found  ourselves 
lit  Nguniraani  unable  to  proceed  a  step  further.  There  was  only  one  way  open,  to 
return  to  Taveta,and  there  join  another  caravan,  and  thus  lessen  the  enormous  strain 
on  our  resources,  besides  mutually  adding  to  our  safety. 

Fearing  a  pursuit,  we  wasted  no  more  time  at  Kibonoto  than  was  necessary  in 

order  to  j»rocure  food  for  our  desert  march  to  Taveta.     In  five  days  we  reached  the 

latter  place,  only  to  learn  llmt  no  caravan  would  leave  there  till  the  end  of  Ilamadan 

(it  commences  in  Jidy).     Here  was  an  enormous  delay,  with  nothing  to  do  and  men 

^^  eating  up  our  diminished  stock  of  goods.     To  remain  in  Taveta  to  nurse  my  bitter 

^■disapiwintments  would  have  killed  me.     More   goods,  espcci.illy  iron  wire,  were 

^'urgently  reipiired  if  I  did  not  want  to  find  myself  hopelessly  stranded  half-way  to 

the  lake,  owmg  to  the  enormous  expenses  in  hongo  and  food  in  the  Masai  coimtry. 

I  at  once  made  up  my  mind  to  proceed  to  the  coast,  and  after  a  day's  rest  I  set  off 

with  a  party  of  twelve  men,  not  daring  to  bring  more,  knowing  as  1  did  that  there  was 

ly  a  man  in  the  caravan  who  ilid  not  want  to  run  away.    They  are,  howerer^ 

jrtuitlly  imprisoned  at  Taveta,  as  their  guns  liave  been  taken  from  them. 


550 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


Two  days  LroBglit  me  to  tire  Matati,  aod  lialf  a  day  to  Ndara.  The  oej 
was  from  Ndara  to  Taro,  a  march  probjibly  without  rival  in  the  annals 
African  travelling.  Wo  travelled  rapidly  from  6  a.m.  to  4  a.m.  of  the  following  day. 
with  a  reat  of  only  an  hour  aud  a  half,  without  food  or  a  drop  of  water.  After  a  few 
hours'  rest  we  proceeded  to  Gorah,  and  next  day  to  Raboi,  having  dona  the  whole 
distance  in  five  marohea,  thus  eclipsing  Rebmann  s  teat. 

In  a  very  few  dayg  I  ahall  be  once  more  on  tlie  road,  with  snflBcient  goods  to 
render  me  independent  of  the  Arabs,  if  an  ogjreement  cannot  be  come  to.  And  I 
may  say  that  now,  after  getting  a  fair  insight  into  the  situatioD,  I  am  as  saogiuBe 
a8  ever.  In  no  respect  have  I  lost  hourt.  My  principal  source  of  annoyance  arim 
from  the  loss  of  money  entailed  by  oiu"  prolonged  stoppage,  which  will  compel  nn 
to  shorten  the  time  I  had  hoped  to  have  for  my  exploration. 

I  have  little  more  to  add  to  give  you  an  idea  of  the  situation.  In  everything  I 
liftvo  done  I  acted  aa  I  believed  the  ISociety  would  have  me  to  act,  and  U  was 
impossible  for  me  to  foresee  that  I  was  destined  to  stumble  upon  the  heeU  of  Fischer, 
or  that  he  would  raise  trouble  in  hi«  path  of  which  I  should  have  to  bear  the  bnmt, 
Neither  could  I  help  the  fact  that  I  had  iixy  small  a  caravan  to  force  my  war  ou 
finding  our  way  closed,  and  be  unable  to  take  another  till  I  bad  repleniahed  my 
goods.  The  first  was  due  to  one  of  those  accidents  which  will  happen  in  apite  of  all 
precautions,  the  second  to  the  state  of  the  Society's  funds. 

I  regret  exceedingly  that  in  my  sudden  departure  from  Taveta  I  left  behiod  all 
my  map*,  &c.,  or  my  enforced  leisure  here  might  have  been  utilised  in  sending  yen 
a  copy.  I  may  say,  however,  that  I  lost  no  opix)rtunity  of  taking  obfienratiooc. 
George's  barometer  aud  the  boiling-ijoiiit  thermometer  have  been  almost  in  daily 
use.  I  thiuk  I  forgot  to  luld  that  1  visited  Lakes  Chala  and  Jipe,  and  that  numerous 
observations  on  the  geology  of  the  country  have  ixjcn  made.  M{irtin,  mj*  assistant, 
IB  a  capital  follow,  and  makes  life  in  camp  very  much  more  pleasant  than  it  wooW 
otherwise  be.  He  has  learnt  the  art  of  doing  what  he  ia  told  without  question, 
while  treated  very  much  ou  a  footing  of  equality  otherwise. 

On  my  arrival  at  Mombasa  I  dcspatchedi  the  telegram  which  you  have  doubtlea 
received.  I  wrote  also  to  Colonel  S.  B.  Milc3  for  varioua  articles,  my  letters,  drc. 
With  hia  u&ual  generous  promptitude,  lie  moved  Captain  Luxmoore,  of  the  London, 
to  lend  his  large  steam-tug  to  bring  them  to  me,  as  dhows  at  this  season  cannot  h-- 
got,  except  at  exorbitant  prices,  to  go  north.  I  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  the 
extreme  interest  Colonel  Mile^  has  taken  in  the  expedition,  and  the  readiness  he  hu 
shown  to  assist  lae  in  every  way  in  his  ixjwer. 

Since  my  arrival  here  1  have  lieeo  the  recipient  again  of  the  generous  hospitality 
of  the  missionaries  at  Frere  Town.     I  must  now  once  more  bid  you  adieu. 

Believe  me,  youra  truly, 

To  the  Secretary  R.G.S,  Josepb  Thomsos. 


GEOGEAPHICAL  NOTES. 
Later  Newa  from  Mr.  Thomson. — We  luive  received  from  the  Eastern  ^ 
Telegraph  Company  (through  the  kindness  of  Sir  James  Aiidersou)  the 
following  telegram,  announcing  the  return  of  Mr.  Thomson  with  his 
renewed  supplies  to  his  camp  at  Taveta,  and  his  preparatiouB  for  a  fresh 
start:  "August  13th,  Zanzibar,  Colonel  Miles  to  the  President  R.G.S. 
— Thomson  arrived  at  Taveta  on  the  2nd  of  July,  and  intends  leavinj^- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


651 


on  tlio  8th,  via  the  north  side  of  Kilimanjaro  for  Mosira,  in  company 
with  a  Pangani  caravan,  parting  company  at  the  place  named.  Sanguine 
as  over." — The  place  here  mentioned,  Mosira,  will  be  found  on  Eaven- 
stein's  large  map  of  Eastern  Etiuatorial  Africa,  and  on  Archdeacon 
Farler's  map  (spelt  Musiro  and  Msiro),  far  on  the  way  to  the  shores  of 
Victoria  Nyanza,  in  S.  lat.  about  1^  50'  and  E.  long.  35°  40'. 

Progress  of  Mr.  O'Neill's  ExpeditioE  to  Lake  Shirwa.— By  telegram 
eived  since  our  last  wo  loaru  that  Iklr.  O'Neill  had  reached  Shalawe. 
He  left  the  coast  on  the  11th  of  Jnncj  and  travelling  by  a  new  route 
through  Mhadu  took  up  his  former  road  of  1881  at  Mpagani,  arriving 
at  Shalawe  oti  the  28th  of  June.  lie  intended  to  leave  Shalawe  on  the 
day  after  the  date  of  his  message,  viz.  the  9th  of  July,  making  for 
Namurtili  and  Malema.      His  observations  make   Shalawe  in   S.   lat. 

IU''  55'  and  E.  long,  38°  52';  1407  feet  above  sea-level. 
I  Explorations  in  the  Basin  of  the  Niger. — Mr.  E.  R.  Flegcl  who  made 
ft  successful  journey  up  the  Benzie  some  years  ago  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society,  has  since  been  engaged  in  further 
explorations  of  that  great  tributary  of  the  Niger  on  behalf  of  the 
German  African  Society.  He  has  succeeded  in  reaching  the  sources  of 
the  Benue  which  lie  in  a  range  of  mountains  between  Koncha  and 
^■Nganndere,  in  the  Adamaua  country,  a  region  known  to  us  only  from 
H^he  travels  of  Dr.  Barth.  Since  his  return  ho  has  offered  to  the  German 
H Society  to  undertake  for  them  another  expedition  into  Adamaua,  in 
which  he  hopes  to  penetrate  in  a  southerly  direction  through  the 
perfectly  unknown  region  lying  between  that  country  and  the  Congo, 
or  failing  in  that,  to  turn  westward  and  reach  the  Cameraons.  The 
German  Government  have  granted  a  sum  of  4.0,000  marks  towards  the 
expenses  of  this  new  expedition.  Unfortunately  the  state  of  his  health 
prevent*  Mr.  Flegel  from  starting  immediately. 

The  German  East  African  Expedition.— The  scientific  expedition, 
under  Dr.  BOhm  and  Hcrr  Reichard,  which  has  Ikjcu  working  for  some 
time  past  in  the  direction  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  reached  Karoma,  the 
Belgian  station  on  the  Lake,  on  the  10th  of  Febi-uary  last.  They  were 
making  their  way  from  their  old  station  at  Gonda  to  Lake  MoC-ro,  their 
route  lying  to  the  south  of  that  formerly  followed.  The  last  news  is 
dated  March  3rd,  when  they  were  preparing  to  cross  Tanganyika  to  tho 
mouth  of  the  Lofuku  river,  from  which  point  they  would  take  the  most 
direct  route  to  Lake  Moero.  At  Karema  they  found  the  papers  of  their 
late  comx»anion  Dr.  Kaiser,  who  died  October  l[>th,  1882,  whilst  survey- 
^^jng  Lake  Rikwa.  His  original  map  and  extracts  from  his  journal  have 
^Beached  Berlin,  and  will  be  published  in  the  next  number  of  the 
*Mittheilungfn  dcr  Afrikanischen  Gesellschaft/ 

Dr.  Stecker's  Explorations  in  Abyssinia.  —  Dr.  Stecker,  the  former 
companion  of  Gerhard  Rohlfs,  has  been  continuing  his  excellent  work  in 


562 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


southern  Abyssinia  and    tlio   neij^hLourinf!;   Galla    country.      Ho 
explorcd  the  river  Bidesea,  whitsh  he  identifies  with  the  Juba,  and 
visited  the  Lakes  Bctsho  and  Zwai,  and  the  previously  nnknowTi  Lake 
Miete  eitnated  in  the  country  of  the  Anisi  Gallns,  alx>ut  40  milot*  distaot  i 
from  Lake  Zuai.     A  war  between  Godjam  and  Sboa  compelled  him  la  J 
quit  the  country  before  the  termination  of  his  earveye,  and  he  retnnjcd] 
to  Massana  in  July  last. 

Colonel  Prejevalsky's  New  Expedition. — In  a  letter  to  otir  corrcspou- 
dent,  Mr.  Delmar  Morgan,  Colonel  Prejevalsky  announced  his  intention  of 
starting  on  his  third  great  expedition  to  the  heart  of  Asia  early  in  Angnst. 
He  will  proceed  first  to  Kiachta»  and  hie  object  is  to  explore  the  whole  of  I 
ISorthern  and  part  of  Eastern  Tiliet  from  the  sources  of  the  Hoaug-ho  | 
to  the  Pamir,  diverging  south,  if  possible,  to  the  Upper  Brahmapntra. 
He  intends  again  to  visit  Lob    Nor,  this  time  from  the  Tsaidam  side,  i 
Experience  having  proved  the  impossibility  of  travelling  with  cameU  1 
on  the  high  Tibetan  plateau,  bo  will  tbrm  depots  of  provisions  along;] 
the  northern  foot  of  the  Kuen-lun  and  from  these  points  enter  Tibet  iu  i 
light  marching  order.    The  probable  localities  fixed  upon  for  these  stores  I 
are  Irgizyk  in  Eastern  Tsaidam,  Lake  Gast  in  Western  Tsaidam,  LoUJ 
Nor,  and  the  town  of  Keria.     In  this  way  the  expedition  will  gmdoally 
advance  from  east  to  west  along  the  Kuen-lun.     The  traveller  will  Ur 
accompanied  by  his  former  assistants  Eklon  and  Eobarofsky,  besides  « 
young  officer  named  Kozlof ;  and  he  takes  with  him  his  former  intorprett'r. 
a  native  of  Kuldja,  and  sixteen  Cossacks  and  soldiers  as  escort.     Eklcni 
with  six  Cossacks  will  remain  at  the  depots.     The  scientific  equipment 
and  arms   of  the   party   will  Ijo   most   complete.      The    expedition  \h 
expected  to  leave  Urga  at  the  beginning  of  October,  travelling  vi&  Ah- 
shan,  Koko-nor,  and  Tsaidam,  and  thence  by  the  sources  of  the  Yellow 
Itiver  to  Tibet. 

An  Expeditioii  to  Chitral.^  According  to  letters   from   India,   Mr.j 
McNair  of  the  Indian  Survey  Department  has  succeeded  in  penetratiBgj 
to  Chitral,  which  has  now  been  entered,  for  the  firet  time,  by  a  European 
explorer.     The  story  of  his  adventure,  as  told  in  the  Ciri7  and  MiliUiry  \ 
Gazette  of  Lahore,  is  somewhat  curious.      It  seems  that  trans-frontier 
news-agents,  in  their  reports,  mentioned  that  a  Ferlufjhl,  disguised  as  a 
Mahommedan,  had  crossed  the  north-west  frontier,  and  had  made  his  way  | 
through  the  Swat  valley  to  Dir,  where  he  was  kindly  received   bv 
Itahmatulla  Khan  of  Dir»  a  chief  who  is  well  known  to  frontier  ofl5cer 
for  hie  persistent  rivalry  with  the  younger  Mian  Gul,  the  son  of  th,^2 
famous  Akhoond  of  Swat.     Disguised  Feringhis  figiirc  not  infrequent! 
in  reports  from  beyond  the  frontier,  and,  as  often  as  not,  turn  out  to  ' 
quite  mythical.     This  time  it  was  a  real  Feringhi,  and  no  other  tli^  , 
Jlr.  McNair,  of  the  Indian  Survey  Department.    Mr,  McNair  had  nn(V^ 
taken  this  expedition  entirely  on  his  own  responsibility,  going  *•  •  Q„m 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


653 


leave "  for  tho  purpose.  The  Indiau  Government,  according  to  its 
acciistomeil  policy,  would  have  refused  to  sanction  the  enterprise;  so 

^_Mr.  McNuir's  disjfuiso  was  assumed  to  deceive  the  vigilance  of  our  fron- 
Bor  oflScials,  as  well  as  to  secure  his  safety  in  the  inhospitable  regions 

'which  he  ho|)ed  to  traverse.  lie  was  accompanied  by  a  native  explorer, 
kiio>»ni  "  in  the  profession  "  as  tho  Saiad.  The  Saiad  has  already  done 
good  work  in  the  Survey  Department,  and  is  one  of  Major  Holdich's  best 
men.  Shortly  after  crossing  the  frontier,  Mr.  McN;iir'8  disguise  was 
unfortunately  detected,  lie  succeeded,  ho%vever,  in  reaching  Chitral ; 
and  in  a  letter  written  from  that  place — the  latest  received  in  India  up 

|to  the  end  of  June — he  expressed  his  intention  of  going  on  to  Gilgit. 
native  report  reached  India  that  tho  travc-ller  had  actually  arrived  in 
Gilgit ;  but  a  telegram  (of  Juno  29)  from  Sir  Oliver  St.  John,  the  British 
Eesident  in  Kashmir,  showed  that  tliis  was  a  mistake.  The  journey 
from  Chitral  to  Gilgit  would  bo  somewhat  perilous.  There  has  lately 
been  fighting  in  those  parts.  Yassin,  ou  the  direct  route  between  Chitral 
and  Gilgit,  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Khan  of  Taugir,  a  brother  of  tho  man 
who  raunlered  the  unfortunate  Ilayward.  It  is  possible,  however,  that 
Mr.  McNair  may  not  take  the  direct  route  ;  and  he  may  have  had  reasons 
of  his  own  for  not  disclosing,  in  Iiis  letter  from  Chitral,  his  real  plans. 
As  likely  as  not,  he  will  not  leave  Chitral  without  making  a  determined 
attempt  to  get  into  Kafiristan,  and  he  may  thence  tn,-  to  work  his  way 
round  by  the  head-Wiiters  of  the  Oxus.  This  would  be  the  safer  route, 
and  would  give  the  best  results,  especially  if  Mr.  McNair  is  able  to 
rcassurac  his  disguise.  As  it  is,  Mr.  McNair'a  ad\'enture  should  win  him 
no  little  renown  in  geographical  circles,  in  Europe  as  well  as  in  India, 

I  He  is  the  first  English  traveller  who  has  succeeded  in  penetrating  to 
Chitral,  and  being  an  able  geographer  and  trained  observer,  iiis  report 
will  be  of  considerable  value. 

Hajmibal's  Eoute  across  the  Alps. — In  the  current  number  of  the 
Alpine  Journal,  Mr.  Douglas  Frcshfield  discusses  the  well-worn  subject 
of  the  Pass  of  Hannibal.  He  points  out  that  of  late  historians  and  critics, 
l»oth  in  England  and  Germany,  have  taken  up  a  position  directly  opposed 
to  that  of  most  recent  geographers  and  travellers,  e.  g.  Mr,  J.  Ball,  Mr. 
Bunbury,  and  Professor  Bonney.  While  the  latter  discard  the  little 
St.  Bernard,  it  has  been  \mt  forward  by  the  historians  with  singular 
confidence  as  the  unquestionable  Pass  of  Hannibal.  Against  thisaseimijH 
tion  Mr.  Freshtield  protests,  on  the  ground  that  the  distance  from  tho 
pass  to  the  plain  is  double  that  required  by  the  narmtives  of  Polybius 
and  Livy,  and  also  because  a  majority  of  the  stjitenjents  made  in  support 
of  this  Pasj  prove,  when  closely  examined,  to  be  inaccurate.  Mr.  Fresh- 
i^^eld's  own  argument  is  briefly  as  follows : — If  wo  trust  Polybius  alone, 
ie  Paae  of  Hannibal  must  be  left  an  open  question  as  between  the  Mont 
PCenis,  the  Mont  Geucvre,  and  the  Col  de  FArgentit-ro ;  if  we  take  Livy 
ito  account,  we  are  confined  to  the  road  up  the  Drac  to  Gap,  and  tho 
No.  IX.— 8«PT,  1883.]  2  o 


S54 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


passes  leading  from  tho  Durance  ;  and  if  we  may  believe  the  fragmeatof 
Varro  preserved  by  Serviiis  in  his  Commentaries  on  Virgil,  which  many 
critics  have  strangely  pronounced  unLntelligihle,  we  must  decido  for  thtt  ' 
Col  do  TArgentit-re.  Varro  mentions  five  Passes  beginning  at  the  sea 
and  ending  with  the  Graian  Pass,  and  takoB  Hannibal  over  the  second. 
These  Passes  are  now  represented  by  t)ie  five  carriage  roadw  of  the 
Cornice,  the  Col  de  rArgentiuro,  the  Mont  Genevre,  the  Mont  Cenis,  and 
the  Little  St.  Bernard.  Proof  is  brought  fonvard  that  the  ArgeutifcTo 
route  was  used  by  tho  Gauls  and  Romans,  and  tho  ground  is  said  to  h»  | 
suited  to  tho  adventures  attributed  to  the  Carthaginian  array.  To 
these  a  parallel  may  be  found  in  the  difficulties  encountered  by  French 
armies  on  tho  same  route  in  1515  and  1744.  The  loose  and  (had  we  sot 
the  original  authorities)  in  some  respt-'cts  unintelligible  narratives  of  the 
former  campaign  given  by  Sismondi  and  Michelet  may  furthei*  be  com- 
pared with  those  by  Polybiua  and  Li  vy.  Napoleon  the  FLi'st's  view  of  the 
military  importiince  of  this  Pass  is  shown  by  the  title  he  gare  to  th« 
road  he  ordered  to  Iks  made  over  it,  *  Hon  to  Imjioriale  de  PEfipagno  en 
Italic/  In  an  appendix,  Mr.  Freshfield  gives  his  reasons  for  beliering 
that  tho  Mont  Cenis  waa  well  known  to  the  Romans  from  tho  time  of 
their  conquest  of  itaul,  and  cites  some  curious  allusions  in  mediaeval 
literature  to  the  Passes  of  the  Western  Alps. 

The  Circumpolar  Meteorological  Stations. — Letters  which  have  been 
received  at  Tromso  from  the  Swedish  Meteorological  Station  in  Ice  Flonj, 
Spitzbergen,  state  that  the  winter  was  in  every  respect  satisfactory-. 
There  was  not  a  single  case  of  scurvy  or  other  serious  illness,  and  nothing 
occurred  to  disturb  tho  scientific  work.     Tho  weather  was  also  favour- 
able, and  the  winter  less  severe  than  was  expected,  the  lowest  tempera- 
ture recorded  being  32°  below  zero  (Fahr.)  on  the  2nd  of  January.    The 
month  of  December  was  clear  and  fine,  January  and  February  were  \ 
stormy  and  very  cloudy.     The  three  following  months  were  fine  with  < 
the  exception  of  the  oky  being  generally  overcast.     There  was  no  lack  ol'  I 
fresh  meat  as  the  sport  was  very  fair,  especiaUy  reindeer  shooting,  ftndJ 
the  three  harpooners  who  accompanied  the  party  were  in  this,  us  in 
many   other  respects,    of  gie^t  service.     There  were  shot  during  tho  I 
winter  sixty-ono  ptarmigans,  nine  reindeer,  eighteen  geese,  twenty  foxes, 
and  some  wild-fowl.      The  first   walrus  sloop  was  seen    on    the  26lh 
of  June,  but  tho  ice  precluded  any  attempts  to  communicate  witli  her  j 
until  the  Srd  of  July,  when  a  boat  succeeded  in  reaching  the  Gooec*  ^ 
Islands,  and  on  the  oth  au  attemi>t  was  made  to  reach  tho  mouth  oft 
fiord  in  order  to  exchange  mails.     It  was  considered  that  the  sic 
could  have   reached  Advent  Bay  as  early  as   the   beginning  of  Mi*)- 

Telegrams  from  Trondhjem  announced  that  the  Pol<(  arrivetl  then 

from  Jan  Mayon  with  tho  members  of  the  Austrian  Expedition,  wl 
had  been  absent  for  sixteen  months.  The  Pola  left  Jan  Mayen  August  ft-  _J^ 
the  last  observation   having  been  taken  on  the  4th  of  that  mon 
Lieutenant   "Wohlgemuth,   tho  commander  of  the  expedition,  repoc:-j 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


655 


"  All  well.     Perfeot  observationa ;  rich  collections ;  geodetic  and  pLotO' 

graphic  views  of  the  island."     The  expedition  has  thus  been  completely 

successful  in  the  objects  ibr  which  it  was  sent  out,  and  neither  officers 

nor  men  suffered  from  scurvy  or  other  diseases.    Among  the  experienoee 

of  the  winter  the  most  remarkable  were  the  violent  northerly  storme. 

Snow  began  to  fall  heavilj'  in  the  latter  part  of  August,  but  the  cold 

was  not  eevere  until  Novemi>er.    In  December  the  island  was  surrounded 

by  ice  on  all  sides,  and  in  January  the  cold  reached  25°  •  6  below  zero  of 

Fahrenheit.   The  temperature  was  less  severe  than  was  expected,  but  the 

storms  were  terrific ;  the  waves  washo*!  over  all  the  lower  lying  parts 

of  the  coast,  and  carried  drift-wood  and  loose  blocks  of  ice  far  inland, 

great  ice-masses  being  cast  up  and  stranded  near  to  the  observatories, 

which  were  250  paces  distant  from  the  sea.     The  snow  was  seven  feet 

deep  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  station  and  when  the  thaw  commenced 

in  spring  all  excursions  were  stopped  on  account  of  moving  snow  and 

^w&tor.and  the  cascades  leaping  from  the  top  of  the  cliffs  were  magnificent 

^TMghta.     A  hundred  and  twenty-six  aurora  displays  occurred  during  the 

long  winter  night.     The  Pola  passed,  on  her  way  to  fetch  the  party, 

Gibraltar  on  the  IGth  of  May,  arrived  at    IJeykiavik    on  the  30th  of 

June,  and  proceeded  direct  for  Jan  Mayen.     She  was  not  expected  to- 

»j»tum  before  September,   but  the  ice  turned   out   to  l«   much   more 

"^favourable  than  it  was  last  year.    She  left  Trondhjem  on  the  14th  for 

Hamburg,  where  Comnt  Wilczek,  the  munificent  supporter  of  this  noble 

^■Undertaking,  would  ho  present  to  receive  the  members  of  the  expedition.* 

^-^The  German  Circumpolar  party  in  Cumberland  Sound  will  soon  be 

■lelieved,  the  steamer  Germania  having  left  Hamburg  for  that  purpose 

^ubout  the  20th  of  August. 

Trade  with  Siberia  via   the  ITorth  Cape*  —  The   Russian   steamer 

XiOttMc,!   commanded  by  Captain  E.  Dallman,  left  Hammerfest  for  the 

Yenisei  on  the  17th  July.     It  will  be  remembered  that  she  was  last 

year  prevented  by  the  ice  from  crossing  the  Kara  Sea,  and  warehoused 

her  cargo  at  Hammerfest  ready  for  another  attempt  this  season.  Captain 

Diillman  has  undertaken  to  keep  a  sharp  look  out  fur  the  Varna  and 

IJiJmphnay  and  will  of  course  render  them  any  assistance  in  his  power 

if  required.     According  to  a  notice  in  the  Deutsche  Geogr.  Blatter  the 

present  voyage  of  the  Louise  will,  if  unsuccessful,  be  the  last  attenipt 

^that  she  will  make  to  navigate  the  Kara  Sea.     The  captain  is,  however, 

^Hn  old  and  experienced  Arctic  seaman,  and  as  the  latest  reports  from 

^■fralrus-huuters   and  fishermen  state  that  the  condition  of  the  ice  is 

Bfevourable,  there  seems   to  be   a  good  prospect  of  her  reaching  her 

deBtinatiou.     The  Obi  and  Nordemkiuld  t  put  in  to  Tromsu  on  their  way 

to  Novaya  Zemlya,  and  sailed  again  the  following  day. 

•  Sir  Allen  Young  has  Teceivttl  a  IcitLr  from  Lieutenant  BGera,  the  Commander, 
«Uted  Hamburg,  August  the  18th.    We  leoru  that  the  partj  lauded  there  on  the  19th, 
ad  were  received  with  great  rejoicings, 
t  Beo  mtf,  p.  406.  ;  Ihid. 

2  o  2 


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PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


567 


but  his  chief  literary  labours  were  his  translations  of  St.  Luke*«  Gospel,   the 

Psalms,  and  other  portions  of  the  Bible  into  the  Bk?cbuana  language.     In  1819 

he  married  in  Cape  To^vn  Miss  Mary  Smith,  who   lived  aud  worked   with  him 

until  his  retirement  and  died  a  few  moaths  after  their  arrival  in  England.     One  of 

^  his  daughters  was  married  to  Dr.  Livingstone  and  died  en  the  Zambesi  in  1862. 

jjlis  son,  Mr.  Robert  Moflat,  became  Goveriiment  Surveyor  at  the  Cape  of  Go<.h1  Hojhj, 

fand  in  this  capacity  nmdo  extensive  explorations  in  Namaqua-land  along  the  Orange 

JUver,  and   from  Colesberg  to  Steinkopf  in  the  years  1854-5-6,  his  Report  of 

which    was  published,   illuBtrated  by  a    map    founded    on    his   surveys  in    the 

twenty-eighth  volume  of  our  'Journal.'     Jo  1872  the  de|;ree  of  Doctor  of  Divinity 

^«iis  conferred  upon  him  by  the  University  of  l*Aiinburgh,     In  November  1873  our 

C>juncil  offered  an  Honorary  Life  Fellowship  of  the  Society  to  Dr.  Moffat,  which  ho 

ccepted.  In  1882  he  was  made  a  Vice-President  of  the  Loudon  Missionary  Society,  and 

$n  1873  the  handsome  sum  of  5800/.,  Rubscrilx'd  by  his  atlmirers,  was  presented  to  him 

i  a  testimonial  of  their  appreciation  of  liia  labours.     He  died  on  the  9th  of  August 

St,  at  Leigh  near  Tunbridge  Wells,  and  oa  the  16th  was  buried  in  Norwood 

uetcry,  if  not  with  pomp,  yet  amid  manifestations  of  high  regard  and  veneration. 


PEOCEEDIKGS  OF  FOEEiaN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris.— JuJy  6th,  1883 :  M.  Ast.  D'Abbadik,  of 
;Iio  Institute,  in  tbtj  Ciiair. — A  letter  was  read  from  the  Geographical  Society  of 
Lislwn,  announcing  the  intended  visit  to  Paris  of  Professor  Ant.  Augusto  D'Aguiar, 
Itbo  adviser  of  the  Portuguese  Crown  and  a  peer  of  the  realm,  aod  Vice-President 
'^of  that  Society,  who  is  accompanying  on  a  voyage  of  study  His  Royal  Highness 
the  Duke  of  Bniganza,  htir  presumptive  to  the  throne  of  Portugal.     U'ho  letter 

I  requests  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris  to  give  M.  D'Aguiar  all  the  assistance  and 
eo-oj)eration  which  he  may  require. — Tiie  Geographical  Service  of  the  Army  trans- 
mitted, through  the  Minister  of  War,  niut'  sheets  of  the  map  of  the  environs  of 
Sl'unis,  scale  1 :  20,000,  and  also  maps  of  South  Oranais,  scale  1 :  400,000.     M.  Mau- 
Boir,  the  General  Secretary,  pointed  out  the  imjwrtance  of  the  latter,  in  connection 
with  the  geography  of  Algeria.     Ue  stated  that  up  to  the  present  time  surveys  had 
only  been  made  by  expoilitionary  bands  or  military  colunms,  and  these  therefons 
included  merely  the  narrow  strips  of  country  traversed  by  the  parties,  there  being 
enormous  gaps  between  them.    These  itineraries,  having  no  connection  with  each 
other,  and  no  astronomical  or  geodesical  bases,  were  necessarily  incomplete,  but 
this  is  not  the  case  with  the  mai)s  in  question,  which,  having  been  prepared  from  a 
^—regular  course  of  surveys,  present  South  Oranais  as  far  as  Figuig  in  a  totally  new 
™ispect. — The  Minister  of  Public  Works  forwarded  frc*m  the  Map  and  Plan  Depart- 
ment, which  is  under  the  direction  of  M,  Cheysson,  a  member  of  the  Society,  a  map 
of  the  Dejmrtment  of  Nievre,  just  prepared  by  that  administration. — His  Imperial 
Highness  the  Archduke  Louis  Salvator  of  Austria  presented  to  the  Society  a  mag- 
nificent volume,  entitled  '  Die  Stadt  Palma'  (the  town  ol  Palma),  of  which  he  him- 
self ia  the  author,  aud  announced  that  copies  of  his  other  works  were  in  course  of 
^transmission.     These  gifts  are  the  more  valuable  as  the  works  of  the  Prince  are 
^nublishedin  a  8Uj«rb  "  i-dition  do  luxe,"  and  are  intended  only  for  private  circulation ; 
moreover,  the  author  himself  is  a  great  traveller. — On  the  table,  where  the  newly- 
jjreaented  books  (including  the  one  just  mentioned)  were  exhibited,  there  was  a  very 
Ogenious  apparatus  in  the  form  of  an  astronomical  chronometer.     This  is  the  in- 
ntion  of  M.  E.  Agyar,  a  native  watchmaker  of  Aleppo,  La  the  course  of  the  meeting 


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PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


650 


Pisjted.    The  letter  is  dated  from  that  i«land,  2€th  May,  1883,    Neither  the  area  of 
J«Mil«tii  nor  tlie  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  known,  these  being  details  which  the 
l^'urtuguese  are  not  anxious  to  make  imblic.    Tlie  correspondent  estimates  that  the 
8t  part  of  the  island  meiisures  about  17J  miles  (27  to  28  kilometres),  and  the 
»ge  breadth  he  puts  at  at«ut  G§  niiles  (10  to  II  kilometre*).    Ihe  mean  tcmfiera- 
ture  ranges  from  86°  Fahr.  {3(f  C.)  indoors,  to  108^  or  112°  Fahr.  (42°-45^  C.) 
in  the  sun.    Kain  falls  in  abundance  from  15th  of  July  to  the  end  of  August,  when  it 
adnally  diminishea  in  quantity  till  Octol>er,  which  is  the  end  of  tho  rainy  season, 
be  surface  of  the  island  is  regular,  and  the  water  is  neither  scarce  nor  unwholesome. 
IKuropean  vegetables  thrive  well,  and  among  the  products  of  the  soil  the  following 
lire  mentiontd  i  rice,  maize,  manioc,  yam,  cocim,  sugar-cane,  palm-oil,  ground-nuts 
^(arachis)  oil,   ginger,   coco-nut  trees,  &c.     The  chief  textile  materials  are  the 
!  or  China-grass  jilant,  and  a  species  of  cotton,  which,  however,  is  too  short  to 
btiliscd.     The  corrcsfiondent  is  not  very  enthusiastic  in  si)eftking  of  the  Portuguese 
^ministration  there ;  he  says  there  is  a  governor  having  the  rank  of  Colonel,  and  a 
f  harbour-master.     The  garrison  is  130  strong,  and  the  police  a^ent«  number  20. 
1'here  is  a  secretary's  oHice  witli  various  tmployds,  and  the  custom-house  takes  charge 
of  tho  postal  service.     The  blacks  are  a  fine  race,  but  not  so  powerful  as  might  be 
|<expected,  which  is  doubtless  owing  to  tho  fact  that  their  food  consists  solely  of  rice 
'and  fruits.    They  excavate  their  canoes  from  great  trees,  called  "fromagers"  (the 
iiilk-cotton  trees).     Although  they  have  only  their  knives  for  tools,  they  make  eomo 
very  curious  articles,  and  among  others  wooden  looks,  fetishes,  and  various  small 
things.    The  women  present  some  very  pretty  types.    The  common  dis<jase3  to  the 
white  man  are  inttTmittent  fevers  and  the  ta?nia,  but  it  is  easy  to  rid  oneself  of  the 
tatter.     Some  Europeans  can  only  remain  two  or  three  years  in  the  island  without 
having  to  return  to  their  native  country^  while  on  the  other  hand  there  are  Frcnch- 
.  men   who,  after  a  residence  of  ten  years,   still   enjoy  good  health. — M.  Oukawa, 
■  Secretary  of  the  Japanese  legation  at  Paris,  apologised  by  letter  for  his  inability  to 
Iflittend  tho  meeting,  at  which  he  had  purjjosed  making  some  remarks.    It  is  his 
[intention  to  s|)eak  upon  the  population  of  the  Empire  of  the  Itising  Sun.    In  the 
Dtime,  however,  he  forwarde<l  the  programme  of  tho  Sgciety  of  Pulitiad  Economy 
I  Statistics  at  Tokio,  of  which  he  is  a  member.     The  programme  deals  with  the 
f«nbject  which  he  proposed  to  di.'^cuss,  he  himself  having  studied  it  very  critically 
Kluring  the  long  voyage  from  Yokohama  to  Marseilles  (forty-five  <lay.sat  sea). — General 
I.Vcnukoff  sent  a  communication,  in  Avhich  he  notices  a  very  impurlaat  report  by 
fjColoncl  do  Tillo  on  the  levelling  of  lluKsiiin  railroads,  and  annoxinces  the  publication 
of  a  map  of  the  southern  i>art  of  Iho  coast  province  of  Siberia  or  Russian  Man- 
churia.   Also  tliat  in  the  month  of  June  a  luival  expedition,  sent  by  tho  Grovem- 
inent,  had  startwl  with  the  object  of  making  soundings  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
^■; Caspian  Sea.    This  expe*iition  is  connected  with  tho  scheme  for  establishing  a  direct 
^J  route,  projected  by  General  Tchernaiefl',  between  RuEsia  and  Kbiva,  across  the  Ust- 
^^  Urt.    M.  Venukoff  gives  furiher  the  result  of  M.  de  Tillo's  measurement  of  all  the 

» rivers  of  Russia  in  Eurojie  which  are  navigable  for  siiipa  and  raits.  The  total  length 
is  only  49,000  miles  (T'J.OCO  kiluinetrejj),  which  appears  very  little  for  such  a  vast 
extent  of  territory. — A  despatch,  dated  IGth  ilay,  from  the  French  Minister  in 
ilexico,  informed  the  Society  that  M.  Aug.  Tardy,  a  French  engineer  who  hns 
resided  for  a  long  time  in  I  he  country,  had  just  been  charged  by  the  Mexican 
Government  with  a  mission  to  the  province  of  Michoaoan,  to  study  the  mineral, 
agricultural,  and  forest  wealth  of  this  district,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Mexico. 
Apart  from  bis  official  mission,  M.  Tardy  will  devote  himself  to  the  study  of  tho 
auna,  flora,  and  mineralogy  of  tho  country;  he  will  determine  the  heights  of  the 
untaius,  burvcy  the  courses  of  the  principal  rivers,  and  take  photographs  of  the 


5G0 


PROCEEDINOS  OF  FOREION  SOCIETIES, 


most  important  ucenery,  &c, — From  Tacua  (Peru),  M.  Thouar  wrote  on  ITtli  May, 
describing  the  plan  which  he  intended  to  adopt  in  order  to  discover  lUo  rem&ioi  of 
the  Crevaux  MisHion,  and  to  ascertain  in  a  i>ju-ticular  way  the  cause*  of  llie  mi—tre 
of  the  unfortunate  traveller.  "  I  oui,"  saya  ho,  "  resolved  to  atten)[>t  the  impofliJbU 
that  1  may  fiud  llie  prisoners,  rescue  them,  and  brJos  bock  the  remains  of  thow  who 
liave  luUett  victims  to  the  weapons  of  the  Tobas." — M.  Romanet  du  Cai II aud,  already 
mentioned  above,  then  opene<l  a  discussion  on  the  question  of  the  adoption  of  a  un»« 
yersal  meridiiin.  An  I'-nghshnian,  M,  Parker-Snow,  the  author  of  works  on  t)ie 
Arctic  Regions,  had  proposed  to  the  Society  to  take,  as  the  point  of  def»arture,  a  rock 
in  tha  middle  of  the  ocean,  namely  St.  Paul's  Rock.  M.  R.  du  Caillaud  thought  that 
it  Wi«s  a  question  of  a  moral  rather  than  a  nmteriol  centre.  This  moral  («ntr» 
he  believed  he  bad  discovered  in  Bethlehem,  the  birtliplace  of  Jcsua  Christ,  and  th« 
initial  point  of  the  common  era. — In  conclusion,  Dr.  Delisle  addressed  the  Meeting, 
jiiving  gome  news  of  the  French  MeIeorolo;^ical  Mission  despatched  to  Cape  Horn. 
The  station,  it  appears,  has  been  efltablished  in  Orange  Bay  since  September  18^2. 
Numerous  anthropolo;^ical  observations  have  been  made  and  casts  taken  of  the  lieailsy 
feet,  and  hands  of  the  Fuejiians,  who  are  the  neighbours  of  the  Mission.  Thanks  to 
the  Tekiiiikos  of  Orange  Bay,  the  Mission  has  been  enable<l  to  form  a  very  curiow 
ethnographical  collection,  in  which  the  most  important  article  is  a  canoe  of  Itrgt 
dimensions,  fitted  with  all  necessary  utensils,  harpoons,  &c 

—  July  20th,  1883 :  M.  Pouqdet  ue  la  Grye,  Vice-President  of  the  Centra) 

Commission,  in  the  Chair. — In  the  absence  of  the  General  Secretary,  M.  Maunoir, 
who  was  at  Amsterdam  in  connection  with  the  Exhibttion  there,  M.  Jules  Girard, 
Secretary,  officiated,  and  gave  au  abstract  of  the  cx>rrespondence.  lie  ititimat«?«l  the 
death  of  General  Sir  Edward  Sabine,  the  oldest  corresponding:  memljer  of  the  Socictr, 
his  natjte  havin-^  stood  on  the  Society's  roll  since  1827.  Also  that,  since  its  hut 
meeting,  the  Society  has  lost  M.  Franvois  Beslay,  editor  of  the  Paris  newspaper 
Le  FianraiSf  and  M.  J.  James  Ryan,  the  correspondent  of  the  Netv  York  Ueraid, 
and  member  of  the  foreigm  press  committee  at  Paris.— M.  Caspari,  hydrographiai 
engineer,  transmitted  the  toix^raphical  map  of  Tougking.  which  the  Map  and  Plan 
Depot  of  the  Navy  has  Just  published;  it  was  exhibited  in  the  hall,  together  with 
seme  photo;:raph8  of  the  Lower  Niger,  taken  by  Captain  Mattel,  French  Consul  at 
Brass.  This  map  is  the  most  important  which  we  possess  of  Tongkinjr,  representing, a» 
it  does,  the  exact  state  of  our  knowledge  of  this  region,  Accctrding  to  it,  the  frontier 
between  China  and  Tongking  is  the  same  as  indicated  by  M.  Romanet  du  Cailhitidf 
and  It  also  agrees  with  tlie  observations  made  on  the  sptit  by  Commander  Gervais  ; 
in  addition  to  this,  it  confirms  the  ancient  maps,  esjitcially  that  in  Kiepert's  Atlaa. 
The  southern  frontier,  which  from  a  iwlJtical  point  of  view  is  of  less  importance, 
has  been  traced  in  accordance  with  information  obtained  on  the  spot  by  M.  Caspari 
himself. — M.  A.  Rhont^  presented  the  Society  with  a  work,  which  he  has  published 
in  La  Chroin'que  dcs  Arts  (July  1883),  on  the  archa?ological  excavations  now  tuking 
place  in  Egypt  under  the  ausiiices  of  an  English  Society  formed  for  this  object.  This 
volume  gives  a  rimme  of  the  discoveries  made  in  the  spring  of  the  present  year, 
and  the  programme  of  the  excavations  which  it  is  proposed  to  undertake  next  year. 
The  author  thinks  a  very  judicious  selection  has  been  made. — Mme.  Carla  Serena 
prcsentctl  a  copy  of  her  new  work,  entitled  'liommes  et  chosea  en  Peme'  (Paris, 
Charpentier,  1  volume  12mo,). — A  letter  was  received  from  M.  Martin  \a  Mesl^> 
from  Sydney,  inclosing  the  pMsiJectus  announciog  the  formation  of  the  new  Geogra- 
phical Society,  called  "  The  Ueographical  Society  of  Australasia,"  of  which  he  is  nrr-ia 
of  the  promoters, and  the  General  Secretary  pro  tern.  He  states  that  already,  withim. 
a  month,  more  than  200  members  have  been  enrolled,  and  that  the  Society,  a*^ 
present  hardly  fomie<i,  proposes  to  undertake  the  exploration  of  New  Guinea  frutv 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIM. 


661 


the  extreme  emi  to  west. — General  Veuukoff  theu  gave  an  account  of  the  researches 

uf  M.  Le&sar  as  to  the  existence  of  the  supposed  ancient  bed  of  theOxus  to  the  south 

Ol  KhivK,    M,  Lessnr  has  fuund  no  trace  of  the  ancient  river.    During  his  expedition 

he  has  lost  nearly  all  liis  bcasti?  of  burden,  his  escoit  has  narrowly  csca|>ed  death  from 

thirst  and  hunger  in  the  desert,  and  he  has  been  compelled,  in  order  to  save  himself 

end  foUoweru,  to  have  recourj*e  to  the  lus^lstance  of  the   Khivans,     Under  these 

circumstances,  after  three  years'  painful  experiences,  he  is  desirous  of  returning  to 

Kurope.    M.  Venukoll"  stated  that  the  Society  of  Naturalists  at  Moscow  liad  sent 

>  young  savant  into  the  districts  waterwl  by  the  sources  of  the  Oka,  with   in- 

^  structions  to  study  the  geological  formation  uf  this  region.    Similar  investigations 

lire    being   matlo  in  the  countries   tniversed    by  the   Volga,   so  that,    with   the 

ddiliun  of  works  of  the  same   nature  already  executed  in  other  parts  of  Russia, 

here  will  ation  be  all  the  materials  necessary  for  the  prepiralion  of  the  geological 

I  fxiap  of  Europe  (at  least  as  far  as  the  easern  part  of  the  Continent  is  concerned), 

rhich  is  to  be  exocutnl  in  accordance  with  a.  resolution  of  the  last  International 

jeological  Congress.     M.  Venukoff  then   indicated   the   geographical   position   of 

the  capiital  of  the  Merv  oas-is^  which,  according  to  M.  Gladycheli",  who  has  just 

completed  the  calculation  of  the  astronomical  olwervations  made  by  him  in  South 

Turcomania,  is  situated  in  X,  latitude  37"^  35'  19",  and  69°  27'  20"  longitude  east 

^of  Paris.    The  position  of  Merv,  as  shown  on  our  ma|>s,  agrees  very  fairly  with 

|his  determination. — A  communication  was  read  from  Teneritfe,  sent  by  M.  Alph. 

lUne-Edwards,  of  the  Institute,  Professor  of  the  Natural  History  Museum,  who  is 

[  engagwl  on  a  scientitie  mission  on  board  the  lalisman.     He  is  instructed  to  make 

I  soundings  and  dredging^  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  in  his  letter  states  that  his 

[  operations  are  going  on  as  well  as  could  1^  desired.  The  coa.sts  of  Morocco  and  of  the 

'  Canary  islands  have  been  ex^^lored,  and  the  ship  will  now  proceed  to  the  Cay*  Verd 

ilslauds,  and  ronliniie  dredging  all  along  the  African  coast,  still  so  little  studied  from 

[lis  i>c>int  of  view. — Tidings,  dated  from  Kounii  (Gr«it  Celedugu)  in  Senegal,  were 

Treceived  from  Dr.  Bayol,  to  the  effect  that  his  mission  had  arrived  in  this  country  of 

Koumi,  at  a  distance  of  66  miles  (lOG  kilometres)  to  the  north  of  Hamaku.     He  has, 

j^it  appears,  concluded  two  treaties,  placing  Nossombugu  and  Koumi  under  the  protec- 

orate  of  France.     He  hoped  to  arrive  in  a  week  or  so  at  Damfa  (or  Damsa),  which 

"is  only  two  days'   march    from    the  capitnl  of  Wurdiari.     These  two  countries 

of    Damfa  and   Munliari,    the   approach   to   which    is   through   highly  iatereet- 

jng  districts  and   hithertu  unexplored,  carry   on,  according    to   the  traveller,  OD 

^^important   trade  with  the  caravans  coming   from   Ualaba  and   Timbuctu.     Dr. 

^^wayol  expresses  his  hopes  of   being  able   to  obtain   at   Gumbu,  if   he  ahould 

^Ktach  there,  some  valuable  information  on  the  country  of  el  Hat>iJ,  which  is  as  yet 

^Bnnexplored. — M.  Antoine  D'AbbadiR,  uf  the  Institute,  President  of  the  Central  Com- 

f^miBsioa,  sent  a  letter  apologising  for  his  inability  lu  be  prewent  at  the  meeting,  over 

which  he  should  have  presided,  this  being  the  last  raet'ting  of  the  Session  1882-3 

(the  Session  1883-4  will  not  commence  till  next  November).     The  communication 

was  also  to  rectify  certain   errors  contained  in  the  paper  Le  Monileur   Uuivernrl 

(oth  July),  in  which  was  reproduced  or  merely  analysed  a  letter  of  M.  Paul  Soleillet, 

who  is  now  travcllmg  tn  the  East  of  Africa.     The  latter,  according  to  M,  D'Abbadie, 

is     by    no    means    the   first   European    who  has    explored    Jinima   and    Katfa, 

^mM.  D'Abbadie  resided  there  before  him,  and   Mgr.   Massaja   proceeded   in    1855 

^Hnto    the    same    districts,    accompanied    by    P.  Ccsare,   an    Italian   monk,   taking 

^Ahe   same   du-ection   as   M,   D'Abbadie. — M.   A.  Thuiiar  wrote,  on  the  31st   of 

^■May   from  La  Paz,  that  he   was  going  to  start  for  Campari  early  in  June,  to 

'^commence  a  search   for   the  remains  of  the   Crevaux  Mission.     He  states  that 

the  Bolivian  Government  liad  ordered  an  expeditionary  corps  to  march  on  Teyo, 


562 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


the  capital  of  the  Tobas ;  the  Jejwrfure  of  this  column  being  Cxx&i  (err  the  iDOIitll 
of  June,  and  Caiza  chosen  for  the  starting-[Tioint.  Part  of  this  oorp»  w  to 
occupy  Teyo,  while  the  other  division  will  follow  the  right  bank  of  the  I'ilcofmftfo 
as  far  as  Ascenaion. — The  commander  of  the  French  ship  Lt;  liovyjneJtet  writing  from 
Punt^i-Aienas  on  25th  May,  nnnouuced  that,  despite  the  unfavourable  crmdilioni*  of 
climate,  the  results  already  arrived  at  by  the  Mission  at  CaiKj  Horn,  gave  hopes  that 
the  expedition  will  really  be  vi-ry  profitable  as  regards  the  kuowledj^e  which  we 
possess  of  that  region.  Geography  will  without  doubt  benefit  by  the  hydrogmphical 
explorations'  effected  in  the  neighhnirhood  of  this  Cape,  which  will  rause  the  uode. 
fined  regions  still  shown  on  our  maps,  to  vanish  therefrom. — M.  CHi.  II4ti*ni 
presented  to  the  Meeting  his  *'  Cosauographe  Mobile,"  which  is  an  iroprovemenl  upoo 
the  co.sniosraj>hical  penduUira,  invented  by  M.Monrel,  andcxhibilctlat  the  Untveraal 
Exhibition  in  1878.  This  apjiaratus,  whicli  realises  the  ecientihc  union  of  tlie  sphere 
with  the  pendulum,  places  before  our  eyes  a  world  in  miniature,  and  enable*  tu  to 
comprehend  at  once  the  position  of  the  earth  in  space,  the  inclination  of  itj*  axis,  the 
limitji  of  day  and  nighty  the  dawn  and  twilight,  the  true  ami  the  mean  time,  the 
dificrenco  between  them  and  the  equation  of  connection,  the  correct  lime  of  day  at 
every  point  on  the  globe,  the  distribution  of  the  seasons,  the  polar  days  aiid  night*, 
&c. — jthenomena  which  are  all  known  in  theory  rather  ihnn  in  practice.  Tlie 
Mouret  pendulum,  in  representing  the  earth  with  all  its  simultAneoua  movcmentj 
and  in  its  relations  with  the  heavens?,  isindecii  a  wonder.  "It  is,"  as  Jl.  Flamroarieo 
said  in  La  Nature,  "  to  the  common  j»eudulutu  what  the  railway  is  to  the  vehicles 
of  our  ancestor:'.'" — The  orders  of  the  day  having  been  exhau.sted,  M.  Bouquet  de  h 
Grye  dismissed  the  Meeting,  .md  declared  the  Geographical  Session  of  1882-3  clowd. 
|It  had  always  been  the  custom  of  the  Society  to  hold  a  meeting  during  the  fiwt 
[Ibrtnight  in  August,  and  another  in  the  second  fortnight  of  October.  ITic^c  two 
{meetings  will  in  future  be  abolished,  and  the  recess  of  the  Society  will  last  three  dear 
months.  As  slated  above,  the  Society  will  not  resume  its  meetings  till  the  month 
of  November. 

GeograpMcal  Society  of  Copenhagen.— At  the  fifth  meeting  of  this  Society, 
Councillor  Tkai',  Presideur,  in  the  Chair,  a  paper  on  Swedish  North  Polar  Expeditioita 

'  was  read  by  Professor  Ed,  Erslev,  the  Secretary. 

The  author  commenced  by  drawing  a  parallel  Iwtween  the  present  age  as  an 
**era  of  discovery  '  with  that  lii.storical  time,  distin-^uished  by  this  appellation,  ia 
which  Columbui*,  Yasco  de  t^iatna,  and  Magellan  lived.  lie  then  went  on  to  say 
that,  althouiih  the  S»»ciety  had  had  the  fortune  to  receive  the  explorers  of  the  Norih- 
Bast  Passage  on  their  return,  it  was  to  their  general  regret  that  they  bad  not 
■also  on  that  occasion  been  able  to  have  the  munificent  equipper  of  that  expedition 
Qong  them,  viz.  Mr.  Oscar  Dickson,  the  Swedish  Maecenas.  Early  in  this  century, 
he  said,  two  brothers  emigrated  to  Gothenburg  from  Scotland,  and  founded  the 
well-known  firm  of  Dickson  and  Company,  They  were  the  brothers  Robert  and 
James.  Besides  developing  a  great  commercial  concern,  they  became  known  for 
their  libendity.      They  h.ad  tnansformed  the  maxim  AW««hj  obiigc  into  liieJi«*tt 

I  nhUije,  and  acted  on  the  principle  that  he  to  whom  great  wealth  befel  had  also  bis 
duties.     Formerly  the  Church  claimed  a  tithe  of  a  man*s  possessions,  but  now  it  was 
claimed  by  the  class  of  men  of  talent  which  had  the  desire,  but  not  the  means,  U^ 
devote  themselves  to  science  or  art.     Everywhere  in  their  adopted  country  thc-r^ 
were  signs  which   sjxjko  of  the  kindness  and  munificence  of  the  two   brothens. 
Thousands  of  people  in  want  had  been  assisted,  labourers'  dwellings  erecto<l,  uv<^ 
universities  built,  &c.     The  sons  of  James  Dickson  had  followed  in  the  footstejw  of 
their  father.     The  eldest,  James  J.  Dickson,  had  given  krgo  sums  to  paUic  ixistU7t. 


■Ufa 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 


568 


I 


I 


tions,  and  bad  been  sumamed  "  The  Philanthropist."    The  younger,  Oscar  Dickson, 
had  done  so  much  for  the  benefit  of  science  in  his  country,  that  he  had  been 
called  the  Swedish  Maecenas.     The  speaker  then  said  that  by  the  great  wars  of 
Sweden  in  former  day«,  the  people  had  learnt  that  war  was  not  the  road  to  happiness. 
For  more  than  half  a  century  the  tiation  hatl  enjoyed  the  blessings  of  [jeace,  and, 
in  spite  of  the  unfavour:tble  climate   and  the   poor  soli,  the  people  had  steadily 
advanced  towards  that  goal  of  prosperity  which  is  the  object  of  every  nation  ;  and  at 
the  same  moment  it  might  be  noticed  that  in  the  native  land  of  Linnaeus  and 
Berzoliua  mudi  v/sua  done  for  the  process  of  arts  and  science.     LaureL*  gained  in 
this  Held  were  more  glorious  than  those  obtained  in  war.   On  the  other  hand,  nobody 
could  help  admiring  the  excellent  show  which  Sweden  always  makes  at  the  varJoua 
intemationali  exhibitions.    Although  having  twice  as  many  inhabitants  as  Denmark, 
and  being  much  poorer,  Sweden  was  never  absent  from  these  exhibitions,  and  she 
did  \visely  in  demonstrating  that  she  had  culture  of  her  own.     When  at^the  recent 
geographical  congresses  in  Paris  and  Venice,  he  had  sfwken  with  foreign  savantg^ 
there  were  two  names  which  were  always  referred  to,  viz.  those  of  Nordeaskiiild  and 
Oscar   Dickson.     The  one   devises   schemes  of  exploration  and  carries  them   out, 
the  other  overcomes  all  difnculties  attending  them,  and  furnishes  the  funds,  if 
necessary.     The  two  stand  side  by  side,  and  it  was  this  that  one  expedition  after 
another  had  been  despatched  from  Sw^eden.    They  had  also  both  found  an  ardent 
supporter  in  King  Oocar.     From   its  own  geographical  position  it  was  but  natunal 
that  the  Swedish  nation  should  be  bent  on  discoveries  in  the  Arctic  regions,  and  it 
was  Lov^n  who  had  first  called  his  countrymen's  attention  to  Spitzbergen,  whither  he 
had  made  a  voyage  in  1837.   Twenty  years  after,  Otto  Torell  proceeded  to  the  island, 
a  voyage  which  he  reix-ated  in  18G1,  then  accompanied  by  Nordenskiiild.  Since  that 
time  Sweden  bad  despatclietl  one  expedition  after  another  to  the  Arctic  regions,  and 
Oscar  Dickson  had  given  valuable  assistance  to  most  of  them.     In  order  to  under- 
stand this,  he  would  give  a  resnvit  of  the  Arctic  expeditions  which  had  been  sup- 
ported by  him  : — 1.  The  expedition,  in  1868,  to  Spitzbergen,  was  principally  defrayed 
by  him.    2.  The  expedition,  in  1870,  to  Greenland,  was  wholly  ilefrayed  by  him. 
3.  The  expedition,  in  1872-3,  which,  wintering  at  Spitxbergen,  attempte<i  to  reach 
the  North  Pole,  but  without  success,  was  entirely  defrayed  by  him,  he  having  also 
paid  the  deficiency  which  arose  in  its  cost  on  returning.    4.  The  ex|K3ditton,  in 
1875,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei,  was  entirely  defrayed  by  him.     Ho  had  on  that 
occasion  said  ttt  Nonlcnskiold,  "The  expedition  of  1872  has  partly  failed,  but  we 
mustTnot  finish  with  a  failure."     5,  The  exj>editions,  in  187G,  by  sea  and  by  land 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei  were  chiefly  defrayetl  by  him.    6.  The  Vfga  expedition, 
in  1878-80,  wa.s  for  a  third  part  shared  by  him  ;  and,  finally  (7),  the  expedition 
despatched  this  present  year  to  Greenland  was  entirely  defrayed  by  him.    In  addition 
to  these  magnificent  expeditions,  he  hail  contributed  to  a  number  of  minor  scientific 
undertakings.   Having  next  referred  to  the  great  interest  which  Oscar  Dickson  always 
had  taken  in  Arctic  voyages,  he,  the  sjKjakcr,  stated  that  whenever  be  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  speaking  to  Mr.  Dick&m  the  tljeme  of  discus-^ion  was  unintentionally 
generally  the  same,  viz.  Arctic  exploration  and  Nordenakiijld.     Huw  great  Dickson's 
interest  wha  in  the  former  might  be  realised  from  the  fact  that,  when  the  Danish 
North   Polar  expedition   in   the  DiJmpJma   had  nearly  to  be  abandoned  for  the 
want  of  20,000  kroner  (1200?.),  he  at  once  telegraphed,  offering  this  siun  towards 
the^undortaking.     Dickson  had  the  greatest  confidence  in  the  success  of  whatever 
Nordenskiold  decided  on  undertjiking.     When  the  trio— King  Oscar,  Nordenskiold, 
and  Dickson — bad  at  the  Royal  Palace  in  Stockholm  discussed  the  circuoanavigation 
of  Asia  prior  to  the  start,  Dickson  advanced  as  one  of  the  arguments  in  fnvour  of  the 
nndcrtaking,  that  Nordenskiold  had  conceived  and  executed  plans  which  others  had 


ii64  NEW  BOOKS. 

ileemed  impossible.  Neither  could  ho  forego  to  mention  the  true  modesty  which 
distioguiblied  Dickson's  liberality.  As  an  example,  be  would  relate  that,  some  years 
ago,  an  iotrepid  l>wedish  bolanist,  Sveti  Ilerggrcn,  was  studying  in  New  Zvohu^, 
from  wlieiice  lie  wmte  a  letter  tu  the  A/'tonhlad,  sUting  that  ho  Touud  hims^'lf  com- 
ptllcd  to  return  homo  for  want  of  funds.  The  following  diiy  a  Urge  sum  was  pbcoi 
uiionymonsly  in  the  bauds  of  the  Aftwiblad  for  the  use  of  Ilerr  Ber^zgren,  and  it  was 
not  till  many  years  after  that  ilie  donor's  name  (Oscar  Dickson)  leaked  uut.  In 
conclusion,  Professor  Erslev  referred  to  the  great  esteem  in  which  both  NordeQskii)ld 
and  Dickson  were  held  abroad,  and  they — the  Danes — might  be  proud  of  the  (act 
that  it  was  their  IScaodiuavian  brethren  who  had  during  recent  years  achieved  so 
much  towards  exploring  the  regions  around  the  North  Pole. — Lieutenant  LaoriUeo 
then  read  a  pay>er  on  the  Danish  Arctic  explorer,  Jens  JIunk,  who,  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  attempted  unsnccessfully  to  discover  the  North- Weat  Pasaagp,  after  which 
the  Meeting  adjourned. 


NEW  BOOKS. 

(By  E.  C.  Eye,  Librarian  R.G.S.) 

EUROPE. 

[Murray,  JohnJ — A  Handbook  for  Travellers  in  Denmark,  with  Schleswig  atwl 
Eolstein,  and  Iceland.  Fifth  edition.  London  (John  Murray) :  1883,  post  8vo,, 
pp.  viii.  and  156,  maps.     Price  Cj?. 

The  fourth  edition  waa  published  so  long  ago  as  1875,  and  the  present  tma 
demands  notice  iw  including  a  brief  guide  to  Iceland,  which  is  new  to  the  scrio. 
This  includes  a  hiblio.:raphy  of  works  recommenried  as  being  serviceable  to  tho 
Intending  traveller  in  the  coonlry,  from  which  Mr.  C.  W.  Lock's  'ilome  of  the 
Eddas'  and  Mr.  J.  Coles's  *  Summer  Travelling  in  Iceland '  are  excluded,  both 
recently  published  aud  containing  much  ninterial  especially  written  for  the 
purpose  named.  The  map  (sigtied  by  Colonel  Brint^)  is  apf>arently  the  same  a^ 
that  in  our  '  Proceedings  *  for  March  1882,  illustrating  Mr.  Cuthbert  Peek'* 
paper,  with  the  addition  of  red  lines,  dots  for  stations,  and  a  few  names.  In 
the  short  reference  to  available  maps,  no  mention  is  made  of  the  map  to 
Mr.  Coles's  work  above  mentioned,  which  is  practically  Gumilaugsoa  isod 
Olseu's  olhcial  1844  map  corrected  tu  date. 


ASIA. 

Loftaif  [Commander]  A.  J. — Xotes  of  a  Journey  across  the  Isthmus  of  Kni, 
made  with  the  French  Government  Survey  Expedition*  January-April,  1883, 
with  explanatory  Map  and  Sections,  and  Appendix  containing  Reprint  of  Report 
tit  the  Indian  Goveraraent  by  Captains  Fraser  aud  Forlong,  in  1863.  Singapore 
(Printed  at  the  SiTaU&  TimtB  Press,  by  A.  Frois) :  1883,  8vo,,  pp.  30. 

As  it  is  some  twenty  years  since  the  idea  of  cutting  through  the  Isthmns 
of  Kra  (Kn'i,  Krii,  or  Kraw,  as  it  is  variously  written)  was  discufised  in 
anything  like  a  pnictical  way,  it  may  save  some  trouble  of  reference  if  the 
IKMaitiou  of  the  scene  of  pro[»osed  operations  is  roughly  described.  The 
isthmus  is  situated  in  the  upper  third  of  the  Malay  Peninsula,  at  about  10°  N. 
lat.,  in  Siamese  terriiury ;  it  is  practically  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Pakchaa 
river,  which  forms  the  extreme  south-easterii  limit  lx:twcen  British  Burm* 
and  Siam,  and  its  narrowest  point  appears  to  he  at  the  Kra  Pass,  250  feet  high, 
near  the  eiistern  head  feeders  of  the  Pakchan,  forming  the  water-parting 
l>etweeu  that  river  and  the  Tong  Eaa  which  flows  eastward  into  the  Gulf  of 
Siam. 


NEW  BOOKS. 


5G5 


So  long  ago  as  1863,  a  busty  survey  of  this  isthmus',  with  the  object  of 
engineering  operation*  similar  Jo  ihoso  referred  to  in  the  above  title,  was  made 
on  behalf  of  the  Iinliau  Government  by  Caotain  Alexander  Fraser  and  Captain 
J.  G.  Forlong  of  the  Bengnl  Engineers  (whose  Rei  ort  is  reprinted  by  Com- 
umnder  Loftus)  ;  and  those  officers  came  to  tlte  conclusion  that  a  canal  was 
impracticable,  though  they  recommended  the  construction  of  a  railway.  The 
serious  miscalculation  by  them  of  the  height  of  the  Kra  Tass  at  only  75  feet 
materially  detracts  from  the  value  of  this  recommendntiuo  ;  and  it  should  be 
observed  that  the  height  given  by  Cbramauder  Loftus  agrees  with  the  observa- 
tions of  Lieut.  Baggcs,  who  in  18(j8  surveyed  the  Tenasserim  and  Siamese 
boundaries  for  the  Indian  Government. 

It  is  needless  here  to  remark  U|X)n  the  development  of  the  cosmopolitan 
.Singa|>ore  nnd  the  British  Straits  Settlements  since  the  date  at  which  the 
impracticability  of  avoiding  the  Stmit*  of  Midacca  was  considered  to  be 
established, — a  development  which  conld  never  have  reached  its  present  high 
state,  if  a  more  direct  communication  between  India  and  China  bad  been 
effected. 

The  French  Government  has,  however,  recently  taken  this  more  direct  route 
agBtn  into  considenvtion,  and  early  in  January  last  sent  a  surveying  expedition 
fur  the  purjx»se  of  ascertaining  the  pnielicubility  of  constructing  a  maritime 
canal  to  connect  the  Bay  of  Bengal  with  the  <  ndf  of  Siam.  Commauder  Loftus, 
a  Fellow  of  this  Society,  to  which  he  dedicates  the  highly  important  notes 
above  referred  to,  acoomixiuied  this  expedition,  which  landed  at  Paknan\ 
Chumpon  on  the  east  side  of  the  Isthrmw  on  16th  January,  and  left  Muon 
Rebnong  on  the  west  about  the  4th  April ;  he  was  with  it  the  whole  time,  as 
Commissioner  for  the  King  of  Siam,  and,  wbile  staling  his  ignorance  of  the 
conclusions  at  which  the  French  engineers  may  have  arrived,  at  once  expresses 
his  own  conviction  that  such  a  cftn»l  as  that  pruposfd  is  quite  impracticable. 

The  expeilition  was  commaiide^l  by  Lieut.  Tanl  BellioD,  of  the  French  navy, 
and  consisted  cf  five  scientific  gentlemen,  who  were  arcompanJeti  at  the  start 
by  Dr.  Uarmand.  A  preliminary  examioation  was  made  of  the  jungle  country 
of  the  valleys  of  tlie  Sawe  and  Langsuen  livers,  which  fall  into  the  Gulf  of 
Siam  south  of  ChnmiK)n  Bay  ;  this  was  effected  by  elephant  partie.s,  and 
Commander  Loftus  de!*cribes  the  tnost  convenient  order  of  marching  on  such  a 
survey.  The  route  taken  was  in  a  southerly  direction  to  Langsuen,  practically 
jMiralU'l  with  the  Siamese  (iulf  coast,  and  crossing  the  Sawe  and  Taa  ko  rivers  a 
few  miles  from  their  months  ;  but  any  accurate  examination  of  the  former  had  to 
be  abandoned,  though  it  is  staled  to  be  a  deej^er  and  better  stream  than  the 
Chumi«n.  After  llie  laborious  ascent  of  a  hill,  some  400  feet  high,  a  ladder 
and  platform  were  rij:ged  up  in  a  tall  tree  at  its  summit,  and  from  this  elevated 
jxjsition  a  perfect  view  of  the  country  to  the  west  was  obtained  ;  but  mountains 
and  hilbs  of  every  shaffO  ami  size,  covered  with  the  thickest  jimgle,  were  sfi 
maiisod  together  in  one  unbroken  but  varied  oulline  that  nothing  to  indicate  the 
shape  or  inland  direction  of  the  Sjivve  valley  could  be  delected. 

Before  reaching  Langsuen,  more  open  cx>UBtry  with  patches  of  cultivation, 
gardens,  villages,  nnd  peculiar  hills  rising  abniptly  IVom  the  plain  were  met 
with;  and  the  new  tnwu  wjw  fuund  to  have  roads  linetl  with  native  and  Chinese 
ahops  and  brick-built  houses,  &c.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  high  and  alx)Ut 
400  feet  apart ;  its  bed  is  sandy,  and  the  stream,  though  shallow,  runs  with 
greater  velocity  to  the  sea  (some  nine  miles  distant)  than  the  other  rivers 
crossed.  After  a  stay  of  four  days,  during  which  attempts  to  get  some  idea  of 
the  direction  of  the  river  were  foiletl  for  the  same  reas^.m  as  that  above  men- 
tioned, the  party  set  out  in  light  canoes,  which  passed  successfully  over  the 
numerous  falls.  These  were  at  first  slight,  but  as  the  tortuous,  tbickly-wootkd, 
.and  picturesque  river  was  asceml&l,  they  bectmie  stronger,  more  frequent,  and 
difficult  to  pass,  several  small  hslantls  formed  of  rock  slungle  and  sand  being 
met  with  in  the  broad  jtarts  of  the  stream.  This  state  of  things,  accompanied  by 
inorenumerouBhillsand  villages,  continued  to  the  villageof  Ban  Song,  the  highest 
point  attainable  by  boats,  5fi  gii>grAphicftl  miUs  from  Langsuen,  situate  on  the 
eastern  verge  of  the  central  Lack-bone  ridge  of  the  peninsula,  li>5  feet  above 
Langsuen  by  aneroid.     The  asctnt  of  a  sttep  hill  here  was  not  rewarded  with 


BQcbesB ;  as  before,  hills  and  mountaiDs  in  grand  confusion,  clothed  with 
primeval  jungle  trees  of  stately  magnificence,  were  Boen  in  every  direction,  hut 
no  indlcAtiou  of  a  valley  could  bo  ti-aced. 

On  4th  February,  wiih  the  help  of  elephants,  the  expedition  sacceeded  in 
reaching  the  Kow  Dens;  pass,  we8t  of  Ban  Song ;  thi^,  the  lowest  gap  in  the 
back-bone  range  here,  is  the  boundary  mark  between  the  Sinmcse  province*  of 
Rehnonj:  and  Laugsuen,  and  was  found  to  be  630  feet  above  sea-level,  by  careful 
aneroid  observations.  Open  country  on  the  western  side  wag  soon  reached 
after  an  abrupt  and  serpentine  descent  by  the  source  of  the  llat  Koot  river,  and 
at  Ban  Hat  Koot  a  launch  Bent  by  the  Governor  of  liehnoog  awaited  the 
explorers,  who  steamed  in  it  up  the  west  coast  to  Rehnong.  This  is  an  im- 
portant tin  district,  situate  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  mountaina  two  miles  (hxiL. 
the  coast,  inhabited  by  Chinese,  with  shops  and  roads  on  the  inerease, 
regularly  visited  for  trade  purposes  by  the  British  India  steamer*.  Its  f 
Kaw  Sim  Kong,  is  an  excellent  administrator.  Various  scientific  ob 
were  made  here,  with  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  reach  the  Kow  Kve  paM  L,_, 
the  Chah  Hoon  river,  north  of  Rehnong.  The  valley  of  the  ChaL  Hooo  wts 
followed  to  an  elevation  of  110  ftet,  but  the  gigantic  hills  towering  overhead 
blocked  further  pro;jrc8s.  The  pass  itself  was  described  as  very  steep  and 
dangerous,  with  a  narrow  track  along  its  southern  slope  only  wide  enough  for 
an  elephant's  foot. 

The  chief  work  of  tlie  expedition  then  commenced,  the  Pakchau  lieing 
ascended  to  Muong  Km,  from  which  point  the  engineers  were  to  commence  th« 
survey  and  loveUing  of  the  Kra  route  eastward  to  Churaj^von.  Muong  Km  itself  t^ 
a  good-sized  village  in  an  open  place  among  the  hills  at  the  head  of  the  Pakchan ; 
it  appears  of  little  imjiortance,  as  the  cultivated  parts  are  limited  and  tin  is 
scarce ;  it  baa  however  considerably  improved  of  late  years.  A  defiot  for , 
provisions,  instruments,  «tc.,  was  formed  at  Toa  San  near  the  Pas«,  and 
February  18th  a  start  was  made,  and  the  highest  point  of  elevation  rvacheO 
careful  readings  of  the  aneroid  being  frequently  made.  The  route  rises  and 
falls  abruptly  after  leaving  Kra,  and  continues  to  wind  and  rise  through  dense 
jungles  of  bimboos  with  largo  trees  to  the  top  of  the  Pass.  Thence  deiscending 
to  Taa  San  it  is  steep,  serpentine,  and  \mdulating,  with  fewer  bamboos,  Klong 
Hin  Song,  one  of  the  Pakchan  sources,  was  lost  near  the  west  side  of  the  Faai, 
and  ono  of  the  sources  of  the  Tong  Kaa  was  tirst  met  with  close  to  its  east  side. 
Tigers,  slinging  Hies,  and  leeches,  are  brietly  alluded  to  by  Commander  Loftu* 
as  among  the  chief  pt-rsunal  inconveniences  to  the  surveyor  in  these  parts.  On 
the  20th,  Chumpon  on  the  east  cotist  was  reached  by  an  excessively  nneven  and 
tortuous  route  throuiih  a  densely-packed  jungle  growth,  practically  by  the  cotirse 
of  the  Toug  Kaa,  which  ha<i  to  be  crossed  and  recrossed  several  times. 

Having  returned  to  Bangkok  on  the  24th,  a  fresh  start  was  mode  to 
Chumpon  in  March,  and  the  i-oute  retraced  to  tiie  dejot  at  1'aa  San,  for  the 
purpose  of  completing  the  surveys  and  levels;  ono  of  the  reauJts  was  very 
gratifying,  as  the  independent  observations  of  the  two  French  engineers  as  to 
the  height  of  the  Kra  Pass  not  only  agreed  inter  st-,  but  exactly  corresponded 
with  the  elevation  {2b0  feet)  fixed  by  Commander  Loftus  with  liia  aneroid. 

After  the  detsils  of  the  journey,  Commander  Loftus  explains  more  fBUti- 
cularly  the  various  points  examined  which  appear  to  be  of  special  importance, 
Ixjth  us  to  the  tides,  channels,  roads,  rivers,  distances,  geological  formations, 

Ithysical  characteristics  (with  which  Dr.  Oldham's  description  tallies  exactly), 
leights,  latitudes,  and  longitndos.  The  chief  of  the  technical  objections 
which  he  urges  against  the  scheme  (epitotniscd  in  a  letter  to  the  Frcjich 
Commandant  which  he  reprints),  is  the  difficulty  of  excavating  and  depositing 
the  enonnoiis  bulk  of  83,854, ii22  cubic  yards  of  mountain  land  (contjjining  75 
or  80  [W  cent,  of  hard  sione),  which  represents  the  hilly  district  of  the  Kra 
route;  this  is  indejendent  of  the  difficult  and  expensive  works  neceSMiry  in 
connection  with  the  Pakchan  and  Chumpon  rivers. 

This  interesting  work  is  illustrated  by  a  very  detailed  map  of  the  whole 
area,  showing  routt^  of  the  expedition,  heights,  depths,  «.Vc.,  with  sections  of  the 
Kra  and  I^uig^uen  routes,  and  working  sections  of  the  former  as  regards  the 
necessary  measurements  for  mail  steamers. 


^anx,  [Le  Bon]  Ludovic  de, — La   Palestine.     Taria  (Ernest  Leroux): 
large  8vo,,  pp.  ii.  and  5li7,  map,  illitatralions,     (Duhiu :  price  20*.) 

This  work  has  no  pretensions  to  novelty,  but  consists  mostly  of  the  ftuthor*j» 
notes  written  on  the  R\yot  tiurin^  his  recent  travels  in  the  Westeru  Holy  Land, 
huppleinented  by  extracts  I'roni  well-known  publications  by  Guerin,  Fouard, 
and  De  Vogi\e.  and  from  the  old  chronicles  of  the  Crusades.  The  illiibtraLions 
are  by  Cliardin  and  Mauss,  those  by  the  Litter  having  value  from  his  architec- 
tural'stntus  and  special  knowledge  of  the  country. 

AFRICA. 

eannest,  Cliarles. — Qnatre  Annees  au  Congo.'  Paris  (Charpentier)  :  1883, 12mo., 
pp.  xxxi,  and  327,  map,  illustrations.     (Ihiltiit :  price  Ss.) 

Relates  the  author's  ex|X'riences  on  the  Congo  coast,  which  ho  visited  in 
186l>  for  trading  purposes,  returning  early  in  iS73.  Banana,  Ambrizette, 
Kins^mbo,  KlnkoU,  Ambriz,  Kinzao,  Piltir,  and  St.  Paul  de  Loauda  are  the 
chief  pjints  at  which  lie  touched,  and  he  has  no  personal  knowledge  of  the 
great  river  beyond  it«  ab»ilut«  inoulh.  Tliis  ibi>i»k,  however,  contains  much 
information  on  the  captibilities  of  the  country,  the  habits  of  tribes,  and 
^eoiTal  life  on  the  coast,  and  the  illustrations  ore  apparently  from  photographs 
in  most  instances.  A  few  pages  on  the  native  language  south  of  the  Congo  are 
given,  with  a  Fiot  vocabulary. 

The  Tnap  is  a  mere  sketch,  showing  caravan  routes,  Portuguese  real  and 
supposed  boundaries^  t&c* 

GENERAL. 

"ahn,  F.  G. — Insel-Studien.  Versuch  einer  anf  orographische  und  gcologische 
Vevliilltnisse  gegnlndeten  Eintheilnng  der  Inseln,  Leipzig  (Veit) :  1883,  8vo., 
pp.  iv.  and  208,  uuip.     {Dulau  :  price  7a.  Qd,) 

After  a  discussion  of  the  received  opinions  on  insular  systems,  broadly 
classed  as  morphological  (from  their  relations  to  continents)  and  hiological  (from 
their  special  faunistic  and  floral  peculiarities),  the  author  gives  his  reasoD«  and 
authorities  for  classing  the  islands  of  the  world  as  folh)ws:— A.^Tectonic  (or 
iudeftendently  constmcted)  islands,  divided  under  the  entirely  volcanic  (with 
subdivisions  presenting  no  distinct  crater,  one  chief  crater,  and  two  or  more 
aeparatc  craters),  the  ordy  partially  volcanic,  and  thcKje  having  no  volcanic 
formations;  B, — En>led  isslands,  of  which  five  types  are  recognised,  the 
Norwegian,  Swedish,  Gotland,  Danish,  and  British;  C, — Islands  formed  by 
slow  accumulation,  either  of  mineral,  vegetable,  or  animal  substances.  The 
map  (world,  on  Mercators  projectiou)  shows  these  differences  by  colour;  and  a 
good  index  adds  materially  to  the  value  of  this  interesting  treatise. 

lUZe,  Edonard  de. — La  Transcription  et  la  Prouonciation  des  Noms  G^ographiques 
Etrangers.     Paris  (F%rnest  Leroux)  ;  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  27. 

M.  de  Luze  in  1880  puV^lished  a  detailed  work  on  geographical  terminology 
in  different  |iart«  of  the  Globe,  and  now  endeavours,  on  the  simplest  rules  of 
common  sense  in  most  cases,  to  reform  the  various  incorrect  transliterations 
of  proper  names  of  places  that  liave  crept  into  use.  Whnt  he  chiefly  insists 
upon,  is  that  geographical  names  should  be  rendered  as  nearly  as  possible  in 
accordance  with  the  pronunciation  of  the  people  who  originated  thorn  ;  and  he 
considers  that,  except  in  the  case  of  languages  of  a  Liitiu  or  Germanic  origin,  the 
question  of  transliteration  should  always  be  subordinate  to  tliat  of  pronuncia- 
tion, lie  lays  down  the  following  rules : — 1,  That  the  national  character  of  geo- 
graphical names  should  be  preserved,  and  that  nam»'8  either  gal  licised  or  translated 
into  French  should  he  suppressed  as  much  as  possible.  2, 1  hat  names  of  Latin  or 
Germanic  origin  (Italian,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  Germ>m,  Dutch,  Danish,  Swedish, 
and  English)  should  l>e  wiitten  conformably  with  the  oCBciiil  orthography 
adopted  in  the  country  to  which  they  belong.    3,  That  Hungarian,  Polish,  Chek, 


NZW  MAPS, 

Croatian,  Roumanian,  and  kiiidre«l  geograpliical  names  should  he  traosliUrMtM 
in  ncconlance  with  their  pronunciation  in  their  resj»ective  oripnal  conntric*. 
4,  That  French  orthography  fhould  be  aflopted  for  tlie  gcojiniphical  names  of 
cotintrioM  where  the  Latin  alpbaliet  is  not  in  use,  and  that  they  should  be  tniti»- 
littrated  so  as  to  render  thtir  native  pronunciation  as  nearly  ns  may  be.  [The 
Apparent  clashinf;  of  this  rule  as  to  the  use  of  French  orthography  with  ihc 
first  nile,  wiiich  eliminates  gallicised  onmeB,  is  of  course  to  be  cxplaiool 
by  the  fact  tlmt  M.  do  Lnze  addresses  himself  solely  to  French  j;ieogD»pher/4 
and  cartogrnphers.]  5,  Tbat  geographical  names  of  countries  iu  which  no 
written  language  existjn,  should  l»e  iransliternted  conformably  with  the  l-'rendi 
phoneiic  system,  .adopting  as  a  chief  base  the  nationality  of  the  explorers  who 
make  mention  of  them. 

As  regards  geographical  terms  (distinguished  from  names  of  places),  (be 
author  projoscs: — 1,  To  suppress  all  of  a  foreigti  nature  aa  well  as  all  abbp^via- 
lions  of  the  same  meanin'_%  and  to  substitute  throughout  the  corre!»y»c<ndiDg 
French  terms  (this  would  afUct  all  words  signi tying  valley,  mountain,  lake, 
range,  river,  ishmd,  &c. ;  Imt  such  expressions  as  pampn?,  jungle,  steppe, 
savana,  &c.,  are  proposed  to  Itc  retained,,  because  liiey  have  no  French  equivalent, 
and  a  hope  is  expressed  that  Chott,  i^ebkha,  Hamada,  &c.,  may  be  adopted  for 
the  minute  physlcid  conditions  which  they  resi>ectivel3'  represent).  2,  To  retain 
cerlain  geographical  terms  in  fiarenlhesis^  accompanieil  by  some  qualitidtion, 
and  preceded  by  a  French  translation  of  tlieir  meaning. 

Some  general  rules  for  transliteration  of  tho  Latin  and  Germanic  lAQguagie;& 
are  given  in  tho  Api^endis. 


NEW  MAPS. 
(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  E.a.8.) 

EUKOPE. 

Mittel-Eiiropa,  Courskarte  voD  ^ .     Geograph.  Insti tut,  Weimar.     3rd  edition. 

S)  s-heets.     I'rice  <.)s.     {Diilatt,) 

Niederoesterrsteirischen  Qrenz^ebir^e,  Spccial-Touristenkarte  der .    Von 

G,  Freytag.  No.  1.  Uochschwab,  Iloclikohr  von  Weichselbi>den  bis  Eisenerz.  Scale 
1 :  60,000  or  I'-t  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Artaria  &  Co.,  Wien.  Price  Zt, 
C/>«/nu.) 

Odeit  Uebcrsichts-Karte  der ,  von  der  oesterreichischen  G rente  Iwi  Annaberg 

bis  unterhalb  Stettin.  Im  Auftragodes  Ilerru  Ministers  der  offeuiliehen  Arbeit«M 
bis  8cbwe<lt,  gczeichnet  uud  herausgegeben  von  der  Konigticiicia  Odtrstronihau- 
Verwaltung  zu  Breshn,  Scale  1  :  100,000  or  1'3  geographical  miles  to  «n  iocb. 
Sect.  1  Ifatibor,  2Kosel.  3  0pi)cln.  4  Breslau.  5  Steiuan.  GGlogau.  7  Neuialz.  I 
8  Krossen.  10  Kuestria,  Trewcndt,  Breshuu  Price  of  each  section  1«. 
(Duluu.) 

ASIA. 

Corea»  Map  of .    Corrected  by  Mr.  Eondo-^Inkotoy  Vice  Director  of  Study,] 

Imperial  Japanese  Naval  College,  Tokio.     Scale  1 : 2,000,000  or  27  geographicnt  ' 
miles  to  an  inch,     Japanese  characters. 

Tibet  und  zum  KukTl-ITor,  Przewalskis  Reise  durcli  die  Gobi-Wtlste  imd  dea  I 

Kwen-Lun  nacli -,  1870  uud  1880,    Scale  1:3,500,000  or  47 'T.  gcogTaphlcal 

miles  to  an  inch.  Reduktion  der  Originnl-Routenkarte  in  1 : 2,000,<XX).  Petcr- 
mann's  *Geogrflphi5che  MitlheiUtugen,'  Jahrgang  1B83,  Tafel  0.  Justus  Perthes, 
Gotha.    iDuhti.) 


f/ 


■"'■-^^XI»> 


PROCEEDINGS 

OF  THE 

ROYAL  GEOaRAPmCAL   SOCIETT 

AND  MONTHLY  BECOED  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


A  Visit  to  Mr,  Stanley's  Stations  on  the  River  Congo. 
By  H,  H.  Johnston. 

Map,  p.  632. 

In  the  month  of  November  1882, 1  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Congo, 
with  the  intention  of  spending  a  few  weeks  on  the  river,  for  the  pnrpose 
of  studying  its  natural  history.  I  had  previously  passed  a  very  pleasant 
time  in  South- West  Africa  with  Lord  Mayo,  who  had  invited  mo  to  go 
with  him  to  the  river  Cun6n6.  I  remained  about  a  month  on  the  Lower 
Congo,  and  then  went  to  pass  a  few  days  with  a  member  of  the  Baptist 
Mission  at  UnderhiU,  a  pretty  little  station  higher  up  the  river,  about 
35  miles  from  Boma,  and  from  here  I  contemplated  making  a  short 
expedition  into  the  interior.  I  had  just  engaged  some  men,  and  bought 
cloth  and  beads  to  pay  my  way,  and  was  preparing  to  start,  when  the 
chief  of  Yivi,  the  first  station  of  the  Belgian  International  Association, 
sent  me  an  invitation  to  come  over  and  see  Mr.  Stanley,  who  had  just 
arrived  from  his  brief  visit  to  Europe.  I  went  there,  and  met  with  the 
kindest  possible  reception,  not  only  from  Mr.  Stanley,  but  from  all  the 
Europeans  who  were  with  him.  I  spent  a  very  enjoyable  evening,  and 
left  with  regret  the  following  day.  Mr.  Stanley  advised  me  to  give  up 
my  expedition  on  the  opposite  bank,  telling  me  I  had  not  sufficient  men 
or  resources  for  such  an  undertaking,  and  offering  to  start  me  off  into  the 
interior  along  his  road,  but  I  thought  I  would  see  how  far  I  could  get 
along  the  south  bank,  which  had  been  little  visited,  and,  in  case  of 
failure,  return  to  Mr.  Stanley  and  accept  his  kind  offer.  Accordingly,  on 
the  afternoon  of  the  day  on  which  I  quitted  Vivi,  the  19th  of  December, 
I  started  to  walk  from  Underbill  to  Fallaballa,  with  five  men  to  carry 
my  luggage — five  rascals,  as  they  turned  out,  but  they  were  all  I  could 
immediately  procure  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Leaving  Underbill,  I  first  toiled  up  a  steep  and  stony  hill,  most 
exasperating  in  character,  my  feet  slipping  back  at  every  step  off  the 
^harp-edged  stones.  Then,  as  Underbill  vanishes  behind,  shut  out  by 
the  brow  of  the  hill,  a  fresh  stretch  of  the  river  Congo,  rolling  swiftly 

No.  X.— Oct.  1883.]  2  p 


670  A  VISIT  TO  MR,  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  CONGO. 

along  throTigh  narrowing  banks,  cornea  into  view,  with  Vivi  rising  high 
above  its  north  bunk,  a  crest  of  whito  houses  snrmounting  a  scarped  red 
cliff.  The  road  winding  down  from  this  eagle's  nest  to  the  river's  aide 
is  seen  very  diBtinctly.  The  stream  of  the  Congo  here  is  of  immeufio 
depth  (90  fathoras),  and  in  the  rainy  season  flows  at  the  rnto-of  nine 
miles  an  hour ;  but,  to  any  one  not  knowing  this,  it  is  hard  to  believe  this 
river,  500  yards  broad  at  moat,  is  the  same  stream  as  the  great  Lailalitt. 
As  one  descends  the  valley  the  river  finally  disappears  from  view. 
It  is  flowing  nearly  northwards,  and  we  are  going  due  east.  We  paw 
through  two  or  three  native  villages  of  n  comfortable  and  prospexoiu 
appearance,  and  suggesting  here  and  there  by  certain  cunning  &.hifts  and 
contrivances  that  their  inhabitants  arc  not  bereft  of  savoir  vivre.  There 
are  well-cultured  plots  of  maize  and  cassada,  here  and  there  a  lime,  and 
even  an  orange  tree  (these  latter  rare),  papaw  trees,  and  the  beautiful 
passion-flower,  which  gives  the  fruit  known  as  maracuji,  or  grenadilU, 
is  carefully  trained  ovor  a  framework  of  sticks.  Little  plots  of  ground 
are  being  assiduously  hoed,  and  are  marked  out  \vith  geometrical  accuracy 
by  means  of  the  same  device  as  our  gardeners  employ  at  home — a  tight 
string  tied  from  peg  to  peg — only  that  in  tliis  case  a  sort  of  bast  is  used 
instead  of  string.  There  are  clucking  fowls  with  small  chicks  about 
them,  carefully  housed  in  large  hencoops  made  of  withes  and  graas,  to 
protect  the  chickens  from  their  many  enemies.  In  a  rough  sort  of 
shanty,  constructed  principally  of  overlaid  palm-fronds,  the  goats  and 
sheep  (the  sheep  ar©  of  the  usual  Central  African  stock,  ^lith  short  hairy 
coats,  supplemented  in  the  ram  by  a  splendid  silky  mane  from  his  chin 
to  his  stomac^h)  ;  and  even,  rarely,  one  may  see  a  black,  high -shouldered 
bullock  stalled  in  a  not  ill-fashioned  manger  miide  of  the  same  materiaL, 

The  houses  are  well  and  neatly  built,  generally  raised  a  foot  abov( 
the  gix3und  on  a  platform  of  beaten  earth.  There  is  first  of  all  a  &ame— .-^ 
work  of  stout  poles,  one  very  long  pole  forming  the  apex  of  the  slantin^fl 
and  wide-spreading  roof^ — and  on  this  is  fixed  a  covering  of  thin  lath^|| 
and  dried  grass.  The  roof  extends  some  feet  beyond  the  body  of  tl^^^ 
house  and,  in  front,  is  prolonged  to  a  sort  of  verandah,  further  supporti^i^l 
by  two  extra  poles,  and  susceptible  of  any  modification,  from  being  tB^| 
shady  space  of  a  few  feet,  where  the  inmates  of  the  house  pass  most         ^^ 

their  time,  to  becximing  the  great  reception-place  and  palaver-gTX)und ^^f 

kings.     Here,  as   wo   pass,  the  inhabitants  of  each  house  are  nea,,-- 
always  aBsemblod.     The  women  look  up  from  pounding  palm-ker^^, 
and  show  all  their  teetlx  in  a  grin  at  the  "  Mundele  "  (white  roan):    tu\ 
men,  squatted  in  lazy  ease,  take  their  large-bowled  pipes  from  tJe/> 
mouths  and  call  out  a  salutation,  generally  "Mavimpi";  whilst,  irr^ 
solute  between  the  threshold  and  the  interior,  large-headed,  round-evej 
children  mutely  and   distruatfully  regard  the  white  man,  who  mnsf 
embody  as  much  in  their  eyes  some  notion  of  uncanny  bogyism  u  tht 
traditional  "  block  man  "  does  to  English  children. 


I 


theM 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  iaVU;  CONGO.  571 

AfOQnd  oach  -village  will  be  a  grove  of  bananas  or  plantains,  a 
poriK)tual  Boarce  of  food-snpply  to  their  cultivatora.  There  are  prin- 
otpally  two  sorts  of  fruit  eaten  here :  the  plantain,  which  has  no  sweet 
taste,  but  is  delicious  roasted  and  eaten  with  butter,  and  the  richly-sweet 
lianana. 

The  style  of  scenery  on  the  road  to  Pallaballa  ia  typical  of  the 
cataract  r^on  of  the  Congo.  A  succession  of  stony  hills  covered  with 
rough  grass,  and  rich  fertile  valleys,  with  luiuriftnt  forests  and  running 
streams  in  their  depths.  About  midway  to  Pallaballa  you  have  to 
cross  by  moans  of  a  native  ferry  the  river  Mposo,  a  rapid  stream  that 
rises  near  San  Salvador.  Beyond  this  it  is  all' up  hill  and  down  dale, 
till  at  length  we  see  a  fringe  of  fores t,  which  marks  the  site  of  Palla- 
balla, on  the  crest  of  a  great  hill  1600  feet  high.  As  I  pass  through  the 
native  village  the  people  all  cry  out  '*  Mundele,  mundole,"  and  several 
come  forward  and  salute  me  with  "  'Morning,"  a  contraction  of  '*  Good 
morning,"  which  they  have  learnt  from  the  missionaries.  The  mis- 
sionary of  the  Livingstone  Inland  Mission,  who  was  resident  at  Palla- 
balla, gave  me  a  very  kind  reception,  and  a  dainty  and  welcome  meal 
was  soon  prepared.  There  were  delicious  fried  bananas,  pounded  pea-nut 
sauoe  with  roast  chicken,  **  palm-oil  chop,"  and  many  other  native  dishes, 
ipplemented  with  European  luxuries.  After  dinner  the  missionary 
mo  if  I  would  object  to  attend  prayers.  I  of  course  replied 
••Certainly  not,"  and  followed  him  to  the  school-house,  whore  Miss 
Spearing,  a  lady  missionary,  was  residing.  Here  some  twenty  people 
aro assembled,  principally  boys.  There  is  a  little  giggliDg  at  my  presence, 
otherwise  they  are  well-behaved.     The  missionary  prays  in  Fiote  (the 

I  language  of  the  country)  and  in  English,  and  also  roads  a  chapter  of 
the  Bible  in  the  same  tongues.  The  subject  in  Fiote  is  generally 
l)adly  chosen,  being  wearisome  records  of  Jewish  wars,  where  familiar 
pounding  Bible  names  are  strangely  mixed  up  in  unintelligiblo  Fiote, 
All  the  while  the  black  congregation  (awcllod  this  evening  by  my  five 
porters)  sits  stolidly  unmoved,  although  the  missionary  strives  to  infuse 
Kibe  g^eutest  interest  into  the  slaughter  of  the  Canauinites.  After  this 
H  follows  a  Moody  and  Sankey  hymn  in  Fiote,  in  which  I  feel  anything 
H  but  at  home,  and  can  only  make  semblance  with  my  lips  to  be  following. 
Finally,  a  short  and  fairly  sensible  prayer  finishes  up  the  whole,  and 
then  begins  a  ceremony  which  the  natives  would  not  miss  for  the  world. 
Each  one  comes  separately  and  shakes  liands  with  tho  missionary,  Mias 
Spearing,  and  myself,  accompanying  the  shake-hands  with  a  "  goo' 
night,  sir,"  applied  iudillerently  to  either  sex.  Wo  also  retire  to  our 
rooms,  and  although  mine  is  rather  damp  (there  is  a  fine  crop  of  mush- 
rooms—alas  i  not  edible — and  waving  grass  growing  on  my  bedroom 
floor)  I  have  a  comfortable  bed  and  sleep  well. 

My  succeeding  journey  as  fur  as  the  river  Lulu,  which,  owing  to  the 
rapacity  of  the  natives  and  the  robberies  of  my  own  poi-ters,  was  unauc- 

2  p  2 


^kipple 
Kaked 
■  ••Oerfc 


672 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  CONGO. 


cessful  in  its  results^  I  will  pass  over,  and  give  instead  a  few  noteg  on 
Pallaballa  and  the  manners  and  customs  of  its  inhabitants.  I  do  thi« 
somewhat  in  detail,  as  onoo  you  describe  one  Lower  Congo  village  yon 
can  pass  over  the  rest  without  mention  ;  they  are  so  much  alike  between 
Vivi  and  Stanley  Pool. 

It  is  very  damp  at  rallaballa.  Every  morning  and  evening  a  thick 
mist  BtuTounds  everything  and  renders  the  place  clammy  and  unhealthy. 
There  are  four  kings  in  this  neighbourhood,  Kagimipaka,  Nikiangila, 
Tautia,  and  a  small  boy,  whose  name  I  forget.  Kagumpaka  is  the  head 
king  and  only  owes  allegiance  to  the  king  of  Congo  at  San  Salvador.  A 
little  while  ago  one  of  the  queens  of  this  king  of  Congo  made  a  sort  of 
progress  through  his  dominions  and  was  received  with  great  respect  at 
Pallaballa.  There  are  decided  traces  of  Portuguese  influence  here,  and 
many  words  of  that  language  are  introduced  into  the  local  dialect.  At 
Pallaballa  the  natives  are  disposed  to  be  impudent  and  even  aggreasivo 
towards  %vhite  men.  They  are  very  superstitious,  and,  for  every  peracm 
that  dies,  somebody  is  made  ndokki  (or  "*  devil -possessed "),  and  has  to 
take  the  ca««i  poison.  This  is  uaually  administered  in  sncli  a  way 
as  to  be  merely  a  strong  emetic,  under  the  idea  that  the  victim  may 
**  bring  up  '*  the  devil  and  cast  him  out  with  his  bile.  They  think  a 
great  deal  of  their  Inkimha,  and  woe  to  the  whit©  man  who  shall  offend 
them.  When  the  Inkirnba  are  on  the  road,  they  announce  their  coming 
by  a  sort  of  drumming  noise  like  dur-r-r-r!  and  then  all  who  are  not 
initiated  into  their  mysteries  must  clear  out  of  the  road.  A  young 
missionary  who  refused  to  give  way  to  these  fanatics  was  seized  and 
badly  treated.  The  lukjmba  are  in  all  probability  males  undergoing 
circumcision  and  an  initiation  into  the  rites  of  marriage.  They  may  be 
of  any  age,  boys  of  11  or  men  of  40,  but  generally  the  Iiiklmbaship 
is  undergone  by  young  men. 

For  one  native  year  (six  months)  the  ceremonies  last,  and  there  are 
three  or  more  stages  of  initiation,  said  to  be  marked  by  changes  in  their  ^j 
grass  coverings.  They  chalk  themselves  all  over  a  ghastly  white  with.  ^M 
some  argillaceous  earth,  and  do  not  wash  once  during  their  six  months*  "^^ 
probation,  though  they  often  renew  the  white  colouring.  They  are 
taught  a  diflferent  language  by  the  nganga^  or  medicine-man,  whic 
language  apjicara  to  be  quite  different  from  the  ordinary  tongue,  and  ia 
never  taught  to  femalts.  During  the  whole  period  of  their  initiation  ^pi 
they  live  like  the  lilies  of  the  field,  being  sustaijied  at  the  oonuno~<^^H 
«xpense  of  the  village  or  community.  They  renew  their  hideous  whi»  -^| 
olour  every  few  weeks,  and  it  is  a  great  ceremony  with  them.  A^^n 
Inkirnba  in  a  shower  of  rain  is  a  dolorous  spectacle.  No  one  has  ;— »  ^f 
been  able  to  examine  into  their  sacred  tongue.  Might  it  be  some  origii 
and  more  archaic  form  of  Bantu  language  conserved  for  religious  |*  tuf. 
poses,  like  the  Sanscrit,  the  old  Sclavonic,  and  the  Latin? 

The  Inkirnba  also  receive  a  new  name  when  they  pass  through  //^ 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STAXLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  CONGO. 


573 


xnysterieB,  and  it  is  a  great  offence  to  call  a  man  by  the  name  of  His 
ciiiltlhood  only,  though,  one  may  join  it  to  his  new  name  for  purposes  of 
identification. 

The  people  of  Pallaballa  may  be  said  to  *'  patronise  "  Christianity. 
"When  the  missionary  holds  a  Siiinday  service  in  kinr;  Kagurapaka's  house, 

tuome  twenty  or  thirty  idlers  look  in,  in  a  genial  way,  to  see  what  is 
going  on,  much  as  we  might  be  present  at  any  of  their  ceremonies. 
They  behave  very  well,  and  imitate  with  that  exact  mimicry  that 
only  the  negro  possesses,  all  our  gestures  and  actions,  so  that  a  hasty 
observer  would  conclude  they  were  really  touched  by  the  service.  They 
kneel  down  witli  an  abandon  of  devotion,  clasp  their  hands  and  say 
"Amen  "  with  a  deep  ventral  enthusiasm.  The  missionary  gave  a  short 
sermon  in  Fiote,  marvellously  expressed,  considering  the  short  time  he 

I  had  been  studying  the  language.  The  king  took  up  constantly  the  end 
of  some  phrase  and  repeated  it  with  patronising  interest  after  the  mi^s- 
fiionary.  Just  to  show  ho  was  attending,  throwing  meanwhile  a  furtive 
glance  at  his  vt-ives,  who  were  not  pursuing  their  avocations  with 
BufBcient  diligence  outside,  A  short  prayer  concluded  the  service,  and 
when  the  king  rose  from  his  knees  he  promptly  demanded  the  loan  of  a 
handscrew  to  eifect  some  alteration  in  his  new  canoe, 
^P  Round  Pallaballa  the  vegetation  is  very  rich.  There  is  beautiful 
forest  in  the  valleys,  pine-apples  grow  wild,  and  a  fern  similar  to  the 
bracken  gives  a  familiar  air  to  the  woodland  glades.  The  CucurbitaceaB 
H;are  very  noticeable  here  ;  particularly  one  speeies  that  has  most  gorgeous 
fruits.  They  are  egg-shaped,  about  the  size  of  a  pear,  and  covered  with 
prickles ;  the  outside  is  the  most  brilliant  orange  colour ;  when  ripe, 
the  husk  splits  into  four  sections,  displaying  the  interior^  where  the 

» black  seeds  are  lying  enveloped  in  pulp  of  the  richest  crimson  hue  I  have 
ever  seen  in  nature.  The  commonest  birds  round  Pallaballa  are  the 
grey  parrot,  the  Gijpohierax  vulture ^  and  a  small  black  hornbilL 

I  returned  to  Vivi  on  the  first  day  of  the  new  year»  and  liegan  to 
make  active  preparations  for  my  departure  up  the  Congo.  Mr.  Stanley 
had  fitted  me  up  with  everj'thing  likely  to  make  ray  expedition  succefls- 
fnl,  and  had,  moreover,  given  me  three  of  his  pet  Zanzibaris,  three  men 
whom  I  found  simply  invaluable  in  every  difficulty.     I  left  Yivi  on  the 

.  7th  of  January  to  walk  to  Isangila,  the  next  station,  a  distance  of 
58  miles.  Our  road  was  continually  up  and  down,  over  stony  hills  and 
into  thickly  forested  ravines,  across  tumultuous  rivers  and  through 
muddy  marshes.  The  road  was  a  mere  native  path,  often  lost  in  a 
morass  or  untraceable  in  high  grass.  The  scenery,  however,  though  very 
similar  to  that  already  described  at  Pallaballa,  was  distinctly  beautiful, 
and  about  the  falls  of  Ngoma  became  positively  grand.  I  reached  Isaugila 
in  three  days  and  a  half,  having  suflered  much  from  the  violent  rains. 
Isangila  is  a  neat  little  stution  set  on  a  breezy  bill,  facing  the  splendid 

,  xapids  of  the  Congo.     The  journey  thence  up  the  river  to  the  next 


571 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STANI.ErS  STATIONS  OX  THE  RIVER  CONGft. 


station,  Manyanga,  was  a  distance  of  80  miles,  accampliBhed  in  four 
days  with  a  little  rivor  steamer,  now  removed  to  Stanley  Pool.  TIhs 
scenery  all  along  the  route  is  comparatively  uninteresting.  Manyaagt 
is  a  fine  station,  well  built  of  locally  mado  bricks,  and  advantageously 
placed  on  the  top  of  a  very  steep  liilL  In  the  native  market  ck*o  by 
there  is  abundance  of  provisions,  and  500  eggs  may  not  infrequently  he 
bought  in  one  week  if  necessary. 

There  are  two  roads  from  Manyanga  to  Stanley  Pool,  one  along  tuc 
north,  and  the  other  along  the  south  bank  of  the  Congo.  The  southern 
road  is  the  most  easy  and  direct,  and  runs  through  more  amiable  people* 
than  the  other,  so  I  chose  this  route  for  my  journey,  I  stopped  a  night 
at  Luteto,  the  next  station,  and  reached  Lcopoldville,  the  great  eetabliab- 
ment  of  Mr.  Stanley  on  Stanley  Pool,  in  six  days.  They  wer«  six  d^ 
of  moat  agreeable  travel  (the  distance  was  95  miles),  for  the  road  nt 
through  undeniably  beautiful  scenery,  the  people  were  kifidly  and 
(•ourtcouH,  and  last,  but  not  least,  the  pathway,  which  is  one  of  the  gnat 
ivory  routes  to  the  coast,  was  bordered  with  masses  of  pine-apples,  wboM 
golden,  luscious  fruit  wo  ate  freely,  but  fortunately  with  no  disaatvotu 
results.  Leopoldvillc,  when  I  first  arrived,  was  not  in  a  very  flourishing 
condition;  it  lacked  the  master-hand  of  Stanley  to  set  matters  going 
more  briskly.  The  stock  of  European  provisions  had  been  too  r^idly 
eaten  up,  and  after  a  few  months  of  fat  living  a  time  of  very  meagre 
nourishment  ensued.  During  the  three  weeks  that  I  first  passed  there 
my  blood  got  very  poor,  and  1  suffered  much  from  the  many  ulcers  thai 
broke  out  all  over  my  body.  I  owe  my  restoration  to  health  to  the  kind 
care  of  Mr.  Comber,  a  Fellow  of  this  Society,  and  a  member  of  the 
Baptist  Mistiion  established  on  Mr.  Stanley's  ground  at  Lt'-opoldville. 
However,  although  Lieutenant  Braconuier  could  not  manage  to  give  m«5 
or  himself  a  good  dinner,  he  and  his  subordinates  did  eveiy  thing  in  their 
power  to  aid  me  in  my  researches,  not  only  because  of  the  letters  I  had 
brought  from  Mr>  Stanley,  but  because  of  the  natural  kindness  of  heart 
that  characterises  most  Belgians. 

Stanley  Pool  is  a  great  expansion  of  the  Congo,  and  is  about  2^  zoileB 
long  and  IC  miles  broad.  There  are  seventeen  islands  of  noteworthy 
dimension,  the  largest  of  which  is  13  miles  in  breadth.  But  the  surface 
of  the  Pool  is  also  stre-wTi  with  sandbanks  alternately  covered  and  un- 
covered according  to  the  season  of  the  year,  and  there  are  also  many 
floating  islets  formed  of  masses  of  aquatic  vegetation,  wliioh  are  bo 
strongly  interknitted  by  their  fibres  and  roots  that  a  man  can  at 
them. 

The  Pool  forms  as  it  were  a  great  cup-liko  basin  with  a  rim  incom- 
pletely formed  by  ranges  of  peaked  and  picturesque  mountains,  ranging 
probably  from  1000  to  4000  feet  in  height.  The  banks  of  this  great  ex- 
panse of  water  offer  considerable  variety  in  character.  At  the  northern  or 
north-eastern  end,  whore  the  Upper  Congo  enters  it  through  a  somewhat 


A  VISIT  TO  MB,  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  CONGO. 


675 


row  passage,  the  scenery  is  yery  beatttiful.  High  woods  rise  so 
steeply  above  tlie  water  that  as  you  sail  beneath  their  «hade  they  seem 
•lo  mount  indefinitely  towards  the  sky.  It  is  a  wall  of  forest.  Then 
almost  opposite,  following  the  northern  bank,  are  the  **  Dover  Cliffs," 
their  scarped  sides  white  and  glistening,  and  their  crowns  being  covered 
with  soft  green  grass.    They  more  resemble,  however,  the  scenery  round 

^Lymo  Begis,  in  Dorset  and  Devon,  than  the  harsher  and  more  rugged 
tjliffis  of  Dover.  Then  on  both  sides  of  the  Pool  the  shores  dwindle  down 
into  flat  forest  land,  the  encircling  girdle  of  mountains  trending  oflf 
towards  the  interior,  and  when  you  reach  Mfwa,  or  "  Brazzaville,"  the 
coast  is  low  and  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  water.  "  Brazzaville  *'  is  at 
present  merely  a  little  low-lying  native  village  with  some  half-dozen 
huts  buried  in  bananas,  palms,  and  thick  vegetation.  It  has  little  or  no 
advantages  as  a  site  fur  a  European  station.  Nearly  opposite  is  a  curious 
cliff,  apparently  of  rod  clay,  which  rises  abruptly  from  out  of  its  flat 
surroundings  about  50  feet  alxive  the  ri vor^  This  is  called  Calina  Point,  for 
here  a  member  of  the  Belgian  Expedition,  Lieutenant  Calina,  was  recently 
drownod.  The  current  is  terribly  swift  aa  it  races  round  this  promontory, 

^land  is  very  dangerous  to  native  canoes  ascending  the  stream.     Calina 

Point  is  in  the  possession  of  the  inhabitant*  of  a  very  largo  native  village 

in  the  proximity  called  Kinshacha.    They  are  very  adverse  to  Europeans, 

and  have  hitherto  refused  to  allow  a  station  to  be  built  either  in  their 

village  or  on  Calina  Point.     Shoidd  De  Brazza  ever  reach  the  Congo  in 

I  his  present  expedition,  and  succeed  in  establishing  himself  at  Mfwa,  it 
is  rumoured  *  that  he  would  liko  to  take  Calina  Point  and  make  it  the 
Gibraltar  of  the  Pool,  and  then  with  this  fortified  post  and  the  station 
of  Mfwa  opposite  he  would  be  able  to  close,  if  necessary,  the  mouth  of 

I  -Stanley  Pool  whore  it  oommenoes  to  narrow  into  the  rushing  lower 
ortion  of  the  Congo.    Leopoldville,  the  great  central  station  of  Mr. 
Stanley's  expedition,   is  situated  on  a  commanding  height,  and  not 

f  exactly  on  the  Pool  itself,  but  rather  on  the  short  bit  of  navigable  river 
beyond  this  expanse  of  the  Congo,  a  little  distance  from  the  first  fall. 
As  to  the  falls  of  the  Congo,  I  might  mention  that  they  are  nothing 
but  immense  rapids,  and  do  not  exhibit  anywhere  a  grand  deiscent 
or  cascade  of  water. 

On  the  20th  of  February  I  left  Leopoldville  in  a  large  lighter  or 
whale-boat,  rowed  by  a  sturdy  crew  of  Zanzibaris,  to  asoend  the  river  as 
nr  ti8  Bolobo,  a  largo  native  village  about  250  miles  beyond  Staidey 

'Pool,  where  the  last  station  of  the  Exi>edition  had  then  been  founded. 
My  departure  was  inauspicioiisly  signalised  by  a  downpour  of  rain  that 


*  Since  De  Bmzza  bixDadf  luft  Stanley  Pool  to  retiu>Q  to  Fraoco  bome  three  yoara  a^ 

bis  Senepileso  sergeant,  Malamine,  arrived  at  Kinsliasha  on  a  miasiou  from  him,  but  tho 

ople,  aUhough  they  received  him  kindly,  vroald  not  liatcn  to  any  prnposab  for 

eiving  a  French  station  in  their  niidat,  and  they  have  equally  rcjocted  Mr.  Stanley'* 

pveciures. 


576 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  COSGO. 


was  almost  exceptional  in  its  force  and  ilnration.  We  had  just  managed 
to  row  as  far  ae  Kinehasha,  tlie  place  I  iia^^e  before  mentioned  a«  being 
gomewhat  nnfriendly  towards  Europeans,  but  not  knowing  this  at  the 
time,  I  yielded  to  the  Zanzibaris'  invitation  to  descend,  and  whilat  the 
boat  waa  pmt  into  a  little  creek  we  went  up  into  the  village  and  took 
refuge  in  a  native  house  placed  at  my  dispo8al  by  the  natives.  Her©  the 
contrast  to  the  raging  storm  outside  was  for  the  next  few  mrnntes  de- 
licious, for  we  found  perfect  dryness  and  a  comfortable  bed  of  matting 
to  sit  upon.  The  other  occupants  of  the  house,  excepting  the  many 
and  constant  visitors,  were  a  middle-aged  man,  with  his  hair  en  ekigum, 
liis  wife,  suckling  a  baby,  whoso  forehead  waa  ornamented  with  a  band 
of  scarlet  pigment,  and  an  old  man  who  might  have  been  a  poor,  broken- 
down  uncle  of  the  family.  There  was  a  wood  fire  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor,  and  its  smoke  was  very  disagreeable.  The  house  was  clean  aad 
tidy,  and  round  the  walla  were  ranged  many  neatly  made  articles.  Long 
pipes  with  little  bowls,  a  clarionet,  a  white  mug  (these  two  last  presents 
from  the  white  men) ;  a  manmba ;  a  collection  of  skilfully  made  little 
pouches  of  goat-skin,  coDtaining  I  know  not  what ;  hippopotamus  har- 
poons, fishing  nets,  bonis,  and  a  multitude  of  odds  and  ends  only  to  be 
classed  under  that  convenient  terra  et  cetera.  I  opened  my  case  of  pro- 
visions, laid  the  cloth  on  the  bed,  and  sat  down  to  my  frugal  repast 
with  considerable  appetite.  All  this  time  visitors  were  flocking  in; 
many  children,  eonie  of  them  pretty  little  things,  made  friends  with  me, 
and  wore  wonder-stricken  at  my  ticking  watch. 

Next  day,  Feb.  lilst,  the  Pool  began  to  widen  out  into  all  its  mag- 
nificent breadth.  There  were  numberless  islands  on  which  the  Boraesus 
palm  was  growing.  These  palms  are  extremely  beautiful  and  symme- 
trical in  shape,  and  the  hanging  clusters  of  fruit  are  bright  orange.  The 
vegetation  that  clothes  the  shores  of  the  islands  is  very  rich  and  pleasing 
in  colour ;  brightened  with  masses  of  yellow  flowers,  lilac-coloured 
papiliouucea',  and  mauve  convolvuluses.  The  beautiful  scarlet  aeed* 
vessels  of  a  sort  of  bean  form  blazing  clusters  of  gorgeous  efi'ect  amid 
the  tender  green  foliage.  On  the  many  snags  that  rear  their  withered 
branches  over  the  rushing  stream  many  little  birds  have  for  safety's 
sake  hung  their  pendant  nests  of  grass,  and  there  is  a  continual  twitter- 
ing and  fluttering  of  dainty  forms  round  the  gnarled  old  trunks  and 
whitened  twigs.  We  saw  many  herds  of  hippopotami  as  we  passed, 
nine  or  ten  animals  generally  going  together.  They  approached  the 
boat  with  a  boldness  and  conEdeuce  that  led  one  to  think  they  bad  been 
little  persecuted ;  the  natives,  however,  hunt  them  assiduously  with  the 
harpoon. .  Indeed,  in  one  creek  where  the  hippopotami  were  indulging 
in  the  uncouthest  gambols,  we  saw  a  group  of  men  some  twenty  yards 
from  their  proy  actively  preparing  for  the  chase.  The  tameneas  of  these 
huge  beasts  is  wonderful ;  one  could  almost  fancy  oneself  in  the  incloBnre 
of  some  zoological  gardens,  and  when  they  opened  their  huge  months 


4 


I 


A  VISIT  TO  MH.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  HIE  RIVER  CONGO. 


577 


from  time  to  time,  displaying  their  gliBteninfi:  tasks,  I  Bought  in- 
voluntarily for  the  bun  of  my  childhood  to  deftly  throw  into  the  pink 
I  chasm  that  yawned  before  me.  Flocks  of  grey  parrots  flew  across  the 
^ky,  alternately  screeching  and  whistling  melodiously.  I  have  seen  it 
erroneously  stated  that  the  grey  parrot  never  whistles  in  a  wild  state ; 
on  the  contrary,  it  does  so  very  sweetly,  and  with  a  great  variety  of 
Kkote. 

The  "  Dover  clifTs  "  came  into  sight  towards  the  further  end  of  the 
Pool,  their  white  sides  glistening  in  the  tiun.  Tho  banks  hero  begin  to 
be  festooned  with  a  curious  species  of  palm,  apparently  a  climber.  The 
fronds  are  prolonged  into  a  long  bare  stalk,  curiously  notched.  The 
fronds  are  alternate ;    the  reason  uf  the  notches  does  not  seem  to  be 

tiWery  obvious. 
A  little  further  on  the  scenery  changed  a  little.  On  the  north,  or, 
more  properly,  the  westem  bank,  tho  high  wooded  bills  continued,  but 
on  the  other  side  stretched  a  Hat  and  sandy  woodland,  with  occasional 
tiny  rills  of  delicious  water,  water  infinitely  preferable  for  drinking 
purposes  to  that  of  the  Congo,  which  is  tepid  in  temperature,  weak-tea- 
like in  colour,  and  often  full  of  sediment  or  sand. 

AVe  were  six  days  voyaging  up  tho  river,  which,  beyond  Stanley 
Pool,  varied  in  breadth  from  COO  yards  to  1000,  before  we  reached  tho 
station  of  Msuata.  Throughout  this  distance  of  about  110  miles  only 
one  affluent  of  any  size  greater  than  a  mere  brook  enters  the  Congo, 
and  this  river,  which  cornea  from  the  sovith-east,  has  waters  of  an  indigo- 
black  colour  that  flow  for  some  mile  or  two  side  by  side  with  the  yelluw 
stream  of  the  Congo  without  mingling.  The  northern  bank  of  the  river, 
until  Msuata  is  roaclioil,  is  ([uite  uninhabited  owing,  it  is  said,  to  tho 
depopulation  caused  by  frequent  wars.  Msuata  is  one  of  the  brightest 
and  prettiest  of  all  Mr.  Stanley's  stations,  and  is  fortunately  surrounded 
by  very  amiable  natives  wltusc  feelings  towards  the  white  men  are  ex- 

Btremely  cordial.  We  stayed  one  night  at  this  station  to  rest  ourselves 
ftnd  dry  the  baggage,  soaked  by  the  almost  incessant  rains,  and  then 
■farted  for  the  mouth  of  tlie  Wabfjma-Quango  river  (originally  called 
"by  Stanley  the  Ibari-Nkutuj,  where  we  intended  to  stop  the  night  in  a 
large  Bayansi  village.  On  our  way  we  passed  the  curious  promontory 
of  Ganchu,  a  long  spit  of  land  advancing  into  the  river  which  seems  to 
alternate  between  island  and  peninsula.  Hero  is  situated  the  village  of 
Ganchu,  ruled  by  an  important  chief  of  the  same  name.  It  was  this 
village  that  Stanley  on  his  iirst  and  celebrated  descent  of  the  Congo 
called  "  pirates'  village,"  misconceiving  the  peaceful  intentions  of  tho 
inhabitants.  The  river  WabQma  at  its  juncture  with  the  Congo  is  about 
as  broad  as  the  Thames  at  Westminster.  The  scenery  along  its  banks 
is  pretty,  being  mostly  rich  forest,  but  it  is  otherwise  unimposing.  The 
mouth  of  the  river  is  somewhat  ill-adapted  for  navigation.  On  one  side 
is  a  long,  sandbank,  on  the  other  a  line  of  rocks,  and  only  a  tortuous 


578 


A  VISn'  TO  MR.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  BIVER  CONGO. 


passage  between,  but  wbea  these  obstacles  are  passed  the  navigation  is 
fairly  simple  and  the  channel  deep.  I  have  ascended  this  river  but  a 
bliurt  distancie,  only  some  eight  or  ten  miles  at  most,  so  that  I  am  nnable 
to  give  much  information  respecting  it  from  my  own  observation, 
and  oan  merely  repeat  what  I  have  heard  from  Mr.  Stanley  respectiog 
itB  course  aud  origin.  It  appears  that  the  main  stream,  the  W'abuiaa* 
flows  out  of  Lake  Leopold  IL  (a  sheet  of  water  about  70  miles  long 
reaching  to  latitude  1^  40'  S.)»  and  after  running  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Oongo  for  some  distance,  flows,  as  it  were,  a  little  away  from  this  river, 
towards  the  south,  and  broadens  out  greatly,  as  does  the  Congo  in  its 
upper  course.  Like  the  Congo,  also,  this  river  narrows  greatly  towards 
its  mouth.  It  is  in  this  southern  bend  of  the  Wabuma  that  tbo  gsnl 
Quango  from  Angola  enters  it,  and  after  their  jimction,  the  two  riveni, 
distinct  in  colour,  the  Wabuma  indigo,  aud  the  Quango  a  muddy  yellow, 
flow  together  towards  the  west  and  enter  the  Congo  about  lat.  3'  20'  &■ 

The  name  Ibari-Nkutu  given  by  Stanley  to  this  big  river  ia  quits 
unknown  to  the  natives,  and  probably  arose  through  a  misconceptioB. 
It  is  called  Wabiima  near  its  mouth,  from  the  tribes  of  that  uama  who 
inhabit  the  shores  along  its  lower  course,  and  this  name  would  geuerallj 
seem  to  indicate  the  stream  which  flows  from  Lake  Leopold  IL  The 
natives  know  nothing  of  the  Quango,  but  the  large  river  that  Stanley 
has  seen  flowing  into  the  Wabuma  can  only  be  that  stream,  judging 
both  from  its  direction  aud  the  volume  of  its  waters.  There  are  one  or 
two  small  affluents  to  Lake  Leopold  II.  which  may  extend  this  rivar 
system  farther,  and  the  Levy  Hills,  marked  on  Stanley's  first  mapi, 
probably  form  the  watershed  between  the  great  Ikelemba  and  thii 
newly  discovered  lake. 

The  large  and  populous  Bayausi  village,  situated  at  the  confluenoa  of 
the  Wabiima  and  the  Congo,  is  veiy  picturesque,  as  seen  from  the 
water,  a  broad  lane  leading  up  to  a  grove  of  oil-palms  and  bananas, 
with  compact  and  tidy-looking  houses  interspersed  among  them ;  bat 
on  landing  the  impression  is  rather  spoilt  by  the  horrible  black 
fetid  mud,  strewn  with  decaying  ofl^al,  that  one  has  to  cross.  The 
people  of  course  are  assembled  to  greet  us,  and  the  chief  is  there,  clad 
in  a  rusty-red  garment,  and  looking  not  half  such  a  fine  fellow  as  many 
of  his  subjects.  The  people  here  are  a  finer  looking  race  than  any 
I  have  yet  seen  on  the  Congo.  Some  of  the  men  are  perfect  Greek 
statues  as  regards  the  splendid  development  and  poise  of  their  figurea. 
They  have  all  pleasing  faces,  because  of  the  good-humoui'  that  enlivQU 
their  features.  Another  remarkable  point  about  them  ia  their  oonfc- 
paratively  great  development  of  hair.  Though  the  hair  is  curly  and 
crisp,  it  often  becomes  quite  long,  aud  is  twisted  and  tortured  into  all 
sorts  of  fantastio  coiffures.  The  men  wear  it  in  horns,  either  on  the 
top  of  the  head,  or  in  a  pig-tail,  or  depending  on  each  side  of  their 
cheeks ;  also  in  a  sort  of  "  chignon."     The  women  sometimes  just  fjda 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STAJi LEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVEE  CONGO. 


579 


it  up  round  the  bead,  or  comb  it  out  smoothly  and  strain  it  over  pads  in 
^bi  manner  much  resembling  a  style  in  vogue  (chignons)  some  years  ago 
^kr  they  will  plait  it  into  an  infinitude  of  little  rats'  tails,  that  from 
^Hlheir  stiilness  stand  up  all  round  their  head  in  a  bristling  manner.  A 
^Med  dye,  which  is  got  liom  tlie  bark  of  a  certain  tree,  jirobably  cam- 
HJwixkI,  is  used  to  a  great  extent  for  colouring  their  nails,  and  often  their 
bodies  and  clothes,  with  a  warm  tinge  of  maroon. 

I  slept  the  night  at  the  Bayansi  village  in  a  oomfortablo  house, 
divided  into  three  rooms,  which  might  be  desciibed  as  kitchen,  parlour, 
■fiknd  bedroom. 

Passing  over  many  days  of  voyaging  up  this  glorious  river,  1  will 
give  from  my  diary  a  brief  description  of  one  of  the  days  spent  at 
Bolobu,  the  last  of  Mr.  Stanley's  stationa,  and  practically  the  furthest 
point  which  1  attained  on  the  Congo. 

*'^  March  llh. — This  laorniug  early,  King  Ibaka  arrived  to  pay  us  a 
visit.  After  tlie  necessary  palaver  was  over,  I  atiked  permission  to  tak0 
his  portrait,  which  was  accorded,  but  he  had  not  the  slightest  intentiMi 
of  sitting  for  it,  and  moved  about  at  will,  but  I  was  nevertheless  able 
to  get  his  exact  likeness  by  availing  myself  of  his  complete  immobility 
whilst  drinking  palm  wine,  during  Avbich  very  strange  ceremonies  w«re 
porformcd.  There  is  a  legend  that  a  king  of  li(5l<5b(>,  long,  long  ago,  in 
thfi  legends  of  the  Bayansi,  was  drinking  Malafu  (palm  wine)  at  his 
ease,  one  day,  whvn  a  leopard  stole  up  behind  him  unawares,  jumped  on 
his  back,  and  strangled  him  before  the  king  could  cry  for  help-  To 
avoid  such  a  catastrophe  in  future,  the  following  ceremony  was  instituted 
by  his  successor.  Before  the  king  is  about  to  drink,  he  imposes  silenoo  on 
the  people  assembled,  by  snapping  his  fingers  towards  them  and  ciying 
*  Ma.'  (*  Mu  *  is  an  exclamation  to  call  attention  to  any  thing— it  is 
used  to  dugs.)  A  wife  is  crouched  behind  him,  a  little  boy  on  h.is  left 
hand.  The  wife  then  also  calls  '  Mii,'  and  clasps  her  loixl  tightly  round 
tho  stomach  with  both  hands.  The  little  boy  covers  his  face  with  one 
hand,  and  claps  the  other  continually  on  his  extended  leg.  Then  the 
king,  sticking  the  first  finger  of  his  left  hand  into  hia  throat  below  the 
oar,  with  tho  right  hand  raises  the  glass  and  drinks.  After  he  has 
quenched  his  thirst  he  passes  his  hand  across  his  mouth,  and  then  points 
with  his  fi.nger  in  the  direction  where  he  next  intends  to  levy  war. 
When  ho  has  not  any  quarrel  immediately  on  hand,  he  simply  points 
Lis  linger  upwards ;  then  snaps  hia  finger,  says  *  Ma '  again,  and  the 
ceremony  is  at  an  end,  and  talking  is  resumed.  All  these  ceremonies 
he  went  through  carefully  whilst  he  drank  the  Miilafu  in  our  presence. 
Tho  Malafu  here  is  made  from  tho  sap  of  the  Boraesus  palm.     I  prefer 

•it  to  any  other. 
\     "  In  the  afternoon  I  went  into  a  neighbouring  town  to  make  a  sketch 
of  a  house.     Tho  natives  received  me  very  well,  and  took  great  interest 
in  my  work:  too  much  interest,  in  fact,  for  certain  officious  friends 


580 


A  VISIT  TO  MR.  STANLEY'S  STATIONS  ON  THE  RIVER  CONGO. 


among  them,  in  their  efforts  to  keep  tho  coureo  clear,  showed  an  ill-jnd 
Bcvcrity  towards  the  unwitting  persons  who  came  between  me  and  my 
object  They  lieat  a  woman,  who  beat  a  boy,  who  throw  a  stone  at 
some  one  else,  and  soon  there  was  a  general  row,  in  the  middle  of  which 
I  thought  it  best  to  retire,  in  caso  tho  general  excitement  which  wm 
surging  amongst  them  ahould  bo  turned  against  tho  white  man  who 
had  unwillingly  brought  discord  into  their  village  with  his  soroeriBh 
practices  of  *  scratching  images  on  white  cloth  with  a  piece  of  stick' 
(sic).  Indeed,  had  I  doubted  aa  t^  the  propriety  of  retiring,  my 
hesitation  woidd  not  have  lasted  long,  for  a  friendly  young  man  who 
had  in  a  measure  constituted  himself  my  guide,  took  my  sketch-book 
with  an  apologetic  smile,  closed  it  gently,  and  taking  me  by  the  hand, 
led  me  out  of  the  crowd.  Fortunately  my  sketch  of  the  house  itself  was 
finished,  and  I  was  only  obliged  to  leave  incomplete  a  group  of  native* 
in  the  foreground  that  I  had  commenced.  I  tried  to  make  my  retreat 
seem  as  little  liko  one  as  possible,  and  stopped  frequently  to  play  with 
children  and  admire  the  arms  and  spears  of  the  natives  that  were  closing 
up  behind  me.  All  the  same,  I  felt  myself  being  as  politely  as  possible 
ejected  from  the  village,  and  the  smiling  natives  insisted  on  accompanying 
me  till  I  was  well  out  of  the  precincts  and  on  the  road  lo  the  station.  This 
waa  tho  first  time  a  white  man  had  ever  entered  their  village,  though  it 
was  barely  two  miles  from  the  station,  and  as  I  was  alone  and  unarmed 
in  a  village  of  about  three  thousand  inhabitants  I  think  they  treated  mn 
exceptionally  well." 

I  left  Bolobo  a  day  or  two  afterwards  and  descended  tho  river  a£  far 
as  Msnata,  the  station  I  had  previously  visited  near  the  "Wabiima  river. 
Here  I  passed  six  ver>'  pleasant  weeks  painting  the  scenery  and 
studying  the  natives,  and  here  I  collected  vocabularies  of  three  im- 
portant dialects,  tlie  Bateko,  the  Bayansi,  and  the  Wabiima,  Theic 
tribes  are  the  i>rincipal  races  on  the  Congo  between  Bolobo  and  Stanley 
Pool,  but  they  appear  to  be  compai-atlvcly  recent  arrivals  on  the  river 
and  to  have  diepossessed  or  enslaved  the  former  inhabitants  of  its  banks. 
Tho  Bateke  are  mere  resident  colonists  from  the  north-west,  between 
tho  Ogowe  and  the  Congo ;  the  Bayansi  come  from  the  Equator  and 
north-east,  and  are  the  great  travellers  and  traders  of  the  Upper  Congo. 
The  Wabuma  inhabit  the  river  Wabiima  (Quango)  in  its  lower  conrse. 
All  these  natives  are  kindly^  merry,  and  courteous  in  behaviour;  with 
splendid  physical  development  and  great  artistic  power  shown  in 
decorating  all  their  utonKils  and  arms.  They  are  very  fond  of  music, 
and  from  their  five-stringed  instruments  draw  many  harmonic  of 
plaintive  tone  and  perfect  rhythm.  Their  artistic  designs  are  often 
indelicate,  although  in  their  language  and  gesturcH  they  have  a  great 
regai-d  for  decency.  Their  languages  are  Bantu  of  the  most  thorough 
character.  That  of  the  Wabuma  is  strangely  guttural ;  otherwise,  in 
many  wonls  it  offers  some  resemblance  to  the  Mpongwe  of  tho  Gaboon. 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  WA-ITUSIBA  AND  THE  MANGAHERI,  ETC. 


881 


The  Batek^  ig  more  allied  to  Congo,  and  the  Bayansi  recalls  in  many  of 
ite  expressions  tho  tongues  of  the  eastern  coast.  In  all  these  languages 
there  are  many  words  almost  identical  with  the  Kaffir,  Ki-swahili,  and 
Congo  tongues.  Zanzibaris  can  often  make  themselves  imderstood  in 
conversing  with  the  nativeB. 

On  my  return  to  Leopoldville,  I  again  foimd  Mr.  Stanley,  who  had 
just  arrived,  I  passed  nine  mosfe  agreeable  days  with  him  here,  going 
about  the  Pool  in  all  directions  to  attend  palavers  with  chiefs  that 
*'  Bula  Matade  "  (Mr.  Stanley)  was  holding.  At  last,  however,  the  time 
drew  nigh  when  we  had  to  separate,  Mr.  Stanley  to  commence  his 
great  journey  on  the  Upper  River,  and  I  to  continue  on  my  road  back  to 
the  coast.  I  parted  from  my  kind  host  with  much  regret,  and  I  can  only 
say  that  tho  hospitality  that  I  met  with  on  the  Congo  from  Mr.  Stanley 
and  the  members  of  his  expedition  was  almost  princely  in  its  character. 
I  must  also  thank  the  employes  of  the  Dutch  Trading  Company  and  the 
English  missionaries  for  tho  assistance  and  information  they  afforded 

»jiie  at  various  times  during  my  Congo  explorations. 
I  Returning  to  Vivi,  I  made  several  minor  excursions,  visiting  the  falls 
of  Yclldla  and  certain  villages  in  the  neighbourhood.  Then  as  thi*  time 
for  meeting  tho  Portuguese  steamer  drew  nigh,  I  embarked  in  a  whale- 
boat  with  my  three  Zanzibaris  and  some  supplementary  Krumen  and 
rowe<l  down  the  river  to  Banana,  where  I  went  on  board  the  steamer 
PorttKjal  that  had  just  anivod,  and  took  a  regretful  leave  of  the  three 
faithful  servitors  that  Mr.  Stanley  had  lent  me,  between  whom  and 
myself  a  warm  attachment  had  arisen. 


A  Vmi  to  the  Wa-itumha  Iron-worlcen  and  the  MangaheHj  near 
Mamhoia,  in  East  Central  Africa,    By  J.  T.  Last. 

In  October  and  November  1882  I  was  al>le  to  make  two  little  cxcur- 

■ions  amongst  the  tribes  living  around  Mamboia :  the  first  was  to  the 

langaheri  and  Wa-itumba  tribes  of  tho  Sagala  nation.     These  live  to 

be  south  of  Mamboia.    The  latter  tribe  is  famous  for  smelting  and 

rorking  up  iron  into  hoes.     The  second  and  more  important  excursion 

ras  to  the  redoubtable  Masai,  who  live  near  the  borders  of  the  Nguru 

country,  an  account  of  which  has  already  been  communicated  through 

Sir  John  Kirk  to  the  Society.     The  object  of  the  present  paper  is  to  give 

some  details  of  my  visit  to  the  Mangaheri  and  Wa-itumba  tribes. 

The  Mangaheri  tribe  inhabit  a  district  some  35  miles  long  by 
15  miles  wide.  It  is  a  mass  of  mountains  and  hills  with  narrow  valleys 
intervening ;  situated  between  6°  20'  and  6"  40'  S.  lat.,  and  about  37^ 
and  37°  40'  E.  long.  The  north-western  corner  of  the  district  is  about 
.12  miles  S.S.E.  from  Mamboia.     The   highest  mountain,  Msonghi,  is 


582 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  WA-ITUMBA  AND  THE  MANGAUERI, 


nearly  2000  feet  above  the  plain.    Its  top  is  covered  with  some  very 
fine  timber,  hard  and  suitable  for  building  purposes. 

I  fitai-ted  for  this  district  on  .Saturday  morning,  October  2l8t,  with  a 
small  caravan  of  nine  porters  to  carry  my  bed  and  other  necefisaries. 
My  object  in  visiting  these  people  was  chiefly  that  I  might  form  their 
acquaintance  and  impart  to  them  some  Christian  truth.  Thence  I 
intended,  if  possible,  to  go  to  the  Wa-itumba  for  the  same  purpose,  with 
the  secondary  object  of  examining  personally  their  iron-pita,  to  obsotve 
their  manner  of  digging,  cleaning,  and  smcdtiug  the  ore,  also  the  i>roces& 
of  forging  the  native  iron  into  hoes,  &c.  I'ke  sequel  will  show  how  fcr 
I  accomplished  these  objects, 

I  was  accompanied  by  Malundo,  the  son  of  the  Sultan  of  Mamboia,  m 
guide,  and  Majwala  (Dr.  LiTingstone's  boy)  as  cook.  After  descending 
ijito  the  valley  from  my  house,  we  exchanged  a  few  words  with  the 
soldiers  at  the  fort  (simply  an  inclosure  with  a  few  huts  inside),  and 
tlicn  passed  through  a  number  of  gardens  belonging  to  the  Wa-nyam- 
wezi  and  Wa-sagak  in  the  valley.  Then  we  went  over  some  10  miles  of 
undulating  country,  the  higher  parts  of  which  were  oovercd  with 
miyombo  trees ;  the  valleys  abounded  with  bamlx)oe.  Theee  grow  in 
claraj^B  of  from  50  to  400  in  each,  the  clumps  being  bome  15  or  20  fc*t 
apart;  the  length  ranges  from  50  to  80  feet;  the  ordinary  thicknttee 
at  the  ground  is  25^  inches.  I  am  told  that  the  bamboo  produces  a  kind 
of  com  very  similar  to  rice,  and  is  much  oaten  in  time  of  dearth.  After 
passing  these  bamboos  we  came  into  a  little  open  valley  surrounded  by 
hilla  150  to  200  feet  high ;  each  of  these  had  one  or  more  villages  at  its 
tiunimit. 

Mgomba,  the  chief  of  this  district — which  is  called  Kisanga — lives  in 
a  good-sized  village  nut  far  from  the  road.  He  is  the  younger  brother  of 
Seid,  the  Sultan  uf  Mamboia,  and  holds  his  chieftainship  under  him.  We 
made  a  short  halt  at  his  village.  Ho  was  glad  to  see  his  nephew  Malondo, 
as  also  to  give  us  a  good  welcome.  In  the  course  of  conversation  I 
found  that  Mgomba  had  travelled  about  considerably,  especially  amongEt 
the  Wa-gogo,  Wa-humba,  Wa-yombo,  and  Wa-zegnha  tribes,  whose  lan- 
guages he  could  speak  flnoutly.  We  stayed  for  about  half  an  honr,  and 
then  proceeded  on  onr  journey.  Wo  now  passed  several  villages,  and 
every  available  spot  was  cultivated  with  rice,  Indian  and  Kaffir  coma, 
Bwcet  potatoes,  pumpkins,  beans,  tobacco,  &c.  On  leaving  these  villages 
we  entered  upon  a  district^in  which  a  white  man  had  not  been  before, 
and  so  through  the  whole  of  my  journey  until  I  reached  Mamboia  again. 
We  had  now  to  ascend  the  mountains.  Hero,  and  at  other  places  sub- 
sequently visited,  we  found  the  people  very  timid,  and  many  of  them, 
on  seeing  us,  ran  away  to  hide  themselves  in  the  forest.  They  returned, 
however,  laughing  at  their  own  fear,  when  Malundo  called  out  to  them 
to  say  who  we  were. 

About  8.30  we  reached  a  small  village  on  the  top  of  the  mount 


EAST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


583 


to  whioh,  nortli  and  Bonth,  were  two  peaks  rifiing  somo  conaiderablo 
distnnce  above  Tis.  At  this  village,  which  is  called  Monyiunera,  we  put 
up,  intending  to  stay  till  Monday  morning.  The  chief  of  the  vilUge, 
Mwamasi,  and  his  wife  were  absent,  on  a  visit  to  relatives  at  Kife, 
where  a  marriage  ceremony  was  being  celebrated.  The  people  gave  me 
the  chiefs  house  to  live  in,  and  room  was  found  in  the  otiiers  for  my 
men.  After  we  had  rested  we  passed  our  time  very  agreeably  in  con- 
versations with  the  natives. 

I  spent  Sunday  in  visiting  the  villages  round  about,  of  which  there 
ore  several,  and  everywhere  found  ready  listeners.  I  also  ascended  the 
two  peaks  north  and  south  of  the  village  whore  wo  were  staying,  for  the 
purpose  of  looking  over  the  country. 

On  Monday  we  started  again.  On  leaving  we  descended  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  mountain  and  then  skirted  along  its  side  for  some  distance, 
passing  several  good-sized  villages  by  the  way.  Wo  then  went  down 
into  the  valley,  where  there  are  some  four  or  five  more  villages.  Here 
we  stayed  for  about  half  an  hour  to  rest  and  inquire  about  the  road. 
These  were  the  last  Maugaheri  settlements  on  our  route. 

The    Mangalieri   themselves  are   a  quiet,   peaceable   people,   their 
general  character  being  timid  and  fearful.    Occasionally  a  man  with 
spirit  than  others  arises,  and  creates  a  stir  amongst  the  tribe ; 
8uch  a  man  generally  in  a  vcrj^  short  time  becomes  the  chief  of  the 
diatrict.    As  a  rule,  each  district  is  a  little  kingdom  of  itself,  and  has 

stand  by  its  own  strength,  for  neighbouring  districts  seldom  help 
each  other.  When  attacked,  the  men  will  turn  out  with  a  great  noise, 
And  fijo  ofl*  their  long  Tower  flint-lock  guns  without  aim,  but  as  soon 
as  one  of  their  number  is  do-vvn  they  take  to  their  heels  like  hares.  I 
think  this  is  a  characteristic  of  moat  East  African  tribes. 

The  clothing  of  these  people  is  rather  scanty;  still  they  are  in 
advance  of  their  brethren  who  live  in  more  secluded  districts,  for  they 
liave  advanced  out  of  the  skin-wearing  stage,  and  nearly  all  men  and 
women  wear  cloth,  chiefly  a  ghuka  (two  yards)  of  calico.  If  the  women 
wear  skins,  it  is  when  they  are  gardening  or  nursing  thoir  children. 
To  make  uj»  for  their  deficiency  of  clothes^  they  very  frequently  anoint 
themselves  with  a  mixture  of  red  clay  and  oil  (castor-oil  or  animal  fat) : 
this,  they  say,  keeps  them  warm.  Every  man  is  his  o>\ti  builder.  Now 
and  then  a  man  is  met  with  who  knows  something  of  blacksmith's  work. 
This  generally  oonsists  in  being  able  to  forge  hcos,  swords,  hatchets, 
arrow-heads,  spears,  and  other  articles,  some  of  which  are  finished  off 
very  neatly.  I  have  seen  a  native  able  to  mortise  together  a  door  frame, 
of  course  very  roughly.  The  women  do  moat  of  the  gardening.  If  there 
ifi  any  very  rough  bush  cutting,  the  men  do  it.  Men  and  women  work 
together  in  time  of  harvest.  After  han'est  is  over,  the  time  la  chiefly 
spent  in  visiting,  talking,  and  beer  (pomhe)  drinking.  This  latter  is  not 
intoxicating  drink.     I  have  seen  people  sit  and  drink  all  day 


dii 

IF. 

i 

I 


584 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  WA-IT[JMBA  AKD  THE  MANGAHERI, 


long,  and  in  the  evening  tbey  would  be  only  a  little  talkative.  The 
garden  products  are  the  common  cereals  of  East  Africa,  all  of  which  they 
are  able  to  obtain  in  good  quantities. 

The  buildings  of  these  people  are  of  a  compoflite  kind.  They 
generally  build  a  good-sized  tembe  firsf,  inclosing  with  it  a  large  piece 
of  ground  like  a  courtyard.  Tembes  are  built  in  the  following  manner : 
Firsts  the  size  and  position  are  decided  upon,  then  a  row  of  holes  alxmt 
two  feet  apart  is  dug  in  the  ground  about  18  inchca  deep,  tho  whole 
length  of  tho  tembe.  Into  each  of  tht'so  holes,  a  crotched  post  about  fuur 
inches  in  diameter  is  placed,  each  rising  six  feet  above  the  ground  level. 
"When  these  posts  are  set  up,  another  similar  row  of  holes,  parallel  to 
and  about  nine  feet  from  the  former  one,  is  dug,  and  posts  inserted  as  in 
the  former  row ;  a  pole  as  wall-plate  is  then  laid  on  the  top  of  each  row 
of  posts,  and  the  two  rows  of  posts  are  connected  by  poles  extending 
from  one  wall-plate  to  the  other.  The  spaces  between  the  wall  posts 
are  filled  in  with  smaller  wood  and  firmly  bound  together  with  a  wild 
creeper  used  as  rope.  When  the  tombe  is  extra  wide  inside,  another  row 
of  posts  is  set  up  to  support  the  roof  in  the  middle.  After  the  outer 
walls  are  connected  by  the  poles  above,  the  roof  is  formed  by  adding 
a  quantity  of  smaller  posts^  branches  of  trees,  and  grass ;  then,  on  tlio 
top  of  all,  about  two  feet  of  red  clay ;  this  is  put  on  dry  and  beaten 
down.  The  spaces  and  cracks  between  th^  sticks  in  the  walls  are  all 
filled  ui>  witli  wet  red  clay.  The  inside  of  the  room  is  smoothed  off, 
but  the  outside  left  rough.  A  small  doorway,  about  two  feet  wide  ami 
four  feet  high  (sometimes  not  so  large),  is  loft,  and  small  round  holes 
to  look  out  at.  These  are  generally  dirty,  dismal  houses.  I  think  tho 
ordinary  round  huts  (mtsoyigi)  arc  much  cleaner  and  healthier ;  these  are 
so  well  known  that  they  hardly  need  a  description.  After  the  Mangn* 
heri  have  arranged  and  built  their  tembos,  they  fill  up  the  inclosed 
space  with  misongi ;  the  largest  being  genially  built  in  the  centre,  and 
occupied  by  the  chief.  The  household  utensils  are  not  numerous, — a 
pestle  and  mortar,  a  few  fans  to  clean  the  com  %"knth,  bags,  cooking  and 
water  pots,  one  or  two  stools,  and  two  or  three  other  trifling  things 
complete  the  list. 

As  soon  as  wo  left  the  Mangaberi  villages  at  the  foot  of  tho  moun- 
tain, we  crossed  a  small  river  which  comes  from  Nyangalla  and  the 
north  side  of  the  Misonghiro  Hills.  We  journeyed  on  for  about  half 
an  hour,  and  then  crossed  another  small  stream.  This  same  stream  we 
crossed  some  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  an  hour's  march.  Then 
leaving  its  bed,  we  went  on  through  the  forest  till  about  11.80  a.m.,  at 
which  time  we  reached  the  river  which  comes  down  from  Kitangi. 
Having  crossed,  we  rested  for  a  short  time.  Formerly  this  was  a 
populous  and  wellHcultivated  country,  now  there  is  not  a  tem>>e  or 
hut  to  be  seen,  but  everywhere  is  overgrown  with  bamboos  and  brush- 
wood.    From  what  I  can  learn,  1  expect  the  whole  country  has  been 


I 


i 


EAST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


585 


i  twice  within  tho  laat  twenty  years ;  first,  by  Arabs,  or  rather  by 
people  of  the  coast  (Wa-rima)  for  the  Arabs ;  these  made  great  havoc  : 
they  were  probably  assisted  by  the  Wa-Iori,  who  overran  the  whole  of 
U-sagala  some  sixteen  years  ago,  and  sold  the  natives  for  slaves.  The 
remnant  which  remained  or  who  ventured  to  return  home  liavo  now 
been  driven  out  by  the  cowardly  Wa-humba.  I  aay  cowardly,  because  if 
a  dozen  of  them  were  to  meet  with  a  dozen  of  other  men  fairly  armed, 
they  would  not  dare  to  stand  up  in  open  and  fair  fight  with  them,  but  if 
they  saw  one  or  two  men  coming  along  their  path  they  would  all  liide  in 
the  long  grass  until  they  were  quite  ncur»  and  then  all  would  rush  upon 
them  with  a  shout,  stab  them  with  their  spcare,  take  their  cloths,  and  go 
their  way.  This  is  one  way  by  which  the  Wa-humba  destroys  the 
country  wherever  ho  goes.     That  they  are  very  fierce  and  bloodthirsty 

■  tijere  is  no  doubt,  but  there  is  little  or  no  true  bravery  amongst  them. 
After  resting  for  a  short  time  we  started  again,  but  unfortunately 
missed  the  proper  path,  for  tho  district  having  been  forsaken  it  had  become 
grown  up  with  grass  and  bush.     The  road  we  took  bore  us  through  two 

B  long  forests  of  bamboos,  some  of  which  were  very  long.  We  went  on 
until  we  came  to  a  large  river  of  splendid  water.  It  was  some  80  yards 
wide,  and  running  a  swift  stream  of  about  18  inches  deep.     It  takes  its 

B  rise  in  the  Humba  Hills^  some  30  miles  away  to  tho  north.   After  a  short 

^  Test  we  again  passed  through  a  bamboo  forest,  crossed  a  little  stream  of 
ired-oolcured  water,  passed  through  a  long  flat  of  i>ark-likc  ground,  and 
then  came  to  the  district  of  Chiliia,  Here  we  found  sevei-al  villages  and 
tembes,  but  all  of  them,  excepting  two»  on  the  summits  of  two  hills,  were 
forsaken  and  falling  into  niin.  The  owners  bad  been  either  killed  or 
driven  away  by  tho  Wa-h«mba. 

The  chief  of  Chiliia^  Magole  by  name,  was  away  when  we  arrived,  but 
his  people,  as  soon  as  they  saw  that  our  intentions  wero  friendly,  made 
us  very  welcome,  and  gave  us  two  large  rooms  in  the  tembo  for  sleeping 
and  cooking  in.    In  a  short  time  Magole  came,  said  he  was  glad  to  see  us, 

Hand  then  recounted  his  troubles  and  loasea  by  the  raids  of  the  Wa-hnmba. 
He  had  been  to  the  pits  to  buy  some  mndaptt  (cleaned  iron  ore),  and  as 
the  fires  were  already  lighted  in  the  ng'anja  (smelting  house)  he  was  not 
able  to  stay  and  talk,  but  invited  me  to  go  and  see  tho  work.  By  his 
"permission  I  was  able  to  make  a  sketch  of  the  house  and  its  contents. 
I  may  as  well  describe  here  the  whole  process  of  iron-workiug,  from  the 
time  of  its  being  dug  until  it  is  worked  up  into  viagembe  (hoes). 

■  There  are  five  ranges  of  mountains,  the  highest  peaks  of  which  may 
•bo  some  5500  feet  above  sea-level,  lying  between  lat.  0°  30'  and  7°  S.  and 
long,  about  36"  30'  and  37°  E.  These  aE  trend  in  a  S.S.E.  direction, 
having  smaller  hills  jutting  out  from  the  sides  at  right  angles.  These 
are  the  Ilnmba  Hills.  There  are  but  few  large  treos  on  the  mountains 
except  at  the  springs,  tall  coarse  grass  being  the  chief  natural  production. 
The  bills  jutting  from  the  mountain  sides  are  generally  covered  with 
No.  X.— Oct.  1883.]  2  q 


^{>8G 


A  VtSlT  TO  THE  WA-ITUMliA  AND  THE  MASGAHLRI, 


niiyombo  trees,  excepting  in  eucli  places  where  clearings  have  been  miwio 
for  villages  and  gardens.  Between  each  range  of  mountains  there  ia  a 
woll-watered  valley,  varying  in  width  according  to  the  distancea  the  hillt 
jut  out  from  the  mountain  sides.  There  is  one  or  more  Urge  rivers  m 
each  valley,  which  takes  its  rise  near  the  Kummit  of  the  mountaiuii, 
and  is  fed  by  streams  rushing  down  the  valleys  between  the  leader 
hills.  All  the  water  is  of  a  very  pure,  sweet  quality  ;  only  at  one  placv, 
Chilua,  where  the  water  had  to  be  dug  for,  did  we  find  it  brackiab. 
Altogether  those  mountains  form  a  l>eautiful,  healthy,  and  fertile  spot, 
which,  in  the  hands  of  good  native  graziers  and  agriculturists,  could  bv 
made  very  profitable.  There  are,  however,  at  this  time  but  few  peopU 
li\dng  here,  and  they  give  most  of  their  time  t^?  working  iron,  and  almost 
completely  neglect  cattle-keeping  and  agriculture.  On  thia  account 
they  are  very  poor,  for  though  they  have  to  work  night  and  day,  all  the 
produce  of  their  labour  has  ixf  go  for  food. 

From  the  numerous  sites  of  decayed  villages  and  the  many  gaiden* 
still  marked  out  by  the  rows  of  never-dying  plant«dn  trees,  as  well  as  from 
tradition,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  these  mountains  were  rery 
densely  populated  at  some  not  very  remote  time.  I  have  been  told  that 
the  whole  of  this  country  and  that  to  the  north,  including  Mamboia  and 
beyond,  was  overrun  by  the  Wa-luri  some  sixteen  years  ago.  This  would 
quite  agree  with  the  present  stat^  of  the  deserted  villages  and  gardens, both 
in  the  Humba  and  Mamboia  Mountains.  The  natives  were  driven  from 
their  seats  everywhere,  very  many  killed ;  those  taken  prisoners  were 
Bold  as  Blaves  U)  Arabs  and  others.  I  think  it  possible  that  tho  Arabs 
luight  have  been  at  the  bottom  of  it  all,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  Wa-iima, 
incited  tlie  Wa-lori  to  attack  the  country  in  older  to  get  slaves,  Thoso 
who  escaped  were  afraid  to  return  home,  so  wont  and  lived  amongst  tho 
AVa-jombo,  Wa-ngiiru,  and  Wa-zeguha,  who,  when  they  found  that  their 
vifiitoi-s  had  nothing  by  which  to  maintain  themselves,  seized  them  ami 
sold  them  as  slaves  to  tho  ^Va-rima,  Wa-swuhili,  and  others.  By  thieae 
means,  what  was  once  a  i^oworful  tribe  has  now  become  almost  extermin- 
ated. Of  those  remaining,  tho  men  are  of  good  height,  and  strong  muscular 
fellows,  'i'his  is  probably  owing  to  the  toilsome  work  of  blowing  the 
bellows  and  pounding  the  iron  with  heavy  stones.  In  appearance  they 
have  very  much  in  common  with  the  sooty  foundry-men  and  blacksmiths 
of  our  own  ct>untry,  and  as  the  artisan  and  mechanic  at  home  is  generally 
quicker  in  perception,  clearer  in  thought,  and  more  ready  at  wit  than 
the  agriculturist,  so  these  Wa-itumba  irou-smeltera  and  blacksmiths  an? 
far  superior  to  all  tho  surrounding  agricultural  tribes  in  acutoncss, 
ingenuity,  and  banter.  These  men  are  almost  exclusively  en^^od  ia 
working  iron,  that  is,  in  smelting  and  working  up  the  metal  into  hoes. 
The  first  process  is  digging  and  cleansing  the  ore.  This  work  is  generally 
done  by  tho  women.  On  the  hill-sides,  between  the  third  and  »fourth 
ranges  of  mountains,  there  are  three  places  where  the  iron  ore  is  found. 


EAST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


58T. 


.        Iha 


iccording  to  report  and  the  cheapnewi  at  which  hoes  were  formerly 
»ught»  they  must  have  been  far  more  plentiful  than  they  are  at  present, 
Bnd  iron  mtist  have  been  producerl  in  larger  qnantities.  It  is  just  possible 
that  the  natives  formerly  dug  ileupor  into  tho  earth  and  ao  obtained  the 
more  plentifully.  Now  it  seems  tho  pe*j])le  never  dig  beyond  two  feet 
^to  tho  gronnd,  where  there  is  a  layer  of  red  clayey  sand,  in  which  Bmall 
particles  of  ore  are  found.  It  produces  probably  about  five  per  cent-,  of  ore. 
Tho  workings  I  visited,  judging  from  the  broken  nature  of  tho  ground, 
;w©re  probably  on  the  site  of  some  very  old  excavations,  A  little  stream 
water,  some  four  gallons  per  minute,  had  been  brougbt  down  in  a 
tter  to  the  scat  of  work.  Then  a  series  of  little  pits  tad  been  made  in 
row,  each  one  lower  than  the  other.  These  were  about  three  feet  in 
lameter  and  ten  feet  apart.  The  water  from  above  was  guided  so  as 
run  into  each  of  these  pits  successively,  out  of  one  into  the  other, 
'he  sand  containing  tho  ore  is  put  into  tlieso  pits,  and  washed  over  and 
over  nntil  all  the  loose  sandy  matter  has  been  carried  away  by  the  water, 
and  tho  iron  ore  and  small  stones  left  at  tho  bottom.  This  is  then  all 
collected '  out  of  the  water-pans  into  the  sun  to  dry ;  when  dry  it  is 
taken  a  little  at  a  time  to  a  kind  of  fan  (uiufo),  and  fanned  after  the  old- 
fashioned  manner  of  winnowing  com  in  England ;  the  stones  being  lighter 
than  the  small  pellets  of  iron,  they  com©  to  the  front,  and  ao  are  sepa- 
rated. The  stony  part  is  laid  aside,  ready  for  a  further  cleansing.  The 
iron  ore  which  has  been  obtained  is  pot  away  into  bags  made  from  the 
froiids  of  the  fan-leaved  or  date  palm,  and  is  then  ready  to  be  sold  to 
tboeo  who  smelt  it.     In  this  state  the  iron  ore  is  called  inudaj)u. 

The  spot  where  the  mndapu  is  found  is  generally  considered  to  be 
e  property  of  the  chief  of  the  district,  and  he  works  it  with  his  own 
»ple.  Tho  ore  is  sold  at  the  rate  of  its  equivalent  in  bulk  of  clean 
com.  Some  of  tho  buyers  come  a  distance  of  20  miles  or  more ;  these 
take  it  home,  and  the  women  reclean  it  by  the  fanning  process,  and  it 
is  then  ready  for  the  furnace* 

The  next  thing  is  to  prepare  an  abnndance  of  charcoal  for  the  furnace. 
For  this  the  men  of  the  village  go  out  into  tho  forest  and  cut  down  a 
number  of  trees  of  the  kind  required.  These  are  then  cut  into  logs 
some  five  or  six  feet  long,  a  place  is  cleared  on  the  ground,  grass,  small 
sticks  and  branches  are  laid  first,  then  the  logs  are  packed  until  they 
have  built  up  a  pile  some  ten  feet  square  and  six  feet  high.  This  is 
then  lighted  and  carefully  tended  until  all  is  reduced  to  charcoal. 
When  cool  it  is  broken  up  so  that  the  largest  pieces  aro  not  more  than 
two  inches  in  diameter.  This  is  then  packed  in  grass  in  a  very  clever 
manner  and  conveyed  home.  Some  wire-grass,  of  tho  kind  called  lukoka 
(very  much  like  wire-grass  at  home),  is  placed  on  tho  ground,  and  the 
eliarcoal  heaped  upon  it ;  then  the  ends  of  the  grass  are  drawn  together 
and  tied,  after  which  the  whole  bundle  is  bound  together  with  a  creeping 

2  Q  2 


^^1 


588 


A  VISIT  TO  T1I£  WA-lTUilBA  AND  THE  MANGAnEni, 


plant  UBcd  as  a  cord.  In  tbis  manner  it  is  carried  home  to  the  v^t 
The  viudapn  and  mnJcala  (charcoal)  Leing  ready,  the  next  thing  i«  tul 
arrange  the  pipes  (kehm)  and  the  hellows  (^nuvukuto).  The  pipes  arc  madd] 
of  clay»  moulded  on  a  bamboo  (layipami).  They  are  about  2^  inches  ia-j 
diameter  and  five  feet  long,  and  have  a  lip  round  one  end,  thus  re^-l 
Bemhling  water-pipes  made  at  home,  with  which,  though  perhap«  they  J 
are  not  so  neatly  finished,  they  will  bear  a  very  good  comparison.  Th 
bellows  are  made  of  wood,  with  a  tube  of  the  Bame  material ;  the  topi 
being  covered  with  a  piece  of  skin  with  a  stick  as  handle  projecting* 
from  the  centre.  Where  these  are  arranged,  there  a  fire  is  made  in  tho 
centre  of  the  pit;  as  soon  as  the  fire  is  sufiicientl}'"  fierce,  a  donble 
handful  of  ore  (mudapu)  is  taken,  and  dropped  lightly  into  the  fire, 
ibllowed  by  charcoal ;  when  this  is  fairly  through  with  red  heat  motra 
charcoal  is  put  on  the  fire,  followed  by  two  double  handfuls  of  mudapn, 
and  this  is  covered  with  a  little  more  charcoal.  The  furnace  is  now  in 
working  order,  and  about  every  twenty  minutes  more  charcoal,  iron  ore^^H 
and  charcoal  are  added.  The  proportion  is  generally  about  two  double  ^1 
handfule  of  iron  ore  to  eight  of  charooal.  An  incessant  blowing  ia 
kept  up  from  three  sets  of  bellows  by  a  man  and  a  boy  at  each  bellowB, 
where  they  work  in  turns.  This  i»  maintained  from  the  time  tho  firo 
is  lighted  until  all  the  iron  ore  is  jmt  into  tho  furnace.  Towanls  tbe 
end  of  the  smelting  they  diminish  the  amount  of  iron  ore  they  put  in 
and  add  more  charcoal.  As  tho  heap  of  iron  ore  and  charcoal  in- 
creasos  in  size  in  tho  furnace,  the  pipes  from  tho  l>ellow8  have  to 
be  raised  so  as  to  be  kept  just  below  the  surface  of  the  fiery  maa. 
When  all  tho  iron  ore  is  melted  the  furnace  is  left  for  about  half  an 
hour,  after  which  time  two  or  three  earthen  pots  (mahiga)  of  water  u 
thrown  over  the  mass.  Tho  loaae  charcoal  is  then  removed  from  around 
the  lump  of  iron,  aud  a  strong  cord  made  of  kongi  grass  is  passed  round 
it,  with  which  it  is  hanlcd  out  of  the  pit  and  left  to  cool.  In  this  state  tha 
iron  i«  very  much  like  a  large  lump  of  blacksmith's  ''  hards."  Generally 
these  lumps  are  from  15  to  18  inches  in  diameter,  and  2  feet  to  2  feei 
tJ  inches  in  length.  After  being  taken  from  the  pit  the  lumps  may  be  left 
for  any  length  of  time  before  the  process  is  carried  further.  Generally  a 
number  of  lumps  are  made  as  a  stock  to  work  from.  When  ready,  the  lunijn 
are  broken  up  with  an  iron  hammer,  made  by  tho  native  blacksmith,  into 
little  pieces,  none  of  them  larger  than  a  walnut.  This  is  then  resmeltfil 
in  another  furaace  which  is  served  with  only  one  set  of  bellows.  A  fira 
of  charcoal  is  made  in  tho  pit,  when  sufficiently  hot  about  two  handfata 
of  iron  is  dropped  in  with  a  little  charcoal,  when  this  is  nielted  moro 
iron  ie  added  gmduaUy,  until  about  8  or  10  lbs.  have  l>een  put  in,  then 
this  is  covered  with  charcoal  and  heated  until  the  iron  has  become  a 
fairly  compact  mass.  When  it  ia  well  melted,  and  the  charooal  ammgtt 
the  iron  consumed,  tho  outer  charcoal  is  iK>kod  away  with  a  short  green 
stick,  tho  lump  of  iron  is  seized  with  a  large  pair  of  tongs  and  convereJ 


I 


EAST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


689 


to  the  anvil,  where  a  man  stands  ready  to  pound  it  together  into  a 
■quaro  solid  mass.  The  anvil  is  a  large  stono,  from  the  apj>earance  of 
which  one  might  judj^e  it  had  been  used  for  years.  The  hammer  is  a 
lump  of  iron  a^jout  2^  inches  square  and  five  inches  lonj^,  with  a  hole  in 
the  middle  for  inserting  a  handle.  The  iron  is  now  ready  for  the  black- 
smith, who  is  generally  the  chief  of  Ixjth  the  village  and  the  smelting- 
hoQse. 

Though  the  iron  has  been  smelted  twice,  it  is  still  very  porous,  80 
that  the  blacksmith  has  firat  to  heat  the  lump  very  hot»  then  holding  it 
with  hie  large  tongs,  has  to  pound  it  into  a  raoro  solid  mass  with  a  largo 
stone.  The  spike  part  of  the  hoe  is  then  hammered  out  from  one  end 
of  the  lump,  and  then  the  blade  from  the  other  part.  All  the  pcmnding 
is  done  with  diSerent  sized  stones,  except  the  last  finishing  touches. 
The  hoes  vary  in  size,  according  to  the  lump  of  iron  from  which  they 
are  made.  The  largest  are  about  eight  inches  acrosa  the  blade.  The 
hoes  a:-o  used  by  inserting  the  spike  through  a  hole  in  the  end  of  a 
handle  about  five  feet  long. 

All  the  blacksmith's  work  is  done  out  in  the  open  air ;  the  smelting 
18  done  in  a  house  externally  very  similar  in  shape  to  the  ordinary 
round  hut,  excepting  that  the  roof  is  very  steep  and  high.  This  length 
of  roof  is  probably  for  the  purpose  of  giving  a  good  draught  to  the 
furnace.  The  side  walls  of  the  house  are  about  five  feet  high,  of  sticks 
and  trees,  the  spaces  between  which  are  not  plastered  with  mud  but  left 
open  so  that  there  may  be  a  free  ingress  of  air.  Some  ng  anja  have  the 
roof  sloping  down  to  the  ground,  but  these  are  not  considered  so  good  as 
the  kind  just  descril»ed.  The  above  information  (excepting  the  matter 
of  digging  and  cleaning,  which  I  obtained  up  in  the  mountains  where 
the  digging  and  washing  were  going  on)  I  learnt  by  personal  observation 
and  questioning  at  Chilua,  from  Magole  the  chief.  He  seemed  a.  verj- 
intelligent,  hard-working  man,  and  well  disposed  towards  strangers. 
By  his  kindness  I  had  a  house  to  sleep  in,  a  fowl  for  my  supper,  gained 
the  infoi-mation  I  wanted,  and  had  some  friendly  conversation  with  the 
people  in  the  tembe,  which  I  trust  may  bo  as  profitable  to  them  as  it  was 
pleasing  to  me. 

At  6.30  on  Tuesday  morning  I  and  my  party  started  again  to  go  up 

I 'into  the  Hiimba  Hills.  We  had  first  to  descend  into  a  large  valley 
rwhich  extends  for  a  considerable  distance  to  the  south.  We  went  on  for 
llwo  hours  through  forest  and  bamboo  groves  till  we  came  to  a  good- 
Wzed  river  of  clear  water.  This  was  a  boon  after  the  horrid  stuff  wo  had 
Jiad  to  drink  yesterday.  The  river  was  about  15  yards  wide,  with  a 
stream  flowing  rather  briskly  about  12  inches  deep.  Having  crossed 
this  river,  which  takes  its  rise  near  the  north-west  end  of  the  central 
range  of  hills,  we  came  upon  the  skeleton  of  an  elephant  which  had 
recently  l»eon  killed  :  I  took  its  teeth  (not  tusks)  to  Mamboia  as  a 
memento  of  the  journey.     Here  there  were  the  marks  of  plenty  of  game. 


5<ro 


A  VISIT  TO  THE  WA-ITUMBA  AND  THE  MANGAHEKI, 


the  country  being  "rtrell  suited,  it  being  flat,  grassy,  and  without  any 
human  inhabitants  near.  Thenco  we  went  on  to  a  village  of  Makm» 
where  we  rested  fur,  about  an  hour.  Thence  we  went  on  to  a  Dg'anja 
and  village  on  the  peak  uf  a  hOl.  On  our  way  we  passed  several  ng'aujiL 
where  the  work  was  going  « :»n.  The  countiy  through  which  we  Tptuaeik 
tct-day  was  a  littlo  rough  in  places,  but  on  the  whole  easy.  It  was  ik 
gradual  ascent  up  into  the  mountains.  On  our  way  we  passed  maii^r' 
sites  of  deserted  villages  and  banana  trees,  which  indicated  that  formerly 
there  were  gardens  there.     There  are  not  many  large  trees  in  the  wbolo 

( of  the  country.  Great  quantities  of  timi>er  are  used  every  year  a» 
charcoal  for  the  work  of  the  ng'anja,  and  so  by  this  means  tho  country  is 
kept  very  bare.  There  is  a  lovely  valley,  through  which  two  large  streams 
of  good  water  flow :  if  cultivated  it  would  make  most  fertUe  and  pn:- 
duotivo  gardens.  The  natives  are  so  few  in  number,  that  they  aro  able- 
to  cultivate  only  a  titho  of  this  good  land.  Their  iron  work  only  pn>> 
hibita  them  from  doing  much,  as  they  otherwise  might.  At  the  vilUga 
where  wo  stopped  the  people  were  very  kind  to  us,  in  giving  ua  hooaea 
to  sleep  in  and  sugar-cane  to  eat ;  they  were  poor,  and  not  able  to  give  tit 

,  anything  else.  At  this  place  I  had  a  touch  of  toothache,  resulting,  I 
think,  from  tho  use  of  bad  water  at  Chilua ;  I  have  several  times  been 
aflfected  with  toothache  after  using  brackish  water.  This  kept  me  from 
making  myself  as  familiar  with  the  people  as  I  would  have  done. 

The  next  morning,  Wednesday,  we  started  about  7  a.ji.  We  bad  a 
long  steep  climb  up  a  bare  hill  with  a  ng'anja  on  its  t<ip.  It  took  aboat 
two  hours  to  reach  its  top.  We  wore  fairly  tired  when  we  reached  liie 
summit,  and  glad  of  a  rest.     Tho  men  of  tho  village  were  all  far  awmy 

kfrom  home  burning  charcoal;  the  women  were  at  the  iron-pits  cloa» 
l)y  digging  and  cleaning  the  ore.  Some  men  had  just  arrived  from  a 
distance  to  make  purchases  of  ore  with  com ;  the  exchange  was  quickly 
effected,  and  then  wo  examined  what  was  going  on.  There  was  a  chie£ 
woman  and  some  twenty  others  under  her,  some  digging,  others  washing, 
cleansing,  and  fanning  the  ore.  The  process  has  already  been  deacribed. 
Here  I  was  able  to  obtain  a  little  of  the  sand  with  ore  before  washed^ 
and  a  little  of  tho  washed  ore.  The  chief  woman  object^  at  first, 
thinking  I  wanted  to  make  some  kind  of  witchcraft  medicine,  by  which 
to  destroy  tho  working  of  her  pits,  but  after  a  little  talk  she  consented  to 
my  request.  Wo  then  went  on  climbing  up  and  up  until  we  reached 
nearly  the  top  of  the  highest  peak.  Ilere  wo  came  to  a  remarkable 
place  called  "  Tetemeko,"  ekaking.  It  is  really  a  lako  or  reservoir  lying 
between  the  peaks  of  two  hiUs.  Its  length  is  about  three-quartere  of  a 
mUe,  and  in  breadth  varj-ing  from  200  to  800  yards.  It  is  covered  sU 
over  with  a  great  thicknciis  of  wire-gross  strongly  interwoven  together. 
BO  that  one  can  walk  with  safety  along  its  edge,  although  at  the  same 
time  it  dances  up  and  down  as  if  upon  a  spring.  At  the  end  at  whioh 
wo  first  arrived  a  stream  of  water  slowly  flowed  out,  beautifully  clear, 


EAST  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


591 


^ 


^K>ce: 


I 


cold,  and  gcwiid.  Away  it  went  nisliing'  down  the  mountain  side,  and  was 
lost  from  our  view  in  a  thicket  of  trees ;  near  the  further  end  and  on  tho 
ipposit©  side  I  saw  a  tree  with  large  lil/ic-ct»lonred  flowers.  I  essayed 
go  across  to  sec  what  they  were  like,  but  boom  found  it  was  too 
lotis  a  matter.  There  are  several  stories  of  people  ha\'ing  lost 
ttieir  lives  at  this  place. 

Near  by  there  are  a  few  spots  of  good  ground,  but  I  am  told  that 
natives  would  never  build  or  cultivate  there,  as  the  place  is  looked  upon 
jlvith  gnperstitioua  dread.     Leaving  this  place,  we  crossed  the  crest  of 

IB  mountain,  and  began  to  descend  a  defile  on  the  eastern  side.  Hero  1 
6ame  upon  a  fine  lot  of  ripe  blackberries,  which  I  did  not  leave  till  they 
ttrore  all  gathered.  Consiilering  the  scarcity  of  fruit  in  Africa,  they  were 
a  great  trtat,  but  more  especuilly  so  as  reminding  one  of  home.  On  we 
went  down  the  mountain  side  for  about  an  hour,  when  we  came  to  a 
little  village  and  a  spring  of  clear  water.  The  natives  had  here  very 
ingeniously  put  the  whole  of  this  water  to  very  good  use.     About  half 

milo  lower  down  the  hill  there  was  a  ngauja  and  village.  A  ditch  had 
m  dug  about  a  foot  wide,  and  tlie  water  was  guided  down  so  as  to 
Eupply  the  wants  of  the  workmen  and  the  village.  The  gardens  between 
the  ^aiag  and  the  lower  village  were  well  irrigated,  so  that  at  the  time 
we  passed  there  wore  several  acres  of  splendid  green  Indian  com  fit  for 
n«e.  The  spare  water  was  still  carried  on  and  irrigated  gardens  lower 
down  the  hill.  This  is  the  Ixjst  piece  of  irrigation  I  have  seen  in  Africa. 
Pkeaing  on  we  came  to  several  villages.  The  people  living  here  engage 
in  iron  work,  but  give  more  time  to  agriculture  than  those  living  on  the 
other  side  of  the  mountain,  and  are  therefore  much  better  off.  Wo  now 
came  to  a  thickly- wooded  country  with  hero  and  there  a  clear  spot 
where  a  village  hiid  formerly  stood.  At  last  wo  reached  the  valley  and 
crossed  over  a  river  about  20  feet  wide  and  three  feet  deep.  It  was  very 
good  water.  The  valley  hero  is  very  narrow.  Wo  ascended  the  other 
aid©  and  went  on  through  wooded  country  for  about  half  an  huour,  at 
which  time  wo  came  to  a  large  village  inclosed  by  a  tembe.  Here  wo 
put  up  for  the  night.  The  natives  had  not  had  a  European  visitor 
before,  so  there  was,  as  is  usual  in  a  large  village,  considerable  commo- 
tion among  the  younger  members  of  the  community  ;  they  were,  how- 
ever, quickly  pacified.  When  we  were  fairly  settled  some  men  brought 
us  three  loads  of  good  sugar-cane,  for  which  I  gave  them  two  yards  of 
eloth.     This  I  divided  between  my  men,  the  donkey,  and  royfetelf. 

We  were  up  and  ready  by  G  a.m.  tho  next  morning,  and  having  bid 
farewell  to  our  friends  we  started  for  Mamboia.  Tho  road  was  very 
rough,  ascending  and  descending.  At  8  a.m.  wo  reached  two  large 
villages,  where  we  rested  for  a  while.  Thence  we  wont  on  over  the 
same  kind  of  rough  road  until  we  camo  to  tho  large  village  of  Futu, 
who  is  the  chief  of  all  this  district.  Futu  was  not  at  homo,  but 
Sanyagwa,  another  chief,  with  his  own  men  and  some  of  Futu's  came 


592 


A  \'IS1T  TO  THE  WA-ITDMBA,  ETC. 


out  to  see  me;  Imt  as  Sanyagwa  was  slightly  affected  by  pombft- 
drinktug  I  stayed  but  a  short  time.  Leaving  here  we  descended  into 
the  valley^  crossed  the  river  which  comes  from  Kitangi,  passed  orer 
another  range  of  hrllB,  and  then  descended  into  the  Mamboia  valley  or 
plain.  ThiM  is  divided  into  a  number  of  distriuts  with  diBtinct  namoi; 
each  hiifi  a  separate  chief,  who  is  more  or  less  subject  to  the  chief 
of  Mambfjia.  At  the  foot  of  this  last  range  of  hills  we  entered  a  kind  of 
baain ;  the  Ixittom  w^as  quite  flat,  a  mile  long  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
wide.  It  was  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  hills,  and  on  one  side  by 
slightly  rising  ground.  By  its  shape  and  general  appearance  it  looks 
as  if  it  might  formerly  have  been  a  small  lake.  Leaving  this  suppoaod 
lake  we  went  on  over  undulating  ground  till  we  came  ont  at  the 
Wanyamwezi's  villages  ;  thence  w©  went  on  past  the  fort  (so-called)  tip 
to  onr  own  mountain  home,  at  which  place  we  arrived  at  about  2.30  p.m, 

I  have  not  »aid  much  about  the  social  customs  of  the  Wa-itumba,  aa 
they  differ  but  little  from  those  of  the  lilangaheri.  There  is  thia 
drfference  which  I  may  mention,  the  Wa-itnnxba  in  the  motin tains  do  not 
use  tembes  as  dwellings,  but  simply  build  their  round  huts  on  the  open 
tops  of  hills.  I  may  have  more  to  say  about  their  notions  of  God  and 
religion  generally^  their  social  customs  concerning  deaths,  marriages, 
&c.,  at  some  future  time. 

I  tlunk  I  meotioiied  in  a  former  commuuicAtion  the  remarkable 
manner  in  which  the  East  African  tribes  are  broken  up,  so  as  to  form 
nation,  tribe,  and  family  or  house.  The  Sagala  nation :  thia  nation  hu 
a  number  of  tribes,  of  vrhich  the  Megi  ia  one.  The  Megi  tribe  ij 
divided  up  into  houses  or  families  (knnju^u),  of  which  the  Wa-ijumbo 
(the  ruling  fiiniily)  is  one  and  the  Wa-isongo  is  another-  Each  of  theeo. 
and  of  all  other  families  of  the  tribe,  has  a  distinctive  crest  (iolo),M 
the  lion,  buffalo,  kite,  pigeon,  snake,  or  a  certain  tree  ;  as  the  Wa-ijumbe 
of  the  l)uffalo,  and  the  Wa-isongo  of  the  snake.  Sometimes  a  family  or 
house  (kungngii)  is  subdivided,  then  each  suljdivision  takes  a  distinctivti 
crest  (kolo). 


(593    ) 


Beport  on  Admiralty  Surveys  for  the  Tear  1882.     By  the  Hydr(^raplier, 
Captain  Sir  Frederick  J,  O.  Evans,  r.n.,  k.c.b.,  f.r.8.* 

TuE  following  ships  or  war  have  been  employed  during  the  year  1882  on  surveying 
duties  on  foreign  stations : — 


Home-power 
(Iiidlcated). 


Tonnage 

(Wel«ht  In 

Tons). 


OfBcen  and  Men. 


Steam  Vessels: 

Aiert — Indian  Ocean 

[Paid  out  of  Commission  September  1882] 
Fawn— Bed  Sea;   Shoal  hanka  in  Indian  Ocean, 

Delagoa  Bav  and  South-west  Coast,  Madagascar. 
Flying  /YsA— South  Coast  of  Japan,  West  Coast  of 

Korea        

Magpie — East  Coast  of  Japan,  South  Coast  of  Korea 
Sylvia — Bio  de  la  Pkta,  Strait  of  Magellan    . .      . . 

'    Saiuxg  Vessels: 

JSmard— Fiji  Islands 

Sparrovhavok — ^West  Indies  (Bahamas) 

Zori — Solomon  Islands      ♦ 


310 


480 
840 

am 

690 


Schooner 
ditto 


ditto 


1210 


1050 

940 
805 

8G5 


120 


12G 

113 
113 
111 


120  28 

86     I  24 

I  (including  20 
hired  men) 
180  85 


There  have  also  been  engaged  qn  surveying  operations  the  hired  steam  vessel 
Gtilnare  on  the  coasts  of  Newfoundland ;  and  the  sailing  schooner  Meda  on  the 
coasts  of  Western  Australia,  that  colony  bearing  a  moiety  of  the  expense.  Tho 
jyitoUf  a  new  steam  vessel,  manned  with  seamen  of  the  Boyal  Navy,  has  replaced 
the  Porcupine  for  service  on  the  coasts  of  the  United  Kingdom.  The  hired  steam 
vessel  Knight  Errant  has  been  engaged,  as  heretofore,  chiefly  on  the  west  coast  of 
£ngland  and  east  coast  of  Ireland. 

The  number  of  oflScers  of  all  ranks  employed  in  the  several  vessels  above- 
mentioned,  amounts  to  76,  and  their  crews  to  582 ;  these  numbers  are  exclusive  of 
the  crew  of  the  Aiert. 

Cocuta  of  the  United  Kingdom. — Early  in  May  the  Triton^  a  newly  built  paddle- 
wheel  steam  vessel  of  410  tons,  and  370  horse-power,  was  commissioned  by  Staff 
Commander  Tizard  to  replace  the  Porcupine^  a  similar  class  of  vessel,  which  had 
been  employed  for  many  years  in  surveying  duties  on  the  coasts  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  but  now  worn  out. 

During  the  year  that  officer  and  his  assistants  have  re-sounded  the  anchorage 
within  the  breakwater  at  Alderney ;  the  approaches  to  Cowes,  in  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
and  the  foreshore  of  Southsea  beach,  Portsmouth  Harbour.  In  the  estuary  of  the 
Thames,  Tantlet  Flat,  Jenkins  Swatch,  and  the  edge  of  Maplin  Sand,  have  been 
re-sounded,  and  also  the  deep  water  channel  "  Duke  of  Edinburgh "  (formerly 
known  as  **  Bullock  Channel  **),  which  has  been  recently  buoyed  for  the  use  of 
vessels  of  large  draught  frequenting  the  Port  of  London. 

Off  the  east  coast  of  S(K)tland,  between  Montrose  and  Einnaird  Head,  six  sectional 
lines  of  soundiogs  were  obtained ;  the  soundings  being  carried  to  a  distance  of 


From  the  Parliamentary  Beport,May  8,  1883. 


594 


REPORT  OX  ADSUHALTV  SdRVEYS  FOR  THE  YEAR  ISSi 


100  miles  from  the  shore.  This  service  was  executed  for  the  verification  of  rftrimw 
Boundiugs  recorded  on  existing;  charts,  the'authority  of  which  could  not  be  inoeA, 
as  welt  as  to  aaceitnin  the  prevailing  nature  of  the  sea-bottom,  this  area  being  uradj 
frequented  by  fishermen.  It  has  led  to  the  revision  of  numcron*  errtmeous  depth*. 
Temperature  observations,  l)0lh  of  the  sea  surface  and  bottom,  were  at  the  maw 
ttmo  made,  with  the  general  result  that  while  from  the  shore  to  a  distance  of  25  miln^ 
the  bottom  temperature  did  not  fall  more  than  from  2i°  to  4°  P.  below  thai  of  the 
•surface;  at  the  distance  of  50  roiles,  the  differences  ranged  from  2J**  to  11*  F.,  ud 
from  thence  to  100  miles,  from  o°  to  8°  F.  The  surface  temperature  over  the  whole 
area  sounded  varied  from  52=*  to  60'  F.,  and  the  bottom  temperature  from  40* '5  to 
5y*'B  F.,  the  surface  temperature  inshore  being,  as  a  rule,  lower  than  that  in  the 
distant  oflfing.    The  bottom  for  the  most  part  was  found  to  consist  of  fine  Rand. 

PMceedJng  northward,  several  soundings  were  obtained    in    the    immodiiU 
Beighhourhoodl  of  Fair  lale,  off  the  north  coast  of  Scotland.     From  th-  rt  of 

July  until  the  middle  of  September,  the  Triton  was  engaged  in  oh'  ■  ,;  ond- 
ini^s  and  sea  temperatiu-es  at  sitrfaoe  and  bottom,  with  occasional  dredging  in  the 
Faoroe  Channel :  this  eervice  was  'performed  at  the  request  of  the  Boyal  Society,  in 
continuation  of  similar  observations  made  in  tlie  year  18S0,  to*  which  ttttentioo 
was  drawn  in  my  report  for  that  year.  The  opportunity  was  also  embraced  of 
testing  pressure  gauges  at  a  depth  of  1400  fathoms,  about  100  miles  from  the 
north-west  coast  of  Ireland,  for  the  verification  of  deep-sea  thermometers. 

Whilst  these  investigations  of  the  sea  temperatures  and  the  distribution  of  th» 
imntk  in  the  warm  aud  cold  areas  of  deep  water  in  thin  cliannel  were  proceeding 
(which  may  now  be  oonaidcred  as  completed),  two  gentlemen,  Mr.  John  Murray,  fjlsjl, 
and  Professor  Chrystal,  of  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  were,  at  the  instance  of  tie 
Boya!  Society,  embarked  in  the  Triton  to  carry  out,  conjointly  with  the  officer" 
commanding,  the  necessary  scientific  obsen'ations. 

West  Cftttst  of  Kjigtand.—Stnfl  Commander  Archdeacon  and  his  swrveylog  jastf 
ill  the  Knight  Errant  have,  in  Wales,  re-sonndetl  Milford  Haven  teaward  of  Pembrokt ' 
Beach  (the  last  examination  having  been  m?.de  in  1852-4),  together  with  the 
S^iroeches  to  the  shore  line,  extending  from  Sheep  Island  to  St.  Goven's  Head. 
Proceeding  to  the  coast  of  Lancashire,  the  entrance  to  the  river  Ribble,  as  also  tbt  i 
approaches  to  the  shore,  extending  from  Formby  to  Fleetwood,  have  been  re<«oBnded 
to  meet  changes  in  the  shoal  grounds. 

Taking  up  necessary  work  on  the  east  coost  of  Ireland,  the  approaches  to  Wexford 
Harbour,  including  Wexford  SSouth  Bay,  and  tlic  off-lyitig  btinks  Lucifer,  New 
Ground,  Long  Bank,  and  Holden^s  Bod  have  been  re-examined.  Kingstoa  Harbour 
was  alrto  surveyed  in  detail  in  consequonco  of  changes  in  depths. 

Wtft  Judiea. — The  survey  of  that  part  of  the  Little  Bahama  Bank,  aituated 
between  Elbow  Cay  lighthouse  and  Pensacola  Cay,  commenced  late  in  1881  by 
Lieutenant  White  in  the  sailing  schooner  Spairoivfiaivk,  is  reported  to  be  nearly 
completed.  The  progress  of  this  survey  was  somewhat  retardeii  by  the  renel 
requiring  extensive  repairs,  which  necessitated  her  going  to  Bermuda. 

JVei^oufw/iiiad— Staff  Commander  Maxwell  and  party,  in  the  hired  steaaMT 
Gidnarct  have,  after  some  years'  constant  employment  on  the  west  and  northsm 
shores  of  Newfoundland,  been  transferred  to  the  south  coast,  llie  northern  portion 
of  Fortune  Bay,  with  its  many  indentations  from  Connaigre  Head  eastward  to  EagU 
Point,  together  with  enlarged  plans  of  Breton  and  Femme  harbours,  have  been 
comjileted  in  ample  detail 

Swth  America.— Bio  de  la  Pht<t.— Magellan  Strait,^The  St/lvia  waa  com- 
missioned by  Captain  Wharton  in  March,  and  in  May  left  Kugland  for  sunrcyiDg 
operations  at  the  entrance  to  the  Bio  de  la  Plata,  and  in  the  Stmt  of  Magclkn. 


UEPORT  OS  ADMIRALTT  SUnVKYS  FOB  THE  YEAR  1882. 


695 


I 


I 


hen  approaching  the  coast  of  Brazil,  near  the  Albrolhoa  Baoks,  the  lead  w»a 

¥0pt  goiDg  in  depths  varying  from  *J0  to  120  fathoms;  this  resulted  ia  finding  a 
mnaU  coral  bank,  hitherto  uncharted,  with  46  fathoms,  in  latitudo  20^  1'.  soalhk  and 
kmgitude  37^  81'  west.  On  nearing  Monte  Video  opportunity  was  taken  of  verifying 
the  positions  of  the  lighthouses  on  Capes  Santa  Maria  and  Polonio.  The  survey  of 
the  entratioe  to  Kio  de  la  Plata  comtuonced  with  an  cxamiuatiijo  of  English  Bank 
and  the  extensive  8h<jal  grounds  stretching  from  it  eastward,  westward,  and  south- 
ward ;  barriers  to  navigatiun  occupying  so  much  of  the  entrance  to  this  great  estuary. 
Although  operations  were  retarded  by  ifrcvalcnt  strot^  winds,  raiu  and  fog»,  iilugUsh, 
Bank  and  its  extensive  shoal  ground  under  a  depth  of  three  fiilhoms,  together  with 
the  shallow  Archimodos  Bank,  have  been  accurately  delineated. 

The  area  sounded  over,  in  extension  of  the  above,  amountod  to  1100  square  miles 
coraprued  between  3o^  5'  and  35''  40'  south  latitude,  55^  30'  and  56*^  20'  west  longi-» 
iadei  This  examination  has  disproved  the  existence  of  many  shoal  sjwta  reiiorted 
to  the  sonth  and  also  east  of  English  Bank.  In  the  progiea*  of  the  survey  detailed 
plans  were  made  of  the  anchorage  at  Fiorcs  lilaod,  OBacJtfQDte  Yidfio,,  and  ahio  o£ 
llaldonado  Bay,  »..,•.  v-    ,.i;-; 

Leaving  the  Bio  de  la  Plata  early  in  October,  an  examination  of  parts  of  Mogellaa 
Strait,  to  connect  with  the  surveys  of  former  years,  was  commenced.  In  this  service 
the  Sr/lvtn  Avaa  chiefly  employed  near  the  western  entrance  of  the  strait  in  Sea  Besch, 
completing  much  of  the  ncoessary  triangulation,  and  ooaat-line  to  the  extent  of  about 
100  miles.  Search  waH  made  for  a  dangerous  rock,  reported  in  1881  as  situated 
about  half-a-milc  to  the  south-east  of  St.  Jerome  Point,  between  English  and  Crooked 
reaches ;  a  shoal  of  18  feet,  marked  by  kdp,  was  found  in  the  (airway,  about  one 
mile  to  the  westward  of  the  reported  danger,  which  is  doubtless  the  sam«. 

The  surTeyiog  work  in  MageUan  Strait  was  in  active  progress  at  the  end  of  the 
year  1882. 

Jied  Bea. — Ddagoa  Bap, — Madttgatcar. — The  Fawn,  under  Comjuaoder  Aldrich, 
in  continuation  of  the  survey  commenced  in  1881,  was  engaged  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  Bed  Sea  during  the  early  months  of  the  year. 

The  Hdmiah  Isl.tnds  group  having  been  cooapleted,  an  nizhaustive  survey  of  tho 
off-lying  i^ioala  at  Mokli^,  as  also  tho  roadstead,  vnx&  made,  followed  by  a  detailed 
aurvey  of  the  Zebdyir  Islonds.  Jebel  TeYr  was  abo  visited,  and  soundings  taken 
aronnd  it.  Some  activity  was  going  on  in  this  volcanic  island,  as  hot  vajxnir  was 
observed  rising  from  small  fissures  and  cracks,  and  sulphur  was  found  on  ita 
summit.  Several  chronoraetrical  (li-stances  were  measured,  connecting  Jebel  Teir, 
Zebayir  Islands,  Ht^ideTdab,  Mukba,  with  each  other  and  with  Aden  s^^^Aden  itself 
"being  connected  in  longitude  with  Grroenwich  Obeervatory  by  electric  telegraph. 

Leaving  the  Bed  Sea  early  in  May,  the  Fount  proceedsd  to  Mauritius,  and  on  the 
passage  cirried  a  line  of  soundings  in  addition  to  the  work  of  1881,  across  the  south- 
•astern  edge  of  Saya  de  Mallm  Bank.  Mauritius  was  reached  early  in  June,  and 
after  a  few  days'  detention  for  the  purpose  of  being  docked,  the  vessel  arrived  at 
Delagoa  Bay  towards  the  end  of  the  moutlu  Taking  up  some  of  tlio  useful  work 
commenced  in  1881,  Cockburn  Channel,  tho  m&in  south  entrance  into  Delagoa  Bay, 
was  closely  sounded,  and  also  a  part  of  Port  Melvillo ;  search  %vhs  made  for  the  Natal 
and  Assyria  shoals  within  the  buy,  but  without  success  ;  Natal  Shoal  has  beeu  ex« 
punged  from  the  chart.  The  coast-line  of  Elephjint  Island  ^-ith  the  nortii  part  of 
Inyack  Island,  was  accurately  charted,  and  connected  with  Reuben  Point  Light- 
house at  the  Portugnese  settlement  of  Lorenzo  Marques.  In  tho  oifing,  Danae  Beef 
was  examined  and  its  position  aiccunitcly  determined  in  relatbn  to  Cape  Inyaok. 

Proceeding  to  Simons  Bsy,  Capo  of  Good  Hope,  the  vessel  underwent  a  thorough 
refit,  preparatory  to  embarking  the  instnnnents  and  astronomcra  sent  from  England 


to  observe  the  transit  of  Veuus^  in  Madagascar.  Leaving  the  Cape  early  in  October 
on  this  service,  the  ship  anchored  off  Nattil  for  the  purpose  of  comparing  her  chrooo* 
meters  by  electric  telegraph  with  Cape  Town  Observatory.  St.  Augustine  Bay,  on 
the  south-west  side  of  Madagascar,  the  place  selected  for  observing  the  tnuisit,  wu 
reached  towards  the  end  of  October,  and  after  establishing  the  observers  with  all  tha 
requisite  appliances  on  the  small  island  Nos  Vey,  a  survey  of  the  locality  was  cook 
menced.  This  survey  embraced  the  southern  approach  to  St.  Augustine  Bav, 
including  Nos  Vey,  and  its  friendly  anchorage  taken  up  by  the  Fawn  for  the  purpoKi 
of  the  transit,  it  thence  extended  to  the  south  entrance  of  TuUear  Bay. 

On  the  completion  of  the  necessary  astronomical  observations  connected  with  the 
transit  of  Venus,  the  Fawn  sailed  imraediately  for  Natal,  to  again  obtain  chrono- 
inetricAl  coraj>arison8  with  Q,^\y&  Town  Observatory,  in  order  to  determine  with  the 
greatest  possible  precision  the  meridian  distance  between  that  observatorj*  and  N« 
Vey.  Comm.inder  Aldrich  reports  that  this  exjiedition  in  the  interests  of  aatroQ»> 
inical  science  wi«  highly  successful,  the  transit  having  been  observed  under  favour- 
able conditions  of  weather  by  the  astronomers,  the  Reverend  Fathers  Perry  and 
Sidgreavcs,  of  Stonyhurst,  and  ahw)  by  himself: — likewise  that  the  longitude  of  Nm 
Vey  by  the  chrooometric  measurements  from  and  to  Natal  has  been  determined 
with  marked  precision. 

On  return  to  Simons  Bay  at  the  end  of  December,  the  astronomers  were  di«- 
embarked  to  proceed  to  England  by  mail  packet;  the  Fawn  shortly  afttrwtidi 
sailed  for  England  to  be  put  out  of  commission,  her  boilers,  after  several  yc«»*  wt«r, 
having  become  unserviceable. 

Indian  Ocean. — ^^The  Alert^  Captain  Maclear,  left  Singapore,  early  in  Febnwnr, 
for  Colombo  and  the  Seychelle  Islands.  Keaching  that  group  early  in  March,  ti* 
position  of  the  olf>lytng  Bird  Island  was  determined  in  latitude  and  longitude,  dooUt 
having  been  raised  as  to  the  accuracy  of  its  charted  position. 

Having  rated  chronometers  at  Mah(5,  the  Alert  proceeded  to  the  Amirante  Group 
of  islands,  running  a  line  of  soundings  across  the  extensive  Seychelle  liank.  The 
month  of  March  was  devoted  to  an  examiiialiou  of  these  islanils,  the  entire  ijroup 
being  accurately  charted,  and  the  banks  of  soundings  on  which  they  rest  dolinoitcd 
to  the  one  hundred  fathom  edge.  Ketuming  to  Mahe'  early  in  April  to  coal,  «tiil 
rate  chronometers,  the  ship  then  sailed  on  her  homeward  voyage,  further  sounding 
having  been  made  on  the  Seychelle  Bank,  in  parts  hitherto  blank  on  the  charts. 

Alphonse  Island  was  next  reached,  but  as  a  safe  anchorage  could  not  be  found, 
its  position  alone  was  determined.  Providence  Island  was  then  visited.  This  small 
coral  islet,  two  miles  long,  and  one- third  of  a  milw  in  breadth,  is  on  the  north  end  of 
a  coral  reef,  23  miles  in  length,  level  with  low  water  ;  on  the  southern  part  of  thin 
reef  several  sandlianks,  about  six  feet  above  high  water,  serve  to  mark  the  danger. 
The  western  side  of  this  extensive  reef  was  charted,  and  the  soundings  carried  out 
to  a  depth  «.tf  100  fathoms,  but  the  heavy  sea  on  its  southera  and  eastern  sides  pre- 
venled  further  examination.  In  connection  with  Providence  Island,  Wizard  Rc«f, 
and  the  smalt  island  of  ist.  Pierre,  situated  respectively  therefrom  23  miles  north- 
ward and  18  miles  westward,  were  each  accurately  determined  in  position.  From 
St.  Pierre  the  Ahrt  procee<led  to  Glorioso  Islands.  Five  days  were  spent  in  malting 
a  detailed  survey  of  this  group. 

These  several  islands  visited  by  the  Alert,  which  are  dependencies  of  MAuriliu.s 
are  now  for  the  first  time  accurately  connected  with  each  other,  and  with  SeycheUe», 
Mauritius,  and  Mozambique,  The  islands  |x?rm;Jnently  inhabited  in  the  Amirante 
Group  are  Poivre,  He  dcs  Roches,  and  D'Arros,  upon  each  of  which  the  coco-nut  is 
largely  cultivated ;  the  other  islands  of  this  group  are  chiefly  visited  from  Seychelles 
for  turtle  and  fishing.    Alphonse  and  Providence  islands  are  inhabited ;  a.<s  is  al«; 


REPOKT  ON  ADMIBALTF  SURVEYS  FOR  THE  YEAR  1882. 


597 


Glorieuse  ia  the  Glorioso  Islands.  This  latter  aettlement,  it  ia  said,  is  about  to  be 
abaQdoncd. 

Touching  at  Port  Mozambique  to  rate  chronometers,  opportunity  was  taken  to 
make  a  partial  examioatiou  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  and  of  Leven  Bank; 
as  also  to  detemiine  the  positions  of  the  several  buoys  markiu^  the  shoals  of  the 
Port.  Leaving  Mozambique  at  the  latter  end  of  May,  the  Alert  then  made  the  best 
ol  her  way  to  England,  calling  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  undergo  slight  refit,  aod 
reaching  Plymouth  Sound  on  3rd  September,  1882,  alter  an  absence  of  nearly  four 
yeans,  employed  in  active  surveying  work. 

Western  Auatmlia. — The  surveying  schooner  Meda^  auccessiTely  under  Navi- 
gating Lieutenant  Dixon  and  Staff  Commander  Coghlan,  has  performed  useful  service 
during  the  year  in  sounding  the  approaches  to  the  shore  line  of  the  colony,  between 
Champion  Bay  and  Cai>e  Leeuwin  ;  and  in  defining  the  edge  of  soundings  to  a  depth 
of  100  fiUhoms,  also  in  clearing  away  reported  dangers  on  tliis  line  of  coast,  hitherto 
a  source  of  embarrassment  to  seamen. 

In  the  track  of  vessels  between  Freraantlo  and  Cbarapion  Bay,  the  Turtle  Dove 
Shoal  was  closely  examined,  the  least  water  found  being  five  fathoms ;  the  jHisition  of 
the  neighbouring  Pelsart  Bank  with  18  fathoms  was  also  charted.  The  sea  breaks 
heavily  at  times  on  Turtle  Dove  Shail,  and  a  heavy  swell  was  experienced  on  Pelsart 
Hank.  Near  Cape  Leeuwin  the  formidable  *'  Rambler  "  Reef  was  closely  searched  for, 
and  its  non-existence  definitely  proveil.  This  bugbear  to  vessels  rounding  that 
prominent  Australian  headland  has  therefore  been  expunged  from  the  charts. 

In  continuation  of  the  work  of  previous  years,  Beaver  lleef,  about  00  miles  west- 
ward of  Swan  River,  was  n-^ain  searched  for,  and  eleven  days  occupied  in  traversing 
over  and  near  the  reported  jwsitioTi.  As  the  area  of  searoh  in  the  five  several  exami- 
natioDS  now  made  has  embraced  20  miles  of  latitude  and  60  miles  of  longitude  ;  and, 
further,  no  bottom  having  been  obtained  at  depths  varying  from  300  to  850  fathoms, 
this  reported  danger  has  been  removed  from  the  charts. 

From  the  increasing  importance  uf  the  Gascoyne  district,  and  the  limited  infor- 
mation concerning  its  sea-board.  Navigating  Lieutenant  Dixon  was  detached  in  M.ny 
to  accompany  a  land  expedition  to  that  region,  in  order  to  report  on  the  anchorage  at 
the  mouth  of  Gascoyne  river.  This  officer  made  a  complete  plan  of  the  anchorage, 
including  the  mouth  of  Gascoyne  river.  Ho  also  examined  the  iiuier  and  outer  bars 
of  False  Entrance  to  Shark  Bay.  This  service,  which  was  exposed  and  arduous, 
occupied  several  weeks. 

Japan. — Corea. — -TTie  Flying  Fish,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Iloskyn, 
after  employment  in  continuation  of  former  work  on  the  coast  of  Kiusiu  in  Jajmn, 
eastward  of  Van  Dicraen  Strait,  proceeded  in  May  to  that  part  of  the  west  coast  of 
Korea  in  the  inunediate  neighbourhood  of  the  capital  town,  Scuul, 

Consequent  on  a  preliminary  treaty  of  amity  and  commerce  wliich  had  been 
arranged  between  British  and  Korean  authorities,  the  anchorage  of  .linchuen  (or  as 
it  is  sometimes  rendered  under  the  names  of  Inchon,  Ninsen,  Chi-mul-pho)  on  the 
mainknd,  but  forming  a  part  of  wh.it  is  known  as  theSal(Jo  river,  was,  on  account  of 
its  proximity  to  Sdoul,  examined  as  likely  to  be  a  desirable  port  for  trading  and 
settlement.  This  anchorage  is  distant  from  Stfoul  about  23  miles  by  a  fair  and 
generally  level  road  leading  direct  from  Chd-mnl-pho  (the  landing  place).  Another 
anchorage  on  the  mainland,  a  few  miles  to  the  south  of  Jinchueu,  apparently 
ksown  to  and  frequented  by  Chinese  vessels  (and  lately  in  occupatiuu  of  Chinese 
forces)  is  known  as  Masaupho.  This  anchorage,  when  seen  at  time  of  high  water, 
presented  a  favourable  appearance  as  a  |»rt,  and  was  accordingly  surveyed ;  it  was 
found,  however,  to  be  so  contracted  by  mud  flats  as  at  low  water  to  be  unsuitable, 

loeutenant  Uuskyn  reports  on  this  examination,  that  although.  Jinchuen  has 


598 


REPORT  ON  ADJJIRALTY  SURVEYS  FOR  THE  YEAR  1882. 


many  diead vantages,  the  chief  arUiag  from  tbe  great  stroDgth  of  the  ti<io8»  and  th« 
diftioulty  ia  landiDg  at  low  water  from  the  preat  extent  of  soft  mud  then  left 
uncovered, — senoos  defects  conimon  more  or  lesa  to  all  the  anchonigBS  in  this 
locality, — there  is  no  place  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sal^e  Ti^-er  which  wo«id 
answer  tlie  requirements  of  au  o|x;n  port  equally  well  as  Jmchuen.  The  »{iproacfaw 
to  Salt^  river  from  the  Yellow  Sea  are  through  a  labyrioth  of  islands  (one  of  tbeae 
groups  is  charted  as  Prince  Imperial  Archipelago);  the  outer  islands  of  this  groop 
are  50  miles  distant  from  Jinchuen.  At  present  we  know  little  of  the  nature  oif 
the  outer  channels  leading  to  that  jwrt,  hut  from  the  great  range  of  the  tides  (22  to 
30  feet)  and  their  velocity,  the  multitudinous  isknds  in  the  offing,  and  the  ezteDsivo 
Bhallows  facing  this  singular  line  of  coast,  the  seaman,  even  after  snmjn  htve 
been  executed,  will  doubtless  require  to  exexciae  much  caution  in  approaching  the 
mainland  of  Korea  in  the  neighbourhood  of  its  capital. 

The  examination  of  the  approaches  to  8alee  river  was  continued  to  the  middle 
of  November  ;  this  service  embraced  the  survey  of  Sir  James  Hall  Group  to  tha 
north-west^  in  addition  to  elaborate  plans  of  Jinchnen  and  Iklasanpho.  Whilit 
employed  in  this  service  material  assistance  was  reni^cred  to  the  Japanese  EmhaMj. 
That  body,  owing  to  serious  political  disturbances,  having  been  driven  out  of 
S^ul,  fortunately  reached  the  Flying  Fisfi,  and  were  conveyed  in  that  ship  to 
N^asaki. 

Lieutenant  iloskyn  describes  the  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Jinchuon  and 
Seoul  as  having  a  poor  and  sterile  appearance,  and  being  thinly  inhabited.  Th« 
higher  hills  are  generally  destitute  of  trees,  the  lower  elevations  clothed  only  with  » 
stunted  fir,  chieily  grown  for  firewood.  The  intervening  valleys  are  cultivated 
apparently  in  a  negligent  manner,  and  compare  unfavourablj*  with  the  carefaUy 
tended  crops  in  Japan  and  China.  The  walled  city  of  S^ml  (or  Soul)  is  reported  to 
have  a  population  of  240,000;  it  stands  between  the  mountains,  about  two  milu 
fr<.>m  the  right  bank  of  the  river  S<joul  or  Han  Kong ;  here  the  river  ia  from  200  to 
300  yards  vpide,  very  shallow  and  full  of  sandbanks,  and  apjicared  to  be  above  the 
influence  of  the  tide.  The  wall  (of  substantial  appearance)  encircling  S^ul,  is  Iran 
10  to  20  feet  high,  and  10  or  12  miles  in  extent ;  it  traverses  on  the  north  a  hci^t 
of  1130  feet,  and  in  that  direction  the  city  ia  overlooked  by  a  barren  and  ragged 
range,  which  attains  an  elevation  of  2700  feet.  The  two  principal  entrance  gates 
are  ou  the  east  and  south;  a  wide  street,  the  main  thoroughfare,  divides  the  city  into 
two  nearly  equal  parts:.  In  the  northern  part  are  the  king's  palace  and  rendeodes 
of  the  nobles.  At  the  time  of  Lieutenant  Hoskyn's  visit,  the  Chinese  had  fortified 
camps  outside  the  gates. 

After  leaving  Korea  the  Flying  Fish  resumed  the  survey  on  the  south-east  oout 
of  Kiufiiu,  and  completed  in  detail  the  part  between  Odomari  Bay,  near  8at»-oo- 
misaki,  and  Kay  eta  Saki,  including  a  sejxirate  plan  of  Abratsu  Harbour. 

China. — Jo/hih,— A'orra.— In  the  commencement  of  the  year  the  Maypie^  under 
Lieutenant  and  Commander  Carpenter,  on  the  completion  of  the  shores  of  Hainan 
Island,  and  on  the  passage  thence  to  Hong  Kong,  delineated  the  Nau  Chau  banks, 
and  about  30  miles  of  tho  Kwang-tung  coast-line. 

After  refit  at  Hong  Kong,  the  Magpie  proceeded  to  Japan,  obtaining  dee})  an 
soundings  on  the  passage  when  the  weather  permitted.  Surveying  operations  were 
commenced  on  the  east  coast  of  Nijwn,  and  that  part  between  Mela  Head,  at  the 
entrance  to  tho  Gulf  of  Tokio,  and  Ohigasi-Saki  (a  coast,  it  is  to  be  obaenred, 
frequently  enveloped  in  fog)  examined  in  detail ;  as  was  also  the  salient  pcdnt  uf 
Inaboyo  Saki,  to  the  north-east  of  Ohigasi,  soundings  being  carried  seawaM  to  a 
depth  of  100  fathoms. 

lu  July,  as  resulting  from  the  treaty  recently  made  between  the  British  and 


n 


REPORT  ON  ADSIIRALIT  SURVETS  FOR  THE  TEAR  1882. 


B90 


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Korean  autLoiitiev,  the  Magpie  commenced  an  examination  of  that  part  of  the  aouth 
coast  of  Kolrea  Peninsula  extending  from  the  JaiKinese  treaty  port  of  Ftisan  in  the 
8outh-ea»t,  westward  to  HerRchel  Island,  a  distance  of  about  90  miles.  Much  of 
this  sea-board  region  was  heretofore  unknown.  The  coast-line,  which  is  skirted 
with  mountain  ranges,  in  pkces  attaining  an  elevation  of  nearly  3000  feet,  is  broken 

►  into  numerous  gulfe  and  deep  indentatioDS,  crowded  with  ialandn.     Atnons;  these 

►  to  be  found  several  accessible  harbours  and  useful  channels.  Tli©  mouths  of  the 
vere,  and  their  beds,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  coast,  were  all  shallow.  Although 
be  soil  is  reported  as  good,  and  the  climate  excellent^  the  country  is  but  poorly 

cultivated.  Jn  the  progress  of  the  sun'ey  the  native  officials  were  at  all  times  civil. 
The  lower  classes  were  observed  to  be  poor,  and  living  in  a  wjualid  condition. 

On  the  line  of  coast  examined,  Douglas  and  Ashby  inlets  of  existing  charts  were 

orveyed  in  detail.    Douglas  Inlet  (now  named  Sit  H.  Parkcs  Sound)  was  found  to 

ttend  in  a  north-westerly  direction  19  miles,  and  studdai  with  small  islets.     Ashby 

Qlet  provetl  to  be  the  embouchure  of  Kaktong  river,  said  to  be  navigable  for 

nail  vessels  of  six  to  eight  feet  draught.    Willes  Gulf  (hitherto  unexplored)  was 

examined;  its  upper  part  is  blocked  with   mud-banks  dejwsited  from  the  river 

Sepoo.    A  large  and  probably  navigable  sound,  with  an  area  of  some  IbO  square 

miles,  lies  to  the  westward  of  Willes  Gulf,  and  can  be  entered  either  from  the  head 

of  that  gulf  or  from  the  passages  north-east  of  Ilerschel  Island.    Among  the  useful 

harbours  to  passing  vessels  is  one  on  the  east  coast  of  Cargodo  Island,  and  another 

email  and  secure  one  in  Observatory  Island. 

The  tides  on  the  coast  visited  were  not  so  strong  as  those  expcneoccd  on  the 
west  coast  of  Korea,  and  their  range  was  much  less,  not  exceeding  10  or  12  feet. 
The  numerous  inlets,  and  the  coast  generally,  were  likewise  comparatively  free 
fatm  the  mud-flats  and  shallows  which  form  so  serious  a  barrier  to  the  west  coast 
approaches, 

Wtdern  Facijic  Ocean. — In  consequence  of  tlie  defective  state  of  the  sailing 
hooner  Alacrity^  Lieutenant  Richards  and  party  were  transferred  in  January  to 
be  sister  vessel  lienurdf  and  in  April  resumed  the  survey  of  the  Fiji  Islands. 

In  continuation  of  the  work  i)erformed  in  the  preceding  year,  a  portion  of  the 

northern  coast  of  Viti  Levu,   includiiig  Malidio  Passage  and  the  ofl-lying  danger, 

Charybdis  Reef,  was  examined.     Thence,  the  north-western  shores  of  Vanua  Levu, 

from  Ruku  Ruku  Bay,  eastward  to  the  meridian  of  179"  8'  E.,  including  the  inter- 

^■nediate  islets  and  reefs,  with  Kia  Island  completed.    A  partial  examination  was 

^ftlso  made  of  the  ofl-lying  reefs  and  dangers  in  the  vicinity  of  Round  Island.    The 

^Hliannel  between  Yiti  Levu  and  Yendna  Island  has  boeu  partially  sounded,  as  also 

^"ihe  channel  north  of  Yendua,  between  Round  Island  and  Vanua  Levu.    That  jiart 

of  the  east  coast  of  Viti  Levu  between  Ngoma  Island  and  Yerata  Point  was  also 

^■tompleted. 

^f  The  Lark^  sailing  schooner,  specially  built  for  surveying  service  in  these  seas, 
mider  Lieutenant  Oldham,  commenced  operations  at  the  Solomon  Islands  early  in 
April.  During  tie  year  apportion  of  the  eastern  shores  of  San  Christoval  has  been 
charted;  aud  the  channel  between  San  Christoval  and  Ulaua  partially  sounded.  A 
plan  of  Eddystoue  or  Simbo  Island,  with  the  ofT-lyiug  reefs,  .was  also  executed. 
Princess  Islet  and  Bridgewater  Reef,  reported  to  exist  to  the  south-west  of  Rendora 
Island  in  the  distant  offing,  were  searched  for,  and  existence  disproved, — they  have 
been  expunged  from  the  charts. 

The  Rua  Sura  Islands,  situated  near  the  eastern  side  of  Guadalcanar,  were  visited, 
to  render  assistance  to  the  crew  of  the  wrecked  ship  Pioneer  ;  a  sketch  survey  was 
made  of  the  anchorage  at,  and  the  reefs  around,  this  small  group.  As  forming  a 
pdwork  for  future  operations,  the  positions  of  Port  Mary  in  Santa  Anna  Island, 


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2S°.''_-h«te^ 


REPORT  ON  ADMJRALTY  SUKVErS  FOR  THE  YEAR  1892. 


601 


|500  and  1800  fathoms  exist.  In  oontiauntioD  of  tho  soundings  taken  in  the  steam- 
ship  Faraday  during  the  years  1874-75-79,  when  the  northern  slope  of  the  Flemish 
Cap  (a  bank  with  72  fathoms  on  it,  near  the  Great  Bank  of  Newfoundland)  was 
delineated,  the  eastern  approaches  were  now  sounded,  and  the  edges  at  depths  of 
500,  1000,  and  1500  fathoms  respectively  determined.  The  Telegraph  Construction 
and  Maintenance  Ci>mpany*s  steam-ship  <Sciu«,  in  carrying  a  lin.'  of  sounding i 
between  Lisbon  and  Madeira,  struck  bottom  on  a  bank  about  seven  miles  in  extent, 
rising  suddenly  from  depths  of  22(X)  fathoms  with  100  and  118  fathoms  rock  and 

I  coral ;  this  has  been  charted  as  "  Seine  Bank,"  iti  latitude  33*^  42'  N.,  longitude 
14°  31'  W.  The  ladiarubber.  Guttapercha,  and  Telegraph  Works  Company  hare 
plso  forwarded  to  be  charted  several  off-lying  soundings  extending  from  Vera  Cruz  to 
'^oozaooalcos,  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
'  Summartj  of  the  puUCcatiom  of  the.  ITydrogmjthic  Department  daring  the  year 
1882:— 

CJuirtu, — Sixty-one  new  plates  of  charts  and  plans  have  been  engraved  and 
published ;  and  eighteen  plates  improved  by  the  addition  of  new  plana.    Two 

(thousand  seven  himdred  plates  have  received  corrections  by  the  engraver.  Sixty- 
peven  plates  have  been  greatly  improved  by  corrections  and  additions.  Twenty-three 
Ihousand  two  hundred  charts  have  received  minor  oorrecUous  at  the  bands  of  the 
draughtsmen. 
The  number  of  charts  printed  for  the  requirements  of  the  Boyal  Navy,  for 
Government  Departments,  and  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  general  public,  has, 
dtiring  1882,  amounted  to  229,700. 

ITpflroyraphtc  AVtces,  and  Notir^s  to  Mariners, — Thirty-nine  of  the  first  named 
(containing  213  pages  octavo),  and  290  Notices  to  Mariners  have  b^en  published. 
In  accordiince  with  custom,  these  publications  have  been  largely  distributed 
at  the  Home  Ports,  in  the  Colonies,  to  our  Consols,  and  t^^  Foreign  Maritime 

•Authorities. 
liftohs. — During  the  year  1882,  the  following  volumes  of  Sailing, Directions  and 
other  nydrogmphical  works  have  been  published. 

1.  Channel  Pilot,  Tart  I.,  Gth  edition:  containing  sailing  directions  for  the 
^tapproaches  to  the  English  Channel,  the  Scilly  Islands,  and  the  south-west  and  south 
^Pfeonsts  of  England,  exteadiii;^  fruiii  Trevose  Head,  on  the  coast  of  Cornwall,  to  the 

North  Foreland.     (Date  of  1st  edition,  1830.) 

2.  Channel  Pilot,  Part  II.,  4th  edition:  containing  sailing  directions  for  the 
tiorthom  coast  of  France,  and  the  Channel  Islands.    (Date  of  1st  edition,  1859.) 

3.  North  Sea  Pilot,  Part  III.,  4th  edition:  containing  sailing  directions  for  tho 
east  coast  of  England,  from  Berwick  to  the  North  Foreland,  including  the  estuaty  ot 
the  Thames.     (Date  of  1st  edition,  1857.) 

4.  The  Dardanelles,  Sea  of  Maniuira,  and  the  Dosponis,  3rd  edition :  coQti^tng 
sailing  directions  for  the  Dardanell^,  Sea  of  Marmara,  and  the  Bosporus.  (Date  of 
1st  edition,  1855.) 

^H      5.  St.  Lawrence  Pilot,  Vol.  L,  5th  edition  :  containing  sailing  directions  fw  the 
^BCrulf  aud  River  St.  Lawrence.     (Date  of  Ist  edition,  1840.) 

6.  Principal  Ports  on  the  east  coast  of  the  United  States  of  America,  3rd  edition : 
|,Containing  sailing  directions  for  the  principal  porta  and  anchorages  on  the  east  coast 

of  the  United  States,  comprised  between  Eastport,  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  Cape 
'Oinaveral,  in  the  State  of  Florida.     (Date  of  1st  edition,  1863.) 

7.  Persian  Gulf  Pilot,  2nd  tditioii :  containing  sailing  directions  for  the  Persian 
jppulf,  including  the  Gulf  uf  *Oman  and  the  Arabian  coast,  as  far  as  Ihfe-al-Hadd,  also 

"he  MakrAn  coast  between  Cape  Monze  and  Rus-aUKiih,    (Date  of  1st  edition,  1864.) 
No.  X.— Oct.  1883.]  2  b 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

8.  Fiji  Islands  and  adjacent  waters  (new  work) :  containing  sailing  directi  ir 
the  priocipiif  portion  of  the  Fiji  Islrtnds  and  ndjticent  waters. 

9.  Supplement  No.  1,  to  Africa  Pilot,  Part  I.,  tmbracing  a  recent  examination  of 
the  Oil  Rivera  (new  work). 

10.  Supplement  No.  1,  to  Australia  Birectory,  Vol.  IL,  result  of  a  recent  snnef 
of  Normanby  Sound  and  Prince  of  WaUs  Channel,  Torres  Strait.     (New.) 

11.  Adtninilty  catalogue  of  Charts,  Plans,  and  Sailing  DirectTons  (amounting  to 
2680  engraved  plates,  as  alsi)  of  83  lx>oks  and  iiamphlets  of  sailing  directions),  with  the 
Bcale,  official  number,  and  price  of  each  chart  and  book  attachei!,  for  the  year  1882. 

12.  Tide  tables,  British  and  Iriah  y>orty,  for  the  year  1883 ;  also  the  times  and 
heights  of  high  water  at  lull  and  change  for  the  princiijal  places  (upwards  of  3200 
in  number)  over  the  globe, 

13.  Admiralty  lists  of  Lights  throughout  the  world  (5280  lights,  of  these  779 
are  in  the  British  Islands),  comprised  in  ten  ptimphlets,  corrected  to  31st  December, 
1861.     Fublishod  early  in  1882. 

The  following  "Sailing  Directions"  are  preparing  for  publication  : — West  C«ttt 
of  England,  3rd  e^i. ;  West  India  Pilot,  Vol.  I.,  4th  ed. ;  Africa  Pilot,  Part  II.,  3rd  ed.; 
Bed  Sea  Pilot,  3rd  ed. ;  China  Sea  Directory,  Vol.  III.,  2nd  ed. ;  China  Sea  Directory, 
Vol,  IV.,  2nd  ed. ;  Australia  Directory,  Vol,  L,  8th  ed. ;  Now  Zealand  Pilot,  5th  ed.; 
Vancouver  Island  Pilot,  Supplement. 


GEOGEAPHTCAL  NOTES. 

Ifordenskidld'a  Greenland  Expedition, — Baron  XorJenskiold  touched 
at  Thurso  on  tho  2l8t  of  Septeinlter  on  his  return  from  Greenland,  and 
telegraphed  the  chief  results  of  his  journey  to  the  London  newgpaperfc. 
He  reports  that  the  inland  iee  party  started  on  the  4th  of  July  from 
Auleitsivik  Fiord.  They  penetrated  87  milcB  eastward,  and  to  an 
altitnde  of  5000  feet,  the  soft  snow  preventing  them  from  proceeding 
■with,  sledges ;  but  tho  Laplanders  were  sent  on  snow  shoes  143  miles 
further,  travelling  over  a  continual  snow  desert  to  a  height  of  7000  feet. 
The  conditions  for  a  snow-free  interior  on  which  he  had  speculated  at 
the  commencement  of  bis  undertaking,  the  Baron  naturally  adds,  do  not 
exist  here.  The  inland  party,  however,  as  well  as  tho  other  divisions  of 
the  expedition,  obtained  results  in  physical  geography  and  biology 
which  will  render  tlio  voyage  njemorablo. 

The  American  Polar  Station  at  Lady  Franklin. Bay. — The  attempt 
made  by  tlie  American  Goveniniejit  to  relieve  the  large  party  «n«I*ir 
Lieutenant  Greelj',  who  have  intv:  passed  two  winters  at  Lady  Franklin 
Bay,  failed  again  this  summer,  Smith  Sound  being  found  impenetrable 
on  account  of  the  ice.  The  Proteus,  Hcnt  for  the  purpose,  was  cnished  in 
the  ice,  and  foundered  on  the  2ord  July,  tho  crew  escaping  with  difficulty 
to  Capo  York,  whence  they  wore  rescued  by  tho  U.S.  steamer  Yantic^ 
Baron  Nordenskiold  has  since  reported .  that  the  EsqnimanK  between. 
Waigattel  and  Cape  York  infornicd  Dr.  Nathorst  that  tho  members  of 
the  Greely  expedition,  except  two  who  had  died,  had  escaped  south  to 
Littelton  Island. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


COS 


I 
I 


I 


The  Butch  and  Danish  Arctic  Expeditions. — The  public  anxiety  with 
regard  to  the  two  expeditions  in  the  Dijmphna  and  the  Varna  has  been 
relieved,  by  the  receipt  of  telegrams  with  the  welcome  announoement 
that  the  memliers  are  all  safe  (except  the  boatawain  of  the  Frtma,  who 
waa  dead)  after  their  long  winter  i:ni>risonment.  The  Varna,  however,  had 
been  wrecked,  and  the  membera  of  the  Dutch  Meteorological  Expedition 
and  crew  bad,  after  spending  some  weeks  on  board  the  more  fortunate 
Dijmphna,  landed  at  Waigats,  whore  they  wore  found  by  Captain  Woldo, 
of  iSiliiriakoflTs  steamer  Oti,  on  the  2Gth  (?)  of  August.  Our  Associate, 
Mr.  A.  H.  Cocks,  writing  from  Yardo  on  the  31  at  of  August,  says  the 
Dijmphna  and  the  Varna  lay  beset  in  company  all  the  winter  in  latp 
71°  34'  N.,  long.  62^  61'  E,  The  Varna  was  crushed  by  the  ice  on  the 
24th  or  25th  of  December  and  filled,  so  that  the  crew  were  unable  to 
Rave  any  stores ;  the  ship's  company  were  then  received  on  board  the 
Dijmphna,  and  from  that  time  lived  on  her  provisions,  which  will  of 
course  cripple  the  resources  of  the  latter  vessel.  The  ice  held  the  Varna 
up,  80  that  she  did  not  sink  till  the  24th  of  July.  The  members  of  the 
expedition  and  crew  left  the  Dijmphna  in  four  boats  on  the  Ist  of  August 
and  reached  Waigats  on  the  25th,  where  they  were  dLscovered  by 
Captain  Welde,  and  afterwards  picked  up  by  the  Louise  and  taken  to 
Eammerfest. — In  a  letter  dated  August  lat,  to  Mr,  A.  Gamel,  the 
munificent  promoter  of  the  Duniah  Expeditictn,  Lieutenant  Hovgaard 
says  that  the  moving  iioes  became  very  threatening  in  the  first  days  of 
November,  when  the  crew  of  the  Dijmphna  slept  every  night  close  to  the 
sledges,  ready  to  escape  in  case  of  accident  to  the  ship.  After  a  fort>- 
night's  calm  the  movement  of  the  ice  recommenced  on  the  7th  of 
December ;  they  were  driven  by  it  towards  Cape  Wen  Gau,  and  from 
this  time  to  the  end  of  January  their  position  was  so  precarious  that  all 
on  board  slept  every  night  in  their  clothes.  The  ice  pressure  increased, 
but  did  not  actually  reach  the  two  vessels  till  the  24th  of  December, 
when  the  Varna  was  completely  crushed,  the  i)ymj>Ana  escaping  damage. 
The  depot  of  provisions  and  stores,  which  had  been  placed  on  a  large 
floe,  was  saved  with  difficnlty,  wlicn  the  tloo  itself  collapsed.  After  the 
end  of  February  the  ice  remained  perfcotly  quiet,  and  did  not  break  up 
round  the  two  ships  until  the  11th  of  July.  On  the  S-ith  of  that  month 
the  Varna  foundered,  without  causing  damage  to  the  Dijmphna,  distant 
pnly*170  yards  from  it.  The  addition  of  the  scientific  men  and  tho  crew 
of  the  wrecked  Varna  increased  the  number  on  board  the  Dijmphna  to 
forfy-one  men,  and  as  scarcely  anything  was  sfived  from  the  Dutch 
Tesacl,  tho  provisions  lai<l  in  for  the  Danish  Expedition  have  been  so 
reduced  that  there  remained  only  enough  preserved  meats  for  seven 
months*  consumption  of  twenty  men.  Lieutenant  Hovgaard  concludes 
by  saying  that  it  is  his  intention,  if  the  DijnqJtna  does  not  get  free  this 
summer,  to  send  back  ten  or  twelve  men  to  Denmark,  and  pass  himself 
another  winter  with  the  remainder;   but  if  aho   does  get  free  early 

2  B  2 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


enough,  li©  will  cari'j  out  his  original  plan  as  far  as  his  slender  skiGk 
of  provisions  will  allow,  and  he  hopes  at  least  to  be  able  to  oompletil 
the  map  of  the  Kara  Sea.  Ho  adds  that  the  naturalist  of  the  expedition, 
M.  Holm,  has  made  large  zoological  and  botanical  collections  by 
dredging. — A  fuj-ther  telegram  from  Hammerfest  dated  September  4tb, 
confirms  the  news  of  the  arrival  there  of  the  steamer  Norderakiotd  with  , 
the  Louise  in  tow,  having  on  board  the  crew  of  the  Fama,  of  whom  on« 
man  had  died.  Valuable  magnetic  observations  are  reported  to  have 
been  taken  by  the  expedition. 

Mountain  Climbing  in  the  Himalaya.— Mr.  W.  W.  Graham,  who  it 
travelling  in  the  Himalaya  with  the  two  Swiss  guides,  Emil  Boss  and 
Ulrich  Kanfmann,  the  companions  of  the  Kev.  W.  S.  Green  in  bis  recent 
ascent  of  Mount  Cook  in  New  Zealand,  has  reached  the  summit  of  a 
peak  near  Nynee  Tal,  which  he  has  named  Mount  Monal,  at  an  elevation 
of  22,826  feet.  He  has  also  ascended  very  nearly  to  the  summit  of 
Dunagiri,  a  peak  north  of  Nanda  Devi,  having  reached  the  height  of 
22,500  feet;  a  sudden  and  violent  snowstorm  alone  preventing  him  frotn 
accompliBhing  the  remaining  684  feet  which  separated  him  from  the 
top.  A  remarkable  fact  in  this  feat  of  mountain  climbing  is  that  Mr. 
Graham  did  not  suffer  from  the  rarefaction  of  the  air  at  this  groat  alti- 
tude. Nanda  Devi  itself  ho  found  impracticable;  his  coolies  deserted,  and 
he  and  his  guides,  heavily  laden  with  baggage,  were  obliged  to  find 
their  way  back  over  extremely  difficult  ground.  Mr.  Graham  may  , 
bo  congratulat-ed  on  having  reached  the  highest  altitude  at  prew.-nt ' 
attained,  exceeding  that  of  the  late  Mr.  W.  II,  Johnson,  who,  according 
to  Colonel  Montgomerie,  once  forced  his  way  over  a  ridge  22,300  feet 
above  the  sea.* 

Dr.  Fischer's  return  to  Zanzibar.— A  brief  telegram  announcing 
Dr.  Fischer's  return  to  the  coast  has  appeared  in  the  daily  papers  since 
our  last  issue.  By  letters  more  recently  received  from  Zanzibar  we  leam 
that  after  the  encounter  with  the  Masai  in  the  latter  part  of  April, 
just  before  Mr.  Thomson  came  unexpectedly  on  his  track,  the  German 
traveller  continued  without  further  mishap  in  a  north-westerly  direction 
towards  his  destination,  Lake  Bahringo.  He  did  not,  however,  succeed 
in  reaching  that  point,  the  men  of  his  caravan,  who  were  serving  him  on 
condition  that  they  should  be  allowed  to  trade  on  their  own  account, 
having  found  an  excellent  market  about  half-way,  at  Lake  Kaivasb. 
llere  they  remained  until  they  had  traded  away  all  tbeir  goods  for  ivory, 
when  they  wanted  to  return.  Lake  Naivash,  or  Nabasha,  now  seen  by 
European  eyes  for  the  first  time,  is  described  as  a  sheet  of  water  nearly 
circular  in  outline,  some  eight  miles  across  and  with  an  island  in  tho 
middle ;  it  is  distant,  according  to  the  natives,  ten  marching  days  frottx 
lahringo.     Dr.  Fischer  fell  ill  of  fever  here,  and  on  the  return  journey 

•  '  Proceodingj  R.G.9.*  old  foriei,  xix.  p.  303. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


60S 


had  to  be  carried  in  a  cot  for  twentj-four  days.  He  is  believed  to  have 
been  Buocessful  in  bis  natural  history  explorations,  during  the  five  or 
six  months  be  has  been  travelling  in  this  new  and  prolific  region,  and 
bas  brought  down  to  the  coast,  besides  4000/.  worth  of  ivory  (belonging . 
to  him  or  his  men),  ten  cases  of  zoological  Bpccimens^  chiedy  birds. — 
Mr.  Thomson  writes  from  Taveta,  when  on  the  eve  of  starting  afresh  for 
Victoria  Nyanza  on  the  5th  of  July,  that  the  caravan  he  had  joined 
formed  now  a  party  700  strong,  and  that  ho  had  good  prospect  of 
success  ;  he  would  pass  by  Lake  Naivash  on  his  way  to  Kavirondo. 

Becent  News  from  the  Congo,— When  Mr,  Johnston,  whoso  narrative 
we  give  at  the  commencement  of  the  present  number,  left  the  Congo, 
Mr.  Stanley  was  about  starting  from  Stanley  Pool  for  the  upper  river. 
According  to  recent  news  he  returned  early  in  August,  having  ascended 
as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Ikelemba,  or  Kassai,  where  he  founded  an 
advance  station  and  appears  to  have  met  with  success.  Lieutenant  de 
Brazza's  expedition  is  reported  to  ho  at  a  standstill  on  the  Upper  Ogowe. 
Further  deaths  of  members  of  the  International  party  are  recorded,  the 
most  serious  being  those  of  Lieutenant  Jausson  who  was  dro\vned  with 
the  Abbe  Guyot  by  the  capsizing  of  a  canoe  in  crossing  the  Congo 
near  Msuata,  and  Captain  Hanssen  who  was  killed  by  the  natives  in 
attempting  to  reach  the  Niari  river  overland  from  Manyanga,  Lieu- 
tenant Jan86on  and  the  Abb6  Guyot  were  on  their  return  from  the 
Wabuma  or  Quango,  up  which  the  former  had  been  sent  hy  Mr, 
Stanley  to  found  a  station,  the  Abbo  accompanying  him  with  the  object 
of  establishing  a  Roman  Catholic  Mission  at  the  same  station.  Their 
canoe  was  manned  by  eleven  Zanzibar  men,  eight  of  whom  lost  their 
lives  by  this  lamentable  accident. 

Death  of  Ernest  Marno,  the  African  Traveller, — The  death  is  re- 
corded of  this  meritorious  traveller,  who  had  spent  many  years  in 
exploring  the  Egyptian  Soudan  and  had  published  on  the  subject  (in 
Vienna)  two  important  works,  '  Reisen  im  Gebiet©  dea  Blauen  und 
"NVcissen  Nil,  ■Sec,  in  18G9-73/  and  '  Keise  in  dor  Egyptisohen  /Equatorial 
Provinz  und  in  Kordofan,  in  1874-76.'  Ho  was  born  at  Vienna  in  1844, 
and  started  on  his  first  journey  to  Abyssinia  in  his  twenty-second  year. 
He  joined  Colonel  Gordon  on  the  Upper  Nile  in  1874,  and  accompanied 
Colonel  Chaillie  Long  to  the  remote  Central  African  districts  of  Mundo 
and  ]ltakraka ;  subsequently,  Gordon  appointed  him  Governor  of  the 
Province  of  Galabat,  In  1877  he  served  for  a  short  time  in  East  Africa 
as  a  member  of  the  first  Belgian  International  Expetlition.  He  appears 
to  have  been  on  his  way  to  Europe  to  recruit  his  health,  when  he  died, 
at  Fazogl,  on  tho  17  th  of  August  last. 


(     606    ) 


©bitiiarjj. 

Vice-Admiral  Sir  Richard  CollijiBon,  K,C.B.— Our  Society  has  lost  by  xhT 

death  of  the  eminent  Arctic  uavigator,  8ir  Richard  C^llinaoo,  which  occurred  on  the 
12th  ult.,  one  of  its  most  distinguished  Members,  and  one  wlio  for  a  long  Beries  of 
yeara  occupied  a  promineut  position  on  it«  Council.  Between  1855,  the  year  of  fail 
eleotion  as  a  Fellow,  and  1875,  when  his  appointment  as  Deputy-Master  of  Trinity 
House  necessitated  his  retirement  from  active  partici{)ation  in  the  Society**  work^  he 
served  either  as  a  Member  of  Council  or  Vice-President  for  t  igliteeu  years,  and  was  a 
most  indefati<;al>Ie  Member  throughout  of  our  chief  working  committees.  We  are 
indebted  to  Major-General  T.  B.  Collinaon,  the  brother  of  the  deceased  admiral,  for  the 
following  biographical  details  : — 

Admiral  Sir  Hichard  Collinson  was  the  third  son  of  the  Rev.  John  Colliuson,  rector 
of  Grateshead,  and  afterwards  of  Boldou,  both  in  the  county  of  Durham ;  and  was  bom 
in  the  year  1811.  When  ho  was  twelve  yejvrsold  he  wa-i  put  into  the  Royal  Nary, 
by  a  Bndden  and  unexpected,  but  as  it  turned  out  a  happy,  accident ;  for  he  was  a 
bom  sailor,  and  had,  as  a  schoul-boy,  shown  the  pluok  and  determination  which  is  the 
characteristic  of  that  profession.  Early  in  his  naval  career  he  took  to  the  scientific 
line,  beginning  as  a  midshipman  in  1828,  with  Captain  Forster  in  the  Chanticleer^  on  t 
voyage  of  scientific  surveying  round  the  coast  of  South  America,  in  the  course  of  which 
a  careful  examination  was  made  of  the  levels  of  tbo  Isthmus  of  Panama.  In  1S3A 
he  was  with  Captain  H.  Austin,  in  the  Medea,  one  of  the  first  war-ships  in  which  steam 
was  employed.  Next,  aa  a  lieutenant,  he  was  apjwinted  one  of  the  surveying  officers 
of  the  SufphuTf  under  Captain  Beecbey, — again  on  the  coasts  of  Central  America. 

By  this  time  he  hnd  eatablished  a  name  in  the  Hydrographic  Office  of  the 
Admiralty,  whoso  then  able  superintendent,  Captain  Ceaufori,  was  from  that  time  till 
his  death,  a  sincere  admirer  and  lirm  friend  of  Richard  Collinson.  Captain  Deaufori'i 
good  opinion  of  him  led  to  his  being  selected,  un  tho  outbreak  of  the  tirst  Chinese 
War  in  1841,  to  act  as  surveying  ofiicer  to  the  lieeL  This  duty,  which  was  a  some- 
what novel  one,  was,  in  the  hands  of  Lieutenant  CoIlius4jn,  raised  into  au  important 
branch  of  the  war  enterprise  ;  he  bad  a  amall  vessel  given  him,  the  Hcntinck^  and  in 
consort  with  his  old  shipraate  and  great  friend,  Captain  Henry  Kellet,  who  happened 
to  arrive  in  China  at  that  time  from  a  surveying  expedition  on  the  American 
coast,  these  two  acted  as  tho  pilots  to  the  fleet  in  the  harbours  and  rivers  into 
which  the  expedition  had  necessfirily  to  i>enetnite.  The  course  of  the  war  oom- 
Iielled  tho  fleet  to  enter  more  than  one  lariie  river,  and  among  these  was  notably 
the  great  river  of  China,  the  Yang-tsze-kiang,  now  no  doubt  well  known  to  all 
the  seafaring  world,  but  then  an  aqua  incoguila  al)solutely ;  and  not  only  were  its 
waters  unknown  to  them,  but  they  were  in  ignorance  of  the  preparations  of  defence 
made  by  the  Chinese.  In  advancing  up  this  river  Captain  Kellet  and  Lieutenant 
Collinson  had  to  keep  ahead  of  the  Heet,  buoying  out  the  channel  day  by  day  ;  by 
their  help  the  war-ships  successfully  reached  nearly  200  miles  from  the  mouth. 
Operations  like  these  required  n  ready  scitntific  skill,  as  well  aa  coolness  and  coungc, 
and  involved  an  amount  of  i>urs(mal  lalxtur  requiring  great  activity,  endurance,  aod 
zeal.  Jn  them  Lieutenant  Lollinson  showed  such  cafMibility  in  the  more  warlike  as 
well  as  in  the  scientific  branches  of  his  profession,  that  Admiral  Parker,  the  naval 
commander  of  the  expedition,  took  him  greatly  into  his  confidence,  and  intrust««l  him 
with  various  important  duties,  and  valued  his  opinion  greatly.  The  result  on  th* 
whole  was  that  Lieutenant  Collinson  came  out  of  the  war  a  post-t^aptain  and  aC.B. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  Chinese  W^ar  there  arose  a  desire  to  have  the  coast  of 
China  surveyed  to  enable  merchant  ships  totako  advantage  of  the  openings  gained  ly 


OBITUARY. 


607 


i 


the  war  into  the  varioos  new  ports  in  that  country.  The  duty  was  handed  over  to 
Captain  CoUinson  ia  the  Plover  (as  the  UentincJc  was  renamcnlX  and  with  him  was 
associated  Id;*  friend,  Lieuteuaut  Bate,  in  a  small  schmjuer  aiUed  the  Young  Uebif. 
These  two  little  vessels  for  three  years  worked  along  the  Chinese  coast,  from  Chusan 
to  H»>ug  Kong,  including  the  Island  of  Forrao&i,  and  jcoiluced  the  tharta  which  are 
still  the  guides  for  the  extensive  sea-traflic  now  frequeutiug  those  seas. 

His  next  scicntiiic  scn*ice  was  the  one  in  conntction  with  which  he  is  most  widely 
known — the  search  after  the  missing  ships  of  Sir  John  Franklin'*  expedition  in  the 
rctic  Seas.  It  was  in  1849,  on  the  rttnru  of  Sir  James  Ross  from  one  of  the  fruit- 
attempts  in  thjsiiearch  on  the  eajstera  sid",  that  the  Government  determined  to 
make  another  from  Behrioi;  Straits  ou  the  wostt^rn  sitie  of  the  North-west  Passage; 

,  again,  on  the  recommeadation  of  Sir  Francis  Beaufort,  Captain  Collinson  waa 
in  command  of  the  exjxidition ;  which   consisted  of  the  same  two  vessels 

ployed  under  Sir  J.  Koss,  namely,  the  Entei^irUe  and  the  Invcatigaioff  the  latter 
tmuianded  by  Captaiii  M'Clure. 

After  passing  round  Cape  Horn  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  two  vessels  were 
itcd,  and  Captain  M'Clure  in  the  Investigator  arrived  first  at  the  Straits ;  that 
aWc&c  proceeded  on  at  once,  taking  a  cmirsie  according  to  his  own  jmlgmcnt,  without 
waiting  for  the  decision  of  the  commander  of  the  exjiedition.  This  action,  however 
conscientiously  taken,  judging  hy  the  results,  had  an  unfortunate  effect  on  the 
proceedings  of  hoth  shifts;  for  thouf^h  the  Investigator  vma  the  first  to  diiscover  a 
north-west  passage,  shu  had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  ice,  a  monument  of  her  own 
<ii8COvery.  The  Etiterpri^:  made  the  same  discovery  shortly  afterwards,  and  was 
fortunate  in  returning  safe  to  demonstrate  it. 

Captain  Collinson,  on  arriving  at  Behring  Straits,  and  finding  that  hie  consort 
hsA  gone  OD,  attempted  to  pursue  tlie  lino  of  acorch  he  bad  previously  detcrmicud 
on  following.  That  was  to  keep  along  the  coast  of  North  America,  where  the 
river  wat«r  coming  from  the  south  kept  an  open  chauuel  in  the  ice  every  autumn, 
and  by  which  he  ho\ted  to  reach  the  pjissages  south  of  reel  Sound,  where  it  was 
generally  expected  some  traces  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  would  be  found.  Ue  was  too  lata 
in  the  season  to  ell'ect  this,  but  in  the  following  year  he  succeeded  in  penetrating 
along  this  route  as  far  as  Victoria  Straits,  in  longitude  about  lOC^  west ;  the  ahip 
having  got  as  far  as  Cambridge  Bay,  longitude  114° ;  in  the  course  of  this  work  the 
Entrrprise  was  abut  n[>  in  the  Arctic  Seas  for  three  years  and  a  half,  thus  being  left 
a  longer  time  to  her  own  resources  than  any  other  ship  in  nio<lern  times.  He  then 
bad  the  mortification  to  find  that  owing  to  an  error  of  calcuUtion  in  England,  the 
supply  of  fuel  was  coming  to  tin  end.  But  fur  this,  he  would  have  reumined,  and, 
had  his  consort  been  with  him,  v^ould  have,  in  all  human  probability,  succeeded 
in  the  object  of  his  search,  as  his  exploring  parties  were  aknost  in  sight  of  the 
spot  where,  three  years  afterwards,  the  boat  of  the  missing  exjiedition  was  fouml 
by  Captain  M'CIiotock's  party.  Altliough,  owing  to  those  mishaps,  the  Enterprise 
ist  missed  both  the  honour  of  that  discovery  and  also  that  of  the  North-west 
.Passage,  they  had  the  satisfaction  of  having  virtually  made  the  passage,  by 
iverlapping  in  longitude  the  tracks  of  othur  vessels  which  had  come  from  the  west 
aide,  the  end  of  each  track  being  conuectod  with  the  other  track  by  a  navigable 
channel ;  and  also  they  hod  the  credit  of  bringing  the  ship  safe  homo  after  this  long 
and  protracted  cxjiedition.  There  were  other  difficulties  he  had  to  contend  with  on 
board  his  own  ship  in  the  way  of  discipline,  which  hampered  his  action.  But  tho 
hardest  trinl  of  all  was,  on  his  return  homo,  to  find  himself  rather  coldly  received  by 
the  Admiralty,  with  whom  a  trouble  about  discipline  was  of  more  concern  than  the 
explorations  in  the  Arctic  Seas. 

The  Royal  Geographical  Society,  however,  showed  their  high  appreciation  of  tha 


A 


608 


OBITCJARY, 


eervice  'he  had  performed  in  examining  the  const-line  of  Arctic  America  and  in 
op?nin«;  up  a  fre«h  field  for  whalers,  b}'  conferring  on  him  in  1858  their  Founder* 
gold  medal,  and  making  him  a  member  of  their  Council.  But  the  absence  of  proper 
acknowledgment  or  ruward  for  his  service  by  the  Government,  \va«  ao  deeitly  fell  bj 
him  that  he  never  again  applied  for  eraplo}  ment  from  the  Admiralty,  lie  was, 
however,  employed  for  a  little  time  on  certain  commissions  connected  with  the  naval 
service,  such  as  the  naval  defence  of  the  Canadian  Lakes,  and  the  defences  of  the 
United  Kingdom  generally. 

For  several  3*ears  after  his  return  from  the  Arctic  Seas  he  devoted  hiinaelf  to  tbe 
care  of  bis  aged  father,  then  in  fiiiling  health  ;  and  on  his  death  in  1857,  Captain 
CoUinson  provided  a  home  for  his  mother  and  siatera  in  the  house  in  Ealing,  where 
the  family  have  remained  ever  since.  A  coincidence  of  good  omen  occurred  in  the 
name  of  the  house.  He  himself  wished  it  appropriately  to  be  chilled  '*  The  Haven," 
and  afterwards  found  that  the  proper  name  of  the  bit  of  common  land  in  front  of  it 
was  llaven  Green»  A  haven  he  made  it  for  twenty-six  years,  not  only  for  thoM 
most  dependent  on  him,  but  for  all  his  connections  whose  business  brought  them 
within  reach  of  it. 

Subsequently  to  his  settlement  at  Ealing,  the  deceased  admiral  was  elected  i 
Younger  Brother  of  the  Corporation  of  the  Trinity  House.  He  was  promoted  to  be  in 
Elder  Brother  in  1862,  and  in  this  capacity  he  ao  gained  the  esteem  and  confidence 
of  his  colleagues,  that,  thirteen  years  after,  on  tbe  death  of  Sir  Frederick  Arrow,  bo 
was  chosen  to  be  the  Deputy-Master,  a  most  nnusual  honour  to  be  paid  to  an  officer 
of  the  Royal  Navy. 

The  Corporation  of  the  Trinity  House  was  first  established  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  V^III.,  for  the  purjiose  of  assisting  the  mercantile  marine  of  the  country,  aad 
it  has  contiuue?d  down  to  the  present  day  without  intermission,  although  ItsfunctiDOi 
have  now  been  limited  to  the  care  of  the  lights  and  marks  of  our  harbours,  and 
to  the  superintendence  of  pilotage,  and  of  the  examination  of  officers  of  ineichaot 
vessels,  and  attcndaoco  at  tbo  Admiralty  Court.  It  has  been  managed  by  a  board 
of  "  Elder  Brethren,"  as  they  are  tailed,  elected  by  themselves  from  the  masters  of 
merchant  vessels,  and  occasionally  from  the  officers  of  ibe  Royal  Navy,  The  head 
of  the  House,  or  **  Master,"^  as  he  is  called,  has  been  for  many  years  chosen  from 
among  the  highest  personages  of  the  kingdom.  The  Duke  of  Wellington,  Lord 
Palmerston,  and  I'rince  Albert  each  held  the  office,  and  at  the  present  time  our  sailor 
prince,  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  is  Master.  Under  him  is  the  *'  Deputy-Master,* 
who  is  really  the  working  bead  of  the  establishment,  and  a  responsible  and  anxious 
office  it  is.  He  has  to  sec  that  the  working  of  the  different  standing  committee*  of 
the  Elder  Brethren  for  the  different  departuienls  of  the  whole  business  are  carried  on 
harmoniously  together;  and  to  preside  at  the  meolings  of  the  whole  body,  held  twice 
a  week,  and  see  that  their  decisions  arc  carried  out;  and  ho  is  the  commander  of  the 
considerable  fleet  of  steamers  and  of  the  large  body  of  keepers  ctmnected  with  ibc 
lighthouses ;  besides  being  also  in  constant  communication  with  the  Board  of  Trade, 
under  which  department  the  Coi-poration  is  now  placed.  And  as  the  efficiency  of 
the  lights  and  marks  on  the  coast  depends  on  constant  watchfulness,  and  any  tem- 
porary obstrnotioDs,  such  as  wrecks,  have  to  be  looked  to  immediately,  the  Deputy- 
Master  cannot  be  long  away  from  his  post, 

Afiler  Bonio  years'  unremitting  fulfilment  of  these  duties,  his  health  failed,  and  ho 
began  to  suffer  once  more  from  both  the  sciurvy  engendered  by  his  three  years  in  the 
dark  north,  and  the  fever  and  [ague  implanted  in  him  on  the  China  coast.  But  the 
same  determination  to  persevere  with  his  duty  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability,  which 
had  carried  him  through  the  work  in  China  and  the  Arctic  Sea,  now  kept  him  «t 
his  ixjfit  in  the  Trinity  House,  until,  at  last,  he  was  reduced  to  such  a  state  of  weak- 


I 
I 


OBITUART. 


609 


,  that  it  was  beyond  the  power  of  all  the  skill  and  alt  the  care  which  could  l>c 
brought  to  bear  on  the  case,  to  prevent  the  downward  progress  of  his  vital  p>wer. 
After  nearly  two  months"  oscillating  between  the  direction  of  life  and  that  of  death, 
the  vital  action  grew  fainter  and  fainter,  and  at  length  ceased. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  last  twenty-six  years,  beaides  taViu^  an  active 
part  in  the  management  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  he  had  been  aUo  a  member 
of  the  Council  of  the  United!  Service  Institution,  and  from  his  position  at  the  Trinity 
House  had  become  lately  an  ex-ojicio  member  of  the  Tlvaroos  Conservancy  Bc^ard, 
and  of  the  National  Lifeboat  Institution,  besides  other  public  bodie;?  connected  with 
the  royal  and  mercantile  marine  of  the  country.  Ua  was  one  of  the  first  support.rs 
of  ]li(ajor  Macrae  in  starting  the  "  Army  and  Navy  Co-o|M;rative  Society,"  and  at 
ita  foundation  and  for  soma  years  afterwards  he  was  Chairman  of  the  Board  of 
Directors— and  a  Directorship  in  that  society  ia  no  sinecure.  But  he  bad  also  the 
feeling  which  he  had  imhilied  from  the  iiaternnl  home,  that  it  is  the  duly  of  every 
man  who  has  time  and  capability,  to  take  part  in  the  local  institutions  of  the  place 
wherein  he  happens  to  be  living.  He  was  for  some  yeara  a  member  of  the  Local  Board 
of  Ealing,  and  had  been  a  churchwarden  both  t»f  Christ  Church  and  St.  John's,  and 
up  to  the  last  he  was  a  member  of  the  Ruri-Decaaal  Association  of  the  Clmrch  district, 
and  of  the  C-onimittee  for  the  Managementof  the  Elementary  Schtfolsof  the  District. 
For  all  these  bubaidiary  duties  to  his  main  one  at  the  Trinity  House  he  had  the 
same  desire  to  throw  himBelf  into  the  work  heartily,  and  apply  all  the  power  he 
possessed  towards  it.  Whether  it  was  in  the  scientilic  societies  or  public  offices  in 
London,  or  in  the  local  institutions  in  Ealing,  there  wa.s  the  same  original  thought- 
fulness,  practical  good  sense,  and  firm  determination  to  forward  the  real  business  of 
the  institution  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability  through  all  diflicuUies.  In  puliiics  he 
continued  in  the  belief  in  the  Conservaiivo  principles  in  which  he  had  been  brought 
up;  from  the  mature  conviction  confirmed  by  his  practicnl  experience  of  other 
countries,  that  thoeo  principles  were  best  calculated  to  insure  the  independence  of 
this  country  and  the  stability  of  its  institutions.  In  the  ecclesiastical  matters  which 
during  the  latter  half  of  his  lile  have  so  much  roused  the  cuuntry,  he  was,  like  his 
father  before  him,  a  moderate  High  Churchman.  A  firm  believer  in  the  doctrines 
and  in  the  institutions  of  the  Church  of  England  and  a  true  lover  of  her  services, 
which  throughout  all  bis  varied  voyages  he  had  never  ceased  to  use,  he  still  looked 
more  to  the  practice  of  those  doctrines  in  his  daily  life,  both  public  and  private, 
than  to  the  forms  and  ceremonies  of  the  services.  He  was  a  fair  specimen  of  the 
determined,  yet  careful,  life-enjoying,  simple  character  of  the  British  sailor,  and, 
as  far  as  in  him  lay,  endeavoured  to  be  '*  upright,  and  one  that  feared  God  and 
esthewed  evil." 

He  dietl  at  his  home,  The  Haven,  Ealiufr,  on  the  13th  September,  and  wasbxiried 
at  the  neighliouring  village  of  Ferivale,  on  the  17th.  Among  the  numerous  mourners 
who  headed  the  long  funeral  cortege,  were  his  two  eminent  Arctic  colleagues. 
Admirals  Sir  G.  Ilicbards  and  Sir  Le<»iHjld  M'Clintock,  besides  Mr.  Murray  and  Mr. 
Belither,  his  shipmates  on  board  the  Kjittrjirue  in  its  long  Arctic  voyage.  Miss 
Cmcroft,  the  niece  of  the  laJe  Lady  Franklin,  deposited  on  the  cofiin  a  wreath  with  the 
insjcription : — "  In  Grateful  Memory  of  Arctic  Service  in  the  l::>earch  for  Sir  John 
Fraukhn,  and  of  never  failing  Symjjalhy  and  Aid  given  to  his  widow,  Jane,  Lady 
Franklin.     Whatsoever  his  hand  found  to  do,  he  did  it  with  his  might." 


€10 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 

OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 

SOnTHPOilT  MEETING.  1SS3. 

The  meeting  of  the  British  Association  was  held  this  year  at  Soutbport^  from 
the  19tli  to  the  26th  of  Sopteml>er.  The  Geographical  Section  was  organiaed  at 
follows : — 

President, — Lieiit.-Colonel  E.  H.  Godwin -Austen,  f.b.s.,  f.g.s.,  f.b.o.b^  &c 
Vice-Presidents.  —  Sir    Ilaw«on    W,    Rawson,    k.o.m.o.,    cb.;    Bev.    GanoQ 
Tristram,  d.b.,  r.a.s. 

Secbetabies. — John  Coles ;  E.  Gr.  Kavenistein ;  E.  C.  Rye  {Recorder). 

The  President's  Address  to  the  Section.— My  predecessor,  Sir  Richard 
Temple,  selected  iur  the  subject  of  his  address  to  thi.s  Section  last  year  *'Tlni 
Central  Plateau  of  Asia,"  and  he  treated  it  not  only  from  a  broad  and  geneal 
geofjmphical,  but  also,  aud  to  some  extent,  a  political  and  hislorical  point  of  view. 
Following  him,  in  a  measure,  over  soma  of  the  same  gruimd,  1  have  Belect«\i  tiis 
njouutaiu  region  south  of  tlie  Ci^ntral  Asian  highlands — viz.  the  Himalayas,  and 
more  particuhuiy  the  weaterti  portion  of  that  range,  as  the  subject  of  this  paper.  I 
proiose  considering  this  mountain  ckaiu  with  reference  to  its  physical  feuturciif  pirt 
and  present ;  and  consequeully  with  reference  to  its  gcolc^ical  history,  so  far  as  that 
relates  to  later  tertiary  times — i.  e.  the  i>eriod  immediately  preceding  the  promt 
distribution  of  seas,  laud,  rivers,  and  lakes.  It  is  not,  however,  my  intentjon  to 
enter  very  deeply  into  the  purely  geo laical  branch  of  the  subject 

Comfxiratively  little  of  the  earth's  surface  now  remains  unexplored,  but  maclt 

L remains  to  be  surveyed  and  examined  in  a  more  scientific  Uiaunor.     Within  the  \ha 

l^ty  years  explorers  have  made  known  to  us  the  general  features  of  those  dotted  or 

^))lank  spaces  whlch^  as  boys,  we  used  to  look  at  in  our  school  athis  sheets  with  eo 

much  curiosity,  mingled  with  ni-*  little  desire  to  discover  the  hiddeai  secrets  of  tb« 

unknown  lands  so  shown.     The  student  of  the  present  day  enjoys  informatiaa 

more  or  less  accurate   respecting  countries  which   to  us  were  mere   speculative 

shadows. 

But  there  are  other  atlas  sheets  beneath,  and  only  a  very  few  feet  beneath,  thoie 
of  this  present  day,  which  are  closely  connected  with  the  latter,  and  beneath  tbenii 
again  others  lie  still  deeper  which  have  modilied  the  geography  of  this  eartli  over  | 
and  over  again.     It  is  to  such  a  sheet  or  two  relating  to  the  great  Uimalayau  chain 
that  I  now  innte  your  attention.     If  we  wish  to  deal  with  phyhiaxl  geography 
{and  to  my  mind  it  has  equal  charms  with  cither  pure  geography  or  exploration) 
our  inquiry  must,  if  we  wish  it  to  bo  of  any  really  scientific  value,  t»o  based  oa  ' 
geological  structure.     We  must  study  the  ancient  atlas  sheets,  one  by  one,  which 
nature  is,  day  hj  day,  revealing  to  us  by  denudation  of  the  present  surface,  takui^ 
away  and  building  up  the  material  for  atlas  sheets  of  future  ei>ochs.     Geography 
and  geology  are  very  intimately  related ;  each  is  truly  based  w^n  the  other.     Loc»l 
changes  of  temperature  on  the  surface  of  this  earth,  and  internally  the  slow  alirinkiug 
of  its  crust,  have  effoctod  gigantic  changes  of  its  surface,  and  are  still  altering  the 
topographical  features  of  every  country.     Directly  we  look  back  in  time  and  ipaa 
and  note  w^hat  changes  have  taken  place,  the  science  of  geology  steps  in,  and  witli 
it  mathematics,  chemistry,  botany,  and  stoology.    A  raised  sea*beach  with  its  dead 
shells,  or  a  submerged  forest  with   the  remains  of  its  former    fauna   and  flon, 
geologically  an  event  of  yesterday,  sends  us  back  thousands  of  years  into  the  jni 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


611 


thinking  of  what  were  tho  aspect  aod  dimensions  of  the  former  land ;  therefore, 
to  be  n  goo<l  geogmpher,  something  should  be  known  of  geology  and  its  kindre<i 
sciences.  Thi«  will  be  ray  excuse  if  in  this  address  I  dip  somewhat  below  the 
surface,  and»  as  tiome  may  think,  introduce  too  much  geology  into  this  Section.  The 
basis,  however,  of  this  branch  of  knowledge  is  geography,  and  this  the  Royal 
|Geo;;^aphiicall  Society  and  the  British  Association  in  this  particular  Section  do 
all  they  can  to  loster.  There  is  no  gainsaying  the  fact  that  very  many  of  our  ablest 
men  of  science,  the  ablest  naturalists  and  geologists  this  country  has  prcnluced  (and  it 
has  taken  a  leiuling  part  in  geolo;:y),  have  comiuunced  their  careers  in  connection 
with  geographical  exploration.  Ditrwiii's  earlier  studies  were  prosecuted  whilst  he 
was  atuvchod  to  marine  surveys  in  other  parts  of  the  world ;  through  tho  same  school 
passed  Huxley  and  Edward  Forbes.  Thtjrc  was  no  better  example  of  an  able 
geographer  and  geologist  than  Sir  Ruderick  Miuchisoo,  wIjo  fur  years  took  a  leading 
pari  ftt  these  meetings.  The  list  might  be  largely  extended— Sir  Joseph  Hooker, 
Wallace,  Wyville  Thomson,  Moaeley,  &c.  That  most  seductive  of  all  studies,  tho 
graphical  diatributioa  of  species,  is  intimately  connected  with  geographical 
itploration.  Just  as  the  navy  owe<j  much  of  its  efiiciency  to  our  coasting  and 
Dercantile  marine  and  to  our  hardy  fishermen,  an  have  geography  and  other  sciences 
ecu  strengthened  by  the  labours  of  tb«»se  practical  and  scientific  men  who  have 
en  engaged  in  marine  or  territorial  surveys, 
l^e  Himalayas,  the  highest  mountains  in  the  world,  have  excited  the  interest  of 
ay  travellers  and  many  gt<)graphers ;  very  ranch  has  been  written  about  them, 
ne  from  ]jer8onal  knowledge,  and  a  gooci  deal  on  second-hand  information.  Much 
onfusion  has  resulted  from  the  features  of  the  north-western  area  being  so  dissimilar 
t  comr»06itiou  to  those  of  the  rest,  or  eastern  i^art  of  the  chain,  and  the  limitation 
place<l  on  the  breadth  and  extent  of  the  whole  as  a  mountuiu  masij.  There  has  been 
i  tendency  to  apply  the  term  "  Himalaya  "  in  too  extendtd  a  sense  ;  it  should,  1  con- 
der,  be  restrictetl  to  tliose  jwrtiims  which  dominate  the  plains  of  India,  from  the 
inhabitants  of  which  country  we  have  derived  the  name.  This  would,  strictly 
speaking,  apply  only  to  the  snowy  range  seen  from  the  plains  of  India  bordering  upon 
the  course  of  the  Ganges ;  but  we  might,  I  thiuk,  usu  the  term  in  an  extended  sense, 
j«o  as  to  include  thai  which  we  may  call  the  North-western  Himalaya,  north  of  tko 
Panjab,  and  also  the  Eastern  Himalaya,  bordering  on  Assam. 

'llie  orography  of  this  mountain  mass  has  been  recently  ably  httndle<l  by  Messrs. 

Medlicott  and  Blanfurd,'  and  I  follow  them  in  all  their  main  divisions  ami  nomen- 

clatore,  which  are  bas«!d  upon  a  thorough  understanding  uf  tlie  rocks  of  the  country. 

Some  line  must  be  selectctl  where  the  term  Unnalaya  in  its  widest  sense  must  cease 

to  be  used,  and  this  certainly  cannot  be  better  detiutd  than  by  the  valley  of  the 

Indus  from  Altock  to  Bunji.     On  this  line  we  find  the  great  bending  round  or 

^Hlbauge  in  the  strike  of  all  the  ranges.     Strictly  s[x;aking,  tho  change  commences  on 

^^Uie  south,  where  the  Jhclum  river  leaves  the  mountains,  but  this  line,  north  of 

^BfozntTerabad,  continues  on  into  the  above-mentioned  jMirt  of  the  Indus  valley.  To  tho 

^^noontains  north  of  the  Indus  on  its  east  and  west  course  the  name  Himalaya  should 

<!ertainly  never  be  applied.     For  this  north-west  trans-Iudus  part  of  the  Asian  chain 

^■Sre  have  the  well-known  name  Mustagb,  so  far  as  the  head  of  the  Gilgit  valley : 

^Pve  Hindu  Kush  being  an  excellent  term  nuw  in  common  use  for  its  extension  to  the 

Afghan  country. 

The  observatioDS  made  by  many  of  the  assistants  of   the  Indian  Gcologiciil 
Btirvey,  more  especially  by  Stoliczka,  and  more  recently  by  Lydckkerf   in  the 


♦  *  A  Manual  of  the  Gec.logy  of  Iii<lia,'  1879,  p.  9. 
t  '  Memoirs  of  the  Geology  of  Indiiu' 


eid 


PKOCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


HinwlayoB,  combined  with  tJbose  made  by  myself  in  the  same  region,  have,  wh» 
considered  in  conjunctioa  with  the  ascertained  strike  of  the  giuDituid  or  gndaaic 
rocks,  led  me  to  separate  the  great  Cealral  Ahian  cbain  iuto  the  fuliowing  fire  pan* 
cipal  divisions,  with  some  minor  BubdivisioDs : — 

Ctnitral  Aiian  Chain.* 


3.  Himalaya. 

4.  Onter  or  Lower  Himalaya* 

5.  Sub-Himalaya. 


1.  The  main  axis  or  Central  Asian, 
Kuenlun. 

2.  Trans-Uimalaya. 

I  use  Ibo  word  "chain"  in  its  wide^-vt  menning,  fo  as  to  compriao  the 
length  and  breadth  of  a  mono  tain  mass,  aud  Tiot,  as  it  has  been  sometimes  need,  I 
describe  a  "cbain  "  or  single  line  of  mountain  peulcs. 

I  show  these  and  the  equivalent  ranges  of  other  geographers  and  authors  in  th« 
accompanying  synojjtical  form  ;  and  if  sections  be  made,  at  intervals  of  about  100 
miles  apart,  through  the  whole  mass  of  the  chain  from  the  plains  of  India  to  Thibet, 
they  show  where  the  different  ranges  are  locally  represented,  and  bow  tbtr 
separate  or  are  given  off  from  the  main  axis  liaea.  The  same  scale  for  both 
vertical  and  horizontal  meaaurements  should  be  used,  because  there  is  nothing  mote 
mlsleadiog  than  sections  in  which  an  exaggerated  vertical  scale  is  nsed.  In  our 
present  state  of  ignorance  as  to  the  composition  of  the  chain  eastward  (torn  the 
sonrce  of  the  Sutlej,  we  cannot  attempt  to  lay  down  there  any  axis  lines  of  origiiul 
elevation.  The  separation  by  Mr.  Ciements  Markhamt  and  Mr,  Trelawny  SaundcraJ 
of  the  line  of  highest  peaks  into  one  range,  and  the  water-parting  into  another,  ic 
An  acceptable  solution  of  the  physical  features  as  at  present  known  of  this  part  of 
the  chain.  I  am  led  to  think,  however,  that  when  this  ground  is  examined  it  will 
resolve  itself  into  a  series  of  imrallel  ridges  more  or  less  close,  and  oblique  to  tbt 
line  of  greatest  altitude  as  defined  by  the  line  of  high  peaks,  crossing  diagonally 
even  the  main  drainage  line  of  the  Sanpu,  Just  as  we  see  the  Ladak  axis  crossing 
the  Indus  near  Hanle,  ur  ihe  Pir  Panjal  that  of  the  Jhelum»  Sir  Henrj'  Strachey** 
conception  of  the  general  structure  was  the  stumdest  and  most  scienti6c  first  pro- 
pounded. §  He  considered  it  to  be  made  up  of  a  series  of  parallel  ranges  running  in 
an  oblique  line  to  the  general  direction  of  the  whole  mass,  the  great  peaks  being  oa 
terminal  butt-ends  of  the  successive  parallel  ranges,  the  watershed  following  Um 
lowest  parts  of  the  ridges,  and  the  drainage  crossing  the  highest,  iu  deep  gorges 
directly  transverse  to  the  main  lines  of  elevation. 

It  will  be  seen  from  sections,  drawn  as  above,  that  the  mountain  mass  of  ib« 
Himalayas  increases  gradually  in  height  from  the  south  to  about  its  central  portion 
and  then  as  gradually  falls  towards  the  north  side.  There  is  no  abrupt  and  con- 
spicuous slope  from  the  higher  lino  of  peaks  to  the  plains ;  a  succession  of  spurs  frmu 
the  main  water-parting  intervenes,  and  these  spurs  retain  often  a  very  considenihlfl 
altitude  far  to  the  south.  The  spurs  terminate,  \isually,  abruptly  towards  the  pkin* 
of  India,  at  an  altitude  of  5CND0  to  8000  feet,  just  within  a  more  or  lea  brood  belt 
of  fringing  low  hills,  the  well-known  Sivaliks. 


*  Consult  Atlas  bbeets  of  the  Indian  Surrey,  1  inch  =  4  miles,  and  latest  map  of 
Turkestan  and  the  Gountries  between  tlio  Britioh  and  Bussian  dominions  in  Indii— 
1  inch  ^  32  miles.    Compiled  nuJer  the  orders  of  Lieut.-Gen.  J.  T.  Walker,  cb^  a.E, 

F.lt.S. 

t  '  Thibet/     Boyle  and  Manning.    Intnjduetion, 

'  tk'ugraphicol  Magaziue,'  July  1877,  p-  173- 
§  "Physical  Geography  of  Western  Thibet,"  Mtoyal  Geographical  Society'a  Joomii,' 
vol.  xxiii.  p.  2. 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


613 


614 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


It  Las  been  laid  down  that  tlie  Himalayan  chain  culminates  in  two  piindid 
ranges  running  through  its  entire  leugtli  from  the  Indus  to  the  Brahmaputra,  and 
these  have  been  called  the  North  and  8outh  Himalaya,  or  central  and  southern ;  th 
two  combined  (they  are  very  closo  in  parts)  really  oonstltuto  the  above  chain.    Wd 
can  apply  this  syatem  to  certain  portions  of  the  range,  but  it  breaks  down  when  wtl 
reach  the  Sutlej  on  one  Bide  and  the  Monasa  on  the  other.    The  more  we  iormne^ 
the  scale  of  our  maps,  tlic  greater  the  number  of  axial  lines  we  can  establish^  all 
intimately  connected  with,  and  subsidiary  to,  the  nm  or  strike  of  the  greater  series 
of  ttsial  elevations,  J 

Explanation  of  the  Diffebekt  Rakges.  ' 

1.  Kttatlun  Mange. — T)5e  irjyst  westerly  extension  of  this  granitoid  axis  i» 
found  WJJ.W.  of  the  Zangi-diwan  Pass  at  Oikul  and  tho  Victoria  Lake.  Hero  | 
Stoliczka  records  it  *  with  slates  and  schists  resting  on  it  to  the  southward.  Now 
the  next  great  granitoid  axis  south  of  the  above,  with  palaeozoic  rocks  on  it» 
northern  face,  is  at  the  Mustagh  Pass,  50  miles  to  the  south  of  the  Kuenlun  at 
Zangi-diwaii,  and  it  coiocitles  in  iit)8ition  with  the  gneiss  of  Kila  Panza,t  the 
granitic  axis  of  tho  Mustagh  being  contiiiuctl  W.N.W.  in  the  high  peaks  of  Hunza- 
Na^ar.  The  Kuenlun  axis  passes  by  Shabdula  eastward  by  peaks  E.  61,  23,l?!Xl,  , 
E,  64,  21,500,  up  to  Yeshil-Kut  on  tho  Keria  route,  for  a  distance  of  about  450] 
miles ;  beyond  this  is  unexplure<l  couutry. 

I  have  adopted  tho  term  Mustagh  as  one  well  known  to  the  people  on  both  sids 
of  the  range,  and  better  known  than  Karakoram,  applie<l  by  them  to  the  poai  of 
that  name.  The  Karakoram  Pass  also  lies  on  an  axis  of  elevation  further  to  tJie 
north  and  intermetliate  l>etween  the  Mustagh  and  Kuenlun. 

2.  Mustagh. — This  axis,  as  1  have  shown  above,  commences  near  Kila  IHmza  io 
Wakhan,  thence  by  the  Baro^hil  and  Kerambar  jMisses  to  the  great  peaks  dominating 
the  Hunza  Valley  to  the  Muslagh  Pass, eastward  by  K;(28,2rj0  ft.),  to  the  great  p«aki 
north  of  tbo  Shnyok,  K,,,  Kj„,  K„,  K,,4  the  Siissar  Pass,  and  thence  south-east  on  lo 
the  Jlarse  Mik  La  and  the  high  mass  north  of  the  Paogkong  Lake,  crossing  at 
Nyak  Tbo  on  to  the  high  range  south  of  the  Rudok  Plain,  where  we  again  eater 
nnsurveyed  groimd.  It  is  probably  continuous  to  the  Aling  Gangri,  the  old 
original  drainage  of  the  Shayok  passing  through  it  at  the  Pangkong  Lake,  thin 
repeating  in  a  similar  way  that  of  the  Indus  through  the  Ladak  range  near  Hanie. 
This  most  remarkable  depression  of  the  whole  area,  the  Kudok  jilain,  lies  south- 
east of  the  Pangkong  Lake,  where,  on  tho  same  meridian  as  tho  sources  of  the 
Indus  and  Sanpu,  we  have  a  plain  ouly  a  little  above  14,000  feet,  which  onoe 
drained  in  glacial  and  pn  glacial  times  into  the  Shayok,  rendering  that  branch 
as  long,  probably  longer  tlum  the  present  Indus.  From  a  high  point  above  the 
Pangkong  I  have  looked  over  this  ^.ilain  ;  for  a  distaoce  of  some  GO  miles  it  was 
seen  boimded  to  the  south  by  mountains  of  over  21,000  leet,  and  no  moantain 
ranges  broke  the  horizon.  The  depression  is  a  broad  ^and  continuous  one  here, 
lower  and  more  extensive  tlian  that  at  the  head  of  the  Indus.  It  is  not  impzobabte 
that  it  indicates  tho  heail-watcr»  of  the  next  great  drainage  area  north  of  the  Inclnii, 
vis.  of  the  rivers  that  find  an  exit  to  the  sea  through  Burmah,  The  Gaug-rhi  sJtd 
Karakoram,  or  Mustagh,  cannot  therefore  be  considertd  as  one  range  separating  the 
Indus  basin  from  that  of  the  northern  or  central  plateau  of  Thibet.     This  must  li« 


*  *  Scientific  Besulta  of  the  Yarkand  Miasion,*  p.  SS, 
+  Stoliczka.,  loc,  cit,  p.  38. 

I  Unknown  and  unnamed  peaks  were  thns  designated  daring  the  progresB  of  the 
triangulation, 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


615 


•croeB  the  IntMid  elevated  plnteftti  that  extends  from  the  KnrAkoram  Pasa^  having 
a  general  parallelism  to  the  Kuenlun  ccrtaiDly  so  far  as  34"  N.  and  long.  82°  E. 

The  cryatallino  limestone  n«ar  the  west  end  of  the  Patigkong  I>ake  would  appear 

to  be  the  game  as  the  similar  limestone  at  Shigar  near  8kardo.     It  comes  in,  too,  on 

he  north  8i<ic  of  the  great  gneissic  axis,  the  norlhem  boundary  of  which  follows 

i  Shayok  river  pretty  closely  from  Tanked  and  Shayok  to  Khapalu.    The  foMings 

i  Ike  gneiss  which  have  caught  up  the  palaeozoic  slates  near  Tank8<5  are  agaia  on 

liift)prest  indicated  by  the  metamorphic  scliiiJts  on  the  Indus  south  of  Kartaksho, 

and  by  those  in  the  flection  south-west  of  Sknrdo, 

2N.  K'lrakoram-Lingzi  Thang  liange. — West  of  the  pass  the  country  is  not 
known.  Eastward  the  line  of  elevation  passes  north  of  the  Dipsang  Plain  to  the 
Compass  La,  and  south  of  the  Lingzi  Thang  Plain,  by  the  Changlung  Burma  La  to 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Kiang  La,  and  thence  atill  further  east  it  may  pass  north 
of  Sarthol  into  Garchethol, 

3.  77ie  Ladak-Gurla  Bange. — This  is  the  best  de6ned,  as  a  continuous  granitoid 
lis,  on  the  east  and  west  of  Leh ;  the  Indus  flows  at  the  base  of  its  escarpment  for 

I  miles,  and  this  line  also  was  not  far  from  the  limit  of  the  ancient  nummulitic 

On  the  west  it  unites  with  the  great  plateau  of  Deosai  and  extends  to  Gilgit. 

be  Indus  drainage  has  cut  through  it  from  south  to  north  into  the  Skardo  basin, 

"and  back  again  to  south  at  the  sharp  bend  at  Bunji,  while  on  the  east  at  Uanl^  the 

nme  river  passes  to  the  north  again,  and  the  range  is  continued  following  the  left  or 

south  bank  up  to  the  Gnrla  Peak,  south  of  the  Mansnrowar  Lake.    Thenoe  it  is 

probably  continuous  up  to  the  Fotu  La. 

2S-  TJte  Skayok'Kailiu, — lliis  subsidiary  axis  is  well  marked  on  the  south  of 
the  Pangkong  LAke  north-west  and  south-east  of  Tanksfi,  running  parallel  to  the 
Ladak  range.  It  Js  then  to  be  followed  westward,  north  of  the  Shayok  river  to  the 
junction  of  the  Basha  Braildoh  rivers,  and  thence  to  Haramosh  and  Raki  Pushi 
peaks,  and  perhaps  through  Yasin  to  Tirich  Mir  on  the  Hindu  Kush.  To  the  east- 
ward from  Sajam  Peak,  the  north  side  of  the  Indus  and  Gartangchu  to  the  Eailaa 
Peak,  thence  very  probably  north  of  the  head-waters  of  the  Brnhmapufra. 

4.  Tlie  Zaskar  Jiatuje. — Where  best  displayed,  is  that  iwrtion  which  lies  south 
of  the  districts  of  that  name  in  Ladak,  and  nmniug  parallel  for  100  miles  with  the 
Jippcr  sources  of  that  large  tributary  of  the  Indus,  the  river  of  the  same  name.    In 

I  the  size  of  the  present  glaciers,  that  fill  the  upi^er  valleys,  this  portion  more  closely 
embles  the  Alps  of  Europe  than  any  other  part  of  the  Himahiyan  chain.     It  is 
ontinurd  to  the  north-west,  past  Dms,  to  the  southern  side  of  the  Deosai  Plains, 

Tthus  coalescing  with  that  great  elevated  mass  of  the  primitive  rocks.  It  is  continued 
to  the  Nanga  Purbet,  2(5,620  feet,  and  it  probably  continues  still  further,  west  of 
tlie  Indus,  the  curve  of  the  range  l)ounib"ng  Swat  and  Bajaur  on  the  north  towards 
Konar,  and  which,  after  the  central  portion,  wo  may  tenn,  at  present,  the  Bajaur 
range.  Taking  it  up  in  a  south-east  direction,  it  bends  slightly  south,  crossing  the 
head  of  the  Bagha  river  by  the  Eotang  Pass  to  that  line  of  lofty  snowy  peaks  seen 

I  from  Simla  and  other  hill  stations  leading  past  Chini  to  the  east  of  the  Suflej,  to 

llibe  famous  peaks  of  Gnngot-rhi,  Nandadevi,  and  Nampa.  To  the  majority  of 
Europeans  who  have  visited  India  this  is  perhaps  the  l>est  kno\vn  portion  of  the' 
Himalayas.  • 

4N'.  TIte  liuksliu  Bitlfjt. — ^Two  secondary  ransies,  more  or  less  connected  with 
the  last,  one  intimately  so  with  an  axis  of  trappa>an  intrusion  of  early  tertiary 
age,  which  from  Dras  to  the  Manaarawa  is  over  400  miles  in  extent,  can  be  followed. 
The  first  is  conspicnous  at  the  Tsomori-rhi  Lake,  Mata  Peak,  20,600  feet,  being  of 
granitic  rock ;  it  is  seen  on  the  west  covere^l  by  the  earlier  sedimentary  formations, 
but  it  can  be  traced  towards  Dras.  and  on  the  south-east  to  the  Imis  La,  curving 


616 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


tbence  towards  the  Leo  Purgial  moss,  the  elevated  tertiary  fonnaticrtw  of  Hoadoi 
coming  in  on  tlie  east. 

4N".  TliP  Stok. — Another  Bubsidiary  and  later  line  of  elevation,  one  I  bad  it 
first  been  inclined  to  disn^ard  in  this  address,  beincj  a  minor  feature  in  oompahfoQ 
with  the  whole  chain,  flanks  conspicuously  (attaining  the  very  coosiderftble  elec- 
tion of  over  20,000  feet)  the  left  bank  of  the  Indus  for  200  miles,  and  Ls  still  more 
intimately  related  to  the  above  trappnean  intrusion.   It  forma  a  connecting  link  witi, 
the  tertiary  rocka  of  the  same  age  on  tho  southern  baae  of  the  Himalayas  (ktMl 
elevation  of  which  led  on  successively  to  the  formation  of  the  outermost  twi*»  of  1 
hills,  the  Sivaliks),  and  shows  the  relatively  recent  date  of  the  elevation  of  tb«  I 
whole  chain,  and  the  obliteration  of  the  toiK)graphical  details  of  a  previous  moofitaio 
mass. 

4N.  Tlie  Baralacfia  Bidqe, — ^This  line  of  elevation  corresponds  with  the  run  of  i 
the  highly  tilted  slates,  carboniferous  and  succeeUing  formations  resting  apiinst  tbe  I 
Zaakar  axis,  which  it  follows  from  near  Sura  to  south  of  Padam  by  the  BaralMlui 
and   Parang  passes;    here,   for    a  short  distance  constituting  the  water-pirthf 
between  the  Indus  and  Chandrabftfrha,  it  own  be  traced  towards  tbe  Sntlej,  Ctici, 
crossing  on  to  tho  Keobrang,  and  in  turn  the  Nilang,  Nitj,  Lakhur,  and  Tinkir 
passes,  displaying  all  along  this   line  its  characteristic  feature,  first  seen  at  the 
Baralacha  Pass,  of  being  the  main  water-i>arting  between  the  Ganges  and  Kali 
basins  on  the  south,  and  the  Indus  on  the  north,  and  constituting  from  here  to  tlio 
eastward,  with  the  peaks  on  the  granitic  or  giieissose  axis,  the  main  Hiroakyan 
rxnge.      In  the  Nipal  area  to  the  eastwatd,  we  notice  the  great   similarity  witjj 
which  one  river  basiu  follows  the  other,  the  only  difference  being  that  the  wstrrsbcdi 
of  some  lie  further  to  the  north  than  others.     We  may  thus,  I  think,  infer  that  Iht 
above  character  of  the  Baralacha  axis  is  tbe  type  of  the  physical  features  along  Uiii 
unsiirveyeti,  little-known  territory,  until  we  reach  the  longitude  of  Darjiling. 

4*.  The  Chtnah  and  North  Kashmir^ — South  of  the  Cheuah  river,  riinnme 
parallel  with  it  for  many  miles,  is  another  gneissic  axis,  through  which  the  Chenal. 
pneses  into  a  sharp  bend  to  the  south  near  Kishtwar;  the  peak  of  Gwalga  wc!! 
marks  its  pdaition  here,  and  the  strike  of  the  same  rock  is  continued  towards  lb* 
noithorn  outer  hills  of  tho  Knshmir  Valley  by  Barrapatta  and  Dal  was  Peak,  oesrtbe 
Iloksar  Pass,  and  the  Maro  Ward  wan  Valley  below  Ainshin.  For  some  distance  llw 
Blratified  rocks  only  are  seen,  but  on  the  Boodpathar  ridge  near  Srinagar  and  in  tjit 
Sind  Valley,  and  again  from  near  Haramook  Peak  to  Tragbul,  the  gneissic  rocb 
api>ear.  Further  still  they  occur  in  the  hills  at  the  head  of  tho  large  tributariaof 
the  Kahrail  river,  and  thence  I  suspect  are  continued  across  the  Eishenguugatotlto 
Snowy  Peaks  above  Wamba  and  into  Khagan.  On  the  south-east  at  the  Botug 
Pass  at  the  bend  of  iho  iJeas  Valley  it  units  with  the  Znskar  axis. 

5.  The  Pir  i'aujal-Dhaoiadhar  liidgfi. — On  the  outer  face  of  the  chain  there  is  i 
weil-marked  gueisaic  or  granitoid  axis.  It  is  well  exemplified  on  the  Dhaoladhir 
ridge  above  Dljannsala,  directly  connected  with,  and  tqmlly  well  diapUycd  in,  tlif 
Chutadhar  ridge  south  of  Budrawar;  thence  it  can  1m3  traced  to  the  Cheuah,  which 
breaks  through  it  here,  to  the  south-east  side  of  the  Kashmir  Valley  ;  forming  the 
eastern  end  of  the  Pir  Panjal  range.  We  find  it  at  intervals  amidst  the  older  sUtw 
along  the  ridge  westwanl,  and  close  up  to  the  g'">rgo  of  the  Jhelum  river,  where  it 
leaves  the  valley  of  Kashmir.  It  reaj^peara  on  the  other  side  of  the  Jbelum  in  ihe 
K;i]oag  ridge  towards  Mozufferabod.  The  gorges  of  the  Kishengunga  and  Khignn 
rivers  are  near  this  place,  and  to  the  westward  the  granitoid  rocks  are  again  me: 
with  at  Manserah  in  the  Hazara  VHlley.  Little  is  known  of  the  mountains  to  ih« 
north  of  this,  but  the  axis  apparently  crosses  the  Indus  near  Amb,  curving  rouiwl 
in  the  Yusufaai  Hills  north  ot  the  Peshawar  Valley,  tbe  Sufedkoh  being  an  analog-xi* 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


617 


I 


Dge  on  the  sonih  of  the  Kabul  river,  Keturning  to  the  Dhaoladbar  ridge, 
he  granitoid  axis  continues  to  Sultanpiir  on  the  Beas  acrosa  that  river,  by  Tuket,  to 
Hatu,  acroea  tlie  Sutlej  to  Kui»er  aiul  Kauchu  peaks,  and  tbe  well-known  peak  of 
the  Chor.  Nag  Tiba,  north  of  Mussoorie(Mju'iuri),  would  mark  its  eastern  extension, 
■beneath  the  slates  of  that  ridge,  and  beyond  Dudatoli  and  Biusar  peaks,  and  Almora 
to  the  Kali  river,*  near  3Ieenda  Gbur.  Tliis  axis  thus  holds  the  same  position  with 
regard  to  the  plains  of  India  and  at  about  the  same  distance  from  their  base  for  a 
very  great  distance. 

6.  The  Suh-IJimalat/a.— This  longitudinal  sectiou  of  the  Himalaya  is  easily 
defined  by  the  fringing  line  of  hills  more  or  leas  broad,  and  in  places  very  distinctly 
marked  off  from  the  main  chain  by  o|ien  valleys  {d?mna),  or  narrow  valleys  parallel 
■with  the  main  axis  of  the  chain. 

TAtf  Ensttm  nimalaya. — In  Western  Bhutan,  beyond  Darjiling,  between  the 
JiUdoka  and  the  Am  Mocbu,  the  gneissic  rocks  have  a  north-west  strike  by  the  Pango 
La,  apparently  towards  Kancliinjunga;  to  the  south-east  by  Betso  Peak  to  the 
6ingchuia  above  Buxa,  Hooker  records  Kanchinjunga  as  of  granite,  with  stratified 
rocks  to  the  north.  This  axis  may  fiossibly  be  continued  E.S.E.  to  Chumala-rhi  and 
the  gneiss  of  the  mouiitaina  north  nf  Paro. 

In  the  far  east,  in  the  Dafla  Hills,  a  more  general  parallelism  of  tbe  ranges  from 
west  to  east  is  found,  assimilating  to  the  north-west  area,  A  well-marked  granitoid 
axis  is  to  be  traced  from  south-west  to  north-east  (the  outer  Himalaya  here),  convex 
to  the  south-east,  the  tertiaries  of  the  Sub-Himalaya  being  of  considerable  breadth 
and  elevation,  and  following  the  same  curve.  Considerable  valleys  or  dhuna  are  also 
again  a  feature  on  this  side. 

Lastly,  there  is  the  Assam  range,  which,  although  not  forming  a  part  of  the 
Himalayan  mountain  system,  I  must  allude  to,  as  1  shtUl  have  to  refer  to  it  further 
on.  This  is  very  clearly  defined  by  a  gneissic  axis  on  its  southern  margin,  against 
which  the  secondary  rocks  rest,  and  by  a  more  northern  line  of  the  same  primitive 
rock  succeeded  by  another  of  isolated  low  hills  following  the  northern  base  and  the 
course  of  the  Brahmaputra,  and  generally  lying  to  the  north  of  it.  The  last  outcrop 
is  seen  at  Dhoobri,  and  thence  it  is  no  doubt  continuous  acroBS  the  delta  to  similar 
outcrops  of  Bengal  gneiss  on  the  Ganges,  thus  connecting  this  axis  of  elevation  with 
that  of  peninsular  India.  'ITie  above  range  is  convex  to  the  south,  cur\ing  up 
to  the  north-east  in  the  Lhota  2saga  and  Nowgong  Hills,  and  to  the  W.N.W.  in  the 
Garo  Hilhi. 

The  Burnul  range  forms  another  subsidiary  line  of  elevation  to  the  above  from 
the  Noga  Hills  to  Jaintiapur,  and  falls  away  dipping  under  the  Sylhet  5/a7s,t  to  reap- 
pear at  the  moat  south-west  point  of  the  Garo  Hills.  From  its  highest  point  in  the 
Xaga  Hills  (Japvo),  where  the  stjata  become  nearly  horiz.outAl,  it  merges  into  and 
throws  off  the  high  north  and  soulh  ridges  that  bound  the  Munipur  Valley  on  the 
west,  to  join  the  Lushai  Hills  on  the  south.  This  I  would  call  the  Western  Munipur 
and  Arakan  range.  It  has  no  gninitoid  axis ;  but  to  the  north-east  of  Munipur  a 
'zreat  mass  of  inlmsive  rock  occui-s  at  the  high  i^cak  of  Slmruifurar,  and  thence  a 
high  line  of  elevation  runs  N.N.E.  to  Sar^nacthi  Peak,  and  to  the  south  forms  the 
Eastern  Iwundary  of  the  Munipur  Valley,  and  might  be  called  the  Eastern 
Munipur  range — it  is  the  water-parting  between  tbe  above  valley  and  that  of  the 
Kyangdweng. 

We  can,  in  a  meagnre,  exemplify  the  structure  of  the  Himalaya  by  that  of  the 


♦  Captnin  B,  Slrachty,  e.e.,  p.o.s.,  1851. 
t  jPA»Yor>//«Y— Hind.,  a  marsh. 

No.  X,— Oct.  1883.] 


2   8 


«18 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


bones  of  tbe  right  hand,  with  fingers  noGch  elongated  and  stretched  wid«  apt 
■which  the  wrist  and  back  may  represent  the  broader  belt  of  granitic  rocks  of  tha, 
eastern  area»  the  thumb  and  fingers  tbe  more  or  less  continuous  ridges  of  the  Dorth«| 
west,  some  less  prolon;j;ed  than  others  to  the  north-west,  such  as  the  Chor  axis,  whictl 
may  be  representeti  by  the  thumb,  temninutiug  on  the  southern  margin  near  tlj 
Sutlej.  The  left  hand  placed  opix>site  will  represent  the  same  features  to  tbe  vrett  of^ 
the  Indus.    We  will  even  carry  this  simile  further,  and  as  a  rough  illaatxatiOD  Wjh  j 
pose  the  intervals  or  long  basins  between  tiio  fingers  to  be  filled  with  sedimentary 
deposits,  and  the  fingers  thea  to  be  brought  closer  togetlier,  producing  a  crushing 
and  crumpling  of  the  strata.    At  the  same  time  an  elevation  or  depression,  first  of  ] 
one  or  more  of  the  fingers,  then  of  another  or  of  the  whole  band  has  taken  pUce,  lud 
you  are  presented  with  very  much  what  has  gone  on  upon  a  grand  scale  over  thid 
vast  area.  As  these  changes  of  level  have  not  taken  place  along  the  whole  range  from 
east   to  west  in  an  equal  extent,  but  uiK)n  certain  transverae  or  diagonal  linei, 
undulations  more  or  less  great  have  been  the  result,  and  some  formations  have 
attained  a  higher  position  in  some  places  than  in  others,  producing,  very  early  in  tbe 
history  of  these  mountains,  a  transverse  system  of  drainage  lines,  leading  throogb 
the  long  axial  ridges. 

The  last  efibrts  of  these  rising,  sinking,  and  lateral  crushing,  and,  as  I  believe, 
very  slowly  acting  forces,  are  to  be  seen  at  the  southern  face  of  these  mountains  in 
the  tertiary  strata  that  make  up  the  Sub- Himalayan  axis  (Sivalik),  a  tofographical 
feature  which  is  most  striking  by  reason  of  its  persistence  and  uniformity  for  soem 
1600  miles ;  for,  although  a  similar  and  synchronal  elevation  of  the  Alps  has  taken 
place,  the  same  regularity  of  orograpljical  features  has  not  been  the  result,  mnt 
probably  from  the  difference  in  the  original  outline  of  deposition  in  the  latter  area. 
One  object  in  this  address  will  be  to  endeavour  to  point  out  and  compare  some  of  tbo 
physical  features  of  the  two  great  Eurojiean  and  Asiatic  cliains. 

From  Assam  on  the  east  to  the  Pnnjab  on  the  west,  bending  round  and  extend- 
ing to  Scinde,  this  fringing  line  of  parallel  ridges  is  found  at  the  base  of  ibe 
Himalayas,  sometimes  higher,  sometimes  wider,  often  forming  elliptical  talleyB. 
Only  in  one  part  of  the  belt  east  of  tbe  Tecsta  are  they  absent  altogether,  and 
for  a  distance  of  GO  miles  the  metamorphic  rocks  rise  directly  from  the  plaiiu 
of  India,*  a  feature  representing  a  great  break — the  correct  interjjretation  of  which 
will  tell  us  very  much  of  the  past  history  of  these  mountains.  These  formatioa 
are  of  vast  thickness,  and  in  the  Panjab,  where  they  attain  their  greatest  widti 
and  elevation  between  the  Chenab  and  the  Indus,  cover  an  ai'ea  of  13,000  aqmro 
miles. 

The  whole  of  this  material  has  been  derived  from  the  adjacent  Himalayw, 
representing  many  feet  of  the  older  and  higher  mountain  ranges,  and  has  travelled 
down  valleys  that  hatl  been  excavated  in  pre-tertiary  times.  This  points  to  a  aim 
subsidence  of  the  whole  southern  side  of  the  mountain  mass,  deposition  genenUj 
keeping  pace  with  it,  broken  ofi"  by  recurring  long  intervals  of  re-elevation.  Such 
important,  well-marked  features  as  these  cannot  be  omitted  when  treating  of  3 
mountain  system.  Many  long  and  instructive  pages  of  its  history  are  written  on  tiicw 
rooks,  with  the  help  of  which  we  may  reconstruct  some  of  the  outlines  of  its  more 
ancient  geography. 

The  next  most  interesting  feature  connected  with  the  former  distribution  of 
land  and  sea  is  that  these  Sub-Himalayan  formations  are  fresh-water,  or  torreiitiaJ, 
showing  that  since  nummuUtic  or  eocene  times  the  sea  has  never  washed  the  bftstof 


•  Godwin-Austen,  J.  A.  S.  B.,  18C7,  p.  117. 
India,'  Medlicott,  vol.  iv.  pp.  392  and  435. 


<  Memoirs  of  the  Geological  Booietj  rf 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


619 


the  Himalayas.*  In  fact,  there  i«  no  evidence  of  this  from  the  gorge  whore  tlio 
Cfangea  lertvea  the  mountains  up  to  the  base  of  the  Garo  HilU;  pointing  to  an  ex- 
tension northward  at  that  early  age  of  the  Arabian  Sea»  stjparated  from  tlio  Bay  u( 
Bengal  by  peninBular  India,  I  am  led  alao  to  klieve  that  from  Assam  to  Scinde 
there  once  existed  one  continuous  drainage  lioe,  a  great  river  receiving  ita  tributaries 
from  the  Himalayas,  partly  a  land  of  lakes  and  mrxi-ehes,  the  home  of  that  wonderful 
maramalian  acd  reptilian  fauna  which  Cautley  and  Falconer  were  the  first  to  bring 

I  to  light.  In  pliocene  times,  before  the  greater  disjilacementa  commenced,  it  is  nut 
nnUkely  that  the  Kashmir  Basin  drained  at  the  north-west  end  into  the  ELishingnnga 
Valley  to  MorafiFerabad,  and  that  of  Hundes  and  Ladak  trended  towards  the  same 
direction  via  Dras. 

The  southern  boundary  of  this  long  alluvial  plain  was  formal  by  the  present 
peninsula  of  India,  and  probably  of  the  extension  of  the  Garo  and  Khasi  Uills 
westward  to  the  Kajnmhal  Hills.t  Depression  hiis  been  considerable  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Calcutta,!  Learly  500  feet.  We  know  probably  only  a  portion  of  the 
alluvial  deposits.     At   380  feet  beds  of  peat  were  passed  through  in  boring,  and 

[  the  lowest  beds  contained  fresh- water  shells;  tlio  beds  also  were  of  such  a  gravelly 
nature  as  to  indicate  the  neighbourhood  of  hills,  now  buried  beneath  the  Ganges 
alluvium.  This  is  precisely  ibe  appearauce  of  the  country  above  Calcutta  on 
approaching  the  present  valley  of  the  Brahmaputra.  The  western  termination  of 
the  Graro  Uills  sinks  into  these  later  nlluvial  dei)o&its,  and  along  the  southern  face 
of  the  range  up  to  Sylhet,  the  waters  of  the  man>bes,§  during  the  rainy  season  wash 
the  numniulitic  rocks  like  an  inland  sea,  and  point  to  the  very  recent  depression  of 
all  tnis  aioa.  The  isolated  granite  hill-tops  jutting  up  out  of  the  marshy  country 
from  Dhoobri  to  Gwalpara  and  on  to  Tezpur  all  testily  to  the  same  continuous 
depression  here.  It  is  exactly  north  of  this  that  we  find  tho  Sivalik  formations 
absent  at  the  base  of  the  Himalayas,  and  we  liave  the  evidence  of  exclusively  marine 
conditions  in  pliocene  times  at  the  base  of  the  Garo  Hills.  H  Wc  find  also  a  large 
development  of  marine  bods  above  the  numnuilitic  limestoue  in  the  Jaintia  country,^ 
passing  up  conformably  into  a  great  tbickucsii  of  ujiper  mioceue  sandstones  of  the 
Burrail  range.  In  such  sandstone  north  of  the  Muntpur  valley  the  only  fossils  I 
found  were  marine  forms. 

This  gradual  depression  of  the  delta  of  tho  Ganges,  the  relative  higher  level  of 
the  water-parting  and  shifting  of  the  Pniijab  rivers  westward,  appear  to  be  only 
tho  last  phase  of  that  ^x^et- pliocene  disturbunce  which  broke  up  the  Assam  Sub- 
Himalayan  lacustrine  system  draining  into  the  Arabian  Sea.  Zoological  evidence 
which  I  cannot  hero  find  space  to  quote  is  also  in  favour  of  this  former  connection 
of  the  now  separated  waters  of  the  Ganges  uud  Indus  basins,  and  the  hill  tracts  of 
the  Garo  and  Khasi  Hills  with  jx-niusular  India. 

The  ground  where  the  miocene  rocks  are  abi-eul  is  not  where  any  denuding 
force  from  the  north  could  have  acted  with  any  libuormal  intensity.  It  lies  under 
the  hills  where  no  great  tributary  enters  tbo  plain,  and  might  have  removed  tho 
above  formation.  All  the  evidence  is  in  favour  of  the  axis  line  of  depression  in  tho 
<}angC8  delta  between  Ilajmahal  and  the  Garu  Hills  extending  thus  far,  and  that  tbo 
ntiocene  beds,  once  continuous,  are  here  thus  lost  to  sight  beneath  tho  more  recent 


♦  Blanford  and  Medlicott,  loc.  cit.  p.  393. 

t  Bhmford  and  Medlioott,  'Memoirs  of  tbe  Geological  Society  of  India,'  p.  31. 

J  Loc.  cit.  p.  397. 

§  Fur  a  very  excellent  aocomit  see  H(x>kcr's  '  Iluuulayan  Jotumala,'  pp.  263-265. 

II  Colebrooke, '  Geological  TranBactioug,'  voL  i.  p.  135. 

^  H.  H.  Godwin-Austen,  J.  A.  S,  B.,  1869,  pp.  12  aud  152. 

2  s  2 


620 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOORAPHICAL  SECTION 


yet  extensive  gravels  and  conglomerates  that  hero  occur,  and  have  partaken  also  of  a 
last  slight  elevation  of  the  nioutittvin  chain. 

Even  if  we  were  to  raise  the  rwka  below  the  delta  up'  to  the  maximnm  level  of 
the  Garo  Hills,  about  4000  feet,  it  Avould  not  he  a  greater  alteration  of  level  than  wo 
can  see  now  a  very  few  miles  dtatant  to  the  east.  The  base  of  the  cretaceous  formation 
rests  on  granite  at  the  peak  of  Kailas,  about  3«XH>  feet  above  the  sea;  at  30  miles 
eastward  it  is  at  the  level  of  the  plains  of  Sylhet,  scarcely  removed  above  that  level: 
it  ia  here  we  find  a  remarkable  depression  right  across  the  Assam  range  from  north  to 
south,  which  it  is  curious  to  note  faces  immediately  the  Mooass  valley  of  the  Bhutan 
Himalaya. 

Great  lateral  rolls  or  waves  of  the  Ktrrvtified  rocka  occur  at  intervals  all  along  the 
Bouthem  line  of  the  chain,  aod  apparently  have  a  connection  with  the  transverse 
drainage  lines.  This  feature  is  beat  seon  if  we  follow  the  older  miooene  along  itj 
junction  with  the.  older  rocks.  The  miocene  attaina  its  greatest  elevation  at  Bisari 
and  Keeran  peaks — 11,200  feet— close  to  the  end  of  the  Pir  Panjal  axis ;  it  falU 
thence  towards  Mari  to  7000  feet,  and  much  lower  towards  the  Potwar.  Eastwanis 
it  is  reduced,  above  Poonch,  9900  feet;  near  Rajaurie  to  7000  feet,  and  Kamrot 
6700  feet  —  or  a  fall  of  450O  feet  in  50  miles.  The  elevation  increases  again, 
upon  the  Chenab,  to  8000  and  9500  feet ;  and,  facing  the  Chatadhar  rid^e,  it  is 
again  of  great  elevation — 0096  feet  at  Hato  Peak,  and  ^Maiidhar  8932  feet.  At 
the  Ravi,  by  Basaoli,  there  is  a  depression,  enst  of  that  river,  to  40<X)  feet,  but  it 
gradually  rises  s^ain  to  ClOO  feet  at  Dburunisala,  under  the  Dhaoladhar  ridpe,  and 
retains  that  altitude  to  the  Beas  and  Sutlej,  where  it  falls  aj»aiu  to  40i>3  feet, 
which  is  its  altitude  jvbout  Nahun  and  the  Jumna.  In  the  Deyra  Dhun  it  is 
only  3000  feet,  but  cast  of  the  Gauges,  where  there  is  a  local  bend  in  the  strite, 
it  rises  again  considerably.  Beyond  this  the  country  has  not  been  visited  by  me. 
In  the  eastern  area,  under  Parjiling,  it  is  of  little  elevation,  but  rises  to  about 
4000  feet,  disappearing  nltosethcr  near  Dalingkote,  but  ucar  Buxa  the  forroatit*) 
reappears,  and  is  only  some  2000  feet.  Nothing  is  knowTi  of  the  older  tertiary 
rocks  np  to  the  Aka  and  Dafla  Hills,  but  Ijcre  they  attain  again  large  propoitionif — 
4700  feet  west  of  the  rJan<:a  to  GOOO  feet  beyond  that  river.  South  of  the  Aasatn 
range,  miocene  strata,  a  distinct  group,  attain  1500  feet,  but  are  poorly  represenlcti 
in  places.  At  other  ]>ointp,  as  near  the  8ylhet  hhih,  they  are  absent.  Near  Jaintiapnr 
they  expand  and  reach  au  altitude  uf  30OO  feet.  South  of  the  Lukah  river  ihe 
•whole  mass  gradually  rises  to  5000  feet  near  Asahi,  and  to  9890  at  Japvo  Peak, 
its  culminating  point  in  the  Naga  Plills ;  but  these  formations  are,  I  believe,  marine 
and  estuaritie.  The  great  elevation  of  tertiary  rocks  hero  is  the  exact  counterpart  f*( 
what  has  taken  place  on  the  west,  and  both  are  on  the  great  changes  of  strike  in  all 
the  formations. 

Within  the  mountains  in  the  old  rock  basins — and  these  are  analogous  to  the 
valleys  of  the  Alps — are  pliocene  and  post-jtliocene  beds  of  great  thicknesSi  but 
of  fresh-water  origin  ;  the  remnants  of  whicli  are  to  be  seen  in  Kashmir  and 
Skardo  at  intervals,  along  the  valley  of  the  Indus,  and  that  large — now  elevaieij 
— accumulation  at  the  head  of  the  Sutlej  river  in  Hundes,  first  brought  to 
notice  by  the  labours  of  Captain  (now  General)  R.  Strachey.  The  remnants  of 
these  deposits  in  Kashmir  and  Skardo  are  found  preserved  in  the  more  8beltere<l 
portions  of  the  valley  basins,  untouched  by  the  denuding  action  during  the  glacial 
period — the  exixiucDts  ]>rescnted  to  us  of  the  enormous  denudation  that  went  on 
during  Ihe  poat-plioceue  times,  of  which  the  glacial  period  formed  a  part.  Tlie 
extent  and  displacement  of  the  upjxT  pliocene  bods  is  in  North  Italy  and  here 
veiy  similar.  Often  abutting  horizontally  against  the  mountains,  they  are  in 
other  places  found  tilted  at  considerable  angle  on  the  margin  of  their  original 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


621 


extension.  When  we  cxamiue  their  contents,  we  find  thai  tlie  fauna  of  that  time 
in  Asia,  as  well  as  Europe,  was  more  African  in  character,  and  genera  now  conGned 
to  that  continent  were  abundant  far  to  the  nyrth.  The  sluggish  rivers  and  lakes 
of  Sivalik  times  in  Asia  and  of  the  correspond iog  periofl  in  Europe  were  the  homo 
of  the  hippopotamus,  crocodiles,  and  tortoises,  of  which  the  common  crocodile,  the 
gavial,  or  long-suouted  8{^>ecie8,  and  an  emys  have  survived  the  many  geological 
ch.anges,  and  stilt  inhabit  the  rivers  and  low  grounds  of  India  to-diiy.  The  fresh- 
water shells  are  still  the  same  now  as  then.  Many  species  of  antelope  lived  in 
the  neighbouring  plains  and  uplands;  the  eic'itliant  wa<j  there  in  the  zenith  of  iu 
existence,  for  no  less  than  thirteen  s|M»cies  have  been  found  fossil  in  Northern  India  ; 
but  it  is  impossible  in  a  short  a<.ldrcsa  to  enumerate  the  richness  of  this  fauna,  and 
the  extreme  interest  tliat  surrounds  it. 

Miocene  f)/  Kuropftin  Area. — If  we  now  turn  to  Europe  to  compare  fonnations 
of  similar  age,  Lombardy  and  the  valley  of  the  Po,  -^ith  the  southern  side  of  the 
Alj«,  presents  to  us  somewhat  similar  physical  features,  A  large  area  of  about 
the  size  of  the  oorth-wc*t  Patijab,  ouce  a  part  of  the  miocene  sea,  is  occupied  by  a 
remnant  of  rocks  of  that  age,  considerably  elevated  and  tilted,  but  not  to  such  an 
extent  as  those  of  the  Himalayas.  Near  Turin  these  dip  towards  the  mountains, 
and  a  very  short  examtnatioa  .shows  the  undoubted  glacial  character  of  some  of  the 
beds;*  and,  as  the  whole  formation  is  marine,  their  large  sharply  •angular  material, 
much  of  which  is  Jurassic  limestoue,  was  proba!)ly  transported  from  the  adjacent 
mountains  by  the  agency  of  ice  in  a  shallow  sc.a.t  After  the  great  crushing  and 
alteration  of  the  previous  outlines  of  the  whole  country  another  sea  filled  the  basin 
of  the  Po,  and  pliocene  deposits  were  laid  down  in  a  sinking  area  extending  to  the 
base  of  the  mountains  all  round  the  new  bay  or  gulf,  Ee-elevation  again  set  in, 
lod  with  it,  or  soon  after  it,  the  advent  of  another,  and  the  last,  glacial  period. 
But  tlie  boimds  of  the  pliucfno  sea  extendwi  even  farther  than  the  base  of  the 
mountains.  At  the  south  end  of  tlie  Ljigo  d'Orta,  well  within  the  hilb,  sheltering 
under  the  isolated  |xjrphyry  hill  of  Buccione,  and  280  feet  above  the  present  lake 
(or  1500  feet  above  the  sea),  J  had  the  good  fortune  to  discover  this  summer  a 
patch  of  pliocene  sands  and  clays,  with  marine  shells  in  excellent  preservation, 
which  I  am  not  aware  has  been  noticed  before.  Sixty-four  feet  of  the  section  is 
exposed,  capped  by  moraine  matter;  its  ba.se  was  not  seen,  and  the  beds  dip  north. 
This  remnant  tells  us  a  good  deal.  From  where  it  rests  there  is  a  clear  horizon  to 
the  north  down  the  lake  to  the  junction  of  its  river  with  the  T<ice — unmistakable 
evidence  llmt  these  bed.s  must  have  extended  far  in  this  northern  direction,  and  that 
long  fiord-like  arms  of  the  sea  stretched  up  as  fjir  as  Dorau  d'Ossola  on  one  side,  and 
BoUinzona  on  the  other.  This  marine  bed  is  far  above  the  level  of  the  Lago 
Maggiore,  but  I  may  mention  that  I  also  found  marine  shells  of  pleistocene  age  112 
feet  above  that  lake  near  Arona,  of  which  details  cannot  here  l>e  given. 

Before  the  last  great  elevation  of  tlie  Alpine  chain  the  old  line  of  sea-coast, 
therefore,  ran  even  high  up  the  long  deep  valleys  of  Mnggiore,  Como,  Garda,  &c., 
during  the  early  j>liocene  jperiod ;  the  mountains  then,  quite  as  high  as  now,  enjoying 
a  warm,  moist  climate,  not  a  glacial  one.  Then  came  the  gradual  but  uneven 
elevation  of  the  whole  area,  including  the  miocene  hills  south  of  the  Po,  and  lacus- 


•  Refer  to  Gostaldi. 

t  No  trace  ha«  been  observed  of  this  glacis!  peri<»d  in  the  miocene  of  India;  the 
most  lofty  portions  of  the  chain  had  not  then  r»tt^ine<l  a  greater  elevation  probably  than 
14,000  to  18,000  ftx't,  and  tlie  outer  axis  Hues  fur  b'sa.  However,  in  tho  tertiary  bods 
(miildlc  eocene?)  of  the  Indus  Vfdlcy  below  Leli,  such  conditions  arc  indicated  by 
Lydtkkor.  'Memoirs  of  Geolugical  Survey  of  InJin,'  vol.  xxii.  p.  lOi,  which  I  have 
received  since  this  address  was  sent  to  press. 


+-,an  pft^^i  ,  •n^'^rt'^tt  o\  ^i^^      ,„,  •    idea  VBr^'"-       .v   ^f  tbo  btt°"     .^^n©  tim«» 

Pt  it'Cr'i-  •"";  „"  "  •>»  ''•?  ,S ,~  » ■"T>C^*  •' 


) 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOaATIOK.  '  623 

gigantic  scouring  which  glaciers  hftve  effected  on  the  hardest  rocks  in  the  sides  and 
bottoms  of  valleys,  when  wc  know  for  certain  the  enormous  thickness  they  reached 
in  the  Alps^  I  do  not  donbt  for  a  moment  their  capability  of  deepening  a  rock  basin 
▼ery  considerably,  or  their  power  to  move  forward  over  and  against  slopes  so  low  as 
2»  to  3*.' 

The  earliest  extreme  extension  of  the  glaciers  was  very  great ;  wo  have  evidence 
of  it  on  the  miocene  hills  near  Turin,  their  surface  being  scattered  over  with  trans- 
ported material  of  great  size,  quite  unconnected  with  that  other  ancient  period  of 
glacial  conditions  during  the  miocene  times,  mentioned  above,  at  a  period  too  remote 
to  further  dwell  uj»on  here.  Even  now  I  feel  that  in  dealing  with  this  subject  of  the 
glaciation  of  the  Alps,  many  of  you  mny  say  that  I  am  departing  too  much  from 
geography.  To  this  I  would  answer,  glacial  iwrioda  have  been  so  intimately  con- 
nected with  the  interchange  of  sea  and  land  conditions,  that  where  can  the  line  be 
diawn  in  physical  geography  between  the  past  and  the  present  ?  It  is  as  undefined 
as  the  line  which  separates  species  from  genera. 

An  enormous  interval  of  time  must  have  elapsed,  during  which  the  cold  was 
increasing  and  the  glaciers  advancing,  and  during  which  the  rivers  were  distributing 
the  consequent  waste  over  the  lower  country,  spreading  out  the  more  or  less  coarse 
material,  sands  and  clays,  in  broad  fans  in  front  of  all  the  great  gorges.  Then  came 
the  first  i«riod  of  contraction  of  the  glaciers,  with  many  oscillations.  Of  this  we 
have  the  evidence  in  the  moraines  of  Ivrea,  Maggiore,  &c.  Sections  of  these  moraines 
show  how  they  were  piled  the  one  npon  the  other ;  how  the  building  up  of  one  line 
of  lateral  moraine  was  followed  by  its  partial  destruction  on  another  forward  move- 
ment of  the  ice,  and  the  throwing  down  of  another  moraine  upon  it.  Then  were 
fomied  many  of  the  smaller  lakes,  remains  of  which  lie  amid  the  debris  thrown  out 
into  the  plain.  The  glaciers  retained  this  size  for  a  very  considerable  time,  and  then 
apparently  very  rapidly  retreated  to  far  within  the  mountains,  but  still  for  another 
considerable  period  their  dimensions  were  much  larger  than  those  of  the  present  time, 
into  which  they  seem  to  have  again  rather  rapidly  shrunk. 

Passing  from  the  glacial  action  displayed  in  the  outer  Alps  to  that  in  the  Hima- 
laya, we  find  ample  evidence  of  a  }>eriod  of  great  extension  of  such  oouditions,  first  in 
the  erratics  of  the  Attock  Plain  and  the  rotwar,t  lyiog  50  to  60  miles  from  the  gorge 
of  the  Indus  at  Torbela.  We  have  again  the  fact  that  in  Baltiatan,  in  the  Indus 
valley,  glaciers  have  twice  descended  far  beyond  their  present  limits,  first  down  to 
Skardo  itisclf,  and  then  to  some  30  miles  below  their  present  limits;  while  the  glaciers 
of  Xanga  Purbet,  towering  above  the  Indus  some  22,000  feet,  must  have  descended 
into  the  bed  of  that  river.  Even  allowinpr  that  the  Polwar  was  not  formerly  a 
lacustrine  basin,  the  great  dchades  from  the  mountains  would  have  l>oen  .sufficient  to 
convey  erratics  fixed  in  ice  to  where  the}'  now  lie*  Cataclysms  of  the  present  time, 
caused  by  glacial  obstructions,  have  raised  the  level  of  the  Indus  on  the  plain  above 
Att<«k  so  much  as  80  fcot.  When  the-^  glaciers  were  more  than  double  their  present 
size,  gigantic  floods  must  have  otten  taken  place,  aa*!  formed  boulder  de|xjsils  high 
above  present  levels  ;  snch  high  level  gravels  are  to  be  seen  not  only  in  the  Potwar, 
but  also  in  the  Naosbera  Dhun  on  the  R:\jaurie  Tawi  river,  containing  boulders  of 
nummulitic  limestone  and  other  rocks  of  the  Pir  Panjal  on  the  north. 


*  There  appears  to  be  too  great  an  Rflvooacy,  on  the  one  hand,  of  ice  acti-in  liavii 
done  all  the  work  nf  denudation ;  wliili;,  on  the  other,  some  writers  consider  this  to  haTO 
been  extremely  limited  ;  it  in  the  combinaliuu  of  the  two  forces,  I  think,  that  efteots  so 
much  and  iu  so  different  a  manner  and  degree. 

t  A.  Verohiie,  J.  Asiat,  S.  Bengal,  lStJ7,  pp.  113-114;  Theobald,  •Raoonia  of  the 
Geological  Society  of  India,'  1877,  p.  140, 


»3H 


b. 


624 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION,  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


Again,  north  of  the  Chntadhar  ridgCj  small  glaciers,  five  to  six  miles  in  Ifiagih,  it 
one  time  filled  the  lateral  valleys,  descending  towards  the  Chenab  river  to  about  i>000 
feet ;  and  a  very  perfect  xnoraine  occurs  in  one  valley.  This  ground  must  be  very 
Bimilar  to  tliat  which  has  been  describe<l  Ity  Theobald  as  occurring  in  the  otijaocnl 
Kangra  district*  on  tlie  flanks  of  the  Dliaoladbar  ridge.  Similar  small  glacjrr* 
existed,  I  believe,  in  the  valleys  of  the  Kajnag  raogc,  but  I  think  that  neither  in  thi« 
range  nor  in  Budrawa  did  they  ever  descend  into  the  main  valleys;  but  the  exitflcoce 
of  these  gkcierg,  tozetiier  with  the  large ssnow-beds,  had  much  to  do  with  the  forma- 
tion of  the  bigli-level  gravel-beds  and  fans  through  which  the  Jhelum  and  Ch<mab 
have  since  cut  their  way. 

In  fact,  examples  of  the  former  extension  of  glaciers  are  wide-spread  along  the 
chain  of  the  Himalayas  from  west  to  east.  True  moraines,  and  moraine-mound&,  at 
10,000  feet  on  the  north  side  of  the  Baralasa  Pass,  attest  the  presence  of  glacien 
on  the  elevated  plain  of  Rukshu,  where  now  the  suow-Iine  is  over  20,000  feet.t 
Drew  gives  much  vnlnable  information  regarding  their  former  size.J  On  the  ea»t,  in 
Sikkim,  Sir  Jost^ph  Hwker  §  has  described  moraines  of  great  height  (700  feet)  and 
txtent.D  Still  further  aouth  and  east,  in  the  Naga  Hilla,  a  short  period  of  greater 
cold  is  indicated  by  the  moraine  detritus  under  the  loftiest  portion  of  the  liurrail 
range  in  btitude  25''  30'.t 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  length  of  tlie  glacial  j>eriod  in  the  Alps — ^and  it  w.i* 
very  considerable— in  the  Himalayas  it  cannot  have  l^en  so  long  and  so  gcnenil, 
although^  to  a  cert^iin  extent,  contempomneous. 

In  the  Alps  glaciation  meets  the  eye  on  every  side,  and  the  mountains,  up  to  » 
distinct  level,  owe  their  furm  and  outline  to  its  great  and  universal  extension. 

In  the  Himalayas  it  is  difficult  to  trace  polished  surfaces  or  striaa  markings, even 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  largest  glaciers  that  are  now  advancing  in  full  aclivitj. 
It  has  been  suggested  that  obliteration  is  the  result  of  more  powerful  denudating 
forces,  but  the  conditions  arc  not  so  very  dissimilar  in  the  high  Alps  and  high  Hinia- 
bya  as  to  warrant  this  ;  and  wherever  the  itldest  atrtnj  marks  occur  in  the  Himalaya, 
they  are  situatetl  near  the  bed  of  the  valley.  It  may  interest  you  if  I  give  an  illus- 
tration or  two  of  the  size  of  these  present  glaciers  as  compared  with  those  of  tli« 
Alps.  The  Baltoro  glacier  would  extend,  if  placed  in  the  Toce  valley,  from  the 
Simplon  to  the  margin  of  the  Lago  Mag;;iore ;  or  take  another  illustration  of  ila 
length,  from  Mont  Blanc  to  Chfitillou  in  the  Valle  d'Aoata. 

Although  of  such  great  length,  these  Himalayan  glaciers  could  never  have  reached 
the  enormous  thickness  which  the  earlier  Alpine  glaciers  attained.  This  may  tbtw 
be  accountetl  for  :  in  the  European  area  a  generally  low  temi>eratLire  prevailed  down 
to  the  sen-level,  while  in  the  Himalayan  it  was  local,  and  confined  to  a  higher  level. 
It  la  evidi'ut  that  the  snow-line  ims  altered — higher  at  one  jwriod,  lower  at  another— 
down  to  recent  times,  denoting  changes  of  the  mean  annual  temperature,  which  aru 
not  yet  fully  understood,  but  have  been  attributed  to  a  very  far  distant  distributiua 
or  alterations  of  land,  sea,  and  the  ocean  currents. 


•  Thef>balJ,  *  Becords  of  the  Geological  Society  of  India.'  1874.  p.  8C. 

t  North  of  the  Karakorain,  in  that  now  arid  country,  ^^rcat  tuomiui  a  are  fouml  in 
the  valleys  that  descend  into  the  Kumkn.vb,  iu  the  neigh hourlnxxl  of  the  Sujet  Pn 
17,600  feet    (Harold,  God  win- Austen  iu  Epit.) 

t  •  The  Jummoo  and  Kushmir  Territories,' 

§  'lliiiialayan  Jouruala,'  vol.  i.  p.  '22]. 

II  The  LquiToJeuts,  althouf^h  very  ^timll,  of  such  moroiues  are  to  be  seen  ia.  the  AIp« 
on  the  Simplon  jutting  out  into  the  vallt  y. 

^  Godwiu-Auflteo,  J.  A.  B.  B ,  1875,  p.  209.- 


5r£?r  BOOKS. 


625 


T«ro  periods  of  glacial  extension  are  clearly  defined,  separated  by  a  milder  interval 
tif  climate :  during  the  earlier  glacial  j>oriod  the  Indus  valley  was  filled  with  those 
extensive  lacustrine  and  fluviutilc  de|x)3ita,  mixed  with  lai-ge  angular  debris,  such  aa 
ire  see  at  Skardo,  which  may  be  cooral  with  the  extreme  extension  of  the  Alpine 
erratics  so  far  aa  the  miocene  hills  south  of  Turin. 

The  second  pertcxl  followed  after  a  long  interval  of  denudation  of  the  aame 
teds,  and  would  correspond  with  the  Inst  extension  of  the  great  moraine,  of  Ivrcii, 
paggiore,  Como,  &c.,  followed  by  a  final  retreat  to  nearly  present  smaller  dimensions. 
N"owhere  un  the  south  face  of  the  Ilimalaya  do  we  (ind  valleya  presenting  any 
reatttres  similar  to  those  of  the  Southern  Alps,  particularly  on  the  Italian  lakes, 
which  are,  I  believe,  the  result  in  the  first  [ilace  of  marine  denudation,  succeeded 
by  that  of  depression  and  tlnally  powerful  ice-action.  On  the  south  face  of  the 
&basi  and  Jaintia  Hills,  however,  which  are  orographically  connected  with  tho 
jKoinsula  of  India — the  conditions  altogether  diflcreut — we  iind  long  stretches  of 
water  of  considerable  breadth  and  depth  extending  within  the  hills  and  not 
onlike  in  miniature  the  Italian  lakes.  These  valleys,  worn  out  of  the  sanilstone 
uid  limestone  rock,  have  botn  formed  here,  I  think,  to  some  extent  by  tho  aid 
of  marine  action,  and  the  subsequent  depression  along  this  line  of  hills,  also  marke<i 
here,  aa  in  the  Western  Bhutan  Doars  by  the  absence  of  beds  newer  tlian  tho 
aumraulitic. 

This  attempt  to  bring  before  you  some  of  the  great  changes  in  the  geography  of 
Europe  and  Asia  must  now  be  brought  to  an  end.  It  is  a  subject  of  vast  time,  of 
absorbing  interest.  I  am  only  sorry  it  is  not  in  more  able  hands  than  mine  to  treat 
it  in  the  manner  it  deserves,  and  in  better  and  more  eloquent  language  ;  but  it  is  a 
talent  given  to  but  few  men  (sometimes  to  a  Lyell  or  a  Darwin)  to  explain  clearly 
ind  in  an  interesting  form  the  ;,'re:U  and  gradual  changes  the  surface  of  the  carlh  has 
passed  through.  The  study  of  thui^e  changes  must  create  in  our  minds  bumble 
admiration  of  the  great  Creator's  sublime  work,  and  it  is  in  such  a  spirit  that  I  now 
>ttbmit  for  your  consideration  the  subject  of  this  address. 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E.  C.  Rye,  Librarian  r.g.s.) 

ARCTIC. 

HOTdenskiold,  A.  E. — Vega-Exiieditumeus  Vetenskapliga  lakttagelser,  bearbelade 

af  Deltiigare  1  Kesan  och  andra  Forskare  utgifna  af  A.  E.  Nordenskioid.     Andra 

Ban«let.     Stockholm  (F.  &  G.  Beijera  FGrlag)  :  1883,  large  Bvo.,  pp.  516,  maps 

and  illustrations.    {Dfthin.) 

■  The  first  volume  of  the  separately  ptiblished  scientific  results  of  tho  Vetja 

m       Expedition  was  noticed  in  hist  year's  *  Proceedings,'  p.  440.    This  second  volume, 

illustrated  by  32  clearly  executed  plates  and  some  woodcuts,  contains   the 

following  pajiers : — A  list,  with  localities,  and  in  some  few  cases  lengthenetl 

descriptions,  of  the  pbanerogamio  flora  of  St.  Lawrence  Island  on  the  south  of 

the  Asiatic  side  of  Bering's  Strait,  and  a  similar  one  of  the  same  great  group  of 

plants  from  the  Western  Eskimo  Land,  Iwth  by  F.  li.  Kjellman ;  notes  and 

studies  of  the  mammalian  Jauna  ot  the  Siberian  Arctic  Ocean  coasts,  by  Oscar 

tNordquist ;  a  memoir  on  the  fossil  flora  of  Japan,  by  A.  G.  Nathorst ;  a  contri- 
bution to  knowledge  of  the  Chtikches  (linguistic  and  anthropological),  by 
O.  Nordquist ;  a  pa|)er  un  tho  properties  of  water  and  ice,  and  contributions  to 
the  hydrography  of  the  Siberian  Sea,  by  O.  Petterssou  ;  a  descriptive  account  of 
the  C'hoitojjodu  (or  marine  Vtrmen)  of  the  Siberian  Arctic  Seas  and  Bering's 


€26 


NEW  BOOKS. 


Strait,  collected  during  the  Vega  Expedition  of  1878-79,  by  A.  Wirta; 
magnetic  obtjervationa  during  the  same  expedition,  pt.  i.,  by  Aug.  ^yijkMidrr; 
and  a  supplement  (of  11  places)  to  the  list  of  geographical  positions  given  m  tbi» 
first  volume,  also  by  Arvid  Liudhagen. 

Pettersaon'a  two  papers  (written  in  EnjjHsh)  are  a  valuable  contribution  to  our 
3cnowledge  nf  Arctic  hydrography.  The  lirat  of  them  endeavours  to  account  for 
tlio  phy&ical  properties  of  water  in  the  liquid  and  solid  state  at  those  temperv 
tures  to  which  ice  and  water  are  generally  expAsed  in  the  Arctic  Sea*— Un 
experiments  being  on  temperatures  between  —  20®  and  +15°  C,  aa  thecij«of» 
in  ice  below  the  former  and  in  water  above  the  latter  are  almost  entirelr  »o»il  of 
hydrographio  interest,     Abnipt  changes  both  in  saltness  and  tc  ^tn 

found  at  the  distance  from  the  coast  where  the  Vega  passed,  owi:  Ur- 

mingling  of  the  two  great  constituents  of  oceanic  salt  water  and  f rush  > 
water  from  the  estuaries  of  the  great  Silx-riau  rivers;  but  it  is  cons  i 
very  probable  that  the  Siberian  Sea  ever  attains  a  uniform  and  her 
composition,  even  at  higher  latitudes.    The  extreme  cold   freezes  • 
suddenly,  whether  salt  or  fresh,  and  the  Arctic  current  eventually  CHit..-  ^-.^ 
the  results  so  far,  that  when  melted  there  is  no  union  of  the  salt  or  fresh  era- 
stituents.     The  existence  of  an  ice-current  from  east  to  west  is  unmistakablj 
shown  by  the  deposits  from  the  mouths  of  the  Siberian  rivers,  which  are  heaped 
up  as  huge  accumulations  of  driftwood  on  every  shoal  coast  of  Spitxbergen,  ud 
such  ico  as  really  melts  in  the  Arctic  8<a  di-KJs  not  leave  the  water  in  a  it»tB 
favourable  for  diffusion,  as  proved  by  the  abrupt  changes  of  tempcrnton?  noted 
in  small  dcjnhs  by  the  Willem  Barents. 

In  discussing  the  eftects  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  Pettersaon  sujjgesU  that  it  nay 
reach  further  eastwards  in  winter,  when  unim{>eiled  by  the  Arctic  ice-mftMi; 
but  he  considers  that  the  I  e*7«  observations  result  in  scarcely  any  dir«:t  ligu 
of  its  influence  on  the  sea  north  of  the  Taimur  Peninsula  and  Cape  Chelyiakin 
in  summer. 

The  maps  are  hydrographic,  and  give  the  Kara  and  Siberian  Bens  aepante^ 
with  route,  soundings,  and  various  sections. 


1883,^ 


GENEItAL. 

Hann  ^r.]  Julius, — Handbuch  dor  Klimalologie,  Stuttgart  (J.  Engelhom) : 
8vo.,  pp.  X.  and  764,  illustrations,    (Dulaii  :  price  15s.) 

Published  as  a  part  of  the  "  Bibliothck  geographisober  Handbuchcr,"  edited 
by  Prof.  Friedrich  llatzel,  with  the  assistance  of  various  specialists,  this  voln-, 
Biinous  treatise  is  (after  an  introductory  sketch  and  a  discussion  of  climatia 
factors  in  general,  and  the  means  available  for  a  knowledge  of  climate)  divided 
into  two  sections,  general  and  special  climatology  (the  latter  named  climalo- 
graphy),  The  former  discusser  solar  or  niaihematical  climate  and  the  t,vpe» 
forms  of  modified  telluric,  or  so-called  physical,  climate ;  and  tlie  latter  divide* 
the  earth's  surface  into  climate-zones,  tropical,  north  and  south  temperate,  aud 
polnr.  Various  minor  subdivisions  are  emplo.yed,  aud  the  work  contain*  a  gTMt 
amount  of  local  data  as  well  as  scientific  deduction. 

Rnge  [Dr,]  Soplius. — Gcachichte  des  Zeitalters  der  Entdeckungen.  Berlin  (Orote):  I 
1883,  8vo.,  pp,  481-542,  map.    (  WiUianii  &  Nor<jaU:  price  3a.) 

This  part  (contained  in  No.  74  «»f  Oucken's  "  All^eraeioo  Geschichta  la 
Einzeldarstellungon  ")  completes  Ruge's  history  of  e^rly  geographical  UkK 
coveriea,  noticed  from  time  to  time  in  our  'Proceedings.'  It  contain*  th« 
couclusion  of  the  thinl  chapter  (which  treats  of  the  south-weatem  route  to  ti» 
Indies,  Magalhaes,  and  the  tirst  circumnavigation  of  the  globe),  with  a  skctchof 
the  early  contests  in  the  IToluccas,  and  •►f  the  Spanish  journeys  of  diacowr 
in  the  Pacific  ;  and  the  fourth  and  tifth  chaiitcrs,  which  respectively  di40t»t!M 
attempts  to  discover  the  north-west  and  oonh-east  passsages  to  Indi,i. 

The  map  is  a  coloured  fac^simile  of  a  chart  of  tlie  Moluccas  contained  id  tb» 
Portuguese  cosmographer  Diego  Homen'a  parchment  Atlas  of  1568,  in  ti» 
Royal  Library,  Dresden. 


(    627    ) 

NEW  MAPS. 
CBy  J.  GoLBS,  Map  Curator  B.a.s.) 

EUBOPE. 

IgTami  Umgebungskarte  von——.  Herausgegeben  von  k.  k.  znilitUr-geograf.  Insti- 
tute. Wien.  Scale  1:75,000  or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  Price  2s. 
(Dti2au.) 

rOntral  Europe. — Beliefkarte  von  Zentralenropa  nach  Mohls  oro-hydrograf.-  and 
Eisenbahnwandkarte  von  L.  Dickert.  Scale  1 : 1,000,000  or  13 '6  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.    In  2  blocks.    Rheinbach,  Stumm.    Price  121.    CDtUau.) 

loblenz,  Karte  der  Umgebang  von .  Neue  Bearbeitung  von  Hamricht.  Scale 

1:25,000  or  2*9  inches  to  a  geographical  mile.  Groos,  C!oblenz.  8  sheets.  Price 
68.    (Dulau.) 

franco. — Carte  des  chemins  de  fer  Fran^ais,  par  L.  Thuillier.  Scale  1 :  260,000  or 
3*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Hachette,  Paris.    Price  4s.  6<2.    (^DiUau.) 

Carte  de  la  fronti^re  nord-est  de  la (d'aprds  la  carte  da  genie  iT^helle 

de  1 :  864,000)  par  im  ancien  6\hve  de  I'^oole  polytecnique.  L.  Baudoin  &  Co., 
Paris.     {Dulau.) 

italia,  Carta  stradale  e  postale  dell' ,  discgnata  secondo  le  carte  e  le  opere  piii 

accreditate  del  modemi  geografi,  coUe  attuali  division!  politiche  del  regno  d'ltalia 
da  C.  Cerri.  Scale  1:864,000  or  11*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Vienna. 
8  sheets.    Price  IQs.    (^Dulau.) 

)esterr.-irngar.  Belches,  Karte  des ,  mit  den  Grenzen  der  Bezirkshaupt- 

mannschaften  und  Komitate,  von  J.  Scheda.  Scale  1:1,000,000  or  13 '6 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    4  sheets.    Artaria  &  Co.,  Wien.    Price  12a, 

laarloniB,  Karte  der  Umgegend  von .    Scale  1 : 25,000  or  2'9  inches  to  a 

geographical  mile.    Berlin.    2  sheets.    Price  38.     (Z>u2au.) 
chweiz,  Wandkarte  der ,  von  J.  M.  H.  Ziegler.    Scale  1:200,000  or  2*7 

ge(^raphical  miles  to  an  inch.    Wurster  &  Co.,  Ziirich.    8  sheets.    Price  10s. 

(J>ulau.) 
Gotland,  Reduced  Ordnance  Maps  of ,  by  John  Bartholomew,  F.B.a.8.    Scale 

1 :  127,000  or  1  '7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch : — County  of  Sutheriand.   Orkney 

Islands.  Shetland  Islands.    Adam  and  Charles  Black,  Edinburgh,  1883.    Price 

28.  6cf.  coloured,  3s.  Qd.  mounted  on  cloth. 

OBDNANCE  SURVEY  MAPS. 

Publications  issued  from  Ist  to  30th  Juno,  1883. 
-incll — County  Maps : — 

England  and  Wales  :  Berks,  sheets  14,  36 ;  2s.  Qd.  each.  Glamorgan, 
Sheets  2,  3,  6 ;  2s.  each.  Hertford,  Sheet  30  filled  in  with  Sheet  41  (Co. 
Essex) ;  2s.  Qd.  Hertford,  sheet  36 ;  2s.  6rf.  Derby,  Quarter  Sheets,  10 
S.W. ;  15  S.E. ;  18  N.E, ;  18  S.W. ;  22  S.W.  with  Stafford  2  S.W  ;  23  N.E. ; 
23  N.  W. ;  24  S.W. ;  25  N.E. ;  39  S.E. ;  Is.  each.  Montgomery,  Quarter 
Sheets,  38  S.W.  with  Shropshire  54  S.W. ;  Is.  Shropshire,  Quarter  Sheets, 
47  S.  W.  with  Montgomery  31  S.W. ;  51  N.W. ;  55  N.E. ;  Is.  each. 

Ireland  :  Longford  (revised) :  Sheet  10 ;  2s.  6(^. 

S-inch — Parish  Maps : — 

England:  Bedford:  Ampthill,  7  sheets  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Flitwick,  Ar.  Bk.; 
Haynes,  7  sheets ;  Husbome  Crawley,  5  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Maalden,  9  and  Ar. 


"628  NEW  MAPS. 

nk. ;  Millbrook,  5  and  Ar.  Bk.:  Ridgraoac,  Ar.  Bk.;  Stepp'mgley,  Ar.  BtJ 
Cornwall :    Blisland,  Ar.   Bk. ;    Laiidu!p!i,   Ar.   Bk. ;    PillatoQ,  Ar. 
Derby :  Harrow  ivpon  Trent,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Cbadde^eo,  8  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  CheLl 
lastua,  Ar.  Bk,  ;  Mackworlh,  9;  Sitifiu  ILxir,  5.     Moamotlth:  Bvttwi,!;! 


Torkard,  9  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Nutliall,  5 ;  Papplewick  8  and  Ar.  Bk.  Shroplhire- 
B:vlgcr,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Bausley  (Det.),  2  aud  Ar.  Bk. ;  Kenley,  Ar.  Bk.  Suffoli* 
Aldrinj^liam  with  Tiior]ie,  Ar.  Bk. ;  Barton  Milln,  Ar.  Bk. ;  BramforJ,  lO; 
TuddeDhara,  Ar,  Bk. 
Town  Plans :  Enolaxd  :  Asbby  de  la  Zoucb,  scale  1 :  528,  5  sheets,  2$.  each, 
Thetford,  scale  1 :  500. 17  uheeta,  2».  eacii. 

Publications  issued  from  1st  to  3l8t  July,  1S83. 
6-illch. — County  Mapa  i-^ 

England  :  Berks,  abet-tslo,  19,  21,  35;  25.  Cul.  each.  Berks,  sheet  10,  filled  In 
with  sheet  45  Co.  Oxford,  2s.  M.  Berks,  sheet  1,  filletl  in  with  sheet  32  Co, 
O.vford,  2s.  Gd.  Berks,  sheet  17,  filled  in  with  sheet  47  Co.  Buckingbm, 
2s.  Gd.  Hertford,  sheet  9,  filled  in  with  Rheets  7,  S,  and  13  Co.  E8smx,2<..;J. 
Cornwall,  Quarter  Sheet,  21  N.E. ;  is.  Shropshire,  Quarter  Shectn,  47  N.W. 
with  Montgomery  31  N.W. ;  47  S-E.,  filled  in  with  Montgomery  31  S.E  ■ 
52  S.W.  ;  56  S.E.  ;  57  N.E.,  57  N.W. ;  59  N.E. ;  UO  N.W..  60  S.W.; 
62  N.K.,  with  Moiitf^oinery  45  N.E.,  62  S.E.  ;  G3  X.E.,  (i3  N.W.,«J3S.£ 
64  N.W.,  04  S.E.  ;  65  N.W. ;  Gf>  N. W.,  6f5  S.E. ;  67  N.E.,  67  N.W.,  67  S.E., 
G7  S.W.;  74  N.E.,  74  S.E.  ;  80  N.E.  ;  81  N.E.;  Is.  each. 
ItiEt.ANi) :  Cavan  (revised),  sheet  20,  2«.  Gd,  Longford  (revised),  sheet  16,2i.  6ii; 
Meath  (revised),  sheet  3,  2s. 
25-illch— Parish  Maps : — 

England:  Bedford  I  nonphton  Conqiiest,  7  sheets,  MonmOUth :  Llangiu, 
4:  Mirshfield,  5;  Jlichaelston  Fedwy,  5.  Norfolk:  Hui^haKi,  11. 
Skropsllire :  Benthall,  5 ;  Church  Preen,  5 ;  Hu^hley,  5 ;  Ixiugnor,  0 ; 
Patlingham,  6;  Willey,  7;  Wortheo,  33,  Stafford:  Bradley,  11,  and  Ar. 
Bk, ;  Church  Eaton,  5,  aud  Ar,  Bk. ;  Hamstall  Ridware  and  Do.  (Dct),  tJ,  uid 
Ar,  Bk. ;  Maveayn  Ridware,  G,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Pipe  Ridware,  3,  andAr.Bt 
Suffolk:  Cavenharn,  11,  and  Ar,  Bk.;  Pnrdis  Fami,  4. 
Town  Plan — 5-feet  scale : 

Ireland  :  Greystonea,  5  sheets. 

ASIA. 

Korea  oder  Tsc]io«Sen  der  Japaner. —  Mit  Benutzung  der  neuesten  Kujtcn* 
Aufoahmen  gezeichnet  uach  einer  im  Jahre  1875  voni  Kriegs-Minist^rium  r.a  [ 
Tukio  herausgegebenen  Kart«,  llbcrsetzt  von  Dr.  Ernest  Satow,  Second  Sccretuy  ] 
and  Japanese  Secretary  to  H.M.  Le^saliuo  at  Tukio.    Scale  1 : 1,700,000  or  28'1 1 
geographical  miles   to  an  inch.    Bedig.  v.  B.  Hassenstein.     Petermann's 'Geo- 
j^aphische  Mitthciluugou,'  Jahrgang  18S3,   Tafel   10,     Justus  Perthes,  Goik 
iDi(hm.} 

Palestine,  Map  of .     Reduced  by  arrangement  with   the  Commiltee  of  llui 

PalesHue  Exploration  Fund  ;  embodying  as  ranch  of  the  Great  Survey  of  Western  j 
Palestine  a.s  the  scale  allows ;  by  T.  B.  Johnston.  Scale  1 :  714,649  or  9*7  g«v| 
graphical  miles  to  an  inch.  With  Index.  W.  &  A.  K.  Johnston,  Edinburgk| 
and  London.     Price  4s.  6'/. 

On  comp3rin;j:  this  map  with  the  previous  edition  of  Keith  JaUnstoo'sBoy^lj 
Atlas  a  marked  difference  will  be  noticeii  in  the  hill-work  and  courses  of  soma  i 
of  the  streams ;  this  is  itarticiilarly  oKservable  in  the  case  of  the  river  Jordtt 
and  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  Qm-el-Fahm,  as  well  as  those  along  the  coast  from 
the  Bay  of  Acre  to  Gaza.     These  are  only  given  as  indications  of  the  corrections 
that  have  been  made,  which,  however,  are  numerous, 


NEW  MAPS. 


629 


in  nearly  every  part  of  the  map,  inrolvitig  in  some  inslancps,  changes  in  the 
Latitudes  and  Lcniptudes  previously  assif^ned.  1  he  map  is  accompanied  by  an 
Alphabetical  Index,  which  greatly  adds  to  its  value,  and  it  fokLs  up  so  that  it 
niny  lie  carrictl  in  the  pocket. 

Tong'King,  Kartc  von .    Scale  1 : 1,800,000  or  24*6  geographical  miles  to  an 

inch.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.     Price  Is.     (^Dulavj) 

-,  XJebersichtakarte  von .    Eutworlou  auf  Gnind  der  vom  Ddput  dea 

Cartes  et  Plans  de  la  Marine  1881  herausgegebenen  Karte  von  I.  L,  Dutreuil  de 
Elans  und  mit  Benutzung  der  Karten  von  Dupuis,  Maget,  Romanot  du  Caillaud, 
der  Hydrographie  Franoaise.  Scale  1:2,000,000  or  27  geographical  mile* 
to  an  inch,  nebst  Plan  von  Ha-noi  und  Umgebunjr,  scale  1:114,000  or  I'o 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch,  Rcdigirt  von  R.  Kiepert.  Berlin,  D.  Eeinier. 
Price  Is.     {Dulau.) 

Tonkin,  Carte  du ,  publico  avec  Tautorisation  du  ministro  de  la  marine  et  des 

colonies,  par  M.  A.  Gouin.    Paris,  Challamel,  aine.    Price  St.  Qd,    (Duiau.) 

AFRICA. 
Blanen  Nil,  Originalkarte  von  Juan  ilaria  Schuvers  Forschungen  am und  in 

I  den  Gebieten    iJBtlich    von  Famaka,  in  den  Jahren   1881   und   1882.      Scale 

II  :5<X),000  or  6-8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.     Petermann's  '  Geographlscho 
[Wittheilungen,'  Erganzvmgsheft  No.  72.  Justus  Perthej*,  Gotha,  1883.    (Duiau.) 

pt,  Map  of  ijortiona  of  Middle  and  Upper .     Sheet  6.     Scale  1 :  200,000  or 

-*7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Compiled  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War 

it'ffice,  in  1883,  principally  from  the  Surveys  made  by  the  Egyptian  General 
IBtaEFand  Mr.  John  Fowler,  c.e.    Lithographed  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War 
iOffice,  June  1883. 
gyptian  Sudan*    Map  of  the .     Scale  1:2,253,080  or  30 '8  geographical 

miks  til  an  inch.  Compiled  and  lithographed,  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War 
Office,  1883. 

This  map  includes  nil  the  country  between  latitude  2**  N,  and  20**  N.,  and 
longitude  25**  E.  to  37'^  40'  E. ;  it  has  been  compiled  with  great  care,  and  con- 
tains the  results,  of  nil  recent  explorations.  It  ifi  by  far  the  most  perfect  map 
of  the  Egyptian  Siician  that  has  yet  been  produced. 

Zambese  und  Schirei   Neue  Portugiesieche  Aufnahraen   am   unteren ,   von 

IAffonsodo  Moraes  Sarmento  (1877-1880)  und  der  Exiiedition  untcr  Paiva  d'An- 
drada  (1881).  Scale  1 : 1,500,000  or  20  '4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Redigirt 
von  Richard  Kiepert.  Zeitachr.  der  Ges.  f.  Erdk.,  Bd.  XVIII.,  Taf.  IV.  D.  Reimer, 
Berlin,  1883.  (Dulau.) 
In  addition  to  the  survey  of  the  Zambesi  and  Shire  rivers,  made  by  Sr. 
Alfonso  de  Moraes  Sarmento  and  the  expedition  under  Sr.  Pavia  d'Andrada 
(1881),  there  is  an  inset  map  on  which  the  courses  of  these  rivers,  as  laid  down 
in  this  map,  and  that  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa,  compiled  by  Mr,  E.  G,  Raven- 

I  stein,  are  given,  showing  considt'rnble  discrepancies  in  the  lower  course  of  the 
Zambesi,  and  the  position  of  the  Shire;  it  may,  however^  be  remarked  that  these 
discrepancies  occur  in  the  longitudes  assigned,  and  longitude  has  always  proved 
to  be  a  very  uncertain  quantity  in  preliminary  survcvs ;  the  latitudes,  liowever, 
of  all  the  chief  points  very  nearly  correspond ;  and  it  Avoidd  seem,  from  the 
contradictions  to  be  found  in  the  surveys  which  have  already  been  made  by 

■  Portuguese  officers,  that  we  may  yet  look  forward  to  considerable  alterations  and 
corrections  in  the  cartography  of  these  rivers.  A  reference  to  the  remarks  con- 
tained in  Vol.  IV.  p.  254  of  this  Society's  •  Proceedings,'  on  the  I'ortngui's.! 
surveys  of  this  district,  will  convey  some  idea  of  the  difficulties  which  the 
geographer  has  to  overcome  when  compiling  a  map  of  the  Zambesi  country, 

Mr.  E.  G.  Ravenatein  in  his  map  has  adhered  to  the  loniritudes  computed 
by  the  late  Astronomer  Royal  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  (Sir  T.  Maclear)  from 


Bets  of  lunar  distances  obperval  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  nnd  in  tbe  fdce  of  the  dit 
creimnciea  rontained  in  tlio  surveys  of  the  Portuguose  officers,  seems  to  lure 
been  of  opinion  tlmt  there  existed  no  suflScient  grounds  to  ignore  the  raralb  rf 
Dr.  Livingstone's  observations, 

AilERICA. 
Arctic  Kegions. — Die  ehemaligo  Verbreitting  der  Eskimos  im  arktij 

kaniscben  Arciiipel.    Scale  1 :  11,000,000  or  150* 6  geographical  miles  to  u  I 

Zeitscbr.  der  Ges.  f.  Erdk.  zu  Berlin,  Bd.  XVIIL,  I'af.  2.    D.  Rdmer,  i 

1883.     (Dulau.) 
Eiiste  des  Arktischen  Amcrika  von  75**-104**  W.  L.  ▼.  Gr.  zur  DdjstcUn^l 

der  EskimoWobnsitzo  und  ibrer  Verbindnngswege.     Zeitschr.  d.  Ges.  f.  Erik. 

zu  Berlin,  Bd.  XVIII.,  Taf.  3.     D.  Keimer,  Berlin,  1883.     (Dulau.) 


Scale  1:1,000,000  or  13*6  goognpUaJ 
Scale  1: 1,000,000  w 
Scale  1:50,000  or 


BrackebTisch,  L.— 

Mapa  dc  la  provincia  de  Jujuy. 

miles  to  an  inch. 
Mapa  de  la  parte  meridional  de  la  provincia  de  Salta, 

13 '6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Croquis  de  la  Lnguna  de  la  Brea,  provincia  de  Jujay. 
1 '  4  inches  to  a  geograpliical  mile. 
Stiller  and  Laas,  Buenos  Aires,  1882.    (DulauJ) 

Lallement,  G.  Ave.— Mapa  de  la  provincia  de  San  Luis  levantado  ©t  dibajadobt9 
loB  auapicioa del  lustituto  Gcogr.  Argentine.  Scale  1 :  400,000  or  5'5 geognpIoGU 
miles  to  an  inch.     Stiller  and  Laas,  Buenos  Aires,  1882.    (Dttfatt,) 

l^ortheiB  Transcontinental  Survey  (U.S.A.>,— 

Map  of  Yakima  Region,  Washington  Territory.     Scale  1 :  127,000  or  1 '7 

geographiail  miles  to  an  inch.     2  sheetn,  Eastern  and  Western. 
Map  of  Colville  Region,  Washington  Territory.    Scale  1 :  127,000  or  1-7 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Map  of  Crazy  Mountains  aud  vicinity,  Montana  Territory.    Scale  1 :  127,000 

or  1  *  7  geof^phicjxl  miles  to  an  mch. 
Map  of  Judith  Basin,  Montana  Territory,    Scale  1:127,000  or  1*7  |pv 
graphical  miles  to  an  inch.     2  ahet'ts,  Northern  and  Southern. 
Northern  Transcontinental  Survey,  Raphael  Pnrai«lly,  Director.    Departostt 
of  Topography,  A,  D.  Wilson,  Chief  Topographer,  1882. 

AUSTRALLi. 

SontlL   Anstralia,   Map  of ,    showing    tlie    Telegraph    Lines,  1882, 

1:1,168,000  or  16  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  With  an  enlarged  pltt 
showing  lines  within  a  radius  of  27  miles  Irom  Adelaide,  and  an  inset  map  of 
Australia,  showing  Trunk  Lines  of  Telegraph.  Compiled  by  W.  H.  Abbott  umk 
the  direction  of  Charles  Todd,  c.m.o.,  f.b.a.s.,  Postmaster-Gencfal  and  Superin- 
tendent of  Telegraphs,     E.  Spiller,  Government  Printer,  Adelaide, 

Map  of  Country  between   Adelaide  and  the  Sea  Coast  for  MIUtKj 

Purjjoses.  Compiled  in  the  Surveyor-General's  OfiBce,  Adelaide,  1882.  Sole 
1 :  20,000  or  3-6  inches  to  a  geographical  mile, 

•  Map  showing  the  Area  Cultivated  for  Wheat  in  Sottth  Australia  from 


1870  to  1882,  tho  Quantity  of  Wheat  reaped,  and  the  Averagie  Yield  per  Acwh 
bushels  and  jKjunda  ;  also,  the  Area  of  each  District ;  the  Area  Sold,  eilbn  ibt 
Cash  or  on  Credit,  to  March  Slst,  1883;  the  Area  Leased  (exclusive  of  Putarsl 
Leases)  to  same  date ;  the  Horses^  Cattle,  and  Sheep  on  the  Land  in  March  18S2; 
and  the  Population  in  April  1881.    Compiled  by  C.  S.  Wright,  SecrBlary  lu  the 


NEW  MAPS.  631 

Honorable  the  Commissioner  of  Crown  Lands,  and  Photo-Lithographed  at  the 
Surveyor-General's  Office,  Adelaide.  4  sheets.  Scale  1:390,000  or  5*2  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch. 

•  Copy  of  Rough  Plan  showing  explorations  by  Mr.  Winnecke,  prepared 


in  the  Office  of  the  Surveyor-General,  Adelaide,  1882.   Scale  1 : 1,000,000  or  13*6 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 

Adelaide.     Scale  1:63,360    or  0*86  gec^raphical  mile  to  an  inch. 


No. 

Inches. 

163 

m 

s^ 

1-2 

1189 

m 

__ 

1*2 

1233 

m 

= 

6-0 

469 

m 

= 

14*3 

286 

in 

" 

1-0 

97 

\m 

= 

2-0\ 
3*0j' 

2672 

m 

= 

3-0 

1331 

m 

= 

0*9 

2548 

m 

= 

I'l 

2322 

m 

= 

1*37 

Surveyor-Greneral's  Office,  Adelaide,  1882. 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty.— Charts  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Dex)artment,  Admiralty,  in 
May,  June,  July,  and  August  1883. 

Sardinia,  north-cast  coast : — Cape  Ferro  to  port  Brandinchi, 
including  the  gulfs  of  Congianus  and  Terranova,  with 
the  adjacent  ports  and  anchorages.    Price  Is.  Qd, 

Mediterranean  : — Bonifacio  strait.    Price  2«.  6(/. 

Black  sea : — Kustenjeh  anchorage.    Price  1«. 

Sjxain,  south  coast: — Port  of  Alicante.    Price  1».  Qd. 

Newfoundland,  east  coast: — Canada  bay,  with  tho 
adjacent  auchorages.  Hilliers  harbour.  Gr^vigneux 
and  Aiguillettes  harbours.  Gouffro  and  Canaries 
harbours.    Otter  cove.    Price  1».  6d. 

South-western  Pacific  ocean : — Anchorages  in  the  Solomon 
islands.    Price  1«.  Grf. 

Japan : — Hakodate  harbour.    Price  1«.  6c?. 

South  America,  east  coast : — Port  Belgrano.    Price  1». 

Spain,  west  coast : — ^Vigo  bay.    Price  1«.  6rf. 

North  Sea: — Schcveningen  to  Ameland,  including  the 
Zuider  Zee.    Price  2«.  6t/. 
441        m       =     0*2      Fiji  islands:— -Eastern  archipelago,  southern  portion.  Price 

2«.  Oil. 
893        m       =     0*4      Newfoundland,  south  coast: — Burin  harbour  to  Devil 
bay,  including  Miquelun  islands  and  Fortune  bay. 
Price  2«.  Qd. 
1911        m      =0*29    North    America,   west    coast: — Juan    de    Fuca    strait. 

(Plans,  port  San  Juan,  Neeah  bay.)    Price  la.  Qd. 
2508        m      =     1*68    Gulf  of  Tartary: — Barracouta  harbour  (port  Imperial). 
Price  1«, 

South  Atlantic  ocean : — Trinidad  and  Martin  Yas  islets. 
Price  1». 

North  America,  west  coast : — Admiralty  inlet  and  Puget 
sound.    Price  Is.  %d. 

Australia,  north-west  coast: — Cape  Ford  to  Buccaneer 
archipelago.    Price  35. 

Sumatra,  south  coast : — Telok  Betong.    Price  1». 

North  Atlantic  ocean.    Price  2s. 

South  Atlantic  ocean.    Price  2«. 

China : — Kweshan  islands  to  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  includ- 
ing the  Chusan  archipelago.    Price  3s. 
1329        m      =     0*3      South  America,  east  coast: — Bahia  Blanca  to  Union  bay. 

(Plan,  Union  bay).    Price  2«. 
440        m      =    0*2      Fiji   islands: — Eastern   archipelago,   northern   portion. 
Price  2«.  Qd. 

692       m      =0*85    Madagascar,  west  coast:— St.  Angostuie  and  Tullear  bays. 
Price  1«. 


595 

m 

_ 

0*4 
1-6' 

1947 

m 

= 

0-21 

1047 

m 

= 

0*1 

81 

m 

— 

2*7 

2059 

d 

•  = 

0*4 

2203 

d 

= 

0*4 

1199 

m 

.-= 

0*2i 

632 


NEW  MAPS. 


No. 
1480 


locbes. 

0-25 


1*96; 


=     2-85 


71a  Plan  adiled,  Cocftnttda  or  Coring  bny. 
1192  Plans  added,  EyemouUi ;  New  biggin  bay. 
134  Plan  added,  Espit^le  bay, 
97  Plan  ndded,  AHte  liarboiir. 
1056  Plan  added,  Gascoyae  road. 
2717  Plans   added,    Herradura, 

anchorages. 
911  Plans  added,  Barn  biiy.     Uki  road. 
957  Plan  added,  Caualasivn  cove. 
(J.  D.  Potter,  agtsnt) 


China:— Yang-tse-Kian^,    from     tbe    sea   to    Na| 

Price  2s, 
Red  sea : — Jel>el   Zukur  .ind  Ilaufsh  LBlaads.     Abtt 

channel.     Zebayir  islamls. 
Italy,  west  coast.    Leghorn  (Livorao)  roadstead. 


Berengutles,  Eacullos,  Ijaya.     Mirbella, 
Gnnons  Sudi  anchorage. 


Aniclaiid 


1329  Uaionbay    .. 

692  St.   Augustine 
harbour     „ 
1480  Yang-tae-Kiang 
2554  Leghorn 


bay  and  Tnllcar 


CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

Ho.  Concellcd  by 

1G3  Ports  and  aucliorages  on  north-east  f  New  chnrf.  Cape  Ferro   to  port 

coast  of  Sardinia        \       Brandinchi       

1189  Bunifacio  strait      New  chart,  Bonifacio  strait 

lLi33  Kustciijeh  anchorage     ..      .,      ..  New  plan,  Kustenjeh  anchorage.. 

469  Port  of  Alicante New  plan,  Port  of  Alicante 

97  Aachon>g.»  in  .ha  Solomon  i,kcd.{  ^7„,„t"i«tat"T   '."    "." 

2672  Hakodadi  harbour        New  plan,  Hakwlate  harbour     .. 

1331  Port  Belgmno        New  plan,  Port  Belgnmo    .. 

2548  Vigo  bay         New  plan,  VjVo  bay 

at   n>    ■            r.          4    1                       /    New  i.lan,  Cocanada  or  Corinea 
81  ConagaorCocanadabay      ..      ..  |       bay  on  ^h art .. 

2322  Zuider  Zee     f   New     chart,     Schevenin^en     to 

1911  Juan  do  Fuca  Btrait,  ivith  Admi- 
ralty inlet  and  Pu:;et  sound    .. 

1910  San  Juan  port,  Duncan  rock,  and 
Neeali  bay        

2508  Barracouta  harbour  or  Imperial 
port 

1947  Paget  sound 

1047  CajM*  Ford  to  Buccaneer  archi- 
pelago  

1049  Cambridge  gulf 

2059  North  Atlantic  ocean 

2203  South  Atlantic  ocean 

1199  Ilieshan  islands  to  iho  Yanj;-tse- 
Kiang,  including  the  Chusan 
archipelago       ..      


Now  chart,  Juan  de  Fuca  strait.. 

New  plan,  Piarracouta  harboTir 
(port  Tmperiiil) 

New  chart,  Admiralty  inlet  and 
Puget  sound      

New  chart,  Cajie  Ford  to  Buo- 
caneor  archii>elago 

New  chart,  North  Atlantic  ocean 
New  chart.  South  Atlantic  ocean 
New  chart,  Kweshan  ishnds  to  the 

Yang-t8e-KiaDg,  including  tbe 

Cliusaii  archipelago 

'  New  chart,  Bahia  Blanca  to  Union 

W 

New    plan,    St.    Augustine    and 

Tullear  bays 

New  plan,  Yang-tse-Kiaog.. 
New  plan,  Leghorn  roadstead     .. 


PROCEEDINGS 


OF  THE 


EOYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETT 

^       AND  MONTHLY  EECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 

^f     On  tlie  Athabasca  Bidrici  of  the  Canadian  North-  West  Territory. 

^L  By  the  Eev.  £mile  Petitot. 

^M  Map^  p.  GS8. 

Some  nine  years  ago,  I  wrote  a  sbort  papor  on  the  Fur  District  of 
Athabasca,  which  was  inserted  in  the  Bulletin  of  the  French  Geo- 
graphical Society  for  July-Septoinhor  1875»  and  was  also  twice  published 
separately.  My  subsequent  journeys  on  the  Upper  Athabasca  river  and 
a  stay  of  some  months  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  have  enabled  me  to 
collect  freah  topographical,  statiHtical,  and  historical  material  on  this 
great  district  of  the  Canadian  North-west  j  so  that  I  have  had  to  recast 
my  former  aooount  in  order  to  interpolate  these  recent  acquisitions  as 
well  as  my  personal  observations. 

It  will  bo  needless  to  refer  to  the  works  of  the  first  explorers 
of  the  region,  such  as  Heame,  Mackenzie.  Franklin,  Back.  Eichardson, 
and  others,  or  even  to  the  more  recent  *  Wild  North  Land  '  of  Captain 
Butler,  as  the  commercial  district  of  Athabasca,  which  takes  its  name 
from  the  river  and  lake,  has  undergono  so  many  modifications  during 
the  last  decade.  In  1879,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  joined  a  con- 
siderable portion  of  the  Lesser  Slave  Lake  and  Mackenzie  districts  to  the 
old  Athabasca  district,  and  its  boundaries  wore  defined  by  the  dismem- 
bered and  modified  Mackenzie  district  on  the  north,  the  Churchill  district 
on  the  east,  the  English  Kiver  on  the  south,  the  Upper  Saskatchewan  on 
the  south-west,  and  British  Columbia  on  the  west.*     From  the  Buffalo 

•  It  *boiii1Jlje  obaencd  that  since  M.  Petitot^s  return  to  Fmnoe,  Athabftsca  has  beoa 
re-defined  iia  one  of  the  four  districta  of  the  Prairie  Secti«in  <)f  the  North-West  Territoriea, 
by  order  of  the  Privy  CouQcil  of  Canadji  dated  tlio  8th  Mny,  18S3,  in  the  following 
words : — *'  4th.  Athabiisca.  The  dtatrict  of  Athubascfl,  about  122,(100  8t|Uflre  mUea  in 
extent,  to  bu  boiindeil  on  the  south  by  the  dihlrict  of  Alberta  ;  on  the  oast  by  the  Hue  be- 
tween the  lOlh  and  llth  ranges  of  Dominion  Luiidd  tow uahi pa  before  montionc*!  [i.  e.  the 
lit«e  dividing;  the  10th  and  llth  rangea  of  townsbipa  nuratxred  from  the  fourth  initiul 
ineridinn  of  the  Iktminion  Lands  aygtem  of  aurvey,  or  about  111"  30*  \V.  long.] 
until  in  proceeding  norJhward  that  lino  intersect*  the  Atbtibascu  river;  then  by  that 
,  fiver  and  the  Athabasca  Lake  aad  Slave  River  to  the  iolcisectioD  of  the  hist  with  the 

No.  XI.— Not.  1883.]  2  t 


634 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


Kiver,  a  soTithern  affluent  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  the  entire  Bhoro  of  that 
inland  freeli-water  sea  up  to  and  including  the  two  Fonds-du-Lac  on  the 
east,  belonfjH  to  tliia  district ;  and  Forta  Resolution  and  Eeliance,  which 
are  contained  in  it,  are  subordinate  to  Fort  Chipewyan,  the  headquarten. 

If  a  straight  lino  be  drawn  from  Fort  Reliance  (situated  at  the  outlet 
of  Artillery  Lake,  tho  mouth  of  the  great  river  "  Tpa-tchege-tchdp,"  whoee 
current  is  as  perceptible  across  Slave  Lake  as  that  of  the  Slave  River)  to 
the  105th  meridian,  and  the  latter  followed  to  its  intersection  with  the 
Gist  parallel,  the  most  easterly  limit  of  the  district  is  then  defined.  This 
imaginary  line  here  meets  a  chain  of  crystaUino  rocks,  belonging  to  the 
Laurentian  system,  which  divides  the  basin  of  Hudson's  Bay  from  that 
of  the  great  interior  lakes ;  and  as  this  chain  is  the  highest  land  in  thig 
region  it  serves  as  a  natural  boundary  between  the  AthalMisca  distriot 
and  the  districts  of  the  English  River  and  Upper  Saskatchewan.  The  ^ 
Athabascan  frontier  leaves  this  chain  a  little  to  the  oast  of  La  Biche  (or  ^| 
Rednieer)  Lake,  and  follows  the  55th  parallel  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
thus  cutting  the  old  district  of  the  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  in  which  Forts 
Assiniboine  and  Jasper  are  Babordinato  to  Edmonton  House,  the  head- 
quarter of  the  Upper  Saskatchewan.  Then  following  northwards  the 
great  Cordillera,  which  is  the  natural  western  limit  of  the  district,  the 
frontier  reaches  beyond  the  Mountain  River  Portage,  and  conies  again 
to  the  Great  Slave  Lake  by  a  line  passing  between  the  nearly  parallel 
ootirBcs  of  the  Peace  and  Hay  rivers. 

The  Athabasca  district  comprises  two  great  rivers,  and  two  great 
fresh-water  l^asins.  The  rivers  are  the  Athabasca  (better  known  locally 
by  the  Canadian  name  of  La  Biche,  meaning  Red-deer  or  Elk  River)  and 
the  Peace  River  (also  called  '*  Dos  Castors  "  or  Beaver  River).  The  junction 
of  these  two  forms  the  noble  stream  which,  after  connecting  the  Atha- 
basca and  Great  Slave  Lakes,  takes  the  name  of  the  Mackenzie.  Iti 
Indian  names,  which  it  preserves  throughout  its  whole  course,  are  •'  DJe- 
nfizu"  or  Great  River,  and  "  Na-otcha-Kotch6  "  or  River  with  giant  banks. 
The  lakes  are  the  Athabasca  (the  "  Lake  of  the  Hills  "  of  Heame)  and 
the  Great  Slave  Lake  (in  Chipewyan,  *'  Lake  of  the  Creos  "). 

To  tlie  chief  topographical  features  of  this  district,  I  propoee  to  add 
my  own  observations  on  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  Its  products,  statiatici 
of  the  population,  and  some  historical  speculations,  and  I  shall  follow 
in  these  the  natural  direction  of  the  waters,  from  south-weat  to  north- 
east. -  ^M 

m 

The  most  southern  source  of  the  Athabasca  river  is  in  the  Rocky 
Ifonntains,  in  a  little  lake  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Brown,  16,000  feet  hi^^h, 

northern  boundary  of  the  district,  which  k  to  be  the  32nd  correotion  line  of  the  Dominion 
Landa  township  system,  and  ia  very  nearly  ou  tLo  GOth  pnmllel  of  north  ]tttitad«: 
weatward  by  tlic  Province  of  British  Ckjiambia."  Tliia  district  is  of  larger  ar«a  than 
Great  Britain  and  Irtjland. 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


685 


'  not  far  from  the  sources  of  tlio  Sftskatchewan,  Fraaer,  and  Columbia 
rivers,  and  a  littlo  souith  of  the  Yellow  Head  Pass.  I  do  not  kj:iow  the 
exact  lengtli  of  tKe  Atlialiasca  from  its  source,  but  it  cannot  be  less  tban 
600  or  600  miles.  There  are  240  miles  of  its  Slave  River  course  from 
Fort  Chipewyan  to  Fort  Resolution  on  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  the 
Mackenzie  is  reckoned  as  1045  miles;  this  would  give  nearly  2000  milee 
for  the  entire  river  system. 

From   its  source  to   the  confluenoe  of  the.  Clear-water  ("  Washe- 
Kamaw  "  in  the  Cree  dialect,  but  moi«  commonly  called  "  Sipisis  "  or 
Little  River)  the  general  direction  of  the  Athabasca   is   from  south- 
west to  north-east ;  from  that  point,  after  two  very  abrupt  angles  to  the 
^m  ^east  and  south-east,  it  goes  almost  straight  north  to  the  Athabasca  Lake. 
H        For  my  purpose,  we  are  only  interested  in  the  river  after  its  receiving 
the  drainage  of  the  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  at  which  point  it  enters  the  dis- 
^_  trict  of  Athabasca.     Before  that  point  it  receives  five  small  rivers,  the 
^■Hiette,  Bonhomme,  Baptiste,  Macleod,  and  Pembina.    This  last  name,  or 
^^  rather  "  Nipi-mina,"   is  a   Cree  word   for  elk-berries   (the  fruit  of  a 
^elder  rose,  Viburnum  edule^  which  grows  there). 

II  should  observe  that  the  name  Elk  River,  applied  to  the  Athabasca, 
is  not  only  unknown  in  the  north-west,  even  to  British  settlers,  but  is 
incorrect,  since  it  refers  to  the  elk  (moose)  or  "  orignal "  {Alces  ama-i- 
cantu),  whilst  the  Athabasca  bears  the  name  of  the  "oerf  bosBu"  of 
Canada  (the  wapiti),*  called  "  biche  "  by  the  Canadians  (the  name  of  the 
female).  The  Crees  call  the  wapiti  "  Wawaskisieu,"  and  the  Chipewyana 
*'The-zil,"  or  Reindeer  of  the  Rocks,  both  tribes  also  applying  these 
names  to  the  great  water  system  of  which  I  am  treating,  and  which 
should  therefore  be  called  the  Great  Red-deer  River. 

I        A  little  below  the  outlet  of  the  drainage  of  the  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  the 
Athabasca  receives  the  waters  of  another  river,  also  called  La  Biche, 
A^rhich  drains  the  pretty  lake  of  the  same  name.   Still  lower,  on  the  right 
"bank,  are  the  confluences  of  the  Crying  River  ('*  Kitou  Sipi  *')  and  Wide 
River  ("Kaministi  Kweya"),  and  on  the  left  bank  the  Pelican  River 
(**  Tsatsakin  Sipi  "),  and  Lake  Wabasca.     The  right  bank  also  receives 
^the  Houses   River    ("  Waskaigan   Sipi");    then,   before   reaching  the 
^fturbulent  cascades  and   foaming  sheets  called  the  Great   Rapid,  the 
right  bank  is  again  broken  by  the  "  Miyotinaw,"  and  the  left  by  the 
^  *•  Nistaukam  "  (Mustuoh  or  Bison  River),  whilst  another  Red-deer  or 
^fXa  Biche  River,  at  least  the  sixth  of  the  name  in  the  district,  also  enters 
ihe  Rapid  on  the  left  bank. 

The  large  Clear-water  river  affluent  is  called  *'  Otthap-des,"  or  River 
of  the  Groves,  by  the  Chipewyans,  and  "Little  Athabasca"  by  the 
Canadians.  Inclosed  between  sandy  banks  400  foet  high,  which  it 
washes  and  eats  away,  revealing  base  rocks  of  the  most  picturesque 
character  conceivable,  this  fresh  and  limpid  stream  is  literally  buried 
*  It  is  a  common  error  in  North  America  io  coll  the  wapiti  by  tbo  name  of  elk. 

2x2 


636 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


under  the  natural  bowers  of  vegetation  followiDg  its  shores  and  climbing 
the  walla  of  its  canon.  Nowhere  have  I  aoen  more  pleasing  views,  more 
ciystal  and  yot  impetuous  waters,  more  turbulent  rapids  and  cascades, 
or  more  shady  and  varied  wooda.  Ita  bed  is  covered  with  fresh-water 
mnsaela  (Unio),  which,  however,  the  Indians  do  not  eat,  and  its  forest* 
contain  moose  and  bear.  A  pretty  spring  of  sulphurous  and  saUne 
waters  rises  from  five  different  sources  iu  the  prairie  near  the  river,  and 
could  bo  mado  the  sito  of  an  excellent  sanitarj^  bathing  establishment. 

A  trading  post  called  The  Forks  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Clear-water  with  the  Athabasca. 

Beyond  the  Clear- water,  the  latter  receives  on  its  right  bank  thv 
Saline  and  Pierre-a-Calumets  rivers,  and  on  its  left  bank  the  Beaver, 
Red,  and  Cypress  rivers. 

The  sandy  banks  of  the  Athabasca  vary  from  200  to  400  feet  in 
elevation,  and  present  many  formations,  all  apparently  belonging  to  the 
transitional  epoch. 

Below  tho  drainage  of  Lake  La  Biche  and  Wide  River,  on  the  left 
bank,  a  red-coloured  exposure  of  the  schistose  and  oblique  stratifica- 
tiona  which  dip  into  the  mnddy  current  suggests  the  action  of  ancient 
subterranean  fires,  called  '*  Boucaues "  by  tho  Canadians.  Here  are 
found  sulphates  of  iron  and  magnesia,  nitrous  deposits,  and  native  car- 
bonate of  soda.  In  one  jdace  along  the  miry  bank,  a  number  of  jota  of 
hot  steam  find  a  vent  through  the  mud,  and  mako  the  waters  of  the 
river  bubble.  These  traces  of  plufconic  action  are  then  transferred  to 
the  right  bunk,  both  al)ove  and  below  the  confluence  of  tho  Clear-water, 
whore  there  is  a  chain  of  volcanoes  on  a  small  scale,  in  tho  form  of 
little  cones  of  whitened  and  scorified  earth.  Beyond  these  places, 
indications  of  active  and  extinct  igneous  action  arc  only  found  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Athabasca  and  Mackenzie  system,  reapjjcaring  all 
along  this  immense  fluvial  artery  with  an  intermittent  actiWty  and 
inaction  difficult  to  explain.  In  some  places  these  ^'Boucanes/'  after 
having  vented  fire  and  smoke  for  decades,  entirely  disapi^ear,  only  to 
show  themselves  without  apparent  cause  elsewhere. 

Traces  of  the  subterranean  bitumiuous  veins  that  keep  up  these  fires 
can  be  followed  to  tho  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  in  the  cliffs  of  Franklin 
Bay  and  Cape  Bathurst,  where  Sir  John  Eichardson  took  them  to  be 
active  volcanoes. 

These  "  Boncanes  "  are  usually  found  on  the  line  of  imperfect  cxjal, 
i.  e.  of  deposits  of  lignite  incompletely  carbonised,  and  consequently  unfit 
for  tho  forge  or  fuel.  They  are  so  along  tho  Boucanes  Eiver,  one  of  the 
affluents  of  tho  Peace  Eiver,  as  well  as  above  Fort  Norman  on  the  Lower 
Mackenzie ;  but  here  there  is  no  outer  trace  of  coal  or  lignite,  though  it 
is  probable  that  there  are  subterranean  veins  of  those  substances,  and 
that  the  phenomeua  mentioned  are  owing  to  the  protocarbonated  hydrogen 
of  the  coal  deposits.    Nevertheless  (although  Ere-damp  explodes  on  con- 


I 


I 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORT.  687 

tact  with  oxygen,  as  is  often  found  at  the  beginning  of  winter  in  some 
of  the  lakes  of  the  north-west)»  the  capability  of  spontaneons  illumination 
which  Richardson  attributes  to  the  identical  exhalations  of  Fort  Norman, 
has  not  been  found  to  exif»t  in  this  gas.  It  is  impossible  to  attribute  to 
the  Indians  the  extinction  of  the  fires  of  bituminous  schists  in  the 
Athabasca-Mackenzie  system.  Their  ignition  is  intermittent,  without 
apparent  cause,  and  unstable.  It  is,  moreover,  accompanied  l)y  a  strong 
smell  of  petroleum,  whilst  hydrogen  is  inodorous.  But  the  carburets 
uf  hydrogen,  of  which  petroleum  is  composed,  do  not  make  it,  any 
more  than  they  do  fire*damp,  spontaneously  inflammable,  even  on 
contact  with  air, — in  spite  of  received  scientific  opinion.  Wo  must, 
therefore,  consider  them  as  one  of  the  effects  of  igneous  action,  materially 
connected  with  the  firo  of  the  volcanoes ;  for  the  Boticanes  occur  under 
similar  conditions  to  the  vents  of  these  subterranean  fires,  being  found 
on  the  river  banks,  on  intermediary  strata  inclosing  schist,  bitumen, 
lignites,  thermal  sulphurous  or  saline  waters,  rock-salt,  &c. 

I  have  observed  a  saline  spring  near  the  confluence  of  the  Clear- 
water; a  little  below  this  point  the  Athabasca  receives  a  saline  feeder, 
which  rises  in  a  natural  salt  spring  of  considerable  size ;  and  below  Lake 
Athabasca,  on  the  left  bank,  is  a  second  saline  feeder,  rising  in  the 
Garibou  Mountains,  which  contain  vast  deposits  of  rock-salt  and  a  cavern 
remarkable  for  its  crystalline  concretions. 

Still  further,  between  Forts  Simpson  and  Norman,  two  other  saline 
streams,  unfit  for  drink,  are  fed  by  the  mines  of  rock-salt  contained  in 
Clarke's  Eock,  a  mountain  of  volcanic  aspect.  Lastly,  there  is  a  fifth 
ealine  river  not  far  from  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

About  56"^  30'  N.  lat.,  the  Athabasca  meets  Birch  or  Bark  Moun- 
tain, a  continuation  of  the  heights  forming  Portage-la-Loche  or  Methy 
Portage  (named  after  the  Loohe  or  fresh- water  cod-fish),  and  leaves  its 
former  course  in  order  to  open  a  way  across  the  ravines  of  the  moun- 
tain, thus  making  a  right-angled  elbow  to  the  east.  This  wonderful 
cailon  is  called  the  Great  Rapid.  For  some  26  to  28  leagnes  it 
impedes  and  much  endangers  the  navigation  of  the  Athabasca.  Besides 
the  Great  Rapid,  properly  so  called,  the  traveller  must  pass  as  best  he 
may  the  Brule,  Noye,  Pas-de-bout,  Croche  (or  Sinuous),  Stony,  Cascade, 
and  Mountain  rai>id8.  In  short,  the  whole  make  one  continuous  rapid, 
twice  as  long  as  that  of  the  Bear  River,  for  the  current  sometimes  reaches 
a  pooe  of  12  to  15  miles  an  hour. 

There  is,  nevertheless,  strictly  speaking,  no  cataract  in  the  Athabasca 
caiion,  only  a  very  strong  declivity,  in  the  form  of  a  rapid  flat  sheet  of 
water,  obstructed  by  enormous  boulders.  At  its  oonmienoement  the  river 
finds  itself  checked  by  tho  vast  natural  dam  of  Bark  Mountain,  the 
base  of  which  is  sandstone  or  madreporifcrous  limestone.  The  raging 
flood  dashes  against  this  obstacle,  in  which  it  has  striven  to  batter  a 
broach  for  centuries,  washing  away  and  carrying  off  the  tjuartzose 


638 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


particles  and  ©rpoBing  tho  madreporic  conglomorate,  shelly  lime- 
stone, or  Ititurainous  Bandstono  forming  the  base  of  this  vast  deposit, 
and  detaching  and  isolating  a  midtitude  of  globular  masses  of  solid  or 
hollow  sandstone  contained  in  the  ciuartzose  sand,  which  now  obstruct 
the  bed  of  the  river  and  are  the  cause  of  its  foaming  rapidd.  These 
concretions  are  found  at  every  elevation  of  the  cliffs^  from  the  8i«e  of  % 
coat  button  to  that  of  a  Dutch  fishing  vesribl ;  they  are  of  all  degrees 
of  measurement  and  bulk,  and  of  elegant  or  grotesque  shaped,  from 
buttons  and  turnips  to  the  planet  Saturn  with  its  rings. 

I  bavo  never  seen  in  any  geological  text-book  an  explanation  of  tbe 
formation  of  these  lenticular  concretions,  gcodes,  or  pisolites,  which  I 
cannot  believe  to  be  merely  concretions  of  sandstone  rolled  and  rounded 
by  the  action  of  water.  I  am  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  they  are 
masses  thrown  up  in  a  globular  form  by  some  subterranean  igneoua 
foToe,  and  falling  into  water  holding  much  mud  in  golution,  in  whick 
they  have  passed  from  a  pasty  condition  to  a  solid  consistency,  crystal- 
lising as  it  were  in  it  by  the  action  of  cold.  1  adopt  this  view,  bocaua© 
these  pisolites  (whether  geodes  or  not)  are  only  mot  with  in  this  distriot 
near  rapids  and  waterfalls,  in  localities  exhibiting  numerous  traces  of 
subterranean  fires,  formerly  much  more  active  and  powerful  than  now ; 
and  because  I  have  found  some  of  these  concretions  composed  of  iron 
pyrites,  cryatallislng  from  the  centre  outwards,  and  also  others  of  bog 
iron.  Whatever  may  be  the  method  of  furmation  of  such  singular  freata 
of  nature,  the  Athabasca  in  eroding  a  tortuous  and  deep  channel  through 
the  sandstone  of  Bark  Mountain,  finds  its  bod  obstructed  by  these 
gigantic  concretions,  which  are  the  sole  cause  of  its  rapida  and  render 
its  navigation  so  perilous  as  to  bo  well-nigh  impossible.  Besides  this 
danger,  great  numbers  of  them  are  exposed  on  the  sandj'^  surface  at  all 
heights  of  the  cliffs,  forming  immense  caps  constantly  threatening  the 
heads  of  the  unsuspecting  travellers  beneath. 

Remarkable  vegetable  foBsils  are  often  found  in  the  sandstone  of  this 
part  of  the  Athal<aaca,  imbedded  in  the  rock  but  capable  of  detachment 
with  the  hammer.  I  have  noticed  whole  trunks  of  Cupretsoxylon  (pro- 
bably a  Sequoia),  characteristic  of  the  tertiaries,  and  have  sent  specimens 
of  it  to  Montreal  and  Paris. 

Near  the  Clear-water,  pudding-stone  begins  to  appear  in  horizontal 
layers  from  the  level  of  the  water,  probably  also  reaching  below  it.  This 
conglomerate  is  here  overlaid  by  obliq^ue  stratifications  of  bituminous 
schist,  which  transude  asphalt  from  top  to  bottom.  The  savannas  and 
swamps  covering  the  surface  of  these  rocks  conceal  rich  mines  of  bitumen 
under  their  thin  coat  of  turf;  and  from  Point  Colbert  to  the  Pierre- 
tt-Calumets  river  they  have  given  rise  to  the  Chipewyan  name  of 
*'  Ellel'  Dess^,"  or  "  Eiver  of  the  moving  grounds." 

The  proximity  of  pisolites  and  considerable  deposits  of  quartzose 
sand  leads  me  to  the  belief  that  the  bituminous  matter  exuding  from 


THE  OVXABIAN  NOKTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


639 


lack  cliffis  of  the  Athabasca  is  Fimaphaltum  areniferuniy  characteristic 
of  the  tcrtiarics.     It  flows  in  summer  in  wide  sheets  from  the  schistoso 
flanks  of  the  cliffs  down   into  the  river,  mixing  with  the  eanJs  and 
solidifying  so  as  to  form  a  conglomerate  sometimes  softened  by  the  sun's 
rays  and  at  others  bard  and  brittle,  of  which  fragments  detached  by  the 
waters  are  carried  down  and  deposited  on  the  shores  of  the  Athabasca- 
Mackenzie  system,  where  they  could  bo  mistaken  for  nodules  of  basalt. 
They  acquire  an  astonishing   degree  of  hardness,  and  it  is   only  by 
^Accident  that  their  true  origin  is  eventually  discovered. 
H       The  bituminous  schists  are  replaced  at  intervals  by  a  shoU-bearing 
^pimestone  of  dolomitic  tendonoy,  sometimes  milky  white.     From  this  I 
™  liave  extracted  various  fossils,  including  Terchratul<e,  very  small  Belom- 
nites,  Atryi>a  reticularis,  Cyrtina  JiamiltinieTisis^  and  C,  umbracuhsa.     These 
limestone  strata  are  undulating,  and  occur  both  above  and  below  the 

•water-level. 
The  bhores  of  the  Athabasca  pi-esent  an  attractive  sight.  Far  from 
injuring  plant  hTo,  the  presonce  of  naphtha  and  the  subterranean  fires 
seem  to  have  imparted  now  vigour  to  it,  so  that  the  lofty  banks  have 
their  steep  slopes  covered  with  vigorous  and  varied  vegetation.  Besides 
white  pine,  larch,  aspen,  and  birch  (which  gives  its  nam©  to  the  Bark 
Mountain),  the  forest  trees  here  include  Virginian  pine,  cypress,  Banks's 
pine,  Weymouth  pine,  balsam-poplar,  alder,  and  many  kinds  of  willow. 

Along  its  waters,  discolomcd  by  muddy  matter  and  loaded  with 
deposits  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  prejudicial  to  fish-life,  I  have 
collected  a  large  number  of  medicinal  plants :  Geum  atridum  and  r»>a?e!, 
Verhascum,  Elctmjnwi  argeniea  (a  very  sweet-smelling  shrub  whoso  berries 
are  a  great  delicacy  to  bears),  Lmiicera  parvijlora^  Cypriptdium  with  its 
large  golden  lips,  saxifrages,  Polygala,  ErgihroniuM  dent-cants,  and 
beautiful  scarlet  lilies,  like  tho  Martagon,  which  would  be  an  ornament 
to  any  garden.  The  Indians  are  very  fond  of  the  bulbe  of  this  latter 
plant,  which  the  Tinney  *  call  "  T61e-nui6 "  (or  Crane  bread)  and  the 
Crees  **  Okitsanak."  The  eatable  Hedysarum  with  blue  flowers  and  the 
poisonous  one  with  yellow  (known  as  the  Travelling  Vetch)  are  found 
there  also.  The  male  fern  adorns  the  woods  wath  its  large  fronds,  and 
others,  such  as  Polypodium,  Capillary,  and  Scoloitendria^  carpet  the  mossy 
rocks  with  their  elegant  plumes.  But  the  most  abundant  plant  all 
along  the  river  is  sarsaparilla.  The  Tinney  of  the  Beaver  tribe  know 
this  smilaccous  plant  aa  a  febrifuge  and  sudorific,  and  collect  its  roots  ; 
but  they  are  not  aware  of  the  anti-syphilitic  properties  of  smilaciue,  a 
tannic  base  contained  in  it,  and  which  I  have  more  than  once  pointed 
out  to  them. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  I  have  never  heard  a  Cicada  in  tho  North- 
west,  though  on  two  occasions  (in  1876  and  1879)  I  satisfied  myself  of 

^P        *  Al«o  Tarioiuly  -written  as  Tiooel],  Tlon^,  'Dtiim^,  Dinn^,  Din^  Dimieh,  Den^,  fto, 
(meaning  "  men  "  or  "  people")— the  great  nortlicm  or  Athabascan  fiimily  of  Indlanu. 


mi 


ox  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


the  occurrence  of  those  insects  at  the  junction  of  the  Clear-water  and  thf. 
Athabasca,  though  I  only  fonnd  tbem  at  that  spot. 

The  wapiti  has  become  rather  nnoomraon  in  the  forests  of  the  Atha- 
basca, but  the  muose  is  frequently  met  with  there.  I  have  never  travelk'^l 
along  this  noble  river  (and  I  have  done  bo  six  times)  without  seeing  it, 
sometimes  as  many  as  three  individuals  together.  The  fnigivorous  blacli 
bear»  lynx,  beaver,  and  otter  are  common.  On  June  23rd,  1879,  I  met 
two  Cree  hunters  who  declared  that  since  the  spring  (i.  e.  in  less  thaii 
three  months)  they  had  between  them  killed  along  the  river  200  heaven, 
25  mooBO,  20  beans,  and  five  wapiti ;  and  I  may  add  that  from  exi)erietice 
of  the  Eedskins  I  know  they  are  more  given  to  diminish  than  to  ex- 
aggerate the  results  of  their  hunting.  This  shows  that  life  could  stiU 
be  maintained  on  the  river  if  there  existed  inhabitants  able  to  hunt  and 
provision  the  trading  posts.  But  from  the  drainage  of  the  Lesser  Slave 
Lake  to  Lake  Athabasca,  there  are  but  31  Crees  and  22  Ghipew^ 
women  and  children  all  told. 

The  original  mouth  of  the  Athabasca  is  now  distant  a  good 
navigation  from  the  lake.  It  is  shown  by  the  simultaneous  receding  of 
both  the  high  strands  forming  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  from  thia 
point  keep  widening  away  from  each  other  until  they  disappear  in  the 
interior.  A  flat  unifonn  plain  follows,  composed  of  accumulations  of  soil 
with  no  mixture  of  rock  and  covered  by  dense  forest  growth.  The  riv€x 
has  thus  actually  filled  up  its  own  ancient  estuary  with  the  material  it 
has  carried  along,  for  no  other  in  the  world  is  more  loaded  with  muddy 
deposits,  vegetable  detritus,  and  floating  trees. 

Almost  immediately  after  this,  the  rivor  divides  into  two  arms,  of 
which  only  the  right-hand  one  retains  the  name  of  Athabasca,  the  left 
taking  that  of  Embarras,  because  of  the  frequent  bars  made  across  it  by 
the  timber  borne  on  its  waters.  Further  on,  the  Athabasca  channel  ifl 
subdivided  into  three  other  branches,  of  which  the  central  was  the 
principal  channel  in  187I>,  whilst  the  left  one,  known  as  the  Brochets(ar 
Pike)  River,  rejoined  the  Embarras  branch.  But  all  these  channels  an? 
interconnected  by  a  multitude  of  creeks,  not  reckoned  by  the  natives,  as 
they  are  only  navigable  by  bark  canoes. 

Some  maps  make  tlie  river  Athabasca  communicate  with  Lake 
Mamawi  (or  Mamawa),  which  is  also  rejiresented  as  an  expansion  of  one 
of  the  mouths  of  the  Peace  Kiver ;  but  this  is  a  double  error.  Lake 
Mamawi  (meaning  in  Cree,  Eeunion  or  Assemblage)  receives  its  waten 
from  Clear  Lake,  with  w^hioh  it  communicates  by  a  very  short  arm  called 
the  Hay  River  ("  Klop^-djiethe  *') ;  and  Clear  Lake  itself  is  fed  from 
Bark  Mountain,  having  no  connection  with  the  Peace  River.  But  before 
entering  Mamawi,  the  waters  of  Clear  Lake  bifurcate,  the  left  channel 
discharging  under  the  name  of  the  *'  Des  Enfants  "  or  Children  Riv«^^, 
into  the  most  eastern  mouth  of  the  Peace  River,  called  "  Aux  CEafs " 
or  Egg  River,  which  flows  into  Lake  Athabasca. 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


641 


The  waters  of  Mamawi  are  also  drained  into  the  latter  basin  by 
fonr  chaunels,  of  which  the  right-hand  one  passes  direct  into  it,  the 
other  three  eventually  uniting  «in<l  emptying  into  the  eastern  mouth  of 
the  Peace  River,  •which  before  reaching  Lake  Athabasca  sends  out  an 
ftrm  towards  Lake  Mamawi.  This  quadruple  channel  bears  the  name 
of  the  Four  Forks,  and  is  the  cauBc  of  the  Crce  name  for  Mamawi. 
Very  curious  tidal  fluctuations  result  from  this  formation.  Li  ordinary 
leather,  with  things  in  their  normal  condition,  the  above  description  is 
'correct.  But  as  the  level  of  Lake  Athabasca  is  materially  heightened 
at  the  period  of  flood,  the  wators  of  its  basin,  or  more  correctly  the 
currents  of  the  Athabasca  which  cross  it,  flow  back  in  the  direction  of 
j_the  Four  Forks,  reaching  Lake  Mamawi  and  even  Clear  Lake  itself,  so 
tiat  they  connect  the  first  with  the  eastern  or  Embarras  channel  of  the 
Athabasca,  and  inundate  all  the  prairies  between  the  different  mouths 
of  that  great  river,  forcing  the  Egg  River  to  flow  back  to  the  main 
branch  of  the  Peace  River  which  joins  the  Great  Slave  River. 

Such  was  the  condition  of  the  estuary  of  the  Athabasca  and  its 

I  jnonths  in  Franklin's  time  (and  also  in  1876) ;  and  if  there  are  errors  in 

be  maps  of  that  time,  they  are  either  owing  to  incorrect  information 

'  or  to  misunderstanding  ;  for  I  can  scarcely  believe  that  the  first  explorers 

were  able  to  visit  aU  these  localities,  considtiriiig  the  short  time  they 

spent  in  the  country. 

The  vast  marshy  savanna  of  this  delta — an  ocean  of  tall  grass, 
mare's-tail,  Cyperus,  reeds,  and  willows,  intersected  by  numberless  miry 
creeks  always  covered  with  water-fowl — is  well  called  in  Cree  "The 
Herbaceous  Network,"  which  is  practically  the  meaning  of  Athabasca, 
Ayabasca,  Arabasca,  and  Wabasca,  in  the  Algonquin  dialects, — a  name 
applied  to  the  entire  lake  and  also  to  the  river  by  Europeans. 

There  are  often  not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  of  water  in  these 
eeks  of  the  Athabasca;  but  sometimes  the  whole  estuary  is  submerged 
and  boDimes  part  of  the  lake,  still  bearing  on  its  muddy  surface  a 
flotilla  of  huge  trees  which  have  got  locked  together  and  materially 
heightened  its  level.  I  saw  such  a  state  of  things  in  1871  and  1876 ; 
but  how  different  was  the  estuary  three  years  after!  At  that  time,  the 
channels  of  the  Athabasca  were  almost  dry  ;  the  main  current  had  left 
tie  central  one  and  gone  wholly  to  the  east,  and  the  savanna  of  the 
*©Btnary,  elevated  many  feet  above  it,  was  changed  into  an  immense  and 
perfectly  firm  prairie,  covered  with  young  willow  copses  and  dotted  witli 
water-holes.*  But  the  most  remarkable  thing  was  that  the  estuary  of  the 
Athabasca  had  entirely  left  this  high  and  dry  prairie,  and  betaken  itself 
to  a  point  between  its  old  mouth  and  that  of  the  Peace  River,  into  the 
Rocky  (or  Stony)  River,  the  drainer  of  the  great  lake.  The  expanse  of 
waters  l)etween  these  two  points  had  therefore  vanished,  and  the  once 
great  bay  of  Lake  Athabasca,  so  picturesque  with  its  chains  of  granitic 
♦  Soo  Macoun,  iu  Eep.  Geol,  Survey  Canada,  1875-76,  p.  91. 


6^ 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OP 


pine-olad  isles,  like  a  fleet  of  war-sbips  preparing  for  nautical  evolntia 
had  wholly  disappearod.  Perhapa  I  Bhould  more  correctly  flay  that  this 
IjaKin  of  five  to  six  leagues  still  existed  with  its  rocky  rim,  but  instead 
of  water  it  contained  grass  ;  instead  of  resembling  a  vast  turquoise  aet 
in  a  jasper  border,  it  seemed  an  emerald,  silver-veined.  This  part  of  fl 
the  lake  was  also  transformed  into  a  prairie,  from  Bustard  IsUnd  to  tho  ™ 
Eocky  River,  and  its  former  islands,  now  surrounded  by  fertile  land, 
only  lacking  the  itlough  to  produce  splendid  crops,  were  mere  isolated 
elevations— landmarks  destined  in  future  ages  to  show  that  once  tlie 
white  fish,  carp,  and  pike  disported  in  places  destined  I  hope  to  be  im- 
proved ere  long  by  high  cultivation^ 

This  condition  of  the  w*atcrs  endured  till  I  left  the  North-wost ;  for 
in  1881 ,  Mr.  E.  M'Farlane  wrote  to  me  that  this  drying-up  had  proved 
a  severe  calamity  to  the  Eedskins  of  the  lake,  who  had  hitherto  derivt?l 
plentiful  supplies  of  food  fi"om  the  woU-kno'«'Ti  fisheries  of  the  Four 
Forks  and  Bustard  Island,  now  of  course  entirely  destroyed. 

It  seems  that  the  four  mouths  of  the  Athabasca,  the  embouchure  of  ' 
Lake  Mamawi,  and  the  eastern  (or  Egg  Eiver)  channel  of  the  Peace 
Eiver,  retained  their  respective  currents  beneath  the  waters  of  the  lake 
before  filling  it  up ;  and  when  the  level  of  the  lake  had  become  eon- 
sidorably  heightened  by  their  numerous  interconnections,  their  beds 
remained  like  so  many  narrow  rivers,  which  now  run  through  the  dried- 
up  mud,  far  from  the  ancient  isles,  to  reunite  in  the  great  outlet  of  j 
the  Eocky  Eiver. 

Unless   some    extraordinary   flood    remodifies    this    newly    formed^ 
estuary,   the   Athabasca   district   will    thus  have   gained  an    immense  j 
sjiace  of  land,  excellent  for   cultivation,   and  not  requiring  artifio 
fertiliwvtion   for   very  many  years  ;  and  it    should  be  noted  that  tl 
climate  of  the  lake  is  far  from  being  an  obstacle  to  the  ripening 
cereals  and  vegetables,  for  at  the  Philadelphia  Centennial  Exhibition  in 
1876,  the   Catholic  Mission   near  Fort  Chipewyan  obtained   a  silver 
medal  and  honourable  mention  for  cereals  of  the  first  quality  and  re* 
markable  size.    In  fact,  the  chief  want  of  the  lake  district  as  regards 
colonisation  is  vegetable  mould.     With  the  exception  of  the  estuaiy 
above  mentioned,  and  of  the  still  more  extensive  and  no  less  extrs- 
ordinary  one  of  the  Peace  Kiver,  only  rocks  are  found  in  it ;  and  it  may 
be  said  vnth  truth  that  the  entire  north  from  the  Slave  Lake  and  River  , 
to  Hudson's  Bay  is  only  a  gigantic  bed  of  crystalline  rocks,  where 
planetary  nucleus  is  exposed  under  the  form  of  various  granites,  felsparJ 
syenite,  porphyry,  serpentine,  &c.     Vegetation  is  only  to  be  seen  in 
inequalities  of  the  stony  surface  or  depressions  in  these  products 
fusion,  where  the  action  of  water  has  not  entirely  cleared  away  theirl 
sandy  surface,  or  where  it  has  deposited  a  slight  layer  of  BedimentaryJ 
earth,  as   at  the  Chipewyan  Mission.     Conifei-s,  black  alder,  heatherj 
CistuB,  AhsinUUuvij  and  some  other  aromatic  plants  root  in  the  mea 


THE  CAN^IDUN  NORTU-WEST  TEKniTORY. 


643 


oil,  and  dimmish  the  melancholy  aspect  of  this  vast  exposed  portion 
'  the  frame  of  nature^ 

I  firmly  Ijclievo  that  all  the  grownd  reclaimed  from  the  Peace  and 
Athabasca  rivers  is  of  the  best  quality,  if  the  preaent  conditions  are 
maintained.  But  there  is  always  the  fear  of  some  exoeptional  rise  in 
the  waters  causing  a  sudden  flood,  of  such  a  nature  that  the  vast  plains 
recently  uncovered  might  bo  once  more  overrun  by  devastating  currents 
washing  away  their  soil  and  entirely  re-modifying  their  surface. 

I  have  travelled  over  the  whole  of  the  estuary  of  the  Peace  River  * 
above  referred  to,  and  found  it  no  less  curious  than  that  of  the  Atha- 
baflca.  As  before  mentioned,  its  first  or  most  eastern  channel  enters 
Lake  Athabasca  at  the  Four  Forks,  under  the  namo  of  Egg  Eiver  ;  and 
the  maps  are  quite  wrong  in  representing  the  Clear  Lake  Eiver  as  another 
mouth  of  the  Peace  Kiver.  But  between  the  Egg  River  and  the  Canard 
or  Duck  Portage,  where  there  are  unmistakable  traces  of  an  old  western 
channel,  this  river  has  four  other  openings  into  the  Slave  River,  withont 
connting  six  creeks,  originating  in  the  same  number  of  lakes  formed  by 
the  overflow  of  the  Peace  River,  but  with  no  currents  of  their  own  directly 
its  waters  retire.  Between  the  two  last-named  points,  therefore,  there 
ia  an  immense  plain,  comparable  in  fertility  with  the  delta  of  the 
<.'amargu©  in  Provence,  intersected  by  rivulets,  and  dotted  with  lakes 
and  ponds.  Forest  trees  have  sprung  up  in  it,  and  pine-crowned  hillocks 
rising  in  a  hundred  different  places  show  the  position  of  former  islands. 
Crops  of  the  highewt  quality  could  bo  raised  on  this  gigantic  and  well- 
watered  delta,  which  contains  prodigious  quantities  of  timber  deposited 
by  the  waters  during  past  ages,  I  am  firmly  of  opinion  that  the  coloni- 
sation and  cultivation  of  this  portion  of  the  Athabasca  district  desenx* 
serious  attention,  and  I  have  therefore  done  my  best  to  prepare  a  map  of 
those  two  great  estuaries  as  accurately  as  possible,  preserving  the  local 
names  of  the  lakes  and  water-ways.  This  map  is,  indeed,  the  chief 
result  of  my  labours. 

Besides  these  vast  deltas  there  are  other  lands,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Slave  River,  perfectly  fit  for  cultivation ;  this  is  indeed  proved  by 
the  old  settlement  of  the  Bcanlieu  family  on  the  banks  of  the  Salt  River; 
but  the  settler  there  would  have  to  struggle  against  inextricable  forests, 
and  an  entire  want  of  roads  or  other  communications,  withont  mention- 
ing other  serious  inconveniences. 

But  there  is  in  the  Athabasca  district  a  belt  not  ovemm  by  forest, 
and  which  has  nothing  to  fear  from  periodical  inundations;  where 
timber  only  grows  sufficiently  for  the  needs  of  colonists,  and  is  rarely  a 
mechanical  obstacle ;  well  covered  with  undergrowth  and  grass,  capable 
of  cultivation,  crossed  by  a  waggon  track,  watered  by  streams,  stocked 
with  fish-bearing  lakes,  and  offering  every  facility  and  advantage  for 

*  On  the  Peckoo  River  dititriot,  see  also  Dawson,  in  Rep.  Geol.  Burroj  Canada, 
879 -80,  (B)  p.  66  et  «j. 


GU 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


the  oonstniction  of  a  railroad.  I  refer  to  the  zone  of  natural 
along  tho  Rocky  Mountains,  from  tho  mountains  of  the  Upper  Saakat> 
che%irati  to  the  banks  of  the  Hay  River,  one  of  the  feeders  of  the  Great 
81ave  Lake.  I  have  been  told  by  very  many  persons  who  have  travulluj 
over  tho  Great  Prairie,  by  which  name  this  fertile  belt  is  known,  that  it 
comprises  every  condition  requisite  for  settlement,  as  well  as  being  rich  ia 
lumber  requisites  and  minerals  of  all  kinds.  Sulphur,  bitumen,  and  ooal 
crop  up  ia  many  places,  with  rock-salt,  iron,  native  cop|»er,  and  evcjj 
gold  (according  to  report).  Against  these  advantages,  must  be  set  ihu 
fact  that  the  means  of  subsistence  have  become  more  and  more  rare,  from 
the  rapid  diminution  and  imminent  extinction  of  the  animala  wlich 
supplied  tho  daily  food  of  the  Indians,  such  as  the  moose,  caribou,  wapiti, 
bison  of  the  woods  (a  distinct  species  from  the  musk-ox  and  prairie  biuoa), 
beaver,  porcupine,  &c.  The  musk-rat  alone  seems  not  to  have  failed  u 
yet,  and  continues  as  before  to  swarm  on  the  lakes,  ponds,  and  smallest 
streams.  I  can  only  regret  that  I  have  no  personal  knowledge  of  this 
fertile  region. 

n. 

Lake  Athabasca  is  the  smallest  of  tho  fresh-water  seas  which  stretch 
like  a  chain  from  tho  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  east  of 
the  Mississippi,  the  Rod  River  of  the  North,  and  the  Athabasca-MacksmM 
system. 

It  is  230  miles  long  by  20  miles  broad,  and  about  600  feet  above  the 
level  of  tho  Arctic  Ocean,  according  to  the  observations  of  General  Sir  ^ 
J,  H.  Lefroy.     Tho  position  of  Fort  Chipev^-yan,  the  headquartew  of  ^ 
the  district,  is  58°  43'  N,  lat,  and  111''  18'  32"  W.  long.;  that  of  Fort 
Fond-du~Lac  is  59°  20'  N.  lat.  and  107°  25'  W.  long.  ^ 

Like  a  number  of  other  lakes  in  this  region,  it  is  a  crystal  sheet  of  ^1 
water  lying  in  a  deep  bed,  granitic  at  the  north  end,  and  with  sandy  aod 
muddy  deposits  at  tho  south.     Three  of  its  sides  are  granite,  and  a  gn»t 
number  of  gianite  islands  thickly  set  with  pines  dot  its  surface.    But       , 
there  are  no  mountains  there,  and  Hearne,  the  first  explorer  in  177J,  fl 
would  have  been  more  correct  in  naming  it  Lake  of  the  Isles  than  Lake  ^^ 
of  the  Hills,  as  the  abundance  of  islands  strikes  the  traveller  at  tke 
first  glance. 

I  have  already  explained  the  Cree  moaning  of  Athabaaca.  The 
present  inhabitants,  tho  Chipewyan  Tinney,  call  it  "  Yetape-t'ue" 
(Lake  Superior),  or  more  habitually  "  Kkpay-t'ele-Kko,"  or  "Willow-bed, 
alluding  doubtless  to  the  deltas.  This  was  also  the  name  of  an  old 
trading  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Athabasca  river,  where  willows  were 
the  dominant  feature  of  the  vegetation,  only  conifers  and  aspens  being 
to  be  seen  elsewhero- 

The  nature  of  the  soil  of  the  lake  is  therefore  identical  with  that  of 
the  great  lakes  tributary  to  Hudson's  Bay,  such  as  Lakes  WoUastuu, 


I 

I 


THE  CANADUN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORV. 


645 


on,  Beaver,  and  Bear  Lakes,  tho  Lake  of  the  Woods,  and  Lake 
Winnipeg,  and  of  those  which  drain  to  tho  Atlantic,  such  as  the  Canadian 
lakes  proper. 

Tht>  fishes  of  the  lake  are  Core/jomis  Itiddus  or  VfhltQ  fish,  salmon  trout 
(which  there,  as  in  more  northern  waters,  reaches  35  lbs.  and  over), 
Canadian  trout,  OatasUmua  reficulatus,  Maekinong^  (Esox  eslor),  grey  and 
red  BUcking-carps,  Sandre  {Lucioperca  amerieanay  called  Dorey  by  tho 
Canadians),  the  golden-eyed  Lakoclio,  lamprey,  Methy  [Lota  wacix/oaa), 
&c.  I  only  refer  here  to  the  larger  species,  for  the  very  sufficient  reason 
that  the  smaller  ones  are  entirely  unkno'WTi. 

Tho  north  of  the  lake,  which  is  wholly  sterile  and  rocky,  only  affords 
support  for  caribou,  w^hich  find  a  palatable  food  in  various  lichens 
growing  there.  Tho  animals  and  plants  of  the  forests  and  prairies  to 
tho  south  have  already  been  referred  to. 

It  is  obviously  impossible  that  very  exact  cartographic  representa- 
iHtionB  should  exist  of  so  vast  a  lake,  which  has  only  once  or  twice  been 
visited  by  scientific  observers,  and  then  only  partially,  having  never  been 
explored  as  a  whole.  I  have  therefore  here  also  to  make  some  altera- 
tions in  the  maps  now  cnrrent.  It  would,  however,  be  wearisome  to 
enter  into  a  minutely  detailed  description  of  all  the  bays,  isles,  and 
capes,  for  which  the  map  accompanying  the  present  paper  must  be 
consulted. 

The  lake  receives  eleven  watercourses,  of  which  eight  (the  Peace, 
Mamawi,  Athabasca,  Little  Fork,  William's,  Unknown,  Beaver,  and 
Other-side  rivers)  are  on  its  south.  Tlie  Grease  and  Carp  rivers  enter 
into  it  from  the  Barron  Grounds  ;  and  tho  Great  Fond-du-Lac  river  flows 
in  on  the  east.  The  latter  drains  into  the  lake  the  waters  of  the  Great 
Black  Lake  and  the  Lake  of  the  Isles,  a  basin  dottetl  with  granitic  blocks 
and  fed  by  two  streams  which  are  practically  a  chain  of  small  lakes. 
The  most  sontherly  of  these  rises  at  the  foot  of  Beasts  Jlountain,  not  far 
from  W^ollaston  or  Great  Hatchet  Lake ;  the  northern  one  rises  near  Lake 
Caribou,  but  without  having  any  kind  of  communication  with  it. 

»It  was  doubtless  the  proximity  of  these  two  great  lakes  to  the  most 
Eastern  sources  of  Lake  Atliabasca  that  caused  Heame  to  believe  that 
Xake  Wollaston  was  connected  with  Hudson's  Bay  by  the  Cliurchill 
river,  and  with  the  Arctic  Ocean  by  Lake  Athabasca.  Nothing,  however, 
could  be*  more  incorrect.  The  most  northern  source  of  Lake  Wollaston  is 
tho  glacial  river  8i>ringing  from  the  elongated  granitic  water-parting 
before  mentioned.  This  lake  drains  into  Lake  Caribou  by  the  Canoe 
Kiver,  a  siraplo  connecting  arm,  and  communicates  with  the  Churchill 
River  by  the  Deer  liiver.  But  there  is  absolutely  no  communication 
between  the  lakes  occupying  tho  two  slopes  of  the  water-parting. 

I  have  therefore  corrected  four  geographical  mistakes  about  these 
Canadian  lakes,  to  which  various  drainages  have  hitherto  been  attri- 
buted.    The  first  mistake  refers  to  Lake  La  Bonge,  which  empties  into 


6«6 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


the  Cliiircliin,  and  whicli  was  also  said  to  open  into  the  Beaver  River ; 
but  I  showed  in  1873  that  the  Beaver  receives  the  La  Plonge  Eiver,  which 
rises  near  Lake  La  Eoiige,  though  not  biking  the  actual  waters  of  the 
latter  lake.  The  second  concerns  Lakes  WoUaston  and  Athabasca,  aa 
above  stated.  The  third  refers  to  the  Great  Bear  Lake,  to  which  Sir 
John  Richardson  attributed  three  outlets,  viz.  the  Bear  Lake  River 
and  the  Hareskin  River,  entering  the  Mackenzie,  and  the  Beghula 
River,  entering  the  Arctic  Ocean.  In  ascending  these  three  rivers  to 
their  rcBpective  sources,  I  proved  in  1869-70  that  the  Bear  Lake  has 
only  one  outlet,  viz.  tho  river  of  the  same  name ;  that  the  Hareskin 
river  flows  out  of  tho  Wind  Lake  near  Smith  Bay  in  Bear  Lake ;  a&d 
that  the  Anderson  (the  "Beghula"  of  Richardson)  rises  in  a  little  laks 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  *'  Ti-dt-pay  "  quite  to  the  north  of  and  some  distanoe 
from  Bear  Lake.  Lastly,  the  fourth  error  is  regarding  the  famous  grett 
lake  of  the  Eskimo,  to  which  various  openings  into  the  Arctic  Ootta 
were  attributed,  besides  one  outlet  in  the  mouths  of  the  Mackenzie  and 
another  in  the  Anderson  River.  It  is  now  known  that  this  lake  (the  siie 
of  which  Las  been  considerably  diminished)  has  but  one  outlet,  tho  river 
*'  Natowdja,'*  a  direct  tributary  of  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

I  have  also,  in  1879,  made  a  complete  survey  of  the  course  of  the 
Slave  River  from  the  great  lake  of  the  same  name  to  that  of  Athabasca, 
in  order  to  complete  my  former  work   on  the  Mackenzie  ;   and  it  is  i 
remarkable  that,  although  I  had  no  map  to  refer  to,  and  no  other  instni- 
ment  than  a  compass,  the  result  agreed  almost  exactly  with  Franklin's 
route-map  of  1820,  except  as  regards  some  islands  which  either  escaped  I 
his  observation  or  have  been  exposed  since  his  journey,  some  winU  r  * 
portages  that  he  never  crossed,  and  a  few  bends  in  the  liver  which  ho 
probably  passed  at  night-time. 

Above  the  rapids  formed  by  the  Caribou  range,  where  that  range  leaves 
the  left  bank  and  turns  off  towards  the  east,  along  the  course  of  the  great 
Bes  Seins  Eiver,  or  "  Thou-bau-desse,"  *  the  Slave  River  crosses  a  flat 
plain  covered  with  inextricable  forests,  apparently  reclaimed  by  degrees 
by  tho  sedimentary  deposits  of  its  muddy  waters.     This  river  has  no 
sandy  shores.     Its  muddy  banks  are  constantly  being  washed  off  on, 
one  side  to  be  deposited  on  tho  other.     At  times  they  give  way,  and  the  I 
current,  precipitated  with  violence  into  the  forests,  opens  fresh  channeh, 
whilst  the  old  ones,  obstructed  Ijy  the  mire  and  sand  brought  down^  are 
filled  up  and  transformed  into  a  marshy  savanna.     Tho  Duck  Portage 
was  formed  in  this  way.     Entering  it  from  the  north  (the  direction  J 
facing  tho  cuiTent),  the  idea  is  suggested  that  it  is  a  channel  of  the  \ 
river  or  one  of  its  affluents;  but  the  traveller  soon  finds  himself  in 

*  Tliia  river,  a  Bouthem  nffluemt  of  tho  Qreat  Plftve  Lnke,  is  apparently  represenUd 
on  M.  Petitot  a  map  by  the  "  Tal'tsau-Dessc  "  or  Yelluw  Knives  Kiver.  The  namo  nswl 
ill  tho  above  text  eeema  to  agireo  with  the  **  Thu-wu-ilcsfieh "  of  tho  luiip  of  Back'f 
"Narrative"  (183(J),  wliich  cntcra  tho  Slave  Lake  to  the  efiat  of  tho  moath  of  tho  SIstc 
liiver. 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


647 


an  immense  dried-iip  marsh,  quite  level,  and  entirely  composed  of 
black  viscous  mnd,  cracked  by  desiccation  and  covered  with  timber 
formerly  deposited  by  the  -waters.  Its  Chipe^vyan  name,  "  Tedh  dedh- 
hhU  t*u6"  (Floating-wood  Lake)  points  to  its  origin.  There  is,  how- 
^ever,  no  trace  of  any  lake ;  but  a  cliaiu  of  wooded  and  elevated  isles 
■  shows  tbat  this  is  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Slave  Eivcr,  which  after  filling 
it  with  muddy  depoaita  has  been  obstructed  in  ita  course  by  imbedded 

N timber  and  forced  to  break  a  passage  to  the  right  by  an  abrupt  eastern 
elbow.     I  think  this  alteration  of  course  has  been  effected  recently.     It 
may  perhaps  bo  the  outlet  which  I  saw  in  course  of  formation  in  1862, 
though  I  had  then  no  opportunity  of  accurately  fixing  ita  position. 
^^       During  extraordinary  floods^  the  surplus  waters  of  the  Slave  River 
^hpread  over  this  great  marsh  and  sc^^ur  the  Duck  Portage,  but  at  an 
^Hg^>ooh  before  the  formation  of  tho  present  bed,  when  tho  Duck  Portage 
^pvras  the  ordinary  channel,  the  overflow  ptissed  to  tho  left  by  another 
natural  channel,  now  dry.     This  shows  a  gradual  tendency  of  the  Slave 
Bivcr  towards  the  east  in  this  district.     The  conditions  above  referred 
to  as  existing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Athabasca,  are  also  shown  at  the 
Hinouth  of  this  river,  for  tho  current  iias  so  clogged  its  bed  and  filled  up 
^Hts  estuary  as  to  be  compelled  to  divide  and  make  its  way  across  the 
^Hiedimentary  deposits  of  its  delta,  which  it  cuts  up  into  a  great  number 
^^of  mud  islanda. 

The  first  and  oldest  of  ita  branches  contained  large  and  lofty 
islands,  identical  as  to  soil  with  the  mainland,  and  wooded  like  it  with 
white  pines,  Populns  hahamifera^  aspens,  and  birches  whose  venerable 
trunks  show  an  existence  of  at  least  six  or  eight  centuries.  If  a  line  be 
drawn  on  the  right  from  this  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Seins  Eiver, 
and  on  the  left  to  that  of  the  Oxen  Itiver,  a  triangle  or  delta  will  be 

I  described  wholly  occupied  by  the  ancient  and  recent  mouths  of  the 
^ver.  The  latter,  after  dividing  into  three  channels,  is  subdivided  into 
Iwo  great  median  arms,  of  which  the  eastern  one  is  called  Jean's  Eivcr, 
I  corruption  of  the  Chipowyan  name  **  Dzan-des-tchu,"  literally  Mud- 
nver  end,  or  Muddy  mouth.  Up  to  this  point,  standing  trees  are  found 
in  the  delta,  but  they  are  no  longer  coniferous,  thus  showing  that  the 
islantls  are  of  later  formation.  As  the  channels  subdivide,  vegetation 
^^lecreases  with  them  ;  aspens,  poplars,  and  alders  have  disappeared,  and 
^hnly  small  willows,  six  to  eight  feet  high,  are  found.  Still  lower  down, 
nothing  is  found  but  reeds,  bulrushes,  and  at  last  only  mare's-tail 
{Equisetuvijy  an  exclusively  aquatic  growth  entirely  covered  during  floods. 
Such  are  tho  products  of  tho  last  sedimentary  formations,  which  are 
not  yet  consolidated.  Between  them  and  the  lake  extends  a  moving 
bog,  fluctuating  with  tho  waters,  which  cover  it  for  a  few  inches.  Any 
unfortunate  boat  running  into  this  mud  will  infallibly  become  aa  firmly 

(ibedded  as  the  innumerable  tree-trunks  whose  roots  are  horizontally 
jiosed  above  ita  surface.     Some  years  hence,  these  unsolid  and  un- 


648 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


fathomable  banks  will  become  firm,  and,  aided  by  the  accumtilations 
and  drj-ing  effecte  of  frosts  in  winter,  will  form  new  ifilands  man 
and  more  cncroacbing  on  the  Slave  Lake. 

During  the  210  miles  of  the  course  of  the  Slave  River,  it  only 
receives  two  afBnents,  ono  on  each  bank,  viz.  the  Dogs  and   the  Salt  J 
rivers,  the  first  of  which  is  above  and  the  second  below  the  llapMi  1 
interrupting  its  navigation. 

The  maps  of  Lake  Athabasca  give  indeed  its  southern  affluents,  Wt ' 
two  of  these,  the  Unknown  and  Beaver  rivers,  are  not  repreeeutod  as ' 
being  of  large  dimensions,  nor  are  the  lakes  from  which  they  spring 
shown  as  being  within  so  comparatively  short  a  distance  of  the  Ucnfr' 
trine  enlargement  of  the  Churchill  known  as  Lake  Lacrosse,  that  passage 
from  the  latter  to  the  tributaries  of  Lake  Athabasca  could  bo  mEide  bj 
the  head- waters  of  the  Caribou  river.  I  have  thought  it  right  to  rename 
these  two  great  rivers  and  the  lakes  from  which  they  spring  after 
Messrs.  C.  P.  Gaudet  and  E.  M*Farlane,  as  a  mark  of  my  respect  and 
gratitude. 

111. 

The  first  person  entitled  to  honour  as  the  explorer  of  Lake  Athabaso, 
was  Samuel  Heame.     He  discovered  it  in  1771,  and  named  it  *'  Lake  of  J 
the  Hills."     Seven   years  afterwards,  the  North-west   Company  sent 
thither  a  Canadian,  Joseph  Frobisher,  who  founded  the  first  trading- 1 
post.     The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  soon  followed  the  example  of  its  i 
rival,  80  that  here,  as  in  many  other  places,  these  two  commercial  bodies 
found  themselves  in  competition  at  an  early  date.     Nevertheless,  th^^H 
discoveries  of  Hearne,  of  Peter  Pond  in  1779,  and  even  of  Sir  Alexander^ 
Mackenzie  in  1789,  however  authentic  and  scientific,  were  apparently 
anticipated  by  the  far-reaching  tracks  of  the  Courreurs  de  Bois;  for 
when  Pond  reached  the  Great  Slave  Lake /the  half-breed  Canadian  family 
of  Beauliou  had  already  settled  on  the  Salt  Kiver — one  of  them,  named 
Jacques,  indeed  acted  as  interpreter  for  this  trading  officer,  just  as  at  a  ^ 
later  date  his  nephew  Fran9ois  was  Sir  John  Franklin's  hunter  and^ 
interpreter. 

In  1820,  and  again  in  1829,  Sir  John  Franklin,  accompanied  by 
Lieutenant  Back  and  Dr.  Richardson,  visited  Athabasca  on  their  way  to  I 
the  Arctic  Ocean,  when  commencing  their  explorations  for  the  famooi 
North-West  passage.  The  portrait  drawn  by  theso  travellers  of  tte 
Chipewyan  Tinney  (whom  they  also  call,  though  wrongly,  Alhft- 
bascans)  is  anything  but  a  flattering  one,  and  shows  the  recent  change 
for  the  bettor  in  the  character  and  disposition  of  these  Indians.  I  cin 
myself  speak  of  as  great  an  alteration  in  the  Beaver  Indians,  who  ire 
now  as  gentle  and  inofi"enBive  as  they  wero  thievish,  shifty,  and  faithloM 
twenty-five  years  ago.  This  is  the  natural  efiect  of  the  commercial 
relations  and  religious  habits  acquired  since  that  date  by  those  child-hk© 
tribes. 


the 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TZKRITOliT.  649 

The  ChipowyanB,  without  being  as  timid  as  their  northern  brethren, 
who  deserved  the  uncomplimentary  epithet  of  **  Shives "  boatowod  on 
them  by  the  first  explorers,  are  now  a  gentle,  peaceful,  and  honest 
people,  comparatively  chaste  and  religious,  though  they  may  perhaps 
be  aooused  of  being  a  little  too  morose  in  disposition  and  fond  of 
solitude.  The  Catholic  Missionariea  first  visited  them  in  1847,  and  two 
years  later  settled  among  them.  In  1866  or  1868,  if  I  remember  rightly, 
a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England  was  domiciled  at  Fort  Chipe- 
wyan  ;  and  lastly,  in  1875,  the  Montreal  Sisters  of  Charity  founded  a 
school  with  an  orphanage  and  hospital  there.  This  fort  has  for  some 
years  been  the  seat  of  an  Anglican  bishop. 

From  the  time  of  the  historian  Charlevoix,  a  vague  acquaintance 
witli  Lake  Athabasca  must  have  existed  in  Canada,  for  he  speaks  of 
the  Dog-rib  Indians  and  the  "Savanois"  (now  called  "Mashk^gous" 
[Maskigos]  or  swamp-dwellers),  the  former  of  whom  lived  at  the  north 
and  north-east  of  the  lake,  while  the  hunting-grounds  of  the  latter  were 
to  the  east  and  south-east. 

At  this  date,  the  Ayis-iyiniwok  or  lyiniwok  (Men),  called  by 
Duponceau  *'  Killistini,"  by  the  Ojibbeways  "  Kinistinuwok,"  and  by 
the  French  "Cristineaux"  (also  called  *'  Kiistinos"  and  "Knistineaux"), 

m  which  have  finally  been  derived  the  names  Cris,  Crees,  Kree,  and 
Kri,  lived  on  the  banks  of  the  Beaver-Churchill  river,  which  they 
called  Great  Water  (Missi-Nipi),  as  well  as  on  the  shores  of  Cross  Isle 
Lake,  Moor-hen  Lake,  Cold  Lake,  &c.  In  short,  they  occupied  the 
country  between  the  Savanois  Indians  on  the  oast  and  the  Grandes- 
pagnes  (also  called  Prairio-Crees),  on  the  west.  The  Chipewyans  at 
that  time  lived  along  the  course  of  the  Peace  River,  after  crossing  the 
Bocky  Mountains,  not  having  yet  ventured  down  into  the  country  now 
occupied  by  thom  between  the  Great  Slave  Lake  and  Frog  Portage  on 
the  English  Pdver,  It  was  in  fact  their  primitive  home  in  the  Eocky 
Mountains  that  originated  the  Canadian  namo-^'Montagnais"  or  High- 
landers for  these  Tinney,  who  now  live  in  a  flat  country. 

Lake  Athabasca,  the  Slave  River,  and  the  shores  of  the  Great  Slave 
Lake  were  the  exclusive  territory  of  another  tribe  of  Tinney,  to  whom 
th©  epithet  of  Slaves  was  given,  from  their  natural  timidity  and 
oowardice.  They  themselves  recognised  two  divisions,  people  living 
among  the  hares  (or  nortliem  Tinney),  and  among  the  rabbits  (mean- 
ing the  Chipewyans).  The  latter  name  is  applied  by  the  Crees  to  the 
entire  Tinney  nation,  and  means  "Tailed  men,"  i.e.  men  clothed  in 
tailed  skins.  This  arose  from  the  fact  that  all  the  Tinney,  like  the 
modem  Dindjies  of  Alaska,  used  to  wear  a  fringed  robe  of  moose  or 
xeindeer  skin,  ending  in  a  long  point  in  front  and  behind. 
I  The  Indians  using  the  Algonquin  tongue,  such  as  the  Crees,  Savanois, 
Grands-pa gnes,  and  Ojibbeways,  carried  on  a  pitiless  war  against  the 
Athabascan  Tinney  or  Slaves,  who  from  natural  timidity  gave  up  their 

No.  XI.-^Nov.  1883.J  2  u 


650 


OX  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


territory  to  their  enemies,  and  fell  back  on  tlie  Great  Slave  Lake,  punned 
by  the  Creea,  ^ho  made  a  great  slaugliter  among  them.  YarioiiB  islands 
and  archipelagos  retain  the  name  and  the  memory  of  these  dreaded 
Bnnas  (strangers,  enemies),  including  Bead  Men's  Isle,  v^hich  keeps 
alive  to  this  day  the  recollection  of  the  defeat  of  the  Katch^-Ottine, 
snhsequently  called  Slaves.  From  that  time,  this  portion  of  tho  Tinney 
family  never  ventured  south,  but  remained  in  the  cold  lauds  and  swampy 
forests  of  tho  north,  where  they  became  split  up  and  settled  under  the 
names  of  Dog-ribs,  ITareskiiis,  Highlanders,  Slaves,  itc.  Their  different 
tribal  dialects  vary  but  slightly  inter  se,  differing  much  more  wid<dy 
from  the  Chipewyan. 

The  Eillistino  or  Crecs,  established  on  Lake  Athabasca  and  iU 
tributaries  and  drainers,  found  themselves  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the 
Chipew^-an  Tinney  arriving  from  the  west  by  the  Peace  River  (called 
Amisko-Sipi  or  Beaver  River  by  the  Crees),  thus  proving  that  the  Tinney 
family,  or  at  least  its  northern  tribes,  are  of  later  origin  on  the  American 
contiueut  than  tho  Killiui  or  Hillini  Lleni.  But,  being  as  brave  as,  if 
not  braver  than,  the  invaders,  they  offered  such  a  resistance  that 
prisoners  and  slaves  were  made  on  both  sides.  Meanwhile  the  Engliah 
appeared  in  Hudaon^s  Bay  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missi-Nipi  (caliod 
English  Eiver  from  them),  and  founded  a  factory  there  named  Churchill, 
after  the  then  Prime  Minister  of  England.  This  became  the  medium  of 
comiaorce  between  the  coast  Eskimo,  the  Savanoia,  and  the  Crees  of  the 
interior. 

Before  the  Hudson^s  Bay  Cympany  sent  Heame  to  explore  the 
interior,  a  Chipewyan  woman  named  Tha-narelthor  (Palling  Sable), 
was  carried  off  by  a  Savanois  war-party,  and  taken  in  captivity  to  the 
ahore-region  of  Hudson's  Bay.  She  saw  with  astonishment  in  the  tenta 
of  her  captors  domestic  utensils  and  arms  entirely  new  to  her,  and  as  she 
at  first  believed  them  to  be  of  native  manufacture,  she  admiretl  the 
intellectual  superiority  of  the  Killini,  and  determined  to  remain  with  a 
people  so  superior  to  herself  in  intelb'gence  and  cleverness.  But  she  did 
not  live  among  them  long  before  detecting  from  their  ways  and  oeaseleoK 
wanderings  that  they  obtained  these  things  from  strangens,  in  exchange 
for  peltry  and  provisions.  This  traflGic  puzzled  the  captive,  but  as  sha 
imagined  that  the  original  possessors  of  the  riches  bestowed  upon  the 
Savanois  must  be  their  relations  or  allies,  she  never  thought  of  taking 
refuge  with  them  and  begging  their  protection.  Only  after  some  years  of 
harsh  captivity,  did  she  discover  that  tho  '*  Agayasieu  "  (the  Cree  name 
for  the  English),  who  supplied  the  Crees  and  Savanois,  belonged  to  an 
entirely  strange  race,  good-natured  and  generous,  friendly  with  all  the 
aborigines,  and  coming  from  tho  far  east  to  trade  with  them.  Her  mind 
was  then  soon  made  up.  She  succeeded  in  reaching  Fort  Churchill 
alone,  and  as  she  had  learned  enough  of  the  Algonquin  dialect  to  nuUte 
herself  understood  by  the  interpreters  of  the  fort,  she  was  enabled  to  l<7t 
the  Hudfloc's  Bay  Company's  officers  know  that  she  belonged  to  the  gwat 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITOET.  BH 

nation  of  "  Men  "  (Tinnoy),  living  far  oflf  in  the  wcat,  and  profesBing 
honesty  and  fafr-bchaviour  like  the  English.  She  expressed  her  de- 
termination of  returning  to  her  ovra  people,  and  begged  for  aiaistance 
on  the  way  homo,  promising  to  establish  friendly  relations  between  her 
oonntrymen  and  the  officers  of  the  company,  who,  glad  of  the  ojxportnnity 
of  extending  the  sphere  of  their  commercial  transactions,  gave  her  a 
Bledge  and  dogs,  with  varions  presents,  and  a  safe  condnct  through  the 
land  of  the  Killini-  Attracted  by  these  presents,  the  Chipewyant  at 
once  undertook  the  long  voyage  from  the  Peace  River  to  the  month  of 
the  Churchill,  calling  the  fort  "The-ye"  (stone  house),  and  its  in- 
habitants **  The-ye  Ottine  "  (men  of  the  stone  house),  a  name  by  which 
the  Engjish  are  still  kno^ro  among  the  Tinney. 

■  These  relations  continued  to  the  time  when  Joseph  Frobiahtr 
established  Fort  Chipewyan,  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Athabasca,  in  ITTfi, 
for  the  North-west  Company,  at  which  date  there  were  as  many  as 
1200  Redskins  settled  on  the  lake.  But  the  white  man  brought  with 
him  the  horrible  disease  of  small -pox,  till  then  unknown  to  the 
Americans,  which  mado  great  ravages  among  the  Tinney,  and  neve 
than  decimated  the  Crees,  driven  to  the  southern  part  of  the  lake  by 
the  warlike  attitude  of  the  Chipewyans-  Influenza,  an  ejridemic 
^k  catarrhal  a£fection  attacking  the  tribes  at  regular  intervals  of  abont 
seven  years,  completed  the  work  of  tho  small-pox.  Reduced  to  a  very 
small  number,  the  Crees  ceased  all  hostile  action  against  tho  Chipe- 
wyans, who  had  become  their  superiors  both  in  numbers  and  strength ; 
so  that  the  possession  of  the  lake,  and  indeed  of  the  tenitory  of  Atha- 
basca, remained  with  the  Tinney,  who  permitted  a  few  Crees  and 
Savanois  to  remain  among  them. 

From  Athabasca,  tho  Chipewyans  spread  north  by  degrees  towards 
the  shores  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  east  and  north-east  towards 
Hudson's  Bay,  whoit?,  having  met  with  vast  herds  of  wild  reindeer, 
they  settled  on  the  Barren  Grounds,  living  from  that  time  in  oommon 
under  the  names  of  Yellow-knives  ("  T'altsan  Ottine  "),  and  Caxibou- 
K  eaters  ("Ethon  eld61i").  Such  of  these  as  remained  attached  to  the 
V  Churchill  tradere,  took  tho  name  of  tho  latter  and  are  still  known  to 
their  western  fellow-tribesmen  as  **  Th^-ye  Ottine  " ;  finally,  many  of  theta 
even  ventured  south  to  Lake  La  Bicho,  Cold  Lake,  Lake  La  Rongc,  Cross 
Island,  Heart  Island,  etc.,  where  they  boar  the  name  of  "  Thi-lan  Ottine  " 
(Men  of  the  end  of  the  head). 

^Vhen  leaving  the  fertile  plain  watered  by  the  Peace  River  and  its 
affluents,  the  Chipewyan  Tinney  were  hard  pressed  by  a  tribe  still  more 
warlike  than  themselves,  namely  the  Secanais  or  "  The-kke  Ottine " 
(Men  who  live  on  the  mountains),  who  in  their  turn  had  come  from  tho 
western  slope  of  the  Rockies,  where  they  left  tribes  identical  with  them- 
selves as  to  language  and  customs. 

As  to  tho  Beaver  Tinney,  they  crossed  the  mountains  to  the  south 
and  reached  the  plains  of  tho  Saskatchewan,  where  still  lives  a  remnant 

2  u  2 


653 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


of  tliifl  people,  the  Sarcia  (in  Cree,  "  Sars^wi  ")  whose  Black-foot  i 

means  bad  (from  "  Sa  araey,"  not  good). 

Hoame  permitted  tlio  association  of  some  CbipewyanB  on  hU  ex»| 
pedition  to  the  Copper-mine  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  with  | 
a  result  that  is  well  known,  as  is  also  the  massacre  committed  by  hi* 
followers  among  the  Eskimo. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  not  long  in  founding  a  trading' 
post  on  Lake  Atljabasca,  establishing  one  under  the  name  of  Woddej. 
bume  on  an  islot  near  Fort  Chipewyan.  This  remained  till  1821. 
when  the  rival  companies  united  their  interests  and  put  an  end  to  th«ir 
regrettable  hostilities. 

Commerce  and  religion  have  materially  civilised  the  manjieis  and 
character  of  the  Cree,  Ohipewyan,  and  Beaver  Indians  inhabiting  tli* 
Athabtisca  district.  They  are  at  present  qniet>  peaceable,  inoffeueivo, 
and  friendly  to  tlie  white  man,  but  very  much  diminished  in  nnmben^ 
the  failure  of  animal  life,  and  the  extraordinary  decrease  for  mauy 
years  in  the  watera  of  the  rivers  and  lakes,  which  has  destroyed  fiah-life 
to  an  immense  extent  and  driven  away  wild-fowl,  having  caused  such  « 
famine  that  many  died  of  hunger  and  miserj'  between  1879  and  1881. 
There  were  900  Chipcwyans  and  300  Crees  at  Fort  Chipewyan  in 
1862,  but  in  1870  I  could  only  find  637  Chipewyans  and  86  Cre«, 
even  including  those  living  on  the  river  Athabasca.  Now^  there  is  but 
one  single  family  of  Creos  at  the  lake,  and  the  remnants  of  the  tribe 
have  gone  away  to  join  their  fellows  of  the  Peace  Eivor. 

The  same  fate  has  befallen  the  Chipewyans.  In  their  total  of  500 
must  be  reckoned  those  of  Fort  Smith,  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  the 
Slave  River,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Salt  River,  and  many  families  of  tbe 
Great  Slave  Lake  and  Ox  River. 

In  short,  the  Athabasca  district,  comprising  the  Peace  River  and 
parts  of  both  the  Lesser  and  Great  Slave  Lakes,  now  contains  no  more 
than  2268  souls,  including  150  half-castes  and  57  white  men  of  various 
origin — English,  Scotch,  Irish,  and  French-Canadians. 

The  following  are  the  exact  statistics  in  1879,  for  which  I  am 
indebted  to  Mr,  R.  M'Farlane,  the  chief  of  the  district : — 


Tlnney, 


Creea.     ,Ualf-cii&te«. 


WTiilo. 


Ohipevvan,   Bmitb,   and  Small    Bed   BiTer,!     ^_ 

Fond-tlu-LftO 

Resolution  (Sliiive  Lake)    ..      

Venwilion  (Pe»aco  River) 

MncMurrjy  (Clear-water  River) 
Diinvt^fjan  (Peace  River)  and  Battle,  ttigethcr 
St.  John    or  D'Epiuettu  (.Ptuce  Kiver)   andll' 
Slave  Lake,  togetlivr      ..      .,      / 


195 


86 


1  1810  251 

Gmnd  totnl  of  the  AUmUosca  district,  22G8. 


50 


15 


150 


28 


W 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY.  663 

The  following  statistics  of  the  whole  Athabasca  and  Mackenzie  Bed- 
skin  population  (including  women  and  children),  were  collected  with 
great  care  by  myself  in  varions  localities  which  I  have  visited  or  stayed 
in  at  different  times.  I  have  before  me  synoptical  tables  by  tribes  and 
families,  including  even  the  names  of  the  individuals. 

Great  Slave  Lake. 

F«tE«,l.««o.  186^64 {    ^STwXTvo.-     "     Z     i!     ^ 

577 

Fort  Bae,  1864 Dog-ribs        788 

Mackenzie. 

Providence,  1871        Slaves  or  Eioha-ottin^ 300 

Black  Lake  Biver,  1878 Etcha-ottind 115 

Hay  Biver,  1874 „     „        100 

Fort  Simpson,  1873 „      „         300 

(Slaves  or  Etcha-ottin^..  ..  97 
Dog-ribs  47 
Mountain  Indians  ..  ..  43 
Harmkins      85 

— —    272 
Fort  Good  Hope,  1867       Hareskins      422 

{Dindjic     or    Louchenx, 
Quarrellers,  Kutohin      ..      ..       290 
Eskimo  of  the  Anderson     ..     250 
„  „     Mackenzie    ..     300 

— ^—    550 

Forts  Liard  and  Nelson,  LiardBiver      ..     {    ^gi^^^*"*^   ^f   "^f*^.?      ,.    500 

Population  of  the  Mackenzie     ..  4214 
Athabaaaa. 

Chipewyans 537 


Forts  Chipewyan  and  Smith,  1879  ..     ..     /    c^''^?!"  *.*.     !*.     "     '.'.    ^86 

623 

Fond-du-Lac,  1879 Caribon-eaters       318 

VermiUon,  Peace  Biver,  1879 /    Crees* "  .'.*     ." ^^ 

Fort  MacMunay,  Athabasca  Biver,  1879      i    Cmm^*.°*  '.'.     '.'.     "     ".      22 
Fort  Dnnvegan,  Peace  Biver,  1879..     ..     {    g^Jg"'' ^^^  f^°^^  ;;     ;;     }^ 


240 

53 

332 
Fort  St.  John,  Peace  Biver,  1879.  Lesser    |    Secanais 195 


Slave  Lake 


Population  of  the  Athabasca      ..  1761 
Maximum  total  * 5975 


*  These  figures  may  be  compared  with  similar  but  less  detailed  statistics  collected 
by  Captain  (now  Sir  Henry)  Lefroy  in  1844,  and  published  in  the  Proceedings  of  the 
Canadian  Institute,  1853.  They  were  also  based  on  the  books  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  trading  posts  and  the  personal  knowledge  of  its  officers.  The  enumeration 
of  the  Tinney  under  various,  subdivisions  comes  to  1592  men,  estimated  to  represent 
7575  souls.  To  these  were  added,  at  Fort  Chipewyan,  Lesser  Slave  Lake,  and  Isle  k  la 
Crosse,  209  families  of  Crees,  estimated  at  1081  souls.  The  Indians  have  apparently, 
therefore,  decreased  in  numbers  since  1844. 


^H 


ON  THE  ATHABASCA  DISTRICT  OF 


Tov  oQoimercial  statistics,  I  mtist  refer  to  the  Hudscm's  Bay  Goo 
pany,  liavkig  made  it  a  rule  in  the  performanoe  of  my  duties  as 
nusaibnary  neyer  to  interfere  in  the  least  with  business  matters.  It 
ef  course  well  known  that  the  main  produce  of  the  region  consists  of  fi 
and  beaver  skins. 

I  may  conclude  this  paper  with  the  following  table  of  temperature 
taken  by  myself  at  Lake  Athabasca  in  March,  April,  and  May  1879,  firoi 
whick  I  found  that  the  spring  there  wKs  at  least  quite  a  month  i 
advance  of  that  of  the  66th  north  paralleL 


Dftte: 

We»ther. 

Tempentores. 

ObBemtloDiL 

Taji. 

Noon. 

1879 

«  Fahr. 

©Fahr. 

"■*" 

Marah  1 

Fine 

1-40 

«       2 

Cloudy 

1-40 

«       3 

Fine 

—   9-40 

.       »       4 

ff 

-    7-60 

"     a 

yy 

-  16-60 

„       6 

ff 

-18-40      • 

.,       7 

Show 

5 

14 

„       8 

Fine 

-    9-40 

»       9 

9y 

-    7-60 

• 

,;     10 

Caoudy 

-   4     . 

,,    n 

Fine 

-  23-80 

»     12 

M 

-25-60 

„      13 

n 

-    4 

.,     H. 

jt 

-  18-40 

„  ••  15 

Thawing  in  snn 

-22 

„     16 

,t 

-   9*40 

14 

,.     17 

ii 

-    5-80 

„     18 

Fine 

-11-20 

„     19 

yt 

-13 

„     20 

Thawing 

-   4 

21-20 

»     21 

Snow 

6-80 

24-80 

,.     22 

Fine 

-   4 

„     23 

Cloudy 

6-80 

V     24 

Fine 

17-60 

26-60 

;.  25 

n 

14 

„     26 

Windy 

10-40 

«     27 

tf 

8-60 

,.     28 

Fine 

17-60 

„     29 

» 

5 

„     30 

„ 

10-40 

„.   31 

» 

14 

AprU  13» 

Fine 

50 

•• 

Water    nmnii 
gutters. 

.,     14 

» 

55-40 

„     15 

t, 

59 

„     16 

Snow 

53-60 

•• 

Pools  of  wate 
lake-ice. 

«     17 

Fine 

35-60 

n     18- 

Rainy 

46-40 

.. 

Ice  dry. 

„     19 

1, 

35-60 

n     2ft 

n 

46-40 

,, 

WUd  duck  1 

*     21 

Fine 

35-60 

53-60 

*  1T.B. — ^1^0  record  kept  till  the  13th.    A  considerable  rise  in  temperat 
theintervaL 


THE  CANADIAN  NORTH-WEST  TERBITOET. 


66S 


ToBipenilura.                   ] 

TMi 

L 

Wutbur.           ^ 

Obsemtkui. 

7  AM, 

Koou, 

1B79 

, 

^F«hr. 

*>  F*Jir- 

April 

23 

Fine  sjid  wlndj 

59 

.. 

Frop:B  CTORkitig, 

TJ 

23 

n                    ti 

i2-80 

<. 

Mcitq,uitc«3, 

24 

Fme 

32-90 

46-40 

StarlingB  Been, 

n 

25 

35'tJtt 

Thrtt&Ucs;  fliea. 

It 

26 

»• 

37-40 

i!i5*40 

PalicttH ;  bircli-syrap 
making  begiiiB  i 
edges  of  the  lake 
quile  free  from  icje. 

If 

S7 

Bafnjr 

37*0 

.. 

Buddm^ 

tf 

S8 

?* 

32 

4U-40 

beetles  :  AtumoM 
ploughing. 

» 

29 

Fine 

m 

SO 

IT 

30 

w 

35-60 

"* 

Brv^icing<tip  of  the 
lake-ice ;  wlUovB 
bad. 

May 

1 

flnfl 

50 

60'80 

Sowing. 

M 

Si 

1* 

4G'  10 

00-80 

White  and  grey 
geeso  leon. 

11 

3 

Bsinj 

46-iO 

•- 

Water  very  low; 
iakia  dry;  ground 
£ieen. 

f 

4 

Cloudy 

SO 

» 

5 

FiM 

40-40 

*• 

(Pemiy-Toyftl ;  yellow- 
hammers  I? S^tvi* 
cola  CBttieo];  gooao- 
benybiiflh««flhe)!W> 
luglMvefl. 

l» 

e 

n 

50 

» 

7 

»f 

4«-40 

»i 

8 

Wmdy 

41 

., 

lee  entirely  gone. 

*» 

9 

Fine 

46-40 

■; 

Cmnea;  white  fiflh 
plentiful^  but  dy- 
ing from  vralt  of 
vrater,  and  killed 

. 

with  sticks  m  the* 

diy  chattneU. 

ft 

10 

Cbld 

41 

*I 

11 

Rnow 

32 

ff 

12 

Uno 

33-80 

«f 

13 

n 

35*60 

I» 

U 

» 

46-40 

)I 

15 

)t 

42-SO 

n 

16 

11 

32 

37*40 

» 

17 

ti 

m 

)i 

18 

ft 

43' so 

t) 

10 

Qondy 

39-20 

t) 

20 

Fine 

4G-40 

Tl 

21 

ft 

50 

?» 

22 

n 

^ 

f* 

23 

Cold  winds 

42-80 

(    656    ) 


GEOGBAPmCAL  NOTES. 

Exploration  of  New  Oumea. — The  Council  of  the  Britifih  Association, 
at  the  recent  Southport  meeting,  adopted  a  recommendation  from  the 
Geographical  Section,  having  for  its  object  the  exploration  of  the  interior 
of  New  Guinea.  A  committee  was  formed  (with  power  to  add  to  their 
number),  for  the  purpose  of  advising  the  Council  of  the  Association  oai 
tho  mode  of  proceeding,  ita  members  being  Lord  Aberdare,  Lord  Alfred 
Churchill,  Admiral  Sir  Erasmus  Ommanney,  Colonel  Godwin-Austen, 
Professor  H.  N.  Moseley,  Mr.  Francis  Galton»  and  Mr.  W.  T.  Blanford; 
with  Mr.  H.  W.  Bates  as  Secretary.  The  Council  is  empowered  to  make 
representations,  if  they  see  fit,  to  the  Imperial  and  to  any  of  tlio  Colotml 
Governments,  Public  Institutions,  or  Scientific  Societies,  urging  tb 
desirability  of  despatching  a  scientific  expedition  to  New  Guinda>  aLd 
will  offer  a  grant  of  100/.  towarda  the  scientific  outfit. 

Colonial  Expeditiona  to  New  Guinea.— The  ministry  of  New  SoutJi 
Wales,  ill  response  to  urgent  rcpresentationa  on  the  part  of  the  newly- 
organised  Geographical  Society  of  the  Colony,  has  consented  to  pltcc 
the  amount  of  lOOOZ,  on  the  estimates,  towards  the  expenses  of  • 
scientific  expedition  to  New  Guinea  under  the  auspices  of  the  Society, 
on  condition  that  the  Governments  of  the  other  Colonies — Queen*, 
land,  Victoria,  and  South  Australia — contribute  a  grant  of  similai 
amount.  The  New  South  Wales  Geographical  Society  propose  to  make 
these  grants  the  nucleus  of  a  Bnbscription  fund  to  bo  opened  in  all  the 
Colonies.  The  deputation  to  the  Minister  explained  that  the  Society 
had  in  view  an  exploration  on  a  basis  similar  to  that  adopted  by  the 
Eoyal  Geographical  Society  of  London  in  their  expeditions  to  Central 
Africa,  and  that  when  the  subsciiption  fund  was  fairly  started  they 
intended  to  communicate  with  the  London  Society  and  with  the 
Imperial  Government. — Meantime  an  expedition  despatched  in  August 
last  by  tho  proprietors  of  tho  Melbourne  Artjua,  api»ear8  to  have  hail 
little  snccese.  At  least  we  learn  by  a  telegram  in  the  daily  papers  from 
Cooktown,  Queonsland,  dated  October  17th,  that  tho  party  had  returned 
to  that  place,  some  of  its  members  having  been  attacked  by  fever,  to 
which  one  of  them,  Professor  Bont^jn,  had  Buccumbod, — We  hear  of  other 
private  expeditions  being  in  preparation. 

Mr.  H.  0.  Forbed,  tho  naturalist  traveller  in  tho  Eastern  Arcliii>elago,* 
has  just  returned  to  England  after  five  years'  wanderings.  Leaving 
London  in  October  1878,  ho  first  visited  tho  Keeling  Atoll  in  the  South 
Indian  Ocean,  where  he  made  a  series  of  observations  on  tho  amount  of 
change  observable  in  the  reef  since  it  was  visited  by  Darwin  in  the 
Beagle  in  1836,  an  account  of  which  he  published  in  our  *  Proceedings' 

*  8ee  mU,  p.  408. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


657 


fcfor  December  1879.  Oa  retumiBg  from  the  Keelings  he  proceeded  to 
the  western  and  southern  diatricta  of  Java,  where,  besides  making 
extensive  zoological  and  botanical  collections,  he  instituted  a  series  of 
obeervations  and  experiments  on  the  fertilisation  of  orchids,  the  unex- 
pected results  of  which  ^vill  shortly  be  published,  as  woll  as  on  tlie 
curious  honeycombed  and  ant-infested  Mi/nnecodia  and  Hydnophylnm^ 
through  which  he  arrived  at  almost  the  same  concluBions  aa  Dr.  Treub, 
the  Director  of  the  Bot^inie  Gardens,  Buitenzorg,  who  has,  in  a  recent 
number  of  the  *  Annales  *  of  that  garden,  given  us  a  complete  account  of 
their  development.     Leaving  Java  in  1880,  Mr.  Forbes  proceeded  to 

[^Sumatra,  where,  entering  at  Telok-botong  on  the  Sunda  Strait,  he  tra- 
versed the  greater  part  of  the  country  to  the  south  of  the  Djambi 
Sultanate,  into  which,  however,  he  could  not  penetrate  owdng  to  the 
hostility  of  the  natives,  a  circumstance  which  necessitated  his  return  to 
the  east  coast  by  way  of  the  Mocsi  River.  This  journey  occupied  about 
eighteen  months,  during  which  the  higher  j*eak9  of  the  Barisan  range 
were  ascended,  hypsometrieal  observations  taken,  and  very  extensive 
botanical  collections  made,  especially  of  the  forest  trees,  of  which  speci- 
mens are  rarely  obtained  by  collectors.  Among  the  most  interesting 
regions  visited  were  the  Blalauvv  plateau,  an  elevated  district  near  the 
Besagi  volcano,  where  several  rare  birds  were  obtaine^i,  and  the 
Passoemah  lands  round  the  high  volcano  of  the  Dompo,  inhabiteil  by  a 
pagan  race,  whose  customs  were  found  to  be  widely  different  from  those 
of  the  surrounding  peoples,  and  where  Mr.  Forbes  discovered  two  large 
sculptured  figures,  hideously  visaged,  closely  resembling  two  already 
known,  but  quite  different  from  the  broken  blocks,  nearly  all  of  them 
quite  defaced,  which  are  found  at  different  places  in  the  Palembang 
Besidency,  and  about  none  of  which  does  there  exist  any  tradition 
among  the  people.  Ho  visited  also  the  Upper  Moesi  region  inhabited  by 
the  forest-living  Koeboes  supposoil  to  be  the  remnants  of  the  indigenes 
of  the  island,  and  of  whom  he  brought  back  two  crania  and  one  skeleton 
which  show  divergences  from  that  of  the  true  Malay  race.  Leaving 
Sumatra  in  1882,  Mr.  Forbes  proceeded,  along  with  his  wife,  the  first 
white  lady  to  visit  these  hostile  shores,  to  the  till  then  unexplored  island 
of  TimoT-laut  (touching  on  the  way  at  Amboina,  Now  Gruiuea,  the  Aru 
and  the  Ke  islands,  making  small  collections  in  each),  where,  assisted  by 
a  grant  through  the  liberality  of  the  British  Association,  he  made  zoolo- 
gical and  ethnographical  collections  rich  in  novelties  which  have  been 
described  recently  by  Mr.  P.  L.  Scluter  and  others  in  the  Proceedings  of 
the  Zoological  Society,  and  by  Mr.  Furbes  himself  in  a  paper  before  the 
Anthropological  Institute  during  the  present  year.  On  his  return  to 
Amboina  from  the  Tonimber  group  he  paid  a  visit  to  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  large  island  of  Timor,  which,  by  exceptional  privileges  granted  by 
the  Portuguese  Governor,  he  was  able  to  traverse.  Mr.  Forbes  speaks  in 
the  very  highest  terms  of  the  generous  and  abundant  aid  given  him  by 


658 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


the  Dntch  Government,  and  of  the  kindness  and  courtesy  of  the  ofGcuU^I 
among  whom  he  specially  mentions  Dr.  M.  Troub,  the  Director  of  the] 
Botanic  Gardens.    He  hopes  to  start  again  in  the  early  part  of  noxt 
year  to  resumo  his  investigations  in  Timor-laut,  and  thence  to  prepare 
for  the  exploration  of  the  interior  of  New  Guinea. 

^  Dr.  Fischer. — Further  details  regarding  Dr.  Fischer's   expedtttaBJ 
into  the  Masai  country  have  been  published  by  the   Hamburg  Geo- 1 
graphical  Society,  under  whoso  auspices  the  traveller  has  carried  out  I 
his  undertaking.     The  plan  of  the  expedition  was  to  start  from  Fangani] 
and  ti-avel  through  the  region  hitherto  untrodden  by  Europeans  weetof^ 
Kilimanjaro,  towards  Lake  Bahringo.     He  had  reached  a  point  only  sU 
days*  march  from  this  semi-mythical  inland  sea,  when  his  porters  refosod 
to  go  further.     A  force  of  3000  Masai  warric»r8  blocked  the  way.     These 
turbulent  warriors  were  without  a  common  loader,  for  all  the  chiefs  who 
possessed  any  influence  over  them,  or  could  have  held  them  back  from 
deeds  of  violence,  were  absent.     To  have  negociated  a  right  of  vmA 
through  this  disorderly  band  would  have  c^st  Dr.  Fischer  nearly  the  i 
whole  of  bis  remaining  stock  of  goods,  and  to  outflank  them  by  a  forced  j 
march  through  the  primitive  forest,  his  porters  decidedly  refused  to 
attempt.     He  had,  consequently,  to  retrace  his  steps,  i-eaching  Zanzibar  ' 
in  safety  with  his  largo  scientific  collections  on  the  28th  of  AugnsL 
Startiiig  in  Deceo|ber  1882  from  Pangani,  his  route  was  in  a  northerly 
direction  through  Pare,  Aniaha  and  Sigirari ;  on  his  return  journey  he 
took  a  more  westerly  direction  round  Lake  Naivash  and  the  Natron  Lake 
to  the  volcano  Doenyo  Ngai,   and  thence  through  Ngaruka  to  Mount 
Meru.    Near  Lake  Naivash  ho  discovered  a  largo  hot  spring ;  he  met 
with  no  active  volcano,  though  the  whole  district  is  of  volcanic  natnzck 
Dr.  Fischer  is  bringing  homo  a  remarkably  rich  ethnological  collection, 
iDeeides    an    ornithological    collection    of  2G0  species  represented  by 
400  specimens,  a  large  proportion  of  which  are  new  to  science,  a&d 
numerous  dried  plants,  minerals,  and  specimens  of  the  larger  TnAmmAJig 
and  smaller  animals  in  spirits.     Of  the  120  native  porters  ho  took  witi 
him,  18  deserted,  not  an  unusually  large  proportion.     Fatal  encounteni    1 
like  that  in  which  Dr.  Fischer's  caravan  was  involved  at  Sigirari  ou 
the  outward  journey,  causing  the  retreat  of  Thomson's  expedition,  aie 
of  common  occurrence  in'  the  Masai  country,  and  cause  no  hindrance  to 
other  caravans  following  after.    Fischer's  porters,  who  killed  several  of 
the  Masai,  were  driven  to  it  in  self-defence,  and  after  the  usual  blood- 
money  bad   been   agreed  on  and  paid,   the   opposing   parties  became 
friends  again.     Dr.  Fischer  is  expected  soon  in  Hamburg,  and  hh  ex- 
pedition being  the  fijst  sent  out  by  the  Hamburg  Geographical  Sociek, 
an  enthusiastio  reception  awaits  him.  i 

Discoveries  along  the  Watershed  of  Lsikes  Nyassa  and  Bangweolo 
and  the  Biyer  Zambesi. — Mr.  Jamos  Stevenson  has  communicated  to 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


<69 


us  the  purport  of  a  recent  letter  from  Mr.  James  Stewart,  C.E.,  which 
gives  an  account  of  important  geographical  diecoverios  he  has  made  in 
the  upland  region  between  Lakes  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika.  On  an 
excursion  from  his  roadnBtation  of  Maliwanda,*  westward  to  Mount 
Mapurumnka,  he  passed  in  two  days*  march  the  affluents  of  the  Songwe, 
flowing  to  Lake  Nyassa,  the  Loangwa  flowing  to  the  Zambesi,  and  the 
Chambezi  flowing  to  Lake  Bangweolo.  The  source-streams  of  the  Cham- 
bezi  were  found  to  bo  at  a  height  of  934  feet  above  Bangweolo,  and  whore 

^they  unite  foi-m  a  considerable  river,  unfortunately  not  navigable  thence 
to  the  lake.  But  as  further  along  the  road  to  Tanganyika  streams  are 
marked  as  flowing  to  the  Chambezi  on  a  level  only  500  and  600  feet 
above  Bangweolo,  he  inferred  that  the  river  would  bo  found  navigable 
from  a  distance  of  100  miles  across  the  plateau,  the  descent  from  the 
mountains  being  more  rapid  in  the  firat  part. 

A  British  Consulate  on  Lake  Nyassa. — Captain  C  E.  Foot,  b.n.,  has 

been  appointed  British  Consul  for  the  Lake  District  of  South  Central 

Africa,   and  left  England  to  enter  on    the  duties  of  his  post  on  the 

,  30th  ult.     He  is  accredited,  as  Livingstone  formerly  was,  to  the  native 

liefs  of  the  region,  and  will  endeavour  to  enter  into  friendly  negotia- 

^tions  with  them  with  a  view  to  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade  and 

^the  promotion  of  civilisation  and  commerce.     Captain  Foot's  mission  is 

Bom©  extent  a  roving  one,  and  his  well-known  intereat  in  African 

reiploration  justifies  us  in  anticipating  valuable  additions  to  our  geo- 

[•graphical  knowledge  from  his  appointment. 

M.  Flegel's  Projected  Expedition  from  the  Congo  to  the  Niger. — 

[Admiral  von  iSchleimtz,  the  President  of  the  Grerman  African  Society, 

[has  received  a  letter  from  M.  Flegel,  dated  from  Abudja,  near  Onicha 

the  Niger,  August  13th,  1883.     The  traveller  gives  the  welcome 

"news  that  the  reports  of  his  ill-health  were  much  exaggoi-ated.    Ho  was 

already  preparing  for  a  new  trip  into  the  interior,  when  ho  received  the 

letter  announcing   the  handsome  grant  (40,000  marks)  offered  to  him 

Lby  the  German  African  Society  to  enable  him  to  carry  out  his  important 

Ronrney  from  the  Niger  to  the  Congo  vi4  Adamawa.     He  has  lost  no 

time  in   completing  his  equipment,   and  was    preparing  to  start  for 

Adamawa  immediately. 

Lieutenant  Wissman,  the  companion  of  Dr.  Pogge  in  his  successful 
journey  from  the  "West  Coaat  to  Nyangwo  in  1881-2,  a  journey  which  he 
afterwards  continued  alone  across  the  continent  to  Zanzibar,  has  been 
engaged  by  the  International  African  Association  to  command  a  new 
expedition  in  the  basin  of  the  Congo.  The  means  placed  at  his  dispoBal 
will  i>ermit  him  to  organise  the  expedition  on  a  grand  scale. 

Exploration  of  Ovampo-Lafld.— Dr.  C.   Hopfner,  a  young  German 
geologist,  who  started  in  July  1882  from  Mossamedes  to  explore  the 
•  Vide  map, '  Prooeedingi  B,  G.  S.'  1880,  p.  46t. 


660 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 


mineral  capabilities  of  Ovampo-land  and  Damara-land,  has  returned  to 
Germany  well  Batiefied  with  the  results  of  his  reconnaissance.  He  gayea 
short  account  of  his  trayels  to  the  Berlin  Geographical  Sot-uety  at  their 
last  meeting  (October  6th,  1883),  confining  himself  to  his  personal  advtti- 
turcB.  His  route  was  from  Mossamcdcs  to  Humpata  (the  new  nettle^ 
ment  osttiblished  in  Portuguese  territory  by  the  migrating  Boers),  and 
thence,  crossing  the  Cunene,  through  the  districts  of  the  Ovampo  to  the 
country  of  tho  Damaras,  whose  fiist  village  he  reached  in  January  18^o, 
finally  reaching  the  coast  at  Walfisch  Bay.  Dr.  Hiipfner  is  anx-iotjg  to 
be  back  as  soon  as  possible  to  the  field  of  his  explorations,  in  order  to 
continue  and  complete  his  work,  which  he  was  obliged  to  suspend  for 
want  of  means. 

The  *  Bijmphna '  Expedition. — ^^Herr  An  gust  in  Gamel  of  Copenhagoit 
has  received  t^jlegrams  from  Lieutenant  Hovgaard,  dated  the  11th  of 
October^  saying  that  the  Dljmyhia  arrived  on  that  day  at  VardO.    She 
got  out  of  the  ice  on  the  2nd  of  August,  and  on  the  same  day  the  scrow- 
shaft  broke,  and  the  ship  was  again  beset.     She  was  finally  released  on 
the  13th  of  September  ;  hut  the  cylinder-rod,  which  had  been  fixed  as  a 
temporary  screw  aha ft»  broke  down  after  two  hours'  use,  though  the 
screw  was  left  hanging.     Beiug  thtis  disabled,  Lieutenant  Hovgaaz\i 
confined  his  efforts  to  saving   the  ship.     Fortunately  the  ice  opened 
towards  the  south-west,  and  by  dint  of  sailing,  warping,  and  towing, 
the  north-cast  point  of  Waigatz  Island  was  reached,  though  with  great 
difficulty.     The  ice  was  here  very  close,  and  the  ship  was  driven  with  it 
through  the  Kam  Strait  by  a  gale  on  the  Slat,     She  got  clear  of  the  ice 
on  the  25th,  in  lat.  71^  17'  N.,  long.  55°  52'  E.,  and  then  enoounterecl 
gales,  alternating  with  calms,  until  the  6th  of  October.     LieutenoLl 
Hovgaard  states  that  while  drifting  during  the  winter  he  had  an  excel- 
lent opportunity  to  study  the  ico  movements  in  the  Kara  Sea,  which  aro 
far  from  being  so  bad  as  they  seem.     He  was  collecting  information  in 
rinmarken    from  the  walruB-hunters   which   might  possibly  cJear  up 
many  doubtful  points.     He  has  obtained  a  complete  series  of  obsena- 
tions — meteorological,  hydrographic,  and  aurora — as  well  as  obsorvatiocs 
on  the  formation  and  nature  of  the  ico.     The  collections  contain  orer 
500  different  species  of  marine  fauna,  and  250  botanical  species.    Ho 
also  brings  all  the  instruments  and  collections  of  the  Dutch  expedition. 
Ho  adda  that,  if  he  may  have  the  ship  again,   he  will  make  another 
attempt,  and  if  nothing  unforeseen  occurs,  as  it  did  this  year,  there  iis  mi 
reason  to  fear  that  the  expedition  will  be  unsuccesafuL     He  hoped  to  bo 
able  to  repair  damages  and  leave  Yardo  by  the  20th  of  Octol)er,  and 
a  full  report  of  his  voyage  would  reach  Copenhagen  about  the  8th  of  . 
November.     All  well  on  board. 

The  Sixth  Voyage  of  the  Will  em  Bareats.— The  sixth  royage  of  the 

Wilkm  Barents,  though  unsaccesslul  as  regards  its  main   object,  wliicli  w»»  to 
obtain  news  of  the  Dijmiihna  and  FUma,  has  at  least  furnished  a  very  accuntu 


GEOGIAPHICAL  NOTES. 


eei 


I  of  the  state  of  the  ice  during  the  past  season  in  the  vicinity  of  the  straits 
leading  to  tbe  Kara  Sea.  The  WiUem  Barents  left  Vardo  for  Gooseland  and  the 
WaigatJS,  after  a  very  good  passage  to  the  north  of  Norway,  on  the  31st  of  lost  May, 
and  having  reconnoitred  the  edge  of  the  ice,  proceeded  to  Archangel  to  see  if  any  news 
Jud  been  received  from  the  const  of  Yalmal,  wlicro  it  was  possible  that  retreating 
|ktrties  might  have  landed.  As  nothing  had  been  heard  of  the  missing  ships  or  their 
crews  at  Archnngel,  she  sailed  again  for  the  Kara  Sea  on  the  24th  of  June,  after 
exchanging  telegrams  with  the  Dutch  Arctic  Committee,  to  search  the  east  coast  of 
Waigatx  and  Novaya  Zemlya  for  boats  or  men.  Kotguiev  Island  was  reached  for  the 
second  time  on  the  4th  of  July,  but  owing  to  bad  weather  and  calms  little  progress 
was  made  till  the  9th,  when  the  Willcm  Barents  was  about  fifty  miles  south  of 
Kostin  Shar,  with  no  ice  in  sight.  While  she  was  working  to  the  eastward  a  steamer 
hove  in  sight  which  proved  to  be  the  Nordenskiold,  commanded  by  Captain 
Johannesen,  w^hich  had  lost  sight  of  her  companions*  in  a  fog.  For  the  next  day  or 
two  the  Willem  Barents  was  hampered  by  loose  sailing  ice,  and  on  the  loth  of  July 
again  sighted  the  Nordcnskiold^  which  soon  after  came  alongside  and  was  boarded  by 
some  of  the  Dutch  officers.  During  the  night  they  were  joiued  by  the  Norwegian 
schooner  Uaabtt  which  was  chartered  by  Mr,  SibiriakofTto  take  building  materials  to 
Jngor  Strait,  and  also  by  the  small  steamer  Obi.  Captain  Johannesen  said  that  he  had 
been  as  far  as  Waigatz,  and  hail  met  a  walrus  sloop  whose  people  had  told  him  that 
both  Jngor  Strait  and  the  Kara  Gate  were  completely  blocked  by  ice.  lie  intended  to 
take  the  Baabet  in  tow  and  leave  her  in  some  harbour  on  the  coast  of  Novaya 
Zemlya,  until  he  could  take  her  into  Jugor  Strait,  when  he  would  proceed  with  the 
Obi  to  Yenisei.  He  said  that  a  south  or  south-west  wind  would  clear  the  ice  away 
in  six  or  eight  days  and  free  the  straits,  but  with  northerly  winds  nothing  coiUd  bo 
done.  Lieutenant  Dalen,  the  commander  of  the  Willem  Barents,  therefore  decided 
to  run  up  to  Kostin  Shar,  water  ship,  and  then  return  to  the  soutliem  straitjs.  At  this 
time  the  whole  of  the  Petchora  Sea  was  more  or  less  full  of  loose  ice,  except  down  by 
the  Russian  coast.  During  tbe  night  of  the  15th  July  all  three  of  M.  SibiriakofiTs 
ships  went  away  to  the  north  in  company,  leaving  the  Willem  Barents  anchored  to 
an  ice  floe,  and  she  did  not  again  fall  in  witli  them.  The  WiUem  Barents  got  out  of 
the  ice  on  the  20th  of  July,  and  on  the  following  day,  after  a  fine  run,  sighted 
Meshdusharski  Island,  which  forms  the  Kostin  Shar.  On  the  21st  a  steamer  was 
seen  going  eastward,  which  was  snp|)08ed  to  be  the  Louise,]  but  she  was  too  far  off 
to  be  communicated  with.  There  was  an  awkward  swell  off  the  south  entrance  to 
Kostin  Shar,  and  as  the  weather  was  thick,  and  a  good  deal  of  ice  comedown  through 
the  strait,  the  WiUem  Barents  got  an  unj>leasant  bumping,  so  Lieutenant  Dalen 
decided  to  go  to  Karmakuli  for  water.  Tlie  wind  however  was  dead  foul,  and  after  a 
hard  beat  to  windward  the  Wineni  Barctds  anchored  in  a  long  narrow  bay  on  the 
north-west  side  of  Meshdusharski  Island,  where  water  could  be  obtained  by  catching 
the  drippings  from  the  snow-foot  tliat  still  clung  to  the  shore.  There  were  only  a  few 
small  floes  about,  and  these  soon  drifted  away.  The  land  was  exceedingly  bleak  and 
desolate,  and  seeTnc»d  to  be  composed  of  mud  and  small  stones.  There  were  many 
higoons,  and  many  fresh-water  lakes  inland,  but  no  streams  from  which  to  fill  the 
ships*  tanks,  and  as  catching  the  drippings  from  the  snow-foot  was  a  tedious  process, 
the  WUlcm  Barents  did  not  leave  her  anchorage  until  the  28th  of  July,  Several 
reindeer  were  seen  at  this  place,  and  the  sportsmt-n  of  the  jiarty  bagged  im  owl  and 
three  white  swans  besides  fifty  or  sixty  looms.  There  were  geese  and  eider  about, 
but  the  few  eggs  found  were  bad.  After  leiiving  the  bay  a  south-easterly  course  was 
ired,  and  Waigatz  Island  was  sighted  on  the  31st  of  July.    For  the  next  three 


See  antt,  pp.  406,  555.  f  See  ante,  p,  40G. 


662 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES, 


weeks  the  WiU^i  Barents  had  a  continual  fight  with  the  ice,  and  waa  at  kat  I 
driven  off  the  field,    llie  wind  was  north-easterly  the  whole  time,  and  tho  ic«  1 
driving".before  it  through  the  Kara  Gate,  while  largo  masses  were  packed  against  1 
weat  aide  of  the  island,  being  probahly  kept  there  hy  a  current,  as  the  wind  ^rooki ' 
otherwise  have  driven  them  te  the  soulh-wcst.    Sometimes  the  WUlem  Baraiti  was 
in  the  middle  of  the  Kara  Gate,  which  was  found  to  be  an  awkward  pboe  with 
numerous  rocks  and  reefs ;  sometimes  she  was  dowu  by  Jugor  Strait,  and  aometuuei 
tinder  the  coast  of  Novaya  Zemlya.  The  weather  was  generally  dull  and  misty,  but  tfce 
water  was  fortunately  smooth.  On  the  4th  of  August  the  walrus  sloop  Kongiixrg  w 
Keen  off  Waigatz  Island,  and  her  commander,  Captain  Limika,  said  he  had  been  t»ro 
months  from  Ilammerfest,  and  had  sailed  through  loose  ice  into  the  Kara  Sea,  whee 
he  had  found  the  pack  fa^t  and  heavy,  forming  a  hay  extending  from  the  80iitb> 
east  part  of  Novaya  Zemlya  round  to  the  east  cosst  of  Waigatz  Island.     He  had 
been  diivea  hy  the  ice  iuto  shallow  water  in  the  Kara  Gate,  and  very  tumin 
crashed,  but  the  floe  passed  under   the  ship    and   he  finally  got   free.      Somi 
days  later  the  sloops  Freya  and  Lydiana  were  spoken,  and  they  confirmed  Capteia , 
Limika's  account  of  the   state  of  the  ice  in   the   Kara  Sea.     The  /reya 
vAbo  had  a  bad  nip  in  the  Kara  Gate,  and  both  were  waiting  for  a  southerly  wind  to  ^ 
clear  away  the  ice.     On  the  16th  of  August,  a  north-easterly  gale  drove  the  WiSm 
Barents  out  of  tho  ice  to  the  westward,  but  slie  gallantly  returned  once  more  to  tiie 
charge^  only  to  find  that  the  ice  in  the  straits  was  even  closer  and  heavier  ihsa 
before  the  gale.     It  was  clear,  therefore,  that  no  passage  could  be  effected  that  ir«y, 
at  all  events  by  a  sailing  vessel.    There  was  now  a  great  deal  of  ice  in  the  Fetcbcn 
Sea,  and  the  nights  were  beginniDg  to  get  dark,  so  that  it  was  not  easy  to  keep  deir 
of  it ;  and  as  a  change  of  wind  to  the  westward  would  have  involved  the  risk  of  being 
beset,  it  was  decided  to  give  up  the  southern  straits  and  try  Matoschkin  Shw, 
Wlien  proceeding  to  the  westward,  it  was  found  that  the  ice  had  driven  down  very 
fast  during  the  last  few  days,  and  it  was  necessary  to  go  a  long  way  south  to  grt 
round  it.     The  WiUem  Barents  left  the  neighbourhood  of  Waigata  on  the  21*t  o( 
August,  and  entered  Matoschkin  Shar  on  the  26:h.     She  lost  the  wind  off  Eira  Bay, 
where  the  boats  of  the  Eira  landed  last  year,  and  had  to  anchor,  but  soon  afterwvdi 
proceeded  to  Altglaubigen  Bay,  where  a  j-arty  landed.    There  were  two  fiuaeiao 
boats  here  with  oars  in  them,  and  a  heap  of  firewood  alongside,  but  there  mi 
nothing  to  indicate  to   whom   they  belonged,   or  why  they  had  been  IcfL    Ai 
Tscherikina  three  fine  reindeer  were  shot,  and  as  all  were  in  splendid  condition  ihej  | 
furaishe^l  a  welcome  supply  of  fresh  meat.    On  the  28th  of  August,  tlie  WiUm  ' 
Barents  proceeded  up  the  strait,  passing  a  good  deal  of  loose  ice,  and  anchored  under 
a  high  hiU  a  little  to  the  westward  of  Gubin  Bay,  on  the  south  shore.     Mr.  Gnnt 
climbed  up  a  hill  to  see  how  the  ice  lay  to  the  eastward,  and  reported  that  ihm 
seemed  to  be  a  good  deal  of  pack  ice  in  the  Kara  Sea,  but  he  thought  he  could « 
water  beyond  with  streams  in  it.  The  weather  was  bright  and  bcautifuL   Dnnog  tLo 
night,  young  ice  formed  in  the  bay,  but  the  next  day  was  bright  and  hot,  withi 
blue  sky  and  no  wind,  so  a  boat  was  sent  eastward  to  reconnoitre,     'llie  ponj 
landed  on  Cross  Caj^e  and  climbed  a  hill  some  1000  feet  high,  whence  they  hd  % 
pooti  view  of  the  Kara  Sea.    Tliere  seemed  to  be  pack  ice  everywhere,  far  out  ton, 
with  here  and  there  a  pool  of  water ;  but  in  the  for  distance  there  appeared  to  he 
some  water  with  streams  of  ice  beyond  it.     The  horizon  was,  however,  a  little  huf, 
and  it  was  not  possible  to  fonn  a  decided  opinion.    After  leaving  a  record  in  i 
cairn,  the  exjtlorers  went  on  to  Wood  Cape  where  they  foimd  the  hut  in  which 
Lieutenant  Roamyssloff  wintered  in  1768-t>,  and  here  they  built  a  large  cairn  and 
left  a  record  stating  that  if  the  ice  permitted  they  intended  to  remam  in  this  pAiiof 
the  strait  for  a  day  or  two,  and  would  leave  a  full  account  of  their  movementi  st 


OBITUAKY. 


663 


the  watering  place.  This  was  done  in  view  of  Iho  possibility  of  boats  from  tUo 
Varna  or  Dijmphna  passing  that  w-ay.  After  that  they  roturoed  to  the  ship, 
pMsing  through  a  good  deal  of  young  ice,  which  was  so  tongh  in  places  that^tlie 
men  had  some  trouble  in  digging  their  oars  into  it.  A  north-easterly  wind 
fsptang  up  soon  after  their  return,  which  rendered  the  anchorage  unsafe,  so  the 
anchor  was  weighed,  and  the  ship  crackled  through  the  young  ice  to  the  weat- 
wftrd  before  a  fresh  breeze,  anchoring  oflf  the  Sumilicha  river  on  the  30th  of 
August.  The  weather  now  changed  for  the  worse,  and  on  September  3rd  there 
was  snow  on  the  hills.  The  next  day  a  large  cairn  was  built,  and  a  depflt 
of  provisions  was  buried  near  it.  Records  were  also  left,  and  having  thus  left 
no  stone  unturned  to  fulfil  the  main  object  of  the  vojTige,  the  WUlrm  Barents  sailed 
out  of  the  strait  on  the  5th  of  September  and  shaped  course  for  Hammerfest.  Her 
difficulties  were  not  yet  over,  however,  for  the  wind  sliifted  to  the  south-west  almost 
as  soon  as  she  left  Matoschkia  Sliar,  and  though  this  was  exactly  what  tlio  gallant 
explorers  had  been  wishing  for  for  six  weeks,  it  was  now  too  late  to  be  of  use,  and 

tonly  added  to  their  disappointment.  At  5  p.m.  on  the  14th  of  September,  when 
passing  Ingo  lighthouse  on  the  north  coast  of  Norway,  the  jibboom  was  carried  away 
in  a  heavy  squall,  and  being  thus  deprived  of  her  head  sails  the  ship  wm  in  greab 
danger  of  being  driven  ashore.  The'  wind  blew  in  furious  squalls,  churning  np  the 
sorfacc  of  the  water  like  smoke  ;  it  was  f:\8t  growing  dark,  and  it  was  impossible  to 
fetch  the  anchorage  in  Havo  Sund,  Fortunately,  however,  there  was  another  about 
six  miles  distant  in  Oestvaag,  a  small  bay  on  the  south-east  side  of  Maasoj  and  this 
with  great  difficulty  was  reached  at  8  p.m.  She  was  detained  at  Oestvaag  for  three 
days  by  galea  and  calm?,  and  then  proceedetl  to  Hammerfest,  arriving  safely  at 
Amsterdam,  after  a  good  passage,  on  the  6th  of  October. 


I 


®&ttuar|). 


Mr.  Egerton  Vernon  Haxconitt  whose  death  took  place  on  the  19th  of 
October,  had  been  a  Fellow  of  this  Society  for  forty-three  years.  He  was  the 
youngest  son  of  the  Archbishop  of  York,  and  brother  of  the  Rev.  William  Vernon 
Harcourt,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  British  Association.  His  mother  was  Lady 
Anne  Leveson  Guwer,  sister  of  the  first  Duke  of  Sutherland.  Bora  in  1803,  he  dis- 
tinguished himself  at  Westminster,  where  he  was  Captain  of  the  School,  and  be 
obtained  first-claas  honours,  both  classical  and  mathematical,  at  Oxford,  in  1824. 

I  He  was  called  to  the  Bar  at  the  Inner  Temple  in  1830,  and  was  for  many  j-ears 
Begistnjr  of  the  diocese  of  York.  Mr.  Egerton  Harcourt  became  a  Fellow  of  this 
Society  in  1840,  and  he  served  on  the  Council  of  the  Hakluyt  Society  for  several 
years.  He  was  also  a  Member  of  the  Committee  of  the  Geographical  Section  of  the 
British  Association  on  several  occasions,  the  last  being  at  Sheffield  in  1879,  and 
York  in  1880. 

For  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  century  Mr.  Egerton  Harcourt  has  resided  at  Whitwell 
Hall,  near  York,  where  his  life  was  one  of  active  usefulness  and  benevolence.  His 
work  as  Chairman  of  the  Castle  Howard  Reformatory  and  as  a  promoter  of  other 
naeful  institutions  was  untiring  up  to  the  last  year  of  his  life,  and  his  place  will  not 
easily  bo  filled.  His  mimificcnt  donations  to  the  diocese  of  York  are  necessarily  well 
known;  but  his  acts  of  kmdness  and  thoughtful  benevolence  were  habitually  as 
unostentatious  as  they  were  frequent.  He  was  married  to  Laura,  youngest 
daughter  of  Sir  William  Mordaunt  Milner,  Bart.,  of  Nunappleton,  in  Yorkshire,  who 
survives  him ' 


C    664    ) 


CORRESPONDENCE. 

The  Upper  Salwen,  or  Lu-tze-Jciang  River, 

October  Uth,  IfiST 
Sib, — ^I  observe  that  Colonel  Prejevalsky  in  his  last  work  (aee  the  Gernia 
translation  of  a  portion  thereof  in  PeUrmaun's  *  Mittheilungen,'  Parts  is.  and  x) 
ha£  decided  on  definitely  adopting  the  theory  that  the  Nak-chu-ka  river  of  Tibet  i$ 
the  upper  course  of  the  Salwen.  The  idea  occurred  to  me  several  years  ago  on  firs! 
reading  the  Pundit  Nain  Singh's  narrative  of  his  journey  across  Great  Tihct  from 
Noh  to  Lhasa,  but  the  gapa  in  the  chain  of  information  then  available  were  too  gnat 
to  enable  me  to  arrive  at  any  very  coufident  conclusion  on  the  subject.  The  chief 
difficulty  seemed  to  me  in  reconciling  the  enormous  drainage  said  by  the  Pujidit 
to  he  absorbed  by  the  Nak-chu-ka  river  in  flood  season,  with  the  compantireiy 
modest  dimensions  of  the  Salwen.  For  a  better  comprehonaion  of  this  pobt  it  ti 
necessary  to  refer  to  the  Pundit's  map,  and  I  am  almost  afraid  that  it  is  not  readily 
accessible  in  this  country.  The  extremely  interesting  report  with  its  accompanying 
maps  was,  1  believe,  suppressed  by  Lord  Lytton's  order  in  1877,  and  the  soliUty 
copy  which  found  its  way  to  the  library  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  hu,  I 
obecrve,  no  maps.  However,  from  the  smaller  edition  published  in  the  Jotirail  of 
tlje  Royal  Geographical  Society  for  1877,  it  will  be  seen  that  though  no  predn 
idea  of  the  area  of  the  catchment-basin  of  the  Nak-chu-ka  can  be  derived  tbenfins, 
yet  at  least  fourteen  lakes  of  different  Kizes,  varying  up  to  one  of  about  one  htmdrw! 
miles  in  length,  drain  into  this  river,  and  that  its  farthest  source  appears  to  lie  a« 
far  west  as  83°  30'  E,  of  Greenwich,  or  something  like  500  miles  from  the  poi&t 
where  the  Peking  road  crosses  it.  Several  of  its  tributaries  crossed  by  the  Pundit 
are  described  by  him  as  "considerable,  one  hundred  paces  in  width,  &c.";  kA 
when  we  remember  that  his  journey  was  in  the  autumn  and  winter,  it  will  ho 
realijjed  how  large  the  bulk  of  the  combined  streams  must  be  in  spring  or  ewly 
summer. 

The  question  of  the  future  course  of  this  large  river  seemed  to  be  so  important, 
that  I  ventured  to  call  the  attention  of  the  late  Major  W.  Gill  to  the  {vint.aiid 
asked  him  as  to  the  respective  dimensions  of  the  Mekong  and  Salwen,  auJ  also 
whether  he  could  throw  any  further  light  on  the  matter. 

I  need  no  apology  for  reproducing  the  reply  of  so  distinguished  an  explorer. 

1,  Emnbtjugh  Mansions,  Viotobia  Stbsii, 
21si  October* 

Dear  Sib, — I  crossed  the  Lan-Ta'ang  or  Mekong  river  on  the  10th  October,  1877. 
The  bridge  is  at  an  altitude  of  4000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  50  yards  long. 

The  river  seemed  to  me  to  be  full,  it  was  as  wide  as  the  bridge  was  loDg;  it  w» 
flowing  swiftly — a  rolling  stream  without  broken  water;  it  had  the  appearance  oi 
considerable  depth;  it  was  muddy,  and  ran  between  deaj)erately  steep  hillfiidia, 
giving  me  the  idea  of  a  big  river  choked  up  by  the  narrowness  of  the  gorge. 

I  crossed  the  Lu,  or  Lu-t«e,  or  SaUven  river  on  the  15th  October,  1877.  The 
bridge  is  at  an  altitude  of  2500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  is  in  two  spans,  the  euttm 


1878. 


CORRESPONDENCE.  665 

73,  and  the  western  52  yards  long.  There  was  no  water  under  the  western  span ; 
the  eastern  was  tolerably  full,  the  water  was  broken,  and  therefore  could  not  have 
been  very  deep ;  it  did  not  give  me  the  impression  of  carrying  as  much  water  as  the 
Lan-Ts'ang,  but  it  clearly  was  not  full  at  the  time  of  my  visit. 

To  turn  to  the  Pundit's  paper.  A  route  going  nearly  due  east  from  Nak-chu-ka 
must  cross  the  Chin-Sha-Chiang,*  and  may  cross  the  Lu-Chiangand  the  Lan-Ts'ang- 
Chiang. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  great  river  Di-Chu,  of  which  the  Pundit  speaks, 
is  the  great  river  of  China,  the  Chin-Sha.  I  have  crossed  the  whole  drainage  lower 
down,  and  there  is  nothing  else  that  could  be  indicated. 

Thus  fJEu:  we  get  with  certainty,  and  now  we  have  two  other  streams  on  the  west 
of  the  Di-Chu. 

The  Pundit  says  that  the  Sha-Chu  and  the  Nak-chu-ka  both  flow  to  Chiamdo. 
If  this  is  true  they  are  both  branches  of  the  Lan-Ts'ang  (otherwise  called  the 
Mekong)  river  ;  for  we  know  certainly  that  Chiamdo  is  on  the  Lau-Ts  ang. 

If,  however,  this  is  true  we  cut  oflF  the  Lu-Chiang  (or  Salwen)  and  give  it  a 
very  small  area  whence  to  draw  its  supplies.  We  cut  it  off  at  about  the  latitude 
of  Chiamdo,  at  which  point  we  have  already  given  to  the  Lan-Ts'ang  two  big 
rivers. 

Further,  Chiamdo  must  lie  at  an  altitude  of  at  least  10,000  feet ;  if  the  Nak-chu- 
ka  flows  to  it,  it  must  be  a  very  gentle  stream,  and  one  would  think  that  a  road 
would  be  found  by  it,  in  preference  to  the  awful  tracks  described  by  Hue.  I  am 
therefore  of  opinion  that  the  Xak-chu-ka  is  the  Lu-Chiang  and  that  the  informant  of 
the  Pundit  was  wrong  when  he  said  it  went  to  Chiamdo. 

Further,  we  have  two  big  rivers,  and  two  big  rivers  only,  the  Lan-Ts'ang  and  the 
Lu-Chiang  ;  it  is  quite  certain  that  there  are  no  other  big  rivers.  It  seems  probable 
that  they  both  rise  north  of  the  latitude  of  Nak-chu-ka. 

Does  it  not  therefore  seem  rational  to  assume  that  the  two  rivers  crossed  by  the 
route  are  the  two  rivers,  the  Lau-T'sang  and  the  Lu  ? 

Captain  Trotter  has  applied  the  term  Ya-Lung  to  the  Di-Chu  of  the  Pundit,  and 
in  the  uext  sentence  speaks  of  the  Eastern  Jha-Chu  as  the  Yang-TzQ.  I  am  at  a 
loss  to  understand  how  he  can  have  fallen  into  such  an  error. 

The  Ya-Lung-Chiang  is  a  well-known  tributary  of  the  Yang-Tzii  crossed  by  me 
at  IIo-K'ou,  and  runs  into  the  Yang-Tztl  at  Kia-Ting-Fu,  being  a  tributary  on  the 
left  bank  ot  the  Yang-Tzil  and  not  on  the  right  bank  as  placed  by  Captain  Trotter. 

If  this  route  of  the  Pundit's  has  any  existence  then  the  Eastern  Jha-Chu  would  be 
the  Ya-Lung-Chiang,  the  only  river  of  importance  between  Bath'ang  and  Ta- 
Chien-Lu. 

Where  Chering  Chitshum  and  the  Eastern  Ma-chu  of  the  Pundit  may  be  I  can- 
not say,  but  there  is  a  direct  northern  road  from  near  Ta-Chien-Lu  to  Chiamdo,  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  another  still  more  northern  should  not  exist;  Chering 
Chitshum  is  clearly,  according  to  the  Pundit,  on  a  river  of  no  importance,  and  might 
be  either  one  or  another  of  the  streams  that  join  the  Yang-Tzfi,  it  might  even  be  the 
Ta-Chien-Lu  stream  itself— but  the  names  are  puzzling. 

I  have  assumed  that  the  Pundit's  route  does  not  go  into  the  valley  of  the  Iluang- 
Ho  or  Great  Yellow  Eiver  of  China,  because  all  the  rivers  appear  to  flow  from  north 
to  south,  but  this  is  not  too  clear  and  might  be  worth  looking  into. 

It  is  worth  noting  that  Hue  only  mentions  one  river  of  importance  between 

♦  The  Chin-Sha-Chiang  or  golden  sand  river,  known  lower  down  as  the  Yang-Tzfl- 
Chiang  or  ocean  river  and  called  by  the  French  the  Blue  Biver  (why  no  one  can  say). 

Hrw.G.] 

No.  XL— Nov.  1883.]  2  x 


666 


CORRESPONDENCE. 


Lhasa  and  Cliiamdo,   wad  this  would  on  my  theory  be  the  Nak-chu-k*  or  L^ 
Chiang,  or  as  it  is  also  called  Lu-Tze-Chiang,  or  further  down  the  Sal  wen. 

Hue's  map  must  not  even  be  looked  at  for  he  clearly  knew  nothing  of  Lk* 
geography  of  the  country  he  visited. 

Believe  ine  to  bo,  dear  sir, 

Youra  very  truly, 

William  Gill 

Settiog  aside  the  minor  question  of  the  particular  route  ref<<rred  t*>  by  tb« 
Pundit,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  late  Major  Gill  quite  fell  in  with  the  theory  of  tia 
identity  of  the  Nak-chu-ka  and  the  Solweu,  although  the  apparently  inferior  hsdr 
of  water  conveyed  by  the  latter  river  as  compared  with  the  Mekong,  might  bve 
made  liim  hesitate  before  ascribing  ao  extensive  a  catchment-basin  as  the  Nak-clui* 
ka  poesesses,  to  tiic  smaller  stream.  The  explanation  of  this  difference  of  bulk  cay 
luvwew  be  found  in  the  probability  that  the  Salwen  derives  its  npper  watcs 
(according  to  the  theory  we  are  going  upon)  from  a  drier  though  larger  area  tkD 
the  Mekong.  During  the  melting  of  the  snows  one  would  expect  the  coaditioo  of 
things  to  be  reversed. 

ELlaproth's  map  of  Central  Asia  shows  the  connection  between  the  Khflrvnan 
and  the  Lu-kiang,  and  Mr.  T.  Saunders,  in  Ms  map  of  *  The  Himalaya  andTibel' 
to  the  second  edition  of  Mr;  Markham's  '  Tibet ;  Bogle  and  Manning,'  adopted  ihu 
view  in  1879. 

Moreover,  there  is  another  eminent  authority  on  the  same  side.  Baron  F.  von  RicKu 
hofen.  In  the  first  volume  of  his  '  China  '  (see  pages  129  and  2B3,  note)  the  Baha 
states,  apparently  without  any  doubt,  that  the  river,  the  Mongolian  name  of  wluciiis 
Khara-ussu  and  the  Tibetan  Nam-chu  (this  seems  to  be  a  mistake  for  Naic^ij; 
Nara-chu  means  "  sky-water,"  not  "  black  water  "  which  Khara-ossu  and  Nik-cba 
both  mean),  iowa  out  of  a  chain  of  steppe  lakes,  and  is  one  of  the  heaii  stiTU&s 
iQutUfiUsscn)  of  the  Lu-kiang  or  Salwen.  And  this  conclusion  of  the  Baroa'*  ii  t)M 
more  remarkable,  as  he  would  not  seem  to  have  been  then  aware  of  Nain  8iafii'» 
researches,  owing  to  the  above-mentioned  suppression  of  the  rcjiort,  thoogli  it  w» 
printed  some  time  before  the  publication  of  *  China.' 

I  may  mention  ont;  point  which  has  caused  a  little  confusion,  i.  e,  the  ooconwM  ' 
of  the  word  Tsiamdo.  The  Pundit  was  informed  that  the  Nak-chu-ka  river  flcwod 
to  Taiamdo,  a  statement  which  misled  Captain  Trotter  and  apparently  Major  Gill  u 
well,  as  it  was  assumed  that  Taiamdo  on  the  Upper  Lan-Ts'ang-chiang  was  metBt. 
There  are  more  than  *»ne,  if  not  several  Tsiamdos  in  Tibet,  and  I  believe  the  void 
only  signifies  a  coufiuenco  of  two  streams  (=  Coblenss).  It  appears  to  me  qmm 
possible  that  the  Pundit's  informant  may  have  used  the  word  in  its  physicilAoil 
general  sense,  and  not  necessarily  intended  to  denote  a  town. 

There  is,  it  will  bu  seen,  an  enormous  lixcuna  in  our  geographical  knowledge  of  ( 
the  river  if  it  may  be  pennitlet^  to  speak  of  it  as  one  and  the  same.  From  the  p(tfiit  I 
where  the  Pekin  road  crosses  it,  just  to  the  east  of  the  Nak-chu  or  Nap-cha  rill»g^  j 
to  where  Mr.  Margary  and  Major  Gill  crossed  it  on  the  way  to  Bhamo,  there  \»raj\ 
little  known  of  this  great  river,  tliough  the  AbW  Hue  must  have  passed  over  it,  aol 
of  late  years  the  French  missionaries  have  contributed  tjome  slight  information ibtwt  ^ 
its  course  near  the  latitude  of  Batang. 

The  new  and  important  journey  made  by  the  late  Pundit's  former  pnpil,  will  rw  j 
doubt  throw  much  light  on  the  question,  for  he  must  have  crossed  the  river  nwrej 
than  once.    One  could  well  understand  that  rivers  flowing  in  such  straitened  f 
as  seem  to  exist  on  the  south-eastern  confines  of  Tibet,  would  not  impress  a  ( 
spectator  as  being  anything  of  very  great  importance,  but  an  eiperienoed  i 


GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION  OP  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  667 

li^e  the  native  explorer  (whose  identification,  alas !  is  more  hopeless  than  ever,  for 
fifom  a  mere  initial  it  has  now  been  whittled  down  to  nothiog  at  all !),  would  be 
pretty  sure  to  collect  all  possible  data  and  not  to  trust  to  the  mere  appearance  of  a 
river.  1  am  sure  most  geographers  will  join  in  hoping  that  the  results  of  this 
remarkable  journey  may  soon  be  given  to  the  world.  One  indirect  result  would 
doubtless  be  to  throw  light  on  the  course  of  this  river  which  partly  runs  through 
British  territory  and  which,  if  the  above  theory  is  correct,  must  be  over  2000  miles 
in  length. 

I  am,  sir. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

CuARLES  E.  D.  Black. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 
OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 

SOUTHPORT  MEETING,  1883. 

[Gondndedfrcm  p.  025.] 

The  following  papers  were  read  to  the  Section : — 

A  Vint  to  Mr.  Stanley's  Stations  on  the  River  Congo.    By  H.  H. 

JOHKSTOK. — ^Printed  in  extensOy  with  nuip>  in  the  preceding  numljer  of  E.  G.  S. 
Proceedings. 

On  the  Athabasca  District  of  the  Canadian  North-West  Territory.  By 
the  Eey.  ^j^hile  PETiTor.-^This  paper,  with  accompanying  maps,  received  by  the 
Society  from  the  author  (to  whom  the  Back  Grant  was  recently  awarded),  is  printed 
in  full  in  the  present  number.    See  antea^  p.  633. 

On  the  Hot  Springs  of  Iceland  and  New  Zealand,  with  Notes  on  Maori 
Cnitoms.  By  Cuthbert  E.  Peek,  f.b.g.b. — The  author  commenced  by  giving  a 
description  of  the  hot  springs  of  Iceland  and  New  Zealand,  both  of  which  have  been 
recently  visited  by  him.  Several  most  important  differences  were  noticed  in  their 
composition ;  in  the  case  of  the  hot  mud  wells  of  Iceland,  there  is  so  much  copper 
suspended  in  the  mud  that  several  companies  have  been  started  to  work  them  com- 
mercially ;  while  the  mud  springs  of  New  Zealand  are  so  full  of  Infusoria  that  in 
time  of  famine  the  natives  manage  to  sustain  life  on  a  diet  chiefly  consisting  of  mud. 
Some  of  the  New  Zealand  springs  contain  a  very  largo  percentage  of  mineral  (over 
121  grains  per  gallon,  chiefly  chloride  of  sodium, -in  one  of  the  most  powerful).  The 
hot  springs  of  New  Zealand  api)ear  to  extend  from  Mount  Tongaiiro,  at  the  south- 
west end  of  the  system,  to  White  Island,  at  the  north-east  extremity.  On  April  25th 
Tongariro  was  observed  to  bo  giving  out  more  smoke  than  since  1870,  when  a 
considerable  eruption  took  place. 

Notes  on  the  Territory  of  Arizona.  By  Litton  Foubes,  m.d.,  f.b.o.s.— 
The  author,  after  alluding  to  the  general  ignorance  as  to  the  rich  territory  of 
Arizona,  pointed  out  that  it  was  now  practically  opened  up  fur  the  first  time  in  its 
history,  by  the  completion  in  the  last  days  of  May  1883  of  the  new  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  Railway,  which  will  probably  revolutionise  before  long  the  existing  lines  of 
travel,  not  only  to  Australia,  but  also  to  China  and  Japan.  This  new  line,  which 
may  be  consideFed  an  extension  westward  of  the  great  trunk  line  of  the  Atchison, 
Topeka,  and  Santa  F6,  runs  from  the  old  Si>ani8h-American  city  of  Albuquerque  in 

2x2 


668 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGRAPHICAL  SECTION 


New  Mexico,  jiasses  through  the  northern  portions  of  Arizona,  and  ]om  tbe 
Southern  Pacific  at  Mojave  m  Cftlifornia,  U  thus  forms  a  complete  traiu-ojti- 
tmental  line,  on  a  parallel  considerably  to  the  south  of  any  jireviously  exUtiog  lint 
Its  indirect  connection,  however,  with  the  Southern  Pacific  and  the  new  Sotiiirt 
line  in  Mexico  is  extremely  iraiMirtant.  The  Sonera  line  has  its  terminus  at  ti# 
ix>rt  of  Gaaymas,  on  the  Gulf  ot  California.  Here  probahly,  in  the  not  far  dimut 
future,  will  hv  the  new  port  of  arrival,  at  least  for  mails  and  ]>as»eQgere  \wu>\ 
eastwards  from  Australia,  China,  and  Japan.  At  present,  Guaymas  is  a  muj) 
Mexican  town,  couhitsting  of  adolw  houses.  Us  harbour,  however,  is  an  exccllwi 
one,  with  deep  water  up  to  the  very  !*horc,  and  well  sihelferod  from  every  wind  li 
is  the  only  jxjsBihle  mail  station  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  Is  some  five  handwd 
miles,  or  nearly  two  days'  steaming,  nearer  Australia  than  is  San  Frauciaoo.  Tke 
new  Atlantic  and  Pacific  line,  in  its  course  through  Northern  Arizona,  &l«o ojcoa 
up  a  very  imixsrtant  trnct  of  country.  Of  all  the  western  territories,  AriaoMhw 
long  been  the  moat  remote  and  inaccessible,  and  therefore  the  Icttst  kn«*wu.  It  hi 
been  neglected  in  turn  by  the  miner,  the  stock-raiser,  and  the  farmer.  The  arulily 
of  the  climate,  and  the  presence  of  hostile  Ajjache  Indians,  have  had  much  to  do 
with  this,  but  it  htw  iKjeii  due  in  a  etill  gn?ater  degree  to  the  want  of  suitable  mattii 
of  communication.  As  the  territor>'  is  now  provided  with  two  distinct  systems  of 
railways,  it  is  believe<l  that  the  long  isolation  from  which  the  country  hassuffcnol 
since  the  days  of  the  Spanish  conquerors,  will  soon  bo  broken  thnmgh.  Antm 
is  a  country  of  extraordinary  mineral  wealth.  In  many  parts  of  its  cstcnwe 
territory  it  oflfers  large  tracts  of  excellent  laud  to  the  farmer  and  stock-miwr. 
Its  chief  drawback  is  a  want  of  water,  but  this  can  Ijo  supplied  as  required  h 
irrigation  works  and  artesian  wells.  Coal,  salt,  and  the  precious  metals  exiit  In 
Arizona  in  larger  quantities  prnbubly  than  in  any  of  the  western  mining  territories. 
The  copper  mines  are  even  now  the  richest  known,  but  as  the  country  is  opened  iqi, 
still  greater  returns  may  reasonably  be  expected.  The  area  of  the  territory  i«  ftbdiil 
114,000  square  miles,  or  approximately  73,000,000  acres;  in  other  wonin,  Uiree 
times  the  size  of  the  Stat«  of  New  York.  The  general  topography  of  the  countiy 
is  that  of  a  jilatejiu  sloping  towards  the  south  and  went  from  an  altitude  of  TOOOfot 
to  the  sea-level.  The  surface  of  Arizona  is  much  diversified,  and  contains  Km 
of  the  finest  scenery  in  North  America.  In  no  country  of  the  world  cm  tit 
evidences  of  pas^t  geological  action  he  better  studied,  llie  canon  of  the  Colorado 
is  a  stupendous  water-worn  chawa,  400  miles  Inng,  and  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  l 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  depth.  The  scenery  in  many  parts  of  Arizona  is  jjraad  and 
impressive;  in  others,  the  landscape  is  little  better  than  a  desert.  The  whote  j 
country  is  still  a  strange  mixture  of  the  (dd  and  new.  Life  then?  is  in  its  naia  I 
features  much  the  same  as  it  was  when  Coronado,  in  1540,  led  his  baadi  d 
Castiliane  through  the  country  in  search  of  the  "Seven  Cities."  But  this  phiaeof  * 
existence  is  rapidly  passing  away,  and  btfore  long  Arizona  will  awako  from  tlifl 
sleep  of  centuries  which  has  till  now  vveighetl  ufxin  her. 

On  KairwaiL  By  Edward  Rae,  f.r.q.s. — The  author,  who  visited  tb«  l<il 
city  in  1877,  gave  a  skeJ<;h  of  its  ]«i.st  and  present  toixjgraphy,  with  a  mon?  detailw 
account  of  its  history.  Till  the  last  few  years,  no  city  of  Kain\-an's  importance  i 
antecedents  was  so  little  known  ;  for  Christiana  could  only  visit  it  at  ga'Ut  rist.  Itt| 
1835  the  Marquis  of  Waterford  was  stoneil;  and  in  1877  Mr.  Rac  was  cursed  i 
threatened,  and  his  servant  had  to  escape  for  his  lifo, 

Kairwan — fovmded,  acci>rding  to  Mohammedan  tradition,  by  divine  inspiration- 
rapidly  grew  in  extent  and  power.  Its  mo*«que  with  five  hundrcxl  colimms,  its  i 
jMipulation,  its  gorgeous  summer-palaces,  its  caravan  trade,  its  wealth  aj)4l  le&ntit 
its  marvellous  conquests,  but  above  all,  its  inviolate  and  holy  character  as  a  city  { 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


669 


pilgrimage,  made  it  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  Mohammedun  world,  nnd  it  has  left 
imperishable  traces  upon  science,  commerce,  and  the  arts — in  fact,  npon  civilisation 
genenJly. 

A  Journey  in  Eussiaa  Central  Asia,  including  Ku^a,  Bokhara,  and 
Khiva.  By  the  Key.  Henry  Lansdeij-.  d.d.,  f.r.o.8. — The  author  described  a  six 
Tnonths'  journey  perfornicwi  by  hiiu  during  the  latter  half  of  1882,  of  12,145  miles 
(5000  by  niU,  3400  by  \vat«r,  3000  by  road,  and  800  in  sadiUo  or  cradle),  having  fur 
its  princijial  object  the  distribution  of  religious  literatiu-e  in  prisons  and  hospitals, 
imd  the  collection  of  ethnological  and  geneml  information. 

Leaving  London,  June  2Gthj  tlte  author  arrived  at  Tolx>Isk  on  August  12tb,  and 
steamed  up  the  Irtish  to  Omsk,  the  capital  of  the  new  general  government  of  the 
8tep|w,  lately  formed  of  the  provinces  of  Akmolinsk  and  Scmipiilatinsk  out  of 
Western  Siberia  and  the  province  of  Semiretchia,  hitherto  part  of  Russian  Turkistan, 
This  general  government,  with  that  of  Turktiitan  (consisting  of  the  provinces  of  Syr 
Daria,  Amu  Daria,  Fergana,  and  Zerafshan),  now  makes  np  "  Russian  Central  Asia." 
In  fourt4.*en  days  from  August  19th,  tiie  author  posted  1198  miles  through  Semi- 
palatinsk,  over  the  Chingiz-tau,  the  east  end  of  Lake  Balkajsh,  and  up  the  Hi  valley 
to  Kulja.     Here  he  visited  a  Sibo  encampment,  and  the  Chinese  governor  at  Suidun, 
after  which  he  followe<l  the  ijxjst  road  through  tho  towns  of  Auli-Ata,  Vemoi,  and 
Chimkend,  to  Tashkend.     I)r.  I^nnsdell  then  proceeded  southwards  to  Kokand  and 
Samartnnrl,  and  crossed  the  Hissar  Mountains  at  the  Takhta-Karacha  Pass  (5180  feet) 
to  Shehr-i-Sebz,  where  be  wa-s  received  by  the  Emir  of  Bokhara,  <md  treated  as  a 
gue«t  during  his  stay  in   the  Khanate.     Procce«liiig  thence  148  miles,  throughij 
Chirakphi  and  Karshi,  he  arrived  on  tlie  sixth  day  at  the  city  of  Bokhara.     Leaving  i 
this  place  on  August  IGth,  he  passed  through  Kara-kul,  and  across  the  Simdukli 
sands  to  Charjui,  a  journey  of  48  miles  in  three  days,  and  then,  with  six  horses,  a 
tarantass,  two  interpreters,  eight  oarsmen,  and  five  mounted  guariis  on  shore  as  a 
protection  from  the  Turkomans,  ho  floated  300  miles  down  the  Amu-daria,  to  the 
Itussian  fort  Petro-Alexandrovsk,  reaching  it  safely  on  Octolxjr  26th.     Dr.  Lansdell 
then  re-crossed  tlie  Oxns  to  Khiva,  and  twice  had  audience  of  the  Khan,  after  which 
he  left  on   Novemlwr  2iid  for  a  journey  of  107  miles  on  horseback  through  the 
cidtivated  districts  of  Shuhkhavat,  Tashaus,  and  llyali,  toKunya  Urgentch,  where  a 
most  interesting  visit  was  paid  to  ruins  said  to  date  from  the  time  of  Genghis  Khan. 
The  author  next  prepared,  with  two  interpreters,  two  camel-drivers,  two  horses, ' 
and  five  camels,  to  cross  the  Aralo-Caspian  desert.     rroceoiliTig  by  the  well  of 
'Karategin,  the  last  shepherd  was  sjHDken  with  on  November  10th,  alter  which  the  party 
met  no  human  beings  for  eleven  days.    The  route  lay  along  the  old  Oius  bed  to  the 
Barj'kamish  Lake,  and  then  continued  in  a  sooth-westerly  direction  to  wells  at] 
lTzun-kuyu,and  Ka^akhli,  after  vvhieh  the  travellers  descended  into  the  dry  bed  ofaai 
inland  sea,  and  skirte<l  the  cliffs  of  Ka[<lan  Kir.     The  wells  of  Sekhiskhan  and  Tuer  1 
were  passed,  after  which,  from  the  siimmit  of  the  Sari-baba  Hills  was  seen  the  Kara- j 
Bogbaz  boy  of  the  Caspian.    The  well  of  Demerdjen  was  safely  reached,  SiuU  was  • 
ixis8e<l,  and  on  November  22nd.  after  a  journey  of  403  miles  from  Kunya  Urgentch, 
the  party  arrived  at  Krasnovodsk.    Dr.  Lansdell  then  crossed  the  Caspian  to  Baku, 
whence,  aftfir  visiting  the  nil  wells  and  naphtha  fires  of  the  neighbourhood,  he 
proceeded  by  the  new  but  then  unopened  railway  to  Tiflis,  and  so  home  by  Poti 
and  Odessa,  having  fully  accomplifihed  the  objects  of  his  journey. 

On  the  Tolcanic  and  Earthquake  Herons  of  Central  America,  with 
Obserratiom  on  Recent  Phenomena.  By  William  Hancock,  Chinese  Im- 
perial Customs  Service. — The  author  entered  Mexico  at  Acapulco  on  November  12th 
last  year.    Crossing  the  Rio  do  la  Veata,  he  arrived  at  La  Providencia  on  a  table*land 


670 


PRCXJEEDINGS  OF  THE  GEOGILiPHICAL  SECTION 


at  2000  feet,  ftiui  at  the  base  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  thou  exiunining  the  < 
volcano  of  Zapotilla  (3000  feet).  From  Mexico  he  travelled  by  sea  to  Son  Jo»^(]«J 
Guatemala,  and  thence  to  the  lake  of  Amatitlan.  The  volcano  of  Pacaya  (8400  feet)  j 
was  asccndetl  from  this  point.  A  regular  truncated  cono  rises  from  the  ioleriorof ' 
an  ancient  crater.  The  summit  contains  a  crater,  alxiut  250  feet  ia  dianjet«f  W 
100  feet  deep  ;  the  circumference  is  fissured,  and  luodtsrato  volumes  of  gteam  %mi 
issuiog  from  the  fissures.  Chemical  action  was  not  apparent.  The  Ust  ftni^ 
erujition  was  in  1775.  A  parasitic  cone  exists  against  one  side  of  the  ancient  en<f 
rim  in  the  interior. 

Between  Amatitlan  and  Guatemala  enormous  deposits  of  pumice  were  {AmmI 
The  Guatemala  plat^^au  approaches  the  lake  in  an  escarpment  exhibiting  a  tr»cli;tic 
formation.     The  region  round  the  volcamDcs  Agua,  Fuego,  and  Acatenango  «u 
visited.    The  laet  eruption  of  Fuego  was  in  July  1880 ;  lava  was  discharged  oa  Uw 
Pacific  slope.   During  the  author's  residence  in  the  district,  rdumhog^  or  andergmnid 
rumblings,  were  not  infrequent.     From  Guatemahi,  Salvador  was  reached,  nnd  tb 
volcano  of  Izalco  asoomled  as  far  as  ])osublc.    The  eruptions  occurred  on  an  8V«n«» 
once  in  thirteen  minutes ;  the  smoke  and  vapour  rose  to  from  1000  t)  2000  feet 
above  the  crater  ;  showers  of  pumice  and  sand  were  ejected.    Several  slight  «rti>. 
quake  shocks  were  extjerience^l  at  San  Salvador.  The  lake  of  llopango  was  vigitd,to4 
also  the  volcano  in  the  centre,  which  came  up  on  January  20th,  1880,  and  Is  gnMluiJlj 
sinking  again.   Between  December  24th  and  30th,  1879, 372  earthquake  sbockit^tB 
reconlfd  at  the  lake  side.     The  water  had  a  strong  odour  of  sulphuretted  byiiropit 
From  Salva<ior  the  author  proceeded  to  La  Union  in  the  Gulf  of  Fonseca.  Thi 
islands  are  all  extinct  volcanoes.     Cosij^uina  was  pajwed.     During  the  eniptia&i^ 
.January  20th,  1835,  the  ashes  were  carried  to  Jamaica  and  Santa  Fe  de  BiiguU,aQj 
the  explosii^ns  were  heard  at  Belize,  800  miles  distant.    Journeying  from  Coriaio  to 
Managua  in  Nicaragua,  the  volcanoes  of  El  Yiejo,  Santn  Clara,  Telica  Orola,  Aocwuiw, 
Las  Pilas,  and  Momotorabo  were  passed,     llomotomln)  rises  from  the  edg«  of  tlw 
lake.     Near  Managua  the  sunken  craters  filled  with  water,  Tiscapa,  Xiha{«,  gud 
Asosoca,  were  examined,  and  the  volcano  of  Masaya  was  ascended.   The  twin  vtiauu 
of  Nindiri  exhibits  an  ancient  crater,  shallow,  and  having  a  ilat,  ciR-ukr  ftoot. 
Subsequently  it  burst  a^^uin  into  eniption  from  two  new  craters,  one  at  each  sidoiod 
within  the  original  crater,  and  the  undermining  by  the  expulsion  u(  Uva  caused  tl»« 
original  floor  to  drop  in  three  steps,  leaving  terraces  all  round. 

The  author  considers  that  the  existing  volcanoes  of  Masaya  and  Niadiri  m 
merely  cones  in  the  centre  of  a  flat  crater  about  twenty  miles  in  circnmfcrtoce,  He 
lake  of  Masaya  is  incliidet\  within  the  walls.  It  is  approached  by  a  path  down  the 
face  of  a  craterous  precipice,  350  feet  in  height ;  the  lake  is  400  feet  deeju.  Tl» 
volcano  of  Mombachu  was  seen  at  Granada,  and  several  of  the  volcanic  idiuula  iatJso 
lake  of  Nicaragua  were  visit*«d,  including  Zapatera,  which  exhibits  a  Funk  enter 
fille<l  with  water.  The  author  was  prevented  from  visiting  the  adjacent  island  of 
Ometepec  through  unfavourable  weather;  since  then  (February),  accoitiitnj  to 
accounts  received,  the  volcano  of  the  same  name  has  broken  out  in  cruptiou  aflei 
years  of  repose,  and  the  inhabitants  have  retired  from  the  island. 

On  New  Guinea.  By  Codtts  Trotter,  F.n.o.s.— A  sketch  of  the  physiral 
geography,  natural  resources,  and  character  of  the  inhabitants,  in  whicli  ilio 
aullior  attributes  the  prevailing  ignorance  and  indilTerenco  on  the  subja't  ty 
causes  which  have  ceased  to  ojjerate,  such  as,  Ist^  the  difficulties  of  the  navigntion, 
now  minimised  by  stearn ;  2nd,  the  exclusive  system  of  tlie  Dutch  ia  ilia  Spiof 
Islands,  which  prevented  access  to  regions  to  the  east  of  tliem ;  and,  latterlj',  (he 
diversion  of  the  strciun  of  enterprise  towards  Austrsilia.  As  regards  the  firvi,  the 
unsurveyod  reefs  and  channels  of  Torres  Straits,  the  concentrated  violence  of  lh« 


OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.        i  671 

noDsoon  there,  and  the  mud  flats  and  shallows  farther  west,  were  even  more 
brmidable  to  sailing  vessels  on  the  southern  coasts  than  the  osoally  precipitous  and 
uurbourless  character  of  the  northern. 

New  Guinea  was  actually  discovered,  by  the  Portuguese  or  Spaniards,  in  1526-8. 
More  is  probably  due  to  the  early  Spanish  navigators  than  is  commonly  supposed ; 
in  &ct,  by  the  time  of  Torres  (who  achieved  the  south  passage  in  1606,  though  this 
is  shown,  mysteriously,  in  a  map  of  earlier  date)  the  whole  outline  of  the  island  was 
roughly  known,  except  the  northern  coast  east  of  Cape  Finisterre. 

The  author  traces  its  geological  relations  with  Australia,  showing  the  date  of 
their  separation  to  be  probably  not  earlier  than  the  Lower  Miocene,  shells  of  that  age 
being  found  on  the  east  of  the  Gulf  of  Papua  identical  with  those  of  the  same 
series  in  Victoria  and  South  Australia.  Of  the  New  Guinea  Amphibia,  too,  those 
not  of  wide  distribution  are  exclusively  Australian.  On  the  west  of  the  Gulf 
of  Papua,  from  the  swampy  plains  intersected  by  the  Fly  and  other  streams 
which  bring  down  the  drainage  from  the  mountaiilbus  interior,  isolated  hills 
of  Australian  character  rise  abruptly,  which  apparently,  like  the  islands  of 
Torres  Straits,  escaped  submersion.  These  plains,  since  they  emerged,  have  been 
mainly  occupied  by  an  Indo-Malay  vegetation.  Westwards  as  far  as  Princess 
Marianne  Island  the  sea  is  so  shallow  and  the  coast  so  low,  that  nothing  is  -visible 
Eirom  shipboard.  Here  a  great  submarine  bank  extends  to  the  Am  Islands,  which 
Bfr.  Wallace  shows  to  have  formed  part  of  the  mainland.  The  west  and  north, 
coasts  are  mainly  precipitous — the  cliffs  frequently  of  recent  limestone,  with  raised 
ooral  beaches — broken  by  considerable  rivers,  with  flat  mangrove-covered  banks, 
affording  access  to  the  interior.  Otherwise  the  densely-wooded  mountain  ranges 
make  such  access  very  difficult,  though  opposite  New  Britain  these  rise  in  fertile 
terraces  or  plateaus.  The  north  coasts  are  almost  free  from  reefs,  but  the  south  coast 
of  the  east  peninsula  is  skirted  by  one  at  a  distance  of  five  to  six  miles,  thus  forming 
valuable  harbours  and  anchorages.  Vessels  stationed  here  would  command  the 
passage  both  of  Torres  Straits,  through  which  passes  a  yearly  increasing  traffic  with 
India  and  Europe,  and  of  the  neighbouring  China  Straits,  the  direct  route  from 
Australia  to  China.  The  interior  here  consists  of  ranges  of  rolling  grassy  hills  with 
scattered  timber  of  eucalyptus,  acacia,  &c.,  interspersed  by  streams,  and  very  fertile 
tracts  well  fitted  for  sugar  and  other  tropical  cultivation.  Beyond  is  the  central  Owen 
Stanley  range,  13,000  feet  high.  Here  the  rocks,  judging  from  small  fragments  of 
mica  slate,  quartz,  sandstones,  greenstones,  and  jasperoids,  are  indistinguishable  from 
the  Devonian  and  Silurian  series  of  the  gold-fields  of  New  South  Wales ;  but  gold 
has  hitherto  been  found  only  in  very  small  quantities.  Kocks  of  similar  age  occur 
in  the  north-west  peninsula;  the  central  mountains  there,  the  Arfak,  seem 
mainly  granite  and  gneiss.  Severe  earthquakes  occur  on  the  north  coast,  but 
no  active  volcanoes  have  been  seen.  Tliey  may  exist ;  Mr.  W.  Powell  observed  a 
mass  of  pumice  at  a  considerable  height,  opposite  to  New  Britain,  but  the  great 
volcanic  energies  of  that  island  seem  to  die  away  in  the  smaller  islands  to  the  west- 
ward, and  to  pass  north-west  through  the  Schouten  Islands  towards  the  Moluccas  and 
Philippines.  The  forests  contain  magnificent  timber  trees,  spices,  barks,  and  gums. 
The  sago-palm  and  sugar  may  become  great  staples. 

There  are  also  tracts  of  land  well  suited  for  cattle  raising,  but  it  is  a  question  how 
far  the  best  lands  are  unoccupied.  The  natives  have  a  keen  sense  of  rights  not  only 
in  the  soil,  but  in  the  fruits  of  the  forest  trees,  and  the  fish  in  the  streams  belonging 
to  the  tribe ;  and  probably  would  not  work  regularly  for  Europeans.  Perhaps  con- 
fidence might  bo  best  created  first  by  establishing  trading  depdt8,for  there  is  already 
an  active  trade  between  the  hill  and  coast  tribes  in  their  respective  produce  and 
manuiiactures,  and  in  Western  New  Gninea  a  small  foreign  trade  with  the  Malays 


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OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION. 


679 


Kinily,  or  tribc^  nf  Hi  to  take  the  governmont  of  the  country  to  the  south  of  the 
fangtsi.     Kingdoms  thus  formed  extended  to  the  south  of  Tonquin,  b.c.  2208. 

The  Annamites  and  Shans  trace  their  earliest  dynasties  to  Chinese  iraftorial 
umilies.  Thoir  kinsdoma  were  in  existence  within  the  bounds  of  the  Chinese 
napire  before  its  earliejJt  contraction.  Previous  to  the  abolition  of  feudalism, 
1.0.  246,  the  empire  was  divided  into  a  varyiog  number  of  princifjalities,  whose 
epeodcnce  varied  with  the  power  of  the  rcignin;:^  emperor.  By  b-c,  1550,  owing  to 
Bvolts,  it  had  contracted  to  within  the  northern  bank  of  the  Yangtsi  Kiang ;  and 
uring  the  Chou  dynasty,  n.c.  1134-255,  seldom  included  any  portion  of  the  basiu 
f  that  river. 

The  founder  of  the  Cbou  dynasty  divided  the  empire  into  seventy-two  princi- 
allties,  and  appoinleti  his  relations  as  nilers  over  tliem.  His  elder  brother  left  the 
mpire,  and  founded  tlie  kinuidoms  of  Youe  and  Hon  on  the  frontiers  of  SsQ-ch'uan, 
!lje  rulers  of  the  kingdoms  left  oiitaide  by  the  contraction  of  the  empire  stitl  hold 
he  title  of  Chou  that  was  borne  by  the  princes  of  the  Chinese  empire.  Other 
Tidenoe  leads  to  the  conviction  that  the  Shans  formed  part  of  the  early  Chioese 
jorde.  M.  Terrien  do  Lacoujwrie  allows  that  over  30  per  cent,  of  the  Shan 
ocabulary  has  come  from  the  ssmie  sotirce  as  that  of  the  Chinese. 

Long  before  the  time  of  Gaudama,  b.c.  543,  the  Yun  t>hans  had  founded  towns 
&  the  south  of  Yunnan,  .ind  weru  pushing;  down  the  valley  of  the  Mekong  throngh 
be  Yun  or  Karen  country.  These  Karens,  there  is  reason  to  btlievc,  were  the 
urthest  a*lvancc  party  of  tho  Chinese  immigration ;  for  a  long  period  they  ruled 
iver  the  kingdom  of  Youc-cbang  (Tchen-Tching,  Lin-y,  or  Lam-ap),  and  in  the 
Dturth  century  over  Cambodia.  In  a.d.  431  the  Yun  Shans  founded  several  cities 
n  the  valley  of  the  Menam,and  by  707  they  had  overrun  and  occupied  the  northern 
lalf  of  Camlwlia. 

Early  in  the  sixth  century  b.c.»  the  Man  Shans  entered  the  valley  of  the  Irrnwadi^ 
ittd  drove  tho  liurraese  tribes  to  the  .southward.  About  A.n.  1220,  they  annexed  ' 
iLBsam,  and  became  predominant  over  the  Shan  States  to  the  east  .and  west  of  the 
lalween  or  far  south  as  Zimme.  By  the  end  of  the  thirteenth  century,  they  had 
hattert'd  the  Burmese  Empire,  driven  the  Yun  Shans  to  Chaliang  (from  whence  the 
litter  descended  and  founded  the  kingdom  *j['  Siam),  attacked  Java,  Malacca,  and 
/ambodia,  annexed  part  of  Pegu,  and  extended  their  away  over  the  Malay  Peninsula 
»  far  south  as  T.avoy.  From  this  time  to  a.d.  1554,  Shan  princes  were  ruling  in 
he  valleys  of  the  Irrawadi,  f?itlang,  and  Sal  ween,  as  well  as  in  the  country  to  tho 
imth  of  Yunnan,  as  far  eastward  as  Cochin  China. 

The  JjioB  Shans  were  i5ettle<l  in  the  counl'"y  to  the  we«t  of  Tongking  at  a  very 
arly  date,  and  had  already  wedged  themselves  into  the  Yun  country,  as  far  south  as 
Tien  Chang,  Ijefore  th«  arrival  of  the  Yun  Shans  in  tbe  valley  of  the  Menam ;  they 
re,  therefore,  known  to  their  neighbours  as  the  Lau,  or  Lao,  which  means  ancient 
>r  old. 

CttrioBities  of  Travel  on  the  Tibetan  Border,  By  E.  Coldobkb  Babkb, 
'.B.a.&,  Chinese  Secretary  of  Legation,  Peking.— 'i'he  author  endeavoured  in  this 
laper  to  show  from  his  limited  experiences  on  tho  Tibetan  border-lands  of  China, 
low  vast  was  the  field  of  research  still  open  to  explorers,  entirely  ajwrt  from  mere 
ravel  in  unknown  countries  ;  and  he  strongly  urged  tho  necessity  of  the  employ- 
Qent  of  scientifically  trained  observers.  Tho  first  instance  adduced  was  his  inability 
o  describe  the  economy  and  farasites  of  the  wax-inscct  of  Western  China,  the  eggs 
tf  which  are  transfiorted  from  a  valley  on  the  border  of  Yunnan  to  a  plain  in 
/V^estem  SsQ-ch'uan,  a  distance  of  more  than  200  miles.  A  great  multitude  of 
g^riers — ten  thousand  or  more  in  numlier,  travelling  in  single  file  all  through  tho 
light,  and  resting  by  day — convey  the  galls  to  their  destination,  where  they  are 


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OF  THE  BRITISH  ASSOCIATION.  675 

western  Madagascar  was  dwelt  upon  at  some  length,  and  also  the  nature  of  the 
iathority  exercised  by  the  petty  kings.  The  japer  concluded  with  some  remarks 
m  the  natural  history  and  climate  of  Noss-Vey. 

On  the  Somali  and  Galla  Countries.  By  E.  G.  Ravenstein,  f.e.o.8.— The 
author,  having  given  a  sketch  of  the  history  of  geographical  explorations  in  these 
countries,  dwelt  upon  the  information  available  for  the  compilation  by  him  of  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society's  map  of  Equatorial  Africa,  and  finally  enlarged  upon 
the  particulars  obtained  by  the  Rev.  C.  Wakefield  from  natives.  He  pointed  to 
ECisimayu  as  a  port  presenting  peculiar  facilities  to  a  traveller  desiroiis  of  penetrating 
uto  the  country  of  the  Bworani  Galla. 

Beport  of  the  Committee,  consisting  of  Mr.' James  Glaisher  (Secretary), 
he  Ilev.  Canon  Tbistham,  and  the  Rev.  F.  Laweence,  for  Promoting  tlie 
Survey  of  Eastern  Palestine. 

1.  The  CJommittec  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund  have  been  endeavouring 
Inriug  the  last  year  to  obtain  from  the  Sultan  the  Firman  granting  permission  for 
he  prose<ttition  of  the  Survey  of  Eastern  Palestine. 

2.  Their  efforts,  aided  by  the  personal  influence  of  Lord  Dufferin,  have  hitherto 
proved  ineffectual.  They  have  therefore  decided  on  taking  up  another  branch  of 
their  original  prospectus,  and  will  proceed  at  once  with  the  Geological  Survey  of 
Palestine. 

3.  A  great  deal  of  geological  work  has  been  done  in  the  country  by  individual 
travellers,  but  up  to  the  present  time  there  has  been  no  expedition  specially  organised 
for  the  purpose  of  effecting  a  complete  geological  survey. 

4.  llie  valley  of  the  Jordan  and  the  basin  of  the  Dead  Sea  have  been  examined 
by  M.  Lartet,  whose  work  on  the  subject  appeared  in  the  year  1864 ;  and  by  Dr. 
Fraas»  whose  reix)rt  was  published  in  1867.  Papers  on  the  geology  of  Palestine  by 
English  travellers  have  also  appeared  in  the  '  Quarterly  Journal  of  the  Geological 
Society,'  and  elsewhere,  by  Messrs.  Duncan,  Carter,  Holland,  Bauermann,  Huddle- 
itonc,  and  Milne.  The  Rev.  Canon  Tristram  and  Captain  Conder  have  also  fur- 
nislicd  a  large  quantity  of  notes  and  information  on  the  subject. 

6.  The  Committee  of  the  Exploration  Society  have  been  fortunate  in  securing 
;he  services  of  Professor  Hull,  f.b.s.,  ll.d.,  f.o.s.,  Director  of  the  Geological  Survey 
Df  Ireland,  for  this  important  work.  He  proposes  to  start  about  the  middle  of 
October,  accompmicd  by  his  son,  Dr.  E.  G.  Hull,  as  medical  adviser,  and  to  proceed 
to  examine  the  country  from  the  south,  namely,  the  Wady  Arabali,  which  runs 
northward  firom  Akabah  to  the  southern  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Here  a  base  is 
found  in  the  granites  of  the  Sinai  Peninsula.  It  will  also  be  desirable  to  penetrate 
into  Moab,  along  the  border  of  which  country  the  Nubian  sandstone  comes  to  the 
sarface ;  and  most  important  data,  bearing  on  the  geological  problems,  may  here  bo 
expected.  After  examining  the  Wady  Arabah  and  the  town  of  Moab,  the  party 
will  proceed,  by  the  route  which  will  appear  to  Professor  Hull  most  convenient,  to 
make  a  geological  reconnaissance  of  Western  Palestine. 

6.  The  expedition  will  be  strengthened  by  the  presence  and  experience  of  Captain 
Kitchener,  b.b.,  formerly  one  of  the  officers  of  the  Survey  of  Western  Palestine. 
Perhaps  Lieutenant  Muntcll,  n.E.,  will  also  be  able  to  join  the  party.  During  the 
geological  oijerations,  the  engineers  will  be  instructed  to  clear  up  certain  points  of 
interest  which  lie  about  that  part  of  the  country.  Thus,  they  will  examine  the 
eastern  end  of  the  Tih  Desert,  and  the  passes  leading  up  to  the  plateau,  so  as  to 
determine  the  best  route  for  a  large  body  of  people  travelling  northwards  from  Sinai ; 
they  will  explore  the  toiiogrsiphical  features  of  the  Arabah  cast  and  west,  and  the 
southern  edge  of  the  Negeb,  so  as  to  ascertain  the  passes  from  the  Tih  plateau  to  the 


first  terrace;  they  will  cxnmiiio  the  site*  of  Ezion-Teber,  Elath,  K^ulesb, 
way  of  t}ie  spies ;  look  for  the  road  or  rtwls  by  which  communication  wM  kept  up^ 
between  Jerusalem  and  Ezion-geber,  the  posts  on  the  old  Roman  road ;  and  tbroi^ 
light,  if  fiosaiblej  on  the  question  whether  the  Iftraelites  did  not  go  over  to  Anbla 
Proper,  instead  of  remaining,  as  is  generally  aupposal,  in  the  Tih  Desert,  It  m 
expected  that  the  expedition  will  accomplish  its  objects  in  about  four  mcmtlid. 
cost  of  the  whole,  includtng  publication  of  results,  is  estimated  under  2000/, 

Besides  the  above,  the  following  papers  were  read: — 

On  the  proposed  Jordan  Channel.    By  Tbelawnv  Sadndeks,  f.rxj  & 

On  the  Jordan  Valley,    rsy  ihe  Rov.  Canon  Tbistbam. 


NEW  BOOKS. 
By  E.  C.  Ryb,  Librarian  b.o.s. 

EUROPE. 
Caix  de  Saiiit-Aymottr,  Vto.  de. — Les  Pays  Sud-Slavcs  de  TAustro-Ho 
(Croatio,  Slavonic,  Bixwie,  lierzegovine,  Dalmatie).    Paris  (Plon):  1883,1 
pp.  iv.  and  301  [no  index],  maps  and  illustratioQB.    {Dulau:  price  4s.) 

Tlio  author  (who  was  charged  with  an  archax>logicaI  mission  by  M. 
Ferry,  French  Minister  of  Public  Instruction)  visited  Bosnia  and  the 
govina  in  1S79,  and  spent  some  two  months  in  the  country.     His  ilia 
are  mosily  from  Evans's  '  Throui?h  Bosnia  ami  Herzegovina  daring  the  In 
rection.'    The  nwp  (scale  1 : 3,700,000)  is  of  a  meagre  description. 

ASIA. 

Aboolfeda. — Gdographie  d'Aboulfedft,  traduito  de  TArabe  en  Franfuis  et  aeoompacjij 
do  Notes  par  M.  Stanislas  Guyard,    Tome  11,     Seconde  partie.    Contenaut  la  fin 
de  la  tmducHon  da  texte  Arabe  ct  I'lndex  general.    Paris  [ImprimerieNationale]:  1 
1883,  4 to.,  pp.  viii.  &  320.     (DuJau  :  price  los.) 

The  first  and  part  1  of  tb©  second  volumes  of  this  translation  of  Abulfeda^ 
Tacouym-Alboldau  were  publi:ihed  so  loug  ago  as  1848,  the  work  being  i 
taken  by  Prof.  Reiuaud.     M,  (ruyard  now  completes  it,  but  does  not  attach 
much  importance  to  it  as  his  illustrious  predecessor  did,  in  consequence  of  t| 
original  sources  of  Abulfcda's  information  having  since  that  date  become  ao 
Bible.     The    pre.^^cnt    part   includes    Syria,    Mesopotamia,  the   Arabian   Ir 
KhoflKJstiin   or  Aliwfiz  (the  ancient  Susiana),    Fars  or   F&rsistan,    KinW 
Sidjist.^n  or  Seitstiin,  Sind,  Hind  (Hindostan),  China,  the  Islands  of  the  InrJ 
OceJin,  RoQra  (Asia  Minor)  and  adjacent  reorinns,  Armenia,  Arrdn,  and 
baidjin,  Djalxil  or 'Iriiq  al-'Adjam  (Persian  Irak),  De'ilem  or  DaTlam,  i 
or  GflAn,  Tabaristln,  Mfizandarftn,  and  Qoumis,  Kbor&san,  Z&lx)uIistAn  j 
Ghofir,  Tokhririsifiit)  und  Badalcshrm,  Kharizm,  Tranaoxiana  and  some  li 
jwrtions  of  Turkistan. 

A  general  (historical  and  geographical)  Index  for  the  wbolo  work  is 
with  another  one  of  authors  and  their  works, 

Boiiinaifl  TCapt]  A.,  and  Panlus  [Prof.]  A.— La  Cocbinchine  Contemj 
Paris  (Challamel) :  1884  [1883],  8vo.,  pp.  xi.  and  490  [no  index],  map.  (]| 
price  7s.  Gd,y 

This  opportune  volume  (a  part  of  the  Bibliotbeque  Algerienne  et  t 
published  by  Challamel  aln6)  contains  a  sketch  of  tho  History  and  j 
political,  and  economic  Geography  of  Cochin  China.    M.  Bouinais, 


NEW  BOOKS.  677 

authors,  has  held  office  under  Governor  Le  Myro  de  Vilcrs  in  Cochin  China,  and 
the  excellent  '  Excursions  et  Reconnaissances*  origiDatcd  by  the  latter  official^ 
imd  now  publishing  i>eriodically  at  Saigon,  have  supplied  much  of  his  informa- 
tion. The  map  (scale  1 :  900,000  or  nearly  14i  miles  to  the  inch)  is  a  reduction 
of  Comniundant  Bigrel's  large  20-«beet  map. 

Dtlke,  [SurgeOB-Major]  0.  T. — A  historical  and  descriptive  Report  on  the  dis- 
tricts of  '1  hal-Chotiali  tiud  liarnai,  with  the  adjacent  country  inhabited  by  Biluch 
and  Pathan  Trit>e8.  Calcutta  (Printed  at  llie  Foreign  Department  Press)  :  1883, 
fo.»  pp.  201,  raa))«. 

The  author,  Aasiistant  to  the  agent  to  the  Governor-General  in  Biluchlstan, 
here  roi^rts  mi  the  Kach,  Kowas,  2awar,  Sangan  and  Thal-Choliaii  districts, 
also  on  the  Marri  trib<^,  in  short  on  the  hill  portion  of  8ewistaii.  The  name 
Sewislati,  it  is  observed,  is  given  on  most  maps  to  the  country  between  the 
Bolan  Pass  and  the  Dorajat,  but  it  has  of  late  passed  out  of  common  use 
amongst  the  natives  of  Biluchistan,  who  ouly  know  uf  Siwi,  a  small  plain  at  the 
head  of  the  so-called  Kach  of  Gandawa. 

This  Reix>rt  is  dividid  into  nine  parts,  of  which  the  first  contains  the  ancient 
and  mi>lem  history  of  Sewistan,  including  a  geographical  and  general  descrip- 
tion of  its  present  condition,  with  accounts  of  its  traffic  and  tnide,  routes  and 
n>ads,  crime,  revenue,  and  jiolitical  and  military  arrangements  ;  the  second  is  a 
complete  discussion  of  Kach,  Hamadun,  Kowas  (conventionally  known  as  the 
Eastern  Panixai  country),  and  the  I'auizai  and  Sarangzai  Kakars;  the  third  is 
a  like  treatment  of  the  Zawar  valley  (the  Ilamai  district),  including  .i  descrijj- 
tion  ol  the  Sjtin  Tarin  trilx:  living  in  it,  and  of  the  Pechi  Sheikhs  and  other 
small  tribes  connected  with  them  ;  the  fourth  treats  of  Mian  Kach  and  the 
Mian  Kach  Syads;  the  fifth  of  Sangan,  the  Barozai  Sirdars  and  the  Panni 
Pathatis;  the  sixth  of  the  Marri  tribe,  of  whom  the  author  had  the  management 
and  reduction  to  order  (including  a  history  of  the  Khetraus  and  another  of  the 
Zarkiin  Pathans  of  the  Kulu  Valley);  the  seventh  of  Thal-t'hotiali  (with 
separate  discussions  of  llial-Chotiali  and  the  Shadozais  of  Tali,  the  Spin  Tanns 
of  Thai,  Lunis,  Hasanis,  Miisa  Kbel,  Ilamaazai  Kakars,  and  Dumars)  ;  and  tlie 
eighth  and  ninth  of  asseasmcnts  and  other  revenue  details,  including  a  meteoro- 
logical Be^istcr  from  July  1881  to  Mai-ch  1882. 

The  modern  Sewistan  is  defined  as  a  triangular  stretch  of  hill  and  upland 
country,  the  irregular  haiie  of  which  rests  on  30"^  30*  N.  lat.,  whilst  its  rouuded 
ni>ex  reaches  2bP  3')'  N.  lat.  ;  its  western  angle  touches  tiT^^  E.  long.,  and  its 
eastern  point  is  at  TO*'  30'  E.  long.  Its  surface  may  he  roughly  calculated  at 
lJ8r>t>  square  miles,  and  generally  sjieaking  may  be  deocnbecl  as  presenting  a 
scries  of  limestone  ridges,  rising  to  the  dignity  of  mountains  in  the  main  range 
which  extends  from  tite  Pil  Mountain  to  the  tialu  Peak.  The  greater  portion 
is  in  fact  an  inhospitable  wilderness  of  rock,  consisting  of  bare  mountams,  hills, 
hummocks,  and  confined  valleys.  Ilardly  826  square  miles  of  this  area  possess 
a  satisfactory  supply  of  perennial  water;  nmch  fertilising  power  is  however 
waste<l  in  the  floods  of  the  Nari  river,  but  in  most  of  the  districts  no  very  great 
increase  of  cultivation  can  be  expected.  The  rain  on  which  the  great  bulk  of 
the  country'  depends  is  uncertain  and  precarious ;  and  the  result  of  the  physical 
conditions  is  that  lar^ie  settlements  cannot  be  hoped  for, —there  being  indeed 
nothing  to  indicate  that  Sewistan  was  ever  much  more  fx^pulousand  prosperous 
than  it  is  now,  with  the  exception  of  the  fc>ibi,  Barkhan,  and  Thai  plains,  where 
large  forts,  roinetl  towns,  and  traces  of  extended  cultivation  indicate  great  pros- 
jierity  at  a  former  period. 

The  geographical  outline  is  followed  by  some  notes  on  the  mammals,  fishes, 
and  i>lftnt4<,  and  tables  of  raiufall  anil  fK>pulation,  &.c. 

The  iK)rtion  devoted  to  routes,  of  which  hlfy-three  are  particularised,  con- 
tains necessarily  most  valuable  topographical  details  as  to  elevations,  distances, 
names,  and  general  information,  and  is  illustrated  by  maps  of  the  road  from 
Quttta  to  Sangau  (34  miles  to  the  inch),  the  Bheji  route  between  Sibi  and 
Thnl-Chotiali  (4  miles  to  the  inch),  CapUdn  Hope's  sketch  of  the  Ararab  Pass, 
Sangun  and  Haniai  to  the  Cbapar  Gorge  (4  miles  to  the  inch),  and  Sibi  to 
Vitakri,  with  adjacent  country.    There  is  alao  a  separate  large  and  we]l>exe- 


cut€d  map  in  colours  (scale  1  :  500,000,  or  7*891  miles  to  the  ioci>)»  b««Bd  « 
one  from  the  War  Office,  showing  tie  Sibi  and  Thal-Choliali  route*  connecting 
the  Kiiojak  with  the  Indus  Valley,  also  the  intervening  Marri  country. 

AFBIOA. 
Cr^mazy,  Laurent. — Notes  snr  Madagadcar.  Paris  (Berger»Lcvrault  &  CSe.)  j 
8vc>.,  pp.  25.     (DuJau :  price  1«.) 

This  separate  publication  of  an  article  in  the  '  Revue  Maritimo  ot  Colonmle  * 
contains  various  tojxjgraphical  and  hydroj^phical  details  of  RjiuMtok  B«y, 
Baly  Bay,  Morondava,  the  territories  of  Yinangue,  King  of  Simauandrafoa 
Soumouga,  King  of  MoromW,  Laymcrize,  King  of  Tulear,  Refiaille, 
Salar  (now  succeeded  by  hia  brother,  Liahetafique),  Lafealam,  Kin^  of  Ii 
and  Langrano,  Ibiirt,  Kinc:  of  Ampalaze,  'rsifany.  King  of  Capo  St.  Mai 
Befandiic,  King  .of  Ciuamboules  Bight,  Andrahoume  Creek,  Banonfoata; 
and  various  points  on  the  east  coast  (the  rivers  Rarafan^ne,  Mahit^sy  or 
kara,  Masindrauo  or  Mananzary,  Bangazavaka  or  Mahcla,  and  Mabanoro) 
also  short  notes  on  the  Sakalavea  of  the  western  coast,  as  to  the  right  t» 
'*  Arehar"  (an  undefined  royalty  ]iayable  out  of  the  goods  of  any  one  dyinz  in 
the  king's  territory),  customs  of  war,  justice,  marriage,  religion,  &c.,  cnncluuicg 
witb  obsen^atious  ou  tribal  origin,  and  the  text  of  a  concession  in  1861  by  Ku^ 
Laymerizo  of  lands  on  the  west  coast  to  Captains  Rosiers  and  Bellanger. 

Girard,   B, — Souvenirs  de   TExpedition  de  Tunisie,     Paris  (Berger-LevraaU  tt 
Cie.) :  1883, 8vo,,  pp.  50.    (Dulau :  price  2>,) 


f^i 


Bohfs,  Gerhard.— Expedition  zur  Erforschung  der  Libyschen  Wiiste  untcr  deo 
Auspicien  Sr.  Hoheit  dea  Chcdivo  vou  Aegyptea  Israail  im  Winter  167.'J-74 
aufigePLlbrt  vou  Gerhard  Bohlls.  III.  Geologic  und  Palaeontologie,  beatlcit^trcii 
K.  A.  Zittel,  Mitgleid  der  Expedition.  Parts  1  and  2.  Cassel  (Fischer) :  J^SS, 
4to. ;  Part  1,  pp.  cxlvii.  and  237,  map,  illustrations,  and  plates  i. — xxxv,;  P«t2, 
l>p.  59,  plates  i. — viiJ.     (WiUiama  &  Noryaie:  price  10/.  and  21  12«.) 


the  following  year.  Prof.  Ziirel,  with  the  assistance  of  various  sj>eciali»ts.  mw 
commences  the  iliscussiun  of  the  geological  and  pala'ontoloi:ical  resiili*,  under 
the  secondary  title  of  *  Beilniege  zur  Geologie  und  Palaeontologie  der  Lihyxben 
Wiist*!  und  der  nngrenzeuiitn  Gebiete  von  Aegypt«n.'  He  hirnst'lf  cuiivnlnuw 
the  geological  section  in  two  chapters,  one  on  the  Sahara,  the  other  on  tbe 
Libyan  desert  i)ro|iGr,  the  introductory  jwrtions  ol  which  conUiin  nnich 
material  of  interest  as  regards  jihysical  geoRruphy,  njid  also  c«ipioUR  reffrenoti  in 
the  literature  on  the  latter  area.     Ho  is  decidedly  of  opinion  tb       '  '>.' 

diluvial  period  the  b'abara,  as  well  ss  part  of  the  southern  and  i;  i- 

ranean,  was  continental;  and  that  the  by  jx  (thesis  of  a  diluvim  .^:iu;im-.s..iis 
not  substantiated  either  by  its  geological  constnjction  or  by  its  superficial 
phenomena.  The  bulk  of  the  work  is  occujiied  by  the  palaoniological  »«lioa, 
which  contains  pajx5rs  by  Scheuk,  Fuch.s,  Mayer-Ermar,  .Schwager,  Dela  llarpr. 
Pratz,  and  Lonol.  Tho  iLlustiations  (non-pala.'ontf>logical)  consist  of  view*  of 
the  Jebel  Lifte  near  Gassr  Backel,  from  the  east,  the  Jebel  Onini-ul-I{i.>iru)icm 
in  the  Chargch  Oasis^  (drawn  by  Schweinfurth),  and  the  Jebel  El-Guan  Abu 
Said  near  Farafrah,  'The  map  is  geological,  scale  1 : 1,300,000,  and  coven  tiw 
Libyan  and  Arabian  deserts, 

AMEEIOA. 

Corte-Real. — Les  Corte-Real  ct  leurs  Voyages  au  Nouvean-Monde.  d'aprbi  d« 
dociuuents  nouvcaus  ou  pcu  conniis,  tires  des  Archives  de  Lisbonne  et  do  Modbr. 
Snivi  du  texte  inedit  d*un  r&itde  la  troisifcme  exp(4dition  de  Caspar  Corte-ll«l,«i 
d*une  important*  Carte  nautique  Portugaise  de  I'annee  1502  reproduite  i^i  pwi 


NEW  BOOKS.  679 

la  premiere  fois.  M^moire  lu  k  rAcad^mie  des  Inscriptions  et  Belles-Lettres  dans 
aa  stance  du  1"  Juin,  1883,  par  Henry  Harrisse.  Paris  (Ernest  Leroax) :  1883, 
text  large  8vo.,  pp.  xii.  &  272,  frontispiece,  map  in  separate  case,  fo.  (  Williams 
&  Norgate  :  price  1/.  15s.) 

This  work  forms  iio.  III.  of  the  "  l^ueil  de  Voyages  et  do  Documents  pour 
servir  ii  THistoiro  de  la  Gdographie  depuis  le  XllI®  jusqu*k  la  fin  du  XVI« 
Sikile  **  published  under  the  direction  of  MM.  Ch.  Schefer  and  Henri  Cordier, 
of  which  the  prior  volumes  have  been  noticed  in  our  *  Proceedings.'  Mr. 
Harrisse,  whose  many  former  emdite  publications  on  the  early  voyages  to 
America  have  been  before  the  geographical  and  antiquarian  world  since  1865 
(and  who  now  has  in  the  press  another  extensive  history  of  Columbus,  based  on 
documents  not  before  published  and  contained  in  the  archives  of  Genoa,  Savona, 
Seville,  and  Madrid),  now  reproduces  and  analyses  all  evidence  obtainable  on 
the  family  and  travels  of  Graspar  Corte-Real,  a  Portuguese  of  noble  birth  who  in 

1500  sailed  from  Lisbon  with  lettcrs>patent  from  King  Manoel,  and  returned  in 
safety  after  visiting  populous  and  verdant  western  lands.  His  second  journey, 
undertaken  early  in  the  following  year,  was  not  so  fortunate  ;  for  though  two  of 
his  ships  returned  to  port,  the  third,  with  the  Commander,  was  never  again 
seen.  His  brother  Miguel,  after  waiting  for  five  months,  equipped  three  ships 
and  started  to  search  for  the  lost  explorer, — only  to  share  his  unknown  fate  ; 
and  a  third  expedition  sent  by  the  King  of  Portugal  could  obtain  no  trace  of 
the  missing  ones.  There  has  hitherto  been  much  obscurity  both  as  to  the 
region  supposed  to  have  been  visited  or  discovered  by  Graspar  Cort«-Real,  and  as 
to  his  family  and  life, — the  only  known  evidence  being  a  letter  to  his  brothers  in 

1501  from  Pasquilago,  the  Venetian  ambassador,  published  at  Vicenza  in  1507 
in  the  collection  of  travels  "  Paesi  nouamente  retrouati,"  and  two  vague  Portu- 
guese portulans  of  an  early  date  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Trustworthy 
genealogical  particulars  of  the  Corte-lieal  family  have  now  however  been  sup- 
plied by  letters-patent  in  the  national  archives  of  the  Torre  do  Toipbo  at  Lisbon, 
some  not  before  published  j  and  a  new  and  interesting  account  of  the  third 
voyage  has  been  afforded  by  the  discovery  in  the  archives  of  the  Este  family  of 
a  relation  sent  by  Alberto  Cantino,  a  Portuguese  correspondent  of  Hercules, 
Duke  of  Ferrara,  and  who  actually  witnessed  the  return  to  Lisbon  of  the  second 
of  Caspar's  ships  on  the  11th  Oct.,  1501.  The  Duke  of  Ferrara  charged 
Cantino  to  obtain  a  map  of  the  voyi^es  of  the  Portuguese  and  Spaniards  beyond 
the  seas,  and  the  latter  accordingly  had  one  prepared  by  a  Lisbon  geographer 
and  sent  it  to  the  Duke  in  the  following  year.  This,  according  to  Mr.  Harrisse, 
the  most  important  cartographic  document  of  the  sixteenth  century  now  known, 
has  hitherto  remained  unnoticed  in  the  private  collection  of  the  Dukes  of 
Ferrara  at  Modena ;  but  he  has  now  obtained  a  perfect  tracing  of  the  section 
showing  the  transatlantic  discoveries  made  to  1502  inclusively,  and  the  map 
accompanying  this  volume  consists  of  a  coloured  fac-simile  of  that  ])art,  showing 
the  eastern  New  World  and  the  European  and  part  of  the  African  western 
coasts.  The  text  of  Cantino's  letter  accompanying  the  original  map  is  also  given, 
as  establishing  the  authenticity  and  fixing  the  date  of  this  imi)ortant  document. 

The  editor  observes  that,  apart  from  the  special  interest  attaching  t«.)  this 
planisphere  as  illustrating  the  voyages  of  Cortc-Ileal,  geographers  will  not  only 
recognise  in  its  contours  the  prototype  of  the  delineations  ot  the  new  continent 
which  are  to  be  found  in  all  the  editions  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  published 
in  Italy,  Germany,  and  France  to  the  middle  of  the  Kith  century,  but  will  see 
with  surprise  that  the  littoral  regions  of  the  Floridan  peninsula  and  of  the 
eastern  part  of  the  United  States  were  discovered,  explored,  and  named  by  navi- 
gators of  whose  names  and  nationalities  we  are  ignorant,  at  least  a  dozen  years 
before  the  oldest  recorded  expedition  to  those  regions. 

It  is  considered  from  the  evidence,  that  Miguel  Corte-Real  was  lost  on  the 
coast  of  Newfoundland,  or  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

lufttrelles,  — . — Un  Parisien  dans  les  Antilles.  Saint-Thomas,  Puerto-Rico,  Lc 
Havane,  La  Vie  de  Province  sous  les  tropiques.  Paris  (Plon) :  1883,  12mo., 
pp.  345,  illustrations.    {Dulau  :  price  5s.) 

A  popularly  written  account  of  West  Indian  life  and  aspects,  chiefly 
referring  to  Cuba. 


680 


KEW  BOOKS. 


ABCTIO. 

Mimk,  Jens. — Navigatio  Sept^ntrionalis.   Med  Indledning,  Noter,  og  Kort.  Faa  nj 
iidgiven  af  P.  I^aurldscn.     Copenbar^en  (Gyldcndalske  Bo;;IiHndels   Furl.i^j  ;  F,j 
Hegel  &  Son):  1883,  small  8vo.,  pp.  hi.  and  58,  chart  nnd  photolithogmph*. 

This  liigbly  iutcrestiiig  little  work  contains  a  reprint  of  Jeuu  MiinkVl 
•Navigatio  fjcptentrionalis/  with  a  biographical  and  historical  inlrt><l>Jcti«»ii  wnlf 
explanatory  notes,  aiv'  is  a  very  importaQt  addition  to  Arctic  literature.  lli«| 
map  of  Hiidsir»n'-«  Bay,  and  Muak's  sketch  of  his  winter  quarters,  arta  reproduced  1 
hy  photolitb'  j;ra[tliy  from  the  original  edition,  published  at  Copenhagen  in  I 
1624,  and  a  .cimen  sheet  of  the  MS.,  which  is  still  preserved  in  the  Ubrar/i 
of  the  Copen  igen  Uuiversity,  is  given  by  the  siimo  proceas.  Tht?re  i.s  also  » I 
modem  chai  of  Hudson's  Bay,  identifying  the  names  used  by  Munk,  and ' 
containing  an  inset  plan  of  the  mouth  of  the  Churchill  river  from  Bobeon'* 
17/2  map. 

The  author  renmrks  that  though  Jens  Munk  is  the  only  Dane  whose  nBni« 
ifi  associated  with  the  early  history  of  the  North-Wcst  Passage,  the  story  of  his 
romantic  and  adventurous  career  is  by  no  means  so  well  known  as  it  desenres 
to  be.  The  main  facts  of  his  disastroa'j  voyage  to  Hudson's  Bay  are  indeed 
matters  of  history,  but  as  he  did  not  give  the  latitude  of  his  winter  quarters, 
the  exact  locality  has  never  been  fixed  with  certainty.  The  evidence  on  thti 
point  is  therefore  discussed  at  some  length  in  the  introduction,  and  with  ali»- 
factory  results.  It  is  pointed  out  tJiat  in  M.  Jeremie's  *  Relation  de  la  Bale  de 
Hudson'  is  a  circumstantial  account  of  the  discovery  by  some  natives  of  a 
number  of  bodies  and  a  cannon  at  the  mouth  of  the  Churchill  river;  and  thi* 
was  afterwards  eonfinned  by  the  English  engineer  Joseph  Robson,  who  states 
that  during  the  erection  of  Prince  of  Wales  Fort  a  CAnnon  with  the  znonogrun 
of  King  Chrifitiaii  IV.  was  found  in  a.  cove  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  and 
that  some  huts  containing  human  bones  were  discovered  at  tbe  same  place.  In 
Itobson's  'Account  of  Hudson's  Bay '  occm-s  tbe  following  passage ; — "  Monk,  who 
was  sent  by  the  King  of  Denmark  in  1019,  wintered  in  Churchill  or  Seal  river; 
but  I  rather  think  in  Churchill  river,  a  brass  gun  being  taken  up  there  some 
years  after  Hudson  and  Button  had  dieoovered  the  Strait  and  Bay."  Captain 
•Smith,  of  the  California,  also  points  out^  in  1746-7,  that  besides  the  disajvery 
of  the  gun,  it  is  known  that  the  crews  of  the  Danish  ships  found  plenty  of 
wood,  and  tliat  while  there  were  no  trees  in  kt.  63'^  20',  where  Muuk's  winter 
harbour  had  been  placed  by  various  authors,  the  country  about  the  Churchill 
river  was  at  that  time  well  wooded.  Tbe  courses  steered  by  Munk,  and  his 
tojwgraphical  descriptions,  also  point  to  the  some  locality ;  and  tb*>  Chuichill 
was  commonly  called  the  "  Danish  "  river  as  least  as  late  as  the  ..."ddle  of  tbe 
18th  century. 

Much  light  is  al.«!0  thrown  on  the  circumstiincea  attending  Munk*s  death  in 
1628;  and  the  misleading  statements  of  Isaac  De  la  Peyrere,  which  have  been 
generally  accepted  as  authentic,  are  satisfactorily  disproved.  He  stated 
that  shortly  before  his  death,  Munk  was  appointed  to  command  another  expe- 
dition for  the  discovery  of  a  North- West  Passage,  and  that  on  the  eve  of  bit 
departure  the  king  reproached  him  for  his  mismanagement  in  losing  his  ship  on 
the  former  voyage.  To  this  Munk  made  a  sharp  reply,  and  ine  king,  losing Im 
temper,  struck  him  with  his  cane.  The  unfurtunate  navigator  felt  this  indig- 
nity so  much  that  he  took  to  his  bed  and  died  ten  days  later  of  a  broken  heart. 
Apart  from  the  improbability  of  one  of  tbe  king's  most  trusted  aiid  osoful 
officers  being  sent  on  such  a  voyage  so  soon  after  tbo  outbreak  of  the  **  Thirty 
Years'  War,  it  is  conclusively  shown  that  he  was  actually  serving  in  the  fleet  as 
rear-admiral  only  a  few  days  before  his  death,  at  Stralsund,  where  he  greatly 
distinguished  himself  by  his  bravery,  and  it  is  most  probable  that  ho  died  on 
b^iard  his  ship  in  the  Baltic  Sea.  That  a  second  expedition  to  Hudson's  Bny 
or  "New  Denmark"  had  been  contemplated,  is  proved  by  existing  documents, 
but  it  was  to  have  sailed  in  the  spring  of  1*321,  st:vcn  years  before  the  date  find 
by  De  la  Peyrfcre,  and  was  probably  abandoued  l)ecauise  Munk's  health  wai 
broken  by  the  terrible  sufFerings  ho  had  so  lately  undergone,  and  everylliitjg 
tends  to  show  that  he  was  always  held  in  the  highest  favour  and  eateem'by  bis 


NEW  BOOKS.  681 

sovereign.  The  Journal  itself  is  one  of  the  most  touchiog  docaments  ever 
penned,  and  the  sufieringa  of  Munk  and  his  crews,  and  the  gradual  death  of 
sixty-one  persons  before  the  eyes  of  the  three  survivors,  form  a  tragic  chapter 
in  the  history  of  Arctic  exploration.  His  book,  however,  is  full  of  manly 
resignation,  and,  although  himself  reduced  to  the  last  extremity,  he  continued  to 
tend  and  encourage  the  sick  and  dying  until  he  was  no  longer  able  to  crawl 
about.  His  subsequent  escape  and  voyage  to  Europe  with  only  two  meu  is  one 
of  the  most  extraordinary  feats  of  seamanship  and  endurance  on  record,  and  he 
well  deserves  an  honourable  place  among  the  piJneers  of  the  North- West 


Steenstmp,  Japetus. — Zenl'emes  Beiser  i  Norden.  En  kritiwV  rumstilling  af  det 
sidste  tiaars  vigtige  bidrag  til  forstaaelsen  af  Yenetianerne  Zei  s  ophold  i  Nordea 
fra  1391  til  1405.  (Copenhagen  (Thieies  Bogtrykkeri) :  lfeo3,  Svor^  pp.  160, 
appendices,  maps,  and  facsimiles.  ^--^ 

This  work  (published  separately  out  of  the  •Aarb0ger  for  Nordisk  Old- 
kyndighed  og  Historic '  for  1883),  is  a  very  elaborate  critical  review  of  Mr.  R. 
H.  Major's  *  Voyages  of  the  Zeni,'  *  Zeniernes  Reise  til  Norden  *  by  Frederik 
Eranip,  and  the  papers  on  Zenp's  Frinlanda  in  vol.  xlix.  of  the  R.  G.  Society's 
*  JoumaL'  The  original  map  of  the  Zeni  is  reproduced  on  a  small  scale,  with  a 
facsimile  of  the  part  containing  "Frisland"  placed  side  by  side  with  a  litho- 
graph of  Gunnlaugsson's  Iceland,  part  of  Johannes  Meyer's  maps  of  North 
Friesland  from  Dauckwerth's  Description  of  Slesvig,  and  &csimiles  of 
**  Engronelant "  from  the  map  of  the  Zeni  and  from  Donis's  map.  The  appen- 
dices contain  a  critical  notice  of  Baron  Nordenskiold's  dissertation  *  Om  Brodema 
Zenos  Resor,'  &c.,*  which  Professor  Steenstrup  was  not  aware  of  until  his  own 
treatise  was  almost  printed,  and  eighteen  {joges  of  elaborately  worked  out- 
explanatory  notes. 

Professor  Steenstrup  entirely  disagrees  with  Mr.  Major's  identification  of 
Zeno's  Frislanda  with  the  Fsaroe  Islands,  and  contends  that  while  such  names 
as  Suderofjord,  Strdmo,  Portland,  and  Andefjord  are  common  to  other  northern 
countries,  their  positions  on  the  "  Frisland  "  of  the  Zeno  map  do  not  correspond 
with  the  modem  map  of  the  Fceroe  Islands.  Thus,  he  says,  "  Andefort"  is  on 
the  north-western  side  of  Zeno's  "  Frisland,"  but  belongs  to  the  eastern  group  of 
the  Faeroes ;  and  "  Streme  "  is  far  down  on  the  south-east  of  Frisland,  while  the 
modem  StromS  is  the  largest  of  the  northernmost  group  of  the  Fieroe  Islands. 
But  he  considers  that  the  greatest  error  of  those  who  adopt  the  "Faeroe 
hypothesis"  is  to  suppose  that  such  a  group  of  precipitous  rocky  islands 
separated  by  deep  sounds,  could  possibly  have  been  mistaken  for,  and  r&* 
presen^^'j}  as,  a  sin^^le  large  island,  by  so  experienced  a  seaman  as  Zeno 
undoubtedly  was.  He  agrees  with  Admiral  Irminger  that  the  "  Frisland "  of 
the  Zeno  map  is  Iceland,  but  he  goes  a  step  further  than  this,  and  brings 
forward  elaborate  arguments  to  show  that  Zeno's  "  Island "  is  also  Iceland,^- 
quoting  various  instances  in  which  a  single  country  or  island  appears  twice 
over,  under  slightly  different  names  and  outlines,  in  some  of  the  old  maps. 

Professor  Steenstrup  then  proceeds  to  give  his  reasons  for  agreeing  with 
Herr  F.  Krarup  (see  R.G.S. '  Proceedings,'  1879,  p.  152),  that  the  "  Frislanda  "  of 
the  Zeno  nar.ative  is  neither  Iceland  nor  Faeroe,  but  the  modem  "North 
Friesland"  in  the  western  part  of  the  Duchy  of  Slesvig.  "Frislanda,"  he 
observes,  where  a  ship  bound  to  England  or  Holland  in  the  middle  ages  had 
been  wrecked  after  driving  about  for  days  in  fogs  and  storms,  mi«ht  be 
naturally  looked  for  in  some  part  of  the  long  stretch  of  the  coasts  of  Holland, 
Hanover,  Holstein,  and  Slesvig,  which  belongs  to  the  province  of  Friesland. 
Not  only  does  the  name  "  Frislanda  "  bear  out  this  hypothesis,  but  the  character 
of  the  country  and  people  are  in  harmony  with  Zeno's  description,  while  an 
historical  personage  as  nearly  corresponding  to  "  Zichmni  **  as  Earl  Sinclair  or 
the  powerful  Sigmund  or  Simon  of  Sudero,  is  to  be  found  in  Heinrich  von 
Sighem  or  Sighme,  the  Marshal  of  Holstein. 


*  See  ante,  p.  372. 
No.  XL— Not.  1883.]  2  y 


€82  NEW  BOOKS. 

Professor  Steenstrup  goes  on  to  deal  with  the  discrepancies  between  the 
"  Engronelaut "  of  the  Zeno  map  and  the  Greenland  of  the  present  day.  After 
a  careful  comparison  of  the  Zeno  map  and  test,  he  comes  to  the  conclusion  that 
the  "  Engronclant "  which  has  for  centuries  been  accepted  by  geographers  as  a 
more  or  less  faithful  representation  of  Greenland,  is  nothing  more  than  the 
"  Eiderstedt"  peninsula,  and  he  brings  forward  a  mass  of  evidence  in  support  of 
this  theory.  He  absolutely  refuses  to  admit  that  the  Zeai  brothers  ever  went 
to  Greenland,  or  that  their  voyage  in  the  slightest  degree  affects  the  question  of 
a  pre-Columbian  discovery  of  America,  and  he  summarises  his  analysis  of  the 
whole  subject  into  the  five  following  conclusions: — 

1.  That  the  "  Frisland  "  of  the  Zeni  map  is  Iceland,  and  certainly  not  the 
Faroes. 

2.  That  the  "  Frislanda"  of  the  Zeni  narrative  is  North  Friesland,  or  "  Strand** 
Friesland. 

3.  That  the  "  Engronelant "  of  the  Zeni  map  is  certainly  not  Greenland,  bat 
a  North-Frisian  marsh-land,  probably  the  "  Eiderstedt "  peninsula. 

4.  That  the  "  Engronelant  **  of  the  Zeni  narrative  has  nothing  to  do  with 
Greenland,  but,  so  far  as  the  mosaic  of  the  legend  can  be  pieced  together,  is 
made  up  of  reminiscences  from  Iceland  and  from  the  North  Frisian  marsh 
county,  while  nothing  characteiistic  of  Greenland  is  to  be  found  in  it. 

5.  That,  consequently,  the  Zeni  brothers  never  went  to  Greenland,  and  still 
less  explored  both  the  east  and  west  coasts  of  that  continent ;  and  that  all  the 
assumptions  that  they  had  any  knowledge  of  various  parts  of  the  coasts  of 
America  150  years  before  C!olumbus  are  without  foundation. 

AUSTRALIA. 

Bastian,  A. — Zur  Eenntniss  Hawaii's.  Nachtrage  und  Erganzungen  zn  den  Insel- 
grujipen  in  Oceanien.  Berlin  (Diimmler's  Verlagsbuchhandlung,  Harrwits  & 
Gossman) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  128.    (  WUliarM  &  Norgate :  price  4s.) 

Of  ethnological  and  mythological  interest  exclusively.    A  plan  of  the  Maori 
'     Mythology  compiled  by  John  White  (Napier,  New  Zealand,  1878)  is  reproduced 
at  the  end. 

GENERAL. 

Avalle,  E. — Notices  sur  les  Colonies  Anglaises.  Paris  (Berger-Levrault  &  Cie.) : 
1883,  8vo.,  pp.  viii.  &  696,  map.    {Dulau :  price  lOs.) 

Commencing  with  geographical  descriptions  of  the  numerous  British 
Colonies,  this  carefully  compiled  work  proceeds  to  discuss  their  history,  popu- 
lation, government,  judicial,  financial,  commercial,  industrial  and  other 
economic  aspects  individually ;  the  author's  aim  being  to  give  the  French  public 
a  correct  understanding  of  English  possessions  beyond  the  seas,  and  of  their 
physical  and  political  bases. 

Bitter's  geographisch-statistisches  Lexikon  uber  die  Erdtheile,  Lander,  Meere, 
Buchten,  Hafen,  Seen,  Fliisse,  Inseln,  Gebirge,  Staaten,  Stadte,  Flecken,  Dorfer, 
Weiler,  Bader,  Bergwerke,  Kanale,  Eisenbahnen,  &c.  Siebeute  Auflage,  unter 
der  Redaction  von  Dr.  Heinrich  Lagai.  II.  Sechszehnte  (Schluss-)  Liefenmg. 
Leipzig  (Wigand) :  1883,  8vo.    (Dulau  :  price  Is.) 

This  number  completes  the  7th  edition  of  the  standard  work  above  named, 
occupying  two  large  8vo.  volumes  with  910  and  992  pages  respectively,  in 
double  column  of  minute  but  very  legible  print,  the  cost  of  the  whole  work 
being  11.  10a.  The  6th  edition  was  published  in  1874,  under  the  editorship  of 
Dr.  Otto  Henne-Am  Rhyn. 


(    683    ) 

NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  b.g.8.) 

WORLD. 
3roichmaim,  J. — Erdkarte  in  Merkators  Frojektion.     8  Blatter.     Metz,  Lang. 
Price  10«.    iDtOau.) 

EUROPE. 

Central -Enropa,    Neue  Ueberaichtskarte  von ,    reap,    der    oesterreichisch- 

nngarischen  Monarchie.  Scale  1 :  750,000  or  10*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Herau^egeben  vom  k.  k.  militar-geograph.  Institute,  Wien.  Lief.  3.  Price  7«.  Qd. 
{Dulau.) 

Deutschen  Beichs,  Karte  des— — .  Heransgegeben  von  der  kartogr.  Abtheilung 
der  K5aigl.  Preuss.  Landes-Aufnahme  1883.  Scale  1:100,000  or  1-3  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.  Sheets: — 150.  Goldberg.  211.  Dannenberg.  241. 
Havelberg.  242.  Nen-Ruppin.  266.  Btendal  291.  Burg  a.  d,  Ihle.  Price 
1b.  6d.  each.     {Dulau.) 

Franee. — Carte  de  France,  dress^  par  le  Service  Vicinal  par  ordre  de  M.  le  Ministre 
de  rint^rieur.  Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Paris, 
Hachette  et  Cie.,  1883.  Sheets :— XIV.— 12.  Evreux.  XV.— 12,  les  Andelys ; 
XV.— 13,  Mantes.  XV.— 14,  Dreux.  XXIII.— 13,  Oommercy.  XXIII.— 14, 
Vaucouleurs.  XXIV.— 11,  Thionville.  XXIV.— 12,  Meta.  Price  7d.  each  sheet. 
iDuIau.) 

Isohia.— Carta  topografica  dell'  isola .  Scale  1 :  20,000  or  3 '6  inches  to  a  geo- 
graphical mile.    Firenze.    Price  I5.    {Dulau.) 

Mont  Blanc,  Le ,  et  la  valine  de  Chamonix.  Carte  de  1 :  80,000  or  1  geo- 
graphical mile  to  an  inch,  d'aprds  les  cartes  des  Etats-majors  italien,  fran9ais  et 
Suisse.    Chamb^ry.    {DtUau.) 

Hordsee-Kiiste,  Ueberslchts-Karte  der ,  von  der  Elbe  bis  zur  Ems.     Scale 

1:400,000  or  5*5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Von  L.  Halenbeck.  Bremen 
von  Halem.    Price  1«.    {Dulau.) 

Polen,   Reymann'sche  Earte  von ,  heransgegeben  von  Konigl.  Preuss.  Gr. 

Generalstabe.  Nachstehende  44  Sectionen  der  Reymann'schen  Karte :  — B,  C,  E, 
F,  F  1,  H,  J,  J  1,  K,  L,  L 1,  M,  N,  N  1,  0,  P,  P 1,  Q,  R,  R  1,  32,  33,  47,  48,  49, 
63,  64,  65,  65a,  656,  65c,  79,  80,  81,  81a,  816,  81c,  96,  97,  98,  98a,  986,  98c,  114, 
welche  die  russische  Grenze  von  Memel  bis  Ealisch  und  den  sich  ostlich  anschlies- 
senden  UTieil  von  Polen  umfassen,  sind  soeben  in  ganz  ueuer  Ausgabe  und  vor- 
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1«.  each  sheet.    (2?uZau.) 

Pyrenees  Centrales,  avec  les  grands  massifs  du  versant  espagnol,  par  Fr.  Schrader. 
{Scale  1:100,000  or  1*3  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Grav^  par  Erhard,  le 
models  du  terrain  par  I'auteur.  With  a  pamphlet  entitled  'Note  sur  la  Carte 
des  Pyren^  Centrales  Fran9aises  et  Espagooles.'    Paris,  1883.    (Dtdau.) 

The  author  of  this  map,  M.  Schrader,  having  in  1874  published,  in  '  I'An- 
nuaire  du  Club  Alpin  Fran9ais,'  a  map  of  the  environs  of  Mont-Perdu,  on  the 
scale  of  1 :  40,000,  and  agam  in  1878  a  map  on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000  of  the 

2  T  2 


684  NEW  MAPS. 

same  district,  aided  by  a  grant  from  the  MinlBter  of  Public  Instrnction,  ander- 
took  to  extend  his  survey  of  the  Central  Pyrenees,  and  as  the  result  of  his 
operations  has  produced  a  map  on  six  sheets  on  the  scale  of  1 :  100,000,  oom- 
prising  an  area  of  2442  square  miles,  extending  in  latitude  from  42^  20'  K.  to 
42°  53'  N.,  and  in  longitude  from  P  10'  W.  of  Paris  to  2°  40'  W.  of  the 
same  meridian.  The  mountains  are  shown  by  a  combination  of  hill-shading  and 
contour  lines  100  metres  apart.  In  his  survey  M.  Schrader  was  partly  assisted 
by  MM.  Albert  and  L^once  Lourde,  professional  engineers.  A  great  portion, 
however,  of  the  work  seems  to  have  been  done  by  the  author  with  an  iostnunent 
of  his  own  invention,  which  he  calls  the  **  Orc^^raphe,"  and  which  appears  from 
the  description  given  to  be  a  modification  of  the  plane-table.  Only  one  sheet 
of  this  map  has  yet  been  published ;  another  is  nearly  ready,  and  the  author 
hopes  to  have  the  other  four  complete  by  the  end  of  next  year.  The  present 
sheet  is  beautifully  engraved,  and  only  contains  such  names  as  are  necessary. 
The  heights  of  all  the  principal  peaks  are  given  in  metres,  but  the  contour  lines 
are  so  distinctly  marked  that  no  difiSculty  would  be  found  in  determining  the 
elevation  of  any  other  portion. 

ASIA. 

Indian  Gtovernment  Surveys  :— 

Oeneral  Haps: — India  1882.    Scale  127  miles  to  an  inch.    9th  edition. — 
Indian  Atlas,  Quarter  Sheets.    8  N.E.  Parts  of  District  Dera  Ghazi  Khan,  Baha- 
walpur  (Native  State).    31  S.W.  Parts  of  Districts   Sirsa  and    Bahawulpnr 
(Native  State).    31  S.W.  Parts  of  Districts  Sirsa  and  Bahawulpur  (Native 
State,  Punjab).    Bickaneer  (Native  State,  Kajputana  Agency).    63  N.W.  Parts 
of  Bhopal,  Gwalior  (Sindhia),  Indore  (Holkar),  and    Dewas  (Native  States, 
Central  India  Agency).    66  S.W.  Parts  of  Bijnor,  Kumaun  and  British  GarhwaL 
(N.W.  Provinces).    4  miles  to   an   inch. — Bombay  Presidency : — Trigono- 
metrical Branch,  Survey  of  India :  Guzerat.    Sheet  17,  Section  2.    Seasons  187^ 
80  and  1880-81.    Parts  of  Buls^  and  Pardi  T41ukds  of  the  Surat  Collectoiate. 
2  inches  to  a  mile. — Guzerat.     Section  No.  7  of  Sheet  No.  49  (D&ng  Forests). 
Parts  of  the  Ding  Derbhavti,  Ding  Shivbdra,  Dang  Gdrvi  and  Ddng  Kirli  States. 
Seasons  1880-81  and  1881-2.     4  inches   to   a  mile. — Guzerat.     Section  Noi 
15  of  Sheet  No.  49  (Ddng  Forests).    Parts  of  the  D4ng  Garvi,  Dang  Amih, 
Ddng  Pimplddevi,  D&ng  Derbhavti,  Dang  Avchar,  and  Ding  Chinchligadad 
States.    Season  1881-82.    4  inches  to  a  mile. — Deccan  and  Konkan  Topographical 
Survey.    Sheets  No.  75  N.W.,  N.E.,  S.W.,  and  S.E,  (4  quarters).    Poods 
Thana  and  Kolaba  Districts,  and  Habsan  and  Bhor   State.    2    inches  to  a 
mile.    Seasons  1879-80-81.    Sheet  18  N.W.,  N.E.,  S.W.,  and  S.E.  (4  quarters). 
Districts  Poona,   Thana,    and    Ahmednagar.     2  inches    to    a    mile.    Seasons 
1877-78,  and  79-80.— Konkan  Topographical  Survey.    Sheet  No.  84.  Island  of 
Bombay  and   District  Thana.    1  mile   to  an  inch.    Season  1880-81.    Sheet 
No.  85.  Island  of  Bombay  and  Districts  Thana  and  Kolaba.     1  mile  to  an 
inch.    Seasori  1880-81. — Konkan  Topographical  Survey.   Sheets  84  N.  and  84  S. 
Island  of  Bombay  and  District  Thana.    2  inches  to  a  mile.     Season  1880- 
81. — Khandesh  and  Bombay  Native  States  Topographical  Survey.    Sheets  Nos. 
21,  23,  24,  34.    Parts  of  Khandesh.    1  inch  to  a  mile.    Seasons  1878-82.- 
Bengal  Presidency:   Punjab  Survey.    Sheet  No.  36.    District  Dera  Ismail 
Khan.    Seasons  1873-74    and  80-81.    1    inch    to    a    mile. — Oudh   Revenne 
Survey.     Sheet  No.  120.    Districts  Hardoi,  Lucknow,  and  Unao.    Season  1860- 
63.    Sheet  No.   154.    District  Partabgarh.    Seasons    1859-61.    1  inch  to  a 
mile. — North- West  Provinces  Survey.    Sheets  Nos.  2  N.E.  and  S.E.    District 
Saharanpur.    2  inches  to  a  mile.    Seasons  1878-79-80. — Gwalior  and  Central 
India  Topographical  Survey.    Sheet  No.  85.  Parts  of  Oodeypore,  Jodhpore  and 


NEW  MAPS.  686 

Sirohee.  No.  91.  Part  of  Jodhpore.  Na  92.  Part  of  Jodhpore.  No.  95.  Parts 
of  Jodhpore  and  Sirohee.  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Seasons  1880-81-82.— Bhopal  and 
Malwa  Topographical  Survey.  Sheet  No.  51.  Parts  of  Banswara,  Partabgarh, 
Jaora,  Gwalior,  Rutlam,  and  Sailana.  No.  53.  Parts  of  Riitlam,  Sailana, 
Banswara,  Kusalgarb,  and  Ehandu.  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1881-82.— 
Bajputana  Topc^raphical  Survey.  Half  Degree  Sheet  No.  XIX.  South.  (Sheets 
Nos.  129»  130»  133,  134).  Parts  of  Jeysulmere,  Jodhpore,  and  Bickaneer.  Balf 
Degree  Sheet  No.  XX.  North.  (Sheets  Nos.  136,  139,  and  140).  Part  of 
Jodhpore.  Half  Degree  Sheet  No.  XX.  South.  (Sheets  Nos.  137,  138,  141, 
142).  Part  of  Jodhpore.  Season  1881-82.  1  inch  to  2  miles.— The  Presi- 
dency Division,  comprising  the  Districts  of  24  Pargands,  Nadiyi,  Jessor,  Ehtilna, 
and  Miirshidabad  under  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  Lieut.-Govemor  of  Bengal.  16 
miles  to  an  inch.  Additions  and  corrections  to  1883. — The  Bardw&n  Division, 
comprising  the  Districts  of  Bardwdn,  Birbhtim,  Banklir&,  Hdgti,  Howrah,  and 
Midnapur  under  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  Lieut.-Govemor  of  Bengal.  16  miles  to 
an  inch.  Additions  and  corrections  to  1883. — The  Dacca  Division,  comprising 
the  Districts  of  Maimansinh,  Dacca,  Faridpur,  and  Bakargay,  under  the  Jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Lieut-Governor  of  Bengal  16  miles  to  an  inch.  Additions  and 
corrections  to  1883. — The  Patna  Divicdon,  comprising  the  Districts  of  Champ&ran, 
S4ran,  MuzaflFarpur,  Darbhanga,  Shdhdbdd,  Patna,  and  Gayd,  under  the  Jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Lieut.-Govemor  of  Bengal.  16  miles  to  an  inch.  Corrections  and 
additions  to  1883. — Bdjsbdhi  and  Euch-Beb&r  Division,  comprising  the  Districts 
of  DArjiling,  Jalpaiguri,  Kuch-Behdr,  Rangpur,  DinAjpur,  Bogra,  Riljshdhi,  and 
Pabnd,  under  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  Lieut.-Govemor  of  Bengal.  16  miles 
to  an  inch.  Additions  and  corrections  to  1883. — The  Bhagalpur  Division  com- 
prising the  Districts  of  Monghyr,  Bhdgalpur,  Pumiah,  Maldab,  and  Santal — 
Parganas  under  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  Lieut.-Goveraor  of  Bengal.  16  miles 
to  an  inch.  Additions  and  corrections  to  1883. — Khasi  and  Garo  Hills  Topo- 
graphical Survey.  Sheet  Nos.  27  and  28  (second  issue).  Part  of  Cachar.  1 
inch  to  2  miles.  Seasons  1867-69  and  1878-79.— Trigonometrical  Branch, 
Survey  of  India.  Jaunsdr  Bdwar.  1  mile  to  an  inch.  Seasons  1874-75-76. 
— Shillong  Sanatarium  (Assam)  Topographical  Survey.  24  inches  to  1  mile. 
Seasons  1878-81.-  Sheets  Noe.  2,  3,  5,  6,  8,  9,  11,  12.  Kohat  City  and 
Cantonment  (Punjab).  12  inches  to  1  mile.  1883.  —  Jaora  and  environs. 
Central  India  Agency.  Season  1881-82.  6  inches  to  1  mile.  Bdnswdra  and 
environs,  Rajputana.  6  inches  to  a  mile.  1883. — Madras  Presidency: — 
Mysore  Topographical  Survey.  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Season  1881-82.  Sheets 
23  and  24.  Parts  of  Kadur  and  Shimoga  Districts.  —  Trans  -  Frontier 
Surveys  :  —  North-East  Frontier  Topographical  Survey.  1  inch  to  2  miles. 
Sheets  Nos.  51,  52,  53,  and  55  (on  one).  Parts  of  Sylhet  and  Hill  Tipperah. 
Seasons  1879  to  82.  Sheets  Nos.  86,  90,  91,  92,  93,  95,  96,  97.  Parts  of 
Burmah  and  Manipur.  Seasons  1881-82. — North-East  Frontier  Topographical 
Survey.  2  inches  to  a  mile.  Sheets  Nos.  2,  4,  5,  6,  8.  Seasons  1877  to  82. 
Paris  of  South  Sylhet. — Northern  Afghanistan.  1  inch  to  a  mile.  Sheets 
Nos.  1,  2,  3, 4,  5,  6,  7.  1883.  Sheet  No.  8.  1  inch  to  2  miles  (2  parts).  1883. 
— Biluchistan  Topographical  Survey.  Seasons  1880-81-82.  Plan  of  Sibi,  Bilu- 
chistan.  1  inch  to  500  feet.  —  Turkestan  and  the  Countries  between  the 
British  and  the  Russian  Dominions  in  Asia.  82  miles  to  an  inch.  4  sheets. 
6th  edition.  1883.  With  Index. — Indices: — Index  to  the  Sheets  of  the 
Garo,  Khasi,  and  Naga  Hills,  and  North-East  Frontier  Topographical  Survey, 
on  the  scales  of  i  inch,  J  inch,  and  1  inch  to  a  mile.  1883. — ^Index  Chart  to 
Surveys  of  Northern  Afghanistan,  published  on  1  inch  and  }  inch  scales.    1883. 


686  NEW  MAPS. 

Falestine. — Carte  de  la  Palestine  et  da  Liban,  dress^  par  L.  Thuillier.  Scale 
1 :  500,000  or  6*8  geographical  miles  to  aa  inch.  Hacbette,  PartB.  Price  8«. 
CDtdau.) 

Siberia. — Carte  de  la  Partie  M^ridionale  de  la  Province  Litorale  de  la  Siberia. 
Dre8s4e  en  1883  par  Mr.  Yenukoff.  Scale  1  :  2,500,000  or  34 '4  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Institut  Gtographique  de  Paris.  Bevae  de  G^(^raphie, 
dirig^  par  Mr.  L.  Drapejron.  Librairie  Ch.  Delagrave,  Paris.  Sept.  1883. 
(Didau.S 

Tong-King.— Song  Kai  Delta  (Tong-King).  Scale  1  ;  606,880  or  6*9  geographical 
miles  to  an  inch.  Lithographed  at  the  Intelligence  Branch,  War  Office,  London. 
Sept.  1883. 

On  this  map  are  shown  enlarged  plans  of  the  towns  and  forts  of  Ha-Noi, 
Nin-Binh,  Hn^  Hai,  Dzuong,  and  the  citadel  and  town  of  Nam-Dinh. 

AFKICA. 

Tunisie. — Carte  d'ane  reconnaissance  dans  la  r^on  centrale  de  la ,  ez^cnt^  m 

1882  et  1883  par  M.  Julien  Poinsot.    Scale  1 :  400,000  or  5'5  geographical  miles 
to  an  inch.    Paris.    QDulau.)  . 

CHARTS. 
Admiralty. — 

CHABTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  493.  Sout^  America,  east  coast: — Approaches  to  Monte  Video.  2611. 
Tartary : — Strelok  bay  to  St.  Vladimir.  2347.  Japan  :— -Nipon,  Eiusiu,  and  Sikok 
island.  8d.  Red  sea :— Sheet  4.  8e.  Bed  sea :— Sheet  5.  143.  Red  sea :— Jebd 
Teir  to  Perim  island.  214.  Pacific  ocean: — Solomon  islands.  1033.  Anstnlia, 
west  coast : — Champion  bay  to  cape  Naturaliste.  1034.  Australia,  south  coast: — 
Cape  Naturaliste  to  King  George  sound  and  Doubtful  island  bay.  2149.  Eastern 
archipelago: — Caspar  and  Banka  straits.  164.  Bed  sea: — Musaww4  channel 
2241.  Baltic  sea :— Entrance  to  the  gulf  of  Finland.  2618.  Chma :— Ke-lung 
harbour.  220.  Newfoundland : — Savage  cove  to  St.  Barbe  bay.  1128.  Mediterra- 
nean, Sardinia : — ^Ports  Conte  and  Alghero.  123.  Africa,  south  coast : — Table  bay 
breakwater  and  docks.  2397a.  Scotland: — North  and  east  coasts.  2154.  England* 
south  coast : — Newhaven.  358.  Japan : — The  western  coasts  of  Kiusiu  and  Nip(m. 
104.  China: — Korean  archipelago,  southern  portion.  120.  North  sea: — Schelde 
river.  397.  Africa,  west  coast: — ^Volta  river.  1259.  Korea: — Tsau-liang-hai  or 
Chosan  harbour.  1991.  England,  south  coast : — Folkestone  harbour.  2405.  Japan : — 
Kiu-il  islands.  1628.  England,  east  coast: — Hartlepool  bay.  2875.  Japan: — 
Seto-uchi  or  Inland  sea.  2G82.  England,  west  coast : — Nash  point  to  New  Passage. 
518.  Australia,  west  coat : — Shark  bay.  1749.  South  America,  east  coast : — Monte 
Video  to  Buenos  Ayres.  1720.  England,  east  coast: — Filey  bay.  2416.  China 
sea: — ^Liu  Kiu  islands.  2160.  Eastern  archipelago: — Carimata  strait.  292. 
Newfoundland : — Harbours  and  anchorages  in  the  southern  portion.  1628.  England, 
east  coast :— Hartlepool  bay.  983.  North  Pacific :— Marshall  islands.  987.  South 
Pacific: — Plans  of  islands.  934.  Eastern  archipelago: — Sourabaya,  Baly,  and 
Sapoedie  straits.  249.  Africa,  north  coast :— Mehediah  to  Bas  Makhabez.  2809. 
China : — ^Yang-tse-Kiang,  Sheet  IX,,  Shanghai  to  Nanking.  475.  Australia : — ^North- 
west coast  of  Australia.    47.  Hindostan,  west  coast:— Bate  harbour.     1766.  Africa, 


NEW  MAPS.  687 

north  coast:— Cape  Ferrat  to  cape  Bongaroni.  2027.  Frioce  Edward  ialaiid: — 
CW;ampeqae  harbour.  675.  Gulf  of  Aden : — ^Berbereh  port.  285.  Newfoundland : — 
Orange  bay  to  Gander  hay.  1938.  South  America,  east  coast ;  Uruguay  river  : — 
Martin  Garcia  to  Salto  Grande.  781.  Pacific  ocean :— North-west  sheet  783. 
Pacific  ocean  .'—South-east  sheet.  1602.  China : — ^Entrance  to  the  Tang-tse-Eiang. 
2522.  South  America,  east  coast:— Santa  Catharina  to  Rio  de  la  Phita.  932. 
Java : — Plans  of  harbours  and  anchorages.  1942.  Prince  Edward  island : — Bedeque 
harbour.  2234.  Black  sea :— Sea  of  Azov.  1811.  Africa,  east  coast : — Chala  point 
to  Kwyhoo  bay.  771.  Liu  Kiu  islands : — ^Hancock  bay.  1461.  Italy,  west  coast: — 
Genoa.  1358.  South  America,  east  coast : — Union  bay  to  Rio  Negro.  214.  South 
Pacific  ocean: — Solomon  islands.  1670 &.  Australia,  east  coast: — Moreton  bay. 
1674.  Australia,  east  coast : — Brisbane  river.  545.  South  America : — Anchorages 
in  Magellan  strait.  1413.  England,  west  coast : — Holyhead  hay.  1411.  England 
west  coast: — ^New  Quay  to  Holyhead.  814.  Bay  of  Bengal:— The  Sandheada, 
False  point  to  Mutlah  river.    (J.  D.  Fo&er,  agent.) 

D^p8t  des  Cartes  et  Plans  de  la  Harine.—Na  3916.  CCte  Nord  de  France. 

Do  Gravelines  k  Zuidcoote.    Atterrages  de  Dunkerque,  1882. — No.  3891.  Cdte 

Nord  de  France.    Du  Cap  Gris-Nez  i,  Calais.    Atterrages  de  Calais,  1882. — No. 

3932.  Plan  des  Environs  de  Trouville,  1883.— No.  3913.  Cdte  Nord  de  France. 

Rade  de  Dunkerque,  1882.— No.  3915.  Mer  des  Indes.     Golfe  d'Aden.     Port 

d'Obock,  1882.— No.  3925.  Golfe  du  Tong-Kin.    C6te  Sud  de  Chine.    Entrfo  de 

la  Riviere  de  Long-Moun,  1882.— No.  3857.  Mer  de  Chine,    C6te  d'Hainan. 

Moaillage  do  Nankin.    Mouill^e  de  Tinhosa,  1881. — No.  3936.  Gtolfe  du  Tong- 
.    Kin.    Mouillages  de  Shieng-Moun,  Kouai-Sing-Moun  et  Ke-Bao,  1882.  —  No. 

3938.  Tunisie.    Lac  de  Bizerte  (Partie  Nord),  1883.— No.  3930.  Oc^an  Pacifique. 

lies  Marquises.    He  Ua-Huka,  1883.— No.  3894.  Nouvelle  Cal^onie.    C6te  Est . 

Baie  de  Tuo,  1882.    Ddpdt  des  Cartes  et  Plans  de  la  Marine,  Paris. 

United  States  Hydrog^phic  Office.— Chart  No.  903.  North  Pacific  Ocean. 
West  Coast  of  North  America  from  the  Juan  de  Fuca  Strait  to  Queen  Charlotte 
Islands,  including  Vancouver  Island ;  from  British  and  United  States  Surveys  to 
1882.  Published  June  1883  at  the  Hydrographic  Office,  Washington  D.C. 
J.  C.  P.  de  Krafft,  Commodore  u.s.n.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 
Price  28.  Id. 

ATLASES. 

Qaesnel,  G.—Nouvel  Atlas  Classique,  dress6  conform^ment  aux  Nouveaux  Pro- 
grammes par  G.  Quesnel,  Professeur  de  Geographic.  G.  Masson,  Paris,  1883. 
Price  11.  6«.  complete.     (Dulau.) 

This  atlas  is  divided  into  three  sections,  each  of  which  may  be  had  sepa- 
rately: Sec  L  12  maps,  8«.  Sec.  II.  18  maps,  10«.  Sec.  III.  23  maps, 
12«.  Gd. 

The  contents  are  as  follows  :—~ 
Sec.  I. :  La  France  et  scs  Colonies.  1.  France  hypsom^trique.  2.  France 
physique.  3.  Bassin  de  la  Gironde.  4.  Bassin  de  la  Loire.  5.  Bassin 
de  la  Seine.  6.  Bassin  du  Rhin  fran9ais.  7.  Bassin  du  Rh6ne.  8. 
France  historique.  9.  France  administrative.  10.  Voies  de  communi- 
cation. 11.  Alg^rie.  12.  Colonies. 
Sec.  II.:  I'Europe  moins  la  France.  1.  Europe  physique.  2.  Europe 
politique.  3.  Europe  hypsom^trique.  4.  Bassin  du  Rhin.  5.  Baasin 
de  TElbe  et  de  TOder.  6.  Bassin  de  la  Baltique.  7.  Bassin  du 
Danube.  8.  Bassin  du  Pd.  9.  Suisse.  10.  Belgique  et  Pays-Bas. 
11.  Allemagne.    12.  Autriche  et  Hongrie.    13.  P^ninsule  hellenique. 


688  NEW  HAPS. 

14.  Italie.     15.  Espagne  et  Portugal.     16.  Ilea  Britannlques.    17. 
Etats  scandinaves.    18.  Russie  d'Europe. 
Sec.  III.:  TAfrique,  TAsie,  rOc^anie,  rAm^rique.    1.  Planiaphdre.    2L: 
Afrique.      3.   Maroc,  Algeria  et  Tunis.     4.   Sahara  et  Soudan.    5. 
Airique  australe.    6.  Yall^o  du  Nil.    7.  Asie.    8.  Turquie  et  Arebie. 
9.  Perse,  Turkestan,  Afghanistan,  Beloutchistan.    10.  Empire  Indo- 
Britannique.     11.   Indo-Chine.     12.   Chine  et  Japon.     13.   Empire 
Eusse.     14.  Ocdanie.    15.  Australie  et  Malaii»ie.    16.  Amdrique  da 
Nord.    17.  Terres  arctiques,  Nouvelle-Bretagoe  (2  cartes).     18.  £tatc- ' 
Unis.      19.  fitats-Unis   (de  I'Atlantiquo),  Antilles  (2  cartes).     20. 
Am^rique  centrale.    21.  Am^rique  du  Sud. 

EDUCATIONAL. 

Australia  and  Ifew  Zealand,  Map  of .    Prepared  for  the  use  of  teacben 

under  the  Education  Department  of  South  Australia,  1882.  Scale  1 :  8,000,000 
or  109  *  5  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Compiled  under  the  direction  of  the 
Inspector-General  of  Schools.    R  Spiller,  Government  Printer,  Adelaide. 

Balkan-Halbinflel.— Richard  Eiepert's  Schul-Wand-Atlas  der  Lander  Europa's. 
Achte  Ldeferung :  Politische  Wandkarte  der  Balkan-Halbinsel.  Scale  1 : 1,000,000 
or  13 '6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Dietrich  Reimer,  Berlin,  1883.  6  sheets. 
Price  7«.  6d.    (Didau.) 

Berra,  J.  A. — ^Mapa  de  la  Republica  Oriental  del  Uruguay  para  el  uoo  de  las  escuela* 
primarias.    Montevideo,  1882.    {Dulau.) 


((  Ldlanrl  fiv^iufoi-:,  ' 


V.^ 


N:.^T-vT?,Rt:.«'v;^  / 


PROCEEDINGS 


OF  THE 


ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 

AND  MONTHLY  RECORD  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


Survey  of  the  Eastern  Coast  of  Lake  Ntjassa,  and  latest  neivs  of  the 
"  Lake-Junction  Boad."    By  James  Stewabt,  o.e. 
Map,  p.  752. 
The  following  letter  and  its  accompanying  map  acquire  additional 
and  melancholy  interest  from  the  recent  telegraphic  news  of  the  death 
of  the  author,  which  event  occurred  on  the  30th  of  August,  baroly  a 
month  after  the  date  of  his  postscript.     Besides  his  great  services  in 
founding  suitable  stations  for  missionary  work  on  the  lake,  and  in  con- 
structing, on  behalf  of  Mr.  James  Stevenson,  the  road  between  the  two 
lakes,  he  has  added,  during  the  years  he  has  been  engaged  on  Nyassa, 
greatly  to  our  geographical  knowledge  of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding 
country.    The  survey  of  the  eastern  coast,  which  he  sent  with  this,  his 
last,  communication  to  Mr.  Stevenson,  enables  us  to  complete  the  whole 
outline  of  the  lake,  part  of  which  was  left  blank  ip  his  previous  maps, 
published  in  the  *  Proceedings '  for  1879,  p.  352,  and  1880,  p,  464. 

My  dear  Mr.  Stevenson, —  Kabouoa,  Lakjb  Nyassa,  2nd  July,  1883. 

It  is  some  time  now  since  I  last  wrote  to  you,  but  I  have  had  very 
little  to  write  about.  The  work  of  the  road  is  slowly  progressing,  but 
a  great  deal  more  slowly  than  I  would  like.  At  the  present  there  are 
about  100  men  engaged  on  it.  Munro  has  just  finished  the  very  difSicult 
portion  along  the  bank  of  the  Eikuru  river  at  Earamba,  so  that  perhaps 
the  most  serious  obstacle  on  the  whole  road  has  been  overcome.  I  have 
just  now  come  down  from  Maliwanda's  to  lay  out  another  bit  of  work  for 
him.  The  chief  keeps  on  very  good  terms  with  his  men,  and  they  always 
keep  saying  that  they  are  going  to  finish  the  next  12  miles  for  him. 
Earamba  also  continues  friendly,  and,  what  is  even  stranger,  the  Arab 
visitors  in  the  district  are  now  well-disposed,  and  have  been  selling  Munro 
supplies  (fowls,  Ac),  and  they  have  also'  been  selling  ivory  toMonteith  at 
the  lake.  At  Maliwanda,  only  about  10  miles  have  been  done  this  season. 
I  cannot  yet  make  out  why  they  won't  come  out  to  the  work.  In  every 
other  respect  we  are  on  good  terms  with  them.  I  left  Boss  last  week  with  a 
gang  of  forty-two,  some  of  whom  had  come  from  a  considerable  distance. 

No.  XIL— Dia  1883.]  2  z 


690  SURVEY  OF  THE  EASTERN  (30AST  OF  LAKE  NYASSA, 

That  nnmber  should  do  abont  a  mile  a  week,  as  the  work  is  very  easy 
up  there.  Last  week  I  paid  a  visit  to  Mivini  Wiwa,  and  was  rather 
disappointed  with  him.  He  certainly  is  a  chief  of  mnch  greater  power 
than  Maliwanda  or  any  other  near  here,  but  he  maintains  a  kind  of 
barbarous  regal  state  about  him,  the  idea  of  which  he  can  have  received 
only  from  Arabs.  Indeed  I  heard  that  he  was  both  fond  of  war  and  of 
trading  in  slaves.  He  generally  makes  incursions  into  the  region  about  the 
Loangwa,  to  the  south  of  the  chief  Eambomba.  When  I  was  introduced 
to  him,  I  was  stopped  at  a  considerable  distance  from  him,  say  25  yards, 
and  sat  down,  and  thereafter  his  head  men  acted  the  part  of  spokesmen 
between  us,  and  took  him  my  present,  which  he  received  civilly.  But 
in  fact  I  was  rather  taken  aback  at  his  greatness  and  magnificence,  and 
was  not  prepared  with  a  suitable  present  (I  had  only  brought  a  blanket 
such  as  Maliwanda  would  have  been  proud  to  receive).  I  intend  to  send 
him  another  present ;  he  is  much  too  far  away  to  visit  again,  at  least 
just  now.  His  village  is  very  nearly  100  miles  south-west  of  Maliwanda, 
and  therefore  considerably  to  the  south  of  the  line  of  road,  which  I  am 
not  sorry  for.  He  is  old,  and  evidently  an  acute  man  of  business,  so 
I  think  he  may  be  trusted  to  act  according  to  his  interests,  which 
certainly  are  to  keep  on  friendly  terms  with  the  white  men,  as  his 
constant  enemies,  the  Awemba,  are  always  troubling  him.  If  I  had 
been  the  fortunate  possessor  of  war  medicine,  I  could  on  the  spot  have 
made  a  firm  friend  of  him.  His  people  have  a  large  number  of  good 
flint-locks. 

A  Frenchman  with  a  strong  party  from  Zanzibar*  lately  passed 
through  the  district.  He  had  some  trouble  with  Maliwanda  about  food, 
and  did  not  leave  a  very  good  name  there.  He  then  went  to  Mivini 
Wiwa,  and,  I  heard,  purchased  or  accepted  two  slaves  from  him.  It  is 
a  great  pity  that  European  travellers  should  soil  their  hands  by  touching 
this  accursed  traffic.  The  acceptance  of  slaves,  even  as  a  matter  of 
courtesy,  is  really  trading  for  them,  and  is  considered  as  such  here. 
Mivini  Wiwa  sent  me  a  boy  along  with  the  bull  some  months  ago,  but 
of  course  I  sent  him  back.  The  Frenchman  was  said  to  be  travelling  to 
Tanganyika;  but  I  have  no  certain  information  regarding  him.  He 
visited  my  house  at  Maliwanda  in  my  absence,  but  did  not  leave  his 
card  or  any  message.  On  my  way  to  Mivini  Wiwa  I  crossed  within 
two  days*  march  the  head-waters  first  of  the  Longwe,  draining  to  Lake 
Nyassa ;  then  of  the  Loangwa,  draining  to  the  Zambesi ;  then  of  the 
Chambezi,  draining  to  the  Congo.  All  these  streams  rise  in  the 
Mapurumuka  Mountains,  at  the  south  end  of  the  Awiwa  range.  The 
Chambezi  tributaries  are  large,  and  from  the  point  where  they  unite 
must  form  a  considerable  stream ;  but  the  altitude  at  which  I  crossed 

♦  No  doubt  M.  Giraud,  on  his  way  to  Lako  Bangweolo  and  the  Congo.  He  left 
Dar-ea-Salaam,  near  Zanzibar,  on  the  10th  of  December,  1882.  He  vas  last  heard  of 
about  April  hist,  from  Mguna,  in  Khutu,  8.  lat.  7°  27'.— [Ed.] 


AND  LATEST  NEWS  OF  THE  "LAKE-JUNCTION  ROAD."  691 

them  forbids  the  idea  of  any  navigation.  At  40  or  50  miles  west  of 
Maliwanda  the  elevation  is  4622  feet  above  the  sea,  or  934  feet  above 
Bangweolo.  As  far  as  I  went  the  country  continues  quite  level,  with 
abrupt  hills  here  and  there,  which  the  native  tracks  of  course  avoid. 
The  first  consignment  of  the  London  Missionary  Society's  steamer  for 
embarkation  on  Lake  Tanganyika  is  now  safe  at  Maliwanda.  The  last 
plates  were  carried  up  by  Earonga's  men ;  so  if  they  will  carry  the  loads 
henceforward  to  Maliwanda,  I  have  little  doubt  that  Maliwanda*s  people 
will  carry  them  on  the  next  stage.  They  have  come  down  several  times 
for  loads.  We  are  now  in  daily  expectation  of  the  Bala  with  the  second 
consignment. 

I  send  you  at  last  my  survey  of  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Nyassa.  I 
have  no  report  to  make  about  it.  The  coast  country  is  very  dparsely 
populated.  At  Chitisi,  the  Losewa,  and  at  Makanjira,  there  are  a  good 
many  villages;  elsewhere  the  coast  is  either  rock-bound  or  marshy. 
The  large  river  I  formerly  mentioned  throws  up  a  shallow  bar,  except 
when  it  is  in  flood,  which  is  quite  impassable  except  in  the  rains ;  the 
discovery  therefore  ceases  to  be  of  any  importance.  Bampa  Harbour 
turns  out  to  be  one  of  the  best  on  the  lake,  and  has  been  used  a  good  deal 
lately  by  the  Ilala.  Inland  from  it  is  a  fairly  good  elephant  shooting 
ground.  Lieutenant  Pulley  is  there  just  now,  shooting  for  the  Com- 
pany. This  place  will  likely  become  more  familiar  to  us  soon.  Mr. 
Johnson,  of  the  Universities'  Mission,  is  now  travelling  among  the 
Hakangwara  tribes,  east  of  the  Livingstone  range,  and  intended  to  return 
to  Bampa.  His  report  will  likely  be  of  interest.  This  leaves  us  all  well 
at  present.     With  best  regards. 

Yours,  &c., 

Jas.  Stewart. 

P.S. — ^I  have  just  received  through  Consul  O'Neill  a  copy  of  your 
letter  to  Her  Majesty's  Secretary  for  Foreign  AflBsiirs.  I  will  rejoice 
greatly  if  any  Government  action  can  be  looked  for.  Much  pressure  is 
still  required  at  Zanzibar,  but  how  influence  can  be  made  effective  in  the 
interior  is  a  more  difficult  problem.  You  have,  doubtless,  considered  all 
the  bearings  of  the  matter.  I  would  only  point  out  that  it  would  be  a 
bad  business  for  us  here  if  energetic  measures  for  the  suppression  of  the 
slave  trade  were  taken  in  the  north  of  Africa  and  nothing  done  here,  as 
then  we  should  likely  be  overrun  by  traders.  I  think  that  at  least  an 
annual  round  by  the  lakes  from  Quillimane  to  Ujiji,  and  thence  to 
Zanzibar,  might  be  made  by  such  a  man  as  Consul  O'Neill  with  very 
good  effect.  Acquaintance  with  the  British  power  would  do  much  good, 
and  would  give  us  greatly  increased  confidence. 

Blanttbk,  Ist  August,  1883. 
The  sad  death  of  Captain  Gowans  of  the  Hala,  at  Earonga,  on 
the  15th  of  July,  imposed  on  me  the  duty  of  bringing  the  Ilala  down  to 

2  z  2 


692  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  BOLOBO. 

Matope,  and  consequently  of  leaving  my  proper  work  for  a  time.  I 
arrived  here  on  the  30tli  of  July,  and  heard  of  the  death  of  Mrs.  Duncan 
and  Mrs.  Nichol  of  Blantyre.  They  will  be  much  missed.  Before  we 
left  Earonga,  Monteith  had  forwarded  nearly  the  whole  of  the  second 
consignment  of  the  London  Missionary  Society's  steamer  on  to  Mali- 
wanda,  so  I  trust  there  will  be  no  delay  there.  Mr.  Filloir  and  Mr. 
Eoxburgh  go  north  with  me  as  soon  as  we  can  get  ready,  and^  they  will 
look  after  the  transport. 

J.S. 


The  River  Congo,  from  its  Mouth  to  Bdlobo  ;  wiUi  Notes  on  the  Physical 
Geography,  Natural  History,  Resources,  and  Political  Aspect  of  the 
Congo  Basin,    By  H.  H.  Johnston. 

(Bead  at  the  Evening  Meeting.  November  12th,  1883.) 
Map,  p.  752. 

Shortly  after  my  return  from  the  Congo  in  the  month  of  August  last,  I 
was  invited  to  read  before  the  Geographical  Section  of  the  British 
Association  a  short  account  of  my  personal  experiences  during  my 
journey.  This  paper  has  already  been  published  in  the  October  *  Pro- 
ceedings '  of  the  Boyal  Greographical  Society,  and  it  may  be  regarded  as  a 
prelude  to  the  further  and  more  detailed  description  of  this  country 
which  I  have  now  the  honour  to  lay^before  you. 

On  starting  to  reach  the  Congo,  as  I  did,  from  Sao  Paulo  de  Loanda, 
journeying  along  the  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  coast  that  separate  the 
mouth  of  that  river  from  the  capital  of  Angola,  you  must  necessarily 
pass  rather  varied  phases  of  African  scenery.  Between  Loanda  and 
Ambriz,  strange  to  say,  although  the  country  is  nominally  owned  by 
the  Portuguese,  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a  European  to  travel  by  land, 
owing  to  the  animosity  of  the  natives,  but  save  for  the  pretty  river 
Dande  there  is  little  to  be  seen  of  much  interest.  Ambriz  itself  is  a 
remarkably  ugly  place,  but  possesses  great  materials  for  prosperity  as  it 
has  been  made  a  fairly  safe  landing-place  by  the  Portuguese,  in  the  midst 
of  a  singularly  dangerous  coast,  and  is  moreover  the  great  outlet  for  the 
coffee  trade  of  the  interior.  A  few  miles  north  of  Ambriz  recognised 
Portuguese  dominion  ceases,  the  river  Loge  being  the  boundary,  and  the 
next  European  settlement,  Kinsembo,  is  independent  and  cosmopolitan. 
The  scenery,  where  no  river-course  intersects  the  land,  is  depressing,  the 
chief  vegetation  that  spots  the  arid  soil  being  ugly  euphorbias  and 
stunted  baobabs,  except  along  the  sea- coast,  where  an  occasional  Borassus 
palm  gives  a  promise  of  better  things.  Some  ten  miles  off  in  the 
interior  the  landscapes  are  so  many  earthly  paradises,  with  their  massive 
groves  and  verdant  slopes  and  prosperous  plantations,  but  here  near  the 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B(5l6b6.  •     693 

sea  it  is  barren,  grey,  desolate  and  deserted,  like  so  much  of  the  South- 
vreat  African  coast.  So  on,  past  Mossera  and  other  trading  settlements 
until  Ambrizete  is  reached.  Here  there  is  something  more  hopefully 
alive  in  nature.  The  scenery  at  about  a  mile  from  the  coast  is  beauti- 
ful and  park-like,  and  the  meadows  down  near  the  Ambrizete  river  are 
studded  with  many  wild  flowers.  The  baobabs  in  the  distance  seem  to 
be  fine  stout  beech  trees,  growing  in  an  English  park,  and  their  leaves 
are  tender  and  green,  having  just  budded  out  under  the  October  rains. 
Even  the  euphorbias  are  handsomer  and  glossier  in  this  more  favoured 
region,  and  have  lost  that  dingy  colour  and  distorted  form  which 
characterise  them  on  the  arid  Angolan  coast. 

As  Ambriz  is  the  great  coffee  port,  so  Ambrizete  is  the  outlet  for 
the  ivory  trade,  and  has  been  so  for  many  years.  As  I  shall  point  out 
farther  on,  the  ivory  road  starts  from  Stanley  Pool,  passes  through  Sflo 
Salvador  and  debouches  at  Ambrizete.  From  Ambrizete  the  pine- 
apple has  been  introduced  along  the  trade  routes,  far  into  the  interior  of 
the  southern  Congo  region,  and  it  is  probable  that  limes  and  oranges, 
maize  and  sugar-cane  originally  started  from  here  or  from  some  neigh- 
bouring point  along  the  coast,  where  they  were  introduced  by  the 
Portuguese,  and  spread  thence  rapidly  into  the  interior  along  the 
cirterial  trade  paths,  finding  it  easy  to  overrun  these  hitherto  poorly-fed 
<x>untries.  The  natives  of  Ambrizete  are  very  turbulent  and  decidedly 
opposed  to  any  idea  of  future  annexation  or  protectorate  by  a  European 
power.  For  this  reason  no  white  man  is  allowed  to  penetrate  more  than 
a  few  miles  into  the  interior,  and  scientific  explorations  are  indistinguish- 
able in  their  eyes  from  political  reconnaissances.  In  this  way  the  region 
lying  between  Sao  Salvador  and  the  coast,  vaguely  named  Ngoje, 
remains  almost  unknown  to  Europeans. 

Beyond  Ambrizete  are  many  smaller  settlements  for  trade,  the  last 
of  which,  before  the  Congo  is  reached,  being  Cabe9a  da  Cobra,  in  the 
country  of  Sonyo,  a  region  once  subjected  to  considerable  Portuguese 
influence.  This  little  place  seemed  to  my  starved  eyes  a  marvel  of 
tropical  scenery,  for  hero  after  many  hundred  miles  of  desert  or  arid 
plateau  the  sterile  influences  of  the  south  coast  are  vanquished,  and  a 
rich,  beautiful  vegetation  grows  down  to  the  very  waves.  There  was  a 
«tretch  of  low-lying  land  about  a  mile  or  less  in  breadth  immediately 
next  the  sea,  which  was  overgrown  with  dense  bush,  and  was  in  fact  a 
most  beautiful  natural  garden.  There  were  groups  of  umbrageous  trees 
^some  of  them  handsome  species  of  papilionaceaB,  whose  lilac-coloured 
blossoms  covered  the  ground  beneath)  offering  a  most  welcome  and 
unaccustomed  shade,  where  seated  amidst  a  trellis- work  of  creepers,  on 
a  dry  carpet  of  fallen  leaves  and  flowers,  you  could  dreamily  inhale 
the  perfume  which  the  ardent  sun  drew  from  the  surrounding  jasmine 
bushes.    In  the  background,  behind  all  this  greenery,  the  land  abruptly 


694  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B(5l6b6. 

rises  and  resembles  a  row  of  ancient  cliffs,  from  which  the  sea  has 
retreated,  and  whence  the  rain  has  washed  down  the  loose  snrface  soU 
that  nourishes  the  verdant  garden  below.  Their  summits  are  harsh 
and  barren  from  the  constant  denudation,  but  half  a  mile  farther  on 
vegetation  begins  again. 

The  natives  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cabe^a  da  Cobra  are  of  rather 
a  low  type  and  very  black;  they  belong  to  the  Mushirongoe,  a  tribe 
which  reaches  to  the  south  bank  of  the  Congo.  The  interior  of  their 
country  is  but  little  know^. 

Some  time  before  we  reach  the  Congo,  the  red  cliffs  which  are  such  a 
constant  feature  in  the  South-west  African  coast  sink  lower  and  lower, 
and  giv^e  place  to  mighty  mangrove  swamps  of  considerable  extent. 
Then  the  sea  becomes  coloured  by  the  sediment  of  the  river,  and  the 
contrast  is  sharply  marked  where  the  cloudy  river-water  meets  the  clear 
sea.  The  colour  of  the  Congo  water  is  dark  brownish-red,  and  that  of 
the  sea  transparent  green ;  the  temperature  of  the  two  waters  is  also 
different,  that  of  the  Congo  registering  83°  Fahrenheit,  and  the  sea- 
water  74",  a  difference  of  nine  degrees. 

The  mouth  of  the  Congo  is  comparatively  unimposing  for  so  great  s 
river,  and  is  very  simple  and  undivided  when  compared  with  the  great 
deltas  of  the  Nile,  the  Niger,  and  the  Zambesi.  In  fact  this  is  one  of  the 
firat  impressions  which  gives  an  air  of  "newness*'  to  the  river,  and 
suggests  that  its  present  outlet  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  may  not  be  of 
very  ancient  date.  That  the  Congo  in  many  directions  is  trying  to 
force  its  way  to  the  sea  by  means  of  other  branches,  I  am  inclined  to 
believe,  for  many  of  its  so-called  "creeks"  between  Boma  and  the  sea, 
though  at  present  remaining  blind  alleys,  yet  have  gained  in  length  in 
the  memory  of  the  European  settlers  on  the  Lower  Congo,  and  it  is  the 
opinion  of  some  who  know  the  country  that  the  river  may  ultimately 
force  a  way  to  the  sea  at  Eabinda  by  means  of  a  branch  outlet  from 
Boma. 

The  aspect  of  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  with  its  two  opposite  points 
of  FadrSo  and  Banana  is  rather  curious.  They  seem  like  the  last  frag* 
ments  of  the  ancient  coast-line  through  which  the  river  has  broken. 
Point  Padrao  is  a  spit  of  marshy  land  covered  with  splendid  forest 
and  fringed  with  breakwaters  of  mangrove  and  clumps  of  beautiful 
Borassus  palms.  Banana  Point  is  a  little  peninsula  of  sand  which 
without  the  intervention  of  man  would  have  been  washed  away  by  the 
river  current  on  one  side  and  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic  on  the 
other.  On  this  narrow  strip  of  land  where  space  is  as  valuable  as  in 
some  civilised  cities,  there  are  three  different  factories,  of  which  that 
belonging  to  the  Dutch  Company  is  by  far  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant. On  the  ground  occupied  by  this  establishment  many  handsome 
palms  are  planted,  to  aid  with  their  roots  in  keeping  the  loose  soil 
together.     Where  the  peninsula  is  joined  to  the  mainland  it  is  all  over- 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B0L0B<5.  696 

grown  with  giant  mangroves  and  is  very  marshy  in  character,  being  to 
all  intents  and  purposes  an  island,  for  it  is  impossible  to  reach  the  high 
ground  beyond  otherwise  than  by  water.  On  the  inner  side  of  the  little 
promontory  is  a  deep  and  capacious  inlet  of  the  Congo,  where  there  is 
room  for  a  whole  navy  to  be  moored.  Here  ships  of  the  greatest  size 
can  be  anchored  within  fifty  yards  of  the  shore. 

Beyond  Banana,  northwards,  following  the  coast-line,  there  is  a  great 
stretch  of  mangrove,  and  then  the  land  again  begins  to  rise  into  low 
red  clifis  at  Muanda,  where  there  is  a  trading  station.  Thence  the  road 
leads  on  to  Vista,  another  settlement  of  Europeans,  where  there  is  an 
excellent  and  healthy  climate,  and  where  immense  herds  of  oxen  are  bred 
for  the  sustenance  of  the  whites  on  the  Lower  Congo.  Beyond  Vista 
the  path  or  native  road  goes  on  to  Kabinda,  Landana  and  Loango,  and 
there  is  a  regular  system  of  human  porterage  from  village  to  village. 
Indeed,  at  the  time  of  my  first  visit  to  Banana  in  November  1882, 1  was 
informed  that  it  was  perfectly  easy  and  safe  to  go  alone  in  a  hammock 
with  native  carriers  from  Banana  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ogowe,  along  the 
coast,  and  the  journey  could  be  accomplished  at  a  moderate  expense. 
I  had  very  nearly  settled  to  undertake  this  interesting  trip,  and  nothing 
but  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Stanley  diverted  me. 

Since  then,  however,  owing  to  the  arbitrary  proceedings  of  the 
French  along  the  Loango  coast,  the  road  has  been  temporarily  closed. 

Before  I  proceed  further  in  my  description  of  the  Congo,  I  should 
like  to  say  a  few  words  on  the  physical  aspect  of  South-west  Africa, 
which  offers  certain  peculiarities  that  have  not,  as  far  as  I  know,  been 
sufficiently  insisted  on  by  African  geographers,  and  which  will  necessarily 
be  referred  to  in  my  continued  account  of  the  different  phases  of  scenery 
along  the  lower  course  of  the  Congo. 

Throughout  the  western  coast  of  tropical  Africa,  from  Sierra  Leone 
to  the  river  Ogowe,  the  one  prevailing  landscape  is  that  of  endless 
forest.  This  is,  in  fact,  part  of  the  forest  region — the  forest  belt  which 
has  a  distinctive  fauna  and  flora,  and  which  extends  eastwards,  near  the 
equator,  more  than  half-way  across  Africa,  to  Lake  Victoria  Nyanza  and 
the  western  shores  of  Tanganyika.  This  is  the  country  of  the  anthropoid 
apes,  which  are  found  equally  near  Sierra  Leone  and  on  the  Well6  and 
near  the  Upper  Nile.  But  when  the  mouth  of  the  Ogowe  is  passed,  the 
forest  begins  to  retreat  from  the  coast  and  is  gradually  succeeded  by 
more  open  savannah  scenery,  so  cbaracteristio  of  Africa,  and  so  happily 
described  by  older  travellers  as  *'  park- like,"  a  designation  which  its 
open  grassy  spaces  and  formal  groups  of  shady  trees  amply  justify. 
Such  is  the  country  at  Loango,  Kabinda,  and  along  the  Lower  Congo 
up  to  Stanley  Fool.  But  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  Congo  embouchure 
the  park-like  scenery  in  its  turn  begins  to  retreat  from  the  coast  some- 
where about  Cabe^a  da  Cobra,  a  place  I  have  already  mentioned,  and 
there  follows  a  much  uglier  region  of  sparse  vegetation  and  less  abundant  - 


696  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B0L0B(5. 

rainfall.  Of  sncli  is  the  conn  try  around  Loanda,  where  scarcely  anything 
bat  euphorbias,  baobabs,  and  aloes  are  growing,  and  where  there  ia 
often  less  than  two  months'  rain  in  the  year. 

This  harsh  country  continues  along  the  coast  for  some  distance  until 
about  the  13th  parallel,  where  it  in  its  turn  trends  off  towards  the 
interior,  and  absolute  desert  takes  its  place  and  continues  uninterruptedly 
as  far  as  the  Orange  River.  In  a  journey  from  Mossamedes  to  the  river 
Cun^ne,  such  as  I  have  recently  made  with  Lord  Mayo,  you  may  suooee- 
sively  pass  through  these  three  last  phases  of  scenery,  and  after  crossing 
a  zone  of  absolute  desert,  enter  a  region  of  sparse  vegetation,  and  finally 
arrive  at  the  beautiful  undulating  country  of  scattered  forest  and  grassy 
plains  which  only  reaches  the  sea  as  far  north  as  the  Congo  mouth. 

This  sterility  seems  to  be  a  continuation  along  the  south-western 
coast  of  the  Kalahari  Desert,  and  it  is  curious  that  something  similar 
takes  place  in  Western  South  America,  where  the  desert  would  appear 
to  be  prolonged  northwards  in  a  narrowing  belt,  and  also  in  Western 
Australia— a  contrast  to  the  fertility  and  abundant  vegetation  of  Brazil, 
Queensland,  and  South-east  Africa. 

The  four  regions  I  have  just  described  may  be  said  to  vary  from 
almost  absolute  sterility  to  transcendent  richness  of  vegetation.  Perhaps 
the  word  sterility  is  hardly  a  true  one,  as  the  desert  soil  is  quite  capable 
of  producing  ample  crops ;  it  is  merely  the  rainfall  that  is  lacking. 
The  sandy  wastes  between  Mossamedes  and  the  Orange  River  grow 
little  but  the  strange  Welwitschia  and  a  few  stunted  Bauhinias;  in  the 
succeeding  region  the  euphorbias  and  aloes  are  the  principal  ooca- 
pants  of  the  soil,  with  an  occasional  baobab,  mimosa,  or  fig.  In  the 
park-like  country  the  forest  trees  are  too  numerous  and  varied  to  cata- 
logue ;  but  amongst  them  may  be  noticed  the  beautiful  Hyphsene  palm, 
the  oil-palm  as  far  as  10°  S.,  the  cotton-wood,  the  baobab,  gigantic 
mimosas,  figs,  and  a  variety  of  splendid  trees  belonging  to  the  papilio- 
naceous order.  This  is  the  most  typical  region  of  Africa,  and  it  is  the 
country  of  the  large  game  animals.  Finally,  the  forest  belt  that  clothes 
so  much  of  Western  Africa  is  the  grand  climax  of  vegetable  development, 
where  with  ample  space,  continual  rain,  and  an  equatorial  sun,  plant  life 
flourishes  and  rules  supreme  above  the  animal  world. 

The  first  place  on  the  Congo  at  which  I  made  a  protracted  stay 
wa8Kissangue,a  semi-Portuguese  trading  settlement  on  the  south  bank, 
about  21  to  23  miles  from  the  sea.  This  was  a  singularly  interesting 
district,  and,  in  spite  of  its  marshy  character,  very  healthy.  The  man- 
groves still  grew  here,  but  were  no  longer  the  principal  occupants  of 
the  watery  soil.  Away  from  the  temporary  and  feeble  clearings  that 
the  few  commercial  houses  had  made,  a  majestic  forest  towered  into 
the  sky,  displaying  the  most  splendid  effects  that  a  rich  and  fantastic 
foliage,  a  brilliant  colouring  of  varied  greens,  and  a  weird  architecture 
of  oontoi-ted  and  massive  trunks  could  produce.    In  the  marshy  spots 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOOTH  TO  II(5l6b6.  697 

down  near  the  river's  bank  were  masses  of  that  fine  orchid,  Ltsaochilus 
giganleus,  a  terrestrial  species  that  shoots  np  often  to  the  height  of  six 
feet  from  the  ground,  bearing  a  head  of  glorious  red,  mauve,  golden- 
oentred  blossoms  scarcely  to  be  equalled  for  beauty  and  delicacy  of  form. 

Eissangue  is  very  nearly  an  island,  being  encircled  by  two  arms  of 
the  Congo,  which  only  dry  up  occasionally  in  the  dry  season.  On  the 
mainland,  where  the  land  is  really  firm,  more  game  is  present  than  on 
the  islands  and  marshy  banks  of  the  river. 

The  next  settlement  of  any  importance  is  Ponta  da  Lenha,  whore 
steamers  call  for  supplies  of  wood  fuel.  Ponta  da  Lenha,  40  miles  from 
the  sea,  and  just  out  of  the  district  of  the  mangrove  swamps,  offers  littlo 
of  interest  or  note  save  its  fine  orange-trees,  the  only  ones  to  be  found 
on  the  river.  This  place  is  barely  above  the  level  of  the  stream  and  the 
shore  has  to  be  protected  with  piles,  as  the  Congo,  continually  widening 
its  bed,  is  slowly  eating  Ponta  da  Lenha  away.  Towards  Boma  the  hills 
begin  to  approach  the  river  and  the  character  of  the  country  becomes 
sensibly  altered.  The  vegetation  is  no  longer  so  luxuriant,  and  the 
highlands  are  destitute  of  trees  and  covered  with  long  grass,  owing  to 
the  periodical  bush  fires.  Advancing  from  Boma  the  valley  of  the  Congo 
gradually  but  rapidly  narrows  and  the  character  of  the  country  becomes 
harsher  and  bolder.  At  Mussuca  the  Borassus  palms,  so  graceful  an 
addition  to  the  landscape,  begin  to  disappear,  the  forest  is  relegated  to 
the  narrow  ravines,  and  the  hills,  scarped  and  bare,  rise  higher  and 
higher  above  the  straitened  stream.  As  we  approach  Vivi  we  pass  an 
extraordinary  gorge  called  Hell's  Cauldron  where  the  Congo  boils  and 
seethes  at  the  base  of  the  red  cliffs,  and  the  little  river  steamers  find  it 
hard  to  force  their  way  up  through  the  many  whirlpools.  Around  Vivi 
the  landscapes  are  rather  imposing.  The  mountain-sides  are  bare  but 
grandly  shaped,  and  in  the  winding  ravines  there  is  rich  forest. 
Opposite  Vivi,  the  Mpdso  river  which  flows  from  the  direction  of  Sao 
Salvador,  enters  the  Congo,  and  a  little  beyond  it  is  the  last  fall  of  the 
Congo,  a  short  distance  below  the  celebrated  rapids  of  Yellala,  which  as 
the  crow  flies  are  about  nine  miles  from  Vivi,  though  the  native  road 
makes  the  distance  somewhat  longer.  The  wild  hills  round  this  tortuous 
part  of  the  river's  course  are  almost  destitute  of  trees  and  are  generally 
sparsely  covered  with  coarse  grass.  Large  intrusive  blocks  of  gneiss 
often  lie  scattered  in  the  valleys,  possibly  washed  down  there  by  the 
heavy  rains,  which  must  rapidly  modify  the  surface  of  this  country,  to 
judge  by  the  effect  one  thunderstorm  can  produce  in  furrowing  the  hill- 
eides  with  temporary  watercourses.  The  journey  up  the  irregular 
native  path  which  leads  to  the  stony  height  overhanging  the  YeUali 
Falls  is  very  fatiguing,  for  the  rocks  are  disposed  in  ascents  which  are 
almost  stair-like,  more  resembling  perhaps  the  sides  of  the  Pyramids,  each 
step  being  often  three  feet  high.  As,  however,  you  round  the  hillside, 
a  sudden  turn  in  the  path  brings  a  grand  scene  into  view  and  a  deafening 


698  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  b6l6b6. 

roar  of  falling  water.  From  a  projecting  slab  I  looked^  down  some 
hundred  feet  on  the  giant  Ck)ngo,  leaping  over  the  rocks  cmd  dashing 
itself  against  the  imprisoning  hills.  Several  islands  bestrewed  its 
stream,  one  especially  remarkable  £rom  being  a  mass  of  velvety  woods. 
This  was  called  the  Isle  of  Pelicans,  for  numbers  of  these  great  birds 
nsed  this  inaccessible  spot  as  a  breeding  place.  Before  the  first  fall 
occurred  the  river  came  gliding  on  smoothly,  with  a  glassy  snrfiftoe,  and 
when  it  first  met  the  rocks  it  streamed  over  them  f^most  unresistingly 
until,  as  if  exasperated  by  repeated  checks,  in  the  last  grand  fiedl  of 
YelldU  it  lashed  itself  into  white  and  roaring  fury,  and  the  sound  of  its 
anger  deafened  one's  ears  and  the  sight  of  its  foam  dazzled  the  eyes.  In 
all  probability  the  Congo  never  descends  here  more  than  12  feet  at  a 
time,  but  the  constant  succession  of  falls  and  the  obstructing  rooks  lash 
the  water  into  a  state  of  indescribable  fury.  It  is  a  race  of  waves ;  some 
seem  to  outstrip  the  others,  and  every  now  and  then,  the  water  re- 
bounding from  the  descent  meets  the  oncoming  mass,  and  their  contact 
sends  a  sheet  of  foam  and  clouds  of  spray  into  the  air.-  The  rocks  near 
the  water's  edge  are  covered  with  a  long  filamentous  water-weed  of 
intense  verdure,  and  looking  like  long,  green  hair.  White  plumbago 
and  many  bright  flowers  are  growing  in  the  interstices  of  the  grey 
rocks,  over  which  large  blue  and  red  lizards  chase  the  flies  that  are  half 
stupidly  basking  in  the  sun.  At  the  greatest  fall  of  Yellala,  the  river  is 
divided  by  a  great  fragment  of  hill  separated  from  its  mother-mountain 
by  one  half  of  the  stream,  and  farther  up  more  masses  of  rock  in  which 
the  white  gneiss  crops  out  abruptly,  intersect  the  river.  On  the  hillsides 
also  many  bits  of  porphyry  and  gneiss  jut  out  from  the  red  clayey  soil. 
The  forest  is  hidden  in  the  deep  ravines,  and  only  small  bushes 
occasionally  appear  amid  the  rank  grass  that  covers  everything.  The 
background  is  a  strange  wild  jumble  of  hills,  and  the  heavy  rains  have 
scooped  and  furrowed  their  friable  soil  into  clefts  and  ravines  and 
hollows,  in  which  the  dark  forest  hides  from  the  constantly  recurring 
bush  flres  that  sweep  over  the  country  when  the  grass  is  dry. 

The  scenery  between  Vivi  and  Isangila  is  very  varied  and  often 
beautiful.  It  is  mountainous,  but  not  so  harsh  and  unclothed  as  around 
Yelldld,  while  the  valleys  are  filled  with  splendid  forest ;  and  some  of 
the  ravines  through  which  the  streams  tumble  in  white  cascades  over 
the  blue-groy  rocks,  spanned  by  the  creepers  which  stretch  from  palm 
to  palm,  are  richly  varied  in  effect.  In  broader  valleys,  such  as  that 
of  the  river  Lulu,  the  forest  is  magnificent ;  and  the  glades  are  carpeted 
with  mosses  and  silvery  lycopodiums,  through  which  the  little  track 
or  foot-wide  path  meanders.  Much  animal  life  is  evident  here.  At 
almost  every  turning  the  path  introduces  you  brusquely  to  a  family 
of  monkeys,  who  have  descended  from  the  tree-tops  to  feed  on  the  small 
ground-growing  berries,  or  to  plunge  their  greedy,  wasteful  fingers  into 
the  crimson  pulp  of  the  straying  gourds.     They  bound  up  into  the  trees 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B(5l6b6.  699 

on  your  approach,  taking  refuge  on  large  platforms  and  nests  of  twigs 
which  they  seem  to  have  constructed  on  the  upper  branches.  The  green 
fruit-pigeons  startle  you  in  the  trees  with  their  strange  cry,  commencing 
with  a  whirring  noise,  two  or  three  clucks,  and  ending  up  with  a  sweet 
and  prolonged  coo.  The  bee-eaters  are  swooping  in  eccentric  circles  on 
the  many  flying  insects,  and  little  hombills  sit  in  staid  immobility  on 
bare  and  exposed  branches. 

The  rapids  of  Ngoma  are  the  next  important  falls  of  the  river  above 
Yelldli,  and  the  scenery  is  very  fine  about  here.  At  Isangila,  however, 
are  probably  the  most  picturesque  fells  to  be  seen  on  the  Congo — ^if 
**  falls "  be  the  best  term  to  express  what  are  after  all  scarcely  more 
than  immense  rapids,  for  the  Congo  never  descends  in  vertical  cascades. 
On  the  south  bank,  nearly  fronting  Isangila  station,  is  a  lofty  olifif — a 
hillside  cloven  in  twain,  its  scarped  sides  of  a  purple-red  colour ;  but  its 
sombre  look  is  relieved  by  the  bright  green  grass  that  clothes  the  little 
knolls  and  irregularities  varying  its  sheer  descent  towards  the  Congo, 
and  the  graceful  crown  of  forest,  which  lends  a  pretty  finish  to  its 
somewhat  gaunt  head.  At  its  base,  the  river  which  has  hitherto  been 
gliding  onwards  with  deceitful  smoothness,  suddenly  breaks  into  white 
foam,  but  only  that  part  of  it  near  the  base  of  this  cli£f ;  the  other  half 
of  the  great  river  goes  rolling  on,  smooth  and  unruffled,  till  at  length 
the  whole  stream  takes  one  great  bound  over  some  hidden  ledge  of  rocks, 
and  the  mass  of  this  mighty  current  is  lashed  and  churned  into  a  terrible 
conflict  of  waves.  From  the  constant  come  and  recoil  of  the  masses  of 
water  rise  tall  columns  of  spray,  descending  in  glittering  drops  on  the 
tree-clad  islands,  and  forming  under  the  sun's  rays  fitful  gleams  of 
rainbow  colours  which  seem  at  first  hallucinations  of  the  eye.  Below 
this  great  Isangila  Fall,  the  river  breaks  away  into  many  little  bays  of 
quiet  water.  At  this  spot,  the  river  Lulu,  coming  from  great  distance 
to  the  southwards,  joins  the  Congo. 

From  Isangila,  which  I  may  mention  was  the  last  point  reached  by 
members  of  Captain  Tuckey's  expedition,  who  call  it  "  Sangala,"  to 
Manyauga  there  is  a  stretch  of  river  about  80  miles  in  length  sufficiently 
free  of  serious  obstacles  to  be  navigated  even  by  rowing-boats,  although 
when  going  up  stream  these  have  at  times  to  be  dragged  up  the  rapids 
with  ropes  from  the  shore.  The  scenery  along  this  part  of  the  Congo  is 
at  first  very  pretty.  For  some  distance  past  Isangila  tho  banks  are 
richly  forested,  and  masses  of  creepers  overspread  the  river-side  trees. 
Here  and  there,  especially  about  the  rapids,  the  Congo  is  strewn  with 
rocky  islets,  sparsely  crested  with  trees ;  and  in  and  out  of  these  the 
stream  whirls  and  eddies  over  the  hidden  rocks,  making  many  formidable 
whirlpools,  in  which  great  flecks  of  foam,  like  balls  of  cotton-wool,  are 
dancing  madly  in  a  perpetual  round.  In  the  broader  parts  (and  its 
breadth  here  is  nearly  a  mile)  groups  of  trees  stand  in  the  very  middle  of 
the  river,  stemming  its  rapid  flood.    They  must  mark  the  sites  of  rooks 


700  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B(^L0b6. 

and  banks  nncovered  in  the  dry  season,  or,  more  probably,  of  newly 
submerged  islands,  for  otherwise  the  seedling  tree  could  hardly  have 
obtained  sufficient  growth  in  one  dry  season  to  withstand  the  river's 
flood. 

Some  distance  beyond  the  Livingstone  Falls,  which  are  not  very 
striking,  the  Congo  braadens  greatly,  but  nearing  Manyanga,  the 
scenery  of  the  river  becomes  commonplace.  Low  hills  of  magenta- 
coloured  earth,  streaked  and  spotted  with  dull  yellow-green  and  fringed 
at  their  bases  with  scanty  forest,  border  the  great  watercourse.  Beyond 
Manyanga,  however,  high  hills  approach  the  Congo,  and  once  more 
confine  its  turbulent  stream  within  narrow  limits.  The  great  falls  of 
l^tombo  Mataka  here  take  place  and  offer  the  nearest  approach  to  a 
cascade  that  this  river  exhibits.  The  two  lines  of  dazzling  white  that 
seem  like  two  successive  "  steps  "  of  water  may  be  seen  from  a  great 
distuioe  on  the  surrounding  hills.  The  backwater  that  is  here  made 
by  the  current  is  very  dangerous,  as  a  boat  crossing  the  riyer  from 
Manyanga  may  easily  be  drawn  into  it  and  carried  up  stream  to  be 
whirled  suddenly  into  the  cataract. 

There  are  two  roads  hence  to  Stanley  Pool  between  whidi  to  choose 
(for  you  can  no  longer  follow  the  river  by  water),  one  on  the  north  and 
one  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Congo.  That  on  the  south  bank  is  usually 
preferred  as  being  shorter  and  leading  through  pleasanter  country. 
From  the  high  plateaux  beyond  Lut^t6,  a  large  native  village  near  the 
Ntombo  Mataka  Falls,  a  fine  view  may  be  obtained  of  the  Ed  win- Arnold 
river,  as  it  comes  leaping  in  tremendous  cascades  into  the  Congo.  The 
waters  of  this  stream  look  exactly  like  a  white  cloth  laid  at  intervals 
over  the  purple-wooded  hills,  for  the  distance  at  which  you  are  standing 
does  not  permit  you  to  see  the  motion  of  its  water,  and  the  sheet  of 
white  spray  is  apparently  as  still  as  if  photographed.  The  trade  route, 
one  of  the  great  ivory  roads  to  the  coast,  which  we  follow  from  Lutete 
to  Stanley  Pool,  is  strewn  with  the  top  leaves  of  pineapj^^l^  which, 
when  the  fruit  is  eaten,  are  thrown  away,  and  taking  root  in  the  rich 
red  soil  at  the  side  of  the  path,  serve  to  spread  this  plant  along  the 
whole  route  between  Stanley  Pool  and  the  coast,  in  some  places, 
especially  in  the  moist  ravines,  forming  an  almost  impenetrable  hedge 
on  each  side  of  the  narrow  path.  The  inhabitants  come  to  these  valleys 
andjfill  their  long  wicker  baskets  with  the  fruit,  which  now  forms  so 
large  a  part  of  their  diet. 

The  country  between  Lut^t^  and  Stanley  Pool  presents  many 
beautiful  landscapes.  A  great  stretch  of  valley,  filled  with  rich  forest, 
with  a  sounding  stream  that  is  seen  flashing  through  the  trees,  is 
bounded  by  boldly-shaped  hills,  between  each  of  which  lesser  valleys 
lie,  that  seem,  as  it  were,  tributaries  of  the  great  one,  some  of 
them  mere  crevasses  in  the  mountains,  but  each  with  its  tiny  stream, 
its  cascades,  and  its  velvety  woods.      Occasionally,    especially  near 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  BOLOBO.  701 

Lnt^te,  patches  are  cleared  in  the  valleys,  and  the  rich  soil  which  the 
rain  is  always  washing  down  from  the  hills  is  planted  with  manioc, 
tobacco,  ground-nuts,  and  bananas.  This  gives  at  times  a  civilised  look 
to  the  country,  and  suggests  the  idea  that  in  the  future,  when  colonists 
flock  to  occupy  the  Congo  territories,  these  lowlands  will  become  fertile 
valleys,  bringing  forth  the  products  of  the  tropics ;  while  their  hill- 
sides, terraced  and  planted  with  vines,  will  be  surmounted  with  many 
a  fine-built  habitation.  The  rounded  hills  that  encircle  these  luxuriant 
valleys  are  covered  with  strong  coarse  grasses  of  several  sorts,  of  which 
the  flower-stalks  often  attain  the  height  of  12  to  15  feet,  and  with 
gnarled  and  stunted  trees,  bearing  leaden-coloured,  almost  uneatable 
fruit — I  should  omit  the  qualifying  "  almost "  were  it  not  that  I  have  seen 
the  natives  occasionally  gnawing  them.  These  trees  are  spread  sparsely 
over  the  hillsides,  and  give  them  from  a  distance  a  spotted  appearance. 
This  difference  in  richness  of  vegetation  that  exists  between  hills  and 
valleys  in  this  part  of  Africa  is  not  due  so  much  to  the  relative  abundance 
of  moisture  as  to  the  prevailing  grass  fires  in  the  dry  season.  These 
sweep  over  the  hills,  at  times,  destroying  all  the  finer  trees,  so  that  only 
these  stunted  shrubs  and  the  rank  grass  spring  up  from  their  roots 
anew  and  flourish  for  a  season.  Therefore  it  is  that  around  the  villages 
whose  plantations  are  protected  from  the  ravages  of  the  flames,  as  far  as 
may  be  possible,  rich  forest  invariably  exists.  Again,  in  all  shut-in 
valleys  and  river-courses  where  the  fires  are  choked,  there  vegetation  of 
the  most  wonderful  character  riots  in  all  the  wild  luxuriance  of  its 
unchecked  growth. 

About  noon  on  the  third  day  after  leaving  Lut^te,  I  came  to  the 
banks  of  the  Inkissi,  and  had  to  cross  that  swift,  rolling,  turbid  stream  in 
native  canoes.  The  natives  always  land  much  lower  down  the  river 
than  the  place  where  they  embark,  for  the  current  is  so  swift  that  it  is 
impossible  to  entirely  withstand  its  influence.  It  is  here  about  as  wide 
as  the  Thames  at  Windsor. 

Some  little  distance  before  Stanley  Pool  is  reached,  there  is  a  smaller 
widening  of  the  Congo  with  two  or  three  large  islands  in  the  centre,  and 
where  the  river  has  three  successive  falls,  called  by  the  natives  the 
Father,  Mother,  and  Child.  They  are  called  the  "  Itsi "  Cataracts  on  some 
maps.  "  Itsi  "  is  only  one  of  the  many  words  in  the  Congo  dialect  for  a 
rapid  or  fall,  and  in  these  tongues  there  are  terms  to  express  most  of  the 
effects  of  falling  or  troubled  water.  Ngoma,  Ntombo,  Yellala,  are  all 
descriptive  names,  and  one  word,  Mputo,  which  really  means  troubled 
water,  is  oftep  for  that  reason  applied  to  the  sea,  and  in  a  more  abstract 
sense  to  those  who  come  from  the  sea,  viz.  the  Europeans.  The  old 
term  Mw6ne  Mputo  applied  by  the  natives  of  the  interior  to  the)  great 
chief  of  all  white  men,  does  not,  as  the  Portuguese  would  have  us 
believe,  mean  the  King  of  Portugal,  but  literally  "  child  of  the  sea." 

The  great  expansion  of  the  Congo  at  Stanley  Pool  I  have  already 


702  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  BOLOBO. 

treated  of  in  my  former  paper,  so  I  will  not  repeat  here  a  detailed  deacrip' 
tion  of  this  beautiful  lake,  with  its  forest-clad  islands,  its  placid  waters, 
and  its  wooded  cliffs.  Although  the  north-eastern  end  is  shut  in  by- 
high  hills,  the  mountains  do  not  encircle  the  expanse  of  water  bat 
retreat  from  it  on  both  sides,  and  the  level  plains  that  stretch  away  for 
some  miles  to  the  south  of  Stanley  Pool  at  but  a  few  feet  above  the 
water,  give  one  the  idea  that  it  is  somewhat  shrunken  in  extent. 

On  ascending  the  Congo  higher  than  Stanley  Pool,  the  scenery 
becomes  very  much  more  tropical  than  amid  the  ratber  denuded,  rocky 
country  of  the  cataracts.  We  are  now  entering  the  forest  region,  and 
the  vegetation  has  attained  a  greater  richness  and  development  and 
variety  of  forms  than  below  the  PooL  Many  new  species  of  plants, 
new  trees,  new  palms,  make  their  appearance,  together  with  birds  and 
butterflies  of  the  forest  country.  The  banks  continue  to  be  high,  and 
are  densely  wooded,  but  often  the  river  is  closely  shut  in,  and  although  the 
region  of  the  cataracts  may  be  said  to  be  past,  or,  in  descending  the  river, 
not  yet  begun,  still  there  are  occasional  rapids  and  scattered  rocks  that 
suggest  the  fact  that  there  were  once  cataracts  above  Stanley  Pool.  The 
current  in  the  centre  of  the  river  is  so  strong  and  so  beset  with  whirl- 
pools as  to  be  dangerous  to  native  canoes  or  small  boats.  A  few  islands 
occasionally  stud  the  stream,  one  of  them,  Flamini  Island,  being  covered 
with  nearly  2000  Hypheene  palms ;  but  as  a  rule  the  course  of  the  river 
is  pretty  clear  and  its  breadth  an  average  1000  yards  until  after  the 
oonfluenoe  of  the  Wabuma-Kwango.  Both  this  latter  river  and  the 
Alima  have  their  outlets  much  impeded  by  sandbanks.  The  upper 
course  of  the  Wabuma  much  resembles  the  Gongo.  It  flows  out  of  Lake 
Leopold  II.,  then  broadens  out  greatly  in  a  flat  country  of  dense  forest,  and 
is  covered  with  many  islands.  It  narrows  again  where  it  receives  the  great 
Ewango  from  Angola,  and  the  embouchure  of  these  two  great  rivers  united 
is  somewhat  insignificant.  Their  waters  flow  for  some  time  side  by  n'de 
without  mingling  with  those  of  the  Congo.  Some  distance  before  BS16M 
is  reached,  the  Congo  has  commenced  to  broaden  greatly,  and  the  efibct 
at  times  seemed  to  me  as  if  I  were  entering  upon  a  great  boundless  lake, 
for  there  is  often  a  clear  horizon  of  water.  At  times  the  two  distant 
shores  are  hidden  by  islands  which  appear  like  the  mainland,  so  that  the 
immensity  of  the  stream  is  not  always  apparent.  But  although  very 
broad,  it  is  in  parts,  away  from  the  central  current,  very  shallow  and 
needs  careful  navigation  to  avoid  the  many  hidden  sandbanks.  The 
hills  that  have  hitherto  accompanied  the  stream  trend  away  to  the  north, 
and  we  are  at  last  in  the  great  central  basin  of  Africa  and  in  the  dense 
forest  belt. 

The  climate  of  the  Western  Congo  naturally  varies  in  different 
degrees  of  healthiness  and  temperature  according  to  the  regions  through 
which  the  river  passes,  but  on  the  whole  it  may  be  said  to  be  infinitely 
superior  to  that  of  the  Niger  or  the  Gold  Coast.    The  great  absence  of 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  b6l6b6.  703 

low,  marshy  gronnd  about  its  banks  is  donbtless  the  cause  of  less  virulent 
fever,  and  the  regular  cool  breezes  from  the  South  Atlantic  greatly 
reduce  the  tropical  heat.  The  river  probably  is  least  healthy  between 
Boma  and  the  sea,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the  mangrove  swamps  that 
inevitably  attend  the  widening  out  of  the  embouchure.  Boma  itself  is 
decidedly  insalubrious.  It  is  the  hottest  place  on  the  Congo,  and  sur- 
rounded by  many  marshes.  Towards  Vivi  it  becomes  decidedly  cooler, 
owing  to  the  greater  elevation ;  and  the  higher  you  proceed  up  the  river, 
the  healthier  the  climate  becomes.  One  aid  to  health  is  the  magnificent 
drinking  water  that  may  be  had  everywhere  above  Boma;  not  the  water 
of  the  Congo — ^which,  though  wholesome,  has  a  disagreeably  sweet  taste 
— but  the  water  from  the  unnumbered  rills  and  rivulets  which  are 
everywhere  trickling,  wet  and  dry  season  alike,  all  the  year  round. 
Consequently  dysentery  is  almost  unknown  above  Vivi.  The  most  pre- 
valent form  of  sickness  is  the  ordinary  African  fever  from  over-exposure 
to  the  sun  and  sudden  chills.  The  most  dangerous  malady  is  bilious 
fever,  the  "  febre  pemiciosa "  of  the  Portuguese,  but  this  is  rarely  in- 
curred without  much  previous  neglect  of  one's  health.  Beyond  Stanley 
Pool,  I  can  only  call  the  temperature  delightful.  It  ranges,  at  such 
a  place  as  Msuata  for  instance,  from  87°  in  the  shade  at  noon  to  60°  at 
two  in  the  morning,  and  this  in  the  rainy  or  hot  season.  The  highest 
temperature  I  have  ever  observed  at  Vivi  was  98°  in  the  shade,  on  a  very 
hot  day.  It  is  quite  possible  to  walk  about  all  through  the  middle  of 
the  day  and  not  feel  the  heat  disagreeable,  provided  you  wear  a  helmet 
and  carry  an  umbrella ;  but  when  you  see,  as  I  have  seen,  young  men 
newly  arrived  from  Europe  exposing  themselves  to  the  noonday  sun 
with  nothing  but  a  smoking-cap  on  their  heads,  you  will  hardly  be  sur- 
prised that  occasionally  deaths  from  sunstroke  take  place.  And  then 
the  relatives  of  these  victims  to  their  own  imprudence  write  to  the 
papers,  especially  in  Belgium,  and  speak  of  the  cruel  African  Minotaur 
and  its  meal  of  white  fiesh ! 

The  relative  length  of  the  rainy  season  also  varies  as  you  advance 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Congo  towards  the  equator.  Near  the  sea  there 
are  a'bout  four  months  of  rain — ^November,  December,  February,  and 
March,  with  an  intermediate  dry  season  in  the  month  of  January ;  but 
ascending  the  river  yon  find  this  gradually  altering,  and  on  Stanley  Pool 
the  rains  commence  in  October  and  continue  till  about  the  20th  of  May, 
thus  leaving  little  more  than  four  months  of  dry  season.  There  is 
also  here  no  interval  in  January,  no  "  little  dries,"  as  they  are  called. 
Higher  up  the  river  still,  approaching  the  equator,  the  natives  tell 
me  it  rains  often  in  June,  August,  and  September,  so  that  this  may  be 
called  a  true  equatorial  climate,  where  rain  is  seldom  absent,  and  con- 
sequently, as  we  find  at  B616b6,  this  is  the  region  of  perpetual  forest. 
The  reason  this  forest  belt  does  not  extend  more  fully  over  Africa  is 
that  where  there  is  a  continuous  dry  season  of  four,  five,  or  six  months. 


704  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B(^L(5b6. 

there  is  time  for  the  long  grkaa  to  become  thoroughly  tindered  by  tbe 
sun,  and  the  natives  can  then  more  easily  set  going  the  great  buBh- 
fires,  in  which  they  delight,  which  clear  the  ground  for  their  plantation^ 
and  at  the  same  time  sweep  the  forest  from  the  hills.  In  the  equatorial 
regions  of  perpetual  moisture  this  is  impossible,  and  so  the  forest  countiy 
there  with  its  somewhat  peculiar  fauna  and  avi-fauna  continues  to  repte- 
sent  a  condition  of  things  which  probably  existed  more  widely  over 
Africa  before  the  advent  of  man.  After  all,  this  open  country  is  far 
healthier  than  the  dense  forest. 

The  fauna  and  flora  of  the  Congo  region  between  the  Stanley  Falb, 
which  lie  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  continent,  and  the  coast,  are  by  no 
means  uniform,  and  may  be  said  to  offer  three  distinct  aspects,  caused 
by  the  character  of  the  regions  through  which  the  Congo  flows. 

What  may  be  known  as  the  first  region  extends  from  the  sea-ooast 
some  eighty  miles  at  most  inland,  and  belongs  to  the  marshy  forest 
country.  This  swampy  area,  where  mammals  and  birds  are  remarkable 
for  their  peculiar  forms  rather  than  for  richness  in  speciee,  prevails 
along  the  lower  river  uninterruptedly  from  the  coast  as  far  as  Ponta 
da  Lenha,  about  fifty  miles  from  the  sea,  and  farther  extends,  somewhat 
modified  in  character,  to  Boma  and  beyond,  where  it  insensibly  minglea 
with  the  next,  or  "cataract"  region,  which  is  characteristic  of  the 
parallel  mountain  chains  extending  from  the  Upper  Ogow6  right  down 
the  continent  into  Southern  Angola,  and  separating  the  central  platean 
or  basin  of  tropical  Africa  from  the  strip  of  low-lying  ooast  land 
bordering  the  sea.  In  this  mountain  district,  which  commences  some 
little  distance  beyond  Boma,  and  may  be  said  to  include  all  the  cataracts 
or  rapids  of  the  Congo  as  far  as  Stanley  Pool,  the  fauna  and  flora  are  of 
a  more  generalised  type  than  those  of  the  first  and  third  regions,  and 
partake  more  of  the  fauna  and  flora  prevailing  in  Angola  or  Lower 
Guinea.  Finally,  the  influence  of  this  somewhat  poor  region  of  stony 
hills  and  rocky  boulders  fades  away  before  the  splendid  richness  of  the 
central  plateau,  and  at  Stanley  Pool  new  forms  characteristio  of  Central 
Equatorial  Africa  make  their  appearance ;  and  so  abrupt  is  the  change, 
that  the  upper  end  of  Stanley  Pool  more,  resembles  the  regions  of  tiie 
Welle  and  the  western  littoral  of  Tanganyika  in  its  natural  history, 
especially  in  its  flora,  than  the  tract  of  country  20  miles  off,  which 
begins  with  the  first  cataract  at  the  lower  end  of  the  Pool.  Though  I 
have  not  myself  penetrated  farther  than  about  2°  30'  S.  of  the  equator, 
yet  by  comparing  my  observations  with  those  of  Stanley  along  the 
Upper  Congo,  and  Schweinforth  on  the  Well6,  I  have  arrived  at  the 
conclusion  that  there  is  no  sensible  difference  in  the  fauna  and  flora 
throughout  the  great  basin  in  which  the  Congo  flows  between  Stanley 
Pool  and  the  Stanley  Falls ;  nay,  that  over  that  vast  tract  of  country 
there  is  more  uniformity  in  forms  of  life  than  between  the  cataract 
region  and  the  coast.   It  is  an  erroneous  idea  that  the  Congo  is  a  natural 


\ 


THE  RIVER  COSaO,  FROM  ITS  HODTH  TO  BOLOBO. 


\ 


boTindaiy  in  the  distribution  of  certain  forms,  or  that  it  even  acts  as  »y 
limitation  southwards  of  the  so-called  West  African  region.  I  have  read 
in  many  works  on  Africa,  or  on  the  distribution  of  plants  and  animals, 
that  the  Congo  was  the  southern  boundary  of  the  habitat  of  the  grey 
parrot,  the  anthropoid  apes,  and  the  oil-palm  {Elais  gutneensis).  Now 
the  grey  parrot  reaches  perhaps  its  greatest  development  in  Malanje,  a 
district  of  Angola  nearly  300  miles  south  of  the  Congo,  and,  together 
with  the  oil-palm,  continues  to  be  found  as  far  as  the  tenth  degree  south 
of  the  equator;  while  the  anthropoid  apes  can  hardly  be  said  to  be 
limited  southward  in  their  distribution  by  the  river  Congd,  for  they  do 
not  reach  even  to  its  northern  bank,  or  approach  it  nearer  than  Landana, 
100  miles  away.  Near  the  equator  it  is  possible  that  gorillas  are  found 
both  north  and  south  of  the  Congo,  and  we  know  that  a  species  of 
anthropoid  ape  is  found  to  the  west  of  the  Lualaba  at  Nyangwe.  Again, 
the  harnessed  antelope  {Tragelaphus  scriptus)  and  the  red  buffalo  {Boi 
hrachyceros\  both  supposed  to  be  purely  West  African,  or  "  Cis-Congo " 
forms,  are  found  on  the  Quanza  river,  which  lies  from  200  to  300  miles 
southward  of  the  Congo,  while  other  West  African  species  do  not 
extend  beyond  the  equator,  and  therefore  are  unknown  along  the  Congo 
in  its  lower  course.  The  beautifnl  flower  called  Camoensia,  which  was 
thought  by  Welwitsch  and  Monteiro  to  be  confined  to  Angola,  I  have 
seen  growing  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Congo  between  Vivi  and 
Manyanga.  In  short,  I  have  never  seen  any  difference  between  the 
fauna  and  flora  of  the  northern  and  southern  banks  of  this  great  river; 
nor  do  I  believe  that  it  acts  in  any  way  as  a  limitation  to  the  range  of 
species. 

The  races  of  man  that  inhabit  the  basin  of  the  Congo  throughout  its 
entire  course — certainly  in  all  that  part  of  it  that  I  have  visited — belong 
exclusively  to  that  great  Bantu  family  which  is  so  distinct  from  the 
true  Negro.  The  adverb  "  exclusively "  can  only  be  modified  if  it  be 
found  that  the  dwarf  races  which  are  known  to  inhabit  part  of  the 
country  that  comes  within  the  Congo  basin,  can  be  proved  to  belong  to  a 
distinct  variety  of  mankind.  It  is  possible  they  may  ;  but  until  this  is 
done,  I  shall  still  assert  that 'the  races  inhabiting  the  Lualaba-Congo 
from  Lake  Bangweolo  to  Stanley  Pool  are  Bantu  of  the  purest  type. 
Nearing  the  coast,  the  tribes  begin  to  lose  their  distinctive  character, 
either  through  the  degradation  the  coast  climate  seems  to  entail,  or 
because  they  originally  met  and  mixed  with,  on  the  low-lying  coast- 
lands,  an  earlier  negro  population.  This  latter  supposition  sometimes 
strikes  me  as  being  the  true  one,  because  in  such  a  littoral  tribe  as  the 
Kabinda  or  Loango  people  there  are  distinctly  two  types  of  race.  One, 
the  Bantu — a  fine,  tall,  upright  man,  with  delicately  small  hands  and 
well-shaped  feet,  a  fine  face,  high,  thin  nose,  beard,  moustache,  and 
a  plentiful  crop  of  hair;  the  other  an  ill-shaped,  loosely-made  figure, 
with  splay  feet,  high  calves,  a  retreating  chin,  blubber  lips,  no  hair 

No.  Xn.— Dko.  1883.]  3  a 


^6  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  b6l6bO. 

abont  the  face,  and  the  wool  on  his  head  close  and  crisply  curled.  The 
farther  you  go  into  the  interior,  the  finer  the  type  becomes.  Such  men 
as  the  Ba-yansi  of  B6l6h6  are  perfect  Greek  statues  in  the  develop- 
ment and  poise  of  their  forms,  and  two  points  abont  them  contrast 
very  favourably  with  most  of  the  coast  races,  namely  their  lighter 
colour  —  generally  a  warm  chocolate — and  their  freedom  from  tiiat 
offensive  smell  which  is  supposed,  wrongly,  to  characterise  most 
Africans.  Many  other  details  show  the  comparatively  high  status  of 
the  Upper  Congo  tribes :  their  small  hands  and  feet,  their  well-shaped 
legs  with  ful  calves,  and  their  abundant  heads  of  hair.  It  is  true  that 
the  arms  are  often  very  long,  which  is  thought  to  be  a  sign  of  a  bw 
type,  but  this  is  a  characteristic  that  is  not  always  persistent. 

The  principal  tribes  to  be  encountered  in  ascending  the  Congo  to  the 
equator  are,  commencing  at  the  mouth,  the  Ka-kongo  (Eabindas  and 
others),  Mushirongos,  Ba-kongo,  Ba-sundi,  Wa-buno,  Ba-bwende,  Ba-t&6, 
Wa-buma,  Ba-nunu,  and  Ba-yansi.    Of  these  the  Kabindas  or  Ka-kongo 
people  have  been  already  touched  on,  and  I  might  mention  farther  that 
they  are  the  Kmmen  of  the  south,  hiring  themselvra  out  in  all  direc- 
tions as  servants,  sailors,  labourers,  and  affecting  more  particularly  the 
Portuguese  colonies,  which  they  overrun  as  far  as  Mossamedes,  in- 
variably returning  home  after  a  time  to  spend  their  earnings.    The 
Mushirongos,  or  more  properly  Mushikongos,  are  an  ugly  and  degraded 
set,  coming  little  into  contact  with  the  whites.    Then  we  arrive  at  the 
great  Ba-kongo  tribe,  the  once  ruling  race  of  this  part  of  the  river,  whose 
king  or  emperor  still  lingers  on  at  Sao  Salvador.    Their  dialect  bears 
many  traces  of  their  ancient  dealings  with  the  Portuguese,  many  woids 
of  that  language  being  incorporated  to  express  new  concepts  introduced 
by  the  white  man.     I  might  mention,  in  parenthesis,  that  a  few  words 
of  Portuguese  have  even  penetrated  into  the  dialects  of  the  Ba-yansi,  so 
great  was  the  influence  exercised  by  Portugal,  originally,   over  the 
Lower  Congo.     The  next  tribe,  the  Ba-sundi,   offer  certain  curioiu 
customs  and  dances  which  I  have  not  time  now  to  treat  in  detail.   They 
and  the  Ba-bwende  are  somewhat  less  kindly  and  peaceful  than  the  other 
Congo  tribes.     The  Wa-buno,  on  the  other  hand,  are  gentle  and  winning 
in  their  manners.     Then  we  arrive  at  Stanley  Pool  and  the  now  well- 
known  tribe  of  the  Ba-t6k6,  .which  first  make  their  appearance  there. 
The  Ba-t^ke  scar   their  cheeks  with    striated  lines,  and  wear  their 
abundant  hair  in  a  variety  of  fanciful  manners,  more  frequently  strained 
over  a  hard  pad  into  a  kind  of  chignon.    The  Ba-tek6  are  comparatively 
recent  immigrants  into  the  Congo  valley,  and  as  yet  do  not  extend 
beyond  its  southern  banks.     They  come   originally  from  the  high 
plateaux  which  form  the  watershed  of  the  Ogowe,  and  the  north-western 
affluents  of  the  Congo,  and  have  advanced  towards  the  Congo  in  a  south- 
ward direction.     Their  headquarters  may  be  said  to  be  the  residence  and 
town  of  a  great  Ba-t6ke  chief,  at  present  Mpumo  Ntaba,  the  successor  of 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  B^LOBO. 

De  Brazza's  Makoko.  Along  the  Congo,  the  Ba-t^ke  often  form  alternate 
colonies  with  the  Ba-yansi,  for  the  two  races  overlap  one  another. 

Ascending  to  the  Wabuma  river,  we  come  upon  the  tribe  of  the  same 
name,  which  inhabits  the  lower  waters  of  that  great  river.  They  are 
doubtless  the  same  people  as  the  Aboma  found  by  De  Brazza  near  the 
Alima.  The  Wa-buma  are  a  gentle,  inoffensive  race,  living  on  the  best 
of  terms  with  their  more  intelligent  neighbours  the  Ba-tek6  and  the 
Ba-yansi.  This  latter  race  is  the  most  highly  developed  I  have  yet  met 
with  on  the  Congo.  They  inhabit  the  river  from  the  equator  to  the 
Wabuma,  but  extend  their  colonies  even  farther  down  th»  river.  They 
are  the  great  carriers  of  the  Congo  and  regularly  traffic  between  their 
equatorial  neighbours  the  Bangala  and  the  people  of  Stanley  Pool,  who 
in  their  turn  carry  on  the  ivory  and  other  products  to  Sao  Salvador  and 
the  coast.  The  Ba-yansi  of  B616b6  have  a  decided  indigenous  civilisation 
of  their  own.  Their  houses  are  large,  and  fEorly  high,  and  divided  into 
three  or  more  rooms,  the  floor  often  being  covered  with  clean  mattings 
and  the  door,  made  of  laths  and  matting,  can  be  swung  backwards  and 
forwards  on  a  rude  hinge.  Their  pottery,  their  weaving,  their  wonder- 
ful power  of  artistic  decoration,  their  metal-work  in  iron  and  copper, 
their  attempts  at  husbandry  and  their  contrivances  for  fishing  and  bird-^ 
trapping  all  show  a  great  advance  on  the  tribes  of  the  lower  river. 
I  like  the  Ba-yansL  There  is  something  so  genial,  merry,  and  hospitable 
about  them,  and  they  are  so  quick  and  free  to  understand  a  white  man's- 
ways.  A  Mu-yansi  is  a  man  of  the  world,  a  great  traveller  himself,  and 
&ee  from  prejudices  and  superstitions.  In  fact  the  few  remains  of 
fetish  and  other  ceremonies  that  remain  among  them  they  half  apologise 
for.  I  came  across  none  of  that  powon-water  ordeal  amongst  them  that 
is  so  prevalent  with  the  coast  races  ;  I  do  not  say  it  does  not  exist,  but 
I  never  observed  it.  The  chief  of  B6l6b6,  Ibaka,  is  a  great  Ba-yansi 
chief,  and  his  sovereignty  is  hereditary  and  his  family  is  considered 
royal  eVen  in  its  collateral  branches.  He  rules  over  a  large  and  thickly 
inhabited  strip  of  the  river  about  70  miles  in  length,  of  uncertain  w^dth, 
and  with  a  population  of  about  20,000  people. 

The  languages  of  these  three  tribes,  the  Ba-yansi,  Ba-t^ke,  and 
Wa-buma,  are  Bantu  of  the  purest  type.  That  of  the  Wa-buma,  however, 
has  undergone  a  slight  degradation  in  its  prefixes,  and  has  acquired  a 
strange  guttural  sound  resembling  the  Arabic  ghain.  In  Ba-tek6  and 
Ba-yansi,  or  to  speak  more  correctly,  in  Ki-tek4  and  Ki-yansi,  the 
numerals  reach  to  10,000  in  calculation ;  after  that  they  employ  a  word 
meaning  "myriads,"  or  "not  to  be  counted."  I  have  collected  full 
vocabularies  of  these  three  tongues  which  I  intend  shortly  to  publish 
and  to  which  I  must  refer  you  for  fuller  details. 

The  whole  life  of  these  people  is  simpler  and  broader  than  among 
the  coast  tribes,  and  they  have  far  fewer  intricate  religious  customs  or 
peculiar  observances.     In  fact  they  may  almost  be  said  to  have  no 

3  A  2 


/ 


J  THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  BOLOBO. 

religion  at  all  beyond  ancestor-worsliip  and  the  propitiation  of  evil 
spirits.  But  their  languages  betray  that  they  had,  in  a  lower  stage,  a 
very  complicated  system  of  theology,  like  most  low  tribes,  and  that 
their  dispersal  from  their  ancient  home,  their  roving  habits,  and  their 
mixing  with  other  tribes  and  other  gods  have  probably  reduced  them  to 
the  state  of  genial  agnosticism  in  which  they  now  live. 

A  few  words  as  to  their  domestic  animals  may  be  of  interest. 
The  ox  is  unknown,  and  his  old  classical  Bantu  name  ngombu  or 
ngomhe  is  applied  in  the  Ba-yansi  tongue  to  the  bufialo.  The  domestic 
pig  is  largely  kept  by  the  Congo  peoples.  I  do  not  agree  with  the 
opinion  of  those  who  surmise  that  the  pig  was  originally  introduced 
into  West  Africa  and  the  Congo  regions  by  the  Portuguese.  The  pig, 
in  a  domestic  state,  extends  among  the  Bantu  races  right  across  Africa, 
and  everywhere  possesses  a  similar  name.  The  pig  in  Ei-yansi  is 
called  ngrdu,  and  in  the  Ei>swahili  of  Zanzibar  is  known  as  ngurutoe 
or  ngrdrnoe.  It  is  a  black,  bristly,  high>shouldered  beast,  very  like 
the  Irish  greyhound  pig.  Like  most  African  domestic  animals  it  pro- 
bably had  an  Asiatic  origin.  The  sheep  is  rarely  met  with  beyond 
Stanley  Fool,  still  it  is  known  and  named.  It  belongs  to  the  Centcal 
African  type — a  hairy  sheep  with  small  horns,  and  a  magnificent  mane 
in  the  ram,  which  extends  from  the  chin  to  the  stomach,  and  greatly 
resembles  the  same  appendage  in  the  aoudad,  or  wild  sheep  of  Northern 
Africa.  I  do  not  believe,  however,  that  this  domestic  sheep  of  Central 
Africa  had  its  origin  in  this  mouflon  a  piancheltes  of  Algeria.  On 
the  contrary,  the  ewe,  which  has  no  mane,  and  the  young  maneless  rams 
exactly  resemble  certain  breeds  of  Persian  sheep,  like  which  they  are 
pied  black  and  white  in  colour.  The  goat  of  the  Congo  is  a  little,  com- 
pactly-built animal,  short  on  the  legs  and  very  fat.  The  females  make 
excellent  milch  goats,  and  their  milk  is  a  most  delicious  and  wholesome 
addition  to  one's  diet.  The  general  type  of  dog  on  the  Upper  Congo 
(on  the  lower  river  it  is  much  mixed  with  European  races  introduced 
by  the  Portuguese)  is  simply  our  old  friend  the  pariah  dog  of  India  and 
the  East  over  again,  with  a  look  of  the  dingo  and  the  wild  dog  of 
Sumatra  superadded.  It  has  a  foxy  head,  prick  ears,  a  smooth  fSEtwn- 
colourcd  coat,  and  a  tail  slightly  inclined  to  be  bushy,  and  is  to  my 
thinking  a  very  pretty  creature.  They  have  one  admirable  point  in 
their  character  in  that  they  never  bark,  giving  vent  only  when  very 
much  moved  to  a  long  wail  or  howl.  They  are  considered  very  dainty 
eating  by  the  natives,  and  are,  indeed,  such  a  luxury  that  by  an  un- 
written law  only  the  superior  sex,  the  men,  are  allowed  to  partake  of 
roasted  dog.  The  cats  on  the  Congo  are  lean,  long-legged,  and  ugly, 
and  offer  every  diversity  of  colour  and  marking.  Tabbies,  however,  are 
the  most  commonly  seen.  These  cats  are  splendid  mousers,  or  rather 
ratters,  and  help  to  rid  the  native  villages  of  the  small  black  rats  which 
infest  them. 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  BOLOBO. 

Pigeons  are  unknown  in  a  domestic  state.     The  fowl  is  small  an* 
mongrel-like.     It  is,  however,  very  productive.    Its  name  everywhere 
on  the  Congo  is  susu^  a  word  akin  in  origin  to  the  kuku  and  chuchi 
of  the  East  Ckmst. 

Finally,  there  exists  here  and  there  the  Muscovy  duck,  a  bird  intro- 
duced into  Western  Africa  from  Brazil  by  the  Portuguese  during  the 
seventeenth  century.  It  is  slowly  spreading  up  the  Congo,  where  it  may 
eventually  meet  the  specimens  introduced  into  Eastern  Africa  by  the 
same  people.  The  natives  of  the  Congo  also  owe  to  the  Portuguese  the 
manioc  root,  which  they  largely  cultivate  for  food,  the  sweet  potato, 
Indian  com,  pineapples,  ground-nuts,  the  sugar-cane,  oranges,  and  limes, 
all  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  the  sugar-cane,  have  come  from 
America,  and  all  of  which  owe  their  introduction  into  the  dark  and  ill- 
provided  continent  to  a  little  people  that  has  to  put  up  with  a  great 
deal  of  ingratitude  and  calumny — the  Portuguese. 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  people  have  cultivated  little  more  than 
is  just  necessary  for  their  own  subsistence,  but  now  that  Mr.  Stanley's 
expedition  is  in  the  country,  with  some  2000  people  to  be  fed,  it  has 
created  a  revolution  in  the  local  agriculture.  Many  fresh  tracts  are  now 
being  cleared  and  tilled  and  planted  with  maize,  and  Indian  com,  and 
bananas,  for  the  natives,  always  quick  to  perceive  anything  tending  to 
their  own  advantage,  have  found  a  new  and  sure  market  for  their  pro- 
ducts, and  hasten  to  avail  themselves  of  it. 

The  population  all  along  the  Congo  above  Stanley  Pool  is  very 
dense.  Towards  B616b6  there  is  scarcely  a  river-fronting  space  clear  of 
villages,  and  Mr.  Stanley  reckons  from  fuller  data  that  the  entire  popu- 
lation of  the  Congo  basin  may  possibly  amount  to  49,000,000 !  or  65  to 
the  square  mile.  These  masses  do  not  own  one  great  chief  or  emperor. 
There  is  no  analogue  to  the  Muata  Yanvo,  or  the  negro  kingdoms  further 
north.  Such  chiefs  as  Ibaka  or  Mpuma  Ntaba  may  rule  over  a  few 
thousand  subjects,  but  ordinarily  every  village  or  settlement  is  a  little 
independent  state.  Much  has  been  talked  lately  about  the  desirability 
of  introducing  some  sort  of  political  cohesion  amongst  these  tribes,  of 
inducing  them  to  band  together  into  one  great  nationality.  This  idea 
has  been  put  forward  on  high  authority,  but  I  must  presume  very 
humbly,  but  very  decidedly,  to  dissent  from  its  advisability.  What 
has  hitherto  made  Mr.  Stanley's  work  so  rapid  and  so  comparatively 
easy  has  been  the  want  of  cohesion  amongst  the  native  chiefs ;  he  has 
had  no  great  jealous  empire  to  contend  with,  as  ho  would  have  had 
further  north  or  further  south.  If  one  village  declined  to  receive  him, 
the  next  town  out  of  rivalry  received  him  with  open  arms.  There  has 
been  no  mot  d^ordre,  and  this  has  enabled  liim  to  effectually  implant 
himself  in  their  midst.  Would  you  now  hinder  this  entry  of  civilisation 
by  banding  the  native  kinglets  in  union,  union  which  would  invariably 
turn  them  with  race-jealousy  against  the  White?     No,   "Divide  et 


710         THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  b6l6b6.— DISCUSSION. 

impera,"  and  don't  make  this  great  work  dependent  on  the  capricee  of 
an  African  despot,  for  the  black  man,  though  an  admirable  subject,  can 
never  rule.  These  people  are  admirably  disposed  in  their  present  con- 
dition to  receive  civilisation,  but  the  civilisation  must  come  not  as  a 
-humble  suppliant  but  as  a  monarch.  It  must  be  able  to  inspire  respect 
as  well  as  naive  wonder,  and  this  is  what  the  expedition  as  conducted  by 
Mr.  Stanley  has  succeeded  in  doing. 

To  realise  this,  let  us  hastily  consider  the  state  of  the  Congo  only 
seven  years  ago,  and  compare  it  with  the  present  state  of  affairs.  In 
1876  the  European  merchants  had  penetrated  no  further  than  Boma, 
where  they  were,  all  established.  There  was  not  a  single  trading  station 
higher  up  the  river.  No  one  knew  anything  of  the  country  beyond 
Isangila,  except  that  the  natives  were  all  cannibals.  Then  Stanley,  after 
'first  descending  the  river,  returned  from  Europe  in  1879,  and  in  1880 
commenced  his  present  work.  What  has  he  done?  Without  a  single 
battle  with  the  natives  he  has  rendered  in  three  years  life  and  property 
so  safe  that  I  myself  could  voyage  200  miles  beyond  Stanley  Pool 
accompanied  by  only  three  Zanzibaris.  The  merchants  of  Boma,  since 
Stanley's  advent,  have  founded  fifteen  trading  stations  between  Boma 
and  the  falls  at  Yivi.  There  was  not  a  single  missionary  on  the  <3ongo 
•before  1879.  Now  there  are  three  flourishing  missions,  the  Livingstone, 
'the  Baptist,  and  the  Boman  Catholic,  with  many  stations  between 
Stanley  Fool  and  the  sea.  The  river  Niari  has  been  explored  throughoat 
its  course,  and  a  direct  route  traced  between  its  mouth  and  Stanley  Pool 
Establishments  like  Yivi  and  Leopoldville,  which  deserve  to  be  called 
«mall  towns,  have  been  created,  and  other  stations,  numbering  in  aU 
>8ome  twenty-one,  have  been  founded;  so  that  now,  between  Equator 
Station,  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  Mobindu,  and  the  coast,  there  is  a 
distance  of  over  700  miles  secured  to  civilisation,  and  offering  no  greater 
risks  to  the  traveller  than  a  journey  up  the  Bhine.  Mr.  Stanley  has 
three  steamers  on  the  upper  river,  and  a  small  fleet  of  lighters  and 
canoes.  The  native  chiefs  are  his  active  coadjutors.  He  everywhere 
keeps  the  peace,  and  is  looked  up  to  as  the  great  umpire  in  regions 
where  he  was  once  a  hunted  fugitive.  In  short,  whichever  way  our 
sympathies  may  go — and  as  Englishmen  we  ought  to  sympathise  with 
this  splendid  outlet  thrown  open  to  our  commerce — ^we  must  at  least 
admit  that  the  work  is  a  colossal  one,  and  that  the  man  who  has 
undertaken  it  has  the  indomitable  will  of  the  Anglo-Saxon. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  above  paper,  the  President  called  upon  Mr.  Van  de 
Velde,  a  Member  of  the  Belgian  International  Expedition  who  had  recently  returned 
from  the  Congo,  to  give  some  account  of  his  journeys : — 

M.  Van  de  Velde  said  he  had  spent  two  years  with  Mr.  Stanley  on  the  Congo. 
In  the  beginning  of  the  present  year  Stanley  sent  an  expedition  under  Captain  Elliot 
from  Isangila  to  explore  the  valley  of  the  Kuilu  river,  north  of  the  Congo,  a  country 
which  was  entirely  unknown.     At  the  same  time  he  (M.  Van  de  Velde)  was  sent 


THE  RIVER  CONGO,  FROM  ITS  MOUTH  TO  b6l6b6. -DISCUSSION. 


by  sea  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kuiliu  After  two  months'  travel  in  the  interior  he  : 
Captain  Elliot  at  Eitabi  between  Baudoiiinville  and  Franktown,  two  settlements 
established  by  the  Expedition  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  object  of  the  expedi- 
tions yas  to  find  a  good  overland  road  from  the  coast  to  Leopoldvillo  so  as  to  avoid 
the  cataracts  between  Stanley  Fool  and  Yivi.  Captain  Elliot  completely  explored 
the  country,  and  found  many  good  native  roads,  which  perhaps  would  be  suitable 
for  a  railway  direct  to  Stanley  Pool,  avoiding  the  cataracts  and  also  the  difficulties 
which  the  river  presents  above  them.  Other  expeditions  were  about  to  be  sent 
from  Manyanga  to  the  source  of  the  Niari  or  Euilu  so  as  to  continue  the  work  done 
by  Captain  Elliot.  Mr.  Stanley  had  also  founded  a  station  on  the  coast  at  Massabe ; 
another,  Budolfstadt,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kuilu ;  another,  Baudouinville,  at  the 
first  cataract  of  the  Niari ;  another,  Franktowo,  further  up  that  river,  and  others 
named  Stanley,  Niadi,  Stephanieville,  and  Fhilippeville.  All  these  had  been  founded 
flince  the  beginning  of  the  present  year. 

Mr.  Fbakcis  Galton  said  that  all  geographers  must  congratulate  themselves  on 
the  accession  to  their  ranks  of  so  able  a  young  traveller  as  Mr.  Johnston,  who  had 
the  power  of  graphically  describing  what  he  had  seen.  He  wished  to  ask  one  or 
two  questions.  Captain  Tuckey  in  his  return  journey  described  the  cataracts  as 
having  dwindled  down  to  nothing  more  than  the  appearance  of  a  Scotch  bum,  and 
stated  that  at  that  season  of  the  year  the  volume  of  water  passed  underground, 
giving  a  very  strange  notion  of  the  cavernous  character  of  its  stony  bed.  He  wished 
to  know  what  modem  travellers  on  the  Congo  had  to  say  about  that  statement. 
Another  point  on  which  he  wished  for  information  was  this.  In  the  old  days  of 
the  slave  trade,  the  men  most  stunted  in  growth  and  most  peculiarly  negro  in 
appearance  were  said  to  come  from  Ambriz.  It  was  known  that  a  little  inland  the 
races  were  of  a  very  much  higher  order,  and  Mr.  Johnston  had  spoken  of  a  perfect 
man  of  the  world,  of  high  intelligence,  and  free  from  superstition,  who  lived  less 
than  300  miles  from  Ambriz.  He  wished  to  know  where  the  lower  race  yielded  to 
the  higher  one,  and  whether  the  transition  was  abrupt  or  gradual.  It  wonld  also  be 
highly  interesting  to  himself  to  learn  from  Mr.  Johnston,  who  had  had  the  singular 
opportunity  of  comparing  the  races  on  the  higher  Congo  with  those  on  the  Cun^^, 
what  he  considered  to  be  their  relative  capacity  and  worth. 

Mr.  JoHKBToy  in  reply  said  he  saw  the  Falls  in  the  full  height  of  the  rainy 
season,  when  they  were  supposed  to  present  their  most  imposing  appearance.  He 
ehould  think  it  highly  improbable  that  the  volume  of  water  ever  passed  underground. 
In  the  dry  season  the  width  of  the  Congo  was  very  much  decreased,  and  as  many  of 
the  worst  rocks  were  at  the  sides  of  the  river  the  water  flowed  between  them  with 
less  opposition  than  in  full  flood.  With  regard  to  the  natives,  Stanley  Pool  formed 
&  sharp  line  of  demarcation.  Numerous  Bantu  races  were  there  met  with,  but  the 
type  became  lower  as  the  coast  was  approached.  He  had  a  very  high  opinion  of  the 
tribes  on  the  Cun^n^,  the  Ovampos,  but  they  were  not  half  so  developed  in  intellect 
as  the  tribes  on  the  Upper  Congo.  Physically  they  were  very  much  alike.  As 
Mr.  Galton  knew,  there  was  a  great  similarity  between  the  languages,  so  much  so 
that  the  men  from  the  east  coast  could  often  make  themselves  understood  among  the 
tribes  of  the  Congo. 


(    712    ) 

Notes  on  the  Miver  Mandy  or  KarorAghatch  (theSiiakos  oj  the  AncienU) 
in  Southern  Persia. 

By  Lieut-Col.  E.  0.  Boss,  H.M.  Political  Resident,  Peisian  Giilfl 

A  RIVER  which  greatly  interests  us,  from  the  absence  hitherto  of  all 
accurate  information  about  its  real  course  and  termination,  is  what,  for 
want  of  any  general  modem  name,  I  may  call  the  ancient  Sitakan  ot 
Sitakos,  and  which  at  its  upper  part  is  named,  in  Major  St.  John's  map, 
the  Kara-Aghatch  (signifying  "  black-wood  ").  The  identity  of  this  with 
the  river  which  flows,  under  the  name  of  the  Mand  or  Mund,  or  Kokee 
Bivcr,  into  the  Khor  Ziaret,  in  Dashti,  may  now  be  confidently  asserted. 
It  has,  as  laid  down  on  the  Haji's  map,  a  course  of  at  least  300  miles, 
and  no  doubt,  if  followed  up  from  mouth  to  source,  the  distance  would 
be  found  much  greater. 

The  source  of  this  considerable  river  is  near  Kodiyan,  north-west  of 
Shiraz.  My  personal  acquaintance  with  it  consists  in  having,  in  oommoD 
with  all  travellers  along  the  Bushire-Shiraz  road,  crossed  it  at  Ehan>i- 
Zinyan,  and  again  at  Eewar,  where  it  is  known  as  the  Kewar  Biver.  I 
also  explored  the  creek  of  Ehor  Ziaret,  where  it  debouches  for  12  miles. 
Other  European  travellers  who  have  crossed  the  same  river  axe  M. 
Bivadeneyra,  in  1875,  at  Taduan,  and  before  him  Keith  Abbott,  at  a 
point  still  further  south,  in  the  Kir  district.  Thence  its  career  has  been 
matter  of  conjecture,  and  it  is  only  by  the  Haji*s  map  that  the  gap  is 
filled.  The  accompanying  sketch  of  the  river  and  its  affluents  is  from 
that  source. 

With  regard  to  the  origin  of  the  name  Kara-Aghatch.  No  district 
of  precisely  this  name  having  been  known  by  European  geographen 
hitherto,  the  derivation  of  the  term,  as  applied  to  the  river,  has  been 
in  doubt.  The  Persian  map  of  Haji  Mirza  Seyyid  Hassan,  however, 
has  a   locality  south-east  of  Karzin  named  "  Sahra-i-Karah-Aghaj,** 

\i.\   i(  y5  ^  yS^Lta-   I  gather  from  a  communication  from  Dr.  Andreas, 

wtich  is  given  below,  that  the  form  "  Karah-Aghaj "  is  correct,  and 
further  that  besides  the  primary  meaning  of  "  black- wood,"  the  term 
also  applies  to  the  "  elm-tree."  "  Sahra-i-Karah-Aghaj  "  may  therefore 
be  rendered  as  "  Elm-tree  Plain." 

The  following  is  the  very  interesting  communication  on  this  subject 
from  Dr.  Andreas  above  alluded  to ;  I  give  it  in  his  own  words,  being 
responsible  myself  only  for  the  English  rendering  of  the  quotations 
from  the  Arabic  authors. 

"  The  name  of  the  Kara-Aghatch  Biver  *  is  explained  by  the  people, 
even  without  asking  them,  by  '  Chob-i-Siyuh,*  i.  e.  black-wood,  which 

*  A  looiility  named  Eara-Agbatch  is  also  found  in  the  Sarliad  of  the  Ka«hgai  niar 
Dana.— F.  C.  A. 


714  KOTES  ON  THE  RIVER  HAND,  IN  SODT..ERN  PEKSIA. 

is  a  literal  translation  of  tlio  Turkisli  name ;  but  besides  this  literal 
meaning,  * Karab-Aghaj  '  is  the  Turkish  name  for  the  elm-tree  (Ulnuu). 
As  far  as  known,  there  is  near  the  river  no  district  or  place  which  is 
called  Kara-Aghatch,  and  from  which  its  name  could  have  been  derived. 
But  I  think  that  the  name  must  have  originated  from  the  fact  that  at 
some  place  near  the  river,  most  probably  near  its  source,  a  greater 
number  of  elms  is  to  bo  found,  or  was  so  in  former  times.  An  example 
of  a  Ipcality  named  after  trees  of  which  now  not  a  single  one  is  any- 
where to  be  found,  is  the  •  Desht-i-Safiddar ' — 'the  Plain  of  Poplars' 
— in  the  country  of  the  Eustam  Mammassani.  With  the  exception  of 
two  or  three  solitary  willow-trees,  not  a  single  tree  is  now  to  be  seen  in 
this  place. 

"  The  sources  of  the  Kara-Aghatch  Biver  are  to  be  found  in  a  locality, 
as  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  ascertain,  without  fixed  habitations,  called 
Bun-ru,  i.  e.  Bun-rud,  a  name  sufficiently  significant,  and  visited  by 
members  of  the  small  group  Of  Iliyat  tribes  known  by  the  name  of 
Chehar-Bonicheh.* 

"The  most  important  fact  which  I  have  ascertained  through  the 
information  I  have  collected  in  different  parts  of  the  country  is  the 
identity  of  the  Kara-Aghatch  River  and  of  the  Khor-i-Ziaret,  or,  as  it  is 
called  in  the  Dashti,  the  Mund  River,  and  I  hope  to  have  the  opportunity 
of  proving  by  actual  survey  the  justness  of  my  conjecture.  Abbott  for- 
merly suggested  that  it  falls  into  the  Persian  Gulf  between  Kenghan 
and  Assalu,  and  St.  John  points  out '  Bardistan '  as  the  most  probable 
locality ;  but  the  right  thing  was  already  suggested  by  Kiepert,  in  his 
map  of  Western  Persia,  published  in  1851. 

"  Captain  Durand  has  shown  me  the  map  which  accompanies  yonr 
report  of  your  trip  to  Shiraz.  I  see  thereby  that  you  too  conaider  the 
*  Kara-Aghach '  and  the  '  BLhor-Ziaret '  or  *  Mund '  to  be  the  same  river. 

"  With  regard  to  the  names  by  which  the  Kara-Aghatch  river  was 
designated  in  ancient  and  medisBval  times,  I  have  collected,  as  far  as  it  is 
possible  without  a  library,  all  the  passages  and  combined  them  together. 

"  The  earliest  mention  of  it  occurs  in  reference  to  the  voyage  under- 
taken by  the  fleet  of  Alexander  the  Great  from  the  Indus  to  the 
Euphrates,  of  which  two  accounts  existed  in  ancient  times,  one  by  the 
admiral  of  the  fleet,  Nearchus,  the  other  by  the  pilot  of  the  fleet, 
Onesicritus.  In  the  first,  an  extract  of  which  is  preserved  in  Arrian's 
*Indica,'  the  Kara-Aghatch  River  is  called  (chap.  38)  *Sitakns.*t 
In  the  second,  from  which  Pliny  t   has  borrowed  some  details,  not 

*  They  comprise  the  Korani  (Rorooni),  i.  e.  Bunrui,  the  Zanganah,  the  Ardubiri, 
and  Vanda.  The  former  two  belong  to  the  Lak  tribes,  the  latter  two  are  Lure.  The 
Ghehar-Bonichali  generally  join  the  Kaahgai. — F.  C.  A. 

t  This,  and  not  Silakus,  la  the  tme  reading,  t  and  /  being  often  confounded  in 
Greek  MSB.— F.  0.  A. 

X  Nat.  Hist.,  vi.  26. 


NOTES  ON  THE  RIVER  HAND,  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 

directly,  but  eecondhand,  from  a  book  of  King  Juba,  the  name  assumes 
a  sKghtly  different  form,  *  Sitioganus.'  *  The  difference  of  the  names 
'Sitakos'  and  *  Sitioganns  *  is  easily  accounted  for.  It  frequently 
happens  that  Greek  writers,  when  they  come  across  a  foreign  name 
which  in  its  form  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  oblique  case  of  a  Greek 
noun,  transform  it  into  a  corresponding  Greek  nominative.  In  this  case 
Nearchus,  no  doubt,  heard  the  name  pronounced  *  Si  taken  *  or  *  Sitakon,* 

and  this  would  be  in  Persian    ^  \^««. .  ..  *  Sitakan,'  and  he  himself,  or 

perhaps  Arrian,  accordingly  fomied  a  nominative  '  Sitakos.*  In  'Sitio- 
ganus '  the  tuid&  Latin  ending.  The  g  instead  of  k  is  due  to  a  phonetic 
change  very  common  in  Persian,  and  can  only  be  looked  upon  as  a 
difference  in  pronunciation;  the  only  real  difference  consists  in  the 
•  following  the  /,  but  here  a  very  simple  and  easy  emendation  gives  the 
right  form,  viz.  instead  of  *  Sitioganos '  read  *  Sittoganos.'  This  form 
with  double  t  will  be  supported  by  another  combination  to  be  mentioned 
farther  on;  so  that  Onesicritus  has  been  a  trifle  more  accurate  than 
Nearchus  or  Arrian. 

"  Pliny,  that  is  Onesicritus,  says  that  on  this  river  one  navigates  up 
tc^Pasargadffi  in  seven  days.  TIds  of  course  is  not  true.  But  such  a 
statement  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  when  we  consider  how  frequent 
fabulous  accounts  of  the  origin  and  course  of  rivers  are  to  be  found  in 
the  history  of  geography.  It  only  shows  that  people  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  knew  that  its  course  was  very  long,  and  that  it  came  from  some- 
where up  country,  perhaps  not  far  from  the  royal  cities  of  Fars.  They 
may  also  have  combined  it  with  the  Pulvar. 

"  Next  comes  Ptolemy,t  whose  knowledge  of  the  Indian  Ocean  and 
Persian  Gulf  is  evidently  based  on  log-books  from  the  time  of  the 
Ftolemean  dynasty  in  Egypt,  and  of  the  first  Boman  emperors.  He 
mentions  J  at  the  place  where  we  would  expect  the  Ehor-i-Ziaret,  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Brisoana  (^Brisoana  Potamon  enbolai').  Brisoana 
.must  be  in  old  Persian  'Berezvan'  or  *Berezvana'  (Epzend, 
Berezvant),  and  signifies  *  The  Mighty  *  (river) ;  the  name  being  only 
an  appellative.  Marcian  Heracleensis  copies  faithfully  Ptolemy.  I  am 
not  aware  that  any  other  mention  is  made  of  the  Kara- Aghatch  Biver  in 
Greek  writers. 

"But  the  Arabic  geographers  know  the  river  quite  well,  and  de- 
scribed its  cpurse  with  great  accuracy.  It  will  only  be  necessary  to 
quote  Istakhri's  *Kitab  ul  Memalik  val  Mosalik.*  § 

*  This  ia  the  reading  of  the  best  MSS.  Some  write  Sitiogodua  and  Sitiogagns, 
which  is  wrong,  but  generally  met  with  in  older  books.— F.  0.  A. 

t  Second  cent.  p.  Chr. 

X  Geog.  vi.  4. 

§  Ibn-Haukal's  « Kitab-ul-Mesalik '  (Ar.  text  edited  by  De  Goeje,  Leyden,  1873)  ia 
only  to  be  considered  as  a  now  edition  of  Istakhri,  with  additions  and  corrections.  The 
passage  on  the  rivers  of  Fars  is  almost  identical  in  both.— F.  C.  A. 


716  NOTES  ON  THE  RIVER  HAND,  IN  SOUTHERN  PERSIA. 

"  *  As  to  the  river  *  Sakkan,*  it  issues  from  the  lands*  of  El-BnweyhaDf 
from  a  village  called  *  Sha'fari/  the  fields  of  which  it  waters.  Then  it 
flows  to  the  district  |  of  Siah,  and  waters  it ;  thence  to  Eewar,  and 
waters  it ;  thence  to  Ehabr,  and  waters  it ;  thence  to  El-Simakan,  and 
waters  it ;  then  to  Earzin,  and  waters  it ;  then  to  a  village  named  8akk. 
And  (the  name  of?)  §  this  river ||  is  referred  to  Sakk.  Then  it  &ll8  mte 
the  sea.  Now  there  is  no  river  of  Fare  more  fertilising  than  this  riTer,* 
(Edit,  de  Goeje,  Leyden,  1870,  p.  120.    Comp.  Ibn-Haukal,  p.  191.) 

"  *  And  the  road  from  Shiraz  to  Jennabeh ;  from  Shiraz  to  Ehan-el- 
Asad,!  which  is  on  the  river  El-Sakkan,  six  farsakhs,  and  from  the 
Ehan  to  Basht-i-Arzan  Ehan,  four  farsakhs.'     (Ibid.,  p.  ISO.) 

"  These  passages  leave  no  doubt  as  to  the  identity,  and  I  have  there- 
fore only  to  add  a  remark  on  the  name  'Sakkan,'  of  the  *Eui. 
Aghach,'  and  'Sakkan.'  Every  one  who  has  read  old  Arabic  MSS. 
knows  that  when  a  is  preceded  and  followed  by  d,  <,  and  c,  the  latter 
stroke  is  very  easily  left  out,  the  copyist  not  being  over  anxious  to  make 
a  stroke  more  or  less,  especially  as  the  diacritical  points  are  generallj 
omitted  in  proper  names. 

"  Being  acquainted  with  the  old  name  of  the  river  *  Sitakan,'  or 
*  Sittakan,'  I  think  it  would  be  one  of  the  easiest  emendations  to  read 

instead  of  'Sakkan'      \Cy^       V-   ■•>        \^,  *Sitakkan,'  or  as  the 

teshdid  on  the  h  is  quite  anomalous,  *  Sittakan.'  This  I  believe  to 
be  the  true  form  of  .the  name  corresponding  exactly  to  the  *Sittogan' 
of  Onesicritus  in  the  MSS.  of  Istakhri ;  the  t  inadvertently  was  dropped 
by  the  copyist,  but  the  teshdid  belonging  to  it  was  preserved  and 
transferred  to  the  h 

**  For  completeness'  sake  I  may  mention  that  Hammer,  and  following 
him  Hitter,**  identifies  the  Sittoganus,  for  which  he  reads  SitiogagiUy 
with  the  '  Sitarejan  *  of  the  Arabic  geographers.  But  the  *  Sitaieja ' 
(Istakhri  has  *Shazkau,'  Ibn-Haukal  'Shadkan,'  evidently  a  better 
reading)  is,  and  can  easily  be  ascertained  by  the  text  of  these  authon, 
one  of  the  rivers  belonging  to  the  northern  parts  of  Dashtistan."  f| 

*  I  have  simply  copied  the  text  of  De  Goeje,  \rithout  making  any  oorrectfona. 
Instead  of  "  El-Ruweyhan  "  I  read  with  Edrisi  •*  Ruyan,"  which  is  o^tainly  connected 
with  Bud,  Ru  in  Bunru-siah  now  Siakh-Khabr,  now  Khafr. — F.  C.  A. 

t  "  Rustak,"  u  cultivated  place,  also  border  district.— E.  C.  B. 
•  X  Bustak. 

§  Compare  with  course  of  river  on  sketch  map  accompanying  the  Administiation 
Bepcrt  for  1875-70.  Tlie  Arabian  writer  leaves  in  the  lurch  just  where  we  most  reqniie 
information. — E.  C.  B. 

II  "  Wadi "  in  original,  which  also  means  *'  valley."— E.  C.  R. 

IT  Khan-el-Asad,  now  Khan-i-Zinynn. — P.  C.  A. 

**  '  Geography  of  Asia,'  viii.  p.  763. 

tt  Not  Daaliti.    These  two  names  are  not  identical.— F.  C.  A. 


(    717    ) 


M.  BevoiTs  Journey  into  the  South  Somali  Country.   ' 

The  Geographical  Society  of  Marseilles  has  received  information  from 
Zanzibar,  dated  5th  October  last,  that  M.  Georges  R6voil  (see  July  No. 
of  B.G.S.  '  Proceedings/  p.  429)  had  succeeded  in  reaching  Gananeh  on 
the  Upper  Juba;  and  also  a  letter  from  the  traveller  himself,  dated 
Gnalidi  (Geledi  or  Jilledy)  on  the  river  Webbe  or  Wobbi  ("Ouebi 
Doboi'*)  the  first  station  on  the  route  from  Magadoxo  to  Gananeh. 
M.  Bevoil  left  Zanzibar  early  in  May,  reaching  Magadoxo  on  the  14th  of 
that  month  after  a  very  dangerous  passage — an  Arab  dhow  which  sailed 
in  company  with  him  being  lost  with  her  crew  in  sight  of  Merka. 

M.  Bevoil  stayed  from  May  14th  to  June  25th  at  Magadoxo,  being 
entertained  by  Salem-Ben-Amari,  an  Arab  merchant  of  the  town,  whose 
co-operation  and  active  help  were  of  the  greatest  value.  He  passed  this 
time  in  organising  his  caravan  and  making  ethnographical  and  zoological 
oollections,  taking  also  several  photographic  views  of  the  town  and  its 
neighbourhood.  Commandant  Guillain  was  stationed  here  in  1848, 
when  on  his  expedition  to  the  Benadir  Somali  coast,  and  had  not  ihuch 
difficulty  in  getting  to  Gualidi,  expending  only  some  30  piastres  as 
presents  or  backshish.  Things  are  however  much  changed  since  then : 
in  spite  of  the  official  protection  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  and  the 
good  offices  of  the  Zanzibar  governor  of  Magadoxo  and  Salem-Ben-Amari, 
M.  Bevoil  was  subjected  to  great  exactions  at  Gualidi,  and  could  not 
have  spent  less  than  500  piastres  on  a  single  day's  march  between 
Magadoxo  and  that  place,  without  reckoning  numerous  presents. 

Various  Somali  tribes  or  clans  claim  the  territory  between  these 
towns  and  the  possession  of  the  road  connecting  them,  resulting  in 
incessant  quarrels  and  daily  bloodshed  in  the  environs  of  Magadoxo  and 
Bometimes  even  in  the  town  itself.  The  most  important  of  these  tribes, 
which  holds  the  caravan  road  from  Magadoxo  to  Gualidi  and  thence  to 
Gananeh,  is  that  of  the  Gobrons,  whose  chief  Omar  Yusuf,  a  tributary 
of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  resides  at  Gualidi.  It  was  Achmet  Yusuf,  a 
brother  of  this  chief,  who  traitorously  poisoned  the  German  traveller 
Kugelbach.  Between  Gualidi  and  Magadoxo,  and  even  in  the  former 
territory,  the  supremacy  of  this  tribe  is  however  stoutly  disputed  by  the 
Wadans — a  rivalry  which  results  in  reduplicated  exactions  on  the 
traveller,  and  a  regular  competition  as  to  who  shall  levy  the  greatest 
contributions. 

Omar  Yusuf  sent  200  men  of  his  escort  in  front  of  M.  Bevoil  to 
protect  him  as  far  as  Gualidi.  Directly  on  leaving  Magadoxo,  the 
explorer  and  his  followers  found  the  road  stopped  by  a  troop  of  Bedaween 
of  the  nomad  Abgal  and  Mursoudo  tribes,  and  they  only  got  over  this 
difficulty  by  the  help  of  the  escort,  who  kept  the  Arabs  in  awe  while  the 
caravan  regained  the  road  by  a  circuitous  path.  This  operation  had  to 
be  repeated  two  or  three  times  in  the  day ;  and  there  was  even  a  slight 


718     ■  M.  r£voil's  journey  into  the  south  somau  oountry. 

skirmisli  at  the  gates  of  Gualidi,  where,  after  seven  hours*  forced  march 
at  racing  pace  under  a  perpendicular  sun,  the  traveller  and  his  followen 
arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  June. . 

M.  B^voil  was  obliged  to  stay  more  than  a  month  in  this  Somali 
town,  and  it  was  not  till  the  end  of  July  that  he  was  able  to  start  for 
Gananeh. 

He  gives  the  following  sketch  of  the  place:— Gualidi,  situated  on 
the  Webbe,  is  divided  into  six  "  quarters  "  placed  on  both  banks  of  the 
river,  and  some  of  which  are  rather  distant  from  the  main  town.  The 
natives  live  in  conical  huts  called  m>»,  the  framework  of  which  it 
made  of  hoops  and  wattles  and  supported  by  a  large  post  reaching  from 
summit  to  base.  Each  Somal  possesses  two  or  three  of  these  huts,  mr- 
rounded  by  an  inclosure  with  smaller  outbuildings  of  the  same  fonu, 
used  for  cattle,  cooking,  or  stores. 

The  mosques  are  isolated  from  every  habitation,  and  are  simply  lai^ 
huts  of  the  same  construction  as  those  above  mentioned,  carpeted  witii 
ox-skins.  ' 

The  Webbe,  which  runs  through  Gualidi,  had  at  the  season  of 
M.  R6voil's  visit  a  yellowish  muddy  current,  and  was  but  little  over 
98  feet  in  width.  Ibis,  plovers,  and  wild  geese  people  its  waters ;  on  its 
banks  enormous  crocodiles  slumber,  and  baboons  and  grivet  monkeys 
play.  Vegetation  is  not  so  luxuriant  as  might  be  imagined  in  a  river 
so  near  the  equator ;  nevertheless  the  landscape  is  very  picturesque  and 
animated,  especially  in  the  morning.  Here  and  there  are  located 
marketing  places  for  com  and  cattle,  with  slaughter-houses  in  the  open 
air ;  and  the  Somali  pass  from  one  bank  to  the  other  on  wherries  dragged 
along  cables  of  twisted  creepers.  The  land  is  cultivated,  and  has  fine 
meadows.  The  natives  go  about  the  town  unarmed,  and  employ 
Unyamwesi  and  Galla  slaves  for  the  most  troublesome  work.  The 
Somali  of  this  region  are  much  less  warlike  than  those  of  Cape  Guardafhi 
visited  by  R^voil,  but  they  are  perhaps  more  cruel,  and  their  knavery 
and  rapacity  are  much  more  to  be  feared.  In  other  respects,  morals  are 
not  so  severe  as  with  the  Somali  of  the  Gulf  of  Aden,  and  the  danoes  of 
the  Gobrons  are  of  the  utmost  lasoiviousness. 

During  his  stay  at  Gualidi,  R^voil  had  to  complain  of  numerons 
thefts,  and  it  was  not  without  trouble  that  he  obtained  restitution  of 
articles  stolen  from  him,  even  by  the  chief  Omar  Yusufs  own  brother. 
The  chief  himself,  rather  an  old  man,  lives  huddled  up  in  a  wretched 
hut,  to  which  he  is  confined  by  an  incurable  wound  in  his  leg.  He  has 
for  many  years  fasted  in  the  daytime,  and  passes  a  part  of  the  night  in 
prayer.  Revoil  had  many  conversations  with  him  during  the  weaiy 
month  spent  in  haggling  over  his  journey  to  Gananeh ;  and  it  was  only 
by  the  pressure  of  the  Governor  of  Magadoxo  and  a  threat  of  the  anger 
of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  that  the  chief  finally  agreed  to  comparatively 
reasonable  conditions  for  the  assurance  of  his  protection. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Kevoil  was  compelled  to  exercise  very  sustained  energy  and  pa1ien< 
in  the  face  of  the  exactions  and  importunities  of  which  he  was  the 
object.  All  his  native  servants  abandoned  him  in  turn  during  the  feast 
of  the  Bamadan ;  but  to  make  up  for  this  he  cannot  sufiGciently  praise 
Julian  Tei88dre,a  native  of  Cassis  (Bouches-du-Rhone),  whom  he  brought 
with  him, — an  old  sailor,  whose  zeal,  activity,  smartness,  and  devotion 
were  of  the  most  valuable  aid  to  the  explorer.  These  two  shared  the 
work  of  guarding  stock  and  preparing  collections.  In  spite  of  all  the 
troubles  undergone,  the  health  of  the  travellers  was  good,  beyond  some 
slight  attacks  of  fever  and  the  painful  results  of  insect-stings  from  which 
M.  Revoil  suffered. 

The  traveller  left  Gualidi  towards  the  end  of  July,  and  from  the 
Zanzibar  despatch  must  have  arrived  at  Gananeh  at  the  end  of  August. 
The  news  was  doubtless  brought  by  caravan  to  Magadoxo  and  sent  on 
from  thence  to  Zanzibar.  The  letter  from  Gualidi,  of  which  the  above 
is  an  outline,  was  carried  to  Zanzibar  by  the  Sultan's  soldiers,  who 
*  undertake  the  service  by  land  when  the  monsoon  shuts  off  communica- 
tion by  sea  between  the  Benadir  coast  and  the  island.  According  to 
M.  R^voil's  estimation,  it  may  be  considered  that  he  has  just  accom- 
plished one  of  the  most  difficult  parts  of  his  mission.  From  Gananeh  he 
intends  to  go  among  the  Gallas,  and  to  regain  the  coast-line  of  the  Gulf  ' 
of  Aden  either  by  Harrar  or  Shoa. 


GEOGEAPHICAL  NOTES. 

Progress  of  Mr.  Thomson. — By  telegram  from  Zanzibar  we  have  the 
gratifying  news  that  the  expedition  under  Mr.  Joseph  Thomson  had 
been  heard  of  as  being,  on  the  1st  of  August,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Lake  Naivash,  i.e.  about  120  miles  north-west  of  Mount  Kilimanjaro. 
The  telegram  concludes,  "  All  well ;  no  letters." 

Consul  O'Heill's  Expedition. — We  have  received  through  Mr.  W.  T. 
Ansell,  of  the  Eastern  Telegraph  Company,  the  following  telegram 
reporting  the  progress  of  Mr.  O'Neill :—"  Matakawe,  lat.  IS**  10'  S., 
long.  36°  15'  E.  September  30.— Left  Namiirola  on  July  30th,  and 
crossed  on  August  13th  and  14th  the  Inagu  Hills  at  an  elevation  of 
4800  feet.  East  of  Inagu  (flows)  the  Malema  river ;  west  of  Maltma  (?) 
Valley  (rise)  the  Namuli  Hills.  Greatest  elevation  reached  5423  feet. 
I  estimate  Namuli  Peak  at  8500  feet,  and  Palawa  of  the  same  range  at 
.7500  feet.    Leave  for  Shirwa  to-morrow." 

Xing  Htesa. — Sir  John  Kirk  writes  from  Zanzibar,  September  22nd, 
that  the  rumours  of  the  death  of  King  Mtesa,  current  in  Europe  last 
July,  are  not  supported   by  anything  known  at  Zanzibar,   and  are 


720  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

generally  discredited  by  those  Arabs  who  are  best  aoqnainted  with  the 
interior.  News  of  such  an  event  wonld,  Sir  John  thinks,  have  reached 
the  coast  had  it  really  occurred. 

Mr.  H'lrair,  whose  adventurous  journey  in  disguise  to  the  Chitnl 
Valley  we  announced  in  our  September  number,  has  arrived  in  England, 
and  we  hope  will  give  us  an  account  of  his  experiences  and  observationi 
at  an  early  meeting.  He  succeeded  in  penetrating  one  of  the  outlying 
valleys  inhabited  by  the  Kafirs,  and  is  thus  the  first  European  who  has 
seen  these  interesting  people  in  their  own  land. 

Proposed  Expedition  to  Takht-i-Suliman  Peak. — The  Indian  papers 
report  that  the  Government  contemplate  sending  a  surveying  expedition 
to  the  Takht-i-Suliman,  a  rugged  barren  peak  which  rises  60  miles  due 
west  of  Dera  Ismail  Ehan,  and  towers  above  all  other  peaks  of  the  Suli- 
man  range.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a  narrow  plateau  stretching 
from  north  to  south  some  five  miles,  with  a  peak  at  either  end  over 
11,000  feet  in  height.  From  this  point  the  surveyor  will  command  an 
excellent  view  over  a  wide  expanse  of  country  to  the  south-west,  through 
which  pass  some  of  the  most  important  roads  from  India  into  Afghanistan. 
This  country,  though  marked  as  a  blank  on  the  maps,  has  been  fSairly 
explored  by  native  surveyors,  and  the  information  could  be  pieced 
together  and  made  thoroughly  reliable  if  a  few  trigonometrical  positions 
were  fixed;  and  Major  Holdich,  who  has  been  recommended  for  the 
work,  anticipates  that  a  day's  observation  from  the  peak  of  ^Takht-i- 
Suliman  would  be  the  means  of  mapping  some  50,000  square  miles  of  a 
very  important  part  of  the  independent  territory  lying  immediately 
beyond  our  Indian  north-western  frontier.  The  Shirani  tribe  having 
tendered  their  submission  to  the  British  authorities,  the  present  time 
appears  favourable  for  carrying  out  the  projected  expedition,  and  from 
the  Civil  and  Military  Gazette  of  Lahore  it  appears  that  it  will  probably 
soon  start. 

Expedition  to  Sonth-westem  Beluchistan.— An  expedition  under  Sir 
Eobert  G.  Sandeman,  k.c.s.1.,  has  just  started  for  South-western  Belu- 
chistan.  Its  objects  are  mainly  political,  being  principally  the  adjust- 
ment of  long-standing  differences  between  the  Khan  of  Khelat  and  Sirdar 
Azad  Khan  of  Kharan,  but  opportunity  has  been  taken  to  attach  two 
engineer  ofiBcers,  Lieut,  the  Hon.  M.  G.  Talbot  and  Lieut.  Wahab,  to  the 
expedition  for  the  purpose  of  making  surveys  and  reconnaissances, 
and,  generally  speaking,  increasing  our  geographical  knowledge  of  the 
country  traversed.  The  sanctioned  arrangements  were  that  the  party 
should  assemble  at  Sibi  on  the  16th  of  November,  and  march  to  Khozdar 
by  Gandava,  Katchi,  and  the  Mulla  Pass.  From  Khozdar  it  would 
proceed  to  Kharan  and  afterwards  make  for  Panjgur,  which  Azad  Khan 
complains  that  he  has  been  unfairly  deprived  of.  Then  the  party 
will  journey  to  Kej,  where  the  matter  of  the  disturbances  created  by  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  73t 

powerful  Bind  tribe  of  Beluohis  in  llekran  call  for  attention,  and  ob 
completion  of  that  business  proceed  to  Gwadur  on  the  coast,  where  a 
steamer  will  be  in  readiness  to  convey  them  back  by  way  of  Karachi. — 
Panjgur  and  Kej  were  both  visited  by  Sir  Charles  Macgregor  in  1877, 
bat  respecting  Eharan  we  are  dependent  for  information  almost  entirely 
on  the  account  famished  by  Haji  Abdul  Nabi,  who  visited  it  in  1838. 
Its  chief  products  are  wheat,  barley,  and  thakar  gaz^  a  sweet  gum 
exading  from  the  tamarisk;  assafoetida  is  grown  in  the  hills  ad- 
jacent, and  the  only  two  fruits  are  melons  and  dates.  The  camels  of 
Kharan  are  the  most  celebrated  in  Belachistan  for  strength  and  activity. 
In  1838  the  ruler  had  in  his  pay  60  horsemen  mounted  on  his  own 
horses ;  the  male  population  was  then  estimated  at  about  3000.  Pot- 
tinger's  route  in  1810  passed  north  of  Eharan,  and  Macgregor  did  not 
approach  it  nearer  than  Budu,  which  lies  some  60  miles  W.S.W.,  so  that 
the  fixing  of  the  position  of  Kharan  is  a  geographical  desideratum. 

Horth-weft  Borneo.  —  Mr.  Leys,  Consul-General  in  Labuan,  has 
recently  visited  various  rivers  on  the  north-west  coast  of  Borneo  in  the 
territories  of  the  Sultan  of  Brunei,  and  near  to  the  frontier  of  the  British 
North  Borneo  Company,  with  the  object  of  acquiring  information 
respecting  the  inhabitants  and  the  nature  of  the  native  government  on 
their  banks.  A  launch  was  lent  to  him  for  the  purpose  by  one  of  the 
chiefs  of  Brunei.  The  three  rivers  visited  were  the  principal  streams 
opening  into  the  Brunei  Bay,  namely,  the  Padas,  the  Lawas,  and  the 
Limbang.  Of  these,  the  Limbang  is  the  largest  and  nearest  to  Brunei, 
the  capital,  while  the  Lawas  is  further  from  the  seat  of  government, 
and  the  Padas  still  further  to  the  north.  The  length  of  the  Limbang 
Mr.  Leys  estimates  at  130  miles — that  is,  he  believes  it  might  be 
ascended  by  a  steam-launch  for  that  distance.  The  Padas  comes  next, 
with  a  length,  similarly  estimated,  of  about  100  miles;  while  the 
Lawas  proper  is  quite  a  short  river  of  only  some  30  miles.  The 
Limbang  and  Padas  rivers  have  each,  comparatively  speaking,  large 
populations  on  their  banks,  which  are  flat,  and  grow  large  quantities 
of  sago;  while  the  country  through  which  the'  Lawas  flows  is  sparsely 
populated,  but  beautiful,  with  abrupt  hills  covered  with  luxuriant 
tropical  forests.  The  Lawas  has  of  late  been  visited  every  two  or 
three  years  by  European  botftnists  or  by  Labuan  Government  officers. 
The  Padas,  as  far  as  Mr.  Leys  is  aware,  has  been  visited  by  Europeans 
only  four  or  five  times  during  the  last  thirty  years :  while  the  Limbang, 
being  the  furthest  of  the  three  from  the  residences  of  Europeans,  appears 
to  have  been  visited  only  once  by  a  European,  namely,  Mr.  Consul- 
General  St.  John,  in  1858. 

New  German  Geographical  Society. — The  recently  founded  Geogra- 
phical Society  of  Greifswald,  in  Pomerania,  of  which  a  preliminary 
notice  was  given  in  the  R.G.S.  •  Proceedings  *  for  1882,  p.  244,  and  which 

No.  XIL— Dec.  1883.]  3  b 


\^ 


\\\ 


722  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES. 

now  ntunbers  216  oidinary  members,  has  oompleted  its  first  anniul 
Tolume  of  publications,  under  the  editorship  of  its  President,  Prof.  Bodolf 
Oredner.    In  the  first  section,  which  is  of  general  interest,  Dr.  Hftbbe- 
Sohleiden,  of  Hamburg,  contributes  a  paper  on  the  opening  up  of  Inner 
Africa  from  a  commercial  point  of  view ;  Dr.  E.  W.  Paul  Lehmann  di»> 
cusses  the  Upper  Hungarian  Carpathian  region;  Herr  F.  G.  MtiUevw 
Beeck  reviews  our  scientific  knowledge  of  Corea  (giving  an  illustratioB 
of  ethnographical  objects  from  the  Joest  collection  in  the  Berlin  Museam), 
accompanied  by  a  bibliography;  and  Dr.  Steinhausen  writes  on  the 
educational  aspects  of  Geography.    The  second  section  is  devoted  to 
local  subjects,  containing  (1)  a  digest  of  the  literature  bearing  on  the 
geography,  topography,  geology,  hydrography,  climate,  ethnology,  iiranA 
and  flora,  history,  &c.,  of  Hither  Pomerania  (on  the  left  bank  of  tiie 
Oder)  and  Bugen,  arranged  by  subjects,  and  forming  a  bibliography  d 
34  pages ;  and  (2)  a  paper  by  Prof.  Scholz,  calling  for  special  observa- 
tions on  glacial  phenomena  and  their  influence  on  orographic  and  hydro- 
graphic  conditions  in  the  province  of  Pomerania  and  neighbouring  dis- 
tricts, in  which  the  importance  of  accurate  local  information  is  urged. 
The  third  section  consists  of  correspondence,  containing  a  letter  (origin- 
ally published  in  the  '  Deutschen  La  Plata  Zeitung  *  of  21  and  22  April 
last)  from  Herr  Georg  Bohde,  describing  his  rediscovery  in  the  Patar 
gonian-Chilian  Cordillera  of  the  Pass  of  Bariloche,  which  he  has  named 
the  General  Yillegas  Pass.    Herr  Bohde  reckons  his  journey  from  the 
top  of  this  pass  to  Beloncavi  Bay  at  19  leagues,  with  tJl  deviations,  and 
the  whole  distance  from  Lake  Nahuel  Huapi  to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific 
as  30  leagues,  capable  of  reduction  by  a  straighter  route  to  24  or  25 
leagues ;  the  ascents  and  depressions  are  all  easy,  and  a  loaded  caravan 
will  be  able  to  go  from  the  lake  to  the  sea  in  three  days  as  soon  as  a 
road  is  opened  through  the  forest.    A  paper,  by  Dr.  Stower,  on  the 
excavations  at  Gross-Tychow  in  Further  Pomerania,  and  an  account  of 
the  composition  and  year's  Proceedings  of  the  Society  conclude  the 
volume. 

Hi.  John  Forrest's  £zploratioiLB  in  H.W.  Australia.— A  recent  official 
report  of  the  Hon.  John  Forrest,  Surveyor-General  and  Commissioner  of  down 
Lands,  contains  particulars  of  the  topography,  condition,  and  capabilitiei  of 
the  Kimberley  District,  North-western  Australia,  accompanied  by  an  excellent  map 
showing  his  route  and  the  natural  features  6£  the  country.  This  well-known 
Australian  explorer  here  elaborates  and  supplements  the  work  of  his  brother 
Alexander  FoiTest,  whose  original  journey  in  the  same  region  is  recorded  in  our 
*  Proceedings*  for  1880,  p.  512.  The  country  examined  is,  roughly  speaking,  from 
Koebuck  Bay  on  the  west  coast,  18°  S.  lat.,  eastward  across  the  Fitzroy  river  to  the 
Napier  range  (125°  E.  long.),  27  miles  west  of  Mount  Browne,  and  northw:ard8  akmg 
the  eastern  side  of  King  Sound  to  about  16°  35'  S.  lat.,  some  1000  miles  being 
travelled  with  Mr.  Brooking,  in  charge  of  the  Kimberley  Survey,  and  Mr.  HaidmaD, 
Government  geologist.  Its  general  character  is  low  and  flat  towards  the  seaboaid, 
the  marshes  often  extending  inland  for  many  miles.  Thence  the  land  rises  gradually 


^ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  728 

into  gently  undulating  low  hillocks,  rarely  exceeding  an  elevation  of  50  feet,  which 
are  utually  densely  wooded  with  low  gnm  trees  and  acacias,  allemating  with  very 
extensive  alia  vial  flats  seldom  bearing  anything  but  luxuriant  grass.    The  Usbome 
ranges  in  the  north  are  the  only  elevated  ground ;  they  extend  laterally  north-east, 
trend  in  a  ^nerally  north-west  direction,  and  arc  penetrated  by  deep  gorges  having 
the  same  bearings,  and  occupied  by  running  streams.    The  greatest  elevation  observed 
was  476  feet,  three  miles  east  of  Port  Usbome,    Starting  from  Roebuck  Bay  on 
13th  April  last,  Mr.  Forrest  struck  inland  eastwards  through  a  lightly  wooded  and 
cousely  grassed  country,  well  suited  for  cattle,  to  the  Logue  river.    This  is  a  small 
watercourse,  apparently  not  permanent,  running  through  a  flat  and  splendidly 
grassed  district ;  as  it  was  descended,  the  country  became  more  open  and  grassy  up 
to  the  Fitzroy,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  was  a  magniflcent  alluvial  plain  six  miles 
wide,  intersected  in  all  directions  by  sheeto  of  water.    Crossiog  this,  Mr.  Forrest 
travelled  northwards  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  estuary  of  the  Fitzroy,  through 
marshy  land  bounded  by  a  country  wooded  with  eucalyptus,  cajeput,  and  baobab 
trees,  called  "  Pindan  "  by  the  natives,  to  the  site  of  the  proposed  town  Derby,  at  the 
bottom  of  King  Sound  on  the  mainland  opposite  Mary  Island,  thence  reaching  the 
valleys  of  the  May  and  Meda  rivers  on  the  cast.    So  luxuriant  was  the  grass  in 
the  extensive  plains  here,  that  the  whole  country  is  described  as  resembling  an 
immense  hayfield ;  and  progress  was  actually  impeded  by  its  thickness  and  height 
on  the  banks  of  the  Meda,  where  the  natural  yield  could  not  in  many  places  be  less 
than  three  tons  per  acre.    From  the  Meda,  the  party  went  northwards  as  far  as 
Port  Usbome,  passing  fine  water  springs  in  large  clumps  of  palms,  ferns,  and  other 
tropical  trees,  a  greater  appearance  of  tropical  vegetation  being  seen  here  than  further 
south.    A  large  river  (named  the  Robinson)  coming  from  the  east  and  several  mn- 
ning  streams  (named  Townshend,  Keightley,  Stewart,  and  Trent)  were  discovered  and 
liartly  followed,  all  lined  with  trees  and  densely  grassed,  though  the  immediate 
country  as  a  whole  is  thinly  timbered,  with  no  extensive  plains.    West  of  Port 
Usborne  towards  the  sea,  the  country  became  very  hilly,  with  contracted  valleys, 
sometimes  almost  unapproachable  and  inaccessible,  but  well  watered  and  grassed, 
and  finally  consisted  of  a  succession  of  parallel  ridges  or  spurs  falling  into  the  sea, 
with  very  deep  gorges  and  narrow  intervals  in  which  outcrops  of  basalt  were 
generally  observed.     This  final  portion  had  tQ  be  traversed  on  foot,  being  not 
practicable  for  horses.    Port  Usborne  may,  in  Mr.  Forrest's  opinion,  be  dismissed 
from  calculation  as  likely  to  be  of  use  in  the  immediate  future,  being  to  the  last 
degree  sterile,  rough,  and  difficult  to  get  at    No  means  of  approach  to  the  sea  could 
be  found,  except  by  one  narrow  valley.  .  Retracing  the  route  south  and  south-east 
to  the  Meda,  that  river,  with  its  parent  stream  the  Lennard,  was  followed  up  east- 
ward, and  the  neighbouring  country  examined.    The  Lennard  rises  in  the  Leopold 
Ranges,  and  about  30  miles  from  the  sea  forms  a  delta,  the  northern  branch  of  which 
is  called  the  Meda,  and  the  southem  the  May, — the  inclosed  land,  as  well  as  the 
plains  to  the  north  and  south,  comprising  some  of  the  fiiftst  pastoral  country  in  the 
district    The  great  plain  to  the  foot  of  the  Leopold  Ranges  had  been  burnt  by 
the  natives  for  quite  100  miles,  doubtless  to  remove  obstractions  in  travelling,  but 
also  for  the  purpose  of  getting  the  pigeons'  eggs  that  are  afterwards  collected  in 
large  numbers.    After  leaving  the  Lennard  where  it  rans  through  a  remarkable 
goige  with  perpendicular  cliffs  in  the  Napier  range,  Mr.  Forrest  struck  south  and 
south-west  towards  the  Fitzroy,  reaching  it  near  Mount  Wynne,  close  to  which  ho 
discovered  a  new  lake  of  about  30  acres,  named  Josceline  by  him.    The  country 
between  the  rivers  has  no  elevated  waterparting,  but  is  generally  a  plain,  grassy 
in  some  places,  in  others  sandy  with  spinifex ;  it  is  deficient  in  surface  water  and 
lightly  wootled,  with  nothing  tropical  in  its  aspect    The  valley  of  the  Fitzroy 

3  B  2 


724  OBITUARY. 

was  followed  to  the  sea,  and  Mr.  Forrest  says  that  the  api)earance  of  this  immeiuo 
running  river  converting  an  almost  desert  country  into  extensive  alluvial  flats,  nady 
to  be  covered  with  flocks  and  herds,  is  a  scene  not  often  witnessed  in  Wcit 
Australia.  Its  plains  are  less  level  than  those  of  the  Lennard  system,  but  hire 
larger  and  more  permanent  water-pans,  the  Fitzroy  itself  running  at  all  seasoM.— 
Having  returned  to  Boebuck  Bay,  Mr.  Forrest  travelled  south  along  the  coast-line  to 
Gape  Yillaret  and  Lagrange  Bay,  through  a  country  containing  a  numenms  nstiTi 
population,  as  evidenced  by  many  wells  of  good  water,  and  hundreds  of  wdl. 
beaten  paths  from  the  sea  to  them.  The  plains  here  were  chiefly  covered  with  alt 
grass,  but  the  coast  became  higher  and  bolder  southwards,  with  many  ravines,  being 
also  thickly  wooded  and  for  the  most  part  covered  with  spinifex.  Mr.  Forrest  finally 
returned  to  Roebuck  Bay  on  June  19th. — ^Tbe  heat  is  described  as  not  oppresaive-. 
not  nearly  so  fierce  as  in  Perth  at  the  same  temperature  (80°  to  90°  Fahr.  at  noon 
in  shade),  but  mosquitoes  were  found  of  the  greatest  possible  annoyance.  Qtme 
was  abundant  in  most  parts,  especially  ducks,  which  swarm  on  the  water^ioles  of 
the  Fitsroy  and  Lennard  plains ;  kangaroos  and  emus  were  also  found.  AUigaton 
were  plentiful  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fitzroy  and  in  some  other  rivers  entenng  King 
Sound ;  a  smaller  species  was  very  numerous,  specimens  being  fonnd  20  miles  from 
the  sea  in  fresh  running  water. — ^The  whole  district  is  reported  as  admirably 
adapted  for  cattle  and  horses,  but  it  is  evidently  unsuited  for  sheep,  exo^  kt 
acclimatised  merinos.  There  is  abundance  of  timber,  but  it  is  scarcely  fit  icr 
building  purposes. 


Mr.  James  Stewart,  C.E.— We  have  already,  in  the  introductory  note  to  his 
letter  to  Mr.  Stevenson,  in  the  first  i«ge  of  the  present  number,  alluded  to  the 
death  of  this  able  and  zealous  explorer  of  Lake  Myassa  and  the  surrounding  nf^. 
His  loss  will  be  keenly  felt  by  all  who  are  interested  in  the  opening  up  of  Gentnl 
Africa  to  civilisation  and  legitimate  commerce,  and  the  more  so  as  the  wwk  od 
which  he  was  engaged,  the  construction  of  a  road  between  Lakes  Nyansa  and  Tan- 
ganyika, along  which  a  steamer  was  about  to  be  conveyed  in  sections  for  embarkation 
on  the  latter,  remains  unfinished. 

We  learn  from  a  brief  memoir  by  Dr.  Gkorgo  Smith  that  Mr.  Stewart  was  a 
cousin  of  the  Bev.  Dr.  Stewart,  of  Lovedale  in  Gape  Golony,  and  that  he  received 
his  early  education  at  Madras  College,  St.  Andrews,  passing  as  a  trained  engineer, 
and  proceeding  thence  to  India  to  serve  in  the  Public  Works  Department  He  was 
employed  there  exclusively  in  the  Punjab,  and  after  eleven  years*  service  took  the 
usual  furlough.  Instead,  however,  of  spending  his  holiday  at  home,  he  visited  the 
Livingstonia  Mission  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland  on  Lake  Nyassa,  then  recently 
established,  about  the  year  1877.  Here  he  offered  his  gratuitous  services  to  the  new 
settlement,  and  made  the  road,  70  miles  long,  round  the  Murchison  Rapids  oa  the 
river  Shir^,  by  which  the  steamer  llala  was  carried  in  700  sections  on  ita  way  to 
successful  embarkation  on  the  lake.  His  zeal  for  the  work  and  his  earnest  chancter 
prompted  him  to  throw  up  his  high  pay  and  prospects  of  advancement  in  India  to 
become  engineer  to  the  Mission  in  1878.  He  explored  and  mapped  first  the  western 
and  northern,  and  afterwards  the  eastern  shores  of  the  lake,  surveying  the  barbonis, 
and  adding  also  much  to  our  knowledge  of  the  bordering  inland  €x>antry  and  its 
inhabitants.  It  will  be  fresh  in  the  remembrance  of  many  Members  of  the  Socictj- 
how  he  nearly  anticipated  Mr.  Thomson  in  crossing  the  previously  unvisited  tract  of 
land  between  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika.    Starting  with  a  small  party  on  the  14th  of 


\N 


CORRESPONDENCE.  725 

October,  1879,  unconscious  that  the  Society*8  expedition  was  not  far  distant  to  the 
north,  he  reached  Pambete,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Tanganyika,  only  a  fenr  hours 
after  Mr.  Thomson,  and  rendered  great  service  to  our  traveller  and  to  geography  by 
taking  a  set  of  lunar  observations  to  fix  the  longitude  of  the  place.  During  a  visit 
be  subsequently  made  to  England  in  1880  he  read  a  valuable  paper  on  his  dis- 
coveries, which  was  published,  with  a  map  of  his  surveys  at  the  northern  end  of  the 
lake^  in  the  *  Proceedings  *  for  1881,  p.  267.  On  his  retimi  to  the  scene  of  his  labours 
in  1881,  he  was  commissioned  by  Mr.  James  Stevenson  of  Glasgow  with  the  im- 
pratant  work  of  constructing  the  **  Lake- Junction  **  road  already  mentioned,  Mr. 
Stevenson  generously  furnishing  4000/.  to  defray  the  cost.  He  took  with  him  a 
staff  of  artisans,  and  has  since  been  labouring  with  varying  fortune  at  this  difiScult 
task.  A  sanguinary  attack  by  a  neighbouring  chief  on  his  native  workmen  com- 
pelled him  to  suspend  the  work  for  a  time,  and  he  employed  the  interval  in  com- 
pleting, on  behalf  of  the  Free  Church  Mission,  the  survey  of  the  east  coast,  his 
charts  of  which  accompanied  the  last  letter  he  wrote  to  his  munificent  employer. 
Peace  and  good  feeling  among  the  natives  along  the  line  of  his  unfinished  road 
having  returned,  he  resumed  his  labours  on  the  road,  and  soon  made  so  much 
farther  progress  that  he  was  able  to  inform  the  London  Missionary  Society  that  the 
way  was  open  for  the  steamer  Good  Neios^  which  they  had  ready  for  Lake  Tan- 
ganyika, and  the  vessel  has  since  been  conveyed  in  sections  vi&  the  Zambesi  and 
Shir^  to  the  head  of  the  lake  by  the  commercial  "  African  Lakes  Company,"  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  Messrs.  Moir. 

It  is  supposed  that  the  fever  which  has  robbed  us  of  this  indomitable  and  skilful 
pioneer,  who  was  doing  so  much  work  of  the  best  kind  in  the  "  Dark  Continent,*' 
was  contracted  in  the  lower  reaches  of  the  Shird,  from  near  which  the  postscript  to 
his  last  letter  was  dated.    He  was  about  forty  years  of  age. 


COEBESPONDENOE. 

Voyages  and  Map  of  the  Zeni. 

51,  Holland  Boad,  Kbnsikgtok, 
Nocember  lOM,  1883. 

In  answer  to  Professor  Steeustrup*s  theories  noticed  in  the  last  number  of  the 
'  Proceedings,'  I  beg  leave  to  make  the  following  statements.  The  original  of  the 
Zeno  map  was  laid  down  500  years  ago  by  Venetians,  roughly  to  illustrate  family 
letters  and  a  book,  describing  northern  countries,  whose  language  was  not  only 
strange  to  them,  but  diametrically  opposed  to  the  genius  of  their  own.  lliese  docu- 
ments were  not  intended  for  publication,  for  printing  was  not  known  till  half  a 
century  later,  and,  in  fact,  they  remained  unpublished  for  a  full  century  after  that. 
In  1558  a  descendant  of  the  family,  who  in  his  boyhood  had  torn  and  mutilated  the 
papers,  repaired  his  fault  to  the  best  of  his  ability,  and  patting  his  own  blamelessly 
ignorant  construction  on  the  language  of  the  text,  endowed  the  map,  then  rotten 
with  age,  with  additions  which  have  since  caused  a  great  amount  of  perplexity.  He 
then  published  extracts  from  the  letters  with  the  map  as  an  illustration. 

Now,  of  all  the  extraordinary  phenomena  exhibited  in  Professor  Steenstrup's 
marvellous  book,  one  of  the  most  astounding  to  me,  who  for  nearly  forty  years  had 
our  national  collection  of  maps  and  charts  under  my  care,  is  that  a  critic  should 
expect  a  map  such  as  I  have  described  to  be  so  microscopically  correct  in  detail  as 
to  **  correspond  "  (with  respect  to  the  contour  of  Frislanda)  "  with  the  modern  map 
of  the  Fasri'M}  Islands."    As  not  only  the  Faeroes,  ^ut  the  Shetlands  and  the 


i^6  CORRESPONDENCE. 

Orkneys,  all  of  them  groups,  are  alike  nnceremoniously  laid  down  on  tbe  Zeoo  map 
as  single  islands  with  a  few  islets  near  them,  it  is  not  sorprising  that  "FriaUuuU/ 
which  is  squeezed  down  into  the  shape  of  an  ugly  pumpkin,  should  not  very  exactly 
**  correspond  with  the  modern  map  of  the  F«rde  Islands.**  Nevertheless  there  an 
names  on  the  one  which  do  correspond  with  names  on  the  other,  and  which  I  invita 
Professor  Steenstrup  to  reproduce  collectively,  if  he  can,  in  Uie  real,  uninvenUd 
nomenclature  of  any  island  or  group  of  islands  whatever.  Monaco  (the  Monk)  lici 
correctly  at  the  south  of  the  group,  while  Andefort  (Andefjord),  pace  Professor  8teen. 
strup,  is  remarkably  near  its  right  position  in  the  north.  Sndero  Gk>lfo  (Suder6fjoid) 
which  does  not  (as  is  suggested)  mean  the  Southern  Gulf  or  Fjord,  but  the  Crnlf  or 
Fjord  of  Snderoe  (the  southern  island),  takes  its  name  from  the  southern  island  of  the 
Faeroes,  which,  then  as  now,  bore  the  name  of  Suderoe.  It  is  the  channel  betvrat 
that  island  and  Sandoe,  the  Sanestol  of  t^e  text  and  mapu  This  could  not  be  laid  down 
in  its  right  place  on  a  map  which  did  not  divide  the  group  into  its  teparate  iJandt. 
The  same  with  Ledovo  (Lille  Dimon)  which  lies  in  that  channeL  So  also,  of  abaolote 
necessity,  was  it  the  same  with  Streme  (Stromoe),  the  name  of  which  occurs  at  th« 
spot  where  its  south-'east  extremity  would  terminate,  somewhat  below  the  capital, 
Frislanda,  which  also  is  in  its  right  place.  And  here  I  would  call  attention  to  tbe 
fact  that  the  only  town  then  and  now  existing  in  all  this  group  lay  on  tbe  south-east 
side  of  Strum(3e,  by  far  the  largest  and  most  important  island,  and,  both  in  tl^  map 
and  text,  this  town,  now  known  as  Thorshavn,  is  named  Frislanda,  in  a^xirdance 
with  a  well-known  custom  in  the  middle  ages  of  giving  a  capital  the  name  of  tbe 
country.  This  island  would,  therefore,  naturally  be  the  resort  of  Zichmni  and  of 
the  Zeni  when  visiting  the  group,  and  one  must  be  very  difficult  to  persuade  who 
cannot  see  the  reasonableness  of  the  name  of  Frislanda  being  used  in  reference  tosocb 
visits,  to  the  exclusion  of  that  of  StrOmoe.  This  would  account  for  Frislanda  being 
twice  spoken  of  in  the  text  as  an  island.  One  thing  is  certain,  that  there  is  no 
mention  of  Streme  in  the  text.  That  it  should  be  placed  on  the  map  near  a  small 
island  is  very  sad,  but  I,  for  one,  am  a  very  lenient  judge  of  a  map  made  500  years 
ago,  especially  by  Venetians  among  the  Norse.  Orkn-eyar  (the  Orkneys)  vns  a 
sound  very  difficult  to  Italianise,  but  from  their  position,  they  are  evidently  Uie 
"  little  islands  **  forming  the  Porlanda  of  the  text.  The  stiperjluous  Porlanda,  be- 
tween the  south  of  Frislanda  and  the  Monk,  is  an  obvious  addition  by  the  later  Zeno 
from  his  reading  of  the  text.  The  Orkney  group  of  the  early  map  contains  no  names 
beyond  the  clumsily  transcribed  general  designation  of  "  Porlanda  '*  or  **  Podalida," 
but  on  Estlanda  (Shetland)  where  Nicold  Zeno  lived  for  a  considerable  time,  there 
are  a  host  of  names  unmistakably  corresponding  with  those  in  the  Sbetlands ;  e.  g. 
Cledere  (Queendal),  Sumbercouit  (Sumburgh  Head),  St.  Magnus  (St.  Magnus  Bay), 
Scaluogi  (Scalloway),  Bristund  (Brassa  Sound),  Itlant(Fetlar),  Lonibies  (Lambness), 
Onlefort  (Olna  Fiord)  and  Oloford  (Onze  Fiord),  Nevertheless,  Estlanda,  like 
Frislanda,  is  laid  down  as  a  single  island  with  a  few  islets  near  it.  It  is  therefore 
childish  solemnly  to  place  the  arbitrary  and  manifestly  inaccurate  contour  of  the 
Frislanda  of  500  years  ago,  side  by  side  with  the  modem  accurate  map  of  Iceland, 
in  order  to  show  a  similarity  of  outline,  and  thereby  to  aim  at  proving  a  discrepancy 
between  the  map  and  tho  text  of  the  Zeno  publication.  Yet  on  this  basis  Profe»ur 
Steenstrup  decides  that  "the  Frislanda  of  the  map  is  Iceland,"  although  both 
Frislanda  and  Iceknd  hold  their  respective  places  on  the  map,  and  in  the  text  also 
the  two  are  mentioned  together  in  the  same  breath,  on  three  several  occasions.  As 
I  shall  presently  show  by  quotations,  the  map  and  text  are  in  perfect  accord  as  to 
the  position  of  Frislanda,  yet,  by  way  of  injurious  dislocation,  Professor  Steenstrap 
sends  the  Frislanda  of  the  map  to  one  limbo,  and  the  Frislanda  of  the  text  to 
another. 


CORBESPONDENCE,  727 

Messrs.  Erarup  and  Steenstrnp  have,  of  coarse,  as  much  right  to  assame  that 
the  name  of  Van  Siggem  was  the  phonetic  equivalent  of  Zeno's  Zichmni  as  Jtdiann 
Beinhold  Forster,  John  Pinkerton,  and  myself,  had  to  assume  that  said  equivalent 
was  supplied  by  the  name  of  Sinclair.  The  verification  of  either  assumption  must 
lie  in  the  movements  of  the  assumed  personage  being  in  accordance  with  the  time, 
localities,  &c.,  mentioned  in  connection  with  Zichmni  in  the  Zeno  narrative.  There 
is  no  discordance  in  placing  the  movements  of  Henry  Sinclair,  Earl  of  Orkney,  in 
the  Shetland,  Fasroe,  and  Orkney  groups.  The  assumption  of  the  name  of  Van 
Siggem,  however,  entails  the  transportation  of  "the  Frislanda  of  the  texf 
to  that  part  of  the  continental  Friesland  which  is  described  by  M.  Erarug 
as  "North  Friesland  (western  parts  of  the  Duchy  of  Slesvig")  and  by  Pro- 
fessor Steenstrnp  as  "  North  Friesland  or  *  Strand  *  Friesland."  The  authors  of 
the  text,  however,  Nicol6  and  Antonio  Zeno,  were  clearly  of  a  very  different 
opinion.  In  one  place  their  narrative  states  that "  Estlanda  (Shetland)  lies  between 
Frislanda  and  Norvegia,"  and  in  another  that  "  Zichmni  possessed  certain  islands 
called  Porlanda,  lying  not  far  from  Frislanda  to  the  south,  and  beyond  the  stud 
small  islands  he  was  lord,  on  the  mainland,  of  the  duchy  of  Sorano,  lying  over 
against  Scotia.**  In  accordance  with  these  two  geographical  statements,  the  map 
places  the  Shetlands  between  Frislanda  and  Norway,  while  the  northern  point  of 
Scotia  (Scotland)  lies  south-east  of  Frislanda,  with  the  other  islands  intervening. 
"  The  Frislanda  of  the  Zeni  narrative^  therefore,  lies  north-west  of  the  northern  point 
of  Scotland.  To  those  accordingly,  who,  like  myself,  have  never  doubted  that 
Norvegia  was  Norway,  and  Scotia,  Scotland,  it  followed  that  "  the  Frislanda  of  the 
Zeuo  narrative  '*  was,  as  regards  longitude,  west  of  Norway  and  the  Shetlands,  and, 
as  regards  latitude,  north  of  Scotland,  the  two  positions  making  the  conversion  of 
Sootia  into  any  other  country  but  Scotland  as  great  an  absurdity  as  it  would  be  to 
tell  us  that  Norvegia  was  not  Norway.  Yet  this  Professor  Steenstrnp  has  had  the 
courage  to  do.  Although,  both  in  text  and  map,  Norvegia  is  foimd  in  conjunction 
with  Suecia  (Sweden) ;  although  on  the  map  it  has  Dania  (Denmark)  to  the  south  of 
it ;  although  it  has  laid  down  on  its  coast  **  Trondo  "  for  "  Trondheim,*  and  down 
at  the  south  "  Bergen,**  correctly  so  given ;  although  Engroneland  is  a  great  main- 
land lying  opxxwite  to  Norvegia,  with  Islanda  lying  between  them,  as  Iceland 
should  lie  between  Greenland  and  Norway ;  yet  for  this  gentleman  Norvegia  is  not 
Norway,  nor  Scotia,  Scotland.  Having  foimd  a  home  for  Zichnmi  in  North  Fries- 
land, he  asks  the  reader  to  believe  that  "Norvegia"  may  well  be  a  misprint  for 
"  Norges  Harda,"  and  that  "  Scotia "  is  "  Goesia  or  Goestia,  answering  to 
Goestherde,**  both  in  that  country,  while  "  Engroneland  is  a  North  Frisian  marsh- 
land, probably  the  Eiderstedt  Peninsula.** 

The  geography  is  curious,  but  every  one  has  a  right  to  his  own  opinion.  Let  us 
then  take  Prof.  Steenstrup's  geography  on  its  own  merits.  Frislanda  is  North 
Friesland,  and  Norvegia  and  Scotia  are  districts  therein.  Frislanda,  consequently, 
is  much  greater  than  Norvegia,  and  there  is  no  knowing  what  it  may  include  in  its 
comprehensive  embrace.  The  Shetland  Islands,  according  to  the  IZeno  narrative,  lie 
between  Frislanda  and  Norvegia.  Are  they  then  outside  or  inside  of  North  Fries- 
land ?  If  outside,  which  they  must  be  to  suit  the  Zeno  geography,  then  Norvegia 
must  be  outside  also.  Therefore  Norvegia  is  both  inside  and  outside  of  Frislanda. 
If,  however,  the  Shetlands  are  inside  of  North  Friesland,  whereabouts  are  they  to 
be  found  ?  But  again,  Frislanda  includes  Scotia,  and  must  be  much  greater  than  it 
Meanwhile  the  Zeno  narrative  tells  us  that  the  "  little  islands  "  which  form  Porlanda 
lie  south  of  Frislanda,  and  between  it  and  Scotia.  Are  they,  then,  outside  or  inside 
North  Friesland  ?  If  outside,  which  they  must  be  to  suit  the  Zeno  geography, 
then  Scotia  must  be  outside  also.    Therefore  Sootia  is  both  inside  and  outside  of 


728  COBRESPONDENCE. 

Frlslanda.  If,  however,  the  PorlaDda  islands  are  inside  of  North  Friesland,  where- 
abouts are  they  ?  Again,  Nicol6  Zeno  went  northward  from  the  Shetland  Islands  to 
Engroneland,  but,  according  to  Professor  Steenstnip,  "  Engroneland  is  certainly  not 
Greenland,  but  a  North  Frisian  marshland,  probably  the  Eiderstedt  Peninsula."  But 
the  latter  is  the  most  south-western  part  of  his  Friesland  :  how  fax  to  the  south  then 
are  the  poor  Shetlands  to  be  looked  for?  The  narrative  tells  us  that  '*fmr8 
resorted  to  the  monastery  in  Engroneland  from  Norvegia,  Suecia,  and  other 
countries."  I  wonder  whether  Suecia,  which  most  of  us  have  been  in  the  habit 
of  taking  for  Sweden,  went  also  with  Norvegia  into  North  Friesland.  It  must  be 
confessed  that,  in  Professor  Steenstrup's  company,  Frislanda  has  become  an  nti- 
commonly  extensive  country.  The  companionship,  however,  fails  to  commend  itself 
to  my  sympathy  on  the  score  of  justice  and  truth.  Theories  which  are  equally  at 
variance  with  the  ancient  text  and  with  the  known  geography  of  to-day,  are  mi*, 
leading  to  the  casual  reader,  and  unjust  to  the  Zeno  document  Certainly  they  will 
not  induce  me  to  give  up  my  old  belief  that  Norvegia  is  Norway  ;  Suecia,  Sweden ; 
Scotia,  Scotland ;  Engroneland,  Greenland ;  and  that  the  F<%roe  Islands,  called  in 
old  Danish  (as  Admiral  Zahrtmann,  himself  a  Dane,  tells  us),  **  Faeroisland,"  and 
which  lie  between  Greenland  and  Norway,  and  north-west  of  Scotland,  are  the  Fris- 
landa of  the  Zeno  narrative  and  map. 

The  real  interest  of  the  Zeno  document  lies  in  this,  that  it  is  the  latest  ia 
existence,  as  far  as  we  know,  treating  of  the  lost  East  Colony  of  Greenland,  so 
anxiously  sought  for ;  and  it  is  also  the  latest,  as  far  as  we  know,  treating  of  the 
Norse  settlers  in  North  America,  and  showing  from  the  narrative  of  a  fisherman 
that  they  still  survived  at  that  period,  which  was  100  years  before  Columbus.  Mr. 
Erarup  gives  it,  in  English,  as  his  ultimate  decision,  that  "  the  map  of  the  Zeni  is  a 
forgery  of  the  editor's  (of  1558)  intended  to  vindicate  for  the  Venetian  travellers, 
the  Zeni,  the  first  discovery  of  America"  and  that  "  the  Zenis  (sic)  never  vbited  any 
part  of  Am^ica."  Professor  Steenstrup  echoes  the  opinion  in  other  words.  If  either 
of  these  gentlemen  had  carefully  read  the  narrative  which  they  have  taken  upoD 
themselves  so  injuriously  to  criticise,  they  would  have  seen  that  it  did  not  contain 
one  single  word  of  pretension  that  either  Nicold  or  Antonio  Zeno  ever  set  foot  either 
in  Estotiland,  or  Drogio,  or  any  other  port  of  North  America,  or  that  they  "  explored 
both  the  east  and  west  coasts  of  Greenland."  It.  U.  Majob. 


Tlie  Athabasca  District  of  the  Canadian  N.W.  Ten-ttoiy. 

Marseilles,  5th  Sot^  1883. 
Sib, — ^With  regard  to  the  note  on  p.  64G  of  the  November  number  of  the  R.G.S. 
*  Proceedings,*  I  may  observe  that  besides  the  T'altsan  Desse  of  my  map,  there  is 
another  stream,  the  Thu-ban  Desse  (Des  Seins,  or  River  Kound-the-breasts),  not  fer 
to  the  east,  which  is,  as  suggested,  the  river  spoken  of  in  Sir  G.  Back's  narrative 
under  the  name  of  Thu-wu-desseh.  The  Thu-ban  Desse  takes  its  name  from  the 
Great  Slave  Lake,  which  is  called  "  Thu-t'ue  "  or  Lake  of  the  Breasts  by  the  Chipe- 
wyans,  because  its  eastern  part  is  terminated  by  two  extensive  bays,  in  outline 
fancifully  resembling  the  female  bosom. 

.  The  T'altsan  Desse  (meaning  Copper,  i.  e.  Copper-Indinns  or  Yellow-knives  River) 
is  known  to  the  French  Canadians  as  Rividre  du  Rocher,  a  name  of  which  I  did  not 
make  mention  in  my  map.  *'  T'altsan  Desse  "  is  the  Indian  name  of  five  different 
rivers  in  the  more  northern  parts  of  the  North-western  Territory ;  1,  the  Copper 
River  of  Hearne ;  2,  the  Copper  River  of  the  Bering  Sea ;  3,  an  affluent  of  the 
Mackenzie ;  4,  another  tributary  of  the  Great  Slave  Lake,  below  Fort  Bae,  on  the 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  729 

northern  shore ;  and  finally  the  one  now  under  notice,  which  flows  into  the  Great 
Slave  Lake  between  the  Slave  River  and  the  Thu-wu-desseh,  or  Clowey  River  of 
Back.  But  of  these  five  rivers,  only  the  first  two  are  known  to  Europeans  as 
Copper-mine  rivers ;  the  third  and  fourth  bear  the  name  of  Copper-Indians  or  Yellow- 
knives  rivers ;  and  the  fifth  is  the  above-mentioned  Du  Rocher  or^Rock^iver  of  the 
French  Canadians. 

With  regard  to  the  name  of  the  great  northern  or  Athabascan  family  of  Indians, 
conventionally  written  "  Tinney  *'  or  "  Tinne,*'  I  should  like  to  make  a  few  observa- 
tions. The  Indian  name  which,  as  is  well  known,  means  *'  man  "  or  "  men,'*  is 
rendered  according  to  diflferent  dialects,  by  "  Dene  "  or  "  Tene,"  "  Dane"  or  « Tane," 
"Dune,"  "Dunie,""  Dajna"  or  "Tasna,"  "Dnaine,"  "  Dindjie,"  &c.,  but  never  by 
^  Tinne."  All  these  words  are  compounded  of  two  short  syllables,  a  formation  to 
which  the  two  n's  of  "  Tinne  "  would  be  an  obstacle.  I  fancy  there  may  have  been 
some  mistake  by  the  early  explorers  who  confused  the  substantive  "Dene"  or 
**  Tene  **  (man,  men)  with  "  ottine  "  (by  elision,  *ttine)  which  is  a  participle  of  the 
verb  "  Ostti,"  meaning  **  I  do,"  "  I  make,"  and  also  signifying  "  I  stay,"  "  I  remain." 
Thus,  •*  Sel'ottine  "  is  "  my  kinsmen,"  literally  "  those  who  are  doing  with  me " 
(mecum  agentes) ;  "  Djian  ostti  unli  ille "  means  "  I  am  never  doing  here  "  (i.  e. 
staying,  working,  hunting) ;  "  Djian  ottine "  is  "  those  who  are  doing  here  *'  (i.  e. 
the  inhabitants  of  this  country);  &c.  This  word  "ottine"  is  never  employed 
separately  except  as  a  verb.  But,  as  a  suffix,  it  has  become  a  kiad  of  par- 
ticipial noun,  meaning  genSy  nation  people  (habitantes,  manentes),  and  must  be  em- 
ployed with  a  noun  of  location  or  the  name  of  an  animal,  as  "  t'altsan  ottine."  The 
relatives  of  "ottine "in  some  dialects  are  "gottine"  "kottine,"  &c.,  suffixes  com- 
parable with  the"meork"  and  "meut"  of  the  Eskimo,  or  the  "gwan"  of  the 
Koloshcs,  &c.  Emile  Tetitot. 


BEPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS,  SESSION  1883-^4 

First  Meeting^  12th  November,  1883. — The  Eight  Hon.  Lobd  Abebdake, 
President,  in  the  Chair. 
FBESEKTATioy. —  W,  T.  Ansdl^  Esq. 
Elkctiok. — Richard  Bentley,  Esq. 

The  Fbesident'b  Addbess  on  Ofekinq  the  Session. 

The  Pbesidext  opened  the  business  of  the  Session  with  the  following  Address  :— 
In  the  five  months  which  have  elapsed  since  the  delivery  of  my  Address  at  our 
Annual  Meeting  the  progress  of  geographical  research  has  been  active  and  fruitful 
in  discoveries,  of  the  full  results  of  which  we  are  as  yet  only  partially  informed. 
Fischer,  Thomson,  and  O'Neill  on  the  eastern  coasts  of  Africa ;  Fiegel,  Stanley,  and 
Johnston  on  its  western  coasts,  have  added,  and  may  be  said  to  be  daily  adding,  to 
our  knowledge  of  countries  either  wholly  unexplored,  or,  if  previously  explored, 
wholly  undescribed ;  the  events  connected  with  New  Guinea  are  exciting  a  keener 
interest  than  ever  in  that  vast  island,  of  which  with  slight  and  rare  exceptions  only 
the  outer  circumference  has  been  visited;  Baron  de  Nordenskiold's  enterprising 
expedition  to  Greenland  has  efiectually  negatived  the  surmised  existence  of  a  habit- 
able interior  protected  by  natural  barriers  from  the  tyranny  of  ice  and  snow ;  the 
return  of  several  of  the  Arctic  expeditions  has  relieved  much  painful  anxiety,  and 
rais(<d  hopes,  if  not  of  any  important  addition  to  our  knowledge  of  those  regions, 
still  of  interesting  contributions  to  scientific  geography ;  while  the  picture  of  daring 


7S0,  REPOBT  OF  THE  EVENING  HEETINQS. 

adventure  and  noble  hardihood  in  the  extension  of  knowledge  and  natural  scienoe  is, 
as  is  but  too  usual,  darkened  with  apprehensions  for  the  fate  of  expeditions  in  distant 
and  perilous  seas,  or  saddened  with  the  catastrophes  which  have  too  surely  befallen 
new  heroes  and  martyrs  in  geographical  research. 

Our  Society,  while  following  with  vigilant  sympathy  the  traces  of  travellers  of 
all  countries,  is  naturally  most  interested  in  those  expeditions  in  which  they  have 
taken  an  active  part. 

In  addition  to  the  costly  expedition  imder  Mr.  Thomson  to  the  eastern  shore* 
of  Victoria  Nyanza  and  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa,  we 
have  contributed,  either  by  grants  of  money  or  of  instruments,  to  several  others, 
from  which  we  may  expect  interesting  results  in  the  course  of  tiie  current  Session. 
The  last  news,  received  of  Mr.  Thomson  are  very  satisfactory.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  about  the  close  of  last  Session  we  were  informed  by  tel^ram  from  Zanziber 
that  our  adventurous  young  traveller  had  met  with  a  check  on  entering  the  Masai 
country  to  the  north-west  of  Mount  Kilimanjaro,  a  large  force  of  that  warlike 
tribe  having  gathered  to  oppose  his  progress,  in  consequence  it  was  said  oi  some  of 
them  having  been  killed  a  short  time  before  by  Dr.  Fischer's  party,  which  had 
entered  the  country  by  a  route  quite  different  from  that  chosen  by  Mr.  Thomson, 
and  was  then,  to  the  great  disturbance  of  his  plans  and  calculations,  found  to  be  on 
the  track  which  he  was  pursuing,  and  only  a  few  days  ahead  of  him.  Mr.  Thomson 
promptly  and  prudently  beat  a  retreat^  and  returned  to  Taveta,  at  the  south-eastern 
foot  of  Kilimanjara  Here  he  left  his  party  encamped,  and  with  a  few  attendants 
only  made  a  rapid  march  to  the  coast  at  Mombasa  in  order  to  replenish  his  supplies 
before  making  a  fresh  start  into  the  unexplored  region.  The  date  of  his  retreat  was 
the  9th  of  May ;  by  the  2nd  of  July  he  was  back  again  at  Taveta,  found  his  caravan 
n^rly  intact,  and  luckily  meeting  with  a  large  Swahili  trading  party  going  in  the 
same  direction — at  least  for  some  days*  march-coined  his  forces  to  theirs,  and  is 
now  believed  to  be  well  on  his  way  towards  his  destination.  Meantime  Dr.  Fisdier 
has  returned  to  the  coast.  It  appears  that  the  German  naturalist  was  making  for 
the  renowned  Lake  Bahriogo,  first  heard  of  and  reported  by  Captains  Speke  and 
Grant,  but  was  prevented  by  the  hostility  of  the  Masai  from  reaching  it,  though  he 
got  as  far  as  the  smaller  Lake  Naivash,  where  he  stayed  some  weeks,  investigating 
the  natural  history  of  that  hitherto  unvisited  district.  Ha  reached  Zanzibar  safely 
with  his  collections  in  August,  and  embarked  soon  after  for  Hamburg,  to  render  an 
account  of  his  explorations  to  the  Geographical  Society  of  that  city,  under  whose 
auspices  he  undertook  his  important  journey. 

Two  other  expeditions  with  which  the  Society  is  more  inmiediately  connected, 
are  that  of  Mr.  O'Neill,  Consul  at  Mozambique,  who  has  already  accomplished  so 
nfuch,  in  the  wide  region,  previously  a  blank  on  our  maps,  inland  from  the  Mozam- 
bique coast,  and  who  started  early  in  June  on  an  exploration  of  greater  extent  than 
his  previous  ones,  to  the  rumoured  lakes  and  snow>capped  peaks  midway  between 
the  coast  and  the  southern  part  of  Lake  Nyassa ;  and  that  of  Captain  Foot,  the 
newly-appointed  British  Consul  to  the  Lake  Regions,  who  takes  instruments  for 
mapping  the  new  districts  which  he  expects  to  traverse  in  the  course  of  his  ofiBcial 
duties.  From  both  these  zealous  and  able  explorers  we  may  expect  additions  tooor 
knowledge  of  great  interest  and  value. 

Considerable  public  interest,  not  wholly  scientific,  has  been  manifrated  during 
the  past  few  months  in  the  events  on  the  Congo.  So  far  as  these  relate  to  political 
considerations,  they  lie  outside  our  domain,  but  the  proceedings  of  Stanley  and  other 
explorers  have  lately  added  greatly  to  our  geographical  and  ethnological  knowledge 
of  the  basin  of  this  great  river ;  and  some  of  the  discoveries,  which  have  not  hitherto 
been  fully  made  public,  are  of  high  interest  and  importance.   We  owe  our  knowledge 


BEPORT  OP  THE  EVENIKG  MEETINOS.  731 

of  these  chiefly  to  Mr.  H.  H.  Johnston,  who  visited  Mr.  Stanley's  station  on  the 
Oongo,  early  in  the  summer  on  his  return  from  the  river  Cun^n^,  whither  he  had 
accompanied  Lord  Mayo,  and  who  has  contributed  during  the  vacation  a  paper 
giving  a  preliminary  outline  of  his  journey  to  our  *  Proceedings.*  As  we  are  about 
to  hear  from  Mr.  Johnston's  own  lips  a  fidler  account  of  his  observations  on  that 
region,  I  will  not  anticipate  him  by  saying  anything  further  on  the  subject.  But, 
before  quitting  this  part  of  Africa,  I  will  venture  to  predict  that,  interesting  and 
important  as  are  the  recent  additions  to  our  knowledge  in  the  Congo  basin,  we  are 
likely  to  hear  before  long  of  others  not  less  so.  Mr.  Johnston  himself  is  preparing  to 
return  to  the  Congo  and  to  conduct  an  expedition  up  the  Aruwimi,  its  great  northern 
tributary,  towards  the  rumoured  new  Central  African  lake,  and  the  waters  of  the 
Upper  Nile ;  and  we  hear  from  Germany,  that  Dr.  Flegel,  the  experienced  Niger 
traveller,  has  accepted  a  grant  of  20002.  from  the  German  African  Society  tp  enable 
him  to  traverse  the  wide  region  at  present  quite  unknown  between  the  Binue  and 
Adamawa  and  the  northern  bend  of  the  Congo.  Dr.  Flegel  on  a  recent  journey 
discovered  the  sources  of  the  Binue,  and  is  reported  to  have  started  on  his  new  tmder- 
taking  with  confidence  of  success. 

The  exploration  of  New  Guinea  is  a  subject  which  has  also  excited  a  large  and 
growing  amoimt  of  public  interest  in  the  interval  since  our  last  meeting.  The  paper 
by  Mr.  Powell  to  which  you  listened  last  Session,  must  have  made  evident  to  you 
the  scantiness  of  our  knowledge  of  this  great  island.  The  coast-line  and  its  off-lying 
islands  he  showed  to  be  very  imperfectly  known,  and,  with  regard  to  the  interior, 
his  exploration,  during  a  cruise  lasting  eighteen  months  along  a  thousand  miles  of 
coast,  was  limited  to  an  inland  climb  of  a  few  miles  during  a  day's  excursion. 
Other  travellers  on  the  same  parts  of  the  coast,  including  M.  Miklukho-Maclay,  the 
celebrated  Russian  ethnologist,  who  spent  many  months  alone  with  the  natives  in 
Astrolabe  Bay,  have  not  accomplished  much  more.  In  the  southern  and  western 
parts  of  the  island,  the  utmost  extent  of  exploration  into  the  interior,  by  land,  has 
been  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Port  Moresby,  where  Mr.  Lawes  and  other  agents  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  who  have  happily  gained  the  confidence  of  the 
natives,  appear  not  to  have  penetrated  more  than  30  miles  inland.  Dr.  A.  B.  Meyer, 
the  German  naturalist,  one  of  the  most  enterprising  of  New  Guinea  travellers, 
endeavoured  in  1873,  with  faithful  native  companions,  to  cross  the  isthmus  between 
the  main  island  and  the  north-western  peninsula,  but  was  able,  after  two  attempts, 
to  penetrate  only  about  ten  miles.  He  afterwards  crossed  the  minor  isthmus  from 
sea  to  sea,  between  Geelvink  Bay  and  MacCluer  Inlet,  a  som'ewhat  longer  distance ; 
and  some  of  his  party,  as  well  as  Signor  D'Albertis  in  the  previous  year,  reached 
the  Mount  Arfak  range  in  the  north  of  the  peninsula.  The  interior,  in  fact,  has 
been  penetrated  to  any  considerable  distance  only  along  the  course  of  risers. 
Signor  D'Albertis,  in  his  ascent  of  the  Fly  River  in  1876,  estimated  the  distance 
travelled  at  500  miles;  but  except  for  the  first  100  miles  or  a  little  more, 
his  little  steamer  voyaged  between  two  lofty  walls  of  forest,  rising  from  level 
alluvial  banks  apparently  destitute  of  inhabitants,  and  beyond  the  course  of 
the  stream  little  or  nothing  was  added  to  our  knowledge  of  the  country.  If 
the  descriptions  of  Dr.  Meyer  in  the  north-west,  and  those  of  Mr.  Lawes  and 
Lieutenant  Armit  *  in  the  south-east,  are  to  be  taken  as  generally  characteristic 


♦  The  leader  of  an  expedition  sent  this  summer  to  explore  the  interior  by  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  Melbourne  Argus.  Lieutenant  Armit  and  his  party  entered  at  Port 
Moresby  and  crossed  Mount  Astrolabe,  reaching,  as  it  appears^  the  furthest  point  attained 
by  the  agents  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  i.  e.  some  23  or  80  miles  inland.  The 
expedition  broke  down  through  fever,  which  attacked  several  <rf'  its  members. 


7^  KEPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 

of  the  country,  it  is,  except  in  the  densely  wooded  valleys  of  the  great  rivers, 
most  rugged  and  difficult  to  traverse;  immediately  from  the  coast  the  routes 
lead  by  abrupt  ascents  and  descents  over  the  minor  hills,  and  a  little  further 
in  the  interior  ridges  and  peaks  are  seen  rising,  in  some  parts  to  10,000  feet  or  more, 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  On  the  north-eastern  coast,  Mr.  Powell,' as  you  will 
remember,  described  the  country  as  rising  almost  immediately  from  the  sea,  by  a 
series  of  steep  ascents  and  terraces,  to  plateaux  of  great  elevation,  which  in  the 
place  visited  were  cleft  by  a  deep  defile.  The  population  is  numerous  in  the 
river  deltas,  and  on  the  small  tracts  of  flat  swampy  land  near  the  coasts,  but  appears 
to  be  generally  scanty  in  the  hills,  and  the  tribes  in  many  localities  have  shown  a 
determined  hostility  to  Europeans.  The  traveller  has  to  carry  his  provisions  ia 
addition  to  all  his  other  baggage,  and  the  means  of  transport  for  a  long  journey  are 
at  present  wanting,  there  being  no  beasts  of  burden  or  native  porters  that  can  he 
relied  on. 

Such  are  the  obstacles  to  exploration  which  must  suggest  themselves  to  any  one 
who  reads  the  accounts  of  the  few  travellers  who  have  attempted  journeys  by  land ; 
but  they  are  not  likely  to  deter  the  adventurous  and  indomitable  explorers  of  the 
present  generation,  for  whom  the  large  rivers  offer  inviting  openings ;  we  may  sora, 
therefore,  expect  to  hear  of  many  projects  of  New  Guinea  expeditions,  some  of 
them  animated  by  other  hopes  and  aspirations  than  those  of  the  geographical 
traveller. 

With  the  desire  to  secure  a  well-directed  scientific  exploration  of  the  interior,  the 
British  Association  at  their  recent  meeting  at  Southport  appointed  a  Committise  to 
confer  with  the  Council  of  the  Association  as  to  the  best  means  of  attaining  that 
object.  Now  that  our  Society  has  reassembled  no  time  will  be  lost  in  giving  joint 
consideration  to  this  interesting  subject.  It  seems  before  all  things  desirable  that 
knowledge,  full  and  trustworthy,  unbiassed  by  commercial  speculations  and  visions 
of  territorial  aggrandisement,  should  be  acquired  and  disseminated  with  the  least 
possible  delay ;  and  I  venture  to  think  that  this  knowledge,  which  ought  to  precede 
any  decisive  action  either  by  the  Imperial  or  Colonial  Governments,  could  be  mo«t 
effectually  obtained  by  purely  scientific  exploration— directed,  as  further  oonudera- 
tion  may  suggest,  on  one  or  more  lines  of  advance.  To  act  in  ignorance  either  of  the 
character  of  the  people  to  be  encountered  or  of  the  country  to  be  colonised,  seems  not 
only  the  height  of  rashness,  but  a  course  which  may  gravely  affect  the  fair  flame  ot 
England,  and  bring  shame  upon  those  who  value  her  reputation,  while  it  will  confirm 
much  that  our  bitterest  enemies  havo  said  of  our  insatiable  greed  of  territory,  and 
of  the  high-handed  and  remorseless  fashion  in  which  we  gratify  that  passion. 

What  ISr.  Powell  told  us  of  the  few  tribes  with  which  he  came  into  contact, 
conveyed  the  impression  of  a  people  jealous  of  their  personal  independence,  and 
keenly  nlive  to  the  rights  of  property.  Let  us  learn  more  about  them,  and  not  fall 
back  uyxm  the  plea  of  ignorance  to  justify  national  indifference  to  the  vioUtion  of 
their  rights  or  the  sacrifice  of  their  lives.  Burke  has  painted  in  coloura  which 
never  can  fade,  the  picture  of  a  civilised  people  bent,  without  due  restraint  and 
control,  upon  making  rapid  fortunes  at  the  cost  of  a  subject  and  weaker  race  :— 
"Animated  with  all  the  avarice  of  age,  and  all  the  impetuosity  of  youth,  they 
roll  in  one  after  the  other ;  wave  after  wave ;  and  there  is  nothing  before  the  eyes 
of  the  natives  but  an  endless,  hopeless  prospect  of  new  flights  of  birds  of  prey  and 
passage,  with  appetites  continually  renewing  for  a  food  that  is  continually  wasting.'* 
We  boast  of  living  in  an  age  in  which  consciences  are  more  sensitive,  and  in  which 
there  prevails  a  greater  regard  for  the  rights  of  others  than  in  the  post.  I  trust  that 
our  conduct  as  a  people  with  respect  to  this  vast  island,  with  its  unknown  millions  of 
inhabitants,  may  justify  the  boast.      But  again  1  say,  let  there  be  more  light. 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  733 

before  we  commit  ourselves  to  decisive  action ;  and  let  that  light  be  the  clear  calm 
illumination  of  sdentific  research.  With  so  important  an  object  before  us,  we  may 
indulge  a  sanguine  hope  of  receiving  the  sympathy  and  assistance  of  Government. 

Explorations  in  one  region  or  another  of  the  great  continent  of  Asia  are  con- 
tinually in  progress,  and  it  would  be  impossible  in  this  brief  outline  to  notice  them 
in  detail.  The  remarkable  journey  of  the  Pundit  A k  from  India  across  South- 
eastern Tibet  to  Weistem  China  and  back,  which  has  during  our  recess  been 
frequently  noticed  in  the  daily  press,  was  recorded  as  fally  as  official  reticence  in 
India  permitted  in  oiu:  *  Proceedings  *  for  February,  and  referred  to  in  your  Annual 
Address  in  May.  llie  most  important,  however,  of  all  recent  expeditions  in  Central 
Asia  are  that  of  Mr.  M*Nair,  who  has  succeeded  in  crossing  into  Chitral  and  the 
Swat  Valley,  and  who  will  give  ua  an  account  of  his  adventurous  journey  at  our 
December  meeting ;  and  the  new  exploration  of  Colonel  Prejevalsky,  who  started  in 
August  last  with  a  large  and  well-equipped  party  to  make  his  third  and,  as  he 
hopes,  his  most  successful  attempt  to  explore  the  whole  of  Tibet.  Colonel  Prejevalsky 
is,  as  is  well  known,  an  accomplished  naturalist  and  physical  geographer,  and  rich 
scientiHc  results  may  fairly  be  expected  from  this  expedition. 

I  must  not  conclude  without  some  references  to  recent  Arctic  expeditions.  We 
have  witnessed  with  pleasure  the  safe  return  of  several  of  the  expeditions  which  have 
wintered  in  remote  regions.  Two  among  them,  the  Dutch  expedition  in  the  Varna  on 
its  way  to  found  a  station  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei,  and  the  Danish  expedition 
under  Lieutenant  Hovgaard,  in  the  Dijmphna,  were,  on  their  outward  voyage  in 
the  autumn  of  1882,  caught  in  the  ice  in  the  Kara  Sea  and  imprisoned  for  the 
winter.  The  Varna  was  crushed  by  ice  pressure  in  the  course  of  the  winter 
(December  24th),  and  sank  in  July,  the  Dutch  scientific  staff  and  crew  taking 
refuge  on  board  the  Danish  vessel.  Happily  both  parties  have  returned  safely  this 
summer.  The  Austro-Hungarian  party,  which  wintered  in  Jan  Mayen,  have  also 
returned  after  a  satisfactory  winter's  work,  and  the  Swedish  and  German  expeditions 
in  similar  way  have  been  brought  safely  home.  An  exception  to  the  happy  issue  of 
these  various  national  scientific  enterprises  in  the  Arctic  Sea,  is  to  be  feared  in  the 
large  party  sent  by  the  United  States  Government  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay  in  Smith 
Sound  in  the  summer  of  1881.  This  party  consisted  of  twenty-four  officers  and 
men,  chiefly  of  the  signal  service  of  the  United  States  Army,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  Greely.  The  summer  of  1881  was  an  exceptionally  mild  one  in  Arctic 
America,  and  the  vessel  conveying  the  party  had  a  swift  and  pleasant  run  up  Smith 
Sound  from  Upernivik ;  but  the  two  following  summers,  1882  and  1883,  were  cold 
and  boisterous ;  and  relief  ships  sent  by  the  United  States  Government  have  failed 
to  penetrate  into  Smith  Sound.  The  vessel,  the  Proteus,  sent  this  year  for  the 
purpose  of  bringing  them  away,  was  crushed  in  the  ice  and  wrecked  on  the  23rd  of 
July,  the  crew  escaping  with  difficulty  to  another  vessel,  the  TantiCf  at  Cape  York. 

There  is  much  reason  to  fear  that  some  disaster  has  befallen  these  gallant  men, 
and  that  some  of  them  have  perished  during  their  prolonged  detention  in  that  most 
rigorous  portion  of  the  Polar  regions.  Such  a  fate,  happening  to  any  people,  would 
be  certain  to  evoke  our  warm  regrets;  but  the  feeling  is  heightened  when  we 
remember  with  how  keen  a  sympathy  the  American  people  have  ever  followed  the 
disasters  of  British  adventurers  in  Arctic  seas;  and  how  generous  and  untiring 
have  been  their  efforts  to  carry  relief  to  the  sufferers,  as  long  as  the  slightest  chance 
remained  of  their  being  still  in  the  land  of  the  living. 

A  more  fortunate  fate  attended  the  expedition  of  Baron  de  Nordenskiold  this 
summer  to  Greenland,  undertaken  with  the  intention  of  penetrating  to  the  interior 
of  that  vast  ice-clad  country.  Although  the  eminent  Arctic  explorer  did  not  dis- 
cover what  theoretical  considerations  had  led   him  to  expect,  a  comparatively 


734  REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS. 

temperate  region  in  the  interior,  his  land  parties  succeeded  in  penetrating  230  milet 
inland,  finding  the  land  rising  from  6000  and  7000  feet  of  elevation,  and  everywhere 
covered  with  icet.  Thus  this  illustrious  traveller  has  once  more  made  a  yaloable 
contribution  to  our  knowledge  of  unknown  northern  regions,  nott>nly  by  clearing  away 
doubtful  surmises,  but  by  establishing  interesting  facts. 

In  closing  my  brief  review  of  the  chief  events  of  geographical  interest  during  the 
few  months  which  separate  us  from  our  last  Annual  Meeting,  I  would  conclude 
by  asking  whether  both  by  the  additions  they  have  made  to  our  actual  knowledge, 
and  the  prospects  they  present  of  new  light  dawning  on  many  dark  regions  of  vast 
extent  and  high  interest,  ample  proof  is  not  adduced  of  the  immense  field  which  still 
remains  in  various  parts  of  the  globe,  to  stimulate  the  activity  and  reward  the 
enterprise  of  well-accoutred  travellers,  capable  of  gratifying  the  learned  eorioeity  of 
a  more  exacting  and  critical  age  ? 


During  our  recess  we  have  suffered  the  loss  of  an  eminent  Arctic  navigator,  Vice- 
Admiral  Sir  Richard  Coilinson,  k.cb.  During  his  long  connection  with  this  Society, 
he  took  a  large  and  active  part  in  its  aflTairs,  having  served  either  as  Vice-President 
or  as  a  Member  of  Gotmcil  for  eighteen  years,  working  indefatigably  on  several  of 
our  Committees.  I  cannot  deny  myself  the  pleasnrc  of  making  some  reference  to 
his  full  and  active  career,  which  made  him  so  useful  a,  member  of  our  Society.  He 
may  be  said  to  have  been  an  hydrographer  from  his  youth,  for  be  entered  the  Royal 
Navy  at  twelve  years  old,  and  five  years  afterwards,  in  1828,  he  was  a  midshipmsn 
on  board  the  Chanticleer^  on  its  voyage  of  scientific  research  in  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific;  it  was  here,  under  Captain  Foster,  that  he  imbibed  his  tastes  and  habits  of 
nautical  surveying.  Again,  in  1835,  when  a  lieutenant,  he  was  in  the  surveying 
expedition  of  the  Sulphur  and  Starling^  under  Captain  Beechey  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

He  had  by  that  time  gained  the  esteem  and  friendship  of  that  able  chief  of  the 
Hydrographic  Department,  Captain  Beaufort;  and  through  his  influence,  at  the 
outbreak  of  the  Chinese  war  of  1841,  Lieutenant  Coilinson  was  appointed  Surveying 
Officer  to  the  fleet.  The  duties  of  this  position,  at  that  time  a  somewhat  novel  one, 
involved  frequently  great  responsibilities,  and  called  into  prompt  action  not  only  all 
the  best  qualities  of  a  naval  surveyor,  but  those  of  a  bold  and  able  war  officer.  The 
record  of  his  services  in  that  position  belongs  rather  to  the  history  of  the  war,  thui 
to  the  proceedings  of  the  Geographical  Society  ;  it  is  suflBcient  to  notice  here  that 
in  concert  with  his  friend  Captain  H.  Kellet,  who,  in  the  Btarling,  had  opp(»rtunely 
arrived  with  the  surveying  expedition  from  the  Pacific,  the  fleet  was  sttcoeflsfiilly 
piloted  into  many  of  the  unknown  waters  of  China ;  the  chief  exploit  being  the 
penetration  of  the  war  ships  up  the  Yang-tse-Eiang,  to  the  unprecedented  distance 
of  200  miles.  For  these  services  Lieutenant  CoUinton  came  out  of  the  war  «  post- 
captain  and  a  c.b. 

It  is  more  interesting  to  geographical  science  to  note  that  after  the  war,  C^ptwn 
Coilinson  in  the  Plover^  assisted  by  Lieutenant  Bate  in  the  Toung  Hebe,  devoted 
three  years  to  the  survey  of  the  Chinese  coast  from  Hong  Kong  to  Chusan  ;  making 
those  charts  which, have  been  the  guides  to  the  immense  maritime  traffic  since 
opened  up  in  those  seas. 

But  the  work  for  which  he  will  perhaps  be  longest  known  in  the  geographical 
annals  was  accomplished  in  command  of  the  Enterprise  and  the  InvestigaioT  in 
search  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  unfortunate  expedition  in  the  Arctic  Seas.  In  January 
1850  those  two  vessels  left  England,  traversed  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  and 
entered  the  Arctic  Sea  by  Behring*8  Straits.  The  story  of  their  successes  and  of  their 
failures  has  been  fully  recorded  in  the  Journals  of  the  Society,  where  it  is  told  how 
the  vessels  were  separated,  and  how  Captain  Maclure  in  the  Investigator  discovered 


REPORT  OF  THE  EVENING  MEETINGS.  736 

the  North-west  Passage,  but  paid  the  penalty  of  his  ambition  in  the  sacrifice  of 
his  ship ;  how  tho  JEiUerprise  spent  three  years  and  more  battling  her  way  east- 
ward along  the  coast  of  North  America,  and  got  almost  within  sight  of  the  spot 
where  after  three  more  anxious  years  the  relics  of  the  lost  expedition  were  fintdly 
foond  by  Captain  MHDlintock,  a  good  fortune  which  was  denied  to  the  Enterpriae 
owing  to  a  series  of  unavoidable  mishaps ;  and  how  after  this  protracted  warfore  with 
ice  and  with  disappointed  hopes  she  fought  her  way  out  again,  with  ship  and  crew 
in  sound  condition,  having  added  greatly  to  our  knowledge  of  that  little-known 
eoast,  as  well  as  of  many  other  places  visited  by  her  in  the  course  of  her  five  and  a 
half  years*  sailing  in  the  open  seas. 

Since  that  time  Admiral  CoUinson  has  been  employed  on  a  service  kindred  to 
the  purposes  of  the  Society,  and  suited  to  his  hydrographic  abilities,  in  the  Corpora- 
tjon  of  the  Trinity  House,  of  which  he  has  been  a  prominent  member,  and  latterly 
the  Tn^ttftging  head.  Throughout  all  his  services,  whether  in  the  Chinese  war,  or 
Arctic  exploration,  or  looking  after  the  safe  navigation  of  our  coasts,  he  has  evinced 
the  qualities  which  go  to  make  a  good  maritime  explorer  as  well  as  an  honest  and 
devoted  servant  of  his  queen  and  country. . 

M.  DE  Lessbps. 

After  introducing  to  the  Meeting  Mr.  H.  H.  Johnston,  the  author  of  the  paper 
about  to  be  read,  the  President  announced  the  presence  as  a  visitoj*  that  evening  of 
M.  Ferdinand  de  Lessepe.    He  said  he  was  quite  sure  that  no  one  present  would  be 
satisfied  unless  be  made  some  reference  to  their  distinguished  guest.    M.  de  Lesseps 
would  be  entitled  to  a  warm  recognition  in  virtue  of  his  position  as  President  of  the 
Qeographical  Society  of  Paris,  but  he  was  also  known  as  one  who  had  done  much  to 
promote  geographical  research.  Apart  from  those  great  enterprises  which  had  more  of 
commercial  than  geographical  interest,  he  had  set  on  foot  remarkable  projects  on  the 
south-eastern  coast  of  Tunis,  with  the  object  of  letting  the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean 
into  a  portion  of  the  Sahara.    But  perhaps  it  was  not  so  generally  known  that  one  of 
the  first  persons  of  eminence  who  took  up  the  admirable  scheme  of  the  King  of  the 
Belgians,  called  the  African  International  Association  for  promoting  discovery  and 
founding  nuclei  of  civilisation  in  that  continent,  and  at  the  same  time  excluding 
thoee  national  jealousies  and  rivalries  which  had  often  done  so  much  harm,  was  M.  de 
Lesseps.    He  responded  most  cordially  to  the  invitation  of  the  King  of  the  Belgians, 
and  it  was  through  his  instrumentality  that  M.  de  Brazza  commenced  those  remark- 
able discoveries  on  the  Ogow^  which  made  his  name  famous  long  before  more  recent 
events  of  other  than  geographical  interest  on  the  banks  of  the  Congo.    But  great  as 
these  services  were,  every  one  would  agree  that  they  were  small  as  compared  with 
what  he  had  done  for  the  whole  civilised  world.    All  were  familiar  with  the  hyper- 
bolical language  of  the  enamoured  youth  who  wished  that  time  and  space  might  be 
annihilated  to  make  two  lovers  happy.    Time  and  space  were  two  obstinate  things, 
and  would  not  be  annihilated ;  but  M.  de  Lesseps  had  gone  a  great  way  in  reducing 
the  obstacles  caused  by  space  and  adding  enormously  to  tho  value   of  time ;  and 
all  present  would  be  delighted  to  find  that  time,  for  which  he  had  done  so  much,  had 
respected  him  so  well,  and  that  with  all  the  experience  and  the  hoarded  knowledge 
of  age  he  had  the  fire  of  youth — an  amount  of  fire  which  might  make  many  a  young 
man  ashamed  of  himself.    They  hoped  that  M.  de  Lesseps  would  yet  enjoy  many 
"  crowded  hours  of  glorious  life,"  and  that  during  the  time  it  was  permitted  him  to 
remain  upon  earth  he  would  perform  as  many  services,  not  to  his  own  country 
alone,  but  to  the  whole  civilised  world,  as  he  had  been  able  to  render  in  the  years 
gone  by.    In  saying  this  he  was  sure  he  only  represented,  however  weakly,  the 
feelings  with  which  they  were  all  animated  towards  M.  de  Lesseps. 


736  PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

M.  DB  Lesseps  asked  permiBrion  to  say  a  few  words: — First  thankiog  Um 
President  for  the  kind  manner  in  which  he  bad  announced  his  presence  on  that 
occasion,  he  said  that  some  twenty-seven  years  ago  he  was  present  at  a  meeting  of  the 
Iloyal  Geographical  Society  at  which  an  English  traveller  had  introduced  a  project 
for  uniting  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans  by  the  river  Atrato,  in  New  (jranada. 
It  was  remarkable  that  in  all  the  early  schemes  for  joining  the  Mediterraneko 
with  the  Bed  Sea,  or  the  Pacific  with  the  Atlantic,  it  was  a  union  by  means  of 
tbe  rivers  only  that  was  entertained.  The  engineers  had  not  thought  of  uniting 
sea  to  sea  by  cutting  through  the  land.  It  remained  for  a  diplomatist  to  conceiTe 
this  very  simple  idea,  and  al^ough  people  had  spoken  of  him  as  an  engineer,  he 
must  disavow  all  claim  to  that  honourable  title.  Since  the  year  1849,  when  he 
gave  up  political  life,  he  had  employed  his  leisure  in  studying  the  question  of  tbe 
piercing  of  isthmuses,  and  be  congratulated  himself  in  the  presence  of  an  Engliib 
audience  in  having  been  useful  to  a  friendly  nation.  He  bad  now  come  to  En^and 
in  order  to  dissiimte  regretable  misunderstandings,  and  to  prove  to  Englishmen  his 
desire  to  augment  the  prosperity  of  their  country. 

The  following  paper  was  then  read  :—^ 

"The  Kiver  Congo,  from  its  mouth  to  Bol6b6,  with  Notes  on  the  Physical 
Geography,  Resources,  and  Prospects  of  tbe  Congo  Basin.**    By  H.  H.  Johnston. 

Vide  ante,  p.  692. 

PB00EEDING8  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris.— November  9th,  1883 :  M.  Bouquet  db  u 
Grte,  Yice-President  of  the  Central  Commission,  in  the  Chair. — Tbe  Society  on  the 
above  date  recommenced  its  meetings,  which  owing  to  the  usual  vacation,  had  not 
been  held  siuce  the  latter  end  of  July.  Among  tbe  numerous  letters,  pamphlets,  Ac, 
which  had  accumulated  during  the  recess  the  following  works  were  mentioned  u 
bearing  on  the  topic  of  the  day  in  France — *  Les  Fran9ais  an  Tong  King,*  by  M.  H. 
Gautier ;  *  Le  Tong  King,'  by  M,  Thureau ;  a  pamphlet  entitled  *  La  Guerre  avec  la 
Chine ;  la  politique  colon iale  et  la  question  du  Tong  King*; '  Les  Giscments  bouillen 
du  Tong  King,'  a  report  by  M.  Fuchs  to  the  Minister  of  Public  Works;  and  *U 
Cochinchine  contemporaiue,'  by  MM.  Bouinais  and  Paulus. — The  Minister  of  Public 
Works  transmitted  the  sheets  composing  the  4tb  and  5th  parts  of  the  map  of  France, 
scale  1 : 1,200,000.  M.  Tafiropoulo  presented  to  the  Society  the  map  of  the  Byzantine 
Empire,  which  he  has  bad  prepared  for  the  schools  of  Greece  by  Kiepert,  the  learned 
geographer.  This  map,  together  with  the  three  others  already  published,  complete  the 
series  of  maps  of  Greece  from  the  fifth  century  up  to  the  present  time.  M.  Barr<)te, 
Lieutenant  of  tbe  6l8t  regiment  (infantry)  tendered  to  the  Society  an  album  containing 
surveys  of  the  various  itineraries  made  in  Tunis  during  the  campaign  of  1881-2  by 
the  expedition  of  which  he  formed  part,  he  having  been  commissioned  to  make  sudi 
surveys.  This  work  is  not  on  sale. — ^The  Chairman  then  announced  the  death  of 
M.  Guyot,  the  courageous  French  missionary,  who  was  drowned  in  tbe  Congo  near 
Stanley  Pool,  and  that  of  M.  Trouillet,  who  also  met  his  death  on  the  Congo,  an 
account  of  wbich  will  be  found  below.  M.  Bouquet  de  la  Grye  intimated  that  M. 
Dutreuil  du  Hbins,  who  followed  M.  de  Brazza  and  bad  returned  home  some  weeks 
previously,  was  present  at  the  meeting.  In  reply  to  questions  concerning  M.  de 
Brazza  and  especially  on  the  subject  of  the  reported  death  of  the  explorer,  which  wis 
alleged  to  have  taken  place  on  tbe  banks  of  the  Congo,  M.  du  Rhins  said  that, 
according  to  his  calculations,  M.  de  Brazza  was  not  due  at  the  Congo  until  the 
beginning  of  October  and  that,  supposing  his  death  to  have  occurred  in  the  manner 
reix)rted,  the  news  could  not  possibly  have  as  yet  arrived  in  Europe.    M.  du  Rhins 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  737 

had  parted  company  with  the  explorer  on  the  5th  of  July  last,  at  a  point  373  miles 
^600  kilometres)  distant  from  the  coast ;  all  was  well  at  that  time.  M.  de  Brazza,  in 
reascending  the  Ogow^,  had  given  proo&  of  his  usual  activity.  M.  du  Rhins  did  not 
make  any  further  ohservations,  being  unwilling  to  trespass  upon  the  report  which 
M.  de  Brazza  would  address  to  the  Minister  of  the  Navy  upon  his  present  journey. 
The  country  traversed  by  M.  du  Ehins  extends  from  Gaboon  to  Lambarena,  and  the 
whole  of  the  district  appeared  to  him  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar-cane, 
indiarubber  plant,  and  oil-yielding  palm.  The  other  productions  of  the  country  are, 
it  appears,  only  local,  and  offer  no  prospects  for  an  extensive  and  remunerative 
export  trade ;  moreover  it  would  be  necessary  to  construct  roads.  He  wished  it  to  be 
understood,  however,  that  in  the  foregoing  calculation  an  exception  is  made  in  favour 
of  ivory,  and  also  the  redwot^  and  other  species  which  are  useful  for  the  construction 
of  boats,  cabins,  and  woodwork  of  various  kinds. — A  letter  was  received  from 
Major-General  Michael  Yenukoff,  stating  the  chief  facts  in  connection  with  the 
geographical  movements  in  Russia  during  the  last  four  months.  The  correspondent 
announces  the  following  publications :  a  good  map  of  the  existing  roads  of  Russia  in 
Europe,  which  is  published  by  the  Government ;  the  first  volume  of  a  comprehensive 
work  on  Turcomania,  by  General  Grodekoff;  an  account  of  the  voyage  of  M. 
Poliakoff  to  Saghalien  Island,  where  he  stayed  for  thirteen  months  (1881-2). 
The  lai^e  map  of  Bulgaria  has  been  continued  by  the  War  Office  at  St  Petersburg, 
and  M.  Lessar,  it  appears,  read  before  the  Geographical  Society  of  that  city  a 
summarised  account  of  his  explorations  (this  report  has  not  yet  been  printed).  The 
letter  states  that  the  commander  of  the  meteorological  station  in  Novaya  Zemlya  had 
returned,  but  that  the  members  of  the  station  at  the  mouth  of  the  Iksoa  will  remain 
at  their  post  for  another  winter. — An  editor  of  the  *  Gec^raphische  Mittheilungen  * 
writes  to  the  Society  {^vising  the  publication  of  biographical  notices  of  travellers  and 
French  geographers,  similar  to  those  which  appear  in  the  '  Proceedings '  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  of  London  and  are,  he  adds,  an  excellent  source  of  informa- 
tion.— With  reference  to  the  recent  earthquakes.  Dr.  Fr.  Delisle,  in  a  letter  addressed 
to  the  Society,  establishes  a  correlation  between  the  disastrous  earthquake  which 
occurred  in  the  Straits  of  Sunda,  and  the  shocks  experienced  on  the  27th  August  in 
the  Islands  of  Mauritius  and  Reunion.  Concerning  the  appalling  catastrophe  of 
the  Sunda  Straits,  M.  de  la  Croix,  an  engineer  and  companion  of  M.  Brau  de  St.  Pol 
Lias,  wrote  from  Lahat  on  the  29th  September,  giving  an  account  of  the  eruption  of 
the  volcano  of  Krakatoa,  the  detonations  of  which  he  himself  distinctly  heard. 
They  seemed  to  him  to  be  like  the  shots  of  a  gun  discharged  some  two  or  three  miles 
away,  whereas  Lahat  is  situated  at  a  distance  of  746  miles  (1200  kilometres)  from 
the  volcano.  At  the  time  of  writing,  our  correspondent  was  entertaining  as  a  guest 
the  Governor-General  of  the  Straits  Settiements,  who  had  come  to  christen  a  new 
machine  to  be  used  for  the  mining  operations  which  M.  De  la  Croix  is  directing. — 
M.  Brau  De  St  Pol  Lias  completed  the  details  given  in  the  forgoing  letter.  He 
presented  first  of  all  to  the  Society  a  drawing  representing  the  section  in  elevation  of 
the  Straits  of  Sunda,  which  gives  a  very  clear  idea  of  the  scene  of  the  event  This 
unpublished,  or  at  least  unengraved,  plan  forms  part  of  the  work — ^unfortunately 
not  completed — of  a  commission  sent  to  the  Indies  in  1825  by  the  Dutch  Govern- 
ment, which  for  some  10  or  12  years  explored  the  islands  of  Java,  Sumatra,  Borneo, 
Timor,  &c  It  was  upon  the  coast  of  Sumatra  that  the  most  singular  phenomena 
were  produced  by  the  earthquake.  Thus  Tolok-Betoung  since  the  catastrophe  is  no 
longer  a  seaport  M.  Brau  informs  us  that  there  is  at  the  entrance  a  barrier,  com- 
posed of  pumice-stone,  19  miles  in  length,  two-thirds  of  a  mile  or  more  in  breadth, 
and  from  13  to  16  feet  in  depth.  This  barrier  is  not  stationary,  but  is  a  kind  of 
floating  jetty,  whidi  rises  about  3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  volcano 
No.  Xn.— Dbc.  1883.]  3  o 


738  PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

has,  therefore,  hurled  to  a  distance  of  25  miles  (40  kilometres)  some  5,000,000,000 
cnbio  feet  of  projectiles,  uoless  it  is  the  wave  which  has  carried  the  mass  there.  A 
captain,  who  was  going  through  the  Straits  on  that  day  (27th  August),  relates  tbtt 
his  ship  was  found  in  a  moment  in  the  midst  of  such  a  mass  of  human  bodies  floating 
on  the  surface  of  the  waves,  that  his  onward  progress  was  considerably  impeded;  it 
was  passing  through  literally  a  shoal  of  corpses.  However,  as  usually  happens  m 
similar  circumstances,  the  number  of  the  victims  has  been  grossly  exaggerated.  Tbe 
official  figure  would  appear  to  be  15,000,  according  to  information  furnished  to 
M.  Brau  by  the  Minister  of  the  Dutch  Colonies  himself. — News  was  received  from 
M.  Georges  B^voil,*  who  is  engaged  upon  a  mission  to  the  Somali  country.  Tbe 
letter  which  he  wrote  from  Gualidi,  on  the  Ouebi,  on  the  18th  of  September,  arrived, 
accompanied  by  a  much  more  detailed  report,  drawn  up  by  his  brother,  IL  Paul 
R^voil.  The  traveller,  it  appears,  having  left  Zanzibar  at  the  beginning  of  May  last, 
arrived  on  the  14th  at  Mogadozo,  where  he  remained  until  the  24th  or  26th  of 
June.  A  march  of  some  six  or  seven  hours  only  separated  him  from  Gualidi, 
where  he  arrived  the  same  evening,  but  he  was  compelled  to  stop  there  three 
months,  the  Sultan,  Omar  Yusuf,  dilly-dallyiog  with  promises.  The  Somali 
town  of  Gualidi,  on  the  Oiiebi-DoboY,  which  is  barely  100  feet  (30  metres)  broad, 
is  divided  into  six  districts,  ratuated  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  but  some  of  them 
are  rather  fur  removed  from  the  others.  The  Somalia  of  this  r^on  are  less  warlike 
than  those  of  Guardafui  but  are  more  crafty,  rapacious,  and  perhaps  more  (Tuel, 
than  the  latter.  On  the  19th  of  September  M.  B^voil  \ras  still  at  Gualidi, 
whence  he  was  hoping  to  depart  about  the  26th,  in  order  to  reach  Gananeh,  some 
twenty  or  thirty  days'  march  from  Gualidi.  His  intention  was  to  proceed  from 
there  to  the  country  of  the  Gallas,  and  thence  to  reach  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
Aden  vi&  Harrar. — ^M.  Thouar  forwarded  an  account  of  the  manners  and  customs  of 
the  Cbiriguano  Indians,  which  will  be  inserted  in  the  report  of  the  meetings.— 
A  letter  was  read  from  M.  Claude  Trouillet,  dated  from  Bouba  (Portuguese  Guinea, 
West  Africa),  where  the  author  happened  to  be  about  the  middle  of  June  last, 
having  journeyed  from  Boulam  (Bissi^os  Archipelago),  an  island  which  is  described 
in  one  of  his  previous  letters.!  The  town  of  Bouba  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  which,  according  to  our  correspondent,  is  a  magnificent  river,  its 
banks  being  clothed  with  a  superb  v^etation ;  indeed  one  might  fancy  it  was  a 
charming  lake,  with  its  tranquil  waters,  and  the  gentle  murmur  of  its  wavelets 
mingling  with  the  song  of  the  turtle-doves.  Bouba  itself  might,  according  to  the 
correspondent,  be  made  an  important  commercial  centre,  but  Portugal  is  too  poor  to 
give  sufficient  support  to  her  colonies.  Moreover,  this  military  station  has  only 
four  houses,  viz.  that  of  the  governor  and  three  commercial  establishnoents,  two  of 
which  were  closed  at  the  time  of  the  traveller's  visit.  The  soldiers  are  natives.  In 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  place  M.  Trouillet  came  upon  some  ants*  nests,  which  in 
some  instances  measure  several  yards  in  height  and  breadth.  At  the  time  of 
writing  he  was  engaged  in  acquiring  the  Futa-Djallon  language  which,  as  it  doe? 
not  exist  in  any  written  form,  is  regulated  solely  by  custom.  It  was  announced 
that  since  receiving  the  letter  above  referred  to,  M.  Trouillet  had  died,  having 
fallen  a  victim  to  fever.  A  telegram  received  from  the  Geographical  Sodety^f 
Lisbon  announced  his  death,  the  touching  details  of  which  form  the  subject  of  a 
letter  from  M.  Alex.  Frins,  one  of  his  companions,  which  is  dated  2nd  August  from 
Bouba.  From  this  we  learn  that  the  Portuguese  were  most  assiduous  in  tiieir 
attentions  to  M.  Trouillet,  who  died  in  the  arms  of  the  governor.  The  latter  was 
the  chief  mourner,  and  the  hundred  men  composing  the  garrison  were  in-eeent  at  the 

♦  Antea,  p.  717.  f  8«e  antea^  pp.  558-9. 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  789 

faneral.    The  body,  which  was  borne  to  the  grave  by  Portuguese  officers/ was  laid  ia 
a  padded  coffin,  with  the  head  resting  on  a  cushion  upon  which  the  arms  of  Portngal 
were  emblazoned. — ^The  recent  despatches  received  from  Dr.  Bayol,  and  dated  from 
Balfulab^  June  17th,  were  submitted  to  the  Meeting.    They  give  a  riaum^  of  the 
results  of  the  explorations,  undertaken  by  him  in  conjunction  with  M.  Quinquandon, 
a  lieutenant  of   the   marine   infantry.      Having  started  from  Bamako  on  the 
16th  of  April,  the  French  mission  traversed  a  hitherto  unexplored  tract  of  country 
lying  between  the  left  bank  of  the  Niger  and  the  route  followed  by  M.  Lenz  on  his 
return  to  Senegal.     The  extreme  point  reached  by  the  travellers  was  Donabugn, 
on  the  east  of  Murdia.    All  the  country  as  far  as  Segala  has  been  placed  imder  the 
protectorate  of  France.    The  existing  map  of  these  districts  will  have  to  be  con- 
siderably altered,  the  explorers  having  surveyed  more  than  224  miles  (360  kilo- 
metres) of  new  country.    Moreover  M.  Quinquandon,  from  information  he  has 
obtained,  has  been  enabled  to  determine  the  positions  of  some  300  villages  outside 
the  actual  line  of  route.  The  population  of  the  country  is  stated  to  be  very  numerous, 
consisting  of  Bambaras,  Sarracolets,  and  Toucouleurs.    Among  the  important  towns. 
Dr.  Bayol  mentions  Murdia,  which  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  and  numbers 
some  2500  inhabitants.    From  there  come  caravans  to  exchange  blocks  of  salt  for 
gold,  slaves,  &c    Among  others  he  notices  Gk>mbu  (4500  souls),  whose  commercial 
importance  is  on  the  wane,  and  Sokolo  (Sualo  or  rather  Eala)  with  its  3000  in- 
habitants.   From  Kala  to  Segala  it  is  two  days'  march,  and  from  Eala  to  Timbucta 
four  days.    The  route  to  this  famous  market  (Timbuctu)  has  been  obstinately 
closed  against  travellers,  but  Dr.  Bayol  states  that  the  importance  of  the  place  has 
been  greatly  exaggerated. — From  a  Report  of  M.  Ledoulx,  French  Consul  at  Zanzibar, 
which  was  received  through  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  it  appears  that  the  French, 
missions  at  Monoha  and  Maudera  are  in  a  highly  prosperous  condition.    Yillagefr 
have  sprung  up  around  them,  which  are  daily  becoming  more  important    The- 
various  productions  of  the  surrounding  districts  are  flowing  in,  money  is  b^hming 
to  take  the  place  of  exchange  there,  and  there  are  already  indications  that  the 
time  is  not  far  distant  when  populous  centres  will  be  flourishing,  where  formerly 
brushwood  and  solitude  reigned  supreme. — Two  communications  were  received  from 
M.  A.  Thouar,  who  is  devoting  himself  to  the  discovery  of  the  remainsof  Dr.  Crevaux  and 
his  imfortunate  companions.  In  the  one,  dated  27th  June  from  Tarija,  he  announces 
the  departure  of  a  battalion,  composed  of  150  foot  and  50  horse  soldiers,  which  the 
Bolivian  Government  had  despatched  to  occupy  Teyo.     The  leadership  of  the 
scientific  part  of  the  expedition  was  offered  to  M.  Thouar,  but  he  declined,  being 
desirous  of  preserving  his  independoit  character.  War  to  the  knife  has  been  declared 
agunst  the  Tobas.    M.  Thouar  was  counting  on  accompanying  the  military  expedi- 
tion as  far  as  possible,  his  intention  in  the  interim  being  to  survey  the  course  of  the 
Pilcomayo  river  from  San  Francisco,  to  make  numerous  soundings,  and  to  pursue 
bis  researches  as  to  the  existence  of  the  river  Guayra,  which,  according  to  the  Jesuit 
fathers,  is  an  affluent  of  the  Pilcomayo,  communicating  with  the  Vermejo.     The 
correspondent  further  states  that  the  fathers  of  the  convent  at  Tarija  have  published 
an  account  of  the  exploration  of  the   Crevaux  Mission.    This  account,  which 
contains   many  interesting  details,    M..  Thouar  hopes  to  communicate    to    the 
Society  on  his  return.    The  second  letter  is  dated  1st  Axigust  from  C&iza  (North 
Grand  Chaco),  where  the  traveller  arrived  on  the  21st  of  July.  There  he  had 
reason  to  be  convinced  that  there  were  two  survivors  of  the  Crevaux  Mission,  and  that 
they  were  detained  as  prisoners  by  either  the  Tobas  or  the  Chorotis.  Various  artidea 
connected  with  the  ill-fated  expedition  have  been  obtained  by  M.  Thouar,  and  among 
others  a  sketch  of  the  course  of  the  Pilcomayo  as  far  as  Asuncion.     The  draft  is  in 
pencil,  and  annotated  by  the  late  M.  Billet,  one  of  the  companions  of  Crevaux.    On 

3  c  2 


740  PBOCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES. 

the  6th  or  10th  of  August  M.  Thouar  was  to  start  for  Teyo,  in  order  to  continue  hii 
researches ;  he  was  afterwards  going  to  traverse  the  whole  of  Northern  Chaco  along 
the  left  hank  of  the  Filcomayo,  and  he  hoped  to  return  to  Asuncion  about  the  15th 
of  September. — Another  French  traveller,  M.  Marguin  of  Buenos  Ayres,  is  pursuing 
the  same  object  as  M.  Thouar,  and  the  French  Ghai^^  d*Affaires  of  that  city  hu 
written  to  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  at  Paris  asking  for  a  grant  of  4001. 
(10,000  francs)  to  enable  M.  Marguin  to  explore  the  Pilcomayo.— M.  Alph.  Mihie- 
Edwards, -Member  of  the  Institute  and  Professor  of  the  Natural  History  Museum, 
announced  that  the  results  obtained  during  the  scientific  expedition  of  the  Taiimnan 
in  the  Atlantic  Ocean  were  very  satisfactory.  As  regards  zoology,  the  mission  had 
been  very  prolific  of  results,  and  according  to  the  report  has  made  some  **  marvel- 
lous ^  discoveries.  Nearly  two  hundred  soundings  have  been  executed  at  great  depths, 
and  throughout  the  whole  of  the  region  traversed  samples  of  the  depth  of  the  ooetn 
have  been  obtained.  These  soundings  are  the  more  interesting  as  they  rectify  in 
many  cases  those  which  are  indicated  upon  existing  maps.  As  regards  the  bathy- 
metrical  map,  published  under  German  authority  in  a  recent  atlas,  M.  Milne-Edwards 
states  that  it  is  purely  a  work  of  the  imagination ;  the  curves  therein  indicated  do 
not  correspond  in  any  way  with  the  real  relief  of  the  Atlantic.  In  one  place  where 
the  map  marks  3000  fathoms,  the  expedition  has  found  6000;  again,  the  sounding- 
lead  descended  3000  fathoms  at  points  where  the  map  showed  1000  only.  The 
bottom  of  the  Sargasso  Sea,  which  is  3280  fathoms  deep  (6000  metres),  is  entirely 
volcanic,  and  from  it  the  mission  has  made  a  collection  of  lava  and  scoriae,  some 
pieces  of  which  appear  to  be  of  comparatively  recent  origin ;  this  fact  accounts  for 
the  poverty  of  the  submarine  fauna.  The  island  of  Branco,  on  which  no  naturalist 
had  ever  landed,  was  studied  with  great  care.  The  explorers  discovered  there  great 
lizards,  which  are  not  found  in  any  other  part,  herbivorous  animals,  although  tiie 
vegetation  of  the  island  is  almost  nil.  The  approaches  of  the  island  are,  it  appean, 
most  difiBcult,  on  account  of  rocks  and  surf.  The  inmiense  submarine  volcanic  helt, 
of  the  existence  of  which  M.  Milne-Edwards  informs  us,  has  its  culminating  pomti 
at  the  Gape  Verd,  Canary,  and  Azores  islands.  This  chain,  which  runs  parallel  with 
the  Andes  range  in  America,  extends  perhaps  as  fitr  north  as  Iceland.  Whether  this 
is  so  or  not  is  a  question  which  rests  with  the  commander  of  the  expedition,  and 
which  will  be  a  matter  for  future  study. — ^The  French  Consul  at  Melbourne  in- 
formed the  Society  by  letter  of  the  initiative  taken  by  two  Australian  newspapers, 
the  Age  and  the  Argus,  of  that  city,  with  a  view  of  promoting  the  scheme  for  the 
annexation  of  New  Guinea,  or  at  least  of  all  that  portion  not  at  present  occupied  by 
the  Dutch,  which  has  been  put  forward  by  the  colony  of  Queensland,  but  not,  or  at 
least  not  at  present,  ratified  by  the  English  Government.  The  first-named  of  these 
newspapers  has  charged  M.  G.  E.  Morrison  with  a  mission  of  exploration  in  the 
island  of  New  Guinea,  which  is  still  so  little  known.  This  gentleman  has  already 
accomplished  a  journey  on  foot  of  nearly  700  leagues  across  the  Australian  continent 
from  the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria  to  Melbourne.  Not  to  be  behind  its  contemporary,  the 
Argtu,  which  is  the  most  infiuential  paper  in  the  whole  of  Australia,  has  in  its  turn 
commissioned  Lieut  Armit,  late  captain  of  the  Queensland  Native  Police,  a  learned 
botanist  and  a  man  of  profound  knowledge  of  the  Polynesian  races,  to  make  a 
thorough  and  exhaustive  exploration  of  New  Guinea,  of  which  he  will  be  expected 
to  give  a  complete  description,  including  the  fauna,  fiora,  and  mineral  and  other  re- 
ecurces  of  the  island,  &c. — The  Governor  of  Cochin  China  transmitted  to  the  Society 
a  letter  from  M.  E.  Aymonier,  Governor  of  Cambodia,  who  is  engaged  upon  a 
scientific  mission.  In  this  communication  the  latter  announces  his  arrival  in  May 
last  at  Erachgb,  which  is  situated  in  Cambodian  territory,  and  below  the  last  rapids 
of  the  Mekong  or  Great  River.    Having  completed  an  exploration  of  the  two  pro- 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  FOREIGN  SOCIETIES.  741 

vinces  of  ThbaDg-Kermum  and  Ba«Pbnom,  it  was  bis  intention  to  visit  Gbaudoc 
early  in  June,  where  he  reckoned  to  spend  several  weeks  in  classifying  the  epi- 
graphical  collections  which  he  bad  made.     On  bis  return  to  Saigon  in  July  be 
intended  to  proceed  to  the  north  of  the  province  of  Bin-tbuan  at  the  extreme  end 
of  the  Bay  of  Padaran,  in  order  to  gain  there  accurate  information  relative  to  the 
state  of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Ciampa. — ^M.  Marin  Darbel,  naval  lieutenant  on 
board  the  D'Estriea,  forwarded  an  account  of  the  visit  made  to  the  island  of  Vanikoro 
by.  the  French  despatch-boat  Le  Bruat  (Captain  Benier) ;  the  account  is  printed  in 
the  Monitor  of  New  Caledonia,    Since  the.  publication  of  this  report  (3rd  August, 
1883),  the  island  of  Vanikoro  has  been  again  visited  by  Le  Bruat,  and  M.  Bonier 
had  the  good  fortune  to  secure  from  the  spot,  where  one  of  the  ships  of  the  lUustrions 
I^a  P^rouse  was  wrecked,  three  great  anchors,  two  cast-iron  guns,  a  portion  of  a 
third  gun,  three  pump-bodies,  and  a  bronze  rake.  These  debris  were  found  imbedded 
imder  masses  of  ooral. — ^Announcement  was  made  of  the  return  to  France  of  M.  Cb. 
Huber,  who  has  been  to  Palmyra  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  impressions  of  certidn 
inscriptions,  of  which  one  of  the  Sections  of  the  Institute,  viz.  the  Academy  of  In- 
scriptions and  Literature,  desired  to  have  copies.    The  French  consul  at  Damascus, 
M.  P.  Gilbert,  who  is  a  member  of  the  Society,  interceded  to  obtain  for  M.  Huber  the 
necessary  authority. — With  regard  to  the  question  of  a  Universal  Meridian,  M.  Gustave 
d'Eichtbal  writes  that  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  Greenwich  meridian  adopted  by 
the  G^odesical  Congress  at  Rome  has  no  relation  to  the  ancient  division  of  the  globe 
into  eastern  and  western  hemispheres,  a  division  founded  alike  on  the  history  of 
humanity  and  even  on  the  conformation  of  the  terrestrial  surface,  which  has  influenced 
historical  development  so  strongly.  The  line  of  demarcation  between  the  east  and  west, 
although  vague  and  xmsettled,  having  always  been  considered  as  passing  somewhere 
near  the  centre  of  the  Mediterranean,  M.  d'Eichtbal  asks  that,  if  it  should  be  found 
impossible  to  adopt  Sicily  or  Lower  Italy  as  the  place  through  which  to  pass  the 
meridian,  it  should  be  a  point  the  distance  of  which  from  the  Greenwich  meridian 
should  be  a  whole  number.    Mr.  Parker  Snow  returns  to  his  project  for  the  establish- 
ment of  the  first  meridian  at  St.  Paul's  Rocks  in  the*  Atlantic,  as  he  does  not 
believe  that  England  will  permanently  maintun  the  1st  meridian  of  Greenwiob. — 
In  another  communication,  dated  from  Saigon  and  addressed  direct  to  the  Society, 
Captain  Aymonier  gives  an  account  of  bis  recent  excursion  to  Cambodia,  which  lasted 
seven  months,  viz.  from  December  1882  to  June  1883.    He  has  collected  together 
nearly  two  hundred  inscriptions,  which  he  has  stamped,  and  these,  with  those  which 
he  had  previously  got  together,  will  throw  an  important  light  on  the  past  history  of 
Cambodia,  although  those  he  has  recently  obtained  are  especially  of  a  too  exclusively 
religious  character.    On  the  mountain  of  Koulen,  a  solid  mass  of  sandstone,  from 
050  to  1000  feet  high  and  from  five  to  six  miles  broad,  the  traveller  discovered 
several  inscriptions,  presenting  for  the  first  time  this  peculiarity,  of  being  engraved  in 
the  rock  itself. — In  conclusion,  a  communication  was  made  by  M.  Charles  Rabot 
upon  his  recent  journey  in  Lapland,  as  well  as  upon  the  Nordenskiold  Expedition 
to  Greenland. 


(    742    ) 


NEW  BOOKS. 
(By  E.  C.  Rye,  Librarian  b.g.8.) 

EUBOPK 

Aokermann  [Dr.]  Carl.  — Beitrage  zur  physischen  GeograpMe  der  Osteee. 
Hamburg  (Otto  Meissner):  1883,  aqn.  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  399,  map  and  tables. 
(DvJau :  price  10s.) 

This  monographic  treatise,  which  Dr.  Ackermann  modestly  calls  "con- 
tribntions"  on  the  physical  geography,  of  the  Baltic,  is  divided  into  four 
sections :— ^1)  Morphological,  describing  the  limits  of  that  sea,  its  entrance- 
depthsi  and  its  western  and  eastern  portions  bathymetrically  treated ;  (2)  Geo- 
logical, subdivided  under  the  eflFects  of  water  and  of  secular  elevations  and 
depressions ;  (3)  Physical,  under  the  heads  of  conditions  of  sea  and  air  currents 
and  their  respective  effects,  and  of  temperature ;  (4)  Biological,  discussing  the 
faima  and  flora,  and  also  various  organisms  influenced  by  the  Baltic,  though 
not  living  within  its  proper  boundaries. 

The  tables  are  (1)  bathymetrical,  (2-4)  showing  isotherms  for  the  year, 
winter  and  summer,  &c.,  and  (5)  the  year's  deep-water  temperatures.  The  map 
(scale  1 : 3,000,000)  shows  depths  by  colour  for  the  whole  mtic,  with  various 
insets  on  smaller  and  larger  scales. 
f  ■    . 

ASIA, 

[Cauoasns.] — Notes  on  the  Caucasus.  By  Wanderer.  London  (Blacmillan) : 
1883,  8vo.,  pp.  280  [no  index].    Price  95. 

This  anonymous  sketch,  apparently  written  by  a  former  resident  in  Tiflis, 
is  chiefly  devoted  to  a  description  of  military  events  in  tbe  Caucasus  during  the 
last  Russo-Turkish  war  and  of  the  corruption  and  license  both  of  the  present 
rulers  and  the  majority  of  the  native  races.  There  are,  however,  various  ob- 
servations of  interest  oh  topography,  climate,  products,  fauna  (as  regard! 
game),  &c 

Conder,  ClaTlde  Eeignier* — Heth  and  Moab.  Explorations  in  Syria  in  1881  and 
1882.  Published  for  the  Committee  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund.  London 
(Richard  Bentley  &  Son):  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  436,  map  and  illustrations. 
Price  14a. 

This  volume  coutains  the  more  popular  results  of  Captain  Gonder*s  short 
campaign  for  the  survey  of  Palestine  east  of  the  Jordan,  which  was  first  inter- 
rupted by  fighting  among  the  Druses  and  subsequently  stopped  by  order  of 
Turkish  oflBcials.  While  waiting  for  the'  arrival  of  his  instruments  and  sur- 
veyors. Captain  Conder  utilised  the  time  by  making  a  journey  north  from 
Beyrut  in  search  of  the  long-lost  Kadesh,  the  city  of  the  Hittites.  This  is 
identified  (after  Thomson)  as  Eades,  a  name  found  to  be  well  known  as 
applying  to  ruins  on  the  south  slope  of  Tell  Neby  Mendeh  (or  Mendau),  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Orontes,  near  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Koteineh.  The 
special  object  of  the  expedition  was  commenced  by  way  of  Moab,  and  some 
500  miles  of  the  southern  part,  from  the  north-eastern  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea 
to  Rabbath-Ammon,  were  actually  surveyed  while  the  author  was  being  forced 
out  of  the  country. 

In  the  appendix  the  author  gives  (among  other  things)  a  Scripture  Gazetteer 
of  Eastern  Palestine  (Bashan,  Gilead,  and  Moab),  containing  97  names,  of 
which  30  are  now  for  the  first  time  identified;  also  observations  on  the 
proiwsed  Jordan  Valley  Canal,  and  notes  on  some  explorations  west  of  Jordan. 

The  map  is  only  a  sketch  of  routes. 


NEW  BOOKS.  743 

[Eastwiok,  E.  B.]— Handbook  of  the  Panjab,  Western  Rajputdnd,  Kashmir,  and 
Upper  Sindh.  London  (John  Murray)  :  1883,  post  8vo.,  pp.  xii,  and  334,  maps 
and  map  in  cover.    Price  IBs. 

Completes  the^^  Handbook  of  India,  of  which  the  preceding  volumes  on 

Madras,  Bombay,  and  Bengal  are  also  by  the  late  Mr.  Eastwick.    The  present 

]>art  is  to  some  extent  anticipated  by  Ross*s  *  Land  of  the  Five  Rivers  and 

Sindh,'  noticed  in  the  present  volume  of  '  Proceedings,'  p.  304,  but  is  more 

minute  in  detail  and  more  thorough  in  treatment,  comprising  much  archteo- 

logical  and  historical  matter.  The  map  is  of  Sindh  (scale  55  miles  to  the  inch) ; 

the  maps  in  cover,  on  the  same  scale,  are  of  the  Panjdb,  Kashmir,  and|part8  of 

Afghdnist^n  and  Biluchistdn,  and  of  the  North- West  Provinces,  Oudh,Jand 

Kdjpdtand. 

Sachau  [Dr.]  Edward. — Reise  in  Syrien  und  Mesopotamien.    Leipzig  (Brock- 

haus) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  x.  and  478,  maps,  photographs,  and  illustrations.  (Dtdau : 

price  20«.) 

Dr.  Sachau's  travels  in  Syria  and  Mesopotamia  commenced  in  the  autumn 
of  1879,  and  were  continued  in  1880,  his  object  (which  received  official  sanction 
and  support)  being  to  collect  and  copy  archasological  matter,  such  as  manu- 
scripts, inscriptions,  &c.  Starting  from  Damascus,  after  visiting  Palmyra,  he 
went  to  Aleppo,  thence  striking  south-east  by  the  Jebel-el-Hass  to  Zebed  and 
again  turning  north  to  Membidj  (Bambyce  Hierapolis),  from  which  point 
he  went  east  to  the  Euphrates,  following  the  river  northwards  for  a  short 
distance  and  ascending  the  S&djQr  to  Zembflr  on  the  Aleppo  road.  Here  he 
again  struck  east  to  Jer&bis  on  the  western  Euphrates  Imnk  (opposite  the 
ancient  Europus),  and  went  south  to  Sresat,  then  ascending  the  river  to 
Biredjik,  and  after  reaching  Urfa  (Edessa),  working  southwards  to  Ragga 
(Nicephorium)  vi&  Harr&n  (Carrhae).  From  Ragga  he  followed  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Euphrates  southwards  to  Ed-Der,  where  he  crossed  to  the  western 
bank,  visiting  TabUs  (Dabusa)  and  then  continuing  southwards  to  Mejddib. 
Here  he  again  crossed  the  river  to  Circesium,  striking  north-east  by  the 
Kh&bClr  river  (the  Ghaboras)  and  traversing  the  Shemmar  country  to  the 
Sindjdr,  Tdg,  and  Jerebe  mountains  which  run  nearly  east  and  west  across 
the  desert.  From  there  he  continued  east  to  Tel  'Afar  and  Mdsul,  and  crossing 
the  Tigris,  travelled  along  the  foot  of  the  ranges  on  its  eastern  bank  vi&  Tel- 
KSpe,  Alkush,  and  Z^kho  to  Jeziret-ibn  'Omar,  where  he  recrossed  and  turned 
again  westward,  skirting  the  north  of  the  desert  to  Nsebin  (Nisibis),  D&r&,  and 
the  ancient  Armenian  capital  of  Tigranoccrta  placed  at  Tel-Ermen,  a  little 
south-west  of  Mardin.  From  Mardin  he  made  an  excursion  to  the  east  to 
Midij&d  in  Et-T6r,  returning  by  a  northern  route  along  the  valley  of  Kefr  J6z, 
and  then  after  visiting  Diarbekr,  striking  homewards  by  SUwerek  (north  of 
Urfa)  to  Biredjik,  again  crossing  the  Euphrates,  and  ultimately  arriving  at 
Alexandretta  by  Aleppo  and  Antioch. 

Though  primarily  of  historical  and  archaeological  interest.  Dr.  Sachau's 
travels,  especially  in  Northern  Mesopotamia,  have  resulted  in  considerable 
additions  to  topographical  knowledge  of  the  district,  as  well  as  details  on  the 
relations,  habits,  &c.,  of  the  tribes  of  the  desert.  This  work  contains  many  copies 
of  ancient  inscriptions,  &c.,  and  is  illustrated  by  small  sketch  maps,  plans,  &c., 
and  twenty-two  excellent  phot(^raphs,  some  (e.  g.  the  Acropolis  of  Apamea  on 
the  Orontes,  selected  as  a  frontispiece)  of  considerable  pictorial  effect. 

There  are  also  two  lai^e  maps  of  the  author's  routes  by  Kiepert,  on  the  scale 
of  1 :  750,000,  one  of  Syria  (with  insets  of  the  portions  of  the  route  from 
Apamea  and  of  the  Sadjik  and  northern  Euphrates  on  the  scale  of  1 :  375,000), 
the  other  of  Mesopotamia  (with  insets  of  the  neighbourhood  of  Tigranocerta  on 
the  larger  scale).  Ruins,  topographical  features,  religious  localities,  and  points  of 
ethnographical  value  are  indicated  on  these  maps,  with  ancient  and  modern 
names  where  possible. 

Walker,  [Lieut-General]  J.  T.  —  Account  of  the  Operations  of  the  Great 
Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India.  Volume  IX. — Electro-Telegraphic  Longitude 
Operations  executed  during  the  years  1875-77  and  1880-81,  by  Lieut-Colonel 


744  NEW  BOOKS. 

W.  M.  Campbell,  r.e.,  and  Major  W.  J.  Heaviside,  b.e.  Prepared  under  the 
directions  of  Lieut.-General  J.  T.  Walker,  c.b.,  b.e.,  f.b.s.,  &c.,  Surveyor-General  of 
India,  and  Superintendent  of  the  Trigonometrical  Survey.  Debra  Dun  (B.  V. 
Hughes,  Office  of  the  Trigonometrical  Branch,  Survey  of  India):  1883,  4to^ 
pp.  xxiii.,  60,  262,  (20),  and  (117),  plates  i.-vi.  and  Index  Chart 

This  volume  contains  the  history  and  description  of  the  electro-telegraphic 
operations  for  the  determination  of  differential  longitudes  which  have  becii 
completed  by  the  Survey  to  the  end  of  1881  in  various  parts  of  India,  and  on 
.  the  lines  of  submarine  cable  connecting  India  telegraphically  with  Europe  rit 
Aden  and  Suez.  Operating  as  the  survey  does,  within  parallels  of  latitude 
situated  much  nearer  the  equator  than  those  within  which  any  other  geodetic 
work  of  importance  has  hitherto  been  undertaken,  it  has  supplied  data  of  very 
gjreat  scientific  value,  apart  from  its  special  object,  in  the  form  of  determina- 
tions of  lengths  and  amplitudes  of  meridional  arcs,  pendulum  operations  for 
determining  the  variations  of  force  of  gravity  at  stations  in  widely  different 
positions  on  mountains,  table-lands,  interior  and  coast  lines,  and  now  by  the 
aid  of  electric  tel^apby  in  measuring  differential  longitudes  co-ordinating 
with  latitude  measurements.  In  the  preliminary  test  experiments  for  these 
latter  operations,  large  errors  were  found,  causing  a  feeling  of  imcertainty  as  to 
the  ultimate  value  of  the  work;  but  further  experience  showed  that  the 
aggregate  errors  in  telegraphic  signaling  were  immaterial  as  compared  with 
erroneous  local  time  observations  capable  of  rectification.  The  present  deter- 
minations of  the  differences  in  longitude  between  Bombay,  Aden,  and  So^ 
combine  with  those  of  the  differences  between  Suez,  Mokattam,  and  Greenwich 
derived  from  the  1874  Transit  of  Venus  observations,  to  give  the  following 
results : — 

Longitudes  East  op  Botal  Obsebvatory,  Greekwich. 

Mokattam 2    5    6-21    =  31  16  33-60 

Suez     2  10  13-17    =  32  33  17-65 

Aden 2  59  55-832  =  44  58  57-48 

Bombay       4  51  15805  =  72  48  57*08 

^'li^hPSsranrr* !°}  s » '0-^' = «• » «'•••'» 

One  of  the  results  of  these  operations  is  the  acquitiition  of  the  value  of 
constant  correction  to  reduce  all  the  longitudes  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Sur- 
vey to  Greenwich,  viz.,  -  2'  31" '48.  The  value  actually  employed  pending  the 
completion  of  the  longitudinal  arcs  for  all  India  is  -  2'  30".  Another  and  more 
fundamental  addition  to  geodetic  knowledge  is  the  conviction  that  the  values  of 
the  elements  of  the  earth's  figure  hitherto  employed  as  constants,  and  ivhich 
were  calculated  by  Colonel  Everest,  will  probably  have  to  give  place  eventually 
to  values  closely  approximating  to  those  subsequently  deduced  by  Colouel 
Clarke;  for  on  substituting  the  latter,  the  geodetic  values  of  the  arcs  are 
brought  into  much  closer  accordance  with  the  electro-telegraphic  values.  The 
number  of  instances  in  which  the  geodetic  value  of  a  longitudinal  arc  is  in 
excess  of  the  electro-telegraphic  value  greatly  preponderates  over  those  in  which 
the  geodetic  value  is  in  defect.  The  average  excess  is  about  10"  with  Colontl 
Everest's  constants,  and  G"  with  Colonel  Clarke's.  This  is  believed  to  be  due 
to  deflections  of  the  plumb-line  towards  the  sea  and  away  from  the  continent 
on  the  coasts,  and  is  in  accordance  with  the  results  of  the  pendulum  observations 
by  Captain  Bosevi,  which  indicate  a  probably  greater  density  in  the  strata  of 
the  earth's  crust  under  oceans  than  those  under  continents. 

AFRICA. 
Doelter,  CDr.]  Gomelis. — t)ber  die  Capverden  nach  dem  Rio  Grande  nnd  Fntah- 
Djallon.     Reiseskizzen  aus  Nord-West  Afrika.    Leipzig  (Paul  Frohberg):  1884 
[1883],  4to.,  pp.  viii.  and  263  [no  index],  map  and  illustrations.    ( WiUianu  <t 
Norgate :  price  13».) 

Dr.  Doelter,  Professor  at  the  Royal  University  of  Gratz,  went  to  the  Cape 
Verde  islands  in  1880,  thence  crossing  to  Senegambia.    Bolama,  Bissao,  Buba 


NEW  BOOKS.  746 

on  the  Hio  Grande,  and  Geba  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  are  the  chief  places 
he  yisited,  his  return  to  Europe  being  made  in  1881.  He  discusses  in  a  general 
way  colonial  interests,  the  origin,  distribution,  languages,  religions,  habits  and 
customs,  industries,  &c.,  of  the  Fulahs,  Mandeugas,  and  Pepels,  and  the 
physical  ge(^raphy  of  South  Senegambia,  especially  as  to  the  highlands  of  Futa 
Jallon,  the  littl&>known  river-systems  of  the  Gomba  and  Rio  Grande,  the  coast 
formation,  geology  and  mineral  products,  fauna,  flora,  diseases,  climate,  &c 

The  map  (scale  1 : 1,500,000)  is  of  the  country  from  the  mouth  of  the  Casa- 
raanza  to  a  little  south  of  the  Kio  Grande,  including  the  Bissagos  group,  and 
Bolama,  with  an  inset  of  Buba  (1 :  400,000). 

Hacquarie,  J.  L> — ^Voyage  k  Madagascar.  Paris  (Dentu) :  1884  [1883],  12mo., 
pp.  435,  illustrations.     {Dulau :  price  3«.  6d.) 

The  writer  gives  a  general  description  of  Madagascar  and  its  inhabitants, 
especially  in  connection  with  French  colonial  interests,  basing  his  narrative 
upon  a  visit  to  the  island  at  the  end  of  1878  by  MM.  Trottet  and  Kozan.  The 
illustrations  are  from  sketches  by  M.  Richard,  Secretary  of  the  French  Mission 
on  the  coronation  of  Radama  II. 

Peace,  Walter.— Our  Colony  of  NataU  Published  by  permission  of  the  Natal 
Government.  London  (Stanford) :  [1883],  8vo.,  pp.  174,  map  in  cover.  Price  3«.  6d. 

A  descriptive  account,  compiled  from  various  trustworthy  sources,  and 
specially  intended  for  emigrational  purposes.  The  map  (scale  9  miles  to  the 
inch)  is  compiled  in  the  office  of  the  Surveyor-General  (P.  C.  Sutherland,  Esq.) 
and  furnished  by  him. 

AMERICA. 

Im  Thnm,  Everard  F. — Among  the  Indians  of  Guiana :  being  sketches,  chiefly 
anthropologic,  from  the  interior  of  British  Guiana.  London  (Kegan  Paul,  Trench, 
and  Co.) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  xvi.,  445,  map  and  illustrations.     Price  18<. 

The  varied  subjects  of  this  book,  which  includes  dififerent  aspects  of  the 
geography,  anthropology,  fauna,  and  flora  of  those  parts  of  the  colony  visited 
by  Mr.  im  Thurn,  and  which  happily  combines  scientific  accuracy  with 
pictnresaue  and  entertaining  descriptions,  cannot  fail  to  insure  for  it  a  place 
among  the  standard  favourite  works  on  tropical  countries. 

The  first  two  chapters,  "A  journey  into  the  interior,"  are  avowedly  re- 
written from  the  author's  paper  published  in  our  *  Proceedings '  (1880,  p.  465), 
the  map  accompanying  which  is  also  practically  reproduced.  To  these  is 
lidded  an  account  of  the  Kaieteur  Fall  and  Roraima,  the  former  from  two  visits 
in  the  dry  and  wet  seasons.  In  the  dry  season,  the  first  view  of  the  Kaieteur 
is  described  as  most  disappointing  ;  the  ravine  of  the  Potaro  then  ends  in  a  bare 
cliflf  &ce,  with  no  trace  of  water,  and  it  is  not  until  the  spectator  reaches  the 
river-edge  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  fall,  and  just  at  the  mouth  of  the 
amphitheatre  of  800  feet  high  walls,  that  the  cataract,  less  than  half  its  usual 
width,  and  confined  to  the  left-hand  quarter  of  the  amphitheatre^  is  seen. 

Mr.  im  Thum's  personal  experiences  are  interwoven  in  the  remainder  of  the 
book  with  his  descriptions  of  the  aspects  of  plant-  and  animal-life,  and  of  Indian 
iribes.  In  discussing  the  latter,  separate  chapters  are  given  on  the  family-  and 
marriage-systems,  physical  appearance  and  dress,  houses  and  settlements,  social- 
life,  hunting  and  fishing,  agriculture,  food,  manufactures,  feasts,  opposed  local 
systems  of  imaginary  evil  and  good  influences,  known  as  "Kenaima*  and 
"Peaiman,"  religion,  folk-lore,  and  antiquities.  Some  parts  of  these  have 
already  appeared  in  the  *  Journal  of  the  Anthropological  Institute'  and 
*  Gardeners'  Chronicle,'  and  they  have  also  been  partially  discussed  in  the 
magazine  called  *  Timehri  *Qk  name  given  as  "  Temehri "  in  this  volume)  which 
has  been  before  noticed.  The  rock  engravings  signified  by  that  word  are  of 
course  treated  at  some  length,  with  illustrations.  Some  of  these  are  from 
original  sketches,  others  from  photographs ;  of  the  latter,  a  view  on  the  Potaro 
opposite  p.  67  calls  for  special  praise. 


746  N£W  BOOKS. 

Sdhumaoher,  Hermann  A. — SUdamerikaniscbe  Studien.  Drei  Lebens-  und  Coltur* 
Bilder.  Mdtis,  Cdldns,  Codazzi.  1760-1860.  Berlin  (Mittler) :  1884  [1883], 
8vo.,  pp.  xiii.  and  559.    (Dulau :  price  12«.) 

Biographies,  with  accounts  of  the  travels  and  scientific  work  of  Jos^  Mdtig, 
Francisco  Cildas,  and  Agostino  Codazzi,  chiefly  in  Colombia  and  VeoezneU. 
The  notes  at  the  end  contun  mnch  information  on  geographers,  traveUen, 
and  geographical  subjects  in  South  America. 

AUSTRALASIA. 

Coote,  Walter.— The  Western  Pacific.  Being  a  description  of  the  groups  of 
islands  to  the  north  and  east  of  the  Australian  continent.  London  (Sampson 
Low  &  Co.) :  1883, 12mo.,  pp.  xvi.  and  184,  map  and  illustrations.    Price  2».  6d. 

Mainly  reprinted  from  the  author's  *  Wanderings  South  and  East '  (R.G.S. 
*  Proceedings,  1882,  p.  248),  with  the  addition  of  a  few  pages  on  the  subject  of 
colonial  extension  in  the  Pacific.  Norfolk  Island,  Fiji  (Ovalau,  Mbau,  and  the 
Eewa  district),  the  New  Hebrides,  Banks,  Torres,  Santa  Cruz,  Solomon,  and 
Loyalty  Islands,  and  New  Caledonia  are  discussed,  with  a  general  concluding 
chapter  on  labour  and  trade  in  the  Western  Pacific.  Speaking  of  New  Guinea 
in  his  introduction,  the  author  says :  "  If  I  except  Mr.  Chester,  no  one  has  to 
any  appreciable  extent  explored  the  higher  plateaus  and  ranges  of  New  Guinea." 
It  is  therefore  to  be  assumed  that  the  well-known  magistrate  of  that  name  at 
Thursday  Island  has  made  explorations  in  the  interior  of  New  Guinea  of  which 
the  results  are  not  as  yet  made  public. 

Valine,  Leon. — Essai  d'une  Bibliographie  de  la  Nouvelle-Cal61onie  et  dependences. 
Paris  (Klincksieck) :  1883, 12mo.,  pp.  68.    (Bulau :  price  28.) 

A  list  of  books,  articles,  papers,  &c.,  bearing  on  New  Caledonia,  arranged 
alphaboticaUy,  and  also  indexed  under  subjects. 

ARCTIC. 

The  "  Corwin." — Cruise  of  the  Revenue-steamer  Corwin  in  Alaska  and  the  N.W. 

Arctic  Ocean  in  1881.     Notes  and  Memoranda :  Medical  and  Anthropological ; 

Botanical;  OmithologicaL    Washington  (Government  Printing  Office):  1883, 

4to.,  pp.  120,  plates  (coloured  and  plain). 

This  valuable  contribution  to  scientific  Arctic  literature  is  introduced  by  a 
printed  letter  from  Mr.  H.  F.  French,  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  (Treasury 
Department,  Document  No.  429),  who  makes  the  return  to  the  (J.S.  House  of 
Representatives.  It  contains :  (1)  Medical  and  Anthropological  Notes  on 
Alaska,  by  Irving  C.  Rosse,  m.d.,  with  illustrations  of  highly  magnified  hair 
sections,  and  human  crania;  (2)  Botanical  notes  on  Alaska,  by  John  Muir, 
covering  Unalaska,  St.  Lawrence  Island,  St.  Michael's,  Golovin  bay,  Eotzebae 
Sound,  Capes  Thompson,  Prince  of  Wales,  and  Lisboume,  Cape  Wankerem  in 
Siberia,  Plover  bay.  Herald  Island,  and  Wrangell  Island.  The  latter  is  of  course 
of  the  greatest  interest  •,  the  stay  of  the  ITiamas  Corwin  was  too  short  for  a  full 
collection,*  but  twenty-seven  phanerogamous  plants  were  found.  (3)  Birds  of 
Bering  Sea  and  the  Arctic  Ocean,  by  E.  W.  Nelson,  illustrated  by  good 
coloured  figures,  and  followed  by  a  list  of  fishes  known  to  occur  in  the  Arctic 
Ocean  north  of  Bering  Strait,  by  Tarleton  H.  Bean,  with  two  plates. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  this  revenue  steamer,  commanded  by  Captaio 
C.  L.  Hooper,  was  (after  her  fruitless  attempt  in  1880)  sent  in  May  1881  with 
instructions  to  search  for  the  Jeannette  and  two  missing  whalers.  During  this 
expedition  she  reached  Wrangell  Land,  which  was  in  the  same  year  proved 
by  Captain  Berry  of  the  Rodgers  to  be  an  island.  An  account  of  her  voyage 
is  given  in  our  *  Proceedings '  for  1881,  p.  731,  but  more  precise  details  on  some 
points  are  incidentally  afforded  by  the  present  report  (which,  however,  contains 
no  narrative).  Describing  the  landing  on  Wrangell  Island,  Mr.  Muir  says  that 
the  rock  formation  where  they  landed  and  for  some  distance  along  the  coast  to 
the  eastward  and  westward  was  a  close-grained  clay  slate,  cleaving  freely  into 


NEW  BOOKS.  747 

ti]m  flakes,  with  here  and  there  a  few  compact  metamorphic  masses  risino; 
above  the  general  surface.  Where  it  was  exposed  along  the  shore  bluffs,  aod 
kept  haxe  of  vegetation  and  soil  by  the  action  of  the  ocean,  ice,  and  heavy 
snow-drifts,  the  rock  presented  a  surface  about  as  black  as  coal,  without  even 
a  moss  or  lichen  to  enliven  its  sombre  gloom.  But  when  this  dreary  barrier  was 
passed,  the  surface  features  of  the  country  in  general  were  found  to  be  finely 
moulded  and  collocated,  smooth  valleys,  wide  as  compared  with  their  depth, 
trending  back  from  the  shore  to  a  range  of  mountains  that  appeared  blue  in  the 
distance,|and  round-topped  hills,  with  their  side  curves  finely  drawn,  touching  and 
blending  in  beautiful  groups,  while  scarcely  a  single  rock-pile  or  sheer-walled 
.  bluff  was  seen  to  break  the  general  smoothness.  The  soil  had  evidently  been 
derived  mostly  from  the  underlying  slates,  though  a  few  fragmentary  wasting 
moraines  were  observed  containing  travelled  boulders  of  quart2s  and  granite, 
doubtless  brought  from  the  mountains  of  the  interior  by  glaciers  that  had 
recently  vanished — so  recently  that  the  outlines  and  sculptured  hollows  and 
grooves  of  the  mountains  had  not  as  yet  suffered  sufficient  post-glacial  de- 
nudation to  mar  their  glacial  characters  appreciably.  The  banks  of  the  river 
at  the  mouth  of  which  the  landing  was  made  presented  a  striking  contrast  as 
to  vegetation  to  that  of  any  other  stream  seen  in  the  Arctic  regions.  The 
tundra  vegetation  was  not  wholly  absent,  but  the  mosses  and  lichens  of  which 
it  is  elsewhere  composed  were  about  as  feebly  developed  as  possible,  and  instead 
of  forming  a  continuous  covering,  occurred  in  small  separate  tufts,  leaving  the 
ground  between  them  raw  and  hare  as ,  that  of  a  newly-ploughed  field.  The 
phanerogamous  plants,  both  on  the  lowest  grounds  and  the  slopes  and  hill-top 
as  far  as  seen,  were  in  the  same  severely  repressed  condition,  and  as  sparsely 
planted  in  tufts  an  inch  or  two  in  diameter,  with  about  from  one  to  three  feet 
of  naked  soil  between  them.  Some  portions  of  the  coast,  however,  further  south 
presented  a  greenish  hue  as  seen  from  the  ship  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  10  miles, 
owing  no  doubt  to  v^etation  growing  under  less  unfavourable  conditions. 

Dr.  Rosse's  notes,  apart  from  their  professional  value,  as  regards  Arctic 
expeditions,  and  from  their  specially  anthropological  nature,  contain  various 
useful  observations  on  climate,  meteorology,  and  density  of  sea-water.  The 
winter  temperature  at  St.  Michael's  is  recorded  as  reaching  —  45°  Fahr.,  Eskimo 
dogs  and  wild  geese  being  frozen  to  death.  The  effect  of  alcohol  in  high  lati- 
tudes is  discussed  with  some  detail,  the  writer  being  obviously  of  opinion  that 
in  moderation  its  use  is  beneficiaL  His  experience  also  negatives  the  pro- 
verbial enormous  appetites  of  the  Eskimo,  who  were  found  to  be  inferior  in 
muscular  strength  to  Dr.  Rosse,  and  to  be  no  more  (indeed  possibly  less)  capable 
of  enduring  cold  than  whites. 

The  "  Jeannette."— The  Voyage  of  the  Jeannette.  The  Ship  and  Ice  Journals  of 
Geoi^e  W.  De  Long,  Lieutenant-Commander  it.s.k.,  and  Commander  of  the  Polar 
Expedition  of  1879-1881.  Edited  by  his  wife,  Emma  De  Long.  London  (Eegan 
Paul,  Trench  &  Co.) :  1883,  8vo.,  pp.  i.-xii.  and  1-440 ;  i.-x.  and  441-911,  maps, 
plates,  and  illustrations.    Price  36s. 

So  many  accounts  of  the  ill-fated  Jeannette  have  been  published,  and  noticed 
in  our  *  Proceedings,'  that  the  present  voluminous  work  calls  for  no  special 
mention,  however  full  of  interest  in  consequence  of  its  precise  and  authentic 
details  of  the  daily  occurrences  from  the  hopeful  start  to  the  melancholy  close 
of  the  expedition.  It  would  be  superfluous  in  such  a  notice  as  the  present  to 
comment  on  the  noble  endurance  both  of  mind  and  body  which  is  so  tonchingly 
shown  by  the  late  commander's  journals  now  printed  in  full. 

Commencing  with  a  biography  of  Geoj^e  Washington  De  Long  (including 
an  extract  from  his  report  when  commanding  the  U.S.  steam-launch  Little 
Juniata  during  the  Polaris  relief  search  of  1873),  the  first  volume  contains 
full  particulars  of  the  origin  and  fitting  out  of  the  expedition,  the  purchase  of 
the  vessel  so  well  known  to  English  "  Arctics  "  as  the  Pandora,  and  the  com- 
position of  her  crew  and  officers.  De  Long's  diary  commences  with  the  start 
from  San  Francisco,  and  records  the  journey  to  Unalaska,  Norton  Sound,  Bering 
Strait  (for  which  the  old  reading  of  **  Behring  "*  is  retained  throughout,  though 


748  NEW  MAPS. 

shown  to  "be  incorrect  byl  Elliot,  in  his  *  Monograph  of  the  Seal-Island*  of 
Alaska,'  noticed  in  R.G.S.  'Proceedings,'  1882,  p.  444),  Wrangel  Island,  aod 
thence  north-west  to  the  De  Long  Islaiids  (north-east  of  the  Liakhov  group), 
where  the  ship  was  crushed  on  June  12, 1881.'  It  is*  continued  during  the 
hoat  journey  to  the  Lena  delta,  the  last  entry  being  on  Octoher  30, 188  L 

The  narrative  is  completed  hy  the  accounts  of  the  adventures  of  the  men 
Xindemann  and  Noros,  who  were  sent  in  search  of  help ;  of  Mr.  Melville  and 
Lieutenant  Danenhower  with  the  whale-boat  party ;  and  of  the  searches  and 
final  official  inquiry. 

The  volumes  are  illustrated  hy  various  portraits,  plates,  wood  ei^ravings, 
vignettes,  and  diagrams,  and  the  maps  and  charts  are  as  follows :— A  chart  of 
the  track  of  the  Juniata  and  Little  Juniata  during  th^ir  Polaris  search;  a 
circumpolar  chart,  showing  highest  points  reached  by  different  navigators; 
track-chart  of  the  Jeannette  from  San  Francisco  to  sinking,  with  subsequent 
route  over  the  ice  to  the  Siberian  coast ;  a  separate  map  of  the  latter  portion ; 
a  map  of  the  Lena  delta ;  and  another,  showing  the  route  after  landing  and  the 
routes  of  the  search  parties. 

The  scientific  results  of  the  expedition  are  only  partially  recorded  in  the 
text  of  the  work  and  the  Appendix  (which  includes  papers  by  De  Fonvieille 
on  Arctic  ballooning,  by  Dr.  Ambler  on  ice  formed  by  sea- water,  and  on  snow- 
crystals,  &c.,  and  by  Mr.  Melville  on  construction  and  fitting  of  a  vessel  for 
Arctic  exploration,  with  illustrations ;  also  some  tide  measurements  at  Bennett 
Island) ;  hut  it  is  stated  that  the  U.S.  Government  will  hereafter  issue  the 
notes  of  the  naturalist,  the  meteorological  observations,  and  the  electrical  and 
auroral  observations  of  Lieutenant  Chipp. 


NEW  MAPS. 

(By  J.  Coles,  Map  Curator  n,QjB,) 

WORLD. 
Schnmann,  Dr.  Carl. — Yerhreitnng  der  Lauraceen.  Equatorial  scale  1 :  135,000,000 
or  30f  degrees  to  an  inch.    Petermann's  *  Geographische  Mittheilungen,'  Eij^uir 
zungsheft  No.  73.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotba.    {Dulau.) 

EUROPE. 

Alpen,  Wandkarte  der ,  von  E.  Leeder.    Scale  1 :  750,000  or  10*3  geographical 

miles  to  an  inch.    Essen,  G.  D.  Baedeker.    6  sheets.    Price  10».    (^Dulau.) 

OeBterreich-Ungam,   Generalkarte  von .      Scale  1:500,000  or   6*8  geo- 
graphical miles  to  an  inch.    Teschen,  Prochaska.    Price  2«.    (ZHttott.) 

Oesterreichscli-TJiigarisclLeii  Monarchie,  Specialkarte  der .  Scale  1 :  75,000 

or  1  geographical  mile  to  an  inch.  K.  k.  militar-geografisches  Institut,  Wien, 
1883.  Sheets:— Zone  15,  Col.  XV.  Oedenburg.  Zone  15,  Col.  XVIL  Baab. 
Zone  16,  Col.  XV.  Guns.  Zone  16,  Col.  XVII.  Pipa.  Zone  17,  CoL  XV. 
Steinamanger  und  Kormend.  Zone  17,  Col.  XVL  Hecyes-kis-Somlyo.  Zone  18, 
Col.  XV.  Csdkdny  und  Zala-Lovii.  Zone  18,  Col.  XVI.  Siimeg  und  Zala-Eger- 
szeg.  Zone  19,  Col.  XV.  Als6-Lendva  und  Lenti.  Zone  21,  CoL  XVIL  Nacy- 
Atad  und  Szigetvdr.  Zone  23,  Col.  XVIL  Slatina  und  VoCin.  Zone  23,  Col. 
XXIII.  Szerb-Jttebe.  Zone  24,  Col.  XII.  Altenmarkt  und  Ogulm.  Zone  24,  Col- 
XIII.  Karlstadt  und  VojniS.  Zone  24,  CoL  XVIL  Po2ega  und  Neu-GradiSka. 
Zone  24,  Col.  XVIII.  NaSice  und  Kutjeva  Zone  25,  Col.  XL  Veglia  und  NovL 
Zone  25,  Col.  XIII.  Sluin.  Zone  26,  Col.  XVI.  Alt-GradiSka  und  Orahova. 
Zone  26,  Col.  XL  Cherso  und  Arbe.  Zone  26,  CoL  XII.  Zengg  und  Otocac  Zone 
26,  Col.  XIII.  PUtvice.    Price  Is.  4/i.  each  sheet.    (Dulau.) 


MEW  HAPS.  749 

ORDNANCE  SUBVEY  MAPS, 
l-inoh— General  Map* : — 

Scotland  :  Sheet  116  (Hill-shaded).    Price  Is.  9rf. 

6-inch — County  Maps : — 

England  :  Berks :  Sheet  8  combined  with  44  Oxford ;  sheet  16  combined  with 
49  Oxford;  sheet  22  combined  with  52  Oxford;  sheet  38;  2s.  6d.  each. 
Derby :  Quarter  sheet  17  S.W. ;  Is.  Oxford :  Sheet  44  combined  with 
8  Berks ;  sheet  49  combined  with  16  Berks ;  sheet  52  combined  with  22 
Berks  ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  Wilts :  Sheet  48  filled  in  with  14  Hants ;  sheet  67 
filled  in  with  38  Hants ;  2s.  Gd.  each.  Shropshire :  Quarter  sheets  40 
S.E. ;  50  N.E. ;  51  S.W. ;  51  S.E. ;  54  S.E.  filled  in  with  Montgomery  38 
S.E.;  55  N.W.;  55  S.W. ;  56  N.E. ;  56  S.W.;  57  S.W. ;  67  S.E.;  58 
N.W.;  58  N.E.;  58  S.W.;  58  S.E.;  59  N.W.;  59  S.W.;  59  S.E. ;  62 
N.W. ;  64  S.  W. ;  65  N.E. ;  66  N.E. ;  66  S.W. ;  80  S.W. ;  81  N.W. ;  Is.  each. 

25-inch— Parish  Maps  :— 

England  :  Bedford :  Aspley  Guise,  7  sheets  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Flitton,  7  and  Ar. 
Bk. ;  Marston  Moretaine  14;  Wootton  11.  Derby:  Mackworth,  Ar.  Bk. ; 
Mickleover  13,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Sandiacre  3,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Sawley  9,  and  Ar. 
Bk.;  Spondon  10,  and  Ar.  Bk.;  Stenton  by  Dale  3,  and  Ar.  Bk.; 
Olonoester :  Dnrsley  7,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Newington  Bagpath  11,  and  Ar.  Bk. ; 
North  Nibley  and  Do.  (Det.,  Nos.  4  to  9)  9,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Saul  and  Do. 
(Det,  Nos.  1  to  14)  3,  and  Ar.  Bk. ;  Stapleton  9,  and  Ar.  Bk.  Monmouth : 
Grosmont  18 ;  Llantilio  Crossenny  16.  Norfolk :  Morley  St.  Botolph,  Ar. 
Bk.  Hottingham:  Arnold,  Ar.  Bk.  Shropshire :  Harley  and  Do.  (Det.) 
Ar.  Bk. ;  Linley  4 ;  Ratlinghopc  16  ;  Buckley  and  Langley  5 ;  Stirchley  6  ; 
Woolstaston  4.    Suffolk :  Bendlesham  4. 

ASIA. 

Arabia  and  Persia,  Map  of  parts  of j  in  two  sheets.    Scale  1 :  2,000,000  or 

27 '7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Compiled  in  the  Office  of  the  Trigono- 
metrical Branch,  Survey  of  India,  Dehra  Dun,  at  the  request  of  Colonel  Boss, 
Political  Resident  in  the  Persian  Gulf,  from  the  twelve  sheets  of  map  of  parts  of 
Arabia  and  Persia  prepared  at  Dehra  Dda  in  January  1880,  with  additions  and 
corrections  by  Colonel  Ross ;  from  6  sheets  of  Colonel  Miles'  o«tIine  coast  supplied 
by  Colonel  Ross ;"  from  General  A.  Hontum-Schindler's  Routes  in  South-Westem 
and  Southern  Persia,  1877  to  1880 ;  trom  Lieutenant-General  J.  T.  Walker's  map 
of  Turkestan  1883 ;  firom  map  accompanying  E.  A.  Floyer's  Unexplored  Balu- 
chistan, 1882,  and  from  Captain  E.  L.  Durand's  sketch-map  accompanying  his 
Report  of  a  tour  in  Ears,  1879.  Photozincographed  at  the  Office  of  the  Trigono- 
metrical Branch,  Survey  of  India,  Dehra  Ddn,  July  1883. 

Asie,  Carte  indiquant  les  positions  relatives  des  colonies  fran^aiscs  en ,  par 

V.  A.  Malte-Brun.    (Atlas  de  la  France  illustr^e.)    Paris,  J.  Rouff.    iDulau.) 

Hontun-Schindler,  General  A. — Route  von  Zendjftn  nach  Tacht  i  Soleimftn. 
Aufgenommen  1880  von  General  A.  Houtum-Schindler.  Scale  1 :  506,880  or 
6*9  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  D.  Reimer,  Berlin,  1883.  Zcitschr.  der  Ges. 
f.  Erdk.  zu  Berlin,  Bd.  xvui.  Taf.  6.    {DvUiu.) 

•^— Route  von  Qazwtn  nach  Tabriz.    Aufgenommen  1881-82  von  General 

A.  Houtum-Schindler.  Scale  1 : 1,013,760  or  13*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
D.  Reimer,  Berlin,  1883.  Zeitschr.  der  Ges.  f.  Erdk.  zu  Berlin,  Bd.  xviii.  Taf.  7. 
{Dulau.) 

— Route  von  Tabriz  nach   S&Cldjbuiagh.    Aufgenonunen  1881-82  von 

General  A.  Houtum-Schindler.  Scale  1 :  506,880  or  6  *  9  geographical  miles  to  an 
inch.  D.  Reimer,  Berlin,  1883.  Zeitschr.  der.  Ges.  f.  Erdk.  zu  Berlin,  Bd.  xviii. 
Taf.  8.    {Bulau.) 

\ 


763  NEW  MAPS. 

Tonkin  (Tong-Kin),  Carte  du ,  dresa^  k  HaS-Phong  par  M.  Mallart-CreMb, 

Ex-capifaune  d'Infanterie  de  Marine,  Capitaine  de  Gendarmerie.  Scale  1 :  86(^)00 
or  11*6  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Paris:  Maison  Logerot,  J.  Ganltier, 
Editeur-g^ographe.    (Dulau.) 

This  map  shows  very  plainly  all  roads,  forts,  towns,  villages,  and  minkni. 
The  rapids  on  the  rivers  are  marked ;  the  lettering  is  large,  and  the  boondariei 
clearly  i^own.  An  inset  map  on  a  reduced  scale  of  Tonqoin  and  the  nei^. 
bonring  states  is  also  given. 

Tschnktschen-HalbULBel,  Ethnographische  Earte  der .    Entworfen  von  Dr. 

A.  Eranse.  Scale  1 : 7,000,000  or  97*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Dentadte 
Geographische  Blatter,  Band  vi.  Tafel  2.  Geograph.  Anst.  v.  Wagner  ft  DelMt, 
Leipzig,  1883.    (Dulau.) 

AFRICA. 

Smin-Bey,  Dr.,  Originalkarte  der  Beise  des 1  in  die  Mudirie  von  Bohl  u. 

Makraka.  Oktober  und  November  1882.  Eonstniiert  u.  mlt  Dr.  W.  Jnnken 
Bonten-Aufnahmen  kombiniert  von  Brano  Hassenstein.  Scale  1  :  500,000  or 
6*8  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  '  Geographische  MittheUnngen,* 
Jahrgang  1883,  Tafel  12.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (DttZou.) 

Sierra-Leone  nnd  das  Timmen^Land.  Kach  den  ForschungenderYermiDck- 
schen  Expedition  unter  E.  Vohsen,  Dr.  W.  Hart  u.  E.  Eeller,  1882.  Scale 
1  :  600,000  or  8*1  geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  Petermann's  *  Geographische 
Mittheilungen,'  Jahrgang  1883,  Tafel  11.    Justus  Perthes,  Gotha.    (Dafatt.) 

Sierra  Leone  nnd  Liberia.— Die  englischen  Besitzungen  und  die  unabhangigen 

Stamme  an  der  EOste  zwischen .    Nach  oifiziellen  Quellen  gezeichnet  too 

Bruno  Hassenstein.  Scale  1:250,000  or  3*4  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Petermann's  '  Geographische  Mittheilungen,'  Jahrgang  1883,  Seite  431.  (Duiau.) 

AMERICA. 

Am^riqne,  Carte  desi  colonies  fraufaises  en ,  par  V.  A.  Malte-Bron.    (Atlas 

de  la  France  iUustr^e).    Paris,  J.  Bouff.    {Dulau.) 

GTeenland.~Troi8  Cartes  pr^lombiennes  repr^sentant  une  partie  de  TAmftiqae 
(Groenland).  Fac-simile  present^  an  Oongrfes  International  des  Amrfricanistea  i 
Copenhague  par  A.  E.  NordenskiSld.  1883.  Photoh'thographie  de  I'lnstitot 
Lithographique  de  I'Etat-Major  G^n^ral.  Typographic  de  I'Imprimerie  Ccntrale. 
Stockholm.    Price  3a.  6d.    IZhOau.) 

Yukon,  Earte  des  Tschilkat-Gebietes  mit  den  Passen  zum .     Nach  eigeiuo 

Aufnahmen  im  Jahre  1882  von  Dr.  Arthur  Erause.  Scale  1:500,000  or  6*8 
geographical  miles  to  an  inch.  D.  Eeimer,  Berlin,  1883.  Zeitschr.  der  Get  L 
Erdk.  zu  Berlin,  Bd.  xviii.  Taf.  9.    (Dulau.) 

AUSTRALASIA. 

New  Zealand,  Map  of .    Scale  1:2,550,000  or  34 '9  geographical  miles  to 

an  inch.    Dr.  James  Hector.    Photo-lithographed  at  the  General  Survey  Office, 
^    Wellington,  N.Z„  1883. 

This  map  contains  statistical  tables  of  the  trade,  population,  means  of  com- 
munication, immigration,  tel^raphs,  finance,  &c.,  and  must  be  most  useful  for 
reference  to  all  interested  in  the  colony. 


NEW  MAPS.  751 

Vorth-Wettem  Australia. — ^Map  to  accompany  the  Report  on  the  Eimberley 
District,  by  the  Honorable  John  Forrest,  C.M.O.,  Commisaioner  of  Grown  Lands 
and  Surveyor  Oeneral.  Showing  the  Bonte  followed  and  the  Natural  Features  and 
Description  of  the  Country.  Scale  1 :  512,000  or  7  geographical  miles  to  an  inch. 
Photo-lithographed  at  the  Surveyor  General's  Office,  Perth,  W.A.,  1882. 

CHARTS. 

Admiralty.— Charts  and  Plans  published  by  the  Hydrographic  Department, 
Admiralty,  in  September  and  October  1883. 

No.  Inches. 

1826        m       =     0*5      England,  west  coast: — Formby  point  to  the  firth  of 

Solway.    Price  25. 
1571        m       =     1*25    Spain,    east    coast:  —  Port    Alfaques.     Burriana  road. 
Castellon  de  la  Plana  road.    Price  U. 
497        m       =     1*25    Sea  of  Marmara :— Gulf  of  Ismid. ,  Price  4s. 
2522  Pkn  added,  Imbituba  bay. 
23  Plan  added,  Caracciolo  bay. 
877  Plan  added,  Bayo  cove. 
604  Plan  added.  Port  Ambriz. 
875  Plan  added,  Ba-Moon  anchorage. 
(J.  D,  Potter,  agent.) 

CHARTS  CANCELLED. 

Ko.  Ganoelled  hj  Ko. 

1965  Formby  to  Fleetwood  ..      ...    ..   \  New  chart.    Formby  point  to  the 

1826  Fleetwood  to  firth  of  Solway       ..    /      firth  of  Solway 1826 

1571  Port  Alfaques       New  plan.    Port  Alfaques  ..      ..     1571 

81  Telok  Betong. 
1050  Admiralty  gulf  and  Vansittart  bay. 

CHARTS  THAT  HAVE  RECEIVED  IMPORTANT  CORRECTIONS. 

No.  1934.  England,  east  coast : — ^Entrance  to  the  river  Tyne.  2212.  China  :— 
Hui-Ling  San  harbour  to  Hong  Kong.  755.  Bay  of  Bengal : — False  point  anchorage. 
761.  West  Indies : — West  India  islands  and  Caribbean  sea,  sheet  1.  1069.  Aus- 
tralia, east  coast: — Port  Jackson.  401.  Australia,  south  coast: — Port  Augusta. 
941a.  Eastern  Archipelago,  western  portion.  2761.  Sumatra,  west  coast : — 
Tyingkokh  bay  to  Sunda  strait.  2056.  Eastern  Archipelago : — Sunda  strait.  1513. 
Mediterranean,  Archipelago: — Salamis  and  Eleusis  bays.  2682.  England,  west 
coast : — ^Nash  point  to  New  Passs^e.  477.  South  America,  west  coast : — ^Trinidad 
channel.  2351.  Australia,  east  coast : — Cape  Tribulation  to  cape  Flattery.  1757. 
Fiji  islands. — Nukulau  island  to  Namuka  island.  2202a.  South  Atlantic  ocean : — 
Eastern  portion.  987.  South  Pacific  ocean: — Plans  of  islands.  2526.  South 
America,  east  coast: — Buenos  Ayres  road.  2062.  China: — Tong-King  gulf. 
1179.  England,  west  coast : — Bristol  channel.  23975.  Scotland : — North  and  east 
coasts.  2562.  China: — Canton  river.  2622.  Scotland,  north  coast: — Fair  isle. 
1951.  England,  west  coast:— Liverpool  bay.  2206.  Black  sea :— Odessa  bay.  2160. 
Eastern  Archipelago : — Carimata  strait.  1309.  South  America,  east  coast : — ^Ports 
Desire  and  Gallegos,  Sea  Bear  bay.  136.  Bay  of  Bengal :— -Calcutta  to  Saugor 
point.  269.  North  America,  east  coast : — Sapelo  sound  to  Florida  and  Providence 
channels.  2550.  Scotland,  east  coast:— Port  of  Wick.  1815.  North  sea:— Elbe, 
Weser,  and  Jade  rivers.  1872.  North  sea : — Calais  to  the  river  Schelde  entrance. 
1895.  England,  south  coast: — ^Dungeness  to  the  Thames.     2160.  France,  north 


752  NEW  MAPS. 

coast: — ^Boulogne  to  Dunkerque.  1601.  China: — Wusung  river.  1256.  China >» 
Pe-chili  and  Liau-tung  gulfs.  2681.  MediterraneaD,  £^pt : — Abukir  bay.  SOS. 
Newfoundland  :—Miquelon  islands.  2378.  Black  sea:— Biig  river.  2680.  Fniie% 
north  coast : — Havre  roadstead.    (J.  D,  Potter,  agent.) 

Cani  Books  from  the  Shoal  discovered  by  Capt.  G.  Jinman,  f.b.g.8.,  and  Capii 
J.  H.  C.  Leuty,  September  1883. 

United  States  Charts.— Ko.  928.  Caroline  Island.  South  Pacific  Comb. 
Surveyed  by  the  Oflficers  of  the  U.S.S.  EaHford.  Capt.  C.  C.  Carpenter  Coil» 
manding,  1882.  Price  Is.  Zd. — No.  927.  Northern  part  of  the  Labos  AftM^ 
Islands.  From  a  Peruvian  Survey.  Price  lOrf.  Published  October  1883,  at  th^ 
Hydrographic  OflSce,  Navy  Department,  Washington,  D.C.  J.  R.  Bartlett,  Qaa^ 
mander  U.8.N.,  Hydrographer  to  the  Bureau  of  Navigation. 

EDUCATIONAL. 

Amerika,  Schul-Wandkarte  von ,  von   V.  Haardt.     Scale  1 :  10,000,000  ( 

136*9  geographical  miles  to   an  inch.    Wien,  HdlzeL     4  sheets.    Price 
{Bulau.) 

Europa,  Schul-Wandkarte  von ,  von  V.  Haardt.    Scale  1 : 4,000',000  or  551 

geographical  miles  to  an  inch.    Politiscbe  Ausgabe.      4  sheets.     Wieo,  HSfa 
Price  8«.    (Ditlau.) 

Graeoiae  antiquae  tabula  in  usum  scholarum  descripta.    Scale  1 :  500,000  or  6*1 
geographical  miles   to  -an  inch.     Berlin,    D.  Reimer.     9  sheets.     Price 
{Dulau.) 

ItaUa  antiqna  in  usum  scholarum  scripta.    Scale  1 :  800,000  or  10*9  geograp 
miles  to  an  inch.     Berlin,  D.  Reimer.    6  sheets.    Price  9s.    (Dulav.) 


/^^ 


'^^'^ 


K 


r,,,,.-:^}^' 


r  f^ofmttamgg  of  thm  Apyal  timtf^rapltnsal  SMiiM,  UBS 3 , 


TTBarsf 


X^IBlc  ^>< 


X 


(     753     ) 


INDEX. 


A. 

A-Babua  tbibe,  81 

A-Bdrnmba  tribe,  Hi 

A-Madi  tribe,  33 

A-Mezim^  tribe.  33,  34 

Ab-bid  to  Dizful.  Captain  WelU*  Itinerary 
of  road  from,  153 

Ab-i-shuror  Fahlyun  river,  161 

Ab-i-zerd  river,  Persia,  151 

Abadeh,  ruined  village,  Persia,  142 

Abbadie,  M.  d',  235 

Abbot,  Keith,  referred  to,  712 

Abdul  Nabi,  Haji,  referred  to,  721 

Abdullah>khan,  ruins  of  the  rubtit,  G 

Abed  ben  Saiim,  sheikh,  1G5 

Abcrdare,  Lord,  Address  on  opening  tlie 
Session  1883-84,  729 

— — ^ —  Annual  Address  on  the  Pro- 
gross  of  Geography  for  1882-3,  377  ct 
Btq. 

■  on  M.  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps, 


remarks  on  Colbome   Babor's 


735 


paper  on  Cliina  in  some  of  its  Physical 
and  Social  Aspects,  453,  457 

—  remarks  on  G.  R.  Markham's 


paper  on  The  Basins  of  ihe  Amaru-mayu 
and  the  Beni,  341,  347 

remarks  on  M.  P.  M.  Lessar's 


Second  Journey  in  the  Turkoman  Coun- 
try— Askabad  to  Gliurian  near  Herat, 
19,22 

■  remarks  on  Mr.  Powell's  paper 


on  Visits  to  the   Eastern  and  North- 
eastern Coasts  of  New  Guinea,  514-510 
-  remarks  on  Nordenskiold's  pro- 


jected expedition  to  Greenland,  234 
remarks  on  Notes  on  the  Cen- 
tral Provinces  of  Colombia,  265,  267 

remarks   on    Presentation    of 


Medals,  418,  420 

-  remarks  on  proposing  the  toast 


of  the  Medallists  for  the  year,  424 

■  remarks  on  The  Second  Voyage 


of  the  Eira  to  Franz-Josef  Land,  221,  227 
-  remarks  on  the  various  means 


of  communication  between  Central  Persia 

and  the  sea,  130, 137 
Abgal,  nomud  tribe,  717 
Abigargar  canni,  127 
Abimio,  city  of,  on  the  Caspian,  171 
Aboma  tribe,  Africa,  707 

No.  XII.— Dec.  1883.] 


Aboubakar  or  Aboubekre,  Pacha  of  Zeila* 

558 
Aboulfeda,  Geography  of,  translated  an.l 

accompanied  by  notes  by  Bl  Stanislas 

Guyard  (New  Books),  676 
Abudja,  Niger  river,  t)59 
Abyssinia,  Dr.  Stecker's  explorations  in, 

651 
Gerhard  Rohlfs'  expedition  to, 

B.  Hassenstoin'd  map  to  illustrate  (New 

Maps),  55 

My  Mission    in,  by  Gerhanl 


RohlfH  (New  Books),  305 

Achmet  Yusuf,  717 

Ackermann,  Dr.  Carl,  Contribntions  on  U.e 
Physical  Geograpliy  of  the  Baltic  (New 
Books),  742 

Aoora  stream.  Gold  Coast,  38 

Acosta,  Clolonel,  266 

Adakhan  village,  162 

Adam-yolan  well,  Persia,  5 

Adamaua  country,  551 

Addi^ss,  Annual,  on  the  Progress  of  Geo- 
graphy, by  Lord  Aberdare.  377  et  «"). 

on  opening  the  Session  1883-4, 

729 

Adelaide,  longitude  of,  taken  by  C.  E.  Peek, 
488 

Admiralty  Charts  (New  Maps),  117,  310, 
376,  439,  631,  686,  751 

Surveys  for  the  year  1882,  Re- 
port on,  by  Captain  Sir  Frederick  J.  O. 
Evans,  B.N.,  k.c.b.,  f.b.s.,  593 

1882,  Summary  of,  l^ 


Captain  Sir  Frederick  Evans,  386 
Adriatic^  the,  by  Amand  von  Schweiger- 

Lerchenfeld  (New  Books),  49 
JEpyoeroi  melampus,  S.W.  Africa,  464 
Afghanistan,  Travels  of  the  Russian  Mis- 
sion in,  and  the  Khanate  of  Bokhara,  by 
Dr.  Javorsky  (New  Books),  302 
Africa,    Lieutenant    Wissman's   journey 
across,  163, 164 

the  Rogozinski  expedition  to,  173 

as  a  Field  for  Trade,  by  Fritz 

Robert  cNew  Books),  432 

-  East,  progress  ^>f  civilisation  and 


trade  in,  542,  543 

Interior  of,  The  Water  Highways 


of  the,  by  James  Stevenson  (New  Books), 
498 

map  of,  D^pot  de  la  Guerre,  Pori» 

(New  Maps),  55,  436 

3  D 


764 


INDEX. 


Africa,  South,  A  Guide  to  the  Gold-fields 
of,  by  W.  Henry  Penning  (New  Books), 
498 

innp  of,  by  T.  B.  Johnston, 

(New  Maps),  438 

South -cttstcm,  tribes  related  to 


the  Zulus  in,  285 

South'Equatorial,  Stations  of  the 


French  Jesuit  Mission  in,  230 

-  West,  Excursions  of  M.  L.  Petit 


in,  175 

and  CJentml,  oxen  of,  165 

Central,  German   explorers 

in,  381 

West-Equaforinl,   by  B.  Hassen- 


stein  (Pctermunu'sMittheilungen)  (New 

Maps),  376 
African  Lake  Region,  CJentral,  exploration 

of  the,  405 
Lakes  Company,  commission   to 

Mr.  Henry  Drummond,  405 
Africana;    or.    The   Heart    of   Heathen 

Africa,  by  Rev.  Dufif  Macdonald  (New 

Books),  182 
Agar-chisme,  springs  at,  5 
Agram,  map  of  the  neighbourhood  of  (New 

Maps),  627 
Aguna  and   Western  Akim,  richness  of 

gold  in,  37 

Swaydra,  auriferous  quartz  at,  38 

Agyar,  M.  E.,  astronomical  chronometer 

invented  by,  557 
Ahdr    to    Sarak,    Lieut.-Col.   Beresford 

Lovett's  Itinerary,  59 
Ahmadou,  King,  43 
Ahmadu,  king  of  Segu,  36 

,at  Sego,  empire  of,  428 

Ahwaz,  rapfds  on  river  Kariin,  at,  125 

to  Ameerah,  distance  from,  156 

to  Mohammcrah,  road  from,  156 

to  Shiraz,  Captain  Wells'  journey 

from,  156 
Ainchiu,  616 
Aka  Hills,  620 
Ak<^,  ruins  of,  Yucatan,  45 
Akhdl-Tekke  oasis,  the,  2 
Ak-robat,  road  through,  to  Afghanistan,  6 

wells,  7 

Ak-su  river,  392 

Alai  river,  the,  157  • 

Alaman-jangal,  ford  on  the  Tojend  river,  4 
Alaska,  Skizze  des  Weges  von  Deschii  bis 

zum   Weatliohen    Knssooa,  by  Dr.   A. 

Kranse  (New  Maps),  55 
Albolaki  Lake,  Persia,  14C 
Albrolhos  Banks,  coral  bank  near,  595 
Albuquerque,  New  Mexico,  667 
J  Ices  AmericaiiuSf  635 

Alcook,  Sir  Rutherford,  remarks  on  Col- 
borne  Baber's  paper  on  China,  453 
Aldrich,  Conimander,  595 
Alert,  the,  surveying  ship,  209,  593 
Alexandra  Land,  Franz-Josef  Land,  225 
AlexandroflF,  Colonel,  survey  from  Kun- 

grad  to  Gulf  of  Mertvvkulduk,  392 
Alpiers,  map  of,  IMpot  de  la  Guerre,  Paris 

(New  Maps),  55 


Algiers,  The  History  of.   Conquest  and 

Colonisation,  by  Paul    GafTurel  (New 

Books),  112 
AH  Kasir  Arabs,  the.  154 
Ali  Khan  Agha,  head  of  the  Astrabadi 

Kajars,  80,  81 
Aliabad  and  Charbagh,  valley  of.  Persia, 

77 

pastures,  Persia,  76 

Alieli  Turkomans,  the,  2  note 

A  lima  river.  West  Africa,  702 

Aling  Gangri,  614 

Almora,  617 

Alphonse  Island,  596 

Alps,  The  Cottian  and  Grnian,  by  Florian 

Valleutin(New  Books),  182 
Wall-map  of  the,  by  E.  Leeder(New 

Maps),  748 
Alta  Vera  Paz,  hills  of,  Guatemala,  191 
Altglaubigen  Bay,  662 
Am  Mochu  river,  617 
Amaramba  Lake,  S.E.  Africa,  482 
Amaru-mayu  or  Mayu-tata  river,  Bolivia, 

313 
and  tlie  Boni,  The  Basins  of 

the,  by  Clements  B.  Markham,  313  ct 

seq. 

■  river,  derivation  of  the  namo 


of,  343 

Amazon  river,  from  the  Para  month  to 
Manaos,  charts  of  the  (United  States 
Hydrographic  OflBoe)  (New  Maps),  55 

Amb,  616 

Ambemoli  river,  mouths  of  the,  513 

Amboyna,  Malay  Archipelago,  47 

Ambriz,  West  Africa,  692,  711 

Anibrizete,  town,  river  and  natives  rf. 
West  Africa,  693 

Ameerah  to  Samayme,  distance  from,  150 

America,  A  Scamper  through,  by  T.  S, 
Hudson  (New  Books),  49 

Central,  on  the  Volcanic  and 

Earthquake  Regions  o^  with  observa- 
tions on  recent  phenomena,  by  William 
Hancock,  669 

in  Wort  und  Bild,  by  Friedrich 


von  Hellwald(New  Books),  241 

-  map  of  the  French  Colonies  in, 


by  V.  A.  Malte-Bmn  (New  Maps),  750 
North,  Stanford's  Oompendinm 


of  Geography  and  Travel,  edited  an.i 
enlarged  by  Professor  Hayden  an»l 
Professor  Sehiyn  (New  Books),  432 

The  Horizontal  Configora- 

tion  and  Composition  of  Europe  and,  bv 
Valentin  Ullrich  (New  Books).  .S73 

•  School  Wall-map  of,  by  V.Haanlt 


(New  Maps),  752 

-  South,  Journeys  in,  by  Dr.  J. 


Crevaux  (New  Books),  113 

—'  M.  Thenar's  progress  in, 


-  Rivers  of,  by   Dr.  Juks 


174 


Crevaux  (New  MapsX  309 ' 

■  surveys  of  coast  of,  ^-di 


American  Biographies,  South,  by  H.  A 
Schumacher  (New  Books),  746* 


INDEX. 


755 


American    civiliwition,   in<]igcnou8,    mis- 
sion   for    studying?    ruins     in     Cetitml 

America,  to  throw  light  on  the  ugo  and 

origin  of,  44,  45 
Amethyst,  H.M.S.,  COO 
Ami-chou  or  Anin,  Cliina,  447 
Aminoflf,  M.,  10 
Ammat-ul-Zimmon,  154 
Ancobra  river,  West  Africa,  39,  600 
and    Axim  gold  district, 

survey  of  the,  by  Commander  R.  Murray 

Kumsey,  &n.,  39 
An<lefort  (Andefjord)  Island,  72G 
Anilerson  or  Beghula    river,  Athabasca 

district,  646 
Andersson,  Mr,,  470 
Andes,  Cordilleras  of  the,  Mr.   R.    Blake 

White's  table  of  mcuii  teinptratures  of 

the,  268,  264 

EHstern,  formation  of,  313,  314 

western  cordillera  of  the,  250 

Andnida,  Captain  Paiva  de,   travels    in 

Africa,  382 
Andreati,  Dr.,  referred  to,  712 
Audreief,  Lieutenant,  3!)0 
Aiieserun  Uplands,  Persia,  70 
Angola,  district  of,  Afii«-a,  705 
Anin  or  Ami-chou,  China,  447 
Anniversary  Dinner,  report  of  the,  424 
Meeting  of  R.  (J.  S.,  May 

28tli,  1883,  proceeiiings  of,  411  ct  s.'*/. 
Anona  seneyalensis,  287 
Ansell,  W.  T.,  telegram  from,  rcsptcting 

Consul  O'Neill,  719 
Antarctic   regions,    French  nnd    German 

meteorological  stnlions  in  the,  37S 
Antigua  descrilM-d,  Guatemala,  190 
Antilles,  A  Piirisian  in  the,  by — Quatrtlles 

(New  Books),  679 
Antioquin,  Stute  of,  Colombia,  250 
. industry  of  inhabitants 

«f  the,  and  gold-mining  of,  254 

•  western  frontier  of,  252 


Anuchin,  D.  N,,  inve^stigation  of  the  caves 

of  Dngliestan,  391 
Anyower,  Ctntnl  Africa,  482 
Aosta,  Valle  d'.  624 
Aousf,  M.  Virlet  d',  on  the  orthography  of 

geographical  names,  176 
Apii-hana  river,  Bolivia,  336 
Apolobamba,  Bolivia,  335 
river,  tributary  of  river  Eoni, 

Bolivia,  314 
ApiHil,  Mr.  William,  415 
Appelberg,  M.,  4«t6 
Appi^^  Pastor,  299 

Arabia  and  Persia,  map  of  Parts  of  (Trigo- 
nometrical  Branch,   Survey  of   Imha) 

(New  Maps),  749 
Arabia  Petrica,  Reconnaissance  of,   map 
.     of  the,  made  nndcr  direction  of  (joloncl 

C.  Warreu  (Ntw  Maps),  436 
Arakaj,  the  name  and  derivation  of,  14  atul 

n.>te 
Arakan  range,  017 
Arauna  Indians,  the,  331 
Archdeacon,  Stafif  Commander,  594 


Archduke  Louis  Sal  valor  of  Austria,  books 
presented  by,  to  i'aris  Geographical 
Society,  557 

Archibald.  E.  Douglas,  grants  of  instra- 
ments  to,  415 

Arcopongo  river,  Bolivia,  340 

Arctic  Committee,  Dutch,  members  of.  M8 
expedition.  Baron  Nordenskiold's 


new,  165 


-  Danish,  the,  166 

-  Dut<:h,    departnro 


of 


603 
177 


the.  1883,  348 

-  expeditions,  the  Dutch  and  Danish, 

■  progress  of  various,  176, 

-  summary  of  the  various, 
378,  379 

Ocean,    between    Greenland   and 

Nova  Zcmla,  chart  of  the  (Hydro- 
graphic  Office,  Washington)  (New  Maps), 
55 

Regions,  coast  of  Arctic  America 

(New  3Iups),  630 

—  the  former  distribntioo  of 


the  Esquimaux  (New  Maps),  630 

Ardall,  Persia,  131 

to  Dopulan,  Captain  Wells'  Itiner- 
ary of  road  from,  146 

Ardel,  the  road  through,  133 

Ardonne,  the  Hailes  nf,  A  Vifit  to  tlio 
Caves  of  Han  (New  Books),  497 

Argentidre,  Col  de  1',  554 

"  Aria  Palus  "  lake,  14  and  note,  172 

Arizona,  notes  on  the  territory  of,  by 
Litton  Forbes,  667    . 

Arjumand  to  Firusknh,  Lieut.  -  Colonel 
Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  67 

Anna  river,  valley  cf  the,  250 

Arman  Mountains,  147 

Armit,  Lieutenant,  referred  to,  731,  740 

Amaud-Bey,  proof-map  of  the  Bahr-el- 
Abiad  (White  Nile),  by,  43 

Arena,  621 

Arsinki'ni  to  Mckhsds,  Lieut-Col.  Beres- 
ford Lovett's  Itinerary,  61 

Artillery  Lake,  North  America,  634 

Arosha,  tribe  from,  289 

Amsha-wa-Chini.  545 

Arusha-wa-Jun,  549 

Asafu,  Quantity  of  gold  at,  37 

Asahi,  620 

Asin,  Central,  Colonel  Prejevalsky's  new 
expedition  to,  552 

Third  Journey  to,  by  Col.  N. 

Prejevulskv  (New  Books),  431 

map  indicating  tiie  relative  positions 

of  the  French  Colonies  in,  by  V.  A. 
Malte-Brnn  (New  Maps),  749 

Physical  Wall-map  of,  by  H.  Kiepert 

(New  Maps),  436 

Russian  Central,  a  Joomey  in,  includ- 
ing Kulja,  Bokhara,  and  Khiva,  by  Rev. 
Henry  Landsell,  669 

Summary  of  progress  of  various  ex- 

peilitions  in,  382-384 

Asian  chain,  divisions  of  the  Central,  612 
3  D  2 


756 


INDEX. 


Ask   to    Lesan,   Licrt.-Col.     Beresrord 
Lovett's  Itinerary,  65 

Askabad  and  Herat,  roads  between.  6 

to  Ghurian,  near  Herat,  M.  P.  M. 

Lesaar's  Second  Journey  in  the  Turko- 
man Country,  1  et  aeq.,  2SZ 

to  Henit,  vi&  Sarakha,  possibilities 

of  a  railway  from,  6 

-  to  Musb-had,  difficulties  in  roads 


from,  6 


to  Sarakhs,  railway  from,  13 

Asolat  to  Arsinkini,  Lieut.-Col.  Beresford 
Lovett's  Itinerary,  61 

Assalu,  Persia,  7H 

Assam,  617,  619,  620 

Assiniboia  and  Alberta,  maps  of  part  of 
the  districts  of  (Department  of  the  In- 
terior, Ottawa)  (New  Maps),  438 

Assiniboine,  Fort,  North  America,  634 

Assyria,  the,  127 

Afttrabad  to  Shahrud,  survey  of  country 
between,  Lieut.-CoL  Beresford  Lovett's 
Itinerary,  75 

Astrolabe  iiay.  New  Guinea,  511,  512 

Asu,  village  nf,  Persia,  66 

Asuboah,  snails  used  as  an  article  of  diet 
at,  38 

Atak  district,  the.  13 

meaning  of  the  word,  1  and  note,  2, 

13 

M.  Lessar's  list  of  settlements   in 

the,  2 

scarcity  of  water  among  the  Turko- 
man inhabitants  of  the,  2 

Ataks,  mixed  population  of  the,  2  note 

Athabasca,  La  Biche  or  Red-deer  river, 
U34  et  xq. 

District  of  the  CJanadian  North- 
west Territory,  On  the,  by  Eev.  £mile 
Petitot,  633  et  scq.,  667 

■  Dibtrictof  the  Canadian  North- 


west   Territory,    letter    from     Emile 
Petitot  ol^  728 
Indians  of  the,  648  et 


table  of  number  of  in. 

habitants  of  the,  in  1879,  652,  653 

•  vegetation  and  animals 


of  the,  G39, 610 

-  estuary,  creeks  and  marshy  sa- 


vanna of  the,  641.  612 

-  Lake,  dimensions,  soil,  fishes, 


and  rivers  of,  644,  645 

explorers  of,  648 

-  table  of  temperatures  at. 


taken  by  M.  Petitot,  654,  655 
Athabascan  Tinney  or  Slaves,  649 
Atitlan,  Guatemala,  190 
Atlantic  nnd  Pacific  Railway,  the  new,  667 
North,   The  Norweginn  Expedi- 
tion   1876-1878,    by  H.  Mohn    (New 
Books).  497 

Ocean,  North,  Messrs.    Siemens 

Bros.  &  Co.'s  charts  of  the  (New  Maps), 
55 
Atlantis,  by  E.-F.  Berlioux  (New  Books), 
240 


Atlas,  Manual,  of  Modem  Geography  (Sew 

Blaps),  120 
New  Classical,  by  G.  Qnosnel  (Xew 

Maps),  687 
Popular,  Lctt^,  Son  &  Co.'s  (New 

Maps),  440 
Atlases.  New,  120,  312,  440,  687 
Atrato  river,  Colombia,  251 

Upper,  valley  of  the,  2.')1 

valley,  251  #<  seq. 

Attypa  reticuiaris,  639 

Attica,  map  of  (New  Maps),  434 

Attock,  India,  611 

Plain,  623 

Aul)rv,  M.  Aug, 494 

Auleitsivik  Fiord,  602 

Australasia.  Geographical  Society  of,  prrv 

greas  of  the  new,  560 
Australia    and   New    Zealand,    map    of, 

for  the  use  of  teachers  (New   Maps), 

688 

North -Western,   Forrestfs    ex- 


plorations in,  722 


map  to  aoconi- 

Kimberlev  Di»- 

(New  MapsX 


pnny  Report   on    the 
tric^,    by  Juhn    Forrest 
751 

South,   Adelaide  (New  MapsX 

631 


copy  of  rough  plan  show- 
ing explorations  by  Mr.  Winnecke 
(New  Maps),  631 

map  of  (New  Itlaps),  630 

map  of  country  between 

Adelaide  and  the  sea  coast  (New  Maps), 
630 

map    showing    the    area 

cultivated  for  wheat  from  1870-82, 4c. 
(New  Maps),  630 

Western,  surveys  of  coasts  ol. 


Society,    an. 


597 
Austrolian    Geog^phical 

founded  at  Sydney.  407 
race,  the  'black,  M.   Miklokho- 

Maclav's  study  of  the,  47 
Austria  t'iord,  Franz-Josef  Land,  211 
Lower,    Grenzgebirge,    Tourist* 

map  of,  by  G.  Freytag  (New  Maps),  568 
Austro-Huiigarian  Kingdom,  map  of,  by 

Joseph  Ritter  (New  Maps),  501 
by  J. 

Scheda  (New  Maps),  627 
SDccial  nup 

of  (Xew  Maps),  748 
Austro-Uungary,  map  of  (New  Sfaps),  181, 

435,  748 

^Physical-Statistical  Han<l- 

atlas  of  (New  Maps),  120,  312 
Aurora,  the  jagt,  96 
"  Anx  CEufs,"or  Egg  river.  North  Americj, 

640 
Avalle,  E.,  Notes  of  the  British  Olonies 

(New  Books),  682 
Aveiro,    Joao    Aflbnso    d',    referred    to, 

229 
Aweniba  people,  the,  East  A  frica,  690 
Awiwa  range,  East  Africa,  690 


INDEX. 


757 


Ajis-iyiniwok  or  lyiniwok  Indians,  649 
Aymonier,  M.  E.,  referred  to,  740,  741 
Aynsue  stream,  Gold  C^oast,  37 
Ayopaya  river,  tributary  of  river   Bcni, 
Bolivia.  314 

tyuna  rapid,  Bolivia,  339 
zad  Khan,  Sirdar,  720 
Azevedo,  M.  A.  P.  d',   map  of  Madeira 

Island,  429 
Aztecs,  the,  of  Mexico,  2G6 
Azuay,  the  province  of,  Ecuador,  353 

B. 

Ba-Hloekwa  tbibe,  285 

Bn-Libale  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 

Ba-Kotse  or  Ma-Rotse  tribe  of  the  Zam- 
besi, 167 

Ba-Tonga  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  1C7 

Baba-dnrmaz,     uninhabited      settlement, 
Russian  boundary,  2 

Baber,  E.  Colbome,  382 

China  in  some  of  its 

Physical  and  Social  aspects,  441  ct  scq. 
■  curiosities  of  travel  un 


the  Tibetan  border,  673 

-  presentation  of  Patron's 


medal  to,  417.  42U,  421 
Babiia  country,  the  reported  lake  in  the,  35 
Babwende  tribe,  West  Africa,  706 
Buck  Grant,  award  of,  for  1883,  297 
Back,  Lieutenant,  visit  to  Lake  Athabasca, 

648 

Sir  George,  referred  to,  728 

Backhouse,  Mr.,  referrcil  to  in  Alarkham's 

paper  on  The  Basins    of   the  Amaru- 

mayu  and  the  Beni,  322 
Baddeley,  M.    J.    B.,    Thorough    Guide 

Series.    The  Northern   Highlands  ami 

Islands  (New  Books),  430 
Baden,  village  of,  Persia,  138 

to  Kliairabad,  distance  from,  139 

Badgheis  d^trict,  the,  15.  17 

Btiedeker,  ySjoxl,  Greece  (New  Books).  3 JO 

Italy  (New  Books),  :<67 

West     and     Mii  -  Russia 

(New  Books),  367 
Bafulabe.  fort  at,  36 
Bngh-i-malek  or  Man-zanik  rninii,  150 
Ba^h-i-wasch  village,  Persia,  144 
Bagha  river,  615 
Baghdad  and  Ehanakin,  desirability  of  a 

railway  l)etween,  124 
and  Kerbelai  and  Meshed  A'.i, 

railway  between,  136 

to  Khanakin,  road  from,  13t5 

■  toKirmanshah,  the  route  from,134 

to  Tehran,  road  from,  121 

Bahr-el-Abiail  (White  Nile),  proof- map  of, 

by  Amaud-Bey,  43 
Bahr-el-Warshal,  or  Makua,  35 
Bahringo,  Lake,  East  Central  Africa,  604, 

658 
Bainea,  Thomas,    the    African    traveller, 

marble  tablet  erected  in  the  church  at 

Durban  in  memory  of,  37 
Boirnsfather,  Lieut.,  referred  to,  222 


Bajanr,  615 

Bajaws,  the,  or  sea-gipsies,  Malay  Archi- 
pelago, 91 
Baker,  Sir  Samuel,  480 
Bakhtiari  Hills.  150, 152 

tribe,  the,  Persia,  125, 131, 138 

Bakongo  tribe.  West  Africa,  70  > 
Bakouline.  Consnl,  referred  to,  79 
Baku,  Persia,  136 

to  Tiflis,  railway  from.  135 

Bdladeh  to  Chasmeh  Shuhi,  Lieut. -(Lionel 

Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary.  62 
Balance-sheet  of  R.  G.  S.  for  1882,  413 
Balearic  Isles  (New  Books),  179 
Balkan,  Little,  range.  172 
Balkan-Halbinsel,  Political  Wall-map  of. 
Richard  Kiepert's  School  Wall-maps  of 
European  Countries  (New  Maps),  688 

School  Wall-map  of,  by 

O.  Berendsen  (New  Maps),  56 
Ball,  John,  419 

Balochistan,  Wanderings    in,  by   Major- 
General  Sir  C.    M.   Macgregor  (New 
Books),  109 
Balsa  tree,  rafts  made  from  the,  335, 336 
JialsM^  Indian  rafts,  336 
Baltic,  Contributions  on  the  Physical  Geo- 
graphy of  the,  by  Dr.  Carl  Ackermann 
(New  Books),  74*2 
Baltistan,  623 
Baltoro  Glacier,  624 

Bamaku  on  the  Niger,  Colonel   Borguis- 
Desbordes'  expedition  to,  3u.    See  also 
Banmako 
B.inmngwato  country,  recent  journey  in 

the,  484 
Bamburas  tribe.  428 
Bamberg,  K.,  Wall-map  of  Germany  (New 

Maps),  56 
B.imi  to  Askabnd,  tramway  in  course  of 

construction  from,  12 
Bampa  Harbour,  East  Africa,  691 
Banana  Point.  West  Africa,  694,  695 
Bananeira  Falls,  Bolivia,  334 
Baud-i-Kir   to    Ahwaz,     Cttptain    Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  155 
Bandar  Gez,  170 
Bundimir  river,  Persia,  139 
Bangkok  to  the  Mekung,  Original  Map  of 
the  route  from  (Petormanu's  Mittueil- 
ungen)  (New  Maps),  375 
Bangweulo,  Lake,  Africa,  659,  691 

races  inhabiting,  705i 

Banmako  country.    Captain   Delanneau's 
communication  on,   427.    See  also  B:w 
maku 
Bantu  family.  West  Africa,  705 
JJanunu  tribe,  West  Africa,  706 
Burabasch,  Colonel,  progress  of  expedition 

of,  in  Manchuria.  174 
Baralacha  Puss,  616 
Ikiralasa  Pass,  624 
B.irdistan,  Persia,  714 
Bardsen,  Ivnr,  294 
Barents,  Willem,  referred  to,  224 

and  Suitzbergun  Suets,  ice  in  the, 

in  1882,  96 


758 


INDEX. 


BarfeiOBh.  Pema,  58 

BariBg.Mr.,  125, 144 

and  Captain  Wells,  journeys 

of,  in  South-wostcrn  Persia,  128, 129 
Barisan  range,  Sumatra,  G57 
Bark  Mountain,  pisolit^  of  the,  Atliabosca 

district,  637,  638 
Barkhut  Hills,  prolongation  of  the  Paro- 

pamisus  Range,  7 

Pass,  Persian  boundary,  5,  6 

BaroghU  Pass,  India,  614 

Barung  Chaidam,  Tibet,  100 

Barranquilla,  port  of,  C!olombia,  261 

Barrapatta  Peak,  616 

Barro  BiMlenliam,  Charles  de  la.  Obituary 

of,  388 
Barren  Grounds,  the,  Athabasca  district, 

6&1 
Barrere,  M.,  referred  to,  736 
Barrow,  Point,  United  States   (western) 

meteorological  station  at,  378 
Barth,  Dr.,  551 
Bartholomew,    John,    reduced    Ordnance 

Map  of  Scotland  (New  Maps),  601,  627 
Basaoli,  620 

Basha  Braldoh  rivers,  junction  of  the,  615 
Basbt,  160 

Basilisk  Island,  China  Straits,  507 
Basonge  (Musonge  singular)  people,  161 
Bassou,  Great,  or  Costa  river,  229 
Bustian,  A.,  Hawaii  (New  Books),  682 
The  Island  Groups  of  Oceania 

(New  Books),  49 

—  Races  of  the  Brahmaputra  and 


neighbourhood  (New  Books),  49 
Basundi  tribe,  West  Africa,  706 
Batekd  tribe,  the,  West  Africa,  580,  706 
Bathurst,    city    of.    New     Soutli    Wales 

Government  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Batua  tribe,  Africa,  174 
Baudouinville,  711 

Bauhinias,  growing  in  West  Africa,  696 
Bdiin  and  Bamyi'n,  town  of,  16  note 
Baxter,   Dr.,  roraurks  on  A  Visit  to  the 

Ma^aii  jieople  living  beyond  the  borders 

of  the  Nguru  country,  538,  539 
Bayausi  tribe,  West  Africa,  580,  706 

village,  West  Central  Africa,  578 

Bayol,  Dr.,  36,  739 

letter  from,  236 

news    of,    received    by    Paris 

Geographical  Society,  44 

progress  of  expedition,  173, 298, 


561 

Brtzooft,  Persia,  133 
Bear  Lake  river.  North  America,  646 

river,  North  America,  637 

Beas  river,  617,  620 

Valley,  616 

Boasts  Mountain,  Athabasca  district,  615 
Beaulieu  family  settlement  on  tho  Salt 

river,  643.  648 
Beaumont,  Capt.,  referred  to,  223 
Beautemps-Bciinpres,  Mount,  511 
Beaver  Beef,  597 

Tinney  Indians,  the,  648,  651 

Beccari,  Signer,  516 


Becker.  M.,  referred  to,  105 

Bedwell,  F.  Le  B.,  r.n..  Telegraph  Msp 

of  the  Worid  (New  Maps),  373 
Beeren  Island,  107 
Beghida,  or    Anderson    river.  Athabasca 

district,  646 
Behbchan,  158, 159 
to    Khairabad    river,    Captain 

Wells'  Itinerary  of  road  from,  159 

to  Kumeshed,  route  from,  159 


note 

Behind  Sefaleh,  Persia,  77 
Belgrano,  Port,  Bah  la  Blanco,  GOO 
Belize,  port  of,  British  Honduras,  203 
Bell,  Clara,  tran^slation  of  A  Visit  to  Ceyloo, 

by  Ernst  Haeckel  (New  Books),  302 
Bell  Island,  Franz-Josef  Land,  205 
Bellefonds.  Linant  de,  481 
Bellemo,  Vinoenzo,  The  Travels  of  Nicolo 

de'  Conti  (New  Books).  433 
Bellot,  M.  A.,  on  the  Jeannette  cxpeditiou, 

176 
Belmonte,  Sebor,  340 
Beluchistan,  South* western,  expedition  to, 

720 
Bencki  tribe,  164 
Bengyella,  the,  458 
Beni  river,  385 
ascent  of  the,  and  La  Paz  river, 

335  et  seq. 
exploration  of  the,  in  1880-1, 

by  Edwin  R.  Heath,  m.d.,  327  et  seq. 
— —  The  Basins  of  the  Amaru-mayu 

and,  by  Clements  B.  Markham,  313  et 

seq. 
Bonier,  Captain,  referred  to,  741 
Bennion,  Mr.  John,  484 
Bentley  and  Crudgington,  Messrs.,  2^ 
Benue  river,  Mr.   Flegel's  expedition  to 

the,  551 
Berega  and  Mwandi  Ewa  Madila,  country 

between,  518 
Berendsen,  O.,  School  Wall-paap   of  tho 

Balkan-Halbinsel  (New  Maps),  56 
Berentine^  the  jagt,  97 
Berg  Island,  97 

Berggren,  Professor  S.,  865,  564 
Berglmus,  Dr.  H.,  Chart  of  tho  World  on 

Mercator's  projection  (New  Maps)  51 
Stielor's   School    Atlas 

(New  Maps),  56 
and  P.  Gonczy,  Wall- 
map  of  Hungary  (New  Maps),  308 
Berlioux,  E.  F.,  Les  Atlantis  (New  Books), 

2-10 
Bermuda,  An  Account  of.  Past  and  Pre- 
sent, by  John  Ogilvy  (New  Books)  498 
Bernardiores,  M.  de,  scientific  mission  of, 

360 
Bernouilli,  Dr.,  referred  to,  192 
Bero  river,  South-west  Africa,  458 
Berra,  J.  A.,  map  of  the  Oriental  BepubUo 

of  Uruguay  (New  Maps),  688 
Berthond,  Pasteur,  communication  of,  on 

tribes  related  to  the  Zulus,  285 
Besagi  volcano,  Sumatra,  657 
Beslay,  M.  Frangois,  560 


INDEX. 


759 


Bcthune,  Sir  Uoury,  171 

Betsu  Peak,  617 

Bettencourt,  A.  E.  do,  Diacoverics,  Wars, 

and  Conquests  of  the  Portugui-so  beyond 

the  seA8  in  the  15th  and  16th  centuries 

(New  Books),  434 
Beynen,  Koolemans,  energetic  promoter  of 

Arctic  research,  348 
Bianco,  Andron,  475 
Biazid,  Sultan,  shrine  of,  at  Bustam,  Persia, 

79 
Billet,  M.,  referred  to,  73!) 
Billequin,  M.,  31 
Binsar  Peak,  617 
Bu-ch,  or  Bark  Mountain,  637 
Bird  Fountain,  South-west  Africa,  465 
Bird,    Isabella    L.    (Mrs.    Bishop),    The 

Golden  Chersonese  and  the  Wuy  thither 

(Now  Books),  300 
Bird  Island,  596 
Birrira  river,  Akim,  38 
Bisari  Peak,  620 
Bizemont,  M.  H.  de,  176 
Black,  Charles  C.  1).,  letter  from,  on  the 

Upper  Sulwen  or  Lu-tze-kiang   river, 

664 
Blakiston,  Captain,  book  referred  to,  442 
BiaUiuw  I'iatcau.  the,  Sumatra,  657 
Blanc,  Mont,  and  the  valley  of  Chamouuix, 

map  of  (Now  Maps).  688 
Blancliord  Island,  China  Straits,  507 
Blanche  Peninsula,  New  Britain,  511 
Blanford,  Mr.,  611 
Bloyet,  Captain.  428,  429 
Boca  del  Cerro,or  Entrance  to  the  Narrows, 

on  the  Usuuiaciutu  river,  Guatemala, 

197 
Bock,  M.  Carl,  299 
Original  Map  of  the  Boute 

from  Btmgkok  to  the  Mok6n<;  (Peter- 

mann's  Mittheilungen)  (New  Maps),  375 
Boers,  the,  of  Humpata.  462,  471 
Bohemia,  General  Map  of,  by  J.  £.  Wag- 
ner (Now  Alaps),  18 J 
Biihm,  Dr.,  and  Herr  Bcichard,  progress  of 

German  expedition  in  East  Africa,  551 
Bokwa,  village  of,  518 
Bolubo,  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Congo 

to,  by  H.  H.  Johnston,  692  et  seq. 
vUlage,  West  Africa,  575,  579,  702, 

709 
Bologofsky,  Lake,  remains  of  a  people  of 

the  Stone  Age  near,  392 
Boma,  West  Africa,  694,  697,  703,  710 
Bomokandi,  or  Nomayo  river,  34 
Bone,   M.,  bequest    of,    to    the    Imperial 

Academy  of  Sciences  at  Vienna,  298 
Bonola,  M.,  178 
Boodpathar  Ridge,  616 
Books,  New — 

Africa,  111,  182,  305,  371,  432,  498,  567, 
678,  744 

America,  49,  112,  241,   305,  432,  498, 
678,  745  -— ; 

ArcUc,  241,  307,  499,  625,  680,  746 

Asia,   49,  109,  241,  300,  367,  431,  564, 
676,  742 


Australasia,  371,  433,  682.  746 

Euwpe,  48, 108,  179,  240,  366,  430,  497, 
564,  676,  742 

General,  49. 114,  183, 242,308, 372.433, 
499,  567,  626,  682 

Polynesia,  114 
Bopi  river,  or  La  Paz,  Bolivia,  339 
Bordeaux,  the  resolutions  adopted  by  tho 

Geographical  Congress  at,  173, 174 
Socic'tc    de    Geogmphie   Com- 

merciale  de,  173 
Borguis-Desborde:i,  Colonel,  possession  of 

Murgula,  175 
referred     to, 

236,  484 
work  on  the 

Niger,  36.    See  also  Desbordes,  M. 
Borifcs,  Captain,  484 
Borneo  and  the   Sulu    Islands,  Notes  on 

Nortli-eastem,  by  W.  B.  Pryer,  90  et  seq. 
different  tribes  on  tiie  Island  of^  92 

North,  progress  in,  350 

North-west,  Mr.  Ley's  travels  in, 

721 

Boroma  river,  520,  521 

Borromean  Islands,  622 

Jios  brachyceross  West  Africa,  705 

Bosekop  in  Lapland,  Norwegian  Meteoro* 
logical  Station  at,  378 

Boss,  Emil,  604 

Bostam,  79 

Bouba,  738 

"  Boucanes,"  or  subterranean  fixes,  Atha- 
basca district,  636 

BoUinais,  Captain  A.,  and  Professor  A. 
I'aulus.  Tho  Cochin  China  Contempo- 
rary (New  Books).  076 

Boulum,  Inland  of,  communication  from 
fil.  Claude  Trouillet  on,  568,  559,  738 

Bourne,  Frederick  S.  A.,  Notes  of  a 
Journey  to  the  Imperial  Mausolea,  east 
of  Peking.  23  et  seq. 

Bove.  Giaoomo,  Patagonia,  Terra  del 
Fuoco,  Marl  Austral  i  (New  Books),  112 

Lieutenant,  work  in  South  America, 

386 

M,,   journey    in    South    Patagonia 

referred  to,  li)6 

Bowden-Smith,  Captain  N.,  600 

'•  Bowie  "  Arab  tribe  camp  at  Shakhe,  156, 
157 

Brackebusoh.  L.,  Map  of  the  Province  of 
Jujuy ;  Map  of  the  Meridional  Division 
(»f  the  Province  of  Salta ;  Croquis  de  la 
Laguna  do  la  Brca  (New  Maps),  630 

Bracontiier,  Lieutenant,  574 

Brahmaputra  river,  617 

and  Neighbourhood,  Baces 

of  the,  by  A.  Bastiau  (New  Books),  49 

Braidwood,  Plan  of  the  Town  of.  New 
South  Wales  Government  Map  (New 
Maps),  310 

Branco,  Island  of,  740 

Brazil,  Die  Unterliiufe  der  Flusse  Trom- 
bctas,  Yamunda,  &c.  (New  Maps),  55 

Brazza,  M.  de,  104,  483,  736 

exiieditiun  of,  605 


7G0 


INDEX. 


IJraz/a,  M.  de,  reception  of,  by  the  Muoici- 

pal  Council  of  Paris,  43 
-  treaty  of,  with  King  Ma- 

koko,  288,  289 
Brazzaville,  West  Africa,  575 
Brea,  Croquis  de  la  liiguna  de  la,  by  L. 

Brackebnsch  (New  Maps),  C30 
Brest,  Geographical  Exliibition  at,  430 
Bretschaeider,  Dr.,  31 
Bridges,  F.  D..  Journal  of  a  Lady's  Travels 

round  the  World  (New  Books),  183 
Brine,    Captain    Lindeaay,    remarks    on 

explorations  in  Guatemala,  203 
Brinoana  river  of  Ptolemy,  Persia,  715 
Britain,    Great,    the  ports  of,  M.  Louis 

Simonin  on,  299 
British  Archieologv,  Dr.  Montelius'  study 

of,  47,  48 
■  Association,  Proceedings    of   the 

Geographical  Bection  of  the,  Southport 

1883,  610,  677 
. Colonies,  Notes    on    the,   by  E. 

Avalle  (New  Books),  682 

■  Islands,  Political  Wall-map  of  the. 


Kichard  Kiepert's  School  Wall-maps  of 
•  European  Countries  (New  Maps),  56 
Brittany,  by  L.  RUtimeyer  (New  Books). 

48 
Brochets  (or  Pike)  river,  640 
Brockleburst,  Thomas  Unett,  Mexico  To- 
day (New  Books).  241 
Broichmann,  J.,  Map  of  World  on  Merca- 

tor's  Projection  (New  Maps).  683 
Broken  Water  Bay,  New  Guinea,  512 
Brooking,  Mr.,  referred  to,  722 
Brown,  Mount,  Bockv  Mountain?,  634 
ISrowne,  Mount,  North- West  Australia,  722 
BrAle  rapid,  Athabasca  river,  637 
Brunei,  Borneo,  721 
Brumer  Islands,  shoal  off,  507 
Brussels,  National  Institute  of  Geography 

established  at,  297 
Buccione,  hill  of,  621 
Buckle's  remarks  about  Bolivia  referred  to, 

347 
Budrawa,  624 
Budrawar,  616 
Buenaventura,  261 

toC!ordoba,rai]  way  from,  261 

■  to  Nuvito,  primitiveness  of 

natives  from,  255 
Buffalo  river,  C33 
Bugge,  Professor  Soph  us,  48 
Biihler,  General,  referred  to,  76 
Buller,  Sir  Edward  Manningham,  Obituary 

of,  388 
Buludupies  tribe,  the,  Borneo,  92,  94 
Bulungan,  head-bunting  in,  Borneo,  95 
Bunder  Abbas,  124 
Bunji,  India,  611 
Bun-rud  or  Bim-ru,  Persia,  714 
Bura,  Africa,  284,  545 
Burojird,  road  to  Ispahan,  152 
Burrail  range,  617,  619,  624 
Burton,  Richard  F.,  and  Vemey  Loveft 

Cameron,  To  the  Gold  Coast  for  Gold 

(New  Books),  111 


Bushire,  diffienlties  of  road  fiom,  to  tbe 
interior  of  Persia,  123 

English  trade  «t.  123 

—  to  Ispahan,  diffienlties  for  a  nil- 


way  from,  152 
Bussorah  to  Baghdad,  the  river  service  on 

the  Tigris  between,  134 
Bustard  Island,  Athabasca  Lake,  612 
Butler,  Captain.  633 
Buxa,  617,  620 
Buyskes,  P.  J.,  letter  from,  on  the  East 

Bygd,  408 
Bwagamayo,  village  of,  518 
Bygd,  Easf,tho colony  of,  in  Greenland, 29  4 
letter  from  Mr.  Major  to  Lord 

Aberdare  in  reference  to  the,  and  chart 

sent  by  Mr.  Buyskes,  408 
or  Oester  Bygden,  the  colon  y 

of,  in  Greenland,  294 

C. 

Cabeha  DC  Cobra,  natives  of.  West  Africa, 

694 
,   settlement   of,    West 

Africa,  693,  695 
Cabot,  Sebastian,   portrait   of,  offered  to 

Geographical  Society  of  Paris   by  M. 

Codine,  494 
Gaca  river,  or  Huanai  river,  Bolivia,  337 
CJaccres  town,  Colombia,  253 
Cacongo  or  Luango-Luce  river,  229 
Cahabon  river,  Guatemala,  189 
Caillaud,  M.  Romanet  dn,  429,  496 
,  communication 

on  the  mineral  wealthof  Madagascar,  558 

letter  from,  361 

—  on  the  adoption 


of  a  universal  meridian,  560 
—    on 


graphy  of  Edrisi,  298 


the    Geo- 


—   on    the    Sino- 

Annamite  frontier,  173 
Cairo,  map  of  the  Environs  of^  by  H. 

Vaujany  (New  Maps),  117 
Proceedingsof  the  Society  Ehedivialo 

de  Gdbgraphiu  de,  November  3id;  1882; 

178 

December  8th,  1882, 178 

January  19th,  1883,  178 

February  16th.  1883,  299 

March  23.1, 1883,  365 

April  20th,  1883,  366 

Caix    de    Saint-Aymour,    Vte.    do.  The 

Oiuntry  of  the  Sclaves  in  Austro-Hun- 

gnry  (New  Bo».ks).  676 
Cajones  river,  Bolivia,  340 
Calcutta,  619 
Caldas,  Senor,  266 
Caledonia,  New,  "List  of  Books,  &c.,  bearing 

on,  by  Leon  Viillee  (New  Books),  740 
Cali,  tk)lombia,  261,  262 
Calina  Point,  West  Africa,  575 
Calinis,  Indian,  486 
Caloma,  Ensign  Vicente,  referred  to  in 

Markham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 

Amaru-tnayu  and  the  Boni,  321 


INDEX. 


761 


Gumanti,  Hill  of,  Bolivia,  314,  322 

Cnmbier,  Captain,  referred  to,  238 

Cambodia,  741 

CamoSnsia  mcuima,  287,  705 

Campbell,  Dr.,  418 

Canadian  North-West  Territory,  On  the 
Athabasca  district  of  the,  by  Itev.  Eiuile 
Petitoi,  633  et  aeq. 

Canard  or  Duck  Portage,  Athabasca  dis- 
trict,  643 

Cani  Rocks,  from  the  Shoal  discovered  by 
Captain  6.  Jinmnn  and  Captnin  J.  Leuty 
(New  Maps),  752 

Cano,  Don  Baldomero,  referred  to  in 
Markham'a  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 
Amaru-mayu  and  tlie  Beni,  320 

Cunoe  river,  North  Ameriai,  645 

Canton,  people  of,  China,  454,  455 

Capangombe,  South-west  Africa,  461 

Cape  Delgado  Bay,  Journey  in  the  district 
west  of,  by  H.  E.  O'Neill,  393  et  seq. 

Cape  Verd  Islands,  over  the,  to  Sene- 
gambia,  by  Cornelia  Doelter(Ncw  Bouk»), 
744 

Caqueta  river,  353 

Carapari,  561 

Caravaya,  Bolivia,  314,  315 

ravines  of,  Bolivia,  322 

Curdinas,  Scfior,  340 

Cardoso,  Lieutenant  and  Dr.  Fr>mco,  ex- 
pedition to  Umzeila's  kraiil,  405 

expedition  to  Um- 
zeila's country,  33 

Caribou-eaters  ("  Ethen  eldeli ")  tribe,  651 

Lake,  Athabasca  district,  645 

Mountains,  rock  aalt  in  the,  637 

river,  Athabasca  district,  648 

Garicata  river,  Bolivia,  341 

Caripuna  Indiana,  the,  Bolivia,  319 

Carlisle,  W.,  674 

Carpenter,  Commander,  598 

Carr,  Dr.  Ward,  illneas  and  death  of,  274 

Carruthers,  Samuel  William,  Schools'  Prize 
Medal  awarded  to,  422 

Casement,  Lieutenant,  referred  to,  222 

Caspari,  M.,  236 

topographical  map  of  Tong- 

king  transmitted  to  Paris  Geographicul 
Society  by,  560 

Caspian  Sea,  level  of  the,  171 

Persian  porta  of  the,  122 

Catastcmus  reticutatus^  645 

Catherwood,  Mr.,  referred  to  in  Mauds- 
lay's  Explorations  in  Guatemala,  189 

Cauca  and  Nechf,  the  rivers,  253,  254 

river,  Colombia,  249, 250 

Caucasus  Mountains,  road  over  the,  171 

Notes  on  the  (New  Books),  742 

Cauldron  of  Ilell  Falls,  Madeira  river  344 

Caupolican  river,  tributary  of  river  Beni, 
Bolivia,  314 

Cavinaa,  Bolivia,  324 

Cazalet,  Edward,  Obituary  of,  388 

Cuzvin  toTtrhran.road  for  wheeled  vehicles 
from,  Persia,  121 

Ceballoa,  Senor,  487 

Cenis,  Mont,  554 


Ccphahphus  mergem.    South-west   Africa. 

464 
Ccriam-Laut  Islands,  Malay  Ardiipelago, 

47 
Cerro  Munchique,  vie>*'B  from  the  top  of 

the,  263 

Torrd  ridge,  Colombia,  255,  256 

Ceylon,  A  Visit   to,  by    Ernst  Haeckcl, 

translated  by  Clara  Bell  (New  Books), 

302 
by  Ernst  Haeckel  (Now  Books), 

49 
Map  of  the  Island  of  (Intelligence 

Branch.  War  Office)  (New  Maps).  184 
Chacha  settlement,  small    plantation    of 

cotton  trees  at,  3 
Cliacujal,  town  of.  GuatomaLi,  188 
Chaga  Platform,  the,  546,  547 
Chaguwari  Kwa  Majuni,  519 

village,  528 

Chahalnng,  people  on   left   bank  of  tho 

Kariin  river,  150 
Chahar-mahal  ilistrict,  Pirsia,  133,  145 
Ch»l-i-mort>h  Valley,  the,  16U 
C'hdlas  river,  Persia,  60,  61 
Chalchilian  Puss.  I'craia,  78 
ChaUenger,  the,  513 
Chnlmerd,  Mr.,  507 
Clwiman-i-Manga  to  Chardeh,  Lieut.-Col. 

Beresford  Lovett'a  Itinerary,  73 
Chambezi  river,  East  Central  Africa,  059, 

690 
Champain,  Col.  J.  U.  Bateraan,  130,  383 
ascent   of 

Mount  Demavend,  170 
On    the 

various    Means  of   Commuuiontion   be- 
tween Central  Persia  and  the  Sea,  121 

et  SL'q. 

•  remarks  on 


the  Itinerary  Notes  of  Route  Surveys  iu 
Northern  Persia  in  1881  and  1882,  169 

Chandrabagha  river,  the,  (i16 

Changlung  Burma  La,  615 

Chauner,  Lieutenant,  6U0 

Chao-hsi  Linff,  mausoleum  of  the  Empress 
of  T'ni  Tsung,  29 

Chapalba,  Manuel,  referred  to  in  Mark- 
ham's  paper  on  the  Ba.Miis  of  the 
Amaru-mayu  and  the  Beni,  319 

Chaperd  river,  Bulivia,  343 

Chapi  river,  Bolivia,  337 

Chaquitas,  river,  Bolivia,  340 

Charabamba,  Bolivia,  340 

Charak,  town  of,  Persia,  124 

Charbagh,  Persia,  74 

and  Aliabad,  Valley  of,  Persia, 

77 

Chardeh,  camp  near,  to  Ziamt-i-Kh-isnid,' 
Lieut. -Colonel  Beresford  Lovett'a  Itinu- 
rory,  74 

Chardeh  Valley,  Persia,  72 

Charkhaneh  hamlet,  Persia,  77 

Chamay,  M.  Desire,  referred  to,  201,  858 

' communication  on  tho 

monuments  of  Yucatan  and  Mexico, 
427 


762 


INDEX. 


Charnay,  M.    Desird,   on    the   age    and 

origin    of    tho    indigenous    American 

ciyilitiatiou,  44,  45 
on  tlie  Mountains  of 

Yuen  tun  and  the  country  of  tiie  Lacan- 

dons.  44 

-  organisation  of  an  ex- 


hibition at  the  Museum  of  the  Trocadero, 
175 
Charts,  New,  Aikniralty,  117,   310,  370, 
439,  631,  686,  751 

cancelled,  118,  311,  439.  632,  7.'il 

corrected,  119,  311,  439,  686,  751 

French  Hydrographic  (Depot  dcs 

Cartes.  &c.,  de  la  Marine),  311,  687 

United  States  Hydrographic,  55, 


119,  184,  312,  440.  687 

Unofficud,  56 

Chashmeh  Shahi  to    Khan    Lar    Khan, 

Lieut.-Col.  Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary, 

63 

— — Siah  Kaneh  spring,  Persia,  75 

■ —  Rosia  spring,  Persia,  69 

to    Kurrand,    Liout.  -  Colonel 


Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  70 

,  town  of,  defccribed,  Persia,  70 


Chatadhar  ridge,  616,  620.  624 

Chatak  village,  Persiu,  144 

ChatUlon,  624 

Chattarhcra  HidUmi,  150 

Glinvcz,  Captain  Jos^  Maria,  referred  to  in 

Markham's  paper  on  tlie  Basins  of  the 

Amaru-may u  and  the  Beni,  820 
Ch^mul-pho,  Corea,  277 
Chehar-Bonicheh  tribe,  Porsin,  714 
Chehlan,  Persia,  133 
Chella,  Sierra  de,  South- weiit  Africa,  459 
Chemen-i-Bid,  7 

ChCn-ning  in  Kwei-cLou,  China,  447 
Chenab  river,  616,  618,  620,  624 
Chering  Chitshuui,  Tibet,  665 
Gheshmeh-sebz  spring,  7 
Chetang,  488 
Chevoy,  Bolivia,  338 
Cheysson,  M.,  557 
Chi  Chou,  China,  23 
Chi  Yiin  Ho  (or  Chi  Chou  Grain  Transport 

river),  China,  23 
Chiamdo,  Tibet,  665.    See  also  Tsiamdo 
Chibchas  or  Muyscas  of  Colombia,  the,  266 
Chibiquas  tribe.  South-west  Afiica,  465 
Chichenitza,  centre,  Yucatan,  45 
Chico  Bapid,  Bolivia,  339 
Chieusella,  gorge  of  the,  622 
Chikishlar  to  Surakhs,  survey  of  country 

from,  392 
Children  or  "  Des  Enfants  "  river.  North 

America,  640 
Chili,  by  Le  Omto  Eugene  do  Kobiauo 

(New  Books),  49 
Cliiliia,  district  of.  East  Central  Africa,  585 
Chiluau  Island,  271 
Chimsaka's  village,  Africa,  395 
Chin-Sha-Chiang  river,  665  and  note 
China  in  some  of  its  Phybical  and  Social 

Aspects,  by  E.  Colboiue  B.iber,  441  et 


China,  map  of  a  Part  of  South-west  (Peter- 
mann's  Mittheilungen)  (New  Mapa),  116 

new  route  to,  through  Guschen  and 

Dumpier  Straits,  515 

population  of,  454 

probable  population  of,  443 

Bock,  coral  reefs,  508 

straits,  pretty  Boonery  of,  507 

sfirveys  of  coasts  of,  698 

-  trade  routes  to,  451 


Chinese  emigrants,  the,  448 

emperors,  burial-place  of  the,  2r> 

Southern,  on  the  Advance  of  the, 

by  Holt  S.  Hallett,  672 
Chini,  615 

Chino-Russian  frontier,  the,  4S0 
Chipewyan,  Fort,  Athabasca  district,  634, 

Catholic    Mission  near, 

612 


position  of,  644 

Smith,  and  Small  Red  River 

Forts,  number  of  inhabitants  of  the,  652, 

653 

-  Tinney,  Indians,  644, 648  et  *^. 


Chirmini  to  Qahu-i-rukh,  Captain  WclU' 
Itinerary  of  road  from,  145 

Ghispani  river,  Bolivia,  339 

Chitisi,  East  Africa,  691 

Chitral,  Mr.  McNair's  expedition  into, 
552 

Valley,  the,  720 

"  Chob-i-Siyah,"  blnck-wood,  Persia,  712 

Chobo,  tribes  on  the  conAuence  of  the, 
167 

Chong-kak,  the  **Bell  Kiosk,"  282 

Cljong-ro,  or  "  BeU  Roads,"  282 

Chor  axis,  the,  618 

peak  of  tl»e,  617 

Choroschchin,  M.,  map  of  tlie  Distribution 
of  the  Cossack  in  Russia  (Petcrmann's 
Mittheilungen)  (New  Maps^  309 

Chou  dynasty,  the,  673 

Christy,  Mr.,  remarks  on  C.  R.  Mark- 
ham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the  Amaru- 
mayu  and  the  Beni,  346 

Chrysd,  Across,  by  Archibald  R.  Oil- 
quhoun  (New  Books),  300 

Chrystal,  Professor,  594 

Chuba  river,  Patagonia,  84 

Chubut,  Chupat,  or  Chuba  colony,  Pata- 
gonia, 48 

Chumala-rhi  Mountains,  617 

Cliuucho  savages,  the,  316 

Chunchu  Muerto  Rapid,  Bolivia,  339 

Chupat,  colony  of,  Patagonia,  84 

river,  Patagonia,  89 

Church,  Colonel  G.  £.,  Report  on  Ecuador, 
351 

referred    to   in 

Markham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 
Amarn-mayu  and  the  Beni,  316,  323 

remarks  on  C.  B. 

Markbam's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 
Amaru-mayu  and  the  Beni,  342,  347 

Churchill  di-trict,  633 

Fort,  Athabasca  district,  651 


INDEX. 


763 


Cliurcliill  river,  North  America,  645,  648 
Churaguella,  Mount,  344 
Cicquel  Baoal  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
Cieza  do  Leon,  Don  Pedro  de,  266 
Cinchona  trees  from  the  head  of  tho  Cauca 

vaUey.  259,  260 
Gintra,  Pedro  de,  referred  to,  229 
Cisneros,  Francisco  Javier,  252 
railways    in 

coorseof  oonstractionin  Colombiaby,261 
Clark,  Commander  Bouverie  F.,  repurt  of, 

on  Easter  Island,  40 
Clarke,  Sir  Andrew,  Governor  of  Singn- 

pore,  46 
CLirke's  Rock  Mouutaiu,  rock  salt  in,  637 
Clavus,  Claudius,  177 
Clear  Lake,  North  America,  640 
Clear-water,  or  Little   Athabasca    river, 

635,636 
river,  puddiug-stono  near  the, 

638 
saline  »pring  near  the  con- 
fluence of  the,  637 
Climatic  Changes,  The,  of  later  Geolo^^cal 

Times,  by  J.  D.  Whitney  (New  Books), 

114 
Climatology,  Handbook  of,  by  Dr.  Julius 

Hann  (New  Books),  626 
Cloudy  Mountains,  New  Guinea,  507 
Clowey  river,  North  America,  729 
Coban,  town  of,  Guatemala,  191 
Coblenz,  map  of  the  Neighbourhood  of 

(New  Maps),  627 
Cobus  Lechcj  the,  467 
Cochabamlm,  Bolivia,  314 
Cochin  China  and  Tonkin,  map  of  (New 

Maps),  436 
CJontemporary.The,  by  Capt. 

A.  Bouinais  and  Professor  A.  Puulus 

(New  Books),  676 

—  French,  map  of  (New  Maps), 


375 
Cocks,  A.  II.,  603 

Heneagc,  378 

O)cochinchiu  villafjc,  Akim,  39 
Coghlan,  Staff-Commander,  597 
Cold  Lake,  Athabasca  district,  649 
Colin,  Dr.  Cb.,    photographic    views   of 

Senegal  of^  174 

progress  of,  360 

Collendina,  Parish  of.  Now  South  Wales 

Groverumunt  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Colliiison,    Vice-Admiral     Sir     Bichard, 

K.O.B.,  Obituary  of,  606,  734 
Colonian,  the,  Lolos  identified  with,  446 
Colombia,  direction  of  rivers  and  moun- 
tains in,  249 
F.  von    Schenck's  Journeys  in 

(Petermanu's     Mittheilungen)     (New 

Maps),  184,  438 

-  Mr.  White's  table  of  mean  tem- 


peratures in,  263,  264 

■  Notes  on  the  Central  Provinces 


of,  by  Robert  Blake  White,  249  et  seq. 
■  Southern,  elevated ,  table-lands 


of,  249 


-  the  minerals  of,  267 


Colombia,  the  United  States  of,  by  Bicardo 
S.  Pereira  (Now  Books),  306 

C!olquhoun,  Archibald,  382 

Across  Chryse  (New 

Book:}),  300 

referred  to,  in  Col- 
borne  Baber's  paper  on  China  in  some  of 
its  Physical  and  Social  Aspects,  453 

-  remarks  on  Colborne 


Baber^s  paper  on  China  in  some  of  its 

Physical  and  Social  Aspects,  456 
Colton's  map,  referred  to,  840 
Coluguape,    Lake,    or    Coolu-Huape,    or 

Dillon,  Patagonia,  86 
Colvillo  Region,  map  of,  Northern  Trans- 
continental Survey  (New  Maps),  630 
Commandant's  Drift,  South-west  Africa, 

463 
Compass  La,  615 
Concepcion,  indiarubber  clearing,  Bolivia, 

330 
(bonder,  Captain,  and  (Taptain  Kitchener, 

The  Survev  of  Western  Palestine  (New 

Books).  304 
Claude  Beignier,  Heth  and  Moab 

(New  Books),  7*2 
Congo  Basin,  population  of,  709 
district,  vegetation  and  animals  of 

the,  286,  287 

region,  flora  and  fauna  of,  704 

Portuguese    boundaries    in 

the,  228 

river.  West  Africa,  229,  483 

A    Visit    to    Mr.    Stanley's 

Stations  on  the,  by  H.  H.  Johnston,  569 

et  seq.,  667 

-colour    and    temperature   of 


water  of,  6^4 

domestic  animals  of  the,  708 

from  its   Mouth  to  BiSlobo, 


by  H.  H.  Johnston,  692  et  seq. 

—  Four  Years  on  the,  by  Charles 


Jeannest  (New  Books),  567 

-  native  villages  on  the  south 


side  of  the.  West  Africa,  570 

—  recent  news  from  the,  West 


Central  Africa,  605 

— —  the  geography   of  the,  Herr 

Pechuel-Loesche's  description  of  the,  286 
tribes  encountered  on    the, 


706 


•  tributaries  of  the,  287 


to  the  Niger,  M.  Flcgel's  projected 

expedition  from  the,  659 
Conti,   Nicolb   de',    the    Travels   of,    by 

Yiucenzo  BoUemo  (Now  Books),  433 
Cook,  Mount,  New  Zealand,  604 
Cooley,  William  Desborough,  Obituary  of, 

232 
Coolu-Huapc,   or    Coluguape    Lake,    or 

Dillon,  Patagonia,  86 
Coombs,  Lieut,  600 
Cooper,   Mr.,  referred  to  by  Sir  Thomas 

Wade,  456 
Coote,  Walter,  the  Western  Pacific  (New 

Books),  746 
Copan,  ruins  of,  described,  Guatemala,  189 


764 


INDEX. 


Copenhagen,  Geographical  Society  of,  Pro- 

ceedingd  uf,  December  5th,  1882, 107 

Fifth  Meeting,  5G2 

Copper  river,  North  America,  728 
Coppermino  river.  North  America,  652, 728 
Cordillera,  pine  woods  and  oak  forests  of, 

Gnatemala,  190 
the,  of  North  America,  see  (New 

Books)  114 
Corea,  A  Visit  to,  in  1882,  by  J.  C.  Hall, 

274  et  seq. 

'-  and  Japan,  relations  between,  238 

map  of,  by  B.  Hasseni>tein  (Peter- 

mann's  Mittheilungen)  (New  Blaps),  ()28 
mnp  of,  (M)rrected  by  Mr.  Koudo- 


Makoto  (New  Maps),  5U8' 

surveys  of  the  coasts  of,  386,  597, 598 

total  population  and  revenue  of,  284 

West  (3oast,  difficulties  of  approach- 
ing tl'ie.  275 

Corean  magazines  nnd  their  wares,  282 

'  village,  Buddhist  temple  near  the, 

277 

Coreansnnd  Japanese,  comparison  between 
the,  276 

Coregonus  lucidus,  645 

Cornice  Pass,  the,  55 1 

O>roca  river.  South-west  Africa,  459 

Coroico,  ravine  of,  Bolivii,  323 

Cortambert,  M.,  175 

Bichard,  maps  of  Japan,  429 

Curte-Real,  the,  and  their  Voyages  to  the 
New  World,  by  Henry  Harrisse  (New 
Books),  678 

Corte'z,  Heman,  referred  to  in  Maudslay's 
Explorations  in  Guatemala,  188 

Coricin,  Cruise  of  the  (New  Books),  746 

Cosiguina  volcano,  Ceutral  America,  670 

CosSipata,  estate  of,  Bolivia,  320 

Costa  Leal,  Fernando  da,  journey  of,  re- 
ferred to,  468 

river,  or  Great  Bassom,  229 

Cotteau,  Edmond,  From  Paris  to  Japan,  by 
waiy  of  Siberia  (Now  Books).  301 

Council  of  B.  G.  S.,  Annual  Beport  of  the, 
411 

Chowan,  William  Deans,  announcement  of 
the  Murciiidon  Grant  awarded  to,  297, 
422 

Crazy  Mountains,  map  of  (Northern  Trans- 
cuutineutal  Survey)  (New  Maps),  630 

Crees,  the  North  Amtricau  Indians,  649 
et  seq. 

Crdmazy,  Laurent,  Notes  on  Madagascar 
(New  Books),  678 

Crevaux,  Dr.,  385.  429 

Jules,  Bivers  of  South  Ame- 
rica (New  Maps),  309 

•  Voyages    dans   TAmc- 


riqne  du  Sud(New  liooks),  113 

Expedition,  the,  4b6 

■  Mission,  the,  496 


Croche  or  Siuuous  Bapid,  Athabasca  river, 

637 
Croix,  J.  Errington  de  la,  The  Mines  of 

the  Stite  of  Pcrak  (New  Books),  3U1 
M.  de  la,  referred  to,  104,737 


Cross  Oipe,  662 

Isle  Lake,  Athabasca  district,  649 

Crow,  Arthur  H.,  Highways  and  Byeways 

in  Japan  (New  Books),  241 
Crown  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
Crowther,  CSape,  Franz-Josef  Land.  205 
Crozols,  J.  de,  Les  Peulbs  (New  Books),371 
Crying  river  ('•  Kitou  Sipi  *').  635 
Cumberland  Sound,  Germaa  Meteorologi- 
cal Station  at,  378 
Cumming,  C.  F.  Gordon,  Fire  Fonntaioi; 
the  Kingdom  of  Hawaii,  its  Volcanoe*, 
and  the  History  of  its  Miasions  (New 
Books),  114 
Cunen^  river,  S.W.  Africa,  467,  660,  696 

A  Journey  from  Moesamedes 

to  the,  by  the  Earl  of  Mayo,  458  et  $eq. 
Cust,  R.  N.,  remarks  on  A  Visit  to  the 
MAsai  people  living  beyond  the  border* 
of  the  Ngurn  country,  542 
Cuzco,  Peru,  315-327 
Cyrtina  kamiltonensis,  639 
umbraculosa,  639 

D. 

D'Abbadie,  M.  Antoine,  426,  429,  561 

Dafla  Hills,  Gl7, 620 

Dagua  river,  261 

D'Aguiar,  Profedsor  A.  A.,  557 

Dahlgren,  E.  W.,  47,  177,  496 

Dakar  to  St.  Louis,  railway  from,  37 

D'Albertis,  Mr.,  505,  516,  731 

Dalen,  Lieutenant,  661 

Dalichai  river,  Persia,  64,  66 

Daliki,  Persiit,  152 

Dalingkote,  620 

Dallman}()aptain,  177,  555 

Daly,  D.  D.,  travels  in  Malay  Peninsula,  3S2 

Dalwas  Peak,  616 

Daman-i-koh  range,  6 

Damara-land,  South  Africa,  660 

Damavand.  Mount,  169,  170 

Damfa,  country  of,  361 

Dampier  Island,  volcano  of,  511 

Straits,    new    routo     to   China 

through,  515 
Dande  river,  Africa,  268,  692 
Dangi,  Nguru  chief,  521,  523,  525 
Danish  Arctic  Expedition,  the,  166 
Polar  Meteorological  Expedition, 

166 
Dunubian    Populations,    the,    by     Leon 

Prunol  de  Bosny  (New  Books),  182 
Dar-os-Salaam,  Mr.  Mackinnou'sroad  from, 

542 
Daria  village.  Persia,  139 
Darbel,  M.  Marin,  referred  to,  741 
Darjiling,  616,  620 
Darwin,  Port,  longitude  of,  by  C.  E.  Puck, 

488 
Dasht-i-Arjati,  Persia,  152 
Dasht-i-Arzan  Khan,  Persia,  716 
Dasht-i-Ber,  the,  153 
Dasht-i-khak,  village  of,  Persia,  142 
Disht-i-Nazir,  village,  Persia,  61 
Dashti,  the,  714 


INDEX. 


766 


Dashtistan,  Persia.  716 

Dau-kala,  small  ruined  fort,  5 

Danlat-abod,  3 

Diiuphiny,  Society  for  Tourists  in,  Paris 

St-otioD  of,  298 
David  Island,  Franz-.Tosef  Land,  205 
Dawaou,  Captain  H.  P.,  grants  of  instm- 

menis  to,  415 

C!omniander  L.  8.,  600 

De  Long,  Ck>inmander,  narratiye  of  journey 

of,  by  Mrs.  De  Long,  879 
Ship  and  Ice  J<»ur- 

nals  of.  The  Voyage  of  the  Jeannette  (New 

Books),  747 
De  Robiano,  Le  Gomte  Engine,  Chili  (New 

Books),  49 
Dead  Men's  Isle,  North  America,  650 
Deception  Poiut,  511 
Decken,  Baron  von  der,  379 
Deer  river.  North  America,.645 
Deh-i-<liz  to  Gk>d-i-Balutak,  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  148 
Deh-koreyseh  to  Behbehnn.  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  159 
Deh-Murt,  village,  Persia,  142 
Dehi  spring,  Persia,  81 
Dehna-der-bend,  11 
Dc'iehmann,  L.,  map  of  Harzgebirge  (New 

Maps),  435 
Delagoik  Bay,  surveys  of,  595 
Delanneau,  C^tain,  cummunication  on  the 

Itanmako  country,  427 
Dolesse,  M.,  297 
Delisle,  Dr.,  560,  737 
Demavend,  Mount,  169 
Dempo,  Mount,  408 
Denmark,  A  Handbook  for  Travellers  in, 

John  Murray  (New  Books),  504 
Denton,  Professor,  656 
Deosai,  Plateau  of,  615 
Depelchin,  Pere,  on  the  native  tribes  of  the 

Zambesi,  167 
Dcpping,  M-  G.,    communication    of  li. 

Petit's  Journey  in  Western  Africa,  175 
Dera  Ismail  Khan  Peak,  720 
Derrien,  Commander,  medal  awarded  to, 

by  Paris  Geographical  Society,  358 

Mission,  the  object  of  the,  859 

•*  Des  Enlants,"  or  Children  river,  North 

America,  640 
Des  Seina,  or  Yellow-knives  river.  North 

America,  616,  617 
Desbordes,  M.,  progress  of  journey,  44 
•♦  Desht-i-Safiddar,"  the  Plain  of  Poplars, 

Persia,  714 
Dcsjardins,  M.  Ernest,  on  the  ancient  town 

of  Zamu,  298 
Deyra  Dhun,  620 

Dhauladhar  ridge,  616,  617,  620,  624 
Diiarmsala,  616 
Dhoobri,  617,  619 
Dhurumsala,  620 
Di-Chu  river,  665 
Dickert,  L.,  Belief-map  of  Central  Europe 

(New  Maps),  627 
Dickson  Haven,  failure  to  found  a  Dutch 

Meteorological  Station  at,  878 


Dickson,  Oscar,  166 

letter  from,  on  the  sup- 
posed ancient  map  discovered  by  Biiron 
Nordenskiold,  556 

munificence    and    giK>d 


works  of,  562,  563 

-  referred  to,  231 

■  Port,  177 


Didessa  river,  Abyssinia.  552 
Diedenhofen,  map  of  the  Neighbourhood  of 

(New  Maps).  51 
Dihong  river,  487 
Dijmphna  and  the  Vama^  probabilities  of 

fate  of  the,  556 

Expedition,  6G0 

the  exploring  vessel,  176,  177, 

848,  378,  879,  603,  733 

-  the,  in  the  Kara  Sea,  166 


Dil-Gusha,  Southern  Persia,  138 

Dillon,  (Toluguape,  or  Ck>olu-Huape  Lake, 

Patagonia,  86 
Dinawau  Bay,  Borneo,  600 
Dinner  Island,  China  Straits,  507 
Dipsang  Pkin,  615 
Dir,  BahmatuUa,  Khan  of,  552 
Disco  Island,  364 
Dixon,  Lieutenant,  597 
Dizful,  Persia,  126, 127 

town  and  river,  154 

to  Qouneg.  Gawnek,  or  Koonak, 

Captain  Wells*  Itinerary  of  road  from,  155 
Djambi  Sultanate,  657 
Djulfa  to  Pul-i-wargan,  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  144 
Do-gumbaz£n    to  Basht,  Captain  WelL* 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  160 
Do&b,  the,  junction  of  two  streams,  Persia, 
•    78 

Dobeh  village,  Persia,  139 
Doelter,   Cornclis,  Over  the  Cape  Verd 

Islands  to  Sencgambia  (New  Books), 

744 
Doengo  Erok  el  Kaptei  Mountain,  547 
Dog-rib  Indiana,  Athabasca  district,  619 

650 
Dogarou,  10 

Dogs  river.  North  America,  648 
Dome  d'Ossoln,  621 
Donabugu,  739 
Donop,  Mr.  L.  B.  von,  travels  of,  in  North 

Borneo,  350 
Dopulao,  geological  furmation  of  cliffs  at, 

149 
to  Hilisat,  Captain  Wells'  Itine- 
rary of  road  from,  147 
Dora  Baltea,  valley  of  the,  622 
D'Orbijjny,  M.,  343 
Dorbold,  town  of,  238 
Douai,  Geographical  Union  of  the  North  of 

France  at,  427 
Dover  CliflGj,  Stanley  Pool,  West  Africa, 

575, 577 
Drake,  Sir  Francis,  and  the   Falcon  of 

Gold,  407 
Dras,  615,  619 
Drummond,   Mr.    Henry,    expedition    to 

Lakes  Nyassa  and  Tanganyika,  405 


766 


INDEXi 


Du  Portail  Island,  511 

Dubea,  Baron  von,  362 

Daok  Portage,  Athabasca  district,  C43, 64C 

Dudatoli  Peak,  617 

Duglas  Inlet,  599 

Duke,  Sorgeon-Major  O.  T.,  An  Historical 

and  descriptive  Report  on  the  Districts 

of  Thai  -  Chotiali  and   Hamai   (New 

Books),  677 
Dukhter  Kotul,  Persia,  152 
Dumeresq  or  Severn  river,  Queensland, 

101 
Dwogiri  Mount,  604 
Duncan,  Mrs.,  death  of,  692 
Dunvegan  and  Battle  Forts,  number  of 

inhabitants,  652,  653 
Duparquet,  Pere,  462,  466 
Dumford,  Henry,  Explorations  in  Central 

Patagonia,  84  et  seq. 
Durrand,  Captain,  referred  to,  714 
D'Urville,  Point,  New  Guinea,  513 
Dushak  or  Chardeh  settlement,  Atak,  2 
Dushman-Zeari  Lars,  the,  162 
Dutch  Arctic  Committee,  members  of,  348 
Expedition,  departure  of  the, 

1883,  348 
Expedition  of  1882  (Now  Books), 

499 

Polar  Meteorological  Expedition, 


166 


Duvevricr,  M.  H.,  communication  from 
North  Africa.  428 


E. 

East  Cape  to  Huon  Gulf,  coast-line  from, 

509 
Easter   Island,  by  Commander    Geiseler 

(New  Books),  371 

present  state  of,  40 

Eastwiok,  E.B.,  Handbook  of  the  Pun- 
jab (Now  Books),  743 
Ecuador,  geography  and  topography  of, 

351,  352 
Edkins,  Dr.,  referred  to  in  connection  with 

the    stone    figures    at    the    Imperial 

Mausolea,  China,  28 
Edwin-Arnold  river,  Africa,  700 
Eelbeygi,  the,  Eeliaut  chief,  133 
Eeliaut  encampments,  Persia,  133 
Een,  Captain  T.  C,  362 
Egg  river,  Athabasca  district,  640,  641, 

642 
Eggwinassie  village,  Akim,  39 
Egil,  Persia,  59 
Egypt,  map  of,  D^pot  do  la  Guerre,  Paris 

CNew  Maps),  55 

Middle  (New  Maps),  504 

portions    of    Middle    and 

Upper  (New  Maps),  629 
Egyptian  Sfiilan,  map  of  the  (New  Maps), 

629 
Eichthal,  M.  Guatave  d*,  referred  to,  741 
Eira  Bay,  662 

Harbour,  Franz-Josef  Land,  205 

Eira,  loss  of  the,  206 


Eira  Search  and  Belief  (Committee,  mem- 
bers of,  223 

Second  Journey  of  the,  to  Franz- 
Josef  Land,  204  ct  ^cf. 

Ekamba,  village  of.  South-west  Africa, 
468 

£1  Oastigo,  abundant  vegetation  at,  259 

El  Remate,  town  of,  Guatemala,  192 

El-Ruweyhan,  Persia,  716 

El-Sakkan  river,  Persia,  716 

El  Salto,  Colombia,  259 

El-Simakan,  Persia,  716 

Elals  guineSnsis,  West  Africa,  705 

Elanget^i,  chief,  525 

ElbuTZ  Mountains,  171 

Ekeagnus  argentca,  639 

Eleiduruba  village,  523 

Eleiguruba  chief,  525,  52C 

Elfving,  Consul  N.  A.,  178 

Elk,  or  Athabqsca  river,  635 

Elliot,  Oiiptain,  refierrcd  to,  710 

Elsass-Lothringcn,  sketch-map  of  (New 
Maps),  51 

Elton,  Consul,  403 

Embarras  river,  640 

Embati  tribe,  34 

Emin-Bey,  Dr.,  Original  Map  of  the 
Travels  of  (New  Maps),  750 

Enaporera  river,  Bolivia,  328 

Encitnada  de  Bala  Mountain,  Bolivia.  '.ViG 

Iniqua  Mountains,    Bolivia, 

338 

Veniqui,  Bolivia,  340 

Veo  precipices,  Bolivia,  •'JST 

Engamor,  valley  of,  Persia,  66 

England,  surveys  of  west  coast  of,  591 

English  river  district.  North  America, 
633    "» 

or  Missi-Nipi,  649,  630 

trade  in  tbe  South  of  Persia,  134 

Engobitoy  dress  of  tlie  Masai  chiefs,  529 

Erebus,  Mount,  418 

EricksQord,  295 

Erickson,  Albert,  referred  to  by  the  Earl 
of  Mayo,  465 

Axel,  referred  to  by  the  Earl 

of  Mayo,  465,  466,  472 

Erickson's  Camp  on  Sierra  do  Cbella, 
South-west  Africa,  461 

Erskine,  St.  Vincent,  journey  along  and 
map  of  the  Sabi  river,  271 

Erslev,  Professor  Ed.,  on  Swedish  North 
Polar  Expeditions,  562 

Erythronium  dena-canis,  639 

Escheker,  orEshikie  Islands,  Malay  Archi- 
pelago, 47    • 

Escobar,  Pedro  d',  229 

Eskimo,  Lake  of  the.  North  America,  64G 

Esox  estor,  645 

Espinar,  Colonel,  referred  to  in  Mark- 
ham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 
Amam-mayu  and  the  Beni,  317,  320' 

Estella,  Raimondo,  referred  to  in  Mark- 
ham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 
Amaru-mayn  and  the  Beni,  319 

Etienne,  Pi^re,  referred  to;  238 

Eudara,  Don  Fidel,  329 


INDEX. 


7G7 


Endara,  Scfior  and  Mrs.,  referred  to   in 

3farkbani'8  paper  on  the  Ba!>ins  of  tlio 

Amara-mayu  and  the  Beni,  1<24 

Euphrates  Valley  Railway,  the,  130 

Europe,  Central,  map  of  ^New  Maps).  568 

■  new  sketch-map  of  (New 


Maps),  683 


Diokert  (New  Maps),  627 


relief-map    of,    by    L. 


(New 

map  of  the  Northern 
Ountries  of,  discovered  by  Baron  Nor- 
denskiold,  29.5 

and  North  America,  The  Ilori- 


Maps),  308 
MS. 


zontal  Configuration  and  Composition 
of,  by  Valentin  Ullrich  (New  Books), 
373 

-  Physical  Atlas  of  (New  Atlases), 


120 


—  School  Wall-map  of,  by  V.  Haardt 
(New  Maps),  752 
European  area,  roiocene  of,  621 
Evans,  Capt.  Sir  Frederick  J.  O.,  Beport 
on  Admiralty  Surveys    for    the    vear 
1^82,  593 

■  Summary  of 

Admiralty  Surveys,  1882,  386 
-  John,  47 


Evening  Meetings,  R.  G.  S.,  Beport  of, 
November  27th,  1882,  42 

December  11th,  1882,  42 

January  15th,  1883, 102 

January  29tl),  1883,  Ifili 

February  12th,  1883,  172 

February  26th,  1883,  234 

March  12th.  1883,  235 


April  9th,  1883,  296 

April  23rd,  1883, 290 

M!ay  7th,  1883,  410 

June  11th,  1883,  410 

June  25th,  1883,  494 

November  12th,  1883,  729 

Exaltacion.  Bolivia,  326,  334 

inhabitants  of,  347 

Examinations,    Puhlio    8cho<;ls' 
notices  of  the,  168 


of,  290 


Prizes, 
results 


P. 


FjimoE  ISLAJIDS,  725 

Fahlvun  river,  Ab-i-shur,  or  Budyan,  161, 
l(i2 

Faidherbe,  General,  36 

Firnduy,  the,  600 

Farewell,  Cape,  363,  364 

Farler,  Archdeacon,  380 

remarks  on  A  Visit  to 

the  Masai  people  living  beyond  tlie  bor- 
ders of  the  Nguru  country,  540 

Farlow,  Sydney  Charles,  Schools'  Prize 
Mtdal  awarded  to,  422 

Furs,  cities  of,  Persia,  715 

Fawn,  surveying  ship,  387,  593 

Felis  macrocetis,  or  clouded  tiger,  in  the 
Borneo  forests,  95 


Fettfj-shni  wall  round  the  Imperial  Mau- 
solea,  24  arut  note,  27 

Fernandez,  Fraiio  Padre  Louis,  337 

Fcrnfto  Vaz  river,  229 

F«?tterraaii.  3Ir.,  referred  to,  335,  341 

Figueira,  Father  Jose',  referred  to  in  Mark- 
ham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  tho 
Amaru-raayu  and  tho  Beni,  323 

Fiji  liilands,  surveys  of  coasts  of,  599 

Filiastru^,  (Dardinul  Guiliclmus,  177 

Filloir,  Mr.,  referred  to.  692 

Finance  Committee  of  the  R.  G.  S.  Council, 
Auditors'  Report,  411,  414  * 

Finisterro  Mountains,  Now  Guinea,  509. 
510 

Firmin-Didnt,  M.  Alfred,  173 

Finiskuli.  Persin,  58 

Plateau,  Persia,  67 

to  Clia^hmeh  Kabud,  Lieut-Col. 

Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  68 

Firuzkuh,  city  of,  172 

Fischer,  Dr.,  of  the  German  Expedition  to 
Mount  Kilimanjaro,  32 

progress  of  expe<lition  in  East 

Central  Africa,  380,  428,  478,  558.  iioii, 
730 

referred  to,  103,  476 

return  o!,  to  Zanzibar,  604 

route  in  Africa,  .544 


BMtzroy  river.  North-west  Au^t^a1ia,  722 
Flamini  Island,  West  Africa,  702 
Flegel,  E.  R.,   expedition    to   the    rivtr 
Benue,  551,  731 

M„  projected  expedition  from  tl:c 

Congo  to  the  Niger,  659 

M.  Robert,  travels  of,  360 

Robert    Ed.,    Vorlauflge    Karten- 

skizzo    der    Gegenden    im   Suden  des 
Benue     (Petermann's     Mittheilungen) 
(New  Maps),  504 
Flemish  Cap  Bank.  601 
Flonting-wood   ("TtHlli    dedh-lieli   i'n6'') 

Lake,  North  America,  647 
Flora,  Cape,  Franz-Jusef  Land,  206,  211 

departure  of  the  crow  of  the 

Eira  from,  Franz- Josof  Land,  211 

winterut,  Franz-Jo«?f  Land,2!  t 

Flores,  town  of,  Guatemala,  191 

Floyer,  Ernest,  referred  to  in  connection 

with  the  roads  in  Persin,  124 
Fly  river,  delta  of  the,  const  by  the.  500 
FlyiiPf  Fish,  surveying  hhip,  275,  593 
Fond-du-Lac,  Fort,  numlxr  of  inliabitants 
of,  652, 653 

river,    Athabasca   district, 

645 
"  Foiids  des  Voyages,"   proposal  for  the 

restoration  of  tho,  44 
Fontaine,  M.  Marius,  ♦*  L'Hisfoire  Univcr- 

selle,"  43 
Foot,  Captain  C.  E.,  British  Consul    at 
Lake  Nya^sa,  659,  730 

— ^   remarks  on  a  vicit 

to  tho  MasiU  people  living,  beyond  the 
borders  of  the  Nguru  country,  541 
Forbes,    H.,   projected    scientific  expedi- 
tion to  Mount  Owen  Stanley,  408 


768 


INDEX. 


Forbes,  H.  O.,  travels  in  the  Eastern  Archi- 
pelago, 656, 657 
Litton,  notes  on  tho  territory  of 

Arizona,  667 
Forks  Fort,  636 
Formosa,    map  of  North,  sarreyed    and 

dmwn  by  J.  W.  Paterson  (New  Maps), 

54 
North,  On,  by  William  Hancock, 

674 
Forrest,  Alexander,  referred  to,  722 
■  John,  explorations  in  North-west 

iftistralia,  722 
Tota  La,  615 
Four  Forks  Channel,  Athabasca  district, 

641.  642 
Fraas,  Dr^  675 
France,  M.  E.  Guillcmin's  relievo-mnp  of, 

175 

Geological  map  of  (New  Maps), 


183 


•  map  of  (New  Mnps),  683 

•  by  order  of  the  Minister  of 


the  Interior  (Now  Maps),  435 

Frencii  Railroads,  by   L. 

Thuillier  (New  Maps),  627 

tho  North-east  Frontier  of 


(New  Maps),  627 
Franco,   Dr.,    expedition    to    Umzeila's 

country,  33 
Franklin,  Sir  John,  visit  to  Lake  Atlia- 

basta,  648 
Franktown,  Wtst  Africa,  711 
Franz-Josef  Land,  221,  222 
Second  Voyage  of  tho 

IJira  to,  204  ct  seq. 
French  Hydrograpliic  Charts  (Depot  des 

Cartes,  &c.,  de  la  Marine)  (New  Maps), 

311,  687 

Meteorological    Mission  to  C.ipe 

Horn,  560,  562 

stations  in  Africa  transferred  to 

the  Frencli  Grovemment,  43 

Frcre,  Sir  Bartle,  remarks  on  tho  Earl  of 
Mavo's  paper  on  a  Journey  from  Mossa- 
medes  to  the  River  Cunene',  471 

remarks  on  ^L  P.  M, 

Lessar's  Second  Journey  in  tho  Turko- 
man CJountry— Askabad  to  Ghuriau, 
near  Herat,  21 

Town,  Africa,  544 

Froshfield,  Douglas,  on  tlie  Pass  of 
Hatmibal,  in  the  Alps,  553 

Frt-im,  the,  602 

Fieytag,  G.,  Tourist  Map  of  Lower  Austria 
Gronzgebirge  (New  3Inps),  568 

Friday  Island,  New  Guinea,  517 

Fri(;d,  Franz,  General  Map  of  Germany 
(Now  Maps),  600  _ 

Flies,  Commander,  176 

Frislanda,  725 

Frobisiier,  Joseph,  648,  051 

Frog  Portage,  Athabasca  district,  649 

Fu-Ch'iian  SaA,  liot  mineral  spring  at  the 
temple  o(,  China,  31 

Fuchs,  M.  Edmond,  237 

Fuego,  volcano  of,  Guatemala,  190,  070 


Fulhnd  Mahnia  to  Pishirt,  Lient-Colooel 

Berestbrd  Lovett's  Itinerary,  71 
Futu,  chief.  East  Central  AMca,  591 


G. 

Gaffarex,  Paul,  L'AIg^rie,  Histoire,  (3on- 
nndte  et  Colonisation  (New  Books),  112 
Ga1iipa<;08  Islands,  354 
Gallieni    and     Derrien     MiasioDS,    {^d 
medals  awarded  to  the,  by  tlie  Paris 
phical  Society,  174 
captain,  work  on  the  Niger,  36 
Commander,  medal   awarded  to^ 
by  Paris  Geographical  Society,  358 
•  Mission,  referred  to,  359 


Gcogroph 
(Jai 


Galton,  Francis,  remarks  on  the  Earl 
of  Mayo' 8  paper  on  a  Jonmey  from 
Mossamedcs  to  the  river  Cun^n^  470 

remarks  on  H.  H.  John- 
ston's paper,  711 


remarks  on  the  presen- 
tation of  the  Public  Schools'  Prize 
Medals,  422,  423 

Gambos  fort,  South-west  Africa,  464 

Gamcl,  Augustin,  603,  660 

M.,  Lieutenant  Hoveaord's  ex- 
pedition provided  for  at  the  expense 
of,  378 

Gananeh,  Africa,  717 

Ganboma  or  Garboma  river,  298 

Ganchu,  river  Ciongo,  West  Africa,  577 

Gangot-rhi  Peak,  615 

Garchethol,  615 

Garcia-y-Garcia,  SeBor,  266 

Garm  Dasht  Valley,  Persia,  76 

Garmub  Pass,  difHoolties  of  xood-moking 
through  the,  6 

Garo  Hills,  617.  619,  620 

Gast,  Lake,  Western  Tsaidam,  552 

Gaudet,  C.  P.,  648 

Gaurroy,  M.,  173 

Gauthiot,  M.  Ch.,  news  from  Senegal  com- 
municated by,  175 

Gautier,  M.  A.,  173 

Gawars,  Russian  boundary,  2 

Gawler,  Colonel  J.  C,  Obituary  of,  388 

Gayas  Bay,  Borneo,  600 

Gazella  euchore^  found  near  Mossamedcs, 
South-west  Africa,  460 

Gazelle  Peninsula,  511 

Geelvink,  Bay  of,  New  Guinea,  516 

Gecr,  Baron  G.  de,  geological  expedition 
of,  107 

Geiselcr,  Commander,  Easter  Island  (New 
Books),  371 

Geledi,  Gualidi  or  Jilledy,  Africa,  717 

Geloger,  Persia,  140 

General  Villegaa  Pass,  722 

Gencvre,  Mont,  Pass,  554 

Geographical  Congress,  the  Third  German, 
43 

documents  preserved  in  tlie 

National  Library  (New  AtlasesX  120 

Exhibition    at   Brest,  429, 


430 


INDfeX. 


769 


Ckographical  Exhibition  at  the  Gongrcra 
of  the  French  Association  for  Advance- 
ment of  Scienci',  at  Douai,  427 

'■  Names,  Foreign,  the  trans- 

cription and  Pronunciation  of,byEdouurd 
deXiUze  (New  Books),  567 

Geography,  Modern,  Manunl  Atlas  of  (Now 
Maps),  312 

National    Institute    of,    at 

Brussels,  297 

Geok-tepeh,  the  fall  of,  1 

town,  13 

Geological  Times,  the  Climatic  Changes  of 
Later,  by  J.  D.  Wliitriey  (New  Books), 
114 

Gerdan-i-rukh,  or  Pass  of  Rukli,  145 

Gerdan-i-Zerre  Pass,  146 

Gerdineh  Govpyseh  Pass,  Persia,  144 

CJerger  or  Kaiair  Band  stream,  155 

German  African  Society's  expeditions  in 
the  basin  of  the  Niger,  551 

East  African  expedition,  progress 

of  the,  551 

■  Empire  and  Neighbonring  Coun- 


tries, by  Dr.  H.  Wagner  (New  Maps), 
183 

Geographical    Lexicon  of 

the,  by  Gustav  Neumann  (New  Books), 
498 

map  of  the  (New  Maps), 


51, 183,  683 

-  explorers  of  West  Central  Africa, 


-  Geographical  Congress,  tlie  Third, 


381 


arrangements  of  the,  43 
Geographical    Society,    new,    at 

Greifswald,  721 
Germania,  the  steamer,  555 
(Jermano,  Josd  MuriH,  163 
Germany.  General  Map  of,  bv  Franz  Fried, 

(New  Maps),  500 

Wall-map  of,  by  A.  Petermann 


(New  Mtips),  183 


by   K.    Bamberg 


(New  Maps),  56 
Gerreh,  Mount,  146,  148 
Gertrude,  (Dape,  Franz-Josef  Land,  216 
Gervais,  Commander,  560 
Geum  8(rictum^  639 
Ghazal  river,  483 
Ghuri^n  to  Mash-had,  rond  from,  8 
Ghiizor  Turkomans,  the,  15  mte 
Gibbon,  Lieut.,  explorer  of  the  Chapare 

river,  343 

referreil  to,  818 

Giglioli,  Professor,  489 

Gilder,  Mr..  379 

W.  H.  Icc-Pack  and  Tundra  (New 

Books),  307 
GildMsa,  365 
Gill,  Captain,  453 
• quoted  in  reference  to  the 

Imperial  Mausolea  east  of  Peking,  23 
letter  from,  on  the    Upper 

SalwcD,  or  Ln-tze-kiang  river,  664 
Gilmour,  Rev.  James,  Among  the  Mongols 

(New  Books),  367 

No.  XU^DBa  1883.] 


Giraril,  B..  Souvenirs  of  an  Expedition  to 

Tunis  (New  Books),  678 

M.  Jules,  560 

Giraud,  M.,  referred  to,  103,  238,  382,  690 

note 
M.  v.,  expedition  in  East  Africa, 

428 
Giraul,  South-west  Africa,  460 
Gladycheff,  M.,  19,  561 
Glaisher,  James,  675 
Glorioso  Islands,  597 
Gloucester,  Cape,  New  Britain,  volcanos 

of,  511  • 

Gobo  tribe.  Central  Africa,  483 
Gobrons  tribe,  Afiicn,  717,  718 
God-i-Balutak  to  Mal-i-mir,  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from.  149 
Godar  Balatak.  Persia,  133 
God  win- Austen,   Lieut.-Ckilonel    H.    H., 

Address  as  President  of  tlie  Googzaphiciil 

Section  of  the  British  Amociation,  610 

et  seq. 
Gohring,  Selior  Germain,  referred  to  in 

Markham's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 

Amaru-may  u  and  the  Beni,  320 
(k)ld,  its  Occurrence  and  Extraction,  by 

Alfred  G.  Lock  (New  Books),  50 

rich  produce  of  in  Colombia,  254 

• richness  of  in  Aguna  and  Western 

Akim,  37 

Coast,  inland  topography,  37 

to  the,  for  Gold,  oy  Burton  and 

Cameron  (New  Books),  111 
fields  of  South  Africa,  a  Guide  to 

the,  by  W.  Henry  Penning  (New  Books), 

498 
Golden  Chersonese,    The,  and    the  Way 

Thither,   by    Isabella    L.    Bird   (Mrs. 

Bishop)  (New  B(X)ks),  300 
GoMie,  Mr..  357,  509 
Goldsmid,  General  Sir  Frederic,  remarks 

on  the  Itinerary  Notes  of  Boute  Surveys 

in  Northern  Persia  m  1881  and  1882, 171 
renwrks 

on  the  various  means  of  communication 

between  Central  Persia  and  the  sea,  130 
(}ombu,  population  of,  739 
Gomes,  Fernao,  referred  to,  229 
Gonczy,  P.,  and  H.  Berghaus,  Wull-map  of 

Hungary  (New  Maps),  308 
Gronsalves,  Lopo,  referred  to,  229 
Good  News,  steamer  sent  by  London  Mis- 
sionary Society  for  Luke  Tanganyika, 

290 
Goode  Island,  New  Guinea,  517 
Goorgeer  to  the  open  valley  at  a  place 

named  Shikarab,  Optain  Wells'  Itine- 
rary of  road  from.  151 
Gopal  river,  the,  157 
Gordon,  (}olonel,  605 

Ck>re  Booth,  Sur  Henry,  referred  to,  213     ; 
Gorgona,  island  of,  263 
Gorilla,  the,  in  West  Africa,  175, 176 
Goschen    Straits,    new   route   to  China 

through,  515 
Gothenburg,  562 
Gotland,  island  of,  Baltic  Sea»  43 

8   B 


770 


IN 


ifcx. 


Gk>tw6nd,  Fenia,  1S3 

Gonin,  M.  A.,  map  of  Tonkin  (New  Maps), 

629 
Gove,  Dr.,  340 
Govpyseh  range,  the,  144 
Gowans,  Captain,  death  of,  C91 
Goynm  to  Shiioz,  Captain  Wella'  Itinerary 

of  road  from,  168 
Graham.  W.  W.,  604 
Graian  Pass,  tlie,  554 
Grands-pagncs,  or  Prairie  Crces,  649 
Grant,  Colonel  J.  A.,  letter  from,  respecting 

the  death  of  King  Mtcsa,  479 
, ^  remarks  on  A  Visit  to  the 

Masai  people  living  beyond  the  borders 

of  the  Nguru  country,  542 
•  Mr.,  referred  to,  218,  662 


Gray  Bay,  Franz-Josef  Land,  205 
Gray,  Dr.  Asa,  419 

Paul,   &   Co.,  Messrs.,  at  Bnshire, 

123, 125-127 

Grease  river,  Athabasca  district,  646 
Great  Bear  Lake,  North  Anierioa,  646 

Black  Lake,  Athabasca  district^  645 

Britain    and    Ireland,  map  of,  by 

E.  H.  Wichmann  (New  Maps),  435 

Prairie,  fertility  of  the,  644 

Rapid,  Athobasca  river,  635,  637 

-: Shive  Lake,  634  et  «eo.,  728 

English  Meteorological 

Station  at,  378 
"Grecs,    Bibliotheouo    des     Classiques," 

summary  of  Greek  Geography,  173 
Greece,  antiquie  tabula  in  Ubum  scholorum 

descripta  (New  Maps),  752 

by     Amand     von     Schweiger- 

Lerchenfeld  (New  Books),  48 

Handbook  for  Travellers,publi8hed 

by  Karl  Baedeker  (New  Books),  366 

Grecly,  Lieutenant,  226,  878,  602,  733 

Green,  Rev.  W.  S.,  604 

Greenland,  discovery  of,  referred  to,  363 

East  Coast  of.  Baron  Norden- 

skiold'g  new  expedition  to,  1(>5 

old   map  of,   from  an    MS. 


Ptolemy,  295,  296 

probability   of  cases   in  tho 


interior  of,  165, 166 

projected  Swedish  and  Danish 


Expeditions  to,  234 

-The   West   Coast    of  (Peter- 


mann'8Mittheilungen)(NewMatw),  809 
-  Three  Pre-Columbian  Maps  of 


(New  Maps),  750 
Greifswald,  New  German    Geographical 

Society  at,  721 
Griflaths,  Rev.  Mr.,  165 
Gronback,  Captain,  407 
Grosvenor,  Hon.  T.,  420 
Mr.,   referred  to  in  Colbomo 

Baber*s  paper  on  China  in  some  of  its 

Pliysical  and  Social  Aspects,  452 
Grye,  M.  Bouauet  de  la,  voyage  of,  359 
Gualidi,  Geledi,  or  Jillcdy,  Africa,  717 
Guapore  river,  343 
Guurdufui,  Caiw,  718 
Guaso  N'Ebor,  mountains  near,  548 


Guatemala,  Explorations  in,  and  Examimt- 
tion  of  Indian  Ruins,  by  A.  P.  Mandsbv, 
185  et  seq. 

Plateau,  the,  670 

Guayaquil  Valley,  the,  Ecuador,  353 

Guaymas,  port  of,  California,  668 

Gubin  Bay,  662 

Gubuluwayo,  Matabele  Land.  230 

Gucba  river.  East  Africa,  495 

Gue'rin,  M.  Victor,  44 

Guerra,  Andres,  referred  to  in  Ma^iam's 
paper  on  the  Basins  of  the  Amara-mayu 
and  the  Beni,  319 

Gniana,  Among  the  Indians  of,  by  Everard 
F.  Im  Thum  (New  Books),  745 

Guiard,  M.  Emile,  361 

Guillain,  Commandant,  referred  to,  717 

Gnillemin,  M.  Eug^e,  relievo-map  of 
France,  175 

Guinea,  Gulf  of,  annexations  in  the,  484 

Gulhek  to  the  Garden  of  Ynjiia,  Lieut- 
Colonel  Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  58 

GtUnare,  the,  surveying  ship,  593 

Gunther  Channel.  207 

Sound,  Franz- Josef  Land,  217 

Gurla  Peak,  615 

Gutcharoff,  Mdlle.,  referred  ia^  105 

Gutchisir  stream,  or  Lore  river,  Persia,  59 

Guyard,  M.  Staniiilas,  completion  of 
Abonlfeda's  Geography  (New  Books), 
676 

Guyot,  Abbe',  deaUi  of,  605, 733 

P^,  journey  of,  reterrcd  to,  IOC 

Gurinjun  ridge,  the,  160 

Gwadur,  721 

Gwalga,  Peak  of,  616 

Gwalpara,  619 

Gwamba  language,  285 

Gylden,  Professor,  176 

H. 

Haahety  the,  steamer,  661 

Haardt,  V.,  School  Wall-map  of  America 

and  Europe  (New  Maps),  752 
Habali  stream,  546 
Haddndoas,  the,  M.  Mosionas*  communiea- 

tion  on,  299 
HaeckeL  Ernst,  A  Visit  to  Ceylon,  trans- 
lated by  Chira  Bell  (New  BooksX  302 

Ceylon  (New  Books),  49 

Haft  Cheshmeh,  Persia,  78 

Haft-lang,  people  on  right  bank  of  the 

Kariln  river,  150 
Hahe  district,  the.  South-west  Africa,  463 
Halm,  F.  G.,  Island  Study  (New  Buokil 

567 

Hugo,  470 

Hajji  Jabar  Khan,  Governor  of  Moham- 

mera,  132 
Httlenbeck,  L.,  sketch-map  of  the  Goasti 

of  the  North  Sea  (New  Maps),  683 
HaU,  J.  0.,  A  Visit  to  Corea  in  1882, 274 

ei  seq. 
Hollulabod,  caravanserai  at,  139 
Hallett,   Holt  8.,  on  the  advance  of  the 

Southern  Chinese,  672 


INDEX. 


771 


Hamburg   Altona,  plun  of  (New  Maps), 

435 
Hammerfest,  555 
Hammer,  Herr,  reforred  to,  716 
HamoD,  Dr.,  4i>l 
Hamy,  Dr.,  174 
Han,  A  Visit  to  the  Caves  of,  the  Hades 

of  Ardenne  (New  Books).  497 
fian-gang  or  BOul  river,  279 
Han-kow,  China,  454 
Han-snr^Lesse,   the   Hades   of   Ardenne 

(New  Books),  497 
Ban- Yang  or  Soul,  Corea,  274 
Hanbury,  Dr.  Daniel,  259 
Hancock,  William,  on  North  Formosa,  674 
on    the  Volcanic    and 

Earthquake  Regions  of  Central  America, 

669 
HanH,  India,  612 
Hann,  Julius,  Handbook  of  Climatology 

(New  Books),  626 
Hansen-Blangsted,  E..  177 
Hanasen,  Captain,  death  of,  605 
Hanyane  or  Panyame  river,  P.  C.  Selous' 

journey  along,  168 
Upper,  to  the  Zambesi,  F.  C. 

Selous'  expedition  from  the,  268 
Haramook  Peak,  616 
Haramosh  Peak,  615 
Harber,  Mr.,  referred  to,  232 
Harbour  Dictionary,  by  W.  T.  Lundgren 

(New  Books),  50 
Harcourt,  Egerton  Vernon,  Obituary  ofj 

663 
Hardman,  Mr.,  referred  to,  722 
Hare,  Augustus  J.  C,  Cities  of  Southern 

Italy  and  Sicily  (New  Books),  367 
Hareskin  river,  Athabasca  diatriot,  646 
Harcskins  Indians,  North  America,  650 
Harhaz  river  or  Lar  river,  Persia,  63 
Hari-nfd  river,  Persian  boundary,  Setteq. 
Harman,  Captain,  384 

the  late  Cuptain  H.  J.^  E.E.,  487 

Harmand,  Dr.,  427 

Harragin,  George  A.,  Cliart  showing  set 

of  currents  near  Trinidad  Island  (New 

Maps),  440 
Harrar  (Country,  the,  365 
Harrisse,  Henry,  The  Ck>rte-Real  and  their 

voyages  to  the  New  World  (New  Books), 

678 
Harrowby,  Earl  of.  Obituary  of,  388 
Harvey,    Rev.  M.,  and    Joseph    Hatton, 

Newfoundland  (New  Books),  241 
Harzgebirge,  map  of,  by  L.  Deichmann 

(New  Maps),  435 
Hassan  Kuli  Khan,  chief  of  the  Bakhtiari, 

126, 132 
Hassensteiu,  B.,  map    of  Corea   (Peter- 

roann's    Mittheilungen)  (New   Maps), 

628 
to  illustrate    Ger- 
hard   Rohlfs'  expedition  to  Abyssinia 

(New  Maps),  55 
West     Equatorial 

Africa     (Petermann's    Mittheilungen) 

(Now  Maps),  S7G 


Hato  Peak,  620 

Hatton,  Frank,  351 

Joseph,  and    Rev.    M.  Harvey, 

Newfoundland  (New  Books),  241 

New- 
foundland, the  Oldest  British  Ck>loDT 
(New  Books),  305 

Hatu,  617 

Hauash,  Colonel,  33,  34 

Haul^,  615 

Hawaii,  by  A.  Bastian  (New  Books),  682 

the  Kingdom  of,  Fire  Fountaina ; 

by  C.  F.  Gordon  Cumming  (New  Books)^ 
114  ^ 

Hay  river,  North  America,  644  - 

Hayden,  Professor,  419 

and  Professor  Selwyn. 

North  America,  Stanford's  Compondiom 
of  Geography  (New  Books),  432 

Hayter  Island,  China  Straits,  507 

Hazara  Valley,  616 

Heame,  funnel,  explorer  of  Lake  Atha- 
basca, 644,  648 

T.  P.,  482 

Heath,  Dr.  Edwin  R.,  342,  385 

Exploration  of  the 

River  Beni  in  1880-1,  2127  ef  teg. 

map  of  tiie  River 

Beni,  327  note 

referred  to  in  con- 
nection with  the  Basins  of  the  Amaru- 
mayu  and  the  Beni,  313 

Mark- 


ham's  paper  on  the  Basinisof  the  Amaru- 

mayu  and  the  Beni.  32.S-327 

Island,  China  Strait^  507 

Ivon,   referred  to    in  Markham'a 

paper  on   the   Basins  of  the  Amara- 

mayu  and  the  Beni,  323 
Hector,  Dr.  James,  map  of  New  Zealand 

(New  Maps),  750 
Helene,  Maxime,  The  Public  Works  of  the 

Nineteenth  Century  (New  Books),  50 
Helgurstadz,  lime  quairy,  Iceland,  485 
Hell's  Cauldron  gorge,  West  Africa,  697 
Heliwald,  Friedrich  von.  America  in  W<Ht 

und  Bild  (New  Books),  241 
Helmersen,    G.     von,   (Jeologische    und 

Physico-geographische    Beobachtnngen 

im  Olonezer  Borgrevier  (New  Books),  108 
Hdnurd,  M.  Ch.,  presentation  of  his  **  (}o8- 

mographe  Mobile,"  562 
Herajeh,  village  of,  145 
Herat,  advantages  of  roads  leading  to,  from 

the  Caspian  vi&  Mash-had,  6 

M.  Lessar'a  projected   railway  to. 


18 
232 


Astrabad  to,  Lcsear's  journey  from, 

-  from  Merv,  route  to  along  the  Mor- 

ghfib  river,  4  , 

Herjulfsnaes,  Greenland,  295 
Hirveo,  the  volcanic  centre  of,  Colombia, 

250 
Heth  and  Moab,  by  C.  R.  Conder  (New 

Books),  742 
Heuglin  s  "  Immeasurable  Lake,"  36 

8  £  2 


772 


INDEX. 


Bighlands  and   lelaod?,  The  Northern ; 

Thorough  Guide  Series,  by  M.  J.  B. 

Baddeley  (New  Books),  430 
Hildebrand,  Professor  H.,  48 
Hilisat  to  Bndbar  river,  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  147 
Himalaya,  the  Eastern,  617 
Himalayas,  mountain   climbing   in   the, 

604 
divisions  of  the,  by  Lieut-CJol. 

Godwin-Austen,    and    the    equivalent 

ranges  of  other  geographers  and  authors, 

613 
Hioung-nn,  the,  and  the  descendants  of,  15 

note 
Hippisley,  Mr.,  referred  to,  443 
Hlsamidzu,  Mr.,  Secretary  of  the  Japanese 

Legation  at  Soul,  283 
Historical-Geographical  Dictionary  of  the 

German  Middle  Ages,  by  Dr.  Hermann 

Oesterley  (New  BooksX  109 
Hiy&thelek  or  White  Huns,  the,  15 
Hjame,  Dr.  H.,  862 
Hlengwe  tribe,  285 
Hlithamarmar  Springs,  Iceland,  488 
Hoffman,  Captain,  referred  to,  223 
Hogan,  Father,  466 
Hoggars  tribe,  428 
Hoksar  Pass,  616 
Holdich,  Major,  553, 720 
Holm,  Lieutenant,  379 

M.,  604 

Holub,  Dr.,  projected  African  Expedition 

of,  230 
Honey  river,  South-west  Africa,  463 
Hooker,  Sir  Joseph,  624 
announcement  of  award 

of  Medal  to,  296 

-  presentation  of  Founder's 


Medal  to,  417-419 

remarks  on  responding 


to  the  toast  of  the  Medallists  for  the 

year,  424 
Hope  the.  213,  222 
Hoprner,  Dr.  C.,  Exploration  of  Ovampo- 

Land,  659 
Hoie,  Mr.,  presentation  made  to,  by  the 

French  Government,  103 
Horn,  Cape,  French  Meteorological  Mission 

to,  560,  562 
Hoskyn,  Lieuteqant,  275,  597 
"  Hospital "  River,  Colombia,  256 
Houtum-Schindler,  General  A.,  Route  from 

Qazwin  to  Tabriz  (New  Maps),  749 

■ Route  from 

Tabriz  to  S&ftdjbulagh  (New  Maps),  749 
Route  from 


Zendjan  to  Tacht    i  Soleim&n    (New 

Maps),  749 
Houses  liver  ('*  Wasknigan  Sipi "),  635 
Hovell,    Parish   of.    New  South    Wales 

Government  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Hovgaard,  Lieutenant,  378,  379,  603,  660, 

733 
Huacbi,  Bolivia,  838 
Huanai  river,  eeo  Caca  river,  337 
Huang-ho  river,  China,  442 


Huari-hnari  river,  or  Ynambari,  Bolivia, 

322 
Hiibbe-Schleiden,  Dr..  referred  to,  722 
Hiiber,  M.  Charles,  Medal  awarded  to,  by 

Paris  Geographical  Society,  358 

travels  of,  859,  371 

Huber.  M.  WUliam,  102 

Hue,  Abb^,  665,  666 

Hud^n,    T.    S.,    A    Scandper    through 

America  (New  Books),  49 
Hudson's  Bay  (Company,  establishment  of 

trade  of  the,  with  Chipowyans,  650,  652 
JTui   Ling^   mausoleum   of   the   Emperor 

Tung-chih,  29 
Huilla,  South-west  Africa,  462,  469 
Hull,  Professor.  675 
Humba  Hills,  East  (central  Africa,  585, 

589 
Humb^,  South-west  Africa,  4  66 
Humboldt,  Alexander  von,  265 
Bay     and    Point      D'Urvillc, 

coast  between,  513 
Humpata,  South-west  Africa,  462, 409, 660 
Hundes,  616,  619,  620 
Hungary,  from  the  Adriatic  to  the  Danobe, 

by  Victor  Tiasot  (New  Books),  49 
•^^ Statistical  Map  of  (Petermann's 

MittheUungen)  (New  Slaps),  51 

Wall  map  of,  by  H.   Berghaos 


' f  T  caa«-#ua>j^#     va|     *^j     a&*      a-r^i 

and  P.  Gonczy  (New  MapsX  308 
Hnnza-Nagar  range,  India,  614 
Hurricanes,    mtip    of   ttie,   of   Uie    two 

hemispheres  (New  Maps),  51 
Huson-More,  James,  Obituary  of,  388 
Husun  Ikdir  to  Gutchisir  and  Waliabad. 

Lieutenaut-C^olonel    Beresford  Lovett's 

Itinerary,  60 
Huxley,  Professor,  425 
Hvnrf,  Greenland,  295 
Hwing-hwa-mun,  ea^t  gate  of  Soul,  282 
Hydrographio   Department,    Summary  of 

the  Publications  of  the,  during  the  year 

1882,  601 
Hyphane  palm  in  forests  of  West  Africa, 

696 


Ibaka,  King,  579 

Ibari-Nkutu    river    or   Wabiima-Quango 

river.  West  Africa,  577, 578 
Ibo,  town  of,  394,  402 
Ice,  the  Sea  of,  by  Jules  Leclercq  (New 

Books),  48 
Ice  Fiord,  Spitzbergen.  Swetli^h  Meteoro- 
logical Station  at,  378,  554 
Iceland  and  New  Zealand,  on  the  Hot 

Springs  of,  by  Cuthbert  E.  Peek,  667 
Iceland,  supposed  ancient  map  discovered 

by  Baron  Nordenskiold  in.  473,  556 
Ice-Pack  and  Tundra,  by  W.  H.  Gilder 

(New  Books),  307 
Ikelemba  river,  or  Eassai,  West  CJentml 

Africa,  605 
Ilala,  the,  32,  691 
lliyat  tents,  the,  139 

tribes,  Persia,  714 

Illampu  Peak,  Bolivia,  813 


INDEX. 


773 


Illimani  Peak,  Bolivia,  31'3 

Illkirch  •  Grufenstndcn,   Gcmciude  -  Karto 

von  (New  Maps),  51 
Ilopango     Lake,     volcano    of.     Central 

America,  670 
Im  Thum,  Everard  F.,  Araon^  the  Indians 

of  Guiana  (New  Books),  745 
Imarazadeli  Mahamad,  shrine  of,  at  Bos- 
lam,  Persia,  79 
or  shrine  in  Persian  villages, 

62,65 
Imbituba,  Brazil,  600 
Imis  La,  615 
Imperial  Mausolea,  Eost  of  Peking,  Notrs 

of  a  Journey  to  the,  by  Frederick  S.  A. 

Bourne,  23  et  seq. 
Inagu,  Africa,  719 

Hills,  Africa,  719 

Indyanduge  channel  of  the  Sabi  delta,  273 

Incas,  the,  266,  345 

India,  Account  of  the  Operations  of  the 

Great  Trigonometrical    Survey  of,    by 

J.  T.  Walker  (New  Books),  743 
General  Report  on  the  Operations 

of  the  Survey  of,  &c.,  by  J.  T.  Walker, 

Surveyor-General  of  India  (New  Books), 

368 
Graticule    Plates    to  bo  used  for 

the  projection  of  maps  of  (New  Maps), 

502 
Southern,  Our  Tour  in,  by  Mrs.  J.  C. 

Murray-Aynsley  (New  Boo^),  368 
Survey  Department  of,  work  of,  383, 

384 

surveys  of  coasts  of,  599 

The  Student's  Geographv  of,  by 

George  Smith  (New  Books),  111 
Indian  Atlas  (New  Maps),  502 
Government  Survey  Maps  (New 

Maps),  116,  247,  502,  684 

Ocean,  surveys  of,  596 

Indiarubber,    variety    of,    grown  in    the 

Amaru-mayu  and  Beni  basius,  H46 
Indies,  West,  surveys  of  islands  of,  594 
Indus  river,  611,  615. 618,  620 
Inframangio,  town.  West  Africa,  40 
Ingalulu  river  of  the  Subi  delta,  273 
Iniqua,  Bolivia,  337 
Inktmba  men.  West  Africa,  572 
Inkissi  river,  West  Africa,  701 
Insal^ng,  capital  of  Aguna,  38 
Instruments,  grants  of,  to  travellers,  413 
Insuaim  or  Insuayem,  38 
Investigator,  the,  surveying  ship,  600 
Inyambare,  Africa,  270 
Ira,  village  of,  Persia,  65 
Irawadi  and  Sanpo  rivers,  169 
Irbit  district,  fossil  remains  in  the,  391 
Irgizyk,  Eaatem  Tsaidam,  552 
Iribee,  Western  Akim,  38 
Irkutsk,  East  Siberian  Section  of  the  Rus- 
sian Geographical  Society  at,  405 
Irupana,  Bolivia,  341 
Isaksen,  J.  N„  97 

Isangila,  Fall  of,  Congo  river,  287,  699 
station.  West  Africa,  573, 698, 699, 

710 


Ischia,  Island  of.  Topographical  Map  of 

(New  Maps),  683 
Island  Study,  by  F.  G.  Halm  (New  Books), 

567 
Isles,  Like  of  the,  Athabasca  district,  G45 
Ispahan  and  Shuster,  practicability  of  line 

between,  125, 126 

height  of,  Persia,  128 

Russian  manufactures  superseding 

British  wares  at,  123 

the  roa<l  from  Shuster  to,  tra^ 


veiled  by  Mr.  Bfackenzie,  131 

-  to  Mohammerah,  \ik  Shuster,  Mr. 


Mackenzie's  journey  from,  131 

—  to  Shiraz,  distance,  and  the  road 


from.  152 

■  to  Shuster,  Captain  Wells'  journey 


from,  144 

to  tlie  sea,  comparison  of  routes 


from,  152 
Istokhri,  referred  to,  715 
Italy,  antiqua  in  usum  scholarum  scripta 

(New  Maps).  752 
(Central.  Hypsometrical  Map  of  (New 

Maps),  435 
Handbook  for  Traveller:?,  published 

by  Karl  Baedeker  (New  Books),  367 
— —  map  of  (New  Maps),  500 
map     of,      Ibtituto     Topografieo 

Militare,  Firenze  (New  Maps),  51 
I'hysical  and  Political  Wall-maps  of, 

Richard  Eicpcrt's  School  Wull-niaps  of 

European  Countries  (New  MapsX  440 

Rood  and  Postal  Map  of   (New 

Maps),  627 

Southern,  and  Sicily,  Cities  of,  by 

Augustus  .1.  C.  Hare  (New  Books),  367 

•  ■  -  Studi  Biografici  e  Bibliograflci 
sulla  Storia  della  Geografia  in  Italia 
(New  Books),  242 

Italian  Deep-sea  Explorations  in  the  Medi- 
terranean, 489 

Expedition  to  Mount  Demayend^ 

169,  170 

Itenez  river,  Bolivia,  313 

Itsi  Cataracts,  West  Africa,  701 

Ivanitzky,  M.,  natural  history  researches, 

391 
Ivigtuk,  365 
Ivou  river,  Bolivia,  332 
Ivrea,  622 

lyiniwok  Indians,  649 
Izalco,  volcano  of,  C!entral  America,  670 


J. 


Jabkbeh  Eiiav,  Sbeikh,  (Toptain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  157 
Jack,  Robert  L.,  QueensUnd  Goyemmont 

Geologist,  101 
Jackson,  M.  J.,  44 
report  of,  on  the  state  of 

the  library  of  tne  Geographical  Society 

of  Paris  iu  1882, 106 
Jacquier,  M.,  oonstrnction  of  a  railway  to 

connect  Kai  or  Eayes  with  Kita,  37 


774 


INDEX. 


Jaintia  country,  the,  619 

Hills,  625 

Jaintiapar,  617,  620 

Jaizou,    camp    near,    to    Deh-koreyseb, 
Captain  Wells'  Itinerary  of  road  from, 

Jim  river,  tributary  of  the  Hari-nid  river, 

10 
Jampaasnk  river,  Borneo,  350 
Jan    Mayen    Island,     Auatro-Hungarian 

Meteorological  Station  at,  378 

violent     northerly 

storms  on,  555 

Jensen,  Commodore,  referred  to,  222,  348 

Lieutenant,  referred  to,  231 

Janssen,  Lieutenant,  death  of,  605 
Japan,  Highways  and   Byeways    in,   by 

Arthur  H.  Crow  (New  JBooks),  241 

surveys  of  coasts  oi,  597,  598 

Japanese  Lection  at  Soul,  the,  283 
Jupvo,  highest  point  of  Naga  Hills,  617, 

620 
Jarahi  river,  159 
Jasper,  Fort,  North  America,  634 
Java,  Island  of,  Mr.   Forbes'   work    in, 

657 
Javorsky,  Br.  I.  L.,  Trnvels  of  the  Russian 

Mission  in  Afghanistan  and  the  Khanate 

of  Bokhara  (New  Books),  302 
Jeannest,  Charles,  Four  Years  on  the  Congo 

(New  Books),  567 
JeannettCf  the,  225 

Expedition,  the,  report  of  Geo. 

W.  Melville  in  connection   with  (New 
Books),  241 

survivors     of    the, 


S79 


-  The  Voyage  of  the  (New  Books), 

747 
Jean's   river    ("  Dzan-doa-tchd "),   North 

America,  647 
JAel  Teir,  595 
Jenejoya  river,  Bolivia,  329 
Jeneibuaya  river,  Bolivia,  330 
Jennabeh,  Persia,  716 
Jehan-bin  ("  Sight  of  the  World  ")  Moun- 

tain,  Persia,  145  note 
Jehan  Nameh  Peak,  Persia,  82 
Jemalabad,  village  of,  Persia,  143 
Jha-Chu,  river,  the  Eastern,  665 
Jhelum  river,  India,  611,  616,  624 
Jilledy,  Gualidi,  or  Geledi,  Africa,  717 
Jinchuen,  anchorage  of,  597 
Jiuman,  Capt.  G.  and  Capt.  J.  Lenty,  Tlie 

Can!  Bocks  from  the  Shual  discovered  by, 

(New  Maps),  752 
Johannesen,  Captain  H.  C,  97, 176,  661 

Soren,  97 

Johnsen,  Nils,  97 

Johnson,  Rev.   W.  P.,  travels  in  Africa, 

32,  382,  691 

W.  H.,  604 

Obituary  of,  291 

Johnston,  H.  H.,  A  Visit  to  Mr.  Stanley's 

Stations  on  the  river  Congo,  569  et  seq. 
•^—' news  of  Mr.  Stanley  from, 

483 


Johnston,  H.  H.,  referred  to,  731 

referred  to  by  the  Earl  of 

'    Mayo  in  his  paper  on  a  Jonmey  from 
Mossamedes  to  the  river  Cun^nd,  458 

•  reply  to  Fmnols  Galtoo'^ 


questions,  711 

—  The  River  Congo,  from 


its  Mouth  to  Bolobu.  692  et  aeq. 

T.  B.,  map  of  Palestine  (New 

^laps),  628 

map  of  South  Africa  (New 


Maps),  438 
Johore    to    Siam,  M. '  Miklnkho-Maclay's 

journey  from,  46 
Jones,  Lewis,  referred  to  by  Mr.  Dnmford 

in  his  Explorations  in  Central  Pata- 
gonia, 86 
Jordan,  W.  W.,  referred  to,  462 
Joaceline,  Lake,  Australia,  723 
Jonsse,  M.,  French  missionary  at  Le-sato, 

299 
Juan  do  Lana  Rapid,  Bolivia,  339 
Juan  Limpias,  camp  of,  Bolivia,  331 
Juba  river,  Abyssinia^  552,  717 
Judith   Basin,  map   of.  Northern  Trans* 

continental  Survey  (New  Maps).  630 
Jugor  Strait,  97,  661 
Jujuy,  map   of  the   province  of,  by  L. 

Braokebusch  (New  Mape),  630 
Juldoka  river,  617 
Jullien  Mount,  512 
Jumna,  620 
Junker,  Dr.,  Journey  on  the  Welle,  33 

referred  to,  105,  381 

Jurgens,  Lieutenant,  232,  390 

E. 

Kabtxda,  West  Africa,  694,  695,  705 

Kabild  Chaahmeh  to  S6Ifeh,  Lieut.-CoI. 
Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  69 

Eachicbi,  king  of  Koto,  164 

Kadam-gah,  Persia,  143 

Kadamg&h  Peak,  Persia,  66 

Kafir-kala  and  Tnmkb,  steep  alopes 
between,  9 

Kafir-kaleb,  protected  ford  at,  10 

Kagumpaka,  king.  West  Africa,  572 

Kahka  settlement,  Atak,  2 

Kahmil  river,  016 

Kai  or  Kayes  and  Kita,  railway  to  con- 
nect, 37 

Kailas  Peak,  615,  620 

Kairwan,  by  Edward  Rae,  668 

Kaiser,  Dr.,  551 

Kaisir  Band  or  Gerger  stream,  155 

Kajnag  ridge,  616,  624 

Ktijiir,  forest  of,  charcoal-burning  at,  60, 
63 

Kakee  river  or  Mand,  South  Persia,  712 

Kakongo  tribe,  706 

Kala  or  Sokolo,  739 

Kalahari  Desert,  696 

Kalateh,  village  of,  Persia,  73 

Kalebleb  shrub,  Loftus',  153 

Kaleh-hizar  or  Kaleh-i-Sir  village,  Perma, 
72 


INDEX. 


775 


Kaleli-i-doktar,  Persia,  69 

Kaleh-i-Melon,  mins,  10 

Kaleh-i-8ir  or  Kaleh-hizar  village,  Persia, 

72 
Kaleh-i>Tnl  Fort,  to  Sarasia  or  Kad-zerd, 

Capt  Weils'  Itinerary  of  the  roud  from, 

150 
KaleU  Noa,  village  of,  Persia,  78,  79 
Kaleh-safid  Hill,  IGl 
Kali  river,  617 
K^wek,  Persia,  63 
Kamkrij  EotuI,  tUe,  Persia,  US,  152 
Kambomba,  chief,  690 
Kamensky,  Ivan  Feodorovitch,  death  of, 

389 
Eamiot,  620 
Kan-BU,  province  of,  and  Mongolia,  H. 

Potanine's  expedition  iu,  430 
Eanehinjnnga,  617 
Kanchn  Peak,  617 

Kaneh-zennn  Hill  or  Enh-i-kolat,  162 
K'ang-hsi,  Emperor,  24 
Eangra  district,  624 
JTara,  the,  218 
Kara  -  Aghatoh    river.  Southern    Persia, 

712 
Kara  Gate,  ice  in  the,  661,  662 
Kara-Kum  Draert,  the,  21, 171 
Kara  Sea,  expeditions  to  tbe,  176 

ice  in  the,  662 

Kara-sti,  tributary  of  the  Hari-nid,  10 

Karagatch,  the,  Persia,  152 

Karaloram,  614. 615 

Karamba,  chief,  689 

Karema,  Belgian  station  at,  381 

Lake  Tanganyika,  551 


Kiuonga,  East  Africa,  691 

Karoon  or  Karhn  river,  the,  Persia,  133 

Xaroony  the,  river  steam  launch,  132 

Karsoe,  Island  of,  295 

Kartaksho,  615 

Karhn  river,  the,  146, 148, 149, 152.  See 
Karoon 

■  advisability  of  free  naviga- 
tion of  the,  for  British  trade,  126 

desirability  of  the,  for  com- 
mercial purposes,  136 

Karzin,  Persia,  712,  716 

Kashgaria,  by  Colonel  A.  N.  Kuropatkin 
(New  Books),  304 

Kashmir,  616,  619,  620 

Kaasai  or  Ikelemba  river.  West  Central 
Africa,  605 

**Katoh&-Ottin^  "  or  Slaves,  Indians,  650 

Kaufmann,  Ulrich,  604 

Kauport,  J.  A.,  and  £.  Cnrtius,  map  of 
Attica  (New  Maps),  434 

Kaw&m  All  village,  Persia,  142 

Kayser,  Dr.,  death  of,  428 

Keeling  Islands,  the,  656 

Keeran  Peak,  620 

Kej,720  . 

Kclatefa,  village  of,  Persia,  79 

Kelly,  Paul,  servant  to  Earl  of  Mayo,  458 

Kelwa,  pipes  used  in  working  iron,  East 
(Central  Africa,  588 

Kerambar  Pass,  India,  614 


Keramoh  village.  Southern  Persia,  139 

Keria,  town  of,  552 

Kersteu,  Dr.,  379 

Kenghan,  Persia.  714 

Kenia,  Mount,  379,  380 

and  Victoria  Nyanza  Ex- 
pedition, 228 

Keniora,  36 

Kentucky,  Parish  of  (New  South  Wales  • 
Government  Map)  (New  MapsX  310 

Kewar,  Southern  Persia,  712, 716 

river.  Southern  Persia,  712 

'  Key  el  Aby,  reported  lake  in  Africa,  95 
note 

Khabr,  Persia,  716 

Khaf  and  Turbat-i-Haidari,  road  between, 
8 

Khagan  river,  616^ 

Kbairabad  river  to  Do-gunibazan,  Captain 
Wells'  Itinerary  of  mad  from,  159 

Khamane,  regent  of  the    Bamangwatoe, 
484 

Khame,  chief  of  the  Bamangwatos,  484 

Klian-el-Asad,  Persia,  716 

Khan-i-khet,  140, 141 

Khan-i-Zinyan,  Southern  Persia,  712 

Khan    Lar    Khan    to  Ask,    Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Bercsford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  64 

Khanakin,  Persia,  136 

and  Kirmanshah,  road  between, 

124, 125 

Kharan,  721 

Khds-rud  river.  Persia,  75 

Khasi  Hills,  619,  625 

Khavur,  Plains  of,  Persia,  66 

Khing  Plateau,  Persia,  70 

ELhir  to  Ndris,  distimco  from,  141 

Khombou  Pass,  6 

to  Persia  vi&  the  roins  of  Pesh- 

robat,  M.  Lessar's  road  from,  7 

Khonsar,  caravans  to,  133 

Khor  Bamushir  river,  Persia,  125 

Khor  Ziaret  river,  Southern  Persia,  712 

Khor-i-Ziaret  river,  Persia,  714 

Khdzdar,  720 

Khushkbak,  Persia,  142 

KiangLa.615 

Kiarat  pastures,  Persia,  76 

Kibanti  village,  521,  528 

Kibo,  Mount,  546,  547 

Kibonoto  village,  South-east  Africa,  477, 
547,  549 

Kidimba,  Africa,  174 

Ividudwe,  forest  of,  541 

Kiepert,  H.,  new  Wall-map  of  Palestine 
(New  Maps).  436 

Physical  Wall-map   of  Asia 

(New  Maps),  436 

B.,    new    School   Wull-me^)    of 


Schl^wig-Holstein  (New  Maps),  312 
Richard,  School  Wall -maps   of 


European  Countries;  Physical  and 
Political  Wall-map  of  Italy  (New 
Maps),  440 

School    Wall -maps    of 


European  Countries:  Political  Wall-nuip 
of  Balkan-Halbinsel  (NewMapsX  68S 


776 


ISDKX. 


Kiepertf  BicLard,   School  WaH-maps  of 

European    C!ountric8 ;    Political  Wall- 

map  of  the  British  Islands  (New  Maps), 

56 
Kikafo  river,  547 
Kikassa,  Africa,  163 
Kikuru  river,  East  Africa,  689 
Kila  Panza,  India,  611 
Kilima  Kibomu,  545 
Kilimanjaro,  Mount,  South-east  Africa,  379 

380.  477,  546 
KiUse/i,  meaning  of  the  word,  15 
KilliBtiuo    or     Crees,    North     American 

Indiana,  649,  650 
Kilwa-Klvunji,  East  Africa,  397 
Kilwa-Nyassa  roud,  394 
Kimawenzi,  Mount,  546 
Kiua  Balu  mnuntuin,  Borneo,  90 

Batangau  river,  Borneo,  90 

Kinchacha,  289 

King  William  Cupe,New  Guinea,  509 

King  Sound,  North-west  Australia,  722 

Kingenge,  African  chief,  163 

Kini  Bala,  Mouot,  384 

Kinsembo,  West  Africa,  692 

Kinshasha  village,  natives  of.  West  Africa, 

575,  676 
Kiraragvra  route,  the,  547 
Kirk,  Sir  John,  referred  to,  719 
. remarks  on  A  Visit  to  tho 

Masai  people  living  beyond  the  borders 

of  the  Nguru  country,  543 
Kirman  and  Ispahan,  route  between.  130 
and  Yezd,  roads  inland  to,  Persia, 

124 
Kisanga  district,  Y^aai  Cential  Africa,  582 
Kiseru  village,  520,  521 
Kishengunga  river,  616,  619 
fiiahtwar,  616 
Kisongo  village,  541 

Kissangue'  settlement.  West  Africa,  696 
Kita,  near  the  Niger,  36 
Kitabi,  West  Africa,  711 
Kitchener,  Captain,  675 
and  Captain  Conder, 

The  Survey  of  Western  Palestine  (New 

Books),  304 
Ki-yansi  language,  West  Africa,  708 
Kizil-buhik     and     KhombOu,     road     to 

Afghanistan  tlirough,  6 
Kiziwa,  hill  and  villages  of,  519 
Knight  Errant,  the,  surveyin":  ship,  593 
"  Knobnoses  "  or  Ma-Gwamba  tribe,  285 
Kaoop,  Baron,  406 
Kodiyan,  Southern  Persia,  712 
Koeboes  of  the  Upper  Moesi  region,  657 
Kohgelo  Lurs  tribe,  157 
Koiarian  tribe,  the,  New  Guinea,  357 
KolguibV  Island,  661 
Koolemans  Beynen,  energetic  promoter  of 

Arctic  research,  348 
Kopsen.  Consul  W.,  47 
Konar  Takta  Plain,  152 
Koncha   and   Ngaundere,  sources  of  the 

Benue  between,  551 
Koudo,  Mr.,  283 
Kongaberg^  the,  662 


KossiakofT,   M.,  explorations  in  Western 

Asia,  392 
Kostin  Shar,  661 
Kotul  Dukhter,  the,  152, 153 
Koulen  Mountain,  741 
Koumi,  country  of,  561 
Kra,  Isthmus  of.  Notes  of  a  Journey  aeran, 

by   Commander  A.    J.    Loftoa    (New 

Books),  564 
Krakatoa,  volcano  of,  737 
Krapf,  Dr.,  528 
Krarnp,  Mr.,  referred  to,  727 
Krauae,  Dr.  A.,  Ethnographisclie  Earte 

derTschuktschenUalbinsel  (NewHapsj, 

750 
Karte    des    TschUkat- 

Gebietes  mit  den  Fassen  zum  Yukon 

(New  Maps),  750 

Skizze   des  Weges  vod 


Deschii   bis  zum   Westlichea   Kusaoua 

(New  Maps),  55 
Kriiger,  M.  C,  Map  of  IiC-«ato  or  ooontry 

of  the  Ba-sutos,  299 
Kuduk-i«Sh&h  Abbasi,   mined  serai   of, 

Persia,  68 
Kuenlun  range  explained,  India,  614 
Kugelbach,  Herr,  referred  to,  717 
Kuh  Kachang,  mountain  of,  Persia,  60 

Kadamgah  mountain,  Persia,  69 

Kuh-i-asmari,  tho  watershed  of  the,  151 
Kuh-i-bamu,  the,  140 
Kuh-i-barafi  of  Shiraz,  162 
Kuh-i-dil  or  Kuh-i-huma  mountain,  160 
Kuh-i-dinar  range,  Persia,  146  note 
Kuh-i-kalah  mountain,  146 
Kuh-i-kum-firuz  range,  162 
Kuli-i-mangasht  mountain,  147, 148 
Kuh-i-rung  or  Karun  river,  146, 147 
Kuh-i-subz  range,  146 
Kuh-i-Surd  Peak,  Persia,  66 
Kuilu,  West  Africa,  484 

river.  West  Africa,  710 

Kullmann,  G.,  School-map  of  tho  kingdom 

of  Saxony  (New  Maps),  440 
Eunar,  615 
Kungrad  to  the  Gulf  of  Mcrtvykolduk, 

survey  from,  392 
Kungrueli,  robdt,  brackish  wells  at  the,  5 
Kuuya  Urgentoh,  Central  Asia,  669 
Kuper  Peak.  617 
Khrio,  river,  Persia,  70 
Kuropatkin,    Colonel  A.  N.,    Kashgaria 

(New  Books),  304 
Kturand  to  Fulhad  Mahala,    Lieat.-C(^ 

Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  71 
Kusdn,  Afghan  settlement  on  the  banks  of 

the  Hari-rhd,  6 
and  Pul-i-KhatCin,  impossibility 

of  a  road  between,  17 
Kushk  and  the  Hari-rdd,  country  between 

the,  4 
Kuslik-i-Mullah  villages,  Persia,  139 
Kuzluk  Pass,  Persia,  76 
Kwa-ch'hon  town,  Corea,  279 
Ewamatola  Mountains.  Africa.  397 
Kwang-hwa-mun,  west  gate  of  Soul,  282 
Kyangdweng  Valley,  617 


INDEX. 


777 


L. 

La  Asuxta  village,  310 

La  Bicho  or  Athabasca  river,  634 

or  Red  Deer  Lake,  634 

—  Foil,  village  of,  173 

—  Orandi^re  Islands.  509 

—  Paz,  ascent  of  the  Beni  and,  rivers  to, 
335  et  aeq. 

inhabitants  of,  344 

river,   tributary   of  river   Boni, 

Bolivia,  314.  323,  341,  343 

—  Pe'rouse,  the  expedition  of.  43 

—  Plonge  river,  Athabasca  district,  646 

—  Bonge,  Lake,  Athabasca  district,  645 

—  Torre,  Colonel  Don  Baltazar,  referred 
to.  320 

Lacandon,  Bio.  Guatemala,  196 
Lacandones,  visit  to  a  settlement  of  the, 

Guatemala,  202 
Lacandons,  the  country  of  the,  45 
Lacouperie,  Terrien  de,  673 
Lacrosse,  Lake,  Athabasca  district,  648 
Ladak  ranfte,  the,  612,  615 
Lady  Franklin  Bay.  the  American  Polar 

Station  at,  378,  602 
Leges  Rapid,  Bolivia,  334 
Lagrange  Bay,  Australia,  724 
Lahat,  737 
Lallement,  G.  Av^,  map  of  the  Province  of 

San  Luis  (New  Maps),  630 
Laloke,  valley  of  the.  New  Guinea,  355 
Lan-Ts'ang  or  Mekong  river,  664,  665 
Landana,  Africa,  705 
Langle,  M.  de,  discovery  of  remains  of,  at 

Tutuila  Island,  426 
Langlois,    M.    A.    D.,    **Erhard'*    prize 

awarded    to,    by    Paris    Geographical 

Society,  358 
Lansdell,  Dr.,  Journey  in  Central  Western 

Asia,  98 
Rev.  Henry,  Journey  in  Russian 

Central  Asia,  660 
Lansdowne,  Lord.  387,  425 
Laos  Shans,  the,  673 

slave  trade  in,  429 

Lar  river  or  Harhaz  river,  Pereia,  63 
Laroom,  Mr.  Arthur,  reftrrred  to  by  Lieut.- 

Col.  Beresford  Lovett;  60 
Lardner,  Colonel  John,  obituary  of,  389 
Larecaja  river,  trtbutary  of  liver   Beni, 

Bolivia,  314 
Lareh  Mountains,  Persia,  77 
J.ark,  the,  surveying  ship,  593 
Larocbette  and  Meyer,  Map  of  the  World 

by  (New  Mape),  115 
Larsen,    M.,   account   of  his  journey  in 

Siberia  with  the  Jeannette  Search  Expedi- 
tion, 107 
Lartet,  M.,  675 
Last,  J.  T.,  A  Visit  to  the  Masai  people 

living  beyond  the  borders  of  the  Nguru 

Country,  517  et  seq. 
A  Visit  to  Wa-itnmfaa   iron- 
workers, 581  et  tea. 
^—  gtants  of  instrnments  to,  415 


Lftst.  J.  T.,  Journey  in  the  Blasai  Countrv, 

166 

report  of  tho  Masai,  380 

Lauritsen,  Lieutenant,  564 

Lauture,  Count  Escayrac  de,  35 

La  was  river,  Borneo.  721 

Lawes,  Rev.  W.  G.,  385,  731 

W.  G.,  letter  from,  on  An  Excnr- 

sion  in  the  interior  of  New  Guinea,  355 
Lawrence,  Rev.  F.,  675 
Le  Bruat,  the,  741 
Le  Romanche,  the.  562 
Le-suto,  or  tbo  country  of  the   Ba-sntos, 

map  by  M.  C.  Kruger,  299 
Lebushi,  the  chief  of  the  Ba-Rotse,  167, 168 
Lecleroq,  Jules,    The    Sea   of  Ice  (New 

Books),  48 
Lededi  Lake,  Africa,  398 
Ledoulx,  M.,  communications  from  East 

Africa,  428,  429 
—    communication    from,    on 

various  expeditions  in  East  Africa,  558 
—  referred  to,  287,  739 


Letlovo  (Lille  Dimon),  720 

Leeder,  E..  Wall-map  of  the  Alps  (Now 
Mapd),  748 

liceuwin,  Cnpe,  597 

Lefroy,  General  Sir  J.  H ,  614 

remarks  on  ex- 
plorations in  Guatemala,  20:i,  204 

remarks  on  the 


Earl  of  Mayo's  paper  on  A  Jouniey  from 
Mosaamedes  to  the  river  Cunen^,  473 

remarks      on 


Joseph  Thomson's  departure  for  Africa, 
42 

remarks 


Visits  to  tlio  Eastern  and  North-eastern 
coast:i  of  Now  Guinea,  516 

Ijegoi  tribe,  tlie,  548 

Leiimann.  Dr.  F.  W.  Paul,  refcrre«l  to,  722 

Lemm,    Mr.,    referred    to  By   Lieut.-Col. 
Beresford  Lovett,  75 

Lomstrem,  Professor,  390 

Lena,  the,  176 

Lena,  mouth  of  the,  Russian  Polar  Meteor- 
ological Station  nt  the,  231,  390 

Lendi  Mountains,  Persin,  77 

Lenjan  Valley,  the  Upper  and  Lower, 
144 

Lennard  river,  North-west  Australia,  723 

Lenz,  Dr.  Oscar,  239,  286,  739 

Leo  Purgial  Mountains,  616 

Leopardus  marmoratu*,  or  marbled  cat  in 
the  Borneo  forests.  95 

I^eopold  II.,  Lake,  West  Africa,  578,  702 

Leopold  Ran^rcs,  Australia,  723 

Leopoldville,  West  Africa,  574,  575 

Leques,  M.,  letter  from,  236 

Lerco  Pass,  Bolivia,  339 

Lesun  to  Arjumand,  Lieui-CSol.  Bv.'rrsforfl 
Lovett*D  Itinerary,  66 

Lessar,  M.,  382,  737 

account  of  journey  in  tho  moun- 
tains of  Dereghez  and  Kelat,  175 

—  researches  as  to  existence  of  the 


ancient  bed  of  the  Oxus,  561 


778 


INDEX. 


Lessar,  M.,  Second  Journey  in  the  Turko- 
man country — Askabad  to  Ghuriun  near 
Herat,  1  et  aeq. 

value  of  the  report  of  his  journey 

from  Askabad  to  Herat,  12 

—  work  in  Central  Asia,  43 


licssar's  Journey  from  Astrabad  to  Herat, 

232 
Lesseps,  Barth^emy  de,  43 

M.  Ferdinand  de,  426,  427,  429 

address    of,  to 


the  Paris  Gkographical  Society,  44 
remarks 


235,  23C 


by. 


remarks,  on 
presenting  M.  Marius  Fontaine's '  L'His- 
toire  Universelle  *  to  the  Paris  G^eo- 
graphical  Society,  43 

visit  to  Boyal 


Geographical  Society,  735 
Lesserteur.  Abb^,  43,  427 
Letaille,  M.,  298,  361 
Letronne,  A.  J.,  CEuvres  Choisies  de  (New 

Books),  308 
Letts,  Son  and  Co.,  Popular  Atlas  (New 

Maps),  440 
Leuty,  Captain,  and  Captain  G.  Jinman, 

the  Cani  Rooks  from  Shoals  discovered 

by  (New  Maps),  752 
Leuzinger,  B.,  new  map  of  Switzerland 

(New  Maps),  435 
Levy  Hills,  West  Central  Africa,  578 
Leyden,  International  Congress  of  Orient- 
alists at,  290 , 
Leys,  M.,  Travels  in  North-west  Borneo, 

721 
Lhota  Naga  Hills,  617 
Library  of  R.G.S.,  Report  of  the,  415 
Libyan  Desert,  Exploration    of   the,    by 

Gerhard  Rohlfs  (New  Books),  678 
Lidedi  river.  897 
Limba,  chief;  522 
Llmbang  river,  Borneo,  721 
Limika,  Captain,  662 
Lingah.  town  of,  Persia,  124 
Lingzi  Thang  Plain,  615 
Lishehe,  village  of,  399,  400 
Lishter,  Plain  of,  160 
jAasochUvsgiganteHs,Gd7 
Littelton  Island,  602 
Little  Fork  river,  Athabasca  district,  645 
Livingstone,  Dr..  referred  to,  235 

Falls,  West  Africa,  700 

Llord  town,  Colombia.  251 

Lo  Bengula,  chief  of  Gubiiluwayo,  485 

Lo  Magondi's  town,  Africa,  268 

Lo-su,  Loio  or  Ngo-su  people,  China,  445 

Loanda,  West  Africa,  692,  696 

Loango  coast.  West  Africa,  695 

gorilla  in  the  district  of,  176 

people.  West  Africa,  705 

Loangwa  river, East  Central  Africa,  659, 690 
Lob  Nor,  as  a  depot  for  provisions,  552 
Loche  or  Methy  Portage,  687 
Lock,  Alfred  G.,  Gold,  its  Occurrence  and 

Extraction  (New  Books),  50 
Lofley,  Cape,  Franz- Josef  Land,  205,  225 


Lofley,  Captain,  referred  to,  208,  217 

Loftus,  M.,  427 

Commander    A.    J.,    Note*   of  s 

Journey    across  tlie    Isthmus  of  Kn 

(New  Books),  564 
Lofnku  river,  551 
Loge  river,  West  Africa,  692 
Ix^e  river,  North-west  Australia,  723 
Loja,  the  prpvince  of,  Ecuador,  353 
Lolo,  LoHsn  or  Ngo-su  people,  China,  445 
Lolos,  the,  identified  with  ttie  Colonan  of 

Marco  Polo,  446 
Lombardy,  621 
Long,  Colonel  Chaillie,  605 
Long  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
Longwe  stream.  East  Africa,  690 
Lonicera  parvifiora,  639 
Lopez,  Cape,  229 
Lora  river,  Persia,  60 

or  Gutchiiiir  stream,  Persia,  59 

"  Lorillard  City,"  ancient  ruined  town  in 

Central  America,  45 
Lorillard,  M.  Pierre,  44 
Losewa  river.  East  Africa,  691 
Lota  maculosa^  645 
Lottin  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
Louise,  the,  176,  177,  406,  555,  603, 661 
Lovett,  Ck>lonel  Beresford,  143 
travelsin  Western 

Asia,  383 

-  Lieutenant-Colonel  Bereaford,  rx. 


O.S.I.,  H.M.  Consul,  Astrabad,  Itinerary 

Not^  of  Route  Surveys  in  Northern 

Persia,  in  1881  and  1882,  57  ei  leq. 
Lovisato,  M.,  lecture  on  Tiena  del  Fn^o. 

298 
Lu-tze-kiang  or  Salwen  river,  664,  665 
Luaha,  Ruaha  or  Lufigi  river,  106 
LnBlaba-(3ongo,  races  inhabiting  the,  705 
Lualabe  river,  West  Africa,  570,  705 
Luango-Luce,  or  Caoongo  river,  229 
Lub  or  HermitlslandSjMalayAjchipdago, 

47 
Lubi  river,  Africa,  164 
Lnbilaah  or  Sankuru  river,  174 

river,  tributary  of  the  Congo,  164 

Lvcioperca  americitna^  645 

Ludlow,  Cape,  Franz- Josef  Land,  205 

Luenga  river,  287 

Lufigi,  Luaha  or  Ruaha  river,  106 

Luiaa,  the,  349 

Li;genda  river,  South-cast  Africa,  482 

Lukah  river,  620 

Lukokoy  wire-grass.  East  Ontial  Africa, 

587 
Lulu  river.  West  Africa.  698,  699 
Luliia  river,  Africa,  164 
Lundgren,    W.   T.,    Harbour    Dictionary 

(New  Books),  50 
Lupton  Bey  and  the  Bahr-el-Ghozal,  482 

Mr.,  35,  381 

Lur  tribe,  the,  161 
Luscanny  Islands,  509 
Luseru  river,  521 
Lushai  Hills,  617 
Lusubu  or  Kazabu,  the,  174 
Lusugalu  stream,  522 


LND£X. 


779 


LutdU?  villaj?©,  West  Afiion,  703 

Luvubi  river,  287 

Luvumo  Valley,  521 

Liize,  Edouard  de,  The  Transr-ription  and 

Pronunciation  of  Foreign  Gec^graphical 

Names  (New  Books),  5t>7 
Lydiana,  the,  662 
Lynch,  Father,  406 
Lyons,  Admiral,  40 
Lyons  Geographical  Society,  medal  founded 

by,  427 

M. 

M-RriiDA  at  Magno,  520 

Ma«chu,  the  Eastern,  665 

Ma-Owamba  tribe,  285 

Ma-Hds,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 

Ma-Kwamba  tribe,  285 

Ma-Kwapa,  285 

Ma-lan  Yu  town,  China,  24 

Ma-Laya,  tribe  of  the  Znmbesi,  167 

Ma-Mbunda,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 

Ma-Nansa   or    Ma-Kalaka,  tribe  of   the 

Zambesi,  167 
Ma-Ntchoia,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 
Ma-Pingula,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 
Ma-Rutse    or   Ba   Botse,    tribe   of    the 

Zambesi,  167 
Ma-sam-pho  or  Nam-Yang  Harbour,  274 
to  Soul,  distance  ond  wtages 

from,  279 

villoge,  278 

Ma-Shnbia,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi,  167 
Ha-8hukulombwe,  tribe  of  the  Zambesi, 

167 
Ha-Totala,  tribe  of  the  Zambebi,  167 
Mabiire  river,  Africa,  268 
Mabija,    earthen    pots    of    water.    East 

Central  Africa^  588 
Macapata,  Bolivia,  314 
Haodonald,  Rev.  Duff,  Africana;  or,  the 

Heart  of  Heathen  Africa  (New  Books), 

182 
Macgregor,    Mnjor-Qeneral    Sir    0.    M,, 

Wanderings  in  Baloohistan (New Books), 

109 

Sir  Charles,  referred  to,  721 

Machanga  district,  the,  273 

Mackenzie  district,  633 

Mackenzie,  Mr.,  journey  of  road  between 

Ispahan  and  Shuster,  125, 126 
remarks  on  the  various  means 

of  communication  bet  ween  Cen  tvA  Persia 

and  the  sea,  130, 131 
Mackenzie  river,  634 
Mackenzie,    Sir  Alexander,    explorer    of 

Lake  Athabasca,  648     ' 
Mackinnon,  Mr.,  road  from  Dar-ea-Salaam, 

542 
Maclear,  Captain,  596 
MacMurray    Port   (CJlear   Water   river), 

number  of  inhabitants  of,  652,  653 
Moco,  Bolivia,  824,  329 
Maooun,  John,  Manitoba  and  the  Great 

North-West  (New  Books),  305 
Maconpi's  kraal,  274 


Macow,  channel  of  the  Sabi  delta,  273 
Mucquiirie,  J.  L.,  Journey  to  Madagascar 

(New  Books),  745 
Madagascar,  communications  on,  by  Bf. 

Romanet  du  Cuillaud  and  "M.  Gabriel 

Marcel,  .')5d 
Journey  to,  by  J.  L.  Mac- 

qnarie  (New  Books),  745 

Notes  on,  by  Laurent  Crcmazy 


(New  Books),  678 

South-west  of,  Noss-Vey  and 


the,  by  Rev.  8.  J.  Perry,  674 

'  surveys  of,  coasts  of,  595 


Madeira  Falls,  picture  writing  round,  345 

river.  Falls  of  the,  344 

Miididi    river,  tributary  of   river    Beni, 

Bolivia.  315.  322,  329 

village,  518 

Madre  de  Dios  river,  Bolivia,  332 
RIagadoxo,  Africa,  717 
Magdalena  river,  CJolombia,  261 
Magellan  Strait,  surveys  of,  594 
Mager,  M.  Henri,  map  by,  494 
Muggiore,  Lugo,  621,  622,  624 
Maguaghi,  Captain  G.  B.,  489 
Magole,  chief   of   Chilua,    East  Central 

Africa,  585 
Magpie^  the,  surveying  ship,  593 
Maguo,  519 
Magwangwara,  attacks  of  the  marauding, 

on  the  village  of  Msasi,  32 
Mahamadabacf,  ruins  of,  Persia,  79 
Mahedu  village,  519 
Major,  R.  U.,  letter  from  Boron  Norden- 

skiold  to,  473 
letter  from,  on  the  voyages 

and  map  of  the  Zeni,  725 
letter  from,   on   a  chart  of 

Greenland,  sent  by  P.  J.  Buyskes,  408 
letter  from,  on  '  the  Nono 

Colony  of  East  Bygd,  &c.,  294 
Maktla,   charcotil,    Ktuit    (Antral    Africa, 

587 
Makangwara  tribe,  raid  of  the,  397,  398, 

691 
Makanjirn,  East  Africa,  691 
Makoko,  king,  of  Stanley  Pool,  228 
Makonde  Hills,  the,  396 

tribe,  the,  402 

Makua  or  Welle  river,  34,  35 

Mftl-i-mir  Plain,    to    the    Karun    river, 

gradient  of  road  from,  153 
to  Kolehi-Tul,  Captain  Wells' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  149 
Malafu  drink,  the,  West  Central  Africa, 

579 
Malahide,  Lord  Talbot  de.  Obituary  of,  389 
Malakhof,   M.,  explorations  in  the  Urol, 

391 
Malanje,  district  of  Angola,  West  Africa, 

705 
Maliiveri  villaj^e,  E-istcr  Island.  40 
Malay  Archipelago  ond  Australia,  sum- 
mary of  progress  of  expeditions  in  the, 

384 
H.  O.  ForW  travels 

in  the  Eastern,  656 


780 


INDEX. 


Malay   Arclitpclagn  1o  Solonu'ii    I&Iandi^, 

chain  of  volcanoes  from  the,  512 
Malayan    Archipelago,     M.     Miklukbo- 

Maclay's  journeys  in  the,  4fi 
Maldonado,  Col.,  death  of,    referred    to, 

314 

Don  Foustino,  referred  to,  319 

Gregorio,  referred  to,  319 

Malema  river,  Africa,  719 

village,  Africa,  551 

Maliwanda,  Africa,  650,  G89 

chief,  689 

Maliwandii's  village,  site  for  station  of  Free 

Church  Mission  near,  290 
Mallard-Cressin,  M.,  niup  by,  494 
Malo  Karmakulsky  Bay,  Russian  station 

at,  390,  391 
Malte-Brun,V.  A.,  Map  of  French  Colonies 

in  America,  by  (New  Iklaiis).  750 
Map    of    the    relative 

positions  of  the  French  Colonies  in  Asia 

(New  Maps),  749 
Maltma  Valley,  Africa.  719 
Maluiido,  son  of  the  Sultan  of  Mumboia, 

582 
Malwallee,  Island  of,  hot  mud-spiing  on 

the,  90 
Maniasseni-Tiurs  tribe,  Ihe,  162 
Mtuuawi  or  MumttwuLake.North  America, 

640,  641 
Mambangd's  attack  on  the  Egyptian  stock- 
ade, 34 
Mambuia,  517 
tribes  living  round,  East  Central 

Africa,  581  ct  seq. 
Mamore-bey  Lake.  Bolivia,  324, 330 
Mamore  river.  Bolivia.  313,  326,  343,  347 
Man-zanik,  or  Bagh-i-ui.ilek  ruirns  150 
Manchuria,    progress    of    Colonel    Bara- 

basch's  ezpeditir>n  in,  174 
Mancini,  Samuel,  rtferrcd  to,  323 
Mand,  or  Kara-Aghatch,  by  Lientonant- 

C!olonel  E.  C.  Bus*",  712 
Mandara.  chief,  546 
Mandhar,  620 

Mang.i,  spring  at,  Persia,  72 
Mangaheri,  A  Visit  to  Wa-itumbn  Iron- 
workers at,  by  J.  T.  Last,  581  ct  seq. 
Mangasht  range,  the,  Persia,  119 
Mangi  race,  274 
Manitoba  and  tlio  Great  North-Wcst,  by 

Jolni  Slacoun  (New  Books),  305 
Manoun,  or  Maouna,    Island  of,    M.  de 

Langle  massacred  at  the,  426 
Mnnsarownr  Lake,  615 
Mansorah,  616 
Mansue,  gold  near,  38 
Muntell,  Lieutenant,  675 
Manyame,  or  Panyame  river.  Africa.  268 
Manynnga  station.  West  Africa,  574,  699, 

700,  711 
Map  Room  of  R.  G.  S.,  Report  of  the,  417 
Muperi  river,  Bolivia,  323 
Mapiri  river,  Bolivia,  337 
Maples,  Rev.  Chauncy,  397 
referred  to    on  the  Mavia  tribe, 

303 


Maps,  New — 

Africa,  55,  117,  }SU  248,  309,  376,  438, 
504,  629,  G86,  750 

America,  55,  184,  438,  630,  750 

Auiii,  54,  116,  184,  247,  375,  436,  502, 
568,  628,  684,  749 

AiiBtraloaJH,  310,  630,  750 

Edocntinnal,  56,  ;U2, 440,  504,  688, 752 

Europe,  51, 115,  183,  308,  373,  431, 500, 
568,  627,  683,  748 

Polar  Regions,  183 

World,  51,  115,  373,  683.  748 

Ordnance  Survey,  51, 1J5, 243,  373.136. 
501,  627,  749 

Atlases,  120,  312,  440.  504,  687 
Mapururauka,  Mount,  East  (jentrul  Africa, 

659,  690 
Blarazani  Inlet,  403 
Marcapata  Ravines,  Bolivia,  322 
Marcel,  M.   Gabriel,   oommmucafion  on 

Madagascar^  558 

work  by,  360 

Marcian  Heracleensis,  referred  to,  715 

Marguin,  M.,  496,  740 

Mari,  620 

Markham,  Captain,  letter   from,  to  Mr. 

Leigh  Smith,  226 

C.  R.,  .385,  612 

remarks  on  Notes  on  the 

Central  Provinces  of  Colombia,  266 

remarks  on   the   Second 


Vovage  of  the  i.'i/xi  to  Fianz-Joaef  Luid, 
226 

-  The  Basins  of  the  Amam- 


mayu  and  the  Beni,  313  et  $<q. 
Maruu.    Ernest,    death    of   the   African 

traveller,  605 
Muro  Wardwan  Valley,  616 
Marse  Mik  La,  India, *614 
Martin,  Joseph,  referred  to,  104 
Marun-kunku  ridge,  the,  Bolivia,  322 
Masai  Country,  J.  T.  Last* s  Joamey  in  the^ 

166 
language,    table    of    word^    and 

phrai-es  in  the,  531-538 
People,  A  Visit  to  the,  living  beyond 

the  borders  of  the  Nguru  Couutty,  by 

J.  T.  Lost,  517 

-  Notes  on  the,  their  Customa, 


&c.,  528  et  seq. 

■  tribe,  the,  166,  380,  523,  524 


Masanpho,  anchorage  of,  597 

Mosasi,  Uuiveraitiea'  Mission  station  at, 

rumour  of  destruction  of,  397 
Masaya  volcano.  Central  America,  670 
Mash-hod  1o  Afghanistan,  roads  from,  6 
Mashuna  Couutry,  Further  Exploratiou 

in  the,  by  F.  C.  Selous,  268,  2U9 
Masimbwa  Bay,  394 
Mason  Bey  on  the  railways  of  the  Soudan, 

299 
Massabe.  West  Africa,  71 1 
Masuri,  or  Mussoorie,  617 
Mata  Peak,  615 
Matakawa,  Africa,  719 
Mathews,  General,  542 
Matupe,  East  Africa,  692 


IXDEX. 


781 


MatoBchkin  Shar.  662 
Mattel.  Captain,  585 

photographs  of  the  Lower 

Niger  by,  558,  560 

-  journey  to  Lukoja  np  the 


Nile,  43 

Matynshin  Shar,  Novaya  Zemlyn,  213 

Mau  Shans.  the,  673 

Haudslay,  A.  P.,  45 

departure  of,   for  Guate- 
mala, 98 

Explorations  in  Guatemala 

and  Examination  of  the  newly  discovered 
Indian  ruins  of  Quirigati,  Tilcal,  and  the 
Usumftcinta,  185  et  sfj. 

•  travels  in  Guatemala,  385 


Maunoir.  M.  Oharles,  report  on  the  work 
and  progress  of  the  Pturis  Geographical 
Society,  44 

Hiiusolea,  the  Imperial,  east  of  Peking, 
Notes  of  a  Journey  to,  by  Frederick  S. 
A.  Bourne,  23  ft  seq. 

Imperial,  stone  figures  guarding 

the  road  in  the,  27  not^,  28 

Mausoleum  prepared  for  the  present 
Chinese  Empresses,  29 

Mavia  Uills,  the,  399 

or  Mabiha  tribe,  the,  393, 398-402 

words,  table  of;  403,  404 

Maviti  tribe.  397 

Mawega  Mlenga,  remarkable  rocks,  520 

Maxwell,  Staff-Commander,  594 

May  river,  North-west  Australia,  723 

Mayers,  W.  F.,  referred  to,  27  note,  28 

Mayo,  Earl  of,  A  Journey  from  Mossa- 
medes  to  the  river  Cun^nd,  S.W.  Africa, 
458  et  aeq. 

reply  to  Sir  Henry  Raw- 

linson's  questions,  472 

lilayu-tata  or  Amaru-mayu  river,  Bolivia, 
813 

Mazanderanis,  the,  described,  69 

Mbaratiani,  chief,  5U.  548 

Mharatien,  kraal  of,  548 

M'Clintock,  Sir  Leopold,  remarks  on  the 
Second  Voyage  of  the  Eira  to  Franz- 
Josef  Land,  224 

M'Nair,  Mr.,  expedition  into  Chitral,  552 

journey  of,  720,  733 

Mechow,  Major  von,  239 

Meda^  the.  surveying  ship,  593 

Meda  river.  North-west  Australia,  723 

Medals,  Public  Scliools  Prize,  announce- 
ment of  award  of,  290 

presentation 

of  the,  422 

-  Boyal,  announcement  of  award  of. 


296 


-——  presentation  of  the,  4l7rt  seq. 

Medellin,  route  to,  261 

Median  Magi,  the,  172 

Medina,  (General,  referred  to,  317 

Mediterranean,  Handbook  to  tlie,  by  Lieut- 
Colonel  B.L.  Plajfair  (New  Books),  182 

Sea,  the,  Italian  Deep-sea 

Explorations  in,  489 

Medlicott,  Mr.,  611 


Meenda  Ghur,  617 
Mehna  settlement,  Atak,  3 
Mei-yn-fu,  Province  of,  China,  442 
Mekhsas    to    Oz,    Lieut.-Col.     Boresford 

Lovett's  Itinerary.  62 
Mckinley  Island,  508 
Mekong,  the,  Original  Map  of  the  Ronto 

from  Bangkok    to    (Petermann's    Mit- 

Iheilungen)  (New  l^laps),  375 
Melanesia  Islands,  M.  Miklukho-Maclay's 

cruise  among  the,  47 
Melapi,  village  of,  92 
Blellx)un)e,  longitude  of,  taken  by  C.  E. 

Peek,  488 
Melville,  G.  W.,  Report  of,  in  connection 

with   the  Jeanru'ite    Expedition    (New- 
Books),  241 

Philip,  Obituary  of.  389 

Mcnangene  and  Chimsaka's,  country  be- 
tween, 395 
Menelik  II.,  King  of  Shoa,  495,  538 
Merka,  Africa,  717 
Mertvyknlduk.  Gulf  of,  392 
Bleru  Mount.! in,  547 
Merv-dasht  Plain,  Persia,  139 
^lerv  Oasis,  position  of  the  capital  of  the, 

561 

position  of,  43 

Salyraat,!! 

to  Ak  robat,  road  from,  7 

to    Herat,  route    from,    along    the 

Murghiib  river,  4 
Bleshdusharski  Island,  661 
Meshra  el  Rek,  483 
Mcslee,  M.  Martin  la,  communication  on 

Australia  Geographical  Society,  500 

referred  to,  10 1 

Mesny,  Major-General,  referre<l  to,  447 
Meatorf,  Miss,  letter  from,  496 
Meteorological  Expeditions  and  Stations, 
Polar  :— 

Anstro-Hungarian,  378,  486,  554 

British,  378 

Danibh,  166,  603 

Dutch,  166,  176,  378,  486,  556,  60.T 

German,  378,  555 

Norwegian,  378 

Russian,  231,  378,  390,  406 

Swedish,  378,  486.  554 

United  States,  378,  602 
Meteorolngie,  Grundziige  der,  by  H.  Mohn 

(New  Books),  242 
Metz,  Map  of  the  Neighbourhood  of  (New 

Maps),  115 
Slexico,  civilisation  of,  44 
and  Peru,  history  of  the  conquest 

of,  266 
To-day,  by  Thomas  Unett  Brockle- 

hurst  (New  Books),  241 
Meyer,  Dr.  A.  B.,  referred  to,  731 
M'Farlane  river,  640.  648 
Mfwa  village.  West  Africa,  575 
Mgomba,  chief  of  Kisanga  district,  Ejst 

Central  Africa,  582 
3fgic<imi,  bamboo.  East  Central  Africa,  588 
Mhadu,  village,  Africa,  551 
3Iian  Gul,  son  of  the  Akhoond  of  Swat,  552 


782 


IXDEX. 


Hiani's  lar^e  lako  south  of  Bakangai's,  36 
Miass,  valley  of  tlio,  limestODO  cave  iu 

the,  391 
Michailovsk,  Buy  of,  line  of  rails  laid'down 

from,  to  Bami,  12 
Miolioacan,  Province  of,  M.  Aug.  Tardy 'li 

mission  to,  559 
Mioo  Mountains,  the,  Guatemala,  189 
Micronesia,     Western     Islands,     Malay 

Archipelago,  47 
Microuedian  race,  the,  Malay  Archipelago, 

47 
Miete,  Lake,  552 
Miguillo,  Bolivia,  341 
Mikhailovsk  and  Bami,  difiBcnltics  with 

the  shifting  marl-dust  on  the  railway 

between,  20 
starting-point  of  the  Trans- 
Caspian  railway,  20 
Miklukho-Maclay,  M..  385,  511,  731 

cruise   among  (ho 


Melanesia  Islands,  47 


Australia,  47 


excursions 


into 


•  —  travels  in  the  Malay 
Peninsula  and  Archipelago,  46 

-  visit  to  the  Philip- 


pine Islands,  45,  46 
Miles,  Colonel,  544 
telegram  from,  of  Zanzibar, 

228 
Milhome,  M.  E.,  extract  of  letter  from,  103 
Miller,  General,  referred  to,  346 
referred  to  in  Markham's 

paper  on  the  Basins  of  the  Amaru-mayu 

and  the  Beni,  316,  320 
^lillot,  M.,  referred  to,  238 
Milne-Edwards,  M.  Alph.,  scientific  mis* 

don  iu  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  860,  661, 

740 
Mina  coast.  229 
Minkb,  town  of,  Persia,  124 
Minama  Strait,  vanilla  orchid  in  a  forest 

near,  260 
Minar,  or  shaking  tower,  Bostam,  Persia, 

79,80 
Minohin,  Mr.,  842 

work  in  South  America,  885 

Miongo  and  Miritu,  names  for  the  interior 

of  Africa,  287 
Mir  Batcha,  village,  157 
Mirambo,  chief,  165 
Mirza  Aga  Khan,  150 

Ali  Mohammed,  154, 155 

— —  Bakir,  governor  of  Bostam,  79 

Seyyid  Hassan,  Haji,  712 

Misere  s&eam,  Bolivia,  338 
Missi-Nipi  or  English  Kiver,  649,  650 
Mitchell,  Mujor-Genoral  J.  E.,  Obituary 

of,  389 
Mivini  Wiwa,  East  Africa,  690 

chief,  (i90 

"  Miyotinaw  "  river,  635 
Mkalani,  village  of,  Africa,  395 
Mkomazi,  village,  540 
Mkopoka  village,  400,  401 
Mlenji  river.  East  Africa,  398 


Mnagata  Plains.  542 

Moab,  Heth  and,  by  C.  B.  Gonder  (Kev 

Books),  742 

town  of,  675 

Moar  river,  46 

Mocos  valley,  347 

Mocro,  Lake.  651 

Moesi  river,  Sumatra,  657 

Moffat,  Rev.  Robert,  Obituary  of,  556 

Mohammera  and  Ahwaz,  the  river  Karon 

between,  132, 133 
to  Ispahan  vii  Shoster,  Hi. 

liaokenzie's  jouruey  from,  132 
Mohummerah  Port,  Persia,  125 
Mohn,  H.,  GrundzUge  der  Meteorologie 

(New  Books),  242 
The  Norwegian  North  Atlantie 

Expedition  1876-1878  (New  Books),  497 
Mo'is,  the  country  of  the,  173 
Mojave,  California,  668 
Moller    Bay,  Novaya    ZemljA,   Baasiaa 

(Western)  Meteorological  Station  at,  378 
Moloney,  Alfred,  despatch  from,  oontaiaing 

report  by  C.  Tiiompsoo,  37 
Mombasa,  Wakwafi  raid  on   the  district 

near.  289 
Momotombo    volcano,    Central    Amflrica 

670 
Monaco  (The  Monk)  Island,  726 
Monal,  Mount,  604 
Monass  Valley,  620 
Monbuttn  tril>e,  84 

Mondo,  French  Mission  station  at.  542 
Mongols,  Among  the,  by  Jomea  Gilmour 

(New  Books),  367 
**  Montagnais,"  name  for  the  Qhipewyan 

Tinney,  649 
Montano,  Dr.,  175 
Montelius,  Dr.,  Archseolc^ical  reeearchei 

of;  in  Oestergotland  and  Sk&ne,  178 

remarks  by,  49^  497 

Study  of  the  Archsecdogy 

of  Great  Britain,  47.  48 
Montemajor  Heights,  Patagonia,  85 
Montgomerie,  Colonel,  604 
Monyumera,    village    of,     East    Cential 

Africa,  583 
Moor-hen  Lake,  Athabasca  district,  649 
Moorwatha,  Parish  of.  New  South  Walet 

Government  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Moose,  the,  in  the  Athabaaca  district,  635, 

640 
Morebringer,  Parish  of,  New  South  Wal^ 

Government  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Moreno,  Sefior  Franohsco P.,  referred  to.  84 
Moresby,     Admiral,     remarks    on    Mr. 

Powell's  paper  on  Visits  to  the  Eastern 

and  Notth-eastem  OoBiaU  of  New  Guinea, 

515 

: Captain,  507 

Ishmd,  China  Straits,  507 

rrt.  New  Guiuca,  506 
Delniar,  382 

Be|x>rt    on   Bu£sian 

Geography  for  the  year,  3S9 
Morris,  Captain,  488 
Morriiion,  James,  104 


INDEX. 


783 


Ifomson,  M.  6.  E.,  rofened  to,  710 

Moechi,  village  of,  546 

Moshin-abad    sil    or  Bavas,  tributary  of 

the  Hari-nid  river,  10 
to  Kebriz,  country  between, 

10 
Mosionas,    M.,    communication    on    the 

Hade'ndoas,  299 
Mosira,  position  of,  551 
Mosquera,  General,  2G6 
Mosaamedes,  Bouth-west  Africa,  458,  696, 

706 
—. A  Journey  from,  to  the  river 

Gun^n^.  South-vest  Africa,  by  the  Earl 

Mayo,  458  et  seq. 
Mossel  Bay,  Spitzbergon,  209 
Motagua  Valley,  the.  Guatemala,  188 
Motjewewo  Island,  97 
Monhot,  M.,  referred  to,  457 
Mountain  rapid,  Athabasca  river,  637 

river  portage,  the,  634 

Mouret,M.,Co8mographical  Pendulum,  502 
Moxos,  country  of  the,  Bolivia,  316 
Moyana,  Seaor  0.  M.,  referred  to,  89 
Mozambique  to  Lake  Bhirwa,  Mr.  O'Neill's 

expedition  from,  482 
Mozufferabad,  India.  611,  616,  619 
Mpagani  village,  Africa,  551 
Mpdad  river,  West  Africa,  571,  697 
Mpumo  Ntaba,  chief.  West  Africa,  706 
Mpwapwa.  garden  of  vegetables  at,  539, 541 
Msongbi  Mountain,  East  Central  Africa, 

581 
Msuata  Station,  West  Africa,  577,  580, 

703 
Mtarika's  village,  Africa,  395 
Mtesa,  King,  reported  death  of,  428,  479, 

719 
Mtumbu  river,  403 
Mtumbwi  river,  outflow  of  Nangadi  Lake, 

396 
Muanda,  West  Africa,  695 
Muata  Yanvo,  the,  381 

Yanvoe,  the,  163 

Mudapu  iron  ore.  East  Central  Africa,  587 
Mudirie  Bohl,   Originalkarte   der  Beise 

des  Dr.   Emin  Bey  durch  die  (Peter- 

manu's  Mittbeilungen)  (New  Maps),  50i 
Mullens  Harbour  to  China  Straits,  coast 

from,  507 
Mullens,  Bev.  Dr.,  map  of  Madagascar,  429 
Miiller,  C,  Klaudiou    Ptulemaiou    GrL-o- 

graphike  Huphegesis  (New  Books),  499 

■—'  M.,  173 

Mliller-Beeck,  Herr  P.  G.,  referred  to,  722 
Munchique,  Clerro,  views  from  the  top  of 

the,  263 
Mundombes  tribe,  the,  South-wrat  Africa, 

460 
Munhanecas  tribe,  the,  South-west  Africa, 

463 
Munhino  river.  South-west  Africa,  461 
Munich,    Geographical    Society  of.   Pro- 
ceedings of,  November  9th,  1882,  239 

November  23id,  1882,  239 

Deoemljer  9th,  1882,  239 

December  2l8t,  1882,  239 


Munich,  Geographical  Society  of,  Proceed- 
ings of,  January  16th,  1883,  239 

January  25th.  1883,  239 

February  8th,  1883,  239 

February  23rd,  1883,  240 

3Iunipur  Bange,  Eastern  ana  Western,  617 

Valley,  G17,  619 

Munk,  Jens,  564 

Navigatio    Septentrionalis, 

(New  Books),  680 

Munkambo  Lake,  Africa,  164 

Murdia,  739 

Murdiari,  country  of,  561 

Murgh&b  and  the  Hari-nid,  country  be- 
tween the,  4 

Murillo,  General,  266 

Murray- Aynsley,  Mrs.  J.  C,  Our  Tour  in 
Southern  India  (New  Books),  368 

Murray,  John,  594 

■ • ,  A  Handbook  for  Travellers 

in  Denmark  (New  Books),  564 

Mursoude  tribe,  717 

Musbirongos  tribe.  West  Africa,  694, 706 

Musjid-i-bardi,  163 

Mu8s4ra,  West  Africa,  693 

Mussoorie  or  Masilr^  617 

Mussuea,  West  Africa,  C97 

Mustagh  explained,  India,  614 

Bange,  India,  611 

Musters,  Lake,  Patagonia,  87 

Musters,  Lieut.,  referred  to  in  connection 
with  Mr.  Dumford's  explorations  in 
Central  Patagonia.  86 

Mutiki  river,  Africa,  268 

Mutis,  Dr.,  266 

Mu-yansi  tribe,  West  Africa,  707 

Mwamasi,  chief  of  Mouyumera,  East 
Central  Africa,  583 

Mwandi,  518,  519 

Mwembera's  Valley,  Mr.  Stewart's  station 
in,  290 

Mwendazi,  403 

Mwidi  river,  399 

N. 

Nabasba,  or  Naivash  Lake,  East  Central 

Africa,  604 
Nag  Tiba,  617 
Naga  Hills,  617,  620,  624 
Nahuel  Huapi,  Lake,  722 
Nahun,  620 

Nain  Singh,  the  Pundit,  384,  664,  665 
Naivash,  Lake,  hot  spring  near,  658 
or  Nabasha  Lake,  East  Central 

Africa,  604, 719 
Nak-chu-ka  river,  Tibet,  664,  665 
Nam-kung,   or    **  Soutljeru    Palace "    at 

Soul,  283 
Nam-pyol-kung,   or  "Southern  separate 

Pakce"atSoHl,283 
Nam- Yang,  or  Mu-sam-pho  harbour,  274, 

275 
Nam-Yang-pu     and     Su-wiin-pu,     road 

between,  280 

village,  278 

Nampa  Peak,  615 


784 


INDEX. 


Namnli  Hills,  Africa,  719 

— Peak,  Africa,  719 

Namuroli  village,  Africa,  551,719 

Kan-tai-mun,  the,  282 

Nanda  Devi,  604 

Nandadevi  Peak,  615 

Nanga  Purbet,  615,  623 

Nangadi  Lake,  Africa,  396 

Nanotragus  tragulus^  South-west  Africa,  464 

Naosbera  Dhan,  623 

Napier,  Major  tlie  Hon.  George,  127 

referred  to,  65,  66,  68,  79 

. referred   to,    in   connection    with 

the  milwuy  from  A&kabad  to  Saraklis, 
13 

Napier  Range,  North-west  Australia,  722 

Nare,  Colombio,  261 

Nares,  Sir  George,  Remarks  on  the 
Second  ■Vo)'ago  of  tlie  Eu-a  to  Frauz- 
Josef  Land.  224 

Narghiz,  Lake,  Persia,  129 

Nargis,  or  Tasht,  Lake,  142 

Narko,  village  of,  541 

Nata,  village  of.  541 

Natal,  Our  Colony  of,  by  Walter  Peace 
(New  Books),  745 

Nathorst,  Dr.  A.  Q.,  364,  6()2 

Natiaka  village.  East  Africa,  398 

"Natowdja"  river,  North  America,  646 

Naurek  settlement,  Attik,  2i 

Naurfiz-abdd,  Persian  fort,  5 

Navigutio  Septcntrioiialis,  by  Jena  Munk 
(New  Books),  080 

Ndapdak  or  Ntapluk  Mountain,  547 

Ndara,  Church  Missionary  station  at,  545 

to  Paro,  Thomson's  march  from,  550 

Nduba,  vilbge,  518 

Neale,  Dr.,  referred  to,  208, 221 

Nechi  and  Porce  rivers,  the  country  south 
of  the.  254 

Negro  river,  Bolivia,  328 

Negui  river,  richness  of  gold  in  the,  251 

Nefe,Dr,173 

journey  in  Laos,  429 

Nejifabnd  village,  144 

Nepoko  river,  or  Stanley's  Aruwimi,  35 

Neptune,  the,  378 

Nerfe,  Lake,  Persia,  129 

— — A  Journey  round,  by  Captain 

Wells,  138 

town  of,  Persia,  141 

Neumann,  Guslav,  Geographical  Lexicon 
of  the  Gcrmau  Kingdom  (New  Books), 
498 
New,  Charles,  380 
New  Britain  Itsland,  505 

. volcanoes  of,  511 

New  Caledonia,  collections  from,  brought 
by  M.  Lequos,  230 

Granada,  or  Colombia,  249,  265 

Guinea,  An  Kxcursion  in  the  Interior 

of,  Letter  from  W.  G.  Lawea  on,  355 

nrea  of,  515 

colonial  expeditions  to,  656 

committee    formed    for    pro- 
moting explorations  in,  656 
Dutch  aettlementa  of,  516 


New  Guinea,  London  MiBsionaiy  Society 

at,  507 

by  Coutta  Trotter,  670 

Visits   to   the   Intern  and 

North  •  eastern   coasts    of,    by  Wilfred 

Powell,  505  et  seq. 
' volcanoes  of  the  island  gnnq> 

east  of,  511 

Ireland,  505 

South  Wules  Geographical  Societj, 

656 

-— Government     Mmm 

(New  Maps),  £10 


506 


pearl-shell  trade  oC 

postal  map  of,  Nev 
South  Wales  Government  Maps  (New 
Maps),  310 

—  Zealand  and  Iceland,  On  the  Hot 
Springs  of,  with  notes  on  Maori  customs, 
by  Cuthbert  £.  Peek,  667 

map   oh     by    Dr.   Jamea 


and 


Hector  (New  Maus),  750 
Newala,  village,  Afiica,  397 
Newfoundland,    by    Joseph    Hatton 

Rev.  M.  Harvey  (New  Books),  241 
the  oldest  British  colony, 

by  Joseph  Hatton  and  Rev.  M.  Harvey 

(New  Books),  305 

surveys  of  coasts  of,  394 


Nga-liema,  chief,  288 
Ngambo,  South-east  Africa,  482 
Ngare  na  Erobi,  478,  547,  548,  549 

Nyuki  Plain,  548 

Ngo-su,  Lolo  or  Lo-sn  people,  the,  China, 

445 
Ngoje,  region  of.  West  Africa,  693 
Ngoma,  Falls  of.  West  Africa,  573,  699 
Nguru  Hills,  the,  541,  542 
Ngurumnni,  549 

Ni-hyon,  or  "  Mud  Mound,"  283 
Niari  river,  710 
Nichol,  Mrs.,  death  of,  692 
Nielsen,  Dr.  Yngvar,  Round  Norway  from 

Tistedalen  to  Jakobselven  (New  J^ks), 

241 
Nicvre,  Department  of  the,  map  of  tlie,  557 
Niger,  Explorations  in  the  basin  of  the, 

551 

M.  Mattel's  journey  up  the,  43 

the  French  on  the,  36 

Upper,  Progress  of  the  French  on 

the.  484 
Nikaramand,  village  of,  Persia,  80 
Nile,  Blue,  original  map  of  Jur.n  Maria 

Sohuver's    Explorations   on  the    (New 

Mails),  629 

Upper,  695 

NimriiJ  torrent,  Persia,  66 

Mindiri  volcano.  Central  America,  670 

Nipal,  616 

Niasen,  M.  P.  Schjeldemp,  map  by,  360 

Nistaukam  (Mustuch  or  Bison)  river,  635 

Nizam-ed-dm-khan  or  Akhund-zildeb,  the 

ruler  of  Herat,  7,  8 
Nlzwa  mountain,  Persia,  70 
Nkulukumba  stream,  519 


IXDEX. 


785 


Nodnama  and  Tadu  tribes  of  the  Snn  Juan 
valley,  255 

Nodun  tn  Kazeran,  distance  from,  ICl 

Noirot,  M.,  173 

Nomayo  or  Bomokdndi  river,  31 

NordeDskiold,  Baron  A.  E.,  165,  209,  222, 
563,  564,  602,  733 

intended  expedition  to  Green- 
land, 231,  363 

diaooyery  of  an  ancient  map 

in  IceLitid  by,  473,  556 

Greenland  Expedition    of, 


485,  602 
473 


•  letter  from,  to  R.  H.  Major, 


-  On    the    Brothers     Zeno's 
Travels  (New  Books),  372 

On  the  Expeditions  of  the 


Dijmp'tna  and  Vanvty  176 

Vega     Expeditions 


(New 

Books),  625 
Noi-denskiGld,  the,  97. 176, 406,  555.  604, 661 
Norman,  FortjIiOwerBf&ckenzie  river,  636 
Norman,  Sir  Henry,  remarks  on  M.  P.  M. 

Lessar's  second  journey  in  the  Tarko" 

man  Goontry,  21 
Normanby  Island,  ^ndenr  of,  508,  509 
Norse  colonise,  ancient,  in  Greenland,  160 
Colony  of  East  Bygd,  letter  from 

Mr.  Major  on,  294 
North  Sea,  coasts  of  the,  sketoh>map  of, 

by  L.  Halenbeck  (New  Maps).  683 
North-west  Territories,  general  map  of  part 

of  the,    Department   of  the   Interior, 

Ottawa  (New  Maps),  439 
Norway,  geological  map  of  (New  Maps), 

183 

map  of  (New  Mtips),  183 

■  round,  from  Tistednlen  to  Jakobs- 

olven,   by  Dr.  Yngvar  Nielsen  (New 

Books),  241 

Topographical     map    of    (New 


Maps),  183 

—-  Travel-map  of  North  (New  Blaps), 


184 


Norwegian    North  Atlantic   Expedition, 

the,    1876-1878,    by    H.    Mohn    (New 

Books),  179,  497 
No3S-Vey  Island,  674 
Noumea  (New  Caledonia).  236 
Nourse,  Professor  J.  R.  430 
Novah,  village  of,  Persia,  66 
Novaya  Zemlya,  the  Bout  Jonmoy  to,  the 

crew  of  the  Eitn,  218 
warehoiue     for     storing 

goods  in,  407 
Nuvita,  town  of,  Colombia,  255 
Nowgong  Hills,  617 
Noye  Rapid,  Athabasca  river,  637 
Ntombo  Mataka,  Falls  of.  West  Africa,  700 
Jfukongoi,  thorny  treea.  518 
"Nuns,  Palace  of  the,"  well   preserved 

palace  iu  Yucatan,  45     . 
Niir  river,  Persia,  62 
Nuradabad  to  Nodun,  distance  fro;n.  161 
"  Nubir-ul-Mulk,'*  the  Governor  of  B.-h- 

behan,  159 

No.  XII.— Dbc.  1883.] 


JS'itvukuto,  bellows  used  in  working  iron. 

East  Central  Africa,  588 
Nyak  Tso,  614 
Nyangwd,  Africa,  705 
NyassR,   Lake,   Rppoiutracnt  of   Captaia 

C.  E.  Foot  as  British  Consul  at,  659 
and  Bangweolo  Lakes  and  river 

Zambesi,  Mr.  Stewart's  discoveries  vloOg 

the  watershed  of  the,  658 

•  nnd  Tanganyika,    communication 


between  the  la^cs,  290 

Lake,    and    the    neighbourhood. 


recent  news  from,  32 

-  new  expedition  to  the  east  df^ 


■  Survey  of  the  Eastern  0>ast 


228 


of,  and  latest  news  of  the"  Lake-Junctida 
Road,"  by  James  Stewart,  689 

Nynee  Tal  Peak,  604 

Nystrom,  Juan  G.,  referred  to,  323 

Nzogi,  538 

O. 

Obi,    Gclp    of,  Russian  Hydrographical 

Expedition  to  the,  175 
progre:iS  of  steam  navigation  in  the 

basin  of  the,  174 
Ofji,  steamer,  406,  555,  603.  661 
Obituary  List  for  1882-3.  388 
Obock,  Enst  Africa,  494 
Moscate,  Bouchire,  Bassorah,  by 

Denis  do  Rivoyre  (New  B<x>ks),  432 
to  Shoo,  caravan  of  French  goods 

from,  558 
Oceanin,    The    Island  Groups  ofi  by  A. 

Bastian  (New  Books),  49 
Ochroma  piscatoria  ^balsa  tree),  rafts  made 

from  the,  335 
Oder,  sketch-map  of  (New  Maps),  568 
O'Donovau,  Mr.,  13 
remarks  on  M.  P.  M. 

Lessar's  Second  Journey  iutheTurkomau 

country,  20 
Oestergotland  and  Skane,  Dr.  Montelius* 

archnological  researches  in«  178 
Oesterley,  Dr.  Hermann,  Historisch-geo- 

graphischea  Worterbuch  des  deutschen 

Mittehilters  (New  Books),  109 
Oestvaag  Bay,  663 
Ogilvy,  John,  An  Account  of  Bermuda 

Past  and  Present  (New  Books),  498 
Ogowe,  Congo,  nnd  Niari,  map  to  illustrate 

M.  de  Bruzza's  journey  on  the  (New 

MapsX  55 

river,  West  Africa,  695,  704 

OiknI.  India,  614 

Ojibbeways,  the,  North  American  InJiang, 

649 
Oka  river,  the,  561 
Oldham,  Lieutenant,  599 
Olciboni,  Masai  man,  525 
Olf/ira^  dress  of  Masai  women,  530 
Oliphant.  Mr.  lAwrenoe,  referred  to  by  Sir 

Thomas  Wade,  455 
Oliver,  Professor,  259 
Olmagiti,  dress  of  Masai  men,  529 

3  w 


796 


INDEX.  1 


Oloneiz,  see  (New  Books)  10 
Omar  Tusof,  chief,  717 
Ometepec  volcano,  Central  America,  670 
Omi,  Mount,  421 
Omsk,  Gentiil  Asia,  669 
OlireiU,  H.  £.,  grants  of  instruments  to, 
415 

Journey  in  the  District  West  of 

Cape  Delgado  Bay,  898  et  seq. 
progress  of  Expedition  of. 


,.-„ .- -.,  from 

Mozambique  to  Lake  SLirwa,  482,  551, 
719,  780 

-  referred  to,  228,  382,  691 


Oranais,  South,  and  Tunis,  maps  of,  557 
"Orang-outangs,"  or    forest-men  of   the 

Malay  Peninsula,  46 
Orange  Bay,  Frrach  Meteorological  Mis- 
sion to,  560 

river,  Africa,  696 

Ordoanoe  Survey  Maps  (New  Maps),  51, 

115,243,  378,436,501,627 

— — Index  Map  (New  Maps), 

116,  374,  875,  502 
Oreas  oattna  found   near    Gambos   river, 

South-west  Africa,  464 
Orientalists,  International  Congress  of,  at 

Leyden,  290 
Orkneys  and  Shetland,  The,  their  past  and 

present  state,  by  J.  B.  Tudor   (New 

Books),  431 
Orta,  Lago  d',  621,  622 
Orton,  Professor,  referred  to,  323 
Orton  river,  Bolivia,  333 
Osthanes,  Chi«^f  Magus,  172 
Otchivemba  Mountain,  South-west  Africa, 

464 
Other-side  river,  Athabasca  district,  645 
Oukawa,  M^  on  the  Society  of  Political 

Economy  and  Statistics  at  Tokio,  559 

Secretary  of  Japanese   Legation 

at  Paris,  429 

Ovampo-Land,  Dr.  0.  Hopfner's  explora- 
tion of,  659 

Ovampoa  tribe.  North,  South-west  Africa, 
466 

Owen  Stanley,  Captain,  515 

Owen  Stanley  Mount,  H.  Forbes*  projected 
scientific  expedition  to,  408 

Kange,  New  Guinea,  507, 671 

Owithya,  game  at,  South-west  Africa,  464 

Oxen  river.  North  America,  647 

Oxus,  ancient  bed  of  the,  430,  561 

— r-  river,  the,  14, 172 

Oz  to  B&lddeh,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Beres- 
ford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  C2 

P. 

Pablo-bamba  and  Tambopata  rivers,  junc- 
tion of  the,  Bolivia,  322 
Pacavara  Indians,  the,  329 
Pacayn,  volcano  of.  Central  America,  670 
Pacific  Ocean,  Western,  surveys  of,  599 

The    Western,   by  Walter  Coote 

(New  Books),  746 

Padam,  616 

Padus  river,  Borneo,  721 


Padrao,  Point,  West  Africa,  694 
Palacios,  Don  Agustin,  referred  to,  323 
Palang  Durwaz,  or  "Panther's  Portid," 

Persia,  63 
Polawa  Peak,  Africa,  719 
Palembang  Biesidency,  the,  657 
Palestine  and   Lebanon,  map  ol^  by  L. 

Thuillier  (New  Maps),  686 
by  Lndovic   de    Vaux    (New 

Books),  567 

■  Eastern,  Beport  of  the  CSommit- 


tee  for  Promoting  the  Survey  of,  675 
H.  Kiepert's  Yolksechul-Wimd- 


karte  von  (New  Mane),  504 

■  map  of,  by  T.  B.  Johnston  (New 


Maps),  628 

new  Wall-map  of,  by  H.  Eiepert 

(New  Msps),  436 

Western,  Survgr  of,  by  Oaptain 


Conder  and  Captain  mtchencr,  edited 
by  W.  Besant  (New  BooksX  304 
Pallaballa,  manners  and  customs  of  the 
people  of;  West  Africa,  572 

vegetation  round.  West  Africa, 


-,  village  of.  West  Africa,  571 


573 


Palraett  Fountain,  South-west  Afrua,  4(i3 

Palo  Grande  Bapid,  Bolivia,  334 

Palong  river,  46 

Panama  Canal,  the,  by  Hugo  ZoUer  (New 
Books),  49 

,  Isthmus  of,  canal  of  the,  265 

Pangkong  Lake,  614 

Pan^  La,  the,  617 

Panjab  river,  618 

Punjgur,  720 

Panyame,  Hanyame,  or  Manyame,  Africa, 
168.  268 

Papua,  Gulf  of,  cannibalism  among  iso- 
lated tribes  of  the,  506,  507 

unhealthineas  ot,  806, 516 

Paquier,  M.  J.  B.,  175 

Paradisea  ruggiana,  356 

Parang  Pass,  616 

Paris    Geographical    Society,    announce- 
ment of  distribution  of  prizes  of,  174 

'  ■ " of,  distribu- 

tion of  prize  medals  to  suooessfnl  tia- 
vellers,  358 

— —_ Proceedings 

of,  December  Ist,  1882,  43 

15th,  1882,  44 

January  5th,  1883, 102 

■  19th,  1883,  105 


February  2nd,  1883,  173 

16th,  1883,  174 

March  2nd,  1883,  235 

16th,  1883,  237 

April  6th,  1883.  297 

20th,  1883.  358 

May  4th,  1883,  360 

18th,  1883,  42G 

Juno  Ist,  1883.429 

15th,  1883,  494 

July  6th,  1883,  557 

. 20th,  1883,  560 

November  9th,  It  83,  736 


INDEX. 


787 


Paris  to  Japan,  by  way  of  Siberia,  by  Ed- 

mond  Cotteau  (New  Books),  301 
Pariah,  Sir  WooUbine,  referred  to,  347 
Parker-Snow,  Mr.,  560 
Parmentier,  J.  and  B.,  Collection  of  Yoy- 

Bgea  from  the  13th  to  the  16th  Century 

(New  Books).  499 
Pare,  617 

Paropamiaos  range,  7, 12 
Pas-ae-bout  Bapid,  Athabasca  river,  687 
Pa£Coe,  Lientenani,  600 
Pasion,  Bio  de  la,  Guatemala,  191, 196 
Paso  de  Yachilan,  Guatemala,  197 

Beal,  Goutemala,  191, 196 

Pa88ierPoint,512,518 
Passoemah  Lands,  the,  Sumatra,  657 
Patagonia,  Central,   Mr.Dumlbrd's  Ex- 
plorations in,  84  ft  seq. 
Terta  del  Fuoco,  Marl  Australi, 

par  Giacomo  Bove  (New  Books),  112 
Pateraon,  J.  W.,^  map  of  North  Formosa 

(New  Maps),  54 
Patia,  Mr.  White's  exploration  of  the  river, 

258.259 

river.  Colombia,  249,  260,  261 

Patterson,  J.  W.,  map  of  North  Fotmoea, 

177 
Pauoartambo,  forests  of;  BpUvia,  317, 318 
PatettacoHeacens^  2$7 
Pavk)fsky  Ubeervatory,  the,  390 
Payer,  Captain,  referred  to,  222,  225 
Peace,  Beaver  or  "Dea  Castors"  river, 

634 
river,    estuary     of    the,     North 

America.  642,  643 
Peace,  Walter,  Our  Colony  of  Natal  (New 

Books),  745 
Pearl-shell  trade  in  Torres  Straits,  506 
PechUi,  Gulf  of,  a>ina,  23 
Pechura  region,  891 
Peohuel-Loesche,  Herr,  communication  on 

King  Makoko,  288 
on  the  geography 

of  the  Congo,  286 
Pedra  Grande.  South-west  Africa,  460 

Providenoia»    South-west    Africa, 

460 

Peek,  C.  E.,  A  Few  Longitudes  taken  by, 

488 
The  Cuthbert  Peek  Grant,  award 

of,  297 

On  the  Hot  Springs  of  Iceland  and 

New  Zealand,  667 

■         Visit  of,  to  Queensland,  to  view  the 

Transit  of  Venus,  488 
Pehlevi  Bnndchesh,  quoted  in  reference  to 

the  Budgheis,  15 
Pei-t'any  or  Chi-yiin  Ho  river,  China,  23 
Peking  population  of,  454 
Pelican  river  ("Tsatsakin  Sipi  "),  635 
Pelicans,  Isle  of.  West  Africa,  698 
Pembimi  or  "  Nipi-mina  "  river,  635 
Penck,  Dr.,  239 
Pendama-teuka,  230 
Penning,  W.  Henry,  A  Guide  to  the  Gold- 

fielda   of  South  Africa  (New  Books), 

498 


Perak,  by  M.  Bran  de   Saint-Pol    Lias 

(New  Books),  305 
Mines  of  the  State  of,  by  A^.  de  la 

Croix  rtJew  Books),  381 
Peralta,  Don  Manuel  M.  de,  inedited  docu- 
ments relating  to  Sir  Francis    Drake, 

published  by,  407 
Pereira,  Bicardo  S.,  The  United  States  of 

Colombia  (New  Books),  806 
Perrier,  Colonel,  494 
Perry,  Be  v.  S.  J.,  on  Noss-Vey  and  the 

South-west  of  Madagasoar,  674     - 
Persepolis  range^  Persia,  143 
Persia,  Central,  and  the  Sea,  On  the  various 

Means  of  Communication  between,  bv 

CoL  J.  U.  Bateman  Champain,  um^  121 

€t  $eq. 
geological  formation  of  mountains 

in,  149 

-  importance  of  Bussian  oommtmica- 


tica  with.  122 
large  tracts  of  unexplor^  oonntry 

in,  129 
loss  sustained  by,  through  deCeotive 

means  of  transport  for  goods.  127 

North,  Bossian  merchants  in,  171 

Northern,  Itinerary  Notes  of  Booto 

Surveys  in,  in  1881  and  1882,  by  Lient.- 

CoL  Beresford  Lovett,  B.B.,  cal,  57  et 

aeq. 

-  discossions  on,  169 


South,  English  trade  in,  134 

South-western,   changeableness   of 

temperature  of,  156 
Idr.     Baring    and 

Captain  Wells'  journeys  in,  128, 129 
•  Southern,  Surveying  Tours  in,  by 


Captain  H.  L.  WelLs,  B.K.,  138  €i  m?. 
-  the  competitive  trade  routes  between 


North  and  South,  130, 131 
— —r  the   Shah    of,  visit  to  England 
referred  to,  137, 138 

to    Enrraobee,     telegraph     line 


through,  138 
Persian  Gulf,  trade  in  the,  135 
Persians,  the,  love  of  money,  128 
Person,  M.  A.,  495 
Peru,  by  Antonio  Baimondi  (New  Books), 

306 
Pesh-rob&t  (Toman- AghaX  10 
Petchora  Sea,  ice  in  the,  661.  662 
Peten,  Lake  of,  Guiitemala,  191 
Petermann.  A.,  Wall-map  of  Germany  (New 

BooksX  183 
Petersen,  M.,  referred  to,  74 
Petit,  M.  L.,  e;tcuraion  of,  to  the  river  Chilo- 

ango,  175 
PeUton,  M..  428 
Petitot,  L'Abbe,  announcement  of  the  Back 

grant  awarded  to,  297,  422 
Back  prize  awarded  to,  1883, 

361 
Emile,     Letter    from,    on    the 

Athabasca  District,  728 
Bev.    Emilo,  On  the  Athabasca 

district   of    the    Canadian    North-wei.t 

Territory,  633  rt  s^g. 

3  r  2 


788 


INDEX. 


Peulhs,  The,  by  J.  de  Orozala  (New  Books), 

371 
Philippine  Negritos,  the,  46 
Phipson-Wybrants,    Cfeptain  T.   L.,    The 

Delta  and  Lower  Gotunse  of  the  Sabi  rixer, 

27 
illness  and 

death  of,  274 
Pietri,  M.,  178 
Piloomavo  river,  49G 
Pilip  village,  157 
Pinabol.  Pere,  427 
Pifli-pini  river,  Bolivia,  319 
Pioneer ^  the,  599 
Pir  QixAxx  Knh  mountain,  Porsia,  77 

Panjal,  the,  India,  612 

Panjal-Dhaoladhar  Ridge,  the,  explana- 
tion of,  616 
Pir-i>zan  Kotul,  Persia,  152 
Piatsphaltum  areniferwn,  639 
Pishirt    to  Obaman-i-Manga,    Lieat.-Ckil. 

Beiesford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  72 
Pisog^  hill,  Colombia,  262 
Plata,  Rio  de  la,  Surveys  of,  594 
Playfair.  Lieut-Col.  R.  L.,  Handbook  to 

tlie  Mediterranean  (New  Books),  182 
Pleyte,  M.  W.,  290 
Pliny,  Onesicritus  referred  to,  715 
Plowden,  Mr.,  on  desirability  of  a  railway 

between  Baghdad  and  Khanakin,  124 
Plymouth  Rock,  Station   of  the  London 

Missionary  Society,  165 
Po  river,  621 
Poggp,  Dr.,  381 
and    Lieutenant    Wissmann, 

Journey  across  Africa,  163 
Poinsot,  M.  Julien,  map  of  a  Reconnais- 
sance in  the  Central  Region  of  Tunis 

(New  Maps),  686 
Pola,  the.  486.  554,  555 
Poland,  Rcymann'd  Map  of  (New  Maps), 

683 
Polar  Expeditions,  Russian,  390 

Meteorological      Expeditions     and 

Stations : — 

Austro-Hungarian.  378, 486,  554 

liritish,  378 

Danish,  166,  603 

Dutch,  166, 176,  378,  486,  556,  603 

German,  378,  555 

Norwegian,  378 

Russian,  231,  378,  390,  406 

Swedish,  878,  486.  554 

United  States,  378,602 
Regions,  North^  Observatories  of  the, 

377,  378 
Pole-,  North.  Lands  of  the  (New  Maps),  183 
Poliakoff,  M.,  referred  to,  105 
Polo,  Marco,  referred  to,  447 
Polochic,  Rio,  Guatemala.  189 
Poncet's  Birket  Metuasi,  35 
Pond,  Peter,  explorer  of  Lnko  Athabasca, 

648 
Ponta  da  Lcnha  settlement.  West  Africa, 

6l>7,  704 
Ponia-Negra,  West  Coast  of  Africa,  361 
Poonch,  620 


Pojniiiu  balstmifera,  647 

Puree,  valley  of  the  river,  250 

Poi'cupine,  the.  surveyiug  ship,  593 

Porto  Rico,  Bolivia,  389 

Portuguese,  Discoveries,  Wars,  oad  On- 

quests  of  tlio,  beyond  the  seas  in  the  ISth 

and  16th  centuries,  by  A.  K  de  Betteo- 

court  (New  Books),  434 
Expedition  to  Umzeila's  country, 

S3,  381,  405 
Possession  Bay,  New  Guinea,  508 
Potagoe,  Dr.,  35 

Potsnine,  M.,  journey  in  (Thina,  430 
Potek  road  on  St.  John's  map,  159 
Poti  on  the  Black  Sea  and  Tiflis,  raUway 

between,  122 
to  Baku  and  Persia,  English  goods 

passing  through,  135, 136 
Pottinger,  Mr.,  referred  to,  721 
Potwar,  the.  620,  623 
Powell,  Wilfred,  referred  to,  731 

travels  in  New  Guinea,  384 

Yisito  to  the  Eastern  and 

North-eastern  Coasts  of  New  Guinea, 

505  et  aeq. 

Wanderings     in    a  Wild 


Country  (New  BooksX  433 
Prah  river,  mode  of  crossing  the,  38 
Prallert,  Herr  Emil,  letter  from,  to  Secre- 
tary of  Hamburg  Geographical  Society, 
respecting  Dr.  Fiaohei^s  expedition,  478 
Prejevalsky,  Colonel,  664,  733 

Expedition  under,  to  survey 

frontier  between  Siberia  and  Mongc^ 
175 

New  Expedition  to  Asia,  552 

■  Third  Jourueyof,  to  Gentrtl 


AsU,  495 

Third   Journey  to    Central 


Asia  (New  Books),  431 

-  Colonel,  work  and  journeys  of. 


43 
Pressburg,    Karte  dcs    Komitates  (New 

Maps),  51 
Price,  Dr.  John,  referred  to,  222 
Prins,  M.  Alex.,  referred  to,  738 
Proteus,  the,  602,  733 
PrSven,  the  jagt,  97 
Providence  Island.  596 
Prussia,  G^logical  Map  of  tlie  Province 

of  (New  Maps),  308 
West,  new  map  of  the  Province 

of  (New  Maps),  115 
Prussian  States,  MesstisohbUitter  des  (Now 

Maps),  184 
Piyer,    W.    B.,    Notes  on    Nortli-eastem 

Borneo  and  the  Sulu  Islands,  90  et  »eq. 

—— travels  in  North  Borneo,  384 

Ptolemy,  referred  to,  715 

Ptolemy's  Geography,  by  C.  Muller  (New 

Books),  499 
Public    Schools     Prizes     Examinations, 

notice  of  tlie,  168 
result 

of,  290 
PublioatioDs  of  R.  G.  S.,  report  of,  414, 

415 


INDEX. 


789 


Pueblo  Viejo,  Rio,  Gaatcmala,  189 
Puerto  Berrio  to  Medellin,  railway  from, 

261 
Pnl-i-knia,  Persia,  145 
Pul-i-katdn  to  Ztir-abad,  roads  from,  11 
Pnl-i-khatdn,  Persian  boundary,  H 
Pul-i-murt  or  "Bridge  of  the  Myrtles,** 

161 
to     Tang-i-rudyan,     Captain 

Wells'  Itinerary  of  road  from,  162 
Pul-i-Snfid,  the,  161 
Pul-i-Talkh  or  "  Bitter  Bridge,**  140 
PuI-i-Wargan  to  Chirraini,  Oaptain  Wells* 

Itinerary  of  the  road  from,  144 
Pulley,  Lieutenant,  referred  to,  691 
Pulvar,  the,  Persia,  715 
Punjab,  Handbook  of  the,  by  E.  B.  East- 

wick  (New  Books),  743 
Purao^  volcano  of,  Colombia,  249 

ascent  of,  262 

Purbeck,  Picturesque  Bamblee  in  the  Isle 

of.  by  C.  £.  Bobiuson  (New   Books), 

109 
Putiatine,  Prinoe,  discoveries  of,  392 
Putina-puncu,  Bolivia,  322 
Pyrenees,  Central,  map  of  the,  by  M.  F. 

Schrader  (New  Maps),  683 

Q. 

QAHU-i-nuKH  to  Shelamzar,  Captain  Wdls' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  145 
Qazwin  to  Tabriz,  route  from,  by  General 

A.  Houtum-Sohindler  (New  Maps),  749 
Quagga-tree,  fruit  of  the,  274 
Quango  river,  West  Central  Africa,  578 
Qcnuza  river,  Africa,  705 
Quat  Quatto,  Pariah  of.  New  South  Wales 

Government  Map  (New  Maps),  310 
Quatrefages,  M.  de,  173 
Qnatrelles,  M.,  A  Parisian  in  the  Antilles 

(New  Books),  679 
Queensland,  South-east,  the  Tin-producing 

District  of,  101 
Qnendeque,  or  Tntiquo  river,  Bolivia,  837 
Querimba  Islands,  .S94,  402 
Quesnel,  G..  New  Classical  Atlas  (Now 

Maps),  687 
Quibdd  and  Bolivar,  road  track  from,  252 
ancient  remains  of  Indian  villages 

at,  251 

richness  of  minerals  near,  251 

-  the  country  about,  251 


QuUlimane,  East  Africa,  691 
Quinpampanini  river.  South-west  Africa, 

Quinquandon,  M.,  referred  to,  729 
Qnipongos  tribe,  the.  South-west  Africa,463 
(^uiquibey  river,  Bolivia,  336 
Quirigu^    description    of     ruins     near, 
Guatemala,  185-189 

B. 

Rabai,  town  of,  544 

Babot,  M.  Charles,  430 

Rae,  Edward,  on  Kairwan,  668 


Rafai  Aga,  Mr.  Lupton's  omploye,  35 

Raga,  or  Arga,  meaning  of,  14  note 

Raimondi,  Antonio,  referred  to,  315,  320 

Peru  (New  Books),  306 

Senor,  referred  to,  322 

Rajaurie,  620 

Tawi  river,  623 

Kajmahal,  619 

Raki  Pushi  Peak.  615 

Ram-Hormuz  Plain,  151,  156 

Rambler  Reef,  597 

Ramsay,  Sir  Andrew,  622 

Ram^haw,  Mr..  289 

Ran^  river,  620 

Rankine,  Professor,  265 

Ravensteiu,  E.  G.,  map  of  Eastern  Equa- 
torial Africa,  415 

on  the  Somali  and  Galla 

countries,  675 

Railwav  and  Navigation 

Map  of  Russia  and  Turkey  (New  Maps), 
309 

Ravi,  620 

Rawlinson,  Sir  Henry,  notes  on  M.  Le8sar*s 
Second  Journey  in  the  Turkoman 
country,  12 

remarks  on  Itinerary 

Notes  of  Route  Surveys  in  Northern 
Persia  in  1881  and  1882, 169, 171 

remarks  on  the  Earl 


of  Mayo's  paper  on  A  Journey  from 
Mossamedes  to  the  river  Cunfoe,  472, 
473 

-  remarks  on  telegram 


received  about  Mr.  Thomson's  trouble 
with  Fischer's  party,  410 

-  remarks  on  Visits  to 


the  Eastern  and  North-eastern  Coasts  of 
New  Guinea.  516 

-  remarks  on  the  with- 


drawal of  Lord  Lansdowne  as  President, 

423 
Rebmann,  Mr.,  543 
Red  Deer,  or  La  Bicho  rivers,  635 

River,  China,  452 

Sea.  surveys  of,  595 

Redscar  Bay,  New  (Guinea,  516 

Regel,  Dr.,  explorations  in  Western  Asia, 

392 
Rehno,  village  of,  Persia,  65 
Reichard,  Herr,  and  Dr.  Bobm,  progress  of 

German  East  African  Expedition  under, 

551 
Reikiavik,  364 
Reiss,  Dr.  Wilhelm,  250 
Reliance,  Fort,  North  America,  634 
Reloncavi  Bay,  722 
Renard^  the,  surveying  ship,  593 
Resht  to  Tehran,  railway  line  from,  129 
Resolution,  Fort,  North  America,  634 
(Slave  Lake),  number  of 

inhabitants  of,  652,  653 
Restrepo,  Sefior,  266 
Revello.  Father  Bove  de,  referred  to,  317, 

318 
Revoil,  M.  G.,  journey  in  East  Africa,  429, 

738 


790 


INDEX. 


Bevoil,  M.  G.»  joutney  into  the  South 

Somali  Ck>anfiryt  T^l?..     .    , 

J    pDc^reiasoreKpe^itioa,  558 

— ^ '—  w5*  in  Zanabar,  428 

Reyes,  Bolivia,  824,  327,  338 

Seza  ELuIi  Khan*8  house  at  Ardall.  146 

Khins,  M.  Dutreoil  de.  xeferred  to,  236, 

736 
Bhon^,  M.  A.,  presentation  of  Za  Chtvnique 

des  Arts  to  Paris  G^giaphical  Sooietj, 

560  .    . 

Bich  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
Bichards,  Admiral  Sir  G.,  reforred  to,  223 

Lieutenant,  599       .     , 

Bichardson,  Dr.,  visit  to  Lake  Athabasca, 

648 

'■ Sir  John,  636,  646.     . 

Biohe  Ishind,  New  Guinea,  509 
Biohter,  Otto,  referred  to,  337 .    ,    . 
Biohthofen,  Baron  von,  666 

~-r, referr«4  to,  447 

Bigby,  General,  remarks  on  A  Visit  to  the 

Masai  neople  living  beyond  the  boider9 

of  tiie  Vgum  country,  538,  543 
Bilnra,  L^e,  551 
Bind  tribe,  the,  721 
Bio  Grandte,  843 
Bitter,  Herr,  referred  to,  716 
Joaephj  toap  of  Aastro-Hungarian 

Elngdom  (Nevr  Maps),  501 

Geographical-Btatistioal.  Lexicon 


(New  books),  682 
Bivadeneyra,  M..  referred  to,  712 
Bivoyre,  Denis  de,  558 
— : : Obock,  Masoate,  Bou- 

chire,  Bassorah  (New  Books),  432 
Bobert,  Fritz,  AMka'  als'  Handelsgebiet 

(Now  Books),  432 
Bobert  Hall  Sound,  515 
Bottoaon,  C.  EL,  A  Boyal  Warren,  or  Pic 

turesque  Bambles  in  thd  Lde  of  Purbedk 

(New  Books),  109 
Bobiuson  river.  North-west  Australia,  723 
Bock  river,  North  America,  729 
Bockstroh,    Mr.,    referred  to   by  A.    P. 

Maudslay,  195, 196 
Bocky  Mountains,  source  of  the  Athabasca 

river  at  the,  635 

river,  Athabasca  district,  642 

Sodgers,  the,  379 

Bodriguez,  Simon,  referred  to  in  Mark- 

haiu's  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the  Amam- 

mayu  and  the  Beni,  319 
Boebuck  Bay,  North-west  Australia,  722    " 
Boger,  M.,  484 

Bogoaguado,  Lake  of,  Bolivia,  327 
Bogozinski  Expedition  to  Africa,  173 
Bohde,  Herr  G^org,  referred  to,  722 
Bohlfs,    Gerhard,    Exploration    of    the' 

Libyan  Desert  (New  Books),  678 
— ; My  Mission  in  Abyssinia 

(New  Books),  305 
Bobne,  M.  Arthur,  conununication  from 

Cairo,  428 
Bomanows  tribe,  Borneo,  94 
Bdmsdal  G6vernment,  Norway,   Map   of 

(New  Maps),  184 


Bondo-Makoto,  Mr.,   corzeefeefl    map  ot 

porea  (New  M>p»X  568  .    _ 

Book  Island,  volcano  o^  511 
Bose,    Thomas,    Schools     Prize    Medal ; 

awarded  to,  422 
Boshan-Kuh  Mountains,  Persia,  142      ... 
Boskosohny,  Bertnann,    BosBi^    and  its 

People  (New  Books),  182 
BoemyssIofT,  Lieutenant,  662 
Bosny,   L^n  de,'  Qrographioal    M^p  of 

Boumania,  173 
-: — H-  The  Danubian  Popula- 
tions (New  Books),  182 
Boss,  David,  the  Land  of  Five  Bivers  and 

Sindh(NewBookBX804 
Lieutenant-C!oloni^  B  .  O.,  N<^  on 

the  Biver  Mand,  or  Kara-AgJaatoh»712 

Sir  James  Chirk,  418 

Botang  Paa^  615, 616  ,         x,        - 

Boudiwe,  Commander,  referred  to,  235  -.  ■ 

Bougementi'M.,  knap  by,  4d4 

Bouna  Falls.  New  Guinea,  359,  396, 385 

Bovuma  river,  396,  398 

Boxburgh,  Mr.,  referred  io,  692 

Boy,  M.  Ben^    progress  of.  laeidemiii  . 

Wiasmann,  oommnnioated  by,  174 
Bua  Sura  Islands,  599 
Buaha  river,  Lufigi,  or  Luaha,  106 
Bud-zerd    to  Goorgeer,    Captain    Welht*^ 

Itinerary  of  rood  from,  151 
Budbar  river  to  Deh-i-diz,  Captain  Welb' 

Itinerary  of  road  fhnn,  148 
Budkhana,  or.  Budbar  river,  2 .       . 
Budok  Plain,  614 
Budol&tadt,  West  AfKoa.  711 
Budyan  or  Fahlyun  river,  161 , 
Buge,  Sophus,  Geaefaiphte  des  Zeitalters-^ 

der  Entdeckungen  (New  BooksX  ^ 
Bukshu,  624 

Ridge  explained.  61 

Bumbold,  Sir  Horace,  299 
Ramsey,  Commander,  600 

'   ■- B.  Murray,  Survey 

of  the  Ancobra  river  and  Axim  Gold' 
District.  39 

Burinabaque,  Bolivia,  335,  336 

Rusden,  G.  W..  remarks  oa  Visits  to  the' 

Eastern  and  Northeastern  Coasts  of  New 

Guinea,  516 
Bussia  and  its  People,  by  Hermaim  Boa- 

koschny  (New  Books),  182 
' and  Persia,  new  frontier  between, 

430 
and  Turkey,  Bailway  and  Naviga> 

tion  Map  of,  by  £.  G.  Bavenstein  (Ne!V 

Maps),  309 

Distribution  of  the  Cossack  ia,. 

Map  of,   by  M.  (}hora8Qhchi&  (Peto^- 
mann's  Mittheilungeti)  (New  M14M),  30£F 

West   and    Mid,    Handbook  for 


Travellers,  published  by  Kurt  Baeddnr 
(New  Books),  367 
Russian  Central  Aeia,  A  Journey  in,  in- 
cluding Kalja,  Bokhara,  and  Khiva,  by 
Rev.  Henry  Lansdell,  669 

■    conununioation  'witti   'Pexsaftr 
importance  of,  122 


INDEX. 


m 


Russian      Geograpliioftl     ^ooletf.     East 

Siberian  Section,  405 
Geography,  report  on,  for   the 

year,  by  E.  Delmar  M<«gan,  389 

■  means  of  eommnnication  towards 


Persia  and  Central  Asia,  131 
Military  Topogmpbical  Depart- 
ment, work  of  the,  392 

■  Mission  in  Afghanistan,  Travels 


of  the,  and  the  Khanate  of  ^khara 
(New  Booka),  302 

-  Polar  Meteorological  Expedition^ 

Station  at 


231,  890 


the  month  of  the  Lena,  231 

railways  and  improvements  in 


Persia,  134, 135 

rule,  immense  advantages  of,  in 

coantty  east  of  the  Caspian,  18        .     , 
surveys. in   the    Trans-Caapiao 


region  and  TransrCaiicaaia,  892 
Basso-Persian  boundary,  special  map  of 

the  new,  and  the  Merv  Oasis  (Peter- 

mann's  Mitthcilubgeu)  (Kew  Maps>t  54 
Bustam  Mammassani,  Persia,  714 
Bustamabad  to  camp  near  Jai2nn,  Captain 

Wells'  Itinerary  of  road  from,  158 
Butimeyer,  L.,  Brittany  (New  Books),  48 
Byan,  Mr.  J.  James,  560 


8. 

Saablocis,  map  of  the  Ncighbonrhood  of 

(New  Maps),  627 
Sabah,  Borneo,  90 
Sabi  river,  obstruotloos  of  the,  273 
the  Delta  and  Lower  Conrse  of 

the.  Captain  T.  L.  Phipson-Wybn^nts, 

271 
Sabine,  General  Sir  Edward,  560 
Obituary  of, 

491 
Sachan,  Ed.,  Travels  in  Syria  and  Meso- 
potamia (New  Books),  743 
Sachiu  or  Suitu,  Tibet,  100 
Saclnc,    town    of,    Province    of    Peten, 

Guatemala,  191 
Safldab  or  Diiliclmi.  Persia,  64 

river,  Persia,  64 

Sagula,  lions  at,  540 

nation,  East  Central  AfHca,  69^ 

village,  538 

Sagasa  Hill,  521 

Bftgastyr   Island,    Lena    river,    Russian 

(Eastern)  Meteorological  Station  at,  378 
Sahara,  rain  in  the,  428 
8ahra-i-Karah-Aehaj,  Persia,  712 
Sniad,  native  explorer  of  the  Indian  Survey 

Department,  553 
Saithang,  Tibet,  100 
Saitu  or  Sachiu,  Tibet,  100 
Saja,  son  of  Elanget^i.  chief,  522,  524, 

525 
Sajam  Peak,  615 
Saiama,  cone  of,  314 
Sakalavas,  tribe,  402 


Sakk,  vilbge  of,  Persia,  716 

Sakkan  river,  Persia,  716 

Baldsh  to  Chashmeh,  Lieutenant^DoWel 

Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  69 
Salem-Ben-Amari  referred  to,  717 
Salinas,  Rio,  Guatemala,  196,  202 
Salix  Babylonica^  154 
Salmon,  Alexander,  agent  of  the  **  Malson 

Brander"  of  Tahiti,  40 
Salt  river,  Athabasca  district,  643,  648 
Salta,  map  of  the  Meridional  Division  of 

the  Province  of,  by  L.  Brackebusch  (New 

Maps),  680 
Salvudori,  Count,  516 
Salweny  Upper,  or  tlie  Ln-tze-kfang,  letters 

from  W.  Gill  and  0.   Black   on   the, 

664 
Salyrs,  settlement  of,  at  Zilr-ab^,  11 
Sama  or  Sim^  Tibet,  100 

stream,  Bolivia,  337 

Samayme  to  Mohammerah,  dis^noe  ftom, 

156 
Samory,  86,  44 
San  Buenaventura,'  Bolivia,  385 

—  Fernando  Rapid,  Bolivia,  3^ 

—  Giovanni,  moraine  near,  622 
San-ho  city,  China,  23 

San  Jos^,  Bolivia,  329,  335 

—  Juan,  platinum  from  the  tipper,  257, 
258 

valley  of  the,  255 

—  Pablo,  copper-mines  at,  261- 

Salvador,  West  Africa,  693 

Sandeman,  Sir  R.  G.,  referred  to,  720    ' 
Sandue  (Sanestol),  726 

Sangala  or  Isungila,  699 
Sanio  river,  Bolivia,  336 
Siinkuru,  or  Lubilaah  river,  174 
Sanpo  river,  236,  488 

and  Irawadi  rivers,  169 

Saupu  river,  India,  612 
8anta  Ann,  Bolivia,  829,  331 

Catharina,  Capo  of,  229 

Clara  Bmuk,  Bolivia,  329 

F^  de  Antioquia,  city  of,  255 

Felicitlad  Rapid,  Bolivia,  339 

river,  Peru,  267 

Rosa,  Bolivia,  329 

: —  Manuel,  referred  to,  319 

Bapiii,  Bolivia,  339 

Santarem,  Jofto  de,  referred  to,  229 

Sao  Jofto  do  Sul,  Fazenda,  position  of, 

Soutii-west  Africa,  459 
S&o   Paulo    de    Loanda,   West   Africa. 

692  ' 

Sappho,  H.M.8.,  40 
Sarak   to    Husun    Ikdir,   Lieut-Colonel 

Beresford  Lovett's  Itinerary,  59 

Sarakhs,  Persian  boundary,  3  

and  Herat,  advantages  of  roadi9 

that  follow  Persian  bank  6f  Hari-nid 

between,  7,  15 

and  Merv-^r-nld,  TthiU  between, 


16  ai^  note 

■  Old,  Salyrs  at,  11 


Saramethi  Peak.  617 
Sarg,  Mr.,  referred  to,  191 


702 


INDEX. 


Sarsaparilla  plant  on  the  Athabasca  river, 

630 
SorthoU  615 

Saryks,  on  the  Murgh^b  river,  45 
Saskatchewan,  Upper,  river,  633 
■     ■■■        to  the  Hay  river, 

fertile  plain  from  the,  644 
Bassanian  sepulchres  near  Cliatah,  144 
Bassar  Pass,  India,  614 
Saunders,  Trelawny,  612 
**  Savanois  "  or  •*  Mashkegnus  "  Indians.  649 
Saxony,  School  Map  of  the  Kingdom,  by 

6.  KuUmann  (New  Maps),  440 
Scassv,  M.,  430 
Sohcda,  J.,  Map  of  tho  Austro-Hungarian 

Kingdom  (New  Maps),  627 
Sehenck,    F.    von.  Travels  in  Culombia, 

Map  of  (New  Maps),  438 
Schlemitz,  Admiral  von,  659 
Schleswig-Holstein,    Now    School   Wall- 
map,  by  Dr.  R.  Kiepert  (New  Maps),  312 
Schneider,  Dr.  Paulns,  Die  Siedelungen 

an  Meerbusen    in   ihrer  Abhangigkeit 

von  den  Oeographischen  Bedingungen 

(New  Books),  50 
Scholz,  Prof.,  referred  to,  722 
Schonbrunn,  New  Plan  of  Vienna  (New 

Maps),  501 
School  Atlas,  Stieler's,  by  Dr.  H.  Berghaua 

(New  Maps),  56 
Schouten  Islands,  512 
Schrader,  F^.,  Map  of  the  Central  Pyrenees 

(New  Maps),  683 
Schumacher,  Hermann  A.,  South  American 

Biographies  (New  BouksX  746 
Schumann,    Dr.    Garl,    Verbreitung   der 

Lauraceen  (Petermann's  Mittheiluiigeu) 

(New  Maps),  748 
Sohutze,  Mr.,  referred  to,  232 

and  Harber,  Messrs.,  878 

Bchuver's,  Juan  Maria,  Explorations  on  the 

Blue  Nile,  original  map  of  (New  Maps), 

629 
Schwatka,  Lieut.,  the   *'Boquette'*  Prize 

awarded  to,  by  the  Paris  Grcographical 

Society,  174,  858 
Schweiger-Lerolienfeld,      Amand       von, 

Greece  (New  Books),  48 

" the  Adriatic  (New 

Books),  49 
Schweinfurth,  Dr.,  178,  704 
diagram     of     Lieutenant 

Wissmann's  journey  across  Africn,  163 
Sciences,  Imperial  Academy  of,  at  Vienna, 

bequest  made  by  M.  Bone  to  the,  298 
Scientific    Purposes    ijrant  of  B.  6.  S., 

report  of,  415 
Sclater,  P.  L.,  657 
remarks  on  Visits  to  tho  Eastern  and 

Korth-eatitern  Ck>asts  of  Now  Guinea,  516 
Solaves,  Tho  Ck}untry  of  the,  in  Austro- 

Uungary,  by  Vto.  de  Gaix    de    Saint- 

Aymour  (New  Books),  676 
Scotland,  Beduced  Ordnance  Map  of,  by 

John  Bartholomew  (New  Maps),  501, 627 
Se-chuen,  China,  453 
or  Ssa-ch'uan,  China,  441,  452 


Se-Kololo  dialect  of  the  Zumbesi  tribes,  168 
Se'caiiiiis   or   *'The-kk($    Ottine,"    North 

American  Indians,  651 
Secure  river,  Bolivia,  343 
Seine,  Hydrologieal  Map  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  the,  297 
Selander,  Captain   N.,    map   of  Sweden, 

drawn  by,  48, 178 
Selat-tambraa  Strait,  46 
Selby,  Lieutenant,  expedition  of,  in  Persia, 

referred  to,  125, 127 
Sellar,  A.  Craig,  remarks  on  the  Second 

Voyage  of  the  Eira  to  Franz-Josef  Land. 

223 
Selous,  F.  C,  announcement  of  the  Cuth- 

bert  Peek  Grant  awarded  to,  297,  422 
journey  through  North  Mata- 

belc-knd,  168 

-  Further  Explorations  in  the 


Mashuna  country,  268 

■  travels  in  Africa,  382 


Selwyn,  Professor,  and  Professor  Hayden, 

North  America,  edited  and  enlarged  by. 

Stanford's    Compendium  of  Geographv 

and  Travel  (New  Books),  432 
Sena  Safid  Kotul,  the,  Persia,  153 
Senegal,  Upper,  expeidition  under  Colontl 

Borguis-Desbordes,  for  the,  36 
SengeUen  river,  Patagonia,  86 
Seoul  or  Soul,  598 
Septans,  M.,  173 

Sequcira,  Jofto  de,  referred  to,  229 
Ser-ab-i-siah  stream,  160,  161 
Serena,     Mme.    Garla,    presentation    of 

*  Hommes  et  Choses  en  Perbe,'  to  Paris 

Geographical  Society,  560 
Severn  or  Dumeresq  river,  Queensland,  101 
Severtaof,  M.,  note  from,  361 
Seyuba  river,  Bolivia,  328 
Seyyid  Hassan,  Haji  Miiza,  map  of,  712 
Sha-Chu  river,  665 
Sha'fari,  village  of,  Persia,  716 
Shah  Abbds  the  Great's  Kurdish  colony,  20 
Shah-kuh-i-Bala,  village  of,  Persia,  82 
Shah  Kuh  Mountains,  Persia,  77 
Pdin  (Lower),  village  of,  Persia, 

74 

range,  Persia,  73,  74 

Shah-ruh  Hill,  160 

Shahdulu,  India,  614 

Sliahpur  Valley,  the,  Persia,  153 

Shahrud,  town  of,  Persia,  80 

Shahwar  Mountain,  Persia,  78,  79.  81 

Shakhe  Marsh,  the,  156 

to  camp  of  Sheikh  Jabereh 

Khan,  Captain  Wells'  Itinerary  of  ruad 

from  the,  157 
Shnlawe,  Mr.  O'Neill  at,  551 
Shams-ul-flrab  stream,  160 
Shamsttbud,  145 
Shan  Country,  China,  457 
Shan-si,  China,  455 
Shat-el-Arab  river,  Persia,  125 
Shaw,  Bussell,  remarks    on   the   various 

means     of     communication     between 

Central  Persia  and  the  sea,  136 
Shawer  or  Shour  river,  Persia,  154 


INDEX. 


793 


Shayok-Kailas,  the,  explniticd,  C»15 
Shavok  river,  India,  614 
Shehr-i-Sebz,  b'(>9 
Shelamzar    to    Ardall,    Captain    Wells' 

Itinemrv  of  road  from,  145,  146 
Shentu  Hill,  Persia,  78 
Slierbett,  or  Shuhr-i-Biit,  clearing,  Persia, 

82 
Sheridan,  General,  referred  to,  237 
Shigar,  615 
Bhikarab    to    Shuster,    Captain    Well»* 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  151 
Shinto  shrine  of  the  Corean  village,  276 
Shiinni  tribe,  720 
Shiraz,  Perbia,  712, 716 
badness  of  the  rood  from,  to  the 

sea,  123 

lieight  of,  Persia,  128 

to  Baden,  distance  from,  138 

Budhire,  distance  and  the  road 

from,  152 
Shiristanak,  Persia,  59 
Shirwa,  Lake,  progress  of  Mr.  O'Neill's 

expadition  from   Huzambique  to,   482, 

551 
Shour  or  Shawer  river,  Persia,  154 
Shoura  stream,  158 
Shahr-i-Biit,  or  Shorbett,  clearing,  Persia, 

82 
Shun-ohih,  first  Chinese  Empoior.  27 
Shur  (salt),  or  Fahlyun  river,  162 
Shnr-au  (salt-water)  stream,  8 
Shuruifurur  Peak,  617 
Shush  or  Susa,  monnd  of,  154 
Shuster  and  Ispahan,  the  couiitry  between, 

133 

naphtha  well  on  the  road  to,  157 

to     Ab-bid,      Captain      Well*' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  153 
to    Band-i-kir,    Captain    WeUs' 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  155 
to  Ispahan,  advisability  of  a  rail- 
way from,  134 
to  Shush  and  bock,  and  thence  to 

Aliwaz,  (}aptain    Wells'  journey  from, 

153  et  seq. 

town  of,  Persia,  125 

Si  Amor  Djedidi,  Tunis,  298 

Siah,  district  of  Persia,  716 

Siberia  and  Mongolia,  Russian  expedition 

under  Ck>lon«l  Prejevaldcy  to  the  frontier 

between,  175 

East,  geography  in,  405 

map  of  the  Southern  part  of  the 

Littoral   Province  of,  by  M.  Venukoff 

(New  Maps),  686 

trade  with,  viA  the  North  Cape, 


trade 


406,  555 
Sibi,  720 

Sibiriakoff,  Mr.,  661 
attempt  to  establish   a 

with  Siberia,  406 
Sicily,  Cities  of  Southern   Italr  and,  by 

Augustus  J.  C.  Hare  (New  BM>ks),  867 
Sidgreaves,  Bev.  W.,  674 
Siemens,    Bros.,    Charts    of    the    North 

Atlantic  Ocean  (New  Maps),  55 


Sierra  Leone  and  Liberia  (New  Maps), 

750 
and  Timmc'ne   Land   (New 

MapsX  750 
Sigirari,  Dr.  Fischer's  caravan  at,  058 
Siguani,  Bolivia,  340 
Sihuapio  river,  Bolivia,  337 
Sikkim,  624 

Silivdu,  village  of,  Persia,  67 
Silvia,  village  of,  264 
Simeor  Sama,  Tibet,  100 
Simla,  615 
Simonin,  M.  Louis,  on  the  ports  of  Great 

Britain,  299 
Simooku,  403 
Simplon,  the,  624 

Simpson,  Mount,  New  Guinea,  507 
Sinclair,  Henry,  referred  to,  727 
Bind  Valley,  616 
Sindh,  The  Land  of  Five  Rivers  and,  by 

David  Boss  (New  BooksX  304 
Singapore,  longitude  of,  taken  by  C.  K 

Peek,  488 
Singchula.  the,  617 
Sinosino,  Bolivia,  329 
Sinugul,  Siugiulu,  8iu-chou-fu,  or  Sui-fn. 

China,  447 
Sipita  btream,  Bolivia,  837 
Sir  Derwarzeh  HilU  Persia,  76 
Sir-i-Tang  Valley,  Persia,  72 
Sissio  country,  Borneo,  351 
Situkoa,  or  Sitakan,  river  Mand  or  Kara- 

Aghatoh,  Souihem  Persia,  712,  716 
Sitakus  or  Sitioganus,  714, 715 
Siu-chou-fu,   Sui-fu,  Sinugul,  or  Siugiulu, 

China,  447 
Siugiulu,  Siu-chou-fu,  Sui-fu,  or  Siuugul, 

China,  447 
Sivalik  axis,  618 
Skage  Fjord,  Greenland,  295 
SkAne,  Dr.   Montelius'   arohseological  re- 
searches in,  178 
Skardo,  615,  620,  623,  625 
Sladen,  Col.,  referred  to,  452 
Slave  Lake,  Lesser,  dUtrict,  633 
river,  the,  Athabasca  district,  646, 

647,  648 
Tinney  Indians,  or  •*  Katch6-Ottin6," 

649,  650 
Smirnow,  M.,  isodynamic  map  of  European 

Russia  of,  174 
Smith,  (3ol.  R.  M.,  124 
extracts  of  a  letter  from, 

on  Mr.  Mnckenrie'sjouraey  from  Moham- 

mera  to  Ispahan  viA  Shuster,  132 

George,  The  Student's  Geography 


of  India  (New  Books),  111 

Leigh,  206,  209,  221,  235 

Arctic  expedition  of,  377 

expedition  of,  176 

extracts  from  Diary  of,  214 

grant  of  1000/.  to  the  Society's 

Expedition  Fund,  98,  169 
Snow,  Mr.  Parker,  referred  to,  741 
Sogere,  district  of.  New  Guinea,  356,  357 
Sokolo  or  Kala,  739 
Sola,  Colonel,  360 


IKDEX. 


SoldUet,  M.  Paul,  lOH,  558,  561 
— '    letter    from,    to 


Geo- 


•prftpliiortl  Society  uf  Paris,  405 
Solomon  Itilitniia   to    Mulny  Archipelago, 

clmin  of  to  I  canoes  firora  the,  512 
Somftli  Country,  South,  M.  Bevoil'd  Jour- 
ney into  t lie,  717 
ftnd  Gftlltt  CJountriea,  on  thct  by  E. 

G.  Ravenstcin,  675 

P«»>ple,  tLc,  718 

Soaak,  Persia.  58 

Sotij;  Kai   Delta,  Tong-King,  niap  of  the 

(New  Miipe).  G86 
Song  we  river,  East  Ceulrul  Africa,  059 
Sonora  line  of  ruilwny,  tli«,  Mtjxioo,  668 
Sonyo,  country  of.  West  Africa,  C93 
Siirenaen,  Cap'tuin  G-  A.,  96 
Sorin,  Captain  Punl,  ^'d 
Sotani,  volcano  of,  Cnlfiinbiu,  249 
Soutlnu,  ruilway«  of  the,  liUD 
Bdul,  Chiiieao  landing-place  at,  278 

Japanesie  Legation  at,  283 

or  Han- Yang,  city  of  Corea,  274,  279, 

281,  283 

or  SeouU  598 

S]Niin,  Topogmphical  Mttp  of  (Now  Maps), 

375 
Spanowh'iwkt  the,  surveying  fthip.  593 
Spitsbergen  and  Burentli  St-aa,  ioo  in  the, 

iu  1882,  m 

expeditions  to,  563 

SpottiawcK)de,  Williiwn,  Obilmiry  of.  489 
— • remarks    un    re- 

spoTidiUK  to  tliv  tojiat  of  other  8ci«?ntiflo 

BoeiotioB,  425 
Brinugar,  tilO 

Ssfl-ch'unn  or  8e-chuen,  China,  441,  452 
8t.  John,  Major,  M&p  of  Rivet  Mand^  by, 

712 

Mr,  Conaul-Genenil,  referred  to, 


721 


Sir  Oliver,  128,  143,553 


SLin  ford's  Compendium  of  Gengrnpliy  Biht 

Travel,  North  Amerien,  tsjit^l  and  rri- 

hirgod  by  Professor  F.  V.  Huydrn  tnd 

Profeasor  A.  K.  C.  Sel wyn  (No  «r  BoA^X 

432 
Siecker,  Dr.,  Progreas  of  Explorftttona  in 

Abygsinia,  551 
8teen;)trop,  Jupetus,  Voyages  of  the  Zeni 

iu  the  North  (New  Books),  681 

Profeiwor,  referred  l/»,  725 

Steinhaaaen,  Dr.,  referred  to,  722 
Stephens,  Mr.,  referred  to  in   Maailfltay'» 

KxploiatioDS  in  GuBtemnlu,  189 
Stevetiiiony  James,  communication  on  Jaiae* 

8t«wurt'A  (li«covciies    in  Kast  Central 

Africa,  658 
— - — '- '  — —    letter     from    Janie» 

Stewart  to,  689 
— The  Water  Highwoyi  of 

tlie  Intcri^>r  of  Africa  (New  BooksX  ^^ 
Sti^svart,  Colonel,  English  Agent  at  Kltit8 
referred  to  in  connection  witb  the 

word  '•  Kihseb,"  16 

remarks  on   Itinerary    Notes  of 


^= or  D'Kplnette  and   Sluve  Lake 

FortB,  number  of  iuhubitants  of,  652, 

653 
Si  Louis  to  Dakar  Hailway,    i)rogre8»   of 

tbe,  175 
St.  Paul  de  Loanda,  South-west  Africa, 

469 
St.  Petersburg   Geographical  Society  of, 

Proceeding!!  of,  Octi>ber  18th,  1882,  45 
— —  October  20 tb,  1881,  46 
St.  Pol  Lias,  BL  Brau  de,  104,  737 

■  communication  on  journey  of, 


496 


Perok  (New  Books),  305 


8t«»nley,  H.  M.,  481,  695,  704 

• —  A  Visit  to,  StatioiiB  on  the  River 

Congo,  by  H.  U.  Johnston,  569  et  aeq^ 

667 

• progress  of,  605 

~- —  l>;/ii  Medal  uwurdefl   to,  by  the 

Geogruphieal  Society  of  Stockholuj,  362 
work  on  tbe  Congo,  4 S3 


Btniiley  Pool,  West  Africa,  574,  693,  702, 

703 
—  King  Makoko  of»  288 


Route  Surveys  in  Northern  Persiti,  170 
—  remurkB  on  the  various  means  of 


commuuieution  between  Centnl  Fteria 
and  the>  sea,  135 

—  .Jame:*,  O.E.,  diocoverica  between 


Lake3  Nyossa  and  Tanganyika,  659 

— = on    tlie    Survey    of   the 

Eogtern  Coast  of  Lake  Nyaasa.  and  latest 
news  of  the  "  Lnke-J unction  Road,"  689 

ObittiarT  of,  724 

■  work  on  the  Lake-Junc- 


tion Road  between  Nyasaa  and  Taogaa- 
yika.  290 

Stockholm,  Geographical  Society  of,  eleo- 

tioii  of  the  Council  for  1883  of  the,  177 

. Pro- 

ctedings  of,  October  20th,  1882,  47 
— —  November  iTtb,  1882,  107 
■ ~  December  IGtIi,  1882,  176 

—  January  12tb,  1883,  178 

February  16tb,  1883.  362 

March  IGth,  1SK3,  362 

A|)ril  2lth,  1883,  362 

May  18th,  1S83,  496 

Stok,  the,  explanution  of,  616 
Stolpe,  Dr.  H.,  496 

—  Notes  on  Easter  Lihind,  362 

S1olnbiuelll^  622 

Stone,  General,  178 

Stony  Rapid,  Athabua^'u  nver.  (i..* 

Stoqueler,  Mr.,  159 

Stor  Fi^rd,  96 

Storms,  M.,  referred  to,  105 

and  Becker,  Messrs..  381 

Stower.  L>r.,  referred  to.  722 
Straohey,  tJeneral,  620 

Sir  Henry,  612 

Streme  (StrGuioe),  726 
Strepsicet-js  huH^  koodoo,  481 
Htubel,  Dr.  Alfons,  250 
Stung-Treng,  town  of,  420 
8u'Wdti*piu,  Corea,  279 
ronds  about,  280 


l^DEX. 


795 


Sudero  Golfb  (SaderoQordX  726  ' 
Sufedkoh  nnge,  616 

Sugb.  Idand  oC^lalaj  Atohfpelagis^l  • '. 
Sui-fu,  Sini^iU,  Siugiala,  or  Siu-Kshov-ft, 

Ghinm447 
Sal  stream,  the,  161, 162 
SultanabMl  village,  158 
Sultanpur,  617 
Sulu   Islands,   Notes   on  ,  Nortii  -  eastern 

Borneo  and  the,  by  W.  B.  Pryer,   90 

et  seq. 
Sulos,  the,  or  Malaya,  91 
Sumatra     (Petermann'd     Mittheilongen) 

(New  MapeX  248 
Somilicha  river,  663   . 
8ung-i-sin  tribe,  Persia,  69 
Surama  river,  Golomlua,  257 
Surt.  mineral  springs  at,  Persia,  72 
Sum,  616 

Susa,  VaUey  of,  622 
Sutlej  river,  615,  618,  620  , 

Suto  of  th&  Chutoa    branch  of  Bantu 

languages,  285 
Swat,  615 
Akhcpnd  qf,  Mian  Qnl,  son  of  the, 

552 
Sijredeo,  Geological  Mup  of  (New  HapsX 

309 

King  Oscar  of,  563 

Swedish    North    Polar   Expedition^    by 

Professor  Ed.  Erslev,  562,  563 
Swiro,  Lient^  refemsd  to,  222 
S\Titzerland,  New  Map  of,  by  R.  Leuzinger 

(New  Maps),  435. 
Small  Official  Bailway  Map  of 

(New  Maps)  375 

—  Tbfographical  Atlas  of  (Nov 


Maps),  504 


M^  of,  Swiss 
Federal  (Government  (New  Maps),  312 
Wall-map  of;  by  J.  M.  H. 


Ziegler  (New  MapsX  627 
Sylhet,  619 

bhils,  617  and  note,  620 

Plains  of,  620 

Syria  and  Mesopotamia, Travels  in,  by  Ed: 

Sachaa  (New  Books),  748 
Sjlvia,  the,  surveying  6h)p,  598 

.   T. 

Ta-lt-fc,  China,  451, 452 ' 

Tabris  to  Tehran,  the  road  (jrom»  183 . 

Tabriz  to  S&hdjbul&gh,.  Route  ficom;  by 
General:  A,  Uofitum  -  Sohlndler  (New 
Maps)  749 

Tabure,  New  Guinea,  357 

Tado  Mqrros,  the,  250 

Taduan,  Persia,'  7)2 

Tafiropoulo,  M,  736 

Taibad-suiiver,  PiBTsia,  10 

Takht-i-SulimanPeok,  proposed  expedition 
to.  720 

Tokhta-Kandia  Pass,  669 

Talboi,  Lieutenant,  the  Hon.  M.  G.,  re- 
ferred to,  720     . 

T'altsan  Desse,  728 


7a/>'«>nan,  the,  561,  740 

Tamani  river,  Colombia,  257 

Tambopata  and  Pablo-bamba  river,  junc- 
tion of  the,  Bolivia,  822 

Tambuyukan  Ranges,  Borneo,  851 

Tambuzi  Pass,  394 

Tamsni,  Formosa,  674 

Tang-i-khast  river.  161 

Tang-i-narik  kotul,  160 

Tang-i-mdyan  Plateau,  162 

to  Goyum,  Captain  Wells'' 

.  ItiAeratT  of  road  from,  162 

.  Taug-i-rukh  kotul,  the,  145 

Tang-i-aiah  river,  Persia,  146, 147 

Tanganyika,  Lake,  695 

■    ■     steamer  sent  by  London 

Missionary  Society  to,  290 

-  the  steamer  on,  382 


Tan^i,  34 

Tunjong  Unsang'  promontory,  Borneo,  00 

Tunksd;  615 

Too-kuftng,  Emperor,  Mausoleum  of  -the,' 

80 
Tapal  Range,  Persia,  79 
Tardy,  M.  Aug.,  Mission  to  the  Province 

of  Miohoacao,  Mexico,  559 
Tarene  river,  Bolivia,  328 
Turija,  739 

Tarquah,  town,  West  Africa,  40 
Tasb,  coal-mines  at,  Persia,  81 
Tasht  Bay  of,  Persia,  142 
Lake,  junction  of,  with  Lake  Nerfis, 

143 
Taveta.  Africa,  285, 545 
Taxodium  dtstichum,  BGi 
Taylor,  Rev.  W.  K,  544 
Tcliemaiefl^  General,  559 
Tchipili  village,  Africa,  897 
Te  Rama  Kao,  extinct  volcano  on  Easter 
'     Ishtnd,  41 

Teesta,  the,  618  • 

Ttyetthof,  the,  209,  225 
Tehran  and  Shah  Abdul  Asm,  road  be* 

tween,  128 

height  of,  Persia,  128 

to  Astrabad,  Lieut-Ool.  Bereeford 

Lovett's  Itineraiy,  58 
Teheran  to  Enzeli,  Rusfoan  railway  ^rOm, 

134 
Teiss^  Julian,  referred  to,  718 
Tejend  river,  4 

■ the  lower  dburse  of  the^  14    •  " 

Tekkesb  setaelnents  of  the,  4     * 

Tel-espid  Plain,  161  ' 

to  Kazerun,  road  fix>m,  161 

to  Nuradabad,   distance  from, 

161 
to  Pul-i-murt,  CH»tain   W^la'- 

Itinerary  of  road  from,  161 
•*  Tfle'-nui^'' or  crane-bread,  689 
Tek>k-betong,  Sunda  Strait,  657 
Tembi,  village  of,  Persia,  151 
Temple,  Sir  Richard,  remarks  on  M.  P.  M.  - 

Lessar's  Second  Journey  in  the  Toiko* 

man  Countrv,  21 
Tenosique,  village  of^  Chutt^nala,  196 
Tequ^  river,  Bdivia,  828 


796. 


INDEX. 


"Tetemeko,"  East  Central  Africa,  590 

Teuchd  river,  Boliyia,  335 

Tezpur,  619 

Tha-narelther  (Falliag  Sable),  Ghipewyan 

woman,  650 
Thal-Chotiali  and  Hamai,  An  Historical 

and  Descriptive  Report  on  the  Districts 

of,  by  Surgeon-Major  O.  T.  Duke  (New 

Books),  677 
*♦  Tli^ye  Ottine',"  North  American  Indians, 

651 
"Thi-lan  Ottind,"  North  American  Indians, 

651 
Thingali.  Tibet,  100 
Thomas,  Mr.,  referred  to  in  connection  with 

Mr.  Durnford's  explorations  in  Central 

Patagonia,  86 
Thompson,  Chas.,  journey  from  Accra  to 

Prahsue,  37 

Major  B.  8.,  138 

Mount,  New  Guinea,  507 

Thomson,  Joseph,  departure  of,  for  Zanzi- 
bar, 32 

encounter  with  the  Masai 


tribe,  548,  549 


379,  380 
of,  415 


415 


476 


■  expedition  of,  to  Afrion, 
•  expenditure  of  expedition 

-  grants  of  instruments  to, 

-  letter  from,  to  Col.  Miles, 


■  progress  of  expedition  of, 
in  East  Central  Africa,  284, 405, 475, 550, 
605,  719,  7.S0 

referred  to,  238,  428 

-  referred  to,  on  the  Mavia 

■  report  on  the  progress  of 


tribe,  393 


the    Society's    Expedition    to   Victoria 
Nyanza,  544  ct  aeq, 

telegram     relating     to 


troubles  with  Fischer's  party,  410 

visit  of,  to  Lieut.  Wiss- 


mann,  at  Cairo,  99 

Bonald    F.,    ascent    of   Mount 


Demavend,  169 

Sir  William  T.iylour,  125 

ascent 


of 


Mount  Dcmavend,  1(39 
Thorshavn,  town  of,  726 
Thouar,  M.,  expedition    for    discovering 

the  remains  of  the  Crevaux  Miesion,  560, 

561,738,739 
news  of  the  members  of  the 

Crevaux  Expedition,  486 

progress    of  journey    of,    in 


South  America,  174,  496 
Thu-han  Desse,  728 
Thuillier,  L.,  Map  of  French  Railroads 

(New  Maps),  627 
Map  of  Palestine  and  Lebanon 

(New  Maps),  686 
Thursday  bland.  New  Guinea,  517 

port  of,  506 

Torres  Straits,  505,  506 


"Ti-d^pay,"  Mount,  Athabasca  district,  646 
Tibet  and   the    Koko-Nor,    Frejevnlsky  a 

Journey  to  (Petermann's  Geographische 

Mittheilungen)  (New  Mape),  568 
journey  of  a  Native  Indian  explorer 

through,  99 
Tibetan  Border,  Curiosities  of  Travel  on 

the,  by  E.  Oolbome  Baber,  673 

Plateau,  the,  552 

Tierradel  Fuego,  lecture  on,  by  M.Lovisatu, 

298 
Tiflis  and  Bostoff  on  the  Don,  longitude  of, 

392 

railway  to,  170 

to  Batoum,  railway  in  course  of  pro- 
gress from,  135 
to  Teheran,  proposed  railway  ftom, 

134 
Tinis,  the  river  service  on  the,  between 

Bussorah  and  Baghdad,  134, 135 
Tlh  PUteau,  the.  675 
Tikal,   difficulty   of  obtaining  water  at, 

Guatemala,  195 

ruins  of,  described,  Guatemala,  192 

Tillo,  Colonel  de.  Catalogue  of  altitudes  of 

Russian  stations,  174 

measurement  of   rivers  of   Buasia, 

559 

Timbuctu,  739 

Timor-laut  Island,  Mr.   Forbes*  work  in, 

657 
Ting  Ling,  mausoleum  of  Emperor  Hsien- 

ftng,  30 
Tingaluns  tribe,  Borneo,  94 
Tingaras  tribe,  Borneo,  94 
Tinney  tribe  of  Indians,  the,  649, 728 
Tipuani,  ravine  of,  Bolivia,  314,  323 
Tipuhuani  river,  Bolivia,  337 
Tirioh  Mir,  615 
Tissot,  Victor,  Hungary  from  the  Adriatic 

to  the  Danube  (New  Books),  49 
Tizard,  Staff-Commander,  593 
Tobas  tribe,  the,  487, 739 
Toce  river,  621 

Valley,  624 

Todd,  Major  E.  D'Arcy,  57 

Tokio,  Geographical  Society  of,  429 

Society  of  Political  Economy  and 

Statistics  at,  559 
Tolok-Betoung,  737 
Toltec  tribe,  in  Central  America,  44 
Tong-king,  from  the  Me-kong,  tribes  which 

inhabit  the  mountains  separating ;  by 

Abb^  Lesserteur,  43 
map  of  (New  Maps),  629 

map  of  the  Song   Kai   Delta 

(New  Maps),  686 

Topographical  map  of,  trans- 


mitted by  M.  Caspari,  to  Paris  Geo- 
graphical Society,  560 

Tonga,  Ba-Tonga,  Ama-Tonga,  the  words, 
285 

Tongariro,  Mount,  New  Zealand,  667 

Tonkin,  map  of,  by  M.  A.  Gonin  (New 
Maps),  629 

by  M.  Mallart-Creaaiu 

(New  Maps),  750 


I^'DEX. 


707 


Tono  and  Pilii«pilii  river,  junction  of  the, 

Bolivia,  818 
Tor-koor  village,  Persia,  145 
Torbela.  623 
Torell,  Otto,  563 

Torra  Mountain,  Mr.  Biuke  White's  Ex- 
pedition to  the,  256,  257 

temperature  near  tli**,  264 

Torres  Straits,  pearl-^hell  trade  in,  506 
Touarega  Azdjers,  the,  428  , 

Toulouse,  Geographical  Society  of,  175 
Tuumat,  Yaboud,  and  Yal,  Sources  of  the 

(NtiW  Maps).  184 
Touiuby,  village  of.  West  Africa,  175 
Towar,* village  of  Persia,  61 
Town  Plans,  Ordnance  Survey  Maps  (New 

Maps),  54, 116,  246,  375,  436,  628 
"  Tpa-tcb^g^tchop  "  river,  North  America, 

634 
Ti-agbul,  616 

Tragelaphus  acriptus.  West  Africa,  705 
Trans-Oaspian  Begion,  Bussiun  surveys  in 

the,  392 
Transcontinental  Survejr,Northem(UAA.) 
Map  of  Yakima  Region 

Colville  Begion 

Crazy  Mountains 

Judith  Basin  (New  Maps),  630 

Travaux  Publics  an  XIX"  Si^le,  Les,  by 

Maximo  Hdlfene  (New  BooksX  5U 
Ties  Gruces,  the  Pass  of.  View  from,  320 

Bancos  Bapid,  Bolivia,  329 

Treub,  Dr.  M.,  658 
Triuna,  SeDor,  266 
TrigoBo,  Estevan,  referred  to,  319 
Trinidad  Island,   Chart   showing  set  of 
currents  near,  by  G.  A,  Harragin  (New  ■ 
Mups).  440 
Tristram,  Bev.  Canon,  675 
Triton,  the.  surveying  ship.  593 
Trobriand  Island,  509 
Trocadero,  Museum  of  the,  exhibition  at 

the.  by  M.  Charnay,  174,  175 
TroUope,  Anthony,  Obituary  of,  389 
Trondhjem,  554.  555 
Trotter,  Coutts,  665 

On  New  Guinea,  670 

remarks  on  VLjits  to  the  Eastern 

and  North-eastern  coasts  of  New  Guinea, 
516 
Trouillet,  M.  Claude,  communicati<ni  upon 
the  Island  of  Boulam,  558 

death  of,  referred  to, 


736 


-  referred  to,  738 


Tscherikina,  6U2 

Tschiyombe  forest,  Congo,  287 

Tsetse  fly   in  great  numbers  below  the 

Uravukwe  Mountaius,  270 
Tsiamdo    town,     Tibet,    666.     See    also 

Chiamdo 
Tsomuri-rhi  Lake,  615 
Tuan,  Borneo,  351 

Tuckey,  Captain,  referred  to,  699,  711 
Tudor,  J.  B.,  The  Orkneys  and  Shetland ; 

their    past    and   present   state   (New 

Books),  431 


Tuichi  river,  Bolivia,  330 

Tuket,  617 

Tumat,    Jabus  u.  Jal,    Origiualkarte  der 

Quellgebieto  der   FUisse  (Petermanu's 

Mittheilungen)  (New  Maps),  248 
Tumupasa,  town  of,  Bolivia,  328,  335,  336 
Tunbunwhas  tribe,  Borneo,  94 
Tung  Rosi&  gorge,  Persia,  69 
Tuughi  Bay,  393,  394 
Tunis  and  Carthage,  Environs  of,  made 

under  direction  of  Commandant  Perrier 

(New  Maps).  438 
map  of  (Depot  de  la  Guerre,  Paris) 

(New  Maps),  55 
map  of  Neighbourhood  of  (Peter- 
manu's  Mittheilungen)    (Now   Maps), 

438 
map   of  a    reoonnaissanoe   in  the 

central  region  of,  by  M.  Julien  Poinaot 

(New  Maps),  686 
maps  of  Beja,  Kaironan.  &o.  (Depot 

de  la  Guerre)  (New  Maps),  55 
Souvenirs  of  au  Expedition  to,  by 

B.  Girard  (New  Books),  678 
Tupinier  IsLtnd,  volcano  of,  511  ' 

Turbat-i-Haidari  and  Mash-had,  difficult 

route  between,  9 

town  of,  9 

Turbat-i-Sheikh-Jam  and  Mash-had,  roads 

between,  9 
Turin,  621,  623,  625 
Turkoman  Country,  Askabad  to  Ghurian 

near  Herat,  M.  Lessar's  Second  Journey 

in  the,  1  et  seq. 
■     -  ■  Notes  on  M.  Lessar's 

Second  Journey  in  the,  by  Major-Geueral 

Sir  Henry  Bawlinson,  12 
Turukh  and  Kafir-kala,  steep  slopes  bo- 

tween,  9 
TushiLsnge  tribe,  164 
Tntiquo  river,  see  Quendoqae  river 
TutuUa  Ldand  (the  Maouna  of  La  Pe- 

rouse),  426 

U. 

UoHAK,  Persia,  58 

CIdongoj  ridges  of  red  clay,  518 

Ugalde,  Manuel,  referred  to,  318 

Uganda,  population  of.  South-east  Africa, 

481 
rumour  of  the  death  of  King 

Mtesa  of,  479 
Uhha,  people  of,  165 
Ujiji,  East  Africa,  691 
Ullrich,  Valentin,  The  Horizontal  Conflgu- 

ration  and  Composition  of  Europe  and 

North  America  (Xe*  Books),  373 
Umpinge  river,  Africa,  268 
Umquasi  river,  Africa,  268 
Umseugaisi  river,  Africa,  268 
Umtonto  Quenga,  ant  plague  at,  274 
Umvukwe  Mountains,  Africa,  268 
tsetse  fly  near,  268, 

270 
Umzeila's  country,  Portuguese  Expedition 

to,  33,  405 


798 


IND£X. 


Un-hyon-ktiiig,  or  "  Clood-monnd  '  Palace 

of  Soul,  283 
Underbill,  West  Africa,  569 
Uodomo  river*  Bolivia,  328 
Ungo^  fan  Used  in  iron  \rorking,  East  Cen- 
tral Aftka,  587, 752 
United  Kingdom,  Sonreys  of  the  ooaets  of 

the,  593 
United  States  Hydrographic  Charts  (New 

Maps),  65, 119, 184,  312,  440,  687,  752 
Unknown  river,  Athabasca  district,  645, 

648 
Upemivik,  363 
Urd,  the,  486 

Urs^sl,  village  of,  Persia,  62 
Uruguay,  map  of  the  Oriental  Republic  of, 

by  J.  A.  Berra  (New  Maps),  688 
Usbome  Port,  North-western  Australia^ 

723 
Ranges,  North-western  Australia, 

723 
UitwMMendy   ancienjt    name   far  city  of 

Firuzkuh.  172 
Usumacinta  river,  Guatemala,  197 
— 1^ andsnt  Indian  buildings 

in  Ibrest  on,  885 

-  ruins  of,  described,  Guatemala, 


197,  198,  200-202 


Yaoa,  Dr;,  referred  to,  325,  331 

Vaoas  river,  BoHvia,  341 

Yallte,  Ldon,  List  of  Books,  &o.,  bearing 

on  New  Caledonia  (New  BooksX  746 
Yallentin,  Florian,  The  Cottian  and  Graiun 

Alps  (New  Books).  182 
Vanilla  orchid,  growth  of,  in  Colomlna,  260 
Varna,  the,  166,  176,  177,  848,  878,  379, 

603,  733 

— probabilities  of  ihte  of  the,  5^6 

Vasquez,  Scfior,  referred  to,  380,  381 
Yaniany,  H.,  map  of  the  Environs  of  Cairo 

(New  Maps),  117 
Yaux,  Ludovic  de,  Palestine  (New  Books), 

567 
V«ga,  the,  363 
Yega  Expeditions,  by  A.  E.  Nordenskiold 

(New  Books),  625 
Yelde,   M.  Yan  de,  remarks  on    H.   H. 

Johnston's  paper,  710 
Yelho,   Major   B.    Palma,    Governor    of 

Querimba  Islands,  403 
Yenukoff,  General,  174,  361,  430,  559,  561, 

737 
communication  of  Ck>lonel  Prejd- 

valsky's  doings,  43 
communication     relative     to 

Bussian  Expeditions,  175 

letter   from,    on    M.    Lessor's 


Second  Journey  in  the  Turkoman  Couutry, 
19 

■  map  of  the  Southern  part  of  the 


Littoral  Province  of  Siberia  (New  Maps), 
086 
Yeriata  Mountain,  New  Guinea,  355 


Yermilion,  Fort  (Peace  river),  number  of 

inhabitants  of,  652,  653 
Yemey,  Sir  Hany,   remarks   on    C.  B. 

Marlcham  s  paper  on  the  Basins  of  the 

Amaru-mayu  and  Uie  Bmi,  346 
Vibumvm  eduU,  635 
Yictoria  Nyanza,  Late,  695 
'■ and  Mount  Eenia  Expe- 

ditioD,  284.  405 


-  Mr.  Thomson's  B^)ort  on 

the  Progress  of  the  Society's  Expedition 

to,  &i^a$cq. 
Victoria  Segia,  discoverer  of  the,  343 
Yienna,  Imperiitl  Academy  of  Sciences  at, 

bequest  made  by  M.  Bone  to  the,  298 
New  Blaa  o^  by  Schoo1mmn(Nev 

Maps),  501 
Yillamif,  General,  854 
Yillaret,  Cape,  Australia,  724 
Yista,  West  Africa,  695 
Yivi,  West  Africa,  569, 697,  698 
Yo-ang-wa,  Sand  river,  Africa,  269 
Yolga,  Bussian  trade   between  ihe,  and 

Persia,  122 
Yolta  river.  West  Africa,  39,  600 
Yoos,  Leopold,  Plan  of  !]&unburg  Altona 

(New  Maps),  435 
YoroUovi,  stone  edifices  near,  S&l 
Yuillemin,  A.,  Physical  Atlaa  of  Europe 

(New  Atlases),  120 
Ymiia  to  Ahir,  Lieui^Cdooel  Beresfonl 

Lovett's  Itinerary,  58 
Yutcan  Island,  vokano  of,  511 


W. 

Wa-a8i  tribk,  528 

Wa-bumba  tribe.  East  Central  Afriofe,  518, 

520,  539,  585 
Wa-itumba  Iron-workers  and  the  Manga- 

heri,  A  Visit  to,  by  J.  T.  lAst,  581  tt  aeq. 
Wa-kosobo  tribe,  541 
Wa-kwavi  people,  541 
Wa-lori  tribe,  the,  Esst  Central  AfHra, 

585 
Wa-megi  tribe,  518 
Wa-nguru,  the,  517, 522 
Wa-rima  tribe,  the.  East  Central  Africa, 

522, 585 
Wa-teita  tribe,  545 
Wabasoa,  Lake,  North  America,  635 
Wabama  river.  West  Central  Africa^  578 
tribe,  the.  West  Central  Africa. 

580,  706 
Wabuma-Qnango   liver,    or   Ibari-Nkutu 

river.  West  Africa,  577,  578,  702 
Wa-buno  tribe.  West  Afnca,  706 
Wadans  tribe,  Africa,  717 
Wade,  Sir  Thomas,  remarks  on  Ckdborae 

Baber's  paper  on  China  in  some  of  its 

Physical  and  Social  Aspects,  454 
Wady  Arabah,  the,  675 
Sudr,  Beoonnaissance   Sketch    of. 

Map  of,  nmde  under  direction  of  0>lQnel 

C.  Warren  (New  3Iaps),  436 
Waganda  tribe,  the,  480 


INDEX. 


799 


Wagner,  Dr.  H.,  The  German  Empire  and 
I^ighbouring  Countries  (New  Maps), 
183 

J.  B.,  Qeneral  Mop  of  Bohemia 

(New  Maps),  183 

Wahab,  Lieut.,  referred  to,  720 

Waigats,  603 

Waigattel.  602 

Waigalz  Island,  97,  660,  661 

Wftimftntt  Pass,  Persia,  78 

Wakefield,  Mr.,  letter  from,  99 

Rev.  Thomas,  380 

conunimicatioD  on 

the  Wakwafl  raid,  289 

grant  of  instru- 
ments to,  415 

Wakhan,  India,  614 

Wakwafi  raid  on  the  district  near  Mom- 
basa, 289 

Wala  river,  surveyed  by  Dr.  E.  Boehm 
and  P.  Beichard  (New  Maps!  184 

Waliabad  to  Towar,  Lieut.-Ool.  Beresford 
Lovott's  Itinerary,  60 

Walker,  General,  487 

report  of  the  work  of  a 

native  explorer  ih  India,  169 

Lieut.-Gen.  J.  T.,  Account  of  the 


Operations  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical 
Survey  of  India  (New  Books),  748 

Genera]  Beport 


on  the  Operetions  of  the  Survey  of  India, 
&c.  (New  Books),  368 

work  in  India, 


383 

Wallace,  Mr.,  505 

WalviBch  Bay,  South-west  Africa,  470 
Wanderings  in  a  Wild  Country,  by  Wilfred 

Powell  (New  Books),  433 
Wandorobcr  tribe,  541 
Wandurobo  tribe,  532 
Wang-chu,  or  "  sign- posts  "  before  the  tombs 

in  the  Imperial  Mausolea,  China,  28 
Wantan,  Plain  of,  China,  446 
Wanyoro  tribe,  the,  480 
Wapiti,  the,  in  Athabasca  district,  640 
Warren,  Colonel,  C,   Reconnaissance    of* 

Arabia  Potrsea  and  Wady  Sudr,  maps  of, 

made  under  direction  of  (New  Maps), 

436 
Warrior  reef.  New  Guinea,  517    • 
Wathington,  the,  489 
Wax-insect  of  Western  China,  673,  674 
Webbe  or  Wobbi  river,  Africa,  717 
Weddell,  Dr.,  referred  to,  322 
Wedderbume  troding-pOst  of  the  Hudson's 

Bay  Company,  652 
Weide,  Captain,  406 
Weis.  village  of,  155 
Welde,  Captain,  603 
Welle,  Dr.  Junker's  journey  on  the,  33 

Island,  509 

—  ■■      or  Makua river,  34 

river,  discoveries  around,  381 

Welle  river,  695 

Welh^  Captain,  125,  383 

-— and  Mr.  Baring,  journeys 

of,  in  South-western  FeraiAf  128,  129 


Wells,  Capfadn,  Survey  of  the  obetruction    ' 
in  the  river  Kariin  at  Ahwaz,  127 

Surveying      Tours     in 

Southern    Persia,     oommonicated    l>y 
Colonel  J.  U.  Batemaa  Champain,  138 
et  seq, 
Welwitsohia,  the,  growing  in  West  Africa, 

696 
Wen  Gau,  Cape,  603 
Weri-weri  river,  547 
Westbeach  and  Walsh,  Messrs.,  167 
Wharton,  Captain,  594 
White,  Lieutenant,  594 

Robert  Blake,  385 

• "Notes  on  the  Central 

Provinces  of  Colombia,  249  et  aeq. 
Whitely,  Henry,  grants  of  instmments  to, 

415 
Whitney,  J.  D.,  The  Climatic  Otiaogeit  of 
later  Geological  Times;  a  Discussion 
based  on  Observations  made  in  the  Cor- 
dilleras of  North  America  (New  Books), 
114 
Wichman,  E.  H.,  map  of  Grtat  Britain  and 

Ireknd  (New  Maps),  435 
Wide  river  ("  KaminUti  Kwga  "X  635 
Wiesbaden,  Topographical  Map  of  (New 

Maps),  309 
Wilczek,  Count,  555 
Willaoumez  Island,  volcano  of,  511 
WUlem  Barents,  the,  213,  223, 379, 556 

Captains  of,  1878-83,  348 

the,  sixth  voyage  ^  348, 

660  ' 

Willes  Gulf,  599 
WiUiams,  R.  C ,  letter  from,  484 
William'^  river,  Athabasca  district,  645 
Wind  Lake,  Athabtisca  district,  646 
Wissmann,  Lieutenant,  99,  103,  178,  237 

and  Dr.  Piigge,  journey  across 

Africa  of,  380,  381 

journey  across  Africa,  106, 103 

•  progressof  Expedition  in  Africa, 


174 


■  projected  expedition  of^  659 


Witti,  Mr.,  explorer  of  North  Borneo,  384 
Wobbi  or  Webbe  river,  Africa,  717 
Wohlgemuth,  Lieutenant,  554 
Wollaston,  Liike,  North  America,  €44,  645 
Wood  Cape,  Lieutenant  RosmysslofTs  hut 

at,  662 
World,  Journal  of  a  Lady's  Travels  round 

the,  by  F.  D.  Bridges  (New  Books),  183 
map   of  the,   by   Larochette   et 

Mayer  (New  Maps),  115 

on  Mercator's  projection,  chart  of 


the.  Dr.  H.  Berghaus  (New  Maps),  51 

map    of 


the,  by  J.  Broiohmann  (New  Maps),  683 
.  Telegraph  Map  of  the,  by  F.  Le-B. 


Bed  well,  B.N.  (New  Maps),  373 
Worsaae,  Herr,  letter  from,  496 
Wu,   General,  Commissioner  for  Corean 

Affairs,  283 
Wu-ming-hsien,  city  of,  China,  442 
Wynne,  Mounl^  North-western  Australia, 

i23 


800 


INDEX. 


X. 

XuANDAT  harbonr,  236 


Y. 

Ya-Lukg-C5hia»o  river,  665 

Yaoliilan,  Fuss  de,  Guatemala,  201 

Yahamahua,  487 

Yakima  Region,  map  of,  Northern  Trans- 
continental Survey  (New  MapX  630 

Yalcutsk,  severity  of  cold  at,  400 

YdlCi,  river,  Persia,  63 

Yjiman-Airakty,  Bay  of,  392 

Yangtsze  river,  China,  441 

Yang-tztt  river,  665 

y'antic.  United  States  steamer,  602,  733 

Yao  slave  and  ivory  caravan,  397 

Yasin,  615 

Yassin,  553 

Yavorski,  M.,  referred  to,  105 

Yell&ld,  rapids  of,  West  Africa,  697,  698 

Yellow  Head  Pass.  Nortli  America,  635 

Knives     ("  Tal'tsan-Dessd  "),    or 

Des  Seins  river,  Nortli  America,  646, 
647 

—  ("T'altsan  Ottind")  tribe. 


651 


river,  104,  237 


Yeshil-Kul,  India,  614 

Ynnmbari  or  Huari-huari  river,  Bolivia, 

315,  322 
Ynca  Yupanqui,  troops  of  the,  319 
Yong-jong,  island  of,  277 
York,  Cape,  364,  602 
Grate    Geographical    and    Colonial 

Library,  Catalogue  of  (New  Books),  50 
Young,  .fames,  of  Kelly,  Obituary  of,  354 

Sir  Allen,  referred  to,  213 

remarks  on  the  Second  Voyage  of 

the  Eira  to  Franz-Josef  Land,  221 
Ysiamas,  town  of,  Bolivia,  328,  835 
Yucatan  and  Mexico,  andeut  monuments 

of,  427 
Yukon,  Karto  des  Tschilkat-Gebietes  mit 

den   Passen  zum,  von  Dr.  A.  Krause 

(New  Maps),  750 
Yule,  Colonel,  referred  to,  447 
remarks  on  Olborne  Saber's 

paper  on  China  in  some  of  its  Pxiysical 

and  Social  Aspects,  456 
Yun-nan,  China,  451-453,  456,  457 
Yun  Sijans,  the,  673 
Y^sh  village,  Persia,  62 
Yusufzai  Hills,  616 


Z. 

Zacapa,  Plain  or,  Guatemala,  189 

Zahrtmann,  Admiral,  728 

Zama,  ancient  town  of,  discovery  of,  298 

Zambesi  and  Shire  rivers,  map  of  (New 
Maps),  309 

New  Portuguese  Sur- 
veys, Kiepert  (New  Maps),  629 

and  Umvukwe  Mountains,  countrj' 

between  the,  2(38 

Vhre   Depclchin   on   the  native 


tribes  of  the,  167 
Zangi-diwan  Pass,  India,  614 
Zanzibar,  M.  G.  Bevoil's  work  in,  428 
Zapatera  volcano,  Central  America,  670 
Zi^iotilla  volcano.  Central  America,  670 
Zaragoza,  town,  CJolurabia,  253^ 
Zaeear  range,  615,  622 
Zea,  Senor,  266 

Zeballos,  Dr.  Estan,  letter  from,  360 
Zeila,  365 

Pasha  of,  495 

Zendarud  river,  Persia,  144,  145 

Zendjan  to  Tacht  i  Soleiniftn,  route  from,  by 

Gen.  A.  Houtum-Schindler  (New  Maps), 

749 
Zeni,  Voyages  and  Maps  of  the,  letter  from 

B.  H.  Major  on,  725 

Voyages  of  the,  in  tl»e  North,  by 

Japetus  Steenstmp  (New  BooksX  681 

Zeno,  Niccol6,  referred  to,  474 

Zeno's  Travels,  The  Brothers,  by  A.    E. 

NordenskiOld  (New  Books),  372 
Zenufana,  or  "  Land  of  Gold,"  region,  251 
Zerdab  river,  the,  157 
Zerre,  Mount,  146 

Ziarat-i*Kh^rud,  village  of,  Persia,  75 
to  Astrabad,  Lieut-Col.  Beresfcml 

Lovett's  Itinerary,  75 

village  of,  Persia,  82 

Zichmni,  726 

Zit  gler.  Dr.  J.  M.,  Obituary  of,  293 

A    Geographical    Text    on    the 

Geological    Map   of   the   Earth    (New 
Books),  500 

Wall -maps  of  Switzerland   (New 


MapsX  627 

Zoller,  Hu};o,  The  Panama  (}unal  (New 
Books),  49 

Zulus,  tribes  related  to  the,  iu  South- 
eastern Africa,  285 

Znnibo,  town  of,  Afiicii,  2G8 

Ztfr-abdd,  town,  11 

and  Dogarou,  roads  between,  10 

to  Pul-i-khatiin,  roads  from,  11 

Zuri  river,  Bolivia,  341 


(    801    ) 


INDEX  TO  MAPS. 


AFRICA. 


Congo  Bivcr,  from  its  mouth  to  Bolubo, 

632 
KaeaitoNyansrwe,  Pogge  and  Wissmann's 

ronte  from,  184 
Masai  Country,  sketch-map  of  Mr.  Last's 

and  Dr.  Baxter's  Journeys  in  the,  568 
Mavia  Country,  the,  440 
Nyaasa,  Lake,  752 


Sabi  River,  Delta  and  Lower  Oonrae  of  the, 

272 
Southern  Part  of  the  Portngnese  West 

African  Poesessiona,  504 
South- West  Africa  (Physioal  Hap).  752 
Umfule  and  the  Zambesi,  sketcn-inap  of 

Routes  between  the,  269 


AMERICA. 


Athabasca  District,  North-west  Territory 

of  the,  688 
Beni  River,  376 


Colombia,  the  Central  and  Western  Pro* 

vinoes  of,  312 
Guatemala,  248 
Patagonia,  East  Central,  85 


ARCTIC. 
Barents  Sea ;  Track  of  Hr.  Leigh  Smith's  Expedition  of  1881 A  248. 


ASIA. 


Elbnrz    Range,    North   Persia,    Colonel 

Lovett's  Survey,  120 
Hari-rud  and  Murgliab  rivers,  sketch-map 

of  the  country  between  the,  56 


Mand  or  Kara  Aghatoh  river,  713 
Persia,  South-western,  Routes  in,  184 
Tejend  Oasis,  the,  and  Roads  to  Merr,  56 


INDEX  TO  ILLUSTBATIONa 


AMERICA. 


House  at  Usnmaointa,  Guatemala,  199 
Pyramidal  Temple,  Tikal,  Guatemala,  194 

ARCTIC. 

Plan  of  Flora  Cottage,  Cape  Flora,  Franz-Josef  Land,  Mr.  Leigh  Smith's  winter 
quarters,  215 

ASIA. 

Plan  of  a  Tomb  iti  the  Imperial  3Jauso1ea,  China,  26 

^Section  across  the  hypothetical  general  direction  of  Antiolinals,  from  Astrabad  to 
Shahrud,83 


No.  Xn.— Dbo.  1883.] 


3  o 


•  LONDON: 

PniSTED  BY  WILLIAX  CLOWES  AKD  80X8,  LDCITEDy 
8TAMFUnD  8TBEET  AND  CUABING  CBOSS.