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PROGRESSIVE 
COOKERY ^ 



BY (DRS. E. A\. HINCKLEY 



- >: .. + .; . + ; ^ + ; 




THE LIBRARY 

OF 

THE UNIVERSITY 
OF CALIFORNIA 

LOS ANGELES 





IT WASHES' THEM WHITER AND SOFTER 
THAN ANY OTHER BRAND 



IT NEEDS NO 

^*,^IT NEEDS NO BOILER 

Wielanfc & SDinmore 

MAKE IT 







^ X\i CA-AAA. 

. 



Good- Bye, Milkman! 



USE 



HIGHLAND" 




(Team 



// is prepared with neatness and 
scrupulous care, always as pure, sound 
and natural as it comes fresh from 
healthy cows, always ready for use, keeps 
perfectly sweet as long as the can remains 
closed and thoroughly takes the place of 
eitbet raw mik or cream if properly 
diluted. 

Of special value for infant feeding, 
being completely sterilised. 

/'OK SALE RY 

GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS 



Prepared by 



Helvetia Milk Condensing Co. 



HIGHLAND, ILL. 




THE LEADING 
TOURIST AND 




FAMILY HOTEL 
ON THE COAST 



CORNER OF SUITER AND JONES STREETS 

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



Large and Sunny Rooms En Suite or Single, for Families and Transient 
Sanitary Plumbing and all Modern Improvements. 

SPECIHL INDUCEMENTS TO EflSTERN TOURISTS 

CUISINE UNSURPASSED 



A\RS. A\. E. PE/MDi-ETOtt, Prop. 

BUTTERICK & GO'S 



Celebrated 
For Ladies, Misses, boys and Little Children's Garments 

Catalogues mailed free 

H. K. 

124 POST STREET 



SAN FRANCISCO 



THESE ENGRAVINGS REPRESENT 




ACCURATE AND USEFUL 



FOR SALE ONLY BY 

Mrs. E. M. Hinckley 

Orders may be left at 

Robertson's Book Store 

126 POST STREET, S. F. 




AT 



COOK BOOKS 

Robertson's 



126 POST STREET, S. F. 




RUSSIAN COFFEE POT 

For making Drip Coffee 



By using this Coffee Pot, double the usual 
quantity of coffee may be made from the 
same amount of ground coffee. It not only 
boils, but steams the coffee. While the water 
is boiling the steam ascends and permeates 
the ground coffee, and when the water boils 
the bowl is reversed by touch ing the handle 
and the water drips slowly through, carry- 
ing with it the full strength and aroma of 
the coffee, no steam or aroma escaping. 

We have them in sizes to hold from two 
cups to twelve cups each, at prices from 
$3.50 to $8.50 a piece. 

They are made of brass, handsomely 
mounted, and suspended from a brass arch, 
and beneath is a stationary alcohol lamp. 

Coffee made in this way should be prepared 
on the table, just prior to time of serving it; 
less than five minutes are required to pre- 
pare it. It is particularly recommended for 
after-dinner (black) coffee. 

This pot will soon pay for itself by the 
great quantity of coffee saved. 

FOB SALE ONLY BY 

GOLDBERG, BOWEN 




LEBENBAUM 



J=R7SNCISCO. 




Waiifs 




ESTKBL.ISHED 1556 

213 SUTTER STREET 

Near Kearny Street San Francisco, Cal. 



Only the best of material is used in our establishment, and therefore our 
products are strictly first class. Terrapin Stew a Specialty. Wedding 
Breakfasts, Overland Lunches prepared. Family trade solicited. 

The Family Dining-Rootn connected with our establishment offers 
the best inducements to Eastern Visitors who are in search of a quiet, 
elegantly appointed Restaurant of undoubted excellence. 

SWAIN BROTHERS, 213 Sutter Street 

No connection with any other establishment. 



IK YOU WISH TO 



Bake or Roa^t 



WITHOUT, AT THE SAME TIME 



Quickly 
Evenly 
Thoroughly^ 
Economically 



ROASTING THE COOK 




THE MONITOR STEEL RANCEI 



HOLB^OOK, MET^ILL & STETSO^ 
San Francisco and Sacramento 

Sole Agents for the Pacific Coast 







Extract of DCCC 
utti. 



The best and most economical "Stock" for I A 

T Soups, Etc. % 

?f One pound equals forty-five pounds of h* 

prime lean Beef. N< 

Send to us for our book of receipts, showing H 
U use of ARMOUR'S EXTRACT in Soups and 
A Sauces. 






ARMOUR & CO., Chicago. Z 



FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS 



W. F. BECK & CO. * 

Commission Merchants 

OFFICE AND SALESROOMS: WAREHOUSE: 

112 and 1 14 California St. 30 and 32 Fremont St. 

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



BRKNCH HOUSES 

PORTLAND, OREGON - - - - 26 North Front Street 

CHICAGO, IM,. - . 55 wabash Avenue 

1,08 ANGELES, CAI,. . aa8 West Second Street 

REPRESENTING ON PACIFIC COAST 

PRICE BAKING POWDER Co., Chicago, 111. LAUTZ BROS & Co. Soaps, Buffalo, N. Y. 

NATIONAL STARCH MFG. Co., New York, N. Y. L. MCMURRAY PACKING Co., Fredrick, Md. 
TOWLK SYRUP Co., St. Paul, Minn. 'PAERELL Co.-Syrups, Omaha, Neb. 

COOPER'S OLIVB OIL. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

COMPILED FROM 

A SERIES OF LESSONS GIVEN AT THE SCHOOL OF COOKERY 

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF 

MRS. E. M. HINCKLEY 

AUTHOR OK "CHAFING DISH COOKERY," "INVALID COOKERY," 

ETC., ETC. 

f 



MRS. E. M. HINCKLETS SERVICES 

CAN BE SECURED FOR 

Demonstration Lessons in Cookery, American and Foreign 
And Lessons in Practical Cookery. 



The Invalid Course to Nurses at Hospitals and Lessons at Private 

Institutions are the same as given at the 

Public Schools of Boston. 

For Particulars, address the Publishers, as below. 
f 

San jfrancisco printing Co. 

JAS. A. PABISER, MANAGKK 
1892. 



MEDICAL OBSTETRICAL SURGICAL 

[Confinement] 

"Alpha" Male ^ Female Nurses', Dressers'^ Masseurs' Agency 

Established July, 188'J. Registered at Sacramento, February. 1S92. 

FRANK E. GOODBAN, Proprietor MRS. F. K. GOODliAX, Manager 

Main Office, 1117 Van Ness Ave., bet. Geary and Tost Streets, S. F., < ;il. 

L. D. TELEPHONE li.'iT!'. 



Branches: S3 Grant Ave. (open all night), 131, Suffer, SIM Geary, 1113&SOOO Market >7.--.. / Fran- 
cisco; cor. Seventh & Market and 1201 Broadway Sts., Oakland: a A Second Ave., San .Uatui: Fourth 
& KSts., Sacramento; 9!& Main St., Stockton; E. Santa Clara ct- Second Sts., San Jose: ,',<> / 
Ave., Santa Cruz; Fourth and B Sts., San Rafael; Park St. fr Santa Clara Ave., Alamcda: and 
Center and Shattnck Sts., Berkeley. 

Experienced and reliable MALE and FEMALE Professional Nurses (with or without 
diplomas). Dressers or Masseurs furnished for every kind of disease, at ANY HOUR of the 
DAY or NIGHT, to all parts of the city or country. No FEE CHARGED FOR FURNISHING THEM. 

OVERTWO HUNDRED PICKED NURSEsof all ages, religions, nationalities and training (from 
the best hospitals in America and Europe) onits list. 

Leeching, Cupping, Catheterizing and Dressing of any kind performed (instrument* 
provided), Anaesthetics administered, Operations and Autopsies attended, liaths (medicated 
or otherwise given), also Galvanic and Faradic Electricity or Massage Treatment, at private 
residences by skilled dressers subject to the instructions of the patient's doctor. 

Helpless and insane patients accompanied to and brought from distant places, in a care- 
ful and satisfactory manner by responsible attendants furnished with all the requisite 
appliances. 

TERMS: REGULAR NURSES (1st grade): FEMALE, (for female patients) $20 to $25; (for male 
and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $25. per week MALE, $5 per day or 
night (of twelve hours), $8 for both. DITTO, (2d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) 120, (for 
male and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $20 to $25 per week MALK. $ I 
to $5 per day or night, $7 to $8 for both. 

ASSISTANT OR SOCIETY NURSES (3d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) |16: (for male and 
insane patients) $16to$20 per week, MALE, $3 to |4 per day or night, $5 to $6 for both. Female 
Nurses by the day: First grade, f3.75; Second Do., $3 to $3.50: Third Do., $2.30 to $2.75. 

Nurses' meals, massage treatments and traveling expenses for any member sent outside 
of San Francisco are additional to the above rates. 

DRESSERS, MALE OR FEMALE, $2 to $5 per visit. MASSEURS, MALE, general treatments $2 to 
$2.50, local treatments three for $5. Female, general treatments $1.50 to $2.00, local treatments 
three for $4. Dressers' and Masseurs' prices are for the city only, country visits extra. 

For Itemized Prices see Price Lists at the Agency's Main or Branch Offices, which its 
members are not permitted to exceed when engaged on cases coming through it, any reduc- 
tion in the same being left to their own option. 

N. B. All the members of this Agencv are required to furnish the favorable recommen- 
dations of three physicians as to their habits and proficiency, before being placed on its list. 
and are only retained on it during such time as they prove reasonably satisfactory to their 
employers; they are in addition divided into three grades, according to their ability, 
experience, training, manner and duration of satisfactory membership, their prices 
varying accordingly, the 1st grade consisting of those who have been tried on the Agency's 
cases and found entirely competent and satisfactory; the 2d either new members or those 
not sufficiently qualified for the former class, the 3d are attendants only. Doctors and 
patrons will greatly aid the proprietor in his endeavors to supply none but satisfactory and 
competent persons'by reporting to his wife (the manager) or himself, if disengaged, at the 
Main Office, should any serious neglect or fault be committed, or overcharge be made, by 
one of its members while in their employ, and such communications will be at once seen to 
and, if wished, held strictly confidential; as changes for said reasons in the Agency's staff 
are occasionally made by him, he guarantees as members only those sent from it. either direct 
or through its branch offices, at the time the order for the nurse is given. No attention 
should be paid to nurses who state that they are members of this Agency, unless endorsed 
at the Main Office, as many represent themselves as such, whose applications have not been 
received, or whose names" through some fault on their part have been removed from its 
list. 

Back Rests and Bed Tables, Rubber Rings, and Mattresses, Bed Pans, 
Night Stools, Nurses Supplies and all the latest Mechanical Comforts for 
Invalids for sale C. O. D. Invalid Chairs for sale or rental. 



EXPLANATORY 



A rook hook cannot l>e like an encyclopedia. If all the explana- 
tions necessary were given for each recipe, this work would fill 
volumes. 

All the money in the world will not bring ahout looked-for results 
in cooking, unless all the materials are properly prepared. 

All odds and ends left over from the tahle should be put carefully 
away, as they can be utilized in various ways. 

Bread Crumbs that cannot be used for toast or puddings, may be 
dried in the oven (not browned) rolled, sifted, and put away in a 
jar, and are much better than crackers, for rissoles, croquettes, oys- 
ters, etc. Stale bread crumbs are made by simply rubbing through 
the palms of the hands. 

To Cooks. Make use of everything. Waste nothing. Have no 
prejudices. Be careful, clean and j>i<,n-tn<tl. Take as much interest 
with the family you are with as if it were your own. Work con- 
scientiously, not merely for wages received. 

Measurements. Be careful in measuring. Do not think this or 
that will do. If you have not the ic*1c<l measuring cups, uee an 
ordinary cup. being careful at all times to use one of uniform size. 

Have flour, powdered sugar, mustard and salt sifted before meas- 
uring. Fill your measures with a spoon to prevent air spaces. A 
cupful of dry material should be rounded, then leveled off. 

A teaspoon or tablespoon of flour, butter, sugar, or baking powder, 
are measured rounding. 

A teaspoon or tablespoon of salt, pepper or mustard are level 
spoonfuls. A speck of pepper is what can be taken up on the end 
of a penknife. One-half teaspoon is accurately measured by divid- 
ing through the middle lengthwise. A saltspoon is one-fourth of 
a teaspoon. A heaping teaspoon or tablespoon is all they will hold. 

A tablespoonful of melted butter should be measured after being 
melted. Butter the size of an egg is a quarter of a cup. 



EXPLANATORY 

Four cups of flour equal one quart or one pound. 

Two cups of solid butter equal one pound. 

Two cups of granulated sugar equal one pound. 

Two and one-half cups of powdered sugar equal one pound. 

These measurements are for the tested measuring cups. 

Four tablespoons of liquid equal one wine-glass. 

One heaping tablespoon of sugar equals one ounce. 

Two round tablespoons of flour equal one ounce. 

One round tablespoon of butter equals one ounce. 

Nine large eggs and ten medium eggs equal one pound. 

One gill equals one-half cupful. 

General Directions. The water in which meats are cooked to 
retain their juices, such as boiled mutton, chicken, etc., is not strong 
enough to "be used for broths, but may be used for meat sauces, cro- 
quettes, blanquettes, etc., or reduced and added to soup stock or 
purees. 

Water. Water contains oxygen. When water is boiled the air 
escapes. It is then dead water, and if boiled a number of times in 
the same vessel, such as a tea-kettle, a crust will form, and after 
awhile will peel off, causing a rattling in the kettle. When through 
with the water in your tea-kettle pour it out, and when needed 
replenish with fresh water. Water boils at 212 degrees, and will 
become no hotter. 

A. small piece of charcoal added to cabbage or cauliflower while 
cooking prevents any unpleasant odor. 

When soup stock is called for in a recipe, and not convenient, 
extract of meat may be substituted. Meat, after being once cooked. 
then warmed over again in any form, should only be heated, as 
boiling will harden. 

Meat should be immediately removed from butcher's brown paper, 
as it absorbs the juices. 

In bean soups a thin slice of salt pork can be added when the 
beans are cooking. 

Clarify deep fat by boilftig a potato in it, and then straining. Fat 
that has been used for doughnuts, and become brown, can be clari- 
fied and strained through a cloth ajid used for frying croquettes. 
Strain all fats after using. 

All grease that has been removed from soups, roasts, etc., should 
be set on the fire and boiled with a raw potato, strained and set 
away; it is better than butter for many purposes, especially hashes. 

Test for hot fat : When the fat begins to smoke put in a bit of 
bread. If it brown quickly, it is hot enough. 



KX I'LANATOKY 



If salt is put in with beans when first put on to cook it will hard- 
en them. Add salt when nearly cooked. 

1'owdered sweet herbs are one bunch each of thyme, marjoram, 
summer savory and sage, one-quarter of a pound of bay leaves, 
Pound, sift and mix thoroughly. The bay leaf of California is too 
pungent: use the imported. 

After greasing pans for cake, sprinkle over a little flour to keep 
the cake from sticking to pan. 

If boiled custard curdles stir in teaspoon of cold milk. 

For soups and sauces that contain milk, the milk must be hot 
before adding the seasoning. Salt put into cold milk will curdle it. 

Green Sage placed in a pantry will keep out red ants. 



RULES 

It is impossible t<> give dirert rules for roasting. 

I toast meats, rare - per pound, ten minutes. 

Roast meats, well done per pound, fifteen minutes. 

Lamb ami veal - - per pound, twenty minutes. 

Turkey ten ]>ound, three hours. 

( 1 hirken - three pound, one hour. 

<iame, rare - twenty minute:-. 

Tame dnrk - forty minutes. 

Fish - eight pounds, till flesh will break or one hour. 

YI:<;KTAHI.KS 

New potatoes, small boil twenty minutes. 

Potatoes, old - - one-half hour. 

Teas, new - - twenty-live minutes. 

Peas, old from one-half to one hour. 

String heans from one-half to one hour and a half. 

Onions and turnips - from one to one hour and a half. 

Carrots and cabbage - from one to one hour and a half. 

Cauliflower and asparagus - one-half hour. 

Artichokes from one-half to three-quarters of an hour. 

Vegetables must be put^into Iioilliuj salted water to prevent the 
nutritious qualities from escaping. 

Potatoes must be peeled before boiling. A bitter, indigestible juice 
lies near the skin. Do not leave the potatoes in cold water any 
length of time before cooking, because it draws out the starch! etc. 

Potatoes that are to be cooked in deep fat, should lay ill salted 
water a few hours, and dried in a cloth before cooking. 




Mural Fruit Flavors 



Vanilla 
Lemon 
Orange 
Rose, etc. 




Flavorings 

as Represented 



One single trial will prove that for Flavor- 
ing lee-Cream, Cakes, Puddings, Sauces, 
etc., they are superior in delicacy of flavor, 
strength and purity to any ever used 

Unequalled in Purity 
Unequalled in Strength 
Unequalled in Economy 
Unequalled in Flavor 

PRICE FLAVORING EXTRACT CO, 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 



SOUPS 



Meat Soups. Wash soup meat quickly with a piece of cheese 
cloth wrung out in cold water, to prevent the juices escaping. 

Dark Meat Stock. Two and one-half pounds of the shin of 
l>eef, half a pound of liver and any trimmings of meat you may have, 
a veal bone; two and one-half quarts of cold water, teaspoon of salt, 
six whole cloves, six black pepper corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, one 
inch blade of mace, a stalk of celery, one carrot, onion and turnip 
chopped. Soak the meat in the water one and one-half hours before 
heating; then add vegetables, spices and herbs; simmer seven hours 
and strain. AVhen needed for soup remove the fat and it will be 
ready for use. Soup stock keeps longer without vegetables. Never 
add water to soup after it begins to simmer. 

Consomme, or White Soup Stock. The above recipe will 
answer for white stock, using, instead of beef, veal or one large 

chicken. 

Clearing- for Consomme or Bouillon. Skim off all the fat. 
Turn the soup into the pot, being careful not to turn in the sediment, 
and set on the fire. Beat the white and shell of two eggs with one 
cup of cold water. Stir into the soup, and when it comes to a boil 
set back where it will come to a simmer twenty minutes. Strain 
through a napkin wet in ice water, and if not ready to use, put away 

17 



18 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

in a cool place. Ordinarily do not clear your soups, as the albumen 
is contained in the sediment, and is the most nourishing part of the 
soup. A piece of liver added to dark soups is considered by many 
an improvement. All milk soups and sauces should be cooked in 
double boiler. 

Royal Custard. Half a cup of consomme. Beat the yolks of 
the two eggs (left from cleared consomme), and one-quarter tea- 
spoon of salt, stir into the consomm/. Butter a cup, pour in 
the custard, put the cup in a deep pan, and surround with hot water- 
Cook on the top of stove or in the oven until firm in the center. Let 
the custard cool. Turn out, cut in cubes, and add to consomme 
after it is dished. 

Julienne Soup. One quart of stock, one scant pint of mixed 
vegetables. Cut vegetables with French cutter, and celery and 
onions into shreds. Cover with one pint of boiling water, when 
cooked add the one quart of hot stock. Season to taste. A little 
Worcestershire sauce may be added. 

Macaroni and Vermicelli Soup. One quart of stock, one cup of 
vermicelli, or two to three sticks of macaroni, cooked until soft in 
salted water. Drain and add the quart of hot stock; season to taste. 

Rice, Tapioca and Barley Soup. Two tablespoons of rice, tapi- 
oca or barley, cooked until tender, in boiling salted water, then pour on 
one quart of hot stock. Barley must be soaked one hour and boiled 
two hours or more. Rice is better with mutton or chicken stock ; 
season to taste. 

Tomato Soup. One quart of stock, one can of tomatoes ; cook 
the tomatoes until soft enough to strain. Strain and add to one 
quart of hot stock, season to taste, add one teaspoon of sugar and two 
tablespoons of boiled rice. 



I'WHiKKSSIYK COOKKKY 19 

Mixed Vegetable Soup. One quart of stock. Chop one Final 1 
carrot, one onion, one turnip, one parsnip, one tablespoon of parsley, 
one stalk of celery, one cup of strained tomatoes. Cook vegetables 
and tomatoes together, add a quart of hot stock. Some people prefer 
the onion fried, as it gives a richer flavor. Season. 

Split Pea Soup. One-half pint of split peas, one quart of cold 
water, a speck of soda, one small carrot, one small turnip, one small 
onion, a stalk of celery. Pick over and wash the peas, put on, with 
the water and soda : cook on the back of the stove one hour. Then 
add the vegetables, which must be cut small and previously boiled 
until tender in another saucepan, seasoning with one-half teaspoon 
of sugar, one teaspoon of salt and a speck of pepper; simmer one 
hour more, or until soft. Hub through a strainer. Heat again, and 
stir into the soup one-half tablespoon of butter mixed with one-half 
tablespoon of flour. Serve with fried croutons of bread, or toasted 
crackers. 

Lentil Soup. Make the same as split pea soup, using more water. 
This excellent vegetable is not generally known, but is much superior 
to beans or dried peas. Most of what we receive here comes from 
(ierinany. Many persons consider them more expensive than beans 
or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four times their size 
when soaked. 

Noodles for Soup. Break one large egg into a bowl. Beat into 
it one cup of flour. Work with the hands until like putty. Dredge 
a bread board slightly with flour. Put the noodle mixture on the 
board, sprinkle the rolling pin with flour, and roll as thin as 
possible. It should l>e so thin you can look through it. Let it dry 
for ten minutes, then roll it up and cut with a sharp knife into very 
thin slices; spread on the board and dry again for one-half hour. 
Cook rapidly fifteen minutes in boiling water, with one tablespoon 
of salt. Put half the noodles into soup. Fry the others in browned 
butter, and use as a vegetable. 



20 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Italian Soup. Any dark stock will answer. Cook vermicelli or 
spaghetti; put in hot tureen, grate on some cheese and stir. Pour 
over the boiling stock and serve. 

Ox Tail Soup. Four ox tails, one onion, two tablespoons of 
butter, or beef drippings, four quarts of cold water, a bouquet, four 
cloves, six whole peppers. Have the ox tails separated at the joints. 
Fry chopped onion in hot butter or drippings ; when brown put into 
soup kettle with bouquet, cloves, whole peppers and ox tails; pour 
over the four quarts of cold water, and add one tablespoon of salt, 
dimmer five hours. Select the nicest of joints to serve in soup; 
strain, put away until cold, remove fat, add the joints and heat. 
Put in hot tureen one tablespoon of wine and one slice of lemon. 
Season the soup to taste, pour into tureen and serve. 

Bouquet. One sprig each of thyme, sweet marjoram and summer 
savory, two leaves of sage, one bay leaf, tied with a sprig of parsley. 

Meat Glaze. Meat glaze is made by reducing to one- third )>y 
simmering, water that such meats as chicken, mutton, etc., have 
been boiled in. When properly made will keep for three or 
four months in a cold place. Put into air tight jars until needed. 

Mock Turtle Soup. One calf's head, one pound of lean beef, 
one carrot, one onion, one turnip, piece of celery, three eggs, one 
lemon, six whole peppers, six allspice, six cloves, bouquet, one table- 
spoon of salt. Scrape, wash and cleave the head removing the 
brains. Put into soup kettle with beef, spices, bouquet, etc., pour on 
four quarts of cold water. Chop vegetables, heat two tablespoons of 
butter or drippings, fry brown, add to soup. Cook head until tender 
and remove. Reduce stock to two quarts, strain, cool and remove 
fat; put stock on to boil ten minutes before serving. Brown two 
tablespoons of butter, stir in two tablespoons of flour, moisten with 
one cup of soup, stir into soup. Have two eggs boiled hard cut into 
dice. Make forcemeat balls of reserved brains. Have brains 



PROGKKSSIYK COOKERY 21 

blanched l>v j touring over them boiling water, then dropping in cold 
water, remove veins and skin; put on in boiling salted water, cook 
one-half hour, chop, season with pepper, salt and a speck of cayenne, 
squeeze in one-half lemon and a few drops of onion juice, one table- 
spoon of flour, one tablespoon of melted butter; beat yolk of remain- 
ing egg and add to mixture; form into balls the size of a nutmeg, 
roll in flour, brown in hot butter. Serve two in each soup plate. 
Put the hard boiled eggs into the tureen with two tablespoons of 
sherry. Pour over the !?oup. Serve. 

Gumbo Soup. Brown a tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, one 
chopped onion, with about one tablespoon of raw ham cut into dice 
shape, half a green pepper cut into small dice, half a tablespoon of 
salt and a teaspoon of pepper. Moisten with three pints of stock, 
add one tablespoon of raw rice, six sliced gumbos and one sliced 
tomato. Let all cook thoroughly for half an hour. 

Puree of Green Peas, Lima Beans, Corn, Celery, etc. One 
quart of fresh peas, or a can of French beans or corn, one quart of 
boiling water, one tablespoon of butter, one quart of milk or cream. 
Cook until soft in the boiling water, then rub through a puree sieve, 
moistening occasionally with water in which they were cooked. Put 
into a double boiler the pint of cream or milk, add one saltspoon of 
white pepper and one teaspoon of salt. Heat your sauce pan, put in 
the butter, add a teaspoon of flour, be careful not to burn, pour in a 
part of milk gradually. Return to double boiler, adding sifted 
vegetable ; cook all together for five minutes; serve hot. If not salt 
<MioUL r li add more. 

Puree of Spinach. Two quarts of spinach cooked one-half hour 
iritlmiit irrit,';-, chop, pound to a paste, rub through a sieve, add one 
quart of hot stock, melt three teaspoons of butter, stir in three table- 
spoons of flour, pour over the stock; cook ten minutes, add one pint 
of hot cream or milk. 



22 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Mullagatawney or Pepper-pot. Make a good soup stock of 
veal, rabbit or chicken; when tender remove and set aside white 
meat. Chop one Chili pepper, sour apple, two onions, melt one table- 
spoon of butter or dripping in a saucepan, fry the onions brown, 
then add apple, then one tablespoon of curry powder, one teaspoon 
of salt, one teaspoon of sugar. Have two quarts of stock hot; pour 
a little over mixture, then put all in soup kettle and cook five 
minutes; have ready four tablespoons of cooked rice, also white part 
of meat cut in small pieces; now add to soup one-half cup of cream, 
strain, add meat and rice, return to stove, heat but not boil. Cream 
may be left out. More salt may be needed. 

Cream of Lettuce. Wash thoroughly one head of lettuce; chop. 
Place in hot saucepan two tablespoons of butter; add lettuce; cook 
five minutes. Have one quart of white broth in soup kettle, add 
hot lettuce, season with one teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper, 
one-quarter saltspoon of nutmeg, bouquet; add four tablespoons of 
well-washed rice; cook forty-five minutes; strain through puree 
sieve, return to well-cleaned soup kettle and heat. Pour in one-half 
pint of sweet cream, heat again. Be careful not to boil. Serve. 

Sorrel Soup. Put one bunch of sorrel in one pint of water: stir 
until soft with wooden spoon. Fry one chopped onion in one 
tablespoon of butter to a light brown, season, add one pint of good 
gravy or stock. Boil up once, then put in one cup of hot cream. 

If stock is used, add two tablespoons of flour to butter. 

Cream of Rice. Wash and parboil one-half pound of rice. Add 
a tablespoon of butter. Drain, and cook in one quart of white stock 
until soft. Rub through a sieve, add one pint of cream, heat, sea- 
son, one teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper, add one cup of 
cooked asparagus tops. If too thick, thin with more stock. 

Bisque of Clams. Chop one quart of clams rather fine, add one 
quart of chicken stock, and simmer for an hour. Cut one onion 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 23 

fine, cook in three tablespoons of butter for fifteen minutes, being 
careful not to brown; then draw the onion to the side of the pan, 
and after pressing out all the butter, put the onion in with the 
dams. Add to the butter two tablespoons of flour, and stir until 
smooth and frothy, then add to the soup. Also one bay leaf, one 
sprig of parsley, one sprig of thyme, one blade of mace, one teaspoon 
of salt, and one-half teaspoon of white pepper. Simmer ten min- 
utes; then remove herbs and spice, and rub soup through puree 
sieve. Return to pot, and heat to boiling point. Add one pint of hot 
cream: heat again to boiling, and stand back until time to serve. 
Draw the soup forward. Add two well beaten eggs, and cook two 
minutes. Add more salt and pepper, if needed; serve immediately. 
This soup nnixt not boil after the eggs are added. 



Lobster Bisque. As fresh lobster cannot easily be procured in 
California, craw-fish may be substituted. One lobster, one and 
one-half pint of white stock, one pint of stale bread crumbs, one 
quart of thin cream, one teaspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of 
white pepper, bay leaf, sprig of parsley, blade of mace and celery, 
slice of onion, three tablespoons of butter, one of flour. Remove 
carefully from shell, cut in cubes the meat from the claws. Pound 
the rest to a paste in large mortar; then add the coral, and small 
red claws; pound again. Put this mixture into a soup kettle, add 
stock and seasoning. cook one-half hour, then put in bread crumbs, 
cook, but not boil, twenty minutes. Now strain through a French 
sieve, and return to the fire. Have the cream hot in the double 
boiler, heat saucepan, melt remainder of butter, add flour, cook, 
then gradually moisten with hot cream; pour into soup. Heat, but 
nut hnil. Add cubes of the fish; serve. This bisque must be 
a light pink. If claws and coral are not sufficient to color, add 
cooked tomato juice in which a speck of soda has been dissolved. 
Bisques and purges must be perfectly smooth ; strain a second time 
if necessary. This bisque is sold for $1 per plate in Paris. 



24 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Velvet Soup. One large chicken, or two pounds of veal, one-half 
pint of blanched almonds, one pint of eream, one pint of stale 
bread crumbs, two tablespoons of butter, two tablespoons of flour, 
three stalks of celery, an onion, slice of carrot, two bay leaves, two 
sprigs of parsley, two cloves, small piece of cinnamon, bit of mace, 
one-half tablespoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of white pepper. Clean 
the fowl, cover with water, simmer till tender. Take out the fowl, 
skim off the fat, and strain through a wet napkin into a stew-pan ; 
add bread, vegetables and spices, simmer one hour. Blanch almonds 
pounded to powder in a mortar, chop fine the white meat, then 
pound to a paste, adding a little of the cream to moisten. Rub 
stock, bread, almonds and fowl through a French sieve. Now add 
cream, bring to boiling point in double boiler. Put the butter in a 
hot saucepan, be careful not to brown, add the flour, and enough of 
the soup to make it flow; add to the soup mixture, and heat, Imt 
not boil. If not perfectly smooth strain again. 

Black Bean Soup. One pint of beans, soaked over night in two 
quarts of water. Pour off the water in the morning. Add two 
quarts more, then put on to cook. Slice one onion, fry in one table- 
spoon of butter, add to the beans, also a little celery. Simmer until 
the beans are tender; if the water evaporates add more, so as to 
have the same amount when cooked. Rub through a strainer, 
return to the stove, add saltspoon of mustard, tablespoon of butter 
mixed with one of flour; (this prevents the beans from settling.) 
Season to taste. Have two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, also lemon 
sliced thin, and one-half cup of wine in a hot tureen. Pour in the 
soup. Stock may be used instead of water, and is better, also a few 
tablespoons of tomato catsup. Serve with fried croutons. All bean 
soups may be made in this way. 

Potage a la Reine. Remove the fat from one quart of water in 
which a chicken has been boiled. Season highly with salt, pepper, 
celery, salt, and a little onion if desired, and put on to boil. Mash 



I'i:o<;i<KSSIVK rooKKKY -~> 

the yolk of three hard-boiled eggs fine, and mix them with one-half 
cup of bread crumbs soaked until soft in a little milk. Chop the 
white meat of the chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the 
_ r ir and bread paste. Add one pint of hot cream slowly, and then 
rub all into the hot chicken liquor. Simmer five minutes; add 
more salt, if needed, and if too thick add more cream, or if not thick 
enough more crumbs. It should be like a puree. Use the dark 
meat for croquettes. 

Mock Bisque Soup. One-half can of tomatoes, one quart of 
milk, one-fourth cup of butter, one tablespoon of flour, one teaspoon 
of salt, one-half saltspoon of white pepper. Stew the tomatoes till 
soft. Heat the milk in the double boiler. Heat the butter, add 
Hour, iln not 6rom, add enough of hot milk to make this pour eas- 
ily. Stir carefully into the boiling milk, cook ten minutes. Add 
salt and pepper to the tomatoes, also a saltspoon of soda. Strain 
into the milk. Serve very hot, with cheese canopees. 

Bisque of Crab. Meat of a small crab, one tablespoon of flour, 
one-quarter of a cup of butter, salt and pepper, a speck of cayenne, a 
few drops of onion juice, a grating of nutmeg. Chop the crab fine, 
season, add butter melted, and one cup of stale bread crumbs. Pour 
over this one quart of hot milk, stir, put in the soup kettle, cook 
ten minutes, xfrniii, heat again. Serve hot. It may need more 
seasoning. 

Claret Soup. Boil the claret with six whole cloves, a stick of 
<in nan ion a few minutes, add a teaspoon of sugar. Have one quart 
of stock boiled with one half cup of j>earled tapioca. Strain claret 
into the stock. Season and serve. 

Crofiton for Soup. Cut bread in slices one-half inch thick, 
remove the crusts, spread with butter, cut in cubes. 1'ut in the pan. 



26 PROGKKSS1YK COOKERY 

being careful to keep the buttered side up. Cook in the oven until 
golden brown. Serve hot; or heat butter in the frying pan, and fry 
the bread unbuttered. 

Baked Crackers. One-half teaspoon of butter to each whole 
cracker. Split round Boston crackers, spread them with a thin layer 
of butter. Put them buttered side up into a pan, and brown in a 
hot oven. Serve plain, or with soups and oyster stews. 

Baked Crackers with Cheese. Mix six tablespoons of grated 
cheese, a saltspoon of pepper, a speck of salt. Split six Boston 
crackers, butter them and put a teaspoon of the cheese mixture on 
them. Bake till crisp and brown. 

Cheese Canopees. Cut stale bread in slices one-half inch thick;, 
cut with small biscuit-cutter. Then cut the circles in half; they 
should be crescent shape. Spread with butter, sprinkle with pepper 
and Parmesan cheese. Brown in oven. 

Croiiton Souffle. Into half a pint of cold water stir, until smooth, 
one and a half cupfuls of flour, turn the same into a spider with a 
small cup of butter, cook and stir all the time until well done; when 
cooled add four beaten eggs; beat well and drop the dough in small 
round balls on a tin, fifteen minutes. 

Celery Soup. One head of celery, two cups of mashed potatoes, 
one onion, one quart of milk, one cup of whipped cream. Chop the 
best part of the celery. Put into double boiler the milk ; when hot 
season; add the celery potatoes and onion, cut in fine pieces. Cook 
forty moments, rub through a sieve, return to double boiler; when 
very hot pour into heated soup tureen, stir in the whipped cream. 

Cardinal Soup. One pint of white broth, one pint of good milk, 
one onion, a bouquet, six beets, two tablespoons of butter, two of flour, 
one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of white pepper. Boil 



PROGKKSSIYK COOKER V 21 

the beets till soft and strain out the juice. Put the broth and milk 
in double boiler, add the bouquet tied in a small piece of cheese 
cloth, when hot remove the bouquet. Heat the butter in hot 
saucepan and fry chopped onion till of a golden brown. Strain 
out the onion, add to the butter the flour, pour gradually over 
this a part of the hot milk and broth, then stir all into the double 
1 toiler. Cook five minutes, strain, add the hot juice of the beets. 
More seasoning may be needed. 

Okra Gumbo. One tender five-pound chicken, one onion, one-half 
do/en tomatoes, one and one-half dozen okra, browned flour, two red 
peppers. Wash the chicken clean and cut in small pieces. Puttwo 
tablespoons of butter in a saucepan, have the onion sliced and 
sprinkled with browned flour and fry a light brown, then add the 
red peppers cut up fine, then sprinkle the chicken with brown 
flour, then add sliced tomatoes and fry altogether a light brown. 
Put in soup kettle; add two quarts of hot water. Then add the 
sliced okra. season with salt to taste, cook two hours. This soup 
must be thick, dark and rich. Serve with rice cooked dry. 



FISH 



To be good fish m-uxt be fresh. Select those with flesh firm, eyes 
clear, the fins stiff, the gills red and hard to open. The success of 
the French in preparing fish is owing to the extreme care which they 
take both in the buying and the treatment before cooking. After 
cleaning carefully, lemon juice is squeezed over the fish, then 
peppered, salted and strewed with powdered sweet herbs and let 
stand one hour before cooking. Lemon juice makes fish flaky. 

Fish a la Normandie. Take two large mackerel or sole, have 
them boned. Stuffing: One dessertspoon of sifted sweet herbs, one 
cup of crumbs, two ounces of butter, one onion or shalot, one of 
chopped parsley, one of mushrooms. Spread the stuffing over the 
fish, season, place the other fish on top, with two ounces of butter 
dropped in bits over it. Put in oven, bake half an hour. When baked 
sprinkle with bread crumbs browned in hot butter, a little lemon juice, 
and serve with piquante sauce. 

Breaded Turbans of Flounders. Fillet three flounders, season 
and marinate with four tablespoons of melted butter, two tablespoons 
of lemon juice, and one tablespoon of chopped parsley. Koll them 
up, skewer, then roll in bread crumbs, then in egg, then again in 
dry stale bread crumbs. Fry four minutes in fat hot enough to 
brown a bit of bread in one minute. Serve with remoullde sauce. 
One flounder will cut into four fillets. To vary these, enclose an 
oyster or mushroom. Wooden toothpicks may be used for skewer- 
ing. Marinate is to dip in melted butter. Use a wire basket to 
fry in. 



PROGKKSSIVK COOKERY 29 

Fish en Papillate . Select six tomcods of equal size. Clean and 
stuff with dry stuffing. Season the outsides with salt and pepper, 
squeeze over it a few drops of lemon juice. Have ready six sheets 
of soft white paper, oiled, longer and wider than fish, put fish in 
center of paper. Lay on the paper one tablespoon of cooked fine 
herlis. lay the fish on top, spread another tablespoon of herbs and 
dressing on the fish, then fold the paper and turn up the edges. 
Serve hot in paper with Sauce Tartare. 

Cooked Fresh Herbs. Chop one onion, fry in two tablespoons 
iif 1 aitter five minutes, then add double the quantity of finely minced 
mushrooms and a grain of garlic, season, with one-half teaspoon of 
salt, one teaspoon of pepper, and tablespoon of chopped parsley. 
Cook ten minutes longer and then let it cool. Remove the grain of 
garlic. 

Fish Cooked with Oysters. Fillet four flounders and sprinkle 
>ver a few drops of lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, let 
them stand awhile. Melt three tablespoons of butter and dip the 
fish in. Lay in the center of the fish two large oysters, or a spoon- 
ful of California oysters. Fold the smaller end over the larger and 
skewer with small skewer. Dip in egg and bread crumbs and bake 
or fry, whichever is preferred. If baked put pieces of butter over the 
top. Serve with Sauce Piquante. 

Fish Baked with Oil and Tomatoes. Take fish of suitable size, 
prepare as before directed, put in a fish dish, cover with olive oil, 
then spread thickly with slices of tomatoes; bake till skin cracks. 
Serve with any sauce preferred, garnish with slices of raw tomatoes 
and sliced egg and parsley. 

Fish Chowder. Three pounds of sliced cod or haddock, two onions, 
six potatoes, one-half pound of salt pork, one-half teaspoon of pepper, 
two teaspoons of salt, four pilot crackers, one pint of milk. Slice 



30 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

potatoes, onions and pork. Fry out pork in kettle, add one-third of 
the sliced onion, fry brown. Have fish cut in small pieces, put a 
layer in the kettle, then one of onion and potato and seasoning, and so 
on until all is used; cover with boiling water; cook three quarters of an 
hour. Heat milk, thicken with two tablespoons of flour, one table- 
spoon of butter; when cooked pour into chowder. Cover pilot bread 
with cold water on dish in which chowder is to be served and set in 
warm place. Pour the chowder over the bread and serve. 

Fried Fish. Small white bate and sardines fry in a wire basket, 
in deep fat until brown, salt and pepper. The bones can be easily 
removed from sardines. Have the bones removed from smelts in 
market, wash and wipe dry, squeeze over a little lemon juice, dip 
in egg, then in bread crumbs, corn meal or flour; fry in hot salt pork 
or sweet oil. 

Stuffed Smelts. Clean and bone one-half dozen large smelts and 
season with salt, stuff with oyster forcemeat two-thirds full. Roll 
them in melted butter, then in fine bread crumbs. Bake them in a 
hot oven in a shallow pan for fifteen minutes, basting once with 
butter. Serve with mushroom sauce. 

Oyster Forcemeat. Chop fine one dozen large oysters, add one 
pint of stale bread crumbs, three tablespoons of butter, one teaspoon 
of salt, one-half teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon of minced parsley, 
a slight grating of nutmeg, one tablespoon of lemon juice, three 
tablespoons of oyster juice, yolks of two uncooked eggs. 

Fish a la Creme. Take any nice, firm fish from which the bones 
have been removed. Salt and pepper, squeeze over a little lemon 
juice, sprinkle with sweet herbs, let stand half an hour. Remove 
the stones from twelve olives; take one cup of stale bread crumbs 
and pour over them one tablespoon of melted butter; add the olives, 
season and stuff the fish, and sew. Roll up in a piece of cheese 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 31 

cloth and boil until nearly done. A fresh codfish weighing five 
pounds will cook in fifteen minutes. Place in a porcelain fish pan. 
Stir into a pint of stale bread crumbs two tablespoons of parsley 
and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the fish two inches deep 
with these crumbs, and strew thickly with bits of butter. Fill the 
pan two-thirds full of cream and bake in a hot oven until a golden 
In-own. Serve on the same dish, with a napkin rolled around it. 
Onion juice may be obtained by placing an onion in a lemon 
squeezer kept exclusively for this purpose. 

Shell Fish. Such shell fish as mussels, clams, oysters, etc., may 
be thoroughly scrubbed with a brush and put in the pot without 
water, with a clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley, and steamed 
until the shells open. Send to table in shells; eat with hot maitre 
d'hotel butter, or hot olive oil, seasoned, and lemon juice added. 

Pompano en Papillote. This delicious fish found only in Cali- 
fornia waters, is so rieli and tender, it needs no addition but season- 
ing. Cut white paper a little longer and wider than the fish. 
ilrease with butter, put in the fish, fold and turn over the ends. 
15 roil or saute. Season, sprinkle over a few drops of vinegar, and 
bake ten minutes in oblong paper boxes. 

Fish a la Russe. Fish weighing about four pounds, four eggs, 
two tablespoons of cheese, little nutmeg, one tablespoon of chopped 
parsley and seasoning, one pint of milk, two tablespoons of Parme- 
san cheese, one tablespoon of butter, two large tablespoons of flour, 
one tablespoon of anchovy sauce, one lemon. AVash fish, season, 
sprinkle with powdered sweet herbs, and juice of one-half lemon, let 
stand one-half hour. Fold in a piece of cheese cloth, place in boil- 
ing salted water, let boil from ten to fifteen minutes, then take it 
out carefully and let it get nearly cold. Have ready two hard boiled 
eggs chopped fine and the parsley. Put milk in double boiler, when 
hot add 1 uitter and flour for white sauce, which should be quite 



32 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

stiff; then add the yolks of the two remaining eggs, and the anchovy 
sauce and grated nutmeg. Put fish into the dish in which it is to 
be served, pour over it the sauce, sprinkle over the top the chopped 
eggs and the grated cheese, put in moderate oven and bake ten min- 
utes. Garnish with slices of lemon. 

Baked Fish. Clean, wipe and dry, rub with salt, fill with stuff- 
ing, sew edges together. Put narrow strips of fat salt pork over the 
fish and in pan under fish. Place fish upright in pan, curl by put- 
ting a skewer through tail, body and head, shaped like an S, tie 
with a string. Serve with celery or any sauce preferred. 

Dry Stuffing for Fish. One and one-half cups of stale bread 
crumbs, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, one 
teaspoon each of chopped parsley, onion, cucumber pickles, olives 
and capers, and one tablespoon of butter. Melt the butter in a hot 
saucepan, fry the onions a golden brown; mix the other ingredients 
with the bread crumbs. Stir all together and stuff the fish. 

Fish Chowder. Have two pounds of any white fish cut in thin 
slices. Slice six potatoes and four onions. Put in a kettle six 
slices of salt pork, fry brown. Put in a layer of potatoes, layer of 
fish, layer of onions, season, and so on till all is used. Cover with 
boiling water; cook till potatoes are done. Add a cup of cream. 
Have four pilot crackers, soaked in cold water, on a hot platter; 
pour over the chowder, or put them round the edges of the pot while 
the chowder is cooking. 

Clam Chowder. Is made as above, using the small clams, or 
chopping the large ones. 

Salmon Pudding. Mix one can of salmon, pouring off the 
liquor. Add juice of half a lemon, three tablespoons of melted but- 
ter, salt, pepper, a speck of cayenne, one-half cup of stale bread 
crumbs, three beaten eggs, half cup of cream. Put in a buttered 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 33 

mould, set in pan of hot water, cover; steam in oven one hour, 
filling with boiling water as it evaporates. Turn out; serve with 
any sauce preferred. 

Salt Fish Balls. One pint of chopped salt fish, one pint of cold 
chopped potatoes, one-half cup of milk, two tablespoons of butter, 
one-half teaspoon of white pepper, two eggs. Pick the bones from 
the fish, cover with boiling water, simmer one hour. If the fish is 
very salt pour off the first water and cover again with boiling water. 
(Eastern salt fish will cook much quicker than California salt fish.) 
Have fish and potatoes chopped fine, add the pepper and one beaten 
egg; heat the milk, melt the butter in it, add to the fish and pota- 
toes; if not soft enough add more milk. Make into small flat cakes 
an inch thick, beat the other egg, slightly dip the fish balls into the 
egg, and fry in deep fat, take out, drain on butcher's paper, send to 
table on hot napkin. Or fry in hot drippings or butter in a frying 
pan, turn and brown on both sides. 

Hash Salt Fish. Is prepared as above, omitting the egg. Fry 
two slices of salt pork in a frying pan, put in the hashed fish and 
potato, heat well, make into an oblong shape, brown and turn on a 
hot platter. 

Broiled Salt Fish. Pull off strips of salt fish, soak in water over 
night, dry in a cloth, broil. Cover with melted butter. 



EGGS 



Eggs a la Patti. Take stale bread, about half an inch thick, cut 
in large rounds with biscuit cutter, then cut out the center with a 
smaller cutter. Butter a baking-pan, lay in the rings, cover with 
milk or cream, let it soak until soft, pour off the milk and put a raw 
egg into the middle of each ring. Season ; put a teaspoon of butter 
on each egg. Bake in a hot oven until the whites are set. Serve 
on hot plates; garnish with watercress. 

Eggs a la Duchesse. Six eggs, four tablespoons of cheese, three 
tablespoons of butter, slices of thin toast. Spread butter on the dish 
in which they will be served, then lay in the cheese, cut thin. Sea- 
son, and add a little cayenne, then break the eggs in carefully, so as 
not to break; grate over them a little nutmeg, then two tablespoons 
of cheese. Bake ten minutes. 

Soft Boiled Eggs. Put the eggs into a saucepan ; cover with 
boiling water, and let them stand from six to ten minutes where the 
water will keep hot (180), but not boiling. If cooked in boiling 
water, cook from three to five minutes. 

Hard Boiled Eggs. Cook them forty minutes in water just bub- 
ling. The yolk of an egg cooked ten minutes in rapidly boiling 
water is tough and indigestible; cooked forty minutes it is dry, 
mealy and easily digested. 

Omelette. Two eggs, two tablespoons of milk, one saltspoon of 
salt, one saltspoon of pepper. Beat yolks of eggs until light colored 

34 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 35 

and thick; add milk, salt and pepper. Beat the whites until stiff 
and dry. Cut and fold them lightly into the yolks. When the 
spider is hot rub it around the edge with one teaspoon of butter on 
a broad knife; let the butter run all over the pan and turn in the 
omelette quickly, and spread it evenly in the pan. Cook carefully 
till slightly browned underneath. Turn over. Serve quickly. 

French Omelette. Beat four eggs till well broken, but not light, 
add two tablespoons of milk, one-half teaspoon of salt. Have your 
pan heated, put in one tablespoon of butter. Pour in egg mixture. 
Shake the pan until the whole mass is as thick as soft custard. Let 
it rest for five seconds; roll up. Before rolling up, if you wish add 
a few cooked oysters, or chopped cooked ham, parsley or cheese. 

Egg Nests on Toast. Six eggs, six small pieces of toast, one 
and one-half tablespoons of butter, one half teaspoon of salt. Sep- 
arate the eggs-, putting the whites in a bowl, and leaving the yolks 
in the half shells. Set the shells in a pan of meal to keep upright. 
Add salt to the whites and beat until stiff. Toast bread, dip edges 
into hot water, butter, and pile the white on each slice. Make a 
depression in the center of each mound, put one-quarter teaspoon of 
butter in each, drop yolks in the hollows. Place in hot oven until 
firm and slightly brown. 

Stuffed Eggs. Cut off the ends of hard-boiled eggs so that they 
will stand; then halve them and remove the yolks carefully; mash 
with a fork, add salt and pepper to taste, and a few drops of olive 
oil to moisten, and a little chopped parsley. To the yolks of three 
eggs use one teaspoon of vinegar. Fill the whites of the eggs with 
this paste. Set in a dish and pour around them cream sauce. For 
picnic put the eggs together and wrap in soft paper. 



MEATS 



How to Wash Meat. Have a piece of cheese-cloth, wash the 
meat with it, dipping in cold water. 

A Bad Habit. Some people have a habit of punching their 
fingers into a piece of beef to see if it is tender, which is useless and 
very annoying to the butcher, as it spoils the appearance of the 
piece. 

Veal and pork should be eaten soon after being killed, but beef or 
mutton is much improved by keeping it in a cool, dry place until it 
" ripens." The length of time required depends on the season and 
the weather; in summer from a week to ten days, in a nice chest, 
and in winter as long, perhaps, as fourteen days. 

Good beef should have a dark red color when first cut, changing 
to a brighter red or cherry color, after a few moments exposure to 
the air. This is probably due to the juices coming to the surface. A 
bluish, or dull dark red color indicates poor beef. It should look 
juicy, be smooth-grained and velvety to the touch, and somewhat 
firm and elastic. The bones and sinews should be comparatively 
small. The pale, moist muscle marks the young animal; a some- 
what darker color, older ones. 

Liquids take the form of vapor at the steam or boiling point. It 
is incorrect to say that meat is boiling, or rice is boiling, as solids 
cannot boil. Boiling, therefore, is cooking in boiling liquid. Water 
boils when the bubbles rise to the surface, and steam is thrown off 
at 212. If the fire is fierce, so that these bubbles are formed and 
expelled rapidly, and the water boils over, the water is no hotter; it 

36 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 37 

simply boils away, and has to be ofterier replenished. It is a waste 
of time, fuel and materials to keep water boiling at such a galloping 
rate. Water boils at a higher temperature when there is salt added. 
Fresh water boils at 212, salt water at 224. If we put salt in the 
water, in the lower part of a double boiler, a greater degree of heat 
is obtained by which to cook the articles on top. In cooking meat, 
fish or vegetables in water we must remember these two facts: Cold 
water draws out the albuminous juices; boiling water protects them. 
Meats are cooked in cold water to have all the nutriment in the 
water, such as beef tea, soups, etc., and meats are cooked in hot 
water to have part of the juices in the meat and part in the water, 
such as stews, fricasses, etc. Meats are cooked in boiling water to 
retain their juices. 

Braizing, Braizing is a form of stewing, done usually in a braiz- 
ing pan with coals, or any close covered granite pan will do. May 
be cooked in the oven or on top of stove. 

Roasting Meats. Meat must be wiped off with a wet cloth, then 
salted, peppered and dredged with flour; put into a meat pan, 
then in a hot oven; this will sear the outside and protect the juices. 
After ten minutes baste frequently; when necessary to turn, do not 
put a fork into the meat, as that allows the juices to escape. A little 
hot water may be put into the pan after half an hour to baste with. 
Time for roasting see rules. 

Gravy for Roast Meat. Remove meat, when cooked, to a hot 
platter; set in the oven. Pour from the pan nearly all the grease, 
add a little hot water, set on the stove, blend browned flour and 
water, stir into the gravy, and season to taste. Strain. 

Veal. The breast, loin and fillet (a thick piece from upper part 
of the leg) are the best pieces for roasting. Dredge with salt, pep- 



38 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

per, and flour, put strips of fat pork over the top. and bake accor- 
ding to directions. Cover with paper to keep from burning. Serve 
with horse-radish or tomato sauce. 

Cold Veal. Cut cold veal into slices, arrange tastefully on a dish 
and make a jelly as follows: Take bones that have been removed 
from fillet, with any scraps of veal that may be left from roast, etc., 
add a bouquet, a few pepper corns, a blade of mace, a few cloves; 
cover with water; cook till meat is in shreds, about seven hours; 
strain, cool. When cold this should be a firm jelly. Garnish the 
cold meat with the jelly cut in fancy shapes, with French cutter 
and slices of lemon. 

How to Dress Poultry. Cut off the legs at the first joint, cut out 
the oil bag at the end of the tail, cut off the head, put back the skin 
and take out the windpipe and crop, being careful not to break it. 
Make an incision below the breast-bone, insert the hand and remove 
all the inside of the fowl. The lungs lie between the ribs. Wash 
the fowl inside carefully with a cloth. With a sharp knife take out 
all the pin-feathers and singe over burning brown paper. Cut the 
gizzard through the thick part and remove the inner lining without 
breaking. Put the liver, gizzard and heart to one side. Always 
wash with a cloth. If too much water is used in washing poultry it 
will draw out the juices, and cause it to be tough and indigestible. 
These directions apply to all fowl. 

Roast Fowl. Prepare fowl according to directions. Stuff the 
crop till of a good shape, put the remainder into body of fowl and 
sew. Have the neck cut off, but not skin, then tie the loose skin 
with cord, put a skewer through the fleshy part of the legs, another 
through the wings, bring the cord towards the back, then over the 
skewers, cross string, bring back to the neck, then tie it tightly. 
This is trussing. (If you have not skewers, use strings.) Salt, 
pepper and dredge the fowl with flour; melt two tablespoons of 
butter and pour over, putting bits of butter under each thigh ; baste 



PROGRKSSIVK COOKERY 39 

often ; after a half hour add a little hot water to the pan. Cook in 
moderate oven at first and increase the heat. 

Gravy. Take giblets, heart and liver, put in boiling salted water, 
rook until tender. Remove and chop fine, add two tablespoons flour 
to the chopped giblets; remove fowl to hot platter set in the oven 
to keep hot, strain the gravy into a saucepan, add the chopped gib- 
lets and flour, reduce with hot water, cook five minutes. 

Stuffing. One pint of stale bread crumbs, moisten with one-half 
cup of melted butter, season highly with salt, pepper and sweet 
herbs; if you like, use less butter and a little sausage meat. 

Chestnut Stuffing. One good shalot, chopped fine, one pint or 
more of stale bread crumbs, one teaspoon of thyme, one teaspoon of 
chopped parsley, one-quarter of a pound of sausage meat, one tea- 
spoon of pepper, twenty-four cooked chestnuts, small, two teaspoons 
of chopped mushrooms. Take twelve of the chestnuts and pound 
well. Heat a tablespoon of butter, add shalot, sausage meat, mush- 
rooms, then the pounded chestnuts, season ; let it just come to a 
boil, add the bread, now the twelve whole chestnuts, being careful 
not to break. 

Game. Draw the wild fowl, wash quickly in cold water. Put 
two tablespoons of chopped onion and one cup of chopped celery 
(the green stalks will do), into the body of the fowl. Truss and 
dredge with salt, pepper and flour, roast in a hot oven, with a little 
water in the bottom of the pan. Baste often; cook to taste. Serve 
with bread sauce, currant jelly and boiled onions. 

Saddle of Venison, Larded. Procure a saddle of a small veni- 
son, weighing about five pounds, pare it neatly, remove the sinews 
from the surface and lard it with a larding needle as finely as pos- 
sible, tie it around three times. Put in a roasting pan one sliced 



40 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

onion, one sliced carrot; lay in the saddle, season with salt, spread 
one-half ounce of butter over it, put into a brisk oven and roast 
forty minutes, basting frequently with its own gravy. Untie, 
arrange neatly on a hot dish ; pour into the pan a glass of Madeira 
wine and a gill of white broth ; let come to a boil on stove, skim the 
fat off the gravy, strain over the saddle. Serve with hot currant 

jelly- 

Venison. Select young venison. If fresh let it hang in a dry, airy 
place several days before using. Wipe with a wet cloth, trim neat- 
ly, rub juice of lemon well into it, sprinkle with salt, lay in drip- 
ping pan, make a paste of flour and water, spread thickly over 
venison, put down to roast twenty minutes to the pound, put a little 
water in pan % moisten paste occasionally to keep from cracking. 
About one-half hour before serving remove the paste and baste every 
few minutes with butter and hot water until it froths all over. 
Then remove to a hot platter. The oven at first should be of mod- 
erate heat, increasing the heat the last half hour. Make gravy by 
pouring one and one-half cups of stock into the pan, thicken with 
browned flour, season, add two tablespoons of currant jelly. A 
bouquet laid in pan while roasting is an improvement. 

Broiled Venison Steaks. Rub into steaks, cut from the leg, a 
seasoning of salt, pepper, little grated nutmeg, one tablespoon of oil ; 
wrap in buttered paper and broil over a quick fire. They may also 
be larded with salt pork, then broiled with or without being envel- 
oped in paper. When dished serve with a maitre-d'hotel butter. 

Maitre-d' hotel Butter. One-quarter cup of butter, one-half tea- 
spoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of chopped 
parsley, one tablespoon of lemon juice. Rub the butter to a cream, 
add salt, pepper, parsley and lemon juice. Spread on hot steaks, etc. 

Broiling: Broil over clear coals. Heat your broiler, put on meat 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 41 

or fowl, turn quickly to prevent escape of juices. Meat should be 
broiled long enough to start the flow of the juices ; the meat will 
spring up instantly when pressed with a knife; when it ceases to do 
so the juices begin to evaporate and the meat shrinks. \Vhen 
cooked according to taste, remove to hot platter, sprinkle on both 
sides with pepper, salt and bits of butter. 

Sauteing or Pan-frying. Have pan sissing hot, grease with a 
little suet. Put on your meat, turn in one minute, sear the other 
side. Cook rare or well done as preferred ; salt, pepper and butter 
when taken up. Serve very hot. 

Beef Tea. Cut lean, juicy, raw beef into quarter-inch dice. 
Cover with cold water; add one-half teaspoon of salt to every cup of 
water. Press the meat often, and after an hour squeeze out all the 
juice. Heat the juice; stir it constantly, and serve as soon as it 
looks thick and is hot. 

Broiling in Paper. Take trimmed mutton chops and lay on 
doubled firm white paper, and cut the shape of the chops, allowing 
one inch for a margin. Open the paper, oil or grease them, place a 
chop inside each paper, salt and pepper them, fold over the edge. 
Broil, turning quickly and often, four or five minutes. Serve in 
the papers. 

Mutton Chops or Veal Cutlets Breaded. Trim, and season 
with salt and pepper. Dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again. Put 
butter in a hot frying-pan; put in the chops, turn quickly, and 
brown on both sides, then cook as preferred. Wind paper ruffles 
around the bones. Serve with tomato sauce. 

Fillet of Mutton Chops. Cut the meat from the bone, flatten 
the chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper; melt a tablespoon of butter, 
add to it a few drops of lemon juice, dip in the chops, roll up and 



42 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

skewer with tooth-picks; dip in bread crumbs, egg and bread crumbs 
again. Fry in boiling lard about four minutes. Serve with any 
sauce preferred. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton. Put into boiling salted water, enough 
to'nearly cover, with thickest part down; keep at boiling point ten 
minutes, then simmer. A small leg of mutton will cook rare in 
from one and a half to two hours; well done in three hours. Serve 
with caper sauce. 

Boiled Chicken. Stuff with oysters. Cook the same as boiled 
mutton. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton a la Francaise. Have the marrow 
removed from the bone of a leg of mutton. Put into the cavity a 
few cloves and garlic. Let stand for a week or so. Remove the 
garlic and boil as before directed. 

Boiled Ham. If very salt, soak overnight ; otherwise, soak two 
hours in cold water. Scrub well, trim off the black part, cover with 
boiling water. Simmer, allowing one-half hour for every pound. 
If ham is allowed to boil it hardens it. When cooked leave in the 
water till nearly cold; then remove, pull off the skin, put into the 
oven for one hour, baste often with vinegar. Remove from oven. 
Cover with sugar and dried bread crumbs, return to the oven, and 
when a golden brown, dish. Or stick cloves into the ham in fancy 
shapes, then wet your finger, and deep into red pepper and make a 
round spot, and alternate with black pepper. If sent to the table 
hot, serve with brown sauce, flavored with one-half glass of cham- 
pagne, or currant jelly, or juice of one-half lemon. A very nice way 
is to cook a ham a little longer, and remove the bone carefully. For 
those who care for it, add a bottle of white wine or champagne while 
simmering. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 43 

Corned Beef. Cover with boiling water, simmer, allowing one- 
half hour to the pound; as scum rises, remove. If to be eaten cold 
add a few whole spices to the water while cooking. If a rib piece 
when the bones loosen, remove from the pot, take out the bones, 
cover and press with a weight. 

Boiled Chicken. Clean, stuff a chicken. Put in boiling water a 
teaspoon of salt, one-half a carrot, one onion, two stalks of celery, 
six pepper corns, a bay leaf, sprig of thyme and parsley, salt; add 
the chicken, simmer one hour or till tender. Serve with any sauce 
preferred. 

Hash a la Francaise. Have cooked beef chopped rather fine. 
Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, in hot stew pan (this is for 
one pint of chopped meat); add two chopped onions; when cooked 
add one tablespoon of flour, one-half glass of white wine, a cup of 
broth, a little table sauce, tomato or Worcestershire, salt and pepper, 
a grating of nutmeg; add the chopped meat, leave in fifteen min- 
utes to heat, but do not boil. Dish it, pour on a few drops of 
lemon juice or vinegar and serve. Garnish with points of toast. 

Veal cut in slices cooked by foregoing recipe is very nice. 

Hash. One cup of cooked meat chopped fine, two cups of hot 
mashed potatoes, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of 
pepper. Mix until smooth. Put two or three tablespoons of hot 
water into a spider. Melt one tablespoon of butter or drippings. 
Put in the hash and let it simmer slowly until the water is absorbed 
ami a brown crust is formed. Do not stir. Fold over, turn on a 
hot platter. 

Hashed Corned Beef. To one pint of chopped meat add one 
pint of cold chopped potatoes, a saltspoon of mustard, one tea- 
spoon of white pepper. Have in frying pan a tablespoon of hot 
drippings, put in the hash, add two tablespoons of hot water, a table- 



44 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

spoon of butter. More water may be added if needed, but not too 
much. Stir and heat well, form an oblong shape, brown on one 
side, run a knife under it to keep it from sticking to frying pan. 
Turn on a hot platter. If hashes are put in covered dishes it steams 
them and makes them soggy. If you have any vegetables left 
from a corned beef dinner chop them together, warm the same way 
as the corned beef hash, omitting the water, as the vegetables are 
generally moist enough. 

Drippings. Save any pieces of fat (except mutton fat) , cut into 
one-half inch cubes, put in a pan, in the oven, and cook slowly, 
until the scraps are a light brown. When slightly cooled strain and 
set it away. Always clarify and strain fat after being used for 
frying. 

Minced Meat on Toast. Remove the fat and gristle from the 
veal and chop fine. To one cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, a 
speck of pepper, one-half cup of thickened gravy. Heat in saucepan 
and pour over buttered toast. Serve hot. 

Cottage Pie. Chop cold meat very fine. Mash some potatoes. 
To every cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of 
pepper, a speck of nutmeg, one-half cup of gravy or stock, and a 
little finely chopped onion. Put the meat, when seasoned, in a 
baking dish, cover it with mashed potatoes, and bake a golden 
brown. 

Scalloped Mutton. Cut cold mutton into thin slices, removing 
all the fat and gristle. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bot- 
tom of a shallow baking dish, then a layer of mutton, then a 
layer of cooked macaroni, then gravy. Moisten one-third of a cup 
of crumbs in one tablespoon of melted butter, spread over the top, 
bake until a nice brown. Season each layer with salt and pepper. 

Brown Beef Stew. Order skirt of beef a few days before needed ; 
the skirt is tender and juicy; remove skin, and cut in slices. Heat 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 45 

one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add one chopped onion, one 
slice of carrot, one of turnip, few cloves and bouquet; add sliced 
meat and fry brown. Then add hot water, cook until tender, be 
careful not to cook too long, so as to retain the juices, season with 
salt and pepper, remove meat, strain gravy, return to fire and boil 
up. Brown one tablespoon of butter or drippings, add two table- 
spoons of browned flour, one tablespoon of sherry wine, one table- 
spoon of tomato catsup, a few drops of lemon juice. Put back meat, 
heat thoroughly; serve with macaroni, or dumplings, heaped around 
the edge of deep platter. 

Hamburg Steak. Two pounds of chopped beef or Hamburg 
steak, one-half cup of bread crumbs, one cup of milk, two eggs, two 
teaspoons of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, three slices of salt pork. 
Season the meat, then add the milk, beaten eggs, nearly all the bread 
crumbs, put into a buttered dish, shape and sprinkle with the 
crumbs, and lay on the slices of pork. Cover the dish and bake ten 
minutes; then remove the cover and bake fifteen minutes longer. 

Fried Liver. Have calf's liver sliced thin. Trim the tough skin 
from the edges. Soak in cold water five minutes, and wipe. Fry 
out salt pork, put in the slices of liver, salt and pepper and sprinkle 
with powdered sage. Cook three minutes and turn. Season as 
before. Turn often, cook from seven to ten minutes. Put into a 
hot dish and spread with butter. 

Broiled Liver. Prepare the liver as above, and broil. 

Liver au Lit. Clean the livers from two or three fowls and cut 
into several pieces; or you may use calf's liver cut into small slices. 
Put a layer of tomatoes in a dish, then the liver, then sliced onion, 
and tomatoes on the top. Season each layer with salt and pepper. 
Cover and bake slowly for about half an hour. 

Dumplings for Stews. Make dumplings for stews the same as 
baking powder biscuit, only a little softer. Drop from a wet table- 
spoon into the stew; boil twenty minutes. 



SAUCES 



Bechamel, or White Sauce. One cup of cream, one cup of white 
stock or one pint of cream, two tablespoons of butter, two heaping 
tablespoons of flour, season to taste. Heat cream over hot water. 
Put butter in hot granite saucepan, stir till it melts or bubbles, 
add dry flour, stir quickly with the ball of a spoon until well 
mixed, pour over a part of the cream, stir till it thickens, add the 
remaining stock or cream, put back into double boiler and cook five 
minutes. Should be smooth, if not, strain. This way of cooking 
butter gives a much better flavor than blending the flour and but- 
ter. If you cannot get cream use milk and an extra tablespoon of 
butter. If too thick add more stock or cream, if too thin, more 
flour. 

Drawn Butter (Plain.) Is made the same as cream sauce, 
using hot water instead of cream, and four tablespoons of butter. 
Richer drawn butter may be made by adding the yolks of two eggs. 

Hollandaise Sauce. May be made of milk, or cream, or stock, 
one-half cup of butter, yolks of three eggs, juice of one-half lemon, 
salt, a speck of cayenne, one cup of boiling stock, cream or milk. 
Rub butter to a cream, add yolks, then lemon juice and seasoning. 
Beat well about five minutes, add boiling liquid, beat rapidly and 
serve. Should be as thick as custard. 

Hollandaise Sauce. Melt over hot water a half cup of butter, 
add the beaten yolks of five eggs, beat well till thick. Season 

46 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 47 

with salt and cayenne and stir in gradually two tablespoons of 
lemon juice and one-half cup of boiling water. If the butter more 
than melts it will curdle. 

Egg Sauce. Make cream or milk or drawn butter sauce, and 
add three hard boiled eggs chopped. 

Cream Mushroom Sauce. Make a cream sauce. Take one 
tablespoon of the butter, add one cup of chopped mushrooms, cook 
ten minutes or till soft. Add to the cream or milk sauce. 

Oyster Sauce. Heat one pint of fresh oysters to the boiling 
point in their own liquor. Remove from fire, drain liquor into 
another pan. Beat to a cream one-third cup of butter, three table- 
spoons of flour, add to oyster juice one cup of milk, heat to boiling, 
stir in flour and butter. Cook fifteen minutes, season and add 
oysters, then one teaspoon of lemon juice. For boiled fish, turkey 
or chicken. 

Celery Sauce (for Boiled Fowl.) Cook one cup of white part of 
celery, cut fine, in enough water to cover; cook until tender, drain 
off water; if not one pint add water enough to make that quantity. 
Melt two tablespoons of butter, add two of flour, and stir in the 
hot liquor, cook, and add the cooked celery. Season. 

Sauce Robert. To one cup of brown sauce add one teaspoon of 
sugar, one of mustard, one of vinegar. 

Tomato Sauce. Melt one tablespoon of t butter, fry in it one 
tablespoon of chopped onion till yellow, add one tablespoon of flour, 
pour gradually over one cup of hot stock, add one-half cup of cooked 
strained tomato. Season. 

Brown Mushroom Sauce. To one cup of brown sauce add one 
cup of chopped mushrooms, first cooked in one tablespoon of butter. 



48 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Currant Jelly Sauce. Make brown sauce, add two-thirds of a 
cup of currant jelly. When melted, strain. Serve very hot. 

Madeira or Port Wine Sauce. One-half cup of port, one glass of 
melted currant jelly, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one pint of 
stock, two tablespoons of butter or drippings. Cook same as for 
brown sauce. 

Spanish Sauce. One pint of consomme, three tablespoons of 
gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, carrot 
and celery, lean ham, bay leaf, sprig of parsley, three cloves, bit of 
mace, salt and pepper. Soak gelatine in one-half cup of consomme 
until soft, cook butter and vegetables, pour together, don't burn, 
add flour, brown, stirring all the while, add the consomme, spices 
and herbs, stand back and simmer half an hour; add the soaked 
gelatine, cook again; strain. (If fat arises, skim off.) Serve with 
chops. 

Bread Sauce for Game. One cup of stale bread crumbs. Put in 
double boiler, with a large slice of onion, one teaspoon of salt, one- 
half of pepper, one pint of stock. Cook half an hour, take out 
onion, add one tablespoon of butter. Cook half an hour and serve. 
Have ready some coarse bread crumbs fried brown in hot butter. 
Spread on hot platter, lay on the game and sprinkle with more fried, 
crumbs. 

Piquante Sauce. Is made the same as a brown or white sauce, 
adding a teaspoon each of chopped olives, pickles and capers. A 
larger quantity may be used if desired. 

Anchovy and Shrimp Sauce. Make a cream or white sauce, 
color pink with anchovy sauce, and add one cup of shrimps. Let 
the shrimps stand in the hot sauce about five minutes to heat 
through. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKRY 49 

Brown Sauce. One pint of dark stock, two tablespoons of butter 
two heaping tablespoons of browned flour. Put the stock in a 
double boiler, season with salt and pepper. Put the butter into a 
rol<l saucepan, let it get brown, add the flour. Pour gradually over 
this part of the hot stock, turn all into the double boiler. Cook ten 
minutes; add a tablespoon of brandy or wine. If liked fry a chopped 
onion in the butter. 

Bechamel Yellow Sauce. Put three tablespoons of butter into a 
saucepan and heat to a cream; then add three level tablespoons of 
flour, and beat again. Then add ten peppercorns, small piece of 
mace, small slice of carrot, half an onion, and one pint of white 
stock. Tie together one bay leaf, two sprigs of parsley and one 
sjii -JL r of ih\ -me. Put this in the saucepan. Simmer twenty min- 
utes, then strain and put over the fire again. Add salt and pepper 
ti> taste, and half a cup of cream. Beat together the yolks of four 
ggs and half a cup of cold cream. Stir this mixture into the sauce, 
heat to the boiling point, cook two minutes longer, stirring all the 
time. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle. 

Spanish Sauce. One pint and one gill of consomme, three table- 
spoons of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, 
one of chopped carrot, one of chopped celery, one ounce of lean ham, 
one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two cloves, a bit of mace, salt and 
pepper. Soak the gelatine in one gill of consomme for an hour or 
more. Cook the butter and vegetables together for ten minutes, 
being careful not to let them burn, add the flour, and cook until 
brown, stirring all the while. Draw the saucepan back, and gradu- 
ally add the pint of consomme. Boil for three minutes, stirring all 
the while. Then add the herbs and spice, and let it stand where it 
will simmer for two minutes. Add the soaked gelatine, and cook 
five minutes longer. Skim the fat from the sauce, and strain. 

Bernaise Sauce. Put into a hot cup four tablespoons of butter, 



50 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

and stir until soft and creamy. Put the yolks of four eggs, one-half 
teaspoon of salt and one-fifth teaspoon of pepper into a small granite 
saucepan, and beat with a Dover beater until the eggs are light, 
then add the butter in three parts, beating each time until the 
mixture is smooth. Add one tablespoon of tarragon vinegar and 
beat again. Place the saucepan in another of boiling water, and 
cook for three minutes, beating constantly with an egg beater. Take 
from the fire, and add one teaspoon of chopped parsley and tarragon 
and one teaspoon of onion juice. The sauce must be used as soon a 
finished. This sauce should be garnished with potato croquettes. 



SAUCES WITH OILS 



Sauce Tartare. Put into a mortar one tablespoon of butter and 
one teaspoon of chopped parsley. Pound to a smooth paste, and 
rub through a small strainer. Then pound two tablespoons of 
capers and two tablespoons of chopped cucumber pickles to a paste, 
and rub through a strainer on to the parsley and butter. Keep this 
mixture cool. Put in a bowl the yolks of two eggs uncooked, one 
teaspoon of mustard, one-half teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of 
salt, a little cayenne. Beat until thick and ropy (from 3 to 5 minutes), 
add oil, a few drops at a time, until so thick that the beater turns 
with difficulty, then add a tablespoon at a time until a gill and a 
half has been used. When the mixture is thick begin to add vinegar 
(alternating with oil), a teaspoon at a time, until two tablespoons 
have been used, then add one teaspoon of onion juice and the 
strained mixture. This sauce must be thick and smooth. To insure 
this add oil very slowly at first. 

French Dressing. One tablespoon of vinegar, three tablespoons 
of oil, one saltspoon of pepper, one of salt. Mix well, take a small 
slice of bread, rub slightly with garlic, set in salad with which this 
dressing is to be served for an hour. Remove the bread, pour on 
the dressing. Garnish with beets or olives. 

Remoullde Sauce. One pint of oil, one tablespoon each of plain 
and tarragon vinegar. Work the yolks of two hard boiled eggs 
until smooth, then the yolk of one raw egg, one teaspoon of 
mustard, and beat with the Dover beater five minutes. Add the oil 

51 



52 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

one teaspoon at a time, beating three minutes between each spoon- 
ful. After adding five teaspoons in this manner, put in two or three 
at a time, and the vinegar as it thickens. When done add one-half 
teaspoon of salt, one-third teaspoon of white pepper, and one tea- 
spoon of chopped parsley. It should be very thick. 

Green Salad Dressing". Pound in a mortar a handful of 
thoroughly washed and wiped parsley, one bunch of chervil, one of 
chives, one small onion, one anchovy, a tablespoon of capers or 
olives. Take quarter of a cup of bread that has been thoroughly 
soaked squeezed dry pound to a paste and rub through a fine sieve. 
The bread must not be moist. Beat in well the yoke of one egg, 
then add slowly one-half cup of olive oil. If not green, color with 
extract of spinach. This is very nice with fish. 

Sauce et Garniture. Beat the yolk of one egg into a bowl, add 
one-half teaspoonful of mustard, mix well with a fork. Add slowly 
one cup of olive oil, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This 
mixture should be thick; then add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Chop fine one tablespoonful of cucumber pickles, one tablespoonful of 
capers, one tablespoonful of chives, one tablespoonful of tarragon 
and add to the sauce. 

Mayonnaise Dressing". One-half teaspoon of dry mustard, yolk 
of one egg, one pint of olive oil. Beat egg and mustard smooth, 
pour in a steady stream a tablespoon of oil at a time, beating con- 
stantly; beat three minutes between each spoonful, till one-half of 
oil is used. This should be very thick ; now add teaspoon of vinegar, 
one teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of onion juice, 
if liked; add gradually remainder of oil, then vinegar to taste; more 
salt may be needed. Time for making fifteen minutes. During hot 
weather in making oil dressings place dish in ice water. 

It is a very easy matter to keep a salad dressing on hand and it 
makes very many " cold bites " delicious, if retained in an agate 
vessel. 



!'IM,KKSSIYK COOKERY 53 

Boiled Dressing: Put one pint of vinegar and two teaspoons of 
salt on the stove to heat. Mix together one tablespoon of butter, 
two of dry mustard, and two of white sugar; add six tablespoons of 
cream and six eggs. When this is all well beaten, pour on the hot 
vinegar slowly and carefully, beating all the time. Then put it all 
on the stove and let it boil until it thickens like boiled custard. 
Thin it afterwards with more cream if you wish. Pour it into a 
bowl to cool and do not leave a spoon in it. Keep in a glass jar. 



54 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 



ENTREES 



Cheese Fondu. One cup stale bread crumbs, one egg, one cup 
of milk, butter size of an egg, one cup of grated cheese. Season the 
bread crumbs with one-quarter teaspoon of salt, same of pepper, one 
speck of cayenne, one saltspoon of mustard, then add melted but- 
ter, cheese, beaten egg and milk. Bake twenty minutes in small 
pudding dish -or in small dishes ten minutes. Serve immediately. 

Rice Croquettes. One cup of cold boiled rice, warmed in double 
boiler, with one teaspoon of milk or cream, one tablespoon of butter, 
one egg, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of white 
pepper, a little cayenne, one tablespoon of grated cheese. Cool, 
shape, roll in bread crumbs, dip in egg, roll again in bread crumbs. 
Fry in hot fat till brown. 

Chicken Croquettes. Chop cooked chicken rather fine, use one- 
half pint of canned or fresh mushrooms, one-third cup of cream, 
three tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one tablespoon of lemon 
juice, one teaspoon of onion juice, yolks of two eggs. Put the cream 
into a stewpan and let it heat slowly. Beat the flour and butter 
together, add the cream when it boils. Stir until smooth, then add 
the chopped chicken, to which has been added the onion, lemon 
juice and season, mushrooms (first cooking mushrooms half an hour 
in a tablespoon of the butter), stir well; now add the two well- 
beaten yolks, cook two minutes. Pour this on a platter, let it cool, 
shape into croquettes, roll in dry bread crumbs, then in egg and 
again in crumbs. Fry in a basket in deep fat three minutes. Take 
up, drain on butcher paper. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY )) 

Lobster Cutlets. One pint of lobster meat, or crawfish, chopped 
rather fine, one-half pint of cream or chicken broth, a tablespoon of 
Hour, three tablespoons of butter, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one 
quarter teaspoon of white pepper, a speck of cayenne, one level 
teaspoon of salt, four eggs. Mix salt and pepper with chopped fish. 
Put tlif cream or stock on to heat. Mix the flour and butter and 
stir into the hot cream, cook one minute, stirring all the time. Add 
the fish; stir well and cook for three minutes. Then add two eggs, 
\\ell beaten, stir quickly and take from the fire instantly; stir in 
the lemon juice, and spread the mixture on a platter to cool. When 
cold form in cutlet shape, then cover with l>eaten egg and crumbs. 
Stick one of the small claws into the small end of each cutlet. Fry 
two minutes, and drain, Serve with tartare sauce. 

Cutlets a In Maintenon. For six mutton cutlets use four table- 
spoons of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped onion, one generous 
tablespoon of butter, one of flour, three of stock, one teaspoon of 
minced parsley, one of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, three gills 
of Spanish sauce. Cook the butter and onion together for five min- 
utes: then add the mushrooms and seasoning and cook five minutes 
lontfrr. Add the flour and stir well; then add the stock and cook 
three minutes longer. Let the mixture cool. Have the cutlets cut 
from the ribs, one inch and a half thick. Trim as for French chops, 
with a sharp knife. Split the chops in two without separating them 
at the bone. Spread the cooked mixture inside, and press lightly 
together. Broil for eight minutes over clear coals. Serve very hot 
with Spanish sauce. 

Sweetbreads. When a plump, healthy calf is slaughtered which 
has l>een fed on the milk of the mother cow, there are found in the 
lower throat and near the heart two small lumps of flesh, weighing 
perhaps half a pound, termed " sweetbreads/' These, when properly 
rooked, are about the most delectable and nutritious morsels known 
to mankind in the line of animal food. They are the pancreatic 



56 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

glands, and their function in the animal economy is to assimilate 
the oily portions of the food. In the milk calf, therefore, the sweet- 
hread may be almost said to be composed of assimilated cream. In 
the older animal, or when the calf is turned out to grass, these 
glands either shrink away or become tough, so that they are no 
longer the same dainty article. Care must be taken in preparing. 

Larded Sweetbreads. Blanch the sweetbreads in cold water. 
remove the veins and skin. Then put in cold water again with one 
tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and let them remain half an 
hour. Remove from the water, dry on a cloth, sprinkle with salt 
and white pepper. Lard them with very narrow strips of salt pork 
with a larding needle; or lay narrow strips of salt pork or bacon 
over, the top. Bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot with brown 
sauce. 

Beefsteak and Sweetbreads. Prepare and cut sweetbreads in 
slices and broil and serve with broiled beefsteak. 

Sweetbreads a la Marengo. Put sweetbreads into cold water, 
remove brains, then squeeze over them a little lemon juice. Put 
them in boiling water; cook twenty minutes. Take them out and 
throw them into cold water to harden. Cut in small pieces. Put 
into the double boiler one cup of cream, salt, pepper and grating of 
nutmeg. Have a few tomatoes cooking. Take one tablespoon of 
butter, melt as before directed. Add a tablespoon of flour, then a 
little cream, and strain some of the tomatoes into this mixture, so 
as to make a light pink. Add the sweetbreads. Ornament with 
shredded olives. 

Brown Gravy and Sweetbreads. Prepare sweetbreads the same 
as for Sweetbreads a la Creme. If you have dark stock use that, but 
if not, prepare as follows: Two pounds of lean beef cut in small 
pieces and put into a crock in a slow oven, with a little salt and one 
tablespoon of cold water ; cook one hour, take out, add one-half cup 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 57 

of boiling water, strain into double boiler. Roux: Take one table- 
spoon of butter in cold pan, let it get brown but not burnt, add two 
tablespoons of browned flour, a few drops of onion and lemon juice, 
a little tomato catsup and Worcestershire sauce; season. Pour 
some of the gravy over this, then put all into the gravy and cook 
five minutes. Serve hot, with toasted bread. Have the sweetbreads 
browned and add to the gravy. Add a half cup of sherry or brandy 
if liked. 

Brains. Brains can be cooked by any recipe for sweetbreads. 
They require but ten minutes to boil. 

Lobster a la Ne\vburg. Divide one medium size lobster or craw- 
fish in half, remove the coral and creamy green fat and put one 
side. Cut the meat into small pieces, put into a saucepan four 
tablespoons of butter; when it creams add a half cup of Madeira or 
sherry, reduce to one-half. Put a cup of cream in a double boiler; 
when hot season with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour this gradually 
over the butter mixture and return to double boiler. Pound to a 
paste the coral and fat and stir into the sauce, add the yolks of three 
well-beaten egrs, add the lobster; heat through and serve. 

Pigeon or Quail au Deliee. Take a quarter of a pound of bacon, 
cut up in small pieces; one-half pound of veal liver cut in small 
pieces. Fry the bacon, add the liver, add a clove of garlic, a chalot, 
a bay leaf, half a chopped carrot, some of turnip, salt and pepper; 
stew till cooked. Pound all together with a few mushrooms. Pass 
through a wire sieve. Stuff two birds with this forcemeat. Put 
pieces of butter or lard on the breast and bake from eight to ten 
minutes, basting often. Add a cup of stock to the baking pan; 
thicken; put in two tablespoons of currant jelly. Season and serve. 

Aspee of Fillets of Chicken. Take a mold, set on ice and water. 
and fill to the depth of quarter of an inch with dissolved aspic jelly. 



58 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

When this is set cut in fancy shapes with French cutters hard-boiled 
eggs, truffles, pickles and cooked beet. Arrange them in patterns 
and carefully put another layer of jelly. Arrange fillets of chicken 
that have been cooked and cut in nice shapes, neatly all round; 
pour over more jelly, then pour over a thick mayonnaise. Fill up 
the mould; put away in ice chest to harden. 

Aspic Jelly. Reduce one quart of white or dark consomme to 
two-thirds of a quart. Pour some in a mould about one-quarter of 
an inch in depth ; place on ice and water until it jellies ; lay on some 
of the following cooked meats, free from bones (not allowing the 
pieces to touch the sides of the mould): chicken, game, tongue, or 
either of them. Cover with the remainder of consomme, so as to 
have the same thickness at the top as at the bottom. Place in a 
refrigerator until it jellies; then dip mold in warm water, turn on 
a dish. (Cold entree.) 



OYSTERS 

To prepare oysters for cooking pour over oysters water and take out 
one at a time, remove any bits of shell. Serious accidents have 
resulted from the presence of pieces of shells. Oyster juice is seldom 
used in cooking. 

Baked Oysters. Wash two dozen large oysters ; put them in bak- 
ing pan in the oven; bake till they open, keep in the shells. Add 
to the juice a little cayenne, lemon juice and butter. Serve very 
hot the oysters and sauce. 

Oysters a la Poulette. Put two tablespoons of butter in a hot 
saucepan; when hot add two tablespoons of chopped onion, one of 
carrot and parsley, bay leaf, sprig of thyme; simmer for ten 
minutes, add two tablespoons of flour; have one cup of light-colored 



PROOKKSS1YK COOKKKY ">'.) 

stock liot, pour gradually over, strain into double boiler. Season; 
add one cup of hot cream, stir well, when thick, add one pint of 
oysters, strain, squeeze over lemon juice, cook till plump and add to 

the sauce. 

Oyster en Coquille. Choose six large oysters; drain. Wash 
oyster shells. Now marinate the oysters with melted butter, 
chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Fill the shells, and cover with 
stale bread crumbs. Put bits of butter on top and brown in very 
hot oven, then put on each shell one slice of lemon. 

Fried Oysters. Drain the oysters, season them with salt and 
pepper, roll them in a few fine bread crumbs (one by one), dip each 
one in egg, roll again in crumbs. Let stand one hour. Boil in hot 
fat one minute. Serve in a hot napkin. 

Fancy Roast. Put one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add 
one-half saltspoon of white pepper, one teaspoon of salt, a few grains 
of cayenne and a tablespoon of tomato catsup. When hot add one 
pint of oysters and cook until plump and the edges curl. Serve on 
toast. 

Oysters en Beurre Noir. One pint of oysters, two tablespoons 
of butter, two of vinegar, a speck of cayenne pepper. Put butter in 
a rnlil saucepan and brown, l>e careful not to burn. Strain the 
oysters, cook until plump and the leaves curl, sprinkle with one-half 
teaspoon of salt, add to the brown butter into which the vinegar and 
pepper have l>een added. Fill Dresden fritters and serve hot. 

Oysters and Bacon. Wrap each oyster in a very thin piece of 
salt pork or bacon, and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Fry in a 
hot frying-pan until plump and the edges curl. If oysters are 
allowed to cook too long, and lose their plumpness, they become 
hard and indigestible. 



60 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Curried Oysters. Cook oysters until plump, or until the edges 
curl. Cook two tablespoons of chopped onion in one tablespoon of 
butter five minutes. Be careful not to burn. Mix one tablespoon 
of curry powder with two tablespoons of flour, and stir into the 
butter; add one pint of hot milk gradually, and stir as directed for 
white sauce. Add the oysters. 

Kidney Stew with Sweetbreads. One beef kidney, one onion, 
two tomatoes, a bouquet seasoning, one set of sweetbreads. Wash 
and then cut the kidney in small pieces, chop and fry the onion in 
two tablespoonfuls of butter till brown, then add the pieces of kidney 
and fry till slightly brown. Put this into a saucepan and cover with 
boiling water, simmer four hours or till tender. While cooking put 
in the bouquet tied in cheese cloth. If you like spices add to 
bouquet four cloves, s"ame of allspice, a blade of mace. In half an 
hour remove the bouquet, add sliced tomatoes. Season to taste. 
Clean sweetbreads, cook as directed; when cold cut them in small 
pieces, fry brown in butter, season and add to kidney stew with one 
finely chopped green pepper. One-half hour before serving ornament 
with French potatoes. Calves' brains may be substituted for 
sweetbreads. Sweetbreads may be omitted. If desired, just before 
serving add a small glass of champagne or white wine sweetened. 

Croustades of Rice. Wash two cups of rice, pour over the rice 
six cups of boiling broth, cook till tender, or about one-half hour, 
season with one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a table- 
spoon of butter and a tablespoon of grated cheese, one-fourth of a 
grated nutmeg. Spread in a buttered pan that is, one inch thick 
cover with greased paper, leave to cool with a weight on top. Cut 
in rounds with a large biscuit cutter, with a smaller cutter make a 
round in the center like patties (dip the cutter each time in warm 
water). Dip croustades in egg, then in bread crumbs; fry in deep 
fat five minutes; remove the center round, scoop out the center and 
fill with oysters a la poulette or anything preferred. Cover with the 
center round. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 61 

Baked Bell Peppers. Select bell peppers of uniform size, cut off 
the top, remove the seeds and stuff with oyster forcemeat, bake in a 
buttered pan one-half hour. 

Peppers a la Espagnol. Select bell peppers of uniform size, 
put them into boiling water, let stand for a while, when you can 
readily remove the skin. When cool cut off the large end, remove 
the center, fill with any entree preferred, and bake twenty minutes, 
basting frequently with melted butter. Serve with Spanish Sauce. 
After filling the peppers put on the covers again and sew them down. 

Poached Eggs and Mushrooms. Peel enough mushrooms to fill 
two cujis. after they are broken in small pieces, sprinkle over them 
a little salt and let them stand a few moments, this will remove any 
small bugs; put in a strainer and pour over a little water, shake well 
and put in a saucepan with a tablespoon of butter, cook slowly 
fifteen minutes or till soft. Poach six eggs, by dropping carefully 
into boiling salted water, remove with a skimmer and arrange round 
the edge of a platter and pile the mushrooms in the center. 

Croustades of Asparagus. Cut off the tops of rolls or biscuit. 
Scrape out the inside, set with the tops into the oven to crisp. Make 
a white sauce; put in the tops of two bunches of cooked asparagus. 
Fill the rolls with this; cover. Serve. 

Macaroni, Italian Style. Put into a saucepan one large spoonful 
of lard; when melted put in two pounds of beef (a piece of the 
round); when fried brown on one side, turn, and fry the same on 
the other. Put in one sliced onion, pepper, salt and other spices to 
suit. When this has cooked for about one-half hour put in one- 
quarter of a can of tomatoes, or an equal quantity of fresh; improved 
by adding Italian dried mushrooms. Boil slowly (if necessary add 
boiling water, or .broth sufficient to make about a pint of gravy) ; 
cook about two hours in all. Take one pound of Royal macaroni, 



62 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

or spaghetti, and put into a large kettle full of boiling water; cook 
for twenty minutes, seasoning with salt. Strain well when done. 
Spread the macaroni or spaghetti on a platter; pour over it the stew, 
and sprinkle with cheese, serve hot. 

Macaroni and Tomatoes. Cook one quart of tomatoes until quite 
dry. Cook macaroni until soft in salted water, drain it, grate one cup of 
cheese, melt two tablespoons of butter in a hot stew pan, add the 
grated cheese, and stir until ropy. Turn into the cooked tomatoes, 
season with a saltspoon of cayenne and add white pepper. Put 
the macaroni around a hot platter, pour tomatoes into the center. 
Serve very hot and quickly. Any food cooked with cheese must be 
served as soon as cooked. 

Macaroni. One-half cup of macaroni after being broken into 
inch pieces. Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes or till 
soft. Drain; pour cold water over it, and serve with hot white 
sauce, or tomato sauce. 

Baked Macaroni. Boil one pound of best macaroni or 
spaghetti, as stated, put in a bake pan, mix with some melted butter 
and grated cheese, sprinkle the top with cheese grated, add one cup 
of milk, bake until the top is brown. 

Notice Care should always be taken that the water in which the 
macaroni or spaghetti is cooked be boiling before the same is put in. 

Timballs of Salmon. One pound of salmon. Remove the skin, 
take out the bones, chop, and pound in a mortar with a cjove of 
garlic, a saltspoon of mustard, a speck of red pepper, saltspoon of 
white pepper, six canned mushrooms chopped fine. Press all 
through a wire sieve; add a cup of cream; if not add more season- 
ing if needed. Beat the whites stiff; add gradually to timbal mix- 
ture. Butter timbal moulds well and fill; cover with greased 
paper, put into the oven in a pan with hot water, cook fifteen min- 
utes, turn out and eerve with Hollandaise sauce. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 63 

Timhalls of Chicken. Chop a chicken breast, pound in a 
mortar; add the same quantity of bread soaked, squeezed; season 
with teaspoon of salt, one-half of pepper, saltspoon of nutmeg; press 
through a sieve, add the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Grease six 
timbal moulds, sprinkle with stale bread crumbs, fill, cook as above 
directed. Serve with Madeira sauce. 

Fillet of Chicken. A chicken breast has four fillets. Dip the 
fillets in two tablespoons of melted butter with a teaspoon of chopped 
parsley, season with salt and pepper. Roll in dried bread crumbs, 
then in egg. then in crumbs; fry in deep fat five minutes. Take up 
on butcher paper; serve with currant jelly. 

Gnllatin of Chicken. One-half pound of lean veal, one-half 
pound of sausage meat, one quart of bread crumbs, a bunch of pars- 
ley: season with a teaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of pepper 
and a little grated nutmeg, one shalot or small onion, one-fourth 
pound of bacon. Remove all the bones from an uncooked chicken, 
spread out the meat and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pound the 
uncooked veal in a mortar, with the parsley and half a teaspoon of 
powdered tliynie. and a grated shalot. When thoroughly pounded 
put into a bowl, add the sausage meat, bread crumbs, two eggs and 
a grating of nutmeg, the salt and pepper. Place the forcemeat over 
the chicken, lay over the forcemeat one-fourth of a pound of bacon, 
cut in thin slices. Add ten sliced mushrooms and four sliced hard- 
boiled eggs. Spread the gallatin in a cloth, roll tightly, and secure 
it will) a string. Place in a stock pot with any meat bones you 
may have, and chopped soup vegetables and spices. Cover with 
boiling water and let it simmer three hours. Remove from the pot, 
place between two boards, with a weight on the top. When cold 
take out of the cloth and trim the ends, then glaze it over with meat 
glax.e. or, if preferred, pour aspic jelly over this. It may be served 
whole, garnished with lemon, or cut in thin slices and laid on salad, 
(larnish with parsley and boiled beets. 



64 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Glaze. Reduce the stock in which the gallatin has been made to 
a glaze; that is, boil away until it is thick. 

Smothered Chicken. Prepare chicken as for roasting, and split 
down the back. Heat in frying-pan four tablespoons of butter, lay 
in the seasoned chicken, breast side down. Simmer slowly one hour 
and a half, or until tender. Turn over, and cover with cream and 
smother half an hour. Remove chicken to hot platter, season the 
cream, thicken with flour, cook five minutes, pour over the chicken 
and serve. Garnish with points of toast. Or lay chicken in baking 
pan, breast up, cover closely and bake until a delicate brown and 
very tender. Cover with cream and pieces of butter. Season, cover, 
and let it cook half an hour. 

Scalloped Chicken. One chicken (or one can of boned chicken), 
can of mushrooms, small blade of mace, a few shred of onions, one 
tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons of flour, one cup of fine bread 
crumbs. Cut up the chicken, put in a saucepan the butter, mace 
and onions. When the butter is hot add the chicken. Stir until a 
glaze is over it, then add sufficient water to stew. Cook until ten- 
der. Take out the meat, separate from the bones, chop slightly, 
season. To one cup of broth add one teacup of milk, two table- 
spoons of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and one egg. Butter a 
baking dish, sprinkle with bread crumbs, a layer of chicken, then a 
layer of mushrooms cooked in one tablespoon of butter ; moisten 
well with the gravy; continue until the dish is full, adding 
crumbs last. Scatter over all a few bits of butter. Put in the oven 
and bake one-half hour. 

Fricassee of Chicken. Cut chicken neatly at every joint in 
pieces for serving. Heat a large piece of butter in a frying-pan, add 
a slice of salt pork; when hot put in one slice of onion, one of carrot 
and a bouquet. Put in the chicken and fry slowly; when brown, 
season, pour over hot water and simmer until tender. Remove 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 65 

chicken, thicken the gravy, add one cup of cream, strain, return to 
btove, season ; put in the chicken and heat for about fifteen minutes. 
If liked, one-half cup of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, may 
be added. Arrange the body of chicken in center of dish, with 
wings on top, thighs below, drumsticks at the end of platter. Pour 
over some of the gravy ; put the remainder in sauce-boat. 

Frogs' Legs a la Cream. Cook six pair's of frogs legs fifteen min- 
utes in hot milk with a little salt. Put one pint of cream in double 
boiler. When hot add half teaspoon of salt, saltspoon of white 
pepper. Melt two tablespoons of butter in hot saucepan ; add two 
tablespoons of flour, pour gradually over a part of the cream. Stir 
all into double boiler; stir well; when thick add the frogs' legs. 

Devilled Crab. One crab, pull off the sand bag and the shaggy 
substance from the sides, being careful to save the fat which is on 
the bottom and the sides of the shell. Chop the meat fine, season 
with a speck of cayenne, salt and pepper, two tablespoons of melted 
butter, one tablespoon of sherry, one beaten egg, two tablespoons of 
cream, a grating of nutmeg, one saltspoon of mustard. If not soft 
enough add more cream. Fill a crab shell, or small shells that can 
be had for this purpose. Cover with bread crumbs, squeeze on a 
little lemon juice, put bits of butter on top, and brown in a quick 
oven. If the flavor of garlic or onion is desired, rub on the shells 
before putting in the mixture. Serve on a bed of parsley or water- 
cresses, with a slice of lemon on each shell. 

Quenelles. Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half 
fat, the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and 
press it through a sieve. Mix the yolks of two eggs with it and 
season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered 
cinnamon. Spread flour on the paste board, put a teaspoon of meat 
here and there, roll gently each part into small balls, using as little 
flour as possible. They may also be rolled an olive shape. Throw 
the balls into boiling broth or boiling water at the first boiling, boil 



66 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

five minutes and drain. As soon as cold they are ready for use. 
Quenelles are used for garnishing. They may be fried instead of 
boiled. 

Rissoles or Ceciles. One pound of meat chopped fine, have two 
tablespoons of stale bread crumbs, two tablespoons of suet chopped, 
one teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-half teaspoon of sweet herbs, 
salt and pepper, gill of stock, one tablespoon of flour. Mix meat, 
butter, bread crumbs and herbs, salt, one tablespoon of flour, add 
one gill of stock. Flour the board and turn mixture on it. Form 
into little balls, roll in egg and bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat. 

For a change make plain pie crust, adding a little baking powder. 
Roll out thin, cut in small squares, put each rissole in a square and 
cover; dip in egg and crumbs; fry three minutes. 

Shrimps. Make a sauce, the same as white sauce, using one pint 
of cream, and add one cup of shrimps ; heat ; if liked, add one-half 
cup of strained cooked tomatoes. 

Liles aux Emoules. Open two quarts of clams or mussels by 
setting on stove in kettle without water. Add one clove of garlic 
and a bunch of parsley, and steam until open. Remove shells and 
strain liquor. Add to the liquor one cup of white wine, thicken 
with two tablespoons of flour and one of butter. Cook in double 
boiler. Add the yolks of two eggs, one cup of cream, the mussels 
and one cup of shrimps ; heat, skim out the mussels and shrimps, 
place on hot dish, and pour over the sauce. Garnish with points of 
toast. 

Creme Fr/te. Boil one pint of milk with one stick of cinnamon. 
Beat one-half cup of sugar, two tablespoons of corn starch and one 
of flour, with the yolks of three eggs, one-quarter cup of milk, one 
saltspoon of salt. Add boiling milk to this mixture, and cook fif- 
teen minutes in double boiler ; add one teaspoon butter, one teaspoon 
vanilla. Put away to cool in buttered pan. When cool cut >in 
fancy shapes, dip in bread crumbs, then egg, then bread crumbs; 
fry in deep fat. Sprinkle with sugar if you choose. 



I'KOi-KKSSIVK COOKERY 67 

Barbecued Ham. Spread on slices of ham, cooked or uncooked, 
one teaspoon of mixed mustard, then add one teaspoon of vinegar; 
lay on hot saucepan, pour vinegar around, turn often. When cooked 
add a teaspoon of wine or vinegar. Serve hot. 

Honolulu Curry. A small cocoanut, one-quarter of an onion, a 
clove of garlic, inch of ginger, two tablespoons of curry powder, one 
quart of milk, four tablespoons of butter, four of flour, salt, pepper 
to taste. Grate cocoanut and ginger, onion, put into milk, with the 
curry powder; cook half an hour. Add butter and flour. Have 
cooked meat or fish cut in small pieces ; take half the curry mixture 
and heat the meat in it. Serve on a hot dish, with the rest of the 
mixture poured over it. 

Escalloped Calves' Brains. Soak two sets of calves' brains in 
warm water two bourn; free from skin and fibres, wash in cold 
water. Tie them loosely in muslin, put in saucepan, cover with 
boiling water, add one tablespoon of vinegar; boil gently ten min- 
utes, take from the water and put in cold water; when cold cut in 
small pieces. Heat one tablespoon of butter, add two table- 
spoons of flour; add one-half pint of hot milk to the cooked flour 
and butter; cook, add one-half teaspoon of onion juice, one-half tea- 
spoon of salt, a grain of pepper and one egg. Sprinkle on brains 
one-half tablespoon of salt and a speck of pepper. Have ready one 
pint of bread crumby. Alternate a layer of calves' brains and a 
layer of bread crumbs in a baking dish until full, and pour over the 
eauce. Bake twenty minutes. 

Calf's Head a la Turk. When the head is cooked remove the 
bones, put the head with skin down in baking pan, sprinkle with 
salt, pepper and mixed sweet herbs; cover with stale bread crumbs. 
Drop dabs of butter over it, put in quick oven and brown. Remove 
to a hot platter, garnish with the cooked tongue sliced and parsley. 
Serve with sauce piquante. Squeeze lemon juice over it before set- 
ting in oven. 



VEGETABLES 



See directions for cooking vegetables. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut into 
dice, season with salt and pepper. Fry one scant tablespoon of 
finely minced onion in one heaping tablespoon of butter until golden 
brown. Add potatoes and stir with a fork till they absorb the but- 
ter, being careful not to break the potatoes. Add one tablespoon of 
chopped parsley and one tablespoon of vinegar. 

Creamed Potatoes. Cut one pint cold potatoes into dice or 
thin slices, put them into a shallow pan, cover with milk, and cook 
until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk. Add one 
tablespoon butter, one-half tablespoon salt, a speck of pepper and a 
little chopped parsley. 

Potato Boats. Select potatoes of uniform size, bake one-half 
hour or until done, take from oven, cut lengthwise or through the 
center. Scoop out the ineide, squeeze through a potato-ricer. Heat 
half a cup of milk, two tablespoons of melted butter. Season the 
potatoes, add milk and butter and beat till light and creamy. Put 
back carefully into half skins, rounding neatly with a knife dipped 
in milk. Put in oven and brown quickly. 

Maitre cT Hotel Potatoes. Cut cold boiled potatoes into cubes 
and season. Make a cream or milk sauce, put potatoes into part of 
sauce, place in a greased baking dish, cover with the remainder of 

68 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 69 

sauce. Heat and brown slightly in a hot oven; sprinkle with 
chopped parsley and serve. Potatoes prepared in this way, using 
brown sauce instead, with a few drops of onion juice, are very good. 
Plain boiled potatoes may be pleasantly varied by adding a bay 
leaf when cooking. 

Escallope Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes, lay in cold water fifteen 
minutes. Put a layer of potatoes into a well greased baking dish, 
then sprinkle with salt and pepper and bits of butter, another layer 
of potatoes until two-thirds full, then pour in cold milk to nearly 
fill the dish. Put in the oven and cook covered one hour. They 
will be creamy if cooked in moderate oven. 

Potatoes au Gratin. Cut six cold boiled potatoes in dice. Melt 
two tablespoons of butter, add two tablespoons of flour, pour on one 
cup of hot stock and one cup of hot milk slowly. Add four heaping 
tablespoons of grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Put a 
layer of potato in a dish, then some sauce, and so on until all is used. 
Sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven. 

A Southern Dish. Cut cold baked sweet potatoes into quarter- 
inch slices, and put them In an earthen dish. Spread each layer 
with butter, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until hot and slightly 
browned. 

Scalloped Potatoes. Six large potatoes, one-half pound salt 
pork, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper. Slice the pota- 
toes and soak in cold water twenty minutes. Cut the pork in thin 
slices and freshen in cold water. Put alternate layers of pork and 
potatoes in a baking dish and sprinkle with seasoning. The pork 
should be at the top and bottom of the dish. Cover the dish and 
bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Remove the cover 
and bake twenty minutes longer. 

Potatoes with Bacon. Eight potatoes, eight strips of bacon, 



70 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

one-half saltspoon of pepper. Wash and peel the potatoes, then 
with an apple-corer take a piece out of the potatoes from end to end, 
draw through the holes the strips of bacon well seasoned with pep- 
per. Bake in an earthen dish. 

Boiled Potatoes. Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash and 
scrub them. Pare and cover with cold water. Put them into a 
saucepan of boiling salted water. Cook- half an hour or until soft. 
Drain off every drop of water. Place the saucepan, uncovered, at 
the back of the stove to let the steam escape. Shake gently. Serve 
hot. 

Mint Sauce for Lamb. One cup of fresh mint, one-quarter cup 
of brown sugar, one-half cup of vinegar. Pick off the leaves, chop 
them, add the vinegar and sugar, if the vinegar is too strong add a 
little water or more sugar. Make about one-half hour before needed. 

Rice Potatoes. Boil potatoes, press them through a tin ricer into 
a hot dish. 

Mashed Potatoes. To one pint of hot boiled potatoes add one 
tablespoon of butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of pepper and 
enough hot milk to moisten. 

Mash in the saucepan in which they are boiled; beat with a fork 
till light and creamy. Turn out lightly on a hot dish. 

Potato Cakes. Make cold mashed potatoes into round cakes 
about one-half inch thick. Put into a baking tin and brush over 
with milk. Bake in a hot oven till a golden brown. 

Potato Souffle. Prepare mashed potatoes, adding a little celery, 
salt and chopped parsley ; beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth ; 
add a little salt. Turn into a baking dish, pile in a rocky form, 
bake ten minutes, until brown. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 71 

A very attractive dish is mashed sweet and white potatoes, served 
together; put first a strip of the white, the width of the dish, then 
one of the yellow, and so on, until the dish is full. 

Never smooth mashed potato. Pile it lightly up. 
Cook scalloped potatoes an hour in a hot oven in a pudding pan. 
Soak cauliflower one-half hour before cooking, head downward in 
salted water. 

Make potato salad of yesterday's and to-day's potatoes. 

French Potatoes in Brown Butter. Peel potatoes and lay in 
cold water, scoop into round balls with French cutter. Put them 
into boiling salted water, parboil them, remove with a skimmer, par- 
tially cool, brown in hot butter; add a little onion juice. These 
make a very pretty garnishing for stews and entrees. 

Saratoga Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes very thin, let lay in ice 
water one hour. Have the deep fat smoking hot. Heat wire frying 
basket, remove potatoes and dry quickly in cloth, put them into the 
frying basket a few at a time, plunge into boiling fat, fry a light 
brown. Put on brown paper to absorb the fat, and set in the oven 
to dry off a few moments. Heat fat again and fry remainder of the 
potatoes, spread on fresh brown paper and dry as before. The suc- 
cess of these potatoes depends altogether on the heat of the fat. 

Green Peas. Peas are fresh when the pods are green and crisp. 
The fresh pods are sweet and nutritious. Wash the pods before 
shelling. Put the peas in a colander. Pour over them a little cold 
water. Put the pods in boiling water, cook them ten minutes, take 
them out with a skimmer, add the peas, cook twenty minutes, or 
until tender. When half done add the salt. Put into a hot vege- 
table dish, allowing one tablespoon of butter to each quart of peas, 
or make a thin white sauce and add to the peas. To keep peas green 
cook with the cover off, or add a speck of soda. The French way of 



72 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

cooking peas is to add while boiling a bouquet or two or three leaves 
of mint. If peas are not sweet add a little sugar while cooking. 
For a change cut carrots in dice, cook and add to the peas. Serve 
in white sauce. 

String" Beans. Wash, break off the stem, and pull off the string 
at the side of each bean, break off the end, and string on the other 
side. Cut in inch pieces, or cut lengthwise in narrow strips. Boil 
the same as peas. Cook one hour. 

Asparagus. Wash, tie in bundles, cut off jagged ends. Put in a 
stewpan, throw over salt, cover with boiling water ; boil from twenty 
minutes to half an hour. Serve with white sauce, or mayonnaise 
dressing, or on buttered toast, covering ends with one tablespoon of 
melted butter ; or thicken the liquid the asparagus has been boiled in 
with flour and butter blended together, allowing one tablespoon of 
butter and one of flour to each large bunch. 

Succotash Green Corn. One pint of shelled beans, one pint of 
green corn, after it has been cut from the cob. Put the corn and cobs 
in boiling water, cook from ten to fifteen minutes. Cook lima beans 
one-half hour, add the corn, season with one teaspoon of salt and a 
saltspoon of pepper ; butter the size of an egg, one-half cup of cream. 
Green corn becomes tough if cooked too long. Cook corn on the cobs 
the same length of time. Serve in a napkin folded over the corn. 

Beets. Wash beets, put them in boiling water, boil from one to one 
and one-half hours. Throw them into cold water, and the dark, 
thick skin will rub off. Cut in slices, place in hot serving dish, put 
on pieces of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Or cut in slices, 
and when cold pour over vinegar. Add a little vinegar to cooked 
beets before putting over butter, if cared for. 

Carrots Turnips. Scrape carrots before boiling. Boil from one 
hour to two hours. Peel turnips, boil one hour, mash, add butter 
and salt and pepper. 



PROGKKHS1VK COOKERY 73 

Lettuce. Lettuce grown in hot-house should not be washed, hut 
that grown in the garden, on account of the grit, must be washed. 
Do not chop lettuce. 

Onions Baked. Remove outer skin, cut out hard part at one end, 
put into the hollow a piece of butter, some pepper and salt ; bake in 
a buttered pan from one to one and one-half hours. 

Boiled Onions. Cook one hour in boiling salted water. Put into 
hot dish, remove the hard part at end, put a piece of butter in each 
one, pepper and salt ; put on the hot cover and serve, or serve with 
white or brown sauce. 

Baked Tomatoes. Chop two tablespoons of lean ham, two mush- 
rooms, one small shalot, one tablespoon of parsley, one tablespoon of 
cheese, one teaspoon of bread crumbs ; season, mix with one egg. 
Remove a little of the center, and stuff the tomatoes ; stew with 
bread crumbs, add bits of butter, bake until brown. Serve with any 
sauce preferred. 

Baked Cauliflowers. Boil a small cauliflower in water enough 
to cover it with the flower part down until tender, having one tea- 
spoon of salt in the water. When the cauliflower is boiled suffic- 
iently put it in a baking dish and cover with cream sauce ; sprinkle 
with English dairy cheese grated ; bake until light brown. Be care- 
ful to have cauliflower whole. Cauliflower, cabbage and artichokes 
should lay in cold salted water before cooking. A piece of charcoal 
added to the water while cauliflower is cooking will prevent any odor. 

Spinach. Wash thoroughly, then each leaf, carefully. Then drain 
in a colander. Put on to cook without water, sprinkle with salt. 
Cover tightly and cook fifteen minutes, chop fine in tray, add one 
tablespoon of butter, a grating of nutmeg. Return to kettle and heat, 
take up with skimmer into a hot dish. Garnish with hard boiled 
eggs. 



,4 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Artichokes. Boil in salted water one-half hour, remove a few of 
the outer leaves ; serve hot, with mayonnaise dressing. 

Egg Plant. Cut the plant in slices one-third of an inch thick, 
with or without peeling, sprinkle salt over each slice, pile them, and 
cover with a weight to press out the juice. Drain and dip each slice, 
first in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, again in crumbs, and 
fry in hot fat. 

Mushrooms Stewed. Peel the top and stalk, break in small pieces, 
place them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, let them 
stand half an hour, until juice is drawn out. Add a tablespoon of 
butter ; cook until tender, add cream to cover, and when cream is 
hot serve on toast. 

Stewed Cucumbers. Pare the cucumbers, cut them into quarters, 
remove the seeds, soak in salted water one-half hour. Then put 
them in salted boiling water and cook until tender. Season with 
salt, pepper and butter and serve on toast. They will cook in half 
an hour. 

Fried Cucumbers. Pare good-sized cucumbers, lay in cold or ice 
water one-half hour. Then slice lengthwise one-quarter inch thick, 
sprinkle slices with salt, let stand fifteen minutes. Wipe, roll in 
flour, fry very brown in hot fat. Serve on hot napkin. 

Tomatoes. Fry sliced tomatoes in hot sweet oil. 
Cabbage. Try cabbage cooked same as cauliflower. 

Fried Bananas. Cut bananas lengthwise and fry brown in 
butter. 

Rice d la Carolina. To one cup of nice, well-washed rice, allow 
three cups of boiling water. Put rice in a stewpan, add the water, 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 75 

and one teaspoon of salt. Boil rapidly, occasionally stirring with a 
fork, when the water disappears cover the pot with a cloth and place 
at back of the stove, or where only heat enough will be obtained to 
slowly steam the rice. Boil without a lid. 

Boiled Rice. Three quarts of boiling water, two and one-half 
tablespoons of salt, one cup of rice. Have water boiling very fast ; 
put in the rice, and cook fifteen to twenty minutes without stirring. 
When soft drain off every particle of water and let it stand in the 
colander on the back of the stove till dry. 

Chicken Salad. One pint of cold boiled or roasted chicken, one- 
half pint of celery. Cut the chicken in small pieces. Wash and 
scrape the celery, cut in small pieces. Mix with a French 
dressing. Put away on ice. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix a 
part with the chicken. Pile the chicken on a dish, pour the rest of 
the dressing over it. Garnish the top with cold cooked beets cut in 
fancy shapes, the ends and sides with celery leaves. 

Tomato Salad. Take six small firm tomatoes. Put them into 
1 Killing water and remove the skins. Set away for an hour to get 
thoroughly cool. Then scoop out from the center of each tomato a 
piece the size of a hickory nut. Fill with mayonnaise dressing. Set 
each tomato on a lettuce leaf, adding more dressing. Serve individ- 
ually very cold. 

Potato Salad. Four boiled potatoes mashed and rubbed through 
a sieve. Mix one saltspoon of mustard, two teaspoons of salt, yolks 
of two hard boiled eggs, a few drops of onion juice, add slowly four 
teaspoons of oil, two tablespoons of vinegar and one tablespoon of 
anchovy sauce. Mix thoroughly with the potato. Garnish with 
parsley and serve very cold, or cut in dice and serve the same way. 

Lettuce Salad. When served as a salad, put the dressing on the 



76 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

whole leaves, curl, shell shape, serve individually or pile in salad 
dish, mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing, garnished with 
boiled beets cut in fancy shapes, or rings of whites of hard boiled 
eggs. 

Shrimp or Crab Salad. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix in 
the shrimps, spread over with the dressing and garnish with beets 
cut in fancy shapes. For crab salad remove the meat from a cooked 
crab, chop rather fine, season with salt, pepper and a speck of cay- 
enne pepper ; mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing the same as 
above. Or lay leaves of lettuce around the dish and fill with the 
fish or shrimps, mix and cover with the dressing and garnish with 
rings of eggs or beets cut in fancy shapes. 

Oyster Salad. One quart of oysters, one pint of celery, one-third 
cup of mayonnaise dressing, three tablespoons of vinegar, one table- 
spoon of oil, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, 
one tablespoon of lemon juice. Let the oysters come to a boil in 
their own liquor. Skim well, and drain. Season them with the oil, 
vinegar, pepper, salt and lemon juice. When cold put on the ice for 
two hours. Wash the whitest part of the celery, and cut in very 
thin slices. Put it in a bowl with a large lump of ice. At serving 
time, drain the celery, and mix with the oysters and half of the 
dressing. Pour the remainder over the top, and garnish with white 
celery leaves. 

Lobster Salad. Cut into cubes enough lobster to make a quart. 
Put it into a bowl, and mix with it three tablespoons of vinegar, 
one tablespoon of oil, one teaspoon of salt, and one-half teaspoon of 
pepper. Put on ice for an hour. Wash the heart leaves of four 
heads of lettuce, place in a dish and sprinkle with cracked ice. When 
ready to serve stir one-half pint of mayonnaise into the lobster. Shake 
ice and water from the lettuce ; form the leaves into shells with one 
tablespoon of lobster in each shell and one teaspoon of dressing 
on top of lobster. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 77 

Asparagus Salad. Take cold boiled asparagus, pile eight stalks ; 
plates as many as are needed and put a tablespoon of Remoullde 
sauce on each plate. 

Preserved Pears or Other Large Fruits. Wash, pare, quarter 
and core pears of uniform size ; throw them into cold water to pre- 
vent them from turning brown. Fill preserving jars neatly with the 
pears. Set them in a nicely scrubbed wash boiler with a rack on the 
bottom, add cold water to come up one-fourth of the jars. Make a 
syrup allowing one pint of granulated sugar to a quart of water, tie 
up in a piece of cheese cloth, six cloves, some of allspice, a small 
piece of cinnamon, a pinch of dried ginger ; put into the syrup, 
cook the syrup ten minutes, pour this syrup hot into the jars till 
they overflow. Put on the cover of the boiler and steam twenty 
minutes. Remove the jars, screw on the covers. When cold screw 
them again. A rack can be made of laths fitted together to form 
squares. 



CAKES 



DIRECTIONS FOR CAKE MAKING 

Read all recipes carefully before commencing, and then try and 
remember them, having your book before you to refer to. Have all 
materials measured before commencing to mix, the pan buttered, 
and the baking powder in the sifted flour. Beat the butter to a 
cream, add the sugar and beat again. Then add the beaten yolks of 
eggs (if there is milk in the cake put it into the bowl the eggs have 
been beaten in); add alternately the milk and flour; then the flav- 
oring. Stir in the center with the spoon held straight, occasionally 
stirring around the edges. When well stirred beat vigorously. 
Now add the well beaten whites, folding in over and over. Bake the 
cake as soon as mixed. For sponge cake beat the yolks ten minutes, 
add the sugar and beat again; then the flour, flavoring, etc., and 
lastly the beaten whites. 

Butter the tins, and for thick cake put in a strip of paper, allow- 
ing it to come an inch above the pan. This enables you to lift the 
cake out when baked. Or cut paper the size of the bottom of the 
pan and slightly grease again. The success of cake depends on the 
baking and mixing. To bake thick cake heat your oven, then partly 
close the dampers and add more coal. If too hot, leave the door 
open until the oven cools off a bit, then close. Put in your cake and 
cover with a pan the same size as the one your cake is in. Do not 
open the door for half an hour, if possible; should you open it be 
very careful to open gently. Thin cakes will bake in twenty to 
twenty -five minutes ; larger, in proportion to size. If necessary to 

78 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 79 

move cake do it very carefully, and not until it is set in the middle. 
When cake shrinks from the sides and does not stick to a wisp of 
broom when inserted into the center, it is baked. Do not take from 
the oven too quickly or the cake will fall. If the oven be too hot 
the cake will brown before rising. When it rises in the center, 
breaks open and stays up it is too stiff with flour. It should first 
rise around the edges, then in the middle. Mix cake in an earthen 
bowl, never in tin. Use the best materials, the finest granulated 
or powdered sugar. Eggs must be fresh and cold. When making 
cake it is best to use a Dover egg beater for beating the whites of 
eggs. For meringue and egg-nog beat with wire beater and beat on 
a platter with a long motion, slow at first, then quicker. Put a 
small pinch of salt on the platter before you commence to beat, for 
recipes where salt is called for, such as custards, etc. Yolks can be 
beaten to a froth in ten minutes. Eggs must not be allowed to 
stand after you commence to beat them, or they will return to liquid 
and will not again become light. Keep eggs in a cold place, and if 
soiled wash them before putting away. Never allow an egg beater 
to soak in water. Wash it by beating in the water. 

California flour is richer than Eastern flour, therefore, in cake 
making, use a little less butter than the recipes call for. What is 
called pastry flour in Eastern cook-books is the same as our best 
roller flour. California wheat is richer and more nutritious; there- 
fore, our roller flour is not quite so dry as Eastern pastry flour. 

Citron should not be floured. To keep citron from dropping to 
the bottom of cake put a layer of cake and then a layer of citron, 
until the materials are used up, the top layer being cake. This 
applies to deep cakes. Pick currants over carefully, wash and dry 
in a cloth ; set in moderate oven to dry thoroughly before putting in 
the jar. Stone raisins, put in jars and set away for use, so that in 
making cakes, etc., they may be in readiness. If you cannot have 
full control of the stove do not attempt to make cake. Stir with 
a wooden spoon. Currants and raisins must be floured before using, 



80 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

or they will drop to the bottom of cake. Beating cake, etc., beats in 
the air. If well beaten whites are added last beat cake, and then 
fold in the whites over and over, but do not stir. 

BAKING POWDERS 

Pure baking powders are soda and cream of tartar mixed in the 
proper proportions, combined with rice flour, corn starch, or some 
harmless ingredient to insure keeping. Cream of tartar is often 
mixed with a white earth that the unexperienced cannot detect. 
Soda being less expensive is not so much adulterated. Consequently 
the using of soda and cream of tartar is objectionable. Pure baking 
powder can be had. I get the best results from Dr. Price's Baking 
Powder. Ammonia in baking powder causes the big holes and dry 
cake and biscuit, instead of light, flaky cake and biscuit. 

Water Sponge Cake. One egg, one-half cup of sugar, one tea- 
spoon of lemon juice, three tablespoons of cold water, two-thirds cup 
of flour, one even teaspoon of baking powder. Beat the yolk, then 
add sugar and beat again, add the lemon juice and water, then the 
flour in which the baking powder has been mixed, lastly the white 
beaten stiff. Bake in shallow pans. Put jelly between the layers 
and ice with boiled icing. 

Sponge Cake. One cup of sugar, one cup of flour, three eggs, 
thre*e tablespoons of milk, two teaspoons of yeast powder. Mix as 
directed in Water Sponge Cake. 

Lady Fingers, or Sponge Drops. Beat the yolks of four eggs 
ten minutes, add one-half cup of powdered sugar, flavoring, beat in 
three-quarters of a cup of the best roller flour, put one-half saltspoon 
of salt in a dish and add the whites, beaten stiff and dry. Fold into 
the yolks and flour. Pour this mixture through a funnel made of 
white letter paper, press on buttered tins about three inches long, 
and less than one inch wide, or drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins, 
sprinkle over powdered sugar, and bake in a slow oven. Stick to- 
gether with white of egg. 



PROGUKSSIYK COOKERY 81 

Diamond Sponge Cakes. Any good cake will do for these, but 
sponge is preferable. Bake an inch thick in square tins. Cut dia- 
mond shape, frost with violet, green and pink and white; flavor 
with violet, pistachio, rose water and lemon. The effect is very 
pretty. 

Old Time Sponge Cake. The weight of twelve eggs in bar or 
powdered sugar. Weight of six eggs in flour, rind and juice of one 
lemon. Beat the yolks very light, add the sugar and flour altern- 
ately and slowly, stirring in the center and occasionally round the 
Bfl with a knife, then add the lemon juice and rind, last of all stir 
in the flour. All the stirring must be done slowly and gently. 
Hake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Prepare the fire 
and have the oven right heat and gradually increase the heat a little 
by opening dampers to stove. Bake in thick round tins with a 
tube. 

Baba au Rhum. One pint of flour, one cake of yeast, ten ounces 
of sugar, one pound of flour, four eggs, one-half pint of rum, four 
ounces of butter. Make a batter of the flour, yeast, adding a little 
salt. When light add the sugar, well beaten eggs and melted but- 
ter; beat well. Put in a deep round pan, with a tube to rise. Bake 
one hour. Heat the rum with two tablespoons of sugar, and pour 
slowly over the cake till all is absorbed. Mask with melted currant 
jelly. H,i vc chopped blanched pistachio nuts and almonds and orna- 
ment. 

Chocolate Cake. One and two-thirds cup of sugar, two-thirds 
of a cup of butter, two-thirds of a cup of milk, three eggs, two and 
two thirds cups of flour, two-thirds of a cup of grated chocolate, one 
teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half teaspoon of cloves, two teaspoons of 
baking-powder, one-half cup of blanched almonds. Cream the butter 
and sugar, add the beaten yolks, then the milk, chocolate and spices, 
and flour into which the baking-powder has been added, and lastly 



82 PROGRESS I YK COOKERY 

the beaten whites. Put into a deep pan, bake in a moderate oven. 
Bake one hour without disturbing, then try with a wisp of a broom ; 
if the wisp is dry, keep in a short time longer, them remove. Let it 
stand a time, turn on to a sieve, then put on a plate. Have almonds 
blanched, dried, not browned, and chopped a little. Cover with frost- 
ing into which the almonds have been added. A mottled cake can 
be made of the same cake mixture by putting the chocolate and 
spices in half the mixture adding one-third of a cup of chopped 
almonds. Bake as directed. This is a good recipe for layer cake, 
omitting chocolate, etc. 

Cup Cake. One cup of sugar, a piece of butter size of an egg, one- 
half cup of milk, two eggs, two cups of flour, flavor to taste, one 
teaspoon of baking powder. This will make twelve cakes, baked in 
gem pans. 

Citron Cake. Two and one-half cups of sugar, one scant cup of 
butter, five eggs, one cup of milk, four cups of flour, two teaspoons of 
baking powder, one and one-half pounds of citron. Cream butter, 
add sugar, cream again, add the well-beaten yolks and milk, flour, 
and baking powder ; lastly whites beaten stiff. Have citron finely 
cut ; butter and line a dish or pan, put in a layer of cake one inch 
thick, then a layer of citron, until cake material is used up. Bake in 
moderate over. Or omit citron, and add one-half a grated nutmeg. 

Quick Cake. Sift together one and one-half cups of flour and 
two teaspoons of baking powder. Add one cup of sugar ; beat three 
eggs and add it to one-half cup of milk, pour into the flour and sugar, 
stir well, last pour in two heaping tablespoons of melted butter and 
stir all well. Flavor to taste. 

Lemon Wafers. Two cups sugar, one cup of butter, two eggs, one- 
half teacup of sour milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, lemon essence and 
flour to roll very thin. 



83 

Ice Cream dike. One -half cii]iof butter, one and one-half cups 
of sugar. t\v> cups of flour, one-half cup of milk, white of five eggs, 
two level teaspoons of linking powder, one-half teaspoon of vanilla 
extract. Cream the hutter, add sugar gradually, then vanilla, milk, 
and the well-beaten whites ; lastly, stir in quickly and well the flour 
and baking powder sifted together. Put in four round, small haking 
pans and bake in moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes. When 
the cakes are cold, make a boiled icing, put part between the layers, 
and then spread the rest all over the cake. 

Porcupine Cake. Beat the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, 
and gradually beat in three-fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, 
after first sifting. Beat the yolks of three eggs very light, and add 
to the whites and sugar. Add one-half teaspoon of orange extract, 
and then stir one-half cup of flour (in which one-half teaspoon of 
cream tartar has been sifted), and mix quickly and well. Bake in a 
slow oven, in a pan with a tube. Filling : one-half cup of milk, 
one teaspoon of cornstarch, about one-half cup of sugar, and yolks 
of two eggs ; flavor with lemon. When the cake is baked fill the 
cavity, and cover with stiff frosting. Blanch a pound of almonds 
by pouring boiling water over them, let stand awhile, remove the 
skins, and when icing is nearly dry stick almonds in top and sides. 

Cocoanut Cake. Grate one cocoanut ; one-half cup of powdered 
sugar, one-quarter of a cup of butter, one-quarter of a cup of milk, 
one-quarter of a cup of corn starch, one-half a cup of flour, whites 
of two eggs, one-half teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-quarter tea- 
spoon of soda. Cream butter and sugar, add milk and soda, then 
flour, corn starch and soda (mixed), alternately with the beaten 
wliites. Bake in a round, deep pan thirty-five to forty minutes. 
Remove from the pan, and when nearly cold cut carefully around the 
edge, half way between the top and the bottom, break open, spread 
in the filling, put on the cake cover. Pour boiled icing over the top. 
Spread all over with a silver knife dipped in hot water. Throw over 
the rest of the grated cocoanut. 



84 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Filling for Cake. Yolks of two eggs, one cup of granulated sugar, 
rind and juice of one large lemon, one cup of grated cocoanut. Beat 
the eggs well, and mix with the other ingredients. Boil fifteen min- 
utes, then beat until creamy. Ice, and cover with grated cocoanut. 

White Cake. Two-thirds cup of butter, two cups of powdered 
sugar, one-half cup of milk, two and one-half cups of roller flour, 
two teaspoons of baking powder, whites of eight eggs, saltspoon of 
cream tartar, one teaspoon of peach extract. Rub the butter and 
sugar to a cream. Mix the baking powder with the flour, add milk 
and flour alternately, then the flavoring. Add to the whites the 
cream of tartar, beat stiff and dry, fold in carefully. Bake in a mod- 
erate oven is oblong tins. 

Wedding Cake. One pound of sugar, one pound of butter, one 
pound of flour, twelve eggs, one teaspoon each of cinnamon and all- 
spice and cloves, one-half teaspoon each of mace and nutmeg, two 
pounds of raisins, two pounds of currants, one pound of citron, one 
pound of almonds, one wineglass of brandy and one lemon. Line 
two deep, large tins with three thicknesses of paper, and butter the 
top paper ; blanch and chop almonds, seed the raisins, have currants 
well washed and dry, cut citron in smallj oblong slices, put layer of 
cake, add the citron till all is used ; currants and raisins mix w T ith 
flour enough to coat thoroughly. Add lemon juice and rind and 
brandy to creamed sugar and butter, then the beaten yolks, then 
beaten whites, and lastly the flour and fruit. Fill pan two-thirds 
full, as this cake does not rise much. Bake three hours in moderate 
oven. 

Pound Cake. Make pound cake the same as wedding cake, 
using ten eggs and omitting fruit and spices. 

Dorcas Cake. One-half cup butter, two cups of sugar creamed 
together. Whites of five eggs beaten stiff, two cups of flour, two tea- 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 85 

of baking powder, 1 cup of milk. For frosting use the yolks 
of eggs, stir in enough powdered sugar to make stiff. Add the juice 
and rind of one lemon. Bake in two layers ; spread frosting between 
and over the cake. 

Sunshine Cake. Ten eggs, taking only five yolks, twelve ounces 
of granulated sugar, six ounces of flour, sifted, five teaspoonfuls of 
orange juice, rind of half an orange, one teaspoonful of cream of tar- 
tar. Sift the flour and tartar together. Beat the whites of the eggs 
very light; add the sugar gradually, then cut the yolks with a broad 
Made knife into these. Add the flour last, cutting it also with a 
knife very lightly. Bake in round pans with a tube in the center. 
Line the bottom of pan and the funnel, heat the pan; turn in the 
cake. Bake forty minutes in a moderate oven. Miss Marion Davis, 

T' nr/,1 / i,f 



Measure, or Fourth Cake. One cup of butter, two of sugar, 
three of flour and four eggs, with a very little saleratus dissolved in 
four tablespoonfuls of milk, or two of milk and two of wine, and a 
little nutmeg. To have cake light and fine the eggs should be well 
beaten . yolks and whites separately, and stirred in lightly after hav- 
ing rubbed tbe butter and sugar to a cream. 

Princess or Angel Cake. Whites of eleven eggs, one and one- 
lialf cups of granulated sugar, one cup of flour, one teaspoon of cream 
of tartar, one-half teaspoon of almond or vanilla. Beat eggs to a 
froth; sift the sugar five times; sift the flour four times; then add 
the cream of tartar and sift again; beat the eggs and sugar together, 
add the flavoring, then the flour; stir quickly and lightly. Bake 
tbe same as Sunshine. 

Brandy Snap. One cup sugar, one cup flour, one-half cup 
molasses, one-half cup of butter, one teaspoon ginger. Mix same as 
cake. Drop on tins far apart. When a little cool try to turn them 
up with a knife; roll as soon as removed from pan. Keep in a tin 
tightly covered. 



86 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Rock Cake. One cup of butter, two cups flour, one-half large 
cup sugar, one teaspoon baking powder, two eggs beaten separately, 
one-half pound citron or currants. Warm the butter, and then add 
the flour and baking powder. Beat the yolks and add the sugar, 
then the beaten whites and turn into the flour mixture; lastly the 
fruit. Take up the mixture with a fork and drop on greased pans 
in rough little heaps half an inch apart. Bake ten minutes in a hot 
oven. 

Walnut Wafers. One cup of brown sugar, one cup of walnuts 
broken in small pieces, two eggs, a pinch of salt, three h eapi ng table- 
spoons of flour. Drop on buttered tins and bake in quick oven a 
few minutes. 

Gold Cake. One-half cup of butter, one and one-half cups of fine 
granulated sugar, yolks of four eggs, one whole egg, one-half cup of 
milk, one-half teaspoon of mace, two teaspoons of baking powder, 
two and one-half cups of flour. Mix in order given. 

Silver Cake. One-half cup of butter, one and one-half cups of 
sugar, one-half teaspoon of almond, one-half cup of milk, two tea- 
spoons of baking powder, two and one-half cups of flour, whites of 
five eggs. Mix in the order given, putting baking powder in flour, 
and adding milk and flour alternately. Bake in moderate oven 
until loaf shrinks from pan. Watermelon cake may be made from 
this recipe by using red sugar in the gold cake, and adding one cup 
of raisins seeded and rolled in flour. Put red cake in center of 
round pan and white around it, or the red at bottom and white on 
top. Bake in round pan. Another way: Bake gold and silver cake 
infancy tins; when cold break open, spread with -lemon butter. 
Frost. 

Coffee Cake. Make any cup cake, use strong, clear coffee instead 
of milk. Add spices and fruit to taste. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 87 

Molasses Ginger Bread. Add to two cups of New Orleans 
molasses a half teaspoon of soda, two teaspoons of ginger; melted 
butter the size of an egg. Beat well. To a cup of sour milk or 
cream add another half teaspoon of soda; pour into molasses mix- 
ture; add a beaten egg and two cups and one-half of sifted flour. 
I>e: it well, and bake in a long tin in a slow oven half an hour. 

Apple Cake. Make the cup cake with two eggs, add one cup of 

chopped a j >ples and one-half teaspoon of the extract of cinnamon. 

Venetian Cakes. One-quarter pound of butter, wash free from 
salt, beat to a cream, and add one-quarter pound of powdered sugar, 
yolks of three eggs, one cup of sliced almonds, five or six ounces of 
Hour. The paste should be like soft biscuit dough. Dip the hand 
into powdered sugar, break off pieces of dough, and roll into balls 
the size of hickory nuts. Bake in quick oven. Stick two cakes to- 
gether with any preferred frosting. 

Banana Cake. Bake any light cake in shallow pans as for cream 
or jelly cake. When ready to serve (not before), cover one cake 
with sliced bananas, sprinkle with powdered sugar and orange juice. 
Put on the other cake and cover in the same manner. 

Nut Cake. Add nuts to any of the cake recipes given except 
sponge. Chop any kind of nuts liked, mix them into the cake, put- 
ting whole ones over the frosting, or mix chopped nuts into frosting 
and put between layers. Ice the top with boiled icing. 

Molasses Ginger Cakes. One cup of molasses, one cup of sour 
milk, one tablespoon of ginger, one even teaspoon of soda, one-half 
cup of butter, flour enough to roll out. Put one-half of the soda in 
molasses and one-half in the milk; add to the molasses ginger and 
butter melted. imt />?, beat well and add the milk, then add flour, 
and roll out one-quarter of an inch thick. Cut with a biscuit cut- 
ter. Bake. 



8 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Orange, Lemon or Pineapple Cake. Any of the preceding 
white cakes, baked in layers, may be used for banana, orange, lemon 
or pineapple cake, frosting and ornamenting with the same. Ba- 
nanas should be sliced and sprinkled with sugar a short time before 
using. Spread the layer with frosting, then a layer of bananas, 
sliced; let stand awhile to harden, cover with a layer of frosting; 
let it harden again, and put on the other layer of cake. Frost and 
ornament with bananas. 

To Prepare Lemons, Oranges or Pineapples for Layer Cakes. 
Cut four lemons or oranges into thin slices, put them in a china or 
earthen bowl, cover with two quarts of cold water and soak over 
night. In the morning lift them carefully from the water, cover 
them with one-half pound of sugar and one-half pint of water, cook 
very slowly for three hours, then drain the slices, put them on a 
meat platter, dust with granulated sugar and stand aside to cool. 
This can be done a day or two before you wish to use them. 

Strawberry Short-Cake. One pint of flour, two teaspoons of 
baking powder, one egg, two-thirds of a cup of milk, one-third of a 
cup of butter, one-half a teaspoon of salt. Add the baking powder 
and salt to the flour. Beat the egg and add the milk to it. Make a 
hole in the flour and stir in the milk and egg. Melt the butter and 
stir into the dough. Spread into a round pan and bake. Remove 
from the oven, tear open, spread lightly with butter, pile sweet- 
ened strawberries over the top and garnish with whipped cream, or 
make a soft dough as directed for biscuit, and prepare as above. 

Dutch Apple Cake. One pint of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, 
two teaspoons of baking powder, one-quarter cup of butter, one egg, 
one scant cup of milk, four sour apples, two tablespoons of sugar. 
Mix the dry ingredients in the order given, rub in the butter, beat the 
egg and mix it with the milk and stir into the dry mixture. The 
dough should be soft enough to spread half an inch thick on a shal- 
low baking pan. Core, pare and cut four or five apples into eighths; 



PROGKKSSIVK rooKKKY S ( J 

lay tliem in parallel rows on top of the dough, the sharp edge down, 
and j tress enough to make the edge penetrate slightly. Sprinkle the 
sugar en the apple. Bake in a hot oven twenty or thirty minutes. 
To be eaten hot with butter as a tea cake, or with lemon sauce as a 
padding. 

Huckleberry Ctikc. Make the same as apple cake, substituting 
one pint of huckleberries sprinkled with flour to prevent their fall- 
ing to the bottom. 

Stilly Liinn. l~se the same recipe, omitting fruit. 

Cold Water Icing. One-half cup of water, mix in enough pow- 
dered sugar until it will drop from the spoon like a stiff batter. 
Flavor, spread on the top of the cake and place in a warm oven a 
few mini 

Boiled Icing. Boil two cups of granulated sugar and one-half 
cup of boiling water gently for ten minutes. When it spins into 
threads from a fork pour the syrup in a thin stream upon the well- 
beaten whites of two eggs, beating constantly until of right thickness. 
Add one-half teaspoon of vanilla. Do not stir while cooking. 

Frosting No. 1. White of one egg, one cup of powdered sugar, 
beat white of egg slightly, adding two teaspoons of lemon juice. Add 
sugar, hint a-, //; the longer it is beaten the better it will be. 

Old Time-Frosting No. 2. White of one egg, beaten stiff, add one 
and one-half cups of sifted powdered sugar, gradually. Beat again. 
This frosting will be very hard. Flavor. 

Chocolate Icing No. 1. Four tablespoons of grated sweet choc- 
olate, two tablespoons of brown sugar, one teaspoon of prepared gum 
Arabic, three teaspoons of milk: boil briskly ten minutes; do not 
stir alter it boils. Prepared gum Arabic can be had at a druggist's. 



90 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Chocolate Icing No. 2. Three grated bars of chocolate, two eggs, 
one teaspoon of corn starch, two-thirds of a cup of sugar. Put all 
together, set on the stove, and stir until thick. Spread all over 
cake. 

For chocolate deep cake chop two tablespoons of blanched almonds 
and add to the frosting. Frost or ice by pouring on the center of 
cake and spreading with a silver knife dipped in hot water. 

Chocolate Frosting. Whites of two eggs, two cups of powdered 
sugar, four bars of sweet chocolate, grated. 

Chocolate Frosting. One cup of granulated sugar, two bars 
of grated chocolate, one-fourth cup of water ; stir all over the fire to 
a thick, smooth paste. 

Cream Cakes. One cup hot water, one-half teaspoonful salt, one- 
half cup butter, one and one-half cups pastry flour, five eggs, yolks 
and whites beaten separately. Boil the water, salt and butter. 
When boiling add the dry flour, stir well for five minutes, and when 
cold, add the eggs. This is such a stiff mixture many find it easier 
to mix with the hand, and some prefer to add the eggs whole, one at 
a time. When well mixed drop in tablespoon fuls on a buttered bak- 
ing-pan, some distance apart. Bake twenty to thirty minutes, or till 
brown and well puffed. Split when cool, and fill with cream. 

Cream for Cream Cakes. One pint milk, boiled, three table- 
spoonfuls cornstarch, three eggs, well beaten, three-quarters cup 
sugar, one saltspoonful salt, or one teaspoonful butter. Wet the 
cornstarch in cold milk, and cook in the boiling milk ten minutes. 
Beat the eggs; add the sugar and the thickened milk. Cook in the 
double boiler five minutes. Add the salt or butter, and when cool, 
flavor with lemon, vanilla or almond. 



PUDDINGS 



Sno\v Balls. Three eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one scant cup of 
sifted flour, rind of one lemon, three tablespoons of water, two table- 
spoons of lemon juice, one and one-half tablespoons of baking pow- 
der. Beat sugar and yolks together until light, add water, lemon 
juice and rind, then beaten whites, and lastly flour and baking pow- 
der mixed. Stir quickly, and steam in buttered earthen cups 
three-quarters of an hour, or bake one-half hour. When done roll 
in powdered sugar. Serve with strawberry sauce. 

Chantilly Pudding. Five eggs, one cup of powdered sugar, one 
cup of flour, grated rind and juice of one orange, one teaspoon of 
baking powder mixed in the flour. Beat yolks and sugar together 
until light. Add orange and grated rind, and beat five minutes 
longer. Beat whites of eggs stiff, stir lightly into the other ingredi- 
ents. Add floor, stirring lightly. Turn into a deep border mould, 
and bake in a moderate oven thirty-five minutes. When baked, let 
it partially cool in the mould, then turn out on a flat dish. Spread 
one-half pint of strawberry preserves in center of the cake. Frost 
the outside with pink frosting. Soak one-quarter package of gela- 
tine in one-half cup of cold water for two hours. Put a pint of 
cream in a pan placed in another containing ice water. Beat stiff. 
Sprinkle two tablespoons of wine and one-half cup of sugar over it. 
1'oiir one-half cup of boiling water on soaked gelatine, and stir until 
all is dissolved. Strain this liquid over the cream. Stir from the 
bottom of pan until mixture is so thick that it will hardly flow. 
Turn instantly into the center of cake. Put in refrigerator for at 
least an hour longer. Ornament with chopped blanched pistachio 
nuts. 

91 



92 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Vanilla Souffle. One and one-third cups of milk, two eggs, one- 
half teaspoon of vanilla, a pinch of salt, two tablespoons of flour, 
two tablespoons of sugar. Pour gradually one-half of the milk on 
the flour. Set the rest of the milk to boil in double boiler, add the 
flour mixture, cook two minutes. Take up, add the well-beaten 
yolks, beat well, then add the beaten whites. Bake in a buttered 
dish twenty minutes in a hot oven. Eat with fruit sauce. Serve 
immediately. 

Prune Souffle. Half pound of prunes boiled in a very little 
water. Remove the pit and chop very fine; beat whites of five eggs, 
add prunes and half a cup of powdered sugar, put all in buttered 
pan, and bake in moderate oven about twenty minutes or longer. 
AVhen cold, put in flat dish and put whipped cream around, flavored 
with a little wine or eat hot served with cream. 

Rum Omelette. Beat the yolks of two eggs till thick, add two 
tablespoons of milk. Have the whites beaten stiff, with a speck of 
salt; add to the yolks. Heat frying-pan, put in tablespoon of but- 
ter. Do not burn the butter. Put in the omelet; when it is set fold 
over. Put in hot platter, send to table, .pour over rum, and set 
it on fire. Serve with fruit sauce. 

Apple Snowballs. Boil or steam one cup and one-half of rice 
until tender. Peel and core six apples, steam or boil until soft, but 
not break. Wring cheese cloths (one-third of a yard square) out of 
cold water. Take heaping tablespoon of rice, place in center of 
cloth, flatten out with the ball of a spoon until you think it will 
cover the apple; place apple in center, take the corners of cloth in 
your right hand, and put the cloth containing rice and apple in your 
left. Press gently the rice until it covers the apple. Tie the corn- 
ers tightly, put in boiling water and boil ten minutes. The apples 
must not be too well cooked or they will not shape. Untie the ends, 
roll back a little, take two ends in each hand, turn carefully on to 
plate. Serve with lemon sauce. 



PROGKKSSIVK rooKKKY 93 

Plain Bread Pudding. Soak stale bread in skimmed milk until 
soft, press out the milk and beat the bread fine; add one tablespoon 
of molasses, one teaspoon of ginger, one-half nutmeg to each quart 
of bread. Sweeten to taste ^ chop rind of one orange and add, throw 
over a few currants. Put into a baking-dish holding one quart, 
strew with drippings or butter. Bake one-half hour slowly. Better 
cold than hot. 

English Plum Pudding. Eight eggs, one pound of flour, one ' 
pound of sugar, one ounce of suet, one pint of milk, half a grated 
nutmeg, one teaspoon of ground cloves, two teaspoons each oi cinna- 
mon and allspice, one pound of raisins, one pound of currants, half 
a pound of chopped citron. Flour the fruit before using. Wet a 
pudding-cloth in hot water, flour well, put in the pudding, tie 
loosely. Boil eight hours. 

Batter Pudding. One quart of milk, one pint of sifted flour, 
four eggs, one saltspoon of salt; beat the eggs, stir into the milk, 
and add very gradually into the flour, so that it will not become 
lumpy; add the salt; beat all well. Fill a well-greased pudding 
dish two-thirds full, and put into a pot half full of boiling water. It 
should come only half way up the pudding dieh. Boil one hour and 
a quarter. If the water boils away add more boiliiiif water. If the 
water /oy/> boiling, or the kettle is moved, the pudding will be 
heavy. 

Batter Pudding No. 2. Six eggs, six tablespoons of flour, one 
saltspoon of salt and one quart of milk. Follow the same directions 
as given in the previous recipe. 

Bird's Nest Pudding. Use the same recipe as for boiled batter 
1 Bidding. Peel and core six apples that will cook quickly; lay them 
in a baking-dish, and iill the cores with sugar and a little cinnamon; 
cover with the batter, and cook from one-half to three-quarters of an 
hour in a hot oven. Serve with sauce. 



94 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Bread Pudding. Cut the crust off a stale five-cent loaf of bread ; 
cut in thin slices; pour milk over the bread, and heat until the 
bread has soaked up the milk; stir in butter the size of an egg; let 
stand until cold ; grate in one-fourth of t a nutmeg; add half a tea- 
spoon of rose water, four well beaten eggs. Boil in a cloth which 
has been wet in hot water, and sprinkled Avith flour. Put in the 
pudding and tie loosely so as to allow space to swell. Or, fill a pud- 
ding mould two-thirds full, and boil one hour, as directed in batter 
pudding. 

Banana Pudding. Cut sponge cake in slices, and, in a glass 
dish, put alternately a layer of cake and a layer of bananas sliced. 
Make a soft custard, flavor with wine (Sherry, Port or Brandy), and 
pour over it. Beat the whites of the eggs, add a tablespoon of sugar, 
and heap over the whole. 

Apple Pot Pie. Six apples peeled and quartered, and one-half 
cup of sugar. Make a dough the same as for baking powder biscuit, 
using one quart and one pint of flour. Roll out one-half of the 
dough lengthwise; line a high stew-pan to within two inches of the 
bottom and two inches of the top. Pour in one and one-half cups of 
water, then the sugar and apples ; add the juice of one-half lemon 
and a little of the rind. Have the other half of the dough rolled the 
size of the top of the stew-pan, wet the edges and cover. The two 
inches at the top are to allow space for the dough to rise. Let it 
boil one hour. Cut the cover in fourths, remove, dish the apples 
into a platter, cut the side crust in pieces, lay round the apples, and 
cover with the top crust. 

German Pudding. One-half cup of sugar, two and one-half cups 
of flour, one cup milk, one-half cup of butter, three eggs, one teaspoon 
of baking powder. Beat sugar and butter to a cream, add yolks, 
then the stiffly beaten whites, then the milk and flour. Steam three- 
quarters of an hour. Serve with cream sauce. 



PfiOGBJSSBIVE rookKKY '.*.> 

Chiiinplnin Pudding. Butter well a small mould, sprinkle 
two tablespoons of sugar over butter, then spread a few raisins next 
slices of 1 tread with the crust removed, then raisins and bread alter- 
nately until the mould is nearly full. Make a custard mixture of 
one pint of milk, three eggs', one-half cup of sugar, flavor with lemon. 
Pour over the bread. Steam tnx'-half hour. Serve with hard sauce. 

Plain Suet Pudding. One pint of flour, one teaspoon of baking 
powder, one saltspoon of salt, two ounces of beef suet (four table- 
spoons when chopped), cold water to make a soft dough. Mix the 
Hour, baking powder and salt; add the chopped suet and mix it 
well. Add the cold water gradually to form a soft dough. Grease a 
mould or several cups, fill to within an inch of the top, and cover 
with greased paper. Put into a kettle of boiling water, enough to 
come half way up the mould. Cover the kettle and steam two hours 
and a half if in a mould, and one hour if in cups. Serve with sauce. 
A richer pudding may be made by adding a tablespoon more suet, 
one egg and one-half teaspoon each of spices and fruit, using milk 
instead of water. 

Roly Poly. Make a biscuit dough; roll out one-fourth of an inch 
thick: cover with two cups of stoned cherries, or any fruit preferred. 
Roll up like jelly rolled cake. Wring out a cloth in hot water, and 
dredge well with flour. Lay in the roll and fold over the cloth 
loosely, allowing room to rise, tie both ends, plunge into boiling 
water. Boil one hour and a half. Serve with molasses sauce. 

Ginger Suet Pudding. Add to the plain suet pudding one-fourth 
of a cup of molasses and one-fourth of a tablespoon of ground gin- 
ger. Serve with lemon sauce. 

Amber Pudding. One cup of bread crumbs, one-half cup of 
sugar, three tablespoons of melted butter, two eggs well beaten, four 
tablespoons of qrange marmalade. Stir all together. Boil in a 
mould one hour. Serve with snowdrift sauce. 



96 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Graham Flour Pudding: One-half cup of molasses, one-fourth 
cup of butter, two eggs, one-half cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of 
soda, one and one-half cups of graham flour sifted, one cup of stoned 
raisins, one teaspoon each of cinnamon and allspice, one-half tea 
spoon of cloves and one-half nutmeg. Melt the butter, add to the 
molasses, then the soda, and beat well. Add the beaten eggs and 
milk, then the other ingredients, lastly the raisins sprinkled with 
flour. Boil three hours. Serve with any sauce preferred. 

Yorkshire Pudding for Roast Beef. Two eggs, one cup of milk, 
one-half teaspoon of salt, two-thirds of a cup of flour. Beat the eggs 
creamy, add part of flour, then part of milk, gradually, till all is in; 
beat ten minutes with Dover beater. Pour off the fat from roast 
beef; add the pudding. Bake twenty minutes. 

Pineapple Pudding. Two cups sugar, one-half cup of butter, 
pineapple (chopped or grated), yolks of six eggs, five tablespoonsful 
of bread crumbs. Mix butter, sugar and eggs well together, add the 
pineapple (fresh or canned), then the bread crumbs and juice last. 
Bake half an hour in a quick oven. Remove. Have a meringue 
made of the whites, put over the pudding, put back in the oven and 
brown. Serve hot or cold. 

Boiled Apple Dumplings. Make baking powder biscuit. Roll 
out one-half inch thick, cut around the size of a saucer; have your 
apples peeled and cored, and the core filled with a teaspoon of su- 
gar, one clove, and a small piece of butter; place them in the center 
and pinch the edges over the top. Steam two hours, or tie loosely 
in pieces of cheese cloth and boil one hour. If the apples are soft 
such as greenings, the time will be less. Serve with a sauce. 



DESSERTS 



y ;il Jelly. Make :m orange or lemon jelly, using a tablespoon 
more of gelatine. Strain into a pitcher. Place a mould in a pan of 
ice and water. Pour in jelly half an inch deep; when hard, put in 
candied fruit in a fanciful design cherries cut in halves, and angel- 
ica t represent leaves. Fasten each piece in place with a few drops 
of the liquid jelly, and when hard, add jelly to cover the fruit. 
When this is hard place a small Japanese bowl on the jelly, and fill 
with ice. Pour the remainder of the jelly between the two moulds, 
adding it slowly, and dropping in fruit here and there, until the 
mould is full. When the jelly is all firm remove the ice from bowl 
and add /"/,->, not hot, water to the bowl, and take it out carefully, 
without breaking the wall of jelly. Fill the space with Bavarian 
Cream. Put away to harden. When needed set the mould in warm 
water for a second, and turn out. 

Bavarian Cream. One-quarter box of gelatine, one-quarter cup 
of cold water, one pint of cream, one-third cup of sugar, one teaspoon 
of vanilla. Soak gelatine in cold water until soft. Chill and whip 
< ream until you have three pints of the whip. Boil remainder of 
the cream, or if all is used, one cup of milk with the sugar. When 
boiling add the soaked gelatine, stir until dissolved. Strain into 
bowl, add vanilla or lemon. Place bowl in ice and water, stir, and 
when beginning to thicken, stir in lightly the whipped cream. 

Orange, Lemon or Wine Jelly. One box of gelatine, one quart 
of boiling water, one cup of sugar, two oranges, one lemon, a few 

97 



98 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

cloves, a piece of cinnamon. Cover gelatine with cold water; soak 
two hours, add cloves, cinnamon, the juice of oranges and one lemon, 
the rinds cut in small pieces, not grated. Pour over one quart of 
boiling water, gradually stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Add 
one cup of wine. For orange or lemon pour over one quart and one 
cup of boiling water. Strain through four thicknesses of cheese 
cloth laid over a strainer or sieve, put in a mould set to cool ; it 
should be amber color. Make the day before using, or let it stand 
in ice and water until firm. Serve with syllabub cream ; or cut in 
cubes makes a very pretty effect. Cut oranges in halves, remove 
the pulp, set in meal to keep in upright position, fill with partly 
cooled jelly, set away to harden. Cut in quarters and place around 
jelly when dished, or serve alone without cutting, or take off a small 
piece of the top of oranges, remove pulp and fill. 

Fruit Jelly. Soak one ounce of gelatine in water enough to cover, 
for one hour, or until soft. Pour over one cup of boiling water, stir 
until dissolved, and strain. Take one quart of fruit juice, add ;i 
drop or so of Price's fruit coloring to make of a bright color, and 
stir in the dissolved gelatine. Pour into a fancy mould. Put away 
in a cool place, or place in ice and water to jelly. Turn out when 
firm, and pile in the center and around the sides whipped cream. 
This is very nice. 

FRUIT JUICE 

To be used with Fruit Jelly. 

One box of strawberries or raspberries; hull the strawberries; 
mash them slightly, then heat and strain. To every cup of juice 
add three-quarters of a cup of granulated sugar; stir this well, and 
return to the stove and heat thoroughly. Do not boil, as it destroys 
color. Put away in jars, as before directed. 

Snow Pudding: One-half box of gelatine, one-quarter cup of 



ri;or;|{|->SIVK COOKKkY 99 

cold water, one cup of sugar, one cup of boiling water, juice of one 
lemon, whites of three eggs. Soak the gelatine in cold water one 
hour, then dissolve in boiling water, add sugar and lemon juice, stir 
until all is dissolved, strain into a large bowl and set in ice water to 
cool. Stir occasionally. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth; 
when the gelatine begins to thicken add beaten whites and beat all 
together until very light. When nearly stiff pour into a mould. Or 
beat until stiff enough to hold its shape, and pile lightly in a tall 
glass dish. Make a boiled custard of the yolks of the eggs, and 
serve with the pudding. 

Apple Sno\v. Three large, tart apples, three eggs, one-half cup 
of powdered sugar. Steam apples (cored and quartered, not pared), 
then rub through a sieve. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add 
sugar and beat again, add apple and beat until like snow. Serve 
with boiled custard. 

Ginger Apples. Make a syrup of four pounds of sugar and 
one pint of water. Chop four pounds of apples and one-fourth 
pound of green ginger root fine with three lemons. When the syrup 
boils add the apples and cook till clear; put into glasses or pots. 

Apple Dessert. Pare and weigh two pounds of green apples. 
Cut them in small pieces and drop them into a rich syrup made of 
one-quarter pound of sugar and one-half cup of water. As soon as 
the syrup begins to boil add the grated rind and juice of one large 
or two small lemons. Boil till the apples are a solid mass. Turn 
out into a wet mould and let get cold. Serve on a dish surrounded 
with boiled custard. Eat with cream. 

Baked Apples with Stale Bread. Peel and core apples with a 
fruit corer. Cut slices of stale bread (without crust) about one- 
quarter of an inch thick, the size of the apples, spread with butter, 
place in bake pan. set apple on each. Fill the hole in the applet 



100 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

with sugar, drop a piece of butter on each and set in a hot, but not 
quick, oven. When about half done fill the holes again with sugar 
and a pinch of cinnamon. Place butter on top as before, and finish 
the cooking; serve warm. When done they may be glazed with 
apple jelly and put back in oven for two minutes. 

Charlotte Russe. Take six round charlotte russe tins or large 
shallow cups. Line with lady fingers dipped in white of egg; should 
they be higher than the mould trim them off. Put a pint of cream 
in a bowl, set in pan containing broken ice and water; whip cream 
until stiff with a soft wire egg whisk, slowly at first, then increase 
in swiftness until it is a stiff froth, sweeten with four tablespoons of 
powdered sugar, one tablespoon of wine, or flavor to taste. Add the 
whites of two eggs beaten stiff; fold in carefully. Fill your moulds 
compactly; they must be cold. Let stand five minutes, turn out on 
six dessert plates, "ornament each with one macaroon and a few can- 
died cherries around the macaroon, and a rim of syllabub cream 
around the plates. Charlotte Russe can be made in one mould with 
the same filling. Line the mould with lady fingers ; ornament with 
French candies, or color a little of the syllabub cream and orna- 
ment. 

Charlotte Russe Filling \vith Gelatine. One-quarter of a box 
of gelatine, one pint of cream, one-quarter of a cup of cold water, 
two-thirds of a cup of powdered sugar, one tablespoon of vanilla, 
one tablespoon of wine, one-quarter of a cup of boiling water. Soak 
gelatine in cold water until soft. Chill the cream. AVhip cream, 
and skim off into a granite pan set in ice and water. Sift powdered 
sugar over the cream, and add vanilla and wine. Dissolve the gela- 
tine in boiling water, and strain through a fine strainer over whipped 
cream. Then stir (not beat) rapidly with the bowl of spoon resting 
on bottom. Turn the pan with left hand while stirring with the 
right. If it feels lumpy lift the pan from the ice and place in warm 
water to melt the gelatine. Stir until the gelatine is well mixed with 



PROGKKSSIVK COOKKKY 101 

the cream, and when nearly stiff enough to drop turn it into a mould. 
Set on ice, and when ready to serve turn out and garnish with jelly, 
or arrange as directed above. Tfii* jiUiixi may Deserved infancy 

paper cases. 

To Whip Cream Syllabub. Place a howl half filled with cream 
into a pan of broken ice and water. When very cold put a whip 
churn into cream and keep the cover in place with the left hand. 
Tip the churn slightly, that the cream may flow out at the bottom. 
\Vork the dasher with a short stroke up and a hard, pushing stroke 
down. When the froth appears stir it down once or twice, as the 
lirst bubbles are too large ; and when the bowl is full of the froth 
skim it off, pile on a sieve placed over a bowl. Take off the froth 
only, and do not take it off below the holes in the cylinder. All the 
(ream will not whip ; a little will be left in the bowl. One pint of 
cream will make three pints of whipped cream. 

To Whip Cream Stiff. Whip rich cream as above directed with- 
out removing froth. In a short time it will be stiff. Keep on ice 
until required. Cream taken from the milk that has been set over 
night is too fresh to whip. It must be put on ice for at least sis 
hours before whipping. 

Cream Whi/)s. One pint of rich cream, one cup of pale sherry, 
one lemon, grated rind and juice, half a cup of sugar. Mix in-order 
given. Add more sugar if desired. .Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
then whip it. take off the froth as it rises, and put on a hair sieve. 
Fill jelly glasses \\ith cream left; put froth on top. 

Aj>}>lc Charlotte. One-third of a box of gelatine, one-third of a 
cup of cold water, one-third of a cup of boiling water, one cup of 
sugar, juice of one lemon, one cup of cooked apple, whites of three 
eggs. Soak the gelatine in cold water ; pour over the boiling water. 
Add the sugar, lemon and apple : strain, stir in ice-water until stiff ; 



102 PROGRESSIVE COOKEKV 

add the well-beaten whites. Line a mould with lady fingers or 
sponge cake, pour in the mixture, and serve a boiled custard, made 
with yolks of the eggs, as a sauce. Whipped cream may be served 
if preferred. 

Make strawberry or raspberry the same as apple charlotte, simply 
straining the juice instead of cooking. 

Rich Ice Cream. One quart of cream whipped, one and one-half 
cups of sugar, and flavoring. Freeze. (Directions for freezing : 
Layer of ice and rock salt alternately until freezer is full and tin is 
covered. When the crank turns hard the cream is frozen ; if you 
wish to pack remove paddle, pack solidly in the same tin, turn off 
the water, and repack. Cover the freezer with a piece of old carpet.) 
Pack frozen cream in fancy tins or tin boxes ; if packed in paper 
boxes put them in tins to keep out the salt. If cream is served in 
glasses whipped syllabub cream piled on the top, tinted some delicate 
color, has a very pretty effect. 

Take strips of old muslin, grease on one side and put around the 
covers of mould before freezing, to keep out the salt. 

When cream is partly frozen, firm ripe strawberries or raspberries 
may be added. 

Serve sherbets, ice-creams, etc., on dishes that have been cooled in 
ice-chest. In packing ice-cream pack so that there are no air spaces 
through the cream. 

Ice Cream (Southern). One pint of milk, one pint of cream, 
one tablespoon of flour, one cup of sugar. Heat milk in double 
boiler, add sugar and a pinch of salt. Blend flour with a little milk 
perfectly smooth, add to hot milk ; stir well, and cook half an hour 
or more. Strain, put away in a cold place ; when cold remove scum, 
add one pint of whipped cream, flavor and freeze. This cream 
colored pink, and flavored with extract of rose, or green and flavored 
with pistachio, makes a pleasing variety. Freeze as above. 



PROGKK IVK COOKERY 103 

Banana Ice Cream. Make as for ice-cream, adding mashed 
strained bananas. 

Glace Meringue, Soak one tablespoon of gelatine in four table- 
spoons of cold water one hour. Pour over the soaked gelatine one- 
half cup of boiling water. Beat until smooth and cold. Then strain 
this into a quart of cream. Add one tablespoon of vanilla extract 
and one large cup of granulated sugar. Freeze. AVhen frozen (it 
will take about fifteen minutes), take out the beater and pack 
smoothly, being careful to have the top perfectly level. Set away 
for two hours. When ready, beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff 
froth, and gradually beat into this two tablespoons of powdered 
sugar. Turn the cream out on an earthen dish and cover every part 
with meringue. Brown in hot oven and serve immediately. If the 
dish is flat put a board under it to keep the heat from the bottom. 

Prombicre. One quart of milk, one pint of cream, six whole 
eggs, yolks of three eggs, one and one-half cups of sugar, four table- 
spoons each of preserved citron, green gages and pineapple cut fine. 
Make a boiled custard of the milk and cream, and when cold add the 
fruit, and freeze. 

Bombe Glace. Serve ice-cream and sherbet in paper boxes. Fill 
the boxes with two kinds of ice cream and sherbet alternately. After 
freezing pack the cases in a freezer. Serve on a fancy napkin on ice 

cream plates. 

Chocolate Mousse. Whip one quart of cream to a stiff froth 
with a syllabub churn, placing the bowl in a basin of ice and water. 
Dissolve one ounce of grated chocolate, add three tablespoons of pow- 
dered sugar, one tablespoon of boiling water. Stir over a hot fire 
until smooth, about one minute. Add six tablespoons of whipped 
cream : when cool add to dish of whipped cream ; now stir in 
gently one cup of powdered sugar. Tut in a mousse tin. In 
packing mou>s- have a layer of ice thin and a layer of salt 



104 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

thick. Paste a strip of greased muslin around the edge of the 
covers. Have the mousse well covered with salt and ice, then cover 
with a piece of carpet ; freeze four hours. Take out carefully, wipe 
off salt, remove cloth, turn quickly on a cold dish, cut in slices, serve 
on very cold plates. Mousse tins may be had at any first-class tin 
store. Serve all frozen puddings, etc., on dishes that have set a while 
in an ice-chest. 

Strawberry Mousse. Mash one quart of strawberries, press 
through a sieve, sweeten with powdered sugar ; stir on ice until very 
cold. Add one pint of thick cream beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into 
a mould. Freeze as above directed. 

Roman Punch. One quart of water, one and one-half cups of 
sugar, four oranges and one lemon, one-half cup of Jamaica rum. 
Dissolve sugar in water, grate the rind of one lemon and one orange ; 
squeeze out the juice of the oranges and lemon, add to the sugar and 
water and the Jamaica rum. (If you wish to color it pink use a 
little claret wine). Let it stand one hour, strain and freeze. 

Another Way. Use the same materials as in the other recipe- 
Make a syrup of the sugar and water by boiling together three min- 
utes, cool, add the other ingredients and the white of one egg beaten 
stiff. Freeze. Serve after entrees or fish. Other frozen punches 
are made the same way adding other liquors or wines. 

Pineapple Sherbet. Mix together one pint of pineapple juice, the 
juice of two lemons. Let this mixture stand for one hour, add one pint 
of water, one pint of sugar ; strain and freeze. Or the sugar and water 
may be boiled together for twenty minutes, the strained juice added 
when cold ; freeze. All ices are made this way. substituting any 
fruit desired, tea or coffee. 

Strawberry Sherbet. Is made the same as the above, using 
mashed strawberries strained in place of pineapple. 



PROGKKSSIYK C'OOKKKY 105 

Nesselrode Pudding. Boil one pint of shelled chestnuts until 
soft, take off black skin and pound in a mortar to a paste. Boil one 
pint of sugar, one pint of water. juice from pint can of pineapples 
twenty minutes : beat the yolks of ten eggs and stir into this syrup. 
Put saucepan in another of boiling water and beat until it thickens,take 
off, place in basin of cold water, l>eat for ten minutes. Mix chestnuts 
with one cup of cream, rub all through a sieve, add one-half pound 
of French candied fruit and the pineapple cut fine. Mix this with 
the cooked mixture, add one tablespoon of vanilla extract; four 
tablespoons of wine, one-half teaspoon of salt. Freeze, repack in 
mousse tin. (If you can buy almond paste, add to the cream mix- 
ture.) This is considered tin' fiirxt of frozen puddings. 



Salted Almonds. Blanch the almonds by pouring boiling water 
over them : let stand a moment, then throw them into cold water, 
and rub off the skins. To each cup of nuts allow one tablespoon of 
melted butter or olive oil. Stir the almonds well in it, let stand an 
hour, sprinkle with salt, allow one and one-half tablespoons of salt 
to each cup of nuts. 1'ut into a moderate oven, watch carefully, let 
them bake, stirring occasionally, until they turn a delicate brown : 
they should be crisp. Remove from oven, rub off all the salt. 

Salted Almonds No. 2. Blanch two cupe of almonds. Dissolve 
one-half cup of salt in one and one-half cups of water. Soak al- 
monds in this solution over night, wipe, put into a baking-pan, and 
brown amber color in moderate oven. They must be brittle. 
Almonds prepared in this way will keep longer than when cooked 
in oil or butter. If you wish them very salt put in more than a half 
cup of salt. 

Boiled Custard. One quart of milk, one cup of sugar, four eggs, 
pinch of salt. l>eat the eggs, have the milk hot in double boiler, to 
which sugar has been added, pour the hot milk over beaten eggs, 



106 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

return to double boiler, stir until thick. Have a bowl handy. As 
soon MS custard begins to thicken at bottom and sides turn quickly 
into a dish. Flavor with one-half teaspoon of any extract preferred 
or grated rind and juice of one-half lemon. 

Richer Custard. Yolks of six eggs: make as above directed. 
Beat whites to a stiff froth, add tablespoon of sifted sugar, and orna- 
ment the top of cold custard just before serving. 

Boiled Custard. One cup of milk, one egg, one tablespoon of 
sugar, one-half teaspoon of flavoring. Scald the milk, beat the egg 
to a froth, and add the sugar; pour into scalded milk and stir until 
it thickens. Pour at once into a cold bowl; add flavoring. Serve 
with rice. 

^Moonshine. This dessert combines a pretty appearance with pal- 
atable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat the 
whites of six eggs in a broad plate to a very stiff froth, then add 
gradually six tablespoons of powdered sugar (to make it thicker use 
more sugar up to a pint), beating for not less than thirty minutes, and 
then beat in about one heaping tablespoon of preserved peaches, cut 
in tiny bits and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, 
pour in each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with 
extract of vanilla, and on the cream place a liberal portion of the 
moonshine. This quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. 

Virginia Caramel Custard. Separate the whites and yolks of 
five eggs, beat the yolks with a quarter of a pound of sugar, add the 
well beaten whites, and mix well with a quart of milk. Flavor with 
rose or almond, and then pour into a buttered mould. Set immedi- 
ately into a pan of boiling hot water in a moderately hot oven. 
About half an hour will be required to set it firmly. When nicely 
browned and puffed up touch the middle with a knife blade; if it 
cuts as smooth as around the sides it is done. Take care not to 



1'KociKKssivK COOKERY 107 

overdo. Let custard stand until perfectly cold, turn out gently on 
a plate, and dust thickly with sugar, place in upper part of hot oven ; 
the sugar soon melts and browns. 

Tapioca Blanc Munge. One pint of milk, two-thirds of a cup of 
fioirl tapioca, one-half cup of sugar. Soak tapioca four hours; put 
milk in double boiler, add sugar and soaked tapioca, cook ten min- 
utes. Remove from fire, season, stir in whites of two eggs beaten 
stiff, with a speck of salt. Pour into a mould that has been wet in 
cold water; set away to get cold. Turn into a deep glass dish. 
Serve with cream. 

Tapioca Cream. Is made by any of the recipes for boiled cus- 
tard, adding one-fourth of a cup of soaked tapioca boiled in the milk, 
before adding eggs. In boiled custards if cornstarch is used fewer 
eggs will be required. 

Lemon Foam. Four eggs, juice two lemons, rind one-half lemon, 
four large tablespoons sugar, stir the sugar and yolks of eggs to- 
gether, put in double boiler, when stiff, remove. Stir in the whites. 
Serve in glasses. 

Siberian Cream. One-half package gelatine (Nelson's is the 
best); one quart of milk. Soak the gelatine in part of the milk; 
beat the yolks of three eggs with one teacup of sugar; heat the rest 
of the milk and pour over the soaked gelatine, then mix with the 
and sugar. Flavor with vanilla and sherry wine to taste; set 
on the stove and stir until it curdles on the spoon; beat the whites 
to a froth and pour over the hot mixture and stir them in slightly. 
Set away in a shallow pan. When cold cut in square blocks resem- 
bling ice. and serve. 

Ornngc \vith Claret Wine. Peel six firm oranges, cut them in 
slices, place a layer in a glass dish, put over each a teaspoon of sugar 



108 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

(or more, if preferred,), repeat the same until all is used. Cover 
with claret wine. Set away in a cool place three or four hours be- 
fore serving. 

Apples Cooked in Syrup. Take six apples of medium size, wash, 
peel and core; be careful not to break; grate rind of one lemon, and 
squeeze out juice. Have syrup made of one cup of sugar, two cups 
of water, put in the lemon rind and juice, and then the apples. 
Cook apples carefully, try with a wisp of a broom, and if perfectly 
cooked remove to dish; be careful not to break. If syrup is too thick 
reduce it and strain over apples, and set away to cool. Serve with 
cream. 

Apples Another Way. Take four or six apples, wash, peel, quar- 
ter and core; lay in an earthen pie plate, and sprinkle over each 
one tablespoon of sugar and one-half teaspoon of lemon juice; add 
one-half cup of water; baste and bake slowly until brown. 

Stewed Pie Plant. Make a syrup by boiling one cup of sugar 
with one cup and one-half of water. Cut two cups of pie plant 
without taking off the outer skin, in inch pieces, drop in boiling 
syrup; cook until soft but not broken. AVhen cold, serve. 



PUDDING SAUCES 



Brandy Sauce. Two eggs, two tablespoons of sugar, two table- 
spoons i if lirandy. Beat the yolks ten minutes, add sugar and 
lrandy. then well beaten whites. 

Madeira or Rum Sauce. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a 
saucepan : add one tablespoon of flour, stir until rather yellow, add 
gradually one pint of water, one cup of sugar and a few drops of 
caramel sugar; boil gently ten minutes. Stir in one-fourth cup of 
Madeira wine or rum. 

Caramel. Melt one cup of sugar in a saucepan, stir until it 
melts, and is of a dark brown in color. Add one cup of boiling 
water, boil ten minutes. When cold, bottle. This gives a rich, 
dark brown color to coffee, custards, etc. 

Cream Sauce. One egg, one-half cup of sugar, three tablespoons 
of milk, one-half teaspoon of vanilla. Beat yolks and sugar to- 
gether, add beaten whites, lastly the hot milk and vanilla. Serve 
soon as made. 

Lemon Sauce. Two cups of hot water, one cup sugar, three 
heaping teaspoons of cornstarch, grated rind and juice of one lemon, 
one tablespoon of butter. Mix the sugar and cornstarch thoroughly, 
add to the boiling water. Cook eight or ten minutes, stirring often; 
add the lemon rind and juice and the butter. Stir until the butter 
is melted, and serve at once. If the sauce becomes too thick add 
more hot water. One-half cup of juice of stewed strawberries, apri- 
cots or any fruit may be used instead of lemon. 

109 



110 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Whipped Strawberry Sauce. Whip one pint of cream to a stiff 
froth, and beat into this about one-half cup of preserved strawber- 
ries that have been rubbed through a fine sieve; or add one-half cup 
of strawberry juice. Sweeten with powdered sugar. 

Hard Sauce. One-quarter of a cup of butter, one cup of pow- 
dered sugar, one-half teaspoon of lemon or vanilla, or a little nut- 
meg, teaspoon of water. Hub butter to a cream, add sugar gradually, 
then the water, then flavor. Pack smoothly in a small dish, and 
stamp it with a butter mould. Grate over nutmeg. 

Molasses Sauce. Boil one cup of molasses, add the juice and 
grated rind of one lemon and one tablespoon of butter. 

Snowdrift Sauce. One-fourth cup of butter, one cup of sugar, 
one-half cup boiling water, two tablespoons of wine or brandy, 
whites of two eggs. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, then add 
the boiling water, then the brandy or wine, lastly the well beaten 
whites. 

If you wish a yellow sauce, cream the butter and sugar, then add 
the beaten yolks, and proceed as in above receipt. 



BREAD 



Hop Yeast. Boil a handful of hops in three pints of water ten 
minutes, strain and pour half of it gradually on nine tablespoons of 
flour, then add the remainder of the water. Add one-half cup of 
molasses or sugar, one teaspoon of salt. When cool add one cup of 
liquid yeast or one cake of condensed yeast. 

Hard Yeast. Take some yeast, make it thick with India meal. 
Cut out, dry in wind. Put away in bags. One cake will mix four 
quarts of flour. 

Potato Yeast. Three good sized potatoes, one cup of flour, one- 
fourth cup of sugar, two teaspoons of salt, one and a half quarts of 
boiling water. Peel and grate the potatoes, adding the flour, salt 
and sugar. Place on the stove, and stir constantly while pouring on 
the boiling water; the amount of water will depend somewhat n 
the quality of the potatoes and flour. When nearly cold add one 
cupful of old yeast or one yeast cake. 

\VciterBread. Two quarts of sifted flour, one teaspoon of salt, 
one teaspoon of sugar, one tablespoon of lard or butter, one-quarter 
of a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in one-half cup of water, a 
pint of warm water. Put flour in mixing-bowl (reserving one cup 
of flour to add at last, if needed). Rub the butter or shortening 
into the flour. Mix the yeast with the warm water. Pour this 
liquid mixture into the center of the flour, mixing well with a steel 
knife. Scrape the dry flour from the sides and bottom of the bowl, 
bringing the knife up through the dough. When thoroughly mixed 

111 



112 PIMKJKKSSIVE COOKKKY 

turn out on a floured bread board; knead half an hour, or till it is 
smooth and will not adhere to the board. Cover with a cloth and 
board, let rise to double its bulk, cut down, let rise again, divide 
into two parts, mould into loaves, let rise until it cracks on top. 
Bake in hot oven one hour. When baked put on wire dish or sieve, 
place where the air will circulate round, and thus carry off the gas 
which has been formed, now no longer needed. Never leave bread 
in a pan or on a pine table. 

Milk bread is made the same as water bread, using good milk in- 
stead of water. It is better for new beginners to make bread in the 
morning, then they can watch the rising carefully. 

Rye or graham bread make the same as water bread, omitting the 
shortening and using two-thirds rye, one-third flour; let rise with- 
out molding. 

Raised biscuit are made the same as milk bread, adding more but- 
ter or shortening; make into biscuit shape or oblong. Melt butter, 
and spread over the top, put in a rather warm place to rise. Bis- 
cuit should be allowed more time to rise than bread. Bake in a 
quick oven. Experience is the best teacher in bread making. There 
are many other ways of mixing bread. Make a batter first, and 
then stir in the flour, kneading afterward. Mashing a potato and 
adding to yeast mixture is good. 

Sticks. Take some milk bread dough, shape into ballrf about the 
size of a walnut. Roll out with the palm of the hand to about a 
foot long. Leave on the board to rise slowly. Put into moderate 
oven to dry. When the color of crackers, and about as brittle, 
take up. Eat with soup or coffee. 

Parker House Rolls. Boil one pint of milk; allow it to get 
nearly cold, dissolve half a cake of yeast in half cup of warm milk 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 113 

Put into a bowl two cups of gifted flour, add one tablespoon of sugar, 
one teas] MX >n of salt : rub in one tablespoon of butter, one of lard, 
add gradually the dissolved yeast, then the milk; put this batter to 
rise in a warm place; when risen add flour, knead and let rise 
again, cut down, put on a board, roll out lightly, spread over bits 
of butter, roll up, let rise again. Put on a board, roll out half an 
inch thick, cut with an oval cutter, fold the dough over, putting a 
piece of butter between each fold. Put into a biscuit pan, keep in a 
warm place. If kept in too warm a place the butter will melt. It 
must rise to double the original size. Bake in rather a hot oven 
twenty minutes. 

All of following recipes must be mixed and beaten well. 

Raised Brown Bread. One pint of yellow meal, one pint of rye 
meal, one-half cup of yeast, one-half cup of molasses, one-half tea- 
spoon of salt, one saltspoon of soda, one pint of warm water. Mix 
ir<ll rye, corn meal, salt, molasses, yeast and water together. If 
compressed yeast is used dissolve in warm water. Fill the baking- 
pan a little more than half full. Let it rise until full. Bake in a 
moderate oven four or five hours. Jn New England it is baked in a 
brick oven. 

Boiled Brown Bread. One and one-half cups of corn meal, the 

same of graham flour, one-third of a cup of molasses, three cups of 

warm water, one teaspoon of soda, two teaspoons of vinegar, one-half 

jioon of salt ; (add the soda to the molasses.) Fill a tin two-thirds 

full, boil in a kettle three hours, and then bake half an hour. 

Steamed Brown Bread. One cup of Indian meal, one cup of rye 
meal, one-half cup of white flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, two tea- 
spoons of baking powder, one-quarter of a cup of molasses, one and 
one-half cups of sweet milk. Mix well in order given, and steam in 
a buttered mould two and one-half hours. 



114 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Scalded Corn Cake. One-half cup fine white corn meal, one 
saltspoon of salt. Add gradually enough scalding hot milk to swell 
the meal and make a soft dough, a little stiffer than for griddle 
cakes. 

Drop a tablespoon in hot salt pork or beef drippings. The mixture 
should be just thick enough to stay in shape. Turn and brown 
both sides. They do not brown so well in beef drippings as in salt 
pork. 

Pop Overs. One cup of flour, one saltspoon of salt, one egg, one 
cup of milk. Mix salt and flour, add half the milk gradually. Add 
egg well beaten, with remainder of milk, then beat all vigorously. 
Bake in hot iron gem pans, well buttered, for twenty minutes. 

Maryland Biscuit. One quart of flour, one-quarter of a cup of 
lard, one teaspoon of salt, one cup of cold water. Mix the lard with 
the flour thoroughly, add salt and water. Lay the paste on a bread 
board slightly floured. Pound with a mallet, fold the dough over 
and fold and pound until the dough crackles and bubbles. Roll out 
and cut biscuit-shape; prick with a fork. Bake a delicate brown in 
a moderate oven. 

Graham Puffs. Beat the yolks of three eggs as light as possible, 
and add to them one pint of milk, one tablespoon of sugar, one tea- 
spoon of salt; mix one cup of sifted graham flour, one cup of white 
flour and two teaspoons of baking powder in a bowl. Add grad- 
ually the milk mixture. Beat smooth and light, and then add one 
tablespoon of melted butter, and beat again. Have the whites 
beaten, and fold in. Heat earthenware cups, butter them, and fill 
two-thirds full. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. 

Rye Muffins. One cup of sifted rye meal, one cup of white flour, 
one-fourth of a cup of sugar, one-fourth teaspoon of salt, two tea- 



PROGRESSIVE rOOKKRY 115 

spoons of baking powder, two eggs, two cups of milk. Mix the dry 
ingredients, the baking powder. Add the beaten egg to the milk, 
and stir gradually into the meal and flour mixture. Bake twenty- 
five minutes in hot iron gem pans. 

Raised Waffles. Dissolve in one pint of warm milk one-half a 
cake of yeast; add to one pint of flour. Mix over night. In the 
morning add half teaspoon salt, teaspoon of sugar, two tablespoons 
of melted butter, two eggs, beaten separately. Herve with lemon 
sauce. 

Lemon Sauce. Cook one cup of sugar with one-half cup of water 
till it thickens; add a tablespoon each of butter and lemon juice. 

Biscuit. One pint of flour, two-thirds cup of milk, one table- 
spoon of butter, one of lard, one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons 
of baking powder. Mix the dry ingredients, rub in the flour, then 
stir in the milk, mix as soft as can be handled, turn the dough out 
on a floured board, pat it down with a roller until half an inch thick. 
Cut round, and bake in a very hot oven ten minutes. If too rich 
leave out the lard or butter. 

Egg Biscuit. One pint of sifted flour, one tablespoon of butter, 
one of lard, one teaspoon of baking powder, one egg, one-half cup of 
milk, one teaspoon of sugar, one-half teaspoon of salt. Add the 
baking powder, sugar and salt to the flour; then rub in the butter. 
Beat the eggs thoroughly, and pour the milk over it. Make a hole 
in the flour, and pour in the milk and egg. Roll out quickly; cut 
in rounds. l>ake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. 

Hominy und Cornmeal Cakes. Two tablespoons of uncooked 
hominy, one-ball teaspoon of salt, one tablespoon of butter, one cup 
of boiling water, one scant cup of cornmeal, two tablespoons of 
sugar, one cup of boiling milk, two eggs, one heaping teaspoon of 
baking powder. Pour boiling water over hominy, add salt and but- 



116 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

ter. Add boiling milk and sugar to cornmeal. When cold add eggs 
beaten separately, then the baking powder. Bake in gem pans 
twenty minutes. 

Corn Cakes. One pint of boiling milk to one cup of Indian meal, 
a little salt and one egg. Bake quickly in gem pans. 

Fried Indian Cakes. One cup of Indian meal, one cup of rye 
meal, one tablespoon of molasses, a little salt, one-quarter spoonful 
of soda. Mix with cold water as thin as you can drop from a wet 
spoon into boiling lard. 

Sponge Corn Cake. One cup of meal, one-half cup of flour, 
one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder, one tea- 
spoon of melted butter, one tablespoon of sugar or molasses. Mix in 
order given ; two eggs, one and one-fourth cups of milk. Beat ; add 
eggs to the milk. Bake in sheets about half an hour and cut in 
squares. 

Southern Corn Cake. One cup of white cornmeal, two cups of 
cooked rice or hominy, three eggs, half a teaspoon of salt, and lump 
of butter the size of an egg. Pour enough hot milk over the rice or 
hominy to soften it, and stir until smooth. Pour boiling water over 
the meal and stir until the meal is swelled but not watery. Add 
butter and eggs. Beat eggs until light. Add to this the cooked rice 
or hominy. Beat the ingredients well with a wooden spoon. Add 
milk enough to make a stiff batter. Bake thirty-five minutes in a 
round pudding dish. Send to the table in the dish in which it is 
baked. If preferred add a tablespoon of sugar. 



PASTRY 



Puff Paste. One scant pound of butter and one pound of flour; 
wash the butter in ice water, dry, and put on ice to cool ; sift flour 
into a cold bowl ; pour ice water with juice of one-half of a lemon 
into flour, enough 'to make a stiff dough ; put your hands in ice water; 
pat out the butter into an oblong shape. Dredge marble or board 
with a littli' flour, put on the dough and dredge slightly ; roll from 
you gently, with a rolling pin, into a square about one-half of an 
inch thick : put butter in the center, fold over the sides so that they 
will lap, fold from the top toward you, roll out very carefully, fold 
again, set on ice twenty-five minutes, then roll out three times, fold- 
ing as before, keeping the rough ends toward you ; fold again, set on 
ice twenty-five minutes, then roll out three times, folding as before, 
keeping the rough ends toward you ; fold, set on ice twenty minutes, 
roll again three times ; keep in ice chest until next day. Do not 
press heavily with the roller ; (mix in cool place.) Puff paste is 
nicer rolled on marble ; it will keep for a week if desired, covered 
with a damp cloth. 

Rough Puff Paste. One pound of flour, two-thirds of a pound 
of butter, one-half of a teaspoon of baking powder. Sift the flour 
and baking powder into a cold bowl ; put in the butter, cutting it in 
with a knife ; mix very stiff with ice water. It will not harm if the 
pieces of butter are not all mixed. Sprinkle a little flour on the 
paste board, lay on the dough, and roll gently from you until the 
paste is about a quarter of an inch thick, if any bits of butter roll 
out, put them on again. Fold sides toward the middle, the upper 

117 



118 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

end toward you. Roll from you, and sideways ; do this three times 
and set in cool place to harden ; roll again three times, and set in cool 
place until ready to use. Dip your hands in cold water before hand- 
ling paste ; you may omit baking powder if the paste is to be kept. 
Paste must be kept cold. 

Short Pie Crust. One pint of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoon 
of salt. Mix in enough good, sweet lard until it can be pressed in 
the hand without breaking. Now mix very stiff with cold water ; 
roll out one-fourth of an inch thick, spread thickly with bits of butter, 
and dredge slightly with flour ; fold the sides toward the end toward 
you. Put in cold place one-half hour. If a richer paste is liked, roll < >ut 
again, drop more bits of butter over it, and set in cold place. 

Cheese Biscuits. Take puff or rough puff paste, roll out about 
one-fourth of an inch thick, spread with grated Parmesan cheese in 
which a little cayenne has been mixed ; fold as before directed. Roll 
out again one-fourth of an inch thick, and cut with a very small cutter. 
Bake in moderately hot oven a light brown ; when baked they should 
be an inch thick, which they will be if paste is properly made. Serve 
with soups or black coffee. 

Cheese Sticks. Are made in the same way as cheese biscuit, 
rolled thin and cut in narrow strips about a finger long, then laid 
crisscross, or made in little bundles, tied with one of the strips and 
baked a light brown. 

Cheese Sticks No. 2. Four tablespoons of flour, two or three 
tablespoons of grated cheese, a speck of cayenne, yolk of one egg, 
one tablespoon of ice water. Mix cheese and cayenne in the flour, 
beat the yolk, add ice water, and stir into the flour. Put away to 
cool, then roll out thin, and cut in strips like straws. Make circle of 
one of the straws as large as a dime, put in a bundle of straws about 
a finger long. Bake in a rather hot oven. 



PROGKKSSIVK (OOKKKY 119 

Patties. Are made of puff paste, rolled one-half inch thick. Cut 
witli a large round cutter, then cut half way through center with 
smaller cutter. Hake light brown in moderate oven ; they should 
puff three times their size. Remove center cover, take out the inside, 
fill, and put on cover. 

Vol au Vent. Roll puff paste one inch thick, cut a round the 
sixe desired, cut an inner round half way through the paste. Bake 
in moderately hot oven ; remove, lift the cover, take out some of the 
renter. Fill with any poulette mixture, or crab warmed in hot but- 
ter, etc. Return the cover and sejve hot. 

Tarts. Roll pastry rather thin. Cut part in rounds. With a 
sharp knife dipped in hot water cut paste in strips about one-half 
inch wide, wet the edge of the rounds and lay the strips around the 
outside three times, without cutting the strip. Bake in rather hot 
oven until puffed and of a light brown color. Fill the center when 
(Id with sweetmeats, or jelly, or lemon filling. 

Sliced Apple Pie. Take short crust, cut off a piece the size 
required for the bottom crust ; cover the bottom of tin plate with 
this, allowing an inch over ; roll out the upper crust ; have sour 
apples sliced thin, put a rim of apples around the rim of plate in 
regular order, then pile in the middle. Sprinkle with four table- 
spoons of white or brown sugar, juice and rind of one lemon, put one 
tablespoon of water in the center. (If preferred, grate over nutmeg 
or sprinkle with cinnamon.) Turn over the edge of crust, wet the 
rim slightly with cold water, put on the cover, press down carefully, 
trim, and bake until the pie will move on pie plate. 

Murlhorough Pie. One cup of stewed apples sifted, add while 
hot one tablespoon ( .f butter, cool, then add juice and rind of one 
lemon, one-half cup of sugar, yolks of three eggs, grate in a little 
nutmeg, add one and one-half cups of cream. Have//// pie plate 



120 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

with sides, cover with paste, putting two rims around the edge, add 
the mixture. Bake until firm in center. When baked and cool cover 
with meringue made from whites. 

Meringue. Beat the whites of three eggs in a platter on which a 
small pinch of salt has been put, beat with a whisk with a long 
motion, slowly at first then faster until stiff and flaky ; add one- 
half cup of sifted powdered sugar, sifting and cutting in lightly. 
Spread lightly over pie and put in a cool oven to set, and brown a 
little. Tin plates are best for pies. 

Mince Pie. Two pounds of the round of beef, eight pounds of 
chopped apples, four pounds of brown sugar, three pounds of 
suet, four pounds of raisins, four pounds of dried currants, two 
pounds of chopped citron, two tablespoons of candied orange peel 
and one of lemon, two Sicily lemons, one quart of brandy, 
one pint of cider ; two tablespoons of clove, four tablespoons of cin- 
namon and allspice, a teaspoon of ground mace, two grated nutmegs, 
one tablespoon of salt. Cook the meat, and chop fine. Mix in the 
spices, sugar and salt ; pour over half the brandy and part of the 
prepared fruit ; stir well, and put away until the next day ; then add 
the chopped apple and suet, and the grated rind and juice of the 
lemons, chopped candied fruit and the rest of the ingredients. Half 
a bottle of sherry may be added. Stir well, put in a stone jar, in a 
cool, dry place, covered tightly ; let it stand for one week. Stir, then 
season and flavor to taste. Suet and apples must be chopped fine. 
If you wish a richer pie, add bits of butter, lay on more fruit, and 
add a tablespoon of brandy before covering the pie. Have all the 
raisins stoned ; chop half of them. 

Lemon Pie. Two lemons, two cups of sugar, four eggs, one cup 
of cream (or one of milk and a tablespoon of butter). Grate the 
rind; squeeze the juice ; beat the yolks creamy, add sugar and cream, 



PROGKKS.-IYK COOKKRV 121 

then the grated rind and juice of lemons. Bake as directed in Marl- 
borough pie. Make a meringue of the remaining whites. One 
Boston cracker rolled and sifted may he added, if desired, to the pie 
mixture. 

Banana Pie. Banana pie i^ made by making a custard and mix- 
ing with the pulp of three bananas pressed through a colander or 
sieve, and baked in a rich, open pastry crust, and finished with a 
meringue. 

Lemon Filling (for Tarts). Juice of six lemons, grated rind of 
four, one pound of sugar, one-half dozen eggs. Beat eggs light, add 
sugar and juice, beat all thoroughly together, cook in a dish of hot 
water to the thickness of honey. Bottle, and keep in a dry place. 
This quantity will make fifty tarts, and will keep for months. 

Custard Pie. One pint of milk, four eggs, small pinch of salt, 
one-half cup of sugar, grating of nutmeg. Beat the eggs, add the 
sugar, salt and nutmeg. Bake in pie plate with rims of crust till 
the center is firm. 

Pie Plant or Rhubarb Pie. Make the same as apple adding 
three times the sugar, or stew the pie plant and then bake. 
All fruit pies are made similar to the above receipt. 



DOUGHNUTS, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 



Raised Doughnuts. One pint risen milk bread dough, one cup 
of sugar, two eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, spice to taste, flour 
enough to roll out. Cut in shape, and let the doughnuts stand until 
light, and fry in boiling lard. 

Doughnuts. One pint of flour, one-quarter of a cup of sugar, 
one-half teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder, one salt- 
spoon of cinnamon, one-half to three-quarters of a cup of milk, one 
egg, one tablespoon of butter. Rub butter into flour. Mix other 
ingredients with the flour. Add ^beaten egg to the milk. Take a 
small portion at a time, roll out one-third of an inch thick, and cut 
with a ring cutter. Put the scraps with another portion, and roll 
again. When all are rolled, fry in deep, hot fat. Turn when brown 
and when done drain on paper, in a colander. Do not pile hot 
doughnuts on top of each other. 

Doughnuts. One cup of sugar, one cup of milk, three eggs, two 
teaspoons of baking powder, butter size of an egg ; add one-half tea- 
spoon of extract of cinnamon, nutmeg, or lemon juice, five cups of 
flour. Mix and handle as in above recipe. 

Crullers. One-quarter cup of butter, one-quarter cup of sugar, 
one-half nutmeg, one and one-half cups of flour, two eggs, teaspoon 
of lemon juice. Beat butter to a cream, gradually beat sugar into it, 
then add well beaten yolks, and nutmeg and lemon, then add whites 

122 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 123 

beaten to stiff froth. Beat in flour, a little at a time. Flour the 
board well, roll out the dough to the thickness of half an inch. Cut 
\with jagging iron, twist into different shapes, and fry. 

Fried Turnovers. Take short pie-crust, roll rather thin, cut in 
rounds the size of a saucer. Put in the center apple-sauce, or any 
Mewed fruit, not too juicy. Wet edges with cold water, fold in the 
middle to make a half circle, pinch carefully, to keep juice from 
running. Fry in frying basket, in boiling fat. Sprinkle with sugar. 
Serve in a hot napkin. 

Russian Turnovers. The Russians and Germans do not cook soup 
meat t<> shreds. Take one cup of cold chopped soup meat. Season 
with one-quarter of a clove of garlic, a speck of cayenne, a few drops 
of lemon juice, a tablespoon of melted butter, one-half teaspoon of 
salt. Roll out short crust rather thin, cut with large biscuit cutter. 
Put in the center of rounds one tablespoon of chopped meat. Fold 
ever as directed above. Bake. Serve with soup. 

fritter Batter. Yolks of two eggs beaten well, add one-half cup 
of milk, one saltspoon of salt, one cup of flour, or enough to drop 
from a tablespoon wet in cold water ; a teaspoon of olive oil may 
In- added. When ready to use add whites of eggs beaten stiff. Jf 
used for fruit add a teaspoon of sugar to the batter. If for dams. 
tripe, or meat, add one teaspoon of lemon juice. This batter will 
keep in a cool place several days. 

Egg Plant Fritters. Put whole egg plant into boiling salted 
water, mixed with one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice; cook 
twenty minutes, or until tender, mash and drain. To one pint of 
egg plant add one-half cup of flour, two eggs, well beaten, and salt 
and pepper to taste. Drop from a tablespoon wet in cold water into 
hot fat. 

Another \Vay. Cut egg plant in thin slices ; sprinkle over Halt, 
pile up and let stand one-half hour : drain, dip in fritter batter: 
fry in hot lard. 



124 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Dresden Fritters. Cut slices of stale bread an inch thick, remove 
crust, cut with a biscuit cutter, then cut with a smaller cutter about, 
half an inch from the edge, and one -third through the bread, leaving 
two-thirds uncut. Take one pint of milk, a little salt, add two 
beaten eggs ; soak the bread in this, being careful not to break. 
Remove carefully, sprinkle with dry bread crumbs, dip in egg, then 
in bread crumbs. Put in a wire basket, and fry in smoking hot fat. 
Take out the center of the fritters, remove a little of the bread, fill 
with oysters ; put back the cover. These are very good filled with 
any preserve or jelly, sprinkling sugar and cinnamon over the top. 

Fritters may be cooked in deep, hot lard or mustard oil, or in 
spider with a little hot sweet oil or butter. 

Apple Fritters. Peel and core three or four apples ; do not break 
them ; cut in rather thin slices. Sprinkle with sugar, lemon and 
spice. Dip each slice in fritter batter, and fry in hot fat or sweet oil. 
Drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 

Clam Fritters. Make clam fritters the same as other fritters, 
using the clam liquor instead of milk. 

Vegetables, such as celery, salsify, or parsnips, should be boiled 
until tender, then drained and cut into small pieces, and stirred into 
batter. 

To mix fritter dough without lumps, put flour in bowl, make a 
hole in the center, add the ingredients, and stir the liquid in 
gradually. 

Corn Fritters. Grate two cups of green corn, add to fritter 
batter. Fry as before directed. 

Cooked Oatmeal Fritters. One cup of cold, cooked oatmeal, 
one cup of milk, two eggs, two-thirds of a cup of flour. Mix the 
oatmeal and milk together. AYhen smooth, put in the flour, and 
lastly the well-beaten eggs. Drop from a tablespoon which has been 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 125 

dipped into cold water into smoking fat. Serve hot with sugar 
sprinkled over, or two tablespoons of sugar may be added to the 
mixture. If the mixture is too thin, they will spread. In that case 
add a little more flour. 

Rolled Griddle Cakes. Two eggs, two tablespoons of flour, salt, 
and milk to make rcnj thin batter. Beat the yolks, add flour, a little 
milk, then more flour, and so on until flour is used ; add well beaten 
whites. I'our in hot greased frying pan one tablespoon of the mix- 
ture, or just enough to cover a small frying pan ; turn quickly, brown 
and remove. Spread with jelly, roll, and sprinkle with sugar. These 
are very good for dessert, eaten with sugar and sherry. 

Griddle Cakes. One pint of flour, one scant pint of sour milk, 
two eggs, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of soda. Sift 
the flour, salt and soda together, add the milk and beat well, then 
the beaten yolks, lastly the well-beaten whites. 

Rice Griddle Cakes. Two cups of cold boiled rice or hominy, one 
teaspoon of sugar, one-half teaspoon of salt, two eggs, two cups of 
milk. Hour enough to make a thin batter that will run from the 
mouth of the pitcher in a thick, continuous stream, one teaspoon 
baking powder. Have the griddle well-heated and greased, make the 
cakes large, bake brown, turn, and brown the other side, serve with 
maple syrup. 

Buckwheat Cakes. Pour one quart of boiling water on one-half 
(up of fine corn meal ; add one-half teaspoon of salt ; mix well, and 
when lukewarm add one-half cup of flour, one cup of buckwheat, 
and one cup of yeast. Stir n~dl. Letriseover night. In the morn- 
ing stir down and beat. \Vhen risen and ready to bake, add one 
saltspoon of soda sifted through a fine sieve. Bake same as griddle 
cakes. Buckwheat cakes, even if not sour, require the addition of 
soda just before baking ; it makes them light and tender. 



126 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Fried Mushes. Mushes that are left over may be packed in a 
round mold or in a one-quart measure ; cut in slices (if they are not 
stiff enough dip in flour), and fry in hot dripping; if made pur- 
posely for frying, make a little stiffer than for ordinary use. A very 
attractive and appetizing dish may be made of corned beef hash, 
with slices of well-browned mush around the edge of the dish. 

Oatmeal Mush. Put one cup of oatmeal in double boiler with a 
teaspoon of salt ; pour gradually over a quart of boiling water stir- 
ring all the time. Cook two hours. Remove the cover once in a 
while and stir with a fork. 

Indian Meal Mush. Mix one cup of corn meal with one cup of 
cold water ; one-half teaspoon of salt. Pour over a pint of boiling 
water ; cook one hour in double boiler. Graham and rye are made 
the same. 

Welsh Rarebit. Heat one teaspoon of butter in a frying pan, put 
in one-half of a pound of rich moist American cheese, season with 
saltspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of pepper, a speck of cayenne, 
and a saltspoon of mustard. Stir with a wooden spoon until ropy, 
then stir in one-fourth of a cup of ale. Have slices of nicely toasted 
bread on hot plates ; pour over the rarebit. Serve immediately. 

Golden Buck. Make a Welsh rarebit, as before directed, adding 
to each piece of toast a poached egg. 

Another Way to Prepare Welsh Rarebit. Toast six slices of bread, 
cover each with a slice of Swiss cheese one-third of an inch thick, 
lay in a baking pan, sprinkle with a little pepper, and bake in a hot 
oven. Serve on hot plates. 

Cottage Cheese. Take sour milk, not too old, put on the back 
of the stove and heat, not boil. Pour into an empty, clean salt bug. 



PROGKKSSIVK COOKKRY 127 

hang up and let drain four or five hours. Turn out into a howl, add 
salt and pepper and moisten with cream. Some like chives finely 
chopped, sprinkled over the top. 

Ham Sandwiches a la Parisienne. Between slices of thinly cut 
white bread spread a mixture of Deviled ham, finely chopped, hard- 
lx)iled eggs and cream sauce. Stamp out in round, oval, square or 
oblong shapes. Butter the tops. Sprinkle on one-half the number 
of sandwiches, finely chopped parsley and hard-boiled yolk of egg 
rubbed through a sieve, and on the other half parsley and white of 
egg chopped very fine. Arrange tastefully and serve on small 
plates. 

Sandwiches. Cut bread in thin slices, trim off the crust, spread 
with butter and any chopped meat, nicely seasoned, with salt, pepper 
and mustard. Lay. another slice on top. Sardines make a good 
sandwich. Lay a damp cloth over them to keep moist. 

Chocolate Butter. One cup of butter, one cup of grated sweet 
chocolate, one teaspoon of cinnamon, one-half cup of sugar. Melt 
1 Hitter, put chocolate, sugar and cinnamon together and stir into the 
hot butter. Wet a bowl in cold water, and pour in, and cover with 
a greased paper. To be spread on warm biscuit. 

German Toast. Cut six slices of stale German white bread, one- 
half inch thick, soak in one cup of milk to which an egg and a pinch 
of salt have been added. When they have absorbed all they will 
hold remove carefully, drain, dip in one beaten egg and fry brown on 
both sides in hot butter or olive oil. A good dessert, served with 
any kind of sauce. 

Cracker Brewis. Split the crackers, spread with the butter and 
cheese mixture. Place in a shallow earthen dish, add milk, one- 
quarter cup to each whole cracker. Bake until brown. Omit the 
cheese if preferred. 



128 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Lop Scotch. Cover six pilot crackers with cold water, for about 
an hour, or until soft. Lay in deep dish, one at a time, sprinkle 
with a little salt and pepper, and drop bits of butter thickly over 
them, then another layer of crackers, seasoning, butter, and so on 
until all are used. Nearly cover with water or milk. Cover and 
bake until water or milk is absorbed. If too dry when taken from 
oven, pour over a little hot milk. 

Beans. New England beans are baked in a brick oven, and baked 
over night. The results cannot "be the same when baked in a stove 
oven, as it is impossible to have the oven of an even temperature. 

Baked Beans. Pick over and wash one quart of pea beans, soak 
over night in cold water. In the morning put into fresh water, and 
simmer until soft, but not break. Turn into a colander, and pour 
cold water over. Put one-half of the beans in pot. Pour hot water 
over a quarter of a pound of salt pork, part fat and part lean ; scrape 
the rind. Cut the rind in one-half inch strips. Put into the pot, 
and then add the rest of the beans, leaving the rind exposed ; cover 
with hot water. Bake in slow oven nearly all day. (If you like, put 
one small onion in the bottom of bean pot, or one tablespoon of 
molasses, or one-half teaspoon of mustard, or all.) Cover the bean 
pot for the first six hours, then bake without. Add a little hot water 
from time to time. 

Samp and Spanish Beans. Soak one pint of beans and one pint 
of samp over night in separate dishes. In the morning pour off the 
water from beans, put on to cook in fresh water. Cook samp in 
another pot. Let both cook for two days, or until nearly soft. Add 
samp to beans, also one-half pound of salt pork, a grain of pepper 
and a speck of cayenne. Cook until the pork is tender. Replenish 
with water when necessary, but not so as to boil over. There should 
not be too much liquid when done. They are better the oftener they 
are warmed. 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 



Heat jelly glasses and jars in a pan of hot water, or put water in 
a Kaking pan and place in a moderate oven. This allows the air to 
escape and prevents the jars from breaking when the hot liquid is 
poured in. Fill the jars to overflowing. Run a silver knife down 
the sides, so that the air hubbies will arise to the surface. Screw on 
the covers, wash the jars off, and when cold screw on the cover again 
as tiirlit as possible. 

Put on the top of jellies pieces of paper cut to fit the glasses, 
dipped in brandy. Cover neatly with rounds of soft white paper, 
cut larger than the glass, dipped in the white of egg, and press in 
little folds neatly around the edges, or dip the paper in a flour and 
water mixture. 

'Hi row apples and pears into cold water to keep them from dis- 
coloring. 

Keep preserves and jellies in a dry, cool place. 
In heating the sugar, be careful not to brown it. 
Parboil lemons to take out the bitter taste. 

Yellow Tomato Preserves. Six pounds of skinned tomatoes, 
eight coffee cups of sugar, two coffee cups of water, one-half cup of 
green ginger after it is sliced, three lemons. Put water, sugar and 
ginger on to boil together for a few moments. Parboil lemons to take 
out the bitter, then slice them thin, then add with tomatoes, 
pouring off tin- water from the latter. Cook all slowly two or more 

129 



130 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

hours. This will fill three quart jars. Prepare the ginger before- 
hand, as it is very tedious. Green ginger can be procured in China- 
town, and will keep fresh a long time in a cool place. Put away as 
directed. 

Preserved Pears. Peal, quarter and core Bartlett Pears ; throw 
them in cold water. 

Fill quart preserve jars neatly with the fruit. Put on the stove 
wash boiler, cover the bottom with a frame made of slats. Set in 
the jars ; fill the boiler half way up the jars with cold water. Have 
ready syrup allowing one pound to a quart of water, cook ten min- 
utes, cool and fill up the jars ; cover the boiler tightly to keep in 
the stean ; when the water boils cook twenty minutes or till the fruit is 
tender. Remove and cover as directed. 

For twelve jars use nine quarts of water and five pounds of sugar. 

Preserved Pears. Six firm pears of medium size, two Sicily 
lemons, two cups of sugar, and one quart of water. Wash, peel and 
halve the pears, remove the core, throw them into cold water to keep 
them from discoloring. Parboil the lemons to take out the bitter. 
Then slice thin. Mix the sugar and water together, and let boil up 
once. Add the pears and lemon ; cook until soft ; be careful not to 
break the pears. Put your jars in a pan of hot water. Take out the 
pears carefully, and place in the hot jars. Strain the syrup and fill 
the jars to overflowing. Run a silver knife down the sides, so that 
the air bubbles will rise to the surface. Screw on the covers tight, 
wash the jars off, and when cold screw the covers again as tight as 
possible. Put away in a dry, cool place. The same directions may 
be used for apricots, or any large fruit. 

Preserved Cherries. Stone the cherries, measure a bowl of fruit 
and the same quantity of sugar. Put in preserving kettle over night 
a layer of cherries and a layer of sugar. In the morning cook 
slowly without stirring until the liquid is clear and the fruit soft. 



PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 181 

Pits of cherries may be added if the flavor is desired. All other 
small fruit may be cooked in the same way. Another way is to make 
a syrup of one pound of granulated sugar and two-thirds of a pound 
of brown sugar. When the syrup has cooked twenty-five minutes 
and been well skimmed, drop in the fruit and when soft remove into 
hot jars ; reduce the syrup and pour over. 

Preserved Tomatoes. Seven pounds of tomatoes, five and one- 
quarter pounds of sugar, one ounce of green ginger-root, two lemons. 
Prick each tomato before cooking to let out the air. Pour scalding 
water over the ginger, let it stand fifteen minutes, scrape off the skin, 
break into pieces, and wash again. Put the sugar into the kettle 
with just enough water to dissolve it (about one cup of water to each 
pound of sugar). When dissolved add the ginger, sliced lemon and 
tomatoes. Cook until tender (about half an hour), then take out 
the tomatoes and cook syrup one and one-half hours, or until 
thick. 

Canned Peaches. Four pounds of peaches, one pound of sugar, 
one quart of water. Scald and pare peaches, and cover with cold 
water. Put sugar and water in porcelain-lined kettle, place on the 
fire, and stir until dissolved. Drain peaches, and put them into the 
syrup, bring quickly to a boil, then stand where they will scarcely 
bubble, until tender. Fill the hot tin cans quickly, and seal at 
once. 

Orange Marmalade. Take six oranges, boil till tender, in 
three quarts of water till soft, remove the oranges. To the water add 
five pounds of sugar, boil three-fourths of an hour. Slice the oranges 
thin, add to the syrup, boil three-fourths hours. Add the juice 
of one lemon after taking off the stove. 

Grape Jelly. Stem the grapes and mash them in the preserving 
kettle. Boil freely for twenty minutes, then strain. To every pint 



132 PROGRESSIVE COOKEKV 

of juice allow one pound of sugar. Boil juice five minutes, skim- 
ming carefully. Warm sugar and add gradually, stirring until 
thoroughly melted ; boil ten minutes. Select grapes that are firm, and 
not quite ripe. 

Spiced Grape. Seven pounds of grapes, five pounds of sugar, 
one ounce (scant) of cloves, and the same of cinnamon, one-half 
pint of vinegar. Pulp the grapes, keeping the skins. Put pulp in 
kettle, and cook until the seeds separate. Then strain and add 
to the skins, with sugar, spice and vinegar. Boil fifteen min- 
utes, stirring all the time. 

Currant Jelly. Buy currants when they first come into the mar- 
ket. Wash and dry ; do not stem. Squeeze through a strong bag, 
or through, four thicknesses of cheesecloth. Strain again through a 
hair sieve. To every quart of juice add two-thirds of a quart of 
sugar. Boil the juice hard for fifteen minutes ; skim ; add heated 
sugar, boil up once. Skim, and fill jelly glasses. Cover when 
cold. 

Apple Jelly. Gravenstein apples make the clearest jelly. Wash, 
halve and quarter four pounds of apples, leaving in the core. Put 
in preserving kettle, cover with cold water ; add two Sicily lemons 
chopped. Cook the apples until soft, but not so they will break. 
Strain through the sieve, press gently to get out the juice, but not the 
pulp ; strain again through four thicknesses of cheese cloth. To 
every quart of juice allow two-thirds of a quart of sugar. Return 
juice to preserving kettle, boil hard twenty minutes, skim, then add 
hot granulated sugar, boil five minutes, skim. Dip a cold cup in 
the kettle and if it jellies on the outside it is ready to put in glasses. 
If jelly cooks too long it will become syrup. 



rix.i:i->siVK rooKKKY 133 

Strawberry or Raspberry Preserves. To every pound of straw- 
berries add two-thirds pounds of granulated sugar. Pick over berries. 
Throw the sugar over the berries ; let them stand over night. 

Put'the berries and sugar into preserving kettle and cook till the 
berries are soft, being careful to" keep them whole ; skim, thin out 
carefully, drain them. Cook the syrup till thick. Put the berries 
into hot jars, cover with the sugar. If you wish them a bright red, 
color the syrup with fruit coloring. 

Preserved Blackberries. Pound of blackberries. To each pound 
of berries allow one half pound of sugar. Cook one hour slowly, 
skim carefully. 

Blackberries cooked whole are hard. 



PICKLES 



Scald cucumbers in vinegar and water, half of each. Then put 
them in cold water for half an hour ; lay them in a jar. put on red 
and black pepper, spices, ginger, horse-radish and mustard seeds ; 
then pour over boiling vinegar. In twenty-four hours your pickles 
will be ready for use. 

Pickled Cucumbers. Take twenty-five pounds of cucumbers 
from the salt, soak twenty-four hours in clear water ; then pour the 
following ingredients over them scalding hot : One pound of white 
mustard seed, one pound of black mustard seed, one pound of cel- 
ery seed, one-half pound of whole allspice, one-half pound of black 
pepper, three pounds of brown sugar, six pounds of white onions, 
one pound of red peppers, two pounds of green peppers (seeds taken 
out), two ounces of coreander seed, one ounce of cardamum seed, 
one ounce of turmeric, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of garlic, 
one ounce of horse-radish, one ounce of cloves, one bottle of English 
mustard, three gallons of cider vinegar. 

Pickled Peaches. Pare the peaches, put one whole clove into 
each peach ; pack them into a stone jar ; make a syrup of three 
pounds of sugar, one pint of good cider vinegar to every eight pounds 
of fruit, one tablespoon of whole allspice, and two tablespoons of 
cassia buds. Boil the syrup and spices about ten minutes, and pour 
over the fruit ; put a plate on top of the fruit to hold it down. Let 
this stand twenty-four hours ; then pour off the syrup into the pre- 
serving kettle; when it boils put in the fruit and boil it until it 
begins to be soft then put the fruit in your glass jars, and fill up 
with the syrup. 

134 



PROGRESSIVE (DOKKKV l:;."i 

Pickled Onions. Four quarts small onions. Put them in boil- 
ing water ami remove the skins ; cover with salt and let stand twenty- 
four hours. Remove from the salts, pour over cold water and drain. 
Boil two quarts of vinegar with whole spices and a pound of sugar, 
pour over the onions and bottle when cold. 

Piccalilli. To one peck green tomatoes, sliced, add a pint of salt ; 
>ver with water, and let them stand twelve hours ; squeeze them 
out, and let them remain in fresh water a few hours. Take ten or 
twelve preen peppers and seven large onions, put them with the 
tomatoes and chop all fine ; put them in a porcelain kettle with weak 
vinegar, and let them boil or scald awhile; draw off the vinegar 
and take some good old cider vinegar, a pint of white mustard seed, 
and some grated horseradish, add two tablespoons of brown sugar, 
mace, cinnamon, cloves, to your taste. Boil up and pour over all 
and put away in jars. 

Grape Catsup. Take five pounds of grapes, boil and run through 
a colander ; add two and one-half pounds of sugar, one pint of vine- 
irar. one tablespoon each of cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and 
one-half tablespoon of salt ; boil until the catsup is a little thick. 

Plum Catsup. Seven pounds of plums, four pounds of sugar, 
one quart of vinegar, one tablespoon each of cinnamon, allspice, 
mustard, ginger, one-half tablespoon cloves, salt ; cook plums a little 
then put through a colander ; add other ingredients, and boil slowly 
three hours. 

Tomato Catsup. Twelve large, firm, ripe tomatoes, six green 
peppers, four onions, one-half cup brown sugar, two cups sharp 
vinegar, one tablespoon of cloves, two tablespoons each of cinnamon 
and allspice, one teaspoon of black pepper, one-half cup of salt. Cut 
and stew tomatoes, pepper and onions until soft, then strain and rub 
through a hair sieve; add the other ingredients and the vinegar. 



136 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

Cook slowly four or five hours ; remove from stove ; when cold if 
water rises on the top they have not been cooked long enough. Cook 
again and bottle. Add more vinegar and seasoning while cooking, 
if desired. 

Green Tomato Sweet Pickle. One fruit basket of green tomatoes, 
slice medium thickness, sprinkle with one teacup of salt, and drain 
for twenty-four hours on sieve or colander. Boil in two quarts of 
water to one of vinegar for twenty-five minutes ; drain again. Add 
six very large sliced onions, two pounds brown sugar, one-half pound 
white mustard seed, two even tablespoons each of allspice, cloves, 
ginger, mustard, cinnamon, one-half tablespoon of cayenne pepper, 
and three quarts of vinegar. Boil for twenty minutes. 



FIG PICKI,KS 



Seven pounds of figs, one pint of vinegar, five pounds sugar, one 
tablespoonful whole cloves, one stick of cinnamon, a small piece of 
ginger root and two lemons sliced ; boil all together five or ten min- 
utes ; prick the figs, and add in portions to boiling syrup; cook 
fifteen minutes ; strain the figs out, fill the jars. Continue thus till 
all the figs are cooked. Pour over the rest of the syrup. 

Sweet Pickled Watermelon. Remove the skin from the rind of 
a small watermelon. Cut in inch cubes. Put into water and cook 
till tender ; remove and spread to cool. To five pounds of sugar 
add one pint of vinegar ; boil up once. Tie up in cheese cloth whole 
cloves, cinnamon, ginger root ; add to the syrup. Put in the water- 
melon rind, cook till transparent. 



BEVERAGES 



Filtered Coffee. Heat coffee, and grind it very fine. Put in the 
filterer, and place the coffee-pot in a saucepan of boiling water on 
the back of stove. For one cup of coffee add one cup of boil- 
ing water. Cover, and let stand five minutes. Then add another 
cup of water. Continue adding boiling water every two minutes 
till four cups have been used. 

Coffee. One tablespoon of coffee for the coffee-pot, and one table- 
spoon for each person, for one cup of coffee, or allow one cup of coffee 
to every quart of water. Let it soak over night. In the morning 
set on the stove, and let it just come to a boil. Remove and let 
settle. 

Coffee ( with Egg). One cup of finely ground coffee and one egg 
mixed well together with two tablespoons of cold water. Pour over 
one quart of boiling water ; let boil five minutes. To make good 
tea and coffee the -H'titcr itmxt be boiling, not aim ////'////. To make 
coffee for picnics, festivals, etc., put in flannel bags, pour boiling 
water on, and let boil ten minutes. This is by fat the most satis- 
factory way of preparing for large gatherings. 

I!lack coffee is made twice as strong as other coffee. 

Vienna coffee is the addition of whipped cream piled on each cup. 

Cafe au I. ait is half coffee and half hot milk. 

Coffee and cognac is brandy or cognac poured over lumps of suirar; 
set on fire ; when it stops burning add one teaspoon to each cup of 
black coffee. 

A pinch of soda added to coffee when it is cooked takes away the 
acidity. 

137 



138 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 

How to Serve Coffee, etc. Cream, cube sugar and scalded milk 
are essential to good breakfast and lunch coffee. The milk should 
be hot. Boiled milk gives an unpleasant flavor. Put sugar, cream, 
and milk in the cup before pouring in the coffee. No milk or cream 
for dinner parties. 

Tea. Allow one teaspoon to the teapot, and one for each person. 
Put tea in earthen teapot, and pour boiling water over ; let stand in 
hot place a few moments. Put sugar and cream in the cup, and then 
pour over tea. 

Iced Tea. Fill a glass with chipped ice ; lay on the ice three or 
four lumps of sugar ; squeeze over this the juice of half a lemon. 
then pour over the mixture freshly made hot tea. Less lemon juice 
may be used, or more sugar added, as preferred. 

Tea a la Russe. Russian tea is made on the table by the hostess. 
Three heaping tablespoons of black tea, pour over boiling water 
enough to cover ; let it infuse for a short time. Then add boiling 
water as needed. Into each tumbler squeeze a little lemon juice, add 
a slice of lemon, and sweeten ; pour over the tea. The old Russian 
style is to serve with rum. 

Spanish Chocolate. Two ounces of chocolate to a pint of milk, 
and one teaspoon of cinnamon. Break the chocolate into a tin 
saucepan, with two tablespoons of water ; set on a slow fire ; stir 
until melted. Heat the milk in another pan, and when hot turn 
into the chocolate little by little, working well with a moudliere or a 
Dover beater. Cook six minutes, and serve with whipped cream 
piled on each cup. 

Cocoa Shells. One cup of cocoa shells, three pints of cold water. 
Pour the water over them ; soak over night. Boil in the same water 
one-half hour. Cocoa shells are wholesome and inexpensive, and 
are better when the nut is broken in with them. 



rnoKKKY 139 

Eggnog. Beat the yolk of one egg, add one teaspoon of sugar, 
beat again, and add a teaspoon of brandy and one cup of milk. Beat 
the white of the egg and pile on the top. Grate over a little nutmeg. 

Punch. Put one teaspoon of black tea in a bowl with one clove, 
a small piece of cinnamon, and a lemon cut in small pieces ; pour 
over this one quart of boiling water. Put one-half of a bottle of 
brandy in an earthen bowl, and add over half a cup of sugar. Set 
on fire ; when it stops burning, add to the tea mixture. Have 
a lump of ice in punch bowl, and add the strained punch. 

Another Way. Grate the rind of one lemon and two oranges, the 
yellow only, on a piece of sugar, put in a bowl with pint of cold 
water to dissolve it, add two gills of pineapple syrup, a pint of claret, 
one pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, one pint of Cham- 
pagne, and a gill of brandy ; sweeten to taste, strain, and put on ice 
for some time before serving. 

Currant Ice Water. Press the juice from ripe currants, strain, 
add one-half pound of sugar to every pint of juice. The sugar may 
be dissolved either by stirring it in the juice in a saucepan over the 
fire, or by putting it in bottles, setting them over the fire in a sauce- 
pan of cold water, allowing them to become gradually heated to a 
boiling point. When cold, cork, seal, and put in a cool, dry pla< <. 
Mix with ice water fora beverage. The juiceof other acid fruits may 
be preserved in a like manner. 

Raspberry Vinegar. Raspberry vinegaror shrub. Cover berries 
with vinegar and soak over night. Drain off or squeeze out the juice, 
to every pint of which add one pound of sugar. Let it simmer about 
fifteen minutes. When cool, bottle. 



CANDIES 



Huyler's White Fondant. Two and one-half cups of granulated 
sugar, one and one-half cups of cold water. Boil to 246 After the 
mixture begins to boil wash down the sides with a brush to prevent 
graining, but do not stir ; wet the brush in cold water. For tough 
cream add one-quarter of a teaspoon ful of cream tartar ; pour out 
mixture and work to a cream ; then put away covered tight for three 
. days. 

Huyler's Coffee Fondant. One-half pound of coffee, one and 
one-half cups of water, two and one-half pounds of A sugar. Put 
coffee and water into a dish, steep until ready to boil ; remove at 
once, strain, add sugar, and boil to 245, as directed above. 

Cream for Candy. Two cups of sugar, one small cup of water : 
boil fifteen minutes without stirring. Try, and if drops come off 
quickly, boil a moment, then try again, and if the drops come slow 
and thick, and after the last a short, thick end remains, the point is 
nearly reached ; the next dip will leave a long, floating hair. Pour 
into a bowl, and when just warm beat until white and creamy and 
thick ; then you can work in your hands. Put in a tumbler and 
cover with an oiled paper. 

Pop Corn Candy. . One pint of molasses, one-half pint of white 
sugar, butter the size of an egg, level teaspoon of sugar, four quarts 
of pop corn. Boil until when dropped in cold water it is brittle. 
Flour a board and pour the mixture over it. Pile the pop corn on 
the top and press down. When nearly cold crease into squares. 

140 



PROGRESSIVE rooKKKY 141 

Baby Cream. Four cups granulated sugar, one cup of water, 
fresh butter size of an egg. 

Cream Peppermints. Make a syrup of one-half of a pint of^ 
water, ten ounces of granulated sugar. Boil to 230 degrees. Add 
one-half of a teaspoon of cream of tartar. If not stiff enough, add 
powdered sugar. Color pink and flavor with wintergreen if wished. 
Drop on marble or into forms. 

Fruit Bonbons. Take some big strawberries, ripe but firm, and 
hull them. Then mix two cupfuls of granulated sugar with a little 
less than one cupful of cold water. Put the mixture on a hot fire 
and let it boil hard, without stirring, until a spoonful dropped into 
cold water crystallizes to the brittle point immediately. Now take 
it off the fire and pour into a bowl previously warmed in the oven. 
Dip the strawberries, one by one, into this hot solution as quickly 
as possible, fishing them out with forks and laying them on greased 
tin pans. The briefest sort of an immersion will be sufficient to 
give each berry the desired coating of sugar candy. Finally, set the 
pans on the ice in the refrigerator, and as soon as the fruit is cold it 
will be ready to eat. Malaga grapes and nuts as well may be treated 
in the same way. 

Cream for French Candies. Four cups of granulated sugar. 
Pour over the sugar one cup of boiling water ; stir till dissolved; 
add two tablespoons of glucose; boil. When dropped in cold water, 
a ball ran be made. Pour out; beat till thick. Put on a marble 
slab and work till creamy. 



MEANING OF TERMS USED IN 
COOKING 



A la, au, aux, Dressed in a certain style. 

A la Poulette, Meat or fish, etc., warmed in white sauce, with 
yolks of eggs added. 

An Beurre roux, With browned butter. 

Bisque, A shell-fish soup. 

Croustade, Or oyster loaf.. Cut off the end of a German loaf of 
bread, remove the inside, fill in with hot oysters, put on the end or 
cover. 

Chervil, Sweet parsley used in French salad. 

En Coquille, Served in shells. 

"71 Papillate, In papers. 

Glaze, Stock of preserves boiled down to a thin paste. 

Jardiniere, A mixed preparation of vegetables stewed in stock and 
garnished with green peas. 

Maitre d'hotel, Master of the hotel. 

Menu, Bill of fare. 

Truffles, A fungus growing in clusters a few inches underground, 
having an agreeable perfume. Dogs are trained to find them. They 
cannot be cultivated. Used in seasoning and garniture. 

Puree, A soup rubbed through a French sieve. 

Quenelles, A forcemeat powdered before cooking. 

Vol-au-vent, A large round of puff paste, with the centre round 
filled with oysters, French hash, etc. 

142 



PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Ho 

Rour, Butter and flour blended together in different ways. 
Angelica, A plant preserved and made into candy. 
Tarragon, An herb, the leaves of which are added to vinegar, 
called tarragon vinegar. 

An lu'rli having a perfume like cloves, used in seasoning. 

A s-Oirub with small, tender stalks, having the flavor of 
onions. Chopped and used in salads. 
P<iic an chouy, Cream cake paste. 



ERRATA 



Page 59, lid line, after llth word, read "yelks of t\v<> eggs." etc. 

Page 76, OYSTER SALAD, 1st line, instead "One-third cup," read "one 
nip or more." 

Page 81, OLD TIME SPONGE CAKE, 6th line, instead of "flour" read 
" fold in the well-beaten whites." 

Page 83, COCOAXUT CAKE, 6th line, after "corn starch" omit "and 
soda." 

Page 115, BISCUIT, 3d line, instead of the word "flour" read "butter 
and lard." 



K 



NOX'S SPARKLING 




Gelatine 



THE PUREST MADE 



THE ONLY GELATINE endorsed and 
used by the Scientific Cooking De- 
partment at the Boston Pure Food 
and Health Exposition 

RECEIVED MEDAL of Superiority over 
all Brands, Domestic and Foreign, at 
the American Institute Fair, New 
York It is the 

QUICKEST DISSOLVING Gelatine made 
and the only Gelatine with no odor or 
taste. Your Grocer should keep it 
for every Grocer who wants .... 

PURE GOODS has it or can get it. 



CHARLES B. KNOX 

Manufacturer 

Johnstown, N. Y. 



INDEX 



BREAD 

Brown Boiled, 113 

Brown Steamed, 113 

Brown Raised, 113 

Biscuit, 115 

Biscuit Egg, 115 

Biscuit, Maryland, 114 

Corncake, 116 

Corn cake Southern, 116 

Corncake Sponge, 116 

Corncake scalded, 114 

Graham Puffs, 114 

Hominy and Corn Meal Cakes, 116 

Indian Cakes Fried, 116 

Lemon Sauce, 115 

Muffins Rye, 114 

Pop Overs, 114 

Raised Waffles, 115 

Rolls Parker House, 112 

Sticks, 112 

Water Bread, 111 

Yeast Hard, 111 

Yeast Hop, 111 

Yeast Potato, 111 



BEVERAGES 
Coffee, 137 
Coffee with egg, 137 
Coffee, Filtered, 137 
Coffee, How to Serve, 137 
Cocoa Shells, 138 
Currant Ice Water, 139 
Eggnog, 139 
Punch, 139 

Raspberry Vinegar, 139 
Spanish Chocolate, 138 
Tea, 138 
Tea, Iced, 138 
Tea, a la Russe, 138 



CAKES 

Apple, 87 

Banana, 87 

Baba au Rhum, 81 



Baking Powders, 80 

Brandy Snap, 85 

Chocolate, 81 

Citron, 82 

Cocoanut, 83 

Coffee, 86 

Cup, 82 

Cream, 90 

Cream for Cream Cakes, 90 

Directions for Making, 78 

Dorcas, 84 

Dutch Apple, 88 

Diamond Sponge, 81 

Filling for, 84 

Frosting Chocolate, 90 

" No. 1, 89 

" Old Time, No. 2, 89 
Gold, 86 

Huckleberry, 89 
Ice Cream, 83 
. Icing Boiled, 89 
Icing, Cold Water, 89 
Icing, Chocolate No. 1, 89 
Icing, Chocolate No. 2, 90 
Lady Fingers or Sponge Drops, 80 
Measure or Fourth, 85 
Molasses Ginger Bread, 87 
Molasses Ginger Cakes, 87 
Nut, 87 

Old Time Sponge, 81 
Orange, Lemon or Pineapple, 88 
Porcupine, 83 
Pound, 84 

Princess or Angel, 85 
Quick, 82 
Rock, 86 
Sally Lunn, 89 
Sponge, 80 
Silver, 86 

Strawberry Short, 88 
Sunshine, 85 

To Prepare Lemons, Oranges or Pine- 
apples for Layer Cakes, 88 
Venetian, 87 
Wafers Walnut, 86 
Wafers Lemon, 82 



146 



INDEX 



147 



Weddinir, 84 
White, 84 



CANDIES 

Baby Cream, 141 
Cream for, 140 

Cream for French Candies, 141 
Fondant Huyler's White, 140 
Fondant Huyler's Coffee, 140 
Fruit Bonbons, 141 
Peppermints Cream, 141 
Pop Corn, 140 

DOUGHNUTS, GRIDDLK CAKES, KTC 
Beans, 128 
Beans, Baked, 128 
Beans Samp and Spanish, 128 
Buckwheat Cakes, 125 
Cottage Cheese, 126 
Chocolate Butter, 127 
Cracker Brewis, 127 
Crullers, 122 
Doughnuts, 122 
Doughnuts, Raised, 122 
Fritter Batter. 123 
Fritters Apple, 124 
Fritters Clam, 124 
Fritters Corn, 124 
Fritters Cooked Oatmeal, 124 
Fritters Dresden, 124 
Fritters Egg Plant, 123 
German Toast, 127 
Golden Buck, 126 
Griddle Cakes, 125 
Ham Sandwiches a la Parisienne, 127 
Lop Scotch, 128 
Mush Fried, 126 
Mush Indian Meal, 126 
Mush Oatmeal, 126 
Rice Griddle Cakes, 125 
Rolled Griddle Cakes, 125 
Sandwiches, i_'7 
Turnovers Fried, 123 
Turnovers, Russian, 123 
Welsh Rarebit, 126 

DESSERTS 

Apple Charlotte, 101 

Apples Cooked in Syrup, 108 

Apples Another Way, 108 

Apple Dessert, 99 

Apple Snow, 99 

Baked Apples with Stale Bread, 99 

Bavarian Cream, 97 

Bombe Glace, 103 

Charlotte Russe, 100 

Charlotte Russe Filling with Gelatine, 

100 

Cream Whips, 101 
Custard Boiled, 105, 106 
Custard Richer. 106 
Custard Virginia Caramel, 106 
Fruit Juices, 98 
<;iaee Meringue, ii'.: 
(iiiiL'i-r API 
Ice Cream Banana, 103 



Ice Cream Rich, 102 

Ice Cream Southern, 102 

Ice Cream Fruit. 98 

Ice Cream Royal, 97 

Jelly Orange, Lemon or Wine, '.(7 

Lemon Foam, 107 

Moonshine, 106 

Mousse Chocolate, 103 

Mousse Strawberry, 104 

Nesselrode Pudding, 105 

Orange with Claret Wine, 107 

Prombiere, 103 

Roman Punch, 104 

Salted Almonds, 105 

Salted Almonds, No. 2, 105 

Sherbet Pineapple, 104 

Sherbet Strawberry, 104 

Siberian Cream, 107 

Snow Pudding, 98 

Stewed Pie Plant, 108 

Tapioca Blanc Mange, 107 

Tapioca Cream, 107 

To Whip Cream Syllabub, 101 

To Whip Cream Stiff, 101 

Boos 

A la Duchese, 34 
A la Patti, 34 
Egg Nests on Toast, 35 
Hard Boiled, 34 
Omelette, 34 
Omelette, French, 35 
Soft Boiled, 34 
Stuffed, 35 

ENTBEKS 

Aspeeof Fillets of Chicken, 57 

Aspic Jelly, 58 

Baked Bell Peppers, 51 

Baked Macaroni, 62 

Baked Oysters, 58 

Barbecued Ham, 67 

Beefsteak and Sweetbreads, 56 

Brains, 57 

Brown Gravy and Sweetbreads, 5tJ. 

Calf's Head a la Turk, 67 

Cheese Fondu, 54 

Creme Frtte, 66 

Crouquettes Chicken, 64. 

Crouquettes Rice, 54 

Croustades of Asparagus, 61 

Crouxtades of Rice, 60 

Cutlets a la Main tenon, 55 

Cutlets, Lobster, 55 

( 'urried Oysters, 60 

Devilled Crab, 65 

Kscalloped Calves' Brains, 67 

Fancy Roast (Oysters), 59 

Fillet of Chicken, 63 

Fried Oysters, 58 

Frieasse of Chicken, 67 

Frogs I-egs a la Cream, 65 

Gallatinof Chicken, 63 

Glaze. 64 

Honolulu Curry, 67 

Kidney Stew with Sweetbreads, til) 

Liles aux Kmoules, 66 



148 



l.NUKX 



Lobster a la Newburp, 57 
Macaroni, 02 

Macaroni and Tomatoes, 62 
Macaroni Italian Style, 61 
Oysters and Bacon, 59 
Oysters en Beurre Nbir, 69 
Oysters en Coquille, 59 
Oysters a la Poulette, 58 
Peppers a laEspagnol, 61 
Pigeon or Quail au D61iee, 57 
Poached Eggs and Mushrooms, 61 
Quenelles, 65 
Rissoles or Ceciles, 66 
Scalloped Chicken, 64 
Shrimps, 66 
Smothered Chicken, 64 
Sweetbreads, 55 
Sweetbreads a la Marengo, 56 
Sweetbreads, Larded, 56 
Timballs of Chicken, 63 
Timballs of Salmon, 62 



FISH 

A la Cream, 30 

A la Normandie, 28 

A la Russe, 31 

Baked Fish, 32 

Baked with Oil and Tomatoes, 29 

Breaded Turbans of Flounders, 2H 

Broiled Salt Fish, 33 

Clam Chowder, 32 

Cooked Fresh Herbs, 29 

Dry Stuffing for Fish, 32 

Fish Chowder, 29, 32 

Fish Cooked with Oysters, 29 

Fish en Papillote, 29 

Fried Fish, 30 

Hash Salt Fish, 33 

Oyster Forcemeat, 30 

Pompano en Papillote, 31 

Salmon Pudding, 32 

Salt Fish Balls, 33 

Shell Fish, 31 

Stuffed Smelts, 30 



JELLIES AND PRESERVES 

Apple Jelly, 132 

Canned Peaches, 131 

Currant Jelly, 132 

Grape Jelly, 131 

Orange Marmalade, 131 

Preserved Blackberries, 133 

Preserved Cherries, 130 

Preserved Pears, 77, 130 

Preserved Tomatoes, 131 

Spiced Grape, 132 

Strawberry or Raspberry Preserves, 133 

Yellow Tomato Preserves, 12U 
Meaning of Terms used in Cooking, 142, 143. 



MEATS 

A Bad Habit, 36 
Beef Tea, 41 
Boiled Chicken. 42, 43 
Boiled Ham. 42 



Boiled Leg of Mutton, 42 

Boiled Leg of Mutton a la Francaise, 42 

Braizing, 37 

Broiling, 40 

Broiled Liver, 45 

Broiling in Paper, 41 

Broiled Venison Steaks, 40 

Brown .Beef Stew, 44 

Chestnut Stuffing, 39 

Cold Veal, 38 

Corned Beef, 43 

Cottage Pie, 44 

Drippings, 44 

Dumplings for Stews, 45 

Fillet of Mutton Chops, 41 

Fried Liver, 45 

Game, 39 

Gravy, 39 

Gravy for Roast Meat, 37 

Hamburg Steak, 45 

Hash, 43 

Hashed Corn Beef, 43 

Hash a la Francaise, 43 

How to Wash Meat, 36 

How to Dress Poultry, 38 

Liver au Lit, 45 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter, 40 

Minced Meat on Toast, 44 

Mutton Chops or Veal Cutlets Breaded, 

41 

Roast Fowl, 38 
Roasting Meats, 37 
Saddle of Venison, Larded, 39 
Sauteing or Pan Frying, 41 
Scalloped Mutton, 44 
Stuffing, 39 
Veal, 37 
Venison, 40 



PASTRY 

Banana Pie, 121 

Cheese Biscuits, 118 

Cheese Sticks, 118 

Cheese Sticks, No. 2, 118 

Custard Pie, 121 

Lemon Pie, 120 

Lemon Filling (for tarts), 121 

Marlborouph Pie, 119 

Meringue, 120 

Mince Pie, 120 

Patties 119 

Pie Plant, or Rhubarb Pie, 121 

Puff Paste, 117 

Rough Puff Paste, 117 

Short Pie Crust, 118 

Sliced Apple Pie, 119 

Tarts, 119 

Vol au Vent, 119 

Green Tomato Sweet Pickled, 130 
Grape Catsup, 1:15 
Pickled Cucumbers, 134 
Pickled Peaches, 134 
Pickled Onions, 135 
Piccalilli, 135 



IMiKX 



149 



Plum Catsup, 135 
Sweet Fig Pickles, 136 
Sweet Pickled Watermelon. 
Tomato Catsup. 1 '',<'< 



PUDDINCS 
Amber, 95 
Apple Pot Pie, 94 
Apple Snowballs, 92 
Banana, 94 
Batter, :>:', 
Hatter No. 2,93 
Bird's-Nest, 93 
Boiled Apple Dumplings, :i 
Bread, 94 
champlain, '.i.~> 
Chantilly, 91 
English Plum, 93 
German, '.4 
Cinder Suet, 95 
(irnham Flour, % 
Pineapple, 96 
Plain Hread, 93 
Plain Suet, 95 
Prune Souffle, 92 
Roly Poly, '.r, 
Rum Omelette 92 
Snow Halls, HI 
Vanilla SoiitHe, 92 
Yorkshire Puddiim for Roast Jieef. W 



Prj)inN<; s VUCES 
Brandy, Itf.i 
Caramel, 109 
Cream, 109 
Hard, 110 
I-einon, 109 
Madeira or Rum, 109 
Molasses, 110 
Snowdrift, 110 
Whipped Strawberry, 110 



SAUCES 

Anchovy and Shrimp, 4* 

Bechamel or Whit.-. I.; 

Bechamel, Yellow, I'.' 

Bernaise, 49 

Bread Sauce for Game, 48 

Brown, I'.i 

Brown Mushroom, 47 

Celery, 47 

Cream Mushroom, 47 

Currant Jelly, 48 

Drawn Butter, If. 

-.47 

Hollandaise. 46 
Madeira or Port Wine, 1* 
Oyster. 17 
Plquante,48 
Robert. 47 
Spanish, iv !'> 
Tomato, 17 



S U i KS WITH (til. 

Boiled Dressing. ::: 
French Dressing, :>1 
(ireen Salad Pressing, 52 
Mayonnaise Dressing, 52 
Remoullde, 51 
Sauce et Garniture, ,'rj 
Sauce Tartare, ~>t 



SOUPS 

Baked Crackers, L'I, 

Baked Crackers with Clieesi 

Bisque of Clams. 22 

Bisque of Crab, 25 

Black Bean, 24 

Bouquet, 20 

Cardinal, 26 

Celery, -Jt; 

Cheese Canopees, 2t! 

claret, 25 

Clearing for Consomme or Bouillon, 17 

Consomme or White Soup Stock, 17 

Cream of Lettuce, 22 

Cream of Rice, 22 

Crouton for Soup. 25 

Crouton Souffle, 26 

Dark Meat Stock, 17 

(iuinbo, 21 

Italian, 20 

Julienne, 18 

Lentil, 19 

Lobster Bisque, 23 

Macaroni and Vermicelli, IK 

Meat, 17 

Meat Glaze, 20 

Mixed Vegetable, 19 

Mock Bisque, 25 

Mock Turtle, 20 

Mullagatawney or Pepper Pot. ."J 

Noodles for Soup, 19 

Okra Gumbo, 27 

Ox Tail, ->0 

Potage a la Reine. 21 

Puree of <;r.-en Peas, etc., 21 

Puree of Spinach, 21 

I! ice. Tapioca and Barley, 18 

Royal Custard. 1* 

tout Pea. 19 

Tomato, 18 

Velvet, 24 



VEGKTABLEH 

A Southern Dish, fi9 
AsparagD- 

As|iarnKUs Salad, 77 
Artichokes. 74 
Baked Canlillo-.v 
Baked Tomatoes, 73 
Beets, 7J 

Boiled Onions, 7:i 
Boiled K ice. 75 

Clllihllfe. 71 

Carrots. Turnips, 72 
Chicken Salad, 75 
F.gg Plant. 7 1 
Fried Bananas. 71 



150 



INDEX 



Fried Cucumbers, 74 

French Potato in Brown Butter, 71 

Green Peas, 71 

Lettuce, 73 

Lettuce Salad, 75 

Lobster Salads, 76 

Mint Sauce for Lamb, 70 

Mushrooms, Stewed, 74 

Onions, Baked, 73 

Oyster Salad, 76 

Potato Boats, 68 

Potato Cakes, 70 

Potato Souffle, 70 

Potato Salad, 75 

Potatoes, Creamed, 68 

Potatoes, Boiled, 70 

Potatoes with Bacon, 69 



Potatoes, Escallope, 69 
Potatoes au Gratin, 69 
Potatoes Maitre d'Hotel, 68 
Potatoes Mashed, 70 
Potatoes, Lyonnaise, 68 
Potatoes, Rice, 70 
Potatoes, Saratoga, 71 
Potatoes, Scalloped, 69 
Rice a la Carolina, 74 
Spinach, 73 
String Beans, 72 
Shrimp or Crab Salad, 77 
Succotash, 72 
Stewed Cucumbers, 74 
Tomatoes, 74 
Tomato Salad, 75 




FOR COOKIN6 

A Camp Fire Is Good ^ 

A Wood or Coal Stove Is Better ~~^* 

But a 6AS STOVE Is Best 



GAS COOKING ^^SBSl^k GAS WATER 
STOVES ^gBJ HEATERS 




ASBESTOS ^TjWfc^SBI UGAS CLOTHES 

GAS GRATES j f 06 M DRYERS 



First Cost of Gas Cooking Stove is Moderate 
Running: Expense- $2.00 to $4.00 per Month 



LIGHT OB. 



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^iUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUf? 



LOLA MONTEZ GREME 




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Mrs. Nettie Harrison, America's Beauty Doctor 

26 Geary St., San Francisco, Cal. 



Mrs. Nettie Harrison Removes Superfluous Hair by the Electric Needle, Guaranteed Permanently 



Have a very complete Printing Plant 
Employing Sixty-four People 

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Sao FraQCi&CO PriQtiQg Co. 

JAS. A. PARISER, MANAGER 

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Lachman Building 



We print the " Californian 
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Employ our own staff of Artists 
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SPERRY FLOUR COMPANY. 

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Dr. Price's Cream Baking 
Powder. 



COSMOS CLUB, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 

February ist, 1892. 

I am using Dr. Price's Cream Baking Powder be- 
cause I consider it superior to any other brand on 
the market. It is a quick and a certain worker and 
gives us entire satisfaction. 

CHAS. RANDALL, 

Steward of the Cosmos Club. 



SUTTER CLUB, SACRAMENTO, CAL. 

April xoth, 1892. 

I am using Dr. Price's Cream Baking Powder and 
consider it one of the purest, strongest and most 
economical of the high class powders. 

I have made the usual grocer's tests for impur- 
ites and find it free from them and altogether whole- 
some. 

By comparison I find the leavening power is 
greater and it will therefore do more work for the 
money than any other powder I have used. 
Respectfully yours, 

H, LUDDEN, Steward Sutter Club. 
THE PALACE, ) 

" OCCIDENTAL, f San Francisco. 
" BALDWIN, J 

THE PORTLAND 
at Portland, Ore. 

THE RANIER 

at Seattle, Wash. all use 



POWDER. 




Home 



1221 O'FARRELL STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



Library, Employment Bureau, Del Sarte and Elocution Classes, Free to 
members of the Home. Concerts and Entertainments are given on the 
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Branch: 514 HOWARD STREET 

LUNCH SERVED EVERY DAY 

Millinery, Dressmaking, Sewing and Training Classes. Praise "and Social 
Meeting Thursday Evening. 






Ube Mine of tbe Elite 

UNEXCELLED FOR 

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USED AT ALL 



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FINE OLD TABLE HIKE? 

Zmfandel Claret, Riesling, Hock, Burgundy, 
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CABERNET BIyEND. The richest and 
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O. V. CHABUS. Possessed of all the 
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O. V. SATJTERNE. With the exact 
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Chateau d'Orleans and O. V. Chablis sold only 
in glass. 



ARPAD HARASZTHY & Co. 

GROWERS AND DEALERS 

53O Washington Street 
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



Toboggai) Brai)d 
SyrOp 




. . Absolutely Pure 

The above Maple Syrup obtained the only award at the 
last MECHANICS FAIR. Prof. Rising, State Analyist, vouches 
for its purity, and $1000.00 reward is offered for any impuri- 
ties found in the syrup. 





Is the Pripcc 

ooOf 




w 



w 



Is Sparkling, natural. Pure 



Its richness in NATURAL Carbonic Acid 
Gas; its Delicious, Clean and 1'nre Refresh- 
ing Taste; its Sparkling Sharpness and its 
readiness to Assimilate with white and red 
wine, champagne, brandy and whiskey, 
renders it the most 



Perfect of Table Waters 

A Tonic to tin- Weak. Heath to Indiires- i 
tion. A. Sure Care for Dynpepd*. A Health- V 

fill Hesera^.- 1'ure Natural I.MS. Bffer- < ' A NATA SOLA LKMONAUR is the Perfection 
vesces like Champagne. of Luxurious Drink. 

G. H. T. JACKSON, LESSEE 



WJBNDBLL EASTON GKO. W. FBINK GEO. EASTON 

President Vice-President Secretary 



Easton, Eldridge & Co. 



REAL ESTATE AGENTS 



AND AUCTIONEERS 

HOUSE AND INSURANCE BROKERS 

OFFICE AND SALESROOM 

638 MARKET STREET 

Opposite Palace Hotel SAN FRANCISCO, GAL. 

Regular Auction Sale Day, Tuesday 



. . 



Came I line 



For the improvement and preservation 
of the Complexion. The only reliable 
article. .'. Sanctioned by the medical 
profession as absolute!}?- free from in- 
jurious ingredients. ..... 

For sale Agreeable, Effective 

By All 

Drugget? 



1843 THE BEST COA\PAfiY 1892 

The Best Company is the Company that does the Most Good 



The Mutual Life Insurance Co, 



OF NEW YORK 

A. McCURDY, President 

Since its organization in 1843, up to January 1st, 1892, has received in 

premiums... ............ $418.834.675 

And has returned to Its members ................................................ J23 447 859 

Nearly 78 per cent of the whole amount of premiums received. It 

now holds in trust for its Policy-holders upwards of ..................... 165)000,000 

Cash assets, securely invested, to carry out faithfully all its contracts. 

The above it a wonderful stewardship, as shown by sworn statements made to the Insurance departments of the 

several States. 

This Company's New Dixtribution Policy is the most Liberal 
ever issued by any Life Insurance Company _ . _ . _ . 

MUTUAL LIFE CONSOLS o o o 

The Consol Policy recently announced by the Mutual Life Insurance Company 
of New York combines more adTantages, with fewer restrictions, than any Invest- 
ment insurance contract ever offered. It consolidates Insurance, Endowment, 
Investment, Annual Income. No other company offers this policy. Apply to 
Company's Authorized Agents for details. 

A. B. FORBES 

General Agent for Pacific Coast 
4-O1 CALIFORNIA STREET SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



& CO. 

Wlarebouse 

401 & 403 Sansome St. 



Cor. Sacramento 5t. 3&n Francisco, 

Keep a Full Line of All Kinds of Printing and Wrapping Papers 

Miss Kate Plunk:ett= 



Feip&le Employment Bureau 

424 Sutter Street, Between Stockton and Powell, San Francisco, Cal. 

The Best of Female Help Furnished on Short Notice 

Special Attention Paid to Country Or<!-r-. 
TELEPHONE No. 5472. Sutter and Powell St. cars pass the door 



CHILION BEACH 



. . IMPORTER OF 



107 MONTGOMERY STRSST 

OFF. OCCIDENTAL HOTEL, San Francisco 

Monograms and Crests artistically Designed and Engraved. New Books and the very 
Latest Styles of Stationery. Special attention given to Wedding and Visiting Cards. A 
Full Line of Birthday Cards always in stock. Christmas, New Year and Easter Cards in 
their season. Juvenile Books in great variety. We keep in Stock Marcus Ward's Cele- 
brated Irish Linen Papers and Envelopes. 

GHIRKRPEL.L.1'S 

- ^ Cbocoktes Mjd Gorm? 

The Standard of Excellence 

BEST MATERIALS STRICTLY PURE