Skip to main content

Full text of "Publications"

See other formats 


Santee  & 


X 


\     ,    ~ 

^      0\ . 


^ 


Society 


THE    EXECUTIVE. 

President. 
THE  EARL  OF  ROSEBERY,  LL.D. 

Chairman  of  Council. 

DAVID  MASSON,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  English  Literature, 
Edinburgh  University. 

Council. 

GEORGE  BURNETT,  LL.D.,  Lyon-King-of-Arms. 

J.  T.  CLARK,  Keeper  of  the  Advocates'  Library. 

THOMAS  DICKSON,  LL.D.,  Curator  of  the  Historical  Depart- 
ment, Register  House. 

Right  Rev.  JOHN  DOWDEN,  D.D.,  Bishop  of  Edinburgh. 

J.  KIRKPATRICK,  LL.B.,  Professor  of  History,  Edinburgh 
University. 

/ENEAS  J.  G.  MACKAY,  LL.D.,  Sheriff  of  Fife. 

Sir  ARTHUR  MITCHELL,  K.C.B.,  M.D.,  LL.D. 

G.  W.  T.  OMOND,  Advocate. 

JOHN  RUSSELL,  Esq. 

W.  F.  SKENE,  D.C.L.,  LL.D.,  Historiographer  -  Royal  for 
Scotland. 

Rev.  MALCOLM  C.  TAYLOR,  D.D.,  Professor  of  Divinity  and 
Church  History,  Edinburgh  University. 

J.  MAITLAND  THOMSON,  Advocate. 

Corresponding  Members  of  the  Council. 

OSMUND  AIRY,  Esq.,  Birmingham ;  Very  Rev.  J.  CUNNINGHAM, 
D.D.,  Principal  of  St.  Mary's  College,  St.  Andrews  ;  Professor 
GEORGE  GRUB,  LL.D.,  Aberdeen;  Rev.  A.  W.  C.  HALLEN, 
Alloa ;  Rev.  W.  D.  MACRAY,  Oxford ;  DAVID  M.  MAIN,  Esq., 
Doune ;  Professor  A.  F.  MITCHELL,  D.D.,  St.  Andrews ; 
Professor  W.  ROBERTSON  SMITH,  Cambridge ;  Rev.  Dr.  SPROTT, 
North  Berwick ;  Professor  J.  VEITCH,  LL.D.,  Glasgow. 

Hon.  Treasurer. 
J.  J.  REID,  B.A.,  Advocate,  Queen's  Remembrancer. 

Hon.  Secretary. 
T.  G.  LAW,  Librarian,  Signet  Library. 


RULES. 

1.  The  object  of  the  Society  is  the  discovery  and  printing,, 
under  selected  editorship,  of  unpublished  documents  illustrative 
of  the  civil,  religious,  and  social  history  of  Scotland. 

2.  The  number  of  Members  of  the  Society  shall  be  limited 
to  400. 

3.  The  affairs  of  the  Society  shall  be  managed  by  a  Council 
consisting  of  a  Chairman,   Treasurer,  Secretary,   and   twelve 
elected  Members,  five  to  make  a  quorum.     Three  of  the  twelve 
elected  members  shall  retire  annually  by  ballot,  but  they  shall 
be  eligible  for  re-election. 

4.  The  Annual  Subscription    to  the   Society  shall  be  One 
Guinea.    The   publications  of  the  Society   shall  not   be  de- 
livered to  any  Member  whose  Subscription  is  in  arrear,  and 
no  Member  shall  be  permitted  to  receive  more  than  one  copy 
of  the  Society's  publications. 

5.  The  Society  shall  undertake  the  issue  of  its  own  publica- 
tions, i.e.  without  the  intervention  of  a  publisher  or  any  other 
paid  agent. 

6.  The  Society  will  issue  yearly  two  octavo  volumes  of  about 
320  pages  each. 

7.  An  Annual  General  Meeting  of  the  Society  shall  be  held 
on  the  last  Tuesday  in  October. 

8.  Two  stated  Meetings  of  the  Council  shall  be  held  each 
year,  one  on  the   last  Tuesday  of    May,   the   other  on   the 
Tuesday  preceding  the  day  upon  which  the  Annual  General 
Meeting  shall  be  held.     The  Secretary,  on  the  request  of  three 
Members  of  the  Council,  shall  call  a  special  meeting  of  the 
Council. 


RULES.  3 

9.  Editors  shall  receive  20  copies  of  each  volume  they  edit 
for  the  Society. 

10.  The  Annual  Balance-Sheet,  Rules,  and  List  of  Members 
shall  be  printed. 

11.  No  alteration  shall  be  made  in  these  Rules  except  at  a 
General  Meeting  of  the  Society.     A  fortnight's  notice  of  any 
alteration  to  be  proposed  shall  be  given  to  the  Members  of  the 
Council. 


PUBLICATIONS. 


Works  already  Issued,  1887. 

1.  BISHOP  POCOCKE'S  TOURS  IN  SCOTLAND,  1747-1760.     Edited  by 

D.  W.  KEMP. 

2.  DIARY  OK  CUNNINGHAM  OF  CRAIGENDS,   1673-1 680.     Edited  by 

the  Rev.  JAMES  DODDS,  D.D. 


Works  in  Preparation. 

PANURGI  PHILO-CABALLI  SCOTI  GRAMEIDOS  LIBRI  SEX. — THE  GRAMIAD: 
An  heroic  poem  descriptive  of  the  Campaign  of  Viscount 
Dundee  in  1689,  by  JAMES  PHILIP  of  Almerieclose.  Edited 
with  Notes  by  the  Rev.  CANON  MURDOCH. 

THE  REGISTER  OF  THE  KIRK  SESSION  OF  ST.  ANDREWS.  Part  i. 
1559-1582.  Edited  by  D.  HAY  FLEMING. 

DIARY  OF  THE  REV.  JOHN  MILL,  Minister  of  Dunrossness,  in  Shet- 
land, 1742-1805.  Edited  by  GILBERT  GOUDIE,  F.S.A.  Scot. 

A  NARRATIVE  OF  MR.  JAMES  NIMMO,  A  COVENANTER,  1654-1708. 
Edited  by  W.  G.  SCOTT  MONCRIEFF,  Advocate. 


PUBLICATIONS 

OF   THE 

SCOTTISH   HISTORY  SOCIETY 

VOLUME  I. 

POCOCKE'S    TOURS 


OCTOBER  1887 


THE   RIGHT  REV.  R|CHARD  POCOCKE,  D.D. 
LORD  BISHOP  OF  MEATH 


TOURS   IN   SCOTLAND 


1747,  1750,  1760 

BY 

RICHARD    POCOCKE 

BISHOP  OF  MEATH 

FROM    THE    ORIGINAL   MS.    AND    DRAWINGS    IN 
THE  BRITISH   MUSEUM 

Edited  with  a  Biographical  Sketch  of  the  Author  by 
DANIEL  WILLIAM   KEMP 


EDINBURGH 

Printed  at  the  University  Press  by  T.  and  A.  CONSTABLE, 

for  the  Scottish  History  Society 

1887 


750 

V.I 


PREFATORY  NOTE. 

WHEN  the  Scottish  History  Society  was  formed  last  year  I  was 
preparing  for  the  press  an  inedited  account  of  Bishop  Pococke's 
tour  in  Sutherland,  from  a  manuscript  which  I  found  in  the 
Library  of  the  British  Museum. 

The  Council  of  the  Society,  recognising  in  Dr.  Pococke's 
journal  of  his  travels  in  Scotland  an  interesting  contribution 
to  our  knowledge  of  the  country  during  the  eighteenth  century, 
agreed  to  publish  all  the  Scottish  portion  of  the  MS.  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Society,  and  invited  me  to  act  as  editor.  I 
felt  some  misgivings  in  undertaking  a  work  covering  so  wide 
a  field  of  Scottish  topography,  to  which  I  could  only  devote 
leisure  hours  at  the  close  of  a  busy  day.  But  my  labours 
have  been  greatly  facilitated  by  the  assistance  of  a  number 
of  gentlemen  who  have  kindly  verified  for  me  local  questions,, 
and  supplied  notes.  To  these  I  tender  my  best  thanks.  Their 
number  must  be  my  apology  for  not  recording  individually 
their  many  and  valuable  services. 

The  text  of  the  MS.,  in  its  orthography  and  diction,  has  been 
carefully  adhered  to ;  and  the  drawings,  notwithstanding  their 
frequent  disregard  of  perspective  and  proportion,  have  been 
faithfully,  if  roughly,  reproduced. 


D.  WILLIAM  KEMP. 


TRINITY, 
EDINBURGH,  October  1887. 


CONTENTS. 

PAGES 

PREFATORY  NOTE,  .  .....         v-vi 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS,         ....  xxvii-xxix 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH — 

Richard  Pococke  born  in  Southampton,  1704 — His 
father's  death,  1710 — He  removes  to  the  parsonage 
of  his  grandfather,  the  Rev.  Isaac  Milles,  by  whom  he 
is  educated,  and  where  he  resides  until  Mr.  Milles's 
death  in  1720 — Enters  Corpus  Christi  College  in 
1722 — Ordained  Precentor  of  Lismore  1725 — Re- 
ceives Degrees  of  M.A.  and  LL.B.  in  1731,  and  of 
LL.D.  1 733 — Travels  on  Continent  with  Dean  Milles 
from  1733  to  1736— Travels  in  Egypt  and  the  East, 
1737  to  1742 — Publishes  first  volume,  A  Description  of 
the  East :  Observations  on  Egypt,  1743 — Visits  Midland 
Counties  of  England — Made  Precentor  of  Waterford, 
1744 — Publishes  second  volume,  Observations  on 
Palestine  or  the  Holy  Land,  Syria,  Mesopotamia, 
Cyprus,  and  Candia,  1745 — Appointed  Domestic 
Chaplain  to  Lord-Lieutenant  of  Ireland — Opinions 
of  Gibbon,  Pinkerton,  Dibdin,  Jablonski,  Stevenson, 
Mant  on  his  writings — Prices  of  his  volumes  at 
auction  sales — Reprints  and  references  published  in 
German,  French,  and  English — Richard  Cumber- 
land's opinion  of  him  disproved — Receives  patent  as 
Archdeacon  of  Dublin,  1745 — Letters  to  Dr.  Stukeley 
— Letters  from  Da  Costa — First  visit  to  Scotland, 
1747 — Second  visit,  1750 — Publishes  Inscriptionum 
Antiquarum  Grace.,  1752 — Letter  to  Dr.  Ducarel — 
Preferred  to  the  Bishopric  of  Ossory — Promotes 


viii  CONTENTS. 

PAGES 

restoration  of  St.  Canice's  Cathedral,  Kilkenny — His 
inscription  commemorative   of  the   restoration — Re- 
places stained  glass  in  Cathedral  window — Presents 
a  rich  communion-table  cover,  and  a  painting  of  a 
'  Glory' — Replaces    old     monuments,    and     collects 
inscriptions — Communicates  An  Account  of  some  Anti- 
quities found  in  Ireland  to   the   London    Society  of 
Antiquaries,    1757 — Visits    Scotland    for    the    third 
time,  journeying  from  Portpatrick  to  the  Orkneys — 
Receives  the  Freedom  of  Aberdeen,  Glasgow,  Perth, 
Lanark,  Forres,  Nairn,  and  Dornoch — Letter  to  the 
Duke  of  Athole — Offers  Fifty  Guineas   for   Queen 
Anne's  bed,  in  Dunfermline — Preaches  on  behalf  of 
the     Magdalen     House     Charity,    London,     1761  — 
Preaches  on  behalf  of  Protestant   Schools'   Society, 
Dublin,    1762 — Kilkenny    floods,  1760 — Inquiries  as 
to  second  sight — Retires  to  his  Chaplain's  parsonage 
for  literary  labours — Encourages  the  Rev.  M.  Arch- 
dall  in  the  preparation  of  his  Monasticon — Founds  a 
weaving-school,  subsequently  known  as  '  The  Pococke 
College' — His  portraits — Travels  in  England,  1764 — 
Preferred   to   the  Bishopric   of  Meath,   1765 — Dies 
same  year — Interred  in  Bishop  Montgomery's  tomb, 
Ardbraccan — Illiterate  inscription  on  tomb — Letter 
from  Bishop  of  Carlisle  to  Dr.  Ducarel — Elaborate 
monumental  inscription  in  St.   Canice's — Monument 
in  Chamounix,  Switzerland — His  first  will — Codicil, 
or  later   will — His    MSS.  bequeathed   to   the   British 
Museum — Books,  coins,  fossils,  etc.,  sold  by  auction 
— Letter  from  Mr.  Walker  to  Mr.  Gough — Evidences 
that   Thomas    Pennant,   the   traveller,   was    familiar 
with  Dr.  Pococke's  writings  relating  to  Scotland,        xxxi-lxix 

LETTER  I. 

Richmond — Preaches  for  Mr.  Blackbourne — Mr.  York's 
improvements  —  Mr.  Robinson  at  Holy  Island — 
Dines  at  Berwick — A  sliving  Scot — Laird  of  Ay  ton 


CONTENTS.  ix 

PAGES 

— Old  Cambus  —  Dunbar  —  Dines  at  Beltonford — 
Prestonpans  —  Edinburgh — Dr.  Grant,  Episcopal 
Minister  —  Preaches  —  Inchkeith  and  Inchcolm  — 
Musselburgh  and  Dalkeith — Advocates'  Library — 
Holyrood  and  Castle — Roslin  Chapel — Hawthornden 
— Baron  Clerk — Lord  Provost  Drummond — College 
Library  — Visits  Lord  and  Lady  Hopetoun — Descrip- 
tion of  breakfast — Stirling  Castle — Glasgow  Cathe- 
dral— Receives  Freedom  of  Glasgow — Dines  with 
Professors  —  Kilmarnock — Sells  his  horse  —  Castle 
Kennedy — Lord  Stair's  improvements — Portpatrick 
— Sails  to  Donaghadee— Reaches  Dublin,  .  .  1-5 

LETTER  II. 

Birrens — Roman  inscription — Camp  of  Burnswork — Eccle- 
fechan — Hoddam  Castle — Dumfries — St.  Michael's 
Church — Bridge  over  Nith — Tobacco  trade — Lin- 
cluden  Abbey — Holywood  Abbey — New  Abbey — 
Markland  —  Drumlanrig  Castle — Tibber's  Castle — 
Roman  road,  ......  6-10 

LETTER  III. 

Portpatrick  —  Shipping  horses  —  Packet  boat — Herring- 
fishing,  deal  boats  —  Castle  Kennedy  —  Glenluce 
Abbey — Sir  Thomas  Hay — Sir  William  Maxwell — 
Whithorn  Priory — Leucopibia — Candida  Casa — The 
Priory  Font — St.  Peter's  Cross — Isle  of  Whithorn — 
Wigtown  Church — Galloway  cattle,  .  .  .  11-19 

LETTER  IV. 

Newton-Stewart  —  Garlais  Castle  —  The  Cairnsmuirs — 
Cardonness  Castle  —  Kirkcudbright  —  Dundrennan 
Abbey — Munches — Mr.  John  Maxwell — Wild  cats — 
Kirkgunzeon — New  Abbey — Dumfries — Caerlaverock 
Castle — Comlongon,  .....  19-31 


x  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  V. 

PAGES 

Ruthwell  Church— Ruthwell  Cross— Walker's  Monument 
— Hoddam  Castle — Fragment  of  sculpture;  winged 
figure — Roman  camp — Repentance  Tower,  and  legend 
— Annan — Robert  Bruce's  Castle — Inscription  (Robert 
de  Brvs,  etc.) — Clochmaben  Stone,  .  .  .  32-35 

LETTER  VI. 

Gretna  Green  Church — River  Esk — Guide  necessary — 
Dangerous  crossing — Penrith — Carts  with  wooden 
wheels  and  axles,  .....  36 

LETTER  VII. 

Ecclefechan  —  Middlebie  —  Castlemilk  —  Double  boat — 
Lockerbie — Lochmaben — Roman  works — Tower  of 
Lochwood,  ......  37-38 

LETTER  VIII. 

Moffat — Old  Spa — Bishop  Whiteford's  daughter — Hart- 
fell  Spa — John  Williamson — Copper  mines — Marquis 
of  Annandale's  tub — Source  of  Annan,  Clyde,  and 
Tweed  —  Leadhills  —  Miners'  houses  —  Lead  and 
Copper — Smelting  hearths — Susannah  Mine — Pig- 
lead  to  Leith  for  shipment  to  Holland — Mr.  Archi- 
bald Stirling  of  Garden — Larch  trees,  .  .  39-42 

LETTER  IX. 

Glengonar  river  gold — Carmichael — Lanark — St.  Kenti- 
gern's  Church — Monastery — Carstairs — Roman  work 
— Antiquities  found — Falls  of  Clyde — Bonnington — 
Made  Burgess  of  Lanark — Cadzow  Castle — Hamilton 
Palace— Hamilton  Church— Bothwell  Church,  .  43-48 


CONTENTS.  xi 

LETTER  X. 

PAGES 

Gl asgow — Streets — Merchants'  houses — Markets — The 
Green — Cathedral — Episcopal  Chapel  (St.  Andrew's) 
— Preaches  and  confirms — Approves  of  strict  Sabbath 
observance — Exports,  imports,  and  manufactures — 
University — Roman  inscription,  .  .  .  49-53 

LETTER  XI. 

Govan — King's  Inch — Paisley — Monastery — Tradition  of 
King  Robert  ii.'s  birth — Abbey  Church — Monuments 
— The  last  Abbot — Lord  Claud  Hamilton — Beith — 
Kilwinning  Abbey  —  Irvine  —  Extensive  trade  — 
Monastery — Seagate  Castle — Earl  of  Eglinton — Kil- 
marnock — Thatched  houses — Carpet  manufacture — 
Fast  day — Water  of  Ayr  stones — Dean  Castle — Cath- 
cart,  .......  53-60 

LETTER  XII. 

Old  Kilpatrick — New  Kilpatrick — Roman  wall — St.  Pat- 
rick— Dunglass  Castle — Dumbarton — Early  settle- 
ment— The  Castle — Church  (St.  Patrick's) — Leven- 
side — Bonhill — Loch  Lomond — The  islands — Castle 
of  Luss — Rossdhu — Luss  Church — Tarbet — Inscrip- 
tion on  rock — Inveruglass — Tumulus — Eilean  Vhou 
— Laird  of  Macfarlane — Inversnaid — Loch  Slowie — 
Tyndrum — Lead  mines,  ....  60-64 

LETTER  XIII. 

New  Tarbet — Loch  Long — Inscription  on  seat — Glencroe 
— Cairndow — Inveraray — The  Castle — The  Cross — 
Mr.  Cumin's  curious  clock — St.  Catherine's  Stone,  .  64-67 

LETTER  XIV. 

Inverary  Park — Roe  deer — Loch  Awe — Kilchurn  Castle 
— Ardchonal  Castle — The  Ferry — Ben  Cruachan — 


xii  CONTENTS. 

PAGES 

Loch  Etive — Ardchattan — Mr.  Campbell's  house — 
Old  Church — Beregonium — Dun  Macsniachan — Loch- 
nell  House — Sir  Duncan  Campbell — Kerrera— Oban 
— Scarba — Coryvreckan — Colonsay  Abbey — Easdale 
slate  quarries — Hermit's  garden,  Lochnell — Bos 
Primigenius  bones  from  Lismore — Service  tree,  .  67-72 

LETTER  XV. 

Horses  sent  to  Fort  William — Dunstaffnage — Reputed 
antiquity — Antique  ivory  chessman — Old  Church — 
Echo  from  rocks — Dunolly  Castle — Oban  custom- 
house— Mull — Small  horses ;  never  shod,  value  £4- — 
Magnetic  rock — Druid  Temple,  Rossal — Rev.  Neil 
Macleod — Bunessan — Ferry  Port — Basaltic  rocks,  .  72-77 

LETTER  XVI. 

lona— Mr.  Campbell,  Bailiff  of  Tiree — St.  Columba — Bene- 
dictine Monastery — Jurisdiction — The  Cathedral — 
The  Altar — Monuments:  Macfingone's ;  Macdonald's; 
Maclennan's  ;  Maclean's — The  Maelpatrick  Stone — 
Reilig  Ourain — Clach  an  Diesart — Nunnery — Prior- 
ess's tomb  —  Burial-place  —  Angels'  Hill  —  Horse 
races  :  ancient  customs — Port  na  Churaich — Pebbles 
— Population  of  lona — Population  of  Tyree — Two- 
handed  sword  and  helmet — Manners  and  hospitality 
of  the  Islanders — Customs  at  burials — Second-sight — 
Rev.  John  Macpherson's  Latin  poems — Population  of 
Mull — Charnel-root  for  whisky-drinkers,  .  .  78-89 

LETTER  XVII. 

Lismore— Whales — St.  Moluag — The  Church — Tirefoor 
Broch — Population  of  the  Island — Airds — Abund- 
ance of  Spinage — Leg  and  thigh  bones  of  the  Bos 
Primigenius — Norwegian  oval  bowl-shaped  brooch 
from  Isle  of  Lingay — Western  Islands — St.  Kilda,  .  90-94 


CONTENTS. 


Xlll 


LETTER  XVIII. 

White  Cairn,  Port  na  Crois — Picts'  houses — Tigh  na 
Stalcaire,  the  hunting  lodge  of  James  iv. — Leter- 
shuna,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Stewarts  of 
Appin — High  stone  at  Duror — Factor  shot  for 
evicting  tenants — Hill  resembling  Mount  Tabor — 
Massacre  of  Glencoe — Glenfmnan,  where  the  Pre- 
tender first  set  up  his  Standard,  1745 — Fort- 
William  fortress — Lochaber — Story  of  Macbeth,  . 


95-98 


LETTER  XIX. 

Inverlochy  Castle — Ben  Nevis — Achnacarry,  site  of 
Lochiel's  house — Invergarry  Castle — Stone  circle 
—  Copper  mines  —  Fort  Augustus  —  Loch  Ness 
'  Highland  Galley ' — Sail  down  Loch  Ness  with 
Governor  Trapaud — Glen  Moriston — Linen-weav- 
ing school — Fall  of  Foyers — General's  hut — Castle 
Urquhart — Driven  to  Inverness — Druid  Temple — 
Stone  circles,  ..... 


99-102 


LETTER  XX. 

Inverness — Salted  Salmon  Trade — Dominican  Monastery 
— The  Castle — Cromwell's  Fort — Fort  George,  de 
signed  by  Colonel  Skinner — Stone  circles — Cullo- 
den  House — Battle  of  Culloden — Position  of  High- 
land army — The  graves  of  the  soldiers, 


103-108 


LETTER  XXI. 

Beauly — Dingwall — The  Church — The  Earl  of  Cromarty's 
Obelisk— Strathpeffer— Castle  Leod— Foulis— Cul- 
cairn — Coal  in  the  mountains — Burial  urn  and  spear- 
head— Capercaillie,  .... 


108-110 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XXII. 

PAGES 

Pict's  House — Stone  circle — Shell-beds — Dunalishaig — 
Strathkyle — Rosehall  House — Cassley  Falls— Dun 
Achriess — Shells  found  on  summit  of  Scurr  na  La- 
paich — MacLeod  of  Assynt's  betrayal  of  Montrose,  111-115 

LETTER  XXIII. 

Rosehall — Durcha  Broch — Loch  Shin — Sea-gulls'  nests 
— Highland  cabin — Highland  manners  and  hospi- 
tality— Making  Frau  from  Whey — Severe  winter, 
1738 — Numerous  swans — Black -throated  Diver — 
Gentlewoman  followed  by  maid — Brochs  common 
— Minister  of  Lairg,  Mr.  Mackay — Entertained 
with  cake  and  wine — Earl  of  Sutherland's  forest., 
Clibrec — Drinking  health  in  Whey — Gaelic  names 
for  red  deer — Minced  Collop  of  Venison — No  rats,  115-120 

LETTER  XXIV. 

Loch  Meadie — Mudale  to  Strathmore — A  thousand  red 
deer  in  Lord  Reay's  forest — Proposed  roads — 
Dun-Dornadilla,  outside  and  inside  views — Loch 
Erriboll— Farout  Head,  ....  120-124 

LETTER  XXV. 

Durness — Seath  fishing — Hart  killed  by  an  eagle — 
Islands  Rona  and  Soulisgeir — Seals  and  Solan 
Geese — Adders  killed  and  eaten  by  goats — The 
Cave  of  Smoo — Hardiness  of  the  inhabitants — 
Hospitality  and  politeness — Pension  to  Lord  Reay,  124-128 

LETTER  XXVI. 

Inverhope — Large  salmon  weir — The  Moine — Bay  of 
Tongue — Story  of  the  capture  of  the  French  Sloop 
1  Hazard ' — House  of  Tongue,  the  Master  of 


CONTENTS.  xv 

PAGES 

Reay's  residence — Dun  Varrich — Ben  Loaghal — 

Entertained   by    Captain  Mackay — Soft   sands   of 

Farr  Bay — Farr  Church  and  Ancient  Cross — Tin 

ore — Dines  with  the  Rev.  George  Munro  of  Farr —  - 

Captain    Mackay   of    Strathy — Lord    Sutherland's 

Highlanders  —  Bighouse  —  Ancient      sepulchre  — 

Pict's  house,  .....      129-133 

LETTER  XXVII. 

Mr.  Innes,  Sandside — Pict's  house,  Giesse — Entertained 
by  Mr.  Murray  of  Pennyland — Crosses  to  Orkney 
from  Thurso — Hoy  Walls — Story  of  eagle  and  child 
— Pict's  house — Dwarfiestone- — Circular  Chapel  at 
Orphir — Imports  and  exports  at  Stromness — Small 
pigs — Shearing  and  marking  sheep — The  Snow 
Bird,  the  Chack,  etc.,  ....  133-140 

LETTER  XXVIII. 

Stennis — Large  and  smaller  Stone  Circles — The  Stone 
of  Odin — Stennis  Church — Stennis  Loch — Linen- 
weaving  and  bleaching,  ....  140-144 

LETTER  XXIX. 

Kirkwall — Population — Seath,  etc.,  fisheries — St.  Mag- 
nus' Cathedral  and  Palace — The  Earl  of  Orkney's 
Arms  and  Inscription,  1593 — Church  offertory 
lates —  Cathedral  bells — Kirkwall  Castle — Crom- 
well's Fort — Barrows — Old  Castle  on  Westray — 
Offered  the  Freedom  of  Kirkwall,  .  .  .  145-150 

LETTER  XXX. 

Graemeshall,  Mr.  Graham's  —  Captain  Moodie,  Mel- 
setter — Story  of  Commodore  Moodie — Population 
of  Orkney  and  Shetland — Shell-fish,  large  quanti- 
ties— Fair  Isle — Shetland — Iceland — Faroe  Islands,  151-155 

6 


xvi  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XXXI. 

PAGES 

Sails  to  Ratter,  Caithness — Sir  James  Sinclair — John- 
o'-Groat's  House — Stroma  and  Swona  Islands  — 
Pict's  house,  ...  .  .  .  155-158 

LETTER  XXXII. 

Murkle,  Earl  of  Caithness — Sir  Patrick  Dunbar — Storage 
of  corn — Thatching  houses — Ackergill  Tower — 
The  ruins  of  Castles  Girnigoe  and  Sinclair — Wick 
Church— Lybster— Castle  of  Dunbeath,  .  .  158-163 

LETTER  XXXIII. 

The  Ord — Berriedale — Navidale — Helmsdale — Minister 
of  Loth,  Mr.  MacCulloch — Picts'  Houses,  Uagbeg 
and  Uagmore — Fossils  in-  limestone — Caves  in  sea- 
cliif — Dunrobiii  Castle — Fishers — Picts'  Castles — 
Ancient  sea  margins — Dornoch — Earl's  Cross — 
The  Cathedral — The  Palace — Receives  the  freedom 
of  the  Burgh— Cyder  Hall— Skibo  Castle— Mr. 
Mackay,  M.P. — Invercarron,  .  .  .  1 63-1 69 

LETTER  XXXIV. 

Tain — Offered  Freedom  of  Burgh — St.  Duthus'  Church 
— Abbey  of  Fearn — Abbot's  monument — Church 
roof  fell  in,  1742 — Story  of  Minister's  escape  —  Mr. 
MacLeod  of  Geanies — Mr.  MacLeod  of  Cadboll — 
Large  Collection  of  Coins — Remarkable  earthen 
pyramid — Monument  at  Shandwick — Shell  bed 
near  Ankerville — Cromarty  House,  Tarbet — Balna- 
gown  Castle — Resemblance  of  Cromarty  headland 
to  Mount  Olivet,  .  ...  169-176 


CONTENTS.  xvii 

LETTER  XXXV. 

PAGES 

Castle  Craig — Sir  Harry  Munro  of  Foulis — Katharine 
Mackenzie,  aged  118 — Allt  graunda;  the  ugly 
burn — Pea  and  bean  bread — Beauly  Priory — 
Monument  to  Lord  Lovat  in  Kirkhill  Church — 
The  Fraser  Sanskrit,  etc.,  MSS. — Fortrose  Church,  .  176-181 

LETTER  XXXVI. 

Mr.  Rose  of  Kilravock — Cawdor  Castle — Tradition  re- 
garding hawthorn  tree — Receives  Freedom  of  Nairn 
— Darnaway  Castle — Oak  chair  in  hall — Receives 
Freedom  of  Forres — Forres  Pillar — Abbey  of  Kin- 
loss — Burghead — Spynie  Cathedral  and  Palace,  .  181-187 

LETTER  XXXVII. 

Elgin — Population —  Manufactures — The  Cathedral — 
Monasteries — Chapels — Thunderton  House — Plus- 
cardine — Birnie  Church,  .  .  .  .188-191 

LETTER  XXXVIII. 

Urquhart  Church — Innes  House — Soldiers  crossing  the 
Spey  in  flood — Fochabers — Salmon  fishery — Duke 
of  Gordon's  tenants  —  Cullen  —  Beacon  hills — 
Mounts  at  Urquhart  for  calling  hawks — Stone 
circles — Earl  of  Findlater's  pictures  —  Portsoy — 
Scotch  serpentine  —  Banff  —  Manufactures  and 
fishery  —  Population  —  Lord  Deskford's  house — 
Earl  of  Fife — Convent — Sea-caves — Forglen,  .  191-196 

LETTER  XXXIX. 

Turriff — Episcopal  Chapel — New  Deer — Abbey  of  Deer 
— Pitfour — Peterhead — The  harbour — The  Spa — 
Trade  and  manufactures — Fisheries — Slain' s  Castle 
— The  Bullers  of  Buchan — Cave  with  stalactites — 
Red  jasper— Petrified  egg,  .  .  .  .  196-198 


xviii  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XL. 

Ellon— Udny  Castle— Old  Meldrum— Stocking-making 
— Kintore — Kenmay,  the  seat  of  the  Burnetts — 
Monymusk — Sir  Archibald  Grant's  improvements 
— Bennochie — Cairn  William — Tap  o'  Noth  vitri- 
fied fort — Cairngorm  crystals — Monymusk  Church 
— Aberdeen — City  burnt — St.  Nicholas'  Church — 
Other  Churches — The  Trades'  Hall — Convent  and 
Monastery — The  Cross — Royal  Charters — Manu- 
factures— Five  Guinea  Stockings — St.  Machar's 
Cathedral — Emblazoned  ceiling,  names  and  in- 
scriptions —  Epitaphs  on  Monuments  to  Bishop 
Lychtoun,  Bishop  Dunbar,  etc.  —  Fine  carved 
pulpit- — King's  College — The  library — Pictures — 
Marischal  College — Library — Keith's  Coins — Lists 
of  Professors — Roman  inscription — Story  of  boat 
accident — Supping  with  civic  authorities — Re- 
ceives Freedom  of  the  city — Preaches  in  two 
Churches,  ...... 


199-210 


LETTER  XLI. 

Aberdeen — Druid  temple — Stonehaven — Population — 
Cowie — Manufactures — Dunnottar  Castle — Inscrip- 
tion—  Bervie  —  Manufactures — Fishery — Montrose 
— Church  and  Chapels — Gold  fibula  found  in  urn 
— Whale  fishery,  etc. — Granaries — Manufactures — 
Usan — Curious  pebbles,  .... 


211-214 


LETTER  XLII. 

Brechin  —  Lord  Panmure's  Castle  —  Cathedral —  The 
Round  Tower — Chapels — Town-house  and  cross — 
Seivewright's  MSS. — Caterthun — Caristoun — Aber- 
lemno  crosses — Priory  of  Restenet — Forfar — Glamis 
Castle — Glamis  Cross,  .... 


214-219 


CONTENTS.  xix 

LETTER  XLIII. 

PAGES 

Hynde  Castle — Arbroath — Manufactures — Osnaburghs 
— Aberbrothock  Abbey — Broughty  Castle — Dundee 
— Harbour — Town-house — Parish  church — Other 
churches — Trade — Extraordinary  windmill,  .  219-224 

LETTER  XLIV. 

Fowlis  Church — Coupar  Angus — Inchtuthil — Murthly — 
Dunkeld — The  Cathedral — Duke  of  A  thole's  house 
— The  kitchen  garden — Cascades — The  Hermitage 
— Birnam  Hill — Ancient  spearhead — Larch  wains- 
coting, ......  224-228 

LETTER  XLV. 

Pass  of  Killiecrankie — Druid  Temples — The  Tilt — Blair 
Castle — The  gardens — Tapestry  and  carvings — 
Bureau  of  broom-wood,  ....  229-232 

LETTER  XLVI. 

Garth  Castle — Bridge  over  River  Tay — Inscriptions  on 
Bridge  —  Kenmore  —  Taymouth  Castle  —  Druid 
temple — Priory  on  Isle  of  Loch  Tay—  Glen  Lyon — 
Fortingall  —  An  ancient  Vase  —  Roman  fort — 
Struan — Loch  Tay  and  its  fish,  .  .  .  233-238 

LETTER  XLVII. 

Menzies  Castle  —  Glenalmond — Drummond  Castle — 
Camp  of  Ardoch — Sir  William  Stirling — Burial 
urn  containing  burnt  skull — Lead  pipe  found  in 
camp,  ......  238-241 

LETTER  XLVIII. 

Tullibardine  Church — Aged  soldier — Muthill — Kilcar- 
dine  Castle — Roman  camp — Lawers — Ochtertyre, 
Sir  Patrick  Murray'Sj  .  .  .  .  242-244 


I 
xx  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  XLIX. 

PAGES 

Camp  of  Strageth — Innerpeffary — Maderty  Church — 
Inchaffray  Abbey  —  Land  cultivation  —  Methven 
Church — Portrait  of  the  Admirable  Crichtoii — 
Battle  of  Luncarty — Valour  of  the  Hays — Dun- 
sinane,  ...  .  245-248 

LETTER  L. 

Dupplin  House — The  paintings— Elcho  Nunnery — 
Perth— Castle  Gable— The  Parish  Church,  St. 
John's — Monasteries  and  Nunneries — Town-house 
— Trade,  value  of  exports — Summary  of  principal 
writs  and  charters— Receives  the  Freedom  of  the 
city — St.  Johnston's  ribbon — Combat  on  the  North 
Inch — Royal  palaces — Tradition  concerning  origin 
of  Abernethy -Tower/  ....  249-257 

LETTER  LI. 

Scone  Abbey,  Coronation  Chair  and  Stone — Historic 
paintings — Tapestry — Queen  Mary's  bed — Lord 
Stormont's  tomb — Kinnoull — Carse  of  Gowrie — 
Errol  —  Megginch  Castle — Rotation  of  crops — 
Abernethy  Church  —  The  Round  Tower  — The 
Reverend  A.  Moncrieff — Secession  Church  students,  257-262 

LETTER  LII. 

Mugdrum  Cross — MacdufTs  Cross — Newburgh — Burn- 
ing of  three  witches — Lindores  Abbey — Large 
holly  tree  killed  by  frost  —  Wallace's  den  — 
Ballanbreich  Castle — Balmerino  Abbey — Cupar — 
Population — Cross — Convent — Dairsie  Church  and 
Tower,  262-266 


CONTENTS.  xxi 

LETTER  LIII. 

PAGES 

St.  Andrews — Broad   streets — Legend  regarding  relics 

of  St.  Andrews — St    Regulus'  Church — Cathedral 

—  Priory  —  Castle  —  Parish   Church  —  Archbishop 

Sharp's     monument  —  Monasteries  —  Convent  — 

University — Library — Population — Kirkhaugh,       .      266-273 

LETTER  LIV. 

St.  Andrews — Secale  plant- — Boar  Hills — Crail — Church 
— Bone  lace  manufacture — Pilgrimage  of  women 
to  cell ;  Isle  of  May — Pitteenweem — Church — 
Whale  fishery — Carpet  manufacture — St.  Monance 
Church — Elie — Garnets — Sir  John  Anstruther's 
house — Pictures,  books,  and  coins — Pict's  house,  .  273-276 

LETTER  LV. 

Balgonie  Castle — Druid  temple,  Lundin  House — Leven 
harbour — Earl  of  Rothes — Leslie  house — Falkland 
Palace — Kinross — Lochleven  Castle,  .  .  276-279 

LETTER  LVI. 

Lochleven  Priory — Lochore — Roman  camp — Lochgelly 

—  Abbotshall  —  Dysart  —  Large  colliery  pumping 
engine,         .  .  .  .  .      279-281 

LETTER  LVII. 

Kirkcaldy  —  Population  —  Manufactures  —  Inverteil 
quarry — Fossils — Kinghorn — Ferry  to  Edinburgh — 
Petrified  moss — Burntisland — Church — Harbour — 
Aberdour — Castle — Church — FordelGlen — Dalgety 
Church — Donibristle  House — Paintings  and  tapestry 

—  Inverkeithing  harbour  —  Queensferry  —  Lead- 
mine  — Dunfermline  —  Palace  — Abbey —  St.  Mar- 
garet's Shrine — Tombs  of  Scottish  Kings — Queen 
Anne's   bedstead  —  Offers   fifty   guineas   for  it  — 
Churches — Manufactures — Population,        .  .      281-287 


xxii  CONTENTS. 

LETTER  LVIII. 

PAGES 

Torryburn — Culross  Church — Bruce  family  monumental 
tomb — Tulliallan — Clackmannan — King  Robert  the 
Bruce's  sword  and  helmet — Sauchie — Schaw  Park 
House — Seat  of  Lord  Alva — Alloa  Tower  and 
grounds— Abbey  Craig,  ....  288-290 

LETTER  LIX. 

Dunblane — The  Cathedral — Bishop  Leighton's  library 
—  Manufactures  —  Seceders  —  Kippenross — Large 
sycamore— Battle  of  Sheriffmuir— Strathallan,  .  291-293 


LETTER  LX. 

Keir  ;  Mr.  Stirling's  —  Shell-bed  —  Cambuskenneth 
Abbey  —  Stirling  —  Castle  —  Monastery  —  Royal 
Chapel  —  Palace  —  Brass  cannon  —  St.  Ninian  — 
Bannockburn — Falkirk  Fair — Droves  of  cattle — 
Fossils — Carron — Arthur's  Oven — Iron  works — 
Battle  of  Falkirk — Linlithgow — Palace — Church 
— Hopetoun  House — Library — Pictures — Lawn — 
Yew  hedges — Queensferry — Inchcolm  Abbey — 
Cramond — Roman  works — The  Catstone — Corstor- 
phine  Church,  .....  293-299 

LETTER  LXI. 

Edinburgh — High  houses — St.  Giles's  Cathedral — Grey- 
friars  Church — Holyrood  Palace — Parish  churches 
— Burgh  of  Herbergare — Streets — Population — 
Workhouse — Heriot's  Hospital  —  Infirmary —  Hos- 
pitals— Holyrood  Abbey — Monumental  tombs — 
Arthur's  Seat,  .....  299-305 


CONTENTS. 


xxni 


LETTER  LXII. 

Edinburgh  Castle — Queen  Mary's  room — Verse  written 
on  wall — Regalia — Great  cannon — Deep  well — 
Royal  Exchange — New  Town — Parliament  House — 
Law  Courts — Advocates'  Library — Rare  MSS. — Coins 
and  medals,  ..... 


305-308 


LETTER  LXIII. 

Edinburgh — North  Loch — Newhaven — Leith  harbour — 
St.  Anthony's  monastery — South  and  North  Leith 
parish  churches — Population — Restalrig  Church — 
Craigmillar  Castle — Sciennes  Nunnery, 


308-310 


LETTER  LXIV. 

Musselburgh — New  Hailes — Sir  David  Dalrymple's 
library — Scotch  pebbles — Subterranean  mill-lade — 
Battle  of  Pinkie — Battle  of  Prestonpans — Dalkeith 
Palace — Paintings  and  tapestry, 


310-312 


LETTER  LXV. 

Newbattle  Abbey — Arniston  House  and  grounds — 
Large  ash-tree  —  Library — Solemn  League  and 
Covenant  —  Hawthornden  —  Grotto  and  cave  — 
Roslin  Chapel — Battles  near  Roslin — Baron  Clerk's 
antiquities — Rullion  Green, 


312-315 


LETTER  LXVI. 

Lochend  quarry — Fossils — Crichton — Castle — Church 
— Ancient  camp — Milton — Fossils — Yester  House 
— Paintings  by  Sir  Peter  Lely  and  Vandyck — Old 
Castle  of  Yester — The  Church, 


315-317 


xxiv  CONTENTS. 


LETTER  LXVII. 

PAGES 

Haddington — Manufactures — Monastery — Fortifications 
and  sieges — New  Mills — The  Abbey — Nungate — 
North  Berwick — The  Law — Manufactures — Ruins 
of  Nunnery  —  Tantallon  Castle  —  Bass  Rock  — 
Tynnfnghame,  .  .  .  .  .  317-320 

LETTER  LXVIII. 

Dunbar — Harbour — Parish  Church — Earl  of  Dunbar's 
tomb  —  Castle  ruins  —  Geological  formations  re- 
sembling Giant's  Causeway — Fossils — Manufactures 
—  Fishery — Skates'  eggs — Town-house — Ancient 
Militia  pikes — Cromwell's  victory,  .  .  .  320-324 

LE1TER  LXIX. 

Broxmouth  Park — Fossils — Dunglass  Dean — Dunglass 
House — Coal-«pit — Decaying  fir  roots  destructive  to 
other  trees, ......  324-326 

LETTER  LXX. 

Coldingham — St.  Abb's  Head — Nunnery — Tragic  story 

about  nuns — Priory — Eyemouth,     .  .  .      326-328 


LETTER  LXXI. 

Coldstream  Nunnery — Kelso  Abbey — Old  castle — 
Floors  Castle — Fine  Lawn — Beautiful  country, 
'The  Flower  of  Scotland  '—Duns— Stitchell,  Sir 
Robert  Pringle's — Ancient  bronze  armlet — Two 
large  stones  near  Mellerstains,  .  .  .  328-332 


CONTENTS.  xxv 


LETTER  LXXII. 

PAGES 

Mellerstain  Grounds — The  Baillies'  family  vault — 
Latin  and  English  inscriptions  on  tombs — Spottis- 
woode  —  Dryburgh  Abbey  —  Melrose  Abbey  — 
Sculptures  —  Inscriptions  —  Ancient  bridge  over 
Tweed — Druids — Roman  camp  and  coins — Eildon 
Hills— Skirmish  Hill,  ....  332-342 


LETTER  LXXIII. 

Galashiels — Selkirk  —  Roman  camp — Ancrum — Jed- 
burgh — Fine  Abbey — Churches — Population — Fine 
fruit  country — Cessford  Castle,  .  .  .  342-346 


LETTER  LXXIV. 

Berwick-on-Tweed — Old  Castle — Fortifications — Parish 
Church — Town-house — Kingdom  of  Northuinbria 
— Norham  Castle — Church — Ribby — Knight's  belt 
and  hilt  of  sword — Ford  Castle — Flodden  Field — 
The  Battle — Tradition  of  death  of  James  iv. ;  his 
penance  chain  not  iron,  but  silver ;  was  in  Lord 
Marchmont's  possession,  ....  346-351 


ITINERARY. 

Weekly  account  of  places  visited  and  miles  travelled — 
Ireland,  Scotland,  and  in  England — Summary  of 
total  number  of  miles — List  of  Stages  between 
London  and  Edinburgh — Distances  by  East  and 
West  Routes,  .....  351-356 

INDEX,     .......  357 


NOTES. 

Letters  III.  to  V.,  and  VII.  to  XIII.,  appeared  in  The 
Glasgow  Herald  during  November  1884 ;  Letters  XXVI., 
XXVII.,  and  XXXI.  to  XXXIII.  (in  whole  or  in  part) 
appeared  in  The  Northern  Ensign  during  July  1886,  having 
been  communicated  to  those  newspapers  by  'Alpha1 — Mr. 
Thomas  Sinclair,  M.A.,  Author  of  Humanities,  etc.,  vide  The 
Athenaeum,  July  31,  1886. 

The  transcription  of  the  seventy-four  letters,  etc.,  from  the 
original  MSS.,  was  undertaken  by  Mr.  Adam  H.  Darlington, 
London,  very  much  as  a  matter  of  personal  friendship.  The 
Editor  gratefully  acknowledges  his  indebtedness  to  Mr. 
Darlington,  not  only  for  his  careful  transcripts,  but  also  for 
valuable  researches  into  other  MSS.  only  to  be  seen  in  the 
British  Museum. 


LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Portrait — The    Right    Rev.    Dr.    Richard   Pococke, 

Lord  Bishop  of  Meath,  .  .  .  Frontispiece 

Roman  Inscription — Axsan  Conis,  .  .  .  Page  6 

Norman  Doorway,  Whithorn  Priory,  .  .  16 

Chimneypiece  in  Cardonness  Castle — Upper  Room,  .  21 

Chimneypiece  in  Cardonness  Castle — The  Hall,  .  21 

Abbey  of  Dundrennan — The  North  End  of  the  Church,  22 

Arch  in  the  Church  of  Dundrennan  Abbey,  .  .  23 

New  Abbey— West  Front  of  the  Church,  .  .  28 

New  Abbey— South  End  of  the  Church,  .  .  29 

Illustrations  of  Gothic  Architectural  Terms,  .  .  31 
Sculpture  of  Winged  Figure,  one  foot  on  a  globe,  bos 

relievo — Fragment  from  Hoddam  Castle,  .  33 
Inscription — Robert  de  Brvs  Counte  de  Carrik  et 

Seityur  du  Val  de  Anann  Ano  1300,  .  .  35 

Inscription — God  Revenge  Mvrder,  1689,  G.  C.,  .  37 

Plan — Double  Boat,  like  two  troughs  joined,  .  37 

Ground-plan — Hamilton  Parish  Church,  .  .  48 

Plan — Roofing-tiles,  Bothwell  Church,  .  .  48 
Roman  Inscription — Imp.  Caesari.  T.  Aelio.  Hadriano. 

Antonino.  Avg.  Pio.  P.P.  Vexilla.  Leg.  vi.  Vic. 

P.F.  Per.  M.P.,  .....  52 

Abbey  of  Paisley — Inside  View  of  the  Church,  .  55 

Seagate  Castle,  Irvine — Doorway,  ...  58 

Seagate  Castle,  Irvine — Window,  ...  59 

Dunstaffnage  Castle,  .....  73 

Ivory  Chessman  in  Dunstaffnage  Castle,  .  .  75 

Back  and  Side  Views  of  Chessman's  Chair,  .  .  75 

lona  Cathedral,  .....  80 


'  WHAT  dost  thou  now  ?    Beside  the  hearth,  no  doubt, 
The  map  is  spread,  your  eye  pursues  my  route ; 
You  say,  "  Where  is  he?  may  each  place  supply 

Kind  service,  and  some  heart  that  loves  and  cares — 
Some  hostess  like  myself,  who  prays  and  fears 
For  some  loved  being  'neath  a  foreign  sky. 

'  "Now  fast  he  journeys  on.     I  'm  sure  by  now  . 
That  far-off  city  he  has  travelled  through, 
That  wood,  that  bridge,  scene  of  some  mighty  deed ; 
E'en  now  he  may  through  that  lone  valley  stray, 
Marked  by  the  fatal  Cross,  that  speaks  dismay, 
Where  but  last  year — O,  may  he  safely  speed  ! " ' 

The  Journey,  by  VICTOR  HUGO. 
Dean  Carrington's  Translation,  1885. 


BIOGRAPHICAL    SKETCH 

OF 

RICHARD  POCOCKE,   D.D.,  LL.D.,   F.R.S.,  F.S.A., 

LORD  BISHOP  SUCCESSIVELY  OF  OSSORY  AND  MEATH. 

'  I  have  often  wished  that  no  Travels  or  Journey  should  be  published  but  those 
undertaken  by  persons  of  integrity,  and  capacity  to  judge  well,  and  describe 
faithfully  and  in  good  language,  the  situation,  condition,  and  manners  of  the 
countries  past  through.' — SIR  ALEXANDER  DiCK.1 

ALTHOUGH  an  Englishman  by  birth,  and  an  Irishman  by 
adoption,  Bishop  Pococke  was  not  without  some  connection 
with  Scotland — he  was  the  honorary  citizen  of  no  fewer 
than  seven  Scottish  cities  and  royal  boroughs. 

As  a  Scottish  burgess,  then,  it  seems  not  only  graceful  but 
appropriate  to  preface  his  Tours  Through  Scotland,  on  their 
first  publication,2  with  as  full  a  memoir  of  their  author  as  the 
limited  materials  at  our  command  will  permit  of. 

Richard  Pococke  was  born  in  Southampton  on  19th  Novem- 
ber 1704.3  His  father,  the  Rev.  Richard  Pococke,  LL.B. 
(who  is  said  to  be  related  to  the  Oriental  scholar,  Dr.  Edward 
Pococke,  who  died  in  1691),  was  Rector  of  Colmer  in  Hamp- 
shire, and  afterwards  Headmaster  of  the  King  Edward  vi. 
Free  Grammar  School,  and  Sequestrator  and  Minister  of  All 
Saints1  Church  in  Southampton.  He  is  described  as  a  man 
of  more  worth  than  wealth,  and  when,  on  April  26,  1698,  he 

1  Dr.  Johnson  had  presented  a  copy  of  his  Jotirney  to  the  Western  Islands  of 
Scotland  to  Sir  A.  Dick. — Boswell's  Life  of  Johnson. 

2  See  Note,  p.  xxvi. 

3  This  date  makes  Dr.  Pocccke  twenty-one  at  his  ordination,  and  sixty-one  at 
his  death.     If,  however,  his  birth  took  place  in  1702,  it  would  synchronise  with 
those  events,  by  making  him  twenty-three  years  of  age  when  ordained,  and 
sixty-three  years  old  when  he  died. 

c 


xxxii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

married  Miss  Milles,  only  daughter  of  the  Rev.  Isaac  Milles, 
'  he  received  with  her  a  fortune  of  nearly  ^lOOO — a  consider- 
able portion  in  those  days,'  and  a  sum  more  likely  to  have 
been  the  joint  gift  of  her  brothers,  who  had  all  obtained 
lucrative  church  preferments,  than  to  have  been  saved  out 
of  the  Rector's  limited  income.  Richard  is  stated  to  have 
received  his  earlier  education  at  King  Edward's  School;  but 
that  is  very  doubtful,  for  when  only  six  years  old  his  father 
died  (1710),  and  his  mother,  with  her  two  young  children — 
Richard  and  Elizabeth — removed  to  her  father's  rectory  at 
Highclere,  Hampshire.  Mrs.  Pococke  was  with  much  tender 
sympathy  welcomed  beneath  the  parental  roof,  and  as  her 
mother  had  died  two  years  previously,  Mr.  Milles  gladly 
committed  his  domestic  concerns  to  her  care. 

For  ten  years  Mrs.  Pococke  enjoyed  the  happy  society  of 
her  father,  and  was  unremitting  in  her  dutiful  attentions, 
especially  during  the  last  years  of  his  life,  when  he  required 
careful  nursing,  being  rendered  helpless  by  his  great  age  and 
infirmities.  On  6th  July  1720  he  died  aged  82.  His  remains 
are  interred  in  the  chancel  of  Highclere  Church,  under  the 
north  end  of  the  altar.  A  black  marble  slab  which  covers  his 
grave  bears  the  following  inscription  : — 

'  Subtus  depositae  sunt  reliquiae  venerabilis  viri  Isaac!  Milles, 
Suffolciensis,  A.M.  Cantabrigiensis  e  Coll.  Divi  Joannis,  hujusce 
ecclesiae  Rectoris.  Qui  postquam  annos  triginta  septem  in  erudi- 
endis  optimae  spei  adolescentibus,  et  in  munere  pastorali  summa 
fide  defungendo  insumpsisset,  senectute  ingravescente  variisque 
laboribus  fractus,  placide  tandem  in  CHRISTO  obdormivit  die  sexto 
mensis  Julii,  anno  Domini  1720;  aetatis  82. 

'  Ab  Elizabetha  uxore,  quae  die  quarto  Januarii  anno  1708  ex 
hac  vita  migravit,  cuj usque  reliquiae  hue  juxta  sunt,  suscepit  tres 
filios :  Thomam,  primum  apud  Oxonienses  Graecae  linguae  Profes- 
sorem  Regium,  deinde  apud  Hibernos  Episcopum  Waterfordiensem 
et  Lismorensem ;  Hieremiam,  collegii  Balliolensis  apud  eosdem 
Oxonienses  socium,  postea  Vicarium  de  Dffloe,  in  agro  Cornubiensi ; 
Isaacum,  Ecclesiae  Waterfordiensis  Thesaurarium,  in  Ecclesia  Lis- 
morensi  Praebendarium  de  Modeligo;  et  filiam  unicam  Elizabethan!, 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxiii 

Ricardo  Pocokio,  LL.B.,  Scholae  Southantoniensis  Archididascalo 
peritissimo,  nuptam. 

'  Optimis  parentibus  hoc  marmor  poni  voluere  liberi  eorum 
'supradicti  superstites. 

'  Animis  eorum  propitietur  Deus. 

Requiescant  in  pace. 
jEternam  requiem  det  illis  Deus.' l 

On  the  north  wall  of  the  chancel  of  Highclere  Church  is 
another  monument,  erected  by  his  son  the  Bishop  of  Waterford. 
It  is  white  marble,  and  bears  the  following  inscription : — 

'  In  memory  of  the  pious  and  learned  Mr.  Isaac  Milles,  born  at 
Cockfield,  near  St.  Edmund's  Bury  in  Suffolk,  M.A.  of  St.  John's 
College  in  Cambridge,  whose  body  is  deposited  under  a  black 
marble  stone  not  far  from  this  place. 

'  He  was  a  man  of  great  integrity  of  life  and  manners,  sober, 
just,  holy,  temperate,  holding  fast  the  faithful  word,  as  he  had 
been  taught,  and  able,  by  sound  doctrine,  both  to  exhort  and  to 
convince  gainsayers.  He  was  abundantly  charitable  to  the  poor, 
and  liberally  hospitable  to  the  rich,  and  kind  and  beneficent  to  all. 
He  was  a  faithful  friend,  a  tender  parent,  and  a  good  master.  He 
never  spoke  evil  of  any  one ;  but  endeavoured,  by  all  means,  to 
promote  the  interest,  both  temporal  and  eternal,  of  every  one, 
more  especially  of  those  committed  to  his  charge.  He  was  always 
cheerful,  and  desirous  to  render  others  so  too.  He  ordered  his 
whole  conversation,  so  as  to  make  it  plainly  appear  that  he  had  a 

1  '  Beneath  are  deposited  the  reliques  of  that  venerable  man,  Isaac  Milles,  of 
Suffolk,  A.M.  of  St.  John's  College,  Cambridge,  Rector  of  this  Church,  who, 
after  he  had  employed  seven-and-thirty  years  in  the  instruction  of  youth  of  the 
highest  promise,  and  in  the  most  faithful  discharge  of  the  pastoral  office,  broken 
down  by  the  weight  of  age  and  the  variety  of  his  labours,  gently  fell  asleep  in 
Christ,  6th  July,  1720,  in  the  82d  year  of  his  age. 

'  By  Elizabeth,  his  wife,  who  departed  this  life  on  the  4th  January,  1708,  and 
whose  reliques  are  just  here  deposited,  he  had  three  sons  :  Thomas,  first  Regius 
Professor  of  Greek  at  Oxford,  then  Bishop  of  Waterford  and  Lismore,  in  Ireland ; 
Jeremy,  Fellow  of  Balliol  Coll.  Oxon.,  afterwards  Vicar  of  Duloe,  in  Cornwall; 
Isaac,  Treasurer  of  Waterford  Cathedral,  Prebendary  of  Modeligo  in  Lismore 
Cathedral;  and  one  daughter,  Elizabeth,  married  to  Richard  Pococke,  LL.B., 
the  learned  headmaster  of  Southampton  School. 

'  Their  above-named  surviving  children  have  erected  this  marble  to  the  best 
of  parents.  May  God  be  merciful  to  their  souls.  May  they  rest  in  peace. 
May  God  give  them  eternal  rest.' — Life  of  the  Rev.  Isaac  Milles,  Lond.  1842, 
p.  128. 


xxxiv  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

most  lively  sense  of  God  and  his  providence  on  his  mind.  He  was 
perfectly  constant  and  regular  in  his  private  and  public  devotions. 
He  educated  many  sons  of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  instilling  into 
their  minds,  together  with  good  literature,  the  best  principles  of 
religion  and  morality.  He  was  a  constant  and  faithful,  a  zealous 
and  learned  preacher.  He  was  continually  resident,  and  carefully 
diligent  in  the  cure  of  this  parish  of  Highclere,  for  thirty-nine 
years,  two  months,  and  seven  days ;  when,  after  having  contracted 
a  great  feebleness  by  the  labours  of  his  life,  he  sweetly  fell  asleep 
in  Christ,  without  struggle,  groan,  or  sigh,  on  Wednesday,  the  6th 
day  of  July,  1720,  and  of  his  age  the  82d  year. 

'  By  Elizabeth  Luckin,  his  wife,  he  had  three  sons  and  one 
daughter.  His  eldest  son  is  Bishop  of  Waterford  and  Lismore,  in 
the  kingdom  of  Ireland ;  his  second  son  is  Vicar  of  Duloe,  in 
Cornwall ;  and  his  third  son  is  Treasurer  of  the  Cathedral  Church 
of  Waterford,  and  Prebendary  of  Modeligo  in  the  church  of  Lis- 
more. His  daughter  was  married  to  the  Reverend  Mr.  Richard 
Pococke,  minister  of  All  Saints'  Church  in  Southampton,  and  head 
master  of  the  free  school  there. 

' "  The  righteous  is  ever  merciful,  and  lendeth  ;  and  his  seed  is 
blessed." — Psalm  xxxvii.  26. 

'T.  W.  L.1  posiiit.' 

Associated  during  his  childhood  and  youth  with  such  a 
grandfather  as  is  here  commemorated,  and  surrounded  by 
relatives  and  friends  all  connected  with  the  Church,  it  is  not 
surprising  that  he  should  have  had  his  mind  directed  to  the 
clerical  profession.  Mr.  Milles  was  a  sound  and  accomplished 
scholar,  and,  with  the  view  of  augmenting  his  slender  income, 
conducted  a  school  in  his  Parsonage,  which  he  more  than  once 
enlarged.  He  taught  first  his  own  sons  the  elements  of 
Hebrew  and  classical  literature,  and  after  they  and  some 
other  pupils  had  been  to  Oxford,  and  there  by  their  successes 
demonstrated  the  character  of  the  scholastic  training  at  High- 
clere, Mr.  Milles  was  never  without  as  many  scholars  as  he 
could  accommodate. 

It   would    therefore    be    at   his   grandfather's   school   that 

1  CT.  W.  L.,'  Thomas  Waterford  Lismore — The  Right  Rev.  Dr.  Thomas 
Milles,  Bishop  of  Waterford  and  Lismore. — Life  of  Rev.  Isaac  Milles,  p.  132. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxv 

Richard  received  his  earlier  education,  and  that  moral  and 
Christian  training  which  influenced  his  life. 

'Mr.  Milles1  looked  upon  the  knowledge  of  letters,  and  all 
intellectual  acquirement,  as  very  necessary  and  valuable,  but  very 
subsidiary  to  the  inculcation  of  religious  sentiments,  habits  of 
piety,  and  the  practice  of  truth,  virtue,  and  charity.  His  mode 
of  establishing  authority  was  far  from  that  of  the  tyrant,  nor  was 
he  willing  to  create  personal  awe  of  himself  in  the  minds  of  the 
children  under  his  charge.  He  preferred  the  gentler  methods  of 
reasoning  with  them,  representing  the  necessity  of  some  things, 
and  the  advantage  of  abstaining  from  others ;  or  by  some  good- 
humoured  turn  of  expression,  he  would  rally  them  on  the  folly  of 
a  weak,  and  lead  them  to  the  practice  of  a  contrary  line  of  con- 
duct. Always  cheerful  himself,  he  naturally  conveyed  his  instruc- 
tions in  a  cheerful  and  even  facetious  manner,  believing  the 
impression  thus  made  to  be  more  lively,  and  as  lasting  as  that  of 
a  graver  style.  He  took  care  to  suppress  everything  tending  to 
vice,  and  to  encourage  everything  honest,  pure,  lovely,  and  of 
good  report.  His  example  yet  more  than  his  precept  taught 
them  to  be  kind,  humane,  and  civil  to  all,  especially  to  the  poor, 
towards  whom  he  would  contrive  little  opportunities  for  the 
exercise  of  the  generosity  of  his  boys.  He  sought  to  infuse  some 
of  his  own  charity  in  all  around  him,  and  promoted  church  col- 
lections for  charitable  objects  at  home  and  abroad,  e.g.  for  the 
Vaudois,  the  French  Protestant  refugees,  and  the  captives  in 
Morocco.  The  parish  register  of  Highclere  abounds  with 
accounts  of  such  philanthropic  efforts,  in  which  the  names  of  the 
subscribers  occur,  notably  among  whom  were  the  schoolboys  and 
domestics  of  Mr.  Milles.  His  constant  anxiety  was  to  make  his 
boys  wise  and  good,  manly  and  honourable ;  to  abhor  everything 
mean  and  dirty,  and  to  love  whatever  was  fair  and  open.' 

With  such  a  training  Richard  Pococke  commenced  his  aca- 
demical career. 

On  the  death  of  Mr.  Milles,  Mrs.  Pococke  and  family  appear 
to  have  left  the  Rectory  of  Highclere,  and  taken  up  their 
residence  at  Newtown,  near  Newbury,  with  which  place  they 
maintained  a  lifelong  connection,  and  where  subsequently 
Bishop  Pococke  acquired  property. 

1  Life  ofjfev.  Isaac  Milles,  p.  67. 


xxxvi  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

From  the  new  home  at  Newtown,  Richard  was  sent  to  Oxford, 
and  was  entered  on  3rd  February  1722  as  an  exhibitioner  of 
Corpus  Christi  College. 

In  the  year  1725,  his  uncle,  the  Bishop  of  Waterford 
and  Lismore,  appointed  him  to  the  Precentorship  of  Lismore, 
and  in  1727  the  chapter  of  Lismore  chose  him  for  their  proctor 
to  Convocation. 

In  1731  he  took  his  degree  of  Master  of  Arts  and  LL.B., 
and  of  LL.D.  on  June  28,  1733,  together  with  Dr.  Seeker,  then 
Rector  of  St.  James's,  and  afterwards  Archbishop  of  Canterbury. 
In  1734  (apparently  during  his  absence  on  the  continent)  he 
was  appointed  Vicar-General  of  the  Dioceses  of  Waterford  and 
Lismore. 

From  1733  to  1736  Dean  Jeremiah  Milles,  D.D.,  and  Dr. 
Pococke,  his  cousin  (both  nephews  of  the  Bishop  of  Water- 
ford),  travelled  in  company  through  France,  Switzerland,  Italy, 
Belgium,  Holland,  Hanover,  Prussia,  Austria,  Greece,  etc. 

Immediately  on  their  return,  Dr.  Pococke  took  a  short  trip  in 
England,  travelling  from  Holyhead  to  Oxford,  and  visiting  Old 
Sarum,  Salisbury,  Andover,  and  Stonehenge.  From  this  time 
he  was  possessed  with  a  passion  for  travelling,  which  earned  for 
him  the  title  of  'Pococke  the  traveller1;  the  mantle  of  his 
celebrated  relative,  Dr.  Edward  Pococke,1  Oriental  scholar  and 
traveller,  had  evidently  fallen  on  him.  He  had  resolved  to 
visit  Egypt  and  the  East,  and  employed  the  summer  of  1737 
in  making  extensive  preparations  for  a  long  absence.  Armed 
with  passports  and  letters  of  introduction,  he  sailed  for  Alex- 
andria in  the  autumn  of  that  year,  arriving  there  on  29th 
September.  The  recommendations  to  the  ambassadors,  consuls, 
and  important  personages  were  of  the  greatest  value  to  him ; 
and  thus  he  experienced  less  difficulty  in  seeing  and  examining 
historical  places  than  his  contemporary,  Mr.  Norden.  The  two 

1  *  Smith's  Latin  verses  are  on  Edward  Pococke,  the  great  Oriental  linguist. 
He  travelled,  it  is  true,  but  Dr.  Richard  Pococke,  late  Bishop  of  Ossory,  who 
published  travels  through  the  East,  is  usually  called  the  great  traveller.' — Boswell's 
Life  of  Johnson,  ed.  1811,  vol.  iv.  p.  58,  n.  Kearney. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxvii 

travellers  are  supposed  to  have  passed  each  other  during 
the  night  on  the  Nile,  Dr.  Pococke  being  on  his  homeward 
journey. 

On  his  return  in  1742  he  prepared  an  account  of  his  travels 
for  the  press,  and  in  1743  Mr.  Bowyer  printed  the  first  volume, 
folio,  entitled  A  Description  of  the  East  and  of  some  other 
Countries :  Vol.  I. — Observations  on  Egypt. 

In  1743  he  took  a  month's  tour  through  Leicestershire,  Not- 
tinghamshire, Derbyshire,  and  neighbouring  counties,  the  MSS. 
of  which  are  in  the  possession  of  an  Irish  gentleman.1 

The  following  year  he  was  made  Precentor  of  Waterford.  In 
1745  he  finished  the  second  volume  of  his  travels,  under  the 
title  of  Observations  on  Palestine,  or  the  Holy  Land,  Syria, 
Mesopotamia,  Cyprus,  and  Candia,  in  two  parts.  This  he 
dedicated  to  the  Earl  of  Chesterfield,  who  had  just  been 
appointed  Lord-Lieutenant  of  Ireland,  and  on  whom  he 
attended,  as  one  of  his  Lordship's  domestic  chaplains. 

These  volumes  attracted  for  a  period  of  over  half  a  century 
a  considerable  amount  of  attention,  and  at  once  gave  him  a 
standing  amongst  the  literati  of  his  day. 

The  works  were  illustrated  by  between  170  and  180 
sketches ;  '  but  the  Doctor  was  little  acquainted  with  the  Art  of 
drawing  and  the  rules  of  perspective."1  Gibbon  speaks  of  the 
works  as  characterised  by  '  superior  learning  and  dignity,  but 
the  Author  too  often  confounds  what  he  had  seen,  and  what 
he  had  heard.'  Pinkerton  says,  '  The  high  value  of  Pococke's 
travels  with  respect  to  antiquities  and  science  is  universally 
acknowledged.'  Dibdin  remarks  that  *  these  are  noble  tomes ; 
and  the  author  rises  in  estimation  more  and  more  every  day. 
He  \sfacile  princeps  in  his  department,  Antiquities  and  Science 
are  the  leading  features  of  his.  work.'  Pauli  Ernesti  Jablonski 
eulogises  the  first  volume  on  Egypt  thus  :  '  Profecto  quantum 
attinet  ad  Aegyptum  Sacram,  quam  aliquando  moliebar,  video 
operam  istam  a  praestantissimo  Rich.  Pocockio,  in  Descriptione 

1  P.  19. 


xxxviii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Aegypti,  jam  occupatam,  mihique  profecto  non  invito,  prae- 
reptam  suisse.  Is  enim  in  isthoc  argumento,  plerumque  tarn 
diligenter  et  feliciter  versatus  est,  ut  Spicilegio  nonnissi  tenui, 
locum  reliquerit.1  Stevenson  says,  '  The  merits  of  this  work  in 
pointing  out  and  describing  the  Antiquities  of  Egypt  and  the 
East  are  well  known.1  Mant  describes  the  Travels  '  as  among 
the  foremost  of  modern  European  descriptions  of  those  regions, 
and  which,  notwithstanding  the  numerous  narratives  that  have 
since  been  published,  still  continue  to  rank  with  the  most 
valuable  standard  productions  of  their  class." 

If  auction  sale  prices  may  be  taken  as  indicating  their  value, 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  2  vols.  brought  £%1  at  the 
Marquis  of  Townsh end's  sale,  £16,  10s.  at  Heaths1,  £14<  at 
Townby's,  and  forty  years  ago  for  large  paper  copies  £10  was  a 
common  price  ;  but  these  prices  are  things  of  the  past.  What 
with  reprints,  and  above  all  the  more  accurate  and  scientific 
works  of  recent  years,  Dr.  Pococke's  great  literary  undertaking 
lias  been  superseded  ;  but  he  himself  will  ever  live  as  a  dis- 
tinguished pioneer  of  that  class  of  antiquarian  and  historical  re- 
search. The  following  are  some  of  the  references  and  reprints  of 
his  Works : — Dr.  Shaw's1  Travels,  or  Observations,  etc.  Supple- 
ment wherein  some  objections  .  .  .  [by  R.  P.]  are  .  .  .  answered, 
etc.,  1746,  fol.  Beschreibung  des  Morgenlanders  und  einiger 
anderer  Lander.  Englischen  ubersetzet  durch  C.  E.  von  Wind- 
heimundvon  .  .  .  dem  Canzler  von  Motheim ;  mit  einer  Vorrede 
versehen  [with  illustrations].  3  Theil  Erlangen,  1754-5.  4°. 
Voyage  de  R.  Pococke  en  Orient,  dans  TEgypte  .  .  .  traduit 
de  TAnglois,  sur  la  seconde  edition  par  M.  Eydous  [et  de  la 
Flotte].  Nouvelle  edition  augmentu.  7  torn.  Neuchatel, 
1772-73.  12°.  Tfo  World  Displayed,  Travels  throitgh  Egypt. 
Illustrated.  Vols.  xii.  and  xiii.  3d.  edition,  1774,  London. 
12°.  Moore's  Nero  .  .  .  Collection  of  Voyages,  etc.,  vol.  ii. 

1  Dr.  Shaw  '  complains  of  his  friend  Dr.  Pococke  being  so  mean  as  to  publickly 
object  to  his  book  without  first  telling  him  of  it,  and  says  he  ...  held  the  torch 
for  Dr.  Pococke  in  his  travels.' 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xxxix 

Pinkerton'1s  General  Collection  of  .  .  .  Voyages,  etc.  A 
Description  of  the  East,  vol.  x.,  1808.  4°.  Travels  in  Egypt., 
volxv.,  1808.  4°. 

Dr.  Pococke^s  great  work  being  now  published  and  out  of  the 
author's  hand,  he  is  represented  as  having  had  a  desire  to 
dismiss  the  subject,  if  we  can  credit  Richard  Cumberland^ 
brief  allusion  to  him  in  his  Memoirs :  '  That  celebrated 
Oriental  traveller,  and  author,1  he  says,  '  was  a  man  of  mild 
manners  and  primitive  simplicity.  Having  given  the  world  a 
full  detail  of  his  researches  in  Egypt,  he  seemed  to  hold  him- 
self excused  from  saying  any  more  about  them,  and  observed 
in  general  an  obdurate  taciturnity.  In  his  carriage  and  deport- 
ment he  seemed  to  have  contracted  something  of  the  Arab 
character,  yet  there  was  no  austerity  in  his  silence,  and  though 
his  air  was  solemn,  his  temper  was  serene.' 

This  obduracy  of  character  is  scarcely  borne  out  by  other 
evidences ;  rather  we  find  him  frequently  making  pleasing  com- 
parisons between  places  in  Britain  and  Egypt  and  the  Holy 
Land.  Thus,  as  we  shall  see  in  his  Tours  Through  Scotland, 
he  compared  the  rocks  near  Cape  Wrath  to  the  granite  of 
which  the  statues  of  Memnon  are  made ; x  Ben  Vheir  to  Mount 
Tabor ; 2  the  appearance  of  Dingwall  was  not  unlike  Jerusalem,3 
and  a  hill  near  that  town  resembled  Calvary ;  a  cave  near 
Brora  in  Sutherland  was  like  those  about  Bethlehem,4  and  a 
mount  near  Cromarty  rose  like  Olivet 5  over  Jerusalem.  Bishop 
Forbes  records  that  Mr.  Sutherland  6  of  Wester  Caithness  had 
a  lengthy  conversation  with  Dr.  Pococke,  in  which  they  com- 
pared notes  of  the  various  places  in  the  East  which  they  had  seen. 
Indeed  he  rather  appeared  to  have  had  a  justifiable  pride  in  his 
travels  and  work  as  an  author,  for  we  find  him  frequently 
making  presents  of  the  two  volumes  to  distinguished  friends, 
sometimes  ordering  them  to  be  elegantly  bound. 

The   Earl   of  Chesterfield   promoted   him   in   1745  to  the 

1  P.  125.      -  P.  97.       3  P.  108.      4  P.  165.      5  P.  175.      6  P.  162. 


xl  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Archdeaconry  of  Dublin ;  his  patent  is  dated  Jan.  28,  he  was 
instituted  Jan.  31,  and  installed  at  St.  Patrick's  on  Feb.  1st,  and 
at  Christ  Church  on  Feb.  3rd. 

In  the  midst  of  his  ecclesiastical  duties  we  find  the  Arch- 
deacon this  year  gathering  information  for  a  journey  to  Scotland. 
He  desired  pastures  new,  fresh  fields  for  inquiry,  a  different 
direction  in  which  to  expend  his  restless  energies.  Having 
visited  foreign  lands,  he  evidently  thought  there  were  some  things 
worth  seeing  nearer  home.  Amongst  those  from  whom  he  de- 
sired suggestions  was  the  celebrated  archaeologist,  Dr.  Stukeley, 
who  most  probably  had  been  the  recipient  of  an  author's  copy 
of  A  Description  of  the  East,  and  had  returned  the  compliment 
by  sending  Dr.  Pococke  a  copy  of  Stonelienge,  which  the  follow- 
ing letter  acknowledges — 

To  Dr.  W.  STUKLEY,  M.D.,  F.R.S.,  F.S.A. 

LONDON,  June  7.  1745.     RAWTHMELL'S  COFFEE-HOUSE, 
HENRIETTA-STREET,  COVENT  GARDEN. 

DEAR  SIR, — Soon  after  my  return  from  Ireland,  I  received  the 
favour  of  your  kind  present  of  "  Stonehenge";  which  will  be  a 
great  ornament  of  my  library,  and  a  particular  honour,  as  it  comes 
from  the  Author ;  and  I  do  return  you  my  hearty  thanks  for  it. 

I  am  going  again  to  Ireland,  in  the  month  of  August,  having 
the  honour  to  wait  on  the  Lord  Lieutenant  as  his  Domestic 
Chaplain.  If  at  any  time  you  have  any  commands  in  that  country, 
you  will  do  me  a  particular  pleasure  if  you  will  honour  me  with 
them.  As  I  hope  sometimes  to  come  to  England,  so  I  have  not 
laid  aside  my  thoughts  of  a  Northern  journey  ;  which  I  shall 
undertake  with  greater  satisfaction,  as  I  am  sure  you  will  favour 
me  with  all  the  hints  you  can  give ;  and  I  shall  not  despise  even 
Scotland,  and  the  Orkney  Islands,  where  I  expect  to  meet  with 
something  curious,  at  least  in  relation  to  their  customs  and 
manners ;  and  I  shall  be  greatly  obliged  to  you  if  you  will  mark 
anything  down  for  me  which  you  meet  with  in  your  reading. 
Pray  my  compliments  to  your  lady,  and  family. — I  am,  Dear  Sir, 
your  most  obedient  humble  servant,  RICHARD  POCOCKE. 

Dr.  Pococke's  journeys  to  and  from  Ireland  must  have  been 
very  frequent ;  and  Cumberland,  in  the  Memoir  already  referred 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xli 

to,  gives  a  sketch  of  him  which  is  more  likely  to  be  correct  than 
his  former  description  was : —  • 

'  When  we  were  on  our  road  to  Ireland,  I  saw  from  the  Windows 
of  the  inn  at  Daventry,  Cornwall,  a  cavalcade  of  horsemen  ap- 
proaching on  a  gentle  trot,  headed  by  an  elderly  chief  in  clerical 
attire,  who  was  followed  by  five  servants,  at  distances  geometrically 
measured,  and  most  precisely  maintained,  and  who  upon  entering 
the  inn,  proved  to  be  this  distinguished  prelate,  conducting  his 
horde  with  the  phlegmatic  patience  of  a  Scheik.' 

Archdeacon  Pococke,  on  returning  to  Dublin,  held  a  visitation 
at  St.  Patrick's  in  1746,  which  perhaps  is  the  latest  of  such 
visitations  on  record  in  Ireland. 

This  year  was  an  eventful  one.  The  political  interest  was 
centred  in  Scotland,  where  the  last  scene  in  the  drama  of  civil 
war  in  great  Britain  was  being  enacted.  Dr.  Pococke  doubtless 
watched  the  progress  of  the  royal  army  with  the  keenest 
anxiety,  and  at  the  same  time  shrewdly  gathered  from  the 
military  news  any  item  which  might  prove  of  interest  on  his 
proposed  visit  to  Scotland. 

His  sympathies  were  of  course  with  the  reigning  family ; 
and  when  fatal  Culloden  sealed  for  ever  the  hopes  of  the 
Stuarts,  and  Bonnie  Prince  Charlie  had  fled  into  exile,  we 
can  imagine  his  reverent  satisfaction,  judging  from  his  remarks 
when  he  subsequently  visited  the  battlefield :  '  Thus  ended 
this  day  of  such  consequence  to  the  British  Dominions,  and 
crowned  the  Duke  with  immortal  laurels.' l 

It  appears  to  have  been  generally  known  amongst  his  anti- 
quarian and  scientific  friends  that  he  was  about  to  make  a 
northern  journey,  and  as  he  expressed  it  to  Dr.  Stukeley,  he 
would  not  despise  even  Scotland  and  the  Orkney  Islands.  His 
long-wished-for  visit  was  about  to  be  realised,  to  a  country 
of  which  he  must  have  heard  many  a  quaint  story  in  his 
grandfather's  barns  when  a  boy — for  even  the  Scotch  pedlars 

1  P.  108. 


xlii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

who  travelled  into  England  resorted  to  Highclere  parsonage, 
and  had  their  packs  safely  lodged  there,  and  themselves  in  the 
barns  or  outhouses,  where  Mr.  Milles  would  himself  take  care 
that  they  had  plenty  of  clean  straw  and  wholesome  refresh- 
ment. Having  procured  a  number  of  letters  of  introduction, 
as  was  his  wont,  he  started  on  his  first  northern  journey  in  the 
autumn  of  1747.  Reaching  Penrith,  he  writes  :  '  I  laid  in  the 
bed  the  Pretender  lay  in.1  At  Carlisle  he  visited  the  castle, 
having  as  his  open-sesame  '  a  letter  to  the  storekeeper  of  the 
castle  written  by  the  Duke  of  Montague's  order.1  During  the 
progress  of  this  journey  he  wrote  to  Emanuel  Mendez  Da 
Costa,  Foreign  Secretary  to  the  Royal  Society,  about  fossils. 
Mr.  Da  Costa  seems  to  have  been  a  most  exact  man,  keeping 
scrolls  of  his  letters,  from  which,  after  many  corrections,  the 
final  copy  would  be  written.  We  are  indebted  to  his  scrolls 
for  the  following  letter.  It  is  interesting  not  only  as  showing 
the  respect  in  which  Dr.  Pococke  was  held,  but  how  thoroughly 
he  was  able  to  enlist  the  interest  and  assistance  of  others  in 
his  favourite  pursuits. 

Revd  Dr.  RICHARD  POCOCKE,  ARCHDEACON  OF  DUBLIN, 
Ansd  1st  January  I7|f. 

ADAMS  COURT  IN  BROAD  STREET 

BEHIND  THE  ROYAL  EXCHANGE 

LONDON,  19  September  1747. 

Sin, — I  recd  the  Letter  you  did  me  the  honour  to  write  me, 
acquainting  me  of  the  desire  you  had  that  I  should  send  those 
Specimens  of  fossils  &c.  I  purposed  for  you  to  Mr.  Mathers,  to  be 
sent  with  your  footman  to  Ireland. 

As  the  place  you  wrote  from  was  not  specified  in  the  Letter  I 
could  not  acquaint  you  by  an  answer  that  your  desires  were  always 
a  pleasure  to  me  :  And  in  consequence  thereof,  with  this  I  have 
deliverd  Mr.  Mathers  with  2  parcells  conts  the  fossils  of  wch  the 
annext  is  a  Catalogue,  wch  I  hope  you  '11  rank  as  a  mark  of  my 
esteem  for  the  friendship  you  honour  me  with. 

There  are  as  you'll  find  2  spec:  of  small  shells,  wcb  you  had 
formerly  desired,  and  were  laid  by  for  you,  but  could  not  send 
you  any  other  sorts,  being  very  poor  in  duplicates  of  Shells. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xliii 

These  fossils  were  all  the  present  time  I  have  would  permit  me 
to  send  you  ;  but  assure  yourself  Sr  the  pleasure  you  do  me  by 
your  friendship,  will  always  recall  you  to  my  mind,  to  keep  by 
duplicates  for  you  of  what  may  come  to  my  hands  :  and  send 
them  you  as  opportunitys  offer. 

I  take  the  liberty  Sr  to  Recommend  myself  to  your  thoughts 
for  what  duplicates  of  Natural  History  you  may  have  to  spare,  of 
the  Collections  you  make  in  the  Travels  you  are  on.  Scotland  is 
full  of  curious  things,  and  as  they  have  not  been  much  searched 
into,  doubt  not  but  with  the  fund  of  Knowledge  &  Industry  we 
know  you  possessd  of  you  will,  if  I  may  use  the  Metaphor,  be  a 
Columbus  in  New  discoveries  of  the  fossil  World,  and  other  parts 
of  Natural  History. 

The  Western  Islands  I  hear  you  intend  to  visit.  Mr.  Martin  & 
he  only  has  given  us  an  Ace*  of  those  Islands  interspersed  wtla 
some  particulars  of  their  Natural  History ;  by  wct  I  observe  they 
abound  in  Curious  things  of  all  kinds.  Your  Philosophical  searches 
there,  I  do  not  doubt,  will  abundantly  make  us  acquainted  wth 
them,  of  wch  at  present  we  only  know  they  exist. 

Had  my  time  permitted  me  I  should  have  boldly  (relying  on 
your  goodness  for  Pardon)  flung  into  this  letter  some  N.  Bene  & 
Instructions  of  things  I  have  read  of  for  your  examination :  but  if 
you  permit,  &  will  favour  me  with  your  full  direction,  I  shall 
reserve  that  for  a  future  letter. 

I  desire  Sr  that  if  you  want  anything  done  in  this  Metropolis 
wch  I  can  be  the  Actor  of,  youd  freely  command  me  by  Letter :  & 
should  any  Obs:  offer,  wch  you  '11  be  so  good  to  participate  to  me, 
my  greatest  thanks  will  attend  them. 

I  shall  close  this  letter  with  my  Prayers  to  the  Almighty  being 
who  preserved  you  hitherto  in  your  Travels  through  the  Arabian 
&  the  deserts  of  Sin,  and  other  the  Eastern  Parts  of  the  World,  to 
also  preserve  you  health  &  pleasure  through  the  bleak  Northern 
parts  you  are  now  visiting,  that  I  may  again  congratulate  you  on 
your  Return. — I  am  Sr  with  all  Esteem  your  Obliged 

[EMANUEL  M.  DA  COSTA.] 

The  gossipy  letter  to  his  mother  (then  about  70)  which  is 
the  first  letter  of  this  volume  of  Tours,  forms  a  striking  con- 
trast to  all  the  subsequent  ones,  which  are  strictly  topo- 
graphical, scarcely  ever  unbending  to  make  even  a  personal 
allusion.  The  MS.  accounts  which  appear  to  have  been 


xliv  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

written  concurrently  with  the  letter  were  probably  descrip- 
tive, like  the  others,  and  are  not  known  to  exist ;  most  likely 
they  were  incorporated  in  his  1760  tour  when  traversing 
the  same  ground,  and  afterwards  destroyed.  During  this 
holiday  trip  of  a  month's  duration  he  first  visited  Berwick, 
thence  he  rode  to  Edinburgh,  and  after  a  short  stay  in 
Stirling  and  Glasgow,  travelled  by  the  old  coach  road  to 
Portpatrick,  where  he  embarked  for  Ireland. 

Pues  Occurrences  records  that  '  Last  Tuesday  [3  Nov.  1747] 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Pococke,  Archdeacon  of  Dublin,  arrived  here 
[Dublin]  from  Great  Britain.'  The  lateness  of  the  season 
and  the  unsettled  state  of  the  Highlands  probably  deterred 
him  from  attempting  to  go  further  north  than  Stirling,  and 
Orkney  had  still  to  remain  terra  incognita. 

The  outstanding  incidents  of  this  tour  are  his  visits  to  the 
Earl  of  Hopetoun1  and  short  stay  there,  and  his  being 
presented  with  the  freedom  of  Glasgow.1  On  returning  to 
Dublin  he  loses  no  time  in  making  a  round  of  calls  on  the 
chief  ecclesiastics  and  elite  of  the  city — Dr.  Cobbe,  Archbishop 
of  Dublin  ;  Dr.  Stone,  The  Primate,  Archbishop  of  Armagh ; 
Mr.  Speaker  Boyle  (afterwards  Earl  of  Shannon) ;  Dr.  Downes, 
the  Bishop  of  Femes ;  the  Lord  Mayor,  Sir  George  Ribton ; 
Mrs.  Reynell,  wife  of  Dr.  Henry  Reynell,  Precentor  of  Connor, 
etc.2 

In  1750  he  made  an  extensive  tour  through  the  Northern 
Counties  of  England,  and  just  visited  the  borderland  of  Scot- 
land. The  letter  (also  addressed  to  his  mother)  descriptive 
of  this  visit  forms  the  Second  Tour  in  the  present  volume. 

Every  year  Dr.  Pococke  appears  to  have  mapped  out  a 
district  in  England  or  Ireland  for  investigation;  and  whilst 
his  friends  were  spending  their  holiday  stalking  the  deer  or 
following  the  grouse,  he  was  wending  his  solitary  steps  amidst 

'P.  3- 

2  Communicated  by  the  Rev.  William  Reynell,  B.D.,  Dublin;  a  kinsman  of 
the  Precentor  of  Connor. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xlv 

ruined  abbeys  and  castles,  inquiring  into  their  history- — into 
their  glory  in  the  days  of  other  years. 

About  this  time  was  published  Dean  Milles  and  Dr. 
Pococke's  Inscriptionum  Antiquarum  Graec.  et  Latin  liber. 
Accidit  numismatum  .  .  .  in  Aegypto  cusorum  .  .  .  catalogus 
(Inscriptionum  Antiquarum  liber  alter  a  J.  Milles  et  R.  P.  .  .  . 
exscript  [London]  1752,  folio). 

Among  Da  Costa's  scrolls  is  an  example  of  one  of  the  letters 
of  recommendation  he  gave  our  traveller  on  the  occasion  of  his 
visiting  Cornwall — 

Revd  W.  BORLASE, 

DEAR  SIR, — The  Bearer  of  this  is  the  Rev.  Dr.  R.  Pococke  a 
Gent,  well  known  to  the  Learned  World,  &  whom  I  have  the 
honour  to  recommend  to  you,  as  said  Gentn  is  now  making  a 
Western  Tour  [England]  I  beg  you  will  do  me  the  favour  to  show 
him  and  acquaint  him  of  what  is  curious  in  your  country.  I 
remain  with  great  esteem  and  respect  Dear  Sir  your  very  obliged 

[EMANUEL  M.  DA  COSTA.] 

There  can  be  little  doubt  Dr.  Pococke  enjoyed  a  large  corre- 
spondence with  the  leading  savans  of  his  day ;  very  few  of  his 
letters,  however,  have  been  preserved.  The  following  is  par- 
ticularly interesting  as  containing  the  observation  from  which  he 
has  been  credited  with  the  architectural  discovery  of  the  origin 
of  the  Gothic  Arch,  a  statement  as  unlikely  as  it  is  inaccurate. 
In  this  letter,  and  throughout  his  writings,  he,  in  common  with 
most  of  the  writers  of  that  period,  confounds  the  terms  Saxon 
and  Norman.  In  almost  every  case  it  is  the  latter  style  that  is 
referred  to — the  rounded  arch,  examples  of  the  Saxon  style 
being  extremely  rare : — 

To  Dr.  DUCAREL. 

DUBLIN,  Aug.  27,  1753. 

DEAR  SIR, — I  received  the  favour  of  your  letter  of  the  21st 
with  great  pleasure,  in  relation  to  the  Bishop  of  Clogher's  book, 
and  the  description  of  the  North-east  parts.  I  fear  no  person  will 
be  found  fit  for  the  journey  to  the  Wilderness  that  would  under- 


xlvi  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

take  it.  If  Swinton  [The  Rev.  Dr.  John  Swinton  of  Oxford]  were 
not  married,  he  would  be  a  very  proper  man,  as  his  talent  lies 
that  way. 

I  never  heard  of  the  book  you  mention,  and  should  be  very 
glad  to  see  it.  If  you  could  send  it  to  Mr.  Ball,  at  the  Duke  of 
Dorset's,  with  my  compliments,  and  request  to  him  to  bring  it 
over,  I  should  be  obliged  to  you  ;  but  it  must  be  done  immediately, 
for  the  Duke  sets  out  on  the  2d  of  September.  If  you  should  be 
too  late,  and  could  be  informed  of  Mr.  Gustavus  Brander,  a 
Swedish  merchant,  in  White  Lion-coui't,  beyond  the  Royal  Ex- 
change, Cornhill,  whether  he  sends  any  thing  to  me ;  in  case  he 
does,  he  will  convey  it  to  me. 

You  do  not  mention  what  kind  of  character  they  are ; — the 
Runick  are  most  to  be  suspected. 

I  should  have  been  glad  of  some  hint  what  kind  of  buildings 
the  Norman  are,  and  whether  you  are  sure  those  you  mention 
were  built  before  the  Conquest.  We  know  what  the  Saxon  build- 
ings are ;  but  what  I  want  to  be  informed  is,  from  what  part  the 
style  of  our  Gothic  buildings  came,  for  the  English  built  many 
fabrics  in  France  after  the  Conquest,  and  these  are  to  be  looked 
on  as  of  the  same  rank  as  ours.  What  puzzles  is  ;  the  Saxon 
style  continued  certainly  after  the  Gothic  was  brought  in,  so  that 
we  cannot  judge  of  the  time  by  the  style  of  building  in  that 
respect.  I  believe  I  observed  to  you  that  the  original  of  the 
Gothic  arch  is  two  arches  intersecting,  that  is  visible  at  Christ 
Church  in  Hampshire.  I  shall  be  very  glad  to  see  your  observa- 
tions, and  am  obliged  to  you  for  thinking  of  me.  I  shall  be  glad 
to  know  what  that  very  learned  Antiquary  Dr.  Lyttelton,  Dean  of 
Exeter,  thinks  on  that  subject.  I  shall  at  all  times  be  glad  to 
hear  from  you,  and  am  in  haste,  going  out  of  town  for  a  few  days, 
— With  great  regard,  Sir, 
Your  most  obedient  humble  servant,  RICHARD  POCOCKE. 

We  have  already  seen  a  letter  to  Dr.  Stukeley.  This  learned 
antiquary,  keeping  in  remembrance  the  request  to  note  down 
anything  which  might  be  useful  on  the  Northern  travels,  had 
sent  a  book,  for  which  the  following  is  an  acknowledgment : — 

DUBLIN,  yaw.  3,  1754. 

DEAR  SIR, — I  received  the  favour  of  your  letter,  and  of  the  book 
of  the  Northern  History,  for  which  I  return  you  my  hearty  thanks. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xlvii 

I  long  to  see  your  account  of  the  Norman  Antiquities.  The 
County  of  Kerry  is  not  yet  come  out ;  I  will  take  care  and  get  it 
for  you.  Simon  has  not  published  any  addition  to  his  Irish  Coins, 
nor  have  I  heard  of  any  such  intention,  but  I  will  ask  him.  I  am 
sorry  to  hear  Dr.  Mead  is  in  so  declining  a  way ; — his  collection 
ought  to  be  bought  by  the  publick,  and  added  to  Sir  Hans  Sloane*s. 
There  is  nothing  whatsoever  doing  here  in  the  literary  way. 
Turning  over  my  papers,  I  found  an  inscription  taken  off  from  a 
stone  in  Mr.  Ame's  possession.  Some  of  the  letters  a  little 
resemble  your  Northern  inscriptions.  It  was  brought  from  Alex- 
andria in  Egypt  in  1726,  and  was  found  buried  in  the  sands  there. 

With  the  best  wishes  of  the  season,  I  am,  dear  Sir,  your  most 
obedient  humble  servant.  RICHARD  POCOCKE. 

In  1756  the  Archdeacon  received  an  important  preferment. 
He  was  appointed  to  the  Bishopric  of  Ossory,  then  vacant  by 
the  death  of  Bishop  Maurice.  His  elevation  to  the  episcopate 
was  due  to  Lord-Lieutenant  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  and  it 
was  fraught  with  the  happiest  consequences  to  the  diocese  of 
Ossory,  in  which  Dr.  Pococke's  memory  is  still  green.  No 
sooner  was  he  settled  in  the  palace  of  Kilkenny  than  his 
observant  and  experienced  eye  saw  that  the  beautiful  Cathedral 
Church  of  St.  Canice  would  soon,  if  not  renovated,  be  a  pile  of 
ruins  similar  to  hundreds  of  others  he  had  seen  in  his  travels. 
An  entry  in  the  chapter-books,  llth  June  1757,  shows  that 
on  coming  to  Kilkenny  he  immediately  began  the  work  of 
restoration.1  The  thanks  of  the  chapter  are  awarded  to  him 
for  a  gift  of  fifty  guineas  towards  the  improving  and  adorning 
of  the  inside  of  the  choir.  On  the  30th  of  July  following,  the 
chapter  agreed  to  give  thirty  guineas  annually  until  the  work 
was  completed.  It  must  be  confessed  the  improvements  were 
not  in  the  best  of  taste,  as  they  were  mostly  in  Ionic  style, 
whereas  the  Cathedral  is  Gothic ;  but  this  was  rather  the  fault 
of  the  age  than  of  the  man,  and  probably  but  for  him  the 
Cathedral  would  have  been  past  restoration. 

1  Communicated  by  the  Right  Rev.  W.  Pakenham  Walsh,  D.D.,  Lord  Bishop 
of  Ossory. 

d 


xlviii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

A  slab  of  black  Kilkenny  marble  was  placed  in  the  northern 
transept  of  the  Cathedral  at  the  time  of  Bishop  Pococke's 
restorations.  Amongst  the  contributions  to  the  Repair  Fund 
of  the  Cathedral,  his  name  appears  on  the  tablet  for  one 
hundred  guineas. 

In  another  part  of  the  Cathedral  there  is  a  stone  on  which  is 
cut  the  following  .inscription,  believed  to  have  been  written  by 

this  prelate — 

HANC1 

BASILICAM 

VETUSTATE 

LABESCENTEM 

RESTITUERUNT 

ORNARUNT 
OSSORIENSES 

ANNO 
MDCCLXIII 

The  Bishop's  curious  eye  was  quick  to  discover  bits  of  the 
stained  glass  that  once  filled  the  grand  east  window  lying 
scattered  about,  and  which  had  lain  unheeded  for  a  century ; 
these  he  placed  in  a  window  over  the  west  door.  The  original 
window  appeared  so  precious  a  work  of  art  that  it  was  coveted 
by  Rinuccini,  the  Pope's  nuncio,  who  offered  Bishop  Roth  and 
the  chapter  =£"700  for  it,  as  he  desired  to  carry  it  to  Italy,  surely 
a  great  price  in  those  days  (about  1645).  The  offer  was 
refused,  and  the  window  left,  but  only  to  be  utterly  destroyed 
by  the  vandalism  of  Cromwell's  soldiers. 

He  built  a  colonnade  leading  from  the  door  of  the  north 
transept  to  the  entrance  into  the  palace  garden.  It  was  in  the 
Tuscan  style,  and  in  the  carrying  out  of  more  recent  and  correct 
improvements  was  removed,  as  it  concealed  this  very  remarkable 
door  of  the  Cathedral. 

He  also  presented  a  rich  cover  for  the  communion  table — 

1  The  people  of  Ossory  restored  and  adorned  this  church,  falling  into  decay 
from  old  age,  A.D.  1763. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  xlix 

purple  and  gold — and  placed  over  it  the  painting  of  a  '  glory/ 
which  he  brought  from  Italy.  The  latter  is  still  preserved  in 
the  chapter-room. 

The  Bishop  caused  all  the  old  monuments  in  St.  Canice's 
Cathedral  to  be  repaired  and  arranged,  though  not  all  in  their 
original  position,  and  employed  John  OThelan,  '  a  learned  and 
ingenious  man,1  who  kept  a  school  in  Kilkenny,  to  copy  all  the 
existing  inscriptions.  This  MS.  was  afterwards  printed  by  Dr. 
Peter  Shee,  entitled  Inscriptions  on  the  Tombs  in  St.  Canice's. 
It  is  illustrated  by  plates,  which  were  drawn  by  a  self-taught 
Kilkenny  artist  named  Coffey,  and  etched  by  William  Maxton, 
a  private  soldier  belonging  to  a  regiment  then  quartered  in 
Kilkenny.  The  original  MS.  was  recently  in  the  possession  of 
that  learned  antiquary,  the  late  Rev.  James  Graves,  A.M., 
Rector  of  Inisnaig,  diocese  of  Ossory. 

During  the  three  or  four  years  following  his  settlement  in 
Kilkenny  Bishop  Pococke  found  much  to  occupy  his  attention 
in  his  diocese,  with  intervals  for  the  study  of  Irish  antiquities 
and  ecclesiastical  remains.1  Thus  in  1757  he  communicated 
'An  Account  of  some  Antiquities  found  in  Ireland1  to  the 
London  Society  of  Antiquaries,  and  after  his  death  it  was 
published  in  the  second  volume  of  The  Archceologia,  1773, 
together  with  plates  of  twelve  gold  ornaments.  In  that  paper 
the  Bishop  alludes  to  a  communication  on  Irish  golden  antiqui- 
ties made  in  1747  by  Mr.  Simon  2  of  Dublin.  The  MS.  of  the 
latter  paper  was  found  in  the  archives  of  the  Society,  and  was 
communicated  to  the  Royal  Irish  Academy  on  Feb.  10,  1862, 
by  Mr.  W.  R.  Wilde,  V.P. 

All  the  literature  relating  to  Scotland  which  he  could  com- 
mand had  been  carefully  digested — Bede,  Anglo-Saxon  Chro- 
nicles, Camden,  Buchanan;  Sacheverell's  Isle  of  Man  and  lona  ,• 
Dean  Munro's  and  Martin's  Western  Isles ;  Gordon's  Itinerarium 
Septentrionale ;  De  Foe's  and  Mackay's  Journeys ;  Richard  of 
Cirencester's  Itinerary,  etc.  He  now  felt  himself  fully  informed 
1  Communicated  by  Dr.  W.  Frazer,  Dublin.  2  P.  xlvii. 


1  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

and  equipped  for  his  extensive  tour  through  Scotland,  and  for 
realising  his  long-cherished  wish  of  visiting  the  Orkneys.  He 
left  his  palace  in  Kilkenny  on  the  12th  April,  and  visited  Eirke 
by  the  way,  where  he  discharged  the  last  ecclesiastical  duty 
required  of  him,  as  recorded  in  Pues  Occurrences,  Kilkenny, 
April  14,  1760.  '  Sunday  last  [April  13]  Mr.  Francis  Warden 
Flood  was  ordained  a  Deacon  in  the  Parish  Church  of  Eirke  by 
the  Right  Rev.  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Ossory.' 

He  then  went  by*  Dublin  en  route  for  Donaghadee,  where  he 
embarked  for  Scotland,  accompanied  by  his  two  servants,  a 
valet  and  groom.  Landing  in  Portpatrick  on  30th  April,  he 
started  on  his  six  months1  tour.  Immediately  he  commenced 
letter-writing,  and  seems  to  have  literally  written  whilst  he  rode. 
Having  landed  on  soil  sacred  with  memories  of  St.  Ninian,  he 
went  in  search  of  the  site  of  the  City  of  Leucopibia,  and  Bede's 
traditional  Candida  Casa,  and  appears  to  have  been  well  satis- 
fied with  his  investigations. 

A  few  days  later  he  is  at  work  sketching  the  ruined  Abbey 
of  Dundrennan,  and  has  favoured  us  with  a  cartoon  of  himself1 
interrogating  a  rustic,  who  with  doffed  hat  is  respectfully  but 
earnestly  describing  what  little  he  knew  of  the  venerable 
remains. 

After  visiting  the  south-western  counties,  he  crossed  the  border 
into  England,  and  spent  a  week  revisiting  some  places  he  had 
seen  in  1747  and  1750.  Returning  into  Scotland,  he  travelled 
on  through  Clydesdale  to  Glasgow,  finding  along  his  route 
abundant  employment  for  his  pen.  Glasgow  he  had  seen  in 
1747,  then  a  city  of  about  20,000  inhabitants ;  but  as  he  pro- 
ceeded northwards  along  the  western  banks  of  Loch  Lomond  all 
was  new.  Reaching  Inveraray  he  trended  still  westwards,  bent 
on  a  pilgrimage  to  I-Colm-Kill — the  sacred  Isle  of  the  West. 

There  is  a  little  circumstance  connected  with  the  Bishop's 
visit  to  this  illustrious  island  which  may  not  be  too  trifling  to 
notice. 

1  P.  12. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  li 

It  will  have  been  observed  that  the  first  and  second  letters 
addressed  to  his  mother  are  commenced  in  somewhat  stiff  and 
unfilial  terms,  '  Honoured  Madam,'  although  the  concluding 
sentence  of  the  first  letter,  '  Pray  give  my  very  kind  love  to  my 
sister,'  shows  that  he  was  not  devoid  of  affection.  All  the 
letters  to  his  sister  up  to  the  one  descriptive  of  lona  commenced 
'  Dear  Madam,1  but  afterwards  invariably  '  Dear  Sister.'  Had 
his  heart  been  touched,  or  his  affection  grown  more  tender, 
amidst  the  ruins  of  lona — had  he  felt  impressed  by  changeful 
time  and  a  forgotten  past  ?  Or  had  he  felt  a  sense  of  loneliness, 
deepening  into  sadness,  and,  thinking  of  his  sister,  soliloquised^ — 

'  What  dost  thou  now  ?     Beside  the  hearth,  no  doubt, 
The  map  is  spread,  your  eye  pursues  my  route  ; 
You  say,  "  Where  is  he  ?  may  each  place  supply 
Kind  service,  and  some  heart  that  loves  and  cares?"' 

Turning  his  back  on  St.  Columba's  Isle,  the  Bishop  proceeded 
northwards  through  the  wilds  of  Lochaber,  following  the  road 
made  by  General  Wade,  and,  sailing  down  Loch  Ness,  reached 
Inverness,  where  he  visited  the  tragic  field  of  Culloden.  The 
battle,  having  taken  place  only  fourteen  years  previously,  would 
be  fresh  in  the  memories  of  those  from  whom  he  gathered  his 
information  respecting  it. 

Travelling  northwards  through  Easter  Ross,  he  entered 
Sutherland,  and  penetrated  through  the  midland  wilds  and 
morasses  to  the  famous  Broch  Dun  Dornadilla. 

'  Dun  Dhornghil  mac  Dhuibhe 
Air  an  taobh  ris  an  ear  do  'n  t-srath.' 

Perhaps  the  accounts  of  lona  and  Sutherland  are  the  most 
interesting  and  valuable  of  the  Bishop's  Journals. 

Proceeding  from  Cape  Wrath  to  Thurso  along  the  north 
coast,  he  was  ready  to  embark  for  the  Orkneys. 

His  cotemporary,  Bishop  Forbes,  has  preserved  a  pen-picture 
of  Dr.  Pococke  which  differs  from  Cumberland's  opinion  already 
quoted,  and  represents  him  rather  as  a  pleasant,  genial,  jocular 


lii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

man,  able  to  adapt  himself  to  every  circumstance  and  society 
— qualities  essential  to  a  traveller. 

The  Doctor  had  been  the  guest  of  Mr.  Murray  of  Pennyland, 
near  Thurso,  and  '  had  dined  and  ate  heartily  of  fried  chicken, 
and  liked  it  so  well  that  he  desired  to  have  a  receipt  for  dress- 
ing of  it,  as  there  is  no  such  dish  in  England  or  Ireland. 
There  was  another  Dish,  which  he  took  to  be  Enammelet,  but 
it  happened  to  be  toasted  Ears.  "  Toasted  ears  !"  said  he ; 
"  what  is  that  ?"  "  Why,11  said  Mr.  Murray,  "  the  Ears  of  a 
Calf  toasted  on  Bread."  He  liked  it  much.  But  what  sur- 
prized him  most  of  all  was  the  fine  Wheat-Bread  he  ate  here, 
of  which  he  said  he  had  not  got  any  since  he  came  into  Strath- 
naver,  through  which  he  travelled  in  his  way  to  Caithness ;  and 
he  begged  to  know  how  they  came  by  it.  When  they  told  him 
it  was  baked  in  a  Pot,  he  was  amazed,  insomuch  that  it  be- 
hoved them  to  assure  him  it  was  so,  before  he  could  believe  it ; 
and  he  declared  he  had  never  ate  better  all  his  Life ;  and  so 
plentifully  did  he  take  of  it,  that  Mr.  Murray  jokingly  said, 
"  Stop,  my  Lord,  else  your  Lordship  will  raise  a  Famine  in  ye 
Country  ;"  which  pleased  him  so  well,  that  he  called  to  his  own 
Servant,  "  John,  pray,  give  me  t'other  cut  of  that  fine  Loaf." 
And,  when  he  came  to  Wick,  he  desired  his  Servant  to  see  if 
he  could  have  a  Loaf  baked  in  a  Pot  to  take  along  with  them. 
He  had  two  Servants,  viz.,  a  Valet  and  a  Groom.1 1 

We  are  indebted  also  to  Bishop  Forbes  for  the  statement  that 
the  Doctor  was  accompanied  by  two  servants. 

Thence  he  sailed  to  Orkney,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  his  long- 
cherished  wishes.  Here  he  found  much  to  occupy  his  pen  and 
pencil — the  Dwarfie  Stone,  the  larger  and  smaller  groups  of 
Standing  Stones  at  Stennis,  the  Cathedral  and  the  Palace  at 
Kirkwall. 

Returning  to  the  mainland,  he  continued  his  travels  south 
through  the  eastern  counties,  scarcely  omitting  to  visit  and 
describe  any  one  of  the  many  abbeys,  ruins,  or  places  of  in- 
1  Bp.  Forbes's  Journals,  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  200. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  liii 

terest   on  his  route.     At  Elgin  he  was  much  impressed  with 
its  beautiful  Cathedral. 

'  Bishop  Pococke  was  the  only  Bishop  of  the  Church  of  England, 
since  the  Revolution,  that  preached  and  confirmed  in  Scotland 
when  Episcopacy  was  there  abolished.  For  in  the  summer  of  1760, 
this  prelate  made  a  journey  from  Ireland  to  the  north  parts  of  it, 
viewing  everything  that  was  curious,  and  carrying  away  with  him 
a  variety  of  fossils,  stones,  minerals,  and  other  natural  curiosities. 
He  preached  and  confirmed  in  the  English  Church  in  Elgin,  and 
continued  to  do  so  in  every  other  of  that  persuasion  which  he  had 
occasion  to  be  near,  greatly  regarded  and  esteemed  by  all  ranks 
and  degrees  of  people.' — The  Cambridge  Chronicle,  October  5,  1765. 

At  Aberdeen  he  was  received  with  every  mark  of  respect, 
not  only  by  the  Episcopal  clergy  but  by  the  Professors  of  the 
two  Universities  and  the  civil  authorities.  His  biographer  is 
indebted  to  the  accurately  kept  Town  Council  Records  for  the 
account  of  his  admission  as  an  Honorary  Citizen  of  Aberdeen. 

Aberdoniae  Quarto  die  Mensis  Augusti  Anno  Domini  1760,  In 
praesentia  Magistratum. 

Quo  die  Reverendus  admodum  in  Christo  Pater  Richardus 
Miseratione  Divina,  Dominus  Episcopus  Ossoriensis,  Municeps  et 
Frater  Guildae  praefati  Burgi  de  Aberdeen,  In  deditissimi  amoris 
et  affectus  ac  Eximae  observantiae  Tesseram  quibus  dicti  Magis- 
tratus  ilium  amplectuntur,  Receptus  et  admissus  fuit. 

Conformably  with  the  time-honoured  custom,  the  new 
Freeman  would  wear  the  parchment  and  seal  in  his  hat  for  one 
day. 

Glasgow,  Perth,  Lanark,  Forres,  Nairn,  Dornoch,  did  him 
the  like  honour  of  presenting  him  with  a  Burgess  Ticket,  but 
failed  to  record  the  presentations  in  their  Minutes. 

Pennant,  the  traveller,  in  1772  also  received  the  freedom  of 
Glasgow  and  Perth  ;  but  we  have  it  only  on  his  own  testimony, 
the  respective  cities  not  having  recorded  it. 

We  cannot  follow  the  Bishop  in  his  journeyings  so  closely 
as  we  could  wish.  On  leaving  Aberdeen  he  travelled  to 


liv  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Dundee,  thence  through  the  Carse  of  Gowrie  and  along  the 
Banks  of  Tay  to  bonnie  Dunkeld  and  Blair  in  Athole,  where 
he  spent  some  days  with  the  Duke  of  Athole.  We  have 
already  observed  that  Bishop  Pococke  frequently  presented 
copies  of  his  description  of  the  East,  Egypt,  the  Holy  Land, 
etc.  to  gentlemen,  as  a  mark  of  friendship,  and  in  appreciation 
of  kindnesses  shown  him.  One  set  of  volumes,  with  an  auto- 
graph letter,  was  presented  to  Cadboll  (Roderick  M'Leod  of 
the  '45),  but  they  were  burnt  in  the  destruction  of  Invergordon 
Castle.  Another  set  of  three  volumes l  was  given  to  Captain 
Murray  (who  succeeded  his  uncle  as  third  Duke  of  Athole  in 
1764),  and  the  following  letter  is  pasted  in  the  first  volume. 

DUBLIN,  Nov.  19,  1761. 

SIR, — I  received  the  honour  of  your  letter.  As  I  experience 
so  many  favours  from  your  family ;  I  took  the  liberty  to  request 
one  more  that  you  would  do  me  the  honour  to  permit  that  book 
to  have  a  place  in  your  library.  I  beg  to  present  my  best  respects 
to  the  Duke  and  Dutchess  and  your  Lady. — I  am  with  great 
regard,  Sir,  your  most  obedient  humble  servant, 

(Signed)       R.  OSSORY. 

Pursuing  his  journey,  he  visited  Perth,  thence  through  Fife 
to  the  University  City  of  St.  Andrews.  He  then  travelled 
along  the  northern  shores  of  the  Firth  of  Forth  to  Dunfermline. 
Ever  inquiring  after  the  curious,  he  was  informed  that  at  the 
inn  here  there  was  preserved  an  antique  piece  of  royal  furni- 
ture of  elaborately  carved  workmanship — the  nuptial  bedstead 
of  Queen  Anne.  He  was  much  struck  with  it,  and  describes 
it  most  carefully ;  his  admiration  induced  him  to  offer  the 
landlady,  Mrs.  Walker,  fifty  guineas  for  it.  She  rejected  the 
offer,  and,  being  a  zealous  Jacobite,  remarked  that  *  she  still 
retained  so  great  reverence  for  the  two  royal  personages  whose 
property  it  was,  and  who  slept  in  it  when  they  resided  here, 
and  to  their  posterity,  all  the  gold  and  silver  in  Ireland  was 
not  fit  to  buy  it.1  Thus  it  was  saved  from  eventually  coming 
under  the  auctioneer's  hammer  with  the  Bishop's  other 
1  Communicated  by  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Athole,  p.  227. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Iv 

curiosities,  and  is  now  preserved  in  Broomhall,  having  been 
converted  into  an  ornamental  chimney-piece.1 

Leaving  Dunfermline,  he  visited  Dunblane,  and  travelled 
thence  by  Stirling  to  Edinburgh. 

In  the  capital  he  found  much  to  interest  him,  and  his  pen  was 
not  idle.  He  revisited  many  of  the  places  he  had  seen  in  174*7. 
Proceeding  eastwards,  he  visited  Dunbar.2  The  geological 
formations  there,  attracted  his  attention  so  much  that  they 
formed  the  subject  of  a  communication  to  the  Royal  Society. 

Soon  he  arrived  at  the  borders,  where  we  must  t)id  the 
traveller-Bishop  adieu  so  far  as  his  Scottish  tours  are  concerned. 
His  other  tours  may  be  the  subject  of  another  work. 

It  was  now  the  end  of  September.  He  had  been  travelling 
incessantly  since  the  middle  of  April,  and  yet  apparently  was 
not  at  all  fatigued.  The  whole  of  October  he  occupied  in 
journeying  to  London,  where  he  arrived  on  the  29th,  having 
travelled,  according  to  an  accurately  kept  itinerary,  3391? 
miles.  His  arrival  in  the  Metropolis  was  at  a  time  of  great 
political  commotion.  King  George  u.  had  died  four  days 
previously,  and  all  was  excitement  connected  with  the  accession 
of  the  young  King,  George  in.,  to  the  throne.  People  were 
all  looking  for  the  unexpected  to  happen,  and  those  holding 
offices  from  the  Crown,  were  personally  and  greatly  interested 
in  the  new  sovereign.  The  newspapers  of  the  period  had  their 
limited  news-space  completely  taken  up  with  Court  proclama- 
tions and  accounts  of  the  wars  then  proceeding,  so  we  look  in 
vain  for  any  reference  to  Bishop  Pococke's  return  from  his 
wanderings,  which  at  any  other  time  might  have  received  a 
passing  notice. 

The  Bishop  appears  to  have  remained  in  London  during  the 
winter,  and  on  the  12th  March  1761  we  find  him  preaching 
before  the  Governors  of  the  Magdalen  House  Charity  on  be- 
half of  that  institution.  His  subject  was  '  The  Happiness  of 

1  Communicated  by  the  Right  Honourable  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  p.  286. 
"  P.  322. 


Ivi  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Doing  Good"*  from  the  text,  Hebrews  xiii.  16,  'But  to  do 
good  and  to  communicate  forget  not ;  for  with  such  sacrifices 
God  is  well  pleased.'  This  sermon  was  published,  together 
with  the  account  of  the  Charity  (4to).  A  year  later,  on 
27th  June  1762,  we  find  him  again  preaching  in  Dublin  on 
behalf  of  a  charity — The  Society  for  Promoting  English 
Protestant  Schools  in  Ireland — text,  1  Thess.  ii.  19,  20,  '  For 
what  is  our  hope,  or  joy,  or  crown  of  rejoicing?  Are  not 
even  ye  in  the  presence  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  at  His 
coming  ?  For  ye  are  our  Glory  and  Joy.' 

Bishop  Mant,  in  his  brief  Memoir  of  Bishop  Pococke  (the 
best  extant,  though  short),  remarks, '  Of  his  mode  of  discharging 
his  episcopal  functions  within  his  charge  I  find  no  account. 
But  it  is  related  that  on  an  excursion  which  he  made  into 
Scotland,  he  visited  many  episcopal  congregations,  and  preached 
and  confirmed  in  them  all.  ...  It  is  mentioned  here  in  connection 
with  Bishop  Pococke's  life,  for  the  sake  of  the  inference  that  the 
zeal  which  animated  him  to  such  an  exercise  of  his  ministry  in 
Scotland ;  could  hardly  have  failed  in  prompting  him  to  corre- 
sponding exertions  in  the  sphere  of  his  prescribed  duty  in  his 
diocese.  No  notice  has  occurred  to  me  of  any  theological 
works  by  Bishop  Pococke,  except  of  two  sermons1  (those 
referred  to  above). 

That  no  other  sermons  were  printed,  and  that  no  MS.  sermons 
have  been  discovered  among  his  literary  remains,  is  not  surpris- 
ing when  we  recall  his  grandfather's  example  and  precept, 
which  doubtless  would  have  weight  with  him — 

'  The  mode  of  preaching  of  which  Mr.  Milles  approved,  and  in 
which  he  more  or  less  persevered  through  life,  was  rather  a  pre- 
meditation and  recollection  from  only  short  notes  or  heads  of 
discourses,  than  from  whole  sermons  committed  to  writing. 
Nothing  displeased  him  more,  nor  was  more  heartily  despised 
by  him,  than  a  sermon  wherein  the  preacher  endeavoured  to  set 
forth  his  own  fine  thoughts,  his  gifts  and  talent,  in  the  art  of 
rhetoric  and  harangue,  or  his  abstruse  and  nervous  reasonings.1 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ivii 

Mr.  Milles,  however,  had  exceptions,  for  on  occasion  of  his 
addressing  a  more  educated  audience  than  usual,  such  as  at  an 
assize  or  visitation,  he  preached  from  book. 

If  Bishop  Pococke  followed  the  example  of  his  reverend 
grandfather,  most  of  his  sermons  would  be  extemporaneous. 

During  the  Bishop's  absence  from  Ireland  in  October  1760, 
Kilkenny  was  visited  with  extraordinary  floods.  On  his  return 
to  Ireland,  he,  with  his  characteristic  acquisitiveness,  gathered 
up  all  the  information  he  could  about  them.  The  late  Bishop 
O'Brien  found  amongst  the  Diocesan  Records  a  bundle  of  MSS. 
labelled  '  Pococke  on  the  Flood,'  and  thought  he  had  lighted 
on  a  treatise  relating  to  the  Noachean  Deluge  by  this  learned 
man  ;  but  on  examination,  found  to  his  great  disappointment, 
that  they  related  to  the  Great  Flood  of  October  1760,  which 
caused  such  devastation  and  loss  of  life  in  Kilkenny.  It  is  not 
known  where  those  MSS.  now  are.1 

When  travelling  through  Mull  he  heard  of  the  superstitious 
belief  in  second  sight,  and  wrote:  'This  is  a  subject  I  may 
consider  in  another  place.'  We  are  not  aware  that  he  carried 
out  his  intention ;  but  the  following  letter  from  the  minister 
of  Golspie,  shows  that  he  must  have  been  questioning  every 
one  at  all  likely  to  give  him  information  on  the  subject. 
Probably  the  publication  in  the  meantime  of  the  volume  by 
the  pseudonymous  author  of  the  Treatise  on  Second  Sight, 
Theophilus  Insulanus,2  deterred  him. 

To  the  AUTHOR.     [Treatise  on  Second  Sight,  etc.] 

DEAR  SIR, —  ...  I  am  sorry  you  did  not  see  the  Bishop  of 
Ossory  in  his  travels  through  Scotland  :  that  learned  prelate,  who 
has  almost  made  the  tour  of  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa,  was  par- 
ticularly fond  to  inquire  into  every  thing  that  ascertained  and 
threw  light  on  the  Second  Sight ;  and  I  persuade  myself,  if  you 
corresponded  with  him,  that  he  would  give  a  round  sum  for  your 

1  Communicated  by  the  late  Rev.  James  Graves,  Inisnaig. 

2  M'Leod  of  Hamir.      Vide  Article  on  Second  Sight  in  Chambers's  Encyclo- 
pedia. 


Iviii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

lucubrations,  and  give  them  to  the  world  in  the  history  of  his 
travels  through  Scotland,  which  he  is  now  writing  out  for  the 
press.  He  is  a  famous  man  in  the  learned  world,  and  was,  on 
that  account  sent,  at  the  public's  expense,  to  travel,  long  before 
the  merit  of  his  discoveries  gained  him  the  mitre  ;  and  I  must 
acknowledge,  I  should  have  much  higher  joy  in  seeing  you  trans- 
mitted to  posterity,  hand  in  hand  with  Dr.  Pocock,  than  in  the 
way  of  publishing  by  subscription.  You  may  easily  correspond 
with  the  Bishop-  of  Ossory,  by  sending  your  letters  to  a  friend  at 
London,  who  will  see  them  into  the  Irish  bag,  if  his  Lordship 
happens  not  to  be  at  London,  where  he  is  generally  in  the  winter, 
or  when  he  happens  not  to  be  immediately  engaged  in  travelling. 
My  friend  begs  to  be  remembered  most  respectfully  to  you,  and 
you  will  please  make  my  best  compliments  acceptable  to  your 
Lady,  and  Miss  Mally. — I  am,  with  esteem,  dear  Sir,  your  most 
obedient,  and  most  humble  servant,  MARTIN  MACPHERSON. 

GOLSPIE,  February  15,  1762. 

During  1761-62  Bishop  Pococke  partially  edited  his  Scotch 
Tours.  The  letters  which  had  been  sent  home  were  now 
amplified  and  corrected,  and  copied  by  amanuenses  into  four 
quarto  volumes.  He  enjoyed  withdrawing  from  his  palace  at 
Kilkenny  to  the  retirement  of  his  chaplain's  parsonage  at 
Attanagh — the  Rev.  Mervyn  ArchdalPs — where  he  framed  the 
narratives  of  his  travels  through  Ireland  and  Scotland,  and 
which,  Bishop  Mant  states,  '  are  said  to  have  been  lost.1  The 
following  letter  from  the  Bishop  of  Carlisle,  apparently  in 
answer  to  an  inquiry  from  Dr.  Ducarel,  confirms  this  : — 

TAYMOUTH,  PERTHSHIRE,   Suitday  July  31,  1768. 

DEAR  SIR, —  ...  I  am  now  at  Lord  Braidalbin's,  one  of  the 
most  improved  spots  in  Great  Britain  ;  to-morrow  Mr.  Pitt  and  I 
go  to  the  Duke  of  Athol's  at  the  Blair.  .  .  . 

One  quarto  volume  of  Bishop  Pococke's  MS.  Letters,  contain- 
ing his  Travels  over  England,  Scotland,  and  the  adjacent  Islands, 
is  lost.  The  rest  are  in  Dean  Milles's  possession  ;  and  there,  if 
any  where,  occur  his  remarks  on  the  Isle  of  Man.  .  .  .  — Your 
very  obliged  and  faithful  servant,  CHA.  CARLISLE.' 

1  Rev.  Dr.  Charles  Lyttelton  (afterwards  Dean  of  Exeter,  Bishop  of  Carlisle, 
and  President  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries). 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  lix 

At  those  quiet  literary  meetings  in  his  chaplain's  parsonage, 
the  Bishop  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Archdall  studied  to  some  purpose 
the  monastic  antiquities  of  Ireland ;  and,  when  the  latter 
eventually  published  them  in  his  Monasticon,  he  gratefully 
acknowledges  his  indebtedness  to  his  Bishop  thus : — 

Dr.  Pococke  '  frequently  noticed  the  defects  of  our  monastic 
history,  and  urged  the  necessity  of  its  improvement.  He 
pointed  out  the  method  here  adopted,  procured  many  necessary 
documents,  and  had  the  goodness  to  encourage  the  author  with 
solid  favours.  The  work  was  difficult,  and  required  unremit- 
ing  perseverance.  Authentick  vouchers  were  not  easily  had, 
and,  when  they  were,  it  was  no  small  labour  to  decipher  musty 
and  worm-eaten  manuscripts,  and  ascertain  their  contents.1 

In  addition  to  his  episcopal  duties,  and  antiquarian,  scien- 
tific, and  aesthetic  pursuits,  Bishop  Pococke  was  eminently 
practical  and  benevolent.  He  encouraged  Irish  manufactures, 
especially  the  linen  trade,  and  in  furtherance  of  those  objects 
he  established  the  'Lintown  Factory1  about  the  year  1763. 
It  was  situated  on  an  eminence  over  the  River  Nore,  in  the 
suburbs  of  Kilkenny.  Part  of  it  is  still  standing,  and  occupied 
as  a  private  house,  with  a  good  garden  and  field  attached.1 

Here  were  boarded  very  young  boys,  chiefly  foundlings  and 
illegitimate  children  of  Roman  Catholics  and  poor  Protestants  ; 
they  received  Protestant  religious  and  secular  instruction,  and 
were  taught  the  trade  of  weaving.  Subsequently  the  school 
was  removed  to  a  place  distant  about  a  mile  from  Kilkenny, 
and  is  now  known  as  '  The  Pococke  College,1  and  conducted  on 
a  new  system  under  the  fostering  care  of  the  Incorporated 
Society  for  Promoting  English  Protestant  Schools  in  Ireland. 

The  admission  to  this  College — a  very  valuable  institution — 
is  in  recent  years  by  competitive  examinations,  and  it  turns 
out  some  excellent  scholars.  It  is  open  to  all  children  between 
the  ages  of  twelve  and  sixteen  attending  parochial  schools. 
They  are  fed,  clothed,  and  taught  for  three  years  free,  and 
*  Communicated  by  Mr.  J.  G.  Robertson,  Kilkenny. 


Ix  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

may  then  compete  for  scholarships  in  higher  schools  under 
the  management  of  the  Incorporated  Society.  In  the  Board 
Room  of  the  Society  in  Dublin  is  a  fine  oil  painting  of 
Bishop  Pococke.  The  frontispiece l  of  this  volume  is  from  a 
photograph  of  it.  Another  portrait  is  said  to  have  been  painted. 

'  There  was  an  admirable  whole  length  of  Dr.  Pococke  in 
Turkish  dress,  by  Liotard  in  the  possession  of  Dean  Milles  of 
Exeter,  his  first  cousin.1  It  is  not  known  where  this  portrait  is 
now. 

The  founding  of  the  weaving-school  in  Lintown  led  him  to 
execute  a  will  on  the  10th  July  1763,  in  which  he  made  pro- 
vision for  its  maintenance. 

In  1764  the  Bishop  is  again  engaged  on  a  lengthy  tour 
through  part  of  England,  the  account  of  which  forms  two 
volumes  of  MS. 

In  1765  the  Bishopric  of  Meath  became  vacant,  and  Dr. 
Gore,  Bishop  of  Elphin,  was  appointed ;  and  Dr.  Pococke  pre- 
ferred to  Elphin.  But  Dr.  Gore,  for  monetary  reasons,  declined 
to  take  out  his  patent,  so  Dr.  Pococke  was  translated  directly 
from  Ossory  to  Meath  in  July. 

Bishop  Pococke^s  life  in  Meath  was  measured  by  months,  and 
yet  his  intense  activity  found  scope  in  improving  the  grounds 
round  the  episcopal  residence,  where  he  planted  cedar  and 
chestnut  trees,  which  still  wave  their  luxuriant  foliage  at  Ard- 
braccan,  living  monuments  to  this  industrious  man.  Tradition 
says  these  cedars  and  some  papyrus  are  the  product  of  seeds 
brought  by  him  from  Syria. 

On  the  15th  September  the  Bishop  was  engaged  in  a  parochial 
visitation  of  his  diocese,  and  when  at  Charleville,  near  Tulla- 
more,  suddenly  died.  Thus,  just  as  he  would  have  wished  it, 
whilst  engaged  in  his  primary  duties,  the  silver  cord  was  loosed, 
the  golden  bowl  was  broken,  and  the  spirit  returned  to  God 
who  gave  it. 

1  The  pen-and-ink  sketch  of  the  portrait  was  kindly  executed  by  Mr.  W. 
Allan  Carter,  C.E.,  Edinburgh. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ixi 

His  body  was  interred  in  Bishop  Montgomery's  tomb  at  Ard- 
braccan,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  monument  is  inserted  a 
small  slab  in  memory  of  the  great  traveller : — 

By  a  strange  fatality  indeed  it  has  fallen  to  the  lot  of  a  most 
unlettered  muse  to  record  the  place  where  are  deposited  the 
remains  of  this  amiable,  learned,  and  charitable  prelate,  whose 
thirst  after  Knowledge  prompted  him  to  encounter  so  many 
dangers  and  labours. 

HERE  LIES  INTERED  THE  BODY  OF 
DOCTOR  RICHARD  POCOCKE 
BISHOP  OF  MEATH  WHO  DIED 

September  15th  1765  in 
the  63rd  year  of  his  age. 

The  inscription  is  cut  on  a  tablet  of  Ardbraccan  stone. 

The  two  mutual  friends  of  the  late  Bishop  of  Meath,  Dr. 
Ducarel  and  the  Bishop  of  Carlisle,  exchanged  sympathies  on 
the  occasion  of  their  bereavement — 

To  Dr.  A.  C.  DUCAREL,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.,  &  F.S.A. 

HAGLEY  HALL,  Oct.  21,  1765. 

DEAR  SIR, — Though  I  hope  to  be  in  town  some  time  next 
week  and  consequently  shall  see  you  soon,  yet  I  cannot  defer 
returning  you  my  thanks  by  letter,  for  the  very  kind  condolence 
you  express  on  the  great  loss  I  have  sustained  in  the  death  of  my 
much  esteemed  old  friend  Bp.  Pococke.  Indeed,  few  things  have 
ever  affected  me  with  deeper  concern  ;  but  it  is  my  duty  to 
submit  patiently  to  the  will  of  God.  .  .  .  — Your  obliged  and 
faithful  humble  servant,  CHA.  CARLISLE.1 

In  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Canice,  Kilkenny,  a  more  worthy 
monument,  bearing  the  following  inscription,  was  erected  to 
his  memory  by  his  former  grateful  parishioners — 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Richard  Pococke,  LL.D  : 
Who  from  the  Archdeaconry  of  Dublin, 
Was  promoted  to  this  See  [Ossory]  MDCCLVI, 

1  Rev.  Dr.  Charles  Lyttelton  (afterwards  Dean  of  Exeter,  Bishop  of  Carlisle, 
and  President  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries). 


Ixii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

And  translated  to  that  of  Meath  MDCCLXV, 

Where  he  died,  September  the  15th  in  the  same  year. 

He  discharged  every  duty  of  the  Pastoral  and  Episcopal  office 

With  prudence,  vigilance,  and  fidelity ; 

Adorning  his  station 

With  unshaken  integrity  of  heart  and  purity  of  conduct  ; 

Attention  to  the  interests  of  religion, 

He  caused  several  parochial  churches  to  be  rebuilt 

Within  this  diocese. 

He  promoted  and  liberally  contributed  to  the  repairs 

And  embellishment  of  this  Cathedral  Church, 

Then  unhappily  falling  into  decay. 

A  zealous  encourager  of  every  useful  public  work, 

Especially  the  linen-manufacture, 

He  bequeathed  a  very  considerable  legacy 

To  the  Governors  of  the  Incorporated  Society, 

For  promoting  the  united  interests  of  industry 

And  charity, 

Within  this  Borough  of  St.  Canice. 

There  is  yet  another  monument  to  this  distinguished 
traveller,  in  a  situation  as  romantic  as  it  is  unlocked  for. 
There  stands  close  by  the  famous  Mer  de  Glace,  in  the 
picturesque  Vale  of  Chamounix,  a  huge  boulder  of  granite, 
left  there  many  long  years  ago  by  the  action  of  the  glacier. 
On  the  side  of  this  grand  natural  monument  there  is  carved  in 
deep  letters  :— 

RICHARD    POCOCKE,    1741. 

This  has  been  done  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley,  who 
were  anxious  to  commemorate  the  name  of  the  man  who,  it 
may  be  said,  first  made  it  known  to  the  world.  Previously, 
those  mountain  wilds  were  sacred  to  the  chamois  hunter,  and  a 
few  Benedictine  Monks  belonging  to  a  Priory  founded  in 
1090. 

On  the  19th  June  1741,  a  little  band  of  explorers  set  out 
from  Geneva,  by  the  valley  of  the  Arve,  for  their  difficult,  and, 
as  it  was  then  considered,  desperate  march.  The  party  con- 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ixiii 

sisted  of  Dr.  Pococke  as  leader ;  Lord  Haddington,1  his  brother 
Mr.  George  Baillie,1  and  Messrs.  Chetwynd,  Aldworth,  Price, 
Wyndham,  and  Stillingfleet.  They  took  with  them  five  domes- 
tics, and  all  were  well  armed. 

After  three  days  of  peril  and  fatigue  they  arrived  in  sight 
of  Chamounix,  about  fifty  miles  from  Geneva.  The  following 
day  they  reached  Montanvert  and  descended  to  the  glacier 
near  the  spot  where  the  boulder  now  bears  the  name  of 
"  Pococke  "  deep  graven  on  its  front.  As  they  stood  upon  the 
ice  they  drank  to  the  health  of  Admiral  Vernon  (then  engaged 
in  the  war  connected  with  the  Austrian  succession),  and  success 
to  the  British  arms. 

An  account  of  the  journey  appeared  in  the  Mercure  de 
Suisse,  and  in  the  next  year  several  Genevese,  profiting  by  the 
experience  of  the  Englishmen,  visited  Chamounix.  Others 
soon  followed,  and  when  Dr.  Pococke'"s  and  Mr.  Wyndham's 
account  of  their  visit  was  published  in  England,  a  stream  of 
travel  set  in  towards  the  highlands  and  valleys  of  Savoy.2 

The  Bishop's  will  already  referred  to,  and  the  codicil,  or 
later  will,  dated  just  six  months  previous  to  his  death,  are  so 
unconventional  and  interesting  that  we  give  them  in  full. 
They  also  clear  up  some  mistakes  his  biographers  have  fallen 
into — 

WiLL3  of  RICHARD  POCOCKE  Bishop  of  Meath.     1766. 

I  Richard  Pococke  Doctor  of  Law  and  Bishop  of  Ossory  do 
make  my  last  Will  and  Testament  in  manner  following.  First  I 
give  and  bequeath  to  my  dearly  beloved  Sister  Elizabeth  Pococke 
Spinster  of  Newtown  in  Hampshire  my  house  and  land  in  New- 
town  Hampshire  on  which  she  now  lives.  I  do  leave  all  my 
manuscripts  to  the  Ratcliffe  Library  in  Oxford.  I  do  make  the 
Incorporated  Society  in  Dublin  for  promoting  English  Protestant 

1  See  Letter  LXXII.  p.  332. 

2  From  a  letter  in  the  Kilkenny  Moderator,  by  the  Right  Rev.  the  Bishop  of 
Ossory,  igth  Nov.  1886.     See  note,  p.  xlvii. 

3  In  the  Public  Record  Office  of  Ireland,  Four  Courts,  Dublin. 

e 


Ixiv  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

Schools  in  Ireland  the  Executors  of  this  my  last  Will  and  Testa- 
ment and  I  do  give  devise  and  bequeath  to  them  all  my  Estate 
real  and  personal  except  as  before  excepted  in  trust  for  the  uses 
following — I  do  leave  to  each  of  my  Servants  William  Belcher  and 
his  Wife  the  sum  of  Ten  pounds  and  to  all  the  rest  of  my  Men 
servants  living  with  me  in  my  House  at  Kilkenny  the  sum  of  five 
pounds  each  and  to  all  my  English  Servants  the  sum  of  five  pounds 
each  over  and  above  the  ten  pounds  &  five  pounds  in  case  they 
leave  Ireland  to  settle  in  England — I  do  leave  the  Interest  of  all 
my  Estate  real  and  personal  and  all  the  income  of  my  sd  Estate 
real  and  personal  to  my  Sister  aforesaid  during  her  natural  life, 
desiring  it  may  be  remitted  to  her  quarterly  as  it  comes  in.  And 
after  the  decease  of  my  sd  Sister  I  do  leave  my  Estate  real  and 
personal  for  the  uses  following,  To  found  a  weaving  School  at 
Lintown  near  Kilkenny  in  the  House  I  built  for  weaving,  for 
Papist  boys  who  shall  be  from  twelve  to  sixteen  years  old  and 
who  have  not  been  at  any  school  before  of  any  publick  foundation 
&  particularly  in  none  of  the  Charter  Schools,  to  be  apprentic'd  to 
the  Society  at  fourteen  years  old  for  seven  years,  said  boys  to  be 
bred  to  the  Protestant  religion,  I  do  desire  that  all  my  antiqui- 
ties and  everything  relating  to  natural  History  and  all  my  coins 
&  medals  be  sent  to  England  to  London  to  be  sold  by  public 
auction  as  likewise  all  my  books  which  will  not  sell  here  accord- 
ing to  a  just  value.  And  I  desire  that  the  Revd  Mr.  Mervyn 
Archdall  be  requested  to  pack  up  my  natural  curiosities  and  label 
them  for  which  I  desire  that  a  proper  present  be  made  to  him  tho' 
he  is  a  signing  Witness  to  this  Will.  I  declare  this  to  be  my  last 
Will  &  Testament  all  written  with  mine  own  hand  &  desire  it 
may  stand  good  tho  it  may  be  deficient  in  point  of  law.  Signd 
seald  and  declard  this  tenth  day  of  July  1763 

Signd   seald   and  declard  to   be  the 

last  Will  &  Testament  in  presence        RICHARD  OSSORY     (Seal) 
of  the  Testator  and  of  each  other — 

Wm  Cockburn — Mervyn  Archdall — Nich8  Marten. 

In  thejjName  of  God  Amen,  I  Doctor  Richard  Pococke  Bishop 
of  Ossory  Being  in  pretty  good  health  and  of  sound  mind  & 
memory  but  sensible  of  the  uncertainty  of  human  life  Do  make 
this  my  last  Will  &  Testament  in  manner  &  form  following, 
And  first  I  do  bequeath  my  Soul  through  the  Merits  and  Interces- 
sion of  Christ  Jesus  and  most  mercifull  Redeemer  to  be  washd 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ixv 

clean  &  pure  by  his  Most  precious  blood  to  be  presented  without 
spot  to  our  most  mercifull  Creator  and  my  body  to  be  privately 
buried  as  either  my  Executors  or  the  next  of  kin  shall  direct  I 
do  leave  to  my  dear  Sister  Elizabeth  Pococke  of  Newtown  in 
Hampshire  Spinster  my  house  and  land  in  said  parish  of  Newtown. 
I  do  leave  to  my  Servants  William  Belcher  &  his  Wife  each  of 
them  twenty  pounds.  And  to  all  my  other  Servants  living  with 
me  in  my  house  at  the  time  of  my  death  the  sum  of  five  pounds 
each  and  to  all  those  who  are  English  and  immediately  transplant 
themselves  into  England  five  pounds  more  to  each  to  bear  their 
charges.  I  do  desire  that  my  Chaplain  the  Revd  Mr.  Mervyn 
Archdall  do  pack  up  carefully  my  natural  collection  and  direct 
the  packing  up  all  my  antiquities  all  to  be  sent  to  London  to  be 
sold  in  proper  lotts  at  public  auction  for  which  trouble  I  do  be- 
queath him  the  sum  of  Twenty  five  pounds  And  it  is  my  Will 
that  they  be  sent  by  long  sea  to  London  as  my  Executors  shall 
direct.  I  do  leave  all  the  rest  of  my  Estate  real  and  personal  to 
the  incorporated  Society  in  Dublin  for  promoting  English  Pro- 
testant Schools  in  Ireland  in  trust  for  the  uses  following,  First 
that  the  Interest  and  rents  be  paid  half  yearly  to  my  said  Sister 
Elizabeth  Pococke  or  her  order  for  &  during  her  natural  life 
and  then  to  Elizabeth  Milles  Spinster  of  Higham  Towers  for  & 
during  her  natural  life,  excepting  that  I  do  leave  to  said  Elizabeth 
Milles  four  pounds  a  year  English  money  during  her  life,  four 
pounds  a  year  English  money  to  Jane  Bingham  of  Havant  Spin- 
ster during  her  life.  And  then  I  do  leave  all  my  Estate  real  and 
personal  for  founding  a  School  for  papist  boys  from  twelve  to 
sixteen  years  old  who  shall  become  protestants  and  to  be  bred  to 
linnen  weaving  and  instructed  in  the  principles  of  the  protestant 
religion  sd  boys  not  to  have  been  at  any  school  before  of  any  public 
legal  foundation,  &  particularly  in  none  of  the  Charter  Schools,  to 
be  apprenticd  to  the  Society  after  they  are  fourteen  years  old  for 
seven  years.  Desiring  that  my  manufactury  house  at  Lintown 
Kilkenny  if  not  disposd  of  by  me  be  applied  for  that  use.  And 
if  the  Society  shall  think  it  better  to  sell  any  of  my  leases  I  desire 
the  produce  may  be  disposd  of  in  some  Government  security. 
And  if  any  other  religion  shall  at  any  time  be  established  than 
the  present  protestant  religion  I  do  then  leave  the  whole  for  such 
time  to  St.  Patricks  Hospital  in  Dublin  for  lunatics  under  the 
direction  of  the  Archbishop  of  Dublin  for  the  time  being  and  of 
the  other  Governors  of  said  Hospital.  To  revert  to  the  said 
Society  whenever  it  shall  be  re-established  for  the  purposes  above 


Ixvi  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

mentiond  I  do  leave  the  said  Incorporated  Society  in  Dublin  the 
Executors  of  this  my  last  Will  &  Testament  I  do  leave  all  my 
manuscripts  to  the  British  Musceum  in  London  to  the  Governors 
or  Trustees  thereof. 

The  above  Will  written  with  my  own  hand  on  the  24th  day 
of  March  1765  I  do  desire  may  be  lookd  on  as  a  Codicil  to  the 
other  Will  signd  &  seald  as  far  as  it  differs  for  it  not  having  here 
in  London  convenient  witnesses. 

These  wills  were  duly  proved  in  the  Prerogative  Court,  and 
his  executors,  the  Incorporated  Society  of  Dublin,  gave  at  least 
partial  effect  to  the  Testator's  wishes. 

Bishop  Pococke  in  his  first  will  bequeathed  his  MSS.  to  the 
Radcliffe  Library,  but  in  his  codicil  revoked  the  bequest  in 
favour  of  the  British  Museum,  and  on  the  9th  May  1766,  the 
Bishop's  Irish  collections  were  duly  presented  to  the  Museum  by 
Dean  Milles.  They  are  numbered  from  MS.  4755  to  MS.  4802. 

Very  many  volumes  of  MSS.  which  ought  to  have  been 
delivered  to  the  Museum  were  withheld,  and  for  a  couple  of 
generations  remained  private  property ;  but  subsequently  some 
of  them,  as  they  were  offered  for  sale,  were  purchased  by  the 
British  Museum  Library  authorities.  Thus  the  four  quarto 
volumes l  which  supplied  the  text  for  the  present  publication, 
and  two  volumes  of  travels  in  England,  were  not  presented  to 
the  Museum,  but  were  bought  at  the  sale  of  Dean  Milles1 
library  at  Sotheby's  so  lately  as  the  15th  April  1843,  for  £32. 
The  Bishop's  rich  literary  legacy  appears  to  have  lain  unnoticed 
for  twenty-one  years,  when  the  following  letter  drew  some  little 
attention  to  it : — 

To  RICHARD  GOUGH,  Esq.  [Enfield]. 

TREASURY  CHAMBERS,  Sept,  26.  1787. 

SIR, —  .  .  .  Whenever  you  happen  to  visit  the  British  Museum 
I  would  recommend  it  to  you  to  run  your  eye  through  the  minutes 
of  a  Philosophical  Society  formerly  held  in  Trinity  College,  Dublin, 
which  Bishop  Pococke  presented  to  the  Museum.  .  .  . 

J.  C.  WALKER. 

1  Add.  MSS.  14,256  to  14,259,  Brit.  Mus.  Dept.  of  MSS. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ixvii 

Among  the  MS.  treasures  the  gift  of  Bishop  Pococke,  are  the 
'  Minutes  and  Registers  of  the  Philosophical  Society  at  Dublin, 
from  1683  to  1687,  with  a  copy  of  the  papers  read  before  them, 
and  Register  of  the  Philosophical  Society  of  Dublin  from  August 
14,  1707,  with  copies  of  some  of  the  papers  read  before  them ; 
also  several  extracts  taken  out  of  the  records  of  Bermingham's 
Tower;  an  account  of  the  Franciscan  abbeys,  houses,  and 
friaries  in  Ireland ;  and  many  other  curious  articles  of  Irish 
history.  The  Philosophical  Society  was  founded  on  the  plan  of 
the  Royal  Society  of  London  in  1683,  by  Mr.  William  Moly- 
neux,  the  friend  and  correspondent  of  Mr.  Locke,  under  the 
encouragement  of  Sir  William  Petty,  who  was  the  first  President, 
as  Mr.  Molyneux  was  the  first  Secretary,  in  which  post  he  was 
succeeded  by  Mr.  Saint  George  Ashe,  Professor  of  Mathematics 
in  the  University  of  Dublin.  The  Society  met  at  first  weekly, 
and  their  minutes  were  from  time  to  time  communicated  to  the 
Royal  Society.  In  the  confusion  of  1688  they  were  dispersed, 
and  never  resumed  their  meetings.' 

Of  the  sale  of  the  Bishop's  books  we  have  no  account,  but  of 
his  collection  of  Greek,  Roman,  and  English  coins  and  medals 
we  have  a  full  description.  They  were  sold  by  auction  by 
Langford  &  Son,  at  their  house  in  the  Great  Piazza,  Covent 
Gardens,  London,  on  the  27th  and  28th  May  1766.  A  printed 
catalogue  of  this  sale  is  preserved  in  the  Trinity  College  Library, 
Dublin,  and  it  has  the  additional  interest  of  being  marked  with 
the  prices  realised.  Two  articles  may  be  mentioned  : — No.  114. 
A  silver  pastoral  staff  of  St.  Kerian,  the  first  Bishop  of  Ossory 
(no  price).  No.  115.  A  curious  antique  British  bracelet, 
weight  3  oz.  10  dwt.  7  gr.  £2,  12s.  6d. 

His  collection  of  antiquities  and  fossils  was  sold  by  Messrs. 
Langford,  June  5th  and  6th,  1766.1  Among  these  was  a 
singular  petrified  echinus,  found  in  a  chalk -pit  in  Bovingdon 
parish,  in  Hertfordshire,  which  Sir  Thomas  Fludyer  bought 

]  I  should  be  glad  to  be  informed  where  a  copy  of  the  printed  catalogue  of 
Fossils,  etc.,  may  be  seen. — D.  \V.  K. 


Ixviii  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

for  three  guineas;  Mr.  Seymour  offered  five  guineas  for  it 
at  his  sale,  Mr.  Foster  six  guineas,  and  it  was  sold  for  ten 
guineas. 

These  sales  dispose  of  the  erroneous  statement  in  Cotton's 
Fasti  Eccles.  Hib.  that  *  he  bequeathed  his  collection  of  coins, 
medals,  fossils,  etc.,  to  the  British  Museum.1 

There  is  another  error  which  it  may  be  as  well  to  correct. 
Bishop  Mant  speaks  with  feelings  of  pride  of  his  connection 
with  Bishop  Pococke,  through  his  sister  having  been  '  married 
to  the  reverend  and  very  learned  Joseph  Bingham,  author  of 
The  Antiquities  of  the  Christian  Church.  We  have  seen  in  the 
wills  that  Miss  Elizabeth  Pococke,  the  Bishop's  only  sister,  is 
called  a  spinster — she  was  never  married.  Bishop  Pococke's 
father's  sister,  Dorothea  Pococke,  however,  married  the  Rev. 
Joseph  Bingham,  and  it  was  through  a  daughter  of  this  marriage 
that  Bishop  Mant  ought  to  have  claimed  descent  and  connection 
with  the  Pococke  family. 

The  wills,  especially  the  later  one,  are  sweetly  simple  and 
reverent,  affectionate  and  benevolent.  The  testator  wrote  his 
settlement  none  too  soon — the  shadow  had  already  begun  to 
fall,  and,  realising  the  momentous  responsibilities  and  obliga- 
tions of  life,  he,  strong  in  that  faith  of  which  he  had  been  the 
exponent,  committed  his  spiritual  being  to  his  Creator  through 
redemption,  and  his  material  being  to  repose  again  among 
the  dust. 

Having  no  other  ties,  he,  with  true  fraternal  affection,  made  his 
sister  his  chief  legatee,  and  after  she  and  other  beneficiaries  had 
enjoyed  during  their  lifetime  the  revenues  of  his  estate,  they 
were  free  for  the  benevolent  uses  conceived  by  him  for  the 
education,  clothing,  and  feeding  of  a  number  of  poor  boys — 
thus  the  Pococke  College  eventually  arose — through  means  of 
which  many  a  boy  has  had  good  cause  to  call  the  pious 
Founder  blessed. 

Bishop  Pococke  probably  appraised  his  literary  legacy  to 
the  nation  even  at  a  higher  value  than  his  material  wealth. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH.  Ixix 

It  was  his  own,  his  life's  work — had  cost  him  much  time 
and  money,  fatigue  and  hardship — was  the  product  of  untold 
labours  and  sacrifices.  No  wonder,  then,  that  he  thought  the 
only  fitting  resting-place  for  his  MSS.  was  alongside  similar 
literary  treasures  in  our  greatest  national  library — in  the  hope 
that  one  day  they  might  be  of  value,  and  we  are  only  now 
waking  up  to  appreciate  the  gift. 

Scottish  literature  would  have  been  all  the  richer  had 
Bishop  Pococke's  Tours  been  published  at  the  time  they  were 
written,  and  under  the  editorship  of  their  author. 

They  would  doubtless  have  been  as  often  quoted  as  Pennant. 
That  topographist  appears  both  to  have  known  and  consulted 
the  Pococke  MSS.,  and  probably  drank  more  deeply  into  them 
than  we  are  aware. 

His  general  plan,  descriptions,  and  itinerary,  closely  resemble 
them.  On  a  blank  page  of  the  MS.  is  a  note l  initialed  '  T.  P.1 : 
most  probably  Thomas  Pennant.  In  his  account  of  lona, 
referring  to  the  Cladh  an  Diesart,  he  writes : 2  '  Bishop  Pococke 
mentions  that  he  had  seen  two  stones  seven  feet  high,1  etc. 
Where  had  the  Bishop  mentioned  it  ?  only  in  his  MSS.,  where 
Pennant  doubtless  saw  it.  Referring  to  the  Angel's  Hill  in 
lona,  he  writes  : 3  '  Bishop  Pococke  informed  me  that  the  natives 
were  accustomed  to  bring  their  horses  to  it.1  It  was  twelve  years 
before  this  that  the  Bishop  had  been  to  lona,  and  he  had  been 
dead  seven  years  before  Pennant  visited  the  island.  Again, 
referring  to  those  lofty  hills  above  Loch  Leven,  he  wrote : 4 
'  My  old  friend,  the  late  worthy  Bishop  Pococke,  compared  the 
shape  of  one  to  Mount  Tabor.1  It  is  improbable  that  Pennant 
could  have  remembered  scraps  of  conversation  about  places  he 
had  never  seen,  and  which  at  the  time  he  perhaps  never  thought 
of  seeing.  The  Bishop  of  Carlisle,  in  the  letter  already  given, 
wrote  in  1768  :  '  One  quarto  volume  of  Bishop  Pococke1s  MS. 
letters,  containing  his  travels  over  England,  Scotland,  and  the 
adjacent  islands,  is  lost.1  May  it  not  have  been  then  in  the 
1  P.  68.  2  P.  85.  3  P.  86.  4  P.  97. 


Ixx  BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH. 

possession  of  Pennant,  who  was  preparing  for  his  first  tour 
through  Scotland  in  1769  ? 

Thus  Pococke's  Tours,  although  sleeping  in  manuscript  for 
more  than  a  century,  may  have  been  to  a  considerable  extent 
living  in  Pennant's  pages. 

At  this  time  of  day  the  Bishop's  Tours  are  more  confirmative 
than  informative ;  still  the  archaeologist  and  topographist  will 
find  much  to  interest  them,  especially  in  the  descriptions  of  the 
western  and  northern  districts ;  and  the  student  will  here  and 
there  get  pleasing  glimpses  of  Scottish  life  and  character  in  the 
middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

If  the  work  should  be  tried  even  by  the  severe  standard 
so  well  expressed  by  the  venerable  physician,  Sir  Alexander 
Dick,  to  the  great  lexicographer,  Dr.  Johnson — that  no  travels 
should  be  published  but  those  undertaken  by  persons  of  in- 
tegrity, and  who  describe  faithfully — we  venture  to  think  the 
verdict  would  amply  justify  the  present  publication ;  coupled 
with  the  regret  that  its  appearance  should  have  been  delayed 
so  long.  D.  W.  K. 


JOURNEY  THROUGH  SCOTLAND 
IN  1747— FIRST  TOUR. 


LETTER  I. 

DUBLIN,  Nov.  yh,  1747. 

HONOURED  MADAM,1 — As  I  observe  some  things  which  will 
not  properly  come  into  my  account,  so  I  propose  to  give  you 
my  journal2  besides  the  account3  I  send  you,  and  I  will  begin 
with  Sunday  the  27th  of  Septr.,  when  Mr.  Blackbourn  at 
Richmond  sent  me  his  canonicals,4 1  went  to  his  house,  preached 
for  him  and  dined  with  him,  Mr.  York  with  us ;  went  to  even 
prayers, — walked  over  Mr.  York's  improvements,  drank  tea 
there,  came  home  and  writ.  .  .  .5 

I  had  compliments  to  Mr.  Robinson  at  Holy  Island,  who 
showed  me  all  and  dined  with  me  at  Berwick.  I  soon  after 
came  into  Scotland ;  and  almost  the  first  thing  that  presented 
to  my  view  was  a  Scot  lying  down  with  a  great  club  by  him 
and  his  eyes  fixed  down — and  as  I  passed  by  him  he  gave  me 
such  a  slive,6  as  a  dog  that  has  done  some  mischief. 

1  Dr.  Pococke's  mother,  Mrs.  Elizabeth  Pococke,  addressed  to  Newtown,  near 
Newbury,  Berkshire. 

2  This  letter,  which  Dr.  Pococke  calls  his  Journal,  is  more  personal  and 
sketchy  in  style  than  are  the  accounts  of  his  journeys. 

3  The  MS.  of  the  account  referred  to  is  not  known  to  exist,  and  the  probability 
is  that  the  Dr.  incorporated  it  in  that  of  his  great  journey  in  1760. 

4  Dr.  Pococke  was  at  the  time  Archdeacon  of  Dublin. 

3  The  part  omitted  describes  the  journey  from  Richmond  by  way  of  Appleby, 
Penrith,  Carlisle,  Hexham,  Durham,  Morpeth,  to  Berwick. 

6  Slive  ;  a  local  word — to  sneak.  '  Pegge  calls  a  slmng  fellow  one  who,  in 
our  northern  dialect,  loiters  about  with  a  bad  intent.' — Todcfs  Joh ttson's  Diet. 

A 


2  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1747. 

At  Eding  I  asked  whose  house1  that  was?  they  told  me 
the  house  of  the  Laird  of  Eding ;  I  asked  his  name,  they  said, 
Thomas  Feldice.  At  Old  Cambay  2  I  asked  them  if  they  went 
to  the  Kirk  ?  yes,  and  they  had  no  meeting-house  there. 

10th  [Oct.]. — I  rid  through  Dunbar,  dined  at  Beltonford, 
saw  the  spot  of  Prestonpans ; — came  to  Edinburgh — went  to 
lodgings :  Dr.  Grant  an  Episcopal  minister  I  had  a  letter  to, 
came  and  spent  the  even  with  me. 

llth. — I  went  to  the  Kirk,  drank  tea,  preached3  for  Dr. 
Grant,  he  dined  with  me  at  4  and  spent  the  even  with  me. 

12th. — Dr.  Grant  breakfasted  with  me,  we  walked  to  Leith, 
— went  to  the  Islands  called  Inchkeith  and  Inchcomb. 

13. — Rid  with  Dr.  Grant  to  Mussulboroug,  Inverask,  and 
seat  of  the  Duke  of  Buccleugh  at  Smyton4  and  Dalkeith  ;  came 
home  and  dined,  saw  the  Advocates1  Library.  Dr.  Grant  sat 
a  while  with  me. 

14. — I  was  at  Dr.  Grant's  door — visited  Messrs.  Hamilton  & 
Balfour — saw  the  Hospitals  and  King's  palace — dined  with  Dr. 
Grant,  saw  some  other  Hospitals — went  to  the  Coffee-house, 
gave  a  letter  there  to  Mr.  Lyon  of  the  Castle — went  to  the 
Kirk. 

15. — Breakfasted  with  Mr.  Hamilton ;  rid  to  St.  Catherine's 
Spring,  to  Roslin  Chapel,  where  Baron  Clerk  met  me  carryed 
me  to  Hawthornden  and  to  dine  at  his  house ;  where  the  Lord 
Provost 5  was  come  home,  sup'd  with  the  Lord  Provost. 

16. — I  saw  the  Abbey  Church  and  the  Castle,  breakfasted 
there  with  Mr.  Lyon.  Saw  the  College  Library  and  set  out. 

1  Probably  the  mansion-house  of  Ayton,  then  the  seat  of  Mr.  Fordyce. 

2  Old   Cambus,  in  the  parish  of  Cockburnspath,  was  then  a   considerable 
village,  but  is  now  reduced  to  a  few  cottages. 

3  On  January  25th,  1747,  a  qualified  Episcopal  meeting-house  was  opened  in 
Skinner's  Close,  Edinburgh,  '  by  Mr.  James  Grant,  who  was  assistant  to  the 
minister  of  Inveresk,  but  went  thence  to  London  last  summer,  and  is  now  a 
Presbyter  of  the  Church  of  England.'— Scots  Mag.,  Jan.  1747,  p.  47.       The 
Bishop  of  London  licensed  Mr.  Grant.     It  was  probably  in  this  meeting-house 
that  Archdeacon  Pococke  preached. 

4  Smeaton,  an  old  jointure  house  of  the  Buccleuchs. 

5  George  Drummond,  seven  times  elected  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh.     A 
marble  bust  of  him  by  Nollekins,  also  a  portrait,  long  occupied  conspicuous 
places  in  the  old  Royal  Infirmary,  with  which  he  was  so  honourably  associated  ; 
they  are  now  in  the  neW  one — the  former  in  the  entrance  hall,  and  the  latter  in 
the  board  room. 


EDINBURGH,  HOPETOUN,  STIRLING,  GLASGOW.    3 

Rid  through  Cramond  seven  miles  to  Lord  Hopetown's,  to 
whom  I  had  a  letter,  he  was  abroad,  to  Dr.  Dundass,  he  walked 
with  me  in  the  garden,  returning  found  my  friend  Mr. 
Mitchel,  member  for  Aberdeen  and  secretary  under  the 
Marquise  of  Twidale,  with  my  Lord  we  dined ; — I  saw  the 
house  and  pictures  my  Lady  putting  herself  in  the  way,  went 
with  me ; — she  is  a  most  amiable  woman,  daughter  of  Lord 
Finlater,  and  has  charming  children.  I  walked  with  my  Lord 
in  his  gardens  and  grand  stables ;  we  drank  tea,  spent  the 
even  in  discourse ;  in  seing  my  Lord's  minerals,  Cameo's,  and 
Intaglio's ;  and  at  supper.  I  had  made  a  motion  to  go  after 
dinner,  but  my  Lord  desired  me  to  stay  till  the  next  morning. 

17th. — We  breakfasted,  they  always  bring  toasted  bread, 
and  besides  butter,  Honey  and  jelly  of  Currants  and  pre- 
served orange  peel.  My  Lady  had  on  the  ....  ^  of  the  arms, 
with  open  work,  and  fine  lace  at  the  end,  which  looked  very 
neat.  My  Lord  rid  with  me  two  miles.  I  went  to  Lithgow, 
dined  at  Falkirk,  came  to  Sterling, — Mr.  Duncan  fellow  of 
St.  John's  Col.  Oxon,  and  chaplain  to  Barril's  Regiment  there. 

18th. — I  went  up  to  the  Castle,  Mr.  Duncan  called  on  me,  I 
went  to  his  lodging,  took  a  walk ;  preached  to  the  Soldiers  in 
the  Court-house — saw  the  Castle,  dined  with  Mr.  Duncan  and 
the  officers — went  to  prayers — called  at  Captn.  Thorns,  we  all 
went  to  see  the  rest  of  the  Castle  :  drank  tea  at  Captn.  Thorns. 
I  went  home  and  writ. 

19th. — I  rid  to  Buchanan  Castle  near  Lough  Louman  ;2 — 
dined,  rid  towards  Dunbarton,  lay  at  Kilmarnock.3 

20. — Rid  to  Dunbarton,  dined,  saw  the  Castle : — came  to 
Glasgow,  Major  Rufane  spent  the  even  with  me  ;  Mr.  Professor 
Simpson  4  of  the  Mathematicks,  called  on  me,  I  having  a  letter 
for  him. 

21st. — I  saw  the  Cathedral,  the  manufactures  etc. :  Major 
Rufane  joyn'd  me,  and  Mr.  Professor  Simpson,  showed  us  the 
College  and  Library.  I  was  made  a  freeman  5  of  Glasgow,  the 

1  Blank  in  the  MS.  3  Loch  Lomond. 

3  Kilmaronock,  on  the  military  road  from  Stirling  to  Dumbarton. 

4  Robert  Simson,  M.D.,  author  of  several  Mathematical  works  in  Latin. 

5  Mr.  J.  D.  Marwick,  LL.D.,  Town-Clerk  of  Glasgow,  has  caused  the  Council 
records  to  be  thoroughly  searched,  but  no  reference  to  Dr.  Pococke  has  been 
found.     The  Roll  of  Burgesses  by  purchase  has  been  most  accurately  kept,  but 


4  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1747. 

Lord  Provost  presenting  me  with  it ;  and  then  putting  it  in 
my  hat, — I  put  on  my  hat ; — we  drank  some  healths,  and  I 
wore  it  through  the  town,  to  the  place  where  I  dined  with 
the  Professors.  I  did  some  business; — Major  Rufane  and 
Mr.  Uri,1  a  learned  bookseller  came  and  sat  a  while  with 
me. 

22d. — Major  Rufane  two  officers  and  the  Dr.  rid  with  me, 
saw  Bosworth2  Castle  and  Duke  Hamilton's  dog-house  and 
house  ;  dined  took  leave  of  them  ;  rid  18  miles  to  Kilmarnock, 
where  Lady  Kilmarnock  died  lately.3 

23d. — Rid  to  Air,  dined,  sold  my  3  guinea  horse,  for  one 
guinea,  he  had  performed  well.  I  baited  at  Garvey,2  lay  at 
Balenfrey.2 

24. — Rid  to  Lord  Stair's  4  improvements 5  at  Castle  Kennedy, 
— went  by  the  rout  to  Port  Patrick. 

25. — Sent  my  things  aboard,  but  being  windy  would  not  go, 
they  had  a  terrible  wet  passage.  Mr.  Hamilton,  Collector  of 
.  .  .  6  who  was  going  over,  and  the  controller  spent  the  even 
with  me. 

26. — We  sailed  in  5  hours  to  Donaghadee,  a  fine  passage  but 
I  was  very  sick  ; — they  go  in  open  Hoys,7  which  have  no  deck. 

it  would  appear  not  to  have  been  thought  worth  while  to  engross  the  names  of  all 
the  honorary  freemen.  It  looks  as  though  in  those  good  old  times,  councils 
presented  the  freedom  of  their  burghs  to  distinguished  visitors,  less  for  the  honour 
of  building  up  their  Rolls  of  Fame,  than  as  occasions  affording  agreeable  oppor- 
tunities for  conviviality,  speech-making,  and  drinking  of  healths.  See  notes  to 
Lanark,  Dunrobin,  Torres,  and  Aberdeen  letters. 

1  Robert  Urie,  a  printer  and  publisher  of  a  number  of  works,  both  in  classical 
and  general  literature  ;  perhaps  his  finest  specimens  are  his  editions  of  the  Greek 
New  Testament  and  the  Spectator. 

-  Bothwell. — Girvan  [?],  and  Ballantrae,  towns  on  the  old  mail-coach  road  be- 
tween Glasgow  and  Portpatrick. 

3  Lady  Kilmarnock's  recent  death  would  be  a  subject  of  conversation  at  this 
time.     Her  late  husband,  William,  fourth  Earl  of  Kilmarnock,  had  joined  the 
Rebellion  chiefly  at  her  instance,  and  was  beheaded  i8th  August  1746.    She  did 
not  long  survive  her  sorrows,  and  died  of  a  broken  heart  a  month  previous  to 
Dr.  Pococke's  visit. 

4  John,  second  Earl  of  Stair,  died  gth  May  1747. 

5  On  again  visiting  Castle  Kennedy,  thirteen  years  later,  Dr.  Pococke  was 
disappointed  with  the  improvements.     See  p.  12. 

6  Blank  in  the  MS. 

7  A  Hoy  was  a  small  coasting  vessel,  usually  rigged  as  a  sloop,  and  generally 
employed  in  carrying  passengers  and  luggage. 


GLASGOW,  AYR,  DUBLIN.  5 

I  took  over  my  excellent  mare.     Mr.  Nevin  the  Minister  came 
and  took  me  to  his  house.1  .  .  . 

29.  Rid  to  Burgh  mills — went  to  Mr.  Clenes  a  clergyman 
dined  with  him  and  he  went  with  me  to  see  that  most  stupen- 
dous work  of  nature,  the  Giant's  Causeway.2  .  .  .l 

Nov.  4th. — My  coach  met  me,  and  Dr.  Thomas  in  it  at 
Drumcondra,  I  came  to  Dublin ; — called  at  the  Bishop  of 
Waterfords  door.  On  Mr.  Fletcher,  Mrs.  Hyde,  at  Mr. 
Colemans,  and  Mrs.  Travers  door ;  visited  Mr.  Bristow — 
came  home,  Dr.  Barber  came  to  see  me.  He  and  Dr.  Thomas 
dined  with  me.  I  went  out  incog,  to  a  gallery  to  see  the  new 
Ball  room  and  company.  The  Lord  Mayor  Sr.  George  Ribton 
came  to  see  me, — the  Alderman  knighted  by  the  Ld.  Lieu- 
tenant. 

5. — I  visited  the  Archbishop  of  Dublin,  the  Primate,  the 
Speaker,  and  Mrs.  Chinevix, — went  to  Christ  Church  where 
the  Bishop  of  Femes  preached  before  the  House  of  Lords.  I 
dined  with  the  Lord  Mayor  a  grand  Entertainment :  visited 
Mrs  Reynell. — Pray  my  very  kind  love  to  my  sister,  I  am,  dear 
Madam,  your  most  Dutiful  Son, 

RICHARD  POCOCKE. 

1  The  parts  omitted  describe  the  journey  from  Donaghadee  to  Drogheda,  -via 
Belfast,  Antrim,  Ardmagh,  Newry,  and  Dundalk. 

2  Dr.  Pococke  communicated  '  An  Account  of  the  Giant's  Causeway  in  Ireland ' 
to  the  Royal  Society,  London.     Philosophical  Transactions  1748,  vol.  xlv.  p. 
124;  and  '  A  farther  Account'  in  1753,  vol.  xlviii.  pt.    I.,  pp.  226  and  238. 
See  Note  about  Dunbar,  2Oth  September  1760. 


JOURNEY    INTO    SCOTLAND 
IN  1750— SECOND  TOUR. 


LETTER  II. 

PENRITH  IN  CUMBERLAND,  July  22d,  i7$o.1 

HONOURED  MADAM,*  —  I  came  into  Scotland  the  16th  of 
July  when  I  crossed  over  the  river  Sarke  and  came  to  Greatney 
Bridge,  where  we  took  some  refreshments,  and  rid  about  six 
miles  to  the  north  to  Bernis3  near  Middleby,  which  was  a 
Roman  town,  and  is  thought  to  be  Blatum  Bulgium  the  fossee 
of  the  town  remains,  and  on  a  stone  in  one  of  the  houses  I  saw 
these  letters 


We  went  to  Midleby  where  there  is  a  hill  which  had  been 
fortified  by  art,  and  what  they  call  a  strength  ;  4  —  we  then  went 
on  to  that  famous  hill  Burnswork,5  which  appears  at  a  distance 
with  a  square  top  like  a  lake  ;  —  we  ascended  this  hill  which 
commands  a  glorious  view  of  the  country  round  as  well  as  of 

1  In  that  year  Dr.  Pococke  made  an  extensive  tour  through  the  northern 
counties  of  England,  and  visited  a  few  places  of  interest  in  the  Scottish  Border. 

2  This  letter  is  addressed  to  his  mother. 

3  Birrens  :  '  Several  inscriptions  have  been  found  here,  but  most  of  them  broke 
to  pieces  ;  some  are  entirely  built  up  within  the  walls  of  the  cottages.     I  saw 
one  stone  with  Roman  letters  upon  it,  but  so  defaced,  that  it  was  unintelligible.'  — 
Gordon's  Itinerarium,  1727,  p.  18.     This  fragment  of  an  inscription,  CONIS, 
probably  should  have  been  read  COH,  i.e.  Cohort.     Pennant  records  the  same 
stone,  but  spells  the  first  word  differently,  AXAN  CONIS.—  Pen.  Scot.,  App. 
vol.  iii.  p.  409. 

4  Middleby  Fort.     See  engraving,  Gordon's  /tin.  ,  pi.  2. 

6  Camp  of  Burnswork.     See  engraving,  Gordon's  Itin.,  pi.  I. 


MIDDLEBY,  BURNSWORK,  DUMFRIES.  7 

the  sea  and  the  western  coast  of  England  and  of  all  the 
country  of  Annandale,  and  especially  of  those  lakes  which  are 
made  by  the  rivers  to  the  north-west.  This  hill  has  two  summits 
and  tho'  it  is  high  affords  very  good  pasturage  ; — there  is  a 
camp  on  the  north  side,  and  another  on  the  south  side  on  the 
very  foot  of  the  hill ; — the  people  say  that  to  the  south  was 
made  by  King  Charles  the  first  his  army  under  Duke  Hamilton 
and  they  certainly  did  encamp  on  it ;  but  there  is  no  doubt 
but  that  they  are  both  Roman  works  ;  they  are  about  half  a 
mile  long  from  east  to  west,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad 
from  north  to  south — that  to  the  south  has  three  entrances  to 
the  north  with  ramparts  before  them  to  defend  the  entrance, 
there  is  one  entrance  to  the  west.  To  the  other  there  are 
three  entrances  to  the  south  and  I  could  discern  a  barrow  only 
to  the  middle  one : — they  are  supposed  to  be  Castra  vEstiva  of 
Blatum  Bulgium  ;  and  some  think  they  are  Castra  explora- 
torum,  and  it  is  probable  they  were  encamped  on  the  north  or 
south-side  of  the  hill  according  as  the  weather  favoured. 

We  descended  from  this  beautiful  hill  and  passed  through  a 
village  called  Todory  Pill,1  where  I  saw  the  ruins  of  an  old 
tower  or  castle,  and  came  to  Eacle-Fechon2  where  we  took  some 
farther  refreshments,  and  went  on  towards  Dumfries,  we  crossed 
the  river  Anan  and  passed  by  Hot  ham3  Castle  very  finely 
situated  over  the  river,  we  crossed  a  ridge  of  hills  and  came 
into  Nithsdale  and  arrived  at  Dumfries,  which  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  river  Nith  which  winds  so  as  to  make  a  penin- 
sula of  the  town  and  the  fields  to  the  north  of  it :  the  principal 
street  is  broad  and  well  built  of  the  red  free  stone  in  which 
this  country  abounds  :  there  are  two  churches  in  the  town,  one 
of  which  if  I  do  not  mistake,  is  for  an  Episcopal  congregation. 
They  have  an  old  building  here  called  the  Nework,4  which  as 
well  as  I  could  be  informed  served  formerly  as  a  warehouse. 

1  [?]  Torbeck  Hill,  an  upland  farm,  with  adjoining  village  called  Waterbeck. 
•  Ecclefechan. 

3  Hoddam  Castle,  the  seat  of  the    Kirkpatrick-Sharpe   family.      Sir  Roger 
Kirkpatrick  made  '  siccar '  the  slaughter  of  John  Comyn,  who  had  been  stabbed, 
not  by  command,  but  by  the  hand  of  Robert  Bruce  before  he  was  King. 

4  The  New  Wark,  a  strong  defensive  edifice  erected  after  the  ancient  Castle 
of  Dumfries  had  fallen  into  ruins.     No  vestiges  of  it,  the  castle,  or  friary,  now 
remain. 


8  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1750. 

There  are  some  litle  remains  of  an  old  Friary  in  the  town, 
famous  in  History  for  being  the  place  where  Cummins  (who  was 
suspected  by  Robert  Bruce  King  of  Scotland  to  have  been 
treacherous  towards  him,  in  his  conduct  with  the  English) 
took  refuge  and  was  murdered  by  the  King's  command,  on 
which  the  King  was  excommunicated  by  the  Pope,  and  the 
chapel  for  ever  interdicted  in  which  the  murder  was  committed  ; 
on  which  St.  Michaels  at  the  east  end  of  town  was  built  for  the 
friary,  which  has  a  handsome  steeple  to  it.  There  is  a  fine 
bridge  here  over  the  Nith  into  Galloway,  this  bridge  and  a 
waterfall  made  by  art,  to  keep  up  the  river  for  some  uses,  make 
a  very  beautiful  prospect  from  the  side  of  the  river,  boats  come 
up  to  the  town,  and  ships  of  forty  tuns  within  two  miles  of  it, 
and  they  have  here  a  great  trade  in  Tobacco  ; — this  town  main- 
tained its  loyalty  in  the  last  rebellion,  and  severe  contributions 
being  raised  on  them  "'twas  made  up  to  them  by  the  government. 
Over  the  river  near  the  town  is  a  small  mount l  which  would 
not  hold  at  the  top  above  thirty  people,  it  is  called  the  moot, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  the  heads  of  the  place  held  their  meet- 
ings here,  and  promulged  their  laws  to  the  people  : — there  is  a 
very  fine  prospect  from  it  of  the  country  round,  I  saw  from  it 
Lincluddin,2  an  old  nunnery,  and  near  it  is  a  monastery  called 
Holy  Rhood  ; 3  and  at  some  distance  from  Dumfries  what  is 
called  New  Abby  and  in  their  records  Abbatia  dulcis  Cordis. 
Not  far  from  Dumfries  is  a  chapel  called  Christo,4  where  Sr. 

1  The  Moat  Brae. 

2  Founded  in  the  reign  of  Malcolm  iv.,  as    a   cloister  of  Black  Nuns,  by 
Uchtred,  Lord  of  Galloway,  but  changed  into  a  College  or  Frovostry  in  reign  of 
King  Robert  III.  by  Archibald  the  Grim,  Earl  of  Douglas,  for  alleged  scandal- 
ous lives  of  the  nuns.     Robert  Burns  composed  several  poems  under  the  shadow 
of  the  ruins  of  Lincluden  Abbey.      Vide  Chronicles  of  Lincluden,   by  Wm. 
M'Dowall,  F.S.A.  Scot.,  1886. 

3  Holywood  Abbey,  called  also  Haliwood  and  Sacrinemoris,  on  the  opposite 
or  left  bank  of  the  Cluden  from  Lincluden,  and  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
the  Lady  Devorgilla,  Foundress  of  the  New  Abbey. 

4  Popularly  called  the  Crystal  Chapel ;  on  its  site  stands  St.  Mary's  Church. 
The  Chapel  was  built  by  King  Robert  Bruce  in  memory  of  his  father-in-law  Sir 
Christopher  Seton,  the  '  Gude  Schir  Christell,'  who  was  hanged,  not  beheaded, 
on  the  spot,  'Christall's  Mount.'     The  bulk  of  the  ruins  were  used  in  forming 
a  rampart  wall  at  the  time  of  the  Rebellion  in  1715.     The  last  remains  were 
used  more  recently  in  making  the  Kirk  style  at  St.   Michael's  Church  ;  vide 
The  Genealogie  of  the  House  and  Surname  of  Setoun. 


DUMFRIES,  DRUMLANRIG.  9 

Christopher  Setin  is  buried,  who  was  beheaded  (tho'  a  Scotch- 
man and  no  subject),  for  treason  by  Edward  the  First. 

At  Markland1  in  the  shire  of  Galway,1  six  miles  from 
Dumfries,  are  chalybeat  waters,  esteemed  good  for  the  appetite 
and  spirits.  Moffit  is  to  the  north  east  and  forty  miles  from 
Carlisle,  is  much  frequented  for  its  mineral  waters. 

17. — I  set  out  from  Drumlandrig,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of 
Queensborough,  and  came  down  into  that  fine  vale  in  which 
the  river  Nith  runs,  gentle  risings  to  the  south,  higher  hills  to 
the  north,  several  country  seats  with  improvements  round  them, 
with  groves  and  clumps  of  fir  trees  over  the  whole  valley,  make 
it  for  about  five  computed  miles,  or  eight  measured  miles,  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  spots  I  ever  beheld.  We  crossed  the 
foot  of  the  hill  which  stretches  to  the  river  ;  and  going  to  the 
south  of  the  Nith,  passed  by  a  mount  to  the  left,  much  like  a 
Danish  fort,  now  planted  by  the  Duke,  this  is  called  Tibers 2 
Castle,  and  from  the  name,  they  have  a  notion  that  it  is  a  Roman 
work.  Drumlandrig  is  on  the  road  from  Glasgow  to  London, 
42  computed  miles  s.w.  from  Edingburgh  and  12  N.W.  from 
Dumfries.  This  fine  improvement  is  a  very  beautiful  situation  ; 
— there  is  a  gentle  ascent  to  the  house  of  about  half-a-mile,  which 
is  on  a  flat  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  with  a  descent  from  it  of  100 
feet  perpendicular  to  the  rivlet,  the  hills  rising  up  every  way 
except  to  the  north,  are  covered  with  wood  and  cut  into  ridings. 
The  house  is  something  in  the  castle  way,  with  a  mixture  of 
Roman  Architecture  in  a  bad  taste  : — they  were  at  first  hang- 
ing gardens,  but  the  present  Duke  has  turned  them  all  into 
slopes,  except  the  upper  one,  which  is  thirty  feet  high,  and 
could  not  be  so  easily  formed  into  a  slope.  His  Grace  has 
likewise  planted  this  part  with  forest  trees,  and  made  a  large 
piece  of  water  at  the  bottom  by  keeping  up  the  rivlet ;  there 

1  Markland  Well,  in  the  parish  of  Lochrutton,  Kirkcudbrightshire,  province 
of    Galloway.      It    is    a  small   chalybeate   spring,    '  an   excellent   restorer    of 
appetite. '    New  Stat,  Ac. 

2  Tibber's  Castle :  '  A  Roman  Castellum,  but  afterwards  made  a  place  of  defence 
in  the  wars  betwixt  the  English  and  Scotch,  in  the  time  of  Edward  I.,  and  part 
of  it  re-edified  with  a  stone  and  lime  wall. ' —  Gordon's  Itin. ,  p.  19.    A  spear-head , 
arrow-heads,  etc.,  have  been  found  in  the  ruins.     Additional  interest  attaches 
to  the  site  from  the  traditionary  adventure  of  Sir  William  Wallace,  in  surprising 
the  English  garrison,  and  burning  the  castle. 


10  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1750. 

are  20  acres  in  the  garden,  and  700  under  plantations  :  the 
prospect  to  the  north  is  of  the  valley  and  hills  and  high 
mountains.  The  old  seat  and  burial  place  of  the  family  is  six 
miles  off  at  Sanchers,1  where  the  present  Duke's  grandfather,  who 
built  this  house  lived,  entertained  his  company  here  and  rid 
home  at  night.  The  silver  and  lead  mines  belonging  to  the 
Duke  and  Lord  Hopton  are  about  twelve  miles  from  this 
place. 

I  was  informed  that  there  are  remains  of  a  Roman  road  from 
Drumlanrig  twelve  miles  to  a  loan  foot2  where  it  meets  the  road 
from  Netherby,  which  goes  fifty  miles  by  Kirkle,3  Eagle  Fechon,4 
Lauherby,5  Wamfrey,6  Lough  Cautie 7  and  Erechstein.8 — I  am, 
dear  Madam,  your  most  dutiful  Son, 

RICHARD  POCOCKK. 

1  Sanquhar.  2  Elvanfoot.  3  Kirtle. 

4  Ecclefechan.  5  Lockerbie.  6  Wamphray. 

7  Probably  the  old  loch  near  Beattock  Railway  Station  now  drained  ;  part  of 
the  ancient  lands  of  the  Johnston  family,  known  as  the  Coitis,  Coutis,  or  Cowtis, 
hence  the  name  Loch  Cautie.     The  loch  lay  behind  the  old  Craigielands  village, 
and  was  used  within  living  memory  as  a  curling-pond  in  winter ;  but  when  the 
Caledonian  Railway  was  made,  the  village  was  removed  and  the  loch  filled  up. 
There  is  on  the  Craigieland  estate,  not  far  distant,  a  place  still  designated  Cautie 
Knowe. 

8  Errickstane. 


Itinerary  in  computed  and  English  measured  miles,  reckoning 
that  2  computed,  make  3  measured  miles — 

Computed  Measured 

Miles.  Miles. 

Gratney  Bridge  in  Scotland,              .             6  S 

Burnswork  Hill,        ...             8  10 

Ecclefegan,                ...             5  6 

Dunfries,                     .             .             .           12  16 


Drumlandrig 
Dumfries, 
Anan, 
Carlisle, 


12  17 

12  17 

12  16 

12  15 

79  105 


A  JOURNEY  ROUND  SCOTLAND  TO 
THE  ORKNEYS 

IN  1760— THIRD  TOUR. 


LETTER  III. 

DUMFRIES,  May  the  6th,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM,1 — On  the  30th  of  April,  early  in  the  morning, 
I  arrived  at  Port  Patrick  in  Scotland,  which  is  a  very  poor 
place.  Here  [Port  Patrick]  they  ship  the  horses  from  a  rock, 
and  when  they  land  them  from  Ireland  they  help  them  out  of 
the  packet-boat  into  the  sea,  when  they  have  brought  the  boat 
as  near  as  they  can  to  the  shore.  This  place  is  in  the  2  Mull 
of  Galway,  which  is  a  peninsula  about  thirty  miles  in  length 
and  six  broad,  made  by  the  bay  of  Loch  Raiyen  to  the 
north,  and  the  bay  of  Glenluce  to  the  south.  It  was  part  of 
the  country  of  the  Novantae,  and  called  the  Chersonesus  of  the 
Novantae  by  Ptolemy.  I  went  six  miles  to  Stranraer  on  the 
former  bay.  This  was  doubtless  the  ancient  Rerigonium  of 
Ptolemy,  from  which  it  must  have  its  name,  as  the  bay  is 
called  by  him  Rerigonium.  It  is  a  small  neat  town,  with 
an  old  castle  in  it.  The  inhabitants  live  chiefly  by  the  Hering 
fishery,  and  use  boats  built  of  deal,  which  last  five  or  six  years. 
They  manufacture  flannel,  blankets,  and  frize  for  their  own 

1  Bishop  Pococke  set  out  from  his  palace,  Kilkenny,  on  the  1 2th  April  1760, 
for  his  extensive  six  months'  tour  through  Scotland.     He  reached  Dublin  on  the 
23d  April,  and  Donaghadee  on  the  29th,  where  he  embarked  in  the  regular 
packet-boat  for  Portpatrick,  accompanied  by  his  groom  and  valet.     The  letters 
are  addressed  to  his  sister  Miss  Elizabeth  Pococke. 

2  Properly  the  Rhinns  of  Galloway. 


12  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

use.  The  castle  here  was  built  by  the  Kenedys,  from  whom 
Lord  Stair's  famous  place,  Castle  Kenedy,  has  its  name.  It 
is  said  they  were  drove  out  by  the  Dalrymples,  who  now  enjoy 
the  title  of  Stair. 

The  country  of  the  Novantae  comprehends  Galloway  and 
the  shire  of  Aire.  The  former  is  distinguished  into  the 
west  part  called  the  shire  of  Galloway,1  and  to  the  eastern 
part  from  Newton-Stewart,  which  is  called  the  Stewartry  of 
Galloway. 

On  the  first  of  May  I  sett  out  eastward,  and  passed  near 
Castle  Kennedy,  belonging  to  the  late  Lord  Stair,  which  I  saw 
in  1747,  but  it  did  not  answer  my  expectations.2  It  is  on  a 
small  lough,  and  laid  out  in  walks  planted  on  each  side  with 
high  hedges,  and  is  in  a  country  where  nothing  is  seen  from  it 
but  hills  and  mountains  covered  with  heath.  We  had  in  view 
the  sandy  banks  near  the  bay  of  Glanluce,  and  coming  near  to 
the  end  of  that  bay  towards  the  town  of  Glanluce,  I  turned  off 
to  the  left  to  the  Abbey  of  Luce,  about  a  mile  up  the  river 
Luce,  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  Abravannus  of  Ptolemy,  and 
to  have  had  its  name  from  the  primitive  word  Aber  Avon  (the 
mouth  of  the  river).  It  rises  about  twelve  computed  miles  to 
the  north-west.  It  was  an  abbey  of  Cistercians,  called  Glenluce 
or  Vallis  Lucis,  founded  in  1190  by  Rolland,3  Lord  of  Galloway, 
and  Constable  of  Scotland.  The  Monks  were  brought  from 
Melross.  Lawrence  Gordon,  son  to  Alexander,  Bishop  of 
Galloway  and  Archbishop  of  Athens,  was  abbot  of  this  place, 
that  is,  had  the  lands  after  the  Reformation,  his  father 
having  complied  with  the  Reformation,  and  James  VI.  in  his 
favour  erected  Glenluce  into  a  temporal  barony.  His  brother, 
John  Gordon,  Dean  of  Salisbury,  succeeded  him  in  it,  who  gave 
it  to  his  son-in-law,  Sir  Robert  Gordon.4  It  was  afterwards 

1  The  province  of  Galloway  is  divided  into  Wigtownshire  and  the  Stewartry 
of  Kirkcudbright. 

2  The  Lord  Stair  referred  to  died  in  1747.     See  p.  4. 

3  Rolland  was  the  son  of  Uchtred  M'Dowall,  Lord  of  Galloway,  who  built 
Lincluden  Abbey. 

4  Sir  Robert  Gordon  was  the  second  son  of  Alexander,  Earl  of  Sutherland, 
and  was  created  Premier  Knight  Baronet  of  Scotland.     He  married    Louisa 
Gordon  (then  only  15  years  and  2  months  of  age),  only  child  and  heiress  of  John, 
Dean  of  Salisbury  or  Sarum,  and  Lord  of  Longormes  in  France.     Sir  Robert 


GLENLUCE  ABBEY,  GLENLUCE.      13 

united  to  the  see  of  Galloway.  Then  Sir  James  Dalrymple 
was  created  Lord  Glenluce,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Sir 
John,  who  was  Earl  of  Stair.  There  remains  very  little  of  the 
Abbey  Church  except  a  Gothic  pier1  of  the  middle  arch. 
But  to  the  west  of  it  the  chapter-house  2  is  entire,  and  is  about 
24  feet  square,  built  with  a  fine  groined  arch,  supported  by  a 
beautiful  slender  Gothic  pillar  in  the  middle.  Opposite  to  the 
entrance  are  some  carved  ornaments  which  were  probably  over 
the  Abbot's  seat,  and  on  a  scroll  under  a  head  that  supports 
the  arch  is  an  inscription  of  one  line,  which  is  defaced.  The 
ceiling  is  adorned  with  sculpture  of  roses,  and  there  are  two 
shields,3  in  one  is  a  lyon  rampant  with  a  crown,  in  another 
the  same  without  a  crown,  but  there  is  a  crown  on  the 
coat.  Near  this  are  ruins,  probably  of  the  Abbot's  apartments, 
as  to  the  north  4  of  the  church  are  remains  of  what  we  were  told 
was  the  cloister  with  the  dormitory,  and  adjoining  to  that  the 
refectory. 

Half-a-mile  below  this  abbey,  over  the  river,  is  The  Park, 
Sir  Thomas  Hay's,  a  castle  most  beautifully  situated  on  a 
ridge  which  is  the  foot  of  a  hill,  having  towards  the  river  a 
steep  hanging  ground  covered  with  wood,  and  a  more  gentle 
descent  southwards  to  the  meadows  on  the  bay  adorned  with 
trees.  We  soon  came  to  Glanluce,  a  little  town  pleasantly 
situated.  There  we  left  the  road  to  England,  and  went 
a  mile  in  that  which  leads  to  Wigtown,  and  leaving  it  to 
the  right,  we  took  our  way  to  Whithern,  and  in  about  two 
miles  came  to  the  bay  of  Glanluce,  and  travelled  southwards 

was  the  celebrated  historian  of  the  Earldom  of  Sutherland,  which  was  published 
for  the  first  time  in  1813  ;  the  MS.  is  dated  Dornogh,  1630.  The  original  MS. 
is  in  the  charter-room  in  Dunrobin  Castle,  but  a  beautiful  transcript  '  by  Alex- 
ander Munro,  Master  of  the  Musick  School  at  Tain,  Anno  Domini  1736,'  is 
preserved  in  the  Advocates'  Library,  No.  34,  3.  3. 

1  This  pier  still  exists,  it  is  the  eastern  pier  of  the  south  transept  arch. 

2  The  chapter-house  lies  to  the  south  of  the  Church,  not  to  the  west,  being 
part  of  the  range  of  buildings  running  from  the  south  transept,  and  forming  the 
eastern  side  of  the  cloisters.     The  Bishop  has  made  here  a  primary  error  in  the 
points  of  the  compass,  consequently  nearly  all  his  bearings  in  this  district  are 
wrong. 

3  These  shields  carry  respectively  the  lion  rampant  of  Scotland,  tressured  and 
surmounted  by  a  crown  ;  and  the  crowned  lion  of  the  province  of  Galloway. 

4  The  cloisters  and  all  the  monastic  buildings  lie  to  the  south  of  the  churcli, 
the  existing  nave  wall  forming  their  northern  boundary. 


14  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

near  that  bay  about  seven  miles.  They  catch  but  little  fish  in 
this  bay  except  mackrel,  and  between  the  rocks,  when  the 
tide  is  out,  they  find  plenty  of  crabbs  and  lobsters.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  head  of  land  which  is  to  the  east  of  this  bay,  we 
turned  to  eastward,  and  soon  passed  by  Sir  William  Maxwell's,1 
a  castle  with  a  lough 2  before  it,  and  came  to  a  very  pretty 
village  called  Glass'ton  [Glasserton]. 

Two  miles  more  brought  us  to  Whithern,  finely  situated  about 
half-a-mile  3  from  the  sea.  It  is  without  doubt  Leucopibia,  or 
rather  Leucooikia4  of  Ptolemy,  probably  from  the  British  name 
Whithern,  a  white  vessel  or  house.  Here  it  is  said  Ninian,  in  the 
time  of  Theodosius  the  younger,  preaching  the  gospel  to  the 
South  Picts,  built  a  church,  which,  Bede  observes,  was  not  ac- 
cording to  the  British  fashion.  It  is  said  this  church  was  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Martin  ;  and,  inquiring  about  it,  they  told  me  there 
was  a  church  in  the  isle  of  Whithern  dedicated  to  him,  and 
they  have  a  tradition  that  St.  Martin  came  from  Tours  to  this 
island.  Bede  says  this  country  was  in  the  hands  of  the  English 
in  his  time,  and  that  when  Christianity  got  more  ground  here, 
it  was  erected  into  an  episcopal  see  under  the  name  of  Candida 
Casa,  which  name  it  is  said  to  have  had  from  some  white  building. 
I  came  to  this  place  to  examine  into  the  antiquities  of  it. 

1  Third  baronet,  now  represented  by  Sir  Herbert  Eustace  Maxwell,  Bart,  of 
Monreith,  M.P.,  a  gentleman  who  has  done  much  for  the  archaeology  of  Gallo- 
way, and  whose  forthcoming  work  on  the  place-names  and  topography  of  that 
ancient  Province  promises  to  be  of  the  highest  interest. 

2  Known  as  the  '  White  Loch.'     On  its  banks,  a  short  distance  from  the  castle, 
is  situated  Monreith  House,  now  the  family  seat.     The  castle,  which  is  still 
extant,  stands  on  an  ancient  mote,  and  was  occupied  till  the  close  of  last  century. 

3  At  the  nearest  point,  Port-Yerrock,  Whithorn  is  two  miles  distant  from  the  sea. 

4  '  Near  this  [Wigtown]  Ptolemy  places  the  City  Leucopibia,  which  I  know 
not  where  to  look  for ;  yet,  by  the  place,  it  should  be  the  Episcopal  See  of 
Ninian,  which  Bede  calls  Candida  Casa,  and  the  English  and  Scots,  in  the  same 
sense,  Whit-herne.     Now  Ptolemy  might  (as  he  usually  did)  translate  Candida 
Casa  (as  the  Britons  called  it)  into  Leucoikidia,  i.e.  White-houses,  for  which  the 
transcribers  may  have  obtruded  on  us,  Leucopibia.     Furthermore,  in  this  place, 
Ninia,  or  Ninian  the  Brittain,  a  holy  man  (who  first  instructed  the  Southern 
Picts  in  the  Christian  faith  in  the  reign  of  Theodosius  the  younger)  resided,  and 
built  a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Martin.' — Camden,  Edition  1701. 

This  rendering  of  the  term  used  by  the  Greek  geographer  is  quite  unwarrantable, 
and  equally  so  the  attempt  to  identify  it  with  Whithorn.  All  that  is  known  of 
Ptolemy's  Leucopibia  is,  that  it  refers  to  some  place  in  the  country  of  the  Novantes 
and  neighbourhood  of  Luce  Bay. 


WHITHORN,  CANDIDA  CASA.  15 

Going  to  the  church,  I  saw  a  Saxon l  gateway,  on  one  side  of 
which  are  the  episcopal  arms,  as  they  said,  three  chalices,  but 
they  seemed  to  be  incense  pots,  and  another  coat,  quartered, 
which  appeared  like  a  belt.  Coming  to  the  present  church, 
on  the  south  side  of  it  is  a  very  old  Saxon  door-case,  a  view 
of  which  is  here  given,  and  in  another  part  a  Gothic  door  of 
several  members.2  I  am  in  doubt  whether  this  might  not  be 
the  old  church,  the  cornice  being  very  simple,  consisting  of  a 
fillet  and  quarter  round,  and  the  quire  seems  to  have  been 
east  of  it,  as  they  say  the  church  extended  that  way,  and  the 
cloister  to  the  south.3  There  are  two  arches,4  part  of  large 
rooms  remaining  a  little  further  to  the  south,  and  east  of  that 
is  what  they  call  the  Prior's  house.  Near  the  supposed 
choir  is  a  burial  vault  for  the  Priors,  the  last  of  whom,  they 
say,  was  of  the  name  of  Flemming,5  and  near  this  is  a  large 


1  Here,  as  elsewhere  throughout  these  letters,  the  term  '  Saxon '  is  a  misnomer, 
and,  as  used  by  Bishop  Pococke,  merely  designates  a  round  arch  of  any  period  in 
contradistinction  to  a  pointed  arch.     The  gateway  mentioned  still  exists,  and  is 
known  as  '  The  Pend,'  giving  access  from  the  main  street  to  the  Parish  Church, 
churchyard,  manse,  etc. 

The  arch  itself,  here  called  'Saxon,'  is  modern,  not  older  than  1 7th  century. 
The  pillars  at  the  sides,  bearing  the  arms  referred  to,  are  said  to  have  been  taken 
from  the  Prior's  House,  and  may  be  of  the  15th  century.  The  shield  on  the  right- 
hand  pillar  is  surmounted  by  a  mitre,  and  no  doubt  represents  the  arms  of  the 
Bishop  of  Galloway  when  the  Priory  House  was  erected.  It  is  quarterly,  first 
and  fourth  a  bend  dexter  for  Vans,  second  and  third  the  objects  referred  to  by 
Dr.  Pococke,  which  are  neither  chalices  nor  incense  pots,  but  the  three  covered 
cups  forming  the  cognizance  of  the  Shaws,  quartered  owing  to  marriage  of  Blaise 
Vaux  of  Barnbarroch  with  Elizabeth,  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  John  Shaw  of 
Haillie.  On  the  left-hand  pillar  is  a  shield  charged  with  a  bend  dexter  diapered, 
and  a  pastoral  staff  behind  it  in  pale,  most  probably  representing  the  arms  of  the 
Prior,  who  seems  also  to  have  been  a  Vans.  It  is  singular  no  mention  is  made 
of  a  large  panel  immediately  over  the  arch  with  the  Scottish  Arms  as  borne  before 
the  Union,  and  forming  the  most  prominent  feature  of  '  The  Pend.' 

2  Both  of  these  doorways  are  still  extant,  the  one  of  the  1 2th  and  the  other 
probably  of  the  I5th  century.     It  was  'the  old  church,'  or  at  least  its  nave, 
and  then  used  as  the  Parish  Church.     A  good  part  of  the  cornice  or  water  tabling 
referred  to  still  exists. 

3  The  cloisters  and  "monastic  buildings  at  Whi thorn  must  have  been  undoubtedly 
to  the  north  of  the  Church. 

4  These  arches  existed  within  living  memory,  and  were  only  demolished  in 
1822  in  clearing  the  site  for  the  present  Parish  Church,  which  is  founded  through- 
out on  ancient  remains. 

5  Malcolm  Fleming  was  prior  in  1540,  and  died  1568. 


16 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1750. 


vault l  open  at  one  end.  For  in  the  time  of  David  the  First, 
Fergus,  Lord  of  Galloway,  founded  here  a  priory  of  Premon- 
stratenses,  the  members  of  which  composed  dean  and  chapter 
of  the  Cathedral.  James  Betune,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews 
[1522]  and  Chancellor  of  Scotland,  was  prior  of  this  place. 


Norman  Doorway,  Whithorn  Priory.2 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  southeast  of  the  town,  towards  the 
sea,  is  what  they  call  the  Castle  of  Bishopstown,  which,  it  is  said, 

1  Crypt  of  the  south  transept.     This  has  been  recently  cleared  out,  and  made 
the  starting-point  of  extensive  excavations  undertaken  at  the  instance  of  the  Ayr 
and   Galloway  Archaeological   Association.      In  a   forthcoming  volume  of  the 
Association,  Mr.  W.  Galloway,  F.S.A.  Scot.,  purposes  to  fully  illustrate  all  the 
buildings,  etc.,  of  the  Priory. 

2  This  doorway  is  illustrated  in  Ecclesiological  Notes  on  Some  of  the  Islands  of 
Scotland,  by  T.  S.  Muir,  Edin.  1885,  Frontispiece  and  p.  234. 


ISLE  OF  WHITHORN.  17 

was  the  Bishop^s  house.  It  seems  to  have  been  an  oblong  square.1 
They  speak  of  the  garden  extending  towards  the  sea,  and  it  is 
indeed  a  most  delightfull  situation.  This  town  consists  mostly 
of  farmers  and  a  few  tradesmen  and  manufacturers  in  woollen 
and  linnen  for  home  consumption.  There  is  a  square  tower  in 
the  middle  of  the  street,  which  they  always  keep  well  whitened. 
At  the  market-house  is  an  old  font 2  in  shape  of  a  capital,  with 
sort  of  reliefs  at  the  top,  something  like  the  roses  of  a  capital 
of  the  Corinthian  order.  This  they  say  always  lay  there,  and 
that  the  papists  used  to  dip  their  children  in  it  at  baptism.  It 
was  probably  a  font  brought  from  the  church.  A  little  way 
out  of  town,  towards  the  isle  of  Whithern,  is  a  stone  like  a 
boundary,  with  a  cross  on  it  in  a  wheel.  As  the  name  of  Peter  3 
is  on  it,  the  common  people  say  St.  Peter  was  buried  there.  It 
was  probably  put  up  in  memory  of  some  like  event.  In  all  their 
towns  they  set  up  dials  on  a  pillar  at  the  old  market  cross.4 

Going  to  the  isle,  I  saw  they  had  been  digging  for  coal,  and 
had  raised  a  fine  sandy  yellow  clay,  but  were  obstructed  by  the 
water.  I  could  learn  no  other  reason  for  their  sinking  for  coals, 
but  that  it  was  in  the  right  line  from  Whitehaven,  I  suppose 
north-west.  I  came  to  the  isle,  which  is  a  little  harbour 
formed  by  a  pier,  within  which  they  have  18  feet  water  at  high 
tydes,  and  a  ship  of  300  tuns  can  come  in.  They  export  barley, 
and  import  plank  and  iron  from  Gottenburgh  in  Sweden,  and 
send  it  by  boats  to  Wigtown,  as  the  entrance  and  harbour 
there  are  not  good.  There  is  a  bridge  over  to  the  island,  under 
which  the  sea  passes  at  high  water.  The  principal  houses  are 
on  the  west  side  of  it,  and  on  the  Isle  near  the  bridge  is  a  row 
of  poor  houses.  This  part  of  the  isle  is  flat,  and  in  high  seas 
the  water  seems  to  have  come  over  and  divided  it  from  the 

1  This  site  is  still  pointed  out,  but  being  under  the  plough,  all  traces  of  the 
building  have  disappeared. 

2  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  was  the  original  font  pertaining  to  the  lath 
century  church,  and  was  recently  removed  from  the  Town  Hall  to  its  former  place 
in  the  Priory. 

3  '  Hie  est  locus  Petri  Apostoli '  is  the  inscription  on  the  stone,  according  to 
Dr.  Davidson  in  the  Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  xvi.  p.  287,  but  the  more  correct  reading 
is  'Loci  Ti  Petri  Apvstoli.'    For  illustrations  see  Stuart's  Sc.  St.  Scot.,  part  ii. 
pi.  Ixxvii.,  Muir's  Notes,  p.  233,  Anderson's  Scot,  in  Early  Chris.  Times,  vol.  ii. 
p.  252. 

4  Removed  with  the  old  Town  Hall  in  1814. 

B 


18  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

rising  ground  beyond  it,  on  which  there  is  a  small  church.  The 
stones l  have  been  taken  out  of  the  door  and  windows.  There  is 
only  one  remarkable  thing  in  it,  that  on  the  south  side  of  the 
east  window,  is  a  rough  stone2  that  projects  about  eighteen 
inches,  which  probably  was  to  set  the  vessels  on  for  the  sacra- 
ment. The  ground  rises  higher  beyond  the  church,  and  the 
east 3  end  of  the  island  has  been  defended  by  a  fossee,  which 
seemed  to  be  very  old,  and  it  is  probable  that  this  was  the 
ancient  Candida  Casa. 

On  the  second  of  May  I  set  out,  and  in  about  two  miles 
passed  Powtoun,4  Lord  Galway's  seat,  and  three  miles  from 
Wigtown  came  to  the  Downs  of  Wigtown,  which  are  very  fine 
and  edged  with  beautiful  small  hills.  The  top  of  one  of  them 
has  been  fortified.  This  down,  as  it  is  all  called,  is  towards 
the  river  a  marsh.  Here  they  graze  a  great  number  of  small 
oxen,  which  they  send  to  a  fair  near  Norwich,  and  they  are 
fattened  for  six  months  in  Norfolk,  Suffolk,  and  Essex,  for  the 
London  market.5  Though  small,  they  are  larger  than  the 
common  Scotch  kind.  We  passed  over  the  river  Cree6  on  a 
large  bridge,  and  soon  came  up  to  Wigtown,  the  capital  of 
Galloway,  most  delightfully  situated  on  an  eminence  which 
commands  a  view  of  this  river,  the  bay,  the  sea,  and  all  the 
adjacent  coasts  of  Scotland  and  England.  It  consists  of  one 
broad  street  which,  about  the  cross  and  market  house,  is  like  a 
square,  and  the  houses  are  tolerable,  but  below  it  is  narrower, 
with  thatched  houses  on  each  side.  The  church  is  old,  but 
the  large  Gothic  east  window  is  walled  up.  I  could  not  get  any 
account  of  a  Dominican  convent  here,  founded  in  1267  by 
Dervorgilla,  daughter  of  Alexander,7  Lord  Galloway,  and  mother 
of  John  Bruce  [Baliol]  King  of  Scotland.  Near  three  miles 
from  this  is  a  ferry  to  Ferrytown,  and  a  ford  at  low  water. 

1  The  only  exception  is  the  freestone  sill  of  north  window. 

2  This  stone  is  still  in  situ.  3  South  end,  not  east. 

4  Powton  House,  a  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  is  3^  miles  from  Whithorn. 

6  'At  the  close  of  the  third  quarter  of  last  century  [i.e.  1675]  from  20,000 
to  30,000  Galloways  [black  polled  cattle]  were  annually  driven  from  their  native 
pastures,  feeding  as  they  went  along  the  old  well-worn  trails  to  the  Norfolk  or 
Suffolk  fairs  or  markets,  where  they  were  bought  up  and  fattened  for  the  London 
Market.' — Agriciil.  Reports  Scot.  1794-95. 

6  Bladenoch  River,  not  the  Cree.  7  Alan,  not  Alexander. 


WIGTOWN,  NEWTON-STEWART.  19 

We  had  a  very  pleasant  ride,  passed  by  Clary,  a  pleasant 
situation,  being  a  ruined  house  of  Lord  Galloway's,  and  came 
to  Newtown-Stewart,  situated  in  a  narrow  valley,  much  like  the 
face  of  Switzerland,  adorned  with  firr  groves.  Some  of  the  low 
hills  are  covered  with  wood,  and  there  are  high  mountains  to 
the  north. — I  am,  etc.1 


LETTER  IV. 

ORTON,2  May  loth,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — Newtown-Stewart  is  a  neat  little  town,  and 
there  is  a  fine  bridge  of  four  arches  over  the  river.  On  the 
3d  I  went  two  miles  to  Garlais  Castle  in  the  middle  of  a 
wood.  It  is  much  destroyed,  but  there  were  great  buildings 
about  it.  This  place  gives  title  to  Lord  Galloway's  eldest 
son.  What  is  called  Cromwell's  map,  or  the  Quartermaster's, 
is  so  imperfect  in  these  parts  that  I  shall  not  attempt  to  correct 
it.  I  returned  to  Newtown,  and  came  six  miles  to  Ferrytown,3 
passing  by  some  holes  where  they  had  attempted  to  get  lead,4 
but  it  did  not  answer.  They  had  the  same  fortune  about  three 
miles  above  Newtown.5  Ferrytown  is  a  poor  little  place  on  the 
side  of  the  hill.  We  turned  to  the  east  and  came  among  dis- 
agreeable mountains,  travelled  over  a  hill  to  a  vale,  and  over 

1  None  of  the  following  letters  are  signed,  and  it  is  more  than  probable  the 
originals  were  not.     (See  note  2. )      Three  of  Dr.  Pococke's  original  letters,  dated 
1743,  describing  places  in  the  midland  counties  of  England,  in  the  possession  of 
Robert  Malcomson,  Esq.,  Bennekerry  Lodge,  Carlo w,  are  all  unsigned.     From 
these,  and  others  in  the  British  Museum,  it  would  seem  not  to  have  been  the 
Doctor's  habit  to  subscribe  merely  descriptive  accounts. 

2  In  the  MS.  this  place  is  written  Corcum  instead  of  Orton  in  Westmoreland, 
and  is  evidently  a  lapsus  pemxz,  arising  from  the  difficulty  of  deciphering  hastily 
written  place-names  in  the  original  letters.     Nearly  all  the  volumes  of  letters 
relating  to   Scotland  are   the  work  of  an  amanuensis,  and  were    apparently 
written  under  the  personal  superintendence  of  Bishop  Pococke  after  his  return  to 
Ireland  ;  the  originals  were  then  probably  destroyed.    It  seems  to  have  been  the 
Bishop's  practice  to  locate  and  date  the  letters  immediately  before  franking  them 
by  the  mail-coach ;  thus  Orton,  if  scrawlingly  written,  might  easily  have  been 
misread  Corcum.     See  note,  p.  32. 

3  The  Ferrytown  of  Cree,  Creetown. 

4  Traces  of  these  old  mines  still  exist  at  Balcraig,  a  short   distance   from 
Newton-Stewart  on  the  Creetown  road.     At  a  place  a  little  further  on,  lead 
mining  was  prosecuted  latterly  with  considerable  success. 

5  Perhaps  the  '  Wood  of  Cree  '  mine,  where  traces  of  old  workings  still  exist. 


20  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

two  more  to  that  pleasant  romantic  country  through  which 
the  river  Flete l  runs  into  the  bay,  and  came  to  the  inn 
called  Gatehouse  of  Flete.  From  the  highest  mountain2  we 
passed  I  saw  two  other  chains  of  mountains.  From  the  south 
side  of  the  first  I  suppose  the  two  or  three  rivers  to  the  east 
rise  which  run  southward  into  the  sea,  and  from  the  other 
side  the  Nyth.3  From  the  second  chain  I  suppose  the  Clyde, 
the  Anan,  the  Tweed,  and  the  Esk  have  their  rise,  as  well  as 
the  several  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Tweed.  I  went  a  mile  to 
see  Caerdynas  4  on  a  little  eminence  over  the  Flete,  naturally 
strong.  It  is  a  very  fine  old  castle  about  thirty  by  forty 
feet  within.  The  walls  are  twelve  feet  thick,  and  many  closets 
are  practiced  in  them.  There  was  a  dark  story  under  the 
arch  above  the  ground  floor,  and  four  stories  over  it.  The  first 
is  a  grand  room  with  a  Saxon  chimneypiece  of  which  there  is  a 
drawing  on  the  other  side,  B.  Over  it  were  two  rooms.  In  the 
inner  is  another  chimneypiece  in  the  same  style,  which  see  at  A. 

There  were  two  rooms  in  the  other  two  stories.  The 
coins  of  the  building  are  very  fine.  This  was  the  castle  of  the 
Maculloghs,  and  now  belongs  to  the  Maxwells,  some  of  that 
family  living  near  it.  There  is  a  little  creek  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  which  opens  into  the  bay,  called  by  Ptolemy  Jena.5 

On  the  5th  I  left  the  Gatehouse,  and  going  soon  to  the 
right,  off  from  the  road  to  Dumfries,  came  in  five  miles  to  a 
small  river  called  the  Tarf,  and  in  another  mile  to  Tungland  6 
on  the  Dee,  which  is  generally  thought  to  be  the  Deva 
of  Ptolemy,  over  which  we  passed  on  a  fine  bridge,  built 
out  of  the  abbey,  where  the  Parish  church  now  is,  with  a 
Saxon  doorcase  to  it.  The  abbey  is  entirely  ruined,  and  great 
part  of  it  was  lately  undermined  for  the  sake  of  the  stone.  It 
was  an  abbey  of  Praemonstratenses,  founded  by  Fergus,  Lord  of 
Galloway,  in  the  twelfth  century.  Two  miles  below  this  is  a 
town  and  large  castle  called  Kirkcudbright,  commonly  called 
Kirkoubry.  Here  in  the  harbour,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dee, 

1  Fleet. 

2  The  three  mountains  are  distinguished  in  a  local  distich  as — 

'  Cairnsmuir  o'  Fleet,  Cairnsmuir  o'  Dee, 
Cairnsmuir  o'  Carsphairn,  the  biggest  o'  a'  the  three. ' 

3  Nith.  4  Cardonness. 

5  Fleet  bay,  part  of  the  Roman  lena  ^Istuarium.         6  Tongueland. 


CARDONNESS  CASTLE. 


B. — Chimneypiece  in  Cardonness  Castle.l 


A. — Chimneypiece  in  Cardonness  Castle.l 


1  In  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot,  a  view  of  the  '  Interior  of 
Hall'  is  given,  showing  the  position  of  both  chimneypieces,  but  the  lintel  of  the 
lower  one  (A)  is  gone.  Vide  vol.  i.  p.  246. 


22  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

King  William  embarked  his  troops  when  he  sailed  for  Ireland. 
It  is  defended  against  the  weather  by  two  or  three  islands. 
One  of  them  is  called  Mary's  Island,  in  which  Lord  Selkirk 


The  North  End  cf  the  Church  of  the  Abbey  of  Dundrennan. 

lives,  next  heir  to  the  Duke  of  Douglas,  and  his  grandfather 
was  Duke  of  Hamilton.  Kirkoubry  is  a  stewartry  of  the  shire 
of  Galloway,  of  which  this  town  is  the  capital.  Here  was  a 
monastery  of  Conventuals,  of  which  Jno.  Carpenter  was  a  great 


KIRKCUDBRIGHT,  DUNDRENNAN  ABBEY.      23 

engineer,  and  in  the  time  of  David  the  second,  fortified  Dun- 
barton  castle.  They  have  a  considerable  salmon  fishery  here. 
At  Saint  Mary's  Island,  Fergus,  Lord  Galloway,  founded  a 
priory  of  Canons  Regular  in  the  time  of  David  the  First.  It 
was  called  Prioratus  sanctae  Maria?  de  Trayl.1  The  prior  was  a 
lord  of  Parliament. 


An  Arch  of  the  inside  of  the  Church  of  Dundrennan  Abbey. 

We  came  about  five  miles  over  the  mountains  to  Dundrennan, 
a  small  village  in  which  there  are  most  magnificent  remains  of 
a  fine  abbey.  It  was  founded  by  Fergus,  Lord  of  Galloway, 
in  1142,  for  Cistercians,  who  were  brought  from  Rieval2  in 

1  From  the  previous  name  of  the  island,  Trahil  or  Trayl. 

2  Rivaulx,  N.  R.  of  Yorkshire. 


24  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

England.  King  James  the  Sixth  annexed  it  to  the  chapel 
at  Stirling.  The  Chronicle  of  Melross  is  said  to  have 
been  writ  by  an  abbot  of  this  place,  being  a  continuation  of 
Bedels  History.  Alexander,1  Lord  of  Galloway,  and  Constable 
of  Scotland,  was  buried  here  in  1233.  The  Abbey  is  built  of 
a  freestone  brought  a  mile  off'  from  Lougli  Nadir.  The  church 
is  much  in  the  style  of  that  of  Christ  Church  in  Hampshire, 
the  Saxon  and  Gothic  mixed.  The  west  part  is  entirely 
destroyed,  except  that  the  Gothic  arch  on  each  side  leading 
to  the  Isle  remains.  The  east  part  is  standing.  It  consists 
of  Saxon  windows  above.  To  the  south  of  the  altar  is  a  Nich 
with  an  arch,  and  further  west  are  three  Gothick  niches,  as 
for  the  priest,  and  the  two  persons  who  assisted  at  the  sacra- 
ment. Opposite  to  this  there  seem  to  have  been  ornaments, 
which  are  taken  away.  They  speak  of  one  part  which  was 
called  the  sanctum  sanctorum,  which  was  probably  the  choir. 
The  cross  isle  is  very  grand  on  the  east  side.  In  both  parts 
are  three  Gothic  arches  leading  to  so  many  chappels.  Over 
each  of  the  southern  arches  are  two  Gothic  windows,  and  over 
the  northern  two  couplets  of  Gothic  windows,  all  supported  by 
Saxon  pilastres  and  capitals,  some  plain,  in  the  general  style  of 
the  church,  others  with  leaves,  but  those  leaves  are  mostly 
plain,  and  over  these  is  one  Saxon  window  to  each  of  the  great 
arches,  which  are  supported  by  pillars  consisting  of  twelve 
semicircular  pilastres,  as  the  grand  pillars  which  supported 
the  middle  arch, — fallen  in,  consisted  of  twenty.  I  had  a 
drawing  taken  of  the  side  arches,  and  of  the  north  end  of 
the  church.  The  plainest  part  of  the  church  and  the  least 
adorned  is  the  west  side,  in  which  there  are  only  two  or  three 
Saxon  windows  on  each  skle  of  the  body  of  the  church.  The 
grand  gate  of  entrance  to  the  abbey  is  opposite  to  the  east  end 
of  the  church. 

From  the  south  end  of  the  church  was  a  covered  way  to  the 
cloyster,  which  was  large.  Part  of  the  inside  wall  remains, 
adorned  with  Gothic  arched  niches.  On  the  east  side  of  the 
cloister,  and  to  the  south  of  the  church,  was  the  chapter  house, 
with  a  beautiful  Gothic  doorcase,  and  Gothic  windows  on  each 
side,  highly  adorned  with  carved  work  over  each  window ;  and, 
1  Alan,  not  Alexander. 


DUNDRENNAN  ABBEY,  AUCHENCAIRN.        25 

in  particular,  there  is  a  cross  l  in  a  circle  cut  like  Constantine's 
Gross.  On  the  north  side  is  a  large  arched  Nich,  and  there 
seem  to  have  been  one  on  each  side,  and  probably  the  same  on 
the  other  two  sides.  To  the  south  of  this  seems  to  have  been 
the  refectory,  and  the  kitchen  near  it ;  and  many  arched  offices 
to  the  west  of  the  cloyster.  They  say  Queen  Mary  came  to 
this  abbey,  took  boat  near  it,  and  landed  near  Workington, 
when  she  escaped  from  the  castle  of  Kinross,2  and  fled  from  her 
enemies  to  England,  and  never  returned  more. 

I  went  three  miles  to  Aghakern  3  (the  field  of  the  earn),  a 
village  so  called  from  a  earn  near.  They  found  some  iron 
ore  about  this  place,  but  it  did  not  answer  in  the  smelting. 
They  have  also  searched  for  coal  at  Roscorriel,  at  a  small 
distance,  and  propose  to  carry  it  on  by  subscription.  This 
place  is  near  the  river  Our  or  Orr,4  in  which  they  have 
a  bed  of  oysters,  and  they  catch  in  the  sea  cod  and  Mackrel, 
but  they  have  no  herings  in  this  part,  as  they  probably 
go  to  the  west  of  the  Isle  of  Man.  They  have  many  mounts 
in  this  country,  which  they  call  motes,  and  they  imagine  the  use 
of  them  was  to  hold  their  moots  or  meetings  on  publick  bussi- 
ness,  and  that  they  have  their  names  from  this  circumstance. 

About  twelve  years  agoe  they  found  here,  on  the  estate 
of  Mr.  Maxwel5  of  Minches,  a  bed  of  cockle-shells  about 
a  foot  under  ground,  and  four  feet  deep,  extending  over  three 
acres  of  ground,  which  are  most  excellent  manure.  They  use 

1  A  Greek  or  Byzantine  cross,  equal  armed,  and  enclosed  in  a  circle, — a 
favourite  type  in  the  south-west  counties. 

•  Lochleven  Castle,  near  Kinross.  s  Auchencairn.  4  Urr. 

5  Munches  was  then  owned  and  occupied  by  Mr.  John  Maxwell,  a  distin- 
guished agricultural  improver.  He  wrote  an  interesting  letter  when  in  his  gist 
year,  describing  his  early  recollections  of  the  state  of  agriculture  and  social  con- 
dition of  the  people  in  the  Stewartry  :  see  New  Stat.  Ac.,  Kirkcudbright,  vol. 
iv.  p.  206.  Mr.  Maxwell  is  also  remembered  as  a  friend  of  Burns  ;  when  he 
attained  his  7 1st  birthday  the  bard  presented  him  with  a  complimentary 
address.  The  wishes  expressed  in  the  lines — 

'  I  see  thy  life  is  stuff"  o'  prief, 
Scarce  quite  half  worn,' 
and — 

'  That  bounteous  Heaven 
On  thee  a  tack  o'  seven  times  seven 

Will  yet  bestow,' 
were  almost  prophetic,  for  Mr.  Maxwell  lived  to  the  age  of  ninety-four  years. 


26  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

also  sea-shells  in  this  country  for  the  same  purpose,  at  the 
expensive  carriage  of  seven  or  eight  pounds  for  an  acre.  They 
have  grouse  and  the  black  game  on  the  mountains,  and  abund- 
ance of  foxes.  They  have  also  a  wild  cat  three  times  as  big  as 
the  common  cat,  as  the  pollcat  is  less.  They  are  of  a  yellow 
red  colour,  their  breasts  and  sides  white.  They  take  fowls  and 
lambs,  and  brede  two  at  a  time.  I  was  assured  that  they 
sometimes  bring  forth  in  a  large  bird^s  nest,  to  be  out  of  the 
reach  of  dogs ;  and  it  is  said  they  will  attack  a  man  who 
would  attempt  to  take  their  young  ones,  but  they  often 
shoot  them  and  take  the  young.  The  county  pays  about 
£20  a-year  to  a  person  who  is  obliged  to  come  and  destroy 
the  foxes  when  they  send  to  him. 

On  the  6th  I  went  on  through  pleasant  vales  edged  with 
rocky  hills  and  mountains,  thinly  covered  with  trees  and  shrubs, 
and  some  small  lakes  interspersed,  and  passed  by  the  round 
castle  of  Sir  Thomas  Maxwell,  the  walls  of  which,  I  was  told, 
are  twelve  feet  thick,  but  they  have  practiced  several  closets  in 
them,  which  make  it  a  convenient  house.  We  passed  the  Our l 
on  a  bridge,  and  came,  in  two  miles,  to  Caer  Gunnian.2 
I  observed  the  little  church  was  old,  with  a  round  window 
in  the  east  end,  and  a  cross  in  relief  over  the  door.  I  was 
told  that  about  two  miles  from  Caerlwork,3  in  the  road  to 
Dumfries  from  the  Gatehouse,  there  are  two  or  three  ancient 
round  encampments  on  hills. 

As  the  new  map4  places  Carbantum  on  the  Deva,  in  the 
situation  of  Caer  Gunnian,  one  would  be  inclined  to  think  that 

1  Urr.  2  Kirkgunzeon. 

3  This  is  evidently  a  slip  ;  should  be  Kirkgunzeon. 

4  In  a  note  to  an  Irish  letter  Dr.  Pococke  wrote  :  '  As  I  shall  often  refer  to  the 
new  Itinerary,  and  Map  of  Richard  of  Cirencester,  a  monk  of  Westminster, 
found  in  Denmark,  and  lately  published  by  Bertram  (which  was  probably  taken 
out  of  the  library  at  Westminster),  so  I  shall  distinguish  them  [from  Cromwell's 
map  and  others]  by  the  names  of  the  New  Map  and  Itinerary. ' 

Throughout  his  whole  journey  Dr.  Pococke  laboured  to  identify  the  places  he 
visited  with  Richard's  map,  and  doubtless  believed  he  was  doing  a  signal  service 
to  historical  research.  This  is  not  surprising  when  we  remember  that  Bertram's 
book  had  been  only  published  five  years,  and  had  been  accepted  by  eminent 
archaeologists,  including  Dr.  Stukely,  a  correspondent  of  the  bishop's,  who  most 
probably  urged  him  to  carry  the  map  on  his  journey  through  Scotland. 

Bertram's  De  Situ  is  now  universally  admitted  to  be  a  base  literary  forgery, 
and  we  may  dismiss  it  by  quoting  the  trenchant  conclusions  of  Mr.  Mayor's 


NEW  ABBEY.  27 

the  Orr  was  the  Deva,  if  the  name  of  Dee  did  not  rather  favour 
the  other  opinion.  We  left  the  road  to  Dumfries  to  the  right, 
and  came  to  a  lake  with  an  island  in  it,  covered  with  wood,  to 
which  a  small  kind  of  eagle  resorts  that  they  call  a  yern,  which 
frequents  the  rocky  mountains  near,  and  preys  on  hens  and 
lambs. 

Four  miles  brought  us,  by  a  very  rough  road  through  a 
valley  and  over  hills  covered  with  stones  of  grey  granite,  to 
what  they  call  commonly  the  New  Abbey,  situated  under  a 
hill  to  the  north  of  a  very  pleasant  fruitful  country,  extending 
to  the  sea  and  to  the  bay,  with  small  hills  in  it  adorned 
with  wood,  and  a  lake  between  the  foot  of  the  mountains  with 
two  islands  in  it,  being  under  the  mountain  which  is  to  the 
west,  and  it  is  computed  to  be  the  highest  in  all  these  parts, 
it  is  called  Scrufel.1 

There  is  a  poor  village  close  to  the  New  Abbey,  which  was 
founded  by  Dervorgilla,  daughter  to  Alexander,2  Lord  of  Gal- 
loway, wife  of  John  Baliol,  Lord  of  Castle  Bernard,  who  died 
in  1260,3  and  was  buried  here  ; 4  and  his  heart,  being  embalmed, 
put  in  a  box  of  ivory,  and  enclosed  in  a  vault  near  the  high 
altar,  it  was  called  'the  abbey  of  sweet  heart,' — Abbacia 
dulcis  cordis,  or  suavi  cordium — afterwards  changed  into  the 
name  of  New  Abbey.  Sir  Robert  Spotieswood,  President  of 
the  [Court  of]  Session,  and  Secretary  of  State  to  Charles  the 

exhaustive  analysis  of  the  work.  He  says :  '  If  these  criticisms  are  just,  Bertram's 
success  is  a  signal  reproach  on  the  historical  inquiries  of  the  last  120  years.  To 
say  nothing  of  antiquaries  whose  canons  of  evidence  are  so  lax  that  they  cite  a 
supposed  monk  of  1400  A.D.  as  authority  for  events  of  1000  B.C.,  we  find  a 
forger  alike  contemptible  as  penman,  Latinist,  historian,  geographer,  critic, 
imposing  upon  members  of  the  Royal  and  Antiquarian  Societies,  and  of  the  two 
ancient  universities,  of  the  youthful  society — D.  U.  K.,  on  the  writers  of 
Germany,  and  Denmark,  of  England  and  of  Scotland  (this  last  bribed  by  the 
invention  of  Vespasiana).' — Ricardi  de  Cirencestria  Speculum  Historiale  De 
Gestis  Regum  Anglic,  by  John  E.  B.  Mayor,  M.A.,  1869,  vol.  ii.,  clxiv. 

1  Criffel,  1867  feet.  2  Alan,  not  Alexander.  3  1269. 

4  John  Baliol,  Devorgilla's  husband,  was  not  buried  in  New  Abbey,  but  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Barnard  Castle,  his  heart  having  been  previously  taken 
out,  embalmed,  and  placed  in  an  ivory  casket.  When  Devorgilla  died  at  an 
advanced  age,  her  body  was  interred  in  New  Abbey,  and,  in  obedience  to  her 
dying  wish,  the  heart  of  her  husband  was  placed  upon  her  bosom  ;  '  another 
affecting  illustration,'  as  it  has  been  said,  '  of  the  strong  love  which  made  them 
one.'  Owing  to  this  circumstance  the  sacred  edifice  bore  afterwards  the  name  of 
Duke  Cor,  or  Sweetheart  Abbey. 


28  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

First,  was  designed  Lord  of  New  Abbey,  to  whom  the  dissolved 
abbey  was  granted.  The  common  people  say  that  she  [Dervor- 
gilla]  had  her  husband's  heart  put  into  a  box  of  ebony  within 
a  box  of  gold,  and  deposited  it  in  the  church,  which  is  built  of 
red  freestone  that  is  dug  near.  It  is  a  uniform  Gothic  building, 
and  seems  at  first  to  have  been  designed  with  single  pointed 
windows,  but  afterwards  to  have  been  changed  to  the  Gothic, 


West  Front  of  the  Church  of  the  New  Abbey. 

composed  of  several  arches,  with  circles  on  each  side  to  fill  up 
the  intermediate  spaces.  There  are  four  chapels  on  the  east 
side  of  the  transept.  The  arch  of  the  grand  tower  is  built  on 
four  fine  arches,  supported  by  pillars  consisting  of  twenty  half 
round  pilastres.  These  six  arches  on  each  side  of  the  body 
consist  of  twelve,  with  plain  capitals.  A  large  window  seems 
to  have  been  first  designed  in  the  west  end,  which  has  been 


NEW  ABBEY.  29 

built  up,  and  now  there  are  only  two  long  windows  in  it. 
Over  these  is  a  fine  round  window  divided  into  twelve  com- 
partments like  those  of  Westminster  Abbey,  and  over  this  is  a 
triangular  window  case,  the  window  without  being  in  the  shape 
of  the  trefoil,  both  of  them  emblems  of  the  Trinity,  which  is 
very  particular.  In  the  top  of  the  south  end  of  the  transept 
is  part  of  a  round  window,  but  the  gabel  end  of  the  chapter 
house  building  rises  above  the  middle  of  it,  and  takes  off  so 
much  of  the  window.  A  view  of  both  are  here  seen. 


South  End  of  the  Church  of  the  New  Abbey. 

The  Isles  are  destroyed,  so  that  the  six  arches  of  the  body 
of  the  church  appear  in  view.  To  the  south  of  the  cross  is  the 
passage,  probably  to  the  abbot's  lodging,  over  the  chapter 
house,  which  consists  of  two  groin  arches  without  a  pillar. 
South  of  that  seems  to  have  been  the  refectory.  West  of  this 
was  the  cloister,  and  in  it,  near  the  refectory,  a  cistern  for 
water  remains  entire,  with  fine  semi-circular  basons.  They 
talk  much  of  money  found  in  several  parts,  and  the  communion 
plate  which  was  sold  for  brass,  but  all  this  is  doubtful.  The 


30  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

last  abbot  of  the  place  was  living  on  some  lands  adjacent  in 
the  memory  of  some  very  old  people  who  were  lately  living. 
I  was  informed  that  this  abbey  was  but  just  finished  before  the 
Reformation.  Before  I  knew  this  I  saw  plainly  the  church 
had  been  altered,  and  most  part  of  the  body  added  to  it,  for 
the  windows  over  two  of  the  arches  consist  of  four  plain  pointed 
arches.  The  others  have  a  little  arch  on  each  side,  and  I  had 
reason  to  think  that  the  whole  consisted  of  windows  of  a  single 
pointed  arch,  and  could  perceive  that  several  of  the  windows 
had  been  made  new  in  the  high  Gothic  taste. 

I  came  six  miles  near  the  Nith,  the  old  Novius  or  Nidius, 
having  a  bog  to  the  right,  and  pleasant  hills  to  the  left,  to 
Dumfries  in  Nythesdale,  where  I  was  in  1747.1  This  town 
carried  on  a  great  tobacco  trade  until  the  Tobacco  Act  passed, 
which  destroyed  that  commerce ;  and  the  people  being  grown 
rich,  and  their  money  not  employed  in  trade,  they  have  lately 
adorned  the  town  with  beautiful  buildings  of  the  red  hewn 
freestone,  and  the  streets  are  most  exceedingly  well  paved. 
They  have  a  handsome  Townhouse,  and  all  is  kept  very  clean, 
so  that  it  is  one  of  the  neatest  towns  in  Great  Britain,  and 
very  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Nith,  over  which  there  is  a 
large  bridge ;  and,  as  the  Assizes  are  held  here  for  all  the  south 
part  of  Scotland,  the  town  is  much  frequented  by  lawyers. 
The  shiping  lie  under  Skrefel,2  eight  miles  below  Dumfries, 
and  come  up  three  miles  higher  to  unload  at  Glanteyrel3 
Here  was  a  Friery  of  Conventuals  founded  by  the  same  Der- 
vorgilla,  in  which  John  Duns  Scotus  took  on  him  the  habit, 
who  died  in  1308  at  Cologn.  In  the  church  Robert  Bruce, 
Earl  of  Carrick,  killed  Red  Robert  Cuming  4  before  the  high 
altar  in  1305,  and  James  Lindsey  and  Roger  Kilpatrick 
murdered  Sir  Robert  Cuming  in  the  sacristy,  and  were  ex- 
communicated by  [Pope]  John  the  twenty-second  in  Avignon. 

1  It  was  in  1750  Dr.  Pococke  previously  visited  Dumfries,  see  p.  7. 

2  Criffel.      Burns  refers  to  this  mountain  at  the  mouth    of  the  Nith  in  his 
address  to  '  The  Dumfries  Volunteers' — 

'  The  Nith  shall  run  to  Corsincon, 
And  Criffel  sink  in  Solway.' 

3  Glencaple,  an  old  harbour   and  village  five   miles  below  Dumfries.      The 
Old  Quay  is  still  the  common  name  for  it. 

4  Red  John  Comyn  of  Badenoch,  see  p.  7. 


DUMFRIES,  NITHSDALE. 


31 


We  were  now  in  Clydedale  l  and  the  country  of  the  Sel- 
govae.  I  came  on  near  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  not 
far  from  the  mouth  of  it,  where  Caerlavrock  Castle  stands, 
which  they  say  is  a  fine  fabric,  and  that  there  are  some 
good  carvings  in  it.  It  was  the  habitation  of  the  Maxwells, 
lords  of  the  country.  It  is  by  some  thought  to  be  the 
Carbantorigum  of  Ptolemy,  and  was  esteemed  a  strong  place 
in  the  time  of  Edward  the  First.  But  Uxellum  is  rather 
thought  by  some  to  be  Caerlavrock,  and  that  Carbantorigum 
was  at  Bardanna  or  Kier.  Caerlaverock  by  the  new  map  is 
about  the  situation  of  Uxellum,  which  must  determine  it. 
Corda  of  Ptolemy  is  conjectured  to  have  been  near  Lough 
Cure  at  the  rise  of  the  Nyth,  the  Novius  about  Castle 
Cunnock  or  Cummock.  We  came  along  by  the  seaside  to 
Stank,  near  Comlongon,  the  seat  of  Lord  Stormont,  who  is 
now  Ambassador  at  Warsaw. — I  am,  etc. 
1  Should  be  Nithsdale. 


In  a  note  to  one  of  his  Irish  letters  Dr.  Pococke  explains  some  Gothic 
architectural  terms  which  he  purposed  using  in  the  following  letters,  and  gives 
six  illustrations : — 


1.  The  trefle  arch,  from  the  trefoil,  of  which  it  is  an  imitation. 

2.  The  double  trefle  arch. 

3.  The  trefoil  window. 

4.  The  round  or  rounded  cross. 

5.  The  cave  arch,  being  flatter,  as  such  natural  arches  have  been  seen  in  caves. 

6.  The  bough  arch. 


32  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

LETTER  V. 

i  PENRITH,  May  the  gth,-  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  7th  I  went  to  Ruthvel  [Ruth well] 
Church  to  see  an  extraordinary  square  obelisk,  broken  in 
two,  which  is  engraved  in  Gordon,3  to  which  I  refer  for 
an  account  of  it,  on  which  there  seems  to  have  been  a  cross. 
It  is  12£  ft.  long,  1  ft.  10  ins.  at  bottom,  and  a  foot  at  top  one 
way,  two  feet  at  bottom,  and  one  foot  three  inches  at  top 
another  way,  and  was  put  in  a  round  base  which  is  in  the 
church.  Here,  also,  is  the  monument4  of  Patrick  Walker,  a 
nonjuring  clergyman  who  lived  at  Oxford,  and  died  in  Lord 
Stormonfs  family,  who  erected  this  monument  to  him.  From 
about  this  place  to  the  north,  as  far  as  to  the  wall5  about 
seven  miles  north-east  of  Brampton,  and  for  about  half-a-mile 
in  breadth,  is  a  vein  of  limestone.  Some  is  blewish,  with  shells 
in  it,  others  reddish,  with  pieces  of  blew  mixed  in  it,  and  some 
with  coral  in  it,  both  of  the  large  and  small  kinds.  They 
make  kilns  with  sods  where  they  want  to  improve,  draw  the 
limestone  to  them,  and  burn  it  with  furse.  They  have  come 
into  this  improvement  about  a  dozen  years,  whicli  will  greatly 

1  This  letter  in  the  MS.  is  dated  from  Perth.    Dr.  Pococke  invariably  contracts 
Penrith — sometimes  Pen'th — hence  doubtless  the  error.     See  note,  p.  19. 

2  Although  this  letter  is  dated  a  day  earlier  than  the  preceding  one,  there  is  no 
reason  to  suppose  an  error.     The  order  in  tour  and  narrative  is  correct.     Dr. 
Pococke  appears  to  have  slept  in  Penrith  on  the  night  of  the  8th,  and  to  have 
passed  through  Orton  on  the  loth  (see  Itinerary  at  the  end  of  the  Tour).     Pro- 
bably Letter  IV.  was  not  finished  ;  hence  it  was  delayed  a  day.      The  Bishop 
generally  dated  and  located  the  letters  the  day  they  were  forwarded. 

3  Gordon's  Itin.,   pp.    160,    161,  and  pi.   57,  58;    Pen.  Scot.  Tours,    1772, 
Pt.  i.  p.  96;  Trans.  Soc.  Ant.  Scot.,  vol.  iv.  p.  313,  by  Rev.  Henry  Duncan, 
D.D.;  The  Ruthwell  Cross,  by  Prof.  Geo.  Stephens,  F.S.A.,   1866;  Scot,  in 
Early  Christian  Times,  by  Jos.  Anderson,  LL.D.,  vol.  ii.  pp.  233-246,  1881; 
The  Ruthivell  Cross,  1885,  by  Rev.  James  M'Farlan,  Ruthwell  Parish  Church. 

4  A  small  oval  brass  plate,  inserted  into  a  large  flat  tombstone.     The  inscrip- 
tion is  very  much  worn,  a  part  being  now  illegible.       '  Hie  conditur  quod 
mortale  fuit  Reverendi  Viri  Patricii   Walker,  Artium   Magister.  .   .  .  Deinde 
.   .  .  per  spatium  viginti  trium  annorum  apud  nobilem  virum  Davidem  Vice- 
comtem  Stormont  cujus  sacris  Domesticis  praefuit.     Commemoratus  est.     Ob. 
xxvin.  Mar.  MDCCXXVII  Eta.  LXXIV.' 

5  Hadrian's  Wall,  north  of  Brampton,  described  by  the  Rev.  C.  Bruce  in  The 
Roman  Wall,  p.  261,  seq. ;  cf.  also  p.  328. 


RUTHWELL,  HODDAM. 


33 


tend  to  alter  the  face  of  the  whole  country.      There  is  also 
great  plenty  of  marie  in  many  parts,  especially  in  the  bogs. 

I  went  on  three  miles  to  the  north-east  into  Anandale, 
and  came  to  the  fine  castle  of  Hodam1  on  the  Anan, 
from  which  there  is  a  hanging  ground  to  this  river  covered 
with  wood,  and  it  is  a  very  beautiful  country.  I  had  a  view 


A  Fragment  at  Hoddam  Castle.2 

up  the  Anan  of  Melk  Castle,3  very  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  hill  in  the  vale.  Here  I  saw  an  altar  found  at  the 
Roman  Camp,  called  The  Lawn,4  at  Midleby,  which  camp 
I  saw  in  1747.  There  is  a  road  from  that  camp  to  Carlisle, 
and  also  to  another,  which  I  saw  at  a  mile  distance  under 

1  Hoddam  Castle. 

2  This  sculpture  is  preserved  in  the  Soc.   of  Ant.   Mus.,   Edinburgh.      In 
the  left  corner  is  the  tip  of  a  wing,  and  although  Dr.  Pococke  calls  it  '  a  frag- 
ment of  a  winged  figure '  (p.  34),  he  has  not  shown  the  wing  in  the  drawing. 

3  Castlemilk. 

4  This  is  a  curious  error.     The  Roman  camp  mentioned  is  situated  within  and 
upon  the  marches  of  the  farm  of  Land,  Middlebie — pronounced  in  the  broad 
dialect  of  Annandale,  the  Ldn  (a  being  sounded  as  in  Lawn),  and  has  no  relation 
to  a  well-kept  greensward.    The  Bishop  visited  this  place  in  1750,  not  in  1747. 
See  p.  6. 

C 


34  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Burnswork,  and  it  goes  on  to  Moffet.  Here  is  an  altar  with 
an  inscription  on  it,  which  has  not  been  published,  and  may  be 
seen  on  the  other  side.1  Here  is  also  a  relief,  which  seems  to 
be  the  drapery  of  a  figure ;  and  there  is  a  fragment  of  a  winged 
figure  in  relief,  one  foot  of  which  is  on  a  globe  with  a  cross 
on  it.  It  is  thought  to  represent  Fortune  by  a  wheel.  Here 
is  also  a  stone  exactly  in  the  shape  of  an  egg,  found  in  the 
same  place,  18  long  and  11  broad,  and  very  smoothly  wrought. 

The  drawing  of  the  former  is  here  inserted.  From  this 
place  I  went  up  to  a  tower  on  a  hill  called  Repentance. 
It  was  built  by  a  Maxwel  who  had  committed  great  ravages 
against  Queen  Mary,  but  afterwards  became  a  papist,  and  built 
this  for  a  beacon,  and  put  up  in  Saxon  characters  over  the 
door — Repentance?  It  commands  a  very  fine  view  of  the 
country  and  bay.  I  went  down  to  the  ruined  church  of  Hod- 
dam,  where  there  are  some  pieces  of  an  imperfect  Latin  inscrip- 
tion, which  is  so  much  defaced  that  I  could  make  nothing  of  it. 

We  ascended  the  hill  and  came  over  the  heath  three  miles  to 
Anan,  a  small  poor  town,  very  pleasantly  situated  on  -  the 
hanging  ground  over  the  Anan,  and  commanding  a  view  of 
the  sea.  It  is  thought  by  some  to  be  the  Trimontium  of 
Ptolemy,  and  here  it  is  placed  in  the  new  map.  As  they 
have  great  plenty  of  a  soft  red  freestone  they  use  it  for  door 
frames,  and  window  frames  to  their  thatched  cabins,  and  make 
arched  rustic  door  frames  of  it  for  their  barns.  But  the  most 
beautifull  situation  is  the  site  of  the  house  of  Robert  Bruce, 

1  The  inscription  is  not  in  the  MS.     The  Bishop's  amanuensis  probably  lert 
it  for  him  to  write,  and  thus  it  has  been  lost. 

2  If  this  tradition  is  rather  apocryphal,  it  has  the  merit  of  being  new.     That 
it  was  a  Maxwell  that  erected  the  Tower  is  borne  out  by  Pennant,  who  says : 
'  It  was  built  by  a  Lord  Harries,  as  a  sort  of  atonement  for  putting  to  death  some 
prisoners  whom  he  had  made  under  a  promise  of  quarter.' — Pennant's  Scot.,  vol.  ii. 
p.   106.     Another  story  is,   '  A  chieftain  from  the  northern  side,  having  made  a 
successful  inroad  into  the  English  border,  was  crossing  the  Solway  on  his  return, 
laden  with  booty,  when  a  sudden  storm  arose.     In  order  to  lighten  his  labouring 
vessel  he  threw  his  prisoners  overboard  in  preference  to  the  cattle  he  had  stolen. 
The  danger  past,  he  was  smitten  with  remorse.     In  order  to  make  such  amends 
as  he  could,  he  built  a  beacon  tower  which  overlooks  the  Solway,  and  to  this  day 
is  called  the  Tower  of  Repentance.     Tradition  avers  that  the  penitent  himself 
carried  all  the  stones  used  in  its  erection  to  the  top  of  the  hill. ' — Bruce 's  Roman 
Wall,  p.  278.       For  plan  and  view  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castellated  Archi- 
tecture of  Scotland,  1887,  vol.  ii.  p.  60. 


TOWER  OF  REPENTANCE,  ANNAN.  35 

grandfather  to  Robert  Bruce,  king  of  Scotland.  It  is  on  an 
eminence  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  both  up  and 
down.  It  was  an  oblong  square,  defended  by  a  deep  fossee  to 
the  south,  and  by  a  double  fossee  to  the  north,  on  which  side  is 
the  keep.  The  garden  they  say  extended  to  the  east,  and  is 
now  a  very  rich  piece  of  ground.  On  a  stone  taken  from  the 
old  building  is  the  following  inscription,  which  I  copied.1 


afscnyu 


Q  Boo 

They  mention  a  stone  '2  set  up  in  memory  of  a  battle  with  the 
English,  probably  that  which  was  fought  near  this  place  in  the 
time  of  Edward  the  Sixth.  They  have  a  very  fine  marl  near 
this  town.  The  new  map  makes  the  wall  to  come  on  to  Ituna 
/Estuarium  about  this  place,  so  that  the  wall  seems  to  have 
been  carried  on  both  sides  ;  and  they  say  there  are  marks  of  a 
wall  which  was  built  from  this  place  to  the  great  wall.  They 
have  here  a  great  salmon-fishery.  I  was  told  that  their  flounders 
are  remarkably  good.  —  I  am,  etc. 

1  This  inscription  has  been  variously  transcribed.     '  Robert  de  Brus  Counte 
de  Carrick  et  senteur  du  val  de  Annand,  1300.'  —  Pennant's  $cot.t  vol.  ii.  ,p.  96. 
'Robert  De  Brus   Counte  De  Carrick  et  Seniour  De  Val  De  Annand,  .1300. 
New  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  iv.  p.  525.     Bruce  thus  designates  himself  in  a  letter  of  date 
1304,   '  Robert  de  Bruys  Seignour  du  Val  de  Anaunt.'  —  Raimes's  Historical 
Papers  and  Letters  from  Northern  Registers,  p.  163. 

2  Probably  the  Clochmaben.     '  On  the  farm  of  Old  Gretna  there  is  a  boulder- 
stone,  8  or  9  feet  in  height,  and  about  20  feet  in  breadth,  called  the  Clochmaben 
or  Lochmaben  Stone,  at  which  the  Scottish  warriors  generally  rendezvoused 
before  they  entered  England  by  the  Roman  road  at  Plomp.'  —  Trans.  Dumf.  and 
Gal.  Antiq.   Soc.,  1865-66,  p.  48,  Article,   'The  Debateable  Land,'  by  T.  J. 
Carlyle. 


36  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LETTER  VI. 

SHAP  IN  WESTMORELAND,  May  loth,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — I  went  on  six  miles  to  Gretna  Green  where 
there  is  a  very  antient  small  Saxon  Church.  On  the  8th  we 
came  over  the  Sarke  into  England  and  crossed  the  Esk  with  a 
guide ;  it  being  dangerous  after  high  tydes,  which  bring  in  the 
sand,  and  make  it  very  difficult  to  pass  without  a  guide,  and 
so  they  send  one  at  all  times  with  strangers.  .  .  . 

I  passed  old  Penrith  the  Voreda  of  the  Itinerary.  This  is 
the  third  time  I  have  seen  Penrith.  They  make  use  of  a 
covering  of  their  houses  very  much  in  this  country  which  is  of 
the  red  thin  freestone.  They  have  also  the  Workington  slate, 
which  are  a  large  green  slate.  The  wheels  and  Axel  trees  of 
their  carts  turn  together,  and  the  wheel  consists  of  three  pieces 
of  wood  ;  a  small  segment  of  a  circle  being  cutt  out  of  the  two 
side  pieces  and  a  little  from  the  middle  piece. 

The  whole  country  from  Penrith  to  Carlisle  was  formerly  the 
forrest  of  Engelwood. 

The  Duke  of  Portland  made  a  present  to  some  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  this  place  for  taking  eighty  of  the  Rebels,  which  they 
laid  out  on  Branches  from  the  Church,  on  which  there  is  an 
historical  inscription.  .  .  .  l 

1  Bishop  Pococke  crossed  the  river  Sark  into  England  on  the  8th  May,  and 
made  a  thirteen-days'  tour  in  the  northern  counties,  visiting  the  following 
places  :  Carlisle,  Penrith,  Brougham  Castle,  Lowther  Hall,  Abbey  of  Shap, 
Orton,  Pendragon  Castle,  Wharton  Hall,  Kirkby  Stephen,  Winton,  Brough, 
Bowes,  Richmond,  Easby  Abbey,  Appleton,  Darlington,  Staindrop,  Raby 
Castle,  Bishop  Auckland,  Stanhope,  Alstonmoor,  Haltwhistle,  Brampton, 
Haworth  Castle,  Lanercost  Abbey,  Beau  Castle,  Netherby,  Longtown.  He 
re-entered  Scotland  again,  crossing  the  river  Sark  on  the  2Oth  May,  having 
travelled  about  232  miles  and  written  seven  letters.  Vide  Add.  MSS.  14,256, 
British  Museum. 


GRETNA  GREEN,  ANNANDALE.  37 


LETTER  VII. 

MOFFET  IN  ANANDALE,  May  the  2Ot/i,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM,  —  On  the  20th  I  set  out  to  the  west,  and 
passed  the  Sark  into  Scotland.  On  the  English  side  of  the 
river  is  a  cross  on  which  is  this  inscription  — 

Qot> 


the  occasion  of  which  was,  a  Custom-House  officer  murdered  by 
some  persons  running  goods  who  were  acquitted.  We  passed 
through  Gretna  Green,  and  leaving  the  road  we  had  come  into 
England,  in  about  three  miles  further  we  came  to  Kirk  Patrick1 
Church,  where  there  is  a  rivulet,  and  in  two  miles  more  to 
Dykehead,  on  Kirklewater2  rivulet,  and  over  a  pleasant  glyn 
adorned  with  trees,  and  in  twelve  miles  from  Longtown  to  a 
small  town  Eglefekin,3  near  a  rivulet  called  Mene.4  Here 
there  is  a  linnen  manufacture  which  employs  the  people  in 
spinning.  About  two  miles  from  the  Lawn5  is  the  site  of  Old 
Middleby,  supposed  to  be  Blatum  Bulgrium,  as  the  camp  above, 
under  Burnswork  seems  to  be  the  ./Estiva  Castra  Exploratorum, 
both  which  I  saw  in  1747.6  In  two  miles  I  crossed  the 
Anan  near  the  pleasant  castle  of  Melk  now  destroyed,  and 
a  modern  house  is  built  on  a  beautiful  mount  over  the  Anan 
adorned  with  trees.  Here  I  saw  a  double  kind  of  a  boat,  like 
two  troughs  joined  thus  :  — 


each  of  which  would  hold  any  beast  to  be  ferried  over.     In  two 

1  Kirkpatrick-Fleming.  2  Kirtle  River. 

3  Ecclefechan.  4  Mein  Water. 

5  Lawn,  i.e.  Lan  or  Land  ;  see  note,  p.  33. 
(i  It  was  in  1750  that  Dr.  Pococke  visited  Middlebie,  p.  6. 


38  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

miles  more  I  came  to  Loughkerby1  on  a  morass,  which  probably 
was  a  lake.  Going  from  this  place,  I  saw  two  or  three  lakes 
to  the  southwest.  One  of  them  is  Loughaban,2  on  which  there 
is  a  ruined  castle3  on  a  peninsula.  We  passed  the  Anan  again, 
and  perceived  the  Roman  road  in  several  places. 

About  four  miles  before  I  came  to  Moffet  I  saw  a  small 
hill  which  seemed  to  have  been  worked  into  a  regular  shape,  so 
as  with  the  river  to  make  a  triangle,  and  there  is  a  single 
entrance  up  to  it  near  the  angle,  which  is  close  to  the  road. 
About  half  a  mile  further  is  such  another,  but  square  and  on  the 
river,  and  there  is  an  entrance  up  to  it  on  the  west  side,  near 
the  north-west  angle.  They  are  both  flat  at  top,  and  about 
thirty  feet  high,  as  I  conjectured  and  imagined  they  might  be 
the  Castra  ^Estiva  of  some  station  near.  But  the  common 
people  look  on  them  as  entirely  natural,  and  say  that  nothing 
is  found  about  them.  They  are  certainly  not  altogether  works 
of  art. 

We  came  in  between  the  mountains,  which  open  and  make 
a  wider  vale  towards  the  part  where  the  river  has  run  from  the 
north,  and  begins  to  run  east  and  west,  and  forms  a  pleasant 
romantick  amphitheatre  encompassed  with  high  mountains. 
Moffet  is  a  small  town  in  this  vale.  It  is  the  estate  of  the 
Marquis  of  Anandale,  who  is  lunatic,  and  Lord  Hopton  is  the 
curator,  who  is  setting  on  foot  a  manufacture  of  shalloons  and 
serges  here.  On  the  mountain  to  the  south-east  is  Loughwood, 
an  old  castle*  encompassed  with  morass, — the  seat  of  Sir 
Theodore  Johnston  in  the  time  of  James  the  Sixth,  who  lived 
in  this  place,  almost  inaccessible,  and  did  what  he  pleased. 
It  is  said  that  King  James  in  one  of  his  progresses,  as  he  went 
to  administer  justice,  sent  to  him,  but  he  refused  to  come,  on 
which  the  king  went  to  him,  granted  him  a  pardon,  and  created 
him  Lord  Johnston,  and  his  descendent  was  made  Marquis  of 
Anandale. — I  am,  etc. 

1  Lockerbie.  2  Lochmaben. 

3  King  Robert  the  Bruce's  Castle. 

4  The  old  Castle  or  Tower  of  Lochwood. 


LOCKERBIE,  LOCHMABEN,  MOFFAT.  39 


LETTJ:R  VIII. 

LEADHILLS  IN  CLYDESDALE,  May  2is/,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  21st  I  went  two  measured  miles  to 
the  old  well,  passing  near  a  British  round  fort  with  a  keep  in  it 
in  which  they  had  dug  to  find  treasure.  The  old  Spaw  was 
found  above  a  hundred  years  agoe  by  Bishop  Whiteford's 
daughter.1  It  comes  out  of  a  rock  over  a  rivulet2  that  runs 
down  the  rocks  in  a  deep  giyn  adorned  with  wood  in  a  very 
romantick  manner.  For  this  mineral  water,  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur,  I  refer  to  the  treatises3  writ  on  the  mineral 
waters  of  Scotland,  and  printed  at  Edinburgh.  There  are  two 
springs.  One  comes  out  of  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  is  the 
strongest  of  sulphur,  which  settles  on  the  rock.  This  is  carried 
to  Moffet  to  bathe  in,  and  may  be  drank.  But  they  commonly 
drink  the  other  which  comes  out  lower  on  the  other  side  of  the 
cave,  and  is  softer.  It  is  esteemed  particularly  good  in  all 
scorbutick  disorders,  both  to  bathe  and  drink,  and  is  particularly 
good  for  any  sores.  Dr.  -  —  has  built  a  long  room  and 
conveniencies  here  for  the  people  to  come  and  drink  the  waters 
on  the  spot. 

From  this  place  I  crossed  the  mountains  towards  the  road 
to  Edinburgh,  and  turning  up  a  rivulet4  to  the  north-west, 
which  runns  in  a  romantick  giyn,  we  came  at  the  head  of  it  to 
the  new  well  called  Hartfield  Spaw,5  found  out  about  seven 
years  agoe  by  Mr.  Williamson  the  Pythagorean,  who  eats 
nothing  that  causes  the  destruction  of  an  animal,  as  it  is  said, 
occasioned  by  his  compassion  for  the  game  he  saw  dying  when 
he  was  about  eighteen  years  old,  and  a  great  sportsman.  This 
spaw  is  on  the  Duke  of  Queensborouglis  estate,  who  has  made  a 
carriage  road  to  it.  It  is  an  alum  water,  and  good  for  many 

1  Miss  Rachel  Whiteford,  afterwards  Mrs.  James  Johnston,  is  credited  with 
having  discovered  this  Spa  in  1633. 

2  The  Well  Burn,  or  Birnock  Water ;  so  called  from  Birnock  Clooves,  the 
hill  whence  it  flows. 

3  These   two   treatises   are   probably   those   by  Dr.   Milligan   and   Professor 
Plummer,  in  the  Edinburgh  Medical  Essays,  1747. 

4  Auchencat,  or  Hartfell  Burn. 

5  Hartfell  Spa  was  discovered  in  1748.     A   monument  was  erected   to   the 
memory  of  John  Williamson  in  1775  ;  he  died  1769. 


40  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

inward  disorders.     The  well  is  arched  over  and  locked  up,  and 
the  water  is  brought  to  Moffet. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  rivulet,  lower  down,  are  copper 
mines.  The  ore  is  in  a  black  slate,  and  they  work  in  horri- 
/ontally.  They  belong  to  Mr.  Grampton,1  from  whom  they 
have  their  name.  On  the  height  over  this  stream  on  the  heath 
is  an  old  entrenchment  of  three  sides  forming  right  angles,  the 
precipice  being  to  the  south,  and  there  are  two  entrances  on  the 
north  side,  which  is  about  eighty  yards  long,  the  other 
two  sides  about  forty.  Coming  to  this  place  from  the  other 
well,  I  saw  a  Kern  made  of  stones  laid  round  a  spot  of  ground 
about  20  paces  in  diameter.2  We  came  to  the  road  to  Edin- 
burgh and  Glasgow  3  miles  from  Moffet,  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  called  Brayfoot  Ericstone.3  To  the  north  of  this  the 
Anan  rises  out  of  a  deep  hole  between  the  mountains,  called 
the  Marquis  of  Anandale^s  Tub.4  I  was  assured  that  there  is  no 
lake  there.  Ascending  the  hill  I  saw  over  the  bed  of  a  moun- 
tain torrent  a  British  semi-circular  fort,  with  treble  fossees  in 
some  parts  and  four  fossees  in  other  parts,  and  four  likewise 
extending  to  the  west  of  it  for  about  40  yards,  which  seem 
to  be  designed  to  defend  the  pass.  We  ascended  the  mountains,5 
which  are  beautiful  in  their  shape  and  covered  with  herbage 
and  heath.  In  four  miles  we  came  to  Clyde^s  Nop,  or  Nape  I 
suppose,  which  is  a  head  of  a  river  that  I  imagine  to  be  the 
last  that  runs  to  the  east,  and  so  may  be  said  to  be  the  Nape 
of  Clyde.  We  soon  came  to  the  Clyde  which  runs  from  the 
north  out  of  a  vale  in  which  there  are  two  single  hills.  It  forms 
several  little  pools,  and  rises  eight  miles  off'  from  Allanfoot,  I 
suppose  to  the  east,  for  it  is  said  that  Anan,  Clyde,  and  Tweede6 
rise  within  a  mile  of  each  other.  Opposite  to  Allanfoot,7 

1  The  estate  of  Granton.     Probably  the  proprietor  being  locally  styled  by  his 
estate,  the  polite  traveller  supplied  the  '  Mr.' 

2  A  doubtful  piece  of  antiquity  ;  more  likely  to  have  been  a  sheep-pen. 

3  Ericstane-brae  foot. 

4  The  '  Marquis  of  Annandale's  Beef-stand,'  or  'The  Deil's  Beef-Tub." 

5  The  Moffat  Hills,  also  called  the  Lowther  Hills. 

6  Described  well  in  the  old  lines  :  — 

'Annan,  Tweed,  an'  Clyde, 
A'  rise  out  o'  ae  hillside  ; 
Tweed  ran,  Annan  wan, 
Clyde  fell,  an'  brak  its  neck  o'er  Cora  Linn.' 

7  F.lvanfoot. 


MOFFAT,  LEADHILLS.  41 

that  is,  Elwin,  the  foot  of  Elwin,  the  river  running  straight, 
as  they  say  like  an  ell.  Opposite  to  this  is  a  pretty  place 
called  Newtown.  Here  the  Clyde  is  large.  We  crossed  it 
to  Allanfoot,  and  went  four  miles  by  very  bad  road,  mostly 
northward,  by  the  side  of  a  stream,  and  over  a  hill  to  Lead- 
hills,  which  is  a  town  of  thatched  houses  of  miners,  consisting 
of  between  three  and  four  hundred  houses,  and  about  fifteen 
hundred  souls,  situated  between  low  heathy  hills.  It  is 
reckoned  to  be  in  Clydesdale,  and  is  the  high  road  from 
Wigtown  and  Dumfries  to  Edinburgh.  The  former  road  joyns 
the  latter  near  Drumlandrig.  It  is  the  estate  of  Lord  Hopton, 
and  about  a  mile  to  the  south  the  Duke  of  QueensborouglVs 
estate  comes  in,  who  has  mines  on  them.  It  is  all  lead,  except 
a  small  quantity  of  copper  they  have  lately  met  with,  but  it 
did  not  hold.  They  are  worked  by  two  or  three  companies, 
and  some  Lord  Hopton  works  himself.  Off  the  company  he 
has  a  sixth  of  pure  lead.1  They  have  not  gone  deeper  than 
three  hundred  feet.  They  do  not  smelt  with  a  furnace,  but  in 
smelt  mills  on  common  hearths  blown  with  bellows.  They 
smelt  it  with  coal,  turf,  and  lime — a  horse  load  of  coal,  twelve 
stone,  two  loads  of  turf,  and  one  load  of  lime  of  eight  bushels. 
They  use  the  coal  of  Douglas  eight  miles  off.  But  for  their 
houses  they  burn  a  lighter  coal,  that  of  the  Sanchar  at  the  old 
family  castle  of  the  Duke  of  Queensborough.  They  bring 
their  lime  also  from  Douglas.  As  to  the  ores,  those  of  the 
different  mines  are  much  of  the  same  nature.  They  say  they 
are  more  easily  worked  than  the  Duke  of  Queensborough's. 
Besides  the  common  lead  ore,  they  have  what  they  call  a 
diamond  ore  in  oblong  square  plates,  which  shine  like  glass. 
Susannah  mine,  or  vein  as  they  call  it,  in  the  side  of  the  hill,  is 
a  very  large  rich  vein.  It  has  been  worked  several  years,  and 
goes  down  near  perpendicular.  They  have  followed  it  360  feet 
deep.  In  the  mines  they  meet  with  the  diamond  kind  in  large 
lumps,  the  pieces  cemented  together,  and  sometimes  incrusted 
over  with  a  brown  coat.  Sometimes  they  find  other  ore 
incrusted  with  a  mixture  of  spar  and  mundik.  They  have  also 
ore  which  shoots  like  crystal  in  small  threads,  of  a  light  grey 
colour  and  a  deeper  grey,  and  they  have  a  white  ore  which  is 

1  'The   Earl  of  Hopetoun  receives  the  sixth  bar  for  rent.' — Old  Stat.  Ac., 
vol.  iv.  p.  512. 


42  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

rare.  They  are  commonly  found  in  hollow  parts  of  the  rock 
which  is  close  to  the  vein.  They  find  also  a  flat  spar,  not  very 
white,  and  what  they  call  chrystal  pillar,  about  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  thick,  not  formed  like  chrystal,  but  in  irregular  round 
figures,  and  not  smooth.  I  have  a  little  piece  of  the  chrystal 
found  in  the  middle  of  a  rock.  They  met  with  a  vein  of  copper 
which  seemed  to  be  rich,  but  it  soon  failed,  and  they  have  not 
tried  it.  The  lead  is  carried  to  Leith,  the  port  of  Edinburgh, 
and  shipped  oft'  for  Holland,  where,  it  is  said,  they  get  out  the 
small  quantity  of  silver  that  is  in  it,  and  use  much  of  it  in 
making  white  and  red  lead.  They  carry  a  load  of  five  pigs, 
500  wt.,  with  a  horse  and  carr  for  five  shillings,  being  thirty- 
two  miles  or  two  days'1  journey.  The  Scotch  company  have  a 
great  part  of  these  mines.  A  gentleman  of  learning  of  the 
name  of  Sterling,1  who  has  travelled  in  Italy,  and  is  a  man  of 
great  politeness,  has  the  care  of  their  affairs.  They  have  a 
very  handsome  house,  and  lie  has  improved  the  garden  in  lawn 
and  plantations  of  trees,  so  as  to  hide  the  thatched  cabins 
below,  and  to  make  it  very  pretty  in  itself.  The  larch  grows 
very  well  here,  but  no  sort  of  fruit  ripens  except  strawberries, 
not  so  much  as  a  gooseberry.2  Tho"1  in  July  and  August  they 
have  plenty  of  common  garden  stuff'.  They  are  subject  to  colic  if 
they  work  where  the  air  is  not  perfectly  good.  The  remedy  is 
purgatives  and  emetics,  but  sometimes  it  proves  fatal. — I  am,  etc. 

1  'Arch.  Stirling  of  Garden,  Esq.,  agent  for  the  Scotch  Mine  Company,  at  Lead- 
hills,  a  worthy  and  well-informed  gentleman.' — Old  Stat.  Ac,,  vol.  xxi.  p.  97. 

2  '  Every  sort  of  vegetable  is  with  difficulty  raised,  and  seldom  comes  to  per- 
fection.'— Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  xxi.  p.  98.     This  statement  by  the  Rev.  William 
Peterkin,  Minister  of  Ecclesmachan,  written  about  1799,  confirms  Dr.  Pococke's 
observations,   and  the  Doctor's   informant  would  be  the  Mr.   Stirling  referred 
to.     A  century  of  soil  amelioration  seems  to  have  wrought  a  marvellous  change, 
and  the  climate  may  have  improved,  as  appears  from  the  following  : — '  Leadhills. 
By  successful  cultivation  on  the  part  of  the  miners,  some  300  acres  of  land  have 
been   reclaimed,   which   afford   potatoes   and   crops  of  hay.     This  green,  sur- 
rounding the  village,  forms  a  pleasant  feature  to  this  healthy  district.     Though 
1400  feet  above  sea-level,  the  villagers  had  a  grand  display  of  lovely  flowers, 
choice  fruits,  and  vegetables   at   their   flower-show.  .  .  .  The   quality   of  the 
exhibits  was  very  good,  the  judges  making  special  mention  of  the  pansies  and 
marigolds.     The  vegetables  were  slightly  inferior  to  those  of  last  year,  but  the 
long  and  round  potatoes  were  very  good.     The  fruits  were  above  the  average, 
and  much  notice  was  taken  of  the  size  and  quality  of  the  black  currants.'— 
Hamilton  Advertiser,  Sept.    12,  1885.     At  the  show  there  were  ten  entries  of 
gooseberries. 


LEADHILLS,  DOUGLAS,  ROBERTON.  43 


LKTTEH  IX. 

LANERK,  May  22a,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  22d  I  set  out  and  travelled  three 
miles  to  Glangoner  river  in  the  Edinburgh  road,  from  which 
another  goes  up  the  hills  to  the  north-west  to  Douglas  mill 
and  Douglas  town,  which  is  the  way  to  Glasgow.  At  the 
latter  the  Duke  of  Douglas l  had  a  castle,  where  he  resided,  that 
was  lately  burnt,  and  he  is  building  a  house  there.  They  say 
gold  dust2  was  formerly  found  in  Glangoner  river.  Another 
road  goes  by  Crawfordjohn,  the  shortest  way  to  Lanerk,  but 
over  the  moors.  Soon  after  we  came  to  the  Clyde.  This  road 
is  joyned  by  the  great  Dumfries  Road  to  Glasgow,  and  the 
Edinburgh  Road  a  little  further  crosses  the  Clyde  from  this 
road,  and  a  little  further  the  Glasgow  Road  goes  to  the  south- 
west of  this  road,  which  is  the  way  we  took  to  Lanerk.  We 
passed  through  a  British  fort3  with  a  keep  on  the  Clyde,  and  by 
Robertstown4  under  a  fine  hill  called  Duncavan,5  and  saw  a  bridge 

O 

called  Cleyden  Bridge,6  over  which  the  road  to  Edinburgh  goes 
when  the  water  is  high.  We  passed  near  Littlegill,6  where 
there  is  such  another  old  fort,  and  came  to  the  limestone 
quarries  in  a  bottom.  The  stone  is  in  patches,  and  they  burn 
it  on  the  spot.  There  is  more  about  two  miles  to  the  south, 
and  at  Douglas.  We  crossed  over  to  another  valley  under 
Kentick  Hill,7  which  is  high,  and  going  over  a  foot  of  it,8  came 

1  The  Dukedom  became  extinct  in  1761.     The  estates  are  now  held  by  the 
Earl  of  Home,  created  Baron  Douglas  in  1875. 

2  '  Queen  Elizabeth  .  .   .   sent  down  a  German  to  gather  gold  dust   in  the 
waters  of  Elvan  and  Glengonar.' — Old  Stat.  Ac,,  vol.  iv.  p.  515.     Mr.  Noble 
estimates  that  not  less  than  .£500,000  has  been  extracted  from  Crawford  gold 
district  ( Ufnvard  Lanarkshire,  1864,  vol.  iii.  p.  195  ;  see  also  vol.  i.  pp.  5°  seq.). 
The  marriage  ring  of  Sir  Edward  Colebrooke's  lady  was  made  of  Glengoner 
gold. 

3  On  farm  of  Nether  Abington.     See   Upward  Lanarkshire,  vol.  i.   p.   27  ; 
also  Plate  ill.  fig.  5. 

4  Roberton.  5  Dungavel  Hill,  1675  ft. 

6  Clydes   Bridge   still    stands.      Near  it  is  the  farm-house  of  Moat,    which 
was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Baillies  of  Littlegill. 

7  Tinto,  locally  Tintock,  2335  ft. 

8  The  pass  at  Howgate  mouth,  part  of  the  Tinto  range. 


44  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

to  a  valley  in  which  there  runns  a  rivulet1  that  passes  through 
Carmichael,  the  seat  of  Lord  Hindeford,2  with  a  church  and 
park  adjoyning  that  extends  up  the  western  hill,  having  Kentic 
to  the  east.  It  is  a  good  house,  close  to  another  which  I  was 
told  was  an  old  castle.  It  is  a  pretty  thing  in  itself,  in  a  situa- 
tion fixed  on  for  the  sake  of  shelter,  but  within  a  mile  of  a 
most  beautiful  country  on  the  Clyde,  to  which  we  crossed  over 
the  hill3  and  then  over  the  Clyde  itself  to  Lanerk,  passing  by  a 
quarry4  of  good  stone  with  a  bed  of  fine  flaggs  in  it. 

Lanerk  is  a  small  town  prettily  situated.  This  country  is 
charmingly  fine  in  a  most  peculiar  manner,  consisting  chiefly  of 
high  ground  over  the  river,  and  rising  ground  in  common 
fields  like  Hampshire,  and  seats  finely  improved.  I  observed 
between  the  little  hills  small  bogs  from  an  acre  to  three  or  four 
acres,  which  in  winter  are  ponds,5  and  if  cleansed  for  manure 
might  produce  great  plenty  of  fish.  Lanerk  is  tolerably  well 
built,  though  most  of  the  houses  are  thatched,  and  the  ascent  to 
the  upper  rooms  is  mostly  on  the  outside.  They  have  a  manu- 
facture of  Scotch  carpets.  This  is  a  royal  borough,  and  belongs 
to  the  king.  To  the  south  of  the  town  is  the  castle  hill,  like  a 
Celtic  tumulus  towards  the  river.  From  it  a  fossee  extends  to 
the  north,  as  will  be  mentioned  below.  The  site  of  the  castle 
is  turned  into  a  bowling-green.6  It  was  a  castle  of  the  Kings 
of  Scotland,  and  they  have  a  tradition  that  King  David  passed 
some  time  here.  A  quarter  of  mile  to  the  east  of  the  town  is 
a  ruined  church.7  The  east  part  is  entirely  down.  The  body 
only  consists  of  one  row  of  pillars  supporting  six  arches.  Two 
of  the  pillars  are  octagons.  It  is  all  Gothick,  and  the  windows 
consist  of  one  narrow  arch.  This  might  be  the  church8  of  the 
Monastery  of  Conventuals  founded  by  Robert  Bruce,  King  of 

1  Carmichael  Burn,  which  falls  into  Clyde  at  Pretts-mill. 

-  John,  third  Earl  of  Hyndford.     The  earldom  became  extinct  in  1817.     The 
estate  is  now  held  by  Sir  Windham  Carmichael  Anstruther,  Bart. 

3  Carmichael  Hill.         4  Bride's  Close  Quarry.    It  now  only  yields  road  metal. 

5  One  of  the  bogs  is  probably  now  Lanark  Loch,  the  others  have  disappeared 
through  agricultural  improvements. 

6  Still  used  as  a  bowling-green. 

7  The   church   of  St.   Kentigern   in   churchyard  ;    the  remains  are  in  good 
preservation. 

8  The  monastery  founded  by  Bruce  was  in  the  ivest  of  the  town  ;  the  site  of 
which  was  in  the  yard  of  the  Clydesdale  Hotel. 


CARMICHAEL,  LANARK,  CARSTAIRS.  45 

Scotland  in  1314.  There  was  an  hospital  in  the  town  called 
St.  Leonard. 

I  rid  four  measured  miles  to  Carstairs,1  a  large  village.  To 
the  east  of  the  village,  near  the  church,  are  remains  of  the 
ancient  town  supposed  to  be  Colania.  It  is  near  a  rivulet, 
which  is  to  the  east  of  it,  and  was  about  a  hundred  yards 
broad  from  east  to  west,  and  two  hundred  long,  the  parsonage 
house  being  very  near  the  north  wall.  There  is  a  large  head 
from  the  north  wall  extending  to  the  east  as  to  keep  up  the 
water  of  the  rivulet  for  the  use  of  the  town.  They  have  found 
pieces  of  iron,  one  like  a  pick-axe,  another  like  a  broad  knife, 
and  some  little  thin  pieces  of  lead,  a  stone  trough,  a  stone  like  a 
Console  with  two  ornaments  in  front  like  a  small  pillar  and 
base  crowned  with  a  flozver  de  Us,  and  another  which  appeared 
like  a  Gothick  ornament  of  a  head,  but  they  said  it  was  taken 
out  of  the  old  town,  and  as  the  cap  was  remarkable,  a  drawing2 
was  taken  of  it.  In  the  churchyard  is  a  most  extraordinary 
Gothick  capital,  the  bottom  of  which  is  put  upwards,  and 
serves  for  a  dial,  and  is  23  inches  in  diameter,  probably  the  size 
of  the  pillar.  It  is  in  the  bell  shape,  and  is  covered  with  eight 
pilasters,  as  probably  the  pillar  was,  each  consisting  of  five 
sides.  That  in  the  middle  is  three  inches  broad,  the  other  two 
four.  About  a  mile  nearer  Lanerk  at  a  village3  I  saw  signs  of 
what  I  took  to  be  large  irregular  entrenchments.4 

The  town  of  Lanerk  seems  anciently  to  have  extended 
towards  the  Castle,  for  there  is  a  deep  fossee  to  the  east  which 
seems  to  be  natural,  and  carries  off  the  water  from  the  town, 

1  '  The  [Roman]  Iter  next  bends  round  the  remarkable  turn  here  taken  by  the 
Clyde,  and  enters  the  important  Roman  Station  of  Castledykes,  or  Carstairs.    The 
progress  of  modern  improvement  has  in  a  great  measure  destroyed  its  ramparts  : 
a  small  portion  is,  however,  preserved  on  the  side  of  the  avenue  at  the  back  of  the 
modern  mansion-house.     Fortunately  it  was  surveyed  by  General  Roy  in  1753, 
and  a  plan  of  it  preserved  in  Plate  xxvn.  of  his  great  work.     From  this  we  learn 
that  it  consisted  of  an  area  of  about  180  yards  square,  defended  by  a  deep  ditch 
and  formidable  rampart.     The  remains  of  a  Roman  bath  were  here  discovered, 
and  many  articles  of  their  manufacture  have  been  dug  up,  such  as  pots,  dishes, 
instruments  of  war  or  sacrifice,  a  nether  millstone,  and  coins,  chiefly  those  of 
Aurelius,  Antoninus,  and  Trajan.' — Upward  Lanarkshire,  vol.  i.  p.  16.     Castle- 
dykes  was  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  church  and  village  of  Carstairs.     Ibid., 
vol.  ii.  p.  447.     Lanark  is  generally  understood  to  be  Colonia. 

2  The  drawing  referred  to  does  not  appear  to  have  been  preserved. 

3  Ravenstruther.  4  On  the  farm  of  Corbiehall. 


46  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

and  on  the  other  side  are  remains  of  a  rampart,  very  much  like 
the  Roman  works,  and  might  run  down  on  the  west  side  of  the 
present  hill  called  the  Castle.  There  is  a  beautifull  glyn 
behind  the  Castle,  and  beyond  that,  a  little  to  the  south,  is  the 
Clyde,  which  to  the  east,  runs  between  high,  beautifull  rocks 
adorned  with  wood.  Above  that  the  river  runs  on  rocks,  with 
several  little  falls1  but  higher  up  between  hills  covered  with 
wood  and  forms  several  beautiful  cascades.  Coming  towards 
Lord  President  Dundasses'2  estate  and  house,  called  Bonny  town, 
the  south  side  appears  in  two  hills — one  like  a  long  tumulus, 
with  a  rivulet  to  the  west  falling  down  in  several  sheets.  The 
other  is  beautifully  covered  with  wood,  on  which  the  house 
stands,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.3  As  one  approaches  there 
seems  to  be  a  third  hill  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  with  a 
summer-house4  on  it,  but  as  you  come  nearer  you  are  most 
agreeably  surprised  in  seeing  a  most  extraordinary  cataract5  of 
the  whole  river,  and  to  find  that  this  hill  is  on  the  north  side 
of  it,  for  here  the  river  runs  down  the  rocks  from  the  south 
and  turns  immediately  to  the  west.  The  high  rocks  on  each 
side  are  most  beautifully  adorned  with  trees,  being  alto- 
gether the  finest  cascade  I  ever  saw.  It  first  falls  about  five 
feet  down,  and  about  fifteen  feet  wide.  It  then  widens  on  both 
sides,  and  runs  down  fifty,  and  for  ten  feet  before  the  next  fall 
the  water  forms  a  froth  by  the  breaking  on  the  rocks,  it  then 
falls  about  twelve  feet,  and  there  are  two  streams  divided  by 
the  rocks  on  the  west  side.  After  running  about  fifty  feet  it 
falls  first  about  ten  feet  on  a  shelf,  and  then  about  twenty  in 
a  sheet  a  little  broken  by  the  rocks,  forms  a  large  basin,  and 
turns  to  the  west.  From  the  summer-house  there  is  a  ride  on 
the  high  cliffs  over  the  river  out  of  which  trees  grow,  and  there 
is  a  wood  to  the  left  of  the  river,  running  a  little  above  the  fall 
from  east  to  west,  and  several  small  cascades  are  seen  falling 
down  the  rocks.  At  last  a  most  grand  broad  cataract 6  presents 

1  Dundaff  Linn. 

-  The  Lord  President  was  never  laird  of  Bonnington.  This  curious  error 
may  have  arisen  from  Sir  John  Carmichael  Ross  of  Bonnington  having  married 
the  daughter  of  Dundas  of  Arniston. 

3  The  Corehouse  side  of  the  river  Clyde. 

4  Built  by  Sir  James  Carmichael  of  Bonnington  in  1708. 

5  Corra  Linn.  6  Bonnington  Fall. 


LANARK,  FALLS  OF  CLYDE,  HAMILTON.       47 

to  view,  a  little  broken  by  a  turn  in  the  rock  on  the  north  side. 
It  falls,  I  believe,  for  about  twenty  feet,  in  a  white  froth. 
From  this  the  ride  is  to  the  north,  and  north-east,  round  the 
whole  improved  estate  on  that  side,  which  is  divided  into 
several  large  fields,  mostly  by  six  rows  of  firr  trees,  which  have 
a  most  beautifull  effect  in  the  prospect. 

When  I  came  home  and  was  at  dinner,  the  Magistrates  of 
the  town  sent  to  know  when  they  might  wait  on  me.  The  two 
Bailies  and  the  town- clerk  came  ;  I  had  wine  ready  for  them,  and 
then  they  would  entertain  me.  They  told  me  of  their  inten- 
tion to  present  me  with  the  freedom  of  the  town.  The  Bailey 
held  up  the  parchment  in  his  right  hand,  and  swore  me  to 
allegiance  to  the  King  and  to  preserve  and  defend  the  privi- 
ledges  of  the  Borough.1 

This  is  the  county  town  of  Lanerkshire  in  which  the  city  of 
Glasgow  is  situated,  having  been  anciently  a  town  of  consider- 
able trade  when  Glasgow  was  not  a  place  of  great  traffick. 
This  town  with  Pebles,  Selkirk,  and  Linlithgow,  send  a  Mem- 
ber to  Parliament. 

I  set  out,  and  in  three  miles  forded  the  Clyde,  and  came 
over  the  high  ground,  eight  miles  in  the  whole,  to  Chatelherault, 
originally  built  by  the  late  Duke  of  Hamilton's  father  for  a 
doghouse.  It  is  on  an  eminence  over  the  river.  The  building 
is  beautifull,  consisting  of  two  large  pavilions,  with  a  handsome 
room  in  each,  and  a  small  pavilion  at  each  end,  the  building 
between  being  at  first  designed  for  the  dogs.  Opposite  to  it  are 
the  remains  of  the  old  family  castle2  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
which  runs  between  high  cliffs  most  beautifully  covered  with 
wood  and  extends  for  some  way.  In  this  wood  on  the  other 
side  is  a  water  that  forms  open  petrifications  like  fine  rock 
work.  Near  a  mile  below  this,  at  the  end  of  the  town,  is 
Hamilton  House,  which  is  an  Half  H-  There  are  grand 
appartments  in  it,  as  well  as  a  fine  gallery  above  100  feet  long 
and  about  20  broad,  and  there  are  many  good  pictures  in  the 

1  Mr.    William   Annan,    Town   Clerk,    Lanark,    has    searched    the    Burgh 
records  for  this  presentation  without  result.     The  Rolls  of  Burgesses  extant  only 
date  from  1776.     The   gentlemen  who   waited  on   the    Bishop  were   probably 
Bailies  Robert  Bell  and   Christopher  Bannatyne,  and  William   Wilson,  Town 
Clerk.     See  note  5,  p.  3. 

2  Cadzow  Castle. 


48  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

house.1  At  one  end  of  it  is  the  Parish  Church  in  ruins,  which 
is  the  burial  place  of  the  family.2  The  late  Duke's  father  built 
a  very  handsome  church  3  on  the  hill,  in  this  shape — 


Vi 


Hamilton  is  a  well-built  town,  in  which  they  have  a  linnen 
manufactory.  The  Duke  built  good  walls,  and  has  all  kind  of 
fruits  on  them  in  great  perfection. 

On  the  24th  I  set  out  for  Glasgow,  and  in  a  mile  crossed 
the  Clyde  on  a  bridge,  and  rode  through  a  very  fine  country, 
in  all  eight  miles  to  Glasgow.  Two  miles  from  Hamilton  we 
came  to  Bothwell,  where  there  is  a  small  Gothick  church 
covered  with  stone  about  two  inches  thick  in  a  singular 
manner.4  In  each  stone  is  a  small  segment  of  a  circle,  and  one 

is  laid  over  the  joints  in  this  manner5  ^vS-J^7^--^7   in  order 

to  keep  out  the  water.  It  was  a  collegiate  church,  founded  in 
1398  by  Archibald  Earl  of  Douglass,  for  a  provost  and  eight 
prebendaries. — I  am,  etc. 

1  The  Palace  (never  called  a  House)  was  very  much  altered  and  enlarged  by 
the  grandfather  of  the  present  Duke,  who  also  made  one  of  the  finest  collec- 
tions of  art  in  the  kingdom.     This  was  dispersed  by  the  present  Duke  a  few 
years  ago  by  auction  in  London. 

2  This  church,  in  ruins,  was  finally  removed  at  the  alterations  in  the  Palace, 
as  it  stood  close  to  the  buildings,  and  the  same  Duke  that  enlarged  the  Palace 
(Duke  Alexander)  expended  an  enormous  sum  in  making  a  new  burial-place  for 
the  family.     He  built  a  huge  Mausoleum,  in  imitation  of  the  Emperor  Hadrian's 
tomb  at  Rome,  on  a  knoll  of  ground  in  the  park. 

3  Erected  in  1 732,  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Adams. 

4  A  new  church,  with  tower,  has  been  added  to  the  old  one,  which  is  retained 
as  a  burial-chapel,  forming  part  of  the  cruciform  structure. 

5  '  The  arched  roof  is  covered  with  large  polished  flags  of  stone,  somewhat 
in  the  form  of  pan-tiles.' — Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  xvi.  p.  321. 


GLASGOW.  49 


LETTER  X. 

GLASGOW,  May  the  zyh,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — Glasgow  is  finely  situated  on  the  Clyde. 
The  old  town  is  on  a  hill  at  some  distance  from  the  river, 
bounded  to  the  east  by  a  rivulet1  which  runs  in  a  rocky  glyn. 
The  Cathedral  is  at  the  east  end.  The  rest  of  the  hill  is  formed 
into  gardens  to  the  south,  which  have  a  pretty  effect,  though 
they  have  very  few  fruit  trees  in  them.  The  new  town  con- 
sists of  two  streets  nearly  a  measured  mile  in  length,  with 
several  other  streets  crossing  at  right  angles.  The  town  is 
finely  built  of  hewn  stone.  Most  of  the  houses  are  four  stories 
high,  and  some  five.  The  streets  are  extremely  well  paved  and 
in  the  middle  of  them  is  a  stone  a  foot  broad,  and  in  some  a 
stone  also  on  each  side,  on  which  the  people  walk,  but  mostly 
in  the  middle.  Several  merchants  have  grand  houses.  They 
have  a  fine  old  townhouse,  and  a  beautifull  new  townhouse 
adjoyning  to  it.  There  are  fine  markets  opposite  one  another, 
which  are  fronted  with  hewn  stone,  with  three  pediments  over 
three  doors,  and  false  windows  between  them.  One  is  for  the 
flesh  of  small  cattle,  in  the  other  there  are  conveniencies  for 
hanging  up  beeves.  They  have  also  a  market  for  herbs.  There 
is  a  singular  conveniency  here,  which  is  a  sort  of  portico  built 
round  a  court  for  washing,  with  a  large  furnace  in  each  corner. 
It  is  in  the  Green,  and  is  farmed  out  by  the  city.  Everyone 
pays  for  boiling  water  by  the  measure,  and  they  lay  the  cloaths 
to  dry  on  the  Green,  which  grazes  a  hundred  cattle,  at  twenty 
shillings  a  head.  They  have  six  or  seven  parish  churches. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Mungo,  alias  Kentigern,'  by  whom 
some  say  it  was  founded  in  560,  and  that  he  was  Bishop  of 
Glasgow,  others  think  that  he  was  only  the  first  preacher  of 
Christianity  here.  Bishop  Jocelyn  in  1197  is  said  to  have 
built  the  present  Cathedral,  which  is  a  good  Gothick  fabric, 
much  finer  and  grander  within  as  to  the  architecture  than  with- 
out.,. An  inscription  at  Melross  mentions  Murdoc,  the  architect 

1  The  Molendinar  Burn,  on  whose  banks  St.  Kentigern  set  up  his  cell.     See 
Jocelyn's  Life. 

D 


50  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

of  that  church,  as  the  contriver  both  of  this  and  Paisley*1  There 
is  an  old  church  under  the  east  end,  probably  the  remains  of 
the  first  cathedral.  The  Gothick  arches  seem  to  have  been 
turned  on  the  old  Saxon  pillars.  Bishop -James  Bethune2  went 
abroad  on  the  approach  of  the  Reformation  with  the  archives 
of  the  church,  which  he  deposited  at  Paris  in  the  Scotch 
College,  and  at  the  Carthusians.  He  was  the  last  Archbishop. 
Before  him  Archbishop  James  Bethune  of  1508,  being  turned 
out  of  the  Chancellorship  (after  he  had  moved  in  relation  to 
reading  of  the  Scriptures  in  English  that  it  should  be  referred 
to  a  National  Synod)  improved  his  house,  and  built  that  fine 
gateway  in  the  front  of  it.  The  whole  is  encompassed  with  a 
high  well  built  wall.  The  revenues  of  the  Bishoprick  chiefly 
consisting  of  tythes  and  duties,  which  latter,  I  suppose  are 
chiefries  were  granted  to  the  College.  At  the  Reformation,  in 
these  chiefries,  it  was  valued  at  £981,  8s.  7d.  They  have  an 
agent  who  pays  the  stipends  to  the  ministers,  and  I  was  told 
they  do  not  make  above  dClOOO  a  year  clear  of  it.  The  new 
Church  is  on  the  design  of  St.  MartinVin-the-Fields,  but  I  was 
told  not  above  half  as  big.  The  freestone  is  yellow,  and  it  has 
turned  of  different  colours,  which  takes  off  greatly  from  the 
beauty  of  it.  They  have  some  churches  of  Seceders,  and  a 
small  nonj  uring  Episcopal  congregation.  The  English  Licenced 
Episcopal  congregation  have  built  a  very  handsome  oblong 
square  church  near  the  Green,3  on  the  model  of  the  churches 
in  London,  for  galleries  which  are  not  yet  built.  It  cost  about 
dCHOO.  The  minister  has  about  £60  a  year  from  the  collec- 

1  The  inscription  is  on  a  tablet  to  the  south  side  of  the  transept  door  of  the 
Abbey  of  Melrose,  and  has  been  rendered  thus  : — 


'  John  Murdo,  sum  tym  callyt  was  I, 
And  born  in  Parysse  certainly, 
And  had  in  keping  all  mason  werk 
Of  Santandrays,  ye  hye  Kirk 


'  Of  Glasgu,  Melros,  and  Paslay, 
Of  Nyddsdall,  and  of  Galway  : 
I  pray  to  God  and  Mary  bath, 
And  sweet  St.  John  kep  this  haly  Kirk  fra 


skaith.' 

2  For  a  detailed  inventory  of  the  relics  and  valuables  removed  by  Archbishop 
Beaton,  or  Bethune  second,  in  1560,  see  Registrant  Episcopates  Glasguensis. 

3  St.  Andrew's  Willow  Acre,  Low  Green  Street,  the  oldest  Episcopal  Chapel 
in  Scotland.     It  was  built  in  1750.    The  Mason  engaged  in  its  construction  was 
excommunicated  by  the  religious  body  of  Anti-Burghers  to  which  he  belonged, 
for  the  '  sinful  and  scandalous  work  of  building  the  Episcopal  Meeting  House,' 
an  eloquent  commentary  on  the  religious  tolerance  of  the  times.   The  Rev.  Dr. 
J.  F.  S.  Gordon,  the  present  Incumbent,  has  not  succeeded  in  finding  any  refer- 
ence to  Bishop  Pococke's  visitation  in  the  books  of  the  Church. 


GLASGOW.  51 

tions.  They  perform  divine  service  in  a  most  decent  and 
solemn  manner,  chanting  the  hymns  and  singing  the  psalms 
extremely  well  insomuch  that  I  think  I  never  saw  divine  offices 
performed  with  such  real  edification.1  The  people  here  and  at 
Paisley  keep  Sunday  with  great  strictness.  They  all  attend 
divine  service,  and  are  not  allowed  to  walk  out  on  a  Sunday  in 
company.2  They  have  no  holydays  and  this  preserves  them 
perfectly  sober  and  industrious,  and  if  it  could  be  kept  to,  it 
is  certainly  a  very  good  regulation,  even  in  a  political  point 
of  view.  They  shut  up  their  shops  early  in  the  evening,  open 
late  in  the  morning,  and  take  proper  refreshments.  There 
were  two  monasteries  in  this  town.  The  Blackfriers  was  at  the 
church  of  that  name,  near  the  college,  which  is  entirely  new 
built.  It  was  founded  by  the  dean  and  chapter  in  1270.  The 
other  of  Observantines  was  founded  in  1476  by  Bishop  John 
[Laing]  and  Thomas  Forsyth,  rector  of  Glasgow.  The  learned 
Friar  John  Russel3  was  of  it,  who  was  burnt  in  1559  for  an 
Heretick,  and  the  next  year  [1559]  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
Duke  of  Chatelheraut  and  the  Earle  of  Argyle. 

This  City  has  above  all  others  felt  the  advantages  of  the 
Union,  by  the  West  India  trade  they  enjoy,  which  is  very 
great,  especially  in  Tobacco,  Indigoes,  and  Sugar.  The  first  is 
a  great^trade  in  time  of  war  ;  as  they  send  the  Tobacco  by  land 
to  the  port  of  the  Frith  of  Forth,  almost  as  far  as  Hopton,  and 
supply  France.  They  have  sugar  houses,  and  make  what  is 
called  Scotch  Indigo,  which  is  compounded  with  starch  as  to 

1  Dr.  Pococke  does  not  record  that  he  preached  twice  during  his  short  stay  in 
Glasgow.    The  following  appeared  in  The  Glasgow  Journal  of  2gth  May  1 760  : 
'  On  Saturday  last  arrived  here  the  Right  Reverend  Doctor  Richard  Pocock, 
bishop  of  Ossory,  and  next  day  being  Whitsunday,  performed  divine  Service  in 
the  English  chapel,  and  on  Tuesday  after  a  sermon  suited  to  the  occasion,  con- 
firmed a  great  number.'    A  similar  paragraph  appeared  in  The  Edinbiirgh  Even- 
ing Courant  of  3 1st  May. 

2  This  excessive  zeal  for  Sunday  observance  appears  to  have  been  after  the 
Bishop's  own  heart.     The  good  custom,  however,  had  degenerated  into  tyranny, 
being  enforced  with  magisterial  authority.     There  were  men  appointed  called 
'  compurgators, '  who  apprehended  and  publicly  prosecuted  Sunday  desecrators, 
and  even  those  who  were  walking  for  pleasure.     This  state  of  matters  continued 
until  Mr.  Blackburn  was  taken  into  custody  for  walking  on  the  Green  ;  where- 
upon he  raised  an  action  in  the  Court  of  Session  against  the  Magistrates  for  an 
'  unwarranted  exercise  of  authority,'  and  obtained  a  decision  against  them. 

3  The  martyrdom  of  Jerom  Russel  took  place  in  1538. 


52  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

make  a  very  fine  light  blue.  In  order  to  carry  on  this  trade 
properly  they  have  gone  into  a  great  variety  of  manufactures, 
to  have  sortments  of  goods  to  be  exported,  as  all  the  inkle  l 
smallwares,  linnens  of  all  kinds,  small  ironwares,  glass  bottles, 
and  earthenwares,  which  latter  they  make  in  great  perfection. 
Many  considerable  estates  have  been  made  here,  especially  by 
those  who  have  gone  to  the  West  Indies,  many  of  whom  have 
returned  and  purchased  in  Clydesdale. 

The  college  consists  of  a  principal,  a  clergyman  put  in  by 
the  Government,  and  several  professors.  The  six  principal 
live  in  the  Colledge.  There  are  besides  these  head  professors 
others,  one  or  more  in  every  science,  who  act  for  them 
occasionally.  Some  students  of  distinction  live  with  the 
professors,  but  the  rest  abroad.  They  all  wear  red  gowns, 
mostly  of  cloth.  They  commonly  enter  very  young,  and  in 
that  case  are  kept  the  first  year  to  Humanity.  A  great 
number  come  from  Ireland,  some  of  them  for  the  Church  and 
Physick  as  well  as  for  the  Presbyterian  assemblies.^ 

This  inscription  in  the  Colledge  was  found  lately  at  Kirkin- 
tilloch,  six  miles  from  Glasgow,  on  the  Roman  wall.  There  is 
a  crack  in  the  stone  2  — 

SIMP. 


Pfo  P-JWEX/LLk 

LEG- 


1  Inkle  or  incle  ;  anciently  a  kind  of  crewel  or  worsted  work,  but  generally 
known  as  a  sort  of  narrow  fillet  or  tape  made  of  linen  yarn.     This  trade  was 
begun  in  Glasgow  in  1 732  by  Alexander  Harvey,  who  had  the  enterprise  to  go  to 
Holland,  the  seat  of  the  inkle  smallware  trade,  and  in  spite  of  the   secrecy 
observed,  succeeded  in  purchasing  in  Haarlem  two  looms,  and  engaging  an  ex- 
perienced workman. 

2  This  tablet  is  preserved  in  the  Hunterian  Museum,  Glasgow  University. 
It  is  illustrated  in  Stuart's  Caledonia  Romano,  Plate  x.  fig.  5,  p.  324,  2d  Ed. 


GLASGOW,  RENFREW,  PAISLEY.  53 

There  is  a  narrow  bridge,  which  is  rather  failing,  over  the 
Clyde,  so  that  they  propose  to  build  another  lower  down  the 
country.  About  Glasgow  is  a  very  fine  open  country,  with 
trees  about  the  houses,  hamlets,  and  villages  that  have  a  very 
fine  effect. — I  am,  etc. 


LETTER  XI. 

Lus,  ON  LOUGH  LOUMOND,  May  ^oth,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  28th  I  made  an  excursion  to  the 
west  of  Glasgow,  going  near  the  river.  We  came  in  two  miles 
to  Givan,1  where  there  is  a  square  mount.  Two  miles  more 
brought  us  to  Renfrew,  a  small  town.  It  was  on  the  Clyde, 
but  the  river  on  a  thaw  after  a  great  frost,  about  a  hundred 
years  agoe,  changed  its  course,  leaving  King^s  Inch  Castle,2  the 
seat  of  the  ancient  Stewards  of  Scotland,  on  the  south  side, 
which  had  been  formerly  on  the  north.  A  little  stream  runs 
in  the  old  course,  and  forms  an  island  of  about  one  hundred 
acres,  near  half  a  mile  in  length. 

From  this  place  we  crossed  two  miles  north  to  Paisley,  a 
great  manufacturing  town  for  Linnen.  It  is  thought  to  be  the 
Vanduara  of  Ptolemy,  called  in  the  new  map  Vandugria.  What 
I  saw  to  the  south-east  of  the  Abbey  Church  on  the  river  Carte 
appeared  most  like  a  Roman  work.  It  is  just  opposite  to  the 
fine  water  cataract  down  the  rocks,  which  may  fall  about  eight 
feet.  The  Monastery  of  Paisley  was  first  a  priory,  and  made  an 
abbey  of  black  monks,  of  the  order  of  Cluny  from  Wenlock,  in 
England,  by  Walter,  son  of  Alan,  Lord  Steward  of  Scotland,  in 
1164.3  It  was  the  burial-place  of  that  family  untill  they  were 
made  Kings  of  Scotland.  Robert  the  Second,  the  first  of  this 

1  Govan. 

«  King's  Inch,  now  part  of  the  demesne  of  Eldersly  House. 

8  In  the  Chartulary  of  Paisley  the  monastery  is  stated  to  have  been  founded  in 
1 163  for  a  Prior  and  thirteen  Cluniac  Monks,  whom  its  founder  brought  from 
Wenlock  Abbey  in  Shropshire.  '  The  Order  derived  its  name  from  the  Abbey 
of  Cluni  in  Burgundy,  the  first,  and  always  the  chief,  house  of  what  were  termed 
the  reformed  Benedictines. ' — Pref.  to  Chart.  Paisley,  p.  3,  Maitland  Club  Pub. 


54  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

family,  his  first  wife,  Elizabeth  Muir,1  famous  in  history,  and 
Euphemia  Ross,  his  queen,  were  buried  here;  and  Marjory 
Bruce,  his  mother ;  whose  tomb  with  a  couchant  statue  on  it  I 
saw,  and  what  they  call  an  altar  near,  with  a  Gothick  ornament 
on  it,  as  if  it  had  been  over  some  statue,  but  this  probably  was 
part  of  another  tomb.  There  is  a  tradition  that  she  broke  her 
neck  a-hunting,  and  that  a  surgeon  being  near,  Robert  was 
taken  out  of  her  body.  There  is  a  vault  in  which  they  are  all 
deposited.  It  is  a  chapel,  now  uncovered  and  ruinous,  to  the 
south  of  the  church.  The  architecture  of  the  west  end  of  the 
church  is  singular,  with  a  sharp  pointed  arch  to  the  door  and  a 
nich  on  each  side  in  the  same  taste,  like  great  part  of  the 
Cathedral  of  Glasgow,  built  about  the  same  time,  and  without 
doubt  by  the  same  architect2  as  observed  before.  The  inside  is 
also  singular,  particularly  in  a  sort  of  large  console  between  the 
upper  windows  as  if  to  place  statues  on.  The  architecture  of 
the  inside  is  here  represented.  In  the  north  of  the  church  is 
an  inscription  of  1333,  of  which  I  could  make  nothing.  They 
have  taken  down  the  isles,  and  the  body  wanting  that  support 
the  arches  are  failing.  The  choir  is  entirely  down.  On  the 
south  side  of  the  transept  is  the  burial-place,  if  I  mistake  not 
of  Lord  Dundonald.  The  enclosure  of  the  garden,  fourteen 
acres,  is  of  very  fine  hewn  stone  inside  and  outside,  built  by 
Abbot  George  Schaw.  At  the  north-west  corner  is  an  inscrip- 
tion, which  was  not  legible  to  me,  but  I  was  informed  it  is  as 
follows : — 

They  called  the  Abbot  George  of  Schaw 

About  my  Abby  make  this  wall, 

A  thousand  and  four  hundred  years 

And  eighty  four  the  date  but  were, 

Let  these  pray  for  his  salvation 

That  layed  this  noble  foundation.3 

In  another  part  which  I  did  not  see  is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin 
Mary  in  a  nich.  The  distich  under  it  is  thus  printed : — 

Hac  ne  vade  via,  nisi  dixeris  Ave  Maria  : 
Sit  semper  sine  vas  quae  tibi  dixit  Ave. 

1  Elizabeth  More  or  Mure,  daughter  of  Sir  Adam  More  or  Mure  of  Rowallan. 

2  John  Murdo,  one  of  the  architects  of  the  Churches  of  St.  Andrews,  Glasgow, 
Melrose,  etc.     See  note,  p.  50. 

3  A  modernised  rendering  of  the  quaint  inscription. 


PAISLEY  ABBEY. 


55 


The  Inside  of  the  Church  of  the  Abbey  of  Paisley. 


56  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

The  last  Abbot,1  Lord  Claud  Hamilton,  third  son  of  James 
Duke  of  Chatelheraut,  Governour  of  Scotland,  was  made  abbot 
at  twelve  years  old,  and  having  forfeited  on  Queen  Mary^s  side 
at  the  battle  of  Langside  in  1568,  the  abbey  was  granted  to 
William,  Lord  Semple,  heritable  Bailey  of  Paisley.  But  Lord 
Claude  being  restored  to  his  fortune  by  James  the  Sixth,  was 
created  Lord  Paisley.  His  son,  the  Earl  of  Abercorn,  parted 
with  this  abbey  to  William,  first  Earl  of  Dundonald,  in  whose 
posterity  it  remains  at  present.  There  are  two  other  kirks  in 
this  place,  and  a  congregation  of  Seceders,  and  they  have  a 
large  poorhouse.  Lord  Dundonald  is  disposing  of  all  the  land 
of  the  abbey  garden  for  the  manufactory,  a  plan  of  which 
design  is  engraved. 

On  a  hill  to  the  west  was  an  old  British  fort,  which  seemed 
to  have  been  round.  There  is  a  pleasant  bowling  green  within 
it.  On  a  hill  a  little  to  the  west  is  another  called  Hothead 
Camp,  and  to  the  south  about  half-a-mile  is  another  on  a  hill 
called  Woodside,  each  of  them  about  three-quarters  of  an  acre. 
From  this  height  we  saw  Lord  Rosses,  about  two  miles  off  called 
Hawkhead,  and  to  the  east  Cardonal,2  Lord  Blantyre^s.  We 
went  on  and  had  in  view  to  the  north  the  river3  which  runs  by 
Kilwining  Abbey,  and  forms  beautifull  pieces  of  water  before 
a  handsome  country  seat. 

We  came  in  eight  miles  to  Baith,  a  poor  small  town  of 
farmers.  Going  on,  in  about  a  mile  we  passed  by  a  mote,4  and 
had  in  view  a  long  low  hill5  called  the  Bank  Head  of  the  Blair, 
which  at  first  appeared  much  as  if  it  had  been  worked  into  a 
Roman  fortification  at  one  end. 

In  about  five  miles  from  Baith,  we  came  to  Kilwining 
Abbey,  two  miles  north-west  of  Irwin.  This  abbey  was 
founded  in  1140  by  Hugh  Morevile,  Constable  of  Scotland, 

1  Lord  Claud  Hamilton  had  the  abbacy  conferred  on  him  by  his  uncle,  John 
Hamilton,  the  last  Abbot,  in  1549.  Through  his  adhering  to  Queen  Mary  he  was 
superseded,  and  Robert,  Lord  Semple,  was  appointed  Commendator.  He  was 
afterwards  restored,  but  had  to  fly  into  England,  and  was  again  restored  in  1587, 
when  he  was  created  Lord  Paisley,  and  had  the  whole  monastery  property  granted 
to  him  in  fee.  In  1606  his  son  was  created  Earl  of  Abercorn,  and  the  property 
remained  in  that  family  till  1652,  when  part  of  it  was  sold  to  Lord  Dundonald. 

-  Cardonald.  3  The  Garnock  River. 

4  Hill  of  Beith.  5  Caerwinning  Hill. 


PAISLEY,  BEITH,  IRVINE.  57 

and  dedicated  to  St.  Winning.  The  monks  were  of  the  order 
of  St  Bernard,  called  Tyronenses,  from  Tyro  in  the  diocese  of 
Chartres,  where  he  settled  them.  They  were  brought  to  that 
place  from  Kelso  Abbey.  It  is  finely  situated  on  a  river  which 
falls  into  the  sea  at  Irwin.  The  tower  is  very  grand,  but  what 
is  singular,  the  entrance  was  only  on  the  south  side  of  it.  The 
body  of  the  church  is  entirely  destroyed.  The  quire  was  not 
so  magnificent,  and  is  turned  into  a  parish  church.1  I  observed 
the  members  of  the  architecture  are  very  much  in  the  plain 
Saxon  style,  but  the  arches  are  Gothic. 

I  went  two  miles  to  Irwin,2  and  having  crossed  the  river, 
observed  a  tumulus,  and  some  works  that  were  much  like  a 
Roman  camp.  Irwin  is  situated  between  two  rivers,3  and  a 
third  falls  in  very  near  them.  It  is  a  pretty  good  harbour, 
and  they  have  a  great  trade4  in  fishing,  and  in  exporting  coal 
to  Ireland  called  Scotch  coal.  They  make  Scotch  blew,  and 
have  a  great  manufactory  of  ropes  for  shipping.  There  is 
something  singular  in  the  door  and  window  cases  of  the  castle5 
or  old  ruined  mansion-house  of  the  Earl  of  Eglington,  to  whose 
ancestor  the  lands  of  Kilwining  Abbey  were  granted  and 
erected  into  a  Lordship.  They  are  adorned  with  a  kind  of 
twisted  pilaster  and  other  members,  the  ornaments  of  which  are 
very  delicate,  drawings  of  them  are  here  seen.  [See  pp.  58,  59.] 

Here  was  a  Monastery6  of  Carmelites,  founded  by  the  Laird 
of  Fullarton  in  112  .  .  .  The  Church,6  which  now  serves  for 
the  parish,  seems  to  be  very  old,  with  small  windows,  turned 
with  two  arches.  I  could  get  no  information  whether  this  was 
the  church  of  the  monastery. 

I  came  from  this  place  four  miles  through  a  very  fine 
country  to  Kilmarnock,  observing  a  square  mount  or  mote 

1  The  tower  fell  in  1814,  and  the  'quire'  was  removed  in  1775,  when  the 
present  parish  church  was  built. 

2  Irvine,  formerly  written  Irwin,  Irwine,  and  Irwyn. 

3  Rivers  Garnock,  Irvine,  and  Anack. 

4  In  1 760  Irvine  was  the  third  port  in  Scotland. 

5  '  The    Seagate   Castle   is   a   ruinous   fabric   of  considerable  antiquity.      It 
belongs  to  the  Earl  of  Eglington,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  intended  as  the 
jointure-house  of  the  Dowager  Ladies  of  that  family.' — Robertson's  Top.  Ac.  of 
Cunningham.     See   forthcoming  vol.,   'Irvine,'  Ayr  and  Gal.  Arch.  Assoc., 
twelve  plates  by  W.  Galloway,  F.S.A.  Scot. 

6  Founded  about  1285.     On  its  site  stands  the  present  church,  built  in  1774- 


58 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


half  way  at  Thornton,  and  saw  Lord  Eglington's  house,  with 
fine  plantations  about  it,  two  miles  north-east  of  Irwin,  and 
near  Kilmarnock  to  the  south  Cubringtown,1  I  suppose  the 
same  as  Carpentown  in  the  map,  a  fine  old  castle  belonging 


Doorway  at  the  Mansion-house  at  Irwin.2 

to  Sir  John  Cunningham.  Kilmarnock  is  situated  on  a  rising- 
ground  at  the  confluence  of  two  rivers.  There  is  a  tolerable 
square,  but  the  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  houses  thatched, 
though  adorned  with  stone  cornices  as  in  many  other  parts. 
They  have  two  good  churches,  that  on  the  site  of  the  Parish 
Church  as  well  as  the  other  being  new  built.  They  have  a 
1  Caprington.  2  The  arch  is  segmental,  not  circular. 


IRVINE,  KILMARNOCK. 


59 


great  manufactory  of  carpets,  woven  Scotch  bonnets,  serges, 
shaloons,  narrow  cloaths,  and  some  broad  cloath.  When  we 
came  to  the  town  all  the  shops  were  shut,  nor  would  they  sell 
anything,  and  almost  all  the  people  were  at  church,  being  the 
Fast  Day  before  the  Sacrament.  The  carpet  manufacture  has 


Window  at  the  Mansion-house  at  Irwin. 

been  settled  here  about  a  dozen  years.  A  little  higher  up  the 
river  is  Castle  Loudon,  the  residence  of  the  earl  of  that  name. 
Near  the  river  of  Aire  they  have  a  quarry  out  of  which  they 
get  whetstones.1 

1  The  celebrated  Water-of-Ayr  hones. 


60  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

I  set  forward,  and  observed  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  town  a  head  of  land  made  by  the  river  to  the  east,  and  a 
valley  to  the  west.  The  south  end  of  it  has  been  fortified  with 
a  fossee  drawn  across  the  north  side.  Just  without  this  is 
Kilmarnock  Castle,1  now  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Glencairn, 
who  never  lives  there.  A  mile  further  we  passed  by  a  very 
good  mansion-house  called  Crawford  Land,2  belonging  to  one  of 
that  name,  who  they  told  me  was  abroad. 

The  road  was  for  about  six  miles  near  the  river,  and  part  of 
it  up  the  mountain,  and  having  travelled  ten  miles  we  came 
within  six  of  Glasgow  at  the  summit  on  the  other  side  called 
Haslewood,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  Glasgow,  and 
all  the  country  round.  On  this  height  is  a  stone  set  up  on  end, 
as  a  mark,  it  may  be,  of  an  ancient  burial-place.  We  came  to 
the  river  Carte,  which  runs  in  a  deep  glyn  with  rocks  on  each 
side  adorned  with  trees,  and  soon  arrived  at  the  castle  of  Cath 
Carte,  opposite  a  little  village  called  the  Brayhead  of  the  Carte, 
where  we  crossed  the  river.  This  castle  gives  title  to  the  Earl  of 
Cath  Carte.  All  the  country  we  passed  through  is  full  of  coals, 
and  abounds  in  a  black  kind  of  granite  in  which  there  are  very 
small  grains  of  white  sparr. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XII. 

INVERARAY,_/«««  2d,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  30th  I  left  Glasgow,  and  travelled 
near  the  river  by  several  country  seats,  and  through  a  fine 
country,  eight  miles  to  Old  Kirkpatrick,3  where  many  think  the 
wall  of  Antonine  ended,  but  they  told  me  nothing  is  seen  of  it 
here.  They  see  some  remains  of  it  towards  New  Kirkpatrick.4 
Here  St.  Patrick  was  born,  his  father,  a  Roman  who  fled  into 
this  country  from  the  persecution  of  the  Emperor,  for  many 
Christians  settled  here  on  this  account.  It  is  conjectured  that 
his  ancestor  was  a  Patrician. 

1  Dean  Castle,  now  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Portland.     For  illustrations 
see  Trans,  of  Ayr  and  Wigtown  Arch.  Soc.,  vol.  iii.  p.  112;  also  Castellated  Arch, 
of  Scotland,  by  Messrs.  MacGibbon  and  Ross,  1887,  vol.  i.  pp.  401-408. 

2  Crawfurdland  Castle.  3  Old  Kilpatrick.  4  New  Kilpatrick. 


CATHCART,  GLASGOW,  DUMBARTON.    61 

A  mile  further  is  Douglas  Castle,1  on  a  rock,  three  sides  of 
which  are  covered  by  the  water  of  the  river.  There  are  some 
fine  hewn  stones  in  it,  and  enquiring  here  about  the  wall,  they 
showed  me  a  mound  in  a  garden  which  they  said  they  took  to 
be  part  of  it,  and  that  a  little  further,  at  a  channel  for  water  from 
the  hill,  which  is  made  under  the  road,  they  found  a  part  of  the 
field  very  stony,  which  they  thought  was  part  of  the  founda- 
tion of  the  wall.  This  old  castle,  which  was  small,  is  in  ruins. 

About  a  mile  further  is  the  curious  castle  of  Dumbarton, 
which  is  Alcluith  mentioned  by  Bede,  and  to  the  north  of 
Clyde  the  Scots  from  Ireland  settled  under  Reuda,  their  leader. 
This  castle  is  situated  on  a  high  rock,  with  the  water  on  three 
sides  of  it.  I  was  at  it  in  1747.  The  entrance  is  at  the  east 
side,  from  which  one  ascends  by  a  winding  way  on  the  south 
side.  On  this  side  there  is  a  very  good  house.  The  road  up 
turns  round  to  the  west  side,  where  towards  the  summit  are 
other  buildings.  There  is  a  wall  from  near  the  top,  on  the 
north  side,  and  along  part  of  the  west  side  where  it  is  weakest. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  as  between  the  two  castles,  is 
a  seat  which  stands  finely,  having  a  view  of  both  the  castles,  of 
the  town  of  Dumbarton,  up  and  down  the  Clyde,  and  up  the 
river  Leven  towards  Lough  Loughman,  and  further  down  is 
another  seat  adjoining  to  an  old  castle  in  much  the  same  kind 
of  situation. 

The  town  of  Dumbarton  is  on  a  flat  peninsula  formed  by 
the  winding  of  the  Leven.  There  was  a  collegiate  church  in  it, 
founded  in  1450  by  Isabell,  Countess  of  Lenox  and  Duchess  of 
Albany,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Patrick,  who  they  say  was  born 
in  Lenox. 

The  coach  way  is  by  Dumbarton  ferry,  but  is  two  miles 
about,  so  we  went  up  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  soon  came  to  a 
most  charming  place,  Leven  Side,  Mr.  Campbell's,  being  finely 
situated  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  windings  of  the  river 
both  ways.  From  this  we  soon  came  to  Bonille 2  ferry,  where  we 
began  to  have  a  view  of  Lough  Loughman,3  and  crossed  over  the 

1  Dunglass  Castle,  the  ancient  stronghold  of  the  Colquhouns.      Erected  in 
1380  ;  garrisoned  till  near  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

2  Bonhill. 

3  Loch   Lomond,  derived,  according   to   Dr.   MacLauchlan,  from    Laoman, 
one  of  the  heroes  of  Celtic  antiquity.      Vide  Celtic  Gleanings,  pp.  130,  131. 


62  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Leven,  which  runs  out  of  it  into  a  most  charming,  romantick 
country,  with  a  great  number  of  streams  that  divide  the  hills 
covered  with  wood,  all  having  good  bridges  over  them.  We 
first  had  a  large  island1  in  view,  and  two  smaller  to  the  north- 
east, the  first  appearing  in  different  shapes  according  to  the 
places  from  which  we  saw  it.  Then  other  islands  open  to  view. 
One  or  two  of  them  are  large,  and  several  small  ones — all 
covered  with  wood,  as  well  as  the  hills  to  the  west. 

At  last  we  saw  the  Castle  of  Lus  ;  to  which  there  is  adjoyn- 
ing  a  good  mansion-house.  It  is  on  a  peninsula  which  points 
to  the  north,  having  a  small  creek  to  the  west  of  it,  and  is  a 
most  charming  situation,  inhabited  by  a  baronet  of  the  family 
of  Grant,2  who  takes  his  name  from  this  place,  which  has  a  more 
particular  denomination.3  We  came  to  the  inn  at  Lus,  between 
which  and  the  castle  is  the  church  and  parsonage  house.  A  long 
island  lies  before  it  as  in  the  middle  of  the  Lough,  and  another 
most  beautifull  one  stretches  from  the  south,  covered  with  woods 
of  firr  and  other  trees  of  different  greens,  with  a  smaller  island 
to  the  east.  The  top  of  a  larger  appears  over  it,  towards  which 
the  foot  of  the  eastern  mountain,  beautifully  broken,  extends  to 
the  south,  and  these  mountains  are  covered  with  several  spots  of 
corn  as  well  as  wood  and  rock,  and  cascades  falling  down  all 
round  after  the  great  rain.  I  went  on  by  tl\e  military  road 
made  from  Dumbarton  to  this  place,  and  so  along  over  the 
lake  to  Torbut,  and  from  that  place  to  Fort  William  which  is 

63  measured  miles  from  Torbut.     Near  Lus  they  have  very 
good  slate  quarries.4     This  road  was  made  by  blowing  up  the 
rocks  in  several  places.     The  miles  are  marked  on  the  rock, 
and  three  miles  from  Lus  is  this  inscription — 

COLONEL  LASCELLES  regiment,  May  1745  ; 
that  regiment  being  employed  in  this  part  of  the  road. 

There  are  no  islands  on  the  lake  from  Lus  to  Torbut,  and 

1  Inchmurrin  (the  largest  and  most  southerly).     On  it  are  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle,  which  once  belonged  to  the  Earls  of  Lennox. 

2  Grant  of  Grant  married  Ann,  heiress  of  Luss,  and  by  an  ante-nuptial  con- 
tract it  was  settled  that  in  certain  events  (which  happened)  the  oldest  son  should 
inherit  the  estate  of  Grant,  the  second  Luss — the  Colquhoun  estates, — and  assume 
the  name  and  arms  of  Colquhoun. 

3  Ross-dhu,  the  seat  of  Sir  J.  Colquhoun,  Bart. 

4  Camstraddan. 


LOCH  LOMOND,  LUSS,  TARBET.  63 

it  appears  like  a  river  being  about  a  mile  wide.  Half  a  dozen 
islands  appeared  opposite  to  Lus  which  were  not  seen  before. 
Some  of  them  indeed  are  only  rocks.  The  road  is  extremely 
pleasant,  trees  growing  beautifully  on  each  side,  and  after  the 
rains  streams  of  water,  rushing  down  the  rocks,  are  seen  in 
beautiful  cascades  through  the  trees  almost  every  hundred 
yards  all  the  way. 

After  three  or  four  miles  we  came  to  Lower  Inver  Douglas,1 
where  the  Douglas  passes  under  a  bridge,  having  formed  a 
cascade  above  it  which  falls  down  the  rocks  about  10  feet. 
Here  is  a  tumulus,  and  before  this  place  is  a  beautifull  flat 
promontory.  Just  beyond  Torbut,2  the  lake  not  being  above 
half  a  mile  broad,  the  land  locks  in,  so  that  it  appears  like  the 
end  of  the  Lough.  From  Torbut  the  road  goes  off  to  Inver- 
aray  to  the  west,  another  military  road  going  northward  to 
Fort  William  63  miles. 

I  took  a  boat  and  went  eight  miles  to  the  north  end  of  the 
lake,  where  the  river  falls  into  it,  near  a  little  hillock  which 
appears  like  a  tumulus.  There  is  an  island3  opposite  to  Torbut, 
and  four  more  higher  up,  which  are  all  small  except  one  which 
contains  about  an  acre,  and  it  is  entirely  covered  with  wood  as 
the  others  are,  and  there  is  an  old  house  on  it  in  which  a  late 
Laird  of  Macfarlin  lived  to  whom  all  this  country  belonged.  In 
one  part  is  a  beautifull  high  head4  which  makes  into  the  lake 
from  the  east,  and  appears  like  an  island. 

They  have  in  the  lake  perch  about  eight  inches  long,  pike, 
trouts,  and  powens,5  which  are  a  sort  of  white  fish,  a  kind  of 
fresh  water  herring,  and  not  very  good. 

I  went  ashore  to  go  to  the  redoubt  commonly  called  the 
fort  of  Inversnade.  It  is  a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Snade,  and  the  soldiers  have  made  a  road  to  it.  It  holds  two 
companies,  and  is  fortified  against  anything  but  cannon.  There 

1  Inveruglass.  2  Tarbet. 

3  Eilean  Vhou,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  a  stronghold  of  the  Macfarlanes. 

4  Ben  Lomond  seemingly  did  not  attract  the  attention  of  the  Bishop,  or  what 
is  more  likely,  the  noble  mountain  might  be  enveloped  in  mist  when  he  passed. 
See  note  5,  p.  68. 

5  The  Powan,  Corregonus  Cepedii  (Gaelic,  pollag  or  pollac).     A  rare  fresh- 
water fish  peculiar  to  Loch  Lomond  and  Loch  Eck,  akin  to  the  Irish  pollan  and 
the  vendace  of  Lochmaben. 


64  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

is  a  horse  road  this  way  to  Sterling,  which  is  18  miles  distant. 
The  river  Snade  falls  down  in  different  cascades  at  least  300 
feet,  some  ten  feet,  some  more,  but  the  last  falls  in  three 
streams  divided  by  the  rocks,  and  one  of  them  a  little  lower 
divides  into  two.  The  fall  is  between  30  and  40  feet  and 
extremely  beautifull,  and  highly  adorned  with  rocks  and  trees. 

Opposite  to  this  on  the  other  side  they  told  me  is  Lough 
Slowie,  I  suppose  the  same  as  Lough  Sloy l  which  they  told  me 
is  a  mile  long  and  half  a  mile  broad,  in  which  there  are  small 
trouts. 

They  have  limestone  in  Glan  Traun2  to  the  west,  and  in  the 
country  of  Buchanan  to  the  east.  At  Clefton,3  22  miles  in  the 
way  to  Fort  William  are  lead  mines  belonging  to  Lord  Broad- 
albin.  A  road  goes  off  from  this  road  at  the  end  of  the  Lough 
to  Killin  at  the  west  end  of  Lough  Tay,  which  is  15  miles  from 
Taymouth. — I  am,  etc. 


LETTER  XIII. 

LOCHNESS,/««<2  yk,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  2d  we  set  out  for  Inverary,  and  in 
two  miles  passed  by  the  Laird  of  McFarlin's  house4  a  very  pretty 
place  at  the  head  of  Lough  Long  which  is  a  bay  of  the  sea. 
Going  on  by  a  river  which  falls  into  it,  we  came  up  to  a  semi- 
circular seat  made  in  turf,  on  which  is  this  inscription  on  a 
stone—"  Rest  and  be  thankful,  1748."5 

We  descended  to  Glyncrow  having  passed  several  beautifull 
cascades.  We  then  came  to  a  small  Lough,  and  to  a  less 
below  it,  out  of  which  rises  a  river  that  falls  into  Glynfine. 
In  Glyncrow  I  had  observed  that  the  slaty  rocks  were  in  the 
figures  of  the  members  of  architecture,  as  on  Lough  Foyle  in 

1  The  rendezvous  and  battle-cry  of  the  Clan  MacFarlane,     It  was  also  the 
motto  of  the  chief. 

2  Glen  Fruin  limestone,  parish  of  Row. 

3  Clifton,  near  Tyndrum.  4  New  Tarbet. 

5  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  seat  with  this  inscription,  REST  AND  BE  THANKFUL. 
Stones  were  placed  to  mark  the  distances,  which  the  inhabitants  have  taken 
away,  resolved,  they  said,  '  to  have  no  new  miles.' — Dr.  Johnson's  Journey  to  the 
Western  Isles,  1773. 


GLENCROE,  INVERARAY.  65 

Ireland  and  in  some  parts  of  Errig  in  that  country ;  and  on 
this  side  of  Lough  Louman,  I  had  seen  much  of  the  white  flint 
in  patches  between  the  rocks  as  well  as  in  the  fields,  and  it  is 
in  many  parts. 

This  by  the  map  -is  the  head  of  the  river  Kinglas  which 
falls  into  Lough  Fine  at  Carndow,1  to  which  we  came,  and  went 
round  the  end  of  Lough  Fine. 

We  had  been  in  the  country  of  the  Damnii,  but  this  is  the 
country  of  the  Epidii,  Cantyre  being  called  Epidium  Promon- 
torium  as  the  Lough  or  bay  was  the  Lelannonius  Sinus. 

On  the  west  side  of  it  we  passed  by  veins  of  limestone,  one 
of  which  is  of  a  greyish  marble,  and  there  are  veins  of  slate  and 
other  stones  that  come  in  between  them. 

When  we  came  round  the  head  of  the  land  to  another  part 
of  the  bay  of  Lough  Fine,  I  was  most  agreeably  surprised  with 
the  sight  of  Inverary,  the  grand  castle 2  built  by  the  Duke  of 
Argyle,3  and  the  beautiful  hill 4  to  the  north  of  the  town  with 
two  heads,  on  one  of  which  a  turret  is  built,  and  both  covered 
with  wood.  To  the  east  of  it — a  fine  glyn,  with  a  rivulet 
running  through  it,  which  forms  a  lake,  into  which  salmon, 
sea-trouts,  and  other  fish  are  brought  up  by  the  tide.  One 
goes  over  this  river  on  a  fine  bridge  of  one  arch  adorned  with 
a  ballustrade  [built]  by  the  Duke  of  Argyle.  Inverary  is  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Lough,  which  is  24  miles  long  and  winds 
to  the  south-east. 

The  Duke  has  built  a  bridge  at  the  mouth  of  the  Aray 
with  circular  piers,  designs  to  adorn  an  old  bridge  which  is  a 
little  higher,  and  is  building  a  third  bridge  above  this.  The 
two  upper  bridges  lead  to  the  castle,  and  the  lowest  towards 
what  is  designed  to  be  the  new  town.  The  castle  is  a  most 
magnificent  Gothick  building  with  a  round  tower  at  each 
corner  about  14  feet  in  diameter  within.  The  house  is  lighted 
by  seven  windows  in  one  front  and  five  in  the  other.  In  the 
former  is  a  gallery  the  whole  length,  which  is  110  feet.  The 

1  Cairnclow  Inn,  opposite  Ardkinglass. 

2  Illustrated  in  Pennant's  Tour,  1769,  PI.  xxi.  p.  238. 

8  Archibald,  third  Duke.  This  is  the  present  castle,  begun  1744,  finished 
1761.  It  stands  on  almost  the  same  site  as  the  old  baronial  castle,  built  in  the 
time  of  the  first  Earl  (1453-1493). 

4  Duniquaich  (Dun  Chuaich}. 

E 


66  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

other  front  is  not  so  long  by  about  15  feet.  There  is  a  fosse 
round  the  house,  and  all  round  the  outside  of  that  arched  offices 
about  15  feet  wide  in  the  clear,  and  to  this  fossee  the  windows 
of  the  offices  open  under  the  house.  The  grand  floor  is  over 
that,  having  three  rooms  on  each  side,  a  hall  in  the  middle, 
with  large  Gothick  windows  rising  above  the  rest  of  the  building. 
There  is  a  stone  staircase  on  each  side  of  it,  to  which  there  is 
an  arched  opening,  so  as  to  give  some  light  to  the  rooms. 
There  is  an  attick  story,  and  rooms  over  them  for  servants  as 
in  the  roof,  lighted  by  skylights.  All  the  windows  are  turned 
with  Gothick  arches.  The  house  is  built  of  St.  Catherine^ 
stone,  which  works  like  chalk,  growing  hard  in  the  weather, 
and  is  of  a  lightish  green.  There  is  another  sort  also  which 
comes  from  another  quarry.  Some  of  the  rooms  are  finished, 
and  all  the  others  are  going  on  with  the  utmost  expedition. 
The  Duke  is  building  the  farm  offices  round  a  court  some  way 
off  to  the  south-west,  and  designs  the  stable  offices  half  a  mile 
to  the  west  to  be  built  to  the  kitchen  garden  wall.  To  the 
north  of  that  is  a  Gothick  building  on  four  arches  over  a 
mineral  well  of  steel  and  sulphur,  and  this  is  near  the  hill  on 
which  the  turret  is  built,  round  which  there  is  a  coach  way  up 
to  the  top,  and  from  it  the  castle  appears  very  grand.  The 
Duke  designs  to  make  some  additional  buildings  to  it.  To  the 
west  on  an  eminence  is  a  building  made  to  appear  like  a  ruin, 
which  is  the  dairy.  All  the  ground  to  the  west  is  finely 
planted,  the  Aray  running  through  it,  which  gives  name  to 
the  town — Inverary  (the  inlet  of  the  Aray). 

The  old  town  which  is  to  the  east  of  the  castle,  is  to  be  pulled 
down,  and  a  new  town  built  to  the  south  of  a  little  bay,  where 
the  townhouse  and  the  Inn  now  are,  between  which  there  is  to 
be  a  street l  to  the  south,  and  another  will  be  built  to  the  east  of 
them  along  the  Lough.  In  the  old  town  is  a  small  cross  adorned 
with  carvings  which  was  brought  from  I-Colm-Kill,  as  was 
another  that  is  set  up  at  Campbelltown,2  but  there  are  no 
characters  on  this. 

1  For  this  street  a  beech-tree  avenue,  a  mile  long,  was  substituted.  Duke 
Archibald  did  not  live  to  see  his  designs  carried  out. 

-  The  crosses  are  still  standing.  Dr.  Pococke's  informant  mistakingly 
venerated  those  commemorative  or  memorial  High  Crosses  as  lona  relics,  through 


INVERARAY.  67 

There  are  large  woods  to  the  south,  with  ridings  cut  through 
them,  and  a  Gothick  arch  is  built  over  a  well  in  one  part  of 
the  wood  where  a  spring  of  fine  water  runs  out  of  the  rock. 
In  another  part  a  beautifull  cascade  falls  down  the  rocks 
between  the  trees.  The  rocks  here  for  a  considerable  way  to 
the  south  and  west  are  of  a  red  granite  of  small  grains,  which 
promises  to  polish  very  finely.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Lough  is  another  stone  of  a  more  mixed  colour.  To  the  west 
of  the  great  hill  is  a  small  ridge  of  a  mountain  that  consists  of 
a  limestone. 

Mr.  Cumin,  a  very  ingenious  person  in  experimental  philo- 
sophy and  mechanics  (who,  I  have  been  since  told,  is  making 
a  clock  to  regulate  time  by  the  stars  as  well  as  sun,)  gave  me 
the  following  process  as  to  the  qualities  of  the  stone  of  St. 
Catharine,  which  appeared  to  me  to  be  much  like  the  harder 
kind  of  soapstone  in  Cornwall.  It  is  soft  when  dugg,  and  may 
be  cut  with  a  knife  ;  hardens  in  the  air ;  if  burnt  in  a  moderate 
fire  it  becomes  almost  impenetrable,  and  loses  near  a  third  of 
its  weight,  but  if  the  heat  is  encreased  it  melts  into  a  substance 
like  bottle  glass ;  if  oyl  is  rubbed  on  the  stone,  it  becomes 
black ;  burning  turns  it  brown ;  rubbed  with  Sperma  Ceti  it 
looks  like  a  deep  coloured  serpentine. — I  am,  etc. 


LETTER  XIV. 

ISLE  OF  MULL,/#M<?  jth,  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  4th  I  set  out  westward  from 
Inverary  and  went  by  the  Millitary  road  which  is  continued 
five  miles  to  the  west  on  the  side  of  the  hill  over  the  Aray, 
where  in  all  parts  the  Duke  is  enclosing  the  woods  with  a  dry 
wall,  and  cover'd  with  sods.  They  have  a  great  number  of 

ignorance  of  their  local  historic  value  and  association.  They  date  about  1500. 
For  a  description,  etc. ,  of  the  Inveraray  Cross,  see  Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones  of  Scot. , 
vol.  ii.  p.  22.  The  Campbeltown  Cross  is  II  feet  high,  19  inches  broad,  4  inches 
thick.  On  a  square  panel  on  the  shaft  of  the  cross  is  the  following  inscription  : 
HEC  :  EST  :  CRVX  :  DOMINI  :  YVARI  :  M  :  HEACHYRNA  :  QVODAM  :  RECTORIS  : 
DE:KvL  :  REGAN  :Ex:DoMiNi  :ANDREE:NATI  :Eivs  :  RECTORIS  :DE:KiL  : 
COMAN  :  Qvi  :  HANC  :  CRVCE  :  FIBRE  :  FACIE  :  BAT.  An  excellent  cast  of  this 
cross  is  a  prominent  object  in  the  Museum  of  the  Soc.  of  Ant.,  Edinburgh. 


68  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Roe  Deer 1  here  which  are  about  as  big  as  an  Antelope — but 
not  so  delicate,  as  I  think  being  longer  behind.  They  are 
great  destroyers  of  the  growth  of  young  trees — as  well  as  hares. 
I  came  to  bad  road  for  about  two  miles  and  a  half  over  the 
hill,  till  we  arrived  near  to  Lough  Awe,  which  lake  is  24  miles 
long  and  fresh  water.  We  went  two  miles  to  the  south  to 
Port  Sonachan  ferry.  Here  the  hills  are  common  whin  or  fire 
stone.  Towards  the  north  end  of  the  lake  is  Castle  Culhorn  2 
on  an  Island  which  was  the  first  seat  of  the  family  of  Broad- 
albin ;  and  eight  miles  to  the  south  is  Inch  Chonnel  Castle  3  on 
another  Isle  the  first  seat  of  the  family  of  Argyle.  Where  we 
turned  to  the  south  at  Ardbrache 4  they  lately  found  a  vault 
with  an  urn  and  bones  in  it. 

We  crossed  this  Lough  in  a  Boat,  which  holds  only  two 
large  horses,  and  they  put  Boughs  at  the  bottom  to  preserve 
the  boat  which  is  slight ;  it  is  about  a  mile  over ;  we  went  on 
six  miles  to  Lough  Etive,  where  a  river  from  Lough  Awe  falls 
into  it  which  is  called  Inver  Awe  (the  outlet  of  the  Awe).  I 
crossed  this  river  to  see  what  I  took  to  be  a  camp  which  had 
something  of  the  air  of  a  Roman  fortification,  but  it  was 
occasioned  only  by  the  straight  sides  of  the  Bank  on  the 
eminence,  and  there  was  no  sign  of  any  entrenchment  any 
other  way,  so  that  if  any  fortification  it  was  probably  British. 

Over  this  is  Cruhaun  5  Mountain  something  less  than  1445 
yards  which  is  the  height  of  Benevis 5  near  Fort  William. 

We  returned  and  crossed  over  Lough  Etive   about  half  a 

1  In  the  MS.  on  the  page  opposite  to  this  reference  to   Deer  are  two  notes 
written  by  different  hands.     '  I  made  great  enquiries  about  the  Roe-Bucks  in  this 
and  other  parts  of  the  Highlands,  but  could  never  hear  of  them  being  plentifull 
anywhere  except  near  Castle  Grant.     The  Red  Deer  of  the  Highlands  are  by  no 
means  so  large  as  those  in  the  English  parks — some  of  these  may  be  seen  in  the 
D.  of  Athole's  Park  at  Blair.— [Initialled]  D.  B.'    See  note,  p.  69. 

The  following  is  evidently  a  rejoinder  :  '  Roes  in  vast  plenty  near  Invercauld 
and  all  parts  of  the  wooded  country  of  Inverness.  — [Initialled]  T.  P. '  Can  this  note 
be  by  Thomas  Pennant  ?  Vast  plenty  is  a  frequent  expression  of  his,  and  he  may 
have  had  access  to  Bishop  Pococke's  MSS.  when  preparing  his  Tours  for  the  press. 
See  note  5,  p.  85  ;  also  note  3,  p.  86. 

2  Kilchurn  or  Caolchurn  Castle,  the  property  of  the  Marquis  of  Breadalbane. 
The  ruins  are  based  upon  a  rock,  which  tradition  says  was  once  an  island. 

3  Ardchonal  Castle,  or  Inischonel,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Lords  of  Loch  Awe. 

4  Ardbrecknish  (Rock  Hill). 

5  The  respective  altitudes  of  Ben  Nevis,  Ben  Cruachan,  and  Ben  Lomond  are 


LOCH  AWE,  LOCH  ETIVE.  69 

mile  broad  in  the  same  kind  of  boat.  Here  the  Rocks  are 
grey  granate.  We  had  to  the  right  beautifull  wood  on  the 
rocky  hills  and  in  about  3  miles  came  to  Ardchattin,  Mr. 
Campbell's  house  built  on  the  site  of  an  old  priory  of  Cistercians 
of  Vallis  Catrium.1  The  west  end  only  of  the  Choir  is  remain- 
ing and  is  Saxon  architecture.  The  other  part  is  new  modelled. 
It  was  founded  by  Duncan  MacLoud  from  whom  the  McDouglas's 
of  Lorn  are  descended.  It  was  annexed  to  the  Bishoprick  of 
Argyle  by  Jas.  Vlth  in  1617.  In  1573  Jno.  Campbell  the 
Prior  was  made  Bishop  of  the  Isles. 

On  a  hill  over  this  priory  is  the  Old  Parish  Church  which 
on  account  of  the  saint  it  is  dedicated  to  is  had  in  great  venera- 
tion. His  name  was  [MJHoiden  or  as  'tis  pronounc'd  Voidan 
being  call'd  Bailim  Voidan.2 

We  went  on  in  the  same  beautifull  country  having  Lough 
Etive  to  the  right,  and  came  to  the  end  of  the  mountains 
which  terminate  in  a  perpendicular  rock  exactly  like  the 
ancient  Anxur  now  called  Terracina  in  the  way  from  Rome  to 
Naples.  This  rock  was  called  Dun  Vallin  Re  (the  Hill  of  the 
King's  town)  and  by  the  Cromwelian  soldiers  Craig  Nuke,  and 
this  is  the  entrance,  so  that  ancient  city  rock  seems  to  have 
been  called  Vallin  or  Ballin  Re  (the  City  of  the  King).  In  the 
new  map  of  Scotland  it  is  called  Berigonium,  and  seem'd  to  have 
been  anciently  the  Chief  City  in  Scotland,  and  I  was  told  that 
Buchanan  gives  it  that  name.  Cambden  calls  it  Beregonium,3 
a  Castle  wherein  the  Courts  of  Justice  were  anciently  kept,  but 
what  foundation  there  is  for  this  name  I  cannot  form  any 

4406,  3611,  and  3192  feet.  In  the  MS.  the  following  note  has  been  written  : 
'  I  cannot  conceive  that  Crohaun  Mountain  is  of  this  height  as  I  was  very  near  it. 
It  seems  extraordinary  that  Bishop  Pocock  should  not  have  taken  notice  of  Ben 
Lomond,  which  is  directly  opposite  to  Tarbet,  where  he  appears  to  have  been. 
It  is  certainly  the  and  Mountain  of  the  Highlands,  and  I  never  heard  any  other 
than  Ben  nevis  compared  to  it. — [Initialled]  D.  B.'  See  notes,  pp.  63,  68,  113. 

1  Vallis  Caulium.  The  priory  was  founded  in  1231  by  Duncan  M'Coull, 
supposed  ancestor  of  the  Lords  of  Lorn — MacDougalls. 

-  Baile-Mhaodain,  church  of  Bal-maodan  or  Modan.  Abbot  or  Bishop  Modan 
flourished  early  in  the  sixth  century.  Several  churches  were  dedicated  to  him. 

3  '  The  famous  city  of  Beregonium  was  situated  between  two  hills,  one  called 
Dun  Macsnichan,  "  the  hill  of  Snachan's  son,"  and  the  other,  much  superior  in 
height,  is  named  Dun  bhail  an  righ,  "  the  hill  of  the  king's  town."  A  street 
paved  with  common  stones  running  from  the  foot  of  the  one  hill  to  the  other  is 
still  called  Straid  mharagaid,  "  the  market  street ; "  and  another  place,  at  a  little 


70  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

judgment.  This  rock  consists  of  large  pebbles  and  stones 
cemented  together,  and  there  seemed  to  me  to  be  some  Iron 
ore  in  a  sort  of  Dust  between  them.  Just  within  it  is  the 
Church  dedicated  to  Saint  Columbus  and  being  called  Kill1 
gives  name  to  the  Hamlet  near  it. 

A  quarter  of  an  English  measured  mile  to  the  west  is  a 
Rocky  hill  extending  a  furlong  from  South  to  North  and  close 
to  the  Sea,  this  is  called  the  Dun  McSneam 2  (the  Fortress  of 
McSneam),  all  over  it  are  marks  of  the  foundations  of  Buildings. 
In  the  Castle,  etc.,  they  show  the  place  where  the  well  was,  and 
it  is  now  so  moist,  that  Flaggs  grow  about  it.  From  the  other 
Rock  to  this  is  an  Elevated  Bank  which  is  supposed  to  have 
been  a  street,  and  is  called  the  Salt  market,  there  seem  to  have 
been  houses  towards  the  sea  and  to  the  north ;  there  being  a 
sort  of  terrace  on  each  side ;  and  to  the  north  is  a  small  bog 
which  might  have  been  a  pond  to  supply  the  town  with  water. 
There  is  a  long  stone  on  the  south  side  of  it.  Before  I  came 
to  the  first  rock  called  Ballin  Re  I  saw  two  Cams  3  consisting  of 
heaps  of  stones.  From  the  north  end  of  this  on  the  edge  of  a 
bog  are  signs  of  another  street  extending  about  a  furlong  to 
the  west,  towards  another  rocky  hill,  and  this  is  called  the 
meal  Market,  which  might  be  a  suburb  of  the  town.  The 
sea  seems  to  have  left  this  place,  for  the  ground  between  this 

distance,  goes  by  the  name  of  Straid  namin,  "the  meal  street."  About  1780  a 
man,  cutting  peats  in  a  moss  between  two  hills,  found  one  of  the  wooden  pipes 
that  conveyed  the  water  from  the  one  hill  to  the  other  at  a  depth  of  5  feet  below 
the  surface.' — Old Stat.  Ac.,  'Ardchattan,'  vol.  vi.  p.  180. 

For  the  Beregonium  theory  see  the  late  Dr.  R.  Angus  Smith's  charming 
dialogue  Loch  Etive  and  the  Sons  of  Uisnach,  1879.  'We  know  of  no  Bere- 
gonium  before  Boece,  and  whether  it  is  connected  with  jfcrz'gonium  in  Galloway 
or  not  is  not  quite  proved.  .  .  .  The  evidence  for  Beregonium  breaks  down,  and 
the  destruction  of  the  civilisation  follows'  (pp.  137,  138). 

1  Kilcolmkill  or  Kiel.     Traces  only  of  church  dedicated  to  Columba  are  all 
that  can  be  seen. 

2  The  Dun  of  the  sons  of  Uisneach. 

3  '  It  would  be  endless  to  enumerate   all   the   Druidical  monuments  in  the 
parish  of  Ardchattan.     Many  cairns  and  heaps  of  stones  are  to  be  seen  ;  one,  in 
particular,  near  the  centre  of  a  deep  moss  about  3  or  4  miles  in  circumference. 
In  different  places  are  stones  rising  12  feet  above  the  surface,  all  of  them  one  single 
stone,  and,  at  a  small  distance,  a  number  of  large  stones  from  20  to  22  feet  in 
length,  of  an  oval  figure.'     By  Rev.  Ludovick  Grant;  Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  vi.  p. 
1 80.     Dun  Macsnichan  or  Z>z<«-wac-Sniachan  is  held  to  be  identical  with  the 
Selma  of  Ossian.     This  whole  district  is  full  of  Ossianic  legendary  interest. 


BEREGONIUM,  LOCHNELL,  OBAN.      71 

last  street  and  the  sea  consists  of  such  pebbles  as  are  on  the 
beach.  They  have  a  tradition  that  the  Scots  from  Ireland 
landed  here. 

From  this  place  to  the  passage  over  to  Sr  Duncan  Campbels, 
it  is  about  a  mile,  but  when  the  Tyde  is  in,  it  is  a  mile  further 
to  the  West.  This  seat  is  situated  on  a  head  of  Land  a 
Peninsula,  which  extends  to  the  South  about  a  mile  and  is 
divided  by  little  vales  into  four  or  five  long  narrow  hills  covered 
with  wood.  The  Highest  of  them  is  to  the  West  on  which  on 
a  rock  covered  also  with  wood  and  projecting  to  the  East, 
Lady  Campbel  built  a  square  tower  in  1754  consisting  of  four 
arches  on  a  basement  formed  into  three  steps ;  it  is  about 
fifty  feet  high,  and  a  wall  is  built  on  each  side  between  the 
piers  with  a  semi-circular  window  in  the  top  of  each,  to 
give  light  to  the  staircase.  There  is  a  fine  prospect  from 
it  of  the  Isles  to  the  South,  and  of  the  mountains  to  the 
North,  and  it  has  a  most  beautifull  effect  as  one  approaches 
from  the  East.  At  this  Tower  we  saw  .  the  Isle  of  Kerera 
where  there  is  a  fine  harbour,  on  which,  at  Oban  on  the 
Continent  opposite  to  this  Island  they  are  building  a  Custom 
house  to  facilitate  the  export  of  herrings,  and  other  Salt  fish 
and  provision,  the  Custom  house  being  now  at  Fort  William. 
South  east  of  that  we  saw  the  Isle  of  Scarba  between  which 
and  Jura  is  the  gulph  of  Cory  Beckan,1  where  there  is  a  whirl- 
pool which  has  an  effect  on  ships  and  the  common  people  say 
they  have  been  sunk  in  it. 

To  the  west  of  Jura,  Colonsa,  where  there  was  an  Abbey  of 
Canons  Regular  brought  from  Holyrood  House,  and  founded 
by  the  Lords  of  the  Isles.  At  the  Isle  of  Eysdal,2  is  a  slate 
quarry,  and  on  the  Continent  near  it  at  Ardmaddy  is  the 
quarry  of  White  and  Liver  coloured  marble,  belonging  to  the 
Earl  of  Broadalbin,  which  I  have  mentioned  before. 

Sir  Duncan's  place  was  called  Ardmuckmish3  (the  height  of 
the  morning)  [?]  because  the  morning  sun  comes  on  it,  but  Sir 
Duncan  has  given  it  the  name  of  Loughnell  from  a  part  of  his 
Estate  which  is  near  it.  This  peninsula  is  much  dressed  by 

1  Coryvreckan.  2  Easdale. 

3  Ardmucknish  or  Lochnell  House.  It  was  greatly  added  to  by  Sir  Duncan's 
son,  General  Campbell.  In  1850  it  was  destroyed  by  fire. 


72  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Sir  Duncan  who  has  cultivated  the  land  and  preserved  the 
wood.  He  has  a  very  good  well  finished  house,  and  a  staircase 
and  back  stair  very  well  contrived  at  the  back  of  it  in  a  bow 
which  consists  of  five  sides ;  nor  must  the  Hermit's  garden  be 
forgot  among  the  Curiosities  of  this  place.  I  here  saw  a  head 
and  horns l  which  I  take  to  be  of  the  Urus  I  have  seen  abroad, 
and  is  mentioned  by  Caesar  in  his  Commentaries ;  this  Creature 
being  a  native  of  the  furthermost  part  of  Germany,  Poland, 
and  Hungary.  It  was  found  with  the  bones  in  a  bog  at 
Lismore  Island,  two  of  the  bones  of  such  an  animal  found  in 
another  bog  there  I  took  with  me.  In  Lismore  was  the  seat 
of  the  Bishop  of  Argyleshire,  so  that  probably  some  Bishop 
having  seen  this  animal  when  he  was  going  to  Rome,  might 
bring  two  of  them  to  Lismore. 

I  saw  here  the  Area  Theophrasti2  which  bears  a  round 
fruit,  and  is  falsely  called  the  Service  tree. — I  am,  etc. 

LETTER  XV. 

I-CoLM-KiLL,  June  the  %th  1760. 

DEAR  MADAM, — On  the  6th  I  sent  my  horses  to  Fort 
William  about  24  miles  and  went  by  water  about  two  Leagues 
to  Dun  Stafnige3  (Stephen's  hill  or  Fort)  where  there  is  a 
Castle,  formerly  a  palace  of  the  Kings  of  Scotland,  which  dis- 
putes antiquity  with  Inverlochy.  It  is  built  round  the  edge  of 
an  irregular  high  perpendicular  Rock,  with  Towers,  which  are 

1  The  Bos  primigenius,  described  minutely,  with  measurements,  in  article 
'Lismore,'  Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  xxi.  p.  426. — See  Proc.  Roy.  Phy.  Soc.,  vol.  ii. 
p.  112. 

-  Pyrus  Aria,  Ehrh.,  White  Beam.  '  Sorbus  sylvestris,  Aria  Theophrasti 
dicta.  The  wild  Service,  called  Aria. ' — Parkinson's  Herbal  ( Theatrum  Botani- 
cuni),  London,  1640,  p.  1421. 

3  Dunstaffnage  Castle.  For  particular  plans  and  views  of  the  castle  and 
chapel,  see  Castellated  Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887,  by  MacGibbon  and  Ross,  vol.  i. 
85-93-  The  legendary  history  appears  to  have  been  gathered  from  Camden 
and  Buchanan.  The  description  corresponds  very  closely  with  that  given  by  Mr. 
Pennant  (Tour  1772,  pt.  i.  p.  409),  who  was  also  entertained  twelve  years  after 
Dr.  Pococke  by  the  same  proprietor.  Both  travellers  deemed  the  '  figure  of 
ivory '  worthy  of  drawings,  doubtless  after  being  duly  impressed  with  its  supposed 
antiquity  and  object — that  of  commemorating  the  coronation  chair  of  Scotland, 
or  as  a  memorial  of  a  particular  coronation.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  it 
was  simply  a  chessman.  See  p.  75. 


DUNSTAFFNAGE. 


74  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

round  within.  The  way  to  this  Castle  is  by  a  Drawbridge,  and 
the  appartments  were  to  the  South.  It  belongs  to  a  Campbell, 
whose  family  has  enjoyed  it  for  many  years.  He  showed  us  a 
very  curious  piece  of  Antiquity  found  not  a  great  many  years 
agoe  in  the  Castle  ;  It  is  a  figure  of  Ivory  sitting  in  a  Chair  as 
supposed  of  a  King  of  Scotland,  about  four  Inches  and  a  half 
long  with  a  Crown  on  the  Head  and  a  beard,  the  robes  hang 
rather  clumsily  ;  a  drawing  of  the  figure  and  chair  are  on  the 
other  side  ;  what  is  very  particular  his  hands  are  laid  on  his 
Knees,  as  in  the  statue  of  Memnon,1  and  as  the  Grand  Signior 
sits  at  this  day  when  any  one  goes  to  Audience.  The  tradition 
is  that  this  Castle  was  built  by  King  Ewin  100  years  before 
Christ.  A  view  of  it  is  here  seen  [see  p.  73].  They  have  a 
red  stone  here  which  seems  to  have  iron  in  it. 

To  the  south  of  the  Castle  is  the  Chapel  in  which  they  say 
many  of  the  Kings  of  Scotland  are  buried  in  a  vault,  there 
being  no  memorial  of  them.  It  seems  to  be  an  old  Church  tho" 
it  has  been  altered.  About  30  yards  from  this  Church  is  a 
perpendicular  rock,  it  may  be  20  feet  high  which  turns  to  the 
south  near  opposite  to  the  west  end  of  the  Chapel.  If  any  one 
goes  about  20  yards  behind  this  rock  to  the  south  and  directs 
his  voice  to  the  South  wall  of  the  Church,  and  you  stand  at  the 
rock  about  opposite  to  the  middle  of  this  wall,  though  the 
person  speaks  low  yet  you  hear  his  voice  by  the  Echoe  and  by 
the  Echoe  alone,  and  it  seems  as  if  it  came  from  the  Church. 

We  went  on  and  saw  Castle  Dunolly  two  miles  to  the 
South  which  is  the  Castle  of  the  Physitian,  where  as  they  say 
the  Physitian  of  the  Kings  of  Scotland  lived ;  a  little  to  the 
south  of  which  is  Oban  where  the  Custom  House  is  building. 

The  wind  turned  so  that  we  could  not  get  to  Ahan  Craig  2  in 
Mull,  and  therefore  we  went  to  Douart  Castle,3  an  oblong 
square  building  of  which  nothing  is  remaining  but  the  outer 
walls  ;  it  is  strongly  situated  on  a  rock  over  the  water.  Here 
is  a  barrack  for  one  company  of  soldiers  and  there  is  one 
always  here  on  Duty.  We  went  three  miles  round  Lough 
Don  to  Ahan  Craig. 

1  Bishop  Pococke  saw  this  statue  during  his  Eastern  travels.     It  is  described 
and  figured  in  the  first  vol.  of  his  great  work,  A  Description  of  the  East  and 
some  other  Countries ',  'Observations  on  Egypt,'  I743>  P-  IO2>  PI-  xxxvi. 

2  Auchenacraig.  3  Duart. 


DUNSTAFFNAGE,  DUNOLLY. 


75 


A  King  of  Scotland  (?).' 


Back  and  Side  View  of  the  Chair. 


1  More  probably  an  antique  chessman.     See  note  3,  p.  72. 


76  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

On  the  7th  we  set  out  on  the  Horses  of  the  Island  for 
I-Colm-Kill ;  these  beasts  are  small  and  never  shod,  very  sure 
footed  in  bad  road,  but  they  say  not  so  sure  on  plain  ground 
however  I  found  them  excellent  Horses  in  all  roads  ;  They  are 
very  hardy  and  go  through  great  labour,  and  are  fed  only  on 
grass,  they  are  indeed  hard  mouthed,  turn  only  with  a  stick 
directed  to  their  head,  and  sell  for  about  £4t  apiece  ;  they  send 
300  of  them  most  years  out  of  the  Island. 

The  miles l  are  double  the  length  of  the  English,  and  they 
seem  to  measure  their  miles  by  straight  lines  on  the  map, 
whereas  the  roads  wind  much  from  this  part  to  the  place 
opposite  to  I-Colm-Kill.  They  compute  it  24  miles,  and  it  is 
certainly  double. 

In  three  miles  we  came  to  Lough  Spelve  which  is  a  good 
harbour  and  winds  so  that  the  opening  is  not  seen,  which 
extends  to  the  South  East. 

We  then  went  two  miles  through  a  pleasant  wood  of  Hazel, 
Birch,  Quicken,  and  Alder  ;  and  a  mile  further  having  heathy 
hills  on  both  sides  and  the  same  turning  to  the  South,  and 
came  to  three  lakes  one  over  another,  out  of  which  rises  a 
rivulet.2  In  these  parts  are  great  plenty  of  Mineral  waters 
which  seem  to  be  Iron.  We  then  turned  round  by  degrees  to 
the  west  and  passed  a  lake  with  a  small  Island  in  it,  incircled 
with  stones  ;  out  of  this  rises  another  water  ;  and  we  had  near 
a  mile  of  bad  road  into  that  plain  in  which  Loch  Sekreidan  3  is 
situated,  which  is  a  very  large  bay  of  the  sea  with  some  good 
harbours  in  it.  We  came  to  Rossal  at  the  head  of  this  Bay  ; 
from  this  part  a  road  goes  to  Aras  4  eight  miles,  being  on  the 
East  side  on  the  Sound  of  Mull,  where  there  is  an  old  Gothick 
tower  of  an  extraordinary  figure  with  very  thick  walls. 

I  was  told  that  opposite  to  Mr.  Campbells  old  house, 
between  it  and  the  sea,  on  the  right-hand,  to  any  one  who  is 
on  that  road  to  I-Colm-Kill,  is  a  low  rock  with  a  hollow  Cleft 
in  the  top  in  form  of  a  Cross  directing  nearly  to  the  four 
cardinal  points  of  the  heavens  in  which  if  a  Mariners  Compass 

1  The  Scots  mile  was  320  lineal  falls  (each  =  6  ells),  so  that  the  Scots  mile 
=  1*123,  or  ij  English  mile. 

2  River  Lussa,  which  falls  into  Loch  Spelve. 

3  Loch  Scriden.  4  Aros  Castle. 


MULL.  77 

was  placed  to  any  of  these  points,  it  turned  to  the  contrary 
point,  and  when  placed  on  the  middle  it  veered  about  and  did 
not  settle,  tho1  at  four  feet  Distance  above  it.  The  rock  has 
been  lately  broke  and  I  could  not  be  enformed  if  this  has  made 
any  alteration.  These  are  the  words  of  the  Description  that 
was  given  me.  It  is  probable  that  there  is  Iron  Ore  or  load- 
stone here. 

From  Aras  it  is  12  miles  to  Achen  Craig  a  good  road,  Salt 
Galas  hill  being  half  way  :  from  Arras  to  Knock  is  three  miles, 
and  from  that  to  Rossal  we  were  at,  5  miles  :  At  Rossal  is  a 
Druid  Temple  which  seems  to  have  consisted  of  seven  stones, 
six  of  them  remaining  at  five  yards  distance,  and  there  are  two 
at  the  Distance  of  two  yards  to  the  west,  and  seven  yards 
apart  as  opposite  to  the  supposed  entrance  at  the  West.  They 
are  from  five  to  eight  feet  high,  the  two  lowest  being  to  the 
East ;  three  of  the  stones  in  the  Circle  are  lying  on  the  ground, 
they  are  of  the  light  blue  stone  with  white  specks,  and  rather  of 
a  soft  kind,  in  which  the  Country  to  the  East  abounds. 

Here  we  dined,  and  went  on,  having  the  Bay  to  the  right, 
and  low  hills  with  some  wood  on  them  to  the  left,  from  which 
several  beautifull  cascades  fall  down  after  rain  in  narrow  glyns 
of  rock  and  wood,  we  came  in  seven  miles  to  Ardschrinish  to 
the  house  of  Mr.  Neill  MacLeod l  the  Minister,  a  very  amiable 
man  of  the  Isle  of  Skey  :  and  came  three  more  to  Benissan  2  where 
I  lay.  Here  they  have  very  fine  Oysters. 

On  the  8th  we  went  3  miles  to  Ferryport,  and  were  rowed 
over  to  I-Colm-Kill.  I  observed  for  about  two  miles  the  rocks 
are  all  of  a  bright  red  granite  ;  and  towards  the  little  Islands 
and  rocks  near  the  Shoar.  I  also  took  notice  of  several  hills 
about  Ardscrinish  which  resembled  the  Giants  Causeway  in 
irregular  Pillars,  mostly  of  four  sides,  with  several  Joynts,  and 
are  much  like  the  rocks  between  Ballintory  and  the  Giants 
Causeway  in  Ireland,  and  it  would  be  curious  to  know  if  there 
is  anything  of  this  kind  in  Ila  which  is  directly  opposite  to  the 
Causeway. — I  am,  etc. 

1  Rev.  Neil  Macleod,  described  by  Dr.  Johnson  as  being  '  the  clearest  headed 
man  that  he  had  met  with  in  the  Western  Island?. ' — Fasti  Ecc.  Scot. ,  pt.  v.  p.  84. 
3  Bunessan  or  Bonessan. 


78  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LETTER  XVI. 

ISLE  OF  LISMORE,/W«£  loth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — At  I-Colm  Kill  I  met  Mr.  Campbell  the 
Bailif  of  the  Isle  of  Terri-I,  who  with  great  complaisance 
attended  me  in  seeing  everything. 

I-Colm  Kill  is  about  three  miles  long  and  a  mile  broad. 
Bede  informs  us  that  in  the  year  605  Columba  a  priest  and 
Abbot  famous  for  the  profession  of  Monkery  came  out  of 
Ireland  into  Britain  to  instruct  those  highland  Picts  in  the 
Christian  religion,  who  by  the  high  and  fearfull  ridges  of  the 
Mountains  were  sequestered  from  the  Southern  Countries  of 
the  Picts.  He  had  founded  a  Monastery  in  Ireland,1  called 
Dearmach  (The  field  of  Oaks)  because  it  was  in  a  wood.  As  he 
succeeded,  Bridius  the  King  of  these  Picts  gave  him  the  Island 
Hii  or  I  or  Y,  that  is  the  Island  now  called  I-Colm  Kill ;  it  is 
called  lona  if  I  mistake  not  by  Buchanan  ;  he  founded  a 
Monastery  here  and  was  himself  the  first  Abbot.  Bede  says 
that  his  monks  differed  from  the  Church  of  Rome  in  the  keep- 
ing of  Easter,  and  in  the  Tonsure  till  the  year  716.  They 
were  at  first  regular  Canons,  but  the  Monastery  being  destroyed 
by  the  Danes,  it  afterwards  was  inhabited  by  the  Benedictines 
of  the  order  of  Cluny,2  who  not  being  capable  of  holding  Cures, 
those  which  they  had  in  Galloway  were  given  to  the  Canons  of 
Holy  Rood  house  in  Edinburgh.  This  Abbey  was  annexed  to 
the  Bishoprick  of  Argyle  by  James  the  vi.  in  1617.  The 
Scotch  Historians  say  that  St.  Columb  crowned  Aiden  the  49th 
King  of  the  Scots.  The  Abbot  of  this  Monastery  seems  to 

1  '  Durrow,  anciently  Dairmagh,  paraphrased  by  Adamnan  as  Roberti  Campas, 
or  plain  of  oaks,  was  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  important  of  St.  Columba's 
foundations  in  Ireland.     It  is  stated  in  the  Annals  of  Tighernach  that  Aedh,  son 
of  Brendan,  King  of  Teffia,  gave  Darmach  to  Columcille.     Aedh  became  lord  of 
Teffia  in  553,  and  St.  Columba  removed  to  lona  in  563,  so  that  the  monastery 
must  have  been  founded  between  these  dates.' — Anderson's  Scot,  in  Early  Christ. 
Times,  1881,  p.  144.      Vide  Reeves's  Adamnan,  p.  23. 

2  Dr.  Skene,  in  his  critical  Notes  on  the  History  of  the  Ruins  of  lona,  con- 
clusively argues  that  this  could  not  be  a  Cluniac  monastery,  but  belonged  to 
another  order  of  reformed  Benedictines,  viz.  those  called  Tyronenses. — Proc.  Soc. 
af  Ant.  Scot.,  vol.  x.  p.  200.     See  also  Dr.  Skene's  chapters  on  the  Monastic 
Church  of  lona  in  Celtic  Scotland,  vol.  ii. 


IONA.  79 

have  exercised  Archiepiscopal  Jurisdiction  over  the  Bishops  of 
Scotland  or  at  least  of  this  part  of  it,  for  all  of  them  being 
sent  from  this  Monastery,  'tis  supposed  they  did  not  look  on 
themselves  to  be  freed  from  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  Abbot 
when  they  were  made  Bishops ;  and  if  any  of  them  had 
not  been  Bishops,  it  would  be  a  superiority  of  their  Juris- 
diction and  not  of  Order,  as  A-Bp.  Usher  observes,  who 
cites  the  Annals  of  Ulster  to  prove  that  a  Bishop  always 
resided  in  Hy  ;  and  Lloyd  proves  that  Columba  was  ordained 
Bishop  of  Meath  by  Finlan,  so  that  at  first  sight  it  seems  as  if 
Bede  was  mistaken  in  saying  that  their  first  Teacher  was  not  a 
Bishop,  and  the  Saxon  Chronicle  that  there  must  be  in  Hy  an 
Abbot x  and  not  a  Bishop.  From  History  we  collect  that  the 
Bishop  of  the  Isles  resided  in  the  Island  of  Hy,  and  that 
before  St.  Columb  founded  the  Monastery,  even  in  the  year 
360,  'tis  said  that  the  Bishop  of  the  Isles  had  three  places  of 
Residence,  the  Isle  of  Hy,  Man,  and  Bute,  but  it  is  to  be 
questioned  whether  at  the  same  time.  It  is  also  affirmed  that 
the  Cathedral  of  the  Isle  of  Hy  being  dedicated  to  our  Saviour, 
in  greek  Soter,  the  See  took  its  name  from  it  Sotorensis2 
and  Sodorensis,  and  I  have  read  or  heard  that  this  part  of  the 
Island  is  or  was  called  Sodor. 

The  Isle  of  Man  was  subject  to  Scotland,  but  the  Danes 
and  Norwegians  about  1065  taking  advantage  of  the  troubles 
occasioned  by  Macbeth's  usurpation,  conquered  the  Isle  of  Man, 
and  sett  petty  Kings  over  it.  In  1097  Donald  Bruce3  the  usurper 

1  'That  island  [lona]  has  for  its  ruler  an  abbot,  who  is  a  priest,  to  whose 
direction  all  the  province,  and  even  the  bishops,  contrary  to  the  usual  method,  are 
subject,  according  to  the  example  of  their  first  teacher,  who  was  not  a  bishop,  but 
a  priest  and  monk.' — Bede's  Eccles.  Hist.,  Book  ill.  Chap,  iv.,  Bohn's  3d  ed., 
p.  1 14.  '  Now  in  li  there  must  ever  be  an  abbot,  and  not  a  bishop  ;  and  all  the 
Scottish  bishops  ought  to  be  subject  to  him,  because  Columba  was  an  abbot 
and  not  a  bishop.' — Anglo-Saxon  Chronicle,  Anno  565,  Bohn's  3d  ed.,  p. 
313.  The  confusion  in  Dr.  Pococke's  mind  seems  to  have  arisen  from  failing 
to  recognise  the  distinction  between  a  territorial  and  a  non-territorial  episcopacy, 
distinctions  which  have  given  rise  to  much  controversy  on  Church  government. 
See  Goodall's  Pref.  to  Keith's  Cat.  of  Scot.  Bishops;  Bishop  Lloyd's  Hist.  Ace. 
of  Church  Government. 

(s*  2  Should  be  Soter  and  Soterensis,  the  derivation  being  not  Greek  but  Norse. 
The  Norsemen  divided  the  Western  Islands  into  Nordreys  and  Surdreys — the 
northern  and  southern  islands. 

3  Donald  vn.,  surnamed  Bane. 


80 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


IONA.  81 

gave  the  Western  Isles  to  them  for  assisting  him  ;  they  brought 
the  See  to  Man,  and  then  they  were  called  Bishops  of  Sodor 
and  Man.  In  about  200  years  the  Scots  recovered  the  Western 
Isles,  and  Alexander  the  3d  in  1266  the  Isle  of  Man.  In  the 
time  of  David  Bruce,  Edward  the  3d  took  that  Isle,  and  soon 
after  there  was  a  distinct  Bishop  of  Man,  who  still  retained  the 
title  of  Bishop  of  Soder  and  Man  ;  and  the  other  Bishops  had 
the  title  of  Bishops  of  the  Isles. 

Wymundus  was  the  first  Norwegian  Bishop  in  1113,  and 
became  Suffragan  to  the  A-Bp.  of  York  who  consecrated  him. 
There  having  been  13  before  him,  a  Bishop  of  Sodor  residing 
at  the  Isle  of  Hy.  There  were  14  Bishops  before  the  Scots 
reconquered  the  Isle  of  Man,  having  as  said  a  little  before,  con- 
quered the  Western  Isles.  From  this  to  the  conquest  of  Man 
by  the  English  there  were  six  Bishops.  Then  the  Bishops  of 
the  other  Isles  were  called  Bishops  of  Soder,  which  name  was  in 
no  long  time  after  lost  in  the  title  of  Bishop  of  the  Isles. 
However  on  the  whole  from  Bede's  authority  it  seems  as  if  the 
Abbots  and  Bishops  were  distinct  persons,  tho'  some  of  the 
Abbots  might  be  Bishops,  and  that  the  Abbots  had  for  some 
time  had  a  superiority,  as  mentioned,  of  Jurisdiction,  and  were 
invested  with  all  the  privileges  of  an  Arch-Bishop,  as  the 
Guardian  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem  is  at  this  day. 

The  Church,  as  I  was  informed  by  one  who  measured  it,  is 
144  feet  long.  In  the  quire  are  three  arches  on  each  side,  the 
Capital  of  one  of  the  pillars  is  adorned  with  Gryphens  and 
other  beasts  something  in  the  roman  taste,  another  with 
monkish  conceits,  and  in  the  north  side  is  a  Capital  adorned 
with  Laurel  leaves,  it  is  of  an  octagon  form  on  a  round  pillar. 
In  the  transcept  on  the  Saxon  round  pillars  divided  by  fillets 
into  four  equal  parts,  are  figures  on  the  Capitals  in  the  same 
monkish  taste,  on  one  Adam  and  Eve,  on  a  second  the  Devil 
tempting  Eve,  on  another  the  salutation,  and  on  a  fourth  a 
man  driving  a  Cow  and  the  Devil  behind  him.  (A  view  of  the 
South  Side  of  the  Church  is  here  seen.)1  To  the  north  of  the 

1  For  the  architecture  of  the  Abbey  Church  of  lona,  see  Messrs.  Bucklers' 
illustrations  and  measurements  in  '  The  Cathedral  of  lona,  and  the  Early  Celtic 
Church  and  Mission  of  St  Columba,'  by  the  Right  Rev.  Alex.  Ewing,  D.C.L., 
Bishop  of  Argyll  and  the  Isles.  1866  and  1872. 

F 


82  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Choir  is  a  vestry.  The  Body  of  the  Church  is  a  very  mean 
Building,  in  the  North  part  of  the  Transcept  are  three  very 
old  Saxon  Arches,  in  the  middle  arch  is  a  figure  sitting,  in 
relief,  and  in  this  part  are  remains  of  the  foundations  of  a 
pulpit l  and  of  the  steps  leading  to  it.  A  hole  is  shewn  at  the 
North  West  angle  into  which  they  say  St.  Columb  used  to 
retire  to  prayer.  At  the  East  end  of  the  Church  is  a  stone 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  laid  on  the  Altar  ; 2  it  is  of  a 
white  veined  marble  like  Cipolino  and  seems  to  be  the  Marble 
of  Terre-I.  The  common  people  break  pieces  off  from  it, 
which  they  affect  to  use  as  a  Medicine  for  man  or  beast  in  most 
Disorders,  and  especially  the  flux.  On  the  North  side  of  the 
Quire  is  a  very  entire  Monument  of  Abbot  MacPhingone  ;  he 
is  represented  on  it  with  two  lyons  at  his  feet,  and  one  on  each  side 
of.hisarms;  on  it  is  this  inscription:  +  Hie  +  Jacet  +  Johannes 
MacPhingone  Abbas  de  Y  +  qui  Obiit  Anno  Millessimo  quin- 
gentessimo,  Cujus  Animae  propitietur  Altissimus.3 

On  the  other  side  is  a  monument  in  freestone  for  Abbot 
Mackenzie,  but  the  inscription  is  Defaced.  In  a  small  building  4 
South  of  the  Church  is  the  Monument  of  Abbot  MacPhingone's 
father  with  this  inscription:  +Haec  est  Crux  Lancelani  Mac- 
Phingone et  ejus  filii  Johannis  Abbatis  de  Y  facta  anno  Domini 
MCCCCLXXXIX.* 

Near  it  on  another  stone  much  worn  is  this  inscription :  -f-  Hie 
Jacet  Angutius  filius  Angutii  Maic  Domhuil  Domini  de  Ila.6 

1  More  probably  an  altarage. 

2  When  Pennant  visited  lona  in  1772,  only  a  very  small  portion  of  the  Altar 
Slab  remained,  and  even  that  (he  says)  '  we  contributed  to  diminish. '     The  last 
fragment,   4  in.  x  3  in.,  is  now  in   the   centre  of  the   altar  of  St.  Andrew's 
Episcopal  Chapel,  Willow  Acre,  Glasgow. — Gordon's  lona,  p.  29. 

3  Pennant  illustrates  this  tomb,  and  gives  almost  the  same  inscription,  Tour 
Scot.,  IT] 2,  Pt.  I.  PL  xxiv.  p.  290.     The  inscription  is  now  much  effaced  ;  it  is 
given  by  Drummond  :  .  .  .  [IOH]ANNES  MACFINGONE  ABBAS  DE  Y  QVI  OBIIT 
ANNO  DNI  MILLESIMO  QViN[GENTESiMO]. — Sculp.  Man.  in  lona,  etc.,  PL  xlv. 

4  A  small  burial-place,  with  remains  of  three  stone  coffins,  now  empty  and 
without  covers  ;  also  several  flat  tombstones. 

5  This    inscription    corresponds  very  closely   with   that  given    by   Pennant, 
Tour  Scot,,  p.   286.     In  Drummond's  illustration  it  reads:  HEC  :  EST  :  CRVX  : 
LACCLANI  :  MEIC  :  FINGONE  :  ET  :  EIVS  :  FILII  :  JOHANNIS  :  X  :  ABBATIS  :  DE  :  HY  : 
FACTA  :  ANNO  :  DOMINI  :  M°CCCC°LXXX°IX.— .SVw#.  Mon.,  PL  xxxvi.     Also  see 
Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones,  PL  xlvii.  p.  27. 

6  Given    by   Pennant,    Tour,   p.    287.      Illustrated    by    Drummond  :    HIC  - 
JACET  -  CORPUS    .    .    .     FILII    •  DOMINI  •  ANGUSII MAC   DOMNILI  -  DE  -  ILA. 

— Sculp.  Mon.,  PL  xxv. 


IONA.  83 

This  person  was  called  lunus  or  Angus  Oig  the  chief  of  the  Mac- 
donalds  in  Scotland,  who  lived  under  Robert  Bruce,  and  was 
in  the  Battle  of  Bannocburn  in  the  14th  Century. 

On  the  North  side  of  the  Church  are  remains  of  the  Cloyster l 
built  with  very  ancient  narrow  Saxon  Arches,  on  the  East  side 
of  it  is  an  arched  building  with  four  flat  Niches  on  each  side 
with  arches  turned  over  them,  which  I  j  udged  was  the  Chapter 
house  ;  the  Abbots  Seat  having  been  probably  at  the  further 
end.  To  the  North  is  the  refectory,  and  a  building  near  it 
which  seemed  to  have  been  the  Kitchen ;  at  the  South  West 
corner  of  the  Cloyster  is  an  ancient  Cross  in  bas-relief  sett  in 
the  Wall,  and  near  it  a  broken  Mezzo-relievo  of  a  figure  which 
seemed  to  have  belonged  to  a  tombstone.  On  the  North  side 
of  the  entrance  to  the  Church  is  an  oblong  square  hole  with  a 
wall  round  it,  and  a  flat  plain  tombstone  on  the  south  side  of 
it  under  which  they  say  St.  ColurnVs  body  lay.  Near  this  is 
an  entrance  to  a  vault  which  is  now  filled  up  and  they  say  led 
to  a  subterraneous  passage. 

The  following  inscription  was  given  me  as  near  this 
place : — 2 

+  Hie  Jacet  Johannes  Betonius  M'Lenorum  familias 
medicus  qui  obiit 

Ecce  Cadit  Jaculo  Victrici  Mortis  iniquse 
Qui  toties  alios  solvit  ipse  Malis. 

On  the  South  side  of  the  Church  is  the  burial-place  3  of  the 
M'Clean's  with  several  reliefs  4  of  them  in  armour  on  the  stones 
which  lye  on  the  ground  ;  and  on  the  South  west  part  of  the 
Church  yard  lye  several  stones  on  the  ground,  which  they  say 

1  These  cloister  arches  are  now  entirely  gone,  but  many  of  the  capitals  and 
other  remains  of  the  building  are  preserved  in  the  charter-house  mentioned,  which 
is  the  only  part  of  the  whole  structure  still  carrying  a  roof. 

2  The  memory  of  the  famous  old  Doctor  of  Mull  ...  is  preserved  in  these 
words  :  HIC  JACET  JOHANNES  BETONUS  MACLENORUM  FAMILI/E,  MEDICUS,  QUI 

MORTUUS  EST  ig  NOVEMBRIS  1657.      JEt.  63.      DONALDUS  BETONUS  fecit,  1674.' 
'  Ecce  cadit  jaculo  victricis  mortis  iniquse  ; 
Qui  toties  alios  solverat  ipse  malis, 

Soli  Deo  Gloria.' — Pennant's  Tour  Scot.,  1772,  Pt.  I.  p.  28. 

3  St.  Oran's  burial-ground,  connected  with  St.  Oran's  Chapel. 

4  Drummond's  Sculptured  Monuments  of  lona,  Pis.  xxxvii.,  xxxviii.,  xxxix., 
xli.,  xlii. 


84  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

are  the  tombs  of  the  Kings  of  Scotland  buried  there,  48  in 
number  ;  four  Irish  Kings,  and  eight  Danish  or  Norwegian 
Kings,  one  King  of  France.1  At  the  head  of  them  is  a 
stone  2  sett  upright  in  which  is  an  inscription  in  Eirshe  (Irish) 
characters  which  is  the  name  they  give  the  old  Language  that 
is  spoken  here,  in  Ireland  and  Wales,  which  I  attempted  to 
copy,  but  was  given  me  more  perfectly  taken  by  one  who 
understands  the  Character  and  Language  — 


[+  O  R  •  D  O  •  M   A   I       LF         AT       A  R        I         C] 

and  he  interpreted  it  thus,  Coramac  Ulfhada  hie  est  situs.  He 
saies  ulfhada  means  long-bearded,  from  ulla  (a  beard)  and  fad 
(long)  ;  so  it  is  long-bearded  Coramac.3  Dr.  Keeting  in  his 
history  saies  Coromac  McArt  4  one  of  the  Kings  of  Ireland  was 
buried  here  in  213,  which  date  does  not  correspond  to  this  place. 
Among  the  tombs  is  a  relief  of  an  odd  figure  with  crooked 

1  '  About  70  feet  south  of  the  chapel  is  a  red  unpolished  stone,  beneath  which 
lies  a  nameless  king  of  France.  '  —  Pennant's  Tour,  1  772,  p.  287. 

2  The  Maelpatrick  Stone.     Bishop  Pococke's  informant  was  in  error  in  trans- 
lating it  Coramac,  etc.     The  inscription  is  supposed  to  commemorate  the  Bishop 
of  Conner  and  Dalaradia,  mentioned  in  the  Irish  Annals  of  1174.     Maelpatrick 
O'Banan,  a  venerable  man,  full  of  sanctity,  meekness,  and  purity  of  heart,  died 
in  righteousness  in  Hy-Columbkille  at  a  venerable  age.     Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones, 
vol.  ii.  p.   31.     'The  little  rude  slab  in  the  Reilig  Grain  at  Hy,  bearing  an 
incised  cross,  with  the  inscription,  Ofl   bo  in<^llp<^cAfUC,  "  A  prayer  for  Mael- 
patrick," may  be  commemorative  of  him.     In  the  interval  between  July  1852  and 
July  1853,  when  the  writer  visited  Hy,  part  of  the  slab  (which  is  of  red  sand- 
stone), bearing  the  last  part  of  the  inscription,  had  exfoliated  and  disappeared. 
The  inscription,  as  well  as  the  other  Irish  one  in  the  Reilig  Grain,  has  been  a 
fruitful  source  of  speculation  to  native  antiquarians  '  (see  Ulster  Jour,  of  Archtzol., 
vol.  i.  p.  84).   Concerning  the  Bishop,  see  Reeves's  Eccles.  Antiq.  ,  p.  243  ;  Reeves's 
Adamnan,  p.   408.     See  also   Christian  Inscriptions,   edited  by  Miss  Stokes, 
p.  174,  and  Errata  note  at  end  of  the  vol.     This  mica-slate  slab  was  removed  by 
the  Duke  of  Argyll  to  Inveraray,  and  is  now  carefully  preserved  within  the  Castle. 

3  Illustrated  in  Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones  of  Scot.,  Pis.  xl.,  xli.,  p.  26. 

4  'Lord  Buchan  speaks  of  "long  stones  which  seemed  to  have  had  long 
inscriptions  ;  "    one  of  them  has  on  its  edge,  says  he,  the  following  antique 
inscription   in   the  British   character  :  —  Cormac   Ulfhadda,   hie   est   situs  :    i.e. 
Cormac  Barbatus,  or   Long-bearded,  lies  here.     Cormac  M'Aird,  one  of  the 
kings  of  Ireland,  who,  according  to  Dr.  Keating  in  his  Notitia  Hybemia,  was 
buried  here.'  —  Hist.  Ace.   lona,  by  L.  Maclean,  2d  ed.   1833,  p.   108.      Vide 
Article  '  lona,'  by  Earl  of  Buchan,  Arch.  Scot.,  vol.  i.  p.  240. 


IONA.  85 

leggs,  which  they  call  an  Abbot,  and  say  it  is  Crooked-legged 
Henish  [Hamish], 

At  the  west  end  of  the  Church  is  a  Cross1  called  St. 
Martin's,  and  to  the  West  of  that  a  higher,  about  which  they 
bury  unbaptized  children.  All  of  them  are  adorned  with  run- 
ning lines  as  the  Cross  at  Inverary,2  and  I  suppose  that  of 
Campbelstown,  both  of  which  were  taken  from  this  place,  and 
said  to  be  inscribed  with  Irish  Characters. 

In  the  Church  yard  to  the  south  of  the  great  Church  is  St. 
Quran's  Chapel,  a  Saxon  building  called  Rollic  Ouran,3  it  is 
sixty  feet  long  and  twenty-two  broad.  Here  they  shewed  me 
the  tomb  of  a  Macdonald  of  Clonronnel  in  a  Coat  of  Mail,  and 
here  they  say  is  buried  Paul  a  Duibne  called  Paul-na  sporran 
Knight  of  Lochow,  who  was  Purser  or  Treasurer  to  one  of  the 
Kings  of  Scotland.  Here  also  is  a  stone  with  this  inscription  :4 

Hie  Jacent  Quatuor  Priores  una. 

To  the  North  east  of  the  Church  is  a  small  house  called  the 
Bishop's. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  North  east  of  the  great  Church, 
on  a  piece  of  ground  which  is  at  present  morassy,  are  two  stones 
about  seven  feet  high  with  a  stone  laid  across  at  top,  and  some 
other  stones  near  it  set  up  on  end,  which  they  say  were  the 
first  buildings  St.  Columb  erected  here  ;  but  I  take  them  to  be 
the  remains  of  a  Druid  Temple,5  and  the  rather,  as  this  isle 
was  anciently  called  Inish  Drunish,6  or  the  Isle  of  the  Druids. 

About  300  paces  to  the  East  are  the  remains  of  the  Nunnery 

1  See  'The  Crofters/  Eng.  III.  Mag.,  1885,  p.  717.  2  See  note,  p.  66. 

3  Reilig  Ourain,  the  burying-ground  of  St.  Oran. 

4  Plate    xxxv.,   Drummond's   Sculp.    Man.  : — Hie  :  JACENT  :    QUATUOR  : 
PRIORES  :  DE  :  Y  :  ER  :  UNA  :  NATIONE  :  v  :  JOHANNES  :  HUGONIUS  :  PAT- 

RICIUS  :  IN  :  DECRETIS  :  OLIM  :  BACALARIUS  :  ET  :  ALTER  :  HUGONIUS  :  QIU  : 
OBIIT  :  ANNO  :  DOMINI  :  MILLESIMO  :  QUINGENTESIMO. 

6  Cladh  an  Diesart.  The  trilithon  (all  that  remained  of  the  inclosure)  was 
seen  and  sketched  by  the  late  James  Drummond,  R.S.A.,  and  as  the  first  plate 
in  his  Sculptured  Monuments  in  lona  forms  a  most  picturesque  illustration.  The 
upper  stone  has  since  been  removed  and  broken  up. — Proc.  Soc.  Ant.  of  Scot., 
vol.  x.  p.  614. 

6  '  Bishop  Pocock  mentions,  that  he  had  seen  two  stones  seven  feet  high,  with 
a  third  laid  across  on  their  tops,  an  evident  Cromleh  :  he  also  adds,  that  the 
Irish  name  of  the  island  was  Inish  Drunish.' — Pennant's  Tour  in  Scot.  1772, 
Part  I.  p.  295. 


86  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

of  the  Cannonisses  of  St.  Austin,  Dedicated  to  St.  Oran  and 
said  to  be  founded  by  the  Benedictines  who  were  settled  in  this 
Abbey.  It  is  reported  that  they  continued  here  in  their 
Dresses  several  years  after  the  reformation ;  and  I  was  told 
that  the  last  Abbess  died  here  after  she  had  sold  the  lands. 
The  Church  was  small ;  the  refectory  and  the  Abbesses  lodgings 
are  remaining  and  one  sees  the  side  of  the  Cloyster.  In  the 
Church  yard  are  some  stones  adorned  with  lines  as  the  Crosses 
are.  I  could  not  see  the  tomb  of  the  Prioress,  described  as  having 
a  relief  of  her  on  it  in  black  marble  with  this  inscription  in 
which  the  latter  part  is  remarkable:  +  Hie  +  Jacet  +  Domina 
Anna  Donalda  Tertetis  filia  quondam  Priorissa  de  lona,  quae 
obiit  anno  Millessimo  quingentessimo  &  undecimo ;  Cujus 
Animam  Abrahammo  Commendamus.1 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south  of  the  town  is  a 
little  Bay  where  bodies  were  always  landed  which  were  brought 
to  be  buried,  and  till  within  this  six  years  Women  were  always 
buried  in  the  Nunnery,  and  Men  in  the  Monastery.  To  the 
west  of  it  are  the  foundations  of  an  enclosure  about  twenty 
yards  square,  which  they  call  the  Druid's  Burial-place. 

I  went  to  the  South  west  part  of  the  Island  and  in  half  a 
mile  passed  by  a  fine  small  green  hill,2  called  Angel  Hill,8 
where  they  bring  their  Horses  on  the  day  of  St.  Michael  and 
All  Angels,  and  run  races  round  it ;  it  is  probable  this  custom 
took  its  rise  from  bringing  the  Cattle  at  that  season  to  be 
blessed,  as  they  do  now  at  Rome  on  a  certain  day  of  the  year. 

A  mile  further  is  a  small  Bay  called  Port   i   Charich  or 

1  Given  by  Pennant,  Tour  Scot.,  1772,  Pt.  i.  p.  282.     Illustrated  in  Drum- 
mond's  Sculp.  Man.,  PI.  xliv.     .  .  .  FILIE  QUONDAM  PRIORISSE  DE  IONA  QUE 

OBIIT  ANO  M°D0XL0III  ET  [ANIM]AM  ALTISSIMO  COMENDAM[VS].  Also  See 
Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones,  PI.  Ixi.  p.  31. 

2  Cnoc  nan-aingeal. 

3  '  On  my  return  saw,  on  the  right  hand,  on  a  small  hill,  a  small  circle  of 
stones,  and  a  little  cairn  in  the  middle,  evidently  druidical,  but  called  the  kill 
of  the  angels ;    Cnoc  nar-aimgeal ;    from  a  tradition  that   the  holy  man  [St. 
Columba]  had   there  a  conference  with  those  celestial  beings   soon  after  his 
arrival.      Bishop  Pocock  informed  me,   that  the  natives  were  accustomed  to 
bring  their  horses  to  this  circle  at  the  feast  of  St.  Michael,  and  to  course  round 
it.     I  conjecture  that  this  usage  originated  from  the  custom  of  blessing  the 
horses  in  the  days  of  superstition,  when  the  priest  and  the  holy- water  pot  were 
called  in  :  but  in  latter  times  the  horses  are  still  assembled,  but  the  reason  for- 
gotten.'— Pennant's  1772  Tour  in  Scot.,  Part  I.  p.  297. 


IONA.  87 

Curich l  (The  Port  of  the  Curicle  or  boat)  because  they  say  St. 
Columba  landed  there  from  Ireland  in  a  Curricle  as  they  call 
it ;  and  at  the  bank  the  shape  of  it  is  marked  out  and  a  stone 
set  at  each  end  of  it,  but  it  is  I  believe  forty  or  fifty  feet  long.2 

On  this  bay  they  find  transparent  pebbles  mostly  green, 
and  some  white  which  are  the  best,  and  they  make  sleeve 
buttons  of  them  which  look  like  agats.  Here  I  found  a 
beautiful  sea  plant  with  smooth  thick  leaves,  and  small  blew 
flowers,  of  which  I  brought  away  a  specimen. 

On  the  high  beach,  composed  of  Pebbles,  are  several  heaps 
of  them,  which  some  conjecture  to  have  been  made  by  Pilgrims 
by  way  of  Pennance.3 

The  rocks  at  this  end  of  the  Island  are  of  red  granite  some 
of  which  is  mixed  with  green  veins.  The  rest  of  the  island 
consists  mostly  of  a  black  firestone,  the  soil  of  the  plain  part 
between  the  rocks  is  very  fruitfull.  The  Sand  on  the  Beaches 
round  the  Island  is  remarkably  white. 

There  are  about  36  families  on  the  Island  who  live  in  the 
Village  at  the  Churches.  I-Colm  Kill  is  in  the  district  of  the 
neighbouring  Minister  in  Mull,  who  performs  service  here  once 
a  Quarter  in  a  private  House. 

From  the  part  we  were  at,  in  clear  weather  the  isle  of 
Terre-I  is  seen,  that  is  the  land  of  I,  for  it  belonged  to  this 
Monastery.  It  is  about  eight  miles  long,  and  three  broad,  and 
is  a  very  fine  flat  fertile  spot  of  ground,  and  one  part,  the 
Common,  is  the  finest  pasturage.  It  is  the  property  of  the 
Duke  of  Argyle  and  there  are  about  300  houses  in  it.  They 

1  '  Strangers  visiting  lona,  who  have  time  to  do  so,  should  take  a  boat  from 
the  landing-place  to  the  Port-na-Churaich — the  creek  where  Columba  landed. 
In  passing  along  this  part  of  the  shore  with  its  successive  bays  and  creeks,  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  the  contorted  stratification  ;  and  the  colouring  of  the  rock  near 
the  Port  itself,  seen  through  the  clear  ocean  water,  is  singularly  beautiful.     It  is, 
perhaps,  vain  to  speculate — and  yet  a  geologist  cannot  fail  to  do  so — as  to  the  nature 
of  those  "  metamorphic  "  agencies  which  have  converted  matter,  once  consisting 
of  soft  marine  deposits,  into  rocks  so  intensely  hard  and  so  highly  mineralised. 
The  beach  of  the  Port-na-Churaich,  which  consists  of  fragments  of  these  rocks 
rolled  and  polished  by  the  surf,  is  almost  like  a  beach  of  precious  stones. ' — lona, 
by  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  1870,  pp.  129,  130. 

2  See  Publications  of  the  lona  Press.     lona,  1887. 

3  Pennant    says :    '  The   penances   of    monks   who   were    to   raise  heaps   of 
dimensions  equal  to  their  crimes  :  and  to  judge  by  some,  it  is  no  breach  of  charity 
to  think  there  were  among  them  enormous  sinners.' — Tour,  1772,  Part  I.  p.  297. 


88  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

have  a  Minister  but  no  Church.  When  a  stranger  lands  they 
leave  off  their  work,  and  come  to  attend  him  all  round  the  isle 
wherever  he  goes.  They  are  remarkable  for  horses,  smaller 
than  those  of  the  isle  of  Man,  as  I  was  told  about  five  hands 
high,  and  sell  them  for  twenty  shillings.  They  have  a  white 
Marble  in  this  island  and  some  of  it  with  grey  veins,  something 
like  the  Cipolino.  This  place  is  managed  and  governed  by  the 
Duke's  Agent,  who  is  a  Justice  of  the  Peace  and  settles  all 
differences  between  them.  This  Isle  as  to  Spirituals  belonged 
to  the  Dean  of  Lismore  who  was  called  Dean  of  Terre-I  but 
this  it  is  probable  was  after  the  reformation.  The  largest  Cod 
and  Ling  are  caught  about  these  Islands. 

They  hand  down  from  father  to  son  the  large  two  handed 
sword  and  the  Helmet  of  the  family. 

In  I-Colm-Kill  when  I  went  into  a  poor  house  with  the 
Bailie  of  Terre-I  a  woman  brought  in  a  wooden  vessel  of  new 
Milk  and  drank  to  the  Bailie,  who  performed  the  same  cere- 
mony to  me  and  so  it  went  round.  After  we  had  viewed 
every  thing  I  was  conducted  to  a  house  where  Eggs,  Cheese, 
Butter,  and  Barley  Cake  were  served,  and  a  large  bowl  of 
Curds. 

Going  through  Mull,  I  met  one  of  the  chief  ladies  of  the 
Island  riding  home  from  a  great  burial  where  they  had  staid 
some  days  ;  before  her  went  a  lad  bareheaded,  as  they  all  go  till 
they  are  above  twenty,  and  held  up  a  stick  in  his  hand ;  behind 
her  at  a  little  distance  walked  her  maid.  This  leads  me  to 
speak  of  a  singular  custom  there,  and  I  believe  in  most  of 
these  parts.  They  spend  commonly  three  days  at  funerals,  one 
before  and  one  after,  and  often  more,  especially  those  who  are 
related  and  have  any  Buissiness  to  do,  and  those  who  come  from 
far ;  and  this  time  is  spent  in  eating  and  drinking  very  plenti- 
fully ;  and  the  widow  and  children  danced  with  others  round 
the  Corps  till  very  lately.1 

The  notion  of  the  second  sight  prevails  very  much  in  Mull, 
I-Colmkill,  Terri-I  and  Col,  which  is  a  subject  I  may  consider 
in  another  place. 

The   Inhabitants   of  Terre-I    are   esteemed    great   natural 
geniuses,  especially  for  Poetry,  chiefly  of  the  Lyric  kind,  in 
1  See  Garnet's  Tour  through  the  Highlands,  1798,  p.  119. 


IONA,  MULL.  89 

which  they  are  rather  exceeded  by  those  of  the  Isle  of  Skye. 
Mr.  M'Pherson1  of  that  Island  a  Minister  there  who  gained 
reputation  in  writing  against  Mr.  Laws,  has  composed  several 
very  fine  Poems  mostly  in  Latin,  some  of  which  are  printed  in 
the  Scotch  Magazine. 

In  Morvern  on  the  sound  of  Mull  is  a  good  freestone 
quarry. 

I  returned  to  the  Isle  of  Mull  to  Mr.  Campbell's  of  Croma- 
kery,  and  on  the  9th  came  to  Achancraig  the  same  way.  There 
are  three  Justices  of  the  Peace  in  Mull. 

They  have  several  burial-places,  where  there  are  no  signs  of 
Churches,  but  probably  there  were  Churches  at  most  of  them. 
Any  one  who  rents  a  Village  and  has  tenants  under  him  is 
called  a  Gentleman,  and  sometimes  they  keep  publick  houses. 
The  best  houses  in  the  island  (a  very  few  excepted)  are  only 
thatched  Cabins  built  of  large  stones,  and  form  a  semi-circle  at 
each  end.  They  have  neither  hares,  partriges,  nor  the  Roe 
Deer;  but  plenty  of  red  Deer,  the  black  game  and  grouse. 
There  are  near  1000  houses  and  about  4000  souls  2  in  Mull. 

In  this  island  and  other  parts  they  chew  the  root8  of  an 
herb  called  Charnicle  [?  Charmele],  a  sort  of  wild  liquorice,  and 
it  is  said  when  they  drink  whiskey  it  keeps  them  from  being 
intoxicated. — I  am,  etc. 

1  Rev.  John  MacPherson,  A.M.,  minister  of  Sleat,  Skye.     Died  1765,  aged 
fifty-six.     '  He  gave  testimony  to  the  authenticity  of  Ossian's  poems,  was  himself  a 
scholar  and  Latin  poet  of  no  mean  order,  so  that  the  great  English  lexicographer 
was  constrained  to  admit  "  it  does  him  honour  ;  he  has  a  great  deal  of  Latin,  and 
good  Latin."     Publications:  Critical  Dissertations  on  the  Origin,  Antiquities, 
Language,  Government,  Manners,  and  Religion  of  the  Ancient  Caledonians,  their 
Posterity  the  Picts,  and  the  British  and  Irish  Scots,  Lond.  1768,  4to  ;  "  Latin  Ode 
to  the  Memory  of  Mr.  Norman  M'Leod,"  minister  of  Duirnish;  "The  Song  of 
Moses,  paraphrased  in  Latin  Verse"  (Scot.  Mag.  i.,  ix.,  xi.);  "Letter  to  the  Author 
of  a  Treatise  on  the  Second  Sight  in  1759"  (Miscell.  Scot,  i.)' — Fasti  Ecclesia 
Scoticana,  Pt.  V.  p.  129. 

2  Pennant  gives  a  higher  population  twelve  years  later  :  '  near  four  thousand 
catechisable  persons.' — Tour,  1772,  Pt.  I.  p.  407. 

3  '  The   Natives  [of  Mull]  .   .  .  chew  a  Piece  of  Charmel-root,  when  they 
intend  to  be  merry,  to  prevent  Drunkenness.' — Tour  through  Great  Britain,  1753 
(by  Daniel  Defoe),  vol.  iv.  p.  273.     See  also  Martin's  Western  Isles ;  Pennant's 
Tour,  1769,  p.  310;   Flora  Scotica,  by  Lightfoot,   1776,  p.  388  and  p.  1132; 
The  Scottish  Gael,  by  Logan,  vol.  ii.  p.  158  (new  ed.)  and  p.   167;  Jamieson's 
Scottish  Dictionary. 


90  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LETTER  XVII. 

ARDES  IN  ARGYLESHIRE,  _/«;&;  \2th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  10th  I  went  by  water  eight  miles  to 
the  Isle  of  Lismore,  and  two  more  along  the  south  east  side  of 
it,  where  we  landed.  We  saw  young  Whales  swimming  round 
the  bay  and  making  a  great  noise  when  they  blew. 

This  Isle  is  esteemed  the  finest  spot  of  ground  of  all  the 
islands.  It  is  a  beautifull  rock  adorned  all  round  with  trees 
and  shrubs,  and  though  there  are  rocks  almost  all  over  the 
Island,  yet  the  soil  between  them  bears  excellent  Barley  and 
Oats,  being  a  limestone,  and  they  have  plenty  of  Marie.  It 
was  the  See  of  the  Bishop  of  Argyle  containing  the  Countries 
of  Argyle,  Lorns  Kintyre,  and  Lochaber,  with  some  of  the 
western  isles.  Molocus  was  their  tutelar  saint  whose  day  is 
kept  on  the  10th  of  April ;  he  lived  about  1160  and  his  bones 
were  brought  to  this  place.  John  the  Englishman  Bishop  of 
Dunkeld  was  an  excellent  man,  lived  about  1200  and  requested 
the  pope  to  take  this  See  out  of  Dunkeld,  and  the  Bps.  were 
called  Episcopi  Lismorenses,  tho"1  they  have  been  called 
Ergadienses,  and  Ergalienses. 

Going  up  towards  the  Church  I  saw  a  Rivulet  which  turns 
a  Mill,  and  rises  out  of  a  beautifull  lake  which  is  in  a  deep 
bason  and  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length  and  a  furlong  in 
breadth  and  is  edged  with  wood.  Nothing  remains  of  the 
Church  but  the  Quire,  the  doors,  and  seats  for  the  officiating 
priests ;  they  are  of  the  most  plain  and  simple  Saxon  architec- 
ture I  ever  saw,  which  is  a  mark  either  of  the  Antiquity  of  it, 
or  of  the  want  of  art  when  it  was  built,  supposing  the  Fabrick 
is  of  no  longer  date  than  the  See.  At  the  reformation  this  See 
was  removed  to  Dunon1  between  Lough  Fine  and  the  Lake 
Heck  2  as  the  most  convenient  situation  for  the  Diocese.  About 
3  miles  to  the  south  west  I  saw  the  old  Castle  which  com- 
manded a  view  of  the  sound  of  Mull,  and  was  the  Bishop's 
house. 

1  Dunoon.  2  Loch  Eck. 


LISMORE,  APPIN.  91 

I  observed  many  veins  of  white  Flint  running  through  the 
Marble.  Such  veins  when  they  are  of  Sparr  are  a  sign  of  Ore. 

We  passed  by  a  Danish  fort  on  an  eminence  encompassed 
with  a  round  wall  of  loose  stones.1 

There  are  200  families  in  this  island  and  near  1000  souls. 

From  this  Island  we  crossed  about  a  league  to  Ardes  the 
seat  of  Campbell,  Laird  of  Ardes,2  a  very  pleasant  place  near  a 
low  hill,  to  the  east  covered  with  wood,  commanding  a  view  of 
the  great  bay  to  the  South,  and  the  islands  in  it,  and  of  Linnhe 
Lough  to  the  North  West  which  extends  up  to  Fort  William. 
The  name  of  this  Lough  or  bay  in  Eirshe,  is  Lochy,  and  it  is  the 
river  Longus  of  Ptolemy,  for  the  Romans  doubtless  gave  names 
which  had  some  resemblance  to  those  of  the  inhabitants.  It  is 
also  situated  very  near  to  Lough  Creran  at  the  mouth  of  which 
is  the  Isle  called  Ireska,  I  was  told  the  tyde  does  not  ebb  to 
the  north  of  the  isle,  and  so  that  way  it  is  always  passable. 

A  plant  grows  on  the  shore  here  which  they  call  Spinage 
and  is  most  excellent  in  the  garden,  where  they  are  sure  to 
have  plenty  of  it,  if  they  manure  with  sea  weed  which  conveys 
the  Seed.  It  is  a  plant  that  is  in  great  abundance  in  most 
gardens ;  in  gathering  it  they  take  care  not  to  destroy  the 
root,  and  it  continues  to  shoot  out  for  a  considerable  time. 

I  here  procured  two  bones  of  the  leg  and  thigh  of  the 
Urus  found  at  Lismore.3 

Here  I  was  also  presented  with  an  ornament  of  Brass  in  an 
oval  shape  adorned  with  Mosaic  Embosements  in  several  com- 
partments ;  there  was  one  on  each  side  of  the  breast  of  the 
skeleton,  and  they  are  supposed  to  have  been  ornaments  on 
each  side  of  the  shield,  for  the  irons  to  fix  it  remain  in  part — 
a  Drawing  of  it  is  here  given  ;  with  this  skeleton  was  found  a 
pin  about  four  inches  long,  and  a  brass  needle  two  inches  long, 
which,  'tis  supposed  fastened  some  parts  of  the  garment.  It 
was  found  in  the  Isle  of  Sangay 4  between  Wist  and  Harris  a 
place  much  frequented  by  the  Danes. 

1  Tirefoor.  *  Airds.  3  See  note  I,  p.  72. 

4  Norwegian  Oval  Bowl-shaped  Brooch ;  vide  Scotland  in  Pagan  Times,  by 
Jos.  Anderson,  LL.D.,  1883,  p.  43.  Dr.  Pococke's  brooch  is  evidently  the  one 
referred  to  and  engraved  in  the  Vetusta  Monumenta  of  the  Soc.  of  Antiq. 
London,  vol.  ii.  PI.  xx.  Figs.  ix.  and  x.;  Explanations,  p.  2.  'An  oval  brass 
ornament  of  chased  work,  somewhat  like  the  embossment  of  a  horse-bit.  It  was 


92  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

If  shall  now  give  some  account  of  the  Western  Isles  as  to 
the  things  which  are  most  remarkable,  some  of  which  I  have 
been  informed  of,  but  have  most  of  them  from  Authentick 
writings,  which  on  enquiry  have  been  confirmed  to  me. 


An  Ornament  found  in  a  Sepulchral  Cell  [in  Lingay  Island].1 

At  Avona  2  near  Cantire  is  a  good  Harbour  to  which  the 
Danes  used  to  come  when  they  possessed  these  Isles. 

At  Gigaia  3  is  a  mineral  water ;  two  sea  weeds  for  dying  grow 
on  the  stones  there,  Corkir  for  Crimson,  and  Crottil  for  Phila- 
morte,  which  is  a  yellow  Brown,  the  colour  of  dead  leaf.4 

found,  together  with  a  long  brass  pin  and  a  brass  needle,  one  on  each  side  of  a 
skeleton,  in  the  Isle  of  Sangay,  between  the  Isles  of  Uril  [Uist]  and  Harris,  to 
the  west  of  Scotland.  Exactly  the  fellow  of  it  is  in  the  British  Museum.'  The 
evidence  appears  conclusive  that  the  writer  in  the  Vetusta  Monumenta  must  have 
seen  Bishop  Pococke's  MSS.,  for  here  we  find  the  origin  of  the  mistake  Isle  of 
Sangay — doubtless  Lingay  Island,  and  the  MS.  might  be  read  Langay.  Also  on 
the  MS.  has  been  written  the  following  note,  probably  by  the  same  writer : 
'  Exactly  the  fellow  of  it  is  in  the  Museum  from  Sr.  Hans  Sloanes  collection.' 

1  See  note  5,  p.  93.  2  Isle  of  Sanda,  the  Avona  Porticosa.          8  Gigha. 

4  Highland  dyes.  '  Crottle  Corkir  Fine,  white  variety,  ground  into  powder 
and  mixed  with  urine  ;  dyes  Crimson.  Crottle,  a  coarse  kind  of  Lichen  ;  dyes 
Philamot — Yellowish  Brown  (colour  of  a  dead  leaf. )'  Article  '  Highland  Dyes'  in 
N.  N.  6°  Q.  by  A.  Ross,  Inverness,  vol.  i.  p.  10. 


WESTERN  ISLES.  93 

In  Jura  they  have  a  mineral  water  good  for  the  Stomach 
and  stone ;  they  live  to  a  great  age.  One  of  the  name  of 
M'Clain  died  here  in  the  last  Century  who  had  lived  180 
Christmasses  in  the  same  house — a  fact  that  ought  to  be 
enquired  into  before  it  be  fully  credited ;  and  they  live  also  to 
a  great  age  in  the  Isle  of  Scarba. 

In  Ila l  there  is  plenty  of  Lead  and  Limestone. 

In  Lough  Finglan,2  in  the  middle  of  it,  lived  Macdonald 
King  of  the  Isles,  the  ruins  of  whose  Castle  is  still  to  be  seen. 
Here  is  a  mineral  water. 

In  Oransa  there  was  a  monastery  dedicated  to  St.  Columbus. 

In  Colonsa  I  was  informed  there  was  a  monastery  Dependant 
on  I-Colmkill. 

It  is  supposed  that  on  the  north  end  of  Canney  3  is  Iron  or 
Loadstone,  because  the  Needle  does  not  answer  there. 

In  Egg  are  several  Mineral  waters.  It  belongs  to  the 
Macdonalds,  and  all  the  inhabitants  are  roman  Catholics  as 
they  are  in  South-Wist,  and  Barra,  Kismul  and  Benbecula,  and 
there  are  many  in  the  shire  of  Inverness. 

In  Skye  are  seven  parishes  and  great  remains  of  the  Druids. 
Opposite  to  Skye  at  Bernera  in  Glanily  are  two  round  towers,4 
they  are  about  60  feet  in  Diameter,  and  built  with  double 
walls  between  which  is  a  winding  ascent  without  steps  as  I  was 
informed,  but  find  they  are  the  same  as  some  others  which  I 
shall  describe  in  Sutherland.  They  are  engraved  in  Gordon's 
Journey  over  Scotland  who  describes  them,  and  saies  there 
have  been  winding  stairs  up  to  the  top,  that  they  are  33 
feet  high,  the  two  walls  and  passages  twelve  feet  and 
they  are  divided  into  four  stories.  Here  they  dry  fish 
without  salt,  and  in  some  islands,  near  the  Sea  they  salt  sea 
fowl  with  Kelp  ashes.  Ambergras  has  been  found  on  some 
of  these  Coasts. 

In  Lingay  5  they  have  Swans,  and  salt  their  beef  in  skins, 
which  they  say  keep  it  fresher  than  wood. 

1  Islay.  2  Loch  Finlaggan,  on  an  islet  in  it  are  the  ruins. 

3  Canna,  Compass  Hill. — Vide  Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  xvii.  p.  287. 

4  Castles  Troddan  and  Tellve,  Gordon's  /#«.,  Sept.,  PI.  65,  p.   167.     See 
Anderson's  Scot,  in  Pagan  Times,  1883,  pp.  181,   182,  for  description  of  these 
Brochs  in  the  Valley  of  Glenbeg  in  Glenelg,  miswritten  Glanily. 

5  Lingay  Island,  north  of  Uist,  written  Sangay  on  p.  91. 


94  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

At  the  North  end  of  Harris  Island  they  have  a  greater 
variety  and  more  beautifull  shells  than  on  any  other  Coast. 
In  the  isle  of  Lewis  there  is  a  most  remarkable  Druid  Temple.1 
About  twenty  leagues  to  the  west  of  these  islands  is  the  isle 
of  St.  Kilda,  of  which  I  learnt  the  following  particulars ;  for 
other  things  I  refer  to  what  Martyn  has  wrote  in  his  treatise 
on  the  Western  isles,  who  travelled  several  years  agoe,  and 
took  most  of  what  he  writ,  from  the  report  of  others.  He  had 
a  pension  from  the  Government,  I  think  in  the  time  of 
Charles  the  2nd  to  enable  him  to  undertake  that  work.  About 
eighty  years  agoe  they  were  without  a  Minister,  and  after  some 
time  an  imposter2  went  among  them,  who  at  last  behaved 
improperly  to  their  Women,  and  was  sent  off;  and  when  they 
were  visited  by  a  Minister  some  years  after,  they  were  found 
very  ignorant,  and  had  little  more  than  the  name  of  Christians. 
They  were  about  160  souls,  but  the  small  pox  coming  among 
them  the  infection  of  which  was  brought  in  some  cloaths,  a 
great  number  of  them  died,  so  that  now  there  are  not  above 
70  or  80  souls.  They  are  subject  to  the  scurvy,  and  many  of 
their  children  dye ;  for  they  live  chiefly  on  seafowl,  fish,  and 
eggs,  and  are  dextrous  in  taking  the  Eggs,  being  let  down  the 
rocks  several  feet  by  a  rope.  They  marry  early,  the  women  at 
14,  the  men  at  19,  and  have  a  particular  dress.  The  sheep 
commonly  bring  2  or  3  lambs,  and  they  make  small  Cheese  of 
their  milk,  much  in  taste  like  those  of  Cyprus  in  the  Levant. 
They  have  but  one  road  to  go  in,  and  that  so  bad  that  they  are 
obliged  to  draw  the  boat  up  the  rock,  for  there  is  no  anchorage. 
It  belongs  to  the  Laird  of  Macloud  who  sends  one  of  his 
relations  there,  and  they  pay  their  rent,  in  cows,  sheep,  butter 
and  cheese ;  for  they  have  no  money.  This  is  brought  to  the 
Continent  to  be  sold  ;  and  they  themselves  have  no  trade.  The 
Scotch  Society  for  propagating  Christian  Knowledge  sent  a 
minister  to  them,  who  is  returned,  and  he  gave  this  account  of 
them. — I  am,  &c. 

1  The  Callernish  (or  more  properly  Classernis)  groups  of  stone  circles  near 
Loch  Roaig.     The  most  remarkable  one  having  lines  of  stones  in  cruciform 
position.     See  Defoe's   Tour,   5th  ed.   (1753),  vol.  iv.   p.  285  ;  Dr.  Wilson's 
Prehistoric  Annals  of  Scot.,  vol.  i.  p.  166 ;  Dr.  Ferguson's  Rude  Stone  Mons., 
p.  259.     Dr.  Anderson's  Scot,  in  Pagan  Times,  1886,  p.  120. 

2  '  An  Account  of  one  Roderick,'  Martin's  Voyage  to  St.  Kilda,  1753,  p.  68. 


ST.  KILDA,  APPIN.  95 


LETTER  XVIII. 

FORT  WiLLiAM,y«;j<?  i^tA,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  13th  I  left  Ardes  going  by  land,  the 
wind  being  contrary ;  and  crossing  a  stream  which  extends  to  the 
East,  in  a  mile  came  to  Karn-vain l  (the  White-Kern)  which  is 
very  large.  On  the  west  side  of  it  a  little  way  up  is  a  very  difficult 
entrance  which  leads  to  a  cell  about  two  yards  long  and  one  and 
a  half  broad,  and  this  by  a  sort  of  door  place  to  another  about 
the  same  dimensions.  I  observed  in  some  parts  the  stones  on  the 
sides  are  laid  flat,  in  others  edge  way,  and  a  little  sloping,  and 
large  stones  are  laid  across  on  the  top ;  To  the  north  of  it  is  a 
low  heap  of  stones,  in  which  three  mouths  of  entrances  are 
very  visible,  and  there  seemed  to  be  two  more ;  these  were  pro- 
bably for  different  Branches  of  the  family ;  the  large  one  is 
twelve  yards  long  at  the  top  and  about  a  yard  broad  :  It  is  not 
improbable  that  these  Cells  were  built  all  round  and  several 
stories  of  them  one  over  another.  They  are  something  in  the 
style  of  the  Picts  houses  but  the  entrance  in  the  Cells  of  those 
were  at  the  Bottom. 

Opposite  to  this  is  a  curious  structure  of  the  Castle  kind, 
situated  on  a  rock,  of  which  it  takes  up  near  the  whole  surface, 
there  are  stairs  on  the  outside  to  the  upper  floor,  as  may  be 
seen  by  the  Drawing.  They  can  ford  over  to  the  Island  at  low 
water.  It  was  built  by  James  the  Vth  probably  for  a  hunting 
lodge  as  it  is  called  Tene  Stalcar  2  (The  house  of  the  Hunter). 

In  half  a  mile  we  came  to  Detersunt 3  the  uninhabited  place 
of  a  Stewart,  with  fine  plantations  about  it  and  commanding  a 

1  Carn  ban,  or  White  Cairn,  probably  at  Port  na  Crois,  on  the  east  side  of 
Loch  Laich  bay. 

2  Tigh  na  Stalcaire,  written  phonetically  by  the  Bishop  Tene  Stalcar,    on 
Island   Stalker,   or   Eilean  an    Stalcair  —  the    Isle   of  the   Falconer.      '  The 
founder  was  Duncan  Stewart  of  Appin,  who  built  it  for  the  accommodation  of 
James  iv.,  who  used  to  frequent  these  parts  on  hunting  expeditions.' — New  Stat, 
Ac.,  Argyle,  vol.  vii.  p.  240. 

3  The  Bishop's  amanuensis  may  have  miswritten  Detursunt  for  Letersuna, 
or  (1)  Letershuna.     Lettirschewnay  is  the  name  of  lands  which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Stewarts  of  Appin.     Thomson's  Abbrev.  Retours  of  Scot.,  vol.  i.  (1811), 
for  1633,  Nos.  42-53. 


96 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


charming  view  of  the  Lough,  the  Hill  being  covered  with  wood 
all  the  way  to  the  Ferry,  and  the  ride  mostly  in  sight  of  the 
Water. 

In  half  a  mile  more  we  came  to  a  height  from  which  I  saw 
all  the  opposite  Islands  and  those  on  each  side  of  this  Bay. 


Castle  of  TeneStalcar. 

In  two  miles  we  came  to  a  rivulet  and  bay  where  is  the 
ruined  Church  of  Kill  Columb  Kill  said  to  be  built  by  St. 
Columb ;  and  a  little  further  is  a  stone  set  up  on  end  which 
seems  to  have  been  worked  into  form.  They  give  such  stones 
the  name  of  Carr.  This  is  about  8  feet  high.1 

This  country  belonged  to  Stewart  of  Appin  who  forfeited 

'  1  At  Duror. 


APPIN,  GLENCOE,  LOCH  LEVEN.  97 

in  the  late  rebellion,  and  the  Inhabitants  are  Episcopal  Non 
jurors.  Those  Estates  are  in  the  Government  and  given  for 
publick  uses,  but  they  are  so  charged  by  allowing  large  salaries 
to  factors  and  by  debts  due  on  them,  that  little  as  yet  is  got 
by  them,  but  the  Crown  has  great  influence  by  having  them  in 
their  hands.  We  passed  by  a  place  where  the  factor  of  this 
Estate,  who  was  displacing  some  of  the  old  tenants,  was  shot 
dead ;  some  say  by  a  servant  of  Stewarts  who  fled ;  some  suspect 
his  son ;  but  a  natural  son  who  harboured  the  person  that  fled, 
was  hung  in  chains  on  a  hill  over  the  ferry  we  passed  at  Lough 
Leven. 

We  came  to  that  ferry,  there  is  a  hill  to  the  South  of  it, 
which  much  resembles  Mount  Tabor1  on  which  our  Saviour 
was  transfigured,  except  that  the  surface  of  Tabor  is  smoother, 
but  this  is  covered  with  trees  and  fine  verdure  in  the  same 
manner. 

Two  miles  higher  on  the  south  side  of  Lough  Leven  is 
Glenco,  famous  for  the  Massacre2  by  a  command  under  an 
officer  of  King  William,  who,  "'tis  said,  required  them  to  take 
the  Oaths,  wch  not  being  complied  with,  some  say  for  want  of 
a  Justice  of  Peace,  he  executed  his  order  in  that  case  (as  'tis 
said)  from  a  great  person,  but  as  it  could  not  be  entirely  fixed. 

Lough  Leven  is  seen  from  the  hill  winding  beautifully  to 
the  North,  and  the  tyde  comes  in  here  with  great  rapidity. 

1  '  Left  Fort  William,  and  proceeded  South  along  the  military  road  on  the 
side  of  a  hill,  an  aweful  height  above  Loch-Leven,  a  branch  of  the  sea,  so  narrow 
as  to  have  only  the  appearance  of  a  river,  bounded  on  both  sides  with  vast  moun- 
tains, among  whose  winding  bottoms  the  tide  rolled  in  with  solemn  majesty. 
The  scenery  begins  to  grow  very  romantic  ;  on  the  West  side  are  some  woods  of 
birch  and  pines  :  the  hills  are  very  lofty,  many  of  them  taper  to  a  point ;  and  my 
old  friend,  the  late  worthy  Bishop  Pocock,  compared  the  shape  of  one  to  Mount 
Tabor.'1 — Pennant's  1769  Tour  in  Scot.,  p.  229. 

'  A  beautiful  high  hill,  green  to  the  very  Top,  and  Wood  almost  to  the  Sum- 
mit. .  .  .  This  hill  is  called  Benvheir.  .  .  .  Dr.  Pocock  admired  it  much,  and 
said  it  resembled  Mount  Tabor  more  than  any  Hill  he  had  ever  seen,  from  which 
Lady  Ballachelish  calls  it,  for  the  most  part,  Mount  Tabor.' — Bp.  Forbes' 's 
Journals,  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  311. 

2  In  the  MS.  the  whole  reference  to  the  massacre  is  cancelled  in  ink,  thus  V> 
whether  by  Dr.  Pococke  or  a  later  hand  cannot  be  determined.     It  is  however 
extremely  likely  to  have  been  the  Bishop's  cancellation,  for  he  appears  to  have 
believed  in  the  divine  right  of  kings,  and  wished  that  even  his  timid  account  of 
the  infamous  act  should  be  expunged. 

6 


98  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

On  the  North  side  we  passed  by  a  very  good  Slate  quarry, 
and  a  little  further  we  came  to  a  vein  of  grey  Marble  at  Blair 
Chalisty ;  we  then  turned  to  the  North  having  a  pleasant  hill 
covered  with  wood  to  the  East,  and  a  view  of  Lough  Eil  and 
of  high  rocky  Mountains  to  the  West  of  it.  Between  them  we 
saw  a  Vale,  called  I  believe  Inversaddell,  in  which  there  is  a 
very  grand  high  mountain  with  a  broad  top. 

On  a  green  flat  point  about  two  miles  below  Fort  William, 
if  I  mistake  not,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Vale,  the  Pretender 
first  set  up  his  Standard1  in  1745  from  which  place  they  marched 
behind  the  mountains  to  be  covered  from  Fort  William  towards 
Achnacarry,  Lochiels  place  which  was  their  head  quarters  of 
Rendevouz. 

I  came  to  Fort  William  which  was  built  by  King  William 
to  bridle  the  highlanders  :  It  is  a  weak  fortress,  but  they  have 
put  high  Pallisadoes  along  the  fossee  which  would  prevent  any 
sudden  assault.  It  was  besieged  in  the  late  rebellion  but  the 
Siege  was  raised  on  the  approach  of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland, 
tho1  'tis  said  they  could  not  have  taken  it  with  the  train  of 
small  Artilery  they  had  against  it :  It  is  an  irregular  pentagon. 
There  is  a  very  poor  town  at  Fort  William. 

A  little  to  the  North  of  this  is  a  very  small  Lake, 
called  Loughaber,  which  gives  name  to  that  part  of  the 
Shire  of  Inverness.  This  Loch,  says  a  certain  Writer,2  is 
noted  for  Banco  the  Thane  of  this  country  about  1050,  who 
was  here  murdered  by  Macbeth  the  Tyrant,  on  account  of  a 
Prophecy  that  his  family  should  enjoy  the  crown  for  a  long 
series  of  years,  which  so  happened ;  as  his  son  fled  into  Wales, 
married  the  Daughter  of  the  Prince  of  North  Wales  and  was 
afterwards  Stewart  of  Scotland,  from  whom  the  Royal  family 
of  Stuart  is  descended  ;  on  which  story  Shakespear  founded  his 
Tragedy  of  Macbeth. — I  am,  &c. 

1  The  Standard  was  first  set  up  at  Glen  Finnan,  at  the  head  of  Loch  Shiel, 
about  16  miles  west  of  Fort  William. 

2  Buchanan's  ffist.,  B.  vii.  ch.  x. 


FORT  WILLIAM,  LOCHABER.  99 

LETTER  XIX. 

FORT  AUGUSTUS,  Jime  i$th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  left  Fort  William  on  the  14th  in  the 
afternoon  and  came  in  a  mile  to  the  Castle  of  Inverlochy  :  which 
is  about  40  yards  long  and  30  broad  with  a  round  tower  at 
each  corner,  that  to  the  North  west  is  about  25  feet  in  diameter 
within,  and  the  wall  near  ten  feet  thick,  which  is  called  Cum- 
min's tower,  the  name  of  a  great  Clan  here ;  the  other  three  are 
about  ten  feet  less  in  diameter.  It  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
oldest  Castles  in  Scotland,  and  it  is  not  determined  whether 
Dunstafnage  is  older  or  not ;  they  talk  of  this  as  built  200 
years  before  Christ.  It  was  formerly  a  place  of  Trade  and  was 
Destroyed  by  the  Danes  and  Norwegians. 

In  the  field  to  the  South  east  of  it  the  Marquis  of  Montrose 
in  the  time  of  King  Charles  the  first,  engaged  with  the  Earl  of 
Argyle  and  defeated  him. 

We  went  on  in  the  Military  road,  in  which  the  Number  of 
Miles  from  Edinburgh  .  .  .2  and  from  Fort  Augustus  28  are 
marked,  and  went  8  miles  to  high  bridge  over  the  river  .  .  ,3 
which  here  falls  beautifully  down  the  rocks.  We  had  the  high 
Mountain  Benevis  to  the  South,  on  which  the  Snow  lies  in 
holes  fronting  the  North  the  whole  year. 

We  went  about  two  miles  travelling  to  the  North,  and 
turning  again  to  the  North  east,  we  saw  Achnacarry  the 
site  of  Lochhiers  house  to  the  north  which  was  destroyed  after 
the  Rebellion  was  suppressed.  It  was  on  a  hill  over  the  River 
that  runs  from  Lough  Ark  4  into  Lough  Lochy  which  we  had 
now  to  the  North  west  of  us ;  and  over  this  Lough  we  went  in  a 
road  on  the  side  of  a  hill  for  about  eight  miles ;  this  road  is  very 
pleasant  being  adorned  with  wood  both  above  and  below.  We 
then  travelled  through  a  Vale  for  about  two  miles  and  came  to 
a  beautifull  narrow  lake  called  Loch  Oich,  with  two  or  three 
very  small  Islands  in  it  covered  with  little  clumps  of  trees. 

1  For  plan  and  views,  see  Castellated  Arch,  of  Scot.,  by  MacGibbon  and  Ross, 
1887,  pp.  73,  78. 

2  130  miles  via  Stirling.      Vide  Government  Map,  17/6. 

3  River  Speyon  or  Spean.  4  Loch  Arkeg  or  Arkaig. 


100  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Lough  Garry  falls  into  it  by  a  river  from  the  west ;  on  the 
South  side  of  which  on  this  Lough  stands  Invergarry  Castle 
which  belongs  to  M'Donnald  and  is  commonly  called  Clongarry.1 
This  Estate  was  saved,  as  the  Lord  of  it  was  taken  in  a  ship 
with  a  Commission  from  the  King  of  France ;  but  the  Duke  blew 
up  a  corner  of  the  Castle,  and  a  new  house  is  built  near  it.  His 
younger  son  brought  the  Clan  into  the  field  with  the  Pretender. 

On  the  road  near  opposite  to  this  is  a  Kern  about  sixty  feet 
in  Diameter  being  a  circle  of  stones  round  a  plain  spot. 

In  two  miles  we  came  to  the  river2  by  which  this  lake 
empties  itself  into  Lough  Ness,  and  saw  up  the  Mountains  to 
the  right  the  entrances  to  the  Copper  Mines  which  are  rich,  and 
"tis  said  that  there  is  some  gold  in  the  Ore,  but  so  little  I  sup- 
pose as  not  to  be  worth  extracting. 

We  came  to  Fort  Augustus3  at  the  north  west  angle  of 
Lough  Ness.  It  was  built  under  the  direction  of  General 
Wade  (when  he  was  making  this  great  road)  in  order  to  defend 
the  Country  against  the  Highlanders,  and  to  be  a  Bridle  on 
them.  It  was  given  up  to  the  Rebels,  as  "'tis  said,  when  it 
might  have  very  well  held  out :  they  blew  it  up,  but  it  was 
repaired  at  the  expense  of  ^10,000  and  is  a  very  handsome 
regular  building  consisting  of  four  bastions. 

On  the  16th  I  sett  out  with  Governour  Trappeau4  in  a  boat 
on  Lough  Ness.  They  have  a  gaily 5  here  of  about  twenty  tons 
belonging  to  the  King  in  order  to  supply  the  Fort  with  stores 
which  are  brought  to  the  other  end  of  the  Lake ;  for  the  river  of 
Inverness  is  very  shallow,  and  not  navigable  even  for  small  boats. 

We  first  sailed  to  Glanmorrison  on  the  North  side  of  the 

1  Glengarry.  2  River  Oich. 

3  A  splendidly  built  Roman  Catholic  Monastery  now  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
old  barracks. 

4  Dr.  Johnson  and  Mr.  Boswell,  thirteen  years  later,  also  experienced  Mr. 
Trapaud's  courtesy. 

5  '  Some  time  ago  there  was  a  vessel  of  about  five-and-twenty  or  thirty  tons 
burthen  built  at  the  east  end  of  this  lake,  and  called  the  Highland  Galley.     She 
carries  six  or  eight  pattereroes,  and  is  employed  to  transport  men,  provisions,  and 
baggage  to  Fort-Augustus,  at  the  other  end  of  the  lake.  .  .  .  When  she  made 
her  first  trip,  she  was  mightily  adorned  with  colours,  and  fired  her  guns  several 
times,  which  was  a  strange  sight  to  the  Highlanders,  who  had  never  seen  the 
like  before — at  least,  on  that  inland  lake.' — Burt's  Letters  from  the  Highlands, 
vol.  ii.,  Letter  xxvi. 


FORT  AUGUSTUS,  LOCH  NESS,  GLEN  MORISTON.   101 

lough,  in  which  the  river  Morrison  runs  and  gives  the  name  of 
Invermorrison  to  the  place  where  we  landed.  They  say  the 
river  rises  16  miles  off;  by  the  Map  its  sources  are  near  the 
Western  Sea  towards  Skye,  in  its  way  it  forms  Lough  Cluny. 
The  Laird  of  Glenmorrison  has  a  house  here  ;  and  at  this  place 
there  is  a  very  fine  linnen  Manufactory,  built  out  of  the  for- 
feited Estates.  They  teach  40  Girls  for  three  months  to  Spinn, 
and  then  they  take  in  forty  more ;  they  buy  flax  and  employ 
six  looms.  They  buy  also  yarn  from  the  Country  people,  who 
raise  a  large  quantity  of  it.  It  consists  of  the  principal  Build- 
ing, and  an  office,  for  the  Manufactures  on  each  side.  There 
are  two  more,  one  at  Lough  Carran,  the  other  at  Lough  Broom, 
both  to  the  West. 

From  this  place  we  went  on  and  came  to  Foyers  on  the 
South  side  belonging  to  a  Frasier,  but  now  in  the  hands  of  the 
Government  for  a  debt  due  to  Lord  Lovett.  Almost  all  the 
Estates  on  both  sides  were  forfeited  except -this,  Glencarry,  and 
Glan  Morrison.  Here  is  a  most  beautifull  narrow  glyn  with 
high  rocks  and  wood  on  each  side,  and  a  very  fine  water  fall 
in  one  sheet  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  and  as  I  conjectured 
a  fall  of  near  100  feet.  The  opening  in  the  rock  perpendicular 
over  it,  for  near  50  feet  as  I  guess,  is  so  narrow  that  when  there 
is  a  great  flood  the  fall  is  by  so  much  the  higher,  and  is,  they 
say,  then  extremely  fine. 

A  little  beyond  this  is  the  half  way  house  to  Inverness 
called  the  General's  Hutt,1  where  General  Wade  lived  in  the 
summer  when  the  roads  were  carrying  on.  The  Rebels  blew  it 
up,  and  the  Duke  after  the  battle  of  Culloden  encamped  near 
Fort  Augustus,  the  house  of  the  Fort  being  destroyed  ;  and  at 
the  Fort  Lord  Lovett  was  kept,  untill  he  was  sent  to  London. 

We  proceeded  in  our  voyage,  and  came  on  the  North  side 
to  Urqhuart  Castle 2  wch  belonged  to  the  Cummins,  and  was 

'  The  General's  Hut  ...  is  now  a  house  of  entertainment  for  passengers, 
and  we  found  it  not  ill  stocked  with  provisions.' — Dr.  Johnson' '$,  Journey  to  West, 
hi.,  1773.  This  old  inn  has  entirely  disappeared;  it  stood  a  short  distance  west 
of  the  old  churchyard  of  Boleskine. 

2  See  Transactions  of  the  Gaelic  Society  of  Inverness,  vol.  vi.  p.  152,  for  a 
paper  by  Mr.  William  Mackay,  Inverness,  on  the  '  Early  History  of  the  Glen  and 
Castle  of  Urquhavt.'  Mr.  Mackay  is  now  writing  an  exhaustive  history  of  the 
United  Parish  of  Urquhart  and  Glenmoriston,  including  the  Castle. 


102 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


destroyed  by  Edward  the  first :  It  is  built  round  the  edge  of 
the  rock  which  consist  of  two  summits  one  on  the  west  is  very 
narrow  and  high,  the  other  which  seems  to  be  the  original 
castle  is  lower  and  here  the  habitable  tower  stands.  A  view  of 
it  is  here  seen. 

I  have  heard  of  a  famous  inscription  here  since  I  left  that 
country. 


Castle  of  Urqhuart. 

There  is  a  beautifull  Vale  here  between  the  hills.  We  went 
on  and  landed  at  the  end  of  the  Lough  not  far  from  the  river, 
where  the  Governor's  post-chaise  met  us  and  we  went  towards 
Inverness  and  passed  by  a  Druid  temple l  about  ten  paces  in 
Diameter,  consists  of  flat  stone  about  a  yard  above  the  ground 
set  close  together.  Six  paces  from  this  is  a  circle  of  seven  stones, 
some  of  which  are  fallen,  they  are  nine  paces  apart,  about  a 
yard  broad,  and  five  or  six  feet  high.  General  Pole  and  his 
Lady  came  out  in  their  Post  chaise  to  meet  me  and  we  came  to 
Inverness. — I  am,  &c. 

1  Possibly  the  Stone  Circle  at  roadside  near  Scaniport,  being  Circle  No.  27, 
described  in  Proc.  of  Soc.  Antiq.  Scot.,  vol.  xviii.,  1883-84,  p.  356,  Article 
'  Stone  Circles,'  by  James  Fraser,  C.E.,  Inverness.  The  measurements,  however, 
do  not  agree  ;  it  may  be  Circle  No.  26  at  Aldourie. 


GLEN  URQUHART,  INVERNESS.  103 


LETTER  XX. 

INVERNESS,  June  iJtA,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Inverness  is  situated  on  the  river  of  that 
name,  the  meaning  of  which  is,  that  it  is  the  outlet  of  Lough 
Ness,  and  is  the  Varariae  Jilstuarium  of  the  New  Map.  The  Land 
on  each  side  of  this  river  for  some  way  up  makes  a  very  extra- 
ordinary appearance  in  regular  high  steep  banks,  that  look  like 
ramparts,  and  the  same  for  a  considerable  way  beyond  Inver- 
ness to  the  East,  as  if  they  had  been  formed  by  the  Sea  coming 
up  to  them.  The  Town  of  Inverness  is  on  a  flat  below  the  high 
grounds ;  and  all  that  flat  ground  is  very  rich.  It  is  a  pretty 
good  town  of  two  Streets.  They  have  a  trade  in  imports,  and  an 
export  of  Salted  Salmon  Caught  in  the  river  Beaulieu,  and  also 
near  the  town  in  the  river  Ness.  They  had  an  export  of  Malt 
to  Holland  but  it  is  at  an  end,  and  all  the  Malt  houses  are  in 
ruins.  The  Salt  Salmon  of  Scotland  is  sent  in  great  quantities 
to  London ;  and  a  new  trade  is  lately  opened  of  exporting  it 
to  the  East  Indies.  There  was  here  a  Convent  of  Dominicans,1 
founded  by  Alexander  the  second  in  1233,  wch  I  suppose  was 
at  the  present  parish  Church,  where  there  are  marks  of  some 
ruins,  but  nothing  appears  of  any  great  Antiquity ;  one  part 
of  the  Church  is  used  for  the  English  Kirk,  and  another  for 
the  Eirshe  Kirk,  and  when  a  Chaplain  was  here  they  had  Church 
of  England  service  in  one  of  them  at  another-  hour.  The  Castle 
is  finely  situated  on  an  eminence  over  the  Town ;  the  Old 
Castle  is  a  square  tower  in  the  Common  way  of  building  of 
those  times ;  the  inside  has  been  new  modelled  into  a  Barrack, 
and  General  Wade  built  a  Barrack  on  each  side,  which  with 
the  Governour's  house  in  front  formed  a  Court :  Before  the  old 
Castle  to  the  West  are  the  remains  of  the  Chapel  which  the 
Rebels  in  1745  blew  up  with  part  of  the  Castle.  Some  of  the 

1  '  The  Dominicans  had  their  monastery  and  chapel  dedicated  to  the  Blessed 
Mary,  with  its  cemetry,  on  the  site  of  the  present  chapel-yard.  The  Franciscans' 
convent  occupied  the  ground  still  named  the  Greyfriars'-yard.  Both  were  settled 
here  by  Alexander  II.  about  the  year  1232. — Edward  L  in  the  North  of  Scotland 
[by  Dr.  Taylor  of  Elgin],  1858,  p.  232.  See  paper  on  '  Old  Inverness,'  by  Alex. 
Ross  (Inverness  Field  Club,  nth  August  1882). 


104          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Kings  of  Scotland  formerly  resided  here.  There  was  an  ir- 
regular pentagon  fort  at  the  river  built  by  Cromwell,  and 
destroyed  by  Charles  the  2d.  At  a  basin  to  the  West  of  it  is  a 
handsome  Quay  of  hewn  stone,  but  'tis  a  bad  harbour  to  come 
into. 

General  Poole  with  great  politeness  would  show  me  Fort 
George  whilst  he  was  at  Inverness — it  is  seven  computed  and 
thirteen  measured  miles  to  the  East  of  Inverness. 

In  about  six  miles  I  passed  by  two  Druid  Temples,  one  of 
them  like  that  described  before  I  came  to  Inverness ;  the  other 
about  100  yards  East  of  it,  not  having  the  Outer  Circle  of  Stone  ;x 
A  little  further  is  Castle  Stewart  belonging  to  the  Earl  of 
Murray.  Fort  George  is  situated  at  the  end  of  that  Sandy 
point  which  is  opposite  to  Fortrose.  They  first  thought  of 
building  at  Inverness  on  the  site  of  the  old  Fort,  but  this  place 
was  thought  more  proper  to  defend  the  Harbour ;  it  not  being 
a  mile  across ;  it  was  begun  about  eleven  years  agoe  and  is  the 
design  of  Colonel  Skinner,  who  showed  me  the  Fort :  It  con- 
sists of  two  Bastions  to  the  South  and  a  ravelin ;  of  a  flat 
Bastion  on  each  side,  and  two  Demibastions  to  the  North. 
The  foundation  was  made  on  the  Sand  with  large  stones  well 
cemented  by  Mortar.  There  are  fine  Casemates.  Three  sides 
of  a  Court  for  Barracks  are  finished :  There  is  to  be  a  large 
building  in  front  but  not  joyning  to  them  ;  and  on  each  side  is 
to  be  a  grand  pile  of  Building  for  Stores :  near  the  Entrance 
are  to  be  the  houses  of  the  Governor  and  Deputy  Governor : 
There  are  Sluices  to  let  in  the  Sea  Water  on  the  South  Side, 
and  make  it  an  island :  A  thousand  men  may  defend  it  for 
some  time  but  it  would  take  2000  for  a  long  siege ;  it  can  be 
attacked  at  the  same  time  only  on  one  side :  Some  of  the  large 
Canon  of  the  Toudroiyant  are  brought  to  this  place ;  it  will 
be  finished  in  3  or  4  years : 

I  saw  two  such  Druid  Temples  in  the  way  to  Culloden 
house  as  those  in  the  way  to  the  Fort,  and  exactly  in  the  same 
position  ;  the  place  is  from  them  called  Stony  field.2  Culloden 

1  Stone  Circles,  probably  at  Allanfearn  and  Culloden  Tile  Works,  Nos.  32 
and  33  (or  they  may  be  Nos.  34  and  35,  a  little  further  east),  described  in  Proc.  of 
Soc.  Antiq.  Scot.,  vol.  xviii.  p.  358,  by  James  Fraser,  C.E. 

-  Stoneyfield  of  Raigmore.  There  is  only  one  Circle  there  now,  No.  31, 
Proc.  of  Soc.  Antiq.  Scot.,  vol.  xviii.  p.  358. 


FORT  GEORGE,  CULLODEN.  105 

house  stands  very  low  near  the  bay  and  is  entirely  encompassed 
with  wood.  It  is  built  somewhat  in  the  Castle  way,  and  was 
the  Estate  of  the  late  President  Forbes,  and  now  of  his  son. 
I  then  went  to  the  Field  of  battle ;  the  Pretenders  Army  was 
stretched  from  the  wood  of  Culloden  to  the  South  East  to 
a  wall  of  an  Enclosure:  The  several  clans  forming  distinct 
Columns  for  above  half  a  mile ;  the  Horse  were  behind  on  each 
side ;  and  some  bodies  of  reserve  behind  them  ;  and  beyond  the 
summit  of  the  hill  entirely  out  of  sight  was  the  Pretender  and 
his  attendants,  with  a  large  body  of  reserve  behind,  as  by  the 
plan  x  on  the  other  side,  which  is  said  to  have  been  found  in  the 
pocket  of  one  who  was  slain  in  the  battle.  Our  forces  to  the 
left  were  drawn  up  on  a  rising  ground  much  lower  than  theirs ; 
Stretching  beyond  their  right  line  with  a  small  shallow 
valley  and  the  bed  of  a  winter  stream  between  them ;  it 
extended  across  the  vale  up  the  hill  on  which  the  Enemy 
was  drawn  to  a  Cabbin  where  there  is  a  large  Rock  2  on  the 
top  of  the  Hill ;  we  had  twelve  Canon  in  front,  four  at  each 
end,  and  four  in  the  middle ;  The  Duke  was  behind  the  first 
line  towards  the  right,  and  behind  the  first  line  our  Cohorns 
played ;  'tis  said  the  Enemy  intended  to  wait  our  attack,  but 
our  whole  Artillery  played  so  briskly  on  them  and  galled  them 
so  terribly,  that  their  right,  some  say,  without  order,  advanced 
with  great  fury  in  a  highland  trott  in  a  deep  column  and  in  an 
unsoldierlike  manner  firing  without  order  and  moving  sideways 
with  their  targets  and  broadswords  as  to  stretch  out  to  the 
length  of  our  left  wing ;  we  kept  our  fire  till  they  were  near ; 
but  notwithstanding,  they  broke  the  first  line  of  BarrelFs 
regiment  on  our  left,  and  being  let  in,  they  were  flanked  by 
them,  and  met  by  the  second  line  in  front,  who  'tis  thought  by 
their  fire  killed  several  of  BarrelFs  mixed  with  the  Enemy ;  the 
left  wing  of  the  Enemy  advanced,  but  the  Duke  ordering 
Pultney's  to  shoulder,  "'tis  said  they  went  back,  fearing  the  fire 
reserved  for  them,  as  they  would  have  attacked,  if  we  had 
parted  with  our  fire ;  but  'tis  most  probable  they  were  stopped 
by  the  general  rout,  for  'twas  all  over  in  five  minutes. 

1  For  another  plan,  showing  both  armies  as  they  were  drawn  up  when  the 
attack  began,  see  Guide  to  Culloden  Moor  and  Story  of  the  Battle,  by  Peter 
Anderson,  Inverness. 

2  A  large  boulder,  the  '  Cumberland  Stone.' 


106 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


CULLODEN.  107 

The  Duke  had  in  the  movement  ordered  Poultney's  to  the 
right,  instead  of  the  Scotch  fusileers ;  'tis  said  also  that  they 
threatened  an  attack  on  the  middle,  but  it  is  probable  both  the 
one  and  the  other  were  advancing  on  the  general  route,  which 
they  say  was  occasioned  by  our  Argyleshire  men  breaking  down 
the  Wall  for  the  horse  to  go  round ;  and  perceiving  themselves 
encompassed  by  the  Horse  the  general  rout  ensued ;  the  flight 
was  towards  Inverness,  Culloden  Wood,  and  some  went  off  to- 
wards the  bay ;  the  other  horse,  whether  for  want  of  order  or 
whatever  cause  did  not  pursue  so  quick. 

The  Pretender  soon  rode  off  towards  Lough  ness  and  got  to 
the  house  of  a  Frasier,1  where  Lord  Lovett  was,  and  so  went 
through  the  Highlands  to  the  Isle  of  Skye. 

Where  the  action  with  Barrel's  was,  just  on  the  other  side 
the  fossee  in  the  vale,  I  saw  several  bodies  had  been  burried  from 
50,  as  supposed,  to  100  in  a  hole :  "tis  said  half  a  Battalion 
only  (about  500)  were  engaged  :  The  horse  pursued  every  way ; 
a  Detatchment  was  ordered  into  Culloden  Wood,  and  they  pur- 
sued through  Inverness  into  the  highlands. 

To  Inverness  the  Duke  went  and  lodged  in  the  same  house  2 
where  the  Pretender  had  laid,  and  our  Army  partook  of  all  the 
good  things  they  were  preparing  for  them  on  the  victory  which 
the  people  supposed  was  sure.  They  say  it  was  a  fine  sight  to 
see  the  fleet  and  transports  with  provisions  sail  as  our  army 
moved,  and  cast  Anchor  every  night,  and  brought  provisions 
ashore  to  our  Camp. 

On  the  15th  we  were  encamped  on  the  side  of  the  river 
Nairn,  and  being  the  Duke's  birthday  they  thought  to  attack 
very  early  the  next  morning,  and  sent  out  in  the  night  parties 
to  reconnoitre,  but  two  who  had  appointed  to  meet  missed 
each  other,  and  we  came  on  next  morning  in  a  cold  mist ;  but 
it  cleared  up,  and  the  Duke  had  often  practiced  a  very  fine 
movement :  we  marched  in  four  Columns,  and  by  the  ruff  of  a 
Drum  formed  instantly  into  order  of  Battle.  At  the  same 
time  a  man  of  war  came  up  the  bay  and  cannonaded  : 

1  At  Gorthleg. 

-  Lady  Drummuir's  House,  about  the  middle  of  Church  Street,  on  the  west 
side.  In  Reminiscences  of  a  Clachnacudin  Nonagenarian,  1842,  Lady  Drummuir 
remarked,  '  I  've  had  twa  kings'  bairns  living  with  me  in  my  time,  and,  to  tell 
you  the  truth,  I  wish  I  may  never  hae  another '  (Anderson's  Guide  to  Culloden,  etc. ). 


108          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

I  saw  for  half  a  mile  the  graves  where  they  fell :  They  were 
all  instantly  stripped  by  the  Women  who  went  loaded  with 
Spoils  to  Inverness,  and  the  bodies  were  soon  naked  all  over  the 
field.  It  is  said  the  few  that  fell  of  our  Soldiers  were  not 
stripped :  those  in  the  field  of  Battle  were  killed  by  Musket 
Shot  and  Cannon  Ball ;  the  others  by  the  broad  sword.  Thus 
ended  this  day  of  such  consequence  to  the  British  Dominions, 
and  Crowned  the  Duke  with  immortal  Lawrels.1 — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXI. 

FORT  GEORGE  IN  INVERNESS  SHIRE, 
June  \%th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  20th  we  went  a  mile  by  boat  across 
the  bay,  and  a  little  way  up  the  river  Beaulieu  to  the  Northern 
bank,  where  the  ferry  boat  crosses  the  river,  and  where  we  met 
our  horses ;  We  went  eight  miles  to  the  river  which  falls  into 
the  Frith  of  Cromarty,  having  a  view,  up  Lough  Beaulieu,  i.e. 
the  broad  part  of  the  river  Beaulieu,  of  the  Country  called  Aird 
in  which  Beaulieu  is  situated  on  this  river,  which  is  a  fine 
country  that  belonged  to  Lord  Lovett,  and  where  he  lived. 
Our  road  was  mostly  over  a  very  coarse  Stony  Heath,  many 
spots  of  which  were  cultivated  and  bear  good  Oats  by  picking 
up  the  Stones  and  ploughing  it :  The  river  is  commonly  ford- 
able,  but  after  Rain  they  go  over  in  a  ferry  boat : 

Travelling  about  two  miles  to  the  East  we  came  to  Ding- 
wall,2  a  town  with  one  long  street,  but  the  houses  mostly 
thatched,  they  have  here  some  linnen  Manufactory :  It  is  a 
royal  Borough,  but  its  Priviledge  of  sending  members  to  par- 
liament, with  some  other  towns  is  suspended ;  for  some  Male 
practices  as  'tis  said :  but  is  recoverable  as  I  was  informed  by 
taking  out  a  new  patent ;  There  is  a  church  here,  the  East 
part  of  which  is  ruinous,  it  was  covered  with  a  Gothick  Arch, 

1  For  a  less  biased  account  see  Anderson's  Guide  to  Culloden  Moor  and  Story 
of  the  Battle. 

2  '  The  bishop   of   Ossory,  when  travelling  through  this  country,  stopped  at 
Dingwal,  and  said  he  was  much  struck  and  pleased  with  its  appearance,  for  the 
situation  of  it  brought  Jerusalem  to  his  remembrance  ;  and  he  pointed  out  the  hill 
which  resembled  Calvary.'' — Cordiner's  Antiq.  N.  of  Scot.,  1776,  p.  64. 


BEAULY,  DINGWALL,  STRATHPEFFER.      109 

and  secured  by  a  pointed  Covering  of  hewn  Stone :  At  the 
Angles  and  where  it  joyns  to  the  Church  are  pilasters  which 
make  part  of  the  Segment  of  a  Circle,  with  sort  of  Doric 
Capitals ;  In  an  old  Chapel  is  a  tomb  stone  of  a  person  in  bas 
relief  with  a  sword  hanging  down  and  girt  to  his  left  side,  and 
he  has  a  pointed  staff'  in  the  right  hand  :  To  the  South  of  the 
Church  is  a  stone  enclosure  in  ruins  but  fenced  with  a  Ditch  which 
is  the  burial  place  of  the  family  of  Cromartie  :  There  is  a  hand- 
some Obelisk l  erected  in  it  of  hewn  Stone  ;  the  pedestal  is  about 
twelve  feet  high  and  six  square  ;  and  the  Obelisk  on  it  crowned 
with  a  Cross  without  the  apex,  may  be  about  30  feet  long. 

We  went  on  to  the  North,  and  turning  to  the  East,  we  had 
a  fine  view  of  a  most  beautifull  Country  to  the  West  called 
Strapeffer,  being  a  Vale  about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  a  mile 
Deep  ;  to  the  South  are  two  rough  hills  ;  to  the  North  a  most 
beautifull  gentle  Declivity  from  the  hills,  as  if  laid  out  by  a 
line,  and  it  is  finely  improved ;  at  the  end,  exactly  in  the 
Center,  is  the  Earl  of  Cromartie's  Castle 2  with  woods  about  it, 
and  three  small  valleys  extending  from  the  End  of  this  Vale, 
and  under  Corn. 

We  went  on  and  in  three  miles  from  the  ferry  passed  by 
Fowlis  Sir  Henry  Monroe's,  near  the  bay  of  Cromarty,  which 
Horsley  makes  the  Tuaesis  Estuarium  of  Ptolemy,  but  I  should 
rather  think  it  to  be  Muray  Firth,  if  so  be  Nairn  be  Tua  as 

1  The  Right  Rev.  Robert  Forbes,  M.A.,  in  his  Journals  of  Episcopal  Visita- 
tions of  the  Dioceses  of  Ross  and  Caithness  in  1762,  only  two  years  after  Bishop 
Pococke  had  travelled  through  those  counties,  records  having  been  entertained 
with  several  interesting  reminiscences  of  his  lordship.  He  writes  : — 

'  We  came  to  the  Town  of  Dingwall  .  .  .  and  visited  Baillie  [Colin]  Mac- 
kenzie. .  .  .  He  conducted  us  to  the  Pyramid,  a  Square  or  four-sided  Figure, 
ending  in  a  sharp  point  at  Top,  upon  the  Burying-place  of  the  Earl  of  Cromarty, 
of  about  50  feet  high,  all  of  cut  stone,  which  makes  a  grand  Appearance,  and  was 
much  admired  by  Dr.  Pocock,  the  Bishop  of  Ossory,  in  Ireland,  in  his  travels 
through  Scotland  in  1761  [1760].' — Bishop  Forbes1  s  Journals,  edited  by  the 
Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  Incumbent,  St.  Olaf's  Church,  Kirkwall,  1886,  p.  162. 

George  Mackenzie,  the  celebrated  first  Earl  of  Cromartie  (1630-1714)  was 
buried  here,  and  to  his  memory  this  obelisk  was  erected.  In  1875  his  coffin  was 
found  with  the  letters  G.  E.  C.  on  it.  The  monument  was  thrown  off  the  plumb 
towards  the  north-east  by  an  earthquake  in  1816.  According  to  recent  measure- 
ment the  central  point  of  the  top  is  3  feet  9  inches  out  of  its  true  position,  or 
9  inches  outside  the  base  or  pedestal.  The  south-west  side  is  bound  by  several 
iron  straps  for  its  preservation. 

-  Castle  Leod. 


110  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

he  makes  it,  but  the  ^Estuarium  might  comprehend  both  ; 
And  I  should  think  that  Alata  Castra  was  somewhere  about 
Inverness,  where  there  are  so  many  fine  natural  situations  for 
a  Roman  town,  and  I  imagined  I  saw  something  like  a  roman 
road  in  the  way  to  Fort  George.  Since  the  above  was  writ 
the  new  Itinerary  and  Map  came  to  my  hands  by  which  it 
appears  plainly  that  Vara  ^Estuarium  is  the  Fortu  of  Inverness ; 
Ptoroton  or  Alata  Castra,  the  town  of  Inverness. 

We  came  two  miles  further  to  Culcarney l  Mr.  Monroe^s  in 
the  bay  directly  opposite  to  the  Castle  of  Craighouse,  which 
was  a  Country  seat  belonging  to  the  Bishop  of  Ross.  When 
we  crossed  over  from  Inverness,  we  came  into  Rosshire  which 
extends  from  East  to  West  across  Scotland,  and  was  the  Entire 
Diocese  of  Ross.  The  Cathedral  was  at  the  Chanonry  of  Ross 
to  which  the  parish  of  Rose  Market 2  is  annexed  called  formerly 
Fortrose.  There  are  marks  of  Coals  in  the  Mountains  to 
the  North ;  and  the  late  Sr  Robert  Monroe  had  specimens 
brought  to  him  from  them  of  two  or  three  sorts  of  ore,  but  the 
Veins  were  not  pursued.  I  saw  here  Stones  of  Granite  mixed 
with  red,  blew  and  white :  But  they  have  no  limestone  in  this 
part  of  Ross  Shire :  near  Beaulieu  Lough  I  saw  freestone,3  and 
some  of  it  mixed  with  pebbles,  but  believe  they  were  brought 
from  some  place  about  Fortrose.  More  probably  from  the 
quarry  hereafter  mentioned  near  Cromarty. 

Near  Culcarny  they  lately  found  a  Cave  under  a  Kern,  the 
Mouth  of  it  was  covered  with  a  stone ;  when  Mr.  Monroe 
went  in,  he  saw  Dust  in  the  middle  in  the  shape  something  of 
the  trunk  of  a  Body ;  in  one  corner  an  Urn  with  Dust  in  it ; 
in  another  the  shape  of  a  broad  Short  Spear  or  Instrument 
which  looked  like  iron,  but  was  all  in  dust.  In  the  Mountain 
towards  Fort  Augustus  they  have  found  the  Caper  Keily4  (Cock 
of  the  Wood).  They  are  now  very  rare.  I  saw  the  skin  of 
one  stuffed,  they  are  about  the  size  of  a  Turkey,  the  head  like 
a  Grouse  or  Moor  Fowl,  entirely  black,  except  that  the  Belly  is 
spotted  with  white,  and  it  is  white  under  the  Wings. — I  am,  &c. 

1  Culcairn.     See  Letter  xxxv.  2  Rosemarkie. 

3  The  sandstone  of  Tarradale  quarry,  near  Muir  of  Ord  Station,  answers  to 
this  description  ;  also,  at  an  earlier  date,  Redcastle  quarry. 

4  See  The  Capercaillie  in  Scotland,  Illustrated,  by  J.  A.  Harvie-Brown,  1879. 


EASTER  ROSS,  EDDERTON.  Ill 


LETTER  XXII. 

DlNGWALL  IN  ROSSHIRE,  2Oth  June  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  21st  we  went  three  miles  to  Milcraig1 
(Mr.  Cuthberfs),  a  fine  situation  on  the  foot  of  the  hill,  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  river  and  the  country  below.  Near  it 
is  a  deep  glyn  in  which  their  runs  a  mountain  torrent.2  The 
banks  of  it  are  green  and  most  beautifully  adorned  with  wood. 
We  saw  three  or  four  kerns  as  belonging  anciently  to  the 
heads  of  the  several  villages,  for  their  burial-places.  But  on 
seeing  the  Picts1  houses  since,  I  doubt  whether  they  might  not 
be  the  habitations  of  those  people.  In  three  miles  from  Mill- 
craig,  going  over  very  disagreeable  heathy  mountains,  we  came 
to  a  rivulet,  and  continued  on  about  two  miles,  passed  another 
mountain  torrent,  and  came  into  the  fine  country  which  is  on 
the  Frith  of  Dornock.  I  saw  a  small  Druid  temple  with  two 
or  three  stones  in  the  middle  near  the  rivulet,  and  a  little 
further  some  remains  of  another.  Here  I  observed  grey  granite 
in  large  spots  of  white  and  a  darker  colour. 

We  came  to  Ardmore  Mr.  BaileyX  near  the  river,  where 
we  staid  two  hours,  the  family  being  at  Rosehall.  In  these 
parts  they  find  beds  of  shells  at  a  little  distance  from  the  sea, 
but  not  petrified,  and  they  are  used  for  manure.  We  went 
westward  and  soon  came  to  a  large  Kerne,  the  entrance  to 
which  about  half-way  up  is  visible  with  a  large  stone  over  it. 
If  the  entrances  are  not  on  a  level  with  the  ground  I  look  on 
it  as  a  mark  that  they  were  burial-places ;  if  there  are  great 
ruins,  that  they  were  castles ;  and  if  covered  over  with  green 
sod,  that  they  were  Picts1  houses. 

About  a  mile  farther  we  came  to  Odonaliskey  or  Donis- 
kaig,  a  very  curious  -  Pictish  round  castle.3  (See  plan  next 
page.)  The  walls  at  bottom  with  the  passage  between  take  up 

1  Near  Alness.  2  River  Alness. 

3  The  name  of  this  Broch  is  variously  written — Dun  Agglesag,  Dun-alishaig, 
Done-Alliscaig,  etc.  See  Maitland's  Hist.  Scot.,  1757,  vol.  i.  p.  145;  Ancient 
Monuments  and  Fort,  in  Highlands,  by  James  Anderson  ;  Archaeologia  (Lond. ), 
vol.  v.  p.  248  ;  Antiq.  North  of  Scot.,  by  Cordiner,  1780,  p.  118  ;  Scot,  in  Pagan 
Times,  by  Dr.  Joseph  Anderson,  1883,  p.  185. 


112 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


twelve  feet  and  a  half  in  thickness.  Over  the  door,  which  is 
about  three  feet  wide,  is  a  stone  in  shape  of  a  pyramid  ;  what 
remains  is  about  fifteen  feet  high.  Eight  feet  and  a  half  from 
the  outside  is  an  entrance  on  each  side  two  feet  broad ;  that 
to  the  right  leads  to  a  room  which  is  a  kind  of  oval,  five  feet 
wide  in  the  broadest  part,  and  sixteen  feet  long,  to  which 


i  i  rr 


20, 


30. 


A    SCALE,  or   ij.0  FOOT 

Plan  of  an  Antient  Castle. 

there  seems  to  have  been  another  entrance  at  the  other  end, 
and  from  that  a  passage  is  continued  round  to  the  entrance 
opposite  to  the  gateway ;  this  passage  is  two  feet  broad. 
Opposite  to  this  entrance,  I  observed  on  the  outside,  there  had 
been  a  square  hole,  now  filled  up  with  stone,  merely  to  give 


EDDERTON,  KINCARDINE,  ROSEHALL. 

light ;  continuing  round  there  is  a  passage  three  feet  six  inches 
wide,  with  four  steps  down  to  the  middle  on  the  other  side, 
where  there  is  another  entrance  from  the  court,  and  from  this 
I  suppose  there  was  such  an  apartment  as  on  the  other  side. 
The  court  is  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  The  building  sets 
in  and  lessens  every  tier  on  the  outside,  and  it  seemed  to  me  to 
be  strait  up  within.  There  is  no  mortar  on  the  building,  but 
the  stones  are  fine  and  laid  so  as  to  bind  one  another.  The 
round  castles  at  Bernera  are  of  this  kind,  which  are  engraved 
in  Gordon.1  We  came  in  three  miles  to  Kincaron,2  where  there 
is  a  church,  and  passed  the  river  called  Spatts  Carn,3  which  was 
deep.  There  is  a  boat  that  carries  over  one  horse,  but  we 
forded  it.  We  passed  several  little  torrents  and  had  a  very 
pleasant  ride  in  sight  of  the  river,  which  as  far  as  the  tyde 
goes  they  call  a  kyle,4  the  hills  in  many  parts  being  covered 
with  wood ;  so  that  ascending  a  height  we  had  a  most  delightfull 
view  of  a  very  fine  country,  and  of  the  winding  of  the  river^ 
which  was  then  full  after  the  rain,  and  appeared  most  beautifull. 
We  crossed  over  to  Rosehall  in  Sutherland  in  a  boat  to 
Mr.  Bayley's,5  allied  to  Lord  Reay's  family,  sending  our  horses 
to  cross  two  rivers6  that  meet  here.  These  two  rivers  rise 
within  eight  computed  miles  of  the  western  sea,  that  is  about 
sixteen  measured  miles.  They  have  no  miles  here  different 
from  the  English  in  measure,7  but  the  acre  is  five  perches  more 
than  the  English.8 

1  The  Brochs  of  Glenbeg,  near  Bernera.     See  p.  93.  -  Kincardine. 

3  Strath  Charrain  [River],  i.e.  the  Strath carron  River. 

4  Strathkyle  ;  south  side  of  the  Kyle  of  Sutherland.     The  Bishop  must  have 
passed  near  the  remains  of  the  Broch  or  Pictish  Tower  at  Birchfield,  Strathkyle. 
The  inside  is  still  standing,  5  or  6  feet  in  height  and  33  feet  in  diameter.     The 
outside  diameter  was  about  65  feet. 

5  Mr.  Baillie  of  Ardmore  and  Rosehall  was  married  to  Janet,  eldest  daughter 
of  Col.  Hugh  MacKay  of  Bighouse.     Col.  Hugh  was  the  second  son  of  George, 
Lord  Reay,  and  came  to  the  estate  of  Bighouse  by  marrying  Elizabeth,  daughter 
and  heiress  of  George  MacKay  of  Bighouse. 

6  Rivers   Oykell  and  Cassley.      The  Cassley  rises  within  3  miles  of  Loch 
Glencoul,  the  head  of  Edderachylis  Bay ;  and  the  Oykell  within  6  miles  of  the 
same  loch,  and  another  branch  of  it  within  5  miles  of  Loch  Broom. 

7  On  the  MS.  is  written,  '  I  think  the  Highland  miles  are  not  above  the  pro- 
portion of  2  to  3  as  in  England. — [Initialled]  D.  B.'    See  notes,  pp.  68,  69,  76,  1 18. 

8  The  Scots  acre  is  to  the  English  acre  as  I '26 12  to  I  ;  or  the  Scots  acre  = 
202  English  poles,  the  English  acre  =  160  poles. 

H 


114  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Rosehall  is  a  pleasant  situation  about  the  place  where  the 
tyde  ends.  There  are  fine  meadows  on  each  side.  I  walked 
out  from  the  most  northern  of  the  two  rivers,  arid  about  half 
a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  it  there  is  a  fine  waterfall  after  rain. 
The  first  fall l  is  about  ten  feet,  it  then  runs  some  way  and 
tumbles  down  by  several  falls  and  declivities  for  forty  or  fifty 
feet  in  a  large  stream,  and  two  smaller  on  one  side  of  it.  Over 
it  is  a  burial-place,  where  probably  was  a  church  or  chapel 
belonging  to  an  oblong  square  castle  near  it,  called  Dun 
Agharn  Eski 2  (the  castle  of  the  field  of  the  cascade),  and  near 
it  is  either  a  kern  or  Picts'  house  or  a  ruined  round  castle. 
They  catch  salmon  here  by  holding  nets  and  driving  in  the 
salmon  as  described  at  Kilmare  in  Kerry.  On  the  river  is  a 
castle  or  two  of  the  kind  described  at  Duniskaig,  and  one  or 
two  more  to  the  south  of  the  mountain ;  one  is  at  Glanmick 
on  a  morass  on  the  river  Cartigo,  and  two  at  Arsbrook  and 
Douney,  on  the  river  Carran.  There  is  a  road  to  the  south- 
west to  Lough  Broom,  where  there  is  another  spinning  school 
of  the  kind  of  that  mentioned  at  Glanmorrison,  and  there  is 
another  at  Lough  Carran.  About  eight  miles  south  of  this 
place  is  the  mountain  called  Scarre  in  Lappik,3  on  the  top  or 
which  are  several  sorts  of  shells,  mostly  of  the  welk  kind,  and 
not  petrified ;  there  is  also  a  white  stone  said  to  be  almost 
transparent,  which  I  conjecture  to  be  the  white  flint.  They 
have  a  different  species  of  trout  in  most  of  their  rivers  here. 
At  a  place  called  Craighalian,4  at  Coleray,4  by  which  we  passed, 
the  Earl  of  Montrose  was  defeated  by  Colonel  Strahun,  and 
escaping  to  the  house  of  M'Cloud  5  at  Assunt  to  the  south-west, 
he  was  sold  for  ,£1000,  on  which  account  the  family  became 
infamous,  dwindled  to  nothing,  and  are  no  more.  This,  they 
say,  is  the  only  instance  of  a  Scotchman  betraying  one  of  his 

1  The  Falls  of  Cassley,  near  Rosehall  House. 

-  The  broch  Dun  Achadh-  or  Ach'-an-Eas,  Achness. 

3  Scurr  na  Lapaich,  south  of  Loch  Monar.     Height,  3773  feet. 

4  Creag-a-chaoinidh,    the   Rock   of    Lamentation    or    Mourning,    west   from 
Culrain  ;  or  possibly  an  older  name,  Creag  Chailliun,  Rock  of  Woods. 

5  See  Appendix  to  Bishop  Pococke's    Tour  through   Sutherland,   1760,  for 
Privy  Council  Records  relating  to  Macleod  of  Assynt.     Ed.  by  D.  W.  Kemp, 
1887. 


ROSEHALL,  SUTHERLAND.  115 

own  country ;  though,  I  believe,  there  is  another  that  is  more 
remarkable.1 

The  Frith  of  Dornock,  called  by  Horsley  the  Frith  of 
Tayne,  is  supposed  to  be  the  old  Vara  Estuarium  of  Ptolemy, 
but  it  is  certainly  the  Loxa  of  the  new  map ;  and  here,  when 
we  crossed  over,  we  came  from  the  Caledonia  to  the  east,  and 
from  the  Sylva  Caledonia  to  the  west  from  Rosshire  into 
Sutherland,  the  Cantae  of  Ptolemy,  having  been  in  those 
countries  ever  since  we  came  to  Ardes,  except  that  at  Inverness 
we  just  entered  into  the  country  of  the  Vacomagi.  In  the 
west,  to  the  north  of  Mull  were  the  Creones,  falling  in  with 
the  north  part  of  Argyleshire  and  the  west  part  of  Rosshire ; 
to  the  north  of  these  again  were  the  Carnonacae,  being  the 
west  part  also  of  Rosshire  ;  opposite  to  the  two  first  is  the  isle 
of  Skye,  the  ancient  Dumna.  Loch  Ewe  in  Rosshire  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  river  Itys  of  the  Creones ;  Lough  Broom  is 
probably  the  Volsas  between  the  Creones  and  the  Carnonacae, 
and  Lough  Ennard  the  river  Nabaus,  between  the  Carnonacae 
and  the  Catina,  who  inhabited  the  north-west  part  of  Scotland, 
now  the  north-west  part  of  Sutherland. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXIII. 

ROSEHALL,  IN  SUTHERLAND, 
zzdjztne  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  22d  I  went  towards  Lough  Schin, 
eight  miles  distant,  and  in  the  way,  at  a  rivulet,  came  to  Dun 
Cor,2  another  such  stone  fortress,  but  destroyed ;  it  was  thirty 
feet  in  diameter  within,  and  the  walls  six  feet  thick.  We  came 
at  the  end  of  Lough  Schin  to  Mr.  Monroe^s,3  having  passed  by 
a  place  a  mile  from  it,  where  they  say  there  was  a  battle  in 
very  ancient  times ;  and  there  are  two  or  three  small  stones  set 
up  on  end,  which  they  say  is  the  tomb  of  a  great  man  who 

1  The  betrayal  of  Sir  William  Wallace. 

2  Doir-a-Chatha,  or  Durcha,  north  of  Rosehall,  below  Cnoc-a-Choire. 

3  Mr.  Munro  of  Achany. 


116  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

fell.  I  went  on  the  lough  to  an  island,1  where  we  saw  the  nests, 
eggs,  and  young  of  the  gulls;2  and  one  nest  and  eggs  of  a 
smaller  sea-bird.3  This  island  is  frequented  by  wild  geese  and 
ducks.  We  went  about  two  miles  on  the  lake,  and  came  to 
such  another  stone  fortress  on  a  height.  It  is  about  thirty  feet 
in  diameter  within ;  the  walls  seemed  to  have  been  about  eight 
feet  thick,  except  in  front,  where  they  appear  to  have  been 
twelve,  and  where  there  is  such  an  oval  room  on  each  side  as 
described, — nine  feet  long  and  four  feet  broad ;  and  on  one 
side  I  could  see  some  signs  of  a  passage  between  the  walls, 
there  seemed  to  have  been  an  outwork  before  the  entrance. 
About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  south  is  another,  rather 
smaller,  and  much  ruin'd,  the  walls  of  which  seemed  to  have 
been  thicker  at  the  entrance,  but  no  sort  of  sign  of  any 
rooms  in  it.  Here  we  went  into  a  Highland  cabbin,  in  which 
there  were  five  apartments,  one  at  the  entrance  seemed  to  be 
for  the  cows,  another  beyond  it  for  the  sheep,  and  a  third,  to 
which  there  was  an  entrance  only  at  the  end  of  the  house,  for 
other  cattle ;  to  the  left  was  the  principal  room,  with  a  fire  in 
the  middle,  and  beyond  that  the  bed-chamber,  and  a  closet 
built  to  it  for  a  pantry ;  and  at  the  end  of  the  bed-chamber, 
and  of  the  house,  a  round  window  to  let  out  the  smoak,  there 
being  no  chimney.  The  partitions  all  of  hurdle-work  so  as  one 
sees  through  the  whole.  A  great  pot  of  whey  was  over  the 
fire,  of  which  they  were  making  Frau.4  They  have  a  machine 
like  that  which  they  put  into  a  churn,  with  stiff'  hairs  round  it,5 
this  they  work  round  and  up  and  down  to  raise  a  froth,  which 
they  eat  out  of  the  pot  with  spoons,  and  it  had  the  taste  of 
new  milk ;  then  the  family,  servants  and  all,  sat  round  it,  and 
eat,  the  mistress  looking  on  and  waiting.  She  brought  us  a 
piggin  of  cream,  and  drank  to  me,  and  we  drank  of  it  round. 
The  dairy  is  in  a  building  apart.  This  was  contrived  that  I 
might  see  the  Highland  manners.  They  have  here  a  great 
number  of  foxes  and  hares,  the  skins  of  which  are  very  fine ; 

1  Eilean  Donuil,  or  Donald's  island. 

2  The  Great  Black-backed  Gull,  Larus  Marimis,  L. 

3  Grey  Lag  Goose,  Aurerferus,  L. 

4  Fro'  or  Froth,  still  made  in  some  districts.     Frau  [omhan],  whisked  cream, 
is  or  was  a  Christmas  dish. 

5  A  whisk  of  horse-hair  ;  Gaelic,  loinid. 


SUTHERLAND.  117 

the  hares  are  of  a  light  colour  on  the  back,  and  the  bellies 
are  quite  white.  I  was  told  there  are  some  all  over  white  in 
the  winter.  A  few  swans l  come  here  every  year  in  the  hard 
weather ;  and  a  great  number  came  in  the  year  1738,  when  the 
winter  was  very  cold,  but  it  is  difficult  to  shoot  them.  They 
have  great  plenty  of  red  deer,  and  of  the  roe  deer.  Mr. 
Monroe  shot  in  the  upper  part  of  the  Kyle  of  Dornock  an 
extraordinary  sea-bird,2  which  dived  very  readily.  It  is  as  big 
as  a  goose,  and  much  like  it,  except  that  the  bill,  about  four 
inches  long,  is  pointed ;  it  is  black  with  a  spot  of  grey  under 
its  throat,  and  one  on  each  side  about  the  middle  of  the  neck ; 
it  is  spotted  down  the  back  with  a  streak  of  brown  on  each 
side,  there  are  larger  spaces  towards  the  wings,  which  are  also 
spotted,  except  that  the  long  feathers  are  black ;  the  belly  is 
whitish,  but  with  yellow  streaks  up  round  the  broad  part  of  the 
neck,  it  being  all  black  on  the  back  of  the  neck  between  these 
streaks ;  the  spots  on  the  back  are  mostly  of  an  oblong  square 
figure,  and  of  a  dirty  white,  the  grey  of  the  neck  being  formed 
with  such  streaks.  This  is  the  only  bird  of  the  kind  that  had 
been  seen.  There  are  many  spots  of  fine  ground  in  this  country, 
mostly  on  the  side  of  rivers  and  streams,  and  some  large  ones 
up  the  sides  of  hills.  They  breed  much  young  cattle  and 
sheep,  but  not  so  many  I  think  as  the  ground  wou'd  bear.  At 
night  they  house  the  sheep  all  the  year,  and  the  poorer  people 
shear  in  May  and  November,  who  have  not  grass  for  them 
abroad.  On  this  side  of  the  Kyle  of  Dornock  they  have  a 
whin  stone  and  grey  granite.  I  this  day  met  an  aged 
person,  who  had  much  the  look  of  a  gentlewoman.  She  had 
about  her  shoulders  a  striped  blanket,  and  saluted  us  genteely. 
She  was  followed  by  a  maid  without  a  cap  or  fillet,3  with  a 
bundle  at  her  back ;  this  was  a  sort  of  decayed  proprietor,  who, 
I  suppose,  was  going  round  a- visiting ;  and  as  they  are  very 
hospitable  to  all,  so  they  are  not  uncivil  to  such  unfortunate 
persons. 

On  the  24th,  I  set  out  and  went  near  the  south  end  of  the 

1  The  Hooper  or  Wild  Swan,  Cygnus  musicus,  L. 

The  Black-throated  Diver,  Colymbus  arcticus,  in  summer  plumage. 
3  On  the  MS.  is  written,  'A  woman  without  any  cap,  but  only  a  ribband  round 
her  hair,  professes  herself  to  be  a  maiden  in   the   Highlands  of  Scotland.— 


118  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

lake,  passed  by  one  of  the  same  ruined  castles  which  they  call 
Dunes,  and  saw  another  at  a  distance  to  the  south.  They  are 
as  common  here  as  Raths  in  Ireland,  and  probably  there  was 
one  to  every  village.  I  crossed  the  ferry  over  the  river  by 
which  the  lake  empties  itself  into  the  kyle,  and  went  half  a 
mile  to  the  house  of  one  Mr.  Mackay,1  the  minister  of  Larig, 
who  has  an  extent  of  parishes  thirty  English  miles  in  length  on 
both  sides  of  the  lake,  and  only  ^50  a  year,  but  the  land  is 
commonly  let  rather  cheap  to  the  minister.  He  had  sent  to 
invite  me  to  his  house  ;  he  brought  cakes  and  a  bottle  of  wine, 
and  desired  me  to  bless  the  entertainment.  Having  asked  if 
we  had  breakfasted,  as  we  had,  he  went  on  with  me.  We  came 
to  a  large  brook 2  which  falls  from  the  north-east  into  the  lough, 
we  crossed  it  often,  and  went  often  into  it  to  avoid  the  cutts 
made  by  the  floods ;  from  this  river  we  ascended  over  the  foot 
of  Ben  Clibrig,3  the  Earl  of  Sutherland's  forrest.  Here  it  was 
like  the  month  of  November ;  we  saw  a  breach  that  was  made 
by  a  spring  like  a  flood  gushing  out  at  the  side  of  a  mountain. 
We  came  to  another  rivulet  and  sat  down  in  a  sheltered  place 
half  a  mile  beyond  some  sheelings  or  huts,  to  which  they  come 
in  the  summer  with  their  cattle.  We  asked  about  the 
accommodation,  which  as  it  did  not  please  us,  we  went  on  as 
mentioned.  We  here  took  our  repast ;  some  boys  came  near 
with  their  cattle,  and  afterwards  two  others ;  we  invited  them 
to  take  share,  and  when  we  were  going  away,  they  said  their 
mother  was  coming  with  some  refreshments,  and  immediately 
she  appeared  at  a  good  distance ;  she  carried  a  piggin  of  cream, 
and  her  maid  followed  her  with  a  small  tub  covered,  which  was 
warm  whey.  She  drank  to  us,  and  we  took  it  round  and  tasted 
of  the  whey  ;  the  minister  conducted  me  across  a  hill  to  another 

[Initialled]  D.  B.'  See  note,  p.  113.  Sir  Walter  Scott  adorns  Ellen  of  Loch 
Katrine  with  the  silken  riband — 

'  A  chieftain's  daughter  seem'd  the  maid  ; 
Her  satin  snood,  her  silken  plaid, 
Her  golden  brooch,  such  birth  betray'd. 
And  seldom  was  a  snood  amid 
Such  wild  luxuriant  ringlets  hid.' 

The  Lady  of  the  Lake,  Canto  i.,  Stanza  19. 
See  also  Canto  iii.,  Stanza  5  (end). 

1  Rev.  Thomas  Mackay,  Lairg.     See  Pref.  to  Life  of  Gen,  Hugh  Mackay, 
by  John  Mackay.  2  River  Terry.  3  Ben  Clibrec. 


SUTHERLAND.  119 

rivulet  where  they  joyn,  and  running  towards  the  mouth  of  it 
between  deep  rocks  adorned  with  trees,  it  falls  into  Lough 
Naivern L  four  miles  lower ;  I  observed  on  the  bottom  of  it  and 
on  each  side  fine  flags  lying  a  little  sloping  from  the  perpen- 
dicular; I  came  to  another  rivulet  which  runs  through  fine 
marshes  into  this  lough,  to  which  the  salmon  come  up.  It  falls 
by  a  river  into  the  North  Sea  at  the  Bay  of  Farr ;  we  came  to 
Mowdale.  The  mountains  here  abound  much  in  red  deer ;  the 
roe  deer  frequent  more  where  there  are  woods,  and  always  bring 
two  fawns,  as  I  was  told,  but  doubt  of  it.  The  males  of  the 
red  deer  are  distinguished  by  different  names  in  Eirshe  and 
English  according  to  their  ages.2  The  first  year  a  fawn ; 
second,  Procha  (Pritchet) ;  third,  Kiligavir,  that  is  two 
branches  ;  fourth,  Ostoun  ;  fifth,  Dougolag,  that  is  two  at  top. 
I  was  told  they  were  not  further  distinguished  by  name,  tho"1 
an  antler  is  added  every  year  till  the  twelfth,  when  they  are 
called  in  Eirshe,  .  .  .  ,  in  English,  Harts.  When  I  came  to 
Durness,  I  observed  besides  the  shells  common  to  most  shores, 
that  large  shells  of  Echine  are  thrown  ashore,  small  Trochi,  a 
large  cockle,  bright,  red,  yellow,  and  white  chamey,  and  a  large 
white  one  about  five  inches  long  which  are  very  rare,  and  the 
limpet  called  the  fool's  cap,  some  with  the  point  at  one  side, 
others  nearer  the  middle,  the  former  are  very  rare.  There  are 
also  on  the  coast  fine  small  pebbles  of  different  colours.  They 
find  also,  drove  ashore  here,  a  tender  spunge  in  branches  some- 

1  Loch  Naver  or  Navern. 

2  Dr.  Pococke  has  preserved  to  our  Gaelic  vocabulary  distinguishing  names 
for  deer,  some  of  which  are  obsolete,  if  not  altogether  forgotten.     His  spelling, 
as  usual,  is  phonetic. 

Procha,  Procach  ;    '  Damh  feidh  6g,  a  year-old  stag. ' — Rob  Donrfs  Poems, 
Glossary,  p.  357.     Also  in  the  hunting  song,  '  Soraidh  na  Fridhe  '— 
'  Theid  sinne  gu  socrach 
Air  ionnsuidh  nam  Procach, 
'S  o  neamhnuid  ar  'n  acfuinn, 
Bithidh  'n  asnaichean  dearg.' — Rob  Donn,  p.  17. 

Kiligavir,  probably  Gille  da  mheur,  or  Gille  da  bhior,  the  two-fingered  one. 
Ostoun,  probably  Osdoun,  the  dun  stag.     '  Os  '  occurs  in  the  old  unpublished 
hunting  songs  of  Sutherland  ;  also  in  Ossian's  poems. 

'  Lean-sa  'n  os  bhallach  air  Cromla.' — Fionnghal,  D  i.,  line  137. 
Doulgolag  (or  it  may  read  in  the  MS.  Dongolag),  probably  Donn  da  lub,  the 
double-looped  dun  one ;  or  Don-gobhlach,  the  forked  dun  one. 

Blank  in  the  MS.     Cabrach,  or  Udlach.     See  Rob  Donn,  Glossary,  p.  360. 


120  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

what  resembling  the  ends  of  stags1  horns,  and  I  have  seen  other 
spunges  since  that  time  in  these  shapes,  which  show  in  what 
manner  the  spunge  grows,  and  in  other  seas  to  greater  perfec- 
tion. They  often  see  large  whales l  not  far  from  the  shoar. 

They  have  great  plenty  of  venison  of  red  deer  in  this 
country,  so  it  is  commonly  brought  to  table  in  most  houses, 
and  even  when  it  is  not  fat,  is  excellent  food  minced  and 
dressed  like  a  hash,  which  they  call  Minced  Collop.  It  is  said 
that  there  are  no  rats 2  in  Sutherland,  except  in  some  places  near 
the  sea,  where  they  have  been  brought  by  ships. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXIV. 

DURNESS,  ibthjune  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  25th  I  set  forward,  and  soon  came 
to  a  lough  which  seems  to  be  Lough  Culset 3  in  the  map,  which 
they  call  four  miles  long ;  there  are  about  a  dozen  islands  in  it, 
and  it  winds  and  appears  like  a  beautiful  river,  and  if  I  mistake 
not  falls  into  Lough  Loyal ;  the  distance  between  this  and 
Strathmore  and  Mowdale  seems  to  be  made  too  great  in  the 
map.  After  travelling  near  the  east  of  this  lake,  we  came  soon 
to  the  ascent  over  the  hill  which  leads  to  the  river  Strathmore, 
to  which  we  descended.  The  river  Strathmore  rises  out  of 

1  For  an  account  of  various  captures  of  whales  of  different  species  on  the 
Sutherland  coasts   see  A    Vertebrate  Fauna  of  Sutherland  and   Caithness   (in 
the  press),  by  J.  A.  Harvie-Brown,  Esq.,  and  J.  E.  Buckley,  Esq. 

2  'Ther  is  not  a  ratt  in  Sutherland,  and  if  they  doe  come  thither  in  shipps 
from  other  pairts  (which  often  happeneth),  they  die  presentlie,  how  soone  they 
doe  smel  of  the  aire  of  that  cuntrey.     And  (which  is  strange)  their  is  a  great  store 
and  abundance  of  them  in  Catteynes  [Caithness],  theverienixt  adjacent  province, 
divyded  onlie  by  a  litle  strype  or  brook  from  Southerland.     Ther  are  manie  wild 
catts  in  Southerland,   which  the  inhabitants  doe  hunt    among  the  rocks  and 
mountains.' — The  Earldom  of  Sutherland,  by  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  written  1630 
(first  published  1813),  p.  7.     See  Franck's  Northern  Memoirs,  1658,  Edinburgh, 
ed.    1821,   pp.   217,   218;    Capt.   Burt's  Letters  from   Scotland,   1728,  vol.   i. 
Letter  iii.;  Old  Stat.  Ac.  of  Scot.,  vol.  iv.,  p.  76;  vol.  x.  p.  269. 

3  Loch  Coulside— not   Culset — falls   into  Loch  Loaghal ;   but   Dr.  Tococke 
here  describes  Loch  Meadie,  which  was  directly  in  his  route  from  Mudale  to 
Strathmore. 


SUTHERLAND.  121 

Mount  Coarness,1  where  it  forms  a  large  sort  of  a  theatre  some 
way  up  the  hill  there ;  here  the  late  Lord  Reay  used  to  have  a 
grand  hunt  every  August.  They  compute  a  thousand  red  deer 
in  that  country,  and  that  four  or  five  hundred  of  them  have 
been  drove  into  this  part  by  about  a  hundred  men  who  drive 
the  mountains,  and  they  have  shot  sixty  of  them  in  a  day. 
The  river  Strathmore  rises  to  the  west,  and  after  it  comes  out 
of  this  glyn  it  turns  to  the  north,  where  a  stream  falls  in  from 
the  Glyn  Bellachnamerlach 2  (the  Glyn  of  the  Lough  of 
Theives). 

From  this  it  is  not  above  eight  of  the  computed  miles  (that 
is,  sixteen  English)  to  Lough  Schin  ;  and  here  is  the  line  that 
seems  most  convenient  for  a  road  through  the  kingdom  to 
go  south  by  Rosehall,  then  to  Lough  Broom,  to  which  there  is 
a  tolerable  road  now.  The  way  afterwards  seems  to  be  most 
easy  by  Lough  Vrine,  Lough  Tanide,  by  the  river  to  Lough 
Clair,  to  Lough  Contin  up  that  river,  and  to  cross  the  moun- 
tains to  Bernis  Water  to  Lough  Glasletir,  to  get  to  the  river 
that  falls  out  of  Lough  Assarig,  from  that  to  a  small  stream 
that  falls  into  Lough  Cluny,  which  crosses  the  road  from  Glen- 
morrison  to  Bernera,  opposite  to  the  Isle  of  Skye,  to  go  down 
Lough  Cluny  river  to  that  which  comes  to  Lough  Loyne,  and 
so  by  that  into  the  road  to  Fort  Augustus  from  Bernera,  and 
then  there  are  roads  to  Fort  Augustus  and  Fort  William ; 
which  line  would  be  of  infinite  advantage  to  the  kingdom,  as 
they  would  make  roads  into  it  from  many  parts,  both  from  the 
east  and  west ;  and  the  most  eastern  parts  would  go  to  the 
road  which  is  tolerable  all  along  the  eastern  coast. 

We  stopped  at  Strathmore,  and  travelled  by  that  river  to 
Doundor,  called  in  the  map,  Dundor  Nadilla ;  it  is  the  most 
entire  round  castle  I  have  seen,  seeming  to  be  perfect  in  one 
part  about  thirty  feet  high.  Every  tier  of  stone  sets  in  on  the 
outside  about  an  inch.  The  top  is  crowned  with  long  even 
stones ;  it  consists  of  two  walls.  There  is  a  set-off  within  of 
one  foot  three  inches,  where  the  inner  wall  is  three  feet  six 
inches  thick  ;  the  outer  wall  four  feet  three  inches  at  bottom, 
but  both  of  them  lessen  to  two  feet  five  inches ;  and  the  space 

1  Coir-an-essie,  or  Coir  nan  eas  (Coirean  easach  of  Ordnance  Survey). 

2  Gleann  Beallach  na  meirleach. 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

between  the  walls  is  two  feet  five  inches ;  the  court  within  is 
twenty-six  feet  six  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  divided  by  the 
stones  laid  across  into  three  stories,  and  opposite  to  the 
entrance,  it  is  open  for  about  two  feet  and  a  half  in  breadth, 
divided  in  three  parts  by  the  floor.  In  the  middle  on  the  left 
hand  it  is  the  same,  as  it  was  probably  in  the  right,  which  is 
now  ruined.  These  seem  to  have  been  below  as  entrances,  and 


View  of  a  round  Castle  [Dun-Dornadilla]. 

above  to  give  light ;  and  being  divided  in  this  manner  into  four 
parts  to  each  story,  there  might  be  twelve  separate  places  for 
twelve  families  for  lodgings  in  time  of  danger,  and  they  might 
have  some  light  doors  to  them.  However,  it  seems  not  to  have 
been  very  strong  except  at  the  bottom,  and  now  the  support  of 
the  circle  being  lost,  as  it  is  ruinous,  it  is  in  a  very  tottering 
condition.  It  is  built  on  an  eminence  over  the  river,  on  which 
side  the  foundation  is  ten  or  twelve  feet  lower  than  in  the  other 


SUTHERLAND. 


123 


part,  as  it  is  laid  near  the  bottom  of  the  hillock.     A  view  of 
the  inside  and  outside  are  here  seen.1 

The  hill  we  crossed  to  Strathmore  is  a  foot  of  Benhope. 


Inside  view  of  a  round  Castle  [Dun-Dornadilla]. 

Under  the  foot  of  this  mountain  we  travelled,  which  is  a  fine 
natural  slope,  with  perpendicular  rocks  over  it,  resembling 
ruined  buildings.  This  continues  on  all  under  the  mountain 

1  These  sketches  of  Dun-Dornadilla,  or  Dun-Dornigil,  are  the  earliest  known. 
For  Views  see  Archaologia  (Lond.),  vol.  v.  p.  216 ;  Cordiner's  Antiq.  North  of 
Scot.,  1780,  p.  105;  Henderson's  Agric.  of  Sutherlatul,  1812,  App.,  p.  172; 
Logan's  Scottish  Gall.,  1831,  vol.  ii.  p.  26;  Anderson's  Scot,  in  Pagan  Times, 
1883,  p.  185  ;  Pococke's  Tour  through  Sutherland,  edited  by  D.  W.  Kemp, 
Appendix.  See  also  Pope  of  Reay's  Ace.  in  Pennant's  Tour,  1769,  p.  341  ;  Pen- 
nant's Tour,  1772,  p.  393;  Archceologia  Scotica,  1883,  vol.  v.  pt.  i.  ;  Sutherland 
Brochs,  by  Rev.  Dr.  Joass,  pp.  95-118. 


124  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

itself  with  a  sort  of  terrace  on  it,  from  which  the  mountain 
rises  most  beautifully,  being  divided  by  several  pyramidal 
risings  with  little  hillocks  between  them  to  the  number  of 
above  twenty,  in  which  little  cascades  of  water  fall  down  after 
rain  in  a  very  beautifull  manner.  And  before  we  came  to  this 
part  we  saw  a  sheet  of  water  falling  down  into  a  hollow  about 
a  hundred  feet,  and  'tis  said  falls  fifty  more  out  of  sight.  All 
the  cascades  after  the  morning  showers  appeared  very  beautifull. 
A  little  lower,  Strathmore  falls  into  Lough  Hope,  which  is 
fresh  water,  and  empties  itself  by  a  river  into  Lough  Eribol  to 
which  we  crossed  over  a  foot  of  a  mountain.  I  here  sent  my 
horses  back  to  Strathmore,  and  so  round  about  to  Tongue  to 
avoid  the  bog  of  the  Moan,  and  so  to  Thyrso.  Over  that 
Lough  Eribol  we  ferried,  and  Lord  Reay's  horses  met  me,  and  I 
rid  three  miles  to  Durness,  Lord  Reay's  house,  which  is  situated 
at  the  south-east  end  of  Durness  Bay,  where  there  is  a  fine 
strand  bounded  to  the  north  by  Farout  Head,  the  end  of  which 
is  in  the  degree  of  58.45.  To  the  west  of  this  head  are  two 
little  points  which  appear  to  have  been  fortified. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXV. 

TONGUE,  IN  SUTHERLAND, 
July  \st  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  crossed  the  bay  from  Durness  to  a  strand 
to  the  west,  in  order  to  go  to  Cape  Wrath.  Above  this  strand, 
to  the  south,  is  the  Kyle  of  Durness,  into  which  the  river1 
Durness  falls,  having  formed  near  its  rise  the  Lake  of  Dinart 2 
on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  out  of  which  Strathmore 
rises.  On  the  north  side  of  this  strand  are  fine  cliffs  and  a 
beautifull  head  of  marble  with  white  streaks  in  it,  and  red 
spots,  it  seems  to  be  black.  Here  the  herd's  boys  were  fishing 
for  Cudines  of  a  beautiful  mixed  brown  colour,  about  eight 
inches  long,  and  eat  like  trouts. 

We  went  on  to  the  west,  and  soon  came  to  hills  of  bright 
red  granite  in  large  spots,  we  passed  by  a  little  stream  where 
we  found  a  fawn  of  the  red  deer  about  a  week  old,  that  had 

1  River  Dionard.  -  Lake  Dionard. 


SUTHERLAND.  125 

been  killed  by  an  eagle ;  probably  two  of  them  shared  in  the 
prey,  for  there  were  two  great  holes  on  one  side  of  it.  The 
herd  moved  it  from  the  place,  and  covered  it  with  heath,  in 
order  to  come  and  take  it  for  the  use  of  his  house,  and  they 
say  it  is  excellent  food  ;  it  was  as  big  as  a  calf,  and  the  skin 
streaked  with  yellow.  The  hinde  on  this  occasion  runs  about 
and  stamps  with  her  foot  and  cries  terribly.  But  the  eagles 
will,  they  say,  kill  a  hart l  by  seizing  them  about  the  neck  and 
fluttering  their  wings  in  their  eyes.  There  are  two  kinds  of 
eagles,  the  large  which  keep  in  the  cliffs  and  feed  mostly  on 
fish,  and  the  small  black  eagle  which  live  in  the  rocks  of 
mountains,  and  prey  on  fawns,  lambs,  hares,  &c.  We  passed 
by  some  lakes,  and  saw  stags  feeding  at  a  distance. 

After  travelling  three  computed  miles,  we  came  to  Kerwich 
Bay,  a  small  strand  with  rocks  to  the  east,  which  are  a  sort  of 
composition  of  very  small  pebbles,  and  some  of  it  looks  like 
the  granite  of  the  Statues  of  Memnon.2  On  the  other  side  the 
rocks  are  of  a  bright  red  granite,  and  so  all  the  way  to  Cape 
Wrath,  to  which  we  went,  passing  by  two  lakes  in  which  there 
is  no  kind  of  fish  visible,  no  stream  running  into  them ;  we 
ascended  two  or  three  heights  before  we  came  to  Cape  Wrath, 
which  consists  of  two  points,  that  to  the  north-west  is  the 
lower ;  before  the  other  are  two  high  rocks  of  red  granite, 
encompassed  with  water,  where  there  is  an  aery  of  eagles,  and 
we  saw  the  two  eagles  which  belong  to  it  flying  over  the  point 
and  very  near  the  ground ;  they  sometimes  fight  for  fish  on  the 
strands  and  kill  one  another. 

I  saw  from  this  head  a  great  part  of  the  Isle  of  Lewis,  and 
the  Isle  of  Ronon,3  which  is  about  three  leagues  off,  I  was  told 
that  there  are  about  seven  families  on  it,  and  that  a  minister 
from  the  Isle  of  Lewis  visits  them  sometimes  once  a  year.  Six 

1  An  account  of  a  desperate  struggle  between  an  eagle  and  a  stag  was  graphi- 
cally described  in  the  Scotsman  of  nth  Dec.  1884.     See  Sport  in  the  Highlands 
and  Lowlands,  by  T.  Speedy,  and  '  The  Eagles  of  Loch  Treig, '  in  Scot.  Church 
Mag.,  Jan.  1886,  by  '  Nether  Lochaber,'  the  Rev.  Dr.  Alex.  Stewart. 

2  A  Description  of  the  East  and  some  other  Countries,  by  Richard  Pococke, 
D.D.,  LL.D.,  1743,  vol.  i.  p.  102. 

3  Islands  Rona  or  Roney  and  Soulisgeir  or  Sula  Sgeir.      See  Articles  by 
Mr.   Swinburne  in  vol.  viii.  pp.  51-67,  and  Mr.  Harvie-Brown  in  vol.  ix.  pp. 
284-299,  Proc.  Royal  Physical  Soc.,  1883-86. 


126          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

leagues  to  the  north  of  White  Head,  which  is  the  head  of  the 
Moan,1  is  a  very  small  rocky  island  called  Sealisker,  which 
island  is  in  no  other  map  but  Buchanan's ;  to  it  the  people  of 
Orkney  go  once  a  year  to  catch  seals,  of  which  they  make  oyl, 
and  they  come  all  along  the  coast.  In  this  island  the  solan 
geese  breed,  which  is  the  same  as  the  gannet  I  saw  in  Kerry. 
A  herd 2  lives  at  Kerwich  Bay  to  take  care  of  the  sheep  and 
horses,  and  another  near  the  bay  where  we  landed.  To  this 
head  and  peninsula  of  Cape  Wrath  they  have  sometimes  drove 
the  red  deer  in  order  to  shoot.  They  have  a  great  number  of 
the  adder  kind  here ;  and  I  was  told  in  the  middle  parts  of 
Scotland  that  goats  do  actually  kill  and  eat  them,  which  I 
could  not  believe  untill  it  was  confirmed  to  me  here  in  such  a 
manner  that  I  could  not  withold  my  belief  of  it,  and,  "'tis 
added,  that  they  make  a  great  noise  when  they  kill  them.3  It 
is  mentioned  in  some  books  that  the  red  deer  do  kill  them,  but 
of  the  truth  of  this  I  could  not  be  informed,  but  they  say 
swine  certainly  do  kill  and  eat  them. 

Another  day  we  went  eastward  to  the  Cave  of  Smoo.4     It  is 

1  The  Moine  (or  Moss). 

2  The  herd  at  that  time  may  have  been  Rob  Donn,   the  Sutherland  bard. 
He  was  at  one  period  Lord  Reay's  herd  at  Kearvaig  or  Kerwich. 

3  This  was  well  known  in  the  Highlands.     Hence  the  saying,  '  Itheadh  na 
gabhair  air  an  nathair, — ga  h-ith'  's  ga  caineadh.'     See  also  Sheriff  Nicolson's 
Collection  of  Gaelic  Proverbs  and  Familiar  Phrases,  1881,  pp.  294,  295 — 

'  Itheadh  na  goibhre  air  an  nathair. 

The  goats'  eating  of  the  serpent. 

'  It  is  believed,  in  some  parts  of  the  Highlands,  that  goats  eat  serpents,  and 
that  they  eat  them  tail  foremost,  first  stamping  on  the  head.  It  is  said  that 
while  the  goat  is  thus  engaged  it  utters  a  querulous  noise,  not  liking  the  wrig- 
gling of  the  adder.  A  verse  in  reference  to  this  is  : — 

'  Cleas  na  goibhre  'g  ith'  na  nathrach, 
'G  a  sior-itheadh,  's  a'  slor-thalach. 
The  goats'  trick  with  the  serpent, 
Eating  away,  and  still  corn-plaining. 

'  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  positively  affirmed  by  persons  of  experience  that  serpents 
disappear  where  goats  pasture.' 

4  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  his  Diary  of  a  Cruise  in  the  Pharos,  in  1814,  describes 
most  graphically,  but  perhaps  too  imaginatively,  his  visit  to  the  eerie  caves  of 
Smoo.     See  Lockhart's  Life  of  Scott,  ed.    1837 ;    Uamh  Stnowe,  vol.   iii.  pp. 
209-216;   Two  Months  in  the  Highlands,   Orcadia,  and  Skye,  by  C.  R.  Weld, 
1860,  p.  225  ;  Guide  to  Sutherland  and  Caithness,  by  Hew  Morrison,   1883, 
PP-  107-9. 


SUTHERLAND.  127 

very  beautiful,  with  high  rocks  on  each  side.  Into  this  cave  a 
stream  falls,  and  runs  through  it.  The  cave  is  forty  yards 
broad  and  fifty  long,  and  it  may  be  forty  feet  high.  From  one 
side  of  it  a  water  comes  from  under  the  rock,  which  is  open  for 
some  way  above.  A  boat  was  sometime  agoe  put  in,  and  a 
small  lake  was  found  underground,  formed  by  a  cascade  of 
water  a  few  yards  to  the  south,  which  falls  down  in  a  sheet 
from  a  rivulet,  it  may  be  thirty  feet,  and  runs  along  the  rock 
into  this  lough ;  and  the  light  from  that  part  at  noon,  when 
the  sun  shines  on  it,  has  a  very  extraordinary  effect.  There  is 
a  long  opening  over  the  cave,  as  for  an  oval  cupola,  and 
altogether  it  is  a  most  singular  curiosity.  I  went  another 
time  to  the  west,  where  there  is  a  deep  hole,  into  which  the 
sea  comes  underground  for  about  a  hundred  yards,  like  those 
to  the  south  of  Waterford  in  Ireland,  and  it  must  be  sixty  feet 
deep. 

The  sand  here  has  covered  a  great  quantity  of  good  ground, 
and  is  gaining  on  a  lake  near  adjoining ;  for  there  are  many 
lakes  in  this  tract  which  have  communication  one  with  another, 
and  that  partly  underground ;  and  in  a  valley  near  one  of 
them  I  observed  rocks  on  each  side,  with  a  harder  kind  of 
marble  between  the  strata,  which  remained  proof  against  the 
weather,  for  about  two  inches  in  thickness,  and  is  of  a  black 
colour,  whilst  the  stone  above  and  below  was  worn  by  the 
weather.  I  rid  up  by  the  Kyle  of  Durness,  which  in  one  part 
appears  like  a  large  triangular  lake. 

The  people  here  live  very  hardy,  principally  on  milk,  curds, 
whey,  and  a  little  oatmeal,  especially  when  they  are  at  the 
sheales  in  the  mountain,  y*  is,  the  cabins  or  hutts  in  which  they 
live  when  they  go  to  the  mountains  with  their  cattle  during  ye 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August.  There  best  food  is  oat  or 
barley  cakes.  A  porridge  made  of  oatmeal,  cale,  and  some- 
times a  piece  of  salt  meat  in  it,  is  the  top  fare.  Except  that 
by  the  sea,  they  have  plenty  of  fish  in  summer,  and  yet  they 
will  hardly  be  at  the  pains  of  catching  it  but  in  very  fine 
weather.  They  are  mostly  well-bodied  men,  of  great  activity, 
and  go  the  Highland  trot  with  wonderfull  expedition.  The 
post  travels  on  foot  in  four  days  and  back  again  to  Dornock, 
sixty  computed  miles,  which  cannot  be  less  than  a  hundred 


128  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

English,  that  is  fifty  miles  a  day,  and  seem  to  make  nothing  of 
it.  A  boy  ten  years  old  goes  post  from  Ratter  to  Thyrso, 
eight  computed  miles,  and  back  again  by  eleven  in  the  morning. 
When  they  were  in  vassalage  they  paid  their  rent  in  cattle  to 
the  landlord  for  the  land  they  held,  and  for  the  cattle^s 
sustenance  he  gave  them  what  corn  they  wanted,  and  they 
were  oblidged  to  work  whenever  he  required  them.  Of  grain 
they  have  only  barley  and  oats,  with  both  of  which  they  make 
cakes.  They  are  not  yet  come  into  the  use  of  potatoes,  but 
are  making  a  very  small  beginning ;  in  the  middle  and  south 
parts  of  Scotland  they  are  in  plenty. 

The  people  are  in  general  extremely  hospitable,  charitable, 
civil,  polite,  and  sensible.  In  the  north-west  part  I  met  with 
the  greatest  hospitality  and  politeness  in  Lord  Reay's  family.1 
The  ancestor  of  this  house  in  the  time  of  Charles  the  First  was 
going  to  Gustavus  Adolphus  with  a  regiment  of  Scotch.  Just 
as  he  was  embarking  with  a  recruit  of  a  thousand  men  he 
received  an  account  of  the  death  of  that  monarch,  with  whom 
he  had  been  for  some  time.  He  had  spent  and  mortgaged 
great  part  of  his  estate  (to  Lord  Sutherland's  family)  in 
military  expeditions,  having  a  strong  passion  for  military 
glory.  On  his  return  home  he  offered  himself  to  the  Swedes, 
and  not  being  accepted  he  went  into  the  service  of  Denmark, 
where  he  soon  died.  This  is  one  of  the  loyal  clans,  the  head 
of  which  has  a  pension  2  from  the  Crown  of  £300  a  year. — I 
am,  &c. 

1  '  HOUP  [HOPE],   Saturday,  $ih  July  1760. — Most  of  last  week  taken  up 
with  a  conspicuous  stranger,  Dr.  Pocock,  Lord  Bishop  of  Ossory  in  Ireland,  who 
after  a  course  of  travels  through  Europe  and  Asia  came  at  length  to  Scotland, 
which  he  means  to  pervade  thoroughly,  and  accordingly  came  to  this  north-west 
point  of  it,  and  stayed  with  Lord  Reay  from  Wednesday  till  Monday.     He  seems 
to  be  curious,  ingenious,  and  judicious,  and  .1  hope  our  country  may  not  be  the 
worse  of  his  visit,  which  has  probably  nibbed  off  prejudices  hinc  hide.     It  was 
on  Monday  he  came  over  the  water  [Loch  Erriboll]  in  his  way  to  the  eastward, 
when  I  also  came  from  home. ' — From  the  unpublished  MS.  Diary  by  the  late 
Rev.  Murdo  Macdonald,  Minister  of  Durness,  Sutherland,  7  vols.,  in  the  private 
Library  of  Mr.  Hew  Morrison,  F.S.A.,  Scot.,  Edinburgh. 

2  This   pension   appears  to  have  been  paid  in  varying  amounts  to  various 
branches  of  the  Reay  family  from  1707  to  1831.     The  last  Lord  Reay  in  receipt 
of  it  was  Lord  Erick. 


SUTHERLAND.  129 


LETTER  XXVI. 

TONGUE,  IN  SUTHERLAND, 
July  ist,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTEU, — On  the  30th  we  set  out  by  the  way  we 
came,  and  crossed  the  bay  of  Eribol  to  a  place  about  a  mile 
lower,  where  Mr.  Mackay  had  sent  horses  for  me,  to  whose 
house  we  went,  two  miles,  crossing  over  Inverhope,  where  there 
is  a  large  salmon  wear  of  Lord  Reay's ;  and  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  Lough  Hope.  But  ye  mountain  Benhope  did  not  appear  so 
beautifull  with  its  pointed  top  as  when  it  was  covered  with  a 
cloud.  We  took  some  refreshments  at  this  gentleman's  house, 
and  were  met  by  Mr.  Forbes,  who  conducted  me  six  miles  to 
his  house  over  the  Moan,  a  morassy  country,  impassible  except 
to  their  little  bog  horses.  Coming  to  the  bay  of  Tongue,  we 
had  a  more  pleasant  country  in  view,  in  which  there  are  many 
fine  spots  of  ground,  and  especially  Lord  Reay's  estate  of 
Tongue.  Here  I  was  shown  the  place  where  a  Frenchman  had 
been  buried  who  fell  in  an  engagement  in  1746,  when  the 
Sheerness  man-of-war  "Captain  Obrian"  had  chased  the 
"•Hazard"  sloop,1  which  had  on  board  150  men  and  .£13,000 
for  the  Pretender  about  three  weeks  before  the  battle  of 
Culloden,  the  want  of  which  lessened  their  army,  as  it 
deprived  them  of  purchasing  provisions.  After  they  had  run 
ashore  accidentally  on  the  point,  they  fought  for  a  short  time. 
Mr.  Forbes  attacked  them  with  about  eight  men,  and  led  them 
up  the  mountain,  now  and  then  giving  them  a  volley,  till  the 
country  and  part  of  a  regiment  of  regular  troops  cantooned  at 
no  great  distance  came  in,  to  whom  he  had  sent  for  aid ;  and 
then  they  immediately  laid  down  their  arms,  and  were  carried 
off  on  board  the  man-of-war.2 

1  The  French  appear  to  have  immediately  replaced  this  sloop  by  another 
bearing  the  same  name,  and  which  was  equally  unlucky: — ' Le  Hazard,  a  French 
privateer,  of  6  carriage-guns,  8  swivels,  and  48  men,  taken  betwixt  Tain  and 
Dornoch,  by  the  Experiment,  Captain   Farmer,   in   company  with  the  John 
and  Margaret  of  Leith,  George  Stiel.     The  Privateer  is  brought  to  Leith.' — 
Scots  Mag.,  1747,  p.  453. 

2  This  narrative  was  doubtless  communicated  by  the  Rev.  Murdo  Macdonald, 
the  minister  of  Durness,  and  corresponds  very  closely  to  the  notes  in  his  MS. 
Diary.     See  Note  I,  p.  128. 

I 


130          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

The  ground  we  had  passed  was  the  foot  of  Benhope,  at  the 
several  heads  between  the  rivers  stretched  out  from  the 
mountains  which  lye  to  the  south. 

On  the  1st  of  July,  Mr.  Forbes  and  Mr.  Gordon,  a  student 
of  Aberdeen,  set  out  with  me,  and  we  passed  by  a  kern  of 
circular  stones,  and  in  a  mile  and  a  half  came  to  Tongue,  a 
seat  of  Lord  ReayX  calling  by  y6  way  on  Mr.  Ross  the  minister, 
who  came  with  us  to  that  place,  where  the  late  lord  had  made 
a  handsome  terrace  and  bowling  green  between  the  house  and 
the  bay,  and  a  kitchen  garden  behind  the  house  planted  with 
all  kinds  of  fruit  except  peaches,  apricocks,  and  plumbs. 
Cherries  and  apples  are  planted  against  the  walls ;  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  kitchen  garden  is  a  pillar  entirely  covered  with 
dials.  The  Master  of  Reay,  the  lord^s  eldest  son,  usually  lives 
here.  There  are  large  plantations  of  wichelm,  ash,  sycamore,, 
and  some  quicken  or  mountain  ash.  On  the  opposite  side  on 
a  height  saw  Dunbar1  Castle,  where  the  Mackay  family  did 
formerly  sometimes  reside.  We  went  on  and  soon  came  to  the 
foundation  of  a  round  castle  on  an  eminence  now  entirely 
destroyed.  To  the  south  is  a  fine  craggy  long  mountain  called 
Ben  Loyal,  on  the  other  side  of  which  is  Lough  Loyal,  near 
which  we  had  passed  in  the  way  to  Strathmore  from  Moudale. 
So  we  were  here  on  the  foot  of  Mount  Loyal  which  makes 
Torrisdale  Head. 

A  little  before  we  came  to  the  Bay  of  Farr  we  stopped  at 
the  house  of  Captain  Mackay  a  half-pay  officer  of  Holland, 
and  met  with  his  brother  there,  who  was  actually  in  that 
service.  We  were  entertained  with  cake  and  a  glass  of  Malaga, 
and  came  on  to  Farr  Bay,  to  which  some  fine  rocks  extend  in 
perpendicular  veins  of  a  black  slaty  stone,  and  whitish  granite 
with  some  mixture  of  very  pale  red.  This  bay  near  a  mile 
over  consists  of  soft  sand  on  which  we  rid,  not  without  some 
apprehensions  to  a  stranger,  tho1  all  was  safe.  Here  we  crossed 
the  water  which  comes  from  Loch  Nevern,2  near  which  we 
travelled  about  Moudale,  and  from  this  lake  and  river  the 
whole  country  to  Caithness  is  called  Stranevern.3 

1  Dun  Bar  or  Dun  Varrich  or  Berovik.  2  Loch  Naver  or  Navern. 

3  Strathnaver. 


SUTHERLAND.  131 

We  came  round  the  hill  to  Farr  Church,1  where  on  a  stone  2 
about  three  feet  wide  and  six  high,  a  short  cross  is  cut  in  a 
circle  in  has  relief,  and  many  ornaments  of  lines  round  about 
it  so  as  to  cover  that  side,  which  the  common  people  imagine 
to  be  inscriptions.  Hear  the  sea  at  some  distance.  In  a 
strong  situation  is  the  ruined  castle  of  Farr,3  the  ancient 
residence  of  Lord  Reay^s  family,  who  were  called  lairds  of  Farr, 
being  made  peers  in  the  time  of  Charles  the  First,  when  the 
lord  I  have  mentioned  mortgaged  all  this  eastern  part  of  the 
estate,  which  was  afterwards  sold  to  the  Earl  of  Sutherland. 

At  Tongue  near  the  house  is  a  vein  of  sparr,  which  being 
examined  by  a  miner  he  said  it  was  tin  ore,  but  so  small  a  vein 
that  it  is  not  worth  the  working. 

We  here  dined  with  Mr.  Monroe  4  the  minister,  who  heard 
of  our  coming.  We  proceeded  in  bad  stony  roads,  and  passed 
by  several  little  loughs,  in  which  there  are  trouts  and  eels. 
The  last  are  eaten  here  only  by  the  common  people.  We  saw 
two  kerns  near  Farr,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  a  boggy 
country,  and  crossed  the  river  Armisdale.6 

We  then  came  on  the  land  which  makes  Strathy  Head, 
supposed  to  be  Virvebrum  Promontoricum,  which  seems  to 
extend  from  Ben  Maddy,  that  is  near  the  Loughs  Strathy  and 
Buy  which  are  to  the  east  of  Lough  Nevern.  The  new  map 
makes  this  point  as  stretching  out  to  due  north,  so  as  at  first 
view  to  appear  like  the  north-east  point,  but  then  was  call'd 
Dumna,  and  the  Mainland  of  the  Orkneys,  calPd  Thule  Ult. 
Ins.,  lye  pretty  well  to  it,  whereas  the  Orcades  stretch  out 
towards  Epidium  Promontorium,  now  Cape  Wrath.  Torridale  6 
Head  seems  to  be  Orcas  Promontorium  of  that  map,  unless 
Strathy  Head  should  rather  be  Orcas  and  Vervedrum  the  head, 

1  The  present  church  dates  from  1774 ;  the  former  one  was  a  small  thatched 
building. 

2  This  cross  is  described  and  figured  in  Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones  of  Scot.   PI. 
xxxv.  p.  12.     The  stone  is  very  hard,  and  differs  entirely  from  any  of  the  rocks 
in  the  district. 

8  Farr  or  Borve  Castle,  near  Swordly.  See  Guide  to  Sutherland  and  Caith- 
ness, by  Hew  Morrison,  F.S.A.  Scot. 

4  Rev.  George  Munro,  minister  from  1754  to   1779.     He  was  the  paternal 
grand-uncle  of  the  Rev.  Gustavus  Aird,  D.D.,  Free  Church,  Creich. 

5  Armadale.  6  Torrisdale. 


132          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

to  the  east  of  Thurso.  But  in  this  case  Virubrium,  the  north- 
east point,  is  too  far  from  it  in  that  map.  This  part  we  went 
over  is  the  worst  of  all,  consisting  of  many  guts,  over  which 
the  horses  must  leap,  and  sometimes  so  near  one  another  that 
we  continued  in  a  gallop  over  them ;  whereas  Moan  is  soft  and 
shaking,  tho1  dangerous  only  to  very  heavy  horses,  but  my 
horses,  I  was  told,  leaped  over  this  part  very  well. 

We  came  to  a  most  charming  vale  between  the  bogs  called 
Strathy  Bay  on  Avon  Strathy.  It  belongs  to  Captain  Mackay, 
now  in  the  Sutherland  regiment l  and  laird  of  Strathy,  being  an 
apenage  from  the  lairds  of  Farr  before  they  were  enobled. 
Here  is  a  good  house  and  offices,  and  I  was  received  with  great 
politeness  by  Lady  Strathy.  This  is  a  fine  country  situated 
between  a  foil  of  black  bogs  that  hang  over  it,  but  between 
the  house  and  the  sea  there  are  beautifull  hills  which  have  fine 
downs  on  their  summitts. 

We  set  out  on  the  2d,  and  came  about  four  miles  over 
another  course  of  bogs,  under  which  is  a  yellow  freestone,  and 
crossed  the  Avon  Hollowdale,  which  rises  to  the  south  out  of 
the  Paps  and  Ben  Grim,  and  passed  by  Bighouse,  another 
apenage  of  the  house  of  Reay  that  descended  to  the  present 
lord's  half-brother  by  his  marriage  of  the  sole  heiress.2  This 
is  a  beautifull  vale  of  considerable  extent.  Ascending  such 
another  tract,  we  came  to  a  flaggstone  set  up  on  end,  some  say, 
in  memory  of  a  victory  obtained  here,  tho1  probably  it  is  an 
ancient  sepulchre. 

We  crossed  a  stream  on  the  top  of  this  hill  into  Caithness. 
Sutherland  seems  to  have  been  inhabited  by  the  Caroni  to  the 
west,  by  the  Mortie  to  the  east,  by  part  of  the  Conavii  to  the 
north,  and  part  of  the  Cantie  to  the  south.  Caithness  was 
inhabited  to  the  east  by  these  two  people,  and  by  the  Logi 

1  A  letter  from  a  gentleman  in  Inveraray  to  a  gentleman  in  Edinburgh  dated 
Aug.  4th  1760  has  the  following  paragraph : — 'On  Friday  last  arrived  here  in 
their  way  to  the  Roads,  eight  miles  from  this  place  [Inveraray],  IOO  sturdy  fellows 
of  Lord  Sutherland's  highlanders,  commanded  by  Lieutenant  James  Mackay  of 
Skerray ;  though  after  a  fatiguing  march,  they  made  as  fine  an  appearance  as 
any  troops  I  ever  beheld,  and  though  they  are  but  a  young  corps,  there  is  scarce 
a  regiment  in  his  Majesty's  service  better  disciplined.' — Caledonian  Mercury, 
Aug.  13,  1760. 

2  See  note  5,  p.  113. 


CAITHNESS.  133 

between  them.  We  soon  came  down  near  to  a  large  bay,  and  to 
Sandside,  Mr.  Innys,1  near  the  west  hill  of  it,  and  a  little  to  the 
west  of  Reay,  from  which  the  family  take  their  title,  and  where 
the  first  lord  built  a  small  house.  Here  we  saw  a  fine  country, 
a  good  house,  and  everything  in  great  order  and  elegance. 
Here  I  also  viewed  the  remains  of  a  Picts1  house  and  part  of 
the  outer  wall  of  the  gallery  round  the  cells,  which  seemed  to 
have  been  supported  on  the  outside  by  earth.  They  have  here 
freestone,  limestone,  and  thin  flags,  used  as  slating  for  their 
buildings,  and  there  are  rocks  of  grey  granite.  Over  the  bay 
in  the  middle  of  the  sands  are  two  kerns,  in  which  they  have 
found  bones. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXVII. 

July  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  3d  I  set  out ;  the  Laird  of  Sanside 
Mr.  Innys,  sending  a  Gentleman  with  me.  We  went  a  mile  to 
the  south  of  Thyrso  to  see  a  Picts  house  at  Giese,  in  which  I 
discovered  only  an  entrance  about  four  feet  wide,  and  a  seg- 
ment of  a  circle  that  might  be  about  25  feet  in  diameter,  and 
probably  a  wall  was  built  within  this  to  make  a  circular  pas- 
sage which  led  to  the  small  appartments  in  the  middle,  about 
8  feet  long  and  4  feet  wide,  which  answers  to  the  description  of 
them.  From  this  I  came  to  Mr.  Murray's,2  near  Thyrso,  and 

1  Mr.  Innes  of  Sandside. 

2  '  Mr.  James  Murray  of  Pennyland,    Surveyor   of  the   Customs,    told   me 
[Bishop  Forbes]  he  desired  the  Bishop  of  Ossory  to  visit  the  Clet,  but  he  was 
in  haste,  and  could  not  think  of  walking  so  far,  as  it  is  two  long  miles  from 
Pennyland,  where  his   Lordship   had  dined  and  ate  heartily  of  fried  chicken, 
and  liked  it  so  well  that  he  desired  to  have  a  receipt  for  dressing  of  it,  as  there 
is  no  such  dish  in  England  or  Ireland.     There  was  another  Dish,  which  he  took  to 
be  Enammelet,  but  it  happened  to  be  toasted  Ears.     "Toasted  ears  !"  said  he  ; 
"  what  is  that?"     "Why,"  said  Mr.  Murray,  "the  Ears  of  a  Calf  toasted  on 
Bread."     He  liked  it  much.     But  what  surprized  him  most  of  all  was  the  fine 
Wheat-Bread  he  ate  here,  of  which  he  said  he  had  not  got  any  since  he  came  into 
Strathnaver,  through  which  he  travelled  in  his  way  to  Caithness ;  and  he  begged 
to  know  how  they  came  by  it.     When  they  told  him  it  was  baked  in  a  Pot,  he 
was  amazed,  insomuch  that  it  behoved  them  to  assure  him  it  was  so  before  he 
could  believe  it ;  and  he  declared  he  had  never  ate  better  all  his  Life  ;  and  so 


134  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

embarked  at  that  town  for  the  Orkneys.  Thyrso  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  bay  and  a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  rises  out 
of  several  loughs  to  the  south-east  towards  Dunbeath  ;  It  is  but 
indifferently  built ;  and  is  chiefly  supported  by  the  salmon 
fishery.  They  also  export  some  corn,  and  have  an  import  for 
the  use  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  country.  About  half  a  mile  to 
the  west  are  ruins  of  a  castle  which  belonged  to  the  bishops  of 
Cathness,  whose  See  was  at  Dornock,  and  it  contained  this 
county  and  Sutherland.  Helburn  Head  to  the  west  of  this,  is 
esteemed  a  very  fine  head  of  land.  On  the  3d,  about  seven  in 
the  evening,  we  took  boat  for  the  isle  of  Walls,  pronounced 
Waies,  one  of  the  Orkneys. 

We  landed  about  11  in  a  rocky  Creek  that  had  a  very 
frightfull  appearance,  and  would  have  been  dangerous,  if  it  had 
not  been  perfectly  calm.  We  walked  a  mile  to  Captain 
Moody^s  house ;  this  is  a  most  charming  situation  on  an  emin- 
ence which  commands  a  view  of  the  sea  to  the  East,  and  of  a 
most  beautifull  bay  to  the  North  that  locks  m  and  appears  like 
a  lake  ;  the  land  between  it  is  cultivated,  and  if  the  hills  were 
planted  it  would  be  a  perfect  terrestrial  paradise. 

On  the  5th  we  took  boat  on  this  bay,  which  to  the  West  for 
about  half  a  mile  is  divided  from  the  North  Sea  by  a  narrow 
beach.  We  rowed  on  for  about  four  miles  to  the  North  West l 
and  by  West,  having  Waies  on  both  sides,  but  afterwards  we 
turned  to  the  North  West,  having  Hoy  Waies  to  the  west, 
which  is  the  name  of  that  part  of  the  island,  as  that  to  the 
South  of  the  bay  we  came  in,  is  called  South  Waies.  We  saw 
to  the  East  the  small  isle  of  Switha,  and  rowing  on  had  Flota 
to  the  East,  and  saw  beyond  it  the  isle  of  South  Ronaldshaw  : 
we  had  a  view  of  Kirkwall  Church  across  the  neck  of  Land  of 
the  isle  of  Pomona  commonly  called  the  Mainland :  We  went 
on  and  had  Fara  isle  to  the  East,  and  then  the  isle  of  Risa, 
and  beyond  that  Cava. 

plentifully  did  he  take  of  it,  that  Mr.  Murray  jokingly  said,  "  Stop,  my  Lord, 
else  your  Lordship  will  raise  a  Famine  in  ye  Country ;"  which  pleased  him  so  well, 
that  he  called  to  his  own  Servant,  "John,  pray,  give  me  t'other  cut  of  that  fine 
Loaf."  And,  when  he  came  to  Wick,  he  desired  his  Servant  to  see  if  he  could 
have  a  Loaf  baked  in  a  Pot  to  take  along  with  them.  He  had  two  Servants,  viz., 
a  Valet  and  a  Groom.' — Bp.  Forbes'sfouma/s,  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  200. 
1  Should  be  north-east  by  east. 


ORKNEY.  135 

We  saw  two  or  three  of  the  golden  Eagles  flying  to  the 
Cliffs :  they  are  the  large  kind,  and  lighter  than  any  I  have 
seen  in  Ireland  ;  tho1  I  saw  of  the  largest  kinds,  which  I  believe 
are  all  black  in  Ireland.  And  I  have  some  doubt  whether  these 
are  not  of  the  Vulture  kind :  I  was  told  they  measure  from  the 
end  of  one  wing  to  the  end  of  the  other  six  feet ;  It  was  to 
these  Cliffs  that  an  Eagle  brought  a  Child  four  miles,  from 
Houton  Head  on  the  Mainland,  as  mentioned  by  Sr  Robert 
Sibbald  in  his  Natural  History  of  Scotland  which  is  so  remark- 
able (ihd1  almost  incredible)  that  I  insert  it  in  his  own  words. 
.  .  .  Infantulum  unius  anni  Pannis  involutum  arripuisse,  quern 
Mater  tesselas  ustibiles  pro  igne  allatura  momento  temporis 
deposuerat  in  loco  Houton-head  dicto  eumque  deportasse  per 
quatuor  milliaria  passam  ad  Hoiam;  qua  re  ex  Matris  ejula- 
tibus  cognita,  quatuor  viri  illuc  in  Navicula  profecti  sunt, 
&  scientes  ubi  Nidus  esset,  Infantulum  illaesum  &  intactum 
deprehenderunt. — L.  3.  c.  ii.  p.  14.1 

We  came  to  the  vale  which  is  to  the  South  of  Hoy  Hill, 
where  over  the  Sea  cliff"  is  a  Picts  house,  &  we  walked  a  mile 
and  a  half  by  the  vale  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  South  Side 
of  the  Vale,  where  we  saw  that  famous  stone  commonly  called 
the  Dwarfe  Stone,2  it  is  28  feet  long,  14  feet  7  in.  broad,  6  ft. 
3  in.  deep :  into  which  a  room  is  cut,  the  middle  is  a  sort  of 
passage  3  feet  broad  about  seven  feet  long  and  two  feet  six 
inches  high,  to  the  right  is  a  place  as  for  a  bed  4  feet  11 1 
inches  long  with  a  rising  three  inches  high  and  seven  inches 

1  '  An  eagle  carrying  away  to  his  nest  an  infant  in  its  swaddling-clothes.     Dr. 
Matthews  MacKail,  a  doctor  of  Aberdeen,  informed  me  that  there  are  many 
eagles  in  the  west  part  of  the  mainland  of  the  Orkneys,  called  Pomona,  as  well 
in  the  Island  of  Hoy,  and  he  said  that  one  of  these  had  seized  an  infant  of  one 
year  old,  wrapped  up  in  its  swaddling-clothes,  which  its  mother  had  laid  down 
for  a  moment  at  a  place  called  Houten-head,  while  she  went  to  gather  dry  fuel 
for  the  fire,  and  that  this  eagle  carried  the  infant  for  four  miles  to  Hoy.     When 
the  occurrence  became  known  from  the  cries  of  the  mother,  four  men  set  out  to 
the  island  in  a  little  boat,  and,  as  they  knew  where  the  nest  was,  they  rescued 
the  infant  safe  and  sound.'     Vide  Scotia   Illustrata  sive  frodromus  Historic 
Naturalis,  etc.,  by  Sir  Robert  Sibbald,   1684.     This  incident  is  referred  to  by 
Sir  Walter  Scott  in  his  notes  to  The  Pirate ;  but  it  must  have  occurred  at  an 
earlier  date  than  there  indicated. 

2  See  Note  P.  to  Sir  Walter  Scott's  novel  The  Pirate.    Dr.  Pococke's  measure- 
ments correspond  very  closely  with  those  given  by  Mr.  Tudor  in  his  large  work 
The  Past  and  Present  State  of  the  Orkneys  and  Shetland,  1883,  p.  323. 


136 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


broad  so  as  to  lay  the  head  on  it,  and  a  very  little  hollow  in 
the  middle,  as  if  designed  for  the  back  part  of  the  head ;  on 
the  other  side  is  a  Compartment  with  a  division  3  inches  broad 
and  about  the  same  height  from  the  passage,  the  Compartm*  is 
two  feet  wide,  and  three  feet  four  inches  long  with  a  round 
hole  over  it  which  comes  a  few  inches  over  the  passage.  This 
seems  to  have  been  the  hearth,  &  the  hole  to  be  made  to  carry 


A  Hermit's  Cell  in  the  Dwarfe  Stone. 

off  the  smoak ;  The  stone  at  top  of  this  hole  is  seven  inches 
thick.  Drawings  of  it  are  here  seen.  This  stone  must  have 
fallen  down  from  the  hill,  and  was  without  doubt  the  habita- 
tion of  a  Hermit.1 

There  is  great  plenty  of  Grouse  here,  and  they  have  the 
black  game,  but  neither  Deer,  hares,  foxes,  patriges,  Pheasants 
or  quailes. 

We  went  on  and  it  was  curious  to  see  the  birds  following 
the  Shoals  of  fish,  supposed  to  be  young  Herrings.  We  saw  on 
a  point  of  Hoy  a  pidgeon  house  formed  out  of  the  chamber  of 

1  '  The  common  tradition  among  the  people  is,  that  a  giant  with  his  wife  lived 
in  this  Isle  of  Hoy,  who  had  this  stone  for  their  Castle.  But  I  would  rather 
think  .  .  .  the  retired  Cell  of  some  melancholick  Hermite.' — Brand's  Descrip- 
tion of  Orkney,  1701,  edition  1883,  p.  63. 


ORKNEY.  137 

a  picts  house  with  some  additions  made  to  it ;  that  room  is 
eight  feet  long  and  4  feet  wide :  The  Hill  of  Hoy  is  a  fine  red 
hill  probably  abounding  in  Iron ;  and  Hoy  head  to  the  North 
of  it,  is  a  very  grand  and  beautifull  cliff.  We  rowed  along  to 
the  west  of  Gromsa,1  a  fine  isle  of  about  300  acres,  and  brings 
near  d£?100  rent,  it  belongs  to  Mr.  Honey  man  who  has  his  title 
of  Gromsa  from  this  island.  A  Bishop 2  of  Orkney  anno  1664 
was  of  this  family :  He  received  a  shot  in  his  Arm  by  a  poisoned 
ball  which  was  designed  for  A :  Bp  Sharp  as  he  was  getting 
into  the  Arch  Bpns  Coach  which  much  impaired  his  health. 

We  passed  in  sight  of  Orphir  called  Orpher  in  Dorrets 
Map  of  Scotland  ;  Here  is  a  Rotondo  Chapel 3  built  as  they  say 
long  before  the  Cathedral  of  Kirkwall,  and  was  entire  in  1757 
but  wanting  stone  for  the  Church  of  Orphir,  they  much  defaced 
it ;  however  as  it  was  of  freestone  &  the  mortar  proving  ex- 
cellent Cement  it  did  not  answer  to  separate  them,  and  soe  it 
was  not  entirely  destroyed ;  It  is  20  feet  in  Diameter  and  15 
feet  high,  is  vaulted,  with  a  hole  in  the  top  to  give  light,  and 
there  is  a  small  window  in  the  East  End :  Orphir  was  the  chief 
seat  of  the  Danish  governors  till  Romuald  4  Earl  of  Orkney  who 
succeeded  Paul,  built  the  Cathedral,  and  then  Kirkwall  became 
the  Seat  of  Government.  Torfaeus  p.  103  in  the  life  of  Earl 
Paul,  in  the  beginning  of  the  12th  Century  speaks  thus  of  this 
building.  In  lorfiara  magnificae  aedes  in  praecipite  colle 
stabant ;  .  .  .  Ingens  triclinium,  convivisqj;  excipiendis  [capacis- 
simum  Jorfiara  estabat,]  inpariete  australi  prope  angulum 
orientalem,  qvi  latera  committit,  fores  erant,  ante  qvas  tem- 

1  Grcemsay. 

2  Andrew  Honyman,  Archdeacon  of  St.    Andrews,  afterwards  translated  to 
the  Bishopric  of  Orkney. 

3  '  We  must  look  to  Orkney  for  the  only  specimen  in  Scotland  of  a  circular 
church — that  at  Orphir,  now  only  a  mere  fragment.     This  interesting  ruin  has 
been  adduced  as  an  example  of  the  development  of  a  church  from  the  early  dry- 
built  circular  or  beehive  dwellings  of  the  native  inhabitants ;  but  it  is  on  record 
that  the  Norwegian  Earl  Hakon,  who  had  his  residence  at  Orphir,  made  the 
pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem  in  expiation  of  the  murder  of  St.  Magnus,  and  as  the 
church  is  plainly  one  of  the  well-known  twelfth-century  imitations  of  the  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  it  was  more  likely  to  have  been  erected  by  him  than  by 
anyone  previous  to  his  time.' — Anderson's  Scotland  in  Early  Christian  Times, 
1881,  p.  29. 

4  Earl  Rognvald. 


138  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

plum  magnificum,  ad   qvod  ingressus  a  triclinio  per  devexa 
patebat.1 

We  came  to  Stromness  town,  situated  something  like  King- 
sale  in  Ireland,  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  on  the  side  and 
foot  of  the  hill  on  the  Sea,  but  very  irregularly  built.  They  are 
all  (except  one  Factor),  Publicans  and  shopkeepers ;  There  are 
above  200  families  in  the  town  ;  the  women  are  great  knitters : 
most  ships  going  Westward  or  Northwards  touch  here,  but  the 
chief  are  4  large  ships  which  goe  every  May  to  Hudson's  bay 
with  all  kinds  of  Sortments  of  goods,  and  bring  back  bever 
skins  for  hats,  &  Marten's  for  Muffs  and  Tippets,  which  last 
are  brought  only  by  the  Sailors  &  sell  here  for  about  five 
shillings  a  piece ;  the  bevers  for  .  .  .2  They  also  bring 
Sea  horses  teeth  which  are  about  18  inches  long,  and  are  very 
fine  Ivory — of  these,  among  other  uses,  they  make  artificial 
teeth — fish,  oyl,  the  Skins  of  the  Mouse,  and  of  Deer,  &  Elk. 
The  first  I  was  assured  answers  to  the  description  of  the  Urus  : 
They  are  five  weeks  in  their  voyage  to  the  Entrance  of  Hudson's 
bay  and  four  weeks  more  to  the  furthest  factory.  When  they 
arrive  they  fire  a  gun  which  is  a  notice  to  the  Natives  to  bring 
their  goods.  The  Askeomies  are  those  round  about  the  outer 
parts  of  the  Bay  :  The  Indians  are  in  the  inner  parts :  These 
are  always  at  war,  and  "'tis  said  the  former  eat  the  latter  when 
they  Kill  them  in  Battle,  as  no  Quarter  is  given  on  either  side, 
except  to  the  Children  which  they  breed  up  as  their  own.  The 
Askeomies  use  the  long  Canoe  covered  with  Seal  Skin,  and  a 
hole  in  it  large  enough  for  one  person,  about  which  they  lash 
their  garment,  so  as  that  water  cannot  come  in  ;  the  Indians  use 
a  Canoe  made  of  the  bark  of  a  tree  ;  and  both  manage  them  so 
well,  that  they  will  remain  near  a  ship  (till  their  turn  comes  to 
go  aboard)  for  a  considerable  time  in  very  bad  weather.  They 
admit  into  the  ship  about  a  dozen  at  a  time,  not  choosing  to 

1  From  Rerum  Orcadensium  Histories,  by  Thermodus  Torfseus,  1697,  lib.   I. 
cap.  xxiii.      '  In  lorfiara  a  great  castle  stood  on  a  steep  hill.    In  it  there  was  a 
large  banqueting  hall,  the  most  commodious  in  all  lorfiara  for  receiving  guests  ; 
and  in  the  south  wall,  near  where  the  east  corner  unites  the  sides,  there  was  a 
door,  and  in  front  of  this  a  great  temple,  to  which  entrance  opened  from  the 
banqueting  hall  by  means  of  a  flight  of  stairs.'     See  also  Popes'  translation  of 
Torfaeus,  and  notes,  pp.  107,  108. 

2  Blank  in  the  MS. 


ORKNEY.  139 

be  outnumbered  by  them.  The  teeth  and  oyl  they  bring  float- 
ing and  fixed  to  the  Canoe.  The  Sailors  give  them  beeds,  red 
coats  for  the  Chiefs,  adorned  with  tinsel  lace,  and  many  trinkets 
in  exchange.  The  Askeomies  prostrate  on  the  face  to  do 
obeisance,  and  are  afraid  of  Canon,  which  if  fired  they  fall  pros- 
trate ;  whereas  the  Indians  take  the  fire  of  Canon  as  a  Com- 
pliment :  They  wear  a  Jacket  and  Capuchin  over  their  heads 
of  woolfs  or  bearskins,  and  trousers,  which  cover  their  feet  and 
legs ;  of  the  same,  a  sort  of  broad  Sandal  of  Mouse  hide  with 
an  ornament  turning  up  before,  and  these  are  convenient  to 
walk  with  on  the  Snow.  The  Chiefs  wear,  as  before  mentioned, 
a  red  Jacket,  and  have  purses  of  Seal  Skins  adorned  with  glass 
beeds,  on  which  they  set  a  great  value. 

The  principal  trade  of  the  island  is  at  this  place,  which  con- 
sists in  an  export  of  Barley,  Kelp  Ashes,  Fish  oyl,  Salt  beef, 
and  butter.  They  also  send  out  Oatmeal,  Malt,  hams,  dryed 
geese,  tallow,  Cod,  Ling  and  the  Skins  of  Calves  rabbits  and 
foxes,  goose  feathers,  coarse  frizes,  fine  stockings,  knit  gloves, 
and  linnen  :  But  they  say  the  fishery  has  failed  of  late,  whethei 
for  want  of  fish  or  Industry  I  cannot  say.  They  have  apples 
and  pears  against  the  walls,  and  say  they  will  not  do  as  stand- 
ards, nor  grow  above  the  walls :  the  horses  are  like  those  of 
the  highlands  :  They  have  a  very  small  hog  with  long  Bristles 
which  lookes  like  a  Hedge  hog ;  it  seems  to  be  a  mixture  with 
the  wild  boar.  They  are  not  bigger  than  the  Chinese  hog  & 
the  bodies  not  so  large ;  they  have  little  huts  for  them  in  the 
Commons  to  keep  them  from  the  Corn.  The  Sheep  are  very 
small  and  in  this  island  they  pull  off  the  wool,1  which  bruises 
them  in  such  a  manner,  that  if  it  happens  to  be  wet  afterwards 
they  often  dye.  In  Waies  they  sometimes  sheer  them,  and 
oftener  cut  off  the  Wool  with  a  sharp  knife  in  a  very  dextrous 
manner ;  but  in  that  Island  the  sheep  are  mostly  wild  ;  they 
have  marks2  on  them,  and  an  officer  who  is  a  kind  of  Constable, 

1  '  The  process  of  rooing  (or  plucking)  is  said  not  to  be  so  cruel  as  it  would 
seem,  the  wool,  when  the  sheep  is  ripe  for  the  operation,  coming  away  very 
easily.' — Tudor's  The  Orkneys  and  Shetland,  p.  155. 

2  Sheep-marks  were  general  in  the  Orkneys  until  about  40  years  ago,  and 
when  registered  with  the  bailie  of  the  parish,  under  the  old  Country  Acts  gave 
hereditary  rights.     The  following  are  three  examples  :  (l)  A  hole  in  the  right 
lug,  a  lap  before  on  the  left  lug,  a  teen  in  the  left  nostril ;  (2)  A  shear  on  the 


140  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

when  they  want  to  catch  them,  points  to  them  and  the  dog 
brings  out  the  sheep  he  desires  :  But  as  they  eat  of  the  Sea 
weeds,  they  are  not  good  till  fed  for  a  few  days  on  grass,  having 
a  disagreeable  taste.  In  the  winter  the  Snow  bird  comes, 
which  is  about  as  big  as  a  bunting,  the  body  is  of  ash  colour 
with  white  wings,  it  eats  like  a  lark.  They  have  also  the  Chac 
which  is  of  an  ash  colour  with  black  wings  as  big  as  a  sky  lark. 
The  Lyar  seems  to  be  the  Puffin,  they  let  down  people  several 
fathoms  by  a  rope  to  take  them  on  the  ledges  in  the  rocks, 
where  they  have  their  young  in  holes.  The  herrings  come 
from  the  North  in  the  beginning  of  Summer  in  great  quantities, 
and  proceed  along  the  East  and  West  coast,  and  are  not  so 
good  as  those  caught  here.  The  whole  Bay  through  which  we 
sailed  is  a  very  fine  harbour,  but  especially  that  part  of  it  which 
is  between  Hoy  Waies  and  South  Waies  :  the  entrance  between 
Gromsa  and  Stromness  is  narrow.  The  largest  ships  anchor 
within  Gromsa  to  the  North  West ;  and  two  points  make  out, 
and  form  a  Beautifull  Bason  under  the  town,  where  the  small 
shipping  come  in  :  And  this  passage  is  much  frequented  in 
order  to  avoid  Pentland  Firth  where  the  tydes  and  currents 
are  very  difficult  for  strangers ;  and  so  they  sail  to  the 
East  of  Duncansby  head  the  North  East  point  of  Scotland. — 
I  am,  &c. 

LETTER  XXVIII. 

KIRKWALL  IN  ORKNEY,  July  4."',  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  6th  we  took  horses  at  Stromness  and 
travelled  to  the  North  West ;  we  had  in  sight  the  Lough  of 
Stenhouse  and  Circles  of  Stones,  and  came  in  about  4  miles  to 
the  Sea  Cliffs  which  are  very  fine  perpendicular  rocks,  with 

right  lug,  a  piece  behind  the  left  lug,  and  a  crook  before  burnt  on  the  face  ; 
(3)  A  shear  on  the  right  lug,  two  holes  on  the  left,  and  oowed  on  the  face. 
Explanation  of  terms  : — lap,  a  bit  taken  out  of  the  edge  of  the  lug  (ear) ;  teen,  a 
slit  made  in  the  nostril,  the  effect  of  which  was  that  it  became  larger  than  the 
other  ;  shear,  the  upper  part  of  the  lug  clipped  off  in  a  slanting  direction  ;  piece, 
a  small  bit  taken  out  of  the  edge  of  the  lug  at  the  root ;  crook,  a  larger  piece 
taken  out  of  the  middle  of  the  lug ;  oowed,  the  flesh  on  the  face  cut  to  the  bone, 
and  the  flesh  twisted  round  so  that  it  rose  like  a  wart  or  mole.  Ear-marks  are 
still  common,  and  recognised  by  large  sheep-farmers  throughout  Scotland.  See 
also  Tudor's  The  Orkneys  and  Shetland,  p.  1 54. 


ORKNEY. 


141 


142          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

several  coves  in  them,  these  rocks  consist  mostly  of  thin  strata 
of  stone  each  about  6  or  8  inches  thick  and  then  a  Ruble  stone 
for  about  ten  feet :  the  thin  strata  are  joyned  in  several  figures, 
and  these  joynts  commonly  continue  through  them.  They 
mostly  consist,  each  of  them,  of  three  kinds  of  Stone  of  Different 
Colours  and  sometimes  four,  which  are  different  as  to  their  hard- 
ness, the  middle  and  outside  yellow,  and  that  between  blewish. 
There  is  a  softer  stone  between  them,  which  wears  away,  and 
the  others  resisting  the  force  of  the  waters,  they  form  figures 
round  in  the  shape  of  the  stone,  and  in  some  there  are  three  of 
them,  besides  the  middle  stone.  Many  of  them  are  triangular, 
which  are  beautifull,  some  in  shape  of  a  Needle,  and  some  rise  in 
a  small  dye  of  a  Uniform  substance  ;  The  Cliff  extends  to  a  head 
near  which  there  is  a  small  lake.  To  the  North  of  this  about  5 
miles  in  Birsa,  is  the  old  Country  Seat  of  the  Earls  of  Orkney 
built  round  a  Court  in  a  Circular  form,  the  rooms  being  high  : 
Here  also  are  the  remains  of  Christs  Church  the  first  Christian 
place  of  Devotion  built  in  this  island.  We  came  Eastward  two 
miles  to  the  glebe  or  as  they  call  it  the  Manse  of  the  parish  of 
Sandwick,  where  we  dined  with  Mr.  Terre  : 1  we  passed  by  a  lake 
which  is  the  rise  of  a  river  that  runs  a  little  way  and  makes 
another  lake,  and  running  a  little  further  it  forms  the  great 
lake  of  Stenhouse,  which  extends  about  six  miles  to  the  South, 
and  is  near  a  mile  broad  ;  it  then  passes  between  two  heads  of 
Land,  extends  four  miles  to  the  North  West,  and  falls  by  a 
large  opening  to  the  South  into  the  Sea,  and  is  said  to  be  25 
miles  round,  of  which  I  have  no  doubt ;  to  the  North  is  a  ridge 
of  hills,  between  which  and  the  hills  to  the  South  is  a  fine  Vale, 
beyond  this  is  another  ridge  and  there  is  a  most  beautiful  vale 
between  them. 

The  parish  of  Birsa2  and  the  parish  of  Eva,3  to  the  north  of 
these  make  another  fine  spot  on  the  Sea :  we  had  a  most  plea- 
sant ride  between  the  two  parts  of  the  Lough,  tho'  the  Country 
is  mostly  heathy,  &  we  came  to  a  very  grand  druid  temple,4 

1  Rev.  James  Tyrie,  minister  from  1747  to  1778.  2  Birsay.  3  Evie. 

4  The  large  stone  circle  at  Stennis  is  366  feet  in  diameter.  Thirteen  stones 
are  still  standing;  ten  others  are  prostrate,  and  the  stumps  or  fragments  of 
thirteen  more  bring  the  number  still  recognisable  on  the  site  to  thirty-six.  Vide 
Anderson's  Scot,  in  Pagan  Times,  1 886,  p.  118,  fig.  129;  Barry's  History  of 
Orkney,  p.  217,  2d  ed. 


ORKNEY. 


143 


some  of  the  stones  of  which  are  15  feet  high  and  from  three  to 
six  feet  broad,  and  fifteen  feet  apart.     There  were  about  sixty 


of  them  but  many  lay  on  the  ground,  and  there  are  cavities 
wherein  most  probably  some  of  them  stood.  There  is  a  single 
pillar  about  50  yards  to  the  North  East,  and  a  barrow  to  the 


144  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

North  and  South,  one  to  the  South  West  and  another  to  the 
North  East,  and  what  is  singular,  at  the  distance  of  ten  yards 
is  a  fossee  all  round  the  Circle  about  ten  feet  deep.  A  view  of 
it  is  seen  on  the  other  side  [page  141]. 

We  crossed  over  the  narrow  pass  which  joyns  the  two  parts 
of  the  Lough  on  stones  laid  like  a  wier.  I  was  assured  there 
were  no  Salmon  in  the  Lough,  but  they  have  a  large  kind  of 
trout, — soon  afterwards  we  came  to  another  Circle  of  Stones l 
which  are  15  feet  high,  six  feet  broad,  the  Circle  is  about  30 
yards  in  Diameter,  and  the  stones  are  about  eight  yards  apart ; 
There  are  two  standing  to  the  South,  one  is  wanting,  and  then 
there  are  two  standing  to  the  West,  a  third  laying  down,  then 
two  are  wanting,  there  being  a  space  of  27  yards  so  that  there 
were  eight  in  all :  Eighteen  yards  South  East  from  the  Circle 
is  a  single  stone,  and  125  yards  to  the  East  of  that  is  another 
with  a  hole  2  in  it  on  one  side  towards  the  bottom,  from  which 
going  towards  the  circle  is  another  73  yards  from  the  fossee, 
the  outer  part  of  which  fossee  is  16  yards  from  the  Circle : 
There  are  several  small  barrows  chiefly  to  the  East,  which 
might  be  the  burial  places  of  the  Druids.  A  view  of  the 
Druid  Temple  is  here  seen  [page  143]. 

We  came  on  by  the  Kirk  of  Stenhouse,  to  which  there 
is  a  semicircular  tower,  and  the  whole  building  seems  to  be 
without  Cement,  or  at  most  with  Clay  between  the  stones  and 
is  covered  with  Thatch.  We  went  near  a  beautifull  small  isle 
called  the  Holm  of  Ghimbuster  3  very  near  the  land,  and  such 
another  North  East  of  it  called  Damsa,  both  of  them  in  a  bay 
to  the  North,  and  crossing  over  a  hill  we  passed  by  a  linnen 
Manufacture  for  weaving  and  bleaching  and  a  house  for  Drying 
which  last  is  peculiar  to  Scotland ;  and  soon  come  to  Kirkwall. 
— I  am  &c. 

1  The  smaller  stone  circle  at  Stennis  is  104  feet  in  diameter.     Only  two  pillar- 
stones  remain  standing,  a  third  lies  prostrate,   and  the  stump  of  a  fourth  is 
visible.      Vide  Anderson's  Scot,  in  Pagan  Times,  1886,  p.  119,  fig.  130. 

2  The   Stone  of  Odin,  or  Woden.     In  later  times  lovers  plighted  their  troth 
by  joining  hands  through  the  hole  in  the  stone.     It  was  destroyed  in  December 
1814.      See  Notes  on  Orkney  and  Zetland,  by  Alex.    Peterkin,   1822,  p.   20  ; 
notes  to  The  Pirate,  by  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

3  Grimbister  Holm,  in  the  bay  of  Firth. 


KIRKWALL.  145 


LETTER  XXIX. 

KIRKWALL,  July  6t/l,  1 760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Kirkwall  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  flat  up 
on  the  North  side  of  a  strand  which  is  divided  from  the  bay 
by  a  beach,  with  an  inlet  to  the  West :  The  town  is  near  a 
measured  mile  long ;  excepting  a  few  houses,  it  is  ill  built, 
the  streets  are  paved  with  irregular  flags,  and  'tis  computed 
that  there  are  above  300  families  in  it :  it  has  been  more 
flourishing,  but  now  decayed  and  the  Decay  seems  to  be  owing 
to  the  neglect  of  the  fishery,  for  now  throughout  the  island 
they  are  farmers,  or  go  to  sea,  and  the  former  only  go  out  to 
fish  when  they  want  food.  They  catch  a  great  many  fish  here 
of  a  beautifull  mixed  colour  of  brown  and  of  a  gold  yellow ; 
they  are  called  Keaths x  by  some,  by  others  Cudins,  they  are 
about  six  inches  long ;  in  the  first  year  they  are  called  Sillacks 
and  are  four  inches  long,  the  third  year  and  after  they  are 
called  Seaths  from  eight  inches  to  thirty  long ;  in  England 
they  are  called  Colefish ;  It  is  said  that  all  other  fish  have 
deserted  this  place,  as  they  have  part  of  Shetland,  tho1  there 
they  have  still  a  great  Cod  and  Ling  fishing,  and  also  Tursk,. 
which  is  about  30  inches  long,  and  they  say  is  excellent  when 
salted,  or  dried  as  stock  fish. 

The  Church  of  St.  Magnus  the  old  Cathedral 2  here  is  entire. 
Views  of  the  West  end  with  the  Bishop's  house,  and  of  the  East 
end  are  here  inserted.  It  was  built  by  Roynoald 3  Count  of 
Orkney  in  1138  and  seems  to  have  been  designed  and  first 
executed  near  to  a  Greek  Cross  entirely  in  the  Saxon  Style  ; 
The  Nave  or  body  now  consisting  of  five  arches  on  each  side  ; 

1  Cuithes  or  Cuths. 

'-'  '  It  is  curious  that  we  should  have  to  look  to  the  distant  Orkneys,  and  to 
the  work  of  an  alien  people,  for  the  best  preserved  example  of  the  Romanesque 
in  Scotland.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus,  designed  by  the  Norwegian  Kol, 
and  commenced  by  Earl  Rognvald  in  1137,  contains  "the  greatest  amount  of 
Norman  work  of  any  building  in  Scotland,"  and  in  its  internal  aspect,  according 
to  Mr.  Muir,  is  "nowhere  equalled  by  any  interior  in  Scotland."' — Anderson's 
Scot,  in  Early  Christian  Times,  1881,  p.  zg.  See  Tudor's  Orkneys  and  Shet- 
land, p.  233.  Sir  Henry  E.  L.  Dryden's  Description  of  the  Church  dedicated 
to  St.  Magnus,  and  the  Bishop's  Palace. 

3  Rognvald.     See  Orkneyinga  Saga. 


146  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


KIRKWALL.  147 

The  Choir  only  of  three,  one  of  the  pillars  in  the  Choir  on  each 
side  is  round  with  an  Octagon  plain  Capital,  the  other  square 
with  a  semicircular  pilaster  to  the  West,  and  there  was  a  large 
pier  for  about  the  space  of  one  arch  to  the  East,  to  which  pro- 
bably a  Skreen  was  built  between  the  Altar  and  the  isle,  which 


East  End  of  Kirkwall  Church. 


according  to  the  Ancient  way  might  go  round,  and  so  make  the 
Quire  part  equal  to  the  body  ;  for  there  is  an  isle  on  each  side, 
and  three  arches  are  added  to  the  East  of  the  pillars  composed 
of  several  pilasters  which  form  a  segment  of  a  Circle,  and  have 
what  I  call  the  Corinthian  Gothic  Capital  of  curled  leaves.  It 
appears  that  opposite  to  the  Western  arch  of  the  old  building 
on  each  side  was  a  door  from  the  North  and  from  the  South,  a 


148  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

view  of  the  Church  from  the  West  and  of  the  East  end  are  on 
the  other  side  [pp.  146,  147]. 

The  Choir  is  much  in  the  same  state  as  it  was  fitted  up  in 
1593  by  Patrick  Earl  of  Orkney,  particularly  the  seat  of  the 
Earl  and  Bishop,  who  according  to  the  best  information  I  could 
get,  sat  together,  but  this  inscription  l  and  the  Earl's  Arms  on  it 
has  given  rise  to  the  story  that  the  tyrant  Earl  who  was  be- 
headed, dispossessed  the  Bishop  — 

P.L.O. 

sic  Ft//r 


15)3 

And  opposite  is  a  Gallery  which  now  belongs  to  the  Stewarts 
with  the  same  date,  and  probably  was  the  Seat  of  the  Earl's- 
family. 

In  the  Vestry  which  is  one  of  those  Chapels  from  the  Tran- 
sept are  two  very  large  brass  dishes  for  collecting  alms,  on  both 
of  them  is  Adam  and  Eve,  and  round  one  is  this  inscription  : 
Had  Adam  Gedaen  Gods  woort  Wys  soo  Waer  Hy  Gebleven 
Int  Paradys  Anno  1636.2 

There  are  three  bells  3  in  the  Church  the  two  large  ones  are 
old  and  are  those  given  by  Bishop  Robert  Maxwell  of  1521. 
He  also  beautified  the  Quire  with  Stalls  of  carved  work  :  Bishop 
Robert  Reid  of  1552  the  last  Bishop  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  it 
is  said,  added  a  porch  to  the  Church,  and  tho'  there  is  no 
tradition  of  it  there,  yet  there  seems  to  have  been  a  porch  to 
the  Middle  door  ;  he  also  built  a  Seminary  which  joyns  on  to 
the  Bishop's  house  at  the  West  side  of  it  ;  it  is  said  also  that  he 
beautified  the  Church,  and  added  to  the  number  and  Revenues- 
of  the  Chapter. 

1  This  panel  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Orkney. 

2  Had  Adam  obeyed  God's  words,  so  had  we  then  lived  in  Paradise. 

s  The  date  on  one  of  the  bells  is  1528.      See  account  of  the  bells  of  St.. 
Magnus  by  Sir  Henry  Dryden,  Bart.,  in  Anderson's  Guide  to  Orkney,  App.  p.  161. 


KIRKWALL.  149 

The  Bishop's  House  was  to  the  south  of  the  Cathedral  on  one 
side  of  a  Court,  It  is  built  of  flat  stones  with  window  and  door 
cases  of  the  red  freestone  ;  There  was  one  large  room  in  it : 
But  it  is  said  that  Patrick  Earl  of  Orkney  built  the  grand  house 
on  the  upper  side  of  the  Court  with  fine  bow  windows  to  a  large 
room  and  handsome  Gothic  Chimney  pieces  in  that  room  all  of 
light  coloured  hewn  freestone,  About  the  doors  and  Windows, 
and  on  the  Chimney  pieces  are  his  Arms  and  the  Initial  letters 
P.  E.  O.  On  his  death  it  was  restored,  as  it  is  said,  to  the 
Bishop,  and  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  Bishop's  principal 
house  stood  there,  as  there  is  a  covered  way  from  it  to  a  Chapel, 
all  built  with  the  same  kind  of  materials  as  the  house  below. 
It  is  reported,  that  Bishop  MacKenzie  lived  privately  in  the 
Building  of  the  Seminary  which  is  now  an  hospital. 

To  the  North  West  of  the  Church  and  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Street,  are  remains  of  a  strong  small  Castle  built  in  1379 
by  Henry  Lord  Sinclair  the  first  Count  of  Orkney  of  that 
family.  The  opening  before  the  Church  is  handsome,  the  best 
houses  are  near  it,  and  particularly  the  town  house  and  jayl, 
which  were  built  out  of  a  Fine  for  some  misconduct ;  Towards 
the  further  end  of  the  town  is  an  Hospital :  And  a  furlong  to 
the  north  of  the  town  is  a  small  fort  with  ramparts  of  Earth 
and  two  small  irregular  bastions  to  the  sea,  made  by  the  order 
of  Cromwell ;  where  they  used  to  have  some  Canon,  and  one 
still  remains. 

We  walked  up  a  hill  to  the  South  of  the  town  in  which  are 
several  very  small  barrows,  which  are  often  found  three  together, 
and  under  them  are  commonly  four  stones  set  up  on  end  covered 
with  a  single  stone,  and  they  generally  find  a  single  urn  with 
burnt  bones  in  it.  From  this  hill  we  had  a  fine  view  of  all  the 
Northern  islands,  except  North  Ronaldsha,  which  they  say  is 
the  most  beautifull,  and  entirely  covered  with  Corn ;  Westra 
is  rather  rocky.  They  are  all  within  sixteen  miles  of  Kirkwall, 
except  Ronaldsha  and  Papa  Westra ;  and  these  are  very  near 
the  others.  They  are  all  most  beautifull  spots  in  summer, 
when  the  corn  is  green  :  And  they  never  give  the  land  rest,  but 
make  a  Compost  of  Earth,  Sea  Weed,  Horse  dung  and  the  like 
for  the  crop  of  bare-barley,  and  the  next  year  take  a  crop  of 
Oats.  On  Westra  is  an  old  Castle  commonly  said  to  be  built 


150  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

by  Earl  Bothwell,  but  I  was  assured  that  the  Shell  was  finished 
before  it  came  into  his  possession.  Patrick,  Earl  of  Orkney, 
commonly  called  the  Tyrant,  was  natural  son  of  Robert  Stewart1 
one  of  the  base  sons  of  James  5th,  he  underwent  a  Trial  for  his 
tyrannical  acts,  and  ordered  to  sett  all  things  right,  and  James 
the  6th  having  bought  his  estates,  which  were  mortgaged  and 
taken  possession  of,  the  Earl  sent  his  natural  son  John  to  take 
the  possession,  which  he  accordingly  did,  as  well  as  of  the 
Castle  of  Kirkwall  in  which  the  Earl  was  taken,  condemned  for 
Treason,  and  beheaded  in  1614. 

The  Earl  of  Moreton  has  the  chief  influence  in  the  Orkneys, 
he  has  an  estate  of  500  £  a  year  in  them,  and  the  Crown  having 
given  him  the  Earl's  lands  for  an  old  Debt  due  to  him  from  the 
Government,  he  obtained  an  irredemiable  right  in  them  by  an 
Act  of  Parl*  and  lie  has  improved  them  so  as  to  bring  in 
1500  £  a  year.  He  has  also  the  Bishop's  lands  that  are  let  also 
at  a  fixed  rent  of  <£J500  a  year  which  is  every  year  remitted  to 
the  Earl. 

The  Earl  of  Galway  -  owns  Flota  and  another  island,  and  part 
of  Bursa. 

I  had  a  letter  to  the  provost  of  Kirkwall,  who  chose  to 
visit  me  with  two  of  the  Corporation  in  his  public  Capacity, 
and  if  I  had  staid  another  day,  it  was  signified  to  me  that  they 
intended  to  present  me  with  the  freedom  3  of  the  town,  which 
they  afterward  pressed  by  a  Message,  but  I  was  obliged  to 
depart :  The  wifes  and  Daughters  of  most  of  the  better  sort 
are  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  do  not  go  to  the  Kirk  ;  but 
read  prayers  to  themselves  at  home  :  And  I  found  it  would  have 
been  very  agreeable  to  them  if  I  could  have  staid  there  some 
days.  Keith  in  his  history  of  the  Bishopricks  of  Scotland  saies, 
that  the  people  of  these  islands  would  not  at  first  attend  the 
Services  of  the  New  Established  Religion. — I  am,  &c. 

1  For  account  of  the   Stuart   family,  see  Chap.    ii.  Peterkin's   Orkney  and 
Zetland. 

2  Earl  of  Galloway. 

3  The  Kirkwall  Corporation  Minutes  for  this  period  have  been  lost.     Mr.  W. 
Cowper,    Town-Clerk,   writes :    '  For  some   reason   unknown   the   Minutes   of 
Town  Council  meetings  between  the  years  1743-64  have  never  been  recorded  in 
the  Minute-Book,  nor  are  there  any  Draft  Minutes  of  meetings  during  these  years 
among  the  Burgh  papers.' 


KIRKWALL,  WALLS.  151 


LETTER  XXX. 

WYCK  IN  CATHNESS,  July  i$e/i,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  8th  I  left  Kirkwall  which  might  be 
made  a  pretty  town  by  establishing  a  fishery  and  trade  and 
making  a  flood  gate  to  keep  the  Sea  out  of  the  Strand  which  is 
to  the  West  of  the  town.  We  came  over  the  heathy  hill  four 
miles  to  the  South  part  of  the  island  to  Mr.  Graham's  of 
Gromshall 1  situated  on  a  bay  near  the  South  East  point  of  the 
island,  and  on  a  fresh  water  Lough,  in  which  there  are  trouts 
and  Eels ;  it  has  an  Outlet  into  the  Sea,  and  a  small  rivulet 
falls  into  it ;  here  is  a  fine  spot  of  tillage  and  pasturage,  and 
from  the  hill  over  it  we  had  a  view  of  many  of  the  southern 
isles ;  no  tree  will  grow  here  above  the  walls,  and  they  plant 
gooseberries  as  well  as  apples  against  walls.  We  spent  most 
part  of  the  day  here,  and  set  out  in  the  even  with  a  contrary 
wind,  and  rather  too  high,  but  rowing  near  the  islands  of 
Lamen 2  and  Glimsholm  we  came  in  two  hours  and  a  quarter 
two  leagues  under  the  Lee  Shoare  of  the  Calf  of  Flota  belong- 
ing to  Lord  Galway,3  as  well  as  Flota ;  rowing  near  the  islands 
of  Burra  and  Hunda  we  were  under  shelter ;  and  going  by 
Flota  we  were  somewhat  exposed  till  we  got  under  the  shelter 
of  Fara  and  Risa  and  soon  came  into  the  Bay  called  Long* 
Hope,  and  at  the  end  of  it  came  again  to  Melsetir  Capt" 
Moodie's  house  from  which  I  set  out. 

This  Gentleman's  Ancestors  with  three  others  were  anciently 
the  chief  proprietors,  but  whether  of  the  Orkneys  or  this 
island  I  cannot  recollect.  His  father  was  Capt11  of  a  Man  of 
war,  and  Commodore 4  of  a  number  of  Ships  which  relieved 

1  Graemeshall.  '-'  Lambholm.  3  Earl  of  Galloway. 

4  Commodore  Moodie  received  a  Sword  of  Honour.  It  was  sold  about  1817, 
and  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Donald  Moodie,  and  is  now  supposed  to  be  in  the 
possession  of  his  son,  Mr.  Dunbar  Moodie,  late  Magistrate  at  Ladysmith,  South 
Africa.  Queen  Anne  granted  an  augmentation  of  Arms  to  the  Commodore — a 
Naval  crown,  with  lion  holding  a  pennon  or,  charged  with  an  eagle  with  two 
heads  displayed  s able  ;  motto,  '  The  Reward  of  Valour. '  When  an  old  man,  he 
was  assassinated  by  the  Stewarts  of  Burray,  and  their  adherents,  in  the  streets  of 
Kirkwall.  Melsetter  is  now  the  property  of  Mr.  Heddle,  who  is  a  descendant  of 
the  Moodies.  See  p.  134. 


152  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Denia  in  Spain  when  besieged ;  on  which  Charles  the  3d,  after- 
wards Emperour,  presented  him  with  a  batoon,  and  writ  a 
letter  in  his  favour  to  Queen  Anne  with  his  own  hands  in 
french,  both  which  I  saw,  and  gave  him  leave  to  wear  the 
black  Eagle  in  his  pennant,  which  was  given  likewise  by  Lyon 
King  of  Arms  under  his  Seal,  with  other  Armorial  Ensigns. 
This  Gentleman  was  most  barbarously  murdered  by  Sr.  James 
Stewart,1  who  provoking  him  to  fight  before  the  great  Church 
at  Kirkwall,  made  a  signal  to  persons  to  come  upon  him 
and  put  him  to  Death  :  Stewart  being  deeply  engaged  in  the 
rebellion  in  1746,  it  happened  to  fall  to  the  share  of  Cap* 
Moodie's  Son  to  take  him,  who  from  the  Cutter  delivered  him 
on  board  a  Man  of  war ;  He  was  conveyed  to  London  lodged 
in  South wark  Jayl,  and  to  prevent  the  forfeiture  of  his  Estate, 
"'tis  thought  he  poisoned  himself,  being  found  dead  in  the  Jayl, 
and  swoln  to  a  very  extraordinary  degree. 

There  were  six  gentlemen  in  this  island  in  the  rebellion,  in 
which  it  was  exactly  computed  in  1746  that  there  were  33,800 
souls  :  2  They  have  taken  lately  many  of  all  degrees  for  the  Sea 
service,  so  that  probably  the  people  are  not  at  present  more  in 
number  than  at  that  time  :  Their  genius  lyes  entirely  to  Navi- 
gation. They  dress  like  Seamen,  and  never  in  the  Scotch  dress, 
except  that  the  women  wear  the  plad  like  a  hood,  on  their 
heads,  and  brought  over  their  arms  like  a  short  scarf,  there 
is  now  no  Norn  or  Norwegian  spoken  but  all  English  with  the 
Norwegian  accent,  which  differs  from  the  English  no  more 
than  one  County  does  from  another ;  but  they  have  particular 
words  and  manner  of  expression :  And  they  are  in  general  a 
good  kind  of  people,  who  must  have  every  Necessary  of  Life 
within  themselves,  for  there  are  no  Markets.  In  this  bay  of 
Waies  they  have  plenty  of  Lobsters  and  of  very  large  Oysters : 
They  have  Scollops  with  two  hollow  shells,  and  pectons  with 
one  flat  shell  both  large ;  they  roast  them  and  also  pickle 
them.  In  this  bay  also  they  have  banks  of  Cockles  with  which 
at  Spring  tydes  they  load  their  boats  and  put  them  in  an 

1  See  The  Orkneys  and  Shetland:  Their  Past  and  Present  State,  by  John  R. 
Tudor,  1883,  p.  232. 

2  The  estimated  population  of  the  county  of  Orkney  and  Shetland  in   1755 
was  38,591.     The  census  of  1881  was  61,746. 


ORKNEY,  SHETLAND.  153 

enclosure  where  the  Sea  conies  in  ;  to  serve  them  for  the  whole 
month ;  The  spawn  must  be  very  numerous  to  keep  up  the 
bank  which  never  fails,  and  they  find  them  no  bigger  than  a 
pin's  head. 

The  Tydes  here  and  in  Petland  or  Pentland  Frith  are  very 
extraordinary  and  in  the  Frith  the  Tydes  run  so  high  that 
there  is  no  such  thing  as  stemming  them ;  they  must  cross 
with  the  tyde ;  And  the  Seas  run  as  high  in  the  Frith  as  in  the 
bay  of  Biscay.  For  the  nature  of  these  tydes  I  referr  to 
Mackenzie's  or  Cade"s,  who  examined  them  most  exactly.  The 
post  comes  over  from  Ratter  every  Tuesday  when  the  weather 
permits,  lands  at  South  Ronaldsha,  crosses  to  the  North  End 
of  it,  ferrys  over  to  Burra,  then  goes  North  and  embarks  for 
Gromshall  Ferry  house,  and  so  goes  to  Kirkwall,  from  which 
place  the  bag  is  sent  to  Stromness  and  the  letters  are  dispersed 
to  the  different  places ;  And  a  boat  on  Monday  takes  the  bag 
at  the  Ferry  house  and  so  it  goes  in  the  same  manner  to 
be  conveyed  to  Ratter  by  the  boat  that  brings  over  the 
letters. 

These  isles  (some  little  ones  excepted)  are  about  forty  in 
number :  In  the  isle  of  Waies  near  Capt11  Moody's  the  rocks 
are  of  a  yellow  freestone,  but  at  a  little  distance  to  the  West 
on  a  bay  is  a  broad  vein  of  a  red  freestone  which  crumbles  at 
top  but  is  hard  below ;  it  is  full  of  pebbles,  and  little  veins  of 
Spar  intermixed  some  of  which  are  incrusted  with  a  red  stone 
as  if  caused  by  water  running  from  Iron  Ore. 

From  North  Ronaldsha  it  is  about  seven  leagues  to  Fail- 
Island,  and  from  that  to  Shetland  about  five  more,  if  I  mistake 
not ;  Shetland,  with  the  isles  about  it,  have  a  great  trade  with 
Hamburgh  :  They  carry  Cod,  Lyng  and  Torsk,  and  bring  back 
Spirits  and  Dutch  Tobacco  and  many  goods  they  want  in 
those  islands  as  Apparell  £c.  They  differ  from  the  people  of 
Orkney,  chiefly  among  the  better  sort,  in  their  dress,  in  which 
they  affect  to  be  fine  and  have  much  of  the  German  manners, 
are  very  decent  and  observers  of  form,  extremely  hospitable 
and  civil  to  Strangers ;  They  are  very  sociable  among  them- 
selves, but  are  rather  apt  to  go  to  excess  in  drinking,  and 
Deal  very  much  in  Spiritous  Liquors ;  They  have  a  small 
breed  of  Horses  7  or  8  hands  high  as  I  was  informed.  They 


154  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

have  one  town  which  is  called  Ylesbury l  which  is  a  good 
Harbour. 

The  largest  island  is  called  also  the  Mainland  and  affords 
the  same  Game  as  in  the  Orkneys,  except  that  they  have  not 
the  Grouse,  and  the  reason  assigned  is  that  the  Heath  does 
not  blow  there,  which  is  their  food  :  These  islands,  with  the 
Orkneys  form  one  County  and  are  under  a  Depute  Sheriff,  who 
has  a  substitute  in  Kirkwall  and  in  Shetland,  where  he  himself 
at  present  lives.  .  .  .2  Leagues  .  .  .2  off  Shetland  are  the 
Faroe  islands  belonging  to  the  King  of  Denmark.  Wormius 
saies  a  fossil  wood  or  bituminous  fossil  is  found  in  the  isle  of 
Faro,  that  it  does  not  easily  take  fire  but  shines  like  the 
Gagates,3  is  found  in  the  joynts  of  the  rocks,  and  is  taken  out 
in  lamina  or  splinters  three  or  four  inches  thick.  He  saies 
also  there  are  fossil  strata  like  wood  4  in  Iceland.  See  Horre- 
bowns  Ace*  of  Iceland. 

They  produce  a  small  but  strong  breed  of  Draft  horses 
about  13  hands  high,  of  which  as  I  was  told,  the  King  of 
Denmark  sent  a  present  of  a  yellow  sett  to  the  King  of  Eng- 
land ;  The  export  of  them  is  strictly  prohibited.  These  and 
fish  are  the  only  productions  which  Denmark  avails  itself  of; 

1  Islesburgh  on  Islesburgh  Voe — Northmaven.  It  is  not  quite  apparent  why 
this  small  place  should  be  mentioned,  possibly  a  hasty  conclusion  from  the 
termination  burgh  ;  or  Scalloway,  which  was  then  the  only  important  town,  and 
being  just  inside  the  Burra  Isle,  may  have  given  rise  to  the  name,  Islesbury. 

•  About  58  leagues  north-west  from  Shetland. 

B  '  Iceland  produces  two  sorts  of  agate.  The  one  will  burn  like  a  candle,  and 
is  in  fact  a  species  of  bitumen.  The  other,  which  the  Icelanders  call  Hrafntinna 
(black  flint  stone)  does  not  burn.  It  is  harder  than  the  former,  and  will  break 
into  flakes,  which  are  very  transparent,  and  not  unlike  glass.' — The  Natural 
History  of  Iceland,  by  N.  Horrebow,  1758,  ch.  xvii.  'Obsidian — This  stone, 
which  is  found  in  Peru  and  Quito,  the  Spaniards  also  call  Piedra  de  Galinazzo, 
or  Raven  Stone,  which  is  the  signification  of  the  Icelandic  Hrafntinna.' — Hen- 
derson's Iceland,  1818,  vol.  i.  p.  178. 

4  '  A  very  extraordinary  sort  of  wood,  which  they  call  sorte  brand,  or  black 
band,  very  hard,  heavy  and  black,  like  ebony,  is  found  somewhat  deep  in  the 
ground  [in  Iceland]  in  broad,  thin,  and  pretty  long  pannels  or  leaves,  fit  for  a 
moderate  size  table.  It  is  generally  wavy  or  undulating,  and  is  always  found 
between  the  rocks  or  great  stones,  wedged  as  it  were,  quite  close  in.  At  first, 
on  considering  its  situation,  I  was  very  doubtful  whether  it  was  wood  or  petri- 
faction, but  as  it  could  be  planed  and  managed  in  ever)'  respect  like  wood,  the 
shavings  also  having  the  appearance  of  such,  I  was  induced  to  think  that  it  is 
nothing  but  wood.' — Horrebow's  Nat.  Hist.  Iceland,  1758,  ch.  xx.  p.  33. 


SHETLAND,  ICELAND.  155 

Iceland  also  is  under  the  dominion  of  Denmark.  In  the  inland 
parts  of  which  island,  they  live  in  Caves,  and  are  not  Christians 
— Pagans  ?  and  bring  down  skins  of  black  Cattle  and  deer, 
and  Tallow  to  exchange  for  fish,  but  live  chiefly  on  their  Cattle. 
Those  on  the  Sea  deal  in  these  Commodities  and  fish,  and  they 
sell  also  white  fox,  and  squirrel  skins :  The  King  of  Denmark 
suffers  no  one  to  trade  with  them,  but  sends  two  ships  loaded 
with  Corn  every  year,  who  truck  for  these  Commodities ;  and 
he  has  two  ships  also  cruizing  all  the  summer  to  hinder  any 
ships  from  trading,  or  taking  away  any  of  the  people ;  and 
when  he  is  engaged  in  war,  he  obliges  them  to  furnish  men 
both  for  land  and  sea  service :  They  have  plenty  of  hay,  but 
no  Corn,  and  with  that  they  feed  their  Cattle  in  Winter. 

The  Faroe  islands  are  in  much  the  same  situation,  except 
that  their  people  are  not  so  strictly  prohibited  from  going  out 
of  the  islands.  A  governor  resides  at  Iceland.  The  Green- 
land whale  fishery  is  between  Lapland  and  Greenland ;  several 
ships  go  from  England  and  Scotland  every  year,  and  touch 
mostly  at  Shetland ;  They  often  go  ashore  in  Summer  at 
Greenland,  and  kill  a  great  many  animals  for  their  Skins. — I 
am,  &c. 

LKTTKU  XXXI. 

DUNBEATH,   IN  CATHNESS, 

July  i6t/tt  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  llth  we  crossed  over  in  two  hours  to 
Ralter  in  Scotland  to  Mr.  Sinclair's.  We  rid  in  the  afternoon 
to  the  east,  and  in  a  mile  came  to  Sir  James  Sinclair's  (a  branch 
of  the  same  family),  pleasantly  situated  opposite  to  the  middle 
of  a  bay.  In  all  this  coast  the  rocks  consist  of  a  fine  flagstone, 
dipping  from  south-west  to  north-east.  It  being  a  fine  even- 
ing, we  saw  a  great  number  of  boats  fishing.  We  passed  by 
the  Parish  Church  of  ...  ^  and  towards  Dungsby  Head  (the 
Virubrium  promontorium  of  the  new  map),  we  came  to  '  Johnny 
Grotfs  House,1  which  is  in  ruins,  and  from  a  quondam  inhabi- 
tant of  that  name,  gives  the  appellation  to  this  angle  of  Scot- 
land. There  are  on  this  strand  a  great  number  of  the  small 

1  Canisby. 


156  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

striated  Buccinum  shells,  and  some  of  the  very  small  shells 
striated  likewise,  of  that  kind  which  are  called  the  porcelain 
shell,1  and  are  here  named  '  Johnny  Grotfs  Buckeys?  probably 
from  some  confusion  of  the  name  of  the  other  shells  ;  We 
ascended  a  height  at  the  Head  to  view  the  Eastern  sea,  and, 
returning,  the  dairymaids  daughter  brought  us  a  bowl  of  milk 
by  way  of  refreshment. 

They  bring  to  this  place  limestone  from  Stroma,  the  direct 
passage  to  which  is  not  above  a  mile  ;  And  it  is  about  as  much 
more  from  that  to.  .  .  .'2  isle ;  In  the  latter  are  about  a  dozen 
families,  and  it  lets  for  about  £\5  ster.  a  year,  being  a  mile 
round.  Stroma  is  two  or  three  miles  round.  There  are  about 
thirty  families  in  it,  and  it  lets  for  a  hundred  pounds  a  year. 
On  the  east  point  of  it  is  a  small  building  over  a  burial-place, 
where  the  bodies  remain  entire,3  and  the  skin  does  not  corrupt, 
owing  to  the  nitre  in  the  air,  which  preserves  equally  with  salt 
when  applied  to  animal  bodies. 

Part  of  our  way  led  us  over  what  appeared  to  be  fine  green 
sod,  like  a  down,  but  when  we  came  upon  it  the  horses  sunk 
into  it,  and  we  were  obliged  to  trot  on  fast,  &  it  was  very  dis- 
agreeable :  In  wet  weather 'it  must  be  almost  impassible. 

I  walked  out  from  Mr.  Sinclair's  house  half  a  mile  to  the 
west,  to  see  a  Picfs  house  4  in  a  mount  on  the  sea  cliff  ;  I  found 
two  cells,  three  yards  apart,  and  the  mouth  about  a  yard  wide ; 
The  passage  to  one  is  destroyed,  and,  as  I  apprehended,  two 
yards  of  the  other  ;  It  is  three  yards  into  a  bend,  and  then  two 
yards  more  ;  The  cell  within  is  two  yards  wide  and  five  yards 
long  in  a  sort  of  an  oval,  and  at  the  entrance  is  a  sett  in  of 
three  quarters  of  a  yard,  and  on  the  other  side  it  forms  the 
narrow  end  of  the  oval,  the  sides  are  straight  for  a  yard  high, 
and  set  in  for  another  yard  to  three  quarters  of  a  yard  in  width 
at  top,  which  is  covered  with  flags  ;  There  are  two  or  three 
small  holes  as  convenient  recesses ;  The  other  cell  is  only  a 
yard  and  a  half  high.  At  the  end  is  a  hole,  half  a  yard  above 

1  See  Calder's  History  of  Caithness,  1861,  p.  10.  2  Swona. 

3  'Stroma,  famous  for  its  natural  mummies.' — Pennant's  Tour,  1769,  p.  197. 
'The  mummies  are  now  destroyed,  and  the  chapel  is  unroofed  and  mouldering 
into  ruin.' — Old  Stat.  Ac.,  1793,  v°l-  v"i-  P-  1&S- 

4  See  Pre- Historic  Remains  of  Caithness,  by  Laing  and  Huxley,  1866. 


CAITHNESS. 


157 


the  floor,  about  two  feet  six  inches  high,  three  feet  long,  and 
three  feet  broad,  lessening  by  a  set  in  of  three  quarters  of  a 
yard,  and  this  was  probably  a  chimney,  as  there  seemed  to  have 
been  an  opening  to  the  top.  Both  the  cells  and  passages  have 
without  doubt  been  in  some  degree  filled  with  earth,  for  it  is 
with  difficulty  any  one  can  get  in  by  the  passages,  which  are 


\          15 1         30t         I5i          &>[         7Si 
hiiiiiifiiiiiil  I  I t_-__" 

€  of  Seventy  fiueSooi  , 

The  Plan  of  a  Pict's  House. 


about  a  yard  high.  From  the  supposed  end  of  the  entrance  I 
measured  ten  yards  to  a  wall,  which  is  the  segment  of  a  circle ; 
so  that  I  imagine  this  was  a  way  all  round ;  from  which  they 
entered  to  the  cells,  and  it  being  about  eighty  yards  round,, 
allowing  four  yards  to  each  cell,  and  the  space  between,  there 
might  be  twenty  cells  for  so  many  sleeping  places,  or  whatever 


158  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

other  use  they  were  put  to ;  Part  of  such  circular  passages  I 
found  in  other  Picts1  houses ;  and  they  have  all  a  terrace  round 
them,  where  probably  these  circular  passages  of  communication 
were ;  And  as  they  might  be  used  as  places  of  defence  as  well 
as  mansion  houses,  when  the  enemy  intended  to  destroy  them 
as  lurking  places,  they  might  do  it  by  breaking  down  these 
circular  passages,  and  so  formed  these  terraces  ;  &  this  confirms 
the  opinion  that  the  passages  were  high  enough  for  proper 
entrances,  as  they  must  have  been  as  low  as  the  bottom  of  the 
circular  passages.  (As  this  gallery  was  thirty  feet  wide,  it  is  to 
be  doubted  whether  it  was  covered.)  Into  this  gallery  round 
the  cells  they  might  drive  their  cattle  for  security  as  well  as 
shelter. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXII. 

July  2ist,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  12th  I  proceeded  on  my  journey, 
and  came  six  miles  west  to  the  Earl  of  Cathness"s  house  of 
Myrtle,1  situated  on  the  sea-side  in  a  very  fine  corn  country,  and 
in  the  afternoon  went  four  miles  to  the  south-east  to  Sir  Patrick 
Dunbar's,  situated  near  two  loughs  2  made  by  the  rivers  which 
fall  in  at  Wick,  and  rise  a  little  above  the  western  lake,  on 
each  side  of  which  there  is  marl ;  and  there  is  also  lime- 
stone in  most  parts  of  this  country :  in  the  nearest  lake  is 
an  island,  in  which  the  sea-gulls  breed.  The  water  runs  in 
half  a  mile  to  another  larger  lake ;  there  are  trouts  and  eels 
in  both  of  them.  There  are  but  nine  parishes  in  Cathness, 
five  of  the  churches  are  on  the  northern  coast,  &  the 
three  eastern  parishes  talk  English  and  no  Eirshe,  and  also 
two  others  in  this  part.  One  would  suppose  them  originally  to 
be  a  colony  either  of  Danes  or  Norwegians,  or  from  the 
Orkneys.  The  Sinclairs  are  certainly  from  Orkney,  &  in  the 
Orkneys,  many  of  the  families  are  descendants  of  governors  of  the 

]  Murkle.  a  Lochs  Scarmclet  and  Watten. 


CAITHNESS.  159 

Isles,  either  Danish  or  Scotch.  But  the  Sin  Clairs  or  St.  Clairs 
were  originally  either  Normans  or  French,  as  were  the  Erasers, 
Boswells,  Mowbrys,  Montgomerys,  Campbells,  Boises,  Betons, 
Tabziours,  and  Bothwells :  The  fugitives  who  were  received 
by  Malcolm  in  the  time  of  AVilliam  the  Conqueror  were 
the  Lindsays,  Towers,  Ramsays,  Prestons,  Sandilands,  Bissets, 
Wardlaws,  Maxwells,  Fowlis,  and  Lovetts ;  &  about  the  same 
time  several  came  from  Hungary  at  the  request  of  Queen 
Margaret ;  These  were  the  Creightons,  Fotheringhams,  Both- 
wicks,  Gift'ards,  Melvils,  unless  the  two  last  may  be  rather 
thought  to  be  Normans.  D.  Scot's  '  History,"1  p.  141.  I  saw 
two  more  churches  in  the  neighbourhood,  not  above  three  miles 
from  the  North  Sea,  Wyck  is  the  eighth,  and  that  in  which 
Dunbeath  is  situated  is  the  ninth.  Cathness  is  30  miles  long 
from  north  to  south  and  20  miles  broad  from  east  to  west,  but 
the  breadth  must  be  much  more  in  measured  miles.  When  we 
came  to  the  summit  over  Sir  Patrick  Dunbar's  house,  we  had  a 
most  uncommon  prospect  of  the  broad  vale  in  which  his  house 
stands,  of  another  separated  by  low  hills  or  eminences,  with  a 
great  number  of  gentlemen's  seats,  and  two  churches  in  view, 
two  large  lakes,  the  fine  mountains  of  the  Paps,  and  that  ridge 
which  bounds  the  county,  and  the  ground  rising  gently  on  all 
sides;  but  what  is  most  singular  spots  of  corn  all  over  the  county, 
contrasted  with  such  a  mixture  either  of  heath  or  pasturage  as 
rendered  the  face  of  this  northern  country  very  agreeable. 

They  have  here,  and  as  I  was  told,  in  the  Orkneys  also,  a  very 
uncommon  way  of  preserving  barley,  which  they  must  thresh 
in  order  to  have  straw  to  fodder  their  cattle.  They  make  a 
foundation  of  loose  stones  five  feet  in  diameter,  lay  chaff  on  it, 
and  add  a  heap  of  corn  in  the  middle,  then  they  sett  up  straw  on 
end  all  round  the  stones,  and  put  in  more  corn,  and  as  it  fills 
they  bind  it  round  with  straw  ropes,  and  so  continue  raising 
the  straw  untill  it  is  about  eight  feet  high,  &  they  finish  it 
in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  covering  the  top  well  with  straw,  and 
bind  it  round  with  such  ropes  of  straw  as  they  lay  over  their 
thatched  houses.  They  have  also  a  neat  way  of  dressing  their 
thatched  houses  in  the  roof  within,  I  mean  people  of  some 
condition.  For  about  four  feet  of  the  lower  part  they  lay 
flags,  then  on  to  the  top  ropes  of  straw  close  together  and 


160  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

drawn  tight ;  On  others  they  lay  the  sods  and  then  the  thatch  ; 1 
There  are  two  ways  of  laying  straw,  either  regular  as  they 
thatch  in  England,  or  laid  loose  and  kept  down  with  straw 
ropes,  in  which  last  case  it  is  renewed  every  year.  They  make 
near  the  sea  a  compost  of  sods,  seaweed,  and  dung,  move  it 
once,  and  then  shred  it  off  very  thin  to  lay  on  the  lands. 

This  is  the  country  of  the  Sinclairs,  under  their  antient  head 
the  Earl  of  Cathness,  and  there  are  but  three  or  four  other 
names  in  the  county,  two  of  which  are  the  Dunbars  and 
Murrays. 

On  the  14th,  I  travelled  eight  miles,  mostly  near  the  river, 
to  Acright,2  Sir  William  Dunbarr^s,  situated  close  to  the  sea  by 
a  fine  old  castle.  I  went  to  see  the  castles  of  Carnigo  and 
Sinclair,3  the  first  situated  on  a  rock  over  the  sea,  and  separated 
from  the  land  by  a  deep  fossee,  over  which  there  was  a  draw- 
bridge. A  view  is  here  seen  [p.  161],  The  other  is  close  to  it, 
built  for  an  elder  son  ;  in  both  of  them  are  several  appartments, 
and  beyond  the  first  are  several  little  courts  on  the  rocks : 
Sinclair  was  built  in  the  time  of  King  Charles  the  Second,  and 
the  King's  Arms  are  on  it ;  a  view  is  here  seen  [p.  162].  This 
Sinclair  was  the  last  Earl  of  that  line.  From  this  place  I  went 
to  see  the  Slate  Quarry,  which  produces  a  large  blew  slate,  but 
rather  thick  and  heavy. 

On  the  15th  I  came  two  miles  to  Wyck,  a  small  borough 
town  pleasantly  situated  on  a  little  bay  which  is  no  harbour : 
They  have  an  export  of  Corn,  Salt  Beef,  Salmon,  hydes,  butter 
and  tallow,  but  on  the  whole,  it  has  but  small  trade.  In  the 
Church  they  shew  a  tomb  under  a  Nich  which  they  call 
S*  .  .  .  .*  to  whom  the  Church  is  dedicated ;  the  hands  are 
joyned  as  in  a  praying  posture.  It  was  probably  the  founder, 
restorer,  or  improver  of  the  Church.  This  is  the  only  borough 
in  Cathness.  Passing  two  or  three  miles  further  we  called  at 
the  house  5  of  Mr.  Sinclair  the  provost ;  where  I  took  leave  of  Mr 

1  See  Sir  John  Sinclair's  Northern  Counties  of  Scot.,  1795,  pp.  193,  211. 
-  Ackergill  Tower.     See  Calder's  Hist.  Caithness,  title-page. 

3  Girnigoe  and  Sinclair  Castles.     See  Cordiner's  Antiq.  North  of  Scot.,  1780, 
p.  82,  PI.  17  ;  and  for  views  and  plans,  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castellated  Arch, 
of  Scotland,  1887,  vol.  ii.  pp.  307-313,  and  Calder's  Hist.  Caithness,  Frontispiece. 

4  St.  Fergus. 

5  Provost  Sinclair  then  resided  at  Thrumster  House. 


CASTLE  GIRNIGOE. 


161 


r/!f% 
lx<- 


162 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


William  Dunbarr ;  and  then  the  Provost  and  another  gentle- 
man 1  went  with  me  5  or  6  miles  to  Mr.  Sinclair's  of  ....  2 


Castle  Sinclair. 

where  I  dined  ;  and  the  master  of  the  house  and  one  Mr. 
Sinclair  desired  to  meet  me,  they  accompanied  me  allmost  to 
Dunbeath,  Mr.  Sinclair's,  the  Sheriff's  Deputy  of  Cathness  and 
Sutherland,  the  former  returning.  This  place  is  sixteen  miles 
from  Wyck,  the  country  for  the  most  part  heathy,  with  patches 
of  corn  about  it  and  particularly  near  the  rivulets.  The  Castle 

1  '  Mr.  William  Sutherland  of  Wester,  is  a  gentleman  of  reading,  and  had 
been  bred  to  the  sea,  whereby  he  had  visited  many  foreign  Countries  ;  particularly 
he  was  once  nigh  to  the  city  of  Jerusalem,  but  some  Incident  or  other  had  pre- 
vented his  seeing  of  it.     These  particulars  made  his   conversation   extremely 
acceptable  to  the  Bishop  of  Ossory  ;  for  they  compared  Notes  together  as  to  the 
Places  they  had  both  been  in,  and  their  accounts  of  them  tallied  exactly.    Wester 
gave  him  the  Convoy  till  he  came  near  to  the  Castle  of  Dunbeath.' — Bp.  Forbes's 
Journals,  ed.  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  209. 

2  Lybster. 


CAITHNESS.  163 

of  Dunbeath  was  built  by  one  of  the  branches  of  the  family  of 
the  Earl  of  Cathness ;  it  is  on  a  rock  which  projects  into  the 
sea,  but  there  was  no  drawbridge  to  it ;  the  rock  continues  for 
a  hundred  yards  behind  the  house,  having  a  narrow  fossee  to 
the  south  above  thirty  fathoms  deep,  with  perpendicular  rocks 
on  each  side,  and  the  sea  to  the  north  :  In  the  cliffs  are  several 
strata  of  different  kinds  of  stone,  among  which  are  freestone 
and  limestone :  &  there  are  patches  of  limestone  all  over  this 
country ;  some  of  the  strata  coming  near  the  surface  ;  though 
it  has  not  been  found  out  twenty  years.  The  Marquis  of 
Montrose  in  the  Civil  War  spent  twenty-six  days  in  besieging 
this  castle,1  where  there  was  deposited  a  considerable  sum  of 
money,  and  part  of  his  followers  thinking  he  was  gone  by  sea, 
did  not  meet  him  on  the  Kyle  of  Dornoch,  which  was  the  cause 
of  his  defeat. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXIII. 

DUNROBIN,  lythjtily  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  16th  the  Sheriff  and  Mr.  Sinclair 
accompanied  me,  and  we  travelled  to  the  south  mostly  over 
heaths,  diversified  here  and  there  with  several  spots  of  corn. 
We  passed  by  the  remains  of  a  Picts'  house  in  which  part  of 
the  circular  wall  remains,  and  in  it  an  entrance  stopped  up. 
We  came  to  a  beautifull  romantic  vale,  through  which  a 
rivulet  runs  that  is  formed  a  little  higher  by  two  branches 
which  pass  through  such  vales.  They  are  called  Berrydale; 
and  this  river  seems  to  be  the  Ila  of  the  new  map,  which  was 
the  bounds  between  the  Carnabii  and  the  Logi.  We  soon 
reached  the  foot  of  those  hills,  out  of  which  all  the  rivers  rise 
that  run  to  the  east,  north,  and  west. 

This  famous  pass  is  called  the  Ord ;  and  Berrydale  river  is 
difficult  to  pass  in  winter,  when  the  torrent  has  brought  down 
great  stones,  which  are  moved  away  in  the  summer  to  make  an 
£asy  passage  across  that  stream.  The  ascent  to  the  Ord  is 

1  See  Civil  and  Traditional  Hist,  of  Caithness,  by  James  T.  Calder,  p.  151. 


164          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

steep,  and  the  road  over  the  steep  hill  is  frightfull  to  those 
who  have  not  been  used  to  such  kind  of  roads ;  but  is  not  in 
the  least  difficult,  only  it  is  more  pleasant  to  walk  rather  than 
ride  over  some  parts  of  it.  It  seems  to  be  the  Ripa  Alta  of 
the  new  map. 

Having  passed  the  principal  heights  we  came  to  a  rivulet 
called  Navidale,  which  is  the  bounds  between  Cathness  and 
Sutherland.  We  soon  after  got  to  Hemsdale,1  where  there  is 
a  salmon  fishery.  Here  the  tyde  being  in,  we  crossed  in  a 
coble  in  the  shape  of  a  boat  cut  in  two,  and  our  horses 
forded  over  half  a  mile  higher.  By  this  dale  there  is  a 
pretty  good  road  towards  Mowdale,  whicli  we  passed  in  the 
way  to  Durness. 

We  soon  came  into  the  beautifull  country  of  Loth.  It  is 
not  easy  to  determine  whether  it  had  its  name  from  the  ancient 
Logi,  situated  here,  or  from  some  loughs.  Loughs  that  have 
been  drained,  one  part  being  called  Lothmore  (the  great  lough), 
another  part  Lothbeg  (the  little  lough).  A  rivulet  runs  through 
it,  formed  by  two  streams  which  unite  a  little  higher  up.  It 
is  a  fine  narrow  strip  of  arable  ground,  with  several  beautifull 
hillocks  near  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  the  supposed  banks  of 
the  loughs  are  visible.  Loughmore  was  situated  towards  the 
sea ;  Loughbeg  is  to  the  south-west.  We  took  some  refresh- 
ment at  the  house  of  Mr.  M'Cullogh,2  the  minister  at  Lothkirk. 
He  went  with  us  to  Lothbeg,  where  the  banks  of  the  lake  are 
very  plain,  as  well  as  the  outlet  that  was  made  at  the  rocks 
towards  the  sea. 

We  here  ascended  to  a  Picts"1  house  3  covered  with  stones. 
In  two  or  three  parts  of  which  are  stones  set  up  on  end  to 
denote  the  entrances,  which  might  be  closed  on  some  occasions. 
One  cell  is  open.  We  went  about  nine  feet  in  the  passage. 
Then  one  passage  is  about  eighteen  inches  lower,  and  nine  feet 

1  Helmsdale,  in  older  maps  written  Hemsdale. 

2  Rev.  Robert  M'Culloch.     In  addition  to  his  charge,  he  held  the  chaplaincy 
of  the  2nd  or  Sutherland  Fencibles.     Fasti  Eccles.  Scot. ,  Part  V. 

3  '  There  is  one  of  them  entire  in  the  parish  of  Loth,  which  the  Bishop  of  Ossory 
visited  and  examined.  ...  At  the  desire  of  the  Bishop  of  Ossory  I  measured 
several  of  them,  and  saw  some  quite  demolished.' — Rev.  Alex.  Pope  of  Reay,  in 
Pennant's  1769  Tour  in  Scot.,  p.  337.     'Near  the  miln  of  Lothbeg-  is  the  entire 
Picfs  house,  which  the  Bishop  of  Ossory  entered.' — Ibid.  p.  359. 


SUTHERLAND.  165 

more  brought  us  into  the  oval  appartment,1  seven  feet  and  a 
half  long  and  high,  and  six  feet  broad.  We  saw  the  light 
through  the  top,  where  some  stones  had  probably  been  taken 
away,  and  at  the  end  is  a  little  hole  as  for  a  convenient  recess. 
There  is  a  great  stone  over  the  inner  entrance,  and  another  at 
the  end.  To  the  north  of  the  entrance  of  this  cell  is  a  broad 
stone  set  up  on  end,  and  just  before  it  a  small  circle  of  stones 
set  close  together,  and  in  the  middle  of  it  the  mouth  as  of  an 
entrance  made  with  flat  stones,  and  to  the  north  of  it  a  small 
square  sort  of  a  foundation.  There  are  two  more  in  Glyn 
Loth,  which  are  called  Uagbeg  and  Uagmore.1 

From  this  place  we  returned  to  the  road,  and  struck  out  of 
it  again  near  the  house  of  Clyne  to  the  south-west,  to  a  ridge 
of  very  low  hills,  where  there  are  small  quarries  of  a  loose 
slaty  limestone,2  in  which  there  are  petrified  large  oyster  shells, 
the  small  Cornu  Ammonis,  the  Gryphites,  and  cockles,  also 
the  pecten,  of  most  of  which  I  brought  away  some  specimens.3 
From  this  place  we  descended  to  the  Brora,  where  to  the  west 
of  the  bridge  is  a  beautifull  natural  cave  4  opening  to  the  river. 
We  then  went  a  little  way  to  the  south-west,  to  what  is  called 
the  Dais,5  which  is  a  most  beautifull  bason  of  a  lake  that  has 
been  drained,  with  an  island  in  the  middle  of  it.  The  flat  is 
entirely  covered  with  corn. 

From  that  place  we  came  to  the  sea-clift',  and  descending, 
we  afterwards  ascended  about  fifty  feet  up  a  steep  way  to  a 

1  Probably  a   sepulchral  mound  or  chambered   cairn.     The  names,  too,  are 
suggestive — Uagmore,  the  large  tomb  ;  Uagbeg,  the  small  tomb,  from  the  Gaelic 
ttaigh,  a  grave  or  tomb.     Pope  says  :  '  In  Glen  Loth  are  three  [cairns],  and  are 
called  by  the  country  people  Uags. ' — Pennant's  Tour  Scot.  1 769,  App.  p.  338. 

2  Oolitic  fossils  from  the  strip  of  Jurassic  rocks  on  the  shore  between  Golspie 
and  Helmsdale.      Vide   The  Geology  of  Sutherland ',  by  H.  M.  Cadell,  B.Sc., 
1886. 

3  '  On  the  top  of  a  small  hill,  near  the  house  of  Clyne,  is  a  lime-stone  quarry  ; 
and  in  the  heart  of  the  stone,  all  sorts  of  sea-shells  known  in  these  parts  are 
found.     They  are  fresh  and  entire,  and  the  lime-stone  within  the  shell  resembles 
the  fish.     The  Bishop  of  Ossory  employed  men  to  hew  out  masses  of  the  rock, 
which  he  broke,  and  carried  away  a  large  quantity  of  shells.' — By  Rev.  Alex. 
Pope  of  Reay,  in  Pennant's  Tour  Scot.  1769,  p.  357. 

4  '  Near  the  Bridge  of  Brora  there  is  a  fine  large  cave,  called  Uai  na  Caiman. 
The  Bishop  of  Ossory  admired  it,  and  said  there  were  such  caves  about  Bethlehem 
in  Palestine.' — By  Pope,  in  Pennant's  Totir  Scot.  1769,  p.  357. 

5  The  Doll  of  Brora. 


166          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

grotto  in  the  rock,  where  art  has  been  used  in  cutting  a  bench 
or  two,  and  about  three  feet  higher  is  an  inner  appartment, 
which  is  worked  out  in  a  rough  manner,  with  a  large  short 
kind  of  pillar  between  the  two  entrances,  and  opposite  to  the 
northern  entrance  is  a  part  of  it  in  which  one  may  stand 
upright.  As  brambles  and  weeds  grow  upon  the  mouth  of  the 
outer  cave,  they  have  a  beautifull  effect,  and  the  view  of  the 
fine  strips  of  corn  below  and  of  the  sea  is  most  delightfull. 
This  was  probably  the  retreat  of  some  hermit. 

Coming  along  the  coast  near  a  mile  to  Dunrobin,  Lord 
Sutherland's  castle  and  house,  we  were  surprized  at  seeing  half- 
a-dozen  families  forming  so  many  groupes — viz.,  the  man,  his 
wife,  and  children,  each  under  a  coverlit,  and  reposing  on  the 
shoar,  in  order  to  wait  for  ye  tyde  to  go  a-fishing. 

We  arrived  at  Dunrobin,  twenty  miles  from  Dunbeath. 
This  castle  is  finely  situated  on  the  end  of  a  hill,  which  is 
cut  off  by  a  deep  fossee,  so  that  it  appears  on  the  south  side, 
and  next  to  the  sea,  like  an  old  Celtic  mount.  Between  it  and 
the  sea  is  a  very  good  garden.  The  castle  did  consist  of  two 
square  towers  and  a  gateway.  One  tower  only  remains  now, 
to  which  the  house  is  built.  There  are  good  appartments  in  it, 
tho1  some  have  been  destroyed  by  fire.  The  present  earl  has 
begun  to  plant  the  hanging  ground  from  the  house,  and  pro- 
poses to  carry  it  on,  which  will  make  it  exceeding  fine.  This 
castle  was  built  by  the  first  Earl  of  Sutherland. 

A  small  mile  to  the  north-west  is  a  part  called  the  old 
town  and  ye  remains  of  a  Pictish  castle,1  which  must  have  been 
the  residence  of  the  Thanes  of  Sutherland,  under  which  name 
they  have  been  famous  in  history,  and  more  especially  in  the 
time  of  Macbeth.  The  court  of  this  castle  is  about  thirty  feet 
in  diameter ;  there  was  a  terrace  on  the  outside  twenty-one 
feet  broad,  and  round  that  are  the  foundations  of  a  wall  six 
feet  thick  ;  this  also  is  a  mount  cut  of  from  the  hill ;  on  each 
side  at  the  entrance  was  a  sort  of  Cell ;  that  to  the  right 
small  and  something  of  an  oval,  being  six  feet  long  and  a  yard 
and  a  half  broad ;  the  other  is  of  the  same  breadth  at  ye 
entrance,  and  only  a  yard  broad  at  the  other  end,  and  the 

1  For  a  description  of  some  Sutherland  Brochs,  see  paper  by  Rev.  Dr.  J.  M. 
Joass  in  Archceologia  Scotica,  vol.  v.  p.  95. 


DUNROBIN,  DORNOCH— SUTHERLAND.       167 

passage  from  it  half  a  yard,  as  I  conjecture,  to  the  opening  on 
that  side.  The  outer  wall  is  seven  feet  thick,  and  the  inner 
three  feet.  From  this  we  went  half  a  mile  further,  to  the  ruins 
of  a  much  larger  castle  on  a  mount  which  may  be  thirty  feet 
high,  into  which  mount  cells  seem  to  have  been  made,  and 
there  are  two  stories  of  terraces  in  different  parts,  according  to 
the  shape  of  the  hill ;  that  at  the  top  going  all  round,  the 
lower  terrace  being  only  a  segment  of  a  circle  to  the  east  and 
west.  From  the  latter  there  is  an  ascent  to  this .  fortress, 
which  is  in  ruins,  as  the  other  was,  untill  the  present  earl 
cleared  away  a  great  part  of  the  rubbish.  The  first  I  suppose 
was  the  winter  fortress ;  the  other,  as  the  stronger,  was  for  the 
summer,  being  the  time  of  most  danger,  and  as  it  is  in  a  higher 
and  cooler  situation,  and  nearer  the  hills,  which  are  more 
practicable  in  that  season.  In  the  rivulet  below,  which  is  a 
mountain  torrent,  is  a  pretty  waterfall  (as  I  was  informed)  after 
rain. 

We  came  on  towards  Dornock,  and  observed  a  spot  of 
ground  very  much  resembling  a  Roman  road,  with  entrench- 
ments and  outworks ;  but  it  is  nothing  more  than  the  different 
beaches  which  were  formed  by  the  sea  as  it  lost  ground,  which 
it  has  done  very  visibly  in  these  parts.  We  crossed  the  ferry 
at  the  river  .  .  .  1,  which  rises  towards  Lough  Schin,  and 
they  say  it  is  most  part  of  the  way  a  fruitfull  vale,  and  so  it 
appeared  as  far  as  we  could  see. 

We  travelled  over  a  sandy  head  of  land,  and  came  to  the 
cross  2  set  up  there  in  memory  of  the  defeat  of  the  Danes  (when 
they  landed  here  in  1263)  by  William,  Earl  of  Sutherland,  and 
Gilbert  Murray,  Bishop  of  Cathness.  On  the  north  part  are 
the  Sutherland  arms ;  on  the  south  were  the  bishop's,  which 
are  worn  out.  On  the  top  of  ye  stone  is  a  circle  with  a  cross 
cut  through  it,  which  is  the  arms  of  the  See  of  Cathness.  A 
stone  is  said  to  be  near  the  cross,  which  I  did  not  observe, 
under  which  it  is  reported  the  Danish  general,  slain  in  the 
battle,  was  burried. 

We  came  to  Dornock,  which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
head  of  land  not  far  from  the  river  of  that  name,  called  the 

1  The  '  Little-Ferry  '  across  the  river  Fleet. 

-  The  Cross  is  still  standing,  but  much  dilapidated. 


168  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Kyle  of  Dornock,  near  which  I  went  to  Rosehall  in  my  way  to 
Lord  Reay's.  There  is  very  little  trade  in  this  town,  and  no. 
manufacture  but  spinning  of  linnen  yarn.  The  church  here  is 
the  body  of  the  old  cathedral l  which  belonged  to  the  Bishop  of 
Cathness.2  It  seems  to  be  pretty  near  a  Greek  cross,  tho1  in 
the  eastern  part,  now  uncovered,  there  are  four  arches  on  each 
side  supported  by  round  pillars,  with  a  kind  of  a  Gothic  Doric 
capital.  In  the  body  or  nave  are  only  three  plain  Gothic 
windows  on  each  side ;  but  what  is  most  remarkable  is  a  round 
tower  within  jiyning  to  the  south-west  angle 3  of  the  middle 
part.  It  is  built  for  a  staircase,  and  is  about  ten  feet  in 
diameter,  with  geometrical  stairs.  The  bishop^s  house4  is  a 
solid  high  building,  consisting  of  four  floors  above  the  arched 
offices  on  which  it  was  built.  They  show  also  the  dean's  house, 
and  it  is  probable  several  other  houses  now  standing  near  the 
church  did  belong  to  the  members  of  the  chapter.  These  were 
granted  with  other  parts  of  the  church  estate  to  the  Earl  of 
Sutherland.  This  is  a  royal  burgh,  of  which  they  made  me  a 
burgess.5 

In  two  miles  we  passed  by  Siderhall,6  a  fine  situation,  now 
belonging  to  Lord  Sutherland,  but  was  an  apenage  from  the 

1  The  Cathedral,  as  probably  seen  by  Bishop  Pococke,  is  engraved  in  Hen- 
derson's Agric.  of  Sutherland,  1812.  The  imprint  describes  it  :  '  East  end  of 
Dornoch  Cathedral,  erected  by  St.  Bar  Bishop  of  Caithness  in  the  nth 
Century  and  enlarged  by  Gilbert  Murray,  Bishop  of  Caithness  in  1280 ;  burnt 
by  John  Sinclair,  Master  of  Caithness  in  1570,  and  repaired  by  Sir  Robert 
Gordon,  Tutor  of  Sutherland  Anno.  1630.  The  west  end  was  since  repaired, 
and  is  now  the  Parish  Church  Anno.  1808.'  See  note  4,  p.  12.  Vide  Sir 
Robert  Gordon's  Earldom  of  Sutherland. 

-  See  '  Two  Ancient  Records  of  the  Bishopric  of  Caithness  from  the  Charter- 
room  at  Dunrobin,'  Bannatyne  Club  Miscellany,  contributed  by  the  Duke  of 
Sutherland,  1848. 

3  The  staircase  is  in  the  north-east  angle. 

4  For  view  of  the   Palace  of  Dornoch,   see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel. 
Arch.  Scot.)  1887,  vol.  ii.  p.  337. 

5  Mr.  Donald  Taylor,  Town-Clerk,  has  been  unable  to  find  any  Burgess  Roll ; 
the  Council  minutes,  which  date  from  1 729,  contain  no  reference  to  such  matters. 
The  Magistrates  for  the  time  being  were — Provost,  the  Earl  of  Sutherland  (the 
'good  Colonel,'  father  of  the  Duchess-Countess);  Bailies,  Kenneth  Sutherland, 
'  Ensign ; '  Wm.  Sutherland,  yr.  of  Sciberscross  (wadsetter,  grandfather  of  the 
present  Provost,  Wm.  Sutherland  Fraser,  Esq.);  Kenneth  Sutherland,  jr. ;  David 
Sutherland  of  Cambusavie,  wadsetter. 

6  Now  written  Cyderhall,  formerly  Siddeia,  Sytheraw,  from  Siward's  Hoch 
(Sigurd's  haug). 


DORNOCH,  TAIN.  169 

family.  Here  a  gentleman  carries  on  a  manufacture  of  flax  in 
order  to  prepare  for  spinning ;  gives  it  out,  and  sells  the  yarn. 
A  mile  more  brought  us  to  Skibo,  the  seat  of  Mr.  Mackay, 
half-brother  to  Lord  Reay,  and  member  of  Parliament.  It  was 
a  castle  and  country  seat  of  the  bishops  of  Cathness,  very 
pleasantly  situated  over  a  hanging  ground,  which  was  improved 
into  a  very  good  garden,  and  remains  to  this  day  much  in  the 
same  state,  except  that  there  are  walls  built,  which  produce  all 
sorts  of  fruit  in  great  perfection,  and  I  believe  not  more  than 
six  weeks  later  than  about  London. 

On  the  18th  I  went  in  the  afternoon  over  the  river  into 
Ross-shire,  and  came  soon  to  Innerchasley,1  the  seat  of  Mr. 
Ross,  situated  on  an  eminence  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
river,  with  some  fine  plantations  of  firrs  behind  it.  Under 
Siderhall  I  saw  on  this  side  several  acres  of  the  finest  flax  for 
the  manufactory  I  ever  beheld.  From  Innerchasley  there  is  a 
beautifull  view l  both  up  the  river  and  down  to  the  sea,  as  well 
as  of  the  towns  of  Dornock  and  Taine. — I  am,  £c. 


LETTER  XXXIV. 

CROMARTY,  /u/y  2oth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  19th  we  came  a  mile  through  a  rich 
country  to  Taine 2  pleasantly  situated,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  sea.  They  have  here  a  Manufactury  for  preparing 
Flax  and  for  spinning — are  mostly  Country  people  and  Shop- 
keepers,3 and  it  is  but  a  poor  town.  I  was  met  at  the  entrance 
by  the  Magistrates  and  Minister,4  who  would  have  presented 
me  with  the  freedom  of  the  borough  if  I  could  have  staid. 

1  The  Bishop  appears  to  have  crossed  the  Meikle-ferry  into  Ross-shire,  and 
gone  on  to  Invercarron.     From  Invercassley  (which  is  west  of  Rosehall)  '  the 
towns  of  Dornoch  and  Tain '  cannot  be  seen. 

2  See  History  of  Tain,  Earlier  and  Later,  by  Rev.  Wm.  Taylor,  M.A. , 
1882  ;  article  '  Tain,'  by  Provost  Vass  of  Tain,  in  The  Ordnance  Gazetteer ;  and 
Orig.  Parockiales,  vol.  n.  pt.  ii.  pp.  416,  417,  and  footnote,  p.  426. 

3  The  town,  it  would  appear,  could  boast  of  a  Music  School.    See  note  4,  p.  12. 

4  The  Magistrates  and  Minister  of  Tain  in  1760  were  David  Ross,  Advocate, 
younger  of  Inverchasly,   Provost ;   Hugh  Ross,   Donald   Munro,   David   Ross, 
Bailies ;    John   Reid,   Dean  of  Guild ;    George  Miller,  Treasurer ;    the    Rev. 
John  Sutherland. 


170  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

They  shewed  me  the  Collegiate  Church  ; l  it  is  built  of  hewn 
freestone  and  was  founded  in  1481  by  Thomas  Bishop  of  Ross 
at  the  Instance  of  James  the  3d  in  honour  of  St.  Duthac  for  a 
provost  eleven  prebendaries  &  three  Choiristers :  The  north 
side  consists  of  small  narrow  windows  which  are  not  high,  but 
on  the  north  side,  and  at  the  East  End  are  Gothic  windows  of 
the  newest  fashion  with  square  mullions.  About  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  to  the  South  East  of  the  town  on  a  little  Eminence  is 
the  old  Chapel  of  St.  Duthac,2  which  was  had  in  such  great 
esteem  that  James  the  4th  3  rid  in  two  daies  from  Stirling  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  make  amends  for  what  he  thought  wanted  an 
attonement ;  (viz.)  the  being  taken  away  at  sixteen  years  old 
by  the  Nobility  and  placed  at  the  head  of  the  Army  against 
his  father,  who,  'tis  supposed  fell  in  battle,  and  was  never 
found. 

We  passed  over  a  heigh th,  and  came  into  that  fine  plain 
country  which  extends  all  the  way  to  Dingwall,  and  so  on 
to  Beaulieu  ;  and  in  about  three  miles  we  came  to  the 
Abbey  of  Fern  founded  by  Ferquhard  first  Earl  of  Ross  in  the 
time  of  Alexander  the  2d  they  were  pra?monstratenses  of  the 
rule  of  St.  Austin.  It  was  annexed  by  King  James  the  6th  to 
the  Bishoprick  of  Ross.  Mr.  Patrick  Hamilton  Abbot  here 
when  the  reformation  first  began,  was  burnt  at  St.  Andrews  in 
1527  for  heresy,  being  among  the  first  that  suffered.  Nothing 
remains  but  the  Church  and  Chapels  adjoyning  to  it,  wcb  are  of 
fine  hewn  freestone  inside  and  outside  with  a  handsome  cornice. 
There  are  four  long  narrow  windows  at  the  East  End,  and  011 
each  side  of  the  Quire,  and  three  on  each  side  of  the  body ; 
those  to  the  South  being  very  small ;  There  was  a  considerable 

1  Occupied  as  the  Parish  Church  until  1815,  when  it  was  relinquished  for  the 
large  new  one  which  had  been  built.     Thereafter  the  Collegiate  Church,  now 
known  as  '  Old  St.  Duthus'  Church,'  was  allowed  to  fall  into  great  disrepair, 
almost  ruin  ;  but  it  has  in  recent  years  been  quite  restored,  its  windows  filled  in 
with  stained  glass  designs,  commemorative  of  eminent  citizens,  and  the  church 
is  appropriated  and  preserved  for  monumental  and  memorial  purposes. 

2  In  1306  or  1307  the  Queen  and  daughter  of  King  Robert   Bruce   sought 
refuge  'in  the  girth  of  Tane.' — Origines  Paroch.  vol.  II.  pt.  ii.  p.  428. 

3  From   1496  to   1513  King  James  iv.   made  seven   pilgrimages  to   'Sanct 
Duthois  Chapel  quhair  he  was  borne'  (Origines  Paroch.  vol.  II.  pt.  ii.  p.  433). 
The  New  Stat.  Ace.,  '  Ross,'  p.  288,  says  James  v.  made  a  barefoot  pilgrimage  to 
St.  Duthus,  but  the  Origines  Paroch.,  vol.  II.  pt.  ii.  p.  433,  question  it. 


TAIN,  FEARN.  171 

addition  to  the  Church  at  the  West  End,  but  not  as  high,  as 
there  is  a  Gothic  window  above  that  building,  and  a  like  Gothic 
window  is  practiced  over  three  windows  at  the  East  End :  On 
the  South  Side  is  a  large  Chapel  in  which  is  a  handsome  monu- 
ment, a  kind  of  broad  Nich  in  the  wall  richly  adorned  with 
Sculpture,  with  this  inscription ; l  Hie  Jacet  Finleus  McFayd 
quod  Abbas  de  Feme  qui  obiit  an.  M.CCCCXXXXV.  There  is  a 
couchant  statue  of  the  Abbot  with  his  feet  resting  against  a 
Lyon,  on  each  side  near  to  the  East  End  is  a  small  Chapel ; 
the  larger  is  to  the  North  in  which  arches  are  turned  about 
five  feet  apart  and  end  in  a  point,  &  on  these  flag  stones  are 
laid  about  six  feet  long  and  two  feet  broad  one  over  another 
like  slates,  the  Arches  being  about  two  feet  wide :  and  the 
large  Chapel  was  covered  as  it  is  to  be  supposed  in  the  same 
manner ;  part  of  the  Arches  remaining  on  each  side,  which 
seems  to  be  a  method  to  save  the  expense  of  a  wooden  roof. 

A  most  extraordinary  accident  happened  here  in  the  year 
1742.  There  was  a  sudden  hurricane  in  time  of  Divine  Service, 
and  about  600  Souls  in  the  Church,  the  Couples  all  of  a  sudden 
gave  way,  and  the  roof  of  Deal  slipped  off  on  the  North  Side, 
and  brought  oft'  the  outer  Casing  of  the  Wall  with  it  for  some 
feet  from  the  top,  and  the  whole  roof  to  the  South  fell  in,  the 
Canopies  of  the  Seats  saved  them  much,  but  36  were  killed  and 
twelve  2  died  afterwards  of  their  fractures  and  bruises.  A  great 
number  were  stunned  and  had  not  the  least  recollection  of  what 
happened ;  The  minister  whom  I  saw,  was  found  with  his  head 
pinned  2  to  the  desk  by  the  speaking  board  over  him,  and  did 
not  recover  his  senses  untill  the  next  day.  They  heard  the 
Slates  tumbling  off',  and  looking  up,  the  roof  instantly  fell 
without  any  notice. 

They  built  a  Kirk  close  to  this,  which  together  with  the 
glebe  house  and  offices  took  up  most  of  the  materials  of  the 
old  Abbey.  The  Abbots  Lodgings  joyned  on  to  the  end  of  the 

'  Hie  jacet  Finlaius  M'Fead  abbas  de  Fern  qui  obiit  anno  MCCCCLXXXV.'— 
Origines  Paroch,  vol.  II.  pt.  ii.  p.  441. 

2  'Eight  more  died  soon  after.'— Old  Stat.  Ac.,  '  Fearn,'  vol.  iv.  p.  296. 
The  details  of  the  accident  to  the  minister,  the  Rev.  Donald  Ross,  do  not  appear 
to  have  been  previously  recorded.  '  He  was  seriously  injured  by  the  falling  of 
the  roof  of  the  Abbey  Church,  .  .  .  and  was  seized  with  palsy  in  1767,  which 
deprived  him  of  his  memory  and  faculties.' — Fasti  Eccles.  Scot.  pt.  v.  p.  312. 


172  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Southern  Chapel,  in  which  there  is  an  opening  where  he  might 
occasionally  attend  Divine  service. 

From  this  place  we  kept  on  Eastward  to  the  end  of  the 
beautifull  head  of  Land  to  the  house  of  Hugh  McLeod  Esqr.  at 
Geanies,  which  is  a  most  charming  situation  near  the  end  of 
the  Country  called  East  Ross  ;  the  Head  of  which  to  the  Sea  is 
called  Tarbat  Ness  &  seems  to  be  Penoxullum  Promuntorium 
of  the  New  Map. 

From  this  place  I  went  to  Catboll  the  seat  of  Roderick 
McLeod  Esqr.  ;l  I  waited  on  this  gentleman  who  is  of  the  Epis- 

1  This  Cadboll,  Roderick  Macleod,  being  implicated  -in  the  '45,  was  abroad 
for  several  years ;  and  being  a  man  of  superior  parts,  as  well  as,  if  report  be  true, 
of  petulant  temper,  employed  his  time  in  collecting  a  valuable  library  of  old  books, 
a  collection  of  coins,  etc.,  and  on  his  return  to  Scotland  had  them  stored  at 
Cadboll  in  rooms  he  built  with  stone-arched  roofs  to  keep  them  safe  frotn  fire. 
He  had  planned  to  arrange  the  coins  in  tin  boxes,  but  died  in  1771  before  any- 
thing was  completed.  The  coins,  together  with  the  library,  were  removed  to 
Invergordon  Castle  (the  old  one)  about  the  year  1787.  In  1805  or  1806  the  castle 
was  burnt  with  almost  the  whole  of  its  contents,  and  thus  was  lost  that  large, 
valuable,  and  unique  collection.  A  few  coins  have  been  found  among  the  ruins. 

The  Duke  of  Athole  lately  gave  R.  B.  JE.  Macleod,  Esq.  of  Invergordon 
Castle  (the  present  Cadboll,  and  great-grandson  of  Roderick  Macleod),  a  letter, 
dated  I771)  relating  to  the  coins,  etc.,  which  had  been  found  in  his  Grace's 
chests  at  Blair  Castle,  written  by  the  then  Duke's  Factor.  '  Edinburgh,  2Oth 
Novr.  1771. — My  Lord  [His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Athole],  In  obedience  to  the 
commands  your  Grace  was  so  good  as  honour  me  with,  I  some  time  ago  enquired 
at  Mr.  Swinton  about  Cadbol's  Medals.  He  told  me  they  were  not  to  be  sold, 
but  could  give  no  final  answer  whether  there  was  a  catalogue  of  them,  or  if  they 
could  be  sent  your  Grace  to  peruse  them,  till  Mr.  Macleod,  another  of  the 
Guardians,  came  to  town.  He  arrived  yesterday,  and  I  spoke  with  both  to-day. 
They  agree  the  medals  cannot  be  sold,  and  there  is  such  anxiety  in  Cadbol's 
settlements  concerning  them  that  they  cannot  be  moved  from  his  House  in  Ross- 
shire.  They  told  me  there  was  no  Catalogue,  but  that  any  person  commissioned 
by  your  Grace  should  be  welcome  to  see  them,  and  Mr.  Macleod  would  attend 
himself  on  that  occasion  when  he  went  to  the  country.  The  Collection  I  under- 
stand, is  numerous,  Cadboll  having  prepared  three  hundred  Tin  Boxes  to  con- 
tain them,  but  he  had  only  arranged  about  twenty  Boxes  when  he  died.  .  .  . 
My  Lord,  your  Grace's  most  obedt.,  most  obliged,  and  most  humble  servant, 
ALEXR.  MURRAY.' 

Cadboll,  being  on  bad  terms  with  his  cousin,  the  Macleod  of  Geanies,  he 
mustered  his  tenants  (very  small  holdings  in  those  days),  and  piled  up  the  earth, 
until  it  formed  a  great  mound,  for  the  purpose  of  looking  down  on  his  cousin's 
lands.  Geanies  thereupon  planted  a  belt  of  trees  to  block  him  out,  which  it 
effectually  does  to  this  day.  The  mound  is  quadrangular,  built  in  steps,  and 
may  be  some  60  feet  high. 

'  He  [MacLeod   of  Cadboll]  is  a  great  Antiquarian   and    Medalist,  having, 


EASTER  ROSS.  173 

copal  Church,  &  a  person  of  great  learning,  especially  in  the 
Scotch  History  and  Coins,  of  which  he  showed  me  a  curious 
collection,  the  gold  he  bought  of  Keith  the  nonjuring  Bishop. 
And  he  presented  me  with  some  very  valuable  Coins  in  gold  and 
silver :  His  land  is  on  the  highest  ground  of  this  Promontory 
called  Tarbotness,  and  on  that  spot,  he  has  raised  a  pyramid  of 
Sods  exactly  on  the  model  of  the  Egyptian  pyramids ;  it  is  on 
a  basis  which  at  a  medium  may  be  about  seven  feet  high  and 
forms  a  terrace,  I  believe,  about  two  feet  wide  all  round  it.  It 
consists  of  seventeen  steps  each  of  them  eighteen  inches  high, 
and  about  two  feet  wide  ;  it  is  at  top  about  two  yards  by  three, 
&  is  one  way  twenty  one  yards  at  the  steps.  It  has  been  raised 
by  degrees,  that  is  two  or  three  steps  every  year  by  his 
Tennants. 

We  went  on  and  came  to  the  side  of  a  low  hill  near  the  sea 
about  two  miles  to  a  Curious  monument1  of  Christian  Antiquity, 
said  to  be  erected  in  memory  of  a  Victory  over  the  Danes,  and 

perhaps,  the  best  Collection  of  Scots  Coins,  Copper,  Silver,  and  Gold,  from  the 
Jirst  Penny  of  each  down  to  the  present  Time,  of  any  Gentleman  whatsoever ; 
and,  to  complete  the  character,  he  has  an  excellent  Library  of  Books.  The 
Bishop  of  Ossory,  spying  his  Mount  at  some  distance,  asked  what  it  was,  and 
would  by  all  means  take  a  View  of  it.  When  upon  the  Top  of  it,  he  admired 
it  greatly,  and  said  it  behoved  the  Gentleman  who  had  contrived  and  effected 
it  to  be  a  curious  Person  indeed  ;  and  then  he  made  particular  Inquiry  about 
him ;  for  so  poorly  and  indifferently  had  his  Lordship  been  directed,  that  he 
had  never  heard  that  such  a  Man  existed,  though  he  had  lodged  a  night  within 
a  mile  of  Cadboll's  House,  which  being  pointed  to  him  at  length  from  the 
Mount,  he  went  directly  to  it,  spent  about  two  Hours  with  Cadboll,  and  was 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  the  Scots  Coins  to  be  much  older  than  what  he  had 
supposed,  Cadboll  giving  him  presents  of  some,  of  which  he  had  Duplicates.  In 
a  word,  he  plainly  declared  he  would  have  been  very  sorry  if  he  had  miss'd 
seeing  such  a  Gentleman,  as  being  one  of  the  greatest  Rarities  he  had  ever  met 
with  in  all  his  Travels  ;  and  so  much  was  he  taken  with  what  he  saw  or  heard 
at  Cadboll,  that,  in  token  of  his  singular  pleasure,  after  his  Return  to  London, 
he  sent  Cadboll  a  present  of  his  4  Vols.  of  Travels  in  Folio,  elegantly  bound, 
with  a  copy  of  his  Sermon  at  Magdalen's  Hospital,  and  of  a  Pamphlet  giving  an 
Account  of  its  Foundation,  etc.  A  polite  Letter  accompanied  the  handsome 
Present,  which  I  saw  read,  and  in  which  his  Lordship  said,  among  other  Things, 
that  he  had  attended  a  Sale  of  medals  at  London  upon  Cadboll's  [account],  but 
that  he  saw  nothing  there  worthy  of  one  of  his  Taste. ' — Bishop  Forbes1  s  Journals, 
Ed.  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  172. 

1  Monument  of  Sandwick  (Shandwick  ;  Nigg),  engraved  in  Cordiner's  Antiq. 
North  of  Scot.,  1776,  PI.  xii.,  p.  65.  See  also  Stuart's  Sculp.  Stones,  p.  10, 
Pll.  xxvi.  and  xxvii. 


174  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

they  say  that  the  Eldest  son  of  the  Danish  King  is  buried 
there  who  died  in  Battle :  it  is  a  yard  broad  about  ten  feet 
high  and  eight  inches  thick.  The  East  side  is  all  adorned 
with  lines  in  knots  and  with  beasts  in  bas  relief,  and  Different 
Compartments.  From  the  top  and  about  half  way  down  is  a 
Cross  consisting  of  two  rows  of  round  nobs  like  those  which  are 
in  embossed  plate  ornaments,  &  look  very  rich,  on  each  side 
above  the  transept  of  the  Cross,  is  an  Ornament  so  defaced  that 
I  could  make  nothing  of  it :  below  it  on  both  sides  is  St. 
Andrew  on  the  Cross ;  below  this  on  one  side  is  a  Lyon,  with 
something  in  his  mouth  which  I  could  not  distinguish ;  on  the 
north  side  an  Elephant  which  is  the  order  of  Denmark ; 
beneath  which  is  a  Compartment  of  lines  &c.  as  above,  the 
whole  being  adorned  to  its  utmost  basis.  This  is  the  richest 
and  finest  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw. 

A  little  way  beyond  this  hill  we  came  to  Ancherville, 
formerly  the  seat  of  one  of  the  name  of  Ross,  who  from  a  very 
low  beginning  went  into  the  service  of  Augustus  of  Poland, 
and  being  the  only  person  who  could  bear  more  Liquor  than 
his  Majesty,  got  to  be  a  Commissary,  came  away  with  plunder 
of  Churches  £c.  in  the  war  about  the  Crown  of  Poland,  pur- 
chased this  Estate  of  ~LQQ£  a  year,  built  and  lived  too  greatly 
for  it,  was  for  determining  all  things  by  the  Sabre ;  and  died 
much  reduced  in  his  Finances  between  twenty  and  thirty 
years  agoe. 

Half  a  mile  more  brought  us  to  a  bed  of  fossil  shells l  not 
petrified,  but  very  tender,  it  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  vale  which  is  a  Morass,  and  high  spring  tydes  do  some 
times  come  into  it,  where  in  all  probability  it  formerly  did 
pass  and  make  this  place  an  island :  The  ground  I  conjecture 
to  be  about  50  feet  above  this  Vale,  the  bed  is  about  a  yard 
from  the  Surface  and  near  a  foot  thick,  it  consists  chiefly  of 
Oyster  Shells ;  there  are  many  Cockles,  and  limpets,  winkles 
and  muscles,  the  last  are  the  most  tender :  There  are  also 
trochi,  the  Buccinnu  and  pectens.  This  bed  is  most  admirable 
Manure  for  Corn. 

Half  a  mile  more  brought  us  to  the  house  of  Duncan  Ross, 

1  The  shell-bed  near  Ankerville  may,  at  the  earliest,  be  a  formation  of  the 
25-feet  beach.  -See  Hugh  Miller's  Sketch-Book  of  Popular  Geology,  p.  280. 


CROMARTY.  175 

Esqr.,  at  Kindeace,  who  had  met  me  at  Geanies.  After  we  had 
taken  our  repast  Mr.  McLeod  of  Geanies,  and  Mr.  Mackay 
took  leave,  and  Mr.  Ross  went  with  me  to  the  ferry  of 
Cromartie  :  from  this  part  we  saw  Torbut  which  was  the  seat l 
of  Lord  Cromartie,  a  most  charming  situation  and  delightfull 
place,  finely  wooded  near  the  Sea. 

To  the  North  East  is  Balyguineon  2  the  seat  of  the  Ross's, 
of  which  family  was  the  late  General  Ross,  who  is  buried  in 
the  Abbey  Church  of  Fern  with  a  most  elegant  inscription  on 
his  monument,  in  which  his  father  is  called,  Rossceancegentis 
Regains. 

We  crossed  over  to  Cromartie  which  is  situated  on  an 
exceeding  fine  harbour  in  so  much  that  it  was  called  Portus 
Salutis,  and  seems  to  be  the  Loxa  of  the  New  Map.  The 
entrance  a  mile  wide  is  made  by  two  heads,  called  the  Suters, 
and  may  be  about  a  mile  in  length  :  it  widens  to  the  North 
two  miles.  The  good  harbour  extends  six  miles  to  Invergordon, 
in  which  space  120  of  the  largest  ships  might  Anchor,  and  as 
the  Deep  Harbour  is  two  miles  in  breadth,  it  is  thought  that 
three  lines  of  shipping  might  ride  in  that  space :  on  a  flat  to 
the  West  of  the  head,  the  town  of  Cromartie  is  situated,  which 
may  have  200  houses  in  it.  Their  trade  is  only  accidental 
from  such  ships  as  touch  there,  except  that  3  or  4  ships  come 
in  a  year  from  London  with  groceries,  hops,  &c.  They  prepare 
some  flax  and  spin  much  more,  which  they  sell  to  the  Company 
at  Edinburgh :  They  had  a  herring  fishery,  but  since  it  has 
failed  they  apply  very  little  to  fishing. 

To  the  East,  the  head,  covered  with  Corn  rises  like  Mount 
Olivet  over  Jerusalem ; 3  and  over  the  North  East  angle  of  this 
flat  at  the  End  of  the  town,  and  to  the  South  of  it,  the 
eminence  is  naturally  fortifyed  to  the  East,  West  and  South, 
by  a  deep  fossee ;  on  this  most  beautifull  spot  an  old  ruined 
Church  is  situated  to  the  East,  with  the  remains  of  a  hand- 
some building  to  the  west  of  it,  the  base  of  which,  of  hewn 
stone,  remains  over  a  burial  vault  belonging  to  the  family  who 
inhabited  the  house, — the  house  to  the  west,  in  which  the  situation 
does  not  receive  all  the  advantages  it  might  from  the  building, 

1  Cromarty  House,  Tarbet.  2  Balnagown  Castle. 

8  VideDr.  Pococke's  Travels  in  the  East,  Palestine,  etc.,  Loncl.  1743-5,  2  v°ls. 


176  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

having  fallen  into  the  hands  of  one  Mr.  Urquhart  who  had 
commanded  a  Spanish  Gaily,  and  died  a  Convert  to  Popery ; 
which  slip  his  Son,  now  eighteen  years  old,  has  in  some  degree 
recovered,  by  conforming  to  the  Church  of  England.  This 
situation  appears  in  every  view  most  delightfull.  There  are 
very  imperfect  remains  of  a  Church l  on  the  Shoar  to  the  East 
which  is  called  the  Old  Kirk :  -Where  the  present  Church  is, 
they  found  lately  in  pulling  down  a  wall  an  old  font  and  some 
stones  of  the  old  Church. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXV. 

NAIRN,  July  ztfh,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  set  out  from  Cromarty  and  came  about 
six  miles  by  the  Shoar  near  to  Inver  Gordon  ferry,  passing 
soon  after  I  left  Cromarty  by  a  quarry  of  a  sort  of  Coarse  red 
freestone,  with  which  fort  George  is  supplied  by  Sea.  We 
went  by  New  Hall  the  seat  of  Mr.  Gordon  (brother  to  Sr.  John 
Gordon)  who  is  an  Advocate  in  the  Courts ;  it  is  a  large  house 
built  by  one  Mr.  Urquhart  out  of  an  imaginary  South  Sea 
Estate.  This  gentleman  is  improving  his  fine  situation  in  a 
very  good  taste  by  planting :  we  came  on  having  a  very 
pleasant  hill  all  along  near  the  Frith  of  Cromarty  and  by  the 
Bishop's  Castle 2  opposite  to  Kulcarran,3  where  I  was  at  Mr. 
Monroes  on  the  other  side :  Having  been  mostly  during  this 
ride  in  the  small  County  of  Cromarty,  we  came  into  Inver- 
nesshire  forded  the  river  and  passed  through  Dingwall  to 
Foules  Sir  Henry  Monroe's,  pleasantly  situated  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  finely  planted  by  his 
father  Sir  Robert,  and  continued  by  this  gentleman.  Sir 
Robert 4  and  his  brother  were  killed  at  the  battle  of  Falkirk  ; 

1  St.  Regulus's  Chapel.  2  Castle  Craig  or  Tigh-na-Craig. 

3  Culcairn  of  Novar,  see  p.  no. 

4  See  paper  on  'Sir  Robert  Munro,  6th  Baronet  and  24th  Baron  of  Fowlis, 
who  fell  at  Falkirk,'  by  Alex.  Ross,  Alness  (Trans,  of  Gaelic  Soc.  of  Inverness, 
vol.  xi.  pp.  199-209). 


CROMARTY,  FOULIS.  177 

and  the  present  possessor  was  taken  prisoner  at  the  battle  of 
Preston  Pans.  Here  I  saw  the  picture 1  of  a  servant  maid  who 
died  in  1758  and  came  as  a  servant  with  Sir  Henry's  Great 
Grandmother  a  Mackenzy  to  this  house  in  1658,  when  it  is 
supposed  she  might  be  about  sixteen  years  old.'2 

They  have  here  a  fine  freestone  something  of  a  green  colour 
like  that  at  Inverary,  and  they  abound  in  mineral  waters ;  A 
little  beyond  it  to  the  North  East  is  a  Kern  with  two  stones 
set  up  before  it ;  in  a  cell  there  made  with  five  stones,  they 
found  some  bones : 

I  went  beyond  it  to  the  Burne  called  Aldgrant3  (The  Ugly 
Burne).  It  rises  two  or  three  miles  up  in  the  mountains,  and 
running  about  a  mile  above  the  road  between  the  rocks  covered 
with  Trees,  it  has  worn  the  rock  down  at  a  bridge  which  we 
went  over,  as  conjectured  150  feet  deep ;  'tis  said  below  that, 
it  is  much  deeper  some  say  even  to  fifty  fathom,  which  they 

1  This  portrait  is  not  now  at  Foulis  Castle,   having  been  sold  with  other 
pictures  in  1826  by  the  late  Sir  Hugh  Munro. 

2  '  At  Foulis  Castle,  the  seat  of  Sir  Harry  Munro,  Katharine  Mackenzie,  aged 
118.     She  had  been  a  servant  in  the  family  for  103  years,  and  was  able  to  walk  a 
mile  a  few  days  before  her  death,  Dec.   24th,  1758." — Edinburgh  Magazine, 
Oct.  1759. 

3  Alltgrannda.  Bishop  Forbes,  in  company  with  Mr.  Mackenzie  of  Inchcoulter, 
the  proprietor,  visited,  in  1762,  the  Water  of  Aultgrad  (the  ugly  burn),  and  most 
graphically  describes  the  river  and  scenery  in  his  First  Journal,  pp.   163-165. 
He  also  records  that  '  the  Bishop  of  Ossory  viewed  this  august  and  grand  wonder 
of  Nature ;  but,  I  am  told,  he  took  his  Observations  on  the  south  side,  where  he 
could  not  discover  the  tenth  Part  of  its  Grandeur,  the  Bank  being  so  steep  and 
slippery  in  many  places  that  there  is  no  attempting  to  get  near  the  Verge  of  the 
precipice.     Inchcoulter,  happening  accidentally  to  meet  his  Lordship  on  the 
Highway  upon  his  coming  from  Ault-Grad,  made  up  to  him  in  a  very  polite 
manner  ;  and  the  Bishop,  after  Compliments,  told  him  he  had  been  viewing  that 
Wonder,  and  that  he  admired  it  much,  as  one  of  the  greatest  he  had  ever  seen  in 
all  his  Travels.     To  which  Inchcoulter  said  in  return,  "  Well,  my  Lord,  that  same 
wonder  is  the  property  of  a  Mackenzie,  every  inch  of  it,  and  as  I  have  the  good 
fortune  to  be  the  Owner  of  it,  your  Lordship  will  do  me  much  Honour  by  a  visit  at 
my  House  (pointing  to  it)  qch  is  hard  by  here."     But  his  Lordship  begged  to  be 
excused,  as  he  was  in  haste  to  be  gone  at  present.     So  they  parted  with  mutual 
Bows.    Inchcoulter's  kind  Invitation,  after  so  seasonable  a  Memento,  was  a  home- 
thrust  to  his  Lordship,  as,  remarkable  as  it  is,  he  did  not  visit  one  Mackenzie  in 
all  Ross-shire,  tho'  it  be  the  well-known  Country  of  the  Clan  Mackenzie.     A 
Gentleman  [Dr.  Sinclair,  at  Thurso],  a  Sinclair  by  name,  and,  I  have  reason  to 
think,  a  Whig,  too,  told  me  that  Ossory  was  surely  a  narrow-thinking  Man,  and 
gave  the  above  Omission  or  Neglect  as  a  strong  proof  of  it '  (Bishop  Forbes's 
Journals,  by  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  p.  166,  1886). 

M 


178  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

affirm  some  person  descended  by  the  help  of  a  rope  and  found 
the  bottom  with  a  pole  12  feet  deeper. 

They  here  make  bread  of  pease,  mixed  with  barley  or  Oats 
and  sometimes  with  pease  alone,  and  they  sow  Oats  with  Rye 
and  make  bread  of  them  together.  About  Dingwall  they  have 
great  plenty  of  beans  and  make  bread  of  it  alone. 

On  the  21st  I  left  Sir  Harry  Monroe's  who  did  me  the 
honour  to  accompany  me  from  his  house  to  Dingwall,  and 
crossing  the  ford  higher  up  than  when  we  first  came  this  way, 
Dr.  Frasier1  met  me  and  we  soon  saw  Brahan  Castle  the  Earl  of 
Seaforth's,  a  fine  situation  on  the  North  side  of  the  river,  and 
abounding  in  wood,  and  to  the  West  Fairburne  house,  on  a 
high  hill  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  belongs  to  a 
Mackenzy. 

In  about  two  miles  we  came  to  Beaulieu  Priory 2  very 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  river  Beaulieu ;  The  shell  of  the 
Church  remains  almost  entire,  which  was  a  very  plain  oblong 
square  building ;  In  a  tomb  of  one  of  the  Earl  of  Seaforth's 
family  is  the  body  of  a  Lady — part  of  the  skin  remains  entire 
like  leather,  and  the  hand  is  also  entire  but  dried  like  a 
Mummy.3  There  are  remains  of  other  buildings,  and  of  the 
Kitchen  with  a  Chimney  as  wide  as  the  room.  Reid,  Bishop  of 
Orkney  repaired  several  parts  of  the  Priory,  and  his  arms  are 
over  some  of  the  doors.  It  was  a  priory  of  the  order  of  Vallis 
Caulium  reformed  from  the  Cistercians  &  founded  by  James 
Bisset  of  this  shire  in  1230.4  We  crossed  the  river  Beaulieu 
and  went  a  mile  Eastward  to  Kirkhill  Church,  from  which  we 
had  a  prospect  of  Beaufort,5  the  late  Lord  Lovetfs  Seat,  and  of 

1  Of  Achnagairn. 

2  Beauly  Priory  :  see  Cordiner's  Antiq.  North  of  Scot.,  PL  xi.  p.  61  ;   gratis. 
Inverness  Scien.  Soc.  and  Field  Club,  1880,  vol.  i.  p.  358. 

3  '  Said  to  be  the  Body  of  Anne  Ogilvie,  Lady  Kinchuldrum  ;  the  Right  Arm 
of  which,  up  to  the  Elbow,  is  still  entire,  with  the  Skin  only  up  to  the  Shoulder. 
Half  of  the  Fore  Finger  is  broke  off,  but  the  Nails  of  the  Thumb  and  the  other 
Fingers  are  still  entire,  and  all  the  Joints  quite  distinct.     The  Skin  is  brownish, 
and  the  Body  is  reckoned  to  have  lain  there  for  about  70  years  '  (Bishop  Forbes's 
First  Journal,  1762,  p.  222;  ed.  by  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven). 

4  See  Anderson's  Hist,  of  Family  of  Fraser,  p.  29. 

5  Beaufort  Castle,  built  close  to  the  site  of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Beaufort, 
or  Dunie,  of  Alexander  i.'s  time.     The  castle  has  lately  been  built  anew  in  a 
beautiful  style. 


BEAULY.  179 

the  beautifull  country  about  it,  to  whose  ancestor  Hugh  Lord 
Fraser  of  Lovat  the  last  Prior  alienated  it,  and  the  late  Lord, 
marrying  the  heiress,  as  it  is  said,  forceably,  fled  abroad,  but 
making  his  peace  with  the  Government  after  her  death,  he 
came  home  and  got  possession  of  the  Estate :  to  which  event 
this  remarkable  Epitaph  alludes,  which  he  inscribed  on  his 
Father's  Monument  in  this  Church  : l 

To  THE  MEMORY 


Lord  Thomas  Fraser  of  Lovat,  who 
chose  rather  to  undergoe  the  greatest 
Hardships  of  Fortune  than  to  part  with 
The  ancient  Honours  of  his  house, 
And  bore  these  hardships  with  an  undaunted 
Fortitude  of  Mind. 

This  monument  erected 

by  Simon  Lord  Fraser  2  of  Lovat  his  son, 

who  likewise  having  undergone  many  and 

great  vicissitudes  of  good  and  bad  fortune 

Through  the  Malice  of  his  Enemies,  He,  in  the  end, 

At  the  Head  of  his  Clan,  forced  his  way  to  his 

Paternal  inheritance  with  his  sword  in  his  hand, 

And  relieved  his  kindred  and  followers 

From  oppression  and  slavery ; 

And  both  at  Home  and  in  foreign  Countries, 

By  his  eminent  actions  in  the  Warr  and  State, 

He  has  acquired  great  honour  and  reputation. 

Hie  tegit  ossa  lapis  Simonis  Fortis  in  Armis, 
Restituit  pressum  nam  Genus  ille  suum, 
Hoc  marmor  posuit  Cari  Genitoris  Honori 
Ingenus  afflictum  par  erat  ejus  Amor. 

1  The  monument,  being  inside  the  old  church,  is  still  in  good  preservation. 
Anderson's  Hist,  of  Family  of  Fraser,  p.  156. 

2  '  Sir  Robert  Munro,  who  fell  at  Falkirk,  being  on  a  visit  to  Lord  Lovat,  they 
went  together  to  view  this  monument.     Sir  Robert,  upon  reading  the  inscription, 
in  a  free  manner  said, — Simon,  how  came  you  to  put  up  such  boasting  romantic 
stuff?     To  which  the  wary  old  Lord  replied, — The  monument  and  inscription  are 
chiefly  for  the  Frasers,  who  must  believe  whatever  I,  their  chief,  require  of  them  ; 
and  their  posterity  will  think  it  as  true  as  the  Gospel. ' —  The  Highland  Note  Book, 
by  R.  Carruthers,  1843,  P-  82,  note. 


180  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

From  this  place  I  went  to  Dr.  Eraser's,1  situated  very  near 
the  Church,  where  Sir  Harry  Monroe  and  Mr.  Ross  of  Keandace2 
left  me,  and  the  Dr.  went  on  with  me  to  Inverness ;  opposite 
to  this  place,  I  saw  a  very  pretty  box3  built  on  the  side  of  a  hill 
by  Mr.  Fraser,  the  Author  of  the  life  of  Konlikan,  who  pur- 
chased that  Estate  and  built  the  house  after  he  had  made  a 
small  fortune  in  the  East  Indies.  His  Mss.4  in  the  Indian 
Language  of  the  Moguls  Country  were  sold  by  his  Widow  for 
£500  to  the  Trustees  for  RatclifTs  Library  in  the  university 
of  Oxford.  The  agreeable  variety  of  wood  and  beautifull  fields 
up  the  side  of  the  hills  have  a  most  charming  effect  in  the 
prospect.  I  returned  to  Inverness  by  .  .  .5  ,  a  fine  well- 
timbered  Estate  of  the  late  Lord  President  Forbess's,  which  is 
in  a  most  delightfull  situation  on  Lough  Beaulieu. 

In  the  New  Itinerary  from  Ptorotone  or  Inverness  through 
this  middle  of  the  island  to  Varis  8  miles  in  the  first  place  which 
might  be  at  Farr  in  the  map  or  at  Cornburgh6  10  m.  The 
next  is  Tuessis  or  the  Spey  18,  probably  at  Ruthven  of  Bade- 
noch,  the  next  is  Tamea  29,  which  falls  in  with  Dalnacardoch 
as  to  distance  by  24  Computed  miles,  which  may  be  but  29 
measured  through  the  mountains  where  the  miles  are  commonly 
short.  The  name  of  the  next  place  is  lost,  the  distance  21 
which  falls  in  with  Mulinearn  15  m.  computed.  In  medio  is 
nine  about  Dunkeld,  next  is  Orrea  which  may  be  Scone  on  the 
East  side  of  the  Tavus  or  Tay  in  the  New  Map.  The  distance 
of  Victoria  is  18,  which  may  be  Kinross  10  from  Perth  and  12 
from  Scone,  Abernethy  is  much  too  near  where  Horsley  places 
it.  Then  follows  Advallum  32  and  Queens  ferry  is  18,  and 
consequently  it  is  further  to  the  Wall  which  did  not  come  so 
far  east,  and  18  computed  may  be  24  measured.  The  next 
Luguballia  Carlisle,  70. 

I  came  on  the  23d  to  Fort  George,  and  crossed  over  in  a 
boat  to  the  Chanonry  of  Fortrose  8  miles  from  Cromarty 

1  Dr.  Duncan  Fraser  of  Achnagairn.     See  Shaw's  Hist,  of  Province  of  Moray, 
vol.  ii.  p.  374,  ed.  1882. 

2  See  p.  175.  8  Reelick. 

4  The  Fraser  MSS.,  Sanskrit,  Arabic,  and  Persian,  are  in  the  Bodleian  Library. 
It  is  doubtful  if  any  part  of  them  have  been  published.     See  Prof.  Aufrecht's 
catalogue. 

5  Bunclirew.  6  Corrybrough. 


FORTROSE,  KILRAVOCK,  CAWDOR.  181 

which  was  the  See  of  the  Bishop  of  Ross  founded  by  Uavid 
the  1st  about  1124. 

The  Church  is  entirely  destroyed  excepting  one  chapel  to 
the  South  of  it,  in  which  there  is  a  burial-place  of  Ld.  Sea- 
forth's  family,  and  it  has  been  in  service  since  the  reformation, 
but  is  now  in  ruins,  it  is  a  well-built  Gothic  fabric  of  hewn 
stone  inside  and  outside.  The  foundations  of  the  Church 
appear,  which  was  large.  To  the  West  of  the  Church  in  the 
present  town  stands  the  shell  of  the  Bishop's  house  a  very  poor 
building.  In  the  yard  are  finely  cut  on  a  large  stone  the  Arms 
of  the  King,  and  under  that  of  the  Bishop :  Lord  Seaforth 
has  a  ruined  house  in  this  place  :  It  is  a  poor  small  town,  but 
beautifully  situated  on  a  fine  flat  spot  of  ground  under  the 
hill.  They  have  some  little  manufacture  of  linnen  yarn  and  a 
small  fishery.  I  passed  four  miles  on  the  great  military  road 
which  leads  to  Sterling,  and  went  a  mile  to  the  Nortli  West  of 
it,  mostly  through  a  wood  to  Mr.  Ross's  of  Killrack,1  a  large 
house  built  to  an  old  Castle  over  the  Nairn,  the  Country  rather 
rough,  but  there  is  a  fine  wood  near  the  House :  Here  is  a 
granite  runing  in  small  red  and  blew  veins ;  between  the  stones 
is  a  sort  of  green  Cement,  which  has  Copper  in  it. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXVI. 

ELGIN,  July  26th  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  24th  Mr.  Rosse's  Eldest  Son,  Dr. 
Robinson  and  Mr.  Brody  the  minister  came  with  me  to  Calder, 
where  I  took  leave  of  Governour  Trappeau  who  had  brought  me 
to  Kilravock2  in  his  chaise.  Calder  is  the  seat  of  a  family  of 
that  name  who  were  the  Thanes  of  Calder ;  it  now  belongs  to 
Mr.  Campbell  who  lives  in  Pembrockshire,  to  whose  family  it 
came  by  the  marriage  of  the  heiress  of  Calder.  It  is  a  good 
house  built  to  an  old  Castle3  of  one  room  on  a  floor  ;  there  is  a 

1  Rose  of  Kilravock  (pronounced  locally  Kilrack). 

2  For  'A  Genealogical  Deduction  of  the  Family  of  Rose  of  Kilravock,  1290- 
1847,'  see  the  Spalding  Club  Pub.  1848. 

3  For  views  and  plans  of  Cawdor  Castle  see   Castellated  Arch,   of  Scot. ,  by 
MacGibbon  and  Ross,  1887,  vol.  ii.  pp.  314-323. 


182  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Drawbridge  to  it,  and  the  Stables  were  in  vaults  under  the  new 
house,  and  so  is  a  very  fine  Kitchen :  they  say  that  the  Thanes 
lived  in  a  wooden  house  probably  built  with  a  Wooden  frame 
on  a  low  Mount  about  half  a  mile  to  the  North  East  near 
which  I  saw  the  ruins  of  a  Chapel,  and  that  this  Castle  was 
built  about  300  years  ago  round  a  Hawthorn  tree,  the  body  of 
which  we  saw  standing,  and  concerning  it  there  is  some  family 
Tradition.1 

The  Castle  stands  on  a  brook,  which  is  a  great  torrent  in 
winter,  and  runs  between  Rocks,  that  a  little  higher,  are  fifty 
feet  high,  adorned  with  trees  and  very  beautifull.  We  came  by 
the  banks  of  the  River  Nairn  which  is  a  tremendous  torrent 
after  rains,  to  Nairn,  a  town  of  one  street  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  long  and  may  consist  of  100  houses.  It  is  very  pleasantly 
situated  on  an  eminence  between  the  Sea  and  the  river ;  over 
the  river  was  the  Castle  of  the  Constable ;  there  is  a  good 
bridge  across  it,  here  is  a  salmon  fishing  after  rains,  but  when 
the  water  is  low  there  is  no  visible  outlet.  I  was  told  since  I 
left  it,  that  the  river  did  run  into  the  Sea  directly  South,  close 
to  the  East  End  of  the  Town,  and  that  there  was  a  Pier  at  the 
mouth  of  it,  the  remains  of  which  have  been  taken  for  the 
ruins  of  a  Castle  which  are  seen  only  at  very  low  water.  Nairn 
is  a  Royal  borough  and  I  was  presented  with  my  Freedom,2  & 
I  set  forward  toward  Torres. 

We  passed  by  Brodie3  the  Seat  of  Brodie  late  Lord  Lyon, 

1  '  The  tradition  is,  that  the  original  proprietor  was  directed  by  a  dream  to 
load  an  ass  with  gold,  turn  it  loose,  and,  following  its  footsteps,  build  a  castle 
wherever  the  ass  rested.  By  and  by  it  arrived  beneath  the  branches  of  a  hawthorn 
tree,  where,  fatigued  with  the  weight  upon  its  back,  it  knelt  down  to  rest.  The 
space  round  the  tree  was  cleared  for  building,  the  foundation  laid,  and  a  tower 
erected  :  but  the  tree  was  preserved,  and  remains  a  singular  memorial  of  super- 
stition. The  trunk  of  the  tree,  with  its  branches,  is  still  shown  in  a  vaulted 
apartment  at  the  bottom  of  the  principal  tower.  Its  roots  branch  out  beneath 
the  floor,  and  its  top  penetrates  through  the  vaulted  arch  of  stone  above,  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  make  it  appear,  beyond  dispute,  that  the  tree  stood,  as  it  does, 
before  the  tower  was  erected.' 

3  The  burgh  records  of  Nairn  are  very  incomplete.  Mr.  Win.  Laing,  the 
Town-Clerk,  writes: — 'The  minutes  of  that  period  are  not  in  a  state  of  good 
preservation,  and  I  fear  that  the  part  applicable  to  the  year  1760  has  either 
gone  amissing  or  been  destroyed.' 

:t  For  the  Diary  of  Alexander  Brodie  of  Brodie,  1652-1680,  and  of  his  son, 
James  Brodie  of  Brodie,  1680-1685,  see  the  Spalding  Club  Pub.  1863. 


CAWDOR,  DARNAWAY,  FORRES.  183 

which  is  finely  planted,  and  came  to  Tarnaway1  the  Earl  of 
Murray's,  a  fine  situation  on  an  eminence  granted  to  Randolph 
Earl  of  Murray  by  King  .  .  .  The  Earl  used  it  as  a 
hunting  seat,  and  built  only  a  very  large  hall,  in  which  they 
show  Randolph's  Carved  Chair  of  Oak.1  I  was  told  that 
underground  Rooms  had  been  taken  from  it  by  raising  the 
floor,  and  consequently  its  height  is  much  lessened.  To  Tarna- 
way Castle  a  large  house  has  been  built  in  the  Castle  style,  and 
there  are  fine  woods  with  ridings  in  them. 

It  is  situated  over  a  rivulet,  which  falls  into  the  Findhorn 
a  terrible  torrent  after  rains,  across  it  we  forded,  and  in  about 
two  miles  came  to  Forres  another  small  town  consisting  of  a 
handsome  broad  street,  and  about  150  houses  ;  it  is  well  built 
and  most  delightfully  situated  in  view  of  the  river,  the  sea, 
and  a  very  fine  country ;  A  beautifull  situation  at  the  West 
end  of  the  town  belongs  to  Sir  William  Dunbar ;  it  was  the 
site  of  an  old  Castle,  on  which  a  Modern  house  was  begun  to 
be  built. 

This  is  a  Royal  borough  &  the  Provost  Mr.  Cummin  the 
head  of  that  very  ancient  family  came  to  town  on  purpose 
to  give  me  my  freedom,2  but  the  town  Clerk  was  absent,  and  it 
was  sent  after  me. 

A  little  to  the  East  of  the  town  is  Clover  hill,4  round  which 
about  halfway  up  is  an  old  entrenchment  probably  of  the 
Danes  who  gained  a  great  victory  over  the  Scotch  near  this 

1  Darnaway  Castle.    Randolph,  Earl  of  Moray,  was  Regent  during  the  minority 
of  King  David  n.,  but  the  castle  appears  to  have  been  at  least  partly  built  by 
Archibald  Douglas,  Earl  of  Moray,  about  1450. — Exchequer  Rolls  for  1456-58.     A 
view  of  the  carved  oak  roof  in  the  hall  is  shown  in  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel- 
lated Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887,  vol.  i.  p.  305.     '  Randolph's  oaken  chair,  on  which  are 
coarsely  carved  the  bearings  of  his  office  and  arms,  weighs  about  60  Ibs.,  and 
differs  little  from  the  coronation  chain  in  Westminster  Abbey.' — Old Stat.  Ac., 
vol.  xx.  p.  224. 

2  Mr.  Rob.  Urquhart,  Town- Clerk,  Forres,  writes  : — '  There  is  no  record  of  this 
presentation  in  the  old  Minute-Books  of  the  Council.     After  the  minute  of  the 
26th  June  1760  there  is  a  blank  of  more  than  half  the  page,  which  has  probably 
been  left  for  the  purpose  of  filling  up,  on  the  Town-Clerk's  return,  the  minute  as 
to  Bishop  Pococke's  admission  as  a  burgess.     The  next  minute  is  dated  the  3ist 
July  1760,  and  seems  to  have  been  the  last  subscribed  by  Provost  Gumming  of 
Altyre. 

3  Cluny  Hill. 


184  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

place,  where  a  pillar1  is  set  up  about  20  feet  high  :  on  one  side 
is  a  long  cross,  and  a  compartment  below  it  something  like  a 
Coat  of  Arms ;  on  the  other  side  are  about  ten  compartments 
of  figures  some  of  men,  others  of  horsemen,  and  some  of  beasts  ; 
this  is  the  East  side,  which  being  the  rainy  quarter  is  much 
defaced.  I  have  been  informed  that  a  Traveller  ought  to  go 
from  this  place  to  Strath  Spey  to  Castle  Grant,  three  miles 
North  West  of  which  is  Roeth2  an  old  castle,  &  at  Cord  na 
Thesu  or  Abernethy  is  another  old  Castle,2  &  Iron  forges  & 
furnaces  built  by  the  York  building  Company:3  From  that 
place  down  the  Spey  to  Keith  or  Gordon  Castle  &  Garmouth  the 
land  is  yearly  increased  by  the  stones  brought  down  by  the  Spey. 
We  went  on  a  mile  to  the  Abbey  of  Kinloss4  or  Kean  Loch 
(the  head  of  the  Lake)  founded  by  St.  David  in  1150 ;  the 
Cistercian  Monks  were  brought  to  it  from  Melross :  Edward 
Bruce  Commendator  of  it  was  made  Baron  Bruce  of  Kinloss  by 
James  the  6th  the  Church  is  entirely  destroyed  but  there  is  a 
ruin  on  the  North  Side  of  the  East  End  of  an  arched  room  and 
another  over  it,  I  at  first  imagined  there  might  be  a  tower  on 
each  side  of  the  East  End  ;  there  are  Shallow  Niches  on  the 
west  side  of  it  which  seem  to  be  part  of  the  Cloyster ;  The 
Chapter  house  is  in  a  line  with  the  tower  which  consisted  of 
three  arches  supported  by  two  rows  of  small  octagon  pillars 
three  in  a  row ;  to  the  North  of  the  Cloyster  is  a  grand  gate 
finely  adorned  with  Carving,  and  to  the  East  of  this  is  a  broad 

1  Sweno's  Stone,  or  the  Forres  Pillar.     It  has  been  frequently  figured.    Gordon's 
Itinerarium,   1727,   PI.   Ivi.   p.    159;   Cordiner's  Antiq.  North  of  Scot.    1780, 
p.  55  >  Alexander's  Sketches  of  Moray ;  Anderson's  Scotland  in  Early  Christian 
Times,  1883,  p.  279. 

2  Probably  Castles  Roy  and  Lochindorb  are  meant,  but  the  localities  reversed  ; 
or  Rate  Castle — a  stronghold  of  the  once  powerful  Cumins. 

3  The  enterprise  carried  on  at  Abernethy,  and  its  connection  with  the  forfeited 
estates,   is  well  described  in  a   pamphlet,    '  The  York  Buildings  Company ;  a 
Chapter  in  Scotch  History,'  1883,  by  David  Murray,  M.A.,  F.S.A.  Scot.     See 
also   'Paper  on  The  Early  History  of  the  Iron  Industry,'  by  D.  W.  Kemp,  in 
Trans.  Royal  Scot.  Soc.  of  Arts,  1886;    'Notes  on  the  Ancient  Iron  History  of 
Scotland,'  by  W.  Ivison  Macadam,  F.C.S.,  Proc.  Soc.  of  Antiq.  Scot.,  1886-87. 

4  Founded  by  David  I.  in  1 1 50,  and  confirmed  by  Papal  Bull  in  1 1 74.     See 
Record  of  the  Monastery  of  Kinloss,  with  illustrative  documents.     Ed.  by  Dr. 
Stuart,  1872.     The  stones  of  the  building  were  largely  taken  for  the  construction 
of  Cromwell's  Fort  at  Inverness  in  1650.     The  son  of  the  first  Baron   Kinloss 
was  created  Earl  of  Elgin  in  1633. 


KINLOSS,  BURGHEAD.  185 

Arch,  which  is  a  small  segment  of  a  circle  and  I  take  to  have 
been  the  Cistern  for  washing  the  hands  at  the  Entrance  of  the 
refectory,  of  which  there  are  now  no  signs  ;  but  to  the  North 
of  the  supposed  site  of  it,  are  large  buildings  of  three  stories 
which  might  be  the  Abbott's  Lodging,  but  I  rather  think  to  be 
more  modern,  on  the  west  side  of  the  wall  of  the  Cloyster  are 
arches  in  the  wall  supported  by  pilasters  that  might  be  part  of 
some  Chapel  belonging  to  the  Church. 

I  here  visited  the  Minister1  who  went  on  with  me  near  to  Sir 
Robert  Gordon's ;  we  crossed  a  large  Strand.  Here  they  find 
turf  under  the  Sands  a  considerable  way  out,  and  about  the  river 
Findhorn,  hills  of  Sand  are  frequently  raised  in  one  night,  & 
sometimes  blown  away  in  the  like  space  of  time.  We  came  to 
Bruff  or  Brugh-Sea,  a  poor  fishing  village  at  the  East  End  of 
the  strand  ;  To  the  North  of  it  is  a  small  Promontory  of  about 
two  acres  of  ground  called  Brugh  head  :  This  was  fortified  first 
with  a  deep  fossee  by  which  the  Sea  came  in,  and  made  it  an 
Island,  and  then  by  three  more  fossees ;  the  high  part  to  the 
west  forms  a  Triangle,  washed  to  the  west  by  the  Sea,  and 
seems  to  have  been  defended  by  Walls  now  ruined  and  appear 
as  a  heap  of  stones ;  tho1  I  don't  recollect  I  saw  any  Mortar  : 2 

To  the  East  is  a  flat  strip  of  ground  not  much  above  the 
Sea  which  was  also  fortified,  but  now  it  appears  like  a  Rampart 
of  Earth,  here  were  houses  for  Women  and  Children,  for  this 
was  a  place  of  Arms  for  the  Danes,  when  they  landed  in  1108 
and  staid  till  1112.  There  must  have  been  here  considerable 
buildings,  as  they  find  large  beams  of  Oak  about  a  foot  square 
which  were  worked  so  as  to  be  used  for  buildings.  The  Danes 
fought  a  second  time  at  Mortlick — ten  miles  South  of  Elgen 
and  were  defeated ;  Gordon3  thinks  the  stone  at  Forres  was  set 
up  on  that  Victory.  Mortlick  is  in  the  Shire  of  Banf  twelve 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  Spey,  and  three  miles  from  that  river, 
between  the  Castles  of  Balveny  and  Auchin  Down,  and  36  miles 
from  Aberdeen :  on  the  Victory  Malcam  in.  founded  a  see 

1  The  Rev.  James  Munro. 

'  The  ramparts,  with  their  dry  stone  building,  more  nearly  resemble  the 
brochs  of  the  North  ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  note  that  the  place  is  to  this  day  called 
"  The  Broch  "  as  freely  as  it  is  called  Burghead.' — Trans.  Inverness  Scien.  Soc., 
1878,  vol.  i.  p.  164.  Anderson's  Scotland  in  Pagan  Times,  1883,  p.  279. 

3  Gordon's  Itinerariuin  Septeittn'onale,  1727,  p.  159. 


186  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

there  in  1110  which  in  1206  was  removed  to  Aberdeen.1  They 
were  beat  a  3d  time  at  Barry  near  Dundee,  and  last  of  all  at 
Crudin  in  Buchan,  and  were  all  permitted  to  go  off  on  taking 
an  oath  they  never  wou'd  return  more. 

We  came  on  about  two  miles  to  Duff  us  near  the  West  end 
of  Lough  Spigny,  to  the  South  of  it,  on  a  Mount  near  the 
Lough,  are  the  remains  of  the  Castle  of  Duffus  the  Seat  of  the 
Lords  of  that  name,  one  of  which  forfeited  for  Rebellion  (?) 
and  was  afterwards  an  Admiral  in  the  Swedish  Service ;  We 
came  on  half  a  mile  to  Gordon's  toun,2  the  Seat  of  Sir  Robert 
Gordon  a  large  house  of  seven  windows  in  front  which  would 
have  made  a  good  appearance  if  clumsy  offices  had  not  been 
built  on  each  side  with  a  very  high  roof  of  three  sides  resting 
against  the  wall  of  the  house. 

About  two  miles  more  brought  us  to  Kinedder  where  Bp 
Archibald  built  a  large  house  about  the  year  1290  and,  I 
suppose,  a  Church  in  form  of  a  Cross  the  foundations  of  which 
are  seen  as  well  as  of  the  house,  and  of  the  wall  of  the  enclosure. 
Some  say  the  Bp^s  See  at  first  was  fixed  at  Bernie,  then 
removed  to  Spigney,  and  describe  this  as  a  Country  house, 
but  others  say,  that  they  had  no  fixed  See,  but  resided 
sometimes  at  one  place  and  sometimes  at  another,  which 
seems  to  have  been  the  truth ;  for  Bishop  Bruce  of  the 
family  of  Douglas,  represented  to  the  Pope,  that  they  had 
no  fixed  place  of  residence  and  desired  that  the  See  might 
be  fixed  at  Spigny.3  And  this  has  frequently  been  the  case 
where  Bishops  have  their  titles  from  a  Country,  &  not  from 
the  town  of  their  residence.  Kinnedder  is  near  the  Sea,  and  we 
came  to  the  East  End  of  the  Lough  of  Spigny,  there  is  a  great 
appearance  that  this  was  an  island  to  the  North,  that  the  Sea 
first  gave  way  to  the  West,  there  being  a  large  beach  at  the 
West  end  of  the  Lough,  and  Banks  to  the  South  which  seem  to 
have  been  the  bounds  of  the  Sea ;  for  to  the  North,  and  running 
from  East  to  West,  are  a  great  number  of  old  beaches  of  gravel 

1  See  note  3,  p.  204. 

-  See  Rhind's  Sketches  of  Moray,  p.  121. 

3  See  The  Parish  of  Sfyme,  by  Robert  Young,  1871  ;  and  '  Extracts  from  the 
Register  of  the  Regality  Court  of  Spynie,'  Spahiing  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  ii. 
pp.  120-146. 


SPYNIE.  187 

that  appear  like  plough  furrows,  and  seem  to  have  been  made 
successively  as  the  Sea  retired ;  There  is  the  same  appearance 
of  Sand  banks  and  gravelly  banks  of  the  Sea  all  the  way  to 
Pluscardin,  so  that  it  seems  to  have  formed  a  sort  of  Lough 
between  the  land  untill  it  retired  some  ages  after  the  flood. 

I  came  to  the  Castle  of  Spigny,1  finely  situated  over  the 
South  Side  of  Lough  Spigney :  It  originally  seemed  to  have 
consisted  of  a  Chapel1  on  one  side,  with  a  small  strong  square 
tower  to  retire  to  in  time  of  Danger,  and  a  hall  on  the  other 
with  a  high  building  of  seven  apartments  to  the  East  of  the 
gate ;  but  Bishop  David  Stewart  having  been  threatened  by 
Alexander  Lord  Huntley  built  that  noble  Castle,  which  with  a 
littje  more  building  adjoyning  to  it,  and  what  was  built  before, 
encloses  the  whole  court,  the  walls  are  ten  feet  thick ;  it  con- 
sists of  six  floors  about  24  by  40  feet  with  several  closets 
practiced  in  the  Walls  which  range  all  round ;  at  top  there  is 
an  Arch,  &  one  over  the  ground  floor,  and  one  over  the  highest 
room  but  one  ;  all  being  covered  with  a  roof:  it  is  built  of  hewn 
freestone  inside  and  out ;  over  the  Entrance  to  the  court  are 
the  Bishops  Arms  with  a  Crosier  for  the  Crest :  On  the  Tower 
are  the  Arms  of  the  Royal  family,  with  a  Ducal  Coronet  resting 
on  the  back  of  a  Couchant  unicorn ;  under  this  are  the  other 
arms ;  there  is  a  Mitre  on  one  of  them,  if  not  on  both. 

On  the  Height  to  the  North  West  are  remains2  of  a  Church 
which  they  say  was  the  Ancient  Cathedral,  and  afterwards  a 
parish  Church. 

This  Lake3  is  four  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  broad,  there 
are  swans  always  on  it  which  breed  in  the  Islands  and  there  are 
very  large  pike  in  the  Lough. — I  am,  &c. 

1  For  plans  and  views  of  Spynie  Palace,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castellated 
Architecture  of  Scotland,  1887,  vol.  i.  pp.  439-445. 

-  The  last  of  the  remains,  a  Gothic  gable,  fell  about  1850,  and  now  all  trace 
of  the  old  Cathedral  is  gone. 

3  Loch  of  Spynie  is  now  drained.  See  the  interesting  account  of  the  reclama- 
tion in  Young's  J"he  Parish  of  Spynie,  pp.  5-36. 


188  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LKTTKR  XXXVII. 

ELGIN,  July  .  .  .   1760. 

DEAR  SISTKU, — From  Spigny  we  came  two  short  miles  to 
Elgin  situated  between  low  hills  on  the  small  river  Lossie ;  The 
town  chiefly  consists  of  a  broad  street  half  a  mile  long  ;  in  the 
middle  of  which  is  the  large  parish  Church  dedicated  to  their 
Patron  St  Giles  whose  figure  is  the  Arms  of  the  town.  There 
are  about  3000  Souls  in  it,  they  have  a  manufacture  of  Linnen 
yarn,  and  some  linnen,  blankets,  and  coarse  cloath,  mostly  for 
home  consumption.  They  have  also  a  good  Market  and  Shops. 

Bishop  Andrew  of  the  Duffus  family,  obtained  from  Alex- 
ander the  first  the  ground  on  the  river  to  the  East  of  the  town 
for  the  site  of  a  Cathedral  which  he  built,  and  it  was  conse- 
crated in  1224.  The  Towers  are  at  the  West  End,  &  the 
Transcept  seems  to  be  of  the  old  building,  being  of  a  plainer 
and  heavier  Gothic  Architecture  than  the  rest  of  the  building. 
For  in  1390  Alexander  Earl  of  Buchan,  called  the  Wolf  of 
Badenoch,  burnt  the  town  of  Elgin,  particularly  the  Cathedral, 
St.  Gileses  Church,  the  Maison  de  Dieu,  and  18  houses  of  Canons 
and  Chaplains ;  for  which  when  he  was  absolved  from  his 
Excommunication,  he  made  the  best  restitution  he  could  :  when 
Bishop  Leigh  ton  came  to  the  See  in  1414  he  gave  a  third  of  his 
Bishoprick  to  build  the  Cathedral  Church,  and  "'tis  said  all  the 
Chapter  did  the  same :  And  then  it  is  to  be  supposed  this 
beautifull  Cathedral x  was  begun,  the  Ornaments  of  which  show 
that  Arts  had  begun  to  revive.  The  west  door  is  extremely 
fine,  consists  of  thirty  members  of  round  pillars,  fillets  and 
flutes ;  There  are  two  door  places  in  it  which  are  all  adorned 
inside  and  outside  with  most  elegant  open  carved  work ;  over 
the  middle  is  a  compartment  in  which  they  say  there  was 
a  Crucifix,  there  is  a  Nich  on  each  side,  and  one  over  each  of 
them.  "Pis  said  in  these  were  the  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul,  and  over  the  point  of  the  arch  in  the  middle  compart - 

1  See  Shaw' 's  History  of  the  Province  of  Moray,  1775;  Pennant's  7our,  1769, 
p.  162  ;  Cordiner's  Antiq.  of  Scot.,  1776,  p.  57  ;  Forsyth's  Survey  of  the  Province 
of  Moray,  1798;  Rhind  and  Alexander's  Sketches  of  Moray,  1839. 


ELGIN.  189 

inent  there  seems  to  have  been  some  ornament  probably  an 
Emblem  of  the  Trinity  to  which  the  Church  was  dedicated,  for 
on  a  house  near  adjoining  there  is  a  head  carved  in  Stone,  with 
three  faces  ;  The  body  of  the  Church  seems  to  have  consisted  of 
three  windows  and  a  door  on  each  side,  so  that  to  the  west 
there  was  a  porch,  and  the  towers  have  been  raised  higher  in 
this  elegant  style  ;  the  Buttress  in  which  the  Staircase  is  formed, 
appearing  a  modern  work :  The  middle  tower  which  'tis  said 
was  very  grand,  fell  down  not  long  since,  occasioned  by  digging 
a  grave  near  the  foundation  :     From  this  spot  about  half  the 
Quire  is  plain  wall,  except  an  opening  to  a  Chapel  in  which 
the  family  of  Gordon  are  buried ;  in  this  part  the  stalls  seem 
to  have  been,  for  it  is  distinguished  from  the  East  part  by  a 
compounded  Gothic  pillar  on  each   side  crowned  with   three 
tiers  of  pyramidal  Carved  Ornaments.     On  each  side  and  at  the 
East  End  are  fine  single  windows  adorned  within  with  three 
small  circular  pilasters  and  two  flutes  between  them,  on  the 
outside  with  two  pillasters  and  one  flute,  all  the  flutes  being 
covered  with  carved  works  in  roses,  as  beautifull  as  the  finest 
roman  or  greek  ornaments :  over  these  on  each  side,  and  over 
the  plain  part  are  single  windows,  under  them  on  the  North 
Side  are  the  four  Niches  for  the  persons  who  administered,  and 
a  Nich  for  the  Elements,  on  the  North  Side  is  a  large  Nich 
probably  designed  for  the  tomb  of  the  founder,  and  on  that 
side  is  the  door  that  leads  to  the  Chapter  house ;  whicli  is  an 
Octagon  about  thirty-six  feet  in  Diameter,  the  Arch  of  whicli 
is  adomed  with  Coats  of  Arms,  and  supported  by  a  pillar  con- 
sisting of  several  pilasters,  every  stone  going  entirely  through  ; 
at  the  upper  end  is  a  Seat  for  the  Dean  and  two  on  each  side 
of  it  for  the  dignitaries,  there  was  a  bench  all  round,  and  a 
window  in  each  of  the  right  sides ;  and  here  the  Ornaments  are 
in  the  same  fine  taste.1 

The  four  dignitaries  seem  to  have  had  their  houses  to  the 
North  of  the  Church,  the  Archdeacon  had  his  to  the  South, 
and  probably  the  prebendaries ;  most  of  the  names  of  the  five 
first  are  retained.  All  was  enclosed  by  a  high  wall  of  a  large 

1  In  the  Edinburgh  Architectural  Association's  Sketch-Book,  1887,  vol.  i.,  New 
Series,  there  are  ground-plan  of  south  transept  and  exterior  elevation,  also  Tri- 
forium  plan  and  interior  elevation,  by  Mr.  James  C.  Watt. 


190  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

circumference,  which  Close  was  called  the  Colledge.  Near  the 
wall  to  the  South  was  an  hospital  commonly  called  Maison 
Dieu  and  in  the  records  Domus  Dei  de  Elgin,  a  wall  of  the 
Chapel  remains :  To  the  west  of  this  is  the  Grey  Friers,  which 
I  suppose  was  the  monastery  of  the  Observantines,  founded  by 
John  Innes  in  1479 ;  The  walls  of  the  Church  remain  entire ; 
it  is  a  very  plain  building ;  Towards  the  west  gate  on  the 
South  Side  was  the  Monastery  of  red  Cross  which  are  supposed 
to  be  the  Knights  of  Jerusalem ;  but  I  find  no  mention  of 
them  in  books. 

To  the  North  of  the  Castle  hill  in  a  field,  are  some  slight 
remains  of  the  foundation  of  the  Church  of  the  black  friars  or 
Dominicans,  founded  by  Alexander  the  lid  in  1233.  Two 
Chapels  also  are  mentioned,  one  of  the  Trinity,  the  other,  if  I 
mistake  not,  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  Mr.  Innes's  house  is  on  the 
site  of  one  of  them  to  the  North  East  of  the  Cathedral.  They 
have  here  one  Kirk,  a  Meeting  house  of  Seceders,  and  a  Chapel 
of  the  Church  of  England,1  built  on  the  site  of  the  Chapel  of 
St.  John. 

There  is  a  large  house2  in  the  town  built  by  the  Murray  and 
Duffus  families  with  some  fine  appartments  in  it,  and  there  are 
many  good  houses  in  the  town :  On  the  Castle  hill  to  the 
AVest  called  also  Lag  hill  are  ruins  of  an  old  wall ;  it  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  Country. 

I  went  four  computed  miles  to  the  south  west,  and  by  west, 
to  the  Priory  of  Pluscardin3  situated  between  the  hills  on  the 
rivulet  called  Lochty,  which  falls  into  the  Lossy,  it  is  in  a  fine 
flat  spot  which  (as  the  name  of  the  river  imports)  seems  to 
have  been  a  Lough  ;  It  was  a  very  grand  Monastery ;  The 
body  of  the  Church  is  destroyed.  There  were  fine  Gothic 
windows  to  the  Quire,  and  at  the  North  End  of  the  Transept 

1  '  Bishop  Pococke  was  the  only  Bishop  of  the  Church  of  England,  since  the 
Revolution,  that  preached  and  confirmed  in  Scotland,  when  Episcopacy  was 
there  abolished.    .    .    .    He  preached  and  confirmed  in  the  English  Church  in 
Elgin  ;  and  continued  to  do  so  in  every  other  of  that  persuasion  which  he  had 
occasion  to  be  near.' — The  Cambridge  Chronicle,  5th  October  1765.     See  Note  I, 

P-SI- 

2  Thunderton  House,  the  ancient  house  of  the  Sutherland  family  of  Duffus, 
illustrated  in  Sketches  of  Moray,  by  Rhine!  and  Alexander,  p.  55. 

3  See  Macphail's  History  of  the  Religious  Hotise  of  Phi  scar dyn,  1881. 


ELGIN,  PLUSCARDINE,  BIRNIE.  191 

a  beautifull  round  window  twenty  feet  in  Diameter.  There 
are  two  Chapels  on  the  East  side  of  the  Transept,  and  a  small 
Chapel  on  each  side  to  the  East  of  them,  in  which  most  of  the 
Stones  of  the  Arches  are  of  one  Stone  laid  from  Mullion  to 
Mullion  ;  over  the  Northern  Chapel  is  a  building  which  might 
be  a  Chapel  to  the  Prior's  appartment  that  might  joyn  to  the 
refectory  on  the  same  floor;  under  the  refectory  was  the 
Chapter  house  and  the  Kitchen,  the  arches  of  both  are  supported 
by  pillars,  with  a  passage  between  them,  and  over  the  Kitchen 
is  another  arched  room.  Whatever  fate  befell  the  Monastery 
after  the  irregular  Monks  were  chastised,  and  it  was  made  a 
Cell  to  Dunferling :  It  appears  that  the  opening  from  the  body 
to  the  Transept  was  walled  up,  and  in  each  of  the  fine  windows 
of  the  Quire  is  built  a  plain  Gothic  window  probably  that  it 
might  serve  as  a  parish  Church.  It  is  built  of  very  fhie  yellow 
hewn  freestone  inside  and  out  brought  from  the  hills  called 
Quarelwood,1  from  which  Elgin  was  also  supplied  with  Stone. 

We  came  within  two  miles  of  Elgin  to  JBirney,  to  see  the 
Church 2  which  was  probably  the  first  Cathedral  of  the  See  of 
Moray  founded  in  the  Eleventh  Century  (as  'tis  said)  by  King 
Malcolm  Hid.  It  is  a  small  plain  Church  with  a  Chancel ;  The 
windows  on  each  side  are  narrow  &  turned  with  true  arches ; 
and  the  Arch  and  pillars  that  support  it  leading  to  the  Chancel 
are  plain  Saxon  Architecture  with  singular  capitals,  the  whole 
is  of  hewn  stone  within  as  well  as  on  the  outside.  On  the  hill 
to  the  South  are  some  marks  of  foundations  called  the  Castle, 
which  by  tradition  was  the  Bishop's  house. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXVIII. 


A,    1760. 

DEAR  SISTEB,  —  On  the  29th  the  Gentlemen  who  had  visited 

1  Now  called  Quarrywood.  '  Quarrelwood,  so  called  from  a  rich  quarry  of 
freestone  in  the  adjacent  hill.'  —  S/iazv's  Hist,  of  Moray,  1775,  p.  79.  'In  old 
writings  it  is  written  Querelwode,  Correilwoocl,  and  Quarelwode,  and  as  it  had 
this  name  before  there  were  quarries  in  the  hill,  it  may  be  somewhat  difficult  to 
ascertain  the  meaning  of  the  word.'—  Young's  The  Parish  of  Spynie,  p.  62. 

"  There  is  a  saying  associated  with  this  church  which  has  become  proverbial  : 
'  You  have  need  to  be  prayed  for  thrice  in  the  church  of  Birnie,  that  you  may 
either  end  or  mend.' 


192  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

me  accompanied  me  out  of  town :  The  Master  of  Forbes 
returned  home,  and  near  the  Church  of  Urquhart,  I  was  met 
by  Sir  Harry  Innys  who  showed  me  the  Church.  It  is  of  the 
old  Saxon  Architecture  with  narrow  windows.  Going  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  North  of  it,  I  was  shown  the  field  in  which  stood  the 
priory  of  Urquhart  which  was  a  Cell  of  Dumferleng1  founded 
by  David  the  first,  to  the  blessed  Trinity  in  1125,  nothing 
appears  except  a  spot,  not  cultivated,  which  might  be  the  site 
of  the  Church. 

From  this  I  went  to  Sir  Harry  Innys's ;  From  whose  house2 
Lough  Spigney  and  another  Lake  appear  like  a  large  river  at 
a  Distance  :  I  proceeded  on  my  Journey,  taking  leave  of  all  but 
Dr.  Brodie  and  Mr.  Chamler  who  travelled  on  with  me.  Sir 
Harry  Innys  came  with  me  near  to  the  Spey,  which  we  forded : 
here  it  is  a  red  earth  and  freestone  on  botli  sides :  They  have 
a  boat  for  Horses,  when  there  is  a  flood  in  the  river,  which  is 
a  terrible  wide  torrent.  It  is  supposed  to  be  the  Tuessis  of 
the  New  Map. 

The  King^s  Army  in  1746  passed  about  a  mile  lower ;  it  is 
said  that  some  of  this  Country  were  afraid3  to  pass  but  being 
led  on  by  Mr.  Brodie  a  very  zealous  person  of  Elgin,  and 
Father  of  Dr.  Brodie  of  Elgin,  others  followed,  and  those  who 
flinched  were  kept  for  the  rear :  Tho1  the  waters  were  high,  yet 
there  were  but  very  few  drowned ;  among  them  were  two  or 
three  women.  The  rebels  determined  that  the  troops  could 
not  stand  our  [?  their]  artillery  in  opposing  the  passage  of  the 
Army:  and  so  concluded  to  have  the  chance  of  a  pitched  battle. 

Near  the  East  side  of  the  river  is  Fochabars,  a  small  town 
that  chiefly  subsists  by  the  Salmon  fishery,  which  is  very  great 

1  Dunfermline.  -  Innes  House,  now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Fife. 

3  This  story  may  be  paralleled  by  '  the  following  anecdote,  with  regard  to  the 
Earl  of  Sutherland's  regiment  of  Highlanders  (now  arrived  from  the  northern 
counties  to  Aberdeen)  we  copy  from  the  Aberdeen  Journal  of  last  post.  On 
arrival  of  the  first  division  on  the  western  bank  of  Spey,  the  ferry-boat  was  not 
just  ready ;  and  that  way  of  passing  the  river  seeming  very  dilatory,  they  took 
immediately  into  the  water  (tho'  considerably  increased  by  rains  in  the  highlands), 
and  above  sixty  of  them  actually  passed  it  without  the  least  disorder  or  concern  ; 
and  the  whole  would  have  followed,  had  they  not  been  restrained  by  their 
officers,  upon  the  inhabitants  representing  that  the  river  was  still  rising — a  notable 
instance  of  the  natural  temerity  and  hardness  of  our  yet  brave  and  ineffeminated 
countrymen.' — The  Edinburgh  Evening  Cottranf,  Wednesday,  May  28,  1760. 


URQUHART,  FOCHABERS,  CULLEN.          193 

in  this  river :  There  is  a  little  place  near  the  Mouth  of  the 
river  where  they  salt  most  of  them.  This  place  or  Fochabers 
might  be  the  Site  of  Tuessis.  Castle  Gordon  is  very  near  the 
Town,  with  a  small  park  belonging  to  the  Duke  of  Gordon.1 
Most  of  the  way  to  the  Spey  was  heathy  and  so  it  is  for  about 
three  miles  from  the  Spey.  We  passed  by  an  Episcopal  Chapel 
which  was  in  use  till  of  late,  that  the  people  did  not  care  to 
support  it  for  alternate  service  with  Elgin  ;  the  most  of  the 
Duke  of  Gordon's  Tenants  having  been  papists  came  over  with 
the  present  Duke's  grandfather  to  the  Church  of  England. 
Here  they  manure  with  a  rotten  stone,  and  near  this  place  they 
have  a  reddish  Marie  and  a  blewish  near  Brockley  Mills. 

We  visited  Mr.  .  .  .  ,2  took  some  refreshment  there, 
and  came  on  through  a  fine  Country  to  Cullin,  a  small  town 
where  the  Earl  of  Finlater  is  endeavouring  to  establish  a  linnen 
Manufacture. 

A  little  to  the  North  East  of  the  house  is  a  sort  of  a  Danish 
Mount,  which  seemed  to  be  worked  into  two  terraces  :  and  all 
along  the  Coast  are  small  Mounts  which  they  say  were  made 
for  beacons ;  but  about  Urquhart  I  observed  some  very  small 
mounts,  which  I  was  informed  were  certainly  made  to  Caw  hawks, 
and  near  that  place  I  saw  the  remains  of  a  small  Circle  of  Stones 
about  5  feet  high,  they  were  large,  and  I  was  told  there  was 
another  near  it :  About  the  river  of  Nairn  above  Kilroack 3  are 
several,  they  say  above  twenty,  within  the  space  of  three  or  four 
miles,  and  there  are  many  in  the  Country  of  Bucghan,4  in 
Aberdeenshire. 

I  went  to  the  Earl  of  Finlaters,5  in  whose  house  there  are  some 
good  apartm*8  and  pictures,6  particularly  one  of  James  6th  wth 
a  strong  Character  in  his  face  of  that  smile  which  attended  his 
facetious  conversations.  His  Lordship  has  built  a  bridge  over 

1  Now  the  property  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond  and  Gordon. 

-  Blank  in  the  MS.  3  Kilravock.  4  Buchan. 

5  Earl  of  Findlater,  now  merged  into  the  title  and  estates  of  the  Earl  of 
Seafield. 

6  '  A  full  length  of  James  vi.  by  Mytens :  at  the  time  of  the  revolution,  the 
mob  had  taken  it  out  of  Holy-Rood  House,  and  were  kicking  it  about  the  streets, 
when  the  Chancellor,  the  Earl  of  Finlater,  happening  to  pass  by,  redeemed  it 
out  of  their  hands.' — Pennant's  Tour,  1769,  p.  151.     See  G< orge  Jatnesone,  the 
Scottish  Vandyck,  by  J.  Bulloch,  1885,  p.  174. 

N 


194  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

the  river  to  his  woods  and  Demesnes  on  the  other  side,  which  is 
84  feet  wide  and  sixty  high,  from  which  on  each  side  are  plea- 
sant winding  Walks  through  the  wood,  partly  in  sight  of  the 
river,  and  partly  at  a  Distance,  with  a  walk  likewise  over  the 
high  ground.  The  fields  are  planted,  as  are  the  hills  to  the 
West,  which  will  appear  very  beautifull  when  the  firr  trees 
grow  up. 

On  the  29th  I  left  this  place,  and  came  in  four  miles  to  Port- 
soy  a  little  town  and  Creek  with  a  mole  built  to  shelter  small 
vessels  :  They  export  Corn  here  and  some  fish  :  To  the  West  of 
the  town  are  two  perpendicular  veins  of  Marble,  which  run 
about  two  miles  into  the  land,  and  may  be  from  15  to  20  feet 
broad.  They  are  of  that  deep  green  streiked  and  another  kind 
mixed,  &  some  with  a  mixture  of  a  Deep  reddish  Cast  all  which 
are  called  the  Scotch  green  and  sometimes  the  Scotch  Serpentine 
for  it  resembles  that  soft  stone  called  Serpentine,  which  is  found 
in  Saxony. 

I  came  four  miles  further  to  Banf,  near  the  Town  is  a  yard 
for  bleching  linnen  yarn1  of  which  a  load  is  sent  off  every  three 
weeks  to  Edinburgh,  and  from  that  place  is  carried  on  to  Not- 
tingham by  Land.  Banf  is  a  well  built  small  town  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  rising  ground,  and  on  a  flat  to  the  west  of  the  river 
Devin  ;2  at  the  mouth  of  which  a  basin  is  made  by  two  piers  in 
which  a  ship  of  a  hundred  Ton  can  lie  with  safety :  And  they 
have  a  Salmon  fishery  in  the  river :  The  town  subsists  by  this 
linnen  yarn  and  Shops. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  the  Church  of  England  here,  the 
wife  often  going  one  way  and  the  husband  another :  So  that 
there  is  no  sort  of  animosity  in  the  Town  upon  the  account  of 
religion  :  Here  is  an  Episcopal  Chapel  to  which  about  600  souls 
resort  of  the  town  and  the  adjacent  Country. 

Lord  Despert3  has  a  small  house  on  the  site  of  the  old  Castle 
over  the  Mole ;  this  precinct  of  the  Castle  was  about  100  f. 
square,  and  a  small  part  of  the  Enclosure  remains.  He  has 
formed  a  Lawn  before  the  house  and  a  beautifull  walk  round 
another  lawn  below,  and  it  is  a  Delightfull  Summer  Situation. 

A  little  way  from  the  town  to  the  South,  the  Earl  of  Fife,  a 

1  For  an  account  of  the  thread  and  linen  manufactures,  see  Cordiner's  Antiq. 
of  Scot.,  1776,  p.  50. 

'  River  Deveron.  3  Lord  Deskford. 


PORTSOY,  BANFF,  TURRIFF.  195 

peer  of  the  Kingdom  of  Ireland  (his  Ancestor  Lord  M°Duff 
having  forfeited)  built  a  house  of  four  floors  and  six  rooms  on 
a  floor  with  tower  at  the  Angles  in  which  there  are  Closets,  and 
back  Stair  Cases  :  It  is  all  of  hewn  freestone,  brought  by  sea 
ready  worked  (as  I  was  told)  a  great  part  of  it  in  boxes  from 
the  Frith  of  Forth.  The  two  middle  stories  of  the  towers  are 
adorned  with  one  tier  of  Corinthian  pilasters  in  the  style  of 
Lord  Carlisle's  house  at  Castle  Howard  in  Yorkshire,  and  the 
attick,  with  composit  Pilastrs.  To  the  three  middle  rooms  every 
way  are  arched  windows  and  pediments  over  them.  The  Chim- 
neys are  brought  into  the  tower  to  what  appears  like  a  large 
pedestall  on  the  coved  roof  of  each  of  them.  The  Attick  story 
in  the  fronts  being  above  the  pediments  which  with  an  Entabla- 
ture crowns  the  other  stories.  The  under-story  is  rustic  ;  the 
ascent  in  the  front  to  the  South  is  by  winding  steps  on  each 
side,  and  leads  to  a  Saloon  over  which  is  a  room  of  a  Cube  of 
thirty  feet :  Excepting  the  towers  it  consists  of  seven  windows 
in  a  story,  and  is  within,  an  exceeding  good  house  of  thirty- 
four  rooms  and  sixteen  Closets ;  it  is  now  inhabited  by  Lord 
McDuff,  Ld  Fife's  Eldest  Son  who  is  married  to  the  sole  Heiress 
of  the  Earl  of  Cathness. 

A  little  to  the  South  of  the  Town  over  the  river  towards  a 
Mount  called  St.  Leonard's  hill  was  a  Convent  of  Carmelites 
entirely  destroyed ;  it  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  James 
the  6th  granted  the  Estate  to  the  old  College  of  Aberdeen. 
I  was  told  that  near  Banf  are  some  fine  Caves  in  the  Sea  Cliffs. 

We  Rid  six  miles  through  a  very  pleasant  country  in  the 
way  to  Aberdeen,  to  Forglan1  Lord  Banff's,  late  Sir  Alexander 
Ogilvye's.  It  is  near  Turriff'  and  is  very  delightfully  situated 
over  the  river2  with  large  plantations  about  it,  and  there  is  a 
most  pleasant  walk  both  up  and  down  the  river  through  the 
wood,  the  river  appearing  full  and  very  beautifull. 

The  river  Deven  or  as  some  Maps  have  it  Dovern — supposed 
to  be  the  ancient  Celnius ;  Selina  is  19  miles  from  the  Spey 
which  may  fall  in  with  Turriff — rises  in  Aberdeenshire,  and  is 
here  the  bounds  between  Banffshire  and  that  part  of  Aberdeen- 
shire  called  Buchan,  because  it  belonged  to  the  Earls  of  that 
name.  The  Spey  bounds  Banffshire  mostly  to  the  West,  which 
is  a  fine  Country.  The  next  thing  mentioned  in  the  New 
1  Forglen.  2  Deveron. 


196  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Itinerary1  is  Ituna  which  I  suppose  to  be  the  Ythan  ;  the  next 
is  Devana,  24  m.  Aberdeen ;  Fluv.  Tina  Inverberry  23  m.  ;  ad 
JEsica,  South  Esk  (it  may  be  at  Brechin),  on  which  stands  Mont- 
rose,  8  m. ;  Taviim  or  the  Tay,  23  m.  it  may  be  at  Dundee ; 
Orrea,  Schone,  19  m.  ;  Ad  Itunam,  the  Erne  probably  at 
Ardite,  14  m. ;  Victoria,  Kinross,  9  m. ;  Alauna,  Alva  or  some 
other  passage  over  the  Forth,  9  m  ;  Ad  Vallum,  it  may  be  about 
Falkirk  or  Lithgow,  12  m.  Afterwards  the  Itinerary  is  very 
doubtful.  Corio  is  the  next  &  all  are  without  miles.  This 
seems  to  be  Coria  Damniorum  supposed  to  be  at  Kirkurd  to  the 
North  West  of  Pebles,  &  is  in  the  road.  Gadanica  is  next 
mentioned,  &  answers  to  Colanica,  which  if  it  were  not  placed 
to  the  North  of  the  Mountains  might  be  Blatum  Bulgium. 
The  next  is  Trimontium,  Anan,  &  so  to  Lugu  Vallis,  Carlisle. 
— I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XXXIX. 

•  •'•  ,July,  .  .  .  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  30th  I  set  forward  to  the  East  and 
soon  came  to  Turriff,  on  an  Eminence  over  a  Stream2  which  falls 
into  the  Deven :  There  was  a  Church  of  Engd  Chapel  which  is 
still  kept  in  repair,  but  has  not  been  in  Service  since  the  late 
Act  passed.  We  travelled  by  this  Stream  and  going  over  some 
high  ground  we  soon  came  to  the  rivulets  which  run  eastward 
&  fall  into  the  river  Ugie  that  empties  itself  into  the  Sea  at 
Peterhead.  This  County  of  Buchan  is  a  fine  Corn  Country, 
abounding  in  small  hills  like  Northhamtonshire,  which  Country 
it  would  much  resemble,  if  it  were  as  well  planted  with  trees. 

We  came  to  a  little  village  called  New  Deer,  and  in  about 
four  miles  more  to  Old  Deer.  Half  a  mile  west  of  it  I  saw  the 
ruins  (on  the  river  Uggie)  of  the  Cistertian  Abbey  of  Deer,3 
which  seems  to  have  been  a  very  plain  building ;  it  was  founded 
by  William  Gumming,  Earl  of  Buchan  in  1218,  and  the  Monks 
were  brought  from  Kinloss.  Some  of  the  Sheriffs  of  the  Earl 
Marshall's  family  had  been  Abbots  of  this  place,  and  James  6th 
created  Robert  Keith  a  younger  Son  of  that  Earl  a  temporal 

1  Richard  of  Cirencester's  Itinerary,  see  note  4,  p.  26. 

2  The  Burn  of  Turriff,  which  falls  into  the  Deveron. 

3  The  Book  of  Deer.     Spalding  Club  Pub.  1869. 


TURRIFF,  OLD  DEER,  PETERHEAD.         197 

Lord  of  this  Abbey  by  the  title  of  Lord  Altrie,  which  title  fell 
into  the  Earl  of  Marischal. 

There  is  a  Chapel  at. Old  Deer  with  a  Congregation  from  the 
adjacent  Country  of  1000  Souls.  It  is  only  a  village  and  near 
it  is  the  seat1  of  Mr.  Ferguson,  a  famous  advocate,  who  is 
esteemed  a  great  Lawyer.  It  is  adorned  with  fine  plantations 
of  firr  and  other  trees. 

We  came  eight  miles  to  Peterhead,  pleasantly  situated  on 
a  fine  bay  formed  by  this  Cape  and  Boddom  head  on  which 
there  is  a  ruin  of  a  house  of  a  Baronet  of  the  name  of  Keith, 
in  this  bay  a  harbour  is  formed  by  a  narrow  head  that  stretches 
out  into  the  Sea,  and  two  piers  built  to  Defend  the  Shipping, 
in  the  harbour  a  Vessel  of  200  Tons  may  lay :  The  east  side  is 
formed  by  the  isle  of  Keith,  the  North  by  the  passage  to  it, 
the  West  by  the  Main  land,  and  the  South  by  the  two  piers, 
between  which  is  the  narrow  entrance  into  the  harbour,  there 
is  a  good  road  for  anchoring  in  the  bay  when  the  weather  is 
fair.  The  town  consists  chiefly  of  one  broad  well  built  street, 
the  rocks  here  are  of  red  granite,  and  many  of  the  houses  are 
built  of  this  Stone  hammered,  which  is  very  beautifull  when  it 
is  well  squared :  There  is  a  Chalybeat  Spaw2  here  which  is  well 
frequented,  it  seems  to  be  stronger  than  Tunbridge  Spaw,  but 
not  so  strong  as  the  German.  The  Freemasons  have  built  a 
bathing  place  adjoyning  to  it,  into  which  the  sea  water  is  to  be 
pumped ;  and  there  is  a  long  room  over  it  that  is  to  be  let  for 
the  use  of  the  company ;  it  is  fronted  with  the  granite,  very 
well  executed :  They  have  a  trade  here  in  an  import  of  Norway 
Deals  and  Iron,  and  of  French  wine  and  brandy,  and  other 
wines,  and  an  export  of  oyl  meal  and  barley  ;  and  also  a  small 
manufacture  of  linnen  yarn,  &  of  thread  and  woorsted  Stockings 
and  Gloves.  About  ten  leagues  off  there  is  a  rock  on  which  there 
is  a  good  fishing,  but  they  neglect  that,  as  well  as  the  lobster 
fishing :  They  have  great  plenty  of  fish  whenever  they  please  to 
take  them ;  the  Cod  fish,  the  Holybut,  and  Skait  in  great  abund- 
ance. The  Easterly  winds  here  bring  rains,  and  in  Summer  foggs, 
which  often  come  on  early  in  the  Evening,  continue  all  night 
and  sometimes  for  whole  days,  and  are  very  disagreeable  tho"1 
no  way  unwholesome,  except  that  by  their  moisture,  they  are 
apt  to  make  people  catch  cold  if  they  do  not  take  care. 
1  Pitfour.  -  The  Wine  Well. 


198  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

I  came  eight  miles  through  a  country  which  is  a  mixture  of 
corn  and  heath  to  Slanes  the  Earl  of  Errol's,  who  finding  the 
weather  foggy  had  sent  his  post  chaise  for  me,  having  had 
Intelligence  of  my  intention  to  wait  on  him  by  one  of  his 
family :  This  house,  built  round  a  Court,  is  situated  over  the 
Sea  Cliffs  which  are  not  very  high,  but  the  rocks  appear  in 
beautifull  figures  like  Gothick  workmanship  :  This  Earl  is  son 
of  Lord  Kilmarnock  and  inherited  the  title  and  Estate  of  Earl 
of  Errol  from  his  Aunt  about  two  years  agoe ;  Having  been 
bred  in  the  Army  and  was  in  the  King's  Service  in  1745. 

A  mile  to  the  North  of  this  place  is  a  remarkable  hole  into 
which  the  Sea  comes,  it  is  about  100  yards  long  and  50  broad, 
being  in  a  long  triangular  form  :  it  may  be  about  100  feet  deep, 
&  a  boat  can  go  into  it,  the  passage  being  short :  Nearer  the 
house,  close  to  the  sea  cliff,  is  a  high  rocky  small  island  with 
two  tops,  one  is  joyned  to  the  other  by  a  very  curious  natural 
bridge  ;*  Here  the  Gulls  and  other  sea  birds  breed,  and  make  a 
beautifull  appearance  when  they  fly  about  the  rocks :  The 
young  of  some  of  them  are  good  Food,  and  the  Country  people 
feed  on  their  Eggs.  Three  miles  to  the  South,  is  a  Cave  in 
which  there  are  curious  Stalactites,2  and  tho1  of  the  Alabaster 
kind,  there  are  some  in  small  ramifications  like  those  which  are 
formed  by  droppings  from  freestone.  Inland  they  have  here 
a  red  granite,  but  not  of  so  good  a  colour  as  that  of  Peter  Head. 

The  Earl  gave  me  a  piece  of  red  Jasper  which  is  divided  by 
spars,  something  in  the  manner  of  the  Ludus  Helmontii,  it  is 
about  2  inches  in  Diameter  &  was  found  in  the  middle  of  one 
of  these  Stones.  His  Lordship  also  gave  me  a  petrification  of 
the  Cave  with  a  pidgeon's  Egg  in  it,  being  a  Stalagmite  formed 
by  the  water  dropping  on  the  Egg. 

At  Frazerburgh  is  an  old  Castle,3  and  between  it  and  Peter- 
head,  is  a  very  fine  rid  of  ten  miles,  four  or  five  of  which  is 
over  beautifull  Downs.  Kynairds  head  must  be  Taixalorum 
Promontorium  of  the  New  Map,  &  Taizalum  of  Ptolemy. 
— I  am,  &c. 

1  Bullers  of  Buchan.  The  Pot  of  Buller's  Buchan.  The  Rock  of  Dunbuy. 
The  Bow  of  Pitwartlachie.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson  was  entertained  at  Slains 
Castle,  and  in  his  own  graphic  way  describes  the  castle  and  the  Buller  of  Buchan. 
Vide  Joiimey  to  West.  Islands  Scot.,  1773. 

3  Dropping  Cave,  or  the  White  Cave  of  Slains.  3  Cairnbulg. 


SLAINS,  ELLON,  OLD  MELDRUM.  199 


LETTER  XL. 

ABERDEEN,  Ag*e  2,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  first  of  August  I  set  out  in  Lord 
Errors  postchaise,  and  crossed  near  his  Lordship's  house  a 
stream,  which  soon  falls  into  another,  on  each  side  of  which 
stream  there  is  a  most  beautifull  Kitchen  Garden  on  the  ground 
which  rises  gently  on  each  side.  This  river  is  placed  at  Bow- 
ness  in  Dorrefs  Map  five  miles  North  of  Slanes ;  we  came  in 
eight  computed  miles  through  the  same  kind  of  country  eight 
miles  in  the  whole  to  Ellen1  a  small  town  on  the  river  Ythan, 
supposed  to  be  the  Ituna  of  the  New  Map  close  to  which  town 
Lord  Aberdeen  has  a  large  old  House,2  and  a  great  plantation 
of  firr  trees :  There  was  a  Cross  match  in  this  family  with  the 
late  Duke  of  Gordon,  the  Dowager  Dutchess  being  Sister  to 
the  Earl,  and  he  married  to  the  Duke  of  Gordon's  sister.3 

We  crossed  the  river  and  came  to  Pitmedden,  Sr  Wm 
Seaton's  House  where  there  is  a  quarry  of  Marble  resembling 
Cipolino  ;  to  the  South  is  an  old  Castle  with  good  improvements 
about  it ;  it  belongs  to  ... 

Between  the  Ythan  and  the  Don  a  black  grey  Granite  of 
small  grains  abounds,  and  between  the  latter  and  the  Dee  a 
very  light  grey  granite  with  large  white  spots. 

We  came  to  the  road  from  Banff  to  Aberdeen ;  and  in  a 
mile  (nine  miles  in  the  whole  from  Ellen)  to  old  Meldron,4  the 
Country  of  the  Urquharts;  here  is  a  great  market  for  yarn 
stockings  from  8d  to  5  shillings  a  pair.  It  is  a  small  town. 
We  passed  near  the  field  of  battle  fought5  in  1411.  And  crossed 

1  Ellon.  2  Udny  Castle. 

3  William,  second  Earl  of  Aberdeen,  married,  for  his  third  wife,  Anne,  daughter 
of  Alexander,  second  Duke  of  Gordon ;  while  his  daughter,  Catharine,  by  his 
second  marriage  with  Susan,  daughter  of  John,  Duke  of  Athole,  married  Cosmo, 
third  Duke  of  Gordon,  and  son  of  Alexander,  second  Duke.  Thus  the  Earl 
married  his  son-in-law's  sister.  4  Old  Meldrum. 

5  The  battle  of  Harlaw.  See  Inverurie  and  the  Earldom  of  the  Garioch,  a 
Topographical  and  Historical  Account  of  the  Garioch  to  the  Revolution  Settlement, 
by  John  Davidson,  D.D.,  1878. 


200  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

the  .  .  .  1  which  falls  into  the  Don  we  came  to  Inverury, 
and  saw  to  the  East  Kintore,  both  royal  boroughs,  tho'  poor 
Villages :  Near  the  former  a  battle  was  fought  in  1309  between 
Robert  Bruce  and  .  .  .  2  the  camp  of  the  enemy  was  on 
the  hill  above  Kintore  the  latter  gives  title  to  the  Earl  of  Kin- 
tore,  which  title  and  estate  will  come  to  Lord  Marischal,  lately 
Ambassador  in  Spain  from  the  King  of  Prussia,  and  Governor 
of  Neuschatel  at  present  in  England,  his  attainder  being  taken 
off  but  his  title  not  restored.  He  is  next  heir  to  the  present 
Lord  of  Kintore  who  is  lunatic.  The  Family  Seat,  Keith  Hall, 
is  near  the  town  where  the  fields  appear  in  a  very  beautifull 
manner  between  the  firr  trees. 

At  Inverury  we  came  into  the  road  from  Elgin  to  Aber- 
deen, but  soon  leaving  it,  we  travelled  westward,  &  passed  by 
Keminay3  a  seat  of  the  Burnets ;  the  famous  Bishop  of  Sarum 
being  of  the  family  of  ...  towards  Aberdeen,  and  his 
father  was  one  of  the  Lords  of  Session.4 

We  came  by  several  plantations  of  firr  trees  on  the  hills  to 
Monymusk  the  Seat  of  Sr  Archibald  Grant  a  gentleman  I  was 
desirous  of  seeing,  as  he  is  very  curious  in  all  the  Branches  of 
Natural  History,  &  has  a  considerable  collection  in  that  way 
as  well  as  in  English  and  Scotch  Coins.  He  is  also  a  very  great 
improver5  in  the  farm  and  garden :  About  two  miles  from  his 
house  to  the  west  he  has  made  a  fine  plantation  ;  first  you  come 
into  an  orchard,  then  to  an  avenue  of  firrs  with  parterres  on 
each  side :  there  is  also  a  pleasant  walk  by  the  river ;  and  the 
hills  to  the  south  are  covered  with  trees :  on  the  Mountain  to 
the  west  an  open  Arcade  is  formed  in  Wood  which  still  beautifyes 
the  Scene.  The  Mountain  called  Benachie6  (mtn  of  ye  Pap)  has 
a  high  top  on  which  they  find  Chrystal ;  They  find  also  Iron  Ore 
on  Kern  William7  which  yields  twelve  and  a  half  out  of  twenty : 
1  Ury.  2  The  battle  of  Barra,  between  Bruce  and  the  Comyns. 

3  The  family  of  Burnett  have  possessed  Kemnay  since  1 688. 

'  Mind  Kemnay's  seat,  how  beautifully  placed, 
With  shady  woods  and  flowery  gardens  graced.' — Don  :  a  Poem,  1655. 

4  Burnett  of  Leys.     Gilbert  Burnett,  the  author  of  the  History  of  His  Oion 
Titnes,  and  son  of  Robert  Burnett  of  Crimond,  afterwards  Lord  Crimond. 

5  See  Paper  on  Monymusk  Improvements,  Spalding  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  ii. 

6  Bennochie  is  the  mountain  referred  to  in  the  song — 

'  I  wish  I  were  whaur  Gadie  rins, 
At  the  back  of  Bennochie. ' 

7  Cairn  William. 


INVERURY,  MONYMUSK,  ABERDEEN.        201 

About  ten  miles  to  the  West  on  a  mountain  called  Noth1 
are  all  the  signs  of  a  Volcano  from  the  burnt  stones  and 
Cinders  which  appear  on  it,  and  on  Kern  Vorn,2  They  have 
brown  chrystals.  I  saw  one  which  was  almost  an  entire  pillar 
and  is  about  four  inches  in  Diameter.  They  find  a  few 
yellow,  and  harder  than  common  Chrystal,  and  some  of  other 
colours. 

The  Parish  Church  of  Monimusk  was  the  Church  of  the 
Augustinian  Canons  regular  of  St.  Andrews.  This  Priory  was 
built  by  Gilchrist  Earl  of  Mar  in  the  reign  of  William  the 
Lyon,  and  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary ;  it  was  annexed  by 
James  6th  in  1617  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Dunblane  ;  The  Church 
appears  to  have  been  much  ruined,  but  is  now  in  service  and 
the  Saxon  Arch  remains  leading  to  the  Chancel  supported  by 
Semicircular  pilasters.  The  Convent  is  entirely  destroyed  and 
was  within  the  enclosure  of  Sr  Archibald^  Demesne. 

On  the  2d  in  the  Evening  I  came  12  miles  to  Aberdeen  great 
part  of  the  way  in  sight  of  that  river3  which  forms  Lough  Skene, 
and  falls  into  the  Dee  on  which  Aberdeen  is  pleasantly  situated 
near  the  Sea,  being  a  tolerable  harbour,  into  which  the  Ships 
come  up  under  the  Castle,  almost  close  to  the  town  : 

The  Dee  is  the  ancient  Deva,  and  the  town  the  ancient 
Devana  Texalorum :  From  the  Spey  river  to  this  river  being 
the  Country  of  the  Texali : 

The  New  Town  was  burnt  by  the  English  in  [1336]  in  the 
Disputes  between  Bruce  and  Baliol,  and  when  it  was  rebuilt  it 
was  called  the  New  Town.  The  other  town  which  seems  to 
owe  its  rise  to  the  Cathedral  being  founded  there  was  then  called 
the  old  town :  The  New  Town  is  about  half  a  mile  long  from 
North  to  South,  &  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad,  finely  situated  on 
an  Eminence  which  ends  near  the  Harbour  &  taking  in  the 
Gardens  on  the  side  of  the  hills  is  not  less  than  two  miles  in 
Circumference  ;  The  Castle  hill  is  on  the  East  Side,  from  which 
to  the  South  end  of  the  town  there  is  a  hanging  ground : 
Catharine  hill  is  to  the  South  which  has  its  name  from  an 

1  For  descriptions  of  those  vitreous  remains  on  the  Tap  o'  Noth,  see  article  on 
'Vitrified  Fort,1  by  Prof.  Pirie,  in  Trans,  of  Aberdeen  Philosophical  Society; 
also  '  Notes  for  the  Excursion  of  the  Aberdeen  Phil.  Soc.  to  Kildrummy  Castle 
and  Tap  of  Noth,  27th  June  1855,'  by  Alexander]  Qruickshank,  LL.D.]. 

-  Cairngorm,  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  rock  crystals. 

3  A  small  stream  or  burn. 


202  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

ancient  Chapel :  The  rest  of  the  town  is  built  on  a  long  hill l 
with  fine  falling  ground  on  each  side  of  it. 

St.  Nicholas  Church2  is  on  the  West  side,  under  which  are 
some  old  Chapels  turned  into  a  plumber's  shop  ;  It  is  a  plain 
Gothic  building  with  round  pillars  and  short  Capitals  of  leaves. 
To  the  west  end  of  it  they  have  added  a  New  Church  in  the 
Pallatian  Style  designed  by  Gibbs  a  native  of  this  town,  being 
built  with  the  pediment  and  half  pediment  on  each  side  on  the 
site  of  the  body  of  the  Church;  it  is  of  freestone  from  the 
Frith  of  Forth  ;  the  foundation  being  of  the  grey  Granite.  It 
cost  ,£5000  and  would  have  cost  more  if  it  had  been  built  of  that 
granite  as  it  is  so  hard  to  work.  The  pillars  within  are  solid  square 
pillars  covered  with  pilasters  of  the  Doric  order  with  galleries  all 
round.  At  the  west3  end  is  the  seat  of  the  Magistrate,  and 
both  the  Churches  are  very  well  fitted  up  within.  They  have  a 
sermon  every  Tuesday  and  Thursday  at  8  in  the  morning. 

There  is  a  congregation  of  Seceders,  two  of  nonjurors,  and 
one  of  papists  who  meet  privately  in  the  night.  The  English 
Church  have  two  Chapels,  one  is  the  Chapel  of  Trinity  house  ; 
The  other  St.  Paul's,  built  on  the  London  model,  with  galleries 
supported  by  Doric  pillars,  the  pillars  above  are  of  the  lonick 
order,  there  is  a  Cupola  or  small  Dome  in  the  Middle,  it  is 
decently  furnished,  and  they  have  a  congregation  of  1000 
people,  the  other  being  about  500.  Supported  only  by  the 
collections ;  but  at  St.  Paul's  two  ministers  have  £60  a  year 
each  ;  which  the  people  make  up  by  the  collections  as  at  most 
other  places  in  Scotland. 

The  Trinity  house  now  called  either  the  Traders4  Hospital 
or  Beadhouse  is  said  to  have  been  the  palace  of  William  the 
Lyon  and  Alexander  the  2d,  the  former  having  founded  here  a 
Convent  of  red  friars  or  Trinitarians :  It  now  serves  for  the 

1  The  Gallowgate. 

2  For  a  lengthy  account  of  this  Church  see  The  Selected  Writings  of  John 
Ramsay,  ALA.,  with  Memoir  and  Notes,  by  Alexander  Walker   (his  literary 
executor);  Portrait  and  Illustrations  by  George  Reid,  R.S.A.  ;  Aberdeen  1871. 
Ye  Paroch   Kirk  of  Sanct  Nicolas  of  Aberdeen,  by  Alexander  Walker,  1876 
(privately  printed).     Article  and  Illustration,  '  St.  Nicholas  Church  and  Church- 
yard,' by  A.  M.  Munro,  in  Scottish  Notes  and  Queries,  vol.  i.,  July  1887. 

8  Should  be  east  end. 

4  See  Merchant  and  Craft  Guilds,  a  History  of  the  Aberdeen  Incorporated 
Trades,  by  Ebenezer  Bain,  in  the  press. 


ABERDEEN.  203 

Companies  of  the  Town  ;  They  have  a  large  hall1  in  it  furnished 
with  old  wooden  Chairs  curiously  carved ;  Beyond  this  in  the 
fields  was  the  Carmelite  Convent,  of  which  there  are  no  remains  ; 
it  was  founded  in  1350  by  Philip  de  Arbuthnot  ancestor  to  the 
present  Viscount,  and  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 

On  the  site  of  the  Dominican  Convent  is  built  Gordon's 
School  or  Hospital2  as  it  is  called  for  sons  of  Burgers  and 
Tradesmen ;  above  40  are  lodged  clothed,  dieted,  taught  and 
apprenticed.  The  founder  raised  his  fortune  and  left  it  all  to 
found  this  house,  which  is  a  handsome  building  in  a  very  fine 
situation ;  adjoyning  to  it  is  the  Latin  School  and  further  out 
of  town  a  large  building  for  an  infirmary. 

The  Grey  friars  or  Observantines  was  on  the  spot  of  the 
Marischal  College,  and  the  Church  remains  entire ;  it  was 
founded  by  the  citizens  of  Aberdeen  about  1450.  And  was 
afterwards  called  the  Marischal  College,  as  it  was  founded  under 
James  the  6th  at  the  expence  of  the  Earl  Marischal.3 

The  fine  oblong  square  called  the  Cross  is  from  142  feet  to 
158  feet  broad  and  near  a  furlong  in  length,  &  is  for  the  most 
part  well  built,  on  one  side  is  a  grand  old  house  which  belonged 
to  the  Earl  Marischal ;  near  opposite  to  it  is  the  town  house 
and  the  Jayl  with  a  tower  over  it ;  and  answering  to  the  Town 
house  is  a  fine  inn,  all  which  are  built  of  the  grey  granite. 
There  is  a  handsome  Conduit4  in  the  square,  consisting  of  16 
sides  adorned  with  pillars  which  support  a  sort  of  Entablature, 
in  the  freeze  of  which  are  Medaliones  of  the  late  Kings,  and  in 
the  middle  above  is  a  pillar,  if  I  mistake  not,  of  the  Corinthian 
Order,  finely  carved  and  crowned  with  a  gilt  capital :  beyond 
that  is  a  part  of  the  Square  paved  with  broad  stones,  which 
serves  as  by  way  of  Exchange  for  the  Citizens  to  walk  on  : 

It  is  a  great  pity  that  a  town  which  is  so  finely  situated, 
should  be  so  ill  laid  out  in  other  parts  as  to  its  streets ;  It  was 

1  The  hall  was  abandoned  in  1847  for  the  handsome  building  at  the  south-east 
corner  of  Union  Bridge,  erected  by  the  seven  Incorporated  Trades,  which  are 
now  very  wealthy. 

2  See  Robert  Gordon,  his  Hospital  and  his  College,  1886,  by  Alex.  Walker. 
In  recent  years  the   scope  of  the  Endowment  has  been  much  enlarged.     See 
Endowment  Commissioners'  Report. 

3  George,  fifth  Earl  in  1593. 

4  The  Cross  in  Castle  Street,  the  finest  and  best  preserved  Cross  in  Scotland. 
See  The  Book  of  Bon- Accord. 


204  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

made  a  Royal  Borough1  in  878  by  King  Gregory,  and  King 
William  in  1165  enlarged  its  privileges.  It  is  computed  that 
there  are  about  9000  souls  in  this  town,  and  in  the  old  town 
and  in  the  Suburbs  to  both  about  six  thousand. 

They  show  in  a  Nich  made  in  the  wall  of  a  house,  an  alto 
relief2  of  the  famous  Champion  Wallis  in  Armour,  and  with  a 
sword  in  his  hand. 

They  have  here  a  great  Export  of  Knit  Stockings,  Oat  Meal, 
barley,  Salmon,  and  some  pickled  pork,  but  not  so  much  as  for- 
merly. They  make  very  fine  Knit  Stockings  of  all  prices,  those 
that  are  very  large,  even  to  five  Guineas  a  pair.  They  have  good 
Shops  to  supply  the  Country  round  to  a  considerable  distance, 
especially  to  the  North.  And  the  University  spend  a  considerable 
sum  of  money  here,  there  being  in  both  Colleges  besides  professors 
about  two  hundred  Students.  Ships  of  100  Ton  come  up  to  the 
Quay  and  of  200  into  the  harbour.  The  old  Town  is  near  a  Mile 
Distant  from  the  New,  but  most  of  the  way  is  between  houses. 

All  the  Country  round  the  Town  is  extremely  pleasant,  being 
uneven  ground,  and  covered  with  Corn  or  garden  Stuff  and 
there  are  several  Citizens  houses  within  a  mile  or  two,  of  the 
place :  The  old  Town  doubtless  owes  its  site  to  the  Bishops' 
See  and  the  College.  The  former  was  first  founded  at  Mortlick3 
in  1010  by  King  Malcolm  on  his  Victory  there  over  the  Danes 
as  observed  before.  Bp.  Nectanus  in  1106  removed  the  See  to 
old  Aberdeen  and  it  was  enriched  by  King  David  ;  Bp.  Henry 
de  Cheyn4  having  taken  part  with  the  Cummins,  in  the  dispute 
about  the  Crown  on  their  being  worsted  fled  to  England,  but 
when  things  were  settled  he  was  very  acceptable  to  Robert 
Bruce,  and  out  of  the  arrears  due  the  See,  built  the  fine  Gothic 
bridge  of  one  arch  over  the  Don  72  feet  wide  and  60  high : 
Bp.  Gordon5  built  the  fine  bridge  of  seven  arches  over  the  Dee 

1  A  rather  apocryphal  antiquity.     The  probable  date  of  the  earliest  charter  is 
1179.     The  first  charter,  granted  by  William  the  Lion,  is  to  be  reproduced  in 
photo-lithography,  as  the  frontispiece  to  the  Burgh  Charters  which  the  Town 
Council  are  printing  under  the  editorship  of  Mr.  P.  J.  Anderson,  M.  A.,  LL.B. 

2  An  old  unknown  recumbent  figure  set  on  end,   certainly  not  Sir  William 
Wallace.     The  name  Wallace  Tower  is  a  corruption  for  the  Well-house. 

3  The  tradition  of  the  earlier  bishopric  at  Murthlach  is  now  discredited  as 
without  historical  support. 

4  Henry  Cheyne,  nephew  of  John  Comyn. 

3  The  Bridge  of  Dee  was  finished  by  Bishop  Dunbar,  not  Gordon. 


ABERDEEN. 


205 


which    had   been  designed   by  Bp.   Elphinston  :    Bp.   Patrick 
Forbes  of  1618  writ  a  comment  on  the  Revelations  : 

The  body  only  of  the  Cathedral1  remains,  which  is  a  very 
plain  Gothic  building  with  two  Towers  crowned  with  Steeples 
at  the  West  End,  built  very  much  in  the  Castle  fashion.  The 
Arms  of  the  Bishop  and  benefactors  are  blazoned  in  the  Soffit 
with  their  Names,  and  Inscriptions2  round  as  in  the  freeze,  which 
together  with  the  Monumental  inscriptions  are  here  inserted. 

(North  Side.) 

I  Nectanus  II  Eduardus  III  Mattheus  de  Kynenmond  IIII  Johannes  Prior  de 
Calco  Vto  Adam  Clericus  Regis  Willmi  VI  Matheus  Cancellarius  Gilbertus 
Strivelin  VII  Radulphus  Lambley  VIII  Petrus  Ramsay  IX"  Richardus  Potcocht 
X"  Hugo  Bentrame  XI?  Henricus  Chenie  XIp  Alexander  de  Kynenmond  XI  Ip 
Willms  de  la  Deyne  XIIIp  Johannes  de  Raite  XV?  Alexander  Kyninmond 
XVI?  Adam  de  Tyninghame  XVIJ?  Gilbertus  Greynlaw  XVIIJ?  Henricus  Lych- 
toun  XIX?  Ingeramus  Lynclesay  XX  Thomas  Spens  XXI?  Robertus  Blacater 
XXIJ  Willms  Elphynstoun  Universitatis  et  Collegii  Conditor  XXIIjc  Alex- 
ander Gordon  XXIIII?  Gavinus  Dumbar  XXV?  Willms  Steuart  XXVI?  Willms 
Gordon  XXIJ?  .  .  . 

(East  Side.) 


Imperatorie  Majestatis 
Fracorum  Regis 
Hispanorum  Regis 
Regis  Anglorum 
Regis  Danorum 
Regis  Hugarie 
Regis  Portugalie 
Regis  Aragonie 
Regis  Cipre 
Regis  Navarre 
Regis  Sicilie 
Regis  Polonie 
Regis  Bohemie 
Duels  Burbonie 
Ducis  Gilrie 
Veteris  Aberdonie 


Pont.  Rom. 
Sanctiandr  Archepi 
Glasguen  Episcopi 
Dunkelden  Episcopi 
Gavini  Aberdonen 
Moravien  Episcopi 
Rossen  Episcopi 
Brechien  Episcopi 
Cathanen  Episcopi 
Candide  Case  Episcopi 
Dumblanen  Episcopi 
Lismoren  Episcopi 
Orchaden  Episcopi 
Sodorensis  Episcopi 
Prioris  Sancti  Andr 
Almehs  Universitatis 


Regie  Celsitudinis 
Sanctissime  Margrete 
Albanie  Ducis 
Marchiarum  Comitis 
Moravie  Comitis  Radulphi 
Duglasie  Comitis 
Angusie  Comitis 
Marrie  Comitis 
Suthurlandie  Comitis 
Crafurdie  Comitis 
Huntlie  Comitis 
Archadie  Comitis 
Erolie  Comitis 
Mariscally  Comitis 
Bochtuile  Comitis 
Nove  Aberdonie 


(South  Side.) 

Murchtlakeensem  et  Aberdonen  ecclesias  Cathedrales  respective  Condidere 
pro  quibus  in  hac  sacra  Ede  fundati  obligantur  orare  Macolmus  Kennedi  qui 
Murchtlakeensem  ecclesiam  pris  Constituit  anno  Mil0  quarto  Cui  Successit 
Duncanus  Cui  Macolmus  Canmoir  Anno  M°  lvito  Cui  Edgarus  Cui  Alexander 
Cui  David  Scus  anno  M°  C°  xxiiij  qui  Murchtlakeensem  Ecclesiam  ad  Aber- 
doniam  transtulit  Cui  Macolmus  Virgo  Cui  Willms  Cui  Alexander  IIdus  Cui 
Alexander  3°  Cui  Robertus  Bruce  Anno  M°  CC°  quadge0  VI°  Cui  David  Bruce 
Cui  Robertus  11°  Cui  Robertus  IIP  [Cui  Jacob  I  Cui  Jacob  II  Cui  Jacobus  3 
Cui  Jacobus  IIII  Cui  Jacobus  V  Cui  Maria  Regina], 

1  Among  the  publications  which  the  New  Spalding  Club,  of  Aberdeen,  has 
undertaken,  is  a  monograph  on  the  emblazoned  ceiling  of  St.  Machar's  Cathedral, 
with  coloured  reproductions  of  the  escutcheons  and  other  illustrations,  edited  by 
Principal  Geddes  and  Mr.  Peter  Duguid. 

2  The  inscriptions  were  copied  by  Mr.  James  Paterson,  master  of  the  ancient 
music  school,  Old  Aberdeen,  and  appear  in  Kennedy's  Annals  of  Aberdeen^ 
1818,  vol.  ii.  p.  341.     In  the  main  Dr.  Pococke  and  Mr.  Paterson  agree,  but 
neither  is  correct. 


206  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Epitaphs  on  Monuments  in  the  Cathedral  Church  at 

Old  Aberdeen. 

Hie  jacet  bone  Memorie  Henricus  de  Lychtoun1  utriusqj  juris 
Doctor  qui  ad  Ecclesie  Moravien  regimen  olim  esset  assumptus  ubi 
Septennio  prefuit  demura  ad  istam  translatus  fuit  in  qua  xviu  annis 
rexit  presentisq,  Ecclesie  fabricam  a  choro  [Statione]  seorsum  uscfc 
ad  summitatera  parietum  plene  astruxit  A.D.  M°CCCCXL. 

Hie  Jacet  Nobilis  domina  Joneta  de  Lychtoun 
de  Mater  domini  II.  ecclesie 

hujus  Episcopi  qui  obiit  quinto  die  februarii 
An0  d1  MCCCCXXXVII)  etatis  sue  Ixxxxiiii 
Hie  Jacet  Nobilis  vir  Walterus  2 

canonicus  licentiatus 

qui  donavit  xxl  annuatim  Capelariis  in  choro  servi- 
entibus  pro  Missa  in  vi  ferie  Celebranda     .     .     . 
qui  obiit  .    .    .   die  Julij     .      .      .      anime  propiciate  Duom  amem 
Duodecim  pauperibus  domum  hanc 
Reverendus  pater  Gavinus  Dumbar3  hujus 
Alme  sedis  quondam  pontifex  edificari  Jussit 
Anno  a  Christo  Nato  1532  6E12  AfiSA 

Isthuc  Oraturus  [Deum]  Memor  precor  sis  anime  salutis  Gavini 
Dunbar  Alme  Sedis  Aberdonensis  quondam  pontificis  hujus  Cellule 
pauperum  fundatoris  qui  apud  Sanct.  Andream  Nature  debitum 
persolvit  Sexto  Idus  Martij  Anno  a  Christo  Nato  trigesimo  primo 
sesq}  Millessimo.  At  homines  quibus  alimenta  dedit  orare  tenentur. 

Gloria  Episcopi  est  pauperum  opibus  providere. 

Ignominia  Sacerdotis  est  propriis  Studere  divitiis 

Patientia  pauperum  non  peribit  in  finem. 

There  is  a  fine  carved  pulpit  of  wood  in  the  Church  of  the 
old  town  :  A  small  part  of  the  cross  isle  remains,  in  which  are 
the  tombs  of  some  Bishops :  There  was  a  large  enclosure  for  the 

1  In  the  north  side,  or  Saint  John's  aisle,  are  the  remains  of  the  tomb  of  Bishop 
Lychtoun,  who  died  in  the  year  1440.     Kennedy's  Annals  of  Aberdeen,  1818, 
vol.  ii.  p.  345. 

2  There  is  an  effigy  neatly  cut  in  stone  of  a  prebendary,  in  a  recumbent 
position,  with  an  inscription  much  defaced.     Kennedy's  Annals,  Aberdeen,  ii. 
346.     Hie  jacet  honorabilis  vir  magister  Walterus  Ydil —  |  cancellarius  cathen 
et  Brechynen  canonic  et  licenciat  |  in  decretis  qui  donavit  xx  sol.   annuatim 
cappellarius  in  choro  |  mitibus  pro  missa  in  VI  feria  celebranda  qui  obiit  II  | 
die  Julij  anno  sexagesimo  octavo  cujus  anime  propi  |  ciatur  Deus.     Amen.     See 
Orem's  Old  Aberdeen  for  above  inscription  and  English  translations. 

3  For  Sketches  of  the  Tomb  of  Bishop  Gavin  Dunbar,  by  Mr.  James  C.  Watt, 
see  Edinburgh  Architectural  Association's  Sketch  Book,  1887,  vol.  i.  new  series. 


ABERDEEN.  207 

houses  and  gardens  of  the  Ecclesiasticks :  The  Bishop's  house 
was  at  the  East  End  of  the  Church,  but  there  are  not  the  least 
remains  of  it. 

At  some  little  distance  to  the  South  of  the  Close  of  the 
Cathedral  Bishop  Elphistoun  founded  a  College,  called  the 
Kings  College,  but  it  now  commonly  goes  by  the  name  of  the 
old  College ;  There  is  a  handsome  Church  belonging  to  it ;  The 
top  of  the  tower  is  adorned  with  a  Crown,  and  from  the  ground 
near  Gordon's  hospital  it  appears  like  an  Ornamental  Arch  on 
a  hill,  no  part  of  the  tower  being  seen  :  The  Church  is  an  ob- 
long square  and  the  body  is  divided  from  the  Quire  by  a  fine 
Carved  Skreen  and  Gallery,  with  a  pulpit  in  it,  and  under  that 
are  two  Carved  Seats ;  on  the  South  Side  is  a  small  Gallery  as 
for  Musick  and  Covered  with  a  Carpet ;  The  Stalls  of  the  Quire 
are  of  the  same  beautifull  Gothic  carved  Work ;  Toward  the 
upper  end  is  the  founders  raised  tomb,  without  inscription, 
made  of  plain  black  stone :  and  here  also  is  the  Monument  of 
Bishop  Scougal's  Son  ;  who  writ  the  treatise  called  The  life  of 
God  in  the  soul  of  man.  He  and  his  father  the  Bishop,  left 
their  books  to  the  Library.  This  Church  is  not  used  except 
for  giving  degrees  :  In  the  room  where  they  hear  Morning  and 
Evening  prayer,  is  a  large  desk  hung  with  a  fine  Carpet  in  which 
the  King's  and  Bishop  Elphinston's  arms  are  worked  :  They  have 
a  very  handsome  hall  where  the  Students  eat  who  live  all  in 
the  College,  as  they  do  likewise  in  the  New  College  :  They  have 
a  good  Library,  in  which  are  some  M.SS.  as  Hygini  Chronicon 
translated  into  Latin  by  Trevisa,  Ovid's  Metamorphosis  and 
some  Church  books  :  They  have  also  a  printed  book  in  folio  with 
the  Initial  letters  illuminated,  the  Type  is  not  very  clean  ;  it  is 
Plutarchs  lives  translated  into  Latin  by  Arretinus,  some  other 
modern  lives  are  added  to  it,  &  there  is  no  mention  made  of  the 
printer.  Doctor  Frasier  whose  picture  is  in  the  Library,  was 
a  great  benefactor  by  building  some  parts  of  the  College,  as 
mentioned  in  an  inscription;  and  here  is  Johnston's1  picture,  the 
rival  of  Buchanan  in  the  translation  of  the  psalms  into  latin. 

In  the  New  College  there  is  likewise  a  hall  to    eat   in,  A 
i  Dr.   Arthur  Johnston,  M.D.     See  Chambers's  Lives  of  Eminent  Scotsmen; 
also  George  Jamesone,  the  Scottish    Vandyck,  by  John   Bulloch,   1885,  pp.  61, 
100,  119. 

'  The  first  in  painting,  Jamesone  shall  shine, 
As  Johnston  does  in  poetry  divine.' 


208  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

library,  And  a  room  for  giving  degrees  hung  with  pictures,  and 
the  Names  of  those  gentlemen  of  fortune  who  have  taken  their 
degrees,  and  contributed  something  to  the  College.1  In  the 
Library  they  have  some  Church  M.SS.  and  a  Hebrew  Bible  with 
points  finely  writ,  of  what  age  I  know  not,  but  by  the  Orna- 
ments it  must  have  been  since  Arts  revived.  The  Professors  of 
both  Colleges  were  so  polite,  as  to  come  in  a  body  and  conduct 
me  to  their  Colleges  and  the  Cathedral,  and  in  the  New  College 
I  saw  Keith's  Curious  Collection  of  Silver  Scotch  Coin  which  he 
gave  to  the  College. 

The  following  are  the  Professors  in  each  College,  those  who 
are  marked*  I  had  the  pleasure  to  see. 

List  of  the  Members  of  King's  College  Aberdeen. 

*  Doctor  John  Chalmers  Principal. 

Mr  John  Lumsden — Professor  of  Divinity. 
Dr  James  Catanach  Professor  of  Civil  Law. 

*  Dr  John  Gregory    Professor  of  Medicine. 

Mr  Alexander   Burnett    Sub-Principal    &    Professor   of 

Philosophy. 
Mr  Thorn8  Gordon  Professor  of  Humanity. 

Mr  Roderick  Macleod  ),-,,»  ,.  ™  ., 

...  ,  ,    ™          T»  •  i  o  r  Proiessors  of  Philosophy. 

*  Mr  Thorn8  Reid3          j  ^  J 

Mr  John  Leslie  Professor  of  Greek. 

Mr  George  Gordon  Professor  of  Oriental  Languages. 

List  of  the  Members  oftlie  Marischal  College. 

*  Mr  George  Campbell  Principal. 

*  Mr  Alexander  Gerard  Professor  of  Divinity. 
Mr.  Francis  Skene  Professor  of  Philosophy. 

*  Mr.  William  Kennedy  Professor  of  Greek. 
Vacant  )  Professor  of  Philosophy. 
Vacant  J  Professor  of  Philosophy. 

Dr.  Alexander  Donaldson  Professor  of  Medicine  and  also 

of  Oriental  languages. 
Mr.  John  Stuart  Professor  of  Mathematics. 

Professor  Gerard  has  published  a  fine  treatise  on  Taste,  and 

1  Selections  from  the  Records  of  Marischal  College,  1593-1860, — Fasti 
Academice  Marischallana, — by  Mr.  P.  J.  Anderson,  is  expected  to  be  an  early 
volume  of  the  New  Spalding  Club.  2  Translated  to  Edinburgh  University. 

s  Translated  to  Glasgow  University  ;  author  of  Inquiry  into  the  Human  Mind. 


ABERDEEN.  209 

most  excellent  Sermon  on  the  influence  of  the  Pastoral  Office 
on  the  Character,  in  answer  to  Hume. 

Principal  Campbell  has  printed  some  sermons  and  Professor 
Gregory  is  the  15th  of  his  family  who  have  been  professors, 
almost  all  of  them  of  Astronomy. 

In  "the  New  College  in  the  Town  I  saw  the  following  inscrip- 
tion found  on  the  Roman  Wall  l  — 


IM 

TAELIO  MAORI 


Ava 


From  the  Cathedral  I  went  to  Seaton,  Mr.  Middleton's, 
which  was  part  of  the  Bishop's  Demesne.  It  is  a  most  delight- 
full  place,  the  hanging  ground  about  it  being  very  fine.  The 
entrance  is  by  a  Walk  with  a  hedge  of  Elm  on  each  side, 
through  which  are  some  Vistaes  opened  into  the  Meadows  of 
the  Dairy,  and  from  thence  to  a  branch  of  the  Don,  which  is 
here  very  considerable,  also  a  view  of  the  house,  and  of  the 
hanging  ground  covered  with  wood  to  the  right  and  left  :  Over 
the  latter  is  a  Mount  planted  with  firrs  on  which  is  a  Dome 
supported  with  six  pillars  that  belongs  to  Hermit  hall  a  little 
tower  to  the  right,  the  ground  is  adorned  with  flowering  shrubs, 
and  flowers  on  each  side  of  the  Walks,  there  being  a  flat  spot 
below,  through  which  the  road  winds  to  the  house  from  the 
grand  entrance  to  the  East,  on  the  other  side  of  which  are 
meadows  :  There  is  a  hermit's  Cell  on  the  hill  to  the  North  from 

1  '  A  stone  of  the  legionary  class,  measuring  38^  x  34  inches.  It  was  dis- 
covered at  least  150  years  ago,  and  was  for  a  long  time  in  the  possession  of  the 
Keith  family,  at  Dunnottar  Castle,  near  Stonehaven  ;  it  subsequently  became  the 
property  of  Marischal  College,  Aberdeen,  whose  professors  presented  it  to  the 
University  of  Glasgow  in  the  year  1761.'  —  Stuart's  Caledonia  Romana,  1852, 
p.  364,  P  .  xv.  Also  Hubner's  Inscriptions  -Britanniae  Latinae,  1873,  P-  2O5- 

O 


210  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

which  there  is  a  walk  to  a  Kitchen  Garden,  and  a  little  beyond 
that  is  a  good  view  of  the  Gothic  Arch  over  the  River  Don. 
We  crossed  the  road  to  the  Arable  part  of  the  farm  which  is 
very  beautifull. 

I  saw  a  Print l  at  Aberdeen  relating  to  a  most  extraordinary 
event  which  happened  at  the  beginning  of  this  Century.  At 
St.  Andrews,  three  Students,  two  apprentices,  and  two  School- 
boys, took  a  boat,  went  on  the  Sea,  and  were  drove  out :  The 
people  of  St.  Andrews  could  get  no  boat  there,  or  at  Crail,  or 
in  any  other  place,  so  as  to  overtake  them,  they  saw  the  fishing 
boats,  but  the  fishermen  did  not  see  them.  They  went  out  on 
a  friday,  and  thus  climbed  up  on  rock  to  get  to  some  houses  for 
help,  and  came  into  Aberdeen  on  friday  following.  A  Bakers 
apprentice  had  taken  two  roles  in  his  pocket,  which  helped  to 
support  them.  And  the  father  of  one  of  the  lads  being  a  Silver 
Smith  in  Edingburgh,  had  the  Story  engraved  very  handsomely 
on  a  Copper  plate.  They  had  suffered  much  in  their  feet  and 
legs  by  the  Salt  water.  The  two  boys  were  carried  ashoar  alive, 
but  died  soon  after. 

The  Lord  Provost  of  Aberdeen  came  to  see  me,  and  would 
have  Engaged  me  to  dine  in  their  townhouse,  but  as  I  could 
not  stay,  they  insisted  on  my  supping  with  them,  and  pre- 
sented me  with  the  freedom2  of  the  town.  The  Managers  of 
the  Established  English  Church  also  Entertained  me  at  Dinner, 
in  Return  for  the  offices  I  had  performed  in  their  two  Churches. 
— I  am,  &c. 

1  This  print  is  preserved  in  the  Municipal  Buildings. 

2  Mr.  W.  Gordon,  advocate,  Town-Clerk,  Aberdeen,  has  been  successful  in 
finding  a  minute  recording  the  admission  of  Bishope  Pococke  as  an  honorary 
burgess    of  Aberdeen  (see  notes,  pp.  3,  47,   168,   182,   183,  253).     The  Lord 
Provost  was  John  Duncan  of  Mosstown. 

'  Aberdoniae  Quarto  die  Mensis  Augusti  Anno  Domini  1760,  In  praesentia 
Magistratuum. 

'  Quo  die  Reverendus  admodum  in  Christo  Pater  Richardus  Miseratione 
Divina,  Dominus  Episcopus  Ossoriensis,  Municeps  et  Frater  Guildae  praefati 
Burgi  de  Aberdeen,  In  deditissimi  amoris  et  affectus  ac  Eximae  observantiae 
Tesseram  quibus  dicti  Magistratus  ilium  amplectuntur,  Receptus  et  admissus  fuit. ' 

Thirteen  years  later  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson  was  presented  with  the  freedom  of 
the  city.  He  says — '  The  parchment  containing  the  record  of  admission  is,  with 
the  seal  appending,  fastened  to  a  riband,  and  worn  for  one  day  by  the  new 
citizen  in  his  hat.' — A  Journey  to  West.  Islands  of  Scot.,  1773.  When  Dr. 
Pococke  had  the  freedom  of  Glasgow  conferred  on  him  in  1747,  he  wore  the 
burgess  ticket  in  his  hat  (see  p.  4). 


ABERDEEN,  STONEHAVEN,  COWIE.          211 


LETTER  XLI. 

MONTROSE,  Aug**  the  6th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  5th  I  left  this  most  agreeable  place 
Aberdeen  alone,  which  I  had  not  been  for  above  seven  weeks.  In 
about  two  Engsh  Miles  I  came  to  the  Bridge  over  the  Dee,  and 
after  I  had  ascended  the  hill  for  about  a  mile,  I  had  a  fine  road 
through  a  very  stony  country  for  about  three  miles,  and  saw  the 
remains  of  a  small  Druid  temple,  and  a  mile  further  two  more 
near  each  other,  the  stones  are  about  four  feet  high. 

I  passed  by  a  Kern  and  came  in  twelve  miles  to  Stonehive,1  a 
small  well  built  town  of  about  150  families ;  I  remarked  in  the 
way  hither  first  red  granite  of  Small  red  grains  and  afterwards 
larger,  and  a  sort  of  firestone  in  uneven  veins  running  like  Cipo- 
lino :  The  small  rivers  fall  in  near  the  Town  in  this  bay,  and 
there  is  a  pier  into  which  a  ship  of  100  Ton  can  be  brought : 
If  in  bad  weather  they  miss  Peterhead  which  is  the  most  con- 
venient harbour  in  this  part  of  Scotland,  they  are  brought  in 
here,  of  which  the  pilots  make  considerable  profit :  They  have 
a  Salmon  fishery  and  catch  Sea  fish,  Especially  at  Cowie,  which 
they  lay  on  places  paved  with  stone  in  order  to  dry  them  with- 
out Salt :  They  Knit  Stockings,  and  have  some  linnen  manu- 
facture. There  is  an  English  Chapel  and  a  Congregation  of 
about  300  Persons  in  and  near  the  town,  for  it  was  the  Estate 
of  the  Earl  of  Marischal.  Barclay  a  quaker,  descendant  of  him 
who  writ  the  famous  Apology,  lives  near  this  place. 

On  the  Sea  cliff  about  a  mile  from  the  town  is  the  singular 
Castle  of  Dunnotter  2  which  belonged  to  the  Marischal  family : 
It  is  built  on  a  detatched  rock  of  large  pebbles  cemented  together ; 
the  Sea  does  not  come  to  the  West  side  of  it ;  but  it  might 
easily  be  sunk  so  as  to  make  it  a  wet  fossee  at  low  water.  The 

1  Stonehaven  or  Stanehive. 

2  From   its   situation   and  extent,  Dunnottar  Castle  forms  one   of  the  most 
majestic  ruins  in  Scotland.     Blind  Harry  has  immortalised  Wallace's  achieve- 
ment there,  when,  besieging  the  castle,  he  burnt  4000  Englishmen  in  it.     For 
several  views,  plans,  and  historical  sketch,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castellated 
Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887,  vol.  i.  pp.  562-573. 


212          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

ascent  is  very  steep  up  to  the  part  where  the  Wall  is  low  enough 
to  be  battered  to  any  purpose  from  a  level  on  the  opposite 
ground :  On  each  side  of  the  Entrance  is  an  arched  room 
together  with  some  other  rooms  from  which  there  is  an  ascent 
up  to  the  square  tower,  which  is  the  oldest  part ;  within  this  is 
a  head  of  rock  extending  to  the  South,  on  which  in  the  last 
Civil  War  they  had  a  battery  opposite  to  that  of  CromweFs  on 
the  other  hill,  which  we  saw  with  two  Embrasures  ;  To  the  East 
of  this  is  another  building  of  two  rooms  on  a  floor ;  and  beyond 
that  a  Room  with  a  large  Chimney  which  extends  the  whole 
breadth  of  it,  this  is  called  the  Mint  and  might  be  also  a  forge. 
And  in  the  middle  of  the  Court  there  is  an  Entire  house  as  if 
designed  for  a  part  of  the  family :  but  the  grand  and  most 
Modern  building  is  a  half  H  consisting  of  a  brewhouse,  bake- 
house, Kitchen  with  a  Chimney,  likewise  the  whole  breath  of  it ; 
above  is  a  grand  room,  a  Drawing  room  &  another  room  from 
which  to  the  South  there  is  a  gallery  which  extends  for  about 
100  feet  in  length  and  18  broad,  over  one  of  the  doors  to  a 
vault  is  this  inscription — .  .  .  Andrew  Barklay. 

This  Castle  did  belong  to  the  Crawford  family  who  Exchanged 
it  with  the  Earl  Marischal  for  a  Seat  in  Fife.1 

I  proceeded  through  a  fine  Corn  Country  to  Inver  Barvy,2 
Commonly  called  Barvy,  observing  an  old  Church  over  the  Sea 
Cliff  a  mile  North  of  the  town :  here  the  linnen  Manufacture 
begins  and  the  woolen  of  Stockings  ends :  The  linnen  Manu- 
factures to  the  North  being  mostly  of  Linnen  yarn  brought  from 
Banff  and  sent  as  before  mentioned  to  Nottingham  ;  This  is  a 
small  Royal  borough  under  Lord  Arbuthnot  who  lives  near : 
it  is  situated  on  an  eminence  over  the  bay  and  the  river  Barvy ; 
it  is  no  harbour,  and  they  have  only  two  or  three  boats  for  the 
Salmon  fishery,  which  is  considerable ;  We  saw  the  porpuses 
following  the  Salmon  half  a  league  from  the  Shoar. 

We  went  on  the  6th,  and  came  through  a  fine  Country  six 
miles  to  North  Esk  which  we  forded,  but  after  rain  it  is  a  rapid 
river  and  broad  ;  it  rises  out  of  the  Mountain  of  Benochieh  ; 3 
we  came  two  miles  to  Montrose  on  South  Esk  which  rises  out 

1  The  exchange  was  made  between  Lord  Lindsay  of  Byres,  and  Sir  William 
Keith,  about  1382-92,  for  Struthers  in  Fifeshire. 

2  Inverbervie.  3  See  note  6,  p.  200. 


BERVIE,  MONTROSE.  213 

of  the  same  Mountains,  the  Town  of  Brechin  being  situated  on 
it,  we  travelled  most  of  the  way  on  an  old  beach  which  seems 
to  have  been  made  by  the  Sea  and  the  western  Strand  that 
might  anciently  have  been  much  deeper  than  it  is  at  present. 
Montrose  is  most  pleasantly  situated  on  an  Eminence  that  falls 
every  way  in  a  beautifull  manner,  one  street  about  half  a  mile 
in  length,  extending  along  the  heighth  of  it  from  the  gate  down 
to  the  Pier,  there  being  only  two  or  three  lanes  that  stretch 
from  it  to  North  and  South,  the  Street  is  broad  and  well  built 
except  that  most  of  the  houses  are  in  that  bad  style  of  building 
with  the  Gabel  Ends  to  the  Street.  They  have  one  Church ; 
and  in  the  green  to  the  East  is  a  handsome  Chapel  for  the 
Congregation  of  the  Church  of  England,  which  consists  of 
about  1000  Souls.  The  Seceders  are  here  of  two  sorts  called 
Burghers  and  Antiburghers  and  each  have  a  separate  Meeting 
house.  There  was  a  Convent  of  Dominicans  or  black  friars 
here  founded  in  1230  by  Sr  Alan  Durward. 

It  is  said  that  the  friars  were  translated  to  an  hospital  near 
the  City  built  by  Mr.  Patrick  Panter,  and  enquiring  for  the 
Convent  I  was  informed  that  it  was  a  little  to  the  north  of  the 
town  at  Muir  Montrose  which  is  a  house  belonging  to  Mr. 
Kennedy  where  foundations  of  buildings  have  been  discovered, 
and  under  the  threshold  of  a  Door,  an  Urn  with  a  utensil  of 
gold  worth  about  twelve  pounds,  which  from  the  Description 


answers  to  the  fibula  in  this  shape    JL  Jl     the  like  of  which 


has  been  often  found  in  Ireland.1 

This  I  conclude  to  have  been  the  hospital  from  which  they 
were  brought  to  their  old  Convent  by  permission  of  parliament 
in  1524,  a  piece  of  history  probably  not  to  their  honour. 

They  have  here  an  export  of  Corn  and  Salmon,  and  three 
vessels  employed  in  the  herring  fishery,  which  I  have  been 
assured  does  not  succeed,  no  more  than  the  Whale  fishery,  and 

1  In  1757,  Dr.  Pococke  communicated  'an  account  of  some  antiquities  found 
in  Ireland'  to  the  London  Society  of  Antiquaries  ;  and  in  1773  (eight  years  after 
his  death)  it  was  published  in  the  Archaologia,  vol.  ii.  pp.  32-41,  PI.  iii.  Fig. 
2,  together  with  plates  of  twe  ve  of  these  articles.  Vide  article  on  '  Antique 
Gold  Ornaments  found  in  Ireland  prior  to  1747,'  by  W.  R.  Wilde  in  Trans. 
Royal  Irish  Academy,  loth  Feb.  1862. 


214  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

that  both  will  be  laid  down,  as  carried  on  in  the  East  and 
North,  and  they  do  affirm  the  same  as  to  any  other  fishery  in 
the  East.  But  since  I  left  the  North,  great  shoals  of  herrings 
came  on  that  shoar : 

They  have  fine  granaries  here,  and  such  malt  houses  as  I 
never  saw  elsewhere,  they  are  round,  about  twenty  feet  in 
Diameter,  and  roofed  in  a  particular  manner  so  that  the  seg- 
ment of  a  circle  ends  at  top  in  a  point  on  two  sides,  and  on  the 
other  two  sides  it  is  a  roof  which  forms  an  inclined  plain  in  the 
common  way.  They  have  small  buildings  called  Cobles  in 
which  they  wet  it,  made  up  with  thin  flag,  with  which  their 
houses  are  covered. 

They  have  here  a  manufacture  of  sail  cloth  and  other  cloth, 
and  linnen  yarn.  Especially  dyed  threads,  and  for  these  pur- 
poses, they  import  a  great  quantity  of  flax  from  Riga  and 
Narva  in  Russia :  The  Castle  hill  is  to  the  West  of  the  town 
near  the  river  and  there  is  another  hill  to  the  North  of  the 
piers  which  was  made  by  the  Cleaning  of  the  harbour.  They 
have  some  curious  pebles  at  Alessis  haven,1  two  miles  South  of 
Montrose. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XLII. 

GLAMIS,  August  ^th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  left  Montrose  in  the  afternoon  and  crossing 
a  skirt  of  the  strand  came  into  a  most  beautifull  Country,  and 
passed  by  a  fine  grove  of  Firr  trees  belonging  to  Colonel  Scot 
whose  house  2  is  happily  situated  on  the  Eminence.  We  then 
rode  by  Mr.  Erskins's  of  Dun  much  the  same  situation,  and 
came  to  Dun  Quarry,  which  is  a  mixture  of  limestone  and  sand, 
and  as  I  apprehend  a  Marl  or  rotten  stone  good  for  manure. 
At  the  end  of  the  Strand  I  saw  what  was  called  old  Montrose 
and  New  Magdalene^s  and  near  it  is  a  Baronet  of  the  name  of 
Kennedy : 3  I  think  there  is  a  great  probability  that  the  Sea 
has  left  these  parts,  and  that  anciently  Montrose  was  here 
situated,  and  the  river  below,  a  good  harbour. 

1  Usan,  formerly  called  Ulysses-haven.  2  Hedderwick  House. 

8  Sir  D.  Carnegy,  Bart.,  Kinnaird,  great-grandfather  of  the  present  Earl  of 
Southesk. 


MONTROSE,  BRECHIN. 


215 


We  came  to  Brechin  five  miles  from  Montrose  finely  situated 
with  Glyns  on  three  sides,  and 
to  the  South  of  one  of  them,  is 
Lord  Penmure's  house l  on  the 
height  over  the  river  with  trees 
growing  out  of  the  perpendicu- 
lar rocks  :  it  commands  a  beauti- 
full  view  of  the  windings  of  the 
river  and  of  the  bridge :  A  large 
house  and  offices  were  built  to  an 
old  Castle  by  the  late  Lord,  who 
forfeited  in  1715,  and  the  present 
Lord  who  is  a  General  in  the 
Army  has  been  made  an  Earl  of 
Ireland. 

This  was  a  Bishop^s  See  but 
first  a  Convent  of  Culdees,  and 
K.  David  about  1150  founded 
the  See  :  The  Cathedral  is  situ- 
ated over  the  glyn  between  the 
Town  and  Lord  Penmure's.  The 
Choir  seems  to  be  coeval  with 
the  first  foundation  having  nar- 
row Gothic  single  windows  and 
semicircular  pilasters  between 
them,  and  one  on  each  side  of 
them  half  the  way  down :  Here 
is  a  round  tower  2  like  these  in 
Ireland  at  some  distance  from 
the  Quire,  but  the  body  of  the 
Church  is  built  to  it  so  as  to 
cover  about  a  quarter  of  it :  a 
step  appears  as  a  basement  to 
it  within  the  Church,  which  is 
only  three  inches  and  a  half 
broad,  and  probably  there  was  one  if  not  two  more  :  a  door  is 

1  Lord  Panmure,  Brechin  Castle,  now  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie's. 

2  The  Brechin  Tower  has  been  frequently  figured.     See  Gordon's  Itinerarium 
Septen.    1727,   p.    165,    PI.    62;  Archaologia,   vol.    ii.  ;    Pennant's  Tour  Scot., 


The  Round  Tower  at  Brechin. 


216  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

broke  into  it  from  the  Church,  and  the  first  door  is  built  up  ; 
a  view  of  it  is  here  seen ;  two  bells  hang  in  it,  and  there  are 
six  ladders  to  as  many  floors  which  are  laid  only  half  way  over 
and  fixed  on  the  projections  at  every  story  ;  the  door  way 
lighted  the  ground  floor,  and  that  next  above ;  a  window  on 
the  East  side  lighted  another  floor  :  one  above  that  lighted 
two  other  together  with  the  four  windows  in  the  top  part. 
The  door  is  made  with  a  plain  moulding,  the  Lintel  is  adorned 
at  each  end  with  Sculpture,  and  about  the  middle  on  each  side 
is  a  figure  of  a  Saint :  on  the  Crown  of  the  Arch  is  a  Crucifix, 
and  there  are  about  80  tiers  of  hewn  stone  to  the  Apex,  which 
is  an  Octagon,  and  the  Angles  of  the  base  of  it  project ;  There 
are  four  upright  pointed  windows  in  it,  and  I  suppose  this 
pyramidal  part  is  made  by  the  stones  projecting  within  and 
cut  in  an  inclined  plane  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Steeple  of 
the  Church  is,  according  to  the  information  I  had  as  I  observed 
the  same,  at  the  small  spire  at  Restennot,1  the  top  part  of 
which  is  solid  for  some  feet  and  it  is  also  an  Octagon. 

There  is  an  English  Church  here  consisting  of  350  Souls  in 
and  about  the  town  :  There  was  a  nonjuring  Congregation  and 
now  that  there  is  a  licenced  Minister,  many  of  them  come  to 
the  Chapel :  There  is  a  Congregation  of  Seceders  here.  They 
have  a  manufactory  of  linnen  and  several  shops,  &  it  is  the 
great  thoroughfare  to  the  North  :  The  town  is  much  improving 
in  buildings  of  freestone.  In  all  these  parts  they  cover  their 
houses  with  thin  flaggs.  They  have  a  town  house  and  a 
Modern  Cross,2  for  sale  of  Corn,  both  of  hewn  stone :  It  is  a 
royal  Borough  under  Lord  Penmure. 

Here  is  a  Clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England  Mr.  Norman 
Seivwright 3  who  has  composed  a  book  of  the  Theory  of  Church 
Musick,  and  another  of  the  practical  part  with  psalms  set  to 
tune ;  and  is  writing  a  hebrew  grammer  both  which  he  pro- 
poses to  publish ;  he  is  a  Native  of  Aberdeenshire,  and  a  man 
of  great  genius  and  application. 

I  set  forward  on  the  7th  and  came  in  a  mile  to  the  Esk  which 

1772,  part  2,  p.  161  ;  Hist,  of  Brechin,  by  D.  D.  Black,  2d  ed.,  1867,  p.  239 ; 
Scot,  in  Early  Christian  Times,  1881,  by  Joseph  Anderson,  LL.D.,  p.  38. 

1  Restenet.  2  Removed  in  1767. 

3  Seivewright  left  five  MSS. — a  Hebrew  Grammar  ;  Supp.  to  Eccles.  Hist. 
Scot.  ;  Church  of  England  Defended  ;  and  two  musical  pieces. 


BRECHIN,  FORFAR.  217 

we  forded,  I  was  shewn  to  the  North  a  hill  situated  between 
two  lesser  hills  ;  it  is  called  Catherthun  ;*  by  way  of  a  rampart, 
there  is  a  heap  of  stones  round  it ;  it  is  in  an  oval  figure  about 
80  yards  long  and  35  wide.  There  are  signs  of  a  wall  in  the 
middle,  and  a  fossee  all  round  the  hill  as  I  was  informed :  We 
saw  also  a  pleasant  place  called  Caristown  the  seat  of  Mr.  Skene 
of  Skene. 

This  country  is  very  fine,  the  plain  being  about  three  miles 
wide ;  we  crossed  a  hill  which  ends  about  two  or  three  miles  to 
the  west,  and  then  the  plain  may  be  about  six  miles  wide.  On 
the  hill  we  saw  Aberlemno  Crosses  ;2  two  of  which  are  adorned 
with  Sculptures ;  on  one  is  St.  Cathern's  Cross  with  some 
ornaments  of  Sculpture  (viz.)  Angel  on  each  side  of  it ;  on  the 
back  part  men  on  horseback  hunting  a  stag  are  represented ; 
They  are  said  to  be  erected  on  some  Victory  over  the  Danes  as 
was  Camus  Cross  between  Glames  and  Lord  Penmure. 

We  came  down  to  the  Monastery  of  Restennot 3  which 
belonged  to  the  Cannons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine ;  It  is  a 
peninsula  formed  by  a  Lough  and  Morass :  This  Lough  4  and 
that  of  Forfar  abound  in  perch,  Jack  and  Eel. 

Here  is  a  fine  Saxon  Square  tower  which  seems  to  have  been 
a  Detatched  building ;  for  the  body  of  the  parish  Church  is 
evidently  built  to  it ;  an  octangular  spire  is  practised  on  it,  in 
a  very  peculiar  manner ;  there  is  a  Cornice  round  it,  from  which 
each  of  the  two  sides  forms  an  inclined  plane  in  a  line  with 
the  Spire,  which  is  built  on  it,  and  the  other  sides  are  formed 
by  taking  off  the  same  breadth  from  the  Square,  and  ending  in 
a  point  where  the  regular  Octagon  is  formed,  at  which  place 
there  is  a  window  answering  to  the  middle  of  each  side  of  the 
square  tower.  The  Quire  is  on  the  model  of  that  of  Brechin, 
there  is  very  likely  more  of  this  Church  remaining.  The 
records  and  valuable  effects  of  Jedburgh  Abbey  were  kept  here, 
it  being  defended  as  'tis  said  by  a  drawbridge. 

I  came  in  a  mile  to  Forfar  a  poor  illbuilt  small  town  of 
farmers,  innkeepers,  and  linnen  Manufacturers :  A  great 

1  White  Caterthun  Hill-Fort, — more  probably  the  Wirren  Hill. 

2  Figured  and  described  in  Anderson's  Scot,  in  Early  Christian  Times,  1881, 
pp.  56  and  57. 

3  Priory  of  Restenet — a  ruin.  4  Loch  now  drained. 


218  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

quantity  of  flax  grows  in  this  Country,  especially  towards 
Glames:  The  people  spin  and  sell  the  yarn  to  the  weavers 
who  vend  the  green  unbleached  coarse  cloth  to  the  Merchants : 
they  export  it  to  London,  and  it  is  mostly  sent  to  North 
America:  Here  is  a  Church  with  a  Saxon  door  and  small 
narrow  windows  tho'  but  a  mean  building. 

Two  miles  more  through  an  exceeding  rich  Country  brought 
us  to  Glames  which  is  a  poor  market  town :  They  have  a 
pretty  good  Manufacture  of  Linnen  :  This  place  is  remarkable 
for  the  grand  Seat  of  Lord  Strath  more  :  It  was  given  in  1376 
by  King  Robert  the  first  of  the  Steuarts  with  his  Daughter  to 
John  Lyon  Lord  Glames  Chancellor  of  Scotland :  It  seems 
originally  to  have  been  a  Castle l  only  of  three  floors  in  shape  of 
an  L.  Patrick  Lord  of  Glames  in  1686  added  two  wings,  and 
the  round  tower  in  the  Angle  with  a  hollow  pillar  in  the  middle 
of  it,  in  which  the  clock  weights  hang,  and  the  stairs  round 
it  are  about  7  feet  long,  so  that  in  front  it  makes  this  shape, 
the  Castle  part  being  two  stories  higher  than  the 
wings :  There  is  a  good  hall  in  it,  and  many  Rooms. 
\  From  the  leads,  there  is  a  very  fine  prospect,  and  to  the 
North  East  in  a  little  Vale  between  the  Mountains,  is 
a  hill,  the  top  of  which  has  been  fortified,2  it  is  called  the  Law 
of  Denune:  We  saw  also  into  that  Glyn  between  the  hills  in 
which  Dunhold  3  stands,  that  is  sixteen  miles  distant.  At  all  the 
Angles  of  this  house  are  sort  of  projecting  Closets  practiced  like 
towers,  which  are  mostly  crowned  with  round  pyramids,  and  so 
are  two  round  towers  on  the  outer  arches  of  the  Whole,  which 
gives  it  a  most  uncommon  Gothic  appearance.  There  is  an 
avenue  to  the  house  of  four  or  five  rows  of  trees,  three  quarters 
of  a  measured  mile  long :  the  first  row  being  firr  trees,  and  the 
second  Lime.  The  fields  on  each  side  are  divided  by  rows  of 
trees  after  the  manner  of  St.  James's  Park  ;  and  the  plantations 
have  a  very  grand  appearance  :  The  present  Lord's  Uncle  was 
killed  in  battle  for  the  Pretender  in  1715  after  he  had  enter- 
tained him  here  in  his  house,  his  death  in  battle  saved  his 

1  Glamis  Castle.     See  Pennant's   Tour  Scot.,  1772,  part  2,   p.    170;   Mac- 
Gibbon  and  Ross's  Caste/.  Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887,  vol  ii.  pp.  113-125. 
-  Denoon  Castle. 
3  Dunhead,  a  stronghold  near  the  ravine's  Black  Den  and  Den  of  Gwynd. 


GLAMIS,  PANMURE.  219 

estates.  This  Earl's  Grandfather,  if  I  mistake  not,  was  made 
first  Earl  of  Strathmore  having  his  title  from  this  great  Vale, 
which  is  reckoned  to  extend  from  Stonehive  to  Sterling. 

It  is  supposed  that  all  the  great  Vales  of  Scotland  extend  in 
parallel  lines  from  North  East  to  South  West  as  this  does. 

The  Great  Glyn  at  Inverness  &  the  Kyle  of  Dornock  are 
the  principal.  And  that  of  Inverness  is  in  a  straight  line  & 
not  a  curve  as  represented  in  the  old  Maps,  &  from  the  hill 
at  Inverness  I  saw  the  whole  length  of  it. 

The  present  Lord  is  travelling  abroad  and  is  at  present  in 
Spain.  They  show  an  arched  room  in  the  Castle  in  which  they 
say  Malcolm  the  2d  was  murdered ;  and  near  the  Church  is  a 
stone  eight  feet  high  and  four  feet  broad  with  a  Cross l  cutt  in 
relief,  and  the  figure  of  two  men  with  hatchets  or  other  imple- 
ments with  which  'tis  supposed  Malcolm  was  killed  and  on  the 
other  side  a  fish,  as  an  emblem  of  the  lake,  in  which  they  say 
the  Murderers  were  drowned,  when  they  fled ;  and  that  this 
stone  was  erected  in  memory  of  this  Event. 

There  is  Marl  in  the  bottom  of  the  Lough,  which  they  raise 
and  carry  off'  in  flat  bottomed  boats. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XLIII. 

DUNDEE,  August  ^th,  1760. 

DEAII  SISTER, — On  the  8th  I  went  8  miles  to  Lord  Pen- 
nine's : 2  The  first  half  of  the  way  through  an  exceeding  fine 
Country,  the  latter  a  mixture  of  Heath  and  Corn  :  We  came 
to  Hynde  Castle  on  an  eminence  which  is  only  an  old  tower, 
the  walls  of  which  were  six  feet  thick  &  twelve  feet  square 
within ;  there  was  a  door  on  one  side,  and  a  Window  on  the 
three  other  sides.  I  observed  that  great  stones  were  laid  on 
the  sod  without  any  other  foundation,  as  in  most  of  the  Antient 
Castles. 

Lord  Penmure's  is  a  fine  situation  commanding  a  view  of 
the  Sea,  the  Firth  of  Tay,  and  of  a  fine  Country  everyway. 

1  Engraved  in  Pennant's    Tour,   1772,  part  2,  PI.  xviii.,  p.  166. 

2  Panmure  House,    Panbride,    near  Carnoustie.       See  Warden's   Angus  or 
Forfarshire,  1885,  vol.  v.  p.  57. 


220  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

There  is  a  grand  avenue  to  the  house,  to  the  right  and  East  is 
a  mount,  and  a  Plantation  of  firr  Trees  with  winding  Walks 
through  it :  There  is  a  Lawn  before  the  house,  which  was 
built  at  the  latter  end  of  the  last  Century  :  A  building  to  the 
West  side  of  the  Lawn  seemed  to  be  a  greenhouse  :  One  Vista 
to  the  West  is  adorned  with  a  ruin  through  which  a  pillar 
appears,  and  to  the  North  of  it  is  a  star  of  Eight  Walks  with 
a  pillar  in  the  Centre :  There  is  also  a  pretty  Mount  to  the 
west  of  the  house  with  a  Statue  on  it,  and  one  to  the  North 
East  on  which  another  is  to  be  placed.  The  rest  of  the 
demesne  consists  of  fields  finely  planted,  and  hills  at  a  little 
distance  covered  with  firrs. 

I  came  two  miles  and  a  half  to  the  north  east  to  the  Shoar, 
and  travelled  as  much  further  to  Aberbrothick ;  commonly 
called  Arbrooth,  a  flourishing  town  on  the  North  side  of  the 
bay,  on  the  river  Brothock  or  Brothe,  it  consists  of  about 
1000  houses  built  of  red  freestone  which  make  one  street  half 
a  mile  long,  and  two  other  Small  Streets :  They  have  a  great 
trade  in  linnen  yarn,  Sail  Cloths,  Osnaburgs l  and  other  linnens, 
and  have  formed  a  very  pretty  basen  by  the  help  of  three  or 
4  piers  into  which  a  vessel  of  100  Tons  can  come :  They  have 
a  Congregation  of  Seceders  about  50  of  them,  and  of  the  Con- 
gregation of  Four  (as  they  call  it  which  are  Nonjurors)  there 
is  a  very  small  number :  It  is  a  royal  Borough  under  Lord 
Penmure. 

There  are  ruins  here  of  a  famous  Abbey  2  founded  by  William 
the  Lyon  in  1178  to  Thomas  a  Becket :  It  is  called  Monas- 
terium  Baiounse  and  by  Demster  Aberbredock-Knidel :  King 
John  made  the  inhabitants  free  of  all  places  in  England  except 
London :  They  had  a  Mitred  Abbot  who  gave  the  inferior 
orders :  The  Church  and  especially  the  West  End  was  Exceed- 
ing Grand,  they  are  all  high  Gothic  Windows,  three  of  them  at 

1  Osnaburghs,  or  Oznaburgs.  '  The  name  given  to  a  coarse  linen  cloth 
manufactured  in  Angus,  from  its  resemblance  to  that  made  at  Osnaburgh  in 
Germany.' — Jamieson's  Scot.  Diet.  'The  first  manufacturer  of  the  cloth  called 
Osnaburghs  .  .  .  was  John  Wallace,  merchant,  and  some  time  provost  of 
Arbroath,  who  began  that  business  in  1740.' — Old  Stat.  Ac.  Scot.,  vol  xii.  p. 

177. 

'-  See  Pennant's  Tour,  1772,  Part  z,  pi.  xiv.  ;  Arbroath  and  its  Abbey — 
Aberbrothock,  by  D.  Miller,  1 860. 


ARBROATH. 

the  East  End :  In  the  Cross  isle  are  two  stories  of  flat  Gothic 
arched  Niches,  and  a  passage  over  them  in  the  Wall,  &  over 
that  there  is  a  large  round  window :  There  were  eight  Windows 
in  the  body,  and  probably  as  many  Arches  :  The  grand  front 
consisted  of  two  high  towers  supported  by  buttresses,  on  which 
and  the  Walls  in  front  an  octangular  solid  building  is  raised, 
which  is  crowned  with  a  round  kind  of  pedestal  probably 
designed  for  Statues.  Over  the  door  are  three  single  windows, 
and  over  them  again  a  round  window  of  great  size  (if  I  mistake 
not)  taking  the  window  frame  in,  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  The 
North  side  of  the  Church  is  entirely  destroyed :  to  the  East  of 
the  South  transept  was  the  Chapter  house  overarched,  and  a 
story  over  it  probably  destined  to  the  keeping  their  Archives  : 
In  the  Chapter  house  are  six  flat  Niches  on  three  sides  with 
pillars  supporting  the  Arches,  under  which  the  Members  doubt- 
less sat :  Adjoyning  to  that  transept  was  a  grand  building, 
and  a  door  from  it  to  the  Gallery  in  the  Church  ;  this  might 
be  the  Abbot's  Lodgings.  A  large  Building  joyns  on  to  the 
South  West  Angle  of  the  Church,  which  might  be  the  Appart- 
ment  for  Strangers,  and  to  the  west  of  this  is  a  grand  gateway 
consisting  of  four  flat  arches,  within  which  is  a  great  door,  and 
a  small  one  Contiguous  to  it.  This  seems  to  have  been  the 
grand  Entrance  to  the  Abbey ;  and  in  the  town  I  saw  a  fine 
wall  which  I  suppose  was  the  Enclosure  of  this  religious  house, 
John  Hamilton  second  Son  of  the  Duke  of  Chatelherault,  was 
the  last  Commendatory  Abbot,  afterwards  made  Marquis  of 
Hamilton :  In  favour  of  James  Marquis  of  Hamilton  son  to 
John  it  was  made  a  temporal  Lordship  in  1608,  and  then 
belonged  to  Lord  Dysart  who  sold  it  to  Patrick  Maule,  Lord 
Penmure,  Gentleman  of  the  bedchamber  to  James  the  Vlth, 
with  Advowsons  of  34  parish  Churches. 

I  proceeded  from  Arbroth  all  the  way  by  the  Sea  side ; 
passing  several  little  fishing  villages,  most  of  them  near 
rivulets,  which  form  coves  for  their  boats.  We  saw  the  light 
house  at  Buttonesshead  which  appears  like  a  pillar:  The 
prospect  that  way  is  not  very  agreeable,  as  there  is  a  range  of 
sandy  Hillocks  towards  this  point.  Further  on  the  small 
villages  are  thick,  and  the  hanging  ground  to  the  North  is 
beautifull. 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Within  three  miles  of  Dundee,  I  saw  Broughty  Castle  on  a 
point  to  the  South,  as  soon  as  we  had  turned  to  the  West  from 
Buttuness ; l  and  a  little  beyond  it  to  the  North  is  Fort  Hill,2 
where  there  seemed  to  be  remains  of  a  Modern  fortification. 
We  had  also  a  plain  view  of  St.  Andrews  to  the  South  West  of 
us  as  soon  as  we  turned  Westward,  the  land  of  Fife  extending 
a  considerable  way  to  the  East  of  it  towards  the  Frith  of  Forth. 

There  was  much  Smoak  over  Dundee,  and  dark  clouds  to  the 
West,  and  an  appearance  of  a  large  segment  of  a  circle  beyond 
the  tower  which  we  took  for  a  mountain,  but  going  on,  & 
the  appearance  being  very  near  an  entire  circle,  it  looked  some- 
thing like  the  Moon  in  Eclypse :  &  seeing  light  through  it, 
I  conjectured  it  might  be  some  kind  of  Ventilator ;  it  after- 
wards proved  to  be  a  new  invented  windmill  of  which  I  shall 
have  occasion  to  say  something  more. 

We  came  to  Dundee :  The  bay  is  called  the  Frith  of  Tay. 
This  Town  is  rather  above  it  on  Tay  River,  well  situated  on 
a  head  of  land  where  they  have  made  what  they  call  a  Harbour 
or  rather  a  Bason  with  two  great  piers,  one  to  the  East,  the 
other  to  the  west,  and  a  pier  in  front  with  an  entrance  on  each 
side ;  here  a  ship  of  500  tons  can  lye. 

The  town  consists  of  one  street  that  runs  paralel  with  the 
river,  which  widens  in  two  places  and  forms  two  sort  of  oblong 
squares ;  in  one  of  them  is  the  town  house,  a  handsome  Fabric 
of  freestone  built  by  Adam  the  Architect.  It  is  in  the  whole 
about  half  a  mile  long,  another  street  stretches  westward  from 
the  Quay,  and  another  extends  from  the  Square  westward  for 
a  quarter  of  a  mile ;  the  two  squares  are  handsome  and  so  is 
the  last  Street ;  but  the  other  parts  of  the  town  are  narrow  and 
not  kept  in  the  best  manner :  It  was  walled  round,  and  there 
is  a  small  hill  to  the  North  West  called  Windmill  hill,  which 
might  be  formerly  the  site  of  a  Castle. 

They  say  Edward  longshanks  as  they  always  call  Edward 
the  1st  of  England,  burnt  the  town ;  and  Monk  in  the  last 
Civil  War  cut  a  regiment  to  pieces  here,  who  broke  their 
parole,  put  many  of  the  inhabitants  to  the  sword,  and  set  fire 
to  some  parts  of  the  town,  having  taken  it  by  storm ;  &  this 
frightVd  all  Scotland : 

1  Buddon  Ness.  2  Drumsturdy-moor-law. 


DUNDEE.  223 

The  Parish  Church  must  have  been  very  large.  The  square 
tower l  is  now  standing,  which  is  very  handsome,  &  rises  about 
100  feet  high  to  a  Gothic  Balcony,  the  building  is  carried 
about  50  feet  higher,  with  battlements  in  the  same  style, 
I  believe  it  is  50  feet  square  at  bottom,  exclusive  of  the 
Buttresses :  The  Cross  Isle  and  East  End  of  the  Church  con- 
sist of  plain  low  single  Gothic  windows.  There  is  a  singular 
cornice  all  round ;  The  transcept  is  divided  into  two  modern 
Kirks,  and  the  East  End  into  a  third.  They  have  a  Library 
in  their  Vestry  which  consists  of  a  good  number  of  books  :  In 
this  town  are  Seceders,  and  Glassites  2  so  called  from  one  Glass 
of  the  town,  who  being  deprived,  on  what  occasion  I  did  not 
learn,  set  up  this  Congregation,  which  is  very  strict  &  holds 
some  different  tenets  from  the  other  Seceders.  The  Congrega- 
tion of  the  English  Church  consists  of  about  450  in  and  about 
the  town.  They  have  a  neat  Chapel  and  Organ  of  which  Dr. 
Heyington  a  very  eminent  Musitian  (who  took  his  degree  in 
Musick  at  Oxford  and  Cambridge  and  is  about  80)  is  the 
Organist.  Most  of  the  Gentlemen  in  the  Country  are  of  this 
Congregation.  There  are  about  the  same  number  of  Non- 
jurors,  but  the  greater  part  of  them  are  women. 

The  black  friars  or  Dominicans  were  to  the  North  where  the 
burial  place  now  is.  They  were  founded  by  Andw.  Aber- 
cromby  a  Burgess  of  the  town.  Jn°.  Grierson  much  esteemed 
for  his  learning,  and  many  years  Provincial  of  the  order  pro- 
fessed here.  To  the  west  of  the  harbour  are  ruins,  where  the 
hospital  now  is  which  place  is  called  Monkshill,  and  probably 
belonged  to  the  Conventuals  of  St.  Francis  founded  by 
Dervorgilla  Daughter  of  Lord  Galloway,  and  mother  of  John 
Baliol,  King  of  Scotland :  There  is  no  tradition  where  the 
Friars  of  the  Trinity  were  founded  by  James  Lindsay  about 
L392 ;  no  more  than  of  a  Nunnery  of  Clares. 

They  have  a  great  trade  here  in  Sail  Cloth,  Osnaburgs  and 
other  linnens,  which  is  much  Encreased  of  late,  as  that  trade  in 
Germany  has  been  obstructed  by  the  war :  The  houses  here 
are  4  or  5  stories  high. 

1  The  tower  of  St.  Mary's  Church  forms  the  frontispiece  to  Maxwell's  History 
of  Old  Dundee,  1884. 

2  Formed  originally  by  the  Rev.  John  Glass  on  his  being  deposed  from  the 
charge  of  Tealing. 


224  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

To  the  west  of  the  town  Mr.  Robertson  of  Fife  has  in  con- 
junction with  a  Company,  built  a  most  extraordinary  Windmill 
of  his  own  invention,  the  appearance  of  which  I  observed  was 
so  extraordinary  under  those  particular  circumstances  which 
may  rarely  happen.  The  Diameter  of  the  room  is  30  feet,  the 
wall  is  six  feet  thick  and  I  believe  about  twenty  high,  on  this 
by  triangular  Machinery  is  fixed  a  Wheel  with  three  radii  56 
feet  and  8  inches  in  Diameter.  There  are  24  radii  more  which 
are  strengthened  by  a  piece  of  timber  fixed  at  one  end  and  to 
the  axle  of  the  Wheel ;  to  Each  of  which  a  Vane  of  wood  is 
fixed  of  half  its  length,  and  another  between  them,  forty-eight 
in  all,  according  as  the  Wind  requires ;  so  that  if  the  wind  is 
high  they  are  fixed  more  upright  to  the  wind,  that  they  may 
take  less  of  it :  The  grand  wheel  is  moved  round  properly  to 
the  wind  by  a  cogwheel,  which  turns  in  a  hoop  of  iron  fixed 
horizontally  all  round  the  top  of  the  tower:  on  which  the 
whole  machinery  belonging  to  the  wheel  turns  and  moves  the 
wheel  with  it :  The  Machinery  of  the  wheel  itself  is  most  like 
the  wheel  of  a  Ventilator :  It  turns  four  Mills,  for  barley,  oats, 
wheat,  and  is  of  power  to  move  a  much  greater  number :  As 
the  Machine  must  be  turned  to  the  wind  that  it  may  pass 
through  the  vanes,  set  with  the  edges  opposite  to  the  wind ; 
the  question  is  how  it  will  stand  stormy  nights  when  the  wind 
often  veers  about,  and  may  take  it  every  way  in  a  very  short 
time. — I  am,  &c. 

LETTER  XLIV. 

DUNKELD,  August  I4//J  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  set  out  on  the  9th  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  town  passed  by  Dudop  an  old  house  of  the  Duke  of 
Douglas's,  built  about  a  Court  with  a  round  tower  at  each 
corner.  We  went  on  and  instead  of  crossing  over  to  the  North 
side  of  the  hill,  we  continued  on  the  South  side  by  Lord  Gray's 
and  by  Fowlis  Church  which  is  a  very  fine  piece  of  Masonry  of 
hewn  freestone :  There  is  a  small  round  window  at  the  East 
End  and  on  the  north  side  a  small  high  window  practiced  with 
three  segments  of  a  circle  at  the  top,  and  I  suppose  the  same 
on  the  South  Side ;  we  then  came  over  some  heathy  hills,  the 


DUNDEE,  COUPAR-ANGUS.  225 

south  end  of  which  is  called  Dulsinan l  on  which  was  Macbeth's 
habitation ; 

We  Descended  into  the  fine  plain  and  came  to  Couper  which 
is  a  poor  small  town,  in  which  they  have  a  little  Manufactory 
of  linnen :  There  was  an  Abbey  of  Cistercians  founded  by 
Malcolm  4th  in  1164,  only  a  small  part  of  what  I  take  to  be 
the  east  end  of  the  Church  is  standing. 

We  went  on  and  forded  the  large  river  which  falls  into  'the 
Tay  a  little  lower  and  had  a  prospect  of  most  beautifull  hills  a 
very  little  way  to  the  north,  and  travelled  in  view  of  the  Tay 
going  to  the  North  west,  and  passed  near  the  Seat  of  Delvin  2  a 
most  charming  situation  on  the  high  ground  over  the  river, 
and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  these  hills :  The  old  name  of 
this  place  is  Inchstrathill 3  which  is  said  to  be  the  ancient  city 
of  Cullen,  that  consisted  of  many  strong  Castles  belonging  to 
the  Picts,  who  burnt  it,  that  the  Romans  might  not  make  a 
fortification  of  it : 

We  crossed  a  low  hill,  came  in  between  rocky  mountains, 
and  passed  by  a  very  pleasant  place  Gairn  Tully 4  belonging  to 
Sir  John  Stuart  finely  planted  with  firrs.  Here  the  hills  appear 
in  such  a  manner,  that  a  traveller  can  hardly  imagine  that  there 
is  anything  beyond  them  but  rocky  mountains :  But  as  we 
entered  in  between  them,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  narrow  Valley 
with  high  Mountains  on  each  side ;  and  a  little  before  we  came 
to  Dunkeld  had  a  view  of  it  situated  in  between  these  Gram- 
pian Mountains  which  open  for  some  way  and  form  a  kind  of 
Amphitheatre  through  which  the  Tay  runs. 

The  Duke  of  Athol  has  a  Seat  here  and  I  did  myself  the 
honour  to  wait  on  his  grace  and  the  Dutchess,  and  staid  at 
their  house  meeting  with  a  most  polite  reception. 

The  town  is  small  but  the  buildings  are  improving ;  we  had 
come  from  Angus  into  Perthshire  where  we  crossed  the  river 
.  .  ,5  after  leaving  Couper. 

This  Shire  is  divided  into  Athol,  Glenshie,  Broadalbin, 
Stormont,  Strathern,  Gourie,  &  Monteith. 

1  Dunsinan.  2  Delvine,  the  seat  of  Sir  Alex.  Muir-Mackenzie,  Bart. 

:i  Inchtuthil,  Old  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  ix.  pp.  504-7. 

4  Should  be  Murthly,  belonging  to  Sir Stewart,  Bart.,  of  Grandtully. 

5  River  Isla. 


226  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Duukeld  was  a  Bishop's  See :  Constantine  the  Hid  King 
of  the  Picts  at  the  instance  of  Adamnanus  founded  a  monastery 
here  in  729  of  Kildies  or  Culdees  or  Colentes  Deum  who  had 
wives,  and  only  abstained,  when  they  ministered.  David  King 
of  Scots  expelled  the  Culdees  and  founded  a  Bishop's  See  here 
about  1127 ;  The  Diocese  of  Argyle  was  at  first  in  this  See, 
but  Bishop  John  Scot l  got  that  Diocese  to  be  separated  from 
it  about  1201. 

Bishop  Lauder  of  1452  built  a  bridge  over  Tay,  near  his 
house,  &  part  of  an  arch  of  it  is  seen ;  his  lands  on  the  north 
side  of  Tay  he  got  erected  into  the  barony  of  Dunkeld,  and 
those  on  the  south  into  the  barony  of  Aberlady,  and  purchased 
See  houses  or  Lodgings  for  the  See,  in  Edinburgh,  and  in 
Perth.  Bp.  Douglas  of  1516  translated  Virgil's  JSneid,  and 
writ  several  poems  which  are  much  admired. 

The  walls  of  the  Cathedral  remain  entire ;  a  tower  is  built 
to  it  on  the  south2  side  of  the  west  door,  as  if  the  design  was 
to  build  another  answering  to  that.  The  body  of  the  Church 
consists  of  seven  Arches  on  each  side  and  over  them  are  seven 
circular  windows  above  the  roof  of  the  isles,  with  Gothic 
ornaments  like  those  at  Westminster  Abbey,  except  that  the 
bottom  of  them  is  in  a  straight  line  whereas  those  at  West- 
minster are  a  segment  of  a  circle :  In  the  Quire  all  the 
windows  are  different  which  was  the  taste  of  one  age ; 3  This 
part  is  fitted  up  for  the  Kirk  ;  to  the  North  of  it,  is  the  small 
Chapter  house  which  is  the  burial  place  of  the  Duke's  family, 
over  which  there  is  a  room  that  might  serve  for  the  Archives : 
The  Bishop's  house  they  say  was  to  the  South  of  the  Church 
by  the  river  close  to  the  site  of  the  old  bridge : 

A  little  to  the  North  of  the  Church  is  the  Duke  of  Athol's 
house,  which  is  not  large.  But  as  there  is  a  warm  winter 
situation,  the  Duke  has  built  very  extensive  offices  and  the 
finest  Kitchen  I  believe  in  Britain ;  Behind  them  is  a  very 
handsome  Kitchen  Garden ;  on  the  east  side  of  which  is  a  long 
narrow  hill  beautifully  shaped  into  walks,  and  at  the  end  of  it 
over  the  avenue  to  the  house  is  a  Statue  of  the  Gladiator ;  on 
the  South  and  West  side  of  the  house  is  a  Lawn,  from  which 

1  See  p.  90.  -  Should  be  north  side. 

3  See  Billing's  Baronial  and  Eccles.  Atitiq.  of  Scot. 


DUNKELD.  227 

the  road  is  crossed  to  the  wood  and  fields,  that  are  divided  by 
a  high  road  which  comes  round  by  the  End  of  the  Church,  and 
there  is  a  communication  made  between  them  by  a  bridge  over 
the  road  ;  this  wood  consists  of  two  walks,  one  above  terminated 
to  the  East  by  a  view  of  the  Church,  the  other  is  close  to  the 
river,  and  both  end  to  the  East  in  a  lawn  which  is  before  the 
green  house ;  and  to  the  West  at  a  bowling  green  :  There  are 
two  ways  to  the  upper  part  which  chiefly  consists  of  Corn 
fields,  one  to  the  right  leads  up  to  the  farmhouse,  in  which 
there  is  a  handsome  room  with  a  fine  bow  window  in  it,  the 
other  directly  behind  the  house ;  from  the  latter,  one  way, 
leads  to  a  fine  piece  of  water  on  this  Eminence,  on  the  further 
side  of  which  are  houses  for  poultry,  and  a  room  to  dine  in  : 
another  way  to  the  left,  by  an  upper  and  lower  walk,  leads  to 
a  turret  called  the  fort,  below  which  are  cross  walks,  as  to 
fortify  the  hill,  and  at  the  bottom  a  beautifull  Chinese  house, 
with  the  Pheasantry  and  Dovery  near  it  for  Turtles  :  This  is 
opposite  to  the  bowling  green  on  the  river :  From  the  fort 
there  is  a  walk  round  to  the  water,  and  another  from  that 
down  to  the  road  by  the  Chinese  house  :  To  the  West  of  the 
water  ends  a  chain  of  high  rocky  hills,  which  run  from  the 
North  East,  and  there  is  one  single  hill  to  the  south  of  it  with 
a  remarkable  summit,  and  a  stone  on  it  called  the  King's 
Table ;  beyond  this  in  the  side  of  these  hills  is  a  natural  Cave 
in  the  rock,  and  whoever  sits  in  it  sees  only  the  river  and  the 
beautifull  fields  and  woods  over  it,  no  part  of  the  hills  appearing, 
which  has  a  fine  effect. 

A  small  mile  to  the  South  West  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river  and  just  over  a  Cascade  of  the  river  Brand,1  Mr.  Murray  2 
the  Duke's  Son  in  Law,  has  made  a  hermitage 3  on  the  rocks 
which  hang  over  the  water,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Cascade 
which  is  near  and  falls  about  twenty  feet :  A  very  handsome 
room  is  built  with  a  window  towards  the  fall,  the  Garden  is 

1  The  Braan. 

2  Captain  John  Murray,  M.P.  for  Perthshire,  son  of  Lord  George  Murray 
(who  commanded  in  the  '45).     He  succeeded  his  uncle  as  third  Duke  in  1764, 
and  was  the  great-grandfather  of  the  present  Duke. 

3  'Johnson  [Innkeeper  at  Inver,  the  Boat  of  Dunkeld]  told  me  yt  the  Bp.  of 
Ossory  spent  several  Hours  in  this  delightful  Hermitage,  and  wrote  a  good  deal 
in  it.' — Bishop  Forbes's  Journals,  ed.  by  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  1886,  p.  241. 


228          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

made  within  the  precincts  of  the  hermitage,  with  flower  beds 
and  borders  about  the  rocks,  which  appear  in  different 
altitudes,  and  there  are  also  two  little  basins  of  water.  Just 
over  the  river  towards  the  Cascade  is  a  Seat  formed  in  the  rock 
with  some  grotesque  work  in  it,  and  water  works,  which  with 
the  basins  are  supplied  from  a  reservoir  above  where  there  is  a 
mineral  water,  and  another  towards  the  river,  of  Steel  and 
Sulphur,  if  I  do  not  mistake,  which  has  been  lately  used 
Medicinally.  About  half  a  mile  higher  up  is  a  greater  fall  of 
water : 

In  returning  we  went  on  half  a  mile  to  the  North  West 
descending  through  the  wood  to  the  Tay,  having  a  beautifull 
small  hill  to  the  right  covered  with  oats ;  and  turning  to  the 
right  before  you  come  to  this  is  a  way  leading  to  Belville,  a 
hill  which  commands  the  finest  prospect  of  all,  with  a  winding 
way  to  the  top  of  it.  We  returned  down  by  the  river  to  the 
ferry.  They  have  a  fine  freestone  here,  but  no  limestone  nearer 
than  Fife  and  Blair :  They  use  the  former  brought  by  sea  to 
Perth. 

A  little  below  Dunkeld  is  Burnham1  hill  mentioned  in 
Shakespeare's  Tragedy  of  Macbeth,  there  are  ruins  on  the  top 
of  it  said  to  be  the  house  of  Malcolm.  They  find  curious 
pebbles  in  these  hills,  and  also  a  sort  of  Asbestus,  &  a  sparr 
mixed  with  a  black  mica,  which  when  pounded,  serves  for  sand. 
They  found  a  head  of  a  spear  in  brass  about  a  foot  long  in  the 
ground  within  a  circular  foundation  of  a  building  supposed  to 
be  a  burial  place. 

I  saw  here  the  wood  of  the  shrub  broom  which  is  a  most 
beautifull  mixture  of  browne  and  white,  much  like  the  rose 
wood  when  it  is  worked  and  polished.  I  here  also  saw  a  room 
wainscoted  with  Larch  boards  from  trees  of  the  Duke's  own 
planting,2  it  is  white  and  full  of  knots  which  add  to  the  beauty 
of  it ;  'twas  cut  green  and  does  not  warp :  and  being  put  on 
the  fire  green  it  extinguishes  the  fire  and  does  not  easily  burn 
as  they  say,  even  when  it  is  dry. — I  am,  &c. 

1  '  Till  Birnam  wood  remove  to  Dunsinane. ' — Macbeth. 
J  Larch,  first  imported  from  the  Tyrol  in  1737. 


DUNKELD,  BLAIR-ATHOLE.  229 


LETTER  XLV. 

i 
BLAIR  OF  ATHOL,  August  18,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  15th  I  set  out  with  the  Duke  for  the 
Blair  of  Athol  16  computed  and  20  measured  miles,  with  mile- 
stones all  the  way.  We  travelled  eight  miles  by  the  river  Tay 
to  the  place  where  the  Tumel  falls  into  it.  Here  there  is  a 
road  by  crossing  both  rivers  to  go  from  Blair  to  Tay  Mouth 
12  miles  ;  the  road  from  Dunkeld  to  Tay  Mouth  being  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Tay  : 

We  travelled  about  six  miles  further  to  the  place  where  the 
Garry  falls  into  the  Tumel,  by  which  river  we  went  a  mile,  and 
came  to  the  famous  pass  of  Gillicranky,1  which  is  a  road  made 
on  the  side  of  the  hill  over  the  river,  there  being  no  passage  on 
the  other  side  :  the  road  is  a  mile  long  and  then  the  Country 
opens  again :  King  William's  Army  under  General  Mackay x 
marched  through  this  pass,  and  just  after  they  had  entered  the 
plain  engaged  on  an  eminence  to  the  North,  at  a  house  to  the 
right,  where  they  were  defeated  by  the  Highlanders  under  Lord 
Dundee  who  was  killed  :  the  King's  troops  fled  up  the  hills  to 
the  South  and  the  Highlanders  came  down  to  the  Baggage  in 
the  plain  which  they  plundered  and  returned  home,  which 
happened  in  July  1689. 

In  this  road  are  several  small  Druid  temples  :  In  about  three 
miles  more  passing  over  the  Tilt  we  came  to  Blair  situated 
between  an  Amphitheatre  of  hills  beyond  which  the  tops  of 
mountains  appear  to  the  North-west  and  East,  the  ground  is 
rather  uneven,  but  there  are  fine  meadows  on  the  flat  ground 
to  the  South  and  South  West  towards  the  river :  On  an  Emin- 
ence to  the  West  is  a  summer  house  wainscoated  with  Larch, 
and  on  a  little  hill  beyond  it  there  is  a  small  Obelisk,  and  a 
grove  of  firr  trees  on  another  beyond  that :  all  round  the  house 
is  lawn  ;  and  the  offices  of  the  house  and  stables  are  so  disposed 

1  Killiecrankie.  See  Life  of  Lieut. -Gen.  Hugh  Mackay  of  Scourie,  by  John 
Mackay. 


230  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

to  the  South  East  in  separate  compartments  as  to  appear  very 
well  from  the  house  and  from  every  other  part. 

To  the  North  of  the  house  runs  a  small  stream  over  which 
are  3  or  four  bridges  that  appear  in  view  at  once  and  between 
them  a  Chinese  rail,  and  close  to  this  a  square  tower  is  built 
for  a  Clock  :  Higher  up  to  the  North  West  this  stream  passes 
through  a  Vale,  which  is  most  beautifully  planted  with  many 
sorts  of  American  trees  ;  This  is  called  Diana's  Grove,  from  a 
Statue  of  her  with  a  Stag  on  a  rising  ground,  from  which  there 
are  eight  walks ;  below  in  the  wood  is  the  temple  of  Fame,  and 
on  an  Eminence  in  another  part  are  the  statues  of  three  boys 
supporting  a  basket  of  flowers  and  fruit :  and  there  is  a  walk 
all  round  the  grove,  and  a  great  plantation  for  near  a  mile  on 
each  side  of  the  gully,  which  may  be  made  very  fine  :  In  this 
grove  there  is  a  walk  of  tall  Larch  trees  cut  up  within  like  a 
hedge. 

To  the  North  and  North  East  are  three  little  hills,  on  that 
to  the  West  is  a  pleasant  summer  house  that  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  whole,  which  consists  of  about  1200  Acres.  On  the 
middle  hill  is  an  Urn ;  on  the  other  to  the  East  is  an  Obelisk 
with  a  gilt  ball  on  the  top  of  it,  round  this  is  a  building  with 
seats  in  it  which  I  believe  will  be  removed  :  This  enclosure  with 
several  fields  continues  on  to  the  Tilt  which  runs  in  a  deep 
rocky  Gully  called  a  Den,  with  several  Cascades  l  in  it,  and  a 
rivulet  tumbles  down  from  the  East,  over  which,  at  a  hamlet 
on  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  bridge,  from  which  there  is  a  water- 
fall between  rocks  in  a  bed  rather  deep,  and  adorned  with 
wood  ;  it  falls  from  several  rocks  in  many  breaks,  and  the  whole 
may  be  300  perpendicular  feet ;  but  is  not  seen  altogether, 
except  perhaps  after  great  rains.  All  this  rock  is  a  blewish 
limestone  : 

There  is  a  riding  to  drive  round  this  part,  the  three  hills  and 
the  Kitchen  garden  which  is  to  the  North  East  between  the 
middle  hill  and  Eastern  hill,  situated  in  a  valley ;  in  the  whole 
length  of  which  Kitchen  garden,  the  Duke  has  made  a  fine 
piece  of  water,  with  six  or  seven  islands  and  peninsulas  in  it, 
two  of  which  are  for  the  swans  to  breed  on,  having  thatched 
houses  built  on  them  for  that  purpose,  and  the  wild  ducks 
1  Pennant's  Tours  Scot.,  1769,  p.  118  ;  1772,  pt.  2,  p.  59. 


BLAIR  CASTLE.  231 

breed  on  the  islands :  The  Garden  is  formed  on  a  gentle 
declivity  on  each  side  all  walled  round.  There  is  a  pidgeon 
house  at  one  Angle  and  a  Gardeners  house  at  another,  and  at 
the  south  end  is  a  semicircular  Summerhouse  which  is  all 
glass  in  the  front ;  In  the  walk  leading  to  this  and  on  each  side 
of  the  Cross  Walk,  are  about  twenty  grotesque  figures  in  lead, 
and  painted,  which  have  a  very  pretty  effect  in  that  situation, 
at  each  end  is  a  parterre  of  many  sorts  of  perennial  flowers  ; 
the  garden  is  about  1200  feet  long,  the  breadth  is  not  the 
same  but  may  be  from  4  to  500  feet.  This  is  the  most  beauti- 
full  Kitchen  garden  I  believe  in  the  world  : 

To  the  East  of  it  is  a  fine  walk  with  a  Colossal  Statue  of 
Hercules  in  it,  the  walk  extends  a  good  way  round,  most  of  the 
fields  are  fenced  with  very  broad  double  ditches,  and  plantations 
on  them,  and  there  are  some  plantations  made  in  the  fields  to 
break  the  view,  being  planted  in  manner  of  Clumps.  The  most 
beautifull  prospect  is  to  Kily  Cranky,  near  which  there  is  a 
grove,  and  beyond  that  a  hill  adorned  with  Corn  fields  and 
groves,  or  broad  divisions  planted  with  trees,  which  has 
altogether  a  most  striking  effect. 

The  house  consists  of  a  large  high  pile  of  building  with  dairy 
offices  and  a  farm  house  to  the  west  of  it,  and  a  long  chain  of 
building  of  two  floors  to  the  East  extending  about  two 
hundred  feet  in  length  with  a  return  that  stretches  on  to  the 
East  end  of  the  house  near  the  whole  breadth  of  it ;  in  this 
latter  is  a  fine  Dining  room,  within  it  a  Drawing  room  which 
belongs  to  a  bed  chamber  ;  To  this  you  enter  from  the  ground, 
the  other  consists  of  a  common  drawing  room,  and  five  bed 
chambers,  with  a  smaller  room  to  each  of  them  in  which  is  a 
bed  for  a  servant.  But  under  both  these  which  form  an  L  the 
ground  falls  so,  that  there  are  offices  for  servants  to  which  there 
are  entrances  from  without  at  the  lower  end.  And  yet  the 
ground  rises  in  such  a  manner  that  from  the  upper  floor  of 
these,  there  is  a  flight  of  stairs  of  several  steps  to  the  ground 
rooms  of  the  grand  house,  most  part  of  which  consists  of  four 
floors  ;  The  ground  floor  is  arched  for  offices  of  Different  kinds, 
&  the  Duke  has  a  Dining  room  in  it  and  one  room  designed 
for  his  Study,  but  never  used.  This  house  consists  of  three 
parts,  The  old  tower  of  the  Cummins,  of  one  room  and  three 


232  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Closets  on  a  floor,  one  of  which  is  in  a  turret,  built  at  the  back 
of  it,  and  probably  served  as  a  staircase  ;  There  are  two  floors 
built  with  a  bedchamber  in  each  :  it  did  consist  of  four  more 
stories,  which  the  Duke  took  down.  To  this  an  Ancestor  of 
the  Duke  about  the  time  of  James  the  5th  built  a  room  52 
feet  long  and  twenty  seven  broad,  and  only  began  a  fabric  for 
two  very  fine  rooms  on  a  floor  which  was  raised  but  one  story  ; 
these  are  now  finished  with  Closets  to  them.  Up  one  pair  of 
steps  is  a  most  beautifull  large  dining  room,  adjoyning  to  it  a 
Drawing  room,  and  beyond  that  a  bed  Chamber ;  over  this  the 
room  is  27  feet  high,  and  is  a  most  magnificent  Saloon,  with 
two  grand  bed  chambers  in  the  fabric  which  was  left  unfinished  : 
To  this  a  part  consisting  of  the  grand  room  there  was  a  round 
tower  that  was  three  stories  high,  but  part  of  it  was  taken  down, 
and  what  remains  serves  for  a  back  stair  case ;  and  an  addition 
is  also  made  to  this  part  for  a  grand  stair  case  which  is  of 
Mohogny,  but  wainscoated  all  the  way  up,  in  compartments  for 
pictures,  and  with  a  fine  freeze  at  each  landing  place  of 
Pomeranian  red  deal  which  looks  like  Cedar.  Over  the  two 
end  buildings  are  rooms  for  servants,  mostly  in  the  roof,  which 
do  not  appear  on  the  outside :  All  the  rooms  in  general  are 
finished  in  the  highest  manner  with  Carvings  and  Stucco  Ceil- 
ings ;  But  those  of  the  great  fabric  are  exceeding  grand  and 
adorned  with  costly  Chimney  pieces  of  Marble  &  Exquisite 
Carvings,  some  with  hangings  of  tapestry,  others  with  Genoa 
Damask,  beautifull  Marble  tables,  fine  beds  and  the  richest 
furniture :  Here  is  one  particular  piece,  a  bureau l  made  of  the 
wood  of  broom  fineered,  the  folding  doors  of  which  are  glass  in 
Gothic  figures,  and  the  frames  are  most  beautifull  in  this  wood, 
and  particularly  an  Urn  of  Carved  work  at  the  top  of  it  has  a 
fine  effect :  This  wood  is  brown  in  the  middle  and  white  on 
each  side,  and  is  much  like  rosewood.  They  have  limestone 
here  in  several  parts. — I  am,  £c. 

1  Pennant's  Tour  Scot.,  1769,  p.  118.     The  bureau  is  still  (1887)  in  very  good 
preservation. 


BLAIR  CASTLE,  RANNOCH.  233 


LETTER  XLVI. 

TAYMOUTH,  i8t/i  August  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  18th  I  left  Blair  highly  satisfied  with 
what  I  had  seen,  and  with  the  politeness  of  the  noble  possessors 
which  cannot  be  exceeded. 

I  went  in  the  high  road,  ten  measured  miles  north  west  to 
Dalnarnick x  near  to  the  river  Garry  into  which  the  Tilt  falls  a 
little  below  Blair ;  we  went  over  the  foot  only  of  one  hill ; 
About  the  place  where  we  passed  the  Bruar  Water,2  I  saw  a 
village  3  to  the  South,  at  which  there  is  an  old  Celtic  Mount : 
We  then  turned  to  the  South  where  this  great  road  from  the 
North  divides  and  goes  south  to  Sterling : 

We  went  over  one  hill,  and  going  along  the  side  of  another 
we  came  down  to  the  river  Ranack,  which  is  a  water  that  rises 
in  the  North  out  of  a  Loch  called  Loch  Eruch,4  it  then  falls  by 
a  river  5  into  Loch  Ranack,  which  runs  to  the  east  and  empties 
itself  by  this  river  into  Lough  Tomel 6  that  falls  by  a  river  of 
that  name  into  the  Tay,  near  which  we  travelled  to  Blair : 
Above  it  is  a  narrow  Country  improved,  and  a  road  made  by 
art  to  Lough  Rannack,  where  they  have  large  firr  trees  which 
are  felled,  and  cut  into  boards :  Lower  down  the  country  is 
wider,  and  most  beautifull  contrasted  with  fields  and  woods 
about  Loch  Tomel,  and  'tis  said  all  the  way  down :  so  far  we 
had  a  coarse  whin  or  firestone ;  having  passed  the  river,  I  saw 
a  spot  which  I  took  to  be  limestone,  and  I  was  informed  that 
all  the  way  to  Taymouth  there  is  limestone,  mostly  a  blew 
marble  mixed  with  veins  of  sparr,  which  continues  for  about 
five  miles  on  each  side  of  Lough  Tay. 

We  came  over  a  hill  and  then  crossed  a  Gully 7  in  which  a 
Stream  runs ;  above  it  is  a  heathy  country,  below  the  water 
runns  between  rocks,  all  highly  adorned  with  Birch  trees,  and 
a  Corn  Country  for  some  wav  on  each  side  of  it :  Two  streams 

1  Dalnacardoch. 

2  See  Burns's  poem,  '  The  Humble  Petition  of  the  Bruar  Water  to  the  Noble 
Duke  of  Athol ; '  part  now  beautifully  planted. 

3  Struan.  4  Loch  Ericht.  5  River  Ericht  into  Loch  Rannoch. 
6  Loch  Tummel  and  River  Tummel.  7  Glengowlay. 


234  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

unite  and  between  them  stands  the  Castle  of  Garth,  the  stream l 
there  falls  down  the  rocks  some  feet  into  a  basin  worn  by  the 
water,  and  from  that  about  15  or  20  feet  into  the  above  men- 
tioned river,  which  soon  falls  into  the  Lyon,  and  that  into  the 
Tay  to  the  East  of  Taymouth  :  We  crossed  the  Lyon  and  the 
Tay  to  Taymouth. 

The  Tay  by  its  winding  forms  a  peninsula,  in  which  stands 
the  Earl  of  Broadalbin's  house.  The  way  to  it  is  either  to 
cross  the  Lyon  and  Tay  where  they  meet,  or  to  cross  the  Lyon 
and  keep  on  South,  &  to  cross  the  river  Tay  where  it  runs 
east  again ;  or  to  go  two  miles  lower  and  cross  over  at  Tay 
bridge  which  must  be  done  when  there  are  floods :  The  vale  to 
the  East  is  exceedingly  beautifull  in  fields  and  plantations,  and 
so  they  say  it  is  for  twelve  miles  to  the  place  I  must  have  come 
to,  which  is  twelve  miles  also  from  Blair,  in  case  I  had  taken 
that  way :  Nothing  can  be  imagined  finer  than  this  peninsula 
and  the  hills  on  each  side,  especially  to  the  south,  which  are 
exceeding  beautifull  in  fields  and  plantations,  as  I  shall  more 
particularly  describe. 

Several  rivulets  rise  to  the  west,  north,  and  south  &  form 
Loch  Tay,  which  is  near  20  miles  long,  &  about  a  mile  broad, 
appearing  like  a  large  river.  It  empties  itself  by  the  Tay,  over 
which  four  miles  lower  is  a  bridge  with  these  inscriptions  on  it.2 

MIRARE. 

Viam  hanc  Militarem 
Ultra  Romanos  Terminos 
M.  Passuum  C  C  L  hac  iliac  Extensam 
Tesquis  et  paludibus  .  .  .  insultantem 
Per  montes  rupes     patefactum 
Et  indignanti  Tavo 
ut  Cernis  instratam. 
Opus  hoc  arduum  Sua  Solertia 
et  Decennali  Militum  Opera 
An  ^Er  Xnoe  1733  Posuit  G.  Wade 

1  Keltney  Burn. 

2  '  The  middle  arch  is  60  feet  diameter,  and  it  bears  the  above  inscription, 
made  Latin  from  English,  as  I  have  been  told,  by  Dr.  Friend,  master  of  West- 
minster-school.'— Captain  Hurt's  Letters  from  the  North  of  Scotland,  1728-1736, 
vol.  ii.  Letter  26.     Also  Pennant's  Tour  Scot.,  1769,  p.  99. 


TAYMOUTH,  KENMORE.  235 

Copiarum  in  Scotia  proefectus, 

Ecce  quantum  Valeant 

Regis  Georgii  2di  Auspicia 

"  At  the  command  of  his  Majesty  King  George  the  2d  this 
bridge  was  erected  in  the  year  1733.  This  with  the  roads  and 
o^her  military  works  for  securing  a  safe  and  easy  communica- 
tion between  the  highlands  and  trading  towns  in  the  low 
Country,  was  by  his  Majesty  committed  to  the  care  of  Lieu- 
tenant General  George  Wade  commander  in  chief  of  the  forces 
in  Scotland,  who  laid  the  first  stone  of  this  bridge  on  the  23d 
of  April  and  finished  the  work  in  the  same  year." 

At  the  place  where  the  Lough  empties  itself  by  the  river  is 
a  promontory  to  the  south  of  it,  on  which  stands  the  Church, 
and  a  small  village  called  Kenmore,  and  on  the  side  of  the  hill 
to  the  south  is  the  Minister's  house :  This  is  a  mile  from  Lord 
Broadalbin's  house ;  his  plantations  extending  to  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  it :  The  river  winds  and  forms  the  shape 
of  a  Swan's  neck,  so  that  the  house  stands  in  a  peninsula,  the 
Isthmus  of  which  is  about  half  a  mile  broad  : 

The  house  is  near  the  East  side  of  it,  and  behind  it  and  the 
offices  is  a  fine  lawn  of  uneven  ground  adorned  with  single 
trees  ;  to  the  west  of  it  by  the  river  is  a  broad  walk  finely 
planted  which  extends  to  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the 
mouth  of  it,  and  where  it  makes  the  greatest  bow,  a  fine  walk 
of  lime  trees  of  great  size  and  meeting  at  top  forms  the  string ; 
towards  the  end  of  the  walk  on  an  eminence  is  a  pleasant 
summer  house  commanding  a  view  of  the  rich  country  to  the 
east  and  of  the  Lake  to  the  west,  with  the  hills  to  the  south  of 
it  highly  cultivated,  and  at  the  end  of  the  walk  is  a  triangular 
mount  for  a  turning  Seat :  on  a  mount  to  the  South  is  an 
arched  summer  house  ;  and  on  a  long  mount  nearer  the  village 
a  fortification  is  designed  as  an  object  for  prospect.  On  the 
other  side  upon  a  terrace  is  a  beautifull  broad  walk,  with  a  fine 
summer  house  at  the  west  end  and  an  open  Cross  house  at  the 
other  just  over  the  river  at  the  south  end  of  the  Isthmus : 
This  walk  is  2800  yards  long,  the  other  taking  in  the  string 
of  the  bow  is  1900  yards  in  length.  To  the  south  of  the  lawn 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill  a  road  passes  to  the  village,  and  to  a  short 


236  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

way  up  the  hill  leading  to  the  South  :  From  this  road  there  is 
a  walk  up  the  hill  which  leads  to  the  west  to  the  end  of  a 
broad  walk  with  trees  planted  on  each  side  and  leading  to  the 
East,  at  the  end  of  it  is  an  open  building  with  Seats  ;  This 
walk  has  the  most  retired  and  quiet  look  that  I  ever  saw. 
From  this  there  is  a  walk  up  the  hill  to  a  lawn  in  which  there 
is  a  very  large  beech  tree  with  a  seat  round  it,  that  commands 
a  fine  view  to  the  west;  From  this  lawn  there  is  a  narrow 
winding  walk  with  several  seats  at  proper  distances  leading  to 
the  round  tower,  the  walls  of  which  are  about  three  feet  thick, 
and  the  room  18  in  Diameter,  and  there  is  a  way  up  to  the 
leads,  the  top  being  finished  with  Battlements ;  from  which 
there  is  a  very  fine  prospect  to  the  West  and  North  :  From 
this  height  we  descended  to  the  North  East  to  a  seat  called 
./Bolus  which  affords  the  most  pleasing  prospect  every  way,  and 
has  itself  a  most  beautifull  effect  in  prospect  especially  from 
the  North  :  It  is  built  with  two  square  pillars  of  hewn  stone 
supporting  an  angular  pediment  in  front,  and  it  is  open  on  both 
sides,  except  a  little  part  which  is  closed  for  shelter  to  the  Seat  : 
and  the  trees  are  high  behind  it:  From  this  we  descended 
half  a  mile,  passing  mostly  through  fields  to  the  Octagon 
Summer  house  on  an  Eminence,  near  which  -is  a  small  Druid 
Temple,  and  to  the  west  of  it  on  the  plain,  a  Kitchen  Garden 
walled  in  of  above  four  Scotch  acres. 

Another  day  we  went  to  the  Island  in  which  there  was  a 
Priory  (belonging  to  Scone)  of  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine 
founded  by  Alexr  1st  about  the  beginning  of  the  13th  Century. 
It  is  called  Loch  Tay,1  and  Sybilla  his  Queen,  daughter  to 
Henry  1st  of  England  dyed  here,  and  was  buried  in  the  Church. 
What  is  supposed  to  be  the  Chapel  is  still  standing,  a  stone  for 
holy  water  having  been  found  in  the  wall  and  a  Cross  like  that 
of  Malta ;  but  there  have  been  buildings  erected  at  each  end  of 
it ;  which  whether  they  were  part  of  the  Convent  or  not  I  can- 
not say ;  but  this  is  certain,  that  the  Campbell 2  family  in  the 
last  Civil  War,  then  Baronets,  did  live  in  it,  and  defended  that 
part  against  Montrose,  who  on  that  account  destroyed  this 
Country. 

We  crossed  over  to  the  other  side,  &  rid  two  miles  by  the 
Lake,  and  turned  into  Glyn  Lyon,  going  Eastward,  and  pro- 

1  The  Isle  of  Lochtay.  2  See  The  Black  Book  of  Taymoutk,  1855. 


TAYMOUTH  CASTLE. 


237 


ceeded  thro'  that  vale  for  about  a  Mile,  we  came  to  a  small 
entrenchment  called  Fortnegall 1  (The  Stranger's  Fort)  it 
measures  on  the  south  side  forty  four  yards,  and  on  the  west 
35.  The  Rampart  is  about  fifteen  feet  high,  there  was  an 
opening  on  one  side  in  the  middle,  and  a  causeway  made  over 
to  it  near  the  corner  on  the  south  side,  which  if  it  be  a  work  of 


An  Antient  Vase. 

the  Romans,  this  bridge  was  made  since  their  time  ;  there  is  an 
appearance  from  it  of  what  looks  like  irregular  lines,  but  it 
seemed  rather  to  be  Channels  made  by  the  running  of  the 
water,  the  ground  being  as  high  within  as  round  the  edge  of  the 
bank :  exactly  opposite  to  the  middle  of  one  of  these  lines  which 
is  200  yards  in  length,  is  a  stone  set  up  on  end,  in  the  middle 
of  a  hollowed  ring,  which  doubtless  is  a  tomb  :  Lord  Broadal- 
bine  has  a  Copper  Vase  2  with  three  feet,  which  is  said  to  have 
been  found  near  this  place.  A  drawing  of  it  is  here  given. 

1  Fortingall.     The  etymology  very  doubtful. 

2  '  An  urn  or  vase  (a  tripod)  of  a  mixed  metal,  something  like  a  coffee-pot, 
with  a  handle  and  spout.     It  was  found,  about  the  year  1733,  in  the  prsetorium 
of  a  Roman  camp  in  Fortingall.' — New  Stat.  Ac,  Scot.,  Perth,  vol  x.  p.  468. 


238  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

The  Lyon  which  rises  to  the  west  runs  through  the  vale ; 
part  of  which  was  Mr.  Robertson's  Estate l  that  is  forfeited,  to 
whom  the  woods  about  Lough  Rannack  did  belong,  in  which 
there  are  large  firr  trees.  The  boards  cut  out  of  them  sell  for 
8d  each  on  the  spot :  we  fell  into  the  road  I  came  into  Tay- 
mouth  within  two  miles  of  Lord  Broadalbine's  house,  and  turned 
up  the  east  end  of  the  high  ridge  of  hills  which  we  had  encom- 
passed, on  which  is  a  rocky  summit,  that  is  very  stony,  and 
where  it  is  not  a  precipice,  'tis  strengthened  by  a  Wall  without 
Mortar  8  feet  thick ;  and  there  are  many  outworks  of  walls 
below  to  strengthen  the  weak  parts,  most  of  which  have  been 
destroyed,  we  descended  down  to  Taymouth.  The  Lough 
consists  of  three  reaches,  the  two  first  which  we  saw  are  each 
three  miles  long,  the  other  4  miles,  in  all  fifteen  measured  miles, 
and  a  mile  broad.  There  are  Salmon  in  it  in  season  all  the 
year  round,  Pikes,  Perch,  Eels,  and  large  Lough  trout  rarely 
caught  which  weigh  30  or  401b.  This  family  and  that  of  the 
Argyle  about  400  years  ago  branched  out  from  a  Common 
Ancestor,  and  inhabited  the  isles  in  Lough  Awe  as  mentioned 
before.2 — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  XLVII. 

DRUMMOND  CASTLE,  August  the  22d  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  22nd  I  set  out  and  went  3  miles  to 
Tay  bridge  which  consists  of  five  arches,  and  is  adorned  with  4 
obelisks.  A  little  above  it  is  Sir  Robert  Menges,3  an  old  Castle  * 
with  a  fine  plantation,  and  some  walks  made  through  them,  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  vale  in  which  the  Tay  runs :  &  ascend- 
ing the  hill  to  the  south,  passed  by  a  large  stone  set  up  on  end, 
came  over  a  high  hill,  and  went  along  the  side  of  another  hill 
having  a  rivulet  to  the  East,  which  falls  into  the  Brand  5  water 

1  Strowan  or  Struan.  2  See  p.  68. 

3  Sir  Robert  Menzies  of  that  Ilk.  4  Built  in  1571. 

5  Braan  river. 


STRATHEARN.  239 

that  empties  itself  into  the  Tay  by  the  Hermitage  at  Dunkeld; 
in  which  vale  we  saw  a  very  pretty  improved  Country,  as  well 
as  about  Lough  Erucchy l  of  which  we  had  a  prospect  at  a 
distance.  Here  is  a  good  public  house  2  eleven  measured  miles 
from  Creif  and  above  nine  from  Tay  bridge.  Four  miles  more 
brought  us  to  a  little  hamlet  called  Newtown  on  the  river; 
Here  the  high  rocky  mountains  make  a  dreadfull  appearance 
projecting  over  the  valley,  which  by  the  winding  of  the  river, 
appears  like  two  distinct  valleys  and  is  called  the  Mouth  of  the 
highlands.3 

We  went  on  in  one  of  these  Vales  with  the  hills  on  each  side, 
which  make  it  a  difficult  pass,  we  ascended  over  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  and  came  to  a  little  house  called  Creif,  where  the 
late  Duke  of  Perth  endeavoured  to  establish  a  linnen  Manufac- 
ture which  did  not  succeed  :  It  is  finely  situated  on  an  eminence 
about  a  furlong  from  the  bridge  over  the  river  Erne,  which 
rises  out  of  Lough  Erne  falls  into  the  Tay  below  Perth,  and 
gives  the  name  of  Strathern  to  all  this  fine  vale:  before  we 
reached  this  place,  we  had  passed  a  fine  situation4  in  the  vale 
belonging  to  the  late  Mr.  Campbell,5  who  had  built  a  large 
room  for  a  library  of  choice  books  which  he  and  his  two  imme- 
diate predecessors  had  collected,  and  has  been  since  bought  by 
booksellers  in  Edinburgh.  There  are  small  hills  to  the  North 
covered  with  trees  which  have  a  most  beautifull  effect. 

I  came  on  two  miles  in  the  Sterling  road,  turned  to  the 
right,  and  went  a  mile  to  Mr.  Drummonds — married  to  Lady 
Catherine  Paulet  the  late  Duke  of  Bolton's  daughter ;  who  is 
of  the  house  of  the  late  Duke  of  Perth.  This  is  a  very  fine 
situation  on  an  eminence  commanding  a  view  of  the  windings 
of  the  Erne  which  are  very  remarkable,  of  a  fine  flat  country 
abounding  in  woods  for  near  two  miles  round,  and  of  the  hills 
covered  with  woods  to  the  North  and  West.  The  Earl  of 
Perth  who  was  Chancellor  of  Scotland  to  James  the  2d  and 
transacted  the  Scotch  affairs,  made  these  great  plantations  of 
several  kinds  of  firrs,  also  of  beech,  sycamore  and  many  other 
sorts  of  trees,  some  of  the  spruce  firrs  are  three  feet  in  Dia- 
meter. This  Estate  has  paid  oft'  ^70,000  debts,  and  the  Rent 

1  Loch  Freuchie  or  Fraochie.  2  Amulree. 

3  Glenalmond.  4  Monzie.  5  See  p.  244. 


240  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

of  this  as  of  the  other  forfeited  Estates,  is  now  applied  for 
publick  uses  and  collected  by  the  receiver  general  of  Scotland. 
There  is  a  remarkable  thing  here,  a  vein  of  rocks  about  50  feet 
broad,  and  in  some  places  more,  runs  through  the  Country  and 
rises  above  ground  :  On  a  part  of  it  Drummond  Castle,1  now 
entirely  ruined,  was  built ;  it  is  said  it  runs  from  Dunbarton 
to  Stonehive  near  Aberdeen,  in  Different  Directions. 

There  are  very  large  woods  to  the  North  and  west  which  are 
cut  down  once  in  25  years,  and  are  most  beautifull  in  prospect. 

We  went  five  miles  to  Ardoch,  in  the  way  to  Sterling,  to 
Sir  William  Sterlings,  who  showed  me  the  Camp  of  Ardoch 2 
on  the  river;  for  this  is  one  of  the  Camps  made  by  Julius 
Agricola ;  It  consists  within  the  Entrenchment  of  about  two 
Acres  of  ground,  on  the  side  to  the  river  were  only  two  fosses, 
one  of  which  has  been  destroyed  by  the  road ;  on  the  other 
side  are  five  fosses,  and  a  rampart :  within  which  there  is  a 
broad  way  all  round ;  In  the  Praetorium  is  a  very  small  fossee 
for  the  General's  Tent  nearer  to  one  side  than  the  other,  the 
outer  rampart  cannot  be  less  than  20  feet  high,  to  the  North  of 
this  fort  is  a  large  Camp  extending  about  500  yards  in  length 
200  in  breadth  having  a  Morass  to  the  West ;  from  about  the 
North  East  corner  of  it  a  line  is  Drawn,  and  there  is  a  Roman 
road  near  it ;  which  latter  they  say  goes  to  Perth,  and  from 
that  town  to  Cowper  in  Angus,  but  I  doubt  whether  it  goes 
further  than  Perth ;  The  line  extends  to  the  Camp  at  Strageth ; 
and  about  two  measured  miles  from  the  Camp,  is  a  small  fort 
called  the  Castle  Camp  with  one  fossee  and  a  kind  of  terrace 
round  the  Camp.  We  saw  the  Roman  road  plainly;  it  is  over- 
grown with  heath,  and  the  soil  is  become  black  by  the  rotting 
of  the  Vegetables,  I  observed  about  two  or  three  yards  from  it 
on  both  sides  small  holes,  not  deep  enough  to  be  dangerous, 
which  doubtless  were  made  to  supply  gravel  for  the  road : 

In  the  way  to  Sir  William  Sterling's  house  is  a  break  in  the 
bank  near  the  village,  where  he  found  stones  that  formed  three 

1  Drummond  Castle  was  destroyed  by  fire  during  the  Rebellion  of  1745,  but 
was  partly  rebuilt  in  1822.     The  estates  descended  through  a  daughter  of  the 
Earl  of  Perth   to  the   family  now   represented   by   the   Baroness   Willoughby 

-d'Eresby. 

2  See  Stuart's  Caledonia  Romana,  p.  60. 


ARDOCH.  241 

little  caves  which  he  opened,  and  in  each  there  was  a  Skeleton, 
and  probably  there  were  more.  If  Julius  Agricola's  forces 
were  worsted  in  this  place  by  the  attack  of  the  Caledonians 
according  to  Tacitus,  the  Caledonians  might  have  burried  their 
dead  here :  Sir  William  showed  us  a  small  Urn1  of  Earth  found 
in  a  Camp  with  the  usual  ornaments  of  lines,  it  contained 
pieces  of  a  burnt  Skull  which  I  saw,  he  said  also  that  a  pipe  of 
Lead  about  8  inches  in  Diameter  with  a  bore  of  six  inches  but 
not  long,  was  found  in  the  camp.  And  to  the  North  of  the 
Camp  is  a  small  Mount,  from  which  the  General  might 
harrangue  the  soldiers. 

Six  miles  from  this  place  is  Dumblane  on  this  river,  and  on 
this  side  of  it  we  saw  Sheriff  Muir  where  the  Duke  of  Argyle 
beat  the  rebels  under  Lord  Marr  on  the  13  of  Nov.  1715. 

Sr Sterling  father  of  Sr  Wm  on  some  Disgust  in  the 

beginning  of  this  Century  went  into  the  Russian  Service  & 
lived  in  that  Country  for  40  years,  marrying  the  Daughter  of 
General  Gordon.  He  returned  &  died  at  home :  His  Son 
showed  me  the  Statue  of  a  Urus  about  4  inches  long  in  silver 
weighing  about  a  pound ;  it  was  found  in  Siberia,  there  were 
rivets  in  the  horns,  so  that  probably  it  was  a  sort  of  pedestal 
for  something  fixed  on  it ;  He  showed  me  also  a  piece  of  Amber 
2  inches  and  a  half  long,  and  about  half  of  a  small  fish  like  a 
young  herring  was  enclosed  in  it ;  the  head  and  eyes  being  most 
perfect.  I  saw  also  a  small  dish  about  a  foot  in  Diameter,  on 
the  outside  there  is  embossed  work,  enamelled  &  likewise  on 
the  inside  in  several  compartments,  are  enamelled  figures  which 
seemed  to  be  scripture  history  with  russian  inscriptions  round 
them. 

To  the  West  in  the  Country  of  Monteith  lives  Mr.  Erskine  2 
who  has  writ  the  best  abridgement  of  the  Scotch  laws. — I  am, 
&c. 

1  '  An  urn,  filled  with  ashes,  a  fragment  of  the  unburnt  skull,  and  a  piece  of 
money.     The  last  had,  in  all  probability,  been  put  into  the  mouth  of  the  deceased 
as  the  fare  of  Charon,  for  wafting  him  over  Styx.' — Pennant's  Tour  Scot.,  1772, 
pt.  3,  p.  103.     See  Old Stat.  Ac.  Scot.,  vol.  viii.  p.  495. 

2  John  Erskine  of  Carnock,  afterwards  of  Cardross  in  Menteith,  author  of  the 
Institutes  of  the  Law  of  Scotland. 


242  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LETTER  XLVIII. 

DRUMMOND  CASTLE,  z^d  August  1760. 

D  SISTER, — From  the  Castle  Camp  near  Ardock  we  went  to 
the  East,  and  crossed  the  road  which  leads  to  Queensferry 
opposite  to  Edinburgh  and  soon  came  to  the  park  wall,  and 
then  to  the  Church  of  Tullibarden,1  to  which  there  is  a  Saxon 
door,  old  narrow  windows,  and  some  that  are  Gothic :  It  is  in 
form  of  a  Cross,  and  at  the  East  End  is  the  burial  place  of  the 
Tullibarden  family  who  married  the  heiress  of  Athol  that 
brought  them  the  Dunkeld  and  Blair  Estate  to  which  they 
removed  :  Their  names  were  Stewart,  but  on  this  marriage,  they 
took  the  name  of  Murray  of  the  Athol  family.  Sir  David 
Murray  Ancestor  of  the  Duke  founded  here  in  1446  a  Collegiate 
Church  in  honour  of  our  blessed  Saviour  with  a  Provost  and 
some  Prebendaries.  Here  is  a  sort  of  a  small  wooden  Catafalch 
placed  over  the  tomb  (as  one  informed  us)  of  Patrick  Earl  of 
Tulibarden.  The  old  Castle  is  standing  and  was  inhabited  by 
Lord  George  Murray : 

We  came  back  to  the  Edinburgh  road,  and  so  again  through 
Muthil  where  I  saw  a  soldier  98  years  old,  who  had  been  under 
Charles  12th  at  the  battle  of  Pultowa: 2  Here  is  a  Nonjuring 
Congregation  of  about  100.  And  there  are  a  few  papists  about 
the  Castle.  They  have  no  Limestone  in  this  Country  except  a 
little  which  is  very  bad  and  is  found  in  the  Roadway  from  the 
Castle  to  the  Camp  near  Comery.3 

The  Texati  seem  to  have  inhabited  Aberdeenshire ;  the 
Vacomagi  Moray  Bamfshire  and  part  of  Perthshire  to  the  Erne, 
the  Caledonii  and  Silva  Caledonia  seem  to  have  included  the 
rest  of  Perthshire  and  the  East  parts  of  Inverness  Shire  and 
Ross  Shire,  the  western  parts  of  those  Shires  being  inhabited  by 
the  Cerones.  The  Venicontes,  the  Vecturones  of  the  New  Map, 
inhabitted  Fife,  among  whom  Banatia  is  thought  to  be  Orrock 
by  which  I  take  to  be  meant  the  Camp  or  town  on  Lough  Or. 

1  Which  now  gives  the  title  of  Marquis  of  Tullibardine  to  the  Duke  of  Athole's 
eldest  son.  -  Fought  July  8,  1709.  3  Comrie. 


TULLIBARDINE,  MUTHILL.  243 

But  of  this  I  have  spoken  more  fully  above,1  from  the  light  I 
have  since  had  from  the  New  Map. 

At  Tallibarden  we  were  very  near  Kilcarden  an  old  Castle  of 
the  Duke  of  Montroses.  Strath  ern,  or  rather  the  river  Erne  is 
thought  to  be  Terne  of  the  Classical  writers :  The  Earl  of 
Perth  was  Hereditary  Stewart  of  Stratherne :  as  the  Athol 
family  were  of  Athol  and  Stormont  two  other  parts  of  Perthshire. 

I  made  an  excursion  from  Drummond  Castle  to  the  West, 
and  descended  the  hill  near  to  Balluck,2  an  old  ruined  house  on 
a  lake  which  was  an  Apenage  to  the  family  of  Perth  :  We  went 
near  the  hill  of  the  Beacon,3  and  over  the  fort  of  it,  and  came 
into  a  beautifull  Valley,  through  which  the  river  Erne  runs : 
This  plain  is  encompassed  with  an  Amphitheatre  of  hills ;  we 
went  along  the  South  Side  of  it,  and  in  four  computed  miles 
from  Drummond  Castle  came  to  the  rivulet  called  Urghill4 
where  it  falls  into  the  Erne  from  the  South  : 

A  little  above  this  confluence  on  the  old  bed  of  the  former, 
is  that  Camp  which  is  supposed  to  be  the  Camp  of  Julius 
Agricola  immediately  before  he  engaged  and  defeated  Galgacus. 
It  is  called  Galgan  Ross :  Here  it  is  supposed  Julius  came  to 
Attack  the  Caledonians,  and  as  he  was  determined  to  fight  he 
probably  made  only  this  slight  entrenchment  to  his  Camp : 
The  Caledonians  were  on  the  hills  and  seem  to  have  come  to 
them ;  there  is  an  entrenchment  on  three  sides,  the  Banks  to 
the  old  bed  of  the  river  making  the  South  Side ;  about  fifty 
yards  within  this  is  another  which  I  judge  to  be  a  sort  of 
Praetorium  :  about  100  yards  to  the  South  of  it  is  a  Camp  with 
a  very  slight  fossee,  on  three  sides  of  which  about  the  middle  at 
the  Entrances  is  a  Semicircular  fossee ;  from  the  Eastern 
Entrance  is  a  road  made  to  the  Northern  way  into  it,  which  is 
continued  to  the  Entrance  into  the  other  Camp  on  the  North 
Side  of  it.  I  looked  attentively  to  see  if  any  line  was  drawn 
from  each  Angle  of  the  inner  Camp  to  the  large  one,  but  could 
observe  none.  The  fosses  are  all  single,  those  of  the  inner 
Camp  are  strongest ;  near  the  South  Entrance  of  the  great 
Camp  within  it  is  a  great  stone  set  up  on  end,  and  a  little 
further  another  with  three  small  ones  near  it,  which  might  be 
placed  over  Aulus  Atticus  Commander  of  a  Cohort  who  fell  in 

1  See  p.  1 80.  2  Balloch.  3  The  Eagle's  Craig.  4  The  Ruchill. 


244  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

this  action.  This  Camp  indeed  seems  only  to  have  been  begun  ; 
the  Caledonians  probably  giving  them  an  opportunity  of 
Engaging  immediately  after  the  Romans  came  here  and  began 
this  Entrenchment.  According  to  the  opinion  among  the 
learned,  the  Caledonians  might  attack  the  9th  Legion  at  Ardock 
and  the  Camp  might  afterwards  be  strengthened  by  stronger 
ramparts :  or  it  might  have  been  at  the  Camp  at  Strageth. 

The  river  Urghill  comes  out  of  a  valley  to  the  South  West, 
and  the  Erne  from  another  to  the  North  West,  and  about  six 
miles  higher  is  Lough  Erne  which  is  a  mile  broad  and  five  miles 
long,  and  at  the  end  of  it  is  the  road  from  Sterling  and  Fort 
William,  which  is  joyned  by  the  road  from  Glasgow  at  some 
Distance  to  the  North  of  Loughlowmon :  To  this  place,  where 
there  are  two  bridges  one  over  the  Erne  and  another  over  a 
rivulet  which  falls  into  it  from  the  North,  the  Country  has 
made  a  fine  road  from  Crief,  and  purpose  to  continue  it  on  to 
the  road  which  leads  to  Fort  William : 

In  this  road  we  returned  on  the  North  side  of  the  river  and 
passed  by  a  fine  place  and  house  called  Laws l  belonging  to  the 
late  General  Campbell,  and  now  to  his  son,  the  heir  and  Cousin 
German  to  Lord  London ;  It  is  under  the  hill,  on  the  side  of 
which  are  fine  plantations.  About  two  miles  further  we  came 
to  Auchtertyr 2  Sr  Patrick  Murray "s  ;  Before  we  got  to  it,  we 
entered  in  between  the  hills  which  extend  to  the  East  about 
two  miles  near  to  Crief,  they  are  uneven  at  top  and  covered 
with  wood,  mostly  firr,  and  afford  that  beautifull  prospect  I 
mentioned  in  the  road  to  Drummond  Castle.  Sr  Patrick  V 
house  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill  covered  with  wood  &  over 
a  lake  in  which  there  is  an  old  castle  on  a  peninsula.  The 
plantations  of  this  hill  are  seen  over  the  other  hills. 

At  the  East  End  of  them  we  had  seen  in  going  a  very  pretty 
place  of  Mr.  Campbells,  who  has  another  Seat3  which  I  saw  in 
the  vale,  before  I  came  to  Crief,  where  there  is  a  fine  room 
built  for  a  library  as  mentioned  before.  We  went  under  Crief, 
crossed  the  Erne  over  a  bridge,  and  turned  to  the  West  round 
the  hill  and  near  the  wood  to  Drummond  Castle,  instead  of 
going,  as  I  did  at  first  along  the  high  road  to  Sterling :  having 
had  an  extream  pleasant  ride  round  these  beautiful  romantick 
vales. — I  am,  &c. 

1  Lawers.  -  Ochtertyre.  3  See  p.  239. 


LAWERS,  OCHTERTYRE,  MADDERTY.       245 


LETTER  XLIX. 

METHUEN,  August  the  2$tk,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  25th  I  set  out  and  travelled  three 
miles  west  to  Strageth,  and  saw  the  remains  of  the  Roman 
Camp  there  which  are  very  inconsiderable :  The  river  Erne 
was  plainly  to  the  East,  and  probably  was  to  the  North,  £ 
there  is  a  small  brook  to  the  South,  along  which  there  is  an 
Outwork  ;  The  fossee  of  the  Camp  being  carried  in  a  strait 
line :  There  are  the  remains  of  two  deep  fossess  to  the  west  at 
the  South  West  Corner,  but  to  the  North  they  have  been 
destroyed,  tho  there  are  remains  of  some  irregular  works  as 
within  the  supposed  ramparts.  From  this  place  it  is  said  there 
was  a  line  to  the  Camp  Castle1  mentioned  before,  and  I  suppose 
a  sight  of  the  Castle  from  some  place  near : 

Here  is  a  ford  over  the  river,  and  a  ferry  boat  also  to  Inver- 
peffery2  where  from  an  Eminence  in  the  Church  yard  that  com- 
mands both  the  reaches  of  the  river  whicli  here  makes  a  turn, 
is  a  Church  divided  into  three  parts,  to  the  East  is  the  burial 
place  of  the  Perth  Branch  of  the  Drummond  family,  to  the 
West  of  the  Maderty  branch,  and  in  the  middle  Lord  Strath- 
aliens,  who  forfeited  in  the  Rebellion  of  1715 :  The  last  Lord 
Maderty  left  the  Estate  to  the  Second  Son  of  the  Duplin 
family  (Hay)  the  issue  of  a  Niece,  in  case  the  descendants  of 
another  Niece  should  be  extinct,  which  event  happening,  the 
Estate,  about  ^lOOO  a  year,  is  by  that  Disposition  come  to  the 
Bishop  of  St.  Asaph,  who  upon  coming  into  possession  took  the 
name  of  Drummond. 

The  same  Lord  Maderty3  left  an  income  to  build  and  found 
a  library,  with  a  Salary  for  a  librarian,  on  a  spot  where  there 
was  a  small  building  in  which  he  had  his  Library  to  the  West 
of  the  Church,  &  where  he  lived  entirely  abstracted  from  the 
World  ;  here  they  have  built  a  handsome  room,  over  some  con- 

1  See  p.  240.     Kemp  or  Camp  Castle.     Pennant's  Tour,  1772,  pt.  II,  p.  IOO. 

2  Innerpeffary.  3  David,  Lord  Madderty. 


246          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

venient  apartments  for  a  Librarian,  who,  with  the  books,  is  to 
be  fixed  there  : 

Here  was  an  enclosure  with  a  round  tower  at  each  Corner, 
and  from  it  there  is  a  fine  avenue  to  an  indifferent  house,  where 
that  Lord  had  formerly  lived :  we  passed  the  house  and  going 
a  little  North,  we  soon  came  to  the  Roman  Road  from  Strageth 
to  Perth  which  is  seen  across  the  heath,  and  enters  into  Garth 
wood  which  is  a  plantation  of  Firrs,  and  afterwards  passed  by 
the  wood  of  Duplin  ;  and  I  was  told  goes  to  Couper  in  Angus, 
which  I  doubt,  and  should  rather  think  that  it  went  to  the 
Fort  or  Camp  at  Lough  Or  &  so  to  the  Wall : 

We  turned  to  the  North  down  to  Inchaffray  Abbey  in  a 
Valley,  through  which  the  river  Pou1  runs,  which  rises  a  little  to 
the  East ;  another  rivulet  of  same  name  rising  very  near  it,  and 
runs  to  the  East :  It  is  probable  that  the  place  was  made  an 
island  by  a  fossee.  The  Etymology  of  Inchaffray  being  the  Isle 
of  Masses  (Insula  Missarum)  for  it  was  an  Abbey  founded  by 
Gilbert,  Earl  of  Strathern  in  1200  for  Canons  regular  of  St. 
Augustine  brought  from  Scone  James  Drummond  having 
obtained  it  of  Alexander  Gordon  Bishop  of  Galloway,  it  was 
erected  by  James  6th  in  1607  into  a  Lordship  under  the  title 
of  Maderty  from  the  Parish  Church  of  that  name  which  we 
passed  &  is  a  little  to  the  South  of  it:  The  family  lived 
here  until  within  these  70  or  80  years.  There  is  nothing 
remaining  but  a  little  part  of  the  North  East  pillar  of  the 
tower  of  the  Church  which  was  in  the  middle  of  it  as  appears 
by  the  great  ruins  ;  to  the  South  of  the  Church  is  an  Enclosure 
and  a  Gable  End  with  a  Chimney  to  it,  called  the  Fraters 
house,  with  an  arched  vault  made  of  hewn  stone,  this  might  be 
the  Dormitory,  as  the  Enclosure  probably  was  the  Cloyster. 

Crossing  the  rivulet  on  a  bridge,  I  saw  above  and  below  it  a 
large  dike  made  to  Drain  the  ground,  which  is  an  exceeding 
rich  soil :  And  tho  it  certainly  would  produce  very  fine  wheat 
flax  and  hemp,  yet  we  saw  it  under  Oats  and  barley,  As  they 
have  a  notion  that  they  have  no  manure  for  Wheat :  For  in 
these  parts  there  is  no  Wheat  except  what  is  eat  in  the 
Gentlemen's  houses:  They  plough  without  intermission,  one 
year  barley  manured,  the  other  year  Oats  without  manure :  and 

1  River  Pow  or  Powaffray. 


INCHAFFREY,  METHVEN.  247 

so  to  the  Gates  of  Perth  they  have  indeed  some  Wheat  close  to 
that  town,  where  they  might  turn  their  flat  ground  to  much 
better  account  in  Meadowing,  being  the  finest  soil  for  it,  but 
all  is  under  Corn,  which,  'tis  said,  is  owing  to  the  little 
expence  they  have  in  tilling  the  ground,  which  brings  very 
fine  Crops : 

We  saw  to  the  west  Mr.  Murray's1  of  Abercarney,  and  going 
on,  passed  by  Balgouan2  Mr  Graham's,  married  to  Lord  Hopton's 
Sister.  It  is  a  fine  house  and  situation,  and  highly  improved 
by  plantations,  there  being  a  riding  all  round  his  Demesne. 
About  Inchafferay  we  came  into  the  fine  road  made  by  the 
Country  from  Crief  to  Perth,  which  goes  a  little  Distance  from 
the  Eastern  Port,  and  passes  through  the  Village  of  Methuen. 

The  Parish  Church  here  was  Collegiate  for  a  Provost  and 
Prebendaries,  founded  by  Walter  Stewart  Earl  of  Athol,  one  of 
the  sons  of  Rob*  lid,  the  Church  is  entirely  altered,  but  there 
is  one  Gothic  window  at  the  South  End  of  the  transcept. 
Margaret  of  England,  Dowager  of  James  4th  purchased  this 
place  for  her  third  husband  Henry  Stewart  who  was  of  the 
Royal  family,  whom  she  got  to  be  made  a  Baron  by  James  the 
5th. 

The  Road  passes  by  the  Garden  of  Mr.  Smith  of  Methuen 
half  a  mile  beyond  the  Village  :  We  went  to  this  gentleman's 
house,  which  is  a  good  building  with  a  round  Turret  at  each 
Corner,  in  a  most  delightfull  situation,  there  being  a  fine 
Terrace  which  commands  a  view  of  the  beautifull  Vale,  of  the 
hills,  and  mountains  (which  are  at  a  due  distance)  of  the  Firr 
woods  of  Duplin  and  Perth  and  of  Huntingtore,  which  afford  all- 
together  a  most  rich  scene ;  and  all  the  Country  is  under  Corn. 

Here  I  saw  the  picture3  of  the  great  uncle  of  this  gentleman 
by  the  great  grandmother,  whose  name  was  Creightoun,  who 
for  his  great  capacity  and  learning  was  called  the  Admirable 
Creightoun.  He  was  Tutor  to  the  Prince  of  Mantoua,  who  (for 
a  cause  not  known,  but  is  intimated  to  be  some  affair  of 
Gallantry)  with  the  Russians  that  were  present,  as  'tis  sup- 
posed, undertook  to  murder  him,  attacked  Creighton ;  He 

1  The  Morays  of  Abercairny.  -  Balgonie. 

3  Engraved  in  Pennant's  Tour,  1769,  PI.  xl. ;  also  a  Memoir  of  James 
Crighton,  ibid,  pp.  313-328. 


248  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

defended  himself  with  great  courage  and  was  just  dispatching 
the  prince,  who  presently  dropped  his  Mask,  on  which  Creighton 
presented  the  handle  of  his  sword  to  the  prince,  who  instantly 
murdered  him :  on  which  ace*  it  is  said,  the  Duke  his  father 
refused  a  great  while  to  see  him.  Another  Sister  of  Creighton 
married  Bishop  Graham  of  Orkney.  There  is  an  ace*  of  this 
Creighton  in  Mackenzie's  Scotch  Worthies. 

From  this  place  I  was  shown  Longcartie,  where  in  980  there 
was  a  battle  with  the  Danes  called  Hay's  battle  :l  for  the  Scotch 
giving  way,  one  Hay  who  was  at  plough  with  his  two  sons,  took 
up  the  beam  of  the  plough  to  which  the  oxen  were  yoked,  and 
went  with  his  two  Sons,  armed  with  a  plough  share  and  yoke, 
reproached  them  for  flying,  made  them  rally  and  led  them  on, 
doing  execution  with  the  plough  Tackle  ;  by  which  they  gained 
the  victory ;  and  the  King  ordering  the  man  to  be  brought  to 
him,  directed  that  as  much  ground  should  be  given  to  him  as  a 
hawk  could  fly  over ;  which  was  all  the  way  to  the  parish  of 
Errol,  where  they  say  the  hawk's  stone  remains,  showing  the 
flight  about  two  miles  to  the  west  of  Mr.  Crawford's  of  Errol. 
&  this  person  was  the  founder  of  the  Kinoul  family,  which 
have  the  action  represented  at  Duplin  in  two  or  three  paint- 
ings, and  small  statues  in  wood  of  this  old  Man  and  his  Sons, 
with  their  weapons  in  their  hands,  which  are  the  supporters  of 
their  Arms. 

I  saw  also  the  Mountain  called  Dunsinan 2  which  is  the 
Southern  Summit  of  that  hill  which  I  passed  from  Dundee  to 
Couper.  On  this  Mountain  Macbeth  had  his  house,  of  which 
the  foundations  are  still  seen,  and  it  is  mentioned  in  the  tragedy 
of  Macbeth. — I  am,  &c. 

1  Battle  of  Luncarty.     See  Hist.  Scottish  Wars,  second  edition,  1825,  p.  25. 

a  '  On  the  hill  of  Dunsinane  was  fought  the  renowned  battle  between  Macbeth, 
the  Thane  of  Glammis,  and  Seward,  Earl  of  Northumberland.  Edward  the 
Confessor  had  sent  Seward  on  behalf  of  Malcolm  in.,  whose  father,  Duncan,  the 
thane  and  usurper  had  murdered.  Macbeth,  who  was  signally  defeated,  was 
pursued,  it  is  said,  to  Lumphanan  in  Aberdeenshire,  and  there  slain,  1057.  The 
history  of  Macbeth  is  the  subject  of  Shakespeare's  incomparable  drama.' 


LUNCARTY,  DUPPLIN.  249 

LETTER  L. 

PERTH,  Augtist  the  2"jth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  26th  Mr.  Smith  accompanied  me: 
this  gentleman  has  planted  the  road  on  each  side,  in  so  much 
that  the  Country  looks  like  that  which  is  between  Chantilly 
and  Paris.  A  battle1  was  fought  here  on  the  19th  of  June 
1300. 

We  soon  came  to  Tibbermoor  a  small  village  and  church  ; 
on  the  heath  to  the  North  East  near  the  North  End  of  Duplin 
Woods,  The  Earl  of  Montrose  had  an  engagement  on  the  llth 
of  September  1644.  We  went  on  to  the  west  of  Duplin  Wood, 
where  the  Roman  Road  enters  it,  and  the  ridge  of  rocks  comes  to 
it  which  is  broader,  and  covered  much  with  heath :  we  came  to 
Duplin  house  to  which  there  is  a  handsome  Front  to  the  North 
and  large  offices.  There  is  a  narrow  Gully  to  the  East,  and  a 
terrace  to  the  South,  which  as  well  as  the  house  commands  a 
most  glorious  view  of  the  windings  of  the  Erne,  of  a  most 
beautifull  vale,  of  the  hills  to  the  East  and  South,  and  of  the 
Mountains  of  Fife  beyond  them :  The  place  is  on  all  sides 
adorned  with  plantations,  and  there  are  some  very  good  pictures2 
in  the  house,  particularly  a  Titian  with  three  figures,  one  of 
which  is  much  like  Raphael,  when  he  was  very  young.  Lord 
Kinoul  is  fitting  up  this  charming  place  for  his  residence. 

We  descended  from  Duplin,  took  leave  of  Mr.  Drummond 
and  came  across  the  hills  to  the  East  to  Elcho  which  gives 
title  to  Lord  Wems^s  eldest  son  :3  We  came  to  the  part  called 
Elchow  Wester,  Elchow  Easter  where  Lord  Wems  has  a  larger 
house  being  a  mile  lower  on  the  Tay : 

I  came  to  see  what  remained  of  a  Nunnery4  of  Cistercians 

1  Battle  of  Methven,  igthjuly  1306.     See  Hist.  Scottish  Wars,  second  edition, 
1825,  p.  60. 

2  For  a  catalogue  of  the  pictures  in  Dupplin  House,  see  Pennant's   Tours, 
1769,  p.  85;   ibid.  1772,  pt.  II,  pp.   80-88.     Bulloch's  George  Jamesone,   The 
Scottish   Vandyck,  1885,  p.  150,  and  for  portraits  of  the  first  Earl  of  Kinnoull, 
see  Dixon's  Gairloch,  Its  Records,  Traditions,  etc.,  1886,  pp.  75  and  82. 

3  Lord  Elcho,  eldest  son  of  the  Earl  of  Wemyss  and  March. 

4  Nunnery  founded  by  David  Lyndsay  of  Glenesk,  at  Grange  of  Elcho,  parish 
of  Rhynd. 


250  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

founded  by  David  Lindsay  of  Glenert  and  his  mother :  Nothing 
is  to  be  seen  of  it  but  the  tower  of  the  Church  and  the  founda- 
tions of  buildings :  Nearly  opposite  to  this,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river  is  Kinfauns  the  Estate  of  Miss  Blair,  now  Lady  Gray, 
by  whom  that  Lord  is  entitled  to  .£2400  a  year  a  large  estate. 

We  turned  to  the  North,  towards  Perth,  and  passed  under 
Magdalenes  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  and  then  by  Leonard  in  the 
plain,  a  Priory  of  Cistercian  Nuns  founded  before  1296 :  But 
James  1st  suppressed  it,  and  annexed  it  to  the  Charterhouse  of 
Perth,  together  with  the  Magdalene  lands : 

We  came  to  Perth  by  the  finest  turnpike  road  in  Britain, 
which  leads  from  Edinburgh.  It  is  said  that  a  small  City 
called  Berth  was  with  all  the  inhabitants,  and  a  child  of  a  King 
of  Scotland  destroyed  by  a  great  inundation  ;  The  Tradition  is 
that  this  City  was  on  the  North  side  of  the  Almond,  which 
falls  into  the  Tay,  two  miles  to  the  North  of  the  town  : 

King  William  the  Lyon  built  Perth  in  a  better  position :  It 
was  afterwards  called  St.  Johnstoun  of  Perth,  from  the  Parish 
Church  :  But  it  has  recovered  its  ancient  name  of  Perth  :  It  is 
said  that  the  English,  in  the  war  between  the  Bruces  and 
Baliols,  fortified  it,  but  that  afterwards  these  fortifications 
were  destroyed  ;  it  was  however  walled  round  ;  for  three  of  the 
gates  remain,  that  to  the  North  was  called  Castle  Gavel,1  where 
probably  in  ancient  times  there  was  a  Castle :  Cromwell  took 
this  town  and  built  a  fortress  at  the  South  End  of  it,  the 
ramparts  of  which  remain.  This  place  is  most  delightfully 
situated  in  a  most  beautifull  country,  there  are  small  hills  to 
the  South  and  west,  the  fine  river  Tay  and  a  rising  ground 
beyond  it  to  the  East :  it  is  open  to  the  North  on  which  side 
is  adorned  with  noble  plantations,  among  which  are  those  of 
Bussy,  belonging  to  Lord  Kinoul,  a  furlong  from  the  town: 
and  what  adds  greatly  to  the  Picture  the  water  of  the  Almond, 
2  miles  distant,  is  brought  round  the  town  :  and  in  summer  is 
entirely  carried  off  this  way ;  at  each  end  of  the  town  is  a  large 
Green  belonging  to  the  Community,  which  are  let  by  the  town 
at  so  much  a  head  for  Cattle ;  and  the  North  Green  is  much 

1  The  castle  of  Perth  was  demolished  by  King  Robert  Bruce.  The  Castle 
Gable — the  street  on  the  east  of  it,  was  the  only  entrance  to  the  town  from  the 
north  in  1 760. 


PERTH.  251 

used  for  bleaching  and  washing :  The  Town  consists  chiefly  of 
two  streets,  from  East  to  West,  near  half  a  measured  mile  long, 
and  two  streets  which  extend  one  to  the  South,  and  the  other 
to  the  North  from  the  great  street. 

The  Parish  Church  of  St.  John  is  a  large  handsome  building 
which  has  been  adorned  with  Gothic  Windows,  for  on  the  South 
side  over  the  Quire  are  narrow  windows  of  three  arches  with  a 
sort  of  a  plain  frieze  round  them  in  the  old  Saxon  Style ;  with 
a  Spire  on  the  tower  covered  with  lead :  There  are  five  arches 
in  the  body  and  in  the  Quire  which  form  two  separate  Churches, 
in  one  of  them  is  the  Seat  in  which  the  King  used  to  sit.  There 
is  a  fine  doorcase  with  many  members  in  the  Saxon  Style  which 
was  brought  from  the  Carthusians,  and  so  probably  were  some 
of  the  windows.  The  Franciscan  Observantines  had  a  Monas- 
tery here  where  the  burial  place  is  to  the  South,  founded  by 
Lord  Oliphant  in  1461.  To  the  North  of  the  Walls  of  the 
town  was  the  Monastery  of  the  Dominicans  opposite  to  the 
gate,  where  there  are  now  houses  and  Gardens.  James  the  1st 
was  murdered  in  this  house,  and  buried  at  the  Carthusians 
here,  which  he  had  founded  in  1429  after  his  return  from  his 
Imprisonment  in  England.  The  Carthusians  was  a  fine  Monas- 
tery ;  where  the  hospital  now  stands  for  decayed  housekeepers : 
The  Water  brought  from  the  Almond,  runs  to  the  East  of  it, 
on  which  they  probably  had  their  Cells,  Chapels  and  Gardens ; 
and  in  a  garden  beyond  that  of  the  hospital,  they  had  their 
fish  ponds,  of  which  there  are  still  some  marks ;  It  was  called 
Monasterium  Vallis  Virtutis,  and  was  the  only  Monastery  of 
Carthusians  in  Scotland. 

James  the  6th  granted  to  George  Hay  a  Peerage  under  the 
title  of  Lord  of  the  Charterhouse  of  Perth,  and  the  rents  being 
too  small  to  support  the  Peerage  he  resigned  it  to  the  King, 
who  accepted  it ;  which  practice  of  Resigning  Peerages  has  been 
common  in  Scotland,  but  as  matter  of  favour  to  some  particular 
persons : 

The  Hospital  is  a  grand  fabric  built  out  of  the  Estates  that 
were  in  the  hands  of  the  Corporation  for  the  use  of  the  poor : 

When  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  passed  through  Perth  after 
the  battle  of  Culloden,  the  town  made  him  a  present  of  Earl 
Gowrie's  house,  in  which  the  famous  conspiracy  is  said  to  have 


252          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

been  carried  on.  It  is  built  something  like  a  Castle,  what  is 
standing  of  the  old  fabrick  is  an  L.  I  saw  the  room  in  which 
the  Conspirators  dined ;  and  the  room  to  which  the  King  was 
led,  the  window  out  of  which  he  called,  and  the  Cupboard  where 
the  armed  man  was  placed.  There  was  another  Stair  Case  by 
a  turret,  as  I  suppose,  from  abroad,  which  is  now  taken  down : 
on  the  whole  I  find  the  story  of  the  Conspiracy  is  generally 
disbelieved  in  Scotland :  Some  suspect  there  was  a  design  to 
carry  the  King  to  England,  others  to  intimidate  him  for  certain 
purposes,  and  the  exceeding  good  character  of  the  Persons  con- 
cerned induce  others  to  cast  reflections  on  the  King  himself.1 

Two  miles  from  the  town  beyond  the  hills  to  the  North 
West,  was  Ruthven  Earl  Gowrie's  Seat,  which  from  that  time 
changed  its  name  by  Act  of  Parliament,  and  that  apellation 
was  for  ever  after  to  be  entirely  disused.  It  is  now  called 
Huntingtore2  and  is  the  Dower  house  at  present  of  the  Dutchess 
of  Athol  who  lives  in  it. 

They  have  a  town  house  &  Jayl  at  the  end  of  the  great 
Street  by  the  upper  Quay,  and  two  Quays  lower  down,  and  to 
that  which  is  most  distant,  a  ship  of  near  a  hundred  tons  can 
come  up.  There  was  a  bridge  here  over  the  Tay,  but  it  was 
carried  away  by  the  floods :  They  export  from  the  river  at  this 
place  and  Dundee  to  the  value  of  <£*!  0,000  in  Salmon,  the 
pickled  to  London,  and  Salt  Salmon  to  Holland  to  be  sent  to 
Spain,  of  ^10,000  in  Wheat  and  Barley,  of  ^150,000  in  Linnen  : 
they  have  also  a  great  trade  in  Skins  of  all  sorts  from  the 
North  of  Scotland  :  And  they  are  famous  for  weaving  Damask 
Table  linnen. 

A  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  West  was  Tullilum  where  a  Con- 
vent of  Carmelites  was  founded  by  Richard  Bishop  of  Dunkeld 
in  1262,  where  the  Synods  for  the  Diocese  were  held  untill  they 
were  removed  to  Dunkeld.  For  more  particulars  of  the  history 
of  this  town  I  refer  to  the  annexed  paper  containing  Extracts 
relating  the  history  &  state  of  Perth.  Soon  after  I  arrived 
the  Provost3  and  another  of  the  Corporation  came  to  see  me 

1  The  Cowrie  conspiracy  is  clearly  proved  in  Tytler's  Hist,  of  Scot.,  vol.  iv. 
pp.  276-296. 

2  Ruthven  Castle,  or  Huntingtower.     For  plans  and  views  see  MacGibbon 
and  Ross's  Castellated  Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887,  vol.  i.  pp.  395-401. 

3  Lord  Provost  William  Stuart. 


PERTH.  253 

and  with  great  politeness  showed  me  everything  about  the 
town,  and  in  the  evening  presented  me  with  the  freedom1  of  the 
place. — I  am,  &c. 

SUMMARY  FROM  THE  PRINCIPAL  WRITS  2  IN  .RELATION  TO  PERTH. 

1.  King   William     the     Founders    Charter    granting     many 

Liberties  priveledges  and  immunities  Dated  Anno  1210. 

2.  King  Robert  the  2d  Charter  of  Confirmation  granting  all 

fines  specified  to  uphold  the  bridge  of  Tay.  Dated  May 
the  5th  the  10th  year  of  his  reign. 

3.  King  Robert  the  2d  Charter  of  fewfarms  for  rent  of  £80 

Sterling  dated  9th  October  the  Eleventh  year  of  his  reign. 

4.  King    David    the    Second's   Charter   ratifying    all   former 

Charters,  and  erecting  a  Guild  dated  the  10th  of  April, 
the  36  year  of  his  reign. 

5.  King  Robert  3d  Charter  of  Confirmation  dated  the  6th  of 

May  10th  year  of  his  reign. 

6.  King  Robert  3d  Charter  Conferring  the  ...  of  Sheriffship 

within  the  Borough  on  the  said  Borough  dated  10th  of 
April  4th  of  his  reign. 

7.  A  transump*  of  a  Charter  granted  by  ....  Containing 

the  offices  of  Sheriffship  and  Crownership  conferring  the 
fines  of  the  same  on  the  Borough  for  upholding  the 
bridge  of  Tay. 

8.  Two  Exemptions  for  passing  upon  assizes  if  the  Deed  be 

not  done  within  a  mile  of  the  town. 

9.  King  Robert  3d  2  Charters  disposing  the  fines  raised  upon 

Forestallers  and  a  part  of  the  Common  Muir  for  uphold- 
ing the  bridge  of  Tay. 

10.  A  part  of  the  Borough  Mach  on  Burgage  farms  disposed 

to  the  Chartreuse,  black  &  white  friers,  &c. 

11.  King  Robert  the  2d  grants  power  by  a  Charter  dated  the 

15th  day  of  March  the  16th  year  of  his  reign  for  the 
Borough  to  make  Statutes  and  laws  to  be  observed 
within  themselves. 

1  Mr.  William  MacLeish,  City-Clerk,  writes  :  '  Can  find  no  reference  to  the 
freedom  of  the  City  being  presented  to  Bishop  Pococke  in  or  about  1760.'     See 
notes,  pp.  3,  47,  168,  182,  183,  210. 

2  An  MS.  Index  of  the  Perth  Charters,  etc.,  is  in  the  City  Chambers :  it  con- 
sists of  forty-eight  numbers. 


254          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

12.  James  the  2d  by  Charter  Exempts  Perth  of  the  Custom 

of  Salt  and  Skins  &c.  dated  the  5th  of  March  1451. 

13.  James  the  5th  ratifies  the  Charter  of  James  the  2d. 

14.  The  24th  of  Decemb1 1458  Lord  Ruthven  Dispons  to  Perth, 

that  part  of  the  Common  Muir  called  Catside. 

15.  Perth  dispons  certain  lands  to  Robert  King  for  upholding 

the  Causeys  without  the  town  dated  the  8th  of  May 
1459. 

16.  An  Indenture  betwixt  Perth  and  Richd  Joiat  concerning 

the  boot1  of  Ballhoupe  dated  the  10th  of  June  1464. 

17.  Three  indentures  betwixt  Perth,  Lord  Ruthven  and  the 

Laird  of  Ballhoupe  anent  the  Miln  lead  and  Laws  work,1 
&c. 

18.  Two  Decreets  obtained  by  Perth  against  Dundee  one  dis- 

charging the  Toist  the  other  Confirming  the  Priority  of 
place  to  Perth,  &  a  Warrant  to  the  Earl  Marshall  to 
place  Perth  in  Parliament  next  to  Edinburgh. 

19.  A  Charter  of  Confirmation  granted  by  King  James   the 

Sixth  by  which  the  Bridge  of  Earn  and  the  Customs 
thereof  are  disponed  to  Perth,  the  said  Charter  also 
Contains  a  Confirmation  of  all  the  liberties  Priviledges 
and  immunities  of  the  Burgh  of  Perth  dated  Novembr 
15th  1600  with  a  seasin  following  thereupon. 

20.  A  Liberty  granted  by  the  Abbot  of  Dumfermling  to  Perth 

of  burying  within  the  Quire  of  the  Parish  Church  dated 
the  9th  of  June  1540  Confirmed  by  the  Arch  Bishop  of 
St.  Andrews. 

Queen  Ann  Consort  to  King  Jam8  the  6th  by  her 
Charter  grants  to  Perth  the  parsonage  and  Vicarage 
(reud)  tends  of  the  parish,  which  Charter  is  confirmed  by 
parliament. 

Perth  is  infeft  and  seised  in  the  Colledge  yard  and 
patronage  thereof  by  virtue  of  a  Charter  granted  it  by 
King  James  the  6th  and  his  Queen. 

A  Charter  Dated  the  10th  year  of  Robert  the  third 
is  the  first  I  can  find  wherein  anything  is  granted  for 
the  support  of  the  bridge  of  Tay. 

Charters  granted  by  the  King  to  the  town  of  Perth, 
1  See  NC~M  Stat.  Ac.  of  Scot.,  1845,  vo1-  x->  Article  Perth,  p.  73. 


PERTH.  255 

and  by  King  William  the  Lyon  1210.  One  by  King 
Robert  Bruce  ;  reign  12th. 

Two  by  King  Robert  the  2d  reign  4.  Four  by  King 
Robert  the  third,  one  by  James  2d,  one  by  James  5th 
a  Charter  of  Confirmation  of  all  the  above  by  James 
the  6th  1600. 

21.  A  Charge  direct  by  the  Kings  Majesty  to  possess  Perth  in 

the  fishing  of  Laughlan  all  being  submitted  by  the  town 
and  Lord  Oliphant  and  Directed  in  favour  of  Perth. 

22.  Two  remissions  granted  the  town  of  Perth  for  the  Down 

Casting  at  one  and  Down  pulling  at  another  the  house 
of  Duplin  dated  1461.  A  remission  for  burning  the 
house  of  Clackmannan  and  a  Discharge  from  the  Comp- 
troller for  ,£2000  ster.  imposed  upon  the  town  anent 
Clackmanans  affair.  Those  which  are  markd  [in  italics] 
are  unknown.  Laughlaio.  Insherrat,  Inshyr  &  Inch. 
King's  Inch.  Pynoree : l  Great  Customs.  Carnacks 
Strength.  St.  Johnstons  Hunts  up?  Dragon's  hole,  a 
cave  high  in  the  rock  of  the  hill  of  Kinoul. 

Windy  Fowle  the  hollow  betwixt  its  two  tops,  Earn 

side  wood  Eastward  of  Newburgh,  Wallace  town  betwixt 

Moncrief  &  Kilmonth,  St.    Cohells  Well  by  Ruthven 

now  Huntingtower,  Macbeth's  Castle  on  Dunsinan  hill. 

Wallace's  Cave  at  Kilspindice.     Lawtey  the  top  of 

Kinoul  hill.     More  down  the  hill  above  Montrief. 

From  Hollingshead.3     Cunsdag  King  of  Britain  built  three 

temples  one  at  Bangor  to  Mercury,  one  in  Cornwall  to  Apollo, 

and   one  at   Perth    to    Mars   which    was   repaired    by  Julius 

Agricola  in  the  reign  of  Domitian,  and  the  first  bridge  thrown 

over  the  Tay  at  Perth  and  a  Castle  built,  the  ruins  of  which 

are  still  called  the  Castle  Gavell.4     After  Bertha  was  swept 

away  by  an  inundation  of  the  river  Tay,  £  Almond,  King 

Willm  the  Lyon  founded  the  present  town  of  Perth  richly 

endowed  the  Community,  laying  the  foundations  of  the  walls 

which  were  afterwards  greatly  strengthened  by  Edward  the  1st 

of  England  whose  garrison  was  expelled  by  Wallace,  after  his 

1  See  The  Pynours  (i.e.  Shore  Porters),  by  John  Bulloch,  1887. 

2  '  St.  Johnstoun's  Hunt's  up  ! '  a  spirited  local  band.     See  Adamson's  Muses 
Threnodie,  edited  by  Cant  (1774),  p.  133. 

3  Holinshed's  Chronicles.  4  See  Note  2,  p.  250. 


256  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

abdication  it  was  retaken  and  repaired  by  the  English  who 
kept  possession  till  King  Robert  Bruce  besieged,  took  it  and 
raized  its  walls  to  the  ground.  The  town  continued  open  till 
after  the  Battle  of  Duplin,  when  the  Earls  of  March  and  Mar 
the  Goverrs  of  Scotland  were  overthrown.  Baliol  refortified  it, 
and  leaves  a  garrison  which  was  besieged  by  the  Earl  of  March 
and  after  3  months  taken,  &  razed  again.  King  Edward 
the  3d  takes  Perth  and  rebuilds  its  walls,  upon  it  charge  the  six 
abbacies,  viz.  Couper,  Lindores,  Balmerinock,  Dunfermling,  St. 
Andrews  and  Arbroath,  &  kept  a  garrison  there  till  it  was 
besieged  by  Robert  the  Second,  &  the  Eng811  expelled,  the  walls 
being  in  a  great  measure  demolished.  Thus  it  continued  till  a 
Burgess  was  killed  by  some  highlandmen  who  were  pursued  by 
the  Townsmen  to  a  place  called  Hoghmanstains  where  many 
were  killed  and  wounded,  on  which  occasion  to  Defend  them- 
selves it  was  refortified  by  the  inhabitants,  the  old  walls  serving 
for  the  foundations,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still  standing.  On 
King  William  the  Lyon's  founding  Perth  the  Temple  of  Mars 
the  Castle,  the  lines  of  a  Camp  and  the  ruins  of  the  Bridge  all 
Roman  works  were  extant.  On  the  spot  where  he  founded  the 
new  town  he  built  a  bridge  on  the  old  foundation  of  eleven 
arches  which  was  frequently  impaired  by  the  great  floods  in 
the  river  particularly  on  23d  Nov.  1567  when  the  bridge  of 
Almond  was  carried  away.  On  the  20  Decr  1573,  3  arches 
next  the  town  and  Lowswork  carried  away  but  soon  repaired 
in  1582  Jany  14  five  arches  carried  away,  and  likewise  soon 
rebuilt.  Decr  23d  1589  2  piers  were  carried  away  and  after- 
wards repaired,  but  on  the  14th  of  October  1621  the  bridge 
was  entirely  carryed  away,  and  never  yet  rebuilt,  in  1544  on 
St.  Magdalen's  day  was  fought  a  battle  on  the  bridge  of  Tay 
on  Cardinal  Bethun's  endeavouring  to  intrude  Kinstans  upon 
the  town  for  Provost,  wherein  many  were  slain,  a  number  of 
the  inhabitants  zealous  for  the  reformation  of  religion  took 
arms  in  order  to  appease  the  Cardinals  Cruel  usage  of  the 
Protestants,  fell  under  his  power,  all  agreeing  in  testimony  of 
their  resolution  to  put  a  hempen  cord  about  their  necks, 
wherewith  they  should  be  strangled  if  they  either  turned  their 
backs  or  denied  their  faith,  from  whence  a  rope  is  yet  called  a 
St.  Johnston's  ribband. 

Before  the  reformation  there  were  in  Perth  5  Monasteries 


PERTH.  257 

viz.,  Charterhouse  founded  by  James  1st  and  richly  endowed, 
he  was  hurried  there.  The  white  fryers,  the  black  fryars  or 
Augustines,  The  grey  fryers,  the  Carmelites  :  without  the  Town 
was  St.  Leonards,  Tullilum  and  St.  Magdalenes,  St.  John's  Church 
yet  extant,  St.  Mary's  by  the  North  Shore  :  where  the  jayl  now 
is  St.  Catherines,  and  by  the  theatre  St.  Paul's,  besides  the  Chapel 
of  the  holy  Cross,  St.  Annes  and  our  Ladys  of  Lorretto. 

A  Royal  palace  by  the  black  fryars,  from  the  garden  from 
which  King  Robert  was  a  witness  of  the  Battle1  fought  in  the 
north  inch  betwixt  the  Clans  Chatan  and  Kay,  and  the  Victory 
obtained  by  the  valour  of  Henry  Winder  a  sadler  of  Perth 
who  undertook  for  a  french  J  Crown  to  supply  the  place  of  one 
who  had  fled. 

Another  royal  palace  opposite  to  the  grammar  school  in  the 
South  Street,  Spey  tower  where  the  Spey  gate  is  now,  Monks 
tower  towards  South  gate  port. 

King  Malcolm  Kenmores  Castle  at  Fort  Eveot. 

The  Picts  entirely  routed  on  the  Moor  of  Scoon  having 
rallied  seven  times  in  one  day. 

The  Tower  of  Abernethy,  built  by  the  Picts  on  the  Grave 
of  one  of  their  Kings,  that  no  Scot  might  walk  or  ride  over  his 
belly.  JEneas  Julvius  was  legate  in  Scotland  when  James  the 
1  st  was  murdered ;  his  house  was  in  the  Meeting  house  Close 
north  side  of  the  High  Street. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LI. 

COWPER  IN  FIFE,  Augiist  zgth  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  27th  Mr.  Smith  of  Methuen  took 
leave  of  me,  and  two  Gentlemen  accompanied  me,  one  into 
whose  hands  he  put  me,  and  Mr.  Wood  Ld  Kinoul's  Agent, 
we  crossed  the  river  in  a  boat,  but  the  horses  forded.  We  rid 
two  measured  miles  to  the  side  of  the  Abbey  of  Scoone  founded 

1  Combat,  A.D.  1396,  between  30  of  the  Clan  Quhele  (or  Clan  Chattan)  and 
30  of  the  Clan  Kay  (or  Clan  Dhai — the  Davidsons,  a  sept  of  the  M'Phersons). 
One  of  the  combatants  having  retired,  or  deserted,  his  place  was  filled  by  Henry 
Wyncl,  called  An  Gobhcrom,  The  Crooked  Smith,  or  Bandy-legged  Smith. 
The  various  stories  of  this  brutal  encounter  are  somewhat  conflicting :  Winton, 
vol.  ii.  p.  373,  and  notes,  p.  518;  Fordun  a  Goodal,  vol.  ii.  p.  420;  Hist. 
Scottish  Wars,  second  edition,  1825,  p.  144 ;  Browne's  Hist,  of  the  Highlands 
and  Clans  ;  Sir  Walter  Scott's  Fair  Maid  of  Perth. 

R 


258          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

by  Alexander  1st  in  1114  for  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine. 
The  Kings  were  crowned  here  formerly  in  the  Fatal  Chair1 
which  Edward  the  1st  Carried  to  England  and  is  now  in  West- 
minster Abbey  with  the  stone  under  it  which  is  granite,  and 
they  say  was  brought  from  Egypt,  but  seems  to  be  some  of  the 
Common  Granite l  of  Scotland ;  and  it  is  most  probable  that 
the  Kings  of  Scotland  were  crowned  on  this  stone,  for  the 
Chair  itself  is  of  Gothic  workmanship.  The  Kings  of  England 
are  now  crowned  in  this  Chair,  and  another  is  made  like  it  for 
the  Coronation  of  the  Queen :  This  Abbey  was  by  James  VI. 
erected  into  a  Lordship  in  favor  of  Sir  David  Murray  a  Cadet 
of  the  family  of  Tullibarden  under  the  title  of  Lord  Stormont, 
from  the  Country  on  the  other  side  the  Water,  which  is 
called  by  that  name.  There  are  buildings  on  three  sides  of 
two  courts,  A  long  gallery  almost  the  whole  length,  being  one 
side  of  both  of  them  :  The  coved  cieling  of  wood  is  adorned 
with  History  paintings  relating  to  James  6th,  if  I  mistake  not, 
in  twelve  compartments :  There  are  rooms  in  the  other  parts 
for  lodgings  &c.  and  in  one  is  a  bed  of  Queen  Mary's  working, 
in  which  she  lay  in  the  Castle  of  Loch  Leven  when  she  was 
confined  by  her  own  Nobility.  There  are  also  some  tapestry 
hangings  of  Needlework  :  over  the  windows  in  front  are  reliefs 
of  persons  on  horseback  with  these  inscriptions  round  them — 
over  one  Godfridus  Bullonius.  Another  Carolus  Magnus.  A 
third  —  -  Rex,  A  fourth  Machabaeus,  and  in  one  court  over 
the  windows  are  these  reliefs  of  the  Heathen  gods  with  their 
proper  emblems  Cybell,  Mars,  Venus,  I  observed  everywhere 
that  the  Initial  letters  of  D.  L.  S.  for  David  Ld  Stormont  were 
let  in  after  the  wall  was  built.  I  take  this  to  have  been  the 
gallery  of  the  Abbot's  Lodgings :  over  the  gateway  one 
Unicorn  supports  the  Arms  of  Scotland  with  its  feet.  There 
is  a  small  Church  which  seems  to  have  been  erected  after  the 
reformation.  In  it  is  a  Magnificent  tomb,  as  'tis  said  made  in 
Italy,  over  David  Lord  Stormont,  and  in  the  Church  they  say 
Charles  the  2d  was  crowned  by  the  Kirk.  The  Church  yard  is 
encompassed  with  a  wall  and  the  surface  is  5  or  6  feet  above 
the  ground  on  the  outside  ;  They  have  a  Tradition  that  earth 

1  See  Dr.  Skene's  Coronation  Stone,  1869.  Dr.  Geikie,  in  App.  p.  50,  says : 
"The  stone  is  almost  certainly  of  Scottish  origin  ;  that  it  has  been  quarried  out 
of  one  of  the  sandstone  districts  between  the  coast  of  Argyle  and  the  mouths  of 
theTay  and  Forth." 


SCONE,  ERROL.  259 

was  brought  here  from  every  Barony  in  the  Kingdom  that  held 
of  the  King,  and  that  here,  on  the  death  of  the  Predecessor, 
every  Tenant  in  Fee  took  livery  &  seisin  as  of  the  King. 
There  is  a  tradition  that  on  the  Moor  of  Scone  the  Picts  were 
entirely  defeated  by  the  Caledonians.  I  saw  a  little  higher  the 
inlet  of  the  Almond. 

We  returned  back  opposite  to  the  town,  which  lies  in  the 

parish  of  Kinoul,  from  which  Lord  Kinoul  has  his  title.     We 

went  on  and  came  to  the  hills  of  Kinoul,  that  abound  in  Agates 

and  Chrystall,  the  latter  enclosed  in  hollow  stones  which  fall 

from  these  fine  high  rocks  that  are  opposite  to  Elchow.     We 

saw  Elchow  house  on  the  other  side,  built  high  in  the  Castle 

manner :  we  proceeded  near  the  river  &  saw  the  mouth  of  the 

Erne,  which  they  say  formerly  (as  appears  by  old  writings)  fell 

in  at  Inver  Gaury,  The  Tay  having  run  further  to  the  North 

through  the  Carse  of  Gaury,1  which  was  all  a  M^rassy  soil  till 

it  was  drained  some  years  agoe  and  is  called  the  Mire  of  Gaury, 

before  which  time,  the  Erne  run  in  the  present  bed  of  the  Tay : 

In  three  computed  miles  we  turned  the  point  of  the  hill  to 

the  South,  going  nearer  to  the  river,  and  here  opened  a  most 

beautifull  view  of  the  finest  part  of  Gaurie,  consisting  of  beau- 

tifull  Eminencies  planted  with  trees :  Three  miles  more  brought 

us  to  one  of  these,  on  which  Mr.  Crawford's  house  of  Errol 

stands  near  the  village  of  that  name :  The  principal  front  of 

the  house  is  to  the  East  with  a  lawn  before  it,  wood  at  a 

distance,  single  trees  and  clumps  nearer,  there  is  a  handsome 

front  to  the  South  commanding  a  view  of  the  river  with  a  lawn 

before  it,  and  a  Wood  on  each  side,  there  is  a  Lawn  also  and 

wood  before  the  Eastern  front ;  all  along  to  the  South   is  a 

terrace  which  commands  a  view  of  the  river  beyond  Dundee ; 

and  from  it  a  walk  round  the  Wood  that  extends  f  of  a  mile 

to  the  west  from  the  house.     In  the  garden  are  two  or  three 

trees  of  Thuya  or  Arbor  Vitae  and  as  many  of  Cypress,  which 

are  above  two  feet  in  Diameter  at  the  Bottom :  The  views 

every  way  are  very  fine :  There  is  a  prospect  of  the  house  of 

Cragy  the  late  Lord  Presidents,  on  an  Eminence  under  the 

hills  to  the  North  west  of  Macbeth's  Dunsinan  hill,  of  the  fine 

Vale  of  Gaurie  in  which  is  the  Castle  of  Maginen 2  of  the  Drum- 

monds,  the  present  Dutchess  of  AthoFs  family :  a  flat  extending 

1  The  Carse  of  Cowrie.  2  Castle  of  Megginch. 


260          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

about  six  miles  to  the  East,  with  wood  enough  to  adorn  it, 
but  not  so  much  as  to  intercept  the  view  of  the  beautifull  fields, 
and  there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  the  bay,  called  Inver  Gaury  into 
which  the  Tay  formerly  run ;  near  the  bottom  of  this  bay  is 
Castle  Lyons,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Strathmore,  a  house  to 
the  East  of  the  bay  from  Liver  Gaury,  which  is  a  fine  situation ; 
and  we  had  a  view  of  Lord  Grays  and  Foulis,  which  I  passed 
from  Dundee  to  Couper,  the  Church  of  Foulis  I  then  took 
notice  of,  it  was  Collegiate  and  endowed  with  a  provost  and 
prebendaries  by  Sir  Andrew  Gray  the  Ancestor  of  Lord  Gray 
in  the  time  of  James  lid  of  Scotland  ;  I  must  add,  the  view  of 
the  hills  to  the  North  covered  with  Corn,  the  Mountains  appear- 
ing over  them ;  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  water  a  fine  nar- 
row flat  from  Abernethy  to  the  West,  to  Banibrick  Castle  & 
Balmerino  and  the  bottom  of  the  hills  above  it  covered  with 
Corn  and  in.some  parts  with  Wood  even  to  the  summits  of 
them,  with  Mountains  appearing  over  them,  altogether  render 
it  one  of  the  most  delightfull  inland  situations  in  the  world. 

I  walked  to  Maginch  and  was  assured  that  the  land  would 
bear  a  succession  of  the  following  Crops  without  lying  fallow 
(viz)  flax,  wheat,  pease,  barley,  oats,  Clover  two  years  and  the 
same  round  again.  The  land  here  is  worth  twenty  shillings  an 
Acre,  in  the  Mire  not  above  seven,  it  having  been  a  heathy 
common,  &  constantly  peeled  by  the  Common  people  to  mix 
up  for  Manure. 

On  the  29th  in  the  afternoon  I  crossed  the  Tay  in  a  boat  to 
Newbrugh  &  came  where  Mr.  Crawford  took  leave  of  me,  and 
Mrs.  Haies  of  Mugrum,  having  sent  her  postchaise  for  me,  a 
Gentleman  he  recommended  me  to,  went  with  me  in  it  two 
miles  to  Abernethy  a  place  of  great  Antiquity,  finely  situated 
a  small  mile  from  the  river  Erne,  and  the  same  from  the  Tay, 
opposite  to  the  influx  of  the  Erne.  It  was  the  place  of  resi- 
dence of  the  Kings  of  the  Picts  ;  and  here  the  Metrepolitan  of 
their  Kingdom  resided,  It  was  first  a  place  of  retirement  for  St. 
Bridget  and  a  number  of  Virgins  :  she  died  here  about  518. 

It  was  then  made  a  Bishop's  See  and  was  possessed  by  the 
Culdees  who  seem  to  have  chosen  the  Bishop.  But  when 
Kenneth  the  third  King  of  the  Scots  defeated  the  Picts,  he 
removed  the  See  to  St.  Andrews  in  the  9th  Century :  It  was 
afterwards  a  Priory  of  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine  who 


ABERNETHY. 


261 


were  taken  from  Iiichaffray  in  1273.  The  present  Church  is 
small  and  probably  the  first  Church  built  here.  The  Door  is 
of  the  plainest  Saxon  Architecture. 

They  say  the  great  Church  was  to  the  NorthJEast  of  it,  and 
is  entirely  destroyed;  a  few  yards 
from  the  North  East  corner  is  the 
round  tower,1  in  the  street  below,  a 
step  appears  round  it,  probably  there 
were  more.  The  wall  is  three  feet 
six  inches  thick  at  the  Door,  and 
within  it  is  eight  feet  three  inches 
in  Diameter,  in  all  eleven  feet  nine 
inches,  it  may  be  twelve  feet  at  bot- 
tom, it  is  said  to  be  seventy  feet  high, 
but  taking  in  the  top  and  steps  it 
might  be  84  feet  high ;  as  I  have 
commonly  found  these  towers  to  be 
seven  Diameters  in  height :  There 
are  about  seventy  tiers  of  stone  to 
the  top,  nine  of  which  are  from  the 
step  to  the  door,  so  if  there  were 
three  steps,  that  makes  twelve.  The 
door  is  finished  with  a  projecting 
door  case  round  it  and  a  true  arch, 
the  four  windows  at  top  in  the  same 
style  with  an  Architrave  at  the  spring 
of  the  arch.  There  are  three  very 
small  windows  between  that  and  the 
door,  each  of  them  lighting  two 
stories,  7  stories  in  all.  The  floors 
extend  to  rather  more  than  three 
quarters  of  the  circle,  the  rope  of  • 
the  bell  coming  down  by  the  open 
space,  and  they  ascend  by  ladders. 
There  is  an  Architrave  round  the  The  Round  Tower  at  Abemethe. 
top  but  there  is  no  sign  of  any  pointed  pyramidal  top  :  It  is  of 
fine  hewn  stone  and  excellent  workmanship :  I  think  there  is 

1  Figured  in  Gordon's  Itinerarium  Sept.,  1727,  PI.  62,  p.  164;  Muir's  Notes 
on  Remains  of  Ecdes.  Arch.,  1855  ;  Anderson's  Scotland  in  Farly  Christian 
Times,  1881,  p.  42. 


262  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

no  manner  of  Doubt  but  this  tower  was  built  in  honour  of  St. 
Bridget,  notwithstanding  the  tradition  mentioned  under  the 
records  of  Perth.  A  drawing  of  it  is  seen  on  page  261. 

One  of  the  name  of  Moncrieff1  was  some  years  ago  Minister 
here,  deprived  on  account  of  his  Doctrine,  Heterodox  Tenets, 
and  became  with  four  more  the  Heads  of  the  Seceders ;  he 
lives  at  a  Village  to  the  North  near  the  river  and  has  formed 
a  sort  of  university  for  educating  young  men  for  their  Congre- 
gation, I  was  told  there  were  about  twenty  who  boarded  here 
and  at  that  Village  with  the  fanners,  for  two  shillings  a  week 
and  attend  his  lectures  :  It  is  a  very  poor  Village  at  present : 
there  is  a  Seceding  Meeting  house  here.  I  came  to  Mrs.  Haies's 
house  at  Mugrum  near  the  west  end  of  Newbrough. — I  am,  &c. 


LKTTER  LII. 

ST.  ANDREWS,  August  the  y*th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  29th  I  went  to  see  near  Mugrum  a  large 
stone  set  up  on  end  about  twelve  feet  high  three  broad  and  near 
a  foot  thick,  on  the  North  edge  are  the  remains  of  some  lines, 
cut  by  way  of  ornament ;  the  west  side  is  entirely  defaced,  but 
in  the  East  side  are  some  marks  of  a  figure2  which  seemed  to 
be  better  drawing  than  usual  on  such  Monuments :  The  stone 
is  set  into  a  socket  in  the  base,  after  the  manner  of  the 
Egyptian  Obelisks. 

From  this  place  we  went  half  a  mile  up  the  hill  to  MacdufTs 
Cross,3  of  which  nothing  remains  but  the  square  rough  pedestal,3 
with  the  socket  in  which  the  Cross  was  probably  fixed,  and 
there  are  some  holes  in  the  sides  of  it,  in  which  they  say  Iron 
hooks  were  fixed  to  tye  the  nine  heifers  to  which  were  brought 

1  Rev.  Alexander  Moncrieff,  one  of  the  four  founders  of  the  Secession  Church. 

2  Mugdrum  Cross  figured  in  New  Stat.  Ac.  vol.  ix.  p.  68. 

3  '  Macduff's  Cross,'  by  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

'  'Twas  the  pedestal 

On  which,  in  ancient  times,  a  cross  was  reared, 
Carved  o'er  with  words  which  foiled  philologists  ; 
And  the  events  it  did  commemorate 
Were  dark,  remote,  and  undistinguishable, 
As  were  the  mystic  characters  it  bore  ! ' 


ABERNETHY,  NEWBURGH.  263 

by  those  who  fled  to  it  as  an  asylum,  to  be  protected  by 
Macduffs. 

From  this  place  I  went  to  Newbrough  which  is  on  the  bounds 
of  Fife,  it  is  a  town  of  one  street,  and  there  being  many  trees 
in  their  gardens  on  each  side,  it  appears  very  beautifull  from 
the  river  like  a  little  town  in  a  wood.  They  are  all  here  either 
linnen  weavers,  or  farmers ;  and  both  here  and  at  Abernethy 
they  have  two  or  three  Bailies,  who  are  the  Magistrates,  and 
fifteen  Council ;  this  place  was  anciently  infamous  for  their 
notion  of  Witches :  And  when  the  poor  old  women  were  judged 
to  be  such,  they  sent  what  they  called  a  pricker,  to  run  a  needle 
into  them,  and  if  they  were  so  old  as  to  Discover  no  sense 
of  pain,  they  were  condemned  by  the  Bailies  to  be  burnt ;  and 
I  was  assured  that  three  were  burnt  on  the  hill  towards  Mac- 
duff's  Cross  in  1669. 

Very  near  the  East  End  of  Newbrough  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Abbey  of  Lindores  :  It  was  first  founded  in  this  forrest  of  Ern- 
side  by  David  Earl  of  Huntingtore  brother  of  King  William 
when  he  returned  from  the  holy  land  in  the  year  1178.  He 
brought  to  it  the  Tyronenses  of  Kelso  of  the  rule  of  St.  Bernard 
and  St.  Bennet  first  established  at  Tyronium  in  the  Diocese 
of  Chartres  in  France  :  The  Church  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin 
Mary  and  St.  Andrew :  The  site  of  it  is  seen  but  it  is  entirely 
ruined.  David  Duke  of  Rothsay  eldest  son  of  Robert  the  third 
is  said  to  be  burried  in  this  Church  who  was  starved  at  Falkland 
by  his  uncle :  It  was  erected  into  a  Lordship  by  James  Vlth 
in  1600  in  favor  of  Patrick  Lesly  son  of  the  Earl  of  Rothes, 
and  his  Descendant  Lord  Lindores  is  now  Colonel  of  a  regiment 
of  invalides,  the  family  formerly  lived  here,  but  the  Estate 
is  now  in  Mrs.  Haies's  son  of  Mugrum. 

In  the  garden  is  a  dead  holy  tree  standing  with  its  boughs 
even  since  the  great  frost  of  1740,  it  is  above  three  feet  in 
Diameter.  There  was  a  gallery  round  it  within  the  lower 
boughs,  and  a  room  on  the  upper  boughs  in  which  they  say 
James  6th  dined :  They  had  a  shady  walk  for  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  an  elevated  ground  near  the  river  called  Mount 
Holy,  which  was  a  place  for  the  Monks  to  retire  to  for  Exercise 
and  amusement.  A  rivulet  runs  by  the  Convent  which  rises 
out  of  a  Lough  half  a  mile  long  and  a  quarter  broad  between 


264          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760, 

the  hills  :  A  little  further,  I  was  informed,  Wallace  was  defeated 
and  hid  himself  in  a  gully  covered  with  Shrubs,  which  to  this 
day  is  called  Wallace's  den. 

We  came  about  two  miles  to  Bambrick1  anciently  the  Estate 
of  the  Lords  of  Abernethie,  which  came  about  200  years  agoe 
into  the  Rothes  family  by  marrying  the  heiress ;  It  is  an  L ; 
the  old  Castle  forms  the  angle  to  the  south  west  to  which  they 
have  joyned  some  modern  buildings  to  the  East,  and  there  are 
remains  of  a  fine  gallery  with  a  grand  Chimney  piece  leading 
to  a  building  northward  over  the  river ;  This  gallery  seems  to 
have  been  built  to  the  old  enclosure,  the  wall  being  very  thick  : 

I  went  on  near  the  Sea  about  four  miles  to  Balmerinach.  It 
was  an  Abbey  of  Cistercians,  founded  by  Alexander  lid  and 
his  mother  Emergald2  a  Daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Beaumont. 
It  is  called  Balmurerim,  and  Habitaculum  ad  Mare  :  It  is  said 
to  have  been  a  stately  building,  and  the  Kitchen  shows  it, 
which  consisted  of  four  fine  Arches  supported  by  two  rows  of 
Octagon  pillars,  the  Capitals  of  which  are  short  and  adorned 
with  foliage.  The  fireplace  was  between  the  two  Eastern 
pillars,  which  were  larger  than  the  others,  and  there  is  no 
building  between  them,  but  there  seems  to  have  been  an  isolated 
double  grate,  so  as  to  dress  the  victuals  on  both  sides,  and 
from  the  middle  of  the  arch  between  them  to  the  West, 
the  space  between  the  Mullions  of  the  groyiVd  arches  are  not 
filled  up,  but  were  left  open  to  receive  the  smoak  :  The  founda- 
tions of  the  Church  are  quite  destroyed ;  a  house  having  been 
built  out  of  all  these  ruins.  The  monks  were  Cistertians  brought 
from  Melross,  and  it  was  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary  &  St. 
Edward :  King  James  6th  made  Sr  James  Elphinston  Lord 
of  Balmerinach  whose  descendant  was  beheaded  in  1746,  and 
this  part  of  the  Estate,  about  <£J200  a  year,  loaded  with  Debts 
was  sold  to  the  Earl  of  Murray.3  This  was  the  Seat  of  the 
family. 

We  crossed  the  hill  to  the  South,  and  had  a  view  to  the 
North  East  of  Newtown,  a  house  built  to  a  Castle  on  a  rising 

1  Ballanbreich,  usually  pronounced  Bambreich. 

2  Abbey  of  Balmerino,  founded  by  Queen  Emergarde. 

3  After  the  forfeiture  of  the  estates  to  the  Crown  they  were  sold  to  the  Yorks, 
Building  Co. ,  who  subsequently  sold  them  to  the  Earl  of  Moray. 


BALMERINO,  CUPAR,  DAIRSIE. 


265 


ground  between  the  hills,  which  is  seen  at  a  great  distance 
from  the  North  west  and  commands  a  view  up  the  Tay  and  of 
the  Country  of  the  river  and  the  Sea  towards  St.  Andrews. 
We  came  into  a  beautifull  Amphi- 
theatre between  the  hills  out  of 
which  rise  several  streams  and  fall 
into  the  Eden,  and  crossing  over  a 
hill  came  in  four  long  miles  to 
Couper,  finely  situated  on  the  river 
Eden,  which  is  formed  by  several 
streams  rising  to  the  West  and 
Northwest  beyond  Falkland  :  And 
from  the  hill  I  saw  a  most  glorious 
prospect  of  a  very  rich  vale  to  the 
West,  in  which  we  had  a  view  of 
the  Earl  of  Leven's  Seat  with  fine 
plantations  about  four  miles  dis- 
tant. Couper  is  a  small  town  in 
which  there  are  about  2000  Souls, 
who  chiefly  subsist  by  shops  and 
Marketts  for  Cattle  Corn  &c.  and 
it  is  the  high  road  from  Dundee 
to  Edinburgh  :  They  have  a  hand- 
some Market  house  and  Cross,1  and 
a  good  parish  Church  with  a  gal- 
lery at  the  top  of  the  tower,  and 
another  about  half-way  up  the 
Spire :  The  Castle  hill  is  at  the 
South  East  side  of  the  town :  At 
the  foot  of  this  hill  was  the  Do- 
minican Convent  founded  by  the 
Macduft's  Earls  of  Fife ;  But  it  was 
annexed  to  St.  Monan  the  fine 

„,  ,  ,      .         „  i     T-»  i         Tower  on  the  Angle  of  the  Church  Wall 

Chapel  being  first  much  Destroyed :  at  Darisy.2 

There  are  no  remains  of  anything  belonging  to  this  Monastery : 

There  is  a  Nonjuring  Congregation  here  which  is  pretty  large. 


1  Subsequently  removed  to  the  top  of  the  hill  of  Wemyss  Hall. 

2  See  Billing's  Baronial  and  Eccles.  Antiq.  Scot.,  1845-52,  vol.  i. 


266  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Lang  who  had  accompanied  me,  and  came 
on  towards  St.  Andrews,  &  travelling  near  the  Eden  I  came 
in  two  miles  to  Darisy,  where  there  is  a  Castle  and  a  fine 
Chapel  near  it,  which  they  told  me  belonged  to  Cardinal 
Bethune  who  built  the  Chapel.  It  is  a  most  delightfull 
situation  on  a  hanging  ground  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
windings  of  the  river,  of  two  bridges  over  it,  and  of  three  or 
four  Gentlemen's  Seats  to  the  South.  The  Chapel  is  built 
with  ornamental  buttresses  between  the  modern  Gothic  windows, 
and  with  battlements  at  the  top ;  at  the  South  West  Corner 
an  Octagon  tower  is  built  on  the  Wall,  and  the  two  battle- 
ments with  stones  between  the  angles  to  support  it.  They 
end  in  a  point,  every  stone  widening  up  to  the  foundation  of 
the  tower.  There  is  a  very  short  Octagon  spire  on  it,  with 
four  upright  windows  in  it.  I  suppose  it  must  rest  on  a  pillar 
in  the  Church,  a  drawing  of  it  is  seen  on  page  265. 

We  crossed  the  Eden  on  a  bridge  and  going  from  it  to  the 
South  East,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  some  Gentlemen's  Seats  to 
the  North  of  it  delightfully  situated  in  the  plain,  and  of  the 
bridge  of  six  arches  built  near  its  mouth,  being  the  high  road 
from  Dundee. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LIU. 

ELLY  HOUSE,  NEAR  ELLY  IN  FIFE,  Sepr.  ist,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — We  came  to  St.  Andrews  in  four  miles  from 
Darisy.  This  City  is  most  pleasantly  situated  on  the  high 
ground  to  the  Sea,  two  miles  to  the  South  of  Eden,  and  on  a 
hanging  ground  over  a  small  brook  to  the  South  of  the  town 
which  might  be  of  great  use  in  carrying  on  any  manufacture. 
The  City  is  finely  laid  out  in  three  broad  streets  near  a  Mile 
long  which  run  East  and  West,  and  there  was  a  row  of  houses 
built  to  the  South  and  called  .  .  -1  which  faced  to  the  North 
Sea,  and  must  have  been  very  pleasant,  this  City  being  situated 
on  a  head  of  ground  formed  by  the  Sea  to  the  North  and  the 

1  Probably  the  Scores. 


DAIRSIE,  ST.  ANDREWS.  267 

rivulet  to  the  South  ;  three  narrow  Streets  cross  these  at  right 
angles.  The  original  of  Devotion  to  this  place  was  owing  to 
some  relicks  of  St.  Andrew,  concerning  which  there  is  this 
extraordinary  Legend,  Regulus,  a  greek  monk  of  Patrae  in 
Achaia,  who  was  in  possession  of  the  relicks  of  St.  Andrew,  was 
admonished  in  a  vision  in  370  (three  days  before  the  Emperor 
Constantine  came  to  Patrae  to  remove  those  relicks)  to  take  the 
armbone,  three  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  a  tooth,  and  a  lid  of 
the  knee,  and  to  carry  them  to  a  Western  region  ;  He  embarked 
with  them  in  company  of  Damianus  a  Presbyter,  Gelasius,  and 
Cabaculus  deacons,  and  three  virgins.  The  vessel  split  on  the 
rock  at  St.  Andrews,  and  they  came  ashore  with  the  relicks  to 
this  place,  then  a  forrest  called  Muchross  (The  land  of  Boars). 
Hengustus  King  of  the  Picts  and  of  all  the  low  Country  of 
Scotland  visited  the  relicts,  called  the  place  Rarimont1  (The 
King's  Mount),  gave  them  the  whole  forrest,  built  a  church  now 
called  St.  Rules  or  Regulus,  and  by  the  Highlanders  in  Eirshe 
(at  this  time)  Kilreule. 

This  Church  is  supposed  to  be  standing  at  this  day,  and 
consists  of  a  very  fine  square  tower  about  100  feet  high  with  a 
door  in  the  south  side  of  it,  and  small  buildings  to  the  East, 
It  seems  to  have  had  at  three  different  times  three  different 
roofs ;  and  to  the  East  of  that  was  a  smaller  building  now 
entirely  destroyed,  in  which  the  relicks  might  be  kept ;  to  the 
west  was  another  building  probably  of  the  same  dimensions  as 
the  first,  to  which  by  the  marks  on  the  tower  it  appears  that 
there  had  only  been  one  roof ;  to  the  south  there  seemed  to 
have  been  a  shed  extending  as  far  west  as  to  the  door,  by  the 
marks  in  the  wall.  The  building  is  about  two  feet  wider  than 
the  tower,  and  so  far  a  Buttress  comes  out  at  each  of  the 
western  Angles  that  it  might  be  on  all  sides  equally  supported, 
which  seems  to  be  very  judicious  :  A  very  ancient  Cornice  with 
niodilions  runs  round  the  tower  in  a  line  from  the  building ; 
the  windows  on  each  side  at  the  top  of  the  tower  are  very  narrow 
with  a  true  arch  supported  by  Saxon  pillars,  and  over  them  are 
very  small  holes  to  let  in  light,  the  two  windows  on  each  side 

1  Kilrymont  (Cil-righ-monaidh),  i.e.  '  Cella  regis  in  monte,'  or  The  Chapel  of 
the  King  on  the  Mount.  See  legends  of  the  See  in  Gordon's  Scotichronicon, 
1867,  vol.  i.  p.  ^2. 


268  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

of  the  building  are  narrow  and  not  long,  covered  with  one 
stone  cut  into  a  flat  Arcli :  There  is  a  window  in  the  tower  to 
the  East  which  looked  into  the  Church,  in  which  the  inner 
stones  are  cut  in  true  arches,  but  the  outter  stone  has  been 
worked  in  a  different  shape  from  them  with  an  arch  somewhat 
inclining  towards  the  Gothick,  but  I  am  persuaded  it  was  so 
formed  since  it  was  put  up :  The  Arches  at  both  ends  of  the 
building  are  supported  by  round  slender  pillars,  the  long 
Capitals  of  which  are  quite  plain  ;  as  they  are  of  the  windows 
in  the  tower :  There  is  much  adjectitious  work  within  the  tower 
to  form  a  stone  staircase  some  way  up,  and  on  it  rests  a  frame 
of  wood  of  several  floors,  now  going  to  Decay ;  I  apprehend  it 
consisted  originally  of  several  floors  with  ladders  up  to  them  like 
the  round  towers ;  The  whole  is  built  of  a  fine  white  freestone 
which  was  got  near  the  tower,  is  of  excellent  masonry,  and 
resembles  much  the  most  ancient  buildings  about  Rome  and 
Venice,  and  may  be  of  the  5th  Century,  it  may  be  before  the 
Romans  left  Britain  ;  There  is  a  small  window  above  the  larger 
windows,  and  two  below,  both  at  such  a  distance  from  the 
windows  and  the  Door  as  that  it  may  be  supposed  that  the 
large  window  lighted  two  floors,  as  well  as  the  door  below,  so 
that  the  ground  floor  excepted,  there  seemed  to  have  been  in 
the  whole  six  stories.  As  mentioned  before  Keneth  the  3d 
King  of  the  Scots,  when  he  defeated  the  Picts,  removed  the  See 
to  St.  Andrews. 

The  Cathedral1  a  few  yards  to  the  North  west  of  this  build- 
ing was  a  very  grand  fabrick  :  It  was  begun  by  Bishop  Arnold, 
who  had  been  Abbot  of  Kelso,  about  the  year  1160.  This 
Cathedral  seems  to  have  been  entirely  Saxon,  there  appearing 
no  sign  of  the  Gothick  style  except  in  a  narrow  arcli  in  the 
upper  gallery  on  each  side  of  the  Altar,  and  it  seems  also  to 
have  been  a  greek  Cross,  for  there  are  four  windows  in  this 
style  in  the  western  part,  which  might  have  extended  somewhat 
further :  For  the  west  end  of  the  Cathedral  was  blown  down 
in  a  storm,  and  was  rebuilt  and  probably  enlarged  by  Bishop 
William  Wishart  about  1274,  there  having  been  about  six 

1  For  views  of  West  Front  of  Cathedral,  St.  Regulus,  and  College  Church,  see 
Billing's  Baronial  a  nd  Eccles.  Antiq.  of  Scot.,  1845-52,  vol.  i. ;  Pennant's  Tour, 
1772,  PI.  xxii.  p.  191. 


ST.  ANDREWS.  269 

Gothic  windows  added,  besides  two  arches,  that  seem  to  have 
been  the  Vestible  of  the  Church  :  The  west  end  is  very  grand, 
the  towers  on  each  side  of  the  door  are  part  of  an  octagon 
towards  the  west,  and  crowned  with  round  pyramids,  having 
windows  in  them  to  the  four  Cardinal  points.  In  the  half 
pediment  at  the  end  of  the  isle  is  a  Gothick  window  being 
a  quarter  of  a  circle,  or  a  triangle,  one  side  of  which  is  the 
segment  of  a  circle  ;  the  Triangle  being  the  Emblem  of  the 
Trinity ;  There  seems  to  have  been  a  building  on  each  side 
under  it,  probably  a  Chapel ;  All  the  windows  of  the  old 
Church  were  built  with  true  Arches,  they  were  long  windows 
and  not  very  narrow.  In  the  Transcept  were  eight  arches 
some  of  which  are  not  pierced  through  for  windows  and  under 
them  as  many  intersecting  circles,  there  were  two  galleries  in 
the  walls  all  round  the  Church  :  In  the  west  end  were  three 
tiers  of  windows  each  consisting  of  three  ;  those  at  the  top 
were  short,  and  two  of  them  were  destroyed  to  make  room  for 
a  Gothic  window  which  might  be  done  when  the  west  end  was 
built,  there  are  round  pilasters  to  the  Angles  on  the  outside, 
which  are  formed  at  the  corners  of  the  towers,  and  at  the 
corners  they  goe  all  the  way  up  and  are  crowned  with  Capitals. 
These  two  towers  are  finished  at  top  with  pyramids  on  bases, 
both  of  an  octagon  form  :  The  North  side  of  the  Church  is 
entirely  destroyed.  The  West  end  of  the  Cathedral  was  not 
finished  till  1318  by  Bishop  Lamberton. 

Adjoyning  to  the  Church  a  priory  was  founded  with  a  prior 
and  Canons  for  the  Cathedral  by  Alexander  1st,  this  is  also 
said  to  be  founded  by  Bishop  Robert  who  had  been  Prior  of 
Scone  under  King  David  the  1st,  that  is  he  brought  the  Canons 
to  it  from  Scone  in  the  year  1140.  The  Culdees  seem  to  have 
continued  as  part  of  the  Chapter  and  were  permitted  to  live 
with  them  on  condition  that  they  would  live  regularly  & 
peaceably,  otherwise  they  were  to  be  expelled.  K.  David 
granted  this  Prior  and  the  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Austin,  the 
Culdean  Priory  of  Loch  leven  :  The  Priory  is  a  large  Enclosure 
with  round  towers,  in  most  of  which  are  niches  for  statues  and 
on  many,  the  arms  of  Priors  who  built  them  :  There  is  a  grand 
gateway  of  four  arches  from  the  town,  and  within  it,  is  a  large 
gate  and  a  small  one  ;  There  was  also  a  gateway  to  the  south. 


270          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Everything  is  destroyed  within  this  Enclosure  :  They  pretend 
to  show  where  their  Chapel  stood.  The  prior  was  invested  with 
Episcopal  Ornaments,  and  took  place  of  all  the  Abbots  of  Scot- 
land in  Parliament. 

Bishop  Roger  first  built  the  Castle  of  St.  Andrews  in  1200 
in  which  two  Bishops  lived  :  Bishop  Lambert  is  also  said  to 
have  built  a  house  for  the  Bishop  which  might  be  in  the 
country.  The  House  of  the  Archdeacon  and  of  some  others 
belonging  to  the  Cathedral  are  still  shown,  £  a  protestant 
Bishop  lived  in  a  house  near  the  Cathedral. 

The  Castle  of  the  Arch  Bishops  is  built  round  a  Court  to  the 
Northwest  of  the  Cathedral  on  a  head  of  land  washed  on  three 
sides  by  the  Sea  ;  The  front  of  the  Gateway,  and  if  I  mistake 
not  was  built  by  Cardinal  Bethune.  On  other  parts  are  the 
arms  of  those  who  are  supposed  to  have  built  them.  In  this 
Castle,  Cardinal  Betoun  was  murdered  not  long  after  he  had  seen 
some  persons  burnt  for  heresy,  and  especially  the  famous  Wishart ; 
and  from  that  very  window  his  body  was  thrown  to  satisfy 
the  populace,  from  which  he  had  seen  these  miserable  objects. 

The  Parish  Church  here  is  a  handsome  building  ;  In  it  Arch 
Bishop  Sharp  was  buried,  and  over  him  is  erected  a  stately 
Monument  of  the  Corinthian  order  with  his  statue,  and  a  Relief 
representing  his  murder,  the  Statuary  work  which  is  very  indif- 
ferent was  executed  in  Holland. 

In  the  west  end  of  the  street  called  Shoegate  or  Southgate, 
are  remains  of  the  north  part  of  the  transept  of  the  Church 
of  the  Observantines  ;  it  is  of  fine  light  Gothic  Architecture 
and  covered  with  a  beautifull  Arch.  The  Latin  School  is  on 
the  site  of  the  Convent,  it  was  founded  by  Bishop  Kennedy  and 
finished  by  Bishop  Graham  in  1478.  Jno  Walbrook  a  famous 
Mathematician  in  the  time  of  James  Vth  was  provincial  of  this 
order  and  resided  here  : 

Between  the  north  gate  and  middle  gate  is  the  Site  of  the 
Dominicans  now  the  bowling  Green  and  a  field,  without  the 
least  remains  of  it,  it  was  founded  by  Bishop  Wishart  in  1274. 
James  Vth  annexed  Couper  and  St.  Monans  to  it.  On  the  plain 
to  the  South  of  the  Priory  are  some  houses,  called  the  Noude, 
which  they  speak  of  as  a  Convent,  &  might  be  the  Carmelites 
mentioned  in  St.  Andrews  of  which  they  have  no  knowledge. 


ST.  ANDREWS. 

There  is  a  University  here,  which  did  consist  of  two  Colleges 
for  Philosophy,  Law  and  Physick,  and  the  College  of  Divinity : 
Bishop  Wardlaw  is  said  in  1411  to  have  first  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  a  University  for  teaching  Arts  and  Sciences :  And  yet 
if  I  mistake  not,  Prior  Heberden1  founded  the  College  of  St. 
Leonard.  The  next  Bishop,  Kennedy,  in  1456  founded  St. 
Salvator  College  and  was  buried  under  a  very  beautifull  Gothic 
monument  of  freestone  which  he  himself  erected  ;  and  there 
seems  to  have  been  a  Couchant  Statue  on  it :  His  Successor 
Graham  obtained  that  this  See  should  be  erected  into  an  Arch 
Bishoprick  :  Arch  Bishop  James  Betoun  began  to  found  the 
divinity  College  which  he  left  to  be  finished  by  his  Nephew 
and  Successor  the  Cardinal,  one  part  of  it  for  the  library,  and 
a  room  under  it  for  Exercises  ;  This  building  is  of  hewn  stone, 
and  the  parliament  was  held  in  it,  when  the  plague  was  in 
Edinburgh  :  A  Court  adjoyns  to  it  which  is  the  Divinity 
College  :  Here  are  lodgings  and  a  large  room  in  which  they 
eat  with  one  of  the  Professors  who  always  attend  in  turns. 
There  are  about  eight  on  the  foundation  and  as  many 
Exhibitioners,  the  former  have  their  Lodgings  and  diet, 
and  the  latter  their  Diet  only,  and  they  have  a  large  room 
for  their  Lectures  :  They  have  a  principal  and  four  other 
professors :  beyond  this  College  is  a  building  erected  for  an 
Observatory  under  the  famous  Gregory,  who  not  agreeing 
with  the  Professors  here  went  to  Oxford.  In  the  Library 
is  a  Manuscript  of  one  or  two  of  the  Classicks  not  very  old, 
one  is  a  poem,  the  other  a  part  of  Cicero's  Works,  and  some 
Church  books. 

Leonards  College  was  by  Act  of  Parliament  united  to  St. 
Salvators  and  is  now  let  for  houses  and  lodgings :  There  is  a 
Tower  to  it  as  well  as  to  St.  Salvator,  and  the  parish  Church  ; 
And  the  two  principals  and  sixteen  other  professors  were 
reduced  to  thirteen.  They  are  repairing  their  Chapel  at  St. 
Salvators  in  which  is  a  very  fine  Gothick  tomb  in  freestone  of 
the  founder  Kennedy,  erected  by  himself;  A  Couchant  Statue 
of  him  seems  to  have  laid  on  it.  They  have  a  room  for 
Exercises  and  a  Library :  In  which  I  was  shown  a  very  fine 
Gothick  Mace  or  Verge  of  Silver  gilt.  On  it  is  the  name  of 
1  Prior  John  Hepburn  of  the  Augustinian  Monastery,  1512. 


272          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

the  maker  Paris :  It  was  given  by  Bishop  Kennedy.  They 
have  also  a  number  of  large  pieces  of  silver  with  the  Arms 
Embossed  and  many  engraved,  of  the  best  annual  shooters  with 
a  bow  and  arrow,  which  being  made  too  large,  they  are  now 
reduced  to  the  size  of  a  large  Medal  with  Engravings  on  them. 
Here  they  have  about  sixteen  on  the  foundation  and  twenty- 
four  Exhibitioners.  The  Students  live  in  the  College  and 
must  attend  the  hall,  the  price  of  their  diet  fixed.  They  are 
four  years  in  Phylosophy,  and  six  in  divinity  for  all  parts, 
Except  the  Highlands,  for  which  four  is  sufficient,  but  since 
Presbytery  has  been  established,  They  don't  take  the  Degree  of 
Doctor  of  Divinity.  They  are  kept  strict  to  their  Studies,  and 
do  not  attend  any  diversions  that  will  take  them  off*.  They 
remain  in  the  University  from  November  to  June,  the  students 
in  Divinity  only  till  Aprill,  and  then  they  all  go  away  in  the 
long  vacation  and  the  Colleges  are  shut  up.  The  Professors 
having  all  families  and  houses  in  the  town.  They  have  a 
rector  over  the  University  who  is  Vice  Chancellor ;  The  two 
principals  and  two  divinity  professors  commonly  are  chosen  in 
their  turn,  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  is  their  Chancellor :  The 
Duke  of  Chandos's  two  Sons  travelling  in  Scotland  the  begin- 
ning of  this  Century,  the  Duke  gave  a  ,£1000  to  found  a 
Professorship  here  for  Physic  and  Anatomy.  Dr.  Thomas 
Simpson  a  brother1  to  the  Professor  at  Glasgow  was  the  first 
Professor.  He  has  made  very  curious  observations  in  Physick 
and  published  a  book  in  1752  (viz)  An  inquiry  how  far  the  vital 
and  animal  actions  can  be  accounted  for^  independent  of  the 
brain.  He  has  also  made  some  very  curious  observations  and 
drawings  in  relation  to  the  wonderful  Structure  of  the  Echinus 
which  he  is  now  about  to  publish.  In  the  other  book  there  is 
a  curious  acct.  of  the  ossified  brain  of  a  Cow  which  I  saw  :  The 
Cow  did  not  appear  different  from  other  Cattle  when  alive,  but 
by  frequent  snorting.  I  had  a  letter  to  one  of  the  professors 
who  carried  me  to  the  library,  where  the  Rector  and  all  who 
were  in  town  met  me,  showed  me  everything  about  the  town, 
dined  with  me,  and  invited  me  to  the  divinity  hall  to  sit  with 
them  and  take  some  refreshments. 

They  say  there  are  only  between  three  and  4000  Souls  in 
1  See  note  4,  p.  3. 


ST.  ANDREWS,  CRAIL.  273 

the  town.  They  are  mostly  farmers  and  shopkeepers,  &  a  few 
merchants,  and  people  that  subsist  by  the  University.  They 
have  a  pier  for  small  vessels  and  boats,  but  the  weather  must 
be  good,  when  they  enter,  the  Coast  being  mostly  rocky,  and 
there  is  a  bay  before  the  mouth  of  the  Eden. 

There  is  a  little  promontory  to  the  North  of  the  enclosure 
of  the  Cathedral,  and  just  over  the  pier,  on  which  was  the 
Collegiate  Church  called  Kirkheugh ;  They  show  the  place  a 
little  beyond  the  pier  where  it  was  first  built,  and  was  called 
the  Lady's  Craig ;  but  the  Sea  encroaching  on  it,  "'twas  built 
on  the  heights ;  It  consisted  of  a  Provost  and  ten  prebendaries 
and  belonged  to  the  Culdees  till  the  fourteenth  Century  :  In  it 
•was  the  Statue  of  King  Constantine  who  retired  and  professed 
himself  a  Culdee :  It  was  called  Praepositura  Sanctae  Marias  de 
rupe,  also  Capella  Regia  &  Capella  Domini  Regis  Scotorum. — 
I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LIV. 

LESLY  IN  FIFE,  September  2d,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  first  of  September  I  left  St.  Andrews 
accompanied  by  Dr.  Simpson.  We  went  by  the  sea  side  and 
passing  over  the  bridge  the  Dr.  showed  me  a  plant  growing  out 
of  the  joints  of  the  stones,  which  we  could  not  come  at.  It  is 
I  think  peculiar  to  this  place  and  is  called  Secale  Scoticum 
Imperatorios  qffine.  The  lands  round  about  the  town  which 
were  in  the  Church  now  belong  to  the  Colleges :  There  is  a 
ridge  of  low  hills  called  Barnymount  (in  the  Map  Byre  hills) 
which  seems  a  corruption  from  Boar  hills',  there  being  a  tradi- 
tion that  when  they  hunted  the  boar  here,  he  always  ran  along 
this  hill  to  Boar  hill :  There  are  several  stones  about  this  road, 
set  up  on  end,  &  they  have  a  tradition  that  there  was  a  battle 
here  with  the  Danes.  We  passed  by  Kings  Barns  where  they 
say  the  Kings  of  the  Picts  lived,  which  might  be  their  hunting 
Seat  as  well  as  their  Farm. 

We  came  on  six  miles  in  all  from  St.  Andrews  to  Crail  a 
small  town  about  a  mile  from  the  South  East  point  of  the 


274  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Coast  of  Fife,  called  Fifeness :  Here  was  a  Collegiate  Church 
founded  at  the  desire  of  the  Prioress  of  Haddington,  for  a 
Provost,  a  sacristan,  and  two  Prebendaries  in  1517.  The  Choir 
part  seems  to  be  old,  but  the  body  of  the  Church  is  a  modern 
Gothic  building.  There  has  been  an  attempt  here  to  establish 
a  Manufactory  of  bone  lace :  but  the  people  have  not  so  much 
application  as  they  ought  to  make  it  turn  to  account.  They 
have  here  as  in  all  the  other  little  towns  on  the  Frith  of  Forth 
in  Fife,  piers  built  for  the  Securing  of  Vessels ;  and  they  most 
of  them  carry  on  some  fishing  trade ;  there  being  very  good 
fish  at  the  isle  of  May  opposite  to  this  place,  in  the  mouth  of 
the  Frith  of  Forth  :  where  there  was  a  Cell  of  Canons  Regular 
of  St.  Augustine  which  belonged  to  the  Monks  of  Reading  in 
Yorkshire  founded  by  K.  David  to  All  the  Saints,  and  after- 
wards was  dedicated  to  St.  Hadrian :  Bp:  Lamberton  of  St. 
Andrews  purchased  it  from  the  Abbott  of  Reading  and  gave  it 
to  the  Canons  Regular,  tho?  Edward  the  Hid.  protested  against 
it.  Barren  Women  used  to  go  to  this  Cell  in  Pilgrimage.1 

In  two  small  Miles  we  passed  through  another  town  called 
Kilreny,  and  then  through  the  two  Anstruthers,  Easter  and 
Wester,  where  is  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Anstruthers,  which  is 
not  now  inhabited  :  Another  mile  brought  us  to  Pittenweem : 
Here  was  a  Church  of  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Austin  dedicated 
to  the  Virgin  Mary.  The  old  tower  remains,  but  the  Church 
has  been  almost  entirely  destroyed,  and  what  remains  of  the 
old  building  is  inhabited  by  a  nonjuring  minister,  who  has  a 
few  followers  mostly  women.  Here  they  have  a  port  that  will 
receive  a  ship  of  between  2  &  300  tons,  and  they  have  two  ship& 
that  belong  to  the  Whale  fishery  which  is  declining.  They 
have  in  its  infancy  a  Manufacture  of  Carpets  like  the  Turkey. 
This  town,  the  two  Anstruthers  and  Pittenweem  send  a  Member 
to  Parliament : 

In  a  mile  more  we  came  to  St.  Monan2  an  industrious  fishing 
Village.  At  the  West  end  of  the  town  is  the  Church  of  St. 
Monan.  This  Chapel  was  founded  by  David  the  lid.  and  was 
served  by  a  Hermit ;  King  James  the  Hid.  of  Scotland  gave  it 
to  the  Dominicans  and  it  was  erected  into  a  Priory,  when  this 
order  was  made  a  distinct  province  from  that  in  England.  It 
1  See  Sibbakl's  Hist,  of  Fife.  -  St.  Monance. 


PITTENWEEM,  ST.  MONANCE,  ELIE.          275 

is  built  on  an  Eminence  very  near  the  Sea,  and  appears  to  have 
been  in  the  shape  of  a  Cross,  but  the  west  part  is  destroyed :  It 
is  a  very  solid  antient  building  with  an  old  plain  Cornice,  the 
Cavetto  of  which  is  adorned  with  heads  of  beasts:  The  Windows 
of  the  Transcept  are  like  those  of  a  Castle  splaying  outward 
and  turned  with  true  arches,  if  I  do  not  mistake :  The  south 
side  seems  to  have  been  the  model  for  the  Chapel  of  Derisy 1 
with  three  windows  and  ornamental  buttresses,  but  where  the 
door  is  in  the  place  of  the  next  but  one  to  the  transept,  there 
is  only  a  narrow  window  to  the  east  of  it,  there  are  two  windows 
at  the  east  end  divided  by  a  buttress :  To  the  north  there  was 
a  building  joyned  on  to  it,  now  destroyed,  which  took  up  almost 
the  whole  side  of  the  Cross.  It  is  built  of  the  freestone  which 
in  some  parts  is  beautifully  honey  combed  by  the  weather ;  The 
East  part  serves  for  the  Parish  Church  of  Abercromby ;  the  rest 
is  without  roof. 

Another  mile  brought  us  to  Elly2  where  there  is  a  harbour 
for  large  Ships,  and  on  the  East  side  of  it  is  a  rock  of  freestone 
in  which  they  find  Garnites ;  and  being  set  with  a  foil  they 
look  like  rubies,  and  are  so  called.  From  this  place  I  went  to 
Elly  house  close  to  it,  and  visited  Sr  Jn°  Anstruther.  It  is  a 
good  house  built  to  an  old  castle,  there  are  some  good  pictures 
in  it,  particularly  Copies  of  some  of  the  Luxemburgh  Gallery. 
Sr  John  has  a  good  Collection  of  books  also  of  the  Roman 
Coins,  with  some  greek,  and  several  Modern  Medals  collected 
by  his  father,  who  laid  out  this  place  in  very  good  taste ;  and 
made  Plantations  on  each  side  of  the  lawn  before  the  house ; 
and  there  are  4  terraces  round  the  woods :  In  the  front  is  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  and  to  the  west  the  bay  of  Largo  appears  like 
a  great  river ;  There  are  several  Mounts  about  this  Country, 
which  are  called  Laws,  as  they  say  from  making  their  Laws  on 
them.  This  is  the  common  opinion  as  I  was  told :  But  Low 
or  Hleaw3  in  Saxon  signifies  a  Tumulus,  &  in  Staffordshire  & 
Worcestershire  they  call  a  Barrow  a  Low,  as  you  may  see  in 
Plots  Staffordshire  under  Clent,  in  his  Chapter  of  Antiquities. 
There  is  such  a  one  near  the  House  which  is  called  Elly  Law, 
near  it  they  found  a  passage  under  ground,  going  first  straight 

1  Dairsie.  2  Elie. 

3  Sax.  hlaw,  a  hill,  heap,  or  barrow  ;  Goth,  filaiw. 


276  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

forward  then  as  a  segment  of  a  circle,  and  again  in  a  line  lead- 
ing to  an  oval  apartment  like  one  of  the  Picts  houses,  and  such 
I  am  inclined  to  think  this  was,  and  so  might  some  of  the  others. 
What  is  very  extraordinary  they  found  the  whole  full  of  a  rich 
black  earth.  There  were  no  bones  in  it  or  any  other  thing. — 
I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LV. 

KINROSS,  September  $d,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  2nd  Dr.  Simpson  took  leave  and  Sr.  John 
Anstruther  rid  with  me  near  to  Balgoun.1  I  set  out  to  the  west  & 
saw  Kelly2  Lord  Kelly's  under  the  hill  to  the  North  East;  going 
on  we  passed  in  sight  of  Balcarras  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  that 
name,  and  a  rock  near  it  is  called  Cumerland  which  gives  title 
to  his  eldest  son  :  We  came  at  the  bottom  of  the  bay  to  Lunden ; 
Here  lives  the  next  Heir  to  the  Perth  family  Mr.  Drummond ; 
near  it  are  three  stones  set  up  on  end  from  4  to  six  feet  broad 
and  about  fifteen  feet  high,  there  seem  to  have  been  two  or 
three  more  so  as  to  form  rather  an  oblong  square  than  a  Circle, 
and  was  doubtless  an  Antient  Druid  temple.3 

We  passed  near  Leven  at  the  mouth  of  the  Leven  where 
there  are  salt  works  and  a  harbour  for  ships  of  between  2  or 
300  tons ;  we  passed  by  some  great  Coal  pitts  and  the  waggon 
roads  from  them  to  the  Sea ;  There  is  plenty  of  Coal  in  these 
parts  but  none  to  the  North  of  the  Eden. 

We  went  near  Balgoun  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Leven  & 
gives  title  to  his  eldest  Son  ;  there  are  fine  plantations  about  it, 
we  crossed  the  high  road  from  Perth  and  Falkland  to  Kinghorn 
ferry  for  Edinborough,  and  came  to  Lesly  where  I  waited  on 
the  Earl  of  Rothes  Commander  of  the  forces  in  Ireland.  It  is 
a  large  house  built  round  a  Court  in  King  Charles  the  2d'"s 
time  by  the  first  Earl  of  Rothes ;  for  Lord  Hadington  marry- 
ing the  Duke  of  Rothes's  only  Daughter,  he  procured  an  Act 
of  Parliament,  that  his  second  son  should  enjoy  the  title  of  the 

1  Balgonie  Castle.  2  Kellie  Castle.  3  Near  Lundin  House. 


LEVEN,  LESLIE,  FALKLAND.  277 

Earl  of  Rothes :  The  ascent  to  the  first  floor  was  to  have  been 
by  stairs  on  the  outside,  the  rooms  of  it  are  grand,  the 
ceilings  of  fretwork,  and  there  is  much  good  old  Tapestry  in 
the  Apartments :  In  the  Gallery,  which  is  a  very  good  one,  are 
the  family  pictures,  and  in  one  room  is  a  very  fine  portrait  of 
Rembrant  by  himself:  The  house1  is  situated  on  an  Eminence 
over  the  Leven  to  the  south  of  it  with  hanging  gardens,  and 
there  is  a  rivulet  to  the  north,  the  hills  to  the  south  are  finely 
planted,  and  so  is  the  ground  to  the  west :  To  the  east  and 
north  are  beautifull  fields  enclosed  with  plantations. 

On  the  3d  I  came  a  mile  into  the  high  road  to  Falkland 
which  leads  to  Perth  and  southward  to  Kinghorn,  after  travel- 
ling three  miles  to  the  north  we  came  to  Falkland,  having  a 
view  of  the  Vale  of  Eden  as  far  as  Couper,  and  of  Melvil,  Ld. 
Levens  I  had  seen  before,  which  is  a  very  fine  large  house  built 
by  Sr.  John  Bruce's  Ancestor  the  famous  Architect.  Falkland 
is  a  poor  small  town  remarkable  for  a  hunting  palace2  of  the 
Kings  of  Scotland :  It  is  built  on  two  sides  of  a  Court :  The 
front  to  the  Street  is  a  Chapel  over  two  Stories  of  rooms ; 
The  Ceiling  seemed  to  be  in  good  taste,  formed  in  Compart- 
ments made  of  Wainscoat,  and  painted,  but  I  could  not  get 
into  the  room.  There  are  six  windows,  with  ornamental  but- 
tresses between  them,  in  each  of  which  are  two  Niches  for 
Statues,  &  some  of  the  Statues  remain :  There  is  a  grand 
Gateway  with  a  round  tower  on  each  side ;  the  east  part  also 
consists  of  six  windows  ;  there  are  arched  offices  under  the  whole, 
and  the  same  number  of  windows  in  the  Chapel  part,  and 
between  them,  double  pilasters  below  :  To  the  upper  stories 
are  irregular  Corinthian  pillars  on  a  single  pilaster,  which 
supports  an  entablature,  on  each  side  of  which  is  a  statue  on 
the  east  side,  and  a  console  on  the  south,  on  which  there  might 
be  also  a  statue.  These  fronts  also  are  adorned  with  heads  in 
Medalions :  The  Kitchen  and  house  offices  were  to  the  north, 
but  are  in  ruins  ;  and  the  east  part  is  without  roof  or  floor. 

1  Leslie  House,  a  magnificent  seat  built  by  the  Duke  of  Rothes,  round  a  court 
like  Holyrood  Palace.     It  contained  numerous  portraits.      On  the  28th  Dec. 
1763  it  was  burnt  to  the  ground. — Old  Stat.  Ac.  Scot.,  vol.  vi.  p.  53. 

2  Figured  in  Pennant's   Tour  Scot.  1772,  pt.  ii.  PI.  xx.  p.   185.      For  plans 
and  view,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot.,   1887,  vol.  i.  pp. 
497-504. 


278  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Ressey1  lake  near  this  place,  has  been  lately  drained  oy 
making  a  deep  fossee  from  it  to  the  Eden :  We  were  here  at 
the  foot  of  the  Eastern  Mountains  called  the  Lomonds,  by 
which  we  went  three  miles ;  They  principally  consist  of  a  fine 
freestone  for  building :  We  crossed  a  rivulet  to  the  North,  and 
turning  West  again,  we  came  in  two  miles  to  Burleigh  Castle, 
an  Estate  belonging  to  Colonel  Irwin  ;  near  Lough  Leven,  and 
close  to  it  is  Melon othart,2  where  there  is  a  large  seceding 
Meeting  house,  that  Sect  abounding  in  these  parts ;  one  of  the 
preachers  of  them  having  been  Minister  of  this  Parish,  and 
Deprived  :3 

We  had  passed  near  Port  Mallock4  where  there  was  a  Church 
of  Augustinian  Canons,  said  to  be  situated  in  St.  Servanus^s 
isle  on  the  north  side  of  Loch  Leven :  had  its  name  from  St. 
Moack  and  was  founded  by  Eogareh  5  King  of  the  Picts,  and 
formerly  inhabited  by  Culdees ;  it  was  sacred  to  the  Virgin 
Mary,  and  in  1570  was  united  to  St.  Leonards  College  in  St. 
Andrews,  nothing  remaining  of  it  but  the  Parish  Church. 

At  these  Villages  above  mentioned,  we  came  into  the  road 
from  Perth  to  Queensferry,  and  in  a  mile  more  to  Kinross,  a 
small  town  where  they  have  a  Manufactory  of  Cutlery  ware,  it 
is  very  near  Loch  Leven :  Close  to  it  Sir  John  Bruce  has  a 
large  house  with  an  avenue ;  it  was  built  by  his  grandfather, 
the  Architect  of  Leslie  and  Melvile's  houses,  as  well  as  of  the 
front  of  Holyrood  in  Edinbro"1  in  Charles  the  Sd's  time.  This 
house  has  four  fronts  of  Eleven  windows,  with  Corinthian 
pilasters  at  the  Angles :  A  sort  of  Attick  window  is  above  the 
Entablature  which  together  with  a  roof  rather  of  a  high  pitch 
has  a  bad  effect  as  well  as  the  Disposition  of  the  offices  on  each 
side,  which  appear  as  dead  walls  paralel  with  the  house,  and 
there  is  an  ornament  of  Carving  or  Stucco  on  each  side  of  the 
door,  which  being  white,  appears  at  a  distance  as  if  there  had 
been  a  portico  to  the  door  that  had  been  taken  away,  and  has 
a  bad  effect ;  he  has  practiced  over  the  gates,  two  Cornu 
Copiae  in  a  segment  of  a  Circle,  which  does  not  look  well ;  it 
may  be  notwithstanding  a  very  good  house  within. 

The  garden  extends  to  the  lake  where  we  took  boat  to  go 

1  Rossie  Loch.  -  MilnathorL  a  Rev.  Mr.  Mair. 

4  I'ortmoak.  6  Rogasch. — Old  Stat,  Ac.,  vol  v.  171. 


MILNATHORT,  KINROSS,  LOCH  LEVEN.          279 

about  half  a  mile  to  the  island  of  the  Castle  of  Loch  Leven, 
which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  large 
ash  trees  grow  in  it.  The  Castle1  consists  of  five  floors,  the  two 
lowest  are  arched  over  ;  there  was  an  ascent  up  to  a  door  in 
the  second  floor,  and  a  narrow  staircase  by  another  way.  The 
walls  are  seven  feet  thick  and  closets  are  practiced  in  them  to 
the  south ;  To  the  south  also  was  the  Kitchen  and  they  say 
adjoyning  to  it  the  Chapel,  there  were  round  towers  at  two  of 
the  Corners  of  the  Enclosure :  Here  they  kept  Queen  Mary 
a  year,  and  she  escaped  when  they  were  at  morning  Mass :  a 
boat  was  ready,  and  horses  to  the  south  west.  She  went  to  the 
Abbey  of  Dundrenan,  and  there  embarked,  as  mentioned  before,2 
for  England. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LVI. 

DYSERT,  September  qth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  4th  we  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  rivulet 
which  falls  into  Loch  Leven  very  near  the  town,  from  which 
running  water  is  brought  through  the  town  :  Two  miles  further 
the  road  comes  in  at  Glandevin,  in  which  road  we  were  when  we 
went  to  Tullibarden,  leads  from  Creif  to  the  Queens  ferry  for 
Edinborough,  here  I  saw  limestone,  which  is  brought  four  miles 
from  the  Mountains  to  the  Southwest.  I  think  the  place  is 
called  Restenet.  We  left  this  road,  and  going  along  the  South 
Side  of  the  Lough,  we  came  out  of  Kinross-shire  (which  we  had 
entered  about  half  way  from  Falkland)  into  Fife  again ;  To- 
wards the  east  end  of  the  Lake  we  had  the  island  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  Shoar,  which  is  called  Inch  Lough  Leven.  In  it 
was  a  priory  dedicated  to  St.  Cerf  3  by  Brudens  a  Pictish  King, 
who  gave  it  to  the  Culdees,  David  the  first  granted  it  to  St. 
Andrews,  and  so  it  was  vested  in  the  Augustinian  Canons : 
Robert  Winters4  was  Prior  of  this  place  who  writ  in  old  Scotch 

-1  For  plan  and  views,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887, 
vol.  i.  pp.  146-149. 

2  See  page  25.  s  St.  Serf  or  Servanus. 

4  The  Lochleven  Chronicle  ;  or,  A  History  of  the  World,  from  Us  Creation  lo  the 
Captivity  of  James  I.,  in  Scotch  metre,  by  Andrew  Wintan. 


280          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Metre,  a  history  from  the  beginning  of  the  World  to  the  time 
of  James  1  st  when  he  lived  ;  which  is  in  the  Advocates  Library  : 
They  have  pike,  perch,  &  Eel  in  this  water. 

Leaving  the  lake  we  turned  to  the  South  and  came  to  Kirk- 
ness,  and  from  that  by  Sir  Michael  Markams,  two  miles  to 
Lough  Or,  where  I  saw  what  is  called  a  Roman  Camp  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Lake,  encompassed  by  the  lake,  and  a  Morass, 
it  is  small  and  irregular  towards  the  Lough,  the  fossee  that 
way  being  carried  circular  as  the  ground  happened  to  lye,  for  it 
appears  that  the  Lough  has  forsaken  the  Dyke.  There  is  a 
stone  causeway  to  it,  and  they  say  it  was  defended  by  a  rampart 
to  the  east,  where  there  is  a  Drain  now  made.  This  Camp  is 
near  300  yards  long  from  east  to  west  and  about  100  broad  at 
the  west  end.  On  the  heighth  to  the  south  over  the  circular 
part  are  ruins  of  a  chapel.  This  lake1  must  be  about  a  mile 
long  and  near  half  a  mile  broad,  it  affords  perch,  pike  and  Eels  : 
Towards  the  east  end  and  near  the  north  side,  is  a  round 
island  with  a  square  Castle  in  it  encompassed  with  a  Circular 
wall,  to  which  on  the  west  and  north  side  two  offices  were 
built.  There  seems  to  have  been  a  Causeway  with  a  Draw- 
bridge to  it,  and  now  people  can  walk  to  it,  the  water  being 
about  four  feet  deep,  there  are  foundations  of  walls  all  along 
the  Edge  of  the  lake  near  it,  and  foundations  of  a  circular 
building  appear :  This  Castle  belonged  to  Workclaws2  of  Tory, 
who  were  masters  of  the  greatest  part  of  Fife. 

Going  on  I  soon  crossed  this  stream  and  then  another  which 
I  believe  is  that  which  comes  from  Lough  Fitty :  About  a  mile 
to  the  west  of  Lough  Or,  I  saw  a  fine  plantation  with  house 
and  offices  which  belongs  to  Adams  the  Architect.  We 
ascended  the  hill,  came  into  the  Coal  Country,  and  passed  by  a 
place  called  Lough  Galley,3  over  the  Lough  of  that  name,  which 
place  belongs  to  Mr.  Elliot  a  Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  whose 
brother,  Captain  Elliot,  destroyed  Thurots  fleet :  From  this, 
another  stream  runs  which  we  passed  :  This  beautifull  country 
is  diversified  by  little  ridges  of  rocks  extending  from  east  to 
west,  which  cause  an  agreeable  variety. 

1  Loch  Ore,  now  drained  and  added  to  the  estate  of  Lochore. 

2  The  Wardlaws  of  Torry  ;  the  name  of  Robertus  Wardlaw  is  inscribed  on  the 
tower.  3  Lochgelly. 


LOCHORE,  LOCHGELLY,  KIRKCALDY.         281 

We  passed  by  a  Quarry  of  limestone  about  a  mile  from 
Lough  Galley,  &  came  to  Kirkaldy  six  miles  from  Lough  Or, 
passing  at  the  west  end  of  the  town  by  a  large  house  called 
Abbottshall,  which  was  the  Country  house  of  the  Abbott  of 
Dunfermling  :  We  passed  to  the  East  the  long  town  of  Kirk- 
caldy  and  came  in  a  mile  to  Dysart  to  General  Sinclairs  at  the 
west  end  of  the  town :  where  he  has  a  house  nicely  finished, 
and  there  are  gravel  walks  and  a  lawn  down  to  the  Sea,  this 
gentleman  is  brother  and  heir  to  Lord  Sinclair  who  forfeited  in 
1715.  He  has  here  great  Collieries.  The  wells  down  to  them 
are  eight  feet  in  Diameter,  cut  through  the  rocks  and  there  are 
wooden  stairs  down  to  the  bottom.  They  have  worked  150 
feet  deep,  raise  the  water  by  fire  engines,  and  are  making  one 
piston  about  50  inches  in  diameter  :  They  find  two  or  three 
Seams  one  after  another,  divided  by  rock.  Here  is  a  pier  for 
the  boats  to  come  and  load  with  Coal  and  Salt,  For  the 
General  has  large  Salt  pans. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LVII. 

DUMFERMLINE,  Sber  yh,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  5th  I  went  towards  Kirkaldy,  where 
there  are  three  or  four  contiguous  towns.  The  first  is  Sinclair, 
which  is  only  a  small  Village  with  an  old  Castle  situated  on  the 
seashore,  where  the  Sinclairs  formerly  resided ;  The  principal 
tower  is  Semicircular,  with  an  addition  of  part  of  the  square, 
and  there  are  two  or  three  round  towers,  the  next  town  is 
Pethhead,  and  then  there  is  a  little  space  between  it  and 
Kirkaldy,  and  last  of  all  is  ...  ,l  They  have  in  these 
towns  a  considerable  linnen  trade,  mostly  of  sailors  cheques, 
and  'tis  probable  there  are  about  1000  houses  in  them. 

From  thence  we  went  up  to  the  north  half  a  mile  to  Ender- 

teel2  to  the  Quarry  which  is  of  the  nature  of  the  Derbyshire 

Marble,  but  so  hard  that  they  make  Millstones  chiefly  of  one 

bed  of  it,  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  polish  ;  there  is  also  a  bad 

1  Linktown.  2  Inverteil  Quarry. 


282  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

yellow  cast  in  some  parts  of  it :  It  is  full  of  Trochi,  and 
Entrochi,  of  the  Conchas  Amoniae,  some  Mycetitae,  Coral,  and 
other  Shells,  and  I  saw  in  an  adjacent  rock  a  mass  of  Coral : 
The  Belemnites  are  in  the  Marble,  but  I  could  find  none  loose. 
I  took  specimens  of  all  these. 

We  came  in  two  miles  to  Kinghorn,  where  there  is  a  ferry 
seven  miles  over  to  Edinburgh,  which  passage,  together  with 
letting  houses,  is  the  support  of  this  small  town ;  which  is 
situated  on  a  head  of  land ;  We  passed  by  a  Lough,  a  mile 
round,  from  which  a  stream  flows  constantly  to  the  town.  At 
the  Sea  Cliffs  there  is  petrified  moss  formed  by  the  dropping  of 
the  water  from  the  rocks.  We  came  to  a  Quarry,  the  top  of 
which  is  a  fine  white  freestone,  and  below  it  is  limestone,  and 
so  are  the  quarries  on  to  the  west,  but  in  some  places  the  lime- 
stone is  below  the  level  of  the  Sea,  and  then  it  is  difficult  to 
raise  it  by  reason  that  the  water  comes  up  on  them ;  and  I  was 
told  that  below  the  level  of  the  Sea  it  is  all  limestone.  From 
this  quarry  they  take  the  finest  freestone  for  building. 

In  about  a  mile  more  we  came  to  Brunt  Island,1  where  they 
have  a  square  Church  with  a  Cupola  at  top.  They  have  a  fine 
harbour  which  will  hold  a  ship  of  300  tons,  &  into  this  place 
ships  come  in  bad  weather  ;  and  this  is  the  chief  support  of  the 
place,  the  people  not  applying  to  any  Manufacture.  There  is 
an  old  Parish  Church2  near  the  town  with  three  Arches  in  it, 
supported  by  Pillars :  over  this  flat  Country  there  is  a  high 
perpendicular  rocky  hill,  and  it  is  called  the  King's  Craig  ;3 
less  than  two  miles  brought  us  to  Aberdour  which  gives  title  to 
the  Earl  of  Moreton's  Eldest  Son,  here  the  Earl  has  a  small  seat 
and  an  Obelisk  built  on  an  Eminence  towards  the  Sea.  Here 
also  is  an  old  Castle  and  a  round  building  adjoyning  to  it  near 
the  Church  ;  here  was  a  Nunnery  of  Clares,  but  no  remains  or 
any  particular  ace*  of  it.  They  have  a  little  harbour,  and  carry 
on  some  linnen  trade  : 

Going  on  I  observed  the  high  ground  extending  to  the  west, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  it  a  high  narrow  hill  with  a  sharp 
top  about  a  mile  long,  the  north  side  being  covered  with  wood, 
as  is  the  south  side  of  the  other,  and  between  them  is  Sir 
Robert  Henderson's  house  situated  in  the  delightfull  Glyn  of 
1  Burntislancl.  2  The  Kirkton.  s  The  Bin. 


KINGHORN,  BURNTISLAND,  ABERDOUR.        283 

.  .  .  .1  We  turned  out  of  that  road  to  the  south  and  passed 
by  Dalgaty2  an  old  house  and  well  built  small  Church  which 
belonged  formerly  to  the  Marquis  of  Tweedale,  and  now  to  the 
Earl  of  Murray  : 3 

We  came  by  a  strand  to  Dunibrizel4  the  Earl  of  Murray's,  a 
good  house  tho"1  of  no  great  outward  appearance  ;  There  are 
some  fine  tapestry  and  pictures  in  it,  particularly  one  of  King 
Charles  the  1st  after  the  battle  of  Naseby  with  a  melancholy 
determined  countenance,  and  two  boys  holding  his  horse : 
near  the  house  a  very  elegant  Chapel  is  built  of  freestone  in 
chiselPd  work,  for  the  service  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  a 
burial  vault  under  it.  The  Earl  who  was  uncle  to  the  present, 
married  an  aunt  of  the  Duke  of  Argyle,  who  loved  building : 
The  situation  is  most  delightful,  and  commands  a  distinct 
view  of  Edinburgh,  to  which  it  is  almost  directly  opposite  ; 

We  came  in  a  mile  to  Inverkeathing,  where  there  is  a  natural 
basin,  which  if  it  were  cleansed  would  be  a  most  beautiful  har- 
bour :  The  town  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  there  are 
many  inhabitants  in  it  who  are  contented  with  the  products  of 
a  few  acres  of  ground  and  apply  to  no  kind  of  business  ;  Here 
was  a  Convent  of  Franciscans  ;  I  could  not  be  informed  of  any 
remains,  and  suppose  it  was  at  the  parish  Church  ;  the  ruined 
East  End  of  which  is  old,  and  so  is  the  tower.  A  little  below 
it  at  a  head  of  land  is  the  Queens  ferry  where  horses  and 
carriages  ferry  over  two  miles,  and  have  after  seven  miles  to  go 
to  Edinburgh  :  And  here  is  the  best  freestone  in  this  Country  : 
I  went  a  little  way  in  the  road  and  turned  to  the  west  to  Lord 
Moreton's  lead  mines  at  Casern  Hill  :5  They  have  been  worked 
but  a  little  time  by  the  mine  adventurers,  who  pay  to  the 
Lord  the  7th  dish  ;  I  took  a  specimen  of  the  steel  and  soft  ore. 

Came  in  three  miles  through  fine  vales  to  Dumfermling, 
which  is  a  town  most  beautifully  situated  on  a  hill  made  by 
the  winding  of  a  brook  that  forms  deep  glyns  or  Gulleys  on 
the  south  and  west  sides  of  it,  and  before  that,  running  from 
the  east,  makes  another  not  so  deep,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  the  town,  where  it  turns  at  the  south  west  angle  is  a 
natural  steep  ground  which  extends  from  east  to  west  in  a 

1  Fordel.  *  Dalgety.  3  Earl  of  Moray. 

4  Donibristle.  5  Castland  Hill ;  the  mine  was  soon  wrought  out. 


284  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

promontory  on  which  there  are  ruins  of  a  small  Castle  ;*  These 
glyns  are  finely  adorned  with  wood  on  one  side,  and  gardens 
behind  the  houses  on  the  other  to  the  west ;  but  on  the  south, 
both  sides  are  covered  with  wood  for  a  considerable  way  ;  and 
on  that  side  towards  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams  (having 
only  the  Castle  between)  was  situated  the  famous  Abbey  of 
Dumfermling,  it  was  in  some  degree  begun  by  Malcolm  Hid 
and  finished  by  Alexander  the  1st  before  the  year  1120,  was 
governed  by  a  Prior,  and  might  then  be  an  hospital,  for  it 
is  called  Monasterium  de  monte  infirmorum  :  But  Malcolm's 
son  David  1st  made  it  an  Abbey.  They  were  Benedictines. 
Burntisland,  called  formerly  Wester  Kinghorn,  was  the  Castle 
and  harbour  of  this  Abbey :  Kinghorn  and  Kirkaldy  also  be- 
longed to  them.  The  first  Abbot  Gosfrid  died  in  1154.  It 
was  dedicated  to  the  Trinity  and  St.  Margaret  Queen  of  Scot- 
land, &  was  vested  in  the  Crown  by  Parliament  in  the  time  of 
James  Vlth.  After  the  Reformation  it  was  given  to  Secre- 
tary Pitcairn,  afterwards  to  the  Master  of  Grey  and  then  to 
Alexander  Seton  first  made  Lord  Urquhart,  and  then  Earl  of 
Dumfermling  in  1605 :  The  Conventual  Brethern  of  it  who 
reformed,  had  their  portion  reserved  to  them  :  The  Church2 
has  been  a  noble  Saxon  building,  consisting  in  the  body  of 
eight  arches.  The  door  is  fine,  and  there  are  seven  narrow  arches 
turned  over  it :  A  more  modern  porch,  cut  in  Saxon  taste,  has 
been  added  to  it :  Originally  there  were  no  windows  over  the 
great  windows,  but  on  the  north  side  they  seem  to  have  been 
broke  out ;  the  upper  windows  towards  the  east  were  made 
with  angular  tops  and  round  pillars  on  each  side,  but  both  sides 
seem  to  have  failed  and  are  supported  by  large  buttresses  ;  and 
the  three  windows  towards  the  west  part  of  the  north  side  are 
Gothick,  with  small  narrow  Gothick  windows  over  them  :  There 
were  two  galleries  over  the  isles  with  large  single  Saxon  arches 
in  front  of  them  ;  The  pillars  are  large,  and  the  pair  to  the 
East  are  adorned  with  lines  that  twist  round,  and  the  next 
with  half  lozenges  with  lines  on  each  in  shape  of  the  head 
of  a  spear.  The  walls  of  the  towers  and  of  the  Church  are 
crowned  with  projecting  battlements  like  a  Castle  ;  The  tower 

1  Dunfermline  Palace.     See  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot., 
vol.  i.  pp.  514-519. 

2  See  Henderson's  History  of  Dunfermline,  1879,  pp.  14-244. 


DUNFERMLINE.  285 

was  built  with  a  spire  that  has  windows  in  it :  The  south  tower 
seems  to  have  been  taken  down  to  the  height  of  the  walls  of 
the  Church  on  account  of  a  great  crack  in  the  west  end,  which 
might  be  made  by  their  opening  a  Gothick  window  :  There  is 
a  round  window  over  the  door  divided  into  four  compartments 
by  a  Cross.  The  windows  consist  of  three  members,  the  grand 
door  to  the  west  of  five,  the  cornice  all  round  is  adorned  with 
heads  ;  There  were  two  Towers  on  each  side  of  the  middle  of 
the  Transept,  one  of  them  fell  down  about  six  years  agoe  and 
I  suppose  the  other  was  pulled  down.  The  stone  of  the  Shrine 
of  St.  Margaret,  seems  to  have  been  about  ten  feet  long  five 
broad  and  a  foot  thick  of  a  grey  kind  of  Marble,  and  there 
seem  to  have  been  five  pillars  on  each  side  to  support  the 
Shrine,  it  is  in  the  Middle  of  the  Church  near  the  East  end  ; 
so  that  if  the  high  altar  was  to  the  west,  it  must  have  been 
very  close  upon  it.  The  Transept  of  the  Church  is  destroyed, 
&  one  side  of  a  new  Gothick  Quire  is  standing  ;  which  appears 
to  have  been  the  whole  width  of  the  transept  and  consisted 
of  five  fine  Gothic  windows  ;  but  there  are  no  signs  of  the 
Quire  on  the  south  side ;  It  seems  to  have  been  widened  to 
take  in  the  six  tombs  of  plain  flat  stones  over  the  Kings  of 
Scotland  who  were  doubtless  buryed  in  the  Church  yard,  as  they 
lye  near  the  north  side  of  the  new  quire  :  There  is  a  ceiling 
of  boards  made  to  the  Church  about  as  high  as  the  top  of  the 
large  arches,  rising  gradually  towards  the  west  end ;  and  when 
it  approaches  the  gallery,  it  rises  higher  so  as  to  be  above  it, 
and  has  an  exceeding  bad  effect  to  the  eye,  but  was  contrived 
to  throw  the  sound  of  the  voice  upon  the  Audience  : 

To  the  south  of  the  Church  was  the  Refectory  ;  Between 
the  windows  are  ornamental  buttresses,  in  each  of  which  is  a 
nich  for  a  statue.  One  window  towards  the  east  end  is  built 
with  an  Arch  setting  out,  and  an  arch  of  communication  within 
a  bow  window,  from  which  I  suppose  there  was  some  portion 
of  Scripture  read  at  the  time  of  eating,  and  it  is  called  the 
library,  where  the  Bible  or  Legends  might  be  kept,  out  of 
which  they  read  :  There  were  six  windows  to  the  west,  and  one 
larger  than  the  others  to  the  East,  where  the  great  table  might 
be.  It  is  called  the  Frair  Hall.  It  was  about  30  feet  wide  in 
the  Clear  by  120  :  If  I  do  not  mistake,  under  it  were  two  arched 
Vaults  ;  &  adjoyning  to  it  are  buildings  which  extend  further 


286  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

to  the  south  with  single  narrow  Gothic  windows  and  this  was 
probably  the  Dormitory  : 

From  the  Refectory  to  the  south  side  of  the  tower  of  the 
Church  was  a  building  called  the  Skaipell,  of  the  meaning  of 
which  I  could  not  be  informed  ;  But  have  since  met  with  that 
word  as  signifying  a  Tennis  Court :  To  the  west  of  the  Church 
are  some  buildings  which  were  erected  after  the  Reformation 
by  James  Vlth  with  an  inscription  on  them,  and  adjoyning  to 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  Refectory  is  a  grand  gateway :  To 
the  west  of  this  seems  to  have  been  the  Abbot's  appartments 
and  those  for  strangers  consisting  of  two  floors,  to  each  of 
which  was  a  grand  room  and  a  smaller  at  the  end  of  it ;  the 
principal  great  room  is  below  :  There  were  arched  Vaults  under 
it ;  Here  the  Kings  of  Scotland  resided  after  the  Reformation, 
when  they  came  into  these  parts,  the  royal  bed  being  now  to 
be  seen  which  was  sent  from  Denmark  by  the  Queen  of  James 
6th  who  was  received  here  as  it  is  said,  and  that  it  was  the 
marriage  bed  ;  and  Charles  1st  they  say  was  born  here.  These 
grand  appartments  are  built  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  with  spaces 
for  either  windows  or  chimneys  to  the  number  of  twelve  and 
buttresses  between  them,  and  is  a  very  grand  work ;  there 
having  been  arched  vaults  under  them  ;  and  the  building,  as 
seen  from  the  side  of  the  hill  below,  appears  of  a  stupendous 
height,  each  compartment  for  the  windows  is  about  ten  feet 
and  the  buttress  5  feet  in  all  160  feet  in  length. 

The  Royal  bed l  is  partly  preserved  in  the  Inn.  The  feet 
were  large  and  adorned  with  carved  work,  the  upper  part  being 
a  lyon's  head ;  there  is  a  beautifull  carved  Cornice  to  the  lower 

1  '  Within  these  30  years,  there  was  to  be  seen  in  the  bed-chamber  of  an  inn  at 
Dunfermline,  the  nuptial  bed  of  Queen  Anne,  which  she  is  said  to  have  brought 
along  with  her  from  Denmark.  For  this  piece  of  royal  furniture,  the  innkeeper, 
Mrs.  Walker,  a  zealous  Jacobite,  entertained  a  very  high  veneration.  Bishop 
Pocock  of  Ireland,  happening  to  be  in  her  house,  and  having  seen  the  bed, 
offered  her  50  guineas  for  it,  which  she  refused,  telling  him,  "That  she  still 
retained  so  great  reverence  for  the  two  royal  personages  whose  property  it  was, 
and  who  slept  in  it  when  they  resided  here,  and  to  their  posterity,  all  the  gold 
and  silver  in  Ireland  was  not  fit  to  buy  it."  Some  time  before  her  death,  Mrs. 
Walker  made  a  present  of  the  Queen's  bed  to  the  Earl  of  Elgin,  an  heritor  in 
this  parish.  The  bed  is  of  walnut-tree,  of  curious  workmanship,  and  ornamented 
with  several  very  antique  figures  neatly  carved.' — Parish  of  Dunfermline,  by 
Revs.  A.  Maclean  and  J.  Fernie,  1794.  Old  Slat.  Ace.  of  Scot.,  vol.  xiii.  p.  448. 
The  Earl  of  Elgin  writes  (1887)  :  '  The  pieces  which  agree  with  the  description 


DUNFERMLINE.  287 

part,  and  it  is  divided  into  four  compartments  by  Modillions 
adorned  with  heads,  all  the  parts  between  being  finely  carved  : 
The  pillars  at  the  head  consist  of  a  figure  of  a  Woman,  on 
carved  pedestals,  they  hold  up  the  garment  with  one  hand,  and 
in  the  other  is  a  Violin  hanging  down,  those  at  the  feet  are 
men  with  beards ;  a  Cornu  Copise  of  flowers  covers  them  in 
part  behind,  and  Clothes  on  the  head  to  which  they  hold  up, 
one  hand  hangs  down  also  behind,  the  other  holds  the  garment 
before,  on  the  head  is  a  pot  of  flowers,  on  that  a  beautifull  Vase 
with  a  long  neck  the  belly  of  which  is  adorned  with  four  heads, 
the  whole  being  carved,  &  this  supports  a  Corinthian  Capital, 
the  women  are  the  same,  except  that  the  clothes  on  the  head 
come  down  narrow  below  the  breasts,  and  they  have  not  the 
hand  lifted  up  to  the  head.  The  Vase  and  capitals  seem  to  be 
walnut  and  the  lower  part  of  the  bed :  but  the  rest  is  a  deep 
red  wood  well  polished,  and  so  is  the  cornice  of  the  bedstead 
below,  for  there  is  nothing  rests  on  the  Capitals :  The  head 
piece  remains,  which  is  a  woman  lying  in  repose,  a  dog  at  her 
head  and  a  stag  approaching  towards  her ;  on  each  side  is  a 
sphinx.  These  seem  to  have  been  emblems  of  fidelity  in  the 
woman  ;  of  benevolence  in  the  man,  and  of  wisdom  and  prudence 
in  both ;  The  top,  if  there  was  any  is  lost,  and  there  seems  to 
be  something  wanting  to  the  head. 

They  have  Seceders  here;  and  likewise  Mr.  GlassideV  Church 
who  was  deprived  for  not  executing  the  orders  of  the  assembly, 
but  they  do  not  differ  from  the  Established  Kirk.  There  is  a 
lough 2  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  town,  from  which  they 
have  brought  water  almost  sufficient  to  supply  the  inhabitants. 
This  Town  thrives  in  Manufacturers ;  they  make  much  table 
linnen  of  all  kinds,  ticking,  carpets,  and  striped  woolen  stuffs 
for  womens  ware.  It  consists  chiefly  of  a  long  Street,  a  back 
street  which  is  shorter,  and  a  cross  street  at  the  west  end ;  and 
must  have  in  it  above  a  thousand  families.  They  compute 
within  the  parish  there  are  towards  8000  people,  taking  in 
those  in  the  Country  as  well  as  the  Town. — I  am,  £c. 

given  by  Bishop  Pococke  were  so  much  decayed,  that  it  would  have  been 
scarcely  possible  to  have  used  them  for  this  purpose  [bedstead].  They  have 
therefore  been  set  up  as  a  chimney-piece  [at  Broomhall],  in  which  form  they  are 
more  likely  to  be  preserved.' 

1  Glassites,  followers  of  Mr.  Glass.  2  Cairncubie. 


288          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LETTER  LVIII. 

DUNBLANE  IN  PERTHSHIRE,  Sepr.  yth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  6th  I  left  Dunfermling  and  saw  two 
or  three  Laws  not  far  from  it,  some  of  them  are  planted  round 
with  trees :  we  soon  had  a  view  of  the  Forth,  which  upwards  is 
extremely  beautifull,  there  being  a  distant  prospect  of  the  fine 
country  on  the  other  side ;  In  three  miles  we  came  to  a  place 
called  Torbyburn,  and  then  to  Torby  itself  where  there  are 
Salt  works :  This  place  they  pronounced  Torry,  and  up  higher 
on  one  side  of  the  Burne,  they  told  me  were  the  remains  of 
Workdaws1  Castle,  who  as  mentioned  before,  commanded  almost 
all  Fife. 

Going  a  mile  further  we  came  to  Cullross  or  Kyllenross. 
This  is  just  within  the  Shire  of  Perth,  into  which  we  entered 
again ;  it  is  a  small  town  and  was  erected  into  a  Burg  of 
Barony  in  1484.  The  present  parish  Church,  was  the  Abbey 
Church  of  the  Cistercians  founded  here  by  Malcolm  Earl  of 
Fife  in  1217,  the  Monks  being  brought  from  Kinloss.  Alex- 
ander Colvill  was  the  last  Abbot,  and  his  brother  Sr  James  of 
Ochiltry  Bart,  was  in  1604  made  Lord  Colvil  of  Culross,  to 
whom  the  Abbey  was  granted.  The  tower  is  in  the  Saxon 
style,  and  so  is  a  door  to  the  south  of  it  which  was  the  Entrance 
of  the  Convent ;  some  Gothic  doors  are  built  near  it ;  in  a 
Chapel  to  the  North  is  a  fine  Monument  to  Mr  George  Bruce 
and  his  Lady  with  their  Couchant  Statues,  and  their  three  sons 
and  five  daughters  kneeling  below.  Going  on,  I  saw  the  old 
small  parish  Church  of  Culross,  which  is  patched  up  with 
several  kinds  of  buildings,  and  over  the  doors  are  tombstones 
with  Crosses  on  them ;  over  the  west  door  is  an  oblong  square 
window  separated  from  the  door  only  by  a  single  stone  ;  this 
west  end  seems  to  be  of  great  antiquity. 

We  proceeded  and  crossed  a  stony  heath  about  two  measured 
miles,  passing  by  Tullyallan  Church  and  a  large  old  ruinous 
house  on  the  river.  We  then  crossed  a  rivulet,  and  came  into 

1  Ward  laws.     See  note,  p.  280. 


TORRYBURN,  CULROSS,  CLACKMANNAN.     289 

Clackmanan  Shire  about  that  place.  This  is  a  small  Shire, 
consisting  only  of  five  parishes.  The  river  appeared  very 
much  like  the  Thames  towards  Gravesend :  and  when  we  came 
near  Clackmanan,  the  river  was  most  delightfull :  we  ascended 
to  Clackmanan,  a  poor  small  town  situated  on  a  single  hill, 
with  the  Castle  of  Sir  Henry  Bruce,  at  the  west  end  of  it, 
whose  family  produced  five  Kings  and  Queens  of  Scotland ; 
And  in  it  we  saw  the  Sword  and  Helmet l  of  K.  Robert  Bruce  ; 
the  Castle  consists  of  five  floors  two  of  which  are  arched,  there 
being  a  large  room  and  a  smaller  on  each  floor.  From  the  top 
of  it  is  a  most  charming  view  of  the  windings  of  the  Forth, 
•especially  of  two  islands  a  little  higher,  and  of  Sterling  with 
its  Castle  on  a  single  long  hill,  as  well  as  of  all  the  Country 
round  and  of  the  river  below. 

From  this  place  we  went  two  measured  miles  to  the  North 
to  ...  2  Lord  Cathcarts,  on  a  rising  ground  about  a  mile  from 
the  mountains.  The  approach  to  it  is  round  three  sides  of  the 
plantations,  and  by  a  Village  partly  new  built,  where  the 
present  Lord  has  settled  a  Manufacture  of  Osnaburgs.  Half  a 
mile  further  stands  the  House  3  of  a  very  singular  form,  which 
•consists  of  an  oblong  square  pile  of  buildings  to  which  a  Fabric 
is  added  at  each  end  with  a  bow  or  recess  of  three  sides  at  each 
end,  and  to  the  Western  building  a  large  semicircular  bow  is 
joyned,  which  with  the  additional  building,  forms  a  very  fine 
room,  a  lobby  being  taken  off  it  at  one  end  &  a  staircase  &c. 
at  the  other.  That  below  is  the  dining  room,  and  both  com- 
mand a  most  delightfull  view  towards  Sterling ;  as  the  Leads 
at  the  top  doe  of  the  whole  country.  The  house  is  crowned 
all  round  with  battlements,  and  with  pediments  in  the  middle, 
a  Cornice  with  plain  Modilions  ranging  round.  The  pediments 
at  each  end  are  adorned  at  the  bottom  with  a  plain  Architrave 
but  not  in  the  fronts.  In  the  middle  of  the  entrance  is  a 
balcony,  and  in  the  back  part  a  Gallery  between  the  two  bows, 
which  is  supported  by  wooden  pillars  below.  The  offices  are 
hid  by  walls  built  with  battlements  and  square  towers  at  the 
corners,  &  sheds  are  built  against  the  wall  for  several  uses. 

1  Bequeathed  by  Mrs.  Bruce  in  1791  to  the  Earl  of  Elgin. 

2  Sauchie,  now  the  property  of  the  Earl  of  Mansfield. 

3  Schaw  Park  House.  -  •  •'- 


290  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

The  whole  is  made  as  white  as  possible  and  the  walls  at  a 
distance  make  it  appear  like  a  very  grand  house.  The  other 
rooms  of  the  house  are  very  convenient.  The  two  grand  rooms 
are  highly  adorned  with  pictures :  The  ground  is  laid  out  in 
lawn  near  the  house,  and  the  hills  to  the  east  are  planted  with 
Clumps  and  groves ;  in  front  of  the  house  the  top  of  the 
garden  wall  appears,  which  is  built  to  humour  the  ground,  the 
wall  is  only  on  one  side  and  lined  with  brick,  it  is  a  fine 
exposition  to  the  south  and  south  west,  and  will  be  very 
beautifull  when  it  is  finished.  This  estate  came  by  his  Mother, 
heiress  of  Sir  John  Shaw, 

Close  to  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  is  the  seat  of  Charles 
Areskine1  Lord  Justice  Clerk,  called  Alva,  he  is  one  of  the 
Lords  of  the  Session  ;  There  are  fine  woods  about  it,  and  up 
the  side  of  the  hills  ;  and  to  the  North  east  up  the  Mountain, 
on  the  same  rivulet  is  Castle  Campbell,  said  to  be  the  first 
residence  of  the  Campbell  family.  From  this  place  I  came  two 
miles  to  Alloa  a  very  disagreeable  Coal  town.  Here  is  the  seat 
of  the  late  Earl  of  Mar  (who  forfeited  Anno  1715)  now  of 
Lord  Erskine  his  eldest  son,  much  admired  for  its  situation :  it 
is  on  a  flat,  half  a  mile  from  the  river  :  The  gardens  are  laid 
out  in  the  old  way,  with  four  Vistaes,  the  one  is  to  the  East ; 
another  to  the  south  takes  in  Lord  Dunmore''s  house,  and  there 
is  a  fine  avenue  that  way  to  the  river  :  It  has  a  view  of  Sterling 
Castle  to  the  west ;  To  the  East  it  is  finely  planted  in  triangles 
after  the  taste  of  King  Charles  the  Second's  time.  But  in 
reality  the  place  is  finer  in  prospect  than  on  the  spot ;  There  is 
a  tolerable  house  built  to  the  Castle. 

I  came  on  from  Alloa  having  all  the  way  for  four  miles  the 
Castle  of  Sterling  in  view,  till  I  came  within  two  miles  of  it, 
when  after  passing  two  rivulets  on  bridges  we  turned  to  the 
north  west,  and  went  by  the  side  of  the  Abbey  Craig  on  which 
I  observed  a  square  fortification  at  top  ;  one  of  the  rivers  was 
the  Alan,  called  above  Glin  Knig  water  on  which  Dunblane 
stands ;  and  going  directly  north,  after  travelling  seven  com- 
puted miles  we  arrived  at  Dunblane  ;  we  had  passed  a  fine  place 
adorned  with  wood  up  the  side  of  the  hills  to  the  right  which 
is  very  beautifull. — I  am,  &c. 

1  Lord  Alva — C.  Erskine  of  Aberdona. 


ALVA,  ALLOA,  DUNBLANE.  291 

LETTER  LIX. 

STIRLING,  Sepr.  %th  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Dunblane,  though  a  poor  town  as  to  buildings, 
is  very  pleasantly  situated  on  the  river  Alan,  consisting  chiefly 
of  one  street  built  paralel  with  the  river,  and  the  Cathedral  is 
at  the  end  of  it.  There  was  anciently  a  Convent  of  Culdees 
here,  which  continued  after  it  was  made  a  Bishop^s  See  by 
David  the  lid.  St.  Blaan  was  head  of  the  Convent  in  the  reign 
of  Keneth  the  Hid  from  whom  it  has  its  name,  Dunblane, 
(Blane^s  hill  or  fort).  The  first  Bishop  whose  name  is  met  with 
is  about  1150  ;  Bishop  Finlay  called  Dermoch  built  the  bridge 
before  1419,  which  is  a  fine  Arch  42  feet  wide,  and  twelve  broad: 
it  appears  to  have  been  pulled  down  and  new  built,  and  the 
tradition  is  that  the  Bishop  thinking  it  weak  built  another 
arch  over  a  new  one  to  make  it  stronger.  The  tower  is  at  the 
side  of  the  present  building  of  the  Cathedral  and  appears  to 
have  been  at  the  west  end  of  a  Fabric  which  joyned  on  to  it, 
and  might  have  been  the  first  Church,  perhaps  of  the  Culdees  : 
two  Gothic  stories  of  a  light  coloured  stone  appear  to  have 
been  built  on  five  Saxon  stories  of  red  freestone,  the  same  as 
the  rest  of  the  present  buildings.  The  body  of  the  Church 
consists  of  eight  light  Gothic  arches,  over  each  of  them  are  two 
Gothic  windows,  and  in  the  isles  a  Gothic  window  to  each 
division  into  four  parts.  The  west  window  is  very  fine  and 
lofty,  &  built  double,  so  as  there  is  room  to  go  between  the 
inner  and  outer  window.  The  door  is  beautifull  and  consists 
of  about  a  hundred  members,  computing  every  minute  member. 
The  Quire  only  is  the  present  Church,  and  consists  of  six 
windows  on  the  south  side,  that  which  is  farthest  to  the  East 
and  to  the  west  being  narrower  than  the  others  and  consist  of 
two  parts,  the  others  of  four :  There  is  only  one  on  the  north 
side  answering  to  the  most  eastern  window  on  the  South  side. 
The  East  window  is  extremely  beautifull  ending  in  four  parts 
at  top,  adorned  with  circles  between  the  Gothic  Arches,  and 
there  are  as  many  Gothic  arches  in  the  middle  ;  on  each  side  of 
it  is  a  long  Gothic  window,  and  all  of  them  rise  to  the  top  of 
the  Church.  The  isle  continues  the  whole  length  on  the  north 


292  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

side,  but  is  now  divided  to  the  north  of  the  Quire  into  a  School 
and  Vestry  ;  the  four  Stalls  on  each  side  at  the  west  end  of  the 
Choir  remain  with  the  fine  ornaments  over  them  of  carved 
Gothic  pilasters,  and  there  are  13  Stalls  on  each  side,  a  division 
being  made  at  the  sixth  as  for  the  Chantor  and  Treasurer. 
There  is  a  Sepulchral  nich  on  the  south  side  of  the  Quire.  The 
church  yard  is  over  the  river,  which  is  to  the  west  of  it.  To 
the  south  was  the  Bishop's  house,  the  ruins  of  which  are  seen, 
which  were  demolished  by  undermining,  it  extended  all  down 
to  the  end  of  the  library  :  opposite  to  it  were  the  Canons 
houses  which  are  standing.  In  a  street  to  the  east  of  the 
Church  are  remains  of  the  small  house  in  which  Bishop  Leighton 
and  the  reformed  Bishops  lived.  The  See  of  Dunblane  at  the 
Reformation  was  computed  to  be  worth  ,£313  one  of  the  least 
whose  Rents  were  paid  in  wheat,  beare,  meal  and  oats.  At  the 
west  end  of  the  spot  on  which  the  Bishop's  house  stood,  is  a 
library  founded  by  Bishop  Leighton  who  sent  his  books  to  it ; 
but  gave  some  to  the  library  at  Glasgow  :  There  is  a  good 
Collection  of  Books  in  Divinity,  and  they  lend  them  to  every 
one  who  enters  his  name  and  gives  half  a  guinea  for  the  use  of 
the  library. 

They  have  a  small  Manufactory  of  linnen,  and  thread,  and 
Shoes,  which  they  send  to  Glasgow : 

There  is  a  Seceding  house  set  up  here  on  their  displeasure 
being  taken  that  the  patron  of  the  living  would  not  accept  of 
their  recommendation,  but  they  do  not  differ  in  Doctrine ; 
The  Tenants  of  the  Patron  and  some  others  set  up  the  person 
they  would  have  put  in  as  a  lecturer  in  the  Kirk  and  raise  a 
subscription  of  £50  a  year. 

There  is  a  pleasant  walk  a  measured  mile  long  over  the  river 
to  the  soutli  east,  terminating  at  a  Gentleman's  house,  called 
Kippenross,  where  there  is  a  Sycamore  which  measures  at  the 
root  and  branches  34  feet  round,  and  eighteen  at  the  smallest 
part,  four  great  branches  grow  out  of  it :  There  are  plantations 
on  each  side  of  the  walk,  it  is  mostly  hanging  ground  to  the 
river,  and  on  the  whole  very  beautifull. 

I  rid  a  mile  and  a  half  to  Sheriff  Muir,  to  see  the  place  of 
battle  between  the  Duke  of  Argyle  and  the  Rebels  under  Lord 
Mar  in  1715.  The  King's  forces  were  encamped  four  days  on 


DUNBLANE,  SHERIFFMUIR,  KEIR.  293 

an  eminence  defended  by  a  vale,  and  extended  half  a  mile  down 
to  Dunblane  ;  The  Rebels  on  a  moor  to  the  north  west  of  the 
Alan  :  They  met  on  the  height  of  the  hill,  and  the  right  wing 
of  the  enemy  broke  the  left  of  the  King's  forces,  and  pursued 
them  to  the  lines,  but  finding  that  Argyle  had  broke  their  left 
wing,  they  returned  and  were  cut  to  pieces,  about  1000  of  the 
enemy  falling  :  We  saw  several  little  risings  where  "'tis  supposed 
the  dead  were  buried  ;  They  pursued  them  even  through  the 
Alan  and  up  the  Mountains,  and  several  of  the  Enemy  were 
drowned  in  the  Alan. 

We  had  here  a  pleasing  view  of  the  Neighbouring  Country, 
which  includes  Strathallen,  the  Strath  on  the  Forth,  and  ex- 
tends almost  to  Monteith  and  Lough  Loumond,  all  very  fine, 
though  much  intermixed  with  Heath.  Most  of  the  Gentlemen 
of  this  County  are  of  the  Church  of  England,  but  some  of 
their  ladies  go  to  the  Kirk. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LX. 

EDINGBURGH,  Sepr.  lotk,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  8th  I  came  from  Dunblane  to  Sterling 
and  passed  near  Kier  to  the  west  a  large  house  and  fine  plantations 
of  Mr.  Sterling  who  has  a  considerable  Estate  there.  We  crossed 
the  Alan  again,  and  going  by  the  banks  of  it,  went  near  the  long 
rocky  hill  called  Abbey  Craig  on  which  I  thought  I  saw  some 
fortifications  :  And  we  had  to  the  west  Craig  Fort,  a  small 
rocky  hill  covered  with  wood  to  the  east,  with  the  house  at  the 
foot  of  it  belonging  to  another  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Ster- 
ling. I  remarked  in  the  fossees  on  each  side  of  the  road  a  bed 
of  Oysters  and  other  Shells  about  two  feet  from  the  surface  and 
a  foot  thick,  which  they  are  digging  out  for  manure.  This 
convinced  me  of  what  I  had  imagined  as  I  came  to  Dunblane 
(viz)  that  the  flat  grounds  beyond  Alloa  and  on  this  side  of  it 
were  formerly  part  of  the  bay. 

We  went  near  the  tower  of  Cambus  Keneth  in  a  peninsula 
made  by  the  winding  of  the  river  in  the  Shire  of  Clackmanan  ; 


294  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

which  belonged  to  the  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine  founded 
by  David  1st  in  1147,  nothing  remained  but  the  tower  and  the 
plain  monuments  of  some  of  the  Kings.  Abbot  Alexander 
Miller  was  the  first  president  of  Session  on  the  institution  of 
the  College  of  Justice  by  James  Vth  and  was  employed  by  him 
in  many  embassies.  We  crossed  over  the  Forth  to  Sterling  on 
a  fine  bridge  of  four  arches.  From  the  Castle  I  saw,  up  the 
river,  Blair,  a  large  seat  of  the  Drummonds. 

Sterling  is  finely  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  on  the  west 
end  of  which  is  the  Castle,  commanding  a  most  extensive 
prospect  of  a  beautifull  Country,  and  the  windings  of  the  Forth 
which  runs  24  miles  to  Clackmanan,  that  is  but  five  miles 
distant  by  land  :  There  is  a  broad  short  street  which  leads  up 
to  the  Castle  ;  the  rest  of  the  town  is  not  well  laid  out :  There 
are  not  the  least  remains  of  the  Franciscan  Fryers  ;  it  is  now  a 
garden  and  called  the  Friary :  it  was  founded  by  James  4th  in 
1494  who  often  dined  with  the  Monks  here,  assisted  at  Mass, 
and  passed  his  Lent  at  the  Convent,  and  on  good  friday  dined 
with  the  Community  on  bread  and  water  and  upon  his  bare 
knees.  I  could  get  no  ace*  of  the  Dominican  Monastery 
founded  by  Alexander  the  2d  near  the  walls.  Richard  the  2d 
is  said  to  have  died  in  this  Castle,  and  to  have  been  buried  in 
the  Church  at  the  high  altar :  At  the  upper  end  of  the  broad 
street  is  a  magnificent  building,  though  in  the  bad  taste  of  the 
time  of  James  Vth,  Entering  it  by  a  gateway  to  the  left  is  the 
fine  Gothic  building  of  the  Collegiate  Church  of  the  Royal 
Chapel  of  Sterling  erected  into  a  Collegiate  Church  by  Pope 
Alexander  6th  at  the  desire  of  James  4th  with  all  the  officers  of 
a  Royal  Quire ;  The  Dean  being  the  Queen's  Confessor,  with 
Episcopal  Jurisdiction.  The  Deanry  was  first  in  the  provost 
of  Kirkheugh,  then  in  the  Bishop  of  Galloway,  and  was  by  ' 
James  6th  anexed  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Dunblane  :  This  is  the 
only  Church  in  the  town  ;  from  this  place  we  returned  into  the 
Street,  and  passing  by  the  Duke  of  Argyle's  ruinous  house  we 
ascended  to  the  Castle :  The  site  is  a  high  rock,  which  appears 
in  some  of  the  back  streets  of  the  town  below.  I  observed  it 
was  that  black  granite  in  small  grains  which  is  so  common  in 
Scotland.  We  first  came  to  the  outer  part,  which  was  built  in 
Queen  Anne^s  time,  and  was  shewn  opposite  to  it,  the  battery 


CAMBUSKENNETH,  STIRLING,  BANNOCKBURN.    295 

which  the  Rebels  planted  in  1745,  that  was  soon  silenced  by  the 
Cannon  from  above :  I  saw  here  the  brass  Cannons  with  the 
name  of  Sidney  on  them  which  were  taken  by  the  Rebels  at  Fal- 
kirk,  and  afterwards  retaken  here,  with  many  other  Canon,  if  I 
mistake  not,  after  the  Defeat  at  Culloden.  We  then  came 
within  another  fortification  and  from  that  went  into  the  part 
where  the  palace l  stands  which  is  built  round  a  court :  To  the 
west  is  the  old  part,  to  the  north  the  Chapel  which  is  new,  and 
to  the  east  the  parliament  house,1  which  is  a  long  room  with 
thick  walls  and  built  like  a  Castle.  The  grand  body  of  the 
building  is  to  the  south,  with  five  windows  every  way,  being 
itself  a  pile  of  building  round  a  small  court  of  the  most  extra- 
ordinary architecture  of  James  Vth  with  strange  kinds  of  pillars 
one  over  another,  and  as  strange  figures  resembling  Careatides 
at  a  time  when  architecture  in  Italy  was  in  its  highest  perfec- 
tion. I  went  into  this  part,  into  the  grand  room,  destined  for 
the  Queers  Ladies  ;  also  State  Apartment,  then  the  King's  and 
another  grand  room  I  suppose  leading  to  his  which  was  locked  : 
in  the  small  court  the  Lyons  were  kept.  To  the  rooms  of 
State,  there  are  ceilings  of  wood  adorned  with  carvings  of 
heads  &c.  The  prospect  from  the  Castle  is  extremely  fine. 
There  is  always  a  Compy  of  100  invalids  here.  This  town 
chiefly  subsists  by  shops,  and  the  great  through  fare  to  the 
North  especially  from  Glasgow. 

I  proceeded  on  my  journey,  and  came  in  a  mile  to  St.  Ninians 
where  there  is  an  old  Church  tower,  and  a  modern  Kirk.  We 
passed  Bannock  Burn,  famous  for  the  entire  defeat  of  the  English 
by  the  Scots  under  Robert  Bruce,  where  Robert  the  2d  saved 
himself  in  a  boat :  And  the  Scots  were  quiet  for  a  year  or  two 
after :  We  turned  out  of  the  high  road  to  avoid  the  droves  of 
Cattle  going  to  Falkirk  fair,  and  travelled  two  miles  to  the 
East  having  a  fine  view  of  the  river,  and  a  little  beyond  Bruce 
Castle,  we  turned  to  the  South  and  were  within  a  mile  of  Airth  ; 
in  the  road  I  saw  some  petrifications  of  Bellemnites,  Trochi, 
Entrochi,  and  Conchae  Anomiae,  which  were  very  sparry,  but  I 
do  not  know  from  what  place  they  were  brought. 

We  came  to  the  river  Carron ;  j  ust  to  the  north  of  it  was 

1  For  plans  and  views,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot. ,  1887, 
vol.  i.  pp.  464-478. 


296  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Arthur's  oun  or  oven,1  near  a  mill  for  the  building  of  which,  to 
the  eternal  reproach  of  the  owner,  this  noble  Remain  of 
antiquity  was  destroyed.  They  are  making  great  buildings 
here  for  Iron  smelting  houses.  There  is  a  harbour  near  it  on 
the  river  Avon. 

We  came  on  to  Falkirk,  a  long  town  of  one  street.  But  the 
country  near  it  is  infamous  for  the  scandalous  defeat  of  our 
army  by  the  rebels  in  1746,  which  in  1747  was  related  to  me2 
in  this  manner  by  a  person  I  met  with  on  the  spot  and  showed 
me  the  whole  scene  of  the  battle.  The  General  had  been 
informed  the  day  before  that  the  Enemy  were  making  round 
on  the  hill,  and  despised  them :  This  intelligence  was  repeated 
to  no  purpose.  It  was  on  the  17th  of  Jany  1746,  and  in  the 
morning  not  very  early,  They  were  told  the  Enemy  was  on  the 
hill  near  them ;  The  officers  were  most  of  them  in  bed :  our 
people  were  called  to  arms  and  despising  the  enemy,  marched 
up  the  hill ;  the  weather  was  not  good ;  the  Enemy  fired  on 
them  from  the  height ;  and  the  horse  were  flanked  by  their  fire 
from  a  defile,  which  I  saw.  The  regiment  in  which  a  certain 
Lieutenant  Col.  commanded,  fled  under  pretence  of  misunder- 
standing the  word  of  command,  he  endeavoured  to  rally  them, 
but  to  no  purpose,  and  all  flying,  he  went  and  fought  at  the 
head  of  another  regiment.  Thus  ended  this  day  of  reproach. 

We  went  on  six  miles  to  Linlithgow  commonly  called  Lith- 
gow,  which  consists  of  a  street ;  it  may  be  three  quarters  of  a 
measured  mile  long  :  Here  is  the  very  handsome  modern  Gothic 
Church  formerly  belonging  to  the  Palace  which  stands  just 
before  it ;  it  is  hewn  freestone  inside  and  out,  and  remains  much 
in  the  same  way  as  it  was  fitted  up  at  the  Reformation,  with 
the  King's  Semicircular  Seat  against  a  pillar  opposite  to  the 
pulpit:  There  is  a  Chapel  to  the  South,  in  which  they  say 
James  4th  was  attending  Vespers,  and  an  old  man  came  to  him 
and  desired  him  not  to  go  to  the  battle  against  the  English  at 
Flodden  Field,  for  that  he  would  not  return  ;  immediate  search 
being  made  the  old  man  could  not  be  found,  and  'tis  supposed 
to  have  been  a  contrivance  of  the  Queen's.  I  had  no  informa- 
tion of  a  Monastery  founded  for  Carmelites  in  1290  by  the 

1  See  Gordon's  It  in.  Sep.,  PI.  4,  pp.  24-32. 
-  See  p.  3.     This  also  confirms  note  3,  p.  I. 


FALKIRK,  LINLITHGOW,  HOPETOUN.        297 

Citizens.  The  palace l  is  built  round  a  court,  the  south  and 
west  sides  by  James  5th,  the  north  by  James  6th.  The  par- 
liament house  is  a  fine  room,  the  south  end  is  all  chimney,  but 
divided  into  three  below,  by  two  pillars  with  Gothic  Capitals 
adorned  with  foliage  and  above  by  two  walls,  at  the  north  end 
is  a  musick  gallery,  &  in  the  west  side  a  gallery  is  practiced  in 
the  walls  for  the  hearers,  to  the  East  are  windows  ;  on  the  west 
side  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  was  born  :  In  the  middle  was  a  fine 
fountain  adorned  with  Statuary  and  Sculpture,  but  they  say 
our  Soldiers  after  the  battle  of  Culloden  destroyed  it  to  get  the 
lead  ;  and  when  they  left  it,  burnt  the  palace  as  by  accident ; 
it  is  situated  in  an  Island  on  a  Lough,  a  mile  long,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  broad.  There  are  perch,  jack  and  Eels  in 
this  water.  This  seems  to  have  been  a  place  for  the  Kings  to 
retire  to  as  a  Villa  to  Edinburgh. 

We  came  on  5  miles  to  Hopetown 2  house  about  a  mile  to  the 
north  of  the  road.  It  is  a  very  fine  situation,  a  promontory 
which  stretches  to  the  north  into  the  Frith,  so  that  the  sea  or 
river  is  to  the  west  of  it,  and  is  seen  in  front  to  the  east,  which 
is  the  way  the  house  stands :  It  is  a  very  grand  house  of  21 
windows,  a  Colonade  of  a  quarter  of  a  Circle  of  12  flat  arches 
of  the  Doric  order  joyn  it  to  the  fine  Stables  on  one  side,  and 
to  the  library  on  the  other.  To  the  Stable  and  library  is  a 
tower  built  with  a  Cupola :  The  library  is  about  100  feet  long. 
You  see  through  the  rooms  of  the  house  to  a  window  at  each 
end  about  300  feet.  The  house  in  front  is  adorned  with 
Corinthian  pilasters  all  the  way  up :  There  is  an  attick  story 
above  the  Entablature,  and  a  banister  all  round  at  top  divided 
by  pedestals  over  the  solid  parts  on  which  there  are  vases.  To 
the  offices  between  the  windows  are  Couplets  of  Doric  pilasters 
all  executed  with  fine  freestone.  The  house  was  originally 
designed  by  Sr  .  .  .  Bruce  but  many  alterations  since  made. 
The  approach  to  it  is  grand;  and  Lord  Hopton  has  lately 
enlarged  the  hall  and  finished  a  grand  apartment  with  plain 
wainscoating  and  plain  paper,  the  pictures  are  all  in  white 
frames  and  scrued  on  to  the  wainscot,  and  it  is  to  be  hung  with 

1  For  plans  and  views,  see  MacGibbon  and  Ross's  Castel.  Arch,  of  Scot.,  1887, 
vol.  i.  pp.  478-497. 

2  See  p.  3  for  Bishop  Pococke's  visit  in  1747. 


298  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

crimson  damask ;  there  are  several  good  pictures  :  Behind  the 
house  is  a  large  lawn  adorned  with  Statues  ;  a  walk  through  the 
middle  of  the  plantations  and  all  round  them  and  some  across, 
but  it  is  all  in  the  Wilderness  still  with  clipped  hedges  of 
holly  and  yew  round  the  quarters  ;  to  the  south  is  a  bowling 
green  and  an  open  summer  house ;  beyond  the  plantations  is 
the  mount  which  was  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  Abercorn :  The 
ground  about  it  is  a  grove  of  Elm  trees ;  and  here  the  garden 
terminates  with  a  Deer  park  adjoining ;  beyond  this  is  the  Sea, 
and  also  to  the  north ;  and  from  this  spot  the  Bass  Island  is 
seen  and  the  mountains  about  Lough  Loughman,  altogether  not 
much  less  than  100  measured  miles  :  The  sheep  keep  down  the 
great  quantity  of  grass  that  must  otherwise  be  mowed,  and  the 
manure  is  swept  up  by  those  who  attend  them,  and  notwith- 
standing this  nine  men  are  constantly  employed  in  the  garden. 

About  a  mile  to  the  west  is  Blackness  Castle,  and  a  little 
west  of  that  is  Caeridden  l  where  Antoninus's  Wall  is  supposed 
to  have  ended.  To  this  Castle  there  is  a  governor  and  a 
Serjeant's  Command,  and  opposite,  on  the  South  side,  is 
Rosaith  2  Castle  an  Estate  belonging  to  Lord  Hopton. 

I  went  on  to  Queensferry  a  small  town,  chiefly  supported  by 
the  passage  into  Fife :  Here  was  a  Monastery  of  Carmelites 
founded  by  the  Laird  of  Dundas  in  1290.  The  Church  in 
shape  of  a  Cross  seems  to  have  been  built  to  an  old  Castle  in 
the  middle  which  is  as  broad  as  the  Church :  Opposite  to 
Queensferry  is  the  island  of  Garvey  3  on  which  there  is  an  old 
Castle  :  Opposite  to  Aberdour,  to  the  East  is  Inchcolm 4  an 
island  in  which  there  was  an  Abbey  of  Canons  Regular  of  St. 
Austin,  the  ruins  of  which  I  saw  in  1747.  It  was  founded  by 
King  Alexander  in  1123  and  dedicated  to  St.  Columba  Abbot 
of  Hye.  Abbott  Walter  Bowmaker  continued  Fordon's  Scoti 
Chronicon  in  the  15th  Century.  Henry  ,2d  son  of  James 
Stuart  Lord  of  Ochiltree  was  made  a  Peer  by  the  Title  of  Lord 
Inch  Colme  in  1611,  his  father  having  been  made  Commendator 
of  the  Abbey.  I  took  in  the  way  to  Edinburgh  Mr.  Hope^s 

1  Carriden.     See  Caledona  Romana>  pp.  263,  361. 

2  Rosyth  Castle  in  ruins. 

3  Its  past  history  will  be  overshadowed  in  its  present  use,  that  of  giving  a 
central  support  to  the  greatest  engineering  work  of  modern  times — the  Forth 
Bridge.  4  See  p.  2. 


HOPETOUN,  QUEENSFERRY,  CRAMOND.      299 

5  miles  from  the  town,  brother  to  Lord  Hopeton ;  it  is  a  very 
handsome  house,  and  a  fine  improvement  of  fields  and  planta- 
tions about  it  on  the  river  Almond. 

I  crossed  the  Almond  on  a  bridge  ;  at  the  mouth  of  this 
river  is  Cramond,  a  Roman  Station  the  old  Alaterva,1  where 
the  Cohors  prima  Tungrorum  was  garrisoned  and  where  they 
built  an  Altar  to  the  Matres  Alatervae,  as  may  be  seen  in  a 
curious  inscription  found  here  which  is  in  Horsley  the  29th 
under  Scotland ;  and  on  the  side  of  the  river  an  eagle  is  cut  on 
the  rock. 

Near  the  bridge  I  have  been  informed  is  a  water  fall  of  five 
and  twenty  feet,  which  is  called  a  Lin  ;  3  m.  S.W.  of  Cramond 
and  4J  west  from  Edinburgh  near  the  road  to  Lithgow  in  a 
field  to  the  north  of  it  near  Lennerbridge  and  a  farm  house 
called  Catstean,2  is  a  stone  of  that  name  4  ft.  6  in.  high  5  broad 
and  three  feet  thick  with  this  inscription  on  it,  In  hoc  tumulo 
Jacet  Veta.  F.  Vecti,  a  battle  is  supposed  to  have  been  fought 
here  in  which  Vota  the  son  of  Vectus  was  killed.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  Pentland  hills,  the  Roman  Roads  from  Teviotdale 
and  Tweedale  unite  and  come  to  Cramond. 

I  came  by  Barnton  Ld.  Marchmounts  at  present  inhabited 
by  Lady  Cassils  and  on  the  9th  arrived  at  Edinburgh  leaving 
Crostorphin  3  to  the  South  where  there  was  a  Collegiate  Church 
founded  by  Sr.  Jn°  Forrester  ancestor  to  Lord  Forrester  in 
1429.— I  am,  &c. 

LETTER  LXI. 

EDINBURGH,  Sepr.  \$th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Edinburgh  is  most  pleasantly  situated,  and 
consists  chiefly  of  two  streets,  one  up  the  ridge  of  a  hill  about 
a  measured  mile,  long  finely  built  and  paved,  many  of  the 
houses  being  of  hewn  stone,  and  all  with  stone  window  Coins, 
and  six  or  seven  stories  high  to  the  Street,  and  some  of  them 
more  backward,  even  to  14  stories.  It  terminates  at  one  end 

1  See  Gordon's  I  tin.  Sep.,  pp.  116,  117. 

2  Catstone,  'In  this  tumulus  lies  Vetta,  son  of  Victus.'    Figured  in  Anderson's 
Early  Christian  Times  in  Scot. ,  p.  248. 

3  Corstorphine. 


300  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

with  the  Esplanade  before  the  Castle  on  the  highest  ground, 
which  is  a  fine  walk,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Frith  and 
Leith  and  of  the  Country  to  the  South.  The  other  street,  the 
Cowgate,  is  about  half  as  long ;  at  the  end  of  which  about  the 
middle  of  the  other,  St.  Mary's  Wynd  and  Leith  Wynd  cross 
it  at  right  angles.  And  there  are  several  small  streets  to  the 
south  of  the  Cowgate. 

Charles  the  1st  in  1633  made  Edinburgh  a  Bishop's  See  and 
appointed  for  the  Diocese  all  the  parts  of  the  Arch  Bishoprick 
of  St.  Andrews  to  the  South  of  the  Frith  of  Forth  in  the  Shires 
of  Edinburgh,  Haddington,  Linlithgow,  Sterling,  Berwick  and 
Lauderdale,  and  made  St.  Giles's  Church  the  Cathedral ;  to 
have  precedence  of  all  Suffragans  and  to  be  Suffragan  to  St. 
Andrews :  But  in  1639  Episcopacy  was  abolished  in  Scotland, 
restored  at  the  Restoration,  &  was  again  altered  to  Presbytery 
under  K.  William  on  account  of  the  adherence,  though  a  weak 
one,  of  the  Bishops  to  the  Interest  of  James  the  7th  for  they 
would  not  take  the  Oath  of  Abjuration,  but  in  other  respects 
were  willing  to  submit  to  the  Government :  The  interest  of  the 
Kirk  was  thought  the  stronger  by  the  Court ;  and  it  is  plain 
they  were  not  favoured  by  the  Bishops  in  England,  probably 
under  the  notion  that  they  were  zealous  Jacobites.  The 
Church  of  St.  Gileses  is  divided  into  four  parts l  serving  for  so 
many  parishes.  The  Choir  is  called  the  New  Church,  in  which 
are  the  seats  of  the  King,  the  Magistrates,  and  the  Lords  of 
Session.  In  the  south  isle  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church 
hold  their  annual  Convention,  in  which  is  a  Throne  for  the 
King's  Commissioner.  It  is  a  handsome  modern  Gothic  Church. 
The  Dominican  Convent  stood  where  the  infirmary  and  the 
high  school  are  at  present,  and  was  called  Mamio  Regis  where 
the  King  might  probably  have  had  a  house ;  It  was  founded 
by  Alexander  lid  in  1230,  Cardinal  Bagimont  convened  the 
Clergy  here  to  value  their  livings,  by  which  they  were  taxed  at 
Rome.  The  Observantines  or  Grey  Friars  stood  where  the 
City  burial  place  now  is,  called  the  Grey  Friers.  It  was  founded 
by  the  Citizens  for  a  School  of  Divinity  and  Philosophy,  and 

1  Now  restored  (by  the  removal  of  the  partitions)  into  one  church.  The 
restoration  was  due  to  the  public  spirit  and  munificence  of  the  late  Dr.  William 
Chambers  of  Chambers' 's  Journal  celebrity. 


EDINBURGH.  301 

James  1st  sent  to  Cologn  for  the  monks  in  1446.  This  Church 
being  destroyed  at  the  Reformation  the  City  of  Edinburgli 
built  a  Gothic  parish  Church  on  the  same  spot  in  1612,  and  in 
1721  they  built  to  it  the  new  Church  of  the  Grey  Friars  for 
another  parish  ;  St.  Mary's  Nunnery  stood  near  the  garden  wall 
of  the  Marquis  of  Tweedale's  house ;  from  it  the  street  St. 
Mary's  Wynd  has  its  name.  There  was  an  hospital  called 
Maison  Dieu  in  Bell's  Wynd  in  this  part. 

Holy-Rood  House  or  Domus  Saiwtor  Crucis  was  an  Abbey 
of  Canons  Regular  of  St.  Augustine  founded  by  David  the 
1st  in  1128.  John  Bothwell  son  of  Adalis  Bishop  of 
Orkney  Commendator  of  it,  was  in  1607  made  Lord  of 
Holy  Rood  house.  James  2d  laid  out  ^10,000  on  it.  And 
the  Mob  tore  all  the  inside  to  pieces  at  the  revolution.  The 
roof  of  the  fine  Abbey  Church  was  gone  to  ruin  but  it  is  now 
repaired.1 

In  1584  the  City  of  Edinburgh  was  divided  into  four  parishes. 
St.  Giles's  for  the  South  West,  Magdalen  Chapel  for  the  South 
East,  New  Church  for  the  North  West,  Trinity  Church  for  the 
North  East.  At  different  times  they  added  other  parishes  till 
they  amounted  to  Eleven,  the  present  number.  To  the  north 
east  is  Canongate  Church  built  out  of  a  publick  fund  when 
James  the  2d  converted  the  Abbey  Church  into  a  popish  chapel : 
This  parish  is  on  the  spot  of  the  old  town  of  Herbergate.2 
The  windows  are  singular  consisting  of  three  parts  crowned 
with  a  circle. 

Christ  Church  built  in  1641  is  now  called  the  Trone  Church 
from  the  Trone  or  public  Scales  ;  This  Church  is  in  the  High 
Street,  and  is  a  handsome  Modern  Gothick  building  with  a 
tower  and  a  small  steeple  built  by  the  City  as  'tis  said  on  the 
plan  of  Inigo  Jones. 

St.  Mary's  Chapel  in  this  parish  was  founded  by  Elizat]l 
Countess  of  Ross  in  1504.  The  lower  part  is  now  the  hall  of 

1  The  roof  had  been  repaired  with  such  heavy  flagstones,  that  it  soon  gave 
way,  and  falling  inwards,  completed  the  ruin  of  the  Chapel. 

3  Town  of  '  Herbergare,'  probably  from  the  Saxon  Herberg,  an  inn  or  house 
for  the  entertainment  of  travellers.  Vide  Maitland's  Hist,  of  Edinburgh,  1753, 
p.  148.  '  Burgh  callit  the  burgh  of  Harbargarie,  now  callit  the  Cannogait.' — 
Holyrood  Charters,  Bannatyne  Club,  1840.  The  exact  site,  or  even  the  exist- 
ence of  Herbargarie,  is  a  much  disputed  point. 


302  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

the  Wrights  and  Masons,  and  the  upper  part  is  a  Music  room  ; 
it  has  been  new  fitted  up  with  a  Venetian  Window,  and  is  a 
handsome  building. 

In  this  parish  also  is  a  Chapel  for  service  according  to  the 
Church  of  England  built  by  Ld.  Chief  Baron  Smith  in  1722 
with  one  Chaplain  at  £60  a  year,  and  another  at  £50.  It  was 
built  on  the  ground  he  purchased  for  that  purpose.  At  the 
South  East  Corner  of  black  friars  Wind,  part  of  the  Archi- 
episcopal  palace  of  St.  Andrews  is  now  standing. 

St.  Cuthbert's,  now  called  the  West  Church,  dedicated  to  an 
English  Bishop,  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  English 
when  they  recovered  Lothian  from  the  Picts,  and  gave  it  up  to 
K.  Ingulphus l  in  956,  and  is  said  to  have  contained  the  whole 
town  of  Edinburgh.  The  present  Church  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  any  part  of  the  old  fabric.  This  parish  is  so  large 
that  a  new  Church  is  built  to  the  East  of  the  Walk  called  the 
Meadows,  and  they  give  it  the  name  of  the  New  Church. 
Another  parish  is  Haddows  or  new  North  Church  parish,  they 
meet  in  the  north  west  part  of  St.  Giles's  Church.  Lady 
Tester's  Church  is  a  mean  building  near  the  Infirmary.  The 
high  School  and  Surgeons1  hall  is  also  near  it  which  latter  is  a 
neat  building. 

The  old  Church  is  in  the  middle  of  St.  Giles's :  The  Parlia- 
ment Close  and  down  to  the  Cowgate  was  the  Church  yard  of 
St.  Giles's.  In  a  back  alley  I  saw  a  fine  Saxon  door  case  to  a 
Church,  but  omitted  to  see  it  again,  and  after  I  left  Edinburgh, 
I  was  informed  it  was  the  door  to  St.  Giles's,  on  which  I  can- 
not depend. 

The  Tolbooth  Church  is  the  South  West  part  of  St, 
Giles's. 

Trinity  College  Church2  and  hospital  was  founded  by  Mary 
of  Guelden  Wife  of  James  2d,  it  is  commonly  called  the  College 
Church  and  is  a  Gothick  building.  The  foundress  is  buried 
in  it. 

The  City  of  Edinburgh  bought  of  Lord  Balmerinach  the 

1  Indulfus. 

2  This  church  had  to  be  removed  for  railway  improvements,  but  was  sub- 
sequently rebuilt,  largely  with  the  same  stones,  a  little  to  the  south  of  the 
original  site. 


EDINBURGH.  303 

Superiority  of  the  District  of  the  Western  Lestalrig  called  the 
Caldton ;  And  in  1715  got  it  erected  into  a  Burgh  ef  Barony 
being  situated  to  the  North  East  of  Edinburgh,  it  is  to  be 
looked  on  as  a  suburb  of  Edinburgh,  and  is  governed  by  a 
Bailiff'  with  proper  officers. 

Abbey  Hill  though  in  the  parish  of  South  Leith  is  judged 
to  be  a  suburb  of  Edinburgh. 

Besides  twelve  Churches  there  were  four  Chapels  belonging 
to  Hospitals  or  Charity  Houses,  eleven  meeting  houses  3  of 
the  Established  Church  of  England  and  3  nonjuring,  an  inde- 
pendent, a  Seceders,  Quakers,  French  and  popish,  and  329 
Streets  wynds  or  lanes  and  Squares  or  closes  or  Courts,  and 
other  openings,  and  ten  Market  places ;  and  the  inhabitants 
are  computed  at  50,000.  The  Hospitals  and  Charity  Houses 
in  Edinburgh  are  very  considerable. 

The  Charity  Work  house  was  finished  in  1743  by  Collections; 
There  are  about  600  in  it,  all  kept  to  work  in  their  several 
ways,  are  allowed  2d  out  of  every  shilling  they  earn  ;  and  it  is 
supported  by  Contributions  &  some  taxes.  It  is  a  plain  hand- 
some building  being  a  half  H  :  An  infarmary,  a  place  for 
lunatics,  and  a  weaving  house,  have  been  built  near  it. 

Heriots  Hospital  is  another  founded  by  George  Heriot  son 
of  a  Goldsmith  and  bred  in  that  buissiness,  and  Steward  to 
James  6th  ;  he  left  the  money  to  the  City  of  Edinburgh,  and 
it  was  finished  in  1650.  There  are  100  boys  Clothed  and 
taught  in  it ;  They  wear  brown  Cloaths  and  leathern  caps  t 
&  are  kept  very  neat.  It  is  a  very  magnificent  building 
on  a  hill  to  the  south  of  the  green  market,  is  adorned  with 
a  tower  in  front  crowned  with  a  Cupola,  and  turrets  at  the 
Angles. 

The  infirmary  is  a  fine  building  of  Stone  and  begun  in  1738 
by  Contributions  and  is  an  half  H.  The  front  is  adorned  with 
pillars,  &  stuccoe,  and  the  window  frames  of  the  whole  are  of 
hewn  stone.  There  are  six  wards  in  it,  and  separate  room& 
for  Patients  labouring  under  Fevers  &  other  acute  disorders,, 
particularly  under  infectious  distempers  ;  the  Small  Pox  indeed 
is  rare  among  Adults,  most  people  here  have  it  commonly 
when  they  are  young. 

The  Merchants  and  Mrs.   Erskin   founded   an  hospital   in 


304          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

1695  called  the  Merchants'  Maiden  hospital1  for  50  girls ;  it  is 
in  the  part  of  the  town  called  Bristo,  and  receives  only  the 
Daughters  of  Decayed  Merchants. 

The  tradesmen  and  the  same  Mrs.  Erskin,  founded  in  the 
Horse  Wynd,  the  Tradesmen's  maiden  hospital1  for  decayed 
Tradesmens  daughters. 

Watson's  Hospital,  in  Heriot's  field,  was  founded  with  money 
left  by  him,  for  the  Education  of  Children  and  grand  children 
of  deceased  Merchants :  They  allow  here  ten  pounds  a  year  for 
five  years  to  a  certain  number  to  follow  their  Studies  in  the 
College,  and  £30  when  they  leave  the  University.  Twenty 
pounds  with  apprentices,  and  £50  to  set  up,  being  all  kept 
and  maintained  in  a  very  handsome  manner.  I  took  a  view  of 
Holy-rood  palace.  In  the  front  are  two  round  towers  at  each 
angle  which  were  built  by  James  the  5th.  Out  of  the  window 
between  the  northern  towers  David  Ritzio's  Body  was  thrown 
after  he  had  been  dragged  from  the  Queen  and  murdered : 
Four  sides  of  a  Court  were  built  to  these  in  the  front,  of  only 
one  story  above  the  ground  floor,  which  belongs  to  Duke 
Hamilton :  on  the  other  three  sides  up  one  pair  of  stairs  are 
the  state  appartments  which  are  never  inhabited :  Over  the 
side,  opposite  to  the  entrance,  the  Duke  of  Argyle  has  his 
appartments  to  the  north,  Lord  Broadalbin  to  the  South,  and 
Lord  Summervile  to  the  West : 

Adjoyning  to  it  I  saw  the  Church  of  the  Abbey  with  six 
Gothic  Arches  on  each  side.  In  the  north  wall  of  the  isle  are 
arches  intersecting  each  other,  on  the  opposite  side  Gothic 
arches,  by  way  of  ornament,  and  about  seven  feet  from  the 
ground :  There  was  a  door  to  the  west,  now  built  up,  and 
King  James  VHth  came  from  the  palace  to  a  Gallery  in  the 
body  of  the  Church  :  part  of  which  still  remains.  The  Royal 
Vault  which  I  saw  in  1747  is  now  closed ;  In  it  were  buried 
James  5th  and  his  queen  Magdalene,  his  son  and  a  natural 
daughter,  and  King  Henry  murdered  by  Both  well.  The  Duke 
of  RoxborougK's  Vault  is  shewn,  and  the  bodies  appearing 
like  Mummies  are  in  coffins  without  lids :  In  the  Church  are 

1  These  hospitals  or  boarding-schools,  after  one  or  two  removals  to  more 
eligible  houses,  have  been  recently  reconstituted  under  the  Educational  Endow- 
ments Acts. 


EDINBURGH.  305 

the  Monuments  of  Bishop  Wishart  and  Lord  Sutherland  of 
1713,  and  in  a  Chapel  or  Vestry  is  a  Monument  of  Lord 
Belhaven  of  1639. 

I  went  to  see  the  Physic  Garden  which  was  part  of  the 
Royal  Garden ;  To  the  South  East  was  the  King's  Park  taking 
in  what  is  called  Sailsbury  Craig,  &  the  rock  called  King 
Arthur's  Chair  upon  it:  A  large  lump  of  brown  and  white 
Jasper  has  been  found  in  this  rock  ;  this  part  lets  for  c£*500  a 
year,  is  mortgaged  to  Ld.  Haddington,  and  is  the  Jointure  of 
the  Dowager. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXII. 

Sepr.  iJt/1,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  went  to  see  the  Castle  at  Edinburgh  which 
contains  six  English  acres.  It  is  said  that  the  Kingdom  of 
Northumberland  did  extend  to  the  Frith  of  Forth,  and  as  Simon 
of  Durham  in  the  9th  Century  calls  it  Edwinesburgh  or  Castle, 
and  David  the  1st  in  1128  calls  it  Edwines  burg,  so  he  supposed 
it  was  built  by  K.  Edwin  about  626,  it  is  on  a  rock  of  black 
whinstone,  a  sort  of  granite  composed  of  small  grains :  The 
Esplanade  before  it  is  274  feet  above  the  Sea,  about  90  feet 
above  the  Grass  market,  and  120  above  the  north  Lough.  To 
the  East  is  a  half  Moon  ;  and  there  are  remains  of  three  sides 
of  the  old  palace ;  That  to  the  East  was  built  by  James  6th. 
The  Southern  part  seems  to  be  old.  At  the  south  east  corner 
of  these  buildings,  Queen  Mary  (being  rather  afraid  to  come 
out,  and  being  suspected  also  in  conjunction  with  Both  well  to 
have  had  an  intent  to  destroy  the  Child  she  was  then  big  with, 
which  I  think  does  not  seem  probable)  was  delivered  of  James 
Vlth  in  a  very  small  room,  rather  a  Closet,  with  a  window 
opening  to  the  East,  through  which  they  suspected  that  the 
design  was  to  let  him  down  in  a  basket :  But  if  there  was  any 
such  design,  it  is  most  probable  that  it  was  to  secrete  him,  and 
pretend  an  abortion,  in  order  to  enjoy  a  greater  power,  and  it 
may  be  to  send  him  to  France  and  educate  him  a  papist.  On 

u 


306  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

one  side  is  the  date  1566,  on  the  other  the  day  of  the  Month 
June  19th.     And  on  the  West  side  were  these  verses — 

Lord  Jesu  Chryst,  that  Crounit  was  with  Thornse 
Preserve  the  Birth  quhais  Badgie1  heir  is  borne, 
And  send  Hir  Sonee  Successione  to  reign  still, 
Lang  in  this  Realme,  if  that  it  be  Thy  will. 
Als  Grant  O  Lord  quat  ever  of  Hir  proseed 
Be  to  Thy  Glorie  Honor  and  Prais  sobeid. 

In  the  East  part  near  this  room,  the  regalia  2  are  kept,  which 
are  not  shown  :  The  south  side  of  it,  which  is  the  oldest  part, 
was  the  parliament  house,  and  is  now  the  officers  lodgings  :  A 
Barrack  is  built  on  the  north  side,  where  there  was  a  large 
Church  that  was  turned  into  a  Magazine.  Most  of  the  other 
parts  of  the  Castle  are  new  for  the  use  of  the  Governor  and 
other  officers,  for  Magazines,  and  store  houses  of  all  kinds,  in 
which  they  have  everything  in  great  order.  The  great  Cannon 
was  sent  not  long  ago  to  London  to  be  new  cast :  They  have 
always  a  Company  of  invalides  here,  and  generally  three  or 
four  Companies  of  other  Soldiers.  The  Castle  is  supplyed  with 
water  by  a  well  120  feet  deep  which  must  have  been  made  with 
immense  Expence  as  the  rock  is  very  hard.  There  is  a  fine 
prospect  every  way  from  this  Castle  which  is  a  most  singular 
situation. 

In  the  high  Street  is  a  relief  of  the  Emperor  Severus  and  his 
Empress  Julia  of  exquisite  workmanship,  and  though  only 
busts  show  the  hand  to  be  very  masterly.  And  not  far  distant 
is  an  old  house  with  a  round  tower  in  front  in  which  there  are 
niches  and  broken  Statues.  They  call  it  Kenetlfs  house,  but 
it  is  supposed  to  have  been  Arch  Bishop  Kennedy's  house  of 
St.  Andrew's  &  the  Gothic  work  about  the  niches  somewhat 
resembles  the  Sculpture  on  his  tomb,  the  back  part  of  it  being 
much  in  the  same  taste. 

The  Exchange  newly  built  opposite  to  the  Parliament  Close 
is  a  half  H .  The  front  of  the  Porticos,  the  pilasters,  Cornices, 
Windows  &  door  frames  and  other  ornaments  are  of  hewn 

1  Arms — Armorial  bearings. 

3  The  Scottish  regalia  were,  with  much  formality,  supposed  to  have  been  stored 
in  an  apartment  called  the  Crown  Room  on  the  26th  March  1707,  but  the  suspicion 
was  that  they  had  been  secretly  carried  to  London.  They  were,  however,  dis- 
covered there  on  5th  February  1818,  carefully  secured  in  a  large  oak  chest,  and 
are  now  exhibited  in  the  room. 


EDINBURGH.  307 

stone,  the  rest  of  Ashler  being  all  freestone.  The  Portico  in 
front  is  closed  up  for  shops,  and  that  opposite  to  it  was  made 
for  the  merchants  to  meet  in  wet  weather  ;  for  when  it  is  fair 
they  always  assemble  in  the  street  before  the  Exchange.  The 
City  purchased  the  houses,  and  undertakers  built  the  whole, 
who  let  the  Custom  House  for  ^300  a  year,  and  the  rest  in 
lodgings  and  shops. 

The  Streets  of  Edinburgh  are  finely  paved  like  St.  James's 
Square,  with  a  gutter  on  each  side  near  the  walking  place, 
which  is  cut  in  a  Semicircular  form  in  hewn  stone  about  8 
inches  broad,  through  which  the  water  runs  that  overflows  the 
reservoir  towards  the  Castle,  which  is  supply ed  by  water  brought 
from  the  Pentland  hills  by  pipes  ;  and  is  kept  full  for  use  in 
case  of  fire.  There  are  flag  stones  for  foot  people  on  each  side 
of  the  street,  with  stones  set  up  to  keep  off  the  carriages  which 
is  a  late  improvement. 

The  first  hill  I  mentioned  to  the  north  is  to  be  divided  into 
three  streets  from  East  to  West,  and  the  houses  to  be  only 
three  stories  high,  which  will  make  it  a  most  noble  City.  The 
Parliament  House  takes  in  the  west  side  of  Parliament  Close  ; 
At  the  end  of  it  the  Ordinary  Judge  of  the  Court  of  Sessions 
sits  on  the  south  side  of  the  treasury  ;  and  in  a  room  near 
sit  the  President  and  Lords  of  Session,  to  whom  there  is  an 
appeal  from  the  Ordinary  Judge :  Upstairs,  the  Court  of  Ex- 
chequer sits  on  business  relating  to  the  Revenue  :  There  is  a 
fine  Marble  Statue  of  President  Forbes  in  an  attitude  of  sitting 
and  speaking,  with  an  elegant  latin  inscription,  erected  by  the 
Advocates  ;  It  is  the  work  of  Roubillac. 

We  went  down  under  the  Treasury,  to  the  Advocates  Library 
which  is  a  choice  collection  of  books  in  all  kinds,  but  more 
especially  in  the  Civil  Canon,  and  all  other  branches  of  the  Law. 
They  have  a  Folio  Bible  in  large  paper  with  all  the  Scriptural 
prints  bound  up  with  it  that  could  be  collected  by  a  gentleman 
in  England.  They  have  several  valuable  MSS.  as  Martial 
800  years  old,  Juvenal  600,  Persius  and  Statius  near  that  age. 

The  Vulgate  Bible  in  two  small  octavo  Volumns  in  two 
Columns ;  And  several  curious  books  of  the  first  printing. 
They  have  also  a  large  Collection  of  Medals,  several  curious 
Greek  Medals,  though  no  series,  A  pretty  good  Collection  of 
the  Silver  Roman,  and  of  large  and  middle  brass  mixed,  Several 


308  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

modern  medals  and  some  Coin  of  different  Countries  :  The 
Keeper  of  it  is  Mr.  Goodall,1  who  has  writ  much  in  defence  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots  and  affirms  that  some  letters  referred  to 
in  Robertson's  history  of  Scotland  are  spurious  but  this 
remains  to  be  proved. 

Edinburgh  is  governed  by  a  Lord  Provost  and  Corporation  ; 
he  may  continue  two  years,  and  when  any  person  is  found  of 
superior  merit  in  that  high  office,  they  put  in  another  the  third 
year,  and  bring  him  in  again  the  year  after. 

A  gentleman  here  who  is  a  Chymist,  has  found  out  a  Method 
to  make  Sal  Ammoniac :  It  is  more  white  and  Transparent  than 
the  Egyptian,  and  it  is  thought  that  Soot  goes  into  the  Com- 
position, There  being  an  Alcaline  Salt  in  the  Coal. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXIII. 

ARNISTOWN,  Sepr.  i%th,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  made  some  excursions  round  Edinburgh. 
From  the  Castle  one  sees  two  Eminences  extending  from  East 
to  West :  The  North  Lough  is  to  the  south  of  them,  and  they 
are  divided  by  the  river  Leith,  upon  this  Lough  there  is  a  Sul- 
phurous water  lately  found,  to  which  the  people  are  resorting 
all  the  day,  it  consists  of  Sulphur  and  an  alcaline  Salt,  and  is 
good  in  Scorbutic  disorders.  I  rid  to  it,  and  then  across  the 
other  hill  to  Newhaven.  A  street  along  the  top  of  each  of 
these  hills  with  hanging  gardens  on  each  side,  and  a  street 
at  the  east  end  of  them  extending  to  the  West  end  of  Leith 
would  make  it  a  most  glorious  City.  They  purpose,  as  before 
mentioned,  to  build  three  streets  along  the  Southern  hills. 

New  haven  is  now  only  a  poor  fishing  village ;  The  Edin- 
Burghers  having  bought  the  place,  not  chusing  that  trade 
should  take  a  turn  that  way ;  Though  James  4th  made  a  har- 
bour and  Dock  at  this  place ;  From  it  we  saw  Royston  now 
called  Caroline  Park  the  seat  of  Lady  Dalkeith  &  Barnbugal 
Lord  Roseberry's. 

We  came  half  a  mile  to  Leith  harbour,  passing  first  by  the 

1  Walter  Goodall,  author  of  Examination  of  Letters  said  to  have  been  -written 
by  Mary  Qtieen  of  Scots  to  Earl  of  Botlwaell,  1754,  2  vols. 


LEITH.  309 

Cittadel,  which  consists  of  two  Bastions  to  the  land ;  It  was, 
when  in  repair,  a  Pentagon  :  It  now  belongs  to  the  City  of 
Edinburgh,  and  the  Sea  is  gaining  on  it ;  it  was  formerly  a 
burial  place  and  there  is  a  stone  gateway  to  it.  The  Harbour 
is  formed  by  stone  and  wooden  piers,  &  small  vessels  come  up 
to  the  bridge ;  it  is  said  it  will  hold  100  vessels,  being  the  har- 
bour of  Edinburgh.  The  Leith  is  crossed  on  a  stone  bridge 
from  which  one  enters  from  North  Leith  to  South  Leith.  The 
only  Convent  of  the  Canons  of  the  order  of  St.  Anthony  in  all 
Scotland  was  at  Leith :  it  is  said  to  be  called  the  South  Kirk, 
and  to  be  situated  at  the  south  west  corner  of  St.  Anthony's 
Wind,  near  the  Kirkgate,  but  I  did  not  see  any  remains  of  it. 
On  their  Seal  was  this  legend,  Siffillum  commune  capituli 
Sancti  Anthonii  prope  Leith:1  Their  houses  were  called  hospitals, 
and  their  governors  Preceptores,  which  I  suppose  is  the  reason 
why  this  Monastery  has  by  mistake  been  called,  A  Preceptory 
and  Hospital  of  the  Knights  Templars  of  St.  Anthony.  The 
Canons  were  brought  from  St.  Anthony  of  Vienne  in  France. 

A  Chapel  was  built  in  Leith  about  the  15th  Century  which 
was  then  in  the  parish  of  Lestalrig :  It  is  a  plain  Gothic  build- 
ing :  And  near  it  is  King  James  Gth's  Hospital  with  his  Arm& 
over  the  door.  They  build  ships  at  the  harbour  and  there  is  a 
great  rope  yard  at  the  east  end  of  the  town :  As  the  people  of 
this  trade  cannot  work  in  wet  weather,  so  they  must  keep  an 
exact  account  of  the  weather,  and  'tis  said  at  Glasgow  they 
work  40  days  less  in  a  year  than  here,  and  at  Greenock  56,. 
which  is  but  16  miles  west  of  Glasgow. 

Leith  was  fortified  by  the  French  in  the  16th  Century,  and 
the  Engsh  being  called  to  the  relief  of  the  Scotch,  anno  1560, 
it  was  agreed  that  the  French  should  evacuate  Leith,  after 
having  been  in  possession  of  the  fortress  from  the  time  they 
built  it  in  1596.  Leith  belongs  to  Edinburgh  and  one  of  its 
Magistrates  is  Baron  Bailiff  and  Judge  Admiral  of  the  town, 
whose  Deputy  resides  here  constantly  :  North  Leith  was  in  the 
parish  of  holy  Rood  house,  and  the  Abbot  built  a  Chapel  here, 
which  by  Act  of  Parliament  is  made  a  parish  Church,  and 
North  Leith  a  distinct  parish  by  itself.  It  is  computed  that 
there  are  7,000  souls  in  Leith. 

1  See  Roger's  Hist.  Notices  of  St.  Anthony's  Monastery,  Leith,  1877,  p.  13. 


310  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

From  this  place  I  went  a  small  mile  to  Lestalrig  or  Restalrig 
a  very  small  village.  Here  was  a  Collegiate  Church  begun  to 
be  founded  by  James  3d  and  was  finished  by  James  5th.  The 
Gothic  Church  is  in  ruins,  and  there  are  large  buildings  near  it, 
probably  the  Lodgings  of  the  Members  of  the  Church.  It  was 
the  Parish  Church  of  South  Leith  till  it  was  removed  by  Act 
of  Parliament  to  Leith. 

I  saw  a  little  way  up  the  hill  the  ruined  Chapel l  in  the  park  ; 
and  going  South  about  a  mile  I  came  to  West  Dudiston,2  to  the 
South  of  the  Park  hill,  with  a  fine  lake  to  the  west  of  it,  about 
half  a  mile  long,  and  a  quarter  broad  ;  it  rises  from  the  springs 
issuing  out  of  the  hill  called  Arthur's  Seat  in  the  Park :  Here 
is  a  very  old  Church  with  Modillions  on  the  Entablature 
adorned  with  Grotesque  heads  in  the  Saxon  style. 

I  passed  to  the  East  of  the  Lake  and  went  a  mile  to  Craig 
Miller,  a  Castle  finely  situated  on  a  rock ;  There  are  several 
additions  to  the  old  Castle  ;  it  belongs  to  the  Prestons  and 
under  their  arms  is  a  Rebus,  a  press  and  a  ton  :  From  the  Quarry 
here  the  town  is  supplied  with  rough  stones,  and  between  the 
beds  is  a  stratum  of  a  sort  of  Red  Marie  about  a  foot  thick. 
A  little  to  the  south  of  this  place,  is  Drum,  Lord  Somervilles 
Seat  finely  situated  and  planted.  It  is  in  the  forrest  where  the 
King  used  to  hunt,  called  Drumselch.3 

I  passed  near  Sheens,4  where  there  was  the  only  Dominican 
Nunnery  in  Scotland,  as  reformed  by  St.  Catherine  of  Sienna, 
from  which  it  has  its  name ;  it  was  founded  by  Lady  Roslin 
Countess  of  Cathness.  I  came  to  Edinburgh  in  the  road  which 
is  to  the  west  of  Salisbury  Craig,  in  the  King's  Park. — 
I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXIV. 

HADDINGTON,  Sepr.  igtn,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  16th  of  Sepr.  I  left  Edinburgh,  went 
eastward  to  the  Strand,  and  beyond  the  saltwork  towards 
Musselborough  &  turned  up  to  the  right,  to  Sr.  David  Dal- 

1  See  Roger's  Si.  Anthony's  Ckapel,  1877,  p.  16. 
Duddingston.  3  Drumsheugh.  4  Sciennes. 


MUSSELBURGH,  PRESTONPANS.  311 

rympleV  where  I  dined  by  invitation.  It  is  an  exceeding  good 
house,  highly  finished,  and  most  elegantly  furnished.  The 
library  is  an  excellent  room  40  feet  long.  There  is  a  most 
noble  Collection  of  Books,  and  many  fine  editions,  and  some 
of  the  first  printed  Classicks.  The  lawn  and  plantations 
behind  the  house  are  fine.  Here  I  saw  chairs  made  of  the 
wood  of  the  Laburnum  tree,  which  is  much  like  the  Virginia 
Wallnut,  a  deep  brown.  Sir  James,  Father  to  Sir  David 
made  a  great  Collection  of  Scotch  pebbles  on  this  Shoar,  and 
some  towards  Dundee ;  employing  the  children  in  the  hard 
winter  to  pick  them  up :  and  Sir  David  was  so  kind  as  to  make 
me  a  present  of  several  of  them.  I  came  through  Mussel- 
borough  where  they  have  a  harbour  made  by  piers,  and  a 
linnen  manufacture  :  There  is  a  good  bridge  here  over  the 
Esk ;  on  the  other  side  of  it  is  Inveresk :  Here  is  a  curious 
subterraneus  passage  under  a  hill  to  convey  water  to  a  Mill  to 
the  north.  It  was  the  work  of  the  late  Mr.  Adams,  the  Archi- 
tect, he  brought  the  water  from  the  Esk,  and  proposed  to 
carry  it  on  a  level  under  the  hill,  but  coming  to  sand,  in  order 
to  avoid  that,  he  sank  down  fifty  feet,  and  carried  the  canal 
through  the  rock  800  feet ;  it  is  four  feet  wide  and  six  high, 
and  then  sunk  a  shaft  or  well  by  which  the  water  rises  and  runs 
in  a  canal  northward  towards  the  Mill ;  it  is  100  feet  below 
the  top  of  the  hill,  and  they  were  a  year  and  a  half  about  it. 

A  little  to  the  north  of  the  mill  is  Pinkie,  a  large  house 
belonging  to  the  Marquis  of  Tweedale  now  let  to  a  private 
person.  Here  the  Scotch  beat  the  English  on  the  10th  of  Sep- 
tember 1547  ;  and  twenty  years  afterwards,  Q.  Mary  encamped 
here,  advised  Bothwell  to  provide  for  his  own  security,  dis- 
banded her  troops,  and  became  a  prisoner  to  her  subjects. 

A  little  beyond  it  is  Preston,2  the  field  of  the  infamous  battle 
between  the  K.  Forces  and  the  Rebels  in  1745.  They  had 
laid  on  their  Arms  all  night,  and  General  Cope  who  com- 
manded the  K.  Forces  was  in  his  coach,  and  yet  they  were 
surprised,  &  the  enemy  came  suddenly  upon  them  at  break 
of  day,  &  took  some  of  their  picket  guards :  The  horse  first 

1  New  Hailes. 

2  Prestonpans,  September  21,  1745.     The  doughty  General  is  immortalised  in 
the  favourite  Scottish  ballad  'Johnnie  Cope.' 


312  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

gave  way,  and  a  panic  seems  to  have  seized  our  army ;  Many 
of  the  horse  did  not  stop,  till  they  got  to  Berwick,  and  brought 
the  first  news  of  their  own  defeat. 

We  came  three  miles  to  Dalkeith  great  part  of  the  way  by 
the  Park  wall :  This  small  town  is  pleasantly  situated  over  the 
fine  hanging  ground  on  North  Esk.  They  have  some  linnen 
Manufactury  here,  and  they  are  about  to  settle  some  trade  in 
the  Iron  ware.  The  Duke  of  Buccleugh  has  a  house  at  this 
end  of  the  Park,  and  another  at  the  other  end  a  mile  off,  which 
latter  was  a  purchase  ;  The  late  Duke  used  to  sleep  there,  as 
the  wholesomer  air,  and  receive  his  Company  here.  The 
house  is  a  half  H  with  a  pavillion  built  at  each  end  in  front, 
and  is  situated  just  over  a  beautifull  glyn  ;  the  sides  of  which 
are  covered  with  wood,  and  the  water  is  kept  up  so  as  to  appear 
like  a  considerable  river  and  form  a  cascade.  The  house  is 
all  wainscoated  with  Dantzick  Oak,  and  is  adorned  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  Marble  in  Chimney  pieces,  tables,  sideboards,  and 
Seats.  There  are  several  good  family  pieces  ;  and  a  fine  one 
of  the  Duke  of  Monmouth,  when  14  years  of  age,  as  a  John 
Baptist,  with  very  little  drapery  on  it ;  I  believe  it  is  of  Sir 
Peter  Lelly  :  There  is  also  some  of  Gibbons'^  carving  in  wood : 
The  furniture  and  particularly  the  Tapestry  hangings  are  very 
rich.  The  other  house  is  furnished  as  richly  as  this,  and  is  a 
very  pleasant  place.  The  parish  Church  was  Collegiate,  founded 
in  the  time  of  James  the  5th  by  James  Douglas  Earl  of 
Moreton,  the  west  part  is  in  repair ;  The  east  part  is  fine  & 
in  ruins  ending  in  three  sides  in  the  modern  Gothic  taste,  and 
seems  to  have  been  built  when  it  was  made  Collegiate. — I 
am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXV. 

DUNBAR,  Sept.  zoth,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  17th  I  set  forward  and  crossed  from 
North  Esk  to  South  Esk  and  came  to  Newbattle,  where  the 
Marquis  of  Lothian  has  a  house  on  the  site  of  the  Abbey  filled 
with  Pictures,  of  which  nothing  but  some  arches  remain  under 
the  house.  They  were  Cistercians,  and  founded  by  David  1st 


DALKEITH,  NEWBATTLE,  ARNISTON.       313 

in  1140.  Their  Charters  were  writ  into  a  Chartulary  which  is 
in  the  Advocates  Library.  It  was  erected  into  a  Lordship  in 
1591  in  favor  of  Mark  Ker  son  of  Sir  Walter  Ker  of  Cessford 
Ancestor  to  the  Marquis  of  Lothian  ;  it  is  a  fine  enclosed  well 
improved  Country. 

I  came  to  the  Castle  of  .  .  . l  where  we  crossed  the  Esk 
over  a  bridge,  and  travelling  southward  passed  by  Coal  Mines 
and  crossing  a  rivulet  which  falls  into  the  Esk,  came  in  a  mile 
to  Armiston  the  seat  of  the  Lord  President  Dundass,  whose 
Father  succeeded  President  Forbes,  who  was  succeeded  by  this 
Gentleman's  immediate  Predecessor  President  Craigie.  His 
father  built  here  a  fine  house,  the  ornamental  parts  of  hewn 
freestone,  and  a  pediment  in  the  middle,  supported  by  four 
Ionic  pillars.  The  offices  are  very  large,  &  convenient  and 
joyned  to  the  house  by  a  closed  Colonade.  The  park  fields  &c. 
are  between  that  rivulet  I  passed,  and  South  Esk,  which  form 
beautiful]  glyns  on  each  side  covered  with  wood  ;  Before  the 
house  is  a  fine  lawn  adorned  with  single  trees  and  Clumps ; 
behind  it  is  the  farm — it  consists  of  eleven  hundred  Scotch 
Acres,  and  there  are  ridings  round  the  whole,  which  wind  in 
such  a  manner  round  the  glyns  as  to  make  the  circuit  thirteen 
miles :  Near  the  house  are  beautifull  winding  walks  round  some 
uneven  grounds  over  glyns  beautified  by  the  prospect  of  Chinese 
and  other  bridges  that  make  it  a  most  delightfull  place.  The 
park  also  glories  in  many  large  timber  trees.  There  is  an  ash 
tree  near  the  house  which  is  about  25  feet  in  circumference,  the 
branches  shooting  out  a  very  little  way  above  the  ground : 
There  is  an  old  ruin  in  the  circuit,  called  the  Temple  and  a 
small  Gothic  Church  a  little  below  it.  These  were  Templars 
founded  by  King  David,  in  whose  time  they  first  came  into 
Scotland.  At  the  north  end  of  this  Demesne  we  saw  the  old 
house  of  Shank  where  Sr.  George  Mackenzie  lived  who  writ  the 
Institutes  of  the  Laws  of  Scotland.  And  from  one  part  we  saw 
the  famous  Castle  of  Brothwick  to  the  East.  Armiston  house 
is  very  well  finished  and  furnished,  and  there  is  a  large  room 
up  two  pair  of  Stairs  for  a  Library,  taking  up  one  half  of  the 
house ;  In  it  are  some  rare  books  of  the  first  printing ;  and 
here  I  saw  an  Original  of  the  Solemn  League  and  Covenant 

1  Dalhousie. 


314  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

which  was  signed  by  the  Nobility  and  Gentry.  When  I  was 
in  Scotland  in  1747  I  went  to  see  several  places  on  North  Esk. 

At  about  three  miles  south  of  Dalketh  is  Hawthorn  den  or 
glyn  with  a  Castle  built  close  to  it,  where  Drummond  the  poet 
lived  in  K.  James  6th  time.  The  Grottoes  are  cut  in  a  per- 
pendicular rock  several  rooms  one  within  another,  and  no  other 
passage  to  them,  but  by  boards  laid  from  a  shelf  of  the  rock  to 
the  entrance  of  the  cave  ;  Here  they  searched  for  the  young 
Pretender  in  1746.  Near  it  is  the  fine  and  entire  Gothic 
Chapel  of  Roslyn,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  which  is  very 
beautifull  ;  it  was  a  Collegiate  Church  founded  in  1446  by 
Willm  Earl  of  Orkney  and  Cathness  for  a  Provost  six  Preben- 
daries and  two  singing  boys.  Over  the  door  in  Gothic  charac- 
ters is  this  inscription,  Forte  est  vinum,  Fortior  est  Rex, 
Fortiores  sunt  Mulieres,  super  omnia  vincet  Veritas.  Near  this 
place  three  battles  were  fought  in  one  day,  with  three  columns 
of  the  army  of  Edw^  the  1st  under  John  de  Segrave  K.  Edward's 
Regent  of  Scotland,  but  the  Engsh  historians  say  under  Ralph 
Confray  ;  in  which  they  were  all  entirely  and  separately 
defeated  on  the  24th  of  Feby.  1302  under  the  command  of 
Cumin  and  Frazier. 

Near  this  place  I  dined  with  the  late  Baron  Clark  a  great 
antiquarian,  at  his  seat  of  Pennyline  l  situated  in  a  bottom  on 
this  river,  a  sweet  spot,  and  here  he  had  many  valuable  anti- 
quities, among  them  a  statue  of  the  Goddess  Brigantias,  a  deity 
of  the  Brigantes,  supposed  to  be  the  Picts.  It  is  four  feet  high 
in  a  kind  of  Toga  with  a  Mural  Crown,  a  head  in  relief  on  the 
breast,  with  a  spear  in  the  right  hand  and  a  globe  in  the  left  ; 
it  has  this  inscription  2 


IMP.  /• 

Two  miles  to  the  west  on  Pentland  hills,  at  Rullion  Green, 

1  Penicuik. 

2  See  Dissertio  de  Monwnentis  quidusdam  Romanis,  by  Baron  Clerk,  1731, 
p.  7- 


ROSLIN,  ST.  CATHERINE'S,  CRICHTON.      315 

Dalzel  on  the  24  of  Novr.  1663  routed  the  Covenanters  who, 
as  Burnet  says,  were  a  harmless  people,  become  mad  by  oppres- 
sion. A  mile  east  of  Pentland  hills  I  was  at  St.  Catherines  or 
the  Kaimes,  where  is  what  they  call  The  oily  well?  it  is  mixt 
with  an  Unctuous  Bituminous  Substance,  which  forms  a  Coat 
on  the  top  of  the  water,  and  is  in  taste  and  smell  exactly  like 
the  Bitumen  of  the  Dead  Sea.  They  say  it  is  good  for 
Scorbutic  disorders. 

To  the  north  of  St.  Catherines  before  mentioned,  is  an  old 
Camp,2  of  which  Oliver  Cromwell  took  possession  just  before 
the  battle  of  Dunbar. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXVI. 

DUNGLAS  IN  EAST  LOTHIAN,  Sepr.  21,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  18th  I  left  Armiston,  crossed  the  high 
road  that  leads  from  Edinburgh  the  furthest  way  to  London, 
called  the  Eastern  road,  and  passed  over  a  rivulet  called  Gore, 
to  the  east  of  which  the  Country  consists  of  a  limestone  :  For 
we  soon  came  to  Loughend  limestone  quarry,  in  which  the 
slates  rise  thin,  but  are  full  of  small  shells  and  some  asterise 
and  astroitae ;  and  soon  after  came  to  a  Hamlet  of  that  name. 
We  saw  at  some  distance  to  the  south,  a  fine  plantation  and 
good  house  belonging  to  Mr  Nicholson. 

We  came  to  the  rise  of  the  Tine  which  falls  into  the  sea 
near  Dunbar :  And  crossing  it  passed  by  Creichton  Castle  a 
large  building,  and  near  it  a  small  Chapel  built  with  very  plain 
buttresses,  which  I  suppose  was  the  Collegiate  Church  founded 
in  1449  by  Sir  William  Crichton  Chancellor  of  Scotland  for  a 
Provost  nine  Prebendaries  and  two  singing  boys. 

A  little  further  we  went  near  the  Parish  Church  of  West 
Crichton,  built  to  a  tower  like  a  Castle  as  broad  as  the  Church  ; 
The  Western  building  has  been  taken  away,  we  came  to  a 
Village  of  Crichton  which  I  suppose  is  East  Crichton,  at  the 
west  end  of  which  is  a  small  hill,  and  the  top  of  it  has  been 

1  The  Balm  Well. 

2  Galachlavv,  where  Cromwell  encamped  in  1650  with  16,000  men. 


316  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

fortified  :  We  saw  to  the  north  Cranston  the  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Gordon,  where  his  Grandmother  lives,  about  a  mile  to  the 
west  of  Saltoun  : 

We  came  to  a  small  Camp  which  has  been  much  destroyed, 
but  seemed  to  have  had  four  fossees  round  it ;  it  is  partly  of  an 
oblong  square  figure  with  the  angles  taken  off,  about  100  yards 
long  from  east  to  west  and  eighty  wide :  we  then  passed  by  a 
quarry  in  which  I  observed  some  small  Coral  in  the  limestone ; 
and  came  to  Salton  on  a  rivlet  which  falls  into  the  Tyne, 
and  near  it  is  Milton,  the  seat  of  a  Fletcher  Lord  Milton  one 
of  the  Lords  of  Session :  on  the  other  side  I  saw  a  wall  of 
blew  limestone,  in  which  there  are  the  Conchae  anomiae. 

In  about  two  miles  came  to  the  Village  of  Gifford,  and  then 
half  a  mile  by  the  avenue  to  Yester  the  Marquis  of  Tweedale's 
pleasantly  situated  between  rising  grounds  on  the  rivlet  called 
Yester,  which  passes  before  the  house  under  an  arch,  and  is 
not  seen  there.  The  house  is  the  architecture  of  old  Adams, 
it  is  all  hewnstone,  and  a  pediment  in  front  supported  by  four 
Corinthian  palasters  ;  There  is  a  pavilion  built  on  each  side ; 
and  the  offices  are  large  and  handsome.  The  rooms  of  the 
house  are  spacious  and  lofty,  especially  the  hall  and  grand 
room  looking  to  the  park  ;  and  a  room  above  which  is  thirty 
feet  high,  40  long  and  28  wide,  and  is  to  be  stuccoed  and 
finished  in  a  grand  manner.  The  rest  are  well  finished,  and 
there  are  several  good  pictures  of  Sir  Peter  Lely^s  painting, 
and  a  fine  one  of  Henderson1  by  Vandike.  There  is  also  some 
good  Tapestry  :  The  lawn  behind  the  house  is  fine,  with  large 
trees  interspersed,  where  the  sheep  feed,  and  there  is  a  terrace 
round  it ;  on  one  side  is  a  hermitage  and  on  another  a  summer 
house  in  a  little  island ;  beyond  this  is  the  park,  and  then  the 
farm,  in  which  the  fields  are  very  beautifull :  The  whole  within 
the  wall  is  Eleven  hundred  Scotch  acres. 

A  little  beyond  to  the  south  east  are  the  ruins  of  the  old 
Castle2  of  Yester,  on  a  sort  of  a  high  head  of  land  formed  by 
two  rivulets,  and  well  defended  by  a  fossee  at  the  entrance,  it 

1  May  this  not   be  the  portrait   of  the    '  Unknown   Gentleman '  in   Yester 
House,  by  Jamesone,  painted  in  1644,  and  described  as  one  of  his  finest  ?     See 
George  Jatnesone,  the  Scottish  Vandyck,  by  John  Bulloch,  1885,  p.  182. 

2  Famed  for  its  '  Hobgoblin  Hall.' 


TESTER,  HADDINGTON.  317 

seems  to  have  consisted  of  two  grand  buildings  of  strong  fine 
masonry ;  In  the  back  of  the  great  Chimney  is  a  window  ; 
Under  the  other  part  is  a  fine  vault,  turned  with  a  ribbed 
Gothic  Arch,  it  is  about  15  by  40  and  from  it  was  an  arched 
passage  down  to  the  Water :  It  was  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
family,  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Duke  of  Somerset  in 
the  time  of  Edward  6th. 

From  several  parts  of  the  park  are  fine  views  of  the  country, 
and  especially  towards  the  north  :  In  the  lawn  behind  the 
house  on  the  East  side  of  it  is  the  old  Collegiate  Church  of 
Yester,  the  middle  part  of  which  being  destroyed,  The  Marquis 
has  rebuilt  it  in  very  good  Gothic  taste  ;  and  it  is  the  family 
burial  place  :  Here  was  a  Collegiate  Church  to  St.  Cuthbert  for 
a  Provost  six  prebendaries  and  two  Choiristors  founded  in  1420 
by  Sr  William  Hayes  of  Locher  Wood  and  Yester. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXVII. 

BERWICK  ON  TWEED,  Sepr.  22d,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  19th  I  left  Yester  and  came  in  three 
miles  to  Hadington,  which  is  a  town  well  situated  on  the  Tine. 
And  they  have  a  large  Woollen  Manufacture  of  Clothes ; 
There  was  a  Monastery  of  Grey  Friers  here,  where  William 
first  Lord  Seton  was  buried ;  Edward  the  1st  defaced  it ;  The 
Quire  was  so  beautifull  that  it  was  called  Lucerna  Laudonite, 
and  as  it  appears  plainly  that  the  Church  here  has  been  much 
altered  ;  it  might  be  the  Church  of  these  Franciscans  as  well  as 
the  parish  Church.  For  I  ommitted  to  enquire  if  for  the 
Monastery.  To  the  tower  of  the  Church  are  Saxon  windows, 
not  of  the  greatest  antiquity ;  There  was  a  kind  of  a  Gothic 
division  in  them  across  each  window :  The  West  door  also  is 
Saxon  and  divided  into  two  parts.  The  whole  Church  seems 
to  have  been  originally  in  that  taste,  and  built  of  a  white 
freestone,  but  the  new  Gothic  windows,  and  the  buttresses  are 
of  red  stone,  and  so  is  the  tower  in  the  middle. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the  Church  was  originally  an 
oblong  square  and  without  isles,  for  on  the  side  of  the  body  of 


318  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

the  Church  it  appears  plainly  that  there  were  large  windows 
coming  down  lower  than  the  roof  of  the  isle.  There  are  4 
windows  on  each  side  of  both  parts  of  the  Church.  This  place 
was  fortified  by  the  English  and  defended  for  them  by  Sir 
George  Wilford  against  the  French  General  Monsr  De  Erie l 
with  10,000  men  ; — but  the  plague  breaking  out,  the  Earl  of 
Rutland  raised  the  Siege,  leveled  the  works,  and  brought  the 
Eng811  home.  Sir  John  Ramsay,  who  did  execution  on  the 
Gowrie  Conspiracy,  was  made  Viscount  Hadington,  and  since 
that,  it  is  an  Earldom  in  a  family  of  the  Hamiltons.  Near  it 
is  Athelstan,2  so  called  from  Athelstan  an  English  Commander 
slain  there  about  the  year  815. 

I  went  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  New  Mills,  Mr.  Charters^,  who 
has  built  a  large  house  of  the  red  freestone,  with  a  Paladian 
lonick  Logis  on  the  first  floor  of  the  grand  front,  and  a  bow 
window  in  the  middle  of  each  side.  There  is  a  fine  galery  on 
the  second  floor  in  which  room  and  in  another  are  several  very 
good  paintings :  The  avenues  are  planted  with  a  wood  on  each 
side,  and  the  lawns  with  Clumps  and  single  trees.  There  is  a 
bowling  green  and  Summer  house,  and  a  fine  walk  by  the  river, 
and  a  most  beautifull  Kitchen  garden  that  way.  A  little  on 
this  side  of  Salton  the  freestone  begins,  and  I  believe  ends  at 
the  Tine ;  to  the  north  of  which  the  Country  seems  to  be  all  a 
firestone. 

A  very  short  ride  brought  us  to  the  Abbey,  which  seems  to 
have  been  the  Cistercian  Nunnery  mentioned  to  have  been  at 
this  place,  Governed  by  a  Prioress  and  her  Chapter,  founded  in 
1178  by  Ada  Countess  of  Northumberland  Mother  to  Malcolm 
4th  and  K.  William.  There  are  no  remains  of  the  Abbey 
except  a  few  arches  of  vaults.  To  the  East  of  Haddington  is 
a  place  called  Nungate,  and  about  it  is  St.  Martin's  Chapel  the 
walls  of  which  are  standing.  We  went  on  northward,  and 
came  to  that  ridge  of  rocks  which  extends  to  North  Berwick 
law,  having  crossed  the  road  from  Berwick  on  Tweed  to  Edin- 
burgh in  which  I  traveled  in  1747.3 

We  came  to  that  remarkable  high  Conical  rock,  called  North 
Berwick  Law,  which  I  believe  is  wholly  composed  of  Granite, 

1  General  Andrew  de  Montalembert  Sieur  D'Esse. 

2  Athelstaneford.  3  See  p.  2. 


HADDINGTON,  NORTH  BERWICK.  319 

of  a  bad  red  Colour :  We  descended  to  North  Berwick  a  small 
illbuilt  town  situated  on  a  strand  :  A  promontory  stretches  out 
from  it  which  seems  to  have  been  an  island,  from  the  north 
end  of  which  a  pier  is  built  that  extends  to  the  west,  within 
which,  vessels  of  200  ton  can  come  at  spring  tydes,  but  com- 
monly those  of  about  100  tons  :  On  this  promontory  is  a  small 
ruined  Chapel,  arched  over,  and  a  tower  a  little  to  the  north- 
west of  it :  They  told  me  it  was  called  St.  Elan  and  was  a 
Monastery :  I  suppose  it  must  have  been  the  Cistercian  nunnery 
built  to  the  honour  of  the  Virgin  Mary  in  1266 l  by  Malcolm 
son  of  Duncan  Earl  of  Fife. 

This  Town  has  a  trade  from  their  distilleries  and  Manufacture 
of  Starch :  They  also  have  large  Granaries  here,  &  export  a 
great  quantity  of  Malt  and  of  several  kinds  of  Grain.  It  is 
said  that  King  Edward  1st  after  the  battle  of  Banock  Burne 
gave  up  this  Castle,  and  retired  to  the  Castle  of  Dunbar. 

I  proceeded  two  miles  to  Tantallon  Castle,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  great  bay,  called  the  Frith  of  Forth :  it  is  situated  on  a 
promontory,  and  the  sea  washes  its  high  cliffs  on  three  sides : 
There  is  a  deep  fossee  before  it,  over  which  there  was  a  wall, 
and  there  seems  to  have  been  a  drawbridge ;  There  are  marks 
of  a  modern  Bastion  before  it,  and  from  a  little  Gully,  a  line 
is  drawn  to  the  north  cliff  at  a  little  distance,  which  is  joyned 
to  the  grand  fossee  by  a  line  on  each  side :  The  walls  I  believe 
are  sixty  feet  high,  and  so  are  the  towers  in  which  there  are  six 
stories,  besides  the  Vault  under  them ;  It  appears  that  the 
Southern  tower  has  fallen  down,  and  has  been  rebuilt  with 
hewn  stone.  For  part  of  the  old  tower  remains,  the  basement 
is  divided  into  three  parts  by  two  double  tiers  of  hewn  stone, 
at  proper  distances,  and  above  into  eleven  parts,  but  towards 
the  top  there  are  only  single  tiers  of  hewn  stone. 

The  gateway  is  divided  in  the  same  manner  upwards  from 
about  twenty  feet  from  the  bottom  ;  the  top  part,  where  it 
projects  for  the  battlements  is  of  hewn  stone,  The  Northern 
tower  seems  to  have  been  built  in  a  rougher  manner :  To  this 
stupendous  wall,  there  were  appartments  built  on  the  inside,  but 
all  is  destroyed  and  carried  away,  and  there  is  a  passage  to  the 

1  Founded  by  Duncan,  Earl  of  Fife,  in  1154.  The  Earl  of  Carrick,  in  1266, 
confirmed  to  the  nuns  the  grants  of  his  fathers. 


320  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

top  through  the  wall.  On  the  north  side  is  a  building  which 
seems  to  have  consisted  of  two  large  rooms,  and  vaults  under 
them,  which  were  probably  the  State  apartments :  There  is  no 
wall  to  the  East  or  South.  From  this  Castle  Archibald 
Douglas  Earl  of  Angus  gave  James  5th  a  great  deal  of 
Trouble. 

From  hence  they  generally  go  to  the  Bass  from  which  there 
is  a  fine  prospect  in  fair  weather,  but  bad  weather  prevented 
me  going  to  it.  The  Solan  Goose,  called  in  Ireland  the 
Gannet,  breeds  here :  There  are  three  or  four  rocks  in  the  sea 
near  Berwick.  I  went  on  three  miles  to  Tyningham  The  Earl 
of  Hadington's.  Here  is  an  old  Church  and  the  finest  dipt 
holly  hedges,  as  a  fence  to  the  fields,  I  ever  saw.  The  planta- 
tions of  firr  trees  also  and  the  ridings  are  very  fine.  I  came 
into  the  high  road  from  Edinburgh  to  Dunbar,  and  in  three 
miles  more  to  that  town,  which  is  eleven  measured  miles  from 
Haddington  and  27  from  Edinburgh. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXVIII. 

CORNWALL  IN  NORTHUMBERLAND,  Sepr.  23^,  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Dunbar  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  eminence 
— over  a  bay  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tyne : l  It  chiefly  consists 
of  one  broad  street  and  another  at  right  angles  with  it,  which 
leads  to  the  harbour ; 

They  have  a  large  Church  here ; 2  The  old  part  of  the 
Quire  consists  of  small  narrow  Gothic  windows :  There  are 
three  of  them  at  the  east  end,  The  body  seems  to  be  an  addition 
of  four  arches  and  a  transept,  There  is  a  large  Chapel  built  to 
the  south ;  The  east  end  is  now  separated  from  it,  under 
which  there  is  a  Vault,  for  the  family  of  Hume3  Earls  of 
Dunbar,  The  first  being  Sir  George  Hume,  who  was  made  by 
King  James  6th  Baron  Hume  of  Berwick  and  afterwards  in 

1  The  river  Tyne  separates  the  parish  of  Dunbar  from  that  of  Tynninghame. 

2  Demolished  in  1818,  and  the  present  church  built  on  the  site. 

3  Home — pronounced  Hume — created  Earl  of  Dunbar  in  1605. 


TYNNINGHAME,  DUNBAR.  321 

1515  Earl  of  Dunbar,  as  some  say  for  clearing  the  country  of 
Robbers:1  And  at  the  east  end  is  a  magnificent  monument 
covering  the  three  windows,  with  this  inscription  on  it.  Here 
lyeth  the  body  of  the  reight  honle  George  Earl  of  Dvnbar 
Baron  Howme  of  Barwick,  Lord  heigh  Tressr.  of  Scotland, 
Knight  of  the  most  noble  order  of  the  Garter,  And  one  of 
his  Matte  most  hoble  privie  Covnsell  whoe  depted  this  life 
the  xxix  day  of  Jannvary  MDCXI. 

He  is  represented  in  the  mantle  of  the  order  as  Kneeling  (at 
a  Desk  with  a  book  on  it)  on  a  Cushion  placed  on  a  Sarcopha- 
gus, on  each  side  of  him  are  Cariatides  of  men  in  Coats  of 
Mail,  holding  with  one  hand  the  Arms  on  a  shield ;  They 
support  an  Entablature  upon  which  on  each  side  are  the 
Statues  of  Justice  &  Charity  with  a  Corinthian  pilaster  on  each 
of  them,  between  them  is  the  inscription,  and  above  on  the 
Entablature  on  each  side  is  a  Coat  of  Arms,  between  these  is 
a  Sarcophagus  and  on  the  middle  of  it  seems  to  have  been  a 
Coat  of  Arms ;  The  Execution  and  Design  is  very  fine  and  it 
is  said  to  be  Italian,  on  it  is  this  Motto,  Homo  ditat,  Deus 
beat. 

They  had  here  a  Monastery  of  red  friars  founded  by  Patrick 
Earl  of  Dunbar  &  March  1218.  There  was  also  a  Convent  2 
of  white  friars  or  Carmelites  founded  in  1263  by  Patrick  Earl 
of  March.  There  is  a  place  they  call  the  grey  friers  which  I 
suppose  was  the  Carmelites,  a  plain  tower  is  standing  but  no 
other  part,  and  some  sheds  seem  to  have  been  built  against  it. 

I  went  to  see  the  harbour  which  is  cut  out  of  the  Rock,  a 
pier  is  formed  to  the  East,  and  there  is  an  opening  to  the 
north,  but  rather  difficult  to  enter,  and  it  is  not  practicable 
when  the  wind  blows  a  little. hard  from  the  north  east.  It  will 
hold  a  ship  of  300  tons,  and  they  can  enter  here  when  they 
cannot  sail  into  the  Frith  of  Forth.  The  Castle  was  built  on 
a  rock,  which  is  a  peninsula ;  on  the  south  side  is  a  gateway 
leading  to  a  ruined  building,  which  seems  to  have  consisted  of 
two  grand  appartments  in  the  Castle  way;  over  it  in  the 
middle  are  the  Arms  of  Scotland,  and  on  each  side  of  it  a  Coat 

1  The  achievement  of  Patrick  Cospatrick  or  Dunbar  ;  created  for  the  valorous 
act  Earl  of  March. 

2  Monastery  : — no  vestige  now  remains. 

X 


322  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

of  Arms ;  From  this  apartment  a  high  wall  extended  to  an 
island  near  the  shoar,  but  it  is  every  way  a  perpendicular  Cliff : 
There  is  a  covered  way  to  it  through  this  wall ;  The  Castle  was 
the  seat  of  the  Earls  of  March  who  for  this  reason  were 
commonly  called  Earls  of  Dunbar. 

1  The  passage  into  the  harbour  as  observed  before  is  very 
narrow  between  two  rocks,  one  of  them  is  the  east  side  of  the 
harbour,  The  other  is  a  promontory  stretching  out  about  100 
yards  to  the  north,  and  50  feet  wide,  having  the  sea  on  each 
side  of  it  when  the  tyde  is  in  :  And  this  head  is  a  most  extra- 
ordinary natural  curiosity :  It  is  of  a  red  stone  which  is  not  a 
limestone,  but  looks  rather  like  a  very  hard  freestone.  This 
appears  on  both  sides  like  the  Giant's  Causeway  in  Ireland : 
The  stones  on  the  west  side  are  from  a  foot  to  two  foot  over, 
they  are  larger  on  the  east  side,  from  two  feet  to  four  feet.  I 
saw  them  from  three  to  eight  sides,  but  only  one  or  two  of  the 
first  and  last  :  They  may  be  said  to  be  in  Joynts,  but  differ 
from  that  in  Ireland  as  both  the  pillars  and  the  Joynts  in  each 

1  The  following  was  communicated  by  Dr.  Pococke  to  the  Royal  Society  ; — it 
is  very  nearly  the  ipsissima  verba  of  the  text  : — '  An  account  of  a  Production  of 
Nature  at  Dunbar  in  Scotland,  like  that  of  the  Giants-Causeway  in  Ireland  ;  by 
the  Right  Reverend  Richard  Lord  Bishop  of  Ossory,  F.R.S.,  read  before  the 
Royal  Society,  Feb.  26,  1761.  The  passage  into  the  harbour  of  Dunbar  is 
very  narrow,  between  two  rocks  :  one  of  them  is  the  east  side  of  the  harbour  ; 
the  other  is  a  promontory,  stretching  out  about  a  hundred  yards  to  the  north, 
and  is  about  twenty  yards  wide,  having  the  sea  on  each  side  of  it,  when  the  tide 
is  in.  This  head  is  a  most  extraordinary  natural  curiosity  :  it  is  of  a  red  stone, 
which  is  not  a  lime-stone,  but  appears  rather  like  a  very  hard  free  stone.  It 
looks  on  both  sides  like  the  Giant's-Causeway  in  Ireland  :  the  stones  on  the  west 
side  are  from  a  foot  to  two  feet  over  ;  on  the  east  side  they  are  larger,  from  two 
feet  to  four  feet.  I  observed  the  pillars  from  three  to  eight  sides  ;  but  only  one 
or  two  of  the  first  and  last ;  they  may  be  said  to  be  in  joints,  but  are  strongly 
cemented  together  by  a  red  and  white  sparry  substance,  which  is  formed  in 
lamina  round  the  pillars,  and  between  the  joints,  two  or  three  inches  in  thick- 
ness. The  interstices  between  the  large  pillars,  which  are  but  few,  are  filled 
with  small  pillars,  without  joints.  The  pillars  consist  of  horizontal  laminae  : 
the  joints  are  not  concave  and  convex  when  separated,  but  uneven  and  irregular  : 
they  lie  sloping  from  east  to  west :  on  the  west  side,  towards  the  end,  the  pillars 
become  very  large  &  confused,  as  I  saw  them  to  the  east  of  the  Giant's-Causeway, 
and  in  the  isle  of  Mull ;  except  that  these  are  divided  by  such  a  sparry  substance 
into  a  great  number  of  small  figures,  which  seem  to  go  down  through  them. 
There  are  spots  and  veins  of  a  whitish  stone  in  the  pillars.  There  is  no  sign 
of  anything  of  the  kind  in  any  of  the  rocks  near,  that  I  could  observe  or  hear  of.' 
— Philosophical  Transactions,  Royal  Society,  London,  vol.  lii.  p.  98. 


DUNBAR.  323 

pillar  are  strongly  cemented  together  by  a  red  and  white  sparry 
substance,  which  is  formed  in  lamina  round  the  pillars,  and 
between  the  Joynts  for  two  or  three  inches  in  thickness.  The 
interstices  between  the  large  pillars  which  rarely  happen  are 
filled  with  small  pillars  without  Joynts.  The  pillars  consist  of 
horrizontal  Lamina,  the  Joynts  are  not  concave  and  convex 
when  separated,  but  uneven  and  irregular.  They  lye  sloping 
from  East  to  west :  on  the  west  side  towards  the  end  the 
pillars  become  very  large  and  confused  as  I  saw  them  to  the 
east  of  the  Giant's  Causeway,  and  in  the  isle  of  Mull,  but  these 
are  divided  by  a  sparry  substance  into  a  great  number  of  small 
figures,  which  seem  to  go  down  through  them :  There  are 
spots  &  veins  of  a  whitish  stone  in  the  pillars.  They 
have  taken  these  stones  to  make  up  some  of  the  south  part 
of  the  pier,  and  have  drove  in  pieces  of  wood  to  fasten  them. 
There  is  no  sign  of  anything  of  this  kind  in  any  other  of  the 
rocks. 

About  a  mile  to  the  south  are  Trochi  and  Entrochi  in  a 
brown  Earth  in  the  Cliff'  as  I  was  told ;  They  are  found  on 
the  Shoar  and  some  of  them  which  I  procured,  are  in  a  red 
stone. 

They  have  here  some  linnen  Manufacture,  and  Export  of  Corn 
and  an  import  of  boards,  timber,  hemp,  flax,  iron,  &c.  They 
have  very  little  fishing  trade,  the  Fish  they  say  has  failed, 
particularly  the  herrings ;  some  supposed  for  want  of  the  proper 
food,  which  they  are  supposed  to  suck  out  of  the  ground,  as 
they  are  seen  with  their  mouths  fixed  into  the  ground  ;  and 
their  tails  up.  I  here  was  assured  that  the  Skait  are  found  in 
those  bags  I  have  formerly  mentioned  in 
this  shape  one  in  each,  and  the  fisher- 
men assured  me  that  they  sometimes 
find  three  or  four  in  the  Skaits  belly ; 
These  are  Skeats  Eggs.  I  have  opened  one  with  a  young  Skeat 
in  it.  As  well  as  I  could  be  informed  the  black  belong  to  the 
black  thorn  back  Skait :  The  long  white  ones  to  the  other 
kind  of  Skaits. 

In  the  town  house  I  saw  the  ancient  Militia  pikes  which  are 
very  large  and  a  sort  of  bill  on  a  handle  with  a  hook  to  the 
back  of  it  to  draw  a  man  from  his  horse.  When  Cromwell 


-—* — "'"•"""•^*».. 

HI 


324  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

went  against  the  Scotch,  who  took  up  Arms  in  favour  of 
Charl8  the  2d  he  was  encamped  where  the  Duke  of  Rox- 
borough's  Park  now  is,  within  a  small  mile  of  Dunbar,  and  was 
so  encompassed  by  the  enemy  on  the  hills  all  round,  that  he 
was  in  such  great  want  of  Provisions,  as  to  think  of  embarking 
his  foot,  and  of  forcing  his  way  through  with  the  horse.  In 
the  morning  he  went  up  to  a  little  eminence  to  prayer  in 
sight  of  his  Army,  and  seeing  the  enemy  coming  down  the  hill 
to  engage,  he  rose  up,  and  said  the  Lord  hath  delivered  them 
into  our  hands.  They  came  down  with  their  Bibles  under  their 
arms,  and  it  being  windy  and  beginning  to  rain,  their  match- 
locks would  not  fire,  so  they  turned  their  backs,  and  were 
entirely  defeated. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXIX. 

MlLERSTONE,  Sepr.  2$ik  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  went  on  a  mile  to  Broxmouth,  where  the 
Duke  of  Roxborough  has  a  house  and  park,  encompassed  with 
a  high  Wall.  I  came  to  the  Bay  beyond  Broxburn,  where  I 
found  in  the  rocks  what  I  took  to  be  a  small  Kind  of  Coral,  but 
am  not  certain.  I  then  came  to  a  bed  of  the  Mycetitoe  Coral, 
and  something  like  the  Spawn  of  fish,  and  then  to  the  same 
Kind  of  Coral  and  Vermiculi.  And  I  observed  that  lines  run 
straight  from  north  to  south  in  the  Freestone,  and  that  by 
irregular  lines  from  east  to  west,  they  were  divided  into  a  great 
number  of  figures  ;  and  in  some  parts,  the  Joynts  form  a  Circle 
five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  within  which,  the  stones  were 
divided  into  many  irregular  parts. 

At  the  old  ruined  Chapel1  of  Skitraw  is  a  soft  blew  slate: 
Towards  the  rivulet  which  comes  down  from  Dunglass  Glynr 
are  the  petrifying  Springs ;  They  form  a  sort  of  figure  like 
Moss,  and  also  a  Yellow  Alabaster,  especially  on  the  outside : 

1  There  stood,  at  one  time,  on  the  Skateraw  shore  a  chapel,  dedicated  to  St. 
Dennys.  The  remains  have  now  yielded  to  the  sea. — New  Stat.  Ac.,  vol.  ii. 
Innerwick,  p.  243. 


DUNGLASS.  325 

I  saw  a  vast  mass  of  it  which  has  fallen  down  from  the  cliff, 
it  is  about  30  feet  long  12  broad  &  six  or  seven  thick.  The 
water  passes  through  the  freestone,  &  forms  what  they  call  a 
petrified  Moss,  and  when  it  happens  to  pass  through  a  harder 
bed  of  it,  the  fine  parts  adhering  to  one  another,  may  form  the 
.Alabaster.  From  Skitraw  it  is  mostly  freestone. 

A  little  beyond  this,  is  a  large  head  of  land  extending  four 
i  or  5  miles  to  the  east,  as  one  side  of  it  is  Fast  Castle.  Half 
way  between  the  angle  of  the  bay  and  the  head  the  rock  pro- 
jects to  the  north,  here  the  whin  or  fire  stone  begins,  but  the 
freestone  breaks  out  underneath  it  in  one  place.  A  little 
beyond  Skitraw  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  on  each  side  of  a  rivulet 
and  Glyn  is  a  Castle,  one  is  called  Inverwick1  place  ;  The  other 
Thornton  Castle. 

I  came  on  to  Dunglass  Sr  John  Hall's,  very  pleasantly 
situated,  the  sea  appears  at  the  end  of  the  lawn,  which  is 
before  the  house,  on  each  side  of  which  is  a  wood,  &  a  rivulet 
runs  towards  the  end  of  the  lawn  under  a  small  arch  over  which 
the  ground  is  raised  ;  in  the  Glyn,  it  runs  up  on  a  quarry  of 
freestone  in  which  between  the  stones  the  West  Indian  plant 
called  Opuntia  marked  like  the  Echinus  is  found  petrified.  I 
saw  one  near  three  feet  long,  and  have  several  specimens  of 
them,  they  are  the  same  as  are  found  in  the  Winter  torrents 
at  Castle  Comer  in  the  County  of  Kilkenny  in  Ireland :  on  the 
east  side  of  the  avenue  hid  by  trees  is  the  Collegiate  Church 
'founded  in  1450  for  a  Provost  and  Prebendaries  by  Sir  Alex- 
ander Hume,  Ancestor  to  the  present  Earl.  It  is  kept  in 
repair  but  not  in  service,  and  is  well  covered  with  stone  slates ; 
the  doors  though  not  Saxon  are  true  Arches ;  and  it  is  a  good 
I  building  : 

To  the  back  of  the  house  is  a  beautifull  Glyn2  covered  with 
Wood  of  40  years  growth,  it  is  about  120  feet  deep  to  the 
north  and  90  to  the  south,  in  which  the  perpendicular  cliffs  of 
freestone  add  to  the  Picture  ;  above  the  house  is  a  Coal  pit,3 
the  Coal  of  which  rises  small,  and  is  full  of  sulphur,  so  that  it 
is  used  only  for  burning  lime,  and  by  the  poor  people  ;  a  most 

1  Innerwick  Castle. 

2  Dunglass  Dean — a  picturesque  ravine. 

3  Not  been  worked  for  a  century. 


326  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

extraordinary  road  is  cut  through  this  perpendicular  rock  by 
Sr  John  Hall  being  like  the  road  of  Penmen  Maur  in  North 
Wales  in  Miniature :  They  have  found  in  the  coals  a  sort  of 
Iron  Mendik,  and  between  the  rocks  a  kind  of  light  brown 
Pipe  Clay  :  They  have  also  here  an  uncommon  red  earth.  He 
is  about  to  make  a  bridge  from  the  south  side  to  the  north  for 
the  greater  convenience  of  the  Carriage.  There  is  a  little  hill 
to  the  west  of  the  house  which  was  fortified  with  bastions  of 
earth,  as  'tis  said,  by  the  Queen  Regent  during  Queen  Mary's 
minority:  The  late  owner  built  a  Summer  house  on  it,  and 
made  a  bowling  green  within  the  fortress.  At  Inver  Andrew 
place  is  a  mount,  at  the  foot  of  which  they  have  found  several 
caves  made  with  four  stones,  and  covered  with  a  single  stone, 
in  each  of  which  was  a  Skeleton,  that  fell  to  pieces  on  being 
touched. 

It  is  observed  that  if  Firr  trees  are  cut  down,  when  the  roots 
rot,  they  destroy  all  trees  whose  roots  adjoin,  except  Oak,  even 
firr  themselves,  which  is  supposed  to  be  owing  to  Vitriotic 
Acid  in  the  roots.  Land  here,  near  the  Sea,  lets  for  30  and  35 
shillings  an  acre.  It  is  observed  that  the  land  which  inclines 
to  the  north,  produces  better  and  fuller  Corn,  than  that  which 
is  in  a  Southern  exposition.  Sir  John  Hall  has  a  good  house, 
being  part  of  a  large  one  built  round  a  Court.  There  is  a 
gallery  in  it  90  feet  long.  This  Gentleman  is  also  making  a 
harbour  to  the  South  of  the  rivulet  near  the  old  Salt  house. 
— I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXX. 

MELROSS  ON  THE  TWEED,  Sepr,  z6th  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — I  Departed  from  Dunglass  on  the  22d  and 
leaving  East  Lothian  came  into  Mers,  or  Berwickshire,  then 
going  about  two  miles  in  the  road  that  leads  to  Berwick,  we 
turned  out  of  it  to  the  east,  to  go  to  Coldingham,  and  passed 
by  an  old  Chapel  in  ruins,  and  then  by  a  Quarry  of  stones  which 
are  used  instead  of  Slates  for  Covering,  and  not  far  from  Fast 


COLDINGHAM.  327 

Castle  at  the  south  east  head  of  this  bay.  We  then  had  St. 
Ebb's  head l  to  the  east  a  little  before  we  came  to  Coldingham, 
(so  called  from  St.  Ebbes  landing  there,  after  she  had 
embarked  in  a  boat  on  the  Humber  on  her  father  Edelfred 
King  of  Northumberland  his  being  made  a  prisoner. 

Coldingham  is  famous  for  its  Nunnery,  situated  in  a  Valley 
on  a  rivulet,  with  a  gentle  descent  to  it,  on  three  sides,  and  in 
view  of  the  Sea ;  It  was  founded  by  St.  Ebbe  and  had  a  very 
tragical  end ;  for  the  Abbess  and  the  Nuns  cut  off  their  upper 
lips  and  noses  to  avoid  the  lust  of  the  Danes  in  870  who  set 
fire  to  the  Monastery  and  burnt  them  in  it. 

In  1098  K.  Edgar  founded  a  Benedictine  Monastery  here  to 
St.  Cuthbert  and  gave  it  to  the  Monks  of  Durham  with  great 
privileges  ;  little  remains  of  it  except  part  of  the  Church  which 
is  of  later  date  than  the  foundation  of  the  Second  Priory,  and 
the  Architecture  is  singular,  the  east  part  is  rather  low :  The 
whole  is  built  with  single  Gothic  windows,  except  as  described ; 
The  transept  was  high  and  grand,  with  four  tiers  of  windows  in 
the  gable,  the  highest  a  narrow  window,  then  a  round  window, 
and  a  double  window  on  each  side  of  it,  then  two  tiers  of  three 
windows  each  :  between  these  two  last  tiers  within  are  two 
arched  :  on  each  side  were  two  galleries  formed  in  front  by  a 
long  arch  and  two  short  arches  divided  by  pillars  only  :  There 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  any  building  to  the  West  of  the 
middle  part  of  the  transept  for  the  great  door  is  in  it,  opposite 
to  the  east  end ;  and  a  building  comes  against  it  to  the  south 
of  the  door  which  might  have  been  the  refectory  ;  to  the  north 
of  these  is  a  Churchyard  where  the  Cloyster  might  have  been  ; 
what  is  most  singular  in  the  South  Gable  on  one  side  is  a  work 
like  a  projecting  chimney  with  a  short  pillar  on  it :  This  they 
told  me  was  to  let  down  a  picture  of  our  Saviour,  and  they 
have  a  particular  name  for  it. 

Buchanan,  it  is  said,  calls  this  place  Collidum,  and  Cambden 
thought  it  to  be  Colania2  of  Ptolemy,  which  has  been  fixed  to 
Carnwath  near  Lanerk. 

We  went  on  six  computed  and  nine  measured  miles  to  Berwick ; 
in  three  miles  we  passed  a  pleasant  village  called  Eden 3  on  the 

1  St.  Abb's,  from  Ebba  the  daughter  of  Ethelfrith. 

2  See  p.  45.  3  Ayton. 


328  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Hy,1  about  two  miles  from  it  is  a  little  seaport  town  called 
Hymouth : l  We  passed  by  Lumurtin 2  and  Lumurtin  hill  on 
which  there  is  a  Camp,  and  near  Hollydown  3  hill  to  the  west, 
famous  for  many  battles  between  the  Scotch  and  English. 

We  left  Scotland  and  came  into  the  government  of  England 
to  Berwick,  on  the  24th  from  Cornhill  we  went  into  Scotland 
again  :  Here  in  one  spot  three  Countys  and  two  Kingdoms 
meet. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXXI. 

SELKIRK,  Sepr.  z"]th  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  23d  I  went,  from  Cornhill  in  North- 
umberland, a  mile  to  the  ferry  over  the  Tweed  (within  half  a 
mile  of  Coldstream),  which  I  crossed  and  stopt  at  that  poor 
town,  there  are  no  remains  of  the  old  Cistertian  Nunnery  here 
except  a  part  of  the  Gateway  ;  it  was  founded  by  Patrick  Earl 
of  March,  and  Derder  his  Lady  about  1166,  near  it  is  Abbey 
Leys,4  doubtless  the  dairy  of  the  Abbey,  where  Mr.  Pringle  has 
built  a  handsome  house,  and  made  a  beautifull  plantation. 
Half  a  mile  below  the  ferry  is  old  Coldstream,  where  I  observed 
a  ruined  Chapel :  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  Cornhill  The 
river  seems  to  have  left  its  Chanel  and  to  have  encroached  on 
the  Scotch  side  and  left  a  piece  of  Scotland  on  the  east  side, 
for  there  is  one  field  there  in  Scotland,  so  that  in  this  place 
two  Kingdoms  meet  and  three  Counties,  that  is  Mers  in  Scot- 
land, Northumberland  in  which  Cornhill  parish  is  situated,  and 
a  part  of  the  Bishoprick  of  Durham. 

I  left  Cornhill  on  the  24th  and  having  passed  Wark  and 
Carram5  crossed  a  stream  into  the  Shire  of  Roxborough,  Tiviot- 
dale  in  Scotland :  &  gomg  over  a  hill  came  towards  Kelso, 
passing  near  Hampside  Ford,  where  there  is  a  tradition  6  that 
James  IV.  was  seen  to  pass  the  morning  after  the  battle  of 
Flodden  field  :  The  Country  appears  exceeding  beautifull  about 

1  River  Eye,  Eyemouth.  2  Lamberton. 

3  Halidon.  4  Lees,  the  seat  of  Sir  Wm.  Marjoribanks. 

5  Carham.  6  See  p.  350. 


KELSO.  329 

Kelso.  The  hanging  ground  is  covered  with  wood  to  the 
south,  there  is  also  wood  to  the  west  and  a  very  rich  country 
every  way  :  They  have  lately  built  by  subscription  and  a  tax 
on  ale  in  Kelso  a  fine  bridge  of  six  arches,  the  largest  of  which 
is  63  feet  wide. 

Kelso  would  be  a  very  disagreeable  town  if  it  were  not  for  a 
large  square,  in  which  there  is  a  handsome  Town  house :  But 
it  is  famous  for  its  Abbey  of  Tyronenses  first  founded  in  Selkirk 
by  David  1st  when  Earl  of  Northumberland,  it  was  then 
removed  by  him  to  Roxborough,  first  under  the  Castle,  where 
there  were  some  buildings  not  long  agoe,  and  it  is  to  this  day 
called  the  Freres,  and  part  of  the  old  wall  round  it  remains  ; 
It  was  removed  again  by  the  King  to  Kelso :  The  lands  belong 
now  to  the  Duke  of  Roxborough,  being  given  by  James  6th  to 
Sir  Robert  Ker  of  Cessford  his  Ancestor ;  Very  little  remains 
of  it  except  part  of  the  Church  which  appears  from  the 
style  to  have  been  built  at  the  time  of  the  first  foundation, 
being  entirely  of  Saxon  Architecture  ;  and  it  is  very  singular : 
To  the  South  is  a  small  building  with  a  Saxon  door  to  the 
west,  the  north  side  is  adorned  with  the  like  arches,  and  they 
say  that  it  was  part  -of  the  Cloyster,  but  unless  it  were  a 
building  within  the  Cloyster,  it  must  have  been  too  near  to 
the  Church. 

I  went  to  a  place  which  is  over  the  river  on  the  west  side  of 
the  town,  and  commands  a  view  of  the  windings  of  the  Tweed, 
and  the  Tiviot  falling  into  it  which  makes  the  Freres  and  the 
Castle  of  Roxborough  a  peninsula.  The  Castle  itself,  situated 
on  an  eminence,  is  of  an  irregular  figure,  the  old  wall  that 
encompassed  it  remains  in  part,  and  within  there  is  a  Clump 
of  trees  ;  and  Sir  James  Douglas  has  built  a  house  which 
appears  as  on  the  same  side,  though  it  is  to  the  south  of  the 
Teviot.  There  is  an  additional  beauty  from  the  terrace  before 
the  Duke  of  Roxborough's  house,  which  is  a  rampart  to  the  west 
covered  with  wood :  The  Teviot  could  be  brought  in  so  as  to 
water  a  fossee  round  the  Castle. 

The  Duke's  house  was  on  the  spot  of  the  Freres  now  called 
Fleurs,1  but  the  late  Duke  removed  it  to  the  place  where  it 
now  stands,  on  an  eminence  to  the  North  of  the  Castle :  The 

1  Floors  Castle. 


330  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

house  is  about  200  feet  long,  on  each  side  are  offices  in  a 
half  H  which  appear  square  to  the  grand  front.  They  are 
joyned  to  the  house  by  an  angular  Corridore :  The  whole  is 
built  of  rough  stone,  with  window  cases  of  hewn  stone  :  It  is 
strange  so  large  a  house  should  not  afford  one  grand  room: 
There  is  a  fine  Lawn  to  the  front,  and  the  fields  are  beautifully 
divided  and  planted,  so  that  every  way  it  is  a  charming  place 
and  situation ;  and  the  adjacent  country  is  beyond  all  dispute, 
the  flower  of  Scotland.  From  the  Duke  of  RoxborouglVs  house, 
I  went  two  miles  to  the  river  Eden  to  see  a  waterfall  of  that 
river  down  a  rock  near  40  feet  high,  which  they  say  is  very  fine 
in  a  flood : 

I  was  shewn  a  small  ridge  which  extends  from  the  Tweed 
towards  the  town  of  Dunse,1  and  is  called  the  Caym 2  or  Comb, 
and  is  imagined  by  some  poople  to  be,  without  appearance  of 
truth,  a  roman  work,  but  it  is  certainly  natural. 

We  went  to  Stichhill  Sir  Robert  Pringles,  where  I  dined.  It 
is  a  good  old  house  with  a  long  avenue  before  it  formed  by 
wood  on  each  side  &  a  large  plantation  on  the  Demesne  ;  above 
is  a  rock  which  has  been  fortified,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  Country,  particularly  of  Hume  Castle  a  little  to  the  north 
east,  where  Lord  Hume^s  Ancestors  resided,  it  is  situated  on  a 
high  hill :  I  here  saw  a  great  Curiosity  made  of  a  Composition 
like  princes  metal,  it  appeared  at  first  like  a  large  bracelet3  for 
a  Warrior  (a  drawing  of  it  is  here  seen)  but  the  objection  to 
that  is  that  it  is  much  worn  towards  the  broad  part  at  one  end 
and  a  little  on  the  other  part  on  the  same  side.  Half  of 
another  also  found  with  it  is  worn  on  the  same  sides  :  They  are 
of  fine  workmanship,  and  ornamented  in  very  good  taste. 
There  are  holes  at  each  end  which  are  not  in  the  least  worn, 
otherwise  it  was  conjectured  that  they  might  have  served  for 
stirrups.  I  have  thought  they  might  be  bracelets,  to  go  over 
the  arms  and  clothes  of  a  man,  and  that  it  might  be  worn  by 

1  Recently  resumed  the  ancient  name — Duns. 

8  Kames. 

8  '  A  massive  collar  of  cast  bronze  was  found  in  digging  a  well  at  Stitchell, 
in  Roxburghshire,  in  1747,  and  is  now  in  the  National  Museum.'  Probably 
this  bronze  armlet  was  part  of  the  same  find.  It  closely  resembles  the  unknown 
armlet  in  the  National  Museum,  Fig.  126,  in  Anderson's  Scotland  in  Pagan 
Times,  1883,  p.  149.  For  collar,  ibid.  Fig.  1 12,  p.  136. 


DUNS,  STITCHELL. 


[Front] 


[Back.] 


Representation  of  Ancient  Bracelet  [Bronze  Armlet], 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

resting  either  the  bow  or  spear  on  it :  But  by  viewing  them 
more  exactly  any  one  may  consider  by  what  use  they  could  be 
worn  in  that  manner.  They  were  found  three  feet  under 
ground  in  digging  a  well  here. 

In  the  way  to  Mellerstane,  Mr.  Bayleys,1  I  saw  two  stones 
laying  in  the  ground,  about  six  feet  long,  in  shape  like  the 
stones  of  the  Giant's  Causeway,  and  it  is  said  there  was  a 
third  :  Whether  these  were  brought  from  Dunbar  or  elsewhere, 
or  worked  by  art  I  cannot  take  upon  me  to  determine.  I  came 
to  Millerstane  Mr.  Baily's.1 — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXXII. 

WOOLER  IN  NORTHUMBERLAND,  Sepr.  z%tk  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — Mellerstain  is  well  situated  on  an  eminence 
with  a  hill  behind  it  to  the  west,  adorned  with  Plantations 
formed  into  Ridings  and  Stars.  The  offices  are  finished,  and 
there  is  a  fine  lawn  and  wood  both  to  the  Front  and  back  of  the 
intended  house ;  below  to  the  east  is  a  fine  piece  of  water ; 
There  are  Woods  on  each  side,  and  on  a  hill  to  the  north  of  the 
Water  is  a  Star.  The  rest  is  divided  into  very  fine  large  fields 
with  hedge  rows  of  firr  and  other  trees  and  quicks  round  them  : 
the  late  plantations  consist  of  double  hedge  rows  and  a  walk 
between  them  :  and  Mr.  Bailey1  is  every  year  carrying  on  these 
improvements.  His  Aunt  Lady  Murray,  sister  to  his  mother 
Lady  Binny2  was  a  great  heiress  which  she  left  to  his  Mother, 
and  remainder  to  him. 

At  the  end  of  a  cross  walk,  called  the  Grove,  is  a  building 
which  appears  like  a  temple,  and  on  each  side  of  the  door  is  an 
English  inscription,  and  likewise  a  very  elegant  latin  inscription 
writ  by  Dr.  King,  Principal  of  St.  Mary  Hall  Oxford.  To  the 
honour  of  the  Father  and  Mother  of  Lady  Muray,  and  Lady 
Binny,2  mother  to  Ld.  Hadington3  and  Mr.  Bailie3  which  are 
here  inserted. 

1  Baillie.  3  Binning.  3  See  p.  Ixiii. 


MELLERSTAIN.  333 

INSCRIPTIONS  ON  THE  MONUMENT 

OF  THE  RIGHT  HONOURABLE 

GEORGE    BAILLIE,   OF   JERVISWOOD,   Esqr; 

AND 

LADY    GRISELL    BAILLIE;    AT    MILLERSTAIN. 

(on  the  front] 
Built  by  George  Baillie,  of  Jerviswood,  Esq.,  and  Lady  Grisell  Baillie 

A.D.  1736 

The  Pious  PARENTS  reard  this  Hallowed  Place, 
A  Monument  for  them  and  for  their  race. 
Descendants  make  it  your  successive  cares, 
That  no  Degenerate  Dust  e're  mix  with  Theirs. 

(on  the  right  side) 

H.  S.  E 

Georgius  Baillie, 
De  Jerviswood  Armiger : 
Ex  antiqua  et  honesta  familia  oriundus. 

Vir 

probus,  gravis,  sanctus, 
Civis  optimus,  et  libertatis  publicse  vindex ; 
Nee  minus  in  Anglia,  quam  in  Scotia  nostra, 

Notus  et  celebratus 

Ob  pietatem  in  suos,  liberalitatem  in  egenos, 
Munificentiam  in  hospites,  fidem  in  amicos, 
Justitiam  in  omnes. 

Qui 

In  studiis,  in  negotiis,  in  quotidiano  sermone 
Suavitatem  morum,  severitatemque 
Ita  feliciter  miscuit  ; 
Ut  neque  in  acerbitatem, 
Neque  in  mollitiem 

Procederet. 

Tanta  erat  illi  humanitas, 
Atque  animi  Candor, 
Ut  nemini  malediceret ; 


834  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Neminij  ne  quidem  inimicissimis,  injurias  faceret 
Si  quas  acceperat 
Oblivisceretur. 
Tanta  illi  oris  dignitas, 
Ac  vis  orationis  et  ingenii 

Prope  singularis ; 
Ut  facile  sibi  conciliaret 
Principes  Reipublicae  viros ; 
Quibus  cum  vixit  familiarissime. 
Neque  unquam  aut  amicorum  conviviis, 
Aut  regum  consiliis  interfuit ; 

Quin  maxima, 

Dum  sibi  minimam  sumebat, 
Gratia  valeret  et  authoritate. 
Uxorem  duxerat  GRISELDAM, 
Patricii  Comitis  de  Marchmont  filiam 

Natu  maximam  ; 
Ex  qua  suscepit  filias  duas 

Griseldam  et  Rachaelem. 
Sub  regno  GULIELMI  immortalis  Viri, 
Nee  11011  sub  felicissimo  ANN^E  imperio., 
Amplissimis  functus  est  procurationibus 

Prospere,  integerrime, 

Regnante  GEORGIO  primo, 

In  eorum  ordinem  cooptatus, 

Qui  adminstrandis  rebus  maritimis  praesidebant : 

Delude  unus  ex  aerarii  prefectis  constitutus. 

In  utroque  consessu, 
Munus  suum  curavit  diligenter, 

Explevit,  ornavit. 

Quum  valetudine  paullo  infirmiore  impeditus, 

A  negotiis  publius  se  removisset ; 

Eadem  magnitudine  animi, 

Qua  laboribus  suffecerat, 

Otium  usurpavit. 

Cum  aetatis  annum 

Quartum  &  septuagesirnum  impleverat, 

Ex  vita  discessit 

Inter  lachymas  &  amplexus  suorum, 
VIII.  Id.  August.  MDCCXXXVIII. 


MELLERSTAIN.  335 

(On  the  left  side) 

Here  lieth 

The  right  Honourable  Lady  Grisel  Baillie, 

Wife  of  GEORGE  BAILLIE  of  Jerviswood,  Esquire, 

Eldest  Daughter  of  the  right  honourable  Patrick  Earl  ofMarchmont, 

A  Pattern  to  her  Sex,  an  Honour  to  her  Country. 
She  excelled  in  the  Characters  of  a  Daughter,  a  Wife,  a  Mother. 

While  an  infant, 

At  the  Hazard  of  her  own,  She  preserved  her  Father's  life; 

Who  under  rigorous  Prosecution  of  Arbitrary  Power, 

Sought  Refuge  in  the  close  Confinement  of  a  Tomb, 

Where  he  was  Nightly  Supplyed  with  Necessaries  conveyed  by  her 

With  a  Caution  far  above  her  Years, 

A  Courage  almost  above  her  Sex  ; 

A  Real  Instance  of  the  so  much  celebrated  Roman  Charity. 

She  was  a  shining  Example  of  Conjugal  Affection, 
That  knew  no  Dissention,  felt  no  Decline, 

During  almost  a  Fifty  Years  Union, 
The  Dissolution  of  which  She  survived,  from  Duty  not  Choice  : 

Her  Conduct  as  a  Parent 

Was  Amiable,  Exemplary,  Successfull, 

To  a  Degree  not  well  to  be  exprest, 

Without  mixing  the  Praises  of  the  Dead  with  those  of  the  Living, 
Who  desire  that  all  Praise,  but  of  Her,  should  be  silent. 

At  Different  Times  She  managed  the  Affairs 

Of  her  Father,  her  Husband,  her  Family,  her  Relations, 

With  unwearied  Application,  with  happy  Oeconomy, 

As  distant  from  Avarice  as  from  Prodigality. 

Christian  Piety,  Love  of  her  Country, 

Zeal  for  her  Friends,  Compassion  for  her  Enemies, 

Cheerfulness  of  Spirit,  Pleasantness  of  Conversation, 

Dignity  of  Mind, 

Good  Breeding,  Good  Humour,  Good  Sense, 

Were  the  Daily  Ornaments  of  an  usefull  Life, 

Protracted  by  Providence  to  an  uncommon  Length, 

For  the  Benefit  of  all,  who  fell  within  the  Sphere  of  her  Benevolence. 

Full  of  Years,  and  of  Good  Works, 
She  dyed  on  the  Sixth  Day  of  December,  MDCCXLVI. 

Near  the  End  of  her  Eighty  first  year, 
And  was  Buried  on  her  Birth  Day,  the  25th  of  that  month. 


336          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

About  5  miles  to  the  north  lives  Mr.  Spotswood,  of  Spots- 
wood,1  descended  lineally  from  Arch  Bishop  Spotswood  ;  who 
is  a  great  antiquarian  ;  And  in  the  same  Tract  are  the  two 
Gordons  and  Huntly,  formerly  the  Estates  of  the  Gordon  family 
from  which  they  have  their  Titles. 

From  Mellerstein  I  went  to  the  Abhey  of  Dryburgh  on  the 
Tweed,  about  3  miles  below  Melross ;  They  were  Proemons- 
tratenses  founded  by  Hugh  Moreville  Constable  of  Scotland 
and  his  wife  Beatrix  de  Beau  Camp,  in  the  time  of  David 
the  1st.  James  the  6th  made  Henry  Erskin  younger  son  of 
the  Earl  of  Mar  Lord  of  Dryburgh  afterwards  Lord  Cardross 
and  Ancestor  of  the  Earl  of  Buchan.  It  is  Gothic  Archi- 
tecture of  the  single  narrow  windows ;  There  were  five  in  the 
east  end,  the  front  of  the  galleries  consists  of  single  arches 
and  two  lower  on  each  side  ;  some  of  them  are  adorned  with 
Carvings  of  Stars :  under  the  Galleries  are  windows  turned 
with  an  Arch  that  is  a  very  small  segment  of  a  Circle,  in 
which  are  round  windows  in  six  compartments.  The  arched 
Chapterhouse2  remains,  and  a  fine  kitchen,  with  the  arched 
roof  supported  by  two  Octagon  pillars,  the  sides  of  which  are 
divided  by  angular  members,  and  there  is  a  curious  Chimney 
piece,  the  Chimney  being  built  within  the  room,  all  of  hewn 
stone  :  The  site  of  the  hall  remains  on  one  side  of  it,  and  the 
Abbott's  grand  room  and  appartments  at  one  end. 

There  are  many  beautifull  Glyns  in  this  part,  from  which 
several  streams  empty  themselves  into  the  Tweed. 

On  the  26th  I  left  Mellerstain  and  came  four  miles  to 
Melross,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Tweed.  Here  St.  David 
founded  an  Abbey  of  Cistercians  in  1136.  It  was  much 
destroyed  by  Richard  the  2d  and  by  Edward  the  2d.  James 
Douglas  was  Commendator  at  the  Reformation,  who  pre- 
served the  Archives  now  in  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Moreton. 
Thomas  Lord  Binning  was  made  Earl  of  Melross  in  1619. 
Nothing  remains  of  this  Abbey  but  the  magnificent  Church. 
No  part  of  which  is  of  the  time  of  King  David.  The  arch  of 
the  northern  isle  is  very  narrow  and  pointed,  the  south  isle  is 
in  the  same  taste  but  wider,  This  body  consists  only  of  four 

1  Spottiswode. 

2  See  Morton's  Monastic  Annals  of  Teviotdale,  p.  323. 


MELROSE.  337 

arches,  it  seems  to  have  been  a  design  for  a  small  Church 
after  it  was  first  destroyed,  and  the  Design  altered  between 
the  building  of  the  North  and  South  isles,  and  to  these  isles, 
it  appears,  there  were  walls  on  each  side  so  as  to  enclose  the 
Choir,  and  what  was  to  have  been  the  Entrance  seems  to  have 
been  small  with  a  Gallery  over  it  to  this  which  seems  to  have 
been  afterwards  designed  to  be  the  Quire  ;  and  doubtless  there 
were  arches  to  the  West  to  form  a  body  corresponding  to 
this  ;  and  the  Skreen  might  be  rebuilt  afterwards  as  it  is  in  a 
more  delicate  design. 

This  Church  I  suppose  to  have  been  ruined  when  the  Abbey 
was  a  second  time  destroyed  :  For  nothing  appears  so  old  as 
the  time  of  King  David.  The  windows  over  the  Arches  in 
the  body  were  small  in  a  new  Gothic  style,  and  within  the 
opening,  between  the  Gallery  and  the  body,  it  is  now  as  a 
window  with  a  flat  arch,  but  seems  to  have  been  divided  into 
two  by  a  pillar  :  They  afterwards  probably  designed  a  tran- 
sept, The  north  part  of  which  is  built  with  single  Gothic 
windows,  and  seems  to  have  been  finished  before  the  south 
part  of  the  transept  was  executed  :  when  another  design  was 
probably  conceived,  which  was  to  build  Chapels  to  the  south 
side  of  the  old  isle,  with  very  fine  Gothic  windows.  Nine  of 
which  are  standing,  and  it  is  supposed  that  there  were  three 
more  to  the  West,  to  make  the  south  transept  in  the  same 
style,  with  a  most  beautiful  Gothic  window  and  two  chapels 
to  the  east  of  it,  one  with  the  window  to  the  east,  the  other  to 
the  south  if  I  do  not  mistake,  for  another  Chapel  is  added  to 
the  east  of  the  northern  Chapel,  with  a  fine  Gothic  window  to 
the  east,  so  that  in  the  east  part  of  the  Church,  beyond  it 
there  is  only  one  extreme  fine  Gothic  window  facing  to  the 
south  as  there  is  on  the  other  side  to  the  north,  in  which  style 
is  the  most  Magnificent  Gothic  east  window,  of  a  very  light 
architecture  and  in  the  highest  Gothic  taste  of  Henry  6th  the 
north  side  beyond  the  transept  corresponding  to  the  south 
side.  As  to  the  particular  architecture  of  this  last  addition, 
beginning  with  the  Chapels  to  the  South  of  the  old  isles,  they 
were  divided  by  low  walls  of  hewn  stone,  with  windows  or 
openings  in  each,  that  people  through  those  windows  might 
see  the  Elevation  of  the  host :  There  are  ornamental  buttresses 

Y 


338          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

between  the  windows  from  which  half  arches  are  turned  which 
rest  against  pillars  built  on  the  wall  of  the  old  isles  from 
which  such  another  arch  is  turned  to  the  body,  of  the  Church, 
these  buttresses  have  Niches  in  them,  one,  if  I  mistake  not,  in 
each  ;  in  all  which  were  Statues,  and  these  buttresses  are  finely 
adorned  with  carved  work  and  with  Statues  of  men  and 
women  on  each  side  ;  among  those  remaining  are  St.  Andrew, 
and  next  to  it  the  Virgin  with  our  Saviour  in  her  arms ;  The 
Drapery  is  very  fine,  and  it  is  highly  ornamented  with 
Sculpture,  on  the  lowest  buttress  are  the  Arms  of  Scotland 
supported  by  two  Unicorns,  the  bottom  of  the  escutcheon 
resting  on  their  knees,  above  it  is  I.  Q.  and  under  the  arms 
1505.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  set  up  on  the  Marriage  of 
James  IV.  which  was  settled  here  by  Bishop  Fox. 

In  one  part  are  the  Arms  of  the  Abbey  a  Mail  or  hammer 
and  a  Rose,  which  is  a  poor  rebus,  the  place  seeming  to  have 
its  name  from  the  hill  over  it  Mul  (bare)  Ross  (a  head  or  hill). 
There  are  also  many  arms  about  the  Windows  :  There  is  a 
fine  door  and  window  at  the  south  end  of  the  transept,  over 
the  door  is  a  Lyon  Rampant,  and  above  is  St.  John  with 
three  disciples  on  each  side  as  Ornaments  of  Sculpture  to  the 
arch  of  the  door.  To  St.  John's  Statue  is  this  inscription,  the 
Statue  being  represented  as  looking  up.  Ecce  filius  Dei : 
For  over  the  window  and  on  each  side  of  the  arch  are  our 
Saviour  and  his  disciples  likewise  in  alto  relievo.  There  are 
angular  buttresses  on  each  side,  in  each  of  which  if  I  mistake 
not  are  two  Niches.  In  one  a  Monk  is  in  relief  at  the  bottom 
with  this  inscription  Passus  e.  q.  ipse  voluit.  To  another  in 
the  same  situation  is  this  inscription.  Cu  venit  Jes.  Seq. 
Cessabit  umbra.  About  the  windows  of  the  Chapels  which 
face  to  the  south  and  east  are  reliefs  of  Musitians  with  all 
kinds  of  instruments,  and  women  with  their  Veils  probably  to 
represent  Vocal  Music. 

On  each  side  of  the  east  end  is  a  fine  window  divided  into 
three  parts,  very  beautifull,  and  exactly  in  the  same  style  as 
the  east  window,  which  seemed  to  me  to  be  in  a  lighter  and 
finer  style  than  those  of  Henry  the  Gth's  Chapels  at  Cambridge 
&c. :  It  is  divided  into  four  parts.  On  the  top  of  it  is  cut  in 
relief  a  man  with  a  beard,  and  a  globe  on  his  left  hand  resting 


MELROSE.  339 

on  his  knee,  and  a  young  man  on  his  right  hand,  both  with 
Crowns  on  their  heads.  It  is  supposed  there  was  a  Dove  and 
that  it  is  a  representation  of  the  Trinity  :  on  each  side  of  the 
window  in  angular  pilasters  are  several  niches  the  tops  of  which 
are  adorned  with  reliefs  of  animals,  and  the  bottoms  with  two 
grotesque  figures  of  men.  This  window  is  31  feet  high  15£ 
broad,  the  south  window  24  high  &  16  broad. 

As  to  the  inside  of  the  Church,  in  the  new  Chapels  to  the 
south  are  niches  for  placing  the  Elements  for  the  service  of  the 
Altar,  which  are  beautifully  adorned  with  Sculpture.  The 
arch  of  the  South  end  of  the  Transept  is  entire;  and  in  a 
round  tower  are  geometrical  stairs ;  in  which  the  angles  are 
taken  off  under  the  steps  so  that  it  is  a  smooth  surface  all 
round  of  which  they  make  great  account ;  though  only  done 
by  taking  off'  the  Angles  of  the  stairs  which  form  the  steps. 

Over  the  door  is  this  inscription 

So  gages  the  Compass  even  about 
So  Truth  and  Laute  do  but  doubt 
Behold  to  the  End  John  Murdo 

On  the  south  side  of  the  door  the  following  lines  x 
John  Murdo  sumtym  callit  was  I, 
And  born  in  Parysse  certainly ; 
And  had  in  keeping  all  Mason  Work, 
Of  Santandroys  the  hye  Kirk, 
Of  Glasgu,  Melros,  and  Pasloy, 
Of  Niddisdayl  and  of  Galway. 
Pray  to  God  and  Mari  baith, 
And  sweet  St.  John  keep  this  holy  Kirk  from  Skaith. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  transept  is  a  door  from  the  Abbot's 
lodgings,  and  to  the  east  of  it  another,  to  an  arched  place 
called  the  Wax  Cellar  where  'tis  supposed  they  kept  the  tapers 
for  the  Church.  Above  this  a  private  Vault  was  discovered  to 
which  the  only  entrance  was  by  taking  up  the  first  step  of  the 
Stairs  leading  to  the  Abbot's  house,  where  without  doubt  they 
deposited  their  valuable  effects  in  time  of  Danger.  On  the 
west  side  of  the  transept  is  the  Statue  of  St.  Peter,  with  a 

1  See  note  i,  p.  50. 


340          TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

book  in  his  right  hand,  and  two  keys  in  his  left,  and  on  the 
south  side  St.  Paul  with  the  sword. 

Over  the  middle  of  the  transept  was  the  grand  tower,  one 
side  of  which  only  remains  with  three  or  four  single  windows 
in  it.  The  tradition  is  that  the  high  altar  was  isolated  and 
just  to  the  east  of  the  tower :  and  it  seems  as  if  there  was 
another  altar  at  the  east  end,  if  so  be  there  was  such  an  altar 
as  they  suppose  where  the  ground  is  certainly  higher,  but  may 
be  occasioned  by  some  ruins.  What  remains  of  the  Church  is 
258  feet  long.  The  Transept  is  137  feet  6  in.  long.  The 
Tower  from  its  foundation  is  75  feet  high.  It  is  computed 
that  there  are  now  68  niches  remaining  for  Statues. 

The  ornamental  trestle  arches  of  the  Cloyster  in  the  wall  of 
the  Church  are  remaining,  next  to  the  door  is  one  beautifully 
adorned  with  a  gothic  arch  and  ornaments  in  very  high  taste 
over  the  Stone  for  holy  water :  and  another  at  the  other  end 
answering  to  it,  and  wrought  with  a  beautifull  simplicity ;  The 
Masonry  of  these  and  of  the  Transept  and  east  end  is  exceed- 
ing good  in  hewn  stone.  On  the  north  wall  of  the  Church 
are  visible  marks  of  fire,  the  stones  having  cracked  and 
flown :  The  Capitals  of  all  the  pillars  are  of  a  running  single 
foliage. 

Many  great  persons  were  buried  here.  As  Alexander  the  2d 
at  the  high  altar.  S.  Waldeons  Abbott  of  the  Monastery  and 
son  of  King  David.  Many  of  the  Douglass  family,  and  par- 
ticularly James  who  was  General  &  died  in  the  battle  which 
he  gained  on  the  9th  August  1388  at  Otterburn  ag3*  Sir 
Henry  Piercy  Sirnamed  Hotspur  who  was  afterwards  Earl  of 
Northumberland.  David  Fletcher  several  years  Minister  here, 
and  at  the  restoration  made  Bishop  of  Argyle. 

Great  part  of  the  Abbey  is  said  to  have  been  demolished  in 
the  time  of  Henry  the  8th  (and  probably  was  never  repaired) 
by  Ralph  Ivers1  and  Sir  Bryan  Laton1  who  had  got  a  grant  of 
the  Mers  and  Tiviotdale  to  be  held  of  England.  But  Archi- 
bald Earl  of  Angus  defeated  them  on  Ancrum  Muir.  Since 
the  Reformation  the  materials  have  been  taken  away  for 
several  buildings ;  and  in  the  body  of  the  Church  now  used  for 
service,  an  arch  has  been  turned  on  the  inner  South  wall,  and 
1  Sir  Ralph  Evers  and  Sir  Bryan  Latoun,  1544. 


MELROSE.  341 

on  a  new  well  built  wall  to  the  north  within  the  northern 
pillars,  and  makes  a  most  miserable  appearance. 

The  Chronicle  of  Melross  from  735  to  1270  published  by 
Dr.  Gale  in  1684  is  thought  to  have  been  begun  by  the  English 
when  they  had  possession  of  the  Monastery  and  is  a  sort  of  a 
Continuation  of  Bede's  history  :  Many  buildings  belonged  to 
the  Convent,  the  enclosure  of  which  was  they  say  a  mile  round, 
and  they  have  a  strange  story  that  a  bakehouse  with  ovens  one 
over  another  as  high  as  the  tower  of  the  Church  and  of  hewn 
stone  was  destroyed  about  sixty  years  agoe.  It  is  said  several 
Gentlemen  in  order  to  retire  from  the  world  in  the  times  of 
Popery  built  themselves  little  houses  near  the  Abbey. 

A  mile  and  a  half  to  the  East,  at  old  Melross,  was  a  Monas- 
tery of  the  Culdees  supposed  to  be  founded  in  the  6th  century 
by  Columbus  or  Aidan,  according  to  Bede  St.  Cuthbert  in  643 
was  the  3d  Abbot,  and  went  afterwards  to  Lendisfarne :  It  is 
also  mentioned  by  Nennius  in  the  9th  Century :  Foundations  of 
the  enclosure  have  been  found  :  Where  the  Church  was  situated 
is  called  Chapel  Know  or  Knole.  But  'tis  supposed  that  there 
were  not  much  buildings  about  it,  as  Bede  acquaints  us  that 
the  Churches  were  of  oak  and  thatched  with  reeds :  Backer's 
Cross  near  adjoining  is  supposed  to  be  Beckefs  Cross. 

A  mile  to  the  west  of  Melross  is  Newstead  famous  for 
Masons,  probably  the  descendants  of  those  who  built  the 
Abbey.  Here  they  mention  Red  Abbey  Steed,  and  suppose  it 
was  an  Abbey :  and  they  have  found  there  foundations  of 
houses,  a  great  deal  of  lead,  and  several  seals  I  suppose  of  the 
Middle  ages :  There  was  a  bridge  over  the  Tweed  at  this  place, 
the  ruins  of  which  are  seen,  Gordon1  mentions  curious  octagon 
pillars  of  it  hollow  in  the  middle,  which  are  now  entirely 
destroyed,  as  I  was  informed.  Many  Roman  coins  have  been 
found  there. 

To  the  south  of  Melross  are  three  remarkable  summits  of 
Eildon  Hill :  It  is  said  that  on  the  top  of  the  north  east  hill 
is  a  Roman  Camp  with  two  fossees  a  mile  and  a  half  in  Circum- 
ference 4  entrances  and  a  prsetorium,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
middle  summit  is  a  place  called  Bourjo,  of  which  there  is  a 
tradition  that  the  Druids  sacrificed  in  the  Grove  of  Oaks  which 
1  See  Gordon's  Itinerariwn  Sept.  1727,  Plate  64,  p.  1 66. 


342  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


is  encompassed  with  a  fossee,  and  there  is  a  wall  to  it  from  the 
east  &  west.  From  the  Camp  a  line  is  drawn  two  miles  to  the 
west  to  another  Camp  on  the  top  of  Cold  street  hill  fortified  in 
the  same  manner,  and  with  several  outworks.  These,  with  that 
in  Darnwick  Ground,  called  Castle  Steed,  form  a  triangle,  and 
the  two  last  might  be  Castra  Exploratum.  To  the  south  west 
of  Eildon  Hill  is  a  Military  way,  and  it  is  said  there  was  a 
military  Station  at  JGppilaw,1  it  goes  through  Halidon2  park 
and  in  some  places  through  marshes ;  it  had  a  communication 
with  Coldshields,  and  with  a  Camp  on  the  other  side  of  Tweed 
called  the  Rink.  Towards  Darnwick  at  Skinner  or  Skirmish 
hill  was  a  battle  fought  the  18th  July  1520  between  the 
parties  who  wanted  either  to  keep  or  get  possession  of 
James  5th. 

Taking  the  north  side  of  the  river  on  a  hill  to  the  west 
of  Drygrange  is  a  british  Camp;  on  a  hill  near  Gattonside 
another,  as  well  as  opposite  to  Newstead  which  is  called  Chertes 
Know.  Near  Easter  Loughe  is  a  fine  place  called  the  nameless 
Den,  where  on  the  side  of  the  bray  are  some  petrifications 
which  are  washed  down  to  the  river  by  the  rains,  they  are  of 
the  substance  of  fine  Marie :  near  Leeder  there  has  been  a 
Camp ;  and  near  Clackmae  is  another  with  three  fossees — 
called  ridge  walls — and  near  it  another  with  a  single  fossee 
called  Cherterlie,  from  this  there  is  a  military  road  to  the 
south,  another  to  the  north  going  to  Chapel  Muir  and  Blainslie 
to  Cheildhelles  Chapel.  A  mile  south  of  ridge  wall  is  another 
small  camp  called  Brownhill.  All  which  camps  plainly  show 
that  this  has  been  a  great  scene  of  action  between  the  English 
&  Scotch  when  thus  invaded  each  other  by  crossing  the  great 
natural  Barriers  the  Tweed,  &  the  Teviot. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXXIII. 

ALNEWICK,  NORTHUMBERLAND,  Sepr.  zgth  1760. 
DEAR  SISTER, — At  Melross  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  Baillie,  and 
went  on  for  Selkirk  four  miles,  I  saw  up  the  small  river  Gala, 

1  Kiplaw.  -  Haliedean. 


SELKIRK.  343 

a  place  which  has  its  name  from  it,  called  Galashiels.  This  is 
a  famous  place  for  weaving  of  linnen.  I  came  on  a  little 
eminence  near  a  mile  from  Melross  to  the  remains  of  a  Camp 
called  Castle  Hed  ;  in  some  parts  a  double  fossee  is  seen  :  From 
it,  it  is  said  there  is  a  military  road  leading  to  Tweed  at  the 
Nether  Barnfoord  with  a  deep  ditch  on  each  side :  It  is  also 
said  that  a  mile  to  the  south  of  it  near  Huntley  wood  is 
another  large  camp. 

I  turned  soon  to  the  south  and  travelled  near  the  river 
. -  .  .  1  which  falls  into  the  Tweed  a  little  lower,  to  the  east 
of  which  stands  Selkirk  a  poor  small  town :  About  three 
miles  above  it  two  rivers  unite,  the  north  part2  rises  out  of 
Lough  of  Low3  and  St.  Mary's  Lough  :  The  other  called  the 
Etterick  rises  to  the  south  of  it  which  gives  name  to  the  forrest 
of  Etterick,  and  both  of  them  rise  towards  Moffat. 

On  the  other  side  of  those  mountains  we  passed  by,  out  of 
which  the  river  Anan  rises.  K.  David  when  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland began  to  found  an  Abbey  here,  but  the  place  not  being 
convenient  for  an  Abbey  he  removed  it  to  Roxburgh,  as  men- 
tioned before,  and  afterwards  when  he  was  King  to  Kelso.  The 
tradition  is,  that  they  could  not  get  stones,  and  being  too  cold, 
they  removed  or  sold  the  materials,  and  from  this  say  the 
vulgar,  it  was  called  Selkirk,  though  I  imagined  it  was  rather 
from  being  the  Kirk  of  the  Cell.  They  pretend  to  show  some 
old  foundations  of  it  about  the  present  parish  Church. 

I  had  designed  to  have  gone  ten  miles  further  across  the 
mountains  to  Peebles  in  order  to  find  the  Coria  or  Caria  Dam- 
niorum  placed  22  miles  from  Coria  Ottadenorum  supposed  to 
be  near  Jedburgh,  The  first  it  is  conjectured  was  between  Lyne 
kirk  north  west  of  Peebles  and  Kirkurd;  and  at  Lyne  a 
Roman  Camp  is  placed  in  Dorrets  map  of  Scotland  ;  but  the 
weather  was  so  bad  that  I  proceeded  in  my  way  to  England. 

At  Peebles  there  was  a  Monastery  of  Red  friers  called  the 
Ministry  or  Cross  Church  founded  by  Alexander  3d  in  1257. 

On  the  27th  I  set  out  eastward  and  going  over  disagreeable 

hills,  came  in  seven  miles  to  the  great  road  like  a  turnpike  from 

Jedburgh  by  Melross  to  Edingburgh.     We  came  to  it  at  An- 

crum  the  seat  of  Sir  ...  Scot.     To  the  east  of  it  near  the 

1  Ettrick.  2  Yarrow.  3  Loch  of  the  Lowes. 


344  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

road,  are  some  remains  of  a  fortification :  A  little  below  it  the 
river  .  .  .  a  falls  into  the  Tiviot,  I  passed  the  first  river  and 
near  the  confluence  on  a  rising  ground  are  some  remains  of 
walls,  which  are  called  the  Mantle  Waes.  It  may  be  about 
100  yards  broad  from  east  to  west  and  two  hundred  long,  the 
present  walls  (of  which  a  good  part  remains  to  the  east  and 
north)  are  built  with  buttresses,  and  I  do  not  take  them  to  be 
very  old  : 

A  mile  from  it  on  the  Tiviot  is  a  place  called  Chester  where 
there  might  be  a  Camp,  though  I  could  not  hear  of  any  remains. 
This  Mantle  Waies  or  Walls  I  take  to  be  Coria  Ottadenorum 
or  Gadenorum.  And  there  is  a  wood  near  called  the  Wheel 
Causeway,  and  they  say  there  are  signs  of  a  Roman  Road  in 
three  several  places.  Having  crossed  the  Teviot  on  a  bridge,  I 
came  in  two  miles  to  Jedburgh,  seeing  on  the  other  side  .  .  .  2 
Mr.  Scots  a  fine  situation  with  beautifull  fields  and  plantations. 

Jedburgh  is  prettily  situated  between  the  hills  on  the  river 
Jed ;  There  are  two  tolerable  streets  in  it,  but  though  they 
had  formerly  some  of  the  linnen  and  woollen  manufactures, 
they  are  now  quite  decayed.  Here  was  an  Abbey  of  Cannons 
Regular  of  St.  Austin  founded  by  K.  David.  There  are  great 
remains  of  the  Church,  and  in  the  west  end  of  the  Quire,  and 
the  isles  of  each  side  are  remains  of  two  arches,  as  well  as  of 
two  more  to  the  transept,  they  are  built  on  pillars  six  feet  in 
diameter  with  the  rude  Saxon  Capitals,  and  over  them  is  a 
gallery  with  an  arch  divided  into  two  parts  by  small  pillars  of 
the  same  kind,  which  show  how  verv  low  architecture  was  in 

•/ 

those  times  ;  To  the  east  of  these  are  single  Gothic  windows, 
with  an  arch  on  each  side  of  them  in  the  Gallery,  and  the  same 
over  them. 

There  are  nine  arches  in  the  body  of  the  Church  with  a  light 
arch  over  each  divided  into  two  by  a  light  pillar  which  supports 
the  two  inner  arches,  over  each  of  them  is  a  window  with  a 
small  arch  and  a  false  arch  on  each  side  of  it.  The  west  door 
is  very  fine  Saxon  work,  consisting  of  five  large  and  five  smaller 
pillars  ;  and  to  the  south  leading  to  the  Cloyster  is  a  Saxon 
door  with  five  pillars  to  it.  There  is  a  tower  in  the  middle 
with  3  windows  of  trestle  arches  on  each  side.  The  Groyn 
1  Ale  Water.  -  Blank  in  the  MS. 


JEDBURGH.  345 

Arch  in  the  middle  lately  fell  in :  The  pillars  consist  of  eight 
pilasters  which  are  a  segment  of  a  circle,  with  a  fillet  down  the 
middle  of  them  :  The  upper  pillars  are  composed  only  of  four  : 
It  is  one  of  the  most  compleat  and  grand  Churches1  in  Scotland: 
the  site  of  the  Cloyster  remains  ;  and  to  the  south  of  the  west 
end  of  the  Church  were  the  Abbots  lodgings  built  on  the  water. 

This  Abbey  was  made  a  temporal  Lordship  in  favour  of  Sir 
Andw  Kerr  Ancestor2  of  the  Marquis  of  Lothian.  One  would 
imagine  that  there  had  been  a  Nunnery  here,  for  some  very  old 
orchards  to  the  east  of  the  Church  are  called  the  Ladies  yards 
as  some  fields  to  the  south  of  the  west  end  of  the  Town  are 
called  the  friars  yards,  where  part  of  the  old  Enclosures  are  seen. 
It  was  a  Monastery  of  Observantines  founded  by  the  Town 
in  1513  Adam  Abel  was  a  monk  here  who  writ  the  Scotch 
history  to  1536  in  Latin,  part  of  which  was  printed  at  Rome. 

Jedburgh  is  a  Royal  Borough,  here  are  Independents,  Came- 
ronians,  &  Nonjurors,  who  have  their  several  Meetings  :  and  as 
they  could  not  have  their  own  choice  on  a  vacancy,  they  built  a 
Church,  brought  the  Minister  they  would  have  chosen,  who  was 
fixed  in  a  parish  and  allow  him  £].6Q  a  year ;  so  that  the 
Established  Minister  has  but  150  hearers,  out  of  near  5000 
Souls  belonging  to  the  parish  in  the  town  and  Country :  This 
is  a  fine  place  for  Fruit  particularly  apples  and  pears,  of  which 
they  send  to  neighbouring  towns  to  the  value  of  ^300  a  year. 

I  left  Jedburgh  in  the  afternoon,  and  came  in  two  miles  to 
Creiling  hall  on  a  rivulet  which  falls  into  the  Jed,  and  in  two 
more  to  Setford3  Castle,  near  such  another  rivlet ;  This  building 
consists  of  a  grand  apartment  on  each  floor  and  a  smaller  in  a 
return  adjoyning  to  it :  In  another  mile  we  came  to  Merbo  hill 
on  a  larger  rivulet  and  in  an  open  plain,  and  going  on  we  passed 
by  the  rise  of  the  River  Bowman,  and  ascended  to  Yetham  the 
last  village  in  Scotland  :  And  about  a  mile  from  it  came  into 
England  having  that  river  to  the  right,  being  I  believe  not 
above  three  miles  from  that  place,  where  we  had  entered  Scot- 
land to  the  west  of  Carram  and  so  took  leave  of  Scotland,  this 
being  the  Shire  of  Roxborough  which  includes  Tiviotdale  and 
also  Liddesdale  in  which  I  had  been,  and  extends  very  near  to 

1  See  Jeffrey's  Hist  and  A ntiq.  of  Roxburghshire,  1864. 

2  See  p.  329.  3  Cessford.  4  Yetholm.  *  Carham. 


346  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

Netherby  (at  which  place  I  was)  in  Cumberland :  Jedburgh 
being  the  town  for  the  Sheriff's  Deputy  to  attend  in,  and  hold 
his  Courts  for  that  Shire. — I  am,  &c. 


LETTER  LXXIV. 

ROTHBURY  IN  NORTHUMBERLAND,  Sept.  ^Oth  1760. 

DEAR  SISTER, — On  the  22d  of  September  I  came  to  Berwick 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Tweede  which  is  a  town  and  County 
extending  on  the  north  side  of  Tweed  about  three  miles,  and  as 
I  apprehend  every  way  as  far  as  the  parish  of  Berwick.  It 
stands  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tweed  the  Frieda  of  the  New 
Map.  It  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tweed  and  is  very  finely 
situated,  it  was  first  given  in  ransom  for  K.  William  of 
Scotland  to  Henry  2d,  and  was  afterwards  often  taken  and 
retaken.  It  formerly  stood  on  an  eminence  within  the  present 
rampart,  which  is  now  called  the  Castle ;  The  old  Castle  as  the 
Citadel  without  the  walls  being  doubtless  joyned  to  it,  which 
was  very  strong  in  its  natural  situation.  There  were  two  waies 
to  it,  and  a  wall  down  to  the  river,  which  seems  to  have  been 
built  with  steps  down  the  top  of  it  like  the  walls  of  Antioch. 

The  town  is  now  a  modern  fortification,  with  two  Bastions  to 
the  north,  and  Queen  Elizth  built  a  fine  bridge  here  of  fifteen 
arches :  I  could  get  no  accfc  of  any  of  the  Monasteries  of  this 
place,  which  were  the  red  friars  founded  by  a  Scotch  King.  The 
Dominicans  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tweed  founded  by  Alexr  2d  in 
1230 :  A  parliament  was  held  in  this  Convent  by  Edward  the  first 
to  determine  the  right  of  the  crown  between  Bruce  and  Baliol. 

There  were  also  Franciscans,  and  Bernardine  Nuns  founded 
by  David  1st,  but  Robert  3d  gave  their  possessions  in  Scotland 
to  the  Abbey  of  Dryburgh  on  ace*  of  their  attachment  to  the 
English :  The  Parish  Church  is  a  handsome  Gothic  fabric, 
though  somewhat  singular  and  seems  to  have  been  built  so  late 
as  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth  or  James  1st.  Opposite  to  it 
is  a  handsome  barrack  and  Store  houses  built  round  a  Court. 

They  have  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  chief  street  a  very 
beautifull  town  house  and  Market  house  of  free  stone.  The 


BERWICK,  NORHAM.  347 

lower  part  is  in  the  rustic  Channel  style,  over  which  there  is  a 
first  floor  and  an  Attick  story ;  a  Tuscan  portico  in  front,  and 
a  tower  over  it  crowned  with  a  spire :  The  two  stories  of  the 
tower  are  of  the  Doric,  and  Ionic  orders,  all  exceeding  good 
architecture :  They  have  a  good  quay,  and  build  small  ships 
here.  The  export  is  chiefly  Salmon  and  Corn ;  They  have 
plenty  of  Coal  about  four  miles  from  the  town. 

I  came  to  the  other  side  commonly  reckoned  in  Northumber- 
land, but  for  about  two  miles  south  is  within  the  Bishoprick 
and  County  of  Durham,  which  extends  to  the  west,  and  not 
observed  in  Maps. 

I  shall  here  give  some  ace*  of  the  Kingdom  of  Northumber- 
land. It  was  subjected  to  the  Saxons  by  Osca  brother  of 
Hengist,  was  under  the  Danes  who  did  homage  to  the  Kings 
of  Kent.  The  Kingdom  of  Bernicia  between  Trent  and  the 
Frith  of  Forth  was  subject  to  the  Kings  of  Northumberland, 
and  when  this  Kingdom  came  to  an  end,  all  to  the  South  of 
Tweed  became  subject  to  Scotland :  But  Northumberland  was 
given  to  Egbert  King  of  the  North  Cumbrians,  and  Eanred 
their  King  paid  him  tribute :  The  Danes  had  it  under  Alfred, 
who  were  dispossessed  by  Athelstane.  Though  the  people 
made  Eitric  the  Dane  their  King :  From  this  time  they  were 
Earls ;  and  the  Peircies  came  to  be  the  Earls  of  Northumber- 
land, They  were  descended  from  the  Earls  of  Brabant,  the 
true  offspring  of  Charlemagne  who  were  called  Percies  when 
Jocelyne  the  younger  son  of  Godfrey  Duke  of  Brabant  married 
Agnes  sole  heir  of  William  Percie,  whose  great  grandfather 
came  into  England  with  William  the  Conqueror. 

I  went  on  the  23d  three  miles  in  the  turnpike  road  to  the 
west,  and  leaving  it  came  two  miles  to  the  west  north  west  to 
Norham  or  Northam,  of-  old,  called  Ubbanford ;  it  belongs  to 
the  See  of  Durham,  Egfrid  Bishop  of  Lindisfarne  built  the 
town  and  Church ;  the  next  Bishop  Ralph  built  the  Castle  a 
little  to  the  east  of  the  town  on  an  eminence  over  the  river. 
The  wall  round  it  takes  in  a  pretty  large  compass :  Over  the 
river  is  a  ruined  building,  which  they  say  was  the  Church. 
The  old  castle  part  is  to  the  east,  it  is  an  oblong  square  build- 
ing, in  which  there  are  two  rooms  sixty  feet  long,  one  is  fifteen 
wide  the  other  about  twenty  with  vaults  under  them,  there 


348 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


were  four  stories,  and  the  walls  seem  to  be  about  seventy  feet 
high,  and  are  twelve  feet  thick,  over  a  door  are  remains  of 
three  Coats  of  Arms.  This  Castle  is  built  of  hewn  free  stone. 

The  Church  is  at  the  west  end  of  the  town.  The  east  end 
is  very  old,  on  the  north  side  are  small  arched  windows  with 
members  over  the  arches,  and  from  them  a  Water  table  is 
carried  along  the  whole  length  of  the  building ;  on  the  south 
side  the  Arches  of  the  windows  are  supported  by  a  Corinthian 
pillar  on  each  side  with  a  base  and  plinth,  and  only  four  single 
leaves  round  them  and  seem  to  be  very  old.  The  entablature  is 
adorned  with  four  heads  in  the  lower  member  and  four  less  in 
the  member  over  each  window.  The  south  side  of  the  body 
consists  of  five  or  six  arches  supported  by  round  pillars  with 
octagon  capitals,  and  four  single  leaves  on  each  side  with  the 
top  of  a  leaf  appearing  between  them  above,  and  betwixt  the 
bottom  of  the  leaves  is  a  Circle  formed  from  the  outer  line  and 
another  within  them.  The  former  seems  to  be  the  old  Church 
built  by  Egfrid,  in  which  Ceolwolph  King  of  Northumberland 
who  became  a  Monk  at  Lindisfarne,  was  buried,  to  whom  Bede 
dedicates  his  Ecclesiastical  history.  And  when  the  Danes  had 
destroyed  the  holy  island,  the  body  of  St.  Cuthbert  Bishop  of 
that  place  was  deposited  here.  And  where  on  this  Account 
and  St.  Ceolwolph's  great  devotion  was  paid  to  the  place,  it  is 
probable  the  body  of  the  Church  was  built,  which  has  been  in 
part  destroyed.  Over  the  door  is  this  inscription.  This  Church 
was  repaired  by  the  Parichinaris  of  Norham  Maister  Patrick 
Wait  being  preacher  there  Anno  1617. 

We  went  on  in  this  turnpike  road  which  comes  within  half 
a  mile  of  this  town.  At  Ribby  near  about  200  years  agoe 
were  found  the  Shedds  of  a  Knights  belt  and  the  hilt  of  a 
sword,  which  were  given  to  Bishop  .  .  ,x 

We  came  in  two  miles  to  Wesel2  bridge  over  the  Till,  whicli 
has  its  name  from  Wesel2  house  on  an  eminence  over  it ;  a  little 
below  which  it  falls  into  the  Tweed :  The  bridge  here  consists 
of  one  arch  90  feet  and  eight  inches  wide. 

From  Flodden  I  saw  at  a  small  distance  Etal,  of  old  the  seat 
of  the  Manners^  from  whom  the  Duke  of  Rutland's  family  is 
descended ;  Here  is  a  wooden  bridge  on  stone  piers,  near  Etal 
1  Blank  in  the  MS.  2  Twizell. 


FLODDEN.  349 

is  Ford  Castle,  Mr.  Carrs  where  there  is  a  stone  bridge  over  the 
Till,  both  fine  situations.  Two  miles  more  brought  us  to 
Cornhill,  a  considerable  village  very  near  the  Tweed  : 

They  have  here  a  water  like  that  of  Epsom  Wells,  from  which 
they  extract  a  Salt ;  it  is  esteemed  good  in  Nopinlick  and  Scor- 
butic disorders :  Near  it  is  a  cold  bath,  which  they  use  much 
when  they  drink  the  water.  This  parish  is  in  Northumberland. 

From  this  place  I  went  three  miles  by  Brankeston  where 
there  is  a  thatched  Church,  to  Flodden  Field,  famous  for  the 
battle  with  James  the  4th  (who  being  drawn  in  by  the  French, 
that  made  use  of  two  or  three  of  his  own  subjects  as  tools,  to 
invade  England,  when  Henry  the  8th  lay  before  Tournay) ; 
The  Earl  of  Surry  was  sent  against  them  as  the  Scotch  historians 
say  with  26,000  men,  the  Scotch  not  above  7000.  Thomas 
Lord  Howard  led  the  van,  Sir  Edward  his  brother  one  of  the 
wings,  Lord  Dacres,  and  Clifford,  and  Sir  Edward  Stanley  the 
rear  :  The  van  and  one  of  the  wings  came  over  by  Wesel  bridge, 
the  rear  by  Mylfield  ford  above  Ford  Castle :  The  Scotch  were 
divided  into  four  parts,  one  of  which  was  a  Corps  of  reserve. 

The  King  engaged  in  the  middle :  They  were  drawn  up 
first  on  a  hill  near  the  King^s  Seat,  but  seeing  the  English 
coming  towards  Brankeston  and  apprehending  they  wanted  to 
cut  off'  the  rear  from  the  Camp,  they  moved  to  the  hill  nearer 
to  the  village,  and  came  down  to  them  in  the  valley  at  the 
well.  In  the  first  onset,  "'tis  said  the  English  were  broke,  but 
the  Highlanders  coming  on  without  order  they  began  to  rally 
were  supported  and  the  battle  was  very  bloody ;  there  was  a 
gentle  rising  ground  with  a  little  hollow  to  the  south  of  this. 
The  rear  of  the  English  who  passed  at  Mylfield,  it  is  supposed, 
either  crossed  over  the  hill  to  the  north  or  came  round  the  end 
of  it,  which  drew  the  battle  more  towards  that  part;  the 
Scotch  still  fighting  most  bravely,  though  the  Corps  of  reserve 
under  Lord  Hume  it  is  said  could  get  no  word  of  command 
from  him  to  engage.  They  fought  till  the  night  separated 
them,  5000  were  killed  on  each  side,  but  of  the  Scotch  a  great 
number  of  the  flower  of  their  Nobility. 

The  English  did  not  know  they  were  Conquerors,  till  Lord 
Dacres  went  next  morning  on  the  field  of  Battle,  saw  their 
artillery,  and  the  Dead  bodies  not  stripped. 


350  TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 

It  is  thought  that  the  Earl  of  Surry  made  use  of  a  Lady 
and  her  Daughter  at  Ford  Castle  to  cause  delays,  and  that  the 
King  was  amused  at  that  house.  The  Earl  of  Surry  sent  to 
the  King  to  leave  England  or  come  down  and  fight  fairly,  and 
appointed  a  day,  which  he  did  not  keep,  that  those  who  were 
at  first  against  this  enterprise,  advised  him  to  take  all 
advantages  of  situation,  but  to  no  purpose,  and  when  he  did 
not  keep  the  day  to  retire : 

They  show  a  rock  where  the  King  sat,  doubtless  before  the 
battle,  in  which  he  was  certainly  present.  This  is  called  the 
King's  Seat.  Many  were  dressed  like  him  to  prevent  their 
aiming  at  the  King,  and  one  was  taken  up  dead  and  buried  for 
him,  but  he  had  not  the  iron  chain,1  about  him,  which  the 
King  wore  for  pennance.  And  it  is  at  this  day  reported  in 
the  Country,  that  he  was  seen  passing  the  next  morning 
Hampsideford  already  mentioned  ;2  and  the  Scotch  believe  he 
was  conducted  to  Hume  Castle,  and  murdered  there ;  Lord 
Hume  being  in  such  circumstances  as  to  give  reason  for  this 
suspicion.  And  I  was  told  that  lately  a  silver  chain  was  found 
not  far  from  Hume  Castle,  and  that  it  is  in  possession  of  Lord 
Marchmont ;  in  which  case,  if  it  was  the  Chain  about  the 
King,  it  must  have  been  a  silver  chain  he  wore  and  not  a  chain 
of  iron,  I  saw  some  little  risings  in  the  ground,  which  seemed 
to  be  places  where  the  bodies  had  been  buried. 

On  the  24th  I  left  Cornhill  and  soon  came  to  Wark,  where  I 
had  seen  at  a  distance  the  remains  of  a  Castle  which  is  on  the 
decline  of  the  hill,  and  seems  to  have  been  encompassed  with  a 
circular  wall ;  at  some  distance  from  the  Castle,  a  deep  fossee  is 
cut  through  the  Hill,  so  as  to  make  the  east  end  of  the  hill 
serve  for  a  Camp.  Here  is  a  ford  which  the  Scotch  commonly 
passed  when  they  came  into  England  in  time  of  war. 

We  came  to  the  last  parish  or  rather  Chapelry  in  England 
called  Carham,  The  minister  of  which  goes  often  to  Kelso,  and 
performs  divine  Service  to  a  few  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
settled  there,  under  a  legal  license.  We  passed  the  bounds  of 
this  parish  which  is  also  the  bounds  of  Scotland. — I  am,  &c. 

1  '  James  bound  an  iron  chain  round  his  body,  to  which  he  added  a  link  every 
year  during  his  life.' — Buchanan's  Hist.  B.  xni.  civ.  ix. 

2  See  p.  328. 


ITINERARY. 


A  Route  in  computed  miles,  and  English  measured  miles,  reckon- 
ing that  two  computed  make  three  measured,  taken  by  one  of 
the  company,  and  not  compared  with  the  miles  in  this  account. 
The  miles  in  Ireland  are  computed  as  11  make  14  English. 


April  12.   1760.    Left  Kilkenny. 

C. 

M. 

C. 

M. 

To  Queen's  County, 

May  6.    To  Kirk  Gunnion,    . 

IO 

15 

Mr.  Vicars's, 

20 

To  New  Abbey, 

6 

9 

To  Dublin, 

64 

To  Dumfries,    . 

5 

8 

24.    To  Drogheda, 

22 

To  Stank  of  Ruthvel, 

8 

12 

To  Dunlear, 

8 

7.    To  Hoddam  Castle,  . 

4 

6 

25.    To  Dundalk,    . 

12 

To  Annan, 

4 

6 

To  Newry, 

8 

To  Gretna  Green, 

6 

9 

26.    To  Bannonbridge,     . 

8 

8.    To  Carlisle,      . 

6 

10 

To  Hilsborough, 

13 

To  Penrith,      . 

M 

20 

To  Lisburn, 

2 

9.    To  Brougham  Castle, 

i4 

2 

To  Dean    Fletcher's 

To  Lowther  Hall,     . 

i* 

2 

and  back, 

4 

To  Shap, 

4* 

7 

IO.    To  Orton,         .         . 

5 

Total, 

161 

204 

To  Pendragon  Castle, 

8 

i'2 

— 

To  Kerby  Stephens,  . 

3 

44 

To  Brough, 

3 

4i 

28     To  DoritiPrli3,clcG 

i7 

TO 

*o 

•y 

30.    To    Portpatrick     by 

Total, 

iQ3i 

iS6_ 

Sea,      . 

17 

25 

^^ 

To  Stranraer,   . 

34 

5 

May    I.    To  Glanluce,    . 

6 

9 

To  Whitehern, 

r4 

21 

12.    To  Lead  mines, 

2 

3 

2.    To  Whitehern  Island 

To  Greta  Bridge, 

IO 

IS 

and  back, 

4 

6 

To  Richmond,          . 

7 

IO 

To  Wigtown,   . 

8 

12 

13.    To  Easby  Abbey,     . 

i 

i 

To  Newtown  Stuart, 

6 

9 

To  Burton  on  Swale, 

2 

2 

3.   To  Garliss  Castle  and 

To  Cattarick  Bridge, 

I 

I 

back,    . 

3 

5 

To  Appleton,   . 

2 

2 

To  Ferrytown  . 

6 

9 

To  Cattarick  Bridge, 

2 

2 

To  Gatehouse, 

6 

9 

To  Darlington, 

8 

13 

14.    To  Gunflis, 

•7 

Total, 

86£ 

129 

To  Raby  Castle, 

J 

6 

9 

^^~ 

^^— 

15.   To  West  Aukland,   . 

4 

6 

To  Bishop's  Aukland, 

2 

3 

5.   To  Tongland,  . 

6 

9 

To  Woolsingham,     . 

7 

IO 

To      Dundrennan, 

To  Stanhope,   . 

4 

6 

Abbey, 

6 

9 

1  6.   To  Isop  Burne, 

7 

10 

To  Aughan  Keran,  . 

3 

5 

To  Alston, 

IO 

IS 

[The  orthography   of  many  of  these   place-names  has  already  been  annotated 
throughout  the  text.] 


352 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


C. 

M. 

C. 

M. 

May  17.  To      Featherstone 

June  6.  To  Dun  Staffnage,    . 

4 

4 

Castle, 

8 

IT.) 

To  Isle  of  Mull, 

9 

9 

To  Haltwesel,  . 

3 

4i 

To  Aughan  Crage,    . 

4 

5 

To  Brampton,  . 

8 

12 

7-    To  Benissan,    . 

18 

27 

Total, 

97 

140 

Total, 

IIS 

140 

-H 

19.   To  Naworth  Castle,  . 

3 

3 

8.    To  Craig, 

4 

6 

To  Bew  Castle, 

6 

9 

To  I  Colm  Kill, 

2 

2  1 

To  Neatherby, 

7 

10 

To   Porticurrich  and 

To  Long  Toun, 

2 

2 

back,    . 

4 

4 

2O.    To  Gratna  Green,     . 

4 

6 

To  Cromarty  in  Mull, 

2 

2  1  , 

To  Eaglefeckin, 

6 

9 

9.    To  Aughan  Craig,    . 

21 

31 

To  Lockerby,  . 

4 

6 

10.   To    Island    of     Lis- 

To  Moffett, 

12 

18 

more,    . 

8 

8 

21.    To  Old  Wells, 

2 

2 

To  Airds, 

6 

6  L 

To  New  Wells, 

3 

s 

13.    To  Fort  William,      . 

16 

24 

To  Leadhills,    . 

9 

134 

14.   To  Fort  Augustus,    . 

18 

28 

22.    To  Carmichael 

12 

18 

. 

To  Lanerk, 

4 

6 

Total, 

81 

Ill  I 

23.   To  Carstairs,    . 

3 

5 

^~— 

^^MMF 

To  Bonny  Town, 

5 

7 

To  Lanerk, 

2 

2 

16.    To  Inverness,  . 

21 

33 

To  Hamilton,  . 

10 

15 

17.   To     Culloden      and 

24.    To  Glasgow,     . 

8 

12 

back,    . 

6 

IO 

To  Fort  George  and 

Total, 

IO2 

I48J 

back,    . 

14 

26 

^^~ 

^^— 

20.    To  Dingwell,    . 

IO 

H 

To  Sir  Harry  Monro's, 

3 

4 

28.  To  Renfrew,     . 

4 

6 

To  New  Town, 

2 

2 

To  Paisley, 

2 

3 

21.    To  Ardmore,    . 

IO 

X5 

To  Baith, 

8 

12 

To  Rose  Hall, 

16 

24  | 

To  Kilwinin  Abbey, 

6 

9 

To  Irwin, 

2 

3 

Total, 

82 

128 

29.    To  Kilmarnock, 

6 

8 

^~— 

•M^M  I 

To  Glasgow,     . 

16 

24 

30.    To  Dunbarton, 

8 

13 

23.   To  Clane  Hall, 

6 

8 

To  Bonhill  Ferry,     . 

2 

3 

24.    To  Mowdel, 

24 

36 

To  Luss, 

8 

12 

25.   To  Durness, 

24 

36 

Total, 

62 

93 

Total, 

54 

_8o| 

June    I.  To  Torbut, 

8 

8 

...  To  Cape  Wrath  and 

To  end  of  lake  and 

back,  . 

24 

32 

back,    . 

18 

18 

...  To  Smoo  and  back,  . 

4 

6 

2.    To  Ackinloss,  . 

12 

12 

...  To    the     Kyle    and 

To  Inverary,     . 

IO 

IO 

back,    . 

4 

6 

To  top  of  hill    and 

...  To    the    Glebe    and 

back,    . 

4 

4 

back,     . 

I 

i  1 

To  valley  and  back,  . 

6 

6 

30.    To  Kintail, 

18 

28 

To   the    woods    and 

July    I  .   To  Tongue,       .         . 

2 

3 

back,    . 

4 

4 

To  Strathy, 

18 

18 

4.    To       Sir       Duncan 

2.    To  Bighouse,    . 

5 

7 

Campbell's,  . 

21 

33 

To  Sanside,      .         . 

3 

5 

ITINERARY. 


353 


July  3.    To  Thyrso, 
To  Orkneys,     . 
4.    To  Dwarfie        Stone 
and  Stromness, 
5.    To  Kirkwall,    . 

Total,  two  weeks, 

7.  To  Capt.  Hoodie's,  . 
ii.  To  Ratter, 
To  Pict's  House  and 
back, 
To    Johnny    Grott's 
House  and  back,   . 
12.  To  Lord  Cathness  at 
Myrtle, 
To  Sir  Patrick  Dun- 
bar's,    . 

Total,  . 

14.   To  Sir  William  Dun- 
bar's,    . 
15.    To  Wick, 
To  Dunbeath,  . 
16.    To  Dunrobin,  . 
17.    To  Dornock,    . 
To  Skibo, 
1  8.    To  Innerchasley, 
19.    To  Taine, 
To  Guines, 
To  Catbol, 
To  Cromarty,  . 
20.    To  Fowles, 
22.   To  Lord  Lovat's  seat, 
Beaulieu, 
To  Inverness,  . 
23.    To  Fort  George, 
To  Kilbrack,    . 
24.    To  Nairn, 
To  Lord  Murray's,    . 
To  Forres, 
•         25.   To  Broughsea,  . 
To  Duffus, 
To  Spiney  Castle,     . 
To  Elgin, 
26.   To  Pluscardine  Abbey, 
To  Elgin, 

Total,  two  weeks,  . 

28.    To  Gordon  Castle,    . 
To  Cullen, 

C. 

10 

18 

28 
16 

M. 

H 
18 

28 
24 

190 

July  29.    To  Barrife, 
To  Forge  land,  .  • 
30.    To  New  Deer,  . 
To  Old  Deer,   . 
To  Peterhead,  . 
31.    To  Slanes  Castle, 
Aug.  i.    To  Ellon, 
To  Old  Meldrum,     . 
To  Money  Musk, 
To  Paradin  and  back, 
2.    To  Aberdeen,  . 
To  Seaton  and  back, 

Total,  . 

5.    To  Stonehive,  . 
To  Bervey, 
6.    To  Montrose,   . 
To  Brechan, 
7.    ToForfar, 
To  Glaimes, 
8.    To  Lord  Penmure's,  . 
To  Arbroath,    . 
To  Dundee,      . 
9.    To  Coupar  in  Angus, 
To  Dunkeld,     . 
To  the  hill  and  back 
twice,   . 
To  the  Hermitage  and 
back  twice,   . 

15.    To  Blair,  . 
About    the  .place  at 
several  times, 

Total,  . 

1  8.   To  Taymouth,  . 
22.   About  the  place  seve- 
ral times,       .         • 
To  Glyn   Lyon   and 
back,    . 
To  Crief,  . 
To  Drummond  Castle, 

Total,  . 

25.    To  Ardock, 
To  Tullibarden, 
To  Drummond  Castle, 

C. 

8 

5 

10 

4 
8 
6 
8 
6 
6 

4 
12 

3 

M. 

12 

7 
15 
6 

12 

9 

12 

8 
8 
6 
18 

4 

151 

20 

9 

2 

8 
7 
4 

30 
9 

2 
12 
10 

6 

93 

136 
14 

IO 
12 

8 

12 

5 

12 
IO 

18 
15 
15 

6 
5 

10 

6 
8 
6 
8 

3 
8 

7 

12 
IO 
IO 

4 
3 

50 
8 

2 
16 
20 
6 
3 
4 

2 

4 

2 

6 
16 

7 
6 

7 
3 
6 
6 

2 

6 

4 
3 

i 

3 
3 

69 

12 
2 
24 
30 
9 
4 
6 

2 

8 
24 

10 

8 
13 

8 
8 

3 

8 
6 

4 
i 

4 
4 

95 

15 
6 

142 

20 

9 

21 

2O 
IO 

6 
18 

2 

29 

3° 
15 

9 
27 

3 

56 

84 

6 
6 
6 

146 

212 

9 

10 

4 
4 
4 

6 

7 

354 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


C. 

M. 

C. 

M. 

Aug.  25.    To  Galgacan  and  back 

Sept.  9.    To  Newhaven    and 

by  Crieff, 

10 

15 

13.    ToLeith, 

2 

2 

To  Methuen,    . 
26.    To  Duplin, 

8 
3 

12 

4 

To  Craig  Miller  Castle, 
To  Edinburgh,  . 

2 

2 

2 

2 

To  Elcho, 

34 

5 

To  Perth, 

2 

3 

Total,  . 

48 

6? 

27.    To  Schoon, 

2 

2 

-Si. 

To  Erroll, 
To  Maginch  and  back, 

IO 

2 

2 

16.   To  Musselburgh, 
To  Dalkeith 

3 
3 

4 

A 

28.    To  Mugdrum,  . 
To  Abernathie, 
29.    To  Newbrough, 

3 

2 
2 

4 

2 
2 

17.    To  Armistown, 
About  the  place, 
1  8.    To        Gifford       and 

6 

IO 

8 

10 

To  Lindores,    . 
To  Balmerinack, 
To  Coupar  in  Fife,   . 
To  St.  Andrews, 

I 

6 

4 
6 

I 

8 
6 
8 

Yester,  . 
About  the  place, 
19.    To  Haddington, 
To  North  Berwick,  . 

ii 

6 

3 
6 

16 
6 
4 
8 

Total,  . 

764 

106 

To  Dunbar, 
20.    To  Broxburn,  . 

7 
i 

IO 

i 

21.    To  Dunglass,    . 

4 

6 

Sept.  i.    To  Crail,  . 

6 

9 

About  the  place, 

4 

4 

To  Kilwenny,  . 

3 

4 

Total 

64 

81 

To  Anstrather, 

2 

2 

To  Pettin  Weme, 
To  St.  Monan, 

2 
I 

2 
I 

22.    To  Coldingham, 

7 

IO 

To  Ellie,  . 

I 

I 

To     Berwick      upon 

2.    To  Leven, 

6 

8 

Tweed, 

7 

10 

To  Leisley, 
3.    To  Faulkland,  . 

6 

8 
6 

23.    To  Northam,    . 
To  Cornhill,     . 

6 
4 

9 

5 

To  Kinross, 

7 

IO 

To   Coldstream    and 

To  the  isle  and  back, 
4.    To  Lough  Orr, 
To  Kirkaldy,    . 

/ 

2 

4 
6 

2 

8 

back,    . 
To  the  Spaw  and  back, 
To  Flodden  field  and 

3 

2 

4 

2 

To  Dysert, 
5.    To  Kirkaldy,    . 
To  Kingshorn,  . 
To  Inverkeithing, 
To  Dunibrical, 

2 
2 
2 

4 

2 

2 
2 

2 

6 
i 

back,    . 
24.    To  Kelso, 
To  Stitchall,     . 
To  Mailerstanes, 
About  the  place, 

7 
3 
3 
6 

9 

IO 

4 
4 
9 

To  Inverkeithing, 
To  Dumfermling, 
6.    To  Culross, 
To  Clackmannan, 

2 

34 
6 
6 

o 

8 
8 

To  Dryburgh  Abbey 
and  back, 
26.   To  Mellross,     . 
To  Selkirk,      . 

6 

4 
4 

9 
6 
6 

To  Lord  Cathcart's,  . 
To  Aloa,  . 

2 
2 

3 

2 

27.    Tojedburgh,    . 
To  Wooller,     . 

IO 

18 

14 
26 

To  Dumblaine, 

7 

IO 

nfi 

Total, 

9° 

^37 

Total,  . 

904 

121.  1; 



29.    To  Whitingham,        ) 

f  n*7 

To  Sheriff  Muir  and 

Oct.   3.    To  Newcastle,           \ 

107 

151 

back,     . 

6 

6 

7.    To  Jarrow,        .         ) 

rv» 

8.    To  Sterling,      . 

4 

6 

II.    To  Scarborough,       ( 

90 

128 

To  Falkirk,      . 

8 

12 

13.    To  Bridlington,          ) 

08 

To  Linlithgow, 

6 

9 

1  8.    To  Godmanhan,        \ 

9° 

140 

To  Hopton, 
To  Queensferry, 

6 

2 

8 

2 

20.    To  Landborough,      | 
24.   To  Chatsworth,          \ 

83 

in£ 

9.    To  Hopton, 

2 

2 

27.    To  Chesterfield,         ) 

T^^-,3 

To  Edinburgh, 

8 

12 

29.    To  London.      .          \ 

...        1  U  W  .j 

ITINERARY. 


355 


SUMMARY  OF  THE  NUMBER  OF  MILES  TRAVELLED 
IN  THE  THIRTY  WEEKS. 


Miles  Travelled. 

IRELAND. 
First  and  second  weeks  —  Total, 

204 

204 

SCOTLAND. 

4th  week—  Total,  .... 

129 

5th  week         „                 ... 

156 

6th  week         ,,                 ... 

140 

7th  week        ,,                ... 

148* 

8th  week         ,,                 ... 

93 

9th  week         ,,                 ... 

140 

loth  week         ,,                 ... 

in 

nth  week        ,,                ... 

128 

I2th  week         ,,                 ... 

80 

I3th  week        ,,                ... 

190 

I4th  week         „                 ... 

69 

1  5th  and  1  6th  weeks  —  Total,    . 

212 

1  7th  week—  Total  

136 

1  8th  and  igth  weeks  —  Total,    . 

171 

20th  week  —  Total,   .... 

84 

2ist  week         ,,.... 

106 

22d  week        ,,.... 

I2l£ 

23d  week        ,,.... 

63 

81 

25th  week         ,,        

137 

24.06 

ENGLAND. 

^ffyv 

151 

27th  week        ,,...... 

128 

28th  week        „       

140 

2gth  week        ,,       

mi 

i6o| 

69iJ 

Total  in  all,         .... 

339ii 

356 


TOUR  THROUGH  SCOTLAND,  1760. 


LIST  OF  STAGES  TWIXT  LONDON  AND  EDINBURGH. 


East  Road.                              Miles. 

West  Road. 

Miles. 

Haddington,  . 

16 

Lintoun, 

12 

Dunbar, 

ii 

27 

Beild,     . 

12 

24 

Old  Cambus, 

10 

37 

Moffat,  . 

12 

36 

Berwick, 

16 

53 

Lockerbie, 

II 

47 

Belford,       "  . 

15 

68 

Alison  bank,  . 

IO 

57 

Alnwick, 

»4 

82 

Carlisle, 

9 

66 

Morpeth, 

19 

IOI 

Penrith, 

14 

80 

Newcastle,     . 

H 

"5 

Kendal, 

18 

98 

Durham, 

IS 

130 

Burton, 

>j 

107 

Darlington,    . 

18 

148 

Lancaster, 

9 

116 

Northallerton, 

15 

163 

Garstang, 

10 

126 

Borrowbridge, 

19 

182 

Preston, 

IO 

136 

York,     . 

17 

199 

Wiggan, 

14 

150 

Tadcaster, 

9 

208 

Newton, 

7 

157 

Ferrybridge,  . 

;  '3 

221 

Lastock, 

12 

169 

Doncaster, 

15 

236 

Brereton  Green, 

5 

174 

Bawtry, 

8 

244 

Newcastle-under-Line, 

IO 

184 

Tuxford, 

16 

26O 

Stone,    . 

7 

191 

Newark, 

13 

273 

Litchfield,      . 

16 

207 

Grantham, 

M 

287 

Coleshill, 

12 

219 

Colesforth, 

7 

294 

Coventry, 

!    8 

227 

Stamford, 

13 

307 

Dunchurch,    . 

8 

235 

Stilton, 

14      -121 

Daventry, 

i    6 

241 

Bugden, 

14 

335 

Towcester,     . 

10 

251 

Bigilsward,     . 

'6      351 

Fenny  Stratford,     . 

!    12 

263 

Stephenage,    . 

H      365 

Dunstable, 

9 

272 

Hatfield, 

12 

377 

St.  Albans,     . 

IO 

282 

Barnet, 

9 

386 

Barnet, 

IO 

292 

London, 

II 

397 

London, 

10 

302 

The  whole  of  the  East  road  is  measured,  and  mile  stones  erected,  but  the  West  road 
is  all  computed  miles. 

York  is  for  ordinary  made  a  Stage,  tho'  it  lyes  about  8  miles  off  the  road  ;  so  that 
by  the  East  road  the  distance  betwixt  Edinburgh  and  London  is  about  389. 


INDEX. 


ABBEY  OF  LUCE,  12,  13. 

of  Sweetheart,  27. 

Craig,  290,  293. 

Abbotshall,  281. 

Aberbrothock  Abbey,  220,  221. 

Abercairney,  247. 

Abercorn,  Earl  of,  56. 

Abercromby,  Andrew,  223. 

Abercromby  Church,  275. 

Aberdeen,  186,  2OI-2IO;  Carme- 
lite Convent,  203;  charters,  204; 
Library  and  MSS.,  207;  Cross,  203; 
inscriptions,  Cathedral,  205  ;  King's 
College,  207 ;  Marischal  College, 
208  ;  Monuments,  Cathedral,  206  ; 
Provost  of,  210 ;  students,  204 ; 
Trades'  Hall,  202,  203. 
—  Lord,  199. 

William,  Earl  of,  199. 

Aberdour  Castle,  282;  Nunnery,  228; 
Obelisk,  282. 

Aberlady,  226. 

Aberlemno  Crosses,  217. 

Abernethy,   260,    262 ;    church,    260, 
261  ;  Round  Tower,  257,  261. 

Lord,  264. 

iron  forges,  184. 

Able,  Adam,  345. 

Achany,  115. 

Achnacary,  98,  99. 

Achness,  Rosehall,  114. 

Ackergill  Tower,  160. 

Acre,  English,  113;  Scotch,  113. 

Adams,  the  architect,  48,  222,   280, 

3".  3l6- 
Adders,  126. 

Advocates'  Library,  2,  307. 
Agate,  87,  154. 
Aiden,  King,  78. 
Aird,  Rev.  Dr.  Gustavus,  131. 
Airds,  Argyleshire,  91,  95. 

Ross-shire,  108,  115. 

Airth,  295. 
Alabaster,  198. 
Albany,  Duchess  of,  61. 
Alcluith,  6 1. 


Aldourie,  102. 

Alexander  in.,  81. 

Allanfearn,  104. 

All  Angels'  Day,  86. 

Allan  river,  290,  291. 

Alloa,  290. 

Allt  Granda,  177. 

Almond,  river,  251,  255. 

Alness,  in. 

Alstonmoor,  36. 

Altar,  lona,  82 ;  Roman,  33,  34 ;  St. 

Andrew's,  Glasgow,  82. 
Altrie,  Lord,  197. 
Alva,  Lord,  290. 
Amber,  93,  241. 
Amulree,  239. 
Anack,  river,  57. 
Ancrum,  343. 

•  Muir,  340. 

Andrew,  Bishop,  188. 

Andrew,  St.,  263,  265,  266,  267. 

Angel's  Hill,  86. 

Angus,  225. 

Archibald  Douglas,  Earl  of,  320. 

—  Earl  of,  340. 
Ankerville,  174. 
Annan,  34. 

Annan,  river,  7>  37>  4°- 

—  William,  47. 
Annandale,  7,  33. 

Marquis  of,  38,  40. 

Anne,   Queen,   151  ;  nuptial   bed  of, 

286. 
Anstruther,  274. 

Sir  John,  275,  276. 

SirW.  C.,44. 

Anthony,  St.,  309. 
Antrim,  5. 
Appleby,  I. 
Apples,  130,  151,  345. 

Appin,95- 

Aray,  river,  65,  oo. 

Arbroath,  220,  221 ;  Chapel,  220. 

Archdall,  Rev.  M.,  Iviii,  lix,  Ixiv. 

Archibald,  Bishop,  186. 

Ardbrecknish,  68. 


358 


INDEX. 


Ardchattan,  69,  70. 
Ardchonal  Castle,  68. 
Ardmaddy,  71. 
Ardmagh,  5- 
Ardmore,  III. 
Ardmucknish,  71. 
Ardoch,  240,  242,  244. 
Ardschrinish,  77. 
Argyle,  Bishop  of,  69,  72,  78. 

Earl  of,  51,  99. 

Duke  of,  65,  84,  87,  241,  283, 

292,  294,  304. 

Family,  68,  238. 

Argyleshire,  115. 

Aria  Theophrasti  dicta,  72. 

Arkaig,  Loch,  99. 

Arrnadale,  131. 

Armlet,  ancient  bronze,  330. 

Arniston,  313,  315. 

Arnold,  Bishop,  268. 

Aros  Castle,  76,  77. 

Arsbrook,  114. 

Arthur's  Oven,  296. 

Asbestos,  228. 

Ash,  130. 

Athelstaneford,  318. 

Athole,  225. 

Duchess  of,  252,  259. 

Duke  of,  liv,  68,  199,  225,  228, 

229,  232,  242. 

Walter,  Earl  of,  247. 

Auchencraig,  74,  77. 

Auchencairn,  25. 

Auchencat,  39. 

Auchindoun  Castle,  185. 

Augustine,    St.,    236,   246,  258,  274, 

294. 

Austin,  St.,  269,  274,  298,  344. 
Avona,  92. 
Avon,  river,  296. 
Awe,  Loch,  238  ;  river,  68. 
Ayr,  4. 

BAGIMONT,  CARDINAL,  300. 
Baile-Mhoadain,  69. 
Baillie,  George,  333. 

Lady  Grisell,  333. 

Mr. ,  of  Ardmore  and  Rosehall, 

in,  113. 

Balcarres  Castle,  276. 
Balfour,  Mr.,  2. 
Balgonie  Castle,  276 ;  Mr.  Graham's, 

247. 

Baliol,  John,  1 8,  27. 
Ballanbreich  Castle,  264. 
Ballantrae,  4. 
Ballintory,  77. 
Balloch,  243. 
Balmerino  Abbey,  294 ;  Castle,  260. 


Balmerino,  Lord,  302. 

Balm  Well,  315. 

Balnagown  Castle,  175. 

Balreny  Castle,  185. 

Banco,  the  Thane,  98. 

Bannatyne,  Christopher,  47. 

Banff,  194 ;  Convent,  195 ;  Cliff  Caves, 

195- 

Lord,  195. 

Bannockburn,  295,  319. 

Barber,  Dr. ,  5. 

Barclay  (Quaker),  211. 

Barklay,  Andrew,  212. 

Barley,   17;  cake,   88;  mode  of  pre- 
serving, 159. 

Barnard  Castle,  27. 

Barnbogle,  308. 

Barra,  93  ;  battle  of,  1 86,  200. 

Barren  women's  pilgrimage,  274. 

Barrel's  Regiment,  3,  105,  107. 

Bass  Rock,  298,  320. 

Beaches,  white,  lona,  87. 

Beaton,  Bishop  James,  16,  50,  271. 

Cardinal,  256,  270,  271. 

Bean  bread,  178. 

Beattock,  10. 

Beau  Castle,  36. 

Beaufort  Castle,  178. 

Beaumont,  Earl  of,  264. 

Beauly,    103,    no;  Loch,    108,   180 ; 
Priory,  178;  river,  108,  178. 

Beckett,  Thomas  a,  220. 

Beckett's  Cross,  341. 

Bede,  14,  24,  61,  78,  81,  341. 

Bedstead,  royal,  286. 

Beef  salted  in  skins,  93  ;  stand,  Mar- 
quis of  Annandale's,  40. 

Beech  Tree  Avenue,  66. 

Beith,  56. 

Belfast,  5. 

Belhaven,  Lord,  305. 

Belleville,  228. 

Bell,  Robert,  47. 

Beltonford,  2. 

Benbecula,  93. 

Ben  Clibrec,  118. 

Cruachan,  68. 

Hope,  123,  129,  130. 

Lomond,  68. 

—  Loyal,  130. 

Maddy,  131. 

—  Nevis,  68,  99. 

Bennett,  Saint,  263. 

Bennochie,  200,  212. 

Benvheir,  97. 

Beregonium,  69. 

Bernard,  Saint,  263. 

Bernera,  93,  113. 

Bernie,  186 ;  church,  191. 


INDEX. 


359 


Benidale,  163. 

Berwick,  I,  320,  328,  346,  347. 

Beaver  skins,  138. 

Binning,  Lady,  332. 

Lord,  336. 

Birchfield,  113. 
Birnam,  228. 
Birnock  Clooves,  39. 
Birrens,  6. 
Birsay,  142. 
Bishop  Auckland,  36. 

of  Caithness,  134. 

Forbes,  97. 

—  John  of  Dunkeld,  90. 

—  of  the  Isles,  81. 

of  Argyle,  90. 

of  Orkney,  137. 

of  Ross,  no. 

of  Sodor  and  Man,  8l. 

Bishoptown  Castle,  16. 

Bituminous  fossil,  154. 

Blaan,  St.,  291. 

Black  bourn,  Mr.,  I. 

Black  game,  26. 

Blackness  Castle,  298. 

Bladenoch,  river,  18. 

Blainslie,  342. 

Blair  Athole,  68,  229,  230,  231,  232, 

233- 

—  Drummond,  294. 
Blankets,  II. 
Blantyre,  Lord,  56. 
Boat,  II,  37,  87. 
Boarhill,  273. 
Boddom  Head,  197. 
Boleskine,  101. 
Bolton,  Duke  of,  239. 
Bonnets,  Scotch,  59. 
Bonnington  Fall,  Clyde,  46. 
House,  46. 

Borve  Castle,  131. 

Bos  Primigenius,  72,91. 

Bothwell  Castle,  4  ;  Church,  48. 

Earl,  150. 

Bowmaker,  Abbot  Walter,  298. 

Bowness,  199. 

Boys    in    boat    driven    out    to    sea, 

210. 

Braan,  river,  227,  238. 
Bracelet,  British,  Ixvii. 
Brahan  Castle,  178. 
Brampton,  32,  36. 
Brankston,  349. 
Brass  cannon,  295. 
Breadalbane,  Earl  of,  64,  68,  71,  225, 

234.  304- 
Bread  baked  in   pot,    133 ;   of  pease 

and  oats  or  barley,  1 78. 
Breakfast  at  Hopetoun,  3. 


Brechin,    213,    215  ;  Cathedral,   215  ; 

chapels,    216  ;  Cross,    216  ;  Round 

Tower,  215. 

Bride's  Close  Quarry,  44. 
Bridget,  St. ,  262. 
Bridius,  King,  78. 
Brigantise,  Goddess,  314. 
Bristow,  Mr.,  5. 
Brochs,  93,   in,  116,  118,  166,  185, 

228. 

Brockley  Mills,  193. 
Brodie  Castle,  182. 

—  Dr.,  192. 

—  Mr.,  of  Elgin,  192. 
Brody,  Rev.  Mr.,  181. 
Brooch,  oval,  91. 
Broom,  228. 

Loch,  101,  113,   114,  115. 

—  Spinning  School,  114. 
Brora,  165. 
Brothock,  river,  220. 
Brough,  36. 
Brougham  Castle,  36. 
Broughty  Castle,  222. 
Brounhill,  342. 
Broxmouth,  324. 
Bruar,  river,  233. 
Bruce,  Baron  of  Kinloss,  184. 

—  Bishop,  1 86. 

—  Castle,  38,  295. 

—  George,  monument,  288. 
Marjory,  54. 

—  Mrs.,  289. 

—  Robert  the,  30,  289. 

—  Sir  Henry,  289. 

—  Sir  John,  277,  278. 
sword  and  helmet,  289. 

the  architect,  277,  278,  297. 

Brudens,  King,  279. 

Buccleuch,  Duke  of,  2,  312. 

Buchanan  Castle,  3. 

Buchan,  193,  195,  196 ;  like  North- 
amptonshire, 196. 

Earl  of,  80,  1 88,  196. 

Bullers  of  Buchan,  198. 

Bunchrew,  180. 

Bunessan,  77. 

Bunting,  snow,  140. 

Bureau  made  of  broom-wood,  232. 

Burghead,  185. 

Burgh  Mills,  5. 

Burleigh  Castle,  278. 

Burnett  of  Leys,  200. 

Professor  Alexander,  2 1 8. 

Burnswork,  6,  34,  37. 

Burntisland  Church,  282  ;  Bin  Hill, 
282 ;  Kirkton,  282. 

Butter,  88,  94. 

Buttonesshead,  221,  222. 


360 


INDEX. 


Burial,  ancient,  326. 
Burial-place,  89. 
Burra,  151,  153. 
Buy,  Loch,  131. 

CADZOW  CASTLE,  47. 

Caer  Gunnian,  26. 

Caerlaverock  Castle,  31. 

Cail,  127. 

Cake  and  wine  entertainments,  118, 

130. 
Cairn,    130,    177,    211  ;    chambered, 

165  ;  near  Farr,  131. 
Cairndow,  65. 
Cairnbulg  Castle,  198. 
Cairngorm,  201. 
Cairnsmuir,  20. 
Cairn  William,  200. 
Caithness,  159,  160. 

Bishop  of,  167. 

Countess  of,  310. 

Earl  of,  158,  1 60,  163,  195. 

Caledonia,  Sylva,  115. 
Callernish,  94. 
Cambuskenneth,  293. 
Cambus,  Old,  2. 
Campbell,  General,  71,  244. 
Lady,  71. 

Mr.,  69,  89. 

Mr.,  of  Levenside,  61. 

Mr. ,  of  Monzie,  239,  244. 

of  Airds,  91. 

of  Dunstaffnage,  74,  76. 

—  of  Tiree,  78. 

—  Principal,  208,  209. 
Prior  John,  69. 

Sir  Duncan,  71. 

Campbells  of  Taymouth,  236,  238. 

Campbelltown,  66  ;  Cross,  85. 

Camp  Castle,  240,  242,  245. 

Camstraddan,  62. 

Camus  Cross,  217. 

Candida  Casa,  14,  18. 

Canisby,  155. 

Canna,  93. 

Cantse,  115. 

Cantie,  132. 

Cantire,  92. 

Caolchurn  Castle,  68. 

Capercaillie,  no. 

Cape  Wrath,  124,  125,  126,  131. 

Caprington,  58. 

Cardonalcl,  56. 

Cardonness  Castle,  20. 

Carham,  328,  350. 

Caristown,  217. 

Carlisle,  I,  9,  33,  36. 

•  Lord,  195. 

Carmichael  Burn,  44. 


Carmichael,  Sir  James,  46. 
Carnabii,  163. 
Carn  ban,  95. 
Carnegy,  Sir  D.,  214. 
Carnonacae,  115. 
Caroni,  132. 
Caroline  Park,  318. 
Carpenter,  John,  22. 
Carpets,  44,  59,  274,  287. 
Carr,  Mr,,  349. 
Carrick,  Earl  of,  30. 
Carriden,  298. 
Carron  ferry-boat,  113. 

Iron-works,  296. 

Loch,  lor. 

—  Spinning  School,  114. 
Carstairs  village,  45. 

Roman  antiquities,  45. 

Cart,  river,  53,  60. 

Carter,  W.  Allan,  Ix. 

Cartigo,  river,  114. 

Carts,  36. 

Cassley,  river,  113;  falls,  114. 

Castland  Hill,  283. 

Castle  Campbell,  290. 

Craig,  no,  176. 

Grant,  68. 

Kennedy,  12. 

—  Leod,  109. 

Stewart,  104. 

Castledykes,  45. 

Castlemilk,  33,  37,  57. 

Catanach,  Professor  James,  208. 

Caterthun,  217. 

Cathcarte,  Earl  of,  60,  289. 

Catherine,  St.,  310. 

Catholics,  Roman,  93. 

Catina,  115. 

Cats,  wild,  26,  120. 

Catstone,  The,  299. 

Cattle,  black,  18  ;  to  be  blessed,  86. 

Cautie  Loch,  10. 

Cava  Isle,  134. 

Cawdor  Castle,  181  ;  tradition,  182. 

Celnius,  195. 

Celtic  mount,  233. 

Cessford,  313  ;  Castle,  345. 

Chac,  140. 

Chalmers,  Principal  John,  208. 

Chamler,  Mr.,  92. 

Chandos,  Duke  of,  272. 

Chanonry  of  Ross,  1 10. 

Charles  I.,  portrait,  283. 

Charmale,  189. 

Charterhouse,  Lord,  251. 

Charteris,  Mr.,  New  Mill,  318. 

Chatelherault,  47. 

Duke  of,  56,  57,  221. 

Cheese,  88,  94. 


INDEX. 


361 


Cherries,  130. 

Chertes  Knowe,  342. 

Chester,  344. 

Cheyne,  Bishop  Henry,  204. 

Chinevix,  Mrs.,  5. 

Christ  Church,  Hampshire,  24. 

Orkney,  142. 

Chronicles  of  Melrose,  24,  341. 

Saxon,  79. 

Church,  circular,  137  ;  thatched,  349. 

Churn,  116. 

Clackmae,  342. 

Clackmannan,  289. 

Cladh  an  Diesart,  85. 

Clans  Chattan  and  Kay  combat,  257. 

Clary,  19. 

Cleres,  Rev.  Mr.,  5. 

Clerk,  Baron,  2,  314. 

Clet,  133. 

Clifton,  64. 

Clochmaben  stone,  35. 

Clock  timed  by  stars,  67. 

Cluniac  monks,  53. 

Cluny  Hill,  183. 

Loch,  101. 

Clyde,  river,  20,  40,  41,  43,  47,  61. 

Clydesdale,  41. 

Clyde's  Nop,  or  Nape,  40. 

Clyne  House,  165. 

Cnoc  a  Choire,  115. 

Cnoc  nan  Aingeal,  86. 

Coal,  17,  25,  57,  60,   no,  276,  280, 

290,  313,  325,  347- 
Coble,  164,  214. 
Cockburnspath,  2. 
Cockles,  25,  152. 
Cod,  25,  88,  145,  153. 
Coins,   collection  of,   173,  200,   208, 

275,  307. 
Coir  nan  eas,  121. 
Coldingham   Nunnery,   327 ;    Priory, 

327- 

Coldstream,  328. 
Colefish,  145. 
Coleman,  Mr.,  5. 
Collection  plates,  148. 
Collieries,  281. 
Cologne,  30. 
Colonia,  45. 
Colonsay,  71,  93. 
Colquhouns,  61,  62. 
Columba,  78. 
Colville,  Alexander,  288. 

Lord,  288. 

Comlongon  Castle,  31. 
Comor  Castle,  325. 
Compass  Hill,  93. 
Compost,  manure,  149. 
Comrie,  242. 


Comyn,  John,  7,  30. 

Sir  Robert,  30. 

Conavii,  132. 

Cope,  General,  311. 

Copper,  41,  42,  100. 

Cora  linn,  40,  46. 

Corbie  Hall  Farm,  45. 

Corehouse,  Lanark,  46. 

Cormac  Ulfhadda,  84. 

Cornhill,  328,  350. 

Coronation  Chair,  ivory  figure,  72,  74  > 

75  ;  Chair  and  Stone,  258. 
Corsincon,  30. 
Corstorphine,  299. 
Corryburgh,  180. 
Coryvreckan,  71. 
Coulside  Loch,  120. 
Coupar  Angus,  225. 
Court  of  Session,  first  President,  294. 
Covenanters,  Rullion  Green,  315. 
Cowie,  211. 
Cows,  94. 
Crabs,  14. 
Craig  Fort,  293. 
Craigmillar  Castle,  310. 
Craig  Nuke,  69. 
Craig,  The  Eagle's,  243. 
Craigie  House,  259. 

Lord  President,  313. 

Crail  Church,  273,  274. 

Crailing  Hall,  345. 

Cramond,  3,  299. 

Cranston,  316. 

Crawford,  Mr.,    of  Errol,  248,   259, 

260. 

Crawfordjohn,  43. 
Crawfurdland  Castle,  60. 
Creag  Chailliun,  1 14. 
Cream,  piggin  of,  118  ;  whisked,  116. 
Creones,  115. 
Creran,  Loch,  91. 
Cree,  river,  18. 
Creetown,  19. 
Crichton,  Admirable,  247. 

Castle,  315  ;  Church,  315. 


Crieff,  239,  244,  247. 
Criffel,  27,  30. 
Crimond,  Lord,  200. 
Crimson  dye,  92. 
Cromarty,  no,  176,  180. 

Earl  of,  109,  175. 

Firth,  1 08. 

Obelisk,  109. 


Cromwell's  map,  19  ;  fort,  104,  184  ; 
camp,  315. 

Cromwellian  soldiers,  69. 

Crosses,  Aberlemno,  217 ;  Camus, 
217 ;  Farr  Church,  131  ;  High, 
66  ;  Market,  17,  18,  66,  265. 


362 


INDEX. 


Crottle  Corkir,  92. 

Cruachan,  68. 

Crudin,  186. 

Cudins,  124,  145. 

Cuithes,  145. 

Culcairn,  no,  176. 

Cullen,  193,  225. 

Culloden,   101,    104,    105 ;   battle  of, 

106,  129,  295  ;  plan  of  battlefield, 
105  ;  Wood,  107. 

Culrain,  114. 

Culross  Church,  288. 

Cumberland,  Duke  of,  98,   101,  105, 

107,  108,  251,  272. 

Stone,  105. 

Cumin,  Mr.,  Inverary,  67. 
Cumins,  The,  101. 

Tower,  99. 

Cummerland,  276. 
Gumming,  Provost,  of  Altyre,  183. 
Cumnock  Castle,  31. 
Cunningham,  Sir  John,  58. 
Cupar,  Fife,  265,  277 ;  Cross,  265. 
Curds,  88. 
Curicle,  or  boat,  87. 
Custom-house  officer,  37. 
Cuthbert,  Mr.,  in. 
Cuthbert,  St.,  302,  317. 
Cutlery  ware,  Kinross,  278. 
Cyderhall,  168. 

DA  COSTA,  E.  M.,  xliii,  xlv. 
Dacres,  Lord,  349,  350. 
Dalgety,  283. 
Dalhousie  Castle,  313. 

Earl  of,  215. 

Dalkeith,  2,  314;  Church,  312;  Palace, 

312. 

Dalnacardoch,  233. 
Dalrymple,  Sir  David,  310. 

Sir  James,  13,  311. 

— -  Sir  John,  13. 
Dairy  mples,  12. 
Dalziel,  General,  315. 
Damsa,  144. 

Dancing,  round  corpse,  88. 
Danish  Kings'  tombs,  lona,  84. 
Dairmagh  (Darmach),  78. 
Dairsie  Church,  265,  266. 
Darnaway  Castle,  183. 
Darnick,  342. 
David,  King,  44. 
Dean  Castle,  60. 

Dee,  river,  20,  199,  2OI  ;  Bridge,  211. 
Deer,  Abbey  of,  196. 

Old,  Chapel,  197. 

Deer  destroying  trees,  68  ;  drive,  121  ; 

mouse,    138;    Gaelic  names,    119; 

red,  89,  117,   119,  120,   121,   126; 


red,  fawn,  killed  by  eagle,  124  ;  red, 

kill  adders,  126;  roe,  68,  117,  119. 
Delvine,  225. 
Dennys,  St.,  324. 
Denoon  Castle,  218. 
Dermoch,  Bishop,  291. 
Dervorgilla,  8,  18,  27,  30,  223. 
Deskford,  Lord,  194. 
Detersunt,  95. 

Deveron,  river,  194,  195,  196. 
Dingwall,  108,  109,  176,  178. 
Dionard,  river,  124. 
Dish,  with  embossed  work,  241. 
Diver,  black-throated,  117. 
Dog,  sheep,  140. 
Doll  of  Brora,  165. 
Donaghadee,  4,  II. 
Donald's  Island,  116. 
Donaldson,  Professor  Alexander,  208. 
Donibristle  House,  283. 
Doir-a-Chata,  115. 
Don,  river,  199,  200,  209,  210. 
Dornoch,    129,    134,    167 ;  Cathedral, 

168;  Palace,  168;  Firth,  in,  115, 

117,  168,  219. 
Doune,  114. 
Douglas,  Bishop,  226. 

Archibald,  Earl  of,  48. 

Duke  of,  22,  43,  224. 

Sir  James,  329. 

Douglas  coal,  41  ;  mill,  43. 
Drinking  healths,  88,  116,  118. 
Drogheda,  5. 
Druid  remains,  70,  77,  85,  86,  93,  94, 

102,    104,    141,     143,    211,    229,    236, 

276. 

Druids,  Isle  of,  85. 
Druid's  temples,  341. 
Drum,  310. 
Drumcondra,  5- 
Drumlanrig,  9. 
Drummond  Castle,  240,  243,  244. 

Lord  Provost,  2. 

Mr.,  239,  249. 

of  Lundin,  276. 

of  Hawthornden,  314. 

Drummuir,  Lady,  107. 
Drumsheugh,  310. 
Drumsturdy  Moor  Law,  222. 
Dryburgh,  Abbey  of,  330,  346. 
Drygrange,  342. 
Dry-stone  buildings,  185. 
Duart  Castle,  74. 
Dublin,  5. 

Ducarel,  Dr.,  xli,  xlv. 
Ducks,  wild,  116. 
Duddingston,  310. 
Dudhope,  224. 
Dufrus  Castle,  186. 


INDEX. 


363 


Duffus,  Lord,  186. 
Dumbarton,  3,  23,  61,  240. 
Dumfries,  7,  8,  20,  27,  30. 
Dumna,  115,  131. 
Dun  Ach'-an-Eas,  114. 

Alishaig,  in,  112,  114. 

Bar  Castle,  130. 

Dunbar,  2,  320;  battle  of,  315,  324  ; 

Castle,    319,    321;    Church,    320; 

Harbour,  322. 
— —  Bishop  Gavin,  204,  206. 

Earl  of,  320,  321. 

—  tomb,  321. 

Mr.  William,  162. 

—  Sir  Patrick,  158,  159. 

—  Sir  William,  160,  183. 
Dunbeath,  134,  163,  166. 
Dun  bhail  an  righ,  69. 
Dunblane,  241,  290,  291,  292,   293  ; 

Bishopric,    201 ;     Cathedral,    291, 

292 ;  Library,  292. 
Duncan,      Provost,     of      Mosstown, 

210. 

Rev.  Mr.,  3. 

Duncansbay  Head,  140,  155. 
Dun  Core,  115. 
Dundaff  Linn,  46. 
Dundalk,  5. 
Dundas,  Dr.,  3. 

Lord  President,  46,  313. 

Dundee,   222,   223 ;   large   windmill, 

222,  224. 

Lord,  229. 

Dundonald,  Lord,  54,  56. 
Dun  Dornadilla,  121,  122,  123. 
Dundrennan     Abbey,     22,     23,     24, 

279. 
Dunfermline,     191,     192,     283-288  ; 

Abbey,  284,  285,  286. 

Abbot  of,  281. 

Earl  of,  284. 

Dungavel  Hill,  43. 

Dunglass,    326  ;    Castle,  61  ;     Dean, 

325. 

Dunhead,  218. 
Duniquaich,  65. 
Dunkeld,   225,   226,   228,    229,    239 ; 

Cathedral,  226  ;    Duke  of  Athole's 

house,  226. 

Dun-mac-Sniachan,  70. 
Dunmore,  Lord,  290. 
Dunnottar,  209,  211,  212. 
Dunolly  Castle,  74. 
Dunoon,  90. 
Dun  Quarry,  214. 
Dunrobin,  166. 
Duns,  330. 

—  John  Scotus,  30. 
Dunsinane,  225,  248,  259. 


Dunstaffnage,  72,  73,  74,  99;  chess- 
man, 75 ;  Echo  rock,  74 ;  Scots 
kings'  vault,  74. 

Dun  Varrich,  130. 

Dupplin,  246,  247,  248,  249 ;  battle 
of,  256. 

Durcha,  115. 

Durham,  I. 

Durness,  124,  127. 

Duror,  96. 

Durrow,  78. 

Durward,  Sir  Alan,  213. 

Dwarfie  Stone,  135. 

Dyes,  Highland,  92. 

Dykehead,  37. 

Dysart,  281. 
—  Lord,  221. 

EAGLES,  27,  125,  135. 

Earl's  Cross,  167. 

Earn    Loch,    239 ;    river,    239,    243, 

244. 

Earnside  Forest,  263. 
Earthenwares,  52. 
Easdale,  Isle  of,  71. 
Ecclefechan,  7,  10,  37. 
Eck,  Loch,  90. 
Edderachylis  Bay,  113. 
Eden,  river,  265,  266,  278. 

Vale  of,  277. 

Edinburgh,    2,    299-307 ;    Advocates' 

Library,  307  ;  Arthur's  Seat,  305  ; 

Barony  of  Calton,  303  ;  Herbergare, 

301 ;  Holyrood,  301,  304;  Restalrig, 

303;    Silversmith,    210;    Sciennes 

Nunnery,  310. 

—  Castle,  305  ;  regalia  in,  306. 
Edward,  St.,  264. 
Eels,  131. 

Egfrid,  Bishop,  347. 
Eggs,  88,  94. 
Eglinton,  Earl  of,  57,  58. 
Eigg,  Isle  of,  93. 
Eildon  Hills,  342. 
Eilean  an  Stalcair,  95. 
—  Donuil,  1 1 6. 

Vhou,  63. 

Eil,  Loch,  98. 

Eirke,  1. 

Elan,  St.,  319. 

Elcho,  249,  259. 

Elderslie,  53. 

Elgin,  188,  190,  191  ;  Cathedral,  188, 

189. 

-  Earl  of,  Iv,  184,  286,  289. 
Elie,  275. 

Law,  ancient  burial,  275,  276. 

Elliot,  Captain,  280. 

Mr. ,  of  Lochgelly,  280. 


364 


INDEX. 


Ellon,  199. 

Elphinston,  Bishop,  2051  207. 

Sir  James,  264. 

Elvanfoot,  10,  40. 

Engelwood  Forest,  36. 

Engines,  large  pumping,  281. 

Ennard,  Loch,  115. 

Episcopi  Lismorenses,  90,  205. 

Ereska  Isle,  91. 

Ericht  Loch,  233. 

Erribol  Bay,  129;  Loch,  124,  128. 

Errickstane,  IO,  40. 

Errig,  65. 

Errol,  259. 

Earl  of,  198,  199. 

Erskine,  Charles,  of  Alva,  290. 

John,  of  Cardross,  241. 

Lord,  290. 

Mr.,  of  Dun,  214. 

Mrs. ,  304. 

Esk,   North,  212;   South,  212,  217; 

river  guide,  20,  36,  313. 
Esquimaux,  138. 
Essex,  1 8. 
Etal,  349. 
Ettrick,  river,  343. 
Evicting  tenants,  97. 
Evie,  142. 
Ewe,  Loch,  115. 
Ewin,  King,  74. 
Experiment,  the  war-ship,  129. 
Eyemouth,  328. 

FACTOR  SHOT,  97. 

Fairbairn  House,  178. 

Fair  Isle,  153. 

Fairs,  1 8. 

Falkirk,  3;  battle  of,   176,  295,  296  ; 

Tryst,  295. 
Falkland,  265,  277. 
Fara,  Isle  of,  134,  151. 
Farmer,  Captain,  129. 
Faroe,  155. 
Farout  Head,  124. 
Farquhard,  Earl  of  Ross,  170. 
Farr,  Bay  of,  119,  130;  Church,  131. 
Fast  Castle,  325,  327. 
Fast  Day,  59. 

Fearn  Abbey,  170,  171,  175. 
Feldice,  Thomas,  2. 
Ferguson,  Mr.,  of  Pitfour,  197. 
Ferry  town,  18,  19. 
Ferryport,  Mull,  77. 
Fife,  Earls  of,  194,  265,  288,  319. 
Findhorn,  river,  183,  185. 
Findlater,  Earl  of,  3,  193. 
Finlaggan  Loch,  93. 
Finlay,  Bishop,  291. 
Fir  boards,  price  of,  238. 


Fisher  families,  166. 

Fitty  Loch,  280. 

Flannel,  n. 

Flax,  101. 

Fleet,  His  Majesty's,  107. 

river,  20,  167. 

Flemming,  Prior,  15. 
Fletcher,  Mr.,  5. 

Lord  Milton,  316. 

Rev.  David,  340. 

Flodden,  battle  of,  328,  349,  350. 
Flood,  F.  W.,  1. 
Floors  Castle,  329. 
Flota  Isle,  134,  150,  151. 
Fochabers,  192,  193. 
Font  Church,  17. 
Food  in  Durness,  127. 
Forbes,  Bishop  Patrick,  205. 

Robert,  97,  109. 

—  Lord  President,  105,  180,  313. 

Master  of,  192. 

—  Mr.,  129,  130. 
Ford  Castle,  349,  350. 
Fordel,  Glen,  283. 
Fordyce,  Mr.,  2. 

Forest,  Earl  of  Sutherland's,  Ii8. 
Forfar,  217. 
Forglen,  195. 
Forres,  183  ;  Pillar,  184. 
Forrester,  Lord,  299. 
Forsyth,  Rector  Thomas,  51. 
Fort  Augustus,  99,  100,  101,  no. 
Forteviot  Castle,  257. 
Fort  George,  104,  no,  180. 
Fortingall,  237  ;  ancient  ewer,  237. 
Fortrose,  104,  180. 
Fort  William,  62,  63,  64,  68,  71,  72, 

91,  98,  99. 
Fossils,  165,  241,  282,  295,  316,  323, 

324- 

Foulis,  109,  176. 

Fowlis  Church,  224,  260. 

Foxes,  26,  1 1 6. 

Foyers,  Fall  «f,  101. 

Foyle,  64. 

France,  King  of,  100 ;  tomb  of,  84. 

Fraser  of  Foyers,  IOI. 

of  Gorthleg,  107. 

of  Reelick,  180. 

Dr.,  of  Achnagairn,  178,  180. 

picture  of,  207. 

Provost,  W.  S.,i68. 

Fraserburgh,  198. 

Frau,  Fro',  or  Froth,  116. 

Frazer,  Dr.  W.,  xlix. 

Freedom  of  burghs,  liii;  Aberdeen, 210; 
Dornoch,  168 ;  Forres,  183;  Glas- 
gow? 3  >  Kirkwall,  150;  Lanark,  47; 
Nairn,  182  ;  Perth,  253  ;  Tain,  169. 


INDEX. 


365 


French  privateer,  129, 

Freuchie  Loch,  239. 

Friend,  Dr.,  234. 

Frieze,  n. 

Fruit,  when  ripe,  169. 

Furze,  32. 

Fyne,  Loch,  90. 

GALACH  LAW,  315. 
Galashiels,  342. 
Galley,  100 
Galloway,  8,  n,  12. 
—  Earls  of,  12,  16,  18,  19,  20,  23, 
24,  27,  150,  151,  223. 
Gannet,  126,  320. 
Garlais  Castle,  19. 
Garmouth,  184. 
Garnock,  river,  57. 
Garry,  Loch,  too. 

River,  229,  233. 

Garth  Castle,  234. 

Garvie  Island,  298. 

Gatehouse  of  Fleet,  20. 

Gattonside,  342. 

Geanies,  172. 

Geese,  wild,  116,  126,  320. 

Gerard,  Professor  Alexander,  208. 

Giant's  Causeway,  5,  77. 

Gibb,  architect,  202. 

Giese,  133. 

Gifford,  316. 

Gigha,  92. 

Giles,  St.,  300. 

Girnigoe  Castle,  1 60,  161. 

Girvan,  4. 

Glamis,  217,  2 1 8,  219. 

Lords  of,  218. 

Glasgow,  3,  4,  47,  48,  49,  5°.  5*.  52, 

60 ;  College,  52,  2^09. ' 
Glass  bottles,  52. 
Glass,  Rev.  John,  223. 
Glasserton,  14. 

Glean  Beallach  na  Meirlach,  121. 
Glenbeg,  93,  113. 
Glencairn,  Earl  of,  60. 
Glencaple,  30. 
Glencoe,  97. 
Glencoul,  Loch,  113. 
Glencroe,  64. 
Glendevon,  279. 
Glenelg,  93. 
Glen  Finnan,  98. 

—  Fyne,  64. 

—  Garry,  100,  101. 
Glengonar,  river,  43. 
Glengowlay,  233. 
Glenluce,  n,  12. 

—  Lord,  13. 
Glenlyon,  236. 


I    Glenmoriston,  100. 

Laird  of,  101. 

Spinning  School,  114. 

Glenmuick,  114. 

Glenshee,  225. 

Glenteyral,  30. 

Glimsholm,  151. 

Gloves,  139,  197. 

Goats  eating  adders,  126. 

Gold,  43,  100  ;  ornament,  213. 

Goodall,  Mr.,  of  Advocates'  Library, 

308. 

Gooseberries,  151. 
Gordon,  Abbot,  12. 

Bishop,  12,  204,  246. 

Castle,  184,  193. 

—  Dean  John,  12. 

—  Dukes  of,  193,  199,  316. 

—  General,  daughter  of,  241. 
Louisa,  12. 

Mr.,  130,  176. 

Professor  George,  208. 

Thomas,  208. 


Sir  John,  176. 


Sir  Robert,  12,  185,  186. 

Gordonstoun,  186. 
Gosfrid,  Abbot,  284. 
Gottenburgh,  17. 
Govan,  53. 
Gowrie,  225. 

Carse  of,  259. 

—  Earl,  251. 
Graham,  Bishop,  248,  270. 

Mr.,  of  Graemeshall,  151,  153. 

of  Balgonie,  247. 

Grampton,  Mr.,  40. 
Grandtully,  225. 
Grant  Castle,  68,  184. 

Rev.  Dr.,  2. 

Sir  Archibald,  200,  201. 

Granton,  Moffat,  40. 

Graves,  Rev.  James,  xlix,  Ivii. 

Gray,  Lord,  224,  260. 

Lady,  250. 

Master  of,  284. 

Groemsay,  137,  140. 

Gregory,  Professor  John,  208,  271. 

Greenland  fishery,  155. 

Gretna  Green,  6,  35,  36,  37. 

Grierson,  John,  223. 

Grim,  Ben,  132. 

Grimbister  Holm,  144. 

Grouse,  26,  89. 

Gulls,  158,  198. 

HADDINGTON,  317,  318. 

Earls  of,  Ixiii,  276,  305,  318,  320. 

Hadrian,  St.,  274. 
Hakon,  Earl,  137. 


366 


INDEX. 


Halladale,  132. 
Haltwhistle,  36. 
Hamilton,  4,  47,  48. 

Abbot,  170,  221. 

Dr.,  2. 

Dukes  of,  22,  47,  48,  304. 

Lord  Claud,  56. 

Mr.,  4. 

Hampshire,  24. 
Hares,  68,  116. 
Harlaw,  battle  of,  199. 
Harris,  91,  92,  94. 
Hartfell  Spa,  39. 
Harvey,  Alexander,  52. 
Hawkhead,  56. 
Hawks,  193. 
Haworth  Castle,  36. 
Hawthornden,  2,  314. 
Hay,  Sir  Thomas,  13. 

—  Sir  William,  317. 
Hay's  battle,  Luncarty,  248. 
Hays  of  Mugdrum,  260,  262,  263. 
Hazard  sloop,  129. 
Hazlewood,  60. 
Hedderwick  House,  214. 
Heddle,  Mr.,  151. 
Helmet,  88,  289. 
Helmsdale,  164. 
Henderson,  a  painting,  316. 

Sir  Robert,  282. 

Hepburn,  Prior  John,  271. 

Herbergare,  301. 

Hermit's  cell,  136,  209. 

Herring,  II,  71,  214. 

Hexham,  I. 

Heyington,  Dr.,  223. 

Highland  cabins,  116,  127  ;  dyes,  92  ; 

hospitality,  118;  manners,  116. 
Hobgoblin  Hall,  316. 
Hoddam,  7,  33,  34. 
Hoghmanstains,  256. 
Hogs,  small,  139. 
Holborn  Head,  134. 
Holly-tree,  large,  263. 
Holy  Island,  I. 

Holyrood,  2,  8,  71,  78,  278,  301,  304. 
Holy  Sepulchre,  8l. 
Home,  Earls  of,  43,  320. 

Sir  George,  320. 

Honeyman,  Archdeacon,  137. 
Hope,  Loch,  124,  129. 

Mr.,  298. 

Hopetoun,  3,  51,  297. 

Earls  of,  3,  10,  38,  41,  247,  297, 

298. 

Lady,  3. 

Horses,  4,   n,  68,  76,  86,  88,  129, 

154. 
Horsley,  109,  115. 


Houten  Head,  135. 
Howard  Castle,  195. 
Howgate  Pass,  43. 
Hoy  Island,  135,  137. 
Hoys,  4. 

Hudson's  Bay,  138. 
Hunda,  151. 
Huntingtower,  247,  252. 

Earl  of,  263. 

Huntly,  Lord,  187. 
Hut,  General  Wade's,  101. 
Hyde,  Mrs.,  5. 
Hynd  Castle,  219. 
Hyndford,  Lord,  44. 

ICELAND,  154,  155. 
Inchaffray  Abbey,  246,  247. 
Inchcolm,  2,  298. 
Inchcoulter,  177. 
Inchkeith,  2. 
Inchmurrin,  62. 
Inchtuthil,  225. 
Indians,  138. 
Indies,  East,  103. 
Indigo,  51,  57. 
Inisch  Drunish,  85. 
Inischonel,  68. 
Inkle  wares,  52. 
Innerpeffary,  245. 
Innerwick  Castle,  325. 
Innes  House,  192. 

John,  Elgin,  190. 

Mr.,  of  Sandside,  133. 

Sir  Harry,  192. 

Inveraray,  63,  64,  65,  132,  177  ;  cross, 

85- 

Inverawe,  68. 
Inverbervie,  212. 
Invercarron,  169. 
Inveresk,  2,  311. 
Invergarry  Castle,  100. 
Invergordon,  175. 
Inverhope,  129. 
Inverkeithing,  283. 
Inverlochy,  72,  99. 
Invermoriston,  101. 
Inverness,   93,    101,    102,    103,    104, 

107,  no,  115,  180,  219. 
Inversaddell,  98. 
Inversnaid  Fort,  63. 
Inverteil  Quarry,  281. 
Inveruglass,  63. 
Inverury,  200. 
lona,  66,  77-89,  93  ;  last  Abbess  of, 

86;  monuments,  82-86. 
Ireland,  students  from,  52. 
Irish  kings'  tombs,  84. 
Iron,  17,  25,  70,  74,  76,  77,  93,   137, 

153,  200,  326;  wares,  52. 


INDEX. 


367 


Irvine,  56,  57. 
Irwin,  Colonel,  278. 
Isla,  river,  225. 
Islay,  77,  93. 
Isle  of  Man,  79,  81. 

Druids,  85. 

Isles,  Bishops  of  the,  69,  79. 

Lord  of  the,  71. 

Islesburgh,  154. 
Itinerary,  351-357. 
Ivers,  Ralph,  340. 
Ivory,  138. 

JAMES  iv.,  penance  chain,  350. 

v.,  95. 

vi.,  picture  of,  193. 

Jasper,  198,  305. 
Jedburgh,  343;  Abbey,  217,  344. 
Jocelyn,  Bishop,  49. 
John-o'-Groat's  House,  155. 
Johnson,  Dunkeld,  227. 
Johnston,  Lord,  38. 

Mr.  James,  39. 

Picture  of,  207. 

Sir  Theodore,  38. 

Joiat,  Richard,  254. 
Jorfiara,  Castle  of,  138. 
Jura,  71,  93. 
Justices  of  Peace,  88,  89,  97. 

KAIL,  127. 
Keating,  Dr.,  84. 
Keith,  184. 

Family  of,  197,  209. 

Hall,  200. 

Sir  William,  212. 

Keith's  collection  of  coins,  208. 

Kellie  Castle,  276. 

Kelp,  93,  139. 

Kelso  Abbey,  57,  326,  343. 

Keltney  Burn,  234. 

Kenmay,  200. 

Kenmore,  235. 

Kennedy,  Bishop,  270,  271,  272. 

Castle,  4,  12. 

Mr.,  of  Montrose,  213. 

Professor  William,  208. 

Kentick  Hill,  43,  44. 
Ker,  Sir  Andrew,  345. 

Sir  Mark,  313. 

: Sir  Robert,  329. 

Sir  Walter,  313. 

Kerian,  St.,  his  staff,  Ixvii. 
Kerrara  Island,  71. 
Kerwick  Bay,  125,  126. 
Kiel,  70. 
Kier,  river,  31. 
Kilchurn  Castle,  68. 
Kilcolmkill,  70,  96. 


Kilkenny,  n. 
Killiecrankie,  229,  231. 
Killin,  64. 
Kilmacalmuag,  113. 
Kilmare,  114. 
Kilmarnock,  4,  57,  58,  60. 

Lady,  4. 

Earl  of,  4,  198. 

Kilmaronock,  3. 
Kilpatrick,  New,  60. 
—  Old,  60. 

—  Roger,  30. 
Kilravock,  181,  193. 
Kilrenny,  274. 
Kilrule,  167. 
Kilrymont,  297. 
Kilwinning  Abbey,  56,  57. 
Kincardine  Church,  113  ;  Castle,  243. 
Kindeace,  175,  180. 

Kinfauns,  250. 
King,  Dr.,  332. 
Kinghorn,  282,  284. 

—  Wester,  284. 
Kinglass,  65. 
Kingsbarns,  273. 
King's  Inch,  53. 
Kinloss  Abbey,  184,  196. 
Kinnaird,  198,  214. 
Kinneder,  186. 
Kinnoull,  259. 

Lord,  249. 

Kinross,  278. 
Kinsale,  138. 
Kintore,  200. 

Earl  of,  200. 

Kippenross,  292. 
Kippilaw,  342. 
Kirkby  Stephen,  36. 
Kirkcaldy,  281,  284. 
Kirkcudbright,  20,  22. 
Kirkgunzeon,  26. 
Kirkheugh,  273,  294. 
Kirkhill  Church,  178. 
Kirkintilloch,  52. 
Kirkness,  280. 

Kirkpatrick-Fleming  Church,  37. 
Kirkpatrick,  Sir  Roger,  7. 
Kirkurd,  343. 
Kirkwall,  134,  137,  I44-I53- 

Provost  of,  150. 

Kirtle,  river,  10,  37. 

Kismul,  93. 

Knitting  in  Orkney,  138. 

Knock,  77. 

Kol,  Norwegian,  145. 

Konlikan,  author  of,  180. 

LAIRG,  118. 

Laing,  Bishop  John,  51. 


368 


INDEX. 


Lamberton,  Bishop,  269,  274. 

Hill,  328. 

Lambholm,  151. 
Lanark,  43-47. 

Monastery,  44. 

Lanercost  Abbey,  36. 

Lang,  Mr.,  266. 

Langside,  56. 

Larch,  42,  228,  230. 

Largo  Bay,  275. 

Lascelles,  Colonel,  62. 

Laton,  Sir  Bryan,  340. 

Lauder,  Bishop,  226. 

Lawers  House,  244. 

Laws,  Mr.,  89. 

Leadhills,  41. 

Lead-mines,  10,  19,  41,  42,  64,  93, 

283,  341 ;  pipe,  241 ;  smelting,  41  ; 

white,  42. 
Lees  Abbey,  328. 
Le  Hazard,  privateer,  129. 
Leighton,  Bishop,  188,  206,  292. 
Leith,    2,    308,    309 ;    St   Anthony's 

Monastery,  309. 
Lely,  Sir  Peter,  312,  316. 
Lennox,  Countess  of,  61. 
Leslie,  276,  277. 

— -  Professor  John,  208. 
Lettersuna,  95. 
Leucopibia,  city  of,  14. 
Leven,  276. 

-  Earl  of,  265,  276,  277. 

—  Loch,  Argyle,  97. 

Loch,  Kinross,  278,  279. 

Levenside,  61. 
Lewis  Island,  94,  125. 
Lincluden,  8. 
Lindores  Abbey,  263. 

Lord,  263. 

Lindsay,  David, "of  Glenesk,  250. 

James,  30. 

Lord  of  Byres,  212. 

Linen,  17,  37,  52,  53,  101,  144,  193, 

194,  197,  212,  214,  218,  220,  223, 

239,  281,  282,  287,  311,  312,  323. 
Ling,  88,  145,  153. 
Lingay  Island,  91,  92,  93. 
Linnhe,  Loch,  91. 
Linlithgow,  3,  47,  296,  297. 
Lismore  Island,  72,  90,  91. 

Dean  of,  88. 

Littlegill,  43. 
Loadstone,  93. 
Loaghal,  Loch,  120,  130. 
Lobsters,  14,  152. 
Lochaber,  98. 
Loch  Awe,  68. 

Cautie,  10. 

Cure,  31. 


Lochend  Quarry,  315. 
Lochendwood,  317. 
Loch  Etive,  68,  69. 

Fyne,  65. 

Lochgelly,  280,  281. 
LochiePs  house,  98,  99. 
Lochleven  Castle,  25,  258. 

Priory,  269. 

Loch  Lomond,  3,  65. 

Long,  64. 

Loyal,  130. 

Lochmaben,  38. 

Stone,  35. 

Loch  Nadir,  24. 
Lochnell  House,  Ji, 
Loch  of  the  Lowes,  343. 
Lochrutton,  9. 
Loch  Ryan,  n. 

Scriden,  76. 

Shiel,  98. 

Spelvie,  76. 

Urr,  31. 

Lochwood  Castle,  38. 

Loch  Lochy,  91. 

Lockerbie,  10,  38. 

Loinid  (a  whisk),  116. 

Lomond,  Ben,  63. 

Lomonds,  the,  278. 

Longevity,  93,  177,  242. 

Long  Hope,  151.          . 

Longormes,  Lord  of,  12. 

Longtown,  36,  37. 

Lorn,  Lords  of,  69. 

Lossie,  river,  188,  190. 

Loth,  164. 

Lothbeg,  164. 

Lothmore,  164. 

Lothian,  Marquis  of,  312,  313,  345. 

Loudon  Castle,  59. 

—  Lord,  244. 
Lovatt,  Lord,  IOI,  107,  108,  178,  179. 

—  Monument,  179. 
Lowther  Hall,  36. 

-  Hills,  40. 
Luce  Abbey,  12. 
Lumsden,  Professor  John,  208. 
Luncarty,  battle  of,  248. 
Lundin  House,  276. 
Luss  Castle,  62. 
Lussa,  river,  76. 
Lyar,  140. 

Lychtoun,  Bishop,  206. 
Lyon,  Mr.,  2. 

River,  234,  238. 

Lyons  Castle,  260. 

Lyttelton,  Rev.  Dr.  Charles,  Iviii,  Ixi. 

MACBETH,  98,  225,  248. 
MacCoull,  Duncan,  69. 


INDEX. 


369 


MacCulloch,  Rev.  Robert,  164. 
MacCullochs,  The,  20. 
MacDonalds  of  Glengarry,  100. 
Macdonalcl,  Rev.  Murdo,  128,  129. 

of  the  Isles,  82,  93. 

of  Clanranald,  85. 

MacDougalls  of  Lorn,  69. 
MacDowal,  Ronald,  12. 

Uchtred,  12. 

Macduff  s  Cross,  262,  263. 
Macduff,  Lord,  195. 
Macfarlanes,  Laird  of,  63,  64. 
MacFingone's  tombs,  82. 
MacKail,  Dr.,  135. 
MacKay,  Captain,  130,  132. 

Colonel  Hugh,  113. 

Elizabeth,  113. 

General,  229. 

—  George,  of  Bighouse,  113. 
Janet,  113. 

Lieutenant  James,  132. 

Mr.,  129,  169,  175. 

Rev.  Thomas,  118. 

Mackays,  a  loyal  clan,  128. 
Mackenzie,  Bishop,  149. 

Catherine,  118- 

George,  109. 

—  Sir  George,  313. 
Mackerel,  14,  25. 
MacLean  (aged  180),  93. 
MacLean's  tomb,  83. 
MacLeod,  Duncan,  69. 

of  Assynt,  114. 

of  Cadboll,  172. 

ofGeanies,  172,  175. 

of  Hamir,  Ivii. 

Laird  of,  94. 

Professor  Roderick,  208. 

Rev.  Neil,  77. 

MacPherson,  Rev.  John,  89. 

Rev.  Martin,  Iviii. 

Madderty  church,  245. 

Lord,  245,  246. 

Maelpatrick  Stone,  84. 

Magdalene,  New,  214. 

Maid's  fillet,  117. 

Mair,  Rev.  Mr.,  278. 

Malcomson,  Robert,  19. 

Malt,  103. 

Man,  Bishop  of,  81. 

Isle  of,  79,  8 1. 

Mansfield,  289. 

Map,  Cromwell's,  19,  26 ;  Dorret's, 
!37, 199, 343 ;  New,  26, 31, 34, 35,  S3. 
58,  69,  101,  103,  no,  115,  131,  163, 
164,  172,  175,  180,  192,  195^  196, 
198,  199,  219;  Quartermasters',  19; 
Richards',  26. 

Mar,  Earl  of,  201,  241,  256,  290,  292. 


Marble,    71,    82,    98,   124,   194,   199, 

282. 

March,  Earl  of,  256,  321,  328. 
Margaret,  Queen,  284,  285. 
Marise  de  Trayl,  23. 
Marischal,  Earl,   196,  197,  200,  203, 

211. 

College,  203. 

Markland,  9. 

Markham,  Sir  Michael,  280. 
Massacre  of  Glencoe,  97. 
Marten's  skins,  138. 
Martin's  voyages,  94. 
Martin,  St.,  318. 
Maxwell,  Bishop,  148. 

John,  25. 

-  Sir  H.  E.,  14. 
Sir  Thomas,  26. 

—  Sir  William,  14. 
Maxwells,  the,  20,  31,  34. 
Mary,  Queen,   25,  34,  56,  258,  279, 

3ii. 

May  Island,  274. 
Meadie,  Loch,  120. 
Megginch  Castle,  259,  260. 
Mein,  river,  37. 
Meldrum,  Old,  199. 
Mellerstain,  332. 
Melrose,  49. 

Abbey,  336-340. 

chronicle  of,  24,  34  *• 

Earl  of,  336. 

Melsetter,  151. 

Melville,  277. 

Member  of  Parliament,  47,  108. 

Memnon,  statue  of,  74,  125. 

Menteith,  225,  241. 

Menzies,  Sir  Robert,  238. 

Methven,  247  ;  battle  of,  249. 

Middleby,  6,  33,  37. 

Middleton,  Mr.,  of  Seaton,  209. 

Miles,  English,   113,  121 ;  Highland, 

"3- 

Millcraig,  in. 
Miller,  Abbot,  294. 

George,  169. 

Milles,  Dean,  xxxvi,  Ix,  Ixvi. 

Rev.  Isaac,  xxxi,  xxxii,  xxxiii. 

Milligan,  Dr.,  39. 

Milnathort,  278. 

Milton,  Lord  Fletcher,  316. 

Mineral  wells,  66,  76,  93,  228,  349 

Mitchell,  Mr.,  3. 

Moak,  St.,  278. 

Modan,  Bishop,  69. 

Moffat,  9,  34,  38,  39,  4°- 

Round  Forts,  39,  4°- 

Moine,  the,  124,  126,  129,  132. 
Molendinar  Burn,  49. 


370 


INDEX. 


Monan,  St.,  274. 

Monance,  St.,  265. 

Monar,  Loch,  114. 

Moncrieff,  Rev.  Alexander,  262. 

Monk,  General,  222. 

Monkshill,  223. 

Montrose,  212,  213,  214. 

Duke  of,  243. 

Marquis  of,  99,  114,  163,  249. 

Muir,  213. 

Monymusk,  200,  201. 

Moodie,  Captain,  134,  151,  153. 

Commodore,  151. 

Mr.,  151. 

Moray,  Earl  of,    104,  183,  264,  282, 

283. 

Morays  of  Abercairney,  247. 
More,  Elizabeth,  54. 

Sir  Adam,  54. 

Moreville,  Hugh,  56. 

Moriston,  river,  101. 

Morpeth,  i. 

Morton,  Earl  of,  150,  283,  312,  336. 

Morven,  89. 

Mount  Tabor,  97. 

Mudale,  120,  130,  164. 

Mugdrum  Cross,  262. 

House,  262. 

Muir  of  Ord,  no. 

Mull,  74,  76,  87,  88,  89,  90,  115. 

Funerals,  88. 

Munches,  25. 
Mundik,  41,  326. 
Munro,  Alexander,  13. 
Bailie  Donald,  169. 

—  Mr.,  Achany,  115,  117. 

Mr.,  of  Culcairn,  no,  176. 

—  Rev.  George,  131. 
Rev.  James,  185. 

Sir  Harry,   109,   176,   177,    178, 

1 80. 

Sir  Robert,  176,  179. 


Murdo,  John,  Architect,  49,  50,  339. 

Murkle,  158. 

Murray,  Bishop  Gilbert,  167. 

—  Captain  John,  M.P.,  227. 

-  Lady,  332. 

Lord  George,  227,  242. 

Mr.  James,  133. 

Sir  David,  242,  258. 

Sir  Patrick,  244. 

Murthlach,  204. 
Murthly,  225. 
Musselburgh,  2,  310,  311. 
Muthill,  242. 

NAIRN,  109,  182. 

river,  107,  182,  193. 

Naver,  Loch,  119,  130,  131. 


Navidale,  164. 
Nectanus,  Bishop,  204. 
New  Deer,  196. 
Ness,  Loch,  100,  103. 

river,  103. 

Netherby,  36. 
Nevin,  Rev.  Mr.,  5. 
New  Abbey,  8,  28,  29. 

Lord  of,  28. 

Newbattle  Abbey,  312. 
Newburgh,  260,  262,  263. 

Witches,  263. 

New  Hailes,  310. 
Newhaven,  308. 
Newry,  5. 

Newstead  Abbey,  341. 
Newtown,  41. 

Fifeshire,  264. 

Perthshire,  239. 

Newtown  Stewart,  12,  19. 

Nicholson,  Mr.,  315. 

Nigg,  173- 

Nith,  river,  7,  9,  20,  30. 

Nithsdale,  7,  30,  31. 

Norden,  Mr.,  xxxvii. 

Norfolk,  1 8. 

Norham  Castle,  347  ;  Church,  348. 

North  Berwick  Law,  318  ;   Nunnery, 

319. 

Northumberland,  Countess  of,  318. 
Norwegian  Kings'  Tombs,  84. 

ancient  oval  brooch,  91. 

Norwegians,  99. 
Norwich,  18. 
Noth  Hill,  201. 
Nottingham  yarn,  194. 

OBAN,  71,  74. 
Obelisk,  109,  282. 
O'Brien,  Captain,  129. 
Ochtertyre,  244. 
Ogilvy,  Lady  Anne,  178. 

Sir  Alexander,  195. 

Oich,  Loch,  99. 
Old  Cambus,  2. 

Deer,  196. 

Oliphant,  Lord,  251,  255. 

Omhan,  whisked  cream,  169. 

O'Phelan,  John,  xlix. 

Oransay  Island,  93. 

Ord,  the,  163. 

Ore,  Loch,  246,  280. 

Orkney,  126,  131,  134,  151. 

Bishop  of,  148. 

Earls  of,  137,  142,  148,  149,  150. 

Orphir,  137. 
Orton,  19,  32,  36. 
Osnaburg  cloths,  220,  223,  289. 
Ossory,  Bishop  of,  xlvii,  Ixiii. 


INDEX. 


371 


Otterburn,  340. 
Oxen,  1 8. 
Oykel,  river,  113. 
Oysters,  25,  77,  152. 

PAISLEY,  53. 

Abbey,  55. 

Bailie  of,  56. 

Lord,  56. 

Panmure,  Lord,  215,   216,   217,   219, 

220,  221. 

—  House,  219. 
Panter,  Patrick,  213. 
Papa  Westray,  149. 
Paul,  Earl,  137. 
Paulet,  Lady  Catherine.  239. 
Pease  bread,  178. 
Pebbles,  87,  311. 
Peebles,  47,  343. 
Pendragon  Castle,  36. 
Penicuik,  314. 
Pennyland,  133. 
Penrith,  i,  32,  36. 
Pentland  Firth,  140,  153. 

—  Hills,  314. 
Percy,  Sir  Henry,  340. 
Perth,     250,    257 ;     battle    of,    257 ; 
trade,     252 ;    writs    and    charters, 

2S3-255- 

Earl  of,  239,  243. 

Peterhead,  197,  198,  2 1 1. 
Peterkin,  Rev.  William,  42. 
Philamorte  dye,  92. 
Picts'  house,  95,  in,  133,   135,   137, 

156,  157,  158,  163,  164,  166,  276. 
Picture  of  James  vi.,  193. 
Pigeon's  egg,  petrified,  198. 
•         house,  136. 
Piggin  of  cream,  1 16. 
Pikes,  ancient,  323. 
Pinkie  House,  311. 
Pitcairn,  Secretary,  284. 
Pitfour,  197. 
Pitmedden,  199. 
Pittenweem,  274. 
Plomp,  35. 

Plummer,  Professor,  39. 
Pluscardine  Priory,  187,  190,  191. 
Pococke  on  the  Flood,  Ivii. 
Polecat,  26.- 
Pomona  Isle,  134,  135. 
Poole,  General,  102,  104. 

Lady,  102. 

Portland,  Duke  of,  36. 
Portmoag,  278. 
Port  na  Churiach,  87. 
Port  na  Crois,  95. 
Portpatrick,  4,  1 1 . 
Portsoy,  194. 


Port  Sonachan,  68. 

Portus  Salutis,  175. 

Port-Yerrock,  14. 

Postman,  speed  of,  127,  128. 

Potatoes,  introduction  of,  128. 

Pow,  river,  146. 

Powan,  63. 

Powton,  1 8. 

Prestonpans,  2  ;  battle  of,  177,  311. 

Pretender,    the,   98,    100,    105,     107, 

129,  314. 
Prett's  Mill,  44. 

Pringle,  Mr.,  of  Stitchell,  328. 

Sir  Robert,  330. 

Pultney's  Regiment,  105,  107. 
Pynoree,  255. 
Pyrus  Aria,  72. 

QUARRYWOOD,  191. 

Queensberry,  Duke  of,  9,  10,  39,  41. 

Queensferry,  283,  298. 

RABY  CASTLE,  36. 
Radcliffe  Library,  Ixvi,  180. 
Ralph,  Bishop,  347. 
Rannoch,  Loch,  233,  238. 
Ramsay,  Sir  John,  318. 
Raths  in  Ireland,  118. 
Rats,  none  in  Sutherland,  120. 
Ratter,  153,  155. 
Ravenstruther,  45. 
Raymore,  104. 
Reay,  131,  133. 

—  Lord,   113,    121,   124,    128,  129, 

130,  131,  169. 

Master  of,  130. 

Regalia  of  Scotland,  306. 
Regulus,  St.,  267. 
Reid,  Bishop,  148,  178. 

—  John,  169. 

—  Professor  Thomas,  208. 
Reilig  Orain,  84. 
Renfrew,  53. 

Rents  paid  in  cattle,  128. 
Repentance  Tower,  34. 
Reregonium,  II. 
Restalrig,  303,  310. 
'  Rest  and  be  Thankful,'  64. 
Restenet  Church,  216,  217. 

Kinross,  279- 

Reuda,  61. 
Reynell,  Mrs.,  5. 

Rev.  W. ,  xliv. 

Ribton,  Sir  George,  5. 
Richard,  Bishop,  252. 

of  Cirencester,  26,  no. 

Richmond,  I. 

Duke  of,  193. 

Risa  Isle,  134,  151. 


372 


INDEX. 


Rivaulx,  23. 

Rizzio,  murder  of,  304. 

Road,  proposed,  121. 

Rob  Bonn,  126. 

Robert  the  Bruce,  35,  44,  83. 

Roberton,  43. 

Robertson,  J.  G.,  lix. 

of  Struan,  238. 

—  Mr.,  224. 
Robinson,  Dr.,  181. 

—  Mr.,  I. 

Rock  of  Lamentation,  114. 

Roderick  the  Impostor,  94. 

Rogasch,  King,  278. 

Rognvald,  Earl,  137,  145. 

Roman  works,  6,  33,  34,  35,  38,  45, 

46,  52,  53.  57,  60,  240,  246,  249, 

280,  298,  299,  314,  344. 
Rossie,  Loch,  278. 
Rona  Island,  125. 
Ronaldshaw,  134,  149,  153. 
Rooing  wool,  139. 
Ropes,  57. 
Roscorriel,  25. 
Rose  of  Kilravock,  181. 
Rosebery,  Lord,  308. 
Rosehall,  113-115,  168. 
Rosemarkie,  no. 
Roslin,  battles  of,  314. 
Chapel,  2,  314. 

—  Lady,  310. 

Ross,  Commissary,  174. 

—  Countess  of,  301. 

—  Duncan  of  Kindeace,  175,  180. 

—  Bailie,  169. 

—  Earl  of,  56,  170. 

—  Euphemia,  54. 
General,  175. 

—  Provost  David,  169. 

—  Rev.  Mr.,  130. 

—  Sir  John  C.,  46. 
Ross-dhu,  62. 
Rossal,  76,  77. 
Rosyth  Castle,  298. 

Rothes,  Earl  of,  263,  276,  277. 

Rothesay,  Duke  of,  263. 

Rotundo  Chapel,  137. 

Round  Towers,  215,  261. 

Roxburgh,  Duke  of,  304,  324,  329. 

Roy  Castle,  184. 

Royston,  308. 

Rubies,  Elie,  275. 

Ruchill,  river,  243,  244. 

Rufane,  Major,  3,  4. 

Rules,  St.,  267. 

Rullion  Green,  314. 

Russel,  Jerome,  51. 

Rutland,  Duke  of,  349. 

Earl  of,  318. 


Ruthven  Castle,  252. 

— •  Lord,  254. 
Ruthwell  Cross,  32. 


ST.  ABB'S,  327. 

St.  Andrews,  222  ;  267-271  ;  273  ; 
Archery  medals,  272  ;  Library  MSS., 
271  ;  Muchross,  267  ;  Priory,  269  ; 
Relics  of  St.  Andrew,  267  ;  Col- 
leges, 271,  278;  St.  Regulus,  267, 
268,  269. 

St  Andrew's  Episcopal  Church,  Glas- 
gow, 50. 

Anthony's  Chapel,  Arthur's 

Seat,  310. 

—  Austin,  86. 

—  Bernard,  57. 

—  Catherine's  Cross,  217. 

—  (the  Kaimes),  315. 
Spring,  2. 

—  Stone,  66,  67. 

—  Columba,  78,  82,  85,  87,  96. 

—  Duthus'  Church,  170. 

—  Fergus,  Wick,  160. 
Francis,  223. 

—  Giles,  1 88. 

—  Johnstoun's  Hunt's  up,  255. 

—  Kentigern's   cell,    49 ;    Church, 
44- 

—  Kilda,  94. 

—  Leonard's  Hill,  195. 

—  Machars,  205. 

—  Magnus,  137. 

—  Cathedal,  145. 
Martin,  14. 

—  Martin's  Cross,  85. 
Mary's  Island,  22,  23. 

—  Loch,  343. 

-  Michael's  Day,  86. 

—  Molocus  or  Moluag,  90. 

Monance  Church,  274,  275. 

Mungo,  49. 

Ninian,  14. 

— —  Ninian's  Church,  295. 

Oran,  86. 

Oran's  burial-ground,  83. 

Chapel,  85. 


Patrick,  60,  61. 


Regulus  Chapel,  1761 

Winning,  57. 

Sal-ammoniac,  308. 

Salmon,   23,  65,   103,   114,  119,  129, 

134,  144,   192,   194,  204,  211,  212, 

213,  228. 

Shee,  Dr.  Peter,  xlix. 
Shells,  25,  26,  114,  (H9,  156. 
Shell-beds,  in,  174',  193. 
Fossils,  174. 


INDEX. 


373 


Sheriffmuir,  241  ;  Battle  of,  292. 

Shetland,  153. 

Shetlanders,  German  manners  of,  153. 

Shin,  Loch,  115,  118,  121,  167. 

Sillacks,  145. 

Silver-mines,  10. 

Silver  out  of  lead,  42. 

Statue  of  an  Urus,  241. 

Simon,  Mr.,  of  Dublin,  xlvii,  xlix. 
Simson,  Professor,  3,  273,  276. 

Prof.  Thomas,  272. 

Sinclair  Castle,  160,  162. 
Dr.  Thurso,  177. 

—  General,  281. 
Lord,  281. 

Lord  Henry,  149. 

Mr.,  155. 

—  Mr.,  of  Lybster,  162. 

—  Provost,  1 60. 
Sheriff,  163. 

—  Sir  James,  155. 
Sinclairtown,  281. 
Skateraw  Chapel,  324. 
Skate's  eggs,  323. 
Skeletons,  Ardoch,  241. 
Skene,  Loch,  201. 

Mr.,  of  Skene,  217. 

Professor  Francis,  208. 

Skerry,  132. 

Skibo,  169. 

Skinner,  Colonel,  104. 

Skins  of  foxes  and  hares,  1 1 6. 

Skirmish  Hill,  342. 

Skye,  93,  101,  107,  115. 

Poets,  89. 

Slains  Castle,  198. 

Caves  near,  198. 

Slate,  36,  65,  71,  98. 
Slowie  or  Sloy  Loch,  64. 
Smeaton,  2. 
Smelt-mills,  lead,  41. 
Smith,  Lord  Chief  Baron,  302. 

—  Mr.,  of  Methven,  247,  249,  257. 
Smoo  Cave,  126. 
Snaid,  river,  63. 
Snowbird,  140. 

Sodor  and  Man,  Bishops  of,  8 1. 
Solemn  League  and  Covenant,  313. 
Somerset,  Duke  of,  317. 
Somerville,  Lord,  304,  310. 
Sonachan  Ferry,  68. 
Sorbus  Sylvestris,  72. 
Soulisgeir  Island,  125,  126. 
Southesk,  Earl  of,  214. 
South wark  Jail,  152. 
Spean,  river,  99. 
Spear-head,  brass,  228. 

in  urn,  no. 

Spey,  river,  192,  193,  195,  201. 


Spinage,  91. 
Spinning  School,  114. 
Sponges,  119,  120. 
Spotiswood,  Sir  Robert,  27. 
Spottiswoode,  Archbishop,  336. 

Mr.,  336. 

Spynie  Church,  187  ;  Loch,  187,  192  ; 

Palace,  187. 
Stair,  Earl  of,  4,  12,  13. 
Stalker  Island,  95. 
Standard  of  Pretender,  98. 
Standing  Stones,  149,   177,   193,  219, 

273,  276. 
Stanhope,  36. 
Stank,  31. 
Stennis    Church,    144 ;    Loch,     140 ; 

Stone-circles,  142,  144. 
Stewart,  Bishop  David,  187. 

of  Appin,  95,  96. 

of  Burray,  151. 

Robert,  150. 

Sir  James,  152. 

Sir  John,  225. 

Stiel,  George,  129. 
Stirling,  3,  64,  99,  294,  295. 
Castle,  289,  290,  294. 

—  Chapel,  24. 

Palace,  295. 

Archibald,  of  Garden,  42. 

Mr.,  of  Kier,  293. 

Sir  William,  240,  241. 

Stitchell,  330. 

Stockings,  139,  197,  211,  212;  prices, 

199,  204. 

Stone-circles,  102,  104,  142,  165,  193. 
Stone  from  Firth  of  Forth,  195,  202. 
Stonehaven,  211,  240. 
Stone  of  Odin,  144. 
Stonyfield,  104. 
Stormont,  225. 

Stoi month,  Lord,  31,  32,  258. 
Strageth,  Camp  of,  240,  244,  245,  246. 
Strahan,  Colonel,  114. 
Strathallan,  293. 

Lord,  245. 

Strathcarron,  river,  113. 
Strathearn,  225,  239,  243. 

Earl  of,  246. 

Strathkyle,  113. 
Strathmore,  120,  123,  130. 

Earl  of,  218,  219,  260. 

river,  121,  124. 

Strathnaver,  133. 
Strathpeffer,  109. 
Strath  Spey,  184. 
Strathy  Bay,  131,  132. 

Lady,  132. 

Loch,  131. 

Strawberries,  42. 


374 


INDEX. 


Stroma,  156. 

Stromness,  138,  140,  153. 

Struan,  233,  238. 

Struthers  in  Fife,  212. 

Stuart,  Lord  Provost  of  Perth,  252. 

Professor  John,  208. 

Students  from  Ireland,  52. 
Stukeley,  Dr.,  xl,  xli,  xlvii,  26. 
Sugar,  51. 

Sundial,  Tongue  House,  130. 
Susannah  Mine,  Leadhills,  41. 
Sutherland,  93,  115. 

David,  Cambusavie,  168. 

Earl  of,  12,  1 66,  168 ;  his  forest, 

118;  his  regiment,  192. 

Ensign  Kenneth,  169. 

Fencibles,  164. 

—  Gentlewoman,  117. 
— —  Kenneth,  jun.,  168. 
Lord,  304. 

— ' —  Regiment,  132. 

Rev.  John,  169. 

William,  of  Sciberscross,  1 68. 

of  Wester,  162. 

Suffolk,  1 8. 

Surrey,  Earl  of,  349,  350. 

Sutors  of  Cromarty,  175. 

Swans,  93,  117. 

Sweden,  17. 

Sweno's  Stone,  Forres,  184. 

Switha,  Isle  of,  134. 

Swona,  156. 

Sword,  two-handed,  88. 

Swordly,  131. 

Sybilla,  Queen,  236. 

Sycamore,  130;  large,  292. 

TABOR,  MOUNT,  97. 
Tain,  129, '169. 

—  Firth,  115. 

Tantallon  Castle,  319,  320. 
Tap  o'  Noth,  201. 
Tarbet,  62,  63,  69. 

House,  175. 

Tarbet  Ness,  172. 
Tarbet,  New,  64. 
Tarf,  river,  20. 
Tarradale,  no. 
Tay,  Firth  of,  222. 

—  Loch,  233,  235,  236  ;  Priory  on 
island   in,    236 ;    river,     233,    254, 
255  >   inscriptions  on   bridge   over, 
234,  235,  238. 

Taymouth,  64. 
—  Castle,  234,  235,  237,  238. 

Road,  229,  233. 

Tea  at  Hopetoun,  3. 
Tellve  Castle,  93. 
Terry,  river,  118. 


Teviot,  river,  329. 

Thatched  cabins,  34,  41,  42,  44,  89, 

159- 

church,  131,  144,  349. 

Thane  of  Sutherland,  166. 

ofCawdor,  181. 

Thomas,  Bishop,  170. 

Dr.,  5. 

Thorns,  Captain,  3. 
Thornton,  58. 

—  Castle,  325. 
Thrumster  House,  160. 
Thunderton  House,  190. 
Thurso,  124,  132,  133,  134. 
Tibbermoor,  249. 
Tibbers  Castle,  9. 
Tigh-na-Craig,  no. 
Tigh-na-Stalcaire,  95,  96. 
Tilt,  river,  229,  230,  233. 
Tin  ore,  131. 
Tinto,  43. 
Tirefoor,  91. 
Tiree,  78,  82,  87,  88. 

—  Bailie  of,  88. 
Toasted  ears,  133. 
Tobacco,  8,  30,  51. 
Tongue,  124,  129,  130. 

House  of,  131. 

Tongue  and,  20. 

Torbreck  Hill,  7. 

Torfaeus,  137. 

Torsk,  145,  153. 

Torryburn,  280,  288. 

Torrisdale  Head,  130,  131. 

Travers,  Mrs.,  5. 

Trapaud,  Governor,  100,  102,  181. 

Treig,  Loch,  125. 

Troddan  Castle,  93. 

Trout,  63,  131,  144. 

Tub,  Marquis  of  Annandale's,  40. 

Tulliallan  Church,  288. 

Tullibardine  Church,  242,  243. 

Earl  of,  242,  258. 

Tummel,  Loch,  233  ;  river,  229. 
Turriff,  195,  196. 

Tweed,  river,  20,  40,  328,  329,  341. 
Tweeddale,  Marquis  of,  3,  283,   301, 

311,  316,  317. 
Twizell,  348. 
Tyndrum,  64. 

Tyne,  River,  315,  316,  320. 
Tynninghame,  320. 
Tyrie,  Rev.  James,  142. 

UAGBEG,  165. 
Uagmore,  165. 
Ubbanford,  347. 
Udny  Castle,  199. 
Ugie,  river,  196. 


INDEX. 


375 


Uisneach,  sons  of,  70. 
Uist,  91,  92,  93. 
Urie,  Robert,  .4. 
Urn,  68,  no,  149,  241. 
Urquhart,  192,  193,  199. 

Castle,  101,  102. 

Mr.,  176. 

Lord,  284. 

Urr,  River,  25,  26. 
Urus,  72,  91,  138,  241. 
Ury,  River,  200. 
Usan,  214. 
Usher,  Archbishop,  79. 

VANDYCK'S  PAINTING,  316. 
Vase,  Roman,  Fortingall,  237. 
Venison,  120. 
Vitrified  forts,  201,  217. 

WADE,  GENERAL,  100,  101,  103,  234, 

235- 
Walker,  Rev.  Patrick,  32. 

Mrs.,  Dunfermline,  286. 

Wallace,  Sir  William,  9,  211,  264. 

Wallbrook,  John,  270. 

Walls,  Isle  of,  134,  140,  152,  153. 

Wamphray,  10. 

Wardlaw,  Bishop,  271. 

Wardlaws  of  Torry,  280,  288. 

Wark,  328,  350. 

Waterford,  Bishop  of,  xxxiii,  5. 

Caves,  127. 

Water  of  Ayr  hones,  59. 
Watten,  Loch,  158. 
Wemyss  Hall,  265. 

Lord,  249. 

Wenlock  Abbey,  53. 

Wester,  162. 

Western  Isles,  81,  92,  94. 


Westray,  149. 
Whales,  90,  120,  155,  274. 
Wharton  Hall,  36. 
Wheat  bread,  133. 
Whey,  1 1 6,  118. 
Whisk  of  horsehair,  116. 
Whisky,  antidote  for,  89. 
Whiteford,  Bishop,  39. 

Rachel,  39. 

White-lead,  42. 
Whithorn,  14. 
Wick,  158,  159,  1 60. 
Wigtown,  14,  17,  18. 
Wilde,  W.  R.,  xlix. 
Wilford,  Sir  George,  318. 
Williamson,  John  Moffat,  39. 
Wilson,  Wm.,  47. 
Windmill,  large,  224. 
Wine,  1 1 8,  130. 
Wintan,  Andrew,  279. 
Winter  of  1738,  117. 
Winton,  36. 
Wirren  Hill,  217. 
Wishart,  Bishop,  268,  270,  304. 
Woden's  Stone,  144. 
Wolf  of  Badenoch,  188. 
Wood,  Mr.,  257. 
Workington,  25,  36. 
Wymundus,  81. 

YARN,  194,  212. 

Yarrow,  river,  343. 

Yern,  27. 

Yester  Church,  317  ;  House,  316. 

Yetholm,  345. 

York,  Archbishop  of,  81. 

Buildings  Company,  184,  264. 

Mr.,  i. 

Ythan,  river,  199. 


THE  END. 


Printed  by  T.  and  A.  CONSTABLE,  Printers  to  Her  Majesty, 
at  the  Edinburgh  University  Press. 


PLEASE  DO  NOT  REMOVE 
CARDS  OR  SLIPS  FROM  THIS  POCKET 

UNIVERSITY  OF  TORONTO  LIBRARY