The "Queen" Cookery Books ...

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Il''QriE5''COrȣaT BOOKS.

LiST OP PREVIOUS PARTS.

No. 1. Soups.

,, 2. ICBS.

„ 3. Pickles and Preserves.

„ 4. Entries.

„ 5. Meat and Game.

„ 6. Sweets (Part 1).

„ 7. „ (Part 2).

„ 8. Breakfast and Lunch Dishes.

,, 9. Salads, Sandwiches, and Sayouriei

„ 10. Vegetables.

„ 11. Cakes and Biscuits.

„ 12. Fish (Part 1).

„ 13. „ (Part 2) (Cold Fish).

These will he followed hy :
Household Hints.

THE "QUEEI" COOKERY BOOKS.

No. 13.

FISH.

PART II.

(COLD FISH.)

COLLECTSD AND DB80R1BK1) BT

S. BEATY-POWMALL,

DepMctmental Editor ** Housewife and Cuieiue," Qiio««i Nt»wii|Hi)t(4r,
and Antbor of ** A Book of C^ucm,"

LONDON :

HORACE COX,

**QUEBN" OFFICE, WINDSOR HOIJHK,

BBEAM'S BUILDINGS, K.C.

THE NEW YORK
PV'lir. LIBRARY

367453B

A.vr.;. LK.NfX AND
TlLDEIs F0LMMT10N8

LONDON :
PaiNTRD BT HOBAOK OCX, WINDSOR BOUBI, BRIAN'S BUILDWUS, B.C.

- LoTiLK. X juav, oiTifiiiftiity n •iiidnurti for ttur

^ folBawiiur naiap^^ai ihomt at vThdth Iulvtv kfifk^ifid'nfl in.

tT'tkfr Oi«>kiM?y <t(iiiimiiM .ilr fhf f),nvt^ Uirmi^ th»

Baa tfltrrir. «ir aine w^i-n. imm T^ieiur ilu»r ii&vi^

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^ ahraiy^ witdiiii cr*iusli. AilidtidiiiU. iTfrip*^ liuvit, liiiw-

<5^^ei«r^ h«*«L s^rwm, tii l)niuf duM lirrii* vnrk .m miiuiL

^a|>' Ho «Ia&^ Mt poHmhlit; Inir lil riuistft, likci dut

/)^|weviumi^ (»iiii^, hukWt h««iL iiaiT^iiniLy ni'-rtiwl^ jjiil ;uw

aJl ida( J[ lnii»w 6?riiii pirujniital •♦xpHnnmitt) w/iil widiin.

^llie- «ai^a4'ity of .my orriinury * .£r»#i»£ pliun «!tmk,"

^ gifteii wTfiL fair intsdlii^rauiit .uii[ x litnii* .£t»«h1^iI1.

vol ditasBft i^ko frf) tsiim diiif oppoi^tninxty >\t .a:laii>w-

ledgsB^ OLj iiuii^>f<*^Lii»is*H no nlii^ TTiriDim :i>iitJiorf ^it

has so ■fiidi€FiEb£Iy ht^^ii joui n^mii^n^ poi^tstbl^ !»¥
wcNrk in ^tueat hoA j«abs.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. PAaB

Large Pieh, Whole 1

CHAPTEB II.

Large Pieh, Whole (Recipes) 11

CHAPTER m.
Mayonnaiee, Vinaigrettes, &c 37

CHAPTER IV.
Moulds, Creams, &c. ... ... ... 51

CHAPTER V.
Small Entrees, Ac 68

CHAPTER VI.

Sances, Garnishes, Ac. 88

Adveriisemsnis,

^^-

By Appointment to the

KINQ and the Prince of

Wales.

nan's

D. & F.

MUSTARD.

See that Colman's oame is on the Til.

CORN FLOUR.

For Blanc Manges, Custards, ftc.

I Self-Rising
Flour.

;>"31^ Per Bread, Pastry, Cakes, Pnddinss,
Scones, ftc.

108, CANNON STRBBT, LONDON,
and C\RROW WORKS* NORWICH.

COLD FISH.

CHAPTEE I.
LAEGE FISH, WHOLE.

Abioad the appearaaoe of a whole large fish in jelly,
or en duuifroix, is far more commoii thaa it is with us,
though a whole salmon is occasionally to he seen
at large hall suppers and such like. Many fish are
susoeptiUe of this treatment, with great advantageg
for it offers a welcome change, and, moreover, allows
of the use of many which we have almost forgotten^
Besides this, it must he rememhered that it is not ahso-
lutely necessary to have a whole fish. A good cut from
the centre of a large one (technically known as a trongon^
of whatever fish is chosen), the head and shoulders (in
French the hureX or even the tail end, may be served
cold with any of the garnishes adopted for the whole
fish. Salmon is, of course, facile pririceps as a cold side-
board dish. Firstly, it may be served plainly boiled in
the usual way, with a garnish of parsley, watercress,
&c., the sauce being handed in a boat. Corvcfctwv\\.st,^\jA
B

2 COLD FISH.

sauce it is well to observe that it is always better, when
possible, not to add this condiment till the last minute,
as the steeping of the fish in so rich*a substance is apt
to make it both soppy and indigestible. As will be seen
later in the chapter on mayonnaises and such like, the
accusation of unwholsomeness frequently brought
against salmon, shellfish, &c., is far more often the result
of steeping an already rich fish in an even richer sauce (a
sauce, moreover, which has a tendency to grow rank
and strong if exposed to the air), than to the nature of
the fish itself if thoroughly fresh and properly prepared.
But though a good fresh fish may be perfectly well
served cold after plain boiling, most connoisseurs and
good chefs advise the use of a courtiouillorij or broth
composed of herbs, fish-stock, wine, milk, &c., instead
of water. This court-bouillon may be kept ready, and
can be used over and over again, only boiling up in it
a little more stock, &c., as the liquid evaporates. The
method of preparing this is as follows : Slice thinly 2oz.
each of onion, carrots, and a good bouquet (including a
small blade of mace and Joz. each of celery and parsley),
and fry these in ^z. of butter in a fairly large pan,
seasoning them as they cook with half a teaspoonful of
ialt, and half that amount of freshly-ground black pepper,
a few peppercorns, and a small teaspoonful of grated
horseradish ; when the vegetables are soft, but not
coloured, add a pound of fish trimmings and a quart
of warm water, to which you have mixed a gill of best
French vinegar, or wine, red or white, according to
circumstances. If made with white wine this is known as
courUbouillon, if with red wine it becomes court-bouillon
au bleu, whilst if vinegar is used it is called court-bouillon
simple. Bring all these ingredients to the boil, skim
thoroughly, then simmer steadily and gently for an

LARGE PISH, WHOLB. 3

hour, after which strain. It may now be kept for oae, or
be re-boiled, whea the fish is plnnged into it, the liquid
again allowed just to boil np after the diill caused by
the addition of the cold fish, the kettle being then
covered down, and its contents kept at gentle ^mmering
point till the fish is cooked. When ready, lift the fish
into a deep earthenware dish, and allow it to cool in
the court-booillon— the latter, by the way, if helped
out with a httle more fish-stock, stiffened with gelatine
(using Joz. to |oz. of gelatine to the half pint of stock,
according to the use you wish to put the jelly to), making
most excellent aspic jelly for decorative or other use.
The above quantities would be sufficient for a trout, or
a grey mullet, but they would have to be increased
(keeping the proportions correctly) for larger fish ;
still as, if tightly corked down, this court-bouillon keeps
well, this is no disadvantage. Another way of serving
who^ fish is en marinade. For this cleanse and trim
the fish, split it open, and rub the inside over with fine
salt ; leave it thus, cut-side uppermost, for an hour or
so, after which wipe it and lay it in the pan prepared for
it. For the pan, where possible, it is beat to havf^ t^
fireproof dish, either of French china, or glazed eartht^ii-
ware, oval or oblong, but in any case long enough to Int
the fish lie out straight in it at full length. Liiifj tha
bottom of this with sliced onion, turnip, and (sarrnlw
(using one part turnip, or less, to two of carrot, and thrums
of onion), scattering the surface with raincftd jianilisy,
scraped horseradish, sweet herbs, and a generoiiM ttll/m
ance of freshly-ground black pepper. Uy tliA Mt
on this, then poiu- ui equal quantities (A MntUHtk Mffi
good vinegar, or light French wine, U} futstf tU M^t
and bring it slowly to the boil, drawing it mAtt differ
it reaches this point, only allowing Vt U) ^\|UUW \vv V^

B 2

4 COLD FISH.

gentlest way till cooked, when it muit be lifted off at
onoe, and left to get cold in the marinade. To aerve
fi»h thus treated, lift it out of the marinade, and plaee
it on a dish, garnishing it with any nicely s e aso n ed
salading to taste, moistening it with a little (very littk)
of the marinade, and sending the rest to table in a
sauce boat. This recipe may be varied to suit individual
taste, tlie vinegar and wine being especially a*.matter
for personal opinion. Moreover, the lining of the
marinade pan may also be varied, either by simplifying,
or increasing, the flavours. Already cooked cold fiah
may be improved by allowing it to steep in a mixture of
oil, vinegar, parsley, mixed herlw, peppercorns, hayleaf,
a strip of lemon peel, cloves and salt. The ffroporiions
for this would be half a gill of oil to one tablespoonf ul of
vinegar, a sliallot or small onion, a bayleaf, five or^six
cloves, a saltspoonf ul of salt, a npcHmtui of minoedjpanley
(the stalks of parsley roughly chopped answerfvery
well for this), lialf tliat amoimt of mixed herbs, eight or
ten peppercorns, and one or two strips of lemon peel
well freed from tlie whit« pith. This marinade need noi
cover the fish as long as the latter is turned now and
again, and basted with the liciuid, &c. This, it will be
seen, is the same marinade as is recommended for hot
fish, such as whiting d la Ginoise, iie. It may also be
observed tliat tliis marinade is much liked by many
people, when the fish is afterwards to be served as
vinaigrette or en mayonnaise^ if it is strained and^used
in the manufacture of the sauce.

A more recondite, but ccirtainly excellent marinade
is tliat recommended by (>)lonel Kenny-Herbert
(Wyvcm), which is, I btelievo, of t!aHtern origin. "For
a fish of lib. to ijlb. weight, MJio; thuily 3oz. of onion,
Jaz. Juicy, frcah, green mvif'V, one capsicum, or six

LARGE FISH, WHOLE. 5

green chillies freed from pith and seeds, and shredded^
with 2oz. of tomatoes ; arrange this in the pan as before
and strew the surface with a teaspoonf ul each of minced
green mint, and coriander seeds (not powder), ten or
twelve peppercorns, and four cloves, and proceed as
advised for ordinary marinade." Decorate fish thus
prepared with shredded chillies, green and red, nastur-
tium seeds, sliced green ginger, tomato and cucumber,
and, lastly, seasoned watercress. In serving fish whole,
en chaufroix, it is impossible to insist too strongly on
simplicity ; a fish can be made to look quite as nice
lying plainly on its side, as it can if curled into a letter
S by the help of hdtelets or skewers garnished with all
sorts of incongruous " fixings," or en dauphin^ which,
to sensitive persons, is unpleasantly suggestive of death
struggles. Neither are much ornamented socles of
rice, fat, &c., to be recommended, as they take more
time and greater skill than the average cook has at
command, if they are to be a success. At the same time
it must be admitted that its appearance is greatly
enhanced if, when dishing it, the fish is laid on a crouton of
fried bread spread with green, Oascony, or other savoury
butter, or on a slab of plain jelly, as this allows the fish
to stand out well from its decoration. But do let me im-
press on the amateur cook, or the novice, the inadvisa-
bility (to use the mildest tern) of mixing up with the
decoration non-edible adornments, permissible at a
state banquet or a large buffet display (perhaps), but
utt^ly out of keeping with the service of a private
house. Over-decoration is always to be deprecated, and
there is no denying that it is a temptation apt to beset
the preparer of cold viands. Did they but know it, such
work iB more likely to win disgust and blame than
approbation from the majority, \\\vo ^t^ \5a\ffli^^5 ^^x^

6 COLD nSH.

sensitive of suggestion, and to whom the idea of much
handling of their food is especially impleasant. Tours
de force in this matter may be wonderful, perhaps, but
in most cases one prefers to leave them to the pages of
professional gastronomic works intended for the benefit
of chefs in royal houses, or large hotels. (I shall never
forget one truly awful specimen of this misdirected
energy I once encountered, in the shape of a rocky-
looking sea green jelly incrusted with waving stems of
tarragon, tiny shells, &C., and inclosing in its heart
a whole school of wee living goldfish ! Not even the
proud possessor's naive remark that the fishlets were
really in a glass dish slipped into the centre of the jelly,
consoled me for the horror, especially as I had just been
reading a book on China, which gave a highly coloured
description of Celestial taste in the matter of live fish.)

If, however, an upright position is particularly
desired for the cold fish, this may be attained when
cooking it, by deftly insinuating a 'whole carrot, one
side trimmed to allow it to stand fiat, into the inside
of the fish, as this will give the required firmness to
keep it in place, especially if the dish be garnished
with croiitons of aspic, and cleverly arranged little
heaps of cold cooked vegetables, tiny darioles of shrimps
en aspic, <&;c. To arrange, when the fish has been
opened for cleansing purposes, lay in the lightly-buttered
carrot, fasten up the fish again, and cook it in the
ordinary way, or en marinade, as above, keeping it
upright by means of the vegetables lining the pan.
In this case, however, omit the carrot from the court-
bouillon. Still, personally, I prefer a fish resting
naturally on its side, surrounded with seasoned water-
cress, or other salading, or chopped aspic to taste.

Trout of various sizes, grey and (though few people

LARGE FISH, WHOLE. 7

seem to reidia& it) red mullet, mackerel, tnrboC, briU,
and even the humble haddock, are aD neari/ as ^ood
cold as they are hot, if a little trouble be bestowed on
the gamishings. Special recipes for the preparatioii
of such dishes will be given in the next chapter, so
the subject need not be enlarged on for the moment*

Where a large piece of fish is wished for, thou^
a whole one might prove bejond the capaeit j of the
cook, a large cut maj be taken from the middle of a
good fish, and boiled either in plain acidulated water,
or in court-bouillon, as jou please ; it is then served
plain as it is, simply garnished with hard-bolied e^^s
halved, with their centres filled with shrimp, lobster,
anchovy, Qascony, or other butter to taste, and seasoned
watercress ; or with tomatoes nicely seasoned with
oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, and filled up with green
peas, pointes d'asperges, ^., tossed m mayonnaise
or vinaigrette dressing. Where salmon or trout is
concerned, the fdlowing will prove a very effective
garnish : Stone some nice oHves and fill up the centre
with either mayonnaise or anchovy butter, or a filletted
anchovy, then fill son^ little bouch^ moulds with
aspic jelly, and just as this is setting fix a stuffed olive
in each, and leave it till firm. Have ready biscuit
crisp, square croutons, fix on each with a^ Httle just
liquid aspic, a round of hard-boiled egg-white, and
place one of the little olive moulds in each. These
may be arranged round the fish alternately with little
heaps of chopped aspic, or bunches of season salading
to taste. Where white fish of not too strong an indi
vidual flavour is in question, the garnish may with
advantage be rather more strongly characteristic.
For instance, line dariole moulds with aspic jelly, filling
these up with cold shrimp, crab, lobster, or oyster

8 COLD nSH,

sauce, stiffened with two or three sheets of best leaf
gelatine. Or (with cold cod especially), these dariofes
may be filled with Flemish salad (i.e., a mixture of
bloater or kipper fillets, minced apple, sliced beetroot,
dice of potatoes, small Brussels sprouts, picked eauli*
flower, &c., tossed in mayonnaise, and set in the aspic*
lined moulds) ; or, again, these aspio4ined daiioles
may be filled with a mixture of finely-shredded and
crisped celery, blanched and bearded oysters, caTiar,
white mayonnaise, hard-boiled egg (yolk and white),
and coralline pepper, this being particularly nice with
cold turbot or brill. Or, again, fill the jelly-Uned moulds
with a mixture of tomato mayonnaise, mixed with
grated Qruyere or Cheddar cheese, a few capers, and
boned, skinned, and filletted sardines, finishing the
mixture with a dash of anchovy vinegar ; this is excel-
lent with cod or haddock. In short these little gar-
nishes may be varied indefinitely, according to what
you have in the house, and as they can be prepared
some time beforehand without fear of deterioration
(the mayonnaise being enclosed in the airtight aspic
casing), they may be specially recomn^ended for those
Sunday suppers which are such a crux to the average
housekeeper.

The hints just given may serve to help the eook
desirous of making the best of cold fish served eo to
say au naturel ; but the more ambitioTis cordon bleu
may, an she will, remove the skin of the fish carefully
and cleanly, and then proceed to mask or coat the
surface thus exposed, to her mind. One hint I would
fain give. If the dish has to stand long, do not use
any kind of mayonnaise as the masking medium, for
if exposed long to the air this sauce inevitably deterio-
rates, the oil becoming rank and strong, even if of the

LARGE FISH, WHOLE. ^

very best qualitj. If mayonnaise flavour you must
have, lue any of the mayonnaise aspic— led, wfaite, or
green, and when this is birly set, case it aB in just
liquid plain aspic, as this keeps off the air and preserves
the sauoe.

But undoubtedly the best material for this masking
is a savoury butter of some kind, such as maiire dChMd^
Qasoony, kc. as it will make a smooth, even snrfoce,
if carefully spread with a broad-bladed knife. This
can, of course, be further decorated with olives, hard-
boiled egg^ aspic, or fried bread cro&tons, te., to taste.
Tomato or other aspic may also be used for this purpose,
or mayonnaise aspic, if carefully coated with a layer
of aspic or savoury jelly at the last. Or, if liked, a
nice white chaufroix sauce made with fish stock, &c.,
may be recommended, as it enhances the flavour and
appearance at the same time, without entailing a great
amount of trouble.

Cold fried fish, again, is particularly good if attention
be given to the frying, and cold dames de sauman a la
Juive, or a good Sole Colbert will be appreciated by
most people, though for some reason neither is often
seen, and the respect for cold fried fish appears to be
felt almost entirely in Jewish households in this country.

Fish pies of various kinds may also be commended
as jnices de rSngtanee^ as palatable as they are un-
common. They are made in precisely the same way
as meat pies, a farce of inferior fish being used to line
and fill the crannies of the pie-dish, in which are imbedded
the fillets of more delicate fish, and such addenda as
oysters, prawns, bbster, or crab meat, hard-boiled
^SSt ^-9 ^th ail appropriate seasoning; whikt such
a dish as the salmon pie given in the next chapter is
a welcome addition to the sideboard or buffet at any

10 COLD nsH.

time. Moreover, these pies possess the fiirther advan-
tage of being excellent when made of either fresh or
cold cooked fish.

Lastly, there are galantines and collared fUh, Between
these two dishes there is very little to choose, though
perhaps the difference may be that in a galantine the
fish or meat is used as a fomidation, and is more or
less overlaid with other substances, whereas in the
collared specimen, the fish is only spread with necessary
seasoning, the flavour of the foundation being kept
simple and distinct. Examples of both processes wiU
be given later on.

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far ^OBf -anpagsfsir.. MtK- tjwewir^ .^ :zii :£& laa:
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tinedj and Miftimiii "j ^tmm^essL* cc t^ *^v,\i^H)^
aaToim s««et * mYmnaMr cccLmecte^ viii^ |)# (V^
fish shop of fifth-cue screess rv. and a$ ;J^x^^ i^ ih^ if«
really hoi and has eeased to hi$s;« Uy in ll>^ 4hVA |»^^ ^vv
three at a time (at the utmostX ^ooi^liu^ \s\ Ai#^i ^\\s\
fry them a nice golden brown on c^dt niilt^ (lIUM IhUn
from fifteen to twenty minntea for etvuh w) j Ul(M)
drain them well on kitchen paptu, tiiui MlUHl I H
till perfectly cold, when thoy inny \m

12 COLD FISH.

or with any garnish, such as seasoned watercress,
lettuce, caviar, &c., to taste. Another Jewish way
of cooking fish, salmon especially, is this : Fry a sliced
onion in a little oil till nicely browned, then drain it,
and lay it in a pan with a nice cut of salmon, fully
Ij inches thick, one or two parsley roots, pepper, salt,
and a little finely-minced green ginger (failing this,
use freshly-ground ginger, but this is not as fragrant
as the green kind), with sufficient cold water to cover
the fish ; bring this all to the k)il, and then only let
it simmer till the fish is cooked. Meanwhile, prepare
some forcemeat balls thus : Eemove the skin and bones
from a nicely-boiled plaice, and flake the fish finely,
mixing it with pepper, salt, minced parsley, a table-
spoonful of fine breadcrumbs, and sufficient egg to
bind it all ; roll this all into little balls and put these
into the pan with the fish when the latter is about
half cooked. When the fish is quite ready lift it out,
pour off about one-third of the liquid in the pan (accord-
ing to the amount of sauce you wish for), and pour
to what is left in the pan the juice of four lemons beaten
up with the yolks of four eggs, tossing it gently together
till the sauce thickens nicely (but without actually
boiling, which would curdle it), then pour it over the
fish and the little balls, and leave till quite cold. It is
well to remember that cold, plainly-boiled salmon,
turbot, or indeed many other fish, such as cod, haddock,
halibut, &c. (to say nothing of fried smelts, broiled
trout, &c.), is excellent if plainly dished with a garnish
of green parsley, tarragon, or fennel, and some rich
well-made sauce, sent up separately in a sauce-boat.
Cold tomato, curry, r^moukide, Chauron, &c., aU
answer for this, as does also cold Dutch sattce, a some*
what different preparation from the hot one of the

LABGE FISH, WHOLE. 13

flame name. For this prepare half a pint of mote or
less rieh custard in the usual way with egg jdks and
milk, aeascming it with salt and coralline pepper (and,
if liked, a drc^ or two of essence of anehoTjX ^^nd ka^
this till. cold. Meantime hoil together sharply a short
haM pint of either hest white vinegar, light French
while wine, (ht half of each, a teaspoonful of minced
shallot, two or three peppercorns, a pinch of salt, and
a hay-leaf till reduced to less than half, when you strain
it and leave till cold. This mixture is then whidKcd
in very gradually into the cold custard, till it is all
light aiid frothy, when it is served vnth the cold fish.
A couple of tahlespoonfuls of richly-coloured toniato
pur6e added to this makes a pleasant and unusual
change. Of course these sauces require caution, for
though pakktahle, they are all usually very rich, and
it must be borne in mind that a good deal of the dyspeptic
trouble generally associated with salmon, lobster, 4zc..
arises Seut mcHre from the rich addenda sent to table
vnth them than from the fish.

Another way, very popular with some people, of
serving plainly boiled cold fish is "soused." For this
take a good cut of salmon, a whole trout, or a mackerel,
as you please, and lay it in a fairly deep dish ; put into
a small pan half a pint of good vinegar, a couple of
daveSy a small shallot, a little fish stock, and some
fresU^-ground pepper ; let this just boil up well, then
strain it over the fish> and leave till cold. A prettier
form of this dish is to substitute a strong fish aspic
for the fish stock, or add to the latter from ^z. to ioz.
of best leaf gelatine ; let this all boil together well till
blended, lay the fish in a deep dish that will hold it
nicely, and strain this liquid on to it, being careful
to^have enough to cover the fiah ewtvi^V^^ ^xA V^a^^

14 COLD FISH.

till set, when it is turned out and served garnished
with seasoned watercress,f parsley^ tarragon, &c., as
you please. [This] is fa very favourite dish abroad,
where [it is known ' as truite^ midet, maquereau^ &c.,
a la gelie. The fish^ should be [put in neatly, about
an inch of the jelly being put in first ; from this,
when set, a J inch groove is cut, to receive the back
of the fish, which is lightly held in position with a
skewer or something of.the^kind, whilst filling up the
basin or mould with the rest of the aspic. When possible
it is well to stand the dish or mould on ice, to cause
the jelly to set more ^'quickly. The jellyjmust, of course,
be on^the point'of setting, and only just liquid enough
to pour.

The ordinary way of picJding fish used in this coimtry
is the following : As soon as the fish comes from the
table trim it and remove the bones, covering it up
carefully to exclude the air. Now boil {together equal
parts of good vinegar and water (or preferably the
liquid in which the fish was originally cooked), with
a teaspoonful of salt, ^oz. whole allspice, and a couple
of bay leaves, for ten minutes ; then let it stand till
cold, when you pour it over the fish to be pickled,
and leave it till next day. The quantity of liquid
depends on the amoimt of fish ; the above is for the
remains of a good cut of salmon or halibut. Almost
any fish may be treated thus, though it is not so delicate
as the methods previously given.

Boiled fish en chaufroix. (To stand upright.) —
Cleanse and trim the fish, season it lightly inside, then
lay in a nice carrot, scraped and thinly coated with
a very little butter. This should have one side pared
to make it stand even. Fasten up the fish, and place
It on the strainer, tieing it to tbia to keep it straight.

LARGE nSH. WEfJLM^ Lv

and propping it with a lew scrap -ppiggtanifeg dmnaan^
the canotX and a buncb oi harftft. ^px& saoBiiinj^ -»
taste. Ponr in snffident acaliiibosii -v^oo; <S3irv
bouiUon, or fiah stock as jva. c&rKwe^ i& jnac 'sonvsr x
nicely, let it lehoil, then dmr k ^ ice mtkt 'Jt "M ^fi^vr^
and only let it simmer tS the 5bL s v^jkzfL h. ttH
take about ten minutes to tht ^^xA, Waen vrJEsd
lift the fish out, and let it iiand ^ pnfe^dij vM bi^fboe
attempting to lift it from the xsaaour, h ma^j zf^m
be served as it is, if the ikin if zfA ^a^xokOkiL \ i^knhk
of any nice ccAi sanee to taRfc, njo^j^jazjisa^ vM. miy3»-
seline, tomato cream, or a&y eLA<:fraz JAcaft saxcabfe
to the kind of firii, with wamxjsA m^a^CL^ ^^^^
aspic, fo., neatly anan^ rono^ h, U tbt ikin bas
been broken, or the foh itaelf h a mfle ^o^^rcooked and
so damaged, remoTe the skin rtrj z^ui^rij, zad wpnaA
the surface with any thidc idffeiaed aciee appropriate,
making it smooth with a hoc, brood-bhded or palette
knife. This sur&ice may then be decopra^ with fiDeta
of anchovy, shapes of hard4)oi]ed egg-white or the
sieved yolk, sliced cocomber, lines and dt^ts of any fancy
butter applied with a bag and pqie, 4c^ as you pfeaae,
according to the timeandskill available. Any fish, such
as bass, hill, dorey, haddodc, halibut, madoerel, mullet,
salmon, &C., may be treated thus. It is wonderful
what i^eaaant variety may be obtained by applying
the method most cooks consider solely intended for
the very highest class of fish, to the commoner kinds.

Fi«fe, Stuffed.— ¥ht fish, such as chicken turbot,.
brill, large plaice, &c., are very good if the flesh is lifted
off the bone on both sides, keeping each side whole, then
lay the under fillet on a well buttered baking tin, spread
it with a layer of any nice fish farce or stuffing, according
to the fish, cover this with tVie o\»\i%t \ffl!& kjL >^^ ^s^^

16 COLD nSH.

«o that it looks like a whole fish, sprinkle it with lemon
juioe, brnah it over with beaten eggj strew it with
masoned breadcrumbs and mineed parsley (as for hot
fish au gratinX cover with a buttered paper, and bake.
Serve when perfectly cold, either plain or with any form
of mayonnaise or r^moulade you fancy.

Fidi Galantine,— Beskvd twelve good sauce oysters,
■saving the liquor ; simmer the beards of the oysters in
about a gill of water till all their flavour is extracted,
then strain this into a stewpan with the oyster liquor ;
4^ir into it as many freshly-made white breadcrumbs
as it will take up, and stir it over the fire till it forms a
smooth pastes then turn it out and leave till cool.
Meanwhile pound well the flesh of a medium-sized fresh
haddock or a couple of whitings, and when smooth work
it into the panade, with 2oz. of butter, seasoning it with
.salt and white pepper, and a dash of lemon, and binding
it with two whole eggs, sieving it when well amalgamated.
Now ^lit a Wge haddock, or any good fish of the kind,
remove the bone without breaking the skin, and cover
it with a layer of the farce, and on this lay the oysters,
some small anchovy fillets, some minced olives or capers,
&c. (in short, any nice addenda that may be at hand),
and some sliced hard*boiled egf^; spread J^nother layer
of the forcemeat over this, draw the fish together neatly
into shape, fastening it by sewing, or by the method given
in Chapter I. of ''Hot Fish.** Scald a napkin in boiling
water, rinse and wring it out of cold water, spread it
with butter, lay the galantine in this, tying it up securely,
and place it in a pan large enough to hold it without
•crushing ; lay in with it a good bouquet, an onion stuck
with one or two cloves, a blade of mace, six or eight
peppercorns, and just enough fish stock to cover it all
nicely Bring this all to the boil on the stove, then'cook

LASUGX FEE&. VSCtLi IT

it very sknrh- m. lAm ^oKOi for rwi iiuiiT% 1^ r taut
till, nearly eoUL in iss Bginr u^. in: tit: im, issKtnky
into a deep eanhe mwut i t daL|fDir -u^^ Iujuk.iei.. TDunc.
and leave it t9 ooUL J^odim^ BiifmiL ^I's-' i*e almiiaec
to stand till cold i& -dKr iseikL wi. r wii§ cwi&fL fl-
it does not lim mmiiTIj pnmu. tier htuc xiiix ieh Tiiuugi
even that is ^nmMf bm i: OBrauurr mint tife aeiisbr
of the flaToar); tiRCi rCTMwt tiit ciwx. drr r taTerulr:^
with a dean nMfikTT* xnd -riieL ^ri^;?:rr cujc usisk. i:
with aqiie, and. if jvn fijg'. irii»;L liijr i^ iim.. pi|^ uir
fish with green or lohBBRr bunvr . J-^fTVJisitJbr. imt pjpru:
seems to me a mifFttifcf aiiii I imujc ikivrayb iar ratii^;
have a fish gibriTrri*- »Rrp»jc jl jybr v-rx #:»iii»: ciii»p}iec
aspic and seaatn&d -irMere»«fc r:»uiic iu ual iiie«r
trouhlesome and i»lourwi awrjcatiwiE. viii'jii. «jeiL on:
of ^aoe in a pnr^Xft !»■»:. Js.h. — A hkik ^-i^elieiii
^«& Xtfjf for gMTiJEhmg haj tie iifi»d*: -wiii :iit liuTTjr
in whieh this gilamiue vih^ erx'k^ c>r. iiid^^bd. iritb
either eoort-bonillon or ordiiArT nteL *rxx*i- W ti*a.T/ir.jc
it exactty like meat stock. i::id csiirifTi!!^ h -witi riw
fish, Ae^ instead of t^w juf^i . or CLt*»fr,»:v*: ^l o'Hioe of
best leaf gelatine to a puit of coun-U^uioOL- ciahfr h
with the white and shell of ^n *-*^- 4k-- add a liT^k u-h::^
French or Bhine wine. ai:.d u*. TLi* j^rDj, wLUe
possessing a distinct flavour of it* own, avoids xhft
acidity which is so disagreeal^ to many people in
aspic.

Cod Steaks in Aspic {Dames de cahillavd en aspic). —
The cod steaks used for this may be either cooked on pur-
pose (in the oven, on a buttered baking-dish with a season-
ing of white pepper, salt, lemon juice, &c., under a
buttered paper), or may be cut in neat, even cutlets from
a cold boiled fish, as you please. Pour a little good fish
aspic, just on the point of aettuig, into «» dsfe^ ^vA

c

18 COLD nSH.

delicately clean baking-dish, then lay in the steaks, which
should be perfectly cold, leaving a good space between
each piece ; lay a roiind of hard-boiled egg, or a star
made with diamonds of egg white, and a romid of
pickled walnut on each, then pour in gently sufficient
aspic to cover the steaks nicely, and leave it till set and
quite firm, when each steak should be cut out with a
sharp knife or a cutlet cutter, leaving a margin of jelly
all round, and serve with either horseradish cream, or
tomato mayonnaise.

Pie, — Lay a nice piece of fresh cod in salt for

three or four hours, then wash it and season it with f reshly-
groimd black pepper, salt, minced parsley, a dust of nut-
meg, and a very little mace ; lay it in a buttered pie-dish
with some morsels of butter, and a little fish stock, or equal
parts of fish stock and light French wine, with a few
drops of essence of anchovy. Cover with good rough puff
paste, and bake it. When cooked lift the crust, and pour
in the following sauce : Melt together loz. of butter and
a tablespoonful of flour, dilute it with three or four
tablespoonfuls of good fish stock and a gill of cream,
season with a grate of nutmeg, and lemon-peel, a dust
of mace, and a drop or two of lemon-juice and essence
of anchovy ; let it just boil up, then add some bearded
oysters (their liquor should have been added to the fish
stock and cream), and use. Very good hot, but still
better cold. A very nice pie can also be made from salt
cod, if the latter is well soaked, first in running water
and then in milk and water for twelve to twenty-four
hours, according to the saltness of the fish. Pack a
pie-dish with flaked, cold salt cod, adding little pats
of anchovy or maltre d'h6tel butter, salt (if needed),
freshly-ground black pepper, minced parsley, chives,
4&C., and a small bunch of herbs ; cover with a good

LABGE FISH, WHOLE. 1^

rough puff paste and bake. When oooked remove ibe
bouquet, and pour in a little creamy b^cfaamei maigre.

Slices, Jdiied (Dames de Cabillaud en geletK

— Cut some cold boiled ood into flat, neat slices ; pour
some savoury aspic or fish jelly into a pan or tin to about
Jin. in depth, then lay on this, as it sets, the s&ed
fish, garnishing each slioe with a thin slice of hard*
boiled ^gg, or any device cut to taste from hard-boiled
^gg white, pickled walnut, truffle, &c. Set this with a
few drops of jelly, and, when it is firm, pour in sufficient
jelly to cover the fish, and leave it till quite hard, when
you cut out each slice, leaving a margin of jelly round
each. Dish these, one overlapping the other, down the
centre of a dish, and serve garnished with seasoned
watercress, and with horseradish cream in a boat.
Slices from any large fish may be served thus, varying
the garnish to suit the fish and individual taste. Any
chaufroix sauce may be used, or mayonnaise aspic —
green, red, white or yellow — to taste. It may V)e
observed that Uttle fillets treated in this manner make
an excellent garnish for any salad, and may be recom-
mended for Sunday supper, as the fish may Ije y^^W'mi
beforehand, the sauce also prepared at the same time, and
the salading left ready washed, so that the maid doin^
the cook's work will only have to toss the salad in th^
mixture (which should have been tightly corked rjown
in a wide-mouthed bottle), pile it on the dish, and arrarn/^.
the fish round it, garnishing this, if liked, with pi/tk^td
shrimps, quartered hard-boiled eggs, chf/pp^d /Jly,
^., as you choose.

a la SuMoise.—Fhkft fitiftly nmuit. *uM

cooked cod, freeing it from all bon#j» and nkin, fend i/*u

it lightly with a httle Su6doi«e wu/iij ; imiw yk^M )i )h

the centre of a ring of ookl mashed or w*/iW [y/t#t>^,

o2

i»( COLD FISH.

pour the rest of tlie Siiedoise sauoe over it all, strew it
with capers, shreds of chilli skins, &c., and serve. This
di-li may be varied almost indefinitely. For instance,
the fiah (which for this should be white) may be tossed
in mayonnaise, dished in a ring of cold boiled rice, and
a good, rich, cold curry sauce poured over all, and
served as poisson a Vindienne. Or, if salmon be chosen,
toss it in rich tomato mayonnaise, and dish it in a ring
of iced potato, garnished with shelled shrimps or prawns.
For the potato, rub three or four plainly boiled, medium-
sized potatoes through a fine wire sieve, stirring into
this puree a gill of rich b^haniel sauce, in which you have
previously dissolved |oz. of best leaf gelatine, season to
taste with salt, coralline pepper and a teaspoonful of
finely minced parsley, adding at the last about half a
pint of stiffly whipped cream ; fill a border mould with
this mixture, and set it on ice till quite firm, when it is
turned out, and the centre filled with the flaked salmon
and tomato mayonnaise piled up pretty high.

Dory in cream chaufroix (Dorade or St, Pierre
a la cremiere). — Cook the fish in a milk and water
court-bouillon, and leave it till cold ; then pour over
it a very creamy white chaufroix sauce, seasoned with
white pepper and lemon-juice, and serve, when this
is set, with a garnish of picked shrimps tossed in a
vinaigrette, or tomato sauce.

EeL Collared.— Km an eel, remove the head, tail,
and bones, and lay the eel, skin side down, on the table ;
pound some sage as finely as possible, mix it with freshly-
grated black pepper, a grate of nutmeg, some salt,
and, if liked, a little parsley and allspice ; lay this mixture
smoothly over the eel, and roll it up tightly, tying it into
shape with broad tape or a clean cloth. Put into a pan
iufhclerii salted ^^a\.fcx to Q»\^x \)tsfc ^h. generously,

LAEGB PISH, WHOLE. 21

add five or six cloves, the same of peppercorns, two
or three blades of mace, and a good bouquet (parsley,
thyme, bayleaf, and lemon peel), with the head, tail,
and bones of the eel, and boil till it is nicely flavoured ;
then lay in the eel, again let the liquor boil up,
draw it to the side, and allow it to simmer gently till
the fish is tender. Now take it out, boil up the liquor,
strain it, remove the fat, and pour it over the eel, and
let it all stand till cold, but do not take off the cloth
till you want to use it. When you take it out of its
cloth, wipe it well, and serve it whole or cut in slices,
as you please. The liquor in which it was cooked,
if clarified like any other stock and slightly aciddated
with either lemon-juice or vinegar, will make an excel-
lent garnishing jelly. This liquor will also serve as
a pickle to keep it, if not wanted for immediate u>ie.
It may be as well to observe here, that to kill the eel
at once, you should pierce the spinal marrow close U)
the base of the skull with a sharp pointed skewer ; if
done in the right place all motion ceases at once.

Galantine.— Alter killing it, skin a large

eel very carefully, bone it, and lay it open flat, spread
over it, with a knife, a nice fish farce (for this some
people use pike meat), and cover this with truffles,
cooked tongue, and gherkin, sliced small but not too
thinly, lay a little more farce over this, then roll the
eel up neatly, and sew it into shape ; wrap some slices
of bacon round it, lay it in a cloth, fastening the ends,
and sewing up the napkin that the fish may keep its
right shape ; now put it into a fish kettle, with a cooked
marinade, bring this well to the boil, and when it has
simmered for thirty to forty minutes (t.e., till the eel
is cooked) lift the galantine into an earthenware^basin,
pour the strained marinade over it, and allow it to

22 COLD FISH.

cool in its liquor. When cold remove the cloth care-
fully, wipe, and trim the eel, and brush it over with
savoury jelly. When this is quite set, garnish with
parsley, chopped jelly, and little balls of Montpelier,
or green butter, as you please. For the cooked marinade^
slice three carrots and four onions, with two bayleavea,
a spray of thyme, and two cloves, and toss these over
the fire in a little butter ; when the carrots and onions
are cooked, but not coloured, add some parsley, a chopped
Fallot or two, a dessertspoonful of flour, half a gill of
good vinegar, or lemon juice, a gill of strong fish stock,
salt and pepper to taste ; simmer this all for three-quarters
of an hour, then strain it through a horse-hair sieve
and use.

Potted, — Skin the eels, remove their back

bones, and cut them in lengths to fit your pot ; lay
them in this, seasoning them with salt, black pepper,
cayenne, and a little powdered mace ; add a few piecea
of butter, or well clarified dripping, and tie down the
dish with doubled brown paper ; bake in a slow oven
till thoroughly cooked, and when done pour off the
gravy, pressing them well that none may remain,
and when cold cover with clarified butter, about J inch
thick.

Haddock en Aspic. — Choose a nice large haddock
(almost any fish may be cooked this way), and after
cleansing it, insert inside it a carrot lightly brushed
over with butter, and trimmed on one side to make
it stand flat ; place the fiish in position in the fish kettle,
banking it up with a few soup vegetables, and cook
it in a court-bouillon ; when done, lift it out, and leave
it till perfectly cold before removing it from the strainer.
It should be cooked very slowly, allowing about ten
minutes to the pound. Ynafcii y^il^cxV^ «iV^, T^\jQa\e

^bt ekhi. and ma^ tke -^h aJi over -wft.n ttoe folmfwirt- :
Jbkt u ^ of dBxr. Bcnm^, thkniBL bbock qiiit^ uu:.
ftnd d ionoU 'L in it iimi i ftsz. XC' -jciz of bes: iea*
gekitme : wken tiiuF ir p eiiccliv iBeked anc ir ooo..
fldr into it iiaif a ^ of beEi aaiad oL. a labiBBpooniu
of atEUDfid ienMtt: jniot lor viiii^ tBTxagoL Tmegar .
and ite Inofien yoik of an e^. W.fieii tms is JEPesaimiui.
to set. ^ireiid it aver tkt feL ^witL a iioi. ifi^: fiftfeti^
knSe : ? j i mpgrix made tiiii^ fnodaoeB a fimootLL. jdia«ii<v.
ydlow BurlMse. flamiBh down tfie sides of tne utci:
diagDDaUy iFrhh weili^^wafiked and boeed anchovr £lift-
and fdiopped oin*^ or eapci&, and «pr¥e -wicL iitti^ i^ai»^
of ^ic^ped jefir Tcmnd it. ahematim: tiiBBe ^tL coic
eooted potato^ cut into bali^ th^ size of 8mall marrjier
tcMBBd in a TinaigFet^ aauoe A aiiee of iialibm if no;
at all bad done thiF -way. widisr trout of any iind answers
admiiaUy far it.

Halibut Steak {home de FieUin/. — Ciioose a nic^
tliif^ cut of eoM bo^udd iiaiibnt, mask it with a^pic-
Btaffened tomato mayouuaiBe. ^axt it ^th BOTourT
jdhr, Btxew it with minoed caperb. and fierce gaTnifii»*d
with fleaaoned wstercreBB, and a potato and tomatC'
fimyp'nnaiwp

Btewed, a la Juive. — Fry two mediiin.-

onionF minced in abont a taiiieflpoonful of oL
(a Httfe of ths minced onion fihouLd he hcpt iar ilie
fomeiweai) : wiien the DnionE are tender ky in ahout
sib. of hal&nt (cod, or indeed any wiiite -hsh wiH do
lor tins; and a pint of water, bring it to the boil then
let k ffimmer steadily till the -^t ib ccxiked, when you
ioB^ the £fih bot by the aide of the £re whilst yon make
the mwDe ; mix an omice of ^mr to a smooth past^
with a very little oc^ water^ add the yolks of four egg«
and the jnioe of three leniOD&, with a tiny pinch of

24 COLt) FISH.

saffron, mixing this all well together, then adding
enough of the fish Hquor to produce the amount of
sauce required ; thicken this well over the fire, pour
it on to the fish, add the little liver balls, and cook these
for a few minutes in the sauce, then set it all aside, till
cold. For the balls, cook the liver of a cod, then mince
it very finely, add a few breadcrumbs, the whites of
two eggs, the finely-chopped onion kept back for the
purpose, a little minced parsley, freshly-grated black
pepper, salt, and a tiny pinch of mixed spice. Roll
this into little balls, adding sufficient breadcrumbs
to produce the right consistency, and cook them for
a few minutes in the sauce. This dish is, by-the-way,
quite as good hot as it is cold.

Lobster, Moulded. — Choose a lobster mould for this
dish, oil the inside lightly, and place it on ice, line it
smoothly with tomato mayonnaise stiffened with
aspic jelly, being careful to have it of a very good colour,
and to pack the mould so evenly as to insure the shape
being neat when turned out ; meanwhile, trim the
fleilij of two lobsters (large crawfish may be used, or
even good tinned lobster for this dish) into large scallops ;
mince the trimmings and the flesh from the claws
into Uttle dice, which you mix with some cut up cooked
vegetables, varying these as > much as possible, and
seasoning them with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar ;
pack this in alternate layers all into the mould, and
cover it with a J inch layer of the tomato aspic ;
leave the mould on crushed ice till thoroughly firm.
Meanwhile, fill a square or oval baking tin with aspic
or savoury jelly, and leave this till perfectly set and
hard, when you turn it out on to the dish it is to be
served in, and turn the lobster mould out on to it,
garnishing this with little balls of Montpelier, or green

LABGB PISH, WHOLE. 25

'butter, and chopped aspic and seasoned watercress.
This is a great supper or buffet dish abroad, but is
quite as good if the whole is packed neatly into a plain
round Charlotte mould, and stood on a slice of bread
cut a size or two larger than the mould, fried a delicate
golden brown and biscuit crisp, then spread when
eold with a thick, even coating of maltre d'h^tel butter.
This may also be made with fillets of any cold fish,
only mixing a little lobster, minced shrimps or prawns,
kc., with the mac^oine. Lobster is so seldom served
cold save en mayonnaise that any detailed description
of its treatment must be given amongst the salads.

Mackerel, Boiled.— -Bemoye the heads, and thoroughly
cleanse, some soft-roed mackerel, remove the back-
bones, and halve the fish lengthways ; lay a piece of the
roe on each half ; dust each with pepper, salt, and a very
little sifted flour, and roll each half up tightly, tail out ;
pack these little rolls in a deep baking-dish, pour over
them sufficient vinegar (a little diluted with water)
to just cover them, season with fresh black pepper and
salt, cover the fish with a reversed plate, and bake one
and a half hours in a moderate oven. When cooked,
lift the fish out on to a clean dish, stir about a dessert-
spoonful of essence of anchovy (according to the size of
the dish) into the. fish liquor, and strain this on to the
fish. This dish, l^ the way, is as nice hot as cold.

Collmred. — Clean and split some nice large

mackerel, removing the heads and backbones (these
may be broiled and make an excellent savoury with
either cooked soft roes or broiled mushrooms), rub the fish
weU with a mixture of salt, freshly-ground h\sLck pepper,
mace, allspce, and cbves, all finely powdered ; roll the
fish up tightly, tying them into shape with broad tape
or strips of calico. Cook them in [acidulated and

26 COLD FISH.

salted water for twenty minutes or so, till ready, when
they are lifted out, placed in a piedish with sufficient
of their liquor to cover them, and left till next day.
\Vhen wanted for use, remove the tapes, return them
to the dish with the liquor, to which you add a little
more vinegar if necessary, and serve garnished with
sprays of fennel.

en Mayonnaise^ or a la Vert-pre, — Lift the

fillets off as neatly and whole as possible from the
requisite number of cold boiled mackerel, and arrange
these fillets evenly in fours, piling them as timber is
piled ; have ready a nice green mayonnaise flavoured
with minced tarragon and fennel, and pour this over the
piled-up fish, serving it garnished with sprays of
fennel and shelled prawns or shrimps, as preferred.
Another version of this is masked with tomato mayon-
naise, and decorated with seasoned watercress.

/S'o/^cd.— Cleanse some very fresh mackerel

\^ry carefully, and wipe them well inside and out with
a clean cloth ; meanwhile mix together in a crock half a
gallon of cold water, lib. of salt, Joz. saltpetre, and ilb.
of coarse brown sugar ; lay the fish into this, and leave
them to steep for six hours or so, according to size ; then
lift them out, straighten and stretch them well between
two laths, rinse them well with the pickle, and hang them
up by the head to dry. (For this the Scotch fisherwives
use triangles of three laths nailed together — with nails
run through them so that each fish hangs clear and
separate— and usually dry them in the open.) They
should dry for an hour or so, then be put in the smoke
in a hot corner for an hour, being shifted to a cooler
place and left in the smoke till they are of a rich dark
brown (this takes from eighteen to twenty-four hours).
tf'Jjen nicely coloured let them get c^uitejcold, then pack

them awaj in. & irj giacR oE -wmnjtei. ^jtt sjvaoM a
this recipe (kpeiiii» ifaiuiiR ^mnoBi^ in 1^ ipssiritsif- ir
the ma^ertL l&efeetRi "iRMZifL -tuub so^ rasKkr^
toasted, or flshked am£ it^intL with F.^mmi ir lauiuxL
salad, and make Miao^jB iKJanrttsk,

&c., is soosed.

AD these Sak ^ust.. znrr^wman^, -r-jfiKlfcrii: f
{dainly boiled vifi, §Kr»ni 'VkL w^mm, ^ccwdumi. rm
fennel or wateren*ss ; tanzHK. :^sDa3Usuut ^^snr. Iioia^L-
aise, or tomato jaoiK brnxi vs\r n m-mt vra iustzl n t.
boat. Abroad, tifii»se 'wlii iwL «r imftL 5r5*«. jrun. atiL
and bone^ and floksfi 3Ea&7~ imk^ x^/i mvtsr nc^i i.*T
this), piling the &ks» aufi 'sn. Tait tiiSL >«»ir I'wtjr zuir *
rich majotmarae aiux imLmraui wjzl miuotii yuxi^fj
or tarragoiL. and «r7» x^rwm^ wxa. ,^?»?ei. ii»i?3i»^»—
or fennel, and cbj&El 'a- jeannifc

weighing from 4§i!b, w -aR- jkw « isiSfssft vxi wh.\rT
enough to copier 'a, -wizk Tvr, '^xurjist. **k. sr.iick wi:z
three or four cki'7»aiv ^ iicTiii^ aJiepw. i^ jiuoe 'cf £>^
sweet and three Se7i9fe -wac^pBt acif -of iiae 'cr 'xc: ^^*
lemons, wiih a fuE wiEMtj^jLarf^ 6f uxstt : ix±^ 'liit iill
to the boil, then Hmmer ptejsir ^ i^ie htt tf owMssti,
when yon Hft it oris, with a sm^oer. DiBBolie loz^ 'j(
best leaf gelatine in the liquor the rndSet vas^ eook>

L*r^

in, simmering it gentlj till all is blended, then £tza£a
through a fine strainer on to the fifih, which should ha'ie
been placed in portion, back down, in a deep dish, and
held so by means of a fine skewer. As soon as the fish
is firmly fixed in the jeDy, draw out the skewer, pour
on the fish the rest of the jelly, and leave it for forty-
eight hours till perfectly set, when it is turned out, and
served garnished with nice spt^y^ ol ^fw^V^x.

28 COLD FISH.

-)<Redy en Mayonnaise. — Broil the fish, fillet

and bone them when cold, and derve covered^ with
mayonnaise flavoured with green tarragon and tarragon
vinegar, in the same way as is recommended for Mackerel
a la Vert-pre,

Pike in Jelly {Brocket en aspic).— Thoroughly cleanse
a pike, and either stuff it with a rich forcemeat, or put
inside a large carrot trimmed flat on one side and well-
coated with butter ; fasten up the fish, roll it in thinly-
sliced fat bacon, or a heavily-buttered paper, tie it up in
a clean cloth, and cook it till done in a court-bouillon,
with either Sauterne, or such like, or sherry, to which
you have added half its bulk of water and a good flavour-
ing of lemon-juice. When ready, lift it out and fix it
firmly in a pan, back up, as if swimming, pour its liquor
over it, and leave till perfectly cold. Now drain it
thoroughly, wipe it with a clean cloth, and with a sharp
knife make a deep cut each side the backbone, and
carefully remove the fillets on each side as whole and
cleanly as you can. Trim off the skin, and sUce the
fillets neatly (a process the consistency of this fish]renders
•easy), and then replace them in position. Brush the
fish over thoroughly with somejpretty stiff aspic jelly,
and when this is set, hft it on to its dish. A drainer,
OT a sheet of wood, neatly covered with a napkin, should
be set imder the fiish to raise it a little, but it must not
project as far as the garnish. For the latter various
things are adopted. Chefs use silver skewers, using
three or five according to the size of the fish, garnishing
them in pairs or in sizes, as they fancy, with crayfish
or prawns, hard-boiled egg yolks, truffles, gherkins, &c. ;
but a very satisfactory, if simpler decoration, may be
produced with halved hard-boiled eggs, the whites being
jS/Jed up with ^ shrimp, lobster, or ^anchovy butter,

LABiSX WJESL 'WM^HM,

arranged nMBd ite iA vJEmaer^ vill Mr^^ssnsmtr
bottoms jmj^wmJ ita^ ^i^gBH. mtL oL mul -^na^^st:^
and pikd 19 ni& a iiiuiiwni a: ahl flmax: vi^!?maia(^
mixed with mjuiiiiiiw a Jiaf -s^ Tok. wesnif putd^ec
OQ the top of CK&L ^11 ■■■■III f m mMsrumt imer ^kt^ ^
used, or any mMtti^ mlliuiu ^ il 'subbl iohl 'Susm^sXi
aq^. In the c wmuluii lanF m^ jan m sL i^ di&riLr di»i
to prepare^ asd im^t ax. fiiff^liffTr: ami xrufumiLU^i.
suj^er dkh. Ymmr j^^ na?' i^ iKT'^'tt. wnijitr lue
aalmon, d la MmMi^&ifer. or jr/rrasfr^^ciei. ae tdl ptsit^

«!& JSemmuam Bamss Jtnfsus: c. ic 2fe-

«iaaa£a<2ejL— Hit f^ h^ pa^gsrec |iR?Siifei^ ^ itifcr^.
but need not ia'i'P isst ^Iles aiifi&L. aiiC it vt-^v, , tj
garnished wizli ■mamrfi -vwCBxeraK aixc rvma,Uf^. £
handy : a TOBOfuiiMt WKaat issnnx^ &vDiniErc wnii.
mustard, both Frprtca: and KTtfiifiT iieiug Kfm k lab^
with it.

A tariamte ai tbk. kninn: a^ hfrxitoL c i^ jE:i^j(»f. k
made by piepaziag nbe &h a§ befoFb. and Msrviij^g r wki:
either horseiade^ cream or Snedtw eame. ])^o&diea&
to say, a lirge cizt from the middk of -im &11 may be
treated in the same ^wy, and is ako esselknt soiis^
Sturgeon, h msy be noted, is good if prepared \it sj^y
of the preeediog redpes, tiK>i2^ uBiiaDy a pi&oe of the
fish is udlided.

Salmon alaMonijtdier. — Oook the whole ^li in a good
oourt-bouillon stron^y fiaToured with white French
wine, being careful after the first boil-up onlr to let it
simmer, and to lift it off the fire the moment it is ready,
or it may break (h- tear, which would spoil the look <^
the dish. Put it in a deep dish, and alk>w it to become
perfectly cold in its liquor, then skin it carefully and
spread it thickly and evenly with Montp^lier butter,
smoothing the surface with a hot^ wet knife. Uave

30 COLD nSH.

this on ice till firmly set, then garnish by means of a bag
and pipe with butter beaten to a cream, and coloured a
very pale green with parsley greening, anchovy or
lobster butter of a rich red tint, and plain cream butter
left its natural tint. Dish neatly and serve garnished
with little dariols or croutons of aspic, crayfish, truffles,
&c., together with hdtelets or skewers to taste. This,
however, is a dish only fit for pubUc banquets, &c.,
and cannot fairly be expected from the ordinary plain
cook. A version she might, however, perfectly produce
is the simpler one loved by and known to the French
mendgire S3 S.ala Norvegienne, For this cook the fish,
as before, in a court-bouillon, and, when perfectly cold,
drain, wipe, and dish it, back up, fixing it into position
with crotitons of fried bread spread with green or
anchovy butter, brush it over evenly with aspic jelly,
and, as this is setting, garnish it down both sides with
washed and boned fillets of anchovy, applied diagonally
all the length of the fish, setting these with a little more
aspic. Serve with seasoned watercress and chopped
aspic jelly, green or tomato mayonnaise being handed
in a boat. If a little extra garnish is desired add a few
hardboiled and quartered eggs with the watercress.
Plover's eggs, when obtainable, make this into a most
recherche dish. The name is derived from the smoked
Norwegian anchovies used in the garnishing. A good
cut from a large fish, or whole trout, grilse, shad, bass,
or even large mackerel, can with advantage be treated
thus. It should be added that French cooks treat salmon
in this way constantly, varying the covering sauce to
taste, and the name also, accordingly, but it may be
forgiven an English cook for observing that for these
recondite dishes, with their strong additional flavours,
it js better to use the foreign and less self-flavoured

LARGE FISH, WHOLE. 31

fish, which does not suffer from the extraneous condi-
ments, as does our native fish, which is always best
served as plainly as possible.

a la Chevreuse. — For this a good cut from

the middle of the fish is usually taken, though of course,
if desired, the whole fish could be thus treated. Scale
and well wash a good cut, say 5lb. or 6lb. at least, wrap
it in thin sUces of larding or fat bacon, tying these on
with broad tape, and place the fish in a convenient-
sized fish kettle, moistening it to half its depth with
rich fish stock, strongly flavoured with Chablis or
Sauterne ; bring this to the boil, and let it simmer very
gently till done, then lift it into a pan and let it cool in
its own hquor. When nearly cold remove the bacon
and the skin, and trim it neatly. Lay the fish flat on
a reversed dish, and brush it all over with rather stiff
aspic. Divide the length mentally into five portions,
reserving three for the centre. Cover the two outside
parts with a smooth coating of yellow mayonnaise aspic,
and leave this till nearly set. For the centre have thinly
sliced cucumber, and arrange these slices in a row from
the outside band of mayonnaise, placing another row
over these to imitate the fish scales, graduating the
slices to the size of the fish, till all the parts left are
evenly covered with these pale green scales. For this
purpose, before sUcing the cucumber, instead of peeling
it entirely, just cut off the ridges so as to leave T)its of
the skin, and thus give it a frilly sort of look. When this
is finished, fix it all with a little just liquid aspic to keep
itjteady, and glaze it. Finish it by forcing out lines of
truffle butter at the edges, and just half an inch or so
inside the bands of mayonnaise at the ends, and little
stars of Montp61ier butter down the centre of each
yellow band. Press out a thick rope of chopped aspic

32 COLD FISH.

all round the fish, and garnish beyond this with tri-
angular blocks of aspic. Send a sauce ravigotte to table
with this dish. Trout, &c., can also be done thus,
it being more troublesome than difficult to produce.

Salmon may, of course, be soused or pickled like any
other fish. Another fact that few housewives appear
to recognise is that salmon head and shoulder, or the
tail end piece, may be utilised for any decorative dish
quite as well as the more costly middle cut ; the tail end
especially is excellent for practice, for no one cares to
set before their friends either their own or their cook's
trial trips ! Always have a new dish, however easy the
directions may sound, carefully tested, before the results
are made public. In France, where these parts of the
fish are not as despised as they are with us, a hure de
saumon, or a queucy is constantly served a la anything
you please.

Pie, — Skin and bone 2lb. or 3lb. of salmon

and trim it into neat slices, sprinkling these with white
pepper, salt, and a little minced spice. Have ready a rich
forcemeat of white fish (haddock, whiting, &c., as pre-
viously described), made with Jib. of fish ; line a raised
pie mould with a nice raised crust, and line this an inch
thick with forcemeat, placing on this some of the salmon,
and repeating these two layers till the dish is full, the
filling being raised in a dome shape and well packed in.
Cover with puff paste and bake very slowly. When
cooked, let it rest for half an hour, then add the following
gravy and serve when perfectly cold. For the gravy
boil together 4oz. of lean ham cut into dice, one shallot,
2oz. of sliced carrot, a nice bouquet, and a claretglassful
of Chablis, and let it boil till the wine is reduced one-
fourth part ; then add a gill of strong white stock
{chicken or veal), simmer it together for half an hour.

LARGE FISH, WHOLE. 33

strain, and add it to half a pint of rich, and very strong,
fish stock, and pour this all into the pie when cold. If
the fish stock is not strong enough to jelly of itself,
dissolve in it ioz. or so of best leaf gelatine, and use. For
maigre purposes use smoked salmon, and strong fish
stock, for the ham, and chicken stock.

Salmon and Lobster Pie. — Well wipe from lib. to 2lb. of
salmon and cut it into three or four slices ; chop up a
tin of lobster, or a small lobster, and stir it into half a
pint of rich bechamel sauce (we always use three-quarters
of a pint of good, well-made lobster sauce instead of this).
Butter a medium-sized piedish, and put into it a layer of
the sauce, then a slice of salmon, repeating these layers
till fish and sauce are alike used up, seasoning each
layer as you add it with white and coralline pepper,
salt, and a very little mace and nutmeg ; sliced truffle
or hardboiled egg may also be introduced between the
layers ; now pour in sufficient rich fish stock to moisten
it, lay six or seven little fish quenelles on the top of all,
dotting Joz. to ?oz. of butter, cut up small, over the sur-
face, and cover with a good puiBf paste cover decorated with
pastry leaves, &c., and brush it over with beaten egg
yolk. Bake in a fairly hot oven for an hour. This is as
good hot as cold.

Sole a la Colbert — Make an incision down the side of
the backbone on the dark side of the fish, and break the
backbone thus uncovered in two or three places with
the handle of a cook*s knife, being careful not to spoil
the look of the fish. Now egg and breadcrumb it in
the usual way, and fry a golden brown in plenty of hot
fat. The flesh will shrink from the bone in the cooking.
When ready to lift it out, drain well, then remove the
broken backbone entirely, and fill up the cavity thus
left with either a d*uxellea mixtMC^, at ^^fc\i^ ^x ^M^^Nst^

34 COLD FISH.

d'h6tel butter as you please. Serve the fish when
perfectly cold either plain, or with any cold sauce, such
as mayonnaise, tartare, or mousseline glac6e, to taste.
Plainly boiled sole, or sole stewed in milk, is very nice
cold if the bone is treated in this way and the hollow
filled up with Gascony butter, anchovy cream or lobster
sauce being served in a boat with it.

Soles pickled^ Cape fashion, — Slice and fry four large
onions in hot oil till browned, then add loz. of curry
powder, two finely-minced chillies, a dessertspoonful of
salt, and loz. mango relish or chutney ; stir this all to a
paste, moistening it with a little vinegar. Now lay two
large, fresh, filleted soles in a jar, packing these with
alternate layers of the previous paste ; cut two more
onions into rings, and boil these with a little salt and
another ounce of curry powder in a quart of good vinegar
(less that used in moistening the curry and chutney
paste) very gently and slowly till tender. Now pour
all this over the soles and do not cover or cork down the
jar till perfectly cold. This is fit for use in a few days,
though it will keep for months. Specially nice for
lunch.

Sturgeon is very good if prepared either by the recipes
given for pike or for salmon. Only remember it is a
very firm, not to say tough, fish, so prolonged and gentle
simmering is needed to cook it properly. Its flesh is so
like veal that it may be served in many ways recom-
mended for the latter, and is particularly good en galavr
tine.

Trout, salmon or otherwise, is good cooked, if large,
by any recipes suggested for salmon. If small, the trout
should be boiled or broiled, left till cold, and served plain
with a garnish of seasoned watercress and any cold sauce
to taste in a boat. It may also be soused or pickled.

LARGE FISH, WHOLE, 35

Turbot en aspic. — Skin and fillet a turbot, keeping the
four fillets as whole and neat as possible, place them in a
well-buttered baking tin, sprinkling them with a little
Chablis or Sauteme, lemon juice, coralline pepper and
salt. Cover with a buttered paper, and bake in
the oven according to size and thickness. When cooked
lift them out carefully and set them on a dish, reversing
another over them and lightly weighting this to keep
the fillets flat and even. Prepare a nice d'uxelles, or a
mince of shrimps, or lobster mixed with tomato aspic,
and when the fish is perfectly cold dish the imder fillets
side by side in position, and spread them thickly with
the farce described ; now cover with the other two fillets,
keeping the shape of the fish as much as possible,
pour over it sufficient jelly to cover it neatly, and leave
this till set. Now trim off the superfluous aspic, and
force out a thick rope of chopped aspic round the fish,
garnishing it with seasoned watercress, and the little
moulds of stuffed olives given in the first chapter. Of
course this garnish may be as varied as you please ;
prawns, olives preserved in oil, plovers' eggs, hard boiled
stuffed eggs, &c., being used according to taste and
convenience.

Pie, — Three parts cook a small turbot in a

nice court-bouillon, then lift it out, removing the skin and
the bones, and cut the fish into neat pieces ; arrange a
layer of these pieces in a well-buttered piedish, seasoning
this well with white pepper, salt, a very little powdered
nutmeg, a grate of lemon rind, and some minced parsley
and chives (failing these use very finely-minced shallot),
cover with a layer of sliced hard boiled egg^ and well-
washed fillets of anchovy, moistening these with some
rich b^hamel sauce or thick cream, and continue these
layers till the dish is full, raising it well ycl \?Cifc ^K«iQ«.*
T> 1

36 COLD FISH.

Dot the top over with morsels of butter, cover with a
good puff-paste, decorated to taste, and bake for an
hour in a moderate oven. This may be eaten hot as well
as cold. If preferred, the fish may be cut up whole, the
bones and skin being left on. Any white fish may be
treated in this way, the addenda being varied to match.

CHAPTEE ni.

MAYONNAISE, VINAIGEETTES, &c.

The fashion of serving cold fish appears to be spreading,
and most cooks can now send to table cold fish in one or
two ways, though it must be confessed that mayonnaise,
whether pf salmon, lobster, or other fish, is usually the
pQce de resistance on such occasions. Now a good many
people who aver that they cannot touch either of the
two first-named fish, denounce the unwholesomeness of
fish mayonnaise on account of the richness both of the
fish and of the i^uce. As regards the fish, this is very
probably a mistake, though I admit as much cannot be
said for the sauce, especiallyif the dish has been prepared
some time before serving it, the sauce having in conse-
quence deteriorated to a painful extent. Mayonnaise
sauce exposed to the air is very apt to become rank and
strong, the oil being especially evident, in which condi-
tion it is not the most digestible condiment available,
and a rich fish, such as salmon for instance, allowed to
steep in this compound, naturally does not become more
eupeptic. If these objectors would try their fish simply
dressed with a cold [oil and vinegar (French salad) dress-
ing, I think they would very hkely find that even lobster
would agree fairly well ; try the following, for instance :
Flake the fish^up neatly (or ii a\o\i^\fcT\» \>sfe^^<5N5^»\5sss^

38 COLD FISH.

into nicefpieces), and toss the fish lightly in a vinaigrette
sauce made thus : Mix together a dessertspoonful of
French mustard (or use half English, half French), a
saltspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of freshly-
ground black pepper ; moisten this carefully and gradu-
ally with salad oil and vinegar, using a teaspoonful of
vinegar to every eight teaspoonfuls of oil ; when this is
well blended, stir in a tablespoonful of minced parsley,
chives, chervil, tarragon, &c., adding however two parts
of parsley to each part of the other herbs. This sauce
may be varied by using plain vinegar and omitting the
tarragon ; or anchovy vinegar and minced mustard and
cress may be used ; this is especially good with any form
of shellfish. (Anchovy vinegar may be bought at most
good Italian warehouses, or it may be made at home by
the recipe given in No. III. of this series on "Pickles and
Preserves " ; or lastly, where the clearness of the sauce is
not of so much importance, a teaspoonful of Burgess's
essence of anchovy may be stirred in a gill of the best
malt vinegar.) When the fish has been thoroughly but
lightly mixed with this dressing, it should be lifted into
the dish it is to be served in, surrounded with quartered
lettuces, and dusted with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg
crushed through a sieve* This last is of course a matter
of taste. For those who like it, a boatful of mayonnaise
sauce, may be sent to table with this, though it is not a
necessity. Almost any fish may be prepared in this way,
and few, save those who have tried it, know how good
the most ordinary cold fish can be if treated in this
manner. Needless, presumably, to add, this form of
fish salad can be elaborated to any extent by the addition
of washed, boned, and filleted anchovies, caviar, oUves
(stoned and farced, or not, as preferred), shrimps, or
prawns, &c., according to the fish used.

MAYONNAISE, VINAIGRETTES, «&c. 39

The following recipes will give some idea of the way in
which cold fish of all kinds may be served.

Fish Fillets in Mayonnaise, — ^Take the fillets from
any nice cold, cooked fish, trim them neatly, lift each
separately on a broad-bladed or palette knife, and with a
spoon ladle over each in turn any nice mayonnaise
aspic (using three large tablespoonfuls of any good
mayonnaise — plain, white, green, red, &c., as you please
— to half a pint of just liquid aspic, stirring it well
together till it begins to thicken, then use) ; leave these
till set, then brush them over lightly with very clear
aspic, just to glaze them ; dish, when set, either en
couronne^ filling the centre with any good salad mixed
with mayonnaise, or on a border of plain aspic, or on a
border lined with aspic; and filled up with any salading,
or macMoine of cold cooked vegetables, mixed with
either a vinaigrette or a mayonnaise dressing to taste.
Needless to say, the fish may be dressed thus after it has
appeared hot, or it may be cooked and allowed to cool
under a weight, the latter being the preferable method
if for a dinner or supper party. The method of serving
may be varied indefinitely. For instance, if each fillet
is dished in a different coloured aspic, say, tomato,
white, and green, it is called Filets de so-and-so a la
Pompadour: if masked alternately with green and white
mayonnaise, with salad in the centre, a garnish
of cucumber, and white of hard-boiled eggs, it is known
as Filets de so-and-so a la Due de Naples. If masked
with a rich creamy white chaufroix, mounted on an
aspic border, with a mayonnaise of peas, or asparagus
points in the centre, it is called Filets de so-ftnd-so d la
Princesse (this is a favourite way of serving salmon) ;
or again, if masked with a pale green cucumber sauce
stiffened with gelatine, witlv a ^^ o\ ^\ms^«!^ckws ^is^

40 '. COLD FISH.

tomatoes in the centre, it is called Filets aux Con-
combrea, (Thia is an especially good way of serving
salmon, whether twice cooked or canned.)

Salad, — Flake the remains of any nice cold

white fish, such as turbot, brill, dorey, sole, halibut, &c.,
removing all skin and bone (cooks can save themselves
much trouble, and improve the appearance of their
salads, if they will remember to remove the bones and
skin from any fish intended for subsequent reappearance
as mayonnaise, &c., whilst it is still hot, as the flesh
comes away much cleaner and entire than if flaked
when absolutely cold) ; now lay these flakes in a deep
dish and pour over them sufficient oil and vinegar,
seasoned with salt and pepper, to reach halfway up the
fish flakes, and leave it all to marinade in this for a couple
of hours, turning it once or twice in the process. When
ready drain well, and pile the fish in the centre of a
bowl, arranging tiny pats or balls of anchovy butter
amongst it ; slice two or three cold cooked potatoes,
add to them some capers, some sliced or minced gherkins,
a slice or two of beetroot minced, and some fillets of
anchovy, toss these all in rather thin mayonnaise sauce,
and pile the mixture, dome-fashion, over the fish, finally
garnishing and surrounding it all with broken-up
lettuce, &c., and sliced hard-boiled egg. This is a dish
that may, manifestly, be varied to taste.

(Mock Crab d la Wyvem), — ^This excellent

salad invented by the culinary writer whose name it
bears, is said to have the merit of possessing all the
flavour of a shellfish salad without its dyspeptic dangers.
Anyway, hygienic or not, it is sufficiently good to justify
its existence. Shred any white fish as before into small
flakes with two forks, lay these shreds in a bowl, season-
ias' tbem well with salt and ^epa\ v^i^^i \ (or l^lb. of

MAYONNAKE, VINAIGRETTES, Ac. 41

the shredded fish mix well together a gill of anchovy
vinegar, two tablespoonfnls of made mustard, and a full
tablespoonful of salad oil (working tliis all well together
till thoroughly amalgamated), and moisten the fish with it,
dusting the mass with four tablespoonf uls of finely-grated
Gruydre or Cheddar cheese (do not use Parmesan for
this), and toss it all well together with the salad servers ;
dish this mixture in a dome shape in the salad bowl,
and serve garnished with seasoned watercress, sliced
tomatoes, lettuce, cucumber, quartered or sliced, hard-
boiled eggs, chopped aspic, &c., according to what you
have at hand, and set it on ice till wanted. A boat of thin
mayonnaise may be sent to table with it. It should
be added that this salad is perhaps nicest if made with
eod.

In Cases. — Shred any white fish finely

and marinade it as before, then mix it lightly with
julienne strips of hard-boiled egg white, anchovy fillets,
minced olives, and any finely broken-up salading to
taste ; now mix this well with a little mayonnaise, and
pile it up high in little paper or china cases or shells,
then cover it smoothly with mayonnaise, garnishing
this with strips of red chilli skin (from the pickle bottle),
tiny fillets of anchovy, stoned olives farced with anchovy
or lobster butter, &c., to taste. This dish, known as
Petites eaisseSy or Coquilles^ de poisson en Mayonnaise, is a
wonderfully economical one, as all sorts of scraps may
be used up ; for instance, a spoonful or two of bbster,
oyster, or shrimp sauce left over is always an improve-
ment, whilst the foundation need not by any means be
Confined to one sort of fish.

(for a Sunday supper).— Flake up the

remains of any nice fish free from skin and bone, and
mix it in a basin with some picked shrimps (blanched

42 COLD FISH,

and cut up scallops, prawns, lobster, oysters, &c., may
all be used), anchovy fillets, olives stoned and farced,
or plain, minced parsley, sliced or minced hard-boiled
eggs, &c., according to what is handy, till the basin is
nearly full (it must not be tightly packed), then pour
in gently sufficient just liquid aspic to fill it and to cover
the fish, and put it aside to set. Make some good and
rather rich mayonnaise, to which, just at the last,
you stir in a tablespoonful of absolutely boiling water
for each full half-pint of sauce, then cork it up tightly
m a wide-necked bottle, and put it away in a cool place.
Now, if the cook will well wash the lettuce and other
salading the very last thing before she goes up to dress
for her outing, and leaves it to drain in the hung-up
basket in a cool corner, whoever takes her work, during
her outing, will only have to dip the basin in hot water,
wiping the surface to remove any moisture, and then
reverse it on a dish ; it is then garnished with the dry
salading, and the sauce may be either poured over this
garnish or sent to table in a separate boat. This makes
a pretty and appetising dish, and the mayonnaise, being
well-corked down, does not acquire the rank, coarse taste
which is the result of long-standing exposed to the air.

a Vltalienne. — Free some cold, cooked cod

or other firm white fish, flaking it as much as possible
into shell-like pieces, breaking up the rest small, and
tossing it with two forks with shrimps, anchovy fillets,
dice of hard-boiled egg, capers, &c., seasoning it lightly
but thoroughly with a vinaigrette dressing, and let it
stand till well flavoured ; then pile it up in the centre of a
dish, arrange some fresh, well-washed salading of any
kind in a ring round the fish, dust it all with freshly-
ground, black pepper, and, if liked, a little grated
P&rmes&n; oover-the dome ol feliVv\\v«ciTaft x«A,hftr thin

MAYONNAISE, VINAIGRETTES, &c. 43

tomato sauce, in which you have previously stirred a
spoonful (according to quantity) of anchovy vinegar,
and, if liked, a little grated Parmesan ; now arrange the
shell-pieces round the green stuff, filling each with some
tiiick tomato pur6e or mayonnaise, and garnishing
ibis with a little ball of egg butter, a rolled fillet of
ancboyy, a little caviar, or, in fact, anything handy,
and serve.

{MHangie), — Cook a small, smoked haddock in

milk, or take the remains of a cold cooked one and flake
it small, free from skin and bone. Cook a small, fresh
haddock or codling and leave it till cold ; or take an
equivalent amount of cold cooked salmon, lemon sole,
or other cold fish, and flake it up. Well wash and dry
a ** mixed salad," and break it up pretty small (do not
cut it with a knife), put it into a basin with a good supply
of French salad dressing, and toss it well together till
thoroughly saturated with the dressing ; then lift it out
into the salad bowl, add to it a very finely-minced
shallot, or some minced chives or very small spring
onions, the flaked fish, a small tin of royans, or sardines
(previously boned and skinned), a spoonful of anchovy
vinegar, and a Uttle more oil, toss it well together, and
serve, after strewing the surface of the saktd with a
handful of picked shrimps. This saktd is very economical,
as it will use all sorts of fish scraps, for the greater the
variety the more people seem to like it. For instance,
cold cooked salt cod, flaked, may be used with minced
anchovies and dice of hard-boiled egg, instead of the
fresh fish and the shrimps ; or canned prawns, caviar, a
mould of the well-known thon marine, a tin of royans
h la moutarde, or aux tomates, or fillets of kippered fish
or bloaters (especiedly if previously soaked in a little
milk), may all be utilised.

44 , COLD FISH.

a VAnglaise. — Put into a salad bowl a layer

of broken-up fresh lettuce strongly seasoned with oil,
vinegar, salt, and freshly-ground black pepper, and on
this put a layer of flaked fish tossed in mayonnaise ; then
arrange round it hard-boiled eggs halved lengthwise,
the yolks removed and the cavity filled with minced
shrimps, prawns, &c., tossed in oil, vinegar, salt and
pepper. Finish with little tufts of seasoned watercress,
and serve at once. To be eaten in perfection this salad
must be freshly made.

aux Tomates. — This salad depends entirely

on its dressing, for fish of any kind may be used, one
sort or more, according to what is handy, whilst the
salad may be fresh, or composed of a mac6doine of cold
cooked vegetables, as you please. For the sauce : Crush
the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with a wooden spoon,
mixing them smoothly with a raw egg yolk, then mix
in drop by drop, stirring continuously, half a gill of
salad oil, till it is all perfectly smooth and thick ; in a
separate basin mix half a teaspoonful of mustard flour,
a saltspoonful of caster sugar, a dust of cayenne or
coralline pepper, and, lastly, a small tablespoonful of
good vinegar, and a teaspoonful each of tarragon and
anchovy vinegar ; now work this all smoothly with two
or three tablespoonfuls of tomato pulp or purfe, and
lastly mix it smoothly with the egg, oil, &c. Another
dressing that answers excellently for these salads is the
following, sometimes known as " English mayonnaise " :
Mix together well the yolk of one hard-boiled eg^, a
teaspoonful of mustard, a quarter of a teaspoonful each
of salt and pepper, then add in, drop by drop, very
slowly, sufficient good salad oil to get the mixture as
thick as custard or butter ; finally adding a teaspoonful
eaeJi of (Lazenhy's) Harvey sauce, Worceater sauce, chilli.

or i.* i.1 u::!r. z..:.i

T'LTIt.S ir% ±

ii.1 ZLt j: :z z

:i.»Tr^ -1".. i. -i-'

■ar:-.-_ '.J^-ri,.'.! -_

&..<. « .. I..

46 COLD FISH.

Fisherman s Salad. — Slice six cold boiled potatoes
(the waxy ones are best for this) ; flake about 1 Jib. of
any good cold boiled fish, freeing it from any skin or
bone ; shred the quarter of a nice firm cabbage as for
cold slaw, and lay these in a salad bowl ; next lay in the
sliced potato, and lastly the fish. Sprinkle over all this
a tablespoonful each of minced onions or chives, and
pickles, dust in a little freshly-ground pepper, finally
pouring over it all a coffee-cupful of good vinegar and
one and a half teacupfuls of salad oil. Sieve the yolks
of two hard-boiled eggs over the mixture, garnish with
the whites cut into julienne strips, and serve.

Sardine Salad, — Break up a well-washed and drained
lettuce rather small, and put it into a salad bowl, lay
on this a tomato and cucumber, sliced, and strew over
it three or four finely-minced spring onions, or an equal
quantity of minced chives ; pour over it all a cup of
mayonnaise (either plain or tomato) or a French salad
dressing. Toss it all well together, sprinkle it with
minced tarragon and chervil, and garnish with
quartered hard-boiled eggs, skinned and boned sardines,
and little bunches of picked and seasoned watercress.
Another version of this salad (sometimes called a
Vespagnole) is made thus : Skin and bone as many
sardines as are necessary, and cut them into neat pieces ;
put these into a basin with one or more spoonfuls of
capers (according to quantity), mix it with some finely
broken-up lettuce, and toss it all till thoroughly
moistened in a French salad dressing ; then arrange it all
in a salad bowl, garnishing it with sliced and seasoned
tomatoes, and stoned olives stuffed with anchovy, green,
or Glascony butter.

Herring Salad, — Choose the Dutch pickled herring for
tills. Fillet and cut up two o! theae hetriivgs, slice down

MAYONNAISE, VINAIGRETTES, &o. 47

some cold waxy potatoes, and mix with them six
washed, boned and minced anchovies, one apple, cored
and minced, a small cooked beetroot cut into little dice,
and some pickled onions ; mix it all well with a good
French salad dressing, and serve garnished with chopped
hard-boiled egg, capers, minced parsley, and some of
the beetroot.

Oyster Salad. — Beard some oysters and blanch them
in their own liquor (being careful that they do not
actually boil), then quarter them ; wash a small head
of celery, shred it into julienne strips, and throw it into
cold water to crisp it, then drain the celery, mix it with
the oysters, season it all with pepper, and put it all in some
white mayonnaise ; pile it up in a glass dish, and mask it
smoothly with more mayonnaise; garnish with sliced
hard-boiled egg and caviar, both lightly seasoned with
oil and lemon juice. The decoration of this salad may
be varied to taste ; for instance, some people always add
sliced and seasoned tomato, whilst others again use
cold cooked celeriac, or salsify, instead of celery.

Caviar Salad,— This b properly more of a hors
d'oeuvre than a salad, still for lunch or supper it makes
a very pretty little dish. Have ready as many small,
richly-cobured tomatoes as you require, cut off a
slice from the top, and remove the seeds and core with
a teaspoon^ press back the flesh of the tomato with
the bowl of the spoon, and season them inside with
freshly-ground black pepper and a sprinkle of oil and
lemon juice ; then set them aside on ice till wanted.
Now turn out a small pot of Russian caviar (the grey-
green large-berried kind if procurable is the best), and
mix it lightly with two tablespoonfuls of oil and one
of lemon juice, being careful not to crush the caviar.
Set this also on ice tfll wanted^ xY^ti ^\^^:^n6 '^ ^»»ks«^^!^

48 , COLD FISH,

slice of hard-boiled egg (cut transversely, not length-
ways) in each tomato, pile on this some of the caviar,
curl a halved prawn round the top, setting an olive
farced with anchovy butter on each, and serve. Any
fisli may be served in this way with the caviar, and
makes a pretty variety.

The above will show that there is plenty of variety
in serving cold boiled fish, but what few cooks appear
to realise is the use of cold fried fish for this purpose.
Cold fried smelts may be boned and filletted, and served
with broken up lettuce, tossed in tomato mayonnaise,
and garnished with anchovy fillets, hard-boiled and
quartered egg (plover's or otherwise), chopped aspic,
&c., according to taste and the material available.
Cold whitebait again is a thing one seldom sees, yet
few salads are more dainty than a pile of delicately-
fried cold whitebait, lightly sprinkled with oil, lemon
juice or white tarragon vinegar, and coralline pepper,
surrounded by the hearts of young cabbage lettuce
(and, for those who like it, a sprinkling of minced
chives or very tiny " thread " or spring onions), very
small round radishes, &c., and some white mayonnaise
handed in a boat. Fish fillets also, if baked or poached,
seasoned with a little lemon juice, salt, and coralline
pepper, and pressed till cold between two plates, after
which they are trimmed, decorated with hard-boiled
egg, truffle, &c., and masked with aspic jelly, make
a very pretty border for salad of any kind, especially
for the Sunday supper above referred to ; the salad
(which may be fresh, or a mac6doine of cold cooked
vegetables, or, at a pinch, the contents of a can of mac6-
doine) being mixed with vinaigrette or mayonnaise
as you please, and finally set by pouring into the basin
as much juat liquid aspic as it will hold ; leaving it till

MAYONNAISE, VINAIGRETTES, &c. 49

cold and firm, when it may be turned out, and served
with the fish fillets arranged round it, with little heaps
of chopped aspic.

The space at my disposal is far too restricted to allow
of anything like an exhaustive description of the (liter-
ally) hundreds of salads, even of fish, which may be
met with, still the above will give some idea of how
to procure some change from the everlasting, and often
" strong," lobster or salmon mayonnaise. But the
salad-maker should remember that freshness and
dainty simplicity are the keynotes of success in this
matter. People are so anxious to make their salads
" good," as they term it, that they cram every kind
of ingredient and a heterogeneous assortment of spices
and sauces into the salad bowl, till nothing but the
name on the menu enables one to guess the foundation
of the dish before one. As with everything else, each
salad should have its own distinct and recognisable
flavour, enhanced maybe, but never overpowered,
by judiciously chosen adjuncts. Cold boiled British
salmon, for instance, calls aloud for lemon juice and
perhaps a few capers, though connoisseurs are still
divided whether a vinaigrette should accompany it,
or a mayonnaise, many averring the latter to be too
strong a condiment for the native fish, though welcome
with Dutch or frozen fish. Again, orange (especially
Seville orange) juice and even a little of the pulp care-
fully freed from pith and pips, is held a great addition
to any white fish salad, especially of soles, lemon or
otherwise, and plaice. Smelts go well with tomato
and cucumber (few people appear to know how good
hot tomato sauce is with fried smelts by the way) ;
mackerel have most flavour if dished with tomato
mayonnaise, and some finely-imiie^^l^iiXi!^ \<yj^$i^\ss^^^

50 COLD FISH.

and filletted herring, especially if from Ijoch Fyne,
is delicious if served with tartare sauce, seasoned water*
cress, and, if liked, a dusting of finely-minced chives
or spring onions. Sardine sauce again is an ideal
complement to cold halibut, or fish of that class, whilst
cold salt (or fresh) cod salad with a dressing ^ la Ste.
M6n6hould is as uncommon as it is good. Only re-
member, keep your flavours distinct and clear and
your salad itself as daintily simple as possible. The
best salad I ever ate was made by a well-known French
chef, famous for the delicacy of such dishes when he
prepared them, but I saw that very salad passed over
by the pupils (it was a class at an exhibition), con-
temptuously as ** only a lobster salad ! an^^ one can make
that ! and just a plain thing, without a bit of garnish ! **
And they turned admiring and reverent eyes towards
a weird and awful production, concerning which I
never was absolutely certain whether it was sweet or
savoury, or indeed whether it was not the discarded
hat of one or other of the assistants !

CHAPTEE IV.

MOULDS, CREAMS, Ac.

Few dishes look prettier than a nicely and daintily
prepared mould of fish, and this possesses the advantage,
moreover, of being very economical, using up all sorts
of scraps, and of really involving but little trouble
or work. Once a cook has mastered the s^t of making
aspic jelly, in itself really a most simple process, she
can produce any number of pretty dishes with the
remains of last night's dinner ; for instance, if she
lines any mould, either border or plain, about a quarter
of an inch thick with aspic jelly, she can fill this with
any remains of fish, flaked free from skin and bone»
lightly seasoned with pepper, sc^t, oil, and vinegar, and
any accessories such as shrimps, prawns, scraps of
lobster, hard-boiled egg, &c., that she may happen
to have at hand, tossing the whole lightly in mayon-
naise of any kind, or, failing this, a little of the just liquid
aspic ; cover this all with a layer of the plain aspic, and
put it aside till perfectly set ; it can then be turned out,
and if a border mould was used, the centre may be
filled up with seasoned watercress, or any sc^ad to taste
in season ; if a plain charlotte mould was used, garnish
the mould round with the salading, and you have a
very pretty dish out of what might have been an unpro-
ducible set of scraps. Then a%«ix^ «b?s -^ovjL^as^^nNsScv.

52 COLD FISH.

over from the previous day two or three paupiettes
(rolled fillets) of sole (black or lemon), indeed any
fish will answer; line some small moulds with aspic
jelly, halve each paupiette horizontally, set a half in
each mould, fixing it in place with a little more aspic
jelly, then cover with a slice of seasoned tomato or
cucumber, as you please, cover this again with aspic
jelly, and leave till firm, when you turn out the little
moulds, and serve them with a garnish of salad, or of
chopped aspic to taste. Another method of using
the remains of cold fillets is the following : Choose a
plain mould, and again line it with aspic jelly ; lay on
this, in any pretty pattern, the cold fillets (if paupiettes
slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, if ordinsury
fillets stamp them out into cutlet shapes, dusting them
with a little coralline pepper and minced parsley),
arranging them neatly round the sides and on the top ;
of course the more daintily this is done the prettier
will be the result. Set these with sufficient aspic jelly
to produce an even surface, then chop up all the trim-
mings of the fish, mixing it with, say, half a pint of
shelled shrimps, or the flesh of a small lobster, or indeed
any remains of fish handy may be utilised for this,
season lightly with pepper and salt, and mix them
with any good mayonnaise you like (if you have
any remains of lobster, shrimp, or scallop sauce, stir
this in the above) ; now pour a little just liquid aspic
into the mixture, fill the mould up with the latter, and
put it aside to set.

Another pretty dish of the same kind is Fifh Custard^
made by preparing a savoury custard with the yolks of
three or four eggs, two gills of the court-bouillon in which
the fish was cooked, and one gill of milk, seasoning this
with salt, pepper, and mace to taste, stirring in at the last

MOULDS, CREAMS, &c. 63

about loz. of best leaf gelatine, previously dissolved in a
very little milk or fish stock ; if you wish your dish to be
extra nice, you will add to this as it cools half a gill or
more of stiffly-whipped cream. Have ready the cold
fish, either flaked into neat pieces or stamped out as
before, together with one hard-boiled egg or so, sliced,
and about one-third the quantity of shelled shrimps,
prawns, or lobster roughly minced, as you have of fish ;
stand the mould, if possible, on ice, and arrange on it a
pretty pattern with halved prawns or large shrimps,
sliced cucumber, cold cooked peas, shreds of chilli skin,
tiny picked sprays of parsley and chervil, in short any
garnish you please ; now set this very gently with a little
of the custard, then put in a layer of the fish, strewing
over it some of the minced shrimps, &c., and again cover
it with the layer of custard, repeating these two layers
till the mould is full, being careful to finish with the
stiflfened custard. Put this aside till set, then turn it out,
and serve garnished with seasoned watercress and
tomato salad. This dish may obviously be varied almost
ad infinitum, according to the ingredients at hand, and
has the advantage of using up a most miscellaneous and
mixed variety of fish. Lastly, there are the Fish Creams
or purees. To three gills of good, strong, strained
fish stock (this can obviously be made with the court-
bouillon in which the fish was originally cooked, and in
which for the purpose you have boiled the bones and
fish trimmings to further strengthen it), add Joz. of
dissolved leaf gelatine, mixing this all with lOoz. of any
nice fish carefully pounded with 4oz. of butter, or a gill
of thick cream, and season to taste with salt, white
pepper, and mace ; when this is nearly cold add in a gill
of cream (if you have not already used cream in the
mixture), stir it well and poui it. m\;o ^ ^ycl ^2w&:^kNX^

54 COLD FISH.

mould (which may, or may not, have been lined with
aspic jelly, or chaufroix sauce), mixing with the fish
as you pack it, seasoned oysters, shelled shrimps, halved
prawns, shred lobster, or little heaps of caviar, according
to what you have at hand, being careful, however, always
to season these addenda lightly with lemon juice and
white pepper ; leave the mould till perfectly set, turn it
out, and serve garnished to taste. These recipes, once
their method of preparation is grasped, are so easy to
prepare that any cook of average intelligence can vary
them indefinitely.

The following will give a good idea of some individual
methods of preparation : Hake Cream and Irish
Same {Creme de Merlus a Vlrlandaise). — Flake some cold
cooked hake, and mix it with horseradish cream. Line a
border mould with aspic jelly, and fill it with the flaked
fish. When set, turn it out, and pile up the centre with
Irish sauce. Horseradish Cream. — Mix well together
two tablespoonfuls each of double or thick cream and
of finely-grated horseradish, and half a pint of white
mayonniase. Irish Sauce. — Mix together a gill each of
rich green mayonnaise, and of stiffly-whipped cream,
with a tablespoonf ul of white tarragon vinegar, a dust of
coralline pepper, and of caster sugar, and, if necessary, a
drop or two of green vegetable colouring. Now stir
into this sufficient yoimg carrots, turnips, and cucumbers
(cut into dice, peas, or slices, and cooked separately) to
make up a gill measure, and pile up the centre of the
mould with these. Salmon or trout may be used for
this dish ; but in this case set the fish in white mayonnaise
and fill up the centre with iced cucumber cream mixed
with dice of cooked lobster. For the Cvcumber Cream,
cook a small cucumber in weak stock, milk, or water, till
tender enough to pulp through a fine sieve, add to this

MOULDS, CREAMS, &c. 55

pur6e a gill of mayonnaise, half a gill of stiffly-whipped
cream, a tablespoonf ul of white tarragon vinegar, a
phch of salt, and a dust of caster sugar ; colour with a
diop or two of vegetable green to make it a faint
cucumber green shade, and stir into it all just at the last
tvo tablespoonfuls of just liquid aspic.

Mousselines de Poisson. — ^These are simply very delicate
forms of fish cream, but are so pretty and acceptable that
ic is well to give them. Dissolve ^z. of best leaf gelatine
h three gills of good clear fish stock, then blend this with
lOoz. of cold cooked fish, previously pounded till smooth
with 2oz. or 3oz. of butter, season with salt, coralline,
and white pepper, a few drops of essence of anchovy, a
little mace, and a little lemon juice, and when nearly cold
stir in a gill of whipped cream. Now pack a plain
charlotte mould with this mixture, place it on ice, or
in the ice cave, and when wanted turn it out carefully,
masking with any chaufroix sauce to taste. If pre-
ferred, when packing it tiny fillets of fish, halved prawns,
bearded oysters, &c., may be mixed with the cream. Sal-
mon thus treated and served with a pale green cucumber
sauce is a particularly pretty dish. So are cold red
mullet in white wine sauce, or whiting or smelts with a
delicate mousseline sauce over the mould. In short,
like most of these dishes, an inteUigent cook can vary
them to any extent by her resources.

Red Mullet Cream {Mousseline de Rougets), — Remove
the heads and gills from lib. of red mullet ; fry a table-
spoonful of very finely-minced shallot or chives in 3oz.
or 4oz. of butter, over a slow fire, till they are dry, then
lay in the mullet, season with coralline pepper, a dust of
mace, and a Uttle powdered thyme and bay leaf, and fry
the fish pretty sharply. When cooked tiurn the whole
out on to a sieve, draining off Ibft W\»\«t wA\v5^^^'»'«»^

56 COLD FISH;

setting this aside on ice to cool. Eub the fish througi
a sieve to get rid of the bones, &c., and when this purfe
is quite cold, blend it with the butter and liquor pre-
viously set aside. Make a pint of rich custard with
three-quarters of a pint of scalded milk and six egg yolks,
adding to this, when sufficiently thickened and near^
cold, Joz. to loz. of best leaf gelatine, previously dissolve!
in a Uttle milk ; when this is thoroughly thick, whisl
the custard, working into it as you do so the poundec
fish, and before it sets add in Ughtly about half a gill ol
stiffly-whipped cream^ pour it all into a mouldy and set
it aside on ice for a couple of hours at least ; then turn out
and serve garnished with chopped aspic.

Whiting Cream (Mousseline de Merlan), — ^This may be
made precisely as above (but of course the fish in this case
must be cleaned), only omitting the herbs, and seasoning
the fish v^ith minced parsley, mace, coralline pepper, and,
if at hand, some minced mushroom. Instead of the
custard, you can use the cold Hollandaise sauce, stiflFened
with gelatine, and serve garnished with watercress and
tomato salad. This cream is particularly delicate if made
with smelts. In any case, a few drops of essence of
anchovy should be added to the sauce.

Wkiting and Oyster Cream (Crdme de Merlan en
Surprise). — ^Prepare a whiting cream according to the
directions given for fish cream in the beginning of this
chapter ; line a plain mould with aspic cream, about one-
third of an inch thick, and fill this with the whiting
cream. With a large spoon scoop out a hollow in the
centre of this mass, and fill up this cavity with bearded
and seasoned oysters, tossed in mayonnaise aspic, cover
this smoothly with some of the fish cream, previously
removed, and put it all aside to set ; then turn it out,
and serve garniabed with watercress and tomato salad.

MOULDS. CREAMS, &c. 57

Lobster, ciab, aralir^. prawns, shiinips, kc^ may aU be
used for the fifllmg, as jou pkase.

LobMer Cnam {Bomard a la C^esle).— Have ready
some sdfflj-wfaqiped cream* dligfatly flaromed with
essence of an^diOTy and coralline pepper, also a lobster
cut up into small dice : season with oil, vinegar, salt,
and pepper, and incorporate a third of this with suffi-
cient a^ie jelly, inevioaaly whipped to a stiff froth, {Hie
this np on a ^as& or ^ver dish, mix the rest of the
lobster with stiffly-whipped cream, and pile it all over
the heap of lobster aspic, as rockily as you can, dust
lightly with coralline pepper and minced tarragon, and
serve garnished with a bouquet of tarragon sprays, and
the lobster feelers inserted at the top.

Souffle Glace, of Fish. — This is a nice and easily-
prepared dish. Have ready some good mayonnaise
of any kind or colour (this may be varied to suit the
fish used), some aspic whipped to a stiff froth, but not
quite set, and any fish handy, freed from skin and
bone and nicely flaked. Have ready a souffle dish
with a two inch band of paper firmly set round it,
and put at the bottom of it a layer of the whipped aspic,
then a layer of the fish seasoned with oil, vinegar, a little
freshly ground black pepper, and salt ; cover this with
a thin coating of mayonnaise, or cucumber, tomato,
or cold Dutch sauce, as you please, and continue these
three layers till the dish is full right up to the top of
the paper, finishing with a rocky layer of the whipped
aspic ; put this aside till firm, then remove the paper
band, fasten a napkin neatly round the dish, and serve
lightly dusted with finely-minced parsley and coralline
pepper. If liked, some cold boiled rice may be stirred
into a rich curry sauce, and used instead of the mayon-
naise.

68 COLD FISH.

Crah SouffiS, — This is delicious if you whisk one and
a half gills of just liquid aspic till white and creamy,
then mix into it three-quarters of a pint of stiffly-whipped
cream, a tablespoonf ul of white tarragon vinegar,
a tiny pinch of salt, and a good dust of coralline pepper ;
now stir into this Jib. of finely-minced crab, and about
a teaspoonful of finely-minced parsley, and chives,
chervil, or tarragon (according to what you have), and
fill up a papered souffle mould (the paper should rise
Ij inches to 2 inches above the case) with this mixture ;
stand it on ice, or in the ice cave, for an hour or so, then
remove the paper, and serve with minced parsley and
a tiny rose of stiffly-whipped cream, flavoured with
a drop or two of essence of anchovy and tarragon
vinegar, and a dust of coralline pepper.

Curry SouffiS {Souffle de Poisson a VIndienne). —
Peel, slice, and fry four onions with a pinch of finely
minced bayleaf and thyme in 2oz. of butter for twelve
to fifteen minutes ; then fry in the same pan a tea-
spoonful of good curry powder for a minute or so,
after which add two raw ripe tomatoes, a good dust
of coralline pepper, a dessertspoonful of tamarind, a
few drops of lemon juice, a tablespoonful of grated
cocoanut, six boned and washed anchovies, and a pint of
good fish stock. Simmer this till tender, then dissolve
in it loz. of best leaf gelatine, tammy and sieve it, and,
when nearly cold, stir in to it ^Ib. of the fish, a spoonful
or two of roughly chopped hard-boiled eggs, and two
tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have ready some
small souffle cases duly papered with white paper, and
fill these with the curry mixture. Set them in a cold
place or on ice for about an hour, then remove the paper
bands, force out a tiny rose of anchovy cream on each,
smd serve garnished, if liked, with little heaps of cold

MOULDS, CREAMS, &c. 59

boiled rice. This can manifestly be prepared with
any cold cooked fish, but is specially good with salt
fish, if duly soaked. For the Anchovy Cream pound
six well-washed and boned anchovies with the yolk
of a hard-boiled egg, a tablespoonful of salad oil, and
a dust of coralline pepper ; when this is quite smooth
add half a gill of liquid aspic jelly, and sieve it all, mixing
it then with a gill of stiffly-whipped cream, and leave
it on ice till wanted. This is a particularly good garnish
for many kinds of fish.

Salmon Souffle, — Pound 8oz. or lOoz. of cold cooked
salmon with the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs, and a
few drops of lemon juice, seasoning it with white pepper,
salt, and a few drops of essence of anchovy ; moisten
this with a gill of good fish stock in which you have
previously dissolved ioz. of leaf gelatine, then sieve
it all, and mix it quickly with half a pint of stiffly-whipped
cream, flavoured with essence of anchovy and tinted
faintly with a drop or two of liquid carmine. Pack
it all in a papered souffle dish, and put it aside till set.
If you omit the gelatine and put the mixtuj'e into little
papered souffl6 cases, they may be frozen or frappes^
and make most delicious little iced souffle.

Sole Ristori, — Line a plain or charbtte mould with
jelly, decorating this with truffle, hard-boiled egg white,
and picked sprays of chervil. Set this garnish with
a little more jelly, then arrange round the sides and
bottom fillets of sole (previously cooked in white wine —
an vin Uanc — and stamped out into even, heart or
kite shapes), setting these also with more aspic, and
then fill up the centre with a lobster cream (prepared
as described in the beginning of this chapter), cover
with jelly, and leave till set. Have ready either some
small tomatoes (seeded), or some artichoke bottoms,

60 COLD FISH.

seasoning either with oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and
salt, and pile up on these the trimmings of the sole,
and some lobster, with a few fillets of washed and boned
anchovy tossed in some mayonnaise, strew these with
minced olives, and arrange round the mould alternately
with little heaps of chopped aspic.

The sole fillets should when cooked be pressed between
two plates till quite cold.

Carp Mould (Pain de Carpe a VAlenQon.) — Braise
a medium-sized carp in some good strong fish stock,
or rich court-bouillon, on a bed of sliced soup vegeta-
bles, till perfectly cooked, then remove all skin and
bones, and pound the flesh with two anchovies boned
and filletted, and two or three truffles if at hand (these
are not indispensable), moistening this as you pound
it with a gill or so of velout^ sauce, to which you have
added the liquor from the fish. Kub this all through
a sieve, add to it one and a half gills of savoury or aspic
(fish) jelly as you please, and sufficient good tarragon
vinegar to flavour it to taste. Meantime, prepare a
mac6doine of pickled gherkins and button mushrooms,
crayfish tails (prawns or shrimps), cut into dice, and some
bearded and blanched oysters, mixing all these ingredients
well together, and tossing them in some mayonnaise
aspic, line a mould with good clear jelly, and when
this is fairly set put in a quarter of the fish pur6e,
previously stirred over ice till perfectly smooth, smooth
it^over, and cover with a layer of the mac6doine, repeat-
ing these two layers till the mould is full, and put it away
to set. When wanted dip the mould in hot water, turn
out the mould, and serve garnished with chopped jelly
and little biscuit-crisp croutons thickly spread with green,
Gascony, or anchovy butter to taste. This dish, which
is excellent, is very good if made with bream, hake, &c.

Eel, T iTTKLll 'T. — -aIiL iCi:. . -i-'- .fj'-*s ill .isi- fcif^

atutf it a* 5or ^*i .aAajinrLr. ."^ ■.- :- i -j«:»ii ..--'.i-, K*ii^
it iatio ahape. ^ad it ~a& -': l:t. . :-:i jr^^^^u i^iJ^. Ekr-t.ii
it into a drcie. ami piai:^ .: r. & sfcUL-sijifta .u<».. '*:a K/iU
it comfortabiT. aa abed i£ ^jUij ^i^»:'".j*Jifc>* niUi .ii^/.i^a
good fish, sisck la -Ts^er .n. 'Vavu .-^A/.a.-ru r..%:.\i w
well, and sec it oa a r«v«r*ii >ie«« ,»r y»*;i v av,4iu,
fixing a bowl or basia in :he riii^ rjo i^e^* '•'- ^'^ 't^^k'o ;
when it is perfectly cold, u'JH.»aok and iritii ii. aiul ;»Ikv
it evenly, but diagonally, brii:iihiug eav'h ot Uuv^^o ^tu-it^
over with savoury jelly. Have rt?ad> lluoo \\\\i\\\
border moulds, each one to two iuolui:i ituiallui- iliau
the other, and line these with jt^lly ; dip Htimu (iiuyluli
tails, stoned olives, sliced ^liorkiiiH, (uilil tiimut jimi.*,
and truffles (or pickled waltuii;, cut Ut iiiiilrli, in )H.»t
liquid aspic, and me th<:*i<'. Ut f/uiniQli flui Mk^n n\ H<#*
moulds, arranginir Hit t-jAinua \ttfX\\\i, Hut\ n^uo^^
them firmly »ith ^ \i\^:%h HA\iu. HI/ W>,a/, n,iy h
set fill up iLft ;.v,.uC< «,\;, ;U/Ay: ^/„/; ^„.^ «>™^^',
and bo»c i.u'iU'/^* ;«..%•-< </, .v: % , ^v <'^ ^* /.—r.:
in iDaT«xJuuwt »«»>»<i •■ .-..si-. .,<*-.••.*>*. i / ^-j.. ..^.
the ::Lr,>ui:it aui «»i vu* v- .v> •/ -w, ,y..n.. ,«..../,,
tbfi jaliftt iii*»» \t -Pi --vj'"! '-iri. .I.S.J / -^ .1 .„
boidh^ "usR II >rtA»«i^)#. -ii. '"^.'I'^r* .-.,:- .. .,•
oin ir fe liw. •!»/' »i>^^ .'^'ii '1 5 • •

OU: i, Itltp' ii^ftJi .- \..^r,r^ 1 .->,.* . '. . ., f

ift&%*. inT lu» ti'.,,^".^ ..-. .•- ,1 • » .

lUOJlil dk .ift.-r- *..l .r. . , • . r _,

jurliier' .tt .-.vr.#i ■>-»-». . ■ • . » ■• ■. . •

62 COLD FISH.

the side of the mould ; force out a little heap of chopped
jelly on the top, fixing this in place with a silver skewer
(if available, or use a new steel one), on which you
may, if you like, thread an unshelled prawn and a
truffle, then arrange round it the rest of the eel slices,
fixing them as before with the chopped aspic, and
serve. For the verUpri mayonnaise aspic mix three large
tablespoonfuls of green or vert-pr6 mayonnaise with
half a pint of just liquid aspic, and use when setting.

Chaufroix of Lobster or Salmon, — Slice the bodies or
tails of two lobsters neatly and diagonally (or flake a nice
piece of cold cooked salmon in the same way), marinade
them for two or three hours in oil, vinegar, &c., then
mask each thickly and smoothly with mayonnaise aspic.
Meanwhile, line a border mould with jelly, and, when this
is firm, lay in little heaps of the minced trimmings of the
lobster, and of thinly-sliced gherkins, arranging round
these strips of white of egg as a garnish ; then pour
in a layer of jelly, and repeat these two layers till the
mould is full. Put it aside to set. When wanted, dip
the mould in hot water and turn out the jelly sharply.
Arrange the slices of lobster, &c., on the top of the mould
in a circle, fixing them with chopped aspic, by means of a
bag and plain pipe, and fill up the centre with a cold
macMoine of cooked vegetables tossed in a French
salad dressing. The contents of a tin of vegetable
mac6doine, if nicely drained, answers capitally for this
dish. Any fish may be served thus, varying the

Salmon Timbale (Timbale de Saumon d la Romaine), —

Line a timbale mould with jelly, then put in a layer of

half lobster, half tomato sauce, mixed, and stififened with

gelatine ; now put in a thick layer of cold salmon flaked

finely and mixed with minced anchovies, mayonnaise

MOULDS, CREAMS, Ac. «3

aspic, and two or three spoonfuls of whipped cream.
Cover this with a layer of the lohster and tomato sauce,
and leave till set, when you turn it out and serve gar-
nished with chopped aspic, or halved cabhage lettuces.

Lobster Cream^ Iced (Mousse de Homard Glacee). —
Split the shell of a freshly-cooked lobster, and mince it
very fine ; stir this mince over the fire in a gill of b^
chamel sauce, then add to this a gill of jelly in which you
have previously dissolved two leaves or so of best leaf
gelatine, and stir it all together until well blended, and the
gelatine perfectly dissolved, without, however, letting it
boil ; season this to taste, and pour it all into a basin to cool ;
whisk one and a half gills of double cream till stiff, mix it
lightly and quickly with a gill of tomato mayonnaise, and
stir this gently into the mixture in the basin. Have ready
a properly-papered souffle mould, and fill it with the
mixture, then set it in a charged ice cave, and leave it till
frozen firm ; when you lift it out, remove the paper band,
sprinkle the top with finely-minced parsley and coralline
pepper, and serve. This should be quite firm and icy
cold, but not absolutely frozen hard. Salmon may be
prepared in the same way.

Timbale de Poisson en Aspic. — Cook some nice fillets
of any white fish en paupiettes, and leave these till
perfectly cold, pressing them lightly between two plates
with a light weight on top ; when set, slice these neatly
into little rounds, line a plain charlotte mould with
aspic, then decorate with the little rounds of fish, adding
some coralline pepper and a little minced parsley,
fixing this with another layer of jelly. When this is
firm, but not quite hard, fill up the centre with minced
prawns, shrimps, or lobster, either tossed in a French
salad dressing, or in mayonnaise, as you please. Serve
garnished with any salad to taste. T\»& Sa ^ :^^^ ^-^ns^

64, COLD FISH.

and by no means expensive dish, as fillets of plaice
or lemon sole answer quite as well as more expensive
fish.

Fish, Chartreuse of, — Fillet a good sole, &c., and cook
the fillets in a well buttered baking tin, with lemon juice,
salt, and pepper, imder a buttered paper, for six to eight
minutes; then take up, and place them between two
plates, lightly weighted, to press till cold. Now stamp
them out with a round cutter, garnishing half with
lobster coral or coralline pepper, and the other half with
minced parsley and sieved hard-boiled egg, setting this
with a drop or two of just liquid aspic. Line a plain
charlotte mould with aspic, and arrange the rounds of
sole all over the sides and top, adding tiny bunches of
picked chervil, and a dust of coralline pepper, if liked,
between the garnish, setting this with more aspic jelly.
Now mince the remains of the fish, and mix it with about
a cupful of picked and minced shrimps or lobster, four
(canned and well rinsed) artichoke bottoms, and two
peeled tomatoes, cut into small dice, and, lastly, twelve
small raw oysters ; season to taste with coralline pepper
and salt, &c., and mix it all with half a pint of aspic jelly
and half a gill of good mayonnaise, stirring it well
together over ice till it is just beginning to set, when it
ijiust be poured into the mould, and left on ice or in a
cool place till firm, when it should be turned out and
served garnished with chopped aspic, and a tomato and
watercress (or any other) salad to taste. It is not
necessary to use sole for this dish, as neat httle fillets
of whiting, &c., may be used in the same way ; only
remember in that case to point each row of fillets
the opposite iway. This is a most economical dish,
as any scraps of fish, sauce, &c., may be used in its
composition.

MOULDS, CREAMS, &c. 65

Eel Chartreuse. — Kill and clean carefully a 2lb. eel,
removing the bones ; rub the inside well with pepper,
salt, and minced parsley, and tie the fish up in a piece of
muslin. Put it in a pan with the head and bones, with
a bouquet garni, two slices of onion, a slice of lemon cut
straight through pith and peel, with sufficient water
to cover this all well ; bring it gently to the boil, and
simmer till done. It will take from thirty to forty-five
minutes, according to the thickness of the eel. As soon
as it is cooked lift out the latter, and remove the muslin.
Skin the fish neatly, then set it aside. Meanwhile boil
up the liquor sharply to reduce it, strain it, and add to it
a pint of rather stiff aspic (2oz. of gelatine to the quart) ;
whisk lightly together the white and broken shell of an
egg, and mix this with the stock, aspic, &c., bring it all
to the boil, stirring it all the time (stopping just before
it actually boils up), then draw the pan to the side,
and let it stand for eight or ten minutes, after which
you strain it through a jelly bag. Now line a plain
mould with this jelly, just as it is setting decorating the
sides and base of the mould with sliced hard-boile I
egg and picked shrimps ; then fill up the mould with
alternate layers of eel, and shrimps, and hard-boiled
egg, setting each layer with a little jelly, and finishing
with the jelly, being careful to have each layer well set
(though not absolutely hard) before adding the next.
Turn out when firm, and serve garnished with seasoned
watercress and any nice cold sauce to taste, or serve
plain.

Oyster Blancmange. — Make a blancmange in the
usual way, only use salt and the. oyster hquor instead
of sugar. Decorate a mould with caviar and lobster
coral and pour in some of the savoury blancmange,
then add a layer of fresh oysters spriivkkd ^'^Js^ ^^^isi^

66 COLD FISH.

caviar and lemon juice, and repeat these layers till
the mould is filled, the blancmange being the last.
Leave it on ice till set, then turn it out, and serve gar-
nished with chopped aspic, caviar, and prawns if at
hand. (Oysters with mousseline sauce are equally good
this way.)

Truites en Turban aux Concombres, — Fillet neatly
some small trout, removing the skin and bones, but
keeping the fillets as whole as possible, dust half of them
with parsley, and half with lobster coral or coralline
pepper ; line a plain Charlotte mould with aspic, and fix
the trout fillets all round, setting them with a Uttle more
jelly, as if they were Savoy biscuits for a Charlotte Busse.
Cover this with a rich lobster farce pretty thickly,
set it with more aspic, and fill up the centre with
cucumber sliced or cut into balls, and tossed in mayon-
naise aspic. The lobster farce is really chopped finely,
seasoned to taste with coralline pepper, minced parsley,
and chives if liked, and lightly mixed with a little
mayonnaise, to which you add sufficient aspic jelly
to stiffen it.

Pike Cheese {Pain de Brocket). — Remove the fillets
from a fair-sized pike, and free them from skin and
bone, then pound this flesh in the mortar with half
the quantity of butter (if an ounce of two of this is
crayfish or lobster butter, all the better), seasoning
it, as you pound, with white and red pepper, salt, and
a few drops of essence of anchovy ; then rub it all through
a fine sieve into a basin, and stir the pur6e together
for a few minutes. Now mix in tlie stiffly-whipped
white of an egg, twice the quantity of stiffly-whipped
cream, and joz. to loz. of leaf gelatine dissolved in a
little milk. Fill a buttered mould or basin with this
farce, and steam or poach it under a buttered paper,

MOULDS, CREAMS, &c. 67

and when cooked, set it aside till cold, when you turn
it out, and serve masked with any nice chaufroix sauce
to taste ; with a garnish of seasoned watercress, tomato,
or other salading, quartered hard-boiled eggs, crayfish
tails, lobster, &c., according to the colour of the masking
sauce. Of course truffles may be added to the farce, and
prawns, caviar, &c.,used in the garnish, but they are
not indispensable. Hake, halibut, sturgeon, &c., are
all good served by this recipe.

¥ 'I

CHAPTER V.

SMALL ENTE^ES, &c.

Of small fish entries there is a very large choice, though
as a matter of fact one seldom sees them save in the
case of oyster or lobster patties, or occasionally, lobster
or salmon cutlets. Yet small dishes of fish may be
made out of the veriest scraps, and still be both tempting
and satisfactory. For instance, say you have a little
cod left over from last night's dinner, with perhaps
a scant ladleful of the sauce that accompanied it to
table ; flake the fish as small as possible, free from skin
and bone, stir a little, rather thick, mayonnaise into
the sauce, and put a layer of this at the bottom of some
little cases, either china or paper ; then pile the flaked
cod on this, dusting it lightly with freshly-ground
black pepper, and a very little lemon juice, and when
it is a neat dome shape, mask it with mayonnaise sauce,
crowning this with either a fillet of anchovy or a little
tuft of scraped horseradish. If you have such things
handy, artichoke bottoms well drained and seasoned
with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, will replace the
cases advantageously. Or Su6doise sauce may be used
instead of the oyster and mayonnaise sauce, or tomato
sauce is also good.
Soles and other delicate fish are equally good, cut

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 69

up small and treated as above ; or again small dariole
moulds may be lined with aspic, and filled up with a
mince of cold fish mixed with aspic jelly whipped to a
fijoth, or stiffly-whisked cream, or any nice sauce to
taste, a little just liquid aspic being then poured over
it all, and the moulds put away till quite set, when
they may be turned out, and served garnished with
seasoned watercress, mustard and cress, or chopped
aspic, as you please. Tomatoes, seeded and deprived
of their extra moisture by pressing the inside with
the bowl of a silver spoon, seasoning the inside with
oil, flavoured vinegar, freshly-ground black pepper,
and salt, may also be filled up with flaked seasoned fish,
and fresh or cooked salad tossed in mayonnaise. Aspic
(as will be seen in the final chapter) is anything but an
expensive luxury, and is a great help to economy, as
by its help all sorts of odds and ends may be utilised.
For instance, for the tomatoes described above, in
winter take any cooked vegetables, such as celeriac,
Brussels sprouts, carrot, beetroot, &c., cut into dice,
with any scraps of flaked fish, fresh or salt (flaked bloater,
kipper. Finnan haddie, &c., answer excellently), and
mix them lightly with just liquid aspic jelly; pile
this up in a dome shape in the tomatoes, crowning
the apex with a stuffed olive or an anchovy fillet, and
serve when set. ♦

Tiny souffles glacis again are very easy to make.
Paper some small paper or china souffl6 cases with an
inch and a half wide band of paper, and lay a spoonful
of flaked or minced fish in each, seasoning this with
oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, then cover with a layer
of sauce to taste, stiffening this with aspic, then another
layer of fish, more sauce, and so on imtil the case is full,
and pile on each lightly a teaapootilvii o\ ^J«^ ^>&

70 COLD FISH.

whipped to a stiff froth. The sauce used for this is
easily prepared by adding half a gill (four good table-
spoonfuls) of any sauce to taste to one-third of a pint
of aspic jelly, mixing them well together, and adding
any further seasoning or flavouring to taste as you
mix. A rich form of this sauce, usually called a *' mous-
seline," is made by blending together equal quantities
of sauce, aspic, and cream, the two last being whisked
to a stiff froth.

Again, small cold fish, whether fried in egg and bread-
crumbs, or plainly boiled, make a neat little dish as
filets de poisson en aspicy thus : Eemove the heads
and tails from some cold fried smelts (or small fillets
of sole may be used in the same way), pile them up
neatly on a dish, garnish round with any salading
to taste, and pour over them either tomato cream or
tomato mayonnaise, and serve. If it is boiled fish
you have, trim them into neat fillets, and mask them
with a mayonnaise aspic or jellynstiffened sauce to taste,
and when this is firm, brush them over lightly with
just liquid jelly to glaze it, dish them neatly in a circle
when set, and fill up the centre with seasoned water-
cress, small cress, &c., to taste.

The following recipes will give a good idea of the
variety of such dishes : Filets de Saumon en Chaufroix
Alexandra. — Cut some cold salmon into neat fillets
or slices, and mask them with aspic or savoury jeUy.
When this is set, dish these in a circle alternately with
fleurons of anchovy or cheese pastry cut to match the
fish, garnish with fresh salad, and serve with a green
mousseline sauce in the centre (i.e., equal parts of
green mayonnaise, whipped cream, and aspic jelly).

Cotelettes de Saumon aux Tomates, — Prepare some
salmon cutlets with a good saYmon iQi^s^OL^^t, egg

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 71

and crumb them, and fry in hot fat till of a delicate
golden brown, drain them well on blotting paper, and
leave them till perfectly cold. Meanwhile, mix together
a gill of richly-coloured tomato sauce and half a pint
of aspic jelly in which you have previously dissolved
five or six sheets of best leaf gelatine, and pour it on
to a very clean tin or large dish, in a layer nearly half an
inch thick, and leave till set. When firm, cut out
shapes to match the fish cutlets, and dish the two
alternately, in a circle, filling the centre either with
chopped aspic or with the following : Cut Jib. of potatoes
with a cutter into little pea shapes, put these on in
cold water, bring this to the boil, then strain off the
potato peas, rinse them in cold water, and cook them
in boiling salted water till tender, being careful that
they do not break or get mashed. When cooked drain
them off, and leave till cold, when you toss them lightly
in two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, strew them
with minced tarragon and chervil, and pile it all in
the centre of the salmon cutlets.

Petits Pains de Saumon a la Russe. — Prepare a nice
forcemeat of salmon, and poach it in little plain dariole
moulds. Turn out when cold, mask each with mayon-
naise aspic, and, when set, dish with a good spoonful
of horseradish or Su^doise sauce (as you please) on the
top of each, and garnish to taste with rasped horse-
radish, seasoned watercress, or chopped aspic.

Petits Aspics de Sole aux Anchois, — Fillet two soles,
bat them out, and trim them to the size desired ; then
spread one side with a d'uxelle mixture (minced parsley,
chives, and mushrooms, seasoned, and tossed in butter),
roll up each fillet, and fasten it into shape with a band
of buttered paper. Bake these rolled fillets in a well-
buttered baking tin, seasoned \j\l\v a. l^^ ^\q^'s> ^\\b\siRi^

72 COLD FISH.

juice, wine, and coralline pepper, under a buttered paper.
When ready, lift them out and leave till cold. Now
line some little bombe or plain dariole moulds with jelly,
garnishing the sides with a dust of coralline pepper and
tiny sprays of chervil (this is not indispensable though
pretty), set these with a little more jelly ; then place a
fillet in each mould (after removing the buttered paper
and trimming them), fill up the latter with jelly, and
put aside to set. When dished, force a little rose of
anchovy cream out on each, and serve garnished to
taste. For the anchovy cream, wash and bone three or
four anchovies, or use the same amount of anchovy
paste, and pound it up with a dessertspoonful of good
oil, a dust of coralline pepper, and a drop of carmine ;
then work in two tablespoonfuls of just liquid jelly,
finally mixing it with half a gill of very stiffly-whipped
cream. Use icy-cold.

Darioles de Poisson a la Crdme, — Mince roughly any
remains of cold fish, of one or several kinds as most
convenient, season it lightly with oil and vinegar and a
dust of coralline pepper ; stand on ice till wanted. Now
line some little bombe or plain dariole moulds with
aspic cream (mix together half a pint liquid aspic jelly,
a gill of thick, fresh cream, and a dessertspoonful of
tarragon vinegar, and use when cooling), this lining
should be a quarter of an inch thick. When this is set,
toss the minced fish, with minced fillets of anchovy,
capers, and olives, in some mayonnaise, and fill the
moulds with this, covering them with more of the aspic
cream, and serve with, or without, a tomato salad. A
particularly dainty dish may be made in this way,
called Petites crimes d'huitres au caviar. For this
prepare the aspic cream as before, only use strained
oyster liquor instead of tarragoiv*, chop lightly some

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 73

bearded oysters, and mix them and little heaps of caviar
with white mayonnaise, add a dust of coralline pepper
and a few drops of lemon juice. Fill the moulds as
before, and serve with crisp shred celery tossed in
mayonnaise, to which some cooks add peeled, chopped
walnuts. This dish is not of the " elegant economy "
order, I admit, but is bad to beat as a pretty entr6e for a
smart dinner or a ball supper.

Timhallettes de sole a la Cardinale. — Fillet as many
soles as you need, and halve each fillet, season each
lightly with salt and white pepper, and roll each round
a piece of carrot, fastening it into shape with a buttered
paper. Bake ten to twelve minutes in a well-buttered
baking dish, seasoning the fillets with pepper, salt,
lemon juice, and if liked, a few drops of wine, and cover-
ing them with a buttered paper. When cooked lift them
out and leave till cold. Prepare half a pint of rich
lobster sauce, and divide it in half ; to one half add five or
six sheets of best leaf gelatine to stifiFen it nicely, and
with this fill the fish fillets when cold and the buttered
paper and the carrots have been removed, and let them
stand till set. Meanwhile, to the other gill of lobster
sauce add a good dust of coralline pepper, a gill of stiffly-
whipped cream, two tablespoonfuls of thick mayon-
naise, five or six boned and washed anchovies sieved,
with a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and two
tablespoonfuls of minced lobster (failing this use prawns
or shrimps), with a drop or two of carmine to bring the
colour to a pretty soft pink. Have the fillets set in aspic
jelly in Httle plain moulds, then turn these out and
arrange in a circle, filling up the centre with the lobster
sauce. K Hked, a jelly border improves this dish
wonderfully. For this pour jelly into a pkiin border
mould to the depth oi an mc\i ot ^^ \»\is:tL N^ ^^^^

74 COLD FISH.

when set, dish the fish on it, and pile the sauce up in
the centre.

Little Salmon Souffles {cold), — These are made thus : —
Pound 8oz. or so of cold cooked salmon, very smoothly,
with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, a few drops of
lemon juice, a drop or two of essence of anchovy, with
salt and white and coralline pepper to taste ; moisten this
all with a gill of stock in which you have dissolved Joz.
of gelatine, sieve it all, then stir into it lightly half a
pint of stiffly-whipped cream, flavoured with anchovy
essence and coralline pepper, and, if necessary, coloured
with a drop or so of carmine to bring it all to a delicate
pink. Have ready some little paper souffle cases, fill
them with the mixture, and set them in the ice cave
for an hour or so. These can be served without icing,
if instead of Joz. gelatine you dissolve nearly Joz. in the
stock. Eemove the paper before serving. Any nice
fish may be served thus, especially if essence of anchovy
be added to the mixture.

Iced Salmon Souffle^ — Mince finely lib. cold cooked
salmon, and mix it with a pint of stiffly-whisked aspic
(whisked while cooling), then stir in lightly half a pint
whipped cream ; season with a teaspoonful of French
and English mustard (mixed), a dust of salt and of
coralline pepper, and a full tablespoonful of Worcester
sauce ; add if necessary a drop or two of carmine to
make it a delicate pink, and a teaspoonful of anchovy
essence. Put this into a bag with a large plain pipe,
fill some little paper souffle cases with it, and leave these
in the charged ice cave till set. When required, remove
the paper, press out on each a rose of stiffly-whipped
cream, seasoned with coralline pepper and raw minced
parsley, and dish with half a plover's egg between each
h'ttJe case, or, failing this, some chopped aspic.

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 75

Iced and Devilled Lobster Souffles. — Dissolve a tea-
spoonful of Lemco and Joz. of best leaf gelatine in a pint
of hot, rich espagnole sauce ; add to this a full wineglass-
ful of sherry, two tablespoonfuls of Worcester sauce, a
teaspoonful of French mustard, and a good dust of
cayenne. Pound the flesh of a cooked and minced
lobster with six anchovies and a little thick cream ;
mix it with the previous ingredients, and rub it aU
through a fine sieve. When cool, mix in lightly a gill
of very stiffly-whisked cream. Paper some small souffle
cases and lay in some pieces of lobster seasoned with
cayenne pepper, chilli vinegar, oil, and a Httle Worcester
sauce (or chutney, if liked) ; now fill up with the lobster
mixture by means of a bag and pipe, and place these
little souffle in the charged ice cave for at least an hour ;
then serve dusted with finely-minced parsley. This is
very good made of tinned or canned lobster.

Petites Mousses de Homard. — Dissolve two or three
sheets of best leaf gelatine in a gill of aspic jelly, and stir
it into a gill of creamy bechamel, with the finely-minced
flesh of a lobster, and leave it to cool. Whip one and a
half gills of cream to a stiff froth, then mix it well with
a gill of tomato mayonnaise, and, lastly, stir this all
gently into the lobster, aspic, &c. Have ready some
little paper souffle cases, fill them with the mixture,
and stand these in the charged ice cave for an hour or so.
To serve, remove the papers, and dust Hghtly with
minced tarragon and coralline pepper.

Trout en Turban, — Have ready some cold cooked
fillets of trout, and dust half with lobster coral and half
with minced parsley ; fix these with aspic, or fish jelly,
round a jelly-lined Charlotte mould, as if they were
Savoy biscuits ; then cover them quickly inside with a
cold farce of minced lobster, axii ^ \r^ Ni^as. oks^^s^ ^^is^

76 GOLD FISH.

sliced and seasoned cucumber tossed in some rich mayon-
naise ; cover this all with jelly, and leave it till set,
when it is turned out, and serve garnished with chopped
jelly, or seasoned watercress to taste. Any fish fillets
may be served thus, varying the farce and the centre.

Filleted Sole is also good cold. Trim the fillets neatly,
season them with a little salt and white pepper, put
them in a well-buttered baking dish with a little lemon
juice, covered with buttered paper, and cook in the
oven for eight to ten minutes ; then lift them out,
lay them on a plate, turn another over them, weight
this lightly, and leave till perfectly cold. They can
then be cut to any shape liked, and masked with any
sauce to taste. For instance, if coated with gelatined
tomato sauce and served round a watercress salad,
with a garnish of chopped parsley, anchovy, and sieved
hard-boiled Qggy they are called Filets de Sole, Bokim-
ienne; if previous to cooking they are rolled round
a piece of potato or carrot cut in the shape of a cork,
and tied up in a strip of buttered paper, cooked, and freed
when cold from the potato and the paper, then masked
with Dutch sauce (stiffened with a little gelatine),
filled up when this is set with a rich lobster sauce, and
served garnished with chopped aspic, tarragon, and
chervil, they are known as Filets de Sole en Chaufroixy
Dauphine. Or the fillets may be rolled up, fixed into
shape with a band of buttered paper, and either cooked
in the oven with a little white wine and a buttered paper
over them, or gently simmered till done in milk and
fish stock, then left till cold, when they are neatly
trimmed. Now line a plain Charlotte mould with
aspic jelly, and arrange the little rolls of sole all round
this, slicing one round to decorate the bottom (which
wi7/ be the top) of the mould ; put a praYfii,or two atoned

oiirss faroec ^tmL ai- BDcncrry :fifei. bbtwbbl mudi
littk ToL AiiL |ioir ir BnfccsEn: j^ JiquiL jfipic id
BBT it : ^^«**^ ffi m»^'iu. Tfle sanee jnvcL B^cmr. and fierce
BE Tiwbai^ de Soiei^ ah riv. busmz Tor tfie aanee prepare
abonT tia-Vf h pin: o: imicL aauee. making ti pretty
thin- and stir inu tiiir twc i^ii£G;ioaiin2i> of iinehF-
miiioed crai ^o: ooiirst any fihftHfw'r may ht used > and
^oz. of ^«ST i^ ijeiamH;. dkBoh^ it one or twc* ^abie-
Bpoonfnb o! creaiL or oienF milk, and use h ae^ h is
JUST BCtiiag. Tor tiiit disL tiie Imtdi aaoee sbouid lie
loade of iigiiT JrencL Trin^ onh .

Whiting. Bniall iiaddocks. smal] dories, or kmon
goies may all be iiliei«d il thit Tvay. and ^tch £UetB of
guruet are uot u- l^t despssed imder tiiBse maakin^.
Tbey caii all be cooktjc ii. tiie fiame -way as the «oie
filiete, and are. iatcii and aLLiinproved by beiii^ marinaded
previously for an hour or two in oil, Tinegar, spice,
pepper, and salt.

Cold Curried Fi^i in CcLaes. — Tar lib. feh freed
from skin and bone, take ^oz. of butter, one onion^
one tabkspoonf ul of curry powder, one tablespoonful of
minoed appk, one heaped dsssertspoonful of flour, one
tablespoonful of fresh or dessicated cocoanut. one ^1
vhite stock, half a pint of milk, half a gill of cream, the
juioe of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and caster sugar. Fry
the peeled and finely-minoBd onion in the buttser uA
tender, but not coloured ; now stir in the curry, and
fry it for a minute, then the flour and cocoanut, stirring
it all well as it cooks, and lastly the minced apple, and
moisten tlm> aD gradually with the stock and milk;
stir it all till it hoik, seaaon to taste, and then la>- in
the flaked fish and simmer it gently till it is all tender
and well blended ; now turn it out, and when <^nit^e
oM add the cream, kc I>ish m x\scsc^«c <^ <5^^x^s5^

78 COLD FISH.

garnished with anchovy fillets, shrimps, picked veget-
ables, &c., to taste.

Clam Cocktail. — Place twelve opened clams in a
basin with their liquor, and when this has settled well,
pour it off carefully into another bowl, free from all
shell and sediment, and set this basin on iqe. Mean-
while, add to the clam liquor enough mushroom or
tomato catsup to fill four claret glasses altogether,
with a small teaspoonful of finely-grated horseradish,
three or four drops of Tabasco, a tablespoonful of vinegar
(plain or flavoured) or lemon juice, and the iced clams.
Mix lightly and serve very cold. Oyster cocktail may
also be made in the same way, only omitting the horse-
radish, and using one part Worcester sauce to two
parts of catsup.

Oyster Cocktail, — Choose very small oysters, drain
off and strain their liquor, rinsing them well in this to
free them from any bits of shell. Have ready the follow-
ing sauce : Mix together two tablespoonfuls each of
lemon juice and tomato catsup, a teaspoonful of Wor-
cester sauce, ten drops of Tabasco, and a dust of salt.
(This will make sauce enough for six persons.) The
oysters should have stood on ice till the sauce is ready,
then when quite cold (but not frozen), put from four
to six into each glass and pour over these some spoonfuls
of the dressing and serve. These cocktails are much
liked in America for lunch, or supper parties, and are
also sometimes used amongst the hors d'oeuvre, or
zakouska, as the Russians term this service. To this
class belongs the well-known " prairie oyster," said
to have been invented by a plainsman of the Wild
West for the benefit of a sick comrade, who believed
only an oyster would enable him to shake off the fever
tAat was killing him. This "oyster" is prepared by

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 79

putting a teaspoonful of good vinegar, or Worcester
sauce, at the bottom of a wineglass, and slipping into
this very carefully the unbroken yolk of a raw egg^
dusting this with salt and a little freshly-ground black
pepper. It must be added that this may be varied
to taste, some persons adding a drop or two of Tabasco
or a little cayenne to the vinegar, whilst others, horresco
referens ! sophisticate this temperance '* pick-me-up "
by using old rye whisky, instead of vinegar or sauce ;
but this is not approved by connoisseurs.

Poisson a V Amphytrion. — Flake up any cold fish
(the more delicate the better, cold John Dorey is especi-
ally good thus) rather small, then toss it carefully in
verte or ravigotte mayonnaise till every flake is nicely
covered, and pile it up on a glass dish ; set this on ice
for at least two hours before it is wanted, then serve
garnished with chopped aspic and tomato or cucumber
salad. With the latter it is prettier to mix the fish
with tomato mayonnaise.

Fish Sandwiches. — Spread some Hovis or sandwich
bread with either egg, Gascony, or maitre d 'hotel butter,
and lay on these slices either minced or flaked cold fish,
seasoned with salt and white pepper ; spread an equal
number of slices of bread with a stiff mayonnaise, or
mayonnaise aspic, lay very thinly sliced cucumber
or tomato on this, press the two sets of slices together
lightly, trim them into shape, and serve garnished
with cress of any kind. These may be prepared some-
time beforehand if when ready they are packed one
on the other, covered with lettuce leaves — the outer
ones — and then with a damp, but not wet, napkin.
But of course, when possible, they are best made fresh.

Curried. — Have ready some good fiaK

cream of any kind (or pouTided «kTv^^^«fiR>w'^\^^^^\ssJixfc^

80 COLD FISH.

to a paste with a little thick or whipped and seasoned
cream) ; then turn out a tin of curried prawns and
pound this also with cream or butter, and the hard-
boiled yolks of two egj7H ; run a thin layer of aspic jelly
into a shallow tin (the lid of a biscuit tin answers admir-
ably), and, when set, spread this with the fish farce»
and next with the curried mixture ; run more aspic over
this, and leave it till set and firm ; then, with a sharp
knife dipped in hot water, you cut it into squares,
fingers, or triangles as you prefer, and dish on a bed
of chopped aspic with little heaps of cold boiled rice,
These are also very nice if placed, sandwich-fashion,
between two slices of buttered Hovis bread. These
sandwiches are also things that may be varied to taste,
and are invariably appreciated. For instance, cold,
cooked flaked salmon, fresh or smoked, niay be laid
between slices of bread spread with iced cucumber
sauce stiffened with a sheet of two of gelatine ; whilst
cold herring, fresh or kippered; washed and boned
sardines ; cold mackerel fillets, d:c., are all good with
bread spread either with Gascony butter or rather
stiff tomato mayonnaise.

Iced Curry in Cases,— Huh a basin once or twice with
fresh-cut garlic, then put into it half a pint of mayon*
naise or tartare sauce, with a teaspoonful of finely-
minced chives (or, failing this, a shallot), a dessertspoon -
ful of good curry powder, a little dry mustard, a pinch
of cayenne, and one pint of flaked and minced fish (of
one kind only, or a mixture, as you please, chopped
anchovy or shrimps being in any case an addition) ;
toss these all lightly together, and freeze it for two or
more hours in the charged ice cave ; then half fill some
paper or china cases with the frozen mixture, pile up
lightly with carefully boiled cold rice, and serve pbdn.

SMALL ENTRlilES, &c. 81

or decorated with chopped red and green chillies, minced
parsley, coralline pepper, &c. Lobster, which is very
good thus, is improved by the addition of two or three
drops of Tabasco to the mixture. If there is not an ice
cave, put the mixture to be frozen into a tin with a tight-
fitting lid, luting the edge with a little fat or butter, and
. bury it in ice and salt for two and a half to three hours.
Filets de Sole a la diahle. — Marinade some small
fillets of sole, then roll them, tie into shape with a
buttered strip of paper, bake in a buttered tin with a
little lemon juice, under a buttered paper, till cooked,
then put them aside till cold. Prepare a Devil sauce
thus : Crush the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs to powder,
with a teaspoonful of mustard flour, a pinch each of
caster sugar and cayenne, half a teaspoonful each of
salt and freshly-ground black pepper ; mix well together,

■ and moisten, almost drop by drop, with a full half

■ gill of salad oil ; when this is all well blended, stir in a
*■ very finely-minced shallot, or some minced chives,
' adding, by degrees, rather over half a gill of claret,

the strained juice of a lemon, an equal amount of chilli

^ vinegar, and as many drops of Tabasco as you please.

Put a spoonful of this sauce into as many china or paper

cases as you have fillets, then put a fillet into each and

^ fill up the cases with the rest of the sauce ; set a stoned

■ olive farced with anchovy butter on each fillet, and place
■*' the dish on ice, or in the charged ice cave, for two or

• three hours before use. Some people use egg butter
^ seasoned with cayenne, instead of the anchovy butter.

• Others, again, consider the sauce too hot (it is pretty

• strongly devilled), in which case, omit the Tabasco and
^ the cayenne, using coralline pepper instead, and add the
''■ juice of a second lemon instead of the chilli vinegar.

"^ Filets de Sole et de Saumon a la iJusse . — ^GVsr«irs^ V^rt ^Osssai

82 COLD FISH.

small fillets of sole and of salmon, either cooked for the
purpose (in a buttered tin under a buttered paper), or
cut from cold, previously-cooked fish. Mask the sole
fillets with tomato mayonnaise, and the salmon ones
with white mayonnaise aspic, and when they are firm,
dish them en couronne, and fill up the centre with
8u6doise sauce iced, and garnish with scraped horse-
radish.

Filets de Sole, Claudine, — Fillet two nice soles, trim
and bat out the fillets, season with wliite pepper and
lemon juice, roll them up, and fasten into shape with a
band of buttered paper, place them in a buttered pan
with half a gill of fish stock, the juice of half a lemon,
and, if liked, a few drops of wine, salt and pepper to
taste, and bake from twelve to fifteen minutes according
to size and thickness ; then Uft them out and leave them
till perfectly cold. Meanwhile prepare the following
sauce : Stir into one and a half gills of good brown sauce
two tablespoonfuls of capers, a pinch of minced parsley,
four washed, boned, and pounded anchovies, a tea-
spoonful of Lemco, a minced shallot, and three or four
minced mushrooms ; let this all boil up, and simmer it
for ten minutes, then tammy it, add about Joz. of best
leaf gelatine, the strained juice of a lemon, and four
stoned and minced olives ; bring it to the boil again,
and as soon as the gelatine is perfectly dissolved, set it aside
till nearly cold ; then stir in lightly a spoonful or two
of stiffly-whipped cream, and mask the fillets with this
sauce as it is setting. When this coating is firm, trim
the little fillets, and serve them on a bed of chopped
aspic jelly. Another version of this dish is produced by
masking the Uttle fillets with aspic cream, forcing a little
rose^ of sanchovy or green butter out on each, then
serving them surrounded with the previously-given

SMALL ENTRliES, &c. 83

sauce, from which, however, you should omit the
gelatine for this purpose.

Though soles are here given, almost any fish is good
with this sauce, fillets of sea trout or Dutch salmon
being particularly to be recommended.

Darioles de Poisson a VIndienne. — Fry two small
peeled and sliced onions in 2oz. of butter, and when
these are tender and lightly-coloured add about half a
teaspoonful of curry powder, and fry this also for a
minute ; then stir in two small, sliced tomatoes, half a
teaspoonful of curry paste, a good dessertspoonful of
anchovy paste (the quantity of this is rather a matter of
taste), pepper, and salt ; moisten this all with half a pint
of good fish stock, add a full bouquet (thyme, parsley,
lemon peel, bay leaf, onion, &c.), and simmer all for ten
minutes. Then stir in Jib. of finely-minced cold fish,
free from skin and bone, a dessertspoonful of chutney,
and Joz. of leaf gelatine previoiisly dissolved in a very
little fish stock ; when this is all well blended, sieve it,
and when cool, stir into it about half a gill of stiffly-
whipped cream. Have ready some dariole moulds fined
with aspic, or savoury jelly, fill these with the fish
mixture, setting this with a little more jelly, and put
them aside till firm. Then turn out, and serve garnished
with cold boiled rice, in little heaps, and chopped jelly.

Petites Ballettes de Saumon aux Concomhres. — Into
three-quarters of a pint of good velout6 made with fish
stock, add a little essence of anchovy, a good dust of
coralline pepper, loz. of best leaf gelatine, and about a gill
or more of the court-bouillon in which the salmon was
cooked, and boil it up sharply till the gelatine is per-
fectly dissolved, and the sauce has reduced and thickened ;
now add to this a gill of cream, just boil it up again, then
put it aside to cool. Cut up lib. of cold cooka,^ 'ssbJes^x^.^
a 1

84 COLD FISH.

free from skin and bones, into small dice, and cut up
about one-third the quantity of cucumber into tiny cubes
to match, and stir these into about one-fourth part of
the previously prepared sauce, season with white pepper,
salt, and a little lemon juice, and stand it on ice to cool.
Now roll this mince into balls about the size of a golf ball
(or a little smaller), mask them with the rest of the
sauce, to which you have added about half a gill or so
of just liquid aspic, dust them lightly with minced
parsley and truffles and some coralline pepper, and serve
on a bed of chopped aspic. Any fish may be used in
this way.

Very pretty little dishes may be easily made of a border
mould filled with aspic, and then turned out, and
little balls, made as above, coloured chaufroix, or mayon-
naise aspic, being used to coat them, as you please. For
instance, fill a border mould with tomato aspic, and leave
till set ; have ready some ballettes set as above in white
sauce, or paupiettes of sole masked with aspic cream,
and set these on the tomato mould when turned out,
fixing the fish in place with chopped golden aspic, and
fill up the centre with a mac^doine of cooked vegetables,
tossed in mayonnaise, or with small cold potato balls,
dusted with parsley and coralline pepper, and moistened
with mayonnaise.

Bombes de Merlan aux Huitres. — Line some bombe
moulds with aspic cream, then fill them with a delicate
whiting cream seasoned with coralline pepper and
lemon, and mix with some stiffly-whipped cream ; make
a hollow in the centre of this farce and drop in one or
two oysters (according to the size of the mould), bearded
and seasoned with lemon juice and coralline pepper,
cover with more farce, set with aspic cream, and put it
away tiU firm ; then turn out, dish in a circle, and fill

SMALL ENTRliES, &c. 85

up the centre of this with shred celery, crisped in cold
water till wanted, and sliced truffles, all tossed in the
American cooked mayonnaise.

Filets de Sole, Ravigotte. — Bat out and trim the
fillets from a nice sole, and cut each into two or four
according to size ; then sprinkle one side with minced
parsley, white pepper, salt, a drop or two of lemon
juice, and some roughly minced shrimps (prawns or
lobster, according to what you have), mixing these
with a little bechamel or velout^ to spread them ; now
roll up the fillets and fasten them into shape with a
buttered paper, and bake for twelve to fifteen minutes
in a well-buttered tin, seasoned with lemon juice and
a few drops of wine or fish stock, under a buttered paper ;
then lift them out and leave till quite cold. Now
remove the paper bands, trim the fillets neatly into shape
and mask them with ravigotte aspic (three large table-
spoonfuls of ravigotte sauce blended with a short half
pint of just liquid aspic), garnishing them when this
is set with a rosette of anchovy butter, and serve
with triangles of aspic jelly, and seasoned watercress.
Any small fillets of fish may be treated thus, and
need not be rolled.

Petites Timbales de Crabe en Mayonnaise. — Pick
the flesh from a good crab and pound it with a mustard-
spoonful each of made English and French mustard, coral-
line pepper, salt, a dessertspoonful of essence of anchovy,
a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and, if liked, a
drop or two of Tabasco. When this is all smooth,
blend with it half a gill of thick cream, and two and a
half gills of aspic, and sieve it. Now line some bombe
or timbale moulds with tomato jelly, fill them up with
the crab pur6e, cover with more jelly, and put thswi.
away to set. Turn out, diab. m & ctt^^'fc^ «cA ^^nxs^ "^^c^fc

86 COLD FISH.

centre with broken-up lettuce, tossed in mayonnaise,
garnished with anchovy fillets, and halved or quartered
plover's eggs.

Tomates en Surprise, — Stir together a gill of tomato
conserve (or the sieved pulp of some fresh cooked toma-
toes), with a pint of just liquid aspic jelly, adding a few
drops of carmine, if necessary, to bring up the colour
(be careful and economical with this), then line some
tomato moulds with this aspic and, when set, fill them
with cold flaked fish of any kind, tossed in r^moulade
or tartare sauce, pouring a little aspic over to set them,
press the two halves of the moulds together, and leave
till firm. Serve on a bed of chopped aspic, garnished
with seasoned watercress. Any cold fish may be used
for this dish, which does not necessarily require the
tomato moulds, though they are an improvement.

Canots d VIndienne, — For these take little boat-
shaped moulds (though small patty pans may be used
if handier). Line the tins with anchovy paste, prick
them all over, and bake till crisp and dry in a moderate
oven. They will take from twelve to fifteen minutes.
Fill these, when cold, with any kind of flaked fish tossed
in curry sauce, piling them up well ; then mask them
evenly with more curry sauce, stiffened in the proportion
of four parts jelly to one of sauce, and when set garnish
with strips of red chilli and a tiny tuft of chervil.

Any fish may be served in this way, which is, however,
particularly good for the remains of any rather coarse
and tasteless fish, especially if originally stewed, or
served en casserole.

It 13 manifest that in a book of this size it is impossible
to reproduce even a tithe of the pretty ways in which
clever cooks use up their scraps of cold fish and odds
and ends of sauces, for it cani\ot. be too attou^ly or too

SMALL ENTRIES, &c. 87

frequently impressed on the average culinary artist (?)
that a clever cook is invariably an economical one,
and never wastes anything, however small ; though he
or she may be an expensive one, from the variety of
materials needed.

If British housekeepers, and their attendants, could
be induced to understand the importance of small things
we could have far more variety and daintiness in our
menus, and much less expense in our housekeeping ;
but it is safe to say this millenium will never come
till the mistresses themselves will take an intelligent
and practical interest in the service of their tables.
It is to the interest a French house-mistress takes
in her housekeeping and kitchen, that the much
quoted superiority of the bonne-d-tout-faire over the
British *' general " is due. Ang6lique is perfectly
aware that Madame expects, and is determined to have,
full value for her culinary expenditure, not only in
actual food, but in dainty and careful service, and is
thoroughly capable, if need be, of giving practical
demonstration of what she wants done, and moreover
stands in no awe of Ang61ique. Mary- Jane, on the
contrary, has not a little secret, and perhaps open,
contempt for the " missus," the depths of whose ignor-
ance she has long since fathomed, and is perfectly aware
that the said mistress is haunted by a dread of worse
befalling her, should she in any way ruffle the feelings
of her cordon bleu, and lead to the much-dreaded phrase :
" This day month, ma'am ! '*

CHAPTEE VI.

SAUCES, GAENISHES, &c.

Cold fish, like all cold dishes indeed, requires dainty
handling and decoration, and it cannot be too strongly
impressed on the operator that the slightest appearance
of heaviness, over-handling, or messiness, will spoil
any dish, however choice its ingredients, or however
well cooked they may be. Occasionally a little artificial
colouring is almost indispensable to bring up the colour,
but this cannot be too carefully, evenly grudgingly,
added, for if at all overdone it at once vulgarises the
plat completely. Never add any uneatable garnish
to a dish if you can avoid it. Socles of fat or wax wonder-
fully carved, statuettes of wax, &c., may be needed for
State banquets, or for large ballroom supper buffets,
but for ordinary purposes a mould or socle of aspic,
or jelly of any kind, or a crouton of bread, fried to
a golden brown, and served plain or masked with any
coloured butter to taste, is all that is necessary, and
for such purposes is, moreover, in far better taste.
Fish to be masked must be absolutely stiff-cold, before
you attempt to mask it with any sauce ; it must be
neatly trimmed, the sauce (in the case of a large piece
or whole fish) being gently poured over it, just as the
liquid is on the point of setting. Where small pieces

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 89

or fillets are concerned, lift them on a broad-bladed
or palette knife with your left hand, and ladle the
just-stiffening sauce over them, with a spoon held in
the right hand. Do this carefully so as to get the
masking even and all over the article, then put it aside
till the sauce is set, when if not sufficiently brilliant,
a thin coating of plain aspic or savoury jelly may be
poured over it all, and when this is firm it is ready
for use. If savoury butter is used, as in Saumon Mont-
pelier, &c., spread this evenly over the fish, smoothing
it with a hot, damp knife, and finishing with jelly as
before.

One of the prettiest decorations for cold dishes is
chopped aspic, and, as will be seen later, it is not a very
expensive or troublesome luxury. But please remember
the finer it is chopped the prettier and brighter will
it be. The knife used should be dipped in cold water,
and the jelly should be chopped on a well-moistened
sheet of paper ; where you wish to use triangles, &c.,
of this jelly (aspic croutons as they are technically called),
run the just liquid jelly on to a perfectly clean dish or
tin, to the thickness you wish your crouton to be,
leave this till set, then stamp or cut it out to the size
and shape you please. Again, if you wish to jelly
fish fillets, &c., plainly, run a layer of aspic on
a dish or tin (the lid of a biscuit tin answers well
for this), and when this is all but set and is only
just " tacky," as cooks say, ky the fillets on it,
allowing a good margin between each, and then pour
more jelly over it all till the fillets are perfectly covered.
When this second layer is quite set, with a sharp knife or
a cutter, cut out each piece, allowing an edge of aspic
all round. These can then be dished as you please^
the extra aspic jelly being chopped. \xp lox ^ \g6,w>^.

90 COLD FISH.

N.B. — This is an excellent method of preparing fillets
(or, indeed, cutlets, &c.) for a picnic. Choose say a 2lb.
biscuit tin with a well-fitting lid, pour in a layer of
aspic one-eighth of an inch thick, then lay in some fillets
as advised above, cover these with more jelly, then more
fish, and so on, repeating the layers till the box is fnJl,
being careful to finish with jelly. Now let this set, cover
with a moistened sheet of paper, fix on the lid tightly,
and the tin will travel safely anywhere (even by post D
and can be turned out when wanted, cut up, and gar-
nished as before. Eolled fillets, or paupiettes, may also
be packed in the same way for such a purpose. For
instance, collect small round cocoa or other tins,
choosing the slender ones by preference, then pour in
some of the aspic, slip in a paupiette, and pour over it
sufficient jelly to cover it about half an inch thick ; on
this when firm lay another paupiette, and more jelly.
These tins usually only hold two sets of fish. When
wanted, turn out and cut the little aspic roll in two, half-
way between the two rolls of fish, and serve garnished
with fresh watercress. The advantage of these make-
shift moulds is that you need not trouble about them»
and if one or two go astray it does not matter as it
would were the fish moulded in your best Uttle copper
darioles or bombes. At the same time, though your
cook will utilise these makeshifts complacently on such
a *' scratch " occasion (for she will be gkwi to save her
cherished " moulds "), you have no right to expect her
to be content with such oddments for ordinary daily use.
If your style of living authorises such little dainties 3rou
must be prepared to supply the necessary adjuncts.
Now this is a point on which many mistresses wreck
their domestic peace. They simply cannot be made to see
the value of labour-savers. If such Ihitiea «*re suggested

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 91

they look horrified : '* My dear, what nonsense ! A
bain-marie in our kitchen ? All those moulds, stoners,
corers, <fec., in our house *? Certainly not, the woman
would not know what to do with them ! They are for
chefs and hotel kitchens I" It never seems to strike
them that if needed in a kitchen where there is a large
culinary staff, they are doubly necessary where there is
but one pair of hands, however willing, to do the worTi.
Now this is a mistake seldom if ever made by foreign
housewives. When their bonne suggests that
** madame has ordered darioles (or whatever it may be),
but has neglected to provide the necessary jnoulds,
which she has doubtless forgotteni? " Madame shrugs
her shoulders, and, muttering to herself : " Qui vent la
fin, vent les moyens,'' goes off at once to order the articles
desired. The next item for which directions are given,
is the savoury butter. This is a very important item
in foreign cookery, as it is there held that a dash of one
or other of these beurres composes, added just at the last
to any sauce, imparts the crowning delicacy to the
condiment. Abroad a morsel of fresh butter is all but
invariably added to every sauce just as the pan is lifted
off, the butter being dissolved by the heat of the liquid
without actually cooking, thus giving just the fresh
buttery taste which differentiates the French sauce
from its English synonym. If to this fresh butter a
further aroma be added, it follows paturally that the ^
savour is still further increased, whilst the velvety ^
texture is improved as well. For cold dishes these
butters are fully as important, not only as garnishes uy^.^
the shape of little balls, &a, but for use as a coating for.
cold fish, which may be varied wonderfully by the use
of these flavoured butters.

Aspic. — If to be used simply aa a ^rKs^^^N^"^ ^55^3^

92 COLD FISH.

form is the following : Put in a delicately-clean pan 2oz.
of best leaf gelatine (we always use Mrs. A. B. Marshall's
(30, Mortimer Street, Cavendish Square, as not only
does it not vary in quality, but it needs no previons
soaking), a quart of hot water, a dessertspoonful of
salt, the juice of one lemon, a bay leaf, two or three sprays
of green tarragon (or a tablespoonful of tarragon
vinegar), a sliced onion, twenty peppercorns, a short gill
of good vinegar (white wine vinegar if the aspic is to be
pale, good brown malt vinegar if ^Ab to be dark), and
the whites and shells of two eggs. \^^ these ingredients
thoroufihly, bring them to the boil, thnk run them all
through the jelly bag. If properly maVv this produces
a beautifully clear jelly.

Jelly with Stock. — Put into a pan 2oz. of

Mrs. A. B. Marshall's leaf gelatine, a quart of hot, very
clear consomm^ (meat or fish), a bay leaf, a dessert-
spoonful of salt, the juice of a lemon, a short gill of
brown malt vinegar, a spray or two of tarragon (or a
tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar), a sliced onion, and
twenty peppercorns and allspice mixed. Bring all this
to the boil, and then run it through the jelly bafl£| If this
jelly is to bCused for border^, or for the lining on? mould,
2joz. of gelatine should be' jised.

A very nice savoury jelly may also be made in this way :
Dissolve 2oz. of the leaf gelatine in one pint and a half
K of good fish stock (or the strained and skimmed court-
^ bouillon in which fish has been cooked), with a dessert-
spoonful of salt, the finely-cut zest of two lemons (peeled
^^fchin enough te avoid any white pith), and the just
\»othed whites of two eggs y^iih their crushed shells,
stirring it- all over a sharp fire continuously till it just
begins to boil, then draw it to the side, and only let it
simmer for ten minutes. Now strain it very carefully

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94 COLD FISH.

taste with salt and white pepper, and bring it gently
to the lx)il ; simmer till the gelatine isYabsolutely dis-
solved, then add a drop or two of Tabasco, a squeeze of
lemon juice or a few drops of white tarragon vinegar,
and mould as required in a well-rinsed mould. Some
cooks boil a strip of lemon peel, or a blade of mace, <fec.,
with the milk and gelatine, removing this before mould-
ing, and add a good dust of coralline pepper.

Butter, Anchovy. — Well wash 8oz. of anchovies pre-
served in brine, bone and pound them, very smooth,
with an ounce of butter, sieving it afterwards if you are
not certain of having removed all bones, and lastly miy
the whole with 3oz. or 4oz. of fresh butter. Anchovies
preserved in oil are also nice, where the fish preserved
in brine are considered too salt ; whilst many cooks use
anchovy paste or essence of anchovy with the butter
to save themselves, but neither of these answer really so
well as the fish. If the essence is used the yolk of a hard-
boiled egg should be worked up with the butter, &c.,
to give it substance, whilst a drop or two of carmine may
be needed to bring up the colour.

Coralline. — Put into a basin a teaspoonfulof

cayenne, coralline, or Nepal pepper, and work it to a
smooth paste with about 4oz. of fresh butter, being
careful to mix it well as this butter is not sieved. Coral-
line pepper is the best, as its tint is so bright, whilst
its flavour is not so pronounced as that of the others.
Searcy or celery salt are nice used thus.

Curry. — Fry a spoonful of good curry

powder for a minute or two in an ounce of butter, leave
it till cold, then work it into 3oz. or 4oz. of fresh butter,
adding, if Hked, a dust of coralline pepper and a drop
or two of lemon juice. Unless you cook the curry
jt is apt to have a harsh, acrid taste like snuflF.

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 95

Gascony. — Pick over a good bunch of water-
cress, wash, dry, and mince it well ; rub a mortar or
basin two or three times with a clove of fresh-cut garlic,
and pound the watercress in this, working in as much
fresh butter as it will take up, and seasoning it to taste
with salt and white pepper. This is one of many forms
of Gascony butter, most of which, however, are too
strongly flavoured to be acceptable in this coimtry.
Indeed, in this form you may omit the garlic altogether,
simply using watercress and seasoning with the butter,
but it must then be known as Watercress butter.

Horseradisk. — Grate very finely one large

or two small, well-washed and scraped horseradish,
and pound this to a smooth paste with fresh butter,
seasoning it to taste with chilli vinegar ; if preferred,
butter whipped to a cream, or stiffly whipped cream may
be used instead of plain butter, but any way this butter
needs to be well iced.

Lobster. — Pound the shells and claws of a

fine lobster to a smooth paste with as much fresh butter
as it will take up ; then place this in a small pan or jar
in the bain-marie (or in a stewpan three parts full of
boiling water) and cook till the butter is all melted
and nicely coloured. Now wring it through coarse
muslin, and leave till set, when you scrape oflF any
discoloured parts, wipe it well, and re-melt it, adding
a little coralline pepper, stirring this all well together
till it sets. This second melting improves both the
texture and the colour. Crayfish and shrimp butter
may be made in the same way ; but for shrimp butter
most cooks prefer to use the shrimps whole, shells
and all, pounding them with fresh butter, coralline
pepper, and a dust of mace. Prawn butter is oiade
in the same way, but a specially good wLTicxrcvXe. '^s.

96 COLD FISH.

produced by using loz. of curry butter with the fresh
butter.

Maitre d'Hotel. — Blanch some nice fresh

parsley and press it (without squeezing it) till dry,
then mince it finely, and pound this mince into as much
fresh butter as it will take up, seasoning it with white
pepper, salt, and lemon juice to taste. Be sure not
to over-work this butter, or it will spoil. Shape into
pats or balls as you please, and keep it on ice.

Montpelier. — This is made in two ways.

The first is simply maitre d'hotel butter, to which you
add one or more washed and boned anchovies, in the
pounding, working this all to a smooth paste ; the second
is obtained by pounding together loz. of ravigotte
butter and one washed and boned anchovy with as much
butter as it will take up.

Mustard. — Work together mustard flour

with as much butter as it will take up, seasoning it with
chilli vinegar and a httle coralline pepper.

Perigueux. — Peel, trim, and mince five or

six truffles and cook them for five minutes or so in a few
spoonfuls of Madeira or sherry, then when cool, pound
them in a mortar to a smooth paste with 4oz. of fresh
butter ; half a well washed and boned anchovy, or a few
drops of essence of anchovy may be added if the dish
it is to go with requires it.

Ravigotte. — Blanch and pound together a

good spray each of parsley, chervil, and tarragon, some
chives, a tiny shallot, and some small cress, and pimper-
nel if at hand ; work this up with loz. of butter, white
pepper, and a very little salt, and, if liked, half a tea-
spoonful of essence of anchovy, rubbing it all, if
necessary, through a sieve and adding a drop or
two of green colouring. If the anchovy is replaced

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 97

by a chopped and pounded gherkin or two, this
becomes B., Printanier,

D'Uxelles Mixture. — This consists of equal quantities
of minced parsley and mushrooms, with half a part
of chives or finely-minced shallot, tossed in butter
for a few minutes, and then left till cold. Take, say
4oz. each of parsley and mushrooms, Ijoz. of chives or
shallot, and 2oz. of butter, and stir it all over the fire,
seasoning it to taste with pepper and salt, stirring it all
well together. This may be used for stuffing for fish,
and is usually a great improvement on the minced and
uncooked parsley, &c., so often recommended.

Egg Garnish. — The best form of this is obtained by
breaking the eggs and separating the yolks and whites,
cooking each in a diflFerent tin. Lightly mix together
the yolks without actually beating them, then turn them
into any convenient little mould, fold a sheet of paper,
put it into a baking tin with a little hot water in it, set
the mould in this and bake it gently in the oven till the
egg is set, adding more water if necessary, at the same
temperature. The whites can be baked or poached in
the same way, but always cook it very gently, or it will
not set fiat, and will not then cut evenly for garnish.

Sauces. — See. Argenteuil. — Pound the yolks of three
hard-boiled eggs to a paste with half a gill of salad oil,
a teaspoonful of mustard, a saltspoonful of pepper (red,
black, or white, according to taste), and one of salt ;
mix this all thoroughly, then work in a tablespoonful
of cold veloute sauce, and, lastly, a teaspoonful of
tarragon vinegar and a spoonful of chopped green
tarragon, or, failing this, a spoonful of chopped green
parsley, and serve very cold. Excellent with most cold
fish, but particularly good with cold broiled herring.

See. Bearnaise. — This is really, v;Y\^tv oc^j^^ ^ Vstxss. 'sK

98 COLD FISH.

Dutch sauce, and is prepared thus : Put into a pan a gill
each of Chablis and best vinegar (the white tarragon
vinegar is nicest), with a teaspoonful of very finely-
minced shallot and a pinch of salt, and boil it fast till
reduced by half. Now strain it off, and leave till cold.
Next make a good custard with the yolks of four eggs
and half a pint of milk, season to taste with salt, and
white and coralline pepper, then leave it on ice till cold.
When both custard and wine, &c., are cold, whip the
latter very, very gradually into the custard, and
garnish with about a teaspoonful of minced green
tarragon.

If to the above quantities you add two or three table-
spoonfuls of good tomato pur^, this makes a delicious
sauce for serving with any cold fish under the name of
See. a la Francaise. While, if you add a couple of
tablespoonfuls of pounded shrimps and a spoonful
more, coarsely minced, you produce See, Cherbourg —
sometimes called See. Normande. In fact, this sauce
may be varied almost indefinitely. If you have not the
Chablis, use a gill each of white tarragon vinegar and the
best plain vinegar.

See. Casanova. — Rub a bowl across once or twice with
fresh cut garlic, then in it crush together the hard-
boiled yolk of an egg, a pinch of salt, and of white pepper,
a mustardspoonf ul each of French and English mustard,
and a dust of coralline pepper ; now stir into this the
yolk of a raw egg (this should be fresh, but not new-laid,
for these never make such good sauce as eggs that are
twenty-four hours old) ; stir this all together well, then
add, almost drop by drop, a teaspoonful of good thick
cream, and work it all together, adding gradually more
cream till the sauce* is about as thick as butter. (Be
careful in adding this, as if you put in too much, the

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c, 99

sauce will thin suddenly, and will give a good deal of
trouble to get thick again.) Now work into it,
also very gradually, about one and a half tea-
spoonfuls of strained lemon juice ; and when ready this
sauce should become quite white and thick. Kub
the sauceboat in which it is to be served with the garlic,
stir into the sauce the hard-boiled white of the egg and
two or three truffles, all cut into julienne strips, then
pour it into the boat and stand it on ice till wanted.

See. Chaufroix (Brown). — Put into a pan together a
full gill of good brown sauce, two good tablespoonfuls
of sherry, Joz. of Lemco, half a pint of savoury jelly,
and a good dust of coralline pepper ; boil it up sharply
till reduced a fourth part, keeping it well skimmed whilst
boiling, then tammy it, and use as it is setting. This
sauce admits of considerable variation, according to the
kind of sauce and wine used ; for instance, plain brown
sauce requires sherry ; espagnole takes Madeira, cham-
pagne, or Burgundy ; or Chablis will go with either,
according to the style of fish and garnish it is to go
with ; truffles, for instance, used in perigenx sauce
require Burgundy, either white or red, and so on. A
little attention to these details makes a great difference
in the delicacy of the dish. It is well also to remember
that chaufroix sauce is not necessarily a form of aspic ;
cooks are too apt to forget that the foundation flavour of
aspic is always an acid that may not be, and, to speak
the truth, very often is not, suitable for chaufroix
sauces, which should be, and originally were, made
without any stiffening substance whatever ; the con-
sistency and flavour being obtained by the careful
reduction of the sauce in question. Later on, when
chefs learnt to be sparing, both in time and material,
they stiffened their sauces, first with v«»v\%\3^^^^\v\*0«!«^

H 2

100 COLD FISH.

with gelatine, to avoid 'the expenditure of ingredients
and labour necessitated by the ancient reduction
process ; but they kept the line between chaufroix and
aspic sauces very sharply defined.

(White). — For this reduce together a fourth

part a gill of bechamel with a gill of thick creai;a and
half a pint of savoury jelly, keeping it well skimmed ;
sieve it, and use when setting.

(Pink,' also called a VAurore), — Put a gill of

cardinal sauce into a pan with a gill of thick cream and
half a pint of jelly, reduce, skim, and sieve as before ;
then add to it enough lobster coral butter (or coralline
pepper butter) to bring it to a delicate pink, and use
whilst cooling. This is a very favourite sauce. For the
Cardinal see, you stir into half a pint of velout6 maigre
a few drops of lemon juice, a dash of cayenne, a little fish
glaze, or Lemco, and essence of anchovy to taste ; let
this boil up, and then use as above.

Sce.^ Chervil Cream, — Eeduce a fourth part, as before,
a gill each of thick cream, rich bechamel, and half a pint
of jelly, then sieve, and for half a pint of this sauce stir in a
good dust of salt, two teaspoonf uls finely-minced chervil,
a few drops of chilli vinegar, and the same of lemon juice ;
mix this all well together, and use when cooling. This
sauce may be varied almost indefinitely ; for instance,
use green tarragon and tarragon vinegar instead of the
chervil, and you have Crime Froide a VEstragon, Or
minced parsley and plain vinegar may be used for Crime
au persil, but in this case the sauce is improved by being
brought to a pale green with a drop or two of parsley
or other vegetable-green colouring ; or, again, very finely-
grated horseradish and horseradisli vinegar may be
used ; this is particularly good with cold sturgeon, and
is often known as Crime Raifort.

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 101

See., Cucuinber Cream. — Cook a small cucumber till
tender in milk, weak stock, or water, then sieve it, and
when cold mix the pur6e with a gill of mayonnaise,
half a gill of stiffly-whipped cream, a tablespoonful of
tarragon vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a very small dust
of caster sugar ; colour this with a few drops of vegetable
green, keeping the tint very pale, and just at the last
stir in two tablespoonfuls of just liquid aspic jelly. For
this sauce aspic should be used, as it suits the mayon-
naise.

See., Curried (Iced). — Of this there are two kinds ;
for the first, reduce sharply nearly to half, half a pint
each of thick, well-flavoured curry sauce and jelly
(either savoury, or aspic, as you please) ; then, when
cooling, stir into it a gill of stiffly-whipped cream, and
use when just setting ; or else place it in the ice cave,
or on ice till almost frozen. This is particularly good
with crab, lobster, or cold salmon. For the second
method, stir together equal parts of mayonnaise and
whipped cream, stirring in sufficient good curry-
powder to flavour it appreciably, add a good dust of
cayenne or coralhne pepper, and serve.

See., Dutch (Cold). — Dutch, or Hollandaise, sauce is, in
its original state, essentially a hot sauce, the mixture
of flavoured butter and eggs of which it is composed
being far too rich to eat cold ; still, where a sauce of this
kind is desired, a very palatable cold version may be made
by using a custard of eggs and milk, seasoned to taste
as the foundation. For instance, put half a pint of
good vinegar in a pan with a teaspoonful of minced
shallot or onion, some roughly-bruised allspice or black
peppercorns, and a bay leaf, with a little salt, and boil
this sharply till reduced to a gill, strain it,* and let it get
cold. Now make a custard aa Cot \,\\fc V^fe^rwsissfc ^e^^^^

102 COLD FISH.

above, and work into this very gradually the reduced
vinegar, till it is smooth and perfectly blended, add a
little minced tarragon, and use cold. This is also very
good if white vin ordinaire is used instead of the vinegar.

See., Horseradish (Crkme Raifort),—We]\ wash, scrape,
and grate very finely a stick of young hoi^radish,
and to two good tablespoonfuls of this add half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and about half a gill of single cream or
new milk, simmer this gently together for a minute or
two to extract the flavour of the horseradish, but mind
it does not boil hard ; then stir in quickly, off the fire,
one and a half tablespoonfuls of vinegar (either plain or
seasoned) and a tiny dust of caster sugar ; let this cool,
then stand it on ice till wanted. Another way is to
clean and grate the horseradish as above, then whisk it
quickly into a gill of stiffly-whipped cream, flavouring
it as you do so with cayenne and lemon juice, or chilli
vinegar. Abroad, thick sour cream is mostly used for
this sauce.

See., Lobster. — Pick the meat from a lobster and cut
it into neat dice, break up the shell and boil it in milk,
or fish stock, or water, as you please, till the liquid is
thoroughly flavoured ; then melt Joz. of fresh butter,
and sprinkle in from Joz. to loz. of fine, sifted flour
{according to the richness you wish your sauce to be),
and stir this over the fire till the butter has thoroughly
absorbed the flour, and the two form a smooth, even
paste ; then add gradually half a pint of the liquor in
which you boiled the lobster shell, stirring it steadily all
the time to prevent any lumps forming ; when the
liquid is well amalgamated, boil it together for ten
minutes or so, then add a dash of lemon juice, coralline
pepper, the minced lobster, and at the very last, a
spoonful of cream, or a tiny pat of butter, but do not

SAUCES, GARNISHES, «fec. 103

leave the pan on the fire after adding the butter. A
few drops of essence of anchovy are an addition to this
sauce, but must be added very carefully, as the anchovy
must not betray its presence, but is only used to bring
out the flavour of the lobster. Shrimp see, is made in
precisely the same way ; boiling the shells to flavour the
stock, and adding at the last a drop or two of carmine
to colour it a pale pink. Orah see, may be made in the
same way, though you need not boil the shell, but for
this sauce it is always better to use a very rich bechamel
nade with fish stock.

See, Mayonnaise, — Rub together a teaspoonful of
mustard flour, about half an average saltspoonful of
salt, and the same of white pepper, work into this the
raw yolk of an egg ; mix in with a wooden spoon, almost
drop by drop, some good salad oil, till it is as thick as
butter, then stir in about a teaspoonful or so of vinegar,
plain, or flavoured, as you please, when it will become
quite creamy, and is ready for use. This will take very
nearly half a pint of salad oil. Of course the amount of
vinegar is a matter of taste, but must not be overdone.
The great secret in making mayonnaise is to add the oil
as slowly as possible at first ; if added too quickly it
may thin suddenly, or it may curdle, and then the only
thing is to break another egg yolk into a fresh, clean
basin, and work the curdled sauce into it almost drop
by drop. If this sauce must be kept, add a tablespoonf ul
of boiling water to it very carefully at the last, and cork
it down closely in a wide-mouthed bottle, so that the air
does not get to it till required for use ; for if it does the
sauce will inevitably become rank and strong.

In America a eooked mayonnaise is used, which is said
to keep for a few days without deteriorating. For
this beat well together the yoVka ol ^n^ ^%"^'\sn. "^'^s^'^^

104 COLD FISH.

then add a coffeecupful of vinegar, from l^oz. to 2oz.
of butter, a tablespoonful of made mustard, a dessert^
spoonful of salt, and a little white pepper ; stand the
jug in a pan of boiling water over the fire, and keep
it stirred till it thickens like a custard. Now let it
cool, then stir in the stiffly-whipped whites of the eggs,
and use with any cold fish. If you blanch (i.e., pit
on in cold water, bring to the boil, strain off, and rime
in cold water), say, a small handful each of chervil,
chives, parsley, spinach, tarragon, watercress (and
bur net if available), according to what you have, then
dry and mince them very fine, and pound them with a
little butter to a smooth paste, then mix this with
half a pint of rich mayonnaise sauce, adding a drop
of vegetable green colouring, it becomes Mayonnaise
verte, See, Vert-pre, or one form of See. Ravigotte. (The
other form of this is made by blanching, drying, and
mincing the herbs as before, and stirring them till
fairly thick into a French salad dressing.) If you
add these minced herbs to a white mayonnaise, stirring
in at the last hard-boiled egg yolk and white, and
truffles, &c., cut into julienne strips, with some small
dice of lobster or prawns, it becomes See. a la Prince
de GalleSy a favourite adjunct to filets de sole en aspie.

Of red mayonnaise there are two forms, one made
by incorporating a little coralline pepper and some
mustard (to taste) with half a pint of good mayonnaise,
working in as much pounded and sieved lobster coral
as will bring it all to a rich red colour. (This should
be made in the boat it is to be served in, and should
be kept on ice.) The other form, also called tomato
mayonnaise, is made by blending either a gill of French
conserve de tomates, or a pur6e made by sieving four
large ripe tomatoes with a tablespoonful of tarragoa

SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c. 105

vinegar (or a teaspoonful of anchovy and three of plain
vinegar), and rather better than a gill of rich mayon-
naise. If instead of oil, vinegar, and egg yolks you
use lemon juice, cream, and egg whites, you will get
a very dainty white mayonnaise^ most useful for serving
with delicate fish of any kind. Either this form, or
ordinary mayonnaise, is also excellent if just before
serving you stir into it a good tablespoonful of drained
and minced olives, a few drops of lemon juice, and a
dust of coralline pepper, when it is known as M. aux
Olives. If ordinary mayonnaise is used, half a gill of
stiffly-whipped cream or a stiffly whisked egg-white
should be stirred in just at the last, and a better sauce
for cold fillets of sole is hard to find. If any of these
mayonnaises is required for masking fish, &c., mix
three full tablespoonfuls of the mayonnaise chosen
with a short half pint of just liquid aspic, and use
when setting. This is then known as red, white, or green
mayonnaise aspic, according to the mayonnaise chosen.
If, again, you add about an extra teaspoonful of mustard
flour to the raw yolk of egg when starting the mixing,
using shallot or anchovy vinegar, instead of plain
or otherwise seasoned vinegar, herbs as for mayonnaise
verte, but minced, not pounded, finishing with a dessert-
spoonful of sliced gherkin or minced capers, or half
of each, you get a tartare sauce. If, again, you mix
the mayonnaise in the first instance with a tablespoonful
of French mustard, preferably moutarde de Maille^
then add the pounded herbs, with either four washed
boned, and minced anchovies or a proportionate amount
of anchovy paste, you obtain mayonnaise a la remoulade^
or more shortly, See, Remoulade,

A mayonnaise collee or gelatine-stiffened mayonnaise
is often used by foreign cooks that d\ff«^^\w^jwsiR.^^^^

106 COLD FISH.

from the ordinary mayonnaise aspic given above.
For this put into a basin half a pint of liquid aspic,
and as it is beginning to set whisk in, a very little at
a time, about a gill of best salad oil. As this thickens,
which it soon does, beat in more oil till you get the
quantity and texture required, then add a little vinegar
plain or seasoned (being careful not to get it too tart),
a good sprinkling of finely-minced fines herbeSy or
parsley, chervil, chives, and green tarragon, and at
the last stir in about a tablespoonful of cream. This
is not a necessity, but is a great addition.

See., Oyster,— Beard as many oysters as you need
and save their liquor, add to this as much water as will
make up a generous] half pint, and boil the beards
in it till the liquor is well flavoured. Now take Ijoz*
of white roux (or loz. butter and Joz. of flour stirred
together over the fire till blended to a smooth paste)
and moisten it with the oyster liquor, boiling it all
together for a few minutes till perfectly amalgamated,
and when ready lay in the oysters, whole or halved,
and let them heat gently till quite hot, but without
boiling ; Joz.of butter, or one or two spoonfuls of cream
stirred in at the last with a few drops of lemon juice,
and a seasoning of white pepper and salt finish it.

See, Ste, Mhiehoulde. — Rub a basin three or four
times with fresh-cut garlic, and pound together
in it the hard-boiled yolks of three eggs, half a gill
of made mustard, salt, pepper, two shallots, a small
onion blanched and minced, and a little parsley. When
this is all smooth, add in, almost drop by drop, six table-
spoonfuls of oil, and then as it thickens work in two
tablespoonfuls of best vinegar, and stand on ice.

See,y Sardine. — Boil sharply a short half pint of fish
stock with a strip of lemon peel, a bay leaf, some

SAUCES. GARNISHES, &c. 107

parsley, and six or eight white peppercorns ; when
reduced to half, strain and stir into it a gill of just liquid
aspic jelly, six honed, wiped, and smoothly pounded
sardines, adding lastly, when it is cold and all hut
setting, a gill of stiffly-whipped cream. Set on ice
till wanted.

See, Suedoise, — Stir together two tahlespoonfuls
each of finely-grated horseradish and thick cream,
add these to half a pint of rather thick mayonnaise,
with a dash of cayenne, and set on ice till wanted, or
freeze it m a Neapolitan ice-mould in the charged ice
cave, and serve cut into fingers.

See., Tomato Cream. — Crush and sieve four large
ripe tomatoes, adding salt, pepper, and, if necessary,
a drop or two of carmine ; then mix it with half a gill
of just liquid aspic, also a dessertspoonful of tarragon
vinegar, a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, a little finely-
minced tarragon and chervil, and lastly a short gill
of stiffly-whipped cream. Failing fresh tomatoes use
a gill of the French conserve de tomateSj but in that
case be careful with the vinegar.

(Iced). — Cook together four tahlespoonfuls

of conserve de tomxites, four sliced tomatoes, a dessert-
spoonful of good vinegar, an ounce of butter, and a
little cayenne till soft enough to pulp through a sieve,
and stand this on ice or in the ice cave till wanted.

. Halve 3lb. of good, ripe, and red tomatoes,

and place them in a large pan with a good bouquet, two
pinches of salt, one of pepper, and a full gill of water ;
cook this all gently together for forty minutes, stirring
it every five or six minutes with a very clean wooden
spoon, to prevent its catching, then sieve it, add to it
one-third of a pint of good brown sauce, and cook this
together for twenty minutes loug^w^ atvctvA.% >^ "^^ss^

108 COLD FISH.

and again during the process. This can also be made
with canned tomatoes, simply sieving these into rather
more than a gill of the brown sauce. Do not get this
sauce too thick.

Sce.y Vinaigrette. — Dissolve a small teaspoonful of
fine salt and one-fourth teaspoonful of freshly-ground
black pepper in two tablespoonfuls of good vinegar,
then work into it six or seven tablespoonfuls of best
salad oil, tossing the salad into this, and, when it is
all well mixed, adding a spoonful or two of minced
herbs, such as chervil, chives, parsley, green tarragon,
&c., known in France as the foumiture. Putting
the salt and pepper into the vinegar dissolves it, and
avoids any chance of the gritty taste many people
dislike so much. Many salad-makers mix the vinegar,
&c., first with the salad, and then add the oil, tossing
it all together again for the second time. In this country
few people remember that, in old-fashioned France,
mixing this dish was known as fatiguer la salade^ as
they held that it could hardly be too much mixed.

Sce.y Watercress. — ^Well wash and pound half a
market bunch of watercress with a dessertspoonful
of capers, loz. of butter, and the yolks of two hard-
boiled eggs, sieve this, and stir it into one-third of a
pint of rich mayonnaise and half a gill of stiffly-whipped
cream.

INDEX.

Anohoyy oream, 59, 72

Tinegar, 38
Aspio, 91

chopped, to use, 89

oream, 93 •

for fish stock, 3, 92

mayonnaise, 93

ravigotte, 85

tomato, 93
Bhuicmange, savoury, 93
Batter, anchoyy, 94

coralline, 94

curry, 94

Gascony, 95

horseradish, 95

lobster, 95

mattre d'hdtel, 96

Montp^lier, 96

mustard, 96

Perigenx, 96

prawn, 95

ravigotte, 96

savoury, 91

shrimp, 95

watercress, 95
Oanots k I'lndienne, 86
Carp k rAIen9on, 60
Caviar salad, 47

Cocktail, clam, 78

oyster,. 78
Cod pie (fresh or salt), 18

steaks in aspic, 17
„ jellied, 19
„ Su^oise, 19
Collared fish, 10
Court-houillon, 2

au bleu, 2

simple, 2
Crab souffle, 58

timbale, 85
Cream, anchovy, 59, 72

aspic, 93

cucumber, 54

fish, 53

hake, 54

horseradish, 54

whiting, 56
Dorade cremi^re, 20
D'Uxelle, 97 ■
Eel, chartreuse of, 65

collared, 20

galantine, 21

potted, 22

to kill, 21

turban of, 61

110

INDEX.

Fish k rAmphytarion, 79
k la gelee, 13-14
k rindiexme, 20
k la Juive (fried), 11-13
boiled, npright, 6, 14
cases, 41, 68
ohartreuse of, 64
cold, & la S. M^nehonlde, 52
coquilles, 41
creams, 53
curried, 77-80
custard, 52
darioles k la crSme, 72

„ k rindienne, 83
fillets B. de Naples, 39

„ ooncombres, 40

„ aspic, 70

„ mayonnaise, 39

„ salad, 40, 48

„ Pompadour, 39

„ prinoesse, 89
flaked, 27

farce fr. k la Juive, 12
galantine, 10, 16
mousseline, 55
pickled, 14
pie, 9
salad k I'Anglaise, 44

„ k ritalienne, 42

„ aux tomates, 44

„ French, 37

„ m^lang^e, 43

„ mock crab, 40

„ Sunday supper, 41

„ to mix, 49
sandwich, 79

curried, 79
SMVoniy Jelly of, 1 7

Fish souffle, iced, 57, 69

„ and curried, 58

soused, 13

spiced, 45

stuffed, 15

timbale, 57, 62, 63

to boil cold, 7

to decorate, 5, 7

to marinade, 3

to mask, 88-90
Fisherman's salad, 46
Haddock in aspic, 22
Hake cream, 54
Halibut k la Juive, 23

farce for ditto, 24

steak, 23
Herring salad, 46
Hure, 1
Jelly border, 73

savoury, 17, 92
Lobster k la Celdste, 57

chauf roix, 62

eream iced, 63, 75

mould, 74

souffl6, devilled, 75
Mackerel, collared, 25

en mayonnaise, 26

rolled, 25

salted, 26

soused, 27
*< Makeshift moulds," 90
Marinade, 4

cooked, 22

Wyvem's, 4
Masking, 9
Mayonnaise deterioration, 8

unwholesome, 37
Moulds ioT gaama^lL^ 1 , ^

INDEX.

Ill

MaEet, grey, in jellj, 27

red, in mayomuuBe, 28

M moosseline, 55
Olire aonldfl, 7
Over decoration, 5
Oyvter blancmange, 65

creams an cayiar, 72

salad, 47
Pike cheese, 66

jelly, 28

Montp^lier, 29

Nory^enne, 29

r^monlade, 29

Basse, 29
Potatoes, ioed, 20

mayonnaise of, 71
** Prairie oyster," 79
Salade, fish, k TAnglaise, 44

k ritalienne, 42

anz tomates, 4i

caviar, 47

Flemish, 8

French, 37

herring, 46

m^lang^e, 43

oyster, 47

sardine, 46

„ espagnole, 46

smelt, 48

Sunday supper, 41

whiteWt, 48
Salmon k I'Alexandra, 70

balette, 83

Chevrease, 31

cntlets, 70

head or tail to use, 32

Montp^er, 29

Norv^gienne, 30

Salmon pie, 32

and lobster pie, 33

souffle, 59
„ iced, 74

Bomaine, 62

Basse, 71

soased, 32
Saace k la Jaive, 12, 23

k rAarore, 100

Argentenil, 97

B^amaise, 97

cardinal, 100

Caaa Nova, 98

chanfroix, 99-100

chervil cream, 100

Clandine, 82

cod pie, for, 18

cucumber cream, 101

curried iced, 101

Dutch (cold), 13, 98, 101

horseradish, 100, 102

Irlandaise, 54

lobster, 102

mayonnaise, 103

„ cooked, 103

„ English, 44

^ olive, 45, 105

„ red, 104

„ tomato, 104

„ Vert-Pr^, 62,

104
„ white, 105

„ aspic, 105

„ coll6a, 105

oyster, 106

parsley cream, 100

Prince de Galles, 104

112

INDEX.

Sauce r^moulade, 105
Ste. M^nehonlde, 106
sardine, 106
aalmon pie, 32
Suedoise, 107
tarragon cream, 100
tartar e, 105
tomato, 107

„ cream, 107
„ „ iced, 107

vinaigrette, 108
watercress, 108
Sole anx anchois, 71
Colbert, 33
fillets k la diable, 8
„ an yin blanc, 77
„ Boh^mienne, 76
„ Glandine, 82

Sole fillets Danphine, 76
„ rayigotte, 85
„ Bnsse, 81
pickled, Cape fashion, 84
Bistori, 59
timbale cardinale, 73
Sturgeon, 34
Tomates en surprise, 86
Tron^on, 1
Trout, 34

turban of, 69, 75
Turbot en aspic, 85
auz olives, 45
pie, 35
Whiting bombe with oysters,
84
cream, 56

„ and oysters, 56

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A MANUAL

OP

YACHT AND BOAT SAILING.

BT

DIXON KEMF,

Associate Institute of Naval Architects.

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YACHT ARCHITECTURE.

By DIXON KEMP.

Associate of the Institute of Naval Architects.

rIS WORK enters into the whole subject of the laws which govern
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CONTENTS.

PART I. — Some Storiettes : The Man with the Bag— My Coatly
Salmon — The Demon Trout — His Great Catoh — ^A Mnrderons Home-
Enler — A Notorious Pike — The Rector's Daughter — Lottie's Carp —
The Admiral's Punt — The Laird's Cast— A Legendary Grayling.

PART n.— The Circle op the Year : The First Month —
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THE PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF FISHERIES.

A BOOK FOR PROPRIETORS AND KEEPERS.
By the late FBANCIS FBANCIS,

Author of " Fish Culture," " A Book on Angling," ** Reports on Salmon
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Chap.

vrT— oi

3 the Bearing of Fry and
the Conduct of Ponds, Stews,
<fec.

Chap.

I.— Fish and Fish Food.
II.— How to Grow Fish Food and how

to Make Fishes' Homes.

III.— On the Management of Weeds and ' VII.— Some Hatcheries.

the Economy of Fishing. ; VIII.— Coarse Fish,

IV.— The Enemies of Trout and how to \ IX.— On Salmon and Trout Ladders

Circumvent them. ! e.vv<i ?«*%«a.

v.— The Artificial Incubation of O^a. . Kpy^«\>\x.— ^c>\«».» ««..

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BOOK II. Tackle and Tackle Making, v.— Knots, Whippings. Hooks, A&
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BOOK IV. The Best Methods of Sea FISHI^o. XIII.— >6ottom Fishing from
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BOOK Y. The Spobtsman's Sea Fish. XXL— Bass (Labrax lupus). XXII.—
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XXX.— Sharks and Dog Fish. XXXI.— Some other Sea Fish. XXXII.—
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BOOK VI. Improvements in Bods, Beels, Leads, &o. XXXIII.— Modem
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DAT'S BBITISH AND IBISH FISHES.

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By FRANCIS DAT, C.I.E., F.L.S., F.Z.S.,

Knight of the Crown of Italy, Hon. Member Deiitscher Fisoherei-
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DAY'S SALMONID>E.

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British and Irish Salmonids.

FRANCIS DAY, C.I.E., F.L.S., «• FZ.S.

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THE SPORTING DIVISION

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INDEX TO BOOKS.

PAOB

Angler's Diary 6

Archer's Register 29

Bad ininton,Bales and Laws of 27

Bandy ; or, Hockey on the Ice 2 7

Birds, Migration of 13

Bores and Loads for Sport-
ing Guns 16

Buildings, Cottages and

Country 12

Cattle, Sheep, and Pigs ... 23

China, Australian in 21

Chess, Art of 30

Chess Openings 30

Chess, Principles of 30

Chess, Social 30

Cider and Perry 32

Coasts of Devon 12

Collector 31

Combined Figure -Skating ... 26
Cookery, Anglo-Indian, At

Home ... 32

Cookery Books, The Queen 33

Cookery, Gleanings of ... 32

Country House, The 24

Coursing Calendar 20 i

Croquet, Laws of 29 |

Dogs, Collie or Sheep 19 j

„ Modem 17, 18

Dressmaking 31

Down Grange 25

Edges and Striking 26

Embroidery, Old English ... 31

Estate Management 11

Fisheries, Practical Manage-
ment of 7

Fishes of Great Britain and

Ireland g

PAGE

. 34

For His Country's Sake ...

Fox Terrier

Gipsy Tents

Grolfing Annual

Golf, Rules of

Greyhound Stud Book
Gun and Rifle, Modern

Sportsman's

Guns and Gunpowders,

Sporting

Hare Hunting

Hawks, Hints on

Heart a Rake, At

Himalayas, Sportsman's

Yade-Meoum for the

Hockey, Rules of

Horse Breeding Recollections
Horses, Asses, Zebras, &c....
India, Sporting Days in

Southern

Judging Book

Kennel Club Stud Book ...
Lawn Tennis Handbook ...
Lawn Tennis, Laws of
Lawn Tennis Score Book ...

Manor Inn

Mixed Bag, A

Navigation for Yachtsmen...

Outside Edge, On the

Over the World

Pheasant Book

Pigeon Shooting, Rules of . . .

Poultry

Poultry Keeping, Cottsk^c'e.

'NLb^q^q^. q\

19
9
28
28
20

U

15
9

10
34

11
28
24
21

11
28
19
27
27
27
25
7
5
26
29
23
16
22

36

INDEX TO BOOKS.

Bacehorses, Breeding, by the
Figure System

Bowing Almanack

Salmonidse

Sea Fishers, Praotical Letters
to

Shooting Mem. Book, Game-
keeper's

Skating, Figure

Skating, System of Figure

Skating Turns

Sport and Life, Fifteen Years

Sport and Natural History,
Essays on

22
5
9

16
26
25
26
15

14

Surveyor, Practical . . .

Syrian Monastery

Target Shooting, Theory and

Practice of

Texan Banch Life

Training at Home

Ugly, &c

Valuation of Tenant Bight

Wildfowling, Art of

Yacht Architecture

Yacht and Boat Sailing
Yacht Bacing Bocord

„ „ Calendar

MMi*» Nctospapct antJ Ccmrt CljtcntcU,

mtna finx-y«« Kimmw or 1tww» aw wifBArrt
Of DtfTW4iTOiiw mwrt^ Aiao AEnctts AJro

Dress and Faaliioo^
Court Cbronicl«>
Society.

The Li1>mi*

Music and Hwciiiis

Pastimw.

The Garden.

The TouriBt,

Lawm TenniB and Croquet.

Leading Irtieles,

Milcellaneotis ArtideB.

0i2etU de3 Danve^.

The Katumliat

The Work Taldt.

TIm Botidolr.

Tbo BoQsewift.

Penooal^

The Sichaiigt. te*

S^ena Oaonred FUtaa of Hflwefi Fftrii f whiom

* QUEEN" OFFICE*