Rambles on overland trails

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RAMBLES ON
OVERLAND TRAILS

OSHAUGHNESSY

RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

AH

IMMENSE SAND-CUT IN HILL

RAMBLES

ON OVERLAND

TRAILS

BY

THOMAS J. H. O'SHAUGHNESSY

CHICAGO
PRIVATELY PRINTED

1915

m MBW YORK

POBUC LIBRARY

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Copyright, 1915

BY

THOMAS J. H. O'SHAL'GHNESSV

5Tf)c Hakrettit yrrss

R, R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY
CHICAGO

TO
MR. AND MRS. CALKINS

WHO MADE THE TRIP POSSIBLE

AND

MISS ALMA NEELY,

ALL OF WHOM

WERE DELIGHTFUL COMPANIONS

ON THE TRIP

CONTENTS

PAGE

Part One. OVER THE SANTA FE TRAIL AND SOUTH-
WEST. OKLAHOMA, KANSAS, COLORADO, NEW
MEXICO, ARIZONA AND CALIFORNIA ... 13

Pari Tico. CALIFORNIA 57

Part Three. EAST ON THE LINCOLN HIGHWAY. CALI-
FORNIA, NEVADA, UTAH AND WYOMING ... 89

Part Four. HOMEWARD BOUND. COLORADO, KANSAS
AND OKLAHOMA 117

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

IMMENSE SAND-CUT IX HILL Frontispiece

SANTO DOMINGO PUEBLO 15

SANTO DOMINGO PUEBLO 19

CANON DIABLO 23

VANISHING TYPES OF THE WEST 27

HOPI HOUSE AT GRAND CANYON 31

TENTING 35

GOLD ROAD, ARIZONA 39

TOPOE BRIDGE OVER THE COLORADO RIVER ... 43

BY THE SIGN OF THE CACTUS 47

CORNER OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO MISSION ... 51

SUNSET ON THE PACIFIC 59

SEAL ROCKS, CATALINA ISLAND 63

PORTION OF THE OWEN'S ACQUEDUCT 67

A MOUNTAIN STREAM, SIERRA NEVADA 71

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, YOSEMITE 75

GIANT CACTUS AT THE EXPOSITION 79

ON THE SALT FLATS, NEVADA 83

TRANSPORT OF THE DESERT 91

OLD CHINATOWN, EUREKA 95

OUR SLEEPING QUARTERS ONE NIGHT, WYOMING . 99
BALANCED ROCK, GARDEN OF THE GODS . . . .103

GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO 107

OIL DERRICK, NORTHERN OKLAHOMA Ill

PASTORAL SCENERY\ PONCA CITY, OKLAHOMA . .119

PART ONE

OVER THE SANTA FE TRAIL
AND SOUTHWEST

Oklahoma

Kansas

Colorado

New Mexico

Arizona

California

RAMBLES ON OVERLAND

TRAILS

PART ONE

Over the Santa Fe Trail and Southwest — Oklahoma,

Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona

and California

THIS is not a history of places visited, neither
is it a catalogue nor guidebook, but just a
little reminder, or memento, written at the
request of and for a few friends, of a wonderful
trip taken this summer during the months of
May, June, and July.

The equipment carried with us consisted of a
camping outfit, of which we made much use, which
when packed in the car occupied much less room
than that of any other car we met similarly equipped,
and they were man}' indeed.

This was our first tour of any considerable dis-
tance worth mentioning, and consequently I am
not in a position to compare travel this year as
with that of former years, but I feel safe in saying
that the tourist traffic this year has been the largest

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

on record, and will serve as a stimulus to overland
travel in future years. I shall make no attempt
to deal in figures or statistics, but I must say that
on our outward trip we met fully as many cars go-
ing east as on our return we met going west. Dur-
ing the entire trip we met from six to twenty cars
daily, of all makes and models, the large majority
of which were the universal Ford, loaded in all
shapes and every possible way that one could
imagine.

Touring cars were seen from almost all states in
the Union; I say almost for there were a few states
not represented, or perhaps we just missed them.

Great interest has been taken by us in hearing
and reading the many tales of fellow-tourists, some
really interesting, while others were recitals of
what had been told elsewhere, which in the transfer
had lost nothing of coloring. How people will
try to pass such tales is a wonder in itself. For
instance, the richest one we heard was of a party
who, coining to a stream which was deeper and more
difficult of fording than anticipated, backed the
car far enough to permit of speeding up to
forty miles, and hit a large rock from which they
bounced clear across on the other side all safe and
smiling. This, and others one hears along the way

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are beauties of vivid imaginations. Stories of
breakdowns and being stuck, one is more inclined
to credit and take counsel accordingly.

During the nine weeks of our trip we were stuck
just once, and that on the four-mile salt flat in the
Carson sink, between Fallon and Austin, Nevada,
where is a bad spot for persons inexperienced, and
seventy-five per cent of the tourists going through
are people to whom all this is new.

There is a well-beaten track across the flat, but
owing to a peculiar formation in the soil, the trail
is not safe to leave, and if left, the wheels sink in and
trouble is inevitable. Even in walking a person's
shoes will sink three and four inches at each step.
Of course there is a graded road across in the center,
but that is almost impossible on account of the
high centers.

Near Fallon is encountered a very bad piece of
road, due to irrigation work in the vicinity, and a
section that needs attention very much, more so
than any other part of the Lincoln Highway from
San Francisco to Salt Lake.

Apart from the five hours spent on the salt-
flats, the rest of the journey was unmarred, and
even those five hours were well spent, for we learned
much in regard to the nature of the soil, that we

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RAMBLES OX OVERLAND TRAILS

would not have known otherwise. So much for
trouble.

On the afternoon of May 13th, we left Oklahoma,
making but a short run that day owing to a little
engine trouble, which was soon adjusted, and in
justice to the man who did the work, must say,
that traveling as we did, day after day, the engine
was in perfect condition on the completion of the
trip and heated less on the mountains than we had
expected, and some very stiff grades were crossed
too.

Speaking of mountains reminds me that the
famed Raton Pass and La Bajada hill, and the grades
of Arizona and New Mexico, are as child's play
in comparison with the Sierra Nevadas of Cali-
fornia, particularly in and out of Yosemite Valley.
Here one may enjoy mountain climbing to their
heart's content yet, though the grades are stiff,
the roads are very good and safe, which is more
than can be said of other mountain roads, though
the best of such are unsafe when wet. The best
mountain road we traveled was at Gold Road,
Arizona, which is a mining camp. This road is
built to last, and a pleasure to ride on, though few
tourists go to Needles that way.

But, to return. It is almost impossible to write

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without diverging at times, for which one may be
forgiven.

Starting from Oklahoma, and through Kansas
we followed the Santa Fe trail, which in point of
scenery is not so very interesting, but historically
is very important. How grand and glorious it
seemed to be, out in the open, away from the haunt-
ing cares of business routine, and with the prospect
of being in the open for many days to come ! With
what pleasure and enthusiasm we looked forward
to the days and the nights to follow, and the ever-
changing scenery. So different from the limited
view one obtains from the train as it whizzes by,
so swiftly, limiting as it were the impressions ob-
tained. What different impressions and what a fund
of information, one mav obtain from leisurelv tour-
ing and personal contact, when it is possible to meet
and speak with the people of the different localities,
and much out of the ordinary information is gathered.

Does not Bacon, in his "Essays on Travel" say,
' Travel in the younger sort is a part of education"?

Through the state of Kansas the grain looked good
and promised a rich harvest, and the farm houses,
though not conspicuously pretentious presented
a comfortable and prosperous appearance. And
this through a country, that, not many years ago

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was considered absolutely worthless. But what a
change; and this through irrigation! Irrigating
ditches were to be seen everywhere, in the western
part of the state, from Kansas to the Coast and
back to Salt Lake City, and all through Colorado.
What wonders were made possible by this system!
The transformation of barren waste, sand, and
sagebrush, part of the desert lands were fast being
converted into bearing lands; lands on which are
raised grain, vegetables, fruit and trees. Most
of the remaining barren lands throughout the great
West are possible of cultivation, where water is
obtainable, and there is sufficient water going to
waste each year from the mountainsides to cultivate
untold acres of land.

Of course we realize that it is a big undertaking
for big men, the kind that see into the future, the
kind who do things; but when accomplished help
make a better country to live in, and a perpetual
monument to the engineers of the project. Rec-
lamation of waste is the one big proposition of
the day, and in economy and conservation are solved
many vital questions, as to the distribution of mate-
rial welfare, on the subject of which there is much
agitation at the present time.

Illustrations of conservation and supply may be

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seen very clearly in a tour of the country, better
than in any other way.

In the forest service, game laws, mining, and in
the distribution of water through land which has
hitherto been dry, are practical illustrations.

When we listen back fifty years ago to the stories
of men who became rich overnight, and the wild
extravagance of those miners, to whom money was
like so much dirt, there is a vast comparison. Was
not Brigham Young wise, when in giving advice
to his followers, he said "Raise vegetables and feed
the miners and you will all grow rich. If you mine
for gold, a very few of you will make money, but
the most of you will die in poverty." Sage and
noble advice, the heeding of which was profitable to
many.

Some day the western country will be more thickly
populated than it now is, and I think there is a
wonderful future for Arizona and New Mexico.

To return, one great objection to the irrigated
sections is the condition of the roads, which, in
many places are choppy and rough, and many
farmers are careless and let the water overflow from
the ditches, making the roads worse, despite warn-
ings to the contrary. It has even been said that
some farmers take advantage of rains to flood the

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road with water from the irrigating ditches by night,
and by day pulling the ears through with their
teams for extra money. This I do not doubt, as
it has been done before. This means delay and
inconvenience and sometimes a disturbed disposi-
tion, which is not pleasant to meet, and I would
recommend that all ditches, at least the main water-
ways, be made more permanent, as in California,
where they are constructed of cement and bridged
in a proper manner. Mud ditches break loose easily
and frequently, thereby causing serious obstruction
and damage.

Much credit is due to the Auto Club of Southern
California for the manner in which the roads are
sign-posted all through from Denver, and Kansas
to the Coast, on which a large sum of money has
been expended, the return from which will not only
be this year, but for all years to come, as many
who make the trip this year will do so again, also
many who have not. These signs are a lasting
monument of practical usefulness.

The Arkansas Valley, passed through from Dodge
City west to La Junta and Trinidad, is a long stretch
of fertile land, in which is grown alfalfa, melons,
sugar beets as well as grains of all kinds, make it a
valley rich in production, as evidenced by the towns,

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all of which show a thriving aspect. There are
six sugar-beet factories in this valley which take
care of and are an incentive to the growing of that
crop.

Other than the gradual ascent westwards to
Trinidad, not much change is seen 'till arriving
there, where we stayed all night and rested for the
morrow. Yes, indeed, we had a hard climb ahead
of us over Raton Pass, and we needed a good night's
rest .

Woodrow Wilson urges us in "The Man Who Found
Himself to live by enthusiasm; but somehow we
were not over enthusiastic about this Pass, as from
what we had previously heard, we pictured many
dangerous precipitations, and ought not to attempt
going over without an experienced driver.

Our breakfast was not very heavy in antici-
pation of those steep mountainsides, which we
soon started to ascend. Winding up and over
for about fourteen miles, the summit was reached
at an altitude of 8,790 feet, and here the view of the
surrounding country was one long to be remem-
bered, and though narrow in places, the grade was
not difficult, and our fears subsided.

We were more or less fortunate in crossing at the
time we did, for while on the summit, we encoun-

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£

tered a light snow-storm, which was not unexpected,
as the clouds had hung low all morning. It did
not last long, but just long enough to give the
ladies of the party a chance to make a snowball,
which was later passed on to us, cooling the region
of the spinal column. However, as we were about
to make the descent, the view of the snow-capped
peaks and the valley below, was greatly enhanced
by the airy procession of clouds floating through
the valley far below the road on which we were
driving. And everything seemed so radiantly
sparkling and glittering as the sun, breaking through
the clouds, shone forth to greet us, as it were, on
our entrv into Raton, New Mexico. This was the
last drop of rain encountered until near home,
seven weeks later. Safely over the dreaded pass,
it is safe to say that apart from a few spots that
needed repairing, and with the brakes in working
order, and with due care, there is little to be afraid
of, unless the road be muddy, in which case I do
not think that anv mountain road is safe, in fact
they are more or less dangerous when in such a
condition.

That night was spent in Wagon Mound, a little
town, mostly adobe buildings, savoring much of
the spirit of romance. The name Wagon Mound

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is taken from a hill close by, which in shape
resembles a covered army wagon. The 'dobe build-
ings, the burros, all are through this great south-
west, and, most of all, the dark-skinned people of
Spanish and Mexican descent; some progressive,
while others still echo, as did their forefathers,
'manana.' Here is encountered the land of the
rugged frontiersman, the picturesque cowboy, the
romantic Mexican, all men who have blazed
the trail of civilization.

Ranching is noticeable and very evident from
the large flocks of sheep encountered everywhere,
accompanied by their herders, mostly Mexicans.

Between Las Vegas and Santa Fe, a number of
quaint old Mexican villages are passed, some of
them deserted; also the ruins of old Pecos Mission,
a venerable old building, of which there is naught
left but the four walls, said to date from the year
1500. Connected with this mission is a legend to
the effect that Montezuma, after his exile from the
country by the Spaniards, returned upon the wings
of an eagle. At Tienda there is also an old church,
relic of former days, when the Spanish were in
power.

Coming into Santa Fe there is much to remind one
of bygone days, in the narrow streets, which some-

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how resemble old Quebec. An inspection of the
old 'dobe buildings was indulged in, and it seemed
as though each house and corner spoke in tender
whisperings of the faded past, the past that is no
more. From the Governor's Palace to the hum-
blest dwelling, one sees and breathes romance; and
in the Fonda, Old Exchange Hotel, stopping place
of many early settlers, what tales of excitement and
adventure were exchanged in that old building, now
sadly in a state of dilapidation.

In the Governor's Palace, which has been rejuven-
ated and reconstructed to guard against the ravages
of time, is to be found a wonderful collection of
relics and specimens, exhibitions of the American
School of Archaeology, brought from many sources
as a result of their patient searches and investiga-
tions.

Here also was written the famous story of 'Ben
Hur," by General Lew Wallace, who at the time
was Governor of New Mexico; and one can readily
see the source and the inspiration for the wonderful
pen-pictures contained therein, after an acquaint-
ance with the country in and around northern New
Mexico.

Of especial interest in the city is the old church
of San Miguel, still in use for service on Sunday,

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where we had the pleasure of meeting old Brother
David, one of the type who courageously bore the
trials and afflictions of early days in the furtherance
of their beautiful missionary work. This vener-
able old building, the cause of conjecture as to its
origin, is dated by many as far back as 1541.
Partially destroyed and rebuilt, it still stands,
evidence of particular handiwork. In the interior
is to be seen Spanish woodwork and carving, which
evidently is very ancient. Many very old paint-
ings are there, hanging on the walls, as they have
done for many years. One of these we are told is
of the thirteenth century. This with some Italian
and Mexican work, and the statues are very inter-
esting, and afford much subject for thought, as
to their preservation and coloring. Also to be
seen here is a very old bell, hammered and cast in
Spain, so we are told, and we have no reason to
doubt this statement. On the top of the bell is a
crown, through which is fastened a rawhide rope,
by which the bell is suspended. Made of copper,
silver, iron, and gold, and being four inches thick,
it gives a very beautiful tone, and so sensitive is it,
that touched on the outside with an ordinary pencil,
a very lovely chime effect can be produced. A
very pleasant hour was spent here with old Brother

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David, and on leaving, the old cemetery was plainly
to be seen.

In the center of the city stands the Plaza, in
which there is a soldiers' monument of native
marble.

From Santa Fe one may enjoy a few lovely trips
to the various Indian pueblos, and not having seen
either Taos, or the Puye ruins, we contented our-
selves with a visit to the Santo Domingo pueblo,
in which there are about one thousand inhabitants,
living in much the same manner as formerly, still
maintaining their peculiar customs, undisturbed
by the invasion of their white neighbors. What
is at once noticeable about the village is the total
lack of agriculture, and save for some goats, sheep,
and fowl on the place, there is nothing to indicate,
where their means of subsistance is obtained.
The whole thing resembles one large mud house set
out on the sandy country; yet the interior of the
buildings are very clean, despite the number of
individuals under each roof.

On the road between Santa Fe and Albuquerque,
is the famous La Bajada hill, from which a steep
descent is made on the south side following numer-
ous hairpin turns, there is a drop of about nine
hundred feet in a mile, but the road is very well con-

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structed and shows some features of engineering fore-
thought.

What a contrast between the two cities, Albu-
querque presenting a very up-to-date appearance,
and the road on to Magdalena winding over the
mesa, on which water is quite scarce, except for
a few springs, which are none too clean. Mag-
dalena to Springerville the road winds through
and over some very pretty country, most of which
is through forest reserve, and over the continental
divide at an altitude of 8,200 feet. For about
fifty miles into Springerville the road is anything
but desirable, being rough and stony, and hard on
tires, two of ours having met their Waterloo there.

One place where we intended visiting was the
Petrified Forest, but owing to spring floods the bridges
were washed out, making the journey there im-
possible, and detour by way of Concho and Snow-
flake brought us to Holbrook on the south side of
the river.

The next place of interest on the road was the
Meteorite Canyon, a deep gash in the ground,
said to have been caused by the fall of a meteor
on this spot, which displaced the ground so that
from a distance it appears as though a huge wall
had been built around this immense hole. Samples

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of metallic formation have been excavated from
here, presumably for commercial use, but extensive
operations have failed, and the attempts abandoned,
owing to the dirt sliding and caving in all around.
Meteoric phenomena have been traced in Chinese
records as far back as 644 B.C.; and from the seventh
century B. C. to A. D. 333, sixteen falls of aerolites
are recorded in the astronomical annals of the
Chinese, according to the American Encyclopaedia,
sometimes exploding and projecting upon the earth
fragments, called meteoric iron, they are proved to
be solid bodies in a state of intense heat, and are
then known as aerolites or meteorolites. Such is
what is found here through excavation.

Near the canyon, on the plains, we saw a number
of honest-to-goodness cow-boys who, partaking of
their midday meal completed the picture. At the
time a round-up was in progress and bunches of
horses could be seen in all directions.

From here the road into Flagstaff was but a short
distance, over the Canyon Diablo, and after re-
plenishing our stock of supplies, we hastened out
in an effort to reach Walnut Canyon before dark,
which we did and as a reward had a lovely view of
the prehistoric cliff-dwellings by sunset. To tell
of these dwellings is the work of a scientist, but

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certain it is that they were built in a secluded spot,
which in itself was protection against marauding
bands of invaders or enemies. Comfortable they
looked and well built.

At the Cliffs ranger station, we had the pleasure
of meeting Mr. Pierce, the forest ranger stationed
there, and from him we learned much of interest,
as he, being a genial old-timer, was a fund of in-
formation. Our camp there overnight was a very
pleasant one which we enjoyed greatly, and many
were the tales told over the camp-fire that night.

Leaving the Cliffs next morning, we followed
the road through beautiful pine and cedar forests
all the way to the Grand Canyon, commanding
an excellent view of those grand old San Francisco
peaks, which, towering to a summit of over eleven
thousand feet with their snow-capped peaks, seemed
to merit the respect of all who gaze with rapture
at their beauty.

Arriving at Grand View late in the afternoon,
an incomparable view of the Grand Canyon by
sunset was our reward, and that sight will ever
remain fresh in my memory. The wonderful, ever-
changing effects of light and shadow, fairly and fanci-
fully playing on your mind are long to be remembered.
The rest of the evening I sat alone, gazing idly,

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trying to fathom the impenetrable depths, but the
grandeur, the sublimity, the bigness and the awful
stillness beggar description, which has been tried
time and again, but all confess their inability to do
justice. 'The Grand Canyon should be seen by
all," said Mr. Roosevelt, and he was right. With-
out seeing them, one cannot realize how, from vast
depths below, those weird-shaped domes rise ma-
jestically, shining forth in their various haunting
hues. In a shimmering glow of beauty, the gigantic
rock forms are seen dimly outlined, as twilight
casts her shadow, and all is bathed deep in mystery.

A very picturesque driveway is followed from
Grand View on the east side to El Tovar on the west
side, where another beautiful view of the canyon
is had, different from that seen at Grand View.
Down to the depths of the canyon, there are many
narrow trails, on which the bottom of the canyon
may be reached by pony or burro, which are kept
there for the benefit of tourists. Bright Angel
trail gives one an idea of the wonders to be seen
below.

Leaving behind us this magnificent spectacle,
our road went south to Williams, thence to King-
man and Needles.

Before going further, I would like to say that if

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ever I have to start investigating climates for the
benefit of mv health, the first choice will be the
country adjacent to Flagstaff and Williams, in
company with the grandeur of the mountains, for
here in my estimation is one of the grandest climates
to be found anywhere. The atmosphere is the
clearest and purest, and failing that I think the
country near Banff, and Lake Louise, Alberta,
in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, would be
second choice.

Much good road work will be found in Arizona,
especially over the mountains to Gold Road. Gold
Road is a mining camp of much activity, and is a
novel sight to one unaccustomed to mining towns.
Before reaching Topock a short stretch of sand is
encountered which is soft and hard to travel if one
does not keep right on the trail. At Topock we
were fortunate in not having to wait any length of
time before crossing the railroad bridge, which is
a great saving of time to tourists in not having to
ferry across.

On Sundav afternoon we entered the state of
California, and through my mind ran ever recurring
thoughts; "this at last is California," land of my
dreams, but not as I had pictured it, for instead of
flowers and fruits, all I beheld was desert sand and

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mesquite, interspersed with cactus, much the same
land as that through which we had come farther
east; but on entering Needles we saw many flowers
and palms, and how hot it was there! Everybody,
it seemed to me, was using fans in an effort to be
comfortable. Fanning seemed to be the popular
pastime of all.

For the benefit of some of my readers, who at
any future time may contemplate a trip such as
ours, I will give an extract of some 'advice" given
us along the road.

'It is advisable to fill all auto bags or canteens
before leaving Needles for the trip across the desert.
In the cooler weather, should leave Needles about
four o'clock in the morning, and in the months of
June, July, and August, should leave about four
o'clock in the afternoon, and drive all night, in
which case take lunch.

''Although the popular opinion among eastern
tourists is that this stretch across the desert is one
to be dreaded, as a matter of fact, it is one of the
most pleasant portions of the trip. The sand is of a
coarse nature, and not the least troublesome at
any point and with the exception of crossing a
few rough washes now and then, the whole trip is
made in high gear.

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* The tourist will also observe the auto road largely
follows the railroad, with a section house every
eight miles, where in the event of an accident to
the machine, water, food, and shelter can be had.
During the months of June, July, and August, it
is preferable to make this trip at night: there be-
ing no vegetation the reflection of the moon makes
it almost as light as day. Xo auto lights are
necessary, while the atmosphere is much cooler.
Enough small wood can be found to cook with."

In commenting on this I would say not to de-
pend on the section houses because they are not
in the business of catering to tourists and therefore
their stock of provisions is never any greater than
their actual need, as it is not the easiest to keep
food in fresh condition on the desert. But travel-
ing across the desert by night is enjoyable, and
not to be feared in the least.

Leaving Needles about seven o'clock in the even-
ing we traveled on the Mohave desert until mid-
night; when feeling tired, we decided to rest a little,
which we did, arising about three o'clock in the
morning to resume the journey across the desert,
taking breakfast at a Chinaman's place in one of
the towns which constitute little India, consisting
of the towns of Cadiz, Bagdad, and Ludlow. Much

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the same country was traversed 'till reaching San
Bernardino, where at once a noticeable change was
evident, for here were the fruits and flowers of
which I had dreamed; all the result of irrigation.

Continuing west over a good road we passed
through numerous orange and lemon groves, and
the little towns along the way seemed happy and
prosperous. What one notices particularly are
the beautiful and substantial school buildings every-
where.

Pasadena, a city very well known as the home of
many millionaires, contains a number of large and
handsome residences which are well kept and
trim. The Busch sunken gardens are truly a work
of art and admired by all.

[54]

PART TWO

California

PART TWO

California

OUR arrival in Los Angeles marked the com-
pletion of the first two weeks of this wonder-
ful trip, during which time our appetites
were stimulated, and the nights spent in the open
were nights of perfect rest. The mornings always
found us fresh and eager for the day, which was
true of the trip from start to finish. A few days
spent in Los Angeles permitted of the various
drives around the city, Universal City included,
which was a novel sight, but flower-bedecked Holly-
wood was appealing.

Los Angeles is supposed to have been settled by
Spaniards in 1780, and was known as Pueblo de
Los Angeles, or town of the angels, a name given
by virtue of the excellent climate, and beauty of
the surrounding country in which is a fertile valley,
containing many vineyards, orange and lemon
groves, and flowers and trees of all kinds.

El^Camino Real, beautifully sign-posted all along
with mission bells, which are marked, giving the
distances between the principal towns, and di-
rections to the Missions. The bells are placed

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along the road, not merely as guide posts, but as
testimonials to the work of the Franciscan Padres,
pioneers in their work, and in the settlement of the
coast lands. Of the bells, Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes has
written an adaptation of Poe's "Bells."

The tragic history of the Missions is one of in-
terest and a study separate in itself, romantic and
historic. Its influence on early California settle-
ment no one will deny. The old pictures and statues
seen therein are credited with showing their original
coloring, taken mostly from vegetable matter.
The old Mission buildings with their quaint archi-
tecture speak very tenderly of the past, the broken
past which will never be revived. One may almost
picture the padres, walking through the cloisters,
chanting as they go along their litany and office.

In the ruins of the Capistrano Mission are many
evidences of the decorations that once were to be
seen, but with the earthquake of 1812, and the
ravages of time, much of the beauty of the Mission
has been lost. In the foreground as 3^011 enter
there stands a monument, erected to the memory
of Father Serra, whose untiring efforts accomplished
much.

Father St. John O'Sullivan, the present incum-
bent of the Mission, a man whose interest is in the

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restoration of the crumbling remains of the glory
that once was, has written a little booklet, called
'Little Chapters," which is of help in explaining
much that we know not of in relation to San Juan
Capistrano; not a comprehensive history, he tells
us, but a handbook of information for those who
visit the place, and in the conclusion of which, he
writes pathetically: 'The Mission is in ruins; the
Indians are no more; the pious padres are long since
gone to their reward. The world which loves the
flesh and the pride of life says and believes that the
work was a failure, but in a sense that the world
does not and cannot understand, the things they
wrought will one day rise like a glorious sun over
the ocean of eternity while the work of the worldling,
which is now so proudly held up for the admiration
of his fellow-man, will sink and disappear, like the
sorry wreck of a ship, pounded to pieces on the
treacherous rocks of time."

A strong valediction, but who can tell, perhaps
they are justified.

Looking at the dreamy town of San Juan, and
out onto the green and fertile valley, sloping west
to the Pacific, towards what is known as La Boca de
La Playa, one may see the prosperity that once
reigned, and the happiness that all knew, though

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I doubt if the town ever showed any activity, more
than is seen at the present time, which is little enough.
Of the earlv davs Father O'Sullivan savs:

The bull-fight took place in the plaza of the town, within an
enclosure surrounded by high stakes which were driven into
the ground and bound together by means of raw-hide strips.

Leaving the old mission behind, we traveled on
through San Onorfe, Oceanside, Encinitas, com-
manding all the time a most compelling view of
the tranquil waters of the Pacific.

It was late in the evening when reaching Del
Mar; a pleasant hour was spent to allow of a
delightful repast, after which we were on our way to
San Diego. The Stratford Inn at Del Mar is one
of those places which in trying to escape the con-
fines of the city is eagerly sought after, and here
in retreat, gazing on the sunsets of the Pacific day
after day, never grow tired of the peaceful outlook.
Efficient service is the watchword, and such is a
boon to the tired tourist the world over.

Reaching San Diego by moonlight, not much was
seen, but in the morning our chief point of interest
was the Exposition, whither we went, and the
quaint collection of buildings, Spanish in feature,
at once held our attention together with the blend-
ing in color effect of the flowers and architecture.

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One feature of this Exposition that appealed
to me, was the New Mexico building, and a residence
such as this was, with the patio and courtyard,
where one might retire in seclusion, and enjoy the
quiet, is to be much admired and at the same time
desired. This building is especially interesting,
being a faithful reproduction of the great adobe
Mission of the Indian pueblo of Acoma, built in
1699, modified of course to some extent.

A little journey into Tia Juana, Mexico, was the
result of the inborn curiosity, of which all tourists
have more or less to see this place; and I am of the
opinion that were it not for the tourists from this
country, there would not be much of this place
left. The gambling places are operated by xAmeri-
canos, and entering a restaurant in an endeavor
to find some Mexican chile, we were waited on by a
Chinaman, who was the proprietor of the place.
The reticence of the Mexican to discuss the political
situation of their country is at once noticeable, and
further inquiries are ineffectual, like trying to take
the picture of an Indian, without paying him.

The Fuerta at the time was occupied by soldiers
of General Villa, but who occupies it to-day is conjec-
ture. From the assortment of the curio stores we
did find one zerapa, which was so unusually attrac-

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tive as to merit consideration and which was pur-
chased without much hesitation, and is now one
of the prized souvenirs of the trip.

Our tour of San Diego was incomplete without
having seen the famous "Ramona's Marriage
Place," and here with "H. H.'s" novel in mind,
we visited the old "Estudillo Mansion," which is
indeed a relic of former days, enclosed in which is a
beautiful courtyard, resplendent with flowers and
trees, and nearby is an old wishing well, which, no
doubt, was at one time in great demand.

From the relics and paintings gathered together
in the building, one may learn much of interest
pertaining to the early history of California. A
lovely view of Ramona's haunts, and Camulos
Ranch is to be seen from the White Cross.

In the immediate vicinity is the old town, where
we are told was the original landing place of Father
Juniperro Serra, whose efforts resulted in the
establishing of the Missions along the coast. Also
here was planted the first palm in the state, which
with other pieces of history, make the place one of
unique interest.

One thing likable about Southern California is
the even temperature and climate, the average
mean being about 60 to 68.

[66]

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Taking a last beautiful view of Point Loma and
the bay, we retraced our road north through La
Jolla, skirting the water's edge, on a concrete road,
which is followed while in San Diego county, a
distance of sixty-eight miles north from the city.

Passing through lemon and orange groves and
some walnut groves, we arrived in Santa Ana,
detouring from there to Long Beach, from where
we went the next morning to San Pedro, home of
the great harbor, there taking the boat on a trip
to Avalon Bay, Catalina Island, which was a change
from the car, and every moment one of interest.
An excursion in the glass-bottomed boat permitted
of an excellent view of the submarine gardens.
Looking at many things of much importance, un-
der the water, was, to us from the prairie, a novelty.
The sea-cucumber, a mixture of animal and vege-
table life, is seen clinging to the rocks in the same
manner as a shellfish, is used by the Chinese as a
table delicacy, the method of preparation of which
I am ignorant. Also the kelp from which is ex-
tracted potash. The various flowers of many tints,
and the fish, chief of which are the golden perch
and sardines, all are seen so very clearly and dis-
tinctly in their natural life. One can also see and
admire the baby seals in their native rookery,

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which is maintained on the island by the govern-
ment.

The flying fish, seen flying in all directions, in
their flight above the water, exhibit a great deal of
gracefulness, especially at night when, with power-
ful searchlights turned on them, they present a
picture peculiarly maritime, as they splash and
sport around.

Of the flying-fish Thomas Moore has this to say:

When I have seen thy snow-white wing, from the blue wave at

evening spring
And show those scales of silvery white, so gayly to the eye of

light,
As if thy frame were formed to rise, and live amid the glorious

skies ;
Oh, it has made me proudly feel, how like thy wings' impatient

zeal
Is the pure soul that rests not, pent within this gross world's

element,
But takes the wing that God has given, and rises into light and

heaven.

But when I see that wing so bright, grow languid with a moment's

flight,
Attempt the paths of air in vain, and sink into the waves again;
Alas! the flattering pride is o'er; like thee awhile the soul may

soar,
But erring man must blush to think, like thee again the soul

may sink.

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How truly the poet describes the flying-fish, and
how vivid the contrast!

One of the memories of the day was the sunset
on the Pacific, on our return to the mainland. That
indeed was something to behold, and to touch the
hearts of us. The gradual disappearance of the
great ball of fire as it slowly sank into the west,
and the ever-increasing coloring and reflection
on the water, rippling and golden, held my atten-
tion so that all else was oblivious for the time being.
I have seen and watched manv beautiful sunsets
on the prairie, especially in the fall of the year, but
never anything to equal that sunset on the Pacific,
slowly, slowly fading and growing duskier till all
shade of coloring was lost in the inky blackness
of night.

When the shadows of night fell we were on our
way back to the city once more, where a few days
more were indulged in admiring the beauties of
Los Angeles, 'neath the magnolias and the palms,
which in turn were soon displaced in the admira-
tion of something else.

A favorite place while in the city was Christo-
pher's, where we found rest and comfort when tired
and hungry, and characteristic features of the place
were politeness and courtesy.

[73]

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So, bidding good-bye to flower-bedecked Holly-
wood, we started once more; this time in a northerly
direction to San Francisco. Following the beaten
trail to San Fernando, where an inspection of the
Sylmor Olive Plant was irresistible. This place
is a 2,000 acre ranch, and is the largest olive grove
in the world under one management. It contains
100,000 trees, the tract being laid out in blocks with
an avenue sixty feet wide around each block. It
is readily seen where the name is derived from —
Sylmor, meaning "sea of trees."

Later, in making a detour, an attempt to go by way
of the San Francisquito canyon was unsuccessful,
and on learning of trouble ahead, we turned back
a long distance rather than take chances on a
strange road. The next attempt was more suc-
cessful, and going by way of Boquet Canyon,
Bailey's was reached that night, where a comfortable
stay was made. From here, next morning we con-
tinued on through Tejon Pass, and at Rose Station
just beyond is a large ranch owned by General
Otis, where much of his time is spent.

Arriving in Bakersfield we were at once impressed
with the enormity of the Kern River oil-fields, a
very good view of which is seen from and leaving
the town.

[74]

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, YOSEMITE

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Visiting at the Italian-Swiss Colony at Kings-
burgh, on the road to Fresno, invitation was
extended to taste some of their excellent wines.

Inquiries at Fresno convinced us that it was un-
necessary to go to Merced, so taking the W'awona
road through such old-time places as Bates, O'Neals
Coarse Gold, Fresno Flats, and Fish Camp, where
is a delightful spot for camping, in fact a camping
paradise, and after a late breakfast, proceeded to the
Mariposa Big Trees. Here, indeed, are trees well
deserving of the title "Big," known as the Sequoia
Gigantea, chief of which is the "Grizzly Giant," a
tree aged many centuries, measuring 204 feet in
height, despite the fact that much of its top has
been destroved, and 30 feet in diameter. This
in company with other large giants of the forest,
all of which are named after some person well
known, and for each state, make a visit to the
Grove one of deep interest. Then there are such
trees appropriately named, such as Telescope Tree,
which is hollowed out in such a manner as to permit
looking through to the top, the Faithful Couple,
growing side by side, inch by inch, the same in
height and appearance.

A quotation from Scribner's Magazine of early
date, says:

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The waving of a forest of Giant
Sequoias is indescribably sublime.

These trees, in company with the valley, have been
the subject of much research and exploration,
scientific and historical, by such men as Galen Clark,
the beloved, John Muir, and others of note, poets
and lovers of nature, all.

Our first view of the valley was late in the after-
noon, when on Inspiration Point, we beheld for the
first time the Bridal Veil Falls, as the sun sinking
on the opposite side cast a reflection on the falls,
and with the wild spray gently blown by the wind,
resembled a piece of colored chiffon floating in
the breeze, so iridescent was the effect. Looking
down into the valley far below, one may readily
see where the names, Artists' View and Inspiration
Point are justified, for there is beauty and coloring
to inspire any artist.

At this point we would like to have dallied longer,
but the steep descent before us was not one to be
chanced after dark.

The valley proper was a surprise to us; there is
so much more there than one expects to see. The
tranquillity of the place is impressive, and a con-
viviality and freedom reigns, into the spirit of
which one at once enters. Tramping around or

[78]

GIANT CACTUS AT THE EXPOSITION

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following the trails on reliable burros many are
busy seeing the various points of interest, and
when night comes, after listening to some of the
many lectures given by the photographers, one is
ready to lay down and sleep the night through,
waking in the morning feeling refreshed and ready
for the day. In the valley there is a great deal to
attract one's attention, chief of which is Mirror Lake,
for mirrored in the placid waters of the lake the re-
flection of everything around is perfect, and seen in
the early morning at sunrise, is one of the memories
of the trip. And then, such places as Happy Isles,
El Capitan, and others are prominent features of
interest, the various spires and rock projections
lending a grotesque enchantment to the place. Then
there are trails to ride, mountains to climb, and
the doings of the Sierra Club gives one an idea of
how much is possible without going to Europe.

A book which I enjoy reading is 'Yosemite and
its High Sierras," written by John H. Williams,
in which are many lovely illustrations.

On one large stone there I counted seventeen
holes, or grist-mills, made and used by the Indians
in grinding corn. Whether they were all in use
at one time or not I cannot say, but if they were,
it must have been a busy place at the time.

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Getting out of Yosemite is much similar to going
in, that is, there are a like amount of grades to over-
come before reaching the flats, which of course one
does not mind when the roads are in good shape.

Going by way of Big Oak Flat road we passed
through the Tuolumne Grove, where there was a
large tree, through the center of which we drove the
car. Thence to Chinese Camp and Knights Ferry,
French Camp, and Tracy, relics of olden days.
Somewhere between Groveland and Jacksonville
there is a very steep decline, a remarkable piece
of engineering, on which with the ignition shut off,
we coasted for ten miles.

While attempting to cross Livermore Pass by
night, we were unfortunate in encountering a very
severe sandstorm, such as to make further traveling
impossible, so turning back, we stayed at Tracy
overnight, from where we proceeded on to San
Francisco next day. Before reaching Oakland, it
was our pleasure to discover a lovely little place
called Canyon Inn, near Dublin Canyon, where
hungry autoists are made welcome, the service
being individual and all that one would wish for.

Arrived in the city, a number of days were de-
voted to the first point of interest, the Exposition,
which to attempt to write of would take too much

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space, and besides the advertisers have taken care
of that, I will merely mention that we enjoyed
everything there to the fullest extent.

One thought which comes home to visitors in
the city, is the courage and optimism with which
the city was rebuilt in the face of the awful calamity
of 1906. In a tour of San Francisco, it is no diffi-
cult task to picture the desolation and sorrow
through which the victims went, and the destruc-
tion wrought at the time.

Chinatown is more or less disappointing as com-
pared with that which existed before the fire, but
a night of fun and interest was spent in exploring
this section of the city.

The Exposition grounds seen by night, when the
buildings and grounds lighted in all their glory,
are an alluring sight, and can be seen for many
miles.

In a comparison of the two Expositions, it is
conceded that the one of San Diego is in character
more of a local affair, featuring as it does the prod-
ucts of California, but which nevertheless is edu-
cational and brings to mind the possibilities of
what can and is being accomplished in that
country.

A visit to the Golden Gate Park, The Presidio,

[85]

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Seal Rocks, and some downtown buildings com-
pleted the stay in San Francisco, and eager to be on
the highway once more, we made our departure,
starting homeward.

[86]

PART THREE

EAST OX THE LINCOLN HIGHWAY

California
Nevada
Utah
Wyoming

PART THREE

East on the Lincoln Highway — California, Nevada,

Utah and Wyoming

EMERGING from Livermore Pass, the won-
derful San Joaquin valley was entered once
again, and the glorious fields of grain were
pleasing to behold.

Near Sacramento a new system of mining is in
operation, of which this is said: 'It is within the last
three years that Sacramento has come to the fore
as a gold producer. This is due to a new method
of mining-dredging, which has made it profitable
to work deposits previously having practically no
commercial value. In 1900 the county's gold
output was $176,007, which in 1908 passed the
million mark." And again we read: 'With the
gold removed from the land along the rivers, the
soil is turned into agricultural land," all of which
is part of a reclamation scheme.

Placerville, on the way to Lake Tahoe, formerly
known as Hangtown, was the next stop, and ex-
ploited as being the center of much mining activity,
when all the country was in the throes of excite-
ment over the reported discoveries of gold, and

[89]

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the magnet which attracted much immigration to
this section of the United States many years ago,
when miners either grew rich, or scattered their
bones along the wayside, in their wild fever to
find the precious stuff. Places and scenes made
familiar to us by Bret Harte may be conjectured;
in fancy we picture the novelist as he wandered
about the mining camps for three years, analyzing
the life and conditions of the miners. Much of the
old-time appearance still exists, despite the progress
made.

Arriving at Al Tahoe late at night we did not see
much of the lake till next morning, when we were
up bright and early, to see the beauty of the lake
by sunrise. A boat ride around the lake and Em-
erald Bay, and the drive along the west side to
Tahoe Tavern gave us an unexcelled view of this
magnificent body of water, which is about twenty-
five miles long, and twelve or thirteen miles wide,
and created in us a desire to return at some future
time.

Lake Tahoe in point of scenery and grandeur
is one of the prettiest of its size in the country. In
the clearness, the purity of the water, there is a
charm at once appealing to the finer sense. The
location is ideal, and the many happy idle hours

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spent 'neath the pines, were whole-souled hours of
rest and content, for, to quote Moore;

How calm, how beautiful comes on
The stilly hour, when storms are gone.

Round about are many smaller lakes, forming

as it were a circle in the center of which is the larger

lake, each individually attractive, and the mountain

streams, sources of which are the many snow-capped

mountains, visible in all directions, looming large

against the sky-line, from which the snow trickles,

trickles, never failing in its abundant supply, till

gradually growing larger it rushes wildly to river

and lake.

And out again I curve and flow

To join the brimming river,
For men may come and men may go,

But I go on for ever. — Tennyson.

Situated as it is at an altitude of 6,200 feet one
will always find it cool and refreshing. The natural
element of the lake, the fact that the place is not
infested with curio stores will appeal to many
tourists, who have seen these curio stores and pur-
veyors of trinkets in almost every quarter of the
globe.

It was with reluctance that we bade good-bye
to Lake Tahoe, to continue the journey over Dog

[93]

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Valley road to Reno, going through much timber,
a scarcity of which was noticeable from Reno going
east, also a change in soil was evident, for here we
again encountered desert lands, much of which is
under cultivation, and the roads being graded are
very bad and choppy, being sadly in need of atten-
tion between Hazen and Fallon. No time can be
made as there is erious danger of dismembering
the car, if care is not used in driving. Apart from
this the rest of the Lincoln Highway over which we
traversed is good traveling when dry. Why roads
are allowed to get into such disrepair I fail to see,
and why the business men cannot see that it is to
their advantage to keep them up, and in good
shape for travel. Surely the trade of the tourist
is worth appreciating, and such in any section of
the country is many times the small amount re-
quired in the upkeep of the roads, and where one
experiences trouble in getting over bad roads, he
will not fail in acquainting fellow travelers with the
condition of the road ahead, and when possible
an optional route is taken. And while on this
subject it is well to mention the lack of service and
system characteristic of many garages encountered
along the highways of all states. The sale of
gasoline and oil would seem to be the hardest work

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which they are willing to do. There is indeed much
room for systematization along this line of wTork,
for many of the men are incompetent and careless.
Then on the other hand, we have pleasant mem-
ories of other garages, where courtesy and skilled
workmanship were much in evidence. These are
the people to whom tourists will return in future,
and be sure of satisfaction.

One experience of much moment was ours, east
of Fallon between Salt Wells and Sand Springs, on
what is known as the eight-mile flat, forming part
of the Carson sink, where five hours of honest
toil were spent, extricating the car from the mud.
This flat is a peculiar piece of ground, being covered
at all times with about an inch of crusted salt,
resembling a blanket of snow, being white, but un-
derneath is very treacherous, and if one should
happen to leave the beaten track, trouble is in store,
for even in walking one's shoes will sink three or
four inches at each step. Only in keeping on the
beaten track can one feel secure in crossing, and
had wTe known this previously, much trouble might
have been avoided, but the time spent there was not
lost by any means, for wTe learned much of the
peculiarities of the soil beneath, which is supposed
to be influenced by an underground tide of some

[97]

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description ; certain it is that there is a great deal of
sub-surface moisture.

Our maiden efforts at extricating the car from
difficulty were futile, and troubles might have been
worse had we not had instructions as to the best
means of getting out, by one who confessed to having
been in the same predicament at least a dozen times,
and getting out to him was a science, accomplished
by jacking the wheels and building underneath
them a foundation of rock, the only kind near being
lava-rock, until, resting firmly on a level basis
with those on the opposite side, the car started
without further trouble, and once started, we did
not stop till landing safely on the other side. How-
ever, we noticed one car which had started to take
a short cut across, and knowing the occupants'
fate, if they continued, went back and helped
them out.

Eastgate was the objective point for that night,
where after a very hearty meal, made possible by
the exercise of the day, we turned in and enjoyed
an unusually good night's sleep. At Eastgate was
a wonderful example of the results of irrigation,
for situated in the desert as it is, it boasts of a
very fine truck garden, where are raised vegetables
of all kinds, and surrounded by large shade trees,

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make it a veritable oasis in the desert, by which
name it is known.

Going upgrade, we arrived in Austin at noon.
Continuing to Eureka, winding over hills and flats,
where are to be seen many diggings, or prospectors'
holes, large and small, all in the heart of a good min-
ing country. What fortunes and failures have
resulted in the search for gold and what romance,
one may conjure in regard to these places! Of
the town of Eureka this is especially true for there
the large iron doors and windows, the underground
passages, and the buildings, now dilapidated, make
clear the life and prosperity once enjoyed by this town.

The old mine at Eureka, now closed and deserted,
has paid in dividends something like seventy mil-
lions. All is now history and nothing remains
but scrap. Old Chinatown is peculiarly interesting,
and a relic of former davs, with its sidewalk con-
structed so that it rests on the top of old barrels.

On to Ely the road continues winding over
mountain ranges, none of which are difficult but
giving splendid views of the surrounding country.

Throughout this part of Nevada, one finds many
long stretches of uninhabited land which is the bug-
bear of many tourists, though at no time is it im-
possible to obtain water for the engine, but all

[101]

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water is not fit for drinking, so it is well to be sup-
plied with drinking water at all times.

Gasoline is also higher all along the way here,
which is not to be wondered at when one sees the
freighting teams of ten to sixteen horses and mules
used, all of which have to feed en route, and the
branch train service is not of the best.

At Ely, a live town, is located one of the largest
copper mines in existence at the present day. From
information given us by the superintendent, we
learned that fourteen pounds of copper to the ton
was the average production of this large pit, and
in the process of refining, about $30,000 worth
of the stuff was an absolute loss, per annum.

The Ely Auto Club are accomplishing much good
road work and are to be congratulated on their
achievement.

About fortv miles east of Elv, the Shelbourne
Pass was crossed, on the summit of which we camped
for the night.

Going through Overland Canyon, on the bed of a
creek, we first glimpsed the Great American Desert
ahead, which in appearance resembled a large white
lake, nestling close to the mountains of azure, the
contrast between which make a picture, never to
be forgotten.

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RAMBLES OX OVERLAND TRAILS

How very deceptive in appearance is the desert,
the great resemblance to water luring many a weary
traveler in earlier days, the days of search for water
in vain, lured by the mirage, only to die with parched
lips; such has been the fate of many, the world over.

Callao and Kearney's Ranch were soon passed,
the latter being a well-known stopping place for
travelers across the desert, and Fish Springs was
reached over a stretch of very poor road.

At Fish Springs we made the acquaintance of
Mr. Thomas, a man of benignity, now the pro-
prietor of the place, who was at one time a stage
driver. In the course of our conversation, he in-
formed us that the place was at one time a Wells
Fargo station, and had been honored by the pres-
ence of such men as Horace Greeley and Mark
Twain in their overland journeys.

The house, store and sleeping quarters nestle
closely together, and are a welcome sight to those
who have once been there, for Mr. Thomas, in
company with his bachelor cook, will see that all
are satisfied before leaving, and their efforts are
appreciated by all. There is always nice fresh water
in the cooler, hanging under the tree. This is
where there are stretches of from forty to sixty
miles without water of any kind.

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

Being a nice moonlight evening, we continued
on our way, for, from Fish Springs east, after skirt-
ing around the hills for some miles, the actual
crossing on the desert takes place, where good time
can be made for a number of miles, the ground being
level and smooth, but we noticed that some car
had crossed when it was muddy and soft, making a
deep rut which had dried, in which condition the trail
remains for the season. The evening drive was very
beautiful, revealing to us the magical beauties of a
desert sunset, where the shades and shadows formed
and faded until all was as one duskv hue, in the
formation of which distance played an important
part. Camp was pitched that night on the desert
sands, where it was difficult to find a spot solid enough
to drive the stakes, but finally managed to do so.

Orr's Ranch and Brown's Ranch were quickly
passed next morning and a short stay at Iosepa
was disappointing. This place is a Hawaiian village,
and being interested in these people, expected to
meet some of the natives there, but evidently they
were all at work as none were in sight except a few
children ; so continuing we arrived in Salt Lake City,
showing much the effects of having crossed the
desert. Were it not for the car, I doubt if our friends
would have recognized us.

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RAMBLES OX OVERLAND TRAILS

Having heard and read much of Mormonism,
Salt Lake proved interesting, unusually so, even
though time was limited, our information was stim-
ulated, and, I may say more accurate on leaving
than on our arrival.

The Temple, the Tabernacle, and grounds are
worthy of attention, even though there are differ-
ences of opinion as to what Mormonism really stands
for, in the pursuance of their creed. Being neither
a disciple nor an exponent, I shall not enter into a
discussion as to the influence exerted by their
teaching; but this is sure, great credit is due the
Mormons, who early emigrated to this section,
and the work performed by them in cultivating
and settling the district, then so barren and deso-
late. In the cultivation and irrigation of those
lands, they have built a monument, outlasting
all else. Many hardships were endured by them
in their efforts, but theirs was the kind that en-
dures, and so they live and prosper, at peace with
their neighbors of different sects.

The width of the streets, which present a very
comfortable appearance, together with the beauti-
ful shade trees, typical of all Mormon settlements,
make a city very much admired and attractive.

Xo visit to this part of the country is complete

[109]

RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

without an outing in the lake, to which we were no
exception, so with our bathing suits and the in-
evitable kodak, thither we went, but the kodak was
not permitted, the point of which we saw when the
professional asked us if we would not have our
pictures taken.

The lake is 22 per cent salt, so that a human
body will float without effort, and for those who
enjoy floating, this is the place. I may mention
that my first act on entering the water was to
duck my head, and as a result, it was a very long
time ere I could comfortably open my eyes.

The location of the lake has some bearing on the
original settlement of the Mormons there. History
says that Brigham Young, beholding the great
valley through Emigration Canyon, announced
that here would be a new Zion, in the memorable
words, "This is the place."

Leaving Salt Lake City we proceeded to Evanston
by way of Ogden, but not being fortunate in getting
an early start, were caught in a heavy rain storm
about ten o'clock that night, and with difficulty
reached Castle Rock, where, expecting to find a
town or settlement of some description, were dis-
appointed, and through the courtesy of the night
despatcher, we spent the night in a box-car, fitted

[110]

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RAMBLES OX OVERLAND TRAILS

up by him for living quarters, which was a welcome
relief from the prospect of spending the night in
the open, it being too wet to put up the tent.

By morning the rain had subsided, and not much
trace of it was left, as the ground dries very quickly,
proceeded to Evanston, where, being the Monday
after the Fourth of July, celebrations were being
held, and we now realized that the mining country
had been left behind, being displaced by ranching,
as evidenced by the nature of the celebration,
which consisted chieflv of cow-bo v performances.
From a distance of many miles they were assembled
here to perform on exhibition that which was part
of everyday life not so very long ago, and in their
chaps and silk shirts, made a very gay and festive
showing. Evidently they were enjoying themselves,
and providing much entertainment for those as-
sembled, to witness the performance.

Evanston to Rock Springs was through much deso-
late country, and Rock Springs was reached over a good
road from Green River in time to witness a display of
fireworks, closing event of the day. Around Rock
Springs is evidently much of the same class of
country, which does not even look like good ranching,
but from Rawlins east, a change is perceptible, which
is gradual, until very good ranching is soon seen.

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

Twent}T miles from Rawlins is crossed the "Devil's
Backbone," which is truly a sierra — a Spanish word
the meaning of which is a saw — projecting from and
rising above the ground like the fin of a fish, and
farther, the Divide is crossed, all of which are easy
grades.

On through Laramie to Cheyenne are good roads,
and midway is crossed the Continental Divide at
an altitude of 8,000 feet, on the top of which stands
a large monument, and where is also to be seen
large granite formation in the natural state. Leav-
ing the summit, Cheyenne is within easy reach.

Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming, built on a
broad open plain at an altitude of about 6,000
feet, old-time king of cow-towns, is heeding the
voice of progress and the day of the six-shooter is
over. The cowboys are gradually adopting other
methods of earning a living and ex-cowpunchers
are everywhere.

[114]

PART FOUR

H O M EWARD BOUND

Colorado

Kansas

Oklahoma

PART FOUR

Homeward Bound — Colorado, Kansas, and Oklahoma

CHANGING again the direction of travel and
going south with Colorado Springs as our ob-
jective point, we stopped at Greeley for lunch,
finding much of interest in this unique settlement,
the country adjacent to which is watered by the
South Platte and its various tributaries. Greeley,
a very progressive city, was founded about the year
1870, on ideals of the late Horace Greeley, and un-
like other communities founded on idealistic the-
ories, still survives. Here are located beet sugar
factories, which represent an investment of about
three million dollars, which take care of the im-
mense beet production of the surrounding country.

Continuing, we soon reached the "city of the
plains," scene of great mining activity, both former^
and now.

Denver is a very interesting city, historically
and commercially, and it will be a pleasure to
visit this city at some future time, when our minds
will not have been surfeited with so much previous
scenery, and objects of interest; so, not stopping
long, we reached Palmer Lake that night.

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

It was late when arriving at Pine Crest Inn; little
could be seen, but something seemed to whisper of
the mountains, sublime and grand, and with a
feeling of hearts content, we slept the night through,
awaking in the morning to behold the retreat,
the simple quietness that was there; and, peering
through the trees on the hillside, we could see the
many cottages and bungalows, all under the same
management, none of which are unoccupied during
the season. A wholesome breakfast, such as one
might expect on the farm, with everything fresh,
followed by a cool plunge in the natatorium, left
in us pleasant memories of our stay there.

Twenty miles of magnificent mountain scenery
is to be had on the drive from Palmer Lake to
Colorado Springs which, in conjunction with Colo-
rado City and Manitou, is one of the popular re-
sorts > of the country. The lovely drives around,
the trip to Pike's Peak, the Garden of the Gods,
Cripple Creek, and others, make this the center of
some of the most complete scenic trips possible.

Colorado Springs being very cosmopolitan, one
may find friends there from almost anywhere, all
seeking the variety of attractions.

The majestic altars of nature, visible from there,
rising high to the heavens, crowned with snow as if

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

to complete the beauties of nature, are nowhere
to be compared, and as twilight spreads her mantle
of haze, which reflects softly by moonlight, how
grand and sublime seem the domes, the great domes
of silence.

AYhat a medley of strange rock formations, can-
yons and mineral springs in this picturesque region
of wonder and charm; and, on climbing some of the
high points, there is stretched before them, rolling
far away to the east, the mighty plains, fertile and
grand, presenting a picture of wonderful color
formation, from the red clay to the green fields of
alfalfa, and the golden grain waving in its glory
as one mighty sea.

Pueblo, historic old spot, has been the camping
grounds of many notable expeditions into the western
country, and now an important manufacturing
center, from where we found the road east very
rough and uncomfortable, was passed through to
La Junta which we reached after going through
Rocky Ford, the place famed for its cantaloupes,
and watermelons, due to which there is a day set
aside as watermelon day.

La Junta to Syracuse and Dodge City was a
journey of two days, the roads being fair and yet
better than many over which we had traveled.

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

This section of the country is very rich in early
history.

At Las Animas, Colonel Pike first glimpsed the
famous peak that now bears his name. Conflicts
have taken place, in which have figured Americans,
Spaniards, French, Indians of many tribes, and citi-
zens of the Republic of Texas, which make it an
almost sacred ground, dear to the hearts of many.
It is not so very many years ago since traveling
over the trails was not very safe and attended with
danger, and not a day passed without reported
hostilities of some kind, whether by outlaws or
hostile Indians, it was all the same.

Fort Lyon, near Las Animas, used as a hospital
for consumptive soldiers, where Kit Carson was
brought during his last illness, in May, 1868,
dying from the rupture of an artery in the neck,
is named in honor of General Lyon, who fell in
the battle of Wilson's Creek, Missouri.

Dodge City, at one time a popular trading post
in buffalo hides and meat and one of the largest
shipping points for Texas cattle, near where is
Old Fort Dodge, established by General Dodge in
1864, was for ten years a government fort, when it
became a soldiers' home, where 275 veterans are
cared for by the state.

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RAMBLES OX OVERLAND TRAILS

East of Dodge City are Great Bend, Larned,
Pawnee Rock, and Kinsley, all of which we passed
going out from Hutchinson, and the ruins of old
Fort Zarah, of each of which there are tales of
adventure and frontier life to tell, and have been
visited by such men as Buffalo Bill, Kit Carson,
Generals R. E. Lee and Hancock.

From Dodge City, but a short run was necessary
to take us across the line into Oklahoma, and after
nine weeks' absence, we were almost at home once
more, with everybody feeling well and happy,
renewed in vigor both mentally and physically,
and the car none the worse for wear; among the
wheat-fields, the corn-fields, and the oil-fields, which
with the many derricks, dotted here and there, evi-
dence of prosperity, were good to see, and presented
once more a picture of the local resources, a change
from the wheat-fields of the plains of Kansas.

To all who can do so, let me presume to recom-
mend a trip in the open, the longer the better, as
an antidote to living indoors the year round, and
an interest taken in passing events will be justified
in the knowledge gained, of which no previous idea
had been maintained.

At some future time I look forward with pleasure
to a tour of California which will permit of more

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RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

thorough exploration of the beauties of that state.
For instance, the trip on El Camono Real, from
Mission to Mission, slowly, leisurely, becoming
acquainted with the beautiful legends and history
connected therewith, than with what is actually
to be seen at the present day, for in their history
lay the charm and romance which appeals to one so.

There is much to be seen in this great country
of ours, and those who think they know the United
States, have something more to learn, which is
reasoned by the fact, that the more one learns, the
less he knows; a paradoxical theory maintained
by many eminent scholars, who are untiring in
their efforts to learn.

In "Unguarded Gates," by Thomas Bailey
Aldrich, one will find, expressed in sentiment, the
wide range of varieties found in this great land of
America.

During the trip, the various sections, irrigating,
mining, ranching, dry-farming, oil-fields, fruit, and
timber lands, all so different one from the other,
and the various types of cacti, and wild flowers,
so different from what one might expect, from pre-
conceived ideas, all hold your attention and in-
terest. One of the prettiest flowers seen anywhere,
is the bloom of the cactus, varying in shade from

[124]

RAMBLES ON OVERLAND TRAILS

yellow to orange, contrasting as they do with the
dreary waste of sand and mesquite, of which so
much is seen.

Occasionally in the quiet of the evenings, a
reminiscence of the trip is indulged in, and a source
of pleasure derived therefrom, and a wistfulness
for other places comes in my mind, bringing to
mind the lines of Goldsmith:

But where to find that happiest spot below,
Who can direct, when all pretend to know.

So ends an account of our trip, a pleasant outing
of about six thousand miles, which being written
from memory, I hope will find a welcome among
readers and if, in the reading, one enjoys what I have
tried to write, then indeed I am satisfied and well re-
paid, for that was my idea in writing of this trip,
to bring home to the minds of my readers, some of
the grandeur and beauty, typical of the great out-of-
doors, of which I have always been an ardent admirer.

One word more in conclusion, I have been asked
many questions as to the effect of the sun and winds.
In view of the fact that we suffered no inconvenience
from sunburn, I may say that the delightful calm-
ness of the evening more than compensates for the
hot, dirty winds of the day.

[125]