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'OVER THE RANGE."

OVER THE RANGE

THE GOLDEN GATE.

A COMPLETE TOURISTS GUIDE

COLORADO, NEW MEXICO, UTAH, NEVADA, CALIFORNIA,

OREGON, PUGET SOUND AND THE

GREAT NORTH-WEST.

BY STANLEY WOOD.

-CHICAGO:

R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS, PUBLISHERS
1891

1889.

R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS, Tins LAKESIDE PRESS, CHTOAOO.

.t Library

PREFACE,

T is no light undertaking to prepare a guide book which shall
adequately describe the places of interest on the great trunk lines
between Denver on the hither side of the Rocky Mountains, San
Diego at the southern extremity of California, and Portland,
Seattle and Tacoma, the three commercial entrepots of the
Great Northwest. Yet such is the undertaking purposed. In a work of this
character fact must ever stand paramount to fancy, and lucidity of expression
take the precedence. No attempt will be made at "fine writing;" every effort
will be made to state just such facts as the traveler would like to know, and
to state these facts in clear and explicit language.

The country traversed is most interesting, abounding in scenes of the
greatest variety, from the broad and billowy expanses of the boundless prairie
to the rugged grandeur of the American Alps, from the picturesque quaintness
of New Mexico and the nomadic wildness of the Indian reservations to the
polished civilization of metropolitan cities. There is no journey which can be
taken on the continent of North America that presents so much of interest
to the tourist, and which can be taken with such a comparatively moderate
outlay of time and money, as the one described in the following pages. New
Mexico, Colorado, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory ! What
a field for investigation, investment or pleasure ! These are the lands of
gold, of stiver, of coil, of agriculture, of all fruits known to the temperate
and sub-tropical zones These are the lands of new endeavors, of fresh
impulses, and for these reasons are of special interest to tourists business
men and seekers after health and pleasure. Aside from the interesting char-
acter of the subject discussed, there is also a special value in the work now
presented to the reader, inasmuch as great care has been taken to gather
information that shall be found statistically accurate. In a work of this char-
acter it is difficult to combine accurate information with matters of general
interest in such a way that neither shall have an undue prominence. The
\\riter has endeavored to attain this desirable medium. One thing is certain,
nothing in this book is venal in its character. The opinions here expressed
are those of the writer; the descriptions of scenes given here are reproductions
of the feelings inspired by those scenes. There has been no bias in any direc-
tion. On the contrary, every effort has been made to write judicially and, at
the same time, retain the enthusiasm which the traveler naturally feels in
beholding new sights and sceres.

In order that no element of information may be lacking, carefully prepared
tables of statistics have been given a place in this volume, and the reader is
respectfully requested to make use of these tables because much of value has
been condensed into this convenient form

By the aid of the tables referred to. and by frequent reference to the
three excellent maps herein given, the tourist will be able to gain an exceptionally

PRRFACE. 7

clear idea of the journey he is making, and of the characteristics of the
country through which he is passing.

As another aid to the traveler abundant illustrations have been prepared,
which will give the purchaser of this book an idea of what he may expect to
see ; and which, after he has beheld these places, will serve as a reminder of
those pleasant scenes which by their assistance can never fade from his
memory.

It has been the endeavor of the writer to meet as nearly as possible the
wants of all classes of travelers. Information of value to the tourist for
pleasure, the health seeker, the sportsman and the man of business, will be
found in the pages of this book. Nothing has been written in the interests of
any clique or class. The truth, and nothing but the truth, has been told. If
there are errors they are such as must necessarily occur in the compilation of
a work covering such a vast extent of territory. Accuracy has been aimed at,
and as a whole, the writer can vouch for the accuracy of what will be found
herein. The book is one written in the field and not in the study. Facts are
not taken at second hand. The author writes of what he saw with his own
eyes, and not what he read. The statistics have been gathered from authentic
sources, and have been condensed into the most compact and convenient form.
Hoping the book may prove a useful companion to the traveler, it is submitted
without further comment to the public.

FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO DENVER.

HE Missouri River has come to be regarded in a general
way, as the boundary line between the East and the West,
although, in truth, the terms east and west are extremely
elastic in their application. However, for the purposes of
this book we will consider that all on the sundown side of
the Missouri River is West, and that the traveler has reached
one of the three great entrepots to this vast country and
finds himself in Omaha, St. Joseph or Kansas City. From
either of these thriving cities the journey to Denver can
be taken by way of first class transportation lines provided
£•/ .-.»:; - with all the modern conveniences and luxuries.

From Omaha one has choice of the Burlington route
and the Union Pacific, and from Kansas City one can travel by either of the
above lines with an additional choice -between the Missouri Pacific, the Rock
Island, or the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. With Chicago or St.
Louis as the initial point one can go direct by any of the trunk lines to the
Missouri River and continue his journey to Denver over his choice among the routes
mentioned above.

The trip across the great plains from the Missouri River to Denver is full of
interest and variety to one who beholds this vast expanse for the first time.
Nothing can give such a vivid impression of the greatness of our country, and
the adventurous character of our people, as the sight of these boundless prairies
and the habitations of the hardy pioneers who are rapidly turning the buffalo sod
and exposing the rich black soil to the fertilizing action of the sun and air, and
substituting for nature's scant forage, abundant harvests of corn and wheat. The
railroads for a distance of three or four hundred miles to the west of the Missouri
River, pass through thriving cities to which a comparatively thickly settled agri-
cultural country is tributary. Then the newer territory is reached, the towns are
of less frequent occurrence and smaller in size, the plains appear more nearly in their
native state, only dotted here and there with the claim cabins of the settlers. As
fhe traveller looks out of the car window across the billowy expanse, he sees herds
of cattle and sheep, grazing on the rich bunches of buffalo grass, and occasionally he
will catch a glimpse of the flying form of an antelope disappearing over the brow
of a distant rise of land Not uninteresting are the prairie dog villages with their
preternaturally grave inhabitants sitting on their haunches like diminutive kan-
garoos, and the writer has seen a whole car load of people filled with the most
pleasurable excitement over the efforts of a jack rabbit to outspeed the iron horse.
With these and many other novel and interesting sights the time is whiled away

TO THE (;o/./)/-:.v GATE. 11

until some traveler, more experienced, or more sharp of sight, suddenly cries out
" The Mountains ! " There is a rush to his side of the car and everybody gazes
earnestly, and amidst eager exclamations and doubting comments the blue of the
sky is at last disintegrated from the blue of the mountains, and the most skeptical
at length acknowledges that the stain of ultramarine, with its undulating sweep
against the western horizon is really the distance-enchanted range of the Rocky
Mountains. Soon patches of fleecy white appear, and with a sigh of disappoint-
ment the traveler decides that the clouds are dropping down and will soon shut
out the view of those "sentinels of enchanted land," but gazing more intently, it
dawns upon the mind at last that those glimmering expanses are not veils of cloud,
but are in fact mountain fields of everlasting snow ! The Snowy Range has at last
declared itself, and from this moment until the trans-continental journey shall have
been accomplished, the traveler will have the immediate memory or the intimate
presence of the mountains with him continually.

The view of the Rocky Mountains, which the traveler gains on approaching
Denver from the east is one of unsurpassed beauty, and that this statement may
not rest on the dictum of this book, let us take the testimony of the greatest
traveler, and the most graceful descriptive writer America has yet produced.
Bayard Taylor says : — " I know no external picture of the Alps that can be placed
beside it. If you take away the valley of the Rhone, and unite the Alps of Savoy
with the Bernese Overland, you might obtain a tolerable idea of this view of the
Rocky Mountains. Pike's Peak would then represent the Jungfrau, a nameless
snowy giant in front of you, Monta Rosa and Long's Peak, Mount Blanc. The
altitudes very nearly correspond, and there is a certain similarity in forms. The
average height of the Rocky Mountains, however, surpasses that of the Alps.
* * * From this point there appears to be three tolerably distinct
ranges. The first rises from two to three thousand feet above the level of the
plains, is cloven asunder by the canons of the streams, streaked with the dark lines
of the pine, which feather its summits and with sunny, steep slopes of pasture.
Some distance behind it appears a second range, of nearly double the height, more
irregular in its masses, and of a dark velvety violet hue. Beyond, leaning against
the sky, are the snowy peaks, all of which are from thirteen to (nearly) fifteen
thousand feet above the sea. These three chains, with their varying but never
discordant undulations, are as inspiring to the imagination as they are enchanting
to the eye. They hint of concealed grandeurs in all the glens and parks among
them, and yet hold you back with a doubt, whether they can be more beautiful
near at hand than when beheld at this distance."

The doubt so gravely expressed in the last sentence of our quotation, the
traveler, when he shall have taken the trans-continental tour, will be fully able to
resolve for himself. He will have beheld a bewildering variety of beauty, and in
the quiet evenings at home, he will find material for the most exquisite enjoyment
of pleasing reminiscence and reverie.

With such an approach, Denver must needs be something more than ordinary
not to strike the traveler as a discord in the grand harmony of the scene. It is a
fact, and it is a pleasure for the writer to record it, that Denver is never a dis-
appointment. What its peculiar charms may be, and how it appears to the
stranger within its gates, will be described in the succeeding chapter.

VIE.W OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS, DENVER.

NEW POST-OFFICE.

OITY MAUL.

ARAPAMO COUNTY COUHT-HOU >t.

U. S. BRANCH MINT.

FROM DENVER TO PUEBLO.

DENVER,

Capital of Colorado.

Population, I 10, (>()().
Elevation, 5,195 feet.

There are only a few cities in the world that
please at first sight. Denver is one of this favored
few. The liking one gets for Boston, Philadelphia or
London is an acquired taste, but one falls in love at
once with Paris, Denver or San Francisco. It
does not follow that because the cities mentioned
are immediately pleasing, they must of necessity
resemble each other, any more than that a peach, an
apple or an orange should have a similar flavor.

We like the fruit and we like the cities without having to learn to like them, but
not for the same reasons. One feels a sense of exhilaration in the atmosphere of
Denver. The grand view of the Snowy Range of mountains to the north and west
and the broad expanse of horizon- bounded plains to the east and south
exalt the spirits, the bland but bracing breezes cool the fevered pulse and the
abundant oxygen of the air thrills one like a draught of effervescing champagne.
A beautiful city, beautifully situated is Denver, with broad tree-shaded streets,
along each side of which flow streams of sparkling water, necessary to the growth
of vegetation in a country where the annual rainfall is less than fifteen inches, with
public buildings of massive proportions and attractive architecture, with
residences erected in accordance with the canons of good taste, with innumerable
iawns of shaven grass, ornamented with shrubs and flowers, with charming suburbs
and an outlying country, studded with fertile farms and flowering or fruiting
orchards, peace is within her dwellings and plenty within her palaces. Denver
has now seventeen railroads, two cable roads constructed, three motor lines, one
circle 01 belt railroad, sweeping around the southwestern segment of the city's cir-
cumference, and thirty-two miles of first-class street railway, which is being rap-
idly replaced by the extension of the cable road. The town is lighted by gas and
electricity, has paid fire and police departments, and obtains its water from moun-
tain sources by means of Holly works, and from over 300 artesian wells varying in
depth from 350 to 1,600 feet. The public buildings, exclusive of churches and
schools, cost $4,000,000. The real estate belonging to the city is worth $2,000,-
ooo, the bonded debt is only $400,000 and the assessed valuation of Denver is
$37,500,000. The commerce of Denver is now annually not less than one hundred
millions of dollars. Denver is situated at the junction of Cherry Creek and the
Platte River, and in addition to being the Capital of the State, is the county seat of
Arapahoe County. All the railroads which enter Denver land their passengers at
the Union Depot, a massive and handsome edifice of native stone. The street
leading from the main entrance of the station up town is Seventeenth Street, and
on this just outside of the depot park is situated the central station of the City Street
Railway Co. All the main lines of cars centre here, and should the traveler wish
to reach some place in town by this means, a word of inquiry of the agent in the
waiting room will elicit full information as to which line to take. The street and

FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, DENVER.

TO THE GOLDEN' GATE. 15

cable cars pass directly by the leading hotels and radiate to all points of the city.
On the town- ward side of the Union Depot are the carriage stands, and if arrange-
ments for transportation have not already been made on the train, with the carriage
company's agent, before reaching the city, a carriage can be engaged here. Prices
are regulated by ordinance and extortion prohibited by law. There are many
objects of interest to see in Denver : The smelters, the public buildings, the Grand
Opera House — which is the handsomest in the world with the sole exception of the
Grand Opera House in Paris, — the system of irrigation, the magnificent private

ARAPAHOE COUNTY COURT HOUSE, DENVER.

residences, the homes of mining princes and cattle barons, the lovely suburbs and
the United States Military Post. The hotel accommodations of Denver are prob-
ably the most complete of any city of its population in the country. There are six
first-class hotels provided with all modern improvements, to say nothing of some
forty odd less pretentious ones. A day, or better two days, can be profitably spent
in Denver, and then refreshed and rested from the long ride across the plains from
the Missouri River or beyond, the tourist is ready to resume his trans-continental
journey. If he wishes to behold the wonders of nature and to get a familiar
^yquaintance with the grandeur of the mountains, he will take the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad, which by universal acclaim has been designated " The Scenic
Line of the World."

Seated in a comfortable car, whose large windows give an excellent outlook

OVER THE RANGE.

on the scenery, the traveler is ready and anxious to be off. The busy Union
Depot may amuse him for a moment, but anticipation of the wonders in store makes
him impatient of delay. Soon the conductor gives the signal to the engineer, the
inevitable late passenger is seen chasing the rear end of the Pullman out of the
depot, and whether he catches it or not, one thing is assured, the journey to the
Pacific Coast has begun, and from this time on the eye and mind will both find
plenty to do in noting and recording- Nature's most marvelous works. The first
stop is made at

Hiirnhuin. The station for the suburb of West Denver and the site of
the great shops of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The buildings of the
machine shops cover an area of five acres and were erected at a cost of $300,000.
(Distance from Denver, 2 miles.)

Overland Park is a pleasant suburb to the southwest of Denver, and
is supplied with one of the best race courses in the west. It is a fashionable resort

COLORADO'S STATE CAPITOL BUILDING, DENVER.

and connected with Denver by the suburban train service of the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad.

Petersburg is a small town surrounded by farms, market gardens and
plats laid out as additions to Denver. (Distance from Denver, 8 miles.) To
the west, 2>£ miles distant, lies the United States Military Post.

Military Post. A ten company post of United States troops has been
here established, and has become the centre of great interest. The quarters are
elegant and substantial, consisting of handsome brick edifices. The parade ground
is ample in proportions, and no expense has been spared to make this Post a model
of its kind. The military band gives frequent concerts, and the citizens of Denver
take great interest in and make frequent excursions to the Post. The Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad has established a very complete suburban train service for the
accommodation of the Post, and the public, which is largely patronized.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 17

Littleton is prettily situated on the east bank of the Platte River, is the
centre of a good agricultural country, and is destined to be the location of the
suburban residences of many of Denver's best citizens. Alrdady an adequate sub-
urban train service has been inaugurated for the convenience of persons having
country homes at this delightful spot. (Population, 300 Distance from Denver,
10 miles. Elevation, 5,372 feet.)

Acequia. A small station for the accommodation of ranchmen. Here
the High Line Canal, one of those great irrigating ditches characteristic of Colorado,
crosses the track and takes its winding way to the northeast over the rolling plains,
having under its fertilizing power at least a hundred thousand acres of otherwise
arid land. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 17 miles. Elevation,
5 ,530 feet.)

Sedalia. A little village. Home market and post office for cattle growers
and ranchmen. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 25 miles. Elevation,
5,835 feet.)

Castle Rock. The town takes its name from a peculiar upthrust of
rock on the summit of a conical hill, resembling, in the distance, an old martelle
tower, and nearer by an irregular pentagonal structure. Under the shadow of this
hill and surmounting tower lies the town, which is a pretty village and the county
seat of Douglas County. Fine quarries of red sandstone are worked here, and
pastoral industries contribute to the prosperity of the town. (Population, 300.
Distance from Denver, 33 miles. Elevation, 6,219 feet.)

Douglas. A station near which are stone quarries and grazing lands,
(Population, nominal. Distance from Deuver. 35 miles. Elevation, 6,323 feet.)

Between Douglas and Palmer Lake are the small stations of Glade, Larkspur
and Greeland.

Perry Park is reached by stage from Larkspur station. This park abounds
in curious formations of red sandstone ; is watered by sparkling brooks and is
destined to become one of the most popular resorts near Denver.

As the train rolls into the station the
traveler sees to his left a beautiful little lake
cradled in the hills. Along the shore has been
placed a handsome cut stone embankment, and a

PALMER LAKE.

Health and Pleasure

Resort.

Population, 150.
Distance from Denver,

neat and tasteful boat house has been erected and
well stocked with boats. The lake is a natural
body of water, though the fact that a fountain

plays in its centre, casting a jet of water to the
Elevation, 7,237 feet. height of go feet( ]eads many tQ suppose that Jt fe

Eating station. entirely artificial. Palmer Lake in addition to

being a place of great beauty, is a natural curiosity,

poised as it is, exactly on the summit of the " divide," a spur of the outlying
range of the Rockies extending eastward into the great plains and from the crest of
this summit the waters divide flowing northward into the Platte, which empties
into the Missouri, and southward into the Arkansas as it wends its way to the
Mississippi. Red roofed picturesque cottages nestle" here and there among the
hills, gayly painted boats float gracefully upon the bright blue waters, and on either
hand rugged peaks, pine clad and broken by castellated rocks, rise into a sky
whose cerulean hue is reflected in the placid waters of the lake. Excellent hotel
and livery establishments furnish good ' accommodations for sojourners.

Glen Park, an assembly ground modeled after the famous Chautauqua,
and destined to become equally as popular in the West as its prototype in the
2

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 19

East, is only half a mile beyond Palmer Lake. Objects of natural interest are
abundant and the walks and drives to Glen D'Eau, Bellview Point, Ben Lomond,
the Arched Rocks and the canons and glens adjacent afford material for enjoyment
in the seeing and for many pleasant memories. One hundred and fifty acres are
comprised in the town site. The Park is at the foot of the Rocky Mountain Range,
and is sheltered at the rear by a towering cliff 2,000 feet high, and on the two sides
by small spurs of the range. A noble growth of large pines is scattered over the
Park. A skillful landscape engineer has taken advantage of every natural beauty
and studied the best topographical effect, in laying out the streets, parks, reservoirs,
drives, walks, trails and lookout points. It is a spot that must be seen to be
appreciated, and every visitor, whose opinion has been learned, has come away
captivated. There are building sites for all tastes. Some have a grand lookout,
taking in a sweep of the valley for a distance of 50 miles, with the fountain in
Palmer Lake and the beautiful lake itself in full view. Elephant Rock, Table
Mountain, the town of Monument, the railroad trains from both ways for over half
an hour before reaching the station can be seen. Others have pretty vistas, partly
hidden by the pine branches, promises, so to speak ot grand views, but not so
ambitious as the first. Still others are sylvan nooks where the shades are deepest
and the murmur of the cool waters of the babbling brooks makes music forever.

Monument. • The five miles ride from Palmer Lake to Monument is in-
teresting. On the left are giant upthrusts of brilliant red rocks castelated in shape
and reaching an altitude of two and three hundred feet. The town takes its name
from the creek which flows near, and the creek is so designated from the curious
monumental forms of rock along its course. To the right is the Front Range of
the Rockies, which the road parallels from Denver to Pueblo, and near the centre
of this stretch of one hundred and twenty miles, stands Pike's Peak. Agriculture
and pastoral industries are tributary to Monument. (Population, 200. Distance
from Denver. 56 miles. Elevation, 6,974 feet.)

Two miles beyond is Borst, and four miles further Husted, both mere side
tracks for convenient shipping of cattle and produce.

Monument Park is reached by private conveyance from Edgerton Sta-
tion— distance from Denver, 67 miles. This valley is quite remarkable for the very
fantastic forms into which the action of air and water through long reaches of
time, have worn the sandstone rocks, forming grotesque groups of figures that
very generally keep their broad brimmed sombreros, formed of iron stained
cap-rock. Visitors to Monument Park obtain a fine view of Pike's Peak
and Cheyenne Mountain Range. A hotel in the Park is open at all times
for the accommodation of guests, and can furnish saddle-horses and carriages
on premises. The grotesque groups of figures into which the cream-colored
sandstone rocks have been worn, some of them resembling human forms
and have been given quaint, descriptive titles, viz.: Dutch Wedding, Quaker
Meeting, Lone Sentinel, Dutch Parliament, Vulcan's Anvil and Workshop, Romeo
and Juliet, Necropolis or Silent City, The Duchess, Mother Judy and Colonnade;
all of these and many others too numerous to mention are within easy walking
distance to " The Pines." The Park is a favorite resort and has comfortable
accommodations for guests. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 6)
miles. Elevation, 6,354 feet.)

TO THE GOLDEhT GATE.

COLORADO SPRINGS,

Residence City and
Health Resort.

Population, 1O.OOO.

Distance from Denver,
75 miles.

Elevation, 5,982 feet.

Many of the most influential business men of
Colorado have their reside .ce in Colorado Springs.
No more delightful home city can be found than
this. Mansions and cottages of the highest archi-
tectural beauty abound, and the society is composed
of cultivated and wealthy people.

The town was originally laid out as a health
resort, and while it still maintains its superiority
in this respect, has grown beyond that single
characteristic, and is now a thriving commercial
place, in addition to being a favorite residence city. The town is sheltered on the
west by the range of mountains with Pike's Peak in the centre, on the east by
bluffs, on the north by the spur of the mountains called the " Divide," and on the
southwest by Cheyenne Mountain. The streets are unusually wide, one hundred
feet, and the avenues are 160 feet broad. Trees line both sides of the streets, and
on Nevada avenue, the central street of the city, there are six rows of trees, two
on each side and two down the centre. Water
for irrigation is brought into the town by
means of a winding canal, and cold, clear
water, for domestic uses, is conducted from
mountain sources in iron pipes The press-
ure is such that no fire engines are necessary,
the water being forced from hydrants to
the tops of the tallest buildings. Monument
Creek flows west of the town, and the Fon-
taine qui Bouille to the south, where the two
streams form a junction. The scenery
around Colorado Springs is of a very interest-
ing and attractive character. The hotels of
Colorado Springs are noted for their excel-
lence; special attention being paid to the
entertainment of tourists. There are ample
accomm dations and of different grades to
suit all tastes and pockets. The Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad has a very handsome
stone depot, erected in accordance with good
taste and correct architecture. The plains to
the east and the mountains to the west give
unlimited variety. Cheyenne Canon, Aus-
tin's Bluffs, Crystal Park, Cameron's Cone,
Monument Park and Manitou, with its en-
virons, are all within the radius of nine miles.
Cheyenne Mountain, it is im-
possible to contemplate the grandeur of Cheyennne's bold outline and great mass-
iveness, and to become in the least familiar with its ever-varying play of light and
shadow, without acknowledging the striking beauty of this noble mountain. From
Colorado Springs a superb view of its front is seen. Looking at the mountain it
will be observed that at almost the nearest point, in reality four miles distant, the
base of the mountain is detply cleft by two yawning chasms, the outer rocks of
which present sharp, jagged points. These clefts are, respectively, the North and
South Cheyenne Canons. They certainly should be visited by every traveler who

RAINBOW

TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 23

has an eye for the beautiful. On the eastern side of Cheyenne Mountain, and
accessible from South Cheyenne Canon, is the grave of the well-known author and
poet, " H.II." The direct road from Manitou lakes the tourist a distance of eight
miles, turns off to the southward from the road to Colorado Springs, on the top of
the hill half a mile from the town; they can also be reached by making a detour
of one and a half miles through Colorado Springs, and following the continuation
of Nevada avenue to the southward. Either road is pleasant, and the drive or
ride is one replete with interest, and abounding in attractive scenery.

Colorado City. This town, once the seat of the state capital, is two
miles west of Colorado Springs, on the Manitou branch of the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad. The town gave promise of becoming an important city during the
early days of its capitalship, but when the state government was removed to
Denver, Colorado City languished, and soon sunk to the condition of a mere rural
hamlet. This state of affairs lasted for a long series of years until property
held only a nominal value. Recently, however, the advent of another railroad,
the erection of shops, and the introduction of new industries awoke the town, and
an era of great growth and improvement has set in. Holders uf property have
become rich, and the " old town,'' as it was called, is one of the most thriving in
the state. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 78 miles. Elevation,
6,110 feet.)
^ _^__^____ The one resort °f all the West is certainly

Manitou. The attractions of this watering place
1 have secured for it fame, and fame secures for it

Watering Place,
Mineral Springs
and Health Resort.

largely increasing patronage each year. No resort
has had a more rapid growth than this, and none

has more truly deserved its prosperity. There are
Population, 1,OOO.

more places of extraordinary interest to visit in the

Distance from Denver, vicinity of Manitou than can be found contiguous
to any other resort in the world. It is situated six

Elevation, 6,324 feet. mj]es from Colorado Springs, immediately at the

foot of Pike's Peak. Here are the famous efferves-
cent soda and iron springs which in an early day gave the name of " Springs " to
the town of Colorado Springs. A branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
unites the two places, over which trains run daily with sufficient frequency to
accommodate the most exacting. There are a thousand ways in which to enjoy
oneself in Manitou. A favorite pleasure is that of riding. The saddle horses are
excellent. Comfortable saddles for ladies and well trained horses are furnished by
all the livery stables at reasonable prices. A burro (donkey) brigade is a feature
for the special benefit of the children, a careful guide taking the little ones for a
ride every morning. Carriage riding and excursions on foot are excellent means of
diversion. Following is a partial list of places of interest near Manitou, with the
distance in miles from town attached :

Manitou Grand Caverns i

Cave of the Winds .._ : _.. i

Ute Pass and Rainbow Falls _ i^

Red Canon 3

Crystal Park 3

Garden of the Gods 3

Glen Eyrie _ 5

Monument Park, by trail _. _. 7]^

by carriage 9

TO THE GOLDEX GATE.

Seven Lakes, by horse trail g

" " by carriage road 25

North Cheyenne Canon Sl/2

South Cheyenne Canon 9

Summit of Pike's Peak 12

In addition to these well-known localities there are scores of canons, caves,
water-falls and charming nooks which the sojourner for health or pleasure can
seek out for himself. The village is thronged with visitors throughout the sum-
mer months ; it is somewhat cooler and less dry than Colorado Springs in the
summer, and warmer in winter. The springs all contain more or less soda and
some iron. They are pe-
culiarly adapted for the dys-
pepsia of the consumptive,
and the Ute Iron Spring is
especially remarkable for its
blood-making qualities. For
the pleasure-seeker and the
invalid, Manitou is one of
the most satisfactory resorts
in the State. During the
season the hotels are rilled
with guests from all parts of
the Union. Society is rep-
resented by many of its best
people, the evenings are
made merry with hops and
social gatherings, and the
days delightful with drives
and rides and walks among
the myriad of attractions
this place affords.

PIKE'S PEAK

Colorado's Landmark.

Elevation,
14,147 feet.

Before Colorado had
acquired a name, Pike's
PeaV was the landmark of
the Indian, the trapper and
the explorer. In later times
it was the beacon by which
the adventurous gold hunt-
ers steered their prairie
schooners into the wonderful
and mysterious west ; now it
has become the goal of those

THE SEVEN FALLS, CHEYENNE CANON,

TO THE GOLDEN GA TE. 27

in search of the grand and beautiful in Nature, the enjoyments of an attractive
summer resort, or the restoration of impaired health. The mountain is one of
great beauty, easy of ascent and never entirely discrowned of snow. To any one
accustomed to mountain climbing no guide is required in making the ascent of
Pike's Peak, as the trail is good and well-defined, and there is a government station
on the summit, where visitors can obtain food and shelter. Three members of the
United States Signal Service Corps live on the Peak all the year round, and are in
constant telegraphic communication with Colorado Springs and Washington. The
telegraph poles for the most part closely follow the trail. At the end of the
Ruxton Glen road is a toll gate, and here the ascent of the Peak begins. For three
miles the trail closely follows Ruxton Creek, generally at an elevation of two or
three hundred feet above it ; the sides of the Glen are clothed with beautiful pines
and spruces. Close to the creek the familiar bunches of red berries characteristic
of the mountain ash may here and there be greeted, as old friends in a strange
land. Some very pretty falls are passed on the way, two of which are named
respectively, the Shelter and the Minnehaha. Stupendous granite boulders are in
places piled up in chaotic confusion over the stream, frequently hiding it from
view. Two prominent ones are plainly visible from Manitou, and are appropriately
named Gog and Magog. One of the most charming features during the first three
miles of the ascent is the opportunity afforded for exquisite views of the world
below, on looking back through the pine trees with the far-stretching plains
glowing in the sun and forming a golden horizon. It goes without saying that
the view from the summit is grand beyond description. Within the current year
the visitor to Manitou will in all probability be able to continue his journey by rail
from the latter point straight up Pike's Peak to its summit, a height of 14, 147 feet
above the level of the sea. The Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway Company have
under construction a line to the summit similar to the cog rail line on Mount Wash-
ington. This will be the most direct route, estimated length, 8 miles.

Fountain. A pretty little town on the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek, four-
teen miles south of Colorado Springs. The town has taken a new growth within
the past year, and being surrounded by a good grazing and agricultural country,
has a fair prospect of permanent improvement. (Population, 200. Distance from
Denver, 88 miles. Elevation, 5,568 feet.)

There are between Fountain and Pueblo, side-track stations as follows: Buttes,
Wigwam, Pinon, Cactus and Nada. These places are useful to the railroad and
convenient for the residents of the surrounding country, but they possess little or
no interest for the traveler. All the way from Denver to Pueblo the traveler has the
Front Range of mountains on his right, to the west, while on his left are the great
plains. Below Colorado Springs the country is very fertile, and good crops are
grown wherever water for irrigation can be procured. Water is scarce, however,
and only a small part of the land is under cultivation.

" The Pittsburgh of the West " is a title often
conferred on Pueblo, and it is the name which
pleases its citizens best, and which comes the

PUEBLO,

Commercial and

Manufacturing City.
Population, 25,OOO.

Distance from Denver,
120 miles.

Klevation, 4,667 feet.
Dining Station.

nearest to expressing the salient characteristics of
the town. It is a live city, full of enterprise and
push, and it has been favored by Nature, both in
the matter of its immediate situation and of its sur-
roundings. Plenty of coal is found not fifty miles
away, iron ore is not more distant, and on the mesa,
just south of the town, is Bessamer, the site of

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 20

the Colorado Coal and Iron Works, one of the largest plants of this character in the
world. There are also many great smelters for the reduction of gold and silver
ores together with a large number of manufactories, planing mills, flouring mills,
machine shops, etc. The city of Pueblo, is surrounded by great stretches of
rich agricultural land, which in places here and there is under a high state of
cultivation. But it is only here and there that cultivation shows its elevating work.
Tourists wonder at this, and cannot divine why, if the land is rich, it should lie
fallow and uncultivated. The answer is easy to find. All this land is arid. Crops
will not grow without water, and the rains of heaven are not half copious enough
to promote the growth of vegetation. Where the land is watered by irrigation it is
as fertile as the valley of the Nile, where it is not irrigated it is nearly as sterile as
the desert of Sahara. This condition of affairs will not long remain. Storage reser-
voirs to conserve the winter and spring rainfall and snow deposits are in contempla-
tion, also a series of great canals to be taken from the Arkansas river to carry
the water on to the waiting land. In the mean time this uncultivated
country, which appears so barren, supports tens of thousands of sheep and
cattle. The short, dry crisp, curled buffalo grass, which looks about as
succulent as shavings, actually contains great nutritive qualities, and if
cattle or sheep can get enough of it they grow fat and command the highest
price in the markets. Pastoral and agricultural interests contribute to Pueblo's
prosperity, five trunk lines of railroad centre here, and manufactories increase the
business of the town. Many people of great wealth make Pueblo their home and
do business here. Handsome mansions, pretty cottages, large business blocks, and
fine stocks of all kinds of merchandise testify to the good taste and enterprise of
Pueblo's citizens. It is admitted on all sides that this must of necessity become
the leading manufacturing town between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast,
and the manufacturers in the East who contemplate extending or removing their
works, are now carefully studying the resources of Pueblo. Pueblo is well pro-
vided with hotels, one of them representing an expense of $250,000 in its erection.
All grades of excellence can be found among the hostelries, and the traveler will
find no difficulty in securing accommodations suited to his tastes. Through Pueblo,
the traveler passes to reach Santa Fe, Espanola, Durango and Silverton on the south,
Leadville, Glenwood Springs and Aspen on the northwest, or Canon City, Salida,
Gunnison, Montrose, Ouray, Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, and Ogden on the
west, en route to San Francisco.

Parnassus Springs. A pleasant drive of twelve miles, southwest of
Pueblo, takes us to Parnassus Springs, among the foot hills of the Greenhorn
Mountains. These waters — muriated alkaline— have been tested with marked
benefit, especially in cases characterized as gastric complaints.

Carlile Spring's are situated twenty miles above Pueblo, on the Arkansas
river. These purgative alkaline waters are as yet unimproved, but give good
promise of becoming popular on account of their medicinal qualities.

Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring. This celebrated spring in the
suburbs of Pueblo, has recently been improved by the erection of a large bath
house, fitted up with all the latest improvements and conveniences for bathing.

PUEBLO TO OGDEN.

IROM Denver to Pueblo, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles,
the traveler has followed the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains
and kept his course mainly to the south At Pueblo, however, he
turns his face westward, and this will be his outlook, in the main,
until he finds himself standing on the shore of the Pacific Ocean,
watching the descent of the sun into the wilderness of waters. The country be-
tween Pueblo and Florence is fine agricultural land, being the bottoms of the
Arkansas River, up whose course the railroad follows until Salida is reached,
ninety-seven miles from Pueblo. Back from the river rise high buttes of sand-
stone worn into fantastic shapes by the action of the elements. Banded with a
great variety of colors and dotted here and there by groups of pines, the scene is
one of much interest and adds an element of variety to the journey, which is ex-
ceedingly grateful to the traveler. The river bottoms are irrigated by means of
ditches taken from the river, and the result is crops of marvelous growth and yield.
One interesting and peculiar feature is the frequent occurrence of the ancient
Egyptian water wheels suspended in the current of the Arkansas. This method
of securing water for irrigation is rarely observed in Colorado. This valley of the
Arkansas is also a good fruit country, and grapes and apples grow in abundance and
of fine quality.

Florence. This town is in the centre of the coal oil fields of Colorado.
Glancing from the car window the traveler will here see the tall derricks of the well
machinery and the tanks for storing, together with the tank cars for transporting
the oil. There are between thirty and forty wells already in operation and more
are being sunk. The oil is used for lubrication and fuel, and gives the best of
satisfaction. Florence is a growing town and a pretty one, surrounded by an at-
tractive country. (Population, 1,000, Distance from Denver, 152 miles. Eleva-
tion, 5,199 feet.)

Coal Creek Branch. A branch line of the Denver & Rio Grande Rail-
road runs from Florence to Coal Creek, a distance of six miles, where excellent
and extensive coal mines are in operation. This line is one of great commercial
importance, opening one of the most extensive coal fields in the state.

Coal Creek is at the terminus of this branch of the line. It is well supplied
with stores and shops of all kinds and does a thriving business. (Population,
1,500. Distance from Denver, 155 miles. Elevation, 5,360 feet.)
^ ,^^^^— This city is rightly named, for it stands at the

entrance to the greatest canon penetrated by any
railroad. The Grand" Canon of the Arkansas is ac-
knowledged by a universal consensus of opinion to
be one of the great wonders of the world. The
Arkansas River, which rises in Fremont Park, one

CANON CITY,

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

Business Centre.

hundred and seventy-five miles to the northwest of
Canon City, here breaks its way through the Front
Range of mountains and enters upon its uneventful
course to the Mississippi. The town is one of the
31

OVER THE RANGE.

oldest in Colorado, and is essentially a place of pleasant homes. It is the county
seat of Fremont County, and the seat of the State Penitentiary. Its warm and
equable climate makes it a favorite resort for invalids. In addition to its pleasant
climate it possesses valuable mineral springs, both hot and cold. The water of
the cold springs is almost icy in temperature, and strongly impregnated with soda.
The cold springs are situated just above the Penitentiary. '1 he scenery round
about Canon City is exceedingly attractive. The drive of about twelve miles to
the brink of the Royal Gorge and the view of that wonderful chasm from the top,
which can there be
obtained, are experi-
ences never to be for-
gotten. The town
and its contiguous
country possess the
finest orchards in the
state, and the culti-
vation of fruit has
become a leading in-
dustry. The city is
well built, has hand-
some business blocks
and comfortable and
elegant residences.
(Population, 2,500.
Distance from Den-
ver, 161 miles. El-
evation, 5,243 feet )
The Hot
Springs. Having
left Canon City and
traversed a mile to
the westward the
traveler will observe
to his left a pictur
esque, many gabled
building, across the
river, a rustic foot
bridge leading there-

to. This is the Royal Gorge hotel situated at the Hot Springs. The hotel
has excellent accommodations for guests and is a favorite resort for health and
pleasure seekers. The springs are recommended by physicians as excellent in
cases of cutaneous and blood diseases. Prof. Loew's analysis of the waters is as
follows :

Grains in a Gallon of Water
Temperature 104 deg. Fah.

Chloride of Sodium 18.2

Sulphate of Soda 79.3

Carbonate of Soda 73.2

Carbonate of Lime 33.5

Carbonate of Magnesia 12.8

Lithia.. ..Trace.

GRAPE CREEK CANON.

217.0

THE ROYAL GORGE.

34 OVER THE RANGE.

Baths have been provided at the hotel and are supplied with all of the modern
conveniences.

Silver Cliff Branch. This branch, 33 miles in length, which turns to
the left just as the train enters the Grand Canon, two miles above Canon City,
has its terminus at West Cliff. It passes through most charming scenery and enters
an exceedingly fertile country, the Wet Mountain Valley surrounding the terminal
station. Its greatest claim to scenic attraction is the fact that it passes through a
canon only less grand than that of the Arkansas.

Grape Creek CailOll. Among the many remarkable canons for which
the State of Colorado is famous, there is probably none which presents more attrac-
tions to the lover of nature, or which combines the sublime with the beautiful more
perfectly, than that of Grape Creek. This beautiful stream takes its rise among
the lofty and almost inaccessible peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Range, and flowing
nearly northward, waters in its course the beautiful and fertile Wet Mountain Val-
ley; then passing near the famous Silver Cliff mining camp it continues its tortuous
course in an easterly direction until it enters the Arkansas River about a mile above
Canon City, just where the river leaves the Grand Canon, after its terrific conflict
with the granite cliffs, and tossing its foam crests high in the air, makes its last
triumphant exit from the mountains. The walls of this canon present a splendid
study for the geologist, as piled up in many places over a thousand feet in nearly
vertical height, they exhibit the various formations of primary rock in a striking
and peculiar manner. The entrance to the canon for over a mile follows the wind-
ings of the clear flowing creek, with gently sloping hills on either side covered with
low spruce and pinon, and with grass plats and brilliant flowers, in season, far up
their slopes, and the Spanish lance and bush cactus present their bristling points
wherever a little soil affords them sustenance. To examine this canon thoroughly
a carriage or saddle-horses should be taken from Canon City, but as the train ascent
of the grades must be made slowly, a very satisfactory view can be gained from the
cars in passing.

West Cliff. This town is beautifully situated in the Wet Mountain Val-
ley, surrounded by a fine grazing and agricultural country. The view is a grand
one, lofty mountains bounding the entire circle of the horizon. A mile from the
station is Silver Cliff, which after the discovery of the Racine Boy mine, was the
centre of a tremendous rush of miners, resulting in several other great discoveries,
but the large mines were few in number and the prospectors left for other fields.
The good mines are still productive and add their quota to the prosperity of the
Valley. West Cliff is the shipping point for Silver Cliff and Rosita, being the rail-
road station. (Population, 800. Distance from Denver, 194 miles. Elevation,
7,864 feet.)

Just beyond Cafion City the railway enters the
Grand Canon of the Arkansas, the narrowest por-
tion of which is known as the Royal Gorge. When
first examined it seemed impossible that a railway

ROYAL GORGE.

Distance from Denver,
163 miles.

Greatest Height of
Walls, 2,627 feet.

Length, 7 miles.

could ever be constructed through this stupendous
canon to Leadville and the west. There was scarcely
room for the river alone, and granite ledges blocked
the path with their mighty bulk. In time, however,
these obs ructions were blasted away, a road-bed
closely following the contour of the cliffs was made,
and to-day the cafion is a well-used thoroughfare.
But its grandeur still remains. After entering its

OVER THE RANGE

THE ROYAL GORGE

depths, the train moves slowly along the side of the Arkansas, and around project-
ing shoulders of dark-hued granite, deeper and deeper into the heart of the range.
The crested crags grow higher, the river madly foams along its rocky bed, and
anon the way becomes a mere fissure through the heights. Far above the road the
sky forms a deep blue arch of light ; but in the Gorge hang dark and sombre
shades which the sun's rays have never penetrated. The place is a measureless
gulf of air with solid walls on either side. Here the granite cliffs are a thousand
feet high, smooth and unbroken by tree or shrub ; and there a pinnacle soars sky-
ward for thrice that distance. No flowers grow, and the birds care not to penetrate
the solitudes. The river, sombre and swift, breaks the awful stillness with ftsroar.
Soon the cleft becomes still more narrow, the treeless cliffs higher, the river closer

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 37

confined, and where a long iron bridge hangs suspended from the smooth walls,
the grandest portion of the caflon is reached. Man becomes dwarfed and dumb in
the sublime scene, and Nature exhibits the power she possesses. The crags men-
acingly rear their heads above the daring intruders, and the place is like the entrance
to some infernal region. Escaping from the Gorge, the narrow valley of the upper
Arkansas is traversed, with the striking serrated peaks of the Sangre de Cristo close
at hand on the west, until Salida is reached.

During the summer season au open observation car is attached to each through
train while traversing the Grand Canon and the Black Canon, thus affording the
traveler the best opportunity of seeing these wonders of nature. There are a
number of stations between Canon City and Salida, but none of them are of special
interest to the tourist, except that fishing and hunting can be found in the imme-
diate vicinity of any of them.

Parkdale. At this little station the observation car is detached from the
wist bound and attached to the east bound train. From this open car the tourist
can obtain an unobstructed view of the grandeurs of the Royal Gorge, and is in
service during most of the year ; being discontinued only during the most in-
cleim-nt months of winter.

Beautiful Mountain View. Emerging from the canon, a most
beautiful mountain view is obtained ; to the left stretch the serrated summits of
the Sangre de Cristo Range, while to the front and right are the towering peaks of
the Collegiate Mountains.

Wellsville Hot Springs are on our left across the Arkansas River,
six miles before Salida is reached. Here is a natural warm plunge bath, the
waters of which are strongly impregnated with medicinal qualities. The Wells-
ville Springs are a favorite resort, and are made the objective point for many
pleasant excursion parties.

This prosperous town is situated on the right
bank of the Arkansas River, at the junction of the
Leadville and Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio

SALIDA.

Health and Pleasure

Resort and

Business Centre.

Population, 3,OOO

Distance from Denver,

217 miles.

in plain view crowned with perpetual snow, while
Elevation, 7,049 feet.

to the south stands the Sangre de Cristo Range,
Eating Station.

and in the southwest tower Ouray and Shaveno.

Grande Railroad, with the main line to Salt Lake
and Ogden. The view of the mountains from Salida
is especially grand. The Collegiate Range rises to
the west with Yale, Harvard and Princeton Peaks

The beauty of its situation, the near proximity to
hot medicinal springs, the wonderful salubrity of its climate, make Salida an ex-
tremely popular health and pleasure resort. Tributary to the town are mines of
copper, silver, gold, iron and coal, great quantities of charcoal are burned neaj
Salida, and the agricultural and pastoral interest are of great extent.

Poncha. This little town, five miles west of Salida, is the station fof
Poncha Hot Springs and the junction of the Monarch Branch with the main line
It is really a suburb of Salida, and is connected with that town by a beautiful
boulevard, which is one of the pleasantest of drives.

Monarch Branch. From Poncha this branch runs into a rich mining
country, its terminus is Monarch, a prosperous mining town, 237 miles from
Dejiver and n miles from Ponchav The intermediate stations on the line <w*
Maysville and Garfield. Mining is the chief industry.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

PONCHA SPRINGS,

Hot Springs,

Watering Place,
and Health Kesort.

Distance from Denver*
231 miles.

Elevation, 7,48O feet.

As a resort for invalids, Poncha Springs offers
superior inducements, especially to those suffering
from chronic troubles. The sick get well here in
less time and with less medicine than in any other
sanitarium outside of Colorado. The return to
health here is made radically permanent. A great
variety of diseases are cured by the peculiar earth-
heated and earth-medicated waters and an intelli-
gent system of baths. The effect on the sick is
wonderfully beneficial, corollating a specific energy
with the climate and pure atmosphere and the very
feeble are enabled to tolerate much hotter baths

than in damper or lower altitudes, and secure correspondingly greater results. The
analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs corresponds almost exactly with the waters of
the Hot Springs in Arkansas. The temperature of the various Arkansas Hot
Springs varies from 90 to 175°, that of the Poncha Springs varies from 90 to 185°
Fahrenheit. The water is as clear as crystal and perfectly odorless and tasteless.
It quenches thirst whether cold or hot, and does not disturb the stomach in any
manner. There are one hundred of these Hot Springs, all flowing from a great
field of tufa, the natural precipitation of ages of loss of temperature from contact
with the atmosphere and chemically the same as the tufa of the Arkansas Hot
Springs. The springs have a capacity large enough to bathe 40,000 persons daily.
Commodious bath-houses have been erected and competent physicians are in
attendance. The following is an analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs :

Silicic Acid 32.73

Sesqui-oxide of Iron 1.27

Alumina 5.20

Lime 20.00

Magnesia .74

Cholerine 06

Carbonic Acid Gas. 22.50

Organic Matter 6.24

Water 1.72

Sulphuric Acid - 4.46

Potash 2.08 ;

Soda i. oo

Iodine 1.50 .

Bromine 1.50'

The waters are said to be a sure cure for rheumatism and all blood and skin
diseases, and catarrhal affections.

Pondia Pass. After leaving Poncha Station the railroad begins to climb
the mountains, and makes its entry into Marshall Pass by way of Poncha Pass. As
the train makes a long curve around the side of a great hill, about two miles above
the town of Poncha, the tourist can see the Hot Springs on the side of the opposite
hill to the left, a deep gorge intervening, at the bottom of which flows a clear
mountain stream. The scenery here is wild and beautiful, and the interest increases
with each mile of the ascent.

Mears Junction. This little station, 227 miles from Denver, in the heart
of the hills, is the junction of the San Luis branch with the main line, and from
this point the real ascent of Marshall Pass begins.

Sail Luis Branch. This branch extends from Mears Junction to Villa
Grove and Hot Springs, the latter point being the terminus of the line. The
intervening stations are Round Hill and Davenport.

Villa Grove. This town is situated at the northern extremity of the great -
San Luis Valley, and is surrounded by a rich agricultural country. There are many
good mines of gold, silver and coal, in the near vicinity. (Population, 200. Dis-
tance from Denver, 247 miles. Elevation, 7,971 feet.)

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

After leaving Mears Station the line advances
by means of a series of curves absolutely bewilder-
ing, following the convolutions of the gulches. As
the altitude grows greater, the view becomes less
obstructed by mountain sides, and the eye roams
over miles of cone-shaped summits. The timber-
less tops of towering ranges show him that he is
among the heights and in a region familiar with
the clouds. Then he beholds, stretching away to
the left, the most perfect of all the Sierras. The sun-
light falls with a white, transfiguring radiance upon the snow-crowned spires of the
Sangre de Cristo Range. Thei* sharp and dazzling pyramids, which near at hand are

MARSHALL PASS.

Railroading
Among the Clouds.

A Marvel

of Engineering Skill.
Elevation, 10,856 feet.

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE.

clearly defined, extend to the southward until cloud and sky and snowy peak com-
mingle and form a vague and bewildering vision. To the right, towers the fire scarred
front of old Ouray, gloomy and grand, solitary and forbidding. Ouray holds the
pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the fertile Gunnison. Slowly the
steeps are conquered until at last the train halts at the station, upon the summit of
Marshall Pass. The awful silence of the storm-tossed granite ocean lies beneath.
The traveler looks down upon four lines of road, terrace beyond terrace, the last
so far below as to be quite indistinct to view. These are only loops of the almost
spiral pathway of descent. Wonder at the triumphs of engineering skill is
strangely mingled with the feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous
grandeur of the scene.

Marshall Pass Station. Is directly on the summit of the pass, and
the track is enclosed by a large snow shed. Fine views can be obtained, however,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 43

from the loop holes or from either end of the shed. The elevation is 10.852 feet
above the sea. The descent begins, and the road winds around projecting head-
lands, on the verge of vast precipices, threads dark recesses where patches of light
fall through leafy canopies upon the green slopes, follows the windings of the
Tomichi, and later courses through cultivated meadows dotted with hay-stacks and
small ranch houses. As the train, rolls swiftly on, a backward glance gives the
traveler a comprehensive idea of the vast heights overcome in the passage. The
stations between Marshall Pass and Gunnison are as follows: Hillden, Shawanp,
Chester, Buxton, Sargent, Elko, Crookton, Dovle, Bonita, Parlin and Mounds.
These stations are all small but situated in the midst of beautiful scenery.

The Wauilita Hot Springs are situated eight miles from Parlin.
The waters have long been famous for their great medicinal qualities, and they have
been frequented by those suffering from ill health with the most surprising and
gratifying results. Good accommodations have been provided for guests. The
scenery surrounding the Springs is unsurpassed, and no pleasanter place can be
found by the searcher after health or pleasure ,

Tomidli Meadows. Beyond Parlin the line crosses a wide expanse of
natural meadow land, through which meanders the beautiful Tomichi Creek.

Gunnison is the county seat of Gunnison County,
and is situated on the Gunnison River. From its
central position in the great Gunnison Valley, it

GUNNISON.

Population, 2,500.

Eating Station.

must of necessity always be the distributing point ;

and, therefore, its growth is assured as being com
Distance from Denver,

cident with that of the country in which it is situated.

From Gunnison extends a branch of the Denver &
Elevation, 7,683 feet.

Rio Grande Railroad up to Crested Butte, situated
in the heart of a rich gold and silver mining'country,
and being the centre of the wonderful anthracite
coal measures of the state. The town is beautifully

situated and is in such close proximity to some of the most attractive scenery in
the Rocky Mountains, that it has become a favorite objective point with tourists.
The Gunnison River and its many confluent trout brooks offer fine sport for the
fisherman, and the hills abound in game. The La Veta Hotel, the eating station
for passengers, is one of the most magnificent in Colorado, having been erected at
an expense of $225,000. It is elegantly furnished, and offers first class accom-
modations for the tourists who may wish to spend a few days or weeks here,
hunting and fishing.

Crested Butte Branch, From Gunnison the Crested Butte branch
of the road extends to the northwest to Crested Butte, a distance of twenty eight
miles. The line extends up the Gunnison River, which swarms with trout and is
an extremely picturesque stream. The Elk Mountains are in plain view, and add
grandeur to the scene. The intervening stations are Almont, Jack's Cabin and
Glaciers.

Crested Blltte. This pretty village is situated most delightfully among
the mountains, one castellated peak directly opposite the town conferring the name
it bears. This is the center of the most remarkable coal region yet discovered in
Colorado, and abounding also in rich mines of gold and silver. At Crested Butte.
just back of the village, is found abundant measures of exceedingly bituminous
coal, which is mined largely and made into coke. Four miles north of the town
anthracite coal, equal in every respect to the best found in Pennsylvania, is taken
from the top of a mountain, and shipped all over Colorado and Utah. The fishing

GATE OF LADORE

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 45

and hunting in the mountain streams, and over the wooded hills, furnish abundant
sport for the residents and tourists, and the rides and drives afford an almost
infinite variety. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 318 miles. Elevation,
8,878 feet.)

Sapinero stands at the eastern entrance to the Black Canon, and is beauti-
fully situated on the banks of the Gunnison River. The town was named after
a sub-chief among the Utes, who was regarded by the whites as a man of unusual
intellectual and executive ability. In addition to commanding the entrance to the
canon, Sapinero is the junctional point for the Lake City extension of the line.
(Population, 48. Distance from Denver, 316 miles. Elevation. 7,255 feet.)

Lake City Branch. This extension is thirty-six miles in length, and
has its terminus at Lake City. The line turns to the left about a mile west of
Sapinero, and passes through a remarkable canon en route.

Iiake Fork CanOll. This canon is a most attractive bit of scenery.
It is noted for its narrowness, and the height and grandeur of its walls. For
thirteen miles the railroad winds through this tortuous chasm, the walls rising on
each hand to a height varying from eight hundred to thirteen hundred feet. The
river claims the right of way but the railroad also asserts its rights, and by the
exercise of engineering skill has forced a passage. In many places the solid wall
of granite has been blasted away, and from the fallen blocks a solid embankment
constructed, upon which the rails have been laid. The Lake Fork is a rapid and
tumultuous stream, abounding in rapids and presenting a most interesting, varied
and exhilarating panorama to the eye. Emerging from the canon and gaining a
greater altitude, the view is one of magnificent extent and grandeur. Northward
the peaks of the Elk Range form a long line of well-separated summits. North-
eastward, the vista between nearer hills is filled with the clustered heights of the
Continental Divide in the neighborhood of the Mount of the Holy Cross. Just
below them confused elevations show where Marshall Pass carries its lofty avenue,
and to the southward of that stretches the splendid, snow trimmed array of the
Sangre de Cristo.

This enterprising and thriving mining town
stands in a little park at the junction of the Lake
Fork of the Gunnison River with Hensen Creek,

LAKE CITY.

Picturesque Mining
Town.

Population, 1,500.

Distance from Denver,
352 miles.

Elevation, 8,604 feet.

both typical mountain streams. A substantial and
pretty town has been established. Mires of
marvelous value surround the town, and the recent
advent of the railroad has given new life and energy
to all the commercial and speculative projects of the
people. The development of her mining resources
has been retarded during the past by the lack of
transportation facilities, but this has only caused its

stores of wealth to be held in abeyance for awhile before their coinage. Many
another district, a few years ago thought equally profitless, has risen to become the
scene of steady dividend making labor through the perfection of processes. It
will not be long before, by like means, the reviving of Lake City's mines will occur,
and enable her to catch up with her more fortunate sisters in the wide circle of the
San Juan silver region. The romantic surroundings of this pretty town, — the
lovely lakes from which it takes its characteristic name, the grand mountains and
the grassy parks — have made it a favorite for the lovers of nature in the past,
and will still attract them in the future. This is a paradise for a sportsman. Over
these rolling uplands, among the aspen groves, upon the foot hills and along the

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 47

willow-bordered creek deer now throng, and even an occasional elk and antelope
are to be seen. In the rocky fastnesses the bear and panther find refuge, and
every little park is enlivened by the flitting forms of timid hares and the whirring
escape of the grouse disturbed by our passing.

Beyond Gunnison, the railway traverses the

valley of the same name, following the river closely,
and encountering nothing but meadows and low,
grayish cliffs. The Gunnison River abounds in
fish, and is a great resort for the disciples of Isaac
Walton. Soon, however, the channel, which the
stream has worn, becomes narrower. The cliffs
grow higher and steeper, ' the vegetation is less
abundant, and suddenly the sunlight is cut off by

BLACK CANON

OF THE

GUNNISON.

Height of Walls,
2,500 feet.

Length of Canon,
14 miles.

broken summits, and directly after leaving Sapi.
nero, where the observation car is attached, the
Black Canon holds us fast in its embrace. This
gorge is grander, deeper, darker, and yet more
beautiful than the one we have so lately penetrated. It is twice as long, has more
verdure, and, although the walls are dark-hued enough to give the place its name,
still they are of red sandstone in many places, and from their crevices and on their
tops, shrubs, cedars and pinons grow in rich abundance. The river has a deep, sea-
green color, and is followed to Cimarron Creek, up which the road continues, still
through rocky depths, to open country beyond. The Black Canon never tires,
never becomes commonplace.

Chippeta Fall starts from a dizzy height, is dashed into fragments by
lower terraces, and, tossed by the winds, reaches the river in fine white spray;
there another cataract leaps clear of the walls, and thunders unbroken upon the
ground beside us. In the cliffs are smaller streams, which trickle down and
are lost in the river below. At times the canon narrows, and is full of sharp
curves, but again has long, wide stretches, which enable one to1 study the
steep crags that tower heavenward two or three thousand feet.

Clirrecanti Needle, the most abrupt and isolated of these pinnacles,
has all the grace and symmetry of a Cleopatra obelisk. It is red-hued from
point to base, and stands like a grim sentinel, watchful of the canon's solitudes.
At the junction of the Gunnison and the Cimarron a bridge spans the gorge,
from which the beauties of the canon are seen at their best. Sombre shades
prevail; the stream fills the space with its heavy roar, and the sunlight falls upon
the topmost pines, but never reaches down the dark red walls. Huge boulders
lie scattered about; fitful winds sweep down the deep clefts; Nature has created
everything on a grand scale; detail is supplanted by magnificence, and the place
is'one appealing to our deepest feelings. It greets us as a thing of beauty, and
will remain in our memory a joy forever. Long ago the Indians of this region
built their council fires here. By secret paths, always guarded, they gained these
fastnesses, and held their grave and somber meetings. The firelight danced across
their swarthy faces to the cliffs encircling them. The red glow lit up with Rem-
brandt tints the massive walls, the surging streams and clinging vines. They
may not have known the place had beauties, but they realized its isolation, and
fearing nothing in their safe retreat, spoke boldly of their plans.

Gilliarron. Is a most attractive little station, nestled among the gulches
on the banks of sparkling Cimarron Creek. Here is a meal station, and here the
observation car is detached. Sportsmen make headquarters at Cimarron, for the

CURRECANTI NEEDLE, BLACK CANON.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

hills are full of game and the streams abound in trout. (Population, nominal.
Distance from Denver, 331 miles. Elevation, 6,906 feet.)

Cimarrnji Canon. Where Cimarron Creek empties into the Gun-
nison through a short canon, the road leaves Black Carton, which continues on
with the larger stream, heightening in awfulness. Down there the fall of the
river increases so rapidly that to follow it to the end, the railroad would emerge a
thousand feet above the valley which it seeks, if a practicable grade should be
kept, so the engineers have turned the road out to the valley through Cimarron
Canon, and in four or five miles a verdureless expanse is reached, and for hours
the road traverses a region which is picturesque in its poverty and desolation;
ami in the summer the distant and sun-heated buttes, with the arid plains between,
remind the traveler of the wastes of Arabia Petra

TROUT FISHING
ON THE CIMARRON

Cedar Divide is reached directly after emerging from Cimarron Canon.
From here the Uncompahgre Valley, its river, and the distant, picturesque peaks
of the San Juan are within full sight of the traveler. Descending to the valley and
following the river past Montrose, the Gunnison is again encountered at Delta.

This town can take just pride in the grandeur of
its mountain view. Situated in the Uncompahgre
Valley, Montrose is almost surrounded by moun-
tains. The San Juan Mountains tower into the
heavens to the south, captained by Mounts Sneffles
and Uncompahgre, both over fourteen thousand feet
high. Along the western horizon trend the Un-
compahgre Peaks to where the Dolores joins the
Grand River, a distance of over one hundred and
fifty miles. The Uncompahgre Valley is fertile, and along the branch of the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad from Montrose to Ouray, is under high state
of cultivation. The cereals, fruit and vegetables, together with forage plants,
flourish here in the greatest luxuriance. Here was the Indian reservation,

MONTROSE.

Population, 1,5OO.
Distance from Denver,

353 miles.
Elevation, 5,811 feet.

CHIPPETA FALLS IN THE BLACK CANON.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

and here lived Ouray, the friend of the white man. It is only a. fcw y<;ats since
the good chief died, and hi. farm and buildings are still pointed out to the
traveler, on the line to the town of Ouray, about two miles south of Montrose. The
land in the valley surrounding Montrose is gradually being brought under cultiva-
tion. Irrigating canals have been constructed, and the rich soil responds gener-
ously to the demands of the farmer. Mining and pastoral industries also contribute
greatly to the success of Montrose. There can be found excellent hunting a"»4
fishing in the vicinity.

A UTE COUNCIL FIRE.

Delta is twenty-one miles from Montrose, and is the county seat of Delta
County. It is situated in the delta formed by the junction of the Uncompahgre
and the Gunnison Rivers. The town is in a fine agricultural region and is supported
by farming, pastoral and mining industries. It is destined to become, in time, a
considerable business centre. (Population, 400. Distance from Denver 374 miles.
Elevation, 4,980 feet.)

Between Delta and Grand Junction there are a number of small stations which
will not interest the traveler, but the scenery through which the railroad passes
(while it is not especially startling) will interest him. After passing Delta the road
crosses the Uncompahgre 'and follows the west bank of the Gunnison (the same

52 OVER THE RANGE

river that was left at Cimarron, forty-four miles behind us). In about five miles
we cross to the east bank of the Gunnison and roll along beneath cliffs which tower
on our right above the train, leaving but little room between rocks and river. At
Bridgeport the cars plunge into the Bridgeport Tunnel, 2,256 feet in length, the
longest tunnel on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Shortly an iron bridge ovef
a fine stream (the Gunnison River) is passed, and we find ourselves at the junc-
tion of the Gunnison with the Grand River.

_ In the Valley of the Grand River, and sur-

rounded by a fertile and well watered country,
Grand Junction is destined to become the leading
city of western Colorado. An extensive system of
irrigating ditches has been established, and all the
land under these ditches taken up and most of it
cultivated. The comparatively low altitude of this
valley, it being the lowest among the Rocky Moun-
tains with but one exception in Utah, makes it
especially adapted to the cultivation of fruit. Peach-
es, grapes, apricots, pears and small fruits flourish

GRAND JUNCTION.

Chief City of
Grand River Valley,

Junction of Grand and
Gunnison Rivers.

Population, 1,50O.

Distance from Denver,
425 miles.

Elevation, 4,594 feet.

here in great luxuriance, and most of the farmers
Eating: Station.

have planted orchards and vineyards of greater or

less extent. The usual farm products thrive
in the valley, and large crops can be counted on with the greatest confidence.
Grand Junction is the county seat of Mesa County, and has business and public
buildings of a substantial character. Shade trees have been planted on each side
of the streets, giving the town a most pleasing and attractive appearance. There is
one thing sure about the Grand River Valley, and that is it will never want for
water, and with plenty of water for irrigation secured, the future prosperity of the
valley and the consequent growth of Grand Junction are both assured. Back in the
hills great herds are pastured, and mining is, though to a moderate extent,
tributary to the town.

Fruitvale is the next station to the west, and while the town does not
appear to amount to a great deal, yet the experiment which is being carried on
here is of interest to all. The post office is called Fruita, though the railroad sta-
tion has been named Fruitvale. The post office and the station would have been
given the single name of Fruitvale but for the fact that there are other " Fruitvale"
post offices and the government does not care to multiply duplicate names The
experiment carried on here, to which reference has been made, is that of fruit cul-
ture, the effort being to prove this valley as well fitted for this purpose as Utah.
So far the experiments have been successful. (Population, 25. Distance from
Denver, 436 miles. Elevation, 4,523 feet.)

The Colorado Desert. For a stretch of about two hundred and fifty
miies beyond Fruitvale no agricultural country will be seen — over one hundred
miles of this, in fact, is known as the Colorado Desert. But well informed people
assert that all this desert needs to be made fertile is irrigation. Water can be got
on this land from the Grand river, and perhaps before another decade has passed
away the " Colorado Desert " will be ranked with that geographical myth of twenty
years ago. " The Great American Desert."

The Book Cliffs. The intervening psace of one hundred miles between
the Grand River and the Green would be monotonous were it not for the glimpses
one obtains, to the left, of the snow-crowned San Rafael and Sierra La Sal mount-
ains and the constant presence, to the right, of the multiform and varicolored Book

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO.

Cliffs. These Cliffs are the northern shore of what in former ages must have been
a great inland sea, across whose basin the rai\road runs. They vary in altitude
from seven thousand to nine thousand feet and divide the waters ot the Grand
River from those of the White, extending two hundred miles from east to west.
There are no stations of any importance between Grand Junction and Green River,
the train pausing in transit only for water.

G-reeil River. This is an eating station, on the west batik ot the Green
River, and on alighting from the cars the traveler is astonisned at t.ne elegance of
the hotel and the beauty of its surroundings, situated, as it is, away out on the edge
of the desert. A handsome lawn of shaven grass surrounds the hotel, ornamented
with trees and shrubs. All the modern conveniences are to oe found within, even

54 OVER THE RANGE

to the latest style of wlectric light, and one of the best meals to be found on the
entire journey is heiv- set before the traveler. The hotel buildings are owned by
the railroad company and no pains have been spared to make everything first class.
Green River is a shipping point of considerable importance for stock. (Population,
25. Distance from Denver, 544 miles. Elevation, 4,069 feet.)

Grand Canon of the Colorado. From the bridge across Green
River the traveler, can, if the day is clear, catch a glimpse of the rugged walls of
the Grand Canon of the Colorado, scarcely fifty miles to the southward.

Climbing1 the Wasatch Range. From Green River to Soldier
Summit, a distance of ninety-nine miles, the grade is a constant ascent, the scenery
growing wilder and more varied as the advance is made. The road extends to the
northward, and, after passing Sphinx, Desert Switch and Cliff Siding, unimportant
side tracks, reaches Lower Crossing, twenty-five miles from Green River.

Lower Crossing is situated on Price River in the midst of interesting
scenery, stock raising is tributary to the town. (Population, 25. Distance from
Denver, 570 miles. Elevation, 4,630 feet.)

Price. Situated on the south fork of the Price River, the town has a very
fertile valley, though of limited extent surrounding it. What arahle land there is
has been carefully utilized, and large crops of potatoes, alfalfa, oats and vegetables
are raised here, through the aid of irrigation. There are mines of asphaltum to
the northward, which are worked extensively, and the product shipped to the east.
Price is also an important shipping point for cattle and sheep. The scenery here
is very attractive, and the hunting and fishing are excellent. (Population, ico.
Distance from Denver, 611 miles. Elevation, 5,547 feet.)

Fort Dushane. Eighty miles to the northward from Price, on the
Uintah and Uncompahgre Indian reservation, is Fort Dushane, the Government
post, supplies for which are forwarded from Price. Fort Dushane, has four
companies of infantry and two of cavalry, numbering in all three hundred men.
There are 4,000,000 acres in the reservation, all of which are at the service of only
2,500 Indians.

_ Six miles beyond Price station the train enters

the famous portals of Castle Gate, which stand at
CASTLE GATE, the entrance of the Price River Canon. Castle

Gate is similar in many respects to the gateway in
Entrance to

the Garden of the Gods. The two huge pillars, or
Price River Canon. ledges of rQck composing it> are offshoots of the

Height, 500 feet.

cliffs behind. They are of different heights, one
measuring five hundred, and the other four hundred
and fifty feet, from top to base. They are richly dyed
with red, and the firs and pines growing about them, but reaching only to their lower
strata, render this coloring more noticeable and beautiful. Between the two sharp
promontories, which are separated only by a narrow space, the river and the railway
both run, one pressing closely against the other. The stream leaps over a rocky
bed, and its banks are lined with tangled brush. Once past the gate, and looking
back, the bold headlands forming it have a new and more attractive beauty. They
are higher and more massive, it seems, than when we were in their shadow. No
other pinnacles approach them in size or majesty. They are landmarks up and
down the canon, their lofty tops catching the eye before their bases are discovered.
It was down Price River Canon, and past Castle Gate, that Sidney Johnston
marched his army home from Utah. For miles now, and until the mountains are
crossed, the route chosen by the General is closely followed. The gateway is

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

hardly lost to view by a turn in the canon before we are scaling the wooded heights.
The river is never lost sight of. The cliffs which hem us in are filled with curious
forms. Now there is seen a mighty castle, with moats and towers, loopholes and
wall; now a gigantic head appears. At times side canons, smaller than the one
we are in, lead to verdant heights beyond, where game of every variety abounds.

CASTLE GATE.

Kynnc. Distance from Denver, 632 miles. Large stone quarries are
worked here.

Pleasant Valley Junction. This little town is situated in the midst
of rich and extensive coal measures. A branch road runs to the coal mines a dis-
tance of about twenty miles to the southward. The coal is valuable for coking,
and is used in the various smelters of the territory. (Population, 200. Distance
from Denver, 636 miles. Elevation, 7,177 feet.)

Coal Branch. From Pleasant Valley Junction the Coal Branch extends to
Mud Creek, a distance of 20 miles. The intervening stations are Hale, Schofield

56 OVER THE RANGE.

and Coal Mine. The chief business of the road is the transportation of coal, which
is mined extensively here.

Soldier Summit. Here we are on the highest railroad point on the
Wasatch Range. Good pasturage covers the mountain tops, and great herds of
cattle, horses and sheep graze here among the sage brush. The scenery here is
wild and picturesque and the view is wide, embracing a great sweep of serrated
mountain summits. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 642 miles.
Elevation, 7,465 feet.) From this point the descent is made to the Utah Valley.

Red Narrows. Here the cliffs rise on each side of the track, assuming
fantastic forms, and glowing with varied colors, among which red is predominant ;
hence, the name.

Spanish Fork CailOll is charmingly picturesque, and a spot which
would delight the artist. It is characterized by fresh foliage, soft contours,
charming contrasts, and sparkling waters Emerging from the canon the traveler
realizes that one stage of his mountain journey has been achieved, and before him
lies one of the most fertile valleys in the world.

Utah Valley. This favored spot presents the appearance of a well-
cultivated park. It has an Arcadian beauty, and resembles the vales of Scotland.
In its centre rests Utah Lake, where

"... the stars an d mountains view

The stillness of their aspect in each trace

Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue."

A little back from the lake stand the towns of Provo and Spsingville, shaded by
the near peaks of the range. Utah Valley possesses a fertile soil, a delightful
climate, and is one of the best farming sections of Utah. Fruit trees and grape vines
grow as readily as hay and cereals. Eastward the oblong-shaped basin is shut in
by the Wasatch Mountains; and on the west is the Oquirrh Range. Northward
are low hills, or mesas, crossing the valley and separating it from that of the Great
Salt Lake; while in the south, the east and west ranges approach each other and
form blue-tinted walls of uneven shape. To the left of this barrier Mount Nebo,
highest and grandest of the Utah peaks, rises majestically above all surroundings.
Its summit sparkles with snow, its lower slopes are wooded and soft, while from it,
and extending north and south, run vast, broken, vari colored confreres. The
valley is like a well-kept garden; farm joins farm; crystal streams water it; and
scattered about in rich profusion are 1« ng lines of fruit trees, amid which are trim,
white houses. All these evidences of prosperity testify to the virtues of industry,
frugality and perseverance, which no one can deny are possessed by the Mormon
farmers.

Spanish Fork. This is the first town in Utah Valley that the west-
bound tourist enters. It is situated on the Spanish Fork River, and is a most
pleasant rural village. Fruit and shade trees abound. Agricultural, horticultural,
and pastoral industries are pursued by the inhabitants. Vineyards flourish, wine
is made, dairy products are a specialty, and the cereals and all kinds of vegetables
are cultivated. (Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 679 miles. Elevation,
4,721 feet.)

Sprillgville. This is another typical Mormon town. It is only four
miles from Spanish Fork, and naturally possesses similar characteristics. The
town derives its name from the fact that a strong hot spring pours its waters into
a stream just above the town, in Hobble Cafton. The water does not freeze in
winter, and thus a flouring mill run by it is enabled to work the year 'round.
(Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 683 miles. Elevation, 4,565 feet.)

OVER THE RANGE

This pretty little city belongs to the best type
of Mormon towns, and a description of it will serve
to give the reader a good idea of the characteristics
of all the towns built by the Mormons. The dwell-
ings, as a rule, are comfortable, but not imposing in
appearance. Many of them aie constructed of
adobe or sun-dried bricks, and all are situated in lots
of generous proportions and surrounded by orna-
mental and fruit trees. Water for irrigating pur-
poses flows down each side of the streets, and shade
trees in abundance and of luxuriant growth render
the walks cool and inviting. Gardens filled with

fruits, flowers and vegetables are the rule, and a quiet, peaceful, industrious semi-
rural nfe is the good fortune of the residents here. The town is eminently fitted
for a health and pleasure resort, and has also great advantages as a manufacturing

PROVO,

County Seat of Utah Co.

Summer Resort.
Population, 5,000.

Distance from Denver,
689 miles.

Elevation, 4,517 feet.

SPANISH FORK CANON.

c*ntre. The Timpanogas River furnishes unexcelled water power, while inex-
haustible supplies of artesian water are to be found at a depth of from forty to two
hundred feet. The city has, in fact, the finest water supply of any in Utah Terri-
tory. Provo has a fine public school system and is the seat of the Brigham Young
Academy, which was amply endowed by the first President of the Mormon Church,
from whom the school takes its name. Its churches and public buildings, includ-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

ing an opera house, are a credit to its people, who are of a literary taste and inclined
to liberality of thought. Utah Lake, a fine body of fresh water, lies to the south-
west, and to the north and east are the Wasatch Mountains. Farming, horticult-
ure and the raising of cattle and sheep are tributary industries, while in the town
are large saw mills, flouring mills and woolen mills, the most extensive in Utah.

Utah Lake. Mention has already been made of this beautiful body of
water, but the statistical traveler may want to know something more definite about
its dimensions. The lake is thirty miles long, six miles wide, and is fed by the

TRAMWAY IN LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON

American Fork, Spanish Fork and Provo Rivers, and Salt, Peteetweet and Hobble
Creeks. Its outlet is the Jordan River which, flowing northward, empties into
Great Salt Lake. There are plenty of fish in Utah Lake, chiefly trout and mullet.

American Fork. On the western ex-remity of Utah Lake, is American
Fork, a thriving town beautifully situated and embowered in trees. Agricultural
and pastoral industries are tributary to its prosperity. (Population 1,800. Dis-
tance from Denver, 702 miles. Elevation, 4,567 feet.)

Lelligll. Three miles from American Fork is Lehigh, another thriving town
also on Utah Lake. Fruit and shade trees abound and make the town a place of
sylvan beauty. The same industries thrive here as in the sister town mentioned
above. (Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 705 miles. Elevation, 4,544
feet.)

60 OVER THE RANGE.

Bingham Junction. This station is at the junction of the Bingham
and Alta branches of the road and, therefore, is quite a bustling place in the way
of railroad business, though it has but a nominal population. (Distance from
Denver, 723 miles. Elevation, 4,366 feet.)

Bingham Branch. This branch extends southwest to Bingham, a
distance of sixteen miles. The intervening stations are Revere, Lead Mine and
Terra Cotta.

Biughaill. The town may almost be classed as a suburb of Salt Lake City,
as it is less than an hour's ride from the capital of Utah Territory. The main
industry of the surrounding population is mining. (Population, 900. Distance
from Denver, 740 miles. Elevation, 4,375 feet.)

Alta Branch, This branch extends to the northward from Bingham
Junction to Alta, a distance of thirty-five miles. The intermediate stations are
Sandy and Wasatch. The line passes through the Little Cottonwood Canon
en route.

Alta. This is a mining town known all round the world. The place is not
only entertaining in itself, but in its neighborhood are a large number of easily
accessible gorges, lakes and hilltops full of artistic material and of trout fishing;
or, if the tourist goes late in the season, of good shooting and ample opportunity for
dangerous adventures in mountaineering. The Little Cottonwood canon is one of
those great crevices between the peaks of the Wasatch Range, plainly visible from
Salt Lake City, and distinguished by its white walls, which, when wet with the
morning dews, gleam like monstrous mirrors as the sunlight reaches them from
over the top of the range.

The River Jordan. After' the valley of Utah Lake has been left
behind, en route to Salt Lake City, on the left of the track is seen a small river of
yel'ow water meandering through the sage brush and volcanic scoria. The river
is the Jordan, so called because it connects the Utah with the Great Salt Lake, as
its namesake does Galilee and the Dead Sea.

Forty-one years ago Brigham Young stood on
Ensign Peak, the "Mount of Prophesy," and an-
nounced to his followers that down in the valley

SALT LAKE CITY,

Capital of Utah

Elevation, 4,338 feet.

Distance from Denver,

735 mil — .

below should be founded the new " City of Zion,"

Tei the future home of the Latter Day Saints. Up to

Population, 25,000. tfae original settlers virtually lived apart from

the rest of the world. This was owing to the
religious views of the Mormons, which made them
a peculiar and isolated people. To mining is due
the first incursion of Gentile population, which
population has steadily increased, until at present the community of Salt
Lake City differs but little from any other in its social, business or religious
aspect, except that it possesses, in addition to the accepted religious associations
which exist elsewhere, one which differs from all others. The city is situated at
the base of the Wasatch Mountains, which are a part of the great Continental
Range dividing the Far West from the plains which extend from the base of the
Rockies to the Missouri River. The finest residence portion of the city occupies
the mountain bench, once the shore of a great inland sea, from which, ages ago,
the waters receded until they settled in the basin of the Great Salt Lake, distant
eighteen miles from the water marks yet plainly to be seen above the city. The
location is such as to command a view of the entire valley, both ranges of mount-
ains, and the southern portion of the lake. The streets are one hundred and thirty-

OVER THE RANGE.

two feet wide and bordered on each side with long rows of shade trees. Streams
of pure water are conducted in ditches along both sides of all the streets. The
business sections are well built. One of the largest business enterprises of the city
is the Cooperative Establishment. For convenience it is universally called the
" Co-op," its title in full is the " Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution." It
has a central building for headquarters and branches throughout the city and Ter-
tority Whenever one sees a building with the mystic initials " Z C. M. I." on
its sign, one may know it Is a branch of the great " Co-op." The headquarters of
this institution are of brick, three hundred and eighteen by fifty-three feet in size,
three stories high, and built over a large cellar. This building is crowded with
merchandise of every description, and does an extensive wholesale and retail busi-
ness. " Temple Square" is a great attraction for the tourist. Here are situated
the Mormon Temple, Tabernacle and Assembly Hall. The Tabernacle is immense
in its proportions, the roof resembling an upturned boat, and is visible from nearly
every part of the city. The Temple is still unfinished, but even now its massive
walls of granite bespeak the future magnificence of the edifice. Near by is the
Bee Hive, once the home of Brigham Young and opposite the house of President
Taylor. The Hot Springs of Salt Lake are highly medicinal, and the large
baths are resorted to for many ailments. Within a short radius of the city the attrac-
tions are varied and numerous. Fort Douglass, the Lake, Emigration City, Bing-
ham, Little and Big Cottonwood Canons are easily reached. From Ensign Peak a
panoramic view of the surrounding country is had. One may look from it down the
greater part of Utah's length, while near at hand lie the city and lake. The Fort
is also a popular resort, and not only commands an extensive view, but affords
excellent opportunities of studying garrison life. The rides, drives and rambles
are innumerable. Every taste is catered to. For those who love grandeur, there
are the mountains, with their narrow trails, secluded parks, wild canons and
deep gorges ; for those preferring gentler aspects, the valley, glowing with
freshness, affords continual pleasure ; for those craving the mysterious, there
is the lake, large, silent and strange. The hotels are excellent, the climate
unexcelled, and days may be passed delightfully in exploring and in study-
ing the wealth of attractions. There are theatres, reading rooms, good horses,
perfect order and universal ckanliness. Many of the private houses are palatial,
and altogether the city is one of rare beauty and interest.

As far as can be learned, the first mention in
history of the Great Salt Lake was by the Baron La
Houtan, in 1689, who gathered from the Western
Indians some vague notions of its existence. Capt.
Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833
to make its circuit, but they seem to have given up
the enterprise on reaching the desert on the north-
west, on which they lost their way, and after weeks
of aimless wandering found themselves in Lower
California. To General John C. Fremont must be
given the credit of first navigating its waters. In
1842, on his way to Oregon, General Fremont pushed out from the mouth
of Webber River, in a rubber boat, for the nearest island. He found it to be
a desolate rock, fourteen miles in circumference and named it Disappointment
Island. Captain Stansbury, on a subsequent visit, renamed it Fremont's Island,
which name is retained. In 1850 Captain Stansbury spent three months in
making a detailed survey of the Lake, its shores and islands. In brief he

GREAT SALT LAKE.

Area, 2,500 square
miles.

Mean Depth, 20 feet.

Specific Gravity, 1.107.

Length, 136 miles.

Breadth, 45 miles.

64 OVER THE RANGE.

found the west shore a salt-encrusted desert ; the north shore composed of wide
salt marshes, overflowed under steady winds from the south ; the east shore pos-
sessed good, irrigable lands; the south shore was set with mountain ranges standing
endways towards the lake, with the grassy valleys, Spring, Toelle and Jordan, in-
tervening. The principal islands are Antelope and Stansbury rocky ridges rang-
ing north and south, rising abruptly from the water to a height of three thousand
feet. Antelope is the nearest to Salt Lake City and is sixteen miles long. Stans-
bury H» twenty miles to the westward and is twelve miles in length. Both have
springs of fresh water and good range for the stock, with which they are now cov-
ered. Of minor islands there are Fremont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud,
Egg and Hat, besides several small insular promontories without names. The
first white man's boat to navigate the lake was probab'y that of Fremont ; Captain
Stansbury came next with his exploring boat curiously named the " Salicornia";
next in order were the Walker brothers, merchants of Salt Lake City, who sailed
for some years a lonesome pleasure yacht. There is now a considerable yachting
fleet, which is yearly growing in size. The lake covers an area of 2, 500 square
miles. Its mean depth do^s not probably exceed twenty feet, while the deepest
place between Antelope and Stansbury is 60 feet. These two principal islands
used to be accessible from the shore by wagon, but now boats must be used. From
1847 to I^56 the lake gradually filled five or six feet and then slowly subsided to its
old level. In 1863 it began to fill again and in four or five years reached a point
considerably higher than its present level, perhaps four or five feet. In the year
1875 a pillar was set up at Black Rock, by which to measure the rise and fall,
resembling a tide, but having no ascertained time. It is very slight compared with
what it formerly was. Professor Gilbert, of the Geological Survey, says that twice
within recent geological time it has risen nearly a thousand feet higher than its
present stage, and, of course, covered vastly more ground. He calls that lake after
Captain Bonneville, the original explorer of these regions and whom Irving has
immortalized. Lake Bonneville. Causes which learned men assign as producing
what they call a glacial period might easily fill the lake until it extended nearly the
whole length of Utah. During the last high stage, Professor Gilbert says there
were active volcanoes in it. It is generally agreed that its first outbreak was via
Marsh Creek, and the Portneuf into the Snake At the present height of that
channel (where the Utah and Northern passes out of Cache Valley) it remained a
long time stationary and then seems to have receded rapidly to a second station-
ary point, and so on down to its present stage. There is one very heavy beach-
mark on all the hills surrounding its extended area and on the hills, which were
then islands, and a curious thing is the fact that this beach-mark varies in altitude
from one hundred to three hundred feet, showing that the earth in this valley is
still far from having reached a stable equilibrium.

The most mysterious thing about this inland sea, aside from its saltness, is the
fact that it has no known outlet. A great number of fresh water streams pour
into the lake from all sides, yet the water remains salt and the lake does not over-
flow. The saline or solid matter held in solution by the water varies as the lake
rises and subsides. In 1842 Fremont obtained " fourteen pints of very white salt "
from five gallons of the water evaporated over a camp fire. The salt was also very
pure, assaying 97.80 fine. In 1850 Dr. L. D. Gale analyzed a sample of it which
yielded 20 per cent, of pure common salt, and about 2 per cent, of foreign salts,
chlorides of lime and magnesia. Sergeant Smart, U. S. A., analyzed a sample in
1877, and found an imperial gallon to contain nearly 24^ ounces of saline matter,
amounting to 14 per cent., as follows :

OVER THE RANGE

Common salt n-735

Lime carbonate .016

Lime sulphate .073

Epsom salt - 1.123

Chloride of magnesia .843

Percentage of solids I3-79Q

Water .. 86.210

One hundred grains of the dry solid
matter contained :

Common salt 85.089

Lime carbonate .117

Lime sulphate _ .531

Epsom salt... ._ 8.145

Chloride of magnesia 6.118

100.

It compares with other saline waters
about as follows :

Atlantic Ocean

Mediterranean

Dead Sea

Great Salt Lake . .

Water.

96.5
96.2
76.

86.

Solids.

-- 3-5
.- 3-8

... 24.

... 14.

And in specific gravity, distilled
water being unity :

Ocean water 1 .026

Dead Sea 1.116

Great Salt Lake 1.107

The solid matter in the water varies between spring and fall, between dry and
wet seasons, and also between different parts of the lake, for nearly all the fresh
water is received from the Wasatch on the east. It is the opinion of salt makers
that an average of the lake at its present stage would show the presence of 17 per
cent of solid matter.

Within a comparatively recent date, Salt Lake has become a fashionable
bathing resort. In the long sunny days of July, August and September, the
water becomes deliciously warm, much warmer in fact than the ocean, and this
pleasant temperature is reached a month earlier and remains a month later. The
water is so dense that one is sustained without effort, and vigorous constitutions
•experience no inconvenience from remaining in it a long time. A more delightful

BEE HIVE HOUSE.

'10 THE GOLDEN GATE. 67

and healthy exercise than buffeting its waves when it is a little rough can hardly
be imagined. There are two popular bathing resorts on the Lake, near Salt Lake
City.

. Lake Park is situated on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, seventeen
miles from Salt Lake City, and nineteen from Ogden. Located as it is between
the two most important towns in the territory, Lake Park is in a position to com-
mand a large patronage from both cities. During the season bathing trains are
run almost hourly from Salt Lake City to the Park, these trains make it possible
for all transcontinental travelers stopping off at Salt Lake City to have a bath in
the great dead sea. Each of the elegant bath rooms is fitted with fresh water
shower bath, stationary wash bowls, mirrors, chairs, incandescent electric lights,
etc., making Lake Park one of the most attractive watering places on the continent.
There is a first class restaurant and exchange, and in the elegant Moorish
pavillion on the lake shore, a band plays popular music to which the visitors can
dance on the wide and level floor entirely free of extra expense. All through trains
stop at this charming resort.

Garfield Beacll is the old bathing resort, twenty miles west of Salt Lake
City. It is situated on the Utah & Nevada Railroad, and great improvements
have recently been made here. There is a large and commodious hotel, and
extensive bath houses have been erected. Garfield Beach shares with Lake Park in
the esteem and patronage of the people.

Salt Lake to Ogden. From Salt Lake to Ogden the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad traverses a narrow plain. On the west lie? the Great Salt Lake,
while to the north rise the serrated peaks of the Wasatch Mountains. This region
is under a high state of cultivation. Farms reach their golden or green fields over
its length and breadth, and little streams run in bright threads out of the mountain
canons down across the meadows. The lake is in full view of the traveler most of
the way, and is a never-ending source of interest. The train speeds on, and enter-
ing an amphitheatre, set around with mountains, reaches Ogden, the western
terminus of ihe Denver & Rio Grande and Union Pacific Railroads. (Popula-
tion, 10,000. Distance from Denver, 771 miles. Elevation, 4,286 feet.)

QUEEN'S CANON

GRAND CANON, FROM TO-RO-WASP.

PUEBLO TO ALAMOSA.

ROM Pueblo to Cuchara Junction, a distance of 75 miles, the railroad
extends to the southward across the plains, which stretch in one
vast unbroken expanse to the eastern horizon, while to the west lies
the ( .reenhorn Range with its intervening foothills.

SpUIlisll Peaks. To the south rise the famed Spanish Peaks,
springing directly from the plains, remarkable for their symmetry of outline,
and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 feet. The Indians,
with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these beautiful mountains " Wahatoya,"
or twin breasts. As a matter of orthographical interest, the reader may be pleased
to know that the Indian spelling of the word is as follows : " Huacjatollas ! "

Trinidad Branch. From Cuchara Junction, one line- of the road
extends in a southern direction to Trinidad, the largest city in Southern Colorado
and i he centre of the famous coal measures of El Moro.

This branch of the road does not pass directly through grand scenery, as it
extends to the southward across the plains, and to the east of the mountains ; but
the line is of great commercial importance, as by its connections at Trinidad it
affords a direct through route to the Gulf of Mexico. Locally, also, it is of especial
importance as El Moro and Trinidad are in the heart of one of the greatest coal
regions in the west, and the agricultural and pastoral industries of the plains are of
large proportions. From Cuchara Junction the stations occur in the following
order : Tuna, Rouse Junction, Santa Clara, Boaz, Apishapa, Barnes, Chicosa and
El Moro.

El Moro is worthy of special mention because of its extensive coal mines
and coking ovens ; the latter are 250 in number, and the greatest in the State.
The town derives its name from the great butte (El Moro) which towers above it,
presenting a very striking object to the view. (Population, 200. Distance from
Denver, 206 miles. Elevation, 5,879 feet.)

This is the metropolis of southeastern Colo-
rado, and the terminus of this branch of the Denver
& Rio Grande Railroad. Trinidad is the trade and
money centre for an immense territory, including
portions of northern Texas, southern Colorado and
northern New Mexico. In natural resources,
Trinidad is exceedingly rich, being the centre of
the largest coal belt in the world, and the supply
depot for most of the coke used in the Great West.
In addition to coal and coke in the immediate
vicinity, iron exists in unlimited quantities. The
supply of gypsum, granite, alum, fire-clay, silica,

grit or grindstone, limestone and the finest of building stone is absolutely
inexhaustible. Trinidad, from the natural deposits alone, must of necessity
become a manufacturing centre of vast importance, and has already taken ad vanf "»d

TRINIDAD.

Commercial and Manu-
facturing City.

Population,

6.OOO.
Elevation,
5,994 feet

Distance from Denver.
21O miles.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 71

steps in this regard. A $200,000 rolling mill is now under way. The manufacture
of cement, mineral paint, lime, and plaster of paris, are all important industries,
while the production of building brick is very large in its proportions. Fire-brick
and silica brick will soon be an additional industry. In and around Trinidad no-
less than three thousand laborers are now employed, and this large and daily
increasing number of men spend their money in Trinidad. The city has water-
works, gas-works, electric light, street cars, and other metropolitan improvements.
The schools and churches are very superior, while the business houses and
residences are a credit to the city. Its elevation above the level of the sea insures
a delightful climate, free from malaria and other poisons common to lower
altitudes, while the scenic surroundings are unsurpassed. Raton Peak and the
distant range adding their grandeur to the beauty of the scene. Trinidad is a
railroad centre, with three great trunk lines already in operation, with three more
moving toward it ; is the most important wool centre in Colorado, being the
original market for 3,000,000 pounds, and is also a great cattle centre and, for
that reason, the largest hide and pelt-receiving point of the State. Resuming the
journey to Alamosa, the tourist returns to

Cuchara Junction. A small town at the junction of the New Mexico
and Trinidad extensions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The supporting
industries are pastoral and agricultural pursuits. (Population, 25. Distance from
Denver, 169 miles. Elevation, 5.942 feet.)

"Walsens, A flourishing town doing a large business, both at home and
abroad. It is surrounded by a fine pastoral country, and also derives revenue from
agriculture. Coal is mined near here in large quantities. (Population, 1,000.
Distance from Denver, 176 miles. Elevation, 6,189 feet.)

L<a Veta. A prosperous village, surrounded by a pastoral country and in the
midst of most beautiful scenery, being near the foothills of La Veta Mountain and
the famous pass known by the same name. The Spanish Peaks are also in plain
view to the east. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 191 miles. Eleva-
tion, 7,024 feet.)

The ascent of this famous pass is one of the
great engineering achievements of the Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad. The line follows the ravine
formed by a little stream, La Veta Mountain
rising to the right. At the head of this gulch is
the wonderful " Mule-Shoe Curve," the sharpest
curve of the kind known in railroad engineering.
In the centre of the bend is a bridge, and the
sparkling waters of the mountain stream can be
seen flashing and foaming in their rocky bed
below. Standing on the rear platform of the Pullman car as the train rounds the
curve, the tourist can see the fireman and engineer attending to their duties. From
this point the ascent of Dump Mountain begins, rocks and precipitous escarpments
of shaley soil to the right and perpendicular cliffs and chasms to the left. The
ascent is slowly made, two great Mogul engines urging their iron sinews to the
giant task. The view to the eastward is one of great extent and magnificence.
The plains stretch onward to the dim horizon line like a gently undulating ocean,
from which rise the twin cones of Wahatoya, strangely fascinating in their sym-
metrical beauty. At the summit of the pass the railroad reaches an elevation of
9.393 feet above the sea.

Veta Mountain is to the right, as the ascent of the pass is made, and rises

VETA PASS.

Elevation, 9,393 feet.

Maximum Grade, 211
feet to the mile.

Distance Across Pass,
13 miles.

OVER THE RANGE

CLIMBING THE MOUNTAINS AT VETA PASS.

with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 feet above the sea.
The stupendous proportions of this mountain, the illimitable expanse of the plains,
the symmetrical cones of the Spanish Peaks present a picture upon which it is a
never-ceasing delight for the eye to dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its
winding course, and at last reaching the apex, glides into the timber and halts at
the handsome stone station over 9,000 feet above the level of the distant sea. The
downward journey is past Sierra Blanca and old Fort Garland and through that
pastoral and picturesque valley known as San Luis Park.

Placer. At Placer, one can say that the descent of Veta Pass has been
accomplished, although it is still down grade as far as Alamosa. This little town
is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at the western extrem-
ity of La Veta Pass. Good hunting and fishing can be found in the neighboring
foothills. The tributary industries are agriculture and stock raising. (Population,
75 Distance from Denver, 212 miles. Elevation, 8,410 feet.)

SIERRA BLANCA

Highest Mountain

of
The Rocky Range.

Elevation,
14,464 feet,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. *3

Garland. This town was formerly known as Fort Garland, and was a
United States military post. Sierra Blanca, elevation, 14,464 feet, the highest
mountain in the United States with one exception, is seventeen miles distant. Good
trout fishing and shooting can be found in the adjacent foothills. Garland's tribu-
tary industries are agriculture and stock raising. (Population, 200. Distance from
Denver, 325 miles. Elevation, 8,945 feet.)

_ _ ^____^__^^-____ Sierra Blanca is the monarch of the Rocky

Range, and is characterized by the peculiarity of a
triple peak. The mountain rises directly from the
plain to the stupendous height of 14,464 feet, over
two miles and three-fifths of sheer ascent. A
magnificent view of this mountain is obtained from
the cars as soon as the descent from Veta Pass
into the San Luis Valley has been made. Surely it
is worth a journey across the continent to obtain
a view of such a mountain ! Although a part of the range, it stands at the head of
the valley, like a monarch taking precedence of a lordly retinue. Two-thirds of its
height is above timber-line, bare and desolate, and except for a month or two
of midsummer, dazzling white with snow, while in its abysmal gorges it holds
<cternal reservoirs of ice.

" Oh, sacred mount with kingly crest

Through tideless ether reaching,
The earth world kneels to hear the prayer

Thy dusky slopes are teaching.
With mystic glow on sunset eyes
All trembling lie thy blood-red leaves,
Their silken veins with gold inwrought.
Oh, glorious is thy world-wide thought ! "

The lower slopes of the mountain are clad in vast forests of pine and hemlock,
•while its grand triad of gray granite peaks lift into the sky their sharp pyramidal
pinnacles, splintered and furrowed by the storm-compelling and omnipotent hand
of the Almighty. To the north and south, for a distance of nearly two hundred
miles, it is flanked by the serrated crests of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the whole
forming a panorama of unexampled grandeur and beauty.

San Luis Park. This great and fertile valley is located in Southern
Colorado, bordering New Mexico, and is drained by the Rio Grande, one of the
largest of Colorado's rivers, into which flows from the lofty mountain ranges sur-
rounding the park, almost numberless little mountain streams. This park, which
was once the bottom of a vast mountain lake, contains fully 10,000 square miles —
equal to the entire area of Massachusetts. The soil is alluvial, from six to fifteen
feet deep, and the surface is naturally well adapted for irrigation, which the rivers
and streams in the park are abundantly capable of providing. The park, or valley,
as it is frequently called, is from 7,000 to 7,300 feet above sea level. This eleva-
tion insures a light, pure atmosphere, free from all malarial conditions, and espe-
cially favorable for those disposed to pulmonary affections. The climate is cool in
the summer, and not severe in the winter — scarcely ever more than an occasional
-snowfall of two or three inches in the valley. Too much in praise of the attractions
and beauty of the climate of the San Luis Valley cannot be said. The grand
•chains of mountains, which entirely surround the park, present scenery unsurpassed
in the world. Spring wheat will yield from thirty to fifty bushels to the acre, oats
irom fifty to seventy-five bushels, peas from thirty to forty bushels, potatoes from

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 75

two hundred to three hundred bushels to the acre ; beans, cabbage, all kinds of
root crops, are unexcelled anywhere. Hops do well ; tomatoes and melons are
grown, but with some effort. Corn, in consequence of the elevation, except for
garden purposes, does not pay. Alfalfa — the clover of the mountains — does well,
yielding from four to six tons in two cuttings. Common red clover, timothy and
red top, do well. The native grasses, by irrigation, yield two tons per acre. All
kinds of small fruit do exceedingly well. Grapes are untried, but it is believed they
will succeed. Apples and cherries do well; plums and pears may, but peaches
cannot, be grown. Surrounding the valley, embracing the foot hills and lower
mountain ranges, is a range covering millions of acres, where cattle, horses and
sheep can feed for nine months in the year. The grasses are more abundant and
nutritious than upon the lower elevations. The stock so grazed upon these free
ranges in the summer and fed upon the home farms in the valley in the winter, can
be handled without hazard, and with certainty of profitable return to the farmer
and large ranchmen.

This is one of the most considerable towns of
the San Luis Valley. It is situated on the west
bank of the Rio Grande River and at the junction

ALAMOSA.

Junctioiial City.

of the New Mexico & Wagon Wheel Gap branches

of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The re-
Population, 1,200.

Distance from Denver,

25O Miles.

Alamosa.
Elevation, 7, 546 feet.

The town is well supplied with stores of all

sources of the San Luis Valley have been described
above, and it goes without saying that these re-
sources are naturally tributary to the welfare of

kinds, some of which carry large stocks of goods.
Great quantities of hay and grain, and farm produce generally, are shipped
from this station, which also commands a large local trade. Within a short
distance of the town a natural gas supply has been discovered, which only
needs adequate development to make it an element of great prosperity to the city.
The eating house at Alamosa, while unpretentious in its exterior, furnishes one of
the best meals to be obtained anywhere, and has a wide-spread and well-deserved
reputation. The scenery surrounding the town is grand, and the near proximity of
the river makes it a favorite resort for sportsmen.

Wag-Oil Wheel Gap Branch. From Alamosa a branch of the Den-
ver & Rio Grande extends up the valley a distance of sixty-one miles to the great
hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap. The line passes through an exceedingly fertile
agricultural country lying on both sides of the Rio Grande and irrigated by the
great canals taken out from the river. In the proper season of the year thousands
of acres of wheat and oats, alfalfa and other farm produce can be seen growing in
the greatest luxuriance on both sides of the track.

Moilte Vista. This flourishing town is an example of rapid growth and
a proof of the self-sustaining character of the country. It is not yet five years old
and is already beginning to assume the airs of a city. The surrounding country is
full of coal, oil and gas. Very rich mines are being developed (ore running from
$1,000 to $2,000 per ton) in the mountains southwest of Monte Vista, which is
located in the midst of 300,000 acres of the richest irrigable land with abundance
of water to supply it. Monte Vista is a new, growing, enterprising prohibition
town and has a superior class of citizens. It is rapidly becoming an extra desirable
residence locality. It has a first class roller process flouring mill, fifteen stores,
two banks, a planing mill, three lumber yards, three weekly papers, three livery

OVER THE RANGE.

SUMMIT OF VETA MOUNTAIN.

stables, large public library, an $8,000 school-house, a $75,000 hotel, seven church
organizations, a secular Sunday society, secret societies, military company, cornet
band, etc. In the vicinity is one farm of 7,000 and another of 4.000 acres. (Pop-
ulation, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 267 miles Elevation, 7,665 feet.)

!><'! Norte. This is the oldest town in what is known as the San Juan
country and is the county seat of Rio Grande county. The town site was surveyed
in 1872, though the town company was formed in 1871. The town is so situated
as to be upon the line between the agricultural and mining sections. To the north
and east of the town are the rich and rapidly settling agricultural and pastoral
lands of the San Luis Valley ; to the south and west are the great mines of San
Juan. Del Norte is beautifully situated in a basin at the foot of the mountains,
sheltered from the blasts of winter and having the most delightful weather in sum-
mer. The Rio Grande flows through the edge of the Del Norte town site, and
offrrs to manufacturing interests exceptionally fine water power. Del Norte
has some excellent business and dwelling houses, a fine public school building, two
good church buildings— above the average, the Presbyterian College of the South-

OVER THE RANGE.

west (a staunch educational institution), a fine flouring mill of the latest roller
process, a large brewery using home-grown barley, two banks, a court house cost-
ing $30,000, the United States land office, where all business regarding lands in
this district must be transacted, and countless other enterprises that cannot be men-
tioned here. On Lookout Mountain, 600 feet above the town, is mounted a large
telescope, to be used in connection with the Presbyterian College of the Southwest.
The view from the Lookout observatory is grand in the extreme. The streets of
Del Norte are wide, and the town is noted for its growth of trees — mostly cotton-
woods. Water for irrigating purposes is supplied by means of a main canal from
the Rio Grande, with laterals over the town site along the sides of streets. The
•distance from Del Norte to the following points is: To Alamosa, 30 miles ; to
Saguache, 35 miles ; to Villa Grove, 45 miles ; to Monte Vista, 15 miles ; to Vet-
eran, 18 miles ; to Summitville, 27 miles ; to Wagon Wheel Gap, 30 miles ; to
Shaw's Springs, 6 miles ; to Carnero, 25 miles. Del Norte is certainly a very
attractive town. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 281 miles. Eleva-
tion, 7,880 feet.)

From Del Norte the line follows closely up the river amidst most attractive
scenery. South Fork is a small station on the river and is a favorite stopping
place for anglers.

The hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, together
with the magnificence of the scenery, make it one
of the most attractive pleasure resorts in Colorado.
As the Gap is approached the valley narrows until
the river is hemmed in between massive walls of
solid rock, that rise to such a height on either side
as to throw the passage into a twilight shadow.
The river rushes roaring down over gleaming gravel
-or precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene becomes wilder and more romantic,
until at last the waters of the Rio Grande pour through a cleft in the rocks just
wide enough to allow the construction of a road at the
river's edge. On the right, as one enters, tower cliffs to a
tremendous height, suggestive in
their appearance of the palisades
on the Hudson. On the left rises
the round shoulder of a massive
mountain. The vast wall is un-
broken for more than half a mile,
its crest presenting an almost un-
serrated sky line. Once through
the gap the traveler looking to the
south sees a valley encroached
upon and surrounded by hills.
Here is the old stage station, a
primitive and picturesque structure
of hewn logs and adobe, one story
in height, facing the south, and
made cool and inviting by wide-
roofed verandas extending along
its entire front. Not a hundred
feet away rolls the Rio Grande,
UP THE RIO GRANDE swarming with trout. A drive of

WAGON WHEEL GAP
HOT SPRINGS.

Distance from Denver,
311 miles.

Elevation, 8,449 feet.

80 OVER THE RANGE.

a. mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals new scenic beauties, brings
the tourist to the famous springs. The medicinal qualities of the waters, both of
the cold and hot springs, have been thoroughly tested and proved to be of a
very superior quality. Lieutenant Wheeler, U. S. A., gives the following analysis
of these springs : No. I has a temperature of about 150° Fahrenheit, is bubbling
continually, and is about eight feet wide by twelve feet long ; No. 2 is a small
bubbling spring, cold, about one foot in diameter, and gives out a strong odor of
sulphuretted hydrogen ; No. 3 is situated some distance from Nos. I and 2, at the
foot of a hill ; it bubbles continually and is of a temperature of 140° Fahrenheit.
This spring is about three feet wide and the same in length ; it is called the Soda
Spring. In one thousand parts of the water of the springs of Wagon Wheel
Gap are contained parts as follows :

No. i. No. 2. No. j>.

Sodium Carbonate 69.42 Trace. 144.50

Lithium Carbonate Trace Trace. Trace.

Calcium Carbonate 14.08 31.00 22.42

Magnesium Carbonate 10.91 5.10 22.42

Potassium Sulphate Trace. Trace. Trace.

Sodium Sulphate .. . 23.73 10.50 13.76

Sodium Chloride _ 29.25 11.72 33-34

Silicic Acid 5.73 1.07 4.72

Organic Matter Trace. Trace.

Sulphuretted Hydrogen . .. Trace. 12.00

Total 152.12 71.39 218.77

Antelope Spring's. Twenty miles west of Wagon Wheel Gap, in Ante-
i s,* Park, are situated Antelope Springs, in a region which is becoming a great
resort for sportsmen and abounding in fish and game. The waters of the springs
are medicinal and resemble the more widely-known mineral waters of the Gap,
in that they are both hot and cold and differ among themselves in their mineral
constituents. The scenery is wild and beautiful. For a hunting party, or as a
place for a few days' outing in camp, no more pleasing spot can be found.

Trout Fishing" in the Rio Grande, There is no stream on the
eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains that affords finer trout fishing than the Rio
Grande. Trout reaching the wonderful weight of nine pounds have been fre-
quently taken and those weighing from one to three pounds can be caught in great
abundance. This is undoubtedly one of the best fishing resorts in America.

ALAMOSA TO ESPANOLA AND SANTA FE.

HE New Mexico branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
extends southward from Alamosa to Espaiiola, passing through an
interesting country to the tourist, especially after New Mexico
has been entered. Here can be seen what remains of the ancient
Spanish civilization, as well as the habitations of the Pueblo Indians
and the ruins of the pre-historic Cliff Dwellers. Leaving Alamosa the road turns
to the south and crosses the southern portion of the San Luis valley.

VX/-V— _, :

EMBUDO, RIO GRANDE VALLEY.

La Jara. Within the last three years many new towns have sprung up in
the valley, owing to the development of its agricultural industries, through the con-
struction of great irrigating canals. Old settlements have acquired new vigor and
advanced greatly in prosperity. La Jara is one of the towns that has received this
new impulse. Its people are enterprising and industrious. Agriculture and pas-
Si

82 OVER THE RANGE

toral pursuits contribute to the town's success. (Population, 250. Distance from
Denver, 265 miles. Elevation, 7,609 feet )

^laiiiisa. This is the village for a colony of Mormons, which has been
established near Antonito. These Mormons do not practice polygamy and are
industrious and law abiding citizens.

AlltOllito. This town is a thriving and prosperous place, the last one of
any special importance on the railroad in the southern part of the San Luis valley.
Stock raising and agriculture occupy the attenti n of the surrounding population
There is a fine stone depot here, and there are many creditable business blocks. It
is the station for Conejos, one mile distant; for Manasa, a large and prosperous
Mormon settlement, in which polygamy is not practiced, eight miles distant, and
for San Rafael, four miles distant. Its position in the heart of the San Luis valley
(for full description of which see Alamosa) insures it a generous and constantly
increasing support from agricultural and pastoral industries. Being the junctional
point of the Denver & Rio Grande railroad's New Mexico and San Juan branches

OLD CHURCH OF SAN JUAN.

gives it a large railroad business. Tourists will do well to stop at Antonito and
visit the old Mexican town of Conejos, which is the most accessible town of the
typical Mexican character in Colorado. Here may be found the plazas, churches
and ancient adobe houses peculiar to the early civilization of the Spanish. Fine
fishing can be found near Antonito. Antonito itself is a modern town with all the
life and push of the American, full of business and enterprise. (Population, 250,.
Distance from Denver, 279 miles. Elevation, 7,888 feet.)

JPallllilla is twenty-three miles from Antonito, and here the road enters the
Territory of New Mexico and passes through a number of small stations of no
especial interest to the tourist. As a matter of statistics, the names of these stations
and their distances from Denver are given: Palmilla, 290 miles. Volcano, 297 miles.
No Agua, 306 miles. Tres Piedras, 313 miles. Serviletta, 323 miles. Caliente, 335
miles. Barranca, 344 miles. Comanche, 346 miles. Embudo, 351 miles. Alcalde,
3*9 miles. Chamita, 365 miles. Espanola, 370 miles. The traveler will notice
vnat the names of the stations have assumed a Spanish form, and should he happen
x> address any of the swarthy men that chance to be lounging around the sta

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

A TYPICAL MEXICAN.

tions, he would be very likely to receive a reply in the language of Hispania,
The Spanish spoken is not Castilian by any means, but is about as near it a'
"pidgin English" is to genuine Chinese, being a mixture of English, Spanish
and Indian dialects.

Barranca is a quiet little station in New
Mexico, 343 miles from Denver. Its only claim for
special mention is the fact that here the traveler
takes the stage for Ojo Caliente, the celebrated
hot springs, which lie among the hills, eleven
miles to the westward. Stages to and from the
springs connect with passenger trains, making quick
time over an excellent road. The altitude of the
springs is about 6,000 feet, and the climate at all
seasons of the year mild and pleasant. The springs
have been noted for their curative properties from time immemorial, having been
frequented by the Indians previous to Spanish occupation and highly esteemed by

OJO CALIENTE.

Famous Hot Springs.

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

Elevation, 7,324 feet.

0 VER THE RA NGE.

both races since that date. They have proved remarkably successful in the treat-
ment of rheumatism, skin diseases, derangement ot the kidneys and bladder, and
especially of all venereal diseases. Cases of paralysis, after resisting the usual
appliances of medicine, have been sent to Ojo Caliente, and immediately and per-
manently relieved. The springs lie in a pleasant valley, one thousand feet lower
than Barranca, surrounded by high bluffs capped with basaltic cliffs. On the top
of these cliffs are table-lands on which are found the ruins of prehistoric buildings,
not unlike the Indian pueblos of the present day, but of which the Indians know
nothing and even their traditions furnish no account. Four miles above the village
are larger springs of tepid water, the mineral deposits from which have built up
great mounds, full of strange caves and glittering with saline incrustations. About
three miles from Ojo Caliente is a high mountain called Cerro Colorado, from its
peculiar reddish brown color, which, according to the statement of the inhabitants,

exhibited marked evidences of vol-
canic action only fifty-four years
ago. It has a well defined crater,
and offers an inviting field for the
investigations of the geologist.

Comanche Canon. Six
miles below Barranca the train en-
ters Comanche Canon. Through
this canon the road makes its
descent into the Rio Grande Valley.
Rugged, difficult and striking, the
canon commands the admiration of
the spectator. Through breaks in
the walls can be caught glimpses
of the valley and river, the noble
Rio Grande beneath. Experienced
travelers who have made the "grand
tour" say that this scene resembles
choice bits in Switzerland. Ernest
Ingersoll thus describes the valley
in his charming book, " The Crest
of the Continent" : "Emerging
from Comanche Canon, a bend to
PUEBLO INDIANS. the southward is made along the

western bank of the lower part

of the cafion of the Rio Grande In many portions of this narrow valley, only
about twenty miles in length, features of great interest to the eye occur, equalling
the walls of Comanche, which was itself ignored until the railway brought it to
light. The river here is about sixty yards wide, and pours with a swift current
troubled by innumerable fallen rocks. At times it is swollen and yellow with the
drift of late rains, but in clear weather its waters are bright and blue, for it has not
yet soiled its color with the fine silt which will thicken it between Texas and
Mexico. On the opposite bank, near the level of the river, runs the wagon road
that General Edward Hatch, formerly commander of the department of New
Mexico, cut some years ago to give ready communication between his headquarters
at Santa Ke and the posts in the northern part of the Territory and in southern Col-
orado. This is the track now followed by all teamsters, but the old road from the
south to Taos ran over the hills far to the east ward, passing through Picuris."

86 OVER THE RANGE

Embudo. At the mouth of Comanche Canon stands an odd conical hill
dividing the current of the river. Noticing its resemblance to a funnel the Mexi-
cans called it Embudo, and the station here takes the same name. Embudo is
chiefly important as the point of departure for Taos, whose remarkable pueblo is
described further on.

Kspaiiolu. This little village is the southern terminus of the Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad, and is of interest to the tourist because of its contiguity to
ancient pueblos and the ruins of Cliff dwellings. The Texas, Santa Fe &
Northern Railroad connects here with the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and by
it the journey is continued to Santa Fe. Espafiola's tributary industries are
pastoral and agricultural. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 370 miles.
Elevation, 5,590 feet.)

Places of interest near Espanola.

Santa Cruz is a most interesting old Mexican town,
situated on the Rio Grande del Norte, directly
opposite Espanola. Its chief attraction is the
ancient church erected in the sixteenth century,
which contains several paintings and images sent
over from Spain.

The Pueblo of San Juan is situated on
the Rio Grande, about four miles above Espanola,
and one and one-half mile from the railroad

SANTA CRUZ.

PUEBLO OF SAN JUAN,

PUEBLO DE TAOS.

There are twenty-six similar Indian towns, nineteen of which are situated in New
Mexico, and seven in Arizona. Nine of them are on the line of the Denver &
Rio Grande Railway, or its immediate vicinity, viz.: Taos, Picurio, San Juan,
Santa Clara, San Yldefonso, Pojuaque, Nombe, Cuyamauque and Tesuque. The

NEW MEXICAN LIFE

different pueblos closely resemble each other in construction. The dwellings are
all built of mud-colored adobes, or sun dried bricks, and are arranged so as to
inclose a plaza or public square. The walls are from two to four feet in thickness,
and the roofs are yf timbers, covered with dirt a foot or more in depth; many
houses art two, anj some even four and five stories, or rather terraces, in height,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 87

each successive story being set back some twelve or fifteen feet from the side walls
of the next story below. The usual manner of entering these dwellings is by
ascending a ladder outside the building to the roof, and through a hole descending
to the interior by another ladder; though some, as a modern improvement, have
doors cut through the side walls. This method was doubtless adopted as a
defensive measure during troublesome times, when it was often necessary to con vert
the pueblo into a fortress from which to repel hostile invasions.

Pueblo of Santa Clara. A few miles below the pueblo of San Juan
is the pueblo of Santa Clara, just across the river from Chamita, a station on the
Denver & Rio Grande line. Its characteristics are similar to those of the pueblos
already described.

The Pueblo de Taos. Twenty miles above Embudo is the Pueblo de
Taos. This is considered the most interesting as well as the most perfect specimen
of a Pueblo Indian fortress. It consists of two communistic houses, each five
stories high, and a Roman Catholic church, now in a ruined condition, which
stands near, although apart from, the dwellings. Around the fortress are seven
circular mounds, which at first suggest the idea of being the work of Mound
Builders. On further examination they prove to be the sweating chambers, or
Turkish bath, of this curious people. The largest appears also to serve the
purpose of a council chamber and mystic hall, where rites peculiar to the tribe,
about which they are very reticent, are performed. The Pueblo Indians delight to
adorn themselves in gay colors, and form very interesting and picturesque subjects
for the artist, especially when associated with their quaint surroundings. They are
skilled in the manufacture of pottery, basket making and bead work. The grand
annual festival of these Indians occurs on the 2yth of December, and the ceremo-
nies are of a peculiarly interesting character.

All of these ancient pueblos are easy of access via the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad, and abound in objects of interest dating back many hundreds of years
before the occupation of the country by the whites, and will fully repay the tourist
for the time and expense necessary to visit them.

Espaiiola to Santa Fe. At Espanola the Texas, Santa Fe & Northern
Railroad connects with the Denver & Rio Grande and carries the tourist still further
southward to the capital of New Mexico, one of the most interesting cities on the
North American continent, Santa Fe. En route one can catch a glimpse of the
ruins of ancient cliff dwellings perched in the alcoves of the perpendicular bluffs
which rise near the track. The journey is only a distance of thirty-eight miles
through a country presenting novelty to the eyes of those unfamiliar to sub-
tropical scenes, but not of an especially startling character.

The capital of the territory of New Mexico is
the oldest city in the United States, there being
evidence to show that it was inhabited as early as
1325, or nearly three hundred years before the pil-
grim fathers landed on Plymouth Rock. The city
of Holy Faith is situated on both sides of the
Santa Fe Creek. The streets are narrow, and the
buildings are almost all constructed of adobe, and
only one story in height. The city is filled with
antiquities, the most remarkable of which, perhaps, is the church of San Miguel,
built in 1710, and the Palace, erected in 1581. The city is free from malaria and ex-
cessive heat and cold, and from wind and sand storms. It is supplied with pure water
and pure air from the mountains surrounding ; it has delightful scenery beneath bright

SANTA FE,

The Oldest town in the
United States.

Commercial City

and
Health Resort.

OVER THE RANGE.

sunshine with glorious sunsets ; it has trout in its streams, and game in the adjacent
hills and mountains ; the people are daily supplied at their doors with the freshest and
choicest esculents of home production ; and besides possessing wonderful health-
giving properties, it is one of the most comfortable residence cities in the world.
This fact is rapidly becoming known and appreciated, as witness its growing pop-
ularity both as a summer residence for people from the South, and as a winter resi-
dence for people from the North, and as an all-the-year-round residence and sani-
tarium for people variously in search of health, comfort, pleasure and business.

Santa Fe is the chief money centre of the Territory. It has two old and well
established national banking houses, besides hundreds of thousands of dollars for
loan in private hands. It is the seat of the general offices in New Mexico of
the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. It has a live board of trade, the most
able and distinguished bar in the Southwest A splendid agricultural, pastoral,
and mining country is tributary to the city. (Population, 6,000. Distance from
Denver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7,046 feet.)

ALAMOSA TO SILVtRTON.

T Antonito the line branches, that to Espanola and Santa Fe extend-
ing due south and that to Silverton turning to the westward. The
trip from Antonito to Silverton is one of great interest and abounds
in scenic attractions. The road gradually climbs out of the valley
of San Luis and up the eastward slope of the Conejos range of
mountains. The line from Big Horn to Arboles is constantly among the hills,
and the stations are either for the convenience of stockmen or shipping points
for lumber, and while of commercial importance to the railroad, of little interest
to the tourist. During the summer the Conejos Mountains furnish one of the
finest ranges for stock in Colorado, and it goes without saying that these grass-
carpeted hills and vales are fully occupied. The forest growth on the western
slope is of a larger and more dense character than that of the eastern. Many saw-
mills have been here established, and the manufacture of lumber is a large industry.
The climb to Chama is full of interest. The line pursues a tortuous course, follow-
ing the convolutions of the hills and making the ascent up the less difficult grades
of the gulches.

Los Pinos Valley. Describing a number of large curves ar .und
constantly deepening depressions, we reached the breast of a mountain, whence we
obtain our first glimpse into Los Pinos Valley, and it comes like a sudden revelation
of beauty and grandeur. The approach has been picturesque and gentle in
character. Now we find our train clinging to a narrow pathway carved out far up
the mountain's side, while great masses of a volcanic conglomerate tower overhead,
and the faces of the opposing heights are broken into bristling crags. The river
sinks deeper and deeper into th< narrowing vale, and the space beneath us to it?
banks is excitingiy precipitous We crowd upon the platform, the outer step cf
which sometimes nangs over an abyss that makes us shudder, till some friendly
bank places itseli oetween us and the almost unbroken descent. But we learn to
enjoy the imminent edge, along which the train creeps so cautiously, and begrudge
every instant that the landscap >. is shut out by intervening objects. To say that
the vision here is grand, awe-inspiring, impressive or memorable, falls short of the
truth in each case. It is too much to take in at once. We are so high that not
only the bottom of the valley, where the silvery ribbon of the Los Pinos trails in
and out amou& *he trees, and underneath the headlands, but even the wooded tops
of the further rounded hills are below us, and we can count the dim, distant peaks
in New Mexico.

Phantom Curve. One of the most striking scenes on the line of this
ascent is Phantom Curve. Just after the side-track station of Sublette (305 miles
from Denver) has been passed, the road makes a great bend around the side of a
mountain ; on the left rise tall monuments of sandstone, cut by the elements into
weird and fantastic figures. Here is indeed a wild spot, with the valley so deep
below, the grotesque, red monumental rocks around, the tall, shelving cliffs above.
A mile beyond the Curve the railroad crosses the head of the ravine on a high

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

TOLTEC GORGE,

A Scenic Wonder.

Depth of Gorge,
1,5OO feet.

Distance from Denver,
3O9 miles.

bridge of trestle-work. From this point the track runs directly toward the valley,
on a line almost at right angles with it, to where it narrows into a mere fissure in
the rocks at Tol tec Gorge.

The approach to this great scenic wonder
prepares the traveler for something extraordinary
and spectacular. A black speck in the distance
against the precipitous surface of a frowning cliff
is beheld long before Toltec is reached, and is
pointed out as the entrance to the tunnel which is
the gateway to the Gorge. As the advance is made
around mountain spurs and deep ravines, glimpses
are caught of profound depths and towering heights,
the black speck widens into a yawning portcullis,
and then the train, making a detour of four miles around a side canon, plunges
into the blackness of Toltec tunnel, which is remarkable in that it pierces the
summit of the mountain instead of its base. Fifteen hundred feet of perpen-
dicular descent would take one to the bottom of the gorge, while the seared and
wrinkled expanse of the opposite wall confronts us, lifting its massive bulwarks
high above us,

" Fronting heaven's splendor,
Strong and full and clear."

When the train emerges from the tunnel it is upon the brink of a precipice.
A solid bridge of trestle-work, set in the rock after the manner of a balcony, sup-
ports the track, and from this coigne of vantage the traveler beholds a most thrilling
spectacle. The tremendous gorge, whose sides are splintered rocks and monu-

PHANTOM CURVE

mental crags and whose depths

are filled with the snow-white

waters of a foaming torrent,

lies beneath him, the blue sky is above him and all around the majesty and mystenf

of the mountains.

Garfield Memorial. To the left of the track, just beyond the bridge,
stands a monument of granite. Curiosity is naturally excited at beholding this
polished shaft, and the questions which arise as to its origin can be briefly answered
as follows : On the 2oth day of September, 1881, the National Association of
General Passenger Agents (then on an excursion over the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad), at the time President Garf^' ' was being buried in Cleveland, held

TOLTEC GORGE ANO

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

GARFIELD MEMORIAL.

memorial services at the mouth of
Toltec tunnel and since have erected
this beautiful monument in commem-
oration of the event.

Climbres. This small station
is on the summit of the Conejos
Range, which we are now crossing,
and, having passed it, we are on the
Pacific slope. (Population, nominal.
Distance from Denver, 329 miles.
Elevation, 10,115 feet.)

Chama. This is an eating sta-
tion, where, in spite of primitive ac-
commodations, an excellent meal can
be obtained. Large quantities of
lumber are shipped from here, and the
surrounding country is an excellent
range for stock. (Population, 250.
Distance from Denver, 343 miles.
Elevation, 7,863 feet.)

AmargO. This little station
is in the midst of attractive scenery,
but is especially worthy of mention

from the fact that it is the station at which tourists and health seekers take the
stage for Pagosa Springs.

Pagosa Springs, the far-famed " big medicine"
of the Utes, the greatest thermal fountains on the
continent, are situated in Conejos County, twenty-
eight miles northwest of Amargo, the nearest rail-
way station, on the New Mexico extension of the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. These springs
lie upon the northern bank of the San Juan river, at
an altitude of seven thousand feet, and in a situation
combining numerous advantages and attractions.
To the north are the peaks of the San Juan range
east and west are the grassy plains dotted with immense pines and far to the south
the undulating prairie stretches into New Mexico. With such an environment, the
Pagosa Springs must ere long gain the celebrity to which their medicinal qualities
undoubtedly entitle them. The Indians have long been aware of the healing powers
of these " great medicine waters," and have, until recently, jealously guarded their
possession. It is not surprising that these children of the wilderness, who find
relief from distress mainly from the medications of Nature, should deplore the loss
of these powerful thermal waters. Within a basin seventy feet long and fifty wide,
formed from its own alkaline deposits, which are twenty or thirty feet thick, the
water bubbles up at a temperature of 140° Fahrenheit. There are four other springs
in the immediate locality, their similarity to the main source, as shown by analysis,
suggesting a common origin. Upon a cold morning the steam which rises from
these different springs can be seen at a distance of several miles. These purgative,
alkaline waters, with the large excess of sulphate of soda, so much increased in me-
dicinal virtue by the degree of temperature, would seem to designate Pagosa as the
Bethesda for sufferers from calculus disorders, gravel with uric diathesis, rheumatism

PAGOSA SPRINGS.

The "Big Medicine" of
the Indians..

HOT SPRINGS,

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

Elevation, 7,1O8 feet.

ilDU^-

CASTLE OF THE CLIFF DWELLERS, MANGOS CANON. COLORADO

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

and skin diseases, when alterative and depleting treatment is indicated. New bath
houses are being erected, and the tourist will find good accommodations here.

The Pacific Slope. From Chama to Durango, the ride is down grade
and through a most interesting country. Hills and valleys of great beauty,
meadows covered with thick growing grass, forests of giant trees, are some of the
many attractions of this trip. For details of information concerning the small
stations, the tourist is referred to the tables given in another part of this book.
The line passes through the Indian reservation.

Ig'lliicio. At Ignacio the Indian reservation is reached and the rude tepees
of the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio de las
Florida. Occasionally a glimpse can be caught of a stolid brave, tricked out in all
his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it speeds by. Frequently there is
quite a little group of these aborigines at the station, and they are always ready to
exchange bows and arrows, trophies of the chase, or specimens of their rude handi-
work, in return for very hard cash.

This thriving city is the county seat of La Plata
County, Colorado, and is the commercial centre of
southwestern Colorado. It is the market for the
agricultural region of Farmington and Bloomfield,
New Mexico, and the valleys of the Rio de las An-
imas, the Rio Florida, etc.

Two miles below Durango is the wonderful
" ninety-two feet " thick vein of coal, one of the
largest in the State, and here are also great coke
ovens. All the surrounding hills are more heavily
timbered than in any other part of Colo-ado. Durango is the station for the
whole San Juan mining region, including the following points :

Distance

from
Population. Durango.

Rico 1500 35

Ophir 500 62

Animas Forks 200 68

Eureka 100 58

DURANGO

Metropolis
of the San Juan.

Population, 3,500.

Distance from Denver,
45O miles.

Elevation, 6,530 feet.

Population.
Ft. Lewis, Gov't. Post. 400

Farmington, N.M 500

Bloomfield, N. M 200

Aztec, Col 50

Distance

from
Durango.

.... 60

.--- 50

.... 30

In a word, Durango is one of the most progressive towns in Colorado, and
is surrounded by a country of unexampled richness. Mining, agricultural and
pastoral pursuits all contribute to her success ; but best of all, her business men are
alive, and by their liberality, generosity and push insure a grand future for the city.
._ One of the most attractive portions of Colorado,

to the scientist, antiquarian and, indeed, the general
tourist, is that part in which are found the cliff-
dwellings c f a long extinct race. Some of the most
remarkable of these ancient ruins are situated in the
Mancos caiion, within a day's ride of Durango. A
brief description of one of these will serve as a
characterization of all. Perched seven hundred feet
above the valley, on a little ledge only just large
enough to hold it, stands a two-story house made of finely-cut sandstone, each
block about fourteen by six inches, accurately fitted and set in mortar, now harder
than the stone itself. The floor is the ledge of the rock, and the roof the over-
hanging cliff. There are three rooms on the ground floor, each one six by nine

THE

CLII-r DWELLINGS.

Relics of
A Pre-Historie Race.

Ruins
Older than History.

OVER THE RANGE

feet, with partition walls of faced stone. Traces of a floor which once separated
the upper from the lower story still remain. Each of the stories is six feet In
height, and all the rooms are nicely plastered and^painted, what now looks a dull
brick red color, with a white band along the floor. The windows are square
apertures with no signs of glazing, commanding a view of the whole valley for
many miles. The illustration shows a fortified watch-tower, indicating that these
strange cliff-dwelling people were prepared to resist assault. Traditions are few
and of history there is nothing concerning this lost race. Their ruined houses only
remain, and some broken fragments of the implements made use of in war and
peace. Researches are in progress concerning these extremely interesting ruins,

ON THE LOOKOUT.

and new facts are being developed concerning their architecture ; but it is quite
improbable that any certain light will ever be thrown on their origin or history.

Far miii gton, Bloomfield and Aztec are growing towns in New
Mexico, just over the southern line of La Plata County. They are in the heart of
a large agricultural and stock growing district, and near many ruins of the homes
of the ancient Cliff dwellers. Between Ophir and Rico are two very large lakes,
famous to all dwellers in southern Colorado as fishing grounds. Therein are found
thousands of the beautiful and delicious mountain trout, and to the borders of these

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

lakes resort deer, bears and mountain sheep. The altitude of the lakes is 11,000
feet, and they have an area of about ten acres.

Fort Lewis is a military post of seven companies capacity, located on the
La Plata River. From there one can see into Utah, and for miles and miles the
outlines of the Wasatch Range, 70 to 75 miles distant, loom up.

Trimble Hot Springs are reached nine miles above Durango. The
spacious hotel stands within a hundred yards of the road to the left of the irack.
Here are medicinal hot springs of great curative value, and here, in the season,
gather invalids and pleasure seekers to drink the waters and enjoy the delights ot

CANON OF RIO DE LAS ANIMAS.

this charming resort. The water as it pours out of the rock is at a temperature of
120 degrees, and runs constantly in a stream three inches in diameter. Within
two feet of it is another spring flowing as much more in a stream of cold water.
Bath houses have been put up, and the hot and cold water can be mixed. The
medicinal properties of these springs are beyond question. Four miles further
up the Animas valley are the Pinkerton springs of warm water, closely resembling
in properties those at Trimble's. Leaving the springs behind, the train speeds up
the valley, which gradually narrows as the advance is made, the ascending grade
becomes steeper, the hills close in, and soon the view is restricted to the rocky
gorge within whose depths the raging waters of the Animas sway and swirl.
7

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

ANIMAS CANON.

A Gem of Beauty.

Depth, 1,50O feet.

Distance from Denver,

470 miles.

Magnificent Scenery. From Durango, the metropolis of the San Juan,
to Silverton, the scenery is of surpassing grandeur and beauty. The railroad fol-
lows up the course of the Animas River (to which the Spaniards gave the musical
but melancholy title of " Rio de las Animas Perdidas," or River of Lost Souls)
until the picturesque mining town of Silverton is reached. The valley of the
Animas is traversed before the canon is entered, and the traveler's eyes are delighted
with succeeding scenes of sylvan beauty. To the right is the river, beyond which
rise the hills; to the left are mountains, increasing in rugged contour as the advance
is made ; between the track and the river are cultivated fields and cosy farm-houses,
while evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty are to be seen on every hand.

This beautiful canon has characteristics pecu-
liarly its own. The railroad does not follow the
bed of the stream, but clings to the cliffs midway
of their height, and a glance from the car windows
gives one the impression of a view from a balloon.
Below, a thousand feet, are the waters of the river,
in places white with foam, in quiet coves, green as
ocean's depths. Above, five hundred feet, climb the
combing cliffs, to which cling pines and hemlocks.
The carlo n here is a mere fissure in the mountain's heart, so narrow that one can
easily toss a stone across and send it bounding down the side of the opposing
rock-wall until it falls into the waters of the river rushing through the abyss below.
Emerging from this wonderful chasm, the bed of the gorge rises until the roadway
is but a few feet above the stream. The close, confining and towering walls of
rock are replaced by mountains of supreme height. The Needles, which are among
the most peculiar and striking of the Rockies, thrust their sharp and splintered
peaks into the regions of eternal frost.

Elk Park is a quiet little nook in the midst of the range, with vistas
of meadow and groves of pines, a spot which would furnish the artist many a
subject for his canvas. At the end of Elk Park stands Garfield Peak, lifting
its summit a mile above the track. Beyond are marshalled the everlasting
mountains, and through them for miles extends, in varying beauty and grandeur,
the Canon of the Animas Frequent waterfalls glisten in the sunlight, leaping from
crag to crag only to lose themselves at last in the onflowing river. Emerging fin-
ally from this environment of crowding cliffs, the train sweeps into Baker's Park and
arrives at Silverton in the heart of the San Juan.

This thriving and picturesque little city is the
county seat of San Juan County, Colorado, and
derives its support from the surrounding mines,
which are scattered in every portion of the county.
The output of the camp has swelled from an annual
product of $40,000 to $2,000,000 in three years.
From 600 to 1,000 tons of ore are shipped weekly from
Silverton, and the product is constantly increasing.
An industry of no small importance, and which is
rapidly assuming large dimensions, is the system
of leasing mines, and it may be said that at least
one-half of the producing mines are now being

worked by lessees. Hundreds of prospects that are in a condition to ship paying
mineral are now laying idle, awaiting the arrival of thrifty miners to take and
work them under this system. The scenery around Silverton is of the most

SI LVERTON.

Picturesque Mining

Town.

Population, 3,500.
Distance from Denver,

495 miles.
Elevation, 9,334 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

101

beautiful and attractive character. Entrance to Baker's Park, in which the town
lies, is made through the famous Animas Caflon. Hid in a theatre of hills, the
picturesqueness of the surroundings cannot be adequately described. Sultan
Mountain, one of the grandest of the San Juan Range, towers above the town ; its
summit crowned with snow from which descend innumerable rills, glittering like
silver in the sun beams.

ECHO ROCK.

ANIMAS CANON AND THE NEEDLE MOUNTAIN.

SILVERTON TO MONTROSE.

[IE trip from Silvcrton to Montrose across the intervening range of
mountains, is not at all the difficult undertaking it looks to be.
Here, blocking the way, is one of the most rugged and lofty chains
of the great Rocky Mountain system, which but recently only the
adventurous prospector and his sure footed burro (donkey) dared to
cross ; but now the journey has been rendered an easy accomplishment by the
building of the Silverton Railway over Red Mountain to Ironton, from which point
comfortable stages carry the tourist a distance of eight miles to Ouray, where the
trip is continued by way of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The construction
of the Silverton Railway was a task .of great magnitude, and one remarkable
feature about it is that it owes its existence to the enterprise and daring of one
man. For years Mr. Otto Mears has been the "pathfinder" of the San Juan
country, and the toll roads constructed by him have opened the way to the many
rich mining camps of that argentiferous region. Recently enlarging his field of
usefulness, he began unaided and alone the building of this mountain railroad;
himself being both bond owner, stockholder, corporation, president, board of
trustees, treasurer, auditor, general manager, chief engineer and paymaster. The
result has been one of the most remarkable achievements in engineering of modern
times. The road has the same gauge as that of the Denver & Rio Grande, and
like it finds no grade so stubborn as to be insurmountable. Taking the cars at the
Denver & Rio Grande depot, at Silverton, the ascent of the mountains is at once
begun. There is no preliminary skirmishing along level ground for Silverton lies
at the bottem of a bowl-shaped valley, and the mountains rise round about on all
sides to tremendous heights. With curves, whose sinuosity surpasses that of the
serpent's trail, the railroad climbs up the gulches, until at the mining station of
Chattanooga the track makes an almost perfect loop, the cars traveling several miles
forward and the same distance back — and there lies Chattanooga directly beneath
us ! All that has been gained is altitude. This is equivalent, however, to a direct
progress of a thousand feet, though it has taken a journey of fifteen thousand feet
to accomplish it. At the summit of the range the railroad reaches an altitude of
12.000 feet, and the view is something to be remembered a life time. At one point
of the descent it has been necessary to construct a switch-back reversing the course
of the train, and yet continuing the descent. This switch-back is a novel applica-
tion of engineering science, and is an exceedingly interesting piece of railroad
work. The ascent and descent of Red Mountain by this wonderful railway, give
the tourist not only an opportunity to behold the grandest of mountain scenery,
but also the privilege of witnessing on all sides the progress of mining operations.
The shafts, shaft houses, tunnels, and " prospect " holes of mines in fact or in
futtiro. are to be seen on all sides. The mines of Red Mountain are numerous, and
several of them rank among the richest in the world. At Ironton, a typical mining

103

104 OVER THE RANGE.

town, the Silverton Railroad has its terminus, and here stages are u»W*t. w the
eight miles ride to Ouray.

A Romantic Stage Ride. The stage ride forms one of tue most
attractive features of this most attractive journey. Lasting only three hours, pass-
ing over the summits of ranges and through the depths of canons, the tourist will
find this a welcome variation to his method of travel, and a great relief and recrea-
tion. The old fashioned stage, with all its romantic associations, is rapidly becom-
ing a thing of the past. A year or two more and it will have disappeared entirely
from Colorado. Here, in the midst of some of the grandest scenery on the conti-
nent, the blue sky above, and the fresh, pure exhilarating mountain air sending the
blood bounding through one's veins, to clamber into a Concord coach and be
whirled along a splendidly constructed road, as solid as the living rock from which
it has been carved at an expense in some instances of $40,000 a mile, and as smooth
as a city boulevard, is surely a novel and delightful experience. The scenery on

ON THE UNCOMPAHGRE.

this journey between Silverton and Ouray is of the greatest magnificence. This is
especially true of this portion of the route traversed by stage. The Silverton and
Ouray toll road has long been noted for its attractions in the way of scenery, the
triangular mass of Mount Abraham's towers to the left, while the road winds
around the curves of the hills with the sinuosity of a mountain brook

Bear Creek Falls. The scene from the bridge over Bear Creek is one
which once beheld can never be forgotten. Directly under the bridge plunges a
cataract to the depth of two hundred and fifty-three feet, forming a most note-
worthy and impressive scene. The toll road passes through one of the most famous
mining regions in the world, and the fame of Red Mountain is well deserved both
from the number and richness of its mines. Before Ouray is reached the road
passes through Uncompahgre Cafton. Here the roadbed has been blasted from
the solid rock wall of the gorge, and a scene similar in nature and rivaling in
grandeur that of Animas Canon is beheld.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 105

OURAY.

The Gem of the

Rockies.
Health and Pleasure

Resort.

Elevation, 7,721 feet.

Distance from Denver,

389 miles.

This is one of the most beautifully situated
towns to be found anywhere. Its scenery is idylic.
The village is cradled in a lovely valley, sur-
rounded by rugged mountains. The situation of
the town is thus briefly described in the Crest of the
Continent: " The valley in which the town is built
is pear-shaped, its greatest width being not more
than half a mile while its length is about twice that
down to the mouth of the canon. Southward — that
is toward the heart of the main range — stand the
two great peaks, Hardin and Hayden. Between is
the deep gorge down which the Uncompahgre finds

its way ; but this is hidden from view by a ridge which walls in the town and cuts
off all the further view from it in that direction, save where the triangular top of
Mount Abrahams peers over. Westward are grouped a series of broken ledges,
surmounted by greater and more rugged heights. Down between these and the
western foot of Mount Hayden struggles Canon Creek to join the Uncompahgre ;
while Oak Creek leaps down a line of cataracts from a notch in the terraced heights
through which the quadrangular head of White House Mountain becomes grandly
discernable — the eastermost buttress of the wintry Sierra San Miguel. At the
lower side of the basin, where the path of the river is beset with close canon-walls,
the cliffs rise vertical from the level of the village, and bear their forest growth
many hundreds of feet above. These mighty walls, two thousand feet high in some
places, are of metamorphic rock, and their even stratification simulates courses of
well ordered masonry. Stained by iron and probably also by manganese, they are
a deep red -maroon ; this color does not lie uniformly, however but is stronger in
some layers than in others, so that the whole face of the cliff is banded horizontally
in pale rust color, or dull crimson, or deep and opaque maroon. The western cliff
is bare, but on the more frequent ledges of the eastern wall scattered spruces grow,
and add to its attractiveness Yet, as though Nature meant to teach that a bit of
motion, — a suggestion of glee was needed to relieve the sombreness of utter
immobility and grandeur, however shapely, she has led to the sunlight, by a crevice
in the upper part of the eastern wall that we cannot ^ee, a brisk torrent draining
the snowfields of some distant plateau. This little stream, thus beguiled by the
fair channel that led it through the spruce woods above, has no time to think of its
fate, but it is flung out over the sheer precipice eighty feet into the valley below.
We see the white ghost of its descending, and always to our ears is murmured the
voice of the Naiads, who are taking the breathless plunge. Yet by what means the
stream reaches that point from above cannot be seen, and the picture is that of a
strong jet of water bursting from an orifice through the crimson wall, and falling
into rainbow-arched mist and a tangle of grateful foliage that hides its further
flowing."

The town has one hotel of great magnificence worthy of a city of ten times its
population, besides a good supply of other hostelries of a less splendid character.
Ouray is a health resort worthy of patronage by invalids, possessing hot springs of
a fine medicinal character and abounding in attractions to divert the mind. Plenty
of sport can be had about here. The mountain sheep and wapiti have not yet been
killed off ; deer and trout are abundant. The rides up the roads and trails to
neighboring mines and mining camps, through valley and canon, and over moun-
tain and mesa, are not soon exhausted, and the lover of botany or geology, or the
student of mineralogy and mining, could scarcely find a finer field anywhere than
in the neighborhood of Ouray.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

107

Ouray to Moiitrose. Leaving Ouray, a ride of thirty-five miles, via the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, brings the traveler to Montrose, on the main line of
the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, between Denver and Salt Lake. Two miles from
Ouray the country begins to become open and soon one is passing through farms
and an excellent agricultural valley. En route one passes the confluence of the
Uncompahgre and Dallas, where the wagon road branches to the gold fields of San
Miguel, and the mesas and terraces on either side abound with almost every species of
game, deer, elk, mountain sheep, bear, and smaller animals. Further on, twenty-two

CHIEFS OF THE UNCOMPAHGRE UTES.

miles from Ouray, you come to the old Los Pifios Agency, where Chiefs Douglas,
Jack, Colorow, Piah, and other Indians, who participated in the massacre of
Thornburg and the Meekers, tested the nerve of General Hatch and his associates
in 1879. The store-house, council chamber, etc., are still standing. The military
camp is passed twenty-six miles from Ouray, and five miles further on, one reaches
the residence of Chippeta, the widow of Ouray, the dead Ute chief, who, during
his reign, held the Utes in check, and was always the friend of the white man. At
Montrose the tourist can take the main line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
and resume the trans-continental journey.

SALIDA TO ASPEN.

HE trip from Salida to Aspen abounds in interest for the tourist.
It leads one through a most varied country, and presents to the
inspection of the traveler almost every variety of industry, from
the agriculture and stock raising of the Arkansas and Eagle River
Valleys, to the gold and silver mining of Leadville and Aspen, and
it may be said, in passing, that Leadville and Aspen are the two greatest
mining camps in the world and well worthy of a visit. The scenery after Salida
is passed grows in interest with each mile of advance. We are steaming up
the left bank of the Arkansas River, and are crossing the western border of the

BROWN'S CANON.

Great South Park. The mountains, capped with snow, shut us in throughout the
whole circle of the horizon. The Collegiate Range, including the peaks of Yale,
Harvard and Princeton to our left, and beyond, the great volcano- made cones of
Ouray and Shaveno, which tower above Marshall Pass. Away off to the right are
the Kenosha Hills. Agriculture and stock raising are the main industries of South
Park, and the ranchmen find these pursuits of an exceedingly lucrative character.
A number of small stations are passed beyond Salida as follows : Brown Canon,
Hecla Junction, Nathrop and Midway.

Brown's Canon. After passing the station of Brown's Canon, fine
views of the Sangre de Cristo peaks present themselves close by, and then the
rocks are heaped up again into the grand defile of Brown's Canon, where one of
our illustrations was made.

109

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. Ill

Calumet Branch. Just before entering Brown's Canon, a branch road
can be seen running off to the northward. That is the short road up to Calumet,
where the Colorado Coal and Iron Company have iron mines of great value and
in constant operation, for the ore is suitable for the making of Bessemer steel.
These mines are open, quarry like excavations, and the ore is therefore more easily
handled than is usual. The grade on this branch, four hundred and six feet to
the mile, is said to be the heaviest in the world where no cog-wheels are used.
Only a few empty cars can be hauled up; and the difficulty is almost as great in
descending, for it requires at least four cars, dragging with hard set brakes, to
hold an engine under control in going down. Marble and lumber in great quan-
tities are also shipped down this little branch from the neighborhood of Calumet.

Blieiia Vista. Buena Vista is the county seat of Chaffee County. The
town was incorporated in the month of December, 1879, and, for its age, is a
wonderfully thriving place. It is beautifully situated on the Arkansas River,
thirty-six miles below Leadville and 242 miles from Denver. The town is quite an
important station, and is surrounded by good mines of gold and silver, fine pasture-
lands for stock and many improved ranches. The city has an abundance of pure
water, fine shade trees, churches, schools, stores, etc. (Population, 1,800. Dis-
tance from Denver, 242 miles. Elevation, 7.970 feet.)

Cotton wood Spring's. The Cottonwood Hot Springs have long been
famous in Colorado for their curative properties. They were the resort of the
Indians before the whites took possession of the country, and have since been
greatly improved and made accessible to invalids and tourists. The springs are
situated six miles from Buena Vista, whence a stage line conveys passengers
arriving on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to the springs. For cases of
inflammatory rheumatism, lead poisoning, and diseases of the blood, these waters
possess remarkable curative properties. The scenery of the valley in which the
springs are situated is of great loveliness, the Collegiate Range of mountains form-
ing an imposing background. Fine trout fishing can be found in ten minutes'
walk up and down Cottonwood Creek, and the neighboring hills abound in game.
There are good accommodations here for tourists and invalids.

After leaving Buena Vista the following small stations are passed : Americus,
Riverside, Pine Creek, Granite and Twin Lakes (station).

The station of Twin Lakes must not be con-
founded with the lakes themselves. These most
beautiful mountain tarns are best reached by a
seven miles stage ride from Granite Station. The
drive is in itself a delightful experience, and the
lakes prove a most charming culmination. You
find yourself in a little valley about seven miles
in area. Around you on all sides, looming up
grand and precipitous, are snow-capped mountain
peaks, each of them towering fully a mile high, from where you stand, com-
pletely walling you in from the outer world. These mountains are Mount
Elbert, La Plata, and Twin Peaks, each of them higher than the famous Pike's
Peak, Lake Mountain, Mount Sheridan, and Park Range. They are all more or
less covered, up to the timber line, with fir and spruce trees, the fragrance of
which perfumes the atmosphere, and, owing to the rarified air, the tops of the
peaks, on which rest the eternal snows, seem so near that you think you could
almost throw a stone to their summits, though in fact the length of that very up-
hill stone-throw would be considerably more than a mile. For about three-fourths

TWIN LAKES,

Pleasure Resort.

Elevation, 9,357 feet.

112 OVER THE RANGE.

of its area the valley is occupied by the lakes, and to an ordinary observer it is
plain that these lakes were formerly one and occupied the whole valley up to the
very foot of the mountains. At present, however, they are twins — Siamese twins —
for they are connected by a mountain stream, which, as well as the lakes them-
selves, abound in the most delicious mountain trout that ever nibbled at a hook or
smoked on a platter.

Now let us row out into the middle of the upper lake. It seems as if you were
in the centre of a mighty amphitheatre, the arena of which is water, the sloping sides
fir-clad mountains, and the roof a great bowl inverted, painted a gorgeous blue and
lightly resting on the snow-capped mountains. The sizzling dweller of cities may
ask what is the thermometer here? I do not know. I never saw one here. These
people have no more use for a thermometer than a toad has for a pocket-book.
Old Sol rises bright and fierce-looking every morning in an Italian sky, but his
rays are so tempered by the breezes from the mountains that by the time they reach
the valley they are just pleasantly warm and exhilarating. But there is one thing
his rays will do, and city folk would better beware of them if they do not want to
peel off their outer cuticle, they will sunburn as effectually as if conveyed through
the medium of a burning glass; this is owing to the rarity of the atmosphere.
Flannels can and ought to be worn here every day, and a person sitting reading or
writing in-doors for an hour or so, in a room where there is no fire, and while the
sun is shining brightly outside, will find the cold stealing up his nether limbs.

Returning to Granite and resuming the journey, the following small stations
are passed: Hayden, Crystal Lake, Malta and Eiler.

This wonderful Cloud City first became known
to fame in 1859 as California Gulch, one of the
richest placer camps in Colorado. From 1859 to

LEADVILLE,

277 miles.

1864 $5,000,000 in gold dust were washed from
the ground of this gulch. The camp was after-
wards nearly abandoned, and it was not until 1876

The Great " Carbonate
Camp."

Population, io.ooo.
Elevation, 10,200 feet. that the carbonate beds of silver were discovered.

Distance from Denver,

Immediately after this discovery a great rush ensued
to the carbonate camp, which was named Leadville,
and the population rose from a nominal number to
30,000. Leadville is the county seat of Lake

County. It is the third city in size in Colorado, and the greatest and most unique
carbonate mining camp in the world. The visitor to Leadville is irresistibly
reminded of the words of Joaquin Miller : " Colorado, rare Colorado ! Yonder
she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown
grass ; the boundless plains for a playground ; she is set on a hill before the world,
and the air is very clear, so that all may see her well." The city is lighted by gas
and electricity ; has telephonic communication with surrounding points ; has the
usual conveniences and luxuries of cities of corresponding size, and in all respect
ranks as one of the greatest cities of this great State. Leadville is one of the most
interesting cities in the world to the tourist. It abounds in scenes of a novel and
characteristic nature, and presents views of life entirely foreign to the conventional.
Mining methods are here fully illustrated in every form, from lode mining to
hydraulic and sluicing work. Leadville has a handsome theatre, the Tabor Opera
House, having a seating capacity of i.ooo. The scenery around Leadville is mag-
nificent. It is walled in on all sides by towering mountains whose summits are
crowned with eternal snow. Occupying so high an altitude, the effect is remark-
able, and tourists can find no more striking nor interesting scenes than those

7O THE GOLDEN GATE. 113

presented by I.eadville and its weird and wonderful surroundings. Leadville is
well supplied witli good hotels. Livery accommodations are first-class, and the
boulevard affords one of the finest drives in the State. Situated on the front of
Mount Mass ve, at the mouth of Colorado Gulch, and distant five miles from Lead-
ville are the popular Soda Springs. The boulevard, a carefully constructed drive,
one hundred feet in width, and as smooth as a race track, gives access to the springs,
a stage connecting with Leadville twice a day. The springs are strongly impreg-
nated with soda, and are of a highly medicinal character. There is excellent trout
fishing within a few minutes walk of the springs, pleasant drives and rides are
numerous, and placer as well as lode mining are in progress in near proximity,
easily accessible to the inspection of the tourist. As a business point, Leadville is
recognized as among the first in the State, with its large population, great smelting
works and vast mining industry, it cannot help but command the attention of busi-
ness men and investors.

Between Leadville and Tennessee Pass are the following unimportant stations:
Eagle Junction, Keildar and Crane Park.

Tennessee Pass. Rising along a tortuous path cut at a heavy grade, as
usual, into the side hills, we mount slowly into Tennessee Pass, which feeds the
head of Eagle River on one side and one source of the Arkansas on the other. It
is a comparatively low and easy pass, covered everywhere with dense timber, and
a wagon road has long been followed through it. There was nothing to be seen
except an occasional pile of ties, or a charcoal oven, save that now and then a gap
in the hills showed the gray rough summits of Galena, Homestake. and the other
hights that guard the Holy Cross. At each end of the Pass is a little open glade
or " park," where settlers have placed their cabins and fenced off a few acres of
level ground whereon to cut hay, for nothing else will grow at this great elevation.
_____^^^^^^___^^_— We can do no better service to the tourist than

to quote Ernest Ingersoll's description of this
famous mountain given in " The Crest of the
Continent." He says: "One of the side valleys,
coming down to the track at right angles from the
southwestward— I think it is Homestake Gulch —
leads the eye up through a glorious alpine avenue
to where the cathedral crest of a noble peak pierces
the sky. It is a summit that would attract the eye
anywhere, — its feet hidden in verdurous hills, guarded by knightly crags, half-
buried in seething clouds, its helmet vertical, frowning, plumed with gleaming;

snow, — •

* Ay, every inch a king.'

" It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic
characters as dwarf all human graving, and set on the pinnacle of the world as
though in sign of possession forever. The Jesuits went hand in hand with the
Chevalier Dubois, proclaiming Christian Gospel in the northern forests; the Puritan
brought his testament to New England, the Spanish banners of victory on the
golden shores of the Pacific were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Fran-
cisco ; the frozen Alaskan cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St.
Peter and St. Paul. On every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of
Christ, and with all the eclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered,
before any of them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the Cross had
been planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured generations, as a sign of
glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity a re-

MOUNT OF

THE

HOLY CROSS.

Elevation, 14,176 feet.

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 115

minder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proudest
eminence. What matters it whether we write 'God' in the constitution of the
United States, when here in the sight of all men is inscribed this marvelous testi-
mony to his sovereignty ! Shining grandly out of the pure ether, and above all
tribulence of earthly clouds, it says : Humble thyself, O man ! Measure thy fiery
works at their true insignificance. Uncover thy head and acknowledge thy weak-
ness. Forget -not, that as high above thy gilded spires gleams the splendor of
this ever-living Cross, so are My thoughts above thy thoughts, and My ways
above thy ways."

Crane's Park is a beautiful park in the mountains at the western foot of
Tennessee Pass. Here are to be seen the kilns of charcoal burners, and a wonder-
ful valley and mountain view.

Red Clift' Canon. Just beyond Crane's Park the railroad enters Red
Cliff Canon, a comparatively short but very interesting gorge in the mountains.

Bed Cliff. This picturesque little town is the county seat of Eagle County,
and the entrepot of a large mining district. The mines of the Battle Mountain and
other districts contribute greatly to the business of the place. Leadville with its
smelters is only 25 miles distant, and this fact is also an element of success
among the many which give promise of future prosperity to the town. The scenery
around Red Cliff is of the grandest and most beautiful description. To reach the
town the traveler makes the ascent and descent of Tennessee Pass, and obtains the
best distant view that can be had of the famous Mount of the Holy Cross. Just
beyond Red Cliff are the wonders of Eagle River Canon (Population, 1,000.
Distance from Denver, 299 miles. Elevation, 8,671 feet)

_ Beyond Red Cliff the Eagle River Canon opens

to the view at first a comparatively wide expanse,
EAGLE RIVER CANON. later more narrow> walled in on each side by cliffs

of vari-colored rocks, whose lofty and apparently
Height of Walls insurmountable summits bear the dark banners of

the pine. Admiration and awe at this stupendous
2,OOO feet.

work of Nature take possession of the mind, when

suddenly these emotions are overshadowed by
wonder and almost incredulous surprise at the daring of man, for there above
us on the right, perched like the nest of heaven-scaling eagles, rest the habi-
tations of men ! There are the shaft houses and abiding places of adven-
turous miners, who, having climbed these cliffs, pick in hand, have here
discovered rich veins of the precious metal, which, being blasted from its matrix,
is conveyed to the railroad track 2,000 feet below, by a most ingenious system of
tramways and endless steel ropes. There is something very impressive in the sight
of these frail cliff-perched dwellings; and the shaft-penetrated, tunnel pierced peaks
suggest irresistibly the fabled cavernous labyrinths of " Kor." Nowhere can the
traveler find a more interesting and instructive illustration of mining methods than
is here presented by the shaft-scarred sides of Battle Mountain and the pinnacle
perched eyries of Eagle River Canon.

The Valley of the Eagle. The canon passed, one enters the Valley
of Eagle River. Quieter scenes of pastoral and agricultural achievements follow.
Here are comfortable ranch houses surrounded by fertile fields; there are herds of
cattle feeding contentedly in natural pastures; while on all sides are seen evidences
of peace, prosperity and plenty.- The Eagle River, a beautiful stream, whose
pellucid waters do not conceal the bright colored gravel of its bed, meanders
through the valley, adding to the beauty of the scene, and carrying with it the

116

OVER THE RANGE

practical benefits of irrigation, without which the soil would produce nothing but
vegetation suitable for grazing purposes. The clear, cold waters swarm with trout,
and here the disciples cf old Izaak Walton cannot fail to find ample room and

verge for plying their gentle
craft.

In our journey through
the valley we pass the fol-
lowing stations: Rock Creek,
Minturn, Allenton, Sher-
wood, Eagle River, Gypsum,
Dotsero, Shoshone and Sul-
phur Springs.

CANON

or THE

GRAND RIVER.

A Marvelous Gorge.

One of the World's
Wonders.

EXPLORING THE WALLS.

Gradually the valley
narrows, high bluffs hem
us in on the left, the river
is close to the tiack on the
right, and its fertile banks
suddenly change into a tum-
bled, twisted, black and
blasted expanse of scoria,
the outpouring of some
ancient volcano of tremen-
dous activity. The few trees
on the hither side of the
stream are also black, an
inheritance of fire ; the
waters under the black
banks, and reflecting the
blackened trees, take on a
swarthy hue — a stygian
picture ! Just beyond, a
distant glimpse of fertile
country, and the clear waters
of the Eagle are lost in
the muddy current of the
Grande, and a canon greater
in extent and more varied
in character than that of
the Arkansas opens before
us. As the train speeds

7V THE GOLDEN GATE. 117

downward, the mountains on the horizon behind us seem to rise up towards the
zenith as though the miracle of creation was being repeated before our eyes.
Soon, however, the distant mountains are shut out and only the sky above, the
river and track beneath and the cliffs around are visible ; and here begins a
panorama, kaleidoscopic in its ever changing forms and colors, the wonder of the
one who sees, the despair of the one who wished to tell ethers what he saw.

In places the effect is that of giant Egyptian art and architecture. Vast bas-
tions of granite, strata on strata, rise to a stupendous height, braced against rock
masses behind them, infinitely vaster. Suggestions of the Sphinx and of the pyra-
mids can be caught in the severe and gigantic rock-piled structures on every hand.
These are not made up of boulders, nor are they solid monoliths, like those in the
Royal Gorge. On the contrary, they are columns, bastions, buttresses, walls, pyr-
amids, towers, turrets, even statues, of stratified stone, with sharp cleavage, not in
the least weather-worn, presenting the appearance of Brobdignagian masonry —
hence I use the phrase " rock-piled structures" advisedly and as best descriptive of
what there exists.

But the kaleidoscope is shaken and the rock pieces are re-arranged. The effect
is startling. We have left Egypt, with her shades of gray and her frowning, mas-
sive and gigantic forms. We are in a region of glowing colors, where the vermilion,
the maroon, the green and the yellow abound and mingle and contrast. What
strange country was the prototype of this ? Ah ! yonder is something character-
istic— a terraced pyramid banded with brilliant and varied colors — the teocoli of
the Aztecs.

Whirling around a headland of glowing red rock, which it seems ought to be
called " Flamingo Point." we are in a region of ruddy color and of graceful forms.
Minarets, from whose summits the muezzin's call might readily be imagined falling
upon the ears of the dwellers in this " Orient in the West," spires more graceful
than that of Bruges, more lofty than that of Trinity, towers more marvelous than
Pisa's leaning wonder, columns more curious than that of Vendome, splintered and
airy pinnacles, infinite in variety, innumerable ! inimitable ! indescribable !

In a moment darkness and the increased rumble of wheels ; then light and an-
other marvelous view. We have passed tunnel No. I, the portcullis; darkness
again for a moment, then the blue sky above us. We have entered through the
postern gate; darkness for the third time — absolute, unmitigated blackness of
darkness ; this must be "the deepest dungeon 'neath the castle moat." But soon
again we see the blessed light, and there before us lies the goal of our journey —
Glenwood Springs.

._ ____^_M1^___— GleilWOOd Springs is the pleasure and

health resort of western Colorado, as well as a

GLENWOOD ilNGS, flourjshing and growing town. It is the county

seat of Garfield County. The picturesque scenery
of the Grand River, from its source midst the peaks

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

Wonderful Hot
Springs.

Distance from Denver,
367 miles.

Elevation, 5,768 feet.

and crags of the Rockies, to its debouch into the
magnificent waters of the broad Colorado, has been
the theme of able writers in prose and poetry, but at
no spot in its rapid march to the sea, do the waters
of the Grand glisten and ripple upon the shores of a

lovelier valley than at its confluence with the Roar-
Population, 3,OOO. ,

ing Fork, where are situated the springs and citv of

Glenwood. Here the sentinel ranges, which have
guarded the stormy passage of the turbulent stream through mountain pass and

118 OVER THE RANGE

precipitous canon, seem to have deployed their ranks, that they might surround
and embrace a valley so lovely in its landscape and set in a frame of such scenic
grandeur. The springs themselves are phenomenal, innumerable- fountains
bubbling up over an area covering both sidt^ of the river, and varying in volume
from twenty to one thousand cubic inches per second. The principal springs on
the north side of the Grand River discharge an immense body of water, heated in
nature's furnace to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, which flows in a broad stream to its
outlet through an aqueduct recently constructed, forming a beautiful island, upon
which is erected a commodious and well appointed bathing house, provided with
every convenience for sitz, plunge and vapor bathing. The waters have been
found of great benefit to invalids, and as a result the springs are largely patronized,
Aside from the beautiful valley selected from its site, and the attractions presented
by its wonderful springs, Glen wood City possesses many advantages and material
resources which are destined to make it one of the most important points on the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The town has electric lights, water works, and
most of the modern improvements. Good hotels provide for the comfort of the
tourist. An illustration of the enterprise of these people is the fact that all the
material for the first hotel erected here was brought in over the mountain ranges
on the backs of burros and by mule trains. Situated in the midst of a vast
agricultural and stock growing region, the tide of immigration is rapidly filling the
valleys and uplands with actual settlers, whose traffic has built up for the town
during the past year a large trade, which is only a suggestion of the vast mercantile
traffic which will be done at this central point in the near future, when this inviting
section of the great West is populated by the immense number of inhabitants it
is capable of sustaining.

Accommodations for Bathing1. The bath house recently erected at
the wonderful hot springs here, is of the most elegant design. It is built of red
sandstone, and the walls of all rooms are of red or cream colored pressed brick,
wainscoted with Texas pine and colored enamels. There are forty-four large
bath rooms, in two departments, for the respective sexes. Each bath room has
two compartments. One is lined with enamel and set with a porcelain tub, having
bronze appliances for readily supplying hot, warm or cold, mineral water; and
hot, warm or cold, fresh water, also showers of warm or cold water. Any desired
temperature, from 45° up to 120° Fahrenheit can be supplied. The other com-
partment is furnished as a dressing room, and provided with a settee for reclining
after the bath. These compartments have high ceilings and are well lighted from
elevated windows by day, and by incandescent electric lamps at night. Light
refreshments are served in each room by attendants summoned by electric bells.
Massage treatment is administered in a room for that purpose. Besides the bath
rooms, the building contains handsome sitting and smoking rooms with open fires,
physician's room, billiard room, coffee kitchen, linen rooms, hair dressing rooms,
laundry, etc. All rooms are kept supplied with fresh air at an equable temperature
throughout the year. Every accessory for the luxurious and health-giving bath
is provided in the building. The baths are supplied from the main spring, which
yields a const »nt flow of 2,500,000 gallons per day of highly mineralized hot water,
at a temperature of 124.2° Fahrenheit. This water is a remarkable remedial agent,
aiding or effecting cures of scrofula, rheumatism, gout, lead poisoning, diabetes,
Bright's disease, and all skin and blood diseases. The new bath house stands on
the margin of the Mammoth Swimming Pool.

The Bathing Pool. This is remarkable for its size and the complete-
ness of its conveniences. It is nearly six hundred feet in length, by one hundred

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 119

and ten feet in width at the widest part. Its depth gradually increases from three and
one-half feet at one end to six feet at the other. The walls are of red sandstone,
and the bottom is paved with hard pressed brick. Its surface area is 43,000 square
feet, or one acre ; and the capacity, 1,500,000 gallons. It is constantly supplied
with mineral water from the main and Yampa Springs, and kept at a temperature
of about 95° Fahrenheit. There are one hundred and thirteen dressing rooms, in
separate departments for the sexes. These are warmed in winter, and a hooded
way leads into the water, so that bathers use*the pool with safety and comfort
in mid-winter. At night the pool is brilliantly lighted by arc electric lights.
Bathing suits are supplied at a moderate charge. Thousands who have tried
bathing in the pool pronounce it the most delightful of baths. The exercise which
it admits of while bathing is deemed especially beneficial to many kinds of invalids.

The Vapor Caves. A remarkable feature of these springs are the vapor
caves— natural openings in the rocks to which the steam from the hot springs
obtains access. In one of these natural caves the company has erected a unique
vapor bath house with ample dressing rooms, a number of private vapor rooms,
shower bath room, etc., all lighted by electric lights, affording vapor baths in
either cave or private rooms at a temperature of 105° to 110° Fahrenheit. These
baths are not only a luxury to those who are well, but are especially recommended
by physicians for a number of serious ailments.

Extension of the Denver & Kio Grande Railroad. From
Glenwood Springs an extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad is in process
of construction, which will be of great importance to the traveling public. It has
been built as far as New Castle and will be extended to Grand Junction, passing
down the Grand River and through a continuation of the marvelous Canon of the
Grand. When completed it will become part of the great trans-continental line, as
Ogden can then be reached either via Salida and Marshall Pass, or via Leadville
and Tennessee Pass.

Carbon <1 ale. Situated at the confluence of Rock Creek and Roaring
Fork, twelve miles south of Glenwood. Springs. This is the proposed point for
coking ovens and blast furnace to be erected by the Colorado Coal & Iron Com-
pany. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 379 miles. Elevation 6181 feet.)

The Elk Mountain Railway, starting at Carbondale, where it con-
nects with the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, runs up the
valley of Rock Creek, in a southerly direction, for about twenty-two miles, and
then in nearly an easterly line to Robinson's Lake, thirty miles .from Carbondale.
The line will be constructed from Robinson's Lake to the mines in the vicinity of
Crystal, in the near future, making a distance of thirty-five miles from Carbondale.

Avalanche Creek. Twelve miles from Carbondale. This will be the
shipping point for silver and iron ores located six to eight miles up Avalanche
Creek.

Penny's Hot Springs. Fourteen miles south of Carbondale, on Rock
Creek. These springs are said to be equal to those of Glenwood in healing and
restorative power.

Coal Basin. Nineteen miles from Carbondale. At this station all the
coal from Coal Basin will be received. This is the largest and finest body of
coking coal in Colorado, and is largely controlled by the Colorado Fuel Company.
Extensive coking ovens will be erected at this point.

Prospect. Twenty-one miles from Carbondale. At or near this point will
be located the coal breaker and extensive plant of the Pacific Coal & Coke Company,
who own the extensive anthracite coal fields of Chair Mountain. This company is

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 131

preparing to ship five hundred tons of anthracite coal per day. This coal is said
to be equal to the best red ash coal of Pennsylvania.

KobiilSOll's .Luke. Thirty miles from Carbondale. At this point are
locaced the finest marble and slate quarries west of the Missouri River. Yule
Creek joins Rock Creek here, and all the valuable silver ores of that district will be
loaded here.

Crystal. This is an old mining camp and is thirty-five miles southeast from
Carbondale, on the head waters of Rock Creek. In the vicinity of this camp are
located nearly one hundred and fifty patented silver mines. It is estimated that the
output from this district will be one hundred tons per day.

Scenic Attraction. The line passes the base of Sopris Mountain and
Chair Mountain, and terminates in the great elbow of the Elk Mountains at Crystal.
No finer scenery can be found in the West. In a ride of two hours the tourist can
be transported from the beautiful valley of Roaring Fork nearly to the summit of
the Elk Mountain Range, and can view nearly all the prominent peaks from Mount
Massive west.

Returning to Carbondale, the stations on the main line to Aspen are as
follows : Emma, Snow Mass and Woody Creek.

_ Aspen, the county seat of Pitkin County, is

located in one of the most noted mining regions of

ASPEN- Colorado seventy five miles northwest from Buena

Vista, and is the terminus of the Aspen extension

Great Mining Town. of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The valleys

of the Roaring Fork River and its confluents,
Health and pleasure Castle, Hunter's and Maroon Creeks, are especially

Resort.

fitted for agriculture, and the hills and mesas adja-
cent form a fine range for stock, which in addition
to the mining interests will surely make Aspen one
of the most prosperous cities in the State. Stores and shops of all kinds, carrying
large lines of goods, are abundant, and the business done here would do credit
to a town boasting five times its present population. The good faith of the people
is manifested by the character of the buildings they have erected. It is a town
of beautiful homes, and has most excellent society. All the principal religious
denominations have suitable houses of worship, and the public schools are of an
excellent order. The hotels are good, there is a fine opera house, and the town is
supplied with pure water from Castle Creek. An electric light plant illuminates
the principal places of business as well as the streets. The climate is delicious
and especially beneficial in all pulmonary complaints. Aspen is a garden town,
and displays many beautiful lawns, sprinkled and beautified by flowers.

The main industry of Pitkin County, of which Aspen is the c'ounty seat, is
mining. The town is situated upon the great zone or belt which passes through
the country in a northeasterly and southwesterly course, and has tributary territory
for from twenty to thirty miles each way. The ores are of good grade and are
found in remarkably large deposits. The Great Central lead with its spurs and
lateral feeders, resembles a river with many branches. Silver and lead are the
principal mineral products, although gold has been found and profitably worked at
Independence, in the eastern part of the county, and the iron ores at Cooper's
Camp, in the southwestern part, are found in immense deposits, and are of the
very finest quality. Building stone is found, and the rock is unsurpassed in texture
or color, and the surrounding hills will be great producers for outside markets.
Some coal is found in Pitkin County, but not in extensive measures as in Garfield,

122

OVER THE RANGE

the great coal county of the United States, which adjoins upon the north. There
is no territory of similar area with richer or more varied products than Pitkin County.
The scenery around this thriving city is wonderfully varied and beautiful. Situated
in the heart of the mountains, and surrounded by the most wonderful works of
nature, Aspen will always be an attractive place to the tourist and the lover of the
grand and marvelous. Hunting and fishing are found here in their perfection.
Nature seems to have made Aspen her favorite child, and has poured out at her
feet all the rich gifts of her cornucopia. (Population, 6,500. Distance from Den-
ver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7 868 feeO

MARBLE CANON.

LEADVILLE TO DILLON.

From Leadville a branch line of
the widely radiating Denver and Rio
Grande system extends over Fremont
Pass to Dillon. The general direction
taken by the line is to the northeast,
with a deflection from Frisco to Dillon
to the northwest. The Great Middle Park
of Colorado lies to the north of Dillon,
just over the range of the Williams River
Mountains. The country between Lead-
ville and Dillon is extremely mountainous,
and mines of great value have been dis-
covered in this region. The railroad
crosses the Park Range at Fremont Pass,
and in the valley at the foot of the pass
the Arkansas River has its sources. The
Blue River heads on the Pacific slope near
the pass, and the south branch is crossed
by the railroad near the small station of

Wheeler, the north branch is encountered at Frisco in the vicinity of which the
two join and form the main stream, which empties into the Grand in the south-
west corner of Middle Park.

The ride from Leadville to Fremont Pass is one of great interest to lovers
of the grand and beautiful in nature. The mountain ranges which surround the
" Carbonate Camp " are in plain view, and every turn in the road reveals new
attractions. This extension of the line is known as the Blue River branch. It i?

123

124 OVER THE RANGE

thirty-six miles in length, with its terminus at Dillon. The intervening stations
are Birds Eye, Alicante, Fremont Pass, Robinson, Kokomo, Wheeler, Frisco and
Dillon.

Source of the Arkansas. The line from Leadville follows up the
Arkansas River, and here we have an object lesson in the growth of rivers. We
see from what small beginnings great things in the way of water courses grow.
We see how a little brook which one could dam with a couple of shovels of mud
may push its way along. " undermining what it cannot overthrow ; sliding around
the obstacle that deemed itself impassable, losing itself in willowy bogs, tumbling
headlong over the error of a precipice or getting heedlessly entrapped in a confined
canon ; escaping down a gorge with indescribable turmoil, and always growing
bigger, bigger, broader and stronger, deeper and more dignified ; till it can leave
the mountains and strike boldly across a thousand miles of untracked plain to
4 fling its proud heart into the sea.' "

Almost in the very springs of the river, where an amphitheatre of gray
quartzite peaks stand like stiffened silver-gray curtains between the Atlantic and
the Pacific, we curl round a perfect shepherd's crook of a curve, and then climb its
straight staff to the summit of Fremont Pass.

Through a charming valley the approach to
Fremont Pass is made. A famous pass, with the
historic name of him who has been called " The

FREMONT PASS.

One of the Highest

Pathfinder," although a later day has witnessed
greater achievements than his among the Rocky

Railroad Passes Mountains. A journey here deserves the title of a

in the World. pilgrimage, for from the summit of this pass the

traveler can discern the Mount of the Holy Cross.
£levation, 11,329 feet.

The scene is one replete with vivid interest. Fainter

and fainter grow the lines of objects in the valley,
until at last the clouds envelope the train, and at the next moment the observer
looks down upon a rolling mass of vapor through which the light strikes in many
colored beams. The sublimity of the scene forbids all thoughts other than those
of reverence and rapture.

" The snow-crowned monarchs of an upper world,
Rugged and steep and bare, the mountains rise;
Their very feet are planted in the skies;
Adown their sides are avalanches hurled.

" Time was when few and daring were the men
Who might behold this pass, that Fremont gained
Through toil and danger, and its heights attained.
Perils beset the long leagues down again.

" Now all may come who seek, afar from crowds,
The grand in nature, for we now engage
The potent genii of this iron age,
Fire, steam and steel, and rise above the clouds ! "

The railroad crosses the pass at an elevation of about two miles above the
level of the sea, and ranks among the highest railroad passes in the world.

Mount Of the Holy Cross. From the crest of Fremont Pass the
traveler looks eagerly about and soon catches sight of the sacred symbol which
gives name to the famous mount. The snow-white emblem of Christian faith
gleams with bright splendor against the azure sky. The wayfarer at last realizes
that he has reached the height " around whose summit splendid visions rise."
This is one of the best points of view from which to behold this wonderful
mountain, a more extended description of which will be found in the chapter

126

OVER THE RANGE

entitled, From Leadville
to Aspen.

Downward to
Dillon. On the Pacific
Slope are the mines which
made this region famous.
The Robinson Consoli-
dated, the White Quail,
the Wheel of Fortune, etc

Moving on down the
pleasant valley, whose level
bottom is carbonate tinted,
not with ore dust, but with
an almost continuous thicket
of stunted red willows, we
pass the Chalk Mountain
mines, the Carbonate Hill
district, Clinton Gulch,
where gold ore is alleged to
be worih more attention
than it is receiving, and so
come to Elk Mountain and
Kokomo. The ore found
here is a hard carbonate,
running about twenty-five
ounces in silver and twenty-
five per cent, in lead, be-
sides a third of an ounce
in gold, which is carefully
separated at the smelter.
Much of it is so admirably
constituted that it " smelts
itself," — that is, it requires
little or no addition of lead,
iron and other accessories
to its proper fluxion. Con-
tinuing the journey we be-
hold alluring pictures of
mountains and canons, of
belts of timber and pleasant
uplands, of green meadows

and sparkling streams beloved of gamey trout and the haunts of deer and elk. This
country is still a paradise for the sportsman, and the rod and gun find ample
range for their employment here.

Dillon is the terminus of the Blue River branch, and is situated in a mining
country. Distance from Breckenridge, 10 milts ; Frisco, 3 miles; Montezuma, 12
miles; Decatur, 15 miles; Rock Creek, 10 miles. The station is the nearest
point for the lower Blue River Valley, into which good roads extend. Saddle
horses and wagons can be hired to go down this river into the hunting and fishing
grounds of Middle Park. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 313 miles.
Klevation, 8,861 feet.)

CASCADES OF

•HE BLUE

OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO.

OGDEN,

Railroad and Manufac-
turing Town.

Population, 15,OOO.
Elevation, 4,386 feet.

Distance from Denver,
771 miles.

Distance from San
Francisco, 883 miles.

At Ogden the tourist steps from the train of
the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad into that of the
Southern Pacific, the transfer being made with
very little trouble, and in a few minutes time, at
the Union Depot. A glance around will show one
that Ogden is beautifully situated on the west slope
of the Wasatch Mountains. It is well laid out and
substantially built; the streets are wide, regular,
lined with shade and ornamental trees, and lighted
with electricity By a good system of water works
the mountain streams and springs are made to
supply an abundance of pure water. Many of the
private residences and grounds are very handsome,
and the business blocks solid and elegantly constructed. Of the climate too much
cannot be said. Utah claims the finest climate in the United States. Colorado
makes the same assertion; so does California. There is no doubt that each of these
great commonwealths has good grounds for its claims. Colorado and Utah have
similar characteristics, while California is quite different; circumstances are
said to alter cases, and this saying holds true in climate as well as in other
matters. While the climate of Colorado or Utah might be a specific for one
class of diseases, that of California might be much more beneficial for
another class. The advice of an intelligent and unprejudiced physician
should be taken before an invalid decides on his choice of location. In Utah
the winters are short and mild, and the spring and fall months give almost perfect
weather; the summers are warm but not oppressively hot, and the nights are always
cool and never moist. Pulmonary troubles will surely find relief, and generally
a cure. Ten miles north of Ogden are Hot Springs, whose sulphur water
possesses peculiar medicinal properties, and are pronounced superior to the
Arkansas Springs. Hundreds of invalids visit these springs annually, and they are
steadily growing in popularity. The educational and religious advantages of
•Ogden are on a par with those of eastern cities of the same size. Here is the
centre of one of the richest agricultural and mining districts of Utah. Ogden
has better railroad facilities than any other town in the territory. It is affection-
ately called by its inhabitants the "Junction City of the West." It is the terminus
of five leading trunk lines, namely: The Denver & Rio Grande, the Union Pacific,
the Southern Pacific, the Utah & Northern, and the Utah Central Railroads.
The outlook for manufacturing is excellent, the Weber River furnishing almost
unlimited water power. Iron ore is found in great quantities in the near vicinity,
while the wool clip of the territory, and those of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana and
Nevada is enormous, and could be advantageously manufactured into cloth at this
point.

Geological Features. Looking from the car window after passing

127

128 OVER THE RANGE

Ogden, the traveler can see many things in this region indicating a thrilling geologi-
cal history. That striation, extending along the side of the foot hills to the
right, marks the water line of a vast, pre-historic inland sea, that shrunk ages ago
to the comparatively small proportions of Salt Lake. In all probability the whole
area between the Wasatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevadas was once an im-
mense body of water, in which the mountain ranges rose as islands. The lakes
of the present day are all that remain of this vast pre-historic sea. The deposits
which cover the low lands are chiefly calcareous, and are often filled with fresh
water and land shells, indicating a comparatively modern origin. The formation
of the islands and the shore ranges of Salt Lake is metamorphic, the strata are
distinctly marked and highly inclined, but attaining no great elevation, being
generally overlaid with sandstone and limestone of the carboniferous age, but partly
altered, the former constituting the loftier eminence, in places it is rich in fossils,
while in others it loses the granular character, and becomes sub crystalline or
threaded by veins of calcareous spar, the sandstones, from metamorphic action,
taking the character of quartz. As the train advances, evidences of volcanic action
become numerous.

I>ri jj'llillll. A half hour's ride from Ogden brings the traveler to Brigham,
a busy little town surrounded by an agricultural settlement, but possessing nothing
of special interest to the tourist. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Ogden, 17
miles. Elevation, 4,229 feet )

Corinne. Between Brigham and Corinne the Bear River is crossed by a
bridge twelve hundred feet in length. The town of Corinne has a good agricultural
country around it, and wherever irrigation has been secured large crops have
responded to industrious cultivation. The raising of stock, is also a tributary
industry, and cattle do well on the surrounding excellent ranges, which are found
in the greatest perfection north of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from
Ogden, 24 miles. Elevation. 4,231 feet.)

A small station surrounded by country covered

with sage brush, and only worthy of mention for its
history. At this point, on Monday, May 10, 1869,
the Union Pacific Railroad, building west and the

PROMONTORY.

A Point of

Historical Interest.

Central Pacific Railroad, building east, met. The
junction was made, and the news flashed all over
the world that the first great trans-continental rail-
road of America had become an accomplished fact.
The importance of that event cannot be overesti-
mated, and to enumerate the results emanating from that meeting would be
the task of a historian. An epitome of what that meeting meant can be best ex-
pressed by quoting that clever and quaintly humorous poem, written by Bret
Harte, commemorative of the occasion, under the title of

WHAT THE ENGINES SAID

What was it the Engines said,
Pilots touching — head to head,
Facing on the single track, ,
Half a world behind each back ?
This is what the Engines said
Unreported and unread :

With a prefatory screech.
In a florid Western speech,
Said the Engine from the West

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

" I am from Sierra's crest ;
And if altitude's a test,
Why, I reckon, it's confessed,
That I've done my level best "

Said the Engine from the East :
41 They who work best talk the least.
S'pose you whistle down your brakes ;
What you've done is no great shakes,—
Pretty fair, — but let our meeting
Be a different kind of greeting.
Let these folks with champagne stuffing,
Not their Engines,

44 Listen ! Where Atlantic beats
Shores of snow and summer heats ;
Where the Indian autumn skies
Paint the woods with wampum dyes,
I have chased the flying sun,
Seeing all he looked upon,
Blessing all that he has blest,
Nursing in my iion breast
All his vivifying heat,
All his clouds about my crest ;
And before my flying feet
Every shadow must retreat."

Said the Western Engine, 4'Phew !"
And a long, low whistle blew.
41 Come novv, really, that's the oddest
Talk for one so very modest, —
You brag of your East ! you do ?
Why, I bring the East to you t
All the Orient, all Cathay,
Find through me the shortest way,
And the sun you follow here
Rises in my hemisphere.
Really, — if one must be rude —
Length, my friend, ain't longitude."

Said the Union, " Don't reflect, or
I'll run over some Director."
Said the Central, " I'm Pacific,
But, when riled, I'm quite terrific,
Yet, to-day we shall not quarrel,
Just to show these folks this moral,
How two Engines — in their vision —
Once have met without collision."

That is what the Engines said,
Unreported and unread ;
Spoken slightly through the nose,
With a whistle at the close.

Monument. Before Monument is reached the side track stations of Rozel
and Lake are passed. At Rozel, the great Salt Lake is close to the track on the
left, and at Monument, a point of the same name extends into the lake. Here
we take our last view of the interesting and mysterious sea which has been our
almost constant companion since leaving Salt Lake City. Before us stretches
a vast unfertile country, and here, if anywhere, can be found that makeshift of the
easy going and old fashioned geography — the " Great American Desert."

Keltoil. This little place is situated on the eastern edge of the desert,
9

OVER THE RANGE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 131

and here tne water-trains of the railroad company ootain their supply of the
aqueous fluid and deliver to the stations to the westward on this division. Look-
ing to the north the traveler will see the Red Dome mountains, while to the
southeast rises Pilot Knob, a prominent feature in the landscape. (Population
small Distance from Ogden, 92 miles. Elevation, 4,222 feet.)

Towns ill tlie Desert. From Kelton to Toano the road traverses
the northern edge of the desert, amidst a scene of general desolation. In a general
way this unfertile region may be described as sixty square miles of alkaline sands,
evidently a portion of the great ocean bed already referred to Like the arid
country, between Fruita and Green River, in Utah, through which we came,
on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, which only needs irrigation to become
fertile, this region is the counterpart. The stations on the desert are of no special
interest, but as a matter of record may be named as follows : — Ombey, Matlin,
Terrace, Bovine, Lucin, Gartney, Tecoraa, Montello, Ullin, and Loray. The
train has been ascending the grade, and from Kelton, with an altitude of 4.222
feet, to Toano, with an altitude of 5,975 fest, we have made a net gain of 1,753
feet. The mountains to the south are the Toano Range, where mines have been
discovered, and which gave a phenomenal output of ore some fourteen years
ago, but concerning which, since that time, little has been heard. The great
peak almost directly south, which has been our landmark for the last fifty miles is
Pilot Knob, rising to a height of twenty-five hundred feet directly from the
plains. This Knob was the beacon of the early emigrant by which he steered his
ship of the desert, knowing that near it lay Humboldt Wells, where plenty of
water and grass could be obtained for his almost famished stock.

Toano. A little station marking the western verge of the desert. (Popula-
tion small. Distance from Ogden, 183 miles. Elevation, 5,975 feet.)
_ From Toano the ascent of Cedar Pass is begun.

For 22 miles the grade is upward, though not re-
markably steep, the road rising only 191 feet. The
Cedar Pass Range is comparatively low and ex-

CEDAR PASS,

The Divide between the

Humboldt River flows through these hills. The

Highest Elevation, Ruby Valley lies to the east, and is sixty miles long

6, 166 feet. .. ™, e

by ten wide. The valley is occupied by farmers

and is very fertile. There are a number of small
fakes in the valley, among which may be mentioned Ruby and Franklin.

Moors. This station occupies the summit of Cedar Pass. Snow sheds and
fences, which can be seen here and for some distance beyond, testify to the fact
that the elevation is such as to cause protection against the danger of snow block-
ades (Population small. Distance from Ogden, 210 miles. Elevation, 6,167 feet.)

"Wells. The grade has been a descending one since we left Moors, and
the descent will be continued for nearly three hundred miles. The railroad com-
pany has adopted the monosyllabic title of Wells for this station, but for nearly
half a century this place has borne the popular title of " Humboldt Wells." Here
the railroad repair shop and round house are located, and the town consists of these
and twenty-five or thirty other buildings, including a hotel. In this vicinity, the
emigrants in the old days of overland travel to California, were wont to make their
camp and recuperate their stock after the trying ordeal of the desert. The
wells from which the place takes its name are very curious, consisting of circular
openings in the ground varying in size, being from four to eight feet in diameter,
and filled to the brink with water. No bubbles arise on the surface of the water,

132 OVER THE RANGE

which trickles off through the grass and sinks into the porous soil. It is said that
the wells have been frequently sounded and no bottom found. The water is some-
what brackish. There are about twenty of these pools in the little valley, and their
life giving influence can be seen in the abundant growth of grass. Because of
these peculiar pools Wells is a station of considerable interest to the tourist. (Pop-
ulation, 243. Distance from Ogden, 219 miles. Elevation, 5,628 feet.)

Valley of the Huinboldt. After the journey across the desert, the
Valley of the Ilumboldt presents a most delightful appearance to the eyes of the
traveler, who is considerably wearied by the constant view of sand and sagebrush.
The valley is eighty miles in length and ten in breadth and is occupied by agricul-
turists and stock raisers. The river which makes this section of the country fertile
rises thirty miles northwest of Wells, and, flowing southwest nearly three hundred
miles, empties into Humboldt Lake, which has no outlet. The railroad follows the
river closely for two hundred and seventy miles and leaves it at Brown's Station,
where one has a fine view of the lake. The railroad follows for the greater part
of the way the north side of the river, while the old emigrant trail, parts of which
can yet be seen, pursues its course on the opposite side of the stream.

Tulasco, Bishops, Deeth, Halleck, Peko, Osino, are all small side track
stations, useful to the residents of the valley and to the railroad, but of no especial
interest to the tourist. After passing Peko, the railroad crosses the north fork of
the Humboldt River and at Osino a canon of the same name is entered, and we
reave behind us the pleasant valley of the Humboldt.

KllvO. This is one of the largest towns on the line since leaving Ogden.
It is the county seat of Elko County and is well supplied with churches, schools,
business blocks and comfortable residences. It is also the seat of the state uni-
versity. Elko is an important shipping point for stock and for the output of the
Eureka, Tuscarora, White Pine and Cape mines, all being within a radius of from
twenty-five to one hundred miles. Beyond Elko some ten miles the South Fork of
the Humboldt joins the river on the south, watering along its course an excellent
grazing country. (Population, 752. Distance from Ogden, 275 miles. Eleva-
tion, 5,065 feet.)

Carlin. Between Elko and Carlin is the small station of Moleen. Some
hay meadows intervene and the road passes through Five Mile Canon, where the
tourist will behold some rugged scenery. The railroad shops of the Humboldt
division of the road are at Carlin. Gold and silver mines within a radius of twenty
miles are tributary to the town. (Population, 394. Distance from Ogden, 298 miles.
Elevation, 4,897 feet.)

Twelve Mile Canon. The road pene-
trates the range of mountains (which trends from
north to south) by way of this caften. The walls
rise on either side in rugged grandeur, attaining in
places a height of a thousand feet. From the pe-

THE PALISADES OF
THE HUMBOLDT.

Height of Walls, 1,OOO

Objects of Interest,

Bed Cliff and Devil's

Peak.

feet* culiar stratification of the rocks resembling that of

the famous rockwalls of the Hudson, this canon has
been called the Palisades of the Humboldt. Red
Cliff is a striking promontory in the midst of the
cailon, stained with rubescent colors and rising
above the track for more than five hundred feet.

Palisade. This little town nestles in the heart of Twelve Mile Canon,
and is the junction point of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad with the Southern
Pacific. The former road is a narrow gauge and was built mainly to convey ore and

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 133

bullion to the great trunk line. Eureka, its terminus, is a mining town of about
six thousand populat on, engaged principally in mining. Here are stamp mills
and smelters handling fifty tons of ore daily. Palisade is the site of the machine
shops of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad and is also a great shipping point.
Beyond Palisade Station is Devil's Peak, an isolated projection on the south side
of the river, rising from the water to the height of three hundred feet.
(Population, 252. Distance from Ogden, 308 miles. Elevation, 4,840 feet.)

ClUTO. A small station which stands at the lower entrance of Twelve Mile
Canon, and is worthy of mention for this fact.

Gravelly Ford, This place is entitled to mention because of its
historic interest. It was here that the old California trail crossed the river. The
"Ford" was often the scene of Indian raids, and the hardy pioneers and ihe
aborigines more than once tried conclusions here, and the blood of both the white
and the red man often stained the flow of the Humboldt.

Beowawe, At this point the Humboldt forces its way through the Red
Range of mountains forming a natural " gate," which is the significance of the
name Beowawe in the Indian tongue. Beyond the station the road passes through
bottom lands covered with a thick growth of shrubbery, the willow predominating.
To the south eight or ten miles lies Hot Springs Valley, taking its title from the
hot springs which are found there in great number. These springs are inter-
mittent in their flow, resembling in this characteristic, though in a lesser degree,
the geysers of the Yellowstone. Beowawe is a station of no very great commer
cial importance, but possesses interest because of the peculiar features of the sur-
rounding country. (Population small. Distance from Ogden, 326 miles. Eleva-
tion, 4,695 feet.)

The Valley Region. To the north and south of the Humboldt and
nearly opposite Argenta, are several valleys ; among the most important is
Paradise Valley — to the north — sixty miles long by ten miles wide, and settled
by prosperous ranchmen. Eden Valley, also to the north, is twenty miles long by
five miles broad, and thickly settled. Reese River Valley, is to the south, of variable
width, not wider than ten miles, and about seventy-five miles in length. The Reese
River possesses the peculiarity of sinking into the sand before it reaches the Hum-
boldt, and only in times of great abundance of water does it flow beyond the
of its subsidence.

Battle Mountain. Important as a shipping station for the m
regions in the hills to the north and south ; also the junction of the Nevada Cen-
tral Railroad with the Southern Pacific. This is a narrow gauge, and its southern
terminus is Austin, ninety-three miles distant from Battle Mountain, with
a population of three thousand. The Nevada Central penetrates a rich mining
district, and not less than twenty camps contribute to its prosperity. Battle
Mountain takes its name from the range of mountains to the north of the Hum-
boldt, between the Reese River and Owyhee ranges. (Population, 522. Distance
from Ogden, 359 miles. Elevation, 4,511 feet.)

Golconda. A station for the shipment of ores supplied by adjacent
gold and silver mines. The Golconda mine is the nearest, being three miles to the
south. (Population, 335. Distance from Ogden, 402 miles. Elevation, 4,392
feet.)

Winnemucca. County seat of Humboldt County, and the end of the
Humboldt and Truckee divisions of the line. Here are located the shops of the rail-
road company, which give steady employment to a considerable number of men.
The town derives its name from a noted Indian Chief who made his home in this

AT THE GOLDEN GATE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

135

HUMBOLDT.

An Oasis in the Desert.

The Effect of Irriga-
tion.

Distance from Ogden,
459 miles.

Population, 32.
Elevation, 4,236 feet.

region. (Population, 2,000. Distance from Ogden, 419 miles. Elevation, 4,333
feet )

The Nevada Desert. We have now fairly entered upon the Nevada
Desert, which we shall travel over to the westward until Wadsworth is reached, a
distance of 138 miles. This stretch of country is the most desolate and the most
uninteresting of any of the deserts crossed on the transcontinental journey. It
is characterized by an almost total absence of vegetation of any kind, and by a
remarkable distribution of scoria, the remains of extinct volcanic action. These
deposits of black lava are scattered over a grayish expanse of sand, and are
of a general cubical form, varying in size from that of a pea to that of a good-sized
house.

As the train stops at Humboldt, the passengers
are surprised to see a beautiful little park rilled with
thrifty trees and carpeted with luxuriant green-
sward. This oasis in the desert is the result of
irrigation, and the fountain of cold, clear water that
throws its rainbow tinted spray into the air, tells the
story as to how this magical transformation has been
brought about. The charm of contrast is complete,
and taking all things into consideration, I know of
no place to be met with on the trip across the
continent that the tourist will regard with more
pleasure than the unexpected vision of this emerald
of the desert. Star Peak, the highest mountain in the Humboldt Range, crowned
with perpetual snow, can be seen only seven miles distant to the northeast, and
it is a pleasure to learn that the desert gives way to the Lanson Meadows five
miles to the northwest, from which large crops of hay are cut.

Rye Patch, A small station, which derives its name from the fact that
wild rye grows here in great quantities. There is in operation here a ten-stamp
mill which is supplied with ore from the Eldorado and Rye Patch mining districts
lying to the east within a radius of fifteen miles. (Population, 65. Distance from
Ogden, 470 miles. Elevation, 4,257 feet.)

Oreaiia. A small station of no especial interest. A smelter is located
here, and the widened expanse of the river at this point is owing to the fact that
a dam has been thrown across it to secure water power. The railroad crosses the
Humboldt five miles west of Oreana. (Population, 55. Distance from Ogden, 480
miles. Elevation, 4,181 feet.)

BrowilS. At Browns station the tourist has a good view of Ilumboldt
Lake, as the road approaches it closely. The town itself is of minor importance.
(Population, 25. Distance from Ogden, 508 miles. Elevation, 3,929 feet.)

Mirage. Side track station, .deriving its name from the phenomenon
peculiar to the desert, which has allured many an early emigrant to destruction
through its deceptive influences. The green trees, the lake of bright water in which
can be seen the reflection of surrounding objects, which the mirage presents 'o
view, are only optical illusions, and those who left the beaten track to seek the
refreshment apparently at hand, frequently paid the penalty of their rashness with
'heir lives. (Population, small. Distance from Ogden, 520 miles. Elevation,
4,247 feet.)

136 OVER THE RANGE

THE LAKE REGION.

Facts Concerning
Interesting

A glance at the map of Nevada will reveal the
fact that we have now reached what may very
appropriately be called the lake region. These
lakes have not the clear, sweet water which one
generally associates with the term ; but on the

contrary are brackish, and hold great quantities
Bodies of Water.

of alkali and chloride of sodium m solution. The

most important of these lakes are:

Humboldt Lake. This sheet of water takes its name from the river
which flows into, or rather through it; the fact being that the waters of the river
are collected in this basin, and are then conducted further west into Carson Sink —
or Lake. All the drainage carried in the channel of the Humboldt River, in its
course of three hundred and fifty miles, is concentrated here ; the surplus, as has
been said, passing south into Carson Lake which has no outlet. Humboldt Lake is
thirty-five miles long by ten miles wide.

Carson Lake. This lake, which receives the waters of the Humboldt
River, through Carson Sink, is due south from Humboldt Lake, and has no outlet.
The map shows two distinct bodies of water, namely : Carson Sink and Carson
Lake; but during the prevalence of rain both are united, and cover a large extent
of country. Carson Lake proper, is twenty miles long by ten wide.

Mud. Lake is situated north of Granite Point, some fifty miles. The
famous "Black Rock " stands at the head of Mud Lake. This promontory is
eighteen hundred feet in height, and a strong feature in the landscape. The name
of this lake is especially descriptive of its peculiar characteristics, especially during
the summer when the water is low and muddy. It has no outlet, and at its season
of greatest enlargement is fifty miles long by twenty broad.

"Winnemucca Lake is of small extent, being about fifteen miles long by
ten wide ; it has connection with Pyramid Lake, which lies a short distance to the
eastward

Pyramid Lake is made the receptacle of the waters of the Truckee River,
the outlet of Lake Tahoe, and is about twice the size of Winnemucca Lake, being
thirty miles long by twenty broad.

Walker's Lake has no outlet. It is fifty miles long by twenty wide,
and lies about a hundred miles to the south of Mirage.

Hot Springs. A small station, taking its name from the springs which
send up the steam from their heated waters on the right of the track. (Population,
42. Distance from Ogden, 535 miles. Elevation, 4,072 feet.)

Desert. This is the last station in the Nevada Desert, marking its western
boundary. From here the grade is an ascending one, and when Wadsworth is
reached, nine miles beyond, the desert will have been left entirely. (Population
small. Distance from Ogden, 546 miles. Elevation, 4,018 feet.)

Wadsworth. The tourist finds a pleasant greeting at Wadsworth, for on
arriving at the station he sees a beautiful little park, neatly enclosed and orna-
mented with a carefully kept lawn and handsome shade trees. The park is not so
extensive as that at Humboldt, but is none the less a delight after the long journey
across the desert. The town is situated on the eastern bank of the Truckee River,
and is prosperous and well built. Here are located the railroad shops for this
division of the railroad, and considerable freight business is transacted with the
mining camps situated to the south. The Truckee River has its source in lakes
Tahoe and Donner, and is a pure and sparkling stream. Six miles south are the
Pine Grove Copper Mines, while ten miles south are the Desert Gold Mines

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

137

tributary to Wadsworth.
Elevation, 4,085 feet).

(Population, 661. Distance from Ogden, 555 miles.

RENO.

Junctional Point.

Distance from Ogden,
589 inlles.

Population, 4,302
Altitude, 4,49? feet.

In addition to being the county-seat of Washoe
County, Reno is a thriving business centre. It
possesses all the modern improvements, including
electric lights. Its business blocks are well built
and its public buildings creditable to the city. The
town was named after General Reno, wht> lost his
life in the baUle of South Mountain. This is the
Junctional point for the Nevada & California Rail-
road, a narrow gauge, the present terminus for
which is Moran. Here also the tourist can take
the Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson City,

Virginia City and points to the north and south. Condensing the statement of
connections, they are as follows : Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson, Virginia
and Mound House, connecting there with Carson & Colorado Railroad for Haw-
thorne (stages for Aurora and Bodie), and for Belleville, Candelaria and Keeler;
Nevada & California Railroad for Moran (stages for Millford, Susanville, Quincy,
Fort Bidwell, Cal., etc. Stages can also be taken to Eagleville, Alturas, Cedarville
and Lake View or Davis Creek. Reno possesses a lively interest to the traveler,
as it is the junction point to the world famed Comstock Mines.

Climbing the Sierra Nevada Range, After leaving Reno the
grades grow steeper, and the traveler prepares himself for the grand and striking
scenery which he will have the pleasure of beholding until the passage of the Sierra
Nevada Mountains has been made. For fifty miles the ascent continues until
Summit Station is reached, the highest point attained by the Southern Pacific Rail-
road on its transcontinental line from Ogden to San Francisco. From Reno the
road follows up the course of the Truckee River, and soon enters Truckee Canon.
The course of the river is tortuous and the road quickly changes sides, giving
varied and interesting views of towering rocks, foaming waters and pine clad
mountains. In quick succession the following small stations are passed :

Verdi, Essex, Mystic, Floriston, Boca, Prosser Creek, Proctor and Winsted.
The country between Verdi and Proctor seems pretty well given up to the
production of lumber, great quantities of ties, logs and boards being piled beside
the track. The river is used as a facile means of transporting these products'of
the forest. Ice store houses also abound here.

Truckee. Roofed like an alpine village to shed the deep, moist snows of
winter, Truckee stands at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The
town is well built and extends mainly along the north bank of the Truckee River.
Lumber is the leading industry, and where the town now stands, once stood a dense
forest. It is estimated that the Truckee Basin will supply at least 4,000,000,000
feet of lumber, or enough to keep the saw mills going at their present rate for a hun-
dred years. The machine shops and round house t'or this division of the railroad
are located here. Truckee is the shipping point for Donner Lake and the towns of
the Sierra Valley. Stages can be taken for Lake Tahoe (fourteen miles), Donner
Lake (two miles), and Webber Lake; also for Sierraville, Sierra City and Plumas
Eureka Mine. (Population, 1,500. Distance from Ogden, 623 miles. Elevation
5,819 feet.)

OVER THE RANGE

"There is a grandeur and enchantment at all times in the scenery which
environs the lakes of this region and never-ending means of pleasure and exhil-
aration on their waters; and the panorama of mountain and valley, meadow-land
and woodland, sunshine and cloud, as viewed from Tahoe City is spacious, inspir-
iting and impressive. This view is an unspeakably fine one; within the magnificent
frame of the Tahoe range is Lake Tahoe, sometimes tranquil, sometimes turbulent
but always lovely. The summer sunsets on Lake Tahoe are remarkable for their
great bea'uty and wealth of coloring and are grander than those mirrored on Lakes

Como and Maggiore. No painter
would ever dare to put upon canvas
the variegated colors of Tahoe's wa-
ters in a summer sunset. It would
appear such an exaggeration that he
would lose caste among those who
demand that the artist's pencil shall
be true to nature. None but those
who have witnessed the scene would
be persuaded of its reality. Such
beauty could not be were it not foi
the highly reflective qualities of the
pure translucent waters which serve
as a polished mirror of French

plate glass." Such is the glowing
language of a much traveled author,
whose words, though eloquent, fail
of depicting the entrancing loveliness
of the scenes which one can here be-
hold. But it is no reflection upon
the descriptive powers of any writer
to say that he has fallen short of the
reality. Surely if these scenes are
beyond the powers of the artist, no
discredit can follow when the writer's
pen fails to attain to the full measure
of their grandeur and beauty.

TAHOE
SCENERY.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 130

LAKE TAHOE,

The " Gem of the

Mountains."

Distance from Truckee,
14 miles.

Length, of Lake,
•.".' miles.

Breadth of Lake
1O miles.

Depth, 1,70O feet.

Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful moun-
tain lakes in the world, lies in the heart of the
Sierras, 6,216 feet above the sea, while mountain
peaks' surround it, rising to an additional height ot
from two to four thousand feet. It is 22 miles in
length, 10 miles in breadth and from 100 to 1,700
feet in depth. Its waters are famous the world over
for their crystal purity, and their transparency is so
absolute that the fish, which abound in great
numbers, can be seen distinctly as they swim
beneath you, at a distance of eighty feet. On its
lovely shores are situated some of the most delight-
ful summer resorts. The mid-summer air is cool
and invigorating, the hunting and fishing excellent

and the landscape picturesque and a never-ending delight to the eye. The ride by-
stage from Truckee to the lake, is a most charming experience, and is thus
described by Mr. N. H. Chittenden, a traveler of some distinction : " It was a
glorious morning, bright and cool, a rain having fallen the previous evening,
tempering the dry mountain air, fragrant with the sweet odor of the pines, to a
delicious, exhilarating freshness, and also effectually laying the dust. It is a
magnificent drive, following: up the dashing Truckee, a fitting outlet for the
world's crowning gem of mountain lakes. From thirty to fifty feet in width,
clear as crystal pure and cold; it courses swiftly down the mountains, frequently
a foaming rapid, but interrupted in its headlong descent by several dams. The
valley is from three-quarters to a mi'e across, the mountains generally not precipitous
or very high, though presenfing several bold, towering granite cliffs and peaks from
five hundred to one thousand and eight hundred feet above the river. The most prom-
inent of these, from their resemblance to the human face, are known as the ' Old
Woman ' and ' Old Man ' of the mountains, and the ' Duke of Wellington.' Thick
forests of red, yellow and sugar pine, fir and cedar, extend the whole way,
except where cleared by the lumbermen. The great saw mill companies are
annually cutting millions of feet of the choicest trees, having already advanced
about eight miles up the river and back three or four miles therefrom. The lum-
ber flumes extend from the great mills at Truckee to the farthest camps, and the
sides of the mountains are grooved with log chutes. Down the former are run vast
quantities of wood and timber, while down the latter immense logs are shot, with
the velocity of thunderbolts, into the river. At the Eight-Mile Crossing, a five-foot
monster plunged in as we passed, striking a forerunner fairly endwise, with
terrific force, and the noise of distant thunder. Horse railways and long ox teams
*\re also employed in hauling out the logs from over the summit of the mountains."
The tour of the lake is made by an excursion steamer which is taken at Tahoe
City. The surroundings of the lake are picturesque in the extreme. Beginning at
the right, the coronet of mountains, which surrounds the lake, may be named as
follows: the Rubicon Peaks, 9,287 feet above the sea; Mount Tallac, 9,715 feet
in height ; Mount Ralston, 9,140 feet; Pyramid Peak. 10,052 feet; Job's Peak,
10,637 feet; Geneva Peak, 9 135, and the summits of the Tahoe Range. Down the
steep, forest-covered sides of these mountains swiftly descend numerous beautiful
streams, Ward's Creek, Blackvvood's, McKinney's, Phipp's, Meek's Bay, Lonely
Gulch, Cascade Falls, Cascade Lake, Taylor, Little Truckee River, Big Truckee
River, Jim Small's Creek, Sevory Cove Creek, Glenbrook, Secret Harbor, Big,
Griffin's, Cornelian Bay and Gordon's Creek being the most important.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 141

The shores of Lake Tahoe are indented with beautiful bays, Crystal, Corne-
lian, Meeks and Emerald, the latter being the largest and most frequented. It is
about eighteen miles from Tahoe City, three miles long, and about half a mile in
width. Ben Holladay built a summer residence here, which his family occupied
until it was burned in 1879.

Capt. Dick, an eccentric old English sailor, chose this wild mountain retreat
for his home, built a cabin, and chiseled out a tomb in the solid rock, on the lonely
rock-bound island near the entrance. Falling overboard, while intoxicated, Lake
Tahoe, which it is said, never gives up its dead, became his last resting-place, in-
stead of the grave he had prepared.

The shores of the lake are dotted with summer residences and pleasure resort
villages. Among the latter may be mentioned Tahoe City, Glenbrook, Tallac,
Rowlands and McKinneys. Glenbrook is a very pretty village and is the business
centre for Lake Tahoe. The thousand and one attractions of this lovely lake can
obtain but little justice in so brief a description as can be given here; indeed, the
most elaborate description would fall far short of the reality, and only he who has
had the extreme good fortune to visit the spot can form an adequate idea of its charms.

Doimer Lake. Made memorable by the
terrible fate of the Uonner party, thirty-four of
whom died of starvation on its shores in the year
1846, and taking its name from the leader of this
unfortunate company, Donner Lake commands
especial attention for its historical associations. Its

DONNER, WEBBER,

INDEPENDENCE

LAKES.

Waters of Crystal

Whiteness.

beauty gives it a leading position among the lakes
of the Sierras and has been made familiar through
the well known paintings, by Bierstadt. Only three
miles from Truckee, it is easy of access. It is about
three miles long, one and a half miles wide, and
two hundred and fifty feet deep. Its shores are
gravelly and the lake is surrounded by great forests of pine, fir and tamarack.

Webber Lake, a perfect gem, lies in the Sierra Nevadas, about twenty-
six miles from Truckee, at an altitude of 6,925 feet above the sea level. It is
circular in shape ; its waters crystal white, and with a depth of eighty-four feet.
It is considered one of the finest fishing grounds in California, the trout being
large and numerous, gamey and delicious. About three-quarters of a mile away
from the lake are the falls, having a descent of 105 feet.

Independence Lake, sixteen miles from Truckee, and ten miles from
Webber, is another one of those beautiful gems. It is two and one-half miles long
and three-quarters of a mile wide. Its waters are alive with trout.

Climbing the Sierra Nevada Range. The ascent of the Sierras
begins at Truckee. In order to protect travelers from delay in inclement weather,
the railroad company have constructed an almost uninterrupted line of snow
sheds for forty miles. These sheds interrupt the view, but they serve an
eminently practical purpose and are necessary for winter travel. Through the
loopholes cut in the sides of the sheds the tourist catches tantalizing glimpses
of magnificent scenery. Donner Lake can be seen below us, gleaming like a dia-
mond in its granite setting, while a panorama of pine-clad hills and splintered
mountain pinnacles is spread before us. Plunging onward through the snow sheds,
the two great engines drag the train upward, while below can be seen the winding
roadway we are ascending. Rumbling through a tunnel the train comes to a halt
on the highest railroad point in the Sierras.

142 OVER THE RANGE

Appropriately named, this station is the sum-
mit of our railroad ascent. For many years it
held the pre-eminence as the highest railroad point

in North America, and it still deserves renown

Point in the Sierra ^ the firgt tQ lay c]aim tQ SQ loftv an estate This

Aevadas. .

is the divide from which flow various streams

SUMMIT.

The Highest Railroad

Elevation, 7,017 feet.

Distance from Ogden,
638 miles.

through devious courses to empty at last at widely
divergent points into the great Sacramento. Among
these streams are the Bear, the American and the
South Yuba Rivers. The scenery around Summit is
of the grandest description. The mountains tower above us to an altitude of ten
thousand feet. Lakes lie below us and waterfalls glimme'r down the sides of dis-
tant precipices. Here the sportsman can find ample scope for enjoyment. Bear
and deer and a vast variety of game haunt the wooded fastnesses and the streams
abound in trout. The east-bound tourist who wishes to visit Lakes Tahoe and
Donner can take the stage at Summit, and, after enjoying the delights of the
mountain drive and an unobstructed view of the scenery, together with a satisfying
visit to the lakes, can again resume his journey by taking the cars at Truckee, thus
avoiding the up grade return to Summit.

Cascade. Six miles beyond Summit we pass Cascade, crossing a branch of
the Yuba River. To the westward lies Summit Valley, a charming spot for a sum-
mer resting place. It is well watered and abounds in luxuriant meadows, which
are utilized by stock and dairy men, who have found here an ideal spot for their
purposes. Cascade is a growing shipping point for cattle and their products.
(Population, 28. Distance from Ogden, 644 miles. Elevation, 6,538 feet.)

Soda Spring's. Many large soda springs give their name to this side
track. Their waters are pleasant to the taste and medicinal in character. One of
the springs has been improved and its waters are bottled for shipment. There are
also hot springs in the near vicinity. (Population small. Distance from Ogden,
647 miles. Elevation, 6,749 feet.)

Emigrant Gap. Here we catch the last sight of the old emigrant wagon
road, which we have seen from time to time for the last two hundred and fifty
miles. (Population, 20. Distance from Ogden, 659 miles. Elevation, 5,221 feet.)

Blue Cafion, Shady Run, Towles, and Alta, are small stations which we pass
in rapid succession.

Dutch Flat. Population, 500. (Distance from Ogden, 675 miles. Eleva-
tion, 3,595 feet.)

Historic Ground. To the "men of '49" the names of Alta and
Dutch Flat call up many memories of stirring times. The stages still run from
Dutch Flat to "You Bet" and "Red Dog," where mines are still worked;
but the palmy days made historic by the achievements of the "John Oakhursts,"
" Sandy McGees," and " Hank Monks" have passed away. A glimpse can be
caught of a scenic attraction of paramount interest as the train passes Shady Run.
This is the famous American Canon, with walls two thousand feet high, and of
such wonderful perpendicularity that the American River, which flows between
them, has never been ascended for a distance of two miles — the extent of the caflon.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 143

CAPE HORN

A Scenic Wonder.

There are few mountain passes more famous
than that known to the world as "Cape Horn."
The approach to it is picturesque. The north
fork of the American River is seen raging and
foaming in its rocky bed, fifteen hundred feet
below and parallel with the track. A little further
on we see the north fork of the North River leap-
ing in snowy cascades down the mountain side.
The train rolls on and soon is clinging to the side
of a mountain wall, which climbs to the clouds above it and drops to the waters
beneath ; a hand thrust from the window of the car could drop a stone straight
as the plummet falls, into the chasm, two thousand five hundred feet below. We
are rounding Cape Horn ! The road having been carved from the solid rock,
the workmen, when building the same were suspended from the cliff above by
means of ropes until they had blasted sufficient to gain a foothold. A beautiful
valley lies beneath us to the left, and across this vale on the opposite side can be
seen the line of road on which we shall soon appear. The descent now begins, and
Rice's Ravine is crossed, the trestle bridge being 878 feet in length and 113 feet in
height. The narrow gauge railroad, which we see beneath us, is the line from
Colfax to Nevada City. From the trestle we pass to an embankment, and from
the embankment to the solid roadway on the side of the bluff. We have followed
the curving road until now we are opposite the tremendous precipice, from whose
fearful height we have but just descended.

Colfax. Named after the statesman, Schuyler Colfax, a steadfast friend to
the Southern Pacific Railroad during the early days of its existence. This town is
thriving and prosperous. Fruit raising has taken the place of the original industry
of mining, and the financial results appear to be eminently satisfactory. There is
a large and handsome depot erected at this place, it being the distributing point
for Grass Valley, Nevada City, and a large area of agricultural and mining
country. The trains of the Nevada County Railroad (narrow gauge) run to and
from this depot. (Population, 400. Distance from Ogden, 689 miles. Elevation,
2,422 feet )

Auburn. The approach to Auburn is made through a rugged country, a
tunnel seven hundred feet in length being passed just before reaching Clipper Gap
— beyond this can be seen the famous gold fields, now abandoned. The town of
Auburn is embowered with fruit trees, is well-built and prosperous. Many of the
residents of San Francisco and Sacramento spend a part of their summers at this
mountain town. Fruit raising has usurped the place of mining among these foot
hills of the western slope — vineyards, orchards and vegetable gardens, are now
seen on all sides. This condition of things exists all along the slope, and for a
distance of twenty miles we pass through California's semi tropical fruit belt. The
quarrying of stone and stock raising are also important industries. (Population,
1,700. Distance from Ogden, 707 miles. Elevation, 1,360 feet.)

Newcastle. Is situated in the midst of a rich farming region, and is an
important shipping point for all California fruits. Here are also a number of
extensive canning and fruit drying establishments, with unlimited capacity. The
early citrous fruits are grown and shipped from this point. (Population, 350. Ele-
vation, 956. Distance from Ogden, 712 miles.)

Kocklin. This little town lies at the base of the foothills, and is famed for
the excellent quality of the granite found in its quarries. The round house and
machine shops of the railroad company located here are built of this material.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 145

The State House at Sacramento is also erected of Rocklin granite. (Population,
800. Distance from Ogden, 721 miles. Elevation, 249 feet.)

Junction. This station is the junction point for the east side of the great
Sacramento Valley and Portland, Oregon ; it is here the branch of the Southern
Pacific Railroad intercepts the main Transcontinental Line. (Population, 250.
Distance from Ogden, 725 miles. Elevation, 163 feet.)

The Plains Region. A glance from the car window, or a reference to
the elevation of Junction Station, given in the paragraph above, will show the
tourist that the region of mountains and foothills lies behind him. and that the
fertile plains of California have been reached. Broad expanses of gently rolling
country greet the eye, dotted here and there with the round-topped, dark-foliaged
live oaks, which form strikingly characteristic features in the landscape. Here
and beyond in the Sacramento Valley are the great wheat fields of the State, famous
in the past for their enormous yield and the magnificent scale upon which the
raising of this cereal is carried on. Now, however, fruit raising is gradually
usurping this territory, and orchards and vineyards are frequently seen.

American River Bridge. This bridge spans the current of the
American River, and Sacramento is only three miles distant. (Distance from
Ogden, 740 miles. Elevation, 49 feet.)

_^_____^^^^_^^_ As is the almost universal rule in the case

of large cities one gets a very unsatisfactory view
of the town from the railroad station. Several

SACRAMENTO,

California's Capital.

Population, 33,000.
Elevation, 30 feet.

Distance from Ogden,
743 miles.

days can be pleasantly and profitably spent by the
tourist in Sacramento. It is handsomely built, and
its shaded streets and flower ornamented yards pre-
sent an exceedingly attractive appearance. It has
a complete system of street railways, including a
recently established and successful line of electric
cars Being the capital of California, the county
seat of Sacramento County, and the second commercial city in the State, it has a
most prosperous present and promising future. More trains arrive and depart each
day than in any other town or city in the State. Sacramento, being the geographical
centre, it is the great distributing point for California. Three-fourths of all the
fruits shipped from this State each year are shipped from this point. It is at this
place all the principal buyers and shippers locate for the purchase of fruits and
vegetables. The Central Pacific Railroad shops (which employ from 2,000
to 3,000 men constantly, covering an area of twenty-five acres of land), the
largest cannery and packing houses in the State, a woolen mill, foundry, machine
shops, etc., are located in Sacramento. For a manufacturing town, the location
of Sacramento City cannot be excelled. It is ninety miles from San Francisco,
with which it is connected by six daily trains, and by river steamers. Many of its
wholesale houses rival those at San Francisco in the amount of business transacted.
It has fine wide streets lined with shade trees, many substantial business blocks,
elegant residences, and good hotels. The State Capitol, State Printing Office,
State Agricultural Exposition Building (the largest west of the Missouri river), a
Free Library, the largest Art Gallery (with one or two exceptions) in the United
States, an Old Ladies' Home (where old ladies have the same care and attention,
if not better, than they would have in their own homes), are located in Sacramento
City, The two latter were donated to the city by that most estimable and philan-
thropic of ladies, Mrs. E. B. Crocker. In fact, Sacramento is the great metropolis
of the Sacramento valley.
10

146 OVER THE RANGE

The first railroad in California, extending from Sacramento into El Dorado
County, was formally opened on February 22d. 1856 Work on the Central Pacific
Railroad was inaugurated at Sacramento, January 8th, 1863, and the last spike was
driven May loth, 1869. Sacramento is on the line of the California & Oregon,
Western Pacific, Central Pacific, California Pacific, and Sacramento & Placerville
Railroads. All these roads are of the Southern Pacific System. The Company's
principal hospital, is also located in this city. A line of steamboats runs to
San Francisco on the Sacramento River and the bay, and another as far up the
same stream as Red Bluff. The Sacramento River is spanned opposite the
•city by a railroad and wagon bridge, connecting it with the town of Washington,
Yolo County ; and the American River is bridged on the line of Twelfth
street, and also by a railroad bridge a short distance above. All the bridges
in the county and all roads are free. The Capital of California was permanently
located at Sacramento, Februaiy 25th, 1854, and in 1869 the present Capitol
Building was completed, at a cost of about $3000,000. The building is the
.finest in the state In the Capital Park are also the exposition pavilion of the
State Agricultural Society, and the State Printing Office, in which are printed, in
addition to the usual work for the State, the text-books for use in the public
schools. The State Agricultural Society has also an extensive park for the
exhibition of stock, and one of the finest race tracks in the world. The State fairs
are annually held in September. The Masons and Odd Fellows have each imposing
temples, in which their lodge rooms are located. The United States Government
has purchased a site for a Post Office Building, to be erected immediately, for which
an appropriation of $100,000 has been made. The County Court House (formerly
used for a State Capitol) cost $200,000; and a brick and iron Hall of Records has
recently been completed at a cost of $50,000. The County Hospital built on the
pavilion plan, can accommodate one hundred and seventy- five patients, and cost
$75,000. The State Library contains some sixty thousand volumes; the Free
Public Library, of twelve thousand volumes, with the two story building in which
it is contained, is the property of the City, and is maintained by a City tax.
The Order of Odd-Fellows maintain a library of about eight thousand volumes.
The Crocker Art Gallery is also the property of the City. It is a brick and iron
building, three stories high, and in it are contained some of the finest paintings
and statuary, together with an extensive cabinet of minerals, the property of the
State.

Webster. Leaving Sacramento, and crossing the Sacramento River on
a bridge 600 feet in length, the train passes through Webster, which is a
suburb of the city. Beyond we cross a belt of swampy country known locally as
" The Tuiles." The track is elevated above the danger of floods by means of
embankments and a trestle bridge.

Davis. This place is the junction with the main line of a branch passing
through the west side of the Sacramento Valley to Tehama, the country round
about being rich and fertile, and capable of producing an unlimited amount of
fruit, cereals and vegetables. Distance from Ogden, 736 miles.

Fremont, Dixon, Batavia are soon passed, when we arrive at

ELMIRA.

Junction Point

Vaca and Capay
Valleys.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1&

BIB^ At this point the tourist will do well to take the

side trip through the great Vaca and Capay Valleys.
These valleys supply all the earliest fruits and
vegetables. The soil is of surprising fertility,
yielding bountifully of every crop with no necessity
for irrigation. The climate is superb it being a
continual Indian summer the entire year. The
health of the inhabitants, their industry, wealth and
prosperity, have all tended to make this place the
most desirable for settlement. Semi-tropical and citrus fruits grow luxuriantly,
and are of unusual size and lusciousness. These valleys are veritable gardens of
Eden, and a continuous panorama of a beautiful and picturesque country.
Cannon and Suisun are more or less important stations, but of no especial
interest to the tourist. Having passed Suisun the waters of Suisun Bay approach
the track, and at high tide ripple against the embankment. For twelve miles
this bay is always in close proximity.

Army Point. Distance from Ogden, 797 miles. This is the station for
the headquarters of the United States army in California.

Beniciil. Situated on the southern slope of the Suscal hills, Benicia extends
down to the bank of the Sacramento River. This is the head of navigation for
sea-going ships and is a very charmingly situated city. Benicia was at one time
the capital of California, but is now a quiet residence town, with a number of
large manufacturing interests to maintain its commercial importance. (Population,
3t200 Distance from Ogden, 800 miles. Elevation, 10 feet.)

Crossing the Straits of Carquinez. From Benicia to Port Costa
the journey is continued on the Solano, the largest ferry boat in the world. This
bpat can transport at one time fifty-four loaded freight cars and consequently finds
no difficulty in bearing our entire train safely across the straits, a distance of one
mile, with an expenditure of little if any more than twenty minutes of time. To
most, this experience is a novel one, and the cars are quickly emptied by their
occupants, and the tourists gaze delightedly at the broad expanse of waters and
inhale gratefully the invigorating saline odors wafted from the neighboring ocean.
The cars are run directly on to the boat and when Port Costa is reached the
journey by rail is resumed.

Port Costa. Here the sea-going ships can be seen lying close to the
wharfs, and the tourist begins to appreciate the fact that his long journey to the
Pacific coast is nearly completed. At this point the Southern Pacific's line to Los
Angeles branches to the southwest.

Vallejo Junction. The town of Vallejo lies across the straits a distance
of two miles. At this junction a branch line runs to Napa and Calistoga, also to
Santa Rosa.

Pinole, Another town of wharfs and warehouses.

Sixteenth Street, Oakland. This is the small station for the large city
of Oakland. The great Bay of San Francisco lies to our right and beyond can be
seen the spires of San Francisco.

Oakland. Pier. This marvel of engineering has been constructed for two
miles directly out into the bay. At its terminus is an immense building containing
waiting rooms and all necessary accommodations for the convenience of the great
army of travelers who disembark on the arrival of trains. Alt the passenger trains
for the east, north or south are made up at this depot, and here all incoming
passengers leave their trains and are transported on magnificent ferry boats to San
Francisco.

SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO.

SAN FRANCISCO.

The Great City

by
The Golden Gate.

Population,
400,000.

The first view of San Francisco which the over-
land tourist obtains from the bow of the ferry boat
that bears him from Oakland Pier to the foot of
Market street, is most enchanting. A city set on a
hill, beautiful for situation, it commands attention
and demands the most enthusiastic admiration.
Nor does "familiarity breed contempt." The first
pleasant impression is confirmed and deepened by
every day's experience within the gates of this most
hospitable and beautiful city. Fitz Hugh Ludlow,
whose early death was a great loss to literature, if
one may judge by the early fruitage of a tree too

soon cut down by cruel frost, speaks glowing words, and true <3nes of this city by
the sea. He says: 4< To a traveler paying his first visit, it has the interest of a new
planet. It ignores the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world.
There is no snow. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no.
aphelion or perihelion in his custom; the thin woolen suit made in April, is com-
fortably worn until April again. Save that in so-called winter frequent rain-
Jails alternate with spotless intervals of amber weather, and that soi-disant
summer is an entire amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it,
there is no inequality on which to forbid the bans between May and December. In
San Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature. The wealth of
that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the poverty of
dabblers in private theatricals — a single flat doing service for the entire play.
Thus, save for the purposes of notes of hand, the almanac of San Francisco might
replace its mutable months and seasons with one great, kindly, constant, sumptu-
ous All the Year 'Round. Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are
produced ! Fruit enough, metaphorical ; for the scientific man or artist who
cannot make hay while such a sun shines, from April to November, must be a
slothful laborer, indeed, But, fruit also literal ; for what joy of vegetation is lack-
ing to the man who, every month in the year, can look through his study window
on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his breakfast. Who can sit
down to this royal fruit, and at the same time to apricots, peaches, nectarines,
blackberries, raspberries, melons, figs, both yellow and purple, early apples and
grapes of many kinds."

But aside from the claims of climate, which appealed so strongly to Ludlow,
San Francisco has artistic and architectural claims that command respect and
admiration, to say nothing of her vast commercial and mercantile interests.

San Francisco has suffered greatly from fire in the past, but has always
arisen from its ashes in renewed beauty. A condensed history of these great
conflagrations may be of interest :

149

150 OVER THE RANGE

December 24th, 1849. First great fire. More than $1,000,000 worth of
property destroyed.

May 4th, 1850. Second great fire. Three blocks of buildings consumed.
Loss, $4,000,000.

June i4th, 1850. Third great fire. Loss, $5,000,000.

September I7th, 1850. Fourth great fire. An extensive area of compara-
tively inexpensive buildings destroyed. Loss, $500,000.

December I4th, 1850. Fire on Sacramento and Montgomery streets. Loss,
$1,000,000. This is not generally classed among the great fires.

May 4th, 1851. Fifth great fire. Eighteen blocks entirely burned, and parts
of six others destroyed. The length of the burned district was three-fourths ot a
mile, and its width half a mile. Loss, $10,000,000 to $12,000,000.

June 22d, 1851. Sixth great fire. Ten blocks and parts of six others des.
troyed. Loss, $3,000.000.

When the Oakland ferry boat, a most magnificent steamer by the way, enters
her pier at the foot of Market street, the traveler will find ample means of convey-
ance to any hotel. If of an economical turn of mind he can board a cable car,
after running the gauntlet of vociferous "cabbies," and for five cents be carried
smoothly and quickly to almost any part of the city ; or, handing his baggage
checks to one of the agents of the United Carriage Company, he can drive to his
destination in considerable more "style," and at a moderate expense, the amount
being determined by the distance traveled — but extortion need not be feared, as
cab fares are regulated by a city ordinance. Once at home in hotel or lodgings —
and San Francisco can furnish either of these of the very best character — the
traveler can map out excursions in the city and its environs that will pleasantly
occupy his time for a fortnight, or which can be crowded into the space of three
or four days.

Everybody has heard of the Cliff House and
the Seal Rocks. These attractions are pretty sure
to command first attention. The Cliff House may

CLIFF HOUSE

AND

SEAL ROCKS

1 and
Characteristic

be reached by three routes These are tersely
described by Mr. Charles Turrell, in his valuable
California notes, as follows : " One of these routes
is the old road that begins at the Mission and winds

over the hills, affording many attractive views of the
city and the bay beyond, the Contra Costa Mount-

ains and Mount Diablo towering in the remote east.

This road descends to the Ocean beach, passing near Merced Lake — Laguna de la
Merced — the largest lake in the county. From the Ocean Side House to the Cliff
House, a distance of some two and a half miles, the road follows the sandy beach.
As this road is quite long, and the latter part very heavy, but few follow it. An-
other route is by Point Lobos avenue, a broad, well macadamized street, com-
mencing at the western end of Geary street and continuing in a straight line to the
Ocean beach. This was for many years the fashionable drive for San Franciscans.
However, since the Golden Gate Park has been opened, and its serpentine drives to
the beach completed, the Point Lobos road has fallen into disuse." This drive is
the one we took, and we found it a most charming way. The Haight street cable
car for Golden Gate Park took our party to the entrance of the Park, and here a
carriage was engaged for the drive to the Cliff House and return ; thus economy
was subserved and nothing of pleasure lost. The Park, though in a state of tran-
sition from wild land to a cultivated Paradise, presented many most charming

TO THE GOLDEN

Tfi

151

views. The abundance of natural flowers, the flora, new to our unaccustomed
eyes, the conservatory abounding in tropical flowers, the shaven lawns, and the
artistically arranged trees and shrubbery, were objects of great interest. From
Inspiration Point we obtained a fine view of the Pacific Ocean and the Golden
(late. The most characteristic objects of interest at the terminus of this drive, are
the Seal Rocks and their curious occupants. The rocks are conical in shape, three
in number, and vary in height from twenty to fifty feet. These rocks are the
haunts of seals, and it is said that there is never a moment when scores of these
curious marine mammals may not be seen basking in the rays of the sun on these
rocks, or struggling among themselves for a place thereon. These seals are pro-

SAN FRANCISCO BAY.

A Beautiful Sheet
of Water and

Land - Locked Harbor

of
Inestimable Value.

tected by law, and there is, therefore, no great danger o/
future travelers visiting Seal Rocks only to be disappointed.

San Francisco Bay. As a harbor it

ranks among the few great seaports of the world.
A land-locked sheet of water, some fifty miles long
and of varying width. It has the advantage of
lying at the central edge of a great area of agricul-
tural land. The shipments through this port are
very heavy, giving constant employment to a large
fleet of steamers and sailing-vessels. It is also the
terminal point of the great transcontinental routes.
If the tourist will take a seat on the dummy of

either the California Street or Jackson Street cable cars and ride as far as Mason
Street, the trip will be amply rewarded. Perhaps the best time to view this mag-
nificent panorama would be in the forenoon. To the left we have the Golden Gate,
the wonderfully beauteous entrance to the still more beautiful bay ; to the right
the sheet of water merges into the distant hills bordering the Santa Clara Valley.
Before us lie, in semi-circular form, Mt. Tamalpais, standing on the northern side

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 153

of the Golden Gate ; Saucelito, San Pablo Hay, the debouchere of California's two
great rivers — the Sacramento and San Joaquin ; then we have the Contra Costa
Mountains and, just beyond, Mount Diablo's graceful peak, while nestling at their
base we distinctly trace the towns of Berkeley, Oakland, Alameda, Haywards,
and Oakland Pier. The steamers of the ferry lines may be viewed ploughing their
rapid way to and from San Francisco. Close to the Pier, Goat Island rises three
hundred and forty feet out of the water. It is the most southerly island in the
bay, save the Mission Rock, now surrounded by warehouses, etc. East of Goat
Island is Alcatraz Island, situated about one mile due east of the GolJen Gate,
whose entrance it commands. It is one-third of a mile long and one-tenth of a
mile wide, irregular in shape and contains about twelve acres, composed mainly of
solid rock. A perfect belt of batteries surround the island, mounting several
very heavy guns on all sides as well as on the top. On the highest point of the
island stands a light-house, whose light can be seen, on a clear night, twelve miles
at sea, outside of the Golden Gate. Next in succession is Angel Island, three
miles north of San Francisco, the largest and most valuable island in the bay. It
contains six hundred acres of excellent land, watered in many places by natural
springs. Three fixed batteries, mounting large, heavy guns, are here, besides
large barracks, accommodating the garrison. On the bay we see craft of every
kind, from the tiny skiff to the monster six-masted ocean steamers. Scows and
steamers may be seen in every direction; the propeller, the paddler are all herein busy
activity. Fringing the water front is a forest of masts, the black hulls from whence
they spring being scarcely visible on account of the long line of the sea-wall and
warehouses that intercept the view. In every dird«tion, lying peacefully at anchor,
are vessels just arrived or about to depart. Here, too, snugly harbored, are the
little yachts of the different clubs — white-winged birds of pleasure.

There are several " squares" in San Francisco, the most noted of which is
Portsmouth Square, with an area of 275 by 204 feet 2 inches. Its history is
important. On July 8th, 1846, Captain Montgomery, of the United States
sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then lying in the bay, at the command of Commodore
Sloat, raised the American flag on the plaza of what was then called " Yerba
Buena " — now San Francisco. A salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth
announced the fact that the United States had taken possession of Northern
California. This square was then named Portsmouth Square, and at the same time
Montgomery street was named in honor of the Captain.

Telegraph Hill is dear to the hearts of old Californians. In 1849 a signal
station was established on this elevation, and the dwellers at the " Bay" were
notified of the approach of vessels from sea by means of a well understood system
of signals. A tract of 275 feet square on the summit of the hill has recently been
purchased by some public spirited citizens and presented to the city for a perpetual
park.

Many tourists take interest in the cemeteries of a city ; to such a brief mention
of those in San Francisco will be interesting. Most of these "cities of the dead " are
best reached via the Geary Street Cable Railway. Laurel Hill Cemetery, near the
foot of a solitary hill, called Lone Mountain, presents the finest examples of
mausoleum architecture in California. Landscape gardening contributes greatly to
the beauty of the scene.

The four principal cemeteries of the city surround Lone Mountain. They are
" Laurel Hill," "Calvary," the Roman Catholic burial ground, and the cemeteries
of the Masons and the Odd-Fellows.

Woodward's Gardens, with an area of about six acres, filled with attractions of

154

OVER THE RANGE

a most varied character, are greatly frequented. Here are museums, conservatories,
aviaries, zoological collections, and a great wealth of floral beauty. Half a day
can be spent here with both pleasure and profit. The admission fee is only twenty-
five cents.

The oldest building in San Francisco and the
one most noted, considered historically, is the Mis-
sion Church, on the corner of Dolores and Sixteenth
Streets. Considerable of the original building re-
mains and many of the interior decorations have
been, to a certain degree, retained in their pristine
state — sufficient to recall the times of the early
fathers. The adobe walls are three feet thick, rest-
ing on a low foundation of rough stone, not laid in mortar ; and the roof is covered
with heavy semi-cylindrical tiles. The floor is of earth, except near the altar, and
the entire structure rude in character and still used for purposes of worship.

THE

MISSION DOLORES.

Oldest Building in

San Francisco.
Founded Oct. 8, 1776.

IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY.

Adjoining it is the Mission Cemetery, not used for purposes of interment since
1858. Most of the inscriptions on the tombs are in Spanish. Clustering around
the mission are a few adobe buildings, red tiled but dilapidated, yet speak to the
thoughtful of five score years and more. It is best reached by taking the Castro
Street cable car of the Market Street Railway.

The theatres are numerous and first class, but English theatres are the same
in kind the world over, and need no special description. Not so, however, with
the Chinese theatre. This is sui generis, entirely novel and of remarkable interest.
There are two of these theatres in San Francisco, and the histrionic peculiarities of
the Celestial drama can here be seen in greater perfection than in any other city in
the world, with the exception of those of China. There is no danger in visiting
these theatres, as they are as well conducted, in their peculiar Chinese way, as any
other place of amusement ; but if there is a party, especially if it contains ladies,
the escort of a guide should be secured. Through his influence and acquaintance
seats can be obtained upon the stage, and a fine view of the wonderful perform-

rO THE GOLDEN GATE. 155

ance obtained. The stage has no scenery. The orchestra occupies the back of
the stage, and the most industrious member of it is the man who manipulates the
big bronze cymbals and the gongs. This fellow punctuates the dialogue with
vigorous blows on his loud resounding instruments, giving to the drama the
characteristic of operatic recitative. The other instruments are the Chinese violin
and fife. The result is a queer kind of barbaric harmony, but to the English car
there is absolutely no melody. The " property " man sits on the stage in full view
of the audience and supplies the actors with such properties as they may need
during the action of the play. The actors are masters of their art. They possess
great facial mobility, and even through their conventional " make up " one can
recognize their histrionic ability. No women are allowed to act in the Chinese
dramas, and all female characters are played by men. These actors are exceedingly
clever, and in voice and action imitate the weaker sex most admirably. A good
female impersonator receives a very large salary from the management. Whenever
it is necessary to personate a death upon the stage, the actor lies quietly for a
moment, and then calmly rises and walks off. A stick with a tuft of horse hair
represents a horse, and a gesture of the leg signifies that the cavorting animal has
been mounted. After all, these conventionalities are not much more crude than
those of the Shakesperian age. The dramas are historical, and some of them are
more extended even than a Wagnerian triology — requiring from three to four weeks
to present a single play.

It would be vain for the writer to attempt to give a circumstantial description
of the attractions of San Francisco. It would require a volume, and the pen of a
Bayard Taylor to do the city justice. As a convenience for strangers, the follow-
ing list of places of amusement and points of general interest is annexed :

NEW BALDWIN THEATRE — Baldwin Hotel. Market and Powell.

THE ALCAZAR — O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Powell.

BUSH STREET THEATRE— Bush street, above Montgomery.

BIJOU THEATRE — Market street, opposite Grant avenue.

TIVOLI OPERA HOUSE — Eddy street, near Baldwin Hotel. Grand operatic
performance every evening. Grand orchestra and chorus. Admission, 25 cents.
Extra to reserve.

PANORAMA BUILDING — Southwest corner Eddy and Mason streets. Open
daily (Sundays included) from 9 a.m. to n p.m. Admission: Adults, 50 cents ;
Children, 25 cents.

PANORAMA BUILDING — Corner Tenth and Market streets. Open daily (Sun-
days included) from 9 a.m. to n p.m. Admission, 50 and 25 cents.

"ORPHEUM" OPERA HOUSE— O'Farrell street, opposite "Alcazar." Ad-
mission, 25 cents. Extra to reserve.

CHINESE THEATRE — Grand Chinese Theatre, 814 Washington street. Per-
formances every evening by full Chinese Company. Admission, 50 cents. Private
Boxes, $3.00.

GOLDEN GATE PARK — Contains over 1,000 acres ; extends from Baker street
to the Pacific Ocean, 3^ miles. Reached by Market Street Cable Railway via
Haight, Hayes, or McAllister streets, from ferries ; or, Geary Street Cable Road,
from corner of Kearney and Geary streets; and via Powell or California Street Cable
Roads. Fare, 5 cents.

WOODWARD'S GARDENS— Reached by Valencia Street Division of Market
Street Cable Railway. An extensive and beautiful park, filled with trees, flowers,
and rare plants, menagerie, botanical garden, aquarium, and museum of curiosities.
Performances on Saturdays and Sundays. Admission, 25 cents. Children, 10 cents.

GLIMPSE OF CELESTIAL LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 157

CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS— Point Lobos, 6 miles from City Hall. A
magnificent drive over a perfect road leading through Golden Gate Park ; or, can
be reached by Market Street Cable Railroad, Haight Street Division, connecting
at terminus with trains of Park & Ocean Railroad direct to Ocean Beach, near
Cliff House. Distance from Oakland Ferry, about 8 miles ; time, 55 minutes ;
fare, 10 cents. Also reached by Powell Street Cable Railroad and Ferries, and
Cliff House Railroad.

SUTRO HEIGHTS— The private garden of Adolph Sutro, made beautiful
beyond description by the gardener and artist, is just back of the Cliff House, but
higher up. Open daily from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.

PRESIDIO RESERVATION — Fronts on the Golden Gate for about two miles.
It has several beautiful drives, is owned by the Government, and its barracks have
the largest military force on the Pacific Coast. Drive out California Street or take
California Street, Jackson Street or Union Street cable cars.

POSTOFFICE — Corner of Washington and Battery Streets. General delivery
is open from 7:30 a. m. to 6 p. m. every day, Sundays excepted ; Sundays, from I
to 2 p. m. Branch postoffice, station "A," Polk and Austin streets ; ' B," Eighth
and Mission Streets ; " C," Twentieth and Mission Streets ; " D," foot of Market
Street, at ferries.

MARKETS for fruit, flowers, fish, game and other produce : California
Market, California Street, below Kearney ; Centre Market, Sutler and Grant
Avenues. Visit early in morning. Semi-tropical fruits and flowers all the year
round.

SAN FRANCISCO STOCK EXCHANGE — Pine street, between Montgomery and
Sansome.

MERCHANTS EXCHANGE — California street, between Montgomery and San-
some.

UNITED STATES MINT — Fifth and Mission streets. Visitors admitted from
9 a.m. to 12 noon, except Saturday and Sunday.

CALIFORNIA STATE MINING BUREAU — New Pioneer Building, Fourth street.
This institution has the largest and most valuable, collection of ores, minerals,
fossils, and Indian relics, in the United States.

MISSION DOLORES — Founded 1776 ; i6th and Dolores streets. Reached by
Valencia Street Division of Market Street Cable Railway.

ALCATRAZ ISLAND AND ANGEL ISLAND — Permission to visit these may be
secured at department headquarters, Phelan Building, Market St., except Sundays.
Steamer General McDowell visits them daily.

EASTERN RAILWAY LINES — The offices of all agents of eastern railroads,
represented in San Francisco, are on Montgomery, Market and New Montgomery
streets ; in close proximity to Palace, Grand and Occidental Hotels.

BANKS — All the leading banks are in block bounded bv Montgomery, San-
some, California and Pine streets.

EXPRESS OFFICES — Wells, Fargo & Co., corner Mission and New Montgomery
streets, opposite Palace Hotel.

STREET CAR FARES — The fare on all street car lines, both horse and cable,
is 5 cents.

HACK FARE — One person, not more than one mile $i 50

Two or more persons 2 50

Four or less, by the hour — first hour 300

Each subsequent hour 2 oo

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

159

OAKLAND.

Beautiful Residence
City.

Population, 55,OOO.

Distance from
San Francisco, 8 Miles.

Elevation, 13 Feet.

CABS — One person, not more than one mile 50

Two or more persons, by hour — first hour I 50

Each subsequent hour-. I oo

Oakland. It is to be supposed that the

tourist in his stay in San Francisco has not neglected
to visit this garden city. The town is beautifully
situated on the east shore of the bay, the land slop-
ing gradually down to the waters from the Contra
Costa Mountains, which rise back of the city at a dis-
tance of a few miles. The foot hills are crowned
with the suburban villas of wealthy merchants of
Oakland and San Francisco, and from their veran-
dahs can be obtained a most extensive and pleasing
view of the bay, San Francisco and the Ocean
beyond. Oakland is one of the most beautiful resi-
dence cities in the world, and in point of sylvan beauty has few if any rivals. The
houses are tastefully built, many of them of the greatest elegance, surrounded by
extensive and well' kept grounds, embowered in trees and glowing with a lavish
wealth of roses. It must not be supposed, however, that Oakland is not also a
business town. On the contrary, it possesses large mercantile and manufacturing
establishments. Electric lights illuminate the wide and well paved streets ; cable
and horse car lines are numerous and none of the modern improvements lacking.
Schools and churches abound. Oakland is a city of colleges, and numbers among
these institutions of higher education the following : The State University
School, the Oakland Military School, the Convent of Our Lady of the Sacred
Heart, the Oakland Female Seminary, the Female College of the Pacific, and the
University of California, at Berkley, four miles distant. Among the large manu
facturing establishments may be mentioned the extensive machine shops of the
Southern Pacific Company, the Judson Manufacturing Company, the Pacific Iron
and Nail Company, besides cotton mills, jute mills, flour mills, and innumerable
other institutions, employing a large amount of capital and thousands of men,
women and children. One can reach San Francisco from Oakland every fifteen
minutes by train and ferry. Oakland is a most charming place, and is the home of
an enterprising, hospitable, and intelligent class of people.

Southward Bound. Having spent a most delightful season in San
Francisco, the tourist's face is turned southward, and the journey to Los Angeles
and San Diego begins. Taking the Oakland ferry, at the foot of Market street,
one is borne pleasantly over the waters of the bay and lands at Oakland pier,
where he takes the Southern Pacific train for Los Angeles.

Doubling1 on our Track. From Oakland to Port Costa we follow the
same line as that upon which we entered San Francisco, therefore, it is not neces-
sary to make mention of the intervening stations. Passing Port Costa, the line
has the Sacramento River on its left, and rolling hills on its right. Beyond the
river can be seen the town of Benicia nestling among the coves of the Suscal Hills.
Martinez. A pleasant village among the hills. Fruit trees and vines
abound, and the inhabitants of the towns and surrounding country are mainly
engaged in horticulture. Martinez is the county seat of Contra Costa County,
and is a most quiet and charming place of residence. Citrus fruit, grapes of all
varieties, and deciduous fruits flourish without irrigation, and the climate is so
mild that semi tropical plants grow out of doors without any special protection.
(Population, 1,500. Distance from San Francisco, 35 miles. Elevation, 10 feet.)

ON WHEELS, THROUGH GOLDEN GATE PARK.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 161

Avon, Bay Point and Cornwall are small intermediate stations.

Coal Mines. About six miles south of Cornwall are large coal mines, the
tramways for the conveying of the product of these mines pass over our track, and
deliver the coal at Pittsburgh Landing on the river, whence it is carried by water to
destination. From Martinez to Antioch the road passes through a hill country on our
right, with the river to the left. Many deep cuts occur, and numerous small tribu-
taries flow down the gulches, into the river. Up these gulches we catch
glimpses of neat farm houses, surrounded by well cultivated fields and orchards.
Mount Diablo rises to the south, and reaches an elevation of 3,896 feet.
Among the foot hills of this mountain are the mining towns of Stewartville,
Empire, Nortonville and Somerville. At Cornwall to our left lies Suisun Bay,
and here the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers have their junction.

Antioch. A shipping point for coal. The town itself is a mile north on
the banks of the San Joaquin River. From this point also large quantities of vege-
tables, strawberries, fruit, etc., are shipped to San Francisco. (Population, 700.
Distance from San Francisco, 55 miles. Elevation, 46 feet.)

BeiltWOOll. Wheat fields begin to appear here, dotted with live oaks.
The town is small and supported by agricultural industries, It is situated on the
Marsh Grant of 13,000 acres, on which much stock is fed.

Byron. The most attractive thing about
this station, to the invalid and the tourist, is, its

BYRON HOT SPRINGS.

Bathing:
and

near proximity to the Byron Hot Springs, situated
two miles to the south. The country round about
is famous for its production of wheat, alfalfa, fruit

and grapes. This being a portion of the great wheat
Health Resort.

belt. The hot springs have attracted much atten-

tion, and a large hotel and bath houses have recently
been erected The springs are varied in their characteristics, being both hot
and cold, and possessing in turn the constituents of sulphur, iron, soda and mag-
nesia. There are mud baths, and in fact all varieties of bathing. The temperature
of some of the springs is as high as 130° Fahrenheit.

Bethany. Distance from San Francisco, 76 miles.

Tracy. The junction of the old Western Pacific route from San Francisco
to Sacramento via Livermore Pass with our line to the south. Tracy is surrounded
by broad wheat fields, which extend to the northward beyond the reach of vision.
(Population, 200. Distance from San Francisco, 71 miles. Elevation, 64 feet)

Banta. Small station three miles from Tracy, after passing which we cross
the San Joaquin River on a very long draw bridge. (Population, 150. Distance
from San Francisco, 74 miles. Elevation, 30 feet.)

Latlirop. Junction of the old Western Pacific and the Sunset Route. This
is a regular meal station and here the railroad company have erected a large hotel,
in which are also their offices. Lathrop is in the heart of the great San Joaquin
wheat belt. (Population, 600. Distance from San Francisco, 83 miles. Elevation,
26 feet.)

The San Joaquin Valley. After crossing the San Joaquin River and
turning to the right, our course is up the famous San Joaquin Valley — the great
granary of California. Here are five million acres of the best wheat land in the
world. A valley two hundred miles long by thirty miles broad, which when
vivified by the magic touch of irrigation, produces not only wheat but also almost
every thing that can be raised in tropical or temperate zones — wheat, corn, oats,
flax, apples, oranges, lemons, figs, nuts, olives — the list is too extended for

162 OVER THE RANGE

recapitulation. Properly conserved there is water enough to irrigate the whole
valley, and in many places the natural supply of water has been supplemented by
that flowing from artesian wells. After passing Lathrop, we rattle through a
number of small stations, all of them with large shipping warehouses, speaking
eloquently of the generous output of the soil.

Passing through Morano, Ripon, and Salida, small stations, we reach
Modesto. County seat of Stanislaus County, and a prosperous and pretty
town, surrounded by an industrious agricultural people. (Population, 2,500.
Distance from San Francisco, 114 miles. Elevation, 91 feet.)

Between Modesto and Merced are the unimportant stations of Ceres, Turlochs,
Livingston, and Atwater.

Merced. A well-built town, the county seat of Merced County. Possessed
of good public buildings, fine private residences, and surrounded by an exceedingly
rich agricultural country, and destined to be a great manufacturing center, Merced
has prospered and will continue to prosper. The county has a population of
75,000, nearly all engaged in agricultural pursuits. (Population, 3,000. Distance
from San Francisco, 152 miles. Elevation, 171 feet.)

Athlone. Before Athlone is reached we cross the Mariposa River, and
after it is passed the Conchilla River. Wheat fields are on every hand. Irrigating
ditches abound. Vineyards are frequently to be seen. And Athlone, a quiet little
village, sits in the midst of fertile fields. (Population, 50. Distance from San
Francisco, 162 miles. Elevation, 210 feet.)

-^^^^^^^_^^^^__^_ This station is situated at the junction with the

main line of the Yosemite extension of the Southern
Pacific Railroad, which extends to Raymond, a dis-
tance of twenty-one miles to the eastward. From
Berenda a good view of the Sierra Nevada Moun-
to the tains can be had. Among the highest peaks in view

are those of Mount Lyell, Mount Tyndal, Mount
World's Famous Goddard and Mount Whitney. These mountains,

which exceed 14,000 feet in altitude, impress one
Yosemite Valley.

deeply with their vast proportions, more especially

BERENDA.

Junction Point

Big Trees, etc.

because we are so near the sea level, being at an
elevation of less than three hundred feet. Berenda
has an agricultural and grazing country directly
tributary to it. (Population, 85. Distance from San Francisco, 178 miles. Eleva-
tion, 256 feet.)

Madera. This is a leading shipping point for lumber, which is delivered
to this point from the foot-hills by means of a flume fifty three miles in length. The
great work of constructing this flume was completed in 1876, which has been in
service ever since. The amount of lumber delivered in this way during the last ten
years is something enormous, as may readily be gathered from the fact that last
year's delivery amounted to over twenty-two million feet. (Population, 700.
Distance from San Francisco, 185 miles. Elevation, 278 feet.)

Fresno. Between Madera and Fresno there is some interesting country.
Just after leaving Madera we cross the Fresno River, beyond Sycamore the
San Joaquin River, and at Borden, Cottonvvood Creek. The sand dunes will
attract your attention beyond Sycamore — queer little hills of sand fifteen to twenty-
five feet in diameter and three to six feet high. Fresno is the county-seat of
Fresno County, and is a most thriving and prosperous city. It has electric
lights telephones street railroads, water works, in short, all the modern im-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

163

provements. Redwood and pine is the material mostly in use for building pur-
poses, and the town possesses many elegant public and private edifices. A
great variety of industries are tributary to the town. Fresno County has about
30,000 acres planted to grapes, and shipped last year over five million pounds of
raisins. This is but a small part of the product of the county. The shipments of
various farm products reached the high figure of one hundred and sixty million
pounds of freight. There is an abundant supply of water for irrigation, being

THE PETRIFIED FOREST

brought from the mountains by means of canals having an aggregate length of
eleven hundred miles 'and costing two million dollars. The capacity of these
canals for irrigation covers a space of over seven hundred thousand acres, thus
making Fresno County one of the richest agricultural regions in the world. Lom-
bardy or the Nile Valley are not richer in possibilities. Many colonies have
formed settlements in the vicinity of Fresno. These enterprises, through intelli-
gent and united industry, have proved very successful. With a salubrious climate,

164 OVER THE RANGE

fine scenery, fertile land and an industrious people, Fresno has every reason to
anticipate a continuance of her phenomenal success. (Population, 12,000. Dis-
tance from San Francisco, 206 miles. Elevation, 293 feet.)

Selllia. Sunounded by a wheat growing country and supplied with good
flouring mills, this town is in a flourishing condition. A great deal of wheat is
shipped from this station — twenty million pounds last year. The town has most
all the modern improvements. (Population, 2,200. Distance from San Francisco,
221 miles. Elevation, 311 feet.)

Kingsburg". This enterprising little town owes its prosperity to the fact
that it is situated in the famous wheat belt. Here are to be seen big warehouses
for storing wheat, large quantities of which are shipped from this station annually.
The cultivation of fruit is beginning to attract attention of the people. Irriga-
tion is the salvation of this country, and the water is secured, not only through
ditches, but also by means of windmills from wells varying in depth from fifteen
to fifty feet. Soon after leaving the town, we cross King's River on a trestle
bridge, the approach to which is made over a long, high embankment. (Popula-
tion, 450. Distance from San Francisco, 227 miles. Elevation, 300 feet.)

King's River, a large, clear body of water, rises in the Sierras to the
northeast, and flows southwesterly in a broad and tortuou? channel, irrigating a
large scope of territory. King's River is the boundary line between Fresno and
Tulare Counties.

Traver. This is a new town, showing evidence of prosperity and thrift,
possesses a flouring mill, machine shops planing mills and other business enter-
prises of commercial importance. (Population, 600. Distance from San Francisco,
232 miles. Elevation, 291 feet.)

Goshen. The junction of the Goshen Division, which extends a distance
of sixty miles to Alcalde. (Population, 75. Distance from San Francisco, 240
miles. Elevation, 286 feet.)

The Goshen Division. There are a number of small towns on this
branch, as follows: Hanford, Armona, Grandeville, Lemore, Huron and Alcalde.
The land through which the road passes is very fertile, and prices for it range
from one hundred and fifty to three hundred dollars per acre.

Visalia. This town is the county-seat of Tulare County, and is situated
seven miles to the eastward of Goshen, being connected with that station by means
of a motor road. The Kaweah River flows through Visalia and aids in irrigating
this most fertile region. (Population 3,000. Distance from San Francisco, 247
miles. Elevation, 290 feet.)

Resources of Tulare County. The resources of this county are
most varied, the plains and the mountains meeting here; hence, the farming and
fruit-raising of the one are supplemented by the mining, lumber industries and
stock-raising of the other. There are about two million and a half acres of territory
in the mountains, about eight hundred thousand acres among the foot-hills, eleven
hundred thousand acres of valley and two hundred thousand acres in Tulare Lake
and its surrounding " tule" lands. The mountains are covered with timber, and
mines of gold, iron, copper and zinc are worked. The foot hills produce almost
every variety of deciduous and citrus fruits, together with grapes — both wine and
raisin. Lands can be bought here at prices ranging from twenty-five to three
hundred dollars an acre.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

165

TU LARE.

Commercial

ami

Agricultural Centre.
Population,

4,OOO.

Distance from San

Francisco, 251 miles.

Elevation, 282 feet.

Ten miles beyond Goshen we come to Tulare,
a thriving town of recent growth, with railroad
round-house, shops and good station buildings,
Tulare being the end of a division. This is a
large shipping point, not only via the railroad, but
by means of wagons to interior points.

Irrigation in the Artesian Belt. The
question of irrigation in California has been one
of much vexation and exceedingly difficult of solu-
tion. The supply of water has been so very limited
that millions of acres of land, as fertile as any in
the world if irrigated, and absolutely worthless
without water, have lain fallow for years. Fortu-
nately for California, it has been discovered that this lack of water can be supplied
in many ins ances through the agency of artesian wells. In certain sections
of the country these resources have been developed, and the result has been the
establishment of what are popularly known as "artesian belts." One of these
zones extends from Calienta to Stockton, the greatest development being in
Merced, Fresno. Tulare and Kern Counties, where over seven hundred flowing
wells have been established. These wells are from 250 to 700 feet in depth,
and an average well will irrigate about 150 acres of land. The capacity of each
well can be largely increased by means of storage reservoirs. After leaving
Tulare the derricks of artesian well-borers can be seen on each side of the
railroad in great numbers.

Tipton is a small station of no very great importance, except from the
fact that it is the shipping point for sheep, which are raised in great numbers in
the surrounding country. Seven miles to the west lies Tulare Lake, which is quite
a large body of water, being thirty miles long by twenty-five miles wide, and
abounding in fish and water fowl. Tipton is surrounded by a good agricultural
country, and enjoys its full measure of prosperity. (Population 300. Distance
from San Francisco, 262 miles. Elevation, 267 feet.)

Beyond Tipton are to be seen great numbers of windmills, used particular for
the work of irrigation. Immense groves of eucalyptus, or blue gum trees can be
seen from the train. Pixley, Alila, Delano, Poso and Lerdo are small stations of
minor importance. We cross the Kern River between Lerdo and Bakersfield.

Bakersfield. is the county-seat of Kern County, situated at the junction
of the two forks of Kern River. The town has the usual complement of public
and private buildings. It is surrounded by an exceedingly fertile country. Four-
teen miles southwest is Kern Lake, seven miles long by four wide, while six miles
farther is Buena Vista Lake, a somewhat larger body of water. Irrigation has
been brought to great perfection in this county, there being seven hundred miles of
irrigating canals within its limits, the largest having a width of one hundred feet
and a length of forty miles. Twenty-five miles southwest of Bakersfield are the
Buena Vista Oil Works. This oil region, eight miles long by three wide, only
needs development to become an exceedingly valuable property. Bakersfield has,
as may be seen by the above, a most productive country surrounding it. (Popula-
tion, 2,500. Distance from San Francisco, 314 miles. Elevation, 415 feet.)

Caliente. This station is at the entrance to the famous Tehachapi Pass,
and is located in the embrasure of a deep and narrow canon, up which the train
takes its difficult way. This is a shipping point for freight from interior points,
delivered to the road by wagons. It is also quite a stage station, stages leaving

TO THE GOLDEN GA TE. 167

Caliente for Basin, Havilah, Hot Springs, Weldon and Kernville. (Population. 50.

Distance from San Francisco, 336 miles. Elevation, 1,290 feet.)

______ _____^_— ^_^__ 1 ne twenty-four miles of journey up and down

The Famous Loop, the SieiTa Nevadas- at the Point where the railroad

T r u A n u A D i DACC makes the passage of this range dividing the broad

I t H A l» H A l.l lAoo. .. r i o T • i i j e »/r •

valley of the San Joaquin and the desert of Mojave,
is a most remarkable experience, and brings before
our eyes the wonderful triumph of railway engineer-
ing skill. It is alleged that three civil engineers of
great reputation first undertook to survey a passage

3,O34 feet.

Altitude Gained,
78 feet.

Distance from San
Francisco, 353 miles.

Length of Loop,
:*,7<J5 feet.

Altitude of Tunnel.
•4,956 feet.

through these peaks and crags, and, after repeated
Altitude of Crossing,

attempts, declared the route impassible. A boy
of twenty took up the work where his elders had
forsaken it. and this miraculous railway path over
and through the mountains is the result. Con-
cerning this famous pass, Mr. E. McD. Johnstone writes graphically as follows :
"As the Sierra Nevada and Coast Ranges in the north culminate in the great
peak of Shasta (41° 24'), so in the neighborhood of Tehachapi Pass (35°; ihese two
great chains blend their distinguishing features of fern slope and icy crag, and
are lost in an inextricable mass of jumbled up peaks of every conceivable form and
variety. Although nature has reared no such colossal masterpiece as Shasta in the
welding of her great rock bands in the South, she has managed to throw up her
earth-works in a manner so impregnable as to seemingly defy the art of man to
penetrate. The physical features of this Tehachapi country (the lowest pass
being 4,000 feet altitude) seemed to, and did for a time, baffle the shrewdest
engineers, but. finally, the track, by doubling back upon, and crossing itself, by
climbing, squirming and curving, resulted in a success and gave us one of the
most famous and dextrous pieces of railroad engineering in the world."

Tehachapi Summit. The station at the summit of the pass is at an
elevation of 3,964 feet, and is the highest point on this extension of the line.
Sheep feed on the grass, which is abundant in the valleys and gulches whicti sur-
round the station.

Descending1 to the Desert. For several miles the train rolls along
on a level plateau on the summit of this range before the descent to the Mojave
Desert is made. A small salt lake is passed, where abundance of the chloride of
sodium, that important article of commerce, can be shoveled up from the bed of
the lake, it being entirely exposed during the summer by the evaporation of its
waters.

Cameron is a small station passed about midway between the summit and
Mojave, at the base of the range

Mojave is on the edge of the desert of the same name, and the water used
is brought in pipes from Cameron, a distance of ten miles. Here begins the
Los Angeles Division of the railroad, and here also ends the Tulare Division.
This place is the junction of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad with the Southern
Pacific. (Population 150. Distance from San Francisco, 382 miles. E evation,
275 1 feet.)

The Mojave Desert. A desert isn't as a general rule much of an ob-
ject of interest to travelers, especially to those who have made the transcontinental
journey and experienced the monotony of the deserts of Utah and Nevada. How-
ever we must say this, that we found many things to interest us while traversing the
famed sand wastes of Mojave. In the first place there were the giant Cacti or

168 OVER THE RANGE

Yucca Palm, a sight novel to our eyes, and peculiar in and of itself. This cactus
grows to the size of a tree, reaching an average height of twenty five feet, and
attaining very often that of fifty feet. Its diameter is often that of two feet, and
sometimes even greater ; with its spreading club-like branches, its trailing bark and
peculiar form, the Yucca Palm is indeed an interesting feature in the landscape.
Another attraction is the peculiar form of the buttes, which rise from the desert
sands on every side. Varying in height from two to five hundred feet, grooved
and channeled by the elements, they give variety and interest to the landscape.
One must not neglect to mention the mirage as a third element of variety. We do
not remember ever to have seen more complete or deceptive mirage effects than
those of the Mojave Desert.

Rosamond, Lancaster, Acton are desert stations of small interest. The
Solidad Mountains tower to our right as Rosamond is passed, and we later on
make our way through this range by means of what is known as the Solidad Pass,
reaching an altitude of 3,211 feet.

Newliall. This station is not very large, but boasts a large hotel, capable
of entertaining one hundred and fifty guests From here may be plainly seen the
San Fernando Mountains, exceedingly perpendicular, and rising to an altitude of
three thousand feet. These mountains could not be passed until a tunnel six
thousand nine hundred and sixty-seven feet long had been made.

In this vicinity are oil refineries producing about five thousand barrels of oil
per day. The oil fields are but a short distance from Newhall.

Sail Fernando Tunnel. From Newhall we ascend the grade through
cuts until the tunnel is reached. The grade is one hundred and sixteen feet to the
mile, and as we approach from the north in the tunnel, it is thirty-seven feet per
mile, the grade on the south from the exit is one hundred and six feet, while the
elevation of the tunnel is one thousand four hundred and sixty nine feet.

San Fernando. The valley of San Fernando bursts on our vision as we
emerge from the tunnel, a land of orange groves and olive trees, the very opposite
in character from the arid waste we have just left behind us. The town of San
Fernando is quite a place, and growing daily in population.

Through cultivated fields, past suburban residences we roll, pausing for a
moment at Burbank, only eleven miles from Los Angeles. Beyond this place we
journey through villages de facto, de jure or in futuro. There are plenty of lot
stakes, and the suburbs of Los Angeles will certainly be wide spread, if they ever
cover the ground now laid out.

The valley of the San Joaquin has been passed,
the heights of Tehachapi have been scaled, the
desert of Mojave has been crossed and we are here
at last! From our cheery heights as we approach
the town we gaze on a scene of entrancing beauty.
Mountain-girdled, garden dotted city, lying on the
slope of the Sierras, and watered by streams from
the heights above, one hardly knows whether to call
it a city of gardens and groves, or an immense grove

LOS ANGELES.

The

Metropolis* of Southern
California.

A City of Tropical
Magnificence.

and garden sprinkled with palaces and delightful
homes. Health and prosperity seem to have made themselves the presiding Deities
of the place. We gratefully decide that we have arrived at a point where it were
well to let the train, like the busy world it typifies, pass on and away, while we rest in
this paradise— a home indeed fit for the angels— and while we bask in its sunshine,
gaze at its mountain peaks, catch glimpses of the ocean, breathe the fragrance of

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 109

its roses and geraniums or listen to its mocking birds and nightingales, we unite
many a time and oft in thanks to the kindly fate which led our steps to Southern
California and the City of the Angels. There is no city whose growth can be
compared to Los Angeles — in fact, no city west of the Rocky Mountains can boast
ot such rapid improvements. Thousands have come to Southern California simply
to pay a visit, but soon become charmed with its wonderful climate and beautiful
surroundings, so much so that they conclude to remain permanently in this land of
sunshine and flowers. A great deal has been written of this section, but the half
has never been told. With the greatest climate in the universe, the richest and
most inexhaustible soil, the vast amount of valuable land in and around Los
Angeles, it is no wonder that her present condition is so prosperous. The beauti-
ful avenues extending away to the foothills on the east and to the ocean on the
south, the orange groves within her corporate '.imj.ts, the magnificent public and
private buildings all tend to make the Angel City a place of wonder. Mam street,
the principal street in town, is the dividing lin* for east and west, First street
the division for north and south. The wholesale houses are scattered along Los
Angeles, Commercial, Aliso and Requena street?, while the large retail establish-
ments are to be found on Spring street, which is to Los Angeles what State
street and Wabash avenue are to Chicago. The entire city south of First
street is paved with concrete pavement north of First *>eing laid with Belgian
blocks. There are many beautiful parks within the city Jimit?, and the ocean can
be reached in a trifle over an hour's drive.

It may be stated that the much abused word "climate" ha? doubtless been a
powerful factor in producing grand results. Furthermore, the fact that hundreds
of those who were deemed hopeless invalids on their arrival here are to day enter-
prising, energetic and successful capitalists, merchants, manufacturers, formers and
orchardists, attesting the effects of this sun-kissed land and health-renewing climate
on the human system ; and so long as there are any sufferers from the blizzards,
cyclones and other life destroying elements east of the Rocky Mountains, jus* so
long will Southern California, and Los Angeles in particular, continue to receive
thousands annually of the best citizens of the republic, until it becomes the most
densely populated portion of the United States.

Los Angeles is reached by the Southern Pacific R. R. in twenty two hour?
from San Francisco — distance, 482 miles— or by steamer. It is a most beautiful
city, of 60.000 people, is growing rapidly, and is a commercial point of much
importance, as well as the center of an agricultural paradise, it being the principal
city between San Francisco and Kansas City on the new transcontinental line
formed by the connection at Deming or El Paso. It is also the largest city
between San Francisco and San Antonio, Texas, by the great "Sunset Route,"
now open to the Gulf of Mexico. The city has many elegant buildings, wide,
clean streets, with horse, cable, and electric railways. A day's ride over the
lovely country surrounding Los Angeles, through miles of long, straight avenues
of orange trees and thousands of acres of grapes, seeing every kind of semi-
tropic fruit growing side by side with the more hardy fruits, both being in the
greatest profusion and of the finest quality, will convince the traveler from almost
any part of the earth that here is surely the paradise of America, if not of the world.

No city in the United States has improved so rapidly within the past two years
as Los Angeles. Since 1887 opened, nearly every one of the principal business
streets have been paved with Belgian blocks, and the main residence thoroughfares
with concrete, thus making a drive equal to any avenue in the Union There are no
improvements which have been of more benefit to Los Angeles than that of pave-

IN THE SEMI -TROPIC ZONE. fOS ANGELES.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 17i

ment. The immense amount of daily traffic necessitated this movement, and
before 1890 there will scarcely be a block within the corporate limits which will
not be in proper condition. Curbing has also received its share of attention, while
the cement sidewalk is becoming universal. The city has an almost perfect sewer-
age system, which requires an outlay of nearly $750,000. Since January I, 1887,
the Sixth Street Park, bounded by Fifth Sixth, Olive and Hill streets, has been
thrown open to the public, and is in keeping with the many fine residences that
surround it. The Second Street Park, situated near the terminus of the cable
line of railroad, is a very inviting place, and receives its share of Eastern visitors
when viewing the many improvements around Los Angeles.

Los Angeles is essentially a land of schools. The public, high and normal
schools are supported by State taxation, and their doors are open to all. Kesides,
there are numerous universities, colleges and academies. The majority of children,
after obtaining an education in the public schools, by force of circumstances are
compelled to take up the battle of life for themselves ; but to those who thirst for
deeper draughts at the fountains of knowledge, the higher schools await them.

The University of Southern California is under the auspices of the Methodist
Episcopal. Church, and was established by Rev. O. S. Frambes in 1876. In 1880
it was incorporated under the State laws, and was the recipient of a large tract of
land in the southwestern corner.

Los Angeles to Santa Barbara. There are two routes by which
Santa Barbara may be reached from Los Angeles. One by water, via San Pedro,
and the other by rail, via Saugus. A pleasant way for one with time at his disposal
is by water. In order to make this trip the tourist takes the train of the San Pedro
Division of the Southern Pacific Company at Los Angeles, and is soon rolling rapidly
along to the southward through orange groves and vineyards, which abound along
the entire course, but are especially noteworthy in the suburbs of Los Angeles.

Florence. This pretty town, embowered in an abundance of shrubs and
fruit trees, is surrounded by well cultivated and fertile fields. Here the line
branches, the San Diego Division extending to the left. (Population, 200. Dis-
tance from Los Angeles, 5 miles. Elevation, 151 feet.)

CoinptOll. This is the largest town on the division between Los Angeles
and San Pedro. It is in the heart of an extremely well cultivated and productive
fruit belt. Grapes, citrus fruits and berries grow in great abundance. The
yield is extraordinary and is especially true as to small fruits, such as black-
berries, strawberries, raspberries, etc. (Population, 800 Distance from Los
Angeles, 10 miles. Elevation, 76 feet. )

Ten miles beyond Compton evidences of our near approach to the grand old
ocean begin to appear. Salt marshes begin to make their appearance and the
fertile soil gives place to stretches of shifting sands.

WilSOIl's College. This is a Protestant institution of learning, eighteen
miles distant from Los Angeles, situated on the site of the old Headquarters of the
United States Military Department for Southern California and Arizona, which
was abandoned about twenty years ago and sold to private parties. About a mile
beyond the college, the junction for Long Beach is passed and San Pedro the rail-
road terminus is soon reached.

San Pedro. This is one of the largest and best harbors between San
Francisco and San Diego. It has over a mile of docks, with between eighteen
and twenty feet of water at low tide. Ships receive and unload freight to and
from the railroad cars direct, though from some ships of great tonnage the freight
is taken by means of lighters The government has improved the harbor to a great

172 OVER THE RANGE

extent and the results have been fully commensurate with the expense incurred.
The commerce of San Pedro is quite extensive, sometimes as many as twenty
ships can be seen riding at anchor, or tied up to the wharf busily engaged in
loading or unloading freight. Great quantities of lumber are shipped to San
Pedro from points on the coast as far as two hundred miles north of San Francisco
and all nations are represented during the year by ships in this harbor hailing from
every part of the world. Coal comes here from the upper coast and from England
and in the case of English vessels a cargo of grain is taken back. The history of
San Pedro dates back to the earliest settlement of California, but as a port of any
importance its growth began less than ten years ago. Before that time it was merely
an open roadstead and lighters carried all freight to and from Willmington.

Point Fermin. This point is marked by a lighthouse of the first class
and is one of the most conspicuous headlands on the western coast. It lies to the
west of San Pedro and is reached by stage road around the beach, a distance of six
miles, or by boat directly across the cove.

Santa Catalina Island. This mountainous island looms up to the
southwest at a distance of twenty miles to sea. The island has become a favorite
resort for excursionists and sportsmen. The trip to Catalina Island and return from
San Pedro can be made for $2.00 and is well worth the visit.

San Clemeth Island is still further to seaward, faintly outlined against
the sky at a distance of fifty miles. On this island great flocks of sheep and
goats ?re allowed to range at will.

San Pedro to Santa Barbara. The tourist takes one of the steam-
ers which ply regularly between San Francisco and San Diego and after a most
enjoyable and interesting trip, finds himself at Santa Barbara, "The Peerless."
__^^^^^_____^^^^__ Since its founding in 1786 the city of Santa

Barbara has not enjoyed a more prosperous year than
that just past. In the short space of two years,
from January, 1887, to January, 1889, a number of
events crowded together have practically changed
the entire aspect of the city. At the beginning of
the period, Santa Barbara was a quiet country town
of great possibilities, it is true, but of very limited
actual importance. It was shut off from the rest of
the world, and quite contented that it should be. No changes of great moment
had taken place in the town for years, and there was but little prospect that any
were very soon to be realized. The marvelous advance which was being achieved
by the rest of the southern part of the State showed but little signs of appearing
here. People came and visited and went away, but the idea of Santa Barbara as a
good place for business undertakings or for investment rarely entered their heads.
Now after a brief space of time, during which the natural forces of American
enterprise and the genuine merit of its situation have been allowed full play, the
city of Santa Barbara finds itself a different being. Many of the old conditions
still remain, some of the changes are far from complete; but those who see beneath
the surface appreciate that there has suddenly come into being a new Santa Barbara
with a gratifying present and a splendid future. The great event in its history,
so important that it overshadows all the others, was the arrival of the railroad.
Since the Southern Pacific first pushed its way into this part of the State, it has
been merely a question of time when it would enter this quiet valley. On the igth
of August, 1887, the event took place, and the first train of passenger cars entered
the city, bringing hosts of visitors from all parts of the State. A jubilee celebra-

SANTA BARBARA,
"THE PEERLESS."
An Ideal Home under

Sub-Tropical Skies.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 173

tion hailed the advent of the power that was to bring progress and improvement to
Santa Barbara. The company immediately set about building a suitable passenger
station, and before the year was ended the railway connection had become in every
sense an accomplished fact. After making its way into the city, the road proceeded
along the coast, passed Goleta, and by the end of the year trains were running to
Elwood, twelve miles farther north. The locality where the road enters the city,
was formerly a sandy desert and is now alive with shops, freight buildings and
cottage-:. Exact statements with regard to passenger and freight traffic are not
obtainable ; but the confidence which this corporation has in its Santa Barbara
connection is evinced by its purchase of more than three-quarters of a million dol-
lars worth of property in and around this city. That the advent of the Southern
Pacific Company to Santa Barbara has given a new impetus to trade and rapid ad-
vancement, none will deny.

Santa Barbara county extends along the coast of California seventy miles, and
is thirty five miles in width, and has a million and a half of acres of land. It con-
tains a population of about 30,000 and has made a gain of seventy-three per cent,
during the past six years. The city is beautifully laid out with newly macadamized
streets. It has electric lights, lines of street cars, telephone facilities, and every-
thing metropolitan. It is justly termed " The Newport of the Pacific " with a
climate unequalled for the prolongation of life, beauty and health.
tk Where the coast line trending eastward,

Bending eastward, inward, southward

Forms a bay of wondrous beauty,

In a quiet, peaceful valley

Lies a peaceful, quiet hamlet —

Santa Barbara the peerless:

Peerless in her genial climate,

In her skies so clear and cloudless ;

Peerless in her sheen of sunshine,

Peerless, having sea and mountains.

Shadowy canons, mystic islands.

Hill and vaJley, grove and meadow."

Malarious diseases are unknown. In fact, there are no endemic or epidemic
diseases whatever. The relative humidity of the air averages seventy degrees.
The average rainfall for the past few years was seventeen inches. Roses — and
such roses! — bloom in the open gardens, without shelter, the whole year round,
without irrigation. The city of Santa Barbara and its suburbs contains about
10,000 people. In the course of the winter it is visited by thousands of tourists
from the East, which causes it to present a more metropolitan aspect than many
cities five times its size. During the summer months come the visitors from San
Francisco and the northern part of the State, so that at no time in the year is
Santa Barbara lonesome. Horseback riding, surf-bathing, driving among the
canons and getting the views from the foothills, or merely dreaming away the
hours in the calm enjoyment of the delicate atmosphere, the visitors experience no
difficulty in passing the time. Santa Barbara has a future as interesting as the
past has been. It is probably not destined to achieve great commercial import-
ance. It does not expect to rival San Francisco, nor compete with Los Angeles
for the first place in the southern part of the State. Through its harbor, which is
one of the most perfect on the coast, it will receive a steadily increasing quantity
and variety of imports ; and as the port of a rich and productive region, it must
transact a considerable amount of business. But the true future of Santa Barbara
lies in the manifold advantages which it possesses over other places on this favored
coast, as a place for homes and villas. Not only in the town itself but in the val-

OLD MISSION CHURCH AT SANTA BARBARA.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 175

leys and among the foothills are many perfect sites, where, surrounded by a few
acres, which a little care will transform into a garden, the happy proprietor spends
his days in peace and calm contentment.

The Old Mission. A visit to Santa Barbara is not complete without a
meditative stroll through the old mission, the history of which is pleasantly given
by Mr. E. McD. Johnstone in his delightful book "By Semi-Tropic Seas" as
follows: " This of Santa Barbara is the best preserved of all the od missions,
and has had, perhaps, the most notable history of any. Its presidio, or military
garrison, was founded by Father Junipero Serra, on April 29, 1782, but it was not
until the 4th day of December, 1786, on the celebration of the feast of Santa Bar-
bara, virgin and martyr, that the cross was raised and the mission founded. A few
days after, the Rev. Father Lasuen celebrated mass and preached from a hut or
booth made for the occasion. The territory under control of this mission included
all the arable lands from the ' Rincon ' west to Point Conception, and from the
mountains, on the north, to the sea. The greatest prosperity of the mission was
reached about 1812. The unjust demands continually made upon it by the Spanish
government, and later by the Mexican, greatly weakened its resources, and, finally,
by the secularization act and the withdrawal of Mexican protection, the destruction
of this property, as far as its primal object was concerned, was complete. The
immediate property of the mission was leased in 1845. In 1852 it was organized
into an independent Franciscan convent or college. In 1885 this college, the
titular of which was the Blessed Virgin of the Seven Dolors of Santa Barbara, was
annexed to the Province of the Sacred Heart of Jesus of the U. S. A."

By Rail to LOS Angeles. As a pleasant variety the tourist can make
the return trip from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles by rail, taking the Ventura
Division of the Southern Pacific Company, which forms a junction at Saugus with
the main line from San Francisco. Leaving Santa Barbara with a sigh of regret,
for here, if anywhere, a man could live peaceful days, we pass through groves of
verdure and are soon skirting the ocean with towering cliffs to the land-
ward, which in places have been blasted a way leaving space for the railroad to pass.
The scenery is charming and the mind is pleasantly engaged until the train pauses
at a handsome station building, which is the depot for

Ortega. This is a town of great expectations, with plenty of lot stakes in
sight, but few buildings. The situation is a charming one and there seems to be
every reason to believe that ere long a town worthy of the beautiful, natural sur-
roundings will be established. (Distance from San Francisco, 521 miles. Eleva-
tion, 77 feet.)

Carpinteria. This is a picturesque little town surrounded and encroached
upon by orchards and vineyards. Many of the residents are of Spanish origin, as
Carpinteria dates back to the early settlement of Southern California and was
one of the original nrssion towns. (Population, 300. Distance from San Fran-
cisco, 517 miles. Elevation, 8 feet.)

San Buenaventura. The city of San Buenaventura, since the advent
of the Southern Pacific Company, has made progressive strides. It is a beautiful,
old, ex-Spanish town, with 3,000 population, and is the county seat of Ventura
county. It is beautifully located upon the seashore, just at the point where the
Ventura river breaks through the sand into the sea. There are not many costly or
elegant residences, but rather more than the usual proportion of neat, cosy homes.
The same thing is true of the business blocks, and the town has its full comple-
ment of stores and shops of all kinds. The streets have solid concrete walks and
tile sewerage throughout the town. It is well lighted with gas, and has very

176 OVER THE RANGE

efficient water-works. The hotels are good and well patronized. There are the
usual number of churches, schools and fraternal organizations. The town is lively
and a large volume of business has always been transacted. The climate is
delightful and life here must be a continual delight.

" And oh ! the balmy air 'tis bliss to breathe,

As through the mountain gap steals the fresh breeze,
Tempering the fervid summer's noonday heats
With the gentle breath of mild Pacific seas."

San Buenaventura has until within a comparatively recent date, been, in a
measure isolated from the great centers of trade, not only of California but of the
world ; but now that the Southern Pacific Company has been built through its con-
fines, it has entered upon an era of unexampled prosperity. The road enters the
southeastern part of the county by the way of Newhall, and extends to the coast at
San Buenaventura, tapping a tract of country that for fertility cannot be surpassed.
Los Angeles is but a few hours' ride distant ; and the varied products of this section
find a ready market. (Population, 3,000. Distance from San Francisco, 500
miles. Elevation, 45 feet.)

Fertile Valleys. The great Santa Clara of the South is celebrated for
the fertility of its soil, mildness of climate, and healthfulness of its people. It was
this valley and its tributaries that enabled Ventura county at the Mechanics' Fair
at San Francisco, in 1885, to carry off the first premium for the most extensive and
varied exhibit of farm products. The valley extends nearly east and west across
the county, and is traversed by the Santa Clara river, fed by numerous tributaries,
as the Castic, Piru, Sespe and Santa Paula. At the upper or east end is the San
Francisco ranch, which includes the wheat-growing ranch of the Newhall Brothers,
and the Camulos with its orange and olive orchards, wine-cellars and old vineyards,
made famous by Mrs. Jackson, who wrote apart of her celebrated book, " Ramona"
at this place. San Francisco ranch contains about 12,000 acres ; the Sespe ranch
8,000, well adapted for citrus and deciduous fruits ; the Saticoy Rancho, 17,000
acres ; Bardsdale, a 2.ooo-acre colony ; thence southerly, the Colonia rancho of
45,000 acres, level as a floor. Intervening is the Rancho Santa Clara del Norte,
of 13,000 acres. Next there is the San Miguel rancho, of 5,000 acres — an immense
corn, bean and grain field. When we have passed through this rancho, en route
for Los Angeles, we are in the Ex-Mission, the grant upon which is located the
beautiful and thriving palm city, San Buenaventura. This rancho includes about
48,000 acres, mostly hill lands, lying north of Santa Paula and Saticoy. Among
its hills are some beautiful tracts, well wooded and watered. In this great valley,
the Santa Clara of the South, a large population can be sustained. Its wonderful
resources, climate and scenery attract the attention of home-seekers.

The Ojai valley is a great amphitheater, whose walls are mountains rising like
citadels in all directions. Overlooking the whole is Mt. Topo-topa, rising to a
height of from five to six thousand feet, and coming out in springtime from the
snows of untold winters as fresh and beautiful as ever. The drive to lower Ojai is
exceedingly inviting, being an easy grade along a clear, beautiful stream alive
with trout. In many places the road is arched with sycamore, oak and other
trees, festooned with hanging mosses and vines, and made vocal by the songs of
birds. In the valleys the air is soft and balmy as that of the island of Atlantis
of fabled story. They are the resort of invalids and pleasure-seekers, who receive
the best attention and care at a very moderate price.

Montalvo is another prospective city, with great beauty of situation,

TO 7 '///•: GOLDEN GATE. 177

really a suburb of San Buenaventura, but no great business interests at present.
(Distance from San Francisco, 495 miles. Elevation, 89 feet.)

Saticoy. This pretty little town is situated in the midst of a fruit, grain
and vegetable growing region. Population, 95. Distance from San Francisco.
491 miles. Elevation, 146 feet )

Silllta Paula is one of the leading towns in Ventura county and is fifty
miles north of Los Angeles. It has a growing population and is located in the
center of the beautiful Southern Santa Clara valjey, which has the most productive
soil in the world, producing anything that mother earth can bring forth. Grain,
corn, beans and tropical fruits are raised in abundance, and are unsurpassed in
quantity and quality. There is one orange orchard near the town consisting of
one hundred acres, which is the finest we ever saw.

For climate and health, Santa Paula and its surroundings are unexcelled. The
water supply is abundant from cooling springs in the near mountains. The fine
gardens of vegetation and flowers ripen and bloom the whole year round. In fact,
it is a land overflowing with milk, honey — and oil.

Santa Paula is the headquarters of the oil regions of California. The most
extensive Petroleum Oil operations are on the Rancho Ex-Mission, situated along-
the south side of Sulphur Mountain, beginning about four miles northwest of the
town and extending in a westerly direction eight miles, these wells are owned and
operated by a company which is incorporated with a capital stock of $1,000,000.
This company has been most successful in its development, having a daily produc-
tion of about i.ooo barrels from the many wells and tunnels. The region is a net-
work of pipe lines conveying the oil to Santa Paula, Ventura and Hueneme. The
largest well produces about 300 barrels daily. The next most extensive oil develop-
ments in this region are located at the Sespe, owned and operated by the Sespe
Oil Company, with its office at Santa Paula. The company has a capital stock of
$250,000. The production of the region is about 275 barrels daily, which is
piped to Santa Paula. These two companies keep a large force of men constantly
engaged in drilling new wells, and thus the production is being constantly
augmented. No industry in the Golden State promises better results than
its oil developments, and nothing is more beneficial to Ventura county, and to
Santa Paula in particular. With an abundance of cheap petroleum for fuel,
no section offers better advantages for manufacturing purposes. (Population ,
900. Distance from San Francisco, 483 miles. Elevation 286 feet.)

Caiimlos. This picturesque hamlet has been made known to the world of
book readers as the home of " Ramona." The scenery surrounding it is of the most
attractive character. The San Fernando mountains are on the south, the foot-hills
of the Sierra de San Rafael on the north, the Santa Clara river flows through
the sylvan valley that lies between. On its margins are clumps of willows and
groves of wide-spreading sycamores, and near where its clear waters run by the old
homestead, may be seen the " artichoke patch," and the "flat stone washboards,
on which was done all the family washing." The house, as described by Mrs.
Jackson, was "one of the best specimens to be found in California of the repre-
sentative house of the half barbaric, half elegant, wholly generous and free handed
life led there by Mexican men and women of degree in the early part of this cen-
tury." The foot hill pasture lands, the sheep corrals, the vineyards, olive groves
and orchards, the old Chapel, etc , etc., are aU to be seen quite as really as they
are described in this interesting book. Mrs. Jackson's descriptions of Southern
California scenery are exceedingly fine, and it is not a matter of wonder that she
chose this beautiful spot as the home of her charming Ramona. Camulos presents
12

178 OVER THE RANGE

opportunities for the establishment of ideal homes in the heart of ideal scenery.
(Population, 150. Distance from San Francisco, 463 miles. Elevation, 286 feet.)

SailgUS. Junction of the Ventura D. vision with the main line. Our
journey from here to Los Angeles has already been described.

From L.OS Angeles to San Diego. The trip from Los Angeles to
San Diego abounds in interest and if one obeyed one's inclinations and made a
stop at all the attractive stations which intervene between the inland city and the
city on the ocean side it would take an entire vacation to accomplish the one hun-
dred and eighty-nine miles of the journey. Leaving Los Angeles on the California
Central Railway at a comfortable hour in the morning, we are soon speeding
through the suburbs of the City of Angels. It is difficult for us to tell just when we
have passed beyond the confines of the city, because the country is so fully occu-
pied by handsome villa residences and the suburban stations are of such frequent
occurrence that one is puzzled to determine where the town ends and the country
begins. Downey Avenue, Morgan, Highland Park, Gravanzo, Lincoln Park,
South Pasadena, Raymond, Pasadena, Olivewood, Fair Oaks and Lamanda Park
are all busy stations disposed within a distance of thirteen miles from Los Angeles
It is therefore not to be wondered at that the traveler is confused and at a loss to
know just when he is "out of town." Beyond Lamanda Park the stretches of
open country between stations begin to widen and one can look out of the window
at least twice before another town appears in view.

Raymond. As this station is approached one sees on the right an aspiring
hill adorned with handsome lawns, ornamental shrubbery, trailing vines and um-
brageous trees. The summit of this hill is crowned by a massive and stately edifice
that at once attracts attention and excites curiosity. On inquiry we learn that this
is the Hotel Raymond and that here are entertained the hundreds of guests
brought hither by the well known excursion managers, Messrs. Raymond and
Whitcomb. This, however, forms but a small part of the patronage of the Hotel
Raymond, for from its excellent management, beautiful situation and healthful
location the hotel has become exceedingly popular. Of course there is a town-site
here and, what is not always the case in this country of town-sites, there is a town
as well, with the prospects of a city.

South Pasadena is a flourishing suburb of Pasadena and will soon be so
merged into the parent town that they will be practically one and the same city.

One of the loveliest towns in the world lies
before us as we enter Pasadena. From a sheep
range in 1873 to the paradise of fruits and flowers

PASADENA.

An Orchard City.
Beautiful for Situation.

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

and verdure which greets our eyes to day is a magic
transformation. Yet such, in a word, is the history
. _ . of Pasadena. The semi-tropical luxuriance of floral

and arboreal growth which delights us here has
sprung into existence within the marvelously short
space of a decade and a half, and, nestling here
among the orange groves and fruiting vineyards, is
a city whose beauty of architecture is a glowing testimonial to the good taste,
wealth and liberality of its residents. I know of no pleasanter or more interesting
drives than those which may be taken along the broad tree-lined avenues of Pasa-
dena. Within spa«ious enclosures on each hand may be seen elegant villa resi-
dences or splendid mansions surrounded by ornamental grounds of the greatest
beauty. Palm trees, magnolias, century plants, fig trees, ancient live oaks, sur-
vivals of the days when this was only grazing ground for flocks and herds, pepper

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

179

trees, blue gums and an infinite variety of ornamental shrubbery, make these
drives entirely novel, interesting and charming. The city obtains an abundant
supply of water from the Arroyo Seco Canon and the results of irrigation confront
one in the wonderful groves of citrus and deciduous trees. Pasadena has a round
dozen of churches, representing an expenditure of nearly half a million dollars. It
has business blocks of metropolitan proportions, spacious and elegant theatres,

NEAR SAN GABRIEL AND PASADENA.

four banks, a score of hotels, large manufacturing establishments, canning factories,
horse car lines, telephone system, electric lights, — in short, all of the modern con-
veniences. As a place of residence we know of no more charming city than
Pasadena, whose ten thousand inhabitants have every reason to congratulate them-
selves that their lines have fallen in such pleasant places. The wonderful climate
of Pasadena is one of its chief attractions. Tourists who arrive in November or

180 OVER THE RANGE

October are constantly on the watch for winter. Finally a rain storm comes,
drenching the earth, and a few weeks later the ground the length and breadth of
the land is carpeted with flowers, form succeeding form, until color and variety,
tint and hue, seem to have run riot ; by this token you may know that the winter
has come. The tops of the Sierras are clothed with snow, so near that you can
see the snow blown high in air by the mountain's blizzard, so near that in two
hours' ride you can go snow balling or tobogganing, yet here at Pasadena the
ground is white with the blossoms of the orange, there is a carnival of flowers in
every dooryard, and to the student who arranges his plants according to their a!ti-
tudinal horizons, it is a puzzle. Here, in the same latitude as Wilmington, N. C ,
we find the banana, fig, pomegranate, guava, alligator pear, cocoanut, the fan
palm, sago palm, cactus, the yucca, century plant, cork tree, the rubber tree, the
olive, orange, lime, lemon, and a host of other tropical forms, yet it can not be a
tropical climate, as side by side with these is seen every pine known from Norfolk
Island to the shores of the Arctic Sea, firs, spruces ; and as for fruits, we see the
apple, pear, peach, apricot, plum, nectarine, all the small fruits, everything found
in the gardens of New York State.

The seasons are difficult to understand. The summer mean temperature at
Pasadena is 66. 61 degrees ; that of Mentone in the Riviera, 73 degrees ; of Jack-
sonville, Fla., 81 degrees ; of New York, about 73 degrees. Thus it will be seen
Pasadena can not have remarkably warm weather. The summer, with the excep-
tion of one or two days, is not unpleasantly warm, and it is always pleasant
and comfortable in the shade, while every night is sufficiently cool to require a
blanket. Not a case of prostration from heat, not a squall or wind storm, seldom
a thunder-clap or sign of lightning, and hardly a cloud in the sky ; this is the
record of the summer here. Every day is a pleasant one, and such heat as is
experienced in New York City in the summer is never felt.

Three hundred and forty days out of the year will permit of continuous out-of-
door life in the open sunlight, and at least half of the others may be enjoyed.
This is the great secret. The country is the land of ihe open air, winter and sum-
mer, and the conditions of altitude and nearness to large cities allowing of all the
luxuries and comforts, add to its attractions.

For further descriptive matter concerning this place the reader is referred to
the addenda.

Lailianda Park. We wish to do the tourist who reads this book a good
turn, having his comfort and enjoyment at heart ; therefore we advise him to stop
at Lamanda Park and make his headquarters for a day, or a week, or a fortnight,
in this delightful spot. In the first place one can find here a home-like and com-
fortable hotel ; in the second place, this is an excellent point from which to make
radiating trips through the charming San Gabriel Valley or among the foot-hills
and up the peaks of the Sierra Madre Mountains. Within an hour's drive
are Sierra Madre Villa, the famous Rose Vineyards, Baldwin's ranch, where, be-
sides miles of orange avenues are to be found, at Santa Anita, the stables made
famous by the fast horses owned by the "bonanza king." Orange orchards, ave-
nues of English walnut trees, lemon groves, vineyards, veritable forests of decidu-
ous fruit trees and a tropic luxuriance of splendid floral beauties surround this
place, which, though modest i* size, is as we have said, a charming resting spot
and a most convenient point from which to radiate in all directions and view either
the grandeur of the mountains or the more quiet but none the less attractive beau-
ties of the valley. < For further descriptive matter concerning this place the reader
is referred to the addenda.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 18?

SIERRA MADRE VILLA

An Ideal Pleasure

and

Health Resort.
In the Heart of Orange

Groves, on the

Slope of the Sierra

Mad re Mountains.

The fame of the Sierra Madre Villa is world-
wide. Ou its shaded verandas congregate daily the
most cultivated and intelligent people. It is not
always the same company that gathers here, but
it is always a company which it gives pleasure for
one to meet. The class of guests is of the best,
because the reputation of the Villa naturally attracts
that class. This ideal pleasure and health resort is
located on the southern slope of the Sierra Madre
Mountains, fourteen hundred feet above the level
of the sea. This elevation gives it complete im-
munity from the fogs of the sea and valley, and
also gives a view of the most wide-horizoned beauty.
Here we are only fourteen miles from Los Angeles, far enough away to escape the
turmoil of the city, and near enough to enjoy all of its advantages. Theatre trains
are run three or four nights each week, and one can go to Los Angeles by train
at almost any hour in the day. The California Central Railroad passes within a
mile and a half of the villa, Lamanda Park being the station. The views from
the Villa overlooking the beautiful San Gabriel Valley, are a glorious panorama of
rugged mountain ranges, extensive orange groves — in one of which the Villa
stands — vineyards, and the distant ocean with its shadowy islands. Here is,
indeed, an ideal home with good food skillfully prepared, pure air and sparkling
mountain water. With all these essentials for health, comfort and luxury, the
tourist can not fail to enjoy his sojourn here. The fame of the Villa for its beautiful
and healthful location, and superior accommodations, with all modern improve-
ments for over one hundred guests, has become international. There are fine
suites of sunny rooms, broad verandas, inclosed with glass to keep out chilly air
if desired, a beautiful lawn, flowers, etc., and the most genial climate under the
sun. Good roads and a beautiful drive from Los Angeles to the Villa. Eight trains
daily leave Los Angeles from First street depot, all stopping at Lamanda Park,
where the stage from the Villa meets all trains.

The San Gabriel Valley. The remarkable growth of the San Gabriel
Valley of Southern California may be traced to a single imperishable feature — its
climate. Towns and cities have appeared like magic; not the mushroom growth
one expects and finds where a mining excitement has been the magnet, but towns
which in completeness, architectural beauty, taste and culture of the people, wih
equal many in the East dating back fifty years or more. Ten years ago the San
Gabriel Valley was, comparatively speaking, unoccupied. Several small towns, as
Duarte, San Gabriel, Puente, were the chief centres, and the entire land was CUT
up into large holdings or ranches. To day we find towns by the dozen larger than
these pioneers, three lines of transcontinental railway, and one city, Pasadena,
with a summer or permanent population of fifteen thousand persons, and a winter
one ranging from twenty thousand to forty thousand. The San Gabriel Valley is
about ten miles wide and thirty miles long. Upon the north are the California
Maritime Alps — the Sierra Madre range — rising directly from the plains in a
series of parallel ridges, in peaks from four thousand to fourteen thousand feet
above the sea. To the west, spurs of the main range, the Sierra Santa Monica, the
San Rafael and the Verdugo Mountains form a protective boundary, while to the
south the Puente Hills rise, beyond which, faintly visible, twenty-five miles away, is
the Pacific. The Valley is therefore completely environed on all sides, having abso-
lute protection from prevailing winds from the north, in this respect again resem-

182 OVER THE RANGE

bling the Riviera of Europe. The presence of these mountains and canons rising
so abruptly from the valley gives to the locality a scenic charm difficult to describe,
and for its peculiar charm the view of the Sierra Madre range at Pasadena is un-
equaled in this country.

Monrovia. This handsome little city has been christened by its admirers
" The Gem of the Foot-h'lls," and, in fact, there is quite as much truth as poetry
in the title. It has a most attractive site, commanding a comprehensive view of
the San Gabriel Valley to the front, while the background is filled in with the mass-
ive range of the Sierra Madre mountains. The town has two lines of street railway
and a motor line to Los Angeles was nearly completed at the time of this writing.
It possesses an elegant and cosily hotel, furnished with all the modern improve-
ments, handsome school-houses, first class business blocks, fine private residences,
and no saloons.

Duarte. This is one of the oldest of the settlements of the Valley and is
surrounded by a country of great productiveness. Farming is a considerable in-
dustry and great quantities of corn and alfalfa, in addition to fruit, are raised.

Azusa is near the upper end of the San Gabriel Valley and is in the centre
of the great ranch from which it takes its name. The stations now follow in quick
succession until San Bernardino is reached. In fact the train never makes more
than four miles advance without either stopping at a station or passing through
one. To give the reader an idea of the frequent occurrence of these towns we
append a list, with the distance of each from Los Angeles : Glendora, 27 ; San
Dimas. 31 ; Lordsburg, 34; North Pomona, 35; Claremont, 36; North Ontario,
41 ; North Cocamonga, 45 ; Etiwanda, 47 ; Rialto, 57, and San Bernardino, 60.
One of the most marvelous things connected with this journey of sixty miles from
Los Angeles tc* San Bernardino, aside from the marvels of nature, is that for an
average of every three miles of the journey there is a station and that at many of
these stations there are considerable towns and at several of them thriving cities.
_ At San Bernardino we stop for dinner and

change cars, taking the California Southern Rail-
road for San Diego. The station is a large and

SAN BERNARDINO,

A Beautiful Residence
City.

Manufacturing spacious building, admirably fitted for the purposes

and Mercantile Centre. tO which k is dedicated" The city of San Bernai"
dino lies in a most beautiful and fertile valley. The

county embraces 23,476 square miles, and contains

not only some of the finest farming land, citrus and
deciduous fruits of countless varieties, but also rich
mines, and many mineral springs and health resorts.
The scenery is magnificent and varied, the mountains abound in timber, and game
is plentiful. The climate is superb and invigorating. The city of San Bernardino
is situated in the centre of a valley one mile square and has a population of 10,000,
and is rapidly increasing in size and wealth. Among other notable buildings are
the finest brick grammar school in Southern California, a court-house which cost
$40,000; the Stewart Hotel, costing $125,000; an opera house, an excellent
hospital, and churches of all denominations. There is an abundance of artesian
water. Three lines of railroads cross the county— the Southern Pacific, through
Los Angeles and Colton, to Yuma and Arizona, and the California Southern from
San Diego, through San Bernardino to Barstow, where it connects with the Atlan-
tic & Pacific ; and the Los Angeles & San Bernardino Railroad, which runs on a
straight line between the two cities. There is also the Valley Railroad, from the
city to Gladysta, Lugonia, Redlands and Mentone, to the west line of High View.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 183

A a. tor road also runs continuously between this city and Colton, a distance of
three miles, and the San Bernardino £ Redlands Motor Road to Redlands and
Lugonia, via Victoria and Old San Bernardino orange groves. Also the San Ber-
nardino & Arrowhead Narrow Gauge to Arrowhead Mot Springs. Street cars are
running to all parts of the city. Building material is abundant and cheap. Among
the varied products that attain perfection here we may mention oranges, raisins,
wines, fruits and flowers of all kinds, alfalfa, corn and barley, while gold, silver
and borax are found in large quantities in the near mountain ranges.

A Fertile Valley. The county of San Bernardino is the largest in Cali-
fornia, and includes within its limits the valley of the same name. It contains
much land which is now lying fallow, but which will in time be irrigated and
made very productive. In its southwest corner are several large valleys well irri-
gated and of unusual fertility. Within them are long stretches of almost level
plains, from which the gently undulating mesas gradually rise until they reach the
foothills. The lower level lands are sufficiently moist to grow alfalfa, corn and
vegetables, without irrigation; and the soil is mainly a black sandy loam. The
higher lands become more sandy, while the foothills contain the gravel washings
from the mountains. These higher lands grow vines and deciduous fruits with the
natural moisture, oranges and lemons alone require artificial irrigation. The
higher lands are better for deciduous fruits, the mesas or table-lands for citrus
fruits, the lower lands for vegetables and general farming. There are some im-
mense vineyards in the country, and a vast quantity of excellent wine is made.
After a barley crop is harvested, it is succeeded on the damp or irrigated lands by
a crop of corn. Alfalfa yields well and is cut from three to seven times in the
season. About two tons are taken off each acre at a cutting. The heavy black
loam of the mountain sides grows exceptionally fine potatoes. Vegetables and
edible roots of all kinds attain an enormous growth in the valley. Besides the
semi-tropical fruits, all those of more northern latitudes can be raised. These val-
leys surpass any others in the southern part of the State in the matter of an abun-
dant supply of water for irrigating purposes. The Chino Ranch and Ontario lands
are in this county, as well as those of Riverside, whose oranges and raisins have
gained a National reputation.

Colton. This live town is at the crossing of the California Southern and
the Southern Pacific railroads, and an unusually handsome station and large hotel
are to be seen here. The town is only four miles from San Bernardino, and the
time is not far distant when they will be one city. The citizens of Colton are en-
terprising and liberal, and as a result the town is making rapid and large improve-
ment. Canning factories are established here, and the shipments of prepared fruit
and fruit in its natural state are something extraordinary. The surrounding coun-
try is of unsurpassed fertility, and a drive of half a day through the never-ending
groves of orange trees and in the midst of most entrancing scenery will convince
one that Colton has every requisite for becoming a large and flourishing city. It
is surely a most delightful place of residence. For further descriptive matter
concerning this city the reader is referred to the addenda.

East .Riverside is the station for Riverside, reached by a branch line.

South Riverside, on the California Southern Railway, 15 miles southwest
of Riverside, is remarkable for the beauty of its situation and the symmetry of its
design. The projectors of this delightful town had original ideas and the town-site
is exactly circular in form. Fruit raising is one of the leading industries, while
manufacturing is receiving a great deal of attention and has already been firmly
established here. For further description of this colony see addenda.

VIEW IN SAN ANTONIO CANON. ONTARIO, CAL.

TO THE GOLD EX GA TE. 185

RIVERSIDE.

The Orange Grove City

Washington has been wittily denominated " the
city of magnificent distances," but here in Southern
California we have found a city equally as deserv-
ing; of that characterization. Riverside manages to

cover twenty- five thousand acres, and this great

South*™ California. extent of territory has upon it between thr.e and

four thousand inhabitants. But did ever anyone
behold a more beautiful sight than this orchard city, reclining in the midst
of orange groves, its magnificent avenues lined with ornamental trees, among
which the oriental palm is most conspicuous, its artistic villa residences surrounded
with grounds in which the care of the landscape gardener, can be seen, its
tine business blocks of brick and stone, its handsome hotels and its surrounding
vineyards making it a perfect bower of beautv.

Resuming our journey on the main line from East Riverside, we pass through
Box Springs, Alessandro and Ferris, which latter place is situated on the San Jacinto
River, which empties in Lake Elsinore, some twelve miles farther on. The country
has become more rugged, for we are now skirting the San Jacinto hills. We pass
through deep cuts and around projecting spurs, and finally enter a very pretty
canon, emerging from which we pause at Elsinore on the margin of

JLake Elsinore. This is a lovely little sheet of water, cradled in the
highlands, with a bold mountain range to the west. The lake is four miles long
and about half a mile wide, and forms a charming feature in the landscape.

"Wildomar. At the foot of Elsinore Lake is Wildomar. This town has a
very picturesque situation, and considerable expense has been ncurred in planting
trees, grading the streets, and bringing water in pipes from the adjacent moun-
tains. It has schools, churches, good business houses and a population of about
two hundred. For further descriptive matter concerning this place, the reader is
referred to the Addenda.

Marietta. This is a regular meal station, and on that account is of inter-
est to the traveler. It is situated on the Margurita ranch, which comprises
208,000 acres of land, especially and solely adapted for grazing. San Margurita
Creek flows through the town, and the railroad follows this stream for thirty seven
miles, and then, over the brow of a rolling mesa to our right, the great Pacific
Ocean bursts on our view.

Ocean Side. This thriving town of a thousand inhabitants has a com-
manding situation on a mesa two hundred feet above the level of the ocean. From
this point of view the coast line can be followed in either direction as far as the eye
can reach. Here there is one of the finest hotels (The South Pacific) on the coast,
and here great improvements have been inaugurated by the enterprising citizens.
The accommodations for sea bathing are most complete, and Ocean Side is sure to
become an exceedingly popular pleasure resort. Between Ocean Side and San
Diego, a distance of forty seven miles, there are just a "baker's dozen " of sta-
tions. At some of them one can see hotels of the most imposing size and beautiful
architecture, a house or two. and thousands of lot stakes, but no great showing of
business or population. The stations occur in the following order : Carlsbad,
Leucadia, Encinitas, Del Mar, Cardero, Sorrento Alpine Selwyn, La Jolla,
Roses Siding, Morena and Old Town.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 187

The magnificent natural advantages of San
Diego cannot fail to make this the great city of
Southern California. It lies upon a slope facing
San Uiego Bay. This slope extends back perhaps
an average mile, where it reaches an altitude of 200

SAN DIEGO.

The Naples of
the New World.

The Great Bay City of feet ab°Ve the leVel °f the SCa' and fr°m

point the country extends back in a broad, rolling

Southern California. mesa \yith such a slope, and with such an ascend-

ing altitude, opportunities are offered for the most
wide-sweeping and magnificent views. At the foot
of the city lies the land-locked bay, one of the most beautiful in the world, glistening
like a sheet of silver in the genial rays of an unclouded sun. Between the bay
and the ocean is the Coronado peninsula, on the expanded part of which is the
town of Coronado, with the largest hotel in the world. Beyond Coronado is the
Pacific Ocean, whose long, rolling sTvells break upon a level and far-extending
beach, their combining crests breaking into snow-white foam as they fall with
majestic regularity upon the shining sands. The distant background is formed by
the mountains, with the Jamul, old San Miguel and El Cajon standing well
forward, the advance guard of an army of giants. To the right is the receding
mesa; to the left the table lands and mountains of Old Mexico. The landscape in
garb of varying green, the bay and ocean with their ever-changing shades from
shining silver to deep, dark blue, form a picture of such entrancing beauty that
neither pen nor pencil can adequately depict. \Vith such natural attractions, to
which should be added the attractions of climate, it is not a matter of wonder that
the population of San Diego has increased rapidly since overland transportation
facilities have been provided. The city's population in November, 1885, was but
the population of a healthy village, say about four thousand; a year later saw it
advance to a city of between ten and twelve thousand; and by November, 1887,
the population had doubled again, and reached a total of twenty-five thousand
souls. The increase since has been steady, and the common but conservative
estimate of the population to-day is thirty thousand. The character of the popula-
tion is truly American. Because to the Eastern mind San Diego is " away in the
West," the impression prevails with some that its population is of that western
character to be found in romance of the light order. A greater mistake could not
be imagined. San Diego is as typical an American city as any to be found in the
land of Americans. If the influence of any one city may be said to prevail here,
it is the influence of the City of Boston; and there is reason for it. The Sante Fe
Railroad, whose western terminus is at this harbor, is an institution maintained by
Boston men and Boston capital. This has naturally created in Boston a financial,
and finally a social, interest in San Diego, which has resulted in the transplant-
ing of many Boston men and women from the metropolis of New England to the
new city by the sunset sea. They have found here a genial, social climate. Tn a
city covering as much ground as does San Diego, the matter of transportation is of
first importance. This has been looked after by the enterprising citizens. Horse
cars, steam motors and electric motors are already in use, and a franchise for a
cable system has been granted, upon which it is expected work will begin in a short
time. The San Diego Street Car Company has in operation twelve and one-half
miles of horse car lines. The Coronado Railroad Company has in operation twenty-
eight miles of suburban steam motor lines. The Electric Rapid Transit Company
controls about six miles of road, and is rapidly extending its lines, which, under the
Henry Electric System, are being operated with great success. The National City

188 OVER THE RANGE

& Otay Railway Company have twenty-nine miles of steam motor lines and three-
fourths of a mile of horse car line under operation. These lines centre in the city,
and afford frequent and rapid communication to all parts and to the suburban
towns and valleys.

The bay of San Diego is one of the most beau-
tiful in the world; it is also a great factor in the

SAN DIEGO BAY.

A Thing of Beauty
and a

success of the city. There are larger harbois than
this, but for the uses to which harbors are devoted,
there are none better anywhere than that of San

Great Commercial Dieg°' and k is lar^e en°U^h tO afford a Safe refuSe

for the entire merchant fleet of the United States.

The bay is thirteen miles long, and the total area

of water is twenty two square miles. Commodore
C. P. Patterson, Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey, wrote in 1878:

" I have crossed this bar at all hours, both day and night, with steamers of
from 1,000 to 3,000 tons burden, during all seasons of the year, for several years,
without detention. It is the only land locked harbor south of San Francisco and
north of San Quintin, Lower California, and from a national point of view its
importance is so great that its preservation demands National protection, arid justi-
fies National expenditure."

It may be added right here, however, that the Government has never acted
upon Commodore Patterson's worthy suggestion Not one dollar of Government
money has been spent in either the improvement or preservation of San Diego harbor.
It stands to-day as nature made it. The depth across the bar is 23 feet at mean
low water, with a rise of from 3^ feet to S1A feet at high water; and a regular
trader at this port, the ship ''Jeremiah Thompson," drawing 26^ feet of water,
comes into the harbor and reaches the wharves without danger or difficulty, bring-
ing an average cargo of 1,500,000 feet of lumber.

The history of this wonderful city reads like a romance. Previous to Novem-
ber, 1885, San Diego existed chiefly as a town-site, and, measured by the corpora-
tion limits, it contained an amplitude of area. It was in 1833 that the Pueblo of
San Diego was organized; but it was not until eleven years later, in the latter part
of the year 1844, that the people followed the usual customs of those times, and
petitioned the Government of Mexico (this whole country was then under Mexican
rule) for a tract of land. A few acres more or less was of no particular account to
the Mexican Government at that time, and a grant of seventy five square miles was
made, "to be used, controlled and disposed of by the legally authorized represent-
atives of the city." These seventy- five square miles or, to be exact and use the
figures of the surveyor who traced the lines subsequently for the Government, and
who reported that the entire Pueblo consisted of 48 556.69 acres, do now, minus
1,233 8 acres reserved by the Government for military purposes, constitute the area
of the corporation of San Diego. The question of title never arises here. That
original grant has been confirmed, and upon it rests all instruments of sale.

The shores of the bay are dotted with suburban towns, which share the
benefits of San Diego harbor. They are separated from the City of San Diego by
distinct bounds, but it is only a matter of time when they will become integral
parts of the parent city. These towns are known as Nat onal City, Roseville an'd
Coronado.

National City is located four miles down the bay, reckoning the distance
from the center of the business community of each city. The two cities are, how-
ever, already practically merged into one, as they are one in interest and in

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

189

sentiment. National City has a population of 3,000. It is the terrnin-is of the
Santa Fe system on the Pacific coast, and of the National City & Otay Railway
Company. A capacious wharf furnishes facilities for deep-sea vessels to unload,
and here, too, ship and rail are brought together. An olive oil mill having been
established, National City is the olive market for Los Angeles, San Bernardino and
San Diego counties. It is furnished with water from the recently completed
Sweetwater reservoir, which has a capacity of six billion gallons, and insures a
supply sufficient for a city of twenty-five thousand inhabitants.

Gorouatlo. On Coronado Beach, just across the bay from San Diego, is a
city which has already become famous throughout the country. In two years' time
this wild waste of land has been transformed into a city with a population of two
thousand. It has one hotel which cost one million dollars, and others which cost
large sums; it has elegant and substantial residences; it has an iron foundry in

YOUNG AMERICA'S FRIEND.

operation, and half a dozen factories of various kinds; it has ship-ways with a
capacity for dry-docking the largest coast steamers on an hour's notice; it has
complete water, gas and sewer systems, and, as a whole, has been converted
into a veritable garden, the streets being uniformly lined with tropical trees, shrubs
and flowers. The surf-bathing of Coronado Beach is the best on the entire coast,
and probably the finest in the world. The beach slopes gently, and the sand is
hard and free from stones and ragged shells, and there is no undertow. The
temperature of the air and of the sea is about equal both in winter and summer;
consequently there are extraordinary inducements for surf bathing all the year
round.

Roseville and New Koseville are located not far from the entrance
to the harbor. A fine wharf has been built there, regular ferries established, and
the works of the San Diego Nail Factory are now being erected. They will have

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 191

a capacity of 500 kegs of nails a day, and will be one of the important industries of
the San Diego region.

The Sweetwater Dam. This dam is one of the engineering wonders
of this region, and an excursion to it is a most enjoyable experience It is situ-
ated about six miles back of National City, and is reached by the National City &
Otay Railroad. The dam, together with sixty-five miles of wrought iron pipe laid
from the reservoir to National City, and to various points in that section for
irrigation purposes, cost a to^al of $800,000. The dimensions of the dam are as
follows : 46 feet in thickness at the base, 12 feet in thickness at the top, 75 feet
in length at the base, 396 feet in length at the top. The reservoir is three miles
long, three fourths of a mile wide, and covers 700 acres. When full it will hold
six billion gallons of Avater, a quantity sufficient to irrigate 30,000 acres of land and
supply a city of 50,000 people for one year, or irrigate 50,000 acres of land one
year.

The climate of this region is a perpetual source
of wonder to visitors. It is stating the simple,
unquestionable fact to say that it has no equal
among the health resorts of the world. From the
compiled records of the U. S. Signal station here

THE CLIMATE.

Summer the Year

The Home of Health
and Pleasure.

we extract the following : From 1876 to 1885,
both years inclusive, covering a period of ten years,

and embracing a period of 3,653 days, there were
3,533 days on which the mercury did not rise above
80°; and only 120 days in ten years in which the
thermometer marked a higher temperature than

80°. During these ten years there were never more than two days in any one
month in which the mercury rose as high as 85°, except June, 1877, four days,
September, 1878, five days; Tune, 1879, two days; September, 1879, four days.

Returning1 to LOS Angeles. The lovers of fine scenery, yachting,
ocean bathing, salt sea fishing, outings among the hills, and those who delight in
a summer which circles the entire year, will most reluctantly tear themselves away
from the charms of San Diego. But one can't travel and stand still at the same
time; so we take a night train northward on the same line we came in on, and
sleep sweetly in one of Pullman's Palaces until we reach Colton. Here, after a
good breakfast, we take the Southern Pacific road for Los Angeles, thus passing
through new scenes from this point on to our destination. The first station reached
after leaving Colton is

CocaniOllga. This town is situated in the region made familiar to the
public by the Cocamonga wine, the grapes here being noted for their fine quality.
Slover Mountain is near Cocamonga, and is remarkable for containing quarries of
onyx, lime, marble and cement. The " Mountain" is in reality only a moderate
sized conical hill, but its rich deposits make it more valuable than a whole range of
its big brothers. The marble is of the best quality, and can be quarried in great
blocks, fifty feet long, if desired, and with a width of from five to six feet. The
onyx is white, and is mined in large quantities for ornamental uses. Along the
southern foot of Slover mountain flows the river Santa Ana.

Ontario is located on the main lines of the Southern Pacific and the Santa
Fe Railways, the main depot being on the Southern Pacific, 38 miles from Loa
Angeles and 20 from Colton, while the Santa Fe runs two miles north, the station
being North Ontario. From the Southern Pacific depot, the Chino Valley Nar-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

193

SAN ANTONIO FALLS. ONTARIO, CAL.

row Gauge is built through the Chino
Ranch, 'jy the town of Chino, running
three daily trains each way. The
Southern Pacific and Santa Fe run
also three trains daily each way, thus
affording first-class railway facilities;
besides which, the proprietor of the
Chino Ranch & Chino Valley Rail-
road proposes to extend immediately
his railroad to the sea, in the neighbor-
hood of the new harbor of San Pedro.
Ontario comprises some 12,000 acres,
located on the mesa which slopes
south gradually from the Sierra Madre
Mountains to the Santa Ana River.
It is in the west part of what is com-
monly known as the San Bernardino
Valley, and occupies the highest point
passed by rail or carriage road between
Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The
lands reach from the mountains around
the San Antonio canon to the Chino
Ranch, a distance of about nine miles,
and the Colony ranges in width from
one to three miles. The altitude is a
little less than 1,000 feet at the ranch
line, and the grade is about 100 feet
to the mile, increasing a little nearer
the mountains, the mouth of the canon
being about 2,200 feet above sea
level.

The scenery around Ontario is of
the most striking and attractive char-
acter. To the northwest rise the
Sierra Madre Mountains, while to the
east towers the San Bernardino Range,
and to the west slumbers the dreamy
Pacific Ocean. As special landmarks
in this striking scene are the four
highest peaks of Southern California,
namely: Mount San Bernardino and
Old Grayback to the east, San lacinto
to the southeast, and Mt. San Antonio
(Old Baldy) adjoining the Ontario
tract on the north. Ontario occupies
the elevated plateau between the San
Bernardino Mountains and the ocean.
The mountains being closely adjacent,
and the sea being forty miles distant.
The settler can choose his Altitude
from 900 to 2,500 feet, anu bv so

194 OVER THE RANGE

doing find exactly the climate that is suited to his personal tastes On
the higher slopes of Ontario we can see orange groves bearing fruit and
flowers in delightful profusion, suggesting the breezes of " Araby the Blest,"
while half a dozen miles distant on the mountain peaks gleams the arctic
snows. Nowhere in the world are summer and winter brought into closer juxtapo-
sition. Tne zones of perpetual summer and never-ending winter are separated
only by the San Antonio Canon. Nor is it scenery alone which recommends the
"Model Colony " of Ontario. Here are the best fruit lands in this country of
fruit producing acres. Here the orange and the lime grow most perfectly and
most abundantly; here deciduous fruits flourish, and here, in a word, is the fruit
growers' paradise. It is alleged that orange groves at less than four years of age
have produced, and frequently do produce, from $300 to $500 worth of fruit per
acre. So great is the fertility, indeed, that three year old trees have been known
to produce a full box of oranges each. But oranges are not the sole products of
this wonderful soil. There are grown in great profusion the olive, peach,
apricot, guava, prune, pear, apple, persimmon, plum, raisin and grape, and when
one has mentioned these, he has only begun rhe list. For residence there can be
no pleasanter place than Ontario, and for horticulture and arboriculture surely no
place can claim precedence. For further information concerning this place, the
reader is referred to the Addenda.

One of the prettiest towns in the San Bernardino
Valley is Pomona, in the eastern part of Los
Angeles county, thirty miles from the city of Los
Angeles and thirty miles from the Pacific Ocean
northward and fifty miles eastward. The Sierra
Madre range of mountains— average elevation of
g.ooo feet above the sea, with snow-capped peaks —

POMONA.

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

A Fruit Growing Para-
dise.

are distant six miles north, and Mt. San Bernardino
(height 11,000 feet) and Mt. San Jacinto (about
the same height) forty and fifty miles eastward,
The lower range, called the San Jose Hills, midway
between the Sierra Madre Range and the ocean, terminates at the city, and the
great valley widens at this point to twenty-five and thirty miles.

Thus these high mountain ranges protect this valley equally from harsh sea
winds and the unpleasant dry winds and sand storms of the desert. The altitude
of the city is 860 feet above the sea, the valley rising gradually to 2,coo feet at the
foot of the mountains. The immediate locality bears a similar relation to the
mountains and the ocean as the celebrated health resorts of Mentone and Nice.

A ride through the streets of the city, or along the many roads traversing the
country in every direction, will disclose many fine residences; also cosy, comforta-
ble homes. Houses, which are neither large nor costly, show the refinement of
true comfort and adaptation to the wants of the owners. The mild, open winters,
and consequent freedom from cold, do not require as expensive houses as in east-
ern and northern climates; therefore the house is open, cheery and home-like in its
appointments, many with broad verandas for the open-air life of the occupants
during most of the days of the year; and yet the individuality of the owner is as
plainly seen in the architecture and plan of the modest home as the more preten-
tious building of the city or in older communities; for these quiet homes are sur-
rounded by groves of trees, many of them evergreen — rows of vines extending
almost as far as the eye can reach — with roses and flowers from the roadside to and
surrounding the house, the whole deeply impressing the visitor with the air of

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 195

home- like comfort and cheerfulness everywhere prevailing. The town is amply
supplied with water, this precious fluid being obtained from three sources, namely,
San Antonio Caflon, numerous cienegas which encircle the valley, and which are
fed by subterranean streams from the high mountains and attesian wells. There
are in this valley some of the finest flowing wells upon the continent, some of which
have given an undiminished flow for nearly ten years. There are now flowing in
the Pomona Valley sixty-seven wells, fifty- two of which are owned by the Pom-
ona Land and Water Company, who are extending their works at different points
and increasing the number. These waters are alike free from alkaline, saline or
mineral taint, and deliciously cool and invigorating. The right to use water for
irrigation is sold with the land, so that there need be no fear of a lack of this neces-
sity upon the part of those who settle here Additional information concerning
this place will be found in the Addenda.

As Pomona is directly suggestive of the subject of fruit, and as fruit culture
is the great industry of Southern California, this is an appropriate place to introduce
a few statistics on the subject. We condense the following facts from reliable
documents:

The cost of raw land may safely be placed at $150 per acre, which is about an
average, according to location. In the following estimates for a vineyard, the
Zinfandel and Berger grapes have been taken, varieties which have been tested
here, and which have proven highly satisfactory:

Ten acres of land @ $150 per acre -. $1,500

Two plowings, leveling, etc., @ $5 per acre 50

Cost of cutting for 10 acres 50

Planting, @ $5 per acre 50

Care for two years, ©$15 per acre. 300

Total cost till brought to bearing $i,95O

Crop third year, 5 tons to acre, @. $20 per ton $1,000

Crop fourth year, 7 tons to acre, @. $20 per ton 1,400

Crop fifth year, 10 tons per acre, @ $20 per ton 2,000

Total for three years _ $4,400

Deduct cost of care for third year, fourth and fifth years, @

$15 per acre $ 450

Cost of land, vineyard, etc _. 1,95°

Interest 2 years, @ 10 per cent 390

$2,790

Net profit, five years $1,610

This estimate supposes that all the work is hired. If a man is not afraid to

take hold and do most of the work himself, which he can easily do, the expense

account would be materially smaller.

Prunes promise to be a most profitable fruit, and have proven themselves at

home in this valley.

Cost of ten acres of land, as given above $1,500

Plowing, etc _ _ — 50

Cost of prune trees for ten acres 180

Planting 50

Care for 3 years, @ $15 per acre per year 450

Cost of lo-acre prune orchard to time of bearing $2,230

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 197

The fourth year the account stands about thus:

Crop, loo Ibs. per tree and 108 trees per acre, 108,000 Ibs.,

@ acts, per Ib $2,160

Fifth year, 150 Ibs. per tree, 162,000 Ibs., @ 2 cts 3,240

$5,400
Deduct cost of orchard ..$2,230

Interest on $2,230 for 3 years, @ 10 per cent.. . 669

$2.899

Net profits for five years. $2 ,501

Other deciduous trees will show about the same result. As has been stated,
the expense account can be largely decreased if a man is willing to take hold and
work. One horse will do all the cultivating ; thirty dollars will buy all the im-
plements needed, and there need be no expense for hired help until the grapes or
fruit are to be gathered, and enough potatoes and other vegetables can be raised
on the land to furnish a living for the first few years.

Iteyond Pomona are a number of small stations possessing all the requisites of
climate, soil and scenery to become thriving towns; which, doubtless, will be the
outcome in a few years. At present, however, they possess only a statistical value
to the tourist. These stations occur in the following order: Spadro, Lemon,
Puenta, Monte and Savanna.

Sail Gabriel. This is the site of the famous Mission of Sau Gabriel, or, to
give it the full honors of its stately Spanish title, "El Mission de San Gabriel
Arcangel." The Mission was founded September 8, 1771, and was moved from
the original site to its present position in 1775. The mission church is plainly to
be seen from the car windows to our right, just after the station has been passed,
and is a most interesting relic of what in the new world may be called antiquity,
having been erected, in 1804, of material imported from the mother country, Spain.

Beyond San Gabriel are the suburban stations to Los Angeles, of Alhambra,
Shorb and Aurant. The handsome suburban villas which dot the landscape on
each hand rapidly increase in number as the city is approached, and soon we are
rolling along between continuous rows of houses, and finally come to a stop at the
Southern Pacific Railroad's depot, in Los Angeles.

The trip from Los Angeles to Santa Monica,
one of the famous bathing resorts of the Pacific

the Pacific.

A charming Sea Shore
Watering Place.

coast, is not only justified by what one finds at the
end of his journey, but also by the pleasures

SANTA MONICA.

The

„ , enjoyed en route. The Los Angeles & Independ-

Long Branch

ence Railroad runs four trains to the beach each

day — a distance of sixteen miles; and on Sunday

the exodus to this famed seaside resort is some-
thing extraordinary. For three or four miles after
leaving the station, we pass through suburbs of
Los Angeles. Handsome villa residences, sur-
rounded by beautiful and most attractive grounds,

are to be seen on every side. At last, reaching the open country, we pass through
a constant succession of vineyards and fruit orchards, until the near presence of the
ocean is made known by refreshing saline breezes and the occurrence of sand dunes
and salt marshes. The train stops at a handsome depot, beyond which extends a
large, well-kept and beautiful park. It is difficult for one accustomed to the

198 OVER THE RANGE

varying seasons of the lands across the mountains to comprehend the fact that this
beautiful park, with its luxuriance of sub-tropical vegetation", its affluence of
delicate and vari-tinted flowers, is never less verdant, less brilliant or less attrac-
tive than it is now. It is not easy to grasp the fact that all the year round, equally
as comfortably on the first of January as on the first of June, one can sport among

; II -'Hi!

119

the combing billows that come rolling in across the blue, serene Pacific. The
attractions of Santa Monica are manifold, — beach-driving, surf-bathing, fishing,
boating, yachting, are the sea- ward delights; while on the shore are all the charms
which nature has so opulently spread for the pleasure of those who visit this
favored spot, together with all the ingenious devices invented by man for amuse-
ment and relaxation. Of course, it goes without saying that there is a magnificent
beach hotel, whose broad verandas face the sea, and whose appointments are com-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 199

plete in all respects; also, of course, there are bath-houses of ample accommoda-
tions.

There are many points of scenic interest within easy-driving distance of Santa
Monica. One of the most charming is that to Santa Monica cafion and Manville
Glen, a spot made cool and inviting by ancient forest trees and a rippling brook,
all embraced by rugged mountain surroundings. This is a favorite camping
ground, where pleasure and health seekers pitch their tents and spend months in
the calm enjoyment of this sylvan retreat. Santa Monica is a great health resort,
and experience has proved its excellence in this regard. It possesses, the year
round, one of the most enjoyable and healthy climates in the world, being from
ten to fifteen degrees cooler than Los Angeles and the interior country in summer,
and warmer in winter. There is a magnificent driving beach stretching away for
fifteen miles, good sea fishing, an abundance of water fowl in the neighboring
lagoons, and game in the mountains a few miles distant. There is a capacious,
deep-water roadstead, with good anchorage, where vessels may lie in safety the
greater portion of the year. The climate of Santa Monica is worthy of some-
what extended notice. In a general way we can sum up the climatic conditions of
the Southern California coast as follows: So far as the amount of rainfall is con-
cerned throughout Southern California, the rainy season simply signifies that
during that period, exclusively, not exceeding 18 inches may fall. The average
annual rainfall at San Diego is only 10.43 inches. Following up the coast to San
Francisco, it increases at the rate of about 2 inches for every 100 miles. Santa
Monica receives about 13 inches, Santa Barbara 15 inches, Monterey 17 inches,
and San Francisco 21 inches. The Coast Range of mountains, rising to an
elevation of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, rob; the ocean rain-freighted clouds of all their
precious burden before reaching the interior plains and valleys. At Fort Yuma, on
the Colorado River and Desert, the mean annual rainfall is only 2.54 inches; amon^
the little valleys extending from San Diego to the San Jacinto Mountains, from
7 to 9 inches; in the valley of San Bernardino, and at Colton, Riverside and
Cocamongo, 10 inches; advancing toward the coast, Spadra and El Monte receive
about ii inches; and Los Angeles, situated 20 miles from the ocean, about 14
inches. Crossing the San Bernardino Mountains to the Mojave Plains, the yearly
rainfall is only from 3 to 4 inches, and from thence up the San Joaquin Valley
as far as Goshen, in latitude 36 degrees, it ranges from 3 to 6 inches; from thence,
northward, it increases to 15.10 at Stockton and 18.23 at Sacramento. Taking it
all in all, Santa Monica is a place ^of great interest. We have said nothing about
the town so far, but must not neglect to state that there is a town, and a very
pretty one at that. It is situated on the level mesa, which stretches back landward
from the brink of the natural sea wall, from whose foot extends the level beach
outward to the ocean rim. The residences are tasteful, many of them elegant,
the business blocks substantial, and every element of comfort and convenience for
the health or pleasure seeker can be found here. For further information concern-
ing this resort, the reader is referred to the Addenda.

.Long" Beacll. We have already described the greater portion of the trip
from Los Angeles to Long Beach in that portion of this book devoted to the jour-
ney from Los Angeles to San Pedro. We follow the same line in our excursion
to the Beach as far as the Junction, at which point our train takes the line to the
Jeft, and rolling along through a level country, encroached upon here and there by
the salt marshes of the ocean, but passing many fertile and attractive spots, soon
reaches Long Beach, the goal of our journey. This popular resort is only
twenty five miles distant from Los Angeles, and can be reached in an hour's ride

200

OVER THE RANGE

from the city. A fine hotel has been built here, which overlooks the ocean and tht.
beach. Surf-bathing may be enjoyed here the year round, and the accommoda-
tions are complete in every respect. The beach itself is one of the greatest attrac-
tions of the place. The sands are left hard and compact by the retiring tide, and
the drive along the margin of the ocean is undoubtedly the finest to be found any-
where on the California coast. Long Beach has a wharf which extends a distance
of 750 feet in the ocean, reaching water deep enough to float vessels of the
heaviest tonnage by its side. Long Beach has already become a resort of great
popularity, and the excellence of its beach, its attractive scenery and fine hotel
combine to render this popularity greater every day. For further information con-
"erning this resort, the reader is referred to the Addenda

CALIFORNIA'S MAMMOTH GRAPE VINE.

SAUNTERINGS AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.

FTER enjoying the delights of Southern California, the tourist can
return to San Francisco from Los Angeles over the same route by
which the southward journey was made, or he can take steamer at
Santa Barbara or San Pedro, and have the pleasure of a delightful
coast voyage. Having once more established headquarters in the
metropolis, he will be ready to make excursions to the points of interest adjacent
to the city.

Sail Francisco to Monterey. It was a bright, genial California
day. when we took the cars of the Northern Division of the Southern Pacific Rail-
road, at the station opposite the immense brick building at the corner of Fourth
and Townsend streets, in which are the general offices of this great railroad com-
pany. We were bound for Monterey, famous for its bathing and its Rosamond's
Bower — the world-renowned Hotel del Monte. Our course is southward through
the city for a distance of four miles. Two miles from the station are the machine
shops of the railroad company. Valencia street station is reached in another mile;
here the cable line through the center of the city to Oakland Pier crosses the
track. Beyond this station the suburbs of the city are entered. On the right,
occupying an elevated position, is the Industrial School building. Bernal is
passed, and numbers of market-gardens, with an intricate and interesting system of
terraces and irrigating ditches, pipes and flumes. Holy Cross Cemetery is seen to
our left, then Coloma, Ocean View and Baden come next and then we approach
quite near the shore of San Francisco Bay, reaching this point by means of a
sharply descending grade.

San Bruno. Here are the rifle ranges of the shooting club?, situated on
the shore of the bay; and here also is a large hotel, a popular resort for the sports-
men who congregate at this place. (Population, 50. Distance from San Francisco,
14 miles. Elevation, 15 feet.)

Millbrae. This is the station for the country-seat of Mr. D. O. Mills,
president of the Bank of California, and his palatial residence can be seen about
half a mile distant to the right, characterized by two lofty towers. Just beyond
the station is the Millbrae Dairy, with a multitude of buildings showing the
great extent of this enterprise. Handsome residences can be seen on the right, the
left side being next the bay, and given over to meadow lands and cultivated fields,
diversified by occasional groves. (Population, 100. Distance from San Francisco,
17 miles. Elevation, 8 feet.)

Fair Oaks. This station is the site of most attractive groves of live oaks,
from which it takes its name. (Distance from San Francisco, 31 miles.)

San MateO. Surrounding San Mateo are a number of the most elegant
country-seats in California. Wealth has concentrated its forces here, and every-
thing that money can do, when employed unstintedly and intelligently, has been
done to beautify the scene. The art of the landscape gardener has here been
exercised to its fullest extent, and the grounds which surround these palaces of
San Franciscan millionaires are bewildering visions of arboreal and floral beauty.
As we advance after leaving the station, the race track is passed on the right, also
the Young Ladies Seminary. The bay is on the left. Groves of oak, eucalyptus

201

OLD MISSION CHURCH -MONTEREV.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

203

trees and endless orchards stretch away to the right as far as vision can reach.
Four miles beyond San Mateo is Belmont, the station for the country-seat of the
late banker king, John Ralston, which is one of the most noted country residences
near San Francisco, and during the life of its owner it was the scene of a most
generous and lavish hospitality. The statistics of San Mateo are as follows:

(Population, 950.
Distance from San
Francisco, 21 miles.
Elevation 22 feet.)

Redwood.
This town is the
county-seat of San
Mateo county, and
derives its name from
the proximity of
extensive redwood
forests to the west-
ward. Great quan-
tities of redwood
lumber, firewood and
bark are shipped from
this station. Arte-
sian wells furnish
water for the town,
which is well built
and supplied with all
of the modern con-
veniences. The trib-
utary industries, in
addition to lumber-
ing, are fruit raising
and agriculture.
(Population, 1,500.
Distance from San
Francisco, 28 miles.
Elevation, 9 feet.)

Menlo Park is
noted as the residence
of a large number of
San Francisco's most
wealthy business men
and gentlemen of
leisure. It is a bower
of beauty in the
heart of umbrageous
groves, made still

PASOROBLES

more lovely and attractive by flowers of every hue and a generous abundance of
ornamental shrubs and trailing vines. It goes without saying that all that the genius
of the architect can devise has been done to make the country residences equal
in beauty with their surroundings. (Population, 400. Distance from San Fran-
cisco, 32 miles. Elevation, 64 feet.)

204 OVER THE RANGE

Beyond Menlo Park, on our right, is the stock farm of Senator Leland Stan-
ford, president of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company. The farm embraces
five hundred acres, and here have been bred blooded stock, the finest of any on the
Pacific coast.

Leland Stanford, Jr., University. The site of this university,
which has an endowment of $20,000,000, and is a monument of parental affection,
is Palo Alto, near Mayfield, two miles beyond Menlo Park. There are 4,291 acres
of land in the grounds belonging to the university estate.

Alviso. This station is at the head of San Francisco Bay, and from this
point great quantities of fruit, especially of the smaller varieties, are shipped by
boat to San Francisco. (Population, no. Distance from San Francisco, 38 miles.
Elevation, 8 feet.)

San til Clara was founded by the Jesuits in 1774, and has for its site a
most beautiful region, being near the centre of the fertile Santa Clara Valley.
The climate is noted for its healthfulness and equability. This valley is one of the
best wheat regions in the state, and is also noted for the abundance and fine
quality of its fruit. Santa Clara and San Jose are twin cities, being only three
miles apart.

From San Jose, the Alameda, a broad and famous avenue lined with ancient
willows, leads to the old town of Santa Clara, four miles distant. The Mission of
Santa Clara was founded by Father Pena, in 1777, and the old adobe walls are
si ill crumbling away. Twelve miles by stage takes us to the famous New Almedan
quicksilver mines, which furnish half the quicksilver the world produces, and gives
employment to several hundred miners. The mountains are picturesque, easily
reached, abound in trout and game, and contain many health and pleasure resorts,
besides presenting every attraction to camping parties. (Population, 3,000. Dis-
tance from San Francisco, 44 miles. Elevation, 75 feet.)

The metropolis of the Santa Clara Valley is
San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara county,
and the Garden City of the Pacific Coast. It is a
progressive and rapidly growing city, with a popula-
tion of 25,000. It is fifty miles distant from San
Francisco, with which it has rapid and convenient
communication by three lines of railroad, operated

SAN JOSE.

Metropolis of Santa
Clara Valley.

The Garden City of the
Pacific Coast.

by the Southern Pacific Company, giving trains
either way at all times of day, tickets being inter-
changeable on all the routes. It is also convenient
to the most charming seaside resorts in the world,

Santa Cruz and Monterey, and two special excursion trains are run to these places
weekly. The beautiful surroundings and delightful climate of the valley already
briefly alluded to, its many elegant and costly homes, its shaded streets and
avenues literally embowered in trees of perpetual verdure, and the many social
and other advantages which wealth and culture have bestowed, make San Jose the
place for an ideal home.

There are twenty three churches in San Jose, and its educational facilities are
unsurpassed. The five public schools are not excelled in the state, and a high
school with an advanced curriculum crowns the system. There are here, besides,
some of the best known educational institutions on the Pacific Coast. The
University of the Pacific is a Methodist institution of high rank; the State
Normal School and the College of Notre Dame are centrally located, and at Santa
Clara, three miles distant, is the Santa Clara College, an institution located on the

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

205

site of the old Santa Clara Mission. At Palo Alto, a few miles to the northwest,
are being erected the buildings of the Leland Stanford, Jr., University, one of the
grandest educational institutions of the world, having an endowment of $20,000,000.
There are also, in and about San Jose, several other minor educational institutions.
Besides the vast and only partial developed resources of the Santa Clara and three
small but fertile tributary valleys, San Jose has many industries as a basis for her

prosperity. Recent experiment has shown that the Santa Clara Valley is one of
the most favorable regions in the world for the propagation of the silk worm, and
the infant silk industry is already represented by a manufactory of dress silks.
There are four large fruit canneries, three glove factories, two flouring mills, a
large woolen mill, and a great number of other industries. Four miles away are
the great Lick paper mills. (Population, 25,000. Distance from San Francisco,
50 miles. Elevation, 86 feet.)

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 207

The Lick Observatory. Throughout this region are many points and
features of interest. First in importance is the great Lick Observatory, whose
dome glistens in the sunlight on the top of Mount Hamilton, twenty-six miles
away, and at an altitude of 4,443 feet. Here is now in place the most powerful
telescope in the world. For this observatory the late James Lick bequeathed
$700,000, and the property now belongs to the University of California. Daily
stages run to the summit over a magnificent winding road, which cost Santa Clara
county $100,000. From the summit, on a clear day, the view is one of indescrib-
able beauty and grandeur. The great dome of the observatory can be plainly seen
to the left, from the windows of the train, after San Jose has been left behind.
Two delightful side trips from San Jose are those to Los Gatos and Santa Cruz.

LOS OiltOS. Nine miles from San Jose, on the direct narrow gauge line to
Santa Cruz, lies Los Gatos, a thriving town of 2,000 inhabitants, which nestles
amid picturesque surroundings, on the eastern slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
It is within the Santa Clara Valley, partaking of all the material and climatic
blessings of that lovely region; but it also lies within the thermal, or warm, belt,
and so enjoys an added advantage and attraction. This thermal belt is an interest-
ing phenomenon, and is observed in all the foot hills of the bay region. It is due
to the fact that when the cooler airs of night flow into the broad valley below,
sometimes lowering the temperature until frost is formed, the warm air rises and
rests at a higher altitude, preserving in a wide strip of country along the mountain
sides a higher temperature at night and a more equable climate than is found in
the valley below. About Los Gatos, the strip of country so affected is six miles in
width. The change is quickly noted in a drive from San Jose to Los Gatos in the
cool of the evening. This condition gives to Los Gatos a truly Arcadian air that
is a perpetual delight to the visitor or resident. It is this which makes the success-
ful cultivation of the orange, lemon and other citrus fruits possible here. The soil
here is as rich and fertile as in any portion of the valley, and this with the perfect
climate, pure and balmy airs, and the ever present beauty and abundance which
has followed the efforts of labor and capital, make of this particular region a veri-
table Eden.

The country about Los Gatos is noted for its fruit, and the whole slope is
covered with profitable vineyards and orchards, wherein plums, peaches, prunes,
apricots, pears, apples, olives, figs, cherries, oranges, lemons and other fruits
attain a rare perfection. English walnuts are extensively raised, and the largest
almond orchard in the world is located here. Owing to its proximity to San
Francisco, and its unequaled attractions as a place of residence, Los Gatos has
become the suburban residence place of a number of San Francisco men of wealth,
and a special suburban train is run to the town. (Population, 2,000. Distance from
San Francisco, 55 miles. Elevation, 400 feet.)

One of the loveliest cities of California is that
of Santa Cruz. Occupying a charming site on the
seashore at the north end of the crescent-shaped bay

SANTA CRUZ.

The Newport of the
Pacific Coast.

Health and Pleasure
Resort.

of Monterey, it is at the mouth of the San Lorenzo
river, and recedes from a beautiful beach, extending
to a broad plateau and two terraces rising above it,
surrounded by protecting hills.

Santa Cruz is the most popular and fashionable
seaside resort in the state, and is termed the New-
port of the Pacific Coast. During the summer
season people flock to this beautiful city by the thousands, especially from

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 209

the cities; and during the "season," the population is increased to ten or
twelve thousand. Its bathing is its pride and its glory, and with its lovely beach
of clean, white sand, its fine bath houses, and its safe and delightful waters, its
attractions in this line are unequaled. While the crowds are greatest during the
vacation season, between May and September, the bathing is delightful the whole
year icund. Excursion trains are run to this place from San Francisco every
Saturday and Sunday.

The place itself has all the features of a modern progressive city, among which
may be mentioned electric lights, gas, fine water system, fire department, street
cars, free library, telephones, three daily and two weekly papers, two banks, hand-
some public buildings, fine schools and numerous churches. It has magnificent
streets, many being paved with bituminous rock, and its sidewalks are exceptionally
good. Its great number of cosy and attractive homes are among iis chief features.

The climate of Santa Cruz and surrounding country is unsurpassed by that of
any other part of the state. It is remarkably equable, the average temperature for
winter being 52 degrees, and for summer 62 degrees. The difference between the
extremes of the year is always small. Epidemics are unknown, and health and
vigor is imparted to invalids, as well as to the strong. Rare roses, and other
blooms which in the East are hot-house plants, are culled from gardens every week
in the year.

In the mountains and valleys about Santa Cruz, there is an almost endless
array of attractions. The mountains are exceedingly picturesque, abound in trout
and game, offer great attractions to the camper, are full of beautiful canons and
nooks, and the views to be obtained are of surpassing beauty and grandeur. Ben
Lomond is the highest peak, and is reached by four delightful routes. Five miles
from Santa Cruz is a famous group of redwoods, known as the " Big Trees." The
largest is 300 feet in height and 60 feet in circumference. There are several
valleys of great beauty and fertility, the most noted being the Pajaro Valley. In
the valleys and on the mountain slopes fruits of all kinds are extensively grown,
with as great success as anywhere in the state, and general farming is easy and
profitable. The dairying interests are extensive, and the forests are still large and
dense. The county is the second in the state in manufactures. This is a region of
flowers and perpetual summer, with every attraction for residence, and offering
great inducements for investments. (Population, 7,000. Distance from San
Francisco, So miles. Elevation, 15 feet.)

Castroville. Resuming our journey at San Jose for Monterey, we pass
through an interesting and fertile country until Castroville is reached. From this
point a branch extends down to Monterey, the main line running to Templeton.
Around Castroville is one of the greatest wheat growing regions of California.
The ordinary yield is from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, though as high as 102
bushels have been grown here — the largest yield on record. (Population, 600.
Distance from San Francisco, no miles. Elevation, 17 feet.)

From Castroville we follow the curving shore of the Bay of Monterey; at
times within a short distance of the shore, and at others somewhat farther inland.
Sand dunes and salt marshes testify to the nearness of the ocean.

Del Moilte. In the heart of a lovely grove the train stops at a tasteful
rustic pavilion, which is the station. Broad, graveled roads sweep up to the
station in graceful curves and here stand waiting richly appointed four-horse
carriages, in which guests for the famous Hotel del Monte are conveyed to their
destination. Glimpses of the hotel to the left can be caught through the interstices
of the trees; while vines and shrubs and flowers grow everywhere in studied and

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 211

^.ustic confusion. The drive to the hotel along the broad, tree lined avenues,
shaded by immemorial and stately live oaks, through which vistas of sylvan beauty
can be seen, gives one a foretaste of the charms of this one of the most charming
places in the world.

_ The hotel is first seen through a vista of trees.

and, iu its beautiful embcwerment of foliage and
flowers, resembles some rich private home in the

HOTEL DEL MONTE.

A Palace of Delight.

midst of a broad park. This impression is height-
ened when the broader extent of avenues, lawns
and flower-bordered walks come into view. The
gardener's art has turned many acres into a choice
conservatory, where the richest flowers blossom in
profusion. Here and there are swings, croquet
grounds, an archery, lawn-tennis courts, and bins
of fine beach sand — the latter being intended for the use and amusement
of the children, who can not await the bathing hour for the daily visit to
the beach. The use of all these, as well as of the ladies' billiard saloon, is free to
guests. In all directions there are se its for loungers. Through a vista formed
by the umbrageous oaks and pines, the huge, bulbous forms of a Varied family of
cacti are seen. In another place is a bewildering maze. Everywhere flowers and
rare plants abound, and every avenue and pathway is bordered by intricate floral
devices. In any direction the eye may turn are fresh visions of beauty. In the
fall of 1883 a great improvement was consummated in the introduction of an
abundant supply of pure, soft water from the Carmel river. Extensive water
works were constructed at an expense of over half a million dollars. The supply not
only meets every requirement of the hotel, but also feeds the great fountain in the
lake. The Del Monte Bathing Pavilion is situated on the beach, about eight
minutes' walk from the hotel, and is one of the largest and most complete establish-
ments of the kind in the world. It is seventy feet wide by one hundred and seventy
long. There are four tanks of about thirty-six feet wide by fifty feet long. The
water in t ese tanks ranges in temperature from cold up to warm, and the bather
can take his choice. The heating is done by steam, and the water is daily changed.
The pavilion contains two hundred and ten dressing-rooms, one half of which
is set apart for the use of ladies. Each of the latter is fitted up with a fresh water
shower bath, while on the gentlemen's side fourteen shower baths serve for all.
The pavilion and everything connected with it is kept scrupulously clean, and
always presents a pleasing appearance. When filled with bathers and spectators,
it presents a spectacle which, in point of animation and interest, would be hard
to surpass. Outside of this pavilion is a beautiful sandy beach, on which surf-
bathing may be indulged. An adjunct of the Hotel del Monte is its 18 mile
drive, over a splendidly-kept macadamized road, by way of Monterey, Pacific
Grove, Cypress Grove, Carmel Bay, and the old Mission Church. The reader will
remember the sensation which was created several years ago by the burning of the
Hotel del Monte. From its ruins there has arisen a new Del Monte — larger, more
beautiful and complete than the old one. The new Del Monte is in its main front
and general style of architecture an exact copy of the old Del Monte, which was
universally pronounced, by thousands of famous visitors from all coun'ries, to have
been the most graceful and elegant building of its class in the world. The new
building, by increasing and extending its annexes, has nearly double the accommoda-
tions of the old one. These annexes are connected together by two arcades of
glass and iron, three stories in height, which virtually makes the two annexes one.

INSIDE AND OUTSIDE HEADERS — DEL MONTE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

213

Being tally incrosed, and yet light as day, the guest experiences no inconvenience
of any kind in walking through them; on the contrary, the two arcades make
delightful little promenading places. The dining-room is 162 by 66 feet, nearly
double the size of the old one. and will comfortably seat 500 people at once. ' The
park grounds surrounding the Del Monte have no equal on this coast, and it
is a mere question of time when they will have no superior anywhere. Nature
endowed them with prodigal liberality, and the owners are supplementing nature's
efforts with an equally prodigal expenditure of art. Croquet plats, an archery
ground swings, lawn tennis grounds, choice flowers, shrubs, trees, beautiful
walks, and in short, everything which an experienced landscape gardener's artistic
eye can suggest, is being done for the improvement of this favored spot.

Monterey. This quaint and romantic old town, the capital of California
when the territory was acquired by the United States, and the place where
Fremont first raised the stars and stripes and took formal possession of the
country, is one of the most interesting places to visit in California. Monterey is
situated on the lovely bay of the same name, 125 miles from San Francisco by the
Southern Pacific Railroad, and can be reached in 3^ hours by taking the fast
Monterey train, leaving the city at 3.33 P. M. This is the fastest train on the
Pacific Coast and one of the most elegant in equipment in the world. There is
probably no place upon the Pacific Coast so replete with natural charms as
Monterey. Its exquisite beauty and variety of scenery is diversified with ocean,
bay, lake and streaml-t; mountain, hill and valley; and groves of oak, cypress,
spruce, pine and other trees. The mountain views are very beautiful, particularly
the Gabilan and Santa Cruz spurs. The Bay of Monterey is a magnificent sheet of
water, and is twenty-eight miles from point to point. It is delightfully adapted to
boating and yachting; and many kinds of fish may be taken at all seasons of the
year. For bathing purposes the beach is all that could be desired — one long, bold
sweep of wide, gently sloping, clean, white sands — the very perfection of a
bathing beach; and so safe that children may play and bathe upon it with entire
security. There are also great varieties of sea-mosses, shells, pebbles and agates,
scattered here and there along the rim of the bay, fringed, as it is at all times, with
the creamy ripple of the surf. (Population, 2,300. Distance from San Francisco,
125 miles. Elevation, 5 feet.)

Pacific Grove, a short distance 0from Monterey, is to the Pacific Coast
what Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard and Ocean Grove, are to the Atlantic sea-side
resorts, except that the Pacific Grove retreat has as equable a temperature as
Monterey itself, and is kept open all the year round. It is delightfully situated on
the beautiful Bay of Monterey, less than two miles from the old town, and in
loveliness of location cannot be excelled, its graceful pines extending to the water's
edge.

YOSEMITE VALLEY.

TO THE YOSEMITE.

O one who visits San Francisco can afford to return home without
seeing nature's great temple of wonders — the Yosemite. The way
thither has been greatly smoothed by the Southern Pacific Railroad,
and each succeeding year sees improvements in this direction.
What was formerly an undertaking of considerable magnitude and
difficulty, has now become an easy journey, and one fraught with pleasure in the
taking It is only a vacation jaunt, requiring four days to make the round trip.
The valley is 259 miles from San Francisco, 178 miles to Herende, on the
route already described in the trip to Los Angeles, thence 21 miles by rail to Ray-
mond, and 60 miles by stage to the valley. It is now all rail to the foot-hills of
the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where the traveler is transferred to the most
approved pattern of stages (or carriages, really), and is delightfully whirled up
into the Land of Wonders over an excellent road, through giant timber, across ice-
cold rivulets, and past cataracts which send their spray into the sunlight, embel
lished with the colors of the rainbow. Mr. Ben. C. Trueman, the veteran trav:ler
and writer of the Pacific Coast, speaks as follows concerning this wonderland:
" Some few years ago we visited the Yosemite in company with a gentleman who
had traveled largely, and who had written much of the scenic attractions of Europe,
Asia and America, and who exclaimed, as we reached ' Inspiration Point ': 'My
God! self-convicted as a spendthrift in words, the only terms applicable to this
spot I have wasted on minor scenes.' And it was, unfortunately, true, that
language failed to give adequate utterance to the emotion of my friend upon that
occasion, and his hitherto facile pen failed to perform its functions with its
characteristic felicity and brilliancy. This has been the case with many, however,
if not with all others; and, thus, the pre-eminent grandeur and magnificence of
the Yosemite remains, after all, untold. Indeed, its charms must really be seen
and felt; for it is an absolute fact, that neither pencil nor brush, nor photographic
process, can give them faithful protraiture."

The Yost mite Valley is about 150 miles, in an
almost easterly direction, from San Francisco and
nearly midway of the state, between the northern

YOSEMITE.

A Valley of Wonders.
The

and southern boundaries; it was for many years the
rendezvous, or permanent abiding place, of hostile

Indians, who had a legend for every point of in-
Climax of Grandeur

terest, whether of water or rock. The place was
and Beauty. -01 *

first seen in I&SQ bv a number of white men, who

had formed themselves into a military company to
punish or compel peace with bands of murderous Indians; it was taken
possession of in March, 1851, by an expedition under the command of Captain
Boling, which invaded the aboriginal stronghold, killed several of its defenders,
and either stampeded or compelled peace with the rest. The valley is some
15 miles long by about one-third of that distance in width, and is undoubtedly
the most wonderful combination of chasm and dome, cliff and canon mountain
and valley, river and waterfall, cataract and streamlet, winter and summer,

FALLS OF T.-.C

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 217

and sunshine and shadow, to be seen in the world — especially within a 'radius
of eight or ten miles. Among the most noted and majestic elevations, which
rise right up vertically, many of these seeming like hewn rock, are: El
Capitan, 3,300 feet above the floor of the valley; Cathedral Rock, 2,660 feet
above the valley; Three Brothers, 3,830 feet; The Sentinel, 3,043 feet, with
cascades of 3,000 feet fall, Washington Column, 1,875 feet; Dome and Royal
Arches, 3,568 feet, down which descends a cataract of 1,000 feet; The Half Dome,
4,737 feet; Cloud's Rest, 6, 150 feet; Glacier Point, 3,200; Sentinel Dome, 4,150;
Eagle Point, 4,200, and many others of greater or less altitudes. The most noted
waterfalls are the Yosemite, which first displays an unbroken descent 1,500 feet,
then 600 feet of partly hidden cataracts, and a final leap of 400 feet — 2,526 in all;
Bridal Veil, 900 feet; Vernal Falls, 400, and Nevada Falls, 600 feet. There are
many other points of interest, conspicuous among which are the Merced River,
Mirror Lake, and romantic drives and climbs without number. There are a
number of good hotels in the valley, and tourists are driven right up to their doors.
The best time for visiting the falls is from the first of April until the end of July;
but it is accessible until the snows of November close up its means of ingress and
egress for several months.

The Big Trees. Thirty-five miles from Raymond is the Wawona
Hotel (formerly Clark's) one of the most exquisite spots in the Sierra Nevada.
There is an abundance of game near by, such as bear, deer (in great plenty),
mountain quail, grouse and smaller game, while the adjacent streams abound in
trout. It is from this hotel that tourists make their pilgrimage to the Mariposa
Big Tree Grove, which is six miles, and is made in a carriage, and for which there
is no extra charge for those holding through tickets to and from the Yosemite
Valley. In this mighty grove there may be seen a large number of trees more
than 300 feet in height, and varying from 50 to 93 feet in circumference, according
to Professor Whitney's official measurement.

The Calaveras Grove, which was the first one discovered (by a hunter
named A. T. Dowd, in 1852), has a magnificent lot of mammoth trees, also piercing
the clouds at heights exceeding 300 feet, and measuring 80, 90 and 100 feet around
at the ground. Most of these have marble slabs containing the names of distin-
guished soldiers, navigators, statesmen, poets, travelers and authors. The
Calaveras Grove is 131 miles from San Frarwcisco by rail, and 44 by stage — 175
miles in all. The Mammoth Grove Hotel has lately been enlarged, and can now
accommodate one hundred guests. There is a post-office, express and telegraph
office at the hotel. It faces the grove, having the greater number of trees to the
left, looking from the veranda, and the Two Sentinels immediately in the front,
about two hundred yards to the eastward. The valley in which the hotel is
situated contains of the Sequoia trees, ninety-three, not including those of from one
to ten years' growth.

The sequoia is a represen-
tative of a family of tree?, re-
lated to the cypresses, which
has survived from a time
more ancient than almost
any other family of trees. Its nearest
relative is in Japan. The name was
given by the botanist, Asa Gray, in
honor of Sequoyah, the Cherokee
chieftain. Besides the S. gigantea,
there is still another species, the S.
sempetvirens, which exists in forests
along the seaward side of the Coast
Range from San Francisco bay north-
ward for over 100 miles. It is these
forests which furnish the celebrated
redwood lumber ; and an illustrated
article by Ernest Ingersoll, in Har-
per's Magazine for 1882, gives an
admirable account of the lumbering
operations by which these mighty trees
are utilized, and of the interesting
scenes in and about the region in which
they grow. Many specimens of the.
redwood rival their big cousins near
Yosemite in size, and the whole forest
will average 250 feet in height, where
full grown.

BIG TREES OF CALAVERAS.

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GREAT
NORTHWEST.

LONG reach of most interesting country lies between San Francisco
and Portland, Oregon. Seven hundred and sixty-eight miles inter-
vene between the two great cities, and it is our purpose to take the
reader with us on this journey. There are two routes by rail; and,
of course, the ocean highway is open to all who wish to go by
steamer. The rail routes are east of the Sacramento River to Tehama, and west
of the river to the same point, 125 miles from San Francisco, where the two lines
form a junction. The route generally taken by tourists is that east of the river;
and this is the route chosen for our journey. From San Francisco we return on the
Overland route (by which we entered the city) as far as Junction, eighteen miles
beyond Sacramento. Here we turn northward, leaving the main line behind us,
and are fairly embarked on our journey to the Great Northwest.

Lincoln is a small manufacturing town, where great quantities of pottery
and sewer pipe are made. (Population 600. Distance from San Francisco, 119
miles. Elevation, 167 feet.)

Passing through Sheridan, a village surrounded by grazing lands, we
come to

Wheatland. Fitly named, it being in the centre of a fine wheat region.
The town is well built, and has the usual complement of good business houses,
churches, schools, etc. (Population 600. Distance from San Francisco, 130 miles.
Elevation, 90 feet.)

The Yllba River. Leaving Wheatland we are soon crossing the bottom
lands of what the latest maps call the Bear River, but which "old timers " know as
the Yuba; a name which, it seems to us, should by all means be retained. The
Yuba is here a vagrant stream, inclined to " spread itself " entirely too much foi
the convenience and comfort of the farmers; hence, it has been confined within
great dykes, which extend as far as the eye can reach up and down the river. The
road crosses the bottoms on trestle work.

This thriving place is the leading town of
Northern California, the depot for t'he product of
Yuba and Sutler Counties, and is situated at the
head of navigation on Feather River and on the
right bank of the Yuba. It has a population of
6,000. It is known throughout California as beintf
the neatest built city in the State. Splendid busi-
ness blocks; fine residences; magnificent gardens,
where flowers bloom the year round; best of schools
and academies; eight churches; large manufactur-
ing interests; flour mills; finest woolen mill in the
State; fruit cannery; iron foundry, etc. The city is

lighted by gas and electricity. The water supply is considered the best in the
State. The trade of Marysville to-day is greater than any town north of Sacra-

2IQ

MARYSVILLE.

Flourishing-

Commercial City.

County Seat of Yuba

County.
Population, 6,000.

Distance from

SanFrancisco,143 Miles

Elevation, 66 Feet.

MARIPOSA * * I1W/I1 C

lA^ipos/v Dl& jp^g q^^-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 221

mento. It is the trade centre for a large country outside of Yuba County. It
enjoys the trade of all Yuba and Sutler, and part of Butte, Colusa, Sierra, Placer and
Nevada Counties. Two lines of railroad enter the town, and a third is now being
pushed forward. Ten trains a day enter and depart. Two steamers and several
barges ply on the river, carrying freight to and from San Francisco. It is one of
the terminal points on the railroad. In climate, Marysville can not be be excelled.
No extremes of heat and cold; but a pleasant, equable temperature, equal to, if not
the superior of, the climate of Italy. Epidemic diseases of any kind never obtain
a footing here; Marysville has been singularly free from such afflictions. With
the fast increasing tide of immigration which is now turning to California, and with
the new and varied industries which are now springing up here, as the producing
power of the lands are becoming known, Marysville will, in a short space of time,
no doubt, be one of the leading towns of California. Frosts are very rare, and
when they do occur, very little damage to vegetation results, owing to the great

SIR JOSEPH HOOKER OAK, CHICO VECINO.
29 Feet in Circumference

drynessof the atmosphere. The same characteristics also make life very enjoyable,
and render this section one of the healthiest in the State.

Oroville is situated on the Feather River, 28 miles from Marysville. It is
the northern terminus of the Northern California Railroad, which runs from
Marysville, 28 miles to the south. The town is well built, the business buildings
being of brick, and the residences are almost universally neat and handsome,
surrounded with lawns set with a wealth of flowers, palms and blooming orange
trees. The church and school facilities are all that could be desired. One daily
and two weekly papers are published. There is abundant water-power awaiting
the establishment of manufactories, and a flouring mill and a large sash and door
factory are now in operation. But the glory of Oroville is mainly in the region
about it. The western part of Butte County, near the Sacramento River, is
level, the eastern part includes the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
while the central portion consists of low foothills, gradually increasing in altitude,

222 OVER THE RANGE

as the mountains are neared. This strip of sloping foothills, twenty miles in
width, consists of a rich, gravelly soil, remarkably productive. The climate of this
region, which is known as the " Thermal Belt," is of peculiar salubrity, being
milder both in winter and summer than in the lower portion of the valley, and
resembling that of the most favored countries about the Mediterranean Sea. The
summer's heat is here tempered to an even mildness, and in the winter the forma-
tion of thin ice in the open air is of rare occurrence. Snow is a natural curiosity,
and outdoor work is uninterrupted the year round. The average rainfall is about
22 inches. Experiment has shown that the conditions of climate and soil make
this region the natural home of the orange, olive, lemon, fig and other semi-tropical
fruits, while all the known deciduous fruits, including the hardy apple, flourish and
yield in unsurpassed abundance. When, at the Northern California Citrus Fair,
held in January, 1886, Butte County was awarded the first premium, the people of
the county awoke to the fact that they lived in a fine orange-producing region,
and since then great numbers of orange orchards have been planted. Each
December since then a great citrus fair has been held at Oroville, and so
marked has been their success, and so wonderful their revelations and their
magnificence, that Oroville is rapidly becoming as noted as Riverside. While
citrus fruits made up the most important features of these fairs, all the products of
the county were also represented, and the Butte County Citrus Fairs are un-
doubtedly the greatest show of the fruits of the earth ever gathered together under
one roof, including the fruits of nearly all climes, and all produced in one county.
The country about Oroville is undoubtedly the greatest fruit-producing region in
the State, offering great inducements to settlers, while it is equally wealthy in a
great variety of other resources.

Returning to Marysville we resume our northward flight, the Sacramento
Valley being on our left, while the Valley of the Rio de Los Plumas, or, as it is now
popularly called, the Feather River Valley, is on our right. Following this course
we pass through Live Oak, Gridley, Biggs, Nelson, Dunham, and arrive at

g The largest town in Butte County, Chico,

situated on Chico Creek, five miles from the Sacra-
mento River, and on the line of the California &

An Ideal Residence Oregon Railroad. Chico is the centre of the finest

agricultural portion of the county — perhaps the

CHICO

Population, 6,OOO.

Distance
from San Francisco,

finest in the State. The famous " Rancho Chico
property of Gen. John Bidwell adjoins the town on
the north, the rich and varied fruits of which have

186 miles. attracted such marked attention at all fairs and

Elevation, 193 feet.

expositions throughout the United States. Chico
Creek is a clear and beautiful mountain stream, flow-
ing sufficient water all the year to supply power for Gen. Bidwell's large flour mill,
until its capacity was so enlarged as to require the supplemental aid of steam.
Steamers run on the Sacramento River to Chico Landing and points above, carry-
ing immense quantities of grain to the bay on barges. Chico is a beautiful city,
and its population is principally American, agriculture and its adjunct employ-
ments being the chief elements of its life. But it has also tributary to it a fine
mining region, up Butte Creek, and an immense lumber region to the east and
north In this latter there are five or six large mills at work. A V-flume comes
to the city from the mountains, in which the lumber is floated from the mills to the
town so rapidly that a few years ago a beam of timber was sawn in the mill, thirty
miles away, flumcd to Chico, drawn through the town to the water-works building,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

223

fitted for its purpose and wrought into the building, all within t.he working hours
of a single day. Chico has a regular town government, with police officers and an
excellent fire department, which owns two steam fire engines. It has gas and
water-works, and is supplied with electric light. There are two banks in flourishing
condition. Seven churches, representing as many denominations, adorn the city,
and two large and elegant public school build ngs and two private academies are
filled with children. The streets are wide, well kept and shaded. Very many
private residences are large and handsome, and the homes of the people all »./dicPte
intelligence and comfort.

Cllico VecillO. This is an attractive suburb of Chico, included within the
boundaries of the well known Rancho Chico.
There are one thousand acres in the town site,
the plat of which has been laid off in five-acre
tracts. Here there will soon be one of those
delightful fruit-raising colonies for which Cali-
fornia is becoming famous. From Chico to
Tehama we roll along through a fine fruit and
agricultural country, passing the stations of
Vina, Nord, Anita, Cana, Soto and Sesma.

Tehama is the junction of ihe Willows
Branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad with
the main line. It is situated in a good wheat-
growing country on the west bank of the Sac-
ramento River, and here irrigation is not found
necessary for the production of crops. Stock-
raising and lumbering are large tributary in-
dustries. (Population, 329. Distance from San
Francisco, 213 miles. Elevation, 222 feet.)

Seven miles beyond Tehama we pass
through Rawson, and five miles farther on reach
Reel Bluff, the county-seat of Tehama
County which is one of the most thriving towns
of the State. It is a growing town in one of
the richest sections, and it has an elevated and
sightly location. Its streets are wide and well
graded, lighted by electricity; and there is no
place in the United States better drained The
Sacramento River here is a clear, rapid stream,
lined with beautiful trees and vines. On all the
three other sides there are ravines or valleys
through which streams run, which give the

perfection of drainage. Its public and business buildings are fine archi-
tectural structures; and its private residences are nowhere excelled for taste,
elegance, and the beauty and the wealth of their floral surroundings. The streets
are lined with popular, elm, white maple, locust, acacia and pepper trees, which
will soon make a veritable forest city. There are also many fine residences.
Tehama County is the great grain-growing county of the State; 8,000,000
bushels of wheat and 2,500,000 bushels of barley have been harvested in one season
from its fertile lands Tehama has about 400,000 sheep, which produce 2,500,000
pounds of wool annually. The numbers of cattle, horses, mules and swine are large.
In this county the celebrated Vina Ranch is located, embracing 56,000 acres, a

ON THE RIO CHICO.

THE GOLDEN GATE.

225

princely property, which, through the unexampled generosity of Senator and Mrs.
Stanford, has become the heritage of the children and of the coming generations of
the Pacific Coast. (Population, 3,500. Distance from San Francisco, 225 miles.
Elevation, 307 feet.)

The grade is now steadily upward as we press onward in our journey. From
Red Bluff to Sissons, a distance of 113 miles, we make an ascent of 3,245 feet.

TWIN FALLS.

Through a broken country, and crossing a number of rapidly flowing creeks, we
pass through Hooker and Cottonwood (small stations) and arrive at

Anderson. Which is a beautiful and very lively town of 1,500 inhabitants,
on the line of the recently completed California & Oregon Railroad. It lies a mile
and a half from the Sacramento River, 8 miles south of Redding, and 222 miles
north of Sacramento. The town is attractively laid out, with wide, well shaded
streets, lined with cosy and beautiful homes. The leading hotel in the place is a
fine one, costing $20,000. There are fine schools; the usual churches: a fine roller
15

22? OVER THE RANGE

flouring mill; good, substantial brick business buildings; water works, furnishing
an abundant supply of pure water from the mountains; and a live weekly paper,
besides many other evidences of enterprise and progress. The semi-tropical
climate of the Sacramento Valley generally prevails in the region about Anderson,
which is noted for its healthfulness. The summers are rather warm, though dry,
and the mercury rarely reaches 105 degrees, 85 degrees being about the average.
The winter, or rainy season, is delightful, and resembles April or May in the
Eastern States. (Population, 750. Distance from San Francisco, 249 miles.
Elevation, 432 feet.)

Redding*. No town of Northern California has a more promising future,
and exhibits at the present time more enterprise, activity and rapidity of growth
than Redding, in the southwestern part of Shasta County, of which it is the
county-seat. It is at the upper end of the great Sacramento Valley. 169 miles
north of Sacramento, and is built on a plateau on the bank of the Sacramento
River, here a clear mountain stream which sweeps around the town to the east and
south. No town in the State has a more charming and picturesque location. The
brief history of Redding is one of rapid progress, and never has it been more
marked than now. Its population has increased from 500 in 1883 to over 2,oco at
the present time, and with the rapid development of the county, which will follow
the recent completion of the first railroad through this region, and the vast territory
that must remain tributary to Redding, extending in some directions a hundred
and fifty miles, a rapid and continued growth is assured. The city has water and
gas works, a great variety of manufactories, many important buildings, a fine
court house and jail in process of construction, two newspapers, good schools and
several churches. The river here affords fine water-power and the lumber interests
of the country tributary to Redding are immense. The future of this lively place
depends largely on the development of the country about it; and with the great
variety of soil, climate and products, the thousands of acres of cheap, unoccupied
lands that only await intelligent cultivation to yield great profits, and with the
other almost inexhaustible resources which the county possesses, there can be no
question on this point. During the past year the county has made rapid strides
many settlers have invested, building has amounted almost to a boom, new indus-
tries started, and thousands of acres of orchards and vineyards have been planted.
No part of California offers such inducements to the farmer, the laboring man, the
capitalist, or the home-seeker, as Shasta County. There is a delightful semi-
tropical climate in the valleys and plateaus of the south, and a gradual change is
noted as higher altitudes are reached, that of the mountains resembling the New
England States. The climate of the southern portion of the county is indicated
by the fact that orange trees flourish and bear abundantly. The county is noted
for the number and beauty of its clear, sparkling streams, which burst from the
mountains through wild, picturesque canons, and flow onward through small fertile
valleys of great beauty. In these mountain streams the finest trout-fishing in the
State is found. (Population, 2,500. Distance from San Francisco, 260 miles.
Elevation, 551 feet.)

Wild Scenery. After leaving Redding our course is directly toward
the Shasta Range of mountains, and the scenery grows in grandeur as we advance.
\Vithin a distance of 80 miles we cross the Sacramento River eighteen times, and
pass through just an even dozen of tunnels. Grander and grander grows the scene
as we advance. The roll of stations as given in the railroad time tables gives no
idea of the beauty which surrounds these villages, but as a matter of record we
will name them as follows: Middle Creek, Copley, Kennet, Morley, Elmore,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 227

Sinithson, Delta, Slatons, Gibson, Chromite, Sims, Castle Crag, Lower Soda
Springs, Chestnut, Dunsmuir, Upper Soda Springs, Cantara, Mott, McCloud and
Sisson. The Soda Springs mentioned above are of interest to the tourist and
health seeker, being medicinal in their qualities, and having good hotel accommo-
dations. The Lower Spring is two miles below Dunsmuir, and the Upper Spring
one mile above. Beyond Upper Soda Springs we pass through a tremendous
gorge, whose beetling crags tower above our heads, and before McCloud is reached
we circle the Big Bend of the Sacramento River, traveling over five miles to gain
an advance of half a mile; but it must be considered that we have also gained an
additional elevation, nearly six hundred feet.

__^^^^^^_^__^^^^^_ As we near Sisson, Mount Shasta, of which we

have obtained brief glimpses through the pines,
bursts into full view in all its sublime magnificence.
This noted snow capped peak, towers to the height
of 14,440 feet. It is an extinct volcano, and its

SHASTA.

The Monarch of the

Range.

Alt tude- 14 440 feet snows and glaciers feed hundreds of streams which
thread the wild region in every direction. Sisson is

above the Sea. & regular meal statiollj situated in Strawberry Val.

Local Elevation: ieyf one of the most beautiful vales of California.

10,885 feet. It is a new but rapidly growing town, with stores,

hotels, a weekly paper, a fine depot, and a round-
house and repair shops. Here is obtained the finest

view of Shasta, and it is the only convenient point from which the ascent can be
made. But few parties succeed in reaching the summit, and the attempt is only
made in midsummer and then with trusty guides. The feat is perilous and excit-
ing, but the view is grand beyond description. The region about Sisson is a
paradise for the sportsman and the lover of nature. Grizzly, black and cinnamon
bears abound; elk, deer and mountain sheep are plenty, as well as a great variety
of smaller game. The mountain streams teem with trout, and often the sport
loses its zest through the very abundance of the beauties. The McCloud and the
Pitt Rivers are the most noted streams, though others are equally attractive. The
McCloud runs through the most uninhabited and unexplored region on the coast.
No region in the State is so delightful for camping, and hundreds of parties go
there every year. At Sisson, camping and hunting parties can be provided with
complete outfits at moderate cost. The pioneer of Strawberry Valley is J. H.
Sisson, from whom the town derives its name. He knows the whole country
thoroughly, and has taken many parties to the summit of Shasta. His " tavern,"
with its quaintness, its great fireplace and its hospitable welcome, is in perfect
accord with the spirit of the tourist ^nd the surroundings, and enjoys a wide
reputation. As has been said, Sisson is situated at the foot of Mount Shasta, and
is noted for its magnificent scenic attractions. From Redding northward the
California & Oregon road is the scenic route of California; and at Sisson, at the
base cf Mount Shasta, 80 miles north of Redding, the acme of interest is reached.
While there are many places in California replete with beauty and grandeur, there
are none which, for infinite variety of scenery, wildness and abundance of every
thing to delight the sportsman, artist and tourist, can compare with the region
about Sisson. (Population, 250. Distance from San Francisco, 338 miles.
Elevation, 3,555 feet.)

Mllir's Peak. After leaving Sisson we circle the base of Muir's Peak,
locally known as " Black Butte," which rises to a perpendicular height of 3,000
feet above our heads. It is black, bare and desolate, — an extinct volcano, with

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 229

half a dozen craters in plain view. We are now among the mountains, and pass
in succession the stations of Igerrta, Edgewood, Gazelle, Grenada, Montague,
Snowden, Ager, Ilornbrook. Zuleka and Coles.

The State Line. Two miles beyond Coles station we cross the State
line, and, entering Oregon, begin the ascent of the Siskiyou Mountains. This
ascent is a wonder of railway engineering. The statistical facts concerning this
achievement may be condensed as follows:

Elevation at State Line 2,859 feet

" Coles Springs 3,775 "

" Tunnel No. 13 3,io8 "

" Tunnel No. 15 3 710 "

Tunnel No. i6._ 2,977 "

Length of Tunnel No. 13 4,160 '

The mathematician has the advantage here. He can tell exactly the f*ofs concern
ing this great work; but the descriptive writer strives in vain to convey to the
reader the beauty and grandeur of the scene. The southern slope of the range
is denuded of trees, while the northern side is covered with a dense growth of
pine.

Siskiyou Station. 1 his is the summit of the range, and the highest
point on the entire line, being 4,135 feet above the level of the sea. The mountain
view from this coign of vantage is indescribably magnificent. To the east is the
Cascade Range, extending to the north for full four hundred miles; to the northeast
is Mount Pitt while still farther on are Mounts Scott, Threlson and' Diamond
Peak, — monarchs of the Case ides. To the west are the peaks of the Siskiyou and
Coast Ranges; to the south are the Two Sisters, Mount Lassen, and above all
imperial Shasta rears his head. Lakes, rivers and valleys lie spread out before us
like a map; and, in a word, for variety, grandeur, beauty and extent, this view has
no equal on the continent.

Ashland. At the foot of the Siskiyou Range, on the eastern slope, is
situated this beautiful little town, in a delightful valley. The town was established
in 1850; and in 1887, on December 17, Mr. Charles Crocker, of San Francisco,
drove the last spike which completed the railroad connection between California
and Oregon. The town of Ashland has entered upon a season of great prosperity,
being the seat of the State Normal School, and having the White Sulphur Springs
within near proximity. It is a large shipping point for wheat, and also for fruit.
(Population, 2000. Distance from San Francisco, 431 miles. Elevation, 1,891
feet.)

Rolling along through the valley we pass Phoenix and Medford, prosperous
towns of moderate size.

Jacksonville is the county-seat of Jackson County, and is connected with
Medford, four miles distant, by stage. (Population, 1,200. Distance from San
Francisco, 450 miles. Elevation, 1,399 feet.)

Rogue River Valley. We are now in the Rogue River Valley, and are
following the stream in its downward course. The valley averages about three
miles in width, with high hills on each side, covered with a strong growth of
grass and in places heavily timbered. The products of this valley are berries, nuts
and fruit. Fishing and hunting can be found here of the best quality. The
stations which follow Medford, are: Gold Hill, Grant's Pass, Merlin, Aeta,
Almaden, Glendale, Riddles, Myrtle Creek, Oak Grove, Dillard and Greens

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 231

SCENIC

ATTRACTIONS.

A Panorama of

the
Grand and Beautiful

in Nature.

For a stretch of over one hundred and fifty
miles from Grant's Pass, the country presents a
wonderful panorama of grand and beautiful scenery.
Mountains are all around us. To the right the
Cascade Range, to the left the Coast Range.
Gorges before us! — canons behind us! Little
valleys of entrancing loveliness are crossed; spark-
ling streams abound, forests of oaks and pines, of
hemlocks and madrones are threaded; in a word,
the variety is infinite, the beauty indescribable.

Roseburg- is the county-seat of Douglas County. Through the town flow
the Umpqua River and Deer Creek, which furnish water-power and a plentiful
supply of pure water for domestic purposes. Agriculture, horticulture and
pastoral industries are tributary. (Population, 1,500. Distance from San Francisco,
574 miles. Elevation, 487 feet.)

The Valley of the Umpqua. This valley, situated between the
Coast Range of mountains and the Calapooias, is exceedingly fertile, being
especially adapted to agriculture and the growing of fruit. The valley ranks third
in size among those of Oregon, those of the Willamette and Umatilla being greater
in area. A historical interest attaches itself to the Umpqua Valley, for in its quiet
confines lie the remains of the brave soldier and public-spirited citizen, General
Joseph Lane. His grave is in a little churchyard, a mile from Roseburg. After
leaving Roseburg, the stations occur in the following order: Wilbur, Oakland,
Rice Hill. Youcalla, Drains and Comstocks.

Divide is on the water-shed between the waters of the Umpqua and
Williamette Rivers. Latham, Cottage Grove, Walkers, Creswell, Goshen and
Springfield are the succeeding stations.

Eugene is the county-seat of Lane County, situated on the right bank of
the Willamette River, and is a thriving, prosperous town. Here has been
established the University of Oregon, which is one of the leading educational
institutions of the State. The Willamette is navigable from Portland to this point
for steamers of light draught; but freight traffic is now carried mainly by the rail-
road. This is a fine agricultural and fruit country, and shipments of these
products from Eugene are large. (Population, 2,200. Distance from San
Francisco, 649 miles. Elevation, 455 feet.)

Beyond Eugene are Irving, Junction City, Harrisburg, Muddy, Halsey,
Shedds, Tangent and Albany Junction.

Albany, the county- seat of Linn County, is an enterprising, growing town.
For a country which eastern people consider so "new," this town has great
"antiquity," having been established in 1848. Here is located the Albany
College and other schools of excellent quality. The town has good business and
private buildings, water works, — in fact all of the modern improvements. (Popu-
lation, 3,000. Distance from San Francisco, 692 miles. Elevation, 240 feet.)

Millers, Jefferson, Marion and Turner are the stations passed after leaving
Albany before Salem is reached.

Salem is the State capital and the county-seat of Marion County. It is
situated on the left bank of the Willamette River, which furnishes unlimited water-
power. Here are located the State institutions, including the Insane Asylum, the
School for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, the Penitentiary and the Indian Train-
ing School. Steamers ply regularly between Portland and Salem, and the amount
of lumber shipped annually exceeds three million feet. The Capitol Building

232 OVER THE RANGE

occupies an entire block, and may be seen from the car windows, to our left, after
leaving the depot. It need not be said that Salem is a well-built, prosperous city,
for the fact that it is the State capital makes such a statement superfluous.
(Population, 6,000. Distance from San Francisco, 720 miles. Elevation, 190
feet.)

After we have left Salem we pass the State Fair grounds, two miles from the
city, and four miles farther on Chemawa is reached, which is the immediate site of
the Indian Training School. Beyond are the stations of Brooks, Woodburn,
Hubbard, Aurora, Barlow, Canby, New Era and Canema.

Oregon City is the county-seat of Clackamas County, and is noted for its
magnificent water-power, being located at the great falls of the Willamette River.
Here were constructed the canal and lock system which make the Willamette
navigable beyond the falls. This system cost half a million dollars. Oregon City
is a thriving town boasting all the modern improvements, and doing a large busi-
ness. (Population, 1,400. Distance from San Francisco, 575 miles. Elevation,
95 ^et.)

Beyond Oregon City we pass through the following stations: Clackamas,
Milwaukee, Wellsburg, Machine Shops and East Portland. These are really
suburbs of Portland, as the distance between Oregon City and Portland is only 15
miles.

This metropolitan city, with its population of
fifty thousand souls, sits on the west bank of the
Willamette River, twelve miles from its confluence
with the Columbia, and one hundred and fifteen
miles, by river, frorn the Pacific Ocean. The first

Achievements and

PORTLAND.

The Metropolis of the
Pacific Northwest.

settlers came here in 1843, and 'n
A City of Magnificent

ment was incorporated as a city. It is now the

metropolis of the Pacific Northwest, and the third
High Hopes.

richest city in the world, in proportion of the wealth

to per capita of population. On the east side of
the Willamette, directly opposite Portland, is the city of East Portland, and on the
same side, to the northward, around the bend of the river, the city of Albina,
both of which contain a population of about ten thousand souls, and are con-
nected with Portland by two bridges. Numerous ferry boats also ply on the river
between Portland and her trans-Willamette suburbs. Thus, there are clustered
here under three corporate names, a community of sixty thousand people, whose
business intermingles, and who are actively engaged in its diversified industries.

The favorable position which Portland occupies for an important commercial
city, can be best understood by gaining a knowledge of its location, relative to a
large area of very rich country. The Willamette Valley, at the foot of which
Portland is situated, contains four million acres of land, and its products are
abundant to furnish sustenance for over a million people. Most of this territory
is now under cultivation. Wheat has been the chief crop raised, but other cereals,
root crops and fruits are now occupying the attention of the farmers, and on
the slopes of the mountains that border the valley, stock raising and dairying
are found to be profitable industries. The finest flavored fruits in the world are
raised here — apples, pears, prunes, peaches, plums, small fruits, melons, etc. In
fact, all the products of the temperate zone can be successfully grown in the
Willamette Vailey. The surplus product of this fertile valley, of course, flows
through Portland, to which port it is transported by boats which ply on the
Willamette, and railroads which penetrate the country on each side of the river.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

233

The Columbia River, before piercing the Cascade Mountains, flows through and
drains a tract of country more than four times as large as the State of New York,
and with a soil of wonderful productiveness. The improveme >t of that vast region
is scarcely begun, yet the product has already grown beyond the facilities for
moving it, though they are great, and beyond all expectations. But the trans-
portation facilities are increas-
ing rapidly, and that trouble
will not last. Anything that
can be grown on fertile soil
in a mild climate is produced
in this basin in abundance, and
from Idaho, Washington Ter-
ritory and Oregon, a constant
stream flows to Portland.

The mines of Oregon, in-
cluding those of gold, silver,
iron, copper, etc., and the vast
mineral output of Montana,
Idaho and Washington con-
tribute an important amount to
the business of this commercial
metropolis. The timber pro-
duct is by no means inconsider-
able, large quantities of lumber
being annually turned out.
The most extensive salmon
fishing in the world, and the
general piscatorial indusr'y of
the Columbia and Willamette
Rivers, have their main springs
of capital in Portland. Situated
as she is, at the gateway to the
regions mentioned, the re-
sources of which are practically
illimitable and easily trans-
ported on the rivers that drain
them, being accessible to ocean
craft, and having a demand for
trade from across the sea, being
at a point of interchange of
foreign and domestic traffic,
having a situation favorable for
utilizing these various agencies
for promoting growth, Port-
land certainly possesses advantages of location equaled by few cities in the
world.

There are five lines of railroad centering in Portland. The Northern Pacific
runs north to Tacoma, thence east to St. Paul. It also connects, at Wallula
Junction, with the O. R. & N., making a shorter route from Portland to the East.
The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company has a line passing up the Columbia
River to Wallula Junction, and branching out into various feeders, built and in

CAPE HORN, COLUMBIA RIVER.

LOWER CAPE HORN, COLUMBIA RIVER.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 235

process of construction, ramifying the south-central portion of the great Inland
Empire. The lease of the O. R. & N. 10 the Union Pacific has been consummated,
and this no\v gives a direct trans-continental line under one management between
Portland and Omaha. The Southern Pacific Company has leased the Oregon
& California Railway, which has been completed, and this, besides affording a rail
route between Portland and San Francisco, gives a through line, under one
management, from Portland, via New Orleans, to New York. This road runs
southward through the Willamette Valley. Another line of the Oregon &
California starts from Portland, and, running up the west side of the river, forms
a valuable feeder, penetrating the heart of the garden of Oregon. This line
connects, at Corvallis, with the Oregon Pacific, extending westward to Yaquina
Bay, and will soon reach a rich but as yet undeveloped region in Eastern
Oregon. Then the Portland & Willamette Valley narrow gauge affords another
outlet for the valley through Portland. Thus, this city is made a terminus for three
trans-continental railway systems and has all the advantages of five local roads,
besides the water transportation on the Willamette and Columbia Rivers and the
Pacific Ocean. The Canadian Pacific is also competing for Portland business,
running a steamer between here and Vancouver, B. C., to connect with its China
line of steamers, and bidding eagerly for freight and passenger business between
Portland and the Eastern States. The Northern Pacific Terminal Company has
erected shops in Albina, at a cost of over $500,000, with a capacity for the
employment of a thousand men. The company owns nearly eight thousand feet of
water front. Besides the shops, there are large grain warehouses, coal bunkers,
and a dry dock, owned by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company.

On the Portland side of the river, about thirty acres of land have been pur-
chased for a site for union passenger and freight buildings, and for a freight yard.
The completion of the bridge over the Willamette, which the Oregon Railway &
Navigation Company has constructed, enables the improvements contemplated for
the Portland yard and buildings to be carried out. This bridge is a steel structure,
consisting of a draw span of three hundred and forty feet and a fixed span of
three hundred and twenty feet. It is a through bridge, with carriage way and foot-
walks above the railroad tracks, and connects Third Street, Portland, and Holla-
day Avenue, East Portland.

Modern Improvements. The streets of Portland are lighted by six
hundred incandescent and twenty four arc electric lights. The city owns its water
works system, on which $500,000 have been expended, and improvements necessi-
tating the expenditure of $125,000 are contemplated. In order to purchase the
water works plant from the private corporation which owned it, the city issued
five per cent, bonds to the amount of $500,000, which were readily sold at an
average price of $1.08, showing the confidence in the city's financial condition.
The city has thirty-two miles of water mains, and the pumping capacity of the
works is fifteen million gallons per day. The supply is obtained from the
Willamette River, about five miles up the stream. The average daily consumption
is five million gallons.

The Portland Paid Fire Department is an efficient organization, operating
inder the City Board of Fire Commissioners. The official report for 1887 shows
the value of real property and apparatus held in trust by the organization to be
$171,350.21. The total running expenses for the year were $58,927.69. There
are thirty-three electric fire alarm boxes, and the system is in excellent working
order. The numerical strength of the Department is ninety men. There are
twenty horses, seven engines, with their necessary adjuncts, and seven thousand

OVER THE RANGE

feet of rubber hose. The losses by fire during the year amounted to $84,173.72,
for which $80,311.62 were paid in insurance. A fireman's mutual relief association
is in operation in connection with tne Fire Department.

Manufacturing1. The manufacturing advantages of Portland and vicinity
are not utilized to an extent at all commensurate with their importance. There is
abundant raw material in Oregon, cheap and reliable water power, and generally
favorable conditions for the growth of varied manufacturing enter-
prises. The comparatively recent discovery of the resources of the
region must account for the small amount of manufacturing that is
done where circumstances are so favorable. People from the East,
accustomed to the closer and fuller development of their resources,
and alive to the advantages of manufacturing as near the source of
supply as possible, are surprised at the neglected opportunities
which they observe on the Pacific Slope, and particularly in and
i about the commercial centre of a region incalculably rich in the
elements that promote manufacturing prosperity.
Still, that branch of industry is well established, and
is constantly increasing in volume and importance.
(Population, 50,000. Distance from San Francisco,
772 miles.)

Picturesque Surroundings. Aside
from the advantages of its relative location,
Portland has a very admirable site for a beauti-
ful city. From the docks at the river's side, the
land gradually ascends to the west and south-
Vl west, finally breaking in elevated and pic-
turesque hills, upon which the residence
portion of the city is already encroaching.

These hills form an important feature
in the topography of the city. The
lower and more level part of the
town is occupied by business
houses and manufactories. The
heights are visible from almost
any point. They are
ascended by means
of roadways winding
alorg the hillsides,
affording mag-
pS;:;i nificent views

TORESTS ON THE COLUMBIA.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

23?

as the prospect unfolds. From the summit of Robinson's Hill, on a cleat
day, the sight is most grand and inspiring. Within a radius of hundred a
miles, which the eye sweeps from this elevated outlook, north, east and southeast,
five perpetually snow-clad mountain peaks are visible. The most prominent of
these is Mount Hood, which rests upon the long, bluish bank of the Cascade
Mountains, and rears its lofty summit to the sky. Its covering of snow and

ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER.

glaciers sparkles in the sunlight, and when suffused with the soft glow of the
setting sun, reflects the most delicate tints of purple, crimson and gold, giving it a
majestic splendor inspiring to the beholder. To the south is Mount Jefferson, and
to the north Mounts Adams, St. Helens and Rainier, the latter the loftiest peak of
the Cascade Mountain Range, all of them capped with snow and ice, and relieving
a landscape of charming beauty. Breaking through the ridge of the Cascades, the
great "River of the West," the Columbia, pours its mighty tide toward the sea.
The Willamette threads the broad valley to the south like a ribbon, its course being
visible for many miles and finally being lost among the farms and villages that dot its
banks. For further description of this city, the reader is referred to the Addenda.

Tacoma's commanding position among the
cities of Washington Territory has been earned
step by step by a struggle in which the odds were
against her. The general apprehension, justified
probably by the history of many cities and towns,
that in the West all one need to do is to stake off a
few lots, build a cabin or two, select a name, and a
city will grow up much after the fashion of vege-
tables in a garden, is in nowise true of Tacoma.
When Tacoma was established, other towns on Puget Sound had existed for many

TACOMA.

A City whose

Fame has become

International.

«• The City of Destiny.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 289

years, and naturally they did not extend any encouragement to a new town. Instead
of receiving from the beginning, as in the case of many cities of the West, the
exclusive support and encouragement of an extensive business district, Tacoma
found the older towns already in possession, and ready to contest every step taken
by the new claimant for public favor and support. Figuratively speaking, Tacoma's
first breath of life was a battle-cry, and although the cry was not at first very loud,
it was firm, full of confidence and pluck. The town did not remain long in its
swaddling clothes. Its voice gained in strength. At first Puget Sound only heard it.
Then it reached the ears of everybody in Washington Territory, and they were
pleased with it. The Pacific Northwest then realized that there was a new voice in
the business world and stopped to listen, and soon the entire Pacific Coast was
talking about it. Then the great and populous East heard Tacoma's voice, and
when it said "Come," thousands responded. Then England came thousands of
miles by sea, in great ships, to learn more about Tacoma, a city whose fame had
crossed the Atlantic. China and Japan sent tea-ships at this infant's demand, and
even far-off Australia heard it, and was so pleased that the ocean pathway between
Tacoma and that continent is marked by an ever-increasing fleet of ships going and
coming. Tacoma helps to feed the world; helps to build the world's houses; and
yet its voice is stronger than ever and is being used more than ever. The
thousands of people who listened and responded to Tacoma's invitation were not
disappointed. And Tacoma grew and flourished until its present commanding
position was reached.

From a town of only a few hundred people, Tacoma now has a population
estimated at 15,000. Its property has increased to a dozen times its value eight
years ago. Its business relations extend to all parts of the civilized world, a fact
which is true of no other city in Washington Territory. In railroads, shipping,
manufactories, and business generally, Tacoma's prosperity has been very great;
so great, indeed, that whereas it a few years ago was only a small and relatively
unimportant village, it is now a city, possessing all the characteristics and con-
veniences of a city.

Tacoma was originally planned on a large scale, and the expectations of th«
founders of the city, however sanguine they may have been, have doubtless been
more than realized at this time. Probably no one expected Tacoma to grow so
rapidly, to earn so speedily such extraordinary trade relations with the markets of
the world. The streets are wide and laid off with special relation t > convenience
and beauty. Pacific and Tacoma Avenues are without superiors for beauty and
length in the Northwest. These and other public highways are well graded, and
sidewalks are constructed of a substantial character.

The location of the Methodist University in Tacoma has given the city a
notable addition to its already large number of educalional institutions. The Tacoma
people subscribed a bonus of $75,000 to this great institution. The Annie Wright
Seminary, the Washington College, and the numerous public schools, speak more
than words can tell of the public spirit manifested by Tacoma people, of their ability
to meet every demand of a liberal and progressive population and of the existence
of a breadth of public sentiment which proves the stable character of the city's pro-
gress. The need of a street railway has for a long time been been a pressing one,
and the result is that now a well-constructed and equipped road, about three and
a half miles long, is in operation. It extends from the docks to the centre of the
city. Of the many church buildings, some possess architectural beauties equal to
those to be seen anywhere. Private residences of handsome architecture may be
seen in all parts of the city. The hotels number twenty, and yet they are not

PACIFIC AVENUE, TACOMA. 1877-

PACIFIC AVENUE, TACOMA. 1888.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 241

sufficient to accommodate the multitude of people who daily arrive in this flourish-
ing city. Tacoma has no indebtedness. This tells a volume itself.

The Northern Pacific Railroad Company has erected a magnificent brick
building for the offices of the company.

These features of Tacoma are worthy of special attention as evidencing the
solid character of the city's progress. They rebut every idea that Tacoma's
growth and the expansion of her industries are ' ' mushroomy " in character. The
city itself is the best commentary on the character of its resources. (Population,
I5,oco. Distance from San Francisco, 917 miles.)

The Climate of Puget Sound. The following extract from a recent
compilation so accurately sets forth the characteristics of this climate, that to
employ other words would add nothing to the facts contained in it:

The climate of the Puget Sound country is wholly unlike anything experienced
on the Atlantic Slope, or in the Mississippi Valley; or, indeed, anywhere on the
American continent except in the Pacific Northwest. The summers are cool and
the winters singularly mild. A temperature of 80° in midsummer is very rare, and
not often in winter does the mercury go much below the freezing point. The
following is the meteorological table for 1885, which is about an average year,
compiled from observations taken daily at 7 a. m., 2 p. m. and 9 p. m. A minute's
of it will show how remarkably free from trying extremes the climate is.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR 1885.

Tanuarv --

Lowest.
10°

Highest.
62°

Mean.
37. Q°

Monthly
Rainfall
in inches.

4-2O

February

-21

44. ^

4 l6

March

1,2

48 o

I OI

April . .

- — -- 3^

=;o 8

O.47

May

A*I

60 ^

2 80

June

C,7 O

O 4Q

Tulv

c r

66 4

o 26

August .

64.5

September

58 8

2.44

October

<1Q

51 4

2 47

November

•34

ic e

8 22

December -

41 4

6.1 j

Total rainfall in 1885 32.74

As suggested, if the above extract is carefully studied it will tell more than
many words of explanation.

Trade with South America and Mexico. The condition upon
which trade telations will be established with South American and Mexican Pacific
Coast points are of such a promising character that it will not be long until a most
valuable commerce will be carried on. The peculiar conditions which justify the
hope of establishing very extensive relations with that country are found in the
products of the countries. The purposes of this article will not admit of a minute
examination of these conditions, but any one who will examine the subject will
find that the products of Washington Territory supply what the South American
countries referred to do not have, and those countries produce that which will find
a ready market in the Northwest. Hard woods, tropical fruits, valuable ores and
minerals on the one hand, with soft woods, iron, grain, fish and many other of the
resources of the Northwest — these, any one can easily see, furnish all the con-
ditions upon which most extensive commercial relations may be established. The
16

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 243

relations will be those of exchange of products. Such conditions are especially
promising, as they will afford cargoes both going and coming.

Tacoma's commercial relations with the Pacific Coast are now so well known
that it is almost unnecessary to make reference to them at all, except to make this
array of evidence complete. Reference to the record of Tacoma's shipping, as set
forth already in this article, will show how extensive are Tacoma's relations with
San Francisco and other coast points.

The thoughtful man will reason that if Tacoma enjoys such extraordinary
advantages now, what will the future bring? He will then understand the peculiar
significance of the poetical phrase, " The City of Destiny."

A Magnificent Harbor. The general measure of Tacoma's apprecia-
tion of this most remarkable body of water would be expressed in miles rather than
particular instances. To say that there are saw mills at particular points, coal
bunkers at others wheat warehouses near by, magnificent docks elsewhere, various
harbor improvements and railroads, would certainly be very suggestive of what
Tacoma has accomplished in a few years. But to say that these improvements
extend along the water front for a distance of about six miles, gives a larger idea
of their extent.

These features of Tacoma's enterprise and prosperity have a special meaning.
They are not constructed simply as a matter of ornament. Business men do not do
things that way. Business methods are not fancy in their character. These
improvements indicate that demands exist and are being supplied. And Tacoma is
doing the supplying.

Terminal and Shipping Facilities. The fact that the Northern
Pacific Railroad has made Tacoma its terminal point, is of itself enough to satisfy
anyone, without further explanation, that the terminal and shipping facilities would
be commensurate with the importance of a great trans-continental railroad com.
pany's interests.

The immense docks at which railroad and ocean traffic unite, are so large and
involve so many distinct features, that it would be difficult to impart to anyone not
familiar with such improvements an adequate idea of their extent and importance.

It is not an uncommon sight to see lying along these immense docks, only
a few feet away from the railroad tracks, an ocean sailing-vessel, several ocean
steamships Alaska steamers, besides a host of smaller craft. This will suggest tha
character and extent of these docks. The Northern Pacific Company has immense
warehouses erected on these docks, and all the conveniences incident to the prompt,
careful and expeditious handling of freights. It is often a difficult matter for local
craft to secure dock accommodations, so crowded with steamers and sailing-vessels
do the docks become.

The conveniences are such that the handling of immense cargoes is accom-
plished with an ease and dispatch scarcely conceivable. The ships laden with tea
are drawn up within a few feet of the great warehouses, alongside of which are the
railroad switches. The San Francisco steamers also discharge their freight into
these warehouses Extensive additions have been made to these docks within the*
past year, to accommodate the ever-increasing demand for room, and more exten-
sions are in contemplation.

Trade with the Middle West. The trade with the Middle West and
in the Far East is made up of tea and lumber and shingles. In lumber and shingles
most promising trade relations have been established with the sections referred
to, and the trade in these products is constantly increasing in volume. The
excellence and durability of the cedar shingles manufactured in Tacoma ana

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 245

vicinity make them superior to any manufactured elsewhere, and large quantities
are now being shipped East. The qualities of Puget Sound lumber has made
it famous all over the world. Tacoma being the terminal point of that great trans-
continental artery of commerce the Northern Pacific Railroad, naturally enjoys the
results of such special advantages. It does not requite elaborate reasoning to
convince any man that the same conditions which gave rise to such trade will
increase its volume rapidly the longer the relations exist.

Tea Trade with the Orient. It is less than a year since the first tea
ship arrived in Tacoma from Yokahama. It was only a few months after the
completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company's Cascade branch. This
shows how quickly Oriental and American merchants realized the advantages
attending the shipping of tea to Tacoma. The great gain in time and reduction in
expense were the considerations which have brought to Tacoma such an important
branch of San Francisco trade. Two ships at this writing are on the ocean with
tea cargoes from the Orient to Tacoma. Is there need to expand on the signifi-
cance of these relations ? Is there need to repeat the fact that trade brings trade ?
Tea and lumber will not always be the only articles of commerce between the
Orient and Tacoma. This is only the beginning, and it does not require much
imagination to picture in the near future a constant stream of vessels, both steam
and sail, between Tacoma and the various commercial cities along the western
Pacific Coast. Tacoma has first secured these trade relations. Such relations are
very tenacious.

Seattle is the county-seat of King County, and

is known far and near as the " Queen City of Puget

Sound."

It has a present population of 20,000 against

3,500 in 1880. The city contains three national and

several private banks; four daily and several weekly
The Queen City

journals; one mortgage, loan and trust company;

twenty churches; five public school buildings, two

Puget S of which cost $30,000 and $42,000 each; a terri-

torial university; two private colleges and a girl's
academy; besides numerous private schools, three hospitals and an orphan's
home. The wholesale and retail stores are too many to enumerate, some of the
former doing a business annually of $500,000 to $1,000,000 each. The city is
admirably supplied with pure water, both by numerous private companies on a
small scale and by the mammoth works of the Spring Hill Water Company, located
at Lake Washington. This company has completed a great reservoir on Central
Hill, 315 feet above tide level. Connected with it in the city are over fifty-five
hydrants, from which five extinguishing streams are thrown far above the highest
buildings in the business part of the city. This city has a splendid system of gas-
works, also two electric light companies. Both arc and incandescent lights illumin-
ate our streets. Two lines of street cars are in operation and steadily extending
outward, and several other lines are projected. It contains more than forty
benevolent societies and fraternal lodges; also four well-drilled and equipped
militia companies. During the past few years there have been added to its
municipal improvements twenty-five miles of graded streets and sixty miles of
sidewalk. Some of the recent steps in the progress of Seattle as a metropolis are
here given: On October I, 1887, the free postal delivery system went into effect in
the city. A few weeks later Seattle was made the terminus and centre of distribu-
tion for all the mails for the entire Puget Sound country; in con sequence it has

SEATTLE.

A Town of Marvelous
Growth.

246 OVER THE RANGE

become the central headquarters and home port for destination and departure of
the steamboat system of the Sound. Within its maritime jurisdiction are now
plying more than eighty steamers. On December i, 1887, the United States
District Land Office was removed to Seattle, making this city the principal seat of
the public land business in Western Washington. Arrangements are perfected for
two new lines of cable road for street cars to run from the bay back to Lake
Washington, and they will soon be laid, namely, as soon as necessary improve-
ments, now in progress, on Madison, Columbia, Mill and Jackson Streets, are
completed.

The city of Seattle contains ten saw mills, whose plants cost $4,000,000, which
employ over seven hundred men; and also has tributary to it, within a radius of
thirty five miles, the mammoth lumbering establishments of Port Blakely, Port
Madison, Port Discovery, Port Gamble, Port Ludlow, Utsalady and Seabeck, said
to be the largest saw mills in the world, some of them having a capacity of 350,000
feet per diem, and employing scores of sea going ships There are three or four
brick yards and tile factories, four breweries, numerous bakeries, candy factories, a
cracker factory, several sash, door and blind factories, shingle factory, soap works,
furniture factory, soda works, bottling establishments, carpet weavers, match
factory, harness and saddlery, blank books and " bindery, book printing, several
boiler works, foundries, iron and brass works, etc. ; numerous boot and shoe shops
and tailoring establishments, factories of shirts and underwear, cigars, millinery
goods, chair stock, barrels, plaster decorations, etc.; four marble and stone cutting
works, patent medicines, dressmakers, hair work, cairiage makers, wagon shops,
fish packers, coffee and spice mill, cabinetmakers, boat builders; and numerous
dentists, jewelers, watchmakers, florists, nurserymen, fancy poultry breeders and
stockmen, furriers, gun and locksmiths, hatters, meat packers, photographers,
picture framers and painters, metallic roof works, scroll saw works, shipyards, tin
shops, taxidermists, chemists, undertakers, etc.

The export trade of Seattle and Puget Sound is very large and is rapidly
increasing. An idea of it can be formed from a single fact. During the fiscal year
ending June 30, 1887, the United States Custom House at Port Townsend noted
the departure from the Sound of 641 cargoes of coal and lumber, besides several of
wheat, which, at $10,000 each (a low estimate), would be worth $6,500,000. A
large bulk of this export wealth went to foreign ports all over the world, to be paid
for in coin. As Seattle is the chief metropolis of the entire Puget Sound region,
it is not far out of the way to credit the most of this business as her commerce,
since it is largely contributory to her growth. During the fiscal year ending June
30, 1885, the number of vesseU entered in the Puget Sound district was 1,065,
with a tonnage of 478,000, and the clearances were 1,065, with a tonnage of
452,234. Of the entrances, 271 cargoes, 151,301 tons were in cargo, and 794
cargoes, 326,839 tons were in ballast. Of the departures, those proportions
were just reversed, showing the balance of trade. The total value of her foreign
and coastwise exports for 1885 was $7,000,000. Besides the ordinary shipments
of coal, lumber, hops, oats, wheat, potatoes, furs, lime, canned and barreled
salmon, the "daily routine export trade to the neighboring British ports of Victoria
and British Columbia forms an enormous item.

Advantages Of Seattle. The special advantages of Seattle are too
numerous to mention in full. A few may be specified, as: First — A splendid
harbor, scarcely equaled in the world for the varied purposes and convenience of
commerce. Second — Its central position relative to the commerce of the world, as
the great seaport on the Pacific Ocean of North America, and directly facing

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

247

the teeming population of Asia and the great and rich island? of the South
Seas. It is already the chief port of supply for the growing trade of Alaska — •
a great region, more extensive than the thirteen original States of the Union,
with an ocean coast line of thousands of miles, that is beginning now to loom
up as a great coming source of supply of the precious metals, as well as of
furs, fish, wh;ile oil, yellow cedar and ice. Third — It has an excellent and most

productive soil for fruits, flowers, and garden produce, of such a nature as not to
be very dusty in summer nor muddy in winter. Fourth — Its exceptional health-
fulness. The death rate in Seattle is only 7 in 1000, per annum, which is less than
one-third that of the northern cities of the Union. Fifth — Its mild, even and delicious
climate, free from all dangers from the clouds above, from vapors or miasma
around, or the fires beneath. Sixth — Its surroundings on all sides, except the
magnificent harbor front, by grand lakes and deep, navigable rivers, which have
caused it to be officially designated as the location of a great naval station and
construction yard. Seventh — The one-third mile canal now completed between

248 OVER THE RANGE

Lakes Union and Washington, in the suburbs of the city, furnishes a o;reat water-
power of incalculable value for manufacturing and motive power.

Seattle has two lines of local railroad completed and in operation, the Colum-
bia & Puget Sound, with two branches, one twenty miles long, running to New-
castle, the other forty miles long, running to the Black Diamond and Franklin
collieries; and the Puget Sound Shore Line, extending through a link of the
Northern Pacific Railroad, and placing the city in connection with the Northern
Pacific, the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, the Union Pacific, the
Oregon & California, the Southern Pacific, and the general railroad system of the
United States.

The Canadian Pacific has been pushed through the Canadian Dominion by
British capital, to a Pacific terminus, something over a hundred miles north of
Seattle, and the Seattle & West Coast Railroad, which furnishes the connecting
link, and makes Seattle the American terminus of this great system, is now under
contract for the entire distance, and is being rapidly pushed to completion this
year. This line, as regards the carrying trade, is as much an element in the trans-
portation problem of the Northwest as any of the American roads. The Seattle,
Bellingham Bay & British Columbia Railroad Company, a local company of Seattle
capitalists, has obtained from Congress a charter for a through line, and are
actively pushing the preliminary work for a second line to connect Seattle by rail,
direct with the Canadian system, at the international boundary line on the 4gth
parallel.

Beauty Of the City. The city presents a beautiful and striking
appearance from whatever side it is approached. It rises from the water front
to the crest of a hill in a gradual slope. The site is most beautiful. The
city extends about four miles along the water front. The whole water front is
lined with mills, manufacturing establishments of various kinds, commission and
storage, and warehouses.

Steamers are constantly arriving and departing; regular lines run to Tacoma
and Olympia, to Port Townsend and Victoria, to Whatcom and other points on
Bellingham Bay, and to the Skagit River; there are regular steamers to Alaska,
San Francisco, San Diego, and other points in California. Ships from China,
Japan, Australia, crowd its docks. In addition to the great and varied industries
on the water front, there are business blocks, higher up, that would do credit to any
Eastern city. The residence portion of Seattle is unsurpassed for beauty. There
are hundreds of homes costing from $3,000 to $50,000, surrounded by charming
grounds, and so located and constructed as to command magnificent views of the
1 Sound, the Olympic and Cascade Ranges of mountains, always covered with snow,
and the mighty peaks of Mounts Rainier and Baker. To the north of the city and
close up to it lies the beautiful Lake Union, a body of fresh water covering a
section or two of land, and of immense depth. The heights about this lake are
being covered with pleasant homes, and in the near future it will be a most delight-
ful resort. To the east of the city, four miles from the bay, but now hardly a mile
from the city limits, lies Lake Washington, twenty-five miles in length by from
two to four in width. It is clear, fresh, sparkling water, so deep that it can not or
has not yet been sounded. The lake is hemmed in by hills covered with giant
forest trees. The water supply of Seattle is drawn from this lake. It is connected
with Lake Union by a small stream, which is being enlarged into a ship canal, so
that within a year or two the largest steamers and ships will go directly from the
salt water of the Sound into the clear, fresh water of Lake Washington. It will
make one of the finest ship-building points and dry-dock stations in the world, and

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

249

will certainly be utilized for such purposes, either by the National Government or
private enterprise. There is certainly not within the National domain such an
eligible location for a great navy yard. Special attention is being paid to the
establishment of manufacturing industries in Seattle, and almost every week
some new enterprise is materialized. Henry Villard, in his visit to the city in
1878, designated it " The Queen City." Situated as it is, in the heart of Western
Washington, with railways running out in many directions, with a harbor equal
to any in the world, the city well deserves the title. The city is the nucleus of

MT. RAINIER, W. T.

territorial commerce; all the prosperity of the country is reflected in the general
progress of the city. The history of the city is the history of the whole Northwest.
It is the supply depot and shipping port for a quarter of a million people; it is the
wholesale and retail market for a vast territory. Its commerce within the last two
years has assumed enormous proportions. It is the coal and lumber shipping
depot for the whole Pacific Coast. It is the heart of navigation of Puget Sound.
Nearly two hundred steamers radiate from the wharves to different local points.
(Population, 20,000. Distance from San Francisco, 940 miles.)

250

OVER THE RANGE

COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON DENVER & RIO GRANDE
RAILROAD AND DENVER & RIO GRANDE WESTERN RAIL'
WAY.

STATIONS

State
or
Territory

Population

Elevation

.2Q

STATIONS

State
or
Territory

Population

Elevation

Dist. from II
Denver

Uiah

4636

463

1200

887K

q'.a

Act-quill

Colo....

553U

Crevasse

Colo

4526

44ft

Adobe
Alamosa
Alcalde
Allentcn

Colo. ...
Colo ...
N. M ...
Colo. ..

"1206'

'7546
5709
7144

148
250
359
320

Crookton.
Crystal Creek..
Crystal Lake...
Cuchara June

Colo
Colo....
Colo. ..
Colo

8168
6831
9332
5942

26"
325
269

Almont

Colo. .,

8042

301

Cumures

Colo

10115

QOQ

Aita

Utah ..

742

Curecanti

Colo

7075

Q9^

Aiuar^o

N. M ...
Colo.

125

7009
8140

365
246

Dallas
Davenport

Colo....
Colo

8179

376
241

American Fork
Ant'i C'l Mine

Utah....
Colo

1800

4567
8947

702
322

Deer Run
Delta

Colo....
Colo

"'400'

'4980

404
374

Aiitouito

Colo....

250

7888

279

Del Norte

Colo. ,

1200

7880

281

Apache

Colo ..

5946

164

Denver

Colo

1 2 'soon

5195

Apisliapa
Aruoles

Colo
Colo

6158
6013

189
402

Desert Switch..
Dillon

Utah . . .
Culo

200

4504
8861

558
313

Aspt-n

Azotea

Colo...*..

N. M .

6500

408
353

Dotsero
Doyle

Colo
Colo

6154
8062

349
271

Baidy

Colo
Colo

7614
6232

238
195

Douglas
Domingez

Colo
Colo

6323
4801

35
392

Colo

7793

331

Draper

Utah

4394

776

Barranca

N. M....

6949

344

Dulce

N. M...

372

Battle Creek ..

Utah ....

4497

698

Duncan

Colo...,

4880

382

Beaver.

Colo

4999

143

Dundee

Colo ...

4712

117

Belleview. . ..

Colo

220

Durango

Colo .

3500

6520

450

Bessemer

Colo...,

4774

121

Eagle June ..

Colo

9762

275

Big Horn

N. M...

9022

298

Eagle Park

Colo

9227

294

Biimhara June.
Blngliam
Bird's Eye
Blackburn
Blanca

Utah....
Utah ....
Colo
Colo
Colo....

500
900

4366
4375
10183
7379
9064

723

740
282
183
207

Eagle River ...
Echo
Edgertou...
Eiler
Eldredge

Colo
Colo
Colo
Colo
Colo

:::::::.

6598
6085
6412
9858
6541

335
181
66
275

368

Boaz

Colo ...

186

Elko ...

Colo

264

Bocea

Colo.

6709

444

Elk Park ..

Colo ..

8883

489

Bonita

Colo . .

272

El Moro ..

Colo ....

200

5879

206

Borst
Bridges
Bridgeport —
Brown's Canon
Buena Vista...
Burnham

Colo
Colo
Colo....
Colo
Colo... .
Colo. ...

"is'oo"

6811
5048
4755
7322
7970
5241

58
146
399
224
242
2

Embudo
Emma
Engleville
Escalante
Espanola
Excelsior..

N. M....
Colo
Colo
Colo
N. M....
Colo

"106

5821
6610
6493
4845
5590
4928

351

386
37tt
457

Buxtou. . .

Colo

8794

254

Fairy Glen . . ..

Colo

179

Buttes.

Colo . .

5638

Fairview

Colo....

348

Cactus
Caliente

Colo
N. M

4880
7324

112
8Sfl

Farnham
Farm ington.

Utah ....
Utah ...

1534
4236

Calumet

Colo
Colo

9027
6424

448

Florence
Ft. Worth June

Colo
Colo

1000

5199
4805

152

Carbondale —
Carlile
Canon City
Carracas

Colo
Colo
Colo
Colo

500
' 2500'

6181
4950
5343
6173

379
140
161
344

Fort Crawford.
Florida...
Fountain
Francklyn

Colo
Colo
Colo....
Utah....

"'206'

6182
6717
5568
4291

361
436

88
728

Cascade

Colo....

7785

477

Fremont Pass..

Colo

11 828

290

Castle Gate

Utah..

6257

622

Frisco

Colo....

9086

310

Castle Rock...
Cattle Creek...
Cebolla

Colo
Colo
Colo

300

6219
6037
7354

Fruitvale
Garland
Garfleld

Colo
Colo ....
Cole

25
100
100

4523
7936
9510

436
226
235

Cedar Creek

Colo

6755

343

Glaciers

Colo

319

Cerro Summit

Colo ...

7968

336

Glenwood Spgs

Colo

3000

5768

Cham*
Cliamita

N. M....

N M

250

7863
5641

343
365

Germania
Glade

Utah...
Colo

4296
6518

71I

Chester
Chlcosa June

Colo
Colo....

9412
6124

250
199

Goodnight
Gorge

Colo
Colo

4728

124
165

Chlpeta

Colo.

369

Govetown

Colo. ..

7639

188

Cisco
Cimarron
Clear Creek

Utah . . .
Colo
Utah

"\50
50

4447

6906
6228

490
331
650

Graneros
Grand June
Granite

Colo
Colo..
Colo.

"is'oo

100

5804
4594
8945

146
$**»

Cleora
Coal Mine
Coal Creek. ..
Colorado City. .
Colorado Spr's.

Colo
Utahj....
Colo. ...
Colo. ...
Colo. ...
Colo

"isoo

1800
10000

7014

'5360
6110
5982
5352

214
653
155
78
75
364

Grassy Trail....
Gray's
Greenhorn.. ..
Greenland
Green River...

Utah.
Colo..
Colo..
Colo
Utah....
Colo ..

""25
25

4874
9673
5102
6921
4069
4681

134
47
544
119

Conchita June

Colo. ...

6393

181

Gtinnison

Colo

2500

7683

Coxo

Colo

§753

331

Gypsum

Colo

6325

342

Cotopaxl

Colo

3K.r>

193

Hale

Utah....

64 1>

Cotton wood.

Utah ....

4602

479

Halfway

Colo

232

Crane Park . .

Colo. ...

10119

281

Hayes . . .

Colo

24T

Utah

4S96

•>21

Hayden

Colo

9158

265

Cresoo....

N. M....

9193

334

Hecla June....

Colo

7371

226

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

251

INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS.

S ate
or
Territory

Population

Elevation

*s
i

STATIONS

State
or
Teriitory

Population

Elevation

Colo

255

Pike View

Colo

6188

Colo

6645

461

Pine Creek. ...

254

1 1 iltlrll

Colo

10277

245

Pinon ... ...

Colo.. .

5038

106

Home Ranch ..

Colo. ...
Utah

6559
4391

456
764

Placer
Plateau

Colo.. .
Colo

8410

212
29

Hotchkiss

Coio. ...
Colo

. .. .

6409
9024

365
255

Pleasant Val Jc
Pocono

Utah.
Colo.. .

200

7177
10316

636

239

Howard's
Hueifano

Colo. ...
Colo
Colo

6714
5677
6596

205
157
62

PoleCanon
Poncha June...
Poncha Pass

Utah . .
Colo.. .
Colo.

'"206

4890
7480
9059

674
221
231

Colo

6437

424

Price

Utah

100

5547

611

lack's Cabin

Colo

... ...

8309

306

Utah

5000

4517

689

Jordon Nar'ws

Utah

* *

724

Pueblo

Colo

25000

4667

120

Colo

6341

385

Colo

6228

Kantian ...

Colo....

4683

409

Red Cliff

Colo

1000

8671

299

Knysville

Utah

4263

754

Utah

5543

663

Keeldar
Keene

Colo

9970
9301

279
233

Reno

Colo
Colo

5236

157
296

Kelker

Colo

Riverside.

Colo. ...

140

8372

249

Kezar
Kokomo

Colo
Colo
Utah

""50

7434
10631
7052

302
296
632

Roan
Robinson.
Rockdale

Colo. ...
Colo
Colo....

""50

4542
10871

433
294
190

La Boca
Lake City

Colo
Colo

'ibdo

6177
8604

418

Rock wood
Roswell

Colo
Colo

7367

468
73

Lake Hughes ..
La Jara

Colo
Colo

350

7470
7609

385

Roulideau
Round Hill

Colo
Colo

'8687

379
235

Utah

748

Colo . .

6486

183

Colo

150

Rouse Junction

Colo

6144

173

6669

Colo

8304

303

j KoyUl

Utah

757

Colo.

325

N M

8468

289

Utah

SO*

La Veta....

Colo....

300

7025

191

Salida..'.'. ...'...

Colo.. ..

3000

7049

217

Leadville
Lehlgh
Lehlgh June ..
Leon

Colo
Utah ..

Colo
Colo

•SB8

10200
4544
5694

277
705
21
386

Salt Creek
Salt Lake City.
San Carlos
Sandy

Colo.. .
Utah.
Colo.. .
Utah . .

25000
"'SOO'

5469
4228
4900

140
735
128
725

Little Grand...
Littleton

Utah ....
Colo

300

4604
5372

52?
10

S'ntaCl'raMine

Colo.. .
Colo.

""48

6447
7255

187
316

Lobato

N M

8303

339

Sargent

Colo. . .

200

8477

259

9637

321

Schofleld

Utah

500

Lower Crossing
Malta

Utah...
Colo

25
50

4630
9580

570
272

Sedalia
Serviletta

Colo... .
N. M

100

5835
7727

^0?

Colo

1300

6318

Shale

Colo.

4608

452

Marshall Pass.

Colo....

10856

g^j

Sherwood

Colo

6901

328

Marsh

Colo
Colo

" i ifio

6347

Shawano

Colo....
Colo.

53 i 6

246
9

Meadows

Colo....
Colo

"*25

4812
8431

130
227

Shirley
Siding No 1

Colo....
Colo

8669

230
363

Menoken .

Colo

359

Shoshone

Colo

6119

357

Mesa

Colo

124

Silla

Colo

6672

430

Minturn
Midway

Colo
Colo
Colo

'..'.'.

7823

7852
5329

308
239
a

Silver Lake....
Silverton

Colo
Colo
Colo. .

2500'

6395
9224
6850

181
495
176

Military Post

Colo

........

5393

Soldier Sum'it

Utah

7465

642

Mill Fork

Utah

5808

658

Solitude

Utah....

4283

Mitchell's

Colo

9922

OQO'

South Fork...

Colo

8188

297

Monarch

Colo

N M

500
100

10028
7262

5^37

Spanish Fork..

Utah ..
Utali

2500

4721

551

±1 Jcl

Colo

1500

5311

ORO

Colo.

176

Colo

1000

Utah

616

Monument.. ..

Colo
Colo

200

6974

oi5

Springville ....

Utah !..

2500

4565
4758

683
461

Mule Shoe

Colo

8754

2l>2

Stewart June

Colo. ..

8006

317

Nathrop

Colo
N M

7695
6588

234
376

Sublette

N. M ...
Utah ..

9276
5270

305
591

Colo

8141

481

Swallows

Colo. ..

4878

135

New Castle

Colo

300

5=>60

Colo. ..

209

No Agua.

N. M.'!'

8205

Tennessee Pass

Colo. ...

10433

283

Oak Creek

Colo.. .

5352

156

Texas Creek. . .

Colo. ...

6217

186

Otfden
Ojo

Utah....
Colo

10000

4286
8189

771
199

Thistle

Utah ..
Utah

100

5U43
5145

679
515

Colo

" "

8212

226

Colo

6203

180

Osier

Colo

9637

317

Tollgate

Colo. ..

166

Colo

2500

7721

389

Toltec

N. M

9465

309

Ouray June

Colo

5830

354

Toluca

Colo. .,

Overland Park

Colo

5276

Tres Piedras

N. M ..

200

8088

Palmer Lake...
Pal mill a

Colo

N M

150

7237

8258

52
290

TrimbleSpr'gs.
Trinchera

Colo. ..
Colo. ..

6650
8104

9?0

Parkdale
Parlin's

Colo
Colo

100

5737
7952

171

278

Trinidad

Colo. ..
Colo....

6000

5994

210
174

Colo

7616

261

Twin Lakes

Colo....

9027

S61

Colo

5322

Colo

4636

418

Colo

6265

180

Vallejo

Colo

6222

409

Piedmont

Colo

7108

382

Vailie

Colo

6534

199

252

OVER THE RANGE
INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS.

State
or
Territory

Population

Elevation

Dist. from II

Denver

STATIONS.

State
or
Territory

Population

Elevation

Dist. from II
Deiiverjl

Vegas ...

Colo

127

Westwater

Utah

473

Veta Pass...

Colo....

9393

20K

Wheeler

Colo

9781

302

Villa Grove....
Volcano
W'g'n Wh'IGap
Wahatoya. . ..

Colo
N. M....
Colo. ..
Colo. ..

200
"'25'

7971
8487
8449
6504

247
297
311
183

Whitehouse....
White Water...
Widefteld
W if? wain

Utali...
Colo
Colo
Colo

4486
46H5
5720
5231

499
413
84
99

Walsen s

Colo

1000

6189

176

N M

7742

348

Wasatch
West Cliff
West Denver ..

Utah ..
Colo. ..
Colo. ..

25
800

'7864
5201

194
1

Wood's Cross
Woody Creek..

Utah ....
Colo....

100

4255
7270

740
399

MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND PASSES OF COLORADO.

With their elevations above sea level.

Feet.

Blanca 14,464

Harvard

Massive 14,

Gray's 14,341

Rosalie 14,~

Torrey 14.5

Elbert 14.5

La Plata 14.

Lincoln 14,297

Bur-kskin 14296

Wilson 14,280

Long's 14,271

Quandary 14,269

Antero 14.245

J am es' 1 4,242

Shavaiio 14,238

Uiicompahgre 14.235

Crpstones 14,233

Princeton 14.199

Mount Bross 14,185

Feet.

Holy Cross 14,176

Baldy 14,176

Sneffles 14,158

Pikes 14,147

Castle 14,106

Yale 14.101

San Luis 14,100

Red Cloud 14,092

Wetterhorn 14,069

Simpson 14.055

Aeolus 14.054

Ouray 14,043

Stewart 14,032

Maroon 14.000

Cameron 14.000

Handle 13.997

Capitol 13,992

Horseshoe 13 988

Snowmass 13961

Grizzly 13956

Feet.

Pigeon 13.928

Blatie 13.905

Frustrum 13.883

Pyramid 13,895

White Rock 13,847

Hague 13,832

R.G. Pyramid 13,773

Silver Heels 13,766

Hunchback 13.755

Rowter 13.750

Homestake 1 3,687

Ojo 13,640

Spanish 13,620-12,720

Guyot 13,565

Trmchara 13,546

Kendall 13,542

Buffalo 13,541

Arapahoe 1 3.520

Dunn 13,502

Bellevue 11,000

Feet.

Alpine Pass 13.550

Argentine Pass 13,100

Cochetopa Pass 10.032

Hayden Pass 10.780

Trout Creek Pass 9,346

MOUNTAIN PASSES.

Feet.

Berthoud Pass 11.349

Marshall Pass 10,852

Veta Pass 9.392

PonchaPass 8.945

Tennessee Pass 10.418

Tarryall Pass 12,176

Breckenridge Pass...

Cottonwooa Pass

Fremont Pass

Mosquito Pass

Ute Pass

Seventy-two peaks between 13,500 and 14,300 feet in height are unnamed and
not in this list.

Feet.

Twin Lakes 9.357

Grand Lake 8.158

Green Lakes 10,000

ELEVATION OF LAKES.

I Feet.

Chicago Lakes 11,500
Evergreen Lakes 10.500
Seven Lakes 11,806

Feet.

Palmer Lake 7238

Cotton wood Lake 7, 700

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

253

ALTITUDES OF TOWNS AND CITIES.

REVISED SINCE FIRST EDITION FROM ENGINEERS* MEASUREMENTS.

Feet.

Alamosa 7,546

Anlmas City 6,554

Aniinas Forks 11,200

Antonito 7,888

Aspei) 7.775

Hueua Vista 7,970

Canon City 5.344

Castle Rock 6.220

Colorado Springs 5,992

Crested Butte 8,875

Conejos 7,880

Cottouwood Springs... 7.950

Cuchara 5,943

Cumbres 10,015

Delta 4.963

Del Norte 7,880

Denver 5,196

Durango 6,520

Feet.

El Moro 5.879

Ft. Garland 7.688

Granite.... 8.945

Grand Junction 4,583

Gunnison 7,080

Glen wood Springs 5,200

Howardsville 9.700

Irwin 10, 500

Kokomo 10.631

Lake City 8,550

LaVeta 7,024

Leadville 10,200

LosPlnos 9.637

Montrose 5,793

Malta 9.580

Manltou 6,324

OjoCaliente 7.324

Ouray 7,640

Ogden. Utah

Pagosa Springs

Pinos, Chama Summit

Poncha Springs

Palmer Lake

Pueblo

Red Cliff

Robinson :

Rosita

Ruby Camp :

Sagnaehe

Salt Lake City

Silver Cliff

Silverton

Salida

Trimble Springs

Wesrrllffe

Wagon Wheel Gap

DISTANCES FROM DENVER.

Miles.

Alamosa 250

AnimasCity 390

Antonito. 278

Albany. N. Y 1,920

Breckenridge 198

Buena Vista 135

Boston, Mass 2,121

Baltimore, Md 1,857

Buffalo. N. Y 1,652

Canon City 160

Colorado Springs 75

Conejos 270

Cucharas 170

Castle Rock 33

Cincinnati, 0 1,255

Chicago, III. 1,059

Cleveland, O. 1,469

Columbus, 0 1.341

Columbus, Ky 1,108

Del Norte 285

Dillon 313

Deadwood. M. T 387

Durango 450

Detroit. Mich 1,343

El Moro 206

Espanola 370

Miles.

EstesPark 85

Eureka, Neb. 394

Fort Garland 226

Grand Junction 425

Granite 259

Gunnison 290

Huerfano 157

Irwin 2:

Indianapolis, Ind l,li

Kokomo 297

Kansas City, Mo 639

Lake City 364

LaVeta 191

Leadville 171

Littleton 11

Louisville, Ky 1 233

LasVegas 341

Manltou 80

Monument 56

Montrose 353

Milwaukee, Wis 1,197

New York. N. Y 1,910

Nashville, Tenn 1,418

Ouray — 425

Omaha, Neb 569

Ogden. Utah 622

Palmer Lake 52

Miles.

ParrottCity 466

Pueblo us

Philadelphia. Pa 1.888

Pittsburgh, Pa 1,566

Peoria, 111 979

Quincy, III 845

Rosita 190

Red Cliff 245

Rock Island, 111 1,024

Saguache..... 260

Silverton 495

Salida 225

Silver Cliff 194

Soutli Pueblo 120

St. Louis. Mo . 913

San Francisco, Cal 1 ,445

Salt Lake City. Utah 660

Santa Fe. N. M 300

Trinidad 211

Trimble Springs 459

Twin Likes 261

Toledo, 0 1,303

Veta Pass 203

Walsen's 176

Wagon Wheel Gap „. 311

Washington, 1). C 1,809

PRONUNCIATION OF PROPER NAMES.

Acequia A-sa kia

Crested Butte Crested Bute

Costillia Costea

Canon Can - yon

Cumbres Cum-breez

Cuchara Cu-cha-ra

Conejos Co-na-jos

Chihuahua Che-wa- wa

Huerfano Wa-far-no

La .Junta... La Hun-ta

LaJara La Hara

LaVeta La Va-ta

Monero..., Mo-na-ro

Manitou Man-i-too

Navajo Na-va-no

OjoCaliente O-ho Cal-i-en-te

Ojo O-ho

Pueble de Taos Pueblo-de-Tows

Pinon Pin-yon

Saguache Se- watch

Sierra Mojeda Sierra Mo-ya-da

Santa Fe San-ta Fay

San Juan San Wan

San Miguel San-me-gil

Sap inero Sapi -na-ro

Tierra Amarilla Tier Ama-rea

Tr i nchera Tri n - c h ara

Vallejo Vall-a-ho

Wanatoya Wa-ha-toy-ya

254

OVER THE RANGE

COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE SOUTHERN
PACIFIC RAILROAD.

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population 1

Elevation

Miles from
S.Fraucisco

Acampo

Gal.

120

107.21

Blue Canon...

Cal...

110

4695

168

Acton

Cal .

150

2670

427 1

Blue Creek

Utah...

427:.'

792

Aden

N.M. .

4391

1237.9

Boca

Cal

400

5531

218

Adonde
Afton ....

Ariz. ..

N.M. .,

212

4207

760.9
1250

Bolsa
Bonneville

Cal....
Utah...

177
4260

£1

Cal

100

2319

387

Cal

108 29

A^news
Alameda
Alainitos
Albany
Alcalde

Cal
Cal
Cal
Or ....
Cal

60
7750

"3000

25
20
191
210
850

41
11.13
58
692
301 34

Borden
Bosque
Boulder Creek.
Bovine
Bowie

Cal
Ariz....
Cal
Utah...
Ariz.. .

388
""300

"'i'o'6

273
1080
470
4277
3759

187.81
859.5

699
1089

Aider Creek

Cal

109

Bracks

Cal...

117 29

Alexis

Cal

558 2

Bradley

Cal...

539

196

Cal

700

490

Brandon . .

Cal...

130

Alila

Cal

280

273.51

Brentwood

Cal

200

62.70

Cal

71 22

Cal.

500

134 03

Alma

Cal..

170

560

Brigham,

Utah...

1800

4239

816

Almaden

Cal..

1500

348

Brooks

728

Cal

5<I5 3

Cal

546 6

Alpine

Cal..

oSo-;

417.3

Browns

Cal

3929

325

Alta

Ual

3607

159

Cal

129

Cal

740

55 97

Cal

301

Alvarado
Alvlso

Cal..
Cal
Cal

600
110

io3? n

Buckhorn
Burbank
Burnetts

Cal
Cal
Cal...

"'250

593

558
189

468.5
471.4
123.70

Am Rvr Bridg

Cal

Burson

Cal...

126.36

Amity

225

890

Butler

Cal

212.95

Cal

2000

133

508 9

Byron

Cal....

100

67.83

Anderson
Anita

Cal
Ual

Cal

750

432
160

249
195
67 91

Cabazon
Cachise
Cactus

Cal
Ariz....
Cal

100

1779
4222
395

574.9
1054.5
712 8

Cal

100

162

104

Cal

97 47

Antioch
Applegate

Cal
Cal...

700

46
2014

51.54
136

Caliente
Cal is toga

Cal
Cal

1290
363

336.3
72.79

Aptos •

Cal

100

102

112

Campbell

Cal

Ariz

144

736 6

N M

4224

1224 5

Arbuck'le .".'.'.."
Area le

Cal
Cal

300

139
55

114.47
98

Cameron
Camllos

Cal
Cal...

150

3787
733

3 0.9
463.1

Cal

144

140 09

Cana

Cal...

200

172

198

Vev

4547

486

Canby

Or....

100

749

Cal

233

257 43

Or...,

756

Army Point

Cal...

31.86

Cannon

Cal

56.35

2000

1898

431

Cantara

Cal...

330

Cal

161 57

Cap ay

Cal .

200

9337

Cal

210

161 64

C H Mills

Cal .

2676

149

Atwater

Cal...

153

144.28

Carbondale

Cal

133.22

Cal

1700

1360

126

Carlin

Nev....

394

4897

535

Aurora

Or .

200

745

Carlton

125

875

Aurant

Cal

485

Carmenita

Cal

501.1

Avon

Cal

39 15

Carnadero

Cal

168

Aztec
Baden

Ariz....
Cal

495
-39

8063

Carpinteria
Casa Grande. . .

Cal. ...
Ariz ...

300
400

8
1396

517.3
913.7

Bakersfield

Cal

2000

415

314.04

Cascade

Cal. .

6538

190

Bale

Cal

287

68 53

Cal

1"8 77

Balfour

Utah. . .
Cal

200

4239
2317

801
569

Castaic
Castle

Cal. ...
Cal..

1004
37

4543
97.59

Banta
Bardins

Cal. ..
Cal....
Or

150

74.82
115
747

Castle Crag
Castroville
Cemetery

Cal.. ..
Cal .
Cal.

" '600

1943
17
92

3)7
110
11

Barrett

Cal ..

Cedar

Nev ..

5974

620

Barro
Baravia
Battle Mount 'n

Cal....
Cal....
Nev

""so

522

245
67
4511

66.35
65.15
474

Centerville
Central Point..
Ceres

Cal. ..
Or.. ..
Cal. .

300
50
200

32
450
118.65

42 24

Cal

498 5

Bealville.. '.".'."
Beaumont

Cal

8?'

""300
250

1793
2560

341.6
562.8

Charleston
Chemawa
Chestnut .. .

Cal

Si- :::

98.20
724
3x'2

B'Mlo

Cal

204

62 3'*

Ohittendens ...

Cal

202

Chico . ..

Cal .

600 J

19S

186

Benlcia

Cal

'3200

33 25

Cholone

Cal

232

152

Cal

Chromite

Cal

1561

309

Bennett
Benson
Beowawe
Berenda .
Bernal

Cal
Ariz....

Nov....
Cal
Cal

' 2000
62
85

' '3578
4695
256
186

134
10 if). 4
507
177.59
4

Clunlar
Cicero
Cienega
Cisco

Cal
Cal
Cal. ...
Cal
Cal

'"lOO
25

103
90
119
5934

129
121.45
490

182
H4.34

Berryman
Bethany
BlffM

Cal
Cal
Cal

5?§3

10
40
98

11.8*5
76.74
163

Clackamas
Clarks
Clawson

Or
Nev....
Or ...:

150

' 5263

2250

762
264
426

Big Trees
Bishops
Bttuma
Bl-in'fs
Bl'k Butte Stnt.

Cal..'...
Nev....
Cal
Oi
Cai

•"ion

270
5423

SB*

96 71
345

Clements
Cluro
Clyde
Roiling*
Copper Gap....

Cal
Nev....
Cal
Oal
Cal

""50

"4785
153
665
1759

115.30
51(5
119.20
296.34
133

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

255

INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS.

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

STATIONS.

State
or
Terr't>

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

Coburns
(join

Cal. .

Nev

259
4506

158
462

Emigrant Gap..
Esperanza

Cal
Cal

5221

174
90.7?

Coles

Colestln

Cal
Or

•2005
3730

404
411

Essex
Estrella

Nev...
Ariz...

4936
1521

232

869

Colfax
Coif red

Cal. ..
Ariz

400

242*

144
778 2

Eugene
Ewings

Or
Cal

2200
24

455
120

649
123

Cal

171

Exeter

Cal...

•>r>8 r>r>

Cal

730 5

Or ...

722

Cal

130 13

Fair Oaks

Cal...

Colton
Cometa

cai.::::

Cai

2500

9b5
153

539.7
117 20

Farmingtou
Felton . ...

Cal
Cal

350

200

115
275

11.2
74

Cal

800

493 7

Felton (old)

Cal.. ..

275

618

Fenelon .. .

Nev,...

100

6154

635

Coopers

Cal

113

Fernando

Cal....

200

1066

461

Cordelia

Cal.. ..
Utah

100

15
4231

45.89
809

Fill more . .
Finnell

Cal
Cal

475
258

473.7
184 88

Cornelius
Corning
Cornwall.. ..

Or
Cal.. ..
Cal . ..

350
75

'"277
30

857
179.53
49.89

Florence
Florin
Florison

Cal
Cal
Cal

200
100

151
42
5353

486.2
129.98
223

Corvallis
Cosgrave

Or
Nev....

1800

"4237

Flowing Well:.
Folsom

Cal
Cal

"iooo

671
112

Cottage Grove..

of:::::

Cil

300
450

"421

626
242

Forest Grove..

Or
Cal...

800

859
110 50

Co vote ...

Cal

200

251

Fowler

Cal

150

308

2 '6.23

698

Cal...

f a[

315

41 97

Cal.

8000

293

206 65

Creswell

100

635'

Frinks

Cal

*60

653.3

Crocketts

Cal

100

Froman

693

C.il

278

234 79

Fruitvale

Hal...

250

1072

899

Fruto

Hal. ...

167 97

Cal

2UO

952

521.5

Fry

Dr...,

695

Oummings ....
Curtis

Cal
Cal

' * 42

141
(jl 03

Fulton Wells...

Cal
N. M...

100
25

124

4488

499.3
1179

Cal

408

189 17

Gait

Cal

700

112 6

Datliol

Cal

'•*87 94

[Jtah . .

681

Davis

Cal

500

76.56

Gaston

865

Cal

150

27 42

Cal.

2760

363

Deeth
Delano
Delavan ...

Nev....
Cal
Cal

100
500

5340
313
95

594
281.84
139.28

Jeneora..
Sermantown...
Gervais

Cal
Cal
Or...,

100
200
300

99
170

118.53
157.81

Delhi

Cal

121

133.19

Gibson

Cal...

1387

306

Delta

Del Monte

Cal...
Cal

1138

298
124

Gili Bend
uiliCity

Ariz. ..
Ariz. ..

737
171

850.1
744 7

Deming

N M

2000

4334

1198 5

Gillespie

Cal...

107 3

Derry

903

Gilroy

Cal. ...

2000

193

Desert
Dillard

Nev....
Or

ibo

4018

287
564

Girvan
Gtrard

Cal....
Cal

200

3301

255
355 3

Diamond ..

Cal

146

Glamis

Cal

696.7

Dilleys

150

861

Cal

306 99

DinuDa

Cal

236 25

Glen Ellen

Cai

100

60.11

Divide

622

Gloster

Cal

125

388.3

Dixon
Domingues ...

Cal
Cal

1350

66
61

68.50
496

Glendale
Glenwood

Or
Cal...

100

965
890

510
66

Dos Palmas .

Cal

253

642 4

Golconda

Nev....

335

4392

431

Downey ....

Cal

1000

111

494 9

Gold Hill

459

Dragoon Sum'it

Ariz

4614

1044 5

G.)ld Run

Cal...

250

3222

155

Drains

300

611

Go I eta

Cal...

400

537.1

Drummond
Drylyn

Cal
Cal

396

62.11
707 9

Goltra
Goodyears

Or
Cal...

' i i

697
39.01

Dugan

Cal

134

( joshen

Cal

286

240 64

Duuuigan. ..

Cal

109

104 26

Gosheu

643

Dunsmuir

Cal.

350

2285

324

Gonzales

Cal ...

127

135

Durham
Dutch Flat....
Dry Camp .

ffi: ::

Cal. ..
Cal

200
500

161
3595

180
157
602 2

Granite Point. .
Grants Pass....
Greenwood

Nev ...
Or
Cal ..

"iooo

3916
"232

333
476
162.94

East Oakland

Cal

5300

9 30

Greens

Or. .

570

East Portland

8000

772

3462

409

E. San Gabriel

Cal

409

492

Cal

371

Eden Vale

Cal

180

Cal

267

Edgewood
El Casco

Cal. ..
Cal

100

2955
1874

355
554 2

Gridley

Cal
Cal

1000

1HO
56

El Dorado

Cal

300

143

Cal

106 37

Elk Grove

301

123 84

Hafed

Nev

2f>H

Elkhorn
Elko

Ellis

Cal
Nev....
Cal

'"752

5065
76

107
558
69 59

Haggin
lalconera
Halls

Cal
Cal...
Cal

97
159.37
25

Elmira

Cal. .

350

60.32

lalleck

fev..

5229

581

ElModena
Elmore
El Paso
El Verano
Elwood

Cal
Cal. ..
Texas. .
Cal. ..
Cal

200
15

'"206

242

805
3713

518.8
2S5
12867
54.81
541 3

lalsey
ianford ..
Harrington
larrisburg

Or...
Cal...
Cal...
Or ...
Cal

350
800

'"506

"242
137

139

675
253.84
109.30
667
69 27

Ely

Cal

8 1 19

Cal

1500

21 08

Emerald...

Cal.. ..

108^5

Heaton...

Ariz....

1186

887.2

are

OVER THE RANGE
INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S.Francisco

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

MliP8frnm
S. Francisco

Henline

Cal ..

211
922
280
12

'"147
5978
82
284

263.44
196.2
196.8
12
59.21
.........

629
102.7
94
93
446.3
235
534
395
298
740
374
280.74
347
908
611.7
139.80
442
655
699
33.75
493.4
971.8
791
108
66 1
254.25
349 9
741
277
121.98
296.97
226.7
163
174.35
95.13
789
156.77
763
198
1259.7
406.5
141
439.3
538.6
625
82.82
127
64
24
44
239
701
56
496
5H7.4
301.67
754.3
261.84
26729
119
1149.6
153
47.88
137.49
111.31
104 29
145.30
149
115
506.8
18.43
1138.9
657
482.2
4033
484
485.6
55
66.61

Los Medanos...
L,os Nietos
Lovelocks. ...

Cal...
Cal
Nev...

'"500
100

38
156
3977
2085
4496

52
500.4
341
320
688
1080.4
265.45
154.24
492.1
769
119.46

'8:8?
Sin

488.1
211.32
170.01
683.1
98
69.94
513.8
H92.2

720
35.64
143
134.04
35

335
120.30

Herbert

Cal .

Herndou
Highland

Cal
Cal ...

100

L,wr SodaSprgs
L,ucin
Luzena
Lvnnly.

Cal
Utah...
Ariz. ..
Cal.

Hillgirt
Hillsboro
Hillsdale
Holborn
Holden

Cal.
Or
Cal. ...
Nev....
Cal

"'800

L,yman
Lvnnwood

Cal

Cal....

144
89

""94

278

"342

Hollister
Homestead

Cal
Cal....
Cal

2300

Machine Siloes.
Macy
Madera

Or
Cal
Cal

1200

Hooker

Cal

Madison
Vladrone
Mail Dock
Haitland

Cal
Cal
Cal....
Cal

Hopevale
Hornbrook
Hot Springs.. .
Hubbard
Humboldt
Huron

Cal
Cal
Nev....
Or
Nev....
Cal
Cal

""ibo

250
32
150

116
2154
4072

Cal

4236
367
3730

""20
287
4375

Malton

Cal...

258
257

Mammoth T'nk
Manlove... .

Cal
Cal...

Independence..
Indio
lone

Or
Cal
Cal
Nev...
Or

800

"'ioo'o

""50

Maple ..

Cal...

319
173

1173

""14
4597
10
66
94
28

Marcus

Dal

.Maricopa.,
Marion . .

Ariz. ..
Or ..

96
300

Iron Point

Martins

Cal....

Irvlnviile

Matlin
Martinez
Marysville
Maxwell
Mayfield

Utah...
Cal. ..
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal

"1500
6000
450
900

Irvmgtou

Cal

500

Ivy. ..

Cal

Jaynes
Jefferson
Junction
Junction City..

Ariz....
Or
Cal
Or
Cal

"'250
250
350

2241
"163

McAvoy
McCloud

Cal

16
3349
49

Cal....

Keene

Cal

2705
4222

McConnells ....

Cal

100
100
1800
100
500

Kelton
Kennet

Utah...
Cal ...

135

McMinnville...
VIcPherson
Medford

Or
Cal
Or

"262
1399

5i 7/6"
446
70.41
11.54
J»2
45.51
151-73
4-85
81.61
1016 8
694.1
2H3
63.93
698

•n

41.72
102
160.57
121.7
766
215.65
168
510.9
313
114.34
787
381.7
546
240.75
377
495.3
495.3
525
667
125
878.1
756
623
282
112
9984
833
543.1
39

Keyes
Kimberlena...

Cal
Cal

Kingsburg
Kings City
Kirkwood

Cal
Cal
Cal

450
200

300
332
226
45

Melitta
Melrose
Menlo Park....
Merazo
Merced

Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal. ...

100
400

"3606

18
64

"171

Knights Lndg..
Kolmar
Kurand
Lake
Lake View

Cal....
Utah. .
Cal
Utah...
Cal ..

350

' 4215
6245
4165
2350
2225
1681
4

""26

'"916
19
64

4043

Cal

56
4034

4226

VIescal
Mesquite
Vliddle Creek..
Midway

Ariz....
Cal
Cal
Cal

'"150
35
20
100
100
500

Lanark

N. M.

Lancaster

Cal
Cal

Lang

Cal

Millers
MillCity
Millbrae
Mllpitas

Or.. ..
Nev...
Cal....
Cal....
Cal

La Patera

Cal

Latham
Lathrop

Or
Cal. ..

50
600
150
100

"'300
'"500

Latiobe
Laurel

Cal
Cal

Millsholm

Cal....

""200
125

2500

"381

'"242
138
4247
91
541
2751
4981

Laurel Creek...
Lawrence
Lawton
Lebanon
Le Francs

Cal... .
Cal....
Nev....

£,::::

Milwaukee —
Minneola
Vli^turn
viiraflores
Vlirage...
VIodesto
VIoh'wk Sum'it
Mojave
VIoleen

Or ....

Cal....
Cal....
Cal
Nev...,
Cal...
Ariz...
Cal
Nev....
Cal

Leland

Lemon

Cal

Lerdo

Jal
Ari7

414

150

Lemoore
Lillis
Lincoln

Cal
Cal.
Cal. ...

400
"'600

'"206
250
50
300
700

220
214
167
4278
80
485
136

" "55
108
72
400
41
35
4245
5595
293
278
258
222
400

Montague

Cal

2542
89
286
16
4991

133C
4226
616?
722
13
50
3156
1055
73

Lisbon
Live Oak
Llvermore
Livingston
Lockford
Lodl

N. M...

Cal

Monte

Cal...

200
102

"2306
50

"'200
"'400

Cal...

Montello
Monterey

Molltr/ II HIM

Monument
Moors
Morley
Morocojo
Morrano
Mott

Nev....
Cal
Ariz ...
Utah...
Nev....
Cal
Cal.....
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Or.

Logandale

el""!!

Lomo
Loomis

Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal. ...
N. M..
Nev....
Cal

"'400
' 60000

Long Beach...
Lorenzo
Lordsburg
Loray
Los Angeles —
Cotnmerial st
San Pedro st
Washingtn st
Los Oatos
Los <i aliens....

Mound City....
Mountain View
Mt. View

Cal.'.'.'.'.
Cal

' 20nO
100

Mt. Eden
Mowrys

Cal
Cal....

350

32
670
84.12

Mullen

Cal

70 THE GOLDEN GATE.

257

INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

to
S,

Miles from
S. Frar Cisco

Cal

Muscatel

Cal

299

198 69

Myrtlo Creek

552

Mystic

Cal

5164

227

Nadeau

Cal

150

491

Napa

Cal...

6000

46.47

Napa Junction.
Natchez

Cal
Nev .,

150

79
5295

38.31
590

Natoma

Cal...

108

Nelson
New Alniaclen
(S.P.C. Ry)..

Cal
Cal...

1500

124

173

vewark
N E. Mills .. .

Cal
Cal ...

600

2280

29
139

New Era
Newhall
Newcastle
Newman

Or
Cal
Cal
Cal

300
125
350

'1265
956

752
452.3
121

New Ramona..
Newton
Nichols
Niles

Cal....
Or
Or
Cal
Cal

::::*o

""$

882
533
30.20
142 94

Nord

Cal...

200

153

193

North'n June..
North Vallejo )
N.Val'Jo Whf J
North Yamhill.
Norwalfc

Cal
Cal
Or
Cal. ...

5500

58
5 14
\ 12

86.62
32.11
31.05
872
499

Oakdale
Oak Grove
Oak Knoll

Cal
Cal
Cal ..

1000

155
17
114

125.70
19
51 11

Oakland

Cal. .

55000

7 70

Oakland

Or.. .

400

591

Oakville
Ocean View
Ochoa
Ogden
Ogilby

Cal...
Cal
Ariz. ..
Utah...
Cal

25
75
65
15000

160
293
4102
4286
355

58.49

1035.1
833

7152

O in bey
Olga

Utah...
Ariz

4721

730
1097 2

Ontario
Orange
Oreana
Oregon City....
Orland

Cal
Cal....

Nev. ..
Or... .
Cal.. ..

1800

657i

1400
500

981
127
4181
95
259

521

513.8
353
757
1 66 4

Ortega

Cal..

521 3

Osino

Nev. .,

5134

*)66

Pacionrna

Cal . ..

463

Painted Rock..

Ariz. .

726

834 3

Paiars
Palisade
Pampa
Pantano
Papago
Paper Mill.. .
Parkers
Paso Robles...
Peko

Cal
Nev...
Cal.. ..
Ariz....
Ariz....
Or
Or
Cal
Nev

50
252

"'35

60U

4840

"3536
3010

525
329
1007.1
993
759
914
216
578

Penryn
Peplin
Perkins

Cal
Utah. . .
Cal...

400
"lOO

..e.26

118
734
97

Perrys
Peters
Pequap

Cal
Cal

Nev...

299
100
6184

66
106.70
640

Phoenix
Picacho

Or
Ariz

300

1616

439
931 9

Pilot Knob. ..

Cal...

285

721 5

Pinole
Piru .

Cal. ...
Cal. .

250

24.02
4h6 3

Pixley
Piute....

Cal. ..

Nev ..

262
4507

297.92
468

Placerville
Pleasanton
Point Isabel...
Pomona
Popes
Port Co.-ta
Porterville... .
Portland
Poso
Proberta
Promontory
Prosser Creek..
Puente
Pyramid

Cal. ...
Cal. ...
Cal
Cal
Cal ....
Cal
Cal
Or
Cal
Cal
Utah...
Cal
Cal
N. M..

2000
600

"4200

" 125
250
50000

"'131

'"soo

""3X3
10
857

"" 12

'"417
' 4905

5l23
4301

149
41.80

5il"
109 29
32.17
275.95

293.70
217
780
216
501.5
1134.5

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

§
|

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

Railroad Pass

Ariz...

4394

1073.6

Cal...

287

220

Cal...

1 Oft

938

198.59

Red Bluff . .
Redding
Red Rock . . .
Redwood..

Cal
Cal....
Ariz. ..
Cal
Cal.

1500

307
551
1865

225
260
9458
28
231.05

Reed vi lie

Reeds
Reno
Rice Hill
Richfield
Riddles

Cal
Nev...
Or
Cal
Or

"4302
1500

"30

72
4497

487
276

136
244
574
182.80
546

Rillito
Rincon

Ariz....
Cal...

2058
300

961.3

Ripon

Cal...

200

104.56

Rocklin

Cal...

800

249

112

N. M...

3728

1282.2

Cal...

2315

395.5

Roscoe Spurs. ..
Roseburg
Rose Creek

Cal
Or

Nev ..

""is'oo

"'487
4320

467
574
403

Cal

101

Cal

346.4

Rozel

Utah...
Or

4588

772

557

Rumsey
Russells
Rutherford. .
Rye Patch .. ..
Sacramento. ..
Sacramento . .

Cal
Cal... .
Cal. . .
Nev.. .
Cal ..
Cal... .

"Too

32000
32000

""183
4257
30

111.37
19
60.38
3«3
89.79
139.67

Salem
Salida

Or
Cal..

6000
50

190
72

720
107.58

Salinas
Salton
Salvia

Cal
Cal
Nev...
Cal

3000

44
263
4177
21

118
636.7
271
26

SangerJunc.. .
Sand Cut

Cal
Cal...

220.85
94

Sand Cut

Cal...

326.2

San Andros
San Ardo . ...

Cal
Cal

153
452

106

182

San Buenaven-
i ura
San Bruno

Cal...
Cal
Cal

3000
50

400000

45
15
14

500.2
14

San Gabriel....
San Joaquin
Bridge
San Jose
San Jose
San Jose
San Leandro.. .
San Lucas
Salsbury

Cal

Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal.
Cal...

1000

"25000
25000
25000
1600
200

409

80
91
86
48
396

491.4

46
47.74
50
15.73
172
106

San Mateo
San Miguel...
San Pai»lo ....
San Pedro
Sanswain...

Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal. ...

950
400
250
500

6?l
30

"io74

21
207
17.59
507.1
531.2

San Simon
Santa Ana
Santa Barbara.
Santa Clara
Santa Clara
Santa Cruz (S.
P.C. Ry.)
Santa Cruz
Beaeh

Ariz....
Cal
Cal....
Cal
Cal

Cal

'5006
7500
3000
3000

7000

3609
134
3
75
72

1104.7

81
121

Santa Cruz
Beach (N D )

Cal

120

Santa Monica..
Santa Rosa,...
Santa Paula....
Sargents
Saticoy
Saugus

Cal
Cal
Cal ....
Cal
Cal
Cal...

2000
7000
900

"95

'"286
40
146
1159

5004
7501
483.7
87
490.8
449.8

Sauterne
Savanna..
Seacliff

Cal
Cal
Cal

'"150

'"296
1 \

107-07
493.9
509 7

Seco
Selby
Selma

Utah...
Cal
Cal

'"306
2200

4223

»H

?2851
Xo*Dl

221.78

S58

OVER THE RANGE

INDEX TO STATIONS— CONTINUED.

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

160
71.73
23246

72.77
101

H4.7

476.3
210
978.4
251.12
b07
420
1190.1
455 9
12739
712
521.7

276
73.02
662

325

64.56
997.8
29.01
131.32
1172.4
5483
97
234
496.8
205
6645
492 5
93.45
421.5
252
6b08
321.3
278
b30
121.32
625
100.7
516.1

•8.71

3739

101"

113.7
8.- 44
614
919
10.42
523
474.3
5.89

17
101.25
130

887
314

583.4

583'
10653
125.19
150.87
767
5U4.5
985.1
1170.2
414
212
486.8
76.82
504
106.31

Seminary Park
Sentinel.
Separ
Sepulveda

Cal .

688
4503
461
227
450
584
4160

" " 1 0

12.25
820.5
1157.6
473.6
212
476.6
590.9

687.96
50.31
127
138
487
488.6
169
311
414

192
20.82
57.21
143
115
431.9
31.01

64.51
511.5
125
646
815 9
13.92
421
1119.4
64.36
880
91.7
8.75
455
1272.2
203
497.2
49.5
195
36.60

916

80'.64
770.8
24H.55
183.48
111.89
101.67
186
685
437
113.25
247.55
44.19
674
3«1.7
187.34
213
466.5
222
72
709
7932
503
494.6
6188
283
42 06
261 52
650

Towles

Cal....

3704
64
292
61
514

Ariz....
N M

Tracy
Traver

Cal....
Cal....
Cal

200
600

Cal

Tremont

TresPinos
Trigo

Cal....
Cal...

500

Cal

Seven Palms....
Shady Run

Cal

Tropico

Cal...

428
5819
2390
282
5484
4313
4422
14H1
107

'"m

4156
244

Cal
Or

""80
40

Truckee .

Cal ....

1500
10000
4000
30

Tucson
Tulare

Ariz. ..
Cal

Shell Mound...
Shellville

Cal
Cal...

Tulasco
Tule

Nev....
Nev

Sheridan
Shingle Springs
Shoshone
Short

Cal
Cal ....
Nev....
Cal..

250
150

116

Tunis
Tunnel
Turlock
Turner
Tustln
Two Miles Sta.

N. M...
Cal
Cal
Or
Cal
Nev...,

""250
400
500

4634
459
112
1387
4130
3555

Silsby
Sims
Siskiyou
Sisson

Cal
Cal
Or .

'"53

Cal

250

Tyler. ...

Cal

Slatonia

Udell.

Cal

Pal

975
2675
186
6749
23

Ullin.. . .

Nev .

5000
2360

""12

Cal. ..
Cal

Upper Soda
Springs
Vacavifle
Vail
Vallejo June

Cal...
Cal
Ariz....
Cal...

Soda Springs...
Sobrante
Sobre Vista

Cal
Cal. ..
Cal

Soledad

Cal...

200
500

182
14

Valley Spring..
Vanarman

Cal
Ariz. ..

Soquel

Cal...

South Side

Cal.. ..

Vanden
Vega...,

Cal
Cal....

South Vallejo...
South Los Gull-

Cal
Cal

5500

Verdi

Nev...

4895
165
213

Vervain . .

Cal...

Spadra

cal:::::

Cal

250

705
79

'"565
23
3035
4351
254

Vina
Violet

Cal
Cal...

150

Springfield.. . .
Stanwix

Or
Ariz.. .

200

Vinvale

Cal...

104

Vernalis

Cal

Stege
Steinman . .

Vista

Nev....

3211

4403
225
567
4085

Steins Pass

N. M...

Volcano Spr'gs.
Wade....

Cal....

St. Helena
St. Joseph

Cal
Or....

2500

Cal

Wadsworth
Walkers...

Nev....
Or

661

Stockton

20000

23
17
4422
4083
6312
102
11

7§JI

Stockyards

Cal

Wallace
Walters

Cal...
Cal...

150

"195
65
294

Stone House....
Strauss
Stronsrs Canon..
Studebaker
Suisun
Summit
Sunol

Nev....
N. M

Walthall

Cal...

Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal
Cal...

"iooo

200

Wanda

Cal

Wapato
Warfleld

Cal

Warm Springs.
Warren

Cal
Cal

Surrey

Cal...

Watsonville....

Cal....
Cal....

3000

23
216
26
5628

' ' ' 14

Surbon.

Utah...

Suver's..

'1296

Webster

Cal...

Sweet Water...
Swingle

Ariz. .
Cal

Wells

Nev....

•s

57U

Wells

Tacna
Tagus

Ariz....
Cal

325
292
314

West Berkeley.
West Fork
West Glendale.
West Oakland..
West San Lean-
dro
West San Lor-
enzo
Westley
W'heatland... .
Whites
White Plains .
White Rock. .
White Water..

Cal
Or....

Talbot

Cal

Taison

Cal

Cal
Cal

Cal
Cal
Cal
Or
Nev...
Cal

'"600

12
20
10
""90
3894

Tancred .

Cal

"6200

Cal

Talent

Or....

Tartron

Cal...

Taurusa

Cal.

Teal

Cal..

10
4812
3964
222
222

Tecoma

Nev .

60
300
500
329

Tehachapi
Tehama
Tehama
Tejunga

Cal
Cal. ...
Cal
Cal

Cal

1126
139
239

Whitneys

Cal...

Whittier

Cal ..

500

Tennent

Cal
Cal .

500

773
4548

"4170
"'267

1507
183

Wild wood

Cal....

Wilbur

Or. . . .

Ariz. .
Cal.. .
Cal.. .
Or... .
Cal.. .
Ariz. ..
N. M...

100

1600
250
950

Terrace
Texas Hill
Thenard
The Palms
Thfrmal
Thisbe
Thompson
Tipton

Utah...
Ariz....
Cal
Cal
Cal.
Nev....
Cal

100

'"ibo

Willcox
Williams
Willows
Wlllsburg
Wilmington —
Wilmox
Wllna

4164
84
136

9
2664
4557
4333
5723
201

Cal...

300
123

Winnemucca...
wt nsted
Wiuthrop
Winters
Wolf Creek
Woodbrldge....

Nev .

Cal
Cal
Cal
Or
Cal

2000

'"600
15
250

Toano
Tokay

Nev....
Cal

Toltec

Ariz. ..

Tormey
Tortuga

Cal
Cal

::::::::

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.
INDEX TO STATIONS-CONTINUED.

259

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Populatlou

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

STATIONS

State
or
Terr'ty

Population

Elevation

Miles from
S. Francisco

Wolfskill

Cal

74 85

Yountville

Cal

500

107

55 05

Woodburn
Woodville

Or...
Or...

300
100

741
465

Yuba
YubaPass....

Cal

Cal...

600

71
5500

141
178

Woolsey

Nev.

4008

348

Yuma

Ariz....

1200

140

730 9

Woodstock

Or...

Cal...

J91

Woodland

Cal

450Q

£»q

85 95

Cal

Wrights ...

Cal...

150

990

Zuleka . . .

Cal...

.......

Yolo

Cal...

300

90.86

Zunl

N. M...

4187

Toncalla

606

COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE "NORTHERN
DIVISION" OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY.

CALIFORNIA.

Stations.

Population.

Elevation.

Dist. from
San Francisco.

Stations.

Population.

a
_o

e8
>
05

Dist. from
San Francisco. 1

Alamitos

191

2500

125

200

348

Monte Vista

740

119

300

102

112

Morocojo

112

Mountain View

500

115

Murphys .

250

Oak Grove

Bernal

Ocean View

^on

293

Bolsa

177

Pajaro

i on

Bradley

100

539

196

Paso Robles

ftnn

723

216

Carnaden

168

183

Perrys

299

Castroville

600

110

Redwood'

1800

Cuolone. ....

232

152

Salinas

2600

118

Chualar

i'o'6

103

129

San Andres

153

106

Coburns. .. ..

259

158

150

452

j Q.J

Colma

100

171

Coopers

113

San Carlos

Coyote

225

251

g50QOO

Eden Vale

180

25000

* "K'/I

Fair Oaks....

San Lucas .

100

396

1 72

Gilroy

2200

1 QQ

San Mateo

950

350

1 27

135

San Miguel

700

616

207

2fi7

Santa Clara

3000

Hillsdale..

147

Santa Cruz

7500

121

Hollister

2000

284

Sargents

100

135

Kings City

150

332

163

Soledad

300

182

143

Lawrences ... .

150

350

115

150

320

116

Spences ... . ...

125

Madrone . ...

344

327

113

773

222

Maytield

900

onn

514

101

Menlo Park...

500

Watson ville

2500

101

Millbrae

200

ADDENDA.

CONTAINING ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

RELATIVE TO

CITIES, TOWNS, AND POINTS OF INTEREST

DESCRIBED IN THIS VOLUME.

PASADENA.

Its Advantages over other Localities. Its Climate and
Growth. A Health Resort and Business Centre.

||UTSIDE of Los Angeles, Pasadena is more widely and favorably known
^^ than any city in Southern California. Other towns may possess many of its
characteristics, but Pasadena claims to be the central point or focus of all that is
good in the country. It is said, and truly, that one can find in New York almost
everything obtainable in the entire country and a great part of Europe ; so, as
regards Pasadena, its citizens claim that it possesses the good qualities of almost
every section of the state, without the bad ones.

The claims of Pasadena may be summed up briefly as follows : (i) A climate
that challenges the world. If this may seem an exaggeration the reader is invited
to communicate with the President of the Pasadena Board of Trade, who will pro-
vide the names of persons who have traveled over the entire globe and selected this
section as the finest, all things considered. (2) Unrivaled scenic beauties. (3) Rich-
ness of soil and kindred advantages to the farmer. (4) A railroad centre. (5) The
most fashionable winter resort on the Pacific slope. These are some of the
features that have built up Pasadena from a village of 2,500 inhabitants four years
ago to a busy city of 15,000 to day, and a winter population of from 18,000 to
25,000 souls. The people that come to Pasadena are of four classes. First,
wealthy tourists ; second, invalids, rich and poor ; third, home seekers, who must
earn a living, and fourth, wealthy home seekers.

The reader is presumably one of these. He or she is going the rounds of the
Southern California towns in search of a home, health or pleasure, and wishes to
know in a few words exactly what Pasadena has to offer. If you belong to the first
class mentioned and have come to Pasadena to spend your time agreeably, this
city has everything to offer. The Raymond Hotel is one of the best equipped west
of New York, and boasts the finest scenery from its piazzas in the country.
Painters', Websters', the Carleton, and several others, will give you the best of
accommodations at different altitudes and prices. Four miles from the city the
Sierra Madres rise to an elevation of from six to eight thousand feet. The range
abounds in canons and drives of the greatest beauty ; falls, cascades, trout streams,
caves, deep gulches, trails leading to the summit, and a thousand and one novel
features, affording the tourist a new pleasure every day in the year. It is this
feature which has made Pasadena the great fashionable winter resort of America.
Tourists do not want climate alone ; they are paying for amusement, and in its
drives and innumerable natural beauties Pasadena is unexcelled. Nine miles from
Los Angeles, twenty from Santa Monica and sea bathing, with the finest opera
house in Southern California, the tourist has every facility for pleasure and enjoy-
ment. The hunting is good, and out door life can be counted on nearly any day
in the true land of flowers.

What can the invalid expect ? Pasadena lies about twenty-five miles from the
ocean, at the head of the San Gabriel valley, environed by mountains on three
sides. The altitude of South Pasadena is about 800 feet ; of North Pasadena, at
Wilson's Peak, about 6,000. Good hotels and boarding houses are found up to the

2fi1

2,500 feet elevation, with camps higher up ; so you can take your choice. Pasadena
winters, from November to May, remind one of New England or Ohio in October.
It is cold often in the morning and evening, and you will sometimes see frost and a
little ice in low places ; but roses and all the plants bloom every day in winter, which
tells the story of the climate. It may seem cold, but when flowers grow out of
doors, and semi-tropic ones at that, the invalid need not fear a blizzard. The
mean for winter, taking January as an example, is 53 ; that of Jacksonville, Fla.,
55. There is rarely a wind sufficient to blow off one's hat. One thunder storm a
year is the average, and then in the mountains only, as a rule. The sudden changes
of the east are unknown. The difference between winter and summer is expressed
by fifteen degrees. The seasons melt one into the other. There is an almost
entire absence of sudden storms. Cyclones, blizzards, tornadoes, as they occur at
the east, are here unknown.

The winter is the rainy season, during which twenty inches of rain falls here
upon an average. The annual fall at Jacksonville, Fla., is 55.94. Hence there is
no malaria-producing element here. The climate is moderately dry — the mean
annual humidity is 56. The winter begins with the vintage, the country grows
green, and ends with the flowering of the peach and other fruits. At Christmas
the wild flowers are at their best and the orange groves burdened with fruit.

The Pasadena summer is far more comfortable than the same season in any
eastern city. The mean summer temperature, taking July as an example is 67 ;
that of Jacksonville, Fla., 83. Sunstroke is unknown. The nights are invariably
cool. A casual glance at these features will show that Pasadena claims the good
features of all other health resorts, except those, as Yuma, where the maximum of
dryness is found. Jacksonville, Fla.. offers a season of from November to April
with semi-tropical conditions and possible malaria. Invalids must, as a rule, go
north in summer, so cannot spend any extended season in the spot of their choice ;
yet it is well known that consumption cannot be cured in six months.

Pasadena, on the other hand, offers a residence winter and summer under the
most favorable conditions, and more, in a locality where the poor man has a chance of
being self supporting in a rich and rapidly growing community. It offers the widest
range of climates. In two hours from Pasadena one may find the sea shore, or
localities six or eight thousand feet above it ; and almost every possible condition,
from the elevated, hot mesa to the deep, moist canon. It is this variety of climates
which has given Pasadena its world-wide fame. Pasadena, then, is the land of
out door life. Here one finds at least three hundred and thirty days in the year
which the invalid can spend in the open sunlight, and thus receive the only true
cure for lung troubles,

The greatest test of the curative property of Pasadena's offerings lies in the
number of persons who have been benefitted by coming here. They are legion.
She does not offer a panacea for all the ills that flesh is heir to ; or claim to restore
invalids given up by doctors in the east ; but to those who come in time and take
the advice of competent local physicians, every inducement is offered.

HOME SEEKERS.

The third class interested in Pasadena are home seekers who are dependent
upon their labor for support. These are pouring into Southern California in a
steady stream, and Pasadena itself is one of the results. The workingman will
find here a city of 15,000 inhabitants, swelling in the winter season to almost
twice the number. The city, formerly a vast orange grove, is now laid out into
streets and blocks, with miles of cement sidewalks and graded streets, four or five
lines of horse cars, electric lights, elegant churches of every denomination, secret
societies, five or six banks, four distinct railroads — two being transcontinental,

262

opera house, hotels, club houses, rows of brick blocks, elegant villas, manufacto-
ries and industries of all kinds. In fact, Pasadena lacks but one thing, which you
will find in every perfect town in the east, and this is the saloon. It is a temper-
ance town. There are schools, young men's Christian association, and half a
million dollars invested in churches and church property, but nqt one cent in the
liquor business.

Without going into particulars, almost every industry found in eastern towns
obtains here ; and the workingman, the professional, artisan, or other worker, will
find the same opportunity here as elsewhere. The city is barely two years old in
its present form, yet it has brick yards, planing mills, fruit canning establishments,
steam laundries, gas works, cold storage warehouses, ice manufactories, and busi-
ness enterprises of great variety, representing a vast amount of capital.

The workingman, perhaps driven from the east by severe winters, where the
cold is a menace, as winter comes on finds here a great contrast. If he cannot
afford a fire his children feel chilly on winter nights instead of freezing, and summer
comes every winter day from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m. The farmer or agriculturist finds
an open season the year round. While in January in Ohio he was snowed up,
Christmas here finds barley either up or ploughing going on. There is something
growing all the time ; six crops of fodder (alfalfa) for the cattle, and other things
in proportion. In Florida, grass, milk, apples, pears, nuts, butter, peaches, etc.,
are scarce or unknown. In a Pasadena workingman's home of from one to ten
acres, you will find the following, and note carefully the contrast, as it tells the
story in <*. word of the agricultural possibilities of this section : Apples, guavas,
peaches, grapes, oranges, currants, limes, stiawberries, and all small fruits, loquat,
pomegranates, pears, walnuts, chestnuts, bananas, almonds, lemons, figs, and
every fruit, flower, shrub, or tree, from the semi-tropics to the shores of the north-
ern ocean. In fact, fruits and flowers of all kinds find common ground here ; the
cork tree and the sturdy pine grow side by side with the magnolia and banana.

The orange, lemon and grape industries are the most important and constitute
the out door industries in which the most capital is invested. Near Pasadena are
two of the largest wineries in the country, while sheep, horses, pigs and ostriches
are among the valuable live stock. The settler will do well to investigate Pasadena
and its outlying country before selecting a home. Its schools, society, and lack of
saloons commend it to every thinking man and woman.

WEALTHY HOME SEEKERS.

Pasadena is one of the wealthiest places in Southern California. Its beauty,
>fcs grand position, environed by hills and mountains, with views or vistas unparal-
leled stretching away, have attracted wealthy and cultivated people from all over
the world, who have selected homes here and erected elegant villas, costing from
ten to fifty thousand dollars. Pasadena boasts that over twenty millionaires spend
part of their money here, and in all probability no place of its size west of Chicago
possesses so many wealthy men. The city is made up in a great part of the homes
of wealthy men. Orange Grove avenue, Colorado, and the adjacent streets and
avenues show what taste, culture and unlimited wealth can produce. The social
conditions are as perfect in Pasadena as can be found in any city of the east a cen-
tury old. There is no rough element here. Many judge this section by Colorado
and other western towns, but the opposite is the case. Pasadena, in its social
organization, is made up of the cream of other cities of the Union, and so presents
an attractive outlook to the home seeker. Further inquiries regarding Pasadena
may be addressed to the President of the Pasadena Board of Trade, Pasadena, Los
Angeles Co., Southern California.

POMONH, SOUTHERN CHLIFORNIR.

Midway between the cities of Los Angeles and San Bernardino, encompassed
by picturesque foot-hills, over which the Cucamonga mountains, San Antonio peak,
Old Grayback and San Jacinto, like sentinels, stand guard, is the beautiful and
fertile section of Pomona. At a point where a low spur of the coast range, called
San Jose hilts, debouches into the valley, penetrating almost to its center, the
City of Pomona lies at our feet, with its fine broad avenues, lined and shaded with
the majestic evergreen Eucalyptus and the beautiful fragrant pepper trees, the
semi-tropical palms and magnolias, its many miles of cement walks, beautiful
homes and cottages, nice flower and grass plots, encircled by its grand and beau
tiful orange and lemon groves and thousands of acres in peaches, pears, prunes,
apricots, nectarines, plums, pomegranates and all varieties of other fruits and berries.

For the lover of horticulture and fine homes a grander sight can not be seen.

Pomona contains an intelligent population of Jive thousand refined people.
Its church and school privileges are excellent. There are eleven church buildings,
each supported by large flourishing congregations.

The Climate has few equals but no superior in Southern California.
The mountains to the north and northwest shut out the cold and hot desert winds
entirely. The breeze from the ocean — which we have daily from May to Novem-
ber— thirty-five miles away, is less moist than near the coast, and is subdued and
softened by sweeping over the intervening low hills and warm plains.

Temperature, The mean average heat of July and cold of January, in
the principal cities of Southern California, is as follows :

Cold. Heat. Difference.

POMONA,- - - 52° 68° 16°

Los ANGELES, 52 67 15

SAN DIEGO, ... 52 66 14

SANTA BARBARA, - 52 66 14

SAN BERNARDINO, - 51 70 19

The daily mean temperature at Pomona for May, June, August and September
is respectively 62°, 64°, 68°, 72°, testifying that days of extreme heat seldom occur.

Come to Southern California over the " Santa Fe " or the " Sunset " route,
get a stop-over at Pomona, and see our Loveliest Valley of the Plains.

E ducat ional. The Pomona College, now being erected will be an institu-
tion of learning second to none on this coast. A brick and stone building of
architectural beauty, 103x81 feet three stories and basement. The basement
was completed (Sept. '88) and work on the building will progress rapidly. The
trustees will erect buildings of equal character for the various departments as
needed. The brick for the building are made on the grounds, and the stone
quarried near by. The college is located on Piedmont Mesa, overlooking the
whole valley. Altitude 1500 feet above the sea. The faculty has procured
temporary quarters in the city and the collegiate course is now taught by an able
corps of professors.

Our Public Schools are graded There are four large school buildings, and
the plans are made for a fine large brick school to cost $35,000. The attendance
is over six hundred pupils, who are taught by an able corps of twelve teachers.

Water. There are three sources of supply for irrigation, viz.: mountain
creek, springs and artesian wells.

The water from the mountains — San Antonio Creek — piped a distance of ten
miles into the valley — a system complete in itself — is a large source of supply.
Numerous springs encircle the valley fed by subterranean streams from the high
mountains. These sources of supply are yet to be fully developed, as no occasion
has arisen to demand it. There are in this valley, within two miles of the City of
Pomona, over one hundred artesian wells, giving an undiminished flow.

Our Pipe System for distributing the waters is the most complete in Southern
California ; there are now over seventy-five miles (396,000 feet) of pipes laid — no
open ditches — to convey these waters to the highest point on each 10, 20 or 40 acre
tract of land, without loss of leakage or evaporation, and new lines of pipe are
constantly added as needed

The perpetual right to use these -waters — free of cost — for irrigation is sold with
the land.

The abundant supply of water and the excellent distribution of the same,
surpasses any other settlement or system in Southern California.

265

Fruits. The fruits of Southern California are known world-wide. The com-
•vnation of rich, mellow soil, well watered, with sunny, balmy atmosphere, can pro-
duce nothing less than the most delightful, luscious fruits of all kinds ; and some —
notably the citrus and semi-tropical — of superior excellence. All deciduous fruits
are, and have been grown here with the greatest success. Berries and small fruits
ripen early. Orange and lemon trees grow luxuriantly, and the fruit commands as
high prices as any in the market. The upper lands are especially adapted to the
culture of these fruits as well as the fig, olive, and all semi-tropical fruits. The
enormous profits of olive culture are almost incredible, and invite the general
cultivation of this beautiful tree and profitable fruit in this locatity. Besides the
orange, lemon, olive,, fig berries and other fruits, we raise as fine vegetables, corn,
alfalfa, etc., as the world can produce.

Fertility and Productiveness of the Soil. The soil is gener-
ally of sandy, gravelly loam, very deep, easily cleared and cultivated, and very
productive. From its composition and admirable drainage no danger of malarial
diseases is to be feared from irrigation as in soils of a heavier texture or adobe
formation. Owing to this peculiar formation tourists and others find drivi g upon
the thoroughfares a source of pleasure, because of the absence of dust in summer
and mud in winter.

Lands with free water-right are worth $150 and upwards per acre; improved,
$250 to $1,500 — according to locality and improvements. Moist lands in the lower
valley suitable for deciduous fruits and vegetables without irrigation can be had for
$125 and upwards per acre.

An authority says : " We believe — no panic or calamity interposing — that in
the next ten years it will be very difficult to buy any desirable lands with water,
suitable for orange or raisin growing, in Southern California for less than $1,000'
per acre."

Railroads. Pomona is destined to be a great railroad center of no mean
importance. Already we have the two great trans-continental systems, the " Santa
Fe" and the "Sunset" routes, running through our valley and city, both having fine
large depot buildings. All trains on these routes make regular stops. This is the
terminus of the Pomona, P^lsinore and San Diego R. R , now partly graded, on
which cars will be running within six months. This, being an independent line,
will have machine shops and terminal facilities located here. Pomona is, also, the
terminus of the Pomona, Olinda and Anaheim R. R., giving us four independent
lines of road direct to the grand Pacific ocean. We have a steam motor line with
three miles of road in operation and will soon be extended to the mountains, also
four independent horse street car lines with over nine miles of road in operation,
diverging in separate directions, on which cars make frequent regular trips every
day of the year.

Business. We have eight large hotels and lodging houses with ample
accommodations for the tourist and traveler. The Pomona Fruit Co. have erected
a two story brick building, 100x32 ft., with basement and additions; have a
capital of $50,000 ; employ 100 to 200 hands — many of them ladies — (no China-
men), and put up twenty tons of fruit daily. They have bought additional
grounds and will erect more buildings this winter and add mills for the pressure
of olive oil. We have three banks, a large opera house, public hall, secret society
halls, sash and door factory and planing mill, two iron pipe factories, cement pipe
works, steam laundry, two wineries, brickyards ; granite, lime, sand and brown
stone for building purposes near the city ; large fine stores, well filled with goods ;
all kinds of trades people; streets and buildings lighted with gas.

Mountain Scenery. The scenery is grand as well as beautiful — beauty
and grandeur, as it were, combined in one sweep of the vision. The lofty Sierra
Madre range north presents strikingly sublime scenery while the immense plain
stretching away to the southward, diversified by roiling grass-covered hills and
lesser mountain ranges, orange groves, orchards, vineyards and attractive homes,
around which perpetual flowers bloom, is a prospect which gives a thrill of new
life to the invalid, starts the sluggish current onward with fresh vigor, and paints
a flush of returning health on the faded cheek. The day is not far hence when this
eminently suited locality will be utilized for the benefit of the thousands who will
come here seeking health. Those who have a tendency to pneumonia, bronchial,
catarrhal, or asthmatic affections, or those otherwise in delicate health, would do
well to avail themselves of this great natural sanitarium, whose atmosphere is
as pure as the breath of innocence and whose zephyrs bear healing upon their
wings.

267

LAMANDA.

A Delightful Resort.

The Gem of the
San Gabriel Valley.

Lamanda is situated 12 miles from Los An-
geles, on the Mesa, north of San Gabriel proper,
and east and adjoining Pasadena in the San Gabriel
Valley. Its elevation varies from six to eighteen hun-
dred feet, and it contains an area of over 6,ox>
acres. In all Southern California no otner spot is
so delightful as the San Gabriel Valley, and to
no other spot do a tithe of the tourists resort that
cluster here. It was in this valley that flourished
the most prosperous of all the many missions,
founded by the Franciscan friars over a century
ago. Of all this fair region they chose this valley
as the most desirable, and although the land
remained in the possession of the unprogressive Mexican for so long a period,
time has proved to the world the wisdom of the choice made by these priests of the
olden time. This valley is justly called the " Italy of America "

The valley proper extends east and west for twenty five miles on both sides of
the San Gabriel River, and from the Sierra Madre Mountains to the ocean; but it
is that portion lying south of the mountains, and comprising a strip of land fifteen
to twenty miles wide and forty miles long, that constitutes the " Garden of Eden "
of modern times.

Here grow, side by side, the Norway pine and the banana, the camphor tree
and the apple, the elm and the palm. The perfection of flowers and shrubbery,
the beautiful lawns and gardens, where almost every variety of trees, plants, and
flowers in the world may be found, could have been grown in no other land in so
short a time, if at all. From autumn to spring and from spring to autumn, there
is no cessation in the growth of vegetation. There are no frosts to blast, no
winters to destroy even the most delicate plants.

Everywhere are cypress hedges, the tall eucalyptus and the spreading pepper
trees, acacias and grevillas, giant palms and cacti, rose trees and calla lilies,
marguerites and magnolias, with trees, shrubs and flowers of every description,
from Australia and New England, from every tropical and every temperate
clime.

To the north rises the Sierra Madre Range, its summits reaching up among
the clouds to a height of 7,000 feet. The scarred and seamed outlines of these
mighty monuments, that guard the valley from arctic evils, present a picture of
awe-inspiring grandeur and sublimity — -a picture that is unsurpassed even among
the Alps. Down the canon-creased sides of these eternal hills ripple the cool
mountain streams, now laughing along in foaming cascades and anon wreathing
some precipice with rainbow spray as the sparkling waters take their wingless leap
down to the ragged rocks a hundred feet below, and then murmur adown the
widening canon and under the spreading branches of gnarled and picturesque live-
oaks, which seem as aged as the gray granite boulders whose fantastic figures
frown around. Scenes of rugged beauty and pastoral enchantment everywhere
alternate. No other land is so lovely as this valley; no other spot knows such
ideal, happy homes.

The northern portion of this Eden-land has an altitude of from 1,000 to
1,500 feet above the level of the sea, and the atmosphere is exceedingly pure and
entirely free from malaria. Its dryness renders the air especially beneficial to
those whose lungs are diseased. Invalids come here by the hundreds, and in
every instance, where they are not past all hope, they speedily find that precious
boon which they have sought in vain in every other clime. Remarkable, indeed,
is the record of cures wrought by this wonderful climate. Consumptives, whom
physicians of the East had declared past all help, have come here, and in a few
weeks have shaken off the fetters of that Eastern ice-born curse, and are to-day
enjoying perfect health. Is it strange that they are happy ? that they love this
sunny southland ? Would to God that the hundreds of thousands in the East who
are slowly dying might come hither! What is more blessed than to see the light of
hope wake in the invalid's eye, and the flush of returning health spread over the
cheek, to note the form grow supple and the step elastic, to watch the smile of
happiness and contentment grow over the careworn visage with the assurance of
complete restoration! The San Gabriel Valley is an Eden to him who possesses
health, a Paradise to him who here finds it. The soil is remarkably well adapted
to fruit culture, and it contains some of the largest fruit ranches in Southern
California. The water system is one of the best, the supply coming from

a69

Precipice Canon, a never-failing mountain stream, and is piped to nearly all parts
of the town. Good wells can also be obtained at from 60 to 100 feet in some
portions. Of the immense immigration that has come to California in the last few
years, Lamanda has received but a small proportion in numbers, but a much la ger
proportion in wealth than many other sections of the San Gabriel Valley, the
result of which is a number of elegant villa residences that would do credit to any
country, noticeable upon the higher elevation where the grand surrounding scenery
and entrancing view make property for residence very desirable. The railroad
service from Lamanda is excellent. Situated, as it is, on the main line of the
Santa Fe, and also the terminus of the Pasadena Branch of that system, give it the
benefit of all trains over these lines. There are now eight trains a day each way,
and a theatre train three nights a week.

South of the railroad lies the celebrated Sunny Slope Estate, the late home of
the Hon. L. J. Rose, now the L. J. Rose Company (limited), an English company
with a capitalization of ,£1,000,000. This ranch contains 650 acres of grapes,
150 acres of orange grove, besides other fruit, grain fields, etc.; and produces
annually over 300,000 gallons of wine and 100,000 gallons of brandy; its largest
orange crop amounted to about 100 car loads of 30,000 boxes; its other produce,
such as hay, grain, etc., is for use upon the ranch.

The machinery and apparatus connected with the winery and distillery are all
of the most improved patterns. The grape crushers have a capacity of 100 tons
of grapes per day, of which there are two. The quality of wine and oranges is well
known throughout the United States, and is destined under its present manage-
ment to soon become world renowned.

As a place of residence Lamanda is unexcelled. The climate, while it is
everywhere delightful, varies in different localities. The severe hot weather which
is supposed to exist here is much of a myth, save in those valleys which lie east of
the first range of mountains where the mercury sometimes registers more than one
hundred, though rarely; while even that far inland something of the influence of
the ocean breeze penetrates, which, with the altitude, renders the nights exceed-
ingly pleasant. In the valleys that extend upward from the ocean toward the
mountains, and at a distance of from fifteen to fifty miles from the ocean, is to be
found the perfection of climate that has rendered this region famous throughout
the world. There are three railroad stations in Lamanda, viz.: Marceline, Fair
Oaks, and Lamanda. The latter is the principal one, and situated at the junction
of the main and branch line of the Santa Fe Railroad. It is called " Park " from the
stately oak that abound in the neighborhood. Here are located the postoffice, stores,
stables, hotel, etc. The stages from the Sierra Madre Villa, and other hotels,
connect with the trains at this station.

The Sierra Madre Vintage Company's Winery is established here. It has a
capacity for crushing fifty tons of grapes per day, and manufacturing a superior
quality of wine and brandy.

'1 he cosy, home-like Brightwood Hotel is directly opposite this station, and
from its central position and excellent table has established a growing reputation.
The home-like character of this ho-telry makes it an especially charming place for
tourists' headquarters. From the shady verandahs of this hotel the tourist can see
a panorama of most beautiful and attractive scenery. Directly to the north are
the Sierra Madre Mountains, to the east stretches the lovely San Gabriel Valley,
dotted here and there with pretty villages, whose church spires gleam whitely
against the blue sky, towering upward from the dark green masses of golden-
fruited orange trees. The hotel is equally distant from Pasadena, Old Mission,
Sunny Slope vineyards, Chapman's orange orchards, Baldwin's great ranche, Sierra
Madre, and the romantic canons of the Sierra Madre Mountains. All of these
places are within an easy carriage ride, and if one have but a day or two to spend
in this valley the "Brightwood " is the best place to make one's headquarters, both
for convenience and comfort. Economy, both of time and money, can be subserved
by directing one's excursions to points of interest in the San Gabriel Valley from,
the Brightwood. Near the hotel is the stables of Henry Eaton & Sons, where good
carriages can be obtained at reasonable rates, and, if desired, drivers well acquainted
with all places of interest in the valley.

Fair Oaks is on the Pasadena branch of the Santa Fe, and the nearest station
»o " Fair Oaks," the home of Hon. J. F. Crank. This grand ranch cc ntains five
hundred acres, and the homestead of Mr. Crank is a bewildering bower of beauty.

Marceline is on the main line of the Santa Fe. It is owned by several wealthy
gentlemen, but has not as yet been put on the market. It is an oak grove,
containing about 250 acres, and will at no distant day be the site of many a fine
residence.

270

MONROVIA.

The Home of Health

In the Heart of the

Monrovia is centrally loc'ated in the San Gabriel
Valley, and is unquestionably a city of great attrac
tions as is to be found in the fairest valley on the
coast. It is situated at the base of the Sierre Madre
Mountains, on a gentle elevation, and commands a

view of the valley for miles in either direction and

of not less than a dozen villages. The mountain

view has often been pronounced the finest in the
Italy of America. ^^ and the Qcean thaf .g yisible away to the 5OUihf

through a break in the Puenta Hills, sends its cool-
ing breezes to fan the valley into refreshing healthfulness. It is situated eight
miles east of Pasadena and seventeen miles northeast of Los Angeles on the
through line of the California Central, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe route
from Kansas City to Los Angeles, and on the surveyed line of the Southern Pacific
Railroad. The site of the town is less than a mile from the base of the Sierras,
and the land slopes gently away to the east, west, and south. From its high eleva-
tion (1,200 feet above the sea) a magnificent view is had of the valley below, that
slopes in a southwesterly direction to the ocean, distant about thirty miles. To
the right lies " lovely Pasadena," with its fine buildings, the great Raymond Hotel
crowning an isolated hilltop like some ancient castle; still nearer is the long
famous Sierra Madre Villa, with its elegant grounds, and the villages of Alhambra,
Lamanda Park, Sierra Madre and Arcadia. To the left are Duarte and Azusa,
separated by the San Gabriel River, whose course is traced down through the valley
uy the shimmering white sands. Farther off are Los Angeles, the "City of the
Angels," and the numerous surrounding villages. Still farther on, Santa Monica,
San Pedro, Wilmington, and Long Beach nestle by the side of the restless mighty
ocean, out on whose bosom rise the blue outlines of Santa Catalina and San Cle-
mente Islands.

The soil is sandy loam, and peculiarly well adapted to raising both citrus and
deciduous fruits, which grow to perfection in this vicinity. Monrovia is but
little more than three years old, the first lot on the site of the town having
been bought on the I7th day of May, 1886. The growth of the place has
been phenomenal, it now having a population of over 2,000. There are two
street car lines, an electric road, and the right of way has been secured for two
other roads A large and handsome school building, two fine churches— the
Methodist and Baptist, costing $8,000 each; the Grand View Hotel, one of the
finest and best conducted in the valley; several other hotels, two handsome bank-
ing buildings, the Granite Bank being one of the finest in the State. The
location of Monrovia has been noticed. The high and rolling ground gives
it a much more sightly view than can be obtained from any of the surround-
ing towns. The ocean and mountain breezes both prevail, and give the place a
remarkably pure and wholesome atmosphere. It is a generally admitted fact that
the highest elevations in the valley are the most healthful, and, as Monrovia is
among the valley towns of greatest elevation, being several hundred feet above
Los Angeles or Pasadena, it is preferred above most other places by invalids.
Here one may spend months in genuine comfort in the enjoyment of the
picturesque scenery of the valley and the rugged grandeur of the mountains. If
he catches the spirit of California enterprise, which all residents have and all
tourists get, and invests in some of the desirable surrounding property, he will
become richer in wealth, as he certainly will in health, with each additional month
spent here.

372

SANTA MONICA.

The
' Gem City by the Sea.

A Charming
Watering Place.

Santa Monica is situated directly on the shore
of the Pacific Ocean, distant seventeen miles nearly
due west from Los Angeles, and about four miles
north from Port Ballona. It contains an area of
nearly five square miles, having a beach frontage of
about two and a half miles, by two miles inland.
Its population at present is estimated at 1,500, with
a transient population of about the same number,
making in all an average population of 3,000.

The superior climatic conditions of Southern
California, as a whole, is a feature which, as it becomes better known, is com-
menteci upon and admired by people from all parts of the world. Southern Cali-
fornia's great prosperity at present is due largely to this fact. It is not enough to
say that competition in fares and freight to this coast has brought this wonderful
development; while this has certainly been a large factor, still it is not the sole
cause. Had Southern California not possessed superior natural advantages for
residence and business purposes, the immense number of people from all parts of
the East who came here during the recent low rates of fare would not have
remained and invested their means.

The townsite of Santa Monica comprises a part of the famous rancho San
Vicente, a large holding of 30,000 acres or more. In 1875 the Hon. John P.
Jones, the famous Nevada mining king (and who has since become United States
Senator from his State, who at that time owned large mining interests in the Cerro
Gordo district, situated near the Nevada line of California, two hundred miles
distant from the coast), being desirous of an outlet by rail from his extensive
mines, determined to build a railroad to Los Angeles and the coast. Accordingly,
he came down, " looked the field over," and purchased a three-quarters interest in
the famous ranches known as the "San Vicente" and the "Boca de Santa
Monica," two large Spanish grants, comprising 36,000 acres of land. The price
paid was $155,000, which amount was to be expended toward building the above-
mentioned road, since known as the Los Angeles & Independence road. Work on
the road began immediately, and was pushed rapidly.

A small tract, comprising the original townsite of Santa Monica, was sub-
divided into lots of 50x150 feet, and sold at auction, the sale beginning on the isth
day of July, 1875. The first lot sold was purchased by E. R. Zamoyski, for which
he paid $510. The auction sale, which continued for three days and nights, took
place on the grounds during the day, and at the Pico House, in Los Angeles, at
night. During this time about twenty blocks of lots were sold, ranging in price
from $125 to $510, aggregating nearly $200,000. These lots have since become
the principal business properties of the town, and have increased in value more
*.han ten-fold.

Things went well for a time; work on the road progressed rapidly. A wharf
1,700 feet in length was built in the meantime, capable of accommodating the
largest of Panama vessels, many of which lay there for days and weeks discharging
their cargoes. The wharf being built and the road completed as far as Los
Angeles, the first train passed over the road from Santa Monica to Los Angeles in
September, 1875. This marked an epoch in the history of Santa Monica long to
be remembered.

Santa Monica's prosperity for the first two years of its history was, indeed,
phenomenal. The freight traffic was large, passenger movements were heavy,
real estate sales were rapid. The building operations were active; houses, both
for business purposes and residences, sprang up on every hand, as if by magic;
land enhanced in value rapidly; industries of almost every kind were established,

2/4

and withal Santa Monica enjoyed a period of prosperity, the degree of which is
seldom attained — even by new towns of Southern California to-day. Had the
circumstances surrounding Santa Monica been favorable rather than otherwise,
had the wharf and railroad continued under the management of their projectors,
thus securing to the new port the bulk of San Francisco's steamer shipments to
Southern California, as well as the foreign ocean passenger and freight traffic, the
present commercial importance of Santa Monica can only be surmised. It is safe
to say that it would have been one of the largest cities of Southern California.

While Santa Monica's climate has many features common to all of Southern
California, still some features are peculiarly its own. The temperature is very
much less variable here during the day, and during the season as well, than at most
of the interior towns. Thus the thermometer rarely indicates a temperature below
40 degrees above zero, even in winter, and seldom reaches 90 degrees in the shade,
during the warmest days of summer. At no time during the season does the
temperature vary throughout the day more than 20 degrees. A constant sea-breeze
fans the shore for miles distant the year round. Thus one continuous summer is
realized in this favored spot, where flowers bloom constantly and fruits ripen in
every month during the year.

The soil of this valley is wondrously fertile. A plentiful supply of water
abounds throughout the valley, products of all kinds common to semi-tropical
climates grow luxuriantly and yield largely. The soil near the coast is of a rich,
sandy loam; as the mountains are reached, it partakes slightly of the nature of
adobe, a very rich, dark, clayey soil.

The water supply of Santa Monica is equal to that of any town or valley in
the State. There is enough water in the valley, if developed, to irrigate from
5,000 to 10,000 acres of land, besides supplying for domestic purposes a city of
50,000 inhabitants. The source is the streams from the Santa Monica Mountains,
two miles distant from the town, nearly due north. Three to four streams are
found in these mountains, which by development will yield 500 miner's inches, equal
to a constant flow of 6 500,000 gallons every twenty-four hours. The source being
situated 300 feet above the town site, a pressure of 150 feet per mile is obtained
sufficient to throw a stream to the top of the highest building. At present the
water is conveyed through iron pipes along the principal streets of the town.

The railroad facilities of Santa Monica are excellent. Being on a branch line
of the great Southern Pacific trans-continental system, it has direct communication
with Los Angeles and other commercial cities.

Through the kindness of the courteous and genial station agent, the following
facts were learned: Number of trains arriving and departing daily, eight (three
passenger and one freight train each way). On Sundays twelve passenger trains
arrive and depart regularly, to accommodate the immense passenger movement
during the watering season. To accommodate the rapidly increasing demand for
more yard-room the company will soon have completed two miles of side track.

The agricultural and horticultural products of the valley surrounding Santa
Monica are all that could be desired. Fruits of all kinds, both citrus and decidu-
ous, including oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, figs, peaches, pears, apricots,
nectarines, quinces, etc., grow luxuriantly and yield largely. Small fruits of all
kinds, including strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, etc.,
are grown extensively, and yield handsome profits.

Vegetables of all kinds, potatoes, cabbage, turnips, water melons, pumpkins,
beets, lettuce, asparagus, etc., are grown largely and yield bountifully.

Grain of all kinds, including wheat, barley, oats, rye, corn, etc., also alfalfa
hay, yield largely.

The superior advantages of Santa Monica for residence and business purposes,
are readily apparent. Its unsurpassed climate, magnificent water supply, proximity
to Los Angeles, superb mountain scenery, excellent surf-bathing, and great
diversity of agricultural and horticultural products, all combine to make this one of
the most desirable places for homes in Southern California.

375

BEHCH*

Long Beach is twenty two miles south of Los Angeles, on the S. P. R. R.,
situated upon a bluff of medium altitude, overlooking San Pedro Bay and the
Ocean toward the south, with Santa Catalina Islands in plain view twenty-five
miles out to sea.

To the east, north and west is a magnificent view of mountain scenery, Santa
Ana, Sierra Madre and Santa Monica Ranges, which bound the great valley on the
three sides.

Long Beach is the chosen sea-side resort for a number of prosperous cities and
towns, Los Angeles, Pasadena, Monrovia, Riverside, San Bernardino, Ontario, Po-
mona, Whittier, Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim and others.

The Beach at low tide is hard, smoothe and level, making the grandest boule-
vard on earth.

For a distance of seven or eight miles, twenty teams can drive abreast, the
sand being so firmly packed by the action of the tide, that the wheels of the car-
riages make little or no impression upon it. Not unfrequently the shore bordering
the water's edge is strewn with millions of little clams, the shells of which are ex-
tremely handsome ; no two exactly alike in marks, color or shading.

Other varieties of pretty shells are also to be found, the searching for which is
a pleasing and exciting pastime.

Large schools of porpoises and sea lions are frequently to be seen sporting
on the water near the shore.

Long Beach has an intelligent, refined and moral class of citizens, excellent
public schools; three church societies. No saloons ; enterprising business men and
a live newspaper, •' THE LONG BEACH JOURNAL."

" AS OTHERS SEE US."

" The beach is positively the finest in the world; I have dipped in the water
at Trouville, at Brighton, have dived in the surf at Long Branch and Cuney Island,
and of course have not neglected Monterey or Santa Cruz, but there is no beach
like Long Beach, and this I claim will be conceded by every fair minded person.

" Standing upon the shore looking in a south easterly direction as far as the
eye can discern, lies the broad expanse and boundless deep of the Pacific Ocean,
heaving and swelling with majestic pride, as it bears upon its indigo-tinted sur-
face innumerable ships, ocean steamers and seafaring crafts of every variety to
and from all parts of 'the globe.

" Add to this scene the commanding and stately outlines of the Catalina
Islands, anchored by nature in the depth of the sea, twenty miles distant, and the
snow-white surf rushing headlong upon the beach, wafting the briny-tainted
waves upon the numerous bathers arrayed in their variegated costumes, you behold
a scene which cannot be portrayed by the artist's touch or possibly conceived by
visiting the sea shore at any other point yet discovered. Such is the verdict of the
thousands of people who enjoy the pleasures of Long Beach annually, many of
whom have visited every sea- side resort of note upon the continent." — Editoi of
Pasadena Call.

" I think Long Beach has the best sea beach I have ever seen. It is certainly
better in every respect than Coney Island, Far Rockaway, or Cape May. It is
immensely superior to Nantasket. It is more attractive than Newport. One need
not go to Birkenhead, or Deppe either. They can be found in California, if you
will look for them." — Prof. J. W. Redway, Geographer of New York.

" All in all, taking Long Beach city and Long Beach seashore resort as a
whole, it is our opinion that no more favored spot can be found on earth, afford-
ing as it does a combination of unequaled climate, mountain, valley and ocean
scenery, surf bathing, etc."

" We never supposed it possible to visit a point where the beauties and nat-
ural advantages surrounding would so completely overwhelm us with admiration,
We could write a book in expatiating upon this lovely spot, and then the half
would not be told." 2??

ONTARIO.

The Koot-Hill Paradise of Southern
California.

ONTARIO is situated in the County of San Bernardino, on the southern slope
of the Sierra Madre, just on the borders of Los Angeles County, and enjoys
an altitude varying all the way from 900 to 2500 feet above the level of the sea.
It is on the height of land between the San Bernardino Range of Mountains, 40
miles to the east, and the Pacific Ocean, 40 miles to the west. It occupied* this
entire ridge, extending from the Sierra Madre eight miles south, with a width vary-
ing from three to four miles, and overlooks the great San Bernardino Valley in all
directions, affording a most entrancing view of mountain, valley, foot-hill and
plain, with towns and orange groves everywhere intermingled. The four highest
peaks of Southern California are always before the eye, viz : Mount San Antonio
(Old Baldy) adjoining the Ontario Tract on the north ; old Grayback and Mount
San Bernardino to the east; and San Jacinto to the south-east. These majestic
snow-capped peaks, towering above their fellows and glistening in the brilliant
sunlight, afford a pleasing contrast to the luxuriant semi-tropical growth of the
cultivated valley. Here on the upper slope of Ontario we find Orange Groves
breathing their delightful fragrance upon the balmy air, free from any suggestion
of cold and beyond the reach of blighting frosts, whilst eight or nine miles away
the eternal snows keep their silent vigil. Nowhere, probably, on the face of
the Globe are Winter and Summer brought into such close juxtaposition. Per-
petual summer and eternal winter clasping hands across San Antonio Canon !
The spectacle is an extraordinary one, and the more it is considered the more
wonderful it becomes

THE BEGINNING.

Six years ago the I7th of March of this year the initial improvement was
begun in the now well-known and justly celebrated " Model Colony" of California,
by laying the corner stone of the first building. Then there was nothing visible
but the bare plain, hemmed in on every side save the west by the everlasting
mountains, which afford such effectual protection from the rude northern and
eastern blasts ; the openings through the modest Coast Foot Hills inviting the soft
and balmy Pacific breezes — the veritable "Winds of the Western Sea" — into this
mountain embraced Garden of the Gods. But six short years have witnessed a
marvelous transformation indeed. The uninhabited wilderness, treeless and
desolate, with no house anywhere within the range of vision, the playground of the
Jack Rabbit and the home of the Coyote, has been, in all truth and soberness, made
to blossom as the Rose. The wand of the magician, water, has been waved over the
land. Industrious, thrifty settlers have been charmed by its scenic grandeur; capti-
vated by its wondrously perfect climate; impressed by the abundance of its pure,
clear, sparkling water from ' the cool grottos and crystal mountain streams ; and
altogether won by the extraordinary wealth lying latent in its deep, rich orange soil.
So, to-day, instead of a dreary waste of sage brush, without a solitary habitation to
break the monotony, are now to be found two flourishing towns, with palatial
brick blocks, schools, colleges and churches ; and pleasant homes bedecked with

279

flowers, festooned in leafy plant and growing vine, and enshrined in the hearts jf
a contented and happy people, whilst around these towns are scores of beautiful
homesteads, constantly multiplying and ever increasing in attractiveness, em-
bowered in orange groves and encircled with ornate evergreen hedges, that to be
appreciated must be seen. Some may be tempted to ask whether the days of
miracles are past. It really seems that such a complete transformation could not
possibly be effected in the short time named. But the facts are exactly as stated,
and the circumstances are now matters of history. From a howling wilderness to
a smiling garden ; from a bare, deserted, barren plain, to populous, thriving towns,
with all the accessories of the higher civilization — and all in the short space of five
years ! verily, this is Wonderland.

CITRUS CONDITIONS.

For the cultivation of the orange, the lemon and the lime, the best authorities
state plainly and pointedly that Ontario not only has no superior but NO EQUAL in
America, if indeed in the world. This is on the authority of such able and
experienced Horticultural Journals as the Pacific Fruit Grower, the Rural Call-
fornian, etc.; and expert, scientific horticulturists who have devoted their lives to
orange culture. Such testimony is valuable and flattering in the extreme, but what
is of still greater value — the proof is now forthcoming from the Ontario groves
themselves. These young groves, free from all manner of smut and scale; bright,
clean and beautiful, have produced this year from $300 to $500 per acre, with trees
less than FOUR YEARS OLD! Some three-year-old trees have produced a box each
of perfect oranges, about what would be expected in Florida, for instance, from
trees eight to ten years of age. From such facts it can easily be gathered that the
Ontario land is intrinsically the most valuable in America. In addition to citrus
fruits, nearly all deciduous and other fruits do remarkably well — grow luxuriantly
and bear early and heavily — such, for instance, as olive, peach, apricot, guava,
prune, pear, apple, persimmon, plum, raisin and wine grape, etc , etc

THE WATER SUPPLY

of Ontario has frequently been pronounced its grandest feature, and it really is so.
Its purity is absolute, and its quantity is simply inexhaustible. From the en-
gravings presented herewith, some idea may be formed of the surface flow from the
Crystal Mountain Streams in San Antonio Canon, which foam and fret as they
sweep along the gorges, roar over cataract and cascade, and plunge down preci-
pices, forming picturesque water-falls and here and there deep pools, shaded by
overhanging rock or leaning tree, and thickly flecked with shining Trout, such as
fill the hearts of disciples of the gentle Isaak with admiration, and set them
all aglow with excitement. Of this vast supply all is now permitted to go to waste.
In Southern California " Rivers run bottom side up." So a tunnel was run under
the Canon with a success that was astounding to all save the Engineers, who knew
perfectly well what they were doing and what they might expect. Water was
struck in 2000 feet, and before 3000 was reached it rushed in with such violence as
to carry in great boulders and sweep out the workmen. The tunnel has now been
arched and cemented, and over its level bottom rushes a perfect flood, that can be
doubled or trebled at will should use or necessity ever arise for further supply.

THE CLIMATE

of Ontario is one of its greatest and most alluring attractions. Dr. Widney and
Dr. Lindley of the Medical Practitioner, two leading physicians of the State, pro-
nounce the upper end of the Colony, now known as San Antonio Heights, the

Sanitarium of the Pacific Slope. Here all bronchial, catarrhal, lung, asthmatic
and pulmonary troubles of whatever sort are relieved so far as climate can ac-
complish that end. Hundreds of people have been benefitted and scores of lives
saved by a short residence in this paradise for the afflicted. The elevation of these
Heights is from 2000 to 2400 feet, and the view from them beggars description.
Once beheld it will remain an inspiration for all time. Before the eye is spread out
a perfect panorama of rugged mountain and sloping valley, emerald-clad foot hill
and flower-carpeted vale; towns, hamlets and orange groves; the Pacific Ocean in
the distance glowing like a mirror under the flood of sunlight, with her turreted
islands sleeping peacefully upon her warm bosom. No lover of the beautiful
would ever regret a thousand mile journey for ten minutes upon these Heights on
a perfectly clear day with no fog upon the ocean. The vision stamps itself upon
the memory, and there abides a pleasure to the end of life. And if so much
pleasure is to be derived from so short a visit, what must it be to reside there, in
3. comfortable home, amid such peerless surroundings, with an E ectric Railway to
carry you from your very door to two towns and the depots of two transcontinental
lines of railway in a few minutes ? For San Antonio Heights is laid out on Knes
of beauty, in three-fourth acre lots, with pressure water, in cast iron pipes. It is a
spot to enrapture the most phlegmatic, and will be the i leal residence town of the
great Empire of the West.

THE IMPROVEMENTS

in the Colony are, for its age, remarkable. Two hotels of the value of $50,000
each, besides a half dozen minor ones ; one brick block extending from street to

STATE BANK BLOCK, ONTARIO, CALIFORNIA.

street, $55,000; another now approaching completion. $30,000; a perfectly appointed
brick livery and sales stable, $10,000. These chiefly in the south town. Numer-
ous other brick blocks of lesser note in both towns. The more expensive only
have been enumerated. College, $20,000, with an endowment of $200,000; four
public schools; two costing $10,000 each; three handsome churches completed and

283

two others being commenced; three railway depots, for Ontario is crossed by two
great Transcontinental Lines — the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe — besides having a
local line (the Chino Valley) and an Electric (the Ontario and San Antonio
Heights). Of private residences nothing need be said; they are, of course, every-
where. Of expenditures by the Ontario Land Company, $200,000 have been put
in water pipe, underground and OUT OF SIGHT. There are no open ditches to
invite malaria or breed disease. Where else has a Land Company spent such a vast
sum to insure perfect health to an entire community throughout all future ages ?
There are EIGHTY-TWO MILES of the best stone pipe now laid for irrigation, and
FIFTKEN MILKS more of cast and wrought iron for pressure in the towns. These
are but samples of the improvements, but they are sufficient to indicate what is
going on, and they speak in unmistakable terms of the character and enterprise of
the people. In a word, Ontario is an example to the world to-day of what can be
accomplished by wise foresight and well-directed effort, in a region where Nature
has been more than bountiful with her wealth, and simply lavish in all that goes to
make life pleasant and enjoyable. And yet her progress has really but just com-
menced. Her future is beyond the power of pen to depict or imagination to conceive.
No brawling saloon can disturb her peace, for these dark blots upon the Country's fair
escutcheon are absolutely ruled out of Ontario by a stringent prohibitory clause in
every deed. Her triumphs are the triumphs of morality. Her progress is the
progress of science, of education and of all the arts of peace. The FIRST STONE
laid was that of her college, hence she was founded upon the rock of truth, morality,
intellectual culture, and liberty — as portrayed in the teachings of her foremost
educational institution. Is it any wonder that she has flourished ? and who can
doubt that she will continue as she has begun? only at a constantly increasing
ratio, as a snow ball gathers in weight and dimensions from every additional
revolution. Ontario is a child of destiny. Her future is as assured as the eternal
mountains by which she is surrounded and protected; or the great Sea whose tonic
breath, divested of every atom of moisture by its inland journey, has done so much
to give strength and bloom to her youth. Her activity is but the murmur of the
tread of ages yet to come — the faint sound of the march of the foot-fall of a destiny
that shall shine as the stars and on the outstretched finger of all time sparkle forever.
And here, truly, if anywhere beneath the sun, the citizen is assured of his inalien-
able constitutional rights of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness — and
assured of them too under kindly skies, in a healing atmosphere that is the very
Balm of Gilead, and amid scenic beauty, tropical growth, cultivated society, and
such sense-charming and soul-satisfying surroundings as to leave ttttle to be
desired. Nor can this garden of the Hesperides ever become old, for the bloom
of perpetual youth is in her life-giving atmosphere, her healing sunshine, her
fragrant groves and aromatic plains. On her lofty mountain heights the snows
never melt, but in the enchanting valley of this Land of the Afternoon, bathed in
a flood of slumberous sunbeams, the Rose never fades.

284

COLTON, CAL.

TllIS article on Colton, and the villages and country more or less tribu**r)

thereto, is necessarily brief. It is inserted in this volume by the Coltor.

Board of Trade, and is reliable, except that it will underrate rather than over

estimate her natural and acquired advantages, as a home, a resort, and as a

desirable business centre.

The town is incorporated, has a population of about twenty-five hundred, and
an elevation of nine hundred and sixty feet above sea level.

Colton is situated in the centre of San Bernardino valley, which is ninety miles
long from east to west, has an average width of about fifteen miles, with numerous
small valleys tributary to it. This valley is at once one of the largest, most
productive and best watered valleys in Southern California. The two great trans-
continental lines of the Southern Pacific System, and the Atchison, Topeka and
Santa Fe cross at Colton. We are fifty-eight miles east from Los Angeles, and
one hundred and seventeen miles north from San Diego. Our close proximity to
the seaports of San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Monica, Port Ballona and Santa
Barbara and our direct connections with each of them, renders our maritime
advantages excellent. The soil around Colton is largely a disintegrated granite,
carrying alluvial deposit, rich in vegetable mold, and some sand. It is very porous
also, water percolating freely, making a soil that is dry and spongy, and at the
same time capable of retaining moisture almost an incredible length of time-
Vegetables of every variety are consequently of remarkably quick growth, and
possess the finest qualities of flavor peculiar to their kind.

A very slight difference in elevation determines often the kind of vegetables,
as well as the varieties, and fixes by immutable laws the kinds of fruits and cereals
that shall be raised. To illustrate : potatoes grow luxuriantly anywhere, but in
the market you are asked whether you prefer the mountain or the valley grown
potato. It is also found best to grow different varieties of grapes in different
altitudes. Bananas and dates seldom come to maturity here but may be found
growing in many localities.

To attempt to name the forest, fruit, vegetable, cereal, floral and shrubbery
growth of this valley would be quite impracticable. The catalogue of fruits and
cereals, semitropic and temperate, is complete, and the names of our flowers and
shrubbery are legion. The citrus fruits of Colton Terrace rank equal with the
very best grown on the American continent.

The fruit being absolutely free from fungus and scab, the skin smooth, varie-
ties complete, size above the average, the flavor of each of at least six varieties
decided and perfect, together with the cleanliness and health of the trees, their
luxuriant growth and abundant and unfailing yield, renders the culture of this crop
both pleasing and interesting and among the most lucrative pursuits of the valley.

Our wine cellars represent every variety of sweet and sour wines ; our raisins
command the best market prices, and our table grapes can not be surpassed on the
slopes of Sunny Italy, nor on the vine-clad hills of Spain and France.

Peaches, nectarines, apricots, prunes, and loquots are paying crops, the yield
being sure, and the fruit the most luscious. Choicest cherries and apples are grown
in the foothills.

Home-seekers and invalids have but one question usually to ask, and that
is in regard to climate and water.

Our climate is dry, equable and mild. There is little evaporation from the

soil and very little decomposition of vegetable matter. There is no malaria what-
ever, and no well-defined cases of cholera infantum. The rains fall as the gentlest
April showers of the North, there being scarcely any wind whatever, and only
occasionally a very little thunder or lightning.

Sunstrokes are unknown in the valley on account of the extreme humidity of
the atmosphere. Our nights are always cool in summer. Our winters are very
delightful northern springs.

Nothing can be more pleasing to the traveler en route to this country than to
rise in the morning of some cold winter day and in an hour to glide from the
regions of eternal snows into this valley of perpetual song, sunshine and
flowers. It is not in the memory of the oldest inhabitants that it has snowed in
Colton. An abundance of pure water is obtained in Colton from wells at a depth
of from forty to seventy feet, and also from springs and artesian wells from
two to four miles distant, from which it is conducted 10 us principally in pipes that
have a descent of from forty to sixty feet to the mile; thus insuring sufficient
pressure, and preserving the water pure and clear as if dipped from its sparkling
sources. At present water is supplied by corporate enterprise, but the city shall
undoubtedly have adopted a system of water supply for its citizens by the time this
is in the hands of the reader that will surpass any system in the state, one that can
supply artesian water to its consumers in great abundance and at nominal cost.

It will be seen by the following industrial enterprises that Colton is fast
becoming a manufacturing, as wtll as a railroad centre. In fact there are more
laborers now and constantly employed in (_ olton than find work in any other town
of its size in Southern California.

Slover, or Marble Mountain, is a solitary peak which adjoins the southwestern
corner of our corporate limits, rising to the height of six hundred feet and is a
solid mountain of marble and onyx. The marble is from pure white to jet black
and of excellent quality, as is attested by its use in the construction of the finest
and largest structures in the state. Both the onyx and marble admit of the most
perfect polish. The marble works, at the southern base of the hill, employ about
one hundred hands and are now doubling the capacity of their machinery.

The lime kilns on the west side turn out eight thousand barrels per month of
the finest lime in the state, and are increasing their capacity. The supply of
pressed brick is not equal to the demand upon our kilns. The Southern Pacific
Company alone having given the proprietors an order for five millions of brick.

Our planing mill and sash and blind factory is complete and employs from
forty to sixty hands, turning out as fine doors, blinds, sash, molding and bric-a-brac
as are used in our region.

A pipe factory is just recently located in our midst. The buildings are in
process of erection, and the enterprise promises much for the city in the line of
manufacturing. They will employ about forty hands.

Our cannery is a pride of the city, being one of the best regulated and most
complete in the country. It has a capacity of from fifteen thousand to twenty
thousand cans per day, and employs during the busy season from two hundred and
fifty to four hundred hands daily. The goods of the Colton Packing Company are
found on the shelves of the best grocers in the land. The company can not nearly
supply the demand made upon them.

Our barley crusher, which is operated by water from an irrigating canal, has a
capacity of twenty-five thousand pounds per day. The occupation of fruit cultu-e
is very lucrative, and is the basis of seemingly high prices realized upon real estate
in some portions of our valley.

It passes without comment that our deciduous fruits and berries are among
the most luscious grown in the United States.

As a single illustration of the productiveness of blackberries, permit us to
state that from nine rows of bushes, that were planted between rows of peach
trees, each forty rods long, over four and one-half tons of berries were sold, man)
that were picked were not accounted for, and many dried on the bushes.

The business facilities of Colton are excellent. We have fifty-eight daily
trains running toward six different points of the compass; eighteen of them are
mail trains. We have an electric car line in process of construction to San Ber-
nardino. The California Southern Motor Railroad Company, with headquarters in
Colton, have a line to San Bernardino, a d contemplate in their system an extension
to Arrow Head Hot Springs, Highlands Hot Springs, Mentone, and the eastern
end of the valley; also a line to the Northwest and West connecting Rialto, Etti-
wanda and other towns with Colton; and toward the South, which is building, a
line which will give Riverside and a number of other towns a second direct com-
munication with Colton.

A narrow gauge is now building into the foothills for the purpose of trans-
portation of wood, lumber, bark and ice. We now have over fifty cities, towns
and villages within a radius of sixty miles, all connected with Colton by rail.
These new railroad facilities already begun will place many more towns in commu-
nication with us. Colton is one of the very few towns in Southern California in
and around which the Southern Pacific owns a large interest and where that com-
pany is doing much to advance and prosper the town.

Colton is a shipping point and is the fifth largest in freight receipts on the line
of the S. P. R R. in this state. Large stock and feed yards have recently been
erected here by this company.

This means a great deal to the grain and hay producers of our vicinity. Cattle
are brought here from Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and Sonora, fed here and
reloaded for San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco and the North. Machine
shops have been talked of by the S. P., but nothing has been done as yet toward
locating them here; the number of lines now radiating from this and adjoining
towns will soon make it necessary to have a source of supply and repair in this
immediate region. Many of our hotels, restaurants and boarding houses are good
and their capacities are usually taxed to the utmost. A hundred and fifty room
hotel was begun during June 1888, and as the projector is a practical hotel man of
large experience and means, we look forward to the time when we shall be able to
say our accommodations are as complete as are found in this part of California.
Electric light wires are now spread over our city and these beautiful lights are
fast being considered a necessity with us. We have an extensive wholesale
grocery house, a solid national bank, a daily and weekly newspaper, some good
general stores, nearly every line of commercial trade represented, and two build-
ing associations. The Union Ice Company of Southern California have their
headquarters here.

Our educational religious and social advantages are superior, as our fine
graded school, with a building costing fifteen thousand dollars, numerous churches,
W. C. T. U., Y. W. C. T. U., I. O. G. T., I. O. O. F., free reading room and
public library attest.

And now a word as to enterprises that would prosper here. This is a head-
quarters for fruits. An evaporator would do well here The business of curing
stone fruits, raisins, figs, and berries would prove very lucrative.

Hides and pelts can be brought here from the vast grazing lands of Texas,
Sonora, New Mexico and Arizona, and from the cities of San Diego, Los Angeles,
and every other city and town in Southern California almost directly. Thousands
of cords of oak and hemlock bark are wasting on the mountains not over fifteen
miles from here. This then would make a good centre for a tannery. We have
already hinted at the large number of cattle and sheep that will be unloaded and
fed here. Why, in view of our railroad facilities, would not this be a capital
place for a slaughter house and cold storage institution ? An ice factory is needed.
Pottery and tile works can find good clay here and excellent market. A dairy and
poultry ranch would be one of the most lucrative businesses here. A good carriage
and wagon factory will find the best of material for woodwork at their very doors.
Hundreds of thousands of fruit boxes are imported here year after year; the timber-
is near by, and the demand for such boxes is every year increasing. Any informa-
tion in regard to Colton or sutroundings will be furnished gladly by addressing
the president or secretary of the Colton Board of Trade.

19 2&9

VALLEY.

At the eastern base of the Great San Jacinto mountain, in San Diego coun-
ty, California, and just over the San Bernardino county line, lies the noted Palm
Valley, noted for its unequalled climate; noted for its magnificent scenery; noted
for its fertile soil; noted for its pure snow -.v.iter; noted as the

EARLIEST FRUIT REGION IN CALIFORNIA.

The valley is about 50 miles from Riverside and 120 from Los Angeles, and com-
munication with the cities and markets of the world is had by means of the Palm-
dale railroad, which connects the valley with the Southern Pacific at Seven Palms.

The valley is protected on three sides by high mountains, and the scenery is
grand in the extreme. The great San Jacinto on the west, towe-ing up out of the
valley over 10,000 feet in the most abrupt ascent in the world, effectually shuts out
all possibility of heavy north winds, and such a thing as fog has never been seen in
the valley. Frost, too, is unknown, and the most tender plants and all tropical
fruits mature here in perfection.

The winter climate averages, both day and night, from 7° to 10° warmer than
at Riverside or Los Angeles, and the result of this condition of temperature is
that every variety of fruit matures here from one month to six weeks earlier than
at any other early fruit district in the entite state.

This year (1888) watermelons were shipped from Palm Valley during the
month of May, and those first shipped from any other point came from Lodi,
and arrived in San Francisco July 2d. Ripe Mission grapes were received in San
Francisco from Palm Valley on June iSth, and the earliest Missions are not ex-
pected from any other place before September ist. Many other facts of early pro-
ductions could be stated would space allow. The rapidity of vegetable growth is
astounding. Beans have been known to grow six inches in four days from planting;
grape cuttings show a growth of ten feet in four months; a cypress vine has grown
six inches in a day, and fig trees have grown three feet in a month. The result of this
most rapid and early maturity is that producers can realize immense prices for their
crops, being able to market them at times when there is absolutely no competition.

The Palm Valley Land Company, composed of well known San Francisco
and Riverside capitalists and horticulturists, after proving to their own satisfaction
all these facts, purchased, during the latter part of 1887, all the best available
lands in the valley, and have spent large sums of money in the development and
improvement of the property. They purchased valuable water rights and have
completed a water system as extensive and perfect as that of any plant in the state.
Over 12 miles of stone-walled ditch have been constructed, besides the various
flumes and open earth ditches which complete the system.

The water is pure and plentiful, and each purchaser of land becomes a share-
holder in the Water Company, thereby acquiring a perpetual water right.

The company has built the railroad connecting the valley with the S. P. R. R..
and have planted 160 acres to Naval oranges. This great orchard, THE LARGESl
NAVEL GROVE IN THE WORLD, adjoins the town site — Palmdale— and is held by
the company as a permanent investment. This valley is the natural home of the
orange, and the orchard is in a most thriving condition.

Palmdale, the terminus of the railroad, is a beautiful location, from which a
fine view is had of the entire valley. The streets have been graded and lots will
be offered for sale about November I. 1888.

PALM CANYON.

At the upper end of Palm Valley the mountains close in, until apparently there
is no further advance to be made in that direction. A short walk along a well-
known trail over the hills leads one to a canon, where a scene bursts all at once
upon the vision, the like of which cannot be found elsewhere in all the United
States. The rains of ages have washed the soil from the surrounding mountains,
until it has accumulated in the bottom of a narrow valley, forming an admirable
bed for the growth of all sorts of vegetation. The growth here seen is a most
effective witness to the fertility of the soil and the mildness of the climate of Palm
Valley. As a sanitarium and resort, Palm Valley will soon be famous.

Colony tracts, in size from 5 to 20 acres, are now on sale, and full particulars,
maps and catalogues can be had of the general agents,

BRIGGS, FERGUSSON & CO.,

314 California St. SAN FRANCISCO, CAU

291

SOUTH RIVERSIDE.

THE QUEEN COLONY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA,

RIVERSIDE Town and Colony are situated in the southwest
part of San Bernardino Co., California, in the famous Riverside Orange
belt, on the California Southern Railroad (the Santa Fe system), fifteen miles south-
west of Riverside and forty-four miles from Los Angeles. The Pomona, South
Riverside and Elsinore Railroad is already graded from Pomona to and through
South Riverside and grading has also been commenced at Elsinore, and the road
will soon be open for business. An extension of this road from Elsinore to San
Diego is being surveyed and the probabilities are that the entire road to San Diego
will be completed within a year. The Southern California motor road from San
Bernardino now completed to Riverside, will be completed to South Riverside within
the year. The San Bernardino and South Riverside Railroad has recently been
incorporated and in due time will be constructed. Still another railroad to South
Riverside is proposed. Everything points to South Riverside soon becoming one
of the most important railroad centres in Southern California. The vast resources
of minerals and products of the soil contiguous to South Riverside will make a
large business for railroads. The Town and Colony, but a little more than two
years old, have had a phenomenal growth. They comprise a growing community
and there is room for all seeking to establish themselves in homes or business. A
new place with such a record and such prospects has much to concern the general
reader and claim the attention of the home seekers and careful investors.

All things considered, this tract is unequalled in the great orange belt, it is near
enough to the ocean to get the refreshing breezes, far enough inland, separated by
mountains, to escape the fogs and mists of the coast, while well protected from
nortlrers in winter and scorchers in summer. The greater portion of this tract is a
gentle sloping mesa, choice foot-hill land, from ten to fourteen hundred feet above
sea level.

The air is pure and invigorating, sunshine and clear weather most of the year,
cloudy days the rare exception. Some who have long suffered from lung and
other troubles have received great benefit ; cases almost hopeless have been entirely
cured ; the general effects of the climate are easily seen but not so easily described.
South Riverside will become a great health resort. In the Temescal valley, part
of South Riverside Colony, are the White Sulphur Springs, warm and cold, well
known for their curative properties.

Southern California has gained a world-wide reputation for its winter climate,
and is rapidly becoming a popular resort for all who would escape the rigors of
winter weather east of the Rockies ; the time is not far distant when it will be quite
as favorably known as a summer resort, especially on the beach, and mountain
streams. Strange as this may seem at first it can be verified. Summer in Southern
California does not mean hot days and nights as many think. As a summer and
winter resort, California has no equal; it is the world's sanitarium, pleasure ground,
El Dorado.

This great fruit land tract comprising 15,000 acres, including the Auburndale
subdivision hereinafter mentioned, invites capital workers, capital in brains, active
capital ; here is an open field where well directed effort will have its reward

These fertile lands have long waited the magic touch of water and the husband-
man's skill and thought. Now the change has commenced, in a short time
thousands of acres in trees and vines will yield their golden fruitage. The land is
divided into tracts of two to 10 acres each.

The olive of the Orient will flourish here, and the time is not distant when the
olive oil industry will become one of the most important ones on the South Pacific
coast. Orange culture in this valley has already proved a great success ; and it is
predicted that South Riverside will add to the well known reputation of this orange
belt, and fairly deserve the present appellation, "Queen Colony of the Golden
State," being the natural home of the citrus family, having the rarest climatic
conditions. It must become an active centre for fruit growing and other business,
a thriving place of wealth and influence.

These lands are not low-priced, but they are cheap in view of their productive
worth and the rapid advance that must continue as they improve, and come more
and more in demand. The soil is rich and deep, suited in every way for horti-
culture and capable of untold wealth of products. These orange lands are worth
from $150.00 to $300.00 per acie, including water.

Water is the life of California land. Ample water for this colony is brought
in large pipes from mountain streams, scienegas, springs, artesian wells, etc., piped
to the land ready for irrigation and domestic use. Water rights are sold with the
land, giving owners the right and use of water without further cost.

There are several thousand acres of this land especially adapted to the growth
of oranges, grapes and other choice fruits. The reputation of this section for
orange culture is well established and widely known. The Washington Navel is a
great favorite ; has passed the test of quality and commanded the highest prices in
some of the best markets of the world.

The Town and Colony of South Riverside are unlike any other in the State
for novel design and beauty of location. The town site is in the form of a circle
and all leading streets of the whole tract centre there ; blocks have twelve lots each
50x150 feet ; the streets are broad and well graded, and will be lined with a variety

294

of evergreen trees ; four beautiful parks are designed within the city limits ; the
grand boulevard is one hundred feet wide and three miles long, thus making a
beautiful drive around the circle city of the citrus belt. Young as the town is, it
has schools, churches, hotels, bank and business blocks, handsome dwellings, and
a fine union railway station, buildings all in all that would be a credit to any place.
These improvements, amounting to many thousands of dollars, are modern and
substantial.

The famous Magnolia Avenue of Riverside is now extended across the South
Riverside tract. When completed this will make a continuous avenue one hundred
feet wide and fifteen miles long. It will be one of the finest driveways on the
continent.

South Riverside will become a live manufacturing point for fine crockery ware,
piping, tiling, building material, etc. Water lime of excellent quality, carrying a
large per cent, of cement, is found near by ; granite, porphyry, and gypsum are
found in abundance ; coal of good quality, two good veins having been discov-
ered, promising rich results, solving the fuel question, and determining one of the
best locations in the State for manufacturing enterprises. Gold, silver, copper,
other ores, and the richest tin mines in the world are but a short distance from the
town. The title to the tin mines has just been determined by the United States
Supreme Court and work on the mines has been renewed. The great variety and
quality of natural resources and the many advantages here await only time and
money to turn them into a thousand and one uses. The day will come when the
place will be well known for its rich mineral and manufactured products. Arrange-
ments for a sewer pipe factory are now being made.

It is rare to find such a combination of natural advantages ; capital can find
here opportunity for paying investment ; labor will seek this locality for steady
employment at good wages ; the outlook to the new-comer will improve the more
he investigates. At first it may seem overdrawn but it will require a short time
only to see something of what South Riverside will be the next ten years.

These lands are sold at prices much lower than elsewhere for the same quality
of soil and similar climatic conditions. The terms are extremely favorable, only
about one-fourth cash and the balance drawing seven per cent, interest, payable on
or before ten years at the option of the purchaser. The property will continue to
advance in value as improvements go on, and the demand for choice acreage in-
creases. The place is not an untried experiment. Worth and merit are at the
bottom of it all.

Some of the many claims that will concern home-seekers and careful investors
are fertility of the soil, healthfulness, being near enough the sea for comfort, far
enough inland for finest fruits, the orange and olive, lemon and lime, grapes, apri-
cots, fruits of all kinds in abundance. Size and quality will not be excelled.
Grand scenery, fine climate, beautiful location for homes, railroad facilities, within
easy reach of large towns, a community of live workers bound to succeed.

Such, in brief, is the new place to which you are invited. Come and see for
yourself, look the ground over, if it suits, invest, take hold and help along public
and private enterprises, become an active citizen, share in the present and future
prosperity of the " Queen Colony," " Gem of the Orange Belt," South Riverside,
Southern California.

For information address

SOUTH RIVERSIDE LAND AND WATER COMPANY,

SOUTH RIVERSIDE. CALIFORNIA.
no

HLESSHNDRO.

Tel}derloii) of Southern

Wonderful Natural Advantages and Possibilities
Offered at Nominal Outlay.

ALESSANDRO, Cal., January 12 — It is but natural that people with moderate
means should look about for a location in this most favored region where they will
enjoy the reward of development and growth.

There are to-day thousands of people ready to come to Southern California,
and the first impulse of these is to make their future home in some of the larger
cities, never considering the possibility of securing anything desirable in either
town or acreage property at a moderate figure. All the cities in Southern Califor-
nia have had " booms," which the new comer will find a very expensive luxury.
And it does not pay to travel through this country with a family any length of
time hunting a location. The writer, who has enjoyed special advantages in inves-
tigating the true merits of this State, does not hesitate to say that a large portion
of the same is far from being the Garden of Eden generally represented in cheap
boom literature, and those who are foolish or unfortunate enough to tie to them
will ere long return East, poorer, though wiser, men. On the other hand, South-
ern California contains a few strips of land, charming valleys mostly, which, under
cultivation, will produce abundantly everything raised under the sun, and offer
every settler an independence and fortune within the shortest space of time. And
it is to this region that my attention has been mainly directed. It appears at these
points as if natural advantages had vied with each other to excel and to shower
eternal wealth and happiness upon those who would be the lucky ones to aid in
their development.

While many thriving towns of this Bonanza Belt are already favorably known
to the readers, it was not until a few days ago that an accident permitted me to
discover the tenderloin of Southern California, just thrown open to settlement,
the centre of which forms the newly laid out town of

ALESSAN DRO.

In this age of paper towns and real estate craze, it is not always easy to dis-
criminate between the embryo California towns with or without a future, and only
the experienced eye can successfully penetrate the mystery and brush away the
clouds of uncertainty hovering about these enterprises. And while many new
towns of Southern California will never be heard of beyond the lithograph estab-
lishments, a few will become cities within an exceedingly short space of time.
And prominent among these will be charming Alessandro.

This new town is the creation of the sterling firm of Messrs. French, Packard
& Rockwell, of Pomona, Cal., whose far-sightedness and sound judgment led
them to acquire by far the choicest and most superbly located tract of land, com-
prising 10,640 acres in the richest and most fertile portion of Southern California
— the San Jacinto plains — the products of which will find a ready market in this
future metropolis.

Alessandro is located on the main line of the California Southern Railroad,
seven miles southeast of Riverside and 100 miles north of San Diego. The scenery
surrounding it stands without a peer. To the east, the majestic snow-capped
peaks of San Bernardino and San Jacinto, with their range of mountains, form an
imposing barrier to the cold winds and lend a grand background to the beautiful
scene unfolded here, and one cannot resist the feeling that Madam Nature had
carved out her favorite town-site right at this point and deposited at its very doors
all the wealth of her luxurious larder. The land surrounding and tributary to it is
of the most fertile and adapted to the profitable cultivation of all kinds of fruit,
cereals, etc. — in fact, everything grown everywhere.

The town of Alessandro comprises only 240 acres, the liberal-minded and
conscientious owners preferring to eliminate as far as possible every vestige of un-
warranted speculation and to permit the new town to grow up upon its merits only.
A large amount of money has already been expended in improvements and
it is the intention of the gentlemen interested to show their unlimited faith in

this new town by putting in their own money first. Already the coming prosperity
is evinced on all sides, and the busy sound of the hammer around here seems to
have a particularly substantial ring. A handsome hotel has been completed and
a fine depot building erected by the California Southern Railroad. Several other
buildings are up, as well as a store building. Four fine brick blocks have been
contracted for and will bid a cheerful welcome to the new settler within a short
time. Two beautiful parks are being laid out, which will be covered with prolific
semi-tropical vegetation. A grand avenue — Majella avenue, five miles in length
and 100 feet wide — is being graded, and when adorned with a double row of
graceful pepper trees will offer one of the most exquisite drives in America.
Thanks to the enterprise of the owners, water for domestic purposes has been
already provided by an expensive system of pipes, and every home will find at
its very doors the purest, clearest water in abundance, a matter which cuts a
very important factor in Southern California.

To encourage superior school buildings, the owners have agreed to set aside
one per cent, of the total sales of this extensive tract, which will amount to quite a
large sum, when the immense area is considered. Two and a half blocks have also
been donated for church purposes, and I learn that all necessary la-nd and even
some money will be cheerfully given by the public-spirited owners for like pur-
poses Indeed, there is not a town-site which has at its back the broad-gauge
spirit and liberal bank account of the gentlemen who hold the reins of Alessandro,
and the people who give this promising enterprise their preference will never find
reason to regret their judgment.

To the tiller of the soil, the Alessandro tract appeals pre-eminently. Those
who understand California know that only a combination of four indispensable
factors insure the enormously profitable crops so • often read about. These are
climate, soil, water and elevation. And all of these are found at Alessandro, as if
made to order.

The climate is simply perfect. Entirely devoid of frost, and sheltered by the
mountain ranges from disagreeable winds on one side and the unwelcome fogs on
the other, the atmosphere is invigorating and bracing, and, perhaps, represents
better than any other section I visited, the ideal climate of California.

The soil is of the very best. The railroad cuts diagonally through the tract,
the greater portion of which lies to the east and contains what is called moist
lands, upon which water can be had in abundance almost anywhere at a depth of
from five to fifteen feet of the surface. Here all kinds of agricultural products
can be raised in abundance without irrigation. The dry lands are on the west side
of the tract, and will require irrigation. The owners of the town site, who have in-
vestigated the matter very closely, have abundant evidence of the existence of artes-
ian water upon this tract, and are now boring an artesian which will enhance
the value of the present low prices very materially. On the other hand, abundant
water can be had upon every foot of ground by digging wells sufficient to irrigate
small tracts, which, owing the fabulous returns, are the rule rather than the ex-
ception in California.

The elevation is particularly fortunate. Statistics show that the best results
in the raising of oranges and fruits, generally require an elevation of between
1,000 and 2,000 feet, which precludes the possibility of frost. Alessandro is situ-
ated 1,500 feet above sea-level and in this as other advantages, readily distances
many less fortunate regions.

With the natural advantages equal if not superior to the most noted sections
of Southern California, coupled with the enterprise and unlimited capital of a
wide-awake corporation, who would doubt the future of Alessandro? While the
property just placed on the market is only held at $25 to $125 for town lots
50 x 150, and $25 to $130 per acre for acreage property, it is a safe prediction to
look for a large advance within a few months, just as soon as the contemplated
extensive improvements can be gotten under way.

Want of space precludes more extended mention to-day, and I take pleasure
to refer those interested to the Alessandro Land and Water Company, whose effi-
cient officers, Hon. John L. Means, of Grand Island, Nebraska, president ;
Charles French, vice-president ; G. E. Ross, secretary, or People's Bank, of
Pomona, treasurer, have handsome offices at Pomona, and will cheerfully furnish
all information desired regarding this favored spot.

I can only add that I consider this tract of land and the new town-site of
Alessandro far ahead of anything I have found in Southern California as offering
a veritable bonanza to the man of only moderate capital. ERTEL.

297

THE LAKE COLONY,

SAN DIEGO COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

A place that should not be missed by any tourist is the Elsinore
Lake — the only lake in Southern California. It is a lovely and
placid sheet of water, two by five miles in extent, located half way
between the two important cities of Los Angeles and San Diego,
twenty-two miles inland, at an elevation of 1,280 feet above the sea.
It is easy of access, being on the main lines of the A., T. & S. F.
and S. P. railroads from the east to San Diego ; the former road
having been operated along the lake shore six years, the latter now
being constructed.

The rapid filling up of Southern California during the last
four years has brought several thousand people to this unique and
beautiful spot, where they have built up homes and towns which are
the admiration of all visitors. Man is doing by enterprise and
thrift the little that was left undone by nature to make this the most
desirable site for a home.

Mr. J. H. Roe, of the Riverside Valley Echo, says, in a recent
editorial that, " Elsinore with its lake and surrounding settlements is
certainly the most romantically beautiful spot in Southern California.
We say this advisedly after being familiar with Pasadena, San
Gabriel Valley, Arrowhead, Redlands, Riverside and all the seaside
resorts on the Southern Coast." This is nothing more than honest
appreciation candidly expressed, and the almost universal verdict of
visitors, who make the complete circuit of the lake and its surround-
ing towns. The oldest of these is called Elsinore ; the best railroad
and agricultural town is Wildomar; the most lovely and command-
ing site is Lakeland ; while the productive mineral belt is centered
at the Chancy Coal Mine. Space forbids the detailed description
of these places that their importance would warrant. We can only
hint at the advantages of each and trust to readers of the Handbook
to go and see for themselves. They will be well repaid.

WILDOMAR

Is on the line of both railrof ds ; is the business centre of about six
thousand acres of rich fruit, farming and grazing lands ; is in its
third year; shows remarkable and substantial growth, and has an
assured future. A cut of its cozy hotel is presented herewith as
a sample of its improvements. It contains twenty six rooms,
well finished and furnished, and kept as a first-class country hotel,
the comfort of the guests being carefully looked after. This is

298

the must convenient stopping place for visitors to the colony. From
here a hired livery rig or a free real estate agent's carriage will con-
vey you along the broad and level Grand Avenue five miles to

LAKELAND.

Here the wise tourist will turn up one of the broad avenues of this
charming though incipient villa tract, look at its liberal lots
commanding a view of the entire lake and surrounding valley, and
if he does not secure a lot, he has stronger resisting force than the
writer can boast. He can not help thinking that he wantsxme of
them, like Mrs. C. B. Jones, whose artistic taste selected the site
and helped to found Lakeland, "to think from," if he never gets there
to live. Much as we would like to linger, we must continue along
Grand Avenue and, leaving it and the lake, visit the now famous

CHANEY COAL MINES,

Located four years ago, by the gentleman whose name they bear.
Having been slowly developed until the worst of the "coal famine "
of the last winter, they suddenly commenced to furnish two carloads
per day. This was a limited supply but it brought the coal "corner"
to time and saved the people much money. The field is now well
explored and the supply demonstrated to be almost inexhaustible.
The quality is good, improving as the entry progresses. The vein
varies from five to eight feet in thickness. The S. P. R. R., now
building, will pass right by the mine and furnish cheap transporta-
tion. The Santa Fe have mooted the idea of a branch from the
mines past Lakeland to Wildomar. The sewer and water pipe
works, now in operation close to the mine, use about ten tons of
coal per day and will need more in future. Other manufactures
are contemplated which will greatly increase the local demand.
There is an opening here for some live men who can buy a fourth
interest at a low price and assist in the handling of the coal, or
construct and operate works to utilize the extra fine quality of fire
clay that is found in the mine above the coal ; or in working some
of the many other minerals in the vicinity, with the aid of cheap
fuel.

Continuing our pleasant and instructive drive we come around
to Elsinore, prosperous and pushing. Again skirting the lake
several miles we pass Elsinore's railroad station, and thence through
the grain and fruit farms, home again to Hotel Wildomar. For
further particulars the reader can obtain bird's-eye views, maps, etc.,
free, from D. M. GRAHAM and WM. COLLIER, of Wildomar, Cal.
They are the founders of the towns above mentioned and part
owners of the coal mine ; and will be pleased to answer letters and
personal applications.

MONTEREY. G&k

A GREAT WINTER RESORT.

Th* Celebrated HOTEL DEL MONTE and its Seven Thousand

Acr«s of Pleasure Ground on the Pacific Shores— One of the

Most Magnificent Seaside Establishments in the World

— MONTEREY and its Surroundings— A Royal Resort in

a Romantic Region — Interesting Items.

With her natural resources known to her own people it is a singular fact that
until less than a dozen years ago very few people, except those who had visited
California themselves, thought of her as a resort or winter home, a region in which
to regain health, or in which to find pleasure, rest and recreation. In the spring
of 1880 an event transpired that marks an epoch in the annals of the state's
history, for from that time on thousands of people have heard in all parts of the
world that California has in her possession ' ' The Queen of American Watering
Places." The event which made this known was the opening of the Hotel del
Monte and resort at Monterey. Following closely the completion of the immense
Pacific railway system which bind the two coasts of America, the opening, not
merely a hotel, but of 7,000 acres of pleasure grounds, greater, more costly, more
magnificent than any winter resort in the world, the dedication to the public of the
Hotel del Monte and its grounds, gave to the Pacific Coast a new meaning in the
minds of thousands of people throughout the entire land. Previous to this event
little was thought of any part of California or its coast as a winter resort or sum-
mer watering-place ; the opening of Monterey marked a revolution in this respect;
noted people came from Europe and America, tasted of her pleasures, were
enchanted by her attractions, and spoke of them to the whole world.

The accompanying picture affords the reader an opportunity of gaining a little
conception of the external appearance of the hotel, with just a little glimpse of the
grounds surrounding it. The hotel contains very nearly five hundred rooms and
can easily accommodate seven hundred and fifty persons. In furnishing and in
interior finish of the hotel throughout, expense seems hardly to have been consid-
ered at all, the idea prevailing to have the most artistic and at the same time the
most appropriate and durable, giving the effect of real meVit and worth. The
carpets are Axminsters, Moquets and Brussels; the woods used are San Domingo
mahogany, English quartered oak and selected cherry. All the rooms of the
house are furnished equally well ; though variety has been sought in different
colors, designs and finish.

To those who have never visited Monterey, a description of the grounds and
surroundings will be of interest and importance. In other instances we frequently
hear pf a hotel, standing by itself perhaps on a barren beach or bluff, surrounded
by a sandy waste, spoken of as a resort. How vast the difference between such
a resort and the fair Hotel del Monte, located in its enchanting garden of nearly
two hundred acres, with seven thousand acres of forest and sea-coast adjoining !
The traveler visiting the Hotel del Monte alights at the little station house;
through the foliage of the large live oaks, pine and cedar, in the distance, he
catches glimpses of the beautiful hotel. Proceeding toward the house by carriage
or on foot, the park grows more and more picturesque, more enchanting, more
surprisingly beautiful. The hotel, conspicuous though it be, is lost from view, it
can not occupy but a secondary place in the picture. Under the great, rugged,
gnarled oaks have been laid in graceful curves the smooth graveled walks and
drives. Approaching nearer to the hotel we see the work of the artist in flower-
bordered walks, intricate figures wrought in velvety beds of various tinted flowers,
and in the selection and arrangement of various plants and shrubs from other
lands and climes, all growing in profusion. Various species < f cacti, century
plants, prickly pear, and other plants that thrive in the perpetual summer of this
paradise and esteemed curiosities in cold countries, add to the interest and beauty
of the scene. Beneath the large oaks, hung with long, drooping moss; and around
the base of the great pines, laden with cones so large that they seem real curiosities
unlike their kind elsewhere, the grass is green and soft, filling the spaces between
the beds of rich colored flowers and the smooth walks. In one portion of the
grounds is the "maze," a labyrinth formed of cypress hedges, pervaded by foot-
paths. To enter is to be lost, and humiliate one's self by calling fora guide in
order to escape the intricacies of this curiously wrought puzzle. At a distance from

300

the hotel is an artificial lake, supplied from the Del Monte water-works system and
equipped with boats. A feature of the park, some distance in front of the house,
are two tine croquet grounds, a lawn tennis ground, and a bowling alley.

When the Pacific Improvement Company had been formed to establish the
finest summer and winter resort then known, it was highly essential that before
expending the vast sums of money necessary to carry out the project, the most
desirable locality be found so far as regards the temperature, rainfall, and other
climatic conditions that affect the comfort and healthfulness of the human being.
In this respect Monterey has the right of claiming to stand pre-eminent. Statistics
prove this. Monterey has for many years been known for its equable temperature.
The first capital of California, founded nearly a hundred and twenty yean: ago by
Franciscan missionaries, it has been the cynosure of the coast towns for health,
beauty and natural attractiveness, even many years before man had done so much
to perfect this garden of the Pacific. The following table carefully prepared by
well-known authorities, whose names might be given, most of the figures being offi
cial reports, gives the temperature of Monterey and many other resorts and places:

PLACE.

JAN.

JULY.

DIFF.

PLACE.

JAN.

JULY.

DIFF.

DECS.

DEGS.

DECS.

L)EGS.

DECS.

MONTEREY, Cal

New York

San Francisco. '
Los Angeles '

New Orleans

Naples

55
46

82
76

•JO

Santa Barbara, '
San Die°"o '

r a

74
70

1 7

Honolulu
Funchal

59
60

74
80

15
2O

Santa Monica '

C 1

Mentone

A.O

Sacramento, '
Stockton,
Vallejo,
Fort Yuma

Cincinnati ..

45
49
48
56
30

73
72
70
92

28
23

22
36

4-1

Genoa
City of Mexico- . .
Jacksonville, Fla._
St. Augustine, "

46
52

77
67
80
77

31
15
22

Many people who have never visited California erroneously imagine that
during the '' wet season" — so called in contradistinction to the dry months — rain
never ceases to descend. This popular error is corrected by glancing at weather
tables, which invariably show that during the wet season in California there is not
only less rain, but more fair and beautiful days than in any other portion of the United
States the same time. Statistics show that the average yearly rainfall at San Diego
is ten inches; Santa Barbara, 15 inches; St. Augustine, (Fla.), 55 inches; St. Paul,
30 inches; Mentone, 23 inches; Los Angeles, 18 inches; Monterey, 14 inches.

After a description of the Hotel del Monte and its grounds as a resort, when
drawing a comparison between it and many other resorts, which consist principally
of a hotel building alone, the most surprising feature left to enumerate and one
very acceptable to thousands of guests is the reasonableness of the charges. Hun-
dreds of tourists here in the East testify to this. The rates at the Hotel del Monte
are just the medium rates of commercial hotels in cities, and actually about half
that charged for the same accommodations at similar hotels elsewhere. This
applies to the hotel, and does not refer to the latitude allowed the guest at this resort,
where he takes a boat ride on the lake, plays croquet, lawn tennis or billiards with-
out money and without price. From what has been said it is evident that the hotel
itself, when classed with other resort establishments, is justified in demanding the
highest rates, since every comfort, convenience, and attention is afforded the guests,
to be had at the highest-priced hotels of metropolitan cities or other noted seaside
resorts. To verify these statements the Hotel del Monte only need refer to tourists
in different parts of the land who will testify to these facts. The liberality of the
proprietors in this respect even offsets any additional expense that the journey from
the distant East may incur, when compared with resorts nearer home.

To the tourist who leaves the ice-bound Atlantic Coast; the frozen streets of
Chicago, St. Paul, or other inland cities, in mid-winter, arriving at Monterey after
a ride of less than a week, the delight experienced in such a change must be felt;
it can not be expressed in words. He feels that at the Del Monte he has found
something more than summer weather, summer air, summer sunshine. While
Monterey is a delightful summer watering place, thronged by thousands from San
Francisco and elsewhere, the summer habitue of the resort does not form an idea
of what this "Queen of Watering Places " is to the Eastern visitor, who on arrival
can not realize at first that the change is real, the beautiful climate and surround-
ings permanent. It seems more like a dream.

301

T1TE WATER TOWER,
CHICO VECINO.

For full particulars, Maps
Pamphlets, etc., address

CAMPER & COSTAR,

CHICO, CALIFORNIA

FROM NIMBUS KNOB TO THE SACRA

SIR JOSEPH HOOKER OAK (29 feet in circumference), CHICO VECINO.

avis |4e(essar^ for a Model jtom^

HEHLTH.
WHTER. SOIL,

Homeseekers ! You lind these three elements in CHICO VKCINO, a
subdivision of the famous Rancho Chico, comprising 23,000 acres of line loaming
soil, divided into orchards, vineyards, and grain fields, owned and conducted by
Gen. John Bidwell, the pioneer of California.

Health. — Few places outside of CHICO VKCINO afford a greater attraction
in this respect. It is unqualifiedly a healthy location, as the record?1 will show.
Malaria is unknown here, for the reason that irrigation is unnecessary, and
stagnant pools, breeding disease germs, are not to be found.

Water. — The northern and southern boundaries of CHICO VECINO, are
swiftly flowing, gravelly bottomed streams of clear and pure mountain water.

The banks of these streams are thickly wooded with gigantic oaks, six feet in
diameter, the wide-spreading sycamore and the ash, gracefully festooned with the
luxuriant wild grape vine, affording the most beautiful drives that human heart
could wish.

Soil. — Without exception the best in the State of California, dark and loamy,
having an average depth of fifteen feet, with a substratum of gravel through which
percolates pure water from the adjoining mountains. These subterranean streams
solve the mystery of successful fruit culture in CHICO VECINO without irrigation.

PruitS. — Olives, figs, pomegranates, walnuts, almonds, pecans, grapes,
apples, pears, peaches, plums, prunes, apricots, and all kinds of grains and
grasses, find here their natural home, and have been successfully cultivated by
Gen. Bidwell for the last thirty-five years.

Situation. — CHICO VECINO is situated in Butte County, California, eighty-
five miles from Sacramento, the Capital city, and one hundred and eighty-five miles
from San Francisco, the great metropolis of the Golden West

The southern boundary of CHICO VECINO separates it from the City of Chico.
thus being its neighbor as the name Vecino implies.

The California & Oregon Railroad forms its western boundary. This i-i the
through overland road via the Northern Pacific Railway.

Subdivisions. — CHFCO VECINO is subdivided into tracts, from suburban
lots 90x200 feet to twenty-acre tracts.

The avenues are eighty and one hundred and fifty feet wide and so arranged
that each tract is bounded on all sides by an avenue. Through the centre of this
tract is a main Alameda, one hundred and sixty-five feet wide, called the Hsplanade,
on either side of which are four rows of shade trees, some of which are twenty
inches in diameter.

Following the meanderings of Lindo Creek, is another drive one hundred feet
wide in the narrowest place, and is being beautified with ornamental shrubbery.

Chico — Is a thriving place of six thousand population and is noted for its
fine schools and churches,

A State Normal School, a large three story brick hotel, and other improve-
ments aggregating $250,000, are now in process of construction.

Premium Awards. — Chico holds the Gold Medai for the best
citrus exhibit, displayed at Oroville, December, 1887. John Bidwell has been
awarded more premiums for best exhibit of fruits, grains and produce at the State,
County and Mechanics Fairs than any other individual in the state.

For full particulars, maps, pamphlets etc., address

CAMPER & COSTAR, Agents,

Chico, Butte County, California.

303

THERMALITO COLONY

THE PASADENA OF CENTRAL CALIFORNIA.

HERMALITO was surveyed as a Colony site in July, 1887. Its location ia
adjoining the City of Oroville, Butte County, California, being separated!
only by the Feather River, a beautiful stream which in the driest season
has a flow of not less than 100,000 inches of water. This stream affords
abundant opportunities for boating, fishing and bathing, but one mile distant by trav-
eled road from Oroville, a city of 3,000 inhabitants, it affords the dwellers there an
opportunity to have a beautiful country seat, a home amid the orange, olive, fig
and vine, with all the beauties of a tropic climate.

CLIMATE.

Where the ORANGE grows a temperate climate is assured, for the golden fruit
will not flourish or even exist in a l-wer tempera'ure than 25° above zero. The
following table is authentic, having been compiled from Government statistics :

Average
Winter
Temperature.

Average
Spring
lemperature.

Average
Summer
Temperature.

Average
Fall
Temperature.

Average
Annual Mean
Temperature.

North
Latitude.

Nice France

47 8

c.6

72 ^

61 6

CQ C

Art AC.

Florence Italy

A A -3

cfi rt

oy • 3

eg Q

A -7 AC

Rome Italy

48 o

e,7 6

74. 2

60 7

J.2

Naples, Italy .

48 e,

c,8 «

72. 2

6l.8

Valencia Spain

CQ 7

7-3 o

60 8

Palermo Italy

c-i

CQ -7

7/1 7

6a e

•*8

St. Michael, Azores
Malta Sicily

57-9

c 7 c

61.2
62 4

68.3

78.2

62.3
61 6

62-3
67. ^

38
16

Algiers

c c

•*6

Malaga Spain

c c

6c -i

Madeira Islands

60 C.

62 4

60 6

67 1

<J2. C.O

Cadiz Spain

CO Q

CQ e

70 J.

6^ 4

62.1

06. -*7

Los Angeles

56 6

C7.Q2

68.51

63.8

61 .30

Oroville

c,2 Q

64 c,

78 8

65.6

6c j.o

OQ 27

HEALTH.

The health of Thermalito can not be excelled, lying on a mesa or plateau
eighty feet above Feather river; the Colony lands are rolling with a grade towards
the river, giving the finest drainage. As a proof of the opinion of the oldest inhab-
itants on this subject 'he Board of Supervisors of Butte County selected a site on
Thermalito for the County Infirmary, it being the most available situation foi
health in the County.

PRODUCTIVENESS.

In 1886 the citizens of Oroville determined to enter into the business of Citrus
Fruit Culture, and formed a corporation known as the *' Oroville Citrus Associa-
tion," consisting of twenty of the most prominent citizens. After a caretul
examination of the whole surrounding country, these men selected THERMALITO
as the location for their orchard.

This of itself was a verdict in favor of Thermalito, and their faith has prove/
to be well founded. No more successful venture was ever made. In addition iu
this you have but to come and see for yourself.

On Thermalito, trees of nine years of age, ladened with the Orange, Lemon,
Fig, Apple, Pomegranate. Cherry, Prune, Plum. Olive, Apricot, Peach ; in fact,
every kind of fruit and vegetable known to a semi- tropic climate are now growing

304

BEAUTY OF LOCATION.

THERMALITO lies on the south of the far-famed Table Mountains, which rise
1,200 feet above the sea level, and protect it from the cold winds of wintei.
Feather river on the south and east, the Sacramento valley on the west with the
Coast Range Mountains beyond, the Sierra Nevada, Marysville Buttes on the
south, and the snow-capped peaks of Mt. Shasta and Lassen 100 miles to the north,
all combine to give the Colony the name ot " The Beautiful." The eye feasts con-
tinually on scenes of majestic grandeur.

WATER SUPPLY.

THERM AUTO is possessed of tlie most complete water supply in the State of
California. It controls the entire waters of the west branch of the Feather river.
Its supply is 6,600 miners' inches, or a flow of 3,500,000 gallons per hour, a greater
supply than the city of San Francisco has. This water is conducted for twenty-five
miles through three broad canals to the Colony. The cost of these canals exceeded
$300,000 in the beginning. The water is pure and sofi. It is supplied to the City
of Oroville for all purposes, and is furnished free to purchasers of land in Ther-
malito for tlree years after purchase and after that, at the minimum rate so that
the cost of irrigation will not exceed one dollar per acre per annum. Thermnlito
does not depend on an awkward system of ditches for irrigating purposes, but has
already laid and has in use nine miles of water mainland delivers the water under a
pressure of not less than 100 feei or. every lot in the i olony so that it can be used
for fire as well as household purposes. For quality, quantity and power no place
in Calitornia can compare with Thermalito's water facilities

IMPROVEMENTS.

The Company has spent over $100,000 in the last year improving the Colony.
The magnificent Bella Vista Hotel will cost when completed $35,000. The water-
pipes already in use hn e cost $25,000. Eleven miles of broad avenues have been
graded and are in use The Grand Avenue for three miles is planted with beautiful
Ornamental trees, and is the longest pleasure drive ever laid out in Butte County.
Purchasers of land have this year planted 300 acres of orange grove and thirty
families have located and built lovely homes in Thermalito.

The Company plants and cares for orchards at cost. Cost of an Orange
Grove:

10 acres land at $100 per acre, - $1,000

Planting and care for on? year, including preparation of ground, 250

690 Seedling Orange Trees, 3 years old, 40 cents, 276

Total, - $1,526

Budded Orange Trees will cost 30 cents per tree more than Seedlings figured
aoove, and if desired 108 trees per acre can be planted by putting the trees 20 feet
apart instead of 25 feet as calculated above.

SOI L.

The soil of Thermalito is a rich red clay and gravel, in many places support*
fog 2. growth of grand pine and oak trees.

TERMS OF SALE.

Town lots in Thermalito are sold at from $50 to $250 each, being 50x150
feei and 90 x 160 feet in size.

Acre property ranges from $50 to $150 per acre, according to distance and
location.

WE SELL for one-third cash, one-third in one year, and one-third in two years,
with interest on deferred payments at the 7 ate of seven i>er cent, per annum.
FREE WATER for all purposes being given for THREE YEARS to all purchasers

THERMALITO offers the finest opportunity fur investment and homes in Cali-
fornia. The Gieat Northern Railroad lines now moving westward must come
down the North Fork of the Feather River after passing through Beckwith or
Fredonia Pass, and THERMALITO lies at the mouth of the canyon of the North
Fork. Any railroad development must cause a rapid rise in values. But this is
not necessary, the productiveness of the land will make it pay under cultivation,
interest on $2,000 p r acre. We cordially invite examination.

THERMALITO COLONY CO.,

OROVILLE, CALIFORNIA.

20 3°3

PORTLAND OREGON.

METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Population,
Altitude (R. R. level),

70,000
58 ft.

HE tourist, after thousands of miles of journeyings
amid the magnificent panoramas which mark the trip
across the continent, begins to wonder if nature's
sketch-book is not exhausted as he approaches the
metropolis of the Pacific Northwest from any one of
the numerous directions by which it can be reached.
He has seen, perhaps, the Garden of the Gods, the peak
encircled environs of Manitou, the orange groves of Lo?
Angeles, the blue waters of Puget Sound and the forest-
crowned summits of its guardian hills and mountains,
caught glimpses, from his Pullman car window, of the
unrivaled pastoral beauty of the far-famed valley of the
Willamette and comes into Portland seriously debating
in his own mind, in all probability, the possibility of finding
anything to break the dull monotonv 9f the everlasting
round of sight- seeing. fJfmCTOft 1

Some years ago, a well-known writer after having paid
high tribute to the general beauty of a Northern California
county, said, " If the visitor is in search of the sublime let
him take the Overland route from Eureka to Ukiah and ask
the stage driver to notify him when he reaches the point
where Trinity, Mendocino and Humboldt counties 'pool their

issues,' and then let him drink his fill of the splendid scene outspread before him
and gaze entranced on mountains piled on mountains, rivers running to the sea,
and ' vales stretching in pensive quietness between.' "

The tourist may take a much traveled man's word for it that from Portland
Heights he will see all that the writer above quoted so graphically epitomized, with
the added charms of all that a virile civilization can do to smooth down the rugged
asperities of " nature unadorned." At his very feet a proud young city, mistress
of a commerce which makes far-off continents and the isles of the sea tributary to
her growth and prosperity, asserts her unquestioned right to the title of sovereign
of the Occident, so far as the great Northwest empire is concerned, for such b
the geographical position of Portland, virtually located at the confluence of the
two great rivers of the Northwest, that while rivalry is possible, the attempt to
deprive her of supremacy is labor wasted and time thrown away.

The smoke of the factories, the muffled roar of machinery, the masts of sea-

3C7

" MULTNOMAH FALLS," COLUMBIA RIVER.

going ships lying at her wharves, the spires of churches, the turrets of public
school-houses, streets crowded with trucks, drays, hacks and cabs, busy throngs of
business men and elegantly-dressed women, swarthy Italian, ruddy Dane, nervous
American, phlegmatic Englishmen, stolid Mongol, mercurial Celt, all sorts and
conditions of men, in short, elbowing their various ways in the pursuit of the
almighty dollar, make up a cosmopolitan picture of metropolitan life, which, find-
ing it as the tourist does on the outermost rim of the far West, is well worth the
study of the most blase globe trotter that ever yawned over his "chops and shandy-
gaff " at Brookes', Delmonico or anywhere else, for that matter. For here is an
object lesson of the irresistible march and growth and progress of the great and
glorious Yankee nation which is full of suggestion. And that it is suggestive is
well witnessed by an incident which came under the observation of the writer quite
recently. A very distinguished and prominent citizen of a Southern state, having
written to a former fellow-townsman Tor information regarding Portland as a place
for investment, couched his inquiries in such terms as to lead to the inference that he
supposed Portland to be merely an outlying frontier settlement. In reply he was
told that right here in this Western town he would find business blocks, whole
squares of them, superior to anything in New Orleans. And this is true. And,
moreover the stocks kept on hand, both in quality and quantity, are in keeping
with outside appearances. A writer, in the Daily Hotel and Commercial Advertiser,
of Portland, gives the reading public this bird's eye view of the goods and wares
found for sale in Portland stores: " Shells from the isles of the sea, shawls from
farthest India, curious lacquene from China and Japan, faience from Limoges, cutlery
from Sheffield, silks from Lyons, delicatessen from Germany, caviare from the
land of the Tsar, olives from Spain, lemons from Sicily, charms and amulets from
Palestine, lingerie from Paris, gems from all mines, diamonds, opals, rubies, pearls,
emeralds and all others, Swiss marvels of mechanical ingenuity, oranges and
pomegranates from California, wine from all nations and bourbon from the blue
grass region, everything that Yankee skill invents, makes or trades in, from a pin
to a combined reaper and thresher, each and all are to be had for money or approved
paper. And to these may be added the apples, pears, plums, melons, wool, grain,
game, fish, lumber and iron and gold and silver and the innumerable other prod-
ucts of the marvelously rich commonwealth of which Portland is, and for all time
to come will be, the great head centre and metropolis." This is a brief, but it is
by no means a comprehensive, and in no sense of the word an exhaustive resume
of the metropolitan aspects Portland presents in its minor commercial relations.
For, in view of the fact that for the most part the articles above enumerated
relate almost exclusively to the retail trade of the city, they may well be called the
minor details. The export trade of Portland amounts to over fifteen millions of
dollars annually, the principal articles being grain, wool, fish and lumber, her
merchants having correspondents in the British empire, Peru, Chili, France, China
and Amman, with Australia and Japan soon to be added to the list. With respect
to manufactures a recent tabulation of the industries of the city and outlying sub-
urbs by Mr. L. H, Wells, editor of the West Shore, shows an invested capital of
$10,457,000, an employed force of 4,891 laborers, a wage roll of $2,693,573, and
an annual product valued at over $17,000,000. Such is Portland in some of its
merely material aspects. And its interests always have been, now are and are
likely always to be, in the hands of men with a keen eye to the main chance, and
fully able to maintain and keep intact the position already won. The writer not
long ago fell into conversation with a gentleman who has been in his time a mem-
ber of the Boards of Trade of Louisville, Ky., and of New Orleans. "Why,
sir," remarked the gentleman to the writer, " Your Portland Board of Trade are a
smart — a remarkably smart — body of men. I have been accustomed to disputes.

309

CASTLE ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER.

THE TOOTH BRIDGE, COLUMBIA RIVER.

to long and excited debates, from which, very frequently, nothing practical resulted.
Here the members of the Board meet, and seem to know just exactly what is to be
done and how to do it. A member gets up and coolly, dispassionately presents his
facts and figures. Others do the same, a conclusion is arrived at without jar or
jangle. All pull together as near as may be. It is Portland first and the rest of
the world afterward, and it is no wonder the city is forging ahead. It has doubled
its population in less than ten years, and I see no reason why the rate of increase
should not be more rapid in the future than in the past."

In view of these facts Portland, therefore, presents an instructive and interest-
ing object lesson to the student of urban growth and of the influence of American
ideas and American institutions upon progress and development.

But the tourist, however much of a Gradgrind he may be in the matter of facts
and figures, wants something more than mere numerals to make his visit enjoyable.
While on Portland Heights, if his eyes have not been idle, he has seen far away
to the east Mount Hood, the ancient, white-robed sentinel of the Columbia, lifting
^s regal splendors far aloft, while still more distant, to the north and south, other
snow-clad peaks, scarcely inferior in grandeur, keep watch and ward over forest
and field, lake and river, city, town, hamlet and solitary farm house. This scene
once witnessed will never be forgotten. Descending from the Heights, the homes
of Portland, tree embowered, lawn surrounded, from the modern palace of the
millionaire to the ornate cottage of the thrifty citizen, may well challenge inspec-
tion, and, not that alone, but critical comparison, with those of any city of thrice
its size and much closer proximity to the great centres of wealth and population.
Whether from the East, or North, or South, the tourist will see in park and by the
roadside familiar forest growths which give a homelike aspect to all his surround-
ings. All of the cherished companions of the flower gardens of the temperate
zone greet him at almost every step, from donr yard or wide and perennially
verdant lawns. Portland's magnificent High School building, by far the finest and
most ornate on the Pacific slope, forms one of the most attractive features of the
city. Near by, the immense structure to be devoted to a permanent industrial
exhibition of the arts and industries of the Pacific will furnish additional
evidence, if needed, of the progressive tendencies of the metropolis of the North-
west. The handsome, castellated Armory of the citizen soldiery of the metropolis
is well worth a visit. In the art stores of the city admirable reproductions of the
splendid scenery of the Northwest by local artists furnish ample reasons for many
a visit, many an hour of pleasant study, and the liberal expenditure of money for
souvenirs of the tourist's sojourn. The game and fish and fruit and vegetable
stalls of the city speak more intelligibly and instructively of the fecundity of the
soil and waters of the Northwest than a score of volumes of descriptive writing
could do, and give most appetizing hints to the man or woman fond of the good
things of this life of the wide range of choice given to the caterer for supplies for
his table. Near the post-office the tourist will see, the pride of the metropolis, the
" Hotel Portland," a magnificent building, which, when completed and furnished,
will cost between $800,000 and $1,000,000. This splendid caravansary, to be
complete in all its appointments, with all modern conveniences from corner to cope
stone, will be ready for the reception and entertainment of tourists by Decem-
ber, 1889, and once housed in its comfortable apartments the visitor will doubtless
be loth to seek other and possibly inferior accommodations. Not only Portland
Heights and the parks and private grounds and public buildings of Portland invite
the leisurely inspection of the tourist, but along the city front for miles there are
abundant opportunities to pleasantly while away the leisure hours. A score or two
of trains arrive and depart daily. The river is hourly vexed by the arrival and
departure of a fleet of steamers. In the shipping season the long wharves are

311

Jlned with deep sea ships and immense warehouses groan with il:e produce of an
agricultural, fruit-growing, wool-producing and mineral empire, as yet but in the
infancy of its development. When the day's sight-seeing is over, well-equipped
opera houses will be open to the lovers of the music and of the drama.

if a day's or a week's outing is desired, while it can not be truthfully said
that " all the world " is before the tourist, " where to choose," there is within easy
reach of Portland by well-equipped steamer, or by rail, an almost limitless variety
of scenic and restful attractions. An hour or two's ride by steamer down tht
Willamette and up the Columbia, or half that time's ride by motor road, will takt.
the visitor to the Garrison town of Vancouver, W. T., where the parade of the
regiment on duty and the afternoon's music by the band, will round out a day ot
rare enjoyment. Another day, or more, it may be, devoted to a trip up the
Columbia, the scenic splendors along which dwarf almost into littleness those along
the Hudson and the Rhine, Multnomah Falls, pyramidal locks to which Egyptian
obelisks are mere toys by comparison, Cape Horn, a natural fortress of the Titans
of the mountains, the Cascades, the Pillars of Hercules, the broad majestic river,
the castellated, forest crowned hills, and a score of cataracts leaping from dizzy
heights are but incidents in the ever-varying charms of this memorable trip.

Within an hour's ride of the city by steamer or rail the Falls of the Willamette,
which not even the busy manufacturing town of Oregon City utilizing their unriv-
aled water power can render prosaic, can not fail to attract the tourist and well
repay the time and trouble of a visit. All around the city are cosy nooks in the
recesses of the darkling hills or on the banks of the Willamette and its tributary
streams are retreats where the picnicker, with well-filled hamper, to which with
little trouble can be added fish from the stream and game from the woods, can
take his ease in the shade of oak and pine and maple, and dream, if he or she likes,
of the forest of Ardennes and realize to the full that their lives, for the nonce at
least, " remote from public haunts," are pleasanter than amid the rush and roar
and rattle of commerce and trade and politics and manufactures. Within a few
hours' travel by rail or steamer in three or four directions, "the salt air of the sea,"
which almost as much as sleep is " tired nature's sweet restorer," ''balm of hurt
minds " and general cure all for half the ills that flesh is heir to, is delightfully
accessible and all along a hundred or two hundred miles of sea coast good hotel
accommodations and unrivaled facilities for camping out and " roughing it" are to
be had at reasonable rates. Take it all together, it may truthfully be asserted that
in point of scenic attractions, delightful climate for the greater part of the year,
reasonable and bountiful facilities for enjoying the true " aolce farnienle" of the
tourist Portland offers unsurpassed attractions. It is by no means to be forgotten
that club life has its votaries in Portland as elsewhere. Besides two or three social
organizations on the regular lines, the city boasts of an association known already
far and wide as the Alpine Club, devoted to the material and scientific development
of the state. Its membership already composes much of the solid wealth and
intellectual force of the state and a rapidly accumulating cabinet of the mineralog-
ical and historical curios of the North west,, makes it certain that the open sesame
to its hospitable doors will give the tourist an unrivaled opportunity to acquaint
himself at slight trouble with much of interest concerning the Northwest, which
otherwise he could obtain the knowledge of only at great trouble and expense.

The tourist, then, is cordially invited to Portland with the confident assurance
that the longer his stay and the more thorough his exploration of its surroundings
may be, the more he will be charmed with the locality and the more likely he will
be to comprehend the pride which its denizens feel in, and the affection they bear
for, the Metropolis of the Pacific Northwest.

SI'*

CONTENTS.

PAGB.

FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO DENVER, - . 9

FROM DENVER TO PUEBLO, - - - - 13

PUEBLO TO OGDEN, * .....31

PUEBLO TO ALAMOSA, - ..... 69

ALAMOSA TO ESPANOLA AND SANTA FE, - - 81

ALAMOSA TO SILVERTON, ... 89

SlLVERTON TO MONTROSE, - 103

SALIDA TO ASPEN, - 109
LEADVILLE TO DILLON, -- ... -123

OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO, ...... ^7

SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO, ...... 149

Los ANGELES TO SANTA BARBARA, - - - - - 171

Los ANGELES TO SAN DIEGO, - - - .178

SAUNTERINGS AROUND SAN FRANCISCO, - - 201

TO THE YOSEMITE, - • ... 215

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST, - 219
INDEX TO STATIONS ON DENVER & Rio GRANDE AND DENVER & Rio

GRANDE WESTERN R. R., - - 250

MOUNTAIN PEAKS OF COLORADO, - - 252

MOUNTAIN PASSES OF COLORADO, -.-••- 252

ELEVATION OF LAKES, - ... - 252

ALTITUDES OF TOWNS AND CITIES, ..... 253

DISTANCES FROM DENVER, ...... 253

PRONUNCIATION OF PROPER NAMES, .... 253

INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC R. R., • 254

ADDENDA, ....••••• 260

344

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Arapahoe County Court House, Denver, - 15

Alignment of the Denver & Rio Grande R.R. over Marshall Pass, 38

Alignment of Toltec Gorge District, - 91

A Rocky Mountain Beauty Spot, • 123

Approach to the Black Canon, - 46

A Donkey Brigade, - 30

Along the Animas River, - - 98

Animas Canon and the Needle Mountain, • 102

A Quiet Ncok, 57
A Ute Council Fire, - .51

A Typical Mexican, - 83

Assembly Hall, Tabernacle and Temple, Salt Lake City, - 65

Approaches to Oakland Ferry, - 148

At the Golden Gate, - 134

Artesian Well, South Riverside, - - 294

Bird's-Eye View of Denver, - 6

Bird's Eye View of Aspen, ... . 120

Bird's-Eye View of Salida, - 108

Bird's-Eye View of Ouray, - - • • • 106

Brown's Canon, - • • 109

Bird's-Eye View of Salt Lake City, - - 61

Bee Hive House, • - 66
Bird's-Eye View of San Francisco, - - - .152

Big Trees of Calaveras, - 218

Bath House, Cicero Place, Green Lake, - ... 328

Colorado's Capital Building. Denver, - 16

Currecanti Needle, Black Canon, ..... 48

Crested Butte Mountain and Lake. - • - 41

Canon of Rio de Las Animas, .... - 97

Cascades of the Blue, - 126

Castle of the Cliff Dwellers, Mancos Canon, 94

Climbing the Mountains at Veta Pass, - 72

Chippewa Falls in the Black Canon, 50

Chiefs of the Uncompahgre Utes, ... 107

Castle Gate, - ... 54

Capitol Building, Sacramento, - - 144

California's Mammoth Grape Vine, - - 200

Concrete Pipe Works, Pomona, - 264

Cascade in San Antonio Canon, Ontario, - - 192

Cape Horn, Columbia River. - 234

Castle Rock, Columbia River, ... 310

Coffin Rock, Indian Burial Place, Lower Columbia River, . • 312

Cicero Place, on Green Lake, Near Seattle, ... 242

Depot at Colorado Springs, - - 20

Donner and Webber Lakes, - - 140

Dip-Net Fishing at the Dalles of the Columbia, - . 238

345

346 ILL USTRA TIONS.

PAQB.

Embudo, Rio Grande Valley, • Si

Exploring the Walls, - ... u5

Euclid Avenue, Ontario, - .... j(pt 286

Echo Rock, - - - lor

Fremont Pass, - - • - 125

First Congregational Church, Denver, ... 14

Falls of the Yosemite, - - 216

From Nimbus Knob to the Sacramento, - - 302
Forests of the Columbia, - .... 236

Glimpses of Pike's Peak, 26

Gateway to the Garden of the Gods. - 22

Grape Creek Canon, ..... 32

Grand Cafion of the Colorado, ... 53

Grand Canon, from To-Ro-Wasp, 68

Gate of Ladore, ... . 44

Garfield Memorial, - 93

" Genl. Fremont " Big Tree, and Beach View, - - 207

Glimpse of Celestial Life in San Francisco, - 156

High School Building, Denver, - 10

Hotel and Grounds, Ontario, - - 282

Hotel Temescal, South Riverside, - - 292

In the Garden of the Gods, ..... 27

In San Francisco Bay, • 154

In the Semi-Tropic Zone, Los Angeles, • 170

Inside and Outside Headers — Del Monte, - - - 212

Jenner Falls, - 247
Lick Observatory, Mt. Hamilton, ----- 205

Lower Cape Horn, Columbia River, - 234

Manitou Springs and Pike's Peak, 24

Mount of the Holy Cross, - - 114

Marshall Pass— Eastern Slope, - 35

Marshall Pass— Western Slope, - 42

Marble Canon, - . - 122

Main Street, Ontario, - - 280

Mariposa Big Tree Grove, - - - 220

Mount Shasta, - - 228

Mt. Rainier, - - - 249

" Multnomah P'alls," Columbia River, - - 308

Megdenhour Bay and Edgewater Point, near Seattle. - - 244

New Mexican Life, - 86

Near San Gabriel and Pasadena, - 1 79

Napa Soda Springs, - - 223
Over the Range, - ... Frontispiece.

On the Lookout, - ... 96

Old Church of San Juan, • • 82

On the Uncompahgre, - .... 104

On Wheels, Through Golden Gate Park, - - • • 160

On the Beach at Santa Cruz, - • 266
On the Rio Chico, - .... 223

Orange Orchard, Pomona, - ... 196

Ocean Sculpture, Santa Monica. - - 198

ILLUSTRATIONS. 347

i-AGK.

Old Mission Church at Santa Barbara, - - • 174

Old Mission Church, Monterey, - ... 202

Over the Range, . - - 130

On the Balcony, Hotel del Monte, ... 210

Palmer Lake, - .... 18

Phantom Curve, - ... 91

Pueblo de Taos, - .... 85

Pueblo Indians, - ..... 84

Pavilion, Woodward's Gardens, • 158

People's Bank, Pomona, --.... 266

Portland from the Heights. Mt. Hood in the Distance, 306

Portland from East Bank of the Willamette, - - 233

Pacific Avenue, Tacoma, 1877, - . 240

Pacific Avenue, Tacoma, 1888, • 240

Queen's Cafion, - 67

Rainbow Falls, - 21

Rooster Rock, Columbia River, • 237

Sierra Blanca, ... 74

Sangre de Cristo Range, from Marshall Pass, - - 40

Silverton and the Sultan Mountain, ... IQO

Summit of Veta Mountain, - 76
Spanish Fork Canon, - - - • . -58

San Antonio Falls, Ontario, - .... 193

State Bank Block, Ontario, . . . - 283

Scene in San Antonio Cafion, Ontario, • • . 186
Sierra Madre Villa, - --••271

Sir Joseph Hooker Oak, Chico Vecino, - . . 221

The Royal Gorge, . . . - 33, 36

The Seven Falls. Cheyenne Cafion, - ... 25

Trout Fishing at Wagon Wheel Gap, ... 79

Trout Fishing on the Cimarron, ... 49

Toltec Gorge and Tunnel, - - • . . 92

Tramway in Little Cottonwood Cafion, ... 59
The Great Salt Lake, - -63

Tahoe Scenery, - . I38

The Loop, - ..... x66

The Petrified Forest, - .... 163

Twin Falls, - .... 225

" The Old Cabin on the Columbia," - ... 230

Tooth Bridge, Columbia River, .... 310

Upper Twin Lakes, • .... IIO

Up the Rio Grande, . . • • 78

Union Block, Seattle, - ... 325

View of Fourteenth Street, Denver, .... 8

View of Public Buildings, Denver, «... j2

Veta Pass and Dump Mountain, ... 70

Views from the Cliff House, - ... I5I

View in San Antonio Cafion, Ontario, . . . - 184
Wagon Wheel Gap, - ...

Yosemite Valley, - ... 214

Young America's Friend, .... ^g

INDEX

OF TOWNS AND POINTS OF INTEREST.

PAGE.

Acequia _. . — 17

Alta 60

Alta Branch 60

Alamosa . ... . 75

Alcazar The, S. F 155

Alcatraz Island and Angel Island. 157

Alhambra . 197

Alviso . .... 204

Albany 281

Alessandro 296-297

American Fork 59

Amargo 93

American River Bridge ...... 145

Antelope Springs 80

Antonito ..... . 82

Antioch . ..... . 161

Animas Canon .__. .... 99

Anderson 225

Army Point ... 147

Arkansas Valley ............ 31

Aspen 121

Ashland 229

Athlone .. ........ 162

Auburn . ... 143

Avalanche Creek ...._. 119

Aztec 96

Azusa . 182

Barranca .. 83

Baldwin Theatre, S. F 165

Banks, S. F 157

Banta 161

Bakersfield 165

Bathing. Pool, The 118

Bathing, Accommodations For 118

Battle Mountain 133

Benicia _ .... 147

Bentwood 161

Bethany l6l

Berenda .... 162

Bear Creek Falls 104

Beowawc . 133

Bingham 60

Bingham Junction 60

Bingham Branch 60

Bijou Theatre, S. F 155

Big Trees, The __ 218

Black Caflon of the Gunnison 47

Bloomfield 96

Book Cliffs, The 52

Brown's Carton 109

Brigham 128

Browns 135

Bush Street Theatre, S. F 155

Buena Vista in

548

i>AGE.

Burnham —„... 16

Byron 161

Byron Hot Springs . 161

By Rail to Los Angeles 175

Castle Gate 54

California State Mining Bureau, S. F. 157

Cameron . 167

Caliente 195

Carpinteria 175

Camulos 177

Calumet Branch in

Canon of the Grand River 1 1 6

Carbondale 119

Carlin 132

Carson Lake 136

Cascade 142

Cape Horn...... 143

Castroville 209

Calaveras Grove, The 217-218

Castle Rock 17

Carlisle Springs 29

Canon City 31-32

Cedar Divide 49

Cedar Pass . 131

Chippeta Fall 47

Chama 93

Chinese Theatre, S. F 155

Chattanooga 103

Chico 222

Chico Vecino 223, 303

Cheyenne Mountain 21

CimarrOn 47

Cimarron Cafton 49

Cliff Dwellings 95

Cliff House 150, 157

Claremont 182

Climate, The 191

Cluro 133

Climate of Puget Sound, The 241

Clark's Magnetic Spring ._ 29

Coal Basin 119

Corinne 128

Colfax 143

Colorado Springs 21

Colorado City 23

Coal Creek 31

Coal Creek Branch 31

Colorado Desert, The 52

Coal Branch 55

Comanche Cafton 84

Coal Mines 161

Compton 171

Colton 183-287-289

Coronado 189

IXDEX.

349

PAGE.

Cocamonga ~ 191

Cotton wood Springs ill

Crane'sPark 115

Crested Butte 43

Crested Butte Branch 43

Crystal 121

Currecanti Needle 47

Cuchara Junction 76

Cumbres 93

Davis 146

Dallas 107

Denver I3'I5

Delta 51

Del Norte 76

Descending to the Desert 167

Desert 136

Del Monte 209

Dillon 126

Divide 231

Doubling on our track 159

Donner Lake 141

Douglass 17

Durango 95

Du?rte 182

Dutch Flat 142

Eastern Railway Lines, S. F 157

East Riverside 183

Eagle River Canon 115

El Moro 69

Elmira 147

Elk Park 104

Elk Mountain Railway 119

Elko 132

Embudo 86

Emigrant Gap 142

Espanola - 86

Espanola to Santa Fe 87

Etiwanda _ - 182

Eugene 231

Express Office, S. F 157

Extension of the D. & R. G. R. R. 1 19

Farmington 96

Fair Oaks 201

Fertile Valleys..: 176

Fertile Valley, A 183

Florence 31, 171

Fort Dushane 54

Fort Lewis 97

Fountain 27

Fruitvale 52

Fresno 162

Fremont Pass 124

Garfield Beach 67

Garland 73

Garfield Memorial 91

Geological Features 127

Glendora 182

Glenwood Springs 117-118

Glen Park. 17

Golden Gate Park, S. F 150-155

Goshen Division, The 164

Goshen 164

Golconda .. 133

PAGE.

Grape Creek Canon 34

Grand Junction 52

Grand Canon of the Colorado 54

Great Salt Lake 62

Granite in

Gravelly Ford 133

Green River ... 53

Gunnison — 43

Hack Fare, S. F 157

Harbor, A Magnificent _ 243,

Historic Ground 142

Hot Sp ing 32,62, 136

Hotel del Monte, The 211

Humboldt.. 135

Humboldt Lake 136

Ignacio — 95

Independence Lake 141

Irrigation in the Artesian Belt 165

Ironton — 103

Jacksonville 229

Jordon River 60

Junction 145

King's River 164

Kingsburg 164

Ke ton 129

Kyune 55

Lake City 45

Lake City Branch 45

Lake Fork Canon 45

Lake Park 67

La Veta t 71

La Jara... 81

Lathrop 161

Lamanda Park 180, 269. 270

Lake El inore 185

Lake Region, The 136

Lake Tahoe 138 139

Lake Colony . 298-299

Lehigh 59

Leland Stanford Jr., University 204

Leadville 112

Lick Observatory, The 207

Lincoln. 219

Littleton 17

Lower Crossing 54

Los Pinos Valley 89

Los Angeles 169-168

Los Angeles to Santa Barbara 171

Los Angeles to San Diego 1 78

Lordsburg 182

Los Angeles, Returning to 191

Long Beach 201, 277

Los Gates 207

Marshall Pass 41

Marshall Pass Station 41

Manasa 82

Martinez 159

Madera 162

Markets, S. F _ 157

Magnificent Scenery __ _. 99

Malta _. 112

Marysville 219

Manufacturing — .... 236

350

INDEX.

PAGE.

Manitou 23-25

M ears Junction 39

Merchants Exchange, S. F 157

Merced 162

Menlo Park 203

Mission Dolores, The, S. F. ..150-157

Millbrae 201

Mirage 135

Military Post 16

Monarch Branch 37

Montrose 52

Monte Vista 75

Modesto 162

Mojave Desert, The 167

Mojave 167

Montalvo 176

Monrovia 272, 182

Mount of the Holy Cross 124, 113

Monument 129

Moors 131

Monterey _ 213, 300301

Modern Improvements 235

Monument -. -19

Monument Park 19

Murietta 185

Mud Lake 126

Muir's Peak 227

National City 188

Newhall 168

Nevada Desert, The 135

Newcastle 143

North Cocamonga 182

North Ontario 182

North Pomona 182

Oakland Pier 147

Oakland 159

Ocean Side 185

Ogden 127

Ojo Caliente 83

Ojai Valley, The 170

Old Mission, The 175

Ontario 191-194, 279, 284

" Orpheum " Opera House, S. F... 155

Ortega 175

Oreana ...... 135

Oroville 221

Oregon City .. 232

Ouray 105

Ouray to Montrose 107

Overland Pa k 16

Palmer Lake 17

Parnassus Springs 29

Palm Valley 291

Parkdale 37

Palmilla 82

Pagosa Springs 93

Pacific Slope, The _. 95

Panorama Building, S. F 155

Pasadena 178, 261-263

Palisades of the Humboldt 132

Palisade 132

Pacific Grove 213

Penny's Hot Springs 119

PAGE.

Perry Park 17

Phantom Curve 89

Pinole 147

Picturesque Surroundings 236

Pike's Peak 25-27

Pleasant Valley Junction 55

Placer 72

Places of Interest near Espanola__ 86

Plains Region, The 145

Plains Across, The 9

Petersburg ._ 16

Poncha 39

Poncha Pass 39

Poncha Springs 39

Port Costa 147

Post office, S. F _ 157

Point Fermin 172

Pomona 194, 265-267

Portland 232-235, 307-313

Price 54

Provo ^58

Presidio Reservation, S. F i$7

Prospect 119

Promontory 128

Pueblo of San Juan 86

Pueblo de Taos 87

Pueblo of Santa Clara 87

Pueblo .,*: 27-29

Pyramid Lake __ 136

Raymond . . . . 178

Red Narrows _. 56

Redwood 203

Red Cliff Canon 115

Red Cliff 115

Reno.. 137

Red Bluff .- 223

Redding 226

Rialto 182

Riverside 185

Riverside in

Royal Gorge. _ 34

Roseville 189

Robinson's Lake., 121

Rocklin 143

Rogue River Valley 229

Roseburg 231

Rocky M ountains, The - - 1 1

Rye Patch 135

Salida 37

San Luis Branch 39

Sapinero 45

Salt Lake Ci y 60

Salt Lake to Ogden 67

San Luis Park 73

Santa Cruz 86

Santa Fe 87

Sacramento 145

San Francisco 149

San Francisco Bay 151

San Joaquin Valley, The 161

San Fernando Tunnel 168

San Fernando.. 168

San Pedro 171

INDEX.

351

P/GE.

Santa Barbara 173, 172

San Pedro to Santa Barbara 172

San Clemeth Island 172

Santa Catalina Island 172

San Buenaventura 175

Santa Paula 177

Saticoy 175

Saugus 178

San Gabriel Valley, The 181

San Bernardino. 182

San Dimas. 182

San Diego 187

San Diego Bay 188

San Gabriel 197

Santa Monica 197 199, 274

San Mateo 201

San Bruno 201

San Francisco to Monterey 201

Santa Clara 204

San Jose 204-205

Santa Cruz ...209, 207

Salem 231

Scenic Attraction. 231, 121

Seal Rocks 150-157

Selma 164

Seattle 245-249

Seattle, Advantages of 246

Seattle, Beauty of the City 248

Sedalia . 17

Shasta 227

Silver Cliff Branch 34

Sierra Blanca 73

Sierra Madre Villa 181

Silverton 99

Sierra Nevada Range, The ...141, 137

Sisson , 227

Siskiyou Station 229

Soldier Summit 56

Southward Bound 159

South Pasadena, 178

South Riverside 183, 293 295

Source of the Arkansas 124

Soda Springs 142 227

Spanish Fork 56

Spanish Fork Cafton 56

Springville . 56

Spanish Peaks 69

Straits of Carquinez, Crossing the. 147

Stock Exchange, S. F. 157

Street Car Fares, S. F 157

Stage Ride, a Romantic _. 104

State Line, The 229

Sutro Heights, S. F 157

Summit . 142

Sweetwater Dam, The 191

Tacoma 237, 243

Tehachapi Pass ............. 167

PAGE

Tehachapi Summit ... 167

Tennessee Pa>s 113

Tehama 223

Terminal and Shipping Facilities . 243

Tea Trade with the Orient.. 245

Therrnalito Colony 304-305

Tivoli Opera House, S. F. 155

Tipton 165

Tomichi Meadows 43

Toltec Gorge 91

Towns in the Desert . 131

Toano 131

Trinidad 69

Trinidad Branch 69

Trout Fishing in the Rio Grande . 80

Tracy 161

Traver 164

Trimble Hot Springs 97

Truckee _ 137

Trade with S. America and Mexico 241

Trade with the Middle West 243

Tulare County, Resources of 164

Tulare 165

Twin Lakes in

Umpqua, Valley of the 231

United States Mint, S. F 157

Utah Valley.... 5*

Utah Lake 59

Vallejo Junction 147

Valley of the Eagle 115

Vapor Caves, The 119

Valley of the Humboldt 132

Valley Region, The 133

Veta Pass 11

Villa Grove 39

Visalia 16.4

Waunita Hot Springs, The 43

Wasatch Range The 54

Walsens 71

Wagon Wheel Gap Branch .. 75

Wagon Wheel Gap 78

Wadsworth 136

Walker's Lake 136

West Cliff 34

Wellsville Hot Springs 37

Webster 146

Wells 131

Webber Lake 1. 141

Wheatland 219

Wilson's College... 171

Wildomar 185

Winnemucca 133

Winnemucca Lake 136

Wild Scenery 226

Woodward's Gardens, S. F. ...153-155

Yosemite 215

Yuba River, The 210,

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