^}^
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RECOLLECTIONS
OF
CENTRAL AMERICA
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
AT LOS ANGELES
RECOLLECTIONS
OF
CENTRAL AMERICA
AND THE
WEST COAST OF AFRICA,
BY
MRS, FOOTE,
'W'lIDO'^^ OF TPIE L.A.TE
HENEY GRANT FOOTE, Esq.,
Her Britannic Majesty's Consul at Lagos.
. ' , J i J > ■ '
T. CAUTLEY NEWBY, Publisher, 30, Welbeck Street, Cavendish Square.
1869.
[all rights reserved.]
t C < ■ I
• 4
1
4
5 ERRATA.
J -
V^ PAGE.
'^ 65 For "on the morning of 16th April," read "on the
night, &c."
K 71 J^or "Tree Cotton," read "Cotton Tree."
5 78 For "It seemed I was several minutes," read "It
r- seemed I was several seconds."
PAET I.
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL
AMEEICA.
CHAPTER I.
After a residence of upwards of eighteen months
in Grejtown, or San Juan del Norte, in which
place my husband held an official appointment,
he was removed to the neighbouring state of
Salvador; and on the 3rd September, 1853, we
started on our long and toilsome, though interest-
ing, journey.
Perhaps a short description of this bustling,
but little-known seaport of Nicaragua, or Grey-
B
}i EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
town as more commonly called, may not be out of
place.
At the time I was residing there it could
boast of one of the finest harbours in the
world — a naiTOw, but deep passage being the
only inlet into the broad expanse of water which
washed its low, swampy shores.
Large men-of-war, and deeply laden merchant
ships could lie safely at anchor within hail of
land ; and however much the great rolling waves
of the Atlantic might be raging outside, the har-
bour preserved its same calm aspect.
Grey town is built on a loose, sandy soil ; but
on account of the deluges of rain, which last more
or less, nine months of the year, it is extremely
fertile, the grass growing nearly down to the
water's edge. The houses are all built of wood;
and groups of trees have been left here and there,
giving a pretty appearance to the little town,
when seen from the water. Most of these white-
washed buildings have green verandahs and
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 3
porticoes, but are built too slightly and hastily
to have much pretension to beauty.
The inhabitants are principally Americans ;
but there is a sprinkling of Europeans, and the
lower orders are nearly entirely composed of
Nicaraguans, and Jamaica negroes.
In consequence of this mixture of nationalities,
there were a great many days to be observed in
the course of the year. The Americans had their
Fourth of July, the Nicaraguans their " Dia de
Independencia,'' the Jamaica negroes the anni-
versary of the day they became free men, and
last, though not least, the English had their
Twenty -fourth of May, when a royal salute was
fired, and the British flag floated over the
piazza.
I must not let our Queen's birthday pass with-
out mentioning an amusing serenade given by
the black men, beneath our windows, at mid-
night.
After giving three cheers for the Queen, the
B 2
4 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
loyal Jamaicans struck up a most dismal howl,
meant to be " God save the Queen," in which
they swore Her Majesty should " nebber, nebber
be a slave,'' making a medley of " Rule Britannia"
and the National Anthem.
On first arriving at Greytown I could scarcely
sleep from the noise at night of the insects,
which in that burning climate are almost as
numerous as the leaves of the forest.
The tree cockroach, especially, makes a sound
so loud and shrill, that it can be heard at an
immense distance. The frogs, also, during the
rainy season, are great disturbers throughout
the night, keeping up an incessant croaking, in
which the loud, hoarse voice of the bull frog is
prominent.
Snakes, wild boars, and tiger cats abound in
the forests at the back of the town, which are
intersected by numerous small but beautiful
lagoons, whose banks are clothed with beautiftil
trees and flowering creepers. Amongst the
RECOLLECTION'S OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 5
foriiier tlie graceful tamarinds and fan-like
cocoa-nuts were my favourites.
The lovely lakes swarm witli aligators, huge,
slimy monsters, smelling horribly of musk, and
looking, when lying half out of the water, like
trunks of fallen trees.
Sea and fresh-water fish are also to be found
in the lagoons, and our favourite recreation was
a paddle on the still waters in our canoe at sun-
set, where beneath the shade of some towering
tamarind tree we fished, or attempted to fish,
listening to the chattering of the monkeys over-
head, and the wild cry of the parrots and macaws,
disturbed by our near approach.
One of these lagoons is exquisitely beautiful,
being completely embosomed in palm trees,
which here grow to a size I never saw elsewhere.
Not a speck of sun ever visits its still waters,
and all around seems tinged with green from the
meeting of branches overhead.
Everything sounds musical on such a spot —
O EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA.
the cry of the birds, the splash of the oar, even
the lowered tones of the human voice, and the
solitude is so profound that a feeling of solemnity
steals into the mind of the most light-hearted.
The costume of the Nicaraguan women is very
pretty. My astonishment was great when I first
made the acquaintance of my laundress, a pretty
young woman, with an exquisite figure, all
dressed in white muslin and gold spangles.
The loose body, or rather chemisette, of her
dress was separate from her skirt, and cut low
on the neck, with short furbelowed sleeves, and
richly trimmed with gold spangles. The skirt
was also glittering with the same ornaments,
and gave to view a foot and ankle of beautiful
proportions. A rebosa^ or scarf, of coloured
cotton, with a deep fringe, completed her
costume.
A vision of English washerwomen floated in
my mind as I looked on her, and the remem-
brance was not flattering to my national pride.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. /
This magnificent damsel charged no less than
three dollars a dozen for washing, and this was
considered a reasonable price for Greytown,
many requiring five dollars, equal to one pound
British money.
I have heard of some reckless bachelors who
were in the custom of throwing away their
minor articles of clothing after one wear, finding
it cheaper to buy new ones to having them
washed at this rate.
Provisions are also an enormous price in
Greytown — fourpence for one egg, four shillings
for a lean fowl, and wretched meat at a shilling
per pound. Fruit and vegetables are also scarce
and dear, a dreadful privation in the tropics,
where they are not luxuries, but necessaries of
life.
The cause of the excessive price of everything
was the fortnightly influx of Californians, who,
at the time I speak of, made Greytown their route
to and from California.
8 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
In consequence of the bad management of the
transit company these people were often delayed
in the town for want of river steamers to convey
them up the San Juan, and their numbers caused
a perfect famine in the land.
Provisions rose on these occasions to a fabulous
price, and were often unattainable at any, the
consequence of which was many fell victims to
want of proper food and accommodation.
The immense quantity of preserved meat con-
sumed in Greytown was something marvellous.
One Yankee speculator entirely roofed his house
-with the tin plates of meat cans, which used to
shine in the sun like glass. The heat of such a
metal covering may be imagined near the equator.
The opening of the Panama Railroad was the
destruction of the prosperity of Greytown, the
travellers to and from California preferring that
less troublesome route to the two seas. The
beautiful harbour of Greytown has also in late
years been shut out to vessels of large tonnage,
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. U
by a shifting sand bank, which has narrowed the
passage from the sea through which they used
to enter without difficulty.
On the 3rd September, 1853, we bade adieu
to the swampy shores of Greytown, or San Juan
del Norte, as the natives call it, and started on
our long journey to the neighbouring state of
San Salvador. Strange as it may seem, I could
not help feeling a pang of regret as we stepped
on board the little steamer which was to bear us
to another home, and I suppose there is no place in
the Avorld, however disagreeable, where we do not
feel something like this after any lengthened
sojourn. My regret at parting from our old
house was a little lessened, however, by severe
symptoms of fever which had declared themselves
a few days before our departure, and I felt how
necessary it was both for my husband and myself
to have complete change of air, after an eighteen
months' residence in one of the most unhealthy
spots in the world.
10 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMEEICA.
Our fellow-travellers were tlie new American
Minister for Nicaragua, his secretary of legation,
and the American Consul of Grey town. The
Minister had arrived in Greytown a few days
before we intended leaving, and one of the Ameri-
can Company's steamers being placed at his dis-
posal, he kindly asked us to share it with him,
we thereby escaping the misery of a passage by
one of the ordinary steamers, which were always
crowded to suffocation.
These small river steamers are very peculiar
in their construction — long and narrow, with
the paddle-wheel behind, to allow of the vessel
threading its way up the tortuous river San Juan.
The scenery, which, around Greytown is low and
uninteresting, improved as we ascended, and beau-
tiful trees of every form, and various shades of
green, dipped their branches into the river. The
most remarkable of these were the feathery cocoa-
nuts, the eboe, with its purple blossoms, from which
the Indian belles extract an oil for the hair, the
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 11
palm, and the majestic tamarind, but their
beauty was much marred by the thick under-
growth of trees, and rank vegetation of
parasites.
On Sunday morning we arrived at the Cas-
tilleo Kapids. The small town consists of about
fifty miserable houses, and an old Spanish fort,
falling to decay, but occupying a commanding
position on the summit of the hill. The only
interest attaching to it is, that it was the scene
of one of Nelson's early exploits. An unfortun-
ate lieutenant and a few soldiers keep guard in
this dismal residence, and afforded me an oppor-
tunity of admiring the uniform of the gallant
defenders of Nicaragua. It consists simply of a
shirt, anything but white, displaying the arms
al fresco^ trousers with a blue stripe, and any
description of hat or cap which the fancy of the
wearer may suggest. We were obliged to stay
a day at the Castilleo, as there was no steamer
ready to take us on before the next morning.
12 KECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
We found toleraLly comfortable quarters at an
inn, kept by a German and his wife, but our
slumbers were somewhat disturbed by the danc-
ing and fiddling kept up in honour of the arrival
of the American Minister.
The following morning we pursued our voyage
in a small and uncomfortable little steamer.
Three cheers were given us by the few assembled
inhabitants at parting, and an American flag,
nearly as large as the town itself, waved gaily
in the fresh breeze, and I daresay warmed the
hearts of our fellow-travellers, for few things
give such a thrill of pleasure in a foreign country
as the sight of the flag that we love, recalling
home, and loving faces, and old familiar scenes.
The river widened considerably as we ap-
proached the Lake of Granada; and here we
embarked on board the " Ornatepe,'' a large and
commodious steamer, with excellent accommoda-
tion, and a most obliging commander. We
soon arrived at Fort San Carlos, another
KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 13
miserable collection of huts, at the entrance of
the lake, with its " Commandante " and dozen
soldiers. Mr. B and suite Avent on shore
to pay an official visit; but Henry and myself
did not think the place sufficiently inviting to
take the trouble to accompany them, and so we
remained on board, enjoying the delicious, cool
evening breeze.
In about an hour we were again cutting
our way through the clear lake, which is a
magnificent sheet of water, blue as the sky
above, and studded with beautiful volcanic
islands. Before nightfall we came in sight of
the largest of these, Ornatepe, and its sister
island, Madeira, and at mid-night we dropped
anchor in Virgin Bay, a place which will ever
be held in abhorrence by the unfortunate mos-
quito-bitten passengers of the " Ornatepe."
Never before had I suffered so much from the
attacks of these formidable enemies, and the
heavy eyes and cross looks of our fellow-passen-
li RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
gers showed that they had not fared better. The
fresh morning breeze, however, and the know-
ledge that in a few hours we should be in
Granada soon restored our spirits, and Henry
and Mr B. amused themselves by quizzing the
appearance of the rising town of Virgin Bay, to
the great disgust of some of the Americans
present, for the citizens of the vainest nation in
the world pride themselves most particularly
upon the facility with which they build up their
wooden towns.
The little town of Virgin Bay consists of a
collection of small houses, principally constructed
of wood, but neatly painted and whitewashed,
gleaming on the side of a sloping hill. The
situation is certainly very beautiful, with the
calm clear lake at its base, and the blue moun-
tains of Ornatepe almost directly opposite. The
usual " Deputation of American Citizens " came
off to pay their respects to their minister, and
armed, of course, with many complaints, which
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 15
they considered it his bounden duty immediately
to redress.
Virgin Bay is a short cut to the Pacific, and
a few miles on horseback over very bad roads,
will, I believe, take the traveller to San Juan
del Sul, which lies nearly opposite, on the Pacific
side. This was the favourite route to California
until the completion of the Panama railway.
In a short time we were again on our way, and
at four o'clock anchored in sight of Granada,
the first Spanish town on the lake. We imme-
mediately landed, glad to be once more on terra
firma^ for however comfortable a ship may be,
it is still but a floating prison, and in a tropical
climate about the hottest prison you can be in.
Henry and myself were most kindly received at
the house of a German merchant, who fortunately
spoke English very well. We spent a pleasant
week at Granada, which is considered the first
commercial town of the state of Nicaragua. To
an European eye, accustomed to houses of three
16 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA.
and four stories in height, those of Granada
appear insignificant, as they are ail built long
and low on account of the frequent earthquakes,
but this impression is dispelled on entering the
courtyard, open to the sky, and surrounded by
large, lofty, well-furninshed rooms. In every
bed-room a grass hammock is slung, inviting the
lazy to repose, and making even the most active
incline to indulge in the dolcefar niente of life.
We took several charming rides about the
environs of Granada, which are exceedingly
pretty, the blue lake forming an exquisite
foreground to waving woods, for ever green.
During our stay, my husband was invited to a
banquet, given by the authorities of Granada to
the American Minister, at which the speech of one
of the notabilities present particularly struck him
as indicative of the unsettled state of the Nicara-
guan mind at that epoch. On rising to return
thanks for the toast of " Nicaragua," this gentle-
man expressed his fervent hope " that in a short
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 17
time the state of Nicaragua might form one of
the brightest stars in the c^lorious flag of the
United States;" a hope that the notorious
Walker subsec|ueQtly endeavoured to fulfiL
On the 1st of September everything was
arranged for our departure, and we and the
American minister agreed to form one party;
but the Fates had ordained it otherwise. Every-
one in Granada advised us to try mules instead
of horses, as the roads at this season were very
heavy. We consented to do so, though I have
always had an inveterate dislike to those most
self-willed of animals. At four o'clock we were
ready to start, the three baggage mules having
been sent on in advance. Several friends accom-
panied us, and we formed quite a large cavalcade
through the streets of Granada. Before we had
proceeded more than a mile, I began to enter-
tain doubts of my mule ; he shied at all the pigs
and chickens, which in Granada pick up a scanty
living in the streets, and as soon as he got into
c
18 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
the open country, he fairly ran away with me
into the hushes. Henry insisted on my dis-
mounting and trying his mule, which was of
rather a more amiahle disposition, while he
jumped on the hack of mine, imagining that a
man's strength would soon conquer his refractory
spirit; but the contest ended in the creature
breaking the strong iron bit between his teeth,
so we determined to return to the town, and
exchange our mules for horses.
We had scarcely reached our friend's house
when the truth of those words, " whatever is, is
best," was forcibly proved to us by a fearful
thunderstorm bursting over our heads, accom-
panied by a deluge of rain, to all of which we
should have been exposed but for my uncom-
promising mule. We thought with commisera-
tion of our poor fellow travellers who had con-
tinued their journey, and were, therefore, in the
midst of the down pour.
Next morning, at eight o'clock, we again made
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 19
a start, having procured two docile, but spirited
little horses, whose easy "andar" made riding no
fatigue. Several gentlemen of Granada accom-
panied us as far as Masaga, a large Indian town
six leagues from Granada, very prettily situated
in the midst of fruit trees. The roads were
fearfully muddy, and our horses often sank above
their knees, but we were a merry party, notwitli-
standing all difficulties, and arrived without
accident at our first resting place.
Masaga boasts of two or three posadas and
about half a dozen churches, and is famous for
the manufacture of straw mats, which in this hot
climate are an excellent substitute for carpets.
They are exceedingly fine in texture, and either
entirely white, or ornamented with squares of
black and red alternately, the efiect of which is
very pretty. They are not over durable, how-
ever, seldom lasting more than a year, but their
price is low. They are entirely manufactured
by the Indians, who seem to be extremely expert
c 2
20 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTKAL AMERICA.
with tlieir hands. Their carved bowls, made
from the tree gourds, are beautiful and curious,
considering the only tool employed is a common
pen-knife.
Henry, who had been much in the East, was
struck by the great resemblance the Indians of
Central America bear to the Malays, the features,
hair, and colour of skin, being precisely similar.
The fame of our arrival soon spread through
the town, and presently the posada was besieged
by a motly crowd, all anxious to get a peep at
the " estrangeros."
Several children with whooping-cough w^ere
brought to me to cure, the poor Indians imagin-
ing that all foreigners must have a knowledge of
the healing art. I took out my homoepathic box
and dosed them with sundry globules of bella-
donna, much to the awe and astonishment of the
assembled mothers, who seemed to expect that
some miracle Avas about to be performed. After
a time the crowd dispersed, and we enjoyed a
night's refreshing rest after our long ride.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERtCA. 21
CHAPTER II.
In the morning we proceeded on our journey to
Managua, a distance of eight leagues. The
country through which we passed was most
beautiful — a perfect wilderness of trees and
flowers, often reminding me of Devonshire in
its fertile loveliness and rich red soil. What a
pity that such an exquisite country should be
allowed to run to waste ! Often for several leagues
there was not a sign of any living thing, except
the wild forest birds overhead. It seemed
strange even to hear our own voices in this
22 EE0OLLECTIONS OP CENTKAL AMERICA.
beautiful solitude, and I thought Milton must
have imagined such a scene when he wrote his
" Comus."
A short Avay from Managua a strange sight met
our view. A whole valley lay before us, one
mass of black lava, looking like an immense
ploughed field.
This eruption must have occurred many years
ago, and the volcano is now considered extinct,
but not the less dangerous, perhaps, for its hidden
fires.
In the afternoon we arrived at Managna, the
seat of the Government (or mis-government
rather), of the State of Nicaragua. We rode up
to the principal hotel, and there met once more
with our fellow-travellers who had come to their
journey's end, and gave us a most laughable
account of their adventures since we parted.
Mr. B — congratulated us that we had escaped
that dreadful night when his horse had rolled
.with him in the mud three times.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 23,
The rain commenced almost directly after oiir
arrival, so we had no chance of seeing any-
thing of the town, but as far as we could
judge from the windows of the hotel, it was poor
enough. I reclined in the large hammock all
the evening, rather tired after my two days'
journey, while the gentlemen sat around talk-
ing and smoking, that delightful resource, and per-
haps the cause of the idleness in which men and
women equally indulge in this country. The
unusual sight of so many foreigners of course
drew a crowd to the doors, so much so, indeed,
that we were often forced to close them.
Next morning we bade adieu with much regret
to our^American friends, as we were in a hurry to
get to our journey's end, the rains increasing in
violence every day. The scenery continued most
beautiful with tantalizing glimpses of the lake of
Managna meeting us at every turn of the road, and
I regretted much not having time to get a nearer
view. At three o'clock we arrived at Matrares
24 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
— a wretched little Indian village with one poor
posada. The rain was coming down in torrents,
or I think we should have proceeded, so great
was Henry's disgust at the dirt and discomfort of
everything.
After a sleepless night, we were ready for a
start by day-break, and the sweet morning air
refreshed us, for nothing can be more delicious
than the first three hours of the day in the rainy
season. The sun rises brilliantly, with scarcely
a cloud to be seen in the sky, while the rain of
the previous night has given an exquisite cool-
ness and lightness to the clear atmosphere. At
eight the sun becomes oppressively hot, and
heavy clouds are seen looming in the distance,
fortelling the deluge that will follow at three
o'clock.
After passing through one pretty Indian
village, called Nagarote, full of magnificent trees,
we arrived at our next resting place — a charm-
ingly situated little town inhabited principally
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 25
by Indians, and bearing a very indifferent
character for honesty throughout the State — but
we had no reason to comphiin of PueWa Nueva,
as we found more comfortable quarters than we
had yet met with in Nicaragua, always except-
ing Granada. The posada was kept by a nice
old widow, u'ith a large family of pretty daugh-
ters ; it was delightfully clean, and everything
about the place showed a refinement rarely to be
met with in Nicaragua. I felt quire ready for
another eight leagues ride after, I believe, about
twelve hours sleep, and though it has been said
that no one should sleep more than eight hours
at a time, I wish the hard-hearted wret^ih who
uttered the rash opinion could travel in Central
America in the rainy season.
A wayside cross attracted our attention just
on the outskirts of Puebla Nueva, and on enquiry,
we found it was the spot where an unfortunate
English merchant captain had been murdered a
year before. He was taking a quiet walk, when
26 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
a dozen men rushed out upon him from the
neighbouring wood, robbed him of everything he
possessed, and after liacking him cruelly with
their machetes (akind'of bowie knife with which
every Indian goes armed), left him for dead ; the
man who drove the cart containing his luggage
and pistols was unfortunately in advance, but
getting alarmed at his non-appearance, returned
in search of him, and bore him to the next
village, where he shortly expired. How sad, yet
beautiful, is the appearance of these way-side
crosses, with their chaplets of fresh flowers?
generally to be met with in the most lonely
forest roads, and in spots where one would
imagine a thought of evil could never be
liarboured.
The roads between Puebla Nueva and Leon are
very good, and we made the eight leagues at
the rate of six miles an hour, which is very well
for Central American travelling. The two last
leagues of our journey were excessively hot, as
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMERICA. 27
the neiglibourhood of Leon is more destitute of
trees than any other part of Nicaragua that we
had seen. We were glad after our fatiguing ride
to find ourselves comfortably housed in a beauti-
ful English-looking room, with curtained win-
dows, and easv-chairs in abundance. The owner
7 w
of this mansion — an English merchant, long
resident in the country — was absent ; but we
were most kindly welcomed by his wife and
sister.
We stayed a week in this dull, old cathedral
town, in the hope of hearing of some vessel
leaving the seaport of Realejo for La Union, in
San Salvador. Leon is so like an old cathedral
town in England in its venerable dullness,
that had it not been for the dark faces and
strange costumes of the inhabitants, I could have
fancied myself once more in Salisbury or
Exeter. Nothing to me is so dispiriting
as a dull town. I can enjoy the deep
solitude of the forest, feel rapture in a wild
28 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
mountain path, or on a lonely sea-shore, and
there is no music so sweet to my ears as the rush
of the waves, or the whisper of the trees ; but, a
dull town is the worst of all solitudes. Leon
can boast of rather a fine cathedral, it being a
massive stone edifice, in better repair than most
of the Central American churches ; but not to be
named with the Roman Catholic cathedrals of
Europe. It is entirely destitute of fine carving
and pictures, while the ornaments used in adorn-
ing tlie altars are mean and tawdry. We
ascended the tower by a winding stair, to have a
view of the surrounding country, which is
certainly very beautiful, and almost repaid one
for mounting so many stairs— no light feat in a
tropical climate.
After waiting in vain to hear of some chance
of proceeding by sea, we determined to ride to
Chinandega — a prettily situated town twelve
miles from Leon. Miss M agreed to
accompany us, her brother having a house at
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMERICA. 29
Chinanclega, where she kindly asked us to lodge.
The horses we procured at Leon were most
miserable animals, but no better were to be had;
mine was a perfect Eosinante, and excited peals
of laughter whenever I tried to put him into a
gallop, from the extraordinary method lie had of
kicking out one leg behind, trying apparently
to make it do double duty. We passed through
a lonely fertile country ; but the roads, being
very flat, were in a dreadful state from the heavy
rains that had fallen. After passing through
several deep places converted into rivers, we ar-
rived at Chinandega, completely exhausted with
the exertion of urging on our wretched horses,
which seemed ready to drop at every step.
Chinandega is completely surrounded by fruit
trees; oranges and mangoes predominate, and
there must be lovely rides in the neighbourhood
as the roads are level and well kept, for Nicaragua.
There is only one English lady in the town, who,
poor thing, must be lonely enough ; from her and
30 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
her husband we received every kind attention
during our week's stay.
As no ship was heard of, we determined to
proceed by the Gulf of Fonseca to La Union, a
far more flitiguing route, but I was not sorry to
escape a sea voyage in a wretched sailing vessel,
particularly as it gave me an opportunity of
seeing the country.
We now bade adieu to horseback travelling for
a time, as the six leagues between Chinandega
and Tampisqui, our place of embarkation, were
pronounced impassable, even for a mule, and an
ox cart was the only alternative. All the old
ladies of Nicaragua make use of these primitive
vehicles in the rainy season, and really they are
well suited for the roads of mud and water,
mingled with huge stones, which we had to
encounter on our way. No words can describe
the awful jolting to which we were victims for the
next four hours, plunging down into bogs which
fairly buried the wheels, then up again over
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 31
stones which the depth of the water had con-
cealed. We were at last too tired even to laugh,
and arrived at the river Tampisqui quite worn
out.
We found there our bungo, a large boat covered
with an awning of palm leaves and hides, wait-
ing for us with its crew of four Indians. The
stream where we embarked was most uninterest-
ing, being remarkable for nothing but its swarms
of sand flies, little venemous creatures far worse
than mosquitoes. We breakfasted seated on a
log of wood during a furious onslaught of our
enemies, and after a wearisome delay of an hour
found ourselves in the bungo where we were to
pass the night.
Before sunset we reached the Gulf of Fonseca
which is very beautiful, with several picturesque
islands scattered over it. We were fortunate in
having very fine weather until night, when a
slight shower fell, and then our bungo miseries
32 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
commenced, for the Indians who dislike rain as
much as any cat, immediately covered the boat
with thick hides which excluded every breath of
air; I awoke in the night gasping and found
Henry in the same condition, so we frantically
called out for air to the sleeping Indians who
were apparently perfectly indifferent to that
necessary of life, and they slowly and reluctantly
unfastened the hides.
How delicious it was, that first breath of pure
night air to my parched throat. Henry and I sat
out at the stern of the boat till dawn of day when
we again laid ourselves down to try to get a little
sleep, and the Indians once more bent to their oars,
singing their wild melancholy songs, which
mingled strangely with my half waking dreams.
I felt so ill all the next day that I could scarcely
raise my head from the pillow ; the heat was
intense and the glare from the sparkling water
so intolerable to my aching brain that I did not
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 3;:J
revive at all until the evening, when the news
that we were approaching the port of La Union
acted like magic on me.
The Indians wished to drop anchor for the
night some way off the entrance of the harbour,
but by the promise of something additional if
they proceeded, we at last found ourselves at eight
o'clock in the evening at the landing place.
There arose a violent wind with dark heavy
clouds, which every moment threatened us with
a deluge, but we were determined to land, so in
the midst of darkness and a driving wind we
first set foot on the shores of Salvador. We
arrived at the posada just in time to escape
the rain, and what a luxury it was to have
plenty of space and fresh air, after the horrible
bungo.
The town of La Union is prettily situated,
commanding an extensive view of the mountains
of Honduras, and the lovely blue Gulf of Fonseca.
At the time we were there, the town did not
D
34 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
possess more than lialf a dozen good liouses, but
it lias wonderfully increased during the last
few years, and is rapidly becoming one of the
busiest and most prosperous towns on the coast.
Unfortunately it has a bad name for fevers,
which are more fatal on the sea coast than
they are inland, a peculiarity of all tropical
countries.
There were two or three English, and about
as many Americans, living there when we ar-
rived, and they of course found us out at once,
for anyone speaking the English language in
Central America is looked upon as a Godsend by
the poor sons of old England, and still more so
by the Americans, who are worse linguists even
than the French.
Mr. Squires, the author of an amusing and
clever work on Central America was one of our
constant visitors during the two days we were
there, and he seemed to forget that we belonged
to that hated England which is continually the
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA. 35
tlieme of his animadversions. English and
Americans may abuse each other and quarrel in
print, but it is wonderful how all this changes
when they meet in a strange country where the
dear accents of the English tongue are seldom
heard. Petty jealousy and enmities are then
forgotten, while they only remember that they
descended from the same noble stock.
After remaining two days to recruit, we pro-
cured a couple of horses and three baggage mules
and proceeded on our journey. Mr. Squires
accompanied us a few miles out of the town, this
being a Central American mark of courtesy, and
then bade us adieu with many a warning of the
terrible roads we should encounter.
36 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
CHAPTER III.
The roads were in truth much more hilly and
stony than any we had yet passed, and we made
in consequence but slow progress. At ahout
twelve o'clock we reached a pretty little "village
where we stopped to breakfast. The posada and
everything about it was remarkably clean, and
the owner of it, who was the Alcalde, or magis-
trate of the place gave Henry another horse in
exchange for the one he brought from La Union,
which was a wretched animal — slow and insecure.
After resting myself for an hour in the nice
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 37
clean Iiaramock we proceeded on our journey,
much refreshed by the delicious coffee and fresh
eggs, two luxuries always obtainable in the
poorest houses in Central America. Mr. Squires
had warned us of the raud we sliould have to en-
counter between this village and San Miguel;
but it almost exceeded his description, and at one
place in particular I really thought our horses
would have sunk altogether.
It was a wild, desolate-looking plain on the
crown of a hill ; myriads of locusts were flying,
over it, darkening the air, and leaving a wasted
country behind them, for these destructive insects
eat up every green leaf they can find; they
whizzed past my ears, and flapped against my
face in the most disagreeable manner, while my
poor horse shook his head and snorted with an-
noyance, and I was heartily glad when a turn
in the road took us out of their line of fliofht,
and we found ourselves in a valley, with a very
tolerable road before us,
195262
38 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA.
We were so tired of the slow pace at which we
had been travelling all day that Henry and I de-
termined to take advantage of the comparative
smoothness of the roads, and set of at a fast trot
which soon left our lazy baggage mules and
guides behind us. The two latter were the most
disagreeable specimens of the race that we had
yet encountered, and it was quite a blessing to
lose sight of their sulky faces ; but before long
we would gladly have seen them again.
It was just sunset when we arrived at two or three
wayside cottages, where we asked the people how
far it yet was to San Miguel, and they told us it
Avas only two leagues, " more or less," a very
favourite term of theirs, but generally meaning
more^ and not less ; also, that it was a good
road, so off we started again, thinking that we
could easily arrive at our journey's end before
nightfall; but we did not know that there was a
deep river to ford, and plenty of mud holes on
the road we had been told was so good.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 39
We were riding gaily along, finding the mud
every minute getting deeper, when Henry thought
we should fare better by striking into a by-path
which, like most short cuts, proved a long one
in the end, for we had not ridden far when we
lost all trace of the high road, and at last came
to the disagreeable conclusion that we had lost
our way.
We at length found ourselves in a wild cattle
track, with grass growing as high as our horses'
heads, and the darkness so intense that we could
not see each other a few yards off. Black heavy
clouds obscured the sky, and there was that
ominous stillness in the air which is always the
precursor of a tropical thunder-storm. I had
such a horror of our losing ourselves in the
wildernesss, that I proposed remaining where we
were until daylight, but Henry hit upon a better
plan, and that was to turn our horses' heads,
and trust to their sagacity for retracing their
steps to the main road. To our great relief we
40 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
soon found ourselves in the road we had left, but
still our position was far from a pleasant one, for
the rain came down in torrents, and the thunder
and lightning were terrific.
My horse was at last so dreadfully alarmed by
one awful flash and the deafening peal that suc-
ceeded it, that he absolutely refused to go on,
whirling round and round in a perfect river of
water. I called aloud to my husband, who was
leading the way, to stop ; but the rushing rain
and the wind completely drowned my voice.
Fortunately for me the next brilliant flash, light-
ing up the road, he missed me, and immediately
returned to my rescue ; but my horse obstinately
refused to proceed, and neither spurring nor
coaxing having the slightest effect upon him,
Henry dismounted, and led both animals by the
bridle through a road that Avas one mass of mud
and deep water. I cannot describe my joy when
Henry exclaimed, "Ah! there is alight; we are
coming to the houses that we passed at sunset."
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 41
For some time, however, the people refused us
admittance, imagining, I suppose, that only
suspicious characters could be about on such
a night, but at last our bad Spanish convinced
tbem we were strangers, and they cautiously un-
fastened the door.
It was a wretched little hovel; but a bright
wood fire burning in one corner looked delight-
fully cheerful after what we had gone through.
The people informed us, however, that our mules
and men had passed a short time before the rain
commenced, and were safely housed in a cottage
about half a mile off, so we determined to pro-
ceed there at once, and one of the men act-
ing as our guide, I re-mounted my dripping
horse, Henry still leading him by the rein, and
in a short time we arrived at the cottage, where
we found our amiable guides comfortably seated
before a roaring wood fire, as perfectly indifferent
to our fate as could be. I must say I felt indig-
nant; and Henry abused them in English most
42 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
heartily, with now and then a Spanish ohjurga-
tion to crive force to his words: but thev smiled
languidly, looking with a sort of sleepy amuse-
ment at Henry's boots as he drew them off; and
they were indeed a sight, each being full of
water up to the brim.
The poor people of the cottage were exceed-
ingly kind, the old woman giving up her bed to
me — a clean and comfortable one — though I had
nothing softer to lie upon than the strips of hide
covered with an Indian mat, the universal substi-
tute for mattresses, an unknown luxury amongst
the peasant class.
As soon as our clothes were dry next morning
we started once more, and soon found ourselves
on the banks of the river, which we had to cross
to get to San Miguel, our next resting-place.
We attempted first to go over on horseback, but
we found the river so deep that we turned back
and crossed by the less romantic, but more com-
fortable means of a ferry boat.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
43
The neigh bourliood of San Miguel was the
most uninteresting country we had yet seen, the
volcano towerino; above the town beino; the
only picturesque object. We arrived at the city
at twelve o'clock, just as the sun was beginning
to scorch us in a very unpleasant manner, and
we were glad to find ourselves at the comfortable
house of Senor Sonsa, a Spanish merchant, to
whom we had a letter of introduction.
Senor Sonsa and his family were absent at
their country house, but we were welcomed most
kindly by his partner, an old Genoese, who
placed the whole house at our " dispocision," or
service, a courtly phrase universal among the
higher orders of Central Americans, and indeed
of all Spaniards.
San Miguel is a pretty, clean little town, the
Liverpool of San Salvador, more commerce being
carrried on here than in any other town of the
State. It holds three or four fairs in the course
of the year. The principal one, which takes
44 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
place in November, is attended hy crowds from
all the Central American States, the chief deal-
ings being in indigo and cochineal. It is con-
sidered the most unhealthy town in Salvador,
and many yearly fall victims to their love of
gain, or the necessities of business, for the fever
generally attacks strangers.
After our adventures by flood and field, it was
really pleasant to rest for two days in such com-
fortable quarters. The plaza is very cheerful,
from the immense number of market women who
sit before their stalls from sunrise till eight o'clock
at night, talking and laughing incessantly. In
these States every article of food excepting groce-
ries, is bought in the market, there being neither
butchers' nor greengrocers' shops to be seen.
Piles of tempting fruits and vegetables are
brought in by the country people, at the first
dawn of day, and from seven till twelve the
market is a gay scene, crowded by servants
with their many coloured rehosas^ or scarfs,
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTBAL AMERICA. 45
fluttering about from stall to stall, making their
purchases. From twelve to four the market is
almost deserted by buyers, but at that hour more
fish is fried, and more tortillas made ready for
supper. The tortilla is the Indian corncake,
the substitute for bread universally used through-
out Central America. It is very palatable when
quite hot and soaked in butter, but a cold tortilla
is one of the heaviest and nastiest things
that can be imagined, becoming as tough as
leather an hour after it is made.
The market place looks exceedingly pretty
after sunset, when every woman lights her candle
at the stall over which she presides, thus form-
ing a perfect illumination.
The rehosa also adds greatly to the beauty of
the scene. It is a long scarf, woven by the
people of the country, and is made of either
cotton or silk in every colour, rich purple and
scarlet being the favourites. It is ornamented
with a deep fringe at each end, and is most be-
coming and graceful, either worn over the head
46 KECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
or slioiilJers. When a number of women are col-
lected together they look like a bed of tulips
waving in the breeze, their slow, swimming walk
as they pass along being the very perfection of
grace.
We witnessed a very impressive sight one day
when the procession of the Host passed through
the market into the church. It was accompanied
by about fifty women, their heads covered by
their rehosas, in respect for the holy symbol
they Avere following. As the Host was carried
past every woman in the crowded market place
knelt down, and many of the men, and I could
not help being touched by the spirit of venera-
tion expressed in every upturned face.
On the third morning of our stay, I felt suf-
ficiently recruited to proceed, so fresh horses were
procured, and we bade adieu to our kind enter-
tainer. Our road lay through the most beauti-
ful country we had yet seen, and as we started
fresh we could fully appreciate its beauties.
' A succession of splendid mountains ar.d shaded
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 47
valleys, and rushing torrents of purest water,
made our journey so enchanting that I felt in a
dream of delight, and rode on with a heart too
full for words, awed by the majesty of the "ever-
lasting hills," with their wooded heights and blue
volcanic peaks.
We arrived at the pretty little village of
Umanos at about four o'clock, and found the
posada a wretched place, but we had a room to
ourselves and our mogo (boy) was aparagon,taking
all trouble off our hands, and observant of every
wish.
We started next morning at dawn, but this
day's journey was not quite so pleasant as that
of the day before, the heat being intense, and
the roads excessively muddy, after a night of
pouring rain. We reached a wayside farm at
mid-day, and there rested for two hours ; a lounge
in the cool grass hammock and a cup of excellent
coffee being very grateful after our hot ride.
At two o'clock we were again obliged to start
48 RECOLLECTIONS OF CiiNTEAL AMERICA.
in order to reach the little village of Lempa be-
fore nightftill.
The country became more level every step of
the way, and at last on emerging from a
melancholy-looking forest, we arrived at sunset
at the river Lempa — a rather broad stream, but
very turbid and muddy. In the rainy season it
is the largest river in the State, and the only
one, I believe, navigable for vessels, most of the
rivers being nothing more than mountain torrents
a few yards in width, shallow and rapid, but so
exquisitely clear, that every pebble and rock can
be seen at the bottom. Henry said they resem-
bled exactly the mountain streams in Scotland,
often reminding him of his beloved Spey.
We crossed the river in a large ferry boat, and
soon arrived at the village of Lempa, which was
composed of a few scattered huts on the steep
bank ; the posada was such a dirty place, so
full of pigs, dogs, cocks, and hens, and ill-kept
children, that we turned away in disgust, and
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 49
determined to find some other place to sleep in ;
so after wandering about some time, we found a
cane shed, occupied by an old woman, whose
whole worldly goods seemed to consist of one old
bedstead, and we quickly bargained with her for
the possession of her property for the night,
grateful to find some place where we could at
least be quiet. Henry was so hot and exhausted
that he went to bathe in the river, but was
somewhat disturbed in his enjoyment by seeing
an immense alligator within a few yards of him.
These animals are fortunately very cowardly,
seldom attacking first, though accidents while
bathing do occasionally occur. The inhabit-
ants of this village were very dirty and dis-
agreeable, and I was heartily glad after a
sleepless night to mount my horse once more and
bid adieu to Lempa with it swarms of dogs, pigs
and mosquitoes.
We again entered upon a most enchanting
E
50 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
country, the road continually on the ascent ; but
so precipitous in some places, that it seemed
impossible that any animal but a goat could scale
them. The horses, however, of San Salvador
are wonderfully sure-footed, and in the most
difficult parts I always let my horse pick his
own way. The great beauty of this country
consists in its verdure, combined with grandeur,
lovely brilliant flowers springing out of the bare
rocks, and when you reach the summit of a
mountain several thousand feet high you find the
land as rich and wooded as the smiling valley at
its foot.
After resting for an hour at a pretty wayside
posada, surrounded by splendid trees, we again
started for San Vicente, which town we reached
at sunset. Tt is very beautifully situated at the
base of a volcano, which frowns majestically over
it. We were most kindly received by the wife
of the gentleman to whom we had brought a
RECOLLECTIONS OE CENTRAL AMERICA. 51
letter, and though he was absent, she welcomed
us with true Spanish cordiality — hospitality to
strangers being one of the Central American
virtues, and as much considered a duty in the
far west as it is in the east, so that the best of
everything is given to the stranger with a warmth
and kindness seldom to be met with in more
civilized countries.
After a good night's rest in a clean comfort-
able room, and an excellent breakfast, we started
for Cojutepeque, only six leagues off. This little
town boasts of one of the best climates in the
State, and certainly it is impossible to imagine
anything more pure and exhilarating than was the
air of the mountains as we approached. We stop-
ped to breakfast a second time at a little village,
whose beauty made me almost envious of the poor
people whose lot had thrown them into such a
paradise. The town of Cojutepeque was dis-
tinctly visible on the side of a neighbouring
52 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
mountain, gleaming white in the brilliant sun-
shine, while as flir as the eye could reach, moun-
tains and valleys succeeded one another in end-
less variety, and fields of the feathery rice and
golden Indian corn, with groups of houses and
cocoa-nut trees, gave animation to the scene,
the blue mountains stretching far away in
the distance, and formed an appropriate back
ground.
After climbing a tremendous hill with natural
fountains of the purest water gushing from the
rocks, we reached Cojutepeque, having had a
very agreeable ride. We were kindly received
at the house of the gentleman to whom we had
an introduction, and our windows looking out on
the Plaza^ we amused ourselves by watching the
motley crowd who thronged it from morning till
night. We spent a very pleasant day at the
coffee plantation of an English gentleman,
ntuated close to the town, and for the first
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 53
time I saw that lovely plant in full bloom
with its snow white blossoms and glossy green
leaf.
After a stay of two days, we started for San
Salvador, the capital of the State, and reached it
at three o'clock in the afternoon.
54 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA.
CHAPTER lY.
How strange were my sensations as we entered
San Salvador and thought of the long way we
had come without danger or difficulty. I could
scarcely believe that our delightful journey was
really over, and felt a pang of regret as I dis-
mounted from my horse at the house of
the gentleman to whom we had brought a
letter of introduction.
The environs of the city are very beautiful,
being one mass of luxuriant orange and mango
trees, bending beneath their load of fruit, and
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 55
the cottages of the poor people are remarkably
neat and clean, each surrounded by its own
beautiful shrubbery of fruit trees. It is strange
that the higher classes should prefer living in the
city, the consequence of which is there is scarcely
one gentleman's house to be seen in this garden of
beauty. When we tried to procure a residence
in the suburbs the good people of Salvador
opened their eyes in astonishment, and told us
that no gente decenfe (people of position), ever
lived out of the town, so, determined to do at
Rome as the Romans do, we contented ourselves
with a town house. By the end of a fortnight
we had bought the necessary furniture for our
new abode; cool yellow Indian mats covered the
floors, and the inevitable grass hammock was
slung in my bedroom. Like all Central
American houses it had a large open court in the
centre, with some fine orange trees to shade it,
a wide corridor supported by pillars encircled
the court like the cloisters of a convent, and on
56 KECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
this our rooms opened with large folding doors,
making them delightfully cool.
We found the climate very pleasant in the
dry season, which commences in the month of
November, the most charming month of the
year in Central America, the rain having only
just ceased, and there being no dust, while the
foliage is of the most brilliant green, and all the
wild flowers are in full bloom, making the
country lovely with their gorgeous colors. There
is one flower particularly beautiful, of the con-
volvulus tribe, but of an immense size and of
every color, also a small crimson creeper called
Frendas d'amor (chains of love) which runs
along the ground, and was a special favorite of
mine, but these unfortunately have no perfume.
There are, however, wild flowers as sweet smell-
ing as any of Europe, it being a great mistake
to imagine that all tropical wild flowers are
scentless. The country about San Salvador is
very beautiful, but the roads are bad, which draw-
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 57
back to enjoyment is the less tliought of as nearly
every one keeps a horse for riding.
We had not been long settled in our new home
before we were invited by a Spanish gentleman
to pay a visit to his country estate, about six
leagues from the city. We gladly availed our-
selves of tlie opportunity of seeing what country
life was like in Salvador, so at four o'clock in
the morning we started, two good horses being
placed at our disposal by our host. We had a
charming ride through some lovely scenery, and
in a few hours found ourselves at the Cattle
Estate.
A green prairie as smooth as a lake lay
stretched before us, encircled by wooded hills.
Great taste had been displayed in the selec-
tion of a spot whereon to build the house, a
long low structure with a broad covered corridor
in front, and seated between the pillars there, one
might lounge away a lifetime looking at the
lovely view. Everything about the house was
58 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
exquisitely clean and neat, a great contrast to
most Central American country houses, whicli
are generally mere barns, as the owners and their
families seldom live in them, leaving a bailiff to
attend to their estates, but here, European refine-
ment was everywhere visible.
As T was too fatigued to explore much that
day, our host arranged a pretty sight for me in
the evening. He sent the vaqueras (horsemen
who have the care of the cattle) to summon the
animals from every part of the immense estate.
About a dozen started in as many different
directions, each blowing on his horn the long
peculiar note understood by the cattle. This
summons had not been sounded more than half
an hour, when we saw them slowly wending their
way down the hills, beautiful glossy cows with
the calves frisking behind, and huge stately bulls
who every now and then gave a deep impatient
bellow for the salt that they knew awaited them
in the enclosure. They are accustomed to have
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 69
this treat about once a week, and are so passion-
ately fond of it that they will come any distance
to obtain it, and the fiercest bulls are tamed in
this way. It was a curious sight to see them all
assembled, an eager crowd of many hundreds,
but one bull had such a particularly awful
voice that I was glad to be out of his reach.
At dawn of day I was awakened by the lowing
multitude who were again wending their way to
their mountain pastures.
Our host showed us with pride his infant
coffee plantation, which looked very flourishing,
but it is a plant which requires great care for the
first four years, when, if all goes well, it bears
its first crop. The coffee of San Salvador is
nearly equal to that of Costa Eica, but only
enough is cultivated for home consumption, most
landed proprietors preferring to employ their
capital in sugar, rice, or tobacco, which yield
a crop every year. Cotton blooms all the year
round, and no doubt might be greatly improved
60 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
in quality, were proper care bestowed upon it,
but for want of machinery for the cleaning pro-
cess, only a small quantity is planted, and that
generally by the poor Indians.
After spending three most pleasant days at
this Hacienda^ we returned to San Salvador,
where we found that life in Central America was
not without its enjoyments, though we had
neither operas, nor concerts, nor balls, as in
more civilized lands ; but the early morning
gallop through a lovely county, and the moon-
lit lounge in the Plaza, where a really good band
played every evening, were pleasures that can
be enjoyed daily without palling.
One custom struck us as very peculiar in this
state. Everyone, from the President downwards
keeps a shop, and no one objects to appear
behind his counter and sell you a reel of cotton,
the wives and daughters often officiating in the
same capacity, and gossipping with friends, with
the counter between them, as if they were in
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 61
their drawing rooms; yet one of these ladies
showed me her wardrobe one day, containing no
less than twelve splendid velvet dresses, and
silks innumerable.
There are only four classes besides soldiers in
Salvador — great shopkeepers, little shopkeepers,
servants, and agriculturists ; the latter class
are the pure Indians, and generally have their
own little piece of land and house on it. The
soldiers are all taken from this class, as they are
a far braver and finer race of men than the
Ladinos^ the mixed Indian and Spanish race,
and when efficiently commanded they have been
known to fight well. The Ladinos are often
very handsome, especially the women, who
generally retain the beautiful Spanish figure and
graceful walk of their fairer sisters, the features
also partaking more of the Spanish than Indian
type, but the coarse lank hair, and tawny skin
betray their origin.
Servants, male and female, or very small
62 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
shopkeepers compose this class entirely. There
are a few families who boast of a pure Spanish
descent, and they are not a little proud of their
sangue azul^ hut these are so few they can
easily be counted.
The ladies are much given to gossip and
dress, but are kind-hearted and hospitable, and
generally good wives and mothers. Their
education is very limited indeed, and their
only reading consists in translations from French
novels ; but they have a great taste for music,
and most of them play either the piano or
guitar better than is commonly heard in England.
They are also capital women of business, and in
the absence of their male relations transact all
commercial affairs in a way that is astonishing
to an English lady. On this account, I suppose,
there are far fewer cases of dreadful poverty
amongst women than in other countries. The
poorest widow will sell her last gown to convert
it into goods, with which she opens a tiny shop,
KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 63
and richer brethren giving a helping hand, you
will find her perhaps in six months moved into
a larger shop, her shelves well filled with every
variety of article.
There are very few foreigners settled in the
state ; Spaniards naturally predominate, and,
next them, Germans, those universal emigrants,
then a few French, and still fewer English. In
the town of San Salvador, we had not a single
countryman, nor was there a single English book
to be seen anywhere. In sheer despair I took
to reading Spanish, and soon found that it was
the very best method of learning the language
rapidly.
The President is elected every three years, and
great is the commotion throughout the state for
three months before this event. When we were
in Salvador, the office was held by a man who
had been a priest, but who had abandoned his
clerical duties for some years before he was
elected president.
64 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA.
He was an agreeable man in society, with
rather too oily a manner for my taste, but was
generally popular in the country, I believe,
having been twice called to the head of the
state.
I have been told that if the Eepublic were
governed in accordance with the laws, there
would not be a happier, a freer, or a more
prosperous place in the world; but, unfortun-
ately, patriotism is a rare virtue, and justice
can be sold there to the highest bidder. The
consequence of this is endless anarchy and civil
war, if so dignified a title can be given to the
pronuncmmentos^ as the constant revolutions are
called. But the evil they do to the country is
dreadful, each rival faction drawing the poor In-
dians from their agricultural pursuits, when their
labour is most required, to fight for a cause of
which they know nothing, and for which they
care less. After a few marches and counter-
marches, a few bloodless fights, and a great deal
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 65
of ruin to commerce and crops, the aiFair is over
for the time, and one or other of the rival
Presidents gains the daj, with an immense
amount oi palaver. After residing three months
in Salvador, my husband had occasion to visit
the town of Sonsonate, a flourishing little town
situated in a lovely valley, six leagues from the
sea-port of Acajutla. I accompanied him, and
we were so much pleased with the place that we
prolonged our visit, and most fortunate was it
for us that we did so, for we had not been absent
from our home more than a month when the
news reached us of the total destruction of San
Salvador by a fearful earthquake.
On the morning of the 16th April the inhabi-
tants were alarmed by a severe shock which
fortunately came as a warning to many who left
their rooms for the open courts and squares, and
at half past ten a far severer shock followed, only
lasting ten seconds, but so tremendous was the
convulsion that scarcely a building was left
6Q RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
standing. The houses being all built of adobes
(baked earth), the whole air was impregnated
with a suffocating dust, and to add to the horrors
of the scene many young children were
killed by this alone. The fine cathedral whose
massive walls, three feet thick, had stood so many
eartli quakes, was now a ruin, and most of the
churches and the handsome new college met with
a similar fate.
Were I to relate all the tales of horror and
misery which I heard, I should fill pages. Hus-
bands seeking their wives, mothers their children,
many rushing about the streets confessing their
sins aloud, whilst priests raised the cross on high
saying the day of judgment was come, and several
people died in the streets who had been sick or
dying when the earthquake took place. When
day dawned on this scene of ruin and desolation
no means were left untried to save the figure of
the Patron Saint of San Salvador, which was
unfortunately buried beneath the ruins of the
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 67
cathedral. In these eflforts the Bishop joined
and they had the satisfaction of digging out
the figure at hist, ahnost uninjured, and it
was immediately carried off to Cojutepeque
attended by the Bishop and a long procession of
priests.
The loss of property was immense, many being
rendered penniless who were rich the day before.
Every one fled, except robbers and those who
valued their property more than their lives, and
hoped to save the wreck of their fortunes by
digging beneath the ruins; but even these few
were soon obliged to leave the scene of desolation,
as a pestilence broke out caused by the number
of dead bodies left unburied. The shocks of
earthquake continued without intermission for
many days, but gradually subsided, when the
frightened natives returned to rebuild their city,
for so great is the infatuation of the people of San
Salvador, that all attempts to induce them to
B- 2
68 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
move the capital to some more favoured spot are
vain. Their argument on this occasion was that
as San Salvador had been so utterly destroyed,
it was not probable such another earthquake
would occur for a century, that being about the
time that had elapsed since the last destruction
of it.
This was a melancholy year for Central
America, for after the earthquake came a famine,
the corn crops being destroyed by locusts that
came in millions, devouring every green leaf,
every blade of corn, causing a fearful amount of
misery to the poor people. In the neighbour-
hood of San Salvador a revolution was nearly
breaking out because the inhabitants of Cojute-
peque refused to deliver up the figure of the
Patron Saint which had been placed there for
safety in the hour of adversity. The images
that these poor Indians love so devoutly, are
•the most hideous cadaverous looking figures
imaginable, and when, on the festival of Corpus
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 69
Christi, they are carried in procession through the
streets, the effect produced on the mind is almost
painful.
The kitchens in Central America are very pri-
mitive, being nothing more than a portion of the
corridor, a low brick wall about a yard wide, run-
ning the whole length of it, and forming the kitchen
range : circles of round rough stones are placed
at intervals along this wall, and within these
circles the wood fires are kindled, from which
proceed such excellent dinners of fish, flesh, and
fowl, to say nothing of marvellous sweet dishes,
in which the native cooks stand unrivalled.
A small hole in the roof lets out the smoke,
which is very trifling, from a wood fire, and the
kitchen being unenclosed all round, there is little
need even for that.
The tortillias and chocolate for family con-
sumption are generally made at home, though
they can be procured in the market, if preferred.
A servant, called a moliendera^ is the one upon
70 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTKAL AMEEICA.
whom these duties devolve. She is also the
water carrier, and is generally an Indian by
birth, retaining her native costume, the dark
blue cotton shirt of scanty dimensions, and
white linen rehosa^ or scarf.
The upper servants are invariably taken from
the ladino class, and are on the whole, honest,
kind-hearted, and capable of strong attachment
to their masters. The women are excellent
cooks and nurses, and the men good grooms,
thoroughly understanding the management of
horses, and their treatment when sick.
They will not, however, do one half the work
that an European will — a family of two persons re-
quiring at least four servants to ensure anything
like comfort.
The women servants always dress in the
tasteful nagua costume — a loose white chemisette,
cut low in the neck and sleeves, with the full
furbelowed skirt of coloured cotton or muslin.
Spangles do not seem to be worn in Salvador,
-KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 71
though SO frequently seen in the state of
Nicaragua.
They wear no shoes, but their small brown
feet are so pretty that the eye soon gets accus-
tomed to the omission. If, by any chance, a
servant is seen in shoes, she is sure to be utterly
idle and worthless. She gives herself fine-lady
airs, and thinks that a person wearing shoes has
no necessity to work.
When I was told this I laughed and did not
believe it, but I found afterwards from experi-
ence that it was nothing but the simple truth.
It is impossible for any description to do
justice to the size and beauty of the trees
throughout the state of Salvador. The tree
cotton is one of the most beautiful, growing to
an enormous size, and its feathery yellow
blossom is very graceful.
The soft, downy fibre of this pod is often
used for mattresses, and it makes as soft a bed
as feathers.
72 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
The flowering trees are also wonderfully
beautiful, particularly one, which I used to call
the golden tree, never being able to remember its
real name. It grows to the size of the oak, and
its branches become loaded with the brightest
yellow, bell-shaped blossoms, before a single
green leaf appears.
When these fade, the foliage bursts out, and
lasts until the following spring, when it again
gives place to the glowing flowers.
This tree can be seen an immense distance ofi",
and forms a striking and beautiful object amongst
the dark green foliage of the orange and mango
trees. The tree of the Jlor de pascua is almost
equally lovely ; it blooms at Christmas and
Easter, hence its name.
The flowers are of two sorts, deep crimson and
white, streaked here and there with pink. They
are also very fragrant, which adds another charm
to their beauty; they are much used for the
religious fiestas.
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 73
The forests are full of magnificent cedar and
balsam trees, and tlie lovely creeper, vanilla,
grows in wild profusion everywhere. The
former wood is so plentiful that all the com-
monest furniture is made of it, being far cheaper
than plain deal in England.
The balsam trade is entirely in the hands of
the Indians, and they are exceedingly jealous of
any interlopers, and will only deal with a few
favoured merchants.
Deep incisions are made in the trunk of the
tree, and yards of cotton cloth wound round it,
while the tree is " sweating," as the expression
is. The balsam is then extracted from the
cloths, when the latter are thoroughly saturated,
bottled in stone jars, and brought into the towns
for sale. I believe it is a very costly article.
There is also a gum tree, which undergoes the
same process, that is, incisions are made in the
bark, from which exudes a medical gum, resem-
bling gum Arabic in appearance, but with
74 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
rather a disagreeable taste. It is considered
very beneficial for coughs.
The country abounds with medicinal plants,
almost growing wild— castor oil, senna, rhubarb,
Peruvian bark, and many others. There is one
kind of creeper famous for the cure of snake
bites. The bark of it is soaked in any kind of
spirit, and a small quantity of that is said to be
an infallible cure, if taken immediately after
the wound is inflicted. Fidgetty people, just
arriving in this country, generally keep a bottle
of it in readiness, but if the country is infested
with snakes, as some people try to make out,
they keep wonderfully out of sight. I never
came across one the whole time I was in Salvador,
and never heard of anyone dying from the bite
of one.
Insects are numerous, and some very venom-
ous ; but I found a good use of the broom could
always keep them under. Beds should always,
in the tropics, stand in the middle of the room,
EECOLLECTIOKS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 75
and boxes be moved from their position every
day.
When we first moved into our house in Son-
sonate, another town of Salvador, we found it
much infested with centipedes, scorpions, and
venomous spiders, but attributed it solely to
want of care in our predecessors, and before a
month was passed were quite free of the nuisance,
but not before I had received a bite in one of
my fingers from some unknown enemy, who had
attacked me when I was asleep.
I sufiered dreadfully with it, my whole hand
being swollen, and the pain extending up to the
shoulder, accompanied by a great deal of fever ;
yet the bite was not bigger than a pin's point.
1 attributed it to a very beautiful little
crimson spider, called mate frayle, known to be
one of the most venomous species, there being
a perfect colony of them in the outside corridor.
They derive their name from a legend told of
one of their ancestors, who wove his bed in a
76 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
monastery, and killed, by his bite, one of the
holiest of the friars. They are held, in con-
sequence, in especial fear, and hated by the
natives.
I was also roused from my sleep one night by
a rustling in the room, and saw, to my horror,
a huge spider emerging from beneath my ward-
robe, his clawed feet making as much noise on
the matted floor as a crab's; but fortunately
these tarantalas are rarely seen in town houses,
and a strict regard to cleanliness invariably
routs every species of insect.
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 77
CHAPTER V.
The country between San Salvador and Sonso-
nate is very beautiful; a wild deep gully, called
the Guarramal, is particularly striking, its steep
sides being fringed with the tree fern, a most
rare and lovely tree. The road down to this
gully is even awfully grand — a fearful precipice
of nearly a thousand feet being on one side of the
narrow pathway, while a perpendicular wall rises
on the other. It seems as if some terrific earth-
quake had rent asunder the mountain, for piles
of huge stones form the bottom of the gully.
7& RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
amongst which a stream forces its noisy way, in
some parts quite deep, in others barely wetting
the horses' feet. On this mountain stands a tree
of the most extraordinary size and beauty. I
believe it is called a cedro^ and is indigenous to
the country. It seemed to me that I was several
minutes walking round the mighty trunk ; but
as I unfortunately cannot give its dimensions
I will only speak of the impression left on my
mind being that I occupied that time. Human
beings walking or sitting in the cool green shade
of its widely-extended branches, look like ants,
and the senses become oppressed with the
grandeur of this giant tree, which must be seen
to be believed in. Never can I forget the im-
pression the fii'st sight of it made on my mind.
I felt breathless with surprise and awe.
Sonsonate, meaning in the Indian language
" the city of a thousand streams," is a prettily-
situated town, but excessively hot, from being
completely walled in by high mountains on every
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 79
side, except that towards the sea. There is a
good carriage road, of six leagues, down to
Acajutla, which, in commercial importance,
ranks next to La Union. The valley is most
fertile, being a mass of orange, mango, and
cocoa-nut trees, the latter exceedingly beautiful,
towering above the others with their fan-like
tops.
The society is the pleasantest in all the state,
from the number of foreigners settled there, and
its vicinity to the seaport gives a life and
animation to the place, which is not to be met
with in more inland toAvns. The port road is
the fashionable promenade of an evening, and on
moonlight nights especially, it is crowded with
seiloritas taking their stately lounge, and gentle-
men showing off their excellent horsemanship
before them.
The Central Americans, generally, are splendid
riders, seeming literally part of the animal on
which they are mounted. The races are held on
80 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
St. John's day, the 24th of June, and also on
St. Peter's, on the port road, and the intense
passion for horsemanship which reigns in every
heart is then apparent. As nearly every man,
be he rich or poor, possesses a horse, the crowd
of equestrians is something wonderful, and it is
dangerous on certain occasions for any woman to
walk in the narrow streets, owing to the troops of
horsemen riding, where the width will admit of it,
twelve abreast, and dashing round the corners at
a mad rate, utterly regardless of whom they may
knock down.
A favourite amusement is riding abreast, arm-
in-arm, at the most furious speed, then suddenly
halting their horses. The favourite feat of all,
however, is that of carrying off the head of a live
duck slung upon a pole. The poor creature's
neck is well greased, and each horseman in turn
tries to wrench off its head, as he passes at full
gallop. Another exploit, requiring really good
horsemanship, is the picking up from the ground
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 81
some small article, while the horse is put to his
utmost speed.
I have often stood for hours at a window
watching all this fearless horsemaaship with
delight, and wondering how men who can ride
so well can fight so badly. The races and the
religious festivals are about the only amusements
the lower classes have. The latter are kept up
with great solemnity, particularly in Passion-
week, when there are processions nearly every
day ; but that on Good Friday is really worth
seeing, if only for the adornment of the streets.
Every person is expected to " make a carpet,"
as it is called, in front of his house, wherever
the procession passes. Brilliant flowers, laid out
in squares and patterns, are much used; but
coloured shavings, rice, and even cofiee-grounds
are brought into request. The effect of a long
street, all laid over with these gay " carpets," is
exceedingly pretty and curious. Crosses formed
of the white datura are also frequent, filling the
82 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
air witli their exquisite perfume. The most im-
pressive sight, however, is the midnight proces-
sion, w^hen hundreds of men and women, each
with a lighted wax candle, proceed in two lines
down all the principal streets. Not a word is
uttered, and the solemn procession winds along,
like a huge fiery snake, till lost in the distance.
The ladies have one procession all to themselves,
no man being allowed to join them. The consump-
tion of wax must be something enormous during
this time, for the poorest save a trifle to buy their
tapers'.' ■ The depth of religious feeling amongst
the poorer orders seems very great, if the outward
seriousness of their devotion be any criterion.
The whole of Passion-week the streets are crowded
with processions of men and women, praying
aloud, and openly bewailing their sins, one old
woman, with a a particularly high, cracked
voice, generally commencing the recitative, while
the others follow her lead; but I must say
amongst these devotees the women predominate.-
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 83
When the cholera broke out in 1857, the same
marks of devotion were shown, men and women,
and even little children, carrying huge wooden
crosses through the streets, and praying aloud.
The power the priests possess over the minds
of the Indians is wonderful. In the most remote
districts their word is law, and a pass from a
priest ensures a stranger a welcome wherever he
may go. There can be no doubt that the
Roman Catholic missionaries have had far
greater success in Christianizing the Indians in
Central and South America, than our Protestant
missionaries have had in most parts of the
world. Perhaps more care was taken originally
in sending out really clever and eloquent men,
perhaps the ceremonies and practices of the
Roman Catholic Church are more suited to the
savage than those of our more simple worship.
In the large Indian population of central
America there are few tribes that are not
apparently sincere and devout Eoman Catholics.
G 2
84 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
The inhabitants of Salvador are a far superior
race to their neighbours in Mexico, travellers
being able to traverse the whole of the state with
little fear of robbery or violence of any kind.
The Indians of the pura raga are exceedingly
honest, and have a great respect, and even
liking for any foreigners, except a Spaniard, —
there the old animosity still prevails. The
Indians were the only class really benefited by
the Declaration of Independence of Spain, their
condition before that event being then but little
better than that of slaves ; in fact, the principal
landowners amongst the Spaniards did possess
many slaves, but now any Indian may buy his
patch of ground sufficient to raise his Indian
corn and plantains, with which he is content.
Many of the most fertile lands in the country
belong to the Indian communities, not a foot of
-which can be sold without the consent of their
head man.
Two leagues from Sonsonate, is the large
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 85
Indian town of Isalco, said to contain a popula-
tion of sixty thousand. It is charmingly situated
on the brow of a hill, and is considered exceedingly
healthy and much cooler than Sonsonate. We
resided there for three months for the recovery of
my health, during which time I had an opportunity
of seeing much of the Indian character, which
raised it infinitely higher in my estimation than
that of the Ladinos, for with all their ignorance
and superstition, they are moral, honest, and
industrious, which cannot be said of the mixed
race.
Our house was situated in a green plaza^
shaded by two magnificent trees, while the
smoking volcano of Isalco, seemed nearly to
overshadow the town, being within six miles of
of it. The plaza contained the ruins of the
fii'st cliurch that the Spaniards built in the
State of Salvador, and the bells are very beauti-
ful, being a royal gift from King Philip himself.
This fact is engraved on the largest of the bells,
,86 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
"wtich are hung in a small belfry of modern con-
struction apart from tlie church. The latter was
ruined a great many years ago by one of the
numerous earthquakes, and nothing but the bare
"brick walls remain, with here and there a window
filled with tangled creepers and ferns.
The great Fair of Isalco occurred during
our stay there. It is held in the ]plaza^ and
crowds come from every part of the State to
buy and sell, and amuse themselves, but it is
principally an \n^mn fiesta^ the whites being but
a sprinkling amongst the many thousands assem-
bled. The great event of the day is a kind of
descriptive or dramatic dance, which is curious
on account of its having been annually performed
by the Indians ever since the Spanish conquest.
On the occasion on which I saw it the dancers
or actors consisted of a party of twelve Indians,
six of whom, intended to represent the Spanish
Conquerors, were dressed in long blue tail coats,
with red collars and cuffs, and enormous cocked
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 87
hats, and as their feet were shoeless and stock-
ingless, the effect was droll enough.
The other six were dressed in fanciful costumes,
with gaudy feathers in their heads and in their
hands, the latter being the only weapons with
which they were provided to resist the formidable
swords carried by their opponents. They com-
menced a slow, measured dance, after which the
leader of the Spanish host stepped forward and
informed the Indians that he intended to take
possession of their country in the name of Charles
y. Then the Indian king replied, or ought to
have done so, but, being on that occasion in-
toxicated, his Majesty's answer was perfectly
unintelligible. He was a gigantic man, and the
painful efforts he made to keep himself from fall-
ing in the war dance did not add to the dignity
of his appearance.
The manner in which the Indians recite this
play is irresistibly ludicrous, being a species of
sing-song intoning, delivered with a solemnity of
88 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
face wliicli makes their ridiculous costumes still
more absurd.
The Indians, at last, after much palaver, ac-
knowledged themselves conquered, and the aifair
ended in an amicable dance, in which the poor
king, after losing his crown, nearly lost his
balance.
Our life in Sonsonate was varied by an occa-
sional trip to Acajutta, but as all seaside places
are unhealthy in the tropics, oui.* stay was never
prolonged beyond two or three days. It is a
poor little place, of a few scattered houses, but
the sea is magnificent, being an open roadstead.
A foreigner at Sonsonate has erected a good mole,
a gi'eat boon to all engaged in commerce, as before
that their goods were frequently damaged coming
ashore in the surf boats. A steamer belonging
to the Panama Railway Company calls once a
month at all the principal ports of Guatemala,
Salvador, Costa Eica, and Nicaragua, and the
commerce of Central America has increased
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 89
wonderfully since she commenced her trijis. It
is also a great convenience to passengers for
Europe, as a week's voyage in a most comfort-
able steamer takes them to Panama, instead of
their having to undergo the fatigue of a long
land journey to Belize over the most fearful
roads. Acajutta is famous for its beautiful shells,
out of which the most lovely flowers are made.
There is one part of the coast called the " beach
of flowers," and literally the ground seems strewn
with the petals of roses ; they are, however, of all
colours, and so exquisitely fine and transparently
thin that it is wonderful how any escape the
violence of the waves. The making of shell
flowers is one of the accomplishments of the
ladies of Sonsonate, and great taste is displayed
in the arrangement of the bouquets. The roses
are especially natural, the tints of red and yellow
being precisely those of the real flower.
An occasional man-of-war, either French or
English (generally the former), sometimes finds
90 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
her way as far as Acajutta, when great is the
excitement and pleasure amongst the senoritas,
as their arrival is generally followed by a little
gaiety. These visits are, however, few and far
between. Captains seldom caring to leave the
delights of Valparaiso for the uncivilized parts
of Central America.
We once spent a delightful ten days in the
country house of a lady of our acquaintance, and
as it was rather different from country life in
England, I will describe it. In the first place
the house was not quite finished, being without
a roof, but as it was the dry season this was con-
sidered of little consequence, though the effect was
certainly peculiar — looking up into the star-lit
sky — to one not accustomed to sleep in the open
air. The ladies of the party all slept in one large
room, while the gentlemen slung their ham-
mocks in the outer corridors. At dawn of day
we were all awake, and sallied forth to the beau-
tiful rapid river which runs through the estate,
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 91
and there enjoyed the luxury of a bath, and
what a luxury it is in that burning climate !
One feels as if one could live for ever in the
clear, cold water, though hunger at last drives
one home to breakfast — if such a term can be
applied to the luxurious dejeuner a la fourchette
which was always awaiting us.
After resting an hour or two in the heat of
the day, the gentlemen generally took their guns
and dived into the neighbourhood in search of
game, whilst the ladies lounged, eat fruit, and
chatted until it was time for bath the second,
after which we returned home to meet the
gentlemen whose vehement popping off of guns
heralded their approach, and who generally
had that crest-fallen appearance which belongs
to unsuccessful sportsmen, for though the pheas-
ants are so near that their cry is distinctly
heard, it is almost impossible to get at them from
the great growth of underwood. After dinner,
92 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
games, singing, and delightful rambles in the
moonlight ended the pleasant day.
There is an ease, gaiety, and simplicity
about these country visits in Central America
peculiarly refreshing; there is no fine dressing
amongst the ladies, nor formality of any kind;
for a time all seem to become as gay and light-
hearted as children in the full enjoyment of a
holiday, and perhaps the genial climate tends
much to this happy frame of mind.
This assemblage of friends was in honour of
a rice machine^ which had just arrived from
England ; an English mechanic had been
employed in making a water-wheel by which it
was turned, and the neatness and expedition
with which it was completed surprised the slow
native carpenters not a little. Machinery is
beginning to be introduced into Salvador, and
would be more so if there were more clever
mechanics settled in the country ; but people
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 93
are afraid of spending much in machines when
there is no one capable of repairing them when
out of order. I am sure if it were more known
many English mechanics would flock to Salvador,
where their services are so well paid, and living
is so reasonable. The mechanic I have just
mentioned, and his brother, had not been
settled in Sonsonate many months before their
hands were full of work, and broadcloth, gold
chains, and prancing steeds soon showed how
well they were remunerated. Any clever, hard-
working mechanic, may rapidly make money in
Salvador, if he only avoids drinking ; but if he
indulges in that fatal vice, fever holds him as
her prey, and all his earnings go to pay doctor's
bills, which, throughout Central America, are
exorbitant.
The climate of Salvador is an exceedingly
healthy one for the tropics, the fevers even
amongst Europeans being seldom fatal, and a
man who is temperate in his habits has, perhaps,
94 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
as fair a chance of living to a good old age as he
has in Europe.
During an eight years' residence, we were
only once visited by cholera, and other epidemics
are exceedingly rare. There is a great varia-
tion of climate in Salvador on account of the
height of its mountain ranges, and this conduces
greatly to its health — for the fever-stricken
invalid may, in half a day's journey, be trans-
ported to a climate like the South of France, in
fact cooler, as oranges even will not thrive in the
open air, and ice is to be seen on the roads in
December.
KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEKICA. 95
CHAPTER yi.
My healtli occasionally obliged me to leave
Sonsonate, and I once spent a delightful month
in a mountain Hacienda. It was almost on a
level -with the neighbouring volcano of Isalco,
and the air was the purest and most exhilarating
I ever breathed. We were literally in the clouds,
or rather above them, though still higher peaks
rose on every side of us. This is the region
of wheat and other European products, the best
vegetables being grown on this mountain
summit. Even the Indians here have a riQh.
96 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
colour on their swarthy cheeks, while the few
whites look like Europeans, so fresh and blojm-
ing in their appearance. Our host and his
aimable wife were exceedingly kind, and wel-
comed us with that ease and courtesy belonging
to all of Spanish race ; their best rooms were
given up to us, and everything done to make us
thoroughly at home.
Part of the large estate lay through a lovely
green prairie, dotted here and there with high
trees, and a morning gallop across this plain was
the most exhilarating thing I ever felt. Horses
seem to feel the same pleasure as their riders in
these lovely grassy plains, requiring no spur to
urge them on, while they snuff up the fresh air
and shake their manes with delight. The cows
also must lead a happy life in these evergreen
pastures, and I have never tasted such milk and
butter as they produce ; the impunity with
which the lady of the domain went amongst her
horned favourites was surprising to me, and one
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 97
day we were actually prevented crossing over a
stile by a crowd of these creatures hemming us
in, some intrusive cows putting their muzzles
into her hand in search of the salt with which
she often regaled them.
A great eruption of the volcano of Isalco
occurred while we were staying at this Hacienda^
and as we were distinctly on a line with it, we
had the full benefit of the ashes.
We were awakened in the night by the strong
and suffocating smell of sulphur, and on opening
the outer door found a thick shower of ashes
falling continuously, and silently. It looked
precisely like a snow storm turned black. As
day dawned a really awful sight presented itself,
the whole country being black with ashes, not a
green leaf to be seen, and the sky enveloped
in a dull lurid fog through which the sun
in vain tried to pierce. Our throats were much
affected by the sulphur; and we began seriously
to consider whether the country was about to
98 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
become a second Pompeii, but fear was almost
swallowed up in the interest of the wonderful
scene before us.
For three days the eruption lasted, not a
drop of rain falling, though it was the rainy
season, and large forest trees were broken by the
enormous weight of ashes falling on them, their
branches strewing the roads for miles. One
forest especially looked as if blackened and half
consumed by fire, and every blade of grass was
withered and scorched up. The flourishing
crops were utterly ruined, the cattle all deserted
the desolate region that had so lately yielded
them such sweet pasturage, and had to traverse
eighteen miles before they emerged from the
ashes. It was discovered afterwards that an
enormous new crater had opened in the side of
the volcano. Sonsonate and all the lowlands had
escaped the ashes, but the lava flowed within a
mile of the townoflsalco to the great trepidation
of the inhabitants.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 99
A mountain in front of the volcano un-
fortunately shut out our view of the eruption,
which our friends in Sonsonate told us was the
most magnificent that had ever been remem-
bered there.
Central America is indeed a wonderful
country for volcanoes. The state of Salvador
alone has no less than half a dozen, some active,
some apparently extinct, and strange to say the
Spaniards have invariably chosen as a site for
their towns the immediate vicinity of a volcano,
perhaps on account of the great fertility of the
adjacent country. Nicaragua and Guatemala
are equally intersected with volcanoes, and sub-
ject in consequence to fearful earthquakes, so
that I do not wonder that some writer has
imagined the whole of Central America to be
nothing but a thin crust of earth over subter-
ranean fires.
A few leagues from Sonsonate a curious sight
H 2
100 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
is to be seen ; pools of boiling water hissing up
from the ]iaked rock, and steam issuing from
every crack, the place being aptly called by the
natives the Infernillos. Large craters
mysteriously converted into lakes are another
source of interest to the traveller, and always
abound with wild fowl, much sought after
by sportsmen. These waters are generally tepid,
and delicious for bathing purposes, and it is im-
possible to describe the beauty of these inland
lakes, surrounded by the wooded hills crowned
with blue volcanic peaks.
It was a subject of endless astonishment to me
to find how few travellers cared to bend their
steps towards these lovely regions abounding
with everything grand and beautiful in nature;
but I trust the monthly steamers from Panama
now established, may induce many lovers of the
glorious works of God to visit the interior of
Central America, so little known and so needlessly
feared on account of its supposed bad climate.
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 101
What most strikes one on arriving from
Europe is the absence of all extreme poverty;
there are a few beggars certainly who come
regularly every Saturday for their weekly dole,
but they are as nothing in proportion to the
population. There are no almshouses, and very
few charitable institutions, yet the eye is not
offended, as it is in the south of Europe, by
swarms of loathsome objects, afflicted with every
disease under the sun, nor do you see the gaunt
forms and starving faces that meet you too often
in every large town in England. The few
beggars seem a happy contented set; gaining
sufficient on the Saturday to last them for
the week, during which they hide themselves
away, who knows where? but at all events
there is no such thing as begging in the
streets.
The system of charity is very simple; the
poorest giving their mite to the Saturday beggars,
some giving money, others tortillias, cocoa beans,
102 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
handfuls of rice, cigars, and reels of cotton. All
sorts of sundries are to be found in the beggar's
basket, and these articles they exchange for food
or money as they please ; the quartillio givers of
course, have the largest amount of blessings
showered upon them. The parish priests are
also indefatigable in their visits to the poor
and the sick, which is no doubt one of the
sources of their great influence throughout the
country; whatever faults they may have, want
of charity is not one of them ; at all hours and
in all weathers they are ready to mount their
mules and visit and comfort the sick and the
afflicted.
In the country districts the parish priest has
his table nearly supplied by his grateful parish-
ioners, who bring baskets of eggs, fowls, and
other produce of their little farms, quite as a
matter of course, and lucky for the priests that
it is so, for their pay is often so miserable as to
be barely sufficient to keep body and soul
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 103
together, yet an amount of work is expected from
them that would stagger some of our luxurious
• clergy in Europe.
Some of the customs of the Indians are very
peculiar; the girls are generally affianced when
quite children to boys but little older than them-
selves, when they leave the home of their own
parents, and go to live with their future father-
in-law, where they are considered and treated as
daughters from that time ; at the age of fourteen
they are regarded as old enough to marry, but
still continue to live with their husbands' family,
and the husband is seldom more than eighteen
when he takes upon himself the care of a family^
yet these early marriages are said in most cases
to turn out very happily, the Indian wives being
noted for their morality and good conduct, a
thing which cannot be said of the Ladinos.
The Indian bridegroom makes his wife's
trousseau himself, the women, strange to say,
being entirely ignorant of needlework, but cer-
104 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
tainly the devoted swain has not much to do for his
lady love, the only garment being a long straight
piece of cotton cloth without a seam, which is
fastened round the waist by a crimson sash, while
a snow wliite rehosa of very fine material is
folded over the breast. The man's costume is
very pretty, consisting generally of a white
jacket, most tastefully embroidered down the
back in coloured wool or cotton, with very loose
white trousers, reaching only to the knee, and a
straw hat nearly as wide as an umbrella. Most
of them have fine, muscular figures, with honest,
good tempered faces of decidedly Eastern type.
The woman are generally inferior in personal
appearance, but have the sweetest voices in the
world. The men have a great deal of the impertur-
bability of the North American Indian, but are
a gentler and less warlike race, caring for no-
thing but the cultivation of their lands and their
evening lounge in the hammock. They are a
most provoking people if you are in a hurry, as
KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 105
nothing will induce them to move out of their
slow, measured stride, and they look upon any
ebullition of impatience on your part with the
smiling pity that we give to an angry child.
The first start on a journey is very trying
to a new comer; the loading of the mules and
of the men's backs takes always treble the time
necessary, and it is in vain you point to the
rising sun and say you wish to escape his rays;
the Indian will quietly adjust and re-adjust his
load entirely to his satisfaction before he will
move, and many a precious hour of coolness is
lost by his dreadful inertness, though once fairly
started, he will trudge on for leagues with un-
tiring energy.
The way in which young children travel in
this country over the roughest roads is very in-
genious. A sheet is knotted round the neck of
the horseman, in order to form a hammock, a
small pillow is placed inside, and the babe lies
as comfortably as if in its own cradle, the jolting
106 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
of the horse's movement being nearly unfelt,
while the rider's hands are left free for the
management of the reins. My little girl of nine
months old travelled in this way over some of
the worst roads in the country, lulled to sleep by
the open air and the gentle swaying to and fro
of the extemporised hammock.
Santa Tecla, or New San Salvador, as it is
called, is about six leagues from the old capital,
which, as I mentioned, was destroyed by earth-
quake. We heard so much of the salubrity of
the climate that we were tempted to live there
for a few months. It was a hot day in February
when we set oiF, accompanied by about twenty
Indians, carrying all our belongings, for fur-
nished lodgings are an unknown luxury.
We had to sleep one night on the road at a
very miserable place called Guarmoco, the most
dreary looking town in all Salvador — a collection
of mean, dirty houses, and one ugly white-
washed church, built upon a dusty plain, unre-
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 107
lieved by a single tree or blade of grass. Such
is Guarmoco. No wonder that the people and
even the animals are sickly in such a depressing
place. ^len, women, and children are all sub-
ject to goitre^ a common complaint throughout
the country, but this is the only place where
cows, horses, pigs, and poultry, are equally
affected.
This disgusting disease cannot arise from either
the water or climate of Salvador, as a clever
French physician who had lived in the country
thirty years, told me he had never known a single
Englishman afflicted with gtntre during the whole
of that time. It does not seem to cause idiotcy
as in the Swiss cantons.
We found Santa Tecla quite worthy of its good
repute, for the climate was perfectly exquisite.
The town is situated on a green plain on the
summit of a hill, while lovely wooded mountains
rise on nearly every side of it. It is, however,
singularly destitute of trees in its immediate
108 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMERICA.
vicinity — a great contrast in this to Sonsonate,
which is perfectly embosomed in masses of fruit
trees. There is also a great dearth of water,
there being no river near the town, and the
wells few and far between. In a tropical climate
this is a great drawback to the prosperity of any
place, and many of the principal families of San
Salvador prefer to remain there at the risk of
being overwhelmed by another earthquake, to
living in a place where they cannot have their
daily plunge in the river.
There are many fine houses in Santa Tecla,
besides a good college, whose head master is an
exceedingly well informed Spanish priest, who is
perfectly adored by his boys. The Bishop of
Salvador also resided there at the time of our
visit, and his Cathedral was in course of building.
The architect was a German, who by his hard
working industry was rapidly making a fortune,
and the cathedral promised to be a fine edifice.
Very great is the disgust of the inhabitants of
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 109
the old capital to find that their beloved Bishop
is fairly a fixture at the hated Santa Tecla, for
the animosity between the two towns is quite
extraordinary, near relations even quarrelling
fiercely on the subject.
A small omnibus— the only one in the State —
runs daily between the rival towns, and the
Spanish driver we found worth knowing, being
quite a character, full of quaint sayings, and
remarkably intelligent and amusing in conversa-
tion; so the seat on the box beside Pedro was
always sought after by the gentlemen. He
also a capital whip, and drove tandem, at a
spanking speeed over roads that would somewhat
horrify an English coachman, though no acci-
dent ever occurred.
We made several trips to San Salvador, and I
was surprised to find how rapidly the town had
risen from its ruins, though at every turning
signs met the eye of the terrible convulsion it
had suffered. Walls a yard thick rent in two,
110 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
columns lying prostrate, roofs fallen in, all
strangely mingled with fine new bouses freslily
painted and splendidly furnished; rich soft
carpets, damask curtains and velvet furniture
having superseded the Indian mats and cane
sofas of former years, though, for my part,
I prefer the latter with the thermometer at
ninety.
We paid a visit, of course to the President
Senor Barino and his charming wife, and were
much pleased with both. He was a very fine
looking man, in the prime of life, with a clever,
keen face, and most agreeable and gentlemanlike
manners. His wife went by the name of the
" Imperatrice," on account of the graceful dignity
of her demeanour.
I must not pass over in my description of
religious festivals, that on Christmas Day.
In most houses one corner of the principal
sala is devoted to the erection of a species of
altar, where an image of the Child Saviour is to
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. Ill
be seen, generally lying in a cradle, with Mary
and Joseph watching over Him. A canopy of
either silk or coloured paper, spangled with
golden or silver stars and drops, hangs over the
group, and around them every imaginable orna-
ment is disposed. The ground is always strewn
with petals of flowers, coloured shavings, rice,
branches of trees, shells, vases, &c., and in the
more elaborate ones a rail is placed round the
sacred spot, all intertwined with gorgeous
blossoms.
I saw one nasciemiento — as these altars are
called — which had cost the lady who had erected
it a large sum of money. The figures were as
large as life, and beautifully executed, and
besides the Holy Family and the cradle — which
was a perfect work of art — there were the cattle
of the manger also life size, and admii'ably
natural. From the other side of the room, they
looked as if alive.
112 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
Crowds visit these nasceimientos, which at
night are illuminated by large wax candles, and
it is one of the customs on Christmas Eve to
visit as many as possible before the midnight
mass. The poorest persons may cross the threshold
of any house where one of these altars is erected,
and offer up his sincere homage, the door being
generally kept open until twelve o'clock.
The great fiesta of the year, however, in Son-
sonate, is that of Candelavia in the month of
February.
A fair is held in the market-place, and crowds
come to buy and sell, from every town in Salva-
dor, and many from the neighbouring states.
After several days devoted to business, the
plaza is cleared of its booth, and stands erected
for the bull-fights.
These latter are always very harmless affairs,
the so-called bull being oftener a poor young
heifer, or patient ox.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 113
There are the usual number of picadors, dressed
ill fantastic costumes, but no matador, as no
killing is allowed ; the former try to enrage the
good-tempered animal by dancing before him
with red flags, darting fiery squibs into him, and
resorting to the usual petty tortures, common in
all bull-fights. They occasionally succeed in
making him butt his head slightly, and pursue
his tormentor for a few paces, and this act causes
a great excitement amongst the assembled
thousands, while the mounted picador flies from
the threatened danger as fast as his horse can
carry him.
The most amusing thing at these fiestas is to
see the antics of the saddled ox.
A very good rider keeps on his back, and
makes him career round the plaza to his great
disgust.
He kicks, plunges, butts furiously, but all in
vain ; he cannot dismount the agile rider, who
114 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMEEICA.
sticks on in the most wonderful manner, amid
roars of laughter from the crowd.
A small theatre was opened for the first time
during this fiesta, and though the actors were
all amateurs, some of them were really very
good.
The Spanish play of the " Barber of Seville "
was acted admirably, and my astonishment was
great when I was told that the heroine of the
piece was only a market girl, who did not even
know how to read, but had been taught her part
by word of mouth.
I saw her afterwards in the tragedy of
" Marie Stuart," and she looked every inch a
queen, with her beautiful dignified face and
graceful walk. She had a singularly white skin
for a ladino, and wore her black velvet train,
and Marie Stuart cap, as if she had been accus-
tomed to them all her life.
The tragedy, however, was not so well acted
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 115
as the comedy had been, there being the usual
amount of bathos, and the costumes of the High-
landers were something wonderful.
The audience had also to wait a most unrea-
sonable time between the acts, and as the theatre
was not very brilliantly lighted with oil lamps,
and the heat excessive, a great inclination to
sleep was produced.
A friend who accompanied us, regularly settled
herself off into a comfortable doze, directly the
curtain descended, conjuring us by no means to
wake her until it rose again.
A mischievous young Spaniard, of our acquaint-
ance, knowing this custom of hers, hid himself
in the back of one of the boxes, and commenced
crowing loudly, being immediately answered from
the pit by a friend who enacted the part of hen,
upon which she woke with a start, imagining it
was morning.
The piece was not over until nearly three
o'clock, when we aU wended our way homewards
I 2
116 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
througli the moonlit streets, very tired, and
voting a theatre in the tropics a mistake.
Wandering troups of equestrians from Mexico
frequently find their way to Salvador, and as the
love of horsemanship is inherent in every man,
woman, and child, throughout the State, they
always find plenty of supporters.
There is not much gaiety amongst the higher
orders in Salvador, dinners and balls being very
rare ; dtjeuners at eleven o'clock are their favourite
entertainments, and these seem to combine break-
fast, dinner, and supper, all in one. The table
is loaded with luxuries, both native and foreign,
and as the guests are generally all intimate one
with the other, these reunions are very pleasant
things.
. After breakfast, ladies and gentlemen resort
to the drawing-room, or lounge about the cool
corridors, and patio* as they please ; the sweet
tones of the guitar are soon heard mingling with
• Court.
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 117
tlie piano, and occasionally if the weather is not
too oppressively hot, a dance is got up amongst
the younger portion of the assembly.
The day is concluded by the whole party pro-
ceeding at sunset, for an evening stroll, gener-
ally on the port road, for the sake of the fresh
breeze.
Marriages are nearly always performed at four
o'clock in the morning — a most uncomfortable
hour to our English notions.
I was witness to one of these weddings, by
torchlight, and it seemed to me more like the
gathering together of a band of conspirators than
a gay marriage party.
A ball was given in honour of the approach-
ing marriage, the night before, by a friend of the
young bride's, and dancing was kept up with
great spirit until the small hours of the morn-
ing. As four o'clock approached, there was a
slight stir, and subdued excitement to be
observed j the dancing became languid, and had
118 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA.
evidently lost its interest, and at length the
mother of the bride, signified that it was time to
be proceeding to the church.
The whole party sallied out into the moon-
lit streets, the bride and her father leading the
way, and in a few minutes we found ourselves
inside the dimly-lighted church, a couple of
flaring torches being the only lights visible, with
the exception of a pair of wax candles on the altar.
The first part of the ceremony was, as usual,
performed at the lower end of the church, the
torches casting a ghastly glare upon the pale faces
of the bride and bridegroom, while all the
rest of the church was shrouded in gloom.
After the ceremony was over, and the registry
signed by the natives of half a dozen different
countries, a select few proceeded to the bride's
house, where the breakfast was laid out, just as
the early dawn began to break, that most unbe-
coming hour to even the youngest and fairest
after a night's dancing.
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AMERICA. 119
The newly-married pair remained in her
parents' house according to the custom of the
country, a month's trip being considered quite a
superfluous waste of money and time in Central
America.
The roads throughout the State of Salvador
are too badly kept to allow of carriage exer-
cise.
One gentleman of our acquaintance possessed
an open carriage, but he had to confine his drive
entirely to the port road, it being the only one
fit for anything except an ox cart.
There used to be quite an excitement when
this solitary vehicle dashed through the little
town of Sonsonate; many of the riding horses
unaccustomed to such an object and alarmed at
the clatter of the wheels over the stones, would
rear and snort and show a strong inclination to
run away.
We had an amusing adventure in this same
carriage, one June moonlight night. 9
120 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
We had been down to the port of Acajutta
with our friends to whom it belonged, and they
asked us to return to Sonsonate which is six
leagues off, in their carriage, instead of on horse-
back. We started at seven in the evening,
thinking to reach home by nine, but before we
had been many miles, one of the horses gave
symptoms of giving in, and at last nothing would
induce him to move an inch. We were only half
way from Acajutta, not even a cart or horse to
be had anywhere, and no means of returning to
Sonsonate except on foot. I proposed camping
out for t^e night, but as there was nothing
but the dusty high road to lie on, the proposi-
tion did not meet with any favor.
After leaving the tired horse at a small road-
side hotel, we finally agreed to walk on well
as we could, the remaining three leagues. Now
nine miles in the tropics is no joke, for ladies
especially, but fortunately the night was lovely,
with a moon making everything as light as day,
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 121
and innumerable fii'e flies gleamed on each side of
the road.
We had a mounted servant with us, and he
was dispatched post haste to Sonsonate to meet
us on the road with our horses, while our friend
led the other carriage horse by the bridle, with
now and then a muttered Spanish ejaculation
from between his set teeth.
It was the height of the dry season and the
dust was ankle deep, adding greatly to our
fatigue, but we forgot everything as we ap-
proached a small cottage, from which proceeded
the most unearthly screams and moans. The
lady who was walking with me having a very
courageous as well as a very humane nature,
rushed to the door, expecting that at least murder
was being committed, while the rest of the
party stood horror struck at the dreadful
sounds.
To our surprise she presently emerged with a
smile on her face, informing us that it was only
122 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTEAL AlttEEICA.
a man suffering from tootliaclie, and that she had
advised him what to do for it.
After this we proceeded with frequent rests on
the dusty ground, until within a mile of Son-
sonate, when our five steeds hove in sight, and
glad enough we were to mount once more, arriv-
ing at home at midnight.
The Indians are excessively superstitious
having a firm belief in the evil eye, the influence
of the moon, the bad omen of a raven's flight,
and many other notions equally absurd.
An amusing story is told of an Indian guide
and an European traveller.
•The party were all ready for a start, when a
raven happened to croak in a tree overhead.
The Indian immediately threw up his engage-
ment, saying it was impossible to proceed, after
the raven had given such a warning of approach-
ing disaster.
Bribes, expostulations, and entreaties, were
equally vain, until at last the traveller got into
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 123
a furious rage, and slashed the imperturbable
guide with his horsewhip. To his surprise, the
Indian immediately mounted his mule, and ex-
pressed his willingness to commence the journey,
as the beating was the misfortune predicted by
the raven and he had now nothing further to
fear.
In some parts of the county they also still
hold to some of their old idolatries. A priest
told me that there is a piece of wood worshipped
by the Indians, who come from miles round
to assist at the ceremony, and that the people
are so tenacious of this old custom, devout
Catholics as they seem at other times, that
the priesthood are obliged to ignore the super-
stition.
124 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMEEICA.
CHAPTER VII.
During our stay at Santa Tecla, we were
amused to find that there was a great talk of
soliciting a colony of Irishmen to come and
settle in the country. Tracts of Government
land were to be given them, and every care and
protection extended to them ; but it all ended
in smoke, perhaps all the better for San Salvador,
whose peaceable inhabitants might not have
relished the sight of broken heads and black
eyes at the end of all their ^es^as.
Their religion being the same, would, no doubt,
have been an advantage, and that was the
EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 125
reason why the President thought of the most
pugnacious of her Majesty's subjects for his
scheme.
The President (himself a military man), was
making great efforts to re-model the army. His
first improvement was to put the soldiers into
uniform — blue, trimmed with red, and military
caps instead of the nondescript straw hats of
former times ; but one thing was wanted in their
costume, which made all the rest look ill to
an English eye — the privates were all shoeless,
their bare feet being merely bound with leathern
sandals — Indian fashion — and I was told that
they would not have been able to march a mile
had they been condemned to wear boots.
The officers are generally taken from the
Ladino class, v^ith a few exceptions, as no
man worth anything will degrade himself by
entering the demoralized and ill-paid army of the
the Eepublic. The utter lack of discipline must
be seen to be understood, and as long as the
126 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
Indian soldier looks down on his Ladino officer,
and feels himself the better man of the two —
what else can be expected ?
In the time of Walker's raid, with his follow-
ing of cut throats of every nation, almost the
only troops that fought well and bravely were
the Costa Ricans, who were led into battle
by a higher class of officers of purer Spanish
descent.
The Indians are not lacking in courage ; but
they require white officers to lead them, and
instruct them in the art of fighting — of which
they are profoundly ignorant. A few months
later at Panama, we met three or four French
officers on their way to Salvador, by the invita-
tion of the President ; they were to instruct the
army in all the French military tactics, and were
most curious to hear all about the country and
soldiers they were going to teach.
One of them was a colonel of infantry — a
clever gentlemanly man ; another a cavalry
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 127
captain, who clashed his spurred heels together
whenever he bowed to a senorita ; and two or
three others of inferior grade.
I pictured to myself the sensation they would
create in Salvador, more particularly amongst
the ladies, accustomed only to see their own
dark-skinned, dirty, and by no means refined
military men. I thought, perhaps, it might
lead to the army becoming the fashion, and
thus inducing young men of good family to leave
the aristocratic and lucrative counter^ for the
vulgar and ill-jpaid profession of arms. But
these dreams were never I fear, realized, my
dashing French friends being soon driven out of
the country by a revolution which deprived
Barrios of his power.
The principal commerce of the country is
with England; but the upper orders have a
marked preference for the French nation, and
this preference I especially observed during
. the war in the Crimea, when French gallantry
128 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMERICA.
was tlie universal theme, whilst the equally
brave conduct of the English army was coldly
passed over, and any short comings made the
most of. This feeling is I think to be attributed
to the fact that they know more of the French
upper classes, French men of war frequently finding
their way up to Salvador ; while the English rarely
leave the South American Coasts. Everyone
who has mixed in French society knows the
superior class of men who enter the navy, where
so many of the old noblesse of France are to be
found, so we must not wonder that the people of
Salvador, who rarely see any other Englishmen,
but the rough and ill educated masters of
merchant ships, contrast the two nations un-
favorably.
They respect and admire England forher riches
and enterprise, but have a wonderful idea of the
melancholy and reserve of our countrymen, and
at first they seemed quite surprised to find that
we could talk and laugh like other mortals.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 129
There is a seabird on the coast, of a particidarly
solemn deportment, which the natives have
christened " the Englishman," and they say
any number of these birds may be congregated
together on the rocks, but not a sound pro-
ceeds from them. The parriquita^ the smallest
and most talkative of parrots, they call " the
Frenchman," but as they are exceedingly fond of
these amusing little birds the sohriqiiet may be
considered complimentary.
Ever since Walker's expedition to Nicaragua
the hatred towards Americans has been out-
rageous. At one time it was scarcely safe
for one of that nation to travel alone, muttered
imprecations and lowering looks meeting him at
every turn, and they were most unwillingly
received at the posadas. The slightest dispute
between America and England was hailed with
delight as likely to lead to a war, and perhaps to
the extermination of their hated enemy, for as
to the possibility of the English ever getting a
130 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
defeat, it never occurred to them, which shows
that though they have no great love for England
they hold her superior to every other nation in
the world.
We passed several months at Santa Tecla, but
at the end of that time began to sigh for the
refreshing rivers and cheerful society of Son-
sonate, of both of which there is a great dearth
in Santa Tecla, so taking advantage of a short
spell of fine weather in the month of August we
set off on our return home in the same manner as
we came.
The roads were of course in a fearful state
after three months of incessant rains, and this
made it very fatiguing for both horses and riders,
but on the second day we arrived in safety at
Sonsonate, which certainly felt very like an oven
after Santa Tecla, but the first bath in the
delicious river San Antonio quite reconciled us
to the change.
We also appreciated the graceful cocoa-nuts
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 131
and fragrant orange and mango trees, after re-
siding in a place nearly destitute of them, and
the kind and warm-hearted welcome of our
friends made us feel more at home than we could
in any other spot of Central America.
In October of the same year, however, we were
obliged to make preparations for a return to Eng-
land, after an absence of eight years. It was with
a profound regret that I bade adieu to many kind
friends, whose affection had endeared the country
to us, and I felt also, as we rode for the last time
down to the seaport of Acajutta, that my eyes
could never rest on a lovelier land, with its
smiling plains rich in fruit trees, and its splendid
ranges of majestic mountains, whose volcanic
peaks seemed to pierce the azure sky above.
The sea, as usual, was very rough, making it
by no means a pleasant operation to be lowered
in a chair from the mole into the boat beneath,
and great dexterity is required to time the mo-
ment exactly when the boat is lifted up on the
K 2
132 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
crest of a huge wave. The occupant of the chair
is tumbled out in a very unceremonious manner,
and in another moment the boat is down in a
yawning gulf that seems about to swallow her
up.
After half an hour's tossing in this boat, we
were not sorry to find ourselves on board the
beautiful American steamer " Guatemala," more
like a gentleman's yacht in its luxurious appoint-
ments than a passenger ship. It was quite a
new vessel, built expressly for this line, and con-
tained every comfort and convenience for a
tropical climate. Large, airy sleeping cabins,
beautiful ventilation in every part, and a marble
bath room, so that the week's voyage to Panama
was as pleasant as anything at sea can be.
^ We touched at the port of Libertad, a few
leagues from San Salvador, the next morning,
but as the sea was raging, I was quite unable to go
on deck to have a peep at it. I believe however it
is. a miserable-place, like all the seaport towns,
-RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 13S
with only a roadstead, the same as at Acajutta,
and no mole, so everything has to be takeil
ashore in surf boats, which are often capsized.
After rolling about in a most distracting mari-
ner for a few hours we were again under weigh,
and the sea becoming calmer, I was able to get
on deck and enjoy the sight of the deep blue
water, just rippling under the soft fresh breeze.
The deck presented the usual appearance of list-
less readers and animated talkers. We had a
dij)lomatic gentleman, grave, reserved, and re-
fined in one corner; a Lord Dundreary in
another; a charming and mercurial young
Spaniard who talked to all in turn; while the
kind and obliging, but decidedly Yankee Captain
had laid himself up on a bench, and amused him-
self with the fierce antics of a beautiful tiger cat
that he was trying to tame.
Our next halting place was Realejo, the port
of the State of Nicaragua. It is a flat, un-
healthy looking town, suspiciously green, but
134 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTKAL AMEEICA,
pretty and fertile in appearance as seen from the
sea. Fever is very prevalent in the rainy season,
but a Consul is obliged to reside there all the year
round. The dulness of the place is excessive,
as the few foreigners in the State naturally settle
in the more healthy inland towns, and it is sur-
prising how any one can be found to accept an
appointment to such a wretched locality, where
the only excitement is the monthly arrival of
the steamer, and the glimpse of civilised life
then obtained.
After a stay of a few hours we again proceeded
on our way, and in two or three days arrived at
San Jose, the port of Costa Rica. This is a flat,
sandy -looking place, with the houses built nearly
into the water, and it had a hot, dreary, dusty
look about it, as if the inhabitants must always
suffer from thirst, which I believe they do, if re-
port speaks the truth. As we stayed one
whole day here, my husband and other passengers
went ashore to have a look at the town, which
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEKICA. 135
they described as being poor looking, though a
good deal of business is done in it, principally by
English and Americans, and there is a danger-
ous bar at the entrance of the harbour, which
makes it a hazardous undertaking to go ashore
at low tide. A few more days passed plea-
santly on board the ' Guatemala,' with a cloud-
less sky and just enough breeze to refresh us and
ripple the sea, and we then found ourselves
entering the lovely Bay of Panama, studded with
little islands wooded to the water's edge.
Several American steamers and men-of-war of
various nations were lying at anchor, giving anima-
tion to the scene, and a truly pleasant sight to any
one fresh from the other deserted Central American
ports. A small steamer soon made its appearance,
and took the few passengers on shore. We were
landed at a civilized-looking wharf, and an omni-
bus was in waiting to take us to an hotel, but as
we jolted along the rough, narrow streets, I began
to compare wild and civilized life, I fear to the
136 EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
disadvantage of the latter, and it was not the
first time that I had done so.
I was much pleased with the appearance of
Panama, with its high balconied houses, looldng
so old and quaint and truly Spanish, and at our
hotel, which was kept by Germans, we had toler-
ably comfortable rooms, though at an exorbitant
price. The table was excellent, every luxury
being procurable, even ices, the weekly steamer
from New York bringing quantities of ice to
the Isthmus, and as it has been found of the
greatest benefit in fevers, it is eagerly sought after
by high and low. Our stay at the hotel was very
short, some hospitable friends having invited us
us to their house.
The principal object of interest in Panama is
the old sea wall built by the Spaniards. It is of
immense strength and thickness, and a few years
ago was strongly fortified and armed with beauti-
ful brass guns, but the Government lately sold
all but a few, that are quite insufiicient for pur-
pose of defence.
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 137
The rampart is the favourite phice for the
evening and moonlight lounge. At the latter
time the view of the broad hay, all flooded with
light, is indeed lovely. There is nothing re-
markable about any of the churches or public
buildings, with the exception of one picturesque
old ruin of the first church erected by the
Spaniards in Panama; the bells are most beauti-
ful, and so wonderfully sonorous and musical in
tone that there is a tradition attached to them.
It is said that on contributions being requested
by the King'of Spain for the bells which he wished
to present to the church, the ladies of the Court,
in their pious zeal, had their gold and silver
ornaments melted down, in order that the sound
should be enriched by those precious metals,
whilst offering a truly royal gift to their king.
I was much surprised to see so many negroes
in Panama. The servants are nearly entirely
from that race, and bitter are the complaints of
dishonesty, laziness, and incurably dirty habits.
Some friends of ours, with whom we lived during
138 RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMEEICA.
our short stay at Panama, had been so disgusted
with the details of housekeeping that they
adopted the excellent plan, of having their
breakfasts and dinners brought to them daily
from the German hotel, thereby saving all the
trouble and worry entailed by dishonest cooks,
who consider it a regular perquisite to feed their
numerous relations at their master's cost.
The price of provisions is enormous at Panama,
ever since the completion of the railroad, and the
influx of Californians ; the reckless extravagance
of the latter, and their apparent disregard of
their hard won gold, being a great misfortune
to the inhabitants of any town through which
they pass, instantly raising, as they do, the
price of everything. We found the society of
Panama very pleasant ; the ladies especially
having a peculiar fascination of manner,
and most of them sing with much taste and
sweetness to the guitar. Their national song
is very beautiful and spirit stirring, Simon
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 139
Bolivar being of course the subject of it. It
consists of about twenty verses, some of which are
very pretty. There is a more aristocratic feeling
in Panama, as far as I could judge amongst the first
native families, than in the other Central American
States, and strangers who come without letters
of introduction cannot get an entree into the best
circle. A great many Americans, and a few
English, are settled in the town, but mix very
little, I am told, with the natives.
After a pleasant stay of twelve days, the Cali-
fornian steamer arrived, so we prepared to make
a start for Colon, or Aspinwall, as the Americans
call it, to meet the New York steamer, which
was only waiting for the Californian passengers.
As we wished to see something of Colon, we
started, accompanied by some friends, a day
sooner than was necessary, and it was with much
interest that I found myself crossing the nar-
row Isthmus that divides the two great oceans.
The railway carriages are arranged r) T Americaine.,
140 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
without any divisions, and reminded me more of a
church than anything else, with the aisle down the
middle, and the pews on each side ; for a hot country
this certainly has its advantages, being infinitely
cooler, and the comfort of an occasional promenade
down the whole length of the train is great.
After so many years of horseback travelling, it
seemed very strange to be rushing through the
wild country at the rate of thirty miles an hour,
and the fiice of our Salvador servant, whom we
had brought with us, was quite a picture. As the
train started with its shrill whistle, alarm, awe,
and amazement, were all vividly expressed, and we
had travelled some miles before he recovered his
equanimity. The different stations on the road
are very pretty and picturesque, but look strangely
out of keeping with the wild, desolate country.
With the exception of the station houses, scarcely
a habitation is to be seen along the whole forty
miles. Jungle and swamp, and an occasional
wooded hill of no considerable height, is the sort
EECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 141
of country through which the train rushes to
the shores of the Atlantic.
Hundreds of unfortunate Irishmen fell victims
to the deadly climate in the construction of this
railway. As soon as one batch was swept away ,
another was sent from New York to fill their
place, until the forty miles — as fatal to life as
many a battle field — were successfully completed.
I was told that in many places the men had to
work up to their knees in water, while jungle
had to be cleared and valleys filled up with
immense cost and labour, but the Company is
now reaping a golden harvest, the Californians
preferring this route home to that through
Nicaragua and Greytown, as being more direct
and less troublesome.
In an hour's time we came in sight of the
Atlantic, and of the strange-looking wooden
town of Colon, with its flimsy-painted houses
gleaming bright in the sunshine, forming such a
contrast to venerable Spanish-looking Panama.
142 RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA.
In Colon everything is American, hotels, shops
(or stores as they are called), and people. The
Yankee twang resounds on every side, and
scarcely anyone of Spanish descent is to be seen.
The lower class seemed to consist almost entirely
of blacks — I suppose originally from Jamaica.
The principal hotel is a very fine one, built quite
in the American style, with a capital table d'hote^
capable of accommodating an immense number
of visitors ; a most luxurious table is kept, every-
thing being excellent in quality, and cooked to
perfection, the hotel belonging to an Irishman,
who prides himself not a little on the style
of the whole thing in such a place as Colon.
There being no room in the hotel for us, the
hospitable proprietor gave us up his own private
house for the night, and would not hear of any
remuneration.
Before dinner, we and our kind Panama friends
sallied out to have a look at the town, and the
beautiful promenade by the sea- shore, which was
RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 143
just completed by subscription. The town itself
is ugly and uninteresting, as all new American
towns are ; but the road by the sea is lovely.
Groups of graceful cocoa-nut trees are left here
and there, their stems nearly washed by the crested
waves as they roll in. The road is beautifully
kept, broad and even, and pretty detached houses
lie a little back from it, as clean and bright-
looking as paint can make them. All have
Venetian blinds, and pretty shady porticoes ; and
I can fancy how pleasant it must be to sit out of
an evening and enjoy the sight and sound of
the great rolling waves as they burst on the
shore.
One part of the road lies through a beautiful
forest, and here, under the magnificent trees,
seats are placed for the weary. This promenade
is, of course, the favourite resort of all Aspinwall
at sunset ; indeed, it is the only place where you
can walk with any pleasure, as the streets are
144 KECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.
very dirty, and in the rainy season almost impas-
sible from mud.
The climate is dreadfully sickly, and so fatal
to women, that as soon as the rains commence, the
Americans send off their wives and children to
New York, where they remain until December,
when the place becomes comparatively healthy.
What a life for the unfortunate married people ;
but what will not be endured for the sake of
making money ?
The houses are beautifully furnished, and the
merchants seem to be doing a thriving business,
so that no doubt, in a few years, it will be a large
and prosperous town, though horribly unhealthy
it must always be, for it is built upon a
swamp.
The rainy season was nearly over when we
were there ; but an occasional storm still made
its appearance, and on our way back to our
hotel we were caught in one of these. Before
"RECOLLECTIONS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 145
we could reach shelter, the streets were a bog,
and we sank ankle deep every step we took. If
one heavy shower has this effect upon the spongy
ground, what must it be when the rain pours
every day down in floods ?
The mosquitoes even in the dry season are
formidable enemies to any European ; so vene-
mous is their sting that every bite becomes an
ulcer, particularly on children. My little boy
was two months in recovering from the effects of
one night at Aspinwall.
We were not sorry on the following day to bid
adieu to the dreary spot, and embark on board
the " Baltic," the freight of Californians being
already on board — for no other passengers are
allowed to set foot in the vessel until these gentry
are comfortably installed, having had the choice
of all the cabins.
What a chaos the steamer presented with its
thousand passengers, hundreds of children chok-
ing up every passage, and the decks so crowded
It
146 EECOLLECTIONS OP CENTEAL AMERICA.
that it was a matter of difficulty to thread one's
N'dj, but fortunately, all had recovered from their
sea-sickness, so that horror was not added to the
stifling heat and other discomforts of the
"Baltic," which was built originally for the
American line between New York and England;
for which reason there was not a single con-
trivance for coolness, warmth being the one thing
thought of. The consequence was that the atmos-
phere of the cabins and ladies' saloon was so fear-
fully oppressive, that I wonder the poor little
children on board survived it.
T would advise no one, at least no lady, ever
to return to Europe vid New York, unless abso-
lutely obliged to do so, for no words can express
the amount of misery and suffering condensed in
that one week's voyage ; and the sudden transi-
tion also from excessive heat to the extreme of
cold, must be very trying to the constitution.
Three days before arriving at New York, the
sky seems almost suddenly to change from the
RECOLLECTIONS OP CENTRAL AMERICA. 147
deep tropical azure to a dreary milk and water
hue ; the sun himself seems to become an insigni-
ficant atom of light instead of the blazing giant
he was, and everything looks terribly sad, cheer-
less, and wild.
We arrived at New York at mid-night, and
before eight o'clock next morning every passen-
ger had landed, the tardy ones being nearly
swept out of* their cabins by the impatient
stewards, whose utter want of courtesy is some-
thing to be remembered for ever.
So ended the most disagreeable voyage T ever
made in all my travels, and those alone who have
experienced the same trials can imagine how we
revelled in New York comfort and luxury, which
is carried to perfection in the hotels.
In a few short weeks we were in England.
L 2
148
THE EARTHQUAKE OP SAN SALVADOR,
APRii 16th, 1854.
(Page 65.;
Note. — One shock had occurred about half-an-hour before the
dreadful convulsion which destroyed the city, and this warning,
by causing the inhabitants to rush out into the streets, saved many
lives.
The quiet City slept,
No storm was in the sky,
But brilliant stars their vigil kept.
Glowing like lamps on high.
Purple the depths of night,
And still the sleeping air,
Save for fresh murmurs soft and light.
Of water everywhere.
The quiet City slept —
At least, to outward view ;
But some, they smil'd, and others wept ;
With some the minutes flew.
When hark ! the church tolls ten !
Soft— solemn — clear — it rings.
Floating o'er mount, and stream, and glen
As if the sound had wings.
Scarce was the echo o'er.
When nature felt the throea
Of fiery life. Bursting the door
That prison'd her, she rose.
In smoke, and steam, and dust.
In shakings to and fro,
Cracking the hot and parched crust
That hides the flame below !
THE EARTHQUAKE OF SAN SALVADOE« 149
The houses totter, fall,
Churches are rent in twain,
Crumbles to dust the massive wall.
And Death and Ruin reign.
All nature feels the crash.
And sights and sounds of pain
Scare like the lurid lightning's flash.
And madden ev'ry brain.
The dying and the dead
Mix with the living stream,
Lovers that yesterday were wed
Wake from their blissful dream.
All throng the open streets.
With wild and startled air ;
And ev'ry heart in anguish beats.
Or finds its strength in prayer.
Ten seconds brief are fled.
The rapid shocks are o'er.
And dust and ashes wide are spread
O'er scenes so fair before.
Dark chasms yawn around.
Trees from their roots are torn,
And ruins strew the burning ground,
Where late the flow'rs were born.
The husband's breaking heart
Calls for the young, the dead,
Whose tender soul of his was part,
But now for ever fled.
Mothers for children mourn.
Like Rachel, comfortless !
Death from their circling arms hath torn
The babes they lov'd to bless.
Hundreds, in mute despair,
Gaze on each ruin'd home,
Then wild lamentings pierce th? air.
While want and rapine roam.
1150 THE EAETHQUAKU OF SAN SALVADOE.
Priests hold aloft the cross.
Sign of redeeming love,
3^nd bid men seek, 'mid ev'ry loss.
To fix their hopes above.
The hearts so dead before.
Wake to a sense of sin.
And loudly now for grace implore.
And peace, and pardon win.
The trembling earth is still
When dawns another day,
And o'er a scene most drear and chill
Glimmers the sun's red ray.
Is this the city proud
Where wealth and pleasure dwelt?
This crumbling church the same whose crowd
In pious worship knelt ?
Are these the homes so fair.
Where love deHghted smil'd ?
■This sulph'rous breath the same sweet air
Which toilsome hours beguil'd ?
Alas ! the same — the same j
One hour of wild dismay
Upon the stately city came.
So fair but yesterday !
The homes where children play'd.
The lovers' leafy bow'r,
The churches where the faithful pray'd
AU felt that earthquake's pow'r.
So floods of passion come
In fire to rend the soul.
So lie the ruined hearts of some
O'er which griefs earthquakes roll.
The heart is still the same.
But turn'd to ashes ! dust !
( Burnt by some deep consuming flame
Like Earth's volcanic crust.
151
THE HOUR OF REST.
Note — Near the Guarramal, a mountain gnlly in Salvador, there
stands a cotton tree of extraordinary size and beauty, and beneath its
shade travellers find a cool resting-place even in the hottest part of
the day. The writer has lost her memorandum of the dimensions of
this gigantic tree, and fears to hazard a statement that might seem
exaggerated, as only those who have seen these enormous trees can
form any idea of their size. She remembers at the time she rested
under this particular tree, her impression was that a regiment of sol-
diers might have sheltered themselves beneath its branches.
Alone it stands, that Monarch of the woods !
Like some cathedral vast, its leafy dome
Towers against the Heaven's celestial blue,
While from its verdant depths soft whispers come.
A world of shadow lies beneath its boughs.
And cool and green the daylight then declines,
Except where on the sward, a brilliant gleam
Its struggling way has marked in broken lines.
Countless as stars above, the dewy leaves
Reach like a glist'ning curtain to the ground.
While giant branches rear their arms on liigh.
Fed by the rains, by centuries embrown'd.
The air is full of song, of tender trills.
Of many long drawn out melodious notes ;
And Heaven's choristers their anthems sing
With quiv'ring plumage spread, and fluttering throats.
There sweet Sonsontes* chant their magic lay.
Others responding from that leafy screen.
And birds like jewels gleam upon the wing
Matching the sapphire's and the ruby's sheen.
* Mocking-bird.
152 THE HOUE OP EEST.
Beside that mighty tnmk two children play.
Lovely and happy a3 the birds above.
With flowing golden hair and azure eyes,
Their^^parents watching them with tender love.
The weary horses stand beneath the shade
With languid eyes half clos'd and heads that droop,
And on the grass the sunburnt guides recline
Forming a dusky background to the group.
Sweet hour of rest ! of cool delicious rest
For thoughtful woman and for working man,
For happy childhood, making play a toil,
For faithful steeds. — Best all — rest while ye can.
So in life's journey shady spots there are.
Where for a while the soul can rest in peace
After some conflict won, some sorrow pass'd.
When Christ has told the warring winds to cease.
'Tis then God's voice is heard amongst the trees,
And in the stormy ocean's ebb and flow,
In ev'ry echo of the mountain range,
On frowning height, in smiling vale below.
Beneath the shadow of His love we rest
Secure from passion's scorching sun the while.
From sorrow's cloud, from sin's defiling dust.
Feeling His presence, conscious of His smile.
^■£'6^^=^?l5^':«?f*'>^—
PAET II.
A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA AND THE
WEST COAST OF AFEICA.
CHAPTER I.
My husband having "been appointed Consul at
Lagos in 1860, he went there first alone, and
wrote to me to go to Madeira with my little girl
and await there his summons to join him. After
a stormy passage in the month of November,
Madeira lay before me — the place of all others,
that I had long wished to see.
How lovely it looked as we approached it,
with its towering hills, and verdant slopes, and
pretty cheerful houses, half embedded in trees !
156 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
The harbour was crowded with boats, going to
and from our Queen's yacht, which had just
landed the Empress of Austria, and looked very
beautiful lying at anchor in the blue waters of
the bay.
Wonderful little boys, without a stitch of
clothing on them, swam round the ship like so
many young porpoises, diving for the silver coins
thrown to them by the passengers — which were
distinctly seen, so clear is the water, lying on the
yellow sand.
After waiting a tedious time for the visit of
the custom-house and health-officer, we were at
length allowed to land — a somewhat disagreeable
undertaking in Madeira when the wind blows, as
then the breakers near shore are very apt to upset
the boat that trusts to them.
We were fortunate, however, in having a calm
day, and the third wave bore us high and dry on
the shingly beach of Funchal.
AND THE WEST COAST OF APEICA. 157
The instant I set foot on shore, I fancied my-
self once more in Portugal ; there were the
creaking ox-carts, the lumbering carriages drawn
by the same animals, the sun-burnt drivers with
their round felt-hats and short jackets, the women
with the dark stuff petticoats and snow-white
handkerchief on their heads, there also was the
market-place with its fountain of purest water,
the plaza with its avenue of trees ; even the
climate seemed the same with its azure sky, and
soft warm breeze laden with the perfume of
flowers ; and last, though not least, there were
the very same little ragged urchins, clamouring
for cinco reis^ the most importunate and impu-
dent of their race.
After the ox-carriage had rattled us over the
cruel stones we arrived at the boarding-house,
where I intended to reside for a time. A small
door admitted us at once into a lovely garden,
full of roses and other flowers in bloom, and
commanding from its trellised walks an en-
158 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
chanting view of the harbour, and miles of blue
sea
I secured a couple of large airy rooms on the
ground floor, with windows opening both on land
and sea views. They were prettily furnished in
white and rose colour, and cool straw-mats of
very fine texture covered the floors — welcome
substitutes for carpets.
The dining-room up-stairs was a noble apart-
ment, opening with French windows on another
garden at the back of the house. The latter
was not of great extent, but the view of
the mountain that seemed to rise almost abruptly
from its edge was very beautiful.
Far, far above us, gleamed the white church
of Nossa Senora del Monte, with its flight of
many steps, and the black fir forest almost encir-
cling it.
Lower down the hill, bright green patches of
sugar-cane were very conspicuous ; the culture of
this plant having quite superseded that of the
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 159
vine since the grape disease. Beautiful creepers
are also now frequently seen, trained on the
trellises, where the vine used to flourish, adding
greatly to the beauty of these embowered walks.
Some of these creepers are of such brilliant dyes,
that the eye is almost dazzled by their splendoui-
as they fall in graceful festoons over the grey
stone walls.
A Madeira garden comprises everything most
beautiful in nature, improved by art. In addi-
tion to the flowers and shady walks, its terraces
command the most glorious views over land and
sea. The steep nature of the ground necessitates
this construction of the gardens, and the eye
looks down upon a succession of brilliant plateaus,
one beneath another, where the camellias and
orange trees mingle their foliage.
On one side of the steep streets, high granite
walls are built, and these have the advantage of
casting a pleasant shade on the narrow stoney
160 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
hills, which would otherwise be insupportably
hot and fatigueing.
The fashionable promenade had lately been
completed, by subscription ; the late Queen
Adelaide having, I believe, started the under-
taking with a munificent donation.
It is a broad, smooth, civilized-looking road,
winding round the edge of the cliffs, and com-
mands lovelv and extensive views.
Here, at sunset, are to be seen all the elite of
Funchal, mostly on horseback, but a few also lum-
bering along in the ox-carriage. Pedestrians are
few, and far between, the tremendous hills daunt-
ing nearly everyone from much exercise on
foot.
Almost every hired horse is accompanied by
its running footman, who is armed with a long
switch, with which he is incessantly whisking off
the flies. He keeps pace with his horse in a
wonderful manner, trotting or walking, as the
humour of its rider prompts him.
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 161
It amused me very much to see Englishmen
riding with this appendage at their heels, as if
they could not take care of themselves, but custom
is everything, and many assured me they would
not know how to get on without their attendant.
The horses, also, are so accustomed to have
the flies whisked oflf for them, that the poor things
do not know how to do it with their own
tails.
There are several shady plazas in the lower
part of the town In the principal one a fine
military band plays twice a week, on which occa-
sions there is scarcely standing room, so great is
the love of music among the Portuguese. Rows
of chairs are placed for the ladies beneath the
trees, which are quickly filled, principally by the
Portuguese ladies, all en grande toilette^ while
groups of our countrywomen, on horseback, ride
up and down on the outskirt of the crowd.
It is quite a treat to listen to such a band be-
neath such a sky. Every man who performs
TS.
162 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA
seems a born musician, and the most difficult
Italian overtures are executed in a manner
worthy of an orchestra at a first rate opera.
The English residents have a handsome club-
house, comprising ball room, reading room,
and library. The Portuguese have also their
Assembly rooms, where balls and concerts are
held.
There is a large English resident society, and
this of course is greatly increased by the winter
influx of visitors. A great number of Germans
were in Funchal when I arrived, the Empress of
Austria having made the place fashionable for
all the invalids throughout the fatherland. Her
Majesty won all hearts at Madeira by her beauty
and her grace of manner.
I used frequently to see her driving about in
her ox carriage, which mode of conveyance caused
her, I heard, great amusement on first arriving
at Funchal.
When she disembarked from the yacht one of
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 163
these lumbering equipages was waiting at the
landing place to convey her to her house, and
when she at length understood that is was meant
for her use, her gravity quite gave way. It ap-
pears that in Austria condemned criminals are
always taken to the scaffold in vehicles drawn by
oxen.
Those invalids who object to the wearisome
ox carriage are borne in hammocks slung on a
long pole and carried by two men.
Basket sledges are also much used for descend-
ing the hills. These are strange-looking convey-
ances, resembling very large arm chairs, with a low
back ; they can accommodate three persons com-
fortably, and are pushed, or rather held, by two
men behind, who regulate its speed by a rope on
each side. They glide down the slippery,
precipitous pavements, with great velocity, the
men having to run at a great speed to keep up
with them. Occasionally an overturn occurs,
but not frequently, and as the sledge is so near
M 2
164 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA
the ground, it is seldom any serious injury is
inflicted.
It is an exhilarating and pleasant way of get-
ting over the ground, and far preferable to either
carriage or hammock in its smooth, gliding
motion.
Soon after my arrival I made an excursion
with some friends to see the Cabo Girao, con-
sidered, I have heard, one of the highest promon-
tories in the world. It rises a sheer precipice
from the sea; and as our boat lay beneath in its
mighty shadow, the height we looked up at made
me giddy.
We landed at the miserable little dirty village
which lay at the foot of the mountain, and there
the gentlemen hired hammocks to ascend the pro-
ii^ontory. Another lady of the party and myself
did not feel equal to the undertaking, it being the
hottest time of the day, and the mountain destitute
of trees; so, after a little hesitation, we agreed to
return to Funchal, not by the boat, however, but .
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 165
on foot, as we had each felt a soupqon of sea^
sickness.
"We neither of us knew the way, but as wef
kept Nossa Senora del Monte as our beacon, we
knew we could not go far wrong.
The scenery was magnificent, making us for-
get our fatigue, and as I had the good fortune of
being with a companion who knew when to be
silent, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Kanges of blue mountains, dark chasms, and
fruitful valleys surrounded us on every side, and
as we had plenty of time before us, we took many
a rest by the way, feeling as if we could never
gaze long enough at so much beauty.
Occasionally we met a stray peasant, and as
I knew sufficient of the language to make myself
understood, we never lost our way, and arrived
at about four o'clock in Funchal, very tired, but
pleased with our exploit. "
The market-place in Funchal is a gay and
animated scene, in the early hours of the morn-
iQ6 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
ing ; it is crowded with the country people from
all the villages round, bringing in their fruit and
yegetables for sale, and I was pleased to see once
more the various costumes of Portugal ; amongst
others, the scarlet cloth cape of Braga, and the
wide black felt hats, adorned with tufts round
%e low crown.
: All sorts of things are sold in the market-
place, besides eatables ; shoes, baskets of every
description, some very pretty, and many articles
of coarse clothing.
The fish are remarkable for their brilliant
colours ; I have seen them of the brightest
crimson, blue, and violet. In fact the sun in
Madeira seems to paint everything, in hues,
brighter than elsewhere. The shops are famous
also for their lovely feather flowers, and speci-
mens of embroidery and crochet work are ex-
hibited in their windows.
' The Portuguese excel in needlework of every
-kind, and are as great in hemming and stitching
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 167
as they are in fancy work. Their crochet is
remarkably fine and delicate, looking almost like
Honiton lace, and their knitted shawls are very
pretty and elegant, and so fine, that they can be
passed through a ring.
The feather flowers of Madeira are almost as
beautiful as the natural ones, and are made
entirely from the plumage of birds. The hum-
ming-birds contribute largely to form these
lovely wreaths, and the brilliant colours of
their plumage vie with the flowers they feed on.
The greatest taste is displayed in the arrange-
ment of the wreaths, and nature is copied so
closely, that it requires almost the touch to con-
vince one that the flowers are artificial.
Though so many invalids resort to Madeira,
no impression of gloom is left on the mind.
Cheerful faces abound, and everyone seems enjoy-
ing life to the utmost. Even of the consumptive
patients the greater number are able to take a
168 A GLIMPSE AT IIADEIEA
daily ride, accompanied by their friends ; and
the exquisite beauty of the climate seems to
have a renovating eflfect on everyone.
The English church is very pretty, but of
peculiar construction, being of a rotunda shape,
supported by pillars. The music is very good,
principally, I believe, amateur, and the church
is so well ventilated, that no inconvenience is
felt from the heat of the climate. It is sur-
rounded by a lovely garden, and scarcely looks
like a church outside, having neither turret,
spire, nor belfry.
The Presbyterians have their Scotch church in
another part of the town ; it is a neat and taste-
ful building, of white and grey stone ; and the
very high church party have hired a room where
service is performed, much to the surprise of the
Portuguese, who cannot understand the petty
differences that divide our Anglican church.
With them heretics are heretics voila tout I
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFKICA. 169
I was a little disappointed with the English
cemetery, having heard it was very beautiful.
It is kept, certainly, in the most perfect order?
but there are few fine monuments, and the stones
on the graves have nearly all the form of coffins,
which gives a most melancholy look to the whole
place.
I much preferred the Portuguese cemetery,
with its rows of large sombre cypresses, and
numerous stone crosses gleaming white amongst
the dark foliage,
. The patois [spoken by the lower orders in
Madeira is very ugly, and so different from the
Portuguese language when purely spoken, that I
had some difficulty in understanding it. The
' Z," — a letter frequently used in the language
— is always pronounced in Madeira as " sh," so
that they seem like a set of " ole clo' men," talk-
ing together.
The water carriers are an extraordinary race
of men, and all have a particular song, which
170 A GXilMPSE AT MADEIEA
they sing in a higli nasal discordant key, as they
slouch along with their large water jars poised on
their shoulders.
The water in Madeira is deliciously cold, pure,
and sparkling, and is brought from the mountains
by means of an aqueduct. This latter is a great
work, and must have cost much time and labour
to complete it, but most pleasant it is as you toil
Tip the steep burning hills, to hear the soft fresh
gurgle of water, pouring impetuously down its
stone reservoir.
Everyone visits the church called '' Nossa
Senora del Monte," so I felt bound to do the
same, and was amply repaid for the toilsome
ascent by the enchanting view obtained from the
spot where it is erected.
The church is an exceedingly ugly white
washed building, approached from the road by a
long flight of broad stone steps. The interior
has nothing in it worth seeing, but the eye turns
away from man's work to God's, and is satisfied.
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 171
The view is so extensive, commands such
miles of sea and land, that you feel almost in the
clouds. You look down on mountain tops, and
smiling valleys, and blooming gardens, until at
last in the far distance, the eye rests on Funchal,
girt by its belt of azure sea. Behind, still
higher mountains are piled, but the atmosphere
is so tiransparently clear that the tops appear
above the lower clouds.
The padre lives near his church, and pre-
sented us each with a choice bouquet from his
garden, inviting us at the same time to rest in
his summer house. I could not help envying
him his domain, lonely as it was, and thinking
how beautiful the scene before us must look,
lighted up by the rising sun, or flooded by moon-
light. What a long column of silver or gold must
dance on the distant ocean ; what gleams of light,
and black shadows, on mount, valley and tree L
172 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIKA
CHAPTER II.
In tlie beginning of February I received a
summons from my husband to join him in
Africa, so, hastily making my arrangements,
I left Madeira in the mail steamer for the west
coast.
I embarked in the midst of the greatest
deluge of rain that I have ever seen out of the
tropics.
The harbour was crested with foam, and the
task of getting into the boat, which was to con-
vey me on board, was by no means a pleasant
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 173
one. I expected every instant to see it capsized
in the great rolling breakers, but I fortunately
got on board the steamer without a wetting,
though feeling very discouraged at such an out-
set to my voyage.
The storm raged throughout the night, and
for a time we were in great danger and narrowly
escaped losing one of our boats. Towards morn-
ing, however, the sky cleared, and we entered
the harbour of Teneriffe with a rough sea, but
brilliant sunshine; dark, heavy clouds shut out
the peak from our view, which was as great a
disappointment to me, as anything could be in my
sea-sick and miserable condition.
The island looks very beautiful from the
harbour, but I was too ill to go on shore as I had
intended, so was obliged to content myself by
looking on the strangely shaped hills, over
which the black clouds were scudding at mad
speed.
Teneriffe is not nearly so fertile looking as_
174 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
Madeira, the eye missing the luxuriant gardens,"
and groups of trees, but the form of the hills is
very grand and wild, and a tree would seem
almost out of place.
After a delay of a few hours we resumed
our voyage, the weather becoming every day
hotter, and the air losing the clearness and
purity that makes the climate of Madeira so
delicious.
The atmosphere as we approached the Gambia
assumed a reddish hue, and a hot mist hung like
a low cloud on the horizon. This appearance in
the air is caused by the particles of red sand from
the great desert, which are blown to the coast
by the Harmattan wind, a hot easterly blast
that seems to scorch the skin.
On the eighth day from Teneriffe we reached
the low shores of Bathurst, the first glimpse of
African shore that I had seen. It looks very
uninviting from the water, with its flat dull
looking beach and ugly houses almost rising from
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 175
the water's edge; I believe, however, that there
are some fine houses in the town, and a good
trade is done here in palm oil, and ground nuts.
A great quantity of the latter were shipped,
and I was induced from curiosity to taste one of
the nuts, but found it so exceedingly nasty, that
I did not repeat the experiment.
I have heard they are a great article of food
amongst the inhabitants, and they are also given
to pigs and poultry.
The Gambia is said to be one of the most un-
healthy spots on the coast, and it has the appear-
ance of being so, with its low swampy shores
barely rising from the water.
A few negroes came on board, but they seemed
a far more civilised set than those farther down
the coast, and therefore not half so amusing
and interesting.
After one day in this broiling harbour, we
again proceeded on our voyage, and some days
elapsed before we came in sight of Sierra Leone.
176 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
This is a lovely spot, with wooded heights, and
blue shadowy mountains, taking the form of a
lion couchant, and the harbour is a beautiful
sheet of water, but the heat of it is intense, shut
in, as it is, by high hills on every side excepting
one.
The steamer had no sooner anchored than we
were surrounded by the long canoes from shore,
filled with natives, who kept up the most inces-
sant gibbering and singing.
I was looking over the side of the vessel with
my little girl, watching the swift paddling of a
very large canoe, when we were startled by sud-
denly becoming the object of an ovation. Twenty
pairs of wild, gleaming eyes were fixed on us, and
the men then burst out into an extempore song, of
which my little girl and myself were the subject.
These songs are nothing but a repetition of
the same words, all chanted together in a sort of
wild recitative, and not without a certain
musical cadence.
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 177
I went on shore with some of my fellow pas-
sengers to have a peep at the town, and was
much pleased with its general appearance. We
went to some of the principal shops, and finally
strolled through the market-place, which was
crowded with buyers and sellers.
The most picturesque groups met the eye at
every turn, and as every tribe has its distinct
costume, our walk was a most interesting one.
Some of the men were very handsome, with
fine, regular features and stately figures. Most
of them wore the wide Turkish trouser and
a toga flowing gracefully from one shoulder, with
white or coloured turbans twisted round their
heads.
Some of these togas were snow white, others
crimson, or striped orange and green, and alto-
gether they formed groups that any painter
would have loved to sketch.
The women were almost equally picturesque,
with their brilliant handkerchiefs knotted round
N
178 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA
their heads, and their suits of many colours, but
their faces were not nearly so handsome as the
men's.
The market is well supplied with heaps of
tempting fruit and vegetables, all ridiculously
cheap. One of the passengers hired a boy with
a basket to make some purchases, and to our great
amusement we found presently two boys in our
train, the smallest of them having been hired by
the other to do his work. It was so truly African
that we all laughed.
At one of the stalls we saw a strange sight —
a black woman in a rage ; I thought at first she
was mad, and did not at all like getting into
her neighbourhood, but we were told by the by-
standers that her state was only caused by passion,
another market women having insulted her. She
paced up and down near her stall like an enraged
hyena, uttering the most fearful yells, and what
must have been imprecations, only we for-
tunately did not understand her dreadful Ian--
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 17^
guage. Her face was distorted in tlie most
frightful manner, and she flung her long bony
arms about like a maniac. I never saw such a
terrible exhibition of savage rage, but fortunately
the object of her wrath was out of her reach, or
I am sure murder would have been committed.
On our way to the house of one of the Sierra
Leone missionaries, where we were going to spend
the day, we passed the newly-built cathedral, a
large, but ugly yellow building, which I have
heard has cost a great sum of money, with very
little to show for it in the way of beauty or'
decoration.
Sierra Leone looks like one large garden, with
its broad, red gravel walks, and groups of trees.
In many of the streets these last have been left
on each side of the way, making delightful
shady avenues, intermingled with prettily built
houses, all intertwined with flowering creepers,
and each with their wide portico. The missionary's
N 2
180 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
house was very pretty, surrounded by its garden,
and with plenty of large windows and doors to
admit the breeze.
When the heat of the day was past, we sallied
out to see the English chapel and school-house;
the former is a very plain wooden building, inno-
cent of all adornment, but well ventilated and
capable of accommodating a great many people.
The schools are flourishing, as the natives of
Sierra Leone are very anxious to give their
children some education, but we had not time to
visit them.
After taking a short walk in the environs,
which are very pretty, we returned on board our
ship, just as the short twilight was giving place
to night.
The heat was tremendous on board that night,
and aggravated by the coal dust, which impreg-
nated the whole air, the ship having coaled in
our absence.
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 181
We were glad next morning, at an early hour,
to bid adieu to this lovely, though broiling
place, hoping to find a cooler breeze at sea. The
difference, however, was very slight, and for the
next two days the fierce rays of the sun seemed
to pierce to the very marrow of our bones. The
tar melted betwen the boards of the deck, and
not a breath of air stirred the unruffled sea,
which reflected back the glare of the blue heavens,
until the sight ached. Strong men reclined on
the straw chairs on deck, gasping for breath,
and an almost unbroken silence prevailed.
It was too hot either to speak, eat, or sleep,
the three great means of passing time on board
ship ; smoking even, seemed at a discount, and
so the weary hours crept on, until Cape Patmas
came to view.
A cooler breeze now springing up, every one
revived under its influence, and crowded to the
side nearest land to have a look at the seaport of
Liberia.
182 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
Crowds of canoes immediately put off from
land, and we were surrounded by real bona fide
savages, men adorned with featliers stuck in
their wool, and strange looking armlets, and
anklets of bone, and beads, with no other cloth-
ing worth speaking of.
They were the most wonderful swimmers I
ever saw ; the great waves constantly upset their
light canoes, but they would swim after them,
right them again, and scramble in, just as if
nothing had happened.
We were soon boarded by a crowd of these
wild looking men, all grinning and gesticulating
like monkeys; some of them came with a few
vegetables and fruit for sale, but the greater part
w^ere empty handed, evidently only coming for
the sake of the expedition.
i We only stayed a few hours in this place, and
therefore were unable to go on shore, even
had it looked sufficiently inviting to tempt us.
It struck me as being very ugly and un-
AND THE WEST COAST OF APRICA. 183
interesting after Sierra Leone, the land much
lower, and less wooded, but higher than that of
the Gambia.
I have heard that the free blacks are getting
on very well in their republic of Liberia, and that
many of the merchants are amassing large
fortunes, and send their children to England to
be educated. Many from Sierra Leone are now
settled there, and are helping to civilise the
original inhabitants. The only class who elude all
endeavours of this kind are the Kroomen, chiefly
known on the coast as boatmen, who lead a wild
roving life, and who are as untameable as the
billows on which they live.
After weighing anchor, a number of these men
still continued on board, having left their canoes
under the care of some friends in the harbour.
Cape Patmas was fiding in the distance, but still
they lingered, until a stern order from the cap-
tain made them rush to the side of the vessel
and leap overboard like so many deer. They
184 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
swam with astonishing rapidity to the distant
harbour, their round, black heads dotting the
bkie sea in every direction.
In three days we arrived at Cape Coast, con-
sidered one of the most deadly spots in Africa.
It has a fearfully hot, dusty look, seen from the
water. Not a blade of grass, not a green tree
grows on its barren soil, and the great granite
castle, built right down on the sea shore, glares
with a sort of white heat.
The land is fringed with a line of raging
breakers, disagreeable to cross, even in the dry
season, but dangerous during the rains.
The great heat and difficulty of landing de-
terred me from making the attempt, though some
ladies on board did venture to do so.
There is nothing of interest to be seen beyond
the castle, and the grave of poor L. E. L., to
which spot travellers generally make a pil-
grimage.
While the passengers were on shore a stiff
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 185
breeze arose, wliich lashed the harbour into a very
tumultuous state, and rendered the getting on
board the steamer again so very disagreeable an
operation, that I was heartily glad I had not
ventured on shore when I saw the poor ladies
scarcely able to stand in the narrow canoe, and
surrounded by a set of excited gesticulating
savages.
They were almost as wild a looking set of
men as those at Cape Patmas, but a little
tamed down by frequent association with the
white man.
A great chief came off in the evening to
pay a visit to the steamer, gorgeously ap-
parelled, and looking very dignified under his
huge crimson umbrella. He sat by himself,
talking to no one, and looking very much like
a great painted idol, so immoveable was his posi-
tion.
One day's steaming brought us to Accra, a
186 A GLIMPSE AT MADE[EA
fresher, greener place than Cape Coast, but very
uninteresting in appearance.
I believe good cattle and horses are obtained
here, the pasturage being very fair for the coast,
and the place is famous for its lovely birds,
cages full of which are brought to the steamers
for sale.
Some exquisite little creatures were kindly
presented to my child by one of the passengers.
Their cage was very small, but twenty tiny
birds found room in it. Ten of them rested to-
gether on each perch. The upper tier were jet
black, with bright yellow bills and feet, and were
round and plump, but no bigger than humming
birds. The other ten were still more beautiful,
with dove-coloured wings and breasts, and bright
scarlet heads and beaks, and were as small, but
more delicately-shaped than the black ones.
To my great annoyance, the slight cane cage
in which they were confined got broken to pieces
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 187
between Accra and Lagos, and all my little
prisoners made their escape.
I was surprised to find how much cooler it
became as we neared Lagos ; a strong breeze re-
freshed us, and though the sun was still hotter
than was pleasant, we no longer suffered from the
stifling heat we had experienced at Sierra Leone.
It is only one day's voyage from Accra to
Lagos, and great was my joy when a low yellow
shore, scarcely perceptible in the distance, was
pointed out to me as my destination.
No large ship can enter the harbour, on ac-
count of a great sandbank, which stretches nearly
across its mouth, so our steamer anchored in the
roadstead, and as the sea was very calm, we were
not rolled about in the usually distracting manner.
A slight line of foam accross the entrance
of the harbour showed us where the breakers
were, ready to be lashed into fury when the
rainy season commenced. It is dangerous, even
in the summer, for any boat except a canoe to
188 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
pass througli that track of foam, but occasionally
men-of-war boats do venture, and several melan-
choly accidents happened in consequence.
My husband came in a large, well-manned
canoe to fetch me, and we passed the bar with
perfect safety, the last wave carrying us with a
dash into the calm, still harboui- of Lagos.
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 189
CHAPTER III.
My new home commanded a view of a noble
sheet of water, with low green shores nearly en-
circling it. The houghs of the trees dipped in the
waves, and the distant river, narrowing as it
went, gleamed like silver amid the foliage.
My first impressions of the place were not un-
favorable; above all I was pleased with my
house, so freshly painted, and adorned for my
reception, with its nice piece of garden full of
oleander and acacia trees ; the latter appearing
to grow wild in Lagos,
190 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
The rooms seemed deliciously cool and pleasant
after tlie burning hot ship I had left, and I
enjoyed the wide roofed verandah, which ran the
whole length of the house.
A broad, well kept road slightly raised from
the beach is the one promenade in Lagos, and the
merchants' houses are built a little way back,
commanding a fine view of the harbour and
sea.
This is the new part of the town, and it is
considered far healthier than the old, which lies
up the river, and is almost entirely inhabited
by natives, whose dirty habits increase the
natural unhealthiness of the spot.
These houses near the harbour mouth are
well built, most of them surrounded by pretty
gardens, tastefully laid out, but the rearing of
flowers requires a great deal of care and atten-
tion on account of the sandy soil and scorching
sun.
The beautiful mansion built by an Italian^
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 191
merchant, is worthy of mention, but seems al-
most out of phxce at Lagos. I was told that the
owner had brought Italian workmen from Genoa
to complete the inside of it. The floors are
nearly all of inlaid marble, and pictures by the
best modern Italian masters adorn the walls,
most of them battle pieces taken during the late
war of independence. The house is beautifully
furnished throughout, and the rooms so large
and lofty that the heat of the climate is rendered
endurable.
During the time I was at Lagos, there were
no streets properly so called, nothing but sandy
lanes with scattered houses, built at each side,
without any regard to regularity, and it was
an arduous undertaking to get from my house to
church, at mid-day, through the scorching sand,
which seemed to burn the feet, though it was
only a five minutes' walk.
The latter is a rude building with rough mud
192 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
walls of great thickness and a sloping thatched
roof.
There are a few pews at the side of the church
nearest the altar, but the rest of it is occupied by
rows of benches entirely filled by school children
and the native population.
I was much interested one Sunday in hearing
the communion service read in the native lan-
guage. It is a soft beautiful dialect full of vowels
apparently, and yet very forcible. There were
crowds of communicants, but it struck me they
came more out of curiosity, than from any real
understanding of the meaning of the Lord's
Supper ; and this opinion was afterwards con-
firmed by what I heard of the so called converts
to Christianity.
A dreadful old woman, a mass of leprosy, was
amongst the communicants, and took her place
with others at the altar. The horrible disease
was additionally revolting in contrast to her
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 193
black skin, but her neighbours did not seem to
dislike her proximity in the least, which struck
me as very strano-e, and unnatural.
I had heard much of the natural talent of the
negroes for music and singing, and therefore was
much disappointed at the way in which the
hymns and psalms were murdered. There was
no organ, but the school children howled in the
most discordant tones, without the slightest
attempt at either time or tune, in a manner that
suggested ideas not quite consistent with
Christian charity. The sermon is generally
preached in Ens.Tlish, but occasionally it is inter-
preted sentence by sentence, for the benefit of the
natives, an exceedingly tedious process to listen
to.
There is a Wesleyan Church also estab-
lished in Lagos which I have heard is better
attended by the natives than the Episcopal. It
is strange that the converts to Christianity
o
194 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
amongst the African race are nearly all dissen-
ters.
I was surprised to find that there was no
Eoman Catholic church in the place, notwith-
standing that the greater number of Europeans
settled in Lagos are of that faith, and when
speaking of this to a Portuguese merchant, he
only gave an expressive shrug, and said with
a smile,
" Ah ! we have not time for all that here.''
An answer that made a deep impression on me,
in a place where every one is living in the shadow
of death.
I have been told, however, that this feeling
is common in all the places on the west coast.
Knowing that their lives must necessarily be
short ones, most of the Europeans drown care
by incessant occupation or amusement. One
very sickly season in Sierra Leone was flimous
fur its number of gay balls, and recreations of
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 195
every kind, tliougli many were dancing on the
edge of tlie grave.
A gun boat is always stationed in the harbour
for the protection of the white inhabitants, but
the larger men-of-war and merchant's ships are
anchored outside the bar, where they roll about
in a distractino; manner.
Occasionally the officers come on shore, but
not often in the rainy season, on account of the
difficulty and danger of crossing the bar, so no
wonder the place is held in abhorrence by the
whole navy.
An unusual number of servants are required
in the African household, however small the
family, on account of their incorrigible laziness,
which exceeds anything I ever saw in other
countries.
First in the establishment is the butler, who is
a very august personage, combining in his person
the characters of purveyor, housekeeper, footman,
and valet. He does all the marketing, and has
2
196 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
whole and sole care of the cowries — the shell
money of the coast.
Next to him in importance is the cook, a per-
fect autocrot in the kitchen, who has usually two
underlings to help him. The black men are
generally first rate cooks, taking a keen interest
in their " art," and exciting the most languid
appetite by their tempting made dishes.
Women servants are seldom kept unless there
are children in the fiimily, and the good ones are
few and far between. They are even more lazy
than the men, and are careless, dirty, and cold
hearted.
The cowrie, or shell money, is most trouble-
some to a new arrival, it being next to impos-
sible to remember how many of these minute
shells go to a sixpence or a dollar.
One day soon after my arrival I wished for
some change for a sovereign, and told our major
domo he could bring it me in cowries. Soon
after, to my astonishment, I saw the man return,
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA.
I^
accompanied by two others, each bearing a heavy
sack on his shoulder. This was my change !
•For one week or so, I attempted house keep-
ing, but gave it up in despair on account of the
cowries, so our head man had everything in his
hands again; much to his triumph, no doubt,
as he secretly rejoiced over my discomfiture.
The climate in the dry season in not very
unhealthy in Lagos. From November to the
end of April fevers are rare, and I heard very
little of any other illness. The scorching
heat of the sun is tempered by a refresh-
ing sea breeze, and the evenings are very
pleasant.
From five to seven was my time for exercise,
visiting, or sailing on the harbour, which is a
beautiful sheet of water.
We had one very pleasant pic-nic to the great
sandbank at the mouth of the harbour, on which
the rolling waves of the Atlantic burst with such
fury.
198 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
The Lagos boatmen have covered this place
with offerings to their fetishes, in order to pro-
pitiate their idols when they cross the breakers.
Two poles are placed slantways in the sand,
and over these a small piece of canvass is ex-
tended, forming a kind of tent. On the ground
beneath are arranged the offerings, which con-
sist of all sorts of rubbish, bits of bone, old beads,
shells, scraps of crockery, and coloured rags, the
poor men believing that the fetish will be pleased
by such delicate attentions, and preserve their
lives from the fury of the waves.
It is to be hoped that the rising generation
will profit by the missionary schools now estab-
lished, and become real converts to Christianity,
which their fathers, as a general rule, are far
from being.
There is a strange society amongst the natives,
of which only men know the secret. I fancy it
must be a species of free masonry, and death
is the penalty of revealing its mysteries to any
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 199
woman A painful incident occurred while I
was at Lagos in connection with this society.
I was sitting in the verandah one soft, balmy
evening, enjoying the cool breeze, when I sud-
denly was startled by the sound of hurried
naked footsteps up the stairs, and on turning
round saw on the landing a tall, powerful-look-
ing black man, who immediately threw himself
on his knees, bending his forehead to the ground,
as the custom is when a favour is asked. At the
same time a flood of passionate words poured
from his lips^ not one syllable of which did I
understand.
My first impression was that he was mad, but
on hastily summoning one of the servants who
understood his dialect, I discovered that he
was an unfortunate fugitive, petitioning for a
night's shelter and concealment from his
pursuers.
It appeared that he belonged to this mysterious
society, and had, like another Samson, told his
200 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIKA
secret to a Delilah. The fact having become
known, his companions were hunting him, to
put him to some cruel death, and he now im-
plored me to protect him from their vengeance.
My husband was unfortunately absent from
home at the time, so I had no one to advise me
what to do, but I could not refuse the poor man
a night's shelter, and I told him he could occupy
one of the outhouses, until he thought the pursuit
was over.
On the following morning, as I was taking my
early stroll in the garden, the man again beset
my path, prostrating himself as before, with
every sign of abject terror in his face ; I tried
by signs to reassure him of his safety, and again
summoned my cook to my aid, who led him
away to his shed, apparently in a calmer frame of
mind.
I had scarcely returned to the house, however,
before I heard a great commotion in the yard,
and looking out, saw the unfortunate man, with
iLND THE WEST COAST OF APEICA. 201
a knife in his hand, cutting himself in every
direction, while all the servants were vainly at-
tempting to wrench it from his grasp ; he seemed
to have the strength and desperation of a mad-
man, but at length he was overpowered, though
not before he had inflicted on himself several
severe, though not mortal wounds.
How terrible must have been the fate he
dreaded from the hands of his own countrymen,
when he tried to destroy himself to escape
it!
Intercession was made to the native king of
Lagos in his behalf, who granted him a pardon,
and sent an escort to take him to a place of
safety.
I believe he was smuggled out of the town at
dead of night ; at all events I never heard of the
unhappy man again, or if he eluded the vengeance
of his pursurers. I rather doubted myself the
power of even the king to save him.
The native chiefs have a very poor opinion of
202 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
a woman's power of keeping a secret, and when
the Alake of Abbeokuta holds a war council, no
women are allowed outside their houses, an edict
being proclaimed to that effect on the preceding
day.
The native king of Lagos was a good tempered
easy going sort of man, much given to pomp
and show, but quite under Fnglish rule.
He lived in the native part of the town, in a
large house called a palace, and possessed a
hundred wives or so, and innumerable suits of
apparel. Visitors were always regaled with
champagne, whenever they went to see him,
and I have heard he kept a most luxurious
table.
His wives are all dressed in a particular shade
of blue cotton cloth, and when they walk abroad,
any man who chances to meet them, has to shade
his eyes as they pass, or get out of their way as
soon as possible.
I had once a good view of the king in his gala
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 203
costume. He came, with a large retinue, to pay
an official visit to my husband after the return
of the latter from a successful expedition, in April,
1861, against the King of Porto Novo, whose
country was a Yerj nest of slavers.
He arrived by water, and long before the first
canoe came in sight round the bend of the river,
we heard the din and crash of tums-tums, drums,
and other noisy and discordant instruments^
mingled with yells and shouts.
It was a pretty sight as canoe after canoe glided
down the broad shining stream, gorgeous with
many coloured umbrellas of the different chiefs.
Gold, crimson and purple flashed alternately
in the burning sun, the discordant sound becom-
ing louder and louder, and mingling strangely
with the shrieks and shouts of tlie excited popu-
lace on the shore.
At length the king landed, walking with ma-
jestic strides under a huge umbrella of some rich
material.
204 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
His dress consisted of a green, brocaded robe,
reaching below his knees, Turkish trousers, and
a perfect breast-plate of coral chains, hanging in
thick coils from throat to waist. Surmounting
all was a large plumed cocked hat, which looked
stranglj out of keeping with his bare heels and
oriental dress.
Behind him came a troop of chiefs, all the
principal ones having umbrellas held over their
heads by their attendants, but they evidently had
carefully abstained from outshining their king in
their attire.
Most of them were simply wrapped in snow-
white togas of very fine texture, flung gracefully
over the shoulder, and descending to the heels.
Their number, and their swift, panther-like
tread, gave me a sudden panic as I saw them
enter the door, and heard their naked footsteps
rushing up the stairs, and I ignominiously beat a
retreat into my own room, and locked the door
just as his majesty's green robe came in sight.
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 205
My room being just opposite the drawing-
room, and having a hT.rge key-hole, I was enabled
to have as good a view as if I had remained in
the verandah, and with a greater feeling of com-
fort to myself.
The reception room not being large enough to
hold the crowd that poured in, a number of white
robed chiefs squatted down the whole length of
the passage, some resting their backs against my
door, thus giving me a nearer view than they
imagined of their bronze faces and wild piercing
eyes.
My husband, with his interpreter by his side,
received the king at the door of the room, and
led him with great ceremony to the sofa, which
happened fortunately to be just opposite my
keyhole.
After an interchange of compliments, which
lasted about a quarter of an hour, as every-
thing had to be interpreted, the king rose,
salaamed profoundly, then rushed down the stairs
206 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
witli the same panther-like speed with which
he had ascended, his retinue flying after him
lielter skelter, like a troop of white-winged
birds.
I must confess a delightful feeling of relief came
over me as I unlocked my door and joined my
husband in the verandah, when I got finely
quizzed for my panic.
As the men in the canoes saw the king and
his retinue emerge from the house they recom-
menced their distracting music louder than ever,
and this continued until the winding of the
river bore them and their gay umbrellas out
of our sight.
On another occasion, my husband being absent
from home, I had to receive a deputation from
the King of Abbeokuta, who sent him a lai-ge
white native cloth in token of amity and
respect.
The deputation consisted of about half-a-dozen
head men, each wrapped in his vrhite toga, ac-
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFKICA. 207
companied by a civilised black man, in tall and
tightly-fitting clothes, who acted as their inter-
preter.
This man spoke such execrable English that I
was obliged to send for our own interpreter in
order to understand his jargon.
He told me, for instance, that the king, his
master, had sent a fine white clerh to my hus-
band as a token of his friendshij). I therefore
looked round at the group of swarthy visages
and wondered what had become of the white
clerk, when suddenly, at a given signal, the
piece of cloth was unfurled and exhibited.
It was of the size of a large bed coverlet, and
made of white cotton, beautifully interwoven with
a black scroll pattern.
After this had been duly admired, the ambas-
sadors crouched in a row along the passage, look-
ing like a set of stone effigies, so immoveable
were they in that strange posture.
Their wild, gleaming eyes were never taken off
A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
my face while the palaver was going on, but at
length tlie interpreter hinted that a glass of
spirits would not be unacceptable, so that it was
ordered, and each regaled himself with what
might be called a "stiff glass."
As they seemed inclined to stay longer than
I thought at all necessary, I rose, and put an end
to the interview, saying that I regretted I was
obliged to leave them.
They took the hint, and each giving me a pro-
found salaam, they gathered up their robes and
went their way, the talkative interpreter favour-
ing me at the last with a long speech, which was
utterly incomprehensible to me, but no doubt
was meant to be very complimentary.
« A black man in his white toga is an interest-
ing object, but clothed in a European coat he
loses at once his native dignity of air and becomes
vulgarised on the spot.
V
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 209
CHAPTER IV.
The variety of races to be met with in Lagos,
is very interesting to a stranger.
There is a large Mahometan Community that,
come principally from the north of Africa and are_
a fine set of men, with regular features, solemn
gleaming eyes, and most majestic bearing;
they always reminded me of bronze statues.
They all wear the toga, the turban, and-
Turkish trowser, and look additionally handsome-
contrasted with the negroes of the coast.
210 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
The tribes from the interior of the country
are also very superior to the latter in appearance,
though their hue is jet black.
Their costume is very picturesque and more
showy than that of the Mahometans, consisting
frequently of togas of leopard skins, and brilliant
turbans of many dyes.
They are very good horsemen, regarding a
saddle and bridle as superfluities; and I have
seen them manage the most fiery steed with
nothing but their naked heels and strong brawny
arms.
The only African women that I admired were
some from Tripoli, who had accompanied their
lords and masters right across the interior.
They had beautifully soft dark eyes, with a
timid pleading expression, sad to see ; they were
dressed a VArahe, and the lower part of their
faces was quite concealed by the usual band of
white linen.
The principal man of the party was a splendid
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 211
looking Moor, such a man as Othello might
have been, about middle age, with a grizzled
beard, and the features of a fine statue; he had
the most dignified face imaginable, and seemed
to weigh every word before he uttered it.
He seemed much interested when my husband
told him he had been to the Eed Sea, and asked
a great many questions about the canal across
the Isthmus. ■
The women never opened their lips, and seemed
to stand in great awe of their Othello. I tried
to interest them by presenting my little girl to
them, but they seemed too shy to take notice of
anything.
The lands of the King of Dahomey stretch
down as far as the harbour of Lagos, which
place he is always threatening to invade. We
saw on one occasion a chief who had just come
from his court, and he gave us a graphic account
of the wretch and his doings.
^I asked him, through the interpreter, if the
p 2
212 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA
Corps of Amazons was as brave and ferocious
as I had heard it described; his answer was
a prolonged "Whew — " and he dechired that
no man could stand against these female
warriors.
The system of talking through an interpreter
is very tedious, and I was forcibly struck by the
superior brevity of the English language over
the African, A short sentence from either of us
would take the interpreter several minutes to
repeat, and the chiefs answers, which appeared
to us interminable, were given in English in a
few words. This dreadful prolixity of the
languages in Africa makes a visit from any of
the chiefs a very tiresome affair, and one is
wearied out with listening to an appar-
ently endless flow of words, and surprised
and indignant to find how easily in English
the meaning could have been conveyed in a.
few terse sentences, But Africa is the very.,
land of palaver. 'The inhabitants, I suppose,
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 213
tiy to compensate themselves for their want of
books, by doing an immense deal of talking. •
Some of the chiefs from the interior were sur-
prised and delighted when they first saw my
little girl, never having met with a white child
before. Her golden hair and white skin drew
forth no end of ejaculations, and they seemed to
look upon her as something more than mortal.
A sad story is told of the disappearance of a
little child in one of the Dutch settlements on
the coast, a daughter, I believe, of one of the
officials.
The child was taking a walk with her nurse
in some rather lonely spot, when she was sur-
rounded and carried off by a party of natives,
and nothing was ever heard of her after fate. It
is supposed she was taken to the interior, where
the foot of the white man has never penetrated.
Whilst at Lagos I made the acquaintance of
the Rev. Mr. Crowther, the present Bishop of
Niger, and heard him preach an excellent sermon
214 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIKA
at the English Church. He seems a truly good
and clever man, and has translated a great portion
of the Bible into theYoi'raba language; a task of
great dijBBcultj, as the people had no written
language.
I was sorry to hear that a great many of these
valuable manuscripts, which had cost him years
of labour, have been destroyed by the great fire
which occurred in Lagos after I left the place.
The rainy season at Lagos the year 1 was there
was ushered in by a tremendous typhoon, a most
wonderful and beautiful thing to witness. We were
warned of its approach by the storm signal on the
west coast, a long streak of silvery whiteness seem-
ing to rest on the horizon. The sky became inky
black, and the sea was of the same murky hue,
making the crested waves gleam like snow.
I stood in the verandah watching the approach
of the wild wind, and was lost in awe and admir-
ation of the beautiful sight presented by the har-
bour. In a moment the wind seemed to burst
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 215
from above and lash the waves into fury. They
sped before the typhoon at lightning speed, in
a white line of foam, and the whole sheet of
water, before so dark and quiet, became violently
agitated.
I was so absorbed in the beauty of the spec-
tacle that I forgot how near the wind was upon ns,
when suddenly it clapped against the side of the
house with a rushing sound, indescribably grand,
and I found myself nearly blown oif the verandah.
I managed, however, to rush in at the open
window in time to escape its full fury, and heard
the windows being hastily shut all over the
house.
In less time than I have taken to describe it
the typhoon had come and gone up the river,
and a deluge of rain descended, which soon had
the effect of quieting the tumultuous sea.
Provisions are good and abundant in Lagos,
in comparison with what they are in some parts
216 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIEA
of the coast, "but beef is almost an unknown
luxury, and vegetables and fruit very scarce in
the dry season; poultry, however, is plentiful,
guinea-fowls especially, and the mutton, though
small, has a very fine flavour.
The native cooks make very good bread, using
the palm wine for leaven. The latter, when in a
state of fermentation, is much drunk by the
natives, and is, I have heard, a very intoxicating
beverage.
The natives live almost entirely upon the
cassada root, which is made into a thick gruel.
I used often to see our servants all seated round
a huge bowl of this stuff, on the ground, each
dipping in his spoon in his turn, and ap-
parently never tired day after day of the same
fare.
We were not at all troubled in our house by
insects, which surprised me greatly until I noticed
the quanties of lizards about the garden. The
AND THE WEST COAST OP AFRICA. 217
latter are beautiful, from tlieir gorgeous colours.
I have seen them of every shade of crimson, blue,
green, and yellow, and they were so tame that
they would scarcely move from my path as I
approached them. They are very useful crea-
tures, as they devour every species of insect, and
are perfectly harmless themselves, so I took
them under my especial protection.
After the typhoon, the rains commenced in
Lagos, but did not fairly set in till the end of
May. From that time till November, the pas-
sage from the hai'bour is a most dangerous one ;
many lives are lost each season in going to and
from the ships, and the offerings to the fetish
become very numerous.
I was obliged, however, to cross this terrible
bar in the month of June, when I returned to
England, but the Commander of the small gun-
boat in the harbour assm^ed me his vessel could
make the venture with perfect safety ; and hav-
ing offered to t^ke n^e outside^ I prefeiTed to
218 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
cross the breakers in her, to the certain risk of
an open boat.
On the 10th of June, I embarked with my
little girl and her nurse. The sun shone
brilliantly through the wild drifting clouds, and
we saw distinctly the long line of breakers
through which we must pass to reach the Mail
Steamer.
It was a time of intense anxiety as we neared
that angry bar, especially as the poor old gun-
boat refused to answer her helm, trembling and
shivering at each shock, and sometimes seeming
to stand still.
The people on board the Mail Steamer were
meanwhile watching us through their telescopes,
expecting every instant that the vessel would
be swallowed up in that sea of foam. Hope
had, indeed, faded from every face on deck, and
our doom seemed inevitable, when the little
vessel, as if guided by an Unseen Hand, more
powerful than man's, rushed with a sudden
AND THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 219
impetus into smooth water, and we were
safe.
The passage is so narrow mid-way, that the
slightest deviation from the course places the
ship in the greatest peril ; the breakers gleam
and rage on every side, and the waves seem
eager for their prey. The water also swarms
with sharks, so that even the best swimmer has
little chance of life in case of being ship-
wrecked.
Since Lagos has become a British possession,
I have heard that great improvements have been
made. The streets are widened, and many new
houses built ; but nothing can alter its deadly
climate, fit only for the black race to live in,
though not worse, I believe, than Sierra Leone,
and Cape Coast.
The curse bestowed on Ham seems to cling to
his country, fertile and beautiful as it is in many
parts, and wherever white men settle in it,
220 A GLIMPSE AT MADEIRA
there hangs perpetually the dark shadow of
death.
Tlie air is full of farewells to the dying and
mournings for the dead. The whole land rings
with tales of bloodshed, oppression, and wicked-
ness of every kind, and as long as the native
rulers are uncivilized and unchristianized, slavery
will never cease. The natives consider exchang-
ing men for goods a. perfectly fair sort of barter,
and in war the victorious party make slaves of
their prisoners as a legitimate part of their
success. The love of enslaving his fellow beings
is also so innate in man, that even freed
slaves, if they get on in this world, spend their
first spare money in buying a slave. Though
theexportation of these unhappy beings may be
checked by the continued efforts of other
countries, slavery will, I fear, still exist in
Africa in a worse form than was ever known in
America or in the West Indies, until the civiliz-
AND THE WEST COAST OF APEICA. 221
ing influence of Christianity has extended itself
over those melancholy tracts of land, where life
seems, at the best, to be so sternly devoid of that
grace which some would call poetry, but which
is, in truth, the higher form of such happiness
as the Creator intended for His people on
earth.
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son." — Athenceum.
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