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RECOLLECTIONS 


•OF    A 


SLEEPING  CAR  PORTER. 


RECOLLECTIONS 


■OF  A- 


SLEEPING  CAR  PORTER. 


By  jack   THORNE.    /U.^>u^. 
!/ 

Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  j^ear  1892^1  n  the  OfHce       ^TM 
of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington.   D.   C. 


/^-^t^^vvA'V 


//cs-zy 


JERSEY   CITY:  ^ 

DOAN   &   PILSON,  BOOK   AND  JOB  PRINTEKS,   54   MONTGOMERY  STREET,  ^     ^^ 

1892. 


PS^^^'.R^ 


u^^^^ 

\^^^ 


(^\A*/^ 

To  my  esteemed  friend, 

ISS  pJ'ARY  g§ASHINGTON   pfoWE, 

is  this  mile  volume  dedicated. 


lav.    ^,»«.,<.,»^4f* 


PREFACE. 


I  hope  that  the  title  of  this  little  volume  Avill 
not  cause  the  reader  to  look  for  an  arraignment  of 
employee  against  employer,  or  that  there  is  one  word 
written  here  with  the  intention  of  in  any  way  bringing 
into  question  the  unsullied  reputation  of  the  great 
corporation,  in  whose  employ  the  writer  now  is. 

These  are  a  few  of  the  many  things  seen  and  ex- 
perienced by  a  sleeping-car  porter.  There  are,  no 
doubt,  many  things  which  may  not  please  the  reader; 
nevertheless,  rest  assured  there  is  nothing  said  that 
is  among  the  impossible. 

The  following  will  show  that  while  the  porter  is 
dusting  and  wiping  here  and  there,  placing  a  pillow 
under  the  head  of  this  one,  and  doing  some  similar 
favor  for  that  one,  a  word  spoken  carelessly,  and  soon 
forgotten  by  the  passenger,  affords  abundant  food  for 
thought  for  the  porter. 

A  little  grain  of  wheat  thrown  carelessly  upon  the 
ground  may  often  spring  up  and  produce  an  hundred 
fold. 


Bead  it  to  the  end.  Perhaps  your  experience 
may  not  be  unlike  mine.  Then,  of  course,  you  will 
appreciate,  sympathize  with,  and  perhaps  be  enter- 
tained by  this*  little  book. 

If  your  experience   has  not  been  similar,  there 

may  be  imparted  some  information. 

But  if  this  little  volume  fails  to  interest,  instruct, 
amuse,  or  entertain  you,  do  not  let  your  tongue  wag 

so  as  to  prejudice  others,  but  pass  it  to  the  next. 

The  Author. 


?¥- 


<f> 


becolLlEctioks  of  a 

Sleeping  Car  Porter. 


CHAPTER   I. 

^  The  early  Summer  of  1888  found  me  doing 
service  at  the  Eossmore  (now  Metropole)  Hotel,  corner 
Forty-second  street  and  Broadway,  New  York  City. 

My  life  up  to  this  period  had  been  quite  an  event- 
ful one;  for  I  had  been  almost  a  year  in  this  great  city, 
drifting  from  place  to  place,  looking  for  a  permanent 
situation,    which  I   found  not.     Those   who  were  in 
that  section  of  the  country  during  the  Spring  of  that 
year  can  imagine  how  a  homeless  wanderer  suffered, 
and  though  at  the  time  of  which  I  write,  I  was  in  a 
fair  paying  position,  I  had  become  homesick.     I  had 
begun  to  feel  as  though  I  would  like  to  gaze  again 
into  the  eyes  of  that  dearest  and  best  of  all  women 
—my   wife — of  whom  I  had  taken  leave  so  uncere- 
moniously.    Turn  which  way  I  would,  the  vision  of 
the  old,  humble  home  was  ever  before  my  gaze,  and 
that  loving  hand  seemed  to  beckon,  beckon,  beckon. 
"For  we  watch  and  we  wait, 
And  we  stand  at  the  gate, 
While  the  shadows  are  piled, 
O  !  Prodigal  child!  Come  home." 


6 

Go  I  must.  Who  could  resist  the  entreaty  ?  But 
how  ?  Penniless  ?  I  was  indeed  penniless,  for  though 
I  had  been  in  this  flourishing  city  almost  a  year,  my 
bank  account  was  exceedingly  small;  too  small  to  think 
of  paying  my  fare  home  and  back  again,  and -leave  a 
small  sum  for  the  little  wdfe  beside. 

''  Why  not  join  the  Pullman  service  and  then 
work  your  way  home  ?"  said  Will  Avery,  a  young  man 
for  whom  I  had  a  warm  regard,  as  we  stood  in  the 
great  dining  room,  one  morning.  "  I  am  sure  you  can 
get  on  at  this  season." 

''  I  have  tried  once,"  I  said,  still  remembering 
the  pitying  look,  of  the  man  in  charge,  as  he  slowly 
shook  his  head. 

**But  you  did  not  apply  at  the  right  season,  and 
perhaps  not  in  proper  form,"  persisted  my  friend. 
"A  person  might  apply  till  doomsday  and  still  be 
unsuccessful,"  said  he. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  way  he  posted  me,  wind- 
ing up  by  offering  to  wager  a  month's  pay  that  I  would 
be  at  work  in  less  than  three  weeks'  time. 

A  few  mornings  afterward  and  I  was  again  in  the 
Pullman  office,  with  brighter  hopes. 

"  Can  you  furnish  yourself  with  a  uniform  ?  "  asked 
the  chief  clerk,  as  I  laid  my  application  on  his  desk. 
Answering  in  the  affirmative,  I  was  given  an  order  on 
the  tailor.  Employed!  It  seemed  so,  as  I  was  on  my 
way  to  have  a  uniform  made. 

Almost  every  one  is  familiar  with  a  porter's  outfit ; 
so  why  describe  it?  But  not  every  one  is  familiar 
with  his  doings  within  his  car.     I'll  confess  that  his 


inviting  appearance  while  posing  in  front  of  liis  car 
has  a  tendency  to  deceive. 

If  the  reader  has  ever  been  in  a  rolling  mill  and 
seen  the  great  drops  of  sweat  trickling  down  the  faces 
of  the  operators  as  they  trudged  with  great  bars  of 
iron  and  steel,  he  has  an  idea  of  the  appearance  of 
the  Pullman  porter  when  performing  his  most  import- 
ant duty.  A  novice  at  the  work  will  perspire  freeW 
in  January.  I  made  my  first  trip  in  June;  so  draw 
conclusions. 


CHAPTEE  II. 

Uniform  completed,  I  reported  for  duty,  expect- 
ing to  be  shown  around  and  instructed  in  the  various 
ways  concerning  the  work  before  going  on  the  road. 
But  to  my  disappointment,  they  were  short  of  men, 
and  the  following  morning  found  me  whirling  toward 
Memphis,  Tennessee,  partner  of  one  of  the  laziest 
porters  that  ever  walked  the  floor  of  any  car.  I  have 
not  seen  his  equal  for  laziness. 

No  man  need  think  that  he  can  disguise  the  fact 
that  he  is  inexperienced.  The  greenest  passenger  will 
discover  that. 

'-  New  man,  ain't  you,  John?"  asked  a  kindly-faced 
old  man,  as  he  noticed  me  trying  to  get  the  head-board 
in  the  wrong  way. 

"  Turn  it  the  other  way.     There,  that's  right." 

This  route  to  Memphis  was  by  way  of  the 
Shenandoah  Valley,  of  Virginia. 

What  tongue  can  describe  the  loveliness  of  its 
scenery ! 

As  far  as  the  eye  can  penetrate,  the  lofty  peaks 
of  the  Blue  Ridge,  covered  with  verdure,  appear  like 
great  waves  of  living  green,  rolling  onward  till  they 
seem  to.blend  into  the  horizon. 

'*  Oh  the  fields  of  fair  Juue 
Have  no  lack  of  sweet  flowers," 


9 

This  valley  is  strewn  with  blossoms  in  Summer. 
But  I  had  no  time  to  enjoy  its  magnificence  on  this 
trip.  My  time  was  fully  occupied  filling  and  cleaning 
the  lamps,  dusting  the  window  sills,  assisting  passen- 
gers on  and  off  the  car,  and  listening  to  the  conductor 
and  waiters'  lectures  as  they  sat  in  their  seats  and 
saw  me  attempt  it  all. 

The  most  difficult  duty  of  the  day  was  taking 
down,  refilling  and  cleaning  the  lamps  and  replacing 
them  while  the  train  was  in  motion  at  the  rate  of 
thirty  miles  an  hour  over  a  crooked  track. 

The  passengers  looked  on  in  sympathy  and  pity, 

and  this  had  a  tendency  to   make  the  task  seem  less 

irksome.     And  the  ladies' 

"  Soft  eyes  did  on  me  gaze, 
Burning,  yet  tender." 

as  I  descended  the  ladder,  fearful  lest  I  spill  the  oil 

on  their  dresses.     This  was,  indeed,  a  tough  trip.     I 

trembled  at  the  thought  of  making  down  a  bed,  and 

that  trifling  individual,  the  waiter,  made  one  section 

for  my  instruction,  and  retired,!  ordering  me  to  call 

him  at  six  o'clock. 

On  our  arrival  at  Jersey  City  at  the  conclusion  of 
this,  my  first  trip,  the  clerk  nearly  took  my  breath 
by  ^assigning  me  to  the  same  route,  with  the  same  porter 
and  conductor. 

I  was  as  mad  as  a  "  March  hare,"  and  somewhat 
discouraged,  yet  I  determined  to  succeed. 

I  returned  from  this  trip  more  fatigued  and  des- 
pondent than  ever,  and  with  a  full  determination  to  give 
up  the  whole  business.  But  I  was  destined  to  see 
more  of  the  checkered  life  of  a  car  service  man. 


CHAPTEE   III 

By  request  I  was  sent  to  Florida  by,  way  of  tlie 
Atlantic  Coast  Line,  and  this  change  threw  me  into 
contact  with  a  different  set  of  men., — good  and  consid- 
erate conductors  and  waiters.  This  furnished  the 
long-wished-for  opportunity  of  visiting  the  dear  old 
home,  if  only  for  a  short  while.  Home  !  "Who  is  elo- 
quent enough  to  express  its  true  meaning  ! 

Leaving  New  York  on  the  9:15  evening  train,  we 
arrived  at  Washington  the  following  morning,  and  at 
half-past  eleven  o*clock  were  speeding  southward  like 
an  arrow  to  its  mark. 

Homeward  bound  !  How  my  heart  leaped  as  the 
distance  between  me  and  loved  ones  lessened.  With- 
in those  few  hours  that  intervened  it  seemed  that  I 
lived  the  past  days  of  my  life  over  again.  Days  of 
childhood  came  "trooping  up  the  misty  ways."  My 
wife  stood  before  me,  clothed  in  the  innocence  of 
childhood,  with  not  a  trace  of  sorrow  or  care  upon 
her  pure  brow.  I  heard  the  clang  of  the  school  bell, 
and  shouted  with  the  children  at  play. 

I  was  awakened  from  my  dream  by  the  long,  shrill 
whistle  of  the  engine,  announcing  some  station,  and 
looking  out,  the  familiar  scenes  met  my  gaze,  for  in 
truth  /  luas  at  home.  The  train  thundered  into  the  de- 
pot, and  in  a  few  moments  I  was  face  to  face  with  my 
wife,  for  there  she  stood  awaiting  me.     I  pressed  her 


11 

to  my  bosom  and  kissed  away  the  burning  tears  of 

joy. 

Short,  sweet  bliss !  Fain  would  I  have  lingered, 
but  I  could  not.  My  time  was  limited ;  I  could  only 
hold  her  a  short  while,  ask  a  few  questions  and  leave 
her. 

Where  is  she  now,  do  you  ask?  I  have  taken 
her  long  ago  from  her  home  of  flowers  to  a  land  of 
snow  and  ice^  and  there  in  a  downy  nest  she  awaits 
my  coming. 

For  every  two,  three  or  five  days,  I  stand  face  to 
face  with  my  wife. 


CHAPTEE     IV. 

Many  a  porter  has  joiued  this  great  company  more 
for  the  opportunity  of  shifting  from  place  to  place 
and  seeing  with  the  naked  eye  the  different  portions 
of  country  so  often  read  of,  than  for  any  other  pur- 
pose. 

While  this  was  not  my  chief  object,  those  things 
have  not  been  passed  by  unheeded. 

I  have  stood  upon  the  shores  of  the  Great  Lakes^ 
gazed  upon  the  placid  waters  of  the  Gulf,  thrown  peb- 
bles upon  the  bosom  of  the  Mississippi,  gathered 
fruit  from  the  orange  trees  of  Florida,  and  as  the  train 
moved  onward,  taken  in  with  the  eye  interesting  por- 
tions of  the  country  round  about. 

This  business  gives  the  employee  not  only  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  country,  but  of  coming  in 
contact  with  the  people,  who  differ  very  materially. 
This  position  makes  one  an  expert  in  the  study  of 
characters. 

An  experienced  porter  can  often  look  his  passen- 
gers over,  and  very  readily  tell  whether  he  or  she  is 
Northerner,  Southerner,  Easterner  or  Westerner,  ill- 
bred  or  well-bred.  But  it  is  not  so  easy  to  tell  how 
large  a  tip  an  individual  will  give.  Therefore,  the  good 
porter  will  treat  all  passengers  civilly,  lest  he  mistake 
an  angel  for  a  devil.  I  had  a  Mississippian  to  give 
me  twenty-five  cents  for  polishing   his  and  liis  son's 


13 

boots  and  warming  the  baby's  milk  over  night.  Some 
require  little  attention,  while  others  require  much,  and 
in  my  opinion  the  most  tedious  and  yet  the  most 
uncivil  are  people  of  the  South  and  Southwest,  where 
there  is  such  limited  consideration  of  the  black  citizen- 
These  people  are  the  embodiment  of  the  old  doctrine, 
'^A  negro  has  no  rights  that  a  lohite  man  is  bound  to  re- 
spect:' It  is  "  Major,"  "  General,"  "  Colonel,"  if  you 
please,  with  a  twitch  of  the  cap  and  duck  of  the  head. 
And  if  there  is  a  dime  about  his  august  person,  the 
porter  will  likely  get  it. 

Passengers  boarding  trains  going  to  or  from  New 
York,  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg  or  Chicago,  are  the  most 
liberal  and  polished  of  Pullman  patrons  ;  those  from 
Pittsburg  taking  the  lead.  The  weary  and  dust-cov- 
ered porter,  journeying  eastward  from  St.  Louis  or 
cities  further  West,  looks  with  longing  eyes  toward  this, 
the  great  business  centre  andiron  manufacturing  city. 
No  car  goes  eastward  from  this  point  without  a  fair 
load  of  good  passengers,  whose  destination  is  Philadel- 
phia or  New  York.  Even  the  ladies  find  their  pocket- 
books,  and  stand  forth,  money  in  hand,  to  be  brushed, 
at  the  end  of  their  trip.  Two-thirds  of  all  passengers 
boarding  trains  at  New  York  or  Philadelphia  for  the 
West,  or  at  Chicago,  Cincinnati  or  St.  Louis  for  the 
East,  get  off  at  Pittsburg.  Unlike  people  from  the 
South  or  Southwest,  it  takes  but  little  ceremony  on  the 
part  of  the  car-service  men  to  please  them,  and  they 
know  and  appreciate  good  service.  Of  course  all 
rules  have  their  exceptions. 

The    most  polite  and  polished    individual    on    a 


14 

Pullman  car  is  a  Bostonian.  His  language  is  so  per- 
fect and  precise,  and  he  can  find  fault  with  such  a 
flow  of  eloquence,  that  would  do  credit  to  a  Cicero. 
Black  his  boots  over  night,  brush  him  in  the  morning, 
carry  out  his  luggage,  and  he  will "  thank  you  kindly," 
as  though  he  knew  that  "  thank  you  "  were  sufficient 
to  support  one's  family.  I  have  had  as  many  as 
twenty  of  them  to  pass  out  and  wish  me  a  '*  Good 
day,"  as  though  I  did  not  know  it. 

Then  there  are  passengers  who  attract  consider- 
able interest  and  comment,  such  as  Presidents,  Gover- 
nors, Senators,  and  the  foreign  nobility.  But  the 
most  interesting  individual  that  enters  a  sleeping  car 
is  the  colored  passenger.  As  this  person  enters  the 
car  and  passes  to  his  seat,  the  hum  of  conversation  is 
hushed,  and  all  eyes  turn  and  stare  as  though  some- 
thing unheard-of  had  happened.  If  this  passenger 
be  a  lady,  the  attention  is  the  more  marked.  Every 
move  or  turn  of  the  head  is  noted  with  close  scrutiny. 

When  Mr.  Wilson,  Surveyor-General  of  Louisiana, 
was  on  his  way  from  Washington  to  New  Orleans,  in 
company  with  his  little  daughter,  two  women  in  the 
opposite  section  allowed  their  curiosity  to  make  them 
ridiculous.  For,  though  they  could  readily  tell  that 
he  was  a  colored  man,  the  child  puzzled  them.  So 
they  gazed  and  whispered  and  craned  their  necks  till 
the  train  reached  Salisbury,  North  Carolina,  when 
Mr.  Wilson  changed  cars  for  New  Orleans. 

An  old  gentleman  boarded  the  west-bound  train 
one  afternoon  in  Jersey  City,  in  company  with  a  young 
lady,  apparently  about  twenty-two.    "  What  a  beauty !" 


15 

said  the  porter  next  to  me.  *' Father  and  daughter," 
said  I.  They  took  passage  on  niy  car,  and  I  soon 
learned  that  they  were  husband  and  wife,  returning  to 
their  home  in  Nashville,  Tennessee,  from  a  few  weeks' 
stay  in  New  York  City.  The  lady  was  exceedingly 
handsome,  tall,  lithe  of  figure,  dignified  in  bearing, 
with  a  grace  of  manner  a  princess  might  covet.  Her 
face  was  dark  and  well  proportioned,  eyes  black  and 
round,  with  silken  lashes,  hands  small  and  aristocratic. 
As  this  couple  passed  through  the  train  to  the  dining 
car,  eyes  fastened  upon  books  and  papers  turned  to 
look,  not  on  them,  but  upon  her,  I  looked  upon  the 
gentleman,  I  fear,  a  little  enviously,  for  surely  he  had 
won  a  treasure.  As  they  were  with  us  more  than 
seven  hundred  miles,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  con- 
versing with  them,  which  I  did  not  fail  to  improve. 
At  Cincinnati  we  shook  hands  and  parted.  But  in 
my  thoughts  I  followed  them  till  I  sat  with  them  in 
their  lovely  home  in  Nashville.  It  is  ever  thus  with 
the  porter.  He  flits  from  city  to  city,  and  from  State 
to  State.  He  meets  with  and  parts  friendly  with 
strangers.  With  some  he  wishes  to  linger,  but  time 
will  not  permit.  Upon  one  face,  perhaps,  among  hun- 
dreds, his  memory  turns.  One  voice,  though  blended 
with  others,  rings  on  and  on  like  distant  chimes  of 
bells.  He  feels  the  pressure  of  one  hand  longer  than 
that  of  others,  when  good-byes  are  said  for  the  first 
and  last  time.  I  have  sat  in  church,  book  in  hand, 
in  St.  Louis,  on  Sunday,  and  roamed  the  noisy  streets 
of  Chicago  the  next.  In  this  checkered  life  of 
the    porter,    there    are    many    things     that    suggest 


16 

the  humorous  as  well  as  the   tragic  and   ridiculous. 

First  on  this  roll  is  the  kicker,  (and  he  is  legion), 
who  stalks  into  the  car  with  the  air  of  one  who  knows 
it  all,  throws  his  luggage  into  another  section,  and 
looks  around  for  something  of  which  to  complain. 
Either  the  car  is  too  hot  or  too  cold,  or  the  crew  is 
incompetent.  On  retiring,  he  gives  orders  that  he  be 
called  in  the  morning  just  in  time,  not  too  early  or 
too  late,  but  just  time  enough  to  finish  his  toilet  and 
step  off  as  the  train  slows  up,  and  the  porter  is  about 
to  brush  off  and  collect. 

Then  there  is  the  talkative  passenger,who  delights 
to  bore  the  porter.  "Do  you  often  have  accidents? 
Would  a  passenger  be  safe  in  the  sleeper  ?  "Where  do 
we  breakfast  ?  How  many  minutes  are  given  ?  Do  they 
furnish  a  good  meal?     How  much  is  charged?"  etc. 

Going  into  Chicago  one  morning  a  Jew  approached 
me  and  said,  "I  say,  porter,  how  far  you  go?"  "To 
Chicago,  sir."  "  Tou  don'd  go  no  fudder?  "  "No,  sir." 
"  Gid  a  good  breakfast  in  Chicago  ?"  "  Yes  sir."  "  Good 
breakfas',  eh?"  "Tes  sir."  "How  long  you  stob  in 
Chicago?"  "  Until  night,  sir."  To-nighd,  eh?  "Tou 
don'd  ged  much  sleep,  do  you,  porder?"  "No,  sir." 
With  this  he  let  me  pass.  Jews  are  diligent  seekers 
after  information,  but  they  seldom  forget  the  porter. 

The  ignorant  passenger — one  who  is  not  in  the 
habit  of  taking  Pullman  car  accommodations,  is  more 
amusing  than  troublesome.  Leaving  New  Orleans 
one  night,  a  tall  Mississippian,  under  a  slouch  hat, 
his  trousers  stuffed  into  his  boots,  entered  the  car  and 
bought  a  berth.     Evidently  he  had  never  been  in  one 


17 

before,  for  he  sat  in  his  seat  and  gazed  stupidly  about, 
like  one  out  of  his  sphere.  When  the  time  for  retir- 
ing came,  and  his  bed  had  been  made,  he  turned  to  the 
porter  and  said,  ''Look  here,  how  do  you  shuck  yer 
duds  to  git  in  them  things  ?"  Without  waiting  for  a 
reply,  he  arose  and  bolted  for  the  door.  He  was  gone 
about  ten  minutes,  when  the  door  suddenly  opened 
and  a  voice  said,  ''Look  out,  ye  uns  in  dar,  for  Ise  a 
comin'."  It  was  the  man  from  Mississippi.  He  had 
gone  on  the  platform  to  disrobe,  and  with  his  pants 
in  one  hand  and  his  boots  in  the  other,  made  a  rush 
for  his  bed,  poked  his  head  out,  shook  it  knowingly  at 
the  astonished  passengers,  and  said,  "  Ole  Mississippi's 
slow  'bout  gitting  thar,  but  she  gitsthar  jis  the  same." 


CHAPTEE  V. 

Standing  in  front  of  my  car  one  night  at  Savannah, 
Georgia,  a  passenger  from  the  coach  approached  me 
and  said,  "  I  say,  Uncle,  is  that  what  ye  call  a  sleepin' 
kyar?"  "Yes,"  said  I.  "Wall,  hit  is  alius  bin  a  puzzle 
ter  me  how  ye  make  them  bunks  inthar." 

I  invited  him  in  and  let  down  a  berth  before  his 
astonished  eyes,  and  endeavoured  to  show  him  the 
"  modus  operandi,"  "Wal,  I  be  dast,"  said  he,  "  If 
my  Sal  could  see  that  she'd  jis  die  wid  de  laf.  Thankee 
Uncle,"  and  with  that  he  passed  out. 

We  had  slowed  up  at  Morristown,  Tennessee? 
one  morning,  when  an  old  gentlemen  and  his  wife 
started  to  board  the  sleeper.  Knowing  that  the 
sleeper  is  often  taken  for  the  "  Fuss  class"  on  the 
East  Tennessee  Eoad,  I  said  "  Sleeping  car,  sir  ?"  He 
turned  to  his  wife  and  said,  "  What'd  he  say  ?"  "  I 
dunno;  what'd  ye  say,  Mister  ?  "  "  This  is  a  sleeping 
car;  do  you  wish  to  ride?"  "  Oh,  no;  I  don't  want  no 
sleeping  kyar,"  said  he,  "  I've  got  a  fuss  class  ticket 
here,  and  I'm  going  to  ride  fuss  class,"  "  That's  your 
car,"  said  I,  pointing  to  the  coach. 

Leaving  Altoona,  Pa.,  early  one  morning,  I  passed 
to  the  rear  or  ladies'  end  of  the  car,  to  look  after 
the  fire.  And  there,  with  his  hands  crossed  behind 
him,  with  the  dignified  air  of  a  "  Dead  Head,"  stood  a 
tramp.    "  What  are  you  doing  here  ?  "  I  asked.    "Look- 


19 


ing  over  the  road,"  he  answered,  without  turning  his 
head.  ''  What  can  you  see  on  the  road  at  night  ?  " 
*'  De  lights,  of  course,"  said  he.  "  These  fellers  have 
not  been  attending  to  duty  of  late  at  these  signal  tow- 
ers, and  I  thought  I'd  see  if  I  could  catch  'em  nappin'." 
''Oh,  come  off!"  said  I,  laying  my  hand  upon  his 
shoulder.  "You  want  to  get  down."  '' Wal,  ye  see, 
pard,  "  said  he,  "  I  got  tired  ridin'  the  flats  and  trucks, 
yer  know,  and  thought  I'd  try  fuss  class  fer  a  spell. 
But  I  think  I'll  change  here.  This  car  has  a  flat 
wheel."  And  as  the  train  slowed  up  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  he  got  down. 

Then  there  are  sudden  partings,  such  as  press 
the  life  from  out  of  young  hearts  (old  ones,  also)  and 
sighs  which  may  not  here  be  repeated. 

We  can  never  tell  who  is  going  until  the  train  is 
about  ready  to  start.  Mother,  father,  sister,  brother, 
friends,  all  gather  around  the  departing  one,  and  with 
kisses,  tears  and  sobs  on  the  part  of  the  women,  and 
hearty  handshakes  of  the  men,  the  train  moves  out, 

''Write,  write,  write; don't  fail."  "  Porter,  look  after 
my  wife."  "  Porter,  look  after  my  mother  and  see  that 
she  gets  every  attention,"  is  often  said.  See  the  bride 
as  she  blushes  beneath  the  shower  of  rice  thrown  by 
loved  ones  as  the  train  moves  out. 

Then,  there  is  the  rollicking  school-girl,  the  calm 
and  sedate  priest,  the  scheming  lawyer,  the  dignified 
politician.  All  go  to  make  up  the  surging  mass  of  hu- 
manity, that  lay  calmly  down  to  sleep  beneath  the 
watchful  eye  of  the  porter. 

Just  before  the  south-bound  train  No.  23  pulled 


20 

out  of  the  Pennsylvania  Station  in  Jersey  City,  one 
night,  a  lady  passenger  approached  me  and  said  : 
''  Porter,  I  am  traveling  alone.  Help  me  to  look  after 
my  child.  In  plain  words,  take  care  of  us,  and  you 
shall  be  rewarded."  I  promised,  but  I  tell  you  what, 
she  and  that  baby  led  me  a  mighty  chase  all  the  next 
day,  and  part  of  another. 

"I  put  myself  in  your  hands,"  she  said  in  starting; 
and  she  did  it  to  the  letter.  I  fixed  -the  milk,  buttoned 
on  the  little  shoes,  and,  in  fact,  was  general-in-chief  of 
the  nursery.  Why,  she  would  go  to  sleep  and  leave 
the  little  fellow  for  me  to  follow  his  tottering  foot- 
steps, from  one  end  of  the  car  to  the  other.  Hard 
job,  but  I  had  sworn.  At  Savannah,  Ga.,  she  left  the 
car,  for  she  was  at  home.  And  oh,  it  was  a  happy  part- 
ing. I  received  my  *'  tip  "  with  uncovered  head,  and 
wished  her  long  life.  During  the  Winter  season,  hosts 
of  care-worn  souls  speed  southward,  some  seeking 
rest  and  recreation,  but  the  majority  seeking — health. 

It  is  either  wife  or  husband,  mother,  sister  or 
son,  whose  hacking  cough  and  sunken  eyes  bespeak 
the  anguish  of  the  sufferer. 

I  saw  a  mother  hastening  to  her  son,  who  had 
written  :  "  If  you  were  with  me,  I  think  I'd  get  better." 
A  few  trips  afterward,  a  rude  box  was  placed  in  the 
baggage  car  of  the  north-bound  train,  and  the  mother 
with  sadly  bowed  head,  approached  the  car.  The  box 
told  the  story.  The  son  was  "better,"  for  he  had 
found  the  Summer  of  eternal  rest.  So  it  is  ;  some  re- 
turn improved,  others  in  their  coffins. 

"  Yet  still  she's  weeping, 
Her  lone  watch  keeping." 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Going  south  by  the  way  of  the  Atlantic  Coast 
Line,  the  route  passes  through  several  States,  the 
scenery  of  which  is  most  beautiful  and  inte;:-esting. 
But  nothing  shows  up  to  amuse  the  passenger  until 
the  Carolina  border  is  reached. 

Passing  through  the  Carolinas,  the  trains  are  be- 
sieged at  every  station  by  rough-looking  youngsters, 
who  are  willing  to  cut  up  most  any  kind  of  caper  for 
a  nickel,  dime  or  penny. 

''  Stand  on  me  head  for  a  cint,  boss."  "  Throw 
out  a  nickel  for  a  scramblance,  boss."  Or,  at  a  given 
signal,  one  or  two  of  them  will  ''  stand  on  me  head," 
their  feet  spread  upward  like  well-smoked  North 
Carolina  hams. 

At  Charleston,  the  climax  is  reached.  Here  the 
train  is  besieged  by  a  host  of  rough-looking  mokes, 
armed  with  old  tambourines,  mouth  organs,  etc.,  with 
"  Hallelujah  chorus "  thrown  in.  For  fully  twenty 
minutes,  they  make  the  day  hideous,  while  grease-be- 
smeared mothers  stand  in  the  background  and  shake 
with  delight. 

Unlike  those  further  North,  who  are  always  ready 
to  "  Stand  on  me  head  for  a  cint,"  these  are  willing  to 
''  Sing  one  song  for  yer,  boss,  '  Annie  Eooney  dress  so 
fine,'  '  Pull  fur  de  sho,'  "  etc.,  while  all  eyes  are  fastened 
upon  the   audience,  ready   to  pounce  upon  the   coin 


22 

when  it  drops.  Often  the  leader  of  the  chorus  brings 
the  song  to  a  sudden  termination  by  bounding  into  the 
air,  eager  to  get  the  money  before  it  touches  the 
ground.  Strange  to  say,  that  after  leaving  the  Caro- 
lina border,  not  a  single  boy  shows  up  to  make  faces^ 
or  dance,  etc. 

The  only  remaining  feature  is  the  tendency  of 
the  people  to  gaze  at  the  passing  train.  And  this  is 
the  case  everywhere.  It  matters  not  how  often  a  train 
passes,  all  work  in  the  house,  in  the  office,  in  the  field ^ 
in  the  workshop  ceases,  and  all  hands  rush  out.  The 
housewife  forgets  her  cares  ;  the  idle  girl  her  novel ; 
the  cook  her  kettles  and  pots.  And  old  and  young 
alike  will  put  on  their  best  looks.  The  maiden,  if 
there  is  time,  will  stop  and  refix  her  hair  and  put  on 
some  attractive  little  wrap  or  shawl.  The  old  dame 
will  readjust  her  spectacles.  The  kitchen  maid  will 
roll  down  her  sleeves  and  bring  her  snuff  brush  into  a 
more  prominent  position,  while  often  the  mistress 
holds  hers  in  her  hand,  as  though  in  the  act  of  "  dip- 
ping." The  dog  bristles  up  and  look  wise.  Every- 
body gets  to  the  front  and  poses  as  if  expecting  to  be 
photographed. 

Going  West  and  Northwest  there  is  more  to  in- 
terest and  instruct  the  observer. 

Between  Philadelphia  and  Harrisburg,  on  the 
great  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  the  most  beautiful 
scenery  presents  itself.  Here  the  wealthy  Philadel- 
phian  has  built  his  magnificent  retreat.  Cottages  of 
ancient  and  modern  architecture,  built  of  brick,  wood, 
or  stone,  surrounded  by  well  kept  lawns,  present  a 
picture  simply  dazzling. 


23 

This  stone,  quarried  in  the  State  of  Pennsylvania, 
is  of  a  lovely  bluish  tint,  giving  the  buildings  a  rare 
and  rich  appearance. 

Leaving  Harrisburg  behind  us,  we  plunge  into  the 
Alleghany  Mountains.  The  lofty  peaks,  like  sentinels, 
look  down  upon  the  trains.  ''Where  is  the  Horseshoe 
Bend?"  is  often  asked. 

About  fourteen  miles  west  of  Altoona,  we  come 
into  this  famous  curve,  which  is  just  the  shape  of  a 
great  horseshoe.  Rounding  this  curve,  the  train 
climbs  upward  until  from  near  the  top  of  the  mount- 
ain we  see, 

"  The  awful  ^loom  beneath  us, 
Like  a  pathway  down  to  hell." 

Nearing  Pittsburg,  we  pass  through  a  portion  of 
the  mining  regions  of  Pennslyvania,  where  the  fire  and 
smoke  from  coke  ovens,  "  ascendeth  upward,  day  and 
night.  " 

"Pittsburg!  Twenty  minutes !  Out  this  way."  We 
have  reached  the  great  smoky  city,  with  its  iron  mills 
and  natural  gas. 

After  a  pause  of  twenty  minutes  for  refreshments, 
the  train  moves  on,  through  tunnels  and  over  moun- 
tains, until  we  gaze  upon  the  wide  extended  plains  of 
Ohio,  the  richest  farming  State  in  the  Union.  .Passing 
through  Indiana,  we  find  the  same  level  country.  And 
when  the  border  of  Illinois  is  reached,  we  are  in  the 
Western  Metropolis,  Chicago.  Here  the  porter  bids 
adieu  to  his  passengers  and  turns  his  face  Eastward. 

But  he  fain  would  linger  here.     Stroll,  perhaps, 


24 

toward  Lincoln  Park,  and  gaze  upon  the  blue  waters 
of  Lake  Michigan,  or  visit  some  of  the  many  places  of 
amusement  or  entertainment  this  magic  city  aftbrds. 
Unlike  New  York,  Chicago  opens  many  avenues  of  ad- 
vancement to  the  colored  citizen.  He  is  not  shut  out 
of  the  fine  hotels  and  cafes  as  being  unfit  for  service, 
for  most  of  the  leading  hotels  employ  colored  help. 
He  has  a  hand  in  many  things  that  the  average  'New 
Yorker  would  think  too  good  for  him.  He  is  police- 
man, detective,  mail  carrier,  clerk,  merchant,  news- 
dealer or  fireman.  It  would  do  one  good  to  see  the 
laddies  respond  to  the  call  of  fire.  Black  men  own 
saloons  and  restaurants,  the  fixtures  and  furniture 
alone  costing  hundreds  of  dollars.  No  man  need  say 
that  he  can  not  get  a  good  sirloin  or  porterhouse  steak, 
properly  served,  without  going  to  a  white  man's  cafe. 
The  black  citizen  has  a  chance  to  do  work  here 
that  in  New  York  would  be  given  to  the  Italian  or  the 
''  Turk.  " 


CHAPTEE  VII. 

Speaking  again  of  beautiful  scenery,  I  would  say 
that  next  to  Shenandoah  Valley,  of  Virginia,  that  of 
Western  North  Carolina  is  the  most  interesting.  A 
branch  of  the  Kichmond  and  Danville  Eailroad,  which 
runs  through  this  region,  is  most  complicated  in  its 
construction. 

One  can  scarcely  tell  over  which  portion  of  the 
road  the  train  has  passed  or  will  pass,  as  he  sees  it 
winding  far  above  or  beneath  him,  seemingly  going  in 
an  opposite  direction  to  which  he  is  going.  Taller 
than  any  east  of  the  Eockies,  the  mountains  present 
an  awful,  gloomy,  and  yet  grand  appearance,  as  they 
tower  above  the  clouds.  Just  before  reaching  Eound 
Knob,  going  West,  a  close  observer  will  see  a  little 
white  cross,  away  up  on  a  small  peak.  Why  it  was  put 
there  I  am  unable  to  say,  yet  the  sight  fills  one's  soul 
with  emotion. 

Looking  westward  from  Asheville,  **  Mt.  Pisgah's 
lofty  height "  heaves  into  view,  basking  in  the  last 
rays  of  the  setting  sun.  Asheville,  which  is  right  in 
these  mountains,  is  quite  an  interesting  little  city, 
being  both  a  Winter  and  a  Summer  resort,  and  also 
having  some  very  nice  and  beautifully  situated  hotels, 
Kenilworth  Inn  and  Battery  Park  being  the  leading. 
To  a  person  standing  upon  the  neighboring  mountains, 
Asheville  would  appear  to  be   in  a  valley. 


26 

Once,  in  company  with  a  friend  of  mine,  we  climbed 
up,  she  holding  on  to  my  cane,  while  I  caught  hold  of 
twig  after  twig,  until  we  stood  above  the  clouds  and 
gazed  upon  the  sleeping  city  below.  As  we  stood 
there,  inhaling  the  morning  air,  the  song  of  the 
mountaineers  came  fresh  to  my  mind, 

"  We  are  watchers  of  a  beacon 
Whose  light  can  never  die  ; 
We  are  guardians  of  an  altar 
Mid  the  silence  of  the  sky." 

In  striking  contrast  to  the  surroundings,  the 
people  of  the  rural  districts  of  this  section   are  the 

most    ignorant    and  stupid    it    has    been    my    lot    to 
meet. 

Women  stand  about  their  cabins  with  a  look  of 
stupidity  that  would  make  a  savage  blush.  Stanley 
could  find  abundant  material  here  for  a  book  as  inter- 
esting as  "Darkest  Africa,"  among  his  own  people. 
Let  those  who  are  chafing  about  Russian  cruelties  and 
the  horrors  of  Siberia  visit  the  convict  mines  of  East 
Tennessee.  Unlike  prisons  of  the  North,  and  West, 
the  chief  object  of  which  is  to  make  the  prisoner 
better,  these  have  a  tendency  to  degrade  and  crush 
out  all  the  noble  attributes  that  are  resident  in  the 
victim.  For  he  that  has  committed  a  trivial  offense  is 
worked  beside  the  thief,  the  burglar,  the  murderer. 
Then  again,  a  long  term  of  service  in  these  mines  and 
on  the  convict  farms  of  other  States  as  well,  leaves  the 
person  physically  and  mentally  a  wreck,  unfit  to  pursue 
a  legitimate  calling,  were  he  so  inclined.  Can  Siberia 
do  worse  ? 


27 

The  next  city  at  which  we  arrive  on  this  route, 
after  leaving  Asheville,  N.  C,  going  West,  is  Knox- 
ville,  Tennessee.  But  I  would  ask  the  reader  to 
pass  on  with  me  over  the  East  Tennessee  Railroad  to 
Chattanooga,  which  nestles  like  an  infant  at  the  foot 
of  Lookout  Mountain,  where  ''  Fighting  Joe  Hooker  " 
immortalized  his  name  above  the  clouds.  Leaving 
Chattanooga,  over  the  Cincinnati,  New  Orleans  and 
Texas  Pacific,  we  move  on  southward  until  the  distant 
towers  of  the  grand  old  city  of  New  Orleans  rise 
plainly  to  view.  We  will  linger  awhile  here,  for  un- 
like other  Southern  towns.  New  Orleans  has  a  de- 
lightfully fascinating  effect  upon  me,  and  others,  j)er- 
haps,  have  felt  the  same.  To  hear  the  people,  both 
white  and  black,  conversing  in  French,  makes  one  feel 
as  though  he  were  in  another  country.  It  is  my  de- 
light to  stand  about  the  wharves  and  witness  the 
loading  and  unloading  of  the  great  steamers  that 
plow  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  to  listen  to 
the  peculiar  ''  jabber "  of  the  workmen,  or  stroll 
through  the  old  French  Market,  where  Indians  are 
often  seen  squatting  about  in  twos  or  threes,  selling 
barks  and  herbs.  I  have  often  taken  my  meals  in 
this  market,  to  save  the  trouble  of  looking  for  a 
boarding-house.  Here  the  ''  Chef,  "  with  a  big  mus- 
tache, presides  over  long,  clean  tables,  with  little  stools 
in  front  of  them.  I  never  saw  catfish  served  in 
so  many  styles  as  in  this  place.  It  is  fried  catfish,  baked 
catfish,  stewed  catfish.  Just  give  your  order.  I  did 
not  believe  that  this  monster  scavenger  of  the  rivers 
could  possibly  get  so  popular. 


28 

Leaving  the  market,  with  its  filthy  surroundings, 
going  eastward,  one  is  soon  amid  the  jostling  throng 
on  Canal  street,  the  Broadway  of  New  Orleans,  where 
the  show-windows  are  ablaze  with  finery  of  every  de- 
scription. St.  Charles  comes  first  as  the  avenue  of 
fine  private  residences,  after  the  prevailing  Southern 
style,  with  wide  verandas  and  beautiful,  well-kept 
flower  gardens  in  front.  The  streets  in  this  section 
of  the  city  are  paved  with  asphalt,  and  are  very  clean. 
Here  the  porter  would  fain  stroll  on  a  balmy  summer 
eve,  or  within  some  cheerfully  lighted  hall,  with  the 
beautiful  creole  belles,  .  chase  the  hours  away  with 
flying  feet,  and  in  the  morning,  as  the  city  fades  from 
view,  wish  for  another  trip  to  New  Orleans. 

If  one  should  leave  the  city  by  another  route,  the 
great  Louisville  and  Nashville  road,  which  goes  di- 
rect to  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  he  would  pass  through  Mobile, 
Montgomery,  and  Birmingham,  Ala.,  the  future  leading 
city  of  the  South.  But  the  porter  m\ist  be  alwaj^s  on 
his  guard  as  he  passes  through  this  section  of  country. 
Perhaps  at  Bay  St.  Louis,  or  some  other  way  station, 
"  General,"  ''  Colonel,  "Major,"  A  or  B,  will  honor  us 
with  his  presence.  I  have  had  aboard  as  many  as  half 
a  score  of  these  dignitaries.  These  men  have  more 
brains  than  money.  But  when  it  comes  to  sounding 
the  praise  of  the  *'Blue  Bloods,"  and  giving  the  good- 
for-nothing  ''nigger"  his  dues,  the  choice  vein  of  the 
conversation  has  been  touched.  They  rattle  away  for 
hours  on   this  theme,    regardless    of   your   presence. 


29 

Standing  in  front  of  the  smoking  room  of  my  car  one 
day,  I  heard  the  following  : 

"  Gen'al,  have  you  heard  of  the  move  in  Jackson- 
ville, Florida,  to  have  the  appointment  of  the  City 
Council  given  to  the  Legislature  ?  "  *'  I  have,  Kurnel, 
an'  it's  a  good  move.  It's  the  only  way  to  get  the  up- 
per hand  of  the  nigger.  Porter  give  me  a  glass  of 
water.  I  like  a  nigger  in  his  place,  but  when  it 
comes  to  holding  office  side  a  white  man,  I'fn  pint 
blank  against  it.  Porter  give  me  a  match."  So  thej^ 
went  on,  as  regardless  of  my  presence  as  if  I  had  been 
a  dummy,  to  be  wound  up  and  set  in  motion  at  will. 
Why,  one  of  these  fellows  would  stand  on  my  foot  a 
half  hour,  and  never  think  of  apologizing.  These  peo- 
ple are  continually  regretting  the  state  of  things  and 
chafing  because  the  good  old  polite  "  mammies  "  and 
''uncles"  are  getting  fewer,  and  in  their  stead  are  half- 
educated  "  black  rascals,"  who  think  themselves  as 
good  as  a  "  white  man." 

The  gall  of  these  people  is  simply  astonishing. 
Why  should  not  one  man  feel  himself  as  good  as  an- 
other, when  he  can  see  in  that  other  no  superior  qual- 
ites  ?  Into  what  channel  shouldmy  thoughts  naturally 
go  ?  Answer  one  of  them  direct  and  to  the  point,  and 
he  will  call  you  an  impertinent  "  nigger."  Hold  your 
hat  in  your  hand  and  say,  *'Yes,  sah;  yes  sah!"  to  every- 
thing he  says,  and  he  will  say,  "  Smart  boy  that.  John, 
where  were  you  raised?  Who  was  your  master?" 
In  listening  to  their  conversation,  I  found  that  these 
people    are    always    looking    at    the    dark    side,  and 


30 

contiuually  harping  on  the  unworthiness  of  others. 
Like  the  old  ''  mammy  "  and  '*  uncle,"  old  master  is 
tottering  toward  the  setting  snn.  The  nimble  and 
elastic  step  has  given  place  to  the  slow  and  un- 
certain gait,  and  as  he  nears  the  "  brink  and  shoal  of 
time,"  he  casts  one  long,  lingering  look  behind,  and 
like  the  dying  Antony,  seizes  his  falchion,  makes  a 
pass  in  the  dark,  and  expires.  The  property  owned 
by  the»e  citizens  has  passed  into  the  hand  of  strangers. 
I  venture  to  say  that  nearly  all  of  the  desirable  prop- 
perty  in  most  southern  cities  is  owned  by  Germans 
and  JewSy  people  once  despised.  I  have  in  mind  a  Ger- 
man, in  the  town  in  w^hich  I  was  raised,  worth  at  least 
a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  who  before  the 
war  was  publicly  cowhided  on  the  streets  by  a  man 
who  to-day  would  gladly  become  his  clerk.  Thus  the 
native  Southern  white  allows  that  which  is  desirable 
to  pass  into  the  hands  of  "  Yankees  "  and  foreigners, 
while  his  mind  is  centered  upon  one  thing,  ''  keeping 
the  nigger  in  his  place."  Then,  there  is  another  class, 
called  ''  crackers,''  who  deserve  more  than  a  passing 
thought.  At  every  way  station  clusters  of  them  are 
seen  sitting  about  on  boxes  and  barrels,  whittling 
sticks.  They  go  to  make  up  the  '"  Vigilance  Com- 
mittee,'' and  usually  tie  the  rope  and  lead  the  victim 
to  the  tree.  Let  the  porter  be  careful  how  he  steps 
out,  for  to  tread  on  one's  toes  would  likely  touch  a 
button  that  would  set  the  whole  ground  in  motion. 
These  cowards,  murderers  and  drinkers  of  blood  are 
not  foreigners,  they  are  all  born  Americans. (?)     You 


31 

could  not  find  a  Turk  or  Arab  that  would  keep  them 
company.  They  hate  the  colored  man.  If  he  is 
smartly  dressed  the  aversion  is  the  more  intense. 
^'  Putting  on  airs.  That  nigger  wants  to  be  brought 
down  a  button  hole  lower." 

A  fellow  porter  once  told  me  of  a  young  man  who 
went  down  from  Boston  to  visit  friends  in  Georgia. 
Securing  a  horse,  one  day,  he  rode  a  little  way  into 
the  country.  Reining  up  in  front  of  a  "•  cracker's  " 
cabin,  he  engaged  some  girls  who  were  passing  in 
conversation.  A  woman  sitting  in  the  door  heard  his 
Boston  pronunciation,  and  called  her  husband:  ''John! 
O,  John!  come  here.  Look  at  the  nigger  knee  deep  in 
cowskin,  persumin',  by  G — d."  He  had  his  trowsers 
stuffed  into  his  boot-tops. 

These  people,  brave  and  fearless  as  they  are 
thought  to  be,  are  cowards.  There  is  not  one  of  them 
who  would  stand  up  and  fight  "  on  the  square,"  unless 
he's  got  his  gun,  or  is  sure  of  assistance.  Fifty  of 
them  will  swarm  down  like  bees  upon  one  man.  I 
have  seen  bootblacks  in  New  York  get  into  a  dispute 
over  some  trifle,  take  off  their  jackets  and  fight  it  out, 
the  defeated  one  taking  his  punishment  in  true  Irish 
style.  Not  so  with  these  fellows.  Give  one  a  thrash- 
ing and  he  will  muster  his  family  together,  surround 
your  house  at  night,  and  kill  you. 

As  the  north  bound  train  slowed  up  at  Kome,Ga., 
one  day  two  years  ago,  a  young  man  well  known  to 
me,  came  into  my  car  trembling  with  fear,  and  begged 
piteously  to  be  taken  home.      He  said  that   he  was 


32 

standing  at  the  bnftet  door.  The  train  conductor 
passed  by  and  said:  ''  Have  you  the  tickets  ?  "  "  No,  I 
have  not."  ''  No,  No  1  "  ''  Is  that  the  way  you  answer 
a  white  man?"  ''Beg  your  pardon,  sir;  no  intentional 
insult."  The  conductor  said  no  more,  but  passed  on 
into  the  train.  The  porter  thought  it  was  all  over, 
but  not  so.  The  conductor  soon  returned,  in  company 
with  the  baggageman  and  brakeman,  all  armed,  one 
with  a  pistol,  one  with  a  huge  knife,  and  the  other,  the 
poker.  They  found  the  porter  dusting  out  the  rear 
end  of  his  car.  Placing  the  pistol  against  the  poor 
fellow's  head,  while  his  companions  made  threatening- 
motions,  the  leader  said :  ''  We  came  back  here  to  kill 
you,  you  nigger!"  The  porter  yelled  "Murder! 
Help!"  This  aroused  the  waiter  and  Pullman  conduc- 
tor, who  were  standing  on  the  rear  platform.  They 
rushed  in  and  found  the  poor  wretch  begging  for  his 
life,  and  persuaded  his  tormentors  to  desist.  As 
they  departed,  the  train  conductor  said,  with  an 
oath  :  "  If  you  didn't  look  so  innocent,  I'd  kill  you. 
Don't  you  see  that  my  face  is  white  ?  " 

When  you  answer  a  white  man,  you  should  say, 
"  yes,  sir.  "  Coward!  with  not  manhood  enough  to 
tackle  that  boy  without  help.  You  say  it  was  a  joke  ? 
I  say  no,  for  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  timely  inter- 
ference of  the  other  Pullman  men,  they  would  have 
murdered  him,  thrown  him  from  the  train,  and  reported 
it  self  defense.  The  papers  always  explain  such  oc- 
currances  as  '^  desperate  negro  !  Plucky  conductor!'''  If 
a  black  man  is  slain,  he  is  a  desperado,  while  his  slayer, 


33 

if  white,  is  a  descendant  of  Lord  Baltimore,  acting  in 
self  defense.  I  copy  from  the  Courier  Journal,  of 
Louisville,  Ky.,  the  following  : 

"KILJLED    HIS    M^N!^^ 

Lexington,  Dec.  24th. 

About  ten  o'clock  to-night,  Albert  Harris,  a  big 
mulatto  farm  hand,  was  drinking  in  Martin's  saloon 
on  Limestone  street.  He  got  into  a  squabble  with 
the  bartender,  Eobt.  Griffin,  and  invited  him  outside, 
saying  he  would  whip  him.  Griffin  was  no  match  for 
the  big  negro,  but  went  out  in  front  of  the  house,  and 
when  Harris  started  for  him,  he  drew  his  pistol  and 
fired.  The  bullet  struck  the  negro  in  the  mouth,  and 
he  fell  dead  on  the  pavement.  Griffin  went  home, 
where  he  was  arrested  a  half  hour  later.  The  prisoner 
refused  to  talk,  further  than  to  say  he  acted  in  self 
defense. 

That  is  what  they  call  chivalry. 

''  Go  South,  young  man,"  I  emphasize  the  words. 
Here  the  assassin  can  play  his  part  in  peace  and  the 
murderer  goes  out  on  hail.  The  regulator  returns  from 
his  raids,  wipes  his  bloody  hands  upon  the  door  of 
the  church,  enters  and  prays,  thanking  God  that  a 
nigger  had  been  killed. 

There  is  no  place  where  people  lay  so  much  stress 
upon  the  word  "  white  "  as  in  the  United  States,  es- 
pecially in  this  section.  The  drunken  tramp  stalks  past 
the  professor  of  Greek  and  occupies  the  choice  seat. 
The  Italian,  the  Turk,  the  Pole,  the  Chinaman,  the 
barbarian,  soon  learns,  after  being  "imported,"  that 
there  is  a  certain  American  citizen  who  has  no  rights 


34 

he  should  respect.  A  few  days  ago,  a  tall,  handsome 
Englishman  boarded  the  northbound  train  at  Ashe  ville, 
N.  C.  He  did  not  take  passage  in  the  sleeper,  but  we 
had  with  us  a  lady  whom  he  had  met.  So  at  intervals 
he  would  come  in  and  chat  awhile  with  her.  He  was, 
I  thought,  very  manly.  "  Beg  pardon,  sir,  hope  I  do 
not  intrude,"  he  said,  once  or  twice  in  passing.  Just 
before  arriving  at  Salisbury,  some  fellows,  from  a 
mistaken  idea  of  hospitality,  got  hold  of  our  English- 
man and  filled  him  with  "Mountain  Dew."  They 
made  him  believe  that  the  best  and  safest  place  for 
his  many  bags  and  bundles  was  in  the  sleeper.  So 
they  brought  the  whole  camping  outfit,  dumped  it  in 
front  of  the  drawing  room  and  disappeared  as  silently 
a  Arabs,  for  neither  of  us  could  tell  who  put  it  there. 
At  Salisbury  we  waited,  expecting  some  passenger  to 
"  show  up,"  identify  his  baggage  and  secure  his  berth, 
but  no  one  came.  At  Greenesboro,  up  comes  our  Eng- 
lishman and  his  friend,  as  happy  as  larks.  Then  we 
learned  to  whom  the  baggage  belonged.  "  Cap'n,"  said 
the  American,  "  here's  a  frien'  o'  mine  goin'  to  New 
York.  His  baggage  is  in  your  kyar  an'  I  hope  you  will 
see  to  him.  " 

*^  Yes,  chappie,"  said  the  Englishman,  have  me 
check  in  me  haun'.  "  Jis  give  them  to  the  Cap'n," 
said  the  other,  "  an'  you'll  be  all  right."  "  Now,  chap- 
pie, you  must  u^iderstand  that  an  Englishman  knows 
his  business,  and  is  not  a  fool.  I  hope  I've  not  insulted 
you,  Cap.  ;  good  night,"  and  the  Englishman  was 
minus  his  friend.       The  conductor  having   also  disap- 


35 

peared,  his  ''Lordship"  turned  to  me  and  said:  "I 
say,  chappie,  what  time  does  the  Inman  steamer  sail  ?  " 
''I  can't  tell  you,  sir."  ''Are  you  an  imbecile?  Are 
you  so  simple  that  you  cawnt give  a  man  an  answer?" 
"  Do  you  wish  a  berth,  sir  ?  "  "  No,  I  don't  want  a 
berth  ?  "  "  Well,  you  will  have  to  get  down  ;  you  are 
disturbing  others."  "  Well,  I'd  like  to  see  you  put  me 
down.  It  has  come  to  a  poor  paas  when  a  English- 
man has  to  be  insulted  by  a  d — d  dawky.  A  black 
nagur  orders  me  off  the  car."  Just  then  the  conduc- 
tor came  to  my  relief,  and  told  "milord"  that  he 
would  have  to  take  charge  of  his  own  baggage.  It 
was  just  my  delight  to  drag  it  out.  I  piled  it  at  his 
feet,  and  the  train  pulled  out  and  left  him  standing 
there.  Our  gallant,  and  polite  gentleman,  of  a  few 
hours  previous,  was  using  language  of  which  I  thought 
him  incapable.  At  Rome,  we  do  as  the  Romans.  In 
the  ''  Merchant  of  Venice,"  Shylock  turns  to  his  tor- 
mentors and  says  :  "  Hath  not  a  Jew  eyes  ?  Hath  not 
a  Jew  ears,  feelings,  propensities  ?  If  you  prick  us, 
do  we  not  bleed?  If  you  poison  us,  do  we  not  die? 
If  you  wrong  us,  shall  we  not  revenge  ?  "  I  ask  and 
answer  you  on  the  part  of  the  colored  citizen.  All 
these  will  he  do,  but  the  last,  revenge.  For  when  he 
considers  the  strength  of  the  oppressing  force,  he 
bows  his  head  in  humble  submission.  Is  he  wise  ? 
I  answer,  yes ;  for  by  this  he  keeps  the  spear  out  of 
his  side,  while  he  builds  for  himself  a  structure  that 
shall  stand  to  the  end  of  time. 


36 

When  Deborah,  the  Prophetess,  sang  the  song  of 
triumph,  Israel  had  been  in  bondage  twenty  years, 
during  which  ''not  a  sword  nor  a  spear  could  be  found 
in  all  the  land." 

These  people  are  without  a  "  sword  or  a  spear,' 
yet  now  and  then  we  hear  of  some  Samson  or  Gideon 
or  Barak  who  dares  strike  a  blow  for  freedom. 

There  rode  out  of  Atlanta  some  time  ago  a  band 
of  mounted  men  in  quest  of  sport.  They  halted  at  the 
first  cabin  they  came  to,  and  calling  out  the  only  in- 
mate, an  old  colored  man,  they  loliipped  him,  only 
letting  up  when  they  saw  the  blood  spurting  from  his 
wounds.  At  the  next  cabin  they  met  with  some  re- 
sistance. For  the  knight  of  that  castle,  hearing  the 
tramping  of  horses'  feet,  scented  danger,  and  calling 
his  only  child,  a  girl  of  fourteen  to  his  aid,  with  his 
trusty  rifle,  calmly  awaited  his  doom.  The  mob  sur- 
rounded the  house  and  demanded  admittance.  To 
their  surprise,  the  door  suddenly  opened  and  the  hero 
stepped  out,  raised  his  rifle  and  fired,  killing  one  of 
their  number.  Pen  cannot  fully  describe  the  scene 
that  followed.  Maddened  by  the  loss  of  one  of  their 
number,  they  killed  the  old  man  and  severed  the 
child's  head  from  her  body. 

The  morning  sun  looked  upon  a  scene  ghastly 
and  terrible.  There,  by  the  side  of  his  faithful  child, 
lay  the  hero,  smiling  even  in  death.  "  Leaves  cen- 
turies old  had  fallen  to  make  a  bed  like  down,"  that 
this  warrior  might  lie  in  state.  Brave  Leonadas,  who 
dared  to  strike  a  blow  against  fearful  odds.     Through 


37 

the  leaves  of  the  Georgia  pines  the  winds  whisper  a 
requiem  over  the  spot  where  rest  this  brave  Spartan 
^nd  his  "army." 

The  night,  it  was  dark,  yet  peaceful  and  still, 

Around  that  negro  dwelling  ; 
And  he  heard  the  faint  cry  of  the  Whip-poor-will, 
His  tale  to  the  mountains  telling. 

His  day's  work  was  over,  his  plow  laid  aside, 
His  steed  had  returned  to  his  fodder  ; 

Vh.3  seatiael  stars  set  their  watch  in  the  sky. 
And  the  wolfs  faint  bark  grew  louder. 

*'  Abide  with  us  as  the  dark  shadows  fall," 

Was  the  prayer  of  that  heart,  worn  and  weary  ; 

*'Be  the  shepherd  Thou  wast  to  the  children  of  old, 
As  they  roamed  through  a  land  lone  and  dreary." 

Angels  looked  pityingly  down  from  on  high. 
On  that  sad,  bowed  head,  uld  and  hoary  ; 

They  knew  that  ere  sunlight  should  gladden  the  sky, 
His  soul  would  be  mantled  in  glory. 

Under  cover  of  darkness  from  Atlanta  that  night. 
Rode  a  band  of  white  fiends  bold  and  daring  ; 

Bent  upon  killing  the  innocent  and  weak, 
For  justice  and  right  little  caring. 

Let  Satan  return  from  earth  unto  hell. 

And  call  back  his  imps  from  their  revels  ; 
And  tell  them  that  deeds  done  by  innocent  men, 
O'ershadow  the  cunning  of  devils. 

Hark !  o'er  the  hills  comes  the  tramping  of  feet ; 

The  old  man  arouses  from  slumber  ; 
Looks  out  and  behold !  there  is  wending  in  sight 

A  band  more  than  fiftv  in  number. 


38 

Then  rose  the  bold  hero  and  shouldered  his  gun^ 
And  called  to  his  aid  his  brave  daughter  ; 
'*  Back  !  back  !  ye  white  cowards  ;  we  sell  our  lives  deiir^ 
Just  give  us  a  show  ere  ye  slaughter." 

Not  heeding  the  order,  "  come  out  and  be  whipped/' 

He  raised  his  old  rifle  and  fired  ; 
The  leader,  now  chilled  by  the  cold  hand  of  death. 

Soon  fell  from  his  horse  and  expired. 

You  know  the  story  ;  for  freedom  they  fell, 
These  Spartans,  so  brave  and  so  daring  ; 

But  yonder  in  glory  they've  found  it  at  last, 
And  no  one  need  ask  how  they're  faring. 

"  They  ivere  lovely  and  pleasant  in  their  lives  and  in  their 
death  they  were  not  divided.  They  loere  sivifter  than  eagles ; 
they  were  stronger  than  lions." 

What  is  the  greatest  drawback  of  this  people  ? 
I  say,  the  press  of  this  country.  No  newspaper  pub- 
lishes anything  in  praise  of  them.  If  a  student  has 
graduated  with  honors,  or  a  physician  or  lawyer 
among  them  has  done  a  deed  worthy  of  commenda- 
tion, it  is  whispered,  but  never  gets  into  print.  But 
let  there  be  a  felony  committed,  and  on  the  first  page 
of  the  paper  will  be  seen  in  large  letters,  ''  Bukly 
Negro!"     How  cowardly. 

Let  the  men  see  perfection  in  themselves,  for 
others  will  not  see  it  in  them.  Let  them  see  virtue 
and  true  womanhood  in  their  own  women,  for  in  these 
attributes  the  American  colored  women  will  compare 
favorably  with  those  of  any  other  nationality. 


39 

Compare  the  two,  white  and  colored.  The  one 
lias  everything  to  encourage  her.  She  is  flattered  and 
'Cajoled.  Every  act  is  worthy  of  praise,  every  crime  a 
mi»stake.  The  other,  her  good  deeds  spoken  of  with 
bated  breath,  her  evil  deeds  the  show  and  gaze  of  the 
world. 

The  whitewashed  hypocrite  who  turns  his  back 
rather  than  assist  her  from  a  car,  waits  until  night 
sets  in,  and  '*with  Tarquin's  ravishing  strides,  on  to 
his  design  he  speeds  like  a  ghost."  He  knows  her 
weakness  ;  it  is  that  of  any  other  w^oman. 

Wealth  is  the  monarch  before  whom  Poverty 
casts  her  shield  and  broken  sword,  and  he  would 
spend  it  freely  to  humiliate  her. 

It  seems  as  if  the  entire  country  were  a  detective, 
watching  the  steps  of  this  people,  ready  to  publish  to 
the  winds  all  the  evil  they  do. 

I  was  sitting  in  the  ferryboat  one  morning,  going 
from  Jersey  City  to  New  York,  when  there  entered  a 
lady,  faultlessly  gowned.  Everything  was  tastily  ar- 
ranged. She  was,  indeed,  a  perfect  type  of  woman- 
hood. Yet  two  newly  imported  asses  sat  and  giggled 
and  whispered  till  the  boat  landed  and  the  lady 
passed  out  of  the  saloon.  Ask  those  women  the 
cause  of  their  mirth,  and  they  will  say  it  was  a  colored 
woman,  and  we  thought  it  the  best  thing  to  do. 

There  boarded  the  south-bound  train  at  Philadel- 
phia, one  night,  a  little  girl  about  ten  years  of  age, 
having  a  through  ticket  direct  to  St.  Augustine,  also 
a  letter  to  all  train   conductors   requesting  them  to 


40 

look  out  for  her.  She  was  a  comical  little  thing,  with 
ahead  as  bare  of  hair  as  a  boy's.  I  paid  but  little 
attention  to  her  until  the  following  night.  The  train 
had  stopped  on  account  of  a  wreck  just  north  of  Golds- 
boro',  N.  0.  Passing  toward  the  front  of  my  car,  I 
heard  loud  talking  in  the  coach,  and  stopping  to  learn 
the  cause,  found  that  the  young  men  were  throwing 
water  on  her  and  otherwise  amusing  themselves,  and 
in  fact  everybody  on  the  car,  much  to  her  discom- 
fiture. There  sat  a  car-full  of  ladies  (?)  and  gentle- 
men (?)  and  not  a  single  man  or  tvoman,  for  no  one 
said  a  word  in  her  favor.  But  I  tell  you  that  little 
creature  held  her  own.  With  a  glass  of  water  in  one 
hand  and  a  shovel  in  the  other,  she  was  like  a  lion 
at  bay  when  I  entered  and  told  them  to  desist.  I 
was  her  slave  from  that  hour,  for  she  had  grit  enough 
to  build  a  fort.  After  that  I  was  constantly  beside 
her,  doing  all  in  my  power  to  make  her  comfortable. 

She  had  been  taken  to  New  Jersey  when  four 
years  old,  and  the  good  people  having  decided  to  go 
West  to  live,  thought  it  best  to  send  her  home.  She 
was  a  lovely  little  thing,  with  that  free,  rollicking  dis- 
position, resident  only  in  colored  children  raised  in 
the  North  and  West.  The  train  being  several  hours 
late  at  Jacksonville,  I  arranged  for  her  to  stop  over 
night  with  a  lady,  and,  on  the  following  morning,  to- 
gether we  went  to  the  ferry,  which  at  that  time  took 
passengers  bound  for  St.  Augustine  across  the  river. 
Here  my  little  heroine,  loath  to  leave  me,  clung  about 


41 


my  neck  and  made  me  promise  that  if  ever  I  came  to 
her  home,  to  try  and  find  "  Little  Sarah,"  for  that  is 
all  of  her  name  I  remember. 


VIII. 

I  do  not  mean  by  the  preceding  chapters  to  im- 
press the  reader  with  the  idea  that  there  are  no 
pleasures  in  the  South  land.  We  find  colored  people 
cultured  and  refined,  in  spite  of  odds  ;  wealthy,  in 
spite  of  almost  insurmountable  barriers.  In  the 
church,  in  the  school-house,  in  the  dive  and  dance 
hall,  as  well,  one  can  be  entertained  to  one's  satisfac- 
tion. 

What  person  can  do  them  justice,  who  only  sees 
a  portion  of  the  rough  element  that  stands  about  the 
way  stations  ?  They  .are  not  to  be  found  at  such 
places.  These  good  thinking  colored  people  forego 
the  pleasure  or  displeasure  of  a  journey  by  rail,  when 
they  consider  the  humiliation  of  being  hustled  about 
by  uniformed  lackeys,  who  say  to  all  colored  passen- 
gers :  "  That's  yo'  kyar  ;  that's  yo'  kyar."  Students 
going  to  and  returning  from  college,  who  are  obliged 
to  take  such  accommodation,  are  subjected  to  insult 
by  these  lackeys.  Even  among  the  most  lowly  of 
these  Southern  colored  people  can  be  found  that 
docility  which  makes  a  stranger  feel  at  home.  At 
Charleston,  one  night,  I  sallied  forth  with  a  crowd  of 
light-hearted  young  men  and  maidens  who  were  going 
over  to  James  Island  to  a  ball.  I  am  no  dancer,  but 
as    my   partner  insisted,  I  yielded.     Arriving  at  the 


43 

house,  the  fiddler  was  already  on  hand  **  tunin'  up." 
When  the  neighbors  had  all  gathered,  the  old  fiddler 
perched  himself  upon  the  back  of  a  chair,  his  feet 
resting  upon  the  seat,  and  said  :  "  Git  yer  pardners, 
gem'n.  I  want  you  Jeems  Island  boys  to  try  your- 
selbs  ternight.  I  doan'  want  dese  Charleston  darkeys 
go  home  and  say  yo'  can't  dance.  Yo'  bar'foot  boy  in 
de  corner,  da  stop  whisp'rin'  while  I  talk.  You  dat 
got  on  high  heel  boot,  shoe  and  tings,  don't  scrape  yo' 
foot,  but  go  smoothly.     Balance  all!" 

So  the  ball  commenced.  It  seemed  as  though 
the  young  people  would  never  tire,  and  the  old  fiddler 
was  patting  his  foot  as  vigorously  at  three  A.  M.  as 
at  nine  P.  M.. 

Two  evenings  afterward  found  me  amid  the  jost- 
ling throngs  of  New  York,  but  with  the  wailing  sound 
of  that  violin  ringing  in  my  ears. 

I  will  not  close  this,  my  story,  without  saying 
something  concerning  the  great  metropolis — ^New 
York. 

A  few  words  are  all  that  I  can  truthfully  say, 
although  a  resident  for  over  five  years. 

Pass  through  lower  Broadway,  with  its  jostling 
crowds  and  immense  business  activity,  or  into  Fifth 
Avenue,  with  its  stately  mansions,  or  into  Central 
Park,  with  its  limitless  resources  for  pleasure,  recrea- 
tion, and  instruction;  climb  to  the  elevator,  thunder 
over  the  heads  of  the  surging  multitudes,  back  to  the 
City  Hall ;  walk  to  the  highest  point  upon  the  great 
bridge,  and  look  southward  upon  the  great  harbor 
with  its  innumerable  craft. 


44 

Then  stand  at  night  at  the  entrance  to  one  of  the 
many  magnificent  theatres  and  see  the  gay,  the  blithe, 
the  prond,  in  silken  robes ;  hear  the  merry  peals  of 
laughter  as  they  enter.  To  witness  all  this,  one  would 
say  truthfully  that  New  York  is  all  that  can  be  desired. 

But  truth  is  many  sided.  To  go  from  the  New 
York  terminus  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  up  Park  Eow, 
through  Chatham  Square  to  the  Bowery,  and  turn  east 
or  west  into  the  many  little  crowded  streets,  one 
whose  eyes  have  been  dazzled  by  beauty  and  wealth 
will  find  wretchedness  and  misery  indiscribable. 
Here  Magdalene  wallows  in  her  sin  and  shame,  curses 
God,  despairs,  and  dies.  Here  the  rich  can  provide 
themselves  ^' bags  which  wax  not  old."  And  those 
who  desire  to  lead  perishing  souls  to  Christ  can  find 
a  wide  field.  Often,  in  passing  through  this  portion 
of  New  York,  have  I  seen  in  the  gin  mills  and  dives 
members  of  that  greatest  of  Christian  bands,  the  Sal- 
vation Army,  struggling  to  reclaim  some  fallen  woman, 
some  miserable  drunkard,  who  is  wasting  away  body 
and  soul.  Also,  I  have  seen  the  redeemed  wretch 
stand  forth  before  a  scoffing  multitude  and  speak 
boldly  of  the  reedeeming  love  of  Christ. 

Here  the  beggar  pleads  loudly  for  "  two  cents  to 
cross  the  ferry,"  "  ten  cents  to  secure  lodgings,"  etc. 

This  is  New  York,  also  ;  and  to  look  at  this  side 
of  the  painting.  New  York  is  not  very  desirable. 

These  are  a  few  of  my  recollections.  So,  like  the 
beloved  Brutus,  I  ask  *'Whom  have  I  offended?" 
Who  is  here  so  base   that  he  does  not,   wherever  he 


45 

goes,  note  above  all  things,  that  which  is  to  the  in- 
terest of  his  race.  Let  him  speak,  ''  for  him  have  I 
offended."  Who  is  here  so  vile  that  would  not  be  an 
American  citizen,  with  a  full  enjoyment  of  a  citizen's 
rights  ?  Let  him  now  speak,  "■  for  him  have  I  of- 
fended." I  pause  for  a  rej^lj.  None?  Then  none 
have  I  offended. 

With  this  I  depart.  I  started  out  with  the  in- 
tention of  giving  my  readers  a  glimpse  at  the  life  of  a 
car  service  man,  and  if  in  this  I  have  failed,  I  invoke 
your  sympathies  and  claim  your  tears. 

.   "Jack  Thorne." 


LOUIS  G.  BULL06H, 


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