1445
C3R27
1908a
v.l
^'U.:. J^^^'rzi;^^'
Religious Intercourse Between Ceylon and Slam
In the Eighteenth Century
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
Religious Intercourse
BETWEEN
CEYLON AND SIAM ^
IN THE p:ighteenth century.
I.
An account cf King Kirti SrPs Embassy to Siara
in Saka 1672 (1750 A.D.)
translated from the SINGHALESE
BY
P. E. PIERIS, ALA., Barrister-at-Law, CCS.
Hoprint<?d under the auspices of the Committee of
the Vajirafu'ina National Library from the
Journal of the Koyal Asiatic Society Ceylon
Branch, Vol. XVIIL
BANGKOK:
"SIAM OBSERVER" OFFICE.
1908.
>v
f
> . tp V- c; 5 /
n^HE Embassy which was sent from Cevlon to
Siam in the IStli Century in the reign of the
KincT Kirti Srirajasih with a view of inviting priests
from Siam to inaugurate an ordination service has
formed the subject of accounts written in Singhalese
and Siamese.
The account here published is an exact reprint
from the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society Ceylon
Branch. Vol. XVIII. of the translation made by
P. E. PiERis of the "account of King Kirti Sri's
embassy to Siam in Saka 1672 (1750 A.D.)" )
Some obvious mistakes in the notes have been
corrected, and it may be mentioned that ** Muang
Nolak Van" mentioned on page 12 is a Singhalese
misreading of the Siamese '* Tahlt Khvan " the pre-
sent Nonthaburi.
A translation of the account of the embassy
known under the title of ** Syamopadasamvata " has
been received through the courtesy of Mr. W. A, Gr.
Tilleke, and it will shortly be issued.
The Siamese accounts mentioned in the Journal
Asi.'itique X*^ Serie, Vol. VIII. and in the Journal of
the Siam Society, Vol. IV, will likewise be published.
O. FRANKFURTER.
Vajiranana National Library,
November, 1908.
J548G27
k
r
An Account of King Kirt! Srfs Embassy to Siaur
in 1672 Saka ^750 A. D.)
• i
Translatec from tbe Siulialese bv P. E. Pieris,
M.A., Barrister -at-Law, c.c.c.
Introductory Note.
Thk learued RatanajiVa Stbavira, who
wrote the Sinlialese translation of the Vimdna
Wastuv'ci in the Saka }ear lt>92 (1770 a.d.),
has left a short sketch of the hi^tcrj of the
decline of the priesthood in Li?iVa and of the
attempts made under various Lings to re-
establish it on a sound basis. He saja as
follows : —
Two hundred and forty years after the
death of our hivd Buddha, the shelter of all
the worlds, who departed this life after he had
for forty-fiva years showered oa all the heaven-
ly food of his doctrine, and had accomplished
every act which befits a Buddha, when the
Maha Kiiji Petissa was holding sway over our
Island of Lanla, his doctrine was first intro-
duced by Mahindu Maha The 6 and the other
priests who accompanied him from Djmbadiva ;
ever since the faithful and wise kings who have
reigned from time to time, aided by their great
ministers and the efforts of pious priests learned
in the law, had carefully swept away all schisms
that had sprung up and preserved the doctrine
inviolate. But in recent times the disappear-
ance of such kings and ministers, followed bj
the oppression of the unbelieving Parangis and
Damilai, had robbed the pious priests of the
Four Necessaries; and as the religious younff
men of good families who assumed the robe bad
( 2 )
not the learning to studj with care the Three
Pl/ikas, which contain the Vinaya. Sii^ra, and
Abhidharma, and to order their lives in con-
onanee with the precepts contained therein, by
decrees power fell into the hands of low-born
priests of profane life, to the great injury of
the church. And as for the priestly succession,
which beginning from U^a'i SttAvirajo^ whom
the Puddha him^:elf had named as the first in
the knowledge of the Vinaya, and continued in
the persons of Dasekaya, Sonakaya, Siggavaya,
Moggaljputthaya, Mihindu, c^'2., and recruited
from all pious folk who assumed the robe with-
out any distinction of family in proper and
perpetual succession of master and pupil, this
they ignored : and, confusing physical with
spiritual kinship, refused to allow pious youner
men of good family to assume the robe, and
treated all the estates and wealth which gene-
rations of godly kings and ministers had deli-
cated to the service of the priesthood as if they
had been dedicated to the use of their private
families. Accordingly, for the sake of this
wealth, they had the members of their own
families ordained, so that as being in robes
they might receive the due Rajil ariya, pretend-
ing that this was the succession appointed by
the church. But indeed that succession, which
was maintained immaculate by disrobing all
priests who had violated their oaths and by the
ordination of religious and well-born youths,
was reduced to a mockery , atid, save for a
few holy priests, the m'^jority were as men
fouling themselves with hot ashes while the
gems lay before them. And while the Dharma
and the Vinaya, subjects for unending study,
lay in their path, they preferred the study of
such profane matters as astrology, medicine,
snd devil-worship, all of which they practiced
( 3 )
in unbecoming fashion within and without the
capital, and thu3 winning the goodwill of kings
and powerful ministers, they obtained much
wealth and high office. They led scandaloua
lives and, ignoring the precepts of the law
thej betook themselves to cultivation anl
trade, accumulatingf jewellery and clothes, ani
making the support of their brothers anl
nephews an article of their faith. When by
the increase in the number of these shameless
priests and by the oppression of the unbelieving^
Parabsis and Dami'as the faith was on the
brink of destruction, it came to pass that a
valiant and poweiful king of the name of htija,
Si?iba succeeded to the throne of Laj'.Va, In
the year of Budiiha 2199 he reduced the strong
fortress of Colombo and crushed the power of
the Parangi?. He also invited over the Hoi-
landers anJ, with the object of protecting tha
rovdl line ai^.d the inhabitants of the Island
from the attacks of unbelieving foreigners, he
appointed them to be the guardians of the
coasti
The way beingr thus cleared, his succassor
Wimala Dbarma Siuiya devoted himself to the
good work ; and indeed the need was pressing,
as it was admitted that not more than five
Upasampada priests of holy lite were to be
found in the Island. He accordingly sent an
embassy to the ** JRakka?igu Riti " (Arracan ?)
and obtained thence the ten ranks of priests,
who were required for the ordination ceremony.
This pious king died after a rrigu of twenty-
two years and was succeeded by the lukewarm
Naieadra Si7iha, under whom all the scandalous
practices of the priesthood revived. ** So far
from begging from door to door,'' the his-
torian bitterly complains, •* they regarded eveu
the eating out of their alms-bowls as a disgrace
( 4 )
Their food was cooked in the same fashion as
that of the great nobles among the laitj, and it
was eaten out of plates. In fact, thej were
priests is nothing but the use of the name,**
There was one bright exception, in the
person of Sara^inkara the future Sa7iga Eaja ;
Le continued with a small band in the practice
or the severest austerities and the pursuit of
Iparning, waiting for the batter daj that was to
dawn.
After a reign'^of twentj-three jears Na«
lendra Sinha was succeeded by Wijaja f?aja
Sinha, "a king endowed with all the virtues,
the ornament of the Sokr race, who sought his
refuge in the Three-fold Gem,*' sajs the enthusi-
astic chronicler. Early in his reign he sent an
embassy to fetch a body of priests ; the expedi-
tion was however disastrous, all exc^^pt one
perishing in the sea ; the survivor made his
way to Pegu, whence he returned home to tell
the sorrowful tale.
But the king did not lose heart ; a spcond
embassy was soon ready and provided with
suitable offering.*. On arriving at Batavia the
presents were left behind, while the ambassa-
dors proceeded to Siam to inquire if priests
were available; but on their return to Bttavia
they learnt that their good king was dead, and
as their Dutch hosts advised them not to
convey the priests without first ascertaining the
wishes of the ru'iog king, they reluctantly set
sail for hirikii leaving the presents behind,
their object unaccomplished. Their misfortunes
were however only begun, as on the voyage the
majority perished, but few surviving to reach
their country.
There King Kirti Sri Raja Sinha, the great
reformer, had succeeded to the Crown ; he
( 5 )
applied himself vigorouslj to sweeping away all
the abuses that had crept into the priesthood,
dblj and zealously lupported by Saranankara
Unrante and his Minister Ehelapola. Hia
crowning work was the re-institution of the
Upasampac'ji.va in Lanla ; the romantic historj
of the embassy he sent to Siam to fetch the
necessary priests will be shown in the following^ •
account, which, as appears fiom the internal
evidence, must have been written either bj
Ellepola Mohc/Mla or Eittalijadde Rala, two
out of the five Sinhalese ambasadors.
The present translation, which does not
pretend to literal accuracy, is made from a
paper manuscript which has been generously
placed at my disposal by E. K. Gooneratne
Mudalijdr of Galie; it was found among the
papers of the late Valentine de Saram, Maha
Mudalijar, and was given by his son-in-law, the
late Bandaiaiaike Maha Mudalija^-, to his own
nephew the present owner. A second account,
written by VVillaTedara Muhandiram, another
of the ambasS'idors is in existence; the additio-
nal information contained therein will be
found erabDdied in the notes. I have been also
favoured with the comments of the noble Priest
Jinawarawarzsi, once known as the Prince Pris-
dang of Siam ; these, too, will ba found includ-
ed there. I have further to acknowledge the
great assistance I have received from Don
Dines Dahanayake of Galle in the preparation
of this article —
TRANSLATION.
Our mighty lord, sprung from Maha Sammata
of the family of Manu, king of kings, and ruler
of the world, our gracious and illustrious king, in
the magnitude of his kindness and splendour of
( 6 )
his god-!ike kr.owledg^e gave orJer that ambassa^
dors should proceed to the kingdom of Siauj
to fetch tbeDce the priesthood and reestablish
the festival ot the Great Ordination.
Accordingly we started in the Saka year 1672'
named Prabavadithmi, on the twelfth day of
the solar month Kataka, being Thursday the
fiftli day of the lunar month, at dusk, from the
noble city of Senkadagala called Siriwardhana^
pura, escorting the royal message and presents
with all care. The following had been appoin-
ted to form the embassy, viz , Pattapola
Mohcffa'a, the Atapattu Lekama; Ellepola
Mohc/f ila; the VecZiktaa Lekama; Iiiyagama
Ea'a, the Yafinuwara Muhandiram of the
Nil ii/akka -a Lekama ; VVilbaTjedara Rala, the
Tumpanahe Muhandiram of the Padikara
Lekama; and Eittaliyadde Rala, the Dumbera
Muhandiram of the Yedil<ara Lekama; while
Pinnapata, Dissave of Ma'^ale; Angammana
Mohc^fila, the Maha Lekama : Dodanwela, Kite
E-ala of Yatinuwara ; Nilawature Rala, Muhand.
iram of the Lekama cf Musketeers; and
Usgiriya Rala. Muhandiram of the Nanayakkara
Lekama, had been commanded to accompany us
on board ship.
Oar first halt was at Wa^firanf inna. Thence
we started on the fourth day, being Sunday, at
the tenth hour, and approached God^pola
Nuwara, where we rested two days. Oj Tues-
day we started at thp eleventh hour of the morn-
ninor and halted at Nalaida. On Wednesday we
halted at Gonawala, on Thursday at Mingiri-
wewa, on Friday at A'utwewa, on Saturday at
Gantale, and on Sundny we reached Tambala-
gamuwa, where we rested two days. On Tues--
day we started at the thirteenth hour and about
the eighth hour after dark we approached the
( 7 )
harbour cf Tiincomalee, where three officers
from the fort met us ar»d accompanied us with
the royal message and presents together with
our attendants and soldiers, amidst every mark
3 of respect, to our halting place. On Wednes-
day afternoon we were escorted with much
ceremony within the fort, where we had an
interview befittinor the occasion with the Com-
mander, after which we were ao^ain escorted
back to our lodging, when the officers left us,
Oa the morning of the following Thursday^
being the fifth day of the lunar month, about
the twenty-eighth hour, in the propitious
ast«^rism Hata in the Makara Lagna, when
Venus was in the ascendant, we went on board.
4 Here we remained seven days till on Wednesday
morninsr at the twenty-seventh hour the flags
were run up and eail hoisted, the anchors were
weighed, and we steered cut of the harbour
with a fair breez». Go the following Thursday
night ab ut the sixteenth hour a storm over-
took us and the ship was in great danger. Two
masts and sails and several ropes were destr yed,
and the ship wbs driven round and round. In
our peril we consoled ourselves with the reflection
of the Three fold Gem, till our gallant captain
came and bid us be of good cheer. Till^Friday
morning he was encouraging his skilful steers-
man to s^and by the helm, and we rushed
forward at a great pace. We roughly repaired
the damage and drr ve the ship before the wind
for twelve days and nights without ceasing, till
Monday morning we saw to the north a long
stretch of level land and a high range of hills
with three beautiful peaks, mountains of enor-
5 mous S'z^, shaped like corn ricks. Next we
sighted Acheen and Sumatra and learned that
they were inhabited by Javanese. Till noon on
the eighth day, being Monday, these great
( 8 )
plains and hills and rockj mountains remained
in sight. On this day the wind dropped and we
were at a standstill for seven days, and were
even obliered to cast anchor to prevent the ship
drifting back. At last on Sunday morning,
the wind freshening, we weighed anchor again
and started. By midday we sighted t> the
north a lofty range of mountains and two
stretches of low land at the mouth of a
river as well as a harbour, this was a country
inhibited by Malays. To north, south, east,
and west we saw four small vessel?, and on the
north-Bast a largre ship. Our captain was greatly
alarmed, as he did not know if they were friends
or foes, and while they were sdll at a distance
he weighed anchor, turned his ship round, and
steered back fifteen gavvas.
Having thus escaped the danger we started
again on cur way, and seven days later on Sunday
morning we sighted on the east a great rocky
mountain surrounded by a dense forest of kolon
trees with a bank of sand stretching round it.
The captain, telling us that if we drew '^ear we
wou'd not be able to cross the bar, mada great
efforts for seven days to tcck to the south ; he
succeeded at last and we started again at dawn
on Sunday and sailed on for four days. In the
evening we sounded and found twelve fathoms
of water, and as there was a stretch of sand by
the mouth of a river we furled sail and dropped
anchor* On Taursday sail was hoisted in the
ship's boat and several people with an officer
started to explore. They returned on Friday
morning ahd reported that extensive sandbanks
lay on every side.
The captain accordingly fitted out another
boat with all the necessary tackle and sent an
officer with eight sailors to Malacca. On Satur.
{ 9 )
(lay morning our ship snapped oneof her cables^
lost her anchor, nnd bejjan to toss about; but
our captain quickly lowered another anchor.
Seven days later on Thursday, five hours after
dawn, the officer who had proceeded to Malacca
returned with the Company's factor and the
chief carpenter called the Bass Thuvan h^ra-
roath, who brought with them in two sloops a
lar^ie supply of water, betel, and arecanuts
with cocoanuts tender and hard ; they address-
ed us with great kindness atd re-starting the
ship we arrived the same evening at the
harbour of Malacca. Here we \>aited three days
till five officers came on boaid fiom the fort to
welcome us and take us with the loyal message
and presents with our attendants on land ; this
was at dusk on Sunday the twenty-ninth day of
the solar month Kanya, being the eleventh day
of the waning half of the lunar month. On land-
ing we were conducted with great ceremony to
our halting place. On the seventh day following
b"ing AVednesday, the Governor and the Fiscal
called on us in the afternoon to inquire after
cur well-bein^, and the next day five officers
took us in horse carriages to return the visit and
accompanied us back again. On Sunday the
twelfth day of the solar month we were taken
back on boardship in sloops. Here we found all
the damage properly repaired, and at dawn on
Wednesday we set sail and proceeded without
stopping for eight days, till on Thursday we saw
a range of mountains, rocky plains, hills, and
sandy stretches surrounding us like the embank-
ment of a tank. Th« captain and officers after
much deliberation declared that it would be
useless to sail back ; and examining their chart
and noticing three leafy trees on one of the
stretches of sand that lay in our way, they steer-
ed the ship through a narrow passage that lay
( 10 )
near and after four days passed the range of
mountains. Then we proceeded four days till,
on Thursday evening, on looking; round us we
saw that we had passed the ranges of hills and
high mountains with their plains and great for-
ests hnd the sea with its stretches of sand, and
had reached the open. As the wind failed we
cast anchor, having three mountains to our
south. After ten days the wind freshened some-
what, so we weighed anchor and tacked
about for five days and nights, trying in vain
to get on to our course. As we were drifting
backard were too far to the south to reach Siam,
the captain and officers held a consultation, and
as they saw from their books that there was no
hope of a favourable wind for the rext six
months, they agreed that it was necesary to
stop on the way till then. After informing us
of their decision they turned back, and on the
afteri oon on Friday, being fourteen days later,
we aj proached the habour of Malacca a second
time and cast anchor. After some delay five
officer^ came on board from the fort to interview
us and took us on land with the Royal message
and presents in boats. This was on the after-
noon of .'^aturday ihe ppventef nth day of the
solar month Vrischika. We wern received with
great distinction and the same halting-placa as
befo^owas assioned to u^, and all our wants
were >upplied without stint. From this day we
remair;d(-d here fivn n;onths and elt-ven days
till the twenty- -eventh day of the solar month
Me a, being Thursday the eleventh day of the
lunar month in the Saka year 1673, On the
morning of this day, at the twentieth hour,
we werp taken on board with many presents
and a large supply of nfces«:aries; a skilled
pilot waF also ordered to accompany us, and
500 nx-dolUrs were placed at our disposal.
( 11 )
From Ibis day, bein^ Friday, till Monday
the fourteenth day of the solar month Vrasam-
la, which is the thirteenth day of the dark
half of the lunar month, we sailed on without
casting anchor or meetinof with any mischance.
On the morning of this day at the eleventh
hour we approached the harbour of Slam, and
seeintT a ship which was recognized from her
appearance as the Hollander's ship **Karta,*'
the captain and officers were greatly rejoiced
and fired off the ^uns and celebrated games,
speakins: to us most kindly and asking us to
join ttem. When we dropped anchor the
Hollandpr's flag was lowered, and the Lion Flag
of LanVa was hoisted at the masthead; at the
samf^ time the captain got into his boat and
sailed quickly to the mouth of the river and
up to the country of Siam.
Seven days later, on Monday morning three
messenorers came rn board from Siam and had
an interview with u?: they went and saw how
the royal message was disposed, and prostrated
themselves and made obeii^ance before it three
times; after this they presented us with co-
coaruts tender and hard, with betel and areca-
nut', ard went away the same day. On the
twentieth day of the solar month Mitbuna,
which is the eighth dny of the increasincr iiioon
of the lunar month Poson, being Wednesday,
abcut the tenth hour of the morning, two officers
came from the capital and accompanied us with
the roy«l message and presents to the place
called Ain>terdHm, which is built at the mouthof
the river; here we landed and remained two days
On the moTningof the third day, beinj2 Friday the
ninth dayofthemonth, the message was trans-
fered to a boat adorned with various devices, with
hangings of silk and red stuffs which seived as
( 12 )
curtains, with awningfs above and carpets below.
The presents were taken in thirteen boats : five
boats were set apart for the five ambassadors,
and our attendants too were similarly provided
for. The escort that had come from Siam ac-
companied us in forty-eia;ht boats with their
tents adorned in the manner described above,
rowinsr on either side of us. Eig;ht large boats
with flags and umbrellas were attached to the
one convf yinj; the royal message by means of
stout ropes, one to each, thus taking the latter
in tow. We proceeded in this manner up the
river amidst great rejoicings on the part of the
people, and the same afternoon we reached the
district called Bangkok. The Siamese ofiicer
stationed here received us with great respect
and provided us with all necessaries.
The next morning, being Saturday, the chief
priests from the neighbouring viharas were
invited to the spot, and accepted alms at our
hands with robes and the priestly necessaries,
and the Paiichaj^iia was administered, after
which we and our attendants were entertained
at a feast. Leaving here the same morning
we arrived in the evening at the district called
10 Mung Nolak Van, where too the Siamese oflScer
entertained us. The next morning being Sun-
day, he arranged for the chief priests to come
and accept offerings at our hands and toad-
minister Pansil, after which we were entertain-
ed in turn. Immediately after this we started^
and by rowing the whole night we reached the
U spot called Wat Pro Yath at dawn on Monday,
and halted near the great vihara there. Here
too we were received with the same ceremony
and similar religious exercises were arranged
for us by the officer in command ; further, in
Qbedience to the king's order he arranged an
12
( 13 )
Upasampada ChAritra Pinkama at this temple,
so thac we might both derive pleasure rnd
acquire merit by the sight.
We remained seven days, and at dawn on
the ei<^hth day, being: Monday, five great officers
of State came from the capital and took the
royal message in a large canopied litter which
was placed on board a jjilt boat, while wa
proceeded in five others accompanied by the
presents and attendants. When we reached
thesp^t called Bai Pas Sath the two banks
of th3 river were adorned with arches of gold
and fcilver cloth, while a large concourse of
people holding flags and umbrellas of various
kinds were thronged together on gaily decked
boats ; we were filled with admiration at the
sights on this river, crowded as it vvas with
every kind of meicbandise.
About the eighth hour of the s^me mornings
we approached the capital of A3 6ihya Pura and
were presented to the sub king. We showed 13
him the royal message and prej-ents at which
he expressed his great pleasure and spoke to us
most kindly for a shcrt time and inquired about
our journey. He further informed us that a
subsequent communication would be made to us
regarding the presentation of the royal message
and presents at the court. After this he desir-
ed us to return to our halting^ place; we accord-
ingly returned down the river to the Dutch
settlement.
When the Siamese officers bad conveyed the
news to the king, he sent orders that we and
our attendants were to be fully supplied with
all necessaries from the royal stores during our
stay here.
( H )
Liter some officers came with a laro[fl supply
of all kinds of eiitables and sweets of sugar,
with mandarin oranges, ripB plantains, betel,
arecanuts, limo, tobacco, and various other
articles, Thej came a spc:)nd time and dis-
14 tributed silver coins called t'tccal and tnamm-puwa
from the rojal treasury amoni^ us all. Moreover,
the tradespeople were ordered to attend the
people from La/ika, the chief priests of the
vita^as were requested to be so kind as to visit
the men at all tiLies and to preach hana, and to
pl-a>e them by allowing them to olTer the usual
offerings and thus acquire merit.
On the seventeenth day of the solar month
KataLa about five hours before dawn three
officers came and accompanied us in boats; we
landed in the street at the great gate in the city
wall fid entered carriages drawn by horses.
The two sides of the street were decorated with
various kinds of cloths and hung with e:ilt lamps
shaped like pumpkins decorated with glass and
plates of mica; the street shone as with moon-
light in the blaze of a hundred thousand lamps.
We drove up the midile of the street as far as
the great gate called Yam Thak ; it was one
unbroken stretch of gold-worked cloths of five
colours, trays and boxes of silver and gold,
ornaments of copper, bronze, brass, and zinc,
red and white .[sandalwood, embroidered quilts
and curtains, all kinds of medical stores, rice,
cocoanuts, plantains, mandarin oranges, orangee,
sweet meats, all manner of flowers, all manner of
eatables and drinkables, with sweets and meats ;
the shops were adorned with erilding, and the
street a blaze of splendour. When we arrived
within sight of the palace, which shone with gilt
work, we alighted from our carriages and rested
a short time in a hall hung with beautiful cur-
( 15 )
tains where, accordiDg: to their custom, sapii
dowers were presented to u?. Then we proceed-
ed within the palace, pntprins: bj two sjatea
ndorne 1 with i^ildinj^ and all kinds of colours.
On either side of the fjreat throne were arranged
ficrures of benr.', lions, ia'<shas, door-guirdians,
na^jas, and bsirawa yaksha};!^, two of each,
adornei with j^old. In their midst rose the
throne which appeared about 10 cubits bififh ;
round it were fix^d fjolden sesat, while marvellous
golden embroideries were hung round. The
walls themselves were gilt and the spires above
the dais were of gold. Here we were brought
before the king and presented the rojal letter
and present?, after which we were graciously
permitted to visit the interior of the place.
To the right of this was a gilt elephant stall ;
within — covered with trappings of solid gold,
with golden bells, frontlets, and eje-chaiu'?, gold-
w^orked Jiendiucci and auJcusa, behind a network
of ropes plated with gold, with a golden awning
above secured to a post covered with plates of
gold, with gilt tail and trunk, its tusks adorned
with golden rings and encased with golden
sheaths set with two magnificent gems at their
tips, eating sugar cane from a large gilt boat
set up within, while another such held water for
its use — there stood, on a gold-worked platform,
a tusked Elephant, with its eyes and hair the 15
colour of copper. In a similar stall was a black
tusker thickly covered with gray spots. Similarly
on our left were two elephants in their stalls.
In front of the gate in a gilt stable, almost
hidden beneath their trappings of solid gold,
was a ring of horses ; a similar ring faced this^
also another of elephants with gilt trappings. 16
In the intervals of these was an innumerablar
( 16 )
host armed with gilt swords and shields resting
on their knee^ ; another dressed in armour with
tridents in their hands; another armed with
bows with gilt quivers suspended round their
necks ; another of specially powerful men wear-
ing on their heads the spiie-shaped Siamese hat ;
and another standinj^^ in line with guns and
pouches. There was also a motley crowd resting
on their knees, dresspdin gorgeous clothes, with
their heads wrapped in cloths of various hues ;
this consisted of Pa/Mni, Moors, Wa^iga,
Mukknra, men of Delhi, Malacca, and Java,
Kavisi, ChinfsB Parangis, IlcHanders, Sa?nKisis,
^6gi2, . English, French, Oastilians, Danes, men
from Surat, Avo, and Pe^u. representinir every
race. Within the great gate on either side were
two platforms on whicli s^ood two palmirahs
and two cannon made of the five kinds of metals ;
round these rest* d a bard of fiiihtintj men armed
with clubs. The palace gate, the hall in which
the sub-king and the nobles were assemblpd, the
doors, windows, and bars were all decoraled in
great profusion ; the former were crowned with
gilt spires, flowers, and wreaths. In the midst
of all btood the king's palace of five f-tages,
similarly adorned with gilt [:pires. At tie four
corners were four towers five st(iries high, pierced
with many windows and lattice work. There
were also many halls decorated with much gild-
ing and built in two stages. The palace of the
prince and the three palaces of the queens were
similar in appearance. The magnificent pile is
erected on the river wall, which commences at
the river and encircles the whole city. The
great gate is at the landing place ; the rampart
starts from here and runs to the right; then it
sweeps round in a circle encompassing the
whole city, till it finally meets the river again^
Within the city there are canals running in
( 17 )
parallel Hues like the leaves of an indi branch.
It is impossible to ^ive any conception of the
numb:-r of boats and passengers on these. Who
will venture to say in what language the trafic
on the great river can be described ? There
were al^o nuiuberless streets thronged with
people, full of shops displaying every kind of
mercbundise including images of gold, ^'o far
I have only attempted to describe the inner city
just as I saw it.
As we were directed to return to our halting-
place, two cflScer^ accompanied us back first in 17
carriages i;nd then in boats.
Seven days later on Friday, being full moon,
two officers cime and informed us that the king
had given orders for us to qo and worship at
two vibiiras on thir^ day. We acccrdiahly pro-
•ceeded ir boats and worshipped at the vibore
called Vat Putin Suwan. The following 28
is a description of the place. On the right
of the g'reat river there stretches a plain
right up to the river bank ; here are built long
ranges of two storied halls in the form of a
square, with four gateways on the four sides ;
on the four walls were placed two hundred gilt
images. Within the eastern gate is fashioned
a likeness of the sacred footprint, with the
auspicious symbol worked in gold. Right in
the centre is a great gilt dagaba with four
gates. On entering by the eastern gate there
is found a flight ot* stone steps gilt ; right in
the womb of the dagaba are enshrined
the holy relics ; and it was so built that
it was possible to walk round within the
dagaba without approaching them. There was
also within a gilt reproduction of the
3acred Foot* - On either side of this gate were
( 18 )
built two fi^c-beaded NA^ja Rajas apparently
descenJiog to the bank of earth. To the north
of this was a two-storied biilding with a throne
in the middle of it ; on tbia was seated a g[\t
fiofure of the Buddha twelve cubits high. To
the east of this and facing it was a five-storied
building hung^ with awnings and adorned with
paintings and gilding; the pillars in the middle
were covered with plates of gold, and on a throne
in the centre was a life-size image of gold sup-
ported on either side by two similar gilt images
of the two chief disciples Sarijut Mahasami and
Maha Mugalan Siimi and numerous others.
Above the gateway from the roof to the lintel
there was pictured in gilt work Buddha in the
iSakra world, seated on the White Throne and
preaching his glorious Abbidharma to the god
Mavu Deva and to the gods and Brahmas of
unnumbered words; and again, when his dis-
course was ended, he is depicted as descending
bj t^e golden stairs to Sakaspura. The vihare
itseli is strongly guarded by walls and gates ;
round about are built pleasant halls and pniests*
houses filled with the holy men, with worship-
pera of high rank and devotees of either sex.
From ibis place we proceeded to worship at
the Palla?ikara A»ama Vibare, the description
of which is as follows: — The building is of
three stages built on a piece of level land by
the bank of the river. Along the four walls
were ranged various images of the Buddha and
of Rahats as well as of gods and Brahmas, in
diverse colours and adorned with gilding. In
the middle was a glittering image of the
Buddha life-size and seated on a throne,
supported on either side by images of Sariyut
and Maha Mugalan, all profusely adorned with
gold. Facing this were two two-storied halls ;
( 19 )
round about were ^ilt daijabas , the very ^[ate-
ways were p^ilt, and the place was one labyrinth
of preachingr and living-halls, thronged with
priests, pious men, and devotees. After wor-
shipping here we were taken back to our
halting place.
On the twentj-first day of the solar month 19
Kanya, bains: Sunday, three officers came in the
morning and accompanied us in boats to the
vihare called Maha Dhanvaram}^, in the district 20
named Na pu than, that we might make
offerings there to the Baddha and acquire
merit, and also see the baauties of the place;
and this is what we saw there. The place
was a fertile stretch of level land enclosed
by four walls, outside which ran four canals.
From the water- course to the east up to the
gate there was a long covered passage of two
stages. On entering at the gateway we saw
on the four sides eight holy dagabas, so
covered with e^ildins: that they resembled
masses of Hnihiriya flowers. In the intervals
were various images. Among them at the four
sides were four buildings of two stages against
the inner walls of which, and rising to the
roof were large gilt images of the Buddhaw
Within the space enclosed by these were four
handsome gilt dagabas with images inter*
^pered. In the very centre of all was was a
dagaba richly adorned, with doors on the four
•sides fitted with stairs, up and down which
we could ascend and desceijd. At the four ,
corners of the square base of the spire were
four dragons with wings outstretched anS
meeting above ; in the four panels were four
images of gods adorned with all the divine orna-
ments, as well as images of the gods ^ho preside
at the four points of the compass/'with their
( 20 )
bands clasped overhead. In the inteiv^ls were
images of door-guardians armed with swords, of
lilkshas with clubs and of bnrajds with staves,
while above the circular base of the spire were
depicted in solid gold the sacred halo. On either
side of the stair leading from the eastern gate
ran two snake?, their bodies the size of palmirab
p^.lms; where thej reachfd the ground their
hoods were raised and renting on slabs of crystal;
their open jaws and projecting fangs filled the
hearts of those who saw them with terror.
Starting from here there were ranged round
the dii^aba images of lions, bears, swans,
peacocks, kinduras, deer, oxen, wolves,
buffaloes, makaras, and door guardians
armed with swords. Also, carrying palm
fan>, cljiimaras, sesat, triumphal chanks,
and various cfferinj^?, with their hands
clasped above their heads, were numerous
imnges of Brahmas, Sakras, and the Sujama
gods, all adorned with go'd. In the hnl: to the
east, with its eye: fixed on the dagraba, was an
image of the Buddha ^iipportfd on either side
bj images of the two great disciples with their
LaLd-^ clasped above their heads. Also there
was another image of the lord as he was in life,
begging for food with hie bowl in his sacred
Land. In another building, which was reached
bj a flight of steps, were various images of the
Buddha and two figures of the Sacred Foot-
print with the auspicious symbols in gold. In
a similar hi^ll to the west were three images.
Here was depicted in gold our lord reposing in
lion fashion in his scented room, whilst Ananda
Mabasami is approaching holding in bis
right hand a golden candlestick.
On the four walls was depicted the Vessan-
tara birth-storj, and next his birth in Thusitft
( 21 )
heavpn. whoDce a^ain he was bep^otten of KId^
SudtlhoJana in tb^ womb of Queen Mabaoc^ja
and was brought forth into the arms of god?,
after which he made his Great Renuneii^ion,
and on his eleaming throne under the sacred
B6 attained Buddhahood ; and, seated on the
AVhite Throne of Sakra};!^ he preached his
Abhidharma to the gods, and after receiTing
the offerings of the gods and Brahma<» be
descended bj the divine stair to the SaVja
citj ; — all this was pictured in gilt.
Outside the great wall of the vibare were
several preaching-halls : to the west of this was
the residence of the Sanga Ri'iji ; the dining^
and preaching-halls were adorned in diverse
fashions with gilding. Oae room was Lung
with awnings and curtains embroidered with
gold whilst the floor was covered with vaiious
precious carpets. There were vases arranged
in rows filled with flowers, whilst above were
hung circular lamps. On two thrones on either
side were placed two priestly fanE; the hardies
of these were made of elephants' tusks, the
ivory of which was sawn very fine like the leaves
of the kuS'kuis, and woven with red velvet SDd
thin strips of ^^old and silver like rushes to form
the leaf of the fan. Two holy priests stood on
either side making obeisance to where the
Singa Raja was. behind a curtain curiouslj
embroidered with i^old was a throne on which
the Sanga Raja himself was seated. His face
was screened by a fan of golden-hued bird's
plumes which he held in his right hand. We
were led in at his command to make our
obeisance to him and to acquire merit. After
we had made suitable offerings to him we were
served with betel and arecanut, and were gra- 21
ciously praised by him for the faithful devotion
( 22 )
to the Triple Gem which had brought us on
this toilsome but blessed voyage across the
dangerous sea. He was also pleased to say that
priests would be seni to accompauj us back to
Lanka.
Surroundinof this spot were several houses
occupied bj a vast numb?r of priests and
S:'imaneras, devotees of either sex wfio observe
Dasasil, as well as a crowd of pious and courtly
folk who provided daily offerings.
After all this V7e were taken back to our
halting-place in the evening. Eight days later,
being Mondav the eighth day of the waning
moon, two officers came and accompanied us
to a vibare which was full of priests' houses ;
here we saw a building: of three stages the tiles
on the roof of which were gilt and appsarfd as
a mass of hinihiriya flowers. In front of this
were two golden djigahas ; having made our
obeisance to the&e, we rested a short time in a
hall hpre, after which we werf» invited to a two-
storied hall where we weie received with every
mark of respect by the second tut-king and
several Ministers of State and were entertained
with our attendants at a feast and subsfquently
with betel and arecanut. Then several dancers
in various gold-worked costumes were brought
in to sing and dance before us, after which we
were taken back to our resting place.
On the mornint? of the next day two officerg
came from the palace and touk us on horseback
to the town ; we arrived at a street one side
of which was occupied by two storied buildings
and variously gilt elephant stalls ; on the other
side were similar horse stables. It is impossible
to give the number of horses and elephants.
( 23 )
male and female, that were here; the street was
entirely occupied by tbe stables and stalls, and
there was no dwelliDg-bou^e at all ; we rested
in a hall on the side where the ht r&e stables
were.
As the Was season was now drawing to a
close a Chivara Katina Fuja had been ordered 03
by the king: for this day at the great vihiir^
of Kojayoth Ratr.'i a'na. In this vil.are are
multitudes of gilt imajjes of the Buddha and a o^
host of priests and Samarera*^. We saw the
procession, and this was the manner of it :—
First there came, mounted on caparisoned
elephant?, a body of men with gaily-T7orked
flags, richly dressed with Siamese hats of white
resemblinir silver KaraiaZuwas on their heads,
and swords by their s'des ; a similar band
mounted on horses followed ; next came in
succession a host with swords in gilt scabbards:
another »vith eilt bows, their quivers tluog
over their necks ; anc tber s'milarly armed, with
guns on their shoulders and powder pouctej
at their sides ; anotl er b.ind similarly dressed
witli various kinds (^f arms ; then a band cairy-
iu^ dJiojas 3.udi patdkas on ^\\i staves; a band
of powerful men with tjilt clubs ; another with
swords in scabbards woiked with silver ; an-
other with swords ; a similar band with instra-
ments of muiic — trumpets, horns, fifes, lutes,
drums lar^^e and small, all playing to;j(Biher.
AI:ng with these were two richly capa uoned
elephants with cLimaras hung b-hind tneir
ears andbowd.hs on their backs; wiihiu each
was a Minister of State seated, huirting in his
two hands a gold salver on which were placed
robes of the finest yellow silii: above were
held worked fl«g?, sesat, and spear^j, two of
( 24 )
each, while on the two sides walked two
fema'e flephants carryinor three men each.
The officer who came next in similar fashion
carried the priestly necepsaries on a q;old salver.
A num\:er of beautiful bojs followed on a
she-slephant covered with gold-worked cloths ;
these carried the ^ilt swords, betel trays,
chains, pendants, and goH bracelets of these^
two officers.
Next came a large crowd on foot armed
with swords and the five kinds of weapons
carrying flags and umbrellas, followed by a
tusked elephant almost hidden under its gilt
trappings, the gaps being covered with button
flowers, marigolds, dxinuke wetake, sajtu, the
25 white and red lotus, and water lilies, carrying
in its howdah a Minister of State who bore a
set of robes and the priestly necessaries ; on
either side rode two officers accompanied by
seven men carrying sesat spears and flags. The
minister's a'tendanr boys, variously dressed,
followed carrying his 8word and spear and
other ornaments. After that another throng
as before.
[The writer n^-xt proceeds to describe five
other ministeis who followed in similar state]
Next, walking four abreast and carryins:
gold-worked flags, came a band of men hold-
iner four strings so that their order might not
be disturbed. Then came a row of elephants
with and without tusks, male and female, with
trappings of unheard-of splendour, carrying
sets of robes and the priestly necessaries and
all manner of cffering^s. Next came two great
Officers of State employed in the inner palace,
with the Master of the Chariots, the Custodian
( 25 )
of the Swcrd of State, two Keepers of the
Crown Jewels, two Officers of the R^yal Eetel
Boi, the two Chief Officers of the Treasurj,
two Admirals of the Great Bfmts, two Masters
•f the Horse, two of the King's Physicians,
two Officers who were in el arge, the one of
the stores of copper, brass, tin, timber, horns,
irorj, white and red sandahvnc d, of the villages
which p-oduce them, and < f ihe men employed
in their service, the other of the loyul rice and
betel villare?, and of th ir tenant?, — all these
came on elephants holding with both hacd^ on
golden trays their (ffeings of robes and other
necessa»ies as described before, each accom-
panied by his vasials. Bahind came a host of
hundreds and th usanJs of devotee?, male and
female, carrying on their heads robes and
offering:?. Next came the two second / nu-
Eiijas, carried on the nec\s of stalwart men in
two couch-t-haped thrones with a railing of
irory, adorned with gold and rows of perls,
and set with mas:ni6c9nt orems ; above their
heads w^re carriel ten i»esat, and tley were
followed by a hobt armed with the five kir ds of
weapon*^. N»xt, in the fi^^t of two similarly
adorned thrones, was borne on the shoulders
of stout warriors the Great Officer of State to
whose hands are entrusted all the affairs of
Siam, and who is called the Uva Rr<jjurux6. 23
Above him were carried five sesat, and behind
him was a band with umbrellas and swords.
In the second throne WiS tbe second sub-king
carried in similar state. Next came the great
StHte E'ephant ; the whole of its body was the
colour uf copper, arid it was covered with full
trappinors of gold ; on each side of it were
carried four sesat and four fl^gs ; ei^ht trays of
gold tilled with peeled tugar lar.e, ripe jak,
and plantains were carried for its food ; its
( 26 )
ittendants — elephants with and without tusks,
male and female — followed ; on them rode
men carryinp: flags. A ^ast number of offering's
to the Buddha were presented to the priests
with the robes and priestlj necessaries. The
Siamese officers told us that by the rojal com-
mand we too were to share in the merit acquired
bj this great Ka/hina Pinkama, and of all the
other religious seryices which his illustrious
majesty had ordained in his great devotion to
the Triple Gem.
After this we were taken back to our
halting-place.
This dPRcription is taken from the account
giv^n by Siddamparam Chetty, who was at-
tached to U3 as interpreter, and who knew the
details well : a considerable portion, both of
what he related to us and what we personally
saw, has been omittpd to avoid the risk of
appearing to relate the incredible.
On the night of Tuesday, about fourteen
hours before dawn, two noblemen came from
the palace and informed us that h rpligious
27 torch procession was coming down the river for
us to see ; and this is the description of the
same. Tall bamboos were set up at the vibaras
on either bank of the river of Siam ; these
^'^ere bent down, and on them were bung gilt
f rcular lampsjand lamps of various other kinds.
The king himself, his son the prince, the second
king, and the Uva Rajjuruvo came in the gilt
royal barge?, on which were erected alcoves with
curtains and awningR of various coloured cloths ;
these boats were fitted witli gold and silver
stands holding lighted candles of wax and
sweet-scented oils; a host of noblemen followed
( 27 )
ID similarly illuminated boats. There were also
lamps made of red and white paper shaped like
lotus flowers, with wax candles fixed in their
cup3 ; myriads of these beyond all counting
were floating down the river. Fireworks of
Tarious devicea were also cast into the water ;
these would travel underneath for some time
and then burst into tongues of flame in all
directions, with an explosion as of a jingal ;
the whole surface of the water appeared paved
with fire. There were also dancers in gilt,
clothes in boats, singing and dancing to the
music of drums.
Next, the priests residing within the city and
in the vibaras on either bank of the river were
presented with offeringfs, with robes, and the
priestly necessaries, the boats which carried
them forming an unbroken procession.
Thi« solemnity was observed on the thirteenth
day of the increasing moon of the month
Binara, on the full-moon day, on the first,
seventh, and eighth days of the waning moon,
and on the new moon, when the Was season
come to a close. It was explained to us that
this festival has been observed from time
immemorial by the piou^ sovereigns of Aj6ih-
yapura year after year in honour of the sacred
footprint, the relics of the Buddha, and of that
other footprint which at the prayer of the
Naga king the Lord had in his lifetime im-
printed on the sands of the river Nerbudda.
On the afternoon of Wednesday two oflicers
brought us in boats everything that was re-
quired for a &imilar offering, with a message
from the king that we too should celebrate suck
an offering with our own hands. We ac-
cordingly went with them and lit lamps which
( 28 )
were floated down the stream, and lurnt fire-
works ; similar ceremonies were performed bj'
U3 the following Thursday and Friday.
On the seventh day of the solar month Thula,
being Wednesday, in the morning, two officera
came and accompanied u^ in boats to near the
the palace of the Uva Rajjuruio. Theie, in si
two-staged octagonal hall hung with cloths of
diverse kinds, amonr gorgeous gold worked
carpets stretched (n the floor, was the sub-king
himself seated on a marvellously wrought royal
throne. Beautifully engraved swords of solid
gold, trays and boxes of gold and silver, and
various royal ornaments were placed on either
side ; there was a golden curtain drawn, and oh
this side of it the great ministrrs werft ou their
knees making obaisance Here we were ushered
in and introduced; the sub-kin ' icqu'red after
our welfarp, and betf^l was handt d round on trays.
We were then shown some books that were not
to be found in L^nhii at the time ; we gazed at
the«n in reverence, bowinir our heats bcfore^
the holy paper, and nere graciously informed
that these books and the priests would be givea
to u«. Next a groat feast of rice was serred.
for us and our attendants after which w#
received permission to withdraw, . -
28 ' On the eleventh day of the solar month
Thula, being Sunday, three oflBcers came from
the palace in the morning and informed us that
they had received orders to accompany us to
29 worship the Sacred Footprint at the sp.t knowa
as Swarna Pancha^ha Maha Pahath. We ac-
cordingly procceeded up the river in boats^
admirinnr tbe various vi!aras, gilt dagabas,
priests housep, villages, fields, gardens of jak^
cocoanut, arecinuts, sug^r-cane, and plantaia
( 29 )
situated op either bank ; we trave'led a whole*
daj and night, and at dawn on Mondaj we
mounted on some she-elephaots carrying gilt
howdabs and proceeded accomp^ni»^d bj our
attendants similarly mounted. By evening we
arrived within si^ht of the pinnacl-* of the gilt
daT'aba erected on thia pacred site, when we
hastened down from our elephants and
proceeded two miles on foot, resting in a 30
hermit's cell in the neighbourhood of this
augu-t spot. The next day being 'I u^sday, the
eigrhth day of the lunar month, we offered wor-
ship at the holy shrine. The following is a
description of the same: — From the r ver of
Siam to thia place was a contir uoua line of
Tihii "as, halls, villagep, fi^lda and gardens; at
intervals were large parks adorned with tanks
and lakes and with shady grove? of mangoes;
among these could be procured food and drink
and 8W Pt things to help the traveller on his
way. Where the road came to an end a great
range of mountains rose on the right; this was 31
formed by S^ichcha Handle na Parvata and the
caves where the hermits li es ; at their prayer
the Sacred Foot had been imprinted as if it
were in a mass of soft clay to the depth of
about four inches right up to the «nkle, showing
the 216 auspicious signs, with the 6ve toes sepa-
rately marked. Enclosing this t.» the breadtb
ot about a span were three rows of petals
of pure rold, the inner rim set with priceless
gems, the whole being covered with seven
curtains curiously worked with gold. In the
middle of the square structure w^re f-tone ^teps
faciU'T in every direction, and covered over with
plates of silver to that th3 joining could not be
seen. Above the pacred footstep and made of
solid gold was a pagoda supported on suitable
pillars, forming a shrine. At the four corners
( 30 )
were placfd four jjo^^^^n st'^iif, aud from above
hun;z four bunches of precious stones like
bunches of ripe arecaouts in siz?. Go the edge
of the roof lunsr ropes of pearls, and on tho
point of the spire was set a sapphire the size of
a lime fruit. Within and overshadowinor the
footprint like a cnnopy, there hungr from the
middle of the «:pire a ful'-blo vn lous < f gold,
in the middle of \Nhich was sf^t a ruby of similar
siz'*. Chariots, ship?, el^phints, and horses
with their riders, all made of j;old, and of a
suitable s'z^^, where placed on a golden support
■jibove the silver pavement. This was ^lung on
wires of i^old, to which were attached ornaments
set with pearls the s'ze of the nelli fiuit, as well
f s other jewelled ornaments, rinors and chains.
By some skilful device all this could be moved
along: the silver pavement. There were rows
of vas°s with lotus, water-li'ies, sa^ff, dunuke,
{(Ida, f<oakendaf and jasmine flowers, as well as
flowHrino^ plants. Above this shrine, which
rivalled in its bh z» of splendour the abode of
the ^od*, and four^quare with it, was a struc-
ture of Hl*-v<^n stages. Its pavemen*: was of
silver, while the four walls were adorned with
^ildin^ and various paintir.or? • the ceiling was
also ^ilt, and above the shrinn and at the four
corners were hung up five large gilt sesaL la
the intervals were large full blown lotus flowers
with sapphires, the ^ize of lime fiuits, set in
their hearts. From the corners hung a network
of pearls, while five bunches of various gems
the ^ize of large ripe a»-pcanuts bung at the
corners and the middle. Within, against the
western wall, was rait^ed a large gilt throne ,on
which rested a gilt facsimile of the sacred foot-
print. Two doorvS fdc d the south and north;
the doors and the doorposts were covered over
with plates of gold ; the former were in pantl<<ij
( 31 )
the first adciK^d wit^ the fiorure of a Bramah
carrjingr a .^esat, the sec-^nd of a Sukiaja
blowing a conch, the thiid of a Sujam dp«*^y
with a cbiimara, the fourth of a Santhusita god
with a jewelled fun, — all with their bands
clasped above their heads in adoration. Above
the door were hung two golden curtaine.
At intervals on the outer face of the walls
were square openings set with glass, in which
were arranged figures of lions, bears, elephants,
horses, cattle, inakaravas, dragons, bwans,
serpents, and kinJuras, &c., pUited with gold.
The columns of the verandah outside arid the
tiles on the roof were gilt, and the floor covered
with sheets of white lead. The various stages
were separated by by short walls supported nt
the corners by figures of the Sataravaran deities
armed with swords, while those of other gods
and Brahmas carrying ( fferings and the five
kind<* of lotus occupied the gaps. The Spires
terminating' the roof were adorned with gilt
five-headed onake- and dragons plated with gold
lifting up their i^reat hoods on higb, while
alouu' the edges of the rocf heads of snakes and
dragons plated with gold were arranged alter-
nately ; in thp intervals vvere figures of swans,
peacocKs, panots, dove?, pigeons, and other
birds, all gilt and carrying lotus flowers in their
beaks, in such profusion a* almost to hide the
gilt tiles. On ihe walls were also gilt images of
kinduras and tagas blowing horn?.
All the eleven stages were similarly gilt, and
on th^ extreme point of the central spire was
Mxed a gem the size of an orange. The wall 32
surrounding this was of various kind of
alabaster ; at the four corners and at the sides
of the four gates were fixed twelve large lamps
( 32 )
of alabaster shaped like kara^if/uwas, «vliile 380
smaller ones adorned the walls. There were
also fixed round about figures of elephants,
horses, lions, bears, crocodiles, snakes, makaras,
and deer, all of the same material and in due
proportion : these served a<* lamp^ the ligrhts
being placed inside them. There were also here
and there fie:nre8 of yaksha^, la'^shas, and
bhairaj« ', serving as door-guardians at the
eight points.
Lower down the mountain was a cave, in
which was a gilt image of the Sichcha Bind,
hana hermit. Close bj the fi^ht of stone steps
on the north side stood two large stone pillars
on which were fixed stout iron rods; to these
were secured a pole of the size of a large
arecanut tree cased in copper and yilt, support-
ing an umbrella also of copper gilt. At the
north and south gates down either side the
stone steps ran two snakes with bodies like
largR palmirah trees made of white lead ; where
they reached the ground their huge five -fold
hoods made of bronze are raised aloit with such
a fierce aspect as would s trike terror in anj
beholder.
Encircling this spot and outside the walla
there was a large number of sesat of various
coloured cloths; lower down and towards the
rising sun was a pilt ('a^^aba with relica of
the Buddha; on its spie was designed in gilt
the six-huea halo of the lord blazing forth.
To the west, on the top of the mountain whtre
ha had alighted from the skj, was another
similar da^aba ; around it were several images
as well as B.j^oija-ge, a preaching-hall, a life-^^'zad
statue of the Buddha, two viharas containing
mauj images, ani a large dining-hall on the
( 38 )
walls of which were illustrated incidents at the
impressing of the Sacred Foot. There was also
a tank of lead filled with cool svater. Lower
down again in a larp^e cave to the j-outh-east
were three more gilt d*j;abas.
Such was this marvellous place; none but
the architect of the ^cds himself could have
designed it.
There were two gates, carefully secured with
keys and bolts and watched hj guards who
were appointed according to the various
watches. Here and there among the caves
were seats fashioned for meditation ; on all
sides were priests houses of two and three
stages, adorned with gilding; these were
crowded with holy pripsts and b'araaneras, and
pious devotees of either sex, while numerous
tanks and wells of cool water adorned the spot.
After performing our religious exercises at
this holy place on tbo morning of Tuesday,
which was the fir!?t quarter of the moon, the
Siamese officers informed us that th«re were
several other sites to be visited, and accom-
panied us a distance of about IJ gavvas ; here
we worshipped at the innumerable images we
found at the viharas and caves. One of the
latter wound about in three directions and con-
tained many images; but the darkness was so
intense that we were obliged tc conduct our
worship by torchlight. The caves and vihiras
here were to be counted by the thousand ; gilt
dagabas crowned the summits of the mountains;
at all these we worshipped and did our
obeisance to the holy priests who had retired
to live among them. Wherever we turned, at
far as the eye could reach, on every level rock
( ^^ )
and cave, there appeared a gilt (?i^aba or an
image, and towards all these we worshipped.
Round about were streams and mountain
torrents of cool water and tanks and lakes
with the banks carefully built up with stone
and mortar ; araonpf these we wandered, resting
in delight beneath the shadow of the loftj trees,
till we had made a circuit of this holj spot.
We celebrated worship ajjain this night and
listened in the preachin:^-hall to a learned
priest well versed in the Dharma, who dis-
coursed from the commentaries on the lives
of the great difciples of the Lord. The next
day we worshipped asrain b.ith morning and
evening, -■ nd also again on Friday morning,
after which we bid farewell to the Great High
Priests and the other priests who abode here,
S3 and imrcoa'ately b^gan the descerit^ accom-
panied hj ihc Siamese officers ; when we had
left the ^/.ored precincts 1 ehiud we mounted
our elephr.nt ' and proceeded till we reached tht
river, wbei') "^o joinod the boats. We Iravelled
all tijron>;h ^'mq inght, and ab)ut eight peyai
before dawn on Saturday we reached our
halting-place.
On i\Jonday morning three officers took us in
boats up the river till we came to a vast stretch
of fields. Here in innumerable running streamt
of cool water were growing the five kinds of
lotus, — emhulf upul, olu, nelun, and maha net;
encircled by these were three or four thousand
amunams of field and gardens, among which
we wandered till sunset. The grain was in
every stage: the young shoot, the ripening^
ear, the flower, the tender corn, and some
already mown. At last, when we had reached
one of its boundaries, we were told in reply to
( 35 )
our inquirea that this stretch of fields extended
as far as the city of Ava. We then made our
vray by a crosa road across the fields to the rirer
and rowed over to the western bank.
Thirteen fathoms further on was a spot
where long ago a series of the kings of Siaoi
had erected a three-storied temple with a erreat
throne on which was placed a recumbent statue
of the Buddha, with relics as well as a standing
figure; but the river had burst the pmbank-
ments, and the flaod-water had reached within
two f ithoms of the temple gate.
And go it camp to pass that when his present
maj'^sty visited the spot in the twenty-fifth
year of his anointing as king, he was greatly
distressed, and exerting his royal zeal he had
the image safelv carried by his strong men with
the help of variou-? engines .1 distance of 80
fathoms to a spot where lie Lad erected
a new resting-place for its repose; over
this he also built a temple oi' three stages,
which was adorned with giMIng, and from
the gate to the river over the 80
fathoms that the image had been carried he
erected a covered passage of one stage ; he also
built a preaching-hall and a new vihare, and set
up various other images, after which he cele-
brated a great pinkama : all this was told ua
by the Sianaese officers,
* After worshiping at this place and paying
our respects to the priests we started down the
river, admiring the numerous viharas and
priests houses on either bank and the villages
with their teeming population, arriving at our
'I'esting-place in the evening. '
( 36 )
On TueBdaj'evenine: three officers came from
the palace with a large supply of robes and
pri- -tiy necessaries, and informed ua that his
niF.j »tj was most favourably disposed towards
us and. in order that he too might share in the
merit which we had acquired by our pilgrimage
to the Sicred Footstep, had ordered a quantity of
the coins c.illed Ticcal to be distributed among
us; he also sent us much eatables and drink-
ables, with fruit, betel, and arecanut, lime, Ac.
We wpre directed to cffer the robes ourselves to
the priests and so acqnir^^ merit. Accordingly
we proceeded in boats to the vihire called
Wat Nun Ok, and worshipped the golden
Buddhas there, and off-red the robes to the
Chief Priest and three others who resided here,
and acquired merit by making our obeisance to
them, and afterwards returned home.
On the twenty-ninth day of the month Tula,
being Thursday, two officers came in the
morning and proceeded with us in boats till we
reached the street, where we entered horse
carriages. We alighted when we approached
the palace and waited in a mandajpd till our
arrival was announced, after which we were led
to the hall of the sub king. Here we were
received by the king, I he prince, and the
sub-king, with the greatest kindness, and
presents, were also bestowed on up, the
Arachchies, and our attendants and we were
shown the present-^ destined for Lanka; we
were also informed we would receive permis-
sion in a few days to start home, after which
we returned accompanied by the officers.
On Monday, the fourth day of the solar
month Vrishchika, two officers came and accom-
panied us in boats to the great yihar^ called
!-]
( 87 )
Talaramw, which is built on the bank of the-
river. Here we worshipped before the tjolden
imag;e of the Buddha aud the dai^aban, and
made offerings of robes and the priestly
necessaries to the priests who had been
appointed to proceed to Cejlon. These were
Upali Mahii Najaka, Tliero, Arva lv;uni Maha.
Navaka Th^io, the Anu Mril a The 6 the Maba
Th^.oj who read the Knn>n»avncha and who
prepare for ordination, nnd »^m M-^ba TLotoj
Indrajozassa, Chandra Jo a-^ a, Kc)tthi^a,Kiyavu,
Bojuna, Tbuluvan, 'IJ on-uv nnana, Janna,
Prakjavuthan, Lokon, D^ ut, Pr»-ni^lc, Premi,
Kruvdkya, bein^ twenty-one 1 be "s and eight
Sama» eras. After this we were tiken back to
our halting-place.
On the morninof of Thurpday two officers
came and took us to the palace. We halted
for a ?hort time at a maudafe while our arrival
was being announced, after which we were
presented and received with great kindness by
his majesty the king, the prince, and the sub-
king ; we were informed that the presents
destined for Ceylon would be ready to start •
in a short time and then were given permission »
to withdraw, when we returned again to the
same macdape for a short interval. And this
was the manner of our departure therefrom.
From the palace gate and as far as the landing--
place at the river bank the two sides of the •
street were decorated with cloths embroidered
with gold, various scented flowers and fruits,
and examples of the painter's skill. Next, •
heralded by the five kinds of music, came the
rojal message -carried in a gold litter on either
side of which were held gold-worked sSsat and «
flags. A new golden image of Buddba came »
next; borne in like fashion and accompanied bj^'
( 88 )
itesat, cha'marai^, gold-worked fl^g^s, and music.
The flacred books and various offerings followed,
guarded on either aide by a band of warriors
armed with the five kinds of weapons. CTpali
Mahil Th(To came next, carried in a palanquin
curiously worked with gold, and followed by
many offerincjs ; next was Arya Muni Mabsi
Thero in similar state. These two were accom-
panied by the other Tbcroj and Samaneras
destined for LmVu, all of whom had been pre-
sented with various gifts ; a band of warriors
followed them preceding the presents that were
to be sent to La?ili;i which were conveyed in
gilt chests. Three officers bad been appointed
to proceed to La^ik:! as ambassadors, and
numerous honours had been conferred on them.
Two of them came next in two litters shaped
like beds and richly adorned with ornaments of
solid gold. These were carried on the shoulders
of men, while the third rode behind on a richly
caparisoned horse. We who had been gazing
at this rare sight with delight, were now
directed to enter the horse carriages in which
we joined the procession. The gorgeous decora-
tions on either side of the road, the vibaras and
crowds of priests, the masses of men, women,
and children gay in jewels and gold, who
thronged to gaza at us, cannot be described in
words. We proceeded thus as far as the river,
lost in admiration at the splendour of the
crowded street. Here we found awaiting us the
royal barges, decked with the heads of lions,
bears, elephants, kinduras, makaras, crocodiles,
serpants buffaloes, deer, peacocks, parrots,
pigeonp, dragons, and rilkshas ; whilst in the in-
tervals were carved treep, creepers, and plants,
all gilt. On their decks were constructed booths
of gold-worked cloths gaily adorned, and similar
curtains were hung around, while various, flags
( 39 )
and umbrellas were fixed at stem and stern.
On board these barges were conveyed the
image and books and rojal message as well as
the priests. The king, the royal queens, the
sub king, the princes, as well as the nobles
with their wives, accompanied us in similar
boats; after them came a host of devotees of
either sex and of citizens in boats in an un-
broken stream, the boats being secured in rows-
by cables so as to move in line- In various
boats dancing and singing were going on, while
numerous drums kept up a continuous volume
of sound. Thus we proceeded down the river
till we reached the large new ship, which with
its gilding within and without appeared like
some ship of the gods. This was the vessel
destined by his majesty for the use of the
priests who were sailing for La?ila. So on
Thursday, the first day of the increasing moon
of the month II, about ten hours after dawn,
the sub-king bore the golden image reverently
on his own bead within the ship, and placed
it on a throne surrounded by gold embroidered
hangings of various colours ; the holy books and
the king^'s message were similarly disposed of,
and the presents and offerings were stowed
away. The priests were then taken on board
amidst cries of "Sadhu '* and the firing of guns
and the accompaniment of music, and were
followed by the three Siamese ambassadors who
were proceeding to La^ita accompanied by
many presents. A message was also conveyed
to us from the king, giving us permission to
depart and also directing that Wilbagedara
Muhandiram Eala alone, who was well known
to the Ther63 and ambassadors — he had been
to Siam on a previous occasion — should travel
in the Siamese ship. The rest of us were also
4r(i<lvieBted to go on board the ship, bat as the
( ^ )
number of the Siamese attendants and the
quantity of their baggage was e:reat, we were
to continue our journey by the Hollander's ship.
Three Siamese nobles were also ordered to
accompany U3 as fas as the seaport of Siam.
Accordingly we started in great state, and a&
we proceeded down the river the priests who
lived in the vihAras on the bants, with the
chief men of the villages and the people them-
selves crowded round in boats so that the river
3i could not be seen, bringing with them presents
for the prie-ts who wpre starting for Lanlj/i.
We arrived in thi;^ manupr at the temple called
35 Wat Thon Lak Dban, where the chief people
provided presents and robes to be offered by
U9 to the priests accompanying us so as to
acquire merit ; while at the same time we were
entertained at a feast.
When we drew near Bingkok we were
similarly received and treated ; the same
occurred at Amsterdam, where we arrived next;
at last on the afternoon of Friday, the fourteenth
day of the solar month VriBchika, beingr the
eighth day of the increasinj? half of the lunar
month, we reached the harbour of Siam. Im-
mediately the four of us who were to travel by
the Hollander's ship proceeded on board witb
our attendants, and the two ships anchored side
by side, while the luggage meant for tbf^ Siamese
ship was taken there, wherF» too Wilba^edara
Muhandiram proceeded with <^ne servant and'
an attendant soldier. On Wednesday the*
fourth day of the solar month Dhanu, at the
twenty-third hour of the mornings the two
ships hoisted sail, and we steered out of the
36 harbour, the Siamese ship leading. Oa Thurs-
day this later disappeared from our sigbt^andi
( 41 )
though we .Tere greatlj disturbed in mind
about her, we sailed on till on the afternoon of
Monday, the twentj-third day of the solar
month, we reached the harbour of Malacca and
cast anchor. '
Six days later, on Saturday morning, three
officers came from the fort and took us on land
in a sloop, where we were conducted with much
ceremony to our halting place. Later we were
taken inside the fort, where the Governor and
other officers exerted themselves to allay our
anxiety and assured us that the ship would
arrive in safety. They also fitted out a sloop
to go and make inquiries, and sent despatches
regarding the matter to Batavia in a ship. But
though we questioned the captains of all the
vessels that came from foreign parts, we could
obtain no information whatever ; accordingly
we resolved to wait till we did get some definite
news. We waited on till the next year, which
was the 6'aka year 1G74, till on the thirteenth
day of the solar month Yrisabha, the captain of
a newly-irrived ship came to our halting-place
and informed us that the Siamese ship had lost
her masts and could not proceed on her voyage,
and had consequently been towed back by
several boats to Siam itself.
As we heard that a sloop trading with
Siam was lying idle in the harbour, we consulted
the Governor and started her captain off with
a letter. We waited till Saturday the tenth
day of the solar month Dhanu, when the
Governor sent u^ by an offif^er from the fort
a letter which Wilbagedara Muhandiram Rila
had forwarded. The purport of this letter was
that His Majesty the Kins: of Siam had graci-
ously bidden them when taken before him not
( 42 )
to be disbeartened at tbeir miscbance ; tbe
priests destined for Lanka, tbe presents, and
tbe tbree Siamese ambassadors would start
again in tbe montb of Wak from tbe district
of Miri^ija, and reacb Lanka tbia year itself;
tbe ambassadors wbo were waitinsj at Malacca
sbould accordinfjly by directed to start bome:
in obedience to wbich command tbis letter was
written.
We accordingly went on board on tbe tbir-
teentb day of the solar montb, beinpr Friday,
and on Saturday we steered out of tbe barbour,
and on tbe evening of tbe fifteentb day of tbe
golar montb Makara, beinsf Monday, we landed
at tbe Castle of Colombo. Tbe Governor received
XLi wiib great consideration and arrangjed quar-
ters for us near tbe cburcb at Borella, where
we remained for twenty-eight dayp. In tbe
meantime be sent two Mudaliyars with a letter
to Siriwardbanapura ; these went and delivered
tbeir message before tbe great nobles there,
who conveyed the same to the knowledge of bis
gracious majesty, when the Mudaliyars received
great rewards. A^oreover he gave orders for
the Padikiira Moho/fAla, De^Zigama Mubandiram
Kula, and Pusse'la Muhandiram Rala to proceed
to Colombo and accompany tbe newlylanded
noble? back. Thpy accordingly came to Colombo
and delivered their message to the Governor,
who received them with every mark of honour,
and accompanied them from tbe castle. Six
days latf^r, on the eighth day of the solar
month Kumbh^i, which is the fourteenth day
of the waning moon of the montb Nav>im, we
arrived at the capital and were presented before
our gracious and ever-victorious king. We
were received with great kindness, and were
anxiously questioned as tD whether the priests
( 43 )
were actually coming.
On the tenth day of the solar month Vnsch-
chika messeng;er3 arrived with the news that
the ship conveying the Siamese priests had cast
anchor at the harbour of Trincomalee on Mon-
day the fifth day of the increasingr moon of the
month Wesak, in the ^Saka year 1675, which is
Cilled ^Srimukha. No sooner w s this glorious
message received then our gracious kinfj, the
mighty ruler of Lanka, gave orders that palan-
quins fitted with cushions and mattresses should
be despatched, as well as a supply of robes of
fine cloth, with sweetmeats and rice cakes to
help them on the way : he also sent elephants
to head the procession and a richly caparisoned
tusker with a golden litter for conveying the
king's message, with a body of trumpeters,
drummers, and other musicians. The following
were entrusted with this work, viz., ^telapola,
Slaha Adikarama; Angammona, Dissave of
Matalc ; Hulangamuwa, Dissave of Uda Palata;
£l!epola Kahande Moho/^ala, the KotZituakku
Lekama ; ^llepola Moho//jila, the VerZikkilra
Lekama; Kahande Moho^^ala, the Kuruwe
L^'rama; Wiyalla Mohc/^iila, Muhandiram,
who was in charge of the gabada^ama of
illadulu ; and flarasgama Muhandiram Esila, of
the Yidikkiiva. Lekama. I'hese accordingly
started for the harbour and accompanied thence
the priests, the three Siamese ambassadors, the
king's letter, and the presents with every mark
of honour. The letter was placed on the golden
litter which was carried by the tusked elephant
with jewelled trappings ; the holy ima^ts and
books were carried in state accompanied by
flags and umbrellas; while Upale Maha Terun-
Danse, with the seventeen other Theros and
seven Samaneroe, travelled in palanquins richly
( -14 )
fitted with mats and pillows, while the Siamese
ambassadors followed in andonis. So they
proceeded, halting: at 01a2amuwa, Gantale,
Alutw^wa, Minihirija, Gon.'iwela, and Nalanda,
On reaching Oo7apo]anuwara five noblemen
proceeded to meet them, viz., Dumbara Dissavc
ofMjUale; Angammana Moho//a)a, the Maha
Leicama ; Moladanf?,!, Ea/e EA'a of Yatinuwara
^llepola Kahandawe Mohof/ala, the Pa^fikara
Lc'kama, and Willu^edara Kuc?a Muhandiram
Eala of the same Lekama,
These went and made their obeisance to the
priests and saw that they were properly lodged,
and the image, the books, the rojal letter and
presents deposited in a place of safety ; after
this the ambassadors were also conducted to
their lodginQS with great ceremony. Later
.GheVapola, Maha Adikarama, Hulangamuwa,
Dissave of Uda Palata, and the aforesaid chiefs
returned to the capital and had an audience
with the kinor. A few days later TOuwela
muhandiram Ea^.a and Eittaliyadde Muhandiram
E.i'a were sent to Go^'apolanuwara to inquire
after the well-being of the priests and ambas.
sadors, and to report the same to the king with,
out delay. Later orders were given to Sama-
rakkoddy, the U(fagampaha Adigar, Dodanwela,
Dissave of Uva, and Miwature Mohoffala, the
Attapattu Lekama, to proceed to Goc^apolanu-
wara and escort thence the holy imager, the
books, the king's letter and presents, together
with the priests, to the capital. This they did
and accompanied them as far as Alutgantota,
where they halted. The next day being Friday
the seventh day of the waninsr half of the month
Poson in the 5'aka year 1675, his eracioua
majesty himself, lord of the earth, who is res-
plendent with every virtue, proceeded to the
( 45 )
Bodima/uwa by the side cf ihe river; here he
made bis obeisance to tbe priests and received
tbem witb all graciousness, and after pirit bad
been recited, thev were brought in tbe evening
to tbe Malwatte Vilae, wbere lodgings bad been
newly erected and adorned for them with all
speed ; here they were lodged, and orders were
given to provide tbem witb all necessaries. At
tbe same time tbe Siamese ambassadors with the
letter and presents were sent to tbe Bo^ambra
Tbanajama, where every honour was paid to
tbem and their wants attended to.
On tbe evening of thp secand diy of the solar
month Kataka, being Friday the thirtpenth day
of tbe lunar month, at the Malwatte ViLare,
Upali Maba Thero admitted one of the S;imane-
ros who bad accompanied him from Siam into
tbe Upasampadawa. On tbe night of Saturday
tbe full moon day of the month ^sala, at the
first watch, bis majesty, tbe lamp in tbe jewelled
ball of tbe Solar race, took bis seat in the preach-
ing-hall filled wita exultant joy and kindness,
and at bis rf qnest, which was addressed to UpMi
Maba Tbeio. Arja Muni Maba Thero, and the
other Tbeios^ Kobbyyakaduwe Uncanse, the
Nayaka Priest of tbe Uposataratna, Weliwiia
UnraQsu, Hulangamuwa Untanse, Bambara-
deniva Uncanse, Thibbotuwawe Unnjinse and
NavfnDc, tbe Nayaka Unnanst' of A-^giriya, were
admitted into the Upasampadawa. And thus
after many years tbi . feast of the Great Ordina-
tion which had so]<mg been neg:iected in Lanka,
was re-established once more amidst the rejoic-
ings of the populace, tbe triumphant noise of
drums, chanks, and the five kinds of music, and
tbe roar of cannon.
On tbe night of Tuesday the twentieth day of
tbe solar month the Audience Hall was adorned
with awnings and hangings of silk and gold
( 46 )
embroideries. And here our mightj king, the
lord of kinfje, seated on his throne, received with
all graciousness the three Siamese ambassadors
who brou<j;ht the letter and presents from their
king^. Thej were at the same time presented
with three chains and three fjold rings, three
embroidered tuppa/fies, three red and three yel-
low, an extrj one beins: siven to the ambassador
who carried the king's letter ; various presents
were also given to the attendants, and three
thousand ridia were distributed among them all.
After this Upiili Mahasa mi and the other Theros
who accompanied him were invited to worship
the Sacred Tooth and so acquire merit ; and
subsequently the ambassadors were allowed to
do likewise.
As for the king's letter, after the principal
nobles had met in the Audience flail, Weliwifa
Terunnnnsc caused it to be unwrapped by Tib-
bofuwawa Terunnanse; it was then wrapped up
again, and sealed and deposited in the treasury,
covering and all. As for the books that had
been received, they were paraded ound the
streets with great pomp in a golden litter placed
on the back of a tusker with jewelled trappings,
accompanied by the five kinds of music, after
which they were formally dedicated.
[Next follows the names of the priests, dif-
fering somewhat from the names already given.]
NOTES.
1. — Wilbagedara Muhandirara has recorded
the names of the sixty-six persons who composed
the mission ; they werp —
Pattepola Mohof/iVa, three Arachchies and
nine men (heivdyS) of his Lckama, and
five personal attendants,
fillepola Mohof/a^a, three Arachchies and
( 47 )
seven men of his Leiama, and one at-
tendant.
Irijagama Muhandiram. two Arachchies
and five men of his Wasama, and one
attendant.
Eittalijadde Muhandiram, one Arachchi
and three men of his Wiisama, and one
attendant.
WilliWedara Muhandiram, two Arachchies
and three men of his Wdsama, and two
attendants — a WahumpurajA and a
Ouraja.
In addition there were three trumpeter?, three
performers on the tambuniiva, five on the siiigd-
rama, and two on the Jwranewa*
2. — The message to the King of Siam was
written in Fali bj AVeliwi/a Sara/KitA.ira Ud-
nuuse of Malwatte Vib;irc ; thpre was also a
second letter addressed to the Saii^T^ Eaja.
3. — At Trincomalee the ambassadors were
housed in the Commander's flower garden.
4. — The Dutch ship that conveyed them was
named the " Yel trek."
5. — In Sumatra, W. tells us, gold, lead, and
the whetstone are found*
G. — At Malacca the royal letter was deposited
in a twc-stoned building attached to the Fiscal's
residence.
7 — Tbey started agrain in the month of Wesak,
Saka 1673; and sailed past Rio and Johore,
\9here ponamhra Siud minamhra (ambereris?) is
found ; " the robbers here," naively adds the
writer, perhaps referring: to tbe piratical Malays,
'*even siay people.'* Npxt they passed Pulu
Timung, Pulu Piang, Pulu Hovu, mere rocky
points in the sea, as well as Pahang, Kalantang,
Tranganu, Patani, which latter produc& gold,
lead, and camphor ; seme of them were reported
to be inhabited by cannibals ; thence past Cam-
( 48 )
bodjia to Siam,
8. — On rencMnor the harbour the captain and
KannedenijL* Arachchi of the Pa(?ikara Muhan-
diram Wtlsama were despatched to announce at
the Siamese capital the arrival of the embassy;
and twenty-four days later the rest landed,
0. — Amsterdam, the old Dutch factory near
the modern Paklat.
10. — Miiang : a district under a governor.—-
11. — Wat Aram: the spot is the Wat Prot
Sat, "the salvation of sentient beings;" the
ancient temple is still existing, and has been
repaired by the late king's brother. There is a
sacred well here, the water of which is supposed
to wasb away sins.
13- — "Puri" in Siam a provincial town, and
is not applied to the capital the old capital was
Sri Ayudhaya Maha Nag;ara.
11. — The money distributed among the Si7iha-
lese amounted to 700 ticals. — W.
Masam puva, also called Mayon a quarter of
a tical not Siamese. Tical is the foreign name
given to the Siamese coin of the largest deno-
mination, called Bat. Coins of smaller deno-
minations of the same round shape are salting
and fiiang, and bia, cowries the last being only
tokens,
15. — The elephant in the gilt stall opposite
the palace gate was the white elephaiit ; facing
it was the black elephant ; but the description
given in the translated version would appear to
relate to the red elephant, iiccording to Bald-
leus, the King of Siam was styled "Lord of the
Golden Thrones, also of the White, fled, and
Bound-tailed Elephants, three excellent draught
beasts which the highest god has given to none
otber."
( 49 )
16. — The custom of drawinij up the war
elephants in circles in front of the palaca also
prevailed at the Si?ihalese court.
17. — After thej had been granted an audience
the members of the mission were entertained
at a place named Maha-Sombath Kalan ; the
rooms were hun<Tf with awning^s and curtains.
Each ambassador was provided with three silver
trajs each ( or each three? ) fitted with fiftj-
one small s^old dishes, fi led with various dainties
forming the five courses of a feast.
18. — Vat Puthi Suwan, correctly Wat Buih
dhaiy 6 'ra 71— Aram a of the Heaven ot Buddha
(s'van — svarga), — J.
19. — Maba Dharmarama ( ? ) : Neither Siam-
ese nor Piili ; but there is a temple called Maha-
Dhatu, the principal one in the city ; from the
description and the fact that it was the seat of
the San 4a R'»ja, the two are probably identical.
In this temple was enshrined a solid gjold image
of great size, which was melted and carried away
by the Burmese. A bronze one remains to this
day in a state of decay. — J.
20. — Naputhan, or rather Na-pa-tan, **^the
paddy field of the burnt forest." The name is
still in existence. — J.
21.— The offerings made to the Saii^a Ruja
were :
220 pieces of red and \ Styli
yellow silk I Toothpicks ( metil )
30 red fans \ ]NJailpicks ( metal )
30 strmgs of prayer beads \ Lookmgs,-glasses
30 packets of needles i Cloves, nutmegs,
Arecanut cutter cinnamon
Chunam boxes ^^^ax caudles
Scissors 2 alms bowls
Razors I 1 ^'^^ ^^ cloth
22. — The second Pub-king must have been
( 50 )
" The Palace of the Rear Guard " (o^reat person-
ages are called bj the names of their residences),
"who is at the head of the Reserve Forces. But
more probiblj it wat one of the great ministers,
to judjje from the reception. — J.
23. — The Was season : the rainy season, when
the priests retire from forpsts into house?.
24. — Kujijoth Ratnarama : probably Wat
Jajawardhara^'ioia, one of the well known and
rojal temples, now in ruins.— J.
25. — No Minister of State would be employed
in carrying thinors even at a religious procession;
these were probably minor officers dre&sed as
Devas. — J,
26. — No sub kings are entrusted with affairs
of S'ate except of the War Department and in
bullrling defensive works in war time. The two
great ministers are of the Interior and War, or
of the North and South, having charge of the
Government of th^ Northern and Southern
Provinces respectively, and the latterof military
affairs in time of peace as well. — J.
27— This is really the «• Light Offering:," or
Padipa Puja performed on water twice at the
end of the Was season on the full moon of the
eleventh and twelfth months, and is continued
three days on each occasion. The middle day is
the full moon, on which the people indulge in
extravagance, in music, sinsring and playing
on the water, and make offerings of floating
lights and flowers and fireworks in miniature
temporary boats and vessels of all sorts. It is
in fjict a popular fete—^J.
28. — Only three ou^ of the five ambassadors,
viz., Ellepola Moho/Zala, Eittaliyadde Rala, and
Wilbagedara, went on the pilgrimage to the
Sacred Footprint ; they were accompanied by
seTenteen of their if Mi7e, whose names are also
stated, ^jcioa' ' '
( 51 )
Oa passing the first wall enclosing the sacred
site the pilgrims knelt and worshipped with their
foreheads touchiner the g^round; then thej passed
the copper umbrellas with stocks three spans ia
circumference, and up the stone steps with ser-
pents on either side to the first stage ; another
flight of stone steps brought them to the second
stage, which was sprinkled with sand. These sta-
ges appear to 1 ave run right round the mountain
peak. The next fl'ght was covered with lead,
and led to the last stage, which was similarly co-
vered. The imprint was of the right foot ; it
was enclosed in a building^ 14 carpenters' cubits
square and 18 fathoms high, while the shrine
over the imprint itself was 7 cubits high, raised
on pillars of gold. Wilbagedara also tfstifiea
to the extraordinary expenditure of gold over
the ornamentation of the temple.
Reference is made to this shrine by Bal-
dceus, who also gives a list of the auspicious
signs.
29. — The rock on which the footprint was
discovered had been named **Suwanna banphot:"
Fancliata is evidently pahhata, and mahipahatha
is maha prasat. Prasat is the corrupt Pali
prasdda, a building of from one to nine stories
with a djigaba-shaped top, like the Brazen Palace
at Anunidhapura. The now existing building,
called the mandape, has replaced the original
structure which was destroyed by lightning.— J.
30. — Native resthou es for pilgrims, which
abound to this day.— J.
31, — Probably Satapanna pahhata, adapted
from the name of the ancient cave in Pajagaba
at which the fi st Buddhist Council took
place. — J.
32. — The description of these stages seems to
correspond to the usual basement of a pasada
building, which is always elaborately moulded
( 52 )
2 cloth water strainers
1 >>etel ba;^'
GO wax candles
S Inindles inceL ^ sticks
1 log sandalwoc
9 alras-bowls
Cloves ( 9^iDj^ ),nntmejr,
cinnamon, camphor,
cardamoms
Needles
Kidis, thuttus and c«'»
Flowers
Lamps, v^c.
in ornamental lines in stages with figures sup-
porting them.: — J,
33. — The offerings made at this shrine were—
1 gold pagoda (varakan)
r»3 rupees
r)0 current rid is
1 tical ridi
2 coloured cloths worth
no ridis
11 rolls of fine cloth, 18 cub-
its long, 5? spans wide,
worth IT") ridis
'.^ cloths, named Kaveniya,
Samukkalama, and
Sarasaya
*2 lansolu cloths
1 silk tuppatiya
34. — This is literally true even to the present
days, for rivers and creeks are the highways of
Siam and no household is without at least one
boat. — J.
35." — LaJc is a common name for a village
temple, meaning pillar or post, probably referr-
ing to the mark set up when a site is selected for
a temple. Dhaiiy perhaps Siamese Ddn^ " the
pillar of charity."— J.
36, — Wilbagedara has left us the following
additional information. On Thuisday the eighth
day of the increasing moon of the month
Uduwak, in the Saka year 1674, about midnisrht,
Pattapola A/fapattuwe Moho/fala died at Bang-
kok while the ambassadors were on their way
home. The corpse was dressed in four cloths
with an inner and outer vest and a ** jaggalat
thoppiya :" a mattress was spread at the bottom
of the coffin with pillows at he^d and foot, and
the body laid on these, and the coffin closed.
Over all a violet ( ^Qds:8p\ ) thuppatiya was
cast as a pall and the coffin placed on the deck.
The priests then recited baua, and after offerings
had been made to them the coffin \ya8 lowered
into the ship's boat, which sailed away under £^.
( 53 )
salute of thirty-two gun?. After sailinpf eight
gawas the coffin was landed at night and remo*
ved inside a house, while the twenty oarsmen
were fed with rice bought at the spot. Oa
Saturday at ten p^i/as after dawn it was placed
within the preaching-hall of the Vat Pakanoth
Vihiire, when forty priests recited haua» Six
hundred lo?s of wood were purchased, and the
corpse cremated within apparently a cremator-
ium.
A disgrraceful incident followed ; Nattabura
Unciinse, who had accompanied the writer on
his first voyage to Slam and had then deserted,
now appeared on the scene in an attempt to obtain
for himself the property of the deceased Mohof^-
iila ; in fact, as the writer ruefully observes, he
was robbed of a whole night's sleep by the im-
portunities of this son of Belial, who was put
off by a reference to the decision of the Court
of Kandy. He then proceeded to the ship
where the priests werp. and demarided from them
the offerings tl»at had been made to them by
the ambassadors , their refusal so exasperated
him that he proceeded to strike the saintly Arya
Muai Tliero and a novice on their heads with a
club. The alarmed priests refused point blank
to proceed an^ further ; for, said they, if the
men sent from La?ika are such, what would
those who remain at home be like ? However.
J5?llepola Mohoffa^a had the miscreant arrested
and handed over to the authorities on land,
while the Siamese ambassadors succeeded in
pacifying the agritated priests, and they set sail.
A few days later the ship was discovered to
have sprung a leak, and she began to fill so
rapidly that they were obliged to cast their
cargo overboard to keep her afl )at ; t^ue priests
however recited baua day and night without in-
termission, and with such effect that they succee-
( £4 )
ded the next day in driFiug her agrround on a
mud bank near the harbour of Muwang Lakon,
a dependency of Siam, with all the crew and
Kings's presents safe. Here thej landed and
proceeded to the capitil, a fortified town named
Pataliputra ; in the middle of it was a dagaba
(as largre as the Ruanweli danraba at Polonnar-
iiwa ) which had been built bj Kino Daarmasoka
to contain some relics of the Buddha. It was
gilt from top to bottom, and the wilding was in
such exc<»llent preservation that the whole re-
sembled a newlj polishpd grold karamluwa.
Three hundred statues and two hundred silt
<?a2:abas, varying in height from 9 to 11 carpen-
ters' cubits, encircled the central structure.
Tbere was also in the c»ty a holy &o-tree which
Kin^ Dharniafo ca the Less hf»d within recent
times obtained from Anuiaihpura. Every
morning the pripsts of the various temples pro-
ceed to collect alms; three commissioners i«uper-
vise the affairs of the clerjjy over all the Siamese
dominions ; and by their orders all, whether
thereto induced by religious sentiment or not,
have to contribute to the support of the priest-
hood and the maintenance of the edifices. *
The country is rich in deposits of black and
white lend (tin?), ric^, betel, arecanut, &c.,
but robbers are numerous and bloodthirsty,
witchcraft abounds, and caucerous and leprous
diseases are frequent.
From here the Siamese ambassadors sent a
letter to their king to inform him of the mis-
fortune that had overtaken them ; this letter was
sent by land in charge of ten people, who deli-
vered it at the capital in a month and seven days
The king's order was that the ships should be
repaired and taken back to Siam, which they
accordingly proceeded to do, being hospitably
received by all the magnates of the coast. For
( 55 )
instance, two of them sent the followiDg
presents :-^
15 durians
300 mangosteens
100 mangoes
7 jak
45 pineapples
10 plantain bunches
9 bunches tender
cocoanuts
70 cocoanuts
60 bundles betel
16 bunches arecanuts
15 dried fish
100 do. (small)
60 duck eggs
1 package limes
5 boxes of rice
At 1.1 st, on Wednesday, the third day of the
increasing moon of the month ^sala, in the
<!l^aka ypar 1G74, they arrived at the c^iamese
Capital a seoond time, and were received in aud-
ience by the kingf. He addres^pd himself most
gra(^iou?ly to the writer, and bade him not to
be disheartened at his misfortune, as the king^
had given orders that everythin*^ should be
armnged for his return journ?y.
It is interestinof to note that the word put into
the king's mouth in addressing Wilbajedara
is «i©j.
Their return, however, was still to be delayed;
One of the king's great ships with a valuable car<»
sro, including elephants, was lost on a voyage to
Sinnapattanam, onl^ se^en or ei^ht of the crew
escaping in a boat ; moreover, four ships riding
at anchor in the harbour were destroyed by a
cyclone ; and to crown all, the sub-'^ing himself
died shortly after. The king accordingly hesita-
ted about sending the priests to L^nka in such
a year of disaster, and corsulted WilbA yedara,
who sent the following reply : — ** I, too, am in
great distress at the misfortunes that have
occurred ; but the uncertainty of the future,
grief, and death are no new thing in our world
of sorrow; herefore should you hasten to fructify
your desire to spread the knowledtje of the one
thing that is certain, the preaching of the Lord."
(56 )
Further, he went on to add how in the dajs of
old there were no Hollanders in the Island of
Lawka, but his majesty King Sri Kaja Sinha
had sent his rojal message and summoned them
from across the sea to guard his coasts, for
which purpose be had put them in charge of his
fortp, and thej had since served him with all
loyalty ; and every year embassies come from
diverse countries to the court of our king to
solicit his friendship with costly presents.
Apparently the king was greatly impressed ;
he sent two courtiers to make further inquiries
from WilbiiTfedara, who informed them that the
States of Sinnapattanam, Madura, Tanjore,
Trichincpoly, Kilakkari, and Mysore send yearly
tribute and obtain permission to participate in
the pearl fishery.
Shortly after Wilbngedara had a dream. He
dreamt thct he was leading a herd of elephants
one pure white in colour, and the rest speckled
to a frpshly reaped field, where the PacZikara
Woha//a'a and his own younger brother the
Muhandiram came to meet him, removing^ the
turbans tbey bad round their heads. As they
approached he noticed that leeches were climb-
ine: up his legs, and as he stooped to brush them
off he awoke.
This dream was the harbinger of happy news.
The following morning two ship captains named
Nicholas Bath and Martino appeared, and with
many declarations of their being the humble and
loyal servants of their majesties of Siam and
La?ika, placed their new ship the ^* Cecilia '* at
the service of the Sinhalese ambassador. This
cffer was joyfully accepted ; and on Sunday the
third day of the waning moon of the month
Duruta, the priests and the Siamese mission of
seventy-four ^ouls, including the five ambas* '
sadors, their interpreters, cleik ( Eitmiyen ),
( 57 )
Arachchies, (tnon), "appas" ( thinei ), soldiers,
two massa^cMrs (^-coescb tJifeoS) ®D<f^ ) EDUsiciane,
and attendent bojs proceeded on board. After
an uneventful vojage they reached Batavia,
where they were hospitably received by the
Dutch general, who presented thpoi with various
articles, including three guns. Here they tran-
shipped into a larger vessel, the " O^cabel," in
which they reached Trincomalee on Monday, Ihe
thirteenth day of the increasing moon of the
month Wesak, in the 5aka year 1675.
Addendum. — As some discussion has arisen on
the statement contained in paragraph 2, page
13, I add the literal translation of the passage
kindly supplied to me by Mr. W. H. Ranesinghe:
" A^lthough we wrote them, many things were
omitted from what was related ^to us and from
what we saw, which seemed to be incredible "
■Jimicocow
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