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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN
LI6I— O-1096
30.7
0.
Remodeling the
BUNGALOW FARMHOUSE
BEFORE
FE8 £ 6 1§§3
LIBRARY
AFTER
Remodeling
The Bungalow
Farmhouse
Prepared by K. H. Hinchcliff, E. L. Hansen, and D. G. Jedele
NORTH CENTRAL REGIONAL PUBLICATION 1 37; ILLINOIS AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT
STATION BULLETIN 690; Agricultural Experiment Stations of Alaska, Illinois, Indiana,
Iowa, Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Dakota, Ohio, South
Dakota, and Wisconsin, and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, cooperating.
AIASKA 1 February, 1963
© 1963 by the Beard of Trustees of the University of Illinois
I HE MOST COMMON TYPES OF FARMHOUSES IN THE MIDWEST
are the T-shaped, the square, and the bungalow. Many of these are in need of remodeling to
improve their function and appearance. This bulletin presents remodeling possibilities for the
bungalow. A similar publication featuring the
model-T is also available (North Central Regional
Publication 96; Illinois Bulletin 644).
The recommendations and suggestions in this
publication were developed through cooperative
work of the agricultural experiment stations of the
North Central states.
The preparation of this bulletin was a contribu-
tion from the Illinois Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tion to the cooperative regional project NC-9 of the
North Central region and was supported by funds
provided under the Research and Marketing Act.
The publication was prepared by K. H. Hinchcliff,
E. L. Hansen, and D. G. Jedele of the Illinois Station, working in cooperation with the re-
gional Farmhouse Technical Committee. The committee included the following persons:
MODEL T
SQUARE
Alaska: C. Ivan Branton
Illinois: K. H. Hinchcliff*
Helen E. McCullough
Indiana: Kathleen Johnston
Iowa: Margaret Listen
Kansas: Tessie Agan
Michigan: Merle L. Esmay
Minnesota: C. N. Christopherson
U. S. Department of Agriculture: Avis M. Woolrich, Lenore S. Thye, Clothing
and Housing Research Division, Agricultural Research Service; Georgian
Adams, Cooperative State Experiment Service
Missouri: Milton D. Shanklin
Nebraska: Florence McKinney
North Dakota: G. L. Pratt
Ohio: Elaine K. Weaver*
Doris Elliot
South Dakota: H. H. Delong
Administrative adviser: A. G. Hazen
* Deceased.
R
EMODELING PRESENTS BOTH OPPORTUNITIES AND PROBLEMS
Successful remodeling of a home often
calls for more ingenuity than building a new
house, since what you can do is always more
or less restricted by the existing structure.
Overcoming such difficulties offers some sat-
isfaction in itself, but the best reason for re-
modeling is to gain adequate housing for less
money than would be needed to build new.
The bungalow farmhouse has both defi-
ciencies and virtues. The deficiencies often
make remodeling desirable, and the virtues
offer ways to make it work.
Some typical deficiencies include: front
entrances that are rarely used, kitchen work
areas from which there is no view of the
driveway and service yard, almost no built-in
storage, no bathroom or wash-up facilities
for men coming in from work, usually no
farm-business area convenient for regular
use, no place for the family to relax in their
everyday clothes, and no car shelter.
Many of these houses, on the other hand,
have the virtues of simple architecture, sound
structure, and large rooms that respond well
to reshaping.
The first part of this publication describes
many of the considerations you need to look
into before you make your decision about
remodeling. In the last part a representative
farmhouse with two orientations is shown.
After you have decided which orientation
comes closer to your own situation, you can
study the accompanying transparent overlays,
which give suggestions as to how such a house
might be remodeled.
THIN
GS TO CONSIDER BEFORE MAKING YOUR DECISION
Many farm homes are definitely not worth
the cost of remodeling, others are borderline
cases, and some are in such good shape struc-
turally that to abandon them and build a new
house would mean a real economic loss. The
problem is to evaluate clearly the pros and
cons for a particular situation.
Location, structural condition, and size
and shape of the enclosed space are some
basic points to examine.
Location
If the farmhouse is located within 40 feet
of a public road, as many houses are, it is
usually a poor risk for remodeling — unless
it has several extra-good points that will offset
the cost and inconvenience of moving it
farther from the road. Similarly, if a house
is located where drainage is poor or where
prevailing winds bring livestock odors, it
should be moved to a better location before it
is remodeled. Here, again, the investment
usually is not justified.
Less serious objections to the location may
be cured without moving the house. For
example, if the driveway is on the wrong side
BARNYARD AREA ON
LEEWARD SIDE
LOCATION
WELL BACK FROM
PUBLIC ROAD
A house should have a good location to justify
remodeling.
Front and
usually nee
to be hand
way and a
as to the Hi
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rear entrance,
d to be relocatec
ier to the drive
ork area, as wel
'ing area.
of the house to be protected from winter
exposure, you can usually move it easier than
you can move the house.
Structure
The structural condition of your house is
often difficult to appraise, particularly if it
is borderline. One part of the house may be
in reasonably good condition while another
part has deteriorated.
In making an evaluation, it is important to
give most weight to the more serious consid-
erations. The most noticeable defects fre-
quently are not the most decisive. The condi-
tion of siding and roofing, for example, is not
as critical in the decision as the condition of
the foundation and framing. Your decision
may be influenced by the difficulty of getting
to the place where repairs need to be made.
Foundations. Remodeling is often a
poor risk if foundations have settled out of
alignment, open cracks have developed, ma-
sonry surfaces are chipped or broken, or
mortar is crumbly. Even sound foundations
may be troublesome if they project only a few
inches above grade; the situation encourages
problems of decay and termites that are not
easily corrected. Porous walls admit much
cold air, thus making the house uncomfortable
and difficult to heat.
If both the location and foundation are
poor, but the framework is unusually good,
you might consider moving the house to a
better location. The foundation can then be
built without the interference of the super-
structure. Otherwise, be sure to include any
needed foundation, pier, sill, and sash work
in your remodeling plans.
Framing. While some serious framing
defects are obvious, others can be determined
only after close inspection. Some defects are
less serious than others because they are easier
to correct.
A sagging roof or off-plumb or bulging
walls usually mean that remodeling is not
justified. A floor that shakes noticeably
when you walk across it, however, can often
be strengthened without too much difficulty.
The shaking indicates that the joists are too
small or too widely spaced or have deteri-
orated. Extra joists or an intermediate sup-
porting girder will correct the situation.
Poorly braced walls, which creak and strain
with gusts of wind, are more difficult to im-
prove, because wall surfaces have to be re-
moved before bracing can be added to the wall
or structurally strong wall sheathing can be
applied to studs.
If the framing is heavily infested with
termites, carpenter ants, or lyctus powder
post beetles, remodeling is seldom justified.
EXTRA JOI
-SUPPORTING BEAM
A beam or extra joists can
strengthen weak floors.
If the infestation is limited to a spot that you
can get to easily, such as a porch-stairs
stringer, replacing the infested parts with
termite-resistant material may control it.
Sometimes adding ventilation for crawl spaces
and putting metal termite shields between
masonry and wood parts will give enough pro-
tection. You may need the help of a compe-
tent inspector to determine how extensive an
infestation is. A good source of information
on this problem is the Forest Products Labo-
ratory, Madison, Wisconsin.
Stairways that are too steep, lack head-
room, or have irregularly shaped steps usu-
ally justify remodeling for improved safety
and convenience. If you decide to remodel a
stairway, consider whether you want to lo-
cate it in a different place to improve the
traffic through the house.
If at all practicable, you will want to
remove any unused chimneys, particularly
those that are supported by brackets on wall
frames. Such work, however, is not usually
a major problem and will probably not greatly
influence your decision as to whether to re-
model or not. Often a new, safe chimney
will be needed for a central heating plant.
You may want to replace your windows if
they are loose, poorly located, or disquietingly
out of style. Replacing windows is often
more expensive than installing them in a new
house because modern windows are usually
a different size than the old ones, and wall
framing has to be altered.
Kitchen windows are most likely to require
changing because the old-style ones usually
extend too low for base cabinets to be built
under them. This is one reason why, if you
are adding a room, it may be better to make
it a kitchen rather than a bedroom. Long
windows are not objectionable in bedrooms,
but high "strip" windows make it easier to
arrange the furniture. At the same time they
improve the outside appearance of the house
by emphasizing horizontal lines.
You may want to replace the windows in
your living room. Large glass areas for liv-
ing rooms have been growing in popularity.
Replacing old •windows with modern
ones can result in better light and ap-
pearance.
Consider the possibility of changing
the stairway location to improve traffic.
These are usually best when installed as a
bank of windows, preferably toward a pleasant
view, and located on the south or east side of
the house to admit light and heat from the
sun in the winter. Canopies or overhangs,
three to four feet wide, can shade these rooms
from too much summer sun. The long shades
also improve the appearance of the house by
emphasizing horizontal lines. Sometimes the
long shades should extend around corners to
break up dominating vertical lines that make
the house look higher than it is. In this pub-
lication, canopies and wide overhangs have
been used extensively for shading and for
appearance.
Space
Remodeling includes changing the shape of
the living space as well as the structural parts.
The space in many bungalow farmhouses is
not well organized. Many rooms, however,
remodel well because they are large enough to
give up some space for closets, halls, and even
bathrooms without reducing their area below
today's standards.
Two small rooms can often be combined
into one larger one. If the partition sepa-
rating the two rooms is not load-bearing, it
can usually be removed without difficulty.
But even a bearing wall should be removed
if the improvement in space will justify the
cost of installing a beam to replace it. Com-
bining two rooms in this way gives an "open"
effect suitable for living-dining areas, for
kitchen-work room areas, and sometimes for
family living and farm business centers. If
the enlarged areas need to be separated occa-
sionally, a modern folding partition can be
used to advantage.
Does the house justify remodeling?
Seeing a summary of the pros and cons of
remodeling your home can help you make a
clearer decision. It will also help to prevent
any one aspect from assuming more than its
share of influence. The checklist on page 7
will help you make an objective decision.
Circle the rating you think each of the
items should receive. The answers will make
a pattern suggesting whether remodeling is
justified.
You may want to add other considerations.
The more points you list and the more care-
fully you consider them, the more confidence
you can have in your decision. Be sure, how-
ever, that the points you list are reasonably
important. Evaluating trivial items will throw
your list out of balance.
Even though the checklist indicates that
conditions are favorable for remodeling, you
may want to talk with a contractor or similar
person to see whether you can do what you
want to do. Of course, you also need to de-
cide if the expense of remodeling is justified.
More storage space (dark areas), dis-
tributed throughout the house, is a
common need.
A Checklist for Your House
Distance from public road (rate poor if close enough for
annoyance from dust and noise; rate good if more than
85 feet away) poor fair good
Barnlot odors (of primary concern on livestock farms
where hogs are fed in the lot; house should be out of
the path of prevailing winds from such lots) poor fair good
Driveway (a location on the side of house which is pro-
tected from winter exposure would rate highest) poor fair good
Alignment (rate good if all foundations are straight and
true) poor fair good
Condition (masonry units should be sound and mortar
FOUNDATION firm; concrete not deteriorated) poor fair good
Height above grade (8 inches on the outside from soil to
wood framing and 18 inches inside are desirable to
avoid wood damage) poor fair good
Roof (rate poor if roof frame shows a sagging ridge or
bowed surfaces) poor fair good
Walls (good or even fair walls should appear straight and
true and should not be noticeably affected by light
winds) poor fair good
Floors (rate poor if shaky or uneven, since joists are likely
to be undersized and weakened by decay or termites) . . poor fair good
Windows and frames (loose sash and window sash joints
are seldom worth repairing, especially if there is exten-
sive decay) poor fair good
Stairways (rate poor if stairs are steep, have risers of ir-
regular size, or have pie-shaped treads) poor fair good
Room sizes (should be large enough to allow reduction for
SPACE desired halls and added storage) poor fair good
us_ Space location (rate unneeded space low, especially if it is
ccia mec remote, as on an upper floor; rate well space that can
be substantially improved by removing non-load bear-
ing partitions) poor fair good
Architectural lines (consider how attractiveness of house
APPEARANCE after remodeling would compare with that of a new
house) poor fair good
H
OW MUCH SHOULD YOU INVEST IN REMODELING?
No specific figure can be set as the upper
limit for remodeling costs. Some recom-
mend that remodeling investment should be
no more than half the cost of an equivalent
new home. However, it may sometimes be
desirable to go above this amount. There may
be a sentimental attachment to the family
home, for example. Or perhaps a new home
cannot be financed, and remodeling is the only
home-improvement course open.
An advantage favoring remodeling is that
you can often distribute the work and expense
over an extended period — you might im-
prove the kitchen this year, the bathroom
next, and the bedrooms or living area later.
Irregular farm income sometimes forces such
installment steps. But if you do the work
over an extended period, it is extremely im-
portant to have an over-all plan so that an
improvement made later will not conflict with
what you do now.
Exposed items such as new roofing or sid-
ing will not cost much more for remodeling
than for a new house. Adding central heat-
ing, rough-in plumbing, and vapor-protected
insulation, however, can be expected to cost
more because of obstructions imposed by the
house structure.
u
SING THE REMODELING SUGGESTIONS THAT FOLLOW
On the following pages, a typical bunga-
low arrangement is shown, along with several
suggestions for remodeling. These sugges-
tions are on transparent paper so that you
can compare the suggested changes with the
original arrangement.
Since driveways occur about as frequently
on one side of the house as on the other, a
reversed arrangement is shown.
Some bungalows have lower porch roofs
than the one for which these remodeling plans
are given. In such cases the porch roof should
be removed and the house roof extended.
The following common improvements are
featured throughout the remodeling arrange-
ments.
Front entrance is made more accessible
from the driveway and, where possible, is
located between the living and work areas of
the house.
Kitchen or work area is placed where it
permits a clear view of the driveway and the
farm service area.
Kitchen is arranged so that its work
space is not crossed by traffic.
Storage is added throughout the house,
including wraps closets near front and back
doors.
Farm business center, or at least desk
space, is located near the rear or "business"
entrance.
Access to bathrooms is possible without
going through bedrooms or living areas.
Bathroom windows are suggested where
the room is on an outside wall, unless they
would have to be over the bathtub. While
high fixed windows can be successfully used
in such a situation, using artificial light and
ventilation is a recommended alternative.
Modern ventilating and lighting equipment
has made bathrooms without windows in-
creasingly acceptable.
Family living areas are combined with yard from the kitchen. They face the drive-
work areas in most arrangements and are way rather than the road,
located so they are accessible to the back door. Roofs for additions are predominantly
Garages and carports are placed where low pitch or flat to avoid complicated inter-
they will not obstruct the view of the service sections with existing roofs and to make the
house appear less tall.
The primary aim of this guidebook is to help you visualize some of the
remodeling possibilities for your farm home. You may be able to proceed
directly from the plan layouts shown here, but it is likely that some adjust-
ments will be necessary to satisfy personal needs and desires. If extensive
adjustments are needed, special plans, details, and specifications are recom-
mended, particularly if the work is to be done by contract. For such modifi-
cations and details, it is advisable to get as competent professional help as you
can. Your county Extension agents may be able to direct you to professional
counsel experienced in farm home planning. A good source of details is
"Home Improvement Plans," available from your Extension Service or from
Midwest Plan Service, Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa.
METAL FRAMING ANCHORS
FRONT ENTRANCE CONSTRUCTION
CONCEALED BEAMS
JOISTS
OOD BEAM
WOOD BEAM
ATTACHED OVER WINDOW
PROJECTED ROOF CONST.
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR REMODELING
10
USE 5/8" EXTERIOR SHADE PLYWOOD GUSSET PLATES
ON EACH SDE OF THE BUTT JOINTS. SLUE WITH
CASEIN OR RESORCINOL RESIN SLUE. USE 7d NAILS
TO PROVIDE PRESSURE AS THE GLUE SETS.
EXTEND RAFTER ON
OVERHANG AS NEEDED;
B
4, B Jr
B ,
' S P 4 N T
GLUED AND NAILED TRUSS
DIMENSIONS FOR JIG LAYOUT, GLUED AND NAILED
TRUSS
LENGTH OF DIMENSION LINES HARKED:
SPAN ABC
(FEET) (FEET-INCHES) (FEET-INCHES) (FEET-INCHES)
30 2-7 6-8 6-4
24 3-0 8-0 7-4
28 3-6 9-4 8-8
•32 4-0 10-8 IO-4
LUMBER SIZE AND LENGTH FROM WHICH MEMBERS ARE
CUT FOR GLUED AND NAILED TRUSS
SIZE AND LENGTH OF PIECES NUMBERED:
SPAN 1234
(FEET) (INCHES-FEET) (INCHES- FEET) (INCHES-FEET) (INCHES-FEET)
20 2x4 12 2x4 10 2x4 8 2x4 14
24 2x4 12 2»4 12 2x4 8 2x4 16
28 2x4 14 2x4 14 2x4 10 2x4 IB
32 2x6 16 2x6 16 2x4 10 2>6 20
FELT
BH'MEN
GRAVEL OR SLAG
NSULATION
ROOF TRUSS
THE TRUSS IS A RELATIVELY NEW TREND IN HOUSE
ROOF FRAMING. IT SUPPORTS THE ROOF FROM
WALL TO WALL, PERMITTING MAXIMUM FLEXIBILITY
OF SPACE PLANNING SINCE INTERIOR POSTS Oft
BEARIN6 WALLS ARE NOT NEEDED; THE DESIGN
LENDS ITSELF TO STANDARDIZATION, MASS PRO-
DUCTION, OR PREASSEMBLY AT THE BUILDING SITE.
ROOF COVERING
MOST FREQUENT ROOFING FAILURES ARE DUE TO USE
OF COVERING THAT IS INTENDED FOR A STEEPER
PITCH. THE FOLLOWING IS RECOMMENDED MINIMUM
PITCHES FOR COVERING MATERIAL INDICATED.
MATERIAL
ADHESIVE TYPE SHINGLES
DOUBLE COVERAGE
ROLL ROOFING
BUILT-UP ROOF
MINIMUM PITCH
3" TO 12"
i° TO IE"
l/g" TO 12"
2* TONGUE 8 GROOVE PLANK
SHEET INSULATION
A SMPLE JIG, FORMED BY NAILING GUIDE
BLOCKS TO A LEVEL SURFACE, CAN OFFER
A FAST, UNIFORM METHOD OF TRUSS ASSEMBLY.
POST AND BEAM FRAMING
THIS METHOD IS MORE COMMONLY USED FOR
FLAT OR LOW-PITCHED ROOFS THAN FOR THE
STEEPER SLOPES. THE SYSTEM IS AN ADAPTA-
TION OF OLD-TIME TIMBER FRAMING, USED
INCREASINGLY IN MODERN DESIGN TO DO AWAY
WITH CONTINUOUS LOAD- BEARING WALLS AND
TO GAIN UMQUE EFFECTS.
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR REMODELING
11
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