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LIBRARY
OF THE
MASSACHUSETTS
AGRICULTURAL
COLLEGE
souRf yi^£
390
— C22 '
V. 1
1883-85
This book may be kept out
TWO WEEKS
only, and is subject to a fine of TWO
CENTS a day thereafter. It will be due
on the day indicated below.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTUR:
7 '^%\
REPORT
YITICULTUEAL WORK
During the Seasons 1883-4 and 1884-5,
APPENDIX NO. IV TO THE REPORT FOR THE lEAR 1884.
WITH NOTES REGARDING THE VINTAGE OF 1885-6.
By EUGKNE; W. HiLGARD,
Professor of Agriculture.
SACRAMENTO
STATE OFFICE,
JAMES J. AYERS, SUPT. STATE PRINTING.
]886.
M 5 - 8 r
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Note. — Names of grapes starred (*) indicate that general remarks on the variety are given at tlie place
referred to.
Legisl.^tion Concerning Viticultural Work 11
Letter of Transmi'^tal 13
I. — General Part.
Statement of general objects and plan of wov-k 15
Modifications of .same; difficulties 16
Lack of space and conveniences - 17
Inquiry and action of Viticultural Convention on same - - 17
Appropriation recommended and made 17
Volume and pressure of vs^ork in 1884. _ .-- 18
Volunteer assistance obtained - 18
Work of 1885; increased facilities .- -.- 18
Need of increasing scale of operations 18
Difficulty of reliable experiments in wineries ..L 19
Obligation of the College of Agriculture to perform viticultural work 19
Students and visitors 19
Report of the Committee of the State Viticultural Convention of ISS4 20
Clause of general appropriation bill 21
Action of the Viticultural Conference Committees 21
Report of the Regents' Committee 21
Communication from C. A. Wetmore 21
Communication from Prof. E. W. Hilgard 21
Action of the Regents.. 24
Wine Fermentation .. 24
The several fermentations ; ferments 24
General action of antiseptics thereon; maximum of alcohol 25
Ingredients of must; effects of aeration 25
Constituents of wine 26
Alcohol, acid, body, odorous substances 26
Circumstances that determine the several fermentations 27
Temperature controls intensity of each 27
Beer fermentation better controlled than wine fermentation 27
Ferment germs all but universally present . 27
Importance of prompt starting of the fermentation desired 27
Use of flour yeast dangerous to taste and keeping qualities 28
Influence of temjwraiure 28
High and low (or bottom and top) vinous fermentation .- 28
Diversity of products ; characteristics of same 28
Exclusive high fermentation of California wines 29
Temperature of most active high fermentation 29
The lacto-butyric, mucous, and mannite fermentations 29
Favored by high temperatures 29
PAGE.
Importance of the initial temperature of must 30
Arrest of fermentation from crushing grapes while hot 80
The acetic fernientation 80
Favored by high temperature and access of air 30
Hence by "cap" of red wines 31
Impeded by high alcoholic strength ; fortification 31
Wines naturally resisting acetification 31
Importance of cleanliness and sulphuring 31
" Pricked " wines the bane of California vintages 31
Conservation of ivines 32
Well-made wines preserve themselves 32
Abundance of badly-made wines in Europe 32
Large vs. small wineries 32
Summary statement of causes of unsoundness in California wines 32
Use of antiseptics for preservation 32
Danger to health 33
" Unf ermented wine " 33
Sulphuring . 33
Pasteurizing should supersede all antiseptics - 34
Apparatus for pasteurizing 34
Points in the fermentation of red wines 35
Comparative difficultj^ of red-wine making 35
Effects of unsound grapes 35
Rapidity of red-wine fermentation ; rise of temperature .-- 35
Exposure to air in open tanks 35
The "cap" the greatest source of trouble.- 35
Prevention of the "cap". 36
A. By"foulage" --. 36
B. By Perret's frames 36
Insufficiency and bad effects of using a single frame only 37
C. Use of floating cover, alone or with " foulage " 37
The protecting cover of carbonic gas .- 38
Its unreliability -. 38
Habitual neglect of precautions against "pricking" 38
Extract from a report on "Studies on Wine Fermentation" made to Viticultural Com-
mission 39-4 1
Part II. — Record of Work In the Viticultural Laboratory for the Season 1883-4.
General remarks 42
Publication of bulletins 42
Li-st of grapes received at the Viticultural Laboratory in 1883 43
Descriptive list of wines made at the Viticultural Laboratory in 1883 43
Matarb* 43
From Denicke, Fresno 43
Carignane, from same - - 44
Grenache, from same 44
Carignane, from J. P. Smith, Livermore - 45
Grenache, from same - 45
Mataro, from same _ 45
Discussion of the Six Preceding Wines ( Bulletin No. 6) -.. 46
Zinfandel, second crop, Natoma W. and M. Co., white and red wines 47
Zinfandel, from F. T. Eisen, Fresno -.. - --- 48
PAGE.
Chauche Gris, fermented with skins, from Chas. Krug, St. Helena - 48
Same, from W. G. Klee, Happy Valley, Santa Cruz County 48
Chauch6 Gris, white wine, from Chas. Krug _ 49
Same, white wine, from W. G. Klee 49
Franken Riesling, from Chas. Krug 50
Same, fermented with skins, Chas. Krug : 50
Chauche Noir, from W. G. Klee 50
Seedless Sultana, from R. B. Blowers 50
Same, fermented with skins 50
Table of Grapes Worked in 1883, Showing Proportions of Pomace, Must, etc . 52
Taple Showing Composition of Wines from the above Grapes 52
List of Wine Samples Received, 1883-4 54-55
Descriptive List OF Wine Samples Received, 1883-4 56
Matarb, 1882, from H. W. Crabb, Oakville 56
Matarb, 1883, from same 56
Matarb, 1883, from J. B. J. Portal, San Jose 56
Matarb, 1883, Capt. Merither, Cupertino 56
Matarb, 1883, from Jesuit Fathers' Vineyard, Cupertino 56
Malbeck, 1882, from Crabb, Oakville 56
Malbeck, 1883, from John T. Doyle, Cupertino 56
Tannat, 1883, from H. W. Crabb, Oakville 56
Tannat, 1883, from J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen 56
Grossblaue, 1883, from H. W. Crabb 56
Grossblaue, 1883, from H. A. Pellet, St. Helena 56
Black Burgundy, 1882, from H. W. Crabb 57
Black Burgundy, 1883, from H. W. Crabb 57
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1883, from H. W. Crabb 57
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1883, from J. H. Drummond 57
Camay Teinturier, 1883, from H. W. Crabb 57
Gamay Teinturier, 1883, from J. H. Drummond 57
Piedde Perdrix, 1882, from H. W. Crabb.. 57
Petite Sirah, 1883, from J. H. Drummond 57
Charbono, 1882, from H. W. Crabb 57
Charbono, 1882, from H. W. Crabb 57
Charbono Blend, 1883, from C. O. Butler, Hanf ord 57
Carignane, 188.3, from H. A. Pellet, St. Helena 57
Carignane, 1883, from M. Denicke, Fresno 58
Malvoisie, 1883, from Juan Gallegos, Mission San Jose 58
Black Hamburg, 1883, from Ch. Cnopius, Santa Rosa 58
Feher Szagos, 1883, from Ch. Cnopius 58
Feher Szagos, 1883, from R. Barton, Fresno 58
Muscat of Alexandria, from C. Cnopius 58
Mission, white, from same 58
Victoria Chasselas, 1882, from George Husmann, Napa 58
German Muskateller, 1881, from same 58
German Muskateller, 1882, from same 58
Semillon, 1883, from J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen.. 58
Chasselas Rose, 1881, from George Husmann 58
Chasselas Rose, 1882, from same 58
Herbemont, white, 1883, from same. 58
Victoria Chasselas, 1882, from same 58
PAGE.
Sherry, Spanish, from Charles Meinecke, San Francisco - -- 58
Table of Analyses of Wines Received, 1883-4 59-60
Composition of Zinfandel Wines fil
Importance of the Zinfandel grape in California . - 01
Adaptation to the world's market ()1
Importance of proper blending 01
"Examination of Zinfandel TFmcs" (Bulletin No. 12) 02
Coticlusions Corroborated by Additional Analyses --- 63
Second crop and white Zinfandel wines (Bulletin No. 9) 64
Desceiptive List of Zinfandel Wines, 1880 to 1884 (inclusive) --- 05
Vintage 1880. J. H. Drummond - 65
Vintage 1881. J. GaUegos, Mission San Jose 65
Vintage 1882. J. Gallegos 65
Vintage 1882. J. H. Drummond 65
Vintage 1882. H. W. Crabb.- 05
Vintage 1882. Charles Krug 06
Vintage 1882. M. Denicke, Fresno 66
Vintage 1883. J. H. Drummond 66
Vintage 1883. H.W. Crabb... 66
Vintage 1883. W. Scheffler, St. Helena 6()
Vintage 1883. J. Gallegos 60
Vintage 1883. John T. Doyle, Cupertino 66
Vintage 1883. J. B. J." Portal 60
Vintage 1883. Charles Knust, Cloverdale 60
Vintage 1883. Natoma W. & M. Co 60
Vintage 1883. R. Barton, Fresno 00
Vintage 1883. C. Richber, Fresno 60
Vintage 1883. Duquesne, Fresno 60
Vintage 1883. Sherman, El Cajon, San Diego County 67
Vintage 1884. J.B.J. Portal 67
Vintage 1884. John T.Doyle 67
Vintage 1884. Stern & Rose, San Gabriel 67
Vintage 1884. Bggers' Vineyard, Fresno 67
Vintage 1884. R. Barton, Fresno 67
Table of Zinfandel Wine Analyses, 1879 to 1885 68-69
Comparison of Different Wines from the Same Locality 70
Examinations of Claret Wines from H. W. Crabb (Bulletin No. 13) 71
Examinations of Red Wines from Sonoma and Napa Counties (Bulletin No. 21) 72
Analyses of Santa Clara Valley Red Wines ( Bulletin No. 43) 74-77
Part III.— Record of Work in tlie Viticultural Laboratory for the Season 1884-5_-- 78
General remarks on the vintage work of 1884 78
Grapes received from the Natoma W. & M. Co 78
Mode of working -. .-- 78
Pressure of work; volunteer assistance 78
Summary of wines made 79
Thinness of kegs 80
Mode of filling up --- 80
Discussions of grape varieties -, 81
rA(;E.
List of Gkapes Received at the Viticultural Laboratory, 1884 81-82
Descriptive List of Grapes Received and Wines Made, with Analyses of Musts
AND Wines 83
A. Red Wines 83
1. Bordeaux or Claret type J 83
Malbeck* 83
Cabernet Franc* 84
Same, from W. Pfeffer, Gubserville 85
Cabernet Saiivignon * 86
Merlot* 88
Verdot* 88
Tannat,* H. W. Crabb-. 89
Beclan* 91
Carignane* 92
Grossblaue,* H. A. Pellet... 92
2. Burgundy type _ 93
Black Burgundy* H. W. Crabb 93
Black Pinot, L. P. Berger, Lakeport 94
Meunier,* William SchefHer, St. Helena 95
Same, H. Mel, Glenwood, Santa Cruz County 95
Zinfandel, Charles W. Howard, Lower Lake 96
Same, P. W. Butler, Penryn, Placer County 97
5. Southern French and Italian type 98
Trousseau,* George West, Stockton 100
Sirah* 101
Serine* ■. 102
Mondeuse* 102
Cinsaut* 104
Aramon * 105
Mourastel * 106
Grenache * _. 107
Same, from William Pfeffer 108
Petit Bouschet* 109
Clairette Rouge *_ 110
Barbera,* from John T. Doyle 111
4- American type 111
Lenoir,* from H. Hagen, St. Helena Ill
Same, from L. Langenberger, Anaheim 112
Herbemont, from George Husmann, Napa 113
6. Rhenish type. 113
Biau-Elbling,* Stern & Rose, San Gabriel. 113
Red Qrape-Blends 114
Cab. Sauvignon and Grossblaue 114
Cab. Franc and Grossblaue 114
Same, with Gros.sblaue, Folic Blanche, and Black Prince 114
Mis.sion, Carignane, and Folic Blanche 115
Zinfandel, Grossblaue, and Folle Blanche 115
Cab. Franc and Carignane.. 116
Same, and Petite Sirah 116
Malbeck and Sirah 110
Cab. Franc and Mourastel 117
PAGE.
Cab. Franc, Carignane, Grossblaue, and Folle Blanche 117
Cab. Sauvignon, Mourastel, and Carignane - 118
Zinfandel and Mondeu.se -- 118
Red Wine-Blends 119
Zinfandel, Grenache, Bastardo, and Petit Bouschet... - 119
Zinfandel and Aramon 119
B. Dry White Wine.s 119
Semillon* - , - 119
Sauvignon Blanc * - -' - 120
Muscadelle du Bordelais* 121
Semillon and Sauvignon Blend --- 122
Semillon, Sauvignon, and Mu.scadelle Blend - 122
Folle Blanche ---- 124
Burger* and Blue Elbling , 124
Same, from Barton, Fre.sno .-. - 126
Roussanne * 126
Marsanne* 127
Clairette Blanche* 128
"Pecoui Touar," white grape* - --- 130
C. Sherry AND Madeira Varieties .-- 130
Pedro Jimenes *..- -- 130
Palomino or LLstan* -.- -- - 131
Peruno- " 133
Mantuo de Pilas - 133
Mouri.sco Branco -- 134
Beba - --- 135
Verdelha*.- - -. - 135
Boal Madeira 136
Ugni Blanc* 137
Malmsey 138
Malaga ---- - 139
D. Port Wine Varieties 139
TintaCao 139
Tinta Madeira 140
Mourisco Preto 140
Tinta Amarella 140
Moretto* - 142
Bastardo - 142
Tinta Cao and Mourisco Preto blend 143
Moretto, Mouri.sco Preto, Tinta Cao, and Petit Bouschet - 143.
Table of Grapes worked in the Viticultural Laboratory, 1884 145-147
Table Showing Composition ok Musts and Wines made in Viticultural Labo-
ratory, 1884 148-149
Table of wines exhibited at Viticultural Convention, 1884 150-152
Descriptive List of Wines Sent for Examination During Season 1884-5 152
Trousseau, 1883, from M, Denicke 152
Same, 1883, from John T. Doyle, Cupertino --- 152
Same, 1883, from C. A. Wetmore, Livermore Valley 152
Charbono, 1883, from John T. Doyle. 153
Claret, 1883, from R. Barton - --■ 153
Malvoisie, 1884, from J. T. Doyle - 15S
9
PAGE.
Malbeck, 1884, from Charles Le Franc 153
Grenache, 1883, from J. B. J. Portal. 153
Carigiiane, 1883, from J. B. J. Portal 153
Ploussard, 1884, from same .- 153
Matarb, 1884, from same 153
Cabernet Franc, 1884, from same 154
Blau-Elbling, 1884, from Stern & Rose, San Gabriel 154
Sultana, 1884, from Stern & Rose 154
Burger, 1884, from same ._ 154
Burger, 1883, from R. Barton 154
Burger, 1884, from same 154
Chauche Gris ("Gray Riesling"), from same 154
Table of Analyses of Wines Sent for Examination 155-156
The Vintage of 1885 157
Contrast with that of 1884 157
"Difficult fermentations" 157
Effects of high temperature; sweet wines 157
The wines of 1885 (Bulletin Ts'o. 51) i 158
The University Experimental Vineyard at Cupertino, Santa Clara County 160
Liberality of Mr. John T. Doyle 160
Description of soil and location 160
List of grape varieties represented 160
Expected increase of same in 1886 160
Part IV. — Record of Work relating to tlie Phylloxera and its Repression 162
Bulletin No. 19. — Observations on the Phylloxera during 1884 162
Introductory statement 162
1. Observations on the Life-History and Habits of the Phylloxera in Cali-
fornia, BY F. W. Morse 164
The University vineyard plot 164
The Winter state of the insect .. 165
Field Observations during the Season 1881-1882 165
First appearance of the winged form 166
Roots producing the winged form 166
Conditions of their development ; invasion of 1884 167
Summary of observations 167
Observations in the Laboratory 1881-1885 167
Conservation of root specimens -. 168
Number of eggs laid 168
Rate of laying and time of hatching 168
Duration of larval condition 168
Pupq Form 169
Conditions governing the production of pupse. - - 169
Movements and transformations 169
Winged Form 169
Abundant production in 1884 169
Migration of winged insects - 170
Movement of young larvte through the soil 170
The Gall Louse 170
Appearance in 1884 170
10
PAGE.
Influence of root conditions 171
Identity of the root and leaf louse - - - - 1"1
Enemies to the Phylloxera 1"2
Varieties of Vines bearing the Several Forms 172
Danger of Spreading by the Winged Form -- 172
Comparison of Eastern and California types 173
Table of forms 173
Forms observed in California 173
Winter egg 171
Probable underground development in place of the winged form 174
Hibernating forms 175
Moulting of hibernants 175
Sterile winged form 175
Mode of attack on different vines 176
2. Repression of the Phylloxera 176
Bulletin No. 3. Remedies for the phylloxera --- 177
Bulletin No. 18. Mr. J. A. Bauer's phylloxera remedy _ 178
Bulletin No. 48. Investigations upon the mercurial phylloxera remedy 179
Mercury Vapor as a Remedy against the Phylloxera 179
Mr. Bauer's mercurial mixture and its application 182
Mr. Bauer's experiments 182
Other experiments - 182
University field experiments - 183
Experiments in the University Laboratory 184
Methods and reagents used 184
" Standard mixture " 185
Mr. Bauer's mercurial mixtures 185
Soils used in the experiments 186
Experiments regarding the continued life of the phylloxera on detached root
fragments 188
Action of mercury vapor upon the phylloxera 188
Experiments showing the formation of vapor with different mixtures 188
Experiments on the effects of immersion of infested roots in mercurial mix- 190
tures, alone or with sand or soil, at ordinary temperatures
Absorption of Mercurial Vapor by the Soil 193
Comparative saturations of soil and sand 193
Effects of saturated soils upon the phylloxera -- 194
Experiments on the lea.st time required for saturation at 110 degrees 195
Vapor-saturation of soils • 197
Effects of vapor-saturated soils on the phylloxera 198
Effect of the degree of fineness of the soil upon the absorption of mercurial
vapor 200
Detection of free vapor in mercurial mixtures and mercurialized soils. - 201
Lateral diffusion of mercurial vapor in soils -, 203
Vineyard Experiments with Mercurialized Soil 203
General conclusions .-- - 204
The Phylloxera at Berkeley 205
Resolution of the State Viticultural Commission regarding the same 205
Resolution adopted by the Regents of the University 205
Communication of Professor Hilgard concerning the alleged danger of infec-
tion from the University vineyard plot.- .205-209
LEGISLATION CONCERNING VITICULTURAL WORK.
THE PROVISIONS OF THE ACT OF 1880.
For the information of persons interested, the portion of the Act of 1880
relating to this work, is here inserted:
An Act for the Promotion of the Viticultural Interests of the State.
(Approved April 15, 1880. Stats, of Cal., 1880, p. 53.)
Section 8. And for the further promotion of viticultural interests, it shall be the duty
of the Board of Regents of the University of California to i^rovide for special instruction
to be given by the Agricultural Department of the University, in the arts and sciences
pertaining to viticulture, the theory and practice of fermentation, distillation, and rectifica-
tion, and the management of cellars, to be illustrated by practical experiments with
appropriate apparatus; also, to direct the Professor of Agriculture, or his assistant, to
make personal examinations and reports upon the different sections of the State adapted
to viticulture; to examine and report iipon the woods of the State procurable for cooper-
age, and the best methods of treating the same; and to make analysis of soils, wines,
brandies, and grapes, at the proper request of citizens of the State; also, to prepare com-
prehensive analyses of the various wines and spirits produced from grapes, showing their
alcoholic strength and other properties, and especially any deleterious adulterations that
mav be discovered. The Regents shall also cause to be prepared, printed, and distributed
to the public, quarterly reports of the professor in charge of this work, relating to exper-
iments undertaken, scientific discoveries, the progress and treatment of the phylloxera,
and other diseases of the vine, and such other useful information as may be given for
the better instruction of viticulturists.
Sec. 9. The Board of Regents of the University shall be authorized to receive and
accept donations of lands suitable for experimental vineyards and stations, and shall sub-
mit in their next report an economical plan for conducting such vineyard, and for the
propagation and distribution of specimens of all known and valuable varieties of grape-
vines.
In accordance with the provisions of the above Act, growers and wine-
makers are invited to send sample lots of grapes for analysis and exper-
imental wine-making. As a rule each grape variety will be made into
wine separately; the analj^sis of the must is made on the day of crushing,
and will, if so desired, be at once communicated to the sender. That of
the wine must, of course, be delayed until the latter has acquired a reason-
able degree of maturity, after several rackings. But reports on special
points that may be ascertained sooner, will be sent if desired.
Experimental blends will also be made, either in accordance with the
request of growers, or such as examination or previous experience may
seem to render desirable.
Ready-made wines or brandies of which the analysis or other examina-
tion is desired, will receive attention in the order of their receipt at Berke-
ley.
All work is, of course, done gratuitously, transportation charges being
paid by the sender.
12
SUGGESTIONS TO SENDERS.
It is hardly necessary to say that, other things being equal, the larger
the quantity of grapes worked, the more certainly and nearly will the
result correspond to that which may be expected on the large scale. In
the case of rare grapes, a few pounds, carefully treated, may be made to
give fair results; but it is very desirable that the amount sent for exper-
imental working should in no case be less than that which will yield five
gallons of finished wine; say (considering the losses consequent from trans-
portation, amounts required for analysis, frequent racking, etc.) 100
pounds; but twice that amount is preferable. Wine grapes, being usually
very delicate, should be packed in small boxes of 20 to 25 pounds each,
preferably with layers of grape leaves between; not packing paper, which
causes them to mould. Owing to a neglect of this precaution, several of
the wines made last season acquired a mouldy flavor. Be sure, also, to
allow the grapes to cool before packing. Also, send promptly advice of
shipment, whether by express or freight. Address, University of Califor-
nia, care of Professor Hilgard; if by express, to Berkeley; if by freight, to
West Berkeley depot.
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL.
President E. S. Holden:
Dear Sir: I transmit herewith a report on the work done in the Viticul-
tural Laboratory of the University since the publication of the last report,
in 1882; together with such other matter as, from its direct bearing upon
viticulture, should be placed before those interested in this connection.
This report embraces, therefore, the viticultural work done for the sea-
sons 1883-84 and 1884-85, together Avith such data and notes from that of
the season of 1885-86 as can at this time be profitably given. It is well
understood that judgment in regard to the character of wines cannot be
advisedly passed until at least six months after the vintage, and in many
cases even that may be reversed by later developments. It is not, then,
desirable that reports should follow the vintage too closely.
In the present case, however, the delay in the publication of the two sea-
sons' results is substantially due to the pressure of actual work, which ren-
dered an earlier elaboration of the results impossible. Even at this time,
much that should have been done in the way of comparisons and discus-
sion must be laid over to a future report, from lack of the needful leisure.
This results from the many and varied calls constantly made upon me,
especially at this season. For many reasons, however, it seems important
that the publication should not be longer delayed.
The nature of the case requires that in the presentation of the subjects
discussed, not only must the data of the previous work be re-introduced to a
considerable extent, but in order to facilitate comparison and understand-
ing of the discussions, a not inconsiderable amount of repetition is required
within the text itself, to avoid the need of continual cross-references, which
few readers of the class most interested in this subject would be likely to
follow.
Another feature of the report that may need some notice is the introduc-
tion of the documents relating to the unfortunate controversy which has
arisen between my department and the State Viticultural Commission, in
regard to the scope of the work to be pursued by each, and the use of the
appropriation of $10,000 made, at the instance of the State Viticultural
Convention of 1884, by the last Legislature. I think that justice to myself
and the department under my charge, requires that this presentation of the
case at least should be permanently on record, and that the issue should
be fully understood by those interested in the viticultural industries of the
State. Plainly stated, it involves the question whether the Agricultural
Department of the University is to abdicate its practical work and useful-
ness in this branch of agriculture, into the hands of the Viticultural Com-
mission, and to act simply as a subordinate to that body, in the way of
making the analyses desired by it. This was the pro^josition made to the
legislative committee by the executive officer of the Commission, as stated
by himself; and it is the position into which it has since been attempted to
14
force me, in the various suggestions made by the Commission for the expend-
iture of the appropriation in question. It is hardly necessary to say that
it is one which, personally, I cannot accept, nor do I believe that it would
be consonant with either the functions or the dignity of the University.
Very respectfully,
E. W. HILGARD,
Professor of Agriculture.
Berkeley, February 4, 1886.
I. GENERAL PART.
STATEMENT OF GENERAL OBJECTS AND PLAN OF WORK.
The general objects and plan of the laboratory work, hereinafter recorded,
has been defined in previous reports, and prolonged experience has shown
no reason for departing, in any material degree, from the views in accord-
ance with which the work in the viticultural laboratory was begun in 1881;
although additional matter has, as might be expected, come up for consid-
eration as the work progressed. As the former reports, however, are likely
not to be found in the hands of many who may see the present one, the
essential portions of the definition of the scope and intent, previously given,
are here reinserted by way of introduction:
The plan adopted in this matter is in conformity with my view, shared by the best vint-
ners in the State: that among the first necessities of the present situation of Cahfornia
wines in the world's market, li^ the establishment of more definite qualities and brands,
resulting from a definite knowledge of the qualities of each of the prominent grape vari-
eties, and of their influence upon the kind and quality of the wine, in blending before, or
as the case may be, after fermentation ; of the treatment required by each in the cellar,
during the time of ripening ; and finally, of the differences caused by difference of loca-
tion, climate, etc., as well as by different treatment of the wines themselves.
Heretofore, in the great majority of cases, the whole subject of qualities and brands has
been in the hands of the wine dealers, who received from the producer indefinite qualities
and quantities of wines made from unknown mixtures of grapes, and had to be governed
almost alone by their taste in the important matter of making blends adapted to the taste
of wine consumers. That under these circumstances the result should not have been
altogether a happy one, or most favorable to the market value of California wines, is not
surprising. Wheii the fermentation is once over, the most important period in the life of
wines is past; and the corrections that can be made afterwards, by the mere blending of
ready-made wines, is like the education of a human being after the golden time of youth
has passed unimproved. Something can be accomplished even then, but the best possible
results are rarely attained; and in order to cover the defects as much as possible, artificial
aids and high-pressure methods are employed. Thus far the reputation of purity— of
containing nothing that is not of the grape— has been the preeminent virtue of California
wines, which has covered a multitude of sins committed in their preparation. It is to be
hoped that wine-makers will see to it that this reputation shall continue to be deserved,
and that hereafter, their product shall be of such qiiahty as not to be ashamed of its birth-
place, or to stand in need of borrowing either foreign labels, names, or flavors.
To this end, a definite knowledge of the character and special wine-making qualities of
each kind of grape serving in the preparation of wine, is indispensable. In the wine-pro-
ducing countries of Europe this knowledge has been acquired by long experience; and
chemical investigation has subsequently in a great measure ascertained the natural con-
ditions upon which the attainment of certain results in wine-making depends. The
principles thus evolved can be applied to new conditions, such as those existing in Cali-
fornia, and thus save to a great extent the laborious and costly exi)erimenting which has
been gone tlirough heretofore, by formulating into generally intclliLnhle rules the knowl-
edge which otherwise usually remains the trade secret of a few experts.
The first step to such knowledge is to obtain a definite idea of the material to be treated ;
and curiously enough, however numerous are the analysis of ready-made European wines
already on record, there are comparatively few cases in which the must from which they
were produced was also investigated in so definite a manner as to lead to broad generali-
zations. Clearly, what is needed is that first the must, and then the corresponding wine
of the more important grape varieties, shoidd be made the subject of detailed investiga-
tion, and that tne wine should have been produced from the must under definite, or defi-
nitely varied conditions, with absolute certainty of the purity of materials, as well as of
the precise manner of operating in each case. 'This cannot, as a rule, be depended upon
16
in large wineries, where the exigencies of the supply, pressure of work and weather, the
necessary employment of raw hands, and above all, the necessity of yielding to financial
considerations, imposes limitations and uncertainties that can but rarely be controlled at
will. When this can be done, the large scale experiments are of course by far the more
decisive and cogent, and of the greatest practical value.
In an experimental laboratory, the quantities operated upon are of necessity relatively
•small; and it is highly important that allowance be made for this circumstance, as well as
for other points in which the "wholesale" practice must always differ from the small-scale
one. For instance: tlie management of the temperature of the fermenting room is easier
in a large winery properly constructed, than in a small experimental room and with stnall
quantities of must, which are very quickly affected l)y changes of temperature such as
would have remained unnoticed and without influence upon the great masses in the
winery. This difficulty is very apparent in the record of the course of temperatures in
fermentation.
Nevertheless, we are thu.s enabled to obtain a very close estimate of the results obtaina-
ble from a given grape-variety on the large scale, and of the part that each will play when
blended either before or after fermentation. Few grape-varieties will, like the peerless
Riesling, by themselves produce the best possible product. The art and science of blend-
ing is scarcely second in importance to the possession of good raw materials, soils, and
climates ; and while its last refinements depend upon a corresponding refinement of indi-
vidual taste and judgment, there is a large part of it that can be intelligibly codified, thus
preventing a waste of good materials upon unmerchantable wines.
Even the most cursory consideration, however, shows that this cannot be the work of
one or of even a few years ; but, like all other agricultural experiences and experiments,
must be extensively repeated in order to become the basis of general practice. The same
grape-varieties grown in different localities and in different years will differ materially in
their composition ; and it is only by extended comparisons of these through a number of
years that the accidentals can be definitely segregated from the essentials. Hasty gener-
idizations, based upon limited exi^erience, are the bane of all experimental work, especially
in agriculture.
While then the following record and discussion furnishes a basis of definitely ascer-
tained facts regarding some of the more prominent varieties of wine grapes now produced
in California, it cannot pretend to do more than furnish useful suggestions, to be tested
by practice, and if the means for the continuation of the work be furnished, to be farther
pursued and enlarged in our laboratory.
It should be fully understood and 'remembered that while peculiarities and defects
shown by analysis are perfectly definite indications as to the conditions that viust be ful-
filled in a successful l)lend, yet analysis cannot as yet take cognizance of the delicate and
almost intangible flavors or "bouquets," which must likewise be made to harmonize, in
order to satisfy a cultivated palate. To that extent the determination of the proper lilends
must always remain with the expert wine-taster, but the work of the latter is immensely
facilitated by being informed, through the analysis, of the prominent chemical peculiari-
ties, which in any case must be taken into consideration, and which ordinarily are left to
laborious and more or less blind guessing or experimenting.
Practically, the plan of work adopted is as follows: To make of each kind of grape, not
less than seven gallons each of white, and of red wine; that is, of wine fermented on the
skins for a suitable length of time, as well as such resulting from must freshly pressed. In
the case of white grapes, this, of course, alters but little the ultimate tint of the wine, but
imparts to it a larger amount of acid, of tannin, and of " body," or extractive matters ; while
in that of black, or colored grapes generally, the color extracted from the skins is added to
the above ingredients, forming properly " red" wines. The difference, however, extends far
beyond the mere extraction of the substances preexisting in the grape; since especially
the presence of the acids of the skins influences very powerfully the formation of the spe-
cific aromas, or "bouquet" of high flavored wines.
The above mentioned seven gallons of each kind of must, or wine, are divided between
a five and a two-gallon demijohn, for the first or violent fermentation ; while for the second
or after-fermentation, after racking off from the lees, the five-gallon vessel, filled full, serves
as the permanent receptacle. A constant daily record is kept of the temperature, condi-
tion, etc., of the wine as its fermentation progresses; the temperature of the cellar being
kept, as steadily as possible, between 60° and 65° Fahr., up to the time of the first rack-
ing off.
The fresh or white wine must, the murk or red wine must pressed after the first fermen-
tation, and finally the finished wine,. are each .«iubjected to analysis; the several wines
being also ultimately tasted and their qualities recorded.
The plan outlined above has been pursued up to the present time, with
some modifications suggested by experience, or rendered necessary by the
pressure of work. As grapes of well known special adaptation to red or
white wines came under treatment, the making of both kinds from each
variety was omitted, so as to give more time and space to other work.
Moreover, as time progressed, it became evident that the use of demijohns is
undesirable whenever it is desired to observe the development of tlie wines
17
with age; not only because this development is very slow, but also because,
despite all watchfulness, bursting by gas pressure from the inside would
frequently occur, causing unfortunate losses.
In pursuance of these views the vintage work of 1884 was conducted
altogether in kegs, mostly furnished by the Natoma Water and Mining
Company, for use in connection with the working of the numerous impor-
tant grape varieties furnished by them, for experimental wine-making. The
first part of the after-fermentation was thus very successfully carried out;
but it soon became apparent that the staves of the kegs furnished were
too thin, and allowed undue access of air through their pores, resulting in
the appearance of an acetous taint in some of the wines. There being no
means available for the purchase of kegs of proper thickness in the staves,
the original kegs were covered with a thick coat of refined paraffine, which
at once stopped the excessive evaporation and aeration.
Much of this difficulty was obviously due to the changes of tempera-
ture, which, with all possible care, it was impossible to avoid in the small,
thin-walled storage room, which then, as now, formed the only available
space for these experiments. Had a well-walled underground cellar been
at comniand, the greater part of the damage would doubtless have been
avoided, even in the thin kegs.
During the ^dntage work of 1884, the lack of space and proper con-
veniences for the viticultural work, on a scale commensurate with the
importance of the objects of the same, became glaringly apparent. The
details of the building and arrangements which could be made on the
basis of the original appropriation of $3,000, made for the purpose in 1880,
have been given in a previous rejDort (1882), and are again set forth in the
report of the Committee of the Viticultural Convention in 1884, which is
given in full below (p. 20). Considering the miscellaneous uses to which
both the fermenting and storage rooms had to be put under the pressure of
vintage work during the daily arrival of fresh lots of grapes, and the lack
of sufficient help to keep everything in proper condition alongside of the
current work, it is surprising that so many sound wines were made as
appeared in the exhibit of the University laboratory, at the Convention
held at San Francisco during the first week of December, 1884. This
exhibit led the Convention to inquire what were the facilities afforded for
this work by the State; and the report of the committee appointed for the
purpose by the Convention was unanimously adopted. This report, after
reciting the state of things, recommended that an appropriation of $10,000
be asked of the Legislature for the purpose of creating at the University a
viticultural laboratory, corresponding to the importance of the work it had
to do for viticulture in the State.
The subsequent history of this appropriation is in a great measure a
matter of public notoriety, and need not be recited here in detail. The
appropriation was made at the legislative session of 1885, but through the
insertion of a clause placing it under the "joint control" of the Board of
Regents of the University of California and the State Viticultural Commis-
sion, a question as to the intention of the Legislature in respect to its use
became possible; and the failure of the two bodies concerned in the matter
to agree upon its proper use during 1885, threw the vintage of that year
upon the same inadequate resources that had partially baffled the work
in 1884.
During the latter season, the laboratory had the benefit of the volunteer
services of the distinguished wine expert, Mr. F. PohndorfF, and his son,
2"
18
Mr. F. Pohndorff, Jr.; also, toward the end, for one month, those of Mr.
Geo. E. Colby, who was employed for the purpose by the State Viticultural
Commission; and without this help, it would have been impossible to carry
the work to its measurably successful issue. In 1885 it was aided by the
special appropriation made for working expenses by the Legislature of
1885, that allowed not only of an increase and improvement of appliances,
but also of the permanent employment of Mr. Geo. E. Colby, as second
assistant. We were still confronted by the impossibility of accommoda-
ting the \dntage of 1885 in a storage room already occupied by the products
of three previous vintages ; but this obstacle was fortunately overcome by
the permission granted of storing such wines in the basement of another
building. Under these circumstances it became possible to handle the
vintage of 1885 to some advantage. A new outfit of thick-walled kegs hav-
ing been procured, together with a special chamber for the temporary
storage of grapes as they arrived, and some other facilities, a measurably
successful season's work has been done for 1885. Some preliminary state-
ments regarding the same are given at the end of the present report, and
such of its results as have direct bearing upon previous work are inter-
woven in the text. As progress is made in the elaboration, the results will
be published in bulletin form, prior to their appearance in the annual report
for 1886.
Throughout our work, the inadequacy of the scale upon which it has
thus far been necessary to conduct it, has become more and more appar-
ent. Small quantities of wine are too easily influenced in their charac-
ter and development by slight accidental circumstances, as well as by
some which, in the nature of the case, it is almost impossible to avoid.
Among the latter is the " woody" taste likely to be imparted to them when
the inner svirface of the containing vessel bears such a large ratio to the
contained fluid; an influence which in the course of time becomes less and
less apparent in the same casks or kegs when due care is exercised, but is
still liable to influence unpleasantly the more delicately flavored wines.
The relatively larger surface offered by small packages as compared with
larger ones, also implies a proportionally greater ullage-loss, and much
trouble in the often repeated filling-up, for which it is difficult to keep
proper material on hand. Wine kept in bottles or vials for this purpose
always differs materially from that treated in kegs, and there is danger of
disturbing the normal development of the latter by the addition of the for-
mer. Hence, as heretofore mentioned, the ordinary filling-up has prefer-
ably been done by the addition of carefully cleaned fragments of Folsom
granite.
In working with small quantities there also arises great difficulty in
finding vessels of just the right size to be filled by the odd remnants from
racking and sampling, since, from the very smallness of quantities at com-
mand, it becomes important not to lose any available part thereof. Finally,
a very slight amount of acetification or other injurious change that may
occur near the bunghole or at a minute leak, will quickly become a matter
of serious moment in a package of a few gallons, while it would have re-
mained imperceptible in one of twenty gallons or more. It seems very
desirable that hereafter twenty gallons, or a half barrel, should be considered
the unit amount, instead of five gallons, as has mostly been the case here-
tofore. This involves, of course, not only the treatment of larger amounts
of grapes — say four hundred pounds instead of one hundred — but also
larger spaces both for fermentation and storage, than have been at com-
mand heretofore. That the storage space should also be better secured
19
against changes of temperature, has already been alluded to; hence a large
and entirely subterranean cellar is among the first needs of the laboratory,
which, it is hoped, may be secured in time for the vintage of 1886. The
temperature of such' a cellar will also, in the climate of Berkeley, be suffi-
ciently uniform to allow of very definite experiments on the influence of
the several methods of fermentation on Avines, on a scale that will render
the results directly available for practical purposes.
It may be asked why such experiments would not be as well, or even
better, made in wineries themselves. The reply is that in wineries where
the operations are of necessity conducted with a view to profit, and where
experimentation is only a collateral object among the great mass of mate-
rial under treatment, not only is the proper control of the surrounding con-
ditions rendered impracticable, but the accidental interference of persons
not cognizant of the nature or importance of the experiments, is most diffi-
cult to avoid. Hence such experiments reported from wineries are almost
always uncertain in demonstrating what they were intended to show, and
frequently give rise to incorrect conclusions, from the unknown intervention
of conditions not taken into account in the experiment. The careful sift-
ing of the evidence which is possible in a laboratory, often enables us to
determine in one year, points that otherwise, amid the conflicting evidence
derived from inaccurate observation and control, could not be settled in a
number of years. In this respect viticultural experiments do not differ
from those in other branches of agriculture.
However individual opinions may differ in respect to the hygienic and
ethical features of the use of wine, there can be no question of the obliga-
tion imposed upon the University, by the acceptance of the national dona-
tion for the establishment of a College of Agriculture, to give due attention
to viticulture and wine-making as a branch of agricultural industry of
rapidly growing importance. The special legislation existing on the sub-
ject, and under which the work herein reported has been done (see above),
merely strengthens this f)articular branch but does not create it. Even in
the absence of such legislation, it would be incumbent upon the Agricul-
tural Department of the University to teach the science and practice of
viticulture, and to contribute to its development by experimental research.
It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to state that while, in accordance with
the provisions of the law, instruction in the science and art of wine-making
is given to those desiring it, yet the wines made or received for examina-
tion are rigorously reserved for the purposes defined by the law, and that
neither students nor other persons can obtain them for any other purpose.
Reports to the contrary that have been circulated, whether by word of
mouth, or through the press, are simply and unqualifiedly untrue.
Outside of the work in the Viticultural Laboratory itself, a series of
investigations on the subject of the phylloxera, begun long ago when acting
in the capacity of viticultural assistant, have been continued by Mr. F.
W. Morse, assistant in the General Agricultural Laboratory. Having,
besides, been frequently detailed for field examinations regarding this
dangerous insect, at the request of the Viticultural Commission, and hav-
ing been employed by the latter during most of the University vacations
for the same purpose, Mr. Morse's experience in this matter is preiiminent,
and his observations deserve full confidence. I have thought it best to add
to the present report a full account of the observations made by him up to
this date, together with the results of an investigation on the subject of the
mercurial remedy for the phylloxera, that has occupied a good deal of time
during the autumn just past (1885), somewhat to the detriment of the
20
general work. The intrinsic importance of the subject, and the interest
excited by its discussion in the public press, seemed to justify this depart-
ure from the usual routine.
A self-explanatory document, printed at the time by order of the Board
of Regents, is appended to the report of this work:
Report of a Committee Appointed by the State Viticultural Convention, held at
San Francisco, December 1 to 6, 1884. Relating to the Work Done at the Viticult-
ural Laboratory of the State University.
The Viticultural Convention appointed a committee to investigate the facilities at the
University for such work, and to make such recommendations in connection therewith as
seemed fitting. The committee visited the University on Friday, December fifth, and their
report, offered on Saturday, was unanimously adopted. The report is as follows :
To the Slate Viticultural Convention:
Your committee appointed to visit the University of California, at Berkeley, and inspect
the experimental viticultural work there in progress, and report on the same, beg leave
to submit the following as their report:
There have been made, during the present season (1881), ninety-six (96) difterent tests
of wine and blends. In previous years forty-four (44), so that there are now on hand, one
hundred and forty (140) different experimental varieties to be treated, observed, and
recorded. Of those of })revious years, careful analyses have, in most cases, been made, and
results have been published in the periodical bulletins of the agricultural experiment sta-
tion. University of California. Of the test of this year, the analytical work yet remains to
be done, and it will require six months constant labor of an expert, to perfect the results
which are needful to complete jiublication of detailed information to viticulturists. This
work has been done, and is being prosecuted with a grievous lack of suitable facilities, and
it is to us a matter of great astonishment that so much has been accomplished in spite of
such obstacles.
The room for fermentation purposes we found to be only eighteen (18) feet square, and
a room of the same size has to serve the purpose of cellar to hold ail the one hundred and
forty (140) kinds of wine now being treated.
Few conveniences exist for the work in these ill-furnished and crowded rooms, no facil-
ities exist for controlling temperature, except such as have been improvised by the intro-
duction of coal oil stoves and one coal stove.
There is a great lack of suitable apparatus, books of viticultural authority, and. in fact,
all perfected appliances properly considered needful accessories of such delicate work.
Nothing but the skill of the Professor in charge, and the enthusiastic devotion of his
assistants, and voluntary aids, have made it possible to present to this Convention the
results which we have all witnessed with so much satisfaction and benefit.
So auspicious a commencement of a most valuable auxiliary for the intelligent develop-
ment of the viticultural interests of the State, demands at our hands something far more
than a complimentary recognition. This work should go on, and should be broadened in
its scope, so that the experimental and test viticultural work of the whole State may here
find prompt and adequate treatment.
Many thousands of dollars would have been saved to the vineyard planters, and the
interest have been proportionally advanced, could they have had access, at the time of their
planting, to the results of the tests made during the present year at the University's
"apology" for a Viticultural Laboratory.
And this is but a commencement of the needful work, for, year by year, the require-
ments of such aids to our viticultural work will increase; so that it may fairly be said
that such a laboratory, properly constructed and equipped, and skillfully conducted, will
be most powerfully instrumental in the intelligent, permanent, and profitable develop-
ment of our vineyard interest, which properly fostered may be safely counted on as the
most promising and important interest in the State.
We therefore deem it urgently important that this Convention take measures to exert
all its influence for the procureinent, from the next Legislature of the State, of an appro-
priation for the construction, equipment, and maintenance of a suitable "Viticultural
Experimental Laboratory," to be connected with the " Agricultural Department of the
University of California," and operated by its Professor and his assistants, in cooperation
with the Viticultural Commission of the State of California. And to that end we present
the following resolution, the passage of which by this Convention we earnestly recom-
mend :
Resolved, That the viticulturists of the State of California, in Convention assembled,
hereby respectfully request of the honorable Legislature of the State of California, that it
will cause to be appropriated, by the State, the sum of ten thousand dollars ($10,000) for
the construction and equipment of a suitable "Viticultural Experimental I..aboratory,"
in connection with the " Department of Agriculture of the University of California," to
be operated under the charge of the Professor of the said " Department of Agriculture"
and his assistants, for the benefit and advancement of the viticultural interest of this
State— and for the maintenance of said laboratory, to pay for necessary services of duly
21
qualified assistants to perform the detail work thereof, we request that an annual appro-
priation of not less than three thousand dollars (|3,000) be made, said appropriation to be
specifically and solely for the use of said " Viticultural Experimental Laboratory." And
we further recommend that a committee of five (5) suitable persons from its members be
appointed by the C'hairman of this Convention to take charge of the foregoing resolution
and to urge upon the Legislature the passage of such appropriations.
HORATIO P. LIVERMORE,
E. W. MASLIN,
J. B. J. PORTAL,
Dr. J. D. B. STILLMAN,
JOHN T. DOYLE,
Committee.
0x1 motion, the above committee was also constituted the Committee on
Legislation, called for in the above report.
A clause of the general appropriation bill of the legislative session of
1884:
For experimental and analytical viticultural work, under the joint control of the Board
of Regents of the University of California and of the State Board of Viticultural Commis-
sioners, ten thousand dollars.
With a view to determining the action to be taken under the above
clause, there was appointed by the Regents of the University, the following
Committee of Conference: George J. Ainsworth, J. West Martin, J. L. Beard.
A similar committee, appointed by the Board of Viticultural Commis-
sioners, consisted of Messrs. A. Haraszthy, C. A. Wetmore, Charles Krug,
J. De Turk, George West.
No agreement having been reached at a joint meeting of these commit-
tees, held at the University in June, 1885, it was suggested that written
statements of the several plans proposed should be submitted to the Board
of Regents at their next meeting. These statements, accompanying the
report of Regents' Committee, are given below:
[Extract from Proceedings of the Board of Kegents of date of May 23, 1885.]
Report of Committee on Viticulture.
San Francisco, May 23, 1885.
Honorable Board of Regents:
Gentlemen: We present herewith the recommendations of Professor Hilgard and of
Mr. Wetmore as to the best manner of expending the ten thousand dollar appropriation
made by the last Legislature for viticultural purposes under the joint control of the Board
of Regents and of the Viticultural Commission, recommending the approval of Professor
Hilgard's recommendation.
GEO. J. AINSWORTH.
J. WEST MARTIN.
Communication from C. A. Wetmore.
San Francisco, May 20, 1885.
<teo. .1. Ainsworth, Esq., Chnirman Committee of Conference, Board of Regents, State University :
Dear Sir: In accordance with the request of your committee, I have the honor to sub-
mit a brief statement of the proposition, suggested by the Viticultural Commission, as to
the manner of exercising joint control of the appropriation made by the Legislature for
"viticultural, experimefntal, analytical, and scientific work," etc.
Our proposition in substance is to provide for the execution of the work intended, under
the joint direction of those connected with our two institutions who have the most imme-
diate charge of the studies, investigations, and popular instruction, which are to be facili-
tated by the proper use of the funds under joint control, so that each department may
derive the greatest possible benefit therefrom, consistent with the public interest in the
work to be performed.
To this end we suggest that the Board of Regents appoint, on behalf of the University,
the Professor of Agriculture and the Professor of Chemistry, to unite in counsel and direc-
tion with the President and the Chief Executive Officer of this Commission, with full
authority to perform " viticultural, experimental, analytical, and scientific work," and to
22
provide such accommodations and apparatus, and to employ such services as may be
reqiaired, within the Hmits of the joint appropriation, each institution being free to make
such use of the results of such work independently for their several independent purposes
according to their individual judgment.
In order to provide for entire harmony of administration in using these funds, this
Commission is willing also that a fifth person, duly qualified, shall be either selected by
the gentlemen already mentioned, or shall be jointly appointed by the Boards of our two
mutually interested institutions, or by the Governor of the State, to unite in the work of
counsel and direction of the work to be performed.
This Commission, however, is quite willing, if the Board of Regents so prefer, to intrust
the entire work, without the selection of an intermediary fifth person, to the officers and
professors first mentioned, all of whom have heretofore mutually consulted, and are even
now, through the efforts of this Commission, working together in a common cause.
We presume, therefore, that your Board will find no diflBculty in deciding with us to
whom to intrust the work to be performed.
As to the scope of the work, that might be left to the judgment of those appointed to
direct the operations, with the understanding that each department is free to form such
opinions and draw such conclusions, as individual judgment nuiy require for the separate
uses of the Commission and the University.
Recognizing that one of the leading objects of this work is practical and technical
instruction, as well as also investigation of different methods known to the art of vinifica-
tion, for the special advantage of practical men engaging in an industry with which expe-
rience has not made them familiar, or in which they encounter new questions growing
out of new circumstances, our Commission has called your attention to the very great
importance of conducting the experimental operations, and prescribing the products for
exhibition and study under the control of a competent cellar-master in the City of San
Francisco, where suitable accommodations may be leased for the purpose, and we equally
recognize that work of purely analytical nature can best be conducted at Berkeley.
The University and this Commission have each their independent appropriation for
their separate uses, which will enable them to make such independent use of the informa-
tion to be derived by joint experimentation, as they may think proper. The experimental
cellar would produce authentic samples for analytical work at the University, would assist
the professors in acquiring much needed information connected with scientific researches,
and would afford a good opportunity for students to witness practical cellar operations,
whenever desirable, in connection with theoretical studies pursued at Berkeley.
The cellar will also enable this Commission to demonstrate the relative merits of differ-
ent methods of practical fermentation to those who desire such information, and to give
such knowledge as is necessary in giving to the public rules for practical use; we shall,
also, be enabled, through the aid of the cellar-master, to give simple instruction to begin-
ners in the ordinary a]ii)liances and methods of wine making, and throiigh liis assistance,
also, to preserve and compare for mercantile uses, samples of our native products, together
with those of other countries with which we may be in competition. By such mutually
cooperative action on the part of this Commission and the University, there need be no
confusion of effort, proper distinctions being made between the elementary instruction of
students in sciences valuable to the viticulturist, original scientific investigation, and
purely technical knowledge, and experimentation for practical uses.
Your Board is, therefore, invited to the consideration of two simple propositions, viz.:
First — The placing of the direction of the experimental work under the Professors of
Agriculture and Chemistry of the University and the President and Executive Officer of
this Commission, together with a fifth person, jointly agreed upon, if desired. Second — The
location of the experimental cellar and cellar-master in the City of San Francisco.
Respectfully sul^mitted for the Committee of the Viticultural Commission.
CHAS. A. WETMORE, Chairman.
C0MMUNIC.\TI0N FROM PeOF. E. W. HiLGARD.
Berkeley, May 13, 1885.
Geo. J. AiNswoRTH, Esq., Chairman Viticultural Committee of the Board of Regents:
Dear Sir: In accordance with your instructions "to prepare a brief statement of the
reasons why the viticultural work provided for by the appropriation of |10,000 should be
done at the University, and not at San Francisco as proposed by the Board of Viticultural
Commissioners," I respectfully submit the following considerations:
First— T\iG work which prompted the call by the Viticultural Convention for this appro-
priation was done at the University, and the resolutions clearly and jiointedly state that
the enlarged facilities for its continuance and enlargement are to be provided at the Uni-
versity.
Second — Such provision forms a necessary portion of the means for accomplishing the
ends for which the Agricultural College was established.
Experiment station work is more and more coming to be considered as an indispensa-
ble adjunct to the directly educational work of the colleges, and is now in progress at
every one of the colleges based upon the national land grant, so far as their means per-
mit. Farms, orchards, and vineyards, for illustrative and experimental purposes, are
connected with all those so located as to render it feasible.
It is and has been a matter of great regret that our institution is not in the latter cate-
23
gory; and this fact has led to a great deal of bitter criticism on the part of the agricultural
population. It is notorious that the experiment station work, inaugurated and carried
on in accordance with my recommendation, has been powerfully instrumental in quieting
this opposition ; since while we are not given the opportunity to instruct many students
in agriculture, such useful instruction has, through the experiment station work, been
extensively given to farmers at large.
Third — If, then, we are admittedly deficient in the means of practical demonstration
and experiments in general farming, it is the more necessary that we should have such
means in whatever branch they are attainable. This is preeminently the case in respect
to wine making, which can readily not only be illustrated, but actually taught in an exper-
imental cellar on a moderately adequate scale, in connection with the instruction in the
sciences pertaining to the subject. We are now offered the means and opportunity for
doing this; and if it should be allowed to escape us, the time for the establishment of
such a cellar and laboratory would simply be deferred, and demands for it would come
before future Legislatures. The Agricultural College of the State cannot permanently
resign to other hands that which it is its natural province to do, viz.: to give practical as
well as theoretical instruction in that branch of agriculture which is likely to become the
overshadowing interest in the State.
But in addition to the inherent merits of the case, there is an Act of the Legislature
which distinctly recognizes the need of such instruction and experimental work, and very
specifically imposes certain duties upon the Regents and the Professor of Agriculture.
The following are the points of the law under which we have been acting for nearly fi.ve
years past:
"It shall be the duty of the Board of Regents of the University to provide for special
instruction to be given by the agricultural department of the University, in the arts and
sciences pertaining to viticulture.
"In the theory and practice of fermentation, distillation, and rectification, and the man-
agement of cellars, to be illustrated by practical experiments with appropriate apparatus.
"Also, to direct the Professor of Agriculture, or his assistant, to make personal examina-
tions and reports upon the different sections of the State adapted to viticulture. To
examine and report upon the woods of the State procurable for cooperage. To make
analyses of soils, wines, brandies, and grapes at the proper request of citizens of the State.
"The Regents shall also cause to be prepared, printed, and distributed to the public
quarterlj^ reports of the professor in charge of this work, relating to experiments under-
taken, scientific discoveries, the progress and treatment of the phylloxera and other dis-
eases of the vine, and such other useful information as may be given for the better
instruction of viticulturists."
Another article provides for the establishment of experimental vineyards, under the
direction of the Universitj\
This law, now in force, has been complied with to the full extent of the means provided,
and the appropriation now under discussion was made clearly in view of this law, which
was read before the Viticultural Convention bj^ the Chief Executive Officer, Mr. Wetmore,
at the time when the resolutions, siibsequently adopted, were under consideration. It is
not easy to see how the University can divest itself of the obligations thus imposed, by
the proposed surrender of the work to the Viticultural Commission.
Fourth — The proposed establishment in the City of San Francisco would not only lack
that permanency which the acceptance of the national grant has inalienably*imposed
upon the State in the case of the College of Agriculture, but it would be practically useless
so far as the educational and experimental purposes of the University are concerned. So
far as any joint control goes the daily duties of the two University professors, who are
proposed as two of the Directors, confine them so closely to the University that the work
in the city would be practically in the hands of the Viticultural Commission alone. My
experience in connection with the late Board of Silk Culture has taught me the useless-
ness of attempting to exact any close supervision of any concern located in the city, and
I should respectfully decline to assume any such responsibility in matters where my pro-
fessional reputation is involved. Admitting all the practical ability of the Commission
members as wine-makers, I cannot concede to them, or to a cellar-master employed by
them, the habit of close and accurate observation necessary in systematic investigation of
such delicate and complex su])jects, involving some of the most intricate problems of
chemistry and physics, even as concerns the proper observance of external conditions.
If any proof of this were needed, my experience of the past few years has amply taught
me the need of the daily and hourly supervision of every detail, in order to secure reliable
results. I cannot afford, and the tJniversity cannot afford, to subscribe to and be respon-
sible for results obtained outside of such close professional supervision.
Fifth — It is not denied that such an establishment as is proposed by the Viticultural
Commission would be very useful in its sphere, and that a sum of money would be very
properly devoted to such purpose; and furthermore, I may saj"-, both for myself and for
my colleague, that all the aid we could give it would be most freely given, not only directly
in the way of suggestions, analyses of products, etc., but also in carrying out at the Uni-
versity laboratories any experiments desired by the Commission that would require means
and appliances not at their command. Such cooperation has heretofore been freely offered,
although only very partially utilized, viz.: in the matter of examinations respecting the
phylloxera. I am unable to see why such cooperation cannot be enlarged to the full
extent to which it can benefit the general interest, without crippling either of the working
bodies. The latter would be the condition of the University Viticultural Laboratory if
24
the proposition of the Commission were acceded to, for it would not only be unable to
receive the students now actually applying for instruction therein, but would also, for
want of cellar room, be unable to carry on the experimental work during the coming vint-
age. The large appropriation, $30,000, at the command of the Commission, seems to
render such a state of things uncalled for, to say the least; nor would it in any respect
conform to the expectations of those through whose influence the appropriation now under
discussion has been obtained.
Respectfully,
E. W. HILGARD,
Professor of Agriculture.
On motion, duly seconded, the plans proposed by Professor Hilgard were
adopted by the Board of Regents.
WINE FERMENTATION.
It is admitted on all hands that the period of fermentation is the most
important one in the life of wines, and that whatever may be the excellence
of the grape used, the quality of the wine may be made or marred in the
management of its fermentation — that portion of it known as the ^dolent
fermentation being of predominent influence. A brief statement of the
main points involved in this important process is the more called for, as
much discussion, and not a little wild and random enunciation on the sub-
ject has occurred in this State during the past two years. We should not
cut loose from the long and dearly-bought experience of the past, and
hastily adopt practices derived from one-sided hypotheses, based upon a
few ill-devised and inconclusive experiments.
The Several FermenfMions. — That the virions fermentation is characterized
by the transformation of sugar into about equal proportions of alcohol,
which remains in the fermenting mass, and of carbonic acid gas, which
escapes, and causes the "boiling" and sizzing of the fermenting liquor, are
matters of common note. It is also now pretty commonly understood that
there are several other kinds of fermentation, yielding different products.
Amon^ these, those of chief importance to the wine-maker are the lactic, the
butyric, the mucous, and the mannite fermentations, in which sugar is
transformed, respectively, into lactic acid (the acid of sour milk), butyric
acid (that of rancid butter), a mucilaginous substance resembling gum,
and mannite, a non-fermentable sugar of purgative, medicinal properties;
and the acetous, in which alcohol is further transformed into acetic acid or
vinegar. One or several of these processes often seriously injure the quality
of wines, and their occurrence must be avoided as much as possible. Hence
the conditions that bring them about should be fully understood.
As regards the four first mentioned — the vinous, lactic, butjTic, and
mucous fermentations — it is well understood that their occurrence is con-
ditioned upon the presence of certain minute vegetable cells, known in
general as ferments, and in the case of the vinous fermentation, more espec-
ially designated as yeast; and it is fvirthermore well established that the
predominance of certain physical conditions apart from the presence of the
specific ferments or germs, tends to promote one or the other of the above
kinds of fermentation, or what is equivalent, the development of its peculiar
ferment. Chief among these controlling conditions, are: First, the temper-
ature; second, the greater or less acidity of the fermenting liquid. A nec-
essary condition of all is the absence, or presence in minute quantity only,
of such substances as are commonly known as disinfectants, or antiseptics,
25
and poisons. Such substances (arsenic, chlorine, sulphurous gas, carbolic,
salicylic, boracic, sulphuric, and other strong mineral acids, also strychnine,
morphine, and related poisons, etc.), not only arrest the action of the fer-
ments, but, according to circumstances, may completely kill them, so as to
render them incapable of reviving their action even in an uncontaminated
fluid or mass.
It should be remembered in this connection, that alcohol itself is one of
the substances which arrest fermentation; hence its use in preserving
fermentable substances, as in the case of brandied fruits, alcoholic spec-
imens of animals or their parts, and the like; and hence, also, the prac-
tically important fact that the vinous fermentation arrests itself so soon
as the alcohol formed rises to from 15 to 16 per cent (by volume) of the
fermented liquid, the possible maximum varying somewhat with the tem-
perature at which the fermentation takes place, and with the presence
or absence of other substances that influence fermentation. Hence the
alcohol-percentage of unfortified wines can never exceed a certain, slightly
variable, maximum; hence also, fermentation can be s'topped at any time,
by the addition of as much alcohol as will raise the contents of the liquid
above such maximum; as is done in the manufacture of ports and some
sherries, the alcohol-percentage of which ranges from about 18 to 24 per
cent. The other fermentations above referred to are similarly arrested by
the presence of a large proportion of alcohol; hence, wines naturally strong,
or fortified, are thereby preserved, not only from a recurrence of the alco-
holic fermentation, but also from the others which, in weaker wines, con-
stantly threaten their permanence and quality.
Wines naturally possessing such alcoholic strength are, however, the
exception, although more common in California than elsewhere, outside of
the Mediterranean countries. It therefore becomes necessary to consider
what other conditions influence the keeping qualities, both during and after
fermentation.
Ingredients of Must. — Besides the two prominent ingredients, namely
water and sugar, must contains in smaller, but very variable proportions,
other matters of which those that greatly concern the wine-maker are the
following: Bitartrate of potash (argol, or when pure, cream of tartar), tar-
taric acid, malic acid. These are usually, when stating the analysis of a
must or wine, given under one head, referred to tartaric acid only (in Europe
sometimes to sulphuric acid), in tenths of per cent or "pro mille;" from
three to six pro mille being the usual amounts in ripe grapes, although in
some years it may rise to eight and even ten.
Besides the acids, the must contains at least two other classes of impor-
tant substances, which together constitute the main part of the " body" or
*' extract " of wine. Without going into details, these ingredients may be
classed under the heads of "albuminoids" or substances resembling flesh,
white of egg, etc., and gummy matters, or those belonging to the same class
as starch, sugar, and the vegetable jellies. Of these the former are usually
present in minute quantities only (one to three pro mille of the must) ; but
their presence is of the highest importance, inasmuch as they enter largely
into the composition of the yeast cells, without which fermentation can not
take place. Their presence to a certain extent is therefore highly essential
to fermentation; but after this is completed, whatever remains over consti-
tutes a grave danger to the stability of the wine, these substances being
themselves very unstaljle. They should therefore be gotten rid of as much
as possible. Some of the " gummy" class, likewise, are very easily change-
able, especially under the influence of the air. These, also, should be got-
26
ten rid of as soon as practicable, whether before or after fermentation; they
ahvays form a greater or less proportion of the lees.
When air is allowed to bubble through freshly pressed and filtered must,
the clear fluid becomes turbid and a brownish sediment, consisting of the
above two classes of substances, gathers in flocks. Such aerated must fer-
ments more quickly and completely than must not so treated, and the
wine clears quicker and keeps better. But when no such treatment has
been given, these substances come down gradually during the after-fermen-
tation and racking, when air comes in contact with the wine to a greater
or less extent.
Constituents of Wine. — The changes wrought in must by fermentation
may be thus summed up:
The sugar is transformed, on an average, into —
Alcohol - 48.4 per cent.
Carbonic acid gas . 4(>.6 per cent.
Glycerine 3.3 per cent.
Succinic acid .6 per cent.
Yeast ingredients .1.2 per cent.
100.0 per cent.
It will be noted that the alcohol in the above statement amounts to
somewhat less than half the total sugar: but in the usual mode of stating
the alcoholic contents of wines (by "volume"), it maybe pretty closely
taken at one half. The gas and yeast are in the end eliminated entirely
from the wine. The rest, of course, remain, the glycerine exerting a marked
influence upon the "body" and " smoothness" of the wine; while not much
is known as regards the office of succinic acid, which has faintly acid,
slightly pungent taste.
As regards the acids, they are almost always found sensibly diminished
at the conclusion of a healthy fermentation. This arises mainly from the
throwing down of the tartar or argol with the lees by the alcohol, in which
it is difficultly soluble. Malic acid is also changed into succinic acid. So
soon, however, as the after-fermentation approaches its end, the acid again
begins to increase, in consequence of the action of the air, which, apart from
other influences, constantly tends to transform the alcohol into acetic acid
or vinegar. In the large-scale production of red wines especially, the acid
is very commonly found to be increased instead of diminished at the end of
even the violent fermentation; and this is usually traceable mainly to the
formation of acetic acid, which, however, should not exceed a few tenths of
a " pro mille" in perfectly sound and well made wines. The amount of acid
to be desired in wines varies somewhat with their character, but in general
should not fall below 4, nor rise much above 6 pro mille.
The body or extract of perfectly dry wines (i. e., those containing no resi-
due of sugar) , ranges from a little over 1 in the lightest white wines to a
little over 3 per cent in the heaviest reds. A portion of the substances
classed under this head always, of cov;rse, consists of glycerine. In sweet
wines the solid contents, including sugar, range all the way from 4 to as
much as 24, and even 39 per cent; 5 to 6 being what is usually found in
ports and sherries, 14 to 15 in Angelica.
The odorous ingredients of wine are, with one exception, present in such
minute quantities that chemical analysis can only partially determine even
their nature, much less their quantity. Their appreciation and distinc-
tion, however important and decisive as to the estimation in which the wine
is held, belongs exclusively to the province of the taster. The exception
27
referred to is that of the ''oil of wine" (oenanthic ether), which imparts the
"vinous" flavor, and is prominent in Cognac brandies. It is the "fusel oil"
of grape pomace. In "pricked " wines, acetic ether also-becomes prominent,
so as to be quantitatively determinable.
CIRCUMSTANCES THAT DETERMINE THE SEVERAL FERMENTATIONS.
Outside of the presence of the specific ferments belonging to the several fer-
mentations, and of the materials upon which their life depends, temperature
is the controlling factor in all; governing not only their intensity — the
rapidity with which the transformations progress — but also determining to
a very material extent the predominance of one over the other, as well as
the quality of the product within one and the same fermentation. As
regards the vinous fermentation, this fact is familiar enough to bread-
makers in their daily experience ; it is no less true and important in the
making of wines. The neglect of the proper management of the tempera-
ture is the cause of by far the greater proportion of faults in commercial
wines; and the elaborate and costly precautions taken to secure its control,
in the countries where wine-making is conducted under the best profes-
sional skill, are ample evidence of the almost paramount importance of this
point. It is not a little singular that while this perfect and accurate adap-
tation of the fermenting temperature to the desired result has become a
settled practice in the case of beer, in which the thermometer and the ice
machine now control the whole process, there is' as yet in the case of the
higher-priced product — wine — a lingering disposition to trust to haphazard
and " doctoring," rather than to the well demonstrated principles that gov-
ern all vinous fermentation; and this is true even of many whose preten-
sions to professional knowledge are of the loudest.
Fervient Germs. — The presence of the ferment germs may fairly be
assumed to be universal in the lower portions of the atmosphere, at least
outside of remote desert regions. On the summits of high and especially
of snow-capped mountains, they have at times been found to be either very
scarce or entirely absent. But wherever vegetation is abundant and where,
therefore, its decomposition currently serves as food for the several fer-
mentative germs, their absence is impossible and their occasional scarcity
not well demonstrated. When the surface of a sound grape berry is fully
disinfected, and the juice is pressed and left to itself where only perfectly
pure (filtered) air can reach it, fermentation does not occur until yeast or
impure air is admitted to it. This experiment shows that the germs adhere
to the outside of the berries, so that by the ordinary methods of wine-mak-
ing they pass abundantly into the must. There, under a favorable temper-
ature, they develop and start active fermentation within from twenty-four
to forty-eight hours. During this interval, however, the must may be sub-
ject to various injurious influences, apart from the loss of time involved in
waiting during this " period of incubation." It is, therefore, better to follow
the example of the brewer, who starts the active fermentation within a few
hours by the addition of the proper yeast, ready formed and active. The
delicacy of wine flavors, and the requirements of long keeping, render the
use of ordinary yeast, even of that of beer unless first washed, altogether
inexpedient; and it is quite unnecessary in any well-arranged winery to
resort to any means beyond the introduction of a few bucketfuls of must
already in active fermentation, from other tanks, or from a cask previously
started for the purpose ; with washed beer yeast, if necessary, but ordinarily
28
of its own accord, in advance of the regular vintage operations. The new
must will thus be started promptly in the right direction, and time is also
saved.
Use of Flour Yeast. — Regarding the recommendation of the use of com-
mon " compressed" or bread yeast, or sponge made therefrom, it need only
be said that in doing so the vintner introduces into his wine substances
which are not only likely to impair the taste and flavor of the wine, but
which tend to injure materially its keeping qualities. These disadvan-
tages are well known to accompany the use of glucose, which contains
only a small proportion of the dangerous ingredients of grain flour; and
how easily the latter turns into the milk- and vinegar-sour fermentation, is
too well known to housekeepers to require comment. As above stated,
among the most important points to be accomplished in the after treat-
ment of wines, is the elimination of the decomposable glutinous ingredients
naturally contained in the must, that constitute a standing menace to the
keeping of the wine. To add to these, unnecessarily at that, by introducing
the still more unstable gluten of cereal flour, is too irrational a proceeding
to be countenanced for a moment.
When, in the absence of fresh grapes, a new start for fermentation is
needed, it can be given in the most efiicacious and unobjectionable manner
by preparing a mash of raisins, which, after the fermentation has set in,
can be used instead of the fermenting must from the tanks.
INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE.
Low and High (or Bottom and Top) Vvnmis Fermentation. — The most obvi-
ous effect ordinaril}^ observed as to the influence of temperature upon fer-
mentation, is that within the ordinary limits, it appears the more intense
the warmer the fermenting liquid becomes. But close observation shows
that not only does this rule not hold good for temperatures above certain
limits, beyond which fermentation is weakened and finally stops altogether,
but also that the product varies essentially in quality according to the tem-
perature at which the fermentation has been conducted. In the manufac-
ture of beer, this has long been recognized and carried out in practice, in the
commercially established difference between low-fermented and high-fer-
mented beers; the former yielding the higher quality and best keeping
and shipping product. Low fermentation proper occurs at temperatures
between 40° and 62°, and in the case of beer, is kept near the former figure;
while high fermentation takes place above 62°, and is the one to which
wines in California, France, and Southern Europe generally, are habit-
ually subjected. The wines of Germany, and especially the high bouquet
Rhine and Moselle wines, are on the contrary fermented, as a rule, below
60° and are distinctly low-fermented.
It should be understood that the yeasts of the two kinds of fermentation
are in a measure distinct, and that a wine or wort once started in on one kind
of fermentation cannot be started on the other kind by a mere change of
temperature, unless the change be very slow. The low-ferment acts but
feebly at a high temperature, and the high-ferment as feebly at a low one.
Of course it may easily happen that at intermediate, or frequently chang-
ing temperatures, the fermentation is also a mixed one; but since in that
case neither of the two kinds of yeast finds the circumstances best suited
to its development, the fermentation lags and other processes readily take
possession and precedence. It is therefore best, in the fermentation of
29
wine as well as in that of beer, that one or the other kind should be dis-
tinctly aimed at by the appropriate regulation of the temperature.
Probably no low- fermented wine has as yet been produced in California;
hence, it is quite natural that nothing exactly like the low-fermented Rhine
and Moselle wines has ever yet appeared among the wines of the State,
although the same varieties of grapes are commonly grown; for the fer-
menting rooms in which the appropriate temperature prevails could here
only be commanded by means of artificial refrigeration, unless, perhaps, on
the highest part of the foothills where grapes can be successfully grown.
The distinctive characters of the products of high and low fermentation
may be thus summed up: The low-fermented possess more delicate aromas
than the high-fermented, and less of the coarser "fusel oils," and keep for
a great length of time, even with low alcohol percentages. They mature
slowly, and retain their best qualities for many years. High-fermented
wines acquire their best condition more quickly, biii their qualities are also
much sooner lost; i. e., they soon cease to improve with age. In order to
keep and ship well, they require a higher alcohol percentage than the low-
fermented wines; hence, if this greater strength does not naturally exist,
it must be reached by fortification. The latter is, therefore, a very com-
monly prevailing practice in the southern wine countries, where high fer-
mentation is the rule.
The naturally high temperature of the California vintage season, and the
slight protection usually afforded by the light winery structures against its
access to the fermenting rooms, have thus far secured exclusive high fer-
mentation; so high, in fact, that among the commonest faults of our wines
are those resulting from this high temperature, which favors the develop-
ment of other ferments than the vinous, while repressing that of the latter,
and not uncommonly entirely killing it, completely arresting fermentation
while there is yet abundance of sugar present.
Temperature of Most Active High Fermentation. — The greatest activity of
the proper fermentation of must — that is, that corresponding to the most
rapid formation of alcohol and carbonic gas — is found by actual trial to lie
between 65 and 75 degrees, or, according to others, between 70 and 77
degrees, doubtless varying somewhat according to the character of the
must. Now, the temperatures found in our fermenting tanks range mostly
between 85 and 105 degrees, and very many are under the impression that
these high temperatures accelerate the vinous fermentation. As a matter
of fact, the very reverse is true. Not only is the desired fermentation retarded
thereby^ hut the undesirable processes of the lacto-b%ityric and mannite fermenta-
tion are thereby afforded an opportunity for development, since their greatest
activity lies between about 77 and 95 degrees. This fact alone accounts for a
large proportion of the cases of "milksour" wines; and, broadly speaking,
the high temperatures occurring in fermentation are doubtless among the
most prominent causes of the defects in the keeping and shipping qualities
of California wines. It follows that measures for keeping the temperature of
fermentation vnthin lower limits, are among the most pressing needs of our
ivine-making industry.
The Lacto-butyric, Mucous, and Mannite fermentations may as well be con-
sidered jointly, since the circumstances favoring their occurrence are sub-
stantially the same. As stated above, the most favorable temperature for the
lacto-butyric fermentation lies decidedly higher than that for the vinous.
Hence the extreme care given in the manufacture of beer and whiskies to
the rapid cooling of the wort or mash to the temperature most favorable to
30
the alcoholic fermentation. When this is omitted the lactic ferment soon
develops and quickly transforms the sugar into lactic acid and water; and
this happens the more readily the less acid the liquid originally contains.
If nearly neutral, or slightly " alkaline " (as when lime or soda is added to
the mash), the lactic fermentation is accompanied or quickly followed by
the butyric fermentation, in which not only the sugar, but also the tartar
present is attacked, and is partly transformed into the cheesy-smelling
compounds of butyric acid, leaving in the end a stale but slightly sweetish
liquid, which contains more or less of the unfermentable " mannite " sugar.*
At times, and under circumstances not fully understood, the formation of
a gummy or mucous substance out of the sugar takes precedence of all else,
and a stale, ropy liquid, or ropy wine, is the outcome.
Importance of the Initial Temperature. — It should be distinctly understood
that the greatest importance attaches to the first start in the fermentation.
Whichever kind makes the first start gains a material advantage relative to
the rest. We are under the necessity of assuming that the germs of all are
present at the beginning, whether entirely distinct in their nature, or (as is
known to be true in the case of top and bottom fermentation, at least) capa-
ble of passing into one another under favoring circumstances. When the
must enters the tank at a temperature most favorable to lacto-butyric fer-
mentation (as is so commonly the case in the interior of California, where
grapes fresh from the vineyard show a heat of from 90 to 110 degrees, and
are immediately crushed into a tank, also exposed to the outside tempera-
ture, in wineries built of single-board shells) the germs of that character
are sure to develop, and to influence unfavorably the character of the wine,
even if afterward the vinous fermentation sets in at a lower and more favor-
ing temperature. But if, as not uncommonly happens, the high temperature
continues, and, perhaps, even rises in consequence of the beginning of vinous
fermentation, the lacto-butyric and mannite processes may finally gain the
precedence altogether, when the wine is definitively spoiled. .
A similar state of things may, of course, occur when after a proper start-
ing of the vinous fermentation, the temperature rises too high, in conse-
quence of a too large mass of fermenting liquid. The vinous germs will
weaken and cease to increase; may cease action altogether, or finally may
be entirely killed, leaving the field open for the lacto-butyric germs, which
are hardier at high temperatures. In some cases, however, even these suc-
cumb to the heat, after which a new supply of yeast must be introduced,
in order to start any fermentation whatsoever. This '' arrest of fermenta-
tion" has been of common occurrence during the vintage of 1885, which
took place mainly during very hot weather, and was hastily gathered, the
grapes being crushed hot as they came from the vineyard. As a conse-
quence, very many of the wines contain a remnant of unfermented sugar,
which will greatly endanger their soundness, unless promptly dealt with.
The Acetic fermentation differs from all the rest, in that its continuance
is essentially conditioned upon a continued supply of air, without which
the ferment cannot transform the alcohol into acetic acid or vinegar. It
is, therefore, much more easily controlled than the other fermentations,
which continue even in the absence of air, when once started.
Like the fermentations just discussed, the acetic is most energetic at
*The formation of the latter seems in all cases to accompany the hutyric fermentation,
in consequence, doubtless, of an easily intelligible process of reduction by the hydrogen
eliminated in the process alongside of carbonic acid gas.
31
temperatures above those at which the alcohoHc fermentation is most rapid ;
that is, temperatures ranging from 77 to 95 degrees are most favorable to
it. But like other fermentations, it progresses slowly at much lower ones.
The high temperatures of fermenting tanks of red wine are, therefore, most
favorable to it; and, other things being equal, it is the more energetic the
larger the surface exposed to air. There can, therefore, be nothing better
adapted to this process than the '' cap " of floating pomace, which is still, in
most cases, allowed to be formed in red-wine tanks; for, not only is the
temperature there the highest, but the wine just formed is exposed to the
air in thin layers overspreading the grape skins, and abundance of ferment
is everywhere. When, therefore, this cap is allowed to be formed and
exposed to the air during the fermentation, a regular vinegar manufactory
is established on top of the tank; and if afterward that cap is submerged,
or pressed with the rest of the pomace, not only does it impart to the wine
a large proportion of acetic acid ready formed, but it also communicates
to it an abundance of the inciting germs. Such wine, if not already
''pricked" when drawn off, will inevdtably become so under the ordinary
manipulations of the cellar, that would leave a well-made wine unharmed.
Other things being equal, a strong wine is much less liable to acetic fer-
mentation than a weak one; apparently from the same cause which stops
alcoholic fermentation when a certain alcohol percentage has been reached.
The presence of a large proportion of alcohol, as of other poisons or disin-
fectants, paralyzes or kills the ferment, and thus stops the process. Hence,
well-fortified wines are not liable to " pricking." But there are some wines
which resist acetification much better than others of equal alcoholic
strength. Such is the case with the "natural" sherries and ports, which
may remain exposed to the air to acquire their peculiar flavors, without
any sensible increase of acetic acid at least; while, e. g., the Zinfandel, with
equal alcohol percentage, would promptly turn into vinegar. In the case
of wines derived from grapes not of that peculiar character, the necessary
exposure to air can be given under the protection of a higher alcohol per-
centage; i. e., fortification to from 18 to 24 per cent of alcohol. The neces-
sity of the most thorough cleaning and disinfection by means of " sulphur-
ing," of casks, or liming tanks that have been emptied of their contents,
depends, also, upon the principles stated above, since, otherwise, the acetic
ferment formed on the sides would be sure to contaminate any wine subse-
quently introduced, and predispose it to " pricking " at the least opportu-
nity. So with the presses, troughs, and, in fact, every wooden surface that,
after being soaked with wine, has to be left in contact with air for some
length of time. Simple washing with water is not enough to forestall this
danger, because the germs are not killed thereby, and can scarcely be
fully removed by any mechanical process.
The want of strict attention to these needful precautions against "prick-
ing," explains the too common occurrence of an excessive proportion of
acetic acid in California wines, which, even when it does not reach the
point at which the taster would place the wine into the " pricked " class,
yet leaves within them the germ of disease, ready to develop at the first
favorable opportunity. When, on entering a winery during the vintage
season, the nostrils are assailed by the odor of vinegar, whether from the
tanks themselves, or from pomace or other offal carelessly left around to
sour, the experienced wine dealer will at once mark down the price of the
product to a corresponding extent, to cover the risks he will have to incur
in the handling of wines so liable to deteriorate on his hands, or on those
of his customers.
32
CONSERVATION OF WINES.
As a rule, wines thoroughly well made from sound, ripe grapes, will,
under proper care, become clear and remain sound without any addition,
whether of finings or preservatives, unless in certain cases, where fortifica-
tion is necessary. Well-made wine needs no " doctoring," beyond the blend-
ing with such other wines as may impart to it the particular qualities
desired by consumers; but such blends should, whenever practicable, be
made prior to fermentation.
When working on a small scale there is no difficulty in fulfilling the con-
ditions needed for the production of such tyj^ical wines, when the proper
knowledge and appliances are at command; and it is well known that the
highest class wines of commerce are nearly all produced in small establish-
ments. The reverse is, however, not true; for a very large proportion of
wines made by small peasant proprietors in Europe is very faulty — in the
case of Italy too often grotesquely so — vinegar-sour, milk-sour, and rank-
flavored from excessive maceration on the skins and stems. This of course
results mostly from ignorance of the art of wine-making; and the faulty
wines gathered in by the wine merchants test severely the skill of their
experts, in the attempt to disguise and modify their faylts, so as to render
them fairly merchantable. On the other hand, in very large establish-
ments, it is not easy, in the hurry of the vintage, to oversee as closely as
should be done, every detail of the several operations, or to guard the prog-
ress of fermentation in each tank, without employing a larger number of
experts than is commonly thought necessary. Hence, such establishments
are more likely to produce fair average wines, none probably as faulty as
those made by an ignorant peasant proprietor, yet rarely of the best quality
that could be produced from a given material under more careful surveil-
lance than the wholesale mode of procedure usually permits.
In a report made to the State Viticultural Commission in May, 1884, I
have made a summary statement (reprinted below, p. 39) of the chief
causes that contribute to unsoundness in our wines. They are there placed
under three chief heads, viz.:
1. Want of care in respect to the exclusion of unsound grapes from the
crushing process.
2. Excessive rise of temperature during the violent fermentation.
3. Undue access of air, allowing of partial acetification.
I might add a third, which, while not rendering the wines positively
unsound, injures materially their marketable condition, viz.:
4. Want of sufficient aeration prior to or during one or both fermenta-
tions, preventing the final clearing of the wine.
While the latter fault (which, however, is not incompatible with the
simultaneous existence of one or several of the others) can only be remedied
by a proper subsequent aeration, the faults resulting from improper fer-
mentations are usually remedied by antiseptic treatment, intended to kill
the germs, upon the presence of which the several fermentations are con-
ditioned. This treatment is substantially of two kinds, either the addition
of antiseptics to the wines, or the heating process known as "pasteurizing."
A. Addition of Antiseptics. — As before stated, any of the fermentations
above referred to may be stopped by the action of the substances known as
disinfectants, antiseptics, or poisons. It should be unnecessary to argue
regarding the admissibility of additions coming properly under the latter
designation; yet it is true that in Europe such additions have not unfre-
quently been discovered in wines that, if left to themselves, would soon
have become unsaleable. It is not easy to draw the exact line between
poisons proper, and those substances of which the use to a certain degree,
and in a certain way, may be considered admissible for the purpose of
stopping undesirable fermentations in wines. There is, however, one point
of view which covers the whole ground in connection with the use of wines
for hygienic purposes, namely: that whatever impedes fermentations, also
impedes digestion, which is itself in a great degree a process of fermenta-
tion. The habitual use of wines containing antiseptics will, therefore, inev-
itably result in functional derangements ; and this is so well understood
that in Europe the extreme amounts of those allowed at all, is strictly lim-
ited by law. Thus in the case of sulphuric acid, one of the germicides
most commonly employed, partly in the form of the acid itself, but more
commonly in that of plaster (sulphate of lime) added to the grapes, or to
the wine itself. The tartaric acid of the wine is thus partially or wholly
replaced by the sulphuric, tartrate of lime being thrown down; and thus
badly made wines may be prevented from passing onward into the im-
proper fermentations, and becoming undrinkable. Salicylic acid is effectual
in much smaller quantities, and at one time it was thought that it would
be admissible to employ it freely. But while its effects upon the human
system are not apparent at first in most cases, yet the decided and unpleas-
ant results often produced in the case of persons of weak digestion, have
but served to emphasize the general axiom, that we cannot, with impunity,
continue to introduce into the human body substances foreign to the vege-
table and animal products that have from time immemorial constituted the
nutriment of mankind. If some persons are able to bear for a time, doses
of salicylic acid that will completely stop digestion for some hours in the
case of others, it is altogether unlikely that even the strongest person could
continue its use indefinitely without injury. After some years of toleration,
the legal prohibition of its use in articles of food or drink seems, in Europe,
to be only a question of time; the more as in the case of wines, the process
of "pasteurizing" removes all legitimate reason for the longer continuation
of a doubtful practice, liable to gross abuse.
In view of this fact, it is curious that its use for the conservation of must
in the unfermented condition, has not only been extensively introduced in
this country, but the resulting beverage is specially recommended as a
healthful and harmless substitute for wine, by those who consider alcohol
as necessarily harmful in any form and quantity. A few years' experience
will doubtless show how unfortunate has been the choice of a substitute in
this case.
^^ Sidphuring ." — The substance most widely used for stopping all kinds
of fermentation in wines is the gas from burning sulphur — sulphurous gas.
The great efficacy of this substance, the ease wit^ which it can be pro-
duced and used, and gotten rid of when not wanted any more, without
detriment to the wine, constitute strong recommendations, especially in
view of its disagreeable odor, which prevents its being consumed in any
considerable quantity. Its proper use in the art of wine-making is con-
stant and indispensable; "and the amount of sulphuric acid ultimately
introduced into wine by its reasonable use is usually insignificant. But in
the case of red wines especially, its employment is limited by the injury to
color as well as flavor that would ensue if the action were continued too
long. It is therefore inadmissible to apply it to such wines for conserva-
tion during long storage or shipment. But it would be difficult to replace
3'
34
it, in the cellar, by anything that would so well subserve its proper object —
the prevention of acetification and moulding, whether of wines or empty
packages.
B. Pasteurizing. — The process of " pasteurizing " consists simply in heat-
ing the wine to a temperature sufficiently high to insure the killing of all
fermentative germs. The lowest temperature at which this can be accom-
plished with certainty was ascertained by Pasteur to lie at or about 140° Fhr.,
or 60° Centigrade ; and he also found that when the heating and subsequent
cooling of the wine is quickly done, so that it remains at the high temper-
ature only a very short time, in a closed space, it suffers no sensible change
in flavor or bouquet, and is thereafter subject to no further fermentative
change without a new introduction of germs. " Pasteurizing " is simply an
application of the same principle under which the putting-up of fruit in
sealed cans or jars is daily done, to the particular case of wines, in which
the delicacy of the aromas, and especially the necessity of avoiding a
"cooked" flavor, are specially guarded. From 140' to 150° Fhr., are the
usual limits observed for wines.
The pasteurizing apparatus embraces properly two separate parts, the
heater and the cooler; but in the lower grades of wine especially, the latter
is sometimes omitted, and the wine after passing the heater flows directly
into the casks in which it is to be stored or shipped.
Both heater and cooler are commonly given the form of still worms,
longer and of smaller diameter than in ordinary condensers; one immersed
in water heated by steam (or, not so well, by direct fire), and so arranged
that the temperature of the outflowing wine can be readily observed at the
point where it passes into the cooler. Still better results are obtained by
passing the wine through a bundle of small short tubes immersed in hot
water, in which the needful temperature is very quickly acquired and then
as quickly lost in the cooler. This form is, however, more difficult of con-
struction and more costly than the former. Bottled wine may also be pas-
teurized in the bottle by immersion, first in suitably hot and then in cold
water. In tliis case the heating as well as the cooling is of necessity much
slower than in the continuously working open worm, and breakage is liable
to occur; but when carefully performed, the operation does not impair even
delicate bouquets, doubtless in consequence of the complete closure of the
bottles. The Muscat aroma seems, however, to be seriously impaired by
any such lengthy heating.
Since in pasteurizing we have a complete, effective, and wholly unobjec-
tionable means of stopping all fermentative changes in wines, once for all,
it should supersede the use of all antiseptics for the preservation of wines;
and it is difficult to see why, upon the completion of the after-fermentation,
its use should not form the rule instead of the exception; that is, why its
use should not pass beyond the case of wines actually unsound or of doubt-
ful soundness, and become the customary safeguard, especially for all
shipping wines that have acquired a satisfactory condition in which it is
desired to retain them — not, however, to the detriment of the proper process
of maturation, with which pasteurizing does not in .the least interfere. In
any case, the needful apparatus should now be made to form an indispen-
sable adjunct to every well ordered winery and storage cellar; and its pres-
ence should be an earnest that those having charge of such establishments
desire to avoid, to the utmost extent possible, the dubious expedients of
"doctoring up" their products or goods by the use of chemicals.
35
POINTS IN THE FERMENTATION OF RED WINES.
In connection with the preceding presentation of the principles govern-
ing fermentative processes, it will be proper to consider their practical
application in the making of red wines, which appears by common consent
to be the most important branch of wine production in this State. Unfor-
tunately it is also the most difficult, in consequence of the numerous acci-
dents and influences to which the must is liable during its long contact
with the solid parts of the grape, in tank fermentation. Good white wine
can be made with comparative ease, by rule-of-thumb methods; but the
first fermentation of red wines requires, throughout, constant and intelli-
gent care and judgment on the part of the maker, if the best, or in many
cases, even tolerable results are to be attained. It is therefore not surpris-
ing that the greater part of our faulty wines, and especially the most thor-
oughly faulty ones, are to be found among the "reds." Without going
into minute details, I will state and discuss briefly the main points of dif-
ficulty.
1. The exclusion of unsound grapes from the red-wine tank being of the
utmost importance in order to exclude the germs of improper fermentations
carried by them, the sorting-out of mouldy or otherwise faulty bunches
must be much more rigorous than in the case of white wine, into the must
of which a few improper germs may pass only to be promptly overslaughed
by the vinous fermentation. But the mouldy grape itself, within the pom-
ace floating in the red wine, constitutes much greater odds to contend
against; and sooner or later, its influence will make itself felt in the ten-
dency to the lacto-butyric fermentation, even if the taste of mould should
not be communicated. But any wine in the preparation of which unsound
grapes have entered, shoidd he pasteurized so soon as permissible with respect
to the after-fermentation. The latter should be carefully watched, and if
any tendency to "go wrong" be noted, pasteurizing, and a re-starting of fer-
mentation with sound grape yeast, should be promptly resorted to.
2. In white-wine fermentation, the yeast formed is more or less continu-
ously expelled from the bunghole, or forms a frothy mass on top, so as to
throw a large portion of the possibly active yeast out of its field of action.
In red-wine fermentation, the yeast, with the pomace, remains much
more largely in contact with the fermentable liquid; hence, the fermentation
progresses and passes more quickly, and is therefore more liable to raise the
temperature to an objectionable degree, resulting in the partial or complete
arrest of fermentation.
3. The exposure of a large surface to the air renders the contents of the
red-wine tank liable to be affected by outside changes of temperature, to a
degree not easily equaled in the case of white-wine fermentation in casks
or puncheons. The fermentation of red wines is, therefore, more often
unduly checked by cold, or excessive heat, unless the tanks are protected
by covers of some kind.
4. The greatest source of difficulty is the "cap," or "hat," formed on top
of the mash by the carrying-up of the pomace by the escaping gas. The
tendency is to raise a large part of the pomace, with the adherent liquid
and yeast, entirely above the surface of the liquid, exposing it to the air
under circumstances most favorable to the development of objectionable
fermentations (notably the acetic), and to the formation of mould. The
emerged portion of the pomace is also withdrawn from the desired extrac-
tion of its ingredients (color, acid, and tannin) by the wine, and thus, at
best, the effect is the same as though only one half or two thirds of the
36
grape skins had been used; the wine is, as it were, half white. The with-
drawal of a notable portion of the yeast also depresses the fermentation in
the general mass, while it intensifies it correspondingly in the portions
immediately beneath the cap, to such an extent that there the tei^iperature
may rise to that which kills the yeast, while in the lower portions of the
tank, as well as in the upper part of the cap, the thermometer may show
twenty, and even thirty degrees less.* From all points of view, therefore,
the formation of this "cap" is extremely undesirable.
Prevention of the Cap. — Three chief methods for the prevention of the
troubles arising from the formation of the cap are in use, and may be
defined as follows:
A. Often repeated (twice daily) submergence of the floating pomace by
means of variously shaped implements — rakes or prong-hoes, poles (club-
stamp, or ladder-shaped), etc. This often-repeated stirring-in (foidage of
the French) is justly considered as one of the best methods for promoting
fermentation by bringing all the yeast into action, and for fully extracting
the pomace; while at the same time it serves to equalize and (if necessary)
to lower the temperature of the tank charge, and, by the aeration of the
same, promotes the deposition of the undesirable ingredients of the wine,
greatly facilitates the subsequent clearing, and favors quicker maturity.
But unless faithfully and carefully done, it exposes the wine more or less
to the evils resulting from the formation of the cap, among which a slight
acetification is scarcely avoidable unless the tanks are covered in the inter-
vals between successive foidages. Such acetification should not, however,
exceed the allowable measure which remains unperceived by the taste, or,
rather, to which the taste of claret consumers is accustomed.
B. The second chief method is to keep the pomace permanently submerged
by what is known as Ferret's frames. When this is done according to the
original plan of the inventor, namely: to have three or four such frames,
twelve to eighteen inches apart, fastened down upon the mash in the tank
as the filling progresses, so that the pomace is divided into as many thin
layers as there are frames, through which the gas has to force its way to the
surface, the object of a full activity of all the yeast and of complete extrac-
tion of the skins is very perfectly attained; and when the tanks are not
too full, and are kept covered, so as to prevent acetification of the top layer
of wine, the result is excellent; always provided, that the temperature is
guarded against rising too high, whether in the whole, or especially in the
upper part of the charge. As foulage cannot be practiced, this must be con-
trolled by pumping-over the wine from the bottom to the top of the tank,
and this can readily be so done as to give the wine the benefit of a certain
amount of aeration at t?ie same time. Thus conducted, the red-wine mak-
ing by the aid of Ferret's frames is probably the one securing the best con-
trol of the process with the least liability to injury from slight neglect, and
yields very satisfactory results.
It is not so, however, with the modifications of Ferret's arrangement, by
which a single frame, holding the pomace down a few inches beneath the
liquid surface, in one solid mass, is made to do service for the set of frames,
and in which the pumping-over is omitted. The greatest evils of the open
" cap" are thus avoided, viz.: the acetification and moulding of the pomace.
* It has been very positively stated in regard to the vintage of 1885, that many cases
have occurred in which the fermentation, very vigorous at first, was suddenly checked
while the tank temperature did not exceed 85 degrees. But ))efore arguing on this basis,
it should be stated how that temperature was ascertained. It is in reality the maximum
occurring at and near the lower surface of the cap that determines the stoppage, since it is
there that the killing off of the yeast, as it rises, takes place consecutively.
37
But the great thickness of the pomace layer prevents, as in the former case,
the complete extraction of the color and tannin, since but little wine can
pass through it from the lower to the upper liquid layer; the gas escapes
mostly along the edges and through false channels; the yeast adhering to
the pomace is thrown out of action on the ivhole mass, but incites a very
hot fermentation within the submerged cap, which may easily rise so high
as to kill the yeast and cause the lacto-butyric fermentation to develop.
The relatively thin layer of wine above the frame is scarcely displaced from
the beginning to the end of the fermentation, and being continuously agi-
tated in presence of more or less air, becomes partly acetified, the more as
the heat of the submerged cap is communicated to it and causes evapora-
tion of the alcohol. Hence, this top layer of wine is not unfrequently
found, at the end of the fermentation, to be utterly unfit for intermixture
with the sound wine below the cap, has a stale, sour taste, and,is infected
with a variety of noxious germs. Yet, when the wine is drawn off below,
it follows it, and thus thoroughly infects the whole charge with its danger-
ous conditions.
It is thus extremely doubtful whether this "transmogrification" of Fer-
ret's method is much preferable to the open fermentation, with cap and all.
For in the latter case the wine is commonly drawn off from beneath the
emerged, soured portion of the pomace layer, and the amount of unsound
fluid mixed with the sound wine below will generally be very much less
than in the other case. But neither practice should find a place in Cal-
ifornia wineries.
When a single frame only is used, it should be submerged as deeply as
possible, and at least one regular daily pumping-over of the charge to the
top of the tank should be insisted on; and if the slats of the frame be not
too close, even a certain degree of foulage may be usefully done by opening
ways for the gas where it is not passing, so as to insure a quicker and more
uniform extraction of the pomace ingredients than is otherwise possible in
the thick layer.
C. A third method, used in some portions of France, combines some
features of both the above, and is especially useful in the case of small
tanks. In this, the fixed frame, held down by stays or wedges, is replaced
by a solid board cover, smaller than the month of the tank, that is laid directly
on the surface of the mash, and rises and falls ivith it in the successive stages
of fermentation, the ring-shaped space around its edges, about two inches
wide, giving an outlet for the gas. In this arrangement, the formation of
the cap in a single mass is not prevented, but its worst features, caused by
the access of air to the porous emerged mass, are done away with by the
solid cover. The latter, moreover, can be easily removed by turning up or
hoisting out of the way, so that the stirring-in or foidage may be prac-
ticed as mentioned under A, above. In fact, the use of the floating cover
is a most useful addition wherever the foidage system is used, and when
properly managed produces wine entirely free from acetic taint, as well as
from all others not due to unsound grapes or other extraneous causes; while
at the same time possessing all the advantages belonging to the foidage
system.
Practically, the use of these floating covers is limited by the fact that
in the case of large-sized, and especially very wide tanks, the cover becomes
difficult to handle, and must be divided into two or even three sections.
Again, it is necessary, in order to guard against all possible danger of
acetification toward the end of the fermentation, to wash off from the upper
surface the froth that may have gathered near the edges of the cover.
When this is done, the red wines so made will be found as free from acetic
taint as white wines fermented under the "bubble-pipe" valve; and it is
largely for this reason that this method of fermentation has been adopted,
for all red wines, in the University laboratory. Of course, in operating
upon small quantities, the use of the floating cover offers not the least
inconvenience.
The protecting cover of carbonic gas. — So many wine-makers place too
implicit reliance upon the protection against the air afforded by the car-
bonic gas evolved during fermentation, that some special remarks on this
subject seem to be in order.
It is true that, during the first stages of the violent fermentation, the
layer of heavy gas, filling the empty part of the tanks, and overflo^\ang its
sides, affords a very effectual protection against injurious access of air,
especially jf a considerable space is left above the fermenting mass. But
so soon as the fermentation slackens, and the evolution becomes slower,
the natural process of intermixture of gases by "diffusion" begins; and
such intermixture is especially favored by the currents created in conse-
quence of the difference of temperature between the tank contents and the
outer air. The canvas covers used by our more careful wine-makers,
toward the end of the fermentation, tend of course to diminish greatly the
chances of undue access of air to the liquid surface. But they are not
sufficient when, as is not uncommonly done, the wine is left undrawn for
some time after fermentation has ceased. Except in special cases, the
latter is a very undesirable thing to do, as it tends to render the wines
harsh, and of herby taste. But when, for any reason, it has to be done,
the sealing of the tanks by means of a tight plank cover, cemented with
plaster, should be considered of absolute necessity.
When foulage is used the gas cover is pretty effectual removed each time,
or at least so commingled with air as to render it of little use. The same
occurs when, in the use of submerged frames, the wine is pumped-over.
Generally speaking, the protecting cover of gas is not to be relied upon
after the brunt of the fermentation is over, unless the tank has a consider-
able empty space above the mash surface, and is kept effectually covered.
The habitual neglect of the needful precautions against acetification dur-
ing the first fermentation, is by far the commonest fault committed by our
wine-makers, few of whom realize the extent to which "pricked" wines pre-
vail in California. As this is the one fault that can alivays be avoided with
proper care in the preparation of wine, its existence at once impresses the
consumer with the idea of carelessness on the part of vintners; for there is
and can be no mystery in the premises, whatever may be said of other
faults of which the causes are not only less obvious, but also less easily
avoided.
It should not be forgotten that the use of packages not well protected
against acetification of the wine that has soaked into the wood of the casks,
by sulphuring as soon as emptied and rinsed, may also be very effectual in
imparting a taint that will develop whenever an opportunity is afforded. But
so far as my observation goes, the latter cause is far less common, and much
less liable to produce such lasting effects, than the neglect of the proper pre-
cautions in the first fermentation. I have seen cases in which that process
had really been successfully carried through, on the submerged-frame plan,
so that an excellent sample of wine could be drawn from the spigot, while
. the surface of the liquid above the frame was completely covered with a
white scum of the vinegar yeast, which had formed during the delay in
drawing off, incurred on the supposition that the gas would effectually pro-
tect the wine for weeks. Such delusions cannot be too soon dispelled; it
39
should be accepted as a maxim, that whatever delay in drawing off occurs
after the fermentation and extraction of the skins are completed, is of
evil, and that, if the delay is to extend beyond a few days, serious injury
to the wine can only be prevented by securely sealing up of the tanks.
When, instead of the submerged frame, a floating cover has been used, the
access of air is so limited that even after the wine has become perfectly
quiet and gas has ceased to come off, the drawing off may be reasonably
delayed, without material injury.
Some additional points in this connection are given in the subjoined
extract:
ABSTRACT FROM A REPORT ON "STUDIES ON WINE FERMENTATION," MADE
TO THE STATE VITICULTURAL COMMISSION IN MAY, 1885.
GENERAL CONCLUSIONS.
As a summing up of the chief causes of imperfections in our wine, as connected with
the present practice of wine n^aking, the following statement might be made:
1. — Want of Care in Respect to the Exclusion of Unsoxmd Grapes from the Crushing Process.
This cause is especially potent with respect to red wines, in the manufacture of which
the wine remains in contact with the pomace for so great a length of time, that the germs
of the several different fermentations will have time to contaminate the ijroduct to a very
considerable extent before the drawing off, and thus form a standing menace against the
keeping and improvement of the wine, unless the latter is "sterilized" by the pasteur
process of heating.
This cause is of course controllable by reasonable care in the picking out of imperfect
bunches before crushing, whether in the field, as is commonly done in Europe, or on a
table in which each box of grapes is emptied before passing on the apron or stemmer.
The rejected bunches will, according to the value of the grape variety, be either again
picked over, or consigned to the still as a whole. But if a batch of wine has been made
from unsound grapes, it should be kept in mind that it is liable to disease, and that to use
it in blending is to leaven the whole mass of the blend with dangerous germs. This
undoubtedly constitutes one of the greatest dangers threatening the reputation of our
wines abroad.
2.— Excessive Rise of Temperature During the Violent Fermentation,
Whereby the true wine yeast is either seriously checked in its development or at times
entirely killed, so that the wine cannot be fermented dry without the addition of fresh
yeast, and, sometimes, of fresh material for its formation. There can be no doubt that
this has been one of the most prominent causes of unsound and half fermented wines in
early times, when the large tanks were in general use. It is undoubtedly still a frequent
cause of imperfect fermentations in the hotter portions of the State, or in particularly hot
vintage seasons. It is too commonly supposed that when a temperature of a fermenting
tank has risen high, with stormy fermentation, which then subsides quickly, that the fer-
mentation is happily over in a short time; whereas it may simply have been stopped by
the killing or at least weakening of the yeast by the excessive rise of temperature. Again,
such rise, while checking the vinous fermentation, will in the presence of other germs,
derived from unsound grapes, favor the development of the lacto-butyric fermentation,
which may not perhaps proceed very far for the time being in consequence of the cooling
down of the tank, but will ultimately, on the occurrence of favorable conditions, take its
course and definitively sj)oil the product for all but the still.
The same conditions occur to a greater or less extent whenever the formation of a " hat"
is permitted, in which oftentimes the hand will find an almost uncomfortable tempera-
ture. A certain proportion of the wine is thus subjected to undesirable influences in many
respects, as is more fully stated below.
3. — Undue Access of Air, Allowing of Partial Acetification.
This is by far the commonest fault of California wines as found in the market, and
especially so in the red wines. Even a casual inspection of the manner in which the fer-
mentation of these is mostly conducted explains the cause. Almost throughout we find
that the objectionable "hat" is allowed to form in the tanks, which but too often are left
without any cover whatsoever. If this is considered an objectionable practice in coun-
tries where the temperature of the vintage time is such that from 10 to 17 days elapse
before the cessation of active fermentation, how much more fatal must it become to the
wine's soundness where the temperature of the air is actually that which is purposely
maintained in vinegar factories m order to promote the most rapid conversion of the
alcohol into acetic acid. It is true that in the first stages of fermentation the rapid evolu-
tion of carbonic acid gas affords a protecting cover; but so soon as the violence of action
40
subsides, the unhindered access of the outer air with its varying temperature soon destroys
the efficacy of that protection, and I have seen cases in which the heat in the "hat" was
evidently being maintained quite as much by the rapid oxidation of the alcoholic vapor,
rising from below into acetic acid, as from the direct effect of the fermentation. When
afterwards the vat remains untouched until the pomace sinks of its own accord, or when
even the otherwise desirable practice of agitating a mash is performed under such cir-
cumstances, the conditions for the formation of vinegar are the most favorable, and it is
no wonder that the wine becomes incurably tainted with the acetic ferment.
I have seen in many otherwise very well arranged wineries, tanks long past fermenta-
tion, in which the "hat" had sunk to the bottom and was replaced by a whitish scum
that had formed on the surface while a decidedly acetous odor filled the empty part
beneath the loose cover. It is vain to expect that such methods of work should result in
a sound wine, no matter how perfect that appliance may be; and it cannot be forgotten
by those who tasted the wines exhibited at the late Viticultural Convention, that among
those made from fine grape varieties there were many whose acetous taint completely
spoiled and overshadowed their otherwise excellent qualities.
There can be no doubt that both with a view to the safety of the wine and the full
extraction of the color and tannin from the grape skins, either the formation of the "hat"
ought to be wholly avoided in our climate, by the introduction of one or several false bot-
toms to keep the pomace submerged; or else that the access of air be prevented by the
simpler expedient of "floating covers," leaving only a narrow space around their edge for
the escape of the gas. The latter expedient is, of course, a compromise; as, while it does
not prevent the formation of the "hat" it renders it innocuous so far as acetification is
concerned by preventing the access of air, and allows of the stirring needed for the full or
prompt extraction of the color and tannin, when the cover (formed of halves) is raised
out of the way.
The use of these "floating" covers allows us to dispense with the full size covers for the
tanks that are needed even when the latticed false bottoms are used, if there is to he any
delay in the drawing off; for the narrow annular space around the cover resting on the
"hat" allows so little access of air that a reasonable delay in drawing off is of little conse-
quence.
It is presumable that those who take so little heed of the danger of acetification as to
allow it during fermentation, will not exercise all due care when it comes to the after
treatment and ullage. But it is worthy of mention in this connection, that, owing to
the presence of a large contingent of the acetic ferment in such wines, they are verj'
much more liable to farther damage, and most commonly get their full share of it.
As an illustration of the above three points in practice, I present the record made of a
visit to a winery in which, at the time at least, all the rules for the production of sound
wines w-ere flagrantly sinned against — happily and altogether an exceptional case, yet
resulting in an unjust prejudice against the capabilities of the whole neighborhood "for
the production of wine.
Around the lower end of the crusher apron stood scores of boxes filled with grapes in
all stages of mouldiness and rottenness, unfit for any use whatsoever, whether connected
with wine-making or distilling. Among them could be found samples of all kinds of
fermentation— vinous, generally far gone into the acetic; viscous, the grapes drawing out
into long slimy threads when pulled apart; lacto-butyric, soft and smelling of cheese; no
end of moulds of several kinds, black, green, and white. In the absence of the proprietor,
I did not care to press the inquiry as to what was going to be done with the material
before me, but received an intimation that it was intended for the still. It certainly
would have made any animal fed upon it sick; and any brandy made from it would have
contained a predominant flavor of the essence of mould, among a multitude of other
uncanny ingredients. But supposing it to have been considered as useless refuse, it is
impossible to imagine that any practicable amount of hand picking by ordinary work-
men could have even approximately segregated the clean grapes from those that were
more or less attacked by the several fermentations. In using grapes so contaminated for
wine-making at all, the maker incurs so great a risk of producing a wine liable to all
kinds of diseases after it leaves his hands, as no business man selling goods of his manu-
facture can safely or fairly carry.
On entering the winery building, a strong, acetous odor at once assailed the nostrils;
the provision for ventilation was very scanty, and thus a distinct musty flavor was super-
added. Large tanks of the olden time, holding from 6,000 to 8,000 gallon's, formed the main
portion of the fermenting caskage, and the acetous odor proceeded from those in which
red wine was being nuide, as well as from others whose contents were intended for distilla-
tion. The pomace, which was just being removed from one of the tanks, after drawing off
the piquet, had not only a strong vinegary taint, but also that peculiar valeriano butyric
odor so intensely suggestive of milk-sourness, and it contained a great many mouldy
grape skins.
In view of these observed facts, it cannot but be strongly suspected that the conclusions
as to the nature of well-made wines of the locality, based upon the outcome of such prac-
tice, would be very unsafe, for while some of the wines might renuiin perfectly sound, even
under the apparent neglect of the usual precautions, yet many would uncloubtedly have
suffered, and it would be very difficult to discriminate between them, or come to an intel-
ligent judgment upon the general subject. I could not help making this mental reserva-
tion during a subsequent tasting, of some of the older wines of the establishment, in
several of which the same faults that will inevitably be found in the past season's wines,
were clearly aj^parent.
41
While the above three points must be considered the most important factors in the pro-
duction of wines absolutely unsound, it will be proper to consider, in this connection,
some of the points in the general policy of wine-making in California, that should be
clearly kept in view.
If what I have stated at the beginning of this report be admitted, viz.: that the wines
of California must in the main seeTc their market outside of the State, and must therefore
be adapted to shipment to long distances; then it follows that, if we adopt the wine-
making processes of southern France, 8pain, Portugal, and Italy, we must adopt the all
but universal practice of fortifying export wines. If, on the contrary, we wish, in our
climate, to produce also wines similar to those of Bordeaux and northward to the
Moselle, we must of necessity so vary our practice that with grapes of a more or less
southern character we may nevertheless be able to impart the characters of the cooler
climates to our products. To this end we must distinctly deviate, in some respects, from
the exact practice of either the southern or northern region of Europe.
Our wine-makers should be made to distinctly understand these differences, arising
from the management of fermentation nearly as much as from the character of the grapes
used. While some of these latter, as, e. g., the Malvoisie, cannot safely form an ingredi-
ent of any dry wine, and others, like the Burger, and apparently the Mondeuse, will stand
unharmed any reasonable amount of stress ; yet the great majority will depend upon their
mode of fermentation for their claim to greater or less stability under favorable influ-
ences; and hence the destination of the product should be definitely considered when
handling it. Of the numerous grape varieties now being naturalized in California, from
all parts of the earth's vine-growing belt, each one yields its commercially known product
not merely by virtue of its intrinsic qualities, but largely as the result of certain methods
of treatment to which it is habitually subjected, and among which the mode of fermenta-
tion is doubtless the most important. Southern countries have, by a natural process of
selection, adopted those varieties which vield desirable results with the rapid fermenta-
tion, which is the natural outcome of the high temperature prevailing at the vintage
season; while northern countries, as naturally, have chosen prevalently those grape varie-
ties that yield the best results under slow fermentation, upon the maintenance of which
the peculiarities of their products largely depend. If then we desire to reproduce the
wines of other countries exactly, we must adopt not only their grape varieties, but also
their methods of treatment in fermentation especially. A different treatment may pro-
duce wines intrinsically good, but after all resembling only remotely the type it was
intended to duplicate. It will not, then, do to prescribe uniform conditions and methods
of fermentation for all alike. When a Riesling must is rushed through a four or five
days' fermentation, under the influence of a hot September in the Napa Valley, it is no
wonder that its relationship to the product of Johannisberg is scarcely suspected; while,
had the fermentation been carried out in one of the cool, rock cellars, its true nature
would as surely have been revealed.
It is clear, then, that our wine-makers must learn to keep clearly in mind, not only the
grape variety they have in hand, but also the use they expect to make of it, from the
very outset. And wine merchants in disposing of their purchases in blends or otherwise,
should also distinctly understand how such wines have been made and to what extent
they can be trusted for shipment to a distance. There can be no doubt that the failure
to pay attention to such points as these is responsible for a great deal of the reproach that
has been brought upon California wines by their " going wrong " in the hands of purchas-
ers abroad, and there can be none that, however difficult it may seem to make the practice
conform to these considerations, established by all previous experience, yet it is eminently
incumbent upon us to do all in our power to make these matters understood as soon as pos-
sible. Even in the old world the proper discrimination in these respects is far from being
fully established among the wine-makers at large, and a great deal of faulty wine is brought
into commerce from districts noted for the excellence of a portion of their product. This
is largely because of the extreme difficulty of overcoming the predilection for the practices
of the forefathers. For that very reason, it is the more important that we, in the begin-
nings of the formation of our practice, should not blindly follow the practices of any one
particular country,- but consider, with our eyes open, the teachings of the best experience
of all countries, especially as elucidated by the systematic observations of the several
European experiment stations. That with our great diversity of climates and the great
variety of grapes already introduced, we stand in the most urgent need of similar sys-
tematic work in order to avoid widespread costly mistakes, hardly needs discussion.
It has been said, by way of comfort to beginners, that wine-making is, after all, an easj''
thing, which can be done by any one with a few casks and a little common sense. It is quite
true that something that will pass for wine, for awhile at least, can be so made, and also
that, where a certain practice with certain materials has long been established, any one
can make good wine by following exactly the established rule-of-thumb. But no such
state of things exists in California, and it is not safe to persuade the public that it will
take no more than the above outfit to make wines that will find profitaole sale, from the
indefinite materials found in our vineyards. More than this, it is not well to allow the
inexperienced wine-maker to nuike, on "common-sense" principles, wine that will bring
him fifteen cents per gallon, when, if projjerly instructed, he might have obtained double
that price.
Very respectfully,
E. W. HILGARD.
Berkeley, May 9, 1885.
42
PAET II,
RECORD OF WORK IN THE VITICULTURAL LABORATORY
FOR THE SEASON 1883-4.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The work for this season began late and followed upon an interval of
nearly a year's enforced inactivity, caused by the exhaustion of the appro-
priation. Hence the arrangements were not well made beforehand, and
the single assistant who, without previous experience in this line of work,
came in at the very beginning of the vintage, could not accomplish as
large a volume of work during that year as was accomplished during the
succeeding season, nor could that work be done as systematically and ad-
visedly; hence the deficiency of a number of data, such as tastings, tannin
determinations, etc., which thereafter have been regularly made in each
and every case.
The grapes worked during this vintage were partly contributed volun-
tarily by the producers, partly (in the case of Mr. Krug) purchased by the
University, in order to obtain typical samples from important localities
of the more important grape varieties and wines. It was intended to pursue
this plan in the succeeding season also, on an enlarged scale ; but the over-
whelming volume of voluntary contributions rendered it necessary to sus-
pend the operation of this general plan, and without a material enlargement
of the working facilities, it will only incidentally be possible to pursue it
hereafter.
In the following record, there is given, first, a general list, and then a
descriptive list of the grapes worked and wines made at the laboratory,
with table of analyses of the same; next, a descriptive list of the wines
sent in, ready made, for examination, with analyses thereof; and finally,
such discussions of the results as were either made at the time, in bulletins
currently published, or have since been suggested by the enlargement of
the scope of the work. The latter policy is especially carried out in refer-
ence to the Zinfandel grape, the record of analyses of whose wines is
probably one of the largest ever made of one single grape variety; a result
of the very exceptional relation of that grape to the viticultural industry of
California.
The issue of bulletins of the experiment station work, which had before
been reported only in annual reports or correspondence, was begun in Feb-
ruary, 1884; and ten bulletins relating to viticultural subjects were issued
during that year. The object of these bulletins is best expressed in the
preliminary paragraph which is prefixed to most of them:
In order to render the results of investigations and experiments conducted by the Agri-
cultural Department of the University of California more quickly and more generally
available than has heretofore been done through the annual or biennial reports, it is pro-
posed to embody hereafter, in the form of " bulletins," to be issued as often as may seem
desirable, reports of results, as well as such other discussions, information, or answers to
questions as may be of general interest. It is intended to make these bulletins, as a rule,
short enough for insertion in the daily or weekly papers of the State, and proof slips of the
same will be regularly mailed to papers applying therefor. The substance of these bul-
43
letins will ultimately be embodied in a more complete and connected form, in the annual
reports of the College of Agriculture.
List of Grapes Received at the Viticultukal Laboratory in 1883.
Variety.
Place of Production.
Mataro
Mataro
Grenache
Grenache -..
Carignane
Carignane -
Zinfandel ..-
Zinf andel -
Chauch4 Gris
Chauch6 Gris
Franken Riesling
Chauch^ Noir
Seedless Sultana _
M. Denicke - -
J.P.Smith -.-
M. Denicke
J.P.Smith
M. Denicke
J. P. Smith
Natoma Company
F. T. Eisen
Chas. Krug
W.G. Klee
Chas. Krug
W.G. Klee
R. B. Blowers
Fresno^
Livermore.
Fresno.
Livermore.
Fresno.
Livermore.
Natoma.
Fresno.
St. Helena.
. Happy Valley, Santa Cruz Co.
St. Helena.
- Happy Valley, Santa Cruz Co.
Woodland.
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF WINES MADE AT THE VITICULTURAL LABORA-
TORY, 1883.
Matard, or Mourvedre. — As the Mataro is coming largely into favor for
new plantations, it is desirable that its origin and uses in Europe should
be more generally understood.
The Mataro is the predominant red wine grape of Provence, the extreme
south of France. It belongs to the region of the olive, and its somewhat
tardy maturity renders it unadapted to colder regions. In Provence it
produces, not large quantities, but dark tinted and heavy bodied, healthful
wines. Their richness in tannin renders them harsh when young, but
imparts durability, and they acquire with age, in a high degree, the best
qualities of a table wine.
The Mataro is of strong and vigorous growth, very hardy, and of a
remarkably erect habit (which in this State has given rise to the local but
eminently improper name of "upright Burgundy"). It is best adapted to
strong, calcareous soils, not too poor in vegetable matter, and likes to bury
its roots in a deep, pervious subsoil ; . but it succeeds well on a great variety
of soils.
As will be seen from the analyses given below, the Mataro agrees v^y
nearly with the Zinfandels from the same localities in its contents of tan-
nin, being generally below the normal amount expected in clarets. Its
body appears to be only medium (average of seven, 2.38), and its alcohol
percentage remains rather below that of the Pinots and Zinfandels of the
same localities and vintages. It is, therefore, eminently adapted, in Cali-
fornia as in Provence, to the production of good table wines, corresponding
in their use to the Medoc clarets, though with less tannin and acid, and
hence not so well adapted to dilution. As the foundation for blend wines
of a more pronounced character, it will also find extensive use.
No. 83. Mataro.
From the vineyard of M. Denicke, Fresno. Grapes arrived in good condition, and 76.12
pounds were crushed September 7, 1883. The juice showing 21.69 per cent of sugar. The
fermentation was not at all violent, commencing at a temperature of 65 degrees Fahren-
heit and reaching its maximum at 77 degrees, when it fell gradually to the temperature of
the room. The murk was drawn off pomace September fifteenth, having a color of red-
dish garnet. The wine was drawn off the lees November, 1883, and again racked March>
1884. An analysis was made February 15, 1884. Soon after the March racking the demi-
iohn containing the wine burst and contents were lost before a satisfactory tasting could
be made.
44
ANALYSE.?.
1885.
188^
1883.
1882.
if
*
it)
0 1
1 S-
5'3 c
o - -•
ill
o IS r'
j «g
S £ 2
*
c ^
1 _c*
a
ri
3fust.
21.69
.53
11.50
9.20
2.69
.08
.56
.49
20.94
.69
10.60
8.48
2.13
.06
.47
.35
Acid
Wine.
11.18
8.98
2.56
.11
.59
.39
12.36
9.92
2.90
.14
.60
.27
9.37
7.50
2.44
.07
.32
.35
9.00
7.23
2.26
.08
.53
.25
12.30
9.85
2.18
.10
.38
.27
13.10
10.63
2.69
.09
.35
.32
12.36
Aicohoi:{ Weight .::::::::::::::
9.92
Body . -
2.24
.10
Acid
.49
Ash
.31
* From grapes sent to the laboratory by the producers.
No. 87. Carignane.
From vineyard of M. Denicke, Fresno. The condition of the grapes was excellent, on
their arrival at the laboratory, September tenth. They were worked September eleventh.
The juice contained 22.67 of sugar by copper test; 68.42 pounds were crushed. Fermenta-
tion commenced September twelfth ; temperature remaining quite constant; the highest
being 74° F., with the room at 70°. Pressed from pomace on September nineteenth. The
wine was racked from lees October thirtieth, and again racked in March, 1884; analyzed
February 15, 1884.
Record of Tast/mg— April 20, 1SS5.—A wine of good aroma, but color much faded.
Jan-nary 26, 1886.— Color very light red. A very light-bodied wine of fair astringency and
well developed bouquet and flavor.
ANALYSES.
1884.
1883.
*Natoma Co.,
Natoma.
H. A. Pellet,
St. Helena.
*J. P. Smith,
Livermore.
J. B.J. Portal,
Burgundy
Vineyard.
*M. Den-
icke.Fresno.
M. Denicke,
Fresno.
Mu t.
Sugar by spindle
Acid
19.56
.59
9.90
7.92
2.18
.06
.53
.29
19.87
.68
10.60
8.48
2.05
.06
.67
.36
22.67
.68
11.00
8.84
1.93
.07
.58
.40
Wine.
Ai„^T,^i. y Volume..
Alcohol. I ^gjgl^^
Body
12.00
9.63
2.18
.16
.53
•23
11.54
9.27
2.06
.06
.63
.23
12.36
9.92
3.04
Tannin
.10
Acid ..-■
.47
Ash .
.37
*From grapes sent to the laboratory by the producers.
No. 85. Grenache.
From vineyard of M. Denicke, Fresno. The grapes arrived in good condition, though
not evenly ripened, September thirteenth, and were worked the following day. Fermen-
tation of the crushed grapes (66.22 pounds) commenced on evening of fourteenth, at a tem-
perature of 69° F. ; on the sixteenth the temperature rose to 77°, and the fermentation was
quite violent, remaining so until the eighteenth, when the temperature began to fall, and
gradually reached that of the room. The unfermented juice showed 22.15 per cent sugar.
Pressed from pomace September twenty-first. The young wine was racked from the lees
October thirteenth; again racked, March, 1884. Was analyzed February 15, 1884.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1885. — A neutral wine, of nobouquet and very faint color.
January 26, i<?56.— Condition of sample, bright; color, nearly gone; body, medium; bou-
quet and flavor, well developed ; acid, excessive, owing to slight acetification.
45
ANALYSES.
L. D. Combe.
Los Gatos.
*NatomaCo.,
Natoma.
*Wm. Pfeffer,
GubserviUe.
*J. P. Smith,
Livermore.
J. B. J. Portal,
Burgundy
Vineyard.
*M. Denicke,
Fresno.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - . -
Acid -.
Wine.
Body.
Tannin
Acid
Ash
12.20
9.85
2.69
.13
.40
.24
21.82
.62
10.50
8.48
1.66
.11
.48
.28
18.12
.41
9.27
7.43
1.93
.07
.53
.28
21.69
.75
11.50
9.20
2.56
.09
.51
.32
12.17
9.78
2.17
.09
.54
.22
22.15
.44
11.90
9.70
2.69
.11
.53
.43
*From grapes sent to laboratory by the producers.
No. 88. Carignane.
From vineyard of J. P. Smith, Livermore. Grapes arrived at laboratory in good con^
dition, September twenty-sixth, and were crushed the same day, juice showing 19.87 per
cent sugar; 73.37 pounds were crushed, and fermentation began September twenty-sev-
enth; temperature, 66°; action was quiet until about noon on the twentj^-eighth, when it
commenced to be violent, and continued so for two days, temperature rising to 78.9 F.,
after which no violence was noticeable, and the temperature fell slowly to that of the
room, about 70. The murk, amounting to 6.07 gallons, was drawn off the pomace October
third. The young wine was racked from lees in November, and again racked March, 1884.
This sample was analyzed February 15, 1884. Subsequently, owing to an accident to the
demijohn, it was lost, without a critical tasting having been made.
No. 86. Grenache.
From vineyard of J. P. Smith, Livermore. The grapes, amounting to 97 pounds, were
crushed September twenty-seventh, having arrived in good condition the same day.
Sugar percentage of juice, 21.69. Fermentation commenced on the evening of September
twenty-seventh at a temperature of 65° F. Violent action was noticed by noon of the
next day, the temperature reaching its maximum of 76.8° on the twenty-ninth, after which
fermentation was quiet. The must, amounting to 7.84 gallons, was pressed from pomace
on October fourth, the color being dark red. The young wine was racked from the lees in
November, and again racked in March, 1884; analysis of wine was made on February 16,
1884.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1885. — Sample in 8 oz. vial: a light-colored wine of good bou-
quet, decided and adequate acid. Sample in five-gallon demijohn is bright, with light
bodj^ ])ale color, and good acid. Bouquet less developed than in sample from vial ; fairly
drinkable wine.
January 26, 1S86. — A bright, red-colored wine, of low astringency, medium acid, rather
light body, and claret-like flavor. Bouquet: fairlj^ developed, but not as high as in the
Fresno sample.
No. 84. Mataro.
From vineyard of J. P. Smith, Livermore. Grapes arrived in good condition on Sep-
tember twenty-seventh, and 63.25 pounds were crushed the same day, the juice containing
20.94 sugar.
The fermentation, which commenced September twenty-eighth at a temperature of 66.2,
remained quiet during the entire time. The maximum temperature reached was 76°,
after which it gradually fell to 68°, the temperature of the room. The must was pressed
from the pomace October fourth, and yielded 5.28 gallons ; color very deep, much more
so than either of the other two varieties from the same locality. The young wine was
drawn from the lees in November, and again racked in March, 1884. Analysis of wine
made February 19, 1884.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1SS5. — Bouquet, characteristic and fairly developed ; color,
light; acid and astringency, fair.
January 26, 1S86. — A sound, bright wine, of deep purple color, light body, faint, claret-
like bouquet, moderate acid, low astringency, and good vinous flavor.
The following discussion of the results deducible from the working into
wine, and analysis of the six preceding numbers, was published in Feb-
ruary, 1884, constituting Bulletin No. 6:
46
COMPARATIVE EXAMINATION OF CLARET GRAPES FROM FRESNO AND LIVERMORE VALLEY.
The influence of locality in determining the peculiarities, quality, and quantity of grapes
and wine, is among the most important questions before the grape grower; since they
will, in a great degree determine, also, the ultimate profits of the business.
During the first two years of its work, the viticultural division of the experiment station
has only been able to accumulate scattered data bearing upon these points. A wider
interest" taken in the work by intelligent growers during the past season, renders it possi-
ble to present, among other points, an interesting comparison of three important varieties
of claret grapes from two widely different districts, but of the same year and of grapes
gathered from vines of nearly the same age, viz.: three and four years from the cutting.
The varieties presented are the Grenache, Mataro, and Carignane ; the lots were furnished,
respectively, by Mr. R. Denicke, of Fresno, and Mr. Julius P. Smith, of Livermore Valley.
The first was received between September sixth and September thirteenth; the second,
September twenty-seventh ; both were well ripened, bvit not overripe, and all were in excel-
lent condition; only the. color of the Fresno grapes was light, in consequence of the
damage to the leaves by the vine hopper. All were stemmed, crushed, fermented, and
pressed alike as nearly as possible, and by the same persons, so as to render the data as
rigorously comparable as possible. The following table exhibits the results as regards the
yield of the grapes in stems, pomace, and murk:
Stems,
per cent.
Fresh, Dried,
per cent, per cent.
Per cent.
Gallons,
per ton.
( F
Grenache "*"lL
Mataro \ r'
{F
4.23
5.54
3.76
5.39
2.63
4.65
11.4
13.8
17.6
11.5
10.3
11.1
3.
4.
5.1
5.0
84.4
80.7
6.5
5.0
78.6
83.1
4.7
5.7
87.1
84.3
177.6
161.4
167.3
167.1
179.6
165.6
The first column shows a notable difference as to the weight of stems contained in a
given weight of fruit from each locality. The percentage of stems is smaller in the Fresno
grapes in all cases — in the Carignane, to the extent of nearly 50 per cent. Inspection
shows the Fresno stems to be more slender and less succulent "than those from Livermore
Valley, owing, doubtless, to the drier climate of Fresno.
The two next columns show that, throughout, a larger percentage of juice was extracted
from the Fresno grapes than from the others, the difference being least in the case of the
Mataro, yet perceptible even there. The dried pomace amounts throughout to somewhat
less than half of the weight of the fresh, but varies in opposite directions in the Mataro
and Carignane, while equal in the Grenache. This may be partly due, of course, to a dif-
ference in ripeness. The number of gallons of murk per ton furnished by the several lots,
as given in the fifth column, are the result of direct measurement of the liquid. Here,
also, Fresno yields are somewhat higher than those from Livermore grapes ; the difference
being very slight, however, in the case of the Mataro.
In the following table are given some of the chief points determined in the examination
of the must, excepting the alcohol and tannin, which were estimated in the young wine :
tea
So
<5 ^.
Alcohol in Wine.
Grenache -Jj
Mataro -J j
Carignane ..< j
22.2
21.7
21.7
21.0
19.9
21.38
21.75
20.24
22.67
20.24
9.70
9.20
9.20
8.48
8.84
8.48
11.90
11.50
11.50
10.60
11.00
10.60
.109
.087
.076
.055
.073
.063
.436
.750
.525
.691
.675
.677
* Determination lost.
47
The first column shows that in the Grenache and Mataro the spindle indicated a heavier
must for Fresno, and the same is doubtless true of the Carignane, as appears bj' reference
to the next column, No. 2. This gives the total sugar as determined by the "copper test,"
which usually yields results slightly too high ; but it will be noted that here the differences
between the two localities appear to be increased, the Jjivermore must containing, evi-
dently, a larger proportion of "non-sugar" than that from Fresno. This relation is cor-
roborated by the next column. No. 3, which shows the alcohol percentages as determined
in the young wines at this date. These percentages range very closely with those of Bor-
deaux clarets, the Grenache showing the highest, and the Carignane the lowest average,
viz.: 9.45 and 8.6(3 per cent respectively; the Mataro about midway between.
A striking regularity appears in the next column. No. 4, showing the tannin percent-
ages. Here, al.so, the dift'erences all fall one way, showing more tannin for Fresno than
for Livermore — a somewhat unexpected result, but which tends to strengthen the pre-
sumption that Fresno will find a specialty in the production of ports of good keeping
qualities. On the whole, however, these tannin percentages are consideralDly belotv the
average on record for the Bordeaux clarets, most of which range near .20 per cent, or 2 pro
mille.
It may be added that the determination of the tannin of Zinfandel wines, now in prog-
ress, corroborates in general the increase of tannin to southward, but shows a much
wider range for the musts of that variety.
In the percentage of acid, as shown in column No. 5, Fresno falls uniformly behind
Livermore; most strikingly so in the case of Mataro and Grenache, but little in that of
the Carignane. This was to be expected in view of the climatic differences, and it conveys
a strong hint in regard to the kind of wines that Fresno should not attempt to make,
unless from grape varieties which, like the Carignane, maintain a respectable acid per-
centage even there. It must not, however, be forgotten that the grapes from both locali-
ties were first crops from young vines, so that while their relative qualities will probably
remain the same, the absolute percentages of body and alcohol, and probably of tannin,
will ultimately be found higher.
It is to be regretted that no European analyses of these grape varieties are available for
comparison, which is therefore possible only so far as the commercial wines known to be
largely made from them, may be considered representative, and may hereafter be com-
pared with the wines made from these musts. It is as yet too early in the season to test
these wines; but it is highly desirable that the comparison, when made, should be as
extensive as possible; and therefore persons who have during the past season, or pre-
viously, made wines exclusively from one of these, or other important wine grapes, would
confer a favor and a benefit upon the progress of rational wine-making and blending in
California, by transmitting to us samples of not less than two bottles each of such wines,
for analysis. It is certainly by the light of such definite determinations of the influence
exerted upon the composition of wines and musts by the several climates and localities,
that +he solution of the problem of proper coadaptation of grape varieties, climates, soils,
and blends can be most rapidly approached.
Berkeley, Cal., February 19, 1884.
No. 89. Zinfandel (white). Second crop.
From vineyard of Natoma Water and Mining Company, Natoma. Grapes arrived October
second, and were worked the same day. The condition of grapes was excellent. Of the
total amount of 173.25 pounds, 73.81 pounds were crushed, yielding 5.28 gallons must, and
made into "white" wine, the juice showing 19.41 per cent sugar. During the first few
days after the starting of the fermentation, the action was quite violent, after which it
gradually calmed down.
The maximum temperature reached was 78° F. ; room, 70°. The wine was drawn from
the lees October twenty -third, and again racked in March, 1884. Analyzed February 20, 1884.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1S85. — The wine has Zinfandel bouquet strongly characterized,
but is rather thin.
January 26, 1SS6. — A light-bodied wine of unsatisfactory bouquet, and quite light body.
Acid ; decided, not unpleasant. Has not developed as at first promised.
Miist.
Sugar by spindle --. 19.41
Acid 67
Wine.
Alcohol • i '^o^""^® 11-25
Alcohol . -j ^gjgj^j. ggg
Body 1.88
Acid .55
Ash .21
No. 90. Zinfandel. Second crop.
From vineyard of Natoma Water and Mining Company, Natoma. 99.44 pounds were
crushed and fermented with the skins. Fermentation, which started October second, at
48
temperature of 64° F., was quiet throughout. The maximum temperature reached was
77°, room being at 70°. Murk, amounting to 8.39 gallons, was pressed from pomace
October ninth.
The young wine was racked from lees in November, and again racked in March, 1884.
The wine was analyzed on February 21, 1884. In the latter part of March the demijohn
containing this wine, burst, and only a bottle sample was saved.
Record of Tasting— January 26, 1SS6. — A light red-colored wine of light body, strong Zin-
fandel bouquet, and low astringency.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - 19.41
Acid 67
Wine.
Ai^^v.^!.) Volume---- -- -- - 10.60
Alcohol: I ^gigj^^ _ _ 848
Body - - - 2.05
Tannin -.- 04
Acid ---- - - 81
Ash --- 27
No. 91. Zinfandel.
From vineyard of F. T. Eisen, Fresno. Grapes arrived in medium condition, October
second, and 64.79 pounds were crushed the same day, the juice showing 24.43 per cent sugar.
Fermentation was quiet throughout; starting at a temperature of (M", and reaching a
maxim of 71° F., room being then 70°. The murk was pressed from pomace, October
ninth, yielding 5.55 gallons. The young wine was racked from lees in November, and again
racked" in March following. Analysis of wine was made February 22, 1884.
Record of Tasting — Ajwil 20, 1SS5. — Alight-colored wine with good astringency. Bouquet
less pronounced than the Natoma sample ; acid somewhat in excess. Sample was lost soon
after by bursting of demijohn.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - - 24.43
Acid --- - 47
Ai^^-k^i.i Volume-- - '- 13.70
Alcohol: I ^gjg^t _ 1120
Body 2.69
Tannin - .05
Acid .44
Ash — - .30
No. 92A. Chauche Gris (with skins).
From vineyard of Charles Krug, St. Helena. 78.43 pounds were crushed and fermented
with the skins, like red grapes. Fermentation started October sixth, the day after crush-
ing, at a temperature of 64°; reached its maximum on the tenth, thermometer indicating
75°; temperature then gradually fell to that of the room; murk pressed from pomace
October twelfth, yielding 6.67 gallons.
The young wine was racked from the lees in the early part of November; again racked
in March, 1884. The wine was analyzed February 25, 1884.
Record of Tasting — Jamiary 26, 1SS6. — A heavy-bodied wine; harsh, and inferior in taste
to the same wine fermented without skins ; bouquet covered by general vinosity.
No. 93A. Chauche Gris (with skins). From young vines.-
From vineyard of W. G. Klee, Happy Valley, Santa Cruz County. Fermentation of the
75.79 pounds crushed began October eleventh, at a temperature of 67.6° F., the room being
at 70°. The action was quiet during the whole process. The maximum temperature
reached was 75.2°.
Murk pressed from pomace October eighteenth. Wine racked from lees in latter part of
November, and again racked in March, 1884, at which time the wine was analyzed.
Record of Tasting, April 20, 1885. — A wine of pleasant bouquet, but not as agreeable as
No. 14.
January 26, 1556'.— Condition of sample, bright; color, straw yellow; body, medium;
bouquet not as well developed as in No. 14; neither is the quality as good. The ferment-
ing with skins evidently makes the wine harsh.
49
ANALYSIS.
Sugar by spindle
Acid
Ai 1 1 f Volume
Alcohol: {^y^,j^,j^^_
Body
Tannin
Acid
Ash
Must.
Wine.
18.96
11.27
9.05
1.73
.63
.25
No. 92. Chauche Gris.
From vineyard of Charles Krug, St. Helena. The condition of the grapes on arrival at
the laboratory, October fifth, was not very good. 169.40 pounds were received, of which
90.47 pounds were crushed and fermented without skins, the yield being ().076 gallims. The
juice contained 20.94 per cent of sugar. The fermentation, which started at a temperature
of 66° F., was rapid and violent. The maximum temperature attained was 87°, with the
room about 70°.
The wine was drawn off the lees, October thirtieth, and again racked in March, 1884.
Wine was analyzed February 25, 1884.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1SS5. — A bright wine, with a fairly developed bouquet ; acid
slightly in excess.
Jamiary 26, 1886. — Bouquet decided, nutty; acid moderate and agreeable, but body thin,
and the wine, on the whole, not well developed.
No. 93. Chauche Gris. From young vines.
From vineyard of W. G. Klee, Happy "Valley, Santa Cruz County. Grapes arrived in
fair condition, October tenth, and were worked the same day. Of the total amount 167.75
pounds, 91.96 pounds were crushed for the purpose of fermenting without skins, and the
remainder, 75.79 pounds, to he fermented with .skins.
Fermentation of the former amount, which yielded 5.81 gallons juice, containing 18.96 per
cent sugar, started at a temperature of 67°, room 69°, and rose to a temperature of 83°, on
October thirteenth, and continued at that point until the next day; temperature then
gradually fell to that of the room. Wine was racked from lees during the first week of
November; again racked March, 1884, when an analysis was made.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1885. — A light pleasant wine ; bouquet well developed and
agreeable ; acid good.
January 26, 1886. — A light-bodied wine of bright condition, very pleasing and well devel-
oped bouquet and moderate acid. General quality very good.
In two-gallon demijohn stood with | gallon tdla'ge for six months, or so.
C. Krug.
W.J. Klee.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
20.94
.51
12.54
10.07
1.42
18.96
Acid -
.52
., , , (Volume
Wine.
11.54
Alcohol:|^ j j^
9.27
Body.....-.-.^ :::
1.52
Tannin -
Acid
.68
.23
.59
Ash -
.17
50
No. 94. 12 Franken Riesling.
From vineyard of Ch. Krug, at St. Helena. Grape.s arrived October fifth, in only medium
condition, and were worked the same day. Total amount received was 154.00 pounds, of
which 80.85 pounds were crushed, yielding 5.53 gallons juice, showing 20.16 per cent sugar,
which was fermented without skins.
Fermentation commenced October sixth, at a temperature of 63.5°, room being 68°; and
on October ninth, was quite violent, on which day the maximum temperature of 78.8° was
attained. Teinperature gradually fell until October thirteenth, when it reached that of
room.
Wine was racked from lees October twenty-seventh. Owing to the bursting of the dem-
ijohn containing the wine, it was lost before a satisfactory analysis or tasting could be
made.
No. 94 A. Franken Riesling (with skins).
From vineyard of Ch. Krug, St. Helena. The amount crushed for purpose of ferment-
ing with skins was 73.15 pounds.
Fermentation started October sixth, the day after crushing, at a temperature of 65.3°.
On the fifth day the action was quite violent, with a temperature of 74.76° — the maximum
attained during the fermentation.
Murk pressed from pomace October thirteenth. Young wine racked from lees in
November. Soon after lost by the bursting of the demijohn.
No. 95. Chauche Noir. From young vines.
From vineyard of W. G. Klee, Happy Valley, Santa Cruz County. Grapes arrived in
fair condition, October tenth, and were worked the same day. 85.25 pounds were crushed,
the juice .showing 20.78 per cent sugar.
Fermentation commenced October eleventh, at a temperature of 67° F., and rose gradu-
ally to 78°, the action increasing in violence as the temperature rose and decreased with
the fall.
Murk was pressed from pomace October eighteenth. Young wine racked from lees
during latter part of November, and again racked in March following. An analysis was
made at the same time.
Record of Tasting — April 20, 1SS5.—A. wine of pale color, and nothing characteristic. Taste,
somewhat flattish.
January 26, 1886. — Color, faded. Bouquet, unsatisfactory; not well developed, and the
wine, as a whole, not acceptable. Being from young vines, it is probably not a fair test of
what may be expected of this grape in the Santa Cruz Mountains, from where very good
samples of its wine have been received.
ANALYSIS.
Mxist.
Sugar by spindle 20.78
Acid.- -- .58
Wine.
Ai 1- 1 (Volume 11.64
Alcohol: I ^gigj^^_ _ 93^
Body 2.05
Tannin - -- .03
Acid .53
Ash - 27
No. 96. Seedless Sultana.
From vineyard of R. B. Blowers, Woodland, Yolo Coiinty. Condition of grapes on
arrival at laboratory, October seventeenth, was fair; some berries being converted into
raisins. Total weight of grapes received was 95.82 pounds, of which 54.45 pounds were
crushed and juice fermented without skins; the remainder, 40.37 pounds, fermented with
skins. The former amount yielded 3.37 gallons juice, showing 23.21 per cent sugar. Fer-
mentation remained quiet during the entire process. It started at 65° F. Maximum
temperature reached was 75°.
Wine was drawn off the lees on the first week of November, and again racked in March,
1884, at which time the wine was analyzed.
Record of Tasting. — A wine of no definite bouquet, but of more character than the same
wine made by fermenting with skins.
No. 18. Seedless Sultana (with skins).
Fermentation of the 40.37 pounds commenced October eighteenth, and was quiet
through the entire process. Highest temperature attained was 75°. Murk was pressed
from pomace October twenty-fourth, yielding 3.43 gallons.
Young wine was racked from lees during last week of November; again racked in
March, 1884, when an analysis was made.
Record of Tasting. — A wiiie of no bouquet and nothing at all characteristic.
51
White.
With Skins.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
23.21
.46
11.90
9.56
1.57
23 21
Acid --- - -
46
., ,1 (Volume
Wine.
1127
Alcohol: {weight .:...:::;:::::: ::::::::::::;::
9 05
Body
2 05
Tannin
06
Acid
.60
.20
67
Ash
27
52
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54
LIST OF WINE SAMPLES REGEIVED, 188^-85.
Wine.
Vint-
age.
Name of Contributor.
Locality.
German Muskateller
German Muskateller
German Muscatel ---
Chasselas Rose .-
Chasselas Rose
Victoria Chasselas
Victoria Chasselas
White Herbemont
Red Herbemont
Semillon
Burger
Muscat of Alexandria
Flaming Tokay
Feher Szagos
Tokay
Burger. --.
Burger -
Burger
Seedless Sultana
Blaue Elbling .-
Chauche Gris (Riesling)
Fehr Zagos
Catawba
Scuppernong
Mataro
Mataro
Mataro -
Mataro '-..
Mataro ..-
Mataro
Mataro -
Carignane
Carignane
Carignane
Carignane
Carignane
Grenache -
Grenache
Grenache -.
Grenache
Black Burgundy
Burgundy
Burgundy
Gamay Teinturier
Gamay Teinturier
Cabernet Sauvignon ._. -..
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc
Ploussard
Tannat - -.
Tannat
Grossblaue
Pied de Pedrix
Pinot Noir, g Pinot de Pernand.
Petite Sirah .-.
Petite Sirah J, Zinfandel §
Malbeck -..
Malbeck ..-
Malbeck
Charbono
Charbono, No. 1
Charbono, No. 2
Charbono
Charbono Blend -..
Malvoisie, No. 1--
Malvoisie, No. 2..
Malvoisie -
Trousseau
1880
1881
1882
1881
1882
1881
1882
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
G. Husmann
S. Husmann
. Husmann
J. H. Drummond
R. Barton
C. Cnopius
C. Cnopius
C. Cnopius --.
N. W.& M. Co
R. Barton
R. Barton
Stern & Rose
Stern & Rose
Stern & Rose
R. Barton
R. Barton
Paine
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vinevard.
Glen Ellen.
Fresno.
-Santa Rosa.
Santa Rosa.
Santa Rosa.
--- Natoma.
Fresno.
Fresno.
San Gabriel.
San Gabriel.
San Gabriel.
Fresno.
- Fresno.
1882
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1884
1883
1883
1883
1883
1884
1880
1883
1884
1884
1882
1883
1883
1882
1883
1883
1883
1884
1884
1883
1883
1883
1882
1883
1883
1883
1882
1883
1884
1882
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
H. W. Crabb
PI. W. Crabb
W. H. Scheffler ...
Jesuit Fathers
Capt. Merither
J. B.J. Portal
J. B.J. Portal
J. B. J. Portal
M. Denicke
W. H. Scheffler...
H. A. Peller.
J. B. J. Portal
Ch. Le Franc
J. B. J. Portal
J. B. J. Portal
Robert Barton
H. W. Crabb
George Husmann.
J. B.J. Portal
H. W. Crabb
J. H. Drummond .
H. W. Crabb
J. H. Drummond .
J. B.J. Portal
J. B.J. Portal
H. W. Crabb
J. H. Drummond .
H. W. Crabb
H. W. Crabb
J. H. Drummond .
J. H. Drummond .
J. H. Drummond.
H. W. Crabb
J. T. Doyle
Ch. Le Franc
H. W. Crabb
J.T. Dovle---
J.T.Doyle
H. W. Crabb
C. O. Butler
J.T. Doyle
J.T. Doyle
Juan Gallegos
J.T. Doyle
-. Oak ville.
— .-- Oakville.
St. Helena.
Cupertino.
Cupertino.
. --Burgundy Vineyard.
. - . Burgundy Vineyard.
.-.Burgundy Vineyard.
Fresno.
St. Helena.
St. Helena.
West San Jos^.
Almaden Vineyard.
Almaden Vineyard.
Almaden Vineyard.
Fresno.
Oakville.
Talcoa Vineyard.
West San Jose.
--Oakville.
Glen Ellen.
Oakville.
Glen Ellen.
.--Burgundy Vineyard.
.--Burgundy Vineyard.
Oakville.
.-.- -- Glen Ellen.
.-- Oakville.
Oakville.
Glen Ellen.
Glen Ellen.
Glen Ellen.
Oakville.
Cupertino, S. Clara Co.
Almaden Vineyard.
Oakville.
- . Cupertino.
Cupertino.
Oakville.
. - Hanf ord, Tulare Co.
Cupertino.
Cupertino.
Mission San Jos€.
.- - Cupertino.
55
List of Wine Samples Received, 1883-85 — Continued.
Trousseau .-.
Trousseau
Pinot .-.-
Black Prince
Lenoir |, Burger |
Black Hamburg
Mission
Claret
Claret
Red wine - -..
Brandy
Port wine
Sherry
Sherry
Zinfandel (red hill land)
Zinfandel .-
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel (fermented on husks
of Cabernet and Tannat)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel (light-colored)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel (three-year old vines)
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinf a ndel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel, No. 1
Zinfandel, No. 2
Zinfandel, No. 3
Zinfandel, No. 2
Zinfandel, No. 3
Zinfandel, No. 9
Zinfandel, No. 12..
Blend: -^
Mataro, 8.16 per cent I
Zinfandel, 16.33 per cent |
Malbec, 8.16 per cent [-
Chauche Noir, 16.33 per cent..
Trousseau, 44.89 per cent
West's White Prolific, 16.13 p ct
Blend:
Mataro, 8.70 per cent
Zinfandel, 26.10 per cent
Trousseau .._
FoUe Blanche
"Milksour wine"
1883
1884
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1879
1882
1883
1873
1880
1881
1882
1882
1882
1882
1882
1882
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
18S3
1883
1883
1884
1884
18&1
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Name of Contributor.
M. Denicke
C. A. Wetmore...
J.T.Doyle
J. T. Doyle
H. W. Crabb
C. Cnopius
C. Cnopius
R. Barton
Ch. Richber
H. J. Leeman
H. J. Leeman
H. J. Leeman
H. J. Leeman
Ch. Meinecke
J. H. Drummond
Juan Gallegos ...
Juan Gallegos ...
George Husmann
J. H. Drummond
Ch. Krug
M. Denicke
H. W. Crabb
H. W. Crabb
Locality.
Fresno.
- Livermore.
- . Cupertino.
-- Cupertino.
...-Oakville.
-Santa Rosa.
-Santa Rosa.
Fresno.
Fresno.
J. H. Drummond
George Husmann
George Husmann
Ch. Knust
J. T. Doyle
Juan Gallegos
N.W.&M. Co
Capt. Sherman
R. Barton
Ch. Richber
Duquesne
William Pfeffer.-.
J. B. J. Portal
W. H. Scheffler-..
J.T.Doyle
J. B. J. Portal
R. Barton
Stern & Rose
Stern & Rose
Stern & Rose
H. Eggers
H. Eggers
H. Eggers
H. Eggers
C. A. Wetmore.
C. A. Wetmore. .-
Per W. B. Rising.
San Francisco.
Glen Ellen.
-Mission San Jos6.
.Mission San Jos6.
- Talcoa Vineyard.
Glen Ellen.
St. Helena.
Fresno.
Oakville.
Oakville.
Glen Ellen.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Talcoa Vineyard.
Cloverdale.
-Cupertino, S. Clara Co.
Mission San Jos6.
Natoma.
EI Cajon, San Diego Co.
Fresno.
Fresno.
Fresno.
Gubserville.
.--Burgundy Vinevard.
..-St. Helena.
Cupertino.
...Burgundy Vineyard.
Fresno.
San Gabriel.
San Gabriel.
San Gabriel.
Fresno.
Fresno.
Fresno.
Fresno.
Livermore.
Livermore.
56
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF WINES SENT IN FOR ANALYSIS FOR THE SEASON
1883-4.
A. Reds.
No. 121. Mataro, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. A clear, moderately deep ruby-colored wine, of good,
claret-like bouquet, with pleasant acid and adequate astringency. Flavor, vinous and
agreeable; body, medium. Dilution with fifty per cent water, very good. A wine blend
made at the time of tasting, of equal parts Mataro and Zinfandel, was not satisfactory.
No. 122. Mataro, 1883.
From H. W. Crabb. Color of wine is not deep, being only light garnet; condition, clear;
body, medium to heavy; bouquet, undefined, very immature, but accompanied by a vin-
ous flavor ; acid, light, with fair astringency.
No. 123. Mataro, 1883.
From J. B. J. Portal, West San Jose. A moderately deep-tinted wine of medium body,
fair acidity and astringency, and clean taste. Too young to show any characteristic bou-
quet, but promising an excellent development.
No. 121 A. Mataro, 1883.
From Captain Merither, Cupertino, per John T. Doyle. (Tasting not on record.)
No. 124. Mataro Frs., 1883.
From vineyard of Jesuit Fathers, Cupertino, per John T. Doyle. (Tasting not on record.)
No. 149. Malheck, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. The sample is a heavy-bodied bright wine of intense
purple color, with a strongly vinous and claret-like flavor, but bouquet undeveloped.
Acid is decided and agreeable, while the astringency is a little roughish. The result,
after adding 50 per cent water to wine, is good; 100 per cent not agreeable.
Wine blend of equal parts Malbeck and Zinfandel, good.
No. 150. Malheck, 1883.
From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino. A very deep-tinted but bright, heavy-bodied wine, of
strong, almost rough astringency ; too young to show much character, but already dis-
tinctly of the Bordeaux Claret type.
At a later tasting (December, "1884), the character of this wine was found to be finely
developed, and of the geniiine Medoc type; but it is so heavy-bodied that for table use
its blend with a lighter wine is desirable.
No. 143. Tannat, 1883.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. Wine has a very decided astringency, moderately intense,
purplish-garnet color; somewhat low acid; undeveloped but promising bouquet, with
vinous flavor; condition, bright; body, heavy. With one half its bulk of water the result
is very good ; with equal bulk, dubious as regards general quality, but good, with refer-
ence to color.
No. 143 A. Tannat, 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. Sample has an agreeable, though undeveloped
bouquet, with a vinous flavor well developed for its age. Astringency is very prominent;
acid, moderate; body, quite low ; condition, almost clear ; color, garnet, moderately intense.
Dilution with water nolds good up to 75 per cent of its own bulk.
No. 144. Grossblaue, 1883.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. A wine of intense purple color, so much so that the color
holds good after the wine has been diluted with its own bulk of water. Bouquet is unde-
veloped, but promises well. Flavor, vinous; acid, light; astringency very decided, but
agreeable; body, good; condition, briglit.
Wine is too astringent for use by itself, but excellent for blending.
No. 144 A. Grossblaue, 1883.
From H. A. Pellet, St. Helena. Medium-bodied wine of a very intense bluish jnirple
color, high astringency, and low acid. Bouquet undeveloped, but flavor is agr<'('a))k' and
vinous. The general quality is high ; condition, very bright; dilution to 50 per cent, passa-
ble ; 100 per cent, color good, but wine flattish.
57
No. 134. Black Burgundy, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. A heavy-bodied wine of intense purple color, clear condi-
tion, and pronounced astringency ; acid decided, a little shares. Bouquet faint, apparently
undeveloped. With 50 per cent water the result is quite good; 100 per cent, not desirable.
No. 135. Black Burgundy, 1883.
From George Husmann. A wine of good bouquet, medium body, fair acid and astrin-
gency, and vinous flavor. Color, moderately deep.
No. 139. Cabernet Sauvignon, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. Wine of moderately dark garnet color, with a vinous
flavor, accompanied by a perceptible, light bouquet; fair acid and medium astringency.
Body, good; condition, clear. The wine promises very well.
No. 140. Cabernet Sauvignon, 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. Wine has a boiiquet which is faintly developed,
but of excellent quality. Acid somewhat sharp ; astringency only medium. Body, low ;
color, moderately intense purple.
No. 137. Gamay Teinturier,* 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. A wine of heavy body, deep purple color, vinous flavor,
and good, claret-like bouquet. Acid moderate, "^pleasant; astringency agreeable, though
somewhat low. After addition of 50 per cent water, the wine is still good ; 100 per cent,
only passable.
No. 138. Gamay Teinturier,* 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. A clear, medium-bodied wine, of strong purplish
garnet color; decided and pleasant astringency; fair acid, with a fruity and agreeable
bouquet, accompanied by a claret-like flavor and somewhat alcoholic odor. Dilution is
good to 100 per cent of water.
No. 145. Pied de Pedrix, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. The condition of sample, clear and bright, and color very
■dark purple. The bouquet, though undeveloped, promises very well. Flavor, vinous;
astringency fair and acid decided. Body good, though somewhat light. With 50 per cent
of water, the result is a fair wine, but acid comes out too prominently. With 100 per cent
water it is flattish.
No. 147. Petite Sirah, 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. Condition of sample, clear, accompanied by a very
light garnet color; astringency, low; acid, moderate ; pleasant odor claret-like; bouquet
undeveloped.
No. 154. Charbono, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. Condition of sample is bright with a moderately intense
purple color, a rather light body, and a decided fruity bouquet; astringency adequate, and
acid a little sharp. The character of the wine somewhat impaired by the casky flavor.
No. 154 A. Charbono, 1883.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. Sample is clear, medium-bodied, and of intense purple
color; astringency, fair; acid, low; bouquet undeveloped; flavor fairly vinous. Dilution
with 50 per cent water results in a fair wine; with 100 per cent, only tolerable.
No. 155. Charbono blend, 1883.
From C. O. Butler, Hanford. A clear wine of light garnet color, thin body, moderate
acid, no bouquet, with an earthy unpleasant flavor, and mawkish aftertaste; astringency
hardly perceptible; though sound, evidently grown on alkali soil.
No. 128 A. Carignane, 1883.
From H. A. Pellet, St. Helena. A heavy-bodied wine of good astringency and medium
acid. Bouquet, decided, and well developed for its age, accompanied by a remarkably
vinous flavor and alcoholic odor. Color, purplish, moderately intense; condition, clear
but not bright. With fifty per cent water the wine is still good. With its own bulk of
water the result is fair, color, acid, and astringency still holding good.
* Doubtless the "Teinturier mtle."
58
No. 127. Cangnane, 1883.
From M. Denicke, Fresno. Wine is clear and bright, and of a lightish purple color.
There is no alcoholic odor accompanying the wine, and bouquet is undeveloped. Flavor,
vinous; acid and astringency only medium ; body, fair. With one half its bulk of water
the dilution is " only tolerable."
No. 158. Mahoisie, 188.3.
From J. Gallegos, Mission San Jos^. A clear, medium-bodied wine, of imperceptible
bouquet, indefinite flavor, light acid, and very lov? astringency ; color, very light garnet.
No. 165. Black Hamburg, 1883.
From Ch. Cnopius. A wine of medium acid and astringency, heavy body, and very
light bouquet ; color, light red ; condition, slightly turbid.
No. 110. Feher Szagos, 1883.
From Ch. Cnopius, Santa Rosa. A light straw colored wine, of undeveloped bouquet,
vinous, but slightly casky flavor, heavy body and pleasant acid.
No. 118. Feher Szagos, 1884.
From R. Barton, Fresno. Bouquet fairly developed ; body, heavy ; acid, medium ; flavor,
vinous, nutty; color, pale straw; a very fair, drinkable wine.
No. 108. Muscat of Alexandria, 1883.
From Ch. Cnopius. Santa Rosa. A heavy-bodied wine, of topaz color and clear con-
dition. Bouquet, covered by muscat odor; acid, light.
No. 166. White Mission, 1883.
From Ch. Cnopius, Santa Rosa. Condition of sample, bright; color, white; faintly red-
dish; body, light; bouquet, faint ; flavor, fairly vinous.
No. 100. Chasselas Rose, or Violet Chasselas, 1881.
From George Husmann, Napa. A reddish topaz-colored wine, of clear condition, and
decided Chasselas aroma and alcoholic odor. Decided but pleasant acid, perceptible
astringency, and vinous flavor. Bouquet, agreeable, light; body, heavy.
No. 101. Chasselas Rose, 1SS2.
From George Husmann, Napa. Condition of wine is clear; color, light topaz; body,
medium ; flavor, strongly vinous, but bouquet undeveloped. The acid is agreeable, though
less than that of the previous vintage.
No. 104. TT7ii7e Herbemont, 1883.
From George Husmann, Napa. A bright, medium-bodied wine, of reddi.sh -white color;
full, pleasant acid, and well-developed bouquet; flavor, vinous.
No. 102. Victoria Chasselas, 1881.
From George Husmann, Napa. Condition of sample, bright; body, heavy ; flavor, vinous,
nutty, accompanied by a decided, agreeable bouquet; acid, full but pleasant; color, red-
dish topaz.
No. 103. Victoria Chasselas, 1882.
From George Husmann, Napa. A light-bodied wine, of straw color, medium acid, and
a slightly casky flavor. Bouquet not well developed; condition, clear.
No. 98. German Miiskateller, 1881:
From George Husmann, Napa. A bright, straw-colored wine, of heavy body, moderate
acid, and good bouquet.
No. 99. German Muskateller, 1882.
From George Husmann, Napa. Muscat aroma, decided; bovfquet, light; body, heavy;
acid, higher than that of same wine of previous year.
No. 106. Semillon, 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. Condition of sample, bright, with a pale topai^
color, medium acid, well-developed vinous flavor, accompanied by a characteristic Sauterne
bouquet.
No. 173. Sherry.
From Charles Meinecke, San Francisco. Heavy-bodied wine, light brown in color, with
a very faint bouquet, but fruity flavor; acid, fair; condition, bright.
59
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61
COMPOSITION OF ZINPANDEL WINES.
In Bulletin No. 9, elated April 2, and subsequently in Bulletin No. 12, of
May 30, 1884, were given discussions of the analyses of Zinfandel wines
made up to that time, twenty-four in number. The table below gives
twenty-one additional ones, or forty-five in all. The large measure of atten-
tion given to this grape variety is justified by the fact alone, that in 1884
it was estimated as constituting two fifths of all the vines then planted
in the State. The cause of this preference, as is well known, is the rapid
growth, hardiness, and high production of the Zinfandel vine, together
with its adaptation (at least so far as quantity is concerned) to a great
variety of soils; while the red wines yielded by it, though not rising to the
highest quality, form thus far the bulk of " California clarets," and when
sound, are pleasant table wines, endowed, however, with a flavor peculiar
to the grape, not easily mistaken, and too pronounced for the taste of many
who are accustomed to the Bordeaux type of table clarets. From the fact'
that this flavor is found in nearly all the red shipping wines of the State,
the impression has gone abroad that it is inherent in California wines as
such, and that the true Bordeaux type cannot be reproduced on this coast.
Those who have tasted the clarets exhibited at the viticultural conventions
of the past two years, are well aware how utterly unfounded is this impres-
sion, it having been abundantly seen that with the proper grape varieties,
and rational treatment in accordance with the requirements of this climate,
the true Bordeaux claret type can in many localities at least be reproduced
without difficulty. But this fact, however acceptable to those who are now
planting vineyards, does not relieve those who have the large Zinfandel
plantations on their hands, from the difficulty of finding a sufficiently
extensive market for the bulk of their product.
The devising of proper blends for the Zinfandel wines, in which their too
prominent character shall be in a measure disguised or made harmonious
with other flavors, is certainly one of the most important problems now
before us, not only with respect to the vineyards already existing, but also
in respect to the maintenance of the culture of so desirable and fruitful a
stock. Hence the analysis of Zinfandel wines was early taken in hand, in
order that a clew might be obtained for the modification of at least those
characters of which chemical analysis, and not the palate alone, can take
cognizance. Moreover, from the widely extended culture of this variety it
was comparatively easy to ascertain, by comparison of the several points
of composition, the influence of locality and soil in modifying its product,
and thus to lead up to a forecasting of corresponding influences to be looked
for in the case of other grape varieties. The importance of such forecasting
cannot easily be overestimated, as is shown by the constantly repeated
question, on the part of those about to engage in the vineyard enterprises:
" What shall I plant ? " It is of no mean importance to replace the more
or less blind guessing on the part of even the older vineyardists, by some-
thing more palpable and definite, if possible.
In the work of the Viticultural Laboratory of the University, both of the
above points have been kept constantly in view, and every opportunity
promising progress in that direction has been embraced. It is very obvious
that this cannot be the work of a few years, so far as the State at large is
concerned ; and even as regards particular localities or regions, the need of
corroboration by time and repeated experience, as in all agricultural exper-
iments, must not be forgotten. Still, a reasonably numerous representation
of wines from one and the same region during several consecutive vintages
62
affords very strong presumptions and convenient working hypotheses; and
as the number of data is increased, such presumptions soon acquire such
consistency as to serve, in any case, as a far better basis for practice than
the wild guesses of beginners, or of those who have only their own local
experience to offer as a guide for far-away locations.
However imperfect, then, may be the cogency of the conclusions thus far
reached by our work, they afford at least good presumptions, to be strength-
ened by daily accretion of facts if correct, or quickly contradicted by expe-
rience if incorrect.
The general conclusions reached at the time when Bulletin No. 12 was
published, have thus far only been corroborated by the additional work
done; and this being the case, it is but fair that its substance should be
literally reproduced here:
BULLETIN No. 12.
Examination of Zinfandel Wines.
In a previous bulletin (No. 9, April 2, 1884), were given the analyses of thirteen red (main
crop) Zinfandel wines from different localities in the State, with five others referring to
second crop and white wines from the same grape variety. The great predilection towards
this grape, and the great breadth of vineyards now established in which it forms the lead-
ing ingredient, renders a full understanding of its general, as well as local peculiarities, a
matter of considerable importance to the viticultural interests of the State.
Hence, the conclusions apparently foreshadowed by the analyses heretofore published,
have called forth widespread interest; and contributions of samples from localities and
locations not before represented, have since so far supplemented the data of the former
bulletin, as to render it desirable to publish them in connection and juxtaposition with
those before reported.
In the table below are given eleven additional analyses (or twenty-four in all), the addi-
tional localities represented being Cloverdale, Glen Ellen, in the Sonoma Valley, and the
neighborhood of San Jos6 and Mountain View, Santa Clara County.
(The additional localities represented in the enlarged table now given
are in the Sierra foothills, viz., Natoma, Sacramento County, and Penryn,
Placer County. But several of the localities previously occupied are rep-
resented by additional vintages.)
In comparing the data of this table with those given in Bulletin No. 9, it becomes neces-
sary to take into account difference in the location of the several vineyards of the same
locality. Thus, the conclusion that the Zinfandels of Napa Valley are deficient in tannin
appears here to be contradicted, yet only apparently; for the Napa wines showing a good
to high tannin percentage in the present table are not from valley lands proper, bvit from
hill lands adjacent; thus showing very important differences to arise from what are com-
monly considered slight variations in location. Considering first the point of
"solid contents,"
Or "body," we find in the northern localities of Santa Rosa and Cloverdale two vintages
(Nos. 37 and 284), showing a heavy body, somewhat over three per cent, while in three
vintages of Glen Ellen (Nos. 174, 178, and 182), the average body is quite light, like that
of the valley wines of Napa (Nos. 5 and 181). Alongside of the two latter appear two
others (Nos. 179 and 181A) from higher lands of the same localities, viz., Krug's and
Crabb's vineyards, both alike showing a markedlj' heavier body, as also does No. 40, from
the hills of Talcoa Vineyard. Whether No. 177 grew on low land in the same locality is
not on record, but seems probable.
No. 193, from Mr. Schefiler's vineyard near St. Helena, shows an abnormally heavy body
for the latitude, though in other respects it does not differ markedly from other wines of
the same region. The anomaly may be traceable to some peculiarity in its treatment or
location.
Passing southward we find a remarkable agreement in the figures for the Zinfandels of
the Santa Clara Valle>», Nos. 175, 176, 185, and 192, those from Mission San Josi?, West San
Jos<i, and Cupertino Creek, alike coming within a trifle of three per cent of solid contents.
As none of these wines contain any unfermented sugar, the indication that in this region
the Zinfandel yields too heavy a body for clarets proper, seems quite definite; and it is
not a little remarkable that a region so near the coast should, in this respect, stand next
to Fresno, an interior region of steady high Summer temperature.
As regards the latter, llichber's wine (No. 190), adds to the list of extraordinarily heavy-
bodied wines from that region, while Denicke's 1882 (No. 180), stands between these and
63
Eisen's (No. 91), in which the percentage is only 2.69. It wUl probably be found that both
the latter are from low ground, while the rest are from higher land.
ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH.
Since the alcohol percentage can, to a certain extent, be governed at will by the producer
in the degree to which he allows the grapes to ripen, the data of the table are largely,
no doubt, affected by individual practice; yet heretofore it has been usual to give the
wines, as nearly as possible, the maximum strength, in accordance with the curiously
irrational demand of the wine merchants. On the whole the alcohol percentage runs
nearly parallel with that of the " body," being highest, closely approaching the possible
maximum, at Fresno, next highest in the Santa Clara Valley, and at Stockton; a lower
average in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, rising somewhat at Santa Rosa and Cloverdale.
The great variation in the three Glen Ellen vintages (Nos. 174, 178, and 182) is quite re-
markable, and so far as that of 1883 (No. 182) is concenied, is probably in part due to the
unfavorable season that so generally affected the crop in the northern part of the State.
The analyses given in the previous bulletin (No. 9) led to the conclusion that the Zin-
fandels of Napa Valley were remarkably deficient in tannin, as exemplified in Nos. 5 and
181. The more ample data of the present table show, however, that the outcome is quite
different in the hill lands adjoining; for Krug's 1882 (No. 179) from such lands shows, in
strong contrast to No. 5, next to the highest tannin percentage of the whole table (29 pro
mille), requiring to be blended in order to subdue the harshness. Crabb's 1883 (No. 181 A),
also from higher land, gives over 7 pro mille, and Scheffler's (No. 93), likewise from slope
land, 15 pro viille. Of Drumniond's Glen Ellen wines, from red slope lands, one shows 14
pro mille, the other two respectively 7 and 8.6. It thus appears that while in but few cases
the tannin rises quite as high as the average of French clarets {20pro mille), yet a respecta-
ble amount is obtained in the hill lands of Napa and Sonoma; so that there can be little
difficulty in obtaining all that is desirable by blends with grapes naturally richer in tan-
nin than the Zinfandels.
Denicke's 1882 (No. 180) .shows again the tendency of Fresno wines to high tannin, as
already previously shown. But the climax is reached in Richber's 1883 (No. 190), which
shows the astonishing amount of 33.8 pro mille; making, with its high body, high alcohol,
and low acid, a product of exaggerated Fresno peculiarities hardly pleasant to drink as it
is, but exceedingly useful for blending purposes. It will be highly interesting to ascertain
in what precise locality and under what circumstances Mr. Richber's wine was ])roduced,
as it will give important indications as to the relations between soil and grape i:)roduct in
that region.
In the matter of
ACID,
It is interesting to find that in the vintages of 1883 the acid is, in Napa and Sonoma, almost
throughout, lower than in 1882, or than the average of previous vintages on record in the
Santa Clara Valley. However, Doyle's and Portal's 1883 show an average near to that of
Gallegos' 1882, indicating that the causes that depressed this factor to northward were less
active here. Similarly, Duquense's and Denicke's wines of 1883, Fresno, show a good acid
percentage, the latter being almost throughout a remarkably well proportioned and palata-
ble wine of its age, almost identical with that of the Cajon Valley, No. 188.
The showing made by the above table, in respect to the wide differences caused by local-
ity and climate in the composition of Zinfandel wines, is sufficiently eloquent of the need
of detailed and close observation, in each region, of the prominent peculiarities, in order
to adapt to them the proper blends. If a certain proportion of Mataro and Trousseau
makes the most acceptable blend in the Santa Clara and Livermore Valleys, it does not
prove that the same will be best in Napa and Fresno; the more, as the other grape varie-
ties are undoubtedly similarly modified in the several localities. It has been thought best
to push through, at once, a full series of examinations of one of the most widely diffused
grape varieties, in order to show the importance of the results that niay be thus obtained,
since the material on hand does not allow of such extensive comparisons in the case of any
other grape. Several smaller, but, nevertheless, very important series of samples are in
progress of examination, and their analyses will be published as fast as their completion
may render it profitable. The occurrence of the University vacation of ten weeks from
date, will, for the time being, interrupt the work ; but it is hoped that those able to con-
tribute samples of authentic origin from single grape varieties will, in the meantime, add
as much as possible to the collection, and that during the coming vintage many will pre-
pare samples for the express purpose of obtaining, through such examination, an insight
into the peculiarities of their wines and grapes. Thus far the foothills of the Sierra are
almost entirely unrepresented; and yet, the future importance of that, region in grape
growing can hardlv be a matter of doubt.
Berkeley, May 30, 1884.
A review of the table below, with its twenty-one additional analyses, will
show that the above conclusions have only been strengthened throughout
64
by the additional data, so far as the same locaHties are concerned. The
slope lands of the Santa Clara Valley and the products of Fresno still show
the high body and tannin previously foreshadowed; but the late and cold
season of 1884 gave, in the Fresno region, as everywhere else in that year,
unusually high acid and relatively low alcohol. In the vintage of 1885, so
far as it has come under observation, high alcohol percentages are almost
universal, and tannin, as well as in most cases acid, is considerably
increased. But the difference in favor of tannin in the hill lands, as
against the plain, is strikingly exemplified in the case of the Mission San
Jose Zinfandels, where Gallegos wine shows about 50 per cent more tannin
than in three previous seasons; but that amount is nearly doubled in the
wine grown on the hill land at the same place, viz.: Mclvor's. This is
precisely what previous analyses had shown to be the rule for the Napa
Valley and elsewhere.
The representation of Zinfandels from the foothills is unfortunately too
small to be comdncing, the more as two of the Natoma wines represent
second crop. In view of the varied nature of the foothill lands — part valley,
part slope and hills, and underlaid by varying rocks, such as slate, granite,
gravel, and igneous rocks — it will be very difficult to come to any general
conclusions without a very wide range of data, accurate not only as to loca-
tion, but also in respect to the lay of the land and nature of soil.
Second Crop and White Zinfandel Wines. — Several of these are given in
the table, but in order to present summarily the points noted in respect to
them, I introduce here a portion of Bulletin No. 9, relating to this subject,
the table for second crop being increased by the introduction of the 1885
wines of Gallegos:
For comparison with the above series, it is interesting to note the composition of_ " sec-
ond crop" wines, that is, made of grapes only just ripe, but not "full-ripe." The subjoined
table gives the composition of two (three) such wines:
Second Crop Zinfandel Wines.
Contributor.
Locality.
<
CO
■a o
5-g
i ^
Alcohol.
Tannin
>
g S
1
;
o_
g
1 p.
N
T
atoma Company
Folsom
Mission San Jos^
Mission San Jos6
188.3
1883
1885
2.060
2.440
2.069
8.48
8.13
8.54
10.60
10.20
11.00
.035
.025
.120
8.10
.700
T
8.73
Comparing these wines with the general "run" of the main crop Zinfandels in the first
table, the differences are sufficiently apparent, especially where, as in the sample from
Mission San Jos4, a direct comparison can be made. As it may fairly be presumed that
the Folsom wine would, on the whole, resemble the wines from Stockton and Talcoa Vine-
yard, the outcome might be thus stated: light body, light alcoholic strength, little tannin,
nmch acid— a material fit, in general, for blending only, as it does not seem to develop
much bouquet. The great and frequent utility of the second crop Zinfandel in carrying
other wines through their fermentation, when for any cause it has been checked, is not
to be forgotten.
It thus appears that, as our best wine experts have long contended, no one locality thu.s
far represented will yield a true claret from Zinfandels alone. Of all, the Cajon Valley
wine comes nearest to such a composition; but until that product shall have acquired
some age, its merits cannot be definitelv determined. The great bulk of all Zinfandels in
the State will need to be blended, and the blends must vary considerably with the locality.
In fact, it is plain that the Zinfandel is not a true claret grape; but there can be no dcmbt
that it will lend itself to the prc]>aration of exceedingly acceptable red wines, under what-
ever name. Perhaps its adaptation to white wines deserves more serious attention than
65
has heretofore been bestowed upon it. The subjoined table shows the differences between
red and white wines prepared from the same lots of grapes in the Viticultural Laboratory:
Comparison Between Red and White Zinfandel Wines.
Locality.
<
3"
Solid Contents
by Spindle
Alcohol.
S
5'
>
Contributor.
c
S
u
NatomaCo. ; 2d crop < ^'
George West < y^r'
Charles Krug ] ~^'
Folsom _ . . - 1
Stockton - - <
St. Helena . <
1883
1883
1881
1881
1880
1880
2.060
1.880
2.575
2.060
2.000
1.800
8.48
8.98
11.57
11.41
9.20
9.34
10.60
11.25
14.20
14.10
11.46
11.54
.035
.063
.810
.548
.437
.420
.390
.600
It will be noted that there is no material difference in the alcohol percentages of the red
and white wines ; but the latter have less body, of course less tannin, and in general less
acid than the red. To the latter rule there is a conspicuous and unexplained exception in
the case of Mr. Krug's wine. The white Zinfandel wines often develop a very agreeable
bouquet, and in any case form an excellent material for blending with lighter wines.
Berkeley, April 2, 1884.
In order to present a complete view of the subject, the descriptive hst
beloAy contains all the Zinfandels thus far analyzed up to 1885. The table
includes, also, those published in the report of 1882:
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF ZINFANDELS, 1880-1884.
No. 174. Zinfandel, 1880.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. From red hill land. Color of sample not very
deep; condition, bright; acid and astringency, both light; body, medium; bouquet not
strong, but flavor vinous and claret-like. The color, after the wine has been diluted with
one half its bulk of water, remains quite stable, and the general quality is good.
No. 175. Zinfandel, 1881.
From J. Gallegos, Mission San Jos<5. Sample is full-bodied, of deep garnet color, and
clear condition, with moderate acid and a well developed vinous flavor. Bouquet, claret-
like, but not as alcoholic as Gallegos' Zinfandel of 1882. The wine dilutes well.
No. 176. Zinfandel, 1882.
From J. Gallegos, Mission San Jos^. A bright wine of garnet color, with pleasant acid
and fair astringency. Bouquet light, with alcoholic odor very faint after dilution ; flavor
vinous and well developed ; body, medium. With 100 per cent water the wine is good as
regards acid and astringency.
Ko. 178. Zinfandel, 1882.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. Red hill land. A heavy-bodied wine of agreeable
acid and astringency, with a pleasant, light bouquet and vinous flavor. Condition, clear;
color, light garnet. Dilution with 50 per cent water is very good ; 100 per cent, only fair.
No. 177. Zinfandel, 1882.
From George Husmann, Napa. A wine of light garnet color, with a good body, low
astringency, and somewhat excessive acid. Bouquet, claret-like, somewhat alcoholic ;
flavor, vinous and agreeable; condition, clear, but not bright.
No. 181. Zinfandel, 1882.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. The sample is clear, not bright, with an intense purple
color. Bouquet, claret-like, rather faint; flavor, vinous and slighty fruity; acid, decided;
astringency, fair; body, medium. With 50 per cent water only a fair result is obtained.
66
No. 179. Zinfandel, 1882.
From Charles Krug, St. Helena. A deep purple-colored wine, bright, with moderate
and agreeable acid, and high astringency, both being well proportioned. Bouquet, well
developed and claret-like; flavor, vinous; body, good.
No. 180. Zinfandel, 1882.
From M. Denicke, Fresno. Bouquet of sample is light and agreeable ; odor vinous, not
alcoholic ; acid and astringency, both good ; body, heavy ; condition, clear ; color, deep gar-
net. Dilution to 50 per cent water, very good ; iOO per cent, fair.
No. 182. Zinfandel, 1883.
From J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen. (Fermented on pressed pomace of Tannat and Cab-
eret.) A clear, light garnet wine, of moderate body, light acid, and decided astringency,
with an undeveloped but claret-like bouquet.
No. 181 A. Zinfandel,lSm.
From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. A deep purple colored wine, of heavy body, vinous flavor,
but undeveloped bouquet; acid and astringency not at all high; condition is clear but not
bright. Wine diluted with one half of its bulk of water is good; with equal bulks, only
fairly so.
No. 193. ZinfandeJ, 1883.
From W. Scheffler, St. Helena. A clear, heavy -bodied wine, of very intense purple color,
with a claret-like bouquet, which promises well; acid full and astringency good; flavor
vinous, with a trace of sweetness. With 50 per cent of water the result is good, and acid
strongly characterized ; 100 per cent, fair.
No. 186. Zinfandel, 1883.
From J. Gallegos, Mission San Jose. The body is lighter than the same wine of the two
preceding years ; astringency lower but acid somewhat higher. Bouquet, not develoi^ed ;
color, light garnet ; condition, bright.
No. 185. Zinfandel, 1883.
From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino. A bright wine of good body, medium and pleasant acid,
and decided astringency. Bouquet, undeveloped; flavor, vinous; color, dark purple.
With 50 per cent water the result is good; 100 per cent, qtiite passable.
No. 192. Zinfandel, 1883.
From J. B. J. Portal, West San Jos^. A wine of moderate and agreeable acid and good
astringency. Bouquet, undeveloped; flavor, alcoholic, fruity, and vinous. The sample is
bright with an intense purplish red color and heavy body. With 50 per cent water result
very good ; 100 per cent, quite fair.
No. 284. Zinfandel, 1883.
From Chas. Knust, Cloverdale. Condition of sample, clear not bright. Wine is too
young to judge of its bouquet, likewise as regards the flavor. Body, above medium; acid,
moderate ; astringency, low ; color, deep purple.
No. 187. Zinfandel, 1883.
From N. W. & M. Company, Natoma. No data regarding this samjile are on record.
No. 189. Zinfandel, 1883.
Three-year old wines from R. Barton, Fresno. A wine of immature bouquet with alco-
hohcodor; acid somewhat low but astringency quite decided. Body, heavy; condition,
clear; color, dark purple. Wine will not bear dilution, the acid disappearing.
No. 190. Zinfandel, 1883.
From C. Richber, Fresno. A heavy-bodied wine of no perceptible bouquet; low acid, but
very high astringency; color, intense purple; condition, clear.
No. 285. Zinfandel, 1883.
Duquesne Cellar, Fresno. Acid and astringency of sample, medium ; bouquet, unde-
veloped; body, heavy. Wine is moderately deep purple in color, and in bright condition.
67
No. 188. Zinfandel, 1883.
Cajit. Sherman, El Cajon, San Diego County. The wine has a decided claret-like bouquet,
accompanied by a vinous flavor; condition, clear; body, somewhat light; acid and astrin-
gency decided and agreeable; color, intense purplish red.
No. 195. Zinfandel, 1884.
From J. B. J. Portal. Bouquet characteristic and well developed; flavor, vinous, clean ;
astringency, good; condition, bright; color, intense purplish red.
No. 194. Zinfandel, 1884.
From John T. Doyle, Cupertino. A heavy-bodied wine, of dee^i color and somewhat
pronounced acid, and good, clear Zinfandel flavor ; promising, but too young to develop
much bouquet; astringency, not high.
No. 197. . Zinfandel, 1884.
From Stern & Rose. A medium-bodied \yine, of moderate acid; good astringency;
color, moderately deep red; condition, bright; bouquet, not very well developed.
No. 200. Zinfandel, No. 2, 1884.
From Eggers' Vineyard, Fresno. Condition of sample, clear, with deep purple color ;
heavy body; high acid and astringency; vinous flavor and strong Zinfandel bouquet;
dilution with 50 per cent water, very good , 100 per cent, very fair ; 150 per cent, passable ;
color, acid, and astringency well kept.
No. 202. Zinfandel, No. 9, 1884.
From Eggers' Vineyard, Fresno. (Pure press wine.) A heavy-bodied wine, of intense
purple color; decided astringency and acid; flavor, vinous; verj'^ promising; bouquet,
covered by a slight taint of sulphur. The wine dilutes well, but is somewhat harsh.
No. 201. Zinfandel, No. 3, 1884.
From Eggers' Vineyard. A dark j^urple-colored wine of clear condition ; heavy body ;
medium, agreeable acid; high astringency, and pleasant, vinous flavor; dilution with 50
per cent water, very good; 100 per cent, fair; and with 150 per cent, still passable.
No. 203. Zinfandel, No. 12.
From Eggers' Vineyard. Condition, clear; color, intense red; body, heavy; acid and
astringency, high; bouquet, fairly developed, strong Zinfandel. The wine dilutes well.
Zinfandel, 1884.
From R. Barton, Fresno. Condition of sample, clear; color, light garnet. Bouquet is
undeveloped, carbonic acid predominating. Acid low, and somewhat covered by astrin-
gency, which is very good; flavor, vinous, agreeable, and fruity; bodj^, heavy. Wine, after
addition of 50 j^er cent water, is good; with 100 per cent, medium.
68
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70
COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT WINES FROM THE SAME LOCALITY.
Bulletin No. 13, reproduced below, gives an example of the utility of
being enabled to compare the composition of wines from different grape
varieties grown in the same locality, in the same soil, and made into wine
by the same hands and processes. The established reputation of Mr.
Crabb as a wine-maker imparts especial interest to this series; and for
the ascertainment of the relative character of important varieties, it is very
desirable that parallel series from other localities should become available.
Within a year this will be the case as regards the Cupertino locality, in
which, by the liberality of Mr. John T. Doyle, the University experimental
vineyard is located in a manner quite analogous to that of Mr. Crabb:
BULLETIN NO. 13.
Examinations of Red or Claret Wines from Mr. H. W. Crabb, Oakville, Napa County.
In previous bulletins giving the results of the examination of wines (Nos. 6, 9, and 12),
stress has mainly been laid upon the differences shown in the composition of 07ie and the
same kind of grape and wine grown in different localities, the object being to show that
differences so serious may occur between the products of such as differ materially in cli-
mate or soil, or in both, as to render the blends most successfully made in one case totally
inappropriate in others. In the present issue the object is to show the differences in the
composition of wines made from different grape varieties grown in the same locality and
on the same soil, and treated precisely alike by a skilled wine-maker. It will thus appear
what are the characteristic points of each variety, so far as chemical analj^sis can show
them, thus indicating the direction in which proper blends may be sought with- the best
promise of success. It should be fully understood and remembered, that while defects
shown by analysis are perfectl,y definite indications as to the conditions that must be ful-
filled in a successful blend, yet analysis cannot as yet take cognizance of the delicate and
almost intangible flavors or " bouquets," which must likewise be made to harmonize, in
order to satisfy a cultivated palate. To that extent the determination of the proper blends
must always remain with the expert wine taster; but the work of the latter is immensely
facilitated by being informed, through the analysis, of the prominent chemical peculiar-
ities, which ill any case must be taken into consideration, and which ordinarily are left to
laborious and more or less blind guessing and experimenting.
The wines of which the analyses are given below, were made by Mr. H. W. Crabb, of
Oakville, Napa County, from grapes grown by himself, on a soil of remarkable uniformity
over a considerable portion of the Upper Napa VaUey. It is a gray, moderately retentive
loam, easily tilled, although intermixed with a sometimes very considerable proportion of
fragments of a shaly rock that forms the main body of the adjacent hills on the west side
of the valley. The soil is of considerable depth, sometimes several feet without obvious
change, and being then underlaid by a bed of gravel, may be considered naturally well
drained. It is in this respect unlike the somewhat heavier soil, free from stones, that
forms considerable tracts at other points in the region, but has a subsoil of a stiff clay, and
is materially benefited by under-drainage. In chemical composition, the two kinds of
soil are probably not widely different. Mr. Crabb's soil has not been analyzed. A sample
of the other variety from the land of Mr. Wheeler, near Rutherford, shows a very high
supply of potash, a moderate one of lime and of phosphoric acid, and an abundant one of
humus; forming, altogether, a soil of high quality for almost any purpose, but especially
adapted to the vine by its high percentage of potash. The extraordinary crojjs (of twelve
to thirteen tons per acre) sometimes obtained north of St. Helena, grow on a somewhat
lighter soil, of great depth, Init reinarkal)ly well drained by un<lerlyiiig gravel.
All the grapes here mentioned were fully ripe, and were fermented on the skins until the
first active fermentation was over; say from five days to a week, or sometimes more.
71
Analyses of Claret Wines from H. W.
Crabb,
Oakville.
1
4
•S.Q
a o
<s' CD
1 ^
Alcohol.
a
a'
g^
Name of Grape.
td
1
td
<
g
a
IE
s= 2
p' ^
1 p.
Zinf andel
1882
1883
1882
1883
1882
1883
1882
1882
1882
1882
1883
1883
1883
2.310
2.690
2.242
2.690
1.916
2.463
2.181
2.310
2.56
2.56
3.44
2.94
2.99
9.92
10.07
9.92
10.63
8.41
9.78
10.81
9.34
10.81
9.99
9.92
10.44
10.07
12.36
12.55
12.36
13.10
10..50
12.18
13.27
11.65
13.27
12.45
12.36
12.90
12.54
.099
.074
.100
.085
.110
.130
.088
.145
.092
.125
.239
.113
.197
.570
Zinf andel
Mataro* --
.432
.495
Mataro* - . -
.345
.375
Charbono
.420
.375
Crabb's Black Burgundy
.596
Ganiay Teinturier
.555
Pied de Perdrix
.600
Grossblaue
.387
Cabernet Sauvignon of Medoc
.390
Tannat ..-
.397
* It may be as well, before an incorrect pronunciation of this name becomes firmly established, to note that it
should be pronounced with the accent on the last syllable, Mataro, from the town of that name in Catalonia, Spain.
In order to correlate somewhat this interesting series of data heretofore published, it
should be remembered that Crabli's Zinfandels of 1882 and 1883 .showed, in coni]iarison with
those from other localities, a medium body higher than in those from Krug's, a medium
alcoholic strength (average 10.0 by weight); rather low tannin, though more than Krug's
valley wine; and a medium average of acid. In the same connection, it should be kept
ill mind that in French table clarets (the type mostly desired) the average body is about
2 per cent, alcoholic strength 8 to 9 per cent, tannin 18 to 20 pro mille, acid 5 to 6 pro mille.
BODY.
The determination of the solid contents of wine gives the nearest approach to the nu-
merical representation of what is designated as " body " by wine tasters ; yet the sensation
is materially influenced by the presence of other matters, notablj'^ by that of glycerine,
which, other things being equal, is usually most abundant in wines having undergone a
rapid and high fermentation.
The table shows the lightest body of all (1.916) for the Charbono of 1882, and the next
lowest (2.181) for Malbeck of that "year. The Mataro comes next with 2.242, and then
Crabb's Black Burgundy and with 2.310 in the same year. Apart from the Charbono,
whose coarseness will exclude it from all choice blends, these are sample varieties, which
may be expected to form the main body of claret wines in California, as two of thenr
already do in France. From these there is a sudden ascent to the high-bodied Gamay
Teinturier and Pied de Perdrix ; varieties which in more respects than this can be consid-
ered only as materials for blending.
Passing to the vintage of 1883, we iijid, so far as the comparison reaches, a higher body
throughout; the increase being 16.5 per cent for Zinfandel, 10 for Mataro, and over 25 for
Charbono. Taking this into consideration, in out estimate of the comparative percentages,
the Grossblaue still stands far above the Teinturier and Pied de Perdrix as a body-giving
wine ; while the Cabernet and Tannat would stand about on a level with those just named,
and would be classed chiefly as blending material.
ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH.
A cursory glance shows that in this respect, also, the Charbono is the lowest of all (8.41),
while Malbeck and Gamay stand highest (10.81). As regards the Malbeck, this result is
somewhat unexpected. Mataro comes next with 10.63, and Cabernet close to the same.
The rest differ but slightly from the general average of ten per cent by weight, except
that Crabb's BurgundJ^ contrary to expectation, is considerably below, being 9.34 in 1882,
which would place it about 9.50 in 1883.
TANNIN. *
On this essential point the table gives most important and gratifying information. Of
the list, the Zinfandel and the Mataro of 1883, and the Malbeck and Gamay of 1882, alone
range materially below 10 pro mille; while of those ranging above, the Grossblaue stands
highest, with nearly 24 pro mille ; the Tanat next with 19.7 ; Crabb's Burgundy next with
14.5 ; the Charbono and Pied de Perdrix nearly together, 13 and 12.5.
In regard to acid, it is evident that on the whole, that of the wine of 1882 was high; the
Charbono forming an exceiition. Comparing the wines of that year, we find in descending
72
order, four, viz.: Pied de Perdrix, Black Burgundy, Gamay, and Zinfandel, ranging between
5.55 and 6.00 pro mille, with Mataro close up to 5.00. The re.st range mostly between 3.45
and 4.00. It is noticeable that in a year of high acid, Malbeck was so low "that it fails to
dilute well, while Crabb's Burgundy and Zinfandel, as well as the Perdrix, had nearly the
typical 6.00. Gamay has, in the same year, 5.55, and Mataro nearly 5.00. In 1883, a'year
evidently of low acid, all the French varieties represented, except the Charbono, fall liear,
but somewhat below, 4.00 pro mille. It is evident that making allowance for the differ-
ence in vintages, the Burgundy, Gamay, and Pied de Perdrix would, with the Zinfandel,
have remained above 4.00 pro mille in that year, and furnished a fair supply of acid.
In drawing the practical conclusions from the above data, it is painfully apparent how
much the absence of the comparison of at least two vintages throughout the series, impairs
its value. Some of the omissions may still be filled through the courtesy of Mr. Crabb;
but even as the table stands, some very important points may be derived from it.
The most obvious one is, that so far as chemical analysis can determine the matter,
Crabb's Black Burgundy stands nearer to the composition of French clarets than the
wines made from the typical French grapes — Malbeck and Mataro — when grown in the
climate of Napa. Something may be due to the youth of the vines from which the last
named varieties were derived ; but according to the usual assumption, the difference from
that cause should be the other way.
Next in importance is, doubtless, the remarkable quality of the Grossblaue, as a wine
for blending, imparting both body and tannin in a remarkable degree. Adding to this its
low acid, and the fact that the color of this grape is very intense, and of a very desirable
shade, it cannot fail to become of considerable importance for blending purposes. Chem-
ically it would seem to be the very thing for correcting the high acid, low tannin, and low
color Zinfandel wines of the valleys.
A more detailed consideration of other points would render this bulletin too lengthy,
and is reserved for the future; the more as some other series, now in hand, will throw
additional light upon the peculiarities of some of the grape varieties concerned.
Berkeley, August 8, 1884.
The subjoined bulletin presents some additional facts in relation to the
influence of locality upon the composition of wines from various grape
varieties:
BULLETIN No. 21.
Examination of Red Wines from Sonoma and Napa Counties.
We owe to the courtesy of Messrs. J. H. Drummond, of Glen Ellen, and H. A. Pellet, of
St. Helena, the opportunity of comparing w'ith each other, as well as with similar ones
heretofore examined (see Bulletin Iso. 13), the wines of some of the more important and
promising claret grapes of late introduction. Some of these wines were made in small
quantities only, from the crop of 1883, and may, therefore, not represent in every respect
the probable outcome of large scale production hereafter; yet, as to the main points, thej'
are doubtless representative, in so far as a single vintage can be. It should be kept in
mind that in Sonoma, as well as elsewhere in the country north of the bay, the grape crop
of 1883 was seriously affected by the hot June winds, not only shortening the total prod-
uct, but also affecting, more or less, its general quality, especially as regards color, which
was deficient throughout as compared with good years.
In the table below, data previously obtained and reported are placed alongside of those
now communicated. The wines were all sound and-in good condition when received :
CONTKIBUTOK.
Locality.
Grape Variety.
^
Alcohol.
aS
ta
S
a a-
:^
<
in]
g
r*
?
J. H. Drummond -
W. H. Crabb
J. H. Drummond -
W. H. Crabb
J. H. Drummond.
W.H. Crabb
J. H. Drummond.
W. H. Crabb
H. A. Pellet
H. A. Pellet
J. P.Smith
Mr. Denicke
Glen Ellen.
Oakville .-.
Glen P]llen-
Oakville --
Glen Ellen.
Oakville ...
Glen Ellen -
Oakville
St. Helena .
St. Helena .
Livermore
Valley--.
Fresno
Tannat
Tannat '.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cal)ernet Sauvignon
of "Nledoc
Gamay Teinturier ..
Gamay Teinturier -.
I'etite Sirah
Grossblaue
Grossblaue
Carignane
Carignane
Carignane
1883 2.054
1883 2.99
1883 1.85
1883
1883
1882
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
1883
2.94
2.308
2.50
2.60
3.44
2.436
2.181
8.55
10.66
10.07
12.54
7.23
9.00
10.44
12.90
8.84
11.00
10.81
13.27
8.48
10.58
9.92
12.36
10.35
12.85
9.63
12.00
8.48
10.60
8.84
11.00
.175
.197
.093
.113
.147
.092
.090
.239
.250
.162
.063
.073
.484
.397
.472
.390
.495
.555
.430
.387
.398
.525
.677
.678
73
Of the varieties given in the table, the two first — Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon — are
especially noted as producing wines of high quality, the former being the grape entering
mainly into the wines of Madiran and other localities of the Pyrenean region; while the
Cabernet Sauvignon gives its high qualities to the Chateau Lafitte and related wines. It
is curious to note the constant difference caused in both wines here analyzed by the repect-
ive localities, all the figures except those for acid being higher for Oakville than for Glen
Ellen. This recalls the difference in the respective soils, that of Mr. Crabb's vineyard
idji
tinge, and rather heavier than the Oakville soil. Mr. Pellet's soil seems practically iden-
tical with Mr. Crabb's. As regards the figures for Carignane, it must be remembered that
while Mr. Pellet's vines are of considerable age, those from which the Livermore and
Fresno wines were made were only in their third year, and were therefore liable to differ
materially from the older grapes, while agreeing closely among themselves. Considering
first the matter of
" BODY,"
Or solid contents, we find in the Cabernet and Tannat a difference approaching to fifty per
cent in the excess in the Oakville wine over that from Glen Ellen, the latter approaching
more neariy to the figures for " clarets," the former to the Burgundies. In the Teinturier the
difference is materially less, which is the more remarkable, as there is a difference of about
two per cent in the alcoholic contents, the vallej^ wine again being the stronger. They
are, however, of different vintages. The Sirah, from Glen Ellen, also shows a lighter bodj^
than is commonly supposed to belong to that grape. The Grossblaue, from Oakville,
shows a remarkable excess of body over that from Pellet's, although in other respects the
two wines agree closely, and neither offers a suspicion of imperfect fermentation. " Heavy
body " would, therefore, seem to be a prominent characteristic of Mr. Crabb's location.
Pellet's Carignane also has a rather light body.
ALCOHOLIC CONTENTS.
Crabb's wines have throughout a higher alcohol percentage than either Drummond's or
Pellet's. Some of this may be due to personal practice in respect to the ripeness of the
grapes when picked. Yet it is presumable that in 1883, a year of more or less defective
vintage, all allowed their grapes to acquire all the sugar they could. Probably the youth
of Drummond's vines as compared with Oabb's, has here also exerted its influence. Still,
it cannot but be noticed that all the noble grapes on this list (counting out the Teinturier
and Grossblaiie) have given rather a low average of alcohol. This is a pregnant fact in
reference to the prevailing lamentable practice of wine merchants, in gauging the price of
wines purchased sensibly in proportion to their alcoholic strength. So long as this is tol-
erated by producers, ancl strengthened by the addition of sugar to must having less than
the arbitrarily prescribed minimum of 22 of sugar, we shall vainly strive to improve the
quality and reputation of California wines by the introduction and culture of the best
grape Varieties. The wines grown at the rate of ten or twelve tons per acre in the hot val-
leys will carry the daj% .so long as this vicious practice is adhered to.
In the matter of
TANNIN,
The table is very instructive. The high value of the Tannat and Grossblaue as fur-
nishers of tannin, is strikingly shown in the closely concordant results- of the two pairs of
analyses, the average of the Tannat being nearly 1.80 pro mille, that of the Grossblaue
nearly 2.4.5; the Tannat is followed closely, however, by Pellet's Carignane (l.')2), showing
one good reason why the Carignane blends so well with the Zinfandels of Napa, and the
comparison of Pellet's products of older vines with those from three-year old vines of both
Fresno and Livermore, shows very well one of the defects of these firstlings of our young
vineyards, which should be kept well in mind by those blending for the market.
In regard to acid, the Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon show a striking and concordant
difference for the two localities, Oakville showing in each case nearly one pro mille less than
Glen Ellen, and the latter approaching more nearly to the accepted average for clarets,
and rather remarkably nearly alike for the four wines — Tannat, Cabernet, Teinturier, and
Sirah.
The acid percentage for the Grossblaue is almost identical for Crabb and Pellet, and
is rather low, pointing, as heretofore remarked, to its adaptation to blends with the rather
acid Zinfandels with low tannin.
The Carignane shows a rather high acid, and with its high tannin and low body, stands
quite near the Tannat, as grown by Crabb. The marked differences in flavor between
the two wines determine, of course, a difference of adaptation as to blends; but of the
two the Carignane seems to come nearer to " standing on its own feet" as a claret grape
acceptable to the general market.
Altogether, Glen Ellen appears in these comparisons, as a locality adapted to the lighter
and more acid (and, therefore, possil)ly high bouquet) clarets, while the two valley-slope
localities of Napa yield heavier bodied and also more alcoholic and astringent wines. In
74
the latter respect, the slaty soils of the Oakville region seem to differ quite materially from
the properly alluvial soils of St. Helena, and approach those of the hills in the latter
locality.
The discussion of the wines of the Santa Clara Valley, given below,
forms Bulletin 43, to which, however, have been added the analyses of a
number of wines made since its publication:
BULLETIN No. 43.
Analyses of Santa Claea Valley Red Wines.
As it is of great interest to viticulturists to know what is likely to be the prevalent
character of the wines of each region or locality, so as to adapt their blends to the produc-
tion of definite qualities, I give below a table of the analyses of wines from the Santa Clara
Valley made thus far; excluding therefrom some cases in which the wines were either not
sound or manifestly not what they claimed to be, in kind. Some of these analyses have,
of course, been given in previous bulletins and reports, but they are here placed alongside
of later results which complement them, without, however, being as yet suffictently nu-
merous to be finally conclusive.
It is hardly neces^sary to repeat here, as regards the claims of chemical analysis in show-
ing the character of wines for purposes of blending, that analysis can only determine
certain conditions which must be fulfilled in a successful blend ; but cannot speak of the
flavors, which must likewise be harmonized in order to render a wine palatable. The
taster must of necessity be the ultimate arbiter in the premises.
As regards, first (see table below), the Zinfandels, the conclusion previously reached
(see Bulletin No. 12, Zinfandel discussion), that those of the Santa Clara region are of
exceptionally heavy boch/, as compared with those of the Napa and Sonoma valley lands,
is confirmed, viz.: a little over 3 percent, against an average of 2.3 in the latter. The dif-
ference is so great that it strikes the taste at once; and parallel with it runs the always
intense color of the Santa Clara Zinfandels, which seems to exceed, in general, that of any
other region in the State, even where, as in the hill Zinfandels of Napa, Santa Rosa, and
Cloverdale, the Ixidy readies nearly the average of 3 per cent. The alcoholic strength also
reaches an exceptionally high average, that of 13.6 per cent, against 11.3 for all Zinfandels
of Napa and Sonoma, and 13.2 for the hill Zinfandels alone of the latter counties. As
regards tannin, there seems to be a difference between the wines from the deep gravelly
loam lands of the western border of the valley, and those from the dark adobes of the
eastern ; the former showing in two cases quite a high proportion of tannin, while the
Mission San Jos6 wines range rather low. In acid, tlie average of the five Santa Clara Zin-
fandels runs nearly 1 pro mille above the average of eleven from Napa and Sonoma (.630
against .537).
If this comparison be taken as representing approximately the relations of the two
regions to each other as to the product of the Zinfandel vine, it would appear that notwith-
standing its location so near the coast, and more or less under the influence of the Sum-
mer fogs, the Santa Clara Valley represents in most of the above points regions having a
much hotter climate; for its Zinfandels run with those of Stockton and Fresno, and are
more of a Burgundy than of a claret type, save in one particular, viz.: that of acid. The
average of seven Zinfandel wines from the great valley (Stockton and Fresno) is .488 of
acid, against the above, .630, from the Santa Clara Valley.
While tastes may differ as to which of the two is the preferable average, it is well estab-
lished that wines of very heavy body and alcoholic strength acquire a special zest from the
presence of a large projiortion of acid, which in lighter wines would be considered ex-
cessive.
The question naturally arises whether what is true of the Zinfandel holds good also
with other grape varieties ; whether, in other words, there is in the Santa Clara Valley a
general tendency to the above characteristics, that should be taken into account in pro-
portioning the grape varieties intended to produce, e. g., a moderately light table claret,
such as is usually desired by those accustomed to its use.
The data thus far at hand are too scanty to determine this question definitely ; but in
reviewing such as we have, there appears to be reason for the belief that what is true of
the Zinfandel holds also, more or less, as regards other wine grapes now grown in the
Santa Clara Valley.
Taking first the Mataro, we unfortunately have no adequate data of comparing its wines
with those from other localities. But it will be noted that not only in general, but for corre-
sponding vintages and localities, the Mataro has a notably lighter body, as well as lower
alcoholic contents and lower acid than the Zinfandels. It is, therefore, in these resi)ects, a
very proper blend for the heavy Zinfandels, with a view to modifying them for table use;
and, as the two wines are perfectly harmonious in taste, this will doubtless be one of the
prominent blends in the future. B.ut it must he reincmbered that the Mataro carries no
larger prop()rti(jn of tannin than the average Zinfandel, so that where the latter is defi-
cient a third tannin-bearing grape should enter into the coniliination. A glance at the
tannin column above shows that of the varieties represented, the Malbeck and the Char-
bono (from Lefranc and Doyle, West Side) are the ones preeminently adapted to this use,
75
their tannin contents ranf^infr from 17.2 ten thousandtlis to 24.0. The innate and invinci-
ble coarseness of the Cliarbono exckides it from use in tlie better class of blends; but the
MalVjeck is eminently the third ingredient needed, both for tannin and for the modification
of the Zinfandel peculiarities; its character being decided and harmonious, and its acid
low and mild. In the future the Grossblaue, Tannat, and perhaps Crabb's Burgundy will
take their place in the combination to suit the various tastes of consumers. It should be
noted that of all wines in the table the Malbeck shows, from both localities, the heaviest
body (3.61 per cent); it has also a very intense color. In last year's vintage from Folsom,
Malbeck showed only 2.68 of body and 10 ten thousandths of "tannin.
It is instructive to note that Portal's and Pfeffer's Cabernet, which has been claimed as
simply a variety of the Malbeck or Cot, differs remarkably in composition from the true
Malbecks of the valley ; having a much lower body and tannin, so that, however high their
general quality, they cannot take the place of the Malbeck in blends, and in fact them-
selves need the latter or some ecjuivalent, to eke out the tannin. I doubt that their
profitable use will be found to lie m the direction of blends with the Zinfandel, which is
too pronounced in character not to overshadow the delicate qualities of the Cabernets,
whose natural combinations would be rather with the Malbeck, Ploussard, and Merlot for
high quality wines, and with Verdot for the commoner sorts.
The low body, and relatively low alcoholic contents of Grenache a;ld Carignane wines,
seem to justify their use for Zinfandel blends alongside of Mataro, as has been customary ;
the more as tlaeir defects of color will not make any difference in the intensely-tinted Zin-
fandels of the Santa Clara Valley. But both are high in acid, and thus do not modify to
the desirable extent the sharp acidity of the Zinfandel; nor does the latter, to many per-
sons' taste, blend agreeably with the burnt-sugar flavor of the Grenache.
The Trousseau and Malvoisie wines of the valley do not appear to differ materially from
those of other regions, save that, as noted in a former bulletin, the Trousseau seems to be
remarkably low in tannin here, as the Malvoisie is everywhere. The latter is hardly to
be taken into consideration as a material for dry wines in this region. The Trousseau
must evidently, when so used, be blended with other grapes having an adequate astrin-
gency ; while in the great vaUey it seems to be provided with tannin almost as fully as the
Zinfandels.
Berkeley, September 10, 1885.
76
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78
PART III.
RECORD OF WORK IN THE VITICULTURAL LABORATORY
FOR THE SEASON 1884-5.
GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VINTAGE WORK OF 1884.
The volume, and, in a measure, the importance of the work of the season
1884, largely exceeded that of 1883. This was in the main due to the offer
of the Natoma Water and Mining Company, of Natoma, Sacramento
County, to forward to the viticultural laboratory for experimental wine-
making, sample lots of each of about forty varieties of grapes, which had
been imported from Europe two years before, and, having been grafted on
vigorous Mission stocks, and trained long on stakes, were expected to yield
a sufficient crop for a fair wine-making test. Some of these would be fruited
in the State for the first time. As the limited means of the viticultural
laboratory would not have allowed the purchase of the necessary caskage,
the company offered to furnish this also, besides paying, as usual, the
transportation charges. It was agreed that the results of these tests should
be published for the benefit of the public, whenever available.
The plantation is in rather low ground, and the product may, from this
cause, as well as from the youth of the vines, be accounted as not repre-
senting the best result to be expected from each variety.
The grapes were usually (after stemming) crushed as soon as received,
i. e., in from two to three, rarely four days after shipment from the vine-
yard. The quantities being small, it was necessary to keep the tempera-
ture of the fermenting room higher than would have been admissible for
large packages — usually between 67° and 70° F. Under these circum-
stances the fermentations were almost always completed within from seven
to nine days after crushing, as is the case on the large scale. The red
wines were fermented in tubs of appropriate sizes, with floating, unperf orated
covers, leaving about an inch or less of space all around for the escape of
gas, without exposing the pomace to acetification; and twice each day the
whole was thoroughly stirred. The pomace was in all cases pressed, and
the press must or wine united with the first run; and here, again, the wines
do not represent the best possible result, as is well understood. The presses
used were the "Keystone" and the "Americus," and, as the same persons
always did the pressing, it is presumable that the percentages of pomace
given below represent actual differences in the grapes themselves. The
must was in most cases analyzed immediately after pressing, but sometimes
the pressure of work prevented this, and it was omitted.
The after-fermentation of all the red wines at least took place in kegs of
proper size, of from one to ten gallons, in a room kept at all times at from
58° to 60° F.
It would have been impossible to carry out this work successfully with
the aid of the single assistant (Mr. M. E. Jaffa) then employed; but this
difficulty was measurably removed by the offer of Mr. F. Pohndorff, of St.
Helena, the well known and highly esteemed wine expert, to lend his aid
in the way of advice and occasional direct help, and also to send his son,
79
Mr. F. Polindorff, Jr., to serve as a volunteer and special student during the
vintage season. Even with this generous help, the pressure became too
great toward the end, and, upon my suggestion, the State Viticultural Com-
mission agreed to defray, for one month, the salary of a special assistant,
who was secured in the person of Mr. George E. Colby (since appointed
permanently to the position of second assistant in the viticultural labora-
tory.) It thus became possible not only to handle successfully the large
number of wines from single varieties, and blends, made under the advice
of Mr. Pohndorfif, but also to analyze the more important ones in time for
the meeting of the State Viticultural Convention, which occurred during the
first week of December. On that occasion a set of ninety-six wine samples
of the same year's vintage was exhibited on behalf of the viticultural lab-
oratory, and the showing thus made was the direct cause of the recom-
mendation made by that Convention for a material increase in the facilities
for work at the University, that was embodied in the report of a committee
appointed for the purpose of examining the arrangements then existing.
That report, as well as a documentary history of the appropriation made in
pursuance thereof by the Legislature, is appended to this publication.
With such inadequate space and appliances, it was not easy to maintain
perfect order and the best conditions for all the numerous fermentations,
some of which would have required a higher, others a lower temperature
than that which was maintained as adapted to the majority, viz., from
sixty-five to seventy degrees. The result was that a few of the wines
"went wrong," but the great majority were successfully made, and now, a
year from the making, they exhibit very strikingly and favorably the
qualities to be expected of the several grape varieties represented.
The following table shows in summary form the amount and kind of the
work done this season, and the contributions received from various sources:
Contributor.
White
Grapes.
Natoma Water and Mining Company, Natoma
C W. Howard, Lower Lake -
H. A. Pellet, St. Helena
William Scheffler, St. Helena
J. L. Black, Livermore
P. W. Butler, Penryn
E. B. Smith, Martinez ---
J. T. Doyle, Mountain View ,
H. Mel, Glenwood
H. Hagen, Napa
Stern & Rose, San Gabriel
H. Langenberger , Anaheim
Oeorge West, Stockton
L. P. Berger, Lakeport
William Pt'effer, Gubserville
H. W. Crabb, Oakville
E. Barton, Fresno -
22
The wines made were:
Of Claret and Burgundy types - - 36
Dry White, Sauterne, etc - - 19
Ports - 5
Sherries. 7
Total wines of single varieties - 67
80
Grape blends, etc.:
Red, Claret, and Burgundy types - --- 15
Dry White, Sauterne 2
Ports --.- - - 2
Total grape blends -.-- 19
Total win es made _ ..- 86
Wine blends made .-- - - 10
Total samples 96
Most of these samples were tasted by the wine committee of the Viticul-
tural Convention, and the results were published in the report of its pro-
ceedings.
The wines in the University Laboratory storage room were, of course,
duly attended to in the way of racking and filling up, and were repeatedly
tasted, partly by Mr. Pohndorff, and partly by myself, as opportunity
occurred. Toward the Spring of 1885 it became apparent that some of
them were suffering as though from excessive access of air, although care-
fully closed at the bungs, and kept full; and it was found that this arose
from the excessive thinness of the keg staves, which did not average half
an iiich. No better kegs being procurable at the time, it was determined
to give to all a thick coat of pure paraffine, so as to cut off both excessive
evaporation and access of air. This was done, with some difficulty, by the
repeated use of well-heated paraffine, applied with a large, coarse brush.
The application was, however, quite successful in its object. The ullage
was at jonce greatly reduced in amount, and no further increase of the
abnormal condition, viz., increase of improper acids, and other signs of
oxidation, have since appeared. It was, however, determined that for all
future vintages kegs of double thickness should alone be used, in preference,
also, to glass vessels, in which the access of air is too limited, thus placing
the wines under conditions materially different from those obtaining on
the large scale, and also liable to cause frequent loss of the experiment
from bursting, consequent upon, sometimes entirely unexpected, after-
fermentation in closely stoppered demijohns.
In the racking of quantities ranging in most cases from one to five gal-
lons, considerable trouble arises from the difficulty of finding vessels —
whether kegs or glass — which shall exactly contain the quantity of wine
diminished by the removal of "turbids." Thus, a five-gallon keg of must
will, at the first racking, come down to about four and a half gallons; then
at each succeeding racking a progressively diminishing portion will be left
as "turbids," and it becomes impossible to avoid placing a surplusage oyer
even gallons in bottles, half bottles, or vials, as the case may be. Such
bottled samples are ordinarily afterwards used in filling up; but in many
cases the portions bottled at the early stages are found to be so widely dif-
ferent in character from the wines kept in wood, as to render it inexpedient
to mix them. It being inadmissible in these experimental fermentations
to use other wines for filling up, it then becomes necessary to devise some-
thing else that shall fill the space left vacant by evaporation. For this
purpose broken quartz is sometimes used; but finding it difficult to procure
that substance entirely free from admixtures that might possibly influence
the wine, it was decided to use fragments of Folsom granite instead, which
contains no minerals at all affected by the acids of wines. This proves
quite satisfactory, provided the utmost precaution is used in keeping the
broken rock free, not only from dust, but from all contact with odors or
81
laboratory fumes. It is, therefore, kept in close vessels after purification,
first, by treatment with strong acid, then thorough washing, and a final
boiling with clean water, until no trace of odor or other impurity can re-
main. The only effect upon the wines is that from strongly colored ones,
or those losing their color readily, a little color is taken up and remains
fixed. It is therefore necessary to reserve separate portions for use in red
and white wines, in order to avoid coloration of the latter by absorption
from reddened granite.
Of nearly all the wines, samples have also been kept in bottles and vials,
for comparison of the effects of the package on the development of the
wines; and of many, samples were exposed in bottles only partially full, in
order to test their keeping qualities under such circumstances. Nearly all
have been tasted at three successive periods by Mr. Pohndorff as well as by
myself. In the notes given below, the dates as well as the tasters are men-
tioned, and they include, of course, such portions of the report of the wine
committee of the late Viticultural Convention as refer to the same wines.
In order to render the results more generally useful in guiding the choice
for planting, I place at the beginning of each statement an abstract of the
main points of interest in connection with the culture of the several grapes,
largely from the (French) work on the vines of France, by Mas & Pulliat;
also the notes furnished by the Natoma Company concerning the habit of
the vine, as observed at Folsom, with such remarks as were suggested by
the comparison with the figures and descriptions of the French types.
LIST OF GRAPES RECEIVED AT THE VITICULTURAL LABORATORY, 1884.
Place of Production.
211
212
213
214
215
216
217
218
219
220
221
222
223
224
225
226
227
228
229
230
231
232
233
234
235
236
237
238
239
240
241
242
243
244
Red Wine
Malbeck -
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Sauvignon..
Merlot
Verdot
Tannat
Beclan
Carignane
Grossblaue
Black Burgundy
Black Pinot
Meunier
Meunier.--
Zinf andel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Trousseau
Trousseau
Petite Sirah
Petite Sirah
Serine :
Mondeuse
Mondeuse
Cinsaut
Aramon .--
Mourastel
Grenache
Grenache
Petit Bouschet
Petit Bouschet
Claire tte Rouge
6"
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Wm. Pfeffer
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
H. W. Crabb
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
H. A. Pellet -..
H. W. Crabb
L. P. Berger
Wm. SchefHer
H. Mel --
Ch. Webb Howard.
J. L. Black...
P. W. Butler
E. B. Smith
Natoma Company .
Geo. West
Wm. Pfeffer
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Wm. Pfeflfer
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma.
Natoma.
-Gubserville.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Oakville.
Natoma.
Natoma.
.-St. Helena.
Oakville.
... Lakeport.
.-St. Helena.
. . Glenwood.
Lower Lake.
.. Livermore.
Penryn.
... Martinez.
. Natoma.
... Stockton.
.Gubserville.
1.-- Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
-Gubserville.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
82
List of Grapes Received, Etc. — Continued.
Place of Production.
245
246
247
248
249
250
251
252
253
254
255
256
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
265
266
267
268
269
270
271
272
273
274
275
276
277
278
279
280
281
282
283
Barbera
Lenoir
Lenoir
Biau-Elbling .
Mission
Black Prince .
Dry White Wine.
Semillon
Semillon
Sauvignon, bl --.
Sauvignon , bl
Sauvignon, bl
Muscadelle du Bordelais (loose
bunches)
Muscadelle du Bordelais (compact
bunches) - ---
Folle Blanche, "Tannat"
Folle Blanche
Burger
Burger
Housanne
Marsanne
Clairette Blanche
"Pecoui Touar "(?) -
Sherry and Madeira.
Pedro Jimenes
Palomino -
Per uno
Mantuo de Pilas
Mourisco bianco - - -
Beba
Verdelho
Boal Madeira
Ugni blanc
Malmsey -
Malaga. ." - .
Port Wine.
TintaCao ---
Tinta Madeira
Mourisco Preto
Tinta Amarella (not fully ripe).
Tinta Amarella (fully ripe)
Moretto
Bastardo. - ---
J. T. Doyle
H. Hagen
H. Langenberger.
Stern & Rose
Gov. Stanford
P. W. Butler
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
.1. L. Black
Stern & Rose
R. Barton.
Natoma Company
Natoma Company ,
Natoma Company ,
Natoma Company
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company ,
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
Natoma Company .
P. W.Butler.-..'.
Natoma
Natoma
Natoma
Natoma
Natoma
Natoma
Natoma
Comjiany .
Company .
Company .
Company .
Company .
Company .
Company .
.. Cupertino.
Napa.
...Anaheim.
San Gabriel.
Vina.
Penryn.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
- Livermore.
San Gabriel.
Fresno.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
, Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
- Penryn.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
83
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GRAPES RECEIVED AND WINES
MADE, WITH ANALYSES OF MUSTS AND WINES.
A.— RED WINES.
Note. — The classification of grapes and wines here given is made for convenience of
reference, in accordance with the most usual or most prominent characters; but of course
is not absolute, since one and the same grape may, according to climate, location, and
treatment, be made to yield a great variety of wines.
1. Bordeaux or Claret Type.
No. 211. Malheck.
The general character and uses of the Malbeck are sufficiently well
understood in California to render any elaborate recapitulation unneces-
sary. It is one of the most widely cultivated grape varieties of France,
where it forms more especially the basis of a large proportion of the wines
of the Bordeaux type. Its best qualities seem to be developed in the
western departments, within reach of the tempering influence of the
Atlantic Ocean. Considering the importance attached to the Malbeck in
France, it is rather remarkable that its culture should have received so
little attention thus far in California, where it has nevertheless been the
especial desire to emulate the Medoc wines. This is doubtless largely due
to the fact that this variety is but a very light bearer under the short-
pruning system, which, for many reasons, has thus far been almost uni-
versally prevalent. But now that a large number of other indispensable
long-pruners is being introduced, the Malbeck, with the Cabernets, must
take its place here, as in France, among the mos-t important claret varie-
ties ; furn,ishing, apart from its characteristic and well known " Bordeaux"
flavor, abtmdance of color, tannin, and body. In its use for blending, the
fact that it seems to ripen proportion-ately somewhat earlier than in France,
must be considered.
The largest area of Malbeck in the State, thus far, is probably to be
found at the New Almaden vineyard of Mr. Charles Lefranc.
From Natoma it is reported to be a light bearer of good vigor ; bunches
small and loose; ripens during the first week of September. The grapes
arrived in good condition on September sixth, and were worked up the fol-
lowing day. The amount of sugar was 21.33 per cent. Fermentation of
84.9 pounds crushed began on the morning of September tenth, at a tem-
perature of 71.6° F. It reached its maximum temperature of 81.5° F. (tem-
perature of the room, 71° F.,) on the morning of September eleventh, then very
gradually fell to the cellar temperature (68° F.) on September sixteenth,
when the murk was drawn off ten days from the crushing, the yield from
the above amount being 6.7 gallons, or at the rate of 158 gallons per ton;
pomace 14.57 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees the first time on October twenty-
second; again racked November thirteenth ; again racked February twenty-
seventh.
RECORD OF TASTING.
[Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884.]
Malbeck having matured at the Natoma Vineya,rds on the seventh of September, while
Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Verdot grapes were ripe on the twentieth, and Cabernet Sau-
vignon on the twenty-ninth of September, the utilization in blends, on the programme
at the University, of different Medoc varieties for closer composition according to the
84
Bordeaux methods was out of the question, and thus a more determinate trial in that
style was not made. But all doubts as to the success, in regard to the quality, from these
grapes in California vineyards are overcome. While at Natoma the bearing power of all
is so far only very moderate.
Mr. Drum'mond states that at Glen Ellen Malbeck is pretty prolific. Possibly better
success as to quantity may be attained in different regions of the State with these varie-
ties, which will be very important ones for our vineyards.
Samples not present" at the Convention, but known to two members of the committee,
of Malbeck of 1883, of J. T. Doyle, and another of 1882, of Crabb, the latter kept in a bottle
half full for six months at the University, had preserved their color in all its beauty, and
remained fully sound and in perfect state of preservation, the older one well developed.
The same was the case with a half full bottle of Tannat of 1883, grown by Mr. Crabb, in
which the color was deep ruby, not in the least weakened. These proofs of the keeping
qualities of these varieties it may be opportune to state. It may be well to state here, also,
that samples not exhibited at the Convention, but subsequent to that occasion, came before
one of the committee. Malbeck of 1881, of Lefranc, and another of the same, of a vintage
twelve years back of wine of that grape, as well as another of three years of another Santa
Clara County Malbeck, prove irrefragably the excellent keeping power of the color of that
wine, and a beautifully rounded mellowness in their taste. But the examination of those
samples equally confirmed that, far from being up to the mark as to agreeableness for a
direct drinking wine, its great qualities for addition to and characterizing other Medoc
variety wines, are manifest; and that, in fact, an intelligent proportioning of such addi-
tion is an indispensable requirement.
Malbeck Nos. 172, 139 (this number is deficient in astringency), U. 211, of the 1881 vint-
age No. 133, and of 1882 No. 134, represented this variety direct. The qualities desired
and expected were best expressed ni No. 172 from Mountain View, while the other two
numbers were found of nice quality, proving the success that grape will have in our vine-
yards.
IT. 309. Four parts Malbeck with one part of Petite Sirah, is a combination which seems
it will have to be discarded, proving that Malbeck needs no addition, but is a welcome and
highly useful addition in that grape.
ANALYSES.
Natoma Com-
pany, Natoma.
Cli. Lefranc,
New Almadeu
Vineyard.
Must.
Sugar by spindle.
Acid.
Wine.
Body
Tannin —
Acid
Ash
20.94
.61
10.42
8.34
2.68
.10
.45
.39
12.45
9.99
3.62
.05
.59
.25
CABERNET FRANC.
The Cabernet Franc occupies a prominent place as one of the standard
wine grapes of the Bordeaux region. It is a vigorous and hardy vine, which,
wherever it is grown in a suitable soil, yields wines of high and delicate
bouquet and of excellent keeping qualities. This characteristic bouquet
is due to a peculiar flavor of the grape, which is maintained under the
most diverse conditions of growth; while the grape-stems, highly charged
with tannin, yield abundance of the latter substance, so as sometimes to
render it desirable to exclude them from the vat. The berries resist rains
and moisture remarkably well, so that they can be fully matured without
fear of injury. Such full maturity, necessary for the production of the
" great wines," can only be attained in climates at least as warm as that of
Bordeaux, it being a grape of the second epoch of ripening.
The Cabernet succeeds especially in dry and stony soils, in which vari-
eties of less vigorous habits could not prosper. In deep and rich soils it
85
runs to wood, and its berries lose largely their quality. It is a shy bearer,
and must always be pruned long.
At Natoma, the Cabernet Franc showed fair vigor, and although a light
bearer it was somewhat more prolific than Cabernet Sauvignon, and ripened
a few days earlier. The grapes were gathered, fairly ripe, on September
eighteenth, and again, more fully matured, on September twenty-third.
The last invoice was mainly used for blends, the first being made into wine
by itself. The grapes were quite acid to the taste, and not very juicy, with
a peculiar, faintly " foxy" aroma, and no very prominent astringency ; the
must showed only 19.9 per cent of sugar.
The fermentation of 121.2 pounds, crushed on September twentieth, began
on September twenty-second, and reached its maximum next morning at a
temperature of 82.4° F.; then gradually fell to the cellar temperature on
September twenty-seventh, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from
the crushing; showing a remarkably good and regular fermentation. The
yield was 9.5 gallons, or at the rate of 156.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 10.3
per cent. The young wine was racked from the lees on November four-
teenth, showing a clear, almost bright condition.
RECORD OF TASTINGf.
November I4.. (Pohndorff.) Color, medium deep; taste showing a superabundance of
vinous acids, proving that the grape should be combined with other varieties, but charac-
ter excellent, with a pronounced, peculiar aroma.
First week of December, ISS4. Report of Viticultural Convention Committee:
Cabernet Franc, U. 212, gives evidence of the well known meritorious qualities of its
grapes. Its combination (U. 310), with one third Grossblaue, has a certain degree of
harshness which indicates a too heavy proportion of the latter grape, while U. 60, having
with 15 per cent of Grossblaue and 10 per cent of Black Prince and 15 per cent of Folle
Blanche to 60 per cent of Cabernet Franc, proves to be quite distinct and advantageously
combined.
This blend, however, showed the defect of taste, and smell of sulphur, which was caused
by this latter substance having been too freely put on the Cabernet Franc grapes in the
vineyard, and notwithstanding the repeated 'washing of these grapes at the University
laboratory, to free them from the adhering sulphur, the smell and taste had entered into
the wine.' This instance may teach that a very scrupulous handling of the delicate Medoc
variety vines is indispensable.
U. No. 311, having to *34 per cent of Cabernet Franc, 9 per cent of Grossblaue, 9 of Folle
Blanche, and 18 of Carignane (the latter grapes having imparted a slightly mouldy taste to
the blend, impaired thereby in its frank impression), seemed also measurably harmonious,
showing that it is desirable to study the proijer combination of these varieties in different
proportions.
IT. blend. No. 312, not noted in the catalogue, consisting of ^ Petit Sirah and § of Caber-
net Franc, is a successful combination.
February 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Cabernet Franc in a four-gallon keg "is well advanced in
its development, and shows the characteristic grand perfume of its variety; has dep-
urated itself particularly well, but luis felt the adverse circumstances due to the thinness
of the staves. Comparing the hardiness of the Cabernet Franc wine with that from the
Cab. Sauvignon, the Natoma samples prove the latter to be the more stable one. A
sample of Cab. Franc in bottle on some lees, has developed beautifully, its taste being
frank and expressive, body good, and color well preserved.
April 29. (E. W. H.) The condition of the wine is bright, color fine, although only
moderately intense; bouquet developing slowly, but the peculiar flavor of the grape well
pronounced, together with a markedly smooth, agreeable, vinous taste. A sample pre-
served in a bottle since February is more harsh in taste, but bouquet better developed.
It should be noted that the Cab. Franc has thus shown here all the qualities attributed
to it in France, including that of the hardiness of the grape itself, which remained sound
for several weeks, stored on shelves in the basement.
86
ANALYSES.
3fust
Sugar by spindle
Acid
Wine
Ai„^i,^i (Volume
Alcohol: {^gjgj^^
Body -
Tannin .- -.
Acid ---
Ash
No. '212.
1884.
Natoma Co.
No. 213.
1884.
W. Pfeffer.
No. 292.
1885.
W. Pfeffer.
20.62
.62
12.00
9.63
2.84
.04
.48
.43
22.43
.77
10.58
8.48
2.13
.07
.61
.29
22.15
.82
.18
.73
.35
No. 294.
1885.
L.D. Combe.
21.49
1.04
ll.OO
8.86
2.99
.12
.85
.27
No. 213. Cabernet Franc. (Wm. Pfeffer.) Bunches were somewhat
bruised when received. The grapes were worked on October 21, 1884, show-
ing 21.39 per cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 13.2 pounds crushed began during the morning of Octo-
ber 22, 1884, reached its maximum the next morning at a temperature of
72.5° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), where it stood for about forty-eight
hours, then slowly fell to the temperature of the cellar (65.3° F.), on Octo-
ber 28, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing.
The yield from the above amount being .978 gallons, or at the rate of 148.10
gallons per ton; pomace, 11.25 per cent.
On November 7, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again racked
November 25, 1884; again racked February 20, 1885, and lastly in August
following, and analysis was made April 3, 1885.
RECCED OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Commission Committee, December, 1884. A sample of Cabernet
Franc of Wm. Pfeifer, Santa Clara County, shows excellent qualities, and is of a velvety
pleasant taste.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON.
The Cabernet Saimgnon is closely related to the Cabernet Franc, and
greatly resembles it in most respects; it ripens a few days earlier, and is
quite as good a keeper; its wine has a peculiar body and a great deal of
bouquet and perfume ; its color is somewhat deeper than that of the Cab-
ernet Franc. The wine is fully as good a keeper as the latter, and matures
a little more slowly, generally requiring one year more in the cask before
bottling.
The Cabernet Sauvignon enters in a very large proportion of the wines
of Lafitte, Mouton, Latour, Leoville, and most of the "Grands Crus." A
soil of gravel mingled with clayey sand is that in which this vine prospers
most; in marly soils it produces but little. It bears chiefly on the upper
ends of the canes,, hence requires long pruning; and in order to counteract
the tendency to fruiting on the ends only, the canes are bent in training on
trellises. The berries, which are rather small, are quite thick skinned, and
have the peculiar flavor of all Cabernet varieties. They ripen somewhat
late in the second epoch.
From Natoma the Cabernet Sauvignon is reported to be of fair vigor, and
a light bearer. The grapes were gathered on September twenty-fourth,
fully ripe; they were received in good condition at the University, and cor-
responded accurately to the description, also as regards the differences
87
from the Cabernet Franc, the latter having looser bunches and smaller
berries, and a more decided flavor.
The fermentation of 84.5 pomids, crushed September twenty-fifth, and
showing 23.14 per cent of sugar, began on the morning of the twenty-
seventh at 66.2° F.; reached its maximum of 73.4° F. on September twenty-
ninth, the temperature of the room being 70° F. at the time, then fell slowly
to the cellar temperature on October fourth, when the murk was drawn off,
nine days from the crushing. Yield from the above amount, 6.5 gallons,
corresponding to 153 gallons per ton; pomace, 17.2 per cent, being the largest
of all the red grapes worked. It will be noted that the fermentation started
very promptly, but progressed slowly, though steadily, the temperature ris-
ing but a few degrees above that of the cellar. The young wine was racked
from the lees on November fourteenth, and again on March second.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 14, I884. (Pohndorff.) Excellent; of deep ruby color, and clean taste, though
slightly affected by the sulphuring of the grapes.
First week of December. Report of Viticultural Convention Committee. (No record
regarding the above pure sample.)
A sample of Cabernet Sauvignon, U. No. 214, of Pfeffer, Santa Clara County, shows excel-
lent qualities, and is of a velvety pleasant taste.
Blend U. 314, Cabernet Sauvignon with Grossblaue, is inferior to No. 14, while blend
U. 313, Cabernet Sauvignon with Mourastel and Carignane, although the latter grape has
imparted to it a taste of mould, showed distinctly the adaptability of this combination,
which it would be well to continue trying in different proportions of the ingredients.
February 9, 1SS5. (Pohndorff".) Wine in a four-gallon keg is well preserved; notwith-
standing the thin staves, it is unimpared in quality, and confirms the fine keeping qual-
ities of the wine, or at least its easy handling in its first youth. Development very good,
but compared with that in the vial (see below) is backward.
Sample in one-gallon keg is equally well preserved, and unaffected by the still greater
thinness of the keg staves, allowing too easy evaporation and oxidation.
A bottle of the same, which on November fourteenth had thrown out the cork, was kept
without filling up. Taste still sound, flavor characteristic, and color good.
A small remnant in a vial, only about one fifth full, since November fourteenth, has stood
this heavy test of its stability remarkably well ; color, good ; taste, frank and very pleas-
ant; flavor, very expressive.
April twenty-ninth. (E. W. H.) Condition, bright; color, more intense than that of the
Cabernet Franc, but bouquet less developed, and wine altogether less smooth to the taste.
The table below gives results of the chemical analyses of the above and two other wines,
which were made at the end of November, after the first racking:
Variety.
Must.
Wine.
No.
'< a.
>
0 2.
H
1 *^
>
2,2;
^£
s ^
1 §■
«
o
c
<
>
1 ^
>
P
5'
>-
2.
'>^p<
Verdot
Sept. 20
Sept. 20
Sept. 20
Sept. 26
23.040
20.660
20.620
22.670
.656
.472
.619
.462
.517
.498
.384
.495
2.765
2.435
9.780
9.200
9.630
9.920
11.820
11.420
.071
.065
.438
^is
Merlot
,467
212
214
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Sauvignon.
2.
3.
340
190
i;
i.OOO
2.360
335
379
.480
.540
It will be noted that the differences here shown between the two Caber-
nets fall in the direction usually caused by difference in ripeness; one
having been gathered three days before the other and crushed six days
before. Probably the high acid and low tannin and sugar of the first are
partly, at least, due to this cause.
Being light bearers of fruit, with a low yield of must, but producing deli-
cate wines of high quality, the two varieties will naturally be chosen chiefly
by those who make a specialty of high grade wines.
Of the two other varieties, the Verdot ranges closely with the Cabernets
in all respects, while the Merlot shows its lighter character both in body
and alcoholic strength; entirely in accord with its reputation in France.
Its uneven maturing as above noted may account for its inferiority to the
Verdot in the kind and amount of bouquet.
MERLOT.
Like the Verdot, the Merlot is altogether a grape of the Bordeaux region,
and is planted as well as blended more or less with the better qualities of
wines, especially the Cabernets. It matures earlier than the latter, and is,
therefore, planted on northern exposures in order to retard maturity. The
very dark-tinted grape is very sweet and agreeable, but very delicate, and
must be gathered as soon as ripe; the wine, also, is delicate, lighter than
those of the Cabernets, and matures more quickly but does not attain as
high quality. It is pruned more or less long according to the vigor of the
\dne, which is quite productive.
From Natoma the Merlot is reported to be a light bearer, of fair vigor,
medium ripening. The grapes were in good condition when received, Sep-
tember twentieth, and corresponded accurately to the type figure, but were
unevenly ripened, rather insipid, thick-skinned, and not very juicy.
Fermentation of the 50.6 pounds received September twentieth, and
crushed the same day, began on the evening of September twenty-second,
at the temperature of 69.8° F., and reached its maximum temperature of
75.2° F. the next morning, remaining thus for about twenty-four hours, then
gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 68° F., on September twenty-
seventh, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing,
showing a quick and energetic fermentation. The yield from the above
amount was 4.03 gallons, or at the rate of 159.3 gallons per ton; pomace,
14.35 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November twenty-fifth, but
there is no record of its having been tasted at the time.
For Viticultural Convention Committee report on the same, see below
under Verdot.
RECORD OF TASTING.
February 0,1885. (Pohndorff.) Sample in three-gallon keg: color, somewhat faded; taste,
characteristic; development, tardy; no injury from thin staves.
Sample in vial: good color and proper development; good clean taste.
A'pril 10,1885. (E. W. H.) Condition, bright; color, light red, apparently still more
faded ; faint, but agreeable bouquet; acid and astringency moderate, but well proportioned.
Good, but decidedly inferior to Verdot. Like the latter, it does not dilute well.
In judging of the relative merits of Verdot and Merlot from Folsom, it should not be
forgotten that, while the former found there its habitual location in low ground, the latter,
adapted to the hilly lands, was somewhat out of its place.
For analysis, see table under Cabernet Sauvignon.
VERDOT.
The Verdot belongs exclusively to the vineyards of the Bordeaux region,
and is there cultivated in the low grounds, in whose strong, clayey soils
this grape yields better products than any other. It is the latest ripening
grape of the region, and is, on that account, always gathered and treated
by itself. It is only moderately productive, and is therefore mostly pruned
long, although it does not resent short pruning. In its propagation the
strongest wood should be carefully selected. The Verdot wine is a good
keeper, and is especially esteemed for export.
From Natoma the Verdot is reported to be of medium vigor and a light
bearer. Its bunches were considerably more compact than in the figure
given in French works. Tliis was found to be very generally the case in
the varieties sent from Natoma and is probably attributable to the youth
of the vines. In other respects the grape tallied well with the description.
Its maturity, however, was much earlier than reported from France, as it
was gathered September eighteenth, about the middle of the vintage of last
year, and was at the time fully ripe. It was thus earlier than the Beclan,
Cinsaut, Cabernet Sauvignon, and others that in France precede it, and
simultaneous with Cabernet Franc, Sirah, and Petit Bouschet. This is
the more remarkable as it was grafted on the stock of a late variety, the
Mission. Quite a number of parallel cases may be noted in the series of
Natoma grapes ; and others are known to occur among our more common
varieties. It is thus obvious that many grape blends not practicable in
France may be perfectly feasible . with us, especially when the differences
in the time of ripening that may result from grafting upon the various
resistant stocks (referred to in Bulletin No. 34) are duly utilized.
The grapes received on September twentieth were crushed the same day,
and fermentation began on the evening of September twenty-second ;
reached its maximum temperature of 78.8° F. on the morning of Septem-
ber twenty-third, then fell very gradually to the cellar temperature of 68°
F. on the twenty-seventh, eight days from the crushing, when the murk
was drawn off, the yield from the above amount being seven and a half
gallons, or at the rate of 158.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 12.0 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November fifteenth. Its
condition at the time was clear; color, intense purple.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 13, 1834- (PohndorfF.) Good in color and taste, slight contamination of sulphur
from grapes.
November IS. (E. W. H.) Heavy body; astringency rather light; a fruity flavor, promis-
ing high quality ; acid, agreeable.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December 17. Verdot, U. 21(5, shows success-
fully the fine qualities of the variety, which will necessarily form part of the plantations
where the other Medoc varieties are to be grown. The same is true of Merlot, U. 215.
February 9, 1S85. (Pohndorff.) Fine color, not very deep; taste much superior to that
of Merlot, but has suffered slightly from the thinness of the keg staves.
April 9, 18S5. (E. W. H.) The condition of the wine is bright, the color unchanged in
quality and intensity. The bouquet has developed decidedly, promising a high quality
claret with an agreeable fruitiness. It does not dilute well; with 50 per cent of water its
quality is almost lost.
Sample from a vial which hax stood half full since February twenty-fifth: The bouquet has
developed decidedly by oxidation, and the astringency appears increased through the
acquisition of slight bitterish taste; the acid also has increased somewhat, but there is no
perceptible acetification. The wine has thus resisted the six weeks' exposure very well
confirming the keeping qualities attributed to it in France.
Personally, the writer is a good deal impressed with the qualities of the Verdot wine as
resulting from its culture at Folsom; but the light production of the vine and the low
percentage of juice n)ust not be forgotten.
For an analysis see table under Cabernet Sauvignon.
TANNAT.
The Tannat, properly so called, belongs to a very restricted area in the
French Pyrenees, it being the most noted \dne of the Madiran region, where
it is associated with the Mansenc and Bouchy in the production of the
high grade red wines. It is a vigorous and productive vine, and is always
pruned long, whether on high stakes or trellises. The conico-cylindrical,
strongly-shouldered bunches are rather large and close; the berries round,
medium-sized; they assume a fine black tint, when ripe, and are very rich
in coloring matter and tannin; very sweet, but somewhat astringent.
90
There is no doubt of the authenticity of the Tannat grape grown by Mr.
Crabb, of Oakville, and Mr. Drummond, of Glen Ellen. Wines of the
vintage of 1883 were received from both; and in 1884 a small lot of grapes
was sent by the former, and made into wine at the University Laboratory.
All were deeply tinted, and markedly but pleasantly astringent, with less
of the roughness noted in other wines of similar tannin contents.
TANNAT WINES.
Locality.
3'
Residue by Spin-
dle
Alcohol.
^
>
» 2.
Contributor.
a
f
<
P
3'
1 c
J. H. Drummond -
H. W. Crabb
Glen Ellen
Oakville •-
1883
1883
2.05
2.99
2.69
8.55
10.07
7.46
10.66
12.54
.175
.197
.484
.397
H.W. Crabb---
Oakville
1884
8.92
171
.033
The prominent fact indicated by the above analyses is the large propor-
tion of tannin shown by these wines, in the wet and cool season of 1884,
when alcoholic contents were unusually low, as well as in the preceding
dry season, when Crabb's wine rose to 12.5 per cent, while Drummond's
still remained a light wine, in accordance M'ith the original mountain
character of the grape. Even apart from differences in quality, the uses
of the Tannat thus differ markedly from those of the Lenoir, which, with
an equally intense color, yielded in 1884 only from about one third as
much tannin as the Tannat.
It must be presumed that the best locations of the Tannat for high
quality will be the higher foothills, and the northern part of the State
generally. But the composition of Crabb's valley wine indicates plainly
that it will be extremely useful elsewhere also.
Ko. 82. Tannat. From H. W. Crabb, Oakville. Grapes were nearly
all damaged; it was with the greatest difficulty that 7.92 pounds were
picked out. All the grapes were carefully washed, still the ivine tasted
mouldy. The grapes were v/orked on October 21, 1884, and showed 21.15
per cent of sugar. Fermentation of the 7.92 pounds crushed began on the
morning of October twenty-second and at a temperature of 66.2° F., and
reached its maximum of 68° F. the next morning (temperature of cellar,
64.4° F.), where it remained during the next forty -eight hours, and then
gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar, 65° F., on October twenty-
seventh, when the murk was drawn off, six days from the crushing. The
yield from the above amount was half a gallon. On November 3, 1884, the
young wine was racked from the lees; again racked on November twentieth,
perfectly bright, and analyzed November twenty-second ; again racked April
twentieth; again racked in the Fall.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Repm-t of ViticuUural Convention Committee, December, 1S84- Tannat. No. 7 of Glen Ellen,
196 of Oakville. No. 194 ditto of 1883. U. 315 of Oakville grapes. Unhesitatingly this variety
deserves the greatest attention on the part of California growers, since the product, from
the small amount of vines thus far planted, shows excellent success. It is one of the
wines of deepest color, combined with a harmonious astringency, and unexceptionable
taste. It is useful and character-giving in blends, both with inferior and higher class
varieties.
It is our opinion that this valuable variety, in locations where it can be successfully
grown, should be propagated in proper proportions, as it has x^roved thus far to be both
prolific and productive of a high quality wine in California.
91
BEOLAN.
The Beclan occupies rather a restricted area, chiefly in some of the vine-
yards of the Jura, where, however, it does not seem to he greatly appre-
ciated. It succeeds admirably and yields excellent results in the granitic
soils of the Beaujolais, northward of 'Lyon, and is highly recommended as
yielding a deeply colored wine of high quality, agreeable, and keeping well.
The vine is fairly vigorous, and resists diseases well, but should have a
deep and strong soil. Though adapted to short pruning, it yields a larger
product when long-pruned. The grape, which is rather small and some-
what thick-skinned, matures toward the beginning of the third epoch; is
not easily affected by moisture.
We have no report from Natoma as to the vigor and productiveness of this
vine. The grapes were gathered on the twenty-fifth of September, and when
received were in good condition and fully ripe; taste agreeable, subacid,
and very sweet. The bunches correspond well in form with the French
type, but the berries were rather smaller and more closely packed.
The fermentation of 80.1 pounds crushed on September twenty-sixth
began on the morning of the twenty-eighth, reached its maximum of 76.1°
F. on the evening of the twenty-ninth, then gradually fell to the cellar
temperature on October third, when the murk was drawn off, eight days
from the crushing ; the yield being 6.5 gallons from the above amovmt, or
at the rate of 161.7 gallons per ton; pomace, 12.3 per cent.
The young wine, which seemed to clear itself very rapidly, was racked
from the first lees on October seventeenth, then again on November twelfth,
when taking a sample for the Viticultural Convention.
KECOED OF TASTING.
November 11,1884. (Pohndorff.) Color somewhat faded, but good ; expression, fine; fruity.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, first week of December :
Beclan. U. No. 218. The color of this wine is of fine ruby hue and great density; its
astringency considerable and well proportioned ; its mild, light, oily, fully vinous expres-
sion placing it on a level in regard to quality with Cinsaut. The Beclan partakes of a
character midway between Burgundy and Medoc types, and may be useful in blends, as it
is desirable for direct drinking.
February 9,1885. (Pohndorff.) Sample in four-gallon keg; color, deep ruby; develop-
ment, backward ; taste, too fresh, but indicative of good expression.
Blend of one third Beclan and two thirds Petit Bouschet, in full bottle, had cleared
itself very well; its taste frank and good; an excellent type of a table wme. It should be
noted that this was a sample of " turbids," left at the end of November last with an exces-
sive proportion of lees in it; yet, tlie latter had not in the least affected the clean taste and
flavor of the wine, showing this tj'pe to be very easy to handle in the cellar.
April 9, 1885. (E. W. H.) The condition of the wine is bright, the color being of an
intense purplish red. The bouquet is faint as yet, but very agreeable; the flavor vinous;
the acid and astringency fair in amount, and agreeable. The wine dilutes remarkably
well, both as to color and taste.
April 27. (Pohndorff") An excellent wine of great promise.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - 20.92
Acid-..-.- 44
Wine.
., ,,.( Volume -- 11.00
Alcohol: { ^^i ,^^ 8.81
Body 2.64
Tannin - .05
Acid 38
Ash - - 26
92
CARIGNANE.
The Carignane has found considerable acceptance in this State, especially
as a useful blend for Zinfandel. It has been found very satisfactorily pro-
ductive under the short-pruning system, and seems to adapt itself well to
a great variety of soils. Its reputation in France, of producing not a very
high quality, but an abundant quantity of good medium quality wine,
seems to be sustained in California thus far.
From Natoma it is reported to be a large bearer with good vigor, having
large and compact bunches. Time of ripening is the first week in October.
This variety was received in good condition, and was worked on October
fourth, showing 19.03 per cent of sugar. Fermentation of 36.3 pounds
crushed began on the morning of October 6, 1884, at a temperature of 69.8°
F. and reached its maximum during the next morning at a temperature of
74.3° F. (temperature of the cellar, 67° F.), then slowly fell to the tempera-
ture of the cellar (67°) on October thirteenth, when the murk was drawn
off, nine days from the crushing, the yield from the above amount being
3.01 gallons, or at the rate of 161.3 gallons per ton; pomace, 12.8 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; again racked
November seventh; again on November twenty -fourth; again racked April
twenty-second, and lastly in August, 1885.
Wine was analyzed February 6, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
February 6, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) The condition of the sample is clear, but color is very
poor; bouquet present, though impaired greatly by the mouldy odor; body and astrin-
gency, medium.
ANALYSIS.
Natoma
Co.,
Natoma.
Sugar by spindle .
Acid
Must.
Alcohol: {^g.gj^^
Body
Tannin
Acid
Ash
Wine.
Volume.-
19.56
.59
9.90
7.92
2.18
.06
.53
.29
GROSSBLAUE.
The Grossblaue, more commonly known as Kolner, is cultivated chiefly
in southeastern Europe, in Styria, Croatia, and Hungary. It imparts its
character more especially to the wines of the former two countries, where
it is used for the table as well. Its handsome large bunches and berries
render it acceptable in the latter respect. It is a hardy vine, even as
regards damage from frost during bloom; is mostly pruned long, and even
allowed to run over trees and hedges, and is a prolific bearer. Curiously
enough, it is reported as yielding a wine lacking cfclor and body, while in
California, at least in the Napa Valley, the deep tint of its wine and heavy
body are among its recommendations; next to the unusual percentage of
93
tannin — which in 1883 ranged from 2.4 to 2.5 pro mille — being higher than
any other similarly fermented in that valley. This remarkable difference
would almost lead to the suspicion that there is some error in the deter-
mination of the variety. At any rate, the grape, as grown by Crabb and
Pellet, is eminently adapted to blends needing color and tannin, while it
cannot be considered of high quality in other respects, being somewhat
coarse in flavor, yet very much preferable to the Charbono, being less pro-
nounced in character. The vine is always pruned rather long, and Mr.
Crabb states that it is necessary to do so in order to obtain a sufficient
production.
The grapes sent by Mr. Pellet were on their arrival quite badly bruised,
but otherwise Avere in good condition, and were worked on October 9, 1884,
showing 20.61 per cent of sugar.
The fermentation of 32.34 pounds crushed commenced on the morning
of October 10, 1884, at a temperature of 65.3° F., and reached its maximum
at a temperature of 74.3° F. (temperature of room, 66° F.) on the evening of
October twelfth; then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 67° F., on
October 17, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, eight days from the crush-
ing. The yield was 2.35 gallons from the above amount, corresponding to
145.40 gallons per ton; pomace, 10.70 per cent.
On November 13, 1884, the; young wine was racked from the lees; again
racked March 10, 1885. Wine was analyzed November 18, 1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, I884. (Pohndorft'.) Color, good, very good, but not up to expectations ; frank,
clean taste. The type is fit to go in any blend; by itself, also, of good taste for direct
consumption
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 18S4- Grossblaue. No. 11, of Glen
Ellen, No. 203 and U. No. 220 of grapes from St. Helena. These samples met with favor,
and the variety is sure to be one of the important ones for our vineyards.
The excellent properties of color and tannin in proper proportions, and neutral frank
taste, of the Grossblaue grape were manifest in blend U. No. 316 in a successful manner,
although the vintage of 1884 proves exceptionally poor in tannin.
U. No. 322, blend of equal parts of Grossblaue and Mondeuse with blend U. 317, equal
parts of Aramon and Zinfandel, shows a well covered wine as to color, of mellow taste,
with fine full astringency and an expression which is somewhat too loud, but shows the
way whereon to reach satisfactory results by continuation of studies.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle --- 21.31
Acid. -- 56
Wine.
Ai.^i.^i.i Volume--- -- 11.42
Alcohol: I ^gjj^^ 920
Bodv - -- 2.10
Tannin - 07
Acid - - 57
Ash - -.- - 25
2. Burgundy Type.
black burgundy.
(Locally known as " CrabVs Black Burgundy.") This variety is now
generally supposed to be the " Petit Pinot" of Burgundy — one of the many
varieties of the Pinot group. Its heavy bearing even under short pruning,
and the deep tint, heavy body, good astringency, and general high quality
of its wine, have recommended it for extensive culture in California. Its
94
cuttings root with some difficulty in the open ground, and are best rooted
in the nursery and transplanted.
No. 221. The grapes, from Mr. Crabb's own vineyard, arrived in appa-
rently good condition, and were crushed and worked on October 21, 1884,
showing 22.76 per cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 19.8 pounds crushed began on the morning of October
twenty-second, at a temperature of 65.3° F., and reached its maximum of
68.9° F. on the next morning (temperature of the cellar, 64.4° F.) where it
remained during forty-eight hours, then gradually fell to the cellar tem-
perature (64.4° F.) on November first, when the murk was drawn off, eleven
days from the crushing. The yield from the above amount was 1.32 gal-
lons, or at the rate of 133.42 gallons per ton; pomace, 13.89 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 23, 1884; again racked
April 22, 1885.
Wine was analyzed November 25, 1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, ISS 4- (Pohndorff.) Wine made from mouldy grapes; color as deep as from
the best coloring grapes. Taste quite full.
November ^5, ISS4. (E. W. H.) A heavy-bodied wine of intense purple color, with ade-
quate and pleasant acid and decided astringency. With .50 per cent water, the dilution
is excellent; with 100 per cent, the acid and color are good, but taniiin disappears.
ANALYSES.
H. W. Crabb,
Oakville.
J. B.J. Portal,*
Burgundy
Vineyard.
Must.
Sugar by spindle
Acid
Wine.
Alcohol: {v^-- ::::;:::::::::
Body -.-
Tannin ..-
Acid
Ash
22.95
IIM
9.34
2.77
.19
.77
.28
12.10
9.70
2.45
.07
.75
.28
No. 222. Blade Pinot. This grape, evidently a Pinot, but without any
special variety designation, was furnished by Mr. L. P. Berger, of Lower
Lake, Lake County. The grapes were from young vines, bearing for the
first time.
Grapes were worked on October 18. 1884. Of the 6.44 pounds crushed,
the fermentation began at a temperature of 68.9° F. on the morning of
October 19, 1884, and reached its maximum the next morning at a tempera-
ture of 71.6° F. (temperature of cellar, 68° F.); then very slowly fell to the
cellar temperature of 68° F. on October 24, 1884, when the murk was drawn
off, six days from the crushing. The yield from the above amount was .32
gallons, or at the rate of 98.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 9.23 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 15, 1884; again racked
December 12, 1884; again in March following. Wine was analyzed on
April 8, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of ViticuUural Convention Committee, December, 1884- U. No. 222. Black Pinot from
Lakeport grapes. Owing to mould having generated in these, could not be determined. as
to merits.
95
February 9, 18S5. (Pohndorff.) Grapes having been mouldy, its qiiality is that of a wine
unfit for any purpose; color, very deep indeed.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 19.58
Acid .63
Wine.
Aio V, i.f Volume 8.00
Alcohol : I ^y^ig^^ 642
Body 2.11
Tannin .13
Acid .75
Ash ---- .31
MEUNIER.
The Meunier (Miller, so called from the conspicuously white furze on its
leaves) is closely related to the Pinot or Burgundy group in most of its
characters. It is extensively cultivated in central and northern France,
and in Germany, as specially adapted to the less favorable locations and
soils in which the other varieties would fail to yield and ripen fruit well.
It seems to enjoy a higher estimation in France than in Germany, where
its wine is held to be considerably below the quality of the Pinots proper,
and as best utilized in blends. It is there reported to yield deep-tinted
wanes of a roughish character and of inferior bouquet.
So far as the Meunier wines have come under my observation in Cali-
fornia, they mostly justify the German rather than the French estimate of
their quality, being at first, at least, rather flat and lacking character, and
sometimes, contrary to European experience, color. It has, perhaps, not
found its proper soils as yet. Being hardy, productive, and early ripening,
it will doubtless succeed in the northern part of the State (where the best
Meunier wines have thus far been grown), and on soils on which vines of
higher quality would fail to bring remunerative returns. It may be pruned
long or short, according to the strength of the soil.
No. 223. Meunier. From W. Scheffler, St. Helena. This variety ar-
rived and was worked on September 19, 1884, the grapes being in good
condition. Fermentation of 83.6 pounds crushed, commenced on the morn-
ing of September twenty-first, at a temperature of 71.8° F., and reached its
maximum the following morning at a temperature of 82.4° F. (temperature
of cellar, 70° F.), remaining at- that point for the day, then gradually fell
to the temperature of the cellar, 68° F., on September twenty-seventh, when
the murk was drawn off", eight days from the crushing. The yield from
the above amount was 4.88 gallons, or at the rate of 116.93 gallons per ton;
pomace, 14.79 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 25, 1884, and again on
February 25, 1885; was analyzed on April seventh, and November 17, 1885.
No. 224. Meunier. From H. Mel, Glenwood, Santa Cruz County.
Grapes were received in bad condition, nearly all being more or less
decayed, and were crushed on October 8, 1884. Solid contents by spindle,
19.35 per cent.
Fermentation of 10.35 pounds crushed, began on the morning of October
10, 1884, at a temperature of 66.2° F.; reached its maximum on the even-
ing of October twelfth, at a temperature of 68.9° F. (temperature of the
96
room, 66° F.), then slowly fell to the cellar temperature of 67° F., on October
17, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, eight days from the crushing.
The yield from the above amount was .62 gallons, or at the rate of 120.10
gallons per ton; pomace, 12.30 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 24, 1884, and again on
April 22, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. February 11, 1885. (Pohn-
dortf.) No color, and quality impaired in keg. Meiinier Nos. 2 and 78, of Glen Ellen,
223 of St. Helena, and U. 224 of Glenwood grapes, gave no high idea of the quality of this
grape. Blend U. 318, in which Meunier is added to Zinfandel and Mataro, is a happy
union and apparently the application in a similar manner may be useful.
April 20, 1885. (E. "W. H.) A light-bodied and very light-tinted wine, which has devel-
oped no bouquet thus .far; acid, moderate, agreeable.
November 19, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) The wine from Scheffler's, of bright condition; color,
quite light; bouquet, very well developed and agreeable, with vinous flavor; acid, rather
high, apparently inconsequence of the thin staves of the keg; a considerable proportion
of the acids being volatile.
The wine from Mel's grapes, having on account of its small quantity been kept in glass
bottles, is but slightly developed as yet, though showing a considerable increase in acidity.
The wine is somewhat lighter tinted than Scheffler's, and not as clear, but no rigorous
comparison of the two can be made.
The undoubted and striking development of a desirable bouquet in Scheffler's wine is a
good indication of quality, and correspondingly modifies the opinions given in the com-
mittee report above.
ANALYSES.
W.Scheffler.
St. Helena.
H. Mell.
Glenwood.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
22.73
.48
12.55
10.07
2.55
.03
.53
.42
19.35
Acid - --
.60
. -1 1 1 ( Volume
Wi7ie.
8.64
Alcohol: j^jg,^^ ;:;;;":;;;;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
6.95
Body --
2.44
Tannin
.06
Acid - --
.62
Ash
.29
ZINFANDEL.
The Zinfandel is too well known in California to require any remarks
on its general character, beyond the statement that since about two fifths
of the vineyards of the State were in 1884 reported to be planted with this
vine the importance of adapting its product to the taste of the world's
market cannot easily be overestimated. Hence in the work of the season
1884, the opportunity afforded by the numerous grape varieties sent to the
laboratory was extensively utilized in the trial of blends with the Zinfandel.
The results of these experiments will be found under the head of " Blends,"
page 119.
(The record regarding Zinfandel wines sent for analysis in 1884 is given
in connection with the general discussion of Zinfandel wines in the report
for 1883-4 above.)
No. 225. Zinfandel. From vineyard of Charles W. Howard, Lower
Lake, Lake County. Grapes from two-year old vines arrived on Septem-
ber tenth in good condition, and were crushed on the following day. They
were rather short of full ripeness.
Fermentation of 73.48 pounds crushed began on the morning of Septem-
97
ber twelfth, at a temperature of 71.6° F., and reached its maximum on the
morning of September thirteenth, temperature 78.8° F. ; temperature of the
cellar, 66° F.; then fell slowly to the temperature of the cellar (69.8° F.) on
September eighteenth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the
crushing, the yield being 5.18 gallons from the above amount, or at the
rate of 140.9 gallons per ton; pomace, 14.67 per cent.
This wine was racked from the lees on October second, and then blended
with some of that from the Grenache, Petit Bouschet, and Bastardo.
RECORD OF TASTING.
September 29, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Color purplish, rather than ruby; tastes of vmripe
grapes, but clean, fruity, and fresh, with good expression.
November, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Excellent color and astringency, but acids not harmo-
nious ; flavor very fruity for so young a vine.
Report of VHicultural Convention Committee. December, 1SS4- U. No. 225 Zijifandel, from
grapes of C. W. Howard, Lower Lake, which had attained only an imperfect maturity,
and were the first fruit from a new plantation, showed a high degree of bouquet, and was
of light good taste.
No. 226. Zinfandel. From vineyard of J. L. Black, Livermore. This-
variety was worked on October fourth; grapes in good condition, and show-
ing 18.81 per cent solid contents by spindle.
Fermentation of 11.22 pounds crushed, began on the evening of October
fifth, at a temperature of 69.8° F., and reached its maximum on October
seventh, at a temperature of 75.2° F. (temperature of the room, 67° F.), then
slowly fell to the cellar temperature of 68° on October eleventh, when the
murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing, the yield from the above
amount being 1.06 gallons, or at the rate of 188.47 gallons per ton ; pom-
ace, 10.79 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 17, 1884; again racked
February twenty-fifth; again in August following. Wine was analyzed
April 9, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Wine is of good Zinfandel type, but as the grapes were
mouldy, it could not be projierly judged.
April 9, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) A bright, heavy-bodied wine with light astringency and
medium acid ; color, not very intense garnet.
No. 227. Zinfandel. From vineyard of P. W. Butler, Penryn. Grapes
were in a very bad condition — soft and decayed. They were also very
"green," notwithstanding their color being reddish. The lot was crushed
on October 4, 1884, and showed 16.05 per cent solid contents by spindle.
Fermentation of 18.26 pounds crushed, began on the morning of October
sixth, at a temperature of 70.7° F., and reached its height on the evening
of the same day, at a temperature of 72.5° F. (temperature of the cellar,
67° F.) , then very slowly fell to the temperature of the cellar (68° F.) , on Octo-
ber thirteenth, when the murk was drawn off nine days from the crushing;
yield from the above amount being 1.25 gallons, or at the rate of 136.3 gal-
lons per ton; pomace not determined.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 17, 1884; racked again on
October twenty-second; again on November twenty-fifth; again in March,
and also in August, 1885. An analysis was made on February 7, 1885.
98
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticidtaral Convention Committee, December, 1SS4-
was of ordinarj' quality.
ANALYSES.
U. No. 227, Penryn Zinfandel,
No. 227.
P. W. Butler.
No
J. L.
22G.
Black.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
16.05
.59
9.25
7.43
1.92
.08
.63
.20
18.81
Acid..-- - --
.55
., 1 , (Volume
Wine.
9.75
Alcohol: {weight-. ..::;;:;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::"
Body
7.85
2.36
Tannin
.05
Acid -
.45
Ash -.-
.44
No. 228. Zinfandel. From vineyard of E. B. Smith, Martinez. Grapes
arrived in quite a green condition and were worked on October 4, 1884.
Solid contents by spindle, 18.50 per cent.
Fermentation of 37.18 pounds crushed, began on the evening of October
sixth, at a temperature of 68.9° F., reaching its maximum during the next
evening at a temperature of 73.4° F. (temperature of room, 68° F.) , then slowly
fell to the cellar temperature, 67° F., on October 11, 1884, when the murk
was drawn off, seven days from the crushing; the yield being 2.5 gallons
from the above amount, or at the rate of 134.5 gallons per ton; pomace,
16.27 per cent.
The wine was used for blending, with the exception of a sample which
was sent to the Viticultural Convention, their report being as follows:
U. No. 228 in an acceptable wine indicative of good quality from that locality, but no
delicacy of its flavor was observable in the sample.
3. Southern French and Italian Type.
TROUSSEAU.
Among the grape varieties best adapted for the purpose of overcoming
the too pronounced characters of the Zinfandel, the Trousseau has been
prominently mentioned. There is no question that in several cases this
blend has been remarkably successful; perhaps more decidedly so than
any except the Grossblaue. But in others, it has been unsatisfactory; and
it is of considerable interest to determine the cause of this difference, since
the Trousseau when properly pruned is a good bearer, and its wine imparts
to blends a desirable delicacy. Below are given the results of the analyses
of several authentic Trousseau wines, that throw some light on the ques-
tion:
99
M. Denicke
.T.T.Doyle
C. A. Wetmore.
Wm. Pfeffer...
Geo. West
Locality.
Fresno.
Cupertino
Livermore
Santa Cruz Mount'ns
Stockton - -
1883
3.07
10.63
1888
2.69
11.15
1884
3.04
9.78
1884
2.28
9.92
1884
2.66
11.23
13.10
13.50
12.18
11.64
13.73
.172
.040
.041
.050
.075
.534
.447
.328
..349
.379
.645
.600
.435
.474
.485
Must.
22.87
23.94
.518
.330
It will be noted, that except in the case of Denicke's 1883, from Fresno,
tannin percentages of these wines are very small, and far below those re-
quired for standard clarets. The same is true, as has heretofore been
shown, of the Zinfandels grown in the coast range valley lands; while those
from the hill lands, and seemingly also those from the San Joaquin Valley,
have a larger supply of tannin. It is in a great measure the lack of tannin
that leaves the somewhat sharp acid of the Zinfandels so unpleasantly
prominent; and when this is remedied, as in the hill Zinfandels it is nat-
urally, or as it is in blends with Grossblaue, Crabb's Burgundy, or other
tannin-bearing grapes, that sharpness vanishes, although the peculiar flavor
of the Zinfandel still comes out. The Trousseau overcomes the latter to a
remarkable extent, but the blend can be satisfactory only on condition that
the tannin deficiency is remedied at the same time.
The practical inference is obvious that, in blending Trousseau with Zin-
fandels, care should be taken not to join two products having the same
deficiency. Thus, a hill Zinfandel would probably make a satisfactory
blend with a Trousseau like Denicke's, without any third ingredient. But
such as those from Livermore, Cupertino, or Santa Cruz Mountains, would
evidently need some third, heavily tannin-bearing wine, in order to make
an acceptable blend; the more as the Trousseau carries, as will be seen, a
pretty full supply of acid, though not of as sharp a quality as is that of the
Zinfandel.
Another practical inference is, that in order to give to the Trousseau at
least as much tannin as the grape can supply, it should be allowed to
remain on the skins as long as is compatible with other considerations:
such as exposure to acetification, to contamination from unsound grapes,
etc.
On the other hand, it is clear that the Trousseaus poor' in tannin would
blend particularly well with the highly tannin-bearing Zinfandels of Fresno,
whose relative lack of acid in ordinary years would also thereby be com-
pensated.
In regard to body and alcoholic strength, the Trousseau wines agree
very nearly with the Zinfandels from the same localities.
As regards the adaptation of the Trousseau grape to the manufacture of
ports, its claim cannot rest on its chemical composition, but solely upon the
peculiar port or sherry flavor acquired by its wines when somewhat aged —
an important qualification, but not available unless supplemented by blend-
ing with other wines possessing the requisite body and tannin, if high grade
ports are to be produced. Since the successful introduction of the true port
wine grapes — the Mourisco Preto, Tinta Cao, Tinta Amarella, and others —
the importance of the Trousseau for this purpose will probably be second
to these, unless better adaptation to climate or higher productiveness should
still secure it a preference.
100
The following extracts from, the report of the Wine Committee of the
Convention of 1884 illustrates these points :
Nos. 70 and 71. Ports from the Trousseau grape from Cresta Blanca, Livermore, are
expressive of the fruit taste of the grape, which yields certainly a good type of sweet red.
No. 56 is a wine of which a small proportion might be admitted in port-like wine from
better adapted grapes. Nos. Ill and 112, Fresno ports of 1883 and 1884, resent the poor
fortifying mediums used in their preparation. No. 160, Stockton Trousseau port, is clean
tasting and of good sweetness, but would be better qualified had it more astringency.
No. 149. Trousseau port of 1880, of the same grower, has a fine bouquet, proving the
adaptedness of the grape to port character wines; its sweetness is rich and pleasant, but
the tannic proportion is too deficient to render it perfect.
In the matter of sweet reds, of California production, there is certainly success from
varieties like the Trousseau and to a degree also from Malva.sia from the southern counties,
after the wines have obtained some age and oxidation has brought out a lively etheriza-
tion, which pleasantly influences the taste; the onlj^ objection to them is, that the astrin-
gency generally does not keep pace with the sweetness, which is too free to allow our ports
to find favor with all tastes.
We may therefore be allowed to urge wine-makers, for the security of success, to experi-
ment seriously in future vintages with different high class varieties and, chief among
them, with the Oporto ones, for the sake of bringing our port wines up to a creditable
standard.
Mention should have been made of a white Trousseau wine, not analyzed, sent by Gen.
H. M. Naglee, of San Jose. This sample was ten years old, and had become a dry sherry
of surprising quality. Perhaps the Trousseau wUl find good use in this connection yet.
No. 230. Trousseau, from G. West, Stockton. Grapes arrived in fair
condition, and were worked on October 18, 1884, showing 23.94 per cent
solid contents by spindle. Fermentation of 62.92 pounds crushed began
on the morning of October 19, 1884, at a temperature of 66.2° F., reached
its height on the morning of October twenty-second, at a temperature of
72.5° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), then gradually fell to the temper-
ature of the cellar, 66.2° F., on October 27, 1884, when the wine was drawn
off, nine days from the crushing. The yield from the above amount was
5.02 gallons, or at the rate of 159.55 gallons per ton; pomace, 11.54 per
cent. The wine was racked from the lees on November 5, 1884, then again
on February twentieth. It was slow in clearing, and even on April tenth,
when tasted, was not clear in the bottle.
No. 79. Trousseau, from William Pfeffer, Gubserville. Grapes arrived
in fair condition, with some mouldy grapes in the bunches; were carefully
picked over and worked on October 21, 1884, showing a sugar percentage of
22.85. Fermentation of 11.5 pounds crushed commenced on the morning
of October 22, 1884, at a temperature of 64.4° F., and reached its maximum
on the morning of October 24, 1884, at a temperature of 68.9° F. (temper-
ature of the cellar, 64.4° F.), then slowly fell to the temperature of the
cellar, 64.4° F., on, October twenty-eighth, when the murk was drav/n off,
seven days from the crushing. The yield from the* above amount being
.79 gallons, or at the rate of 138.56 gallons per ton; percentage of pomace,
9.62. The young wine was racked from the lees on November 23, 1884,
and again on April 22, 1885; at the last racking its condition was bright.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Vitlcultural Convention Committee. V. 230 and U. 231 do not give a clear idea of
the type, the grapes having become mouldy. This variety is a very recommendable one,
and, in congenial locations, very thrifty. N^o. 76 (West's) has only a trace of mould, while
Pfefifer's grapes were badly affected, and the wine can only be judged as to color, acid,
and alcoholic contents, as ascertained by analysis.
Of the tasting of No. 76 on April 10, 1SS5, the record is as follows (E. W. H.)_:
Condition, somewhat turbid; color, light red; acid and astringency very light, so that a
little dilution spoils it; very little bouquet developed as yet, but flavor vinous.
The analyses of both were made November 25, 1884;' hence, the determination of the
body is somewhat too high.
101
SIRAH — PETITE SIRAH, SYRAC, ETC.
The Sirah, like the Mondeuse, is most largely cultivated in southeastern
France, from the region of Lyon southward beyond Valence; but it is also
grown more or less on the Cote d'Or and in the Bordelais. It forms, in
blends with white grapes like the Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, etc., a
large ingredient of the high-grade red wines of Hermitage, Cote Rotie, and
other localities. It is a \dgorous vine, of good productiveness; is mostly
pruned long, or half long, but is sometimes nearly as productive as the
Mondeuse even when short-pruned.
From Natoma, the Sirah is reported to be (long-pruned) a very fair
bearer, and medium ripening, a little later than the Mondeuse. This is
the reverse of what is stated in this regard from France, where the Mon-
deuse ripens between the second and third epoch, while the Sirah is of the
second. The character of the Sirah from Natoma was very exactly that
described and figured by French authors, only the bunches were more
closely packed. They arrived in good condition, although the skin is
more tender than that of the Mondeuse; and, on the whole, the Sirah
would not bear transportation or keep as well as the former. The berries
are very juicy and deeply colored.
Two lots were received — one, No. 232, on September thirteenth, showing
21.6 sugar by spindle; the other. No. 233, September thirtieth, with (accord-
ing to the alcoholic contents of the wine) about 23.0 of sugar. The first
lot was in good condition ; the second considerably damaged by handling,
and in part by mould ; but it was carefully picked over before crushing.
Of the first lot, 104.7 pounds was crushed on September thirteenth, and
began fermentation on the morning of the fifteenth, at a temperature of
68.9° F. It reached its maximum temperature of 77.8 F. on September
sixteenth, remaining at that temperature for one day, while that of the
cellar was 70° F.; then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 69° F., on
September twentieth, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the
crushing, the yield being 8.9 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate
of 170.1 gallons per ton; pomace, 11.3 per cent. The young wine was
racked from the lees on November twenty-seventh.
The fermentation of the second lot of 86.9 pounds, crushed on September
thirtieth, began on the evening of October second, at a temperature of 66.2 F.,
and reached its maximum. of 76° F. on October fourth, the temperature of the
cellar being at the time 67° F. Next morning the temperature had fallen
to 71.6° F., and then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 68.9° F. on
October eighth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the crush-
ing, the yield being 7 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate of only
161.1 gallons per ton. This wine was racked from the lees on November
eleventh. The color of both samples was very intense.
RKCORD OF TASTING.
Novemher 11, 1SS4- (Pohndorff.) No. 2.32, good color and clean taste.
No. 233, deeper color than No. 232, clean taste.
Viticultural Convention Committee Report. Petit Sirah U. 232 and 202, from Oakville, con-
firmed the conviction gained from previous samples from Mr. Drummond, of Glen Ellen,
of a very useful wine of splendid color, fine fragrance, and frank, clean, vinous taste.
The latter gentleman presented his 1884 in a blend with one fifth of Marsanne, the white
grape of Hermitage, and this blend was a very good one.
U. No. 319, one fifth Sirah to four fifths of Malbec, although having apparently too small
an addition of the former to modify the nature and taste of the latter, seems to be a hom-
ogeneous mixture, while U. blend "No. 312, not noted in the catalogue, consisting of one
third of Petite Sirah and two thirds of Cabernet Franc, is a successful combination. So is
blend No. 90, which in the catalogue is incorrectly noted, and consists of half Petite Sirah
102
and half Cinsaut; the result being a wine of perfumed flavor. The use of the same in
equal ]iroportions, making up 60 parts of Sirah, to 40 parts of Zinfandel, is beautifully
shown in IT. No. 320.
It will be noted that the pure Sirah sample. No. 232, mentioned above, is the earlier one.
Febrnary 9,1885. (PohndorfF.) Sample m five-gallon keg (No. 232), is of full flavor, good,
deep color, and rich, expressive taste, mild, and agreeable.
Sample in one-gallon demijohn: deep color, well kept, and development corresponding
to the clean taste and characteristic expression.
Sample in bottle: deep color, bright, clean taste, characteristic expression, advanced
development, owing to three rackings received since it finished its fermentation.
Sample in small keg from the grapes arrived September thirtieth: deep color; although
still sound, the wine has suffered and its taste is affected by too easy access of air and
evaporation through the thin staves.
April i, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) The condition of both samples, 232 and 2.33, is clear. The
color of the first is sensibly less deep than that of the latter sample, which is of an intense
purple tint; its body, also, is heavier to the taste than that of No. 232. The bouquet has
developed decidedly since last tasting, and has a suggestion of that of dried prunes. The
acidity of the sample No. 23.5 (the earlier), is quite decided to the taste though pleasant;
that of 2.32 a much less so, although this is the sample noted as having suffered from the
thinness of the staves. Neither dilutes well ; the bouquet is lost at once, though in No. 235
the acid and astringency still hold out, while 2.36 becomes flat at once.
For analysis, see table following Cinsaut.
No. 234. Serine. The Serine is held by Piilliat to be a mere variety of
the Sirah, and the characters of the grapes received from Natoma entirely
confirm this \dew. The amount received was very small, and the fermen-
tation was not quite successful, but so far as the facts go, the wine also
showed a substantial identity with that of the Sirah.
Grapes arrived in good condition, and were worked on September 13,
1884. Of 15.62 pounds crushed, the fermentation commenced on the morn-
ing of September fourteenth, at a temperature of 67.1° F. It reached its
maximum of 72.5° F. (temperature of cellar, 66° F.) on September sixteenth,
then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar, 69.8° F., on September
twenty-third, when the murk was drawn off, ten days from the crushing,
the yield being .978 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate of 125.16
gallons per ton; pomace, 14.08 per cent. The young wine was racked from
the lees on November fourteenth, and again February twenty-fourth. Sam-
ple for analysis was taken on April ninth.
RECORD OF T.XSTING.
April .9, 1885. (E. W. H.) The condition of the sample is bright, and the color an intense
purple red; body, heavy; bouquet, well developed and excellent; acid, excessive, on ac-
count of acetification ; astringency, high.
AN.\LYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 21.43
Acid. - 59
Wine.
.,,^i.f Volume-- - 10.58
Alcohol:|^ . j^^_ __ 848
Body --- 2.49
Tannin - .06
Acid - ---- - 51
Ash - - - -- .40
MONDEUSE.
Cultivated chiefly in southeastern France, in the more northern depart-
ments bordering on the Rhone, and in Savoy, where it forms a large pro-
portion of the vineyards and yields excellent red wines, provided it is
planted on upland slopes with good exposure, as it needs considerable heat
to acquire its best qualities ; in valley lands, or on unfavorable slopes, it
103
rapidly loses quality. The wines are heavy-bodied and deeply colored, but
somewhat rough at first and rather slow to mature. It is a vigorous and
very productive vine, even with short pruning, and remarkably long-lived.
From the Natoma Vineyard it is reported as being not quite so productive
as the Sirah, but more ^dgorous — the bunches from that locality were, on
the whole, remarkably long and rather more loose than in the figure, even
sparse; berries of medium size with a thin but firm skin, much less tender
than those of the Sirah, and deeply colored.
Two lots were received, one on September 10, 1884, with 20.2 per cent
sugar, and a second one on October 1, 1884, showing 22.6 per cent of sugar.
Both were crushed for their own wine on the days of receipt, and were in
good condition throughout. Fermentation of the first lot (No. 236) began
on the night of September eleventh, at 68.9° F., and reached its maximum
temperature of 82.4° F. on the night from September thirteenth to four-
teenth, then fell to the temperature of the cellar (70° F.) on September
seventeenth, the seventh day from the crushing, when the murk was
drawn oft', the yield being 12 gallons from 148.06 pounds, or at the rate of
167.2 gallons per ton; pomace, 13.4 per cent. Fermentation of the second
lot (No. 235) began on the morning of October second, at 66° F., and
reached its maximum temperature of 71.6° F. on October fourth, then fell
to the temperature of the cellar on October eighth; when the murk was
drawn off", eight days from the crushing, the yield from the 56.3 pounds
employed not being measured in this case; pomace, 12.6 per cent.
The fermentation was regular and satisfactory throughout, and the young
wine cleared very rapidly; racked from lees November twenty-sixth.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 11. (PohndorfF.) Sample No. 235, crushed September tenth. Excellent color
and taste.
Same date, No. 230, of October first, better than the preceding, and of very marked
quality.
First week of December; Convention Committee report. Equal usefulness and quality (as in
the Petite Sirah) is shown in samples No. 73 of Mrs. C. A. Wetmore and U. No. 236 of Mon-
deuse, or Grosse Sirah. The color, as grand, ruby-tinted, and of great intensity in this
wine, as in the small Sirah, and astringency and general taste and flavor of equal beauty,
will render the two varieties some of the future favorite plants in California vineyards.
U. No. 321, a blend of two fifths Mondeuse with three-fourths Zinfandel, is an eloquent
test of a happy improvement and good use of Zinfandel for a delicious superior wine. It
is fortunate that, according to experience at the Natoma Vineyard, the Petite Sirah shows
itself a very fair bearer, and Mondeuse to be a vine of good vigor; both ripen early.
February 9,1885. (Pohndorff.) Sample in ten-gallon keg: color deep ruby, taste clean,
mild, light, and showing good development, but taste slightly impaired by the thinness of
the staves, and coiistMiuciit excessive access of air. Bouquet expressive, but likewise
influenced by the circuiustance just referred to. Had the care of keeping an even tem-
perature in the cellar been relaxed, this wine would probably have gone wrong.
Sample in full bottle filtered from lees November twenty-sixth : kept and developed
well; taste frank, color unimpaired.
Sample in bottle three fourths full, closely corked, same date as above: perfectly sound,
color kept remarkably well. Taste astringent ; oxidation produced only a slight bitterness.
Small remnant of same in eight-ounce vial, with cork loosely put "in since November
twenty-sixth, kept its color perfectly, taste clean and only slightly affected by the air that
half filled the vial.
The Mondeuse proves therefore to be a sturdy keeper, a circumstance of great value for
the hot regions of the State.
April 1, 1885. (E. W. H.) The condition of the earlier sample. No. 235, is bright; its
color is sensibly less intense than that of No. 236, which is clear and of an intense
purplish-red color. The character of both is stronglj'^ developed, showing a peculiar,
fruity bouquet, most agreeable in the later sample. The body is heavy; the vinous flavor
is well developed; both are decidedly roughish to the taste at this time, both acid and
astringency being quite prominent; the wine dilutes remarkably well. It will evidently
take some time to tone down the asperity. In all respects, therefore, the samples agree
with the French types.
For analysis see table following Cinsaut.
104
CINSAUT, OR BOUDALES.
The Cinsaut is widely distributed in the south of France, from the Alps
to the Pyrenees. It yields a heavy-bodied but delicate and highly-flavored
wine, and for that reason is largely used in blends, to which it imparts its
fine aroma, which is best developed at the age of about four 3'ears. It is,
moreover, a most excellent table grape. The grape develops its best quali-
ties on the warmest slopes of dry stony hills. On light soils its life is not
long, unless well sustained by fertilizers and with very short pruning;
requires a good deal of heat; ripens early in second period.
From Nato]na it is reported to be a fair bearer, not very vigorous, and
medium ripening. The grapes were received September twenty-fifth, in
excellent condition, and corresponded very accurately to the description of
the typical grape. Bunches and berries large, fine, and very attractive-
looking; berry rather firm, very sweet, but with sufficient acid to render it
very palatable. It was noted that the stems were already partly dry, while
at the same time some of the berries were not fully ripe, showing that the
unusually cool season had not supplied a fully adequate amount of heat for
uniform maturity.
The fermentation of the 121.7 pounds, crushed on September twenty-
sixth, began on the morning of September twenty-seventh, at a tempera-
ture of 68° F., and reached its maximum on September twenty-eighth, at a
temperature of 78.8° F., at which it remained for two days, the cellar tempera-
ture being 70° F. It then gradually fell to the temperature of 68.9° F., that of
the cellar on October third, when the murk was drawn off, on the ninth day
from the crushing, showing a remarkably uniform and vigorous fermenta-
tion. The yield was 10.7 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate of
176.5 gallons per ton ; pomace, 11.6 per cent; color of murk, quite full at
that time.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 16, 1SS4- (Pohndorff.) Color failed considerablj' ^^ince the pressing, but expres-
sion is splendid.
Of the sample presented to the Convention Committee, December 3, 1884, the record is as
follows :
Cinsaut. U. 237. This sam])lo illustrates the fact that even a grape with as great an
amount of coloring matter as the ( 'insaut possesses, ought to be blended with other varie-
ties, in order to hold the color. .Soon after fermentation the deep color was lost, and, as the
sample stands, only a poor pinkish tint is preserved in it. On tlie other hand, the quality
of the wine is grand, its flavor and corresponding taste of a high expression, indicative of
all that can be desired from a first-class red wine gra])e. The color in U. 323, half Cinsaut,
half Petite Sirah, is deep ruby, proper to the latter, and in no way more feeble than the
Petite Sirah wine alone, while the quality of this blend is vastly superior to Sirah straight.
It may be riskj' to deduce from the only instance of the Cinsaut wine U. 237, that the
grapes of this vine will generally be constituted similarly as to the precipitation of their
coloring matter, and this should, therefore, not deter from adopting the variety which is
a high grade one ; in fact, its aromatic ethers may be classed as of the most acceptable
ones for a very superior wine.
February 9, 1S<S5. (Pohndorff.) Samples in five and three-gallon kegs: color slightly
faded; taste and bouquet of a pleasant wine of some quality ; very easily developed.
Sample in a full eight-ounce vial: in an excellent state of development, brilliant and
good color ; taste clear and expressive.
Sample in half-full bottle, not tightly closed since November twenty-sixth : colorless
intense than that of the sample in the full vial; development that of wine of one year;
taste, perfect. The nuiking of wine from the Cinsaut grape seems thus to be very easy.
Ajwil 1, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) Condition not quite clear; color, pale pinkish, unsatisfactory;
bouquet high, excellent, and characteristic, fruity ; body, medium; acid, decided, a little
pungent, perhaps from the effect of the thin staves. The astringency is somewhat low, and
hence the wine does not dilute well; but as a whole is, perhaps, the most striking of all
for high quality acquired in a short time.
It may he here noted, that the Cinsaut, similar to the Grenache, on account of their lia-
bility of not holding their color, can probably be utilized for cliaracteristic white wines
by running off the juice before the skins can communicate color to the same.
For analysis see subjoined table.
105
ANALYSES OF MONDEUSES, IRAH, CINSAUT, AND BECLAN MUSTS AND WINES.
No.
•a o
r w
w
235
236
232
233
237
218
Mondeuse
Mondeuse
Sirah
Sirah
Cinsaut...
Beclan
Sept. 10-
Oct. 1--
Sept. 13.
Sept. 30.
Sept. 25-
Sept. 26.
20.160
22.600
21.600
"23.946
20.920
.510
.663
.528
.435
.413
.533
.450
.375
.381
.387
2.635
2.842
2.650
2.790
2.600
2.640
9.56
9.92
10.07
10.81
10.44
8.84
11.89
12.27
12..54
13.27
12.90
11.00
.173
.141
.092
.108
.070
.053
.498
.405
.401
.393
.490
.381
It will be noticed that the Mondeuse is altogether the heaviest bearer of
tannin, ranking in this respect with the Malbeck, Tannat, and Charbono;
the earlier sample, singularly enough, showing the higher figure. The
Sirah averages only two thirds as much, while the Cinsaut runs in this
respect with the Zinfandels.
Considering the cool season of 1884, the alcoholic contents run high in
all, as might be expected of grapes of their climatic location in France.
The body, though heavy, is not as high as might have been expected; but
as it distinctly increases with maturity, it would probably reach three per
cent in our ordinary seasons. Similarly the acid, which reaches a respect-
able figure in all (the Beclan being lowest), would ordinarily be somewhat
lower, probably, than in 1884. The Mondeuse comes nearest to a true
claret type ; but it is probable that for commercial purposes the wines from
these grapes would generally be blended with others, as is done in France;
and for such purpose they will certainly be of the highest value in modify-
ing and imparting quality to our more common types.
It will be seen from the above table that the Cinsaut had in a season of
low sugar and alcohol percentages attained a very respectable figure,
exceeded only by the Sirah and some sherry varieties. The Petit Bous-
chet, gathered a day later but not crushed until five days after the Cinsaut,
remains considerably behind the latter, as do also the Bordeaux varieties.
In the matter of tannin, the Cinsaut, Verdot, and Merlot run near together
and rather low.
ARAMON.
The Aramon is one of the long-cultivated varieties of southern France,
where it now occupies a large area, on account of its great productiveness
on fertile soils, this vine having the peculiarity that its product is propor-
tioned to tlie condition of the soil, both in quality and quantity. On dry,
stony hill soils it will yield a moderate amount of excellent wine of good
keeping qualities; in rich valleys, a very large quantity of low quality, of
very light tint, and best adapted to rapid local consumption; hence it is
not esteemed a good blending wine. The color of its wines is never deep,
but of a lively red shade. The vine is always pruned short, and the fruit
ripens late. It is subject to damage from late frosts, also to sunburn and
decay. From Natoma the Aramon is reported to be a good bearer, of
medium vigor, with large and loose bunches and large berries. The grapes
were picked October second, and arrived at Berkeley in good condition.
They corresponded accurately to the description of the variety.
106
No. 289. Aramon. Grapes were in good condition, and were worked on
October fourth, showing 18.29 per cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 46.86 pounds crushed commenced on .the morning of
October sixth, at a temperature of 69.8° F., reaching its maximum on
October eighth at a temperature of 74.3° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.),.
then slowly fell to the temperature of the cellar (66.2° F.) on October 11,
1884, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing ; the jdeld
from the above amount being 3.50 gallons, or at the rate of 149.5 gallons
per ton; pomace, 7.75 per cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 7, 1884; again racked
November 23, 1884; also in March and August, 18§5. An analysis wa&
made November 26, 1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November I4, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Wine in bottles thoroughly sound. Color very light
indeed. Taste neutral.
Report of Viticultvral Convention Committee, December, I884. Aramon. U. 238. This sam-
ple confirms the expectations from a quantity grape, which, according to Natoma Vine-
yard observations, this variety proves also to be. With a frank taste, very feeble color, low
acids, and moderate astringeiicy, this fruit may be extremely useful for mitigating heavy
wines, and play an important part for the production of cheap, good, light red wines for
general consum])tion. Nothing objectionable is apparent in the sample U. 324. The test
in blend U. No. 317, half Aramon with half Zinfandel, resulted in too coarse a unity, the
proportions being seemingly improper.
The blend of 15 per cent of Black Burgundy, with 15 of Carignane, 28 of Aramon, and 42
of Zinfandel, in U. No. 93, was harmonious.
Februarif 9, 1SS5. (Pohndorff.) Aramon has splendidly developed and intensified its
not very deep color, is a hardy wine, easy to handle in the cellar, as it is completely unaf-
fected by air influences in thin walled kegs.
ANALYSIS.
3fust.
Sugar by spindle 18.72
Acid - - .66
Wine.
Ai.^1,^1 . i Volume - --- 10.73
Alcohol: {weight 9.05
Body - ---- 2.32
Tannin .07
Acid .-- - --- .50
Ash 36
MOURASTEL.
The Mourastel is extensively cultivated in southwestern France, into
the Pyrenees. In its erect habit of growth, in its leaves and fruit, it
resembles the Mataro, but is in general a smaller bearer than the latter^
while yielding wines of deep color and high quality, which are in demand
for blending, notably with the Aramon and Grenache. The Mourastel
succeeds only on light and well drained soils, especially hillside lands. In
heavy and fertile soils it runs to wood, and in ill-drained ones it soon dies.
It is always pruned short.
From Natoma the vine is reported to be a good bearer, of good vigor,
rather late in ripening. The grapes were received and crushed, fully ripe,
on October fourth. They corresponded closely to the description, but it was
noted that the bunches varied from very compact to quite loose.
No. 239. Mourastel. This variety arrived in good condition, and was
worked on October fourth, showing 18.30 per cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 34.54 pounds crushed began on the morning of October
sixth, at a temperature of 72.5° F., and was very violent until the morning
of October ninth, the highest temperature reached being 75.4° F. (temper-
107
ature of cellar, 68° F.), then gradually fell to the temperature of the room,
68° F., on October 14, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from
the crushing, the yield being 1.75 gallons from the above amount, or at
the rate of 101.07 gallons per ton; pomace, 10.83 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November 15, 1884; racked
again February 20, 1885, and finally in August, same year. Wine was
analyzed November 25, 1884.
EECORD OF TASTING.
November, ISSJj. (Pohndorff.) Sample in vial sound, and i:iossessing a rich flavor and
expression. In kct,' there is still too much carbonic acid present to distinguish its beauty,
but it is there, and the grape ^vill prove very useful.
Report of Viticultiiral Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 239, from Natoma, is
a wine of splendid color and early developed, rich, vinous flavor, good astringency, and
decided acids, stamping it thereby as a blender, or needing a softening element as a direct
wine. Its taste is mellow, full, and quite in correspondence with its flavor. This variety
is very desirable for propagation in California, the more so as to its good qualities for
wine.
February 9, 1SS5. (Pohndorfl".) Wine has very rapidly advanced in its development.
Taste full and rich; color, deep. It is a valuable Variety.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar bv spindle - - 18.79
Acid..-- .---- --- 63
Wine.
. 1 „^i, „i . ( Volume 9.88
Alcohol: I ^gjj^^ 792
Body 2.60
Tannin - .05
Acid 55
Ash. 29
GRENACHE.
The Grenache is pretty well known in this State, as it has been for some
time quite extensivly cultivated in the Santa Clara Valley, and to some
extent in that of Napa. It is a variety belonging to northern Spain and
southern France, and noted there for its vigorous growth and productive-
ness, under the short pruning system, but requires rich soils; in these it
comes into bearing remarkably early. Its wines are rather heavy-bodied
and rich in alcohol, of a moderately deep-red color, which tends to become
brownish or yellowish with advancing maturity. This tendency to lose its
color has been prominently noted in California, as also the strongly pro-
nounced " caramel " taste of its more mature wines. That, while much
liked by some, is objectionable to others. On account of this pronounced
flavor, it cannot, evidently, serve for blending with wines of delicate bou-
quets.
No. 240. Grenache. From Natoma it is reported to be a fair bearer, with
small vigor; bunches both loose and compact; ripening in the early part of
September.
Grapes were not fully ripe, but were in good condition; were received on
September sixth; worked up the following day, and showed 21.80 per cent
sugar. Fermentation of 48.6 pounds crushed, began on the morning of
September tenth, at a temperature of 71.6° F., and reached its maximum
on the evening of the same day, at a temperature of 75.2° F. (temperature
of room, 70° F.), then very gradually fell to cellar temperature of 68° F., on
September sixteenth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the
crushing. The yield being three gallons from the above amount, or at the
rate of 139.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 13.53 per cent.
108
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; again
racked November fifteenth; again racked March tenth, and lastly, in Sep-
tember.
RECORD OF TASTING.
September 23, I884. No color, and wine bitter to the taste. (Pohndorflf.)
April 6, 1885. (E. W. H.) Heavy -bodied wine, with very light color; fair astringency
and high acid, owing to acetification from thin staves. Analysis was made on above date.
No. 241. Grenache. From vineyard of Wm. Pfeflfer, Gubserville, Santa
Clara County. Grapes arrived and were worked on October twenty-first;
condition medium with a few mouldy. Solid contents by spindle, 18.12
per cent.
Fermentation of the 14.96 pounds crushed started on the morning of
October twenty-second, at a temperature of 66.2° F., reaching its maxi-
mum during the next morning at a temperature of 73.4° F. (temperature of
cellar 62.6° F.), then gradually fell to the cellar temperature, 64.4° F., on
October 28, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crush-
ing. The yield from the above amount being 1.12 gallons, corresponding
to 150.11 gallons per ton; pomace, 9.60 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November 15, 1884; again
racked April 23, 1885; also, in August; analyzed November 22, 1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, 1884- Mouldy grapes liave impaired the flavor.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884- Grenache 115, of Fresno —
lacks color, 174 of J. T. Doyle middling color, U. 241, from grapes of Santa Clara
County, no color, poor body— 137 and 1.38 of Lefranc, 1881 and 1880. None of these
represent a satisfactory type, nor is any similarity to the Banyuls and Colliure tyjies
approximated, ytill, the grape is of value, but in connection with Mataro and Carig-
nane none of the wines seem to give satisfaction. Doubtless the splendid growth of the
Grenache vine, and its abundant bearing in good position, recommend it, and, if raised
by addition of appropriate grapes from other varieties, the quality of its wine may be
brought up to the mark. Until this is ascertained its propagation on a moderate scale
only might be advisable. In France the quality of the aged Grenache wines is praised,
but their color turns into a vellowish tint. The same is the case in northern Spain, where
the turning into what is called rancio for certain markets is desirabie, sweetness being
X^reserved, and a soft mellow wine the consequence; but this is just the opposite type to
straight, frank tasting, deep tinted, dry table wines, the merit of which lies in perfection
through a thorough fermentation.
The tendency of the Grenache wine being to an oxidation of its rich ethers, the utiliza-
tion of this grape for port — character, sweet red — might be suggested. In any case, it
should not go alone for this purpose, but another or several of the Oporto varieties be
added; and, next, care should be taken to choose varieties the coloring matter of which
should be intense, l>ut in its nature and weight not such as to aid in precipitating that of
the Grenache grape. This suggestion is based, of course, only on a hypothesis, but it may
be followed up in the coming years, for study, as the Grenache vine has been copiously
planted in some regions and is in favor, and all experience and studies for finding the best
utilization of the same wiU be desirable.
ANALYSES.
No. 240.
Natoma Co.
No. 241.
Pfeffer.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
21.80
.(52
10.58
8.48
1.07
.11
.48
.28
18.12
Acid ^ -
.41
., , , (Volume
Wine.
9.27
Alcohol: jw^j^ v "::::::"::"':::"::;::— .
7.43
Body .-- --
1.93
Tannin
.07
Acid -- -- -
.53
Ash . .- . -- -
.28
109
PETIT BOUSCHET.
This grape is of especial interest as being the direct result of the careful
hybridization of the Aramon, a quantity grape of medium quality and yield-
ing but little color, with the intensely colored Teinturier. Like the latter,
it has- not only color in the skin, but also in juice itself, and is, therefore,
largely used in making up for deficiency of color in blends, while it is not,
by itself, a grape of high quality. It is a heavy bearer, even when short
pruned; it is cultivated chiefly in the south of France; ripens early.
From Natoma the Petit Bouschet is reported to be a medium bearer, of
good vigor, and medium ripening time. Lots were shipped from Natoma
on the nineteenth, and again on the twenty-fourth of September. The latter
was altogether overripe, and somewhat damaged thereby when received;
the first was fully ripe, and in part showed a disposition to dry into raisins.
Evidently the grapes could have been harvested some time before, say the fif-
teenth. They had been heavily sulphured, and had to be carefully washed
to avoid tainting the wine. The samples agreed well with the description,
only the bunches were rather longer and looser than in the figure.
The first lot (No. 242) of 865 pounds, received and crushed September
twenty-second, began fermentation on the morning of the twenty-fourth,
reaching its maximum temperature of 76.1° F. on the morning of the twen-
ty-fifth, then fell to 75.2° F. in the evening, and so remained for twenty-four
hours, then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 67° F. on September
thirtieth, when the murk was drawn off, eight days from the crushing; the
yield being 7.2 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate of 166 gallons
per ton; pomace, 13.3 per cent.
Fermentation of the second lot (No. 243) of 68.6 pounds, received and
crushed September thirtieth, began on the evening of October second (tem-
perature, 66.2° F.) and reached its maximum of 75.4° F. on the evening of
October fourth; then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 68° F. on
October eighth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the crushing,
the yield being 5.3 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate of 153.9
gallons per ton.
Both wines were racked from the lees on October twenty-third, and again
November eleventh and March twenty-fifth, the lees being very voluminous.
RECORD OF TA.STING.
November 13, 1SS4- (Pohndorflf.) No. 242. Good, but color less deep than expected.
No. 243 — Character pretty neutral, but the expression of Aramon grape predominant.
Perfectly sound.
Report of Co7ivent.ion Cmmnittee, December 7. Petit Bouschet U. No. 243 of Natoma, V. C.
No. 8 of Stockton, and V. C. No. 14 of A. Haraszthy, from his Madison vineyard, all show
excellent color, a fine flavor, mellowness in taste, and rich astringency ; and, doubtless, the
Petit Bouschet is an improvement upon the Teinturier, of which the Bouschet is a cross-
ing. The grapes at Natoma reached maturity at the middle of September. This vine is a
medium l)earer and of vigorous growth at Natoma. Its adoption in California vineyards
will be desirable, as its usefulness, chiefly for its coloring power, is great; and, seemingly,
an addition of this grape to port grapes for sweet wines is of value for the utilization of
that quality.
February 9, 1S85. (Pohndorff.) Petit Bouschet in kegs. One sample (No. 242) in a three-
gallon keg is of fine color and clean taste and bouquet; well preserved, and advanced in its
development.
Sample in two-gallon keg (No. 243). Color, somewhat impaired, yet deep ruby ; taste and
flavor also have suftered from the thinness of the keg staves. *
Sample in bottle since November eleventh : deep, brilliant color ; taste, frank and mild ;
well developed.
April 1, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) No. 242. Condition, bright; color, ruby red. quite intense; bou-
quet, faint, but agreeable ; astringency and acid, fair ; dilutes a little better than No. 243.
No. 243. Not entirely clear; color, not very intense; little bouquet; a little sulphur per-
ceptible; astringency and acid, rather low; does not bear dilution well.
110
ANALYSES.
No. 242.
Natonia
Company.
No. 243.
Natoma
Company.
Must.
Sugar by spindle
Acid
Wine.
,, ,„^T 1. ( Volume
Alcohol: l^ygjgj^t
Body
Tannin -'
Acid
Ash
20.61
.47
11.00
8.84
2.45
.09
.58
.23
11 55
9.27
2.87
.12
.49
.37
In tannin, the Bouschet ranges in its average near to or a little above
the Sirah, shows about double the amount in the Aramon, one of its ances-
tors, and nearly as high as its other ancestor, the Teinturier. In acid, also,
the Bouschet ranges pretty high, and thus promises a wide usefulness for
blending, even apart from its high color and good flavor.
CLAIRETTE ROUGE.
(According to the "Vignobles,^^ the Clairette Rouge is identical with the
Mataro. The Natoma grapes justify this conclusion.) This variety arrived
in damaged condition and was worked on October 2, 1884, showing 23.04
per cent of sugar. Fermentation of 22.4 pounds crushed begun on the
morning of October 5, 1884, at a temperature of 69.8° F., and reached its
highest point on the next morning at a temperature of 78.4° F. (temperature
of room, 67° F.), remaining so for the day, then slowly fell to the temperature
of the cellar, 67° F., on October eleventh, when the murk was drawn off, nine
days from the crushing; the yield from the above amount being 1.72 gal-
lons, corresponding to 153.32 gallons per ton; pomace, 8.59 per cent. On
November 10, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again on Novem-
ber twenty-fourth, and April 20, 1885. It fermented and cleared well, but
was found to have a mouldy taste, notwithstanding care in picking over.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I884. U. No. 244 Clairette Rouge shows
equally very good characteristics, but owing to a very small quantity having been obtained
for fer'menting, and the grapes having arrived mouldy at the University, the test with this
variety could not be thorough. The color is of a beautiful ruby tint and good density,
and the expression apparently a satisfactory one.
February 11, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Wine of 'a deep ruby color, well developed, with a soft
taste, but a slight flavor of mould prevents a definite judgment.
ANALYSIS.
Must..
Sugar by spindle .- 23.95
Acid - 57
Wine.
Ain^i,^i*.i Volume ---- 12.36
Alcohol: {^^gjj^^__ 992
Body ---- --- 2.72
Tannin - -- - 06
Acid - - ---- -- .51
Ash 29
Ill
BARBERA.
The Barbera is especially known as the grape forming the chief ingredi-
ent of the red wines of Asti, Italy, but it is now quite extensively grown in
northern Ital}^ on account of its hardiness, its fertility, and the high quaUty
of its product. It often bears heavily the third year, and this productive-
ness is maintained for many years. The Barbera is not choice in respect
to soil, but prefers a ferruginous clay and a warm east or south exposure.
It is not easily hurt by frost nor is it much subject to mildew. Being very
vigorous it does well with short pruning, being allowed more or less wood
according to soil and %dgor.
The rather large, olive-shaped, dark-tinted berries ripen during the sec-
ond period; they have a light, special aroma, but are harsh and hardly
agreeable to the taste.
A few bunches of this desirable variety, which was imported direct from
Italy by Mr. John T. Doyle, were received from him and carefully worked,
the vessel containing the small quantity being placed within a tub in which
a larger mass was being fermented, in order to maintain the proper temper-
ature. The wine when drawn off was of an intense and beautiful red tint,
very heavy body and high astringency, and despite the precautions taken
its fermentation was very slow in completing itself. Hence the sample
shown at the Convention could exhibit only in a remote degree the best
qualities of this noted grape.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Co7nmitt.ee. U. No. 24.5, Barbera. This wine was rep-
resented in a small vial from the fermentation of a few bunches from J. T. Doyle, the first
fruit of probably the only vines in the State. The fermentation of the insignificant quan-
tity had been a "tedious one, was not yet finished, but the grand qualities of this fruit were
unmistakably apparent. Color and astringency, together with solids and taste matters, are
most harmonious. The variety may confidently be expected to be an important one for
<Jalifornia, and, in all its qualities, to rank with the Medoc varieties.
The quantity of the wine at command was insufficient for an analysis.
4. American Type.
LENOIR.
The Lenoir is well known to be a grape of the American stock, resisting
the phylloxera well, and practically devoid of the "foxy" flavor to which
the French object in most wines from American grapes. It is quite a
prolific bearer, long-pruned, of course, like all American grapes, and yields
heavy-bodied and heavy-tinted wines, which in California at least are
rather low in their tannin contents. Few will find the Lenoir wine to their
taste when by itself, but as an ingredient for blending, where its particular
qualities are needed, it is of unquestionable importance.
No. 246. Lenoir. The grapes from Mr. Hagen's vineyard, Napa, arrived
on October 9, 1884. and were crushed the same day, showing 17.18 per cent
of sugar.
Fermentation of 32.8 pounds crushed began on the morning of October
tenth, at a temperature of 68.9° F.; reached its maximum on the morning
of October thirteenth, at a temperature of 73.4° F. (temperature of cellar,
67° F.), and remained at that point during the next thirty-six hours; then
gradually fell until the morning of October sixteenth, when the cellar tem-
perature of 67° F. was reached, and then the murk was drawn off", seven
days from the crushing; the }deld from the above amount being 2.31 gal-
112
Ions, or at the rate of 151.6 gallons per ton; pomace, 15.33 per cent. The
wine was racked from the lees on November 21, 1884; again racked April
4, 1885, and again in August following. The wine was analyzed April 4,
1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 14, 1SS4- (Pohndorff.) More delicate in its fruit expression, and softer in taste
than that from Anaheim. Very astringent, and color very deep.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I8S4. Lenoir. U. 246 and 247, the
former from Is'apa, and the latter from Anaheim grapes, both show good flavor, beautiful
color, and astringency; the Napa sjtecimen greater delicacy in its taste composition, the
latter a fuller bo'dy. " No. 32, of Glen Ellen, No. 178 from yt. Helena, No. 176, St. Helena,
blend in which one eighth of Lenoir is added to one fourth Zinfandel, one eighth Mataro,.
and the excessive proportion of one half Grenache, and further U. No. 45, wlierein about
one third Lenoir is added to two thirds Zinfandel, instance the great power of this grape,
chiefly for coloring and communicating astringent elements to other wines. This power,
which is very great, must be husbanded, as sample U. .325 shows the overwhelming effect
of so large a proportion as one third. That in the Lenoir vine we have one of the most
valuable agents, of American derivation, for blending in red wines, may be confidently
asserted, and the propagation of this phylloxera resistant vine be considered very advisa-
ble. The fermentation of the Lenoir proceeds smoothly, but it holds an enormous amount
of lees and does not easily precipitate the same after fermentation.
February 9, 1SS5. ( Pohndorff".) Sample in bottle kept its color very well; taste exces-
sively astringent, and its fruitiness that of any berry except the grape, otherwise sound.
Same in kegs, well preserved, tastes frank, color deep, quality middling, but decidedly useful
for blending.
November 18, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) The wine is of an intensely red color, with a heavy body
and vinous flavor; condition clear.
No. 247. Lenoir. Grapes sent from vineyard of L. Langenberger, Ana-
heim, arrived and were worked on October 13, 1884, showing 18.89 per cent
of sugar. ,
Fermentation of 27.5 pounds crushed began on the morning of October
14, 1884, at a temperature of 71.6° F., and reached its maximum during
the next morning at a temperature of 76.6° F. (temperature of the cellar,
67° F.), then slowly fell to the cellar temperature of 68° F. on October 20,
1884, when the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing; the yield
from the above amount being 1.85 gallons, or at the rate of 134.50 gallons
per ton; pomace, 11.80 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November 15, 1884; again
racked February 18, 1885; and also in August following. The wine was
analyzed November 19, 1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 14, 1S84- (Pohndorff.) Wine is of a very deep color, full of tannin and excel-
lent expression. Foxiness slightly perceptible, well fermented and quite dry.
November IS, 1885. (E. W. H.) The condition of the sample was bright, with intense
purple color. Body heavy and acid sharp. Flavor vinous, but bouquet undeveloped.
ANALYSES OF LENOIR AND HERBEMONT WINES.
No. 246.
No. 247.
No. 150.
Sugar by spindle
Must.
17.89
.81
10.16
8.13
3.00
.06
.63
.38
20.20
.63
11.17
8.98
3.71
.08
.58
.51
Acid .
Ai^^v..,! (Volume
Wine.
10.00
Alcohol: -j^^.j^^
7.99'
Body- -
1.80
Tannin
.04
Acid
.30
Ash..
.20'
113
The Herbemont is a resistant American stock, hardy and productive,
and, Kke the Lenoir, completely exempt from "foxiness" of taste. It de-
, serves greater attention than has been given to it thus far on the part of
our vineyardists, and as it needs no grafting for protection against the phyl-
loxera, it will meet the case of many who cannot afford the time and
expense of transportation.
No. 105. Red Herbemont, 1883, from George Husmann.* Color of sam-
ple, light garnet; bouquet well developed, very agreeable; astringency, fair;
acid, high; body, medium.
5. Rhenish Type,
blue elbling.
The Blue Elbling is a grape of the Rhenish region, and is there consid-
ered as a variety of the true Burger — White Elbling — or Kleinberger. (See
under the head of Burger, below.) It is quite extensively planted as a quan-
tity grape, but is lightly esteemed for quality, as yielding a light, watery wine
without bouquet, and subject to ropiness in the cellar. In this State the
Blue Elbling has justified a somewhat higher estimate of its wine-making
qualities, while fully maintaining its European reputation for productive-
ness. Its lack of color and tannin points to its utilization preferably for
white wines, or as a blend with red grapes having a full supply of the above
ingredients. It seems to have yielded the most satisfactory results in the
warmer parts of California.
No. 248. Blau-Elbling. The grapes sent by Messrs. Stern & Rose from
their vineyard arrived on October 8, 1884, in good condition, and were
crushed on the following day, showing 19.70 per cent of sugar.
Bunches rather large, short, usually shouldered on one side, thick; ber-
ries, reddish purple, with little color, semi-translucent; rather loosely put;
size, medium.
The fermentation of twenty pounds crushed began on the morning of
October 10, 1884, at a temperature of 65.3° F.,and reached its highest point,
70.7° F. (temperature of the cellar, 67° F.), on the evening of October
twelfth, then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar (67° F.) on Octo-
ber 17, 1884, when the murk was drawn off', nine days from the crushing,
the yield from the above amount being 1.37 gallons, or at the rate of 137.25
gallons per ton; pomace, 10.70 per cent. The young wine was racked
from the lees on November 16, 1884; again racked on November 24, 1884,
and also on April 8, 1885, on which day the wine was analyzed.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of ViticuUiiral Convention Committee, December, I8S4. No. 239. Blue Elbling (red).
This sample shows most faithfully the type and aspect that the variety can attain. Color
good, expression fruity, and really agreeable. But at the same time it proves that a fine
type of wine, for direct use, cannot be made from this grape, the taste of the well-fer-
mented sample being unclean, its flavors and acids denoting an early etherization and a
discordant composition. In blends with appropriate varieties the matter may be differ-
ent, and for white wine it is doubtless a good grape.
No. 144. Barton's Blue Elbling, poor color, has no merits beyond a slightly fruity ex-
pression.
Blue Elbling fermented white juice from Stern & Rose, No. 144, is a light, sound wine,
apparently firmer, and in its construction better than the red wine made from tliat grape.
February 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Blau-Elbling in vial, fair quality, but has suffered.
* Placed here for comparison with Lenoir, although a contributed wine.
114
ANALYSIS.
MllSt.
Sugar bv spindle 20.62
Acid---1 72
Wine.
Alcohol- 1 ^0^"™*^- — 10-25
Alcohol. I ^gjgj^^ 3 27
Body - 1.93
Tannin .04
Acid 59
Ash .-. - .34
RED GRAPE BLENDS.
Claret Type.
No. 314. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from Natoma, and Grosshlaue from
Pellet.
Both varieties were in good condition, and were crushed on October 2,
1884. Of the 52.8 pomids crushed, 75 per cent were Cabernet Sauvignon
and 25 per cent Grosshlaue, yielding 4.41 gallons.
Fermentation commenced on the evening of October third, at a tempera-
ture of 68° F. ; reached its maximum on October fifth at a temperature of
78.8° F. (temperature of the room, 69° F.), then very gradually fell to the
cellar temperature (66° F.) on October eleventh, when the murk was drawn
oflF, nine days from the crushing.
This young wine was racked from the lees on-November 23, 1884; again
racked February 27, 1885, and also in August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 314 is inferior to No.
14 (Cabernet Sauvignon of Mr. J. H. Drummond, Glen Ellen).
February 9, 1SS5. (F. Pohndorff.) A coarse tasting wine indicative of antagonism of the
two grapes in the proportions used.
No. 326. Cabernet Franc, from Natoma, and Grossblaue, from Pellet.
The total weight of grapes crushed was 24 pounds, of which 75 per cent
were Cabernet Franc, and 25 per cent Grossblaue, the yield being 1 gal-
lon. The lots were worked on October 2, 1884.
Fermentation began on the evening of October fourth, at a temperature
of 68.9° F.; reached its highest point of 72.5° F. (temperature of cellar, 69° F.),
on the morning of October 6, 1884, where it stood for over three days; then
very gradually fell to the cellar temperature (66° F.), on October eleventh,
when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the crushing.
The blend was racked from the lees on November 12, 1884; again racked
February 27, 1885, and again in August following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884- IT. No. 326, consisting of
Cabernet Franc and Grossblaue, has a certain degree of harshness, which indicates a too
heavy proportion of the latter grape.
No. 327. Blend of Cabernet Franc (from Natoma), Grossblaue (Pellet),
Folk Blanche (Natoma), and Black Prince (P. W. Butler).
The grapes for this blend were crushed on October 8, 1884; of the 48
pounds used 66| per cent was Cabernet Franc, 12^ per cent of each of
115
Grossblaue and Folle Blanche, and 8^ per cent of Black Prince; yield, 3.7
gallons.
Fermentation began on the morning of October 9, 1884, at a temperature
of 66.2° F., reached its maximum two days later, at a temperature of 73.4°
F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), where it remained for the day, then very
gradually fell to the cellar temperature (67° F.) on October 15, 1884, when
the murk was drawn off, seven days from the crushing.
On November 23, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees, again racked
on February 25, 1885, and again in August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, I884. (F. Pohndorff.) The young wine has too much carbonic acid pres-
ent to judge of its taste as yet. On racking there was a large amount of lees which was
rather sticky and slimy and full of coloring matter.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884- U. No. 327 having 15 per cent
Grossblaue, 10 per cent Black Prince, 15 per cent Folle Blanche, and tJO per cent Cabernet
Franc, proves to be quite distinct and advantageously combined.
February 9, 1SS5. Sample in bottle not filled has kept well and developed though still
containing a large amount of carbonic acid. The taste of Black Prince is predominant
and injurious.
No. 328. Blend of Mission (Vina), Carignnne (H. A. Pellet), and Folle
Blanche (Fresno).
The grapes for this blend were crushed on October 10, 1884. Of the
69.52 pounds worked, 50 per cent was Mission and 25 per cent of each of
Carignane and Folle Blanche. The yield was 5.38 gallons.
Fermentation began on the morning of October 11, 1884, at a tempera-
ture of 69.8° F., and reached its maximum of 78.8° F. (temperature of
cellar, 67° F.) on the morning of October thirteenth, remaining so for about
twenty-four hours, then gradually fell to the temperature of tli£ cellar
(68° F.) on October 16, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, six days from
the crushing.
The wine of this blend was racked from the lees on November 1, 1884;
again racked February 20, 1885, and finally in August of same year.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 11, 1884- (F. Pohndorff.) Not a proper blend. The Mission is entirely too
prominent.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884- U. No. 328, blend of half
Mission, Vina, Tehama County, one quarter Carignane and one quarter Folle Blanche,
gives no signs of harmony, nor that the coarseness of this Mission element could be over-
come by the addition.
Febniary 0, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Color turned to a poor bluish tint, taste faulty in
many resj^ects.
No. 316. Blend of Zinjandel (Martinez), Grossblaue (Pellet), and Folle
Blanche (Natoma).,
Of the 28 pounds of grapes worked on October 2, 1884, for this blend,
71|- per cent was Zinfandel; 21f per cent Grossblaue; and 7^ per cent
Folle Blanche, the number of gallons obtained being 2.5. The Zinfandel
grapes were quite green; those of the other varieties were in good condition.
Fermentation began on the morning of October 4, 1884, at a tempera-
ture of 68° F., and reached its maximum of 75.2° F. (temperature of room,
69° F.) on the next evening, then slowly fell until the temperature of the
cellar (66° F.) was reached on October eleventh, when the murk was drawn
off, nine days from the crushing.
On November 13, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again racked
December twelfth; again May 5, 1885; and lastly August, 1885.
116
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 12, IS84. (Pohndorff.) Blend in half bottle seems to be an improvement on
the Zinfandel. Sample. in two-gallon keg is not so successfully developed, nor is the color
so deep as that of the bottle specimen.
Report of Viticidtural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 316. Zinfandel, Gross-
blaue, and Folle Blanche is a model, or would have been if the Folle Blance juice addition,
which was only 7 to 21 Grossblaue and 72 of Zinfandel, had been raised to double the pro-
portion indicated.
February 9, 1S85. (Pohndorff.) Color faded, but taste agreeable and acceptable. Zin-
fandel having influenced the blend favorably; but it has suffered from the thin staves of
the kegs.
No. 329. Blend of Cabernet Franc (Natoma) and Carignane (Pellet).
The total amount of grapes crushed for this blend on October 4, 1884,
was 20 pounds, 75 per cent Cabernet Franc and 25 per cent Carignane;
the yield was 1.60 gallons.
Fermentation began at a temperature of 63.5° F. on the evening of Octo-
ber fifth, and reached its maximum at a temperature of 70.7° F. (tempera-
ture of cellar, 68° F.) on the evening of October eighth, then slowly fell to the
cellar temperature of 67° F. on October thirteenth, when the murk was
drawn off, nine days from the crushing.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; again racked
November 20, 1884; again racked April 20, 1885, and also in August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, IS84. (F. Pohndorff.) Blend is of good color and mellow taste, but owing to
a slight taint of mould the character of the wine cannot be judged.
No. 312. Blend of Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah (Natoma grapes).
This blend was made from grapes in good condition on October 1, 1884;
the total weight used was 26.4 pounds (33^ per cent Petite Sirah and 66|
per cent Cabernet Franc), yielding 1.53 gallons.
Fermentation of the crushed grapes began on the evening of October
first, at a temperature of 68.9° F., and reached its highest point on the
evening of the following day, at a temperature of 83.4° F. (temperature of
the room, 68° F.), then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar (69.8°
F.) on October eleventh, when the murk was drawn off", ten days from the
crushing.
This wine was racked from the lees on November 17, 1884; again racked
February 27, 1885, and lastly, in August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, I8S4. (Pohndorff.) The blend requires a third element in order to secure mel-
lowness and a true vinous flavor.
Report of Viticidtural Convention Committee, December, 1884. U. No. 312 is a successful com-
bination.
February 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Blend delicate in construction, but has suffered from
access of air owing to thin staves.
No. 319. Blend of Malbeck and Petite Sirah (Natoma).
The grapes used in this blend were in good condition; of the 27.5 pounds
crushed on September nineteenth, 80 per cent were Malbeck and 20 per
cent Petite Sirah, and yielded 2.5 gallons; pomace, 9.60 per cent.
Fermentation commenced on the evening of September twentieth, tem-
perature 71.6° F., and reached its maximum the following morning, at a
117
temperature of 74.3° F. (temperature of cellar, 70° F.), where it stood for
about thirty-six hours, then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar
(68° F.) on September twenty-seventh, when the murk was drawn off, nine
days from the crushing.
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 18, 1884; again
racked November 15, 1884; again April 23, 1885, and lastly, in August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Reriort of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 319. One fifth
Sirah to four fifths of Malbeck, although having apparently too small an addition of the
former to modify the nature and taste of the latter, seems to be a homogeneous mixture.
No. 330. Cabernet Franc and Mourastel (Natoma).
Grapes were worked on October 4, 1884, and were in good condition.
Twenty pounds were crushed, one half of each kind, and yielded 1.5 gal-
lons. Fermentation began on the evening of October 6, 1884, at a temper-
ature of 69.8° F. ; reached its highest point on the morning of October
eighth, at a temperature of 71.6° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), and re-
mained at that point during the day, then slowly fell to the temperature of
the cellar (66° F.) on October thirteenth, when the murk was drawn off,
nine days from the crushing. The wine was racked from the lees on
November 15, 1884 ; again racked April 23, 1885, and finally in August
following.
RECORD or TASTING.
November, ISS4. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine is slightly mouldy owing to Cabernet Franc
grapes being kept too long before using. Wine is seemingly adapted for improving a mid-
dle class claret. The mouldv taste prevents any special study of the blend in that direction.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISSj. U. No. 330. Blend of one
half Mourastel and one half Cabernet Franc has resulted in a full-flavored and deep-
colored wine, which needs diluting with a homogeneous light wine of high order, and
would then undoubtedly remain in a high category.
No. 311. Blend of Cabernet Franc (Natoma), Carignane (Pellet), Gross-
hlaue (Pellet), and Folic Blanche (Livermore).
Of the 22 pounds crushed on October 4, 1884, 63.7 per cent was Caber-
net Franc; 18.2 per cent Carignane, and 9.1 per cent each of Grossblaue
and Folle Blanche; yielding 2.20 gallons.
Fermentation began on the morning of October sixth, at a temperature
of 68° F., and reached its maximum on the following evening, at a temper-
ature of 72.5° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), where it stood for thirty-six
hours, then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar (67.1° F.), on
October 13, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the
crushing.
On October 25, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again racked
November twenty-sixth; again, February 27, 1885, and finally, in August
following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, IS84. (F. Pohndorxi.) Blend is of grjod type, but one can not judge of its
merits owing to taint of mould from Carignane grapes.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. 311, having 64 per cent
Cabernet Franc, 9 per cent of Grossblaue, 9 of Folle Blanche, and 18 of Carignane (the
latter grapes having imparted a slightly mouldy taste to the blend, impaired thereby in its
frank expression), seemed also measurably harmonious, showing that it is desirable to
study the proper combinations of these varieties in different proportions.
118
No. 313. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (Natoma), Mourastel (Natoma),
and Carignane (Pellet).
All the grapes used in this blend were in good condition, and were crushed
on October 4, 1884. The total amount of grapes was twenty pounds, of
which sixty per cent was Cabernet Sauvignon, and twenty per cent of each
of Mourastel and Carignane; the yield being 1.25 gallons.
Fermentation began on the morning of October sixth, at a temperature
of 68° F., reached its maximum on the evening of the next day at a tem-
perature of 71.6° F. (temperature of the cellar, 67° F.),and remained so for
about thirty-six hours, then gradually fell to the cellar temperature
(67.1° F.), on October 13, 1884, when the murk was drawn off, nine days
from the crushing.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 25, 1884; again racked
November 15, 1884; again on April 21, 1885, and lastly, in August same
year.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November I4, I884. (F. Pohndorff.) Blend not homogeneous but color good. Carbonic
acid still present. There is a slight taint of mould, probably from Carignane grapes.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I8S4. U. No. 313, Cabernet Sauvig-
non with 'Mourastel and Carignane, although the latter grape has imparted to it a taste of
mould, showed distinctly the adaptability of this combination, which it would be well to
continue trying in different proportions of the ingredients.
No. 321. Blend of Zinfandel and Mondeuse, from Natoma.
Grapes of both varieties were received on September 29, 1884, in quite
bad condition; those of the Zinfandel were so far gone that of four boxes
picked over but one half was fit for use. The total weight of grapes used
was 67.3 pounds, of which 60 per cent was Zinfandel and 40 per cent Mon-
deuse; the yield being 5.15 gallons; pomace not determined.
Fermentation of the crushed grapes began the evening of October first,
temperature 69.8° F., reaching its maximum of 70.7° F. (temperature of cel-
lar, 66° F.) on October third, then slowly fell to the temperature of the
cellar (68° F.) on October eighth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days
from the crushing.
On November 21, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again racked
March 2, 1885, and also in August following^
RECORD OF TASTING.
November I4, I884. (F. Pohndorff.) A sound wine of good type, Zinfandel being modified.
The color is good-but not very deep.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I884. U. No. 325, already mentioned
under the" head of Mondeuse, contains 40 per cent of the latter and CO per cent of Zinfan-
del. This sample illustrates the iitness for association of these two grapes. The mellow
taste of the blend is owing to a thorough amalgamation of the Mondeuse with the Zinfan-
del, and the improvement of the taste over that of the latter wine alone is evident. In
U. No. 322, consisting of one fourth Zinfandel, one fourth Mondeuse, one fourth Gross-
blaue, and one fourth Aramon, the proportioning of the first named grapes seems too
small. A larger amount of them will no doubt characterize the blend very favorably.
The acids in the blend, as it is, are too pungent and require softening or absorbing of the
acids which are most pronounced, by another variety. The studies with similar grapes
should be continued in future vintages, in order to reach a superior type in which Zin-
fandel will be a chief factor.
February 9, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Sample in keg well kept and developed ; color very
good. Tlie taste of the blend shows the necessity of a third medium to insure a satisfac-
tory type.
ifovember 20, 1885. (E. W. H.) Condition of sample bright, with very good color and
medium laody. Bouquet fairly developed ; acid somewhat high.
119
WINE BLENDS.
No. 332. Wine Blend.
Fifty per cent Zirifandel, from Charles Webb Howard, Lake County; 15
per cent Gi-enache, from Natoma Company; 20 per cent Petit Bouschet, from
Natoma Company; 15 per cent Bastardo, from Natorxia Company.
This blend was made from wines racked from their lees on October 7,
1884. The blend was racked again on February 28, 1885; again racked
August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, 1SS4- (Pohndorff.) A sound wine, but Zinfandel expression not conquered.
Type should be observed, however, to build blends of analogous characters for the pui'-
pose of studies in that direction.
February 9, 18S5. (Pohndorff.) A well preserved wine, but owing to some one of the
grapes having entered the blend in a slightly mouldy condition, the character can not well
be judged.
No. 317. Wine Blend.
Fifty per cent Aramon, Natoma Company; 50 per cent Zinfandel, Mar-
tinez, Contra Costa County.
The wine was racked and blend made October 11, 1884 ; blend again
racked November 14, 1884 ; again racked February 27, 1885, and lastly
in August following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November, 18S4- (Pohndorff.) The heavy character of Zinfandel is neither mitigated nor
improved by the addition of the Aramon ; there being too much of the latter.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 317. Aramon and
Zinfandel, reconsidered, showed a pretty good union of softened taste and harmonious,
proving Aramon in adequate proportion to be a useful material for blends with Zinfandel.
IT. No. 322, blend of equal parts of Grossblaue and Mondeuse added to blend 317, shows a
well-covered wine as to color, of mellow taste, with fine full astringencj^ and an expression
which is somewhat too loud, but shows the way whereon to reach satisfactory results by
continuation of studies in some similar direction. U. No. 331, composed of 30 parts of
Aramon with 26 of Crabb's Black Burgundy and 44 of Zinfandel, constitutes another satis-
factory combination.
B.— DRY WHITE WINES.
SEMILLON.
The Semillon is grown chiefly in the Bordeaux region, where it forms
the main ingredient of the Sauterne type of wines, usually blended with
the Sauvignon Blanc, and more or less of the Muscadelle. The Semillon
vine is a strong grower, and at the same time a good bearer; a somewhat
rare combination. It is, therefore, specially adapted to the hill lands, where
it produces well and lasts a long time. Few grapes of high quality give
such satisfactory results on dry and relatively meager soil. The Sauvignon,
while its peer in high qualities, is not nearly so vigorous, and not so well
adapted to the hill lands, which are indispensable to the production of the
"great wines." It is always pruned long; it matures medium late, and is
somewhat liable to decay notwithstanding its rather thick skin; is some-
what used as a table grape, but would not bear shipment to a great distance.
The grapes sent from the Natoma Vineyard were obviously true to name.
It is reported to be a small bearer; growth of medium vigor. It was gath-
ered fairly ripe on September sixth, and fully ripe on September seven-
teenth, at the same time as Sauvignon Blanc.
120 '
Two lots of this grape were received in good condition, one (No. 251) on
September ninth, witli 18.89 per cent of sugar, and a second one September
nineteenth, showing 20.99 per cent sugar. Both were crvished on the days
when received. The yield from the first lot (No. 251) of 38.9 pounds was
3.04 gallons, or at the rate of 156.04 gallons per ton; pomace, 23.31 per cent.
The second lot (No. 252) of 61.2 pound's yielded 4.23 gallons, corre-
sponding to 138.2 gallons per ton; pomace, 30.86 per cent.
Fermentation of No. 251 commenced on the evening of September twelfth
at 70.7° F. temperature, and reached its maximum on the evening of Sep-
tember fourteenth at 73.4° F. temperature (temperature of cellar, 70° F.) , then
fell slowly to the temperature of the cellar (68° F.), on September twentieth.
The young wine was racked from the lees on September twenty-third;
again on November 18, 1884; again on February 27, 1885, and lastly in
August, 1885.
The fermentation of No. 252 began on the morning of September twenty-
second at a temperature of 71.6° F., and reached its maximum on the even-
ing of September twenty-third, temperature 82.4° F., then fell gradually to
the cellar temperature, 69.8° F., on September twenty-eighth.
The wine was racked from the lees on October seventh, then on Novem-
ber 14, 1884; again on March 2, 1885, when a sample for analysis was taken,
and also in August following.
SAUVIGNON (BLANC).
The culture of the Sauvignon is more widely distributed than that of the
Semillon, as it forms not only an important ingredient of the wines of the
Sauterne type in the Gironde, but is also well known southward to the Pyr-
enees, northward to the Loire, and eastward to the Rhone. Being only of
fair vigor and rather, a shy bearer, but of high quality, it is chiefly used
in blending with both red and white wines of other varieties, to which it
imparts its fine and delicate flavor, while at the same time losing the slight
harshness that characterizes its wines during the first years. The Sau\ag-
non is pruned short at Sauterne, and this should be done wherever the soil
is not rich, as otherwise the vine is too soon exhausted. It ripens some-
what after the middle of the season. At Natoma the grape was gathered
fairly ripe on September sixth, fully ripe on September seventeenth, with
the Semillon, and overripe on September thirtieth. It is reported to be not
quite as good a bearer as the Semillon, but of quite a vigorous growth.
Three lots of this variety were received from Natoma. The first lot, No.
253, on September ninth, in good condition, with 21.22 per cent of sugar;
second lot, No. 254, on September nineteenth, having quite a large amount
of the grapes dried almost to raisins, and showing 20.99 per cent of sugar;
and the third lot. No. 255, on 'October 2, 1884, in bad condition, only a few
being good enough for use; amount of sugar not determined.
The yield of must from the first lot (No. 253) of 52.14 pounds, was 3.7
gallons, or at the rate of 141.91 gallons per ton; pomace, 28.78 per cent. The
yield from the second lot (No. 254) of 115.5 pounds, was 8.6 gallons, cor-
responding to 148.7 gallons per ton; pomace, 24.81 per cent. The yield
from the third lot (No. 255) of 34.1 pounds, was 2.38 gallons, correspond-
ing to 139.1 gallons per ton; pomace, 27.6 per cent.
It thus appears that the sugar of the grape had certainly not increased,
and perhaps had decreased a little, after it had reached maturity, and that
the yield of must was greater at " full ripeness" than either before or after-
ward.
The fermentation of No. 253 began on the evening of September twenty-
121
first, at a temperature of 73.4° F., and reached its maximum on September
twenty-third, at a temperature of 80.6° F., then gradually fell to the cellar
temperature of 68° F. on September twenty-ninth. The wine was racked from
the lees on October third; again on February 25, 1885, and also in August
following.
The fermentation of No. 254 commenced on the morning of September
eleventh, at a temperature of 72.5° F., reaching its maximum on the morn-
ing of September fourteenth, at a temperature of 77.9° F. (temperature of
cellar, 68° F.), and then gradually fell to the cellar temperature of 68° F., on
September 20, 1884. This sample of wine was racked from the lees on
September twenty-third; again on February 25, 1885, and in August fol-
lowing.
Fermentation of No. 255 began on the evening of October third, at a
temperature of 68° F., reaching its maximum on the evening of October
fourth, at a temperature of 71.6° F., then fell very slowly to the temperature
of the cellar, 67° F., on October tenth. The wine was racked from the lees
on October fourteenth; again on March 7, 1885, and in August following.
MUSCADELLE DU BORDELAIS.
The Muscadelle du Bordelais is cultivated only within a restricted area
of southwestern France, and even there forms only a small proportion in
the vineyards, as its use is mainly for blends with the Semillon and Sau-
vignon, in the production of Sauterne wines, and, to some extent, for the
fine liqueur wines of Monbazillac, and a few other localities. Its Muscat
perfume is very light and delicate, sometimes almost imperceptible in the
grape, but coming out in the wines of which it forms a part. Its growth is
vigorous, and it is very productive, even under short prvming. The bunch
is rather large, sometimes loose, sometimes compact and crowded; the berry
of medium size, with a delicate .skin, and, therefore, subject to rot. It ma-
tures about the middle of the vintage, with the vSemillon and Sauvignon.
From Natoma the compact variety is reported as being a rather light
bearer, of good vigor, with small bunches and berries; ripening about mid-
dle of September. The loose hunched variety is reported to be a fair bearer,
of medium vigor; having small or fair sized bunches, with medium berries.
The time of ripening is about the same as that of the compact variety.
The two varieties of this grape arrived on September 19, 1884, and were
immediately worked. The first variety (No. 256) of loose bunches had 22.23
per cent of sugar, and the second (No. 257) of compact hunches showed 22.67
per cent.
The yield from 112.64 pounds of loose hunches (No. 256) was 9.56 gallons
or at the rate of 169.81 gallons per ton; pomace, 26.15 per cent.
The yield from 122.54 pounds of compact hunches (No. 257) was 7.66 gal-
lons, corresponding to 125.15 gallons per ton; pomace, 31.54 per cent.
The fermentation of the former variety commenced on the morning of
September twenty-first, at a temperature of 72.5° F., and reached its maxi-
mum on the next morning at a temperature of 80.6° F. (temperature of the
room, 70° F.) , then fell very slowly to the temperature of the cellar (68° F.) on
October second. This wine was racked from the lees October 7, 1884; again
on November 26, 1884, and on February 26, 1885; analyzed on March 12,
1885. Fermentation of the latter began at the same time as that of the
loose hunched variety, and was completed under the same conditions.
This wine was racked from the lees on October 11, 1884; again on Novem-
ber thirtieth, and on February twenty-sixth, and on September, 1885; anal-
ysed on March 12, 1885.
122
No. 299. Blend of Semillon and Sauvignon. The total weight of grapes
used in making this blend was 52.14 pounds, of which two parts were
Semillon and one Sauvignon; the yield being 3.96 gallons, or at the rate of
153.2 gallons per ton; pomace, 21.60 per cent.
Fermentation began on the evening of September eleventh, at a temper-
ature of 70.4° F., and reached its maximum on September fourteenth, at a
temperature of 75.2° F., remaining so for that day, then fell very gradually
to the temperature of the cellar (68.2° F.) on September 20, 1884.
This wine was racked from the lees on September 23, 1884; again on
January 8, 1885, and once more in September, 1885.
No. 300. Blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle du Bordelais.
The total weight of grapes used was 161.92 pounds, of which three parts
were Semillon, one part Sauvignon Blanc, and one part Muscadelle du
Bordelais (one half loose and one half compact bunches) ; the yield being
11.28 gallons from the above amount.
Fermentation began on the morning of September twenty-first, at a tem-
perature of 73.4° F., reaching its maximum the same evening, at a temper-
ature of 78.8° F. (temperature of cellar, 70° F.), remaining so for about
twenty-four hours, then gradually falling to the temperature of the cellar
(68° F.) on October 3, 1884.
On October 7, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again on Novem-
ber fifteenth, and on February 26, 1885, and in September, 1885.
Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I884. Among the white wine varie-
ties considered novelties, Semillon was represented by three samples. Mr. J. H. Drum-
mond, in No. 29, shows his third small vintage; and Mr. Crabb, in 190, his 1883 well
developed wine from that grape— University No. 252 the second vintage from the Semillon
vine. The results from this grape prove qualitatively a notable success, and the undoubted
advisability of the propagation in our coast counties, and by those aiming at and capable
of the production of high-class light wines. The bearing power at Natoma thus far is
small.
For the purpose of Sauterne character wines the Sauvignon Blanc, represented by Uni-
versity samples Nos. 253, 254, and 255, which are of very acceptable quality and exquisite
flavor, is to be planted conjointly with the Semillon. The Natoma plant, Sauvignon Blanc,
is a small bearer. However, its quality is superior to the Sauvignon Vert, of which No.
189 is a sample of Mr. Crabb's 1883, the quality of which was acknowledged to be very satis-
factory. U. No. 299 blend of two thirds Semillon and one third Sauvignon Blanc is a success,
although sulphur flavor impairs the bouquet and taste of the same.
University sample No. 250, Muscadelle du Bordelais, of loose bunches and large berries,
and U. No. 257, the same variety name, but of compact bunches and small berries, showed
both a delicate fruit flavor, the'first of the two of the higher expression, the taste of both
remarkably clean.
No. 25G, the preferable one of the two, will be a most welcome addition to our vines
productive of decided flavor. For the perfection of the Sauterne-type wine, that grape
will have to be considered indispensable.
University sample No. 300, noted in the catalogue erroneously as Semillon, called atten-
tion for its excellent quality in all regards. It is a blend of 50 per cent Semillon, 25 per
cent Sauvignon Blanc, 12i per cent Muscadelle du Bordelais, of large berries, and 12i per
cent Muscadelle du Bordelais, of compact bunches. This conibinedly-fermented sample
held a good place, its youth, of course, considered, against the imported cheapest Sauterne,
with which it was contrasted in the hall. It may be arrogant to rebel against the artificial
retention of part of the saccharine matter of the French Sa\iterne wines, sanctioned by
commercial usage; but we are of the opinion that the system had best not be followed in
California.
A perfect fermentation will enable us to render our future Sauterne-type wines of
superior quality ; and for hygienic reasons we should adopt simply the natural and intel-
ligent way of a clean fermentation and nursing of that type of wine.
February 5, 1S85. (Pohndorif.) Seniillon and Sauvignon Blanc blend, not touched since
November fourteenth, is remarkably well developed ; taste very good, as well as expression.
A portion in keg has suffered considerably from the thin staves.
Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle blend, in keg, has built itself up very well, and is
123
unimpaired by the influence of the air through the thin staves, while another sample, of
similar composition, has suffered irredeemably from that cause.
Sauvig^ion Blanc, in bottles, has developed well.
The same, in a five-gallon keg, has a fine taste; has cleared remarkably well, and has a
good bouquet.
The same, in a small keg, has suffered so much that it cannot be judged.
Muscadelle du Bordelais of compact bunches, in a large flask, is remarkably well devel-
oped, with fine taste and bouquet. Same in keg likewise well developed, fine taste and
flavor.
Muscadelle du Bordelais of loose bunches, in kegs, is well preserved, but the smell of sul-
phur from the grapes influences it too strongly to judge of it, as it also holds a good deal
of carbonic acid gas.
March 11, 1SS5. Semillon. No. 252. (E. W. H.) Sample taken for analysis. Pale topaz
color, condition nearly clear, bouquet very decided and prominent in tasting; acid light
pleasant, and body rather heavy. Excellent vinous taste and development remarkably
well advanced for its age.
March 12, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) Mnscadelle du Bordelais. No. 257. (Compact bunches.) Con-
dition clear; dark topaz tint; bouquet pronounced, very agreeable, and a remarkably
nutty flavor; acidity light, pleasant.
Sauvignon Blanc. No. 254. Condition clear; color white or pale topaz; bouquet faint as
yet but very agreeable; somewhat covered by sulphur; acid light and pleasant; body
lighter than Semillon or Muscadelle.
Novemher 20, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) A comparative tasting of the Sauvignon wines made
from three successive invoices of grapes sent from Natoma, gathered respectively on Sep-
tember sixth, seventeenth, and thirtieth, and numbered 253, 254, and 255. So far as known
all these were treated alike. All alike are clear, but the color of No. 255 is decidedly more
yellowish than the earlier samples. The earliest, No. 253, has most decidedly the Sauterne
character, and is at present the best developed of the three. No. 254 is much more feebly
developed and lacks character, being very soft and both acid and bouquet very light. No.
255, from grapes that were overripe and partly dried, has lost the Sauterne character and
resembles more, in its present condition, the wine of the Palomino or Pedro Jimenes, with
heavier body, high bouquet, and the nutty aftertaste of a sherry grape.
Semillon. Of the two samples received, the wine from the earlier grapes, No. 251, was so
much injured by the thin staves of the keg in which it passed its first months, that it can
not be judged, being too far acetified ; but the peculiar bouquet and softness of the grape
can even yet be noted.
The second sample. No. 252, from grapes gathered September seventeenth, is well devel-
oped, though not as fully as the Sauvignons, owing partly, perhaps, to its having been kept
in glass for some months. While the bouquet is not very full it has a decided nutty after-
taste. Its acid is a little too high. Evidently is is a more delicate wine to keep than the
Sauvignon.
Muscadelle du Bordelais. Both varieties — that from the compact as well as that from the
loose-bunched grapes — are clear, almost bright; bouquet very pronounced and natural
aroma very strong in both, but that from the compact bunches is more rounded and agree-
able to the palate.
Blend of Sauvignon, Semillon, and Muscadelle (" ChatesLU Yquem Blend"). Finely devel-
oped, round, and expressive; much superior to either of the pure wines, unless it be the
Sauvignon No. 253, which would be acceptable just as it is.
ANALYSES.
1883.
J.H.Drum-
mond.
Semillon.
Natoma Company — 1884.
No. 251
Semillon.
No. 252.
Semillon,
No. 254.
Sauvignon
Blanc.
No. 255.
Sauvignon
Blanc.
No. 256.
Muscadelle
du Bordelais.
No. 257.
Muscadelle
du Bordelais.
Must.
Sugar by spindle.. -
Acid
Wine.
Body
Acid
Ash
10.58
8.48
1.52
.38
99
18.89
.54
20.99
.42
12.36
9.92
1.93
.45
.18
22.20
.53
12.36
9.92
2.10
.45
.16
12.75
10.26
2.18
.55
.19
22.93
.37
14.00
11.46
2.13
.43
.21
22.67
.53
13.27
10.81
2.44
.50
.34
124
No. 258. FoLLE Blanche,
A white grape, greatly resembling this variety, received from France
under the erroneous name of Tannat.
Grapes were received in much crushed and partly damaged condition,
and were worked on October 2, 1884, showing 21.97 per cent of sugar.
From the 126 pounds crushed, 10.91 gallons were obtained, correspond-
ing to 173.11 gallons per ton; pomace, 23.39 per cent.
Fermentation started on October second, and continued quietly until
finished. The young wine was racked from the lees on October 14, 1884,
again on February 26, 1885, and lastly in August following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1SS4- Nos. 25, 127, and University
No. 258, Folle Blanche wines, there is discernable in the three samples the character of a
light wine of considerable body and mellow taste. Quality not high, but the utilization
of the Folle Blanche juice for blending with red-wine grapes, seems indicated in several
of the red wine samples having that juice in their composition.
February 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) This wine, which had two rackings since middle of Octo-
ber last, is good, and has depurated itself well. The same in another (smaller) keg is
remarkably well advanced in development, and has a good taste.
March 17, 1885. (E. W. H.) Condition in keg, clear; in bottle, slightly turbid; color,
topaz; a rather heavy body; fruity and vinous flavor, and strong, agreeable bouquet;
acid, decided but pleasant; quality appears to be altogether above that of a Folle Blanche
wine — more of a southern type. A sample for analysis was taken at this time.
November 20, 1885. Bright condition; bouquet and vinous flavor well developed, with a
decided nutty aftertaste.
ANALYSIS.
Mxist.
Sugar by spindle 22.10
Acid 66
Alcohol : <
Wine.
Volume-.- - : 12.36
Weight 9.92
Body 1.66
Acid - - .59
Ash -- 21
BURGER.
The Burger, properly so called, is a grape of the northern part of the wine
belt of Europe, and the grape passing under that name in California has
been associated, both in the vineyards and cellars, with the (true) Riesling,
the Gutedel or Chasselas, and other Rhenish grapes. Among these, it is
in Europe held in but very light estimation as to quality, though known to
produce large quantities of a light acid wine, poor in alcohol. Among its
names is that of White Elbling; the Blue Elbling, largely cultivated by
Mr. L. J. Rose at vSan Gabriel, being held to be one of its varieties.
However similar to the true Burger, or Kleinberger, in respect to the
wine it yields, especially in northern localities, the California grape differs
from the German type as well as from the Blue Elbling. From a com-
parison with a grape imported by Mr. Groezinger, Mr. Wetmore identi-
fies our grape with the white Tokay, also known as Putszcheere, and
Elender; both names indicative of no very high estimate of the quality of
the variety, which seems to represent the Burger in Hungary. It is certain
that the California- Burger yields its best product in the hotter parts of the
State, as Fresno and San Gabriel, and it is interesting to note the obvious
effect of this transposition, which, however, appears similarly in the 1885
Burger from Lake County, as is shown in the table below. For farther
125
comparison are subjoined the analyses of wines from the Blue Elbling*
•(which is by German ampelographers accounted as a mere variety of the
white Burger or Elbling) from the same locality (San Gabriel) as one of
the Burger wines.
BUEGER WINES.
Body
Vintage
o
Alcohol.
>
>
Grower.
i
1
Ghas. Krug
St. Helena...- 1
Patchen ]
Lower Lake... :
Vina 1
880 1.25
885 1.52
885 1.68
885 2.69
885 1.93
883 2.24
884 *3.02
884 2.16
884 2.05
7.24
4.76
8.84
9.63
8.13
9.12
8.98
9.20
11.00
9.00
6.00
11.00
12.00
10.16
11.36
1L17
11.42
13.42
162
225
183
450
192
367
255
308
264
56"?
D. C. Frely -
480
M. Keatinge
540
Gov. Stanford
675
C. Weller
Barton
Harrisburg ...
Fresno
Fresno
San Gabriel ...
San Gabriel ... 1
.645
487
Barton ..
495
Rose --
397
Rose, Blue Elbling
.527
* Contained some unconverted sugar.
The first in the above list is perhaps an extreme example of the charac-
ter of the Burger wines in the cooler parts of the State. The body and ash
are extraol'dinarily low, as is the alcohol percentage for California at least;
while the acid is quite full, for a white wine especially. Yet this wine, by
an oversight left to itself under very adverse circumstances, has kept, and
has acquired a respectable bouquet. The same, by the way, is true of a
white wine made from Charbono in the same year, whose alcohol percent-
age is actually two per cent lower than that of the Burger; proving that
certain wines will keep in our coast climate despite what is commercially
considered an inadmissibly low content of spirit, f
Of the 1885 Burger from Patchen, Santa Clara County, it can at this time
only be said that its excessive acid and low alcoholic contents render its
wine altogether too harsh to the palate, and at most fit for some kinds of
blends. The high elevation at which it was produced explains the fact
that in a year of high sugar percentages it attained no higher contents than
are shown above, at the end of October; showing that the grape is not
adapted to that climate, while Riesling from the same locality shows a sat-
isfactory composition in all respects.
The Fresno Burgers of 1883 and 1884 range closely together in respect to
alcohol percentage, and that from San Gabriel scarcely differs materially.
They run a little above nine per cent by weight or eleven by volume, and
considering the latitude in which they were grown, are certainly light
wines; yet they are known to be of good keeping qualities, and with their
full, but not excessive or unpleasant acid, are sure to improve with age —
as experience has shown to be the case.
The southern Burgers have a considerably heavier body than that from
Napa. Barton's 1884 runs so high in this respect, as to be even with the
Zinfandels, and has a deeper color than is usually seen; perhaps in conse-
quence of a slight fermentation of the must on the skins.
* It is greatly to be desired that before the misnomer becomes inveterate, the so called
"Blue Elba" should be called "Elbling," as it has no relation to the Italian island of
Elba, but to the German river Elbe, and is a northern grape.
t Most of the wines made in 1880, at the Viticultural Laboratory, range lower in alcohol
than the average of succeeding years.
126
Few will expect the Burger to yield a first-class wine anywhere, but being
a prolific bearer, easily fermented, and a good keeper, it seems eminently,
adapted to the production of light and pleasant second and third-class wines
which may be consumed as are the country wines in Europe, without any risk
of intoxication — an excellent substitute for the fierj'', heady Mission wines of
yore. The uses of the Burger in carrpng other musts safely through their
fermentation are too well known to need comment.
The Sibling of San Gabriel, though a light-bodied wine like the Burger,
and quite full in acid also, is a much more alcoholic wine, and in other
respects of a somewhat different type. Whether this is due to the influence
of a different location, or whether its relationship to the white Burger is not
as close as has been supposed, remains to be determined hereafter.
No. 261. Burger. From R. Barton, Fresno. Grapes arrived on Octo-
ber 13, 1884, and were worked up the same day. Percentage of sugar,
19.96.
This grape is much more yellowish when ripe than the Napa Burger, and
very much sweeter, but equally juicy and tender to overflowing. Bunches
much larger, some eleven to twelve inches.
The yield from 20.5 pounds crushed was 1.25 gallons, corresponding to
121.10 gallons per ton of grapes. Fermentation began at a temperature of
66.2° F. on the morning of October fifteenth, and reached its maximum dur-
ing the next morning at a temperature of 70.7° F. (temperature of cellar,
67° F.), and remained at that point for the day, then slowly fell to the tem-
perature of the cellar (68° F.) on October eighteenth. On November
twenty-first the young wine was racked from the lees; was again racked on
April 24, 1885. It was analyzed on February 11, 1885.
No. 260. Burger. From L. J. Rose, San Gabriel. These grapes were
received in good condition, and were worked on October 9, 1884, showing
19.15 per cent of sugar. The yield from 19.6 pounds crushed was 1.45
gallons, corresponding to 148.4 gallons per ton; pomace, 13.76 per cent.
The fermentation started on the morning of October 10, 1884, at a tem-
perature of 66.2° F., and reached its maximum of 75.2° F. (temperature of
cellar, 67.1° F.) on October 13, 1884, and stood so for the day; then fell
quite rapidly to the cellar temperature of 68° F. on October 16, 1884.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; was racked
again November fourteenth, taking sample for the Convention exhibit.
March 10, 1885, it was again racked, and on April fourteenth tasted and
analyzed.
EECOED OF TASTING.
Report of ViticuUural Convention Committee, December, 1884- Burger wines, U. No. 260,
from San Gabriel grapes, U. No. 261, from Fresno grapes, 119, ditto, do not show high quality.
April 14,1885. (E. W. H.) No. 260 is clear, white, or very jiale topaz tint, with fair body
and quite a pronounced agreeable bouquet and vinous flavor, indicating remarkably quiclc
maturity; acid, rather pronounced, but agreeable; a pleasant, light table wine.
ROUSSANNE.
The Roussanne is not a grape of wide distribution. It is most exten-
sively cultivated in Savoy, and more or less in the adjacent departments of
Isere and Drome, forming in the latter an essential ingredient of the noted
vineyards of the Hermitage, in the wines of which its product is mostly
blended with that of the Marsanne. The Rousanne wines of Savoy have
a peculiar perfume similar to that of the Hermitage wines; they keep
indefinitely, improve greatly with age, and acquire remarkable qualities.
127
Near Chambery the wine, when bottled in March, is of a liqueur character,
but becomes dry after several rackings from the cask; they are classed in
the first r^nk.
The Roussanne is of good Adgor, and is usually pruned short, yielding its
best product under that treatment. It seems specially adapted to the steep
and warm hillsides of the Rhone. The berry is of medium size, nearly
globular, rather thick-skinned, at full maturity assuming a golden or even
reddish-yellow tint. It is rather firm-fleshed, but juicy and sweet, without
special aroma; matures late in the second period.
From Natoma the Roussanne is reported to be a fair bearer and of good
vigor. It was gathered, fairly ripe, on September sixteenth, which places
it among the earlier grapes of the second period, being markedly earlier
than in its original home.
The grape was received in good condition on September seventeenth, and
was crushed the next day, showing 22.58 per cent of sugar. The yield
from 192.06 pounds was 13.79 gallons, or at the rate of 148.06 gallons per
ton; pomace, 25.8 per cent. The grape corresponded accurately to the
French description.
Fermentation began early on September twenty-first, the cellar tempera-
ture being at 70° F, and reached its maximum of 75.2° F. on the following
morning, remaining at this point about forty-eight hours, and falling to the
cellar temperature of 68° F. on September thirtieth.
The wine was racked from the lees on October fifteenth ; again on Novem-
ber twenty-second; again on February 27, 1885, and finally in August fol-
lowing.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 15, 1SS4- (PohndorfF.) Sample in ten-gallon keg. An excellent type of a mild-
tasting wine, but not apparently adapted for drinking unblended.
December 7, Report of ViticHltural Convention Committee. No. 193 and U. Nos. 203 Mar-
sanne and U. 232 Roussanne are two excellent types of Hermitage white wines of fine
bouquet and mellow frank taste; acids grateful. These varieties are adapted for blend-
ing with certain red grapes for red wines, as well as for white wines direct; are to be
recommended for adoption in our vineyards.
Febniarv 0, 1SS5. (Pohndorff.) Sample in ten-gallon keg well developed, and the wine
of excellent quality. Two other samples, in bottles, are similar to that in the keg. Sample
in a small keg has suffered from the thinness of the staves.
March 11. (E. W. H.) The condition of the wine is clear, the color white or light topaz ;
the bouquet faint as yet, but very agreeable, with full vinous flavor; acid full, somewhat
less than the Marsanne.
For analysis see table following Clairette Blanche.
MAKSANNE.
The geographical distribution of the Marsanne is very nearly the same
as that of the Roussanne, above given. Its wines fall considerably below
those of the Roussanne in quality, but as the vine is very vigorous, and at
the same time a heavy bearer, even under short pruning, it is in favor with
the vintners of the region, and serves, as before remarked, as a blend for the
Roussanne, and also, in small proportions, with the red wines from the
Sirah and other varieties.
The Marsanne bears large bunches, somewhat straggling; its berries are
rather small, with a thin and rather delicate skin, which remains of a
greenish-white color where not much exposed to the sun, but assumes a fine
golden hue under good exposure. Flesh soft, juicy, sweet, and agreeable,
without special aroma. Maturity in the third period.
From Natoma the Marsanne is reported to be of good vigor and a fair
bearer. The grapes were gathered, fairly ripe, on September sixteenth,
being far ahead in maturity of the time assigned to the variety in France.
128
The grapes were received September seventeenth and worked on the eigh-
teenth, showing 21.2 per cent of sugar: 93.12 pounds of grapes yielded 6.85
gallons of must, corresponding to 141.6 gallons per ton; percentage of
pomace, 25.11.
Fermentation began in the night of September twentieth, and reached
the maximum of 82.4° F. on the morning of September twenty-third, then
gradually fell to the cellar temperature on October second ; showing a violent
fermentation, markedly different from that of the Roussanne, in which the
maximum of temperature was 7° F. lower, but lasted much longer. This
difference is the more remarkable as the quantity of grapes was in the Mar-
sanne only half of that used in the case of the Roussanne; and this case
illustrates forcibly the need of knowing and taking into account the pecu-
liarities of each grape in the fermentation of its must. It is evident that
Roussanne must might be safely fermented in much larger packages than
that of the Marsanne, without endangering the life of its yeast germs by
too great a rise of temperature. In French practice both are usually fer-
mented together, so that their peculiarities are balanced in their joint
fermentation.
The wine was racked from its lees on October twenty-eighth, having been
much slower in clearing than the Roussanne. It was again racked on
November twenty-second; again on February eighteenth, and also in
August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
There is no record of the first tasting, in November, the condition of the wine being
then hardly clear enough for a proper judgment.
For Report of Committee of Viticultttral Convention, see above, under Roussanne.
February 11, 1SS5. (Pohndorff.) Marsanne in bottles since last racking has had a very
satisfactory, even rapid, development; the wine is clear, and its quality very good. The
same in kegs has suffered somewhat from the effect of the thin staves.
March 11, 18S5. (E. W. H.) The condition of the wine is not quite clear; the bouquet
has developed decidedly, and the flavor is vinous and agreeable, the acid is adequate, and
the wine as a whole is agreeable, though not equal in quality to that of the Roussanne.
For analysis, see table following Clairette Blanche.
CLAIRETTE BLANCHE.
The Clairette Blanche belongs altogether to southern France, within the
region of olive culture; from below Valence on the Rhone, to the Mediter-
ranean coast and along the same from Nice to the Spanish frontier.
Within this region it has been extensively cultivated from ancient times to
the present. It is used not only to impart delicacy and spirit to red wines,
but also by itself produces the wine commercially known as Picardan, as
well as others locally designated as " Clairette." It is used for both dry
and sweet wines. For the latter it is allowed to become overripe and
shriveled on the vines. It is, besides, highly esteemed as a table grape. It
bears transportation well, being firm-fleshed, crisp, sweet, and agreeably
flavored.
The hardiness and vigorous growth of the Clairette are proverbial in
southern France. No variety is longer lived, giving good crops even when
old, and has resisted longer than any other southern variety the attacks of
the phylloxera. It adapts itself readily to all soils, provided they are deep;
on shallow, stony ground it is soon exhausted. On soils of the latter char-
acter it should receive very short pruning; on rich and deep soils, on the
contrary, such treatment would tend to the development of suckers instead
of fruit.
The berry is rather small, of an olive shape, and from greenish to yel-
129
lowisli white, according to the degree of maturity. It ripens late (third
period).
From Natoma it is reported as being of vigorous growth and a heavy
bearer. It was gathered September twenty-third, fully ripe. The grapes
were received in excellent condition at the University, and were crushed
September twenty-fifth, showing at the time 21.1 per cent of sugar. The
berries were somewhat smaller than in the figure given in the " Vignobles,"
but otherwise agree fully with the description.
The yield of must from 175.6 pounds crushed was 9.3 gallons, or at the
rate of 106.05 gallons per ton, a remarkably low figure; pomace, 44.1 per
cent. Fermentation started on the evening of September twenty-sixth, at
a temperature of 65.3° F., and reached its maximum during the next evening
at 73.4° F. (that of the cellar being 69° F.), and retained that temperature
for forty-eight hours, when it slowly fell to the cellar temperature, on October
third. The young wine was racked from the lees on October seventeenth.
It had cleared remarkably well, and deposited but very little sediment
afterwards, so that the second racking was deferred until February twelfth.
The high qualities of the wine very soon became apparent, the development
of its lively and full bouquet being very rapid and striking. No detailed
notes of the earliest tasting are on record.
RECORD OF TASTING,
December 7, Report of Viticultural Convention Committee. University sample No. 264,
Clairette Blanche, from Folsom grapes, was among the wines most remarked. Its high
qualities invite the propagation of the variety on a more than moderate scale.
February 9, 1SS5. ( Pohndorff. ) Clairette Blanche in five-gallon keg has developed rapidly,
though suffering somewhat froni the effects of the thin keg staves.
A sample in full bottle is in good preservation and bright, though not as far advanced
in development as the keg sample.
A remnant, kept in a loosely stoppered bottle since November, although suffering some-
what from access of air, has developed finely the fruity expression of the grape.
March 17, 18S5. (E. W. H.) Sample from'keg is clear, almost bright; color, white. The
bouquet is decided and very agreeable, the acidity moderate but adequate, the body
medium heavy. For its age "the full vinosity of the sample is remarkable.
The subjoined analyses refer to the wines as last tasted, having been
made in March, 1885 :
Variety.
Must.
Wine.
No.
^2.
5"
B §
1 s-
>
p
E
a.
>
1;°
1 '<
>
S g"
"°
<
i
264
36'>
Clairette Blanche
Eoussanne -
Sept. 25.
Sept. 18-
Sept- 18
21.34
22.60
21.38
.453
.420
.423
1.8.50
1..35H
1.880
10..540
10.540
9.200
18.000
13.000
11.460
.428
.468
?,fv\
Marsanne
.563
It will be noted above that at the same date the Roussanne had about
one and a quarter per cent more sugar than the Marsanne, and exceeded
to the same extent the Clairette, gathered a week later. The latter, how-
ever, slightly exceeds the others in the acid of the must.
In the transformation into wine, the Clairette has lost some acid, while
both the others have increased it somewhat, the Marsanne most, yet not to
excess. In body the Roussanne appears singularly low, while both the
others show about the usual body of dry white wines of the more southern
9^
130
class. In alcoholic strength the Marsanne falls singularly below the other
two, notwithstanding that by the spindle indication its sugar was the same
as that of the Clairette. Similar discrepancies have been heretofore noted,
and may be connected with the peculiarly violent fermentation of the
Marsanne.
Of the three wines, the Clairette is at this time unquestionably the far-
thest advanced towards acceptableness; and this rapid development will
largely balance its low yield of must in the profits to be derived from its
culture.
No. 265. A ivhite grape, which came from France, misnamed Pecoui
Touar, the latter being a red grape. This grape has rather large, compact
bunches, a very juicy berry, above medium size, and of slightly oblong
shape ; not very sweet.
From Natoma it is reported to be a good bearer, with good vigor, and
among the latest in ripening.
The grapes, when received, were to a large extent mouldy, and other-
wise damaged. After careful picking they were worked on October tenth,
when they showed 19.75 per cent of sugar.
The yield from 62.92 pounds crushed was 4.17 gallons, or at the rate of
132.7 gallons per ton; pomace, 25.18 per cent.
Fermentation began on the morning of October 11, 1884, at a tempera-
ture of 66.2" F.; reached its maximum on the morning of October four-
teenth, at a temperature of 75.2° F. (temperature of room, 67° F.), where it
stood for the day; then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar (68° F.),
on October seventeenth.
On October 22, 1884, the wine was racked from the lees; again on Feb-
ruary 20, 1885, and also in August following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 18S4- U. No. 265, Pecoui Touar, is
wrongly named. The name belongs to a grape of red wine. This variety, at Natoma, a
white grape, yields a good wine, of decidedly generous, hot character, available, probably,
for sherry blends.
April 14,1885. (E. W. H.) The condition is nearly clear; color, white or pale topaz; the
body lightish; acid, light and pleasant; flavor, vinous, and remarkably well developed;
bouquet, high and agreeable.
Whatever may be the true name of this grape, it deserves attention, both for white wines
direct and for blending with reds. The character of its wine approaches nearly that of
one of the Spanish sherry varieties, such as Palomino.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - 20. 18
Acid -- ---- --- .48
Wine.
Ai^^T,^!. ] Volume -- 11.50
Alcohol: {^gigl^^ _ 9.27
Body 1.66
Acid - - 57
Ash - - - --- .23
C— SHERRY AND MADEIRA VARIETIES.
No. 266. Pedro Jimenes.
The Pedro Jimenes is one of the most highly esteemed wine grapes of
Spain, and enters largely into the celebrated wines of Malaga, Jeres, San
Lucar, etc. It belongs decidedly to the warmer climates only, such as
131
southern France, Spain, and Algeria, and its success in the coast counties
of CaHfornia should, therefore, be doubtful. The vine being exceedingly
productive requires short pruning and a fertile soil, since otherwise it would
soon be exhausted.
This beautiful grape, which assumes a fine golden tint when fully ripe,
is reported from Natoma as being a medium bearer with like vigor, having
fair-sized and loose bunches with fair-sized berries; ripening during the first
week of October; agrees well with Pulliat's description.
This variety was worked on October 10, 1884, and showed 20.61 per cent
of sugar. From 56.54 pounds crushed, 4.3 gallons were obtained, corre-
sponding to 152.33 gallpns per ton; pomace, 20.24 per cent.
Fermentation started on the morning of October 11, 1884, at a tempera-
ture of 68.0° F., reached its heighth on October 14, 1884, at a temperature of
71.6° F. (temperature of the cellar, 67° F.), then slowly fell to the cellar
temperature of 68° F. on October sixteenth.
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; again
racked November twenty-third, again in February 18, 1885, and lastly in
August. Analysis of wine was made on April 14, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November I4, 1884- (F. Pohndorif.) Wine as yet undeveloped, but sound.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I8S4. U. No. 266, Pedro Jimenes
wine, from one of the finest of the sherry grapes, does not show properly the features
expected from the variety, but having for comparison a sample of the first grapes of the
grafts which, by the care of the Natoma Company, were in the vintage of 1883 made into
a small quantity of wine, and that sample having stood for thirteen months now, with
ullage, in a loosely corked bottle, is not only well preserved, but well developed, it is possible
now to attribute the disadvantageous appearance of the sample of 1884 to immaturity of
the grapes and too low saccharine contents.
February 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Wine in bottles — some half, others three quarters, and
one full — are all remarkably well developed, full-bodied, clean tasting, fruity wines. 8ome
small vials, not full, and loosely corked, hold especially well advanced wines, proving the
ease with which, after a perfect fermentation, the Pedro Jimenes wine can be handled,
yame wine in keg, clear, white in color, light, pleasant tasting, and well advanced in its
growth. Same wine in smaller keg, has suffered somewhat. The keg was kept full. Ull-
age, provided the alcoholic strength has been the proper one (which the immature state of
the grapes could not give), would have developed the wine.
April 14, 1885. (E. W.. H.) Wine of a light Brazilian topaz color, heavy body, and clear
condition. The bouquet is light, but very pleasant, likewise regarding "the acid; flavor,
vinous, with a strong fruity aftertaste. Compared with Paloniino, it has high quality,
but not equal to the latter at this time.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 20.78
Acid .33
Wine.
Alcohol- \ Volume 12.00
^^^°^°^-t Weight 9.63
Body 1.80
Acid .._ .56
Ash 39
PALOMINO, OR LISTAN.
The Palomino is one of the most important grapes of southwestern Spain,
where it not only forms the foundation and sometimes the whole of the
best wines of the regions of Jeres and Malaga, but is also highly esteemed
as a table grape. Its earliness, and the rich flavor which it imparts to the
wines of which it forms a part, make it a favorite throughout the vineyards
of Andalusia. It has also been introduced into Algeria by the French,
and is recommended for the vineyards of central and southern France. It
132
is a vigorous grower on all fairly productive soils, and is always pruned
short. Its bunches are large and of very attractive appearance, and ripen
early in the second period. From Natoma the Palomino is reported to be
a fair bearer and of good vigor. It was gathered, fully ripe, on October
sixth. It will be noted that this is much later than the French statements
would lead us to expect.
No. 267. Palomino. Compared with Pulliat's description, it agrees well.
Grapes were in good condition upon their arrival, and were worked on Octo-
ber tenth, showing 23.81 per cent of sugar. From 62.5 pounds crushed,
there was obtained 4.25 gallons, corresponding to 135.3 gallons per ton;
pomace, 30.3 per cent. Fermentation began on the morning of October
12, 1884, at a temperature of 68° F., reached its highest point the following
morning, at a temperature of 71.6° F. (temperature of cellar, 67° F.), and
remained so for forty -eight hours, then slowly fell to the temperature of the
cellar (64° F.) on October 18, 1884.
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 22, 1884; again
racked February 20, 1885, and lastly in August, 1885. An analysis was
made on April 13, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING,
November 15, ISS4. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine now has too much carbonic acid gas to judge
fully of it; but it is a fine type; delicacy and fragrance apparent to a certain extent.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1SS4- U. No. 267. Palomino, of
Natoma Company. This sample of the sherry variety of the highest class, from which the
Manzanilla sherry is produced in Andalusia, was regarded with favor. It is of a most
pleasing taste, delicate and apparently light in body, of the expression of a fine wine. In
conjunction with U. No. 273, earliest of the grapes for sherry character wines, Boal of Ma-
deira, the beauty of both is heightened in U. No. 307, composed of four parts of the latter
and six parts of Palomino. This blend is of a grand nature, its rich etherous fragrance
being due, in its early appearance, to the Boal, which seems to have reached this preco-
cious faculty of emitting that fragrance from the happy accident of the grapes having
been gathered at Natoma at an early stage, its saccharine contents being far from fully
developed. These two varieties seem to be of great importance for the production of a
wine in which, through ozonic influences, the aromatic essences are developed with vigor,
and it is to be hoped that, as in the mother country, this will occur with increasing power
as years pass over the wines. The precedent exists that wines of California growth, from
foothill regions, have a fullness of aromatic ethers, and with a comparatively low alcoholic
strength, remain iminfluenced in their keeping power quality by adverse circumstances
(that is, chiefly being kept in loosely stoj^pered vessels, not kept full). We may, therefore,
count upon the fulfillment of our hopes in regard to the two varieties named, which will
be productive of superior wines of sherry character, if properly treated.
February 9, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine in vials: one five sixths full, stoppered looselj^
stood since November fourteenth over lees ; has splendidly developed vellow color, from
oxidation; another half full, likewise yellow and well advanced with fine characteristic
taste and perfume of great delicacj'; a third with little ullage, also, of a high degree of
development. A bottle filled and hermetically sealed: color white, and development
retarded. Wine in keg with some ullage, splendidly developed, clean flavor, color white.
This wine reaches the highest expectation.
April 13,1885. (E. W. H.) Condition of sample clear, almost bright, with an almost
white color, and a delicate and very agreeable bouquet; aftertaste decidedly pleasant;
acid moderate; body heavy, with a vinous flavor.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle - .- - -- -- 23.86
Acid --- - 32
4, ^, ,.( Volume - '- 13.50
Alcohol: I ^gjgl^t 1108
Body .-- --- 1.85
Acid - 53
Ash --- - 25
133
PERUNO.
The Peruno is one of the less known varieties of sherry grapes from
southwestern Spain. No special details regarding its culture in Spain
have been obtained. It is doubtless, however, a short pruning variety, and
according to the results recorded below, one of the most promising for high
quality.
From Natoma it is reported to be a fair bearer with good vigor, the
bunches being loose with fair sized berries. Ripens about sixth of October.
Bunches short, roundish, with many long pendant branches, loose berries,
globular, somewhat flattened at base, greenish-yellow, with strong bloom,
somewhat unequal in size, average medium juicy and sweet, skin rather
thick, savor simple, yet somewhat flowery, aromatic, like Palomino.
On October 10, 1884, the grapes were worked, and showed 22.67 per cent
of sugar. From the 16.5 pounds crushed, 1.25 gallons were obtained, cor-
responding to 150.5 gallons per ton; pomace not determined.
Fermentation started at a temperature of 68.9° F. on the evening of Octo-
ber 11, 1884, and attained its maximum of 75.2° F. (temperature of cellar,
67° F.) on the morning of October thirteenth, then slowly fell until the
morning of October seventeenth, when the temperature of the cellar (68° F.)
was reached.
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 21, 1884; again
racked on November 28, 1884; again on April 13, 1885, and again racked
in August, 1885. An analysis was made on April 13, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1SS4- U. No. 268, Peruno,
another slierry variety from Natoma, proves at this early moment, that its robust body
and expression, accompanied by a clean taste in harmony with the latter, will serve for a
grade of sherry, in which roundness and fullness is the feature, and in the blend.
U. No. 302, of half Peruno and half Beba, the possibility of having the delicacy of the
latter combined with the stoutness of the Peruno is made apparent, flavor and taste being
harmonious and of desirable character.
U. No. 303, blend of one fourth Palomino, one fourth Boal, and two fourths Peruno, is
expressive of the high-class flavor of the two first grapes joined to a fuller body, obtained
from the Peruno. The cultivation, in the best suited soils, of the six sherry grapes
named, may be confidently encouraged.
The possibility of obtaining from the varieties which in southern Spain yield the sherry
wines, at least approximations of the high qualities, which, of course, only the peculiar
treatment and age brings to perfection, should stimulate to propagation of the six varie-
ties above named, in order to be able to discard the low class varieties which it is deemed
convenient as yet to utilize for sherry type wines, none of which can in any way satisfy
even modest requirements of fragrance and corresponding taste.
February 9, 1885. (PohndorfF.) Blend of one half Peruno and o.ne half Beba is some-
what coarse in taste, but well developed and clear; a heavy sediment having deposited.
Ajyril 13. (E. W. H.) A clear heavy-bodied wine of a " sherry " color, with a very agree-
able bouquet and moderate acid.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 22.76
Acid 31
Wine.
Alcohol- jVolume 12.35
Alcohol, jweight 9.92
Body 1.95
Acid .52
Ash 31
MANTUO DE PILAS.
Of this grape, as of the Peruno, little is known outside of the districts of
southwestern Spain, where it is locally of considerable importance. While
134
it is related to the Palomino, yet it yields wines of a different character,
and is very distinct in its growth and the size of its berries. It is naturally
presumed, also, to be adapted to short pruning.
From Natoma it is reported as being a good bearer of fair vigor. The
bunches are loose and of fair size; ripening in early part of October; berries
medium size.
This variety resembles the Palomino but the berries are larger and more
elongated and compact. Apparently a very desirable table grape.
No. 269. Grapes arrived in good condition and were worked October 9,
1884; showing a sugar percentage of 18.89. The number of gallons obtained
from 74.4 pounds was 6.13, corresponding to 164.95 gallons per ton; pomace,
20.71 per cent.
Fermentation began on the morning of October 10, 1884, at a tempera-
ture of 66.2° F., and reached its maximum on the evening of October
twelfth, at a temperature of 73.4° F. (temperature of cellar, 66° F.), where
it remained for about forty-eight hours, then gradually fell to the tempera-
ture of the cellar (68° F.) on October 16, 1884.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 21, 1884; again racked
November 23, 1884; again racked February 20, 1885, and lastly in August,
1885.
An analysis of the wine was made April 9, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 15, I8S4. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine has a good fruit expression, but in a sense
neutral. Can not yet be judged ; too little developed.
Report of the ViticuUural Convention Vommittee. U. No. 269, Mantuo de Pilas, of Natoma,
introduction from Jeres, is expressive rather than delicate, still far from coarse. Taste
very agreeable.
Fehrvary 9, 1885. (Pohndorff.) Wine in half full bottles not closed tightly has suffered.
In bottles completely filled and tightly corked the wine has remained in an excellent state
of preservation but not advanced in development.
April 9, 1885. (E. W. H.) A heavy-bodied wine; reddish topaz in color, with a very
agreeable and pleasant bouquet; acid'^high, somewhat pungent; flavor fruity, vinous.
ANALYSIS.
Mxist.
Sugar by spindle -- 18. (i3
Acid --- - 35
Wine.
Ai.^-K^i i Volume---- 9.82
Alcohol: l^ej i,t __ 7.8.5
Body --- 1.32
Acid 53
Ash - - - - 27
MAURisco BRANco (Portugal).
The bunches are shorter and more compact than those of Pedro Jimenes ;
berries of the same size, a little more elongated and firmer fleshed; much
alike in taste, a little more acid.
From Natoma it is reported to be a heavy bearer, of good vigor, with
loose and large bunches; berries, fair size, ripening in the first part of
October.
No. 270. The grapes were crushed on October 9, 1884, and showed 22.67
per cent of sugar. From the 53.25 pounds crushed 4.17 gallons were ob-
tained, corresponding to 156.81 gallons per ton; pomace, 19.00 per cent.
Fermentation began at a temperature of 64.4° F. on the evening of Octo-
ber 10, 1884, and reached its highest point on the morning of October four-
teenth at a temperature of 73.5° F. The fermentation then stopped, and one
pound of Malaga grape juice was added on October twenty-fourth to start
135
fermentation again. After two weeks the fermentation again stopped, and
some of the wine was heated and put back in the keg. On November
second the wine was still sweet, and two and one half bottles of alcohol
were added to fortify it.
BEBA.
The Beba is like the Peruno and Mantuo; is but little known save as an
ingredient of sherries in southwestern Spain. Its name seems to indicate
that it is supposed to contribute materially to the " drinkableness" of wines.
From Natoma it is reported to be a fair bearer, of good ^^gor, and loose
bunches with medium sized berries. Grapes were picked October 6, 1884.
Small, short bunches; berries a little below Palomino; rather dry and
tough; thick skinned, yet well flavored.
No. 271. These grapes were crushed on October 9, 1884, and showed
21.80 per cent of sugar. The yield from 72.16 pounds was 4.1 gallons, or
at the rate of 113.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 33.54 per cent.
The fermentation began on the morning of October 11, 1884, at a tem-
perature of 64.4° F., and reached its maximum on the morning of the thir-
teenth, at a temperature of 75.2° F. (temperature of room, 67° F.), where it
stood for the day, then very slowly fell to the cellar temperature (67.1° F.)
on October 17, 1884.
On October 23, 1884, the young wine was racked from the lees; again
racked November 23, 1884; again, February 20, 1885, and lastly, in August.
Wine was analyzed April 10, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING,
November I4, ISS4. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine has yet some sugar ; it is a good type of its kind,
and an excellent choice, as it is a quantity grape, and for its neutral taste will enter
advantageously in blends of different natures.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1SS4- U. No. 271, Beba, also from
Natoma, one of the sherry grapes, has the advantage of great delicacy with firmness over
the preceding one (Montuo de Pilas). The composition of this fine tasting wine is a very
good one, proving its power of developing by age, and under the influence of the oxygen
of the air allowed to act upon it, into a wine of quality.
Febrnary 9, 1S85. (Pohndorff.) Beba in bottles ; white, clear, has not a high aroma, but
its taste is clean and very agreeable. Wine in bottles hermetically closed down by par-
aflBne, is of yellow color, great finesse in flavor, and of clean excellent taste. Of six bot-
tles— three loosely and two tightly corked — hold the wine in fine state of preservation and
advancement, while one tightly corked has its wine sjioiled.
April 10, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) A hght straw-colored wine, of a heavy body, with a very
agreeable acid and high bouquet. The flavor is pleasant and vinous.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 22.60
Acid .25
Alcohol • i Vo^u™® ---- 14.27
Alcohol. ^ ^Yeigi^t 11.62
Body 2.10
Acid.-- - 50
Ash -. .37
VERDELHO.
This grape is largely cultivated in the Island of Madeira, where it enters
into the finest qualities of wines. It is also cultivated to some extent in
France, but mainly as a table variety. Excellent wine is made of it in the
Crimea. The Verdelho is a vigorous stock and requires short pruning. It
is very productive, and thus makes up largely for the smallness of its
bunches; the latter resist rains very well. Under glass it has manifested
136
its tendency to productiveness by the -bearing of two crops in one season.
Although at home in so southerly a location, it doe? well not only in
southern but also in middle France, and may thus be expected to succeed
even in the cooler portions of California, and near the coast. The more as,
unlike other sherry varieties, it ripens comparatively early. It is, however,
much subject to mildew, and preventive sulphuring must be practiced.
The beauty and firmness of its almost transparent berries render it well
adapted to table use as well as for wine making. From Natoma it is reported
to be a fair bearer of good vigor, with medium sized and compact bunches,
having small berries. It was picked fully ripe on thirtieth of September.
Some of the grapes were in bad condition, and the lot (No. 272) was worked
on October second, showing 25.88 per cent of sugar.
The yield from 94.6 pounds was 7.8 gallons, or at the rate of 164.77 gal-
lons per ton; pomace, 21.86 per cent.
Fermentation started on the morning of October fourth at a temperature
of 70.7° F., reached its maximum the following evening at a temperature of
74.3° F. (temperature of room, 69° F.), then gradually fell to the cellar
temperature (67° F.) on October tenth.
The young wine was racked from the lees on October 15, 1884; again
racked November twenty -fifth; again racked February 18, 1885, and lastly
in August following. Wine was analyzed March 18, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 15, 1884- (F. Pohndorff.) A grand wine, but unmistakably a southern hot
wine, going towards the Andalusian white types.
Report of Viticidtural Convention Committee, December, 1884- Of white wines of ardent
nature, we have our acclimated Verdelho, No. 1B4, of Mr. Eisen, Fresno, bearing out the
character of a hot wine, but the expression of this sample is comparatively neutral.
U. No. 272, grown by the Natoma Company, on grafts of recent introduction, is of excel-
lent quality, showing real fruity delicacy. Both samples, however distinct they are, indi-
cate that this varietv should be utilized in connection with others for generous wines.
The employment of Verdelho grapes with others of bland light-bodied juice may not be
excluded, if rightly proportioned. Studies in this direction are desirable.
February 8, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Splendidly developed in all respects; is of a nature to
withstand influence of air.
March 18, 1885. (E. W. H.) A clear, white wine of heavy body and delicate bouquet;
acid, low ; aftertaste, decidedly fruity.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 27.34
Acid 50
A,^,,.j Volume - '. 15.20
Alcohol: I ^gjgj^^ 12.39
Body 2.82
Acid - -- 42
Ash 33
BOAL MADEIRA.
No details regarding this grape are given.
From Natoma it is reported as being a heavy bearer, of good vigor, with
large and rather loose bunches; berries, medium in size.
No. 273. Grapes were picked ripe on September sixth. Grapes were
received on September ninth, in bad condition, and were carefully picked
over and crushed the next day, showing 21.38 per cent of sugar.
The yield from 66.4 pounds was 4.75 gallons, corresponding to 143.2 gal-
lons per ton; pomace, 24.6 per cent. The fermentation began on the morn-
ing of September twelfth, at 68.9° F., and reached its maximum of 85.1° F.
(temperature of the room, 68° F.), on the morning of September fourteenth;
187
then fell, very slowly, to the temperature of the cellar (68.9° F.), on Sep-
tember twentieth.
This wine was racked from the lees on September 23, 1884; again racked
November 15, 1884; again on February 26, 1885, and, lastly, in August.
An analysis was made March 18, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 15, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Wine in keg sound and mild for a southern hot wine,
owing probably to the maturity of the grapes. The development of the bouquet remark-
able for so young a wine, and not exactly in accordance with the mellow taste.
It surpasses (at least at this time) in development the highest of the sherry, varieties,
which are all yet, as is but natural, backward in depurating themselves. Necessarily, the
degree of ripeness at which the grapes were crushed has much to do with the remarkable
development of its bouquet.
Febniary 9, 1SS5. (Pohndorff.) Wine in Vials and bottles: in some of the former, not
filled and in which were lees, the wine could not stand the action of oxidation, evidently
owing to the low alcoholic strength consequent upon the small sugar percentage the grapes
contained.
In full bottles the wine is in good state of preservation, but in its development appar-
ently backward. The fine flavor is there which so distinguished the wine two months
ago, but is now present in a less degree of intensity, and the wine is feeble. It was not
deemed advisable at the proper time to strengthen the wine by the addition of alcohol, for
fear of destroying its early appearing ethers. The subject requires .study in the future ;
a greater matiirity of the grapes will be a necessity, and we may count on having a very
valuable variety for sherry purposes in the Boal grape.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 21.76
Acid.-."- - -- .53
^^^r.^.^^. i Volume - 11.58
Alcohol: I ^g.gi^^ _ 927
Body -- -- 2.00
Acid. - - -- 66
Ash 26
UGNi BLANC — (Trebhiauo?)
The Ugni Blanc belongs almost exclusively to the Provence, where it
serves both for white wines and for the improvement of reds such as the
Mataro, with which it is frequently found associated. It succeeds well in
almost any soil — its product being in proportion to the fertility of the lat-
ter. The lateness of its budding-out renders it suitable for the level coun-
try where late frosts are to be feared, but away from the immediate coast
region of the Provence the grape oftentimes does not acquire full maturity.
Of course then it cannot thrive in colder climates. It should always be
pruned short; when pruned long the quality of its wine is greatly lowered.
Its bunches are long and loose, slightly shouldered, cylindroconical. The
berries of medium size, almost round, rather thick-skinned, when fully ripe
of a more or less intense yellow tint, which in gravelly soils with warm
exposure sometimes passes into a light rose color. It matures late in the
third period. The flesh is somewhat firm, but very juicy and sweet and
without special aroma.
From Natoma it is reported to be a heavy bearer of good vigor, with both
loose and compact bunches. The berries are of medium size, and ripen
during the first week of October.
Compared with Pulliat's description, agrees well.
No. 274. Grapes arrived in good condition, and were worked on October
10, 1884, showing 20.61 per cent of sugar. The yield from 20.5 pounds
crushed was 1.6 gallons, corresponding to 149.95 gallons per ton; pomace,
20.75 per cent.
138
Fermentation started at a temperature of 66.2° F., on the morning of
October 11, 1884, and reached its maximum of 71.6° F. (temperature of
cellar, 67° F.) on the morning of October 14, 1884, then gradually fell until
the temperature of the cellar (68° F.) was reached, on October eighteenth.
This wine was racked from the lees on October 21, 1884. Some of it was
put in bottles, which were filled to within one inch of the top and left stand-
ing. On November eighth, when the wine was again racked, these bottled
samples were found to be unsound. Again racked on April 11, 1885, on
which day it was analyzed, and lastly in August following.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 274, Ugni Blanc,
does not show the fine taste expected from the grape; there is full body and flavor in the
sample, but the acids are too expressive. It will require new tests, in the next vintage, to
Eronounce with more certainty on this variety. It seems important, as it is said to be a
ne accompaniment for fermenting red grapes for red wines.
February 9, 1SS5. (Tohndorff.) Wine in half-full bottle has kept well and advanced in
its development; fine, fruity flavor, and mild; good taste.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle -- - 20.70
Acid - - -59
Wine.
Ai ^K 1 i Volume --- - -- 11-00
Alcohol: I ^g. 1^^ _ __ g.9i
Bodv -----.-..: -.- - 2.00
Acid -51
Ash - -.-- 30
MALMSEY,
The identity of this grape with either of the true white Malvoisie grapes,
usually described, is not satisfactorily made out.
From Natoma it is reported to be a medium bearer of good %dgor, having
loose and rather large bunches; berries, fair size. Grapes were picked Sep-
tember sixth.
No. 275. Grapes arrived here on Saturday, September ninth, and were
not worked until the following INIonday, when they had become quite
injured, many bunches being sour and rotten. Monde^ise, picked at the
same time, was in good condition. Malmsey showed 18.58 per cent of
sugar.
The yield from 68.64 pounds of grapes was 4.95 gallons, or at the rate of
144.33 gallons per ton; pomace, 21.96 per cent.
Fermentation began on September fourteenth at a temperature of 75.2°
F., and reached its maximum at a temperature of 78.8° F. (temperature of
cellar, 68° F.) on September sixteenth, remaining at that temperature for one
day, and then gradually falling to the temperature of the cellar (70° F.) on
the twenty-third of September.
The young wine was racked from the lees on September twenty-fourth;
again racked in November; again on February 25, 1885, and also in
August, 1885.
Analysis of the wine was made March 18, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I8S4. U. No. 275, Malmsey. This
variety was recently introduced from Madeira in the Natoma (Company's plantation, and
the product is of quality, the wine having a pronounced fine etherous flavor imparted to
its taste. Adding a proper proportion of the Malmsey grape to others, for sherry blends,
may have the effect of communicating its delicate perfume and expression.
139
Febmary 9, 1SS5. Malmsey raised thus far with ullage, has developed quite rapidly,
influenced well by access of air, and because of repeated early rackings.
March IS, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) Condition of sample slightly turbid; color, light topaz, and
body heavy; bouquet, pronounced and agreeable; acid, somewhat high, owing to presence
of acetic acid.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle. 17.91
Acid 56
Wine.
Ai^^>,^i. i Volume 9.91
Alcohol: I Weight.. 7.92
Body -.1. 1.60
Acid.. .54
Ash 16
No. 276. Malaga.
From the vineyard of P. W. Butler, Penryn. Apparently the rather
roundish berried variety commonly known in California as " White Malaga."
Grapes were in good condition, and were worked October 4, 1884, show-
ing 17.18 per cent of sugar.
From 22.7 pounds crushed, 1.85 gallons were obtained, corresponding to
163.22 gallons per ton; pomace, 18.45 per cent.
Fermentation began on the morning of October sixth ; temperature,
71.6° F., reached its highest on October tenth, at a temperature of 77° F.
(temperature of cellar, 69° F.), then slowly fell to the cellar temperature
(68° F.) on October 16, 1884.
The wine was racked from the lees on October 19, 1884; again racked
November 15, 1884; again racked March 7, 1885. Wine was analyzed
March 31, 1885.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindle 17.14
Acid 300
Alcohol- i Volume ' 9.82
Aiconoi. I Weight 8.13
Body 1.69
Acid -. .22
Ash-. .24
D.~PORT WINE VARIETIES.
TINTA CAO.
No detailed description of this grape is at hand.
No. 277. From Natoma it is reported as being a light bearer of medium
vigor, with small and loose bunches; berries, medium in size and ripening
in the latter part of September. These grapes arrived in good condition,
and were crushed on September 26, 1884, showing 21.80 per cent of sugar.
Bunches, small; in good condition; loose, not at all compact; grapes,
firm; sugar, good; acid, medium; grapes not too ripe; some very small
bunches; quite sour. This variety was used in blends, 64.34 pounds
being the total weight of grapes crushed.
140
TINTA MADEIRA.
No description of this variety is available.
From Natoma it is reported to be a light bearer, of good "vdgor, ha^^ng
small and loose bunches, with niedivim sized berries, ripening in the second
week of September.
No. 278. Grapes were mouldy when received on September 9, 1884,
and after picking over were crushed on the following day, showing 21.22
per cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 18.26 pounds crushed commenced on the evening of
September twelfth, at a temperature of 74.3° F., reaching its maximum on
September fourteenth ; temperature, 76.1° F. (temperature of cellar, 68° F.) ;
then very gradually falling to the temperature of the cellar (71.6° F.), on
September eighteenth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the
crushing, the yield from the above amount being 1.11 gallons, or at the rate
of 121.5 gallons per ton; pomace, 13.25 per cent.
RECORD OF TASTING.
September 29, ISS4. (Pohndorff.) Wine well fermented; good color (not ruby); fresh
clear taste and expression.
November 14, 1884- (F. Pohndorff.) Wine in a small bottle has suffered considerably;
fine bright ruby color; good fruit expression ; stamping the wine as a hot one rather than
claret-lilce.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, ISS4. U. No. 278, Tinta of
Madeira, a wine of light ruby color, had suffered and was not therefore thoroughlj- recog-
nizable. From observations during fermentation, and just after having acconiplisbed the
same, it was apparent that the variety is an eminent one in all regards, its excellent deli-
cate but decided fruity expression and flavor stamping it as one of the most acceptable
varieties for our vineyards.
Reconsidering U. No. 378, Tinta Madeira, we must abstain from deciding whether or
not this grape is to enter into the category of those yielding juice for full-bodied sweet
wines. The sample of wine not being a success, and judging from the aspect of the same
during and just after the fermentation, the high qualities, then fully apparent, a fine color
and a characteristic delicate etherous flavor, would suggest its classification among the
superior grapes for gentle light wines, but the origin of the variety from Madeira would
indicate its adaptedness likewise for generous wines, and as an ingredient in port-charac-
ter ones.
MOURISCO PRETO.
Not described in any accessible work.
From Natoma it is reported as being a heavy bearer of good vigor, hav-
ing large and loose bunches with fair sized berries ripening in the latter
part of September.
No. 279. The amount received of this variety was 56.32 pounds, all
being used in blends. The grapes were worked on September twenty-
sixth, and showed 21.38 per cent of sugar.
TINTA AMARELLA.
No description available.
From Natoma it is reported to be a fair bearer, with good vigor; bunches
compact, and of medium size, with fair-sized berries, ripening in the latter
part of September.
Nos. 280 and 281. Grapes were received on September 22, 1884, and
before being crushed were separated into two lots — one (No. 280), of the
unevenly matured and very light-colored samples, but in good condition,
and another (No. 281), of the fully ripe and matured samples. No. 280
was not analyzed, owing to the sour bunches. No. 281 showed 20.29 per
cent of sugar.
Fermentation of 100.32 pounds crushed, of "unripe" sample (No. 280),
began on the morning of September 24, 1884, at a temperature of 73.4° F.,
141
and reached its maximum the next morning, at a temperature of 76.1° F.
(temperature of the room, 67.5° F.); then fell, very gradually, to the tem-
perature of the cellar (68° F.), on September 30, 1884, when the murk was
drawn off, eight days from the crushing, the yield from the above amount
being 8.5 gallons, or at the rate of 169.60 gallons per ton; pomace, 8.77
per cent.
On November 17, 1884, the young wine was racked from the lees; racked
again January 13, 1885; again racked August, 1885. Analysis of wine
made February 6, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
November 15, I884. (F. Pohndorff.) A wine of deep color, acid straight, expression
fruity and lull. The grapes were unripe, but this fault seems exactly to have been favor-
able, for there is nothing disharmonious in the wine. It depurated itself thoroughly and
rapidly. While of southern character, this sample is decidedly not of a hot nature, but
amply rich and available as or for a full-bodied claret.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, IS84. U. No. 280. Tinta Amarella
ports, from Natoma Company. Of fruity expression and mild taste; color poor. Evi-
dently the grapes, which when ripe have a rich amount of color, had not attained any-
thing near perfection of maturity. Thus the true characteristics of the wine are not
recognizable. Continued experiments with this grape, said to be an active factor for good
ports in Portugal, are necessarv-
Blend U. No. 304, in which Tinta Amarella entered to the amount of three tenths with
blends U. Nos. 305 and 306, is of a rich, but mild taste, expressive, of middling color, and
good sweetness.
February 6, 1S85. (E. W. H.) The condition of the sample was clear, with a pleasant
bouquet and a heavy bodv, acid medium, and astringency light.
February 9, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine in good condition, of light violet color, and
indifFeren't in character, holding still a large amount of carbonic acid.
March SO, 1885. A very light garnet colored wine with a decidedly developed bouquet.
Condition bright, acid and astringency low, the latter too much so.
Fermentation of 49.5 pounds crushed of "ripe" (sample No. 281) com-
menced on the morning of September 24, 1884, at a temperature of 67.1°
F., and reached its maximum on the morning of September twenty-sev-
enth, at a temperature of 71.6° F. (temperature of room, 68° F.), then grad-
ually fell to the cellar temperature (68° F.) on September 30, 1884. The
fermentation throughout was very quiet and regular. When the murk was
drawn off, seven days from the crushing, the yield from the above amount
was 4.18 gallons, corresponding to 168.7 gallons per ton; pomace, 7.11 per
cent.
The wine was racked from the lees on November 22, 1884; again racked
February 18, 1885; again in August, 1885; wine analyzed November 22,
1884.
RECORD OF TASTING.
February 9, 1885. (F. Pohndorff.) Wine made from ripe grapes is of very good color
and decidedly fine taste. It is a heavy wine, and the grape is a very proper one for port.
November 20, 1885. (E. W. H.) Condition of samples is bright, with a strongly developed
bouquet; body, medium; astringency, a little higher than that of wine made from unripe
grapes ; acid, high.
ANALYSES.
No. 280.
Must.
Sugar by spindle.
Acid
Wine.
Alcohol
Body --.
Tannin
Acid
Ash....
( Volume -
I Weight .
11.27
9.05
2.36
.06
.50
.45
20.08
.47
11.91
9.5fi
2.89
.06
.53
.47
142
MORETTO.
The Moretto or Croetto is cultivated mainly in the upper valley of the Po,
in Piedmont, where it forms one of the quantity grapes of the region, it
being more productive than even the Mataro, and apparently of somewhat
lower quality than the latter. It is a very hardy vine, not choice in respect
to soils or location, and, on account of its late sprouting, not liable to dam-
age from Spring frosts. It also resists the mildew well. In view of its
high productiveness it must always be pruned short, since otherwise it
rapidly exhausts its vitality; but with proper restriction of the bearing
wood, it is a long-lived vine, when the soil is properly sustained. Its
bunches are large, shouldered, and somewhat loose. The berries, of a form
varying from round to oval, have a thick and highly colored skin; mature
late in the second period. There is no special aroma, and the taste is
somewhat roughish. It produces only ordinary wines, which are improved
by blending with musts of higher quality.
From Natoma it is reported to be a light bearer, with fair vigor. The
bunches are of medium size and compact, with medium sized berries;
ripening during the last week of September.
No. 282. All of the grapes (21.78 pounds) of this variety were blended,
and were crushed on September twenty-sixth, showing 18.71 per cent of
sugar.
BASTARDO.
This variety, quite widely cultivated in Spain for red wines, has been sup-
posed to be identical with the Trousseau, to which it bears some resemblance
in its growth and aspect of bunches, but its far earlier ripening, and the
totally diverse character of its wine, prove conclusively that it is entirely
distinct.
From Natoma it is reported to be a light bearer, of medium vigor, with
small and compact bunches, and small berries. It ripens earlier than
any variety in the vineyard; at least five weeks sooner than the Trousseau,
whose leaf it somewhat resembles in shape, but is much broader.
No. 283. Grapes were in a bad condition, and samples were carefully
selected for making the wine.
Fermentation of 113.7 pounds crushed began on the morning of Septem-
ber eleventh, at a temperature of 73.4° F., and reached its maximum on
September twelfth, at a temperature of 86° F., while that of the room was
70° F., then gradually fell to the temperature of the cellar, 68° F., on Sep-
tember seventeenth, when the murk was drawn off, nine days from the
crushing; the yield being 8.9 gallons from the above amount, or at the rate
of 156.9 gallons per ton; pomace, 14.93 per cent.
The young wine was racked from the lees on November 12, 1884; again
racked February 25, 1885; again in August following. Wine was anal-
yzed February 4, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
September 23, 18S4- Sample comparatively clear, of good, fruity flavor, but deficient in
color.
November I4, ISS4. (F. Pohndorff.) A hot, sound wine, with no color, and apparently
not at all successful for red wine by itself.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1884- Among the varieties for port
type wines the Bastardo must be classed, for sample U. No. 28.'? shows anything but a light
red wine; it is full bodied, but failed to draw any color, only a sliglit tinge, probably liecause
the grapes, cut in the first week of September, had not the necessary degree of maturity;
its taste is coarse. Trials of blending this wine with Mondeuse proved tliat its harsh taste
would not be sufficiently softened by the influence of the mellow wine from the latter
grape. This single experiment with the Bastardo may not he conclusive, and trials should
143
be continued during the next years. There must be merit in the grape, which is a very
early ripening one, and its appropriate use in sweet reds may not be doubted. The simi-
larity or identity of the Bastardo grape with Trousseau is not apparent from the Natoma
samples.
February 4, 1SS5. (E. W. H.) A clear, heavy-bodied wine, of pale red color, with an
undefined bouquet, but a decided alcoholic odor; acid fair; astringency low.
Febrnar]/ 9, 1SS5. (F. Pohndorif.) Poor in quality and feeble in color.
ANALYSIS.
Must.
Sugar by spindl e .--23.74
Acid. -J - .43
Alcohol • I "^olume-^.i,.^^-,- '- 12.83
Alcohol. I ^Yeight ___ _ _ 1035
Body 3.12
Tannin .06
Acid 51
Ash... - .56
No. 306. Blend of Tinta Cao and Mourisco Preto.
Grapes for this blend were crushed on September 27, 1884. The total
weight was 94.38 pounds, of which 54 per cent was Mourisco Preto and 46
per cent Tinta Cao, and the yield 9.77 gallons.
Fermentation commenced on the morning of September 28, 1884, at a
temperature of 73.4° F. (temperature of the room, 68° F.), and was com-
pletely stopped the next day by the addition of .80 gallons of alcohol.
The murk was drawn off on October first, three days from the crushing.
On March 2, 1885, the wine was racked from the lees ; again racked in
August following.
REPORT OF TASTING.
Report of the Viticultural Convention Committee, December, 1S84. Blend U. No. 306,
Mourisco Preto two thirds, Tinta Cao one third, of fine but feeble color and good taste.
Sweetness very moderate. The taste is not fruity enough, thus indicating the need of a
third medium to obtain a good effect.
February 9, 1SS5. (F. Pohndorff.) Blend has depurated itself splendidly, hardly any
sediment being apparent after two rackings since November ; taste good, with flavor of
oxidation.
November 20, 1885. (E. W. H.) Condition of wine bright, with a well developed bouquet
and good color. Acid and astringency adequate. Body too low, for port not sweet enough.
No. 305. Blend of Moretto, Mourisco Preto, Petit Bouschet, and Tinta Cao.
All the grapes (from Natoma) used in making this blend were in good
condition, and were crushed on September 27, 1884, showing the following
percentages of sugar: Moretto, 18.71; Mourisco Preto, 21.38; Petit Bou-
schet, 20.61, and Tinta Cao, 21.80. The bunches of the Tinta Cao were
small and loose, not at all compact; some of the smallest were quite sour.
Grapes firm, not too ripe, sugar good, and acid medium. The total weight
of grapes was 54.56 pounds; 40 per cent Moretto, 40 per cent Tinta Cao,
and 10 per cent of each of the Mourisco Preto and Petit Bouschet. The
above amount yielded 4.57 gallons.
Fermentation began on the morning of September twenty-eighth at
71.6° F. temperature (temperature of the room, 70° F.), and was stopped
the next morning by being fortified with 1.9 litres of alcohol. The murk
was drawn off on October first, three days from the crushing.
On March 1, 1885, the wine was racked from the lees; racked again
August, 1885.
RECORD OF TASTING.
Report of Viticultural Convention Committee, December, I884. Blend U. No. 305, of four
tenths Tinta Cao, four tenths Moretto, one tenth Mourisco Preto, and one tenth Petit
144
Bouschet, shows good expression, pretty color, and moderate sweetness, the blend having
been over-fermented.
Blend IT. No. 307, of one half blend U. No. 305, and one half U. No. 306, has a fine color,
due chiefly to the Petit Bouschet introduced, and excellent fruit expression, but does not
indicate truly the result to be expected from the Oporto grape varieties composing the
blend, as the grapes ought to have reached a more perfect maturity to form all the ele-
ments necessary for good port wine, in duly developed shape.
Blend IT. No. 308, of 60 per cent Tinta Cao, 10 per cent Moretto, 15 per cent Mourisco
Preto, and 15 per cent Petit Bouschet, gives measurable satisfaction, but the blend has
fermented away too much of the sugar of the grapes to hold sufficient sweetness. There
is withal in the different blends a clean taste and mellowness, which, if properly propor-
tioned in sweetness, would allow a general favoraljlc judgment, regarding the new accli-
matizations from Oporto in the Natoma plantations, as to attaining the object of their
propagation.
February 9, 1S85. (F. Pohndortf.) Color of blend very fine and deep for a port, owing
to influence; Petit Bouschet which seems homogeneous in the blend.
November 20, 1885. (IC. W. H.) The wine has a more intense color than blend No. 305.
Condition, bright; body low on account of wine not being sweet enough; acid and astrin-
gency both good. The bouquet is better developed in this blend than in No. 305.
145
Gallons of Must
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150
EXHIBIT OP WINES MADE AT THE ANNUAL VITICULTURAL CONVENTION,
DECEMBER, 1884.
(From the Keport of the State Viticultural Convention, 1884.)
Experimental fermentations and blends, made at the State University, by Prof. E. W.
Hilgard, from grapes furnished as indicated below, by vine growers in different parts of
the State :
Vine Grower.
Place of Produc-
tion.
Malbeck
Bastardo
Boal -
Zinfandel, Mataro, Meunier..
Sauvignon Blanc
I Semillon, two thirds .
t Sauvignon Blanc, one third.
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Charles Lefranc
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Doyle, Drummond-.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
San Jose.
- Natoma.
- Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Tinta Madeira .
1884
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma.
Mondeuse
Zinfandel
Petite Syrah
Malvoisie, Lenoir, Trousseau ^.
Marsanne
Roussanne
( Malbeck, four fifths )
( Petite Syrah, one fifth j
Semillon
Muscadelle du Bordelais (loose
bunch ) --
Muscadelle du Bordelais (com-
l^act bunch)
Meunier ._
Sauvignon Blanc
Merlot
Verdot
Cabernet Franc --.
Semillon
Zinfandel, Lenoir
Tinta Amarella
Petit Bous(diet
Cluirette Blanche
Cinsaut
f Mourisco Preto, one tenth "A
J Moretto, four tenths [
j Petit Bouschet, one tenth (
I, Tinta Cao, four tenths .J
( Tinta Cao, one fifth )
( Mourisco Preto, two fifths j
Beclan
Cabernet Sauvignon
) Zinfandel, three fifths )
( Mondeuse, two fifths. -.. J
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Natoma W. & M. Co.
C. W. Howard
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Warfield, Dovle
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
William Scheffler . . .
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Warfield, DeTurk..
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W.-& M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma.
. Lower Lake.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
. Natoma.
--- Natoma.
-St. Helena.
--- Natoma.
Natoma.
.-- Natoma.
. - - Natoma.
.-- Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
H
n
Folle Blanche
Verdelho
Sauvignon Blanc
Clairette Rouge
(■Zinfandel, 72 pounds
< Grossblaue. 21 ])Ounds
(, Folle Blanche, 7 pounds
Port, blend of 31 and 32. ;
( Cabernet Sauvignon, GG pounds
( Grossblaue, 34 pounds
I Cabernet Franc, two thirds
1 Grossblaue, one third
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W.&M. Co.
Natoma.
Natoma.
: Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
151
Exhibit of Wines, Etc.— Continued.
.3 =
85
m
( Zinfandel, 62J^ pounds .
Lenoir, 37i pounds
Carignane
Aranion
f Cinsaut, one half )
( Petite Syrah, one half-.. j
M ou rastel
f Zinfandel, 72 pounds \
[ Crabb's Black Burgundy, 28 lbs. J
Zinfandel
Zinfandel
Viue Grower.
Place of Produc-
tion.
2 vis
2
i •
1
f Cabernet Franc, 64 pounds
I Carignane, 18 pounds
"] Grossblaue, 9 pounds
[ FoUe Blanche, 9 pounds
( Caber. Sauvignon, eight tenths.
< Mourastel, one tenth
(Carignane, one tenth
( Cabernet Franc, three fourths .
t Carignane, one fourth _-
( Cabernet Franc, one half
\ Mourastel, one half
I Zinfandel, two thirds
t No. 44, one third
Barbera -■
Meunier
f Cabernet Franc, 60 pounds
j Black Prince, 10 pounds
1 Grossblaue, 15 pounds
l^FolIe Blanche, 15 pounds
Mantuo de Pilas
Burger
Beba
f Trousseau, one half
< Zinfandel, one fourth
i Mondeuse, one fourth
Lenoir
Blau-Elbling
Grossblaue
Ugni Blanc
Peruno
Palomino -.
" Pecoui Touar"*
Pedro Ximenez
r Carignane, one fourth
■I Mission, one half
{ FoUe Blanche, one fourth
Lenoir
Burger
Trousseau
Black Pinot
Grenache
Trousseau
Cabernet Sauvignon
Black Burgundy
Tannat..- :
j Aranion, one half
1 Zinfandel, one half
j Tinta Amarella, three tenths
I 31 and 32, seven tenths
( Zinfandel, 83 pounds
< Cabernet Franc, 12 pounds -.
( Petite Syrah, 5 pounds
( Boal, four tenths
\ Palomino, six tenths --
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Pellet
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
{ E. B. Smith
1 H. W. Crabb
P. W. Butler
E. B. Smith
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
L
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Stern & Rose
Natoma W. & M. Co.
(George West
< E. B. Smith
i Nat. W. & M. Co. -.
H. Hagen
Stern & Rose
A. Pellet
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
H. A. Pellet
Gov. Stanford
J. C. Eggers
A. Langenberger
Robert Barton
George West
1j. p. Berger
W. Pfeffer
W. Pfetfer
W. Pfeffer
H. W. Crabb
H.W. Crabb
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
rChas. W. Howard-.
< Nat.W. &M. Co....
(Nat.W. &M. Co....
Natoma W. & M. Co.
. . Martinez.
Napa.
.St. Helena.
. .. Natoma.
Natoma.
. Natoma.
Martinez.
. Oakville.
. Penryn.
Martinez.
. Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma W. & M. Co. Natoma.
f C. A. Wetmore...
t Nat. W. & M. Co.
J. T. Doyle
Henrv Mel...
... Livermore.
Natoma.
Cupertino.
Glen wood.
Natoma.
Penryn.
St. Helena.
... Livermore.
Natoma.
. . San Gabriel.
Natoma.
Stockton.
Martinez.
Natoma.
Napa.
. . San Gabriel.
St. Helena.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
St. Helena.
Vina.
Fresno.
Anaheim.
Fresno.
Stockton.
Lakeport.
. . Santa Clara.
. . Santa Clara.
. . Santa Clara.
Oakville.
Oakville.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Lower Lake.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Natoma.
152
Exhibit of Wines
Etc-
-Continued.
•1
2= =
5 3
Variety.
<
1
Vine Grower.
Place of Produc-
tion.
1
h
1
1
1
1
i
1
1
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
1884
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
f Nat W & M Co
87
88
\ Peruno, one half
l^ Aramon, 30 pounds
\ Black Burgundy, 26 pounds .
(zinfandel. 44 pounds
f Aramon, 25 pounds
J Zinfandel, 25 pounds
"1 Gros.sblaue, 25 pounds
t Mondeuse, 25 pounds
( Cinsaut, 30 pounds
< Petite Syrah, 30 pounds
(zinfandel, 40 pounds
1 Trousseau, Rfig pounds
t Zinfandel. 33^ pounds
f Zinfandel, 51 pounds
J Charbono, 33^ pounds
' Trousseau, 33^ pounds
, Gros Mancin, 50 pounds
f Carignane, 15 pounds
J Black Burgundy, 15 pounds-.
] Aramon, 28 pounds
L Zinfandel, 42 pounds
? Cinsaut, 30 pounds
■< Petite Syrah, 30 pounds
(Zinfandel, 40 pounds
r Palomino, 25 pounds
< Peruno, 50 pounds
( Boal, 25 pounds
Port
-I
;;}
;;}
::}
-- (■
--J
-1
1
:;}
;:)
---.--. Natoma.
Natoma.
j E. B. Smith
.- Martinez.
89
1 H. A. Pellet - . .
St. Helena.
[ Nat. W. & M. Co.
Natoma.
90
Natoma W. & M. Co.
f George West
Natoma.
Stockton.
91
t E. B. Smith . . .
Martinez.
fl. De Turk
J J. T. Doyle
Santa Rosa.
Cupertino.
92
1 J. T. Doyle
Cupertino.
93
[ J. H. Drummond ..
f J. H. Drummond ..
J H. W. Crabb
Nat. W & M Co.
Glen Ellen.
---- Glen Ellen.
Oakville.
Natoma.
94
[Chas. W. Howard..
(Nat. W. &M. Co..--
< Nat.W. &M. Co.---
(E. B. Smith
. . . Lower Lake.
Natoma.
Natoma.
Martinez.
95
96
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma W. & M. Co.
Natoma.
Natoma.
* Incorrect!}' named.
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF WINES SENT FOR EXAMINATION, AND
ANALYZED DURING THE SEASON OF 1884-85.
No. 160. Trousseau, 1883. (From M. Denicke, Fresno.)
A clear, medium-bodied wine of a moderately deep garnet color, decided
acid and astringency, and vinous flavor; bouquet is decided and fruity,
accompanied by an alcoholic odor, After diluting with fifty per cent water,
the wine is very good, and fair after one hundred per cent of water has been
added.
No. 159. Trousseau, 1883. (From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino.)
Condition of the sample, clear; color, light red; body, heavy; acid and
astringency, moderate; bouquet, very light; wine probably made from
young vines.
No. 161. Trousseau. (From C. A. Wetmore, Livermore.)
Condition of sample, clear, with a red color of medium intensity; bou-
quet, agreeable, but not well developed; body, heavy; acid and astrin-
gency, light; flavor, ^dnous, but taste is somewhat bitterish.
153
No. 152. Charhono, No. t 1883. (From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino.)
Condition of the sample, bright, with an intense red color, heavy body,
sharp acid, and good astringency. The bouquet is characteristic of the
wine.
No. 153. Charhono, No. 2, 1883. (From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino.)
A wine of high astringency; medium acid and body. The flavor is
somewhat fiattish; condition, clear; color, intense red.
No. 167. Claret, 1883. (From R. Barton, Fresno.)
Wine has high, rough acids; not much of a bouquet, it being covered by
the acetic odor; similarly as regards the flavor, which is vinous; astrin-
gency, high; body, heavy; condition, clear; color, deep garnet; wine dilutes
well; but acid and astringency are too high, and there is hardly any flavor.
No. 157. Malvoisie, 1884. (From J. T. Doyle, Cupertino.)
A wine of decided acid, very light body, and no bouquet; color, very
deficient; condition, slightly turbid.
No. 151. Malheck, 1884. (Ch. Le Franc, New Almaden Vineyard.)
Condition of sample, bright; color, intense purple-red; astringency, high;
acid, medium. The bouquet could not be judged from sample. Flavor,
vinous, agreeable; general quality, good.
No. 131. Grenache, 1883. (From J. B. J. Portal, Burgundy Vineyard.)
A medium-bodied wine, of low acid; decided and adequate astringency,
and faint but vinous and agreeable bouquet; color, light, deficient; acid
too low to admit dilution of wine.
No. 126. Carignane, 1883. (From J. B. J. Portal, Burgundy Vineyard.)
Condition of sample, bright; color, deep purple-red; body, medium; acid,
good; astringency, fair; flavor, vinous, well developed; bouquet, light.
No. 142. Ploussard, I884. (From J. B. J. Portal, Burgundy Vineyard.)
Condition of sample, clear with deep-purple color; acid, adequate,- and
astringency medium; bouquet is covered by a somewhat mouldy odor;
flavor is vinous, but tastes bitterish; body, heavy; dilution, good, with 50
per cent water.
No. 125 A. Mataro, I884. (From J. B. J. Portal, Burgundy Vineyard.)
A wine of moderate color; heavy body; high, agreeable, somewhat sharp-
ish acid, and good astringency; bouquet is claret-like, and promising con-
dition; clear. Wine, after the addition of 50 per cent water, is very good;
100 per cent, fair.
154
No. 141. Cahernet, I884. (From J. B. J. Portal, Burgundy Vineyard.)
A bright deep-red colored, heaAy-bodied wine, of undeveloped bouquet;
medium acid, and good astringency. Result of diluting wine with 50 per
cent water, very good; 100 per cent, good.
No. 116. Blau-Elbling, I884. (From Stern & Rose, San Gabriel.)
A very light-bodied wine, of topaz color; bouquet, very faint; acid, high;
flavor, slightly nutty; sample in bottle has suffered.
No. 115. Seedless Sultana, 1884- (From Stern & Rose, San Gabriel.)
Condition of sample, clear; color, white; body, very light; bouquet, faint;
acid, high.
No. 114. Burger, 188J,. (From Stern &. Rose, San Gabriel.)
Bouquet, undeveloped; acid, deficient; body, light; condition, slightly
turbid.
No. 112. Burger, 1883. (From R. Barton, Fresno.)
A bright topaz-colored wine, of medium body; light acid; fairly devel-
oped bouquet, and nutty vinous flavor.
No. 113. Burger, I884. (From R. Barton, Fresno.)
A clear white wine, of thin body; high, sharp acid, and fairly developed
bouquet.
Chauche Oris, 1884- (From R. Barton, Fresno.)
A light topaz-colored wine, of heavy body; medium acid; clean vinous
flavor, accompanied by very characteristic bouquet.
155
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THE VINTAGE OF 1885.
The vintage of 1885 presents a striking contrast to that of 1884. The
extraordinary and persistent rains of the latter year, together with an un-
usual coolness of the summer, gave rise to a very large. yield of wine of low
alcohol percentage, and, generally speaking, of low quality; while early
rains gave or caused a good many of the late grapes to burst open and
become mouldy before they could be gathered, thus giving rise to unsound-
ness from the presence of improper fermentations.
The early cessation of rains in 1885, together with some late frosts fol-
lowed by a very warm summer and autumn, caused a large portion of the
grape bloom to fail in setting at all, and much of what did set was after-
wards lost by premature dropping off — ^^couhtre.^' The crop was therefore a
light one as a whole, and in some regions almost a total failure. Where a
fair crop remained on the vines, the bunches very generally contained a good
many of the berries that had at various times succumbed to coulure, and
toward the vintage many had become more or less tainted with mould; at
all events had in them much material that should, if possible, have been
excluded from the red-wine vat. The sound grapes matured very early and
rapidly, so that the vintage had to be done in a hurry, even though there was
only a half crop; hence the needful picking over of the bunches was but
rarely done. Except in the high locations, as on the Santa Cruz Range,
and some parts of the higher foothills, nearly all grapes of the first crop
contained an unusual amount of sugar, ranging from 24 to 32 per cent, so
that in many cases a complete fermentation was practically impossible.
It was generally reported that fermentation started in very rapidly and
continued so for some days; then it often suddenly ceased and left the wine
sweet, to the extent of from 3 to 6 per cent, and even more. Where a
second crop or late Mission grapes were available, these were successfully
used to carry the main crop through, by reviving the fermentation. But
where this resource was not available, the sweet wines remained still or, in
many cases, gradually resumed a feeble fermentation. Where only sound
grapes had entered the tanks this second fermentation has often carried
the wine to dry safely to dryness; but where unsound grapes had been
thrown in, and after the stoppage of the vinous fermentation had had time
to develop their various fermentative germs, "milk-sourness" has promptly
supervened, and the wines, still sweet, have had to be consigned to the still.
There can be little question as to the main cause of the so called "diffi-
cult fermentations" of 1885. The season being very hot, the gathering and
crushing hasty, and the grapes full of sugar and fermentative germs, the
tanks very commonly started at and over 80° F., and within twenty-four
hours, with a stormy evolution of carbonic gas, rose to 100° F. and over,
paralyzing and in very many cases completely killing the yeast, and in the
case of unsound grapes having been used, starting the lacto-butyric and
mannite fermentation at the appropriate high temperature. Then on cool-
ing, the vinous fermentation might or might not be resumed, but the other
processes would surely progress and carry the wine toward milk-sourness.
Many suggestions of miscellaneous additions to remedy this state of things
were made at the time, but nothing short of a complete destruction of the
unsound germs by pasteurizing, and a revival of a sound fermentation by
means of raisin mashes, could now make such wines safe. The funda-
mental fault, that of allowing hot grapes to go into a tank and start fer-
mentation in a still hotter atmosphere freely admitted to the fermenting
158
rooms, has not generally been recognized, and all kinds of crude explana-
tions have been offered ; but when it comes to be understood that wherever
the faults above referred to were sedulously avoided, no difficulty whatever
has been experienced in carrying all wines not having an excessive propor-
tion of sugar to a sound dryness, the situation will be better appreciated.
It is true that cases have been reported in which it is stated that the
temperature did not rise too high for the vinous fermentation; but we have
still to learn how those temperatures were ascertained. No matter what
may be the average temperature of a tank after stirring, all the needful
mischief may have been done by the yeast, rising from below, being con-
secutively brought in contact with the hot under surface of the cap; while
neither the top of the latter, nor the wine in the body of the tank, would
show a higher temperature than might be admissible. It is still to be
hoped that the lesson taught by this vintage will not pass unheeded, and
that the mischievous practice of hot-and-fast fermentations will be aban-
doned by those who desire to make sound shipping wines hereafter.
Some special points, noted in the vintage of 1885, are given in the sub-
joined Bulletin (No. 51), and the data upon which they are based may be
found in the tables given in the body of this report. The majority of the
wines made in the Viticultural Laboratory in 1885 have not as yet been
tasted or analyzed.
BULLETIN No. 51.
THE WINES OF 1885.
As the time for the first racking of the vintage of 1885 is at hand, it is of some interest
to discuss the results obtained in the fermentations made at the Viticultural Laboratory,
and in the examination of wines sent in for analysis, in order that the merits and defects
of this vintage may be compared with those of previous seasons, and the after treatment
and blending governed accordingly.
Of forty lots of grapes sent in, thirty-four were sufficiently large for wine-making. Of
these thirty-four fermentations not one offered any difficulty, the temperature of the cel-
lar being kept somewhat higher than last season, viz., at or near 75°. This temperature
would, of course, have been undesirably high for larger masses of wine, but for the sam-
ples not exceeding ten gallons proved just right, the highest temperature reached by any
one during the violent fermentation being 80°. All fermented out completely during the
usual time (of about a week for red wines), cleared rapidly after drawing off, and are
sound in every respect. The only exception in regard to regularity of fermentation arose
from an accident to the gas jet regulating the temperature in a' .space set apart for the
fermentation of small samples, in which the temperature one morning was found to have
risen to 110'. This had completely stopped the fermentation, and apparently killed the
yeast, for fermentation was not resumed in the course of three days, although the sugar
was only half fermented out. But upon addition of about 30 per cent of fresh must just
started in fermentation, the whole went through rapidly and made a perfectly sound, dry
wine. There is, of course, nothing new in this, but it is mentioned as undoubtedly typical
of a great number of cases of reported " difficult fermentation" during the past vintage,
exemplified in a number of samples of wine received for analysis.
Of thirty-nine such samples thus far received, the extraordinarily large proportion of
17 or nearly 44 per cent contained unfermented sugar in proportions varying from a trifle
(say ^ per cent) to a little more than 6, but mostly from 3 to 5. In one case as much as 10
per cent remained in a wine which, besides, was thoroughly acetified and " milk-sour."
This wine, it was ascertained, started finely during very hot weather; was allowed to form
a "cap" without stirring-in (fonlage), and' suddenly stopped while sweet, evidently from
a too great rise of temperature. Then, while being left with the hope that the fermenta-
tion would revive of its own accord, it went wholly wrong and was fit only for the still.
In thiscase, as in many last season, the total amount of sugar originally in the must
was considerably greater than that which could ferment out in any case, viz., over 35 per
cent. But the alcohol had only been formed to the extent of 11 per cent, while under
proper treatment over 15 might have been reached before fermentation stopped, as was
actually done in several cases now before us.
TANNIN AND ACID.
Apart, however, from the unfermented sugar, and from cases of gross mismanagement
like the above, both the wines made at the Viticultural Laboratory and the bulk of those
sent in, exhibit peculiarities which seem to belong to the vintage as such, independently
of grape varieties ; and also, to some extent, of the unusual degree of ripeness attained
159
by them. The most prominent of these are hirger proportions of both tartaric acid and
tannin, appearing in cases where comparison with previous seasons is available.
Thus we find in Gallegos' Zinfandel, from Mission San Jose, in which tlie tannin usually
ranged between 7 and 8.5 (10,000ths), from 11 to 12, and in a sample from the old Palmer
(hill) vineyard, at the same place, the extraordinary amount of 24; in the Cabernets from
the Santa Clara Valley, heretofore showing from 10 to 11, now from IG to 17.5 tannin.
Similar results are now shown from other localities and varieties ; and where the deter-
minations have not yet been made, the taste indicates a similar increase over previous
vintages.
As regards acid, the analyses show that where from 4.5 to 5.0 pro mille has been the rule,
from 6 to 8 now fr^,quently appear in the must, at least, and so proportionallj' for
lower degrees of acidity. But neither in the musts nor in the wines did this higher acidity
appear unpleasantly, doubtless for the reason that the unusually heavy body and high
alcoholic strength disguises the acidity and renders it harmonious with the other charac-
ters of the product.
It is hardly necessary to insist upon the importance of these points as regards not only
the quality of the 1885 wines for direct consumption, but especially their value for blend-
ing with previous vintages. It would be extremely desirable to verify the general validity
of the above indications by wider comparisons, both as to varieties and localities.
ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH — ARRESTED FERMENTATIONS.
Since in all but the higher locations the saccharine strength of the musts was high in
1885, so ought to be the alcoholic strength of the resulting wines; and this is found to
be the case where fermentation has gone through, the extraordinary strength of 16 per
cent having been observed in one case, and 15 in quite a number. But, as stated above,
in a great many cases some sugar has remained unconverted, and that not only where
the sugar exceeded the amount that can be fermented out, but also in many in which the
maximum of alcohol would not nearly have been reached; and yet only from 10 to 12
per cent was actually formed. In all of these that have been reliably reported, the great
vigor of the first fermentation is noted, and surprise expressed that, after such a good
beginning, it should not have gone through. In fact, the prompt and vigorous starting of
the fermentation is very commonly dwelt upon, and has been similarly noted in the fer-
mentations made at the University Laboratory, as well as in the wineries visited during
the vintage. It is the usual and predicable outcome of a season like that of 1885, in which
all grape varieties matured fully, and should exhibit their best qualities in their wines, if
carefully treated.
A vigorous beginning of fermentation necessarily implies an abundance both of yeast-
forming material — "germ food" — and of yeast germs. If it stops .short of the natural
limit imposed by the formation of alcohol or exhaustion of sugar, it must be because some
influence hostile to the life of the yeast has intervened; and unless more than mere guess-
work or conjecture shows the contrary, that influence must be supposed to be excessive
rise of temperature, as a result of this same vigorous action. The common practice of
crushing grapes coming hot from the vineyard, renders this a matter of much more easy
and common occurrence than most persons imagine; and considering the warm weather
prevailing during the last vintage season, it is probable that most of the cases of arrested
fermentation would lose their alleged mysteriousness, if this simple and well-known cause
were properly taken into account.
Omitting for the present the discussion of the means to be employed for the coinpletion
of the fermentation of wines containing several per cent of unconverted sugar, I desire
to call the attention of those having only a small remnant of sugar to deal with, to the
importance of a tliorough deration of such wines in racking. This is easily done by using
a rose spout instead of a solid stream from the faucet or hose, and letting the stream fall
some distance.
The effect of aeration in promoting the vinous fermentation and in eliminating unde-
sirable ingredients, is well understood, and is in Germany very commonly applied to the
must previous to fermentation, in order to carry it through more promptly and regularly.
In P'rance it is more especially used in the '^foulage" of red wines — the daily repeated
stirring-in of the pomace; in Spain and Portugal it forms the essential effect of the long
and laborious treading given to the grapes, and is among the main points in the after-
treatment of ports and sherries. It is not, therefore, an innovation, but a well-proved
means of promoting the fermentation, the soundness, and especially the clearing of wines.
Its efficacy has been well exemplified during the past vintage, by the ready fermentation
of Zinfandels subjected to regular foitlage, to over 15 per cent of alcohol, while others, of
the same saccharine strength, but fermented without aeration by the aid of a submerged
frame, have remained partially sweet. Similarly the aeration in racking, suggested above
and forming a good general rule as well, promotes the after-fermentation and will help
to get rid of small remnants of sugar, up to one per cent or thereabouts. With proper
care in the after-treatment, such aeration involves no danger of acetification or "pricking,"
and tends to prevent " milk-sourness."
160
THE UNIVERSITY EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARD AT CUPERTINO, SANTA CLARA
COUNTY.
Section nine of " an Act for the promotion of the \dticultural interests of
the State," contains the following provision:
The Board of Regents of the University shall be authorized to receive and accept dona-
tions of lands suitable for experimental vineyards and stations, and shall submit in their
next annual report an economical plan for conducting such vineyards, and for the propa-
gation and distribution of specimens of all known and valuable varieties of grape vines.
Extended operations under this section have not been practicable, in the
absence of appropriations sufficiently large to permit of the acceptance, on
the condition of actual occupancy, of several tracts offered. In one case,
however, the conditions were so generous as to require no more than the
proper attention and instructions on the part of the University, the expenses
of cultivation being borne by the proprietor, Mr. John T. Doyle, of Menlo
Park. The vineyard plot of which the use is granted the University, forms
part of Mr. Doyle's vineyard at Cupertino, Santa Clara County, and con-
sisted originally of thirty-seven rows, eight feet apart, of forty vines each,
the latter being, at the time, three-year-old Zinfandels. These were, in
1884, grafted to the following varieties of wine grapes:
Grossblaue. Herbemont.
Crabb's Burgundy. Franken Riesling.
Ploussard (Portal). Pisutello di Roma.
Camay Teinturier (Crabb). Chauche Gris (Gris D'Ischia).
Barbera. Sauvignon Blanc.
Malbeck. Johannisberg Riesling.
Verdot. West's White Prolific.
Carignane. Kleinberger (True Burger).
Cabernet Franc (Portal). Chasselas Fontainebleau.
Petite Sirah. Semillon.
Poulsart? "Golden Chasselas."
Chauche Noir. Burger.
Fresa (Monfra). Seedless Sultana.
Bonarda. Muskateller.
Malbenie ? Huasco Muscat.
Barbarossa. Lignanga.
Five other varieties, partly imported by Mr. Doyle from Italy.
Besides these, Mr. Doyle's vineyard contains, on soil substantially identical, the follow-
ing other varieties: Zhifandel, Charbono, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, and Cab. Sauvignon
(direct importation), Trousseau.
Most of the grafts took well, and those which had not, were re-grafted to
the same varieties in 1885. It was expected that in that year at least a
small crop would be obtained from them, but the season being so univer-
sally unfavorable, the product was too small to serve for more than an
identification of varieties in doubtful cases.
In view of the additional important varieties that have come prominently
into notice in 1884, Mr. Doyle has offered to increase the allotment by
twenty or more rows, making sixty in all, or twenty-four hundred vines, cov-
ering about three and one half acres.
The land on which this tract is located forms part of the gently undula-
ting valley slope that lies between the Santa Clara Valley proper and the
Coast Range, and into the higher part of which Cupertino Creek and its
branches have cut narrow and deep abrupt valleys. The experimental
plot assigned to the University lies immediately adjacent to the valley of
the main Cupertino on the west, and about 50 feet above it. The soil is a
drab-tinted clay loam, largely intermixed with gravel and rock fragments,
showing the whole to consist of the wash from the adjacent and other
161
ranges lying toward New Almaden. In the bluff banks that fall off steeply
into the creek bottom, it can readily be seen that the same materials, only
with larger proportions of gravel and yellow, instead of a drab-colored
loam, extend down nearly to the creek level. It is perfectly penetrable by
both water and root, the latter being seen in it at levels from twelve to even
twenty feet below the trees and vines to which they belong. The land is,
therefore, perfectly underdrained, and fulfills one essential condition of first
class wine grape land. It is, of course, easily workable soon after rains.
The analysis of the soil has not been completed, but it is undoubtedly
similar in composition to other tracts located near the foot of the Coast
Range, a few miles away, the analysis of which shows from 2.5 to 3.0 per
cent of lime, about 1.0 of potash, .10 of phosphoric acid, and over 2.0 per
cent of humus; therefore, a very rich and durable soil, likely to 'yield
heavy-bodied wines of high alcoholic strength.
So far as the wines from Mr. Doyle's vineyard have come under observa-
tion, they amply fulfill the anticipations based upon the quality of the soil.
The representative Zinfandel yields, annually, wines having over 3.0 of
body, and from 13.0 to 15.0 of alcohol, together with the relatively high
proportion of tannin that seems to belong to the west-side slope of the
Santa Clara Valley. Other varieties show similar characteristics.
The University tract being practically level, and the soil of remarkable
uniformity, it will thus show characteristically the natural differences be-
tween the grapes and wines of the several varieties; being, in this respect,
parallel to the case of Mr. H. W. Crabb, a comparison of whose varied
wines is given under the report of the work for 1883, page 70. Moreover,
the soil being a very much generalized one for the west side of the Santa
Clara Valley, the points elicited will be applicable to a large region, from
the neighborhood of Mountain View to that of New Almaden. The rmm-
ber of vines representing each variety (40) was gauged upon the expecta-
tion that each should yield, on an average, not less than ten pounds of
grapes, which would be sufficient to yield the desirable minimum quantity
of a half barrel of wine for experimental fermentations. The latter will,
in part, be conducted at the well equipped winery of Mr. Doyle, close at
hand; partly, so far as it may seem advisable, at the University Viticultural
Laboratory.
Should the example of wise liberality set by Mr. Doyle be followed by
others having vineyards in representative locations, it would soon become
possible, by combining the local study of soils with that of the wines
yielded by the several classes of grapes, to predict for extended regions the
general and most essential characteristics to be looked for, thus indicating
the direction in which those planting new vineyards would be likely to find
the best results.
11'
162
PART lY.
RECORD OF WORK RELATING TO THE PHYLLOXERA AND
rrS REPRESSION.
BIOLOGY OF THE PHYLLOXERA.
The subjoined bulletin concerning this subject is self-explanatory:
BULLETIN No. 19.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PHYLLOXERA, MADE DURING 1884.
[When, a few years ago, the vineyard plot on the University grounds passed into the
charge of the College of Agriculture", it was soon discovered that it was strongly infested
with the phylloxera. It was at first intended to extirpate the pest as quii;kly as possible ;
but, when it became obvious that the law intended to prevent the further spread from
infested districts could and would not be enforced, the fact that there are no vineyards so
situated as to be liable to infection through natural causes from this locality, while it offers
an excellent opportunity for the systematic observation of the habits of the insect in this
climate, and for experiments with remedies and resistant vines, caused the idea of the
immediate extirpation to be abandoned in favor of the experimental use of the plot. It is
hardly necessary to say thal^ever since, a rigorous system of disinfection has obviated all
danger of the accidental transmission of the insect to uninfected districts. The summary
report of Mr. Morse, given below, shows the results of this season's observations. — E. W.
HiLGARD.]
It has been supposed, heretofore, that only a part of the recognized forms of the phyl-
loxera exist in California. This apparent divergence from the natural habits of the insect
has given direction to the investigations which nave been carried on at the University.
A partial report on the forms found in our own vineyard plot was published in the
report of the Agricultural Department for 1882, and may here be briefly summarized. It
shows that the larva% and a small proportion of the wingless mother insects, jjass the
winter in a dull, lifeless condition, but are easily brought to life and activity by a proper
change in temperature; that the middle of April finds the adult mother beginning to lay;
and that soon after young larva? are produced and scattered to all parts of the roots.
The increase is slow" until about the middle of .June. Shortly after, the larval form
with rudimentary wings appears, and by the first of July the winged form is found fully
developed. The eggs of the mother louse are most abundant at the end of the same
month, and at the same time a decrease in the number of adult mothers becomes appa-
rent; the maximum number of larva; is also reached. Only a few eggs are usually found
after October, and very little action is noticeable after I^Tovember. The time of these
changes, however, will vary greatly with the season.
In the laboratory it was found that a single insect produced seventy-five eggs, laid fre-
quently at the rate of five per day; some days none at all were produced. Thirteen days
are required to hatch them, and seventeen more for the develojiment into egg-laying
mothers.
The object of investigation since the above was published has been toward determining
the existence, habits, and movements of less familiar forms.
The late rains this summer have stimulated a generous growth of those finer roots on
which the winged-form is produced in greatest abundance. Around such roots were
])laced properly arranged " trai)s," viz.: glass jars or bottles, partially buried in the soil. A
rapid production of the winged form was noted from the twentieth of August to the begin-
ning of September; some were developed as late as October tenth. As many as five eggs
were laid by some of the confined winged in.sects, before death; none of these eggs, how-
ever, were observed to hatch, hence no sexual individuals were obtained.
In arranging the glass jar "traps," the soil was considerably loosened up, and thus was
prepared the way for the migration of the winged insects, which occurred about the twen-
tieth of August, when they could be found in considerable numbers crawling about upon
the small lumps of earth, preparatory to taking wing. Only one was actually seen to fly
up to the vine, although others were found quietly fixed upon the under side of some of
the leaves. This, passing through the loosened earth, and later, through the unmolested
soil, continued up to the present time.
163
The insect, in various stages of development, could be found in the earth from the sur-
face to the roots, the most incomplete forms being found deepest below the surface of the
ground. Some were found under stones, and in such positions as to place it beyond a
doubt that they passed through the changes under-ground, and came to the surface in a
transformed condition, contrary to the accepted belief of a transformation at the surface
of the ground.
A peculiar circumstance was noticed on the twentieth of August, in the appearance of
a large number of larvaj upon the surface of the ground. They were found as much as
two feet from the stock, and from three to twelve inches from the fine roots, as well as
through the soil to the roots. The significance of their appearing in this manner can be
appreciated when we learn that they crawl upon bits of rubbish, sticks, leaves, etc., upon
the spot, and even take kiiidly to .growing canes placed in their way.
Up to August twenty-sixth no sjiecimens of the gall louse, or leaf-inhabiting form of the
phylloxera, had been identified at the University, or elsewhere in California, so far as
known. At this time the fresh young leaves near the ends of three canes, which stretch
from a " Canada " vine toward the infested stock, bore a few peculiarly formed galls, con-
taining egg-laying mother-lice as well as eggs, and numerous larva;. A few isolated and
abandoned ones were also found on the old leaves, nearer the stock of the vine. It thus
seemed probable that the root-inhabiting form had here changed its habit toward that of
the gall louse, a point still held in dispute by the French scientists.
An attempt was, therefore, made to produce more galls upon the foliage of the " Canada "
vine, by infecting it with larva; from the roots of the adjoining infested stock. A cane
was led from the opposite side of the resistant vine, and its terminal leaves fastened to an
infested spot of soil. The leaves and part of the canes were soon covered with young
larvse, and a few quiet winged insects, the former passing freely about upon the leaves,
but forming no galls, or, at least, only doubtful and abortive attempts. Some of the young
leaves upon the infested canes were pierced by young larva?, which had settled just outside
of the fresh galls, and had remained until a red, dead spot had been formed. Others of
the larvse were seen crawling about; but they did not seem to establish galls. Contrary to
the usual habit of the gall louse, they kept mostly upon the under side of the leaf. It thus
appears that, at least so late in the season, the change of habit from root to leaf is not
readily made.
Of the known enemies to the phylloxera, only two forms were identified during our obser-
vations. The phylloxera thrips were seen passing about in considerable numbers upon the
leaves, and some even came from the galls, many of which they had cleared of their
inhabitants. A few specimens of the tyroglyphus, or phylloxera mite, appeared among the
winged insects that were taken from the "trap." They were also found upon the roots of
adjoining vines. It is, therefore, probal)le that its usual enemies have accompanied the
phylloxera to California.
Several practically important conclusions result from the above observations. It appears
that the light summer rains of the season have favored, to an extraordinary degree, the
development and activity of the pest, especially of its winged form, most dangerous as the
carrier of infection ; and that this form was developed through the months of July, August,
and September, and a part of October, while the numbers and activity of the larvse, in
ascending through and diffusing themselves over the soil, was greatest toward the end of
August. Any measures to prevent the spread of the insect during the season should,
therefore, be taken prior to August, at least.
It is also shown how readily the young insects will ascend through the soil from super-
ficial rootlets, and will attach themselves to any object lying in their way, so that infection
may be carried readily from one vineyard to another by the mere passage of a wagon,
plow, or other implement, as well as through fruit boxes, prunings, and cuttings. Especially
are the eggs of the winged form liable to be thus carried, even by gusts of wind taking up
leaves, etc. The gall louse form, now also recognized here, adds danger to this vehicle.
Finally, it is clearly shown that, in ordinary soils, no preventive used only around the
stock of the vine, can offer .security against the ascent of either the winged or wingless form
to the surface from outlying shallow rootlets, from which they can freely migrate to other
uninfested stocks; and that, therefore, the utmost care alone can check the progress of
the pest after it has once gained a footing.
Berkeley, October 10, 1884. F. W. MORSE.
The record of the observations, upon which the above statements are
based, together with additional observations made during 1885, are given
in the subjoined report of Mr. Morse:
164
1. OBSERVATIONS ON THE LIFE HISTORY AND HABITS OF THE
PHYLLOXERA IN CALIFORNIA.
Made from 1881 to 1886 by F. W. Morse, Assistant in the General Agricultural Laboratory.
In the following pages I give a summary of the results of observations
made upon the phylloxera, since its discovery in the University vineyard
plot in November of 1881. Partial reports of the same have already
appeared in previous publications of the Agricultural Department, the
whole of which, with additional observations made since, are here arranged
in a somewhat modified form.
The subject was taken up immediately after the discovery of the insect,
the object at first being simply to study the more prominent types here, in
order to become familiar with the prevailing forms generally known to
exist in other vineyards; and, also, to note any special habits wherein they
might differ from those observed in other countries. No special attention
was originally intended to be given to the prosecution of new investigations
tending toward the settlement of disputed points regarding the biology of
the insect.
No stated time was set apart for this work, which has at all times been
carried along in conjunction with other University duties. The available
apparatus, too, has not always been all that could be desired for obtaining
thorough and complete results.
At the outset, only one form of the insect was recognized, but as the work
advanced, new and unfamiliar forms continually appeared, until we have,
by a happy coincidence of special fitness of vine varieties and surroundings,
witnessed the production of most of the forms known to foreign investigators.
The importance of such a line of investigation, under such circumstances,
becomes apparent, when we consider that among the various forms which
the insect is capable of assuming only a part, and these of the forms which
are least easily spread, have thus far been seen in appreciable numbers in
California vineyards. A solution of this apparent divergence from the
habits of the insect, as observed elsewhere, gives direction to the investiga-
tions Avhich have been carried on.
THE UNIVERSITY VINEYARD PLOT.
The University vineyard plot, in which the field observations were made,
and the specimens for laboratory work were taken, is situated upon the
north side of the University grounds, and upon the extreme east of that
part of the tract which was placed under the control of the Agricultural
Department, and set apart for experimental purposes. It has a southeast
exposure, which renders it somewhat more favorable than the lower lands
to the earlier " putting out " of the \'ine and consequent longer season which
is needed in this locality.
The soil is a heavy, refractory clay loam, not easily cultivated except
upon the surface, and is underlaid by a stiffer clay at a depth of a few
inches, followed at a slightly lower depth by an intermixture of coarse
gravel and rocks, thus forming a soil ill adapted to vine growth, and a sub-
soil not easily ])enetrated by the roots. The plot, which is from the nature
of the soil difficult to drain, is relieved of this trouble, to a great extent,
by the steep inclination and loose-walled bank on the lower side.
The total number of old vines (and some young ones intermixed, which
165
have been grafted on resistant stocks) amount to only sixty-eight, includ-
ing, beside the common vinifera varieties, some that in other countries
have shown special fitness for certain forms of the phylloxera, and which
are not found among the infected vineyards of our State. Some of these
are hybrids of stock, elsewhere bearing the gall type of insects in abun-
dance.
Thus we have been specially fortunate in having a collection of varieties
which, presumably, make it possible to produce and study all types that
have been observed elsewhere.
The Winter State of the Insect. — The first important point to be considered
was to determine the habits and movements of the insect at different seasons
of the year, and especially to note their condition during the winter. This
was accomplished by repeated examinations during each of the winter
months, of vines most productive of the insect. No obvious movement to
lower parts of the root-system, such as was predicted, was noticeable; but
merely a dying out of the different forms upon the older and most decayed
parts of the root; the healthier fibers and wood always supporting the insect
most abundantly. Even in mid-winter the wingless root form appeared
clear to the surface, and even above the ground, where tuberous spots
afforded them nourishment and protection. If the winter proved too
severe, portions of the root-bark were often found covered with black
"lumps" of dead phylloxera mingled with small and shriveled brown
•ones, in positions similar to those in which they were found late in the fall.
Field Observations during the Season of 1881-2. — The observations
during the winter of 1881-2, which was cold and was followed by a late
spring, revealed the insects numerously settled upon all parts of the roots
and even in mid-winter at the surface of the ground on the base of a last
year's sucker. On December eighth the insect was found in decreasing
numbers on the old roots, and confined to groups of five or six on the health-
iest parts of young roots. They were mostly of the mother form and only
a few larvse. Later in December the preponderance of the mother form
was still apparent, and the general settled conditions of the groups was
specially noted.
Frequent examinations during the months of January, February, and
March, showed no special change, save a more sluggish condition and a
darkening of color.
It was not until the twenty-eighth of April that signs of returning life
were visible. Scattering eggs, in groups, from three to five in number, very
transparent and quite large, were found surrounding some of the more
mature insects which were then becoming yellow but still seem not to have"
moved from their winter positions. No very young larvae were to be found,
although they were soon after. May first, hatched from a bottled specimen
taken from the vineyard at this time and placed under more favorable
conditions, in a warm laboratory. A casual examination of specimens put
aside in an unsealed fruit-jar proved the roots to be literally covered with
insects, only a few of which were mothers; the remainder consisted of
young larvae and eggs. The warm and even temperature of the room was
undoubtedly the cause of their earlier activity, and demonstrates the fact
that a relatively high temperature is all that is required for the continuance
of activity during the winter. This presumption is further borne out by
their earlier appearance in 1884, when the spring was fully six weeks in
advance of an average year. In the early part of March, before the begin-
166
ning of the budding of the vine, specimens could be found which would do
credit to the insect under the favorable conditions of fall.
The month of May showed a slow but steady increase of the different
forms, beginning particularly under the bark of older roots and later
increasing most rapidly on fibrous roots of the present year's growth. The
insects seemed to be of a more greenish color than at other times. A marked
increase in the rapidity of production was noticeable during the last days
of June; still the spread had not yet become general for the season.
First Appearance of the Winged Form. — It was in the following month
(July, 1882), that the first indication of the winged form appeared. Insects
resembling larvae were found, with black antennae and legs, and upon each
side of the back, extending along the body, were dark spots, covering the
rudimentary wings which distinguishes this as the wing-pad, or " pupa "
stage of development. One of these insects was preserved, and by the
twenty-sixth of July had developed into a small, live, fertile winged phyl-
loxera, and was transferred to a small vial, where she laid a single egg
and died. Others of these pupae were found later without much difficulty
on similar roots; and others of the winged form have since been easily
developed. Their changes during metamorphosis into complete forms were
watched with exceeding interest, but need not be described here.
Some of the insects which were most developed, and had the wing-pads
well formed, were placed upon a glass slide, covered with a watch glass,
and then properly arranged under a microscope. The transformation soon
took place. A shedding of the skin precedes the spreading of the wings,
and is begun by the dark skin separating horizontally over the wing-pads,
a part shedding toward the abdominal segment, and the remainder passing
over the head and legs, thereby changing these members and the antenna?
to a much lighter color. This operation, in one case, was completed in
about fifteen minutes. The wings, which appeared to be folded in a light-
colored bunch directly across the back, now part in the middle, gi\ang
them the appearance of two white or light-colored sacks. These gradually
expand laterally from the base, continually carrying the apparent casings
in a bunch at the end of the wings until the full length is reached, after
which the greater part of the spreading is done. The whole apparent
casings are merely folded wings.
One hour and fifteen minutes was consumed in passing from the begin-
ning of the shedding of the skin to the complete winged insect, which soon
became active and began crawling about. The body of the insect, in the
meantime, had passed from a light hue to a more intense dark j'ellow, or
golden color, while the wings, which before the moulting were black, pass
■ to a light, or white opaque, then become transparent, and, as they spread,
become thinner and darker, and in the fully developed condition are almost
black.
A newly developed winged insect was taken from a moist bottle and
placed upon a glass plate, where she soon made attempts to fly. Her wet
wings were repeatedly brought perpendicularly over her back and rvibbed
together, apparently to free them from moisture, and then she attempted
to leap, or fly, often raising, by a peculiar curve, from two to six inches
high. With the last attempt she flew away.
Roots Producing the Winged Form. — The vigorous, bushy, fibrous growth,
or network of roots around the tap-root, evidently caused by manuring and
moisture, seemed best to fulfill the necessary conditions for the develo}>
167
ment of the winged females. It was later shown that these fibrous roots
were specially productive of this form; in fact, it is very seldom that it is
found on other roots.
Conditions of their Development — Invasion of 1884- — Here it may be well
to suggest as a possible explanation for the greater production of the winged
form in France, that the more thorough fertilization of the vineyards in
that country has favored a more general growth of the surface roots upon
which the winged form is mainly produced; also, that the late spring and
summer rains bring about a similar condition of growth. The summer
rains alone of France, which last far into August and September, would be
quite sufficient to produce surface roots of the kind required to produce
winged insects in great abundance. It is just previous to this time that
the winged invasion occurs, when the insect is carried in swarms to adja-
cent vineyards This is a point which I believe has never been suggested,
and the truth of which seems to be supported by experience in this State,
for neither of the conditions spoken of is ordinarily realized to any extent
in California. But the unusual summer rains that occurred in 1884, and
which were followed by such a great general development of insect pests
in 1885, seemed to impart also to that of the winged phylloxera a similar
impetus ; as for the first time since observations were begun, this form was
during that season found to issue in swarms like those observed elsewhere,
doubtless greatly increasing its spread.
We are further justified in supposing that there must be some peculiar
condition for their development in districts where only occasionally evi-
dent signs of their workings are visible; and in no case have the winged
insects been found in such numbers as were developed in 1884.
At the middle of October, 1882, the insects were still numerous, eggs
plentiful, and the mothers still laying; the winged form had entirely dis-
appeared. About the middle of November I found only one of the mother-
lice fully developed; the remaining insects scattered over the roots were
young larvae, healthy and quite active. Some were blackened and lifeless,
but still retained the larval form. Only one egg was found.
December twentieth none of the mother insects could be found; only lar-
vae, bright but motionless, were present.
Summary of Observations in 1881-2.
The condition of the insect during different times of the year may there-
fore be summarized as follows: There is a dull, lifeless condition of both
larvae and mother lice during the winter, lasting until about the middle
of April of a late season, when the hibernating mothers begin to lay their
eggs. The young larvae soon begin hatching out and scatter to all parts of
the roots. The increase is very slow until the middle of June. The winged
form begins developing about the first of July. Eggs are most numerous
about the last of July or first part of August. The old mother lice are
soon found in decreasing numbers, and young larvae are most abundant.
A gradual decrease in the number of insects begins about the first of Octo-
ber. No eggs, or scarcely any, are to be found after this month. Very
little action or life is noticeable after November.
Observations in the Laboratory, from 1881-1885. — For the better veri-
fication of the facts observed in the field, and especially for the observation
of the habits of the insects during propagation, a series of laboratory experi-
ments was carried on simultaneously with the field observations.
168
Conservation of Boot Sj^ecimens. — The first difficulty met with was to pre-
serve the root specimen in such a shape that it would not mould, and yet
remain sufficiently moist to afford sustenance to the insects. This is best
accomplished by placing a piece of root containing the required number of
insects into a wide-mouthed bottle, supplied with a close fitting cork. If
it becomes necessary to remove the cork very often, a few drops of water
may be dropped into the bottom of the bottle to supply any lost moisture,
and then, by regulating the temperature, the water can be vaporized and
condensed so as to reach all parts of the root. Some specimens were kept
in the sunlight, with a good circulation of air through the bottle, but the
insect did not thrive under this treatment. Koots thus treated are more
difficult to keep in good condition, and the insect becomes more restless.
A cool dark place seems best fitted for these experiments.
The leading questions studied were:
1. Number of eggs laid by each mother louse.
2. Rate of laying.
3. Time required to hatch them into larvee.
4. Time from the hatching of larvae to the egg-laying age.
5. Pupa form.
6. Winged form.
Number of Eggs Laid. — Two or three specimens containing isolated
mothers were placed in bottles and observed every few days. The highest
number of eggs from any of these insects was about seventy-five. Numer-
ous bottled roots have specimens of sixty to seventy eggs and larva^
together. It is not uncommon to see a nest of forty to fifty in a row, upon
one end of which the young larvse are just hatching out and moving away,
while at the other end are newly laid eggs and the old mother, now reduced
to a very small, dark colored ball without apparent life or insect shape.
This large number is not so frequently found in the vineyards.
The most prolific insects do not seem to produce a generation of the
numerous egg-laying kind. As soon as the eggs are hatched into larvas the
latter move away, while those insects producing eggs that are destined to
become laying mothers lay but few eggs, which when hatched move less
rapidly than the other kind, and are often found in groups.
Rate of Laying and Time of Hatching. — To determine the rate of laying,
properly isolated individuals were watched during their complete season of
laying." The rate was found to be very irregular, depending largely upon
circumstances. It often amounted to five per day, while at other times the
insects ceased laying altogether for several days. A single individual laid
thirty -five in seven days; another thirty- four in two weeks. At the end of
four weeks the whole generation had left the spot. The relatively limited
supply of sap furnished by a detached root probably served to restrict the
number of eggs laid. Still another insect, under less favorable circum-
stances, surrounded by a meniscus of water, which kept her almost sub-
merged, continued laying for a much longer time and at a much slower
rate. It was found that it required about thirteen days to hatch the eggs.
Duration of Larval Condition. — By deducting the time for hatcliing from
the total number of days from the first egg-laying to the egg-producing
period of the second generation, we have the time of the larval condition.
This was found to be about seventeen days.
169
PUPA FORM.
Much interest attaches to this form, since it is through it that we know
the conditions which will produce the winged form. The latter is found
with great difficulty upon the vine, while the former is readily distinguished
among its associates, the common root louse or larva, which is first sought
after in the examination of an infested vineyard. The pupas once found,
it becomes easy to trace them to the winged form, which is usually near by.
Conditions Governing the Prodtiction of Pupse. — My first observations on
the fertile winged form were made on specimens accidentally produced in
the laboratory. By tracing back to its origin the root upon which these
first individuals were found, the needful conditions and surroundings could
be determined, ^nd thus the winged form could be sought for more intelli-
gently, and found in greater numbers. As before noted, the small, soft,
fibrous rootlets of the current year's growth had seemed to be most pro-
ductive of the form from which the winged insect is developed. (See page
166.)
Movements and Transformation of the Pupa Form. — The movements of the
pupa, or wing-pad insect, observed chiefly during 1884, were not found to
be altogether along the smaller roots and thence up the main body to the
crown of the root, as is usually supposed, but the insects frequently left the
roots and passed up through the soil, which in no place was less than three
inches deep. This movement afforded an excellent opportunity for deter-
mining where the transformation into the winged form takes place.
The insect in various stages of development could be found in the earth
from the surface to the roots, the most incomplete forms being found deep-
est below the surface of the ground. Some were found under stones, and
in such positions as to place it beyond a doubt that they passed through
the changes underground, and came to the surface in a transformed con-
dition, contrary to the accepted belief of a transformation at the surface of
the ground.
THE WINGED FORM.
The late rains of the Summer of 1884, the season in which nearly all the
field studies of the pupa and winged form were made, produced a generous
supply of the white, club-shaped rootlets, thus enabling us with properly
arranged "traps," and bottles buried in the soil, to study the winged and
other forms. A beaker was also inverted over some of the bared roots, and
in one or two days an abundant supply of the winged form was found flying
about, and crawling upon the side of the beaker which was most exposed to
the light and warmth. The young larvae which left the roots for the
smooth glass constituted a large proportion of the active insects. A bottle
which was in a cooler place, showed them in far less numbers.
A steady and rapid production of winged individuals ensued from the
beginning of the experiment, August twentieth, through September, and a
few were developed even later. A large number of the confined winged
insects soon laid eggs, often as many as five for each indi\ddual. None of
these eggs, however, were observed to hatch; hence no sexual individuals
were produced.
Migration of Winged Insects. — In arranging the glass jar "traps" the soil
was considerably loosened up, and thus was prepared the way for the mi-
170
gration of the winged insects, which occurred about the twentieth of August^
when they could be found in considerable numbers crawling about upon
the small lumps of earth, preparatory to taking wing. Only one was
actually seen to fly up to the vine, although others were found quietly fixed
upon the under side of some of the leaves. This passing through the
loosened earth, and later through the unmolested soil, continued up to the
tenth of October, when the rains fallen a few days before put an end to the
development.
We had thus a continuous movement of this form coming to the surface
of the ground, not only from the loosened earth, but as was seen later, also
from the harder and unmolested soil. This was kept up until the fibrous
roots were destitute of pupse, though still badly infested with young larvae.
After the discovery of the winged form in the University ^ineyard, a con-
siderable increase in numbers was noticed elsewhere. Never before had it
appeared so plentifully as during the summer of 1884. While the pecu-
liarly favorable conditions of root growth found at Berkeley may not obtain
in all vineyards elsewhere, still equally favorable ones may be presented.
Yet, the more numerous cases of obvious rapid devastation raise a strong
presumption in favor of the belief of a more widespread increase of this pest
since, than before 1884.
Movement of Young Larvse through the Soil. — A peculiar circumstance
was noticed on the twenty-sixth of August, 1884, in the appearance of a large
number of larvae upon the surface of the ground. They were found as
much as two feet from the stock, and from three to twelve inches from the
fine roots, as well as through the soil to the roots. The significance of
their appearing in this manner can- be appreciated when we learn that they
crawl upon 'bits of rubbish, sticks, leaves, etc., upon the spot, and even take
kindly to growing canes placed in their way.
Just how far they can travel on the surface of the ground in this manner
we are not able to say, but certainly it increases the probability of their
being transported upon boxes and loose packages which are scattered so
promiscuously about the vineyard at that time of the year. It further
shows that the insect is not altogether dependent upon interlacing roots
beneath the ground for the means of spreading from vine to vine. Small
lumps of earth below the surface of the ground, supplied with the smallest
rootlets, were thoroughly infested with the insect. Thus it is evident that
the rapidity of infection, or spreading, will surely be influenced by the
nature of the soil, i. e., the greater or less facility with which the insect can
travel over it, or along the cracks in heavy soil. In sandy soils the progress
of the larvse is very slow and toilsome.
THE GALL LOUSE.
Up to August twenty-sixth, 1884, no specimens of the gall louse, or leaf
inhabiting form of the phylloxera, had been identified at the University, or
elsewhere in California, so far as known. At that time the fresh young
leaves near the ends of three canes, which stretched from a " Canada" vine
toward an infested stock, bore a few peculiarly formed galls, containing
egg-laying mother lice as well as eggs, and numerous larvae. A few iso-
lated and abandoned ones were also found on the old leaves nearer the
stock of the vine. This arrangement of a few isolated and odd galls near-
est the stump, and the peculiar fact that all the canes infested are suckers
coming from near the surface of the ground, suggests the probability that
the infection comes from the roots of the vine rather than through other
171
means. It is also noticeable that one of these canes passes directly up
through a portion of the foliage, and still does not infect the adjoining
canes. Why the gall louse should appear just at this time, when the con-
ditions for the rapid production of other forms were favorable, and not at
other times,- is a question not easily answered. We are aware that similar
freaks of change have occurred in eastern experience in numerous locali-
ties, where in 1870 the gall louse prevailed largely, the following year it had
almost entirely disappeared, or in some instances had attempted, with more
or less success, to locate upon other varieties. The change during that same
year even extended to France, showing that atmospheric changes could
not be its sole cause-.
Influence of Root Conditions. — It is more probably attributable to the
influence of the root. During the whole investigation there has been noticed
a very decided effect upon the different forms, caused undoubtedly by the
nature of the roots upon which the insects are living. In our laboratory
experiments the larva? are much smaller, more active or restless, and
apparently more numerous than upon roots in their normal state; our speci-
mens being, of course, drier, and in a poorer condition. The wing-pad
insects, in the vineyard, are formed only upon the smallest and most tuber-
ous roots, and in proportionately decreasing numbers as the roots become
harder, scarcely ever appearing upon those which have become tough and
woody.
Identity of the Root and Leaf Louse. — Regarding the above anomalous
appearance of the gall-louse type, it should be noticed that it has come upon
a vine which has had no commmiication with any outside of those with
which it has been associated for years, and probably has had no way of
becoming infected with any foreign type. If, as some maintain, there be
no direct relation between the two types, how is it that the vine has borne
them for a single year only, and that they have not appeared again in
1885? They came at a time, too, when we know that the temporary change
of the nature of the root system of the vine, caused by seasonal peculiarities,
had materially changed the nature of the other forms produced upon them.
It is said that climatic changes influence, to a certain extent, the type which
shall predominate. If it holds in this case, it must be through the stimu-
lating influence of climate on the peculiar root growth which made possible
the development of a large number of winged insects, which may possibly
have been the means through which the gall-type were developed; all extra-
ordinary growth of vine having disappeared before the gall type had been
noticed to any extent. It at least seems probable, that the root-inhabiting
form had changed its habit toward that of the gall-louse.
So soon as this opportunity of studying the relations of the two types
was presented, an attempt was made to infect a clean cane of the " Canada "
vine with the root-louse coming from the "Cornucopia" and appearing
upon the surface of the ground.
A cane was bent from the opposite side of the resistant vine, and its ter-
minal leaves fastened to an infested spot of soil. The leaves and part of
the canes were soon covered with young larvse, and a few quiet winged
insects; the former passing freely about upon the leaves but forming no
galls, or at least only doubtful or abortive attempts. Some of the young
leaves upon the infested canes were pierced by young larvse, which had
settled just outside of the fresh galls, and had remained until a red dead
spot had been formed. Others of the larvae were seen crawling about; but
172
they did not seem to establish galls. Contrary to the usual habit of the
gall-louse, they kept mostly upon the under side of the leaf.
In fact, there were very few galls formed except upon the smallest leaves.
One of these delicate leaves, an inch square, bore about thirty galls, a large
proportion of which contained young larvae which were easily seen by
looking through the leaf toward the light. Some galls even contained the
mother, larva?, and eggs.
It thus appears that, at least so late in the season, the change of habit
from root to leaf is not readily made.
Enemies to the Phylloxera. — Of the known enemies to the phylloxera,
only two forms were identified during our observations. The phylloxera thrips
were seen passing about in considerable numbers upon the leaves, and
some even came from the galls, many of which they had cleared of their
inhabitants. A few specimens of the tyroglyphus, or phylloxera^ mite, ap-
peared among the winged insects that were taken from the "trap;" they
were also found upon the roots of adjoining \anes. It is, therefore, proba-
ble that its usual enemies have accompanied the phylloxera to California.
There have been other specimens of the same seen at different places,
especially on roots taken for experimental purposes. Some were found on
the fourteenth of April, the root speciinen ha^dng been taken nearly a
month before.
Varieties of Vines Bearing the Several Forms. — In speaking of the
forms found during the investigations, it must not be understood that all of
the vines are productive of the same forms; nor must it be understood that
when we speak of the rapid production of any particular form that this
applies to all the vines infested. We are specially favored in this direc-
tion by having in our vineyard plot a few vines representing those varieties
which are more or less resistant to either type of the phylloxera. Only one
vine has developed the gall type, only one has produced the winged form
in appreciable numbers, others only when transiently assuming the neces-
sary conditions have produced them at all. If a slight growth of soft
"tuberous" rootlets be formed, we viay find pupae upon them; but upon
the rootlets of the same vine having a firmer texture none will be found.
Upon the " Cornucopia," however, this adaptability of rootlets to the pro-
duction of the winged form extends to roots of a larger and firmer growth.
This hybrid of the West's St. Peters and Clinton has produced all the forms
we have thus far observed, except the gall type, thereby showing a special
fitness for the production of the root-inhabiting types.
Here, too, we should note the peculiarity of these two vines, adjoining
each other, hybrids of the same original varieties, one producing the gall
type and not specially adapted to the root type, and the other producing
all forms of the root type with great ease and during the longest period, but
in no case bearing galls. Nearly all the observations in the past have been
taken from this vine. It still remains strong and vigorous.
Danger of Spreading by the Winged Form. — The fact that the winged
form, so far as it appeared in considerable numbers, was limited to a single
vine in our vineyard plot, necessarily diminishes greatly the probability of its
spreading to any other vineyard district from this place, and by this form.
If all the vines were equally productive of the winged insect, the probabili-
ties for infection would certainly be greatly multiplied; but there would
still be great doubts as to whether they would be carried to any great dis-
173
tance and find lodgment in a spot where the proper conditions for continued
life obtain. The winged insects have mostly been found crawling upon the
ground quite near the vine, being thus protected by the foliage above them
from the winds which might otherwise take them up into the air and trans-
port them to other districts. A few scattering ones only have been found
on the foliage, but the thick screen of trees and the ranges of high hills
in the direction of the regular winds prevailing at their time of development,
renders any actual danger from this source exceedingly remote.
COMPARISON OF EASTERN AND CALIFORNIA TYPES.
As a basis for comparison of the forms which have come under our notice
with those known to exist elsewhere, I insert the following tabulated ar-
rangement of the various forms which this insect may assume, as presented
in a report by Professor Riley. It shows at once the complexity of its forms,
and the diversity of its habits:
I. — The gall-inhabiting type, forming galls on the leaves, and presenting:
a. The ordinary egg with which the gall is crowded.
h. The ordinary larva.
r. The swollen, parthenogenetic mother, without tubercles.
II. — The root-inhabiting type, forming knots on the roots, and presenting:
aa. The ordinary egg, differing in nothing from a, except in its slightl}'
larger average size.
hh. The ordinary larva, also differing in no respect from h.
d. The parthenogenetic, wingless mother, the analogue of c, but covered
with turbercles.
e. The more oval form, destined to become winged.
/. The pupa, presenting two different appearances.
g. The winged, parthenogenetic female, also presenting two different
appearances.
h. The sexual egg or sac deposited by g, being of two sizes, and giving
birth to the true males and females.
i. The male.
j. The true female.
k. The solitary impregnated egg deposited by j.
hbb. The larva hatched from k, which, so far as is known, differs not
from the ordinary larva, except in its greater prolificacy.
I. The hibernating larva, which differs only from h in being rougher and
darker.
Forms Observed in California. — In the course of our work we have met
all the forms thus far known in the gall-inhabiting type; in the root-inhab-
iting type nearly all of the active forms represented in the table have been
observed. They have been developed up to the production of what we
have called the true sexual individuals, or, as designated in the table,
the true male and female. The winged females, which developed upon the
roots and were caught in the trap, laid the sexual eggs, but none of them
produced the individuals which would naturally have followed. No reason
can be given for the failure, more than the suggestion that the conditions may
not be favorable in a glass vessel for the production of the form whose
natural home is upon the leaves or stock. There is, also, a possibility that
these eggs may not hatch even when under favorable conditions in this
district; for the winged insect has been repeatedly seen upon the stock and
leaves in a perfectly quiet condition, but no eggs have ever been found with
them. In fact, no eggs of any kind have ever been found upon the upper
174
part of the vine. When the insects are confined in a vessel the eggs are
soon laid.
Winter Egg. — The solitary egg, commonly called the winter egg, has also
not been found, although it has been the object of diligent search at all
times. It is to this form that much attention is being directed in Euro-
pean countries, as its extinction offers a possible means of checking the
ravages of this pest. It is also supposed that a close relation exists be-
tween this egg and the gall-t3qDe. If such a relation does exist we should
have found this form later in the summer upon the \dnes which bore the
gall last year. A careful search did not reveal it last winter.
Probable Underground Development in place of the Winged Form. — The
larvae from the winter egg, of course, we have not met as a product from
the natural course of development through the winged form, but their ap-
pearance may have escaped our notice through the other parallel line of
development which is accomplished entirely underground, and which is
described as differing only in its possible greater prolificacy from the
ordinary root louse.
This line of production may have been that from which come the insects
noted in a previous report (1882). Their peculiar appearance at the time
led to doubts as to what stage of development they really represented. It
was even conjectured that they were the sexual individuals.
Professor Riley has omitted to mention in the table this supposed under-
ground male and female spoken of by M. Balbiani, which does not pass
through the winged state. According to this belief, a form similar to that
produced by the winged insects may be developed on the roots and pass
along the main trunk to the upper part of the vines and deposit eggs in
positions similar to those selected by the winged form. This peculiar
phase of development would assist in explaining some of the pecuUarities
regarding the continued prolificacy of the species in California where the
true male and female appear so rarely, if at all. They may mingle with
the common form which is so often found in considerable numbers two
or more inches above the ground.
There is generally a marked distinction between the appearance of the
young larvae which are to develop either into the winged form, or are to
become mother insects upon the roots. The latter being decidedly dull in
habit, and pear shaped, are quite easily distinguishable; the former are not so
easily recognized until the wing-pads begin to appear, but by this time they
are already so far developed that they become less active, and in bodily form
answer more nearly to the description of the wingless type. But then there
has been noticed on some of our specimens among these larva?, another form,
which in activity and outward appearance closely resembles the undeveloped
winged insect. It is of a very bright color, apparently smooth, and seems
to separate from the remainder of the generation as soon as it is capable of
moving. It is in fact never found in clusters, and mostly upon portions of
the roots which do not show signs of having been attacked. These insects
seem to be the explorers for the more sturdy productive ones which follow
them. Their peculiarities place them undoubtedly upon the side of the
winged form, and as there is presumed to exist a similar line of develop-
ment, save the formation of wings, we may justly conjecture that this is the
form corresponding in the biological series to the winged form, though
never developing wings. ,
175
Hibernating Forms. — The hibernating larva is the final form of the
year's development, upon which the future multiplication of the insect is
dependent. This, and the winter eggs, serves to carry the insect through
the winter. It seems, according to our observations, that this special pre-
caution is not necessary, and is therefore not apparent in the California
climate. Our winters are so mild that merely a cessation of work is
noticeable, and not an extermination of the common forms. The young
larva of the common egg-laying insect acts as hibernants without any
apparent special preparation, and it seems to brave our winter without any
trouble. The mother insect can also be found, although with difficulty.
The larvae themselves, in some cases, seem to have assumed some of the
qualities of the true hibernants, for they are strong, and usually darker in
oolor, often almost black.
In connection with the habits of the phylloxera during hibernation, an
instructive sample of infested root was preserved this year, in an open
vessel, filled with moist earth. The root was protected from the earth and
placed so that it could be watched through the sides of the vessel without
being disturbed. Scarcely any change has been noticed since October
fifteenth, when the specimen was prepared. Although the conditions have
been quite similar to that of ordinary vine growth, except somewhat drier,
there has been no movement to other parts of the root corresponding to the
supposed movement of the phylloxera to lower roots when winter comes
on. The insects have become somewhat darker, well developed young
larvae, with no appearance of the adult larvae form. Up to February,
1886, there has been no appearance of reviving or moving about, still the
extremities of the insect are extended and can be plainly seen as in their
natural condition in summer. It is to be hoped that interesting facts may
be gathered regarding moulting, and change of form, when they revive
later in the spring.
In previous cases, where no soil was used and the temperature of the
laboratory influenced them, eggs have been produced in mid-winter, and
production continued until the root had decayed.
The soil of the above sample was moistened in December, and a good
supply of grass roots and shoots started, but have since dried up.
It has never before been shown that the winter habits in California dif-
fered in the least from eastern countries. The winter of 1884-85 has
shown that California climate is specially favorable to the life of the phyl-
loxera. A period of three months will almost include the total time of
inactivity, for we find active insects on the last of November, and newly-
laid eggs on the first of March.
Moidiing of Hibernants. — It is usually supposed that a certain number
of moultings is necessary before the hibernants assume the mother state.
This, I think, is only partially true here, and applies, if at all, to the young-
est insects which pass as hibernants, and which were not fully developed
when winter came on.
Numerous specimens have been carefully watched during the proper
period, and no movement whatever was noticed until the insect began lay-
ing eggs. It was further observed that the abundance of young larvae
found at the close of the Season in November were in about the same posi-
tion, and apparently not changed in the spring when egg-laying began.
Sterile Winged Form. — The table speaks of two different appearances of
the pupa and winged form. Undoubtedly this means the fertile and sterile
kinds; the former alone has been produced during our experiments, although
170
it was through the latter that the winged form was first found in CaHfornia.
These were observed in 1879, by Dr: Hyde of Santa Rosa, and were identi-
fied by Professor Hilgard to be of the infertile variety. These are the only
individuals of the sterile variety found thus far, and they came from rather
large-sized woody roots, such as are usually found near the surface in
ordinary California summers. May we hot reasonal)ly conjecture that the
unusual summer rains of 1884, causing an unusual abundance of white
surface roots, have also been instrumental in developing exceptionally the
normal fertile winged form ?
Mode of Attack on Different Vines. — There is one point worthy of note as
throwing some light upon the resisting power of vines ; it is the manner of
the insects' attack. In the common vinifera even, they show preference
for particular spots on the roots, selecting those places where the bark is
softest, usually near a crack. From this they extend upward and down-
ward along the line where the tissue is continuous from that spot; and
scarcely ever do we find them working at right angles from this line.
When the sap begins to ooze out and rotting sets in, they precede it closely,
alM'ays leaving a number of insects to continue the destruction until the
spot becomes completely rotted and gives out no more sap. Large num-
bers of insects will often be found feeding upon such spots, apparently
reluctant to leave them as long as any sustenance can be derived there-
from. So carefully is this mode of working followed, that on many old
Mission vines they will be found only on a single spot, while the remainder
of the root is free from them. A root covered with a furzy bark is notice-
ably objectionable to them, a harder one with cracked or loosened bark is
preferred.
Upon a thoroughly resistant stock the insects act quite differently. They
are usually scattered about apparently at a loss to know just where to begin
operations. Their first piercings are made, and instead of a deep rotting
which completely kills the bark to the woody tissue, a slight, thin black-
ening of the bark takes place, which does not extend further, and, if made
on the finer rootlets, will often peel off, leaving the root perfectly smooth.
REPRESSION OF THE PHYLLOXERA.
The grave problem of the repression and, if possible, extirpation of the
phylloxera, evidently continues to form an attractive subject of reflection to
many persons. Unfortunately, the desire to discover an available remedy
is but rarely accompanied by such thorough knowledge of the habits of the
insect as would enable the inventor to foresee the difficulties which may
lie in the way of success; and thus the list of bootless propositions in the
premises is still suffering a steady increase. Seven or eight such propo-
sitions have, in the course of the past two years, been made to this depart-
ment, sometimes accompanied by a clear statement of the plan proposed,
at others simply desiring to have the proposed remedy applied and tested
in the University vineyard plot. Some of these remedies are still under
trial, having apparently produced a favorable change; but nothing thus far
brought forward has seemed to give any reasonable promise of success in
curing vines once infested, although heavy fertilizing may for the time in-
vigorate them. The most promising of all thus far — the mercurial treatment
proposed by Mr. J. A. Bauer, of San Francisco — is more elaborately con-
sidered below; but for the benefit of those who are still wrestling with the
177
problem, the substance of Bulletin No. 3, of the Agricultural Experiment
Station, issued in January, 1884, is he-re reproduced:
BULLETIN No. 3.
Remehies for the Phylloxera.
In answer to numerous inquiries received regarding the possible efficacy of various
insecticide remedies against the phylloxera, and particularly with reference to the one
lately suggested in France by M. Cramoisy, the following suihmary of the main points is
abstracted from !i bulletin published by this department in 1880:
" It is not difficult to find a great variety of substances that will kill the insect without
materially injuring the root of the vine. The difficulty lies in their economically i^racti-
cable application. Any such remedial agent, in order to be effective, must, in the case of
a bearing vineyard, reach not only the entire surface, but must penetrate the soil to a
depth not less than three, and frequently as much as eight feet in open soils. It is quite
useless to propose to 'bare the roots of the vine" for any insecticide application on the
large scale. In a bearing vineyard the roots and rootlets form one matted mass all
through the soil over the entire field, and it is at the remote ends that the insect
forms its largest and most flourishing colonies. To bare all these is practically impossi-
ble, and would in any case involve an amount of labor incompatible with the profitable
maintenance of the vineyard: especially if, in addition, the insecticide is to be carefully
applied to all, and soaked in with water, as is mostly suggested by the i^roposers of such
impracticable schemes.
"There are obviously only two practicable modes of giving the insecticide agent the
wide distribution called for. One is to apply it in solution in water; the other, to make
it penetrate the soil in a gaseous form.
" Water alone, if apt)lied continudusly for from thirty to forty days during winter, by
flooding, acconiplisbos tlu' (ibjcct to the extent to which it seems feasilile where the phyl-
loxera has once i>l)tained possessi<in; that is, to so far decrease its inimbers as to render
it harmless for one or two seasons. Where flooding is impracticable, and a quantity of
water sufficient to saturate so large a mass of soil has to be jiut on the ground by artificial
means, and at the same time charged with a more or less expensive insecticide, the cost
readily becomes such as to exceed the value of the vineyard. This is largely due to the
fact that the soil is a powerful absorbent of almost all substances soluble in water, thereby
rendering them inactive toward animal life for the time being. The same disinfecting
property of soil that enables it to purify the foulest water filtered through it, without
itself becoming offensive, also serves to render ineffectual a large proportion of any poison
that may be introduced in watery solution. It is only after the soil has become saturated
with it to a certain (very variable) extent, that a remaining portion can become effective.
Hence, the amount needed of any insecticide, when used in the soil, is very much greater
than that which would be required if water were to be ai)plied to the insect directly.
A solution of carbolic acid, or a tea of the 'Persian insect powder,' that would be instant
death to an insect sprinkled with it, becomes inodorous and harmless when filtered
through a few inches of soil; and the same is more or less true of all kinds of poisons. It
is, therefore, clear that only such as combine cheapness with a high degree of efficiency,
even in a very dilute form, can be thought of for any jiractical purposes.
"The same relations that exist between earth and substances dissolvetl in water apply
more or less to gases. Some of these that might otherwise be available are so strongly
absorbed by the soil as to render any effort to send them to the depth required, practically
useless. This is true, for instance, of the gas from burning sulphur, the use of which
against the phylloxera is continually re-invented by x>ersons unacquainted with the prac-
tical difficidties.
"Of all insecticide vapors that are }>romptly fatal to the insect, while comparatively
innocuous to the vine, and at the same time but very slightly absorbed by the soil, that of
carbon bisulphide stands foremost. Whether injected in substance or introduced in solu-
tion in the form of 'sulpho-carbonates,' it is, beyond comparison, the most thoroughly
effectual at the least expense. That it is difficult even through its agency to extirpate the
insect comi)letely in certain soils, only strengthens the argument against the possible efl&-
ciency of methods lacking similar advantages.
"That vineyards consisting of valuable varieties can be profitably maintained against
the phylloxera by the aid of carbon bisulphide has been sufficiently proven. But to
deliberately establish new vineyards of vines unprotected by grafting or resistant stock in
infested localities where flooding is not available, aiul with "the hope of holding the insect
in abeyance by insecticides, is from a financial point of view almost inexcusable. For at
least the same expense will then have to be incurred annually, which, once incurred by
grafting on resistant stock, would make the vineyard safe forever after."
12'
178
As a sequel to the above, the following discussion of the " mercurial rem-
edy" was published in Bulletin No. 18, in October, 1884:
Mr. J. A. Bauer's Phylloxera Remedy.
As a general answer to numerous inquiries concerning the probable efficacy of the phyl-
loxera remedy devised by Mr. J. A. Bauer, of San Francisco (viz.: the introduction "of
finely divided quicksilver into the earth around the stock), regarding which several arti-
cles have lately appeared in the public press, the following points, leased upon the known
and observed habits of the insect, are here given in advance of the experiments which it
is hoped will be extensively made during the coming season:
There can be no question as to the efficacy of metallic mercury finely diffused through
the soil in killing the phylloxera, or any other small insect remaining within its reach for
any length of time. A])art from the experience lung had in this respect in the means used
for the preservation of various articles, insect (■()llecti(jns, etc., from the attacks of small
insect depredators, the direct experiments of Mr. Bauer on earth and roots infested with
the phylloxera have been entirely conclusive a.s to the inaljility of the latter to live more
than a few hours in the atmosphere created in a close space, or in earth, at the ordinary
temperature, l)y finely divided mercury. The conclusion that a soil column of six or eighit
inches depth, impregnated with the mercurial vapor by intermixture with "blue mass,"
will effectually prevent the passage through it of the slow-going insect is, therefore, fully
justified. Many other substances might be used to act similarly in this respect, e. g., gas
lime; but none others thus far suggested possess the permanency of the mercurial prep-
aration, and the entire innocuousness toward even the most delicate rootlets, unless, per-
haps, in the case of the direct contact of the globules themselves. On this point, certainly,
Mr. Bauer's inspiration has been a most happy one, and while the introduction of mercury
into boreholes made in the stem of the vine has long been suggested and found to be use-
less, his suggestion is, so far as known, altogether new, and certainly original.
Were it feasible to impregnate the entire soil of a vineyard with the mercurial prepara-
tion, the phylloxera, being unable to ascend to the surface, would probably in a few genera-
tions be compelled to succumb, as the " winged fo^m " could not then perform its functions
toward the renewal of the tribal vigor by sexual reproduction. Since, however, so extended
a use of even this very dilute insecticide is hardly practicable on the large scale, it remains
to be determined to what extent its use immediately around the trunk of the vine, in the
manner proposed by Mr. Bauer, will be likely to serve the purposes of prevention and
repression.
The interjiosition of obstacles to the passage of the insect along the stock was among
the early suggestions of aspirants to the great prize offered by the French Government for
the discovery of an effectual remedy. We have among the inventions aiming in that
direction, even a proposition to encase the stock in a plaster jacket of several inches
thickness. It will be surmised that the sagacious insect was not long in discovering a
convenient path outside of the lump of plaster toward the coveted roots.
In the case of Mr. Bauer's plan, however, the descending or ascending insect innocently
crawls into a well laid trap, which gives no outward sign even liy an obnoxious odor.
According to the exjjerience had thiis far, it seems quite likely that the unwary travelers
would find themselveis ensnared before they had any intimation of danger; and as there
can be no doubt that the great bulk of the ingress and egress ordinarily takes place along
the trunk of the vines, after the egg laid by some wanderer on the leaves or branches has
hatched, it can hardly be doubted that a considerable repressive influence would be exerted
by Mr. Bauer's remedy, even where the phylloxera already exists, and that it would also
act as a fairly effectual preventive of infection for many uninfested vineyards.
Its universal efficacy is, however, limited by the fact that (as has been observed in Europe,
and quite lately and very prominently in this State), not only the winged form of the
insect, but even the yomig larval one, will ascend abundantly to the surface of the ground
from shallow outlying rootlets, and will fmm thence ]ir()gress slowly but surely over the
surface to neighboring vines. Direct proofs of this fact liave been had here within the
last few weeks, and will be published in connection with other new observations, in a sub-
sequent bulletin. It follows that when such shallow rootlets are abundant (as they are in
some soils), the obstacle or trap placed along the stock may affect the welfare and diffu-
sion of the insect only in a slight degree. It is still true that even in this case, great num-
bers of the wanderers will perish without reaching the safe harbor of a root, since most
of them will try the route along the stock and will there succumb to the mercurial trap.
Still, some will be likely to find their way down to the superficial rootlets, as the multitude
found its way up from them; and this will be the more surely the case, the more the soil
is liable to be summer-cracked, or the coarser its tilth. In close, sandy, and in well tilled
soils, on the contrary, the chances of stray insects descending by chance to such rootlets
would be exceedingly slight, in case the stocks were all protected by the mercurialized earth.
How great is the ditlirulty interposed to the progress of the insect on a sandy surface, can
only be appreciated by those who have watched the ludicrous antics it exhibits under such
circumstances. The incessant tumblings and backslidings soon exhaust its energies, and
show good reason why, notoriouslv, the phylloxera is comparatively harmless in very
sandy, and correlatively in very well tilled soils.
From the foregoing considerations, those interested may readily infer how far in their
particular cases the ingenious device invented by Mr. Bauer is likely to prove efficacious;
179
and while still it will undoubtedly be far better to plant resistant stock and graft, those
favorably situated, or those who have already planted the non-resistant vine, will do well
to take the proposed remedy under careful consideration.
Berkeley, October 1, 1884.
The sequel of the matter is given summarily in Bulletin No. 48, about a
year later:
, BULLETIN No. 48.
Investigations upon the Mercurial Phylloxera Remedy.
About a year ago much interest was excited by the publication of a statement that finely
divided ("deadened") quicksilver mingled with the soil around a vine would effectually
prevent the access of the phjdloxera to the roots, and would thus prove a certain pre-
ventive of infection, if not a cure for vines already infested
In response to numerous inquiries addressed to me on the subject at the time, I stated
(see Bulletin No. 18, October 1, 1884,) that past experience, as well as direct experiments,
had shown the inability of the phylloxera to live more than a few hours in the atmosphere
created by finely divided mercury in a closed space, or in earth, at the ordinary tempera-
ture ; and that " the conclusion that a soil column of six or eight inches depth, impregnated
with mercurial vapor by intermixture with 'blue mass,' will effectually prevent the pas-
sage through it of the slow-going insect, is therefore fully justified."
It appears that soon after the publication of the above facts and conclusions, there arose
a considerable demand for the preparation of finely divided mercury, from persons who
desired to thus protect their vines. Mr. Bauer, the inventor, not having intended to engage
in the lausiness, was unprepared to supply the material; but upon being pressed, finally
agreed to prepare some of the clay and mercury inixture on a larger scale. It was thus
supplied to a number of persrms in the infested districts of Sonoma and Napa; a number
of experiments were inaugurated under the auspices of the Viticultural ('(immission, and
some twelve vines in the experimental plot of the University were also treated under Mr.
Bauer's directions. These were, to incorporate a package of the mixture, containing about
half an ounce of mercury, with about a peck of soil taken up from around the vine, baring
its upper roots, then replacing the mercurialized earth.
The failure of at least a large proportion of the applications thus made to produce the
^xjiected effect within the time it was looked 'for, is a matter of public notoriety, it having
been diligently heralded both at home and abroad, in advance of any reasonable examina-
tion into the facts and the causes of the discrepant results.
The subject was immediately taken in hand by me upon the opening of the University
session, and the investigation is now so far advanced that both the causes of failure, and
the means to be used in making the remedy effective on the large, as it was on the small
scale, can be definitely stated. A detailed account of the experiments will be given in the
annual report of the department.
As to the first point alluded to above, it should be kept in mind that my prediction of
the efficacy of the application was ba.sed upon the condition that (as quoted above) the
soil must be impregnated with mercurial vapor; that vapor, and not the liquid mercury, being
the effective agent. If from any cause that vapor failed to form, the quicksilver would
remain inactive.
On testing in this respect the mixture furnished us by Mr. Bauer, which consisted of
equal weights of mercury and clay or chalk, it was found that only the merest trace of
mercurial vapor could be detected in or around it by the most delicate tests; while the
same tests showed an abundance of vapor in the mixture i^rejiared in the same propor-
tions by ourselves. A corre.s])()ii(ling difference manifested itself in the effects on phyllox-
erated roots, on which the insects were rapidly killed when immersed in our mixture,
while in Mr. Bauer's they only showed signs of discomfort and moved off.
This puzzling difference was finally traced to two circumstances which tend to diminish
materially the evaporation of the mercury. One is that the metal used was rather strongly
contaminated with lead, which is known to retard evaporation in a remarkable degree.
The second is that in the preparation of the mixture some oil was used, in order to facili-
tate the subdivision of the quicksilver, as is frequently done in working on a large scale.
Thus each (jlohule was coated with a film of oil, which farther interfered with evaporation —
an effect which, though easily intelligible on physical principles, it was not easy to foresee.
And it is quite evident that if even the pure mixture acted but feebly on the insects, its
intermixture with many times its bulk of soil would be still more inert.
It was found, however, that in a number of cases in which neither oil nor the impure
mercury had been used, the residts had also been unsatisfactory, while in others the effect
of the same mixture had been prompt, as in the small scale experiments. Evidently there
must have been some other factor concerned in the failures.
I had, from the outset, conjectured that the absorption of the mercurial vapor by the
soil itself (analogous to its well known disinfecting action in other cases) might be an
impediment to the action of the mercury that would vary in different soils. In the case
of vapor of water, the amounts taken up by various soils vary from less than one to over
twenty per cent of the weight of the soils. If, then, similar differences exist in the case of
mercurial vapor, some soils — sandy ones — might allow the vapor to act within a very short
time, being quickly saturated ; while in the case of loam and clay soils, with high absorp-
180
tive powers, the slow process of evaporation and saturation might occupy a long time,
during which no free vapor would be available for action upon the insects.
The subject being one that has never been investigated, it was necessary to feel the way
with numerous tentative determinations and experiments, of which at present some sixty
are on record and many more under wa}^ The results, however, have fully verified the
correctness of the above' conjecture, and have also shown the way to make the mercurial
application practically effective for the protection of uni.nfested vines.
Thus, when the finely divided quicksilver is mixed with pure sand in the proportion of
about two per cent, the effect on the insects becomes obvious within less than twenty-four
hours after immersion; and after six hours more all are dead, or so badly pftisoned that
they will die even when withdrawn from the sand. But when, instead of the sand, a
clayey soil is used, having a power of absorption aljout twelve times greater than the sand,
no decided effect is perceived, even after several days.
When that same soil, however, after its mixture with the mercury, has been subjected
, for a few hours to the temperature of boiling water, it acts upon the phylloxera as quickly
as the sand mixture, and that not only in the laboratory, but also in the vineyard, as
repeated tests have shown. It was also noted that in the latter case the effect did not
extend into the natural soil beyond, even to the extent of an inch, in the course of a week ;
but insects crawling within reach woiild, of course, perish.
These facts having been demonstrated by numerous repetitions of the experiments
under varied circumstances, it now remains to a])ply them to a large-scale practice in the
vineyard. This part of the subject is still under investigation, so far as the means of
readily impregnating large quantities of clayey soil are concerned ; but it is even now obvi-
ous that Mr. Bauer's original proposition (viz., to protect young vineyards from invasion) is
perfectly feasible and conducive to its end, provided sand is used around the stock or cut-
ting instead of soil, when the latter is at all of a clayey nature. In sandy soils more or less
time will elapse before the vapor becomes effective ; but it will, nevertheless, be likely to
afford protection the same season, even without other preparation than intimate inter-
mixture. But in the case of even moderately clayey soils, a previous preparation, to insure
saturation with the metallic vapor, appears to be necessary in order to insure immunity from
attack during the season in which a cutting has been planted. Even in the prevalently
clayey soils, in which the applications in Naj)a and Sonoma have mostly been made dur-
ing' the past season, the protective effect will doubtless be felt to a greater or less extent
as the oil film decays away and the earth becomes gradually saturated.
But, while there is every reason to believe that an application once made will remain
effective during the life of the vine, so far as the ingress of the insect Ivonx above is con-
cerned, it is also clear that the spreading of the mercury will probably be too slow to
afford immunity to outlying roots that may be infected from below. In other words, the
mercurial remedy will probably not, as has been supposed, avail for the protection of cut-
tings planted on infested ground, nor for the cure of old infested stocks ; unless, perhaps,
in very sandy soils.
In regard to the practical method for preparing saturated earth in the vineyard, the
experiments now in progress seem to show that it can be done by exposing the dry, fine
soil, after intermixture with the quicksilver, to hot sunshine such as will maintain its
temperature at 110 degrees for from 20 to 30 hours in the aggregate (say three to five mid-
summer days); the above temperature being the one found to be usually assumed by rai-
sins in sun-drying, and hence has been adopted as the standard in our best driers. There
are but few parts of California where these conditions can not be amply fulfilled during
some part of the year, and the soil so prepared could then be used at any time when
wanted.
It is probable that almost any soil might be saturated so as to be available for use in the
spring planting, if after mixing in the mercury thoroughly at the beginning of summer,
it were left in low piles, ])rotccte(l from the moisture of the t^Tound and air, but accessilile
to the summer temperature. It should he fully understood that the presence of moisture
interferes materially with the absorption of the vapor by the soil, and therefore with its
saturation; although when once saturated, its action on the jjhylloxera is scarcely inter-
fered with by moderate wetness.
It would, of course, be perfectly practicable, in regions where extended planting opera-
tions are progressing, to prepare the mercurialized earth more quickly by subjecting the
mixture to steam heat while it is agitated by mechanical means; for instance, by a revolv-
ing, spirally-acting agitator within a steam-jacketed, sheet iron cylinder, which with the
needful small boiler could be mounted on a wagon truck so as to move about as required.
With this, or similar appliances that can readily be devised, attention to the avoidance of
mercurial poisoning would, of course, be very essential.
As to the amount of mercurial vapor actually absorbed and rendered inert by ordinary
loam and clay soils, the assaj's of soils subjected to the action of vapor only show that it
amounts to from 121 to 129 grains per cubic foot; a relatively large quantity, which, con-
sidered together with the extremely slow evaporation of the metal at the ordinary tem-
peratures, amply accounts for the observed failures of the remedy as applied here'tofore.
It is, jiresumably, only the excess over that amount that can produce effective vapor. But
as the fourth part of "a culiic foot, say ti <()Xl2 inches, or better, 7x7x9 inches, would per-
haps Constitute an adequate apiilieation to one cutting, the 30 or 40 grains of metal thus
rendered inert bear but a small proportion to the permanent value of the protected vine.
On the whole, the half-ounce doses of mercury thus far used by Dr. Bauer, when well
naixed in, is probably ample.
181
Experiments on these points, as well as on the effect of vapor-saturated soil on the
tender rootlets of seedlings, are still in progress, and will be reported in due time.
In view of a late discussion concerning the propriety of exterminating the phylloxera
■on the University vineyard plot, as demanded by the State Viticultural Commission, it is
not irrelevant to state that the determination of the above questions would have been
altogether impracticable until next season, had not the infested plot afforded the needful
material for the numerous experiments, and opportunity for daily and hourly observa-
tion.
Berkeley, November 12, 188,5.
The details of this investigation, and some farther results as well as
experiments now under way, are given in the subjoined report by Mr. F.
W. Morse, of the work done by him in this connection, under my direc-
tion, together with the conclusions which, in my opinion, are legitimately
deducible therefrom:
2. REPORT OF EXPERIMENTS UPON MERCURY VAPOR /\S A
REMEDY AGAINST THE PHYLLOXERA.
For many years there has been a diligent search for some means of com-
batting the phylloxera by applying an insecticide around the roots of the
\dne in such a manner as to eventually permeate the whole soil to the full
■depth at which the insect can live on the roots, varying according to the
perviousness of the soil from three to as much as seven feet. Such an
insecticide must be either very powerful, so as to act at once on all forms
of the insect wherever lodged, or it must be permanent and act slowly and
continuously. It will readily be seen that to fulfill all the requirements,
the remedy, if applied in solution, must be extremely cheap, and the means
of appl}dng very simple. The use even of water alone to reach all the lowest
rootlets becomes almost impracticable in most cases, and when used as a car-
rier of an expensive remedy, requiring more than one treatment, would
prove too costly to be generally practicable. It is, above all, desirable
that the remedy shall be permanently and continuously effective, so that
one treatment shall suffice once for all. Large numbers of remedies have
been proposed and applied, and have, for a time, produced apparently
excellent results, but have not prevented subsequent invasions of the few
insects which escaped the first treatment by being far out on the lowest
rootlets of the vine. The various applications in the truly liquid form have
not been successful, because not widely distributed to all the far-reaching
roots. The use of a solution bearing a substance capable of generating a
gas or vapor in the soil, some time after the application is made, such as
the sulpho-carbonates, etc., approaches nearer the desired results, but those
thus far suggested carry with them the objection of the want of perma-
nency, and the same is true of the bisulphide of carbon itself. Hence the
need of several successive treatments, or annual to triennial ones, during
the life of the vineyard.
It is the predicable permanency of mercury vapor which has led many
to look to it as a possible remedy. The action and value of this agent is
based upon two facts, namely: that metallic mercury, at the ordinary tem-
perature, is continually giving off a vapor which acts as a deadly poison to all
insect life ; and that the volatilization of the mercury is so slow in its natural
metallic state that it becomes practically permanent, and that its effect
would presumably last during the life of a vineyard. Upon these pre-
sumptions a method has been devised by Mr. Bauer, whereby the mercury
may be so finely diffused through the soil as to hasten greatly its vaporiza-
tion, in order to give immediate relief to the infested vines. It was sup-
posed that all vines, when properly treated according to this plan, would
182
soon be rid of the majority of the insects on the main roots, and that the
remaining ones would succumb as the vapor extended to the outer rootlets.
In the meantime, the vine, relieved of the drain of the insects, would begin
to revive.
The application of the same remedy as a preventive against the infection
of new vineyards, by planting the young vine in soil impregnated with the
mercurial mixture, followed naturally enough. Such soil applied around
the cutting would prevent the descent of the insect by way of the trunk
during the early growth of the vine, and the subsequent gradual spread of
the vapor would prevent infection through surface roots which would be
produced later.
MR. Bauer's mercurial mixture and its application.
The Bauer mercurial mixture is prepared by triturating equal parts of
metallic mercury of commerce with powdered chalk or clay until it is so
thoroughly divided that it can be readily transported and mixed with the soil
of the vineyard without danger of the reuniting of the particles of mercury.
A small amount of oil was sometimes added to facilitate the division of the
mercury. The following directions were given for the application of the
mixture :
For New Vhies. — Dig a hole a foot in diameter and fifteen to eighteen inches deep; throw
the soil from the hole into an open wooden box; distribute an ounce of the mixture well
througli it with a shovel, and plant the vine in this ]irei)ared soil, i)acked down as usual.
For Old Vines. — Dig out the soil carefully six inches aroi;nd the main stem of the old
vine, on which the side roots are still healthy and living, to a depth of eighteen inches;
prepare the soil thus taken out by distributing tlirough it an ounce and a half of the mix-
ture, and replace, pressing down well.
MR. Bauer's experiments.
Mr. J. A. Bauer, the originator of this remedy, has earnestly and dili-
gently experimented with it for many years, using the mercury in various
forms, and in various degrees of strength, until the minimum amount was
reached; and he tested alike its poisonous effect. upon insects, and its pos-
sible injury to tender plants. He has thus become convinced that it pro-
duces no injurious effect upon the plant's growth, which came under his
observation in pot specimens used for experiment. He is further convinced
of its harmlessness, from his experience in a vineyard of his own, where
many thousand cuttings were planted in the mixture, under his direction.
All have produced most flattering results.
His experiments upon the phylloxera were conducted mostly in San
Francisco. The phylloxera specimens were obtained from infested country
vineyards, and placed in a light sandy soil, such as prevails in that city.
His line of experiments has been to ascertain the minimum amount of
quicksilver to be used to be effective ; also, to determine the time required
to kill the insect. How far the experiments have been carried since, we
are not aware; but they were reported as having been highly successful
and satisfactory. It will be seen, later on, that he was very fortunate in
the selection of material with which he worked, and that, had conditions-
been otherwise, less flattering results would have been obtained.
other, experiments.
The report from the State Viticultural Commission on experiments, under
their direction, to test the efficacy of the remedy, has already become a
183
matter of public note. Their line of tests, continued since March, 1885,
embraces many experiments relating to the manner of application to its
use as a preventive in the case of young vines planted over old infected
stocks, and also to its ethcacy as a preventive against invasion of young
vineyards "or cuttings planted also over infested roots. No decided or
favorable effect was reported in any case, whether on old infested ^dnes or
on young vines planted in the holes from which the former had been taken,
or in uninfested ground planted with healthy vines that were thereafter
purposely infected.
Several vineyardists have also experimented with it, but in no case was
positive relief reported. Their tests, also, were usually made upon vine-
yards or plots where old vines had been destroyed and new ones replanted,
or upon old infested stocks. The results all pointed to the conclusion that
the remedy is too slow to be effectual in the case of old infested stocks, or
new vines which have replaced those killed by the pest.
UNIVERSITY FIELD EXPERIMENTS.
On November 21, 1884, ten vines of- the University vineyard plot were
treated with the mixture furnished by Mr. Bauer, and applied under his
directions, using his prescribed dose of one half an ounce of metallic
mercury (or one ounce of the mixture) to each vine. The preparation was
carefully mixed with a peck or more of loose earth, and then placed upon
and surrounding the roots to such a depth as the mixture could be prac-
tically applied, after reaching to ten inches depth, and sometimes extend-
ing out one foot from the vine. They were allowed to remain until March
of the following year before an examination was made. Different repre-
sentatives of the lot were examined in March, April, May, June, and Sep-
tember, with quite unsatisfactory results.
It should be remembered that these vines are very old, and have been
infested so long that all the older roots are badly corroded, and even
rotten, so that it would be difficult to find the phylloxera upon them in
the early spring, even though no remedy had been applied. The time,
and the year, was most favorable for an abundant production of the insects;
and, as the records show, for the most complete growth of small rootlets,
which were then nearly matured and badly infested. During the winter
season, 1884-5, the insects were naturally diminished in numbers, and, at
the time of first inspection in the spring, scarcely any were found upon the
old roots, while upon the healthier and smaller roots no appreciable change
was noticeable.
Upon four of the vines that were examined, no phylloxera was found
during the sunmier; these vines also had no small roots. Upon all the
others the insects were found at different times in numbers varying directly
with the condition of the roots ; small roots bearing them almost invariably.
Some vines were reported at diffeTent times as being not infested ; the rea-
son for this being that it was considered advisable not to molest them to
such an extent as to injure them, but to leave them for future examination
of parts which could not then be conveniently reached. One vine treated
in November, for example, bore the usual forms in March, received an
additional treatment in April, at which time no change from the normal
condition was noticeable; in June and on September twelfth, no insects
were found, and the roots were reported as poor. A more complete exam-
ination on September twenty-second, showed the majority of old roots to
be free from insects, except those lying near to fresh or fibrous roots, where
the pest was abundant. •
184
Another "vine, which received an ounce treatment of mercury on April
twenty-first, was found to be free from the insect on May eleventh.
A fibrous root, apparently in a fresh condition, although covered with
nodosities, was not infested. Numerous small globules of mercury were
found lying upon the larger horizontal roots. The old roots still remained
free in September; but phylloxera was seen in abundance upon some white
'' tuberous" rootlets which were growing luxuriantly about eight inches
from the main stock, and still within the limit of the mercurialized earth.
A third vine, which received the early treatment, was the only one upon
which both phylloxera and eggs were noticed. These were found in March
upon small rootlets four inches below the surface of the ground, near the
central part of the impregnated earth.
As a counter-check upon the examinations of the treated vines, others
which had received no treatment were examined from time to time. They
gave similar results, some bearing no phylloxera, some with better adapted
roots bearing a few; with the growth of new tuberous rootlets they were
found in abundance. All witnessed alike the comparative freedom of the
old roots from the pest.
Very little could therefore be said in favor of the effects of these two first
treatments. They had furnished no positive evidence of good results, the
insect continuing to live even though surrounded by the mixture, whenever
the roots were favorable to their existence.
The almost absolute freedom of the old roots from the pest suggests a
possible effect upon them by these applications, but the supposition is not
borne out by the experience of observers elsewhere.
It is due to the originator of the remedy to state here that the strength
of the mixture used in the early treatment was not up to the supposed
standard. The causes for its failure of eftect will be explained later.
EXPERIMENTS IN THE LABOEATORY.
From the field experiments, noted above, it appears that the remedy, as
first applied, gave but little encouragement for its future success. This
want of decisive favorable results may be accounted for, in general, by one
of two causes:
First — An improper preparation of the mixture.
Second — An absorption and retention of the vapor by the soil.
The object of the following experiments was to show how far each of
these objections may have influenced the efficacy of the remedy, and to
point out, if possible, some means for overcoming the difficulties.
Methods and Reagents Used. — Before discussing the separate experiments
relating to the preparation, absorption, and diffusion of the mercury vapor,
it will be necessary to speak of methods used for the different tests for the
vapor, and also of the manner of treating of the roots under observation.
During the first part of the experimental work an attempt was made to use
gold foil as an indicator of the presence of mercurial vapor ; the formation
of the gray amalgam being very characteristic. This test, however, proved
far too slow in its action, and was put aside to be used only where com-
parative results and long standing would be required. In its place, iodine;
vapor, previously suggested and used in his investigations by Brame, was
adopted as on the whole the best indicator, although for some purposes it
is open to the opposite criticism, since the slightest trace of mercury vapor
is indicated immediately by the distinct and characteristic deposit of yel-
185
low or red iodide of mercury. Finely powdered iodine is placed in the
apparatus so that its vapor, which forms immediately at ordinary tempera-
tures, comes in contact with the mercury vapor drawn hy a current of air
from the material to be tested.
A somewhat slower indicator was found in the solution of ammoniated
nitrate of silver, but this was not used to any extent.
In some of the experiments on the absorption of mercury vapor by soil,
the point of super-saturation was shown by a deposit of metallic mercury
collecting upon a properly arranged condenser above the soil, leaving no
doubts of the completeness of the operation.
Whenever it was practicable the chemical tests were supplemented by
counter-tests upon the insects themselves. A portion of the soil or mixture
under examination was put in a glass vessel and a piece of infested root
inserted in such a manner that the insects, without being touched by the
soil, could be seen through the glass, and frequent observations were taken.
When a more accurate examination was had the root specimen was care-
fully taken out and the microscope brought into requisition. In order to
protect the specimen as much as possible from the soil, a piece of porous
cloth (cheese cloth) was placed over it on the earth side, giving ample
opportunity for the vapor to pass freely about the root and its inhabitants.
^^ Standard Mixture." — Most of our experiments were made with a mix-
ture prepared by ourselves* from mercury purified with ferric chloride,
which at the same time reduces it to a state of fine division. The gray
mass, while still wet, was poured upon the soil and allowed to dry until it
could be rubbed up with a soft pestle without recombining the globules of
mercury. Although this plan was not a perfect success, owing to the ten-
dency of the mercury to reunite, it has answered the purpose.
Mr. Baiier^s Mercurial Mixtiires. — We have received from Mr. Bauer
three different samples of his mercurial mixtures. The first, which, in
part, was applied to the vines in the University vineyard plot, was dark
colored, and was supposed to contain one ounce of mercury to each package
of two ounces of the mixture. It forms a very plastic mass when wetted,
clay ha^dng evidently been used in its preparation. From chalk mixture
the mercury can readily be rubbed out, when slightly wet, and reunited ;
but with this mixture it was almost impossible to do so. It also contained a
considerable amount of oil, which, in its examination, was extracted with
caustic soda. After washing out, and again drying, mercury globules were
obtained, although in small quantities, and still quite finely divided.
They were bright, and apparently free from lead.
The second mixture, consisting of equal parts of chalk and mercury, and
a little oil, yields the mercury readily Avhen rubbed while wet. A very
large percentage of lead, used for the same purpose as oil, namely, to facili-
tate the dividing of the mercury, forms a crystalline mass, surrounded by
the liquid mercury, which was only in small amount.
The third sample, of chalk-and-mercury mixture, supposed to be free
from lead and oil, still contains sufficient lead to form a film completely
enveloping the mercury globules, and of sufficient thickness to produce a
visible effect on their surface as they move about. It is stated to be "com-
mercial quicksilver."
As the efficacy of the remedy is entirely dependent upon the rapidity of
the formation of vapor, it will readily be seen that any cause which tends
to prevent this rapid action will be adverse to the efficacy of the mixture.
*This mixture is hereinafter designated simply as standard mixture.
186
And it follows, with equal certainty, that if, instead of the clear surface of
pure mercury, one covered with a jacket or film of any kind is presented,
just in proportion to the thickness and nature of the film will the rapidity
of vaporization be hindered. There can be no doubt that the benefit of
using oil and lead, in dividing the mercury, is due to the film formed about
the globules, which, however, defeats the primary object aimed at in the
division.
It is, however, a well ascertained fact that any considerable amount of
lead in quicksilver materially diminishes its evaporation in any case.
In the first mixture, mentioned above, a very large amount of oil was
used, and probably no lead, as the mercury obtained seems quite pure, at
least there is not sufficient lead to form a film. Any lack of action, such
as was indicated in the field, would, probably, be due to the presence of the
oil. The second mixture contained only a small amount of oil, but a large
amount of lead, and is also slow in action, as indicated by the experiments
on the insects. The comparative tests of this sample with the standard
mixture, both with the same amount of mercury, and applied under sim-
ilar conditions, show the Bauer mixture to be very much slower, hence
points to a defect in the rapidity of vaporization.
In the third mixture, containing no oil, the effect was more decided than
in the preceding ones, and yet the experiments with the latter indicate less
deadly action than in comparative experiments with the standard mixture.
This difference, also, is probably to be accounted for by the fact that the
mercury used in our standard mixture was chemically pure, while that
even of mixture No. 3 of Mr. Bauer did, as stated before, contain lead
enough to form a very perceptible film on the surface of the globules. This
contamination, perhaps unavoidable in commercial quicksilver, is at all
events, preferable to the oil which, as will be seen, causes the insects to
move away instead of being killed where they are.
It is manifest that neither oil, nor lead, nor any other material which,
although favoring division, coats the globules and retards vaporization,,
should be used in the preparation of these mixtures. So far as is known,,
those which have been used elsewhere for field work were all prepared in
the above manner; and thus, no better results could be looked for.
Soils used in the Experiments. — The soils used in the experiments were
on the one hand the stony yellow adobe of the University vineyard plot,
in which the use of Mr. Bauer's mixture had entirely failed of success
during the past season, on the other, washed sand from the sea beach was
used as the extreme representative of sandy soils; subsequently, a dark-
colored semi-adobe from General Bidwell's ranch, near Chico, was also
brought in as the representative of the highly absorptive humus soils.
The composition of the above soils is as follows:
187
No. 4.
'Adobe" Ridge
Subsoil.
No. 8.
Dark Loam Soil.
Mechanical Analysis.
Weight of gravel over 1.2 mm. diameter
Weight of gravel between 1.2 and 1 mm
Weight of gravel between 1 and 0.6 mm
Fine earth
Mechanical Analysis of Fine Earth
Clay-...
Sediment of <10.25 mm hydraulic value
Sediment of 0.25 mm
Sediment of 0.5 mm
Sediment of 1.0 mm
Sediment of 2.0 mm
Sediment of 4.0 mm
Sediment of 8.0 mm
Sediment of 16.0 mm
Sediment of 32.0 mm
Sediment of (54.0 mm
13.23
4.61
82.16
18.92
17.25
4.87
6.79
6.42
6.64
3.69
7.45
11.03
9.49
3.42
.40
1.61
97.99
20.8
32.0
3.3
6.6
5.6
7.8
7.5
5.7
4.8
1.5
1.2
95.97
96.4
No. 561.
Black Loam Soil,
Bidwell's.
Insoluble matter
Soluble silica .
Potash
Soda
Lime
Magnesia
Br. oxide of manganese
Peroxide of iron
Alumina
Phosphoric acid
Sulphuric acid
Carbonic acid
Water and organic matter _
Totals .
86.002
.189
.154
.484
4.52
.038
4.013
5.532
.057
.021
59.144
3.160
62.304
.305
.221
2.909
1.042
.025
9.342
13.038
.095
.068
4.051
10.149
100.993
99.498
Humus
Available inorganic . . .
Hygroscop. moisture
Absorbed at.
Trace.
6.13
3.00
.59
13.980
.13° C.
Soil No. 8, from near Stockton, of which the mechanical analysis is given
above, is altogether similar in character to the Bidwell soil, which has not
as yet been mechanically analyzed. It will be seen that as regards the
finer ingredients, which are chiefly concerned in the absorptive power, the
difference between the two soils used in our experiments lies mainly in the
finest sediments, while clay is nearly alike in both. It will be noted that
they differ widely in their chemical composition, while presumably not far
apart in their mechanical nature. The great difference in their absorptive
power for water, which is of especial interest in this connection, arises evi-
dently very largely from the considerable proportion of humus present in
the Bidwell soil, while the other contains probably less than one half per
cent. The sand used in these experiments was taken from the sea beach,
and carefully washed. It showed, in comparison with the soils, a moisture
absorption of only .53 per cent.
188
Exj)eriments Regarding the Continued Life of the Phylloxera on Detached
Root Fragments. — In order to be assured that the roots used in the experi-
ments would continue to support the hfe of the phylloxera in natural soil,
a root fragment about four inches long, taken from the lot that served for
the other tests, was placed in a vessel with air-dried soil and watched like
those being treated with mercurialized earth. This specimen has been fre-
quently examined, since October fifteenth, when it was prepared, and has
not only proven that the insect will live, but has also furnished an oppor-
tunity for watching it during its hibernating season. It will be of great
interest to watch the anticipated revival in the spring. The insects seem
to have remained in exactly the same position as they were when put away,
but are plump, and have the usual color of hibernants. The soil was noted
as quite dry one week after the experiment began, but it was not moistened
until December tenth, and then only slight. Small grass roots and shoots
soon penetrated the whole soil, but have since dried up.
The fact that many times other specimens had been kept in bottles about
the laboratory, without any precautions being taken to preserve them, would
be quite evidence enough to prove that the death of the insects in our
experiments was due to the direct efiect of the poisonous vapor.
Action of Mercury Vapor upon the Phylloxera. — Comparing the result of
the preceding experiment with those in which mercurialized earth was
used, we can readily note the poisonous effect of the vapor. A badly
infested root was suspended half an inch above a layer of mercury, in a
glass-stoppered cylinder, about fourteen inches high. A slight effect on the
lowest portion was noticed on the third day, and upon the fourth, some of
the old insects were blackened and dead, the eggs were drying up, and the
general effect had reached to the height of three or four inches. On the
following day blackened and dead insects were found to the height of six
or eight inches; the eggs were darkened. and shriveled. Upon the seventh
day none were healthy looking, and on the ninth no live insects could be
found. The root, which was still quite fresh, was transferred to an open
tube to determine whether any would survive, but none ever appeared.
It will be seen that it took from four to seven days to produce a decided
effect upon the insects when placed close to the mercury before vapor had
had time to form to any extent. Some five months later, a badly infested
root was placed in the same cylinder, two inches above the mercury. In
sixteen hours the effect was very apparent; some old insects were browned
and apparently dead; about one third of the larvfe moved briskly about
when warmed. At the end of twenty-four hours many were moving about,
and showing signs of distress. At the end of thirty-nine hours none were
alive ; large numbers that had died had fallen to the mercury below, while
others still remained fastened to the root. Some still retained a light color,
showing they had only just died.
The rapid effect in the second experiment was manifestly due to the fact
that the vessel was then already filled with the mercury vapor, while before
it had still to be formed, and only very gradually rose in the cylinder.
Experiments showing Formation of Vapor with Different Mixtures. — In one
experiment (No. 5), a body of dry soil mixed with an excess of Bauer's
mixture, was placed in a vessel and gold-foil was inserted upon the inside
of the glass. At the end of seven weeks the edges were amalgamated, but
the central part remained unaffected as seen from the outside.
No. 6. A portion of Bauer's mixture alone was put between two watch
189
glasses and foil inserted as in above experiment. The result was about the
same in both cases and showed a reaction more from actual contact of the
globules of mercury themselves than from the formation of vapor.
No. 7. In order to avoid the actual contact of the foil and mercury glob-
ules, a glass tube containing the foil was inserted into the soil mixture of
the first experiment, and allowed to remain from May, 1885, until Febru-
ary, 1886, but it showed no signs of amalgamation.
No. 9. An attempt was made to show the relative rapidity of vapor for-
mation from metallic mercury on the one hand, and from Bauer's mixture
on the other. The substances were placed upon three-inch watch-glasses,
conveniently well filled, and suspended in upright, well covered glass fun-
nels, leaving ample roo'n for the passage of the heavy vapor between the
watch-glasses and the sides of the funnels to a glass vessel placed beneath.
Close to the opening of the funnel beak, and on the bottom of the receiver,
was placed the foil to serve as an indicator. No visible effect had been
produced at the end of five months. Possibly a weighing of the foil might
have shown an increase in weight due to amalgamation, which could not
be detected by its appearance. At this time a little iodine was placed near
the beak of the funnel, where it gave a faint tinge of mercuric iodide; but
as the iodine vapor passed up between the glass and the funnel a distinct
red ring was formed upon the latter, near the edge of the watch-glasses,
showing the formation of mercury vapor there. No noticeable difference in
the results could be deduced from these experiments.
Experiments 41, 42, and 43 were to show the comparative rapidity of
action of metallic mercury, standard mixture, and Bauer's mixture No. 1.
The materials were placed in covered glass dishes, with iodine placed upon
watch-glasses resting upon the mixtures. In two days the iodine had vapor-
ized, leaving an iodized atmosphere within. A heavy deposit of red iodide
soon covered the surface of the metallic mercury. Upon the standard mix-
ture the whole surface was more or less covered with the iodide, and a very
bright color lined the higher, rough points of the mixture. The Bauer
mixture showed no red color; only a darkening had taken place in the low-
est parts of the surface. As was to be expected, the action was most decided
on the free mercury; of the two, the standard mixture was much more
active than Bauer's. -In the latter, the action of the iodine ceased to
increase visibly only after long standing. The inference would be that the
globules were surrounded by some material (presumably oil) which pre-
vented the access of the iodine to the mercury, and also the formation of
vapor.
Alongside of the three preceding experiments may be put Nos. 11, 12, 13,
14, and 68, which were intended to determine the relative rapidity of vapor-
formation and rise of vapor in cylinders. The materials used were metal-
lic mercury, standard mixture, Bauer's mixtures (with and without oil),
and soot containing free mercury. A small quantity of each was put in
tall, narrow cylinders, and glass tubes having gold-foil adhering to the out-
side were suspended just above the substances. They were prepared on
September twenty-fifth, except No. 68 — Bauer's mixture, consisting of equal
parts of chalk and mercury without oil. In fifty-one days the foil in the
mercury cylinder was heavily amalgamated from one to two inches above
the mercury. The cylinder containing the standard mixture had formed
an amalgam to about the same height. Neither the Bauer mixture nor the
soot had given any indication of amalgamation up to February first; but
by the twenty-fourth a distinct change was noticeable in the foil in the
soot cylinder, and a doubtful trace in the Bauer mixture cylinder. The
190
slowness of the latter may be due to tarry matter which may prevent vapor-
ization in a similar manner to that of the oil of the Bauer mixture.
Into another cylinder, containing metallic mercury, and which had
served for the experiments of Nos. 2, 3, and 4, was suspended a glass tube
a foot long, arranged similar to the preceding experiments. Five months
later it was found that the foil was completely amalgamated to the height
of six inches, and that the effect had reached, in a less degree, to the
height of nine inches, to the limit of the foil.
These experiments, with the preceding ones, exhibit very characteristic-
ally the manner in which mercurial vapor forms and diffuses in air. In
the experiments with long roots covered with phylloxera and suspended in
a tall cylinder with mercury at the bottom, the first effects on the insects
nearest the surface of the mercury freshly put in, were observed at the end
of three days, and after nine days all insects were dead, the effect progress-
ing visibly from below upward. In a subsequent experiment, in the same
cylinder, after the mercury had remained in it for several months, the
effect on the insects nearest the metal (two inches above its surface)
became obvious in sixteen hours, and after the lapse of thirty-nine hours
all were dead. In this case the air of the entire cylinder contained more
or less vapor, but it was evidently much more dense, and therefore pro-
duced the quickest effect, near the bottom. Precisely the same results
were reached in the above experiments with gold foil, only the foil, being
much less sensitive than the insects, required much more time to show the
efifect. All these observations corroborate the soundness of the rule noted
by the workmen in mirror factories, viz.: that those whose work obliges
them to stoop or otherwise be near the floor, are most quickly and severely
affected by salivation.
Experiments on the Effects of Immersion of Infested Boots in the Mixtures
Alone, or with Sand or Soil, at the Ordinary Temperatures. — The experiments
recorded below give the results obtained by treating phylloxerated roots in
mercury mixtures, both alone and with varying quantities of soil:
191
Substance Used.
Numb'r
of
Hours.
Condition of Insects.
1. Bauer's mixture, No. 1 -
<31. Bauer's mixture, No. 3,
prepared without oil..
51. Bauer's mixture. No. 1
54. Bauer's mixture, No. 1
5. Bauer's mixture, No. 1,
with moist earth
5^. Bauer's mixture, No. 1,
with dry earth
29. Standard mixture and
wet sand
27. Standard mixture and
dry sand
28. Bauer's mixture. No. 1,
and dry sand - _
60. Standard mixture and
soil ---
24.
Many moved away, some are moving.
All dead, color of some still good.
Slight effect.
Some dead, majority in good condition.
All dead.
Form of some still quite good, slightly shriveled.
N early all
had moved away, two or three dead ones remaining.
- Good condition.
Some killed, mostly moved away.
'. All gone.
No effect.
-Old insects black and dead, larvse looking healthy.
.- -Still in good condition, finally moved away.
Considerable motion.
-Larvte moving freely about.
All moved away.
No effect.
. - Slight effect.
No signs of rapid death, many healthy.
Only one
in good condition, others browned and blackened.
, No effect.
-.A number dead, some moving.
All dead and dried up.
No effect.
Some slightly brown, most all moving.
Nearly all remaining ones are dead ;
many left the root; some have' good color and move.
No effect.
-- Some dead.
Quite a number dead.
-Nearly all dead, color of some is good.
Color of some is good.
Experiments 1, 61, 51, and 54, were treatments of infested roots with
simple mixtures alone. Considerable difficulty was experienced in keep-
ing the roots or insects free from actual contact with the mixture in cases
where the vapor alone was expected to act.
It will be seen that it required about twenty-four hours to cause death
in the most favorable cases, and that forty-two hours were the least in which
all were killed. This occurred in a newly prepared mixture of equal parts
of mercury and chalk, without oil. A slight effect was noticed in eighteen
hours, although fatal results occurred only at twenty-four hours, and the
shape of the insects still remained good until some time later. In the first
■experiment, with "old mixture" No. 1, the color remained good for seventy-
two hours, although the majority of the insects had left before fatal results
were produced. The most noticeable feature in the case of this mixture is,
that the insects become disturbed and move about before poisoning takes
place. Doubtless the' disagreeable atmosphere produced by the oil used
in the preparation hastens their departure, since the moving-about occurs
notably in the Bauer mixtures, as will be seen further on. It is, however,
noted in poisoning other pests by means of gases, that if the poison works
slowly, a general activity or disturbance will be noticed before death takes
192
place. In the present cases nearly all of the insects mov^ed away from the
root, leaving only a few dead ones behind. Doubtless the actual contact of
the mixture produced more fatal results than the vapor alone.
Nos. 5 and 5i were treatments made with one and the same soil mixture^
differing only in the one being moist and the other dry. The moist soil
seems to have been most effective, requiring forty-eight hours to kill the old
insects; the larvae escaped before death overtook them. At the end of the
fourth day one insect still had sufficient life to move away. Some eggs
upon the root retained good color to the end. The dry soil treatment did
not seem to kill the insects, in full accord with the negative results of the
field experiments with the same mixture.
In Nos. 29 and 27 we have fifteen grammes of standard mixture with
eight hundred grammes of coarse, washed sand. The former was perfectly
saturated with water, which evidently retarded the action of the mercury
vapor. We find only a slight effect at the end of thirty hours, and some
insects still in good condition at the end of seventy-eight hours. In the
dry mixture, on the contrar}^, large numbers were dead in thirty hours, and
lying in confused positions, showing the deadly work of the vapor. In less
than forty-six hours it had proven fatal to all and the bodies were dried up.
The effect of moisture seems to be reversed in this case, as compared with
the dry soil and Bauer mixture in experiments 5 and 5^. In the former
case the soil was but just moist, in the latter so wet that the water stood in
the bottom of the vessel.
No. 28 shows the slower effect of Bauer's original mixture in dry sand,
as compared with No. 27, in which our standard mixture was used in the
same proportion. The tendency to leave the root was again shown here in
the case of the former. It also gave the appearance of greater poisonous
effect, as in both cases at forty-seven hours nearly all the insects were
reported as being dead. In fact, only the weaker ones remained to be
killed, the stronger ones having left before poisoning took place in the Bauer
mixture. For the first twenty-four hours there was no noticeable effect in
either case. The rapid effect in No. 27 at the end of thirty-one hours was
shown by the confused positions of the dead insects.
In No. 50 we have the mercury mixture in somewhat larger proportion,
1 5 grammes of mixture to 550 grammes of dry earth. It required about forty-
five hours to produce death, being a trifle slower in action than sand and
Bauer's mixture, and much slower than mercury mixture in sand. Its
action is not so decided later on, a slower rate of death taking place from the
forty-fifth to the seventy-sixth hour. This points to an absorption of the
vapor by the soil. It is remarkable that in this case the Bauer's mixture
with soil was nearly as effective as the same mixture alone (No. 51).
The general outcome of the above experiments may be stated to be that
the effects of Bauer's mixture, both alone and when mingled with soil,
were decidedly slower than those of the mixture prepared by ourselves, in
the same general proportions; thus pointing to extraneous causes for its
inefficacy. That these were the presence of oil and of a considerable con-
tamination of lead in the quicksilver used by Mr. Bauer, has already been
alluded to.
Some irregularity in the results obtained in different experiments is,
however, to be expected, since it is next to impossible to make the condi-
tions exactly alike at different times. This is especially true of the condi-
tion of the soil used, both as to the moisture it contains and the degree of
fineness to which it has been brought. The latter especially, as will be
seen later, affects materially the rapidity and continuity of action.
193
ABSORPTION OF MERCURIAL VAPOR BY THE SOIL.
Upon the supposition, that in addition to the causes above discussed, the
failure of the mercury remedy might be partially due to an absorption of
the mercurial vapor by the soil itself, numerous experiments were made
with a view to testing this point. If the supposition were correct, it would
follow that in a soil mixed with finely divided mercury the effect on the
insects would be delayed in proportion to the amount of vapor which would
first be consumed in saturating the soil. It would follow that in a clay
soil, having a high absorptive power, this delay might be very great, while
in a sandy soil, of low absorptive power, it would be relatively prompt.
This presumption was strengthened by the fact that Mr. Bauer's successful
experiments had been made with the sandy soil of the City of San Fran-
cisco.
In order to insure saturation, so as to render the soil incapable of further
condensing the vapor formed at the ordinary temperature, it was obviously
best to heat it after intermixture with the mercurial mixture, thus forming
an abundance of vapor, which, on cooling, could not fail to leave the soil
fully impregnated, so that any excess present would be sure to be free to
act on the insect.
For practical purposes,- the lowest temperature at which such saturation
could be effected within reasonable limits of time, was evidently of capital
importance, since it would largely determine the cost of application of
saturated soil in the vineyard. This, therefore, was one of the objective
points in all our experiments concerning saturation, which are recorded
below.
ComiMvative Saturation of Soil and Sand, Experiments Nos. I4 and 15. —
In these experiments clean washed beach sand and soil from the Univer-
sity vineyard plot were the materials used for comparison.
About 3,500 grams (eight pounds) of soil were mixed with twenty-two
grams of standard mercury mixture and placed in a glass vessel, which
was immersed in a water-bath. In each a glass tube, 1x7 inches, was
inserted, having both ends open, and supposed to admit of free access of
vapor generated from the soil mixture. These tubes are referred to in
experiments Nos. 18, 20, and 22. Within them were placed smaller glass
tubes, covered with gold foil. The water-bath was kept at 120° F., for
about twenty-three hours, then raised to 180°, finally reaching 212° at the
thirty-ninth hour. The soil experiment showed a slight amalgamation of
the gold-foil after ten hours, a very decided one at thirty-six, which was
seen three inches vip the tubes. The effect did not appear higher at the
twenty-ninth hour, nor was it more extended when the temperature reached
212° F., although globules had formed in the tube while the temperature
was at 180° F. It was too hot for the condensation of the mercury in the
tubes, but the passing vapor seemed not to act completely on the foil.
In the sand experiment a slight effect was noticeable at the sixteenth
hour, and at the twenty -third a decided amalgam had formed, which
reached up the tube six inches. At the twenty-eighth hour a slight effect
was noticed to the top of the tube; and, at the thirty-ninth hour, mercury
had condensed in the upper end of the tube. The effect upon the foil was
much more general than in the soil. A porcelain dish placed over the sand
condensed the escaping vapor in appreciable quantities.
13*
194
The general conclusion is that the vapor escaped much more quickly in
the case of the sand, indicating that less was absorbed; but no close esti-
mate of the relative amounts could be made.
Effect of Saturated Soil upon the Phylloxera.
The table below shows the effect of soils and sand, saturated as above
stated, upon the insect:
Mateeial Used.
Time after
Beginning of
Experiment.
Condition op Insects.
18. Saturated dry soil.
22. Saturated dry soiL
19. Saturated dry soil- -
25. Saturated dry .soil- .
20. Saturated dry sand.
21. Saturated dry sand.
23. Saturated dry sand
24. Saturated sand, wetted
26. Saturated soil, wet and re-dried-
23 hours ..- ..No effect.
30 hours- - Moving about.
46 hours Larvae dropped off, dead.
24 hours Majority in good
condition, some brown, some dead.
32 hours -Nearly all dead.
49 hours - .'-All dead.
22 hours No decided effect;
30 hours--- -Normal and moving.
46 hours No motion, dead.
16 hours Normal.
24 hours Badly affected, not positively dead.
41 hours ---•- Mostly dead, some alive.
7 hours -- No effect.
23 hours.-- --- Normal, but moving.
30 hours Moving about confusedly.
47 hours Root dry.
7 hours - --- Normal.
23 hours Tuberous root was
dry, insects left it, adult larvse dead.
16 hours 1 Normal.
24 hours..- - All dead.
17 hours Normal.
25 hours Decided effect.
41 hours Nearly all dead, some moved.
66 hours... Color of some good.
23 hours- - Slight effect.
31 hours j None alive.
47 hours -.- All gone.
Three of the above experiments, Nos. 20, 18, and 22, were made by
placing pieces of infested roots in open tubes surrounded by the mercuri-
alized soil. This space might be supposed to be quite as well saturated as
the soil mixture itself, there being ample room at the lower end for the
flowing in of the vapor. Two have, however, produced less effective results,
and in the case of the sand very little, if any, effect could be noticed. No.
22, a duplicate of No. 18, seems to have produced good results, proving
fatal to some of the insects in twenty-four hours, and killing nearly all in
thirty-two hours; which equals the effect produced on roots placed in the
soils themselves, outside of the tubes. In the latter experiments forty
hours were required to kill all the phylloxera; while the sand is more
active, requiring only twenty-four hours to kill all. The effect was decided
in No. 23, as the insects did not move from their first position. The speci-
mens were all tested within a few days of the preparation of the saturated
soil.
Some of the impregnated sand was wetted to test the effect of moisture
upon the action of the vapor (No. 24) . We still get a decided action at the
twenty-fourth hour and find the insects nearly all dead at the forty-first.
Their peculiar positions show the characteristic effect; even at this hour
195
some still had motion. At sixty-six hours nearly all were brown; one or
two still retained 3^ellow color, but their legs were incurved and they were
undoubtedly dead. At eighty-nine hours one was still in good external
shape. This experiment shows that some individuals, in protected places,
may sur\dve some time after the effect has proved fatal to those most
exposed.
In No. 22 three insects were in a mass, the top one was black to brown,
the second lighter, aud the bottom one apparently in good condition.
Three of the root samples had eggs on them; on one the eggs remained
eighty hours before becoming darkened, and only at one hundred and four
hours were brown and shriveled, showing them to be very much more
slowly affected than the insects themselves, but that under continual action
they will finally die.
No. 26 refers to a soil sample that had become very wet during the satu-
ration. It was dried at ordinary temperature in the course of about ten
days. The insects placed in it were active at the twenty-third hour, but
were strewn all about and none alive at the thirty-first hour, and by the
forty-seventh all had disappeared. The wetting seems, therefore, to have
produced no effect upon the permanent efficacy of the mercurialized soil;
pro\dng that the natural alternations of the same kind, in the vineyard,
will not naturally influence the practical application of the remedy.
Experiments on the Least Time Required for Saturation^ at 110° F. — These
experiments were made with a view of finding the least time required for
the saturation of a soil with mercurial vapor at 110° F., the temperature
ordinarily available under a summer sun in California.
Nine samples of soil were prepared by mixing 15 grammes of standard
mixture with 550 grammes of slightly moist soil; one sample was left
unheated, and two each of the remaining samples were heated to 110° F.
for three, six, twelve, and twenty-four hours respectively. Another larger
sample, of two gallons, similarly prepared, was subjected to the same tem-
perature for three days, when the iodine test showed excess of mercuiy
vapor. The table below shows the results obtained in the exposure of
infested roots to the action of the several soil samples, in the same manner
as before described:
196
Table
Showing Effect of Time in Saturation of Soih.
Matkrial Used.
Time,
Hours.
Condition of Insects.
50. Soil and standard mixture, not
heated
37. Soil and standard mixture, heated
three hours - ---
49. Soil and standard mixture, heated
three hours '
38. Soil and standard mixture, heated
six hours
48. Soil and standard mixture, heated
six hours .— - -
89. Soil and standard mixture, heated
twelve hours
47. Soil and standard mixture, heated
twelve hours --
44. Soil and standard mixture, heated
twenty-four hours
56. Soil and standard mixture, heated
twenty-four hours
35. Soil and standard mixture, heated
seventy-two hours
59. Soil and standard mixture, heated
seventy-two hours
21.
45.
33.
76.
93.
24.
40.
65.
21.
28.
45.
52.
69-
24.
40.
48.
65.
24-
47'.
54.
71-
24.
40.
48-
69.
23.
47-
55.
79.
24.
40.
48.
24.
31.
48.
72.
79.
23.
31-
47-
18-
25-
42-
No effect.
Some apparently dead.
Quite a number dead.
-About all dead; color of some was good.
-- Color of some still good.
: No effect.
Large number dead.
-AH dead; one had good color.
No effect.
No apparent effect.
Nearly all dead.
-'.All dead.
Shriveled up.
- No effect.
Badly affected and browned.
-Majority are dead; some good color.
" One still alive.
No effect.
Large number dead.
All dead.
Some retain shape and color.
...Slight browning; insects active.
-Nearly all dead.
.All probably dead ; not shriveled.
Eggs shriveled.
No appreciable change.
Some dead.
.Quite a large number dead; some perfect.
All dead.
A few badly affected and brown.
Nearly all dead.
All dead; medium color; not shriveled.
No appreciable effect.
- Some apparently dead.
Some dead; many moving.
'.All dead.
.Two or three retained good shape.
No effect.
Some injured; some evidently dead.
All apparently dead.
No effect.
-- Some dead.
.Only a few have good form.
From the above record it appears that the soil not heated at all is slow
in its action, as it required at least forty-five hours to produce apparent
death in some, and seventy-six hours to kill all the insects.
Of the rest, the soils treated respectively twelve and twenty-four hours,
and three days, produced a visible effect within twenty-four hours after
the immersion of the phylloxerated roots. The majority of the insects
were killed at the fortieth to forty-eighth hours.
197
As regards No. 50, it will also be seen that as the delay of fatal effect is
increased, there is a chance for many of the insects to escape, for small
cracks, or pieces of bark lying loosely over them, protect them for the time,
and they come out after all the more exposed individuals are dead. In
nearly all these nine experiments, straggling individuals appeared sixty or
seventy hours after treatment, and many were found, having good shape
and color, even after the eightieth hour. They did not shrivel rapidly,
even when dead, as happens when the action is quick. The eggs seemed
to be but little affected.
Upon No. 35 the insects were scattered about, and one or two survived
the forty-seventh hour. An old one laid eggs at the fifty-fifth hour, and
was in fair shape at the seventy-first hour, but eight hours later was dried
and shriveled, as was also the egg.
It thus seems that twenty- four hours, at 110 degrees, is sufficient to satu-
rate the soil to such extent as to insure rapid and satisfactory results. But
it nevertheless appears, from a close discussion of the former tables, that in
the case of soils mercurialized at a high temperature, or by long treatment
at a lower one, the action in the later stages (after the fortieth hour, or
thereabouts) is more complete and thorough, the insects losing shape and
shriveling very soon after death.
VAPOR-SATURATION OF SOILS.
In order to determine definitely the amount of mercurial vapor which a
soil will absorb ("occlude"), an apparatus was devised in which the soil
could be exposed to such vapor at the desired temperature; the vapor,
formed below, passing through the soil until saturation was complete. The
first appliance used was simply a flask, on the bottom of which was placed
standard mixture scattered through asbestus. The soil was placed upon
this, and a tube reaching through the soil and asbestus to the bottom of the
flask was connected with a drying-tube. An aspirator exhausts the air from
above the surface of the soil, so as to suck dry air through the open tube
and the heated asbestus and soil. Experiments 31 and 45 were conducted
in this apparatus. It was, however, soon replaced by a more convenient
one. A small glass percolator replaced the flask; the layer of asbestus and
mercury mixture was increased to If inches in thickness, and was covered
with two fine wire gauzes, to prevent intermixture of the soil above with
the layer below. The soil fills the space to the top of the vessel, 3| inches.
An air-tight cover is luted to the upper end of the percolator, with an exit
tube connecting with a gauge bottle and aspirator. At the lower end of the
percolator vessel is fitted a piece of rubber tubing, which passes up on the
outside and is connected with a drying-tube. The whole, thus arranged, is
sunk, up to the cover, into a water bath, which is kept at 110° F. In the
exit tube is placed some iodine, which vaporizes quickly and indicates the
passing over of any mercury vapor. The aspiration is kept at the rate of
about 8.9 litres per hour, which, with a 7-mm tube, gives a velocity of 64
millimeters per second, and which is just rapid enough to keep the iodine
vapor from passing more than one half an inch toward the soil. At this
point, whenever mercurial vapor comes over, a distinct, bright red ring
forms diagonally around the inside, of the tube.
At varying times samples were taken out for assays. It was first at-
tempted to distil a definite quantity of saturated soil, and determine the
amount of mercury in the distillate, but a large amount of tarry matter
198
coming over with the vapor rendered it quite difficult to obtain accurate
results, so a wet method was substituted.
Fifty grams of soil were treated with strong nitric acid, and, after stand-
ing some time, was filtered, evaporated, and dried, treated with hydrochlo-
ric acid and the mercury precipitated with sulphydric gas, collected, and
the weight determined.
The table below gives in one column the amount as determined; hours
aspirated; amount of air passed through; and the calculated amount of
mercury per cubic foot of soil :
Number of ^'"^"'P' °^
Hours . ^"^ ,
Asniratpfi Aspirated.
Aspiiatea. (Litres.)
Mercurj' in
50 Grams
of Soil.
(Grams.)
Mercury in
1 cu. ft. of
Soil.
(Grains.)
31. Vapor-saturation of dry University soil, in
flask ■-
Vapor-saturation of dry University soil, in
flask 1
45. Vapor-saturation of dry University soil, in
flask -
55. Vapor-saturation of dry University soil, in
special apparatus
64. Vapor-saturation of dry University soil, in
special apparatus
53. Vapor-saturation of dry Bidwell's black
adobe soil, in special apparatus
60. Vapor-saturation of dry Bidwell's black
adobe soil, in special apparatus
54
54
51
94
144
46
144
480.6
480.6
453.9
836.6
1281.6
409.4
1281.6
.0070
.0115
»78.538
129.025
.0073
.0108
.0069
.0077
81.779
121.171
77.412
86-392
* Determined by distillation, yielding too low a result ; the next by extraction with nitric acid, as are all the
rest.
The table shows that the largest quantity of mercurial vapor taken up
by the soil amounts to only 129 grains per cubic foot. This includes the
amount actually absorbed, and supposed to have no effect upon the insect,
besides a part which, as will be seen, remains as an effective vapor. Just
what proportion of this total amount is really inert has not been deter-
mined, and, without doubt, varies considerably, if we may judge by the
effect produced upon the insect; for an increased amount of mercury found
in the soil does not seem to produce a proportionately increased effect.
The relative amount absorbed by the two soils does not bear out the sup-
position that the absorption of mercury vapor follows the general law for
the absorption of water vapor by the soil. The Bid well soil has a high
power of moisture absorption, is high in humus, and contains a large
amount of clay, all tending to a higher absorptive power than the Univer-
sity soil. But this does not hold good for the mercury vapor, except for
the soil aspirated during a shorter time, where it exceeds the University
soil in absorption, owing probably to its greater fineness. It is not obvious
from these determinations, and the analysis of the soils, what the chemical
nature of the soil should be to absorb mercurial vapor readily. Its physi-
cal condition may largely influence the absorption.
Effects of Vapor-Saturated Soils on the Phylloxera.
For the purpose of comparison, the specimens of soils which were vapor-
saturated were also tested as to their action on the phjdloxera. The results
obtained ai'e given in the following table, in which, for comparison, num-
bers 35 and 59 of the last table are reinserted:
199
Table
Showing the effects on the Phylloxera of Soils Saturated with Mercurial Vapor at 110 degrees.
Material Used.
No. of
Hours.
Condition of Insects.
35. Saturated University soil, with excess
of standard mixture.
69. Saturated Univer.sity soil, with excess
of standard mixture
36. Vapor-saturated University soil, slightly
moistened, aspirated 54 hours in flask. .
40. Vapor-saturated University soil, dry, as-
pirated 54 hours in flask
■58. Vapor-saturated University soil, aspi-
rated 51 hours in apparatus
<i2. Vapor-saturated University soil, aspi-
rated 144 hours in apparatus
03. Vapor-saturated University soil, moist-
ened, 144 hours in apparatus
■57. Vapor-saturated Bidwell soil, moistened,
aspirated 46 hours in apparatus
fi5. Vapor-saturated Bidwell soil, moistened,
aspirated 144 hours in apparatus
23.
31-
47-
18.
25.
42.
21-
45.
69.
93.
30.
46.
18.
25-
42.
30.
46-
22
7l!
75-
102.
18.
25-
18.
25-
No effect.
Some injured; some dead.
All apparently dead.
No effect.
— Some dead.
-Only a few have good form.
- No effect.
Look disturbed.
All are dead.
-Some eggs good color.
No effect.
Some apparently dead.
Some good condition; many left the root.
r .One in good condition.
-Quite decided effect; some dead.
'.--. All are dead.
Shriveled up.
Large num-
ber dead; many in perfect condition.
All apparently dead.
Shriveled up.
-- Very slight effect.
..Those most
exposed are dead ; many are perfect.
Some moving about.
Nearly all have left the root.
-.Quite decided effect;
some apparently dead ; some moving.
-. -' About
all gone; some quite good condition.
- Majority dead
and shriveled; few in perfect condition.
-- All dead and shriveled.
It will be noted that the dry soil (No. 40) acts more readily than the one
treated like it in all respects except moisture (No. 36). The effect was
decided even after twenty-two hours, but the effects did not increase to the
forty-fifth hour, as was anticipated; a slow fatality lasting until the sixty-
second hour, when all were dead, and nothing living was left b}^ the sev-
entieth hour.
. The remaining experiments, conducted in the new apparatus, where
more complete saturation could be attained, have given better results than
the preceding. All, except No. 63, have produced fatal results in eighteen
hours, and have been fatal to nearly all the insects in twenty-five to thirty
hours, and by the forty-sixth hovir, as the outer limit, all have been shriv-
eled.
In Nos. 58 and 62, similar soils, the latter treated longer than the former,
there is no noticeable gain by the longer treatment. The action was prompt
and decisive in both cases. In Nos. 57 and 65 a wider difference is notice-
able between the two treatments, and the action is even more prompt than
in the preceding numbers. An eighteen-hour treatment produced a fatal
200
effect in both cases; but in the former more insects were moving, and in
better condition. In the latter there was but httle motion, the insects dying
upon the spot where first located. The former left some in quite good con-
dition at twenty-five hours; the latter none with distinct form. This would
indicate a decided influence in favor of a longer treatment during vapor
saturation.
A comparison of Nos. 58 and 57, the former treated a little longer than
the latter, show them to be nearly equal in effect, the former being a trifle
more effective.
A peculiar discrepancy presents itself in comparing these results. It
will be seen that a longer aspiration, with the same soil, invariably pro-
duces more decided results ; but not in the same ratio that the soil becomes
charged with mercury. The assays, therefore, do not accurately fore-
shadow the effect the saturated soil will have when tested with the insects.
For instance, the Bidwell soil and University soil, of one hundred and
forty-four-hour treatments, give to the University soil the higher mercury
contents, but to the Bidwell soil the most decided poisoning effect. Evi-
dently the outcome is materially influenced by some peculiarities inherent
in the soils themselves, which it will take further investigation to identify.
Effects of Moistening. — The very marked effect of wetting on the efficacy
of a vapor-saturated soil, is shown in comparing Nos. 63 and 36. Even the
slight moistening of 36 has very decidedly retarded its action (from twenty-
two to forty-five hours) in producing fatal results, and to sixty-nine in kill-
ing all of the insects. At ninety -three hours one still moved, although
reddened ; some eggs had good color.
In No. 63, a moistened duplicate sample of 62, the action is very slow,
almost none. At twenty-three hours only a very slight effect was noticeable,
while at the same hour a large number were killed in No. 62. At seventy-
two hours some of those most exposed were killed, many were perfect and
moved about and were able to leave the root by the one hundred and second
hour.
Influence of the Degree of Division of the Soil on its Vaipor-Saturation. —
From the preceding experiments, showing the rapid action of soils satu-
rated with mercurial vapor on the phylloxera, it is e\ddent that the amounts
of the metal found by the assays do not represent only the portion really
rendered inert by absorption or occlusion, but include a certain excess,
which, being present in an extremely fine or perhaps even vaporous condi-
tion, acts with extraordinary energy upon the insects; at least as much so
as in the case of the soil saturated by heating with mercury finely diffused
through it.
It is e\'idently only by long exposure of the vapor-saturated soil to the
air, insuring the escape of all evaporable surplus, that the real minimum
of occluded metal can be ultimately determined. For this determination,
however, sufficient time has not yet elapsed.
It has, however, been definitely ascertained that vapor-saturated soil
rapidly decreases in its efficacy in the course of time, and the same decrease
has been noted even in the case of some samples- in which the mercurial
globules- had been actually intermixed with the soil.
There is no difficulty in accounting for this decrease in the former case.
The soil used is not uniformly fine, but consists of little clods ranging from
the size of dust particles to that of large sand grains, say .02 of an inch in
diameter. The dust particles are quickly saturated throughout; with the
201
larger particles, the vapor requires time to penetrate the whole mass and
saturate it. As this absorption into the interior of the clods progresses, the
free vapor of the air pores will be consumed thereby, and thus the efficacy
of its action on the phylloxera is materially diminished. After a time, of
course, when all is thoroughly saturated, a condition of equilibrium will be
established, to be disturbed only by the introduction of fresh, unsaturated
earth.
In the vineyard, where the clods will usually be larger than in our
experiments, it will also take a longer time to establish the condition of
thorough saturation and permanent equilibrium. On the other hand, our
experiments represent minimal results in this, that in order to allow of
continuous observation, the insects were protected from all immediate con-
tact with the mercurialized earth by the interposed screen of cheese cloth.
Considering the localization, and especially the sinking-down of the mer-
curial vapor shown in the experiments with tall cylinders, this constitutes a
serious impediment to the action of the mercury. All things considered,
there is reason to believe that when soil properly prepared is used in the
vineyard, the effect will be at least as prompt as in our experiments. Some
observations bearing on this point are given below.
The season having advanced so far that phylloxerated roots suitable for
direct experimentation could no longer be obtained, the following experi-
ments were made with a view to the approximate solution of the above
questions.
Detection of Free Vapor in Mercurial Mixtures and Mercurialized Soils. —
In order to determine approximately the relative proportion of free vapor
in mixtures after standing for some time, a portion of each was placed in
tubes about five eighths inches in diameter by fourteen inches long. The
lower end is drawn out to a small point and connected with a drying tube.
The soil was placed upon a thick layer of asbestus, and its upper surface
covered with cotton, of sufficient thickness to prevent particles of the sub-
stance being carried over when aspiration begins. Iodine was placed in
the exit tube connecting with the gauge-bottle and aspirator. The vapor
passed through the five-milimeter tube at the rate of thirty-two milimeters
per second.
202
Table
Showing Action of Memorialized Soils in Yielding Vapor.
Date of
Preparation.
Date of
Testing.
76. Saturated University soil,
from exj)erinient No. 14..
60. Saturated University soil,
from experiment No. 14..
69. Saturated sand, from exper-
iment No. 15
70. Sand with standard mix-
ture, not heated
75. Sand and Bauer's mixture..
78. Bauer's old mixture. No. 1..
77. Bauer'.s new mixture. No. 3
71. Vapor saturated University
soil (dry)
67. Vapor saturated University
soil
72. Vapor saturated Bidwell
soil --
79. Soil mixture, not heated
80. Soil mixture, not heated
Oct. 2 .
Oct. 2 .
Oct. 7
Oct. 9...
Oct. 9-.
April 20
Nov. 16
Nov. 13 -
Oct. 28 -
Nov. 10
Nov. 24
Nov. 24 .
Nov. 21
Nov. 17
Nov. 18
Nov. 19
Nov. 20
Nov. 24
Feb. 4..
Feb. 19.
Faint red ring in ten minutes,
quite distinct in fifteen minutes; du-
plicate gave a more decided reaction.
Very distinct yellow
color formed in twenty-five minutes ;
later, red became very distinct.
Feb. 17-.
Feb. 20.
Feb. 24.
Feb. 30.
Very distinct yellow
color formed in twenty-five min-
utes ; distinct characteristic red color
in three hours and twenty minutes.
Slight yellowing in ten minutes,
slight reddening in fifteen minutes.
yuite characteristic rings in five
minutes; ten minutes, quite red.
..Slight yellowing, not characteristic,
formed in a short time; distinct red
ring in four hours and fifty minute.s.
A yellow ring formed almost
immediately; eight minute.s, red.
...Thirty -five minutes slight yellow-
ing, not characteristic ; nine hours
and ten minutes, faint red color.
..Three hours and forty-five minutes
quite distinct yellow color; four
hours and thirty minutes very char-
acteristic color,'strong in five hours.
Eight
minutes, slight yellow ; twenty min-
utes, distinct yeUow with red tinge.
Five minutes, distinct red ring.
Five minutes, distinct red ring,
became very bright after standing.
A prompt and decided reaction is here shown in the saturated Univer-
sity soils which have been heated and have since stood six weeks. But
the sand similarly treated, and remaining nearly the same length of time,
is very much slower, requiring three hours, against fifteen to twenty minutes
in the soil similarly treated. No. 70, which was similarly composed but
not saturated by heat, exceeds the preceding one, and equals the soils
Avhich ivere heated.
A surprising result comes from No. 75 — Bauer's mixture, and sand not
heated — even exceeding No. 70, similarly treated, and standard mixture
used. It would thus seem that the mixtures not heated hold more vapor
at the end of six weeks than those that ivere heated.
In Nos. 78 and 77, we have a comparison of Bauer's two mixtures — the
former, the old one, with lead and oil, and the latter, the new one, free
from both. A very decided difference appears here, but in later exper-
iments, February, 1886, the two give reaction with nearly equal promptness.
The vapor-saturated soils give a very wide difference in amounts of
vapor. That of the Bidwell soil aspirated one hundred and forty-four
hours, had kept its saturation to the full extent.
203
The remaining soil, prepared for use in the field, 1 part of mercury to
714 of soil, gave a rapid and decisive reaction as soon as it was prepared.
Further experiments are needed to explain some of these divergent
results.
Lateral Diffusion of the Mercurial Vapor. — In order to test the rapidity of
the sidewise diffusion of mercurial vapor through the soil, a box 6x6x23
inches inner dimensions was made, care being taken to make close fitting
joints. At one end was placed a column of mercurialized soil, 714 parts to
1 of mercury ; being approximately the proportion directed by Mr. Bauer
to be used in practice, in planting a new vineyard with the remedy. The
remaining portion of the box is filled with dried soil of uniform fineness
throughout, separated by a partition of cheese cloth from the mercurialized
soil. The whole is covered with a close fitting cover. Upon one side are
holes, stopped with movable plugs, at intervals of 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, and 8 inches,
through which the soil can be taken and tested to note the progress of the
vapor.
At the end of one month the soil, at a distance of one inch from the
mixture, gave a characteristic test for mercury with iodine in about twenty
minutes, showing a very slight amount, and slow diff'usion. Further tests
will be made, from month to month, or as fast as the indications may seem
to require them.
VINEYARD EXPERIMENTS WITH MERCURIALIZED SOIL.
In order to test, in the field, the results obtained in the laboratory experi-
ments above detailed, about three gallons of vineyard soil was mixed with
the usual amount of standard mixture, and heated in a water bath at a
boiling temperature about four days, until the mercury vapor condensed
upon a dish placed above the mouth of the jar in which the soil was heated.
We were thus assured of complete saturation of the soil with mercurial
vapor. One third of the soil so treated was placed near a vine, carefully
covering, but not completely surrounding, some roots which were badly
infested. The mercurialized soil was covered with paper and the original
soil replaced above it. On the fifth day no living insects could be found
upon the upper side of the roots, within the limit of the treated soil. On
the sixth day, the insects on the lower side of the roots were still alive,
although some were affected. On the ninth day, no insects could be found
within the treated portion, above or below, but very numerous and apparently
unaffected colonies just outside its limit. The effect had apparently not
extended even half an inch outside of the mercurialized earth.
Another portion of mercurialized soil was prepared by mixing 250 grams
of standard mixture with two" gallons of soil. It was heated to 110° F. for
three days, and then one and one half gallons placed around the roots of a
badly infested vine. The large roots were completely surrounded by it,
and the surface of the replaced natural soil moistened with water. At the
end of five days no insects could be found where the prepared soil had
reached, but just outside of this limit Avas an abundant supply. We are
assured of the presence of the vapor in the mixture by its effect upon insects
in the laboratory, and are also certain that its limit could not have been
extended to any distance beyond, as the insects near by were unharmed.
Of course, only a slight diffusion at best could have been expected in so
short a time as five days, and it would, therefore, be of little service to a
vine with far-reaching roots, within any similarly short time.
204
GENERAL CONCLUSIONS.
The causes of the faihire of the field experiments of the last season
having now been successfully traced, it remains to be shown whether the
needful saturation of soils with mercurial vapor can be accomplished in
some manner that will render the method practically available to grape-
growers, whether for the prevention or for the cure of the phylloxera inva-
sion. In what manner, and at what temperature, can this impregnation
be accomplished cheaply on the large scale, at or near the ^^neyards to be
treated, and without endangering the health of the operators?
It is ob^^ous that in the case of sandy soils preliminary preparation may
be dispensed with; and that the mode of application used by Mr. Bauer
will still be satisfactory, provided that the mixture was made with mer-
cury free from lead, and without oil.
In the case of heavier soils, in which preliminary impregnation is neces-
sary in order to insure prompt action, we have determined how long an
exposure to the temperature usually acquired in the sundrying of raisins,
and which has been adopted as the desirable temperature in the best fruit
driers, viz.: 110°, will suffice to effect the saturation. From our experi-
ments it appears that exposure to this temperature during tivelve hours
makes the dry earth nearly as effectual in destroying the phylloxera, as
any longer period of exposure; but for safety's sake a longer heating should
be used in practice, where soils will not be in as fine a condition as in our
experiments.
This suggests that in order to prepare the impregnated earth on a large
scale, it might first be made fine by harrowing and rolling;, then taken up
by means of scoops and spread on a drying floor placed on a warm expos-
ure in the vineyard, in such manner that after full drying and raking into
it the proper proportion of the mercurial chalk or clay mixture, a three or
four days' exposure to sunshine would fulfill the minimum condition of a
twelve hours' heating to 110°. The earth would then be ready to be placed
around the vines or cuttings to be protected against infection in such quan-
tities as continued experience shall show to be necessary. A minimum of
one quarter cubic foot has been suggested above (see Bulletin No. 48), but
it may be desirable to allow a wider margin of safety, and use the full
amount originally suggested by Mr. Bauer — half an ounce of mercury, or
one ounce of his mixture — for each vine. With about a cubic foot of earth —
filling a hole say a foot across and twelve inches deep — the earth would
contain nearly twice the amount of mercury required for its full satura-
tion, and would thus be very likely to be fully effective. That, however,
saturation at steam heat would be more certain to insure the maximum
effectiveness, is rendered probable by several experiments described above.
A suggestion of devices to accomplish this in the field is given in Bulletin
No. 48.
The effect of earth thus impregnated upon fine rootlets, the differences
created by differences of soil, the spread of the mercurial vapor sideways
and downward, and many other points suggested in the course of this work,
are still under investigation, and their determination will take some time.
205
THE PHYLLOXERA AT BERKELEY.
At a meeting held May 11, 1885, the follo^^dng resohition was passed by
the Board of State Viticultural Commissioners:
COPY OF RESOLUTION.
Resolved, That the Committee on Vine Pests and Diseases of the Vine be instructed to
ascertain whether the phylloxera still continues to infest the vines at the University
grounds, Berkeley, and, if so, to enter into communication with the proper officers of the
University, and request that the infested vines be destroyed as soon as possible, so that
the pest may be completely exterminated before the season of prevailing summer winds
shall cause further dangerof the spread of disease into healthy districts.
A copy of this resohition was communicated to the Secretary of the Uni-
versity on Jmie fifth, and during the recess of the Board of Regents a
memorandum containing a reply to the same, and giving reasons why the
request of the Viticultural Commission should not be complied with, was
prepared by Professor Hilgard. At a meeting of the Regents held on
August fourteenth, the above resolution, together with the memorandum
mentioned, was read, and by the Board referred to the Committee on Viti-
culture for report at a future meeting. Shortly after, a communication
signed by the Chairman of the Committee on Vine Pests of the Viticultural
Commission, and purporting to answer the statements of the above memo-
randum, was sent to the Secretary of the University, and simultaneously
published in certain periodicals. A rejoinder to the latter communication
was presented by Professor Hilgard to the Chairman of the Regents' Viti-
cultural Committee, and at a meeting of the Regents held September first,
the following report and recommendation concerning the subject was made
by that committee, and unanimously adopted by the Board of Regents:
Second— We recommend the continuation of the study of the phylloxera on the Uni-
versity grounds, believing it to be without the slightest danger of infecting other parts of
the State, on account of the extreme care taken by Professor Hilgard ; and we believe it
will probably result in obtaining a knowledge of the habits and life of this insect, which
will be of great value to vine-growers. We think that Professor Hilgard should be
requested to make a full report of the controversy.
RespectfuUv,
GEORGE .T. AINSWORTH.
.T. WEST MARTIN.
In pursuance of this action of the Board of Regents, the following pre-
sentation of the points involved is made by Professor Hilgard :
University of California, College op Agriculture, )
Berkeley, September 5, 1885. j
George J. Ainsworth, Esq., Chairman Viticultural Conference Committee:
Dear Sir: In accordance with the recommendation of your committee,
adopted by the Board of Regents at their late meeting, I respectfully sub-
mit the following summary statement:
When, some five years ago, the orchard, vineyard, and propagating
houses of the University were placed in my charge, and some time after-
ward it was discovered that the vines were infested by the phylloxera, I
made immediate preparations to apply to the whole plot the "death treat-
ment " with bisulphide of carbon. A French " injector " was loaned for the
purpose by Mr. John H. Wheeler, from whom also a supply of the bisulphide
was obtained. Unfortunately the stony nature of the ground rendered
206
operations very difficult, the injector being broken several times; after
which the ground became too hard, and the matter had to be left in abey-
ance for the season of 1881.
During the legislative session of 1880, an Act was passed creating legal
machinery for the repression of insect pests, action in respect to the phyl-
loxera being specially delegated to the State Viticultural Commission.
During the year a vigorous stand was made for the enforcement of these
laws by the fruit growers, and with excellent results, until finally, in a test
case brought before the Supreme Court, the Act was declared unconstitu-
tional in some respects, and its enforcement had to be abandoned. No
serious attempt to enforce the provisions relating to the repression of the
phylloxera was, during that interval, made by the Viticultural Commis-
sion, owing in part, perhaps, to the opposition of vineyard proprietors in
the infested districts to measures that would declare the existence of the
pest in their neighborhood. The Commission, conjointly with the Uni-
versity, proceeded to the ascertainment and outlining of the infested areas,
and made recommendations regarding disinfection, resistant vines, etc.,
based on the action previously taken in France. It omitted, however, any
reasonably adequate provision for the observation of the life-habits of the
phylloxera, a knowledge of which Avas, nevertheless, of great practical
importance in estimating its probable advance within the State, as well as
in making the best choice of means for its repression. Such provision was
among the first measures adopted by European Governments, and our pre-
liminary work had rendered it ob^dous that a material difference, in several
respects, must exist as the cause of the relatively slow progress of the pest
in this State, when compared with France and the East.
In view of these facts and of the remoteness of the University grounds
from any serious vineyard enterprise in the direction of the winds that
steadily prevail during the season when there might be danger of infection
being carried to some distance, I reconsidered the determination to extir-
pate, immediately, the phylloxera in the University plot; the more, as the
latter is so located with reference to the rest of the grounds (viz.: at their
northeastern extremity), that in view of the trade winds steadily prevail-
ing during summer, with proper precautions, even the infection of other
portions of the grounds where vines might be planted, was only a remote
possibility. So long as cuttings and grape boxes from infested districts
continued to circulate freely in all directions, it seemed to me of much
greater importance to have under my own observation and control, a plot
on which exact experiments and observations could be made at all times
by practiced observers, and with the aid of the best appliances, than to
remove so infinitesimal a chance of infection as is here afforded, provided
reasonable care be exercised.
It has been claimed by the Chairman of the Committee on Vine Pests,
that "such observations could be better made on a large scale within the
infected districts," and that the repeated excursions made by my assistant,
Mr. Morse, under the auspices of the Commission, to these regions, are ade-
quate for the purposes in view. But this idea is based on a misapprehen-
sion of what constitutes valid experimentation and observation. Neither
of these can be carried out to conclusive results by occasional tours of
inspection. It is necessary to place competent observers where, whether
for experiment or for the study of its life-habits, the inflect can he xinder daily
and hourly observation; and this, as stated, has been done by all European
Governments that have acted in the premises. The omission of this nec-
essary part of intelligent action, by the Viticultural Commission, alone
207
amply justifies the maintenance of the infested plot at Berkeley, so long as
it can be done without serious danger to vine-growing districts. The latter
is the only point about which there can be any discussion; and on this
point the observations made at the University have shed very essential light.
It is now generally understood that, apart from the transportation of
infested soil and vineyard materials or appliances, the chief danger of infec-
tion arises from the existence of the " winged form" of the phylloxera,
which, during a certain period, usually of from four to six weeks in July
and August, issues from the ground around the infested vine during the
warm hours of the day, and may be carried to a distance, even of several
miles, by violent winds in level regions.' The fly, however, has very lim-
ited powers of flight, does not rise high in the air, and depends mainly on
the wind for its locomotion. Hence, bodies of forest, and high steep ridges
unoccupied by vineyards that would form way stations, have been else-
where as well as here found to be impediments, or, as the case may be,
eftectual barriers to the progress of the insect, provided effectual quaran-
tine is maintained.
Until within the last year, the nearest serious vineyard enterprises under
the wind from the Berkeley "vdneyard plot, were some fifteen miles away,
near Martinez, across many ranges of high hills; the highest being directly
back of the experimental grounds, which, moreover, lie in the " dead angle "
under the range, and are screened by trees on all sides. It is doubtful
that more than one out of a thousand of the winged insects would usually
be carried even beyond the limits of the University grounds by the trade
winds; and the chance of that one for getting beyond the first high, steep
range, would be but a dismal one. When it comes to traversing several
more ranges covering the remainder of the distance, its prospects would be
desperate indeed.
To this view of the matter the representative of the Commission has
objected "that the Napa Valley, south of Yount\dlle, has apparently been
invaded by the winged female, which has been blown across the high
mountain ridge which divides the region from Sonoma." There is nothing
to support or justify any such conclusion. The first phylloxera ted spot
within the Napa Valley was observed by me in 1877, close to the stage road
and public highway leading directly from the worst infested portion of
Sonoma, and on which vineyard material was and is constantly being
hauled back and forth. It is plainly from this highway and its infested
wagon-loads, that the insect has spread in the Napa Valley; probably quite
as much through this direct transportation of infested material as through
the agency of the winged insect itself.
There are, however, circumstances apparently peculiar to California,
whereby the supposed danger referred to by the Commission is reduced to
a minimum. One is the now well established rarity of the winged form of
the phylloxera in ordinary seasons,* that (as long ago suggested by me)
largely explains the relatively slow progress of the pest in California.
Among the vines in the University plot Mr. Morse has found only one vine
that has furnished the winged insect every season, the rest var}dng in this
respect in different years, but mostly showing few or none.
In addition, the observations at the University have demonstrated the
fact, that an unusually large proportion of the winged insects is sterile, and
hence unable to carry infection; further, that of about one hundred and
*To this inile there was a notable exception during the wet Summer of 1884, and to this
my remarks before the Viticultural Convention held that year, directly referred.
208
gixty eggs from winged insects, kept under observation in 1884, not a sin-
gle one hatched into the sexual forms, which alone, as a rule, produce the
** winter egg;" and further, that in the whole course of Mr. Morse's exten-
sive investigations, he has found only two cases which pointed to the pro-
duction of the winter egg, while the most diligent search thus far has failed
to find the latter itself. However important in France, the " winter egg "
seems, therefore, to play a very insignificant part in California, and the
suggested carrying of infection anywhere through the distribution of other
plants upon which it might have been accidentally deposited, is thus
reduced to an improbability represented by figures beyond the usual range
of our ideas.
Whatever may be the precise cause of these deviations from the habits
observed in other countries, they are obviously of no mean importance, for
they imply that with us the communication of infection is much more
easily avoided than elsewhere, and that a rigorous system of disinfection,
enforced by law, would have been of great efficacy in preventing the spread
of the pest. It is the more to be regretted that the strong influences brought
to bear so successfully on other \dticultural matters at the last session of the
Legislature, should have omitted to place such pro\4sions on the statute
books. Of all noxious insects, the phylloxera is now, in this State, the Only
one of which the repression can only be attempted through the influence of
moral suasion. It is thus that the focus of infection known to exist for
several years past, in the neighborhood of San Jose, in the very center of
one of the most important viticultural districts of the State, remains in
statu quo to-day, although incomparably more dangerous to the Santa Clara
Valley, and even to that of Livermore (now free from the pest), than the
well guarded plot at Berkeley can be to any of the vineyards of Contra
Costa.
It should be understood that the infested plot at the University (repre-
senting a square of about 70x75 feet and containing only about forty
infested stocks besides a number of resistants planted for experiment's
sake), is and has been used exclusively for the purposes of experiment and
study, such as testing the resistance of different grape varieties to the phyl-
loxera, the efficacy of various proposed remedies, and the study of the life-
habits of the insect; the latter part being under the special charge of Mr.
Morse, whose second report thereon is now in course of preparation. Noth-
ing whatever, in any shape, has ever gone out from the infested plot, even
to infested districts.
The grape cuttings and seedlings distributed from the University have
all been grown at the garden of economic plants, a quarter of a mile away,
above the wind; and all have been carefully disinfected before packing.
But the closest scrutiny of the vines growing in that garden (at the west-
ern extremity of the grounds), of which many are non-resistants, has failed
to show a trace of the phylloxera.
At the present time, many experiments are in progress that illustrate well
the desirableness of maintaining this plot as it is. Among them are sev-
eral in relation to the unlooked-for failure, thus far, of the mercurial rem-
edy suggested and furnished to us by Mr. J. A. Bauer. The insecticide
power of mercurial vapor formed at the ordinary temperatures is well
known and established by the experience of centuries. It is also shown
promptly whenever the insect is exposed to air confined over metallic mer-
cury. From some cause this vapor is not formed, or is rendered inactive
for a time at least, in earth treated with Mr. Bauer's preparation; and the
chief executive viticultural officer has somewhat hastily inferred its entire
209
failure, in advance of further examination into the possible causes of this
unexpected result, and a possible overcoming of the difficulty. I am now
investigating this subject experimentally, a thing which it would be impos-
sible to do unless the living infested vines were under my immediate
observation and control.
In conclusion I would say, that while the demonstrations and experi-
ments now under way in the University vineyard plot are, in my opinion,
too valuable to be sacrificed in the manner suggested by the Commission,
to an unfounded apprehension, it is feasible to do away with even the
remote possibility suggested by the (to me thus far unknown) existence of
a new vaneyard within five miles of the University in the direction of Mar-
tinez, by covering the ground around the infested vines with a dressing of
gas lime, which will comjjletely cut off the exit of the winged insects.
Respectfully,
E. W. HILGARD,
Professor of Agriculture.
The matter prepared for this report, on the subject of " resistant vines,"
is unavoidably omitted from the present publication for want of time for
proper arrangement and discussion. It is proper, however, that at least a
general statement concerning this subject, and the bearings of the preced-
ing investigations thereon, should be made.
The observations of Mr. Morse seem to show clearly that the cause of the
observed slow spread of the phylloxera in California, is to be found in the
scarcity of the winged form of the insect, as long ago suggested by the
writer; and that this rarity is due to the absence of summer rains, and of
surface fertilization, both militating against the formation of the white
rootlets near the surface, that appear to be the special breeding-ground of
the winged form. If this be true, then quarantine regulations providing
against the accidental spread of the wingless forms, should be of excep-
tional efficacy in this State and cannot too soon be established. But how-
ever well guarded in this way, the vineyards of uninfested districts must
remain in constant jeopardy from accidents and carelessness, so long as
the actual extirpation of the pest in the infested regions is not compassed.
The latest reports of French experience in this respect,- and of the inefficacy
of the " culture treatment " of infested vineyards for their permanent main-
tenance in profitable productiveness, are not encouraging in this respect.
The American resistant stocks will therefore, hereafter as heretofore, con-
stitute practically the only resource of infested regions.
For uninfested regions, the three measures to be resorted to are, first,
"eternal vigilance;" second, the planting of resistant stocks, whether for
direct fruiting or for grafting with vinifera varieties; third, the preventive
use of the "mercurial remedy" during or after planting, under the condi-
tions which have been found necessary to insure its efficacy. How far the
favorable results obtained with that remedy on the small scale can be
realized in large practice, nuist yet be determined; but the outlook for its
success as a preventive is certainly hopeful.
As regards the choice of resistant grafting stock, it is certain that it will
have to be carefully guided by farther experience. It is coming to be more
and more fully understood that while our vigorous native stock, the Cali-
14"
210
forniea, succeeds excellently on rich, heavy, and especially deep soils, it is
not satisfactory where soils of lower quality and comparatively shallow
depth prevail: in these, the Riparia and ^Estivalis, and perhaps the Rupest-
ris, are preferable. Under favorable conditions, however, the most vigorous
growth and earliest bearing are recorded for the Californica.
In the work on resistant vines lately issued by Prof. Millardet, the resist-
ing power of the Californica in France is placed no higher than that of the
Eastern Fox or Lahrusca varieties, which are commonly rated in this
respect but little above the viniferas themselves. As Prof. Millardet's experi-
ence can not be older than ours, we must still incline to regard what we
have seen here, ourselves, as better authority in the premises, so far as Cal-
ifornia is concerned. It is, in fact, quite possible that under the combined
influence of summer rains and fertilization, the root habits of the Califor-
nian vine are changed to the injury of its resisting powers, in the direction
of the formation of delicate surface roots, instead of the tough and deep-
going, though relatively soft, tendon-like ones, that characterize it in its
native home, and in which the bite of the phylloxera produces only little
ring-like swellings, that nowise interfere with the health of the root or vine.
Any one of the " resistant stocks " can be placed under conditions that will
make it succumb to the attack of the phylloxera; hence the importance of
carefully co-adapting soils and stocks in this case as well as when we plant
viniferas for direct bearing.
Details, in respect to these several points, will be given in a future report.
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