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=i MIGHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
TO THE
TLEF1ELDS (1914-1918)
RHEIMS
AND THE BATTLES FOR ITS POSSESSION.
MICHEUN & Cie., CLERMONT-FERRAND
MICHEL1N TYRE Co. Ltd., 81 Fuiham Road, LONDON, S. W*
MICHEUN TIRE Co,, MUXTOWN. K JU U. S. A,
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i
65, AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMfiE, PARIS (16).
IN MEMORY
OF THE MICHELIN WORKMEN AND EMPLOYEES WHO
DIED GLORIOUSLY FOR THEIR COUNTRY
RHEIMS
And the Battles For Its Possession
Published by
Michelin & Cie, Clermont-Ferrand, (France)
Copyright, 1920, by Michelin & Cie
All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or whole) reserved
in all countries
On July 6th, 1919, the President of the French
Republic conferred the Croix de la Legion
d'Honneur on Rheims (fastening it personally on
the City Arms), with the following " citation ": —
" Martyred city, destroyed by an infuriated
enemy, powerless to hold it.
''''Sublime population, who, like the Municipal
Authorities — models of devotion to duty and de-
spising all danger — gave proof of magnificent
courage, by remaining more than three years under
the constant menace of the enemy s attacks, and
by leaving their homes only when ordered to do so.
" Inspired by the example of the heroic French
maid of venerated memory, ivhose statue stands in
the heart of the city, showed unshakeable faith in
the future of France (Croix de Guerre)."
RHEIMS, AS SEEN FROM THE CERMAN LINES
{Photograph found on a German prisoner)
RHEIMS
POLITICAL HISTORY
Rheims is one of the oldest towns in France, so old that legendary accounts,
in an endeavour to outdo one another, carry back its foundation sometimes
to 1440 B.C. after the Flood, sometimes to the siege of Troy. Lying at the
intersection of the natural routes between Belgium and Burgundy, and between
the Parisian basin and Lorraine, i.e. between political districts that long
remained different in character, and regions having different commercial
resources, it was at one and the same time the " oppidum " and market-town.
Its military and commercial position destined it early to be a great city.
It probably takes its name from the tribe of the Remi, who occupied
almost the whole territory now forming the " departements " of the Marne
and the Ardennes, and who were clients of the Suessiones (Soissons) before
the Roman conquest. It was already a prosperous town, under the name of
" Durocortorum," when Caesar conquered Gaul. It freed itself from the yoke
of the Suessiones by accepting the Roman domination. When the Belgians
revolted in 57 B.C., the Remi remained faithful to Caesar and received the title
of " friends of the Roman people." Neither did they take any part in the
general revolt of Gaul in 52 B.C. Under the Empire, Rheims was, with Treves,
one of the great centres of Latin culture in "Gallia Belgica." On becoming a
federated city, it retained its institutions and senate. A favourite residence of
the Roman Governors, Rheims was embellished with sumptuous villas and
magnificent monuments, and soon became one of the most prosperous towns in
Gaul. At the beginning of the Germanic invasions Rheims drew in its borders
ce and became a military town. Under Diocletian it was the capital of Belgica
q£ Secunda.
— According to tradition, Christianity was first preached in Rheims by St.
_. Sixtus and St. Sinirus, the first bishops of the city. However that may be,
^3 Christianity was firmly established there as early as the 3rd century. A bishop
3: of Rheims was present at the Council of Aries in 314. The conversion of
§§ several great Roman personages (amongst others, the Consul Jovinus — see
<j p. 118) favoured the progress of the Christian religion.
In the 5th century, when Rome, otherwise occupied, was unable to hold
back the barbarians, invasions interfered with the development of the city.
The Frankish conquest marked the beginning of a new period of prosperity.
In 486, after the victory of Soissons, Clovis entered into negotiations with
St. Remi, who, at the age of 22, had been elected Bishop of Rheims in 459,
and whose long episcopate of seventy-four years is probably unique in history.
On Christmas Day, a.d. 496, St. Remi, who had arranged the marriage of
Clovis with the Christian princess Clotilde, baptized the Frankish king with
his <»wn hands in the Cathedral. This important event took place undoubtedly
at Rheims and not at Tours, as a learned German, Krusch, has attempted to
prove.
Under the Merovingians and Carolingians, the history of Rheims became
merged in that of the French monarchy. The possession of the city was dis-
puted as fiercely as that of the throne. The city was mixed up in quarrels from
which it suffered, without, however, losing its religious prestige. Pepin-le-
Bref and Pope Stephen III., Charlemagne and Pope Leo III. had famous inter-
views there. When the Carolingians restored the religious hierarchy Rheims
became one of the twenty-two chief cities of the Empire. From the time of
Charlemagne, the Archbishop of Rheims ruled over twelve bishoprics, com-
prising the cities of the ancient Roman province of Belgica Secunda.
3456G4
From the 9lli to the 11th century the history of Rheims is that of its
church. The Counts of Vermandois, the Lords of Coucy and the archbishops
first disputed, then divided its temporal possession, the latter falling eventu-
ally to the archbishops in the 11th century. After becoming Counts, with the
right to coin money, and, from 940, powerful temporal princes, the archbishops
played a great political part in the struggles between the Carolingian princes.
I ader Charles-le-Chauve, Archbishop Hincmar became the protector of the
enfeebled monarchy. In 858 he prevented Louis-le-Germanique from deposing
his nephew and becoming King of France. In 987, Archbishop Adalberon, at
the .Meeting of Senlis, drove the legitimate heir, Charles de Lorraine, from the
throne, and favoured the election of Hughes Capet. Although, under the Cape-
tians, Paris became the political capital of France, Rheims became the religious
metropolis of the kingdom. From the time when Louis-le-Pieux had himself
consecrated emperor in the Cathedral, by Pope Stephen IV., it was understood
that every new king must be consecrated by the successor of St. Remi.
The Consecration of the Kings of France
In the 12lh century, Popes and Kings formally acknowledged the right
of the Archbishop of Rheims to consecrate and crown the Kings of France.
As a matter of fact, until the Revolution, all the kings, except Louis IV. and
Henri IV., were consecrated at Rheims.
The ceremony of consecration filled the Cathedral with a great crowd of
people. Apart from the peers, numerous prelates, dignitaries of the Kingdom,
the Court, the Chapter of the Cathedral and the populace crowded in. Staging
was erected for the public in the transept ends and along the choir. Before
the consecration took place, the archbishop, at the head of a procession, went
to receive the Sacred Ampulla at the threshold of the Cathedral, brought on
horseback by the Abbot of St. Remi. Returning to the altar, the prelate
received the King's oath and then consecrated him, anointing him with the
holy oil on bis head and breast, between and on his shoulders, on the joints
of his arms and in the palms of his hands, each motion being accompanied
with a special prayer. Then the Peers handed the insignia of royalty to the
archbishop, who, surrounded by all the Peers, placed the crown of Charlemagne
on the head of the King, while the people shouted " Long live the King."
The King was then led to a throne prepared for him at the entrance to
the Choir, and mass was celebrated with great pomp. The King and Queen
communicated in both kinds, and the royal party then went in procession to
the archbishop's palace, where the Feast oj Consecration was held.
In 1162, the Archbishopric of Rheims, until then a county, became a Duchy
and the highest peerage in France, which explains why it was given to great
personages, such as Henri-de-France and Guillaume-de-Champagne, brother
and brother-in-law of Louis VII.
In the 12th century the archbishops, freed from the feudal rivalries, were
confronted by a new power, the bourgeoisie or middle classes, born of the
progress of industry and commerce, and whose importance was demonstrated
by the great Champagne Fairs held sometimes at Rheims and sometimes at
Troyes. The first Company of Burgesses, founded in 1138, soon became a
" Commune." In 1147, the suburb of St. Remi, which the archbishop refused
to allow to become attached to the "Commune," rose in revolt and was only
appeased by the intervention of St. Bernard and Suger.
In 1160, Archbishop Henri-de-France, with the help of the Count of Flan-
ders, who was occupying Rheims with a thousand horsemen, suppressed the
" Commune," whose independence was alarming him. In 1182 a royal charter,
granting to the inhabitants the right to elect for a year twelve " echevins"
(aldermen), re-established the Commune in fact, if not in name, but the
struggle between the Commune and the archbishop still went on. In 1211,
Philippe-Auguste compelled the aldermen to hand over the keys of the city
gates to the archbishop.
In 1228, Archbishop Henri-de-Braine, not feeling himself safe in the city,
built the fortified castle of Mars-Gate (or old castle of the archbishops) outside
the walls, but looking towards the city {photo below). During the serious
riots of 1235, the burgesses besieged the archbishop's castle, for which act
THE CONSECRATION CEREMONY OF THE KINCS OF FRANCE IN THE
CATHEDRAL OF RHEIMS (.SCC p. 4)
they were excommunicated liy Pope Gregory 1\.. and rebuked by St. Louis.
In 1lV>7. St. Louis intervened once more, in pul an end to the fighting between
the free Companies ol the Burghers and the soldiers ol the archbishop.
In the llili centurj the two adversaries frequently came to blows, until
the kin?:, in L362, pul an end to their quarrels by taking into bis own bands
ilie care and military government of Rheims.
In spite of these local struggles the city developed in i lie course of tbe
Middle Ages. With Chartres it had a well-attended episcopal school, long
before Paris. Among tbe masters of this school were Gerbert, one of the
most learned men of the Middle Ages, who became Pope under the name of
Sylvester II., and St. Bruno, founder of the Carthusian Order. Among the
pupils were Fulbert (afterwards Bishop of Chartres), the historian Richer,
Guillaume de Champeaux, and Abelard (adversary of St. Bernard).
During the Hundred Years' War (see military section) the Town Council
of Rheims, which the Treaty of Troyes in 1420 had placed under the domina-
tion of the English, declared in favour of Charles VII., in spite of the Duke of
Burgundy, who was residing at Laon, and notwithstanding tbe intrigues of the
Bishop of Beauvais, Pierre Cauchon, who, profiting by the absence of the arch-
bishop, went so far as to have a Corpus Christi procession in the city, to call
down the blessing of Heaven upon the English. On July 17th, 1429, Joan-of-
Arc handed over the keys of the city to the king, and was present at the con-
secration, standing near the altar with her standard which, '* after having been
through much tribulation, was accounted worthy of a place of honour." Since
the return of Charles VII. to Rheims, the city had never ceased to be French.
After the departure of the king and Joan-of-Arc, a friend of Pierre Cauchon
plotted to deliver the town into the hands of the Duke of Burgundy, to whom
the English promised it, provided he could take it. The plot was discovered
and failed.
Under Louis XL a serious revolt, known as the Micquemaque, broke out
in the town. Louis, well received at the time of his consecration, had promised
the people of Rheims (or so they believed) the abolition of the tax known as
the " taille." When, therefore, in the following year, the collectors demanded
payment, the people rose in revolt and drove them out.
THE OLD CASTLE OF THE ARCHBISHOPS OF RHEIMS,
RAZED TO THE CROUND BY HENRI IV.
The Archbishops of Rheims were formerly powerful temporal
lords (see page 4).
As usual, the king had recourse to treachery. Disguised as peasants, his
soldiers entered the city unperceived. Once inside, they arrested those who
were most deeply compromised, and carried out violent reprisals. Houses were
plundered, many of the inhabitants banished, and nine put to death.
During the War of Religion, Rheims sided with the Catholics.
Under the influence of the Guises, five of whom were archbishops of Rheims
(notably Cardinal Charles de Lorraine, the protector of Rabelais and Ronsard,
and founder of the University of Rheims in 1547), the town espoused the cause
of the League and opened its gates to the Due de Mayenne in 1585. It sub-
mitted to Henri IV. only after the battle of Ivry, when the Castle of Mars
Gate (stronghold of the archbishops) was razed to the ground. Henceforth
the archbishops played no political part, and Richelieu put an end to strife
by turning the Guises out of the archi-episcopal see.
In the 17th and 18th centuries the town lived in peace, with alternations
of misery and suffering (caused by plague or famine) and commercial and
industrial prosperity. It was at Rheims that the first French newspaper, the
" Gazette de France," printed by Godard in 1694, appeared.
During the Revolution, Rheims received the new ideas with enthusiasm.
It furnished a great number of volunteers to withstand the invasion, and on
August 14th, 1792, the Legislative Assembly proclaimed that the city " had
deserved well of the country."
Under the Restoration its industry developed. In August, 1830, the people,
who were favourable to the Revolution of July, overturned the cross of the
" Calvaire de la Mission" erected in 1821 by the ultra-Catholic party, and in
its place set up a funeral urn with the inscription, "To the brave men who
died for liberty on the 27th, 28th and 29th days of July, 1830." The population
accepted the monarchy of July, but without enthusiasm.
The Second Empire witnessed a remarkable development of business activity
which, after the momentary stoppage caused by the War of 1870 and the Prus-
sian occupation (see military section), made of Rheims, at the end of the 19th
century, one of the great commercial and industrial cities of France. The
population increased from about 30,000 (in 1792) to 59,000 (in 1865), and to
more than 115,000 in 1912.
When the War of 1914 broke out, the rich and ancient city was still as
La Fontaine had described it:
" No town is dearer to me than Rheims,
The Honour and Glory of our France."
I
' ■ \¥t:\ ><
1 ' i^^f-5-5
RHEIMS, FROM AN OLD ENCRAVING (1622)
MILITARY HISTORY
If the military and commercial situation of Rheims destined it, from early
times, to be a great city, it also exposed it to the greed of ambitious foreigners,
and opened the road to invasion.
During the Hundred Years' War the city was fiercely disputed. On Decem-
ber 1. 1359, Edward III. of England besieged it. On January 11, 1360, a
sortie of the troops and burghers, under Remi Grammaire, compelled him to
raise the siege, in recognition of which feat of arms Charles V. permitted the
"fleur-ile-lys" (emblem of the Royal House of France) to be emblazoned on
the City's coat of arms. Since then the Shield of Rheims has been: In chief
Fiance ancient, in base argent Two, laurel branches in Saltire vert. In 1420
the English were more successful and entered Rheims, whose gates were opened
to them by Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy. Nine years later (July 16,
1429) the Dauphin of France and Joan-of-Arc entered the town, then finally
delivered, by the Dieu-Lumiere Gate (formerly the Gate of St. Nicaise).
During the invasion of 1814, Marshal Marmont's troops retook Rheims on
March 13, after sharp street fighting, and Napoleon entered the city the same
night.
In 1870, after the investment of Metz, Rheims witnessed the departure of
the army formed by MacMahon at Chalons-sur-Marne, for the relief of Marshal
Bazaine. A few days later (September 4) the Prussian troops entered the city
at 3 o'clock in the afternoon by three different gates. On the 6th, the King of
Prussia, accompanied by Bismarck and Von Moltke, made an imposing entry,
and resided for some time at the archi-episcopal palace, in the apartments
reserved for the Kings of France at the time of their consecration. Rheims
was held to ransom, and a number of citizens shot for protesting against the
German yoke, chief among whom was the Abbe Miroy, Cure of Cuchery, whose
tomb (the work of the sculptor Saint Marceaux) is in the northern cemetery.
Others were carried away prisoners to Germany. The Prussian troops evacuated
the town on November 20, 1872.
The Invasion of 1914
(See map, p. 11)
Forty-four years later to a day (September 4, 1914), German advance
troops again entered Rheims, as General Joffre's plans had not provided for
defending the city. However, the Army detachments placed under the com-
mand of General Foch on August 29, and wedged in between the 4th and
5th Armies, stayed the German advance for a few days. On August 30 the
42nd Division from the East, detrained at Rheims and took up positions at
Sault-Saint-Remy and Saint-Loup-en-Champagne on August 31, to the left of
the 9th and 11th Corps.
On September 1, General Foch resisted on the river Retourne but, in the
evening, withdrew to the river Suippe, in conformity with the general orders.
On the 2nd the town was still protected by the 10th Corps (elements of which
occupied the Fort of St. Thierry), by the 42nd Division near Brimont and to
the north of the Aviation ground, and by the 9th and 11th Corps to the east.
On the 3rd, the French retreat towards the Marne became more rapid, and
Rheims was abandoned. On September 5, Prince August Wilhelm of Prussia
entered the town and took up his quarters at the Grand Hotel. The Germans
at once requisitioned 50 tons of meat, 20 tons of vegetables, 100 tons of bread,
50 tons of oats, 15,000 gallons of petrol, besides straw and hay, and insisted
on the immediate payment of a million francs as a guarantee that their require-
ments would be met.
THE TEMPORARY GERMAN OCCUPATION OF SEPT., 1914
German troops in front of the Cathedral. The scaffolding of the latter was set on
fire on Sept. 19th.
This sum was paid in the course of the afternoon, under threats by the
enemy. From the 6th onwards the German soldiers gave themselves up to
plundering. The tobacco warehouse at 21 Rue Payen was ransacked, and more
than 700,000 francs worth of cigars and tobacco stolen. On the following days
pillaging, especially of the food-shops, continued. On the 9th, the Komman-
dantur requisitioned civilians to bury the dead in the Rethel, Epernay and
Montmirail districts. On the 11th, the Crown Prince arrived and took up his
quarters at the Grand Hotel, where he was joined by Prince Henry of Prussia,
brother of the Kaiser. On the morning of the 12th, the Germans, alarmed at
the victorious approach of the French troops from the Marne, arrested the
Mayor (Dr. Langlet), Mgr. Neveux, coadjutor of Rheims, and the Abbe Camus.
They then drew up a list of a hundred hostages and threatened to hang them
at the first attempt at disorder. They also threatened to burn the city, wholly
or partially, and to hang the inhabitants, if any of them molested the German
soldiers. All that day the Germans, instead of organising defences, left the
town in haste, after first pillaging it. In the afternoon the Crown Prince left
the Grand Hotel with his suite. At 5 p.m., after setting fire to the forage
stores, the Kommandantur left Rheims by the Rethel road in drenching rain,
followed by the hundred hostages, who were only released at the level-crossing
at Witry-les-Rheims. When the latter returned to Rheims, a patrol of French
mounted Chasseurs had already entered the town by the suburb of St. Anne.
The next morning, at about 6 o'clock, the French troops with the 6th mounted
Chasseurs at their head, entered Rheims by the Rue de Vesle. At 1 p.m.
General Franchet d'Esperey, commanding the French 5th Army, entered the
city.
The Battles for Rheims 1914-1918
Although evacuated by the Germans, Rheims had yet to remain for nearly
four years under enemy fire. With equal obstinacy the adversaries disputed
the town, the French seeking to disengage it and the Germans to recapture it.
10
On September 12, on the approach of the victorious French Army from
ili< Maine, the Germans entrenched themselves to ihe south-west of the town,
and established a line of resistance passing through Thillois, Ormes, Bezannes
.mil Villers-aux-Noeuds.
In spite of the very unfavourable weather, the 3rd Corps (Gen. Hache^
vigorously engaged the enemy at Thillois. and foxed them to abandon the
position in the evening. The I si Corps (Gen. Deligny), on the right, had
orders to push forward advance-guards into Rheims, but as a matter of fact
they reached the suburb of Vesle. The 10th Corps (Gen. Defforges) attacked
at Puisieulx and forced the enemy across the Vesle.
On the 13th, the left of the 3rd Corps arrived in front of Courcy and Bri-
mont. where the Germans were strongly entrenched. A desperate battle took
place, with the result that Courcy was taken before noon. Loivre likewise fell
into the hands of the French, but the passage of the Aisne Canal was fiercely
disputed. The attack on Brimont failed, in spite of the great valour of the
troops, who sustained heavy losses. Meanwhile, the 1st Corps crossed
Rheims, with orders to debouch at Betheny. Just outside the town they were
met with violent artillery fire, which, however, did not completely check their
advance. La Neuvillette, Pierquin Farm and Betheny were occupied, and the
1st Corps linked up on its left with the 3rd Corps, on the outskirts of Soulain
Woods. The advance continued during the night, and Modelin Farm was
reached by advance-guards. General Deligny took up his headquarters in the
suburb of Vesle. The 10th Corps crossed the Vesle, engaged the enemy at
St. Leonard and reached the railway.
On the 14th, the fighting greatly increased in violence. The 3rd Corps, in
spite of repeated efforts, was unable to advance ; on the left it failed to drive
the enemy from the St. Marie Farm, while on the right it was held up before
Brimont. The 1st Corps was likewise checked; the 1st Division (Gen. Gallet I
attempted unsuccessfully to support General Hache in his attack on Brimont.
The 10th Corps, although strongly engaged towards the Fort of La Pompelle,
made but little progress. Farther away, on the right, the battle extended along
the front of the 9th Army.
On the 15th, at 5.30 a.m., the 5th Army resumed a general offensive.
Fierce fighting took place at St. Marie Farm, to the left of the 3rd Corps, and
also further north, near Hill 100. Despite heavy sacrifices, however, the enemy
held their positions; but, on the right, the 36th Infantry Regiment captured
the Chateau of Brimont at day-break. General Deligny, less fortunate, was
driven out of Soulains Woods, but stood firm at the Champ-de-Courses and
Betheny. The 10th Corps continued to advance slowly, and at certain points
reached the high-road to Suippes.
On the 16th, the 3rd Corps attacked Brimont again, but failed. At the
chateau the situation became more and more critical, by reason of the retreat
of the 1st Corps on the previous day. This Corps had again to face a powerful
enemy counter-offensive, which, however, failed to drive it from the Modelin
Farm and the " Cavaliers de Courcy."
On the 17th, the Germans counter-attacked all along the line. In the
afternoon the 3rd Corps, which stood firm at Godat Farm and Loivre, was else-
where compelled to cross to the west bank of the canal and fall back on
Courcy.
After a heroic defence the isolated garrison of Brimont Castle, weakened
by heavy losses, surrendered during the night, after having spent all its ammu-
nition. The 1st Corps, the greater part of which had left for the region of
11
Berry-au-Bac, held its positions with its last available units. The 10th Corps
extended its front westwards to B'etheny, while one of its regiments, the 2nd
Infantry, occupied La Pompelle Fort.
On the 18th, the enemy increased their efforts against the front held by the
3rd Corps and the reserve units further west. Loivre, which had so far resisted.
fell. The French withdrew to the west of the road to Laon. The situation
was considered critical at this point of the front. The 10th Corps, which had
been withdrawn from the east of Rheims, in favour of another sector, was
slopped on the way and sent for a few days in support of the 3rd Corps.
On the 19th, one of its brigades counter-attacked Courcy Mill. On the
other side, the Moroccan Division (Gen. Humbert), which had relieved the
10th Corps, continued to hold La Pompelle Fort.
Gradually the front became fixed. Desperate, indecisive fighting still took
place, but finally the front stabilised on the line extending from the foot of
the Berru and Nogent-l'Abbesse Hills, along the road from Rheims to Suippes,
on the east, and along the western bank of the Aisne Canal on the north.
S l LoupO
- en-Champagne
Sau!t-
V^deWitry/er/fr//
O berru
3 Viqie de Berru
EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1914
{See pp. 9-11.)
12
The French Offensive of April, 1917
llu- French uflcnsivt'. planned lis t lie then Commander-in-Chief, General
Nivelle. and launched in April, between Soissons and Auberive, aimed at
piercing the German front and disengaging Klieims.
Nurlhwesl of Rheims was the 5th Army (Gen. Ma/ell. of which the 38th
(dips (Gen. de Mondesir) held the immediate approaches to the town, followed
1>\ the 7th Corps (Gen. de Bazelaire), 32ml Gorps (Gen. Passaga) astride the
Visne, and. extending beyond C.iaonne. the 5lh Corps (Gen. de Boissoudy) and
the 1st Corps (Gen. Muteau).
East of Kheims the 4lh Army (Gen. Anthoine) was engaged only during
the second stage of the bailie.
At 6 a.m. on the 16th, in drenching rain, the 5th Army attacked all along
the front in conjunction on the left with the 6th Army (Gen. Mangin), which
undertook to storm the Chemin-des-I)ames. The enemy was expecting the
attack, and had concentrated very large forces and powerful artillery. Despite
their bravery, the French were unable to break through.
In the Rheiins sector, the 32nd Corps advanced three kilometers to the
EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN 1917
north of the Aisne. The 7th Corps crossed the canal at Loivre and captured
Bermericourt in the morning, but was forced to give up part of the conquered
ground in the afternoon, in consequence of a powerful German counter-attack.
In front of Brimont a brigade of the 38th Corps failed to pierce the enemy's
positions.
On the 17th, while the army of General Mazel resisted a violent enemy
counter-attack, General Anthoine attacked from the east of Rheiins to Auberive
with the 8th Corps (Gen. Hely d'Oissel), 17th Corps (Gen. J. B. Dumas),
12th Corps (Gen. Nourrisson). At 4.45 a.m., despite violent squalls of rain
and snow, the French infantry rushed forward and carried the first German
lines along a front of eleven kilometers. The 34th Division (Gen. de Lobit)
carried the Mont Cornillet and Mont Blond hills, which the enemy attempted
in vain to recapture.
On April 18 and 19, and May 4 and 5, the fighting was spasmodic
and finally ceased. On the whole, the French offensive failed, and Rheims
continued to remain under enemy gun-fire.
On the morning of May 27, 1918, the Germans commenced a powerful
offensive between Vauxaillon (on the Chemin-des-Dames) and the Fort of
Brimont. At the beginning of the attack, the French line passed through
Betheny and along the Aisne-Marne Canal. In the evening, after the loss of
13
the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal, Rheims was no longer protected on
the northwest, except by the St. Thierry Heights, which were soon turned.
The Cermans crossed the Vesle at several points, principally at Bazoches and
Fismes, and advanced as far as Muizon.
On May 29, the French line passed through La Neuvillette, Chalons-sur-
Vesle, Muizon and Rosnay. On the 30lh, it extended from Perquin Farm to
Mery-Premecy, via Champigny. On the 31st, Tinqueux and Vrigny fell.
Further to the south the Germans advanced along the valley of the Ardre
towards the Chateau-Thierry — Epernay — Chalons railway, threatening Epernay
(see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne").
However, Rheims still held out. On June 1st the Germans attacked simul-
taneously, without success, to the south-east of the town (between Pommery
Park and La Pompelle Fort), and on the west and south-west (between La
Haubette and Ormes), while the French recaptured Vrigny. On three separate
occasions — in the evening of the 1st, and on June 9 and 18, the enemy's
powerful and costly efforts to recapture this important position broke down.
On the 18th, they delivered a fresh general attack from Vrigny to La Pom-
pelle, gaining a footing in the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-
eastern outskirts of Sillery, but everywhere else they were repulsed. On the
23rd and 29th, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by the Italians, only to lose it
again shortly afterwards. Once again, Rheims had eluded the enemy's grasp.
July 15th to August 9th, 1918
At dawn, on July 15, the Germans began a new offensive from Chateau-
Thierry to La Main de Massiges. It was Ludendorff's much vaunted " Frieden-
slurm " (peace-battle), and was expected by him to prove irresistible and
EXPLANATORY MAP OF THE MILITARY OPERATIONS DESCRIBED ABOVE
14
decisive, lis purpose was to complete the encirclement of Rheims, carry the
lull- surrounding the town, crush the French 4th Army, and reach Chalons-sur-
Vfarne (see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and 'Argonne"). However, this
time, there was no surprise, and the \llies held out victoriously.
To the west, between Dormans and Rheims, Franco-Italian forces held
their ground on the Chatillon-sur-Marne — Cuchery — Marfaux — Bouilly line.
To the east, from La Pompelle to the Argonne. the army of General Gouraud,
after voluntarily abandoning its first line previous to the enemy's attack,
checked and decimated the armies of Von Einem and Von Mudra, on its
second or battle-line. On July 16, 17 and 18, the enemy, now exhausted and
incapable of resuming their general attack, attempted local attacks only.
especially near Beaumont-sur-Vesle, to the north of Prosnes, and in the region
of Trigny and Pourcy, to the west, all of which were repulsed. Once more
Rheims escaped, and was destined from now on, to be gradually freed from
the enemy's grasp. The French counter-offensive began on July 18, on the
Aisne (see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne"), extend-
ing shortly afterwards to the west of Rheims. On the 22nd, the army of
General Berthelot captured St. Euphraise and Bouilly, and on the 23rd reached
a point between Vrigny and the Ardre. A number of German counter-attacks
on July 24, 25 and 30 and August 1 failed to check its advance. On August 2,
Gueux and Thillois were recaptured. On the 4th, the Vesle was reached to
the east of Fismes, and the latter occupied, while a small force crossed to the
north bank of the river. On the 7th, after fierce fighting, in which the French
and Americans advanced foot by foot, the Vesle was crossed to the east of
Bazoches and Braine. On the 9th, Fismette was taken.
September 26th to November 11th, 1918
The disengaging of Rheims, which had begun slowly, was now rapidly
accomplished. Two French offensives completely effected it in a few days —
15
that of September 26 (see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and Argonne") ,
under General Gouraud, and that of September 30, first by General Berthelot
and then by General Guillaumat. The first of these offensives, to the east,
brought about the fall of the Moronvilliers Heights, after outflanking them;
the second, to the west, captured the Saint Thierry Heights, the French troops
crossing the Aisne-Marne Canal from Le Godat to La Neuvillette. This double
manoeuvre forced the Germans, whose communications were threatened, to
beat a hasty retreat on October 5 along a twenty-seven mile front. An
important part of the old German front of 1914, and one of the most fiercely
disputed, collapsed suddenly. The formidable forts of Brimont and Nogent-
l'Abbesse, which had held Rheims under their guns for four years, fell. This
time the deliverance of Rheims was complete and final.
THE DISENGAGING OF KHEIIYIS
The dotted lines show the Allied advance at the date indicated in the middle of
each zone conquered. The line of departure is that of July 18 (18/7). On the
evening of Oct. 6 (6/10)— the upper thick dotted line — the town was completely dis-
engaged. The Allied advance has the appearance of a fan spreading out west of
Kheims until Oct. 5 (5/10), when the Germans were forced to make a deep retreat.
16
The Destruction of Rheims
Being unable t<> capture Rheims, the Germans reduced it to ruins by
bombardment. For lour years (September 4, 1914, to October 5, 1918) they
rained explosive and incendiary shells on it, almost without intermission.
On September 3, 1914, at about 11 a.m., a German aeroplane dropped
bombs on the town. A few of the inhabitants left, as the enemy approached,
but the majority remained. A lady-teacher, sixty years of age, Mile. Fouriaux
(afterwards decorated with the Legion d'Honneur), who had charge of Hos-
pital No. 101 (formerly a high-school for girls), transferred the wounded to
Epernay and then returned on foot to Rheims.
On September 4, at 9.30 a.m., when the enemy advance-guards were
already in the town, and a German officer was making requisitions at the Town
Hall, the bombardment began again. From 9.30 to 10.15 a.m., 176 large
shells fell into the town, three of which tore open the great gallery of modern
paintings in the Museum. Forty-nine civilians were killed and 130 wounded,
several of them mortally.
The Germans, hard pressed by the French, evacuated Rheims on September
12. Two days later, at 9 a.m., they bombarded the town. Their tire was
especially directed against the headquarters of General Franchet d'Esperey,
near the Town Hall. On the following days, firing was resumed at the same
hour. On the 17th, the first fires broke out. Many civilians were killed or
wounded. The vicinity of the Cathedral, which was believed to be specially
aimed at, was among the places that suffered most. To protect the Cathedral,
which the Germans had fitted up on the 12th for the reception of their wounded,
some seventy to eighty German wounded were accommodated on straw in the
nave. The Red Cross flag was displayed on each tower, and notice given to
the enemy.
i\W
GERMAN SHELLS BURSTING IN A STREET OF RHEIMS
17
THE MONT DE PIETE
On the 18th, the bombardment began again at 8.15 a.m. In addition to
the Sub-Prefecture, which was almost entirely destroyed, as were also many
important factories, the Cathedral, in spite of the Red Cross flag, was struck
by 8-in. shells, which damaged the outside sculptures of the lower windows of
the main transept, smashing the 13th and 14th century stained-glass. Splinters
of stone killed a French gendarme and two wounded Germans in the lower
part of the south nave.
On the 19th. the bombardment was intensified. The Town Hall, Museum,
hospitals (including that of the Girls' High School), the south side of the
Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace were all hit. Towards noon, incendiary
shells were rained on the centre of the town.
At about 4 p.m., a shell fired the wooden scaffolding round the north-west
tower which had been under repair since 1913. The fire spread quickly to
the roof, the molten lead from which set fire to the straw in the nave.
THE SAINT FRERES FACTORY IN RUINS (OCT. 1916)
(IS Rue de I'Univetsity)
18
CENTRAL WOOL CONTROL OFFICE IN SEPT., 1915
In spite of a rescue party, who risked their lives in getting out the wounded,
a dozen of the German wounded perished in the flames. The conflagration
spread to the Archbishop's' Palace, from which it was impossible to remove
the tapestries or the prehistoric Roman and Gothic collections. The Protestant
Church, the Offices of the Controller of silk and woolen cloths, and the
Colbert barracks along the eastern boulevards were burnt. Everywhere new
centres caught fire, and nearly thirty-five acres of buildings were destroyed.
On the 20th, the bombardment continued with equal violence, then after a
respite of two days began again. Of the Place Royale and the Rue Colbert
nothing remained but a heap of ruins.
THE PROTESTANT CHURCH IN AUGUST, 1917
{Boulevard Lundy)
19
KINDERCARTEN SCHOOL IN THE BOULEVARD LUNDY
On November 1 the number of civilians killed by shell fire had increased
to 282.
From September 14, 1914, to the beginning of June, 1915, the town never
remained more than four days without being shelled. Up to the end of
November, 1914, the shells rarely went beyond the Cathedral and the theatre,
falling mostly in the suburbs of Ceres and Laon. On November 22, the suburb
of Paris was struck, and from that time onwards there was no security for the
inhabitants in any quarter of the city.
As it would take too long to recount all the bombardments, only the most
terrible ones are here mentioned. On November 26, 1914, the German guns
fired all day, one shell alone killing twenty-three patients in the Hospital for
Incurables. On the night of February 21 and on February 22, 1915, more than
1,500 shells fell in the town, killing twenty civilians, setting on fire a score of
houses and piercing the vaulting of the Cathedral.
RUE CAMBETTA
The Cathedral is seen at the end of the street.
20
On March 8, terrifying fires broke out again. On April 29 and July 20
more than 500 shells, many of them incendiary, were counted. In April, 1916,
more than 1.200 projectiles struck the different quarters of the town in one
day. On August 13, whilst the town was being bombarded, seven German
aeroplanes dropped incendiary bombs, which burnt the Hotel Dieu Hospital.
On October 25, the Germans fired more than 600 shells into Rheims and more
than 1.000 on the 27th.
On April 1, 1917, more than 2.800 shells fell in the town, and on the 4th,
2.121. According to the Official Communique, on the night of the 5th and
on Good Friday, the number of shells was 7,500. Easter-Day was likewise
terrible. On April 15, 19 and 21 the town received large numbers of 8-in.,
THE BOMBARDMENT OF THE CATHEDRAL QUARTER
Part of the striking-points of the shells which fell around the Cathedral, as noted
by the architect of the latter (M. Sainsaulieu). The shells which struck the Cathedral
were far too numerous to allow all of them to be shown on the above plan.
21
12-in. and 15-in. shells. On May 3 the Town Hall and 108 houses were burnt.
On the 4th the fires spread to fifteen neighbouring streets.
From April 8 to the 15th the enemy rained incendiary shells on the town
without respite, and completed their work of destruction, in the course of the
afternoon of the 21st, by burning the centre of the town. Hardly anybody was
left in the latter, except the firemen, who, despite their prodigious activity and
valour, were unable to cope with the flames.
Whole streets, often the finest, were burnt down, more than 700 houses
being destroyed.
When, on October 5, the Germans retreated, the havoc caused by this con-
tinual bombardment was incalculable. Of the town's 14,000 houses, only about
sixty were immediately habitable when the people came back.
In addition to the material losses, there were, unfortunately, numerous
irreparable artistic and archaeological losses.
Life in Bombarded Rheims
Although there were short respites, it may be said that for four years
Rheims led the life of a besieged town, under the fire of the German guns and
howitzers. The enemy increased the calibre of their shells and varied their
modes of bombardment, sometimes firing for a few hours, sometimes all day
the destructions, photocraphed from an aeroplane (Cliche Illustration)
ND- The Cathedral.
PR.— Place Royale.
D. — Hotel dc la Douane.
s< ;, Societe I lenerale Bank.
P.— -General Pos1 Office.
J. — Palais de Justii e.
T. -Theatre.
M. — Museum.
(111. Grand H6t< I.
LO. — Hotel du Lion d'Or.
PA. — Archi-episcopal Palace.
A.- — The Cardinal's House.
EP. — Professional School for Young Ladies.
SP. — Sub-Prefecture.
PG.— Place Godinot.
L. — Lycee.
C. — Colbert Barracks.
•,*sm
THE FIRST AND SECOND STORIES
OF A HOUSE IN THE RUE
D'ANJOU, AFTER THE BURST-
ING OF AN 8-IN. SHELL
THE EFFECT OF AN i
PREMISES OF " LA
-IN. SHELL IN THE
MUTUALITE," IN
THE Rl I. DES ELUS (SEPT. 8, 1915)
lung at the rale of one shell every three min-
utes, or again at night. Sometimes 3-in.
shells would be used, at others "Jack John-
sons" of 8-in., 12-in. and 15-in. calibre; some-
times all four at the same time. Both explo-
sive and incendiary shells were used, while
aeroplane bombs, darts and asphyxiating gas
were resorted to occasionally. Public holidays
were the occasion of the fiercest bombard-
ments, in the hope of increasing the number
ill victims. For instance, the shelling was
particularly murderous on All Saints' Day of
1914, when the eastern and southern ceme-
teries (generally crowded on this day) were
especially aimed at. Easter Monday of 1916
and Good Friday of 1917 were similarly
favoured.
After each check — at Verdun, in Cham-
pagne, on the Somme or wherever it might
be — the Germans revenged themselves on
Rheims. In this way the Cathedral was fired
by incendiary shells after the defeat on the
Marne in 1914. The awful fires of February
22 and March 8, 1915, were the German re-
ply to their set-backs in Champagne and Ar-
gonne. The Hotel Dieu hospital was burnt
down in August, 1916, the day after the
Franco-British attack on the Somme. The
Town Hall was reduced to ashes on May 3,
1917, after the French offensive on the
Champagne hills. For the same rea-
son the bombardments reached their
maximum of intensity in April and
May, 1918, i.e. after the enemy had
lost all hope of crushing the Allies
and taking Paris.
At the beginning of the siege the
population took refuge in the south-
western districts, which were not as
yet bombarded, but on and after No-
vember 22, 1914, when the German
shells reached the suburb of Paris, a
large number of the inhabitants left
the town.
In February, 1915, the exodus be-
gan again, but at the end of May in
that year there were still some 26,000
people in the town. In February,
1917, after twenty-eight months of
bombardment, there remained 17,100
people, or 100,000 fewer than in 1914.
At the beginning of April in that
year, the mayor and later the sub-pre-
fect, requested all those who were not
prevented by their duties to leave the
town. This invitation not having the
desired effect, the military authorities,
23
in view of the increased intensity of the bombardment and the imminence of
the French offensive, announced that they could not guarantee food supplies
for the town, and decided that the civil population must leave not later than
April 10. The evacuation was effected by carts and motor-vehicles to Epernay,
where trains awaited the people.
A part of the inhabitants returned to Rheims after the French offensive of
April-May, but for a few months only, as, in February, 1918, the coming German
offensive compelled the civil population again to leave the town.
During the thirty-one months, during which a considerable portion of the
population persisted in staying in Rheims (September, 1914, to April, 1917),
life and work wen!, on in the bombarded city, the people adapting themselves
courageously to their precarious existence and to the danger. They were
supplied with helmet and gas masks, like the soldiers. Shell and bomb-proof
shelters were organised, and the cellars, with which the city abounds, became
the people's ordinary dwellings. The Town Council, with the exception of a
few members who left on the approach of the enemy, remained at the Town
Hall until it was destroyed, then installed themselves in a cellar, under the
constant chairmanship of the Mayor, Dr. Langlet. The services rendered by
the latter during these trying times were such that the French Premier deco-
rated him personally in November, 1914, with the Croix de la Legion d'Honneur.
The General Post Office had to change its quarters several times; but until
the complete evacuation of the town the postmen went their rounds regularly.
The Courts of Justice were set up in the cellars of the Palais-de-Justice.
The archbishop, Mgr. Lugon, was absent from Rheims in 1914, being retained
in Rome by the Council. As soon as the latter was ended, he returned to
REMOVING THE WORKS OF ART
IN JANUARY, 1918
24
SCHOOL CHILDREN WITH CAS MASKS
Rheims and thereafter, like his co-adjutor, Mgr. Neveux, and the unmobilized
clergy, he remained at his post until the evacuation of April, 1917. The
Cathedral architect, M. Sainsaulieu, who, like Mgr. Lucon, has been made a
Chevalier de Legion d'Honneur, remained constantly at his post, repairing
from day to day, as well as might be, the damage caused to the Cathedral, and
saving the art treasures spared by the German shells.
The firemen, reinforced in March, 1915, by thirty-two of their comrades
from Paris, devoted themselves, at the risk of their lives, to fighting the flames
caused by the bombardments. Unfortunately, their courage and devotion were
often unequal to their task. For instance, twenty-two separate fires occurred
on the night of February 22, 1915. Their task was rendered still more
difficult by the fact that the Germans often fired on the burning buildings to
drive off the men who were trying to save them.
On July 6, 1917, the President of the French Republic fittingly ac-
knowledged the magnificent bravery of the firemen by personally decorating
their flag with the Croix de la Legion d'Honneur. At the same time he con-
ferred this dignity on the city (see p. 2).
After remaining closed for several weeks, the schools re-opened. Until
then, the children had been too much in the streets looking for aluminium
fuses of shells, out of which they made rings, or for scraps of stained-glass
from the broken windows of the Cathedral. The first school, called the
" Maunoury " school, was installed on December 7, 1914, in a wine cellar of
the firm Pommery, Boulevard Henri-Vasnier, near the Rond-Point St.
Nicaise. On January 22, 1915, the '* Joffre " school was opened in the cellars
of Messrs. Mumm, 24 Rue du Champ-de-Mars. Then came the " Albert I."
school, in the cellars of Messrs. Krug, 5 Rue Coquebert, and the " Dubail "
school in those of Messrs. Champion, Place St. Nicaise. In addition to the
underground schools, open-air classes were conducted. The underground
schools, in which the teaching staff, exclusively voluntary, lived permanently,
together with the school-children and their relatives, were situated in the most
exposed and frequently bombarded districts. The " Dubail " school was struck
three times: on March 6, 1915 (by an 8-inch shell), and on March 25 and
October 25, 1916. Luckily there were no victims.
The schools were quite close to the enemy lines, the distance varying from
about two-thirds of a mile to a mile and a half.
25
In 1915 and 1916, the examinations for the " Elementary School Certifi-
cate" took place in July, as usual. In 1915, the ceremony of the Annual
Prize Distribution, which had not taken place at Rheims for ten years, was
restored, the book-prizes for the pupils coming from every corner of France.
The victualling of the town, thanks to the co-operation between the Muni-
CARDINAL LUCON, ARCHBISHOP OF RHEIMS, COMING OUT OF THE CATHEDRAL
26
MILK-WOMAN, WITH HELMET, GOING
HER ROUND
cipal and Military Authorities, was effected with regularity. There was never
any shortage of bread. The butchers' and grocers' shops remained open. The
milk-women and hawkers donned their helmets and continued to push their
carts through the streets. The market-women remained at their stalls. The
nuns of St. Vincent-de-Paul, whose convent had been largely destroyed, en-
sured the service of cheap meals, organised by the Municipality for the poor.
The undaunted inhabitants had their daily paper (" L 'Eclair eur de rEst"),
edited by M. Dramas, a courageous journalist, whose printing-house was early
wrecked by shell-fire, but who continued almost single-handed to issue his
paper.
WINE-CELLAR OF MESSRS, POMMERY USED
AS A DWELLING
27
PANORAMIC VIEW, SEEN FROM ST. NICAISE HILL (p. 102)
A VISIT TO RHEIMS
(pp. 28 to 120)
THE CATHEDRAL ( pp. 28 to 60 )
FIRST ITINERARY (pp. 61 to 94)
The Archi-episcopal Palace, Museum, Church of St. Jacques, Prome-
nades, Town Hall, Place Royale, Musicians' House, Mars Gate, Fau-
bourg Ceres, Church of St. Andre, Palais-de-Justice, etc.
SECOND ITINERARY {pp. 95 to 120)
The Lycee, Abbey of St. Pierre-Ies-Dames, Rue Barbatre, Church of
St. Maurice, Church of St. Remi, Hotel-Dieu Hospital, etc.
GERMAN PRISONERS CLEARINC A STREET (OCT., 1918)
28
The Cathedral
The Cathedral of Rheims, which Charles VIII. declared to be " pre-eminent
among all the churches of the kingdom," and which a local poet in the reign
of Louis XIII. extolled above the seven wonders of the world, is one of the
most beautiful Gothic churches extant.
Few edifices combine such grandeur, simplicity and grace ; still fewer, its
characteristic unity and symmetry.
The work of at least four architects, the building operations extended over
two centuries, yet it has retained rare unity both of plan and style. The whole
is so harmonious as to give the impression of being the effort of a single
master-mind.
Historical Account
The Cathedral stands on the site of former churches, successively erected
between the 5th and 13th centuries. On the night of May 6th, 1210, a terrible
fire destroyed the then existing edifice, together with a portion of the city.
THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE THE WAR
29
Exactly one year later, Archbishop Aubri de Humbert laid the first stone of
a new edifice, which was destined to become the Cathedral of to-day.
Begun in 1211, the building went on without pause for twenty years, after
which there was a slackening, followed by a vigorous resumption in 1299. An-
other pause occurred during the Hundred Years' War. The Cathedral, less
the tower spires provided for in the plans, was finished in 1428. The spires
were not yet built when the great fire of July 24, 1481, entirely destroyed the
roof of the Cathedral, further deferring their construction, which was subse-
quently abandoned.
The funds for this colossal work were furnished partly by the clergy and the
people, partly by Papal Indulgences granted to donors, and by collections in
Christian lands, especially in the ecclesiastical province of Rheims. The won-
derful plans of the Cathedral were long believed to be the work of Robert de
Coucy, whereas the original ones were in fact drawn by Jean d'Orbais, who
began their execution between 1211 and 1231. His work was continued with
wonderful fidelity by Jeande-Loup, from 1231-1247; by Gaucher of Rheims in
1247-1255, Bernard of Soissons from 1255 to 1290, Robert de Coucy until 1311,
and afterwards by Maitre Colard, Gilles le Macon, Jean de Dijon and Colard de
Givry in the course of the 14th and 15th centuries.
H fljl
THE CATHEDRAL AFTER THE FIRE OF SEPT. 19TH, 1914
30
In the IT1I1 and L8th centuries onlj repairs rendered necessary by the wear
of the stone wore elVeeted. In tlie 19th century, beginning in 1845, important
restorations, principally bj \ iollet-le-Duc, were carried out with regularity.
The Cathedral's approximate measurements are 480 feet long (it is the
longest church in France), and l(>0 feet wide at the intersection of the transept.
The vaulting, less lofty than that at Beauvais (156 feet) and Amiens (143 feet),
is 123 feet in height. The lowers are six in number (as in the cathedral at
Laon). of which the four situated at the extremities of the transept have never
had more than one storey. The principal towers are about 266 feet in height,
oi about 60 feet higher than those of Notre-Dame in Paris.
The plan of the Cathedral is in shape a Latin cross, with radiating chapels.
It is built entirely of stone from the neighbourhood of Rheims. Forty pillars
support the vaults, which are further sustained by fifty buttresses. Three great
doorways and eight secondary doors give access to the interior, which is lighted
by a hundred windows and rose-windows; 2.303 figures of all sizes decorate the
exterior and interior.
CATHEDRAL PHOTOCRAPHED FROM AEROPLANE IN 1916
31
The Cathedral During the War
In revenging themselves on Rheims for their disappointments and failures,
the Germans seem to have been particularly determined to destroy the building
which is at once one of the most precious artistic treasures of France and one
of the most ancient evidences of her history. In 1814 the then Allies bom-
barded Rheims but respected the Cathedral. It is true that there were Germans
who found fault with this respectful forbearance. One of them, Johann Joseph
Goeres, author of a voluminous work entitled " Christian Mysticism," dared
to write in April, 1814: "Destroy, reduce to ashes, this Rheims basilica, where
Chlodovic was consecrated, and where ivas born that empire of the Franks,
those turncoat brothers of the noble Germans; burn the Cathedral." In the
course of the recent war the Germans followed the vindictive advice of Goeres,
although, less frank than he, they did not dare, in face of the indignation of
Christendom and of the whole world, boast of their vandalism.
By way of excuse they alleged sometimes errors in firing, sometimes that
the French had established a battery of artillery near the Cathedral and an
observation-post in one of the towers (a projector was installed on the Cathc-
■ • ■
THE PIERCED VAULTING AM) TOWERS OF THE CATHEDRAL IN 1919
32
drill, but on September, 13, 1914, i.e. the day that the French re entered Rheims,
and it remained there only one night).
On November 9, 1914, General Rouquerol declared to the French Govern-
ment, who had demanded an enquiry, that the nearest battery to the Cathedral
was at that time more than 1,200 yards away; that on the day (September
19) the Cathedral was set on fire by the German shells, the nearest French
batteries were still quite close to the spot occupied by the above-mentioned
battery, whose position the French Premier verified personally. The General
concluded that the German artillery could not have made an error of 1,200
yards in firing, but that they had deliberately aimed at the Cathedral.
The Cathedral, though terribly shattered, is still standing. The description
of the edifice (pp. 33 to 60) gives particulars of the damage and destructions
which occurred principally in September, 1914; April, 1917, and July, 1918.
On September 19, 1914, incendiary shells set fire to various portions of
the building. The roof was burnt, but the vaulting escaped injury. The
tambours of the side doors and the statues on the latter were destroyed by
the flames. The 18lh century stalls, consecration carpet of Charles X. and
archi-episcopal throne were likewise burnt. The great rose-window of the
western fagade, together with several other stained-glass windows, were de-
stroyed, as were also the " Angel " steeple and its caryatids above the chevet.
The northern tower was seriously injured by the burning of the scaffolding
around it (see photo, p. 9). The statues were eaten into by the flames and
subsequently crumbled away, some of them being irrecoverably lost.
In 1915 and 1916 the Cathedral was struck a hundred times, but it was
during the bombardments of April 15, 19, and 24, 1917, that it suffered most.
For seven consecutive hours, at the rate of twelve per hour, the Germans fired
12 in., 14-in. and 15-in. shells on the edifice, causing terrible havoc, especially
to the south-western side.
During the terrible bombardments of April, 1918, the Cathedral did not
suffer — for once the Germans seemed to have decided to spare it ; but, un-
fortunately, the truce did not last. In the following months the bombardment
began again, and the ravages increased, especially in the two towers and the
vaulting. However, both vaulting and towers, in spite of their injuries, have
not been irreparably damaged in their vital parts, and are capable of restoration.
That the damage is not more serious is due to the protective measures
taken by the Cathedral architect and by the Department of Historical Monu-
ments. As early as 1915, the doorways of the western fagade were protected
with beams and sand-bags (see photo, p. 25), while the Treasure was removed
and placed in safety, together with the paintings and tapestries.
In 1916 and following years masonry protections were placed around some
of the more valuable statues. The fallen fragments of carvings and sculpture
were carefully collected, with a view to future restoration. In this way the
debris of the head of the beautiful statue of the " Visitation " Group, known
as the " Smile of Rheims," on the left-hand side of the central doorway of the
western fagade, were saved.
At the beginning of 1918, it was found possible to save the remains of the
stained-glass of the windows, and other glass-work still intact — amongst which
was some of the finest in the nave. The salvage was difficult, for scaffolding
would have furnished the Germans with an excuse for further bombardments.
Recourse was had to a small body of Paris firemen and two glaziers who,
in foggy weather, and before daybreak, climbed up to the iron frame-work
of the windows and accomplished their work at great heights with remark-
able courage and skill.
J ^
AERODROME MIU1AIHE
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R H E I M S
SCALE.
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1000 M.
PORTE DE MARS
A.
D-3-4
musicians' HOUSE
B.
C.
D.
D-4
CATHEDRAL
d-4-5
ARCHI-EPISCOPAL PALACE
E.
D-S
CHURCH OF ST. MAURICE
F.
B-5-6
POLICE STATION
G.
D-2
HOTEL DE VILLE
II.
D-4
LAW COURTS
T.
D-4
HOTEL DIEU
K.
E-6
CI'URCH OF ST. REMY
L.
E-6
MUSEUM
M.
D-S
OCTROIS (Tolls)
0.
SUB-PREFECTURE
P.
e-4-5
THEATRE
T.
D-4-5
POPULATION
115,
17S h
ALTITUDE
83 M
CATHEDRAL OF EHEJMS
Han of Cathedral
and
Arcbi-episcopa] Palace
1. Staircase of the Towers.
2. Site of the Labyrinth (p. 53).
3. Main Pulpit (p. 53).
4. Site of " La Rouelle de Saint-
Nicaise " ( Flag-stone with
memorial inscription) < p. 53).
5. Pillar supporting the "Vintage
Scene " (p. 52) .
6. Altar of the Rear Choir (p. 57).
7. 14th century Tombstones (p. 53).
8. Tomb of Cardinal de Lorraine.
9. The Treasure (p. 58).
10. Clock with Automatons (p. 55).
11. Tombstone of Hughes Libergier
(p. 55).
12. Norman Door (p. 45).
13. Great Organ (p. 55).
14. Lady Chapel (p. 55).
L5. Chapel of the Holy Sacrament
(p. 56).
16. Rosary Chapel (p. 57).
17. Roman Mosaic (p. 57).
34
West Facade
(See full views on pp. 28 and 29)
Better than any other, this part of the building reveals the desire for unity
and harmony which guided the various builders of the Cathedral. The door-
way, probably designed by .ban d'Orbais. was very likely not begun till about
1250. by Gaucher, of Rlieims. Hernard of Soissons built the great rose-window
and the facade as far as the Gallery of the Kings. The architects of the 14th
century built the lateral parts forming the first story of the towers, the
Kings' Gallery and the gable. The upper story of the towers was only finished
in the 15th century. Except for slight modifications in detail, the original plan
was respected. The facade, with its full open-work towers and immense rose-
window, demonstrates that the architects knew how to obtain the maximum of
resistance with wonderfully light construction.
The Western Doorway (photo below) comprises three doors flanked by
two full arcades, and surmounted by gables adorned with statues.
Between the gables are pinnacles on small columns (the left-hand ones
have been destroyed). At the foot of the pinnacles are statues of seated
musicians, which recall those on the house in the Rue de Tambour (see p.
80), but which have been partly destroyed.
The splaying of the doors is adorned with great statues backed up against
columns and separated by smaller columns, the capitals of which are con-
nected to a foliate frieze of elegant design. The bases are ornamented with
carved drapery. The tympana of the doors contain window-lights, while five
rows of statues, separated by lines of flowers and foliage, fill up the archings,
which suffered severely in the bombardment of September 19, 1914. About a
dozen subjects were destroyed or spoilt. During the subsequent bombardments,
shell splinters did further damage.
DOORWAY OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE THE WAR
35
Generally the sculptural decoration on the ground-floor dates from the
middle of the 13th century.
In September, 1914, several of the great statues of the lateral splayings
were completely destroyed and the others more or less seriously damaged.
However, subsequent damage was slight, thanks to the protective measures
taken in 1915.
Central Door
The Lavish decoration of the central door suffered mutilations during the
last three centuries. The inscription carved on the lintel dates from 1802 and
replaced carving descriptive of the life of the Virgin, destroyed during the
Revolution. The sculpture on the arches, especially that of the three upper
lines, was partly restored in the 17th and 18th centuries.
The beautiful statues in the splayings of the door represent: to the right
(photo, p. 36), the Annunciation and Visitation (the latter group is striking
by reason of its inspiration from the antique) ; to the left, the Purification
(photo, p. 36).
The Virgin of the Annunciation group was damaged by shell splinters on
September 4, 1914.
CENTRAL DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT BEFORE
the war (Cliche LL.)
36
THE ANNUNCIATION. THE VISITATION.
RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF CENTRAL DOOR.
In the gable, a pretty group representing the Coronation of the Holy
Virgin was injured by the fires of 1914.
Of the two fine statues on the top of the buttresses framing the Central door,
only the right-hand one (Solomon) exists to-day; the other, representing the
Queen of Sheba, was destroyed by a shell in September, 1914, except the
head, which was saved.
LEFT-HAND SPLAYING AND LINTEL OF THE CENTRAL DOOR (Cliche LL.)
37
The Right-Hand Door
See photograph on p. 25
On the lintel, Saint Paul, blind, is being led to Ananias, who restores his
sight and baptizes him.
On the jambs are pretty little figures which have been variously inter-
preted. The majority represent vices and virtues, e.g. on the inner portion:
Courage, in knightly raiment; Cowardice fleeing before a hare; Charity
holding out a purse; Avarice with a cash-box; on the outer portion: Pride
blasted and overthrown with his horse; Sloth, represented as a man seated
with his head resting on his elbows, in a stall; Wisdom seated, holding a book
and a lighted lamp. On the same jambs other figures are supposed to sym-
bolise the seasons: Autumn sitting on a vine-trellis; Winter standing before
a fire-place; Spring in the midst of flowers; Summer with bared chest.
RIGHT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE RIGHT-HAND DOOR
The two ci-ntral figures have been decapitated.
The six statues in the splaying on the right [photo above) represent: the
aged Simeon holding Christ in his arms; John the Baptist, Isaiah, Moses
with the brazen serpent and the tables of the Law ; Abraham about to sacrifice
Isaac; Samuel carrying a lamb (which has been broken). They differ by
their more archaic style from the other sculptures of the lower facade, and
closely resemble those of the central door of the north transept of the Cathedral
of Chartres. Like the latter, they date without doubt from the beginning of
the 13th century. Possibly they belonged to an earlier doorway, or were pre-
pared in advance for a purpose not realised, being finally utilised in the place
where they now stand.
The Last Judgment, in the gable, was severely damaged by shell splinters.
3456^4
38
The Left-Hand Door
This door, on account of t lit* scaffolding which surrounded it, was seriously
damaged by the tires of September, L914 (see p. 17).
On thf Lintel is Saint Paul, thrown from his horse at the gates of Damascus.
On the outside of the jambs, fourteen seated figures meditating, are supposed
li\ some to be embodiments of the arts and sciences, but represent more prob-
ably prophets or teachers. Along the splayings are eleven statues, which have
not definitely been identified.
In the left-hand splaying is Saint Nicaise between two angels. The right-
hand angel, generally known as the " Smile of Rheims," was decapitated on
September 19, 1914. Fortunately, the fragments of the head of this fine statue
were saved.
The sculptures in the archings depict scenes from the Passion, while the
group which adorns the gable represents The Crucifixion.
These archings and gable were greatly damaged by the fires of September
19, 1914, and the bombardments.
LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE WEST FRONT.
The headless angel on the left against the door was known as the " Smile of Rheims."
39
LEFT-HAND SPLAYING OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, BEFORE THE WAR.
St. Nicaisc (between two angels) and St. Clotilda. The angel on the right, known as
the " Smile of Rheims," was decapitated. (See photo, p. 38.) Cliche LL.
GABLE OF THE LEFT-HAND DOOR, WITH CRUCIFIXION.
(Cliche LL.)
10
FIRST STORY OF THE WEST FRONT
The First Story
In the centre is the great rose-window, best seen from the interior of the
nave. The stained-glass is broken. On either side, against the arching which
surmounts it, were two large statues. One of them, David as a youth in
shepherd's garb (also known as the Pilgrim), was destroyed by the bom-
bardments. The other very fine statue is variously said to be Saul, Solomon
and St. James.
The arching which begins above these statues was adorned with small
groups of figures representing scenes from the life of Solomon. Most of them
were destroyed at the same time as the Pilgrim statue.
Above the arching, a gigantic statue (twice restored) represents David
challenging Goliath. The bombardments of 1914 destroyed a similar statue on
the left representing David slaying Goliath ivith a stone from his sling.
The first story of the towers flanking the rose-window is broken by lofty
twin bays crowned with gables. The niches and pinnacles of the buttresses
are identical with those of the nave, but the style of their decoration denotes
a more recent period (early 14th century).
The northern tower was badly damaged by the bombardment of Septem-
ber 19, 1914, which fired the scaffolding around it (see photo, p. 9). Two
of the pinnacled niches surmounting the buttresses wtere decapitated, while
the flames completely disfigured the statues, including that of Christ.
A large calibre shell burst in the southern tower on April 19, 1917, causing
very serious damage.
41
SECOND STORY AND UPPER STORY OF THE TOWERS
The Second Story
The second story comprises a series of niches, surmounted by sharply
pointed gables and adorned with gigantic statues, known as the Kings' Gallery.
The central group, consisting of seven figures, commemorates the Baptism
of Clovis. Clovis, standing in the baptismal font, between Saint Remi, re-
ceiving the Sacred Ampulla, and Clotilda.
The balcony in front of the Baptism of Clovis was formerly called the
Gloria Gallery, as it was the custom for the choir-boys to sing the Gloria there
on Palm Sunday.
The Upper Portion of the Towers
The upper story of the towers, built on an octagonal plan, is flanked with
four open-work turrets, one of which contains stairs leading to the platforms.
The northern tower, badly damaged by the fire of 1914, lost several of the
fine colonnettes of its corner turrets in 1918.
In the same year, the pierced staircase of the southern tower was almost
entirely destroyed.
At the time of the last restorations, the foundations of the spires provided
for in the original plans, but which have never been built, were laid.
In the belfry of the northern tower are two magnificent deep-toned bells.
One of them is modern and was cast at Le Mans, and blessed in 1849 by
Cardinal Gousset. The other, one of the finest bells known, and presented to
the church in 1570 by Cardinal Charles de Lorraine, is the work of the Rheims
metal-founder, Pierre Deschamps.
The scaffolding fire of 1914 reached the belfry, bringing down the bells,
which were broken in the fall.
42
The Lateral Facades and Chevet
The lateral facades of the Cathedral are of rare beauty. Nowhere have
abutments and flying buttresses hern so harmoniously employed as here. They
are not merely supports, but form part of the decorative scheme of the nave,
and ensure the harinom of the whole. Buttresses, finished off with pinnacles,
serve as points ol support for two superimposed flying-buttresses. The oc-
tagonal pinnacles are flanked with four small triangular pyramids and sup-
ported in front by two slender detached columns. Between the latter, under
canopies, angels with outstretched wings carry the instruments of the Passion
and various other emblems (.see photo, p. 49).
Skirt the Cathedral on the left, passing in front of the North Facade {see
below), to reach the Northern Transept.
THE
NORTHERN
TRANSEPT
IN 1919
The Northern Facade and Transept
The transept is pierced with broad bays, whose completion, as in all the
windows of the Cathedral, consists of two twin arches surmounted by a six-
leaved rose. The niches in the buttresses are ornamented with statues believed
by some to represent Kings of France. At any rate, that of the buttress on
the western front of the north-west tower greatly resembles the figure of St.
Louis carved on the doorway of the church of St. Vincent at Carcassonne.
The carvings of the lower windows were either destroyed or damaged on
September 19, 1914, at the same time as the stained-glass. The two towers
which flank the crossings were left unfinished.
Before the fire of 1481, there was a lantern over the intersection of the
transept.
43
)F THE
(ORTHERN
rRANSEPT
£ F I r
The Central Door of the Northern Transept
The sculptural decoration, while rich, is more sober than that of the door-
way of the western fagade. It is commemorative of the glory of the Archbishops
of Rheims.
The statue of the Pontiff with a tiara, backing up to the dividing-pillar, is
supposed to be that of St. Sixtus, first Bishop of Rheims. In the splaying, on
the left, is St. Nicaise holding his head in his hands, between St. Eutropia, an
angel and a figure improbably said to be Clovis.
The pediment was pierced by a shell and scarred with splinters. It is
divided into five tiers, and represent the life of St. Remi and St. Nicaise.
Beginning at the bottom, the figures represent: on the first tier, the be-
heading of St. Nicaise by the Vandals and the Baptism of Clovis by St. Remi ;
on the second, St. Remi, as a child, restores sight to Montanus and, as a
man, exorcises the demons who had set fire to Rheims; on the third, the story
of Job; on the fourth, the restoring to life of a young Toulouse girl, and the
miracle of the cask filled with wine by St. Remi; on the filth, Christ between
two angels.
II
LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT
The dead rise from their graves.
The Left-Hand Door of the Northern Transept
This door, which has long been walled up, is called The Doorway of the
Last Judgment, on account of the carving on the tympanum.
In the upper part, Christ is supported on one side by the Holy Virgin, and
on the other by John the Baptist. Below {two rows) the dead rise from their
graves {photo above). Lower down, on one side are The Virtues, represented
by seated women; on the other, The Vices, mutilated in 1780 on account of
their realism. On the lowest tier, to the left, angels carry souls to Abraham's
bosom; on the right, Satan leads a chain of damned souls to Hell {photo be-
low), amongst whom are a king, a bishop, and a monk.
In the arching are three rows of angels carrying books or blowing trumpets,
and the wise and foolish virgins.
Backing up to the dividing pillar is an exceedingly fine 13th century statue,
which recalls the "Beautiful God" of Amiens Cathedral {see the Michelin
Guide: Amiens Before and During the War) ; Jesus blessing with His right
hand, holds the globe of the world in His left {see photo p. 45).
This statue was decapitated by a shell which struck the doorway in 1918,
also taking off the head of the first statue on the left-hand portion of the
doorway.
LEFT-HAND DOOR OF THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT: THE LAST JUDGMENT
Satan drags a chain of damned Souls to Hell-
45
On the plinth of the dividing pillar is a bas-relief,
remarkable for its delicate carving.
According to local tradition, this plinth was erected
at the expense of a dishonest master-draper, convicted
of selling by false measure.
On the left, the merchant is seen in his shop. In
front of the counter, customers of both sexes look at
the outspread stuffs, while clerks write in books.
On the right, the merchant kneels before a statue of
the Virgin in penance.
Near-by, burgesses talk together and seem to judge
the delinquent's conduct severely.
The six statues against the walls represent the
apostles: on the right, St. John, St. James and St. Paul;
on the left, St. Andrew, St. Peter and St. Bartholomew.
The rose is carved in a voussoir; the uprights are
decorated with statues of Adam and Eve in long tunics, dividing-pillar of
THE LEFT-HAND DOOR
and the arch with twenty-two groups of small figures of the northern
transept
depicting, from left to right, the story of Adam and
Eve, the various tasks to which they and their de-
scendants were condemned, and the story of Cain and
Abel.
Above the rose an open-work gallery contains seven
statues of the prophets. The statues are 13th century, but the gallery was re-
stored in 1846.
The balustrading and triangular gable flanked with pinnacles, which dom-
inate the gallery, date from the beginning of the 16th century, but have been
repaired in recent times. On the gable is a colossal Annunciation; the
Archangel and Mary are under Flamboyant canopies.
The statue of Christ
was decapitated by a
shell.
On the plinth is the
legend of the Master-
draper {see text oppo-
site.)
The Right-Hand Door of the Northern Transept (Norman Door)
This little door formerly connected, by means of a vaulted passage, the
Cathedral with the Cloister (no longer existing) of the Chapter.
Its tympanum is a relic of the Cathedral built by Archbishop Samson. It
depicts, in beautiful Romanesque relief, a majestic Virgin. The archivolt which
frames it, doubtless belonged to a 12th century tomb. At the top of the arch,
angels carry a soul, while on the uprights, clerks officiate at a funeral service.
46
The Chevet
(See photograph of Cathedral, taken from aeroplane, p. 30.)
The Chevet. begun by .lean D'Orbais and finished by Jean Le Loup, was
inaugurated by the Chapter about 1241. It is one of the finest 13th century
chevetS in existence.
It is stayed by two rows of buttresses supporting double flying-buttresses.
Like those of the nave, the buttresses are surmounted with pinnacles, beneath
which niches shelter statues of flying angels.
THE CHEVET BEFORE THE WAR
One of the finest 13th century Chevets.
All around the apse, between the windows of the radial chapels and on
the main buttresses, are statues of angels, some of them of great beauty.
The 13th century clerestory gallery, which surrounds the upper portion of
the apsidal chapels, was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. It was partially destroyed
by the bombardments. On April 19. 1917, three large calibre shells, which
burst on the chevet, destroyed forty to fifty feet of it. At the same time, the
buttress jutting on the centre of the destroyed gallery lost its pinnacle, and
behind, an arch of the flying-buttress. The buttresses between the above-
mentioned one and the corner of the South Transept Tower lost either a
colonnette or their pinnacle with angel statue.
47
The slender spire which, before the War, rose above the chevet, was known
as the Angel Spire, on account of a bronze angel which surmounted it, and
which was removed in 1860 as unsafe. This spire, the work of Colard le
Moine, was built in 1485, after the fire of 1481. Its pierced base with bal-
ustrading was supported by eight leaden caryatids, some of which, in the
popular costume of the Louis XI. period, became deformed in consequence of
the rotting of their oaken core.
The fire of September 19, 1914, caused by the German shells, entirely de-
stroyed the spire and its caryatids.
THE CHEVET IN 1919
The roof with the " Angel Spire " was destroyed.
The bombardment in the spring of the following year further damaged the
gallery, also causing fresh mutilations to the flying buttresses and the pinnacles
of the apse.
A plain stone gallery with blind arcading, which formerly ran round the
chevet on a level with the springing of the roof, was replaced by Viollet-le-
Duc, with pierced battlemented arcading. Part of the original gallery which
surrounded the entire building, level with the roof, still exists on the northern
side.
On October 12, 1914, a shell destroyed about twenty-five feet of the gal-
lery round the chevet, which later was further damaged by another shell.
48
The Lateral Facade and South Transept
This facade and transept {which should be seen from the courtyard of the
Archbishop's Palace) are identical, as a whole, with the northern facade and
transept (see pp. 28 and 42 >.
The gallery at the springing of the roof of the nave was entirely rebuilt in
1878 by Architect Millet, in a style foreign to that of the Cathedral.
Among the statues of the transept buttresses that at the corner of the south-
western tower, bestriding a lion, is thought by some to represent Pepin-the-
Short, and another near him, Charlemagne.
THE LATERAL FA£ADE AND SOUTHERN TRANSEPT IN 1919
The fagade of the transept has no doorway. Above the lower story, the
architectural arrangement is the same as that of the northern transept. At
the base of the rose-window, on each side, are two very fine statues.
On the left, The Christian Religion, symbolised by a crowned woman
with chalice and standard. This statue was destroyed by a German shell in
1918, after being damaged in April, 1917.
On the right, The Synagogue, with eyes bandaged and a crown on one
side, was not seriously damaged.
49
In consequence of the fire of
1481, the gable of the South Tran-
sept was rebuilt at the beginning of
the 16th century by three master-
masons, one of whom, Guichart An-
toine, co-operated later with the
building of Notre-Dame de l'Epine.
(See the Michelin Guide: The
Revigny Pass. ) It was restored
about 1888 in the original style.
The subject sculptured on the pedi-
ment represents the Assumption of
the Virgin.
The Sagittarius which sur-
mounted the gable was destroyed in
1914. It was a modern faithful copy
of the old lead-covered wooden
Sagittarius, which was carved,
gilded and painted about 1503 by the
Rheims sculptor, Jean Bourcamus.
According to tradition, this Sagit-
tarius, which appeared to be shoot-
ing its arrow at the bronze stag of
the archi-episcopal palace, symbol-
ised the rivalry between the Arch-
bishop and the Chapter of the
Cathedral.
cable of the southern transept
in 1914
TIIK Mil Till UN LATERAL FACADE IN 1914
50
fi -«!• &m
i wp: M; ie«h L
REVERSE SIDE OF THE CENTRAL DOOR IN 1914
■S>e complete view on p. 52.
THE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL
The Inner Western Faqade
(See description of the Exterior on pp. 34 to 41.)
This is a master-piece. Its sculptural decoration is as unique, and rich as
that of the outer fagade.
In the tympanum of the central door a sixteen-leaved rose-window, the
stained-glass of which was made shortly before the Revolution, is faced with
three small trefoil rose-windows.
. At the top of the dividing pillar St. Nicaise, headless, is between two
angels and two armed men personifying the barbarians who killed him.
The entire door, as far as the triforium, is framed by seven rows of super-
imposed niches separated by panels of sculptured foliage. The basements are
covered with figured drapery, as on the outside. In each niche, under a
trefoil arcade, is a statue. The subjects represented are, from bottom to top:
51
STATUES ON REVERSE SIDE OF DOORS AFTER FIRE, SEPT., 1914
o/i the right: The Life of John the Baptist; on the left: The Fulfilment of
the Prophecy and The Childhood of Christ.
The first row on the right is known as " The Knight's Communion "; a
priest offers the Host to a knight wearing 13th century armour, and turns his
back on another knight clothed in a leathern Carolingian tunic with iron scales,
and armed with a small round buckler.
Above the door, a gallery with nine openings lights the triforium.
On the highest story, the great rose-window occupies the whole breadth
of the nave. It is the masterpiece of Bernard de Soissons (see p. 40).
In the form of a gigantic flower with twelve petals, each of the latter is
sub-divided by quatrefoils and trefoil archings. Its harmonious gracefulness
and seeming lightness, in spite of the great thickness of its border (about
7 ft.), and mullions (about 2 ft. 6 in.), are very striking.
The stained-glass, which, with the stonework, formed a harmonious whole,
was restored in i lern times. The subject represented was: The Virgin
surrounded by angels, kings and patriarchs.
The fire of 1914 destroyed the stained glass.
The side-doors have only a quatrefoil rose-window (sec pp. 25 and 34),
and their framework of niches consists only of four rows of two niches each.
However, two lines of niches, in which are statues in demi-relief, form the
contour of the arches which frame their top.
The subjects of the sculptures are allied, in the case of each door, to those
of the outer decoration, i.e. " The Life of St. Stephen."
The wooden doors and their tambours were destroyed by the fire of Sep-
tember 19, 1914, which also disfigured or destroyed the statues framing them
(see photos above).
..'
INTERIOR OF THE NAVE IN 1919
The Great Nave
The fire of September 19. 1914, destroyed the framework of the Nave and
its 15th century lead roof. In the following years a number of shells pierced
the vaulting, without, however, damaging its vital parts. It will be possible
to restore it.
It seems to be clearly established that although the first four bays were
built later than the others, the nave as a whole, like that of the Cathedral of
Amiens, was completely finished before 1300 a.d. Vaulted throughout on
diagonal ribs, the nave, which is perfectly regular, has three stories: the low-
est, formed of great arches, rests on massive pillars ; the triforium, formed
of two, four, five, or six arcades, extends round the entire building; the high
twin-bay windows are surmounted with a six-leaved rose-window.
The pillars, which have been likened to a row of antique columns, are
composed of a great cylindrical shaft, reinforced by four smaller engaged
columns, standing on an octagonal base. The pillars which follow the first
bay of the nave and carry one of the
corners of the towers, as also the four
pillars of the transept square, are more
massive.
The capitals of the pillars and of the
columns (see photo opposite) are most
beautifully decorated. The dominating sub-
ject of their decoration is natural foliage
(vine, oak, thistle, ivy, ranunculus, fig-tree).
Occasionally, human or animal figures or
monsters, and scenes from nature, i.e. the
dainty Vintage scene on the capital of
CAPITAL in THE NAVE the sixth pillar on the right of the nave,
53
are interspersed. The ornamenta-
tion of the capitals of six pillars of
the first hays is more elaborate and
more recent in style. These capi-
tals are not. like those of the other
pillars, divided on the four flanking
columns into two equal courses by
an astragal, neither do they include,
like some of the others, crockets,
acanthus leaves and other conven-
tional ornaments of an older and
less realistic style.
The 13th and 14th century
stained-glass of the high windows
represents, on two superimposed
lines, figures of kings of France
and archbishops of Rheims. Some
of the glass was broken, but the
finest was saved.
In the third and fourth bays
there was formerly a square Laby-
rinth, flanked at the corners by
polygonal compartments. In the in-
terior, a line of white tiles bordered
with black stones ran from one side,
and after complicated windings
reached a central compartment. At
the corners of the compartments
were figures of the four first archi-
tects of the Cathedral: Jean d'Or-
bais, Jean le Loup, Gaucher of
Rheims and Bernard of Soissons.
The central figure is probably that
of Archbishop Aubri de Humbert,
who laid the first stone of the edi-
fice. This Labyrinth, the drawings
of which revealed the names of the
builders of the Cathedral, was de-
stroyed in 1778 by the Chapter, to
prevent the children playing there.
Between the Labyrinth and the
Choir are about twenty 14th cen-
tury tombstones.
The great pulpit set up against
the fifth left-hand pillar was made,
in the time of Louis XV., by a
Rheims artist (Blondel). Il comes
from the "Id church of St. Pierre-
le \ ieil.
In the sixth bay, jusl before
rjk/iA
M
i
I II
1
ill!
>£
ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1914
In the foreground on the right: Corner of
the Southern Transept.
ROOF OF THE NAVE IN 1919
In the foreground, on the right: Corner of
the Southern Transept
54
the entrance to the choir, the spot where St. Nicaise was beheaded, on the
threshold of his church. «;h formerly indicated by a small circular chapel
known as La Rouelle de St. Nicaise. The tiny building was replaced by a
memorial inscription on the flagstone, supposed to have been stained with the
blood of the martyr.
The Aisles of the Naves
The windows of the Aisles are similar to the lofty windows of the nave.
The walls were formerly hunt; with valuable tapestries, which were taken
down and evacuated by the Historical Monuments Department at the outbreak
of the War. The two oldest, dating hack to about 1440, and known as the
tapestries of the fort roi-Clovis, were presented by Cardinal Charles de Lor-
raine, and depict the historj of Clovis. Those of the Renaissance, given in
1530 by Archbishop Robert de Lenoncourt, who caused himself to be por-
trayed kneeling in the picture of the Birth of Christ, depict the Life of the
] irgin. The most modern, presented in 1640 by Archbishop Henri de Lor-
raine and worked by the Fleming, Daniel Pepersack, represent Jesus at the
Marriage at (.una in Galilee and Jesus among the Doctors.
At the foot of the walls, three stone steps serve as seats.
TAPESTRIES IN THE SOUTHERN SIDE AISLE, BEFORE THE WAR
55
The Interior of the Northern Transept
(See plan, p. 33, and the Exterior, p. 42)
The inner facade is partially
hidden by the great organ, built
about 1487 and transformed several
times since then. Of the original
organ the loft only remains, the
Gothic balustrading of which is
pierced with Flamboyant arcading.
The facade originally consisted
of three lofty bays with lancet-
shaped windows surmounted by a
gallery lighted by three rose-
windows of six lobes each and one
of twelve lobes. The subsequent
addition of a doorway about the
middle of the 13th century, caused
the partial suppression of the bays,
of which the transformed summits
alone remain.
Almost all the high windows
of the transept contained 13th cen-
tury grisaille glass, which was dam-
aged or broken by the bombard-
ments, as was also the 13th cen-
tury stained glass of the great rose-
window (repaired in 1869), which
represented The Story of the Crea-
tion and The Fall of Adam.
The reverse side of the Central Door is bare, except the dividing pillar,
the statue of which is hidden by the 18th century wooden tambour.
The small western side-door, which formerly communicated with the
cloister of the Chapter, is entirely covered with 18th century woodwork.
The adjoining bay, closed in by a beautiful 13th century wrought-iron rail-
ing, is the old chartulary or muniment room of the Chapter. Near the railing,
in the corner of the transept, is a clock with automatons, which come out
when the hours strike. Its woodwork is 14th and 15th century and its works
17th and 18th century.
To the right of the door of the organ stair, a tombstone to Hugues
Libergier was set up against the wall. He was the architect who, in 1231,
commenced the abbatial church of St. Nicaise. The tombstone has been
in the Cathedral since 1800. The altar in the Lady-Chapel, surmounted with
a statue by Frangois Ladatte (17421, replaced a Gothic altar-screen destroyed
in 1739.
The picture The Washing of the Disciples Feet is by Jerome
Muziano.
On the western walls of the transept is a fine tapestry, the pendant
of which is in the south transept. These two great tapestries,
made at the Gobelins, after cartoons by Raphael, represent the life
of St. Paul. They were removed in 1914, at the same time as those in the
aisles.
THE NORTHERN TRANSEPT (see p. 33)
THE VAULTING OF THE CHOIR FELL IN ON THE HIGH ALTAR
The photo on p. 31 shows the collapse, seen from above.
The Choir
(See the Chevet, p. 46)
The ambulatory with its radiating chapels is of incomparable beauty.
Excepting the larger central chapel, known as the Chapel of the Holy
Sacrament, which is nine-sided, each chapel has seven sides rising from a
circular floor.
In each chapel, three windows similar to those of the nave, light the
three hindmost walls. Blind windows imitate the true ones on the side walls.
At the base of the windows a narrow gallery, passing through the pillars,
continues all along the side-aisles of the transept and nave — a peculiarity in
Champagne architecture.
The 13th century stained glass of the high windows was destroyed by
the bombardment of September 19, 1914.
In \pril. 1917, part of the vaulting fell in on the High Altar (photo above).
The costly marble High Altar was erected in 1747 by Canon Godinot.
who spent considerable sums in making alterations to the Cathedral, not all
of which were happy. Its six chandeliers date from the consecration of
Charles X.
57
The High Altar of the rear choir dates from 1764 and came from the
Church of St. Nicaise. On either side of this altar are two 14th century
tumulary stones. Behind is the tomb of Cardinal de Lorraine.
The small pulpit of the rear choir, the medallions of which depict the
life of St. Theresa, dates from 1678. It is a gift of the widow of M. Pommery
( photo belou > .
Twenty-two archbishops of Rheims were buried under the choir pavement.
Their tombstones were removed in 1747. The present flag-stones came from
the old church of St. Nicaise.
THE SMALL
PULPIT IN
THE REAR
CHOIR
The archbishop's throne, by Viollet-le-Duc, was destroyed by the fire of
1914, together with the 18th century stalls.
The railings ( 1826-1832 ) replaced, not very happily, an ancient stone
rood-loft destroyed in 1761.
The Interior of the Southern Transept
(See plan, p. 33, and the Exterior, p. 47)
A gap was made in the vaulting by the bombardment of April 19, 1917.
The arrangement of the inner facade is similar to that of the northern
transept, except that the three high bays with lancet windows, which are
partially hidden in the northern transept, are here entirely visible.
The stained-glass of the rose-window, destroyed by a hurricane in 1580,
was replaced in 1581 by the Rheims artist Nicolas Derode. It represents the
Eternal Father surrounded by the twelve apostles.
In the Rosary Chapel is a Renaissance altar-screen (1541), attributed to
the Rheims sculptor Pierre Jacques. The general scheme represents The
(lend body of Christ on the knees of the Virgin, and above, Christ coming forth
from the sepulchre. It was a gift of Canon Paul Grandraoul, who is shown
on his knees before Mary Magdalene.
The Roman mosaic work in the centre of the chapel was discovered in
the courtyard of the archbishop's palace in 1849. Among the most remarkable
scenes are: Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene, attributed to Titian; Christ
with tin- angels, by Thaddeo Zuccaro; The Nativity, attributed to Tintoret;
Manna in the Desert, attributed to Nicolas Poussin.
58
st. remi's chalice (Cliche LL.)
The Cathedral Treasure
This is kept in a sacristy built by Viollet-le-Duc, which is reached through
a plain door in the southern facade of the transept.
The treasure, which is very rich in precious reliquaries, chalices, and
other pieces of goldsmith's work, was saved from the fire of September 19,
1914, by the Cure of the Cathedral and one of his abbes. After being tem-
porarily placed in the house of the Cardinal, it was evacuated in 1915, at the
order of the Historical Monuments Department.
Among the best known of these art treasures are the Chalice of St. Remi
and St. Ursula's Skiff.
The Chalice of St. Remi, with its gold filagree work, six rows of chasing,
and precious stones set in a collier, is a remarkable work of art. It was in
this chalice that, by special privilege, the kings of France communicated in
wine at the conclusion of their consecration. Tradition has it that the gold
55
m
st. Ursula's skiff (Cliche LL.)
of which it is made was that of the Soissons Vase, whereas in reality it is
12th century. Confiscated in 1793 and deposited in the Bibliotheque Rationale,
it was restored to tire Cathedral by Napoleon III.
St. Ursula's Skiff is a reliquary given by Henri III. It represents a ship
carved out of cornelian, floating on a sea of enamel. The ship, whose mast
bears the royal crown, is adorned with the escutcheons of France and Poland,
and contains eleven small figures. That of St. Ursula is said to be the portrait
of the Queen of France.
Amongst the other remarkable works of art in the Treasure are the
following: the reliquaries of Archbishop Samson, St. Sixtus (12th century),
St. Peter and St. Paul (14th century), and the Holy Sepulchre (16th century);
a monstrance of gilt copper (13th century) ; a liturgical comb of ivory, said to
have belonged to St. Bernard (12th century) ; a rock-crystal cross, which
formerly belonged to Cardinal de Lorraine; or frays embroidered with silver
thread (13th century); the credence and oil vessels of Abbot de la Salle; a
fragment of a carved wood crozier (incorrectly said to be the crozier of
60
B^BB
■1 v ^ 8v..
■ v ■
■Siiiinii J 1 ■
V ' - ~\ >V '" "-■ ft k- ' f' u * 5
v -'if
V . *
it. v
Til
' fifr
CASKET OF THE SACRED AMPULLA {Cliche LL.)
St. Gibrien), two other fragments of which are in the Town Museum (12th
century) ; the vases, utejisils, and sacred ornaments which were used at the
consecration of Charles X.; the reliquary of the Sacred Ampulla, designed
by Lafitte for the consecration of Charles X. The original Sacred Ampulla
was broken in 1793. The present one, which has only served for the con-
secration of Charles X., is a replica said to have been made with the few
drops of balsam of the Clovis Ampulla, which pious hands saved from the
broken fragments of the sacred vessel.
FRAGMENTS SAVED FROM THE RUINS (Cliche LL.)
6]
FIRST ITINERARY FOR VISITING RHEIMS
Starting-point: Place du Parvis Notre-Dame
1. The Archbishop's Palace (p. 63).
2. The Theatre (p. 68).
3. The House of Levesque de Pouilly
(p. 68).
4. The Stores: Galeries Remoises
(p. 73).
5. The Maison Fossier (p. 7."> i .
6. The House of .1. P>. de la Salle
(p. 75).
7. The House of the Enfi I'Or
(p. 75).
8. The Statue of Louis XV. (p. 79).
9. The Musicians' House (p. 80).
10. The House of De Muire (p. 83).
11. The House of Le Vergeur (p. 85).
12. A 16th Century House (p. 86).
13. The General Post Office and
Chamber of Commerce (p. 87).
14. The Cloister of the Franciscan
Friars (|». 90).
15. The House of Thiret de Prain
(p. 89).
16. The House of de la Pourcelette
(p. 92).
62
REMOVING THE STATUE OF JOAN-OF-ARC
IN MAY, 1918
Place du Parvis
The Place du Parvis (photo below) is in front of the main fagade of the
Cathedral. The shells made enormous craters there.
In the centre of the square stands an equestrian statue of Joan-of-Arc,
by Paul Dubois, of which there is a replica in the Place St. Augustin in Paris.
It was removed in May, 1918, by the Historical Monuments Department (photo
above) .
THE PLACE DU PARVIS
On the right: The Law Courts. In the centre: The Theatre. On the left: The Grand
Hotel. In centre of Square: Statue of Joan-of-Arc.
63
Looking towards the Cathedral, the
tourist will see on the right the ruins
of the Hotel du Lion d'Or and' of the
Hotel de la Maison Rouge.
The latter was completely destroyed.
Above the door was the inscription :
"In the year 1429, at the consecration of
Charles VII., in this hostelry — then called
the ' Striped Ass ' — the father and
mother of Jeanne d'Arcq were lodged at
the expense of the Municipality." In
reality only the father of Joan-of-Arc
lodged there.
It was at the Hotel du Lion d'Or
{photo opposite) and at the Grand Hotel
(No. 4 in the Rue Libergier, which opens
out in front of the statue of Joan-of-Arc I
that the Field-Marshal French stayed
in August, 1914, and later General von
Zuchow, commanding the Saxon troops
which entered Rheims on September 4,
1914.
On the right of the Cathedral are
the ruins of the Archbishop's Palace
(see plan, p. 33). A general view of them
is seen in the photograph on p. 48.
INNER COURTYARD OF THE LION
d'or hotel {Cliche A.S.)
The Archbishop's Palace
Of the three buildings which surrounded every Cathedral in the Middle
Ages — the bishop's palace, the cloister of the canons, and the house set apart
for the sick and poor ( Hotel-Dieu )-— only the archbishop's palace existed at
Rheims in 1914. It extended all along the south lateral facade of the
Cathedral, on the site of the ancient abode of St. Nicaise, which had replaced
a Roman palace. Of the ancient building erected by the successors of
St. Nicaise down to the 13th century, there remained only the graceful two-
storied chapel, doubtless contemporary with the chevet of the Cathedral.
The round entrance tower, known as Eon's tower (from the name of the
heretic who was imprisoned there in the 12th century), and the great bronze
stag placed in the middle of the courtyard by Archbishop Samson in the
11th century, still existed in the 17th century, but about that time the one
was demolished and the other melted down. This stag, into which on feast-
days wine was poured, which flowed out again by the mouth, was a beautiful
specimen of the art of the old metal-founders of Rheims.
The archbishop's palace and most of its rich collections were burnt in the
fire of September 19, 1914. Of the palace proper there remains only the great
chimney-piece of the Salle du Tau, on which the Latin motto, " Good faith pre-
served makes rich," is inscribed (see p. 64), the very opposite of the German
'' scrap of paper " theory.
The Archeveche: The buildings which lined the courtyard were of dif-
ferent periods. The wing abutting on the entrance-gate was 19th century,
while the correct but heavy and dull southern fagade was rebuilt in the
17th century by Archbishop Maurice Le Tellier, from the plans of Robert
de Cotte.
64
THE SALLE DU TAU, BEFORE THE WAK
The Salle du Tau (or Kings' Hall)
(See plan, p. 33)
At the bottom of the courtyard there used to be a large late 15th and
early 16th century hall, access to which was gained by a horse-shoe stair with
late 17th century wrought-iron hand-rail.
A small porch-like structure at the top of the stair was an unfortunate
addition of 1825.
The hall was known as the Salle du Tau, in memory of the ancient palace
which was shaped like the Greek letter Tav, or the Kings' Hall, on account
of the portraits of the Kings consecrated at Rheims, received in 1825.
Built by the Cardinal Archbishop Guillaume Brigonnet between 1497 and
1507, it comprised two stories.
THE SALLE DU TAU IN 1918
Behind the ruined Hail arc seen the Southern Transept
and Chevet of the Cathedral.
65
The upper hall, in which the
royal banquet was served at the
consecrations, became the Stock
Exchange at the beginning of the
19th century. It was disfigured by
poor paintings and false Gothic
ornamentation at the time of the
consecration of Charles X.
The walls were hung with four
admirable tapestries by Pepersack
and several others given by Robert
de Lenoncourt.
The vast chimney-piece with
the Brigonnet and Church of
Rheims Arms is all that the fire of
1914 spared of the ancient decora-
tion. It is visible in the photo-
graphs on page 64, at the bottom
of the hall.
The lower hall, with its Gothic
arching, was as large as the upper
one. The capitals of the prismatic
pillars and the key-stones of the
arches were adorned with escut-
cheons, fleur-de-lys, flowers and
crockets.
ENTRANCE TO THE SALLE DU TAU
(or kings' hall) (see plan, p. 33)
The Archi-episcopal Chapel
(See plan, p. 33)
This was without doubt the work
of Jean d'Orbais, the first architect
of the Cathedral. It resembled the
latter in many respects.
With its seven-sided apse, four-bay
nave and lancet-shaped windows with-
out rubber-work, it was remarkably
slender and graceful.
Its finest ornament was the 13th
century bas-relief, The Adoration of
the Magi, in the tympanum of the
entrance door.
The white marble inner portico
of the door dated from the Restora-
tion. The other, formed of in-laid
wood panels, was adorned with five
16th or early ] 7th century painted
figures.
The lower chapel, partly subter-
ranean, was fitted up as a lapidary
museum in 1865 and 1896.
- £ %
nm
yt-%&
ENTRANCE TO THE ARCHI-EPISCOPAL
chapel (see plan, p. 33)
66
THE ROYAL
APARTMENTS
IN THE
\Ki HBISHOP'S
PAI.ACE J]
mm
\
V~
01*.
pas^'TEx.
ft 1
The Royal Apartments
From the Kings' Hall, access was obtained to five royal saloons
with windows looking on the gardens and adorned with portraits of arch-
bishops.
It was in the archbishop's palace that the Kings stayed at the time of
their consecration or when passing through Rheims. Henry IV. lived there
during his two sojourns at Rheims. He washed the feet of the poor on Holy
Thursday in the great hall and listened to the sermon of Father Cotton.
Louis XIII. and Richelieu stayed there in 1641, Louis XIV. in 1680, Peter the
Great in 1717, Louis XV. in 1722 and 1744, the Queen in 1765, Louis XVI.
and Marie Antoinette in 1774, and Charles X. in 1825. From year VI. (Revolu-
tion Calendar) to 1824 it was occupied by the tribunals. The archbishops
formerly held many Councils and Synods there, but lived there only rarely.
In the Middle Ages they preferred living in their fortified castle of Porte Mars
(see p. 6). In the 17th and 18th centuries they lived mostly outside
Rheims.
After visiting the ruins of the Archbishop's Palace return to the Place du
Parvis. Take the Rue Libergier, opposite the Cathedral, turning into the first
street on the right (Rue Chanzy). The Museum is soon reached (see Itinerary,
p. 61).
The Museum, formerly The Grand Seminaire
This fine 18th century building was erected by Nicholas Bonhomme in
1743-1752. The carved entrance-door and terraced central pavilion, bordered
with a fine balustrade (damaged by shell splinters), are the remains of the
ancient Abbey of St. Denis, the church of which was destroyed at the time
of the Revolution. The right wing was rebuilt in the 19th century, by order
of Cardinal Thomas Gousset. The ground-floor of the left wing is old, but
67
THE ENTRANCE
TO THE COURT-
YARD OF THE
OLD GRAND
SEMINAIRE
(lSth century)
im^piN$
the other floors are modern. These buildings were comparatively little dam-
aged by the bombardments.
Successively occupied since 1790 by the District Council, a free secondary
school, and by the Russians in 1814-1815, the buildings were handed over to
the Grand Seminaire in 1822. Since the separation of the Church and Stale
in 1905, they have been fitted up as a Museum.
The Museum was struck at the beginning of the bombardment on Sep-
tember 4, 1914, several pictures in the Modern Gallery being destroyed. Later,
it was again hit by shells, but the greater part of the collections had already
been removed to a place of safety.
THE OLD CRAND SEMINAIRE (MUSEUM)
68
TIIK HI D l N
WHICH
NAPih i ON
si.F.rT in 1814
i hi ruined
house at No. 18
Rue de Vesle)
Continue along the Rue Chanzy, which skirts the Theatre (1873), of which
only the walls remain. Take the Rue de Vesle (first street on the left. See
Itinerary, p. 61).
Among the ruins of this street, in the yard of No. 18 on the left, is a building
of which only the ground-floor and front with large windows and spacious
dormers remain.
It was there that Napoleon I. slept after his return to Rheims. His room
had been preserved exactly as it was in 1814 (see p. 8).
At No. 27 are vestiges of the old Hotel Levesque de Pouilly. Inside the
court there was a 16th century house, the residence of a family which furnished
Rheims with some remarkable administrators, chief among whom was
Levesque de Pouilly, •'lieutenant of the inhabitants.'' Among the celebrated
guests received by him were Voltaire and Madame du Chatelet (1749). In a
THE PARIS GATE
69
THE VAULTING AND BELFRY OF THE CHURCH OF
ST. JACQUES. (Cliche LL.)
letter to him. Lord Bolingbroke wrote: "/ know but three men ivho are ivorthy
of governing the nation: You, Pope and myself."
On the right, between Nos. 44 and 46. is tne Rue St. Jacques.
Folloiv the Rue de Vesle to the end, where the Paris Gate stands, about
1 km. from the entrance to the Rue St. Jacques.
This Gate replaced the Vesle Gate which formerly abutted on the river.
In consequence of the growth of the city it was built in the faubourg about
1845. Its beautiful wrought-iron work (photo opposite), by the local master-
locksmiths Lecoq and Revel, was erected by the City in 1774, at the time of
the consecration of Louis XVI.
From the Paris Gate, return by the Rue de Vesle to the Rue St. Jacques, on
the right of which stands the Church of St. Jacques.
The Church of St. Jacques, whose fine tower contributed to the charm
of the general appearance of the city, was destroyed by the bombardments
of 1918. Begun in the 12th century, it was finished in the 16th. Before the
war, it was the only parish church in Rheims which had been preserved intact.
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF
ST. Jacques (Cliche LL.)
70
~ -_
r
THE PLACE DROUET D ERLON, BEFORE THE WAR
On the right: Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques.
The Rue St. Jacques leads to the long Place Drouet d'Erlon, which was
much damaged hy the bombardments of 1918 (photo opposite).
Formerly known as Place de la Couture, this square, like the old streets
with picturesque names: Rue des T fillers, Rue du Clou-dans-le-Fer, Rue de la
Belle Image, Rue de la Grosse-Ecritoire, Rue du Cadran St. Pierre, formed part
of the Quartier des Loges, built in the 12th century by Cardinal Guillaume-aux-
blanches-mains for the wood and iron workers. The house-fronts above the
first storey rested mostly on wooden pillars, leaving recesses or covered galleries
on the ground floor.
In the centre of the square stood a statue of Marshal Drouet d'Erlon,
afterwards removed to the crossing of the Boulevards Gerbert and Victor Hugo,
and replaced by a monumental fountain, the gift of M. Sube.
Follow the Place Drouet d'Erlon to the Boulevard de la Republique, which
skirts The Promenades.
THE PLACE DROUET D ERLON, AFTER THE WAR
The Belfry of the Church of St. Jacques no longer exists.
71
THE SUBE FOUNTAIN, IN THE PLACE DROUET D ERLON
Seen from the Rue Bnirette tin ruins).
The Promenades, greatly damaged by the war, have sometimes been
wrongly attributed to Le Notre. Their designer was a Rheims gardener, Jean
le Roux. Commenced in 1731, they were finished and extended in 1787. They
were formerly reached by the Gates of Mars and Vesles, but preferably by
the Promenade Gate specially opened in the ramparts in 1740 and inaugurated
by Louis XV. in 1744, on his return from Flanders. The Promenades were
first called Cours Le Pelletier (the name of the Intendant of Champagne, who
approved the plans), then Cours Royal, after the passage of Louis XV. They
were encroached upon by the railway station, built in 1860.
In the centre of the Promenades, opposite the station, in the Square Colbert,
laid out by the landscape gardener Vare in I860, is a statue of Colbert.
Take the Rue Thiers, which begins at the Square Colbert and leads to the
H6tel-de-Ville.
THE SQUARE COLBERT IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE " PROMENADES."
The Entrance to the Station is just opposite this " Square."
72
THE TOWN HALL IN 1918
The H6tel-de-Ville
This building, which was destroyed by shell-fire on May 13, 1917, was
similar in many respects to the old H6tel-de-Ville in Paris, burnt in 1871.
Commenced in 1627, from plans by the Rheims architect, Jean Bonhomme,
it was completed in stages, at long intervals. Only the central pavilion and the
left-hand portion were 17th century.
The building was a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the Louis
XIII. period. Seventy-eight columns, Doric on the ground-floor and Corinthian
on the first story, framed the windows of the facade, whose bases on the first
floor carried trophies in bas-relief and a graceful frieze. The niches in the
central portico were empty, but the pediment on twisted columns enclosed an
equestrian statue of Louis XIII.
In the interior, in the great vestibule, a staircase with a remarkable wrought-
iron balustrade led to the City Library, which was destroyed by the fire ol
1917 {photo p. 73).
On the right, the room where the Municipal Council meetings were held,
contained rich panelling alternated with paintings by Lamatte, commemorating
episodes in the history of Rheims. On the left, the mayor's office contained
magnificent Louis XVI. wood-work.
On the other side of the courtyard, in the centre of which is a statue of
"' La Vigne," by St. Marceaux, was the great marriage-hall, containing a Gallo-
Roman mosaic, framed with rosettes and an interlaced border, representing a
gladiatorial fight.
A number of the pictures and works of art in the Hotel-de-Ville were saved
by the firemen and soldiers. The mosaic in the marriage-hall was protected by
sand-bags and is intact.
In the Place de I 'Hotel-de-Ville, between the Rue Thiers and the Banque de
France, are two small streets : the Rue Salin and the Rue de Pouilly.
73
THE GRAND
STAIRCASE
OF THE
TOWN HALL
At No. 5 of the Rue Salin. the old 17th century Hotel Coquebert, which was
destroyed by the shells, used to be the headquarters of the Society of Friends
of Old Rheims. Several of the illustrations in this Guide are taken from the
collections of this Society.
In the Rue de Pouilly, close to the Hotel-de-Ville, are the ruins of the
Galeries Remoises stores. These shops were partly housed in a Gothic building,
of which only a few chimney-stacks remain (see chimney in photo below).
Opposite the Hotel-de-l ille take the Rue Colbert to the Place des Marches.
Till. HI i; COLBERT, BETWEEN THE TOWN HALL
AND THE MARKET-PLACE
:i
RUINS IN THE MARKET-PLACE
Seen from the Rue de Tambour. The " Maison de I'Enfant d'Or" is among the
ruined houses seen in the middle (see pp. 75 to 77). The "Hotel de la Salle" and
"Maison Fossier " (p. 76), on the right-hand side of the Square, are not visible in
in the above photograph.
The Place des Marches
Built on the site of the ancient forum, the Market Square, before the war,
still contained several remarkable 15th century wooden houses. Unfortunately,
they were destroyed by the terrible bombardment of May 8-15, 1918, together
with the Square.
THE ' HOTEL DE LA SALLE
On the left : the Carriage Entrance -with Caryatids : Adam and Eve.
75
THE COURTYARD
OF THE " HOTEL
DE LA SALLE "
The graceful
turret has
partially
collapsed
After turning to the right, on leaving the Rue Colbert, and quite close to the
Square, at No. 4 in the Rue de VArbalete, is the house, dating from the middle
of the 16th century, where J. B. de la Salle was born.
Although this house suffered from the bombardments of 1918, its front is
practically intact. It is the finest Renaissance front in Rheims, after that of
Le Vergeur's House {see p. 85).
The carriage entrance is flanked with two life-size caryatids, popularly called
Adam and Eve, on account of their nudity. Along the first story runs a broad
frieze ornamentated with trophies of arms and a shield of unknown significance.
Between two windows of this story a niche, resting on a console, is crowned
with a canopy. The shops on the ground-floor somewhat spoilt the general
look of the building. The interior of the house was less interesting than the
front.
In the courtyard is a strikingly graceful three-story turret (photo above),
one side of which has collapsed.
Among the wooden houses destroyed by the bombardments^ of 1918 ^ in
the Place des Marches, the following must be mentioned: the Maison Fossier
(see p. 76), which stood in the Square at the right-hand corner of the Rue de
l'Arbalete, and especially the Maison de 1'Enfant d'Or (sometimes wrongly
called the House of Jacques Callou), which stood near the Rue des Elus.
The latter house took its name from an old sign representing the g'.lt figure
of a sleeping child. Hence, punningly, the name Golden or Sleeping
Child.
In spite of alterations, this house (photo, p. 77), with its pen' '.ouse roof,
two overhanging storeys, windows crowned with finials, and sculptural decora-
tion (see carved console, p. 77), was a well-preserved specimen of 15th century
architecture.
From the Place des Marches, follow the Rue Colbert to the Place Royale.
76
BEFORE
[•HE \\ \ K
See text, page 75.
AFTER
THE WAR
THE MAISON FOSSIER BEFORE AND AFTER THE WAR
See Itinerary, p. 61 (No. 5 of Explanatory Notes).
RUINS OF THE MAISON DE L ENFANT D OR
Second house on the left, after the Rue des Elus. (See p. 77).
/■ •)_
JttllU
A II I
flHIIHI
I
77
THIS VERY
CURIOUS 15th
CENTURY HOUSE
STOOD IN THE
MARKET-PLACE
It was completely
destroyed {see p. 76)
THE " MAISON DE L'ENFANT d'oR,''
BEFORE THE WAR
BRACKET OF THE " MAISON DE L'ENFANT d'oR,'
REPRESENTING SAMSON SLAYING THE LION
THF PI U I
ROYA1 E
in i r o 5
(., ^ '- »; w, f> <! , •
THE INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF " LOUIS LE BIENAIME "
August 26, 1765; erlgraving by Varin. The original statue (by Pigallc)
is in the middle of the Square.
The Place Royale
The Place Royale, which had previously suffered severely on September
19-22, 1914, was completely destroyed by fire, with the exception of the
modern buildings of the Societe Generate Bank, during the bombardment of
April 8-15, 1918.
Commenced in 1756, from plans by the architect Legendre, it formed an
oblong, of severe and imposing appearance, at the cross-ways of the four main
streets of the City. In order to carry out Legendre's plans, forty-nine
houses had to be acquired and pulled down. The Square remained unfinished,
only three of its sides being built. The Louis XV.-XVI. Transition style
houses were of uniform construction, and were remarkable for their arcades
and eaveless roofs, around which latter ran a balustrade. The central
house (formerly the Hotel des Fermes) had a Doric front "with a statue of
J<~ - -
THE PLACE ROYALE IN 1918
The plinth of the statue was protected by masonry-work.
79
Mercury surrounded bv children arranging bales or carrying grapes to the
wine-press. A statue of Louis XV., in the middle of the Square, was pro-
tected from the bombardments by masonry-work (photos p. 78 and below).
The monarch is represented in a Roman mantle and laurel wreath. On
either side of the pedestal are two allegorical bronze figures. One, a
woman, holding a helm with one hand and leading a lion with the other,
symbolizes gentleness of Government ; the other, a contented man resting in
the midst of abundance, represents the happiness of nations. The wolf and
the lamb sleeping side by side at their feet are symbolical of the Golden
Age.
The monument, inaugurated in 1765, is the work of Pigalle, but the two
STATUE OF LOUIS XV., PLACE ROYALE, WITH
PARTIALLY BUILT PROTECTING WALL
OF MASONRY
The two allegorical figures arc supposed to be likenesses of
the Sculptor Pigalle and his wife.
allegorical figures, which are supposed to be portraits of the sculptor and his
wife, alone are original.
The original statue of Louis XV. was removed at the time of the Revolution
(August 15, 1792), and sent to the foundry. It was first replaced by a
pyramid surmounted by a " Fame," in memory of the defenders of the
Patrie, then by a plaster Goddess of Liberty, and in 1803 by a trophy of
arms and flags. The present statue, erected under Louis XVIII. (1818).
is due to the sculptor Cartellier, and is an exact replica of the original
one.
It was on the steps of the monument that the Conventionist Ruhl smashed
the Sacred Ampulla under the Revolution.
80
From the Place Royale, return to the Market Square, cross over to the Rue
</<• Tambour {parallel with the Hue Colbert).
Tin- line ilc Tambour owes its name cither to the statue of a tambourine-
playei on one oJ it^ houses, or in the presence of the town-drummer who
lived in it. It was first damaged, then burnt, in \pril, 1918.
THE STATUES OF THE MUSICIANS HOUSE
The house ivas destroyed by bombardment , but the statues zverc saved.
Previous to 1918, old houses in this street were still numerous. The most
celebrated was the now completely destroyed Musicians' House (photo above),
the true origin of which is unknown.
It has variously been supposed to have been the house of a rich burgess,
of the Tom Fiddlers" Brotherhood, and the Mint of the Archbishops of Rheims.
The first story of the facade had been preserved intact since the 13th century.
In the Gothic niches which separated the mullioned and transomed windows,
five large seated figures on carved consoles {photo above) represented a
tambourine and flute player, a piper, a falconer with crossed legs, a harpist
and an organ-grinder crowned with a garland of flowers. The falcon on the
wrist of the central figure was removed by the organisers of the consecration
of Charles X., as it was feared that the royal banners might get caught
on it.
Fortunately, these statues, which are remarkable for their natural
expression and vigour, were removed to a place of safety before the house was
destroyed.
Thanks to a public subscription, the town was able to acquire them shortly
before the war, thus preventing them from being sold abroad.
The cellars of this house are curious, but there exists no proof that they
date back, as has been said, to the Roman period.
The adjoining house (No. 22) is 14th century, and probably dates back
81
14th century
DOORWAY,
22 RUE DE
TAMBOUR
to about the end of the reign of Philippe-le-Bel. Its front has been greatly
spoilt, but still contains a fine door surmounted by an elliptical arch (photo
above) .
At No. 13 of this street, two 13th century carved heads, one of a man and
the other of a woman wearing one of the mortar-shaped hats in fashion until
the end of the reign of St. Louis, have been built into the fagade.
At the end of the Rue de Tambour, take the Rue de Mars, on the right of
the Hotel-de-Ville, at the end of which, on the left, stands the Triumphal Arch
of the Mars Gate.
THE RUE DE MARS. THE TOWN HALL IS ON THE LEFT
B2
The Mars Gate
This monument was long believed to be a Roman gate — hence its name —
although the ornamentation of its four sides proves that it cannot origi-
nally have been connected with the ramparts. It was only in the Middle
Ages that it was included in the fortified castle (photo, p. 6) built by the arch-
bishops a few steps to the rear. About 1334 its arcades were walled up,
while towards 1554 it was buried under a mass of rubbish during the building
of the fortifications. Partly disinterred in 1594, when the archbishops'
castle was pulled down, it was not completely cleared until 1816-1817. Restored,
then classed as an historical monument (thanks to Prosper Merimee), it
is one of the largest Roman structures remaining in France. Forty-four
feet high, one hundred and eight wide, and sixteen thick, it was really a
triumphal arch built on the Caesarean Way at the entrance to the town,
18TH CENT! RY ENGRAVING BY COLLIN OF THE VAULTING OF THE
ROMULUS AMI REMUS ARCADE OF THE MARS GATE
In the centre: Romulus cud Remus suckled by the she-wolf.
83
probably in the 4th century. It comprises three arches separated by fluted
Corinthian columns which support the entablature. On the two main fagades
between the columns are carved medallions and niches which have lost their
statues. The vaulting of the arches is divided into sunken panels, the carving
of which is mostly in a good state of preservation. Under the eastern arch
Romulus and Remus are seen suckled by the she-wolf. Under the middle
arch, the twelve months <>f the year, represented by persons (five of whom
have been destroyed) occupied in the labours of the four seasons, surround
Abundance and Fortune. Under the western arch Love is seen descending
from the sky above Leda and the Swan.
Behind the Mars Gate is the Place de la Republique. containing a statue
by Bartholdi, damaged by shell-fire. In front of the Gate, take the Rue
HOTEL >OEL DE MLIRE
Note the curious masonry-work of the first story, composed
• of polygonal stones in relief.
Henri IV., leading behind the llotel-de-Ville. then turn to the left into the Rue
de Sedan. The house at No. 3 was destroyed by shells, except the Louis XVI.
front with its gracefully carved garlands, which escaped injury.
Take the Rue du Grenier-a-Sel, on the right, to the H6tel Noel de Muire,
on the left, at the corner of the Rue Linguet.
This house consists of the remains of a sort of Henry II. manor with
turrets and dormer-windows. The walls, rounded at the corners like those
of the Templars, are of brick and dressed stone. The plinth separating the
two stories is decorated with carved wreathed foliage. Fret-work and hexagonal
point- frame the windows, while a broad cornice on consoles carries
the roof. Formerly the residence of the lords of Muire, this house was
popularly known a- i he Waisofl des Petits Pates, on account of the polygonal
-ha,,,. ,,f the -loin- in relief. Theodore de Beze, one of the leaders of the
Reformation in France, lived there with his friend, Noel de Muire.
84
THE RUE UU MARC
Take the Rue du Marc, which continues the Hue du Grenier-a-Sel {photo
above) .
The Rue du Marc was the quarter where the old nohle families and the
higher bourgeoisie of Rheims lived. It suffered considerable from the bom-
bardments.
At No. 3 is a Henry IV. house, the windows of which are framed with
graceful ornamentation (photo below).
However, the most remarkable house in the street is undoubtedly the Hotel
Nicolas le Vergeur (No. 1), which, unfortunately, was partly destroyed by
the shells (see p. 85).
HOUSE DATING
BACK TO THE
REIGN OF
HENRI IV.
(1589-1610)
AT NO. 3
RUE DU MARC
85
The Hotel Nicolas Le Vergeur
The interior building, which has a 17th century carriage entrance, offers
two fine examples of 15th and 16th century architecture. It is the finest
Renaissance structure in Rheims. The main front, incomparably the most
graceful, was but little damaged by the bombardments (photo below).
On the ground-floor the great arched doorway is divided by a wooden
post into two delicately carved compartments. Pilasters decorated with heads,
flowers, birds, and horns of plenty frame the three stone-mullioned windows.
Above these runs a frieze of trophies and medallions, with portraits of noble
lords with upturned moustaches and pointed beards, and of great ladies with
collerettes and high head-dresses, gracious or haughty, standing well out in
relief.
On the irst story, carved panels above the windows form a sort of broad
frieze of bas-reliefs representing men-at-arms or knights of the time of
HOTEL NICOLAS LE VERCEUR
Francnis I. and Henri II. fighting at tournaments with lance, sword and
pike.
In one of the rooms overlooking the Rue Pluche were, a fine stone mantel-
piece decorated with graceful delicate foliage ; a timberwork ceiling with
large and small beams, carrying panels decorated with scrolls, and
15th century tile-flooring of terra-cotta, varnished and painted green and
yellow.
At the back of the courtyard, a building, supposed by some to be an
old chapel, had been transformed into vast cellars and store-rooms. The
oaken ceiling of the latter, about fifty feet long and twenty-one broad, destroyed
in 1918, was one of the most beautiful in the world. The beams, whose
extremities carried grotesque figures, were carved on all their sides with
foliage, dragons, birds, and fruits. The beams were connected by joists resting
on stems, which represented apes, dragons, persons, and foliage. Between the
joists the panels had the appearance of scrolls.
After visiting the Hotel Le Vergeur, turn to the right into the Rue Pluche,
which leads to the Place des Marches. Skirt the Square on the left, then take
the first street on the left : Rue Courmeaux.
8<>
HOTEl
Rl II
MONI i IN,
1 8 RUE
COURMEA1 \
// No. 18 are the ruins of the Hotel Rogier de Monclin, tlestroyed after
April. 1918. This house dated back to the Louis XV. period, but had been
disfigured by modern alterations. The fagade overlooking the courtyard, the
entrance-hall, and the staircase with ornamental balustrade, were interesting.
At the time of the consecration of Louis XVL, one of the saloons was
furnished for the King's brother, the Comte (or Monsieur) d'Artois, whence
the name "Rue de Monsieur," formerly borne by the Rue Courmeaux.
At No. 30 is a Renaissance door, almost intact (photo below). At No.
34, at the corner of the Rue Legendre, is a late 16th century house, whose
interior arrangement and fagade are intact, except for the woodwork of the
windows, which was modernised in the 18th century. It was built on the site
REN USSANCE DOOR
30, Rue Courmeaux.
87
of the old wool-market, after Marshal de Saint-Paul, at the time of the League,
had compelled the inhabitants of the Faubourg Ceres to destroy their houses.
Return to the Rue Courmeaux and take the Rue Bonhomme on the left,
which leads to the Rue Ceres.
The Rue Ceres was totally destroyed by fire, from the Place Roy ale to the
Post Office, which had to be given up in the autumn of 1914.
At No. 30 is the Chamber of Commerce, one of the finest late 18th cen-
tury buildings in Rheims. The magnificent Louis XVI. rooms escaped prac-
tically uninjured. The staircase leading to the first story, with its delicate
balustrade, is very remarkable.
CHURCH OF ST. ANDRE,
Rue du Faubourg Ceres.
INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH OF ST. ANDRE
The Rue Ceres ends at the Esplanade Ceres {photo p. 87), which was
made outside the old ramparts near the Ceres Gate. The name Ceres is
derived from a tower that long served as a prison {career, whence by cor-
ruption chair, cere, and then by false myth-
ological association, Ceres). It was in this
tower (no longer existing, but famous as early
as the 9th century) that, according to the
chansons de geste, Ogier the Dane, handed
over by Charlemagne to the custody of the
Bishop of Rheims, was incarcerated.
From the Esplanade continue, if desired,
by the Rue du Faubourg Ceres (greatly dam-
aged by the bombardments), to the Church
of St. Andre, a modern building erected by
the architect Brunette.
It was struck several times by shells and
will have to be rebuilt. As early as the first
bombardment of September 4th, 1914, shell
splinters damaged the doorway, transept,
stained glass (part of which was 16th cen-
tury and came from the old church), small
organ, and the painting of the Baptism of
Clovis. Subsequently, the vaulting and parts
of the walls collapsed.
The Church possesses a precious reliquary
of copper (15th century) and a statue of
St. Andre (patron of the church) of painted
and gilded stone, attributed without author-
ity, to Pierre Jacques.
RELIQUARY OF ST. ANDRE
89
HOTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1916
19, Rue Eugene Dcstcuque.
Return to the Esplanade Ceres, turn to the left at the beginning of the
Boulevard de la Paix, then to the right into the Rue Eugene Desteuque.
At No. 19 of this street are the ruins of the Hotel Thiret de Prain.
The Hotel Thiret de Prain
This was a mansion in the days of Henry IV. and Louis XIII. Richelieu
stayed there in 1641.
An imposing building, bordered with streets on its four sides, it had
retained its original appearance. The carriage-entrance in the Rue Eugene-
Desteuque alone had been rebuilt in 109/. 1 lie principal entrance was sur-
mounted with a gallery, the walls, ceiling and beams of which were covered
with delicate decorative paintings.
On the first floor one of the corner rooms, looking east, contained a large
HOTEL THIRET DE PRAIN IN 1918
These two photographs illustrate the systematic destructions
practised by the Germans.
90
INTKRIOR FACADE OF THE CLOISTER OF THE
FRANCISCAN FRIARS
In the courtyard of No. 9. Rue des Trois-Raisinets.
Henry IV. mantelpiece, above which were the arms of the nobles of Prain.
Only the metallic portion remains.
The dove-cot of the Hotel, a massive square tower with pent-house roof,
overlooking the Rue d'Avenay, was destroyed by the bombardments.
On the left of the Rue Eugene-Desteuque, opposite the Hotel Thiret-de-
Prain, is the Rue des Trois-Raisinets. At No. 9 are the ruins of a Franciscan
Cloister (photo above).
This street {photo below), like the Cloister, suffered severely from the
bombardments.
Return to the Rue Eugene-Desteuque unci follow the same as far as the Rue
de la Grue (on the right). This street was badly damaged by shell-fire and
is impracticable for motor-cars.
It was named after the sign carved on a stone (photo, p. 91) of the house
at No. 5 (entirely destroyed by the shells). At the end stood the house where
RUINS OF THE MARCOTIN FACTORY
14. Rue des Trois-Raisinets.
9]
THE SIGN WHICH GAVE ITS NAME TO THE
RUE DE LA GRUE
It was at a\'o. 5, but has been destroyed.
J. B. Colbert was born (at the corner of the Rues Ceres and de Nanteuil,
photo beloiv) .
Return to the Rue Eugene-Desteuque, follow it as jar as the Rue de l'Uni-
versite. Turn into the latter on the left.
This street was destroyed as early as September, 1914. At No. 25 are the
ruins of a Professional School for Girls, formerly the St. Martha Hospital.
The latter, also known as the " Hopital des Magneuses," was founded in the
17th century by Mesdames de Magneux, and rebuilt in the 18th century in
the Louis XVI. style.
' — -—-i. .
RUINS OF THE HOUSE WHERE COLBERT
WAS BORN
At the corner of the Hues Ceres and de Nanteuil.
92
At No. 40, opposite the Sub-Prefecture, now in ruins, is the Maison de
Jean Maillefer, named after the rich merchant who built it in 1652. It was
scarcely finished, when it was chosen — and this was a source of pride to its
owner as an abode for Vnne of \ustiia, at the lime of the consecration of
Louis XIV. The inside of the courtyard alone has retained practically its
ancient appearance. The front looking on the street had recently been put
back and altered. Some of the sculpture which adorned it came from an-
other house.
A short distance farther on, on the left, is the Place Godinot, named after a
canon of the 18th century, who caused numerous alterations to be made in the
decoration of the choir and sanctuary of the Cathedral.
Take tlie Rue St. Just on the right, and follow its continuation (the Rue des
Anglais) as far as the Rue d'Anjou, which take on the right.
The Hotel de la Pourcelette ( No. 7 ) evokes memories of Mabillon, who
lived there when a young student at the University of Rheims.
At the end of the Rue d'Anjou, turn to the left into the Rue du Cardinal de
Lorraine, and follow the same to the short Rue des Tournelles on the left.
In the house at No. 3 of this street were incorporated the turret and two
principal windows of an old Gothic 16th century structure, situated at No. 18
of the Rue des Anglais, and in ruins since 1898. The drawing-room likewise
contains a large stone chimney-piece, which formerly stood in the great hall
of the old house.
At the end of the Rue des Tournelles, turn to the right into the Rue des
Fusiliers, which leads to the Place du Parvis. Cross the latter to the Rue
Tronson Ducoudray. Follow this street, which runs between the Palais de
LOUIS XIII. DOOR
At No. 20 Rue du Carrouge.
93
Justice and the Theatre, turn to the left, in front of the latter, into the Rue de
Vesle, and take the first street on the right, the Rue de Talleyrand.
Follow this street, the greater part of which was destroyed by fire during
the bombardments of April, 1918. It suffered further damage in the months
that followed, and a number of interesting old houses were destroyed.
Turn into the first street on the right (Rue du Cadran St. Pierre », and fol-
low the same as far as the Rue de la Clef. Take the latter on the right.
Before doing so, however, take a look at the fine Louis XIII. entrance
(photo p. 92) of the house at No. 20 of the Rue du Carrouge opposite.
At No. 4 of the Rue de la Clef are the ruins of the former Hotel de
Bezannes, partly built by Pierre de Bezannes, Lieutenant of Rheims in 1458.
This house contains some fine 16th and 18th century woodwork.
The Rue dcs Deux Anges, which continues the Rue de la Clef, leads to the
RUE CARNOT
The Place Royalc is seen in the background.
Place du Palais, destroyed during the bombardments of April, 1918. In
this square stands the Palais de Justice. The Palais replaced the old
Hotel-Dieu, but has been almost entirely rebuilt. It is a building of little
note, the principal entrance in particular being stiff to excess.
Its only interest is provided by two relics of the past: the vast cellars
or subterranean vaults with pointed arches supported by columns with
Gothic capitals; and the fagade of the Audience-Chamber, formerly the
principal ward of the old H6tel-Dieu, the exterior of which has retained its
venerable appearance and the interior, vestiges of its lofty timber-work and
wainscoted vaulting.
The ground -floor of the Palais alone escaped damage from fire and the
shells, thanks to a terrace of reinforced concrete.
On the left of the Palais take the Rue Carnot, destroyed by the bombard-
ments of April, 1918.
94
I l„- Rue (.mint communicates with the courtyard of t lit- Chapter-
House, also burnt, bj a greal gate and passage which pass right through a
li. use.
This entrance was buill aboul l").'i(). in the Transition style between the
Gothic ami Renaissance, lis elliptical arch bears a scutcheon with the arms
of the Chapter. Consoles, decorated with grotesque figures, support the
beams. The points of the turrets have disappeared, a supporting shaft lias
been mutilated and the carved wooden leaves of the door have been removed
lo ilif Lycee, >et the gate is still imposing.
It is tlu> last remaining vestige of the Chapter buildings which, with their
gates closing at the same time as those of the city, at the sound of the bell,
formed a "city within a city." In point of fact, the Chapter was once lord
of that part of the city which lies around the Cathedral, and which it admin-
DOOR OF THE CHAPTER-HOUSE
COURTYARD
The Northern Transept of the Cathedral is
seen in the background.
istered. The canons, jealous of their prerogatives, were often in conflict with
the archbishops.
A few capitals and shafts of the ancient cloister of the Chapter, adjoining
the Cathedral, were recently discovered and placed under one of the pent-
houses built between the buttresses of Notre-Dame.
Go through the gate, cross the Place <li< Chapitre, follow the Rue du Preau
towards the Cathedral, then tarn to the right into the Rue Robert de Coucy,
which Jeails back to the Place du Purvis Notre-Dame.
SECOND ITINERARY FOR VISITING RHEIMS
95
Starting from the Place du Parvis-N otre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier,
opposite the Cathedral. Turn to the left into the Rue Chanzy, which was
destroyed by the bombardments of April-August, 1918.
96
DOOR AND BA1 CONT!
O] i n i null i I'l:
I "IK 1 *i.\"\.
(18t/i Centut y),
at No. 71
/?/((• Chancy
The ruins of the 18th century Hotel Lagoille de Courtagnon may be
seen at No. 71 of this street. It was destroyed by the bombardments of
April, 1918, with the exception of a part of the front. The finely carved door
and remarkable ironwork of the balcony are visible in the above photo-
graph.
ORNAMENTAL
RAIN-WATER
TIPE-HEAD OF
LEAD UNDER
THE ROOF OF THE
HOSPICE NOEL
caque (see p. 97)
97
GALLO-ROMAN
BAS-RELIEF
at No. 65, Rue de
I'Universite. This
bas-relief and the
one opposite, on the
wall of the Lycee,
are the last
remaining vestiges
of a Gallo-Roman
gate.
The Hospice Noel Caque (formerly Hospice St.-Marcoul), on the right,
was seriously damaged by the bombardments of April, 1918. It dated from
the middle of the 17th century, and was well preserved, with the exception of
the chapel, rebuilt in 1873.
Take the Rue de Control, on the left, which leads to the Rue de I'Universite.
Inserted in the facade of the house at No. 65 (on the right), and in the wall of
the Lycee (on the left), are two stone bas-reliefs ornamented with trophies
of arms and Roman insignia, the sole remaining vestiges of the Porte Basee
(from Basilea) which formerly stood there on the Caesarean way, at the southern
extremity of the Gallo-Roman town. (See photo above of the right-hand
bas-relief. )
Follow the Rue de TUniversite and skirt the Lycee de Garcons, of which
THE FA£ADE
OF THE LYCEE,
DESTROYED
BY THE
BOMBARDMENTS
98
DOOR OF THE
PET1 1
S, Rue Vauthier-
le-Noir.
On either side of
the arcade are
heads of
" Jean qui rit "
and
"Jean qui pleure."
only the chapel and one of the buildings are left. The rest was burnt or
destroyed by shell-fire.
The Lycee replaced the old College des Bans Enfants, founded in the Mid-
dle Ages, and rebuilt in the 16th century by the Cardinal de Lorraine, founder
of the University of Rheims.
Of the old College, only the central part remained, in the second court
built by Archbishop Charles Maurice Le Tellier in 1686 and the following
years.
The gate of the Cour des Etudes dates from 1688.
The ancient door of the College — the tympana of whose arcading contain
two laughing and crying heads — was transferred to the entrance of the Petit
Lycee, at No. 5 of the street on the right of the Lycee (Rue Vauthier-le-Noir)
{photo above).
Shortly after the Lycee, turn to the right into the Place Godinot, then take
the Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames on the right. At No. 8 are the ruins of the Abbey
of St. Pierre-les-Dames.
Of this celebrated Abbey, where several royal persons stayed: Mary Stuart
twice, in her childhood and after she was widowed; Henry IV., on a visit to
his cousin, the Abbess Renee II.; Anne of Austria, of whom the Congregation
library contains a portrait ; there remains hardly anything but two 16th
century pavilions belonging to the period when Renee de Lorraine, sister of
the Queen of Scotland and aunt of Mary Stuart, was abbess of the convent.
Built of stone and brick with marble incrustations, and adorned with beautiful
carvings, these pavilions were pure Renaissance in style. The head of an angel
with unfolded wings and the head of a grinning demon surmounted the two
windows of one of the ground-floors. On the first floor of the same pavilion
the window, framed with delicate ornaments, opened above a cornice, the prin-
cipal sculptural subject of which was a nude woman, helmeted, suckling
two children.
99
1
^ RUINS OF THE
■ ABBEY OF
7 ST. PIERRE-LES-DAMES,
» 8, Rue St. Pierre-
\ les-Dames
The Rue St. Pierre-les-Dames leads to the Rue des Murs, into which turn
to the right, then to the left into the Rue du Barbdtre. Follow the latter to the
end. This street suffered greatly from the early bombardment, and was almost
entirely destroyed in the summer of 1918.
At Nos. 137 and 139, at the corner of the Rue Montlaurent, are the ruins of
the Hotel Feret de Montlaurent.
Hotel Feret de Montlaurent.
This large building, occupied by the Cercle Catholique, was commenced
about 1510 by Hubert Feret, a Lieutenant of the people, and the most cele-
CALLERY FACING THE COURTYARD OF THE HOTEL FERET
DE MONTLAURENT
The statues in the niches represent the sun and planets.
100
entury, most of t lie decoration is
on the ground-floor of the wing
a six-arched gallery which was
Between the arch-centres and at
stone statues
brated member of a family which played an important part at Rheims in the
15th, 16th. and 17th centuries. The outside facade has been greatly altered.
\t No. L37 it was entirely rebuill under Louis XVI. At No. 139 the ground-
floor openings have been modified.
V> in many <>l the mansions oJ the Huh c
on the innei facades. Inside the c tyard,
abutting on the Rue Montlaurent, there is
damaged hut not destroyed (photo, p. 99).
the ends of the gallery are seven inches, three feet high, enclosing
of the sun and the six planets known in the L6th century.
Taken in their order thej arc: Saturn, with a scythe in his hand and
serpent round his arm. devouring a child, and the zodiacal signs Aquarius
and Capricornus at his feet: Jupiter, holding a lighted torch, with Sagittarius
at his feet ; Mars, armed from head to foot, surmounting Cancer and Aries ;
the Sun, personified by Phoebus with flowing mantle, a lion at his side ;
Venus, clothed only in her hair, surmounting Taurus and Balcena ; Mercury,
with wings on his head and heels, the caduceus in his hand, Virgo and Gemini
at his feet ; the Moon, represented by Diana hearing a crescent ; below her
Scorpio.
The escutcheons on the wall at the hack of this fagade bear the initials
of Regnault Feret, who completed the mansion. In the second court there
are still vestiges of the chapel of this family.
At No. 142 of the same street, the entrance to the Cour Maupinot (one of
the numerous cours which have survived in Rheims) is framed in pilasters,
the carved entablature of which supports a triangular pediment (photo below).
The Rue Barbdtre is continued by the Rioe des Salines, which leads to the
Place St. Nicaise.
ENTRANCE TO
MAUPINOT COURT.
THE DOORWAY IS
RENAISSANCE,
142, Rue du Barbatre.
See Itinerary, p. 95
101
The Place St. Nicaise was destroyed by the bombardments of April-
August, 1918. It took its name from the celebrated Bishop of Rheims,
who, with his sister, St. Eutropia, was put to death by the Vandals in
407.
The Church of St. Nicaise, rebuilt in the 13th century by Libergier and
Robert de Coucy, was destroyed at the time of the Revolution. Amongst
other curiosities it contained a loose pillar, which Peter the Great had pointed
out to him at the time of his journey through Rheims.
At the corner of the Place St. Nicaise, between the Boulevard Victor-
Hugo and the Rue St. Nicaise, is the entrance to the Champion Cellars,
in which the Dubail school was installed during the war (see p. 24).
Take the Rue St. Nicaise to the Boulevard Henry Vasnier (photo below),
turn into the latter, on the right, and follow same as far as the Rond-Point
St. Nicaise.
All this part of the town, which was quite close to the German lines, was
constantly under the fire of their guns. It was violently bombarded during the
German offensives of May, June and July, 1918.
Near the Rond-Point de St. Nicaise are the Pommery Cellars, which
gave shelter to many citizens and school-classes during the war (see p. 24).
The Pommery Cellars
These cellars are among the finest in Rheims, and form, with their
eleven miles of streets, squares and boulevards lighted by electricity, rail-
tracks, waggons, lifts, electric pumps and siphons, quite an underground city.
A visit to them will give the tourist an idea of the importance and complexity
of the Champagne wine industry in Rheims.
Till: HENRY. VASNIER, SEEN FROM THE ROND-POINT ST. NICAISE
102
TRENCHES AND SHELTERS IN THE SQUARE ST. NICAISE
See Itinerary, p. 95, and panorama from the top of St. Nicaisc Hill, p. 27.
The Boulevard Diancourt, which skirls the Square St. Nicaise, begins at the
Rond-Point St. Nicaise.
This square was much cut up by the bombardments, and by the trenches
and defensive works made there during the war (photo above).
The square contains two eminences, from t lie top of which there is a fine
panoramic view of Rheims.
The photograph on page 27 was taken from the eminence nearest the
Rond-Point St. Nicaise.
The other eminence is crowned by a limestone tower — all that remains of
the ancient city ramparts.
Follow the Boulevard Diancourt to the Place Dieu-Lumiere.
The name Dieu-Lumiere, borne by the old gate through which Joan-of-Arc
and the Dauphin entered Rheims, was not derived, as supposed at the
Renaissance, from the Sun-God Apollo, but from the old Gate Dieu-li-Mire
(God the Physician), so called in the Middle Ages on account of the proximity
of a Cistercian hospital.
Cross the square and take the Rue Dieu-Lumiere on the right to the Place
St. Timothee. The wood-panelled houses, whose loges faced the Place St.-
Timothee, were destroyed by the bombardments of April-September, 1918,
except the one at the corner of the Rue St. Julien. This house, though
severely damaged, has retained its butcher's stall with 17th century wooden
balustrading.
Take the Rue St. Julien on the left to the Place St.-Remi, in which stands
the Church of St. Remi.
103
The Church of St. Remi
The Church of St. Remi is the oldest church in Rheims, and one of the
oldest in all France. Although it is not certain that it replaced a Roman
basilica, said to have stood on the site of the present transept, there is no
doubt that Gallo-Roman building materials, taken from neighbouring edifices,
were used in its construction or restoration.
To-day, the church covers a ground-space of about an acre and a quarter.
In shape a Latin cross, it measures inside about 450 feet in length, 98 feet
in breadth and 124 feet in height under the vaulting. Only the southern
facade shows to advantage, but in spite of its varied styles, which mark the
different stages of its growth, the church realises to the full the purpose of
its founders. Its architecture and decoration, especially in the interior,
make it, as was intended, a grand and dignified depository for sacred
remains.
The Church of St. Remi stands on the site of a former cemetery, in the
middle of which was the Chapel of St. Christopher, where St. Remi was
buried. The chapel soon became popular and grew rapidly, especially between
the 6th and 9th centuries, when it became a great fortified church. The
present church, which replaced it, is not only one of the finest Romanesque
churches in the north of France, but also forms a curious epitome of the history
of architecture for several centuries. Begun in 1039 under Abbot Thierry,
it was still far from finished when consecrated in 1049 by Pope Leo IX.
Building was continued in 1170 by Abbot Pierre de Celle, the future Bishop
of Chartres, whose restorations were the first application of the Gothic style
to a great building in Rheims ; in the 13th and 14th centuries, under Abbot
Jean Canart, and in the 15th century, under Abbot Robert de Lenoncourt.
Partially transformed at the end of the 16th century, it has been restored
and partly rebuilt at intervals since 1839.
The Church of St. Remi During the War
The Church of St. Remi escaped severe damage until the middle of 1918.
The bombardment of September 4, 1914, injured one of the tapestries
depicting the life of St. Remi, and destroyed a fine painting: The Entry of
Clovis into Rheims. The bombardment of November 16, 1914, wrecked the
apsidal chapel of the Virgin, bringing down the vaulting, destroying the
key-stone and pointed arches, crushing the altar beneath a heap of ruins,
smashing the magnificent windows of the apsidal gallery, and destroying
the priceless 12th century stained-glass depicting Christ crucified between the
Virgin and St. John. The Church narrowly escaped destruction when the
Hotel-Dieu Hospital was burnt down in 1916. From April, 1918, it was
marked down by the German batteries. The roof was entirely burnt, and
the dummy vaulting of the nave collapsed. Of the fine 15th century
timber-work nothing remains, but parts of the lofty 13th century vaulting
over the choir and transept withstood the bombardment. The treasure,
tapestries, sacristy doors, storied tile-flooring of the chapel of St.-Eloi,
the old stained-glass of the lofty windows, and the apsidal windows round
the gallery of the first storey, were saved by the Historical Monuments
Department.
The tomb of St. Remi is intact. The relics of the saint which, at the
request of the Archbishop of Rheims had not been disturbed, were removed
by the vicar of the parish at the time of the final evacuation of the town.
The reliquary was taken away by officers at a later date, while the church was
burning.
104
The Apse of St. Remi Church
The \|i-c was rebuilt under Pierre de Celle in 1170, in early Gothic. Five
three-sided radiating chapels arranged in three stages, one behind the other,
have Mowing and elegant lines, broken bj the enormous projections of the
buttresses which were added at a later period.
This apse is one of the earliest religions edifices in France, in which flying
buttresses were employed.
The latter, very simple in design, rest on outside fluted columns detached
from the wall of the apse. This is one of the last examples of fluting, as
applied to columns, the process disappearing generally with the introduction
of pointed architecture, only to re-appear at the Renaissance.
The persistence of this fluting is doubtless explained by the influence of the
many specimens of Roman architecture which Rheims had preserved.
The Doorway of the Southern Transept
Although the transept dates from the 11th century, its southern fagade
was built in 1480 by Robert de Lenoncourt.
The doorway, which bears the Lenoncourt arms, comprises only one door,
divided by a pillar with statues of St. Remi and the Virgin.
The deep vaulting of the door is ornamented with vine-foliage. At the
base, in the supporting walls, are statues of St. Sixtus and St. Sinicius (the
first missionaries to Rheims) bare-footed, clothed in long embroidered mantles
and holding books. In the vaulting above the head-covering of the mission-
aries are eight groups of statuettes representing episodes in the Life and
Passion of Jesus.
Tourists who follow the Itinerary on page 95, come out by the Rue St.
Julien, in front of the doorway of the south transept. The latter is between
the ruined apse (on the right) and the south lateral fagade (on the
left).
SOUTHERN
TRANSEPT
OF ST. REMI
CHURCH
105
DOORWAY
OF THE
SOUTHERN
TRANSEPT
(see photo,
p. 104)
The 15th century leaves of the door are composed of wood panels in blind
arcading, ornamented with flowering clover.
On the buttresses which frame the doorway are five statues of saints,
including St. Remi, St. Benedict and St. Christopher carrying a kneeling
Jesus on his shoulder.
The tympanum of the gable above the great flamboyant window is arranged
on a Gothic pediment. Its decoration represents the Assumption of the Virgin
and her crowning in Heaven.
On the top of the pediment, and crowning the whole, is St. Michael tramp-
ling Satan underfoot.
The whole of the doorway is a beautiful example of Flamboyant Gothic.
Its rich carvings and delicate ornamentation are in striking contrast with
the severity of the rest of the building.
At the intersection of the transept, there was formerly a wooden spire,
built in 1394, which was pulled down as unsafe in 1825, by order of those
who had charge of the arrangements connected with the consecration of
Charles X.
On the right-hand side of the transept, and also in the north transept, are
small semi-circular chapels.
South Lateral Facade
This front has the bare, massive appearance of the 11th century buildings.
The remarkable Roman arches, massive buttresses and blind doorway, framed
by two primitive capitals with a wreath-shaped astragal, are apparently vestiges
of constructions of an earlier date than those of Abbot Thierry.
The semi-cylindrical abutments are among the oldest of mediaeval but-
tresses. They are crowned with cones or capitals, the greater part of which
are devoid of decoration.
106
The West Front of St. Remi Church
Between its two towers, this gabled facade, the recesses and blind arcading
of which form almost its sole decoration, is in strong contrast with the principal
facade of the Cathedral. At once elegant and severe, like most of the monastic
buildings of the 12th century, it lacks unity. All that part situated above
the five windows of the first storey, including the rose-window, has been re-
built in modern times. The very simple rose-window, between two lines of
superimposed arcading, is protected, in the Champagne style, by a relieving-
arch. The northern tower (on the left) was almost entirely rebuilt in the 19th
century, on the lines of the old one. The simpler southern tower (on the
right), with its arched windows and loopholes, is Roman of the 11th or 12th
century. The pointed part of the facade is late 12th century, and dates from
the time of the restorations by Pierre de Celle.
Three doors open on the nave. The central one is flanked by two columns
with statues of St. Peter and St. Remi. The marble and granite columns
came, no doubt, from some neighbouring Gallo-Roman building. These
statues, with arms pressed close to their sides in the ancient stiff manner, are
probably from the original basilicas.
107
The Inner Side of the Western Doorway
Here, the architecture is peculiar. Pierced columns form a gallery con-
necting the upper courses. The galleries of the first story are supported by
two great columnar shafts, each formed of two portions joined by a stone ring
and surmounted by bell-shaped marble capitals. The columns and capital? are
Gallo-Roman.
The Nave
Alterations were made at different times to the nave which, in the 11th
century, had a timber-work roof. Pierre de Celle lengthened it by two bays,
the pointed arches of which contrast with the circular ones of the lower bays.
and also increased its height. Note the ogives above the round arches. The
visible timber-work was replaced with vaulting on diagonal ribs sustained by
clusters of small Gothic columns backing up against the Roman piers, the
latter being still visible. These heavy piers (composed of fourteen small
columns) which surround the central nave, and whose capitals (photo, p. 108),
with Barbaric wreathed astragals and foliage, recall the Carolingian period,
contrast strikingly with the lightness of the apse. They are undoubtedly
11th century. All the stone vaulting of the nave, as far as the transept,
108
was replaced alter 1839 with wood and plaster, which collapsed under the
bombardments of 1918, when the roof was burnt.
The pulpit, with its Benedictine monogram, is late 17th century. It is
THE nave and choir in 1914 (Cliche LL.)
109
ornamented with three bas-reliefs: St. Remi receiving the Sacred Ampulla,
St. Benedict imploring the Holy Spirit, and St. Benedict giving the Injunction
to his monks. As far as the pulpit, on both sides of the nave, the granite
columns resting on the piers date from the Gallo-Roman period.
The side-aisles of the nave are surmounted with a triforium (photo above)
with semi-circular vaulting at right-angles to the nave. The south aisle is
almost entirely in ruins (photo, p. 107).
THE NAVE AND CHOIR IN 1919
110
The Tapestries
The priceless tapestries which, before the war, decorated the tribunals of
the side-aisles, were saved.
Those given 1>\ Robert de Lenoncourt and restored by Les Gobelins, are
rich in composition and decorative effect. In an architectural frame of the
Renaissance period, the) represent the following legendary scenes from the
life "I St. Remi. the costumes belonging to the period of Francois I.: —
1. The blind hermit Muiiiamis visits the new-born Remi, who, touching him
with his lingers wet with milk, restores his sight.
2. The hermit St. Remi. called by the people to the bishopric, receives the
mitre.
3. Four miracles are performed by the saint: he extinguishes a fire lighted
by demons in the city; he restores life to a girl; he is served at table by
angels; when wine ran short at the table of his cousin Celsa, he blessed an
empty cask, which was immediately filled.
1. The Battle of Tolbiac; Clovis instructed and baptized by Remi;
THE TENTH TAPESTRY OF ST. REMI, DAMAGED BY SHELL-SPLINTERS ON
SEPT. 4, 1914
(See description pp. 110-111.)
Ill
the miraculous dove and an angel bring from heaven the Sacred Ampulla and
the fleur-de-lys scutcheon.
5. Remi gives Clovis a cask of wine, telling him that he will always be
victorious so long as the cask remains full; a miller who refused to give his
mill to the Church, sees his wheel turn the wrong way and his mill fall down ;
St. Genebaud, Bishop of Soissons, punished by Remi for his sins, is after-
wards delivered from his fetters by the saint.
6. The miracle of Hydrissen : Remi raises a man from the dead, who con-
firms his wish to leave a portion of his wealth to the Church, to the confusion
of his son-in-law who contested the will.
7. Remi contemplating a heap of corn which he had collected to provide
against famine, and which some drunkards had burnt. At a Council, Remi
paralyses the tongue of a heretic priest, and then restores speech to him after
repentance.
8. Remi, singing Matins in the chapel of the Virgin, is assisted by St.
Peter and St. Paul and blessed by Mary. Remi. blind, dictates his will in the
presence of St. Genebaud and St. Medard. Remi recovers his sight, celebrates
mass and gives the Communion to his clergy. Remi dies and four angels carry-
away his soul.
9. Remi's funeral ; the procession goes towards the church of St. Timothy,
where it is proposed to bury the saint, but in front of St. Christopher's, on
the site of the present basilica, the saint, by making it impossible to lift his
coffin, manifests his desire to be interred in this chapel. The saint's winding-
sheet, carried in procession, dispels the plague that had been ravaging the
city.
10. Angels transfer the relics of the saint to his mausoleum. A soldier who
had tried to break in the door of the church, cannot withdraw his foot. Remi
punishes the Bishop of Mayence, guilty of theft. Remi reveals himself with
the Virgin and St. John. The Archbishop of Rheims, Robert de Lenoncourt,
kneeling, presents the ten pieces of tapestry to the saint.
The latter tapestry was riddled with splinters {photo, p. 110) during the
bombardment of September 4, 1914.
The Treasure
This was kept in the sacristy, the 15th century carved wood doors of which
have Flamboyant style frames.
Formerly the richest of all the church treasures of France, it was impover-
ished in the course of the centuries, through wars and revolutions.
The enamels by Landin of Limoges (1633), dedicated to the lives of St.
Timothy and St. Remi, a 12th century abbot's crozier, reliquaries and
sacerdotal ornaments are noteworthy.
The treasure was removed, together with the doors of the sacristy, by the
Historical Monuments Department.
The North Transept
Three small white marble Gallo-Roman or Carolingian capitals crown the
colonnettes of the triforium.
Formerly, the church contained several tombs. Let into the wall of the
112
north transept is a Latin epitaph, praising the virtues of a woman named
Guiberge, who seem- to have combined in her person the perfections of six
women, i.e. the heaut> ol Uachcl, the fidelity of Rebecca, llie modesty of
Susanna, the pietj of Tahitha. the warm alVi-«l ions of Until, and the high
morals of Anna.
THE RUINED TRANSEPT
In the foreground : Renaissance Balustrade round the Choir (see p. 115), at
the intersection of the Northern Transept. At the back: Inner side of the
South Transept Door.
The South Transept
The first chapel on the right of the apse, against the transept, is the chapel
of St. Eloi.
In 1816, forty-eight storied flag-stones, taken from the flooring of the
sanctuary of the church of St. Nicaise and collected by the architect Brunette,
were placed there.
These 14th century lozenge-shaped stones are engraved in black, the hol-
lowed-out portions being filled with lead. Each stone has a pretty border with
113
a square medallion, in the middle of which two or three figures represent a
scene from the Old Testament, from Noah to Daniel in the lions' den.
This chapel also contained two very expressive mediaeval statues of painted
wood and a 14th century Christ, all of which came from the old church of
St. Balsamic.
The second chapel on the eastern side of the south transept contained an
Entombment dating from 1531. In this group, which belonged to the old
church of the Commandery of the Temple of Rheims, Joseph of Arimathea
and Nicodemus hold the winding-sheet. Salome, and Mary the mother of St.
James, stand near the tomb, while the Virgin, overcome with grief, is sup-
ported by St. John.
THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENTOMBMENT, FORMERLY IN ONE OF THE
CHAPELS OF THE SOUTHERN TRANSEPT (Cliche LL.)
Facing this Burial Scene was the Altar-screen of the Three Baptisms, the
work of Nicolas Jacques and the gift of Jean Lespagnol in 1610. This
screen, which formed the background of the baptismal fonts, represented in
three bas-reliefs : The baptism of Clovis (on the right), the baptism of Jesus
by John-the-Baptist (in the center), and the baptism of Constantine (on the
left).
The railing round the baptismal fonts belongs to the second half of the
18th century, and was taken from the church of St. Pierre-le-Vieil.
114
SCULPTURED CONSOLES OF COLONNETTES IN THE CHOIR
The Choir of St. Remi Church
The Choir was rebuilt by Pierre de Celle. Tbe plan is very like that of the
choir of the Cathedral, of which it is the prototype.
As in the Cathedral, it intrudes upon the nave, of which it occupies the
three last bays. In the latter, the columns placed against the six piers were
removed. The groups of small columns which support the ribs of the vaulting
rest upon a corbel-table carried by three consoles {photo above), which in
turn rest on colonnettes with crocheted capitals. The central consoles are
ornamented with figures of angels and symbolic animals, while under the
lateral consoles are statuettes of prophets holding scrolls, on which their names
are inscribed in painted letters.
Five circular radiating chapels open out on the vast ambulatory. The
plan of the latter, like that of Notre-Dame-de-Chalons, evokes all that is most
original in the Gothic architecture of Champagne. The bays with their al-
ternations of square-ogival and triangular vaulting do not correspond with
the breadth of the radiating chapels, which are connected to one another
by three arcades resting on light columns. In the lower nave, from the
curiously large number of points of support, it would seem that the builders
had doubts as to the strength of the pointed style and, by way of precaution,
greatly increased the number of points of support inside the church and of the
exterior buttresses. The tribunes rising above the arcades are surmounted
with a triforium lighted by high windows, which still retain their beautiful
early 18th century stained-glass. The somewhat stiff figures stand out on a
uniformly blue ground. In the upper part, apostles, evangelists, and the
sixteen greater prophets are grouped around a stately Virgin. In the lower
115
FRAGMENT OF PASCHAL CHANDELIER DESTROYED BY
THE BOMBARDMENTS OF 1914
part, the principal archbishops of Rheims on thrones are seated round St.
Remi who occupies the place of honour below the Virgin. In the two last
windows are effigies of Archbishops Samson (deceased in 1161) and Henry of
France, during whose episcopate Pierre de Celle caused the apse to be built.
The choir is surrounded by a Renaissance railing which is out of harmony
with the general scheme. It was erected between 1656 and 1669, at the joint
expense of the widow of the famous barrister Omer Talon, the Town Council,
the Duke of Longueville, and the Grand Prior of St. Remi. The sculptor
Francois Jacques seems to have co-operated therewith.
The great crown of light hanging at the entrance to the choir was an imita-
tion of the original crown, destroyed in 1793, and which was garnished with
ninety-six candles symbolizing the ninety-six years of St. Remi's life (see p.
108).
The 18th century high-altar of red marble which, like the cross and the
six chandeliers, came from the church of the Minims, was crushed beneath
the falling vaulting.
At the time of the Revolution (1792) the chandelier (masterpiece of the
old Rheims metal-founders), which adorned the centre of the Sanctuary, was
broken and melted down, with the exception of a portion of one of the feet.
This fragment (photo above), preserved in the Archaeological Museum, was
destroyed by the bombardment of 1914.
116
roMB \M>
RELIQUARY
>>> ST. REMI
The Tomb and Reliquary of St. Remi
The present tomb, erected in 1847, is only a memorial of the sumptuous
mausoleum, profusely decorated with gold medals, diamonds and sapphires,
which was destroyed at the time of the Revolution.
It is a Renaissance chapel, ornamented with the statues of the original
tomb, which form by far the most interesting part of the monument. The
twelve Peers are represented in their coronation robes : the Archbishop, Duke
of Rheims, carries the Cross ; the Archbishop, Duke of Laon, the sceptre ;
the Bishop, Count of Beauvais, the royal mantle ; the Bishop, Count of
Chalons, the ring ; the Bishop, Count of Noyon, the girdle ; the Duke of
Burgundy, the crown ; the Duke of Aquitaine, the standard ; the Duke of
Normandy, a second standard ; the Count of Flanders, the sword ; the Count
of Toulouse, the spurs ; the Count of Champagne, the military standard of
the King.
The Reliquary of St. Remi, which is in the mausoleum, dates from 1896.
It was bought by national subscription and presented to the church on the
occasion of the centenary of the baptism of Clovis. In the niches of the lower
part of the reliquary are statuettes of the twelve apostles. Higher up, in
the recesses of the long sides, enamels illustrating episodes in the life of
St. Remi are imbedded. On the two ends, two enamels represent the Battle of
Tolbiac and the Baptism of Clovis.
117
Leave the Church of St. Remi by the western doorway, which faces the
Place de VHopital civil, cross the square, then turn to the right into the Rue
Simon. The entrance to the Hotel-Dieu Hospital is on the right.
The Hotel-Dieu
This hospital is installed in the buildings of the ancient Abbey of the
Benedictine monks of St. Remi who, for centuries, were the guardians of the
relics of the famous Bishop of Rheims.
During the invasion, at the time of the Revolution, the Abbey was trans-
formed into a military hospital, but it was only in 1827 that it became officially
the Hotel-Dieu, in place of the old Municipal Hospital {see " Palais de Justice,"
p. 93). The furnishings of the latter were then transferred to the Abbey
buildings, disaffected since the Restoration.
Of the ancient abbey, where Charles-le-Simple and the Due Robert were
proclaimed king, and where several archbishops were elected, only a few
vestiges remain. Damaged by the fires of 1098, 1481, and 1751, it was com-
pletely destroyed by the great conflagration of January 15, 1774. The present
abbey, rebuilt by Duroche, the King's architect, was scarcely finished when
the Revolution broke out.
Incendiary bombs dropped by German aeroplanes in August, 1916, de-
stroyed most of the buildings.
The monumental facade which faces the Court of Honour is Louis XVI. in
style.
The second court, that behind the main buildings, is bordered by a cloister
built by the Rheims architect, Nicolas Bonhomme, in the first part of the
18th century, in place of the 13th and 14th century cloister destroyed in 1707.
The buttresses of the side which abuts on the church of St. Remi, and those
of the opposite side, are 12th century.
The marble fountain with bronze furnishings, in the centre of the court,
was formerly in the Place St. Nicaise. It was erected in 1750 from designs
by Coustou.
THE CLOISTKK AND FOUNTAIN OF THE HOTEL-DIEU
118
THE GRAND STAIRCASE OF THE HOTEL-DIEU
Through the windows is seen the North Front of St. Remi.
At the back of the court, on the left, is an exceedingly fine Louis XVI.
staircase with wrought-iron handrail (photo above).
The Lapidary Museum, which was formerly in the crypt of the archi-
episcopal chapel (.see p. 65), was installed under one of the galleries of the
cloister in 1896. Of the tombstones, storied floor-tiles, and various carvings
which it contains, the most remarkable is the Tomb of Jovinus.
Consul in 367, Jovinus commanded the armies in Gaul, under the Em-
peror Julian, and successfully resisted three attempts at invasion by the Ale-
manni. As a Christian, he founded a basilica at Rheims.
The white marble tomb with carvings is apparently Graeco-Roman of the
3rd century, and dates back before the time of Jovinus, who died in 370. It
is possible that Jovinus had the first occupant of the tomb ejected, or that
he bought an old sarcophagus and had his own portrait affixed to it.
The chapel installed in the old library of the abbey contained some fine
Louis XVI. wood carvings (see photo below of the ruins of the chapel).
CHAPEL OF THE HOTEL-DIEU IN 1919
119
The chapter-house of the abbey, which served as a refectory, was rebuilt
about the end of the 12th century. With its pointed arches, it belonged to
the early period of Gothic architecture. The most remarkable portion was
the vestibule facing the cloister. The decoration of the lateral arcades of
the vestibule included Roman capitals, nearly all of which are intact (photo
below), and which are of great value from the standpoint of the history of
art and costumes. In the refectory were the Godard tables made out of a
single branch of a gigantic oak-tree from the forest of St. Basle. They were
given to the old Hotel-Dieu by Canon Godard, whose name is incrusted in
lead in the wood, as a rebus : Go, followed by the figure of a dart (French :
dard) .
Near the chapter-house, a round-arched chamber was all that remained of
the early portion of the abbey.
^
ROMAN CAPITALS IN THE VESTIBULE OF THE
CHAPTER-HOUSE
120
THE GRAND
I EtCASE
OF THE
HOPITAL
GENERAL
After visiting the Hotel-Dieu, follow the Rue Simon, which skirts the Ecole
de Medecine, then turn to the right into the Rue St. Remi. At the end of same,
tuke the Rue Gambetta on, the left, and follow it as far as the Hopital General
on the right.
The Hopital General
This is the old Order-House of the Jesuits, built at the beginning of the
17th century. The refectory is ornamented with rich woodwork and paint-
ings, by the Rheims artist Helart. Of greater interest is the library, situated
under the gables, and which is reached by a fine staircase. The room is
adorned with a profusion of wood-carvings and mouldings. Exceedingly fine
consoles carry the ceiling, whose carved panels are profusely ornamented with
crowns, polygons, florets and heads of angels. The oaken pilasters which
separate the bookshelves are decorated with a variety of leaves and flowers.
In spite of this wealth of ornament, the general effect is harmonious. The
recesses in the woodwork, opposite the dummy dormer-windows, were for
reading.
Ancient vines cover the walls of the chapel, near the entrance to the
hopital.
At the side of the Hopital General stands the Church of St. Maurice.
This church was entirely rebuilt by the Jesuits after the destruction of the
ancient edifice, which was one of the oldest in Rheims. Here may be seen
the Eagle Reading-Desk, a fine piece of 17th century wood-carving ; two
Louis XIV. portable iron desks and the paschal chandelier of carved wood ;
the 17th century confessionals of the lateral chapels, and in the sacristy re-
markable Louis XIII., hand-embroidered guipures of open-work designs, after
the style of the models by the Rheims artist, Georges Baussonnet.
Return to the Place du Parvis, in front of the Cathedral, via the Rue Gam-
betta and its continuation, the Rue Chanzy.
121
A VISIT TO THE B ATTLEFIEJLDS
AROUND RHEIMS
A thorough visit can he made in two days.
The Itinerary for each day is divided into two parts, to allow tourists to
return to Rheims for lunch.
r- . r» \ Morning PP- 122-133.
F,r8t ° ay j Afternoon PP- 134-159.
, „ \ Morning PP- 160-165.
Second Day - ^^ pp _ ^^
122
FIRST DAY
MORNING
THE MOUNTAIN OF RHEIMS
(See the complete Itineraries on />. 121, and the summary of the war
operations on p. L31.)
REIMS
Gueux
OO Kilometres
This part of the Itinerary will take the tourist to the most important
points of the last German offensive of 1918, which aimed at the capture of
Rheims.
Starting from the Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier, op-
posite the Cathedral, turn to the right into the Rue Chanzy, follow same as far
as the Rue de Vesle, take the latter on. the left, and follow it to the end.
After the Porte de Paris (see p. 68) the Rue de Vesle becomes the Avenue
de Paris. Take same, but after passing under the railway bridge, turn to the
left into the Avenue d'Epernay (R.N. 51, see plan, p. 121).
Take the second street on the right (Rue de Bezannes) , which passes in front
of the Western Cemetery, devastated by the bombardments.
The road crosses numerous lines of trendies and boyaux, which defended
the immediate approaches to Rheims.
123
Before reaching Bezannes village, leave on the right two roads which skirt
a large estate enclosed with railings, go straight on to the ruined railway-
station of Bezannes, then turn to the right.
Bezannes
(See Itinerary p. 122.)
• Cross the first group of half-ruined houses, then, on reaching a second
group, which forms the main part of the village, turn to the left into the first
street encountered, where the partially destroyed church stands.
The round-vaulted apse, tower, nave and aisles all belong to the Roman-
esque period. The Gothic doorway is 13th, and the spire of the belfry 15th
century.
The square tower greatly resembles the old belfry on the doorway of St.
Remi Church in Rheims, and, like the latter, dates apparently from the middle
of the 11th century.
The Gothic doorway of the west front is set up against a Romanesque
wall. The gable has been rebuilt in modern times. Vestiges of an ancient
portal are to be found on each side of the doorway. The keystones of the
arch above the tympanum, like those of the upper arching, are numbered in
Roman figures, a peculiarity rarely to be found.
Facing the doorway of the church, on the left of the great entrance-door
to a court, is a niche containing a 16th century stone statue representing a
bishop wearing a chasuble.
In the court of the same house, over the door of the main structure, on
the right, in an arched Renaissance niche, hollowed out and ornamented
with marble incrustations, is the statue of a canon with folded hands
kneeling at the foot of a cruci-
fixion.
A shell-splinter took off the head
of the bishop's statue, but the other
group is intact.
Those interested in things pre-
historic, may visit the Pistat
Collection at Bezannes, which con-
tains a great number of interest-
ing specimens belonging to the
stone and neolithic ages, and to
the Gallic and Roman periods of the
region.
Of the old castles of Bezannes,
nothing of interest remains.
On September 11, 1914, during
the Battle of the Marne, the Ger-
man Staff took up their quarters
in the house of M. Poullot. On the
12th, the battle attained the vicinity
of the village.
Skirt the church, and at the
cross-roads at the end of the village,
keep straight on, past the cemetery
on the right.
CHURCH OF BEZANNES IN 1914
124
The road climbs a small hill lined with trenches, then descends to the vil-
lage of Les Mesneux.
It the entrance to this village {which is of no particular interest) turn to
the right, and at the fork about fifty yards farther on, to the left, leaving the
unmetalled road on the right.
About half-a-mile from Les Mesneux and shortly before reaching the cross-
ing with the road to Rheims (G.C. 6), there is a small wood at the place called
Le Champ Clairon. Il was from here that German batteries under Colonel
von Roeder fired on Rheims on September 4, 1914, in spite of the protestations
of the Mayor of l.<-s Mesneux, who assured the German commander that the
French troops had completely evacuated the town.
At the crossing with G.C. 6, keep straight on to Ormes, whose church, at
the entrance to the village, was almost entirely destroyed.
Ormes
(See Itinerary, p. 122.)
This village, in addition to numerous subterranean passages and chambers,
possesses the interesting 12th century Church St. Remi (photo below).
Its circular apse with cornice resting on corbels is barrel-vaulted. Colon-
nettes in the great bays of the steeple (in ruins) carry carved 12th century
capitals.
The pointed vaulting of the southern transept is 12th century, and the
ogival groining rests on Norman capitals. The doorway of the western facade
dates from the second half of the 12th century, and although its porch was
destroyed in 1853 it is still remarkable.
THE CHURCH OF ORMES
125
THE INSIDE OF ORMES CHURCH
It comprises three tierce-pointed arcades surmounted by a line of billet-
moulding. The lateral arcades are blind, while the higher central arcading
around the door is surmounted with three receding tori resting on crocketted
foliate capitals. The lateral arcades have similar capitals but only one
torus.
Inside the church are interesting 16th century statues; St. Barbara in
stone and St. Catharine, painted and decorated, face the altar ; St. Remi in
stone, remarkable for its costume and decoration, stands above the altar of the
northern chapel; a wooden Virgin surmounts the inner doorway.
ALTAR-SCREEN OF THE CHOIR
126
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THE ROAD FROM RHEIMS TO .IOUY, NEAR THE
LATTER VILLAGE
Note the camouflaging.
Return by the same road to the crossing with the road to Rheims (G.C. 6),
where, opposite the Cafe du Joyeux Laboureur, turn to the right.
The road rises towards the Mountain of Rheims. Of the camouflaging
seen in above photograph, only traces remain.
Shortly after, the tourist passes between the villages of Jouy and Pargny,
whose houses border the road. Jouy (on the left) and Pargny (on the right)
were bombarded by the Germans in June, 1915.
The Church of Jouy, visible from the road to Rheims, was almost entirely
destroyed.
To visit the church of Pargny, turn to the right opposite the grocery stores,
No. 262, then take the second street on the left (near a fine mansion partly in
ruins).
About 100 yards further on is the church, the belfry of which was destroyed.
Return to the crossing with the main road to Rheims, ivhere turn to the right.
The road continues to climb the northern slopes of the Mountain of Rheims.
On a bill to the left, the Chapel of St. Lie dominates the surrounding plain.
There is a very fine view of Rheims from here.
The top of the rise is reached soon afterwards. Descend the southern slopes,
passing between the sidings of an important material and ammunition depot
situated on the reverse side of the mountain out of sight of the enemy's
observation-posts. On reaching the crossing half-way down the hill, leave on
the left the two roads leading respectively to Ville Dommange and Courmas.
A short distance further on, after passing the road to Onrezy (on the left),
take the following narrow road on the left, which passes between clumps of trees
that were cut to pieces by shell-fire.
A little further on, on the right, is a cemetery containing the graves of some
two hundred French, British and Italian soldiers.
Turn to the right after the cemetery. The road crosses a fine avenue bor-
dered with shell-torn poplar trees, leading to the Castle of Commetreuil on
the left. The village of Bouilly is reached soon afterwards.
127
THE END OF BOUILLY VILLAGE
(going towards St. Euphraise) .
Bouilly — St. Euphraise — Clairizet
{See pp. 131-132, and Itinerary, p. 122.)
Bouilly was burnt by the Germans on September 12, 1914, under the
pretext that the inhabitants had caused the death of two Uhlans killed the
day before by French Chasseurs.
Turn to the right opposite the Church of Bouilly. There is a small ceme-
tery on the right, just outside the village, containing several German graves.
On reaching G.C. 6, leading to Rheims, turn to the right. Take the first
road on the left, which passes through a small devastated wood, where batteries
of guns were posted. Cross a small stream, and immediately afterwards the
railway, then turn to the left into the village of St. Euphraise.
Turn to the right in the village, opposite the church. The road rises steeply
to the hamlet of Clairizet, which was almost entirely destroyed. Pass by
a " Calvary," composed of four large trees surrounding a cross, then turn to
the left into a small narrow street.
RUINED CHURCH OF ST. EUPHRAISE
128
COULOMMES VILLAGE SEEN FROM THE CHURCH
Coulommes-la-Montagne — Vrigny
(See Itinerary, p. 122.)
The road rises, then descends to Coulommes-la-Montagne. Turn to the
right at the entrance to the village. The church, in ruins, is on the left.
At the cross-roads just outside the village take G.C. 26 on the left. At
first, the road dips rather abruptly, then rises to Vrigny.
The Church of Vrigny, entirely in ruins, is on the right at the entrance to
the village. Pass the town hall, leaving a public washing-place on the left,
then turn to the right.
On leaving the village, take G.C. 26 on the left to the village of Gueux.
V- ~ V^TT' >'%«&** W5T* ' t
>• --*^»'
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT VRIGNY
129
RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF CUEUX IN 1918
Gueux
(See pp. 131-132 and Itinerary, p. 122.)
Gueux is a small old-world village, with ancient houses, castle and church.
At the entrance to the village, a large square with trees, cut to pieces and
devastated by the bombardment.
From the square, go to the Church On the right, now a heap of ruins. Seen
through the trees from the square it forms a pitiful sight.
In the chapel, on the left of the main entrance, there was a fine piece of
Renaissance carving.
It was to Gueux that the Archbishop of Rheims, Mgr. Lugon, betook
himself after the bombardments of April, 1917. The village cemetery contains
GUEUX CHURCH IN 1917
Cardinal LuQOti coming out of the Church {see above).
130
THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF GUEUX
many soldiers' graves. The Cardinal-Archbishop of Rheims presided at a
pathetic ceremony held during the War in honour of the dead.
To visit the Castle, cross the square and take a small street on the left,
which leads to the road to Rosnay (G.C. 27).
Turn to the left, and fifty yards further on take on foot the narrow street
on the left, which leads to the old castle.
This ancient castle, where the Kings of France, on their way to Rheims to
be consecrated, used to dine, suffered severely from the bombardments. Out-
wardly it has, however, retained its general appearance (photo above).
Return to the car, and go straight on to the fork in the roads to Rosnay and
Premecy. Facing the fork is the entrance to the park and modern Castle of
Gueux, belonging to the Roederer family, which was completely destroyed
(photo below).
Turn the car round at the above-mentioned fork and continue straight along
G. C. 27.
Beyond the village of Gueux the road crosses numerous lines of trenches.
Many shelters and ammunition depots can still be seen along the road. The
National Road from Rheims to Soissons (N. 31) is reached soon afterwards.
Near the cross-ways are the ruins of an inn.
At this crossing, leave the National Road on the left and take the narrow
road on the right which leads to Thillois.
THE MODERN CASTLE OF GUEUX
131
CROSSING OF THE THILLOIS AND RHEIMS ROADS
Thillois
(See Itinerary, p. 122.)
The Church of Thillois (late 12th century), now a heap of ruins, stood
at the entrance to the village.
In 1914 it was still intact in all its vital parts. Its vaulting was pointed,
with groining resting on columns, whose capitals were either Romanesque or
Gothic. The nave had a timber roof.
The high-altar screen was a fine piece of sculptured stone-work of late
16th or early 17th century. In a niche above the altar, the Virgin, sitting on
an X-shaped seat, was holding Jesus, clothed in a tunic and standing on her
knee.
Leaving the church behind on the right, turn to the left, to reach the
National Road. On the right is a small 18th century castle, behind a clump of
fine stately trees, known as the Bosquet de Thillois. It was destroyed by shells.
Return to the National Road, turn to the right at the cross-roads, leaving on
the left the road to Champigny, then return direct to Rheims, entering the city
by the Avenue and Porte de Paris.
The Mountain of Rheims Battles
(See p. 14 and p. 122.)
The fighting known as the Battles of the Mountain of Rheims took place in
1918 over the whole of the area described above, i.e. from Bouilly to Thillois,
via St. Euphraise, Coulommes, Vrigny and Gueux (see the Michelin Illustrated
Guide: The Second Battle of the Marne).
The Mountain of Rheims prolongs the region of Tardenois to the east.
Il is an important military position between the Vesle and the Marne, as it
dominates the plain of Champagne. The higher part of it is finely wooded,
while on the lower slopes and eastern and southern edges are the famous
Champagne vineyards (see Verzenay, pp. 171-172).
132
190
Treslon
O
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.•>'/'_. Cermiqny ;
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rourcy .7/ yv
During the year 1918 the Germans made tremendous efforts to carry this
position, the loss of which would have meant the fall of Rheims, leaving
Epernay and Chalons-sur-Marne unprotected.
Although held to the east of Mountain, they obtained important successes
on the west, where they reached the Marne, while in May they occupied the
Woods of Courton and Le Roi. In July they crossed the Marne and advanced
as far as Montvoisin, on the road to Epernay. Very fierce fighting took place,
especially to the north-west of the Mountain at Bouilly, Bligny, St. Euphraise
and Vrigny. These positions, and Hill 240 to the west of Vrigny, were several
times lost and recaptured by the Allied troops under General Berthelot, French,
Italian and British, who fought there side by side.
Vrigny was taken by the Germans on May 30, but retaken by the Allies
on June 1 at the point of the bayonet. The same evening, four German
regiments, after progressing slightly in the direction of Hill 240, were first
checked, then driven back after bitter hand-to-hand fighting.
On June 9, the Germans were repulsed around Vrigny, after having sus-
tained severe losses. On the 23rd, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by Italian
troops, reaching the summit, but were shortly afterwards driven back. On
the 29th, they sustained a like check at the same place.
In July they advanced their lines slightly toward Marfaux, Pourcy and
Cuchery, but were unable to hold the captured ground. On the 18th, the
Italians advanced in the region of Bouilly. On the 19th, Franco-British troops
progressed towards St. Euphraise. On the 21st, the Allies carried Bouilly
and St. Euphraise. On the 24th and 25th, in spite of desperate repeated
efforts, the Germans were unable to hold Hill 240 which they had temporarily
133
captured. On August 1 further enemy efforts to carry the Bligny uplands
failed.
The region of Gueux— Thillois— Champigny was terribly ravaged by the
war.
On September 11. 1914, the French 5th Division, under General Mangin,
drove the enemy from these positions, which remained in the French lines
until May 30, 1918. Occupied by the Germans on May 31, after fierce
fighting, they were completely devastated by artillery fire. Retaken by the
French, then lost again in July, Thillois was finally recaptured on August 2,
at the same time as Gueux.
On August 4, after having reached the Vesle at several points east of
Fismes, French troops engaged a vigorous battle between Muizon and
Champigny, and some of them succeeded in crossing the river the same day.
Champagne Wine
Wine-growing has always been a favourite industry in this part of France.
The vineyards extend over the Rheims hills and along the valley of the Marne.
In the hilly country around Rheims there are two distinct growths of wine:
the Montague proper, with its famous Verzy, Verzenay, Mailly, Ludes, Rilly
and Fillers " crus," and the Petite Montague with its secondary " crus " of
the Tardenois Valley, Hermonville Hills, St. Thierry, Nogent I'Abbesse and
Cernay-les-Reims. The Montague produces more especially black grapes for
white wines.
Champagne wines were famous as far back as the 16th and 17th centuries.
Henri IV. had a marked preference for the wines of Ay. The magnitude of
the cellars still to be seen in the 16th and 17th century houses testifies to the
importance of a trade, whose main outlets were Paris, Flanders, Belgium and
Germany.
The Champagne wines of that period were red, and rivals of the famous
Burgundy wines.
The vogue of Champagne wines as understood to-day dates back to the
end of the 17th century. It was Dom Perignon, cellarer of the Abbey of
Hautevillers, near Epernay, who, if not actually the inventor of sparkling
wines, first undertook to perfect them by blending the " crus " and preparing
them with greater care.
In the last years of the reign of Louis XIV., and still more so under the
Regency, the use of Champagne at Court gained ground, especially at the
tables of the Due de Vendome and the Marquis de Sillery.
At that time Champagne was merely a " creamy " wine, i.e., semi-sparkling.
The low breaking strain of the glass of those days would not have allowed
of the higher pressure (six atmospheres) of the present-day wine. The
discovery of the chemist Francois, who in 1836 at Chalons invented a special
" densimeter," made it possible to calculate the amount of carbonic acid gas
contained in the must, and to proportion the expansive force of the wine to the
strength of the bottles, thus reducing losses by breakage, which for long had
been very serious.
From the 19th century onwards, the production of Champagne wine has
grown unceasingly. The number of bottles of sparkling Champagne placed on
the market for sale in France and abroad rose from 19,145,481 (of which
16,705,719 went abroad) between April, 1875, and April, 1876, to 33,171,395
(of which 23,056,847 went abroad) between April, 1906 and April, 1907. During
the first ten months of 1915, the exports of Champagne and sparkling wines
were 630,140 wine-quarts, as against 1,092,660 wine quarts in 1914.
134
FIRST DAY (Continued)
AFTERNOON
ST. THIERRY HEIGHTS— LE GODAT— THE GLASS-WORKS OF
LOIVRE— BRIMONT— THE " CAVALIERS DE COURCY "
(See complete Itineraries, />. 121. and summary of the military operations,
pp. 147 and 154.)
/^Haubette 'iVs)
135
Starting from the Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame, follow the morning's Itinerary
(p. 122) as far as the railway bridge, then continue straight along the Avenue
de Paris </V. 31). Before leaving Rheims the tourist can, if desired, visit
Haubette Park. In this case, turn to the left, opposite No. 10, Avenue
de. Paris, into the Rue Flin des Oliviers. The entrance to Haubette Park
(an annex of the Calmette Dispensary) stands at the beginning of this street,
on the right.
Napoleon I. bivouacked in this park while his troops attacked Rheims in
1814. A monument and a small museum commemorate the event. At the
end of 1914 Haubette Park was a favourite recreation ground and refuge
for the inhabitants of the city during the bombardments.
Return to the function of N. 31 (which leads to Fismes) with G.C. 6 (the
road to Ville-en-Tardenois) . Take N. 31 on the right. About 1 km. from the
fork take the first road on the right.
On reaching Tinqueux turn to the left at the entrance to the village, and
follow the main road.
Tinqueux — Mont St. Pierre
The church of Tinqueux (St. Peter's) was entirely destroyed. It contained,
on the left side of the nave, a remarkable 16th century painting on wood,
representing the Adoration of the Shepherds, with a frame of the same
period.
Near the church, between the Vesle and the main street of the village, stood
an old baronial mansion, in front of which was a building with turreted fagade
known as the Maison de la Salle. Inside the buildings which, in later years,
served as a farm, there was a curious old wooden staircase with railed
balustrade. The whole was destroyed by the shells.
In September, 1914, at the beginning of the bombardment of Rheims,
many of the people took refuge at Tinqueux.
At the end of the main street of the village, opposite a kind of observation-
post with ladder in a tree, turn to the right. The road passes at the foot of
Mont St. Pierre, whose village and church entirely disappeared in the 17th
THE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VII.I.ACE
136
century. Ii was t" replace the church of Mont St. Pierre that the church of
St. Pierre de Tinqueux ua^ buill al the end of the 17th century.
The road turns abruptly and actus the / esle. Turn to the right and cross
tin- rivet in reach St. Brice.
St. Brice — Champigny — Merfy
(See Itinerary, p. 134.)
Turn In the right at the entrance to the tillage and take the first street on
the right, which leads to the church.
The Church of St. Brice was almost enlirely destroyed. In style, it is
THE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPICNY
Romanesque, with Renaissance doorway and aisles. The door of the west
front contains interesting carvings — unhappily much mutilated.
Return by the same way to the cross-roads in front of the bridge over the
Vesle, turn to the right, then, about 150 yards further on, to the left. Continue
straight ahead, cross the raihvay (L.C.) and follow the railway on the left.
About half a mile further on an avenue on the right leads to the Chateau
de la Malle. Both the castle and grounds were badly damaged by the bom-
bardment.
Standing in the park with magnificent avenues of beech-trees, the castle
is one of the most ancient manors in the vicinity of Rheims. It was rebuilt
in one story at the beginning of the 14th century on the old foundations.
The decoration of the interior (Louis XVI.) is interesting. The drawing-
room has retained its old wainscoting and paintings. A carved shield bearing
137
the arms of the Cauchon family, a member of which, the Bishop of Beauvais,
sided with the English and the Duke of Burgundy against the Dauphin of
France and Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years' War, is still to be seen
over a door of one of the out-buildings.
Return by the same road to the Vesle. Cross the river and follow it (as per
Itinerary, p. 134) , to the village of Champigny.
Cross straight through the village by the main street, at the end of which
s:ands the church in a narroiv by-street near the entrance to a park {photo
p. 136) .
The little church of St. Theodule is 12th century, except the wooden belfry,
which was modern. The belfry and roof were destroyed.
MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE CERMANS INTO
A BLOCKHOUSE
Gen. Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914.
On leaving the village, go straight ahead. The road (G.C. 75) folloivs the
railway on the left. Cross the railway (L.C.). The road passes along the
marshy valley of the Vesle, then rises towards the St. Thierry Heights.
At the cross roads of the hamlet of Maco, keep straight on along G.C. 26.
The road runs between two fairly high embankments containing numerous
shelters. Slightly before entering the village of Merfy is a cemetery con-
taining graves of French, British and German soldiers.
At the entrance to the same village, on the right, stands a castle, severely
damaged, which, early in September, 1914, served as headquarters to General
Foch (photo above).
A little farther is the church, almost entirely destroyed.
At the church, turn to the right and follow the main street, which is lined
with houses in ruins.
On leaving Merfy, cross the railway (L.C.\. The village of St. Thierry
is reached shortly afterwards.
138
ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGE
The sign and camouflaging are German.
ST. THIERRY CHATEAU IN 1914
ST. THIERRY CHATEAU IN 1919
139
ST. THIERRY CHURCH
(.See other photos, p. 140.)
St. Thierry
(See Itinerary, p. 134, and summary of the Military Operations, p.
147.)
This village was frequently bombarded by the Germans from 1914 to 1918.
It is crossed by a narrow, ivinding street containing several sharp turnings.
Shortly before the end of the village, the street widens abruptly. About a hun-
dred yards further on is the church, while on the right a monumental door gives
access to the Chateau of St. Thierry (photos p. 138).
This castle was built in 1777 by Mgr. de Talleyrand-Perigord, Archbishop
of Rheims. It replaced the ancient abbey founded in the 6th century by St.
Thierry, a disciple of St. Remi. Remains of the 12th century chapterhouse,
ogives, colonnettes and capitals, as well as an old chimney-piece, have been
rebuilt into the kitchens. The spacious Louis XVI. drawing-room and the
dining-room were likewise remarkable.
The church (see photos above and on p. 140) possessed certain remarkable
features, e.g. the porch, nave and organ-loft. The 12th century porch had a
17th century pent-house roof.
Inside the church were Gothic stalls, and a 16th century bas-relief depicting
The Martyrdom of St. Quentin.
The church is now in ruins.
Opposite the castle gate turn to the left into G.C. 26.
In the embankments along the road are numerous shelters, posts of com-
mandment, ammunition depots, etc.
110
ST. THIERRY
CHURCH
t.s\v p. 139)
RUINED PORTAL
OF ST. THIERRY
CHURCH
RUINS
OF CHOIR,
ST. THIERRY
CHURCH
141
RUINS OF
THIL CHURCH
Thil — Villers-Franqueux
(See Itinerary, p. 134.)
On reaching Thil, turn to the left at the entrance to the village. Go straight
through.
The church, entirely in ruins, stands at the end of the village, on a small
eminence to the right.
Half-way through the village, on the left, is a road which leads to the St.
Thierry Fort, via the village of Pouillon.
The road from Thil to Cormicy was the starting-point of the communicating
trenches which led to the first lines along the National Road No. 44 and along
the canal from the Aisne to the Marne, during the long stabilisation period
of the Berry-au-Bac — Rheims front. All along the road can still be seen,
practically intact, the military works which were in the immediate rear of
the front lines, viz., posts of commandment, depots, shelters, etc. At the
present time, close to the destroyed villages, these shelters are being used by
the people as habitations.
Beyond Thil, the road passes between two embankments. Villers-Fran-
queux is soon reached. The ruined village and church are somewhat to the
right.
RUINS OF
VILLERS-
FRANQUEUX
142
RUINED
CHURCH OF
HERMONVILLE
Hermonville
Follow the rails, straight ahead, to Hermonville.
Turn to the left, at the entrance to the village, into the large square, on the
opposite side of which stands the Town Hall, partially destroyed. The
Church is on the right.
This remarkable church is 12th century. The pointed vaulting of the
nave was raised in 1870, but this had been provided for in the original plans.
At the intersection of the transept the pointed vaulting is lower. The capitals
with their finely carved palm-leaves appear to be rather more recent than
those of the nave, and extend frieze-like round the pillars. The bays of the
transept-arms and of the two square eastern chapels are round-arched and
surmounted with a quatre-foil — an arrangement frequently met with in the
vicinity of Rheims.
The outer porch, like that of Cauroy-les-Hermonville and St. Thierry, is a
12th century addition. The depressed arch of the entrance is 17th century.
The square tower at the corner of the nave and south transept has cubic
capitals in the twin bays of the second storey.
The ancient cemetery, which used to surround the church, is bordered
by old houses. Entrance was gained by a little gate facing the porch, in
which are incrusted fragments of a 15th century altar-screen representing a
horseman and a group of persons.
The village was frequently bombarded by the Germans after the Battle of
the Marne. In 1916 several inhabitants were killed by shells.
Leave the church on the right, and follow the Rue Sebastopol, at the end of
ivhich is an abrupt turning to the left. The road skirts a large house and gar-
den surrounded by a wall. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the
Rue de Sommerville. On leaving the village, turn to the left, then go straight
on to Cauroy-les-Hermonville.
143
CAUROY
CHURCH
IN 1914
Cauroy-les-Hermonville
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village, then into the first street on
the left, where stands the half-destroyed Church of Notre-Dame.
This Church (historical monument) has an original 12th century porch,
which was mutilated by the bombardments.
Romanesque in style, it stands out from the remainder of the building
and extends over the whole breadth of the west front. Its tile-covered roof
rests on a timber-work frame, whose beams appear to be 16th century. Two
round-arched openings in the ends of the porch serve as entrances. The
front is pierced with a number of round arcades. The central door giving
access to the church is of a later date (16th or 17th century). The capitals
of the arcadings are 12th century. Their curious decoration represents figures
of men, animals, birds, scrolls, etc.
The ruined tower and nave were likewise 12th century. The side-chapels,
transept-crossing and choir were rebuilt in the 16th century.
CAUROY
CHURCH
IN 1918
I It
STREET IN CAUKOY VILLAGE
(seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy,
take this street opposite the Church.)
In the interior of the church, the wooden altar-screen over the high-altar
dated from 1616. The painting which decorated its central panel, and the side
wood-work of the choir were removed in 1888. The altar-screen (1547) of the
southern side-chapel was composed of an assemblage of stone statues repre-
senting The Virgin carrying Jesus, St. Roch, a pilgrim, and St. Stephen, a
deacon, with the donor kneeling at his feet.
Under several of the houses in the village are subterranean passages, the
most noteworthy being that under the old presbytery on the left of the church,
to which access is gained by a stair of fifty-one steps.
Leave the village of Cauroy by the street (photo p. 145) which opens up
opposite the church.
The road passes through clumps of devastated trees. On the left side of
the road is a cemetery, containing numerous well-organised shelters. The village
of Cormicy is next reached.
Cormicy
(See Itinerary, p. 134.)
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village. On either side are tree-
lined boulevards, which were made on the ancient ramparts. The trees have
been cut to pieces by the shells.
Cormicy was formerly a small fortified town with turret, gates, ramparts
and moats, all of which have disappeared except one gate. The site was
planted with trees, which surround practically the whole town. The town
was destroyed in the time of Charles VI., during the Hundred Years' War.
The present village suffered severely during the German bombardments,
most of the houses being damaged. In June, 1916, only eighty-three inhabi-
tants remained in their homes.
145
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914
The ancient Church was likewise badly damaged (photos above and below).
While the tower, west front, and the two first bays of the nave are late 15th
or early 16th century, the greater part of the nave is 11th or 12th century.
The chevet and the transept-crossing are early 13th century, while the transept
ends probably date from the middle of 12th century.
The portal comprises twin doors surmounted with a broad flamboyant
recess. The doors have been partially mutilated. Above the window
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918
116
C.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVINC CORMICY
{See Itinerary, p. 134.)
runs a balcony, the Gothic balustrade of which, known as the Gloria Gallery,
was modern. This balustrade was destroyed by the bombardments, which
also brought down the steeple.
The west front has two Gothic doors with 16th century iron-work, at the
extremity of the aisles. The tympana of these doors, formerly lighted, have
been bricked up. The lintels have three consoles ornamented with fantastic
animals and banderoles. Three statues which carried the consoles have long
since disappeared.
In the south transept on the left, behind the altar, is an interesting small
door surmounted with a square lintel of the 11th or 12th century. Two figures
of winged monsters with heads of a man and a woman and fish tails, stand
out in high relief, framed and separated by a belt, on which are carved florets
mingled with fantastic figures.
The three remarkable 18th century marble altars of the choir and transept
chapels come from the Church of the Nuns of Longueau, the abbey of which,
in the Rue du Jard at Rheims, was sold in 1790. The high-altar occupies
nearly the whole of the chancel. Over the tomb, six columns of grey Dinant
marble, crowned with Corinthian capitals, support an oval marble cornice
with richly carved and gilt consoles of wood. The very large, white and gilt
tabernacle is a fine example of 17th or 18th century wood-work. Its door,
decorated with symbolic attributes, is surrounded by statuettes depicting.
in the lower part, St. John the Evangelist and a holy woman wearing crowns;
above each of these figures, an angel; at the top, The Resurrection ol
Christ.
The sixteen carved oak stalls of the choir, as well as the wrought-iron
reading-desk on a marble pedestal, also came from the former Abbey of
Longueau.
Near the choir, on a pillar of the nave, is an inscription to the effect that
the chronicler Flodoard, who died in 966, was Cure of Cormicy.
The modern Town Hall, built by the Rheims architect, Gosset the elder,
which faced the church, was entirely destroyed.
147
All the places visited since leaving Merfy, i.e. St. Thierry, Thil, Villers-
Franqueux, Hermonville and Cormicy, border the St. Thierry Heights. The
latter are commanded by the fort of the same name and the Chenay Redoubt,
with altitudes of about 670 and 620 feet respectively. They were recaptured
from the Germans after the Battle of the Marne on September 11th, 1914, by
the French 3rd Corps.
After the loss of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal on May 27,
1918, this position, which with its guns commands the road and railway
from Rheims to Soissons and the road from Rheims to Laon, remained the
sole protection of Rheims to the north-west.
It was defended by the French 45th Infantry Division (General Naulin),
composed of Algerian Sharp-shooters, Zouaves and African Light Infantry,
who held their ground on May 27-28, after which they were reinforced
by battalions of Singalese and Marines drawn from the sector east of
Rheims.
The struggle was a fierce one, and hand-to-hand fighting frequent. Finally
the constant inflow of German reserves forced back the French, who, on May
29, had to abandon the position, to which the enemy afterwards clung for
four months. On October 1 the Germans, beaten on the previous evening
by the French 5th Army on the high ground between the Aisne and Rheims,
was forced to retreat. The French regained possession of Merfy and St. Thierry,
and advanced as far as the outskirts of the Fort of St. Thierry, which, with
Thil and Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville, Couroy and Cormicy, fell into their
hands in the course of the next few days (see map above).
1-18
DESTROYED BRIDCE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE CODAT
From Cormicy to Godat Farm
(See Itinerary, p. 134.)
Pass straight through Cormicy, leaving the church on the left. Take G. C.
32 to the Rheims-Laon road (N. 44), where turn to the right. Rather less than
a mile further on, near the Maison Blanche, is a road leading to Godat Farm.
Cars can only go as far as the canal, the destroyed bridge {photo above) not
having yet been rebuilt. The lock4;eeper's house seen in the photograph below
was completely destroyed.
Cross the canal on foot to reach Godat Farm, situated about 300 yards
further on.
Le Godat, formerly a small fief with a castle and chapel (destroyed during
the Revolution in 1793), was merely a farm and a plain country house when
THE LOCK-KEEPER S HOUSE AT LE CODAT
(Now destroyed.)
149
s
• *; .
RUINS OF LE GODAT FARM
the war broke out. By reason of its position, north of the Aisne Canal,
this bridgehead was, throughout the war, one of the most fiercely disputed
points in the sector north-west of Rheims, even during the period of trench-
warfare. At the time of the French offensive of April, 1917, the 44th Infantry
Regiment advanced beyond Le Godat, where the French held their ground
until the powerful German push of May 27, 1918.
The farm is now a mere heap of ruins. Shelters still exist in the basements.
Return to the National Road, and turn to the left.
The road crosses numerous boyaux which provided access to the front-line
trenches down the hill on the right.
Follow the National Road to Chauffour Farm (in ruins), where take the
road on the left to Loivre.
On nearing the canal, the ruins of the village of Loivre (entirely destroyed)
become visible.
EMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVRE
150
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRE
From Loivre to Brimont
Loivre. — Visit the village on foot. The canal can only be crossed near the
lock south-east of the village. The destroyed bridge has been replaced by a
temporary footway across the bed of the canal, which necessitates climbing
down and up the banks by steep paths.
After crossing the canal the tourist passes by the ruins of the Loivre Glass-
Works, founded in 1864 by the descendants of the noble house of Bigault de
Crandrupt, glass manufacturers of Argonne.
Loivre and its glass-works were occupied in September, 1914, by the Ger-
mans, who deported the inhabitants to the Ardennes. The village and works
GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919
151
SEPULCHRE
IN THE
CEMETERY
AT LOIVRE,
USED BY THE
GERMANS AS A
PHOTOGRAPHIC
DARK-ROOM
were re-captured during the offensive of April 16, 1917, by the French 23rd
and 133rd Infantry Regiments, surnamed Les Braves and Les Lions respec-
tively. Whilst other battalions outflanked the village and crossed the canal,
the third battalion of Lions attacked it in front. The position, powerfully
organised, was stoutly defended. The attacking troops were obliged to come
to a halt in front of the cemetery (a veritable bastion with concrete casemates),
and before the ruins of the mill, both of which bristled with machine-guns.
Withdrawing slightly to allow of a barrage of 75's, they rushed forward again
under the protection of the latter. The site of the mill and the cemetery
were captured, together with numerous prisoners (122 were taken in one
machine-gun shelter) . The ruined village was next carried in a bayonet
charge, to the sound of the bugles. The captures were considerable, one
battalion of 500 men alone taking 825 prisoners.
In March and May, 1918, two violent attacks were made on Loivre by the
Germans, but without success. They took it on May 27, only to be driven
out on October 4.
Before the war, a road, which has since completely disappeared, led direct
from Loivre to Brimont. To reach the latter it is now necessary to go farther
north, via Bermericourt and Orainville, returning southwards by the Neufchdlel
to Rheims road (see Itinerary, p. 134) .
Bermericourt.— This hamlet, of Gallo-Frankish origin, was formerly more
populous. The bombardments have literally wiped it out.
From Bermericourt the tourist reaches Orainville by G.C. 30, which becomes
l.C. 2 after crossing the boundary line between the " departments " of the Marne
and the Ardennes. At the entrance to the ruined village, near the church, turn
to the right into l.C. 12, which, 1 kilometer further on, joins the road from
Ncufchdtel to Rheims {G.C. 9), where turn to the right.
Follow this road for four and a half kilometers to the ruins of Landau Farm,
turn to the right, then, about 200 yards further on, take the road on the left to
the village of Brimont, entirely destroyed.
152
ALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMERICOURT VILLACE
Brimont Fort and Chateau
(See Itinerary, p. 134, and summary of the Military Operations, p. 154.)
Situated to the west of the road from Rheims to Neufchatel (formerly a
Roman causeway which crossed the hill at Cran de Brimont) Brimont was
already important in Roman times. It was fortified in the Middle Ages,
and traces of its ancient fortifications are still to be found on the hill. The
discovery of a Roman tomb in 1790 caused considerable excitement in archaeo-
logical circles, as it was believed to be the burial-place of the Frankish Chief
Pharamond who, according to one chronicler, had been buried on a hillock
near Rheims.
In 1339, during the siege of Rheims by the English, the Duke of Lancaster
had his camp at Brimont.
RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGE
In the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of
the road to the Chateau {entirely destroyed.)
153
RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONT
On several occasions, since September, 1914, the Germans deported the
inhabitants of Brimont and Coucy to the Ardennes. The village is now
destroyed and its church a heap of ruins.
The church was built at the beginning of the 15th century.
The four last bays of the nave, which was partly Romanesque, were altered
in the middle of the 16th century.
The sacristy occupied the lower story of the square, pointed-arch tower.
Several ancient statues were placed at the entrance to the Choir: St.
Remi, with a woman in late 15th century dress kneeling at his feet; a Virgin
offering grapes to the infant Jesus in her arms (late 15th century) and a
large Christ Crucified, dated from the middle of the 16th century. A beautiful
18th century lectern of carved wood, representing an eagle standing on a
massive three-sided pedestal of red and white marble, stood in front of the
Choir.
BRIMONT FORT
i.l
To visit the Fort of Brimont, skirt the church on the side of the portal stair-
cose, then take the road seen on the photograph on p. 152. The Fort is about
100 yards furthei on.
The Defences North of Rheims and the Fighting
in that Sector
The Fort of Brimont, completed by the Battery of the Cran de
Brimont about a mile to the east, and on the west by the Loivre Battery,
mentioned on page 151, sweeps the whole country north of Rheims as far as
Warmenvilie
REIMS
The roads shown on the above map are those followed bv the Third Itinerary
(see p. 160.)
the banks of the Aisne, Suippe, Retourne and the Aisne-Marne canal, the
Rheims-Neufchatel, Rheims-Vouziers, Rheims-Rethel and Rheims-Laon roads,
and the Rheims-Laon and Rheims-Charleville railways. About five miles
east of Brimont and four miles east of Rheims is the position of Berru
(see p. 165), extending along a front of about six miles, via the hills of
Berru and Nogent l'Abbesse. Intended by those who planned it to guard
the valley of the Suippe, the Rheims-Rethe and Rheims-Vouziers roads, as
well as the Rheims-Charleville and Rheims-Chalons-sur-Marne railways, it
comprises the Fort of Witry (about 150 feet in altitude), the batteries of
La Vigie de Berru (870 feet), and the fort and batteries of Nogent-
l'Abbesse (670 feet).
Brimont and Berru are further covered and linked up by the Fort of
Fresne (360 feet), situated four miles north-east of Rheims.
155
These defensive works, conceived and executed after the war of 1870, had,
in consequence of the evolution of strategical and tactical doctrines, been
abandoned or disarmed before the war of 1914. After evacuating Rheims
on September 12, 1914, the Germans grasped the importance of these works,
to which they clung tenaciously, after hurriedly organising them. It was
against these naturally strong positions, further strengthed by trenches, that
the French 5th Army, in pursuit of the enemy, found themselves brought to a
standstill on the evening of September 12. From September 13 to 18, the
French tried in vain to capture them. The 5th Division, under General Mangin,
did succeed in capturing the Chateau de Brimont, in the plain, but were
unable to hold it.
Later, the Germans converted these hills into one of the most formidable
positions organised by them in France. Brimont, Berru, Fresne and Nogent
lAbbesse, whose guns slowly destroyed Rheims, were,' so to speak, her jailers
for four years.
In April, 1917, during the French offensive of the Aisne, one division,
known as the "Division of aces" (because its four regiments have the
fourragere decoration), penetrated into Bermericourt and advanced to the
outskirts of Brimont, but was unable to hold its ground against the furious
counter-attacks of the Germans. It was only in October, 1918, that the French
5th Army, in conjunction with the victorious attacks of the 4th Army in
Champagne, after forcing the Germans back to the Aisne and the canal, and
after crossing the Aisne canal on October 4 in front of Loivre and near
Bermericourt, forced the enemy, whose communications were now threatened,
to abandon one of the most valuable portions of his 1914 positions. On
October 5, the French re-entered Brimont and Nogent lAbbesse, progressed
beyond Bourgogne, Cernay-les-Rheims, Beine, Caurel and Pomade, and, in
spite of desperate enemy resistance, drove back the Germans to the Suippe.
After visiting the fort return to the village of Brimont.
From here the Chateau de Brimont may be visited, but this will have to be
done on foot as the road has been destroyed, traces only of it being left in
places (the lower photograph on p. 152 shows the beginning of the road in the
village) .
The Chateau de l'Ermitage, also known as the Chateau de Brimont, is
situated about 500 yards south of the village, at the entrance to a large park,
completely devastated. It was the scene of desperate fighting (see p. 152).
. Return to Brimont, cross the village (skirting the church) and continue
straight on to the Cran de Brimont Redoubt on the road to Rheims. Numerous
German trenches, etc., are to be seen here.
Turn to the right into G.C. 9, which dips down to the Plain of Rheims. The
region hereabouts bristle with barbed-wire entanglements and is crossed with
numerous trenches. It was ranged to an incredible degree by the bombard-
ments.
At the bottom of the hill which starts at the Cran de Brimont, cross Soulains
Wood, of which only a few torn tree-stumps remain.
Several hundred yards after leaving the wood, take on foot the broken road
to the " Cavaliers de Courcy," situated on the right, about 500 yards
further oji.
156
THE AISNE CANAL AT THE ' CAVALIERS DE COURCY
The " Cavaliers de Courcy "
To the north of La Neuvillette, the Aisne-Marne Canal is flanked on
both sides by enormous artificial embankments planted with fir-trees and
known as the " Cavaliers de Courcy." After their retreat in September, 1914,
the Germans entrenched themselves there and clung to the east bank until
April, 1917.
On April 16, 1917, the French 410th Regiment of the Line attacked
the enemy's formidable positions there. This Brittany regiment set out from
positions to which they had given names taken from the history of their country
(Quimper Bastion, Auray, Redon Bastion, etc.). On the first day they carried
three successive lines of defences, and advanced about a mile. On the 17th
and 18th they left their zone of action, to ensure the liaison on their right,
and to help a brigade in difficulties on their left. For eight days they held
their positions against powerful enemy counter-attacks, after having progressed
to a depth of two miles and captured more than 400 prisoners, 11 bomb-
throwers, and an immense amount of stores.
These positions, like the neighbouring villages, were re-taken by the
Germans in May and June, 1918, and finally by the Allies in October, 1918.
Return to the road and follow it towards Rheims. Leave on the left the devas-
tated Aviation-ground of Champagne — now in a state of complete upheaval,
due to the terrific shelling it received — then cross the Plain of Betheny {photo
p. 157).
The Plain of Betheny was the scene of two important historical events:
in 1901 the Tsar Nicolas II. reviewed a part of the French Army there ;
in August, 1909, the Great Aviation Week was inaugurated there, in the
presence of an immense crowd of spectators.
157
GERMAN
FIRST-LINE
POSITIONS IN
BETHENY
PLAIN
{see sketch-
map below)
Photographed at 7,000 it. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 30 a.m.
or^ eS
Trench
oulposi
^Shelters Iff feet j/eep connected
by subterranean tjalkr/es shown
Tiy dolled /tnes.
THE CERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BETHENY
The tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to
the bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above.
158
Pass under the Rheims-Laon railway by a very sharp double turning. Pier-
quin Farm, entirely destroyed, stood on the right a short distance further on.
The only remaining trace is the torn shapeless carcass of a large iron
shed.
The railway embankment south of Pierquin Farm was fiercely disputed
from September 18, 1914, onwards. Several enemy attacks against it broke
down before the French 75's. During the offensive of May, 1918, the whole
of this region was the scene of desperate fighting. La Neuvillette was taken
on May 30, and Pierquin Farm on the 31st. On August 4, the French, after
crossing the \isne Canal, advanced to La Neuvillette, where the enemy made
a desperate stand. At the beginning of October they advancd to the north of
La Neuvillette, which the enemy was eventually compelled to abandon. The
last inhabitants had left the locality on July 12, 1916.
The tourist enters Rheims by the Rue de Neujchdtel and the Avenue de
Laon.
La Neuvillette
On reaching the Avenue de Laon, the tourist, instead of entering Rheims,
may turn to the right and go northwards as far as the village and cemetery of
La Neuvillette.
The cemetery of La Neuvillette is on the right of the road, between the last
houses of Rheims and the village. It was completely cut up by a network of
first-line trenches (photos p. 159).
The village of La Neuvillette, now in ruins, was the scene of desperate
fighting during the German offensive of May, 1918.
Nothing remains of the 12th century church of John-the-Baptist.
The glass-works north-west of the village, by the side of the canal, are
now a heap of ruins (photo p. 159).
Return to Rheims by the same road.
THE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTE
159
■ . |
THE CLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTE
DRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTE
THE CEMETtiRY AT NEUVILLETTE
160
SECOND DAY
MORNING
FRESNES FORT— WITRY-LES-REIMS— BERRU—
NOGENT L'ABBESSE— BEINE
(See complete Itineraries, p. 121, and map on p. 154.)
This Itinerary will lead the tourist through the region of the Forts to the
north-east of Rheims, which formed the rear of the German lines during the
stabilisation period of 1914-1918.
It was this line of forts that, in the German hands, held the French in
check after the first Battle of the Marne. Practically the whole of these
works were but little damaged by the relatively light bombardments, and
have retained traces of the German organisation.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Laon (which begins at Les Pomenades,
opposite Mars Gate), and the Rue de Neufchdtel (second street on the right),
Sortie No. IX. of the Michelin Tourist Guide (see coloured plan, pp. 32-33) .
161
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURCOGNE
Follow in the contrary direction the route described in the preceding Itin-
erary (p. 134 to p. 159) as far as the crossing in the Bermericourt-Bourgogne
road, where stood Landau Farm, now entirely in ruins. At this crossing take
G.C. 30 on the right. German camouflaging is still visible on the right-hand side
of the road.
Bourgogne — Fresnes
The village of Bourgogne, entirely in ruins, is soon reached.
The village is of very ancient origin. Formerly it was protected by a
belt of moats, now partly filled in, and by earthern ramparts, almost every-
where levelled. The lines of these moats, planted with rows of elm-trees,
are clearly distinguishable. There is a very extensive view from this original
site.
A portion of the village was burnt by the Germans who, in 1916, destroyed
the belfry of the church with dynamite.
This church (dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul), with its fine Romanesque
tower, was remarkable.
The greater part of it dated from the 12th and 13th centuries. It is now
in ruins (photo above).
Cross straight through the village. Numerous German signs are still to be
seen. At the cross-roads just outside the village, follow the railway, then cross
it near the destroyed railway station of Fresnes. The village of Fresnes is
reached shortly afterwards.
Turn to the right at the first crossing met with. The church stands about
100 yards away, on the left.
Norman in style, the Church of Fresnes comprises a central nave with
aisles and a tower without transept. It dates back to the 12th century, but
was several times extensively altered and restored both in the 18th century
and in recent times.
A small porcli of limestone added to the northern aisle, is reached by a
162
HIM i ^H^\ 1
I
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1
-^^-•g* -^p^S*-^ '•f- *
f
RUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-RK.I MS
round Norman bay of stone. In the corner of the porch, to the left on entering,
is incrusted a fragment of a small funerary monument of the 16th century.
This church was almost entirely destroyed.
After turning to the right at the crossing mentioned above, keep straight on.
About 2 kilometers from Fresnes the road from that village to Witry-
les-Reims crosses an old Roman causeway, at the side of which, slightly to
the south of Hill 118. the Fort of Fresnes was built in 1878. This fort was
blown up by the Germans during their retreat in 1918. Its ruins are impressive.
In the moats of the fort are German trenches and shelters extending right up
to the walls of the fort.
The village of Witry-les-Reims is next reached. It suffered severely from
the numerous bombardments, which its situation near the first lines rendered
inevitable.
Witry-les-Reims
After crossing the railway (I. c.) at the entrance to the village, keep straight
on. The ruined church is on the left, near the entrance to the village.
Except for one tower which dates from the 12th century, the church is
modern. The spire was destroyed by the Germans. The belfry, used by the
enemy as an observation-post, was struck by French shells.
Like many of the villages around Rheims, Witry-les-Reims is of Gallo-
Roman origin. More than two hundred Gallic sepulchres and cinerary urns
have been brought to light. The objects thus discovered, including a large
number of vases, now form the Bourin pre-historic collection.
After visiting the church keep straight on. At the Mairie, of which only
the front remains standing, turn to the right into the Rue Boucton-Fayreaux.
Follow this street to the Place Gambetta {about 200 yards distant), where turn
to the left. The entrance to " Pommern Tunnel," which connected up the
German rear and front lines (photo, p. 163), is in this square.
The German inscriptions in the tunnel have been taken down, and the
entrance blocked up. on account of the roof and walls giving way.
163
ENTRANCE TO " POMMERN TUNNEL " AT WITRY-LES-REIMS
Leaving the Place Gambetta, take the Rheims-Rethel road {N. 51) on the
left, then the first street on the right to the Fort of Witry.
Just outside the village the road crosses the old Roman causeway from
Rheims to Treves, and a little further on passes to the left of the Fort of Witry.
The Fort of Witry suffered but little from the bombardments.
The road climbs the northern slopes of the Berru Hill, across numerous
German trenches. At the bottom of a short run-doivn, opposite the village of
Berru, is a crossing of four ways. The road leading to the fort is the one
straight ahead.
On the right, among the numerous defences, is a German cemetery con-
taining a monument to the dead, ornamented with somewhat rudimentary
carving and bearing an epitaph dedicated to the memory of the German
soldiers who fell in the battles around Rheims.
The road continues up the slopes of Berru Hill, to the right of the way lead-
ing to the auxiliary' battery of the fort of Vigie de Berru. The top of the hill
is soon reached, on which the fort, known as the " Vigie de Berru,"' stands.
This fort was little bombarded, and is practically intact.
Berru Hill, on account of its height, its sulphurous and ferruginous
waters, flint quarries, and fertile soil, was inhabited in pre-historic times. At
the summit, a campignien workshop, and farther down, above the springs which
supply the village with water, a neolithic station have been discovered.
Thousands of knives, arrow-heads, scrapers, saws, and other primitive tools
have been unearthed. In the Gallo-Roman times the village must have been
fairly important, judging by the vestiges of the ancient buildings discovered
at the foot of the hill. It was near Berru that the Gaulish helmet, now in the
National Museum of St. Germain, was found. Towards the end of the 16th
century (about 1575*. during the Leaguers' struggles around Rheims, the
village was fortified, to protect it from pillaging by the soldiers. The moats
and glacis which surrounded it are still visible to the south, where, covered
with trees, llie> adjoin the gardens. Subterranean places of refuge, the
entrance to which is no longer known, formerly existed underneath the village.
From the fort, the road winds down tin- opposite slopes of the hill. At
the bottom of the latter, leave on the right the road to the Fort of Nogent
1'Abbesse, sec// on the high ground to the right.
164
ENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L ABBESSE
Nogent 1'Abbesse — Beine — Berru
(See Itinerary, p. 160, and summary of the Military Operations, p. 154.)
The village of Nogent 1'Abbesse is next reached, at the entrance to which
the road divides into three branches. Take the middle one (G.C. 64), which
leads to the ruined village of Beine. During the run-down to the village, there
is a fine view of the Champagne Hills in front (Mont Cornillet and Mont Haut).
The village of Beine was one of the oldest demesnes belonging to the
Abbey of St. Remi-de-Reims. It was made into a commune at the end of the
12th century.
The church of St. Laurent, situated in the centre of the village, was an
excellent specimen of the transition style of the 12th century (photo below).
A road leading to Sillery leaves Beine in a south-westerly direction, but
owing to its bad condition it is impossible to use it for returning to Rheims.
RUINS OF THE CHLRCH AT BEINE
165
BERRU CHURCH
The trenches and shell holes have barely been filled in, and the temporary
bridges over the wider trenches would probably break down under a fairly heavy
car. On the other hand, the huge craters made by the Germans in the course
of their retreat, have only been summarily repaired and are not practicable
for motor-cars. Tourists should therefore return to Nogent VAbbesse by the
road they came by.
Enter the village by the main street, ivhich follow as far as the church, whose
belfry has been destroyed.
After the church, take the first street on the right, then the second road on
the left (G.C. 64), which leads to Berru. In front of the village, turn to the
left and cross straight through. The 12th century Church of St. Martin, which
suffered only slightly from the bombardments, is in the middle of the village,
on the left (photo above).
On leaving Berru, the tourist comes again to the crossing mentioned on
p. 163. Turn to the right and return to Witry-les-Reims by the road previously
followed.
At W r itry-les-Reims, take N. 51 on the left, passing by the ruined works of
Linguet (photo below).
Rheims is reached by the Faubourg Ceres. Keep straight on to the Place
Royale, via the Rue du Faubourg Ceres and the Rue Ceres.
RUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKS
166
SECOND DAY (Continued
AFTERNOON
LA POMPELLE FORT — SILLERY
(See complete Itinerary, p. 121.)
40 k,
TTer*
REIMS
NA*r A Butte de tir
F me de la Jouissance
Aub 3 '
d'Alcje
167
This Itinerary will take the tourist through two regions of entirely different
characters.
The first part is devoted to visiting the battlefield south-east of Rheims,
which was the scene of much desperate fighting throughout the war, but
especially in 1918. This region formed the pivot of the French right wing, and
remained firm despite the repeated powerful attacks of the enemy.
The second part of the Itinerary leaves the battlefield proper, and conducts
the tourist across the most reputed vine-growing centres of Champagne (Verze-
nay, Mailly-Champagne, and Ludes), through lovely, picturesque country, which,
although it has somewhat suffered from the bombardments, has nevertheless
retained its pre-war aspect.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Chalons, continued by N. 44 (see the plan
of Rheims between pp. 32 and 33, F. 6 and H. 1).
The Avenue de Chalons was well within the first-line defences.
Two communicating trenches run along the footpaths on either side of the
Avenue.
Skirt Pommery Park, on the left, completely ravaged by the bombardment
and the net-work of trenches which cross it.
As soon as the last houses of the town have been left behind, the tourist
finds himself in the midst of the battlefield.
The sector, known as " La Butte de Tir," situated on the left, below
Cernay and beyond the railway, was the scene of furious fighting throughout
the German occupation of 1914 to 1918 {photo below K
THE " BUTTE-DE-TIR " SECTOR
Listening-post in front of Cernay village.
108
J? v >* •..
COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)
The road crosses the Chalons Railway {I. c.) , and goes thence direct to the
Fort of La Pompelle, passing through an inextricable network of trenches
and barbed wire entanglements. The country hereabouts was completely
ravaged by the terriffic bombardments, and recalls the devastated regions
around Verdun, near Vaux and Douaumont (see the Michelin Illustrated Guide:
Verdun, and the Battles for its Possession) .
La Jouissance Farm is next passed. Nothing remains either of it or of
the road, which started from this point towards Cernay, on the left.
LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)
169
THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918*
The Fort of La Pompelle, ivhich is next reached, is now a mere heap of
ruins. The road which led to the fort no longer exists. To visit the ruins
of the fort, tourists will have to follow on foot the narroiv-gauge railway which
starts from the road (photo above).
Tradition has it that St. Timothy came from Asia to convert Rheims,
suffered martyrdom, together with St. Apollinaris and several companions, on
the hill known as La Pompelle, so-called perhaps from the procession (pompa
or pompella) which, in the Middle Ages, used to visit the place of martyrdom
of the saints.
This hill, which rises close to the crossing of the Rheims-St. Hilaire-le-
Grand and Rheims-Chalons Roads, was fortified after 1870, to flank the
position of Berru on the south.
The road from Rheims to Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand (G.C. 7), which used to
start from the " Alger Inn," at the cross-roads mentioned above, no longer
exists. Like the inn, it was obliterated by the shelling. A huge crater now
occupies the site of the Alger Inn (photo below).
CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE " ALGER INN "
170
THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE
" ALCER INN " (1918)
Continue along N. 44. About 1 kilometre from the fort, at a bend in the
road, the shattered remnants of trees of an avenue are visible on the left. Under
the first fir-tree of this avenue, about 20 yards from the national road, is an
armoured machine-gun shelter, almost intact.
Cross the railway (/. c.) near the entirely destroyed station of Petit-Sillery.
After passing a ruined chateau on the left, cross the bridge over the Vesle. At
the fork beyond the bridge, leave N. 44 and take G.C. 8 on the right to Sillery.
This village, renowned for its dry wine, is pleasantly situated on the banks
of the Vesle. Throughout the war, it was quite close to the trenches and was
frequently bombarded. In .May, 1916, only some fifty of its inhabitants
remained in the village, which subsequently suffered very severely, especially
in 1918.
Take a turn in the village, then folloiv N. 44 towards Chalons (see Itinerary,
p. 166).
THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRE " AT SILLERY (1918)
171
The region of Sillery-Pompelle was the scene of much fierce fighting
throughout the war. After the capture of La Pompelle and the " Alger Inn "
by the French 10th Corps on the night of September 17-18, 1914, the Germans
increased the number of their attacks, with a view to regaining these important
positions.
One of these attacks (that of December 30, 1914) was preceded by the
explosion of a mine at the "' Alger Inn," which made a hole 130 feet in diameter
by 55 feet deep (see photo, p. 1691. After a hand-to-hand fight, the French
drove back the enemy and remained masters of the crater.
In 1918. during their offensives against Rheims, the Germans attacked several
times in this region. On June 1, between Pommery Park (in the south-
eastern outskirts of Rheims) and the north-east of Sillery, they attacked with
eight or nine battalions and fifteen tanks. The garrison of Fort Pompelle,
momentarily encircled, held out until a furious counter-attack by the French
Colonial Infantry relieved it and drove back the assailants. The German
tanks were either captured or destroyed. On the 18th, after an hour's intense
bombardment, the Germans made a fresh attack and secured a footing in
the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of Sillery,
but French counter-attacks drove them out almost immediately. From July 15
to 17 their attacks on Sillery were likewise repulsed.
Continue along N. 44 to the destroyed Esperance Farm (about 2 kilometres
distant), then turn to the right. Numerous military' works were made by the
French in the embankments of the Aisne-Marne canal along the left side of
the road.
The road rises toward the " Mountain of Rheims." A white tower, domi-
nating the whole plain, is seen on the left (photo below).
Verzenay is next reached by the Rue de Sillery.
VERZENAY, SEEN IKOM THE VERZENAY — MAILLY — CHAMPAGNE ROAD
172
THE OLD MILL AT VERZENAY
It was at Verzenay that, on the evening of September 3, 1914, the German
aeroplane, which had dropped bombs on Rheims the same morning, was
brought down. It lias suffered relatively little from the bombardments.
To visit the church, which contains the tomb of Saint Basle (chapel on the
right), take the Rue Gambetta, then the Rue Thiers.
After visiting the church, return to the Rue Thiers, at the end of ivhich is
the Rue de Mailly (G.C. 26).
Take the latter, which, on leaving Verzenay, rises fairly stiffly.
At the top of the hill, on the right, begins the road leading to Verzenay
Mill, which crowns Hill 227 (see Itinerary, p. 166, and photo above).
This mill, whence there is a fine panorama of the plain as far as the hills
of Berru and Moronvilliers, was a military observation-post of the first order
during the siege warfare.
It belongs to the champagne-wine firm of Heidsick Monopole, which allows
tourists to visit it, as also their vineyards in the surrounding country.
The road dips down to Mailly-Champagne, at the entrance to which village
turn to the right into the Rue Gambetta, then to the left into the Rue de Ludes
(G.C. 26). The road, cut out of the hillside, is very picturesque as far as Ludes.
In the forest, on the left of the road, are numerous " cendrieres," or quarries,
from which volcanic sulphurous cinders, used for improving the vines, are
extracted. Heaps of these valuable cinders (grey, white and black) are fre-
quently encountered at the side of the road.
Ludes is next reached by the Avenue de la Gare.
The region just passed through, including the villages of Verzenay, Mailly-
Champagne and Ludes, as well as Verzy (to the east) and Rilly-la-Montagne
and Villers-Allerand (to the ivest) , are the wine-growing centres of the "Moun-
tain of Rheims " properly so-called, the black grapes from which produce the
best brands of Champagne. The villages are picturesquely situated at the edge
of the forests which crown the hills, while the vineyards which cover the
slopes of the latter descend to the chalky plain. These vineyards, divided
into tiny plots, the ground of which before the ravages of the phylloxera
cost as much as 93.000 francs per hectare (about 2% acres), constitute the
principal wealth of the country. Here and there they have suffered from the
war, but this has not prevented the vine-dressers from cultivating them (often
with the help of the soldiers) or from gathering the grapes, under the con-
tinual menace of the German guns.
173
PUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERY
At Ludes, in the Avenue de la Gare, turn to the right into the Rue de
Cormontreuil, and again to the right, into the Rue de Puisieulx (G.C. 33).
At the crossing, 1 kilometer beyond Ludes, go straight on. After passing
on the right an avenue bordered with trees leading to the Chateau of Romont,
Puisieulx is reached.
At the first crossing, on entering the village, keep straight on, then turn to
the right as far as the ruined church, with its curious loop-holed chevet. Leave
the church on the right and, at the end of the village, turn to the left. There are
a few graves on the right of the road. After skirting a large estate, the trees
of which were destroyed by shell-fire, the tourist reaches Sillery.
RUINED CHURCH OF TAISSY
171
Turn to the left into G.C. 8, at the entrance to the village. On the right are
vestiges ol a small wood, known as "'Zouaves Wood." which was the scene of
mam sanguinary fights after its capture hy the French in 1911.
The tourist next reaches Taissy, whose ruined church is on the right, by
the side of the I esle {photo, p. 173 1.
This interesting church is largely Romanesque in style (tower, chevet and
nave). The tabernacle, with altar-piece of carved wood, is Louis XIII. A
tine wrought-iron railing encloses the sanctuary [photo below). The small,
sonorous hell of the hell'ry is, strange to say, 13th or 14th century.
Pass straight through Taissy, then follow the tram-lines. Cormontreuil is
entered by the Rue I ii tor-Hugo.
From Cormontreuil. the tourist may return to Rheims either by turning to
the right in the village, beyond the train station {in this case he will enter
Rheims by the Rue de Cormontreuil which leads to the Place Dieu-Lumiere) or
by continuing straight ahead. In the latter case he will cross the Faubourg
Flechambault by the Rue Ledru-Rollin. At the end of the latter, turn to the
right into the Rue Flechambault which, after crossing the Vesle and the canal,
leads to the Church of St. Remi.
m ?
1* i
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1 * A
THE CHOIR OF TAISSV CHURCH
CONTENTS
PACES
Political History of Rheims 3-7
Military History of Rheims 8 and 9
The Battles for Rheims. 1914-1918 ...... 9-15
The Destruction of Rheims by the bombardments . . . 16-21
Life in the bombarded City 21-26
I. — A Visit to the City 27-120
The Cathedral (description of) 28-60
History of the Cathedral 28-30
The Cathedral during the War 31 and 32
Coloured Plan of Rheims between 32 and 33
Plan of the Cathedral and Archi-episcopal Palace ... 33
Exterior of the Cathedral 34-49
Interior of the Cathedral 50-60
First Itinerary — The City 61-94
The Place du Parvis 62
The Archi-episcopal Palace 63-66
The Place Drouet dTrlon and The Promenades ... 70 and 71
The H6tel-de-Ville . 72
The Place des Marches 74
The Place Royale 78
The Musicians' House . 80
The Mars Gate 82
The Rue de Ceres 87
Second Itinerary— The City (continued) 95-120
The Rue Chanzy 95-97
The Lycee 97 and 98
The Abbey of Saint Pierre-les-Dames 98
The Pommery Wine-Cellars . . 101
The Church of St. Remi 103-116
The Hotel-Dieu (Hospital) . . 117
II. — A Visit to the Battlefield.
First Itinerary (Morning) 122-133
Ormes ............ 124
St. Euphraise 127
Coulommes-la-Montagne 128
Gueux 129
Thillois 131
Second Itinerary (Afternoon) 134-159
Tinqueux 135
Merfy 137
St. Thierry 138
Villers-Franqueux .......... 141
Cormicy 144
Le Godat 148
Loivre 150
Brimont 152
The " Cavaliers de Courcy " 156
La Neuvillette 158
176
Thirii Itinerary (Morning) .
Bourgogne — Fresnes
Witry-les-Reims
Nogent 1" \lilicsse — Beine — Berru
Fourth Itinerary (Afternoon)
The Butte-de-Tir .
The Fort de la Pompelle
Alger Inn ....
Verzenay ....
PACES
160-165
161
162
164
166-174
167
168
169
172
PRINTED IN THE
BY ESSEX PRESS- INC..
J. S. A
JEWARK.
BEAUTIFUL FRANCE
NORMANDY
Land of rich pastures and fashionable watering-places,
Normandy may truly be said to have been "favoured by
the gods." Her fertile soil, famous breeds of horses and
cattle, picturesque sites, and renowned sea-bathing coast have
made Normandy one of France's most flourishing provinces.
Numerous splendid monuments evoke in the tourist's mind
reminiscences of a glorious past.
No region has been more lavishly adorned by Nature.
Its mountain landscapes have caused it to be surnamed
"La Petite Suisse." Among the more interesting places
may be mentioned BagnoIes-de-1'Orne, with its famous
mineral-water springs; Rouen, with its celebrated cathedral,
Churches of St. Ouen and St. Maclou, Palais-de-Justice, and
port (which the war has transformed into one of the most
important in Europe); Caen — "Norman Athens" — with
its Romanesque churches, Renaissance mansions, and ancient
houses; the great cathedrals of Sees, Evreux, Bayeux, and
Coutances; the feudal ruins of Arques, Chateau- Gail lard
and Falaise; the Abbeys of Jumieges and St. Wandrille;
the mediaeval narrow winding streets of Lisieux.
Numerous sea-side resorts: Dieppe, St. Valery, Fecamp,
Entretat, Le Havre, and St. Adresse, Honfleur, Trouville,
Deauville, Villers, Houlgate, Cabourg, Cherbourg and Grand-
ville are too widely known to call for special mention.
Lastly St. Michael's Mount (surnamed the "Marvel
of the West"), with its extraordinary pyramid of superim-
posed Gothic monastery and Churches, built on a rock in
the middle of the deep bay.
All enquiries with regard to traveling should be addressed
to the "Touring Club de France," 65, Avenue de la Grande
Armee 65, Paris.
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