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15J5.3  B.  3 


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HARVARD 
COLLEGE 
LIBRARY 


THE  RHINE. 


MONEY  TABLE. 

(Comp.  p.  xiiij 
Approximate  Equivalents. 


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\ 


THE  RHINE 

FROM 

ROTTERDAM  TO  CONSTANCE. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

K  BAEDEKER. 


With  28  Maps  and  21  Plans. 
EIGHTH  REMODELLED  EDITION. 


LEIPSIC :  KARL  BAEDEKER. 

LONDON:  DULAU  AND  CO.,  37  SOHO  SQUARE,   W. 
1882. 

All  rights  reserved. 


(?e<»   192.5  ."55 /i 


^ 


V 


W>.^r*ie*ic  L.T)«.y 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  th<ra  art  wrong,  aftfertireir  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 

Chaucbr. 


.  x  fit 


*      x\ 


PREFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  the  Rhine  is  to 
supply  the  traveller  with  such  information  as  will  render 
him  as  nearly  as  possible  independent  of  hotel-keepers, 
commissionnaires,  and  guides,  and  thus  enable  him  the 
more  thoroughly  to  enjoy  aud  appreciate  the  objects  of 
interest  he  meets  with  on  his  tour. 

The  Handbook  is  based  almost  entirely  upon  the  per- 
sonal observation  of  the  Editor,  and  the  country  de- 
scribed has  been  repeatedly  explored  by  him  with  a 
view  to  procure  the  latest  possible  information  ;  but ,  as 
changes  are  constantly  taking  place,  he  will  highly  appre- 
ciate any  communications  with  which  travellers  may 
kindly  favour  him,  if  the  result  of  their  own  experience. 
Those  already  received  from  numerous  correspondents, 
which  he  gratefully  acknowledges ,  have  in  many  cases 
proved  most  serviceable. 

The  present  edition,  which  corresponds  with  the  21st 
in  German  and  the  1 2th  in  French,  has  been  thoroughly 
revised  and  materially  augmented.  For  the  article  on 
Rhenish  Art  the  Editor  is  indebted  to  Professor  A.  Springer 
of  Leipsic. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  on  which  special  care  has 
been  bestowed ,  will  often  render  material  service  to  the 
traveller,  and  enable  him  at  a  glance  to  ascertain  his 
bearings  and  select  the  best  routes.  Their  number  has 
been  considerably  increased  in  the  present  edition. 

Time  Tables.  Information  regarding  trains,  steam- 
boats, and  diligences  is  most  trustworthy  when  obtained 
from  local  sources.  The  best  German  publications  of  the 
kind  are  'HendscheVs  Telegraph'    (2   marks)  ,    published 


VI  PREFACE. 

at  Frankfort  on  the  Main,  and  issued  monthly  during 
the  summer  season,  and  the  'KursbucK  (2  m.),  published 
at  Berlin,  issued  eight  times  a  year. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet  (1  Engl.  ft.  = 
0,3048  metre  =  0,938  Parisian  ft.  =  0,971  Prussian 
ft.),  Distances  in  English  miles  (except  in  the  case  of 
mountain  excursions,  where  the  time  they  occupy  is  given 
as  more  convenient),  and  the  Populations  in  accor- 
dance with  the  most  recent  census. 

Hotels.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate, 
not  only  the  first-class  hotels ,  but  others  also  of  more 
modest  pretensions,  which  may  be  safely  selected  by  the 
'voyageur  en  garcon' ,  with  little  sacrifice  of  comfort 
and  great  saving  of  expenditure.  Although  changes  fre- 
quently take  place,  and  prices  generally  have  an  upward 
tendency,  the  average  charges  stated  in  the  Handbook 
will  enable  the  traveller  to  form  a  fair  estimate  of  his  pro- 
bable expenditure.  The  value  of  the  asterisks,  which  are 
used  as  marks  of  commendation ,  is  relative  only ;  those 
prefixed  to  town  hotels  and  village  inns  signifying  re- 
spectively that  the  houses  are  good  of  their  kind. 

The  Editor  regrets  that  he  is  unable  to  answer  all 
communications.  To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and 
others  he  begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  deal- 
ing and  courtesy  towards  travellers  forms  the  sole  pass- 
port to  his  commendation ,  and  that  advertisements  of 
every  kind  are  strictly  excluded  from  his  Handbooks. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

I.  Language xiti 

II.  Money.  Travelling  Expenses xiti 

III.  Passports.   Custom  House xiv 

IV.  Railways.    Diligences xiv 

Y.   Steamboats.    Fall,  Breadth,  Length,  and  Depth  of 

the  Rhine xv 

VI.  Walking  Excursions xvii 

VII.  Hotels .  xvii 

VIII.  Geology  of  the  Rhine xviii 

IX.  Climate.    Grape  Cure xx 

X.  Wines  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle xx 

XI.   Rhenish  Art xxiv 

Route. 

1 .  From  Brussels  to  Cologne     .    .    . 1 

1.  Environs  of  Aix-la-Chapelle 10 

2.  From  Stolberg  to  Julich,  Rheydt,  and  Oladbach  ....  11 

3.  From  Stolberg  to  Morsbach 11 

4.  The  Valley  of  the  Roer.    Nideggen.    Helmbach    ....  12 

5.  From  Duren  to  Neusa 12 

6.  From  Diiren  to  Jiilich 12 

2.  From  Rotterdam  to  Cologne 13 

1.  Environs  of  Diisseldorf '21 

2.  From  Miilheim  to  Gladbach  and  Bensberg 21 

3.  Cologne 22 

4.  From  Cologne  to  Neuss  (Dusseldorf),  Crefeld,  and  Cleve  .  44 

1.  From  Neuss  to  Obercassel 46 

2.  From  Goeh  to  Wesel 46 

3.  From  Cleve  to  El  ten  and  Zevenaar 47 

4.  From  Cleve  to  Calcar 47 

5.  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  by  Gladbach  to  Diisseldorf  ....  47 

i.  Schloss  Dyck 48 

2.  From  Gladbach  to  Antwerp 48 

6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Ruhrort,  and  Essen 49 

i.  From  Viersen  to  Venlo 49 

2.  From  Ruhrort  to  Oberhausen  and  Sterkrade 49 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeld  and  Hagen 50 

1.  From  Elberfeld  to  Diisseldorf 51 

2.  From  Hagen  to  Siegen •    .    .     .  51 

3.  From  Letmathe  to  Iserlohn.    Dechenhohle 52 

8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  by  Giessen 52 

9.  The  Rhine  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz 54 

1.  Basalt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg   ...  59 

2.  From  Neuwied  to  Monrepos  and  Altwied 63 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne.    Railway  Journey 66 

11.  From   Deutz  (Cologne)  to  Obercassel  (Bonn)  and  Ehren- 

breitstein  (Coblenz) 68 


viii  CONTENTS. 

Route.  Page. 

1.  Schloss  Sayn.    Friedrichsberg.    Abbey  of  Rommersdorf  .  70 

2.  8chonstatt.    Hohr 71 

12.  Bonn 71 

13.  The  Seven  Mountains 76 

1.  From  Honnef  to  the  Lowenburg 80 

2.  From  Rhondorf  to  the  Lowenburg 80 

14.  Valley  of  the  Ahr 81 

15.  From  Andernach  to  Mayen.    Brohlthal.    Laacher  See  .    .  86 

16.  Goblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein 90 

17-  The  Rhine  from  Coblenz  to  Mayence 97 

1.  The  Dachskopf 101 

2.  From  Braubach  to  Ems 101 

3.  From  Braubach  to  Welmich 101 

4.  Alte  Burg  near  Boppard.    Fleckertshohe 108 

5.  From  Boppard  to  Brodenbach  on  the  Moselle 103 

6.  Excursions  from  St.  Goarshausen.  Schweizerthal.  Reichen- 

berg 106 

7.  The  Steeger-Thal.     From  Bacharach  by  Stromberg  to 

Kreuznach Ill 

8.  The   Wisperthal.     From   Lorch   to    Schlangenbad    and 

8chwalbach.    The  Sauerburg 112 

9.  Walk  in  the  Rheingau 118 

10.  Eberbach  and  the  Steinberg 120 

11.  Kiedrich.    Grafenberg.    Scharfenstein 121 

18.  The  Niederwald   .'....' 122 

19.  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence.   Railway  Journey 124 

The  Elisenhohe.    The  Salzkopf 125 

20.  From  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.    Schlangenbad  and  Schwal- 

bach 126 

1.  From  Eltville  to  Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach     .    -    .  128 

2.  From  Schlangenbad  to  Wiesbaden 129 

8.  From  Schwalbach  to  Wiesbaden 180 

41.  Wiesbaden 130 

22.  Mayence 136 

23.  From  Bingerbriick  to  Kreuznach,  Saarbriicken,  and  Metz  146 

1.  From  Kreuznach  to  the  Gans,  Rheingrafenstein,  and  Miin- 

ster  am  Stein 149 

2.  From  Munster  am  Stein  to  the  AHenbaumburg.    Schloss 

Montfort 149 

3.  From  Munster  am  Stein  to  Kaiserslautern 150 

4.  Sponheim.    Heisenheim.    Offenbach 151 

5.  Dhaun.    Simraern.    Soonwald.  Stein-Kallenfels.  Warten- 

stein,  etc 152 

6.  Idar 153 

7.  Tholey.   The  Schaumberg.  The  Brennende  Berg.    Heights 

of  Spicheren 154 

8.  The  Battle  Fields  near  Metz 157 

9.  From  Metz  to  Nancy 159 

10.  From  Meta  to  Luxembourg  by  Thionville 160 

24.  From  Saarbriicken  to  Treves  and  Luxembourg 160 

1.  The  Clef.    Castell 181 

2.  From  Wasserbillig  to  Diekirch 167 

3.  From  Luxembourg  to  Trois  Vierge* 169 

4.  From  Treves  to  Thionville 169 

25.  The  Moselle  from  Coblenz  to  Treves 170 

1.  Munster -Maifeld 172 

?,  Schloss  Eltz T 172 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Route.  **»•«• 

3.  Kautenbachthal 178 

4.  Tiefenbachthal lTO 

5.  Thron.    Mertersdorf.    Grunhans 180 

26.  From  Cologne  to  Treves.   The  Volcanic  Eifel 181 

1.  From  Diiren  to  Euskirchen 181 

2.  From  Enskirchen  to  Munstereifel 181 

3.  From  Euskirchen  to  Boon 181 

4.  Olefthal.    Schleiden 181 

5.  From  Hillesheim  to  Adenau 1ft) 

6.  From  Hillesheim  to  Daon.    Brensberg 182 

7.  From  Gerolstein  to  Priim 183 

8.  Bitburg 184 

27.  From  Coblenz  toWetzlar.   Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn  191 

1.  Excursions  from  Ems 1M 

2.  Scheid.    Geilnau 196 

3.  From  Diete  to  Zollhaus  (and  SehwaJbacb) 197 

4.  From  Limburg  to  Hadamar 198 

28.  Frankfort 200 

1.  From  Frankfort  to  Mayence 213 

2.  From  Frankfort  to  Mannheim  by  the  Riedbahn      ...  213 

29.  The  Taunus 214 

a.  Taunus  Railway  from  Frankfort  to  Castel  (Mayence) 

and  Wiesbaden 214 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Homburg  and  Cronberg 215 

The  Saalburg 216 

c.  From  Frankfort  to  Soden.    Kdnigstein.    Falkenstein. 
Great  Feldberg 217 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  Eppstein  and  Limburg 219 

The  Bossert.    Fischbachthal 220 

30.  From  Frankfort  to  Heidelberg  and  Mannheim 220 

1.  From  Darmstadt  to  Worms 224 

2.  From  Darmstadt  to  Mayence 224 

3.  The  Melibocus 225 

4.  Environs  of  Auerbach 226 

5.  From  Bensheim  to  Worms.    Lorseb 226 

6.  The  Bergstrasse 227 

31.  TheOdenwald 227 

a.  Western  Portion.    The  Felsberg.  Relchenbach.  Lin- 

denfels 227 

The  Dxomm.    Waldmichelbaeh.    Schonau 229 

b.  Eastern  Portion.   Odenwald  Railway 230 

1.  From  Beinheim  to  Lindenfels 230 

2.  From  Michelstadt  to  Beichelsheim 231 

3.  From  Michelstadt  to  Amorbach  and  Miltenberg ....  231 

4.  From  Miltenberg  to  Aschaffenburg 231 

32.  Heidelberg 232 

1.  From  Heidelberg  to  Neckarelz.    Valley  of  the  Keckar     .  239 

2.  From  Heidelberg  to  Schwetzingen  and  Speyer    ....  240 

33.  Mannheim  and  Ludwigshafen 240 

From  Mannheim  to  Carlsruhe 243 

34.  From  Mayence  to  Ludwigshafen  (Mannheim).  Worms    .  243 

35.  From  Blngen  or  Mayence  to  Alzey  and  Neustadt  ....  247 

1.  From  Alaey  to  Langmeil 248 

2.  From  Kirchheimbolanden  to  the  Donnersberg    ....  248 

3.  From  Monabeim  to  Langmeil 248 


x  CONTENTS. 

Route.  Page. 

4.  From  Griinstadt  to  Eisenberg .    .    - 249 

5.  Abbey  of  Limburg.   The  Hartenburg.   The  Heidenmauer  249, 260 

36.  From  Ludwigshafen  to  Weissenburg  and  Strassburg    .    .  250 

1.  The  Haardt.    From  Neustadt  to  the  Maxburg     ....  251 

2.  Gleisweiler 252 

3.  Geisberg.    Scherhohl.    W8rth 253 

37.  From  Mannheim  (  Ludwigshaf en f  to  Neunkirchen  (Saar- 

brucken) 254 

1.  From  Kaiserslautern  to  Otterberg 255 

2.  From  Landstuhl  to  Eusel 256 

3.  From  Homburg  to  Zweibrucken  and  Saargemund   .    .    .  256 
38.?From  Mannheim  to  Speyer,  and  to  Strassburg,  via  Ger- 

mersheim  and  Lauterburg 257 

From  Germersheim  to  Landau 261 

39.  From  Landau  to  Zweibrucken.  The  Vosges  of  the  Palatinate  261 

40.  Strassburg 264 

41 .  From  Strassburg  to  Saarbriicken 273 

42.  From  Strassburg  to  Saarburg  (Metz  and  Nancy).    The  N. 

Vosges  Mts 274 

1.  From  Steinburg  to  Buchsweiler 274 

2.  Excursions    from  Zabern.     Greiffenstein.     Hoh-Barr. 

Dagsburg,  etc 275 

3.  From  Zabern  to  Pfalzburg.    St.  Johann 276 

4.  From  Saarburg  to  Saargemund 277 

5.  From  Saarburg  to  Metz 277 

6.  From  Saarburg  to  Nancy 277 

43.  From  Strassburg  to  Bale 277 

1.  From  Bollweiler  to  Ensisheim •  281 

2.  From  Miilhausen  to  Miillheim 282 

3.  From  Miilhausen  to  Belfort 282 

4.  From  St.  Ludwig  to  Leopoldshohe.    Huningen    ....  282 

44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts 283 

I.  The  Central  Vosges  Mts 283 

a.  Railway  from   Strassburg  to  Rothau  by  Molsheim. 

Nideck 284 

1.  From  Schirmeck  to  the  Donon 285 

2.  From  Rothau  to  Urbach 285 

b.  From  Zabern  to  Schlettstadt  by  Molsheim.  Wangen- 

burg.  Girbaden.  Odilienberg.   Hohwald   ....  286 

1.  Grendelbruch 289 

2.  Environs  of  Hohwald.    The  Hochfeld 291,  292 

II.  The  Upper,  or  High  Vosges  Mts 292 

a.  From  Schlettstadt  to   Markirch.     Hohenkonigsburg. 

Rappoltsweiler 292 

1.  From  Markirch  to  Rappoltsweiler 293 

2.  Ascent  of  the  Bressoir  from  Markirch 293 

3.  From  Rappoltsweiler  to  Reichenweier  and  Kaysersberg    295,  296 

b.  The  Weissthal.    The  Weisse  See  and  Schwarze  See. 

Reisberg 296 

c.  From  Colmar  to  Miinster.    The  Schlucht.    Metzeral  299 

1.  From  Tiirkheim  to  the  Drei  JEhren.  Gala.  Hohenlandsberg  299 

2.  From  the  Schlucht  to  the  Hoheneck  and  G&ardmer  .    .  301 

3.  From  Luttenbach  to  the  Eahle  Wasen 302 

4.  From  Metzeral  to  Wildenstein.    The  Rheinkopf     ...  302 


CONTENTS.  xl 

Route.  P»fe. 

d.  From  Bollweiler  to  Gebweiler 302 

Murbach  Abbey 303 

e.  From  Mulhausen  to  Wesserling 903 

1.  The  Gebweiler  Belchen 304 

2.  From  Sennheim  to  Sentheixn.    WSlsche  Belcben     .    .    .  306 

45.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden 306 

1.  From  Bruchsal  to  Germersheim 306 

2.  From  Durlach  to  Pforsheim  and  Wildbad 306 

3.  From  Carlsruhe  to  Landau 313 

4.  From  Raatatt  to  Gernsbach 314 

46.  Baden  and  Environs 314 

47.  From  Baden  to  Wildbad 323 

Excursions  from  Wildbad 326 

48.  From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  Bale 325 

1.  8asbach.    Brigittenschloss 326 

2.  From  Appenweier  to  Kehl  and  Strassburg 326 

3.  Excursions  from  Freiburg.  Schau-ins-Land.Kaiserstuhl,  etc.  333 

4.  From  Freiburg  to  Golmar 383 

49.  The  Black  Forest  (Duchy  of  Baden) 336 

a.  From  Baden  to  Gernsbacb  and  Allerheiligen.  Murg- 

tbal.   Hornisgrinde.   Mummelsee .  337 

1.  From  Baden  to  Forbach  direct.   Herrenwies 338 

2.  Freudenstadt 336 

b.  Allerheiligen  and  Buttenstein  Waterfalls 341 

3.  From  Ottenh&fen  to  Allerheiligen  by  the  Edelfrauengrab 

and  the  Blochereck 341 

4.  From  Allerheiligen  to  Bippoldsau  direct 342 

6.  From  Allerheiligen  to  Oppenau  and  to  Sulzbach     .    .    .  342 

e.  Rencbthal  Railway.   Kniebis  Baths 342 

6.  The  Schapbachthal.    Antogast 344 

7.  From  Griesbach  to  Rippoldsau 344 

d.  From  Offenburg  to  Constance.  Kinzigthal.  Rippoldsau  344 

8.  From  Biberach  to  Lahr.    Hohengeroldsecfc 346 

9.  From  Wolfach  to  Schiltach  and  Alpirsbach 346 

10.  From  Hornberg  to  Elzach  and  Schramberg 347 

11.  From  Triberg  to  Elzach  by  Schonach 348 

e.  From  Triberg  to  Waldkirch  via  Furtwangen.    Valleys 

of  Simonswald  and  Elz 350 

12.  From  Schonwald  to  Simonswald 361 

f.  From  Freiburg  to  St.  Blasien.  Hollenthal.  Feldberg  .  352 

13.  From  Zarten  to  Todtnau 362 

14.  St.  Margen.    Waldau 863 

g.  Wiesentbal,  Wehratbal,  Albtbal 357 

15.  From  Todtmoos  to  St.  Blasien 368 

16.  From  Gschwand  in  the  Wiesenthal  to  St.  Blasien  ...  360 

17.  From  Schluchsee  to  Thiengen.    Schluchtthal 361 

h.  Badenweiler  and  Environs.    Burgeln ,    Blauen ,  Bel- 
cben, Munstertbal 362 

50.  From  Bale  by  Scbaffhausen  to  Constance 366 

1.  Rheinfelden 366 

2.  From  Oberlauchringen  to  Weizen 367 

3.  The  Falls  of  the  Rhine 367 

4.  Hohentwiel 368 

5.  The  Island  of  Reichenau 368 

Index 369 


xii  ABBREVIATIONS. 

Maps. 

1.  The  Lower  Rhine:  RR.  1,  2,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  9;  between  pp.  44,  45. 

2.  The  Rhine  fbom  Bonn  to  Coblenz:  RR.  9,  10,  11,  14,  15;  between 

pp.  56,  57. 

3.  The  Seven  Mountains:  R.  13;  between  pp.  76,  77. 

4.  The  Environs  op  Bopfard:  R.  17;  p.  102. 

5.  The  Rhine  from    Coblenz    to   Bingen  :  RR.  16,  17,  19,  20,  23,  27  * 

between  pp.  102,  103. 

6.  The  Environs  of  St.  Goar:  R.  17;  p.  103. 

7.  The  Niederwald:  R.  18;  p.  124. 

8.  The  W.  Taunds  and  Rheingau:  RR.  17, 19,  20;  between  pp.  124,  125. 

9.  The  Environs  of  Kredznach:  R.  23;  p.  148. 

10.  The  Nahethal:  R.  23;  p.  149. 

11.  The  Environs  of  Metz:  R.  23;  p.  157. 

12.  The  Moselle:  RR.  24,  25;  between  pp.  170,  171. 

13.  The  Volcanic  Eifel:  R.  26;  between  pp.  184,  185. 

14.  The  Environs  of  Ems:  R.  27;  p.  193. 

15.  The  E.  Tadnus  :  R.  29 ;  between  pp.  214,  215. 

16.  The  Bergstrasse  and  Odenwald:  R.  31;  between  pp.  226,  227. 

17.  The  E.  Odenwald  :  R.  31b  •,  p.  227. 

18.  Map  of  Rhenish  Hessen  :  RR.  34,  35;  p.  244. 

19.  The  Rhenish  Palatinate  :  RR.  36,  36,  37,  39,  41 ;  between  pp.  256.  257. 

20.  The  Northern  Vosges  Mts.  :  RR.  42,  44 1. ;  between  pp.  276,  277. 

21.  The  Central  Vosges  Mts.:  RR.  441.,  44 II.;  between  pp.  284,  285. 

22.  The  Southern  Vosges  Mts.  :  R.  44  II. ;  between  pp.  292,  293. 

23.  The  Environs  of  Baden  :  R.  46 ;  p.  315. 

24.  The  Black  Forest.  Sheet  I.  (Murgthal):  RR.  46,  47,  48,  49  a,  49  b;  be- 

tween pp.  314,  815. 

25.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  II.  (Kinzigthal):  RR.  48, 49  c,  49  d;  between 

pp.  344,  345. 

26.  The  Black  Forest  ,  Sheet  III.  (Freiburg,  Triberg,  Donaneschingen) : 

RR.  48,  49d,  49e,  49f ;  between  pp.  352,  363. 

27.  The  Black  Forest,  Sheet  IV.  (Southern  Valleys) :  RR.  49f,  49g,  49h  * 

between  pp.  366,  367. 

28.  Railway  Map  of  the  Rhine,  after  the  Index. 

Plans  of  Towns. 

Aix-la-Chapelle,  p.  4;  Baden,  p.  314;  Bonn,  p.  76;  Carlsruhe,  p.  307  5 
Coblenz,  with  Environs,  p.  90;  Colmar,  p.  277;  Cologne,  p.  22;  Darm- 
stadt, p.  2%;  Dusseldorf,  with  Environs,  p.  16;  Frankfort,  with  En- 
virons, p.  200;  Freiburg,  p.  328;  Heidelberg,  with  Environs,  p.  232; 
Luxembourg,  p.  167;  Mannheim,  p.  240;  Matence,  p.  136;  Metz,  p.  156  ; 
SpeteR,  p.  257  \  Strassburg,  With  Environs,  p.  264;  Treves,  p.  166;  Wies- 
baden, p.  132;  Worms,  p.  245. 


Abbreviation*. 

R.  =  room;  L.  =  light;  B.  =  breakfast;  D.  =  dinner;  S.  =  supper; 
A.  =  attendance.  —  N.  =  north,  northern,  etc. ;  S.  =  south,  etc. ;  E.  = 
east,  etc.;  W.  =  west,  etc.  —  r.  =  right;  1.  =  left.  —  M.  =  English 
mile;  ft.  =  Engl.  foot.  —  Jf,  m.  as  mark;  pf.  =  pfennig. 

The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place  indicates  its  height 
above  the  sea-level.  The  pumber  of  miles  placed  before  the  principal 
places  on  railway-routes  and  high-roads  generally  indicates  their  distance 
from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


INTRODUCTION. 


1.  Lftngaogti 

A  slight  acquaintance  with  German  is  indispensable"  for  those 
who  desire  to  explore  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  Rhenish 
Provinces.  Tourists  who  do  not  deviate  from  the  beaten  track  will 
generally  find  English  or  French  spoken  at  the  principal  hotels  and 
the  usual  resorts  of  strangers;  hut  if  they  are  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  language  they  must  be  prepared  occasionally  to  submit  to  the 
extortions  practised  by  porters,  cab-drivers,  and  others  of  a  like 
class,  whioh  even  the  data  furnished  by  the  Handbook  will  not 
always  enable  them  to  avoid. 

II.  Money.   Travelling  Expenaea. 

Money.  The  German  mark  (.4?,  m.), which  is  nearly  equivalent 
to  the  English  shilling,  is  divided  into  100  pfennigs.  Banknotes 
of  5,  20 ,  and  50  m.  are-  issued  "by  the  German  Imperial  Bank 
('Deutsche  Reichsbank?),  and  others  of  100,  560,  and  1000  m.  by  the 
Imperial  Bank  and  by  twelve  other  banks  which  possess  the  pri- 
vilege. The  current  gold  coins  are  pieces  of  10  (l  Krone*)  and  of 
20  marks  ('Doppelhrone'),  the  intrinsic  value  of  which  is  somewhat 
lower  than  that  of  the  English  half-sovereign  and  sovereign  (It. 
being  Worth  about  20m.  43  pf.  J.  The  paper  currency  is  of  the  same 
vahie  as  the  precious  metals.  The  silver  coins  are  pieces  of  5,  3 
(the  old  dollar),  2,  1,  %  (50  pf.),  and  V5  mark  (20nf.).  In  nickel 
there  ate  coins  of  10  and  &  pfennigs  (formerly  grosehen  and  half- 
groscfcen),  and  in  copper  there  are  pieces  of  2  and  1  pfennig. 

English  sovereigns  and  banknotes  may  be  exchanged  at  all  the 
principal  towns  in  Germany,  and  Napoleons  are  also  favourably 
received  (20  ft.  *=  16«.  s^  16m.,  and  often  a  few  pfennigs  more). 
Those  who  travel  with  large  sums  shotrld  carry  them  in  the  form  of 
circular  notes  of  61.  of  10?.,  rather  than  irr  banknotes  or  gold,  as 
the  value  of  circular  notes,  if  lost  or  stolen,  i&  recoverable. 

Tbavblmno  Expenses.  The  expense  of  a  tont  in  the  Rhenish 
Provinces  depends  of  course  on  a  great  variety  of  circumstances.  Of 
late  years  many  complaints  have  justly  been  made  of  the  exorbitant 
charges  at  gome  of  the  Rhenish  hotels ;  but  it  may  be  stated  generally 
that  travelling  fit  Germany,  and  even  on  the  Rhine,  is  less  ex- 
pensive ,  and  irr  some  respects  mow  cdmrertfaWfe,  than  in  moBt 
other  countries  in  Europe.    The  pedestrian  of  moderate  require- 


xiv  PASSPORTS. 

ments,  who  has  attained  tolerable  proficiency  in  the  language  and 
avoids  the  beaten  track  as  much  as  possible,  will  have  no  difficulty 
in  limiting  his  expenditure  to  8-10  m.  per  day ;  but  those  who  prefer 
driving  to  walking,  frequent  the  most  expensive  hotels,  and  require 
the  services  of  guides  and  commissionnaires,  must  be  prepared  to 
expend  at  least  25-30 m.  daily. 

HI.  Paaaporta.    Custom  House. 

Passports  are  now  unnecessary  in  Germany,  as  well  as  in 
Austria,  France,  Switzerland,  Belgium,  and  Holland;  but  as  they 
are  occasionally  required  to  prove  the  identity  of  the  traveller, 
to  procure  admission  to  collections,  and  to  obtain  delivery  of 
registered  letters,  persons  who  contemplate  a  prolonged  tour  had 
better  provide  themselves  with  these  easily-obtained  credentials. 
The  following  are  the  principal  passport-agents  in  London :  Lee  and 
Carter,  440  West  Strand;  DorreU  and  Son,  15  Charing  Cross;  E. 
Stanford,  55  Charing  Cross;  W.  J.  Adams,  59  Fleet  Street. 

Custom-Housb  formalities  are  now  almost  everywhere  lenient* 
As  a  rule,  however,  articles  purchased  during  the  journey,  which 
are  not  destined  for  personal  use,  should  be  declared  at  the  frontier. 

IV.  Railways.  Diligences. 

Railways.  Railway-travelling  is  cheaper  in  Germany  than  in 
other  parts  of  Europe,  Belgium  excepted,  and  the  carriages  are 
generally  olean  and  comfortable.  Those  of  the  second  class,  with 
spring-seats,  are  often  better  than  the  first  in  England.  The  first-class 
carriages,  lined  with  velvet,  and  comparatively  little  used,  are  recom- 
mended to  the  lover  of  fresh  air,  as  he  will  be  more  likely  to  secure  a 
seat  next  the  window.  The  third-class  travelling  community  are 
generally  quiet  and  respectable,  and  the  carriages  tolerably  clean.  On 
a  few  railways  there  is  even  a  fourth  class ,  without  seats.  Smoking 
is  permitted  in  all  the  carriages,  except  those  'Fur  Nicht-Raucher' 
and  the  coupe's  for  ladies.  The  average  fares  for  the  different  classes 
are  about  l3/^.,  il/td.  aad  *kd-  Per  Engl.  M.  respectively.  The 
speed  seldom  exceeds  25  M.  per  hour,  and  the  enormous  traffic 
carried  on  in  some  parts  of  England,  where  hundreds  of  trains  tra- 
verse the  same  line  daily,  is  entirely  unknown.  These  circumstances, 
coupled  with  the  fact  that  the  German  railways  are  generally  well 
organised  and  under  the  immediate  supervision  of  government, 
render  accidents  of  very  rare  occurrence.  On  some  of  the  lines 
20-50  lbs.  of  luggage  are  free,  in  addition  to  smaller  articles 
carried  in  the  hand,  over- weight  being  charged  for  at  moderate 
rates ;  but  on  many  of  the  lines  all  luggage  in  the  van  must  be  paid 
for.  In  aU  cases  the  heavier  luggage  must  be  booked,  and  a  ticket 
procured  for  it  j  this  being  done,  the  traveller  need  not  enquire  after 


STEAMBOATS.  xv 

his  'impedimenta'  until  he  arrives  and  presents  his  ticket  at  his  final 
destination  (where  they  will  be  kept  in  safe  custody,  several  days 
usually  gratis).  Where,  however,  a  frontier  has  to  be  crossed,  the  tra- 
veller should  see  his  luggage  cleared  at  the  custom-house  in  person. 
—  Circular  Tickets  for  prolonged  tours  are  issued  at  considerably 
reduced  rates  (see  the  time-tables),  but  are  unfortunately  not  avail- 
able fox  the  Rhine  steamers.  Ordinary  return-tickets  axe  available 
for  one  to  three  days. 

Diligences.  The  diligence-communication  in  most  parts  of 
Germany  is  well  organised.  The  average  speed  is  5  Engl.  M.  per 
hour,  the  fare  l1/^-  P^r  M.  'Extra- post'  generally  obtainable  on 
application  at  the  post-ofnces :  6d.  per  M.  for  1-2,  is.  per  M.  for 
3-4  persons.  Carriages  to  be  had  almost  everywhere,  at  the  rate  of 
10-15  m.  with  one  horse,  and  12-25  m.  with  a  pair  of  horses,  per  day. 

T.  Steamboats  on  the  Shine. 

The  [Rhine  is  navigated  by  upwards  of  100  steamboats,  from 
the  local  vessels  of  fifteen  or  twenty  horse  power  to  the  powerful 
tug-steamers  of  upwards  of  four  hundred.  During  the  last  few 
years  the  average  number  of  steamboat-passengers  has  exceeded 
one  million  annually.  The  following  four  vessels  of  the  united  Co- 
logne and  Dusseldorf  Companies  are  the  best :  'Deutscher  Kaiser', 
'Wilhelm  Kaiser  und  Konig',  'Humboldt',  and  'Friede',  all  saloon- 
steamers.  The  first  two  of  these  accomplish  the  journey  from 
Mayence  to  Cologne  in  7^2  brs.,  and  that  from  Cologne  to  Mayence 
in  12hrs.,  touching,  in  descending,  at  Biebrich,  Coblenz,  and  Bonn 
only;  in  ascending,  at  Bingen  also.  On  Sundays  and  holidays 
Konigswinter  and  Eltville  are  also  called  at.  The  'Humboldt1  and 
the  'Friede'  make  the  journey  down  stream  in  8J/2,  up  stream  in 
14  hrs.,  calling,  in  addition  to  the  above-named  stations,  at  Ru- 
desheim,  Oberwesel,  St.  Goar,  Boppard,  Lahnstein,  Neuwied,  An- 
dernach,  Linz,  Remagen,  and  Rolandseck.  The  ordinary  steamers 
take  9y4  and  15  hrs.,  stopping  at  numerous  small  places  where 
passengers  are  landed  in  boats.  The  vessels  of  the  Netherlands  Co. 
are  too  uncertain  to  be  depended  upon  for  short  distances,  but  are 
sometimes  preferred  by  travellers  to  or  from  Rotterdam,  no  change 
of  boat  being  necessary.  Some  of  them  are  fitted  up  with  sleeping 
cabins. 

The  fares  are  very  moderate,  those  for  voyages  up  stream  being 
one-sixth  less  than  for  those  in  the  reverse  direction.  The  express 
fares  are  somewhat  higher  than  the  ordinary.  The  express  steamers 
carry  saloon-passengers  only.  Each  passenger  is  allowed  lOOlbs.  of 
luggage  free.  Additional  advantages  are  offered  by  the  issue  of  re- 
turn-tickets, one  class  of  which  is  valid  for  a  week,  another  within 
the  current  year.  These  tickets  must  be  stamped  at  the  office  or  by 
the  conductor  at  the  beginning  of  the  return-journey. 


xvi 


STEAMBOATS. 


Passengers  failing  to  take  tickets  before  embarking  should  obtain  them 
from  the  conductor  immediately  on  going  on  board,  as  otherwise  they  may 
be  compelled  to'  pay  the  fare  from  the  steamer's  first  point  of  departure. 

The  charge  for  landing  or  embarking  by  small  boat  is  10  pf.  each  per- 
son.   Extortion  is  very  frequently  practised  by  the  steamborft-pOrters. 

The  holder  of  a  ticket  worth  2  m.  and  upwards  m  at  liberty  to  break 
his  journey,  provided  he  signify  his  intention  to  the  conductor  before  the 
tickets  are  collected.  IF  the  journey  be  resumed  at  a  station  nearer  the 
passenger's  destination  than  that  at  which  he  disembarked,  the  ticket 
ceases  to  be  valid  for  the  intervening  stations. 

In  autumn  the  steamers  are  often  unpunctual  in  consequence  of  the 
fogs  which  then  prevail.  Should  the  steamer  be  more  than  two  hours 
behind  time,  the  traveller  is  entitled  to  quit  the  vessel  and  demand  re- 
payment of  the  fare  for  the  portion  of  the  voyage  still  untra versed. 

Refreshments  are  provided  on  board  the  steamers.  As  the  tariff  of 
charges  is  not  always  exhibited,  the  following  items  are  given:  coffee 
with  bread  and  butter  1  m.,  table  d'hote  at  1  o'clock  3  m.,  !/«  bottle1  of 
table- wine  60  pf.,  cup  of  coffee  45  pf.,  ices  50  pf.  Dinners  la  la  carte'  are 
not  recommended. 

Travellers  starting  at  an  early  hour  will  find  breakfast  on  board 
pleasanter  than  a  hurried  meal  before  leaving  their  hotel.  The  waiters 
occasionally  offer  worthless  books*,  mttjft,  and  ptttiOralrfas  for  sale  at  ex- 
orbitant prices. 


Fall  of  the  Rhine. 
Height  above  the  level  of  the  sea  of  - 
Feet. 


The  Toma-See,  source  of  the 

Vorder-Khein 7689 

The  Rheinwald  Glacier,  era- 
die  of  the  Hanter-Rhein     .  7268 

The  Lake  of  Constance     .    .  1305 

The  Rhine  at  Bale  ....  803 


The  Rhine  at  Mannheim 

»         »       »  Mayence  . 

„       „  Coblent    . 

„         „       „  Cologne   . 

„         „        „  Dusseldorf 

'  „        _  Emmerich 


Feet. 
302 
272 
190 
122 
87 
33 


At  Bale 189 

„  Mannheim £29 

„  Mayence 492 

-  Goblen* 399 


Breadth  of  the  Rhine, 
Yards. 


Yards. 

At  Bonn 532 

„  Cologne 433 

„  Dusseldorf 409 

„  Schenkenschans  (Dutch  front.)  908 


Length  of  the  Rhine.  Eng).  Miles. 

Frota  Bale  to  StraSsbUrg 85»/2 

„     8trassbnrg  to  Mannheim Sfi1/* 

„     Mannheim  to  Mayence 45»/* 

„     Mayence  to  Bingen 18 

„     Bingen  to  Coblenz 39*/* 

„     Coblenz  to  Cologne 89y* 

„     Cologne  to  Dusseldorf 34*/t 

Dusseldorf  to  Emmerich    . 671/* 


Emmerich  to  Brief  (German  Ocean) . 
Bftle  to  the  German  Oeean    .    .    .    . 


837V, 


Average  Depth  of  the  Rhine.  peet. 

Between  Bale  and  Strassburg 3-12 

„        Strassburg  and  Mayence IWd 

„        Mayence  and  Bonn *76 

At  the  Lurlei 76 

Between  Bonn  and  Cologne ^    .    .    .  10-30 

„       Cologne  afld  Dusseldorf 12-66 


VI.  Walking  Excursions. 

The  pedestrian  is  unquestionably  the  most  independent  of 
travellers,  and  to  him  alone  the  beautiful  scenery  of  some  of  the 
more  remote  districts  is  accessible.  For  a  short  tour  a  couple  of 
flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers,  the  articles 
of  the  toilet,  a  light  waterproof,  and  a  stout  umbrella  will  generally 
be  found  a  sufficient  equipment.  Strong  and  well-tried  boots  are 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be 
avoided;  a  light  pouch  or  game-bag  is  far  less  irksome,  and  its 
position  may  be  shifted  at  pleasure.  A  more  extensive  reserve  of 
clothing  should  not  exceed  the  limits  of  a  small  portmanteau,  which 
can  be  easily  wielded,  and  may  be  forwarded  from  town  to  town 
by  post. 

The  banks  of  the  Rhine  abound  in  charming  scenery,  which  it 
will  amply  reward  the  pedestrian  to  explore ;  many  districts  replete 
with  both  historical  and  natural  interest  are  described  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages.  The  following  are  especially  recommended  to  the 
notice  of  travellers :  The  Seven  Mts.  (R.  13),  the  Eifel  fR.  26), 
the  banks  of  the  Moselle  (R.  25),  the  Black  Forest  (R.  49) ,  the 
Vosges  (RR.  42,  44),  the  environs  of  Schaffhausen  and  Falls  of  the 
Rhine ,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Constance.  By  consulting  the 
Handbook  the  traveller  will  discover  many  attractive  spots,  both  in 
these  and  other  districts. 

VII.  Hotels. 

The  first-class  hotels  in  the  principal  towns  and  watering-places 
throughout  Germany  are  generally  good  and  somewhat  expensive; 
but  it  frequently  happens  that  in  old-fashioned  hotels  of  unassum- 
ing exterior,  particularly  in  places  off  the  beaten  track ,  the  travel- 
ler finds  more  real  comfort  and  much  lower  charges. 

The  average  charges  in  the  first-class  hotels  are  as  follows : 
bed  from  2^2  m.,  plain  breakfast  1  m. ,  dinner  3  m.,  table  wine  1  m. , 
tea  with  meat  2m.,  attendance  lm.,  light  lm.,  boots  extra. 

When  the  traveller  remains  for  a  week  or  more  at  a  hotel,  it  is 
advisable  to  pay ,  or  at  least  call  for  his  account  every  two  or  three 
days,  in  order  that  erroneous  insertions  may  be  detected.  Verbal 
reckonings  are  objectionable ,  except  in  some  of  the  more  remote 
and  primitive  districts  where  bills  are  never  written.  A  waiter's 
mental  arithmetic  is  faulty ,  and  the  faults  are  seldom  in  favour 
of  the  traveller.  A  favourite  practice  is  to  present  the  bill  at  the 
last  moment,  when  mistakes  or  wilful  imposition  cannot  easily 
be  detected  or  rectified.  Those  who  purpose  starting  early  in  the 
morning  will  do  well  to  ask  for  their  bills  on  the  previous  evening. 

English  travellers  often  impose  considerable  trouble  by  ordering 
things  almost  unknown  in  German  usage;  and  if  ignorance  of  the 
language  be  added  to  want  of  conformity  to  the  customs ,   mis- 

Bakdkker1s  Rhine.    9th  Edit.  b 


xviil  GEOLOGY. 

understandings  and  disputes  are  apt  to  ensue.  The  reader  is  there- 
fore recommended  to  acquire  if  possible  suoh  a  moderate  proficiency 
in  the  language  as  to  render  him  intelligible  to  the  servants,  and  to 
endeavour  to  adapt  his  requirements  to  the  habits  of  the  country. 
For  this  purpose  Baedeker's  Manual  of  Conversation  will  be  found 
useful. 

Valets-de-place  generally  charge  2-3  m.  for  half-a-dayr  and 
34/2-5  m«  f°r  a  whole  day. 

Vm.  Geology  of  the  Ehine. 

For  geologists  Von  Dechen**  map  of  the  Rhenish  Province  and  West- 
phalia (Berlin ,  pub.  by  Schropp)  is  of  great  value.  Scale  1 :  80,000.  The 
map  is  divided  into  84  sections,  price  3  m.  each. 

From  Bale  to  Bingen  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is  lake-like  and 
filled  with  comparatively  recent  deposits,  but  at  the  latter  place  it 
suddenly  changes  its  character,  and  becomes  so  narrow  that  room  is 
barely  left  for  the  high-roads  and  railways  which  traverse  it.  The 
river  flows  swiftly  between  almost  perpendicular  rooks  of  consider- 
able height,  intersected  here  and  there  by  ravines.  Towards  Coblenz 
the  valley  gradually  expands,  the  hills  become  less  abrupt,  and  the 
rocks  disappear.  From  Coblenz  to  Andernach  a  broad  basin  extends 
on  both  sides  of  the  stream,  which  at  the  latter  again  enters  a  rocky 
defile.  Near  Bonn  the  river  gradually  widens,  and  the  'Seven 
Mountains'  appear,  forming  the  grand  closing  scene  of  the  picturesque 
portion  of  the  Rhine.  This  chain  of  mountains,  in  diminished  pro- 
portions, accompanies  the  Rhine  on  its  right  bank  as  far  as  Cologne, 
Dusseldorf ,  and  nearly  to  Duisburg.  Below  the  mouth  of  the  Ruhr 
the  country  is  uniformly  flat. 

Between  Bingen  and  Bonn  the  Rhine  Valley  thus  intersects 
an  extensive  range  of  high  land,  consisting  of  upheaved  and 
contorted  strata  of  slatey-grauwacke  and  quartzose-rock,  one  of  the 
oldest  formations  in  which  fossils  are  found.  Since  the  fossili- 
ferous  strata  have  been  more  accurately  classified,  the  Rhenish 
slate  mountains  are  believed  to  hold  the  second  place  according 
to  age  among  these  formations,  belonging  to  what  is  termed  by 
Sir  Roderick  Murchison  the  Devonian  System,  while  the  oldest  for- 
mation of  this  class  is  known  as  the  Silurian* 

From  Bingen  to  the  confluence  of  the  Sieg  below  Bonn,  all  the 
strata  intersected  by  the  Rhine  belong  to  the  same  epoch,  as  they 
contain  the  same  organic  remains.  These  strata  consist  of  many 
different  kinds  of  clay-slate,  the  purest  of  which  is  the  roofing-slate. 
The  latter  is  yielded  in  great  abundance  by  various  quarries  on  the 
banks  of  the  Rhine,  e.g.  those  of  Caub  (p.  109),  whence  it  is  sent 
in  all  directions,  even  as  far  as  Switzerland.  The  clay-slate  forms 
transitions  to  the  species  of  sandstone  termed  grauwacke.  It  is 
generally  fine-grained,  and  in  combination  with  a  quartzose  ce- 
menting matter  passes  into  puartsose-rock,  which  owing  to  its  inde- 


GEOLOGY.  xix 

struotibility  often  assumes  grotesque  shapes,  and  between  Bingen 
and  St.  Goar  greatly  enhances  the  beauty  of  the  valley. 

Between  the  period  when  the  Rhine  first  began  to  force 
its  passage  through  the  above-mentioned  mountainous  district, 
and  that  during  which  the  strata  forming  these  highlands  were 
deposited  at  the  bottom  of  what  was  then  an  ocean,  a  vast  in- 
terval must  have  elapsed.  The  formation  of  the  valley  from  Bingen 
to  the  sea  is  more  recent  than  the  deposits  of  the  middle  section 
of  the  Tertiary  system,  the  Meioeene  of  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  in 
which  the  clays  of  Vallendar  and  the  brown  coals  of  the  Wester- 
wald,  the  Seven  Mountains,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  Bruhl  are 
found.  Of  equal  age  with  these  tertiary  formations  are  the  basalts 
of  'the  Rhine  (p.  59),  which  occur  in  the  most  fantastic  shapes 
near  Linz,  Kaisersberg,  and  Ockenfels,  on  the  Erpeler  Lei,  on  the 
Biigeler  Kopf  (p.  57),  at  Rolandseok  (where  the  railway  has  laid 
bare  some  curiously  situated  columns),  on  the  Oelberg,  Petersberg, 
Nonnenstromberg,  and  other  peaks  of  the  Seven  Mts. 

The  Rhine  Valley  is  then,  geologically  considered,  of  very 
recent  formation;  and  the  extinct  volcanoes,  of  which  numerous 
cones  may  be  seen  from  Neuwied,  such  as  the  Gamillenberg  and 
the  peaks  of  the  Hummerich  at  Plaidt  and  Kruft,  are  still  more 
recent.  From  the  peak  at  Fornioh  a  stream  of  lava ,  whose  large 
perpendicular  columns  may  be  seen  from  the  river  (p.  61),  descends 
into  the  valley.  The  latter  had  nearly  attained  its  present 
depth  when  the  eruption  which  produced  this  stream  of  lava 
took  place.  This  is  proved  by  the  fact,  that  all  the  other  lava- 
streams  near  the  Laacher  See  and  in  the  Eifel  have  been  poured 
into  valleys  already  formed.  The  pumice-stone,  which  extends 
over  the  whole  basin  of  Neuwied  (comp.  pp.  64,  89),  the  only 
place  in  Germany  where  this  volcanic  product  is  found,  must  have 
been  discharged  at  a  still  more  recent  date  than  most  of  the  lava- 
streams. 

In  the  flat  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  are  found  beds 
of  loam  and  rubble,  at  first  narrow,  and  then  gradually  widen- 
ing, which  have  been  deposited  by  the  stream.  Similar  masses  are 
also  met  with  on  the  terraces  parallel  with  the  river,  at  a  height 
of  400-800  ft.  above  the  water.  The  strata  could  only  have  been 
deposited  by  the  agency  of  flowing  water,  and  must  have  been 
deposited  long  before  the  valley  attained  its  present  depth.  These 
terraces  are  distinguishable  by  their  long  horizontal  ridges  from 
the  peaks  formed  by  the  uncovered  slate;  they  prove  that,  the 
Rhine  Valley  has  been  gradually  hollowed  out  by  the  action  of 
water,  though  its  rugged  aspect  might  give  rise  to  the  conjecture 
that  it  had  been  the  result  of  some  mighty  convulsion  of  nature. 


IX.  Climate.    Grape  Cure. 

The  climate  of  the  valley  of  the  Lower  Rhine  is  influenced  by 
the  proximity  of  the  North  Sea,  which  renders  the  temperature 
remarkably  equable.  To  the  same  influence  are  due  the  mild 
autumns  enjoyed  by  the  districts  on  the  central  Rhine,  where  the 
mean  temperature  is  3-6°  Fahr.  higher  than  that  of  the  correspond- 
ing portions  of  E.  Germany.  A  tour  in  the  Rhenish  provinces  is 
therefore  still  enjoyable  at  a  season  when  the  Alps  and  the  moun- 
tainous districts  of  Central  Germany  are  beginning  to  feel  the 
frosts  of  the  coming  winter.  This  geniality  of  climate  is  also  very 
favourable  to  the  ripening  of  the  grapes;  and  hence  it  is  that 
the  l6rape  Cure\  a  very  popular  continental  institution,  long 
established  in  the  Southern  Tyrol  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Lake 
of  Geneva,  has  been  introduced  into  the  Rhenish  Provinces  also. 

Grapes  when  eaten  in  moderate  quantity  (1-2  lbs.  daily)  have 
a  soothing  effect  on  the  mucous  membrane,  and  in  conjunction 
with  a  generous  diet  contribute  materially  to  restore  the  strength 
of  convalescents.  When  eaten  in  greater  quantities  (3-8  lbs.  daily), 
the  vegetable  acid  and  salts  produce  an  effect  similar  to  that  of 
mineral  waters  containing  Glauber's  or  common  salt.  The  grapes 
of  the  Rhenish  Palatinate  ('Gutedel'  or  'Junker',  and  'Oester- 
reicher'  or  'Sylvaner')  are  large,  thin-skinned,  and  well-flavoured, 
and  hence  this  district  is  the  centre  of  the  'Cure'.  Oleisweiler 
(p.  252)  is  especially  frequented  on  account  of  its  favourable 
situation  and  the  proximity  of  the  vineyards,  in  which  visitors 
may  gather  the  grapes  for  themselves.  The  grapes  of  Durkheim 
(p.  249),  Annweiler  (p.  262),  Edenkoben  (p.  252),  and  Neustadt 
(p.  250)  are  also  in  great  request.  Good  desert -grapes  may, 
however,  be  procured  almost  everywhere  on  the  Rhine,  and  the 
grape-cure  may  be  undergone  at  Honnef,  the  Laubbach,  Boppard, 
St.  Ooarshaus'en,  RUdesheim,  Wiesbaden,  Badenweiler.  and  numer- 
ous other  summer-resorts. 

X.  Wines  of  the  Ehine  and  Moselle. 

Wine  is  a  subject  to  which  those  who  visit  the  land  of  the  grape 
will  naturally  expect  some  allusion,  and  although  it  must  necessa- 
rily be  noticed  but  briefly  in  a  work  like  the  present,  the  following 
remarks  may  prove  acceptable. 

No  error  has  been  more  prevalent  than  that  the  Rhenish  and 
Moselle  wines  possess  an  injurious  acidity.  Liebig  on  the  contrary 
affirms,  not  only  that  the  exquisite  bouquet  of  the  Rhine  wines 
is  owing  to  the  free  acid  which  they  contain,  but  that  some  of 
their  most  salutary  properties  arise  from  the  tartar  present  in  them. 
To  this  he  attributes  the  immunity  enjoyed  by  those  who  use 
the  German  wines  from  the  uric  acid  diathesis.    Dr.  Prout,  among 


WINK.  xxi 

many  others  who  have  investigated  the  subject,  may  be  mentioned 
as  entertaining  the  same  opinion.  Another  advantage  possessed  by 
Rhenish  wines  is  the  total  absence  of  brandy,  an  ingredient  with 
which  the  wines  of  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Sicily  are  almost  invariably 
fortified,  to  the  utter  destruction  of  their  flavour,  and  the  injury 
of  the  health  of  the  consumer.  The  diseases  which  attack  spirit* 
drinkers,  chiefly  disorders  of  the  liver,  are  commonly  met  with 
amongst  consumers  of  fortified  wines ,  though  such  maladies  rarely 
follow  even  the  intemperate  use  of  pure  wine.  That  the  addition 
of  alcohol  to  wine  is  unnecessary  for  its  preservation  is  proved  by 
the  fact  that  Rhine  wines  often  retain  their  excellence  for  half-a- 
century,  although  they  seldom  contain  more  than  eight  or  nine  per 
cent  of  alcohol.  The  very  property  of  keeping  is  indeed  mainly 
attributable  to  the  fact  that  the  fermentation  is  more  perfect  in 
Rhenish  wines  than  in  those  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  where  fermen- 
tation is  checked  by  the  addition  of  brandy.  With  the  white  wines 
of  France  the  same  object  is  effected  by  sulphuration.  By  these 
processes  the  richness  and  sweetness  of  new  wine  are  artificially  and 
unwholesomely  retained. 

While  the  palm  must  be  yielded  to  France  for  her  red  wines, 
no  country  in  the  world  can  compete  with  the  Rhenish  Provinces  in 
the  vast  variety  and  excellence  of  the  white  wines  which  they 
produce.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  from  Mayenoe  to  Bonn,  a  dis- 
tance of  90  M. ,  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  may  be  seen  in  the 
greatest  possible  perfection. 

The  traveller  who  finds  the  table- wine  of  the  hotels  unpala- 
table, and  whose  eye  wanders  in  bewilderment  over  the  4Wein- 
karte',  is  recommended  to  select  a  bottle  of  still  Hock  or  Moselle 
at  3-4  marks  per  bottle,  at  which  price  the  taste  ought  to  be  grati- 
fied. The  hotel  prices  of  the  high-class  still  wines ,  as  well  as  of 
the  sparkling  wines,  are  often  exorbitant. 

The  Rheingau,  a  district  about  15  M.  in  length,  produces  the 
finest  wines  of  the  Rhine.  Here  is  situated  Schloss  Johannisberg, 
a  most  favoured  spot,  yielding  a  wine  almost  without  rival.  As  the 
celebrated  vineyards  do  not  exceed  40  acres  in  area,  little  of  this 
rare  product  falls  to  the  share  of  the  ordinary  public.  Moreover  the 
first  quality  is  only  obtained  in  the  finest  seasons;  the  grapes 
are  selected  with  the  utmost  care  from  the  ripest  bunches ,  not 
a  drop  of  the  precious  juice  being  allowed  to  escape ;  the  yield, 
under  the  most  favourable  circumstances,  is  therefore  very  limn  ted. 
The  various  qualities  of  this  wine  are  sold  in  the  cask  at  Sohloss 
Johannisberg  by  public  auction.  It  is  remarkable  for  raciness,  de- 
licacy of  flavour,  and  bouquet,  rather  than  for  strength.  The  other 
wines  of  the  vicinity,  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Johannisberg - 
Klaus,  and  those  yielded  by  the  vineyards  of  Count  Schonborn,  are 
also  highly  esteemed.  There  is  also  'Johannisberger'  produced  from 
the  vineyards  of  the  village   of  that  name,  but  this  is  inferior  to 


xxii  WINE. 

many  of  the  other  products  of  the  Rheingau.  In  this  neighbour- 
hood 9.fe  Rudesheim  and  Oeisenheim,  both  producing  first-class  wines. 
Bingen  is  a  favourable  district  for  strong  wines ;  the  hill  behind  it 
yields  Scharlachberger.  Below  Bingen,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is 
AssmanTishausen,  the  red  wine  of  which  holds  a  high  rank  and  in 
good  vintages  vies  with  Burgundy  of  the  best  class,  being  made  from 
the  same  species  of  grape ;  but  unfortunately,  like  the  latter,  it  is 
often  impaired  by  travelling.  The  Marcobrunn  vineyard,  between 
Hattenheim  and  Erbach,  produces  a  white  wine  of  exquisite  flavour 
and  bouquet.  The  wines,  however,  which  compete  most  successfully 
with  Johannisberger  and  trench  closely  upon  its  celebrity  are  the 
Steinberger,  produced  from  the  carefully  cultivated  vineyards  on  the 
hill  at  the  back  of  Hattenheim,  and  the  Rauenthaler  Berg  (p.  128), 
the  best  vintages  of  which  are  unsurpassed  in  flavour  and  quality. 
Hochheim,  situated  on  the  Main,  yields  a  wine  of  very  superior 
quality,  and  has  given  the  name  of  'Hock'  to  the  produce  of  the 
country  generally. 

The  Valley  of  the  Rhine  below  Bingen  produces  many  pleasant 
and  wholesome  wines,  but  inferior  to  the  above.  Those  of  Enge- 
holl,  Stecg,  Oberwesel,  and  Boppard  may  be  mentioned  among  the 
white.  The  Rheinbleicherte  (i.e.  'bleich  rothe',  or  pale  red)  of 
Steeg^  Oberwesel,  and  Bacharach,  and  the  light-red  wines  of  Salzig, 
Camp,  Horchheim,  the  Kreuzberg  (near  Ehrenbreitstein),  and  Urbar 
are  also  esteemed.  Most  of  the  wines  grown  below  Coblenz  are  light- 
red.   Lins  produces  excellent  Rheinbleicherte. 

Rhenish  Bavaria  yields  a  vast  quantity  of  white  wine,  gener- 
ally known  as  wine  of  the  Haardt,  or  Palatinate.  The  best 
qualities  are  those  of  Ruppertsberg ,  Deidesheim,  and  Forst,  after 
which  rank  those  of  Ungstein,  Diirkheim,  Waehehheim,  and  Konigs- 
baeh.  Good  red  wines  are  grown  at  Gimmeldingen  and  CalUtadt.  The 
inferior  wines  of  this  district  usually  have  a  coarse,  earthy  flavour. 

Rhenish  Hessen  produces  the  excellent  ScharlocKberger  above 
mentioned,  next  to  which  rank  Niersteiner  (Qlocke),  Oppenheimcr, 
Laubenheimer,  and  Bodenheimer,  all  pleasant  wines,  but  less  delicate 
than  those  of  the  Rheingau.  Licbfrauenmilch  ('Lait  de  Notre  Dame') 
is  a  good  sound  wine  which  owes  much  of  its  reputation  to  the  su- 
perior wines  sold  under  that  name,  and  to  the  quaintness  of  the 
name  itself.  The  vineyards  where  it  is  grown  (p.  247)  are  incapable 
of  producing  a  tenth  part  of  the  wine  usually  so  called.  The  flat 
vineyards  of  Ingelheim  between  Mayence  and  Bingen  yield  a  good 
light-red  wine. 

The  Nahe  wines,  like  those  of  the  Palatinate,  possess  considerable 
body,  but  little  flavour.  That  of  the  Scharlachberg  near  Bingen  is 
sometimes  classed  as  a  Nahe  wine,  and  is  the  best  of  this  group. 

The  Valley  of  the  Ahr  is  the  most  northern  point  at  which  the 
grape  is  successfully  cultivated.  Its  light  and  wholesome  lAhr- 
bleicherU?  are  chiefly  consumed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  their  growth. 


WINE.  xxiil 

They  are  strengthening  and  astringent  in  their  properties,  and 
resemble  Burgundy  of  an  inferior  class.  The  best  are  those  of 
Walporxheim,  AkrweUcr,  and  Bodendorf. 

The  Koselle  wines  are  chiefly  grown  amidst  rugged  and  sterile- 
looking  slate  rocks,  and  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  valley  and 
want  of  sun  do  not  so  frequently  arrive  at  perfection  as  those  of  other 
districts.  They  are  distinguished  by  their  delicate,  aromatic  flavour, 
and  are  considered  remarkably  wholesome,  being  frequently  recom- 
mended to  persons  of  sedentary  habits.  The  best  are  Brauneberger 
and  Ohligsbtrgtt,  which  possess  a  delicious  'bouquet',  next  to  which 
may  be  placed  the  wines  of  Zcttiniren,  Qraach,  PisporL,  and  Orunhaus. 

The  Saar  wines  possess  less  body  than  those  of  the  Moselle,  but 
surpass  them  in  aroma,  and  contain  a  larger  proportion  of  carbonic 
acid  gas.   Seharxhofberger  is  a  most  excellent  wine  of  this  district. 

Xarkgrafler,  the  wine  of  the  Duchy  of  Baden  (Affmtkal  red, 
KUnyenbcrg  white),  the  wines  of  Alaace,  the  Vector  wines,  and 
those  of  the  BergitrmiM  (pp.  224,  227)  are  almost  entirely  con- 
sumed in  their  respective  districts.  The  Franoonian  wines  which 
grow  on  the  Main  near  Wuraburg  are  abundant,  but  generally  coarse 
and  earthy  in  flavour.  LctiUn-  Wein  and  Stem-  Wein  are,  however, 
really  good  varieties. 

The  wines  of  the  first  half  of  the  present  century  are  now  either 
entirely  consumed,  or  at  most  linger  in  stray  bottles  in  the  cellars 
of  a  few  connoisseurs.  The  vintage  of  1846  was  celebrated,  that  of 
1848  tolerable.  The  crops  of  the  following  nine  years  were  very 
poor,  but  in  1857,  1868,  and  1859  the  vineyard  -  proprietors  were 
rewarded  with  three  vintages  of  a  very  high  class ,  which  were  at 
first  thought  to  be  the  best  of  the  present  century ,  but  did  not 
afterwards  realise  the  expectations  to  which  they  had  given  rise. 
The  yield  of  1862  was  very  good,  particularly  in  the  Kheingau, 
but  limited,  that  of  1865  copious  and  of  high  quality ,  except  in 
the  Rheingau,  and  that  of  1868  also  very  fine  and  plentiful.  The 
years  1869  and  1870  yielded  good  average  wines,  which  gradu- 
ally came  into  notice  as  those  of  earlier  vintages  became  scarce. 
The  qrop  of  1871  was  a  failure ,  that  of  1872  was  of  good  average 
value,  and  that  of  1873  poor.  The  wines  of  1874  were  generally  of 
fair  quality,  but  those  of  the  Rheingau  were  not  quite  satisfactory. 
The  vintage  of  1875,  though  excellent  at  places  (such  as  Deidesheim 
and  Forst  in  the  Haardt),  was  on  the  whole  inferior  to  that  of  1874. 
The  vintages  of  1876-1880  were  mediocre  both  in  quality  and 
quantity. 

Sparkling  Wines.  The  effervescing  German  wines  were  first 
manufactured  at  Esstingcn  (in  1826),  Wiirzburg,  and  Treves,  and 
afterwards  at  Mayence,  Hochheimy  RMtshtim,  Coblenz,  and  various 
other  places.  These  wines,  generally  known  in  England  as  Sparkling 
Hock  and  Moselle,  are  distinguished  from  the  French  wines  by  the 
predominance  of  the  flavour  of  the  grape ,  and  when  obtained  in 


xxvi  RHENISH  ART, 

supposed  to  have  been  familiar  with  art ,  bat  of  whose  labours*in 
that  sphere  nothing  certain  is  known.  To  him  is  attributed  the 
building  of  the  Palace  Chapel  at  Aix-la-ChapcUc  (now  the  Cathe- 
dral], which  is  still  in  comparatively  good  preservation.  It  is 
obviously  a  copy  of  the  court-chapel  at  Ravenna  (S.  Vitale) ,  but 
has  been  more  judiciously  and  articulately  designed,  and  has  in  its 
turn  served  as  a  model  for  later  edifices,  for  which  either  its  ground- 
plan  (as  at  Ottmarsheim  in  Alsace),  or  its  double  row  of  columns  in 
the  interior  of  the  rotunda  (as  in  the  case  of  8t.  Maria  im  Capitol 
at  Cologne  and  the  Munster  at  Essen},  has  been  borrowed. 

The  magnificence  of  the  palaces  which  the  great  emperor  pos- 
sessed on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  was  a  favourite  theme  with  the 
poets  and  prose-writers  of  the  day.  According  to  their  accounts  the 
Palace  at  Jngelheim  was  not  inferior  in  splendour  to  that  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle  itself ,  but  of  that  edifice  there  is  now  no  trace  beyond  a 
few  fragments  of  walls  and  of  columns  which  have  been  transferred 
to  other  buildings.  —  During  the  later  Carlovingian  period  the 
Rhineland  again  suffered  severely  from  an  irruption  of  barbarians. 
At  this  period  the  Normans  took  possession  of  the  banks  of  the 
river  and  penetrated  into  its  side-valleys ;  but  civilisation  was  now 
too  far  advanced  to  be  seriously  retarded  by  this  catastrophe. 

Endowed  with  a  rich  art- heritage  handed  down  by  antiquity, 
the  Rhenish-Franconian  tribes  gradually  overspread  the  country 
after  the  middle  of  the  10th  cent, ,  from  which  period  down  to  the 
Reformation  the  development  of  Rhenish  art  is  traceable  without 
interruption. 

In  the  Early  Middlb  Agrs  (10th-12th  cent.)  Rhenish  art 
differed  materially  from  that  of  most  other  parts  of  Germany  in 
being  the  product  of  an  already  cultivated  soil,  where  ancient 
models  were  abundant,  while  in  these  other  districts  it  was  the 
growth  of  a  soil  previously  untilled.  On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
were  preserved  fragments  of  Roman  and  early  Christian  edifices ; 
there  the  eye  was  familiar  with  architectural  forms  and  mouldings ; 
in  the  Rhenish  towns  were  always  to  be  found  artificers  possessed 
of  considerable  manual  skill ;  and  owing  to  the  constant  com- 
munication kept  up  with  foreign  places  skilled  labour  could  always 
be  readily  imported  when  necessary.  Rhenish  art  was  thus  matured 
considerably  earlier  than  that  of  Lower  Saxony  and  Swabia.  At 
the  same  time  the  features  common  to  the  whole  of  early  mediaeval 
art  in  the  west  recur  in  that  of  the  Rhine  also.  The  forms  of 
worship  having  been  well  defined  in  the  early  Christian  period, 
the  churches  all  present  a  certain  uniformity  of  appearance.  Like 
the  early  Christian  basilicas,  the  Rhenish  churches  of  the  10th- 
12th  cent,  are  of  an  elongated  form ;  they  possess  aisles  which  are 
lower  and  narrower  than  the  nave ;  the  altar  is  placed  at  the  round- 
ed extremity  of  the  nave-;  and  on  the  whole  the  basilica  type  is 
preserved  throughout. 


RHENISH  ART.  xxvii 

The  Rhenish  edifices  also  possess  the  characteristics  of  the 
Komaneftque  Style,  which  are  common  to  the  great  majority  of 
works  of  the  10th-12th  centuries.  In  this  style  the  pillars  and 
columns  are  connected  by  means  of  round  arches,  the  doors  and 
windows  also  terminate  in  round  arches ,  and  the  naves  and  aisles 
are  either  covered  with  flat  roofs  or  with  groined  vaulting  of  round- 
ed form.  The  Cubical  Capital ,  which  was  probably  invented  by 
mediaeval  architects  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  harmonious  con- 
necting link  between  the  column  and  the  arch  above ,  is  also  used 
in  the  Rhineland ,  and  the  copings  and  mouldings  of  the  Rhenish 
buildings  are  the  same  as  those  employed  in  the  contemporaneous 
edifices  of  Western  Europe.  The  Rhenish  architecture,  however,  oc- 
cupies an  independent  position  of  its  own  within  the  Romanesque 
group.  The  character  of  the  building-material  (red  sandstone  or 
tufa) ,  local  traditions ,  and  the  prevalent  taste  of  the  period  all 
combine  to  impart  to  the  Rhenish  buildings  a  distinctive  character 
which  seldom  or  never  recurs  in  other  countries.  At  an  early  period 
the  use  of  alternate  courses  of  different  colours  came  into  vogue. 
Thus  we  find  arches  faced  with  stone  alternating  with  light-coloured 
brick ,  the  latter  material  having  been  taken  from  Roman  ruins ; 
and  when  the  architects  had  exhausted  their  supply  of  bricks,  the 
art  of  making  which  was  unknown  in  Germany  in  the  early  middle 
ages ,  they  produced  the  same  effect  by  the  use  of  dark  and  light 
coloured  stones.  The  copings  on  pillars  and  walls  were  generally 
copied  from  Roman  models ,  and  the  ancient  Corinthian  Capital*, 
formed  of  a  wreath  of  leaves,  were  copied  with  varying  success. 
The  most  curious  instance  of  this  is  afforded  by  the  Justinui-Kirehe 
at  Hoehsty  the  columns  of  which,  though  executed  in  the  11th 
cent.,  look  as  if  they  had  been  borrowed  from  some  ancient  edifice. 
The  long-established  practice  of  art,  and  the  wealth  which  the 
Rhenish  towns  succeeded  in  amassing  at  an  early  period,  enabled 
them  gradually  to  extend  the  dimensions  of  their  churches ,  to 
develop  the  construction  of  vaulting  earlier  than  elsewhere ,  and 
to  impart  to  their  buildings  a  picturesque  richness  of  effect.  — 
The  same  conditions  were  likewise  favourable  to  the  development 
of  the  Goldsmith's  Art,  and  that  of  Enambl  Painting.  The 
Rhinelanders  also  attained  considerable  proficiency  in  Mubal 
Painting  at  an  early  period ,  but  fof  the  plastic  art  they  displayed 
less  aptitude. 

As  early  as  the  11th  cent,  the  practice  of  art  and  of  artistic 
handicrafts  seems  to  have  become  naturalised  in  the  Rhenish  towns 
and  in  those  of  Lorraine.  In  all  the  larger  towns  extensive  building 
operations  were  undertaken ,  and  at  the  same  time  a  number  of 
handsome  abbey-churches  sprang  up.  At  Strassburg  a  cathedral  was 
erected  by  Bishop  Werner;  at  Cologne  the  archbishops  Heribert  and 
Anno  exhibited  much  zeal  for  church-building ;  and  at  Trlves  the 
cathedral  waa  extended  by  Poppo.     The  grandest  monuments   of 


xxviii  RHENISH  ART. 

German  medisval  art ,  however ,  are  the  three  Central  Rhenish 
Cathedrals  of  Spires,  Mayence ,  and  Worms ,  examples  of  the 
golden  prime  of  a  style  which  began  and  also  ended  earlier  here 
than  in  other  northern  districts.  It  was  not  till  the  Gothic  period 
that  France  and  England  fully  realised  their  architectural  ideals, 
while  the  independent  exertions  of  German  masters  had  already 
culminated  in  their  Romanesque  cathedrals.  It  has  frequently 
been  asserted  that  these  cathedrals  originally  possessed  flat  roofs 
only ,  and  were  not  covered  with  vaulting  till  the  12th  cent. ;  but 
it  is  at  least  probable  in  the  case  of  the  cathedral  of  Spires  that  it 
was  completely  vaulted  in  during  the  11th  cent. ,  to  which  period 
its  huge  crypt  and  massive  articulation  undoubtedly  belong.  The 
charming  Abbey  Church  of  Loach  proves  that  vaulted  churches  were 
easily  and  skilfully  constructed  in  the  first  half  of  the  12th  cent. , 
notwithstanding  the  novelty  of  the  style.  While  the  pillars  of  this 
church  are  of  uniform  pattern  and  are  placed  at  considerable  inter- 
vals, those  of  the  Central  Rhenish  cathedrals  are  placed  much 
closer  together,  and  those  which  bear  the  vaulting  are  differently 
shaped  from  those  supporting  the  arcades. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  for  a  considerable  part 
of  the  13th,  Cologne  was  the  chief  cradle  of  Rhenish  art.  The  sa- 
credness  of  the  city  as  the  custodian  of  the  highly  revered  relics  of 
the  Magi,  combined  with  the  wealth  and  the  political  power  of  its 
enterprising  citizens,  not  only  led  to  the  rebuilding  of  all  the  prin- 
cipal churches  at  this  period,  but  were  conducive  to  the  general  pro- 
gress of  architecture,  and  contributed  to  impart  a  rich  and  pictur- 
esque decorative  character  to  the  city  itself.  The  architects  do  not 
seem  to  have  aimed  at  grandeur  of  dimensions.  The  naves  of  the 
churches  are  usually  small  and  insignificant ,  but  the  builders  ex- 
pended their  utmost  skill  on  the  embellishment  of  the  choirs.  The 
apse,  in  combination  with  the  rounded  transepts ,  was  regarded  as 
the  nucleus  of  the  church ,  the  other  distinctive  features  of  which 
consisted  of  the  gable  of  the  choir,  the  dome,  and  the  towers.  As  an 
example  of  the  picturesque  effect  of  this  arrangement  we  may  men- 
tion the  Church  of  the  Apostles  at  Cologne  when  viewed  from  the 
Neumarkt.  At  the  same  time  variety  of  ornament ,  richness  of  ar- 
ticulation, and  pleasing  effects  of  colour  were  also  studied.  Immed- 
iately under  the  roof  runs  a  gallery ,  which  is  of  some  structural 
importance  inasmuch  as  it  lessens  the  dead  weight  of  the  wall,  but 
is  also  effective  in  a  decorative  point  of  view  as  the  small  columns 
stand  out  in  strong  contrast  to  the  dark  background.  Generally, 
indeed,  the  Rhenish  masters  appear  to  have  devoted  much  attention 
to  such  effects  of  light  and  shade.  Under  the  gallery  runs  a  frieze 
consisting  of  dark  slabs  framed  with  light-coloured  stone ;  the  col- 
umns and  half-columns  are  of  a  different  material  from  the  walls ; 
and  even  the  wall-pillars  are  composed  of  differently  coloured  stones. 
In  keeping  with  this  picturesque  character  is  the  richness  of  the 


RHENISH  ART.  xxix 

ornamentation.  The  architects  were  not  satisfied  with  straight  and 
simple  lines.  Their  windows  are  either  round  or  fan-shaped ,  and 
they  are  disposed  in  groups  or  enclosed  within  a  pointed  arch.  The 
portals  consist  of  archways  resting  on  several  columns ;  the  space 
above  the  doors  is  filled  with  sculpture ;  and  the  facade  is  enlivened 
with  narrow  pillars  and  entwined  arches.  Buildings  of  this  char- 
acter, whioh  are  typical  of  the  Rhineland,  and  occur  in  almost  every 
town  of  any  importance,  are  usually  described  as  belonging  to  the 
Transitional  8tylb,  as  if  the  forms  recurring  in  them  were  iden- 
tical with  those  which  pave  the  way  for  the  Gothic.  The  term, 
however,  is  entirely  misapplied,  as  it  is  impossible  in  the  rich  and 
handsome  Rhenish  churches  of  the  12th  and  beginning  of  the  13th 
cent,  to  discover  the  slightest  germ  of  the  Gothic  style.  The  style 
may,  however,  be  appropriately  characterised  as  the  final  and  most 
ornate  manifestation  of  Romanesque  architecture,  a  definition  which 
is  borne  out  by  the  general  tendencies  of  Rhenish  art.  As  an  auxil- 
iary of  this  style  we  may  now  mention  the  art  of  Mural  Painting, 
which  was  developed  at  an  unusually  early  period.  Most  of  these 
paintings  were  unfortunately  covered  with  whitewash  at  a  later  pe- 
riod, but  those  still  existing  (at  Sehwarx-Rheindorf,  opposite  Bonn, 
the  paintings  of  which  resemble  a  symbolic  poem ,  at  Brauweiler 
near  Cologne,  in  St.  Maria  im  Capitol  at  Cologne,  etc.)  exhibit  a 
rich  and  thoughtful  style  of  composition,  and  show  that  the  painters 
were  skilled  in  drawing  and  even  in  the  delineation  of  complicated 
action.  We  cannot  with  any  certainty  judge  of  the  colouring ,  but 
we  at  least  possess  sufficient  materials  to  warrant  the  inference  that 
the  art  of  wall-painting  was  industriously  practised  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rhine  as  early  as  the  second  half  of  the  12th  century. 

This  prevalent  branch  of  the  Romanesque  style,  with  its  highly 
developed  ornamentation,  was  not  hastily  abandoned  by  the  Rhenish 
masters,  and  it  was  not  till  about  the  year  1250  that  the  Gothic 
Style,  introduced  from  France,  was  completely  nationalised  in  this 
part  of  Germany.  The  precise  manner  in  which  the  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, with  its  spirited  flying  buttresses,  lofty  vaulting,  and  other 
members  relieving  the  monotony  of  the  walls ,  was  introduced  into 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is  unknown ;  but  it  was  probably  adopted 
simultaneously  at  several  different  points.  At  Cologne  we  observe 
in  the  church  of  St.  Oereon  an  attempt  to  apply  the  new  precepts  to 
the  old  forms,  and  in  the  church  of  the  Minorites  we  have  a  some- 
what plain  example  of  Gothic  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  13th 
century.  In  the  Liebfrauenkirche  at  Treves  the  Gothic  forms  were 
successfully  adapted  at  an  early  period  to  an  unusual  ground-plan. 
The  Cistercian  Church  at  Marienstatt  in  Nassau  is  a  fine  example  of 
the  early  Gothic  style,  destitute  as  yet  of  all  ornamentation,  and  to 
the  same  style  belong  the  church  of  Rufach  in  Alsace  and  the  west- 
ern parts  of  8t.  Thomas  at  Strassburg.  In  the  second  half  of  the 
13th  cent,  began  the  construction  of  the  great  Gothic  Cathedrals, 


xxx  RHENISBT  ART. 

Those  of  Cologne  and  Met*  were  designed  entirely  in  the  Gothic 
style,  while  at  Strassburg  and  Freiburg  the  earlier  Romanesque  be- 
ginnings were  adapted  to  the  new  Gothic  work.  Goethe  has  con- 
tributed much  to  immortalise  the  name  of  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  who 
is  usually  described  as  the  originator  of  the  cathedral  of  Strassburg, 
but  that  master's  actual  share  of  the  work  seems  to  have  been  limit- 
ed to  the  facade  and  the  raising  of  the  nave  and  aisles ,  including 
the  disposition  of  the  windows.  The  masters  of  the  Strassburg  as 
well  as  of  the  Cologne  cathedral  must  have  been  thoroughly  con- 
versant with  the  details  of  French  Gothic ,  but  they  were  very  faT 
from  being  mere  mechanical  copyists.  The  facade  at  Cologne  and 
the  tower  at  Strassburg  are  entirely  emanations  of  German  imagi- 
nation. In  order,  however,  to  convince  himself  of  the  independence 
of  the  German  masters  of  the  Gothic  style  the  traveller  must  not 
confine  his  attention  to  the  great  cathedrals.  Among  the  Smaller 
Gothic  Churches  he  will  discover  frequent  proofs  of  originality 
and  not  a  few  gems  of  architecture.  Among  these  smaller  churches 
we  may  mention  the  grave  and  dignified  Abbey  Church  ofAltcnberg, 
near  Cologne,  and  the  Collegiate  Church  of  Xanten ,  erected  under 
the  influence  of  Cologne  masters ;  the  superb  Church  of  St.  Cathe- 
rine at  Oppenheim  and  the  ponderous  Cathedral  of  Frankfort  on  the 
Central  Rhine;  and  lastly,  in  Alsace,  the  Church  of  St.  George  at 
Schlettstadt,  the  Church  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  at  Weissenburg,  the 
church  of  Nieder-Haslach ,  and  that  of  Thann,  with  its  graceful 
tower.  The  numerous  churches  of  the  Mendicant  and  Dominican- 
orders,  some  of  which  have  nave  and  aisles  of  equal  height,  are  gen- 
erally too  plain  and  monotonous  to  arouse  much  general  interest. 

The  highest  efforts  of  the  Gothic  architects  in  this  part  of  Ger- 
many were  devoted  to  the  building  of  churches ,  but  the  Rhenish 
districts  also  contain  Secular  Edifices  ,  including  castles ,  town- 
halls  ,  guild-houses ,  and  private  mansions ,  which  present  Gothic 
forms  or  at  least  Gothic  characteristics. 

The  eye,  however,  is  less  frequently  struck  by  buildings  of  this 
class  than  by  the  churches,  partly  because  well-preserved  examples 
are  now  comparatively  rare,  and  partly  because  in  secular  archi- 
tecture generally  there  is  usually  less  room  for  marked  changes  of 
style.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the  middle  ages  the  dwelling-houses, 
for  example,  were  constructed  of  timber,  and  the  character  of  their 
ornamentation  was  rather  determined  by  the  nature  of  the  material 
than  by  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Even  in  the  case  of  the  stone 
houses  the  projecting  upper  stories  frequently  recall  the  style  of 
their  wooden  predecessors.  The  architectural  character  of  the 
palaces,  chateaux,  and  castles,  on  the  other  hand ,  was  necessarily 
determined  by  military  considerations.  As  the  requirements  of  both 
defensive  and  offensive  operations  were  almost  equally  important 
during  the  11th  cent,  and  again  during  the  13th,  the  chateaux  and 
pasties  retained  the  same  forms  for  several  centuries.     Of  Barba- 


RHENISH  ART.  xxxi 

rossa's  residence  at  Gelnhausen,  an  imperial  palace  of  the  Roman- 
esque period,  there  still  exist  considerable  rains.  The  palace  of  the 
same  emperor  at  Hagenau  (1157)  was  entirely  destroyed  during 
the  Thirty  Years1  War.  Among  the  mediaeval  Castles  those  of 
Alsace  are  very  numerous  and  important.  The  most  considerable 
are  the  three  Castles  of  BappoUsweiler,  that  of  Hoh-Barr  near  Sa- 
vera©  (1170),  the  Hohen-Konigsburg,  the  Wasenburg,  near  Nieder- 
bronn,  and  the  Liehtenberg  near  Neuweiler,  the  last  three  belonging 
to  the  Gothic  period.  Most  of  the  hills  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine 
and  its  tributaries  are  also  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  medieval 
castles.  In  most  cases  the  pinnacled  Berg  fried,  or  Donjon ,  which 
was  used  both  for  purposes  of  attack  and  defence,  is  still  standing ; 
remains  of  the  Palace,  or  dwelling-house,  are  also  frequently  pre- 
served ;  and  in  many  cases  the  outworks,  gateways,  and  towers  by 
which  the  approach  to  the  castle  was  protected  are  still  traceable. 
These  ruins,  however,  which  impart  so  picturesque  a  charm  to  the 
scenery  of  the  Rhine,  rarely  possess  much  artistic  value.  The  most 
interesting  of  the  Rhenish  castles  is  that  of  Reichenberg,  near  St. 
Goarshausen,  with  its  three  stories  borne  by  columns. 

The  Gothic  architecture  is  also  notable  for  the  richness  of  its 
Plastic  Ornamentation.  The  portals  and  the  various  niches 
and  canopies  are  generally  filled  with  statues,  and  the  gables  and 
other  parts  of  the  building  adorned  with  reliefs.  The  finest  speci- 
mens of  Gothic  statuary  are  to  be  seen  on  the  Portals  of  the  Lieb- 
frauenkirche  at  Treves  and  the  Cathedrals  of  Strassburg  and  Frei- 
burg. The  Statues  of  the  Apostles  in  the  choir  of  the  Cologne  Cathe- 
dral also  afford  evidence  that  the  Gothic  sculpture  was  sometimes 
richly  coloured.  The  same  cathedral  also  contains  the  Monument 
of  Archbishop  Conrad  v.  Hochstaden,  the  finest  specimen  of  bronze 
statuary  of  the  Gothic  period.  The  numerous  tombstones  of  that 
period  must  also  be  examined  by  the  student  of  the  progress  of 
Gothic  sculpture,  such  as  those  of  Archbishop  Siegfried,  Peter  Aspelt, 
and  Johann  von  Nassau,  in  the  Cathedral  of  Mayence,  and  those  of 
Gunther  von  Schwartburg  and  Holzhausen  and  his  Wife  in  the  Ca- 
thedral of  Frankfort.  The  best  examples  of  late-Gothic  sculpture, 
which  afterwards  degenerated  into  a  mere  handicraft,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  altars  of  carved  wood. 

Throughout  the  middle  ages,  however,  Rhenish  artists  evinc- 
ed more  aptitude  for  the  art  of  Painting  than  for  that  of  sculpture. 
The  stained  glass  at  Strassburg,  Cologne,  and  Oppenheim,  and  the 
remains  of  14th  cent,  mural  paintings  at  Cologne  are  not  less  val- 
uable than  the  easel-pictures  of  the  15th  cent,  which  are  still  pre- 
served. At  this  period,  as  in  the  12th  cent.,  Cologne  continued  to 
be  the  cradle  of  Rhenish  art.  The  Cologne  School  of  Painting 
was  the  first  of  those  which  attained  to  any  celebrity  on  German 
soil.  The  earliest  master  of  the  school  known  to  us  by  name  is 
UeUUr  Wilhtlm,  who  flourished  at  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  and 


xxxii  RHENISH  ART. 

from  whose  brash  we  possess  one  authentic  work  in  the  faded  mural 
paintings  of  the  Hansa-Saal  in  the  Rathhaus  of  Cologne  (now  pre- 
served in  the  Museum).  A  number  of  easel-pieces,  such  as  the 
altar-piece  of  St.  Clara  in  the  cathedral ,  are  attributed  to  him  with 
little  or  no  foundation.  There  is,  however,  better  authority  for 
attributing  to  Meiater  Stephan  Lochner  the  execution  of  the  Dom- 
bild,  the  finest  German  painting  of  the  15th  century.  This  master, 
who  was  a  native  of  the  district  of  Constance,  and  died  in  1451, 
has  been  successful  in  substituting  figures  of  considerable  spirit 
and  life  for  the  traditional  types  of  his  predecessors,  with  their 
emaciated  limbs,  their  undeveloped  busts ,  and  their  childish  ex- 
pression of  countenance,  but  he  has  failed  to  take  the  next  step  to- 
wards fidelity  to  nature  in  omitting  to  individualise  his  characters. 
His  female  figures  are  all  exactly  alike,  and  his  male  figures,  though 
divided  into  young  and  old,  are  also  destitute  of  distinctive  charac- 
ter. In  his  treatment  of  the  drapery,  weapons,  gold  trinkets, 
and  all  other  external  accessories,  however,  Meister  Stephan  cannot 
be  reproached  with  the  fault  of  monotony ;  in  executing  these  de- 
tails he  is  scrupulously  faithful  to  nature,  and  his  task  was  doubt- 
less facilitated  by  his  occasional  use  of  the  newly  invented  art  of 
oil-painting.  The  Dombild  and  the  somewhat  earlier  Seminary 
Madonna  (preserved  in  the  Archi episcopal  Museum)  are  the  most 
important  works  of  this  school,  the  career  of  which  somewhat  re- 
sembled that  of  the  early  Flemish  school  under  the  leadership  of 
Hubert  van  Eyck.  The  Rhenish  masters,  however,  were  soon  sur- 
passed by  their  Flemish  contemporaries,  and  ere  long  entirely  lost 
their  independence.  About  the  end  of  the  15th  cent,  the  art  of 
painting  in  the  Rhineland  was  at  length  thoroughly  pervaded  with 
Flemish  influence.  The  new  style,  however,  was  least  successfully 
imitated  on  the  Lower  Rhine,  and  particularly  at  Cologne.  A 
number  of  pictures  of  the  end  of  the  15th  and  beginning  of  the 
16th  cent. ,  collected  by  the  brothers  Boissere'e  and  Hr.  Wallraf, 
which  were  formerly  ascribed  to  Netherlands  masters,  have  recently 
been  pronounced  to  be  the  works  of  painters  of  Cologne,  not  only 
from  the  fact  that  they  were  found  in  churches  of  Cologne ,  but 
owing  to  their,  marked  Lower  Rhenish  characteristics.  They  pre- 
sent at  the  same  time  strong  traces  of  Flemish  influence,  but  the 
Flemish  models  are  either  exaggerated  or  but  rudely  imitated.  The 
drawing  is  stiff ,  the  colouring  gaudy ,  and  the  expression  harsh. 
These  works  are  generally  classed  in  accordance  with  their  subjects ; 
and  we  thus  frequently  hear  of  the  'Master  of  the  Lyvergberg  Pas- 
sion', the  'Master  of  the  St.  Bartholomew',  and  other  equally  vague 
designations.  The  historian  of  art  will  find  abundant  opportunity 
of  studying  this  school  in  the  Museum  of  Cologne  ,  but  the  subject 
is  not  one  that  will  interest  ordinary  travellers.  One  of  the  best 
masters  of  the  Lower  Rhine  was  Jan  Joest  of  Calcar,  who  painted' 
the  high  altar-piece  in  the  principal  church  there  about  1505. 


RHENISH  ART.  xxxtil 

Portrait-painting  was  also  practised  with  some  success  at  this  period 
by  Barthel  de  Bruyn,  Johann  von  Mehlem,  and  others. 

The  Uppbb  Rhenish  and  Albmannian  School  op  Painting 
had  a  more  prosperous  career  than  the  Lower  Rhenish.  The  masters 
of  this  school  also  succumbed  to  Flemish  influence,  but  they  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  better  use  of  what  they  had  learned  in  the 
Netherlands.  At  the  head  of  the  school  was  Martin  Sehongauer  of 
Colmar  (d.  1488),  a  pupil  of  Roger  Tan  der  Weyden,  and  more 
famous  as  an  engraver  than  as  a  painter.  The  engraver's  art ,  in- 
deed, fostered  by  the  advance  of  scientific  pursuits,  was  more 
rapidly  and  successfully  developed  than  that  of  painting.  The 
Younger  Holbein ,  Mathias  Qrunewald ,  and  Hans  Baldung  Orien 
were  also  members  of  this  school,  but  as  their  training  was  not 
strictly  Rhenish  they  are  only  mentioned  here  in  passing. 

When,  at  a  somewhat  later  period,  the  tide  of  the  Benaiuanoe 
overflowed  theRhineland,  it  met  with  little  or  no  resistance.  After 
a  brief  conflict  with  the  Gothic  architecture,  which  gave  rise  to  the 
erection  of  a  number  of  curious  buildings  in  a  mixed  style,  the 
Renaissance,  introduced  from  France  and  Flanders,  and  possessing 
little  In  common  with  the  genuine  Italian  Renaissance,  became 
naturalised  on  the  banks  of  the  Rhine  about  the  middle  of  the  16th 
century.  This  new  style  of  art,  however,  never  throve  satisfactorily 
on  Rhenish  soil,  partly  because  the  Rhineland  had  ceased  to  be  a 
great  centre  of  civilisation  as  it  had  been  in  the  middle  ages,  part- 
ly because  the  sway  of  ecclesiastical  princes  is  less  favourable  to  the 
steady  progress  of  art  than  that  of  hereditary  sovereigns,  and  also 
because  this  unfortunate  region  was  the  theatre  of  numerous  wars 
which  of  course  paralysed  all  artistic  effort.  Although  Renaissance 
art  never  took  the  form  of  a  permanent  and  organic  system,  it  has 
bequeathed  to  the  Rhineland  several  works  of  great  Importance. 
Foremost  among  these  is  the  Castle  of  Heidelberg,  the  most  sumptu- 
ous example  of  German  Renaissance,  next  to  which  we  may  men- 
tion the  Porch  of  the  Rathhaus  of  Cologne,  the  fragment  of  the 
Rathhaus  ofJulich,  and  the  Schloss  ofAschaffenburg.  On  the  Upper 
Rhine,  in  the  Palatinate,  and  in  Baden  we  encounter  a  number  of 
handsome  chateaux  and  pleasing  houses  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  16th  cent.,  but  as  a  rule  all  other  styles  were  completely  over- 
shadowed and  obscured  by  that  of  the  Jesuits. 

The  history  of  the  Plastic  Am  of  the  Renaissance  period  is 
traceable  in  the  numerous  tombstones  of  the  16th  and  17th  cen- 
turies, which  are  to  be  found  not  only  in  the  large  churches  of  the 
principal  towns,  but  also  in  smaller  and  more  remote  places,  such 
as  Simmern,  Boppard,  and  8t.  Arnual  near  Saarbrucken.  A  strik- 
ingly beautiful  work  of  a  late  period  is  the  tomb  of  the  saint  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Ursula  at  Cologne,  which  was  executed  in  1619. 

The  dependence  of  the  Rhineland  on  the  Netherlands,  which  is 
often  noticeable  in  the  province  of  architecture,  is  still  more  ob- 

Ba«dekur'8  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  c 


xxxiv  RHENISH  ART. 

vious  in  the  Painting  of  this  period.  Numerous  Netherlands 
masters  migrated  to  the  German  courts,  and  the  Germans  them- 
selves imitated  these  foreign  masters,  even  when  they  drew  their 
inspirations  from  the  Italians.  In  the  second  half  of  the  16th 
cent,  the  German  masters  fell  under  the  influence  of  the  Dutch 
school,  and  when  French  taste  came  to  he  in  vogue  they  again 
yielded  their  homage  to  the  fashion  of  the  day.  Many  of  these 
painters,  even  down  to  the  18th  cent.,  such  as  Junker,  Seekatt, 
and  Roos  of  Frankfort,  possessed  considerable  natural  ability  and 
manual  skill,  but  at  the  present  day  their  works  are  well-nigh 
consigned  to  oblivion. 

The  most  imposing  of  the  Rhenish  edifices  of  last  century  are 
the  palaces  in  the  Rococo  or  Baroqub  Sttlb,  erected  by  the*  vari- 
ous petty  Rhenish  princes,  temporal  and  spiritual,  in  imitation  of 
the  palace  of  Versailles,  such  as  those  of  Carlsruhe,  Mannheim, 
Bruchsal,  BruM,  and  Bonn. 

At  the  close  of  the  century  the  Rhenish  principalities  were 
swept  away  by  the  French  Revolution,  and  with  them  were  extin- 
guished the  last  signs  of  the  vitality  of  art.  After  the  restoration 
of  peace,  however,  a  revival  began  to  take  place.  BoissereVs  col- 
lection was  the  means  of  bringing  early  Rhenish  art  into  very 
favourable  notice  and  of  inspiring  the  public  with  confidence  in  the 
capabilities  of  Rhenish  artists.  The  'Romanticists'  were  desirous 
that  Cologne  should  be  made  the  new  centre  of  art  and  science,  but 
in  1818  the  university  was  founded  at  Bonn,  and  in  1819  the 
academy  at  DUssbldorf.  The  painter  Cornelius,  who  was  appoint- 
ed director  of  the  academy,  and  who  usually  spent  the  winter 
only  at  Dusseldorf  (and  the  summer  at  Munich),  exercised  no  great 
influence  on  the  progress  of  Rhenish  art.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Wilhekn  Schadow  (1827),  under  whose  able  guidance  the  Dussel- 
dorf School  was  brought  into  the  right  track  and  secured  the  favour 
of  the  public.  The  chief  subjects  of  the  painters  of  this  period  are 
scenes  from  private  life,  melancholy,  sentimental,  and  humorous,  or 
poetical  themes  readily  intelligible  to  the  middle  classes  of  society, 
and  their  style  is  generally  pleasing.  Some  of  the  masters  of  this 
school,  and  particularly  Lessing,  have  also  chosen  themes  of  the 
deepest  national  interest.  Forty  years  have  elapsed  since  the  Dussel- 
dorf School  first  attained  celebrity,  and  the  public  taste  has  under- 
gone material  changes  since  that  period,  but  the  industrious  colony 
of  painters  on  the  banks  of  theDussel  still  deservedly  enjoys  a  high 
reputation.  Lastly  we  may  mention  Veifs  studio  at  Maybncb,  the 
school  of  art  connected  with  the  Stadel  Gallery  at  Frankfort,  and 
the  academy  of  Carlsruhb,  forming  a  kind  of  offshoot  of  the  Dfis- 
seldorf  School,  at  all  of  which  modern  German  painting  is  taught 
and  practised  with  considerable  success. 


1.  From  Brussels  to  Cologne. 

138V2  H.  By  Express  in  61/2  brs.  (fares  26  fr.  25,  19  fr.  25  c).  Small 
articles  of  luggage  retained  in  the  carriage  are  examined  at  Herbestbal, 
registered  luggage  on  arrival  at  Cologne.  Finest  views  between  Louvain 
and  Liege  to  the  right.  District  between  Liege  and  Aix-Ja-CIiapelle  repTeTe 
with  interest.  - 

The  beiTgisch-Makkish  Railway  for  Dilueldorf  diverges  from  the  line 
described  below  at  Verviers  (p.  3),  and  runs  via  Bleyberg  (custom-house) 
and  Aix-la-Chapelle  (Templerbend  Station).  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  to  Diie- 
seldorf,  see  B.  5.  Through-carriages  at  Brussels  for  Duaseldorf  (Berlin,  etc.)* 

Brussels  f.  —  Hotels  in  the  Place  Royale,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
town :  Bbllevue,  De  Flandre,  De  lEubopb,  Mbngelle,  all  expensive.  In 
the  lower  part  of  the  town:  Grand  Hotel  de  Bbuxellks,  Boulevard 
Central;  Hotel  de  Suede,  Bue  de  TEveque;  De  Sake  and  De  l'Univess 
in  the  Bue  Ueuve,  leading  from  the  station  'into  the  town.  De  la  Poste, 
Bue  Foss^-aux-Loups  5  Dk  Vienne,  Bue  de  la  Fourche,  less  pretending. 

English  Church  Service  at  the  Church  of  the  Resurrection,  in  the  Bue 
Stassart,  completed  in  1874;  at  the  chapel  near  the  Porte  de  Namur;  and 
at  the  French  Protestant  Church,  Bue  Belliard. 

Brussels,  the  capital  of  Belgium  and  residence  of  the  king,  con- 
tains, including  the  suburbs,  about  400,000  inhab. ,  2/3rd8  of  whom 
speak  Flemish,  and  i/^rd  French.  Like  Paris  it  possesses  its  parks, 
boulevards,  cafeVchantants,  and  other  attractions ;  but  this  Paris 
in  miniature  should  be  seen  before  the  great  French  metropolis  by 
those  who  would  avoid  disappointment. 

The  passing  visitor  is  recommended  to  take  the  following  walk, 
which  will  occupy  half-a-day :  Adjacent  to  the  Rue  Neuve,  which 
leads  from  the  station  into  the  city,  rises  the  *MartyrJ  Monument, 
designed  by  Oeefs,  and  erected  in  1838  to  the  memory  of  those  who 
fell  in  the  war  with  Holland  in  1830. 

Then  past  the  ThSdtre  Royal  to  the  *H6tel  de  Ville.  The 
E.  half  of  the  magnificent  facade  of  the  latter  was  begun  in  1402, 
the  W.  in  1403;  statues  of  Dukes  of  Brabant,  erected  in  1853, 
replace  those  mutilated  by  the  sansculottes  in  1792.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  Place  de  l'Hotel  de  Ville  are  various  ^Quild-houses, 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  last  century.  At  the  back  of  the  Hotel 
de  Ville,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rue  du  Chene  and  the  Rue  de  l'Etuve, 
is  the  curious  Manneken  fountain,  much  reveTed  by  the  populace. 
The  *Galerie  St.  Hubert,  an  arcade  near  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  is  a 
handsome  structure ,  702  ft.  long,  59  ft.  high ,  and  78  ft.  broad, 
containing  some  of  the  most  tempting  shops  in  the  city.    The  Place 


f  For  a  fuller  description  of  Belgian  towns,  aed  Baedeker's  Belgium 
and  Holland. 

Baedeker's  Bhine.    8th  Edit.  1 


2     Route  1.  LOUVAIN.  From  Brussels 

Royale  is  adorned  with  the  equestrian  *Statue  of  Godfrey  de  Bouil- 
lon, in  bronze,  executed  by  Simonis  in  1848.  The  adjoining  *Park 
is  the  favourite  promenade  of  the  citizens.  On  the  S.  side  rises  the 
Boyal  Palace,  on  the  N.  side  the  Palais  de  la  Nation. 

Not  far  from  the  latter,  beyond  the  Rue  Royale,  is  the  * Cathedral 
(Ste.  Oudule  et  St.  Michel),  the  finest  church  in  Brussels,  with  two 
truncated  Gothic  towers.  It  was  erected  in  the  13th -14th  cent., 
but  the  choir  and  the  unfinished  W.  towers  are  of  the  15th,  the 
large  (N.)  chapel  of  the  Sacrament  of  the  16th,  the  (S.)  chapel  of 
Notre  Dame  de  Delivrance  of  the  17th  cent.,  and  the  whole  was 
restored  in  1848-56.  The  chapel  of  Notre  Dame  contains  a  *Mon- 
ument  in  marble  to  Count  F.  de  Merode,  who  fell  in  a  skirmish  with 
the  Dutch  in  1830,  executed  by  Geefs. 

MSchaerbeck,  the  first  railway-station,  the  Malines  line  diverges 
to  the  left.   Then  several  small  stations. 

18  M:  Louvain,  Flem.  Leuven  or  Loven  (Hotel  de  Suede;  *Du 
Nord;  Du  Nouveau  Monde),  pop.  35,000.  The  traveller  who  stops 
here  should  not  fail  to  visit  the  **H6tel  de  VUle,  a  magnificent  edi- 
fice in  the  later  Gothic  style ,  erected  1448-63 ,  and  the  Gothic 
* Church  of  St.  Peter,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  remarkable  for 
symmetry  of  proportion.  The  choir-stalls  in  the  Church  of  St.  Ger- 
trude also  merit  inspection. 

29  M.  Tirlemont,  or  Thienen  (Nouveau  Monde;  Hotel  de  Flandrc  ; 
Cerf;  Bail.  Bestaurant),  occupies  an  extensive  area,  nearly  6  M.  in 
circumference,  but  is  thinly  peopled  (13,700  inhab.).  The  Church 
of  St.  Germain  probably  dates  from  the  12th  century. 

The  train  next  traverses  a  lofty  embankment ,  affording  an  ex- 
tensive view.  In  clear  weather  the  Lion  and  the  Prussian  monu- 
ment at  Waterloo  may  be  distinguished  in  the  distance  to  the  right. 

Between  Esemael  and  Landen  the  line  intersects  the  plain  of 
Netrwinden,  the  scene  of  two  great  battles.  In  the  first  the  allies 
under  William  III.  of  England  were  defeated  in  the  Spanish  War 
of  Succession  by  the  French  under  Marshal  Luxembourg,  29th  July, 
1693 ;  in  the  second  the  French  under  Dumouriez  and  Louis  Phi- 
lippe ('Egalite*')  were  defeated  by  the  Austrians  under  the  Duke  of 
Coburg,  18th  March,  1793. 

38  M.  Landen  was  the  birthplace  of  Pepin  of  Landen,  ancestor  of 
Pepin  the  Little  and  Charlemagne,  and  'major-domo' of  Clothaire  II. 
He  died  here  in  640,  and  was  interred  on  the  hill. which  bears  his 
name.   With  him  began  the  ascendancy  of  the  Carlovingian  line. 

Beyond  (46  M.)  Waremme,  the  line  intersects  the  well-preserved 
Soman  Road,  or  'Boad  of  Brunhilde' ,  from  Bavay  (Bavacum  Ner- 
viorum)  near  Mons,  to  Tongres,  9  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Waremme.  The 
Hesbaye,  a  district  of  which  Waremme  was  formerly  the  capital, 
was  noted  for  the  strength  and  bravery  of  its  inhabitants ,  as  the 
old  proverb  testifies:  'Qui  passe  dans  le  Hesbain  est  combattu 
Vendemain\ 


to  Cologne.  LlfeGE.  J.  Route.     3 

The  undulating,  agricultural  district  of  Brabant,  with  its  phleg- 
matic Germanic  inhabitants,  is  quitted  near  (58  M.)  Ans  (490  ft. 
higher  than  Liege)  for  a  mining  tract  with  a  Walloon  population  of 
Celtic  origin,  remarkable  for  aotivity  and  vivacity  of  disposition. 

As  the  train  descends  the  rapid  (1 :  30)  incline  to  Liege ,  a  fine 
view  of  the  city  and  the  valley  of  the  Mouse  is  obtained. 

61  M.  Liege,  Flem.  Ltiifc,  Ger.  Luttich  (*H6tel de  Suede;  *H6tel 
<f  Angleterre,  etc.),  is  a  town  containing  122,000  inhabitants.  A 
short  stay  here  should  be  devoted  to  the  Palais  de  Justice,  the 
Church  of  St.  Jacques ,  the  Cathedral  (St.  Paul)y  and,  for  the  sake 
of  the  view,  the  Citadel. 

Beyond  Liege  the  Meuse  is  crossed  by  the  handsome  Pont  du 
Val  Benott.  Numerous  lofty  chimneys  afford  indication  of  the  pros- 
perity of  the  district.  The  extensive  zinc  -  foundry  of  the  VieilU- 
Montagne  company  is  next  passed,  and  the  Ourthe  crossed.  Chlnie, 
the  first  station  beyond  Liege,  is  another  manufacturing  town. 

66  M.  Chaudfontaine  (+Qrand  Hotel  des  Bains)  is  a  small,  but 
picturesquely  situated  watering-place,  with  a  thermal  spring  (104° 
Fahr.),  rising  on  an  island  in  the  Vesdre. 

Before  the  next  tunnel  is  entered,  the  picturesque  castle  of 
La  Boehette  is  seen  on  an  eminence  to  the  left.  Near  he  Trooz  the 
ancient  castle  of  that  name  is  perched  on  the  rooks  to  the  right  of 
the  line.  For  upwards  of  a  century  a  manufactory  of  gun-barrels 
has  been  established  in  the  building.  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is 
the  castle  of  Fraipont. 

Between  (704/2  M.)  Nessonvaux  and  (737a  M.)  Pepinster,  to  the 
right  of  the  line,  stands  the  Chdteau  de  Mature  (masure  =  ruined 
house),  erected  by  a  wealthy  manufacturer  of  Verviers,  and  said  to 
occupy  the  site  of  a  hunting-seat  of  King  Pepin.  At  Pepinster 
('Pepin's  terre')  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Spa,  the  well-known 
watering-place,  74/2  M.  distant.  The  next  stat.  Ensival,  to  the 
left  of  the  line,  is  almost  contiguous  to  Verviers. 

76*/2  M.  Verviers  (H6tels  du  Chemin  de  Fer  and  d'AUcmagnc, 
both  at  the  station;  Bail.  Restaurant,  dear),  with  40,300  inhab., 
the  junction  for  Bleyberg  (see  p.  1),  is  a  busy  commercial  town  of 
recent  origin.  Here  and  in  the  environs  about  400,000  pieces  of 
cloth,  worth  3,400,0002.,  are  manufactured  annually. 

On  an  eminence  (*View)  near  stat.  Dolhain,  a  modern  town, 
picturesquely  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Vesdre,  stands  the  an- 
cient fortress  of  Limburg ,  almost  the  sole  remnant  of  the  once 
flourishing  capital  of  the  duchy  of  that  name,  destroyed  by  Louis  XIV. 
in  1675.  The  castle  was  the  family  seat  of  the  powerful  ducal  fa- 
mily of  Limburg,  to  which  the  emperors  Henry  VII. ,  Charles  IV., 
Wenceslaus,  and  Sigismund  of  Germany  belonged.  Pedestrians 
will  be  repaid  by  a  walk  (about  25  M.)  from  Dolhain  by  Verviers 
to  Liege. 

85y2  M.  Herbesthal,  the  first  Prussian  village,  is  the  frontier 

1* 


4     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.         From  Brussels 

station.  The  custom-house,  formalities  cause  a  detention  of  about 
10  min.  here.  Beyond  gtat.  Astenet ,  Lontzen  and  the  castle  of 
WeUcenhauaen  lie  to  the  left.  The  train  crosses  the  valley  of  the 
Gobi  by  a  handsome  viaduct ,  128  ft.  in  height.  To  the  left  lies 
Hergenrad,  and  in  the  distance  beyond,  the  Eineburg  or  Emma- 
burg,  situated  on  the  slope  of  wooded  mountains  (p.  10). 

The  train  next  passes  through  two  tunnels  (191  yds.  and  833  yds. 
respectively),  and  finally  descends  to  the  Rhenish  Station  at  — • 

95  M.  Aix-la-Chapelle.  —  Railway  Stations.  1.  Rhenish  Station  (PI. 
C ,  5),  for  Cologne,  Verviers,  and  Liege.  2.  Templerbend  Station  (PI.  A,  3), 
the  main  station  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  Railway  for  Gladbach,  Neuss, 
Diisseldorf,  Bleyberg,  Verviers,  Liege,  etc.  3.  Marsehierthor  Station  (PL 
B,  5, 6),  a  second  station  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  Railway.  These  three 
are  all  used  by  the  trains  of  the  Belgian  Qrand-Central  line  (for  Mastricht, 
Antwerp,  etc.)'  4.  Station  of  the  'Aachener  Industriebahn\  at  the  Koln- 
thor  (PI.  D,  3). 

Hotels.  "Grand  Monakquk  (PL  a;  C,3),  Biichel  49-51;  *  Hotel  Nuel- 
lens  (PL  b ;  C,  4).  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  5,  6,  opposite  the  Elisenbrun- 
nen  ;  both  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  and  of  the  highest  class.  *H6tel 
Bellevce  (PL  c;  C,  3,  4),  Holzgraben  3;  "Hotel  db  l'Empbbecb  (PL  1; 
B.  G,  4),  Edel-Str.  6 ;  'Hotel  Henbion  (PL  f ;  C,  3),  Comphausbad-Str.  13, 
adjoining  the  Curhaus;  *H6tel  Hoyer,  or  Imperial  Crown  (PL  e;  C,  3), 
Alexander-Str.  34-36;  Dbaoon  d'Ob  (PL  d;  C,  3),  Comphausbad-Str.  9; 
Hotel  zum  Elephanten  (PI.  k  ;  B,  C,  4),  Ursuliner-Str.  11 ;  Konig  von 
Spanien  (PL  h;  B,  4),  Kleinmarschier-Str.  52,  commercial;  Eheini&cheb 
Hof,  Adalbert-Str.  22;  Kablshaus,  Gapuzinergraben.  All  these  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  town.  —  Near  the  Rhenish  Station :  *Hoyeb,8  Union  H6tel, 
Bahnhofs-Platz  1 ;  ""Hotel  du  Nobd,  Romer-Str. ;  Kaisekhof,  at  the  corner 
of  the  Hof-Str.  and  the  Wall-Str.,  with  a  large  restaurant  and  concert- 
room;  Hotel  Stadt  Duben,  Bahnhofs-Platz  I;  Brooking,  Wall-Str.  1; 
sthe  last  two  unpretending.  —  Near  the  Templerbend  8tation:  Klocbebt, 
'Templergraben  06,  with  restaurant. 

Bath  Establishments  (also  hotels,  and  open  throughout  the  whole 
year;  no  table  d'hdte).  *Kaiserbad  (PI.  26;  C,  3,4),  Biichel  26-30;  Neubad 
(PL  27;  C,  3,  4),  Biichel  34;  Quirinusbad  (PL  29;  B,  4),  Hof  7;  Kbnigin  von 
Ungarn  (PL  28;  C,  4),  corner  of  the  Biichel  and  the  Edel-Str.,  a  hand- 
some new  building .  finished  in  1879.  These  four  are  the  bath-houses  of 
the  'Upper  Springs  (p.  8).  The  following  are  supplied  by  the  'Lower 
Springs':  Rosenbad  (PL  30;  C,  3),  Comphausbad-Str.  20;  Corneliiubad  (PL 
31;  C,  3),  Comphausbad-Str.  18;  Karlsbad  (PL  32;  C,3),  Comphausbad-Str. 
16,  all  three  opposite  the  Curhaus.  —  Cold  and  Warm  Baths  at  the  Swim- 
ming Baths  in  the  Kaiser  Platz,  the  water  for  which  is  supplied  by  the 
-new  aqueduct,  finished  in  1880,  and  at  the  Hangeweiher,  outside  the  Ja- 
cobsthor. 

Restaurants.  Wine.  *Giesen  (PL  m;  lim  KlUppeV},  Holsgraben  1  and 
Ursuliner-Str.  21;  Elisenbrunnen  (in  the  pavilions  and  hall);  Schevfen, 
Hartmann-Str.  7 ;  Fischenich,  Kapuzinergraben  19;  Wiener  Hofburg,  Adal- 
bert-Str. 35;  BernarUy  see  below;  Erholung,  Fried.  Wilhelms-Platz,  a  fa- 
vourite place  of  amusement ,  with  richly  decorated  rooms.  —  Oystebs  : 
Lennertz,  Kloster-Str.  23.  —  Beeb  :  *Fausten,  Wirigsbongard  43  (PL  C,  4) ; 
Bavaria,  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz ;  *Kilppers,  Harscamp-Str.  57  (PL  C,  4)  ; 
Fasshauer,  Kapuzinergraben,  opposite  the  theatre ;  Fickartz,  Vandeneschen, 
Hochstrasse ;  Kaisersaal,  Wall-Str.,  with  a  handsome  concert-room ;  Mon- 
jau,  at  the  theatre.  Several  'Bierkeller'  at  the  foot  of  the  Lousberg  (PI. 
A,  B,  1),  at  the  Frankenburg  (p.  10),  etc. 

Cafes:  at  the  Curhaus  (see  p.  8);  at  the  Elisenbrunnen  (p.  8);  at  the 
Lousberg  (see  p.  10).  —  Confectionebs  :  Wahl,  Theater-Plata  7 ;  Geulen, 
Theater-Platz  9;  Oellers,  Damengraben  7. 

Oabs.    From  6  a.m.  to  10  p.m.  (at  night  double  fares):  — 

(1)  Per  drive:  Within  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Burtscheid,  1  pers.  60,  each 


JUXUCHArtL 

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to  Cologne.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  /.  Route.     5 

additional  pers.  20  pf.  •,  luggage  under  lOlbs.  free,  trunk  90  pf.  —  To  the 
Belvedere  Inn  on  the  L<nubergt  1-2  pers.  1  m.  60  pf. ;  3-4  pers.  2  m.;  to 
the  top  of  the  hill  2  m.,  and  2  m.  50  pf. 

(2)  By  time:  Each  »/»  hr.  1-2  pers.  1  m.  30  pf.,  34  pers.  1  m.  00  pf. 

Tramways  traverse  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  Burtscheid,  in  various  direc- 
tions \  comp.  the  Plan. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  22;  B,  4),  Jacob- Sir.  23.  Also  at  the 
Rhenish  Station,  in  the  Wall-Str.,  etc. 

Theatres.  Stadt-Theater  (PI.  20),  operas,  dramas,  comedies,  etc. ;  Tha- 
lia-Theater, Franz-Str.  47,  operettas,  comedies,  vaudevilles;  Bernard"1  Bai- 
ton-Theater,  with  a  large  concert-room,  garden,  and  restaurant. 

Music.  During  the  season  (1st  May  to  1st  Oct.),  7-8  and  12-1,  in  the 
garden  by  the  Elisenbrunnen,  and  3  to  4.30  p.m.  at  the  Curhaus;  on  Sun- 
days, 12-1,  by  the  theatre. 

Picture  Gallery  of  M.  Jacobi,  Theater-Plats  17. 

English  Church  in  the  Anna-Strasse ;  services  at  11.45  s.m.  and  7  p.m. 
Chaplain,  Rev.  Charles  de  Cog t logon,  Hochstrasse  09. 

Aix-la-Chapelle,  German  Aachen,  a  very  ancient  town  with 
85,432  inhab.,  the  Aquisgranum  of  the  Romans,  lies  in  a  fertile 
basin  surrounded  by  gently  sloping  hills.  It  was  a  favourite  resi- 
dence of  Charlemagne,  who  died  here  in  814.  That  monarch  elevated 
the  town  to  the  rank  of  the  second  city  in  his  empire,  and  the  capital 
of  his  dominions  N.  of  the  Alps.  From  his  death  down  to  the 
accession  of  Ferdinand  I.  (1531)  Aix  witnessed  the  coronation 
of  all  the  German  emperors  (37),  and  was  called  par  excellence  the 
free  city  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire  and  seat  of  royalty  ('urb* 
Aquensis,  urbs  rcgalis,  rcgni  sedes  principalis,  prima  regum  curia1). 
The  insignia  of  empire  were  preserved  here  till  1793,  when  they 
were  transferred  to  the  Imperial  treasury  at  Vienna.  Aix-la-Chapelle 
has  frequently  been  the  scene  of  Imperial  diets,  ecclesiastical  con- 
vocations, and  congresses.  In  1668  the  peace  between  Louis  XIV. 
and  Spain  was  concluded  here,  by  which  the  French  king  abandoned 
his  pretensions  to  the  Netherlands;  the  second  Peace  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle,  of  1748,  terminated  the  Austrian  War  of  Succession ;  and 
by  the  treaty  of  1818  the  German  armies  were  recalled  from  France. 

Externally  this  venerable  imperial  city  has  retained  few  remi- 
niscences of  her  ancient  history.  The  cathedral ,  corn  -  exchange, 
Rathhaus,  and  a  few  gates  are  now  the  only  old  buildings.  Aix  has 
become  an  entirely  modern  town ,  with  broad ,  handsome  streets, 
considerable  manufactories  (of  cloth,  needles,  and  machinery) ,  and 
attractive  shops. 

The  Market,  adorned  with  a  Fountain  and  a  poor  statue  of 
Charlemagne  erected  in  1620,  forms  the  centre  of  the  city.  Here  is 
situated  the  *Rathhaus  (PI.  18 ;  B,  3),  a  plain  Gothic  edifice,  begun 
in  1358  by  the  burgomaster  Bitter  Gerhard  Chorus ,  the  builder  of 
the  cathedral  choir,  on  the  site,  and  partly  with  the  fragments  of  the 
ancient  Carlo vingian  palace,  and  completed  in  1376.  The  building 
has  recently  been  carefully  and  thoroughly  restored.  The  facade  is 
flanked  by  two  towers ;  the  W.,  or  *  QranusthurnC,  partly  belongs 
to  the  ancient  palace ;  the  other  is  of  the  13th  century. 

A  flight  of  steps,  erected  in  1878,  leads  from  the  market-place  to  the 
Vettibule   on   the   first  floor,   from  which  we  ascend  the  Gothic  staircase, 


6     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  From  Brussels 

added  in  1848  (view  of  the  cathedral  from  the  balcony),  to  the  Kaisersaal 
(custodian  50-76  pf. }  more  for  a  party). 

The  *Xaisersaal,  a  hall  55  yds.  long  and  20  yds.  wide,  with  vaulting 
borne  by  four  massive  buttresses,  occupies  the  whole  length  of  the  upper 
floor.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  eight  "Fbescoes,  which  rank  among 
the  finest  modern  examples  of  historical  painting;  the  first  four  are  by 
Alfred  Rethel  (born  at  Aix  1816,  d.  1859);  the  others,  designed  by  him,  were 
executed,  with  more  vigorous  colouring,  by  Kehren:  — 

1.  The  Emp,  Otho  III.  opening  the  burial-vault  of  Charlemagne; 
2,  Fall  of  the  'Irmensaule' ;  3.  Battle  with  the  Saracens  at  Cordova.; 
4.  Conquest  of  Pavia  in  774  (these  by  Rethel);  5.  Baptism  of  Wittekind  and 
Alboin  \  6.  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  in  St.  Peter's  at  Borne \  7.  Building 
of  the  Cathedral  of  Aix-la-Chapelle ;  8.  Abdication  of  Charlemagne  and 
Coronation  of  his  son  Louis  the  Pious.  Polychromic  ornamentation  of 
buttresses  and  vaulting  by  Kleinertt.  The  thirty-seven  consoles  on  the 
walls  are  destined  for  small  statues  of  the  German  emperors  who  were 
crowned  at  Aix. 

The  Council-Hall  contains  portraits  of  Napoleon,  Josephine,  the  Em- 
press Maria  Theresa,  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  portrait  of  Charlemagne, 
by  an  unknown  master,  and  others.  The  stained-glass  window,  with  a 
portrait  of  the  Emp.  William,  is  by  M.  H.  Bekmitt. 

The  *Cathedral,  or  Munster  (PI.  1),  consists  of  two  distinct  parts 
in  different  styles  of  architecture.  That  portion  erected  by  Charle- 
magne in  796-804,  and  consecrated  by  Leo  III.,  a  noble  example 
of  the  Byzantine  style,  is  an  octagon  copied  from  S.  Vitale  at 
Ravenna,  and  partly  built  by  Italian  workmen,  48  ft.  in  diameter, 
surrounded  by  a  sixteen-sided  passage,  and  terminating  in  a  cupola, 
104  ft.  high.  The  eight  gables  of  the  central  structure  are  of  the 
beginning  of  the  13th  cent.,  the  lofty,  fantastic  roof  is  of  the  17th. 
The  octagon  is  surrounded  by  several  chapels,  built  in  the  14th  and 
15th  cent.,  and  afterwards  partly  altered.  Adjoining  the  octagon 
on  the  E.  is  the  lofty  and  elegant  Gothic  Choir,  begun  by  Ritier 
Gerhard  Chorus  in  1353,  and  completed  in  1413.  A  thorough  re- 
storation of  the  whole  edifice  has  now  been  some  years  in  progress. 

On  the  right  and  left  of  the  principal  entrance,  borne  by  modern 
pillars,  are  a  brazen  Wolf,  probably  of  Roman  origin,  and  a  Pime-Conc, 
dating  from  the  10th  cent.,  both  having  doubtless  once  belonged  to  a 
fountain,  the  water  of  which  flowed  from  apertures  among  the  hair 
of  the  wolf,  and  from  holes  in  the  pine-cone.  According  to  the 
mediaeval  legend  connected  with  the  wolf,  the  funds  for  the  erection 
of  the  church  having  run  short,  the  devil  offered  to  supply  the  de- 
ficiency on  condition  that  the  first  living  being  that  entered  the 
building  should  be  sacrificed  to  him.  The  magistrates  entered  into 
the  compact,  but  defrauded  the  devil  of  his  expected  reward  by 
admitting  a  wolf  into  the  sacred  edifice  on  its  completion.  The 
Bronze  Doors  were  cast  about  804. 

The  *Intbbjor  op  the  Octagon  is  borne  by  eight  massive 
pillars,  which  separate  the  central  space  from  the  surrounding  two- 
storied  passage.  The  lofty,  round-arched  openings  of  the  upper 
story,  or  'Hochmunster',  are  enlivened  with  a  double  row  of  col- 
umns, of  unequal  length,  some  of  them  in  marble,  others  in  granite, 
brought  from  Rome,  Treves,  and  Ravenna.   The  most  valuable  were 


to  Cologne.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  /.  Route.     7 

taken  to  Paris  by  the  French  in  1794,  but  restored  in  1816;  some  of 
them  were  replaced  by  new  ones  in  1845.  The  capitals  are  all  new, 
and  unfortunately  differ  materially  in  ornament  from  the  Byzantine 
originals.  The  large  Mosaic  in  the  dome,  on  a  gold  ground,  repre- 
senting Christ  surrounded  by  the  24  Elders  of  the  Apocalypse,  was 
executed  by  Salviati  $  Co.  from  a  design  by  J.  Bithunt,  in  the 
style  of  an  old  mosaic  with  which  the  dome  was  originally  adorned. 
The  gilded  Candelabrum  was  presented  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  in 
1165.  The  inscription  'Carolo  Magno'  on  the  pavement  beneath  it 
dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  The  tomb  of  the 
illustrious  emperor  was  probably  in  a  chapel  adjoining  the  church. 
The  so-called  Ungarische  Captlle,  adjoining  the  octagon  on  the  S. 
(to  the  right  of  the  W.  entrance),  recently  restored  in  the  Gothic 
style,  contains  the  treasury  (see  below).  The  Krcuz-Capelle,  or 
Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas,  on  the  N.W.  side,  retains  its  Gothic  archi- 
tecture of  the  beginning  of  the  15th  century.  (The  egress  leads  to 
the  late-Gothic  Cloisters,  with  the  small  'Drachenloch' ,  a  relic  of 
an  interesting  late-Romanesque  edifice.) 

The  *Choib  is  remarkable  for  its  light  and  elegant  proportions. 
The  large  windows  are  filled  with  richly  coloured  *Stained  Glass, 
representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin  (Assumption  and 
Coronation  designed  by  Cornelius),  executed  partly  at  Berlin,  and 
partly  at  Cologne  and  Aix.  On  the  pillars  between  the  windows 
are  statues  of  Charlemagne,  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  the  Twelve 
Apostles,  of  1430,  recently  coloured.  The  ^Reading  Desk,  consisting 
of  an  eagle  on  a  rich  stand  of  open-work,  cast  in  copper  in  the  15th 
cent. ,  is  also  worthy  of  notice.  Behind  it  is  the  stone  which  marks 
the  Tomb  of  Otho  III.  (d.  1002).  The  Pulpit,  richly  adorned  with 
gold,  precious  stones,  and 'carved  ivory,  was  presented  by  Henry  II. 
(d.  1024).  The  sacristan  shows  the  pulpit,  the  imperial  throne, 
and  sarcophagus  (1-1  Yam.). 

The  Hochmvnbtbb,  or  gallery  of  the  octagon,  contains  the  Im- 
perial Throne,  composed  of  marble  slabs,  on  which  the  remains  of 
Charlemagne  (d.  814)  reposed  for  upwards  of  350  years,  having 
been  found  by  Emp.  Otho  III.  who  opened  the  tomb  in  the  year 
1000.  Frederick  Barbarossa  opened  the  tomb  a  second  time  in 
1165,  and  transferred  the  remains  to  an  antique  Sarcophagus,  while 
the  throne  was  afterwards  used  for  the  coronation  of  the  emperors. 
The  sarcophagus,  in  Parian  marble,  with  the  Rape  of  Proserpine  in 
relief,  is  also  preserved  here ;  but  the  remains  of  the  emperor,  who 
had  been  canonised  in  1164,  were  placed  by  Frederick  II.  in  a  reli- 
quary composed  of  gold  and  silver '(see  below)  about  1215.  The 
^Balustrade  between  the  columns  was  cast  about  the  year  804,  and 
is  perhaps  of  Italian  workmanship.  —  The  Carls- Capelle,  which 
adjoins  the  Hochmunster  on  the  N.,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  cent.,  has  been  recently  restored,  and  handsomely  decorated 
with  polychrome  ornamentation  and  coats-of-arms  by  Kleinertz. 


8     Route  1.  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.  From  Brussels 

The  rich  ^Cathedral  Treasury  (shown  daily,  except  Sundays  and  festi- 
vals, from  10  to  12  and  from  1  to  6  o'clock  $  ticket  for  1-3  persons  3  m.. 
for  each  additional  person  1  m. ;  a  single  traveller  will  frequently  find 
opportunities  of  joining  a  party)  is  contained  in  the  above-mentioned 
Ungarische  Gapelle  (Keeper,  Herr  Lennartz,  Domhof  1).  The  chief  objects 
of  interest  are  the  sumptuous  late-Romanesque  Shrine  of  the  Four  Great 
Relics,  executed  in  the  year  1220  (containing  the  'robe  of  the  Virgin, 
the  swaddling-clothes  of  the  infant  Christ,  the  bloody  cloth  in  which  the 
body  of  John  the  Baptist  was  wrapped,  and  the  linen  cloth  with  which 
the  Saviour  was  girded  on  the  Cross",  which  are  shown  to  the  public 
gratis  once  only  every  seven  years);  Reliquary  of  Charlemagne,  likewise 
a  magnificent  late-Romanesque  work*,  the  Bust  of  Charlemagne,  in  gold 
and  enamel,  14th  cent.  *,  the  Cross  of  Lothaire,  presented  by  that  monarch 
(d.  1137);  several  admirably  executed  Gothic  Reliquaries;  sixteen  Reliefs 
in  gold,  with  scenes  from  the  Passion,  etc.,  in  the  Romanesque  style*, 
the  Hunting-horn  of  Charlemagne,  of  oriental  ivory-work;  numerous 
mediesval  vessels,  in  gold  and  silver,  candelabra,  and  other  curiosities. 
These  objects  are  preserved  in  large  glass  cabinets,  closed  by  winged 
doors,  on  the  insides  of  which  are  paintings  of  the  early  Flemish  school, 
attributed  to  Hugo  van  der  Goes,  a  pupil  of  the  Van  Eycks  (15th  cent.). 

In  the  Fischmarkt,  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  cathedral,  is  the 
dilapidated  KornhauB  (PL  15 ;  B,  4),  or  Qrashaus,  perhaps  the  old 
Town  Hall,  completed  in  1267,  and  embellished  with  statues  of  the 
seven  Electors  (?). 

The  celebrated  warm  Sulphub  Springs  of  Aix,  which  weTe 
known  to  the  Romans,  rise  in  Aix  itself  and  the  neighbouring  town 
of  Burtscheid  from  the  limestone-rock,  and  there  are  also  several 
chalybeate  springs  which  have  their  source  in  the  clay-slate.  Of 
the  former  the  chief  is  the  Kaiserquelle  (131°  Fahr.),  which  rises 
on  the  4Bucher,  on  the  slope  of  the  market-hill  (PI.  B,  3),  and 
supplies  the  Kaiserbad,  Neubad,  * Queen  of  Hungary',  and  Elisen- 
brunnen.  The  QuirinusqueUe  (125°)  rises  in  the  bath-house  of  that 
name  in  the  neighbouring  'Hof .  These  two  springs  are  called 
the  'Obere  Quellen'.  The  'Untere  Quellen',  as  the  Rosenquellc 
(116®)  and  ComeliusqutlU  (113°)  are  called,  rise  in  the  Comp- 
hausbad-Strasse,  a  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  others.  The  remains  of 
extensive  Roman  baths  have  lately  been  discovered  under  the  Kai- 
serbad and  Neubad ;  part  of  them  is  visible  in  the  cellar  of  the 
latter.  The  baths  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  are  annually  visited  hy  about 
8000  patients,  besides  passing  travellers. 

The  Elisenbrunnen  (PI.  14;  C,  4),  as  the  drinking  spring  is 
named  after  the  consort  of  Fred.  William  IV.,  is  in  the  Friedrich- 
Wilhelms-Platz.  The  Doric  colonnade  connected  with  it,  90  yds. 
long,  was  designed  hy  Schinkel  and  erected  in  1822-24.  Two  nights 
of  steps  descend  to  the  'Trinkhalle',  above  which  is  placed  a  bust 
of  the  queen  by  Tieck*  At  the  back  of  the  colonnade  is  the  Elisen- 
garten,  where  a  new  Trinkhalle  was  erected  in  1873,  and  where 
a  band  plays  from  7  to  8  a.m.  during  the  season. 

From  the  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  several  streets  flanked  with 
handsome  shops  lead  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Comphausbad-Strasse, 
in  which,  opposite  to  the  bath-houses,  is  situated  the  Curhaus 
(PI.  16;  C,  3),  built  in  1782,  which  forms  the  chief  centre  of  at- 


to  Cologne.  AEL-LA-CHAPELLE.  1.  Route.     9 

traction  to  visitors ,  and  contains  a  large  ball  and  concert-room, 
beautifully  fitted  up  in  the  Renaissance  style,  a  restaurant,  and  a 
reading-room  (open  till  10  p.m. ;  admission  for  non-subscribers 
50  pf. ;  closed  at  the  end  of  the  season).  The  Art- Industrial  Col- 
lection of  the  Museum-Verein  is  also  in  the  Curbaus.  Adjoining 
the  Curhaus,  but  facing  the  Curgarten,  is  the  Gursaal,  in  the 
Moorish  style,  completed  in  1863  from  Wickop's  design.  Music  in 
the  Curgarten  3-4.30  daily. 

On  the  S.E.  side  of  the  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Platz  lies  the 
Theater-Platz,  in  vrhich  rises  the  Theatre  (PI.  20),  erected  from  a 
plan  by  Gremer  in  1822-24.  Opposite  are  the  Government  Build- 
ings (PI.  19). 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  handsome  Gothic  Marienkirehe  (PI.  6; 

C,  5),  in  brick,  erected  by  Statz,  an  architect  of  Cologne,  in  1859. 
The  tower  is  surmounted  by  a  gilded  figure  of  the  Virgin. 

The  open  space  in  front  of  the  Rhenish  Station  (PI.  C,  5)  is 
embellished  with  the  "Warriors'  Monument,  erected  by  subscription 
in  1872  to  the  memory  of  natives  of  Aix  and  the  neighbourhood 
who  fell  in  the  campaigns  of  1866  and  1870-71.  The  dying  warrior, 
to  whom  an  angel  presents  the  palm  of  victory,  executed  in  bronze, 
was  designed  by  Drake. 

At  the  opposite  end  of  the  town,  in  the  spacious  Platz  at  the 
Templerbend,  near  the  Aachen  and  Mastricht  Station,  is  situated 
the  Rhenish- Westphalian  'Polytechnic  School  (PI.  17;  A,  B,  3), 
erected  by  Cremer  in  1865-70,  and  now  attended  by  400  students. 
The  handsome  staircase  and  hall  should  be  inspected.  —  Adjacent 
is  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  a  fine  Renaissance  edifice  built  by 
Ewerbeck  and  Intze  in  1877-79,  with  accommodation  for  about  120 
students. 

The  other  churches  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  contain  little  to  detain 
the  traveller.  The  Augustinian  Church  (PI.  2;  B,  3)  contains  a  paint- 
ing by  Diepenbeck ,  a  pupil  of  Rubens ,  the  Parish  phurch  of  St. 
Michael  (PI.  3 ;  B,  4)  a  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Honthorst ,  and 
the  Church  of  St.  Leonhard  (PI.  4;  B,  C,  5)  a  Nativity  by  De 
Crayer.  —  In  the  Promenaden-Str.  is  the  New  Synagogue  (PI.  21 ; 

D,  3),  in  the  Moorish  style ,  designed  by  Wickop.  A  new  church, 
designed  by  "Wiethase,  has  been  built  in  the  Jacob-Str. 

*  The  mediaeval  fortifications  of  the  town  have  been  almost  en- 
tirely converted  into  promenades,  but  the  Marschier-  Thor  (PI.  C,  5) 
and  the  Ponl-Thor  (PI.  A,  2)  of  the  14th  cent.,  and  a  few  other 
relics  of  them  are  still  extant.  —  Between  the  Cologne  and  Sandkaul 
Gates  rises  the  imposing  Mariahilf  Hospital  (PI.  D  2),  built  in  1850, 
with  pleasant  grounds,  always  open  to  the  public.  In  the  Kaiser- 
Platz,  by  the  Adalberts-Thor  (PI.  D,  4),  rises  the  Kaiserbrunncny 
a  tasteful  fountain  purchased  at  the  Paris  Exhibition  of  1878  and 
eTected  here  in  commemoration  of  the  'Golden  Wedding'  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Germany  in  1879.  —  The  adjacent  Steff ens- Platz  is  also 


10     Route  1.  BURTSCHEID.  From  Brussels 

embellished  with  a  pretty  fountain.  — Outside  the  Adalberts-Thor, 
to  the  right,  is  a  kind  of  marble  temple,  erected  in  1844  to  com- 
memorate the  Congress  of  Aix  in  1818.  Adjoining  it  is  the  turret- 
ed  Gothic  Prison,  by  Cremer.  —  Opposite  lies  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cemetery,  containing  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  French 
and  German  soldiers  who  died  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  in  1870-71 . 

The  *Louiberg  (859  ft.),  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  N.  of  the 
town  (PI.  A,  B,  1;  cab,  see  p.  4),  and  rising  200  ft.  above  it, 
ascended  in  40  min.  from  the  Marschier-Thor,  or  in  */4  nr«  from 
the  Pont-Thor,  is  laid  out  in  grounds  and  shady  walks.  The  sum- 
mit ,  on  which  rises  an  Obelisk  (a  large  cafe*  near  it) ,  commands  a 
fine  survey  of  the  busy  town  and  the  wooded,  undulating  environs  ; 
to  the  E.  lies  the  rich ,  grassy  Soersthal ,  with  numerous  country- 
residences  and  coal-mines.  The  white  Wallfahrtskirche,  or  pilgrims' 
church ,  on  the  adjacent  Salvatorberg,  is  a  conspicuous  object. 

Adjacent  to  Aix  on  the  S.E.  side,  and  connected  with  it  by 
promenades  and  new  buildings ,  lies  the  town  of  Burtseheid ,  or 
Borcette  (Carlsbad;  Rosenbad;  Schwertbad ;  Johannisbad) ,  with 
10,000  inhab.,  which  also  contains  important  baths  and  manufac- 
tories. On  an  eminence  in  the  centre  of  the  town  rises  the  church 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  which  formerly  belonged  to  a  Benedictine 
Abbey  founded  by  Emp.  Henry  II.  in  1018,  but  has  been  remod- 
elled in  the  degraded  taste  of  last  century.  The  principal  springs 
are  the  Victoriabrunnen  (140°  Fahr.),  the  Kochbrunnen  (158°),  and 
a  drinking  spring  (162°),  which  together  yield  such  abundance  of 
hot  water  as  to  form  a  Warm  Brook,  adjoining  which  and  separated 
from  it  by  a  footpath,  is  the  Cold  Brook.  —  To  the  N.E.  of  Burt- 
seheid is  the  long  viaduct  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  (see  below). 

The  Frankenburg,  1  M.  E.  of  the  Rhenish  Station,  was  once  a  hunt- 
ing-Beat of  Charlemagne.  There  are  now  no  remains  of  the  original  build- 
ing, the  principal  part,  lately  restored,  dating  from  1642.  The  pond 
surrounding  the  castle  was  once  &  large  lake,  in  which,  according  to  tra- 
dition, was  sunk  the  magic  ring  of  Faslrada  (p.  141),  the  third  wife  of  Char- 
lemagne. Attracted  to  this  spot  by  its  influence,  the  monarch  is  said 
to  have  sat  here  for  days,  gazing  on  the  lake,  and  mourning  for  his  lost 
consort.  The  ground  round  the  castle  has  been  laid  out  as  a  park.  — 
(As  far  as  the  Gillesbach ,  near  the  Frankenburg ,  ordinary  cab-fare  is 
charged.) 

About  8/<  M.  farther  in  the  same  direction  is  Trimborn,  a  grove  where 
a  Roman  legion-stone  and  a  gigantic  sarcophagus  were  discovered.  The 
artificial  ruin  at  the  entrance  is  constructed  of  the  fragments  of  a  chapel 
of  the  time  of  Charlemagne.    Carriage  2y«-3  m- 

The  promenades  of  the  Oarlahohe,  ll/»  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Aix,  *U  M. 
from  Ronheide  (station  on  the  line  to  Verviers  and  Liege),  afford  the  finest 
view  of  the  town.    Carriage  3-4  m. 

About  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  on  the  hill-side,  stands 
the  ancient  Bmmaburg,  a  castle  from  which  Eginhard,  the  private 
secretary  of  Charlemagne,  is  said  to  have  abducted  the  princess  Emma. 
It  may  be  reached  either  from  Astenet,  the  second  railway-station  towards 
Liege  (p.  4),  not  far  from  the  great  Odhl  Viaduct,  or  from  Bleyberg  (see 
p.  1).  The  neighbouring  cadmium-mines  and  zinc-foundries  of  the  Vieille 
Montague  Company  are  in  the  parish  of  Aforesnet,  which  is  neutral  ground 
belonging  to  Prussia  and  Belgium  in  common. 


to  Cologne.  ESCHWEILER.  1.  Boute.     It 

Cornalrmflnrter ,  with  the  handsome  late-Gothic  buildings  of  the  sup- 
pressed Abbey  (now  a  Roman  Catholic  teachers'  seminary),  situated  6  a. 
to  the  S.E.  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  in  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Inde ,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Hohe-Venn,  on  the  Treves  road,  is  a  favourite  point  for 
excursions. 

Railway  to  Cologne  (44  M.,  in  l1/^  hrs. ;  fares  6,  41/*, 
3  m. ;  express  train,  7^2  m.).  Few  lines  exhibit  such  varied  forms 
of  railway  engineering  as  that  between  the  Belgian  frontier  and  Co- 
logne. On  leaving  the  station  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  the  train  crosses 
a  Viaduct  308  yds.  in  length,  and  passes  the  Frankenburg  (to  the 
left,  see  above) ;  it  then  passes  through  the  Nirmer  Tunnel  (72  M.), 
traverses  the  Rekhsbusch  wood,  and  stops  at  the  station  for  (101  M.) 
Stolberg  (Hissel;  Welter)  ,  a  prosperous  town  with  10,000  inhab., 
situated  iy2  M.  from  the  main  line  (diligence  12  times  a  day). 
Stolberg  is  the  centre  of  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing 
districts  in  Germany,  the  numerous  products  of  which  are  sent  to 
every  part  of  the  world.  For  the  foundation  of  its  prosperity  it 
was  indebted  to  French  Protestant  refugees,  who  established 
brass-foundries  here  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  drove  a  thriving  trade. 
The  old  chateau  is  supposed  to  have  onoe  been  a  hunting  seat  of 
Charlemagne. 

The  principal  products  of  the  district  are  zinc,  lead,  and  silver  \  there 
are  also  manufactories  of  pins,  needles,  mirrors,  glass,  chemicals,  etc., 
the  fuel  consumed  by  which  is  yielded  in  abundance  by  the  coal-mines 
of  the  Eschweiler  Pumpe  (near  the  railway)  and  others  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. There  is  probably  no  other  locality  in  Germany  where  so  many 
branches  of  industry  are  so  successfully  prosecuted  within  so  small  a  space. 

Branch-line  from  Stolberg  to  (8  M.)  Altdorf  in  1  hr.  10  min.  —  Another 
branch-line  runs  from  Stolberg  by  Eschweiler  Au  and  Eschweilek  (see 
below)  to  Julich  (see  p.  12),  whence,  united  with  the  Duren-Jiilich  rail- 
way, it  goes  on  to  Ameleny  Hoch-Ifeukirch,  Odenkirchen,  Rhbtdt  (see  p.  48), 
and  QimAt>bacu  (see  p.  48).  —  A  third  line,  the  'Aachener  Industrie-Bahn', 
runs  by  Weiden,  WUrselen  (whence  there  is  a  connecting  line  to  Aix-la- 
Chapelle),  and  Grevenberg  to  (5  M.)  Morsbach. 

The  train  now  traverses  a  most  picturesque  district,  with  nu- 
merous coal-mines  and  foundries.  Near  Eschweiler  it  crosses  the 
Inde,  and  passes  through  a  tunnel. 

104  M.  Eschweiler  (*Driefer)y  a  busy  and  rapidly  growing  town 
of  about  15,000  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  valley,  with  a 
castellated  hospital.  —  The  forges,  foundries,  puddling-works,  and 
factories  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Eschweiler  employ 
3000  workmen. 

Farther  on,  to  the  left,  near  Nothberg,  rises  the  Rbttgtr  Schloss, 
an  ancient  castle  with  four  towers,  now  the  property  of  Herr  von 
Burtscheid.  Among  the  hills  to  the  right  are  several  villages,  in- 
cluding Werth,  the  supposed  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Imperial 
general  John  of  Werth  (d.  1651),  and  Qreaenieh,  the  ancient  royal 
residence  of  6ra88iniaeum,  near  which  are  extensive  mines  of  cad- 
mium, .iron,  and  lead-ore,  once  worked  by  the  Romans,  as  proved 
by  Roman  coins  found  in  them. 


12     Route  1.  DUREN. 

109  M.  Langerwehe  (Schtttzenhof),  a  village  with  2000  inhab., 
near  which  is  a  large  needle-manufactory. 

The  route  from  Langerwehe  to  the  Roerthal  is  pi  e  as  ante  r  than  that 
from  Diiren  (see  below).  Passing  the  needle-factory  and  the  grounds  of 
Herr  Schleicher  we  reach  (2  M.)  Seh&nthal  (Schonthaler  Hof),  which  is 
much  frequented  in  summer,  and  (3/<  M.)  Wenau  (Huppertz),  with  an  old 
abbey-church.  The  way  then  leads  through  beautiful  woods  to  (6  M.) 
HUrtgen  and  (4»/a  M.)  Berg  stein  (see  below). 

The  spurs  of  the  Eifel  are  seen  on  the  right.  At  the  base  of 
the  wooded  heights  of  the  Hochwald  on  the  right  lies  the  village  of 
Merode,  l1/^  M.  from  Langerwehe,  and  3  M.  from  Diiren,  with  a 
handsome  old  turreted  chateau,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  the 
seat  of  a  wealthy  Belgian  family.    The  train  crosses  the  Boer. 

11472 M.  Duron (JBdtelMommer;  Windhauser,  moderate;  Rhein- 
ischer  Hof),  the  Marcodurum  of  Tacitus ,  a  busy  town  of  17,000 
inhab.,  with  manufactories  of  cloth,  paper,  iron,  etc.,  is  situated 
on  the  Roer  (jpron.  Roof)  in  a  fertile  plain.  The  most  conspicuous 
object  in  the  town  is  the  lofty  tower  of  the  church  of  St.  Anna.  To 
the  right  of  the  station  are  the  buildings  of  the  Lunatic  and  Blind 
Asylums  for  the  district,  erected  by  subscription  in  1842.  The 
Rathhaus  contains  a  good  Collection  of  Antiquities. 

The  Valley  of  the  Boer  presents  some  very  picturesque  points  above 
Kreuzau,  a  village  8  M.  to  the  S.  of  Diiren,  on  the  road  to  Nideggen  (9y«  M.  ; 
diligence  daily).  Pedestrians  diverge  here  to  the  right  from  the  road  and 
ascend  the  valley,  which  gradually  contracts  and  is  bounded  by  lofty  sand- 
stone rocks,  to  0/4  hr.)  Winden,  0/2  br.)  Unter-Maulach,  (i/4  hr.)  Ober-Afau- 
baeh.  We  then  descend  to  the  left  by  the  chapel,  pass  the  first  side-valley, 
and  ascend,  opposite  the  Mausaul  rocks,  to  the  village  of  Bergstein,  which 
has  long  been  visible  (*Jansen,  unpretending).  Before  reaching  the  wooded 
summit  of  the  Burgberg  we  have  a  fine  survey  of  the  Roerthal,  and  from 
the  top  we  obtain  a  superb  view  of  the  ruins  of  Nideggen.  We  then 
descend  the  Roerthal  to  Zeriall,  and  again  ascend  to  (V/a  hr.)  Nideggen 
{?Heiliger;  "MMler,  moderate),  situated  on  a  rock  rising  precipitously 
from  the  Boer,  and  crowned  with  the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  dat- 
ing from  1180.  which  was  once  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Counts  of 
Julich  (adm.  25  pf.).  Following  the  valley  beyond  Nideggen,  the  traveller 
next  reaches  (l/a  hr.)  Abenden,  (20  min.)  Blensy  (20  min.)  Hauun ,  and  the 
strikingly  picturesque  village  of  Heimbaeh  (Post;  Scheid)  with  the  in- 
significant ruin  of  Hengebaeh.  The  church  contains  a  carved  altar  of  the 
13th  century.  From  Heimbaeh,  Ziilpich  (p.  181)  may  be  reached  by  dili- 
gence in  2>/<  hrs.  —  The  finest  point  in  the  valley  of  the  Boer  is  Montjoie 
(Hembach),  181/*  M.  above  Nideggen,  magnificently  situated  in  a  rocky 
ravine,  and  enhanced  by  two  ruined  castles. 

Fbom  Dueen  to  Nsuss,  8072  M. ,  railway  in  l»/«  hr. ;  stations  EUdorf^ 
Bedburg,  Harff,  Orevenbroich,  Capellen-Wevelinghoven.    Ifeuss.  see  p.  45. 

From  DObbn  to  Julich  (9»/s  M.)  in  25-30  min.  (1  m.  20,  90,  70  pf.). 
Julich  or  Julie rt,  the  capital  of  the  ancient  duchy  of  that  name,  has  be- 
longed to  Prussia  since  1814.  The  fortifications  were  dismantled  in  1860. 
From  Julich  to  Gladbach,  see  p.  11. 

From  Diiren  to  Etukirchen  and  Treves,  see  B.  26. 

120  M.  Buir .  127  M.  Hortem  lies  in  the  luxuriant  vale  of  the 
Erft,  which  abounds  with  seats  of  the  Rhenish  noblesse.  To  the  left 
the  chateaux  of  Frenz  and  Hemmersbach,  or  Hotremer  Burg.  The 
valley  of  the  Erft  is  soon  quitted  by  the  Konigsdorf  tunnel,  1  M.  in 
length.    Then  — 


ROTTERDAM.  ?.  Boute.     IS 

130 1/2  M.  Konigtdorf,  to  the  right  beyond  which,  in  the  distance, 
is  the  village  ot  BrauweiUr ,  with  an  ancient  Benedictine  Abbey, 
now  a  reformatory.  The  old.  Abbey  Church,  erected  in  the  13th  cent., 
in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  contains  an  interesting  engraved 
tomb-stone  of  1483,  and  some  ancient  frescoes  on  the  vaulting  of 
the  chapter-house,  both  valuable  in  the  history  of  art. 

As  Cologne  is  approached  the  line  traverses  a  fertile  plain, 
studded  with  detached  houses  and  factories.  The  hills  to  the  right 
are  spurs  of  the  Vorgtbirgc,  a  low  range  which  begins  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Rhine  between  Cologne  and  Bonn. 

13872  M.  Cologne,  see  R.  3. 

2.  From  Rotterdam  to  Cologne. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  44. 

Railway  (1)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Emmerich,  Oberhauscn,  and 
Diisseldorf;  (2)  by  Utrecht,  Zevenaar,  Cleve.  and  Crefeld.  Express  by 
both  lines  in  6  hrs.  (fares  12  florins  70  cents ,  10  fl. ,  6  fl.  40  c).  Exami- 
nation of  luggage  at  the  Prussian  custom-house  at  Elten.  (The  Dutch  florin, 
or  guilder,  worth  U.  &*.,  is  divided  into  100  cents.) 

Steamboats  daily  (those  of  the  Ddsseldorf  Go.  correspond  three 
times  weekly  with  steamers  of  the  General  Steam  Nav.  Go.  from  London ; 
those  of  the  Netherlands  Co.  with  the  lBatavier'  once  weekly)  in  30  hrs.  •, 
fares  4  fl.  42  c,  or  3  fl. ;  100  lbs.  of  luggage  free.  Prussian  custom-house 
at  Emmerich. 

Rotterdam  f.  —  Hotels.  *Bath  Hotel,  near  the  steamboat  -  piers  •, 
'Victoria,  Willemsplein \  *Pays  Bas,  in  the  Korte  Hoogstraat,  similar 
charges.  St.  Lucas  and  ds  Hollands,  are  good  second-class  hotels  in  the 
Hoogstraat. 

Gab  per  drive  without  luggage,  1-2  pen.  60  c,  3-4  per  a.  70  0. ;  per 
hr.  1  fl.  20  c. ;  to  or  from  any  of  the  railway-stations,  with  luggage  1  fl. 
—  The  Rhenish  Railway  Station  is  not  far  from  the  London  steamboat 
piers,  and  is  opposite  that  of  the  Harwich  boat.  Omnibus  to  or  from  the 
hotels  25  c. 

English  Church,*  in  the  Haringvliet;  Presbyterian  Church,  on  the  Schot- 
sche  Dijk. 

Rotterdam,  with  152,500  inhab.,  the  second  commercial  town  in 
Holland,  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Maas,  about  14  M.  from 
the  German  Ocean.  It  is  intersected  by  numerous  canals  (grachtcn, 
or  havens),  which  give  the  town  a  very  picturesque  appearance ;  and 
numerous  drawbridges  (ophaaWruggcn)  afford  communication  be- 
tween the  various  quarters  of  the  town. 

A  huge  dyke  or  embankment  runs  through  the  centre  of  the 
town,  protecting  the  lower  quarters  (Binnenstad)  from  inundation 
during  high  tide.  The  Hoogstraat,  or  high  street,  is  built  on  this 
dyke ;  and  the  finest  part  of  the  town ,  the  Buitcnstad ,  is  situated 
between  this  street  and  the  Maas. 

About  2500  sea-going  vessels  annually  enter  and  quit  the  port, 
and  the  traffic  with  the  Upper  Rhine  by  means  of  barges ,  towed  by 


+  For  a  fuller  description  of  Dutch  towns  see  Baedeker**  Belgium  and 
Holland. 


14     Route  2.  ARNHEM.  From  Rotterdam 

powerful  tug-steamers,  is  very  considerable.  Rotterdam  also  contains 
a  number  of  manufactories  and  distilleries. 

The  traveller's  leisure  had  better  be  devoted  to  a  walk  on  the 
busy  quay  (Boompjes) ;  to  the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence 
(Qroote  Kerk) ,  a  brick  building  dating  from  1472 ,  and  containing 
the  monuments  of  Admiral  de  Witt  and  other  celebrated  Dutchmen ; 
and  to  Boymaris  Museum,  a  very  fair  collection  of  pictures,  open 
daily  except  Mondays.  Those  who  have  a  day  at  their  disposal  are 
recommended  to  spend  it  at  the  Hague  (by  railway  in  %  hr. ;  see 
Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland). 

The  district  traversed  by  the  railway  is  perfectly  flat,  lying  con- 
siderably below  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  is  excluded  by  means  of 
carefully  constructed  dykes  and  embankments.  Canals,  pasture-land, 
and  occasional  windmills  are  the  principal  features  of  the  scenery. 
The  first  station  of  importance  is  — 

12l/2  M.  Gouda,  or  Ter  Gouv>  (*De  Zalm,  In  the  market-place), 
on  the  Yssel,  with  17,400  inhab.,  the  staple  commodities  of  which 
are  bricks,  clay-pipes,  and  an  inferior  kind  of  cheese.  The  principal 
church  (Qroote  or  Jans  Kerk)  contains  some  fine  old  stained  glass. 

38  M.  Utrecht  (*Pays  Bas;  de  VEurope;  BeUevue;  *Oude 
Kasteel  van  Antwerpen ;  Hdtel  de  la  Station ,  at  the  station) ,  the 
'Oude  Trecht'  or  old  ford,  the  Trajeetum  ad  Rhenum  of  the 
Romans,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  Holland  (popul. 
70,000).  It  belonged  at  one  time  to  Lorraine ,  then  to  the  German 
Empire ,  and  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  emperors.  Here 
in  1579  the  union  of  the  seven  provinces  Holland,  Zeeland,  Utrecht, 
Guelders ,  Over-Yssel ,  Friesland ,  and  Groningen  was  effected,  and 
William  I.  of  Orange  was  created  stadtholder.  In  1672  Louis  XIV. 
took  possession  of  the  town  and  levied  an  enormous  contribution. 
The  well-known  Peace  of  Utrecht ,  which  terminated  the  Spanish 
War  of  Succession,  was  concluded  here  in  1713.  —  The  Rhine 
is  divided  here  into  two  arms,  the  Old  Rhine ,  which  falls  into  the 
German  Ocean  near  Katwyk ,  and  the  Vecht ,  which  falls  into  the 
Zuider  Zee. 

Utrecht  was  celebrated  at  a  very  early  period  for  its  fine 
churches ,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  the  *Cathedral,  founded 
in  720,  and  dating  in  its  present  form  from  1254-67.  The  Uni- 
versity, founded  in  1636,  is  attended  by  upwards  of  500  students. 

Beyond  Utrecht  the  line  crosses  the  canal  (Rynvaart)  which 
unites  the  town  with  the  Lek.  Pleasant  retrospect  of  Utrecht.  To 
the  right  and  left  are  four  intrenohments  (lunettes) ,  now  disused. 
The  country  is  fertile  and  well-cultivated.  At  (45  M.)  Zeist  (near 
which  is  Driebergen)  there  is  a  Moravian  colony ;  then  stations  Maars- 
bergen,  and  Veenendaal,  with  numerous  apiaries.  The  line  intersects 
the  extensive  moor  of  the  Veluvoe,  which  extends  as  far  as  the 
Zuider  Zee.  Stat.  Wolfhezen,  then  — 

7372  M.  Arnhem  (*Zon,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  nearest 


to  Cologne.  WESEL.  2.  Route.     15 

the  rail.  stat.  and  the  pier  of  the  Netherlands  Co.;  Paya-Baa,  In 
the  Groote  Markt,  not  far  from  the  pier  of  the  Cologne  and  Dfissel- 
dorf  Co. ;  *Zwynahoofd,  in  the  town ;  Bast,  also  in  the  town ;  Belle- 
true,  V4  mile  heyond  the  Zon,  prettily  situated ;  *DePaauw,  near  the 
station,  2nd  class),  with  41,800  inhab.  (nearly  y2  Rom.  Cath. ),  long 
the  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Quelders ,  is  still  the  capital  of  that  pro- 
vince. Although  a  good  specimen  of  a  clean  Dutch  town,  it  offers  little 
to  detain  the  traveller.  The  Groote  Kerk  ('great  church')  contains 
monuments  of  the  Dukes  of  Guelders.  The  Town  Hall  derives  its 
local  appellation  of  Duivelshuia  ('devil's  house1)  from  the  grotesque 
figures  which  adorn  it. 

The  environs  far  surpass  those  of  any  other  Dutch  town  in 
attraction.  The  grounds  of  *Sonabeek  deserve  a  visit  (entrance 
near  the  station,  V2  M.  N.  of  the  town).  They  are  open  to  the 
public  (visitors  ring  the  'Bel  voor  den  Poortier').  The  custodian, 
who  also  shows  the  Belvedere  Tower,  which  commands  a  line  view, 
lives  at  the  entrance  (fee  for  1  pers.  V2  fl>  f°r  a  patty  1-2  fl.). 

Immediately  below  the  town  is  the  Reeberg ,  a  slight  eminence 
with  pleasure-grounds.  Higher  up  is  the  country-seat  of  Heidenoord, 
adjoining  which  are  pleasant  walks  through  the  woods  in  all  di- 
rections. In  the  opposite  direction ,  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  Arnhem, 
lies  the  thriving  village  of  Velp,  on  the  hills  near  which  are  situ- 
ated several  beautiful  parks  and  pleasure-grounds ,  all  open  to  the 
public.  The  most  frequented  are  those  of  Roozendaal  (with  hotel) 
and  Beekhuizen.  —  Railway  to  Zutphen  and  Salzbergen,  see  Bae- 
deker's N.  Germany. 

82  M.  Zevenaar  is  the  Dutch,  87  M.  Elten  the  Prussian  frontier- 
station.  Hence,  crossing  the  Rhine,  to  Cleve  and  Cologne,  see  R.  4. 

The  line  by  Emmerich  and  Diisseldorf  to  Cologne  remains  on  the 
right  bank. 

93  M.  Emmerich  (H6tel  Royal ;  Hof  von  Holland ;  Bahnhofa- 
Hotel)  is  a  clean  Dutch-looking  town.  At  the  upper  end  rises  the 
Gothic  spire  of  the  Aldegundia-Kirche,  at  the  lower  is  the  Munater, 
in  the  transition-style  of  the  11th  and  12th  centuries. 

100  M.  Empel  (omnibus  five  times  daily  to  Bees,  an  old  town  on 
the  Rhine,  IV2  M.  distant);  106  M.  Mecrhoog ;  then  — 

114  M.  Wesel  (*Dombuach;  Qebauer;  Giesen),  a  strongly  forti- 
fied town ,  with  20,600  inhab. ,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Rhine  and  Lippe.  The  handsome  Rathhaus,  lately  restored,  and 
embellished  with  modern  statues  on  the  facade ,  dates  from  1396. 
8t.  Willibrord'a  Church,  originally  a  fine  Gothic  edifice  of  the  12th 
cent.,  is  now  little  more  than  a  ruin  with  a  roof.  It  contains  a 
marble  tablet  recording  that  Peregrine  Bertie ,  son  of  Willoughby 
d'Eresby  and  Catherine,  Duchess  of  Suffolk,  was  born  here  in  1555. 
The  exiles  were  Protestants,  who  had  fled  from  the  persecutions  of 
Queen  Mary,  and  were  permitted  by  the  magistrates  of  Wesel  to  take 
up  their  quarters  in  the  ohurch,  then  unoccupied.  In  the  Exercier- 


16     Route  2.  DUSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

Plat*,  near  the  station ,  is  a  Monument  on  the  spot  where  eleven 
Prussian  officers  of  Von  Schill's  Corps,  captured  by  the  French  in 
Stralsund,  were  shot  in  1809.  The  town  is  connected  by  a  bridge- 
of-boats  with  the  island  of  Buderich  and  Fort  Blucher,  the  tete- 
de-pont  of  Wesel  on  the  left  side  of  the  Rhine.  The  river  is  also 
spanned  here  by  the  large  railway-bridge  of  the  Geldern-Venlo  and 
Ooch-Boxtel  lines  (see  Baedekers  Belgium  and  Holland)* 

The  train  crosses  theLippe  and  traverses  aflat  and  bleak  district. 
122  M.  Dinslaken  lies  172M.  from  the  Rhine,  on  which,  3  M. 
higher  up,  is  the  old  town  of  Orsoy,  formerly  fortified.  128  M. 
Sterkrade  (with  an  extensive  foundry). 

131  M.  Oberhausen  (Ho f  von  Holland;  ^Railway  Restaurant), 
a  town  of  very  recent  origin ,  with  16,600  inhab.,  is  the  junction 
of  the  Cologne-Minden,  Mulheim,  Ruhrort,  Wesel-Emmerich,  and 
Altenessen  -  Minister  -  Bremen  lines.  There  are  extensive  iron- 
works in  the  vicinity  (comp.  p.  49). 

136  M.  Duisburg  (*Europaischer  Hof ;  Ho f  von  Holland;  Kai- 
serhof;  Prinz  Regent)^  a  very  ancient  town,  situated  near  the  Rhine 
and  the  Ruhr,  is  connected  with  both  rivers  by  means  of  a  canal. 
It  is  now  a  rapidly  increasing  manufacturing  town,  with  41, 200  in- 
hab. ,  and  one  of  the  chief  dep6ts  of  the  Ruhr  coal- traffic.  The  *Sal- 
vatorkirche,  of  the  15th  cent.,  restored  in  1850,  contains  an  epitaph 
to  the  memory  of  the  geographer  Gerhard  Mercator,  who  died  here 
in  1594.  Fine  view  from  the  Kaiserberg  (Wilhelmshohe  Inn),  on 
the  way  to  Mulheim,  1  M.  from  the  station.  Railway  to  Bochum 
and  Dortmund,  see  Baedeker's  N.  Germany. 

The  following  stations  are  Grossenbaum  and  Calcum. 

151  M .  DiLSBeldorf.  —  Railway  Station*.  The  station  of  the  Right- 
Rhenish  Railway  for  Elberfeld,  Troisdorf,  and  Speldorf  is  on  the  E.  side 
(PI.  D,  2),  those  of  the  Cologne-Minden  and  the  Bergisch-Mdrkisch  lines  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  town  (PL  B,  C,  4).  The  station  of  the  last,  a  very  hand- 
some building,  is  connected  with  the  flrst-mentioned  station  by  a  tramway- 
line.  The  Bergisch  -  Markisch  line  has  another  station  at  Obercassel,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine  (PI.  A,  3). 

Hotels.  "Breidenbacheb  Hof,  (PI.  a;  B,3);  'European  Hotel  (PI.  b; 

B,  4),  opposite  the  Cologne-Minden  8tation,  R.  2  m.  50,  A.  60  pf.  —  *  Hotel 
Thungen  (Kaiserlicher  Hof;  PI.  d;  B,  4),  opposite  the  Bergisch-Markiseh 
Station.  —  R6mischer  Kaiser  (PI.  c;  A,  B,  3,  4),  Benrather-Str.  3,  with 
good  cuisine  and  wine,  R.  l!/2-2,  A.  V*  ™- ;  *K6lnischer  Hof  (PL  e;  B,  3), 
at  the  corner  of  the  Flinger-Str.  and  Mittel-Str. ;  Stelzxann*  opposite  the 
Cologne-Minden  Station;  Kbautstein,  Schadow-Str.  81;  Rugenberg,  Ben- 
rather-Str. 14;  Alte8  Kaffeehacs,  Andreas-Str.  1. 

Restaurants.  In  the  Hdtel  Krautstein  and  Hdtel  Rilgenberg,  see  above ; 
at  the  Cologne-Minden  and  Bergisch- Markisch  Stations.    *Tonhalle  (PL  24; 

C,  3),  a  favourite  place  of  recreation,  with  a  large  garden  and  concert- 
rooms  (music  several  times  a  week,  symphony-concert  on  Sat.) ;  *K&ppers 
A  Adams,  Elberfelder-8tr.  11;  Seulen,  Berger-Str.  36;  Born,  Karls-Platz  18; 
Dick,  Zoll-Str.  9.  —  Cafes.  *Oeisler,  confectioner,  Mittel-Str.  6,  and  on  the 
Ananasberg  (p.  20),  also  restaurant;  cafe*  in  the  Breidenbaeher  Hof,  see 
above.  —  Beer.  Ahmer,  Hohe-Str.  32;  Baum,  Ost-Str.  87;  Schdfer,  Caser- 
nen-Str.  29;  ffdrtel,  HaroldStr.  18.  —  Eiskellevberg  (PL  B,  2),  popular  on 
summer  evenings,  with  view. 


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to  Cologne.  DUSSELDORF.  2.  Route.     1 7 

Bath  Establishments,  in  the  Rhine,  see  PI.  A,  2. 

Cab*.  Per  drive  for  1-2  persons  60,  for  each  addit.  pers.  25  pf.  —  Tram- 
ways traverse  the  town  and  suburbs. 

Post  Office  (PI.  18),  at  the  corner  of  the  ltasernen-Str.  and  Harold-Str. 

Telegraph  Office,  Konigs-AUee  29. 

Picture  Galleries.  *J3chulte's,  Allee-Str.  42,  where  not  only  the  finest 
new  works  of  the  Dusseldorf  school,  but  a  number  of  master-pieces  of  the 
earlier  part  of  the  present  century  are  exhibited  (most  of  them  for  sale).  — 
Bitmeyer  A  Kraus,  Elberfelder-Str.  5 :  works  of  the  Dusseldorf,  and  also 
of  the  Berlin,  Munich,  French,  Belgian,  and  Dutch  schools.  Admission  to 
each  of  these  galleries  50 pf.  —  Conzeny  Scbadow-Str.  65.  —  B&wner  A  Co., 
Schadow-Str.  15  and  17. 

British  Consul:  Mr.  J.  A.  Crowe. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  smaller  Protestant  Church,  Berger-Strasse. 
Chaplain,  Rev.  Mr.  Qodefroy. 

Dusseldorf,  the  capital  of  the  district  of  that  name,  with  95,460  in- 
hab.,  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the  DusseL- 
bach.  It  is  of  comparatively  modern  origin,  and  with  the  exception 
of  some  of  the  oldest  streets,  is  a  pleasant  and  well-built  town.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent,  it  was  chosen  as  a  residence  by  the 
Dukes  of  Berg,  and  on  their  becoming  extinct  in  1609  it  continued 
to  be  the  residence  of  the  Princes  Palatine  till  1716,  who  then  trans- 
ferred their  seat  to  Mannheim,  and  afterwards  to  Munich.  In  1806- 
13  Dusseldorf  belonged  to  France,  and  in  1815  it  became  Prussian. 

Recently  Dusseldorf  has  become  an  industrial  and  commercial 
town  of  some  importance,  though  the  manufactories  are  compara- 
tively unobtrusive.  It  is  chiefly  celebrated,  however,  as  a  cradle 
of  art. 

The  Academy  of  Art,  founded  by  the  Elector  Charles  Theodore  In 
1767,  which  rose  to  some  importance  towards  the  close  of  last  century, 
sustained  a  severe  loss  by  the  removal  to  Munich  in  1805  (on  the  pretext 
of  withdrawing  it  from  the  perils  of  war)  of  its  celebrated  picture-gal- 
lery ,  the  chief  source  of  art  instruction  at  that  period ,  and  now  the 
most  valuable  part  of  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich.  Under  the  French  sway 
it  declined  still  farther.  In  1820  Pktbk  Cornelius  (born  at  Dusseldorf 
1783,  died  at  Berlin  1867),  who  had  hitherto  painted  in  Rome,  was 
appointed  director  by  the  Prussian  government ,  and  under  his  auspices 
the  Academy  rapidly  acquired  new  importance.  But  the  monumental 
painting,  which  Cornelius  exclusively  cultivated,  never  became  thoroughly 
naturalised  here ,  because  the  master ,  along  with  the  majority  of  his 
pupils,  spent  one  half  of  the  year  in  painting  the  frescoes  of  the  Glypto- 
thek  at  Munich,  and  the  other  half  to  a  great  extent  in  preparing  cartoons 
for  the  same  work.  In  the  Rhenish  towns,  however,  there  are  a  few  at- 
tempts at  mural  painting  belonging  to  this  period  (e.g.  at  Bonn  and  Co- 
blenz).  The  true  golden  era  of  the  Dusseldorf  school  did  not  begin 
till  1827  when  W.  Schadow  (b.  1789,  d.  1862)  became  director,  especially 
as  he  brought  with  him  from  Berlin  his  talented  pupils  /.  Hilbner,  Hil- 
debrandt,  Letting,  Sohn,  and  Bendemann,  while  J.  W.  Schirmer,  a  classical 
landscape-painter  of  Cornelius's  school,  still  remained  at  Dusseldorf.  Sever- 
al of  Schadow's  pupils  and  contemporaries  soon  rivalled  or  even  surpass- 
ed their  master,  while  he  himself  abandoned  the  monumental  and  classic 
fresco  style  of  Cornelius  and  devoted  himself  to  a  somewhat  naturalistic 
genre  style  which  was  more  congenial  to  him,  and  to  the  mastering  of 
the  technical  difficulties  of  painting  in  oils.  Shortly  after  his  appoint- 
ment the  Academy  could  boast  of  three  hundred  pupils. 

Towards  the  year  1840,  however,  there  unfortunately  sprang  up  reli- 
gious dissensions,  in  which  the  Roman  Catholic  element  obtained  the 
mastery,   and  which   proved    destructive   of  the   patriarchal    peace   and 

Basdbkrr's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  2 


18    Route  2.  DUSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

unanimity  which  had  hitherto  prevailed  at  the  Academy.  As  early  aa 
1838  Bendemann  and  Hiibner  had  migrated  to  Dresden ,  while  the  rising 
generation  of  painters  who  remained  at  Diisseldorf  compensated  in  some 
degree  for  this  loss  by  their  vigorous  and  well-coloured  landscapes  and 
genre-pieces,  adhering  chiefly  to  French  or  Belgian  types \  but  the  old 
'esprit  de  corps'  and  coherence  of  the  'school"  was  gone.  In  1854  Schir- 
mer,  and  in  1858  Leasing  quitted  the  Academy  for  appointments  at  Carls- 
ruhe.  In  1859,  on  the  retirement  of  Schadow,  whose  eyesight  had  begun 
to  fail,  Bendemann  was  summoned  from  Dresden  to  undertake  the  directo- 
rate, but  the  condition  of  the  school  remained  unaltered,  and  at  length 
in  1868  this  master  also  resigned  his  post.  Since  that  period  the  most 
prominent  members  of  the  Academy  have  been  Deger,  the  celebrated 
painter  of  religious  scenes ,  and  his  followers  Andreas  and  Carl  Afuller, 
Jltenbach,  and  Lavenstein,  while  Bendemann  himself,  the  brothers  Andreas 
and  Osteoid  Achenbach,  Knaus  (who  went  to  Berlin  in  1875),  Vautier,  and 
other  talented  masters,  continued  to  paint  at  Diisseldorf  independently  of 
the  present  school.  The  Academy  is  now  under  the  directorate  of  three 
professors  elected  by  their  colleagues,  and  at  present  there  are  signs  of  a 
revival  of  its  reputation. 

In  the  heart  of  the  older  part  of  the  town,  with  its  narrow  and 
irregular  streets,  stands  the  old  electoral  Palace  (PL  1 ;  A,  3),  long 
the  seat  of  the  Academy  of  Art  (see  p.  19),  which  was  remodelled 
in  1710,  restored  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  1846,  and  almost  en- 
tirely burned  down  in  1872.  In  front  of  the  palace  is  the  exten- 
sive National  Library,  In  the  palace-yard  rises  a  Statue  in  marble 
of  Elector  John  William  (d.  1716),  who  was  born  at  Diisseldorf. 

In  the  Mabkbt  Place  (PI.  A,  B,  3),  in  front  of  the  Rathhaus 
(PI.  20),  a  building  half  in  the  Gothic  and  half  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  built  in  1567,  rises  an  equestrian  Statue  of  Elector  John 
William  (PI.  5),  in  bronze,  over  life-size,  by  Qrupello,  dating 
from  1711,  erected  according  to  the  inscription  by  the  citizens,  but 
in  reality  by  the  elector  himself.  —  In  the  neighbouring  Bolker 
Strasse  Heinrich  Heine  was  born  in  1799  (d.  1856). 

The  Maximilians  -  Pfarrkirche ,  formerly  the  church  of  the 
Franciscans  (PI.  15  ;  A,  3),  contains  frescoes  by  Settegast  (above  the 
high-altar)  and  Molitor. 

The  Church  of  St.  Lambert  (PI.  14;  A,  2),  a  Gothic  edifice  of 
the  14th  cent. ,  with  a  tower  partly  Romanesque,  contains  at  the 
back  of  the  high-altar  the  Monument  in  marble  of  William  IV.  (d. 
1592)  and  John  William  III.  (d.  1609),  the  last  two  dukes  of  Gleve 
and  Berg,  and  of  other  members  of  their  family,  erected  in  1629. 
There  is  also  an  'Antependium',  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  the 
patrons  of  the  church,  presented  by  A.  Achenbach,  on  the  occasion 
of  his  joining  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Adjoining  the  sacristy 
a  fine  old  mural  painting  has  recently  been  discovered  and  restored. 
On  the  exterior  of  the  N.  side  of  the  church  is  a  crucifixion,  with 
numerous  figures,  sculptured  in  stone  in  the  16th  cent.,  successfully 
restored  and  partly  renewed  by  the  sculptor  J.  Kehl.  —  An  inscrip- 
tion in  the  Ratinger-Strasse  indicates  the  house  in  which  Carl  lm- 
mermann  (b.  1796,  d.  1840),  the  author,  died. 

The  Church  of  St.  Andrew  (PI.  11 ;  B,  3),  formerly  the  church 
of  the  court  and  of  the  Jesuits,  completed  in  1629,  and  connected 


to  Cologne.  POSSBLDORF.  2.  BouU.     19 

with  the  old  college  -which  is  now  occupied  by  the  government 
offices ,  contains  the  tombs  of  Count  Palatine  Wolfgang  William 
(d.  1653)  and  Elector  John  William,  mentioned  above,  iu  a  chapel 
off  the  choir.  Side-altars:  left,  Deger,  Virgin;  right,  Hubner, 
Scourging  of  Christ.  Side-chapel  to  the  right  of  the  choir :  W. 
Schadow,  Pieta,  a  painting  in  oils. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  old  town  rises  the  new  Aeadamy  of  Art 
(PI.  16  a;  B,  2),  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice  by  Riffart,  com- 
pleted in  1879.  The  principal  facade,  520  ft.  long,  is  turned  to- 
wards  the  winter-harbour,  and  is  embellished  with  handsome  win- 
dows and  niche?  for  statues.  It  contains  several  studios  and 
lecture-halls,  a  room  full  of  plaster-casts,  etc.  In  the  Aula,  the 
mural  decoration  of  which  is  not  yet  completed,  are  141  works  of 
the  once  famous  Gallbry  of  Old  Mastbbs,  the  greater  part  of 
which  was  removed  to  Munich  in  1805  (adm.  Sun.  11-1  gratis,  at 
other  times  50  pf.).  The  most  valuable  paintings  are  an  •As- 
sumption by  Rubens,  and  Madonnas  by  Cima  da  Contgliano  and 
Bellini.  It  also  contains  a  large  collection  of  drawings  of  every 
school  (14,000  in  number)  and  engravings,  and  the  Ramboux  col- 
lection of  water-colours. 

The  old  town  on  the  W.  is  separated  from  the  Modern  Quar- 
ters on  the  E.  side  by  the  broad  Allee-Strasse ,  planted  with 
trees,  in  which  are  situated  Schulte's  Picture  Gallery  (p.  17)  and 
the  Breidenbacher  Hof.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  Allee-Strasse  and 
near  the  entrance  to  the  Hofgarten  is  the  handsome  new  Theatre 
(PI.  23;  B,  3),  designed  by  Giese,  and  opened  in  1875. 

Opposite,  in  the  FriecLrichs-Platz,  is  the  new  Kunsth&Ue,  an 
edifice  in  the  French  Renaissance  style  by  Giese,  completed  in 
1881 ;  it  contains  the  *8tadti8ehe  Gemaldesammlung,  or  municipal 
gallery  of  modern  Dusseldorf  masters.  Admission  daily  9-6,  50  pf.  ; 
catalogue  30  pf. 

Landscapes  by  A.  Achenbach,  executed  between  1843  and  1866',  O.  Achen- 
bachy  Funeral  at  Palestrina ;  A.  Baur,  Christian  martyrs  of  the  Roman  im- 
perial age ;  C.  Begat,  Exposure  of  Moses  •,  Better,  Beheading  of  John  the 
Baptist;  W.  Camphausen,  Frederick  the  Great ;  Cornelius,  The  Wise  and 
Foolish  Virgins,  one  of  the  earliest  works,  and  one  of  the  few  oil-paint- 
ings executed  by  this  master,  begun  in  1813,  formerly  in  the  possession  of 
Thorvaldsen;  /.  P.  Basenclever,  Wine-tasting,  the  master's  last  picture  ; 
Ph.  Hildebrandt,  Portrait  of  Wappers,  the  Antwerp  painter;  /.  HUbner, 
Portrait  of  Prof.  Keller;  R.  Jordan,  The  first  child;  L.  Knaus,  Card-players; 
Chr.  KOhler,  Hagar  and  Ishmael ;  C.  F.  Letting,  Landscape  with  warlike 
scene;  Th.  Mintrop,  Holy  Family;  H.  K.  A.  MUcke,  Portrait;  C.  Milller, 
Annunciation;  J.  Niessen,  Portrait  of  Schirmer;  J.  RiHing ,  Portraits  of 
Schadow  and  K.  F.  Lessing ;  H.  Salentin,  Village  sermon ;  J.  W.  Schirmer, 
Italian  landscape,  Dutch  landscape,  Twenty-six  biblical  scenes  ;  A.  Schrddier, 
Don  Quixote  before  Dulcinea  of  Toboso ;  A.  Seel,  Church  of  St.  Mark, 
Venice;  K.  F.  Sohn,  Tasso  and  the  two  Leonoras;  A.  Tidemand,  Service 
of  the  Haugianer  in  Norway. 

In  the  open  space  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Konigs-AUee,  near  the 
entrance  to  the  Hofgarten,  rises  the  Statue  of  Cornelius  (PI.  7; 
B,  3),  the  moat  eminent  of  modern  German  painters,  by  Dondorf, 

2* 


20     Route  2.  DUSSELDORF.  From  Rotterdam 

erected  in  1879.  At  the  sides  of  the  handsome  pedestal  are  alle- 
gorical figures  of  Poetry  and  Religion ;  in  front,  Painting,  upon  the 
Sphinx ;  at  the  back,  Germania  and  Italia,  in  relief.  The  frieze 
represents  Faust  and  Helen.  —  The  house  in  which  Cornelius  was 
horn,  in  the  Kurze-Strasse,  is  marked  by  a  memorial-slab. 

Farther  on  we  come  to  the  Soha:dow-Pi.atz  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  which 
is  embellished  with  a  colossal  Bust  of  Schadow  (PI.  4),  in  bronze, 
designed  by  Wittig. 

The  handsome  hall  of  the  Realschule ,  or  Commercial  School 
(PI.  21 ;  C,  3),  Kl08ter-Str.  7,  is  adorned  with  a  fresco-frieze  hy 
Bendemann ,  being  an  allegorical  representation  of  Art ,  Science, 
Commerce,  and  Industry,  the  finest  work  of  the  kind  at  Diissel- 
dorf.  Admission  50  pf.,  the  proceeds  being  devoted  to  the  foun- 
dation of  scholarships ;  explanatory  notice  by  Dr.  Heinen,  1  m. 

In  the  K5nigs-Platz  (PI.  C,  3)  a  new  Protestant  Church,  in 
the  Romanesque  style ,  has  been  erected  from  plans  by  Kyllmann 
and  Hey  den.  On  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Platz  is  the  Justiagebaude, 
or  court-house  {PI.  10),  the  Assisen-Saal,  or  assize-room,  in  which 
contains  Schadow' s  last  great  oil-painting  (Paradise,  Hell,  and 
Purgattfry) ,  painted  by  order  of  King  Frederick  William  IV.  — 
Adjacent  are  the  new  Municipal  Archives,  a  brick  building. 

The  *Hofgarten  (PI.  B,  C,  2 ;  restaurant  on  the  Ananasberg, 
p.  16),  which  was  laid  out  in  1769,  but  was  extended  and  altered 
with  artistic  taste  after  the  levelling  of  the  fortifications  in  1802  by 
the  director  Weihe,  to  whom  a  monument  (PI.  6)  has  been  erected, 
affords  the  pleasantest  walks  at  Dusseldorf.  The  well-kept  grounds 
extend  down  to  the  Rhine  on  the  W.,  and  on  the  £.  to  the  Jagerhof 
(PI.  9 ;  C,  2),  once  a  hunting-lodge,  and  now  occupied  by  the  Prince 
of  Hohenzollem.  The  stables  in  the  Duisburger-Str.  are  tastefully 
adorned  with  sculptures. 

Nearly  adjoining  the  Hofgarten  is  the  JacobCsche  Oarten  Pern- 
pelfort,  formerly  the  Tesidence  of  the  philosopher  Friedrich  Hein- 
rich  Jacobi  (d.  1819),  and  visited  by  Goethe,  Herder,  Wieland, 
and  other  celebrities  of  that  period.  Since  1860  it  has  belonged 
to  the  'Malkasteri  club  of  artists,  and  forms  the  centre  of  their  so- 
cial meetings,  and  the  scene  of  their  summer  festivals.  In  the 
new  building  (PI.  17)  in  the  garden,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  is  a 
fine  room  with  excellent  paintings  on  wood.  —  To  the  N.W.,  in 
the  Stern-Str.,  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Marien-Hospital  (PI.  C,  1),  in 
the  Gothic  style. 

The  handsome  Post  Office  (PL  18 ;  B,  4),  is  built  in  the  Flo- 
rentine palatial  style.  —  In  the  vicinity  are  the  Neuen  Anlagen,  or 
new  promenades ,  in  which  stands  the  new  House  of  the  Estates 
(PI.  B,  5),  built  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style  by  Raschdorff.  — 
-By  the  Furstenwall  stands  the  Protestant  Hospital  (PI.  A,  5).  —  In 
the  Bilker-Allee  (PI.  A,  B,  6)  is  the  new  Flora  Garden,  with  a  fine 
concert-hall.  - 


to  Cologne.  MULHEIM.  2.  Route.     21 

The  Cemetery,  to  the  N.  of  the  town  (PI.  B,  4),  contains  several 
handsome  monuments. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  beyond  the  Rhenish  station  (PL  D,  1,  2), 
about  I1/?  H.  from  the  Konigs-Platz,  and  reached  by  tramway,  lie*  the 
new  Zoological  Garden  (adm.  50  pf.  \  band  on  Wed.  and  Sat.)*  tastefully 
laid  out  from  plans  by  Bodinus  and  the  painter  Professor  Camphausen, 
but  ae  yet  possessing  few  wild  animals.  —  Adjoining  the  Zoological  Oar- 
den  on  the  £.  is  the  Duaselthal  Asylum  for  homeless  children,  formerly 
a  Trappist  monastery,  presented  by  the  government  to  Count  von  der 
Recke  in  1819,  and  fitted  up  by  him  for  its  present  purpose. 

The  ancient  town  of  Xaiaenrwerth  (Rheinucher  Bo/),  on,  the  right 
bank  of  the  Rhine,  6 II.  from  Diisseldorf  and  21/*  V.  from  Caicutn  (p.  16),  is 
the  seat  of  a  training  school  for  Protestant  Sisters  of  Charity,  an  extensive 
institution,  with  branches  in  many  different  parts  of  Germany,  founded 
by  the  benevolent  pastor  Fliedner  (d.  1864)  in  1836.  The  old  Romanesque 
Church  of  Kaiserswerth,  of  the  12th  and  13th  cent,  contains  an  admirably 
executed  ^Reliquary  of  the  13th  cent,  in  which  the  bones  of  8t.  Suitbertusy 
a  native  of  Ireland  who  first  preached  the  Gospel  here  in  710,  are  pre- 
served. Of  the  palace  from  which  the  young  Emp.  Henry  IV.  was  carried 
off  in  1062  in  a  vessel  belonging  to  his  austere  guardian  Archbishop  Anno 
nothing  is  now  left  but  a  few  fragments,  called  the  'Konigsburg'. 


Railway  to  Cologne.  To  the  left  rises  Schloss  EUer.  Beyond 
(157  M.)  Benrath,  among  the  trees  to  the  right,  stands  a  handsome 
royal  chateau  erected  in  1756-60  by  Elector  Palatine  Charles.  Beyond 
(162  M.)  Lang  en f eld  the  train  crosses  the  Wupper,  passes  the  chateau 
of  Beuschehberg  (left),  and  at  (146  M.)  Kuppersteg  crosses  the  Vhun. 
The  Rhine  is  approached  near  Schloss  Stammheim,  a  chateau  of 
Count  Fiirstenherg,  beyond  which  the  train  reaches  (172  M.)  Mul- 
heim  am  Bhein  (Bergischer  Hof) ,  a  thriving  manufacturing  town 
with  20,427  inhab. ,  which  owes  its  prosperity  to  Protestant  citizens 
who  emigrated  from  Cologne  in  the  17th  century.  Handsome  modern 
Gothic  church  near  the  station,  hy  Zwirner. 

From  Mulheim  to  Bbkgisch-Gladbach  akd  Bknsbebg,  8*/<  M.,  branch- 
railway  in  Vshr.  (lm.  20  pf.,  90,  60  pf.).  One  of  the  finest  existing  Gothic 
edifices,  similar  in  plan  to  the  Cologne  Cathedral,  is  the  church  of  the 
suppressed  Cistercian  abbey  of  *Altenberg,  founded  in  1256,  consecrated 
in  1379.  This  magnificent  edifice,  situated  in  the  DhUnthal ,  6  M.  K.  of 
Gladbach,  was  judiciously  restored  by  Frederick  William  IV.,  by  whose 
ancestors,  the  Counts  Adolph  and  Eberhard  vom  Berge,  the  abbey  was 
founded  in  1133.  Several  members  of  the  family  are  interred  here.  — 
Bensberg  possesses  a  chateau  built  by  Elector-Palatine  John  William  in 
1705,  now  a  military  school. 

From  Mulheim  to  JSlberfeld  and  Barmen,  see  R.  7. 

Below  Mulheim  the  train  intersects  the  fortifications  of  Veutz 
(p.  44),  where  the  ordinary  trains  stop,  while  the  express  crosses 
the  railway-bridge  to  (175  M.)  Cologne. 

Steamboat  from  Diisseldorf  to  Cologne  tedious,  although  several 
places  on  the  banks  possess  historical  interest. 


22 


3.  Cologne. 


Railway  Stations.  1.  Central  Station  (PI.  F,  4)  at  Cologne,  for  all  the 
trains  to  Bonn,  Goblenz,  Mayence,  Ehrenbreitstein,  Lahnstein,  Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle  and  Belgium,  Diisseldorf,  Crefeld,  and  Cleve,  and  for  the  express 
trains  to  Minden,  Hanover,  and  Berlin.  —  2.  The  8t.  Pantalbon  Station 
(PI.  B,  3),  for  local  trains  to  Briib.1.  —  3.  Right-Rhenish  Station  at  Deutz, 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine ,  near  the  railway-bridge ,  for  the  or- 
dinary trains  of  the  Eoln-Minden  line  (Diisseldorf,  Minden,  etc.).  —  4.  Bek- 
gisch-Markisch  Station  at  Deutz,  on  the  Rhine  (pp.  44.  60),  for  all  the 
trains  of  the  lines  of  that  name.  —  An  Omnibus  runs  from  the  Central 
Station  at  Cologne  in  connection  with  the  trains  starting  from  the  last- 
named  station.  —  Porter  into  the  town:  for  packages  not  exceeding  1  libs., 
30  pf. ;  not  exceeding  551bs.,  50  pf.;  not  exceeding  110 lbs.,  75  pf.  Cabsy 
see  p.  23. 

Hotels.  'Hotel  dd  Nord  (PI.  a :  E,  5),  Frankenplatz  6,  near  the  iron 
bridge,  with  railway-ticket  and  luggage-dispatch  office,  R.  from  3m.,  A. 
80  pf.  ;  *H6tkl  Disch  (PI.  b:  E,4),  Briicken-Str.  13-21,  R.  3  m.,  A.  60,  B. 
1  m.  20,  D.  3  m.  50  pf. ;  *Mainzeb  Hof  (PI.  c:  E,  3, 4),  Glockengasse  14-20  ; 
^Victoria  (PI.  d :  D,  5),  Heumarkt  46-50 ;  *Hotel  Ebnst  (PI.  e :  F,  4),  Tranlc- 
gasse  3,  between  the  station  and  the  cathedral,  R.  2!/2,  B.  1  m. ;  *Wik- 
neb  Hof  (PI.  f :  E,  4),  Glockengasse  6-10  5  Hotel  de  Hollands  (PI.  g:  D,  5), 
Thurnmarkt  36-40,  on  the  Rhine.  All  these  are  of  the  first  class:  R.  from 
2-3  m.,  B.  I-IV2  m.,  D.  2V*-3  m.,  A.  60  pf.  —  H/W.  „„  n/hnt  n>i,  n.  E^  4-^ 
Domhof  5-11,  R.  and  B.  from  2  m.  80,  D.  2  m.  50  pf.  ;  Russiboheb  Hof  (PI.  i  : 
D,  5),  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Str. ;  Hotel  de  Cologne  (PI.  k:  D,  5),  Thurn- 
markt 28-34,  on  the  Rhine;  *St.  Paul,  Fettenhennen  19,  by  the  cathedral, 
R.  from  2,  D.  2  m.  ;  *Hotel  de  Paris  (PL  m :  E,  4),  Drususgasse  3  * 
"Laacheb  Hof  (PI.  0:  D,  2),  Am  Laach  6-8;  Hotel  Museum,  Drususgasse  21. 
—  Eubopaischeb  Hof,  Comodien-Str.  2,  near  the  cathedral,  R.  &  A.  2*/2  m., 
B.  1  m.  •,  H6tel  Billstein,  Friedrich-Wilhelm-Str.  7,  near  the  bridge-of- 
boats ;  *H6tel  Weber  (Bonnsches  Posthaus),  Hoch-Str.  27,  in  the  Augua- 
tiner-Platz  (PI.  4;  D,  4);  *Dbei  Konige,  on  the  Rhine,  near  the  bridge- 
of-boats,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  1 1/2-2  m.  5  *H6tel  Fischer,  Burgmauer  3;  Ber- 
gischeb  Hof,  Thurnmarkt  3-5,  near  the  bridge-of-boats ;  Hotel  Duhr, 
Rheinberg  5,  well  spoken  of;  Landsbero,  Marzellen-Str.  1;  Union,  Do- 
minikaner  2.    Average  charges  in  these :  R.  <fe  B.  2-21/*  m.,  D.  2-2V2  m. 

At  Deutz:  Pbinz  Cabl  (PI.  q :  D,  6),  on  the  Rhine,  with  view  of  Cologne, 
R.  from  1  m.  50  pf. 

Restaurants  at  the  Central  Railway  Station  in  Cologne  and  the  two 
stations  in  Deutz.  —  Wine.  'Heuser,  Herzog-Str.  10;  Antonetty,  Comodien- 
Str.  8;  'Johnen,  Breite-Str.  36B;  'Berzdorf,  8andbahn  10;  Freischiltz, 
Am  Hof  16;  "Restaurant  at  the  Gurzenich  (p.  37);  Welker,  Perlenfuhl  5*, 
"Altdeutsche  Weinstabe  ('Zur  Glocke*),  Am  Hof  14  (PI.  E,  4,  5);  Steigerwald, 
Lintgasse  9;  Stockhausen ,  Sternengosse  69.  —  Beer.  "Werny,  Salomons- 
gasse  18,  between  the  Rathhaus  and  Hoch-Str.,  dinner  1  m.  50  pf. ;  *Kind, 
Am  Hof  12 ;  'Fischer ,  in  the  arcade  near  the  Hoch-Str.  (PI.  F,  5) ;  Ta- 
verne  d"  Alsace,  Laurenz-Platz  2  (PI.  F,  5),  Strassburg  beer;  *Heuser,  Anton  s- 
gasse  4;  Vier  Jahreszeiten,  Elogius-Platz  5 ;  Kehl,  by  the  Museum;  Daniels, 
Grosse  Budengasse  2;  Aldenkirche'n ,  Herzog-Str.  4;  Simons,  Muhlenbach, 
near  the  Heumarkt,  and  many  others.  —  Oysters*  *Q.  Bettger,  Kleine  Bu- 
dengasse 10;  Pommer,  Breite-Str.  156.  —  Cafes.  'Moster,  Oben-Marspforten, 
also  the  best  confectioner  in  Cologne ;  Reichard,  Hoch-Str.  104,  confectioner  ; 
Wiener  Cafe",  Briider-Str.  1;  Co/4  du  Ddme,  Domhof  7-9;  Palant,  Hoch- 
strasse  119,  corner  of  the  Minoriten-Str. ;  'Fischer  (see  above);  Rheinberg, 
Friedrich-Wilhelm-8tr.  12 ;  Schmitz,  Neumarkt  12. 

Places  of  Recreation.  A  military  band  generally  plays  on  summer 
evenings  in  the  garden  of  the  Prinz  Carl  hotel  at  Deutz,  which  affords 
a  good  view  of  Cologne  and  the  busy  traffic  on  the  river  and  the 
bridge-of-boats.  PalanCs  Kaiser -Garten,  near  the  Thurmchen ,  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  town  (on  the  way  to  the  Zoological  Garden);  Bayen- 
haus,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town  (comp.  PI.  A,  6);  'Marienburg,  restaurant 


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50.  St  Maria  ini  Capitol 

D.5. 

W.Ciirsenich      .         . 

B.S. 

TZ.Wolkmimra 

B.*. 

51.  St  Maria  i.ct.Kttpferoasxe 

K.3. 

11 .  (rymnascu/n  tTriedr.  Willi  ' 

Cfe 

33.  Zeuyhaus  . 

F..3. 

Si.  St Maria  an  ^rsfcurhen 

r.:». 

12.       t           r        'Jesuiten  '. 

F.4«. 

33.  StMaria  jwrSc/imtraaxxc 

B.K 

13.              —        fXeues  > 

D.2. 

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e.:». 

W.Loye 

D.2. 

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D.5. 

53.  StMatcritms 

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E.5. 

Hb.SlAndreas    . 

F.*i 

57.  StFbntaleon  fjfi/tt  K 

B.3. 

17.                   WaUraf-Rlduwtx 

E.*. 

37.  SiAposleln 

B.2. 

&H.sm*er 

D.3.4-. 

IS.  Polixei  -  Praesidiuin 

£.3. 

38.  tV?  Carciliu 

D.3.4-. 

80  .XaJascapelfe 

E.5. 

19.  A>  j/  -JHrextion 

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E.*. 

60.  St  Sever  in 

A.5. 

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G.5. 

M.  St  Ursula 

G.l. 

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E.5. 

J>om                          E.F.+.5. 

G2.Frsutvter-K. 

cr. 

^LRegiminffsgebaude            E.F.3. 

4A..Elendkirdte 

.B.5. 

M.Synaaoge 

E.I. 

DIR   KdLNER    BOM. 


K  il  X  i      X     Hi  K  if  X  ■  i 

>f  U  >t  III      >r-J       ■!:  >■'    I1   >. 


CliorkapeJleu : 
\.£rujAbatus-K.  5.Jgnes-K. 

I.Maternus-T.  6.  Midia&s-K. 

3 .  Johaiuus-J.  7.  Stephans-X. 

* .  Bndkonigen. -J.  8.  Jtarien -J. 

Q.Schatukamjtufr.      W .  Sfwri&tei  -       11.  Ka/ritrtsttat  .     12.  Bibliolhrk. 


Baths. 


COLOGNE. 


3.  Route.     23 


with  pretty  grounds  (tramway  from  the  Waidmarkt,  see  below;  steamboat 
in  the  afternoon,  see  below) ;  Bt&dUscher  Garten,  about  l/t  M.  from  the  town, 
see  p.  44.  —  BrUhl  (p.  67)  also  attracts  numerous  visitors. 

*  Zoological  Garden,  V»  M.  below  the  town,  nearly  opposite  to  Mulhelm 
(p.  .21),  see  p.  43.  Adm.  1  m.,  on  Sundays  50  pf. ;  concerts  on  Sunday,  Sa- 
turday, and  Wednesday  afternoons.  Tramway-ears  and  steamers  (see  be- 
low) ply  between  the  town  and  the  gardens  ('Restaurant). 

*  Botanical  Garden  of  the  Flora  Society,  adjoining  the  Zoological  Gar- 
den, see  p.  44.  Admission  1  m.,  on  Sundays  50  pf. ;  Aquarium  50  pf. ;  good 
restaurant ;  concerts  on  Sundays  and  Wednesdays,  and  oftener  in  summer. 

Theatres.  Stadt- Theater  (PI.  29;  E,  D,  3),  Glockengasse  (1st  Sept.  to 
1st  May).  Wilhelm- Theater,'  8chi\deTgs#ae  (PI.  D,  E,  3).  Bummer  Theatre, 
near  the  Flora.  —  Circtu  Carr4,  Gertruden-Str.  4,  near  the  Neumarkt. 

Xusie.  Cologne  has  of  late  years  become  one  of  the  most  musical 
places  in  Germany.  The  QUrzenich  Concerts  (p.  87;  seats  in  the  body  of 
the  hall  4  m.  50  pf..  in  the  gallery  2  m.,  the  latter  often  oppressively  hot), 
ten  in  number,  which  take  place  annually  in  winter,  have  attained  a  justly 
merited  celebrity,  owing  to  the  admirable  choice  of  the  music,  as  well  as 
to  the  number  and  skill  of  the  performers.  These  concerts  are  conducted 
by  Dr.  Hiller ,  the  director  of  the  Conservatorium  of  Music.  The  latter 
(Wolfs-Str.  3),  founded  in  1851,  is  supported  partly  by  government  and  the 
city,  and  partly  by  private  subscription,  and  has  numbered  among  its  di- 
rectors some  of  the  most  talented  musicians  of  Germany.  Another  insti- 
tution which  has  earned  a  high  reputation  is  the  M&nner-Gesangvereiny  or 
Men's  Vocal  Society,  conducted  by  S.  de  Lange,  by  which  admirable  con- 
certs are  given  at  the  Wolkenburg  (p.  40).  Amateurs  of  music  should  en- 
deavour to  obtain  an  introduction  to  the  Mutikalische  Gesellschaft,  or  to  the 
Philharmonische  QeselUehaft,  societies  which  meet  on  Saturdays  at  7.90  p.m., 
the  former  at  Wolfs-8tr.  3,  the  latter  in  the  Gorzenich. 

Baths.  Warm  at  Siegen"sy  Schildergasse  72  (also  Russian  baths,  Ac). 
Baths  in  the  Rhine,  by  the  bridge-of-boats  (also  warm  baths);  Schiefer, 
in  Deutz,  near  the  bridge-of-boats,  Nolden,  at  the  Rheinau  (PI.  A,  6),  these 
two  with  swimming-baths  and  accommodation  for  ladies ;  Pionier-Schwimm- 
anttalt,  in  Deutz,  below  the  iron  bridge;  Actien-Schwimmanstalt ,  on  tbe 
Rheinau  (PI.  B,  6). 

Cab  Tariff.  Persons: 

A.  Per  Drive. 

Drive  within  the  city  of  Cologne 

From  a  point  within  the  city  to  the  suburbs, 

as  far  as  the  Bischofsweg 

B.  Drives  from  the  City  or  Suburbs. 
Zoological  and  Flora  Gardens  and  Stadtgarten 
Bergisch-Hark.  Station  at  Deutz,  incl.  bridge 

Villa-Colony  Marienburg 

C.  By  Time. 

For  i/t  hr 

For  1  hr 

Each  additional  ■/«  hr 

For  a  trunk  or  heavy  package  26  pf.,  each  additional  package  10  pf.j 
small  articles  in  the  hand  free.  — Double  fares  from  10  p.m.  to  7  a.m. 

Tramways.  1.  Circular  Line  ('Ringbabn')  round  the  city,  beginning 
at  the  Franken-Platz,  near  the  iron  bridge  (comp.  Plan).  —  2.  From  the 
Neumarkt  (PL  D,  3)  to  Bhrenfeld,  Melaten,  and  Lind.  —  3.  From  tbe  Waid- 
markt (PL  C,  4)  to  Bayenthal  and  Marienburg.  —  4.  From  the  Eigelstein 
(PI.  C,  4)  to  Nippe*,  the  Flora,  and  the  Zoological  Garden.  —  5.  From  the 
Franken-Platz  along  the  Rhine  to  the  Zoological  Garden.  —  6.  From  Deutz 
to  Kalk  and  to  Millheim  (p.  21). 

Steamboats,  see  Introduction,  p.  xv.  The  piers  are  near  the  bridge- 
of-boats  (PL  D,  5,  6).  Local  Steamers  ply  frequently  between  Cologne  and 
Miilheim  (p.  21;  25  pf.),  starting  from  the  bridge-of-boats  (PL  D,  E,  5,  6), 
and  touching  at  St  Cunibert  (p.  43),  and  (20  pf.)  near  the  Zoological  and 
Flora  gardens  (p.  44).    Other  steamers  ply  every  half-hour  in  the  afternoon 


1 

2 

3 

4 

m:t 

■•« 

m.  pf. 

TP25 

1  - 

1  - 

1.  26 

1.  50 

1  - 
1.  75 

2  - 

1.  25 
1.  75 
2  - 

1.  50 
2  - 
2  - 

1.  50 

2.  25 
2  - 

1  - 

2  - 
-  50 

1  - 

2  - 
-  50 

1.  50 
3  - 
-  75 

1.  50 
3  - 
-  75 

'■it 


24     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  History. 

from  the  Filzgrabenthor  (PI.  D,  5)  to  Maricnburg,  a  group  of  suburban 
villas  a  little  above  Cologne  (25  pf.  ;  there  and  back  40  pf.). 

Post  Office  (PI.  19;  £,3),  Glockengasse  25-27.  Branch-offices  for  letters 
and  parcels  in  the  Marzellen-Str.,  to  the  1ST.  of  the  Central  Station,  at  1 
Hohe-Str.,  at  35  Klingelpiite,  and  at  the  Hotel  du  Nord.  —  Telegraph  Office 
(PI.  27),  Cfecilien-Str.  4 ;  also  at  Bischofegarten-Str.  29,  at  the  Central  Sta- 
tion, and  at  the  office  of  the  Kolnische  Zeitung,  Breite-Str.  76  and  78. 

Eau  de  Cologne.    The  oldest  firms  are  Johann  Maria  Farinay  opposite 

the  Jiilichs-Platz  (Obenmarspforten  23),  and  Johann  Anton  Farina  at  the 

'Stadt  Mailand\  Hoch-Str.  129,  opposite  the  W.  portal  of  the  cathedral  (3  A)  -, 

!(Mtal80  at  fiiHchiupi^tK  |,  Ac.     Case  containing  six  bottles  of  the  ordinary 

medium  siJe1,  from  i  m.  50  pf. 

Objects  of  Art  and  curiosities  of  all  kinds  are  sold  by  Lemperizy 
Grosse  Sandkaul  4;  and  by  Bourgeois ,  Unter  Fettenhennen.  Also  at  the 
Kblner  Kuntt  und  Gewerbe-Basar,  Am  Hof  14. 

Exhibition  of  Paintings,  at  Ed.  Schultt's,  Richartz-Str.  16,  near  the 
Museum  (a  dm.  50  pf.  \  com  p.  p.  17).  —  Industrial  Exhibition »  Glocken- 
gasse 3;  adm.  25  pf. 

American  Consul:  Mr.  George  E.  Bullock.  —  British  Vice-Oonaul: 
Mr.  William  Hellmers  Jr.,  Bheinau-Str.  18. 

English  Church  8ervice  at  No.  3  Bischofsgarten-Str.  (11  a.m.  and  4.30 
p.m.).    Chaplain.  Rev.  Dr.  Hartman,  Hotel  Duhr. 

Principal  Attractions :  Cathedral,  interior,  and  walk  round  the  external 
choir-gallery  (p.  31) ;  Museum  (p.  32),  Hochstrasse ;  Rathhaus  (p.  36)  \  Gilrxe- 
nieh  (p.  37);  Kbnigsdenkmal  in  the  Heumarkt  (p.  38);  St.  Maria  im  Capi- 
tol (p.  38)  i  thence  proceed  to  the  Neumarkt  and  past  the  Church  of  the 
Apostles  (p.  40)  to  St.  Gereon  (p.  41) ;  then  to  the  new  Rhine  Bridge  (p.  31)  -, 
Flora  or  Zoological  Garden  (p.  44).  A  glimpse  of  the  chief  sights  of  Cologne 
occupies  two  days.  The  order  of  the  following  description  will  be  found 
the  most  convenient.  The  best  time  for  the  churches  is  the  morning 
after  9  o'clock.  (Before  that  hour,  and  from  11  to  11.  30  a.m.  there  is 
divine  service.) 

The  names  of  the  streets  leading  to  the  Ehine  (W.  to  E.)  are  painted 
red,  of  those  parallel  to  the  Rhine  (N.  to  S.)  black. 

Cologne  (130  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  the  largest  town  in  the 
Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia ,  the  residence  of  an  archbishop ,  and 
one  of  the  most  important  commercial  places  in  Germany,  is  a  for- 
tress of  the  first  class,  with  144,750  inhabitants  (five-sixths  of 
whom  are  Roman  Catholics),  including  a  garrison  of  7000  men.  It 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rhine,  across  which  a  bridge-of-boats 
and  an  iron  bridge  lead  to  Deutz,  a  town  on  the  opposite  bank 
(15,000  inhabitants).  From  a  distance,  and  especially  when  ap- 
proached by  steamboat,  the  town  with  its  numerous  towers  presents 
a  very  imposing  appearance,  but  most  of  the  old  streets  are  narrow, 
gloomy,  and  badly  drained.  Many  of  them,  however,  contain  in- 
teresting specimens  of  domestic  architecture,  dating  from  the  16th, 
15th,  and  even  the  13th  century.  Of  late  considerable  improvements 
have  been  effected ;  most  of  the  narrowest  streets  have  been  swept 
away,  and  replaced  by  about  seventy  new  ones,  containing  tasteful 
and  substantial  buildings.  As  the  girdle  of  fortifications  with  which 
it  is  surrounded  is  now  being  extended,  the  city  will  probably  in- 
crease still  more  rapidly.  The  area  at  present  covered  by  the  city 
proper  is  about  983  acres ;  including  the  suburbs  about  1900  acres. 

History.  Cologne  was  founded  by  the  TJbii,  at  the  time  when  they 
were  compelled  by  Agrippa  to  migrate  from  the  right  to  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine.    In  A.  D.  51  Agrlppina ,   daughter  of  Germanicus  and  mother 


History.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     25 

of  Nero,  founded  here  a  colony  of  Roman  veterans,  which  at  first  wm 
called  Colonia  Agrippinensis,  and  afterwards  Colonia  Claudia  Agrippina. 
Of  the  strong  walls  of  this  settlement  there  are  still  some  remains. 
It  was  the  seat  of  the  Legate  of  Germania  Inferior.  In  306  Constantino 
the  Great  began  a  stone  bridge  over  the  Rhine,  which  connected  Mars- 
pforten  with  what  was  then  the  island  of  St.  Martin,  and  thence  crossed 
to  Deutz.  This  bridge  was  afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Normans,  and 
finally  removed  by  Archbishop  Bruno  (see  p.  41).  From  the  end  of 
the  fifth  century  Cologne  belonged  to  the  kingdom  of  the  Franks,  and 
it  was  long  occupied  by  the  Ripuarian  kings.  Charlemagne  raised  the 
bishopric,  which  had  been  founded  here  in  the  fourth  century,  to  an  arch- 
bishopric, the  first  archbishop  being  the  imperial  Chaplain  Hildeboldy  who 
built  the  oldest  cathedral  church,  and  presented  to  it  a  valuable  library, 
which  8 till  exists. 

The  archbishops  soon  began  to  lay  claim  to  political  as  well  as 
ecclesiastical  power,  and  endeavoured  to  construe  the  privileges  granted 
to  them  by  the  Emperor  into  unlimited  jurisdiction  over  the  city.  In 
consequence  of  these  pretensions  they  were  continually  at  variance  with 
the  citizens,  and  their  quarrels  usually  assumed  the  form  of  sanguinary 
feuds,  particularly  under  Anno  J  J.  (1056-75),  Philipp  von  Heinsberg  (1167-91), 
Konrad  von  Hochstaden  (1238-61),  Engelbert  von  Falkenburg  (1261-74),  and 
Siegfried  von  Westerburg  (1275-97).  The  long  contest  was  decided  in  favour 
of  municipal  independence  by  the  battle  of  Worringen  (1288 ;  see  p.  44), 
and  the  archbishops  were  compelled  to  transfer  their  residence  to  Briihl 
(p.  67),  and  afterwards  to  Bonn.  They  retained,  however,  the  highest 
jurisdiction  and  other  rights,  and  the  citizens  continued  to  take  the  oath  of 
allegiance,  'so  long  as  they  should  be  maintained  in  the  rights  and  privileges 
handed  down  to  them  by  their  forefathers'.  The  conflicts  carried  on  in 
the  town  itself,  between  different  noble  families  or  between  the  nobles 
and  the  guilds,  were  still  more  violent.  It  was  not  till  1396,  when  the 
guilds  gained  a  decisive  advantage,  that  there  was  a  cessation  of  hostilities 
(comp.  p.  36).  In  1482, 1513,  and  on  other  occasions,  the  city  was  again  the 
scene  of  revolutionary  struggles.  Its  vigorous  fund  of  vitality  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that,  in  spite  of  all  these  troubles,  Cologne  was  unquestionably  one 
of  the  wealthiest  and  most  prosperous  cities  in  Germany  at  the  end  of 
the  15th  century.  Its  commerce,  especially  its  trade  with  London,  where 
it  possessed  warehouses  at  the  Guildhall,  was  of  the  greatest  importance. 
At  an  early  date  Cologne  became  incorporated  with  the  Hanseatic  League. 
in  which  it  contested  the  supremacy  with  Lubeck.  The  weights  and 
measures  of  Cologne  were  in  use  in  almost  every  Rhenish,  Westphalian, 
and  Dutch  town.  A  fair  held  at  Cologne  at  Easter  attracted  visitors  from 
all  parts  of  Europe,  and  even  from  beyond  the  sea. 

In  the  course  of  its  mediseval  history  Cologne  may  boast  of  having 
twice  been  a  cradle  of  German  Art.  The  first  occasion  was  about  the 
middle  of  the  12th  century,  when  the  ecclesiastical  enthusiasm  shown  by 
the  acquisition  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  and  also  the  civic  love  of  splendour 
found  expression  in  a  highly  developed  style  of  Architecture,  calculated 
for  picturesque  effect.  One  after  another  the  larger  churches  were  re- 
modelled, special  attention  being  devoted  to  the  choir.  The  best  specimen 
of  this  period  of  architecture  is  presented  by  the  Apottelkirche,  as  seen 
from  the  Neumarkt.  During' the  13th  cent,  the  taste  for  building  con- 
tinued and  led  to  a  restoration  of  the  Cathedral,  in  which,  however,  the 
traditional  Romanesque  architecture  was  abandoned  for  the  new  Gothic 
style,  emanating  from  France  and  then  spreading  rapidly  throughout  Europe. 
For  a  period  of  about  fifty  years,  dating  from  the  close  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, Cologne  enjoyed  a  second  golden  era  of  art,  chiefly  confined  to  the 
province  of  Painting.  The  municipal  archives  preserve  the  names  of  a 
great  number  of  painters,  but  only  in  a  very  few  instances  can  any  of 
these  be  definitely  attached  to  existing  pictures.  Among  the  best  known 
are  Meitter  Wilhelm  (died  1378),  of  whose  mural  paintings  in  the  Hansa- 
Saal  of  the  Rathhaus  some  remains  are  preserved  (now  in  the  Museum, 
p.  33),  and  Meitter  Stephan  (Loehner)  of  Constance,  who  died  in  1451.  The 
most  famous  pictures  of  this  school  in  Cologne  are  the  Dombild  (p.  90), 


26     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  Cathedral. 

the  Madonna  of  the  Priests'  Seminary  (p.  31),  and  the  Madonna  in  an  ar- 
bour of  roses  (p.  33).  —  The  taste  for  architecture  was  not  extinct  even  at 
a  later  period.  The  porch  of  the  Rathhaus,  for  example,  is  an  interesting 
specimen  of  the  German  Renaissance.  Not  only  were  old  churches  re- 
novated, hut  occasionally  new  ones  were  built  (e.  g.  the  Church  of  the 
Jesuits).  Prior  to  1801,  when  many  of  them  were  secularised,  Cologne 
possessed  more  than  100  churches,  which,  of  course,  could  only  be  kept 
in  repair  by  constant  care  and  attention.  —  In  the  province  of  Science, 
Cologne  held  by  no  means  so  high  a  place  as  in  that  of  art.  The  univer- 
sity, founded  in  1388,  acquired,  as  the  chief  seat  of  the  opposition  to 
Humanism  in  the  contest  of  Reuchlin  with  the  Obscurantists,  a  wide  but  far 
from  enviable  reputation.    It  was  suppressed  at  the  close  of  last  century. 

After  the  16th  century  Cologne  declined,  at  first  gradually,  and  after- 
wards rapidly.  In  common  with  the  rest  of  the  Hanseatic  towns  its 
commerce  lost  its  former  importance.  Continual  internal  discords,  leading 
to  the  banishment  in  1608  of  the  Protestants,  who  settled  at  Crefeld, 
Elberfeld,  Diisseldorf,  and  Mulheim,  proved  very  prejudicial  to  the 
interests  of  the  city.  It  retained,  however,  its  privileges  as  a  free 
imperial  city  until  its  occupation  by  the  French  (6th  Oct.,  1794).  By  the 
peace  of  Campo  Formio  (17th  Oct.,  1797)  it  was  incorporated  with  France. 
—  It  was  not  till  after  1815,  under  Prussian  rule,  that  Cologne  began  to 
revive.  The  rapid  progress  of  its  steamboat  and  railway  systems,  and 
the  enterprise  of  the  citizens,  many  of  whom  possess  great  wealth,  have 
combined  to  make  Cologne  the  centre  of  the  Rhenish  trade  and  one  of 
the  most  considerable  commercial  cities  in  Germany. 

The  **Cathedral  f,  or  Dom  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5),  which  justly  excites 
the  admiration  of  every  beholder,  and  is  probably  the  most  magni- 
ficent Gothic  edifice  in  the  world,  stands  on  a  slight  eminence  about 
60  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  partly  composed  of  Roman  remains,  near  the 
Central  Station.  As  early  as  the  9th  century  an  episcopal  church 
(see  p.  25)  occupied  this  site,  but  in  course  of  time  the  inhabitants 
regarded  it  as  unworthy  of  the  rapidly  increasing  size  and  prosperity 
of  their  city.  The  Archbishop  St.  Engelbert  first  entertained  the 
project  of  erecting  a  new  church  here,  but  in  consequence  of  his 
untimely  death  in  1225  (see  p.  29)  it  was  never  executed.  His 
second  successor  Conrad  of  Hochstaden  (see  p.  30),  after  the  old 
church  had  been  severely  injured  by  a  conflagration,  at  length  laid 
the  foundation-stone  of  the  present  structure  with  great  solemnity 
on  14th  Aug.,  1248.  The  designer  of  this  noble  work  is  believed  to 
have  been  Meister  Gerard  of  Riehl  (a  village  near  Cologne),  to  whom 
the  Chapter  made  a  grant  in  1257  in  recognition  of  his  services. 

The  choir  was  the  first  part  of  the  building  proceeded  with. 
The  work  progressed  slowly,  chiefly  owing  to  the  struggles  between 
the  archbishops  and  the  citizens  (see  p.  25).  The  stone  used  in 
the  building  was  quarried  in  the  Drachenfels  (see  p.  78).  On 
27th  Sept.,  1322,  the  choir,  which  had  been  temporarily  terminated 

t  Travellers  are  recommended  not  to  engage  any  of  the  numerous 
valets-de-place  who  hover  about,  in  and  near  the  cathedral ,  as  their  ser- 
vices are  unnecessary.  The  nave  and  transept  with  the  stained-glass 
windows  are  open  the  whole  day.  but  walking  about  is  forbidden  during 
divine  service  (on  week-days  9-10  a.  m.  and  3-3.90  p.  m.).  The  following 
are  the  authorised  fees  (each  person) :  (1).  For  opening  the  choir  and 
choir-chapels,  1  m.  50  pf.  (2).  For  the  attendant  who  conducts  visitors 
along  the  upper  choir-gallery,  round  the  exterior  of  the  cathedral,  and 
to  the  top  of  the  tower,  1  m. 


Cathedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     27 

by  a  lofty,  wall  towards  the  west,  was  solemnly  consecrated  by 
Archbishop  Heinrich,  Oraf  von  Vimeburg.  The  builder  soon 
proceeded  to  lay  the  foundations  of  the  N.  and  (in  1325)  S. 
transepts,  while  at  the  same  time  the  old  church,  which  was  still 
used  for  divine  service,  was  gradually  removed.  In  1388  the  nave 
was  sufficiently  advanced  to  be  temporarily  fitted  up  for  service, 
and  in  1447  the  bells  were  placed  in  the  S.  tower.  Subsequently 
the  enthusiasm  subsided,  and  by  the  end  of  the  15th  century  all 
hope  of  seeing  the  church  completed  according  to  the  original  plan 
was  abandoned.  The  unfinished  building  was  provided  with  a  tem- 
porary roof,  and  nothing  more  was  done  except  the  decoration  of  the 
interior.  Some  of  these  decorations,  such  as  those  of  the  high-altar, 
belong  to  the  degraded  style  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries.  The 
uncompleted  structure  became  more  and  more  dilapidated.  In  1796 
the  building  was  converted  by  the  French  into  a  hay-magazine,  its 
ruin  being  rendered  more  complete  by  the  abstraction  of  the  lead 
from  the  roof. 

Frederick  William  III.  and  IV.,  kings  of  Prussia,  at  length 
rescued  the  desecrated  edifice  from  total  destruction.  The  former, 
at  the  suggestion  of  Sulpice  Boissertfe,  caused  it  to  be  examined  by 
the  eminent  architect  Schinkel  in  1816,  and  gave  instructions  for 
its  restoration.  The  woTk  of  renovation,  however,  was  not  begun 
till  1823.  It  was  at  first  carried  on  under  the  superintendence  of 
Aklert  (d.  1833),  and  afterwards  under  that  of  the  talented  Zwirner, 
a  thorough  master  of  the  Gothic  style  (d.  1861).  On  Zwirner'9  death 
Herr  Voiatel  (b.  1829)  succeeded  to  his  office,  and  carried  the  work 
to  completion.  Zwirner  was  the  first  to  form  the  project  of  com- 
pleting the  cathedral,  an  idea  hailed  with  general  enthusiasm.  The 
foundation-stone  of  the  new  part  of  the  building  was  laid  on  4th 
Sept.,  1842,  and  more  than  15,0002.  were  afterwards  spent  yearly  on 
the  undertaking,  the  greater  part  of  this  amount  being  defrayed  by 
government,  the  remainder  by  private  subscriptions,  societies,  and 
the  proceeds  of  a  lottery.  The  entire  sum  expended  between  1842 
and  1880  amounted  to  upwards  of  900,0002.  The  last  stone  of  the 
huge  S.  tower  was  placed  in  position  in  August,  1880,  and  on  the 
15th  Oct.  of  the  same  year  the  completion  of  the  Cathedral  was  cel- 
ebrated in  the  presence  of  the  Emperor  William  and  almost  all  the 
sovereign  princes  of  the  German  Empire. 

The  cathedral  is  a  cruciform  structure  (see  Plan,  p.  23),  the 
nave  being  flanked  with  double,  and  the  transept  with  single  aisles. 
Total  length  148  yds.,  breadth  67  yds.,  length  of  transepts  94  yds., 
height  of  the  walls  150  ft.,  height  of  the  roof  201  ft.,  height  of  the 
central  tower  rising  over  the  transept  357  ft.  The  towers,  512  ft.  in 
height,  are  the  loftiest  in  Europe.  This  enormous  mass  of  masonry 
is  enlivened  by  a  profusion  of  flying  buttresses,  turrets,  gurgoyles, 
galleries,  cornices,  foliage,  etc. 

The  *  W.  Facade,  which  has  been  completed  entirely  in  accord- 


28     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  Cathedral. 

ance  with  the  still  extant  original  design  of  the  14th  cent. ,  with 
its  two  huge  towers,  the  principal  portal  between  them ,  and  the 
vast  middle  window,  is  a  superb  example  of  strictly  consistent  Go- 
thic workmanship.  The  towers  consist  of  four  stories,  of  which  the 
three  lower  are  square  in  form,  while  the  fourth  are  octagonal, 
crowned  with  elegant  open  spires. 

The  Crane  on  the  S.  tower,  which  had  stood  there  for  400  years  and 
constituted  one  of  the  chief  landmarks  of  Cologne,  was  removed  in  1868. 

The  largest  of  the  Bells  in  the  S.  tower  is  the  Kaiserglocke ,  which 
was  cast  in  1874  with  the  metal  of  French  guns ,  and  weighs  25  tons. 
The  next  two  in  point  of  size,  cast  in  1447  and  1448,  weigh  11  and  6  tons 
respectively. 

The  principal  portal  is  93  ft.  in  height  and  31  ft.  in  width ; 
the  side  portals  38  ft.  high  and  18  ft.  wide ;  the  central  window  48 
ft.  high  and  20  ft.  wide.  The  portal  of  the  S.  tower  was  decorated 
in  the  beginning  of  the  15th  cent,  with  excellent  sculptures,  prob- 
ably by  Meister  Konrad  Kuyn. 

The  arms  of  the  transept  are  terminated  by  the  N.  and  S.  por- 
tals, which  were  completed  in  1859,  having  been  built  entirely  from 
Zwirner's  designs,  as  the  original  plans  were  no  longer  extant.  The 
N.  Portal  is  executed  in  a  simple  style,  while  the  *S.  Portal  is  elab- 
orately decorated,  and  embellished  with  statues  designed  by  Schwan- 
thaler  and  presented  by  the  Emp.  William  (then  Prince  of  Prussia). 

The  *  Choir >  completed  in  1322,  and  flanked  with  seven  chapels, 
exhibits  in  its  lower  parts  the  simple  and  dignified  forms  of  the 
early  Gothic  style ,  while  in  the  upper  parts  the  full  magnificence 
and  bold  outlines  of  the  consummated  art  are  displayed. 

The  **Intbkiob,  which  is  borne  by  56  pillars ,  is  130  yds.  in 
length.  The  nave  is  16  yds.  wide  from  the  centre  of  one  pillar  to 
that  of  the  one  opposite,  and  145  ft.  in  height ;  each  of  the  inner 
aisles  is  7l/2  yds.,  each  of  the  outer  9  yds.  wide ;  each  of  the  four 
aisles  is  60  feet  high.  The  area  of  the  interior  is  7399  sq.  yds. 
In  1863  the  partition  which  for  centuries  had  separated  the  nave 
from  the  choir  (see  p.  26)  was  removed.  The  effect  produced  by  the 
ensemble  is  now  singularly  impressive. 

Navb  and  Transept.  The  large  stained-glass  window  above  the 
W.  portal ,  executed  by  Milde  of  Lubeck ,  was  presented  by  the 
Crown  Prince  and  the  Crown  Princess  of  Germany.  The  five  stained- 
glass  windows  in  the  N.  (left)  aisle,  executed  in  1508  and  1509,  and 
representing  archbishops,  saints,  and  armorial  bearings,  are  fine  spe- 
cimens of  the  workmanship  of  that  period.  The  beautiful  modern 
windows  of  the  S.  aisle,  by  Joseph  Fischer  and  Hellweger,  pre- 
sented in  1848  by  King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria,  prove  that  the  once 
almost  obsolete  art  has  regained  much  of  its  ancient  glory :  1st  win- 
dow, John  the  Baptist ;  2nd,  Nativity ;  3rd,  above,  Last  Supper,  and 
below,  Death  of  Christ;  4th,  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost ;  5th,  Stoning 
of  St.  Stephen.  Below  are  prophets,  evangelists ,  and  fathers  of  the 
church  in  full  figure.    A  sixth  window ,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  S. 


Cathedral.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     29 

Transept,  was  in  1855  filled  with  stained  glass,  designed  by  Hess 
and  others,  to  the  memory  of  Joseph  v.  Gdrres  (d.  1848),  'catholics 
veritatis  defensori  glorioso'.  The  modern  stained-glass  windows  of 
the  S.  Portal,  presented  by  the  Emp.  William ,  were  executed  in 
Berlin ;  those  of  the  N.  portal ,  commemorating  the  elevation  of 
Archbishop  v.  Geissel  of  Cologne  to  the  rank  of  cardinal ,  are  of 
Cologne  workmanship.  The  old  stained-glass  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
N.  Transept  is  partly  from  several  ancient  churches  of  Cologne,  now 
demolished,  and  partly  from  the  chapel  of  the  Virgin  in  the  cathedral. 

The  Choir  is  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  iron  screen,  which 
is  to  be  replaced  by  a  lofty  rood-loft.  We  enter  by  the  N.  (.left) 
door.  Immediately  to  the  left  is  the  fine  tomb  of  Anton  Ktyfttd 
(d.  1539).  Consoles  projecting  from  the  fourteen  pillars  of  the 
central  part,  or  High  Choir  proper,  bear  Statues  of  Christ,  Mary,  and 
the  Twelve  Apostles,  probably  executed  by  the  cathedral  architect 
Michael,  and  restored  in  1842 ;  these  are  overshadowed  by  artistic 
canopies.  The  marble  reliefs  in  front  of  the  high-altar  are  the 
work  of  the  same  hand.  The  modern  statues  in  the  transept  were 
put  up  in  1866.  The  nine  frescoes  in  the  arches  of  the  choir, 
executed  by  Steinle  in  1844 ,  represent  Angel  Choirs  in  the  eccle- 
siastical symbolic  style,  differently  coloured  in  accordance  with  their 
various  stages  of  development ;  they  are  best  viewed  from  the  gal- 
lery of  the  choir  (p.  31).  The  walls  behind  the  choir-stalls  are 
covered  with  tapestry  worked  by  ladies  of  Cologne,  illustrative  of  the 
Nicene  Creed  and  the  Seven  Sacraments.  The  handsome  carved 
Stalls  are  of  the  15th  century.  Under  brasses,  with  engraved  full- 
length  figures,  repose  Archbishop  v.  Spiegel  (d.  1835),  and  Cardinal 
von  Geissel  (d.  1864).  Above  the  triforium  of  the  choir  is  a  series 
of  admirable  old  Stained  Glass  Windows,  representing  the  kings  of 
Jndah  ,  etc. ,  belonging  to  the  end  of  the  13th  or  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  century.  The  windows  in  the  transepts  are  filled  with 
stained  glass  presented  by  private  individuals. 

Choir  Chapels.  1.  The  Engelbert  Chapel  (first  to  the  left,  N. 
side)  contained  down  to  1633  the  remains  of  Archbishop  Engelbert 
von  Berg ,  who  was  assassinated  by  Friedrich  von  Isenburg  on  the 
Gevelsberg  near  Schwelm  in  1225  (p.  26) ,  but  they  are  now  pre- 
served in  a  magnificent  silver  reliquary  in  the  treasury.  The  tombs 
of  Archbishops  Adolf  and  Anton  von  Schauenburg  (16th  cent.)  are 
worthy  of  notice.  — Before  the  sacristy  is  the  sarcophagus  of  Arch- 
bishop Engelbert  von  der  Mark  (1364-68),  with  a  fine  figure  in 
sandstone,  executed  during  the  lifetime  of  the  deceased. 

2.  Matemus  Chapel.  Tomb  of  Archbishop  Philip,  v.  Heinsberg 
(d.  1191)  in  the  form  of  a  town-wall  with  towers,  gates,  and  pin- 
nacles ;  also  a  good  statue.  The  altar-piece  is  by  Batthel  de  Bruyn 
{ 1548).  The  original  ground-plan  of  the  S.  W.  tower  of  the  cathedral 
and  an  original  view  of  the  S.  tower  from  the  E.  side ,  found  in 
Paris  in.  181 6,  are  preserved  here  under  glass  (comp.  3rd  chapel). 


30     Route  3;  COLOGNE.  Cathedral. 

"3.  Chapel  of  St.  John.  *Totob  of  Archbishop  Conrad  v.  Hoch- 
ataden  (d.  1261) ,  founder  of  the  cathedral ,  with  the  figure  of  the 
deceased  in  bronze ,  dating  from  the  first  half  of  the  15th  cent. , 
restored  in  1847.  The  Altar  of  St.  Clara ,  with  excellent  wood- 
carving  ,  representing  the  Passion ,  and  paintings  on  the  wings  be- 
longing to  the  school  of  the  Meister  Wilhelm ,  presented  by  the 
brothers  Boisseree,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  Under  glass  in  a  massive 
oaken  frame  is  here  preserved  the  original  sketch  on  parchment  of 
the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral  with  the  two  towers  in  their  com- 
pleted form.  Part  of  this  interesting  design  was  found  at  Darmstadt 
in  1814,  the  rest  at  Paris  in  1816. 

4.  Chapel  of  the  Three  Kings.  Here  were  formerly  preserved 
the  'Bones  of  the  Magi',  or  'Three  Kings',  which  were  brought  by 
the  Empress  Helena  to  Constantinople.  They  were  afterwards  taken 
to  Milan,  and  in  1164  presented  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  to  Arch- 
bishop Reinald  von  Dassele,  by  whom  they  were  removed  to  Cologne. 
The  reliquary  in  which  they  are  preserved  is  now  in  the  treasury 
(p.  31).  The  marble  mausoleum  erected  in  this  chapel  dates 
from  the  second  half  of  the  17th  century.  —  Below  the  centre 
window  is  a  valuable  relief ,  in  gilded  bronze ,  of  the  Adoration  of 
the  Magi  (1516).  On  the  S.  side  is  the  tomb  of  Archbishop  Ernst 
von  Baiern  (d.  1612).  The  other  Electors  of  the  House  of  Bavaria 
repose  outside  this  chapel.  The  heart  of  Marie  de  MSdicis  (p.  39) 
is  also  buried  under  a  stone  without  inscription  in  front  of  the  chap- 
el. Opposite,  at  the  back  of  the  high-altar,  is  the  tomb  Of  Arch- 
bishop Dietrich  von  Mors  (d.  1463),  probably  altered  at  a  later  date. 

5.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Aynes  contains  the  celebrated  *Vombild. 
a  large  winged  picture  representing  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi  in 
the  centre,  St.  Gereon  and  St.  Ursula  on  the  wings ,  and  the  An- 
nunciation on  the  outside. 

This  is  doubtless  the  picture  alluded  to  in  Diirer'a  diary  of  hia  tra- 
vels in  the  Low  Countries,  in  which  he  mentions  his  paying  two  'weisa- 
pfennige'1  to  see  the  picture  which  i Meister  Bteffen'  had  painted  at  Co- 
logne. It  was  this  notice  that  led  to  the  conjecture  that  Stephan  Loch- 
ner  was  the  author  of  the  painting.  There  is  no  inscription  on  the 
picture  itself,  the  supposed  traces  of  writing  being  merely  ornamental 
flourishes.  The  picture ,  which  is  of  imposing  dimensions ,  occupies  an 
intermediate  position  between  the  ideal  conceptions  of  mediaeval  times, 
aad  the  modern  realism  introduced  by  the  Dutch  school.  As  the  finest 
work  of  the  Early  German  Sdiiool  it  has  received  great  attention  from 
connoisseurs,  and  justly  occupies  an  important  place  in  the  history  of  art. 

In  the  middle  of  the  chapel  is  the  Sarcophagus  of  St.  Irmgardis 
(11th  cent.),  adorned  with  Gothic  arches  and  painted  figures  of  saints. 

6.  Chapel  of  St.  Michael.  Marble  tombstone  of  Archbishop  Wal- 
ram  of  Julich  (d.  1349).  Carved  altar  of -the  15th  century. 

7.  Chapel  of  St.  Stephen.  Stone  sarcophagus  of  Archbidiop 
Qero  (d.  976),  of  the  10th  cent.,  a  relic  of  the  old  cathedral,  upon 
which  was  placed  in  1802  the  portrait-statue  of  the  Imperial  general 
Von  Hochkirchen  (who  fell  at  Landau  in  1703),  by  Fortini. 


Arch.  Museum.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     31 

8.  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  (properly  speaking  the  last  bay  of  the 
outer  S.  aisle).  Tombstone  of  Archbishop  Reinald  von  Dassele  (d. 
1167,  gee  p.  30),  upon  which  the  marble  statue  of  Archbishop 
Wilhelm  von  Genney  (d.  1362)  was  placed  in  1842.  Opposite  is  the 
sarcophagus  of  Count  Gottfried  von  Arnsberg  (d.  1368).  Near  the 
altar  is  the  ^Monument  of  Archbishop  Frederick  of  Saarwerden  (d. 
1414),  consisting  of  a  figure  of  the  archbishop  in  bronze  on  a  sarco- 
phagus admirably  decorated  with  figures  of  saints,  the  whole  restored 
in  1847.  —  The  altar,  which  was  designed  by  Zwirner  in  1856,  is 
adorned  with  *  Overbed? s  Assumption,  purchased  in  1855  for  900t.  On 
the  next  wall-pillar  is  the  so-called  Madonna  of  Milan,  probably  a 
German  work  of  the  14th  century.  —  The  Stained  Glass  of  this 
chapel,  executed  at  Cologne  in  1857 ,  represents  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Virgin,  copied  from  ancient  mural  paintings  discovered 
in  1842  during  the  restoration  of  the  choir. 

By  a  pillar  at  the  entrance  to  the  S.  Transept  is  the  Statue  of 
8t.  Christopher,  about  10  ft.  in  height,  dating  from  the  16th  century. 
The  carved  altar  by  the  £.  wall  of  this  transept,  in  the  late-Gothic 
style,  is  from  the  church  of  St.  Maria  ad  Gradus. 

The  Treasury  (entrance  from  the  N.  ambulatory)  contains  the 
golden  *aenquary  of  the  Magi,  a  costly  specimen  of  Romanesque  work- 
manship, probably  executed  in  the  years  1190-1200.  It  was  seriously 
injured  in  1794,  when  carried  away  for  concealment  from  the  French, 
but  was  restored  in  1807.  The  silver  *  Shrine  of  St.  Engelbert,  in  the 
style  of  the  Renaissance,  dates  from  1633.  There  are  also  several  valuable 
Monstrances,  including  one  of  the  14th  cent.,  another  of  the  17th  cent, 
191/*  lbs.  in  weight ,  and  thickly  set  with  precious  stones ,  and  a  third 
presented  in  1848  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  Processional  Cross  of  the  12th  century. 
An  lOsculum  Pacts'',  of  the  16th  cent,  richly  decorated  with  enamels, 
pearls,  and  precious  stones  *  Sword  of  Justice;  sacerdotal  vestments; 
ten  admirably  carved  ivory  tablets  by  Melchior  Paulus  (1703-1733) ,  with 
scenes  from  the  Passion,  etc.  —  The  Sacristy  contains  a  fine  ciborium 
and  old  stained  glass.  —  In  the  Cathedral  Library  are  the  Hildebold 
Codices,  returned  from  Darmstadt  in  1868. 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  walk  round  the  *  Inner  Gallery  of  the. 
Qhoir  and  those  on  the  Exterior  of  the  Chcir,  or  to  ascend  the  Central  or  one 
orlfie  W.  Towers  (adm.  by  card,  see  p.  ot$  attendant  at  the  S.  portal,  where 
the  ascent  begins),  as  a  better  idea  may  thos  be  formed  of  the  grandeur  of 
the  structure.  The  external  gallery,  or  better  still  the  open  gallery  of  the 
central  tower,  commands  an  extensive  *Pbospkct  over  the  sea  of  houses, 
the  plain  intersected  by  the  Rhine,  and  the  Seven  Hts.  in  the  distance. 

The  Archiepiscopal  Museum  (PL  16;  admission  in  summer 
daily,  9-1  and  3-6;  in  winter  on  Wednesdays,  Sundays,  and  holi- 
days, 9-1 ;  fee  25-50  pf.),  opposite  the  S.  gate  of  the  cathedral,  is 
established  in  a  chapel,  formerly  belonging  to  the  Archiepiscopal 
Palace  and  re-erected  in  1665.  It  contains  a  collection  of  ecclesiasti- 
cal and  other  objects  of  mediaeval  art,  of  which  the  most  valuable  is 
a  Virgin  belonging  to  the  Priests'  Seminary,  by  an  able  Master  of 
the  Old  Cologne  School  (p.  25). 

The  Iron  Bridge  (PI.  F,  5,  6),  which  crosses  the  Rhine  to  the 
£.  of  the  cathedral  (completed  in  1859),  is  broad  enough  for  a 
double  line  of  rails  and  a  separate  roadway  for  ordinary  traffic.    It 


32     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  Museum. 

is  453  yds.  long,  and  47  ft.  atove  the  average  level  of  the  water. 
Over  the  entrance  on  the  left  (Cologne)  bank  is  an  Equestrian  Statue 
of  Frederick  William  IV.  by  Blaser,  on  the  right  bank  an  ^Equestrian 
Statue  of  William  I.  by  Drake,  both  erected  in  1867.  The  approach 
to  the  bridge  on  the  left  bank  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  choir  of  the 
cathedral.    Deutz,  on  the  right  bank,  see  p.  44. 

In  an  open  space  a  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  cathedral,  rises  the 
♦Museum ,  or  Wallraf-Rkhartz-Museum  (PI.  17 ;  E,  4) ,  built  in 
the  Gothic  (Tudor)  style  by  Felten  in  1855-61,  the  funds  for  its 
erection  (about  30,000f.)  having  been  presented  to  the  city  by  Herr 
Richartz,  a  wealthy  merchant  (d.  1861).  The  stately  building  faces 
the  N. ,  while  at  the  back  are  two  wings,  with  handsome  late- 
Gothic  cloisters,  adjoining  the  church  of  the  Minorites.  The  nucleus 
of  the  collections  of  pictures  and  antiquities  is  formed  by  those 
bequeathed  by  Professor  Wallraf  (d.  1824)  to  his  native  town.  In 
the  grounds  on  the  E.  side  is  the  old  Roman  arch  of  the  Pfaffenthor, 
an  ancient  gate  of  the  city  transferred  thither  from  its  original  posi- 
tion near  the  W.  portal  of  the  cathedral.  The  statues  which  adorn 
the  building  externally,  by  Blaeser,  Fuchs,  Mohr,  and  Werres,  re- 
present characters  of  distinction  in  the  annals  of  the  city.  The 
museum  is  open  on  week-days,  in  summer  9-6,  in  winter  9-4,  a<t- 
mission  75  pf.  (Wed.  gratis);  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  9-1,  gratis  ; 
closed  on  Easter-day,  Whitsunday,  and  Christmas-day.  Handbook 
to  the  museum  1  m.,  catalogue  of  pictures  50  pf.,  of  Roman  anti- 
quities 75  pf. 

Ground  Floor  and  Cloisters.  Entrance-hall,  on  the  right  and  left  of  the 
staircase,  busts  of  Wallraf  and  Richartz ,  in  marble  by  Blaeser.  —  To 
the  right  we  first  enter  a  large  Hall  ,  in  which  modern  sculptures  are 
usually  exhibited.  The  stands  in  the  centre  bear  a  series  of  admirable 
water-colours  by  Caspar  Schevren  (Nos.  1008-1028),  illustrating  the  scejf  cry, 
traditions,  history,  and  monuments  of  the  province  of  the  Rhine.  To  the 
left  we  obtain  a  view  from  above  of  the  Roman  mosaic  pavement  in  the 
cloisters.  —  We  next  enter  a  Saloon  containing  the  Roman  Antiquities: 
statuettes,  busts,  masks  (some  of  them  spurious).  *i.  Colossal  marble  head 
of  a  Medusa  found  at  Rome-,  4.  Epicurus;  9.  Scipio  Africanus;  21.  Julius 
Ceesar;  casts  of  well-known  antiques.  —  The  adjacent  Saloon  contains  a 
collection  of  Engravings,  Drawings,  Manuscripts,  and  also  of  Coins,  Small 
Works  of  Artt  Gems,  Carvings,  Remains  of  Sculptures,  etc.  1030  A,  Forty- 
two  cartoons  by  Rarnboux  for  the  tapestry  in  the  cathedral  (p.  29). 

The  Upper  Cloisters  contain  a  valuable  collection  of  German  pottery 
from  Siegburg,  Frechem,  and  Raren;  fine  specimens  of  Venetian  glass; 
Roman  glass  and  pottery;  cabinets  in  the  German  Renaissance  style;  a 
valuable  collection  of  thirty  scenes  in  Stained  Glass,  being  modern  copies 
of  old  masters  of  Cologne  and  the  Netherlands,  executed  at  Munich,  and 
bequeathed  by  the  brothers  Boisseree.  Also  numerous  photographs  of 
celebrated  works  of  art.  —  The  Lower  Cloisters  contain  Roman  and 
mediaeval  stone-monuments.  Also  Mosaic  Pavements,  one  of  which  of  con- 
siderable size,  the  'Mosaic  of  the  Sages'  (No.  SO),  found  during  the  con- 
struction of  the  new  hospital,  bears  portraits  of  Diogenes,  Socrates ,  Aris- 
totle, Chilon,  Plato,  Cleobulus,  and  Sophocles;  it  consists  in  part  of 
small  squares  of  glass,  and  probably  dates  from  the  fourth  century.  No.  188. 
Remains  of  a  wall,  painted  al  fresco ;  *193.  Sarcophagus,  found  at  Cologne, 
with  reliefs  of  Hercules  liberating  Hesione,  Hercules  stealing  the  Delphic 
tripod,  Theseus  and. the  Minotaur,   and  two  dancing-girls;   198.    Metrical 


Museum.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     33 

inscription  from  the  grave  of  a  boy;  Votive  stones  to  Mercurial  Cissonius 
(10),  and  Semele  let  ejus  sororibus'  (26);  1.  Altar  of  Jupiter  Saxanus, 
found  in  the  Brohl  Valley  (p.  87),  and  erected  by  the  Roman  soldiers 
working  in  the  quarries  there.  Also  remains  of  the  mural  paintings  from 
the  Hansa-Saal  of  the  Rathhaus  by  Meister  Wilhelm  p.  KOln  (p.  25),  re- 
presenting the  'nine  good  heroes'. 

To  the  left  on  the  ground-floor  are  six  rooms  containing  pictures  of 
great  historical  interest  of  the  Eablt  Cologne  School,  which,  however, 
will  afford  little  satisfaction  to  the  visitor  who  regards  the  collection  from 
an  aesthetic  point  of  view  only.  The  Virgin  with  the  bean-blossom,  the 
Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses,  the  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  the  Master 
of  the  Lyversberg  Passion ,  and  the  Death  of  Mary  by  the  Meister  von 
Calcar  are  the  most  important  works.  We  begin  with  Room  I.,  entered 
from  the  upper  cloisters,  (a)  Gothic  Pictubks  (Nos.  90-39)  of  the  years 
1300-1370;  36.  Passion  in  27  sections;  36-39.  Passion.  —  (b)  Meister  Wil- 
helm and  his  School,  from  about  1360  to  1420  (Nos.  40-117).  *40. 
(Room  II.)  Meister  Wilhelm,  Triptych:  the  Virgin  in  the  centre,  with  a 
bean-blossom  in  her  left  hand,  and  the  Infant  Christ  on  her  right  arm; 
on  the  left  St.  Catherine,  on  the  right  St.  Barbara.  41.  (Room  II.)  Meister 
Wilhelm  (?),  Christ  on  the  Cross  surrounded  by  Mary  and  eight  Apostles; 
98.  St.  Veronica  with  the  napkin ;  99.  (Room  I.)  Legend  of  8t.  Ursula, 
with  a  view  of  the  city  of  Cologne.  —  (c)  Meistkr  Stephah  and  his  school, 
from  about  1420  to  1460  (Nos.  11846,  in  Room  II.).  °118.  Madonna  in 
an  arbour  of  roses;  119-120.  St.  Ambrose  and  St.  Mark,  wings  of  a 
picture  by  this  master  in  the  museum  at  Darmstadt  (No.  168) ;  *121.  Last 
Judgment  (the  pictures  of  the  martyrdom  of  the  Twelve  Apostles  belong- 
ing to  this  work  are  in  the  Stadel  Gallery  at  Frankfort ,  and  six  saints, 
formerly  at  the  back  of  these,  are  now  in  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich). 
122, 123,  Scourging  and  Entombment  of  Christ.  —  (d)  Cologne  School,  in- 
fluenced by  that  of  the  Van  Eycks,  from  1430  to  1650  (Nos.  147-446,  in 
Rooms  III-VI.).  *151-168.  The  * Lyversberg  Passion",  an  altar-piece  for- 
merly in  the  possession  of  a  Herr  Lyversberg,  after  whom  several  works 
by  the  same  hand  as  this  are  usually  named ;  *158-163.  Triptych ,  De- 
scent from  the  Cross  (1480),  on  the  wings  Andrew  and  Thomas,  on  the 
outside  the  Assumption  of  Mary ;  *164.  Christ  on  the  Cross ;  182.  Glori- 
fication of  Mary;  184.  Last  Judgment;  196.  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  196. 
Mass  of  St.  Gregory;  197,  198.  Wings  with  saints;  *199.  Triptych,  Mysti- 
cal marriage  of  St.  Catherine  with  the  Infant  Christ;  on  tbe  wings  SS. 
Rochus  and  Gudula  inside,  and  SS.  Achatius  and  Cecilia  outside.  206. 
So-called  *  Altar-piece  of  St.  Thomas',  a  triptych:  in  the  centre  Christ 
appearing  to  the  doubting  Thomas;  inside  the  wings,  the  Madonna 
with  St.  John,  and  St.  Hippolytus  with  St.  Afra;  outside,  in  grisaille,  St. 
Symphorosa  with  her  seven  sons,  and  St.  Felicitas  with  her  seven  sons. 
°206.  Altar  of  the  Holy  Cross  (by  the  master  of  the  Boissere'e  St.  Bartho- 
lomew in  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich),  a  triptych ;  in  the  centre  Christ  on 
the  Cross,  on  the  wings  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Agnes.  *207.  Death  of 
Mary  by  the  Meister  von  Calcar,  a  work  after  which  several  others  by 
the  same  hand  are  named,  with  the  Donors  on  the  wings.  The  other 
pictures,  by  A.  von  Worms,  B.  Bruyn,  and  other  later  masters  of  Cologne 
are  interesting  to  connoisseurs  only.  —  The  antechamber  adjoining  the 
entrance-hall  contains  a  few  modern  works  of  art. 

The  Staircase  is  adorned  with  *Frescoes  by  Steinle,  illustrative  of 
the  history  of  art  and  civilisation  at  Cologne.  The  scenes  begin  with  the 
picture  to  the  left  as  we  look  back  from  tbe  topmost  landing  of  the  stair. 
1.  Roman  and  Romanesque  Period:  Constantine  the  Great  (324-337)  on 
his  throne,  surrounded  by  warriors,  artists,  and  others,  some  of  whom 
hold  in  their  hands  plans  of  the  emperor's  buildings  at  Treves  and 
of  his  bridge  at  Cologne;  on  the  other  side,  Charlemagne  (716-814),  also 
enthroned,  with  his  retinue,  including  Eginhard,  Alcuin,  and  Paulus 
Diaeonus.  Between  the  two  emperors  is  St.  Helena  with  her  attendants. 
In  the  corner  adjoining  Charlemagne  are  the  most  famous  archbishops 
of  Cologne:  St.  Hildebold  (d.  819)  with  the  model  of  the  old  cathedral,  St. 
Bruno  (d.  966)  with  the  church  of  St.  Pantaleon ,  Heribert  (d.  1021)  with 

Baepeksr's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  3 


34     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  Museum. 

the  church  of  the  Apostles ,  and  Anno  (d.  1075)  with  the  church  of  8t. 
Gereon.  Next  to  these  is  the  Franconian  queen  Plectrudis  (8th  cent.) 
with  the  plan  of  8t.  Maria  im  Capitol.  Below ,  in  the  adjoining  scenes, 
is  the  legend  of  Cologne:  St.  Maternus,  the  first  bishop,  baptising  con- 
verts in  the  Rhine,  St.  Gereon  with  his  companions,  St.  Ursula  and  her 
virgin  followers,  and  St.  Hermann  Joseph  in  St.  Maria  im  Capitol.  — 
Opposite,  on  the  wall  to  the  right,  is  —  2.  The  Mediaeval  Period :  in  the 
centre  Albertus  Magnus ,  the  learned  theologian  of  Cologne,  with  his  pu- 
pils, including  Thomas  Aquinas  and  Duns  Scotus;  beyond  these  are 
mystics,  humanists,  and  artists.  On  the  other  side,  to  the  rieht  of  Albertus, 
is  Conrad  of  Hochstaden  (p.  25),  to  whom  the  architect  of  the  cathedral  sub- 
mits a  plan  of  the  edifice  •,  farther  on,  Meister  Wilhelm  of  Cologne  and  Meister 
Stephan  *,  then  the  two  burgomasters  welcoming  a  vessel  of  the  Hanseatic 
League.  In  the  subordinate  scenes,  the  popular  Festival  of  St.  John 
(p.  37),  the  arrival  of  the  relics  of  the  Magi,  a  tournament,  and  the 
industrial  activity  of  Cologne.  —  On  the  central  wall,  to  the  left  of  the 
door :  3.  Renaissance  and  Modem  Period :  to  the  left,  Rubens  receiving  the 
order  for  the  altar-piece  of  St.  Peter's  church  (p.  39);  Winckelmann 
studying  the  Laocoon;  in  the  centre  the  brothers  Boisseree  (p.  74)  and 
Friedrich  von  Schlegel  ;  to  the  right,  Wallraf  and  Richartz,  the  founders  of 
the  museum.  Below,  the  Carnival  of  Cologne.  —  To  the  right  of  the  door  : 
4.  Continuation  of  the  Cathedral:  completion  of  the  8.  portal  in  presence  of 
Frederick  William  IV. ,  the  architect  Zwirner ,  and  the  archbishop  Jo- 
hannes ▼.  Geissel.  Below,  the  society  for  advancing  the  building  opera- 
tions ,  and  the  vocal  societies  of  Cologne.  —  Above  the  central  entrance 
door,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  staircase ,  are  the  armorial  bearings  of 
Cologne,  with  Marsilius,  the  hero  of  Cologne,  and  Agrippina,  the  Roman 
empress.  —  From  the  highest  landing  we  enter  the  rooms  of  the  — 

Upper  Floor.  In  a  straight  direction  is  the  Antechamber  :  right,  *962  A. 
Camphausen,  King  William  saluted  by  his  troops  after  the  battle  of  Sedan, 
with  Bismarck,  Moltke,  and  Roon  among  his  retinue;  left,  965.  Simon  Meis- 
ter, Fred.  William  IV.  on  horseback.  —  Busts  of  Michael  Angelo  by 
C.  Mohr,  Rubens  by  Fr.  Meynen,  Wolfgang  Miiller  by  Hof meister ,  the 
brothers  Boissere'e  and  Alex,  von  Humboldt  by  Ranch. 

Rooms  to  the  Right  of  the  antechamber.  Collection  of  Modern  Paint- 
ings. Room  I.  *0vstav  Rtchtfj  qn<M»n  f  ,mii«A  of  Prussia,  painted  in  1879 
aud  presented  to  the  Museum  by  Herr  Joest ;  Oron'evald,  Scene  from  4Wie- 
land  the  Smith1 ;  Bromeis,  Scene  in  the  Roman  Campagna.  —  Corner  Room. 
963.  Kdhler,  Miriam's  song  of  praise  after  the  passage  of  the  Red  Sea  by 
the  Israelites;  965b.  Schwerdgeburth,  Promenaders  outside  the  gate;  976. 
J.  Schroder,  Portrait  of  himself;  967.  Salentin,  Pilgrims  at  a  medicinal 
spring;  Roybet,  Sportsmen;  C.  GUnther,  Theologians  disputing;  Portraits 
of  Goethe  by  Robe  and  Kotbe;  Ad.  Sehr&dter,  Don  Quixote;  942.  O.  Schick, 
Eve;  *959.  J.  W.  Schirmer,  Italian  landscape;  984.  C.  L.  F.  Becker,  Hut- 
ten  crowned  with  laurels;  970a.  Theod.  Mintrop,  'Maiwein',  with  genii; 
951.  C.  Begas,  Parents  of  the  artist.  —  A  Cabinet  with  modern  engrav- 
ings (adjoining  which  are  the  exhibition  rooms  of  the  Kolner  Kunst- 
verein,  or  art-union)  leads  to  —  Room  III.  (the  last),  the  principal  saloon 
of  the  modern  masters,  £.  of  the  staircase.  No.  963.  Lessing,  Landscape ; 
971  a.  A.  Achenbach,  Starting  of  a  tug-steamer;  980.  Bdttcher,  Summer  night 
on  the  Rhine;  974.  /.  Schroder,  Cromwell  at  the  death-bed  of  his  daughter; 
990.  Piloty,  Galileo  in  prison ;  964.  Jordan,  Soup  day ;  972.  Zimmermann,  Scour- 
ing day;  952a.  C.  Rottmann,  Cefalu;  559a.  W.  Wider,  Tombola  players  in 
Trastevere  (Rome) ;  *966.  Bendemann,  Exiled  Jews ;  981.  W.  Camphausen, 
Prince  Eugene  at  the  battle  of  Belgrade;  994  A.  StUckelberg ,  The  rustic 
Romeo  and  Juliet  (from  a  tale  by  Keller);  991.  0.  Achenbach,  Castel  Gan- 
dolfo;  970.  Oeselschap,  Soiree  musicale;  992.  Vautier,  Funeral  feast;  986. 
Correns,  Portrait  of  Zwirner,  the  architect. 

Rooms  to  the  Left.  Room  I.  Works  of  the  early  Franconian,  Saxon, 
and  Swabian  Schools  :  522.  A.  DUrer,  Piper  and  drummer;  Cranoch  the 
Elder,  534.  Mary  Magdalene,  535.  Jesus  as  a  boy.  551-553.  Joachim  Patinir, 
Portraits.  —  Room  II.,  beginning  to  the  right  of  the  entrance:  652 A. 
Adrian  Brouwer,  Old  peasant ;  *80Q  A.  Franc.  Francia,  Madonna  and  Child, 


Hochstrasse.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     35 

an  admirable  work. presented  by  Boisseree ;  Franc,  de  Herr era,  Peter's  de- 
nial ;  Jan  ran  der  Kopelle,  Sea-piece ;  Kupctzki,  Portrait ;  If.  Maas,  Portrait; 
817.  Tintoretto,  Ovid  and  Corinna;  654 A.  Carl  Fabritiut  (pupil  of  Rem- 
brandt), Portrait-  652c.  J.  Gerritz  Cuyp,  Portrait;  901.  Ph.  de  Champaign*, 
Portrait  of  Jabach,  the  wealthy  patron  of  art  ;  *t>18.  Rubens,  Holy  Family 
(probably  by  pupils);  624.  Van  Dpck,  Portrait  of  Jabach;  941.  David,  Peri- 
cles with  the  body  of  his  son  Paralus;  632.  Q.  Honthorst,  Holy  Family; 
617.  Rubens,  St.  Francis  receiving  the  stigmata;  801.  Inn.  da  Imola,  Ma- 
donna; 802.  Giac.  Francia,  The  Apostle  Andrew;  812.  813.  P.  Veronese, 
Heads  a*  studies;  633.  J  or  da  ens,  Prometheus.  634  A.  Jordatns,  Portrait; 
G.  van  den  Eeckhout,  Esther  and  Haman;  /.  van  der  Meer,  Landscape; 
Janson  van  Keulen,  Portraits ;  Ph.  de  Koninck,  Landscape.  —  The  following 
rooms  contain  numerous  mediocre  works  by  Italian  and  French  masters. 

At  the  back  of  the  Museum  is  the  Chureh  of  the  Minorites 
(PI.  56 ;  E,  4),  an  early-Gothic  building  of  simple  but  handsome  pro- 
portions, probably  commenced  in  1220,  but  not  completed  till  forty 
years  later,  and  recently  restored  at  the  cost  of  the  lateHerrRichartz 
(p.  32).  It  is  65  yds.  in  length ;  the  nave  is  67  ft.  high  and  24  yds. 
broad.  The  large  window  above  the  portal  in  the  principal  facade  and 
the  elegant  spire  (of  last  century),  restored  in  the  style  of  the  original, 
are  specially  striking.  The  fine  sacristy  has  a  round  pillar  in  the 
centre.  The  church  contains  the  tombstone  of  the  celebrated  theolo- 
gical disputant  Duns  Seotus  (d.  1309),  with  the  inscription  :  Scotia 
me  genuit,  Anglia  me  suscepit,  Gallia  me  docuit,  Colonia  me  tenet. 

In  the  Appellhofs-Platz,  opposite  the  Comodien-Str. ,  is  the  Appell- 
hofgebdude,  or  Court  of  Justice  (PI.  1 ;  E,  3) ,  an  unattractive  mo- 
dern building.  Farther  on,  in  the  Zeughaus-Str.,  on  the  left,  is  the 
Arsenal  (PI.  33 ;  E,  3)  with  the  Guard-House,  erected  in  1601 ;  on 
the  right  are  the  palatial  Government  Buildings  (PI.  22 ;  E,  F,  3), 
erected  in  1830.  Farther  W.  in  the  same  direction,  at  the  corner  of 
the  Apern  -  Str. ,  is  the  Romerthurm  (PI.  24 ;  E,  3) ,  an  ancient 
round  tower  inlaid  with  stones  of  different  colour.  It  once  formed  an 
angle  of  the  ancient  Roman  town,  considerable  fragments  of  the  walls 
of  which  still  exist  in  the  vicinity  (on  the  'Burgmauer'),  and  is  un- 
doubtedly to  a  great  extent  of  Roman  origin,  but  the  upper  part  is 
modern.  The  Steinfeldergasse  leads  hence  (leaving  the  new  Gym- 
nasial  or  Jesuit  Library  to  the  left)  to  St.  Gereonst  see  p.  41. 

The  Synagogue  (PI.  63 ;  E,  4),  in  the  Glockengasse ,  an  edifice 
in  the  Moorish  style,  designed  by  Zwirner,  and  built  in  1859-61  at 
the  expense  of  the  banker  Oppenheim,  is  covered  with  a  handsome 
gilded  dome.  —  Farther  up  the  same  street  is  the  new  Theatre 
(PI.  29  ;  E,  3),  designed  by  Raschdorff,  and  completed  in  1872. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Museum  ,  at  the  small  Wallrafs- 
Platz,  begins  the  narrow  Hochstraase  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  the  busiest  -V 
street  in  Cologne,  which  with  its  prolongations  (Marzellen-Str.  and 
Eigelstein  to  the  N.,  Hochpforte  and  Severins-Str.  to  the  S.)  inter- 
sects the  entire  city  from  N.  to  S.  The  street  is  gradually  being 
widened  by  the  erection  of  all  new  buildings  farther  back  than  the 
old  ones.  To  the  right,  in  the  centre  of  the  Hochstrasse,  is  the 
Konig in- Augusta-Passage  (PI.  E,  4),  an  arcade  with  shops. 
3* 


36     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  Rathhaus. 

Between  the  Hochstrasse  and  the  Rhine  are  situated  several 
important  buildings,  not  far  from  each  other. 

The*Bathhaus(Pl.  21;E,5),  an  interesting  structure,  built  in  dif- 
ferent centuries  and  recently  restored ,  stands  on  the  substructions 
of  a  Roman  stronghold  (probably  the  Praetorium),  of  the  arches  of 
which  some  remains  are  still  visible  in  the  cellar.  The  oldest  part 
of  the  present  building  (14th  cent.)  is  the  central  portion  (with  the 
Hansa-Saal),  looking  towards  the  Rathhaus-Platz.  In  1569-71  an 
elegant  portico  in  the  Renaissance  style  was  built  in  front  of  this, 
from  the  plans  of  Wilhelm  Vernickel  (whose  designs ,  along  with 
those  of  his  competitors,  are  still  preserved  in  the  municipal  ar- 
chives), bearing  long  Latin  inscriptions  and  reliefs  alluding  to  the 
tradition  of  Burgomaster  Gryn's  light  with  the  lion  (see  below).  The 
handsome,  five-storied  Rathhausthurm,  formerly  adorned  with  num- 
erous statuettes,  was  built  in  1407-14,  from  the  proceeds  of  the 
fines  imposed  upon  noble  families  in  1396.  —  The  E.  portions  of 
the  structure,  facing  the  Altenmarkt,  were  erected  in  1549-50  ;■  the 
facade,  richly  ornamented  with  reliefs  and  statues,  was  altered  in 
1591,  but  restored  by  Raschdorff  in  the  original  style  in  1870. 

The  L&wenhof,  built  by  Lorenz  in  1540  in  the  Renaissance  style,  then 
newly  introduced  into  Germany,  is  so  named  in  reference  to  the  tradition 
(above  alluded  to)  that  Archbishop  Engelbert  sought  the  life  of  Burgo- 
master Gryn,  and  threw  the  obnoxious  citizen  into  a  lion's  den  in  his  palace, 
from  which,  however,  his  intended  victim  contrived  to  escape  unhurt. 

The  ^Hansa-Saal,  or  Hanseatic  Hall  (30  yds.  long,  8  yds.  wide.  32  ft. 
high),  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Bathhaus,  recently  restored,  is  said  to  be 
that  in  which  the  first  general  meeting  of  the  League  took  place  on  19th 
Nov.,  1367.  The  S.  wall  is  entirely  occupied  by  nine  rich  canopies,  with 
large  figures  vigorously  executed  in  stone,  representing  heathen,  Jewish,  and 
Christian  heroes  (Hector,  Alexander  the  Great,  Ceesar;  Joshua,  David,  Judas 
Maccabseus;  Charlemagne,  King  Arthur,  Godfrey  de  Bouillon);  above 
these ,  but  smaller ,  Charles  IV. ,  who  fortified  the  town  and  presented  it 
with  the  privileges  of  a  market,  as  the  figures  on  the  right  and  left  indicate. 
In  the  windows  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  different  imperial  fami- 
lies of  Germany,  on  the  long  wall  those  of  forty-five  patrician  families  of 
Cologne,  on  the  ceiling  those  of  the  burgomasters  of  Cologne,  from  1346 
to  the  downfall  of  the  independence  of  the  city.  The  two  upper  series 
are  the  arms  of  the  twenty-two  guilds.  —  The  principal  apartment  of  the 
portion  of  the  Bathhaus  which  was  erected  in  1650  (towards  the  Alten- 
markt) is  the  room  called  the  '-MuscheV  (shell),  completed  in  1761.  The 
Eape&try,  with  which  it  is  adorned,  was  executed  by  Vos  from  drawings  by 
Wouverman,  and  was  purchased  by  the  Town  Council  from  the  heirs  of 
Elector  Clement  Augustus.  —  The  former  Raths-Saal  is  in  the  tower.  The 
fine  carved  door  was  executed  by  Melchior  Reidt  in  1603;  to  the  same 
period  belong  the  stucco  ceiling ,  ornamented  with  medallions  of  the 
emperors,  and  the  door  leading  from  the  Arsenal  into  the  commission  room. 

In  the  Rathhaus-Platz,  opposite  the  Rathhaus,  is  the  late-Gothic 
Chapel  of  the  Rathhaus  (now  used  by  an  Old  Catholic  congre- 
gation), which  formerly  contained  the  Dombild  (p.  30),  and  was 
consecrated  in  1426.  The  spire  is  of  graceful  proportions ;  the  sa- 
cristy dates  from  1474.  — The  handsome  new  Civic  Library  (PI.  2), 
in  the  Portalsgasse,  was  erected  by  Hr.  "Weyer  in  the  style  of  the 
Renaissance.  —  A  monument  to  Field-Marshal  Molikt  was  erected 
"*n  the  adjacent  Laurenz-Platz  in  1881. 


Qurzehiek.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     37 

The  old  Scotch  Church  of  *Groa»8t.  Martin  (PI.  54;  E,  5),  form- 
erly situated  on  an  island  in  the  Rhine ,  dates  originally  -from  the 
Merovingian  period.  The  existing  church,  built  by  Abbot  Adelhard, 
after  the  repeated  destruction  of  previous  edifices,  was  consecrated 
by  Archbishop  Philip  in  1172.  The  massive  £.  portion ,  with  its 
imposing  tower  (270  ft.  high)  surrounded  by  four  corner-turrets, 
seems  to  have  been  constructed  in  the  13th  century,  and  was 
restored  in  1437  and  1454-99.  (The  S.W.  corner-turret  fell  in 
1526,  and  was  not  restored  till  1870.)  Before  the  handsome, 
pointed  W.  portal  stood  a  porch  covered  with  groined  vaulting, 
probably  dating  from  the  14th  century ,  one  half  of  which  was 
removed  at  the  last  restoration. 

In  the  Intkkioe,  in  the  corner  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  is  a  marble 
font,  adorned  with  lions'  heads  and  foliage,  said  to  have  been  presented 
by  Pope  Leo  III.  in  806.  On  the  upper  side-altars  are  six  modern  statues 
by  Hoffmann  of  Rome ,  on  the  left  6S.  Martinns,  Eliphius ,  and  Brigitta, 
on  the  right  the  Virgin  with  angels.  The  N.  aisle  contains  a  fine  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  by  Du  Bois,  and  Christ  before  Annas,  by  Bonthorst. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Rathhaus  is  the  *Gursenich  (PI.  10 ;  D,  5),  with 
its  pinnacles  and  turrets,  built  in  1441-52  at  a  cost  of  80,000  florins, 
to  serve  as  a  'Herren  Tanzhaus'  and  banquet-saloon  on  occasions 
when  the  Town  Council  desired  to  entertain  distinguished  guests 
with  a  magnificence  worthy  of  the  city.  Besides  the  'Gurzenich' 
property  the  Council  purchased  several  other  pieces  of  ground  to 
form  a  site  for  this  imposing  building.  The  architect  was  Johann 
vonBuren.  The  first  grand  festival  was  held  here  in  1475  in  honour 
of  Emperor  Frederick  III.  Other  festivals  took  place  in  1486,  1505, 
1521,  and  on  several  occasions  in  the  16th  century.  In  the  17th 
and  18th  centuries  the  large  saloon  fell  into  decay,  and  was  used  as 
a  magazine  till  1857,  when,  after  undergoing  a  thorough  renovation 
at  the  hands  of  Jul.  Raschdorff ,  it  was  restored  to  its  original  uses. 
This  is  the  finest  of  the  ancient  secular  edifices  of  Cologne. 

Above  the  £.  gateways  are  statues  of  Agrippa  and  Marsilius,  the 
founder  and  the  defender  of  Cologne  in  the  Roman  period,  executed  by  Mohr, 
painted  by  Kleinertz  in  the  ancient  style,  and  erected  in  1859  in  place  of 
the  old  ones,  which  had  become  injured  by  exposure  to  the  weather. 

Interior  (adm.  50  pf.).  On  the  ground-floor  is  the  former  magazine, 
converted  by  Herr  Weyer  in  1875  into  a  fine  Exchange  Hall.  —  On  the 
first  floor  is  the  spacious  *Fkst-Saal  (58  yds.  long,  24  broad),  borne  by 
twenty-two  richly  carved  wooden  columns,  with  a  gallery.  The  modern 
stained-glass  windows  represent  the  armorial  bearings  of  Julich ,  Cleve, 
Berg ,  and  Mark ,  the  mediaeval  allies  of  Cologne ,  with  8t.  Peter  as  the 
patron  saint  of  the  city,  two  Imperial  eagles,  the  arms  of  Cologne  itself, 
those  of  six  burgomasters  of  the  period  when  the  building  was  first  erected, 
and  those  of  the  twenty-two  guilds.  The  two  large  Chimney  Pieces  of  the 
15th  century,  richly  carved  with  scenes  from  the  early  history  of  the 
town,  are  worthy  of  inspection.  —  The  Antechamber  ('Kleine  Giirzenich' 
or  'Isabellen-Saal')  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  Schmitz  of  Diissel- 
dorf,  representing  the  entry  of  the  Empress  Isabella  (wife  of  Frederick  II.), 
the  legend  of  the  Cologne  wood-cutting  expedition  (viz.  that  Uarsilius 
saved  the  town  from  a  beleaguering  enemy  by  sending  out  armed  women 
against  them  on  the  pretext  of  felling  wood),  and  the  Festival  of  St.  John 
(a  symbolical  washing  away  of  the  evil  of  the  year  in  the  Rhine,  men- 
tioned by  Petrarch,  who  visited  Cologne   in  1333).  -  Concerts,  see  p.  23. 


38     Route  3. 


COLOGNE.        St.  Maria  im  Capitol. 


In  the  Heumabkt  (PI.  D,  5),  to  the  E.  of  the  Giirzenich,  rises 
the  *Monument  of  Frederick  William  HI.,  erected  in  1878  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Rhenish  provinces.  It  consists  of  a  colos- 
sal equestrian  statue  of  the  king  on  a  lofty  pedestal ,  surround- 
ed by  statues  of  the  principal  statesmen  and  warriors  who  co- 
operated with  him  in  raising  Prussia  to  the  rank  of  a  first- 
class  power  and  in  freeing  the  Rhenish  provinces  from  French 
domination  (Blucher,  Stein,  Arndt,  Humboldt,  etc.).  The  reliefs 
on  the  sides  indicate  the  progress  of  the  Rhenish  provinces  in 
science,  art,  commerce,  and  manufactures.  The  chief  figures  and 
the  statues  on  one  side  are  by  Gustavus  Blaser  (1813-1874),  those 
at  the  front  and  back  by  Drake ,  the  rest  by  Schweinitz,  Tondeur, 
and  Buchting.  The  pedestal  was  designed  by  Schievelbein  (d.  1867). 
—  Turning  to  the  right  at  the  S.  end  of  theHeumarkt,  we  reach  — 
The  Church  of  *St.  Maria  im  Capitol  {Zint  Mdrjen  in  local  speech ; 
PI.  50),  consecrated  in  1049  by  Pope  Leo  IX.,  a  cruciform  edifice 
in  the  Romanesque  style,  constructed  on  an  imposing  and  somewhat 
peculiar  plan.  The  choir  and  transept  (apparently  of  the  12th 
century)  terminate  in  semicircular  apses  with  an  ambulatory 
round  each,  and  impart  to  the  end  of  the  building  the  trefoil  shape, 
of  which  this  is  the  earliest  example  at  Cologne.  The  vaulting  of 
the  nave  dates  from  1250.  The  church  owes  its  name  to  the  tradi- 
tion that  this  site  was  once  occupied  by  the  Roman  Capitol ,  which 
was  succeeded  by  the  palace  of  the  Franconian  kings.  The  original 
edifice,  of  which  no  remains  exist,  is  said  to  have  been  built  by 
Plectrudis,  wife  of  Pepin  of  He*ristal,  and  mother  of  Charles  Martel. 

The  "Interior  has 
been  decorated  with 
modern  frescoes,  begun 
by  Steinle  (paintings  in 
the  apse)  and  E.  Qatzke> 
and  completed  by  Ooeb- 
bels  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Essenwein  of 
Nuremberg.  Several  of 
these  are  in  the  old 
Romanesque  style,  and 
therefore  somewhat  un- 
pleasing  to  modern  taste. 
The  figures  are  from 
drawings  by  Klein  of 
Vienna.  —  In  the  W. 
vestibule  and  under  the 
organ  -  loft  are  some 
tomb  -  stones  belonging 
to  the  Merovingian  and 
Garlovingian  periods. 
The  door  which  leads 
into  the  apse  of  the  N. 
transept,  decorated  with 
very  prominent  reliefs, 
dates  from  the  foundation  of  the  church.  The  S.  (Hardenrath's)  chapel  (of 
1465)  contains  pictures  of  the  School  o/Meisler  Stephan,  and  fine  stained  glass. 
The  richly  sculptured  organ-loft  (originally  a  screen)  of  1523,  the  font  of 


St.  George.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     39 

1594,  and  a  late-Romanesque  portable  altar  are  well  worthy  of  inspection.  — 
The  fine  Crypt,  with  its  nave  and  aisles,  its  quadrangular  chapels,  and 
its  side-chambers ,  corresponds  with  the  form  of  the  choir.  It  contains 
the  tomb  of  Plectrudis,  and  some  ancient  mural  paintings. 

To  the  right,  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  Templars'  Lodge  (PI.  28; 
D,  5),  Rheingasse  No.  8,  a  handsome  Romanesque  edifice ,  with 
round-arched  windows,  niches,  and  corbie-stepped  gables,  dating 
from  the  12th  or  the  beginning  of  the  13th  century.  It  was  the  fa- 
mily residence  of  the  'Overstolzen',  and  was  purchased  by  the  town 
in  1836  and  judiciously  restored.  It  is  now  used  as  a  Baptist  place 
of  worship. 

The  Prot.  Trinity  Church  (PI.  44 ;  0,  D,  5),  in  the  early  Christian 
basilica  style,  designed  by  Stuler,  was  consecrated  in  1860. 

St.  George  (PI.  45;  C,  4),  consecrated  in  1067,  was  originally 
a  plain  columnar  basilica,  with  a  crypt  of  the  same  character  (now 
restored).  The  porch  dates  from  1536.  The  objects  of  greatest  in- 
terest are  a  Romanesque  crucifix  of  wood  ,  remains  of  Romanesque 
and  Gothic  mural  paintings  and  stained  glass,  and  a  tomb  of  1545. 

—  Adjacent,  No.  225  Severin-Str.,  is  the  Fricdrich-Wilhclm  Gym- 
nasium,  a  handsome  modern  Renaissance  edifice. 

St.  Severin's  (PI.  60 ;  A,  5),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  stands 
upon  the  site  of  a  Christian  Church  built  as  early  as  the  4th  cen- 
tury, and  has  been  often  destroyed.  The  present  church  was  con- 
secrated in  1237  and  has  recently  been  thoroughly  restored.  The 
effective  quadrangular  tower  was  erected  in  1393-1411 ;  the  nave 
was  furnished  with  new  vaulting  in  1479 ;  the  baptismal  chapel, 
adorned  with  stained  glass,  dates  from  1505. 

The  sarcophagus  of  St.  Severin  with  a  roof-shaped  lid ,  the  excellent 
mountings  of  a  door  of  the  12th  century ,  a  copper-gilt  reading-desk  in 
the  form  of  an  eagle ,  the  Gothic  choir-stalls ,  and  some  old  mural  and 
easel  paintings  will  repay  inspection. 

In  the  Augustiner-Platz,  in  front  of  the  Casino  (PI.  4;  D.4V 
rises  a  Statue  of  Prince  Bismarck,  by  Schaper,  unveiled  in  1879. 

Farther  to  -the  S.,  in  the  Sternengasse  (No.  10,  right  side)  is  a 
handsome  house  in  which  Rubens  is  erroneously  said  to  have  been 
born  (comp.  p.  52).  The  house  bears  an  inscription  and  a  relief 
above  the  door  in  memory  of  the  illustrious  master ;  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  is  an  Inscription  recording  (correctly)  that  Marie  de 
Mtdicis,  widow  of  Henri  IV.  of  France,  died  here  in  exile  in  1642. 

—  The  house  No.  23-25  Sternengasse  is  that  of  the  well-known 
patron  of  art,  Eberhard  v.  Jabaeh,  who  died  in  1636. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  same  line  of  streets,  we  reach  the  church 
of  St.  Peter  (PI.  58 ;  entrance  in  the  Sternengasse),  of  the  16th 
century.      # 

Over  the  High  Altar  is  the  *  Crucifixion"of  St.  Peter,  by  Rubens,  re- 
covered from  Paris  in  1814.  This  fine  picture,  one  of  the  most  vigorous 
works  of  the  master,  but  repellent  owing  to  its  startling  fidelity  to  na- 
ture, was  painted  by  order  of  the  Jabaeh  family  in  memory  of  Herr 
Eberhard  Jabaeh  (see  above).  It  is  shown  by  the  sexton  for  the  some- 
what exorbitant  fee  of  li/z  m.  Behind  the  altar  reposes  Johann  Rubens, 
the  father  of  the  painter  (see  p.  52).  —  A  late-Gothic  carved  altar  (Bear- 


40    Route  3.  COLOGNE.  .  Hospital. 

ing  of  the  Gross,  Crucifixion,  Descent  from  the  Gross),  with  fine  pictures 
on  the  wings ,  is  exhibited  for  an  additional  fee  of  75  pf.  —  The  brazen 
font,  surmounted  by  an  equestrian  figure,  dates  from  1569. 

The  adjoining  Church  of  St.  Csecilia  fPl.  38 ;  D,  3,  4),  a  very 
ancient  building,  was  restored  as  early  as  930-41,  and  again  in  the 
12th  century,  on  which  occasion  parts  of  the  edifice  of  the  10th  cen- 
tury appear  to  have  been  retained.  It  contains  a  curious  crypt, 
which  is  wrongly  described  as  a  remnant  of  the  oldest  episcopal 
church  built  by  St.  Maternus.  The  relief  above  the  arch  of  the  door 
is  worth  inspection. 

Opposite  is  the  WoUeenburg  (PI.  32 ;  D,  4),  built  in  the  style  of 
the  Gtirzenich ,  the  meeting  -  place  of  the  Manner  -  Oesangverein 
(p.  23). 

At  the  back  of  the  two  churches  last  described  is  situated  the 
spacious  Hospital  (PI.  3 ;  D,  3),  erected  in  1846.  It  may  be  in- 
spected in  the  afternoon;  visitors,  on  entering  their  names  in  a 
book,  usually  contribute  to  the  funds  (small  fee  to  the  attendant). 

In  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Nbumahkt(P1.  D,  3),  a  square  planted 
with  trees  (military  parade  at  noon) ,  the  largest  in  Cologne ,  rises 
the  *  Apostles*  Church  (PI.  37 ;  D,  2),  a  remarkably  handsome  ba- 
silica with  aisles  and  double  transept.  Over  the  E.  point  of  inter- 
section rises  a  dome  flanked  with  two  slender  corner-towers ,  and 
over  the  W.  intersection  a  square  tower.  The  picturesque  choir  and 
the  arms  of  the  E.  transept  terminate  in  very  spacious  rounded  ap- 
ses, adorned  with  two  series  of  niches  and  a  miniature  gallery  above 
them.  The  church,  begun  about  the  year  1200,  on  the  site  of  an 
older  structure  of  the  11th  century,  which  had  been  destroyed  by 
fire ,  was  completed  about  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century  and 
is  now  undergoing  restoration. 

When  the  plague  raged  at  Cologne  in  1357,  Eichmodis  yon  Lyskirch- 
en,  wife  of  the  knight  Mengis  yon  Adocht ,  was  attacked  by  the  malady, 
and  having  fallen  into  a  deathlike  swoon,  was  interred  in  the  Apostles' 
Church.  Being  awakened  from  her  trance  by  a  thievish  gravedigger  in 
his  attempts  to  abstract  her  ring,  she  returned  to*  the  house  of 
her  husband,  who  imagining  he  beheld  an  apparition,  declared  he  would 
sooner  believe  that  his  horses  could  ascend  to  the  loft  of  his  house  than 
that  his  departed  spouse  should  return  in  proprid  pertond.  Scarcely  had 
the  words  escaped  his  lips,  says  the  legend,  than  horses'  hoofs  were  heard 
mounting  the  stairs,  and  their  heads  were  speedily  seen  looking  out  of  a 
window  in  the  upper  story  of  the  house.  The  lady  recovered,  and  lived 
for  many  years  afterwards.  Two  horses'  heads,  affixed  to  the  upper  story 
of  the  house  with  the  tower  on  the  K.  side  of  the  Keumarkt  (No.  10),  are 
said  to  have  been  placed  there  in  commemoration  of  the  miraculous 
event,  but  probably  formed  part  of  the  armorial  bearings  of  Kicasius  von 
Haquenay,  who  built  the  house. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Apostles'  Church  are  the  Apostel-Qymnasium,  a 
fine  modern  brick  structure,  by  Raschdorff,  and  the  handsome  Resi- 
dence of  the  Commandant  (PI.  5  j  D,  2). 

The  Mauritiuakirche  (PI.  65;  C,  2)  in  the  Mauritius-Steinweg, 
built  by  Vincent  Statz ,  in  1861-65 ,  is  a  Gothic  edifice ,  with  a 
tower  230  ft.  in  height ;  the  interior  contains  a  'pieta'  by  Hoffmann. 
—  To  the  W.  of  it  the  Arndt-Strasse  leads  to  the  Qewerbe-Schule,  or 


St.  Gereon. 


COLOGNE. 


3.  Route.     41 


industrial  school,  built  by  Raschdorff,  behind  which  is  situated  the 
Tumhalle  (gymnastic  hall). 

The  Church  of  St.  Pantaloon  (PL  57 ;  now  a  military  church, 
and  also  used  by  the  Old  Catholics)  was  constructed  on  the  site  of 
an  older  building  in  964-980.  The  materials  for  this  purpose  are 
said  to  have  been  taken  by  Archbishop  Bruno  (d.  965),  brother  of 
Emperor  Otho  the  Great ,  from  the  remains  of  Constantino's  bridge 
(see  p.  25).  The  present  building,  recently  restored,  dates  from  the 
12th  and  13th  centuries,  and  partly  also  from  the  16th ;  but  the 
substructure  of  the  tower  in  the  centre ,  with  its  two-storied  ad- 
ditions, seems  to  belong  entirely  to  the  10th  century.  Archbishop 
Bruno  and  the  Empress  Theophano  (d.  999)  are  buried  in  the 
church.  There  are  some  remains  of  Romanesque  mural  paintings 
in  a  side  chapel. 

In  the  Grosse  Griechenmarkt ,  in  the  neighbourhood,  is  the 
large  reservoir  of  the  Waterworks. 

On  the  way  from  the  Apostles'  Church  to  St.  Gereon's  we  pass 
the  Roman  Tower,  mentioned  at  p.  35. 

The  Church  of  *St.  Gereon  (PI.  46  ;  F,  2),  dedicated  to  the  318 
martyrs  of  the  Theban  legion,  with  their  captain  Gereon,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  perished  here 
in  286  during  the  persecution  of  the 
Christians  under  Diocletian,  is  an 
edifice  of  very  peculiar  style.  The 
long  Romanesque  choir  is  adjoined 
by  a  decagonal  nave  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  quadrangular  vestibule. 
The  original  structure,  circular  in 
form,  traces  of  the  undoubted  Roman 
origin  of  which  are  still  extant,  is 
said  to  have  been  erected  by  the 
empress  Helena,  mother  of  Constan- 
tine  the  Great.  Archbishop  Anno  (d. 
1075)  added  the  choir  with  its  two 
square  towers,  and  the  spacious  crypt. 
In  1219-27  the  round  part  of  the 
church,  having  become  dilapidated, 
was  converted  into  the  present  de- 
cagonal nave,  153  ft.  in  height,  20 
yds.  in  length ,  and  18  in  breadth, 
covered  with  groined  vaulting;  the 
eight  shorter  sides  are  adjoined  by 
large  round  niches.  Other  alterations 
took  place  in  the  14th  and  15th  cent. , 
to  which  period  belongs  the  vaulting  of  the  choir  and  of  the  vesti- 
bule. The  disfiguring  additions  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent,  have 
recently  been  removed.  The  sacristan,  who  is  generally  to  be  found 


42     Route  3.  COLOGNE.  St.  Ursula. 

in  the  church  (visitors  knock),  lives  at  the  Gereonsdriesch  17,  a 
Tlatz'  planted  with  trees  (fee  for  1-2  persons  1  m. ;  for  more, 
50  pf.  each). 

The  Vestibule  contains  tombstones  from  the  former  cloisters  (com p. 
p.  xxv). 

The  "Interior,  now  that  the  central  altar  added  in  the  17th  cent,  has 
been  removed,  presents  its  original  singular  appearance.  In  small  chapels 
in  the  recesses  of  the  nave ,  above  which  runs  a  gallery  borne  by  small 
columns,  are  seen  the  stone  sarcophagi  of  the  martyrs,  half  bnilt  into 
the  walls.  Their  skulls  are  arranged  under  gilded  arabesques  along  the 
sides  of  the  Choir,  to  which  nineteen  steps  ascend.  The  handsome  carved 
choir-stalls  date  from  the  15th  century.  The  £.  end  of  the  choir  is  reached 
by  seven  steps  more.  —  The  Sacristy,  in  the  purest  Gothic  style,  dating 
from  1316,  containing  fine  Gothic  stained  glass,  and  the  octagonal  Bap- 
tistery, with  ancient  mural  paintings,  are  also  worthy  of  note. 

The  Crypt  below  the  choir,  with  its  three  aisles  borne  by  eighteen 
columns,  dating  principally,  as  already  mentioned,  from  the  11th  cent., 
contains  an  interesting  specimen  of  the  art  of  that  period :  viz.  a  "Mo- 
saic Pavement,  the  sections  of  which  represent  scenes  from  the  lives  of 
David  and  Samson  (not  Joshua  and  Joseph  as  sometimes  described),  and 
the  signs  of  the  Zodiac.  It  was,  perhaps ,  executed  by  Italian  workmen, 
as  similar  scenes  are  very  common  in  Italian  churches.  The  fragments, 
which  had  got  into  disorder,  were  successfully  restored  and  supplemented 
by  the  painter  Avenarius  in  1869-71. 

About  a  hundred  paces  to  the  £.  of  the  church,  in  the  Gereons- 
Strasse ,  which  is  planted  with  trees,  is  situated  the  Archiepiscopal 
Palace  (PI.  6 ;  F,  3),  in  front  of  which  rises  the  MariensauU ,  a 
monument  designed  by  V.  Statz,  and  erected  in  1858  to  commemorate 
the  promulgation  of  the  new  doctrine  of  the  immaculate  conception 
of  the  Virgin. 

Farther  N.,  in  the  Klingelputz,  is  the  Arresthaus  (PL  G,  3),  a 
prison  constructed  in  1838  in  a  radiating  form. 

St.  Ursula  (PI.  61 ;  G,  4),  is  situated  on  the  site  of  a  church  of 
the  5th  century,  but  has  undergone  much  alteration.  The  Gothic 
portal  is  noteworthy. 

The  N.  aisle,  near  the  choir  contains  a  monument,  by  Johann  Lent, 
erected  in  1658  to  St.  Ursula,  an  English  princess,  who,  according  to  the 
legend,  when  on  her  return  from  apilgrimage  to  Borne,  was  barbarously 
murdered  at  Cologne  with  her  11,000  virgin  attendants.  The  figure  is  in 
alabaster,  with  a  dove  at  the  feet.  The  bones  of  these  virgin  martyrs 
are  preserved  in  cases,  placed  round  the  church.  The  legend  is  also  il- 
lustrated by  a  series  of  old  paintings,  frequently  retouched ,  on  the  wall 
beginning  to  the  right  of  the  entrance.  Ten  old  pictures  of  the  Apos- 
tles, to  the  left  of  the  S.  entrance ,  are  painted  on  slabs  of  slate ,  one  of 
them  bearing  the  date  1224.  Under  the  organ ,  by  the  pillar  to  the  left, 
is  a  well-executed  old  Gothic  sculpture ,  representing  the  bearing  of  the 
Cross.  The  sarcophagus  of  a  child  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  Fran- 
conian  major-domo's  is  also  worth  inspection.  —  The  Goldbmb  Kammbb,  or 
treasury  (admission  l1/*  m.,  for  1-3  persons)  contains  the  fine  late-Romanesque 
Reliquary  of  St.  Ursula ,  several  other  reliquaries  of  the  Gothic  period, 
and  a  carved  rock-crystal  chessman  of  the  Carlovingian  period. 

The  Jesuits'  Church  (PI.  47;  F,  4),  erected  in  1618-29,  is  a 
striking  example  of  the  Renaissance  style ,  partaking  of  a  Gothic 
character,  peculiar  to  this  order.  The  pulpit  and  high-altar  are  over- 
laden with  decoration.  The  bells  were  cast  with  the  metal  of  cannons 
taken  by  Tilly  at  Magdeburg,  and  presented  by  him  to  the  church. 


Town  Wall.  COLOGNE.  3.  Route.     43 

St  Andreas  (PI.  86 ;  F,  4),  with  Romanesque  nave  of  1220  and  a 
raised  Gothic  choir  of  1414,  contains  a  fine  brass -gilt  reliquary 
(the  'Reliquary  of  the  Maccabees'),  of  late-Gothic  workmanship, 
with  reliefs. 

The  neighbouring  street  '  Enter  Sachscnhausen1  contains  num- 
erous handsome  buildings.    Of  these  may  be  mentioned  No.  8,  the  /^lvV 
Rank  nf  the  Schaaffhausen  Co..  with  a  fine  new  wing,  in  the  style 
of  the  Renaissance;  Nos.  '24-26 ,  the  office  of  the  Cologne  Fire  and     < 
Hail  Insurance  Companies ;  and  the  mansions  of  Herr  Oppenhchn 
and  Herr  Kaaf. 

On  the  Rhine,  near  the  N.  end  of  the  town,  is  situated  the  Church 
of  *8t.  Cnnibert  (PI.  40 ;  G,  5),  an  excellent  example  of  the  tran- 
sition-style, consecrated  by  Archbishop  Conrad  in  1247,  the  year  be- 
fore he  laid  the  foundation  of  the  cathedral,  and  recently  restored. 
It  is  a  vaulted  basilica  with  two  transepts  and  three  towers.  The 
principal  tower,  over  the  W.  transept,  fell  in  1830 ,  but  has  also 
been  restored. 

The  Intbkiok  contains  fine  *  Stained  Glass  (in  the  choir)  of  the 
13th  century,  remains  of  good  Romanesque  mural  paintings ,  pictures  of 
the  Cologne  school,  and  sculptures  of  the  14th  and  16th  centuries  (relief 
of  the  Crucifixion).  The  choir  has  lately  been  decorated  with  encaustic 
*Moral  Paintings  by  Welter.    Fine  modern  organ. 

The  opposite  Marien-Hospital  for  incurables  (PI.  15)  was  erected 
by  subscription. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  works  of  its  kind  is  the  well-pre- 
served Town  Wall ,  with  broad ,  deep  fosses  and  admirable  gate- 
towers  (such  as  the  8everinsthor ,  Hahnenihor,  Oereonsthor,  and 
Engelsteinthor),  which  according  to  documents  still  extant  was  begun 
in  1200.  It  describes  a  semicircle,  the  chord  of  which,  about IV2M. 
in  length,  is  formed  by  the  Rhine.  Its  removal,  however,  has  been 
rendered  necessary  by  the  plans  for  the  extension  of  the  town. 

Near  the  Bayenthurm  (PL  A,  6),  a  square  pinnacled  tower  of 
the  13  th -14th  cent.,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  is  theSicherhcits- 
hafen  ('safety-harbour',  where  vessels  take  refuge  in  winter  from 
the  dangers  of  the  floating  ice),  which  was  formed  in  1848  by  con- 
necting the  Rheinau,  then  an  island,  with  the  mainland.  Part  of 
the  Rheinau  is  now  laid  out  as  a  promenade.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
harbour  is  a  spinning  factory.  The  warehouses  of  the  Freihafen 
(PI.  E,  5),  or  free-harbour  for  goods  in  bond,  immediately  below 
the  bridge-of-boats,  were  erected  in  1838  in  the  style  of  the  Giir- 
zenich.  The  traveller  intending  to  cross  the  Iron  Bridge  (p.  31) 
approaches  it  by  the  Domthor  to  the  N. 

Passing  the  Trankgassenthor ,  to  the  N.  of  the  bridge ,  and  St. 
Cnnibert  (see  above),  where  there  is  a  pier  of  the  steamboats  noticed 
on  p.  23,  we  reach  the  N.  end  of  the  town  ('Am  Thurmchen' ;  comp. 
Plan  H,  5,  6,  and  the  Map  of  the  Environs),  cross  the  entrance  to 
the  Old  Sicherheitshafen,  and  skirting  a  number  of  gardens  (Kaiser- 
Garten,  see  p.  22)  and  villas,  at  length  arrive  at  the  'Zoological 


44     Routt  4.  ZONS.  From  Cologne 

Garden  (admission ,  see  p.  23).  A  military  band  generally  plays 
here  on  Wed.  afternoons.  Grounds  well  laid  out,  fine  collection  of 
animals.  *Refreshment-room.  Cabs,  tramway,  and  steamboats,  see 
p.  23.  —  Adjacent  is  the  "Botanical  Garden  of  the  'Flora  Co.' 
(admission,  see -p.  23;  good  restaurant),  with  a  handsome  conser- 
vatory and  an  Aquarium  (Director,  Herr  NiepraschJc).  The  Belve- 
dere commands  a  good  survey  of  Cologne  and  the  Seven  Mts.  — 
The  belvedere  of  Bruekmanris  Restaurant,  between  the  Zoological 
and  Flora  gardens,  is  another  good  point  of  view. 

To  the  W.,  between  the  St.  Gereon's  Thor  and  the  Ehren-Thor, 
lies  the  Town  Garden  (Stadtischer  Garten ;  PI.  F,  1),  with  a  hor- 
ticultural school,  which  affords  a  favourite  promenade. 

The  extensive  Cemetery,  on  the  road  to  Aix-la-Chapelle,  »/«  M.  from  the 
Hahnen-Thor  (cab  for  1-4  pers.  2  m.),  contains  several  fine  monuments, 
including  those  of  Prof.  Wallraf  and  Herr  Bichartz  (p.  32),  memorial  mon- 
uments of  the  wars  of  1866  and  1870-1871,  and  a  monument  to  the  memory 
of  French  prisoners  who  died  here.  —  Auout  8  M.  W.  of  Cologne,  at  the 
village  of  Weiden,  is  an  interesting  vaulted  Roman  tomb,  with  a  sarco- 
phagus, niches,  and  busts. 


On  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  opposite  Cologne,  lies  Deutz 
(hotel,  see  p.  22;  railway-stations,  see  p.  22),  the  tete-de-pont 
of  Cologne ,  and  the  Roman  Castellum  Divitense.  It  existed  as  a 
fortress  down  to  1114,  after  which  it  was  repeatedly  destroyed,  as  a 
settlement  here  would  have  been  inconsistent  with  the  privileges  of 
Cologne.  Since  1816  Deutz  has  been  fortified  by  the  Prussians  in 
connection  with  Cologne.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church  contains  the 
altar-tomb  of  St.  Heribert,  of  the  year  1147.  The  Protestant  Jo- 
hanniskirchc  was  consecrated  in  1861. 


4.   From  Cologne  to  Neuss  (Dfa&eldorf) ,  Crefeld, 
and  Cleve. 

Railway  to  Cleve  in  272-81/4  hrs.  (fares  9  m.  60,  7  m.  20,  4  m.  80  pf.);  to 
Diisseldorf  in  lVi-l'A  hr.  (fares  3  m.  70,  2  m.  80,  1  m.  90  pf.).  From  Neuss 
onwards,  the  Bergisch-Markisch  line,  crossing  the  Rhine,  see  p.  47. 

Cologne,  see  R.  3.  —  2  M.  Nippes.  —  5  M.  Longerich. 

9Ya  M.  Worringen,  the  Buruncum  of  the  Romans ,  and  one  of 
their  cavalry-stations.  In  a  battle  fought  here  in  1288  between  the 
citizens  of  Cologne  and  the  Brabanters  under  the  Duke  of  Berg  on 
one  side,  and  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  and  the  Duke  of  Guelders 
on  the  other ,  the  struggle  between  the  burghers  and  their  arch- 
bishop was  decided  in  favour  of  the  former. 

13  M.  Dormagen ,  the  Roman  Durnomagus.  About  2J/2  M.  to 
the  E.,  on  the  Rhine,  lies  Zons,  the  Roman  Sontium,  a  small  town 
with  numerous  towers,  which  once  belonged  to  Cologne.  The  Pre- 
monstratensian  abbey  of  KnechUteden ,  with  a  beautiful  R6man- 
esque  church  begun  in  1138,  is  situated  3  M.  to  the  W. 


to  CUve.  CREFELD.  4.  Route.     45 

188/4  M.  Norf.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  is  seen  the  railway- 
bridge  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  line  in  the  distance  (p.  47). 

22 Va  M.  Heuas  (Rheinischer  Hof;  see  map  annexed  to  plan  of 
Dusseldorf),  often  mentioned  as  a  Roman  fortress  in  the  annals  of 
the  Batavian  war ,  under  the  name  Novesium ,  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  Germany.  Pop.  17,000.  In  1774  it  was  in  Tain  besieged 
by  Charles  the  Bold  of  Burgundy  for  forty-eight  weeks,  and  in  1686 
was  conquered  and  treated  wHh  great  severity  by  Alexander  Farnese. 
It  once  lay  on  the  Rhine,  from  which  it  is  now  ly^M.  distant.  The 
handsome  *Quirinuskirche,  an  interesting  building  in  the  transition- 
style,  begun  in  1209  by  the  master  Wolbero,  is  a  basilica  with  nave 
and  aisles,  and  with  towers  over  the  transept  and  over  the  W.  side, 
which  externally  forms  a  second  transept.  Above  the  aisles  run 
galleries,  and  some  of  the  windows  are  peculiarly  shaped.  The 
niches  of  the  W.  portal  are  filled  with  statues  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul  by  Bayerle  of  Dusseldorf.  The  E.  tower,  which  was  re-erected 
after  its  destruction  by  lightning  in  1741,  is  crowned  with  a  8tatue 
of  8t.  Quirinus,  who  was  probably  a  Roman  soldier.  The  Rathhaus 
contains  a  considerable  collection  of  Roman  Antiquities. 

From  Neusfl  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  DiUseldorf,  see  R.  5$  to  Necrten- 
Neutcerk  and  Rheydt,  see  p.  48;  to  D&ren,  see  p.  12. 

A  branch  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  railway  (change  carriages  at  Keuss) 
leads  by  Heerdt  to  Obercassel>  on  the  Rhine,  opposite  Dusseldorf,  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  bridge  of  boats.    Dtisseldorf,  see  p.  16. 

28  M.  Osterath.  32^2  M.  Oppum,  the  junction  for  the  line  to 
Essen  and  Dortmund ,  which  crosses  the  Rhine  at  (6  M.)  Rhein- 
hauscn,  between  Verdingen  (p.  49)  and  Hochfeld,  by  a  bridge,  1040 
yds.  long,  completed  in  1875,  and  spanning  the  river  in  four  hand- 
some arches.  Essen,  and  thence  by  Bochum  and  Langendreer  to 
Dortmund,  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 

34  M.  Crefeld  (* Wilder  Mann;  *Hilgers;  Htrfs;  EnzUr's  Re- 
staurant) is  the  seat  of  the  chief  silk  and  velvet  manufactories  in 
Germany,  which  employ  about  30,000  looms  and  produce  fabrics  of 
an  annual  value  of  3,000,OOOJ.-3,500,OOOJ.,  vying  in  excellence 
with  those  of  Lyons,  and  largely  exported  to  England,  America,  and 
other  foreign  countries.  Several  new  Churches.  In  the  Rathhaus  are 
good  frescoes  (the  battle  of  Arminius)  by  Janssen  of  Dusseldorf. 
Monument  in  memory  of  the  Franco-German  war  of  1870-1871,  by 
Walger  of  Berlin.  There  are  also  monuments .  in  honour  of  Cor- 
nelius de  Greiff,  an  eminent  philanthropist,  and  C.  Wilhelm,  the 
composer  of  the  'Wacht  am  Rhein\  Pop.  73,866  (13,000  in  1830), 
25,000  being  Protestants.  The  StadthaUe,  a  large  concert-hall,  was 
completed  in  1879.  The  new  Zoological  Garden  is  a  favourite  place 
of  resort,  at  which  open-air  concerts  and  other  entertainments  are 
given.  Crefeld  is  first  mentioned  by  name  in  a  document  of  1166 
and  obtained  municipal  privileges  in  1373.  On  the  extinction  of  the 
Counts  of  Moers  in  1600  it'  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Princes  of 
Nassau  and  Orange,  under  whom  the  foundation  of  the  town's  pro- 


46     Route  4.  OLEVE. 

sperity  was  laid  by  the  protection  extended  to  Protestants  and  Ana- 
baptists banished  from  the  Duchies  of  Julich  and  Berg.  In  1702 
Crefeld  fell  by  inheritance  to  the  crown  of  Prussia,  to  which  it  has 
since  belonged  with  the  exception  of  a  few  years  (1794-1814) 
when  it  was  subject  to  France.  In  June,  1758,  Prince  Ferdinand 
of  Brunswick,  the  general  of  Frederick  the  Great,  defeated  the 
French  under  Count  Clermont  in  the  vicinity.  Crefeld  is  the  junc- 
tion of  the  lines  to  Aix-la-Chapelle  and  to  Ruhrort  (R.  6),  and  also 
of  local  lines  to  Viersen,  Suchteln,  etc. 

41  M.  Kempen  (Herriger),  an  ancient  town  with  a  well-pre- 
served Romanesque  church ,  the  supposed  birthplace  of  Thomas  a 
Kempis  (d.  at  Zwolle,  1471).  The  fertile  district  begins  to  assume 
the  Dutch  character.  46  M.  Aldekerk;  48y2  M.  Nieukerk.  53  M. 
Oeldern  (*H6t.  Holtzem),  once  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Guelders, 
has  belonged  to  Prussia  since  1713.  Our  line  here  intersects  the 
railway  from  Holland  (Venlo,  Straelen)  to  Bremen'  and  Hamburg. 
The  train  crosses  the  Niers.  58J/2  M.  Kevelaer  (frequented  by  pil- 
grims); 62  M.  Weeze, 

66 Y2  M.  Goch. ,  an  important  place  in  the  middle  ages ,  also  a 
station  on  the  line  from  Boxtel  to  Wesel,  which  is  now  traversed  by 
the  express  trains  from  Berlin  to  Flushing  (Berlin  to  London  in 
24  hrs.). 

Fbom  Goch  to  Wesel,  24  M.,  railway  in  174-lV*hr.  (fares  4  m.« 
3  m.,  2  m.).  —  5  M.   Uedem. 

12V2  M.  Xanten  (Ingenlath),  a  town  of  great  antiquity,  with  2600  in- 
hab. ,  the  Castra  Vetera  of  the  Romans,  founded  by  Augustus  after  the  de- 
feat of  Lollius  (B.C.  18),  whose  camp  was  situated  on  the  Fiirstenberg, 
near  Birten,  V»  M.  to  the  S.  The  'Nibelungenlied'  mentions  Xanten  as 
the  birthplace  of  Siegfried  the  dragon-slayer  (p.  76).  The  ''Collegiate  Church 
of  St.  Victor,  erected  in  1213-1522 ,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architecture,  and 
is  adorned  with  paintings  by  J.  v.  Galcar,  De  Bruyn,  and  other  artists. 
The  choir,  separated  from  the  nave  by  an  elegant  bronze  screen,  is 
worthy  of  notice.  The  cloisters  contain  some  interesting  tombstones.  One 
of  the  walls  of  an  ancient  building,  apparently  about  330  ft.  square,  was 
excavated  to  the  K.  of  Xanten  in  1879,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  it  is  of 
Roman  or  of  Frankish  origin. 

Beyond  Xanten  the  train  crosses  the  Rhine,  passes  some  unimportant 
stations,  and  reaches  (24  M.)  Wesel  (p.  15). 

74J/2  M.  Cleve.  —  Hotels.  *Maywald,  on  the  8.  side  of  the  hill,  with 
large  garden  *,  ""Bad-Hotel,  ""Hotel  Sttbdm,  belonging  to  a  company,  with 
gardens  and  baths,  to  the  W.  of  and  outside  the  town,  in  the  Thiergar- 
ten,  'pension'  5  m.,  R.  from  2  m.;  *Robbers,  also  in  the  Thiergarten  \  Hotel 
Loock,  opposite  the  post-office  •,  'Hotel  Holtzem,  near  the  palace.  —  Beer 
at  the  Deutscher  Kaiser,  adjoining  the.Stiftskirche. 

Visitors'  Tax,  for  stay  of  more  than  a  week,  5  m.;  two  pers.  8  m.*, 
each  additional  member  of  a  family  1  m. 

Cleve,  Dutch  Kleef,  pop.  10,000,  once  the  capital  of  the  duchy  of 
that  name ,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  wooded  hill,  4^2  M.  W.  of 
Emmerich,  and  is  much  frequented  by  Dutch  families  in  summer. 
T&P  Gothic  *Stifl8kirche,  an  imposing  brick  edifice,  erected  in  1345, 
contains  monuments  of  Counts  and  Dukes  of  Cleve  (the  finest  that 
of  Adolph  VI.,  d.  1394),  and  one  of  Margaretha  von  Berg(d.  1425). 
*—  A  Statue  of  the  Elector  John  SigUmund  (d.  1619)  by  Bayerle, 


HERZOGENRATH.  5.  Route.    47 

erected  on  the  road  to  the  palace  in  1859 ,  is  a  memorial  of  the  an- 
nexation of  the  district  to  the  Electorate  of  Brandenburg  in  1609. 

On  a  picturesque  eminence  in  the  town  rises  the  Palace  of  the 
former  dukes,  generally  called  the  8chwanenburg  (in  the  court- 
yard a  Roman  Altar  found  in  the  neighbourhood),  with  the  lofty 
*Schwanenthurm ,  erected  by  Adolph  I.  in  1439,  on  the  site  of  an 
'  ancient  tower  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  Cesar.  The  Schwa- 
nenthurm,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  legend  made  so  widely 
known  through  Wagner's  opera  of  'Lohengrin',  and  the  Clever- Berg, 
V2  M.  distant ,  command  the  most  beautiful  views  on  the  Lower 
Rhine.  Near  the  Schwanenburg  rises  the  Prinzenhof,  erected  in 
1663  by  Maurice  of  Orange,  Governor  of  Gleve  (appointed  by  the 
Elector  of  Brandenburg) ,  and  now  the  property  of  the  Prince  of 
Waldeck.  To  the  S.  extends  a  range  of  hill,  on  which  lies  'Berg 
und  ThaV  ('"Restaurant),  with  the  grave  of  Prince  Maurice  (d.  1679). 
Towards  the  W.  lie  the  hills  known  as  the  Thiergarten}  laid  out  with 
pleasant  park-like  grounds,  which  adjoin  the  road  and  railway  to 
Nymwegen.  The  Roman  camp  Colonia  Trajana,  established  by  the 
Emp.  Trajan,  lay  near  Gleve. 

Beyond  Gleve  the  Rhenish  Railway  pursues  its  K.  direction,  crosses 
the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  steam -ferry  near  atat  Elten,  and  at  etat. 
Zevenaar  unites  with  the  Dutch  line  to  Amsterdam  and  Rotterdam  (R.  2) ; 
see  also  Baedeker**  Belgium  and  Holland. 

To  Nymwegen  by  railway  via  Groetbeck  and  Cranenburg  in  40  min. ; 
comp.  Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland. 

From  Gleve  diligence  once  daily  in  l'/«  hr.  to  (71/*  M.)  Galea* ,  the 
Gothic  church  of  which,  of  the  14th  cent.,  contains  a  remarkably  fine  al- 
tar-piece by  Johann  of  Calcar,  and  below  it  some  admirably  carved  wood- 
work. Calcar  was  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  General  Seyd- 
litz  (d.  1773),  the  conqueror  at  Bossbach,  a  handsome  monument  to  whom 
adorns  the  market-place. 

5.  From  Aix-la-Chapelle  by  Gladbach  to  Diuaeldorf. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  44. 

53  M.  Railway  to  Diisseldorf  in  l»/«-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  50,  5  m.  60,  3  m. 
80  pf.;  express  8  m.  80,  6  m.  50,  4  m.  60  pf.). 

This  railway  ('Bergisch-Markisch  Co.)  has  two  stations  at  Aix- 
la-Cbftpelle,  one  at  the  Marsehierthor,  the  other  at  the  Templerbend 
(comp.  p.  4).  At  stat.  Richterich  the  Mastricht  Line  diverges  to 
the  left.  The  tall  chimneys  near  (572  M.)  Kohlscheid  belong  to 
coal-mines.  The  train  now  descends  into  the  pleasing  and  partially 
wooded  valley  of  the  Wurm. 

At  (8  M>)  Herzogenrath  (Zum  Wurmthal) ,  French  Rolduc ,  a 
small  town  with  an  ancient  castle ,  the  buildings  of  the  suppressed 
Abbey  of  Klosterrath  (now  a  school)  look  down  from  a  height  on 
the  left.  The  Church  was  consecrated  in  1209,  and  its  crypt  in  1108, 

On  the  left  near  (12y2M.)  Palenberg,  rise  the  chateaux  of  Rim-* 
burg  and  Zweibruggen,  and  at  (15  M.)  OeUenkirchen  that  of  Trips* 
The  train  then  traverses  the  undulating  Duchy  of  Jiilich,  and  be-« 
tween  (20  M.)  Lindern  and  (24'/2M.)  Baal  crosses  the  valley  of  the, 


48    Route  5.  GLADBACH. 

2foer(p.  12).  —  27y2M.  Erkdena,  an  old  town  with  the  picturesque 
ruins  of  a  castle  destroyed  in  1674 ,  and  a  handsome  church  of  the 
14th  century.   33%  M.  Wickrath,  with  a  government  stud. 

35V2  M.  Bheydt  (Krusemann ;  Jobges),  with  18,000  inhabitants, 
is  the  junction  of  the  Gladbach-Roermond-Antwerp  line  (see  below) 
and  of  the  Left-Rhenish  line  to  Gladbach,  Neersen-Neuwerk,  and 
News  (p.  45;  17  M.  in  ii/4  hr.). 

About  6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Kheydt  is  situated  Behloss  Dyck,  the  chateau 
of  Prince  Salm-Beifferscheid-Dyck,  with  beautiful  grounds,  and  a  garden 
which  boasts  of  the  most  complete  collection  of  cacti  in  Europe.  (Good 
inn,  opposite  the  gate  of  the  chateau.)  —  Schlott  Liedberg,  3  M.  to  the  N. 
of  Dyck,  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

38  M.  GHadbach  (*Herfs;  Kothen;  *Lenssen's  Restaurant)  is  a 
rising  manufacturing  town  of  37,380  inhab.,  and  one  of  the  centres 
of  the  Rhenish  cotton ,  woollen ,  iron ,  and  engine-making  indus- 
tries. To  distinguish  it  from  another  place  of  the  same  name  (p.  21) 
it  is  termed  Miinchen-Gladbach,  the  epithet  Miinchen  (i.e.  'M6n- 
chen'  or  monks)  being  derived  from  a  Benedictine  abbey,  founded 
in  793  and  suppressed  in  1802,  to  which  the  town  owes  its  origin. 
Admission  to  any  of  the  numerous  factories  or  dye-works  is  usually 
granted  by  the  owner  on  application.  The  imposing  brick  edifice  to 
the  right  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  station  is  a  spinning  and  weav- 
ing factory.  Several  important  insurance  societies  have  their  head- 
quarters here.  The  early-Gothic  choir  of  the  Miinstcrkirche,  dating 
from  the  second  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  is  supposed  to  have  been 
built  by  Meister  Gerard  of  Riehl  (p.  26);  the  treasury  contains  a 
fine  late-Gothic  portable  altar  and  other  interesting  objects.  The 
terrace  of  the  Erholung  Club  (introduction  by  a  member  necessary), 
situated  in  a  shady  park,  and  the  old  Abbey  afford  commanding 
views  of  the  Glad  bach  manufacturing  district  ('Fabrikbezirk'),  which 
includes  the  towns  of  Gladbach,  Rheydt,  Viersen,  Odenkirchen, 
Diilken ,  and  Siichteln ,  and  presents  a  scene  of  great  industrial 
activity. 

Gladbach  is  the  junction  of  the  Grefeld  and  Buhrort  line  (see  B.  6). 

Fkom  Gladbach  to  Ahtwebp  ,  99  M. ,  railway  in  4  hours.  Stations 
Rheydt,  Rheindahlen,  Wegberg,  (14  H.)  Dalheim  (frontier-station).  Thence 
to  Antwerp)  see  Baedeker's  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Branch-line  from  Gladbach  to  Julich,  Esch weiler,  and  Stol berg,  see  p.  11. 

The  line  now  turns  towards  the  E.,  traverses  a  flat,  arable,  and 
partially  wooded  tract,  and  leads  to  (43  M.)  KUinenbroich  and 
(43 V2  M.)  Heuss  (p.  45) ,  the  junction  of  the  Aix-la-Chapelle- 
Diisseldorf,  Cologne-Crefeld,  and  Dtiren-Neuss  lines.  Soon  after 
leaving  the  station ,  the  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge 
completed  in  1873  (see  plan  of  Dusseldorf).  To  the  left  fine  view 
of  (53  M.)  Dusseldorf  (p.  16). 


49 
6.  From  Gladbach  to  Crefeld,  Ruhrort,  and  Essen. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  44. 

42  M.  Railway  in  2»/»  brs.  (fares  5  m.  40,  4  m.  10,  2  m.  70  pf.). 

Munchen-Gladbach,  see  p.  48.  —  O1^  M.  Viersen  (Hllgers  / 
Dahlhausen),  a  town  with  21,000  inhab.  and  extensive  manufac- 
tories of  silks  and  velvet  ribbons. 

A  line  diverges  hence  to  Venlo,  the  junction  of  the  Dutch  railways  to 
Flushing  and  Rotterdam,  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  S.  to  MaUricht.  See 
Baedeker**  Belgium  and  Holland. 

Viersen  is  also  connected  by  a  short  branch-line  with  Neerstn-Neu- 
werk  on  the  Keuss  railway  (see  E.  5). 

The  Crefeld  line  next  crosses  the  Nord-Canal ,  begun  by  Na- 
poleon, but  never  completed.  9  M.  Anrath,  then  (14  M.)  Crefeld 
(P-  45). 

I8V2  M.  TJerdingen  (*Kellner),  a  commercial  town  on  the  Rhine, 
with  several  extensive  liqueur  and  sugar  manufactories,  is  the  j unc- 
tion of  lines  to  Oppum,  Linn,  Hochfeld,  Essen,  etc.  (comp.  p.  45), 
—  23  M.  Trompet. 

26  M.  Homberg,  whence  travellers  are  conveyed  by  steamboat 
in  8  min.  to  Ruhrort,  and  landed  at  the  station  of  the  Cologne-Min- 
den,  or  that  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  railway.  The  towers  (128  ft. 
in  height)  at  the  Homberg  and  Ruhrort  harbours  are  employed  in 
placing  laden  trucks  on  the  steam-ferry  by  which  the  Rhine  is  here 
crossed. 

27  M.  Ruhrort  fCleve  Hotel;  Preussiseher  Hof;  Rhemiseher 
Hof),  with  8500  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the  Ruhr, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  trading  towns  in  the  district.  Its 
extensive  harbour,  4  M.  in  length,  is  connected  by  branch-lines 
with  the  main  railways.  The  export  of  coals  from  Ruhrort  amounts 
to  about  l1/^  million  tons  annually,  for  the  transport  of  which  it 
possesses  a  number  of  powerful  tug-steamers  and  400  barges,  some 
of  them  upwards  of  500  tons  burden.  One-half  of  the  coal  export- 
ed goes  to  the  various  towns  on  the  Upper  Rhine,  and  as  far  as 
Strassburg,  and  the  other  half  to  Holland.  The  Quays  of  Ruhrort 
are  of  considerable  extent.  A  granite  obelisk  on  the  quay  is  to  the 
memory  of  Ludwig  von  Vincke  (d.  1844),  the  president  of  the  pro- 
vince, who  materially  improved  the  navigation  of  the  Ruhr.  Oppo- 
site the  railway-station  are  situated  the  blast  and  puddling-f  urnaces 
of  the  Phoenix  Co. 

From  Ruhrort  branch-lines  run  to  (51/*  M.)  Oberhauten  and  (7  M.) 
Sterkrade  (p.  16). 

29  M.  Meiderieh,  a  place  with  12,000  inhab.,  important  iron- 
works, and  a  monument  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71. 

35  M.  MiUheim  an  der  Ruhr,  see  Baedekers  Northern  Germany. 
35*/2  Af»  Mulhcim-Eppinghofen,  the  second  station  of  Miilheim. 

42  M.  Essen,  see  Baedeker  s  Northern  Germany. 

Baedbkeb's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  4 


50 

7.  From  Cologne  to  Elberfeld  and  Hagen. 

431/2  M.  Railway  ('Bergisch-Markisch'),  express  in  l1/*,  ordinary  trains 
in  2Vs  hrs. ;  fares  5  m.  60,  4  m.  20,  2  m.  80  pf. 

Cologne,  see  Route  3.  The  terminus  of  the  Bergisch-Markisch 
railway  is  at  Deutz,  outside  the  fortifications  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine  (20  min.  from  the  central  station 
at  Cologne ;  omnibus,  see  p.  22). 

2  M.  Mulheim,  see  p.  21;  7M.  Schlcbusch;  9 1/2  M.  Opladcn; 
I2V2M.  Lcichlingen ;  16M.  OJUigs-  Wald  [whence  a  branch-line  runs 
in  7i  hr>  to  Solingen  (Bairischer  Hof),  an  important  manufacturing 
place] ;  20  M.  Haan,  the  junction  of  the  Dusseldorf-Elberfeld  line  ; 
23  M.  Vohwihkel,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Steele,  an  important 
coal-railway.   The  train  now  crosses  the  Wupper  and  reaches  — 

26y2M.  Elberfeld-Steinbeck,  (27  M.)  Elberfeld,  (28  M.)  Vnter- 
Barmen,  and  (29*/2  M.)  Barmen,  which  begin  at  the  bridge  over 
the  Wupper,  and  now  form  together  a  single  large  manufacturing 
town,  which  fills  the  bottom  and  extends  up  the  sides  of  the  valley, 
and  is  intersected  by  the  railway,  the  high-road  with  a  tramway- 
line,  and  the  Wupper. 

Hotels  in  Elberfeld.  Hotel  Bloex  zum  Weidenhof  (PI.  a  5  F,  4) ; 
Victobia  (PI.  d;  F,  4)  ;  Post  (PI.  e :  E,3);  HAtel  Schabpenack  (PI.  c ;  E,3) ; 
Rheutischeb  Hof  (PL  f ;  E, 4)  ;  Kolnischeb  Hof;  Zweibbuckeb  Hof  (PI.  f ; 
E,  4).  —  Hotels  in  Barmen.  Kaisebhof,  Vooleb  (PL  a;  D,  8),  Evangexi- 
sches  Verkin8HAD8,  all  near  the  station;  Zub  PfaIz  (PL  b ;  E,8),  3ch£tzbn- 
haus  (PL  c;  D,  3),  in  the  town. 

Restaurants  at  Elberfeld.  Biermann,  Alter  Markt (beer);  Himmelmann, 
Schwanen-Str.  (wine). 

The  sister  towns  of  Elberfeld  and  Barmen,  which  have  risen  to 
importance  since  the  middle  of  last  century,  now  contain  189,000 
inhab.  (Elberfeld,  93,500;  Barmen,  95,800),  and  rank  among  the 
richest  manufacturing  towns  on  the  continent.  The  chief  products 
of  their  very  numerous  and  extensive  factories  are  cotton,  calico, 
silk,  ribbons,  Turkey-red  dyed  goods,  soap,  candles,  and  chemi- 
cals. Since  the  introduction  of  power-looms  the  value  of  the  cotton 
and  silk  manufactures  has  risen  to  130  million  marks  annually. 
The  old  parts  of  the  towns  are  irregular  and  confined,  but  the 
modern  portions  contain  many  fine  private  buildings.  The  finest 
part  of  Elberfeld  is  the  quarter  to  the  S.W.,  near  the  Nutzenberg 
(PI.  A,  5),  a  hill  with  a  belvedere  commanding  an  extensive  view. 
The  KSnig-Strasse  (PI.  B,  C,  D,  5,  4),  Briller-Str.  (PI.  B,  4,  3),  and 
Sadowa-Str.  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  all  in  this  neighbourhood,  are  three  of  the 
handsomest  streets  in  the  town.  The  principal  public  edifices  are : 
the  Rathhaus  (PI.  16);  the  Rtformirte  Kirche  (PI.  10),  designed  by 
Zwirner ;  the  Lutheran  Church ;  the  Landgerichtsgebaude  (PI.  12), 
or  courts  of  law,  with  a  picture  of  the  Last  Judgment  in  the  princi- 
pal court  by  Baur ;  the  large  Hospital  (PI.  C,  6) ;  the  Head  Offices 
of  the  Bergisch-Markisch  Railway  (PI.  22).  The  Hardt  (PI.  G,  3), 
where  there  are  a  monument  to  St.  Suitbertus  and  a  memorial  of 
the  warriors  of  the  campaign  1870-71,  commands  a  pleasing  view. 


HAGEN.  7.  Route.     51 

— In  Barmen  the  chief  buildings  are  the  Protcttant  Church  (Pi.  10), 
designed  by  Hubsch ;  the  Missionahaus  (PI.  22),  and  the  Missions- 
kinderhaus,  containing  an  interesting  collection  of  curiosities  from 
foreign  countries;  the  new  Theatre.  On  the  way  from  the  station 
of  ELberfeld  to  that  of  Barmen,  the  train  passes  an  iron  monument 
to  Frederick  William  III. 

From  Elbeefeld  to  Dusseldorh,  17  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  2  m. 
40,  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20  pf.).  Stations  Vohwinkel,  Boon  (see  above),  Hoch- 
dahl,  Erkrath,  Gerresheim,  Diltseldorf  (p.  16). 

The  line  skirts  the  E.  side  of  the  valley  of  the  W upper.  30  M. 
Bittershausen.  It  then  crosses  the  Wupper,  quits  the  Duchy  of 
Berg,  and  enters  the  County  of  Mark.  The  river  anciently  formed 
the  boundary  between  the  Franks  and  Saxons,  and  now  separates 
the  Rhine-land  from  Westphalia.  —  34  M.  Bchwelm  (Roscnkranz), 
a  town  with  7200  inhabitants.  Farther  on ,  the  train  passes  the 
Schwelmer  Brunnen,  a  chalybeate  spring,  and  through  several  cut- 
tings, and  reaches  (36*/2M.)  Milspe.  Pleasing  view  up  the  valley  of 
the  Ennepe,  which  the  train  crosses  by  embankments  and  a  viaduct, 
100  ft.  in  height ,  to  (38  M.)  Gevelsberg,  a  town  consisting  of  a 
long  row  of  detached  houses.  The  stream  turns  the  machinery  of 
numerous  small  iron-works,  where  scythes,  sickles,  and  shovels  are 
largely  manufactured.  A  kind  of  axe  for  felling  the  sugar-cane  is 
also  made  here  for  export.  At  (41  M.)  Haspe  are  extensive  pud- 
dling works  and  rolling-mills. 

43  V2  M-  Hagen  (Hdtcl  Lunensehloss,  at  the  station ;  Spannagel, 
Glitz,  in  the  town ;  ^Railway  Restaurant),  a  manufacturing  town 
with  26,300  inhab.,  and  the  junction  for  Dortmund,  Cassel  (see 
Baedeker's  N.  Germany),  and  Siegen. 

From  Hagen  to  Siegen  in  3y2  hrs.  (fares  8  m.  60,  6  m.  50,  4  m.  30  pf.). 
This  line  (the  Ruhr-Siegbahri),  which  connects  the  manufacturing  regions 
of  the  Lenne  and  the  Sieg  with  the  coal-measures  of  the  Ruhr,  runs  to 
the  N.  for  a  short  distance  in  the  valleys  of  the  Volme  and  the  Ruhr, 
and  then  turns  to  the  S.  at  the  foot  of  the  Hohen-Sybwg,  into  the  pictur- 
esque and  populous  valley  of  the  Lenney  which  it  follows  as  far  as  Alten- 
hundem.  5  M.  Kabel.  On  a  hill  to  the  right  near  Limburg  rises  a  column 
to  the  memory  of  a  Prince  Bentheim.  10  M.  Limburg  C  Bentheimer  Bof, 
by  the  bridge;  Gerhardi,  at  the  station),  a  prettily  situated  town  with 
5000  inhab.,  is  commanded  by  the  chateau  of  Prince  Bentheim,  situated 
on  a  bold  wooded  height,  and  affording  a  fine  view.  12V«  M.  Letmathe  (H6- 
tel  Titz;  Restaurant  at  the  station),  with  3700  inhab.,  is  the  junction  for 
Iserlohn  (see  below). 

18VsH.  Altena  (Klincke,  beyond  the  bridge  -,  Quitmannt  in  the  town)  is 
a  very  picturesquely  situated  little  town,  with  the  ancestral  Schloss  of 
the  Counts  von  der  Mark,  which  commands  an  admirable  view.  24  M. 
Werdohl;  30  M.  Plettenberg;  38  M.  Finnentrop ,  whence  a  branch-line 
leads  by  Attendorn  to  the  small  town  of  Olpe  (Deutscher  Kaiser),  with 
iron- works,  and  to  Rothemilhle;  41  M.  Qrevenbrilck ;  46  M.  Altenhundem, 
where  the  line  enters  the  Hundem-  Thai.  At  (63  M.)  Welschen-Ennest  the 
watershed  of  the  Rahrbacher  ffifhe  (1312  ft.)  is  penetrated  by  means  of  a 
tunnel,  beyond  which  the  train  reaches  (60  M.)  Kreuzthal,  (63  M.)  Gets- 
veid.  and  (65  M.)  ffaardf. 

66  M.  Siegen  (*Goldner  L&we),  a  busy  old  mining  town,  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  12,900  souls,  the  centre  of  the  iron  manufactures  of  the  district, 
and  of  a  system  of  meadow-farming,  with  a  special  school  for  that  branch 

4* 


52     Route  8.  SIEGBURG.  From  Cologne 

of  agriculture.  The  two  castles  belonged  to  the  Princes  of  Nassan-Siegen 
who  became  extinct  in  1743.  The  lower  castle  contains  a  monument  to 
a  Count  of  Nassau-Siegen,  who  was  a  Dutch  governor  of  Brazil  and  after- 
wards, in  the  Brandenburg  service,  Stadtholder  of  Cleve  (d.  1679;  comp. 
p.  47).  At  Siegen,  on  the  day  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  29th  June,  1577,  was 
born  the  eminent  painter  Peter  Paul  Rubens,  whose  father  Johannes  Rubens, 
the  Antwerp  bailiff,  with  his  wife  Marie  Pypeling,  was  then  living  here 
in  exile  (till  1578). 

At  Betzdorf  the  line  joins  the  Cologne  and  Giessen  railway,  see  R.  7. 

[From  Letmathe  to  Iserlohn  by  a  branch-line  in  10-18  min.  (fares 
60,  40,  25  pf.)«    Intermediate  station  Dechenh&hle,  see  below. 

Iserlohn  (Sander;  Hilgers),  a  manufacturing  town  of  some  im- 
portance, with  16,800  inhab.,  the  chief  products  of  which  are  iron  and 
bronze  wares,  needles,  and  wire.  The  picturesque  environs  are  crowded 
with  workshops  of  every  kind. 

At  the  Grune,  an  inn  on  the  Lenne  between  Iserlohn  and  Letmathe, 
rise  two  detached  rocks  termed  the  'Pater'  and  the  'Nonne',  near  which  is 
the  Orilrmannshdhle ,.  a  cavern  containing  numerous  fossil  remains  of  ante- 
diluvian animals.  On  the  railway  (see  above) ,  10  min.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Grime,  is  situated  the  highly  interesting  *  Dechenh&hle  (restaurant  at  the 
entrance),  a  stalactite  cavern  discovered  in  1868  (cards  of  admission,  75  pf. 
each,  sold  at  the  station),  lighted  with  gas,  and  extending  about  300  yds. 
into   the  hill.     The  finest  points  are  the  Orgelgrotte  and  the  Nixengrotte.] 

8.  From  Cologne  to  Frankfort  by  Giessen. 

143  M.  Rail wat  from  Cologne  to  (103  M.)  Giessen  in  4i/4-6lA  hrs.  (fares 
13  m.  30,  10  m.,  6  m.  70  pf.)*  from  Giessen  to  (40  M.)  Frankfort  in  ly4- 
3  hrs.  (fares  4  m.  40,  3  m.  30,  2  m.  20  pf.  •,  express,  5  m.,  3  m.  60  pf.). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Right-Rhenish  station  at  Deutz,  and 
traverses  a  flat  country  at  some  distance  from  the  Rhine.  The  great 
annual  gunnery  and  rifle  practice  of  the  8th  corps  of  the  Prussian 
army  takes  place  in  June  and  July  on  the  Wahner  Heide,  an  exten- 
sive plain,  1/2  M.  to  the  E.  of(8M.)  Wahn.  Beyond  (12V2  M.) 
Troisdorf,  where  the  Right-Rhenish  line  diverges  (p.  68),  the  line 
crosses  the  Agger,  on  the  bank  of  which  to  the  right  is  situated  an 
extensive  iron-foundry. 

15  M.  Biegburg  (*Sttm),  with  6800  inhab.,  lies  pleasantly  on 
the  slope  of  a  hill  at  the  confluence  of  the  Agger  and  the  Sieg. 
Above  it  rise  the  buildings  of  an  old  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded 
by  Abp.  Anno  in  1066  and  now  a  reformatory.  Of  the  abbey- 
church  the  crypt  alone  remains.  The  Parish  Church,  dating  from 
the  second  half  of  the  13th  cent.,  contains  several  interesting  tombs, 
including  that  of  St.  Anno  (d.  1075),  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  the 
stern  guardian  of  Emp.  Henry  IV.  Siegburg  possesses  a  large  gov- 
ernment shot-factory,  extensive  calico-printing  works,  and  other 
important  industrial  establishments.  —  Braneh-line  from  Sieg-* 
burg  to  Friedrich-Wilhelms-Hiitte,  see  p.  68. 

After  crossing  the  8ieg ,  a  view  of  the  Seven  MtB.  to  the  right 
is  obtained.  19  M.  Hennef.  The  castle  of  Allner,  the  property  of 
the  oculist  Dr.  Mooren  of  Dfisseldorf ,  adjoining  the  wood  to  the 
left,  stands  at  the  confluence  of  the  Broel  and  the  Sieg.  Farther 
on,  to  the  left,  the  monastery  of  Bbdingen ,  surrounded  by  vine- 
yards, and  the  chateau  of  Attenbach.    On  the  opposite  side  lies  the 


to  Frankfort  GIESSEN.  8.  Route.     53 

Tillage  of  Blankenberg  (*Honrath ,  with  a  terrace  commanding  a 
beautiful  view),  formerly  an  important  fortified  town,  with  a  ruined 
castle ;  it  is  now  a  popular  summer-resort.   Tunnel. 

Beyond  (27  M.)  Eitorf  (*Gerlach)  a  retrospect  is  obtained  of  the 
monastery  of  Merten  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  The  wooded  hills  en- 
closing the  valley  now  increase  in  height.  Two  tunnels  are  passed 
through  near  Herchen  and  Hoppengarten.  Near  Windeck,  with  the 
castle  of  that  name  on  the  hill  to  the  left ,  the  railway  and  high- 
road pass  through  a  deep  cutting.  36  M.  Sckladern  (diligence  twice 
daily  to  Waldbroet).  A  new  channel  has  here  been  constructed  for 
the  Sieg,  while  the  old  one  has  been  left  dry  for  a  distance  of  2  M. 
Tunnel.  From  (40  M.)  Au  a  diligence  plies  twice  daily  to  (10M.) 
Altenkirchen,  a  town  with  1500  inhab.,  near  which  the  French  un- 
der General  Kleber  defeated  the  Austrian*  in  1796.  [Marien$tatt, 
Vfa  M.  to  the  E.,  contains  the  interesting  church  of  a  Cistercian 
abbey  of  the  13th  century.] 

44  M.  Wtsstn,  also  connected  by  diligence  with  (IO1/2  M.)  Al- 
tenkirchen.  A  little  farther,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Sieg,  rises 
the  old  chateau  of  Schomttin,  the  property  of  Prince  Hatzfeld- 
Wildenburg. 

At  (51 V2  M.)  Betadorf  the  line  divides:  that  to  the  left  runs 
to  Siegen  (in  V2  hr.,  see  p.  52  and  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany)-, 
that  to  the  right  to  Giessen. 

The  line  to  Wetzlar  and  Giessen  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Heller 
to  (56  M.)  Herdorf,  (58  M.)  Neunkirchen,  and  (63  M.)  Burbaeh, 
crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Heller  and  the  Dill  near  Wur- 
gersdorf,  and  threads  its  way  through  the  Hiekengrund.  It  next 
enters  the  Dill  thai.   73  M.  Haiger. 

771/2  M.  Dillenburg  (Hirseh;  Frankfurter  Hof),  a  picturesque 
town  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  that  name,  in  which  William  of 
Orange,  the  liberator  of  the  Netherlands,  was  born  in  1533.  A 
tower,  erected  to  his  memory  by  Holland  and  Nassau  in  1872-75, 
commands  an  extensive  prospect  (adm.  30  pf.). 

8OV2  M.  Herborn  (670  ft. ;  Metzler),  with  an  old  castle,  now 
a  seminary ;  84  M.  Sinn.  Beyond  (89  M.)  Ehringshawen  the  line 
enters  the  Lahnthal,  and  unites  with  the  Nassovian  Railway  (from 
Lahnstein  to  Wetzlar,  R.  27). 

95  M.  Wetzlar,  see  p.  199. 

The  line  now  ascends  the  Lahn ,  crosses  the  frontier  of  Hessen 
near  Dutenhofen,  and  unites  with  the  Main-Weser  line  at  Giessen. 
The  ruins  of  Oleiberg  and  Fetzberg  are  seen  on  the  left. 

103  M.  Giessen  (*Kuhne,  near  the  station;  *Einhorn;  Rappe; 
Print  Carl  ,•  good  beer  and  fine  view  at  the  Feteenkeller),  situated 
on  the  Lahn,  is  principally  of  modern  origin,  and  contains  14,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  university,  founded  in  1607,  which 
is  attended  by  about  350  students. 

IO8V2  M.  Langgons.  About  3  M.  to  the  left  of  (114  M.)  Butz* 


54     Route  8.  NAUHE1M. 

bach  rise  the  considerable  ruiDs  of  the  castle  of  Munzenberg,  de- 
stroyed in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  higher  (145  ft)  of  its  two 
towers  commands  an  extensive  view. 

120  M.  Nauheim.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  ds  i/Eubope  ;  Bellkvuk  ;  Kdr- 
saal;  Dbutsches  Haus;  Goldener  Engel;  Ibukg.  —  Lodgings,  6-30  m. 
per  week. 

Restaurants.    Never  Cursaal;  Cafe"  Qermania;  Cafe"  de  Paris. 

Visitors'  Tax  for  stay  of  more  than  5  days,  1  pers.  10m.,  each  ad- 
ditional member  of  a  family  5  m. 

Gabs.  Per  drive,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  50  pf.,  3-4  pers.  70  pf.}  two-horse 
70  pf.  or  1  m.  5  pf.    Per  hour:  2  m.  5.  2  m.  75,  4  m.  90,  or  o  m.  15  pf. 

Nauheim,  a  small  town  of  3000  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  N.E.  slope  of  the  Taunus  Mts.,  with  regular  streets  f  shady 
avenues,  and  pleasure-grounds,  has  of  late  become  a  favourite 
watering-place,  visited  by  5-6000  guests  annually.  The  warm 
saline  springs,  which  are  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid 
gas,  have  been  known  for  centuries,  but  did  not  begin  to  attract 
visitors  until  about  1840.  Extensive  evaporating-houses  and  salt- 
pans. The  waters  of  the  Friedrich-  WiUielms-Sprudel  (95°  Fahr.), 
the  Qro98e&prudel($0°),  and  the  Kleine  Sprudel  (84°)  are  used 
for  the  baths,  which  are  admirably  fitted  np.  The  Curbrunnen, 
Carlsquelle  (somewhat  resembling  the  Rakoczy  of  Kissingen),  and 
the  Ludusigsquelle  (alkaline)  are  drinking-springs.  Adjoining  the 
Trinkhalle,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  are  several  greenhouses.  At 
the'  foot  of  the  Johannisberg,  about  xj%  M.  from  the  station,  is  the 
handsome  Conversationshaus,  with  elegant  rooms  and  a  fine  terrace. 
Oomp.  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 

The  train  skirts  the  Gradirhauser('evaporating-houses'),  crosses 
a  lofty  viaduct,  and  reaches  — 

122  M.  Friedberg  (Hdtel  Trapp),  a  Hessian  district-town  with 
4300  inhab.,  once  a  free  imperial  town.  The  Protestant  Lieb- 
frauenkirche  is  an  interesting  Gothic  structure,  built  in  1290-1350, 
with  towers  dating  from  the  15th  century.  See  Baedekers  Northern 
Germany. 

127  M.  Nieder-  Wollstadt.  To  the  right  rise  the  Taunus  Mts. 
130  M.  Grost-Karben ;  132  M.  Dortelweil;  134»/2  M.  Vilbel,  near 
which  the  Nidda  is  crossed ;  1 37  M.  Bonames,  station  for  Homburg 
(p.  215) ;  141  M.  Bockenheim,  with  a  watch-tower. 

143  M.  Frankfort,  see  p.  200. 

9.  The  Rhine  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  44,  56. 

Steamboat  (about  59  M.)  in  7-8hrs.  (down  4Y2-5hrs.),  fares  3m.  60, 2  m. 
40  pf.  Piers  at  Bonn,  Konigswinter,  Rolandseck,  Remagen ,  Linz,  Ander- 
nach,  and  Neuwied-,  small-boat  stations  at  Plittersdorf-Godesberg ,  Unkel, 
Nieder -Breisig,  Brohl,  St.  Sebastian,  etc.  —  Gabs,  etc.,  at  Cologne,  see 
pp.  22, 23.  —  Railway  (57  M.)  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  30,  5  m.  25,  3  m.  70  pf.), 
see  R.  10. 

In  the  following  routes  r.  and  I.  indicate  the  position  of  towns,  and 
other  objects,  with  regard  to  the  traveller  ascending  the  river.    The  Left 


SCHWARZ-RHEINDORF.         9.  Route.     55 

Rhenish  and  Bight  Rhenish  railways,  however,  are  named  after  the  left 
(W.)  and  right  (E.)  banks  respectively  with  regard  to  the  traveller  de- 
scending the  river. 

Soon  after  the  steamer  has  quitted  the  majestic  city  of  Cologne, 
with  its  cathedral,  numerous  towers,  and  lofty  bridge,  the  chateau 
of  Btnsberg  (p.  21) ,  on  an  eminence  9  M.  to  the  left ,  comes  in 
sight.  About  %  M.  to  the  E.  rises  the  Erdenburg,  a  hill  surmount- 
ed by  remnants  of  a  wall,  believed  to  be  of  ancient  Germanic  origin. 
Several  small-boat  stations  (Port,  Swrth,  Weeding ,  Lulsdorf,  Widdig, 
and  Mondorf)  now  follow,  which  the  express  steamers  pass  without 
stopping.  Opposite  the  island  of  Qraupenwerth,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sieg,  lies  Qrau-Rhemdorf.  On  the  hill-side,  to  the  left,  several  miles 
inland,  rises  the  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey  of  Siegburg  (p.  52). 

On  the  left  we  soon  perceive  the  church  of  Sohwwx-Rheindorf , 
a  carious  structure,  consisting  of  two  stories,  consecrated  in  1151 
by  Archbishop  Arnold  of  Wied,  who  is  buried  here.  Beneath  the 
dome  is  an  octagonal  aperture  between  the  stories,  10  ft.  in  dia- 
meter, so  that  persons  in  the  upper  can  distinctly  hear  the  service 
performed  in  the  lower.  The  object  of  this  singular  arrangement 
has  never  been  satisfactorily  explained.  Interesting  mural  paintings 
of  the  12th  cent,  were  discovered  in  the  lower  church  a  few  years 
ago  during  the  restoration  of  the  building  (comp.  p.  xxix).  The  ex- 
terior is  also  worthy  of  inspection,  especially  the  remarkably  elegant 
miniature  gallery  which  runs  round  the  upper  part  of  the  church' on 
the  E.  side. 

To  the  right  we  next  observe  the  Jesuitenhof,  and  then  the 
Wiehelshof  (p.  72).  As  the  steamboat  approaches  Bonn,  the  charms 
of  the  scenery  of  the  Rhine  gradually  begin  to  present  themselves. 
The  lofty  tower  of  the  Munster,  the  handsome  residences  on  the 
Rhine  above  the  town,  the  long  buildings  of  the  University  peeping 
from  among  the  trees,  and  the  grounds  of  the  'Alte  ZolF  give  the 
town  a  very  attractive  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  steamboat. 

r.  Bonn,  see  Route  12. 

After  Bonn  is  quitted  we  enter  the  most  picturesque  and  famous 
portion  of  the  river.  Ramersdorfj  to  the  left,  with  woods  in  the 
background,  was  formerly  a  lodge  of  the  knights  of  the  Teutonic 
Order,  the  chapel  of  which  was  removed  to  the  cemetery  at  Bonn 
(p.  75). 

1.  Obercassel,  and  railway-ferry  to  Bonn,  see  p.  68. 

r.  Flitter 8dorf  (Restaurant  Mundorf,  with  'pension'),  station  for 
Oodesberg  (p.  66),  1  M.  to  the  S.W. 

1.  Niederdollendorf,  see  p.  68. 

On  the  right  rises  the  handsome  tower  of  the  ruined  castle  of 
Oodesberg  (p.  66),  on  an  eminence,  iy2  M.  from  the  Rhine.  On 
the  bank  lies  Riingsdorf. 

1.  Kdnigswinter  (150  ft.;  p.  76),  beyond  which  rises  the 
*Prachenfeli.  Ascent  of  the  latter,  and  the  Seven  Mountains ,  see 
pTTTeTseql 


56     Route  9.  ROLANDSECK.  From  Cologne 

r.  Hehlem  (Stern ;  Krone),  a  small  village,  with  a  modern  Ro- 
manesque church  and  numerous  country-houses  standing  in  gardens, 
is  a  railway-station  (p.  66),  and  is  connected  with  Konigswinter  by 
a  ferry. 

To  the  left,  at  first  concealed  by  the  islands,  lie  Rhondorf, 
high  above  which  towers  the  ruin  on  the  Drachcnfels  (908  ft. 
above  the  Rhine ;  see  p.  78),  Rommersfforf,  farther  back,  on  the 
slope  of  the  hill,  and  the  scattered  village  of  Honnef  (p.  69). 

The  steamer  next  passes  the  islands  of  (r.)  Ifonncnwerth.  or 
BolandBwerth,  and  (1.)  Qrafcnwerth.  On  the  former,  peeping  from 
the  midst  of  trees ,  stands  an  extensive  nunnery  of  very  ancient 
origin,  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  a  document  of  the  12th  cen- 
tury. The  nunnery  was  suppressed  in  1802 ,  but  was  re-opened  in 
1845  as  a  girls'  school  under  the  auspices  of  Franciscan  nuns  (closed 
at  present).  The  present  buildings  with  the  tower  were  erected 
after  a  fire  in  1673,  and  a  handsome  new  wing  was  added  in  1869. 

r.  ggJftBdflflfik.  —  Hotels.  Hotel  Billau,  at  the  pier;  *H6tbl 
Rolandsbck}  'Hotel  Roland  ;  all  with  gardens  and  view.  *H6tel  Dbckks, 
unpretending,  pension  4  m. 

Restaurants.  Schlep;  Railway  Restaurant,  with  fixed,  but  high  charges, 
magnificent  "View  from  the  terrace. 

Boat  to  Nonnenwerth  and  back  l1/*  m. ;  to  Rhondorf  and  back  l1/*  m.  * 
to  Konigswinter  2V»-3  m.  Ferry  to  Honnef  5  pf.  —  Donkey  to  the  Ro- 
land's Arch  75  pf.,  horse  1  m. ;  to  the  tower  1  m.  50  pf. ;  for  the  return 
ride  V«  to  V*  more. 

Rolandscckij&il.  stat.),  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  first  consider- 
able heights  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Rhine,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  frequented  spots  on  the  river,  and  is  surrounded  with  numerous 
villas  and  pleasant  gardens,  chiefly  belonging  to  wealthy  merchants 
from  the  Lower  Rhine,  and  extending  along  the  wooded  slopes  at  the 
back  of  the  village.  Ascending  from  the  station,  by  the  H6tel  Ro- 
land, and  passing  a  pavilion  on  the  hill,  we  arrive  in  */4  hr.  at 
the  Rolandsbogen,  or  *Roland  Aroh  (500 ft.  above  the  sea),  the 
last  relic  of  the  CasUe  of  Rolandseck,  perched  on  a  basaltic  rock , 
344  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  The  *View  hence,  whioh  is  seen  to  best 
advantage  by  evening  light,  is  less  extensive  than  that  from  the 
Drachenfels,  but  more  picturesque,  as  it  embraces  the  Seven  Moun- 
tains. 

The  castle  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  knight  Roland,  the  paladin 
of  Charlemagne,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Ronceval.  The  earliest  histori- 
cal mention  of  it  is  in  a  document  of  1040  or  1045,  where  it  is  called 
Rulcheseck;  the  convent  on  the  island  was  named  Rulcheswerth.  In  1120 
Archbishop  Frederick  partially  restored  the  ruin  for  the  purpose  of  de- 
fending his  dominions  against  Henry  IV.  The  fortress  stood  till  the  close 
of  the  15th  cent.,  when  it  fell  entirely  to  decay.  The  beautiful  legend 
connected  with  the  castle  and  convent  may  be  thus  briefly  told:  — 

The  brave  knight  Roland,  scouring  the  Rhine  in  search  of  adventure, 
found  himself  the  guest  of  Count  Henbert,  lord  of  the  Seven  Mountains, 
at  his  castle  of  Drachenburg.  According  to  custom  the  daughter  of  the 
.host,  the  peerless  Hildegunde,  welcomed  aim  with  the  offering  of  bread, 
wine,  and  fish.  Her  beauty  riveted  the  gaze  of  the  young  knight,  and 
Hildegunde  and  Roland  were  shortly  affianced  lovers.  But  their  happiness 
was  brief:  Roland  was  summoned  by  Charlemagne  to  the  crusade.    Time 


.14     $^3«jS 


to  Coblenz.  REMAGEN.  9.  Route.    57 

sped  ob,  and  anxiously  did  Hildegunde  await  his  return.  But  aad  rumours 
came.  The  brave  Roland  was  said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of  the  In- 
fidels, and  the  world  no  longer  possessing  any  charm  for  the  inconsolable 
Hildegunde,  she  took  refuge  in  the  (Kloster'  in  the  adjacent  island  of 
Nonnenwerth.  The  rumours,  however,  of  the  death  of  her  betrothed  were 
unfounded.  Although  desperately  wounded ,  he  recovered,  and  hastened  to 
the  halls  of  Drachenburg  to  claim  his  bride \  but  instead  of  being  welcom- 
ed back  by  her  fondly  remembered  smile,  he  found  that  she  was  for  ever 
lost  to  him.  In  despair  he  built  the  castle,  of  which  one  crumbling  arch 
alone  remains,  and  there  lived  in  solitude,  catching  an  occasional 
glimpse  of  a  fair  form  passing  to  and  fro  to  ner  devotions  in  the  little 
chapel  of  the  Kloster.  At  length  he  missed  her,  and  soon  the  tolling  of 
the  bell  and  a  mournful  procession  conveyed  to  him  the  heart-rending  in- 
telligence that  his  beloved  Hildegunde  was  now  indeed  removed  for  ever. 
From  that  moment  Roland  never  spoke  again ;  for  a  short  time  he  drag- 
ged on  his  wretched  existence,  but  his  heart  was  broken,  and  one  morning 
he  was  found  rigid  and  lifeless,  his  glassy  eye  still  turned  towards  the 
convent  chapel. 

The  modern  tower  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  l/2  M-  to  the  W.  of  the 
ruin,  affords  a  wider  prospect,  embracing  Godesberg,  the  lower  hills 
of  the  Seven  Mts. ,  and  the  plain  between  Bonn  and  Cologne.  The  key 
may  be  procured  from  the  proprietor,  Herrvom  Rath,  who  lives  oppo- 
site the  Hotel  Roland ;  on  Sundays  the  custodian  is  generally  at  the 
tower  (25-50  pf.). 

About  V2  M.  from  the  tower  is  the  Roderbtrg,  a  crater,  340  yds.  in 
diameter,  and  60  ft.  in  depth,  with  a  rounded  margin.  The  bottom  is 
now  arable  land,  belonging  to  the  farm  of  Bntchhof. 

i.  Oberwirticz  (Post).  The  retrospect, hence  is  one  of  the  finest 
on  the  Rhine.  Rolandseck,  and  the  Drachenfels  with  its  castle, 
the  cliffs  of  the  Wolkenburg ,  and  the  whole  of  the  peaks  of  the 
Seven  Mts.,  upwards  of  thirty  in  number,  form  a  picture  of  incom- 
parable beauty,  while  the  lovely  island  of  Nonnenwerth  and  the 
grand  river  itself  constitute  the  foreground.  On  the  right  bank  is 
the  flattened  summit  of  the  Lowenburg,  with  its  ruin.  The  isolated 
cone  to  the  extreme  right  is  the  Hemmerich. 

In  1846  one-half  of  the  Birgeler  Kopf,  a  hill  on  the  bank  opposite 
Unkel,  became  detached  and  was  precipitated  towards  the  Rhine. 
Traces  of  the  slip  are  still  observable. 

1.  Rheinbreitbach  (*Clouthy  with  'pension'  and  garden),  a  fa- 
vourite summer-resort,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  a  wide  valley,  which 
extends  from  the  Rhine  to  the  Siebengebirge  (comp.  p.  69).  Fine 
view  from  the  Heilig,  a  hill  surmounted  with  a  cross,  Y2  M,  from 
Rheinbreitbach. 

1.  Unkel  (Clasen;  also  rail,  stat.)  is  a  prosperous  village,  between 
which  and  Remagen  the  Rhine  describes  a  wide  curve.  A  little  in- 
land is  the  village  of  Scheuren.  Of  the  numerous  country-houses 
situated  on  both  banks  of  the  river ,  the  most  conspicuous  is  the 
chateau  of  Marienfels,  V2  M.  below  the  Apollinariskirche. 

r.  Bemagen.  —Hotels.  *H6tbl  Fob8tbnbbbo  andKCNio  von  Pbbussbn, 
on  the  Rhine,  both  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  with  gardens,  first- 
class,  and  often  crowded  in  summer;  Rhein-H6tel,  on  the  Rhine,  next 
door  to  the  Fiirstenberg  Hotel.  —  Dedtscher  Kaiser,  at  the  station,  B. 
17s  m.,  B.  60  pf. ',  Hotel  Fassbendeb,  Hotel  Monjau,  and  Hotel  Cbajcbr, 


58     Route  9.  REMAGEN.  From  Cologne 

all  in  the  principal  street,  with  restaurants;  Hokstmann,  at  the  railway- 
station  ;  Zum  Apollinarisberg,  a  little  below  the  town,  moderate. 

Carriages.  To  the  ApollinaHskirche,  one-horse  1  m.  25  pf.,  two-horse 
lm.  50pf. ;  to  Rolandseck  4  or  6  m.,  there  and  hack  7  m.  or  10  m.  50 pf. ;  to 
Altenahr  10  m.  or  13  m.  50  pf.,  there  and  back  14  or  18  m.,  or  spending 
a  night  there  15  or  21  m.  •,  Laacher  See  and  back  14  m.  50  pf.  or  18  m.,  by 
Andernach  18  or  22  m. 

Remagen  (rail,  stat.),  a  small  town  with  3000  inhab.,  situated 
13  M.  above  Bonn  and  22  M.  below  Coblenz,  is  an  excellent  starting- 
point  for  excursions.  It  is  mentioned  as  Rigomagus  in  the  Peutinger 
map  of  Roman  roads  (see  p.  xxiv),  and  Roman  mile-stones,  now 
preserved  at  Mannheim  and  Bonn,  have  been  found  here.  Remagen 
was  a  place  of  some  importance  in  the  middle  ages,  but  declined 
after  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  It  once  belonged,  like  Sinzig,  to  the 
duchy  of  Jiilich ;  in  1624  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Pfalz-Neu- 
burg,  and  afterwards  into  that  of  Pfalz-Baiern,  or  the  Bavarian  Pa- 
latinate. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
with  a  Romanesque  nave  and  a  Gothic  choir,  consecrated  in  1246. 
In  the  interior  are  a  handsome  Gothic  canopy  and  several  sculp- 
tures of  the  15th  century.  The  Romanesque  Portal  adjoining  the 
Roman  Catholic  parsonage,  adorned  with  grotesque  sculptures  of  the 
12th  cent.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  Whether  it  originally  belonged 
to  a  palace  or  a  church  is  unknown.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
is  a  new  Protestant  Church,  in  the  Gothic  style. 

A  road  to  the  right  near  the  Protestant  church  crosses  the  rail- 
way and  the  high-road  and  ascends  through  a  hollow  bordered  by 
shady  footpaths  (donkey  1  m. ;  for  the  whole  excursion  2  m.  50  pf.) 
to  the  (20  min.)  summit  of  the  Tictoria-Berg,  with  promenades, 
benches,  and  several  different  points  of  view  (Victoria-Tempel,  with 
a  restaurant,  Eremitage,  Hofreiden,  Ahrplatte),  commanding  a 
charming  and  varied  prospect,  especially  by  evening  light.  In  the 
foreground  is  the  Apollinariskirche,  by  which  the  visitor  may  re- 
turn to  the  town. 

Immediately  below  Remagen  a  broad  road,  diverging  to  the  left 
from  the  high-road,  ascends  the  Apollinarisberg,  a  rock  of  clay- slate, 
rising  abruptly  from  the  road.  On  the  way  up  is  seen  a  Roman 
votive  stone,  now  built  into  the  wall,  which  was  found  during  the 
construction  of  the  railway,  and  bears  an  inscription  referring  to 
Mercurius  Ambiomarcis.  The  Apollinarisberg  is  crowned  by  the 
elegant  Gothic  four-towered  *  Apollinariskirche,  erected  in  1839  by 
Zwirner,  the  late  eminent  architect  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne,  at 
the  expense  of  Count  Furstenberg  -  Stammheim  (d.  1859).  This 
little  church  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  and  much  frequented 
pilgrimage-shrine.  In  1164  Frederick  Barbarossa  is  said  to  have 
presented  the  head  of  the  highly  revered  St.  Apollinarig,  Bishop  of 
Ravenna,  to  Archbishop  Rein  aid  von  Dassele  of  Cologne,  who  was 
in  the  act  of  conveying  it  to  Cologne,  together  with  the  relics  of 
the  Magi,  when  by  some  miraculous  agency  the  vessel  which  con- 


to  Coblenz.  LINZ.  9,  Route.     59 

tained  them  stopped  in  the  middle  of  the  river  here,  and  refused 
to  proceed  until  the  head  of  the  holy  man  had  been  deposited  in  a 
chapel  recently  erected  on  the  Apollinarisberg.  (It  is  now  in  the 
crypt.) 

The  church  u  open  daily  9V2-12,  and  3-6  o'clock*  on  Saturdays  and 
the  eves  of  festivals  9V*-12,  and  2-4,  on  8nnday8  and  holidays  11-12,  and 
1-3  o'clock  (admission,  30  pf.).  The  *Intbeiob  is  adorned  with  ten  large 
"Frescoes  in  the  best  style  of  modern  German  religious  painting. 

On  the  left,  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Saviour,  by  Deger  and  Itten- 
bach,  on  the  right,  from  the  life  of  the  Virgin;  central  scene,  Women 
of  the  Old  Testament,  by  MVUer;  below,  Meeting  of  St.  Joachim  and  St. 
Anna,  and  Mary  ascending  the  steps  of  the  Temple,  by  Ittenbach.  In  the 
6.  transept,  St.  Apollinaris  consecrated  bishop,  and  miraculous  resuscita- 
tion of  a  girl ;  in  the  N.,  destruction  of  idols ,  death  and  beatitude  of  the 
saint,  and  a  Crucifixion.  In  the  choir  on  the  right,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  \ 
left,  the  Resurrection.  On  the  external  side  of  the  arch,  on  the  right,  St.  Jo- 
seph, on  the  left ,  "Mary  and  the  Child,  by  Deger.  In  the  Chancel  the  Saviour 
with  the  Virgin  and  St.  John  the  Baptist,  by  Deger,  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Apollinari*  with  the  four  Evangelists,  by  Ittenbach.  —  The  Crypt  contains 
the  sarcophagus  of  the  saint,  of  the  i4th  cent.,  surmounted  by  a  modern 
statue  by  Stephen*  of  Cologne.  In  the  adjoining  chapel  is  a  painted  cruci- 
fix carved  by  Veit  Slots. 

Just  before  turning  to  the  right  to  reach  the  chapel  we  pass  a 
finger-post  indicating  the  way  to  the  top  of  the  Victoria  -  Berg 
(p.  58;  after  5  min.  ascend  to  the  right),  which  is  reached  hence 
in  20-25  minntes. 

Railway  from  Remagen  to  Ahrweiler,  see  p.  81. 

Heppingen  and  the  Landskron  are  reached  by  the  road  by  which  the 
traveller  has  ascended  the  Apollinarisberg,  and  which  he  follows  to  the 
right  after  returning  to  it  from  the  church  (see  p.  82). 

Opposite  Remagen,  near  Erpel  (rail,  stat.;  *  Weinberg,  with  ve- 
randa), rises  the  Erpeler  Lei  (666  ft.  above  the  sea,  502  ft.  above 
the  Rhine),  a  basaltio  cliff,  the  columns  of  which  are  thicker  than 
those  of  the  Minderberg  and  Dattenberg  quarries  (see  below) ;  fine 
view  from  the  top  (ascent  from  the  N.  side,  in  25  min.).  Above 
Erpel  are  (1.)  Kasbach,  and  Linzerhausen,  the  latter  commanded  by 
the  ivy-clad  rains  of  OekenfeU. 

1.  Linz  (rail.  stat. ;  *Wein8tock,  near  the  station,  with  a  gar- 
den on  the  Rhine,  'pens.'  4^2  m. ;  Hdtel  Hammer  stein ;  Deutscher 
Kaiser),  an  ancient  town  of  the  Electorate  of  Cologne  with  3000 
inhab.,  is  still  partly  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  The  Roman- 
esque *Church  of  St.  Martin,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  with  a 
Gothic  spire  and  other  Gothic  additions  of  the  16th  cent.,  contains 
fine  stained  glass  and  an  admirable  winged  picture  of  the  old  Cologne 
school  (1463) ,  representing  the  Annunciation  and  Crucifixion  on 
the  outer  wings,  the  Annunciation  and  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  on 
the  inner,  and  the  Nativity,  Adoration,  Presentation  in  the  Temple, 
and  Christ  appearing  to  his  mother  in  the  centre.  This  picture  and 
the  old  frescoes  were  restored  in  1850.  Fine  view  from  the  Do- 
natusberg,  or  Kaiserberg^  which  is  crowned  with  a  chapel.  The  en- 
virons of  Linz  yield  good  red  wine. 

The  extensive  *Baaftlt  Quarries  of  Dattenberg  and  the  Minderberg  near 
Lina  deserve  inspection,  especially  the  latter.    The  road  to  the  *Mikdkb- 


60     Route  9.  ARENFELS.  From  Cologne 

berg  ascends  the  valley  to  the  E.,  past  the  SternerhiUte.  (Near  the  latter 
is  a  chateau  of  the  Prince  of  Salm-Kyrburg ;  above  it  the  Rmneberg  with  a 
tower  on  the  summit.)  From  the  SternerhiUte  the  path  ascends  to  the  left, 
and  the  quarry  soon  comes  in  view.  It  is  a  spacious  hall  of  beautiful 
black  prismatic  columns  of  basalt,  square  or  hexagonal  in  form,  some  of 
them  upright,  others  heaped  together  in  confused  masses,  each  3-10  in. 
in  diameter,  and  sometimes  20  ft.  in  length.  When  struck  they  produce 
a  clear  metallic  ring.  The  "View  from  the  height  above  this  quarry  (1420  ft. 
above  the  sea,  1256  ft.  above  the  Rhine)  is  very  fine.  The  traveller  should 
now  return  by  the  Kasbachthal  towards  the  W.,  at  the  mouth  of  wliicb. 
there  is  a  tramway  for  the  transport  of  the  stone  from  the  hill  down  to 
the  valley  (guide  unnecessary).  The  whole  excursion  from  Linz  and  back 
takes  about  3  hrs. 

The  columns  in  the  quarry  of  *Dattenbrbg,  situated  in  a  side-valley 
about  1  M.  above  Linz,  are  as  high  as  those  at  Minderberg,  but  much 
thicker.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  here  also.  These  basalts  are  chiefly 
exported  to  Holland,  where  they  are  used  in  the  construction  of  dykes. 

From  (r.)  Krippe,  a  small  village  on  the  Rhine,  connected  with 
Linz  by  a  ferry ,  a  path  leads  past  the  estate  of  Oodenhaua  to  the 
Mineral  Spring  of  Sinzig,  which  contains  carbonate  of  soda,  and  is 
free  from  iron. 

Between  Remagen  and  Nieder-Breisig  the  Rhine  describes  a 
curve  which  the  railway  and  road  cut  off.  The  beautiful  church  of 
(r.)  Sinzig  (p.  65,  on  the  railway,  1^2  M.  from  the  river)  is  visible 
from  the  steamboat. 

We  now  pass  (r.)  the  mouth  of  the  Akr  (p.  81).  The  village 
of  Dattenberg  (see  above)  is  next  seen  peeping  from  a  ravine  on  the 
left.  On  the  same  bank  lies  Leubsdorf  with  the  Saalhof,  a  small 
building  with  four  turrets,  anciently  a  royal  chateau.  Near  it  Aricn- 
dorf,  with  a  chateau  of  Herr  v.  Lorch. 

On  the  left  we  next  observe  the  castle  of  Arenfels,  erected  by 
Henry  of  Isenburg ,  and  named  by  him  after  his  wife  the  Countess 
of  Are.  It  is  now  the  property  of  Count  Westerholt,  by  whom  it  was 
handsomely  restored  under  the  directions  of  Zwirner,  the  architect 
of  Cologne  cathedral.  Interior  shown  to  visitors  on  Wednesdays.  The 
Rittersaal  contains  some  fine  old  weapons  and  pictures,  and  the 
grounds  (open  to  the  public)  command  beautiful  views.  —  The 
Malbergskopf  (1290  ft. ;  H/2  h*.  from  Honningen),  crowned  with  a 
cross  in  commemoration  of  the  events  of  1870-71,  commands  an 
extensive  prospect. 

1.  Honningen  (*Zum  Schloas  Arenfels ;  also  rail,  stat.),  at  the 
foot  of  Arenfels,  and  Rheinbrohl  (Krone ;  Traube),  with  a  hand- 
some modern  Gothic  Church,  are  large  villages,  situated  in  a  fertile 
plain,  beyond  which  the  mountains  to  the  left  rise  more  abruptly 
from  the  river. 

r.  Nieder-Breisig  (also  rail.  stat. ;  p.  65)  lies  opposite  Hon- 
ningen. Near  the  S.  end  of  the  village  stands  part  of  the.  Tempel- 
hof,  an  old  Templars'  Lodge.  About  l3/4  M.  higher  up ,  a  path 
ascends  the  wooded  hill  to  the  chateau  of  — 

r.  Rheineck,  the  carriage  -  road  to  which  winds  up  the  N.  and 
W.  sides  of  the  hill ;  011  the  Rhine,  far  below,  lies  the  hamlet  of 


toCoblen*.  ANDERNACH.  9.  Routt.     61 

Thai  Bheineck.  The  square  tower,  65  ft.  in  height,  on  the  E.  side, 
is  the  only  relic  of  the  old  castle,  erected  in  the  12th  cent.,  which 
was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  by  the  troops  of  the 
Electorate  of  Cologne  in  1692,  and  finally  burned  in  1785.  The 
knights  of  the  castle  became  extinct  in  1548.  The  new  chateau, 
in  the  round-arch  style,  the  property  of  Herr  von  Bethmann-Hollweg, 
was  erected  in  1832  by  Lassaulx. 

The  Intkkiob  (to  which  visitors  are  generally  admitted ;  fee  for  1  pen. 
50-75  pf.,  a  party  2-3  m.)  contains  several  works  of  art.  Picture  by  Begat, 
representing  Emp.  Henry  IV.  in  the  court  of  the  chateau  of  Oanossa.  In 
the  chapel  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount  and  the  Beatitudes  by  BteinU, 
frescoes,  1839-40.  Crucified  Christ  in  marble,  by  AehUrmann  of  Borne.  The 
"View  from  the  garden  (always  open)  embraces  the  course  of  the  Rhine 
from  Andernach  to  the  Apollinarisberg. 

On  the  right,  the  Brohlbach  falls  into  the  Rhine  at  Brohl  {*PeUr 
Brohl ;  *Nonn  Sen. ;  *Nonn  Jun. ;  also  railway -station) ,  which  ad- 
joins the  hamlet  of  Nippes,  and  is  the  depdt  for  the  tuffstone 
quarried  In  the  BrohUhal.  Excursion  through  the  Brohlthal  to 
Loach  (one-horse  carriage  8  m. ;  gratuity  extra),  see  p.  87. 

1.  Nieder-HammersUin  (Zwick),  yielding  good  wine ;  then  Obtr- 
Hammerstein  (Zux  Burg  Hammerstein),  near  which  rises  a  massive 
rock  of  grauwacke,  crowned  with  the  ruin  of  HammersUin*  The 
Emp.  Henry  IV.  resided  In  this  castle  for  some  time  when  perse- 
cuted by  his  son  Henry  V.,  and  here  he  kept  the  imperial  insignia 
till  their  removal  by  his  usurping  successor.  During  the  Thirty 
Years1  War  the  castle  was  successively  occupied  by  Swedes,  Span- 
iards, troops  of  Cologne,  and  soldiers  of  Lorraine,  and  it  was  at 
length  destroyed  in  1660  by  the  Archbishop  of  Cologne,  as  being 
too  powerful  a  neighbour  to  be  tolerated. 

On  the  heights,  4  M.  to  the*  E.  of  the  Rhine,  the  course  of  the  P/ahl- 
grabeny  a  Roman  intrenchment  constructed  as  a  protection  against  the 
attacks  of  the  Germanic  tribes,  is  distinctly  traceable,  and  may  be  followed 
from  Monrepos  (p.  63)  as  tar  as  the  Seven  Jfts.  (comp.  p.  216). 

Above  (r.)  Fomieh  rises  the  Fomicher  Kopf,  an  extinct  volcano 
(see  p.  xix). 

r.  Namedy,  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  possesses  a  small 
Gothic  abbey-church  of  the  15th  cent.,  bisected  by  a  row  of  slender 
columns,  and  an  old  mansion  which  once  belonged  to  the  knights  of 
Namedy.  On  the  left  lies  the  considerable  village  of  Leutesdorf 
(*Moog-Euen;  also  rail,  stat.),  behind  which  rise  productive  vine- 
yards planted  among  the  rocks.  Below  Is  an  old  Gothic  church.  On 
the  right  rises  the  wooded  Krahneribcrg.  The  mountains  which 
confine  the  river  now  recede. 

r.  Andernach  (^Hackenbruch,  Hoch-Str. ;  0 Locke,  Rhein-AUee, 
with  restaurant;  Schdfers  Restaurant,  on  the  Schanzchen,  near 
the  Rhine,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town ;  also  railway-station),  an 
ancient  little  town  with  5000  inhab.,  with  narrow  streets,  and  still 
to  a  great  extent  surrounded  by  its  old  walls,  extends  picturesquely 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  above  which  rise  conspicuously  the  old 
bastion,  the  Rheinthor,  the  crane,  and  the  lofty  tower  at  the  lower 


62     Route  9.  NEUWTED.  From  Cologne 

end  of  the  village,  while  the  handsome  parish-church  with  its  four 
towers  is  visible  in  the  background.  Andernach  was  the  Roman 
Antunnacum,  or  Antonaco,  one  of  the  fifty  forts  of  Drusus.  Subse- 
quently to  the  6th  cent,  it  is  frequently  mentioned  as  a  royal  Fran- 
conian  residence.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  an  Imperial  town,  but 
was  taken  by  the  Electorate  of  Cologne  in  1496 ;  in  1688  it  was 
burned  by  the  French. 

The  *Parish  Churchy  dedicated  to  St.  Genovefa,  with  its  four 
towers  and  richly  decorated  portals,  is  a  fine  late-Romanesque  edifice 
(1206),  without  a  transept.  The  still  earlier  choir,  around  which 
runs  a  gallery  of  small  columns,  dates  from  1120. 

Over  the  aisles  runs  a  triforium.  On  the  vaulting  of  the  nave  are  the 
Imperial  arms,  with  those  of  the  town  and  of  Hermann  IV.,  Archbishop 
of  Cologne  (d.  1506).  Choir  re-decorated  in  1856.  Carved  wooden  pulpit 
brought  in  1807  from  the  Abbey  of  Laach  (p.  89).    Late-Romanesque  font. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  near  the  Coblenzer  Thor,  from  a 
deep  fosse,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  once  fortified  Castle  of  the  electors 
of  Cologne,  with  its  handsome  towers,  erected  in  the  15th  cent., 
and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688.  —  The  Rathhaus,  a  late- 
Gothic  building  of  1564 ,  contains  a  few  Roman  antiquities. 

The  lofty  round  *  Watch-Tower  on  the  Rhine,  with  an  octagonal 
story  above,  adorned  with  a  pointed  frieze,  was  erected  in  1451-68 
and  restored  in  1880.  The  wide  breach  on  the  W.  side  was  made  by 
the  French  cannonade  in  1688.  —  The  picturesque  Crane  on  the 
Rhine  dates  from  1554. 

The  lava  millstones,  the  tufa,  trass,  and  other  volcanic  products  of  the 
neighbourhood,  form  an  important  branch  of  commerce.  —  About  1/2  M. 
inland  from  Andernach  is  the  extensive  Lunatic  Asylum  of  St.  Thomas. 

Railway  from  Andernach  to  May  en,  see  p.  86. 

On  the  hill  above  the  village  of  (1.)  Fahr  (Hufschmidt),  which 
lies  nearly  opposite  Andernach,  is  a  handsome  country-house. 
Farther  up,  on  an  eminence,  stands  the  Romanesque  Feldkirche, 
surrounded  by  fruit-trees;  at  its  base  lies  the  village  of  Irlich, 
near  which  the  Wiedbach  falls  into  the  Rhine.  The  hill  rising  on 
the  opposite  bank,  a  little  inland,  is  the  Plaidter  Hummerich 
(685  ft.).  The  steamboat  next  passes  the  mouth  of  the  Nette  (r.), 
on  which,  */2  M.  inland,  are  the  extensive  mills  of  the  Netter-Hof, 
and  soon  stops  at  the  pleasant  and  thriving  town  of  — 

1.  Neuwied  (*  Anker,  *  Wilder  Mann,  both  on  the  Rhine,  D. 
2*/2xn. ;  *  Moravian  Hotel,  frequented  by  English  travellers ;  Mader, 
at  the  station  of  the  right  bank ;  Hommer,  at  the  station  of  the  left 
bank;  railway  on  both  banks,  comp.  pp.  65,  70).  The  town,  with 
its  broad,  well-built  streets,  was  founded  in  1653,  on  the  site  of 
the  village  of  Langendorf,  which  had  been  destroyed  in  the  Thirty 
Years'  War,  by  Count  Frederick  of  Wied ,  who  invited  numerous 
settlers,  without  distinction  of  religion  or  payment  of  money.  Under 
his  auspices  the  town  rapidly  increased.  The  population  (11,000) 
consists  of  Protestants,  Roman  Catholics  (2000),  Moravian  Brothers, 
Baptists,  and  Jews,  who  have  lived  together  here  in  great  harmony 


to  Coblenz.  NEUWIED.  9.  Route.     63 

since  that  period.  Starch,  chioory,  tobacco,  and  cigars  are  the  prin- 
cipal products.  The  schools  of  Neuwied  enjoy  a  high  reputation, 
and  are  frequented  by  pupils  from  England  as  well  as  from  all  parts 
of  Germany. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town  rises  the  spacious  Palace  of  the 
Prince  of  Wied,  with  its  fine  Park.  A  building  near  the  palace- 
gate,  adjoining  the  street,  contains  a  small  Collection  of  Roman 
Antiquities,  from  Niederbiber  (see  below). 

The  Moravian  Brothers,  also  called  Bermhuier  from  Herrnhut  in 
Saxony,  where  they  had  established  themselves  after  their  expulsion 
from  Moravia  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  occupy  a  separate  part  of 
the  town.  Their  establishments  afford  an  insight  into  the  habits  of  this 
sect  and  are  worthy  of  inspection.  They  were  originally  followers  of 
John  Hubs,  and  their  number  increased  enormously  after  his  death. 
They  now  form  a  kind  of  religious  republic,  having  their  own  laws 
both  for  public  and  private  life,  which  are  administered  by  their  elders. 
The  gravity  and  austerity  of  their  manners  and  habits  has  gained  for 
them  the  appellation  of  the  Quakers  of  Germany.  The  unmarried  brethren 
live  in  a  separate  building,  and  carry  on  different  trades,  the  profits 
of  which  are  devoted  to  the  community.  Fayence  stoves  and  deerskin 
gloves  are  their  best  manufactures.  Visitors  are  readily  admitted,  and 
are  first  conducted  to  the  magazine,  where  they  are  expected  to  make 
some  purchase.  The  establishment  for  the  sisters  is  similarly  conducted. 
They  are  recognised  by  their  peculiar  white  head-dresses,  fastened  with 
ribbons  of  different  colours,  according  to  their  age  and  condition  —  girls 
dark  red.  young  unmarried  women  pink,  married  women  blue,  widows 
white.  At  stated  seasons  Move-feasts'  are  celebrated  in  the  church ,  ac- 
companied by  singing,  prayers,  a  sermon,  and  tea-drinking.  Their  schools 
are  well  attended  and  in  high  repute. 

Excursion  fbom  Neuwied  to  Monrxpos  and  Altwikd.  From  the 
station  of  the  Bight  Rhenish  line  (p.  70)  we  proceed  to  (V*  H.)  Heddet- 
<for/and  turn  to  the  left,  following  the  road  which  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Wied.  At  the  (1  M.)  Rauelttein  Foundry,  the  oldest  puddling  -  work  in 
Germany,  founded  in  1824,  walkers  cross  the  stream  and  traverse  the 
pleasant  park  of  Noihhauaen  ("Restaurant),  following  the  right  bank  to  Segen- 
dorf,  while  the  carriage-road  leads  by  (l1/*  M.)  Niederbiber.  Near  the  latter 
Tillage  in  1791,  1819,  and  1857,  were  excavated  extensive  remains  of  a 
Soman  castle,  one  of  the  largest  on  the  Rhine,  which,  however,  is  not 
mentioned  by  any  Roman  author.  The  objects  of  interest  found  here  are 
preserved  in  the  museum  of  Neuwied,  and  include  the  silver  standard  of 
a  cohort  and  a  stone  erected  in  246  by  the  College  of  the  Victorienses 
Signiferi,  whence  the  fort  was  once  erroneously  supposed  to  have  been 
named  Victoria.  The  excavations  have  since  been  filled  up.  From  (i»/a  M.) 
Stgendorf  a  broad  road  ascends  in  windings ;  but  these  the  pedestrian  may 
avoid  by  taking  the  footpath  to  the  left  above  Segendorf ,  by  which  Mon- 
repos  is  reached  in  SA  br.  The  villa  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  is  the  seat 
of  the  Dowager  Princess  of  Wied. 

Monrepoa  (869  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  a  chateau  of  the  Prince  of 
Wied,  stands  in  a  beautiful  park  and  commands  an  extensive  prospect 
(refreshments  at  the  Hahnhof,  to  the  W.  of  the  chateau).  The  Bolzstost 
(reached  In  10  min.  from  the  back  of  the  Schloss  by  a  path  through  the 
beech  wood  in  a  straight  direction)  affords  a  good  survey  of  a  side-valley  of 
the  Rhine.  A  finer  point  is  the  "Alltcieder  Autsicht,  the  route  to  which  is 
by  the  carriage-road  to  the  E.  of  the  Schloss,  and  then  by  the  third  path 
diverging  to  the  right  (stone  way-post  by  a  large  oak).  Footpaths  descend 
hence  in  20  min.  to  'Altwied  (Mutter)^  a  village  situated  on  the  Wied  about 
2  M.  above  Niederbiber,  and  commanded  by  the  extensive  ivy-clad  ruins 
of  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  ancient  Counts  of  Wied.  —  The  Braunsbur*;, 
1  hr.  to  the  N. W.  of  Niederbiber  (reached  via  Oberbiber) ,  a  ruined  castle 
on  a  wooded  height,  commands  a  picturesque  view. 


64     Route  9.  ENGERS. 

Immediately  above  Neuwied,  on  the  same  bank,  are  the  Her- 
mannshiitti,  the  property  of  Hen  Krupp  of  Essen,  and  the  Otrmania 
foundry.   On  the  opposite  bank  we  next  observe  the  village  of  — 

r.  Weissenthurm,  with  its  small  modern  church.  At  the  N.  end 
of  the  village  rises  a  square  watch-tower,  erected  in  1370  by  Kuno 
von  Falkenstein,  the  extreme  point  of  the  dominions  of  the  Electors 
of  Treves,  which  here  adjoined  those  of  Cologne.  Above  the  village 
stands  an  obelisk  to  the  French  General  Hocke,  who  crossed  the 
Rhine  here  in  1797  with  the  army,  and  shortly  afterwards  died 
suddenly  at  Wetzlar,  at  the  age  of  30. 

Above  Weissenthurm  are  lime-kilns  and  a  manufactory  for  pre- 
paring the  Engers  stone  (see  below) ;  then  Urmit*  and  Kaltencngers, 
opposite  — 

1.  Engers  (Zur  Romerbrucke ;  Restaurant  Wettels,  opposite  the 
railway-station),  formerly  'Kunostein-Engeri,  the  ancient  capital  of 
the  Engersgau.  In  1386  Archbishop  Kuno  von  Falkenstein  (p.  104) 
erected  a  castle  here  with  a  round  tower  (the  ivy-clad  trunk  of 
which  rises  below  the  chateau),  to  protect  the  navigators  of  the  Rhine 
from  the  rapacious  Counts  of  the  Westerwald.  The  adjoining  cha- 
teau, now  a  Prussian  military  school,  was  erected  in  1758  by  Elec- 
tor Johann  Philipp  von  Walderdorf .  To  the  left  a  retrospect  of  Mon- 
repos  is  obtained,  to  the  right  a  view  of  the  Camillenberg  or  Kar- 
melenberg  (1214  ft. ;  4y2  M.  from  the  river),  near  Bassehheim. 

Near  (lj  Muhlhofen,  where  the  Saynbach  falls  into  the  Rhine, 
is  the  foundry  of  that  name;  farther  back  the  Concordia  Foundry. 
On  a  hill  in  the  background  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Sayn  (p.  70). 

On  both  banks  of  the  river  here  is  dug  up  a  peculiar  kind  of  pumice- 
stone  conglomerate  (p.  87).  It  is  cut  into  squares,  mixed  with  mortar, 
and  dried,  and  is  much  valued  as  a  building  material  for  inside  walls. 

1.  Bendorf(j>.  70),  at  some  distance  from  the  river ;  farther  up 
(r.),  the  villages  of  St.  Sebastian  and  Kesselheim,  opposite  the 
island  of  Niederwerth,  which  conceals  the  town  of  (1.)  Vallendar 
(P-  70). 

On  the  long  island  of  Niederwerth  is  a  dilapidated  village,  with 
a  convent-church  built  in  1500,  containing  a  carved  altar-piece 
and  fragments  of  good  stained  glass.  Edward  III.  of  England  re- 
sided here  for  a  short  time  in  1337,  and  had  several  interviews  with 
the  Emp.  Lewis  and  other  princes. 

1.  Mallendar.  On  the  hill  above  the  village  stands  Haus  Besse- 
lichy  once  the  property  of  the  K  nights  Templar,  and  afterwards  an  Aug- 
ustinian  nunnery  down  to  1804,  when  it  was  secularised.  On  the 
hillside,  higher  up  the  river,  is  Urbar,  surrounded  by  fruit-trees. 

r.  Wallersheim,  above  it  Neuendorf,  chiefly  inhabited  by  rafts- 
men. The  smaller  rafts  generally  halt  here  for  the  purpose  of  being 
formed  into  larger ,  which  are  sometimes  800-1000  ft.  in  length 
and  150-250  ft.  in  breadth;  they  are  furnished  with  wooden  huts 
for  the  crew,  which  frequently  numbers  150  men. 


SINZIG.  10.  Route.    65 

The  steamboat  now  pastas  the  base  of  Ehtenbreitstein ,  opposite 
the  influx  of  the  Moselle ,  commanding  a  view  of  the  picturesque 
old  Moselle  bridge,  and  stops  at  Coblea*  (B.  16). 

10.  From  Coblenz  to  Cologne. 

Railway  on  the  Laft  Bank. 
Camp.  Mapty  pp.  44,  66. 

56Vz  M.  Railway  in  2-2»/«  bra.  (fare*  7  m.  30,  5  m.  25,  3  m.  70  pf.).  — 
Railway  on  the  Right  Bank,  see  R.  11. 

Return-ticket*  taken  on  either  side  of  the  rirer  are  available  for  the 
journey  both  going  and  returning  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  the  traveller 
(1st  or  2nd  class)  may  sometimes  find  it  convenient  to  break  his  journey 
and  cross  and  recross  the  river  repeatedly.  The  following  are  the  corre- 
sponding stations :  BingerbrUck  and  RUdesteim,  NiedsrMmbaeh  and  Lorch^ 
St.  Goar  and  St.  Goarshatuen,  Boppard  and  Camp,  Rhens  and  Branbach, 
Capellen  and  MederlaAnstein,  Coblenz  and  EhrenbrHUUin  (crossing  the  rail- 
way bridge  50,  30,  20  pf.  additional),  Neutoitd  on  the  left  and  Neuvoitd  on 
the  right  bank,  Andernach  and  LtuUtdorfy  Ni«d*rbr*itig  and  H6nningen% 
Sinzig  and  Linz,  Remagen  and  Unkel,  Rolandeeck  and  Bonne/ y  Mehlem  and 
Kimig$winier,  Godesberg  and  Obereauely  Bonn  and  Beuel.  Views  to  the  right. 
—  Steamboat,  see  R.  9. 

Coblenz,  see  R.  16.  As  the  train  crosses  the  Moselle  a  line  view 
of  Ehienbreitstein  is  obtained  to  the  right.  At  the  foot  of  the 
fortified  Petersburg  (1.)  Is  the  pyramidal  monument  of  Maroeau 
(p.  95).  The  train  now  traverses  the  extensive  and  fertile  plain 
which  stretches  from  Coblenz  to  Andernach.  At  (5V2  M)  Urmitt 
are  large  stores  of  the  Engers  sandstone  mentioned  at  p.  64. 

8  M.  Heuwied  (steamb.  stat.  see  p.  62).  The  station  is  i/2  M» 
from  tbe  town  on  the  opposite  bank,  with  which  communication  is 
maintained  by  a  steamer  and  a  ferry-boat.  The  train  crosses  the 
NetU,  passes  the  lunatic  asylum  of  St.  Thomas  (1. ;  p.  62),  once  an 
Auguetinian  nunnery,  and  reaches  — 

10 V2  M.  Andernach  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  61.  The  station  is 
l/2  M.  from  the  town,  of  which  the  church,  the  ancient  tower,  and 
walls  are  conspicuous.  (Branch-line  to  Maycn,  see  p.  86.)  Beyond 
Andernach  the  train  skirts  the  river  and  commands  a  fine  *View  in 
both  directions  (comp.  pp.  61,  62). 

Opposite  (15  M.)  Brohl  (Brohlthal,  etc.,  see  R.  15)  is  the  church 
of  Rheinbrohl;  the  train  then  passes  the  foot  of  Gchloss  Rhcincck 
and  (15V2  M.)  Nieder-BreUty  (p.  60) ,  opposite  (r.)  the  castle  of 
Arenfela.  The  line  now  cuts  off  the  wide  curve  which  the  Rhine 
describes  between  Niederbrelsig  and  Remagen. 

20  V2  M .  Sinzig  (Deutaehes  Hants) ,  probably  the  Roman  SmUaeum , 
a  very  ancient  town,  still  partly  surrounded  by  high  walls,  with  2000 
inhab.,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ahrthal  (R.  14),  l*/2  M-  from  the 
river..  It  was  once  the  site  of  a  Franconian  palace ,  afterwards  an 
Imperial  residence,  which  latterly  belonged  to  the  Duke  of  Julieh. 
Picturesquely  situated  on  a  slight  eminence  rises  the  handsome 
*P€trish  Church,  which  was  consecrated  in  1220,  a  fine  example 
of  the  late-Romanesque  style ,  the  round  predominating,  with  very 

Bakdkkxb's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  5 


66     Route  10.  GODESBERG.  From  Coblen* 

slightly  projecting  transepts,  square  turrets  at  the  sides  of  the 
choir,  and  an  octagonal  tower  rising  over  the  centre.  The  interior 
has  recently  been  restored  and  decorated.  The  choir  contains  a 
*Winged  Picture  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  the  Crucifixion  and 
Ascension,  and  the  Death  of  Mary,  by  an  early  Cologne  master,  re- 
stored in  1855.  At  the  foot  of  this  eminence  is  a  tasteful  little 
Gothic  chateau,  built  in  1858  by  Statz  of  Cologne.  On  the  Hclenen- 
berg,  to  the  right  of  the  line,  and  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  rises 
another  country-house  with  pleasant  grounds. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  insignificant  Ahr,  from  the  valley  of 
which  rises  the  blunted  cone  of  the  Landskron  (p.  82).  This 
district  is  extremely  fertile,  and  is  called  the  'Goldene  Meil\ 

23  M.  Bemagen  (steamb.  stat.)  and  the  Apollinariskirche,  see 
pp.  57,  58.  This  is  the  station  for  the  Ahr  Valley  railway  (R.  14). 
The  train  returns  to  the  river  here;  beautiful  *Retrospect.  The 
peculiar  stratification  of  the  rocks  is  exposed  to  view  in  the  rail- 
way-cuttings. The  train  runs  close  to  the  river,  commanding  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  opposite  bank  and  the  Seven  Mountains 
(comp.  p.  57). 

271/2  M.  Rolandseck  (steamb.  stat.;  Rail.  Restaurant,  with 
magnificent  **View,  see  p.  56).  In  the  river  lies  the  island  of 
Nonnenwerth,  a  little  below  which  rise  the  picturesque  Drachen- 
feU  and  the  Seven  Mts.  on  the  Opposite  bank,  forming  the  most 
conspicuous  feature  in  the  landscape  until  Bonn  is  reached. 

The  train  now  quits  the  river  entirely.  30^2  M.  Mehlem,  the 
station  for  Konigswinter  on  the  right  bank  (p.  76 ;  ferry),  is  */*  M. 
from  the  Rhine.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  76. 

32  M.  Godesbdrg  (*Blinzler,  with  garden;  *Adler;  Zur  Guten 
Hoffnung),  a  village  with  2300  inhab.,  situated  at  the  point  where 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine  begins  to  expand,  is  a  favourite  summer 
resort,  where  wealthy  merchants  of  Cologne,  Elberfeld,  and  Crefeld 
have  erected  a  number  of  handsome  villas,  surrounded  by  pleasant 
gardens.  The  Romanesque  Protestant  Church  was  erected  by  a 
wealthy  merchant  of  Crefeld  in  1857;  another,  near  the  station, 
was  built  quite  lately.  The  Roman  Catholic  Church,  in  the  Gothic 
style,  was  completed  in  1862  from  designs  by  Statz.  The  Hydro- 
pathic Establishment  is  much  frequented.  The  alkaline  chaly- 
beate Stahl-Quelle,  sunk  afresh  in  1864,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
small  Oudenauer  Thai,  at  the  foot  of  the  Draischberg,  was  known  to 
the  Romans,  as  is  proved  by  a  votive  tablet  to  ^seulapius,  found 
on  the  castle-hill  in  the  16th  cent.,  and  now  preserved  in  the  mu- 
seum at  Bonn.  The  new  Bath  Establishment  at  the  spring  contains 
forty  bedrooms  and  twenty  bath-rooms.  Pleasant  walks  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

On  an  eminence  (246  ft.),  y2M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  stands 
the  Castle  of  GodeSberg  (400  ft.  above  the  tea),  with  a  handsome 
tower,  98  ft.  high,  which  is  ascended  by  150  steps.  Fine  view  from 


to  Cologne.  BRf)HL.  10.  Route.     67 

the  summit.  The  ruin  belongs  to  the  Empress  of  Germany.  The 
Cemetery  of  the  village  lies  within  the  precincts  of  the  cattle. 

At  the  base  of  the  hill  a  Roman  colony  is  said  once  to  have  flourish- 
ed, while  at  the  summit  rose  a  fort,  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by 
the  Emp.  Julian  (A.D.  360),  and  a  temple  of  Jupiter,  afterwards  a  Chris- 
tian church.  The  castle  was  erected  in  the  13th  and  Uth  cent  by  the 
archbishops  of  Cologne  as  a  place  of  refuge  during  their  frequent  feuds 
with  their  subjects,  who  on  several  occasions  carried  the  war  as  far  as 
Bonn.  In  1563  the  Bavarians,  who  fought  in  support  of  Archbishop  Ernest 
of  Bavaria  against  the  deposed  Gebhard  of  Waldburg,  who  had  become  a 
Protestant,  stormed  and  blew  up  the  castle,  which  was  defended  by  Count 
Adolph  of  Neuenahr,  the  last  of  his  family.  The  tower  alone  escaped 
destruction. 

On  the  right ,  as  Bonn  is  approached ,  immediately  after  the 
train  has  crossed  the  Bonn  and  Coblenz  road,  is  seen  the  *Hoch- 
kreuz,  a  Gothic  column  30  ft.  high,  erected  in  1332-49  to  a  knight, 
who  is  said  to  have  fallen  in  a  duel  at  this  spot,  and  entirely  re- 
stored in  1854. 

On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  the  Rosenburg  (p.  75),  and  farther  off 
the  Krenzberg  (p.  75).  To  the  right  appears  Bonn  with  its  con- 
spicuous new  Protestant  church  and  its  lofty  minster- tower. 

36  M.  Bonn  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  71 ;  railway-ferry  to  Ober- 
cassel,  see  p.  68. 

Near  (40  M.^Roisdorf  rises  a  mineral  spring  resembling  that  of 
Setters.  To  the  W.,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  line,  is  a  chain 
of  low  and  partially  wooded  hills  called  the  Vorgebirge,  on  which 
numerous  villages  with  orchards  and  country-houses  are  situated. 
The  last  vineyards  in  the  land  of  the  grape  are  now  passed.  — 
44  M.  Sechtem ,  whence  a  branch-line  runB  to  the  St.  Pantaleon 
station  (p.  22)  on  the  S.  side  of  Cologne.    Before  reaching  — 

47  M.  Broil  (Pavilion ;  Belvedere  ;  Barion),  the  train  intersects 
the  park  of  Brirhl,  passing  the  chateau  of  FaUcenlust  on  the  right, 
which  was  once  a  hunting-lodge  of  the  electors,  but  is  now  private 
property,  and  stops  opposite  the  royal  Palace  of  BriifU,  a  handsome 
building,  erected  by  Elector  Clement  Augustus  in  1728.  During 
the  French  period  Marshal  Davoust  resided  in  it  for  several  years. 
It  was  restored  in  1842  by  Frederick  William  IV. ,  and  has  since 
been  frequently  occupied  by  the  royal  family.  The  interior  is  shown 
by  the  castellan.  The  finely  decoTated  halls  contain  old  portraits  of 
Rhenish  electors  and  other  princes.  The  garden  and  park  are 
favourite  places  of  resort,  and  are  always  open  to  the  public.  Bruhl 
itself  is  a  small  town  with  3500  inhabitants.  Near  the  station  is  a 
hydropathic  establishment. 

50  M.  KaUckeuren,  junction  for  the  Eifel  Railway  mentioned 
at  p.  181.  The  crowded  houses  of  Cologne  soon  come  in  sight.  The 
train  describes  a  curve  round  part  of  the  town,  above  whose  ramparts 
tower  the  imposing  cathedral  and  other  churches,  intersects  the  old 
fortifications  on  the  N.  side ,  and  enters  the  central  station  at  — 

56y2  M.   Cologne,  see  R.  3. 


68 

11.  From  (Cologne)  Deutz  to  Obercassel  (Bonn)  and 
Ehrenbreitstein  (Coblenz). 

Bailway  on  the  Bight  Bank. 
Comp.  Map,  p.  56. 

56  M.  From  Deutz  to  Troisdorf  in  »/»  hr-  (fares  1  m.  35,  1  m.  10, 
80  pf.);  from  Troisdorf  to  Ehrenbreitstein  in  lVs-27s  hrs.  (fares  5  m.  60, 
4  m.  20,  2  m.  80  pf.).  The  express  train  starts  from  the  Central  Station  at 
Cologne.  —  From  Bonn  by  steam-ferry  to  Obercassel,  thence  to  Ehren- 
breitstein in  lV«-2  hrs.  (fares  5  m.,  3  m.  80,  2  m.  45  pf.). 

The  traveller  bound  for  Coblenz  should  take  a  ticket  to  Ehren- 
breitstein only,  the  station  of  which  is  nearer  the  principal  hotels  of 
Coblenz  than  the  station  of  the  latter.  The  railway  from  Ehrenbreitstein 
to  Coblenz  crosses  the  river  above  the  bridge-of-boats,  describing  a  circuit 
of  nearly  2  M.  (fares  50,  BO,  20  pf.).  It  should  also  be  observed  that  all 
the  quick  through-trains  from  Cologne  to  Bonn,  Coblenz,  Hayence,  and 
Frankfort  run  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  (R.  10). 

From  Cologne  to  (I21/2  M.)  Troisdorf,  see  R.  8.  —  14  M. 
Friedrich-  Wilhelms-Hutte,  an  extensive  foundry,  is  connected  by  a 
branch-line  with  the  small  town  of  Siegburg.  The  train  crosses  the 
Sieg,  and  returns  to  the  Rhine  at  (18  M.)  Beuel  (p.  73),  opposite 
Bonn  (p.  71 ;  omnibus  to  the  bridge-of-boats  or  the  ferry  20  pf.). 

2OV2  M.  Obercassel  (*Wolfsburg;  Rheiniseher  Hof),  a  thriv- 
ing little  town  of  18,000  inhab.,  with  an  old  church- tower  and  a 
large  cement-factory,  lies  on  the  Rhine  amidst  fruit-trees,  and 
affords  pleasant  summer-quarters.  Well-constructed  walks  lead  to 
the  Steinerne  Hauschen  (3/*  M.  from  the  station ;  fine  view),  the 
quarries  of  the  Rabenlei,  Heisterbach  (p.  80;  2  M.),  and  other 
picturesque  points  in  the  neighbourhood.  At  the  village  of  Kuding- 
hofen,  2  M.  to  the  left  of  the  station,  rises  the  Ennert  or  Foveaux- 
Hauschen  (518  ft.),  which  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Adjacent 
are  extensive  basalt  quarries.  —  Obercassel  is  connected  with  the 
Left  Rhenish  Railway  by  a  steam-ferry,  and  our  train  is  here  joined 
by  passengers  from  Bonn.  Travellers  bound  for  Siegburg,  Troisdorf, 
and  Deutz  generally  change  carriages  here,  while  those  for  Bonn 
keep  their  seats  and  are  ferried  across  the  river. 

2272  ML  Dollendorf  is  a  good  starting-point  for  excursions  among 
the  Seven  Mts.  The  station  lies  between  the  villages  of  Nieder- 
Dollendorf  (Krone),  on  the  Rhine,  and  Ober-Dollendorf  (Thiebes), 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Heisterbach  valley.  Heisterbach  (p.  80)  is  17a  M. 
distant  by  the  road.   *View  from  the  Pfaffenrottchen. 

2372  M.  Konigswinter  (p.  76)  is  the  favourite  starting-point 
for  exploring  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Seven  Mts.  The  station 
lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now 
contracts.  The  train  skirts  the  base  of  the  Drachenfels  and  runs 
close  to  the  river. 

26  M.  Rhondorf  (Post;  Hfael- Pension  Drachenfels;  Pension 
Wolkenburg),  a  pleasant  summer  resort,  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Honnef. 
On  the  lateral  wall  of  the  church  is  a  well-preserved  tombstone,  in 
trachyte  from  the  Drachenfels,  of  the  last  knight  of  the  Djaohen- 


HONNEF.  11.  Route.     69 

fels,  with  armorial  bearings  and  date  1530,  brought  here  from  the 
abbey  of  Heisterbach.  —  From  Rhondorf  to  the  Lowenburg,  3y2M., 
see  p.  80;  to  the  Drachenfeb  40  min.,  by  a  new  bridle-path;  to 
Konigs  winter  1  M. 

27  M.  Honnef.  —  Hotel*.  *HdTEL  Klein,  *H6tel-  Pension  Nizza, 
both  with  gardens  and  views  ;  HStel  Wbisbebg  ;  HOtel  oe  Bbb&hes  ;  Zcm 
SiBBBMOBBiRQjt;  Hotel  db  Hollands,  at  the  station.  —  Pension  Adams, 
Pension  Karcher,  both  with  gardens. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  Honnef,  for  1-2  pers.,  one-horse  60, 
two-horse  80  pf.,  each  additional  pers.  25  pf.  •,  to  Rolandseck  Ferry,  one- 
horse  l'A,  two-horse  1*/*  m-  '•>  to  Kbnigswinter  V/z  or  2  m.,  there  and  back 
2l/2  or  3  m.;  to  the  Margareihtnhof  4»/«  or  6  m. ;  to  the  Lduenburger  Ho/ 
6»/a  or  9  m,,  there  and  back  9  or  12  m. ;  for  half-a-day  7  or  12,  whole  day 
12  or  20  m. 

Honnef,  a  scattered  village  with  4300  inhab.,  lies  l/2  M  to  the 
left  of  the  railway,  in  a  luxuriantly  fertile  plain,  about  3  M.  long 
and  1  M.  broad,  which  extends  between  the  S.W.  base  of  the  Seven 
Mts.  and  the  Rhine.  It  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  sunniest  Bpots 
on  the  Rhine,  being  sheltered  from  the  N.  and  £.  winds  by  the 
Seven  Mts.,  and  surrounded  by  vineyards  and  orchards.  Honnef,  as 
well  as  Rhondorf  and  Rheinbreitbach,  has  increased  considerably 
within  the  last  few  years,  and  owing  to  its  genial  climate  and 
pretty  scenery  has  become  a  favourite  summer  resort.  A  number  of 
villas,  some  of  which  are  let  to  visitors,  have  lately  sprung  up  here 
and  at  the  neighbouring  villages  of  Sdlhof,  Beuel,  Bondorf,  and 
Rommersdorf. 

Environs.  Beautiful  walk  of  2  hrs. :  by  the  farm  of  Zicklenbvrg  to 
Menzenberg  (on  the  slope  of  the  hill  is  grown  the  best  red  wine  of  the 
district),  past  the  large  Hager-Hof,  by  a  footpath  to  Rheinbreitbach  (p.  57), 
and  back  by  the  road  to  Honnef.  Other  excursions:  by  Menzenberg  to 
the  Eager  Kbppelehen  0/a  hr. \  fine  view) \  over  the  Heidenkamm  to  the 
"Baanenburg  \*/a  hr.),  the  tower  of  which  commands  a  fine  view ;  to  the 
(1  hr.)  Ltiberg  (1142.ft.),  a  basaltic  hill  commanding  a  beautiful  view,  the 
way  to  which  is  indicated  by  a  guide-post  at  the  S.  end  of  Honnef.  — 
Near  Rheinbreitbach  (p.  57)  are  the  old  copper  and  lead-mines  of  the 
Vimeberg,  which  were  known  to  the  Romans. 

From  Honnef  to  the  Lowenburg,  Ufa  hr.,  see  p.  80. 

In  the  Rhine,  to  the  right,  lie  the  islands  of  Nonnenwerth  and 
Orafenwerth;  on  the  opposite  bank  are  the  picturesque  arched  ruin 
of  Rolandseck  and  the  village  of  that  name.  The  village  of  Rhein- 
breitbach (p.  57)  is  next  passed,  opposite  which  lies  Oberwinter.  At 
(24  M.)  TJnkel  (p.  57)  the  train  quits  the  fertile  plain  which  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  and  passes  Erpel,  opposite  to  which  lies 
Remagen  with  the  elegant  ApoUinariskircke  (pp.  57,  58). 

34  M.  Line  (p.  59)  lies  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Ahr,  above 
which,  a  little  inland,  rises  the  handsome  church  of  Sinzig.  The 
train  next  passes  Leubsdorf,  Schloss  ArenftU,  and  Ariendorf.  Oppo- 
site (38  M.)  Honningen  (p.  60)  lies  Nitder-Brettig,  a  little  above 
which  rises  Schlou  Rheineek.  The  train  passes  Rheinbrohl,  with  its 
Gothic  church  (opposite  the  Brohl  Valley,  p.  87),  and  Nieder-  and 
Ober-Jiammerstein,  at  the  base  of  the  Hammerttein.  On  the  opposite 
bank,  a  little  above  (43i/2  M.)  Leutesdorf  (p.  61),  the  picturesque 


70     Route  11.  BENDORF. 

and  ancient  town  of  Andernach  (p.  61),  with  its  round  tower  and 
handsome  church  in  the  background ,  comes  in  sight.  The  valley 
of  the  Rhine  expands ,  and  we,  obtain  a  pleasant  view  of  Neuwied 
on  the  right ,  and  Netterhof  on  the  left  bank.  The  train  crosses 
the  Wied,  skirts  the  park  of  the  Prince  of  Wied,  and  stops  at  — 

47  M.  Heuwied  (p.  62).  The  station  is  a  little  to  the  E.  of  the 
town.  The  train  now  runs  inland  and  traverses  an  extensive  plain, 
but  returns  to  the  river  at  (4972  M.)  Engers  (p.  64),  beyond  which 
are  several  iron-works. 

5072  M.  Bendorf  (Nassauischer  Hof),  a  small  town  with  3500 
inhab.,  situated  amidst  orchards  3/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  line,  with 
an  interesting  Romanesque  church. 

Excuhsion  to  Sath.  The  village  of  Sayn  (Burg  Sayn  or  Pott,  with 
garden;  Friedrichsberg) ,  with  extensive  iron -works  belonging  to  Herr 
Krupp  of  Essen,  and  a  chateau  and  park  of  Prince  Sayn-Wittgenstein- 
Sayn,  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  Sayn,  is  situated  in  the  8ayn- 
fhal,  I1/2  M.  from  Bendorf  and  the  same  distance  from  Engers. 

"Sehloss  Bays  (generally  shown  on  Sundays  and  Thursdays,  1-5  o'clock ; 
proceeds  of  admission-fee  devoted  to  charity ;  the  attendant  also  expects  a 
trifling  fee)  is  handsomely  fitted  up  and  contains  a  choice  "Collection  of  Mo- 
dern Pictures.  Among  them,  Krilger,  Portrait  of  the  Russian  field-marshal 
Wittgenstein,  grandfather  of  the  present  proprietor  \  Hor.  Vernet,  Return 
from  hawking  (portraits  of  the  princess  and  her  family)*,  other  works  by 
Oudin  (d.  188U),  Isabey,  Wappers,  Verboeckhoven,  Oranet,  Winterhalter,  De- 
camps, &c.-y  smaller  works  by  Woutcerman,  F.  Bol,  and  others.  Also  sculp- 
tures by  Bartolini  and  L.  Bienaimi,  and  several  busts  by  Ranch.  The  Cha- 
pel, a  tasteful  modern  Gothic  structure,  with  a  crypt,  contains  a  figure  of 
Christ  in  ivory,  said  to  be  by  Giovanni  da  Bologna,  and  stained  glass 
from  Munich. 

The  *Park  lies  on  the  slope  of  the  hill ,  on  which  are  situated  the 
extensive  ruins  of  the  old  Castle  erected  in  the  10th  cent,  and  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  once 
powerful  counts  of  Sayn.  One  of  the  vaults  of  the  castle  contains  a  sarco- 
phagus with  an  oaken  statue  (13th  cent.)  of  Count  Heinrich  of  Sayn,  the 
founder  of  the  neighbouring  abbey  of  Sayn.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  are 
the  ruined  castles  of  Stein  and  Reifenberg. 

We  may  now  return  to  the  Rhine  by  the  Friedriehsberg,  or  Renne- 
berg,  a  park  whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained.    Thence  to  Engers  ll/t  M. 

Farther  up  the  Saynthal,  through  which  ascends  the  road  to  Alten- 
kirchen,  are  the  (3l/2  M.)  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Isenburg,  the  ancient  seat 
of  a  still  existing  family. 

About  2  M.  to  the  A .  of  Sayn  rises  the  spire  of  Heitribach,  near  which 
are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  abbey  of  Kommersdorf ,  with  fine  cloisters 
and  chapter-house,  erected  about  1200,  now  the  property  of  the  Duke 
of  Aremberg,  and  used  as  farm-buildings. 

5372M.  Vallendar  [Capitain,  with  garden;  Anker;  Albert;  local 
steamer  to  Coblenz),  a  busy  little  town  with  3500  inhab.  who 
carry  on  a  brisk  river-traffic,  lies  on  an  arm  of  the  Rhine  opposite 
the  island  of  Niederwerth  (p.  64).  On  the  banks  of  the  river 
are  large  dep6ts  of  the  Hohx  pottery  (p.  71).  On  a  height 
above  the  town  stands  the  handsome  Church,  built  by  L&ssaulx 
in  the  round-arch  style  in  1839,  with  a  tower  of  the  15th  cent. ; 
it  contains  some  stained  glass,  representing  the  Madonna  enthroned, 
designed  by  Hess.  Weitenburg,  on  the  hill  V2  M-  to  *be  N.  of 
Vallendar,  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  with  ita  is- 


BONN.  12.  Route.     71 

lands  and  its  banks  from  Andernach  to  Coblenr.  About  halfway 
up  the  bill  is  a  summer-house  of  tbe  Vallendar  Casino,  to  which 
visitors  are  admitted  on  introduction  by  a  member. 

In  tbe  valley  at  the  back  of  Vallendar  rue  (V*  X.)  tbe  Romanesque 
towers  of  tbe  nunnery  of  SchSnetatt,  which  was  abandoned  in  1567,  and 
afterwards  destroyed  by  the  Swedes.  The  nave  of  the  church  has  en- 
tirely disappeared.  Adjoining  it  is  a  cloth-factory.  A  good  road  ascends 
hence  through  a  picturesque  grassy  valley,  flanked  by  wooded  hills,  to 
(3  M.)  Hfthr  (MWenbaeh),  a  thriving  village  on  the  hill,  at  which,  to- 
gether with  the  neighbouring  villages  of  Orenthausen  and  Arzbach,  earthen- 
ware, useful  and  ornamental,  is  largely  manufactured. 

A  little  farther  on,  a  picturesque  view  is  obtained  of  Goblenz 
and  tbe  moutb  of  tbe  Moselle.  Tbe  station  at  EhrenbrcUsUin 
(p.  96)  lies  at  tbe  foot  of  the  precipitous  rock  on  which  tbe  fortress 
is  situated. 

12.  Bonn. 

Hotels  (Plan,  p.  76).  Stbbn  (PI.  a ;  B,  C,4),  in  the  market-place;  *Boyal 
Hotel  (PI.  b;  A,  4),  Coblenzer-Str.  11,  with  a  garden  on  the  Rhine  \  these 
two  of  the  first  class,  with  corresponding  charges ;  Bellevue  (PL  e ;  A,  4), 
Coblenzer-Str.  35,  B.  2-3  m.,  B.  im.;  *HotblKlit  (PI.  d;  B,  5),  Goblen- 
xer-Str.  1,  B.  2  m.,  L.  40,  D.  2  m.  60,  A.  60,  B.  80  pf.,  also  a  restaurant  and 
hotel  garni ;  these  last  two  also  have  gardens  on  the  Rhine.  Bhxixxok 
(PI.  e ;  B,  5),  opposite  the  steamboat-pier,  B.  1 1/2-272  m.,  A.  60,  B.  1  m.,  D. 
2  m.  50  pf. ;  *  Bhkixischxb  Hor  (PI.  f;  C,  4),  *Schwax  (PI.  g),  both  in  the 
Stern-Strasse,  near  the  market,  and  Bbaun's  Hotel  (PL  h  •,  B,  4),  Miinster- 
Platz  2,  are  good  second-class  inns ;  Hotel  Eixtracht,  Sandkaule  15,  also 
a  'pension1.  —  Hotels  Oarnis.  Hotel  it  Pension  du  Nokd,  Quantius-Str.  1, 
at  the  corner  of  the  Poppelsdorfer  Allee,  near  the  station ;  Pension  LChb- 
mann,  Evangelische-Kirch-8tr.  3  ;  Pension  Anolaise,  Endenicher  Allee  2. 

Restaurants.  */VrWn,  Wenzelgasse  50-,  Clouth,  Sandkaul  13-,  Breuer, 
Markt  13.  —  Oafe.  H6UI  Kley,  see  above.  —  Beer:  Vo$sy  Wenselgasse  54, 
also  oyster-rooms-,  Kaiserhalle,  near  the  station;  Nettekoven,  Keugasse  2) 
Beethovenhalle ,  Vierecks  -  Platz ;  Adtorf,  Miinster-Platz.  —  Oonfeotioner. 
*La%ibingtr,  Markt  5. 

Newspapers  and  restaurant  in  the  Lete-  und  Erholungt  -  Getelltchaft, 
opposite  the  University;  the  Academic  Reading-room  contains  upwards  of 
900  newspapers  and  periodicals;  visitors  are  introduced  to  either  of  these 
by  a  member. 

Bathing  Establishments  on  the  Rhine,  above  the  town,  with  swim- 
ming and  warm  baths.  There  are  also  warm-baths  at  the  Bonner  Bade- 
anstaH,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Baumschuler  Allee. 

Oabs.  Per  drive  in  the  town,  1-2  pers..  60  pf.,  each  additional  pers. 
25  pf.,  box  10  pf. ;  per  hour  2  m.,  with  two  horses  2  m.  50  pf. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PL  21),  Miinster-Platz. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  University  Church  at  11  a. m.  and  6.30 
p.m.  (4  p.m.  in  winter).  —  Scotch  Presbyterian  Church,  Lenne-Str. ;  services 
at  11  a.m.  and  5  p.m. 

Chief  Attractions.  Exterior  of  the  Munster  (p.  74),  Monument  of 
Beethoven  (p.  74);  view  from  the  Alte  Zoll  (p.  73);  walk  to  Poppelsdorf 
(p.  74). 

Bonn,  a  town  with  31,500  inbab. ,  tbe  seat  of  a  University 
founded  in  1818,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  tbe  W.  bank  of  the 
Rhine ,  at  the  N.  entrance  to  tbe  narrower  and  more  pioturesque 
part  of  the  valley  of  tbe  river.  It  has  recently  become  a  very  pros- 
perous place ,  and  a  favourite  residence  of  English  and  other  vis- 
itors. The  pleasant  villas  with  their  gardens  on  the  Rhine,  situated 


72     Route  12.  BONN.  University. 

on  the  Coblenzer  Strasse  above  the  to*n,  the  shady  promenades  of 
the  Hofgarten,  the  Poppelsdorfer  Allee,  and  the  view  from  the  Alte 
Zoll,  all  contribute  to  render  the  town  very  attractive,  while  the 
fine  towers  of  the  Minister  and  the  new  Protestant  church  also  en- 
hance the  general  effect. 

Bonn,  the  Bonna,  or  Castra  Bonnentia  of  the  Romans,  frequently 
mentioned  by  Tacitus,  and  probably  founded  by  Drusus,  was  one  of  the  first 
Roman  fortresses  on  the  Rhine,  and  the  head  -  quarters  of  several  legions. 
The  Roman  Cattrwn,  which  was  very  extensive,  stood  near  the  end  of  the 
modern  Steinweg  or  Hetrweg,  at  the  WicheUhof^  to  the  K.  of  the  town ,  as 
is  proved  by  excavations  made  in  1818  and  by  recent  investigations.  In 
the  middle  ages  Bonn  was  a  place  of  little  importance  until  1267,  when 
the  Archbishop  of  Cologne  transferred  his  residence  and  stiat  of  govern- 
ment hither  (comp.  p.  25).  The  German  kings,  Frederick  of  Austria 
(1314)  and  Charles  IV.  (1346),  were  crowned  in  the  Miinster. 

The  Protestant  tendencies  of  Hermann  of  Wied  and  Gebhard  of 
Waldburg ,  Archbishops  of  Cologne  in  the  16th  cent. ,  principally  mani- 
fested by  the  latter  in  his  marriage  with  the  nun  Agnes  of  Mansfeld,  for 
which  he  was  declared  an  apostate  and  banished  from  his  Electorate,  brought 
Bonn  into  great  trouble.  In  the  Dutch  War  of  Independence,  in  the 
Thirty  Years'  War,  and  especially  in  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession.  Bonn 
suffered  repeatedly  from  sieges.  That  of  1689  was  conducted  by  Elector 
Frederick  III.  of  Brandenburg  (King  Frederick  I.)  at  the  head  of  the  Impe- 
rial and  allied  troops.  Marlborough  and  other  celebrated  generals  took 
part  about  the  same  time  in  the  operations  against  the  town.  The  walls 
were  levelled  in  1717,  in  accordance  with  the  Peace  Of  Rastatt.  —  Under 
the  Electors  of  the  18th  cent.  Bonn  was  very  prosperous,  and  one  of 
them  in  1777  founded  an  Academy,  elevated  to  a  University  seven  years 
later  by  Emperor  Joseph  II.  On  7th  Oct.,  1794,  the  French  marched  into 
the  town,  and  in  1797  the  university  was  closed. 

Under  the  French  Bonn  suffered  much,  and  its  population  decreased 
from  9500  to  7500,  but  since  its  recovery  by  the  Prussians  in  1815  and  the 
foundation  of  the  Friedrich-Wilhelm  University,  it  has  gradually  revived. 

The  University  Buildings  (PI.  B,  4,  5),  originally  the  electoral 
Palace,  erected  in  1717-1730,  and  partially  rebuilt  after  a  fire  in 
1777,  occupy  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  and  are  the  most  exten- 
sive in  Germany  (600  yds.  in  length).  They  are  well  fitted  up  and 
contain  the  Lecture  Booms  (with  the  exception  of  the  agricul- 
tural and  most  of  the  medical),  the  Library  (PI.  6)  of  250,000  vols., 
adorned  with  busts  of  Niebuhr,  Schlegel,  Arndt,  etc.,  a  valuable 
Collection  of  Coins  (4000  Greek  and  Roman  and  400  mediaeval), 
&  Museum  of  Antiquities  (see  below) ,  and  a  Physical  Cabinet.  The 
Aula  or  hall  (keys  kept  by  the  head-porter,  under  the  arcades 
to  the  left;  75 pf.)  is  adorned  with  frescoes  emblematical  of  the 
four  faculties,  executed  by  Cornelius's  pupils,,  Forster,  Gotzenber- 
ger,  and  Hermann.  The  'theology'  was  begun  by  Cornelius  himself 
in  1824.  The  old  chapel  of  the  Electoral  palace  is  now  a  Protestant 
place  of  worship.  Church  of  England  service  is  performed  here  on 
Sundays.     . 

The  ""Academical  Museum  of  Art  (entrance  near  PI.  6,  in  the  Fran- 
ziskaner-Strasse ;  attendant  75  pf. ;  catalogue  by  Prof.  B.  Kekul^  3  m.),  a 
very  meritorious  collection  of  Its  kind,  is  constantly  receiving  additions. 
It  contains  upwards  of  700  casts,  statues,  reliefs,  etc.,  some  of  them  ori- 
ginals, arranged  chronologically. 

The  *  Museum  of  Antiquities  (custodian  in  the  Franziskaner-Str. ,  see 
above  j  catalogue  2  m.)  Is  an  interesting  collection  of  monuments  and  other 


ALU  Zoll.  BONN.  19.  Route.     73 

objects,  mainly  of  the  Roman  period,  found  in  the  Rhenish  province  and 
Westphalia,  some  of  them  being  from  the  excavations  at  the  Wichelshof 
(p.  <2).  The  most  interesting  are  the  votive  tablets  to  Mercurius  Arvernus 
(Nos.  19,  20),  to  Sereulet  Saxannt  (21-24),  to  the  Germano-Celtic  maternal 
deities  (28-62),  and  to  the  Teutonic  goddesses  Alaidmia  (63)  and  Hludana 
(64,  67)  ;  Votive  stone  of  a  legate ,  with  a  metrical  account  of  his  official 
career;  60-70.  Mithras  Beliefs ;  *82.  Tomb-relief  of  a  centurion  and  his  two 
freedmen,  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  the  Teutoburgian  Forest  Cbellum  Va- 
rianuin);  98.  Relief  of  a  Roman  standard-bearer;  225.  Relief  of  the  flight 
of  Iphigeneia;  Fragments  of  a  Roman  wall  with  frescoes  of  the  battles  of 
the  Amazons ;  204.  Mosaic  portrait  of  an  Abbot  of  Laach  \  smaller  Roman 
and  Franconian  antiquities. 

Passing  through  the  Coblenzer  Thor,  which  intersects  the  £. 
wing  of  the  university  (PI.  B,  4),  and  has  its  facade  adorned  ex- 
ternally with  a  figure  of  the  Archangel  Michael,  we  reach  the  newest 
quarter  of  the  town,  called  the  Coblenaer  StratM,  which  skirts  the 
E.  side  of  the  Hofgarten,  and  consists  of  hotels,  villas  surrounded 
by  gardens,  and  other  handsome  buildings.  —  No.  75  Fahrgasse,  the 
second  cross-street  to  the  left,  was  the  residence  of  the  poet  Arndt, 
and  now  contains  a  small  Collection  of  Antiquities. 

Vestibule.  Roman  stone  monuments.  —  Ground-Floor.  Large  col- 
lection of  black  Franconian  goblets,  with  inscriptions,  found  in  a  grave 
at  Meckenheim;  gold  ornaments  from  Waldalgesheim ;  fine  enamels  and 
engraved  glass.  —  TJppxx  Floor.  Valuable  collection  of  Roman  glass;  a 
Vat  diatretum;  Etruscan  bronze  vessels,  clasps,  keys,  etc. 

The  extensive  Hofgarten  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  with  its  fine  old  avenues, 
is  a  favourite  promenade.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  garden  rises  the 
^Protestant  Church  f  PL  18),  a  Gothic  edifice  of  brick,  erected  by 
Dieckhof  in  1866-71,  with  a  lofty  tower.  —  Opposite,  in  the  Kaiser- 
Platz,  is  an  Exhibition  of  Pictures. 

CIobo  to  the  Coblenz  Gate  is  the  entrance  to  the  Alte  Zoll 
(PI.  1),  an  old  bastion  on  the  bank  of  the  Rhine ,  commanding  a 
fine  *View  of  the  river  and  its  opposite  bank,  including  Beuel, 
Bensberg,  Siegburg,  and  the  Seven  Mts.  In  the  centre  is  a  Mon- 
ument (PI.  3  j  B,  5)  to  the  poet  Ernst  Moritz  Arndt  (b.  1769,  d. 
1860),  in  bronze.  The  figure  leans  with  the  left  hand  on  a  trunk 
of  oak ,  whilst  the  right  is  pointing  towards  the  Rhine.  The  two 
French  guns  here,  captured  in  the  late  war,  were  presented  by- 
Emperor  William.  An  inclined  plane  descends  from  the  Alte  Zoll 
to  the  Rhine. 

The  side  of  the  old  town  next  the  Rhine  is  unattractive.  At  the 
low^r  end  are  several  Clinical  Establishments  (PL  D,  6,  5)  belonging 
to  the  university.  A  steam  and.  other  ferry-boats  cross  hence  to 
the  village  of  Beuel  (railway -station,  see  p.  68),  situated  on  the 
opposite  bank. 

The  central  point  of  the  business  of  the  town  is  the  triangular 
JCarket  Pl*oe  (PL  B,  0,  4),  to  which  the  principal  streets  of  the 
old  town  converge.  In  the  centre  of  it  rises  a  Fountain  Column, 
erected  by  the  citizens  in  1777  in  honour  of  the  last  but  one 
of  the  Electors  of  Cologne.  The  Rathhaus,  with  its  lofty  flight  of 
steps,  was  completed  in  1782. 


74     Route  22.  BONN.  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss. 

The*Xftn8ter  (PI.  12 ;  B,  3),  a  cruciform  church  with  two  choirs, 
four  small  towers,  and  a  lofty  octagonal  principal  tower  over  the  cross, 
is  an  imposing  and  picturesque  example  of  the  late-Romanesque 
style.  It  was  formerly  an  archdeanery  of  St.  Oassius  and  St.  Flor- 
entius ,  and ,  like  many  Rhenish  churches ,  traces  its  foundation 
to  Constantino.  The  W.  part  of  the  crypt  and  the  part  of  the 
church  above  it  date,  however,  from  the  11th,  the  end  of  the  choir 
from  the  middle  of  the  12th,  and  the  nave,  transept,  and  chief 
tower  from  the  13th  century.  The  building  is  at  present  undergoing 
restoration. 

The  Intkeiob  is  remarkable  for  its  handsome  proportions.  It  contains 
a  bronze  statue  of  St.  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constantino,  in  the  manner- 
ist style ,  cast  at  Rome  in  1756 }  two  bas-reliefs  representing  the  Nativity 
and  Baptism  of  Christ  over  the  altars  in  the  nave  and  transept  to  the 
right,  well- executed  Italian  works  of  the  17th  or  18th  century.  Near 
the  chief  portal  is  the  Sarcophagus  of  Archbishop  Engelbert  von  Falken- 
burg  (d.  1274).    The  interesting  old  Crypt  was  recently  restored. 

The  ancient  Chapter  House  adjoining  the  church  is  now  the  par- 
sonage. Cloisters,  with  pillars  possessing  beautiful  capitals,  of  the 
12th  century. 

The  other  churches,  the  Gothic  Minoritenkirche  (PI.  14 ;  C,  4), 
with  cloisters  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  cent.,  the  J«- 
suitehkirche  (PI.  13;  C,  4;  Old  Catholic),  and  the  Stiflskirche  fPl. 
16;  D,  4)  are  unattractive.    The  Gothic  Herz-Jesu-Kirche  (PI.  17; 

A,  4),  erected  in  1862,  contains  good  stained  glass,  designed  by 
Steinle. 

The  bronze  *8tatue  of  Beethoven  (PI.  4),  in  the  MUnstbrplatz 
(PI.  B,  C,  3),  executed  by  Hahnel  of  Dresden ,  was  inaugurated  in 
presence  of  Queen  Victoria  in  1845.  The  celebrated  composer 
(1770-1827)  was  born  in  the  Bonngasse,  No.  20  (PI.  5 ;  C,  4).  His 
father  was  a  tenor-singer,  and  his  grandfather  (a  native  of  Ant- 
werp) band-master  to  the  Elector.  No.  7  Rheingasse,  to  which  Beet- 
hoven's parents  removed  after  his  birth,  also  bears  an  inscription. 

The  *PoppelBdorfer  Allee  (PI.  A,  2),  the  principal  promenade  of 
the  town,  a  quadruple  avenue  of  beautiful  horse-chestnuts,  */2  M. 
long,  and  flanked  with  handsome  villas  and  gardens,  leads  from  the 
Kaiser-Platz,  adjoining  the  Hofgarten  and  the  University,  towards 
the  W.  to  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss.  At  the  end  next  the  town  it 
is  crossed  by  the  railway.   To  the  right  is  the  Railway  Station  (PI. 

B,  3).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  a  little  back  from  the  avenue,  is  the 
handsome  Observatory  (PI.  23;  A,  2)  with  its  seven  turrets,  erected 
in  1839-46  under  the  superintendence  of  Prof.  Argelander  (d .  1875). 

The  Poppelsdorfer  SchlosB  (PI.  A,  1),  formerly  a  residence  of 
the  Electors,  erected  in  1715-46,  but  presented  to  the  university 
by  Frederick  William  III.,  now  contains  the  ^Natural  History  Col* 
lections. 

The  collection  of  minerals  and  fossils,  originated  by  the  indefatigable 
Prof.  Noggerath  and  arranged  by  Prof.  G.  vom  Bath,  is  particularly  worthy 
of  inspection,  as  the  specimens  illustrate  the  geology  of  the  Seven  M ts. 
(R.  13)  and  Eifel  (R.  26).    It  was  enriched  in  1875  by  the  purchase  (for 


Kreuzberg.  BONN.  72.  Route.     75 

144,000  m.)  of  the  collection  of  Dr.  KranU.  The  ^OrotUnsaaV,  fitted  up 
in  the  time  of  the  Electors,  contains  mining-models  and  also  reliefs  of  the 
Rhine.  Seven  Hts.,  dc,  which  may  be  purchased.  Custodian's  lodge  to 
the  left  of  the  entrance  (fee  75  pf.,  for  a  party  H/2-2  m.). 

The  Botanical  Garden  adjoining  the  palace  (open  Tues.  and 
Frid.  3-7;  at  other  times  fee  as  above)  is  well  kept  and  contains  a 
palm-house  and  extensive  hot-houses. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Poppelsdorfer  Schloss  rises  the  Chemical 
Laboratory  (PI.  A,  1),  a  palatial  building,  designed  by  the  architect 
Dieckhoff  and  the  Berlin  chemist  Hofmann,  one  of  the  most  exten- 
sive and  best  organised  in  the  world,  completed  in  1868.  The  en- 
trance-ball contains  medallion -reliefs  of  celebrated  chemists.  — 
Behind  the  laboratory  is  the  handsome  Anatomy  Building  (PI.  2 ; 
A,  B,  1),  designed  by  Neumann,  and  completed  in  1872.  Opposite, 
on  the  W.,  is  the  new  Physiological  Institute.  —  In  the  vicinity  are 
the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Agricultural  Academy,  fitted  up  in 
1847,  comprising  lecture-rooms,  collections,  a  laboratory,  and  the 
residence  of  the  director. 

Above  Poppelsdorf,  V*  M«  from  the  Schloss,  rises  the  *Kreuiberg 
(400  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  crowned  with  a  conspicuous'  white  church. 
It  originally  belonged  to  a  monastery  erected  by  Elector  Ferdinand  of 
Bavaria  in  1627,  and  contains  the  "Holy  Steps'  of  Italian  marble  (in  the 
chapel  behind  the  altar),  constructed  under  Elector  Clement  Augustus 
(d.  1761).  These  steps,  28  in  number,  must  be  ascended  only  on  the 
knees,  and  are  an  imitation  of  the  Scala  Santa  at  the  Lateran.  Beautiful 
view  from  the  tower. 

Keasenich,  a  village  with  pleasant  country-houses,  about  lyjM.  from 
Bonn,  is  reached  by  a  road  diverging  from  the  middle  of  the  Poppelsdorf 
Avenue  to  the  left.  On  the  slope  of  the  Vorgebirge  (p.  67),  immediately 
above  it,  rises  the  Rosenburg,  a  small  chateau  with  pretty  grounds.  The 
margin  of  the  Kessenicher  Schlucht  (Casselsruhe),  a  gorge  higher  up,  com- 
mands a  charming  *  View  of  Godesberg ,  the  Seven  Mts. ,  etc.  Another 
favourite  point  of  view  is  the  Dottendor/er  HVhe,  a  few  minutes  walk 
farther  in  the  direction  of  Godesberg,  and  about  IV2  M.  from  Bonn.  Foot- 
paths lead  along  the  lower  hills  to  Godesberg  (p.  66).  Another  pleasant 
walk  may  be  taken  to  Endenich,  where  there  is  an  asylum  for  the  insane, 
situated  »/»  M.  to  the  W.  of  Poppelsdorf. 

The  *Cemetery  (PL  D,  2,  3),  l/<  M.  from  the  Sternthor,  is  the  resting- 
place  of  many  eminent  men,  chiefly  professors  at  the  university,  and  is 
also  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account  of  its  handsome  monuments,  including 
one  in  memory  of  the  campaign  of  1870-71  (in  bronze). 

By  the  wall  on  the  right,  Monument  of  Niebuhr  (d.  1831),  erected  by 
Fred.  William  IV.  to  his  'teacher  and  friend'  •,  in  front  a  relief  in  marble 
by  Ranch,  representing  Niebuhr  and  his  wife,  being  a  copy  of  an  ancient 
Roman  tomb-relief  preserved  in  the  hall  of  the  busts  at  the  Vatican.  Farther 
along  the  same  walk,  on  the  right,  the  monuments  of  Ernst  von  Schiller 
(d.  1841),  the  second  son,  and  Charlotte  von  Lengefeld  (d.  1826),  widow  of 
the  poet.  Near  the  circular  space  is  the  monument  of  the  brothers  Bois- 
serte ,  the  famous  connoisseurs  of  art  (Melchior  d.  1861,  Sulpice  d.  1854), 
a  relief  in  marble  with  a  head  of  Christ,  by  Rauch.  The  *Chapel  in  the 
middle  of  the  cemetery,  a  beautiful  Romanesque  structure,  built  at  Ra- 
mersdorf  (p.  55)  about  the  year  1200,  was  transferred  thence  to  its  present 
site  in  1847.  It  contains  stained  glass  presented  by  the  Boisserees.  Near 
the  chapel  are  the  graves  of  Schumann  (d.  1856),  the  composer,  with  a 
'Monument  by  Donndorf,  erected  in  1880,  of  Argelander  (d.  1875),  the  astro- 
nomer, and  Karl  Simrock  (d.  1876),  the  poet.  The  monument  of  the  poet 
Arndt  (d.  1860),  is  close  to  the  E.  wall  of  the  cemetery.  Beside  it  is  that 
of  Baron  Bunsen  (d.  1860),  with  a  marble  medallion. 


76 


13.  The  Seven  Mountains  (SUbengebirge). 


One  day  suffices  to  explore  the  most  interesting  points  in  this  district, 
unless  the  visit  be  for  geological  purposes.  Konigswinter  (a  station  on  the 
Right  Rhenish  railway,  and  connected  through  Mehlem,  on  the  opposite 
bank,  with  the  Left  Renish  Railway ;  also  a  steamboat-station)  is  the  usual 
starting-point ,  but  Bonne/  or  Dollendorf,  stations  on  the  Right  Rhenish 
line,  may  in  some  cases  be  more  convenient.  From  Konigswinter  to  the 
Drachen/els  */*  hr.  \  thence  to  the  Great  Oelberg  l3/*  hr.  \  and  to  Heisier- 
bach  I1/4  hr.  more*,  back  to  Konigswinter  in  «/«  hr.,  or  to  Meder-Dotten- 
dor/  in  7*  nr-  —  From  Bonne/  to  the  Lbwenburg  lJ/4  hr. -,  thence  to 
the  Great  Oelberg  l1/*  hr.,  and  via  Heisterbach  to  Konigswinter  as  above. 
In  this  case  the  Drachenfels  is  ascended  last,  from  Konigswinter.  —  From 
Nieder-DolUndor/  the  excursion  is  the  same  as  the  first  mentioned,  but 
in  the  reverse  direction. 

The  most  satisfactory  way  of  visiting  the  Seven  Mountains  is,  of  course, 
on  foot,  but  the  whole  tour  from  Konigswinter  to  Heisterbach  and  the  Mar- 
garethenho/,  and  thence  either  to  the  Draehen/el*  or  by  the  Lowenburger 
Ho/  to  Bonne/  may  now  be  accomplished  by  carriage,  thanks  to  the  ex- 
cellent roads  constructed  by  a  praise-worthy  society  founded  in  1873  for 
the  purpose  of  facilitating  access  to  the  fine  scenery  of  this  district.  Num- 
erous finger-posts  have  also  been  erected,  and  the  services  of  a  guide  may 
be  dispensed  with.  —  The  heights  given  in  the  following  description  are 
calculated  from  the  level  of  the  sea;  the  approximate  height  above  the 
Rhine  is  obtained  by  subtracting  160  ft.  Geologists  who  understand  Ger- 
man should  purchase  Dr.  v.  Dechen's  'Geognostischer  Fiihrer  in  das  Sie- 
bengebirge',  with  map,  7  m.,  sold  by  Cohen  at  Bonn. 

Carnages,  Horses,  and  Donkeys  at  Konigswinter,  see  below. 

The '"Seven  Mountains,  which  form  theN.W.  termination  of  the 
Westerwald  district,  extend  3  M.  inland  from  the  Rhine,  and  from 
N.  to  S.  about  9  M.,  Konigswinter  being  the  central  point  on  the  W. 
They  consist  of  a  group  of  peaks,  cones,  and  long,  rounded  ridges, 
some  of  which  are  covered  with  forest  and  luxuriant  herbage.  They  are 
all  of  volcanic  character  and  consist  partly  of  trachyte  (DrachenfeU, 
Wolkenburg,  Lohrberg),  and  partly  of  basalt ,  a  more  recent  forma- 
tion (Oelberg,  Nonnenstromberg,  Petersberg*),  while  the  Lowenburg 
alone  is  of  dolerite.  These  seven  peaks,  from  which  the  mountains 
derive  their  name ,  are  seen  simultaneously  only  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Cologne ;  as  Bonn  is  approached,  the  Lowenburg  is  hidden 
by  the  Nonnenstromberg.  Besides  these  summits  there  are  many 
others,  such  as  the  conical  Hemmerich,  of  trachyte,  which  overtops 
the  lower  mountains  of  the  S.  side,  the  Rosenau,  and  the  8ten%el- 
berg,  which  adjoins  the  Nonnenstromberg  on  the  S.  The  view  from 
the  DrachenfeU  is  the  most  picturesque,  that  from  the  Oelberg  the 
most  extensive. 

Konigswinter.  —  Hotels.  Berlin  Hotel,  well  spoken  of;  European 
Hotel  \  both  opposite  the  pier,  of  the  first  class,  R.  from  2y»-8  m. ;  °H6tkl 
kiKPFEL,  in  the  principal  street,  R.  and  B.  2  m.  50  pf. ;  Dusseldorfbe  Hop, 
a  small  house  on  the  Rhine,  lower  down  than  the  large  hotels.  —  Kolnks 
Hpp_.  with  terrace  facing  the  river,  above  the  steamboat-pier,  <peM°n 
Dm.,  well  spoken  of;  Bockhalle,  in  the  main  street,  near  the  station,  with 
restaurant*,  Restaurant  Klein  (also  a  hotel).  —  Several  Pensions. 

Cafe  and  Confectioner :  Mertens,  in  the  main  street,  below  the  Roman 
Catholic  church. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  for  1  pers.,  one-horse  60, 
two-horse  70 pf.,  each  pers.  additional  20  or  26  pf.,  luggage  25  pf.-,  to  the 


77 


•  onn. 


rLNJP^"         *l"  nuwjLt  i'v 


*b»m; 


>■  J£w  ■fii^Ju  nfct 


K6NIGSWINTER.  13.  BouU.     77 

Drachenfels  4  or  5*/s  m.,  there  and  back  within  3  hrs.,  5>/t  or  71/*  m.  %  Jfor- 
garethenhof  51/*  or  7  m. ;  Beitterbach  31/*  or  0  m.,  there  and  back  ft  or 
TVs  m.  •,  Lfooenbvry  via  Heisterbach  6  or  8 ,  by  the  new  road  5  or  6'/t, 
there  and  baek  7y8,  10,  6»/»,  or  8  m.-,  Bonne/  l»/«  or  2»/t  m.,  there  and 
back  within  3  hrs.  3  or  4  m.*,  drive  through  the  Seven  Mts.  via  Heister- 
bach, Margarethenhof,  and  Honnef  (5  hrs.).  with  two  horses,  11  m. 

Donkeys  and  Horses.  To  the  Drachenfels  by  the  new  road,  donkey 
Wi,  horse  1SA  m.,  by  the  old  road  1V«  or  I1/*  m. ;  Wolkmburg  and  DracAen- 
feU  2  or  21/*  m.  •,  Drachen/eU,  Wolke*burg>  and  BirteJkberg  2»/j  or  3  m. ; 
Heisterbach  iy2  or  2  m.;  LOwenburg  2l/s  or  3  m.  •,  Oelberg  2»/a  or  3  m. ; 
whole  day  5  or  6  m.;  after  sunset  7*  or  1  m.  extra  in  all  eases. 

Guides  (including  porterage  of  light  articles).  To  the  Drnchen/el*  or 
Heisterbach  IV*  m. ;    Ldwenburg   or   Oelberg  2Vi  m. j  whole  day  8>/t  m. 

Small  Boats  to  Roland*eck  and  back,  with  1  hour's  stay,  V/t  m.  \  to 
Plittersdorf  2  m.  —  To  Hehlem  (a  station  on  the  Left  Rhenish  railway) 
by  small  boat,  20  pf. ;  also  a  ferry-boat. 

Kimigswinter  (165  ft.),  a  thriving  little  modern  town  with  2500 
inhab.,  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  Seven  Mountains, 
at  the  foot  of  which  it  lies.  It  is  consequently  much  thronged  by 
tourists  in  summer.  It  possesses  extensive  stone-cutting  yards,  which 
prepared  much  of  the  stone  used  in  building  Cologne  Cathedral. 
The  railway-station  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town ,  and  beyond 
its  precincts.  A  pleasant  walk  extendi  along  the  bank  nf  thn  Rhino 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  is  a  Monument  erected  in  commem- 
oration of  the  events  of  1870-71. 

Ascbnt  of  thb  Draohbnfels  (carriages  in  waiting  at  the  sta- 
tion). The  well-constructed  new  road  crosses  the  railway  and  coin- 
cides for  some  distance  with  that  to  the  Margarethenhof ;  it  then 
turns  to  the  right,  skirts  the  Hirschberg  (p.  81 ;  to  the  left  the  new 
road  to  the  Oelberg,  p.  79),  and  ascends  in  a  curve  to  the  terrace. 
Walkers  turn  to  the  left  on  the  platform  at  the  station  (finger-post), 
follow  the  direction  of  the  railway,  and  cross  the  road ;  after  5  min. 
the  path  joins  that  from  the  Rhine  (see  below).  Other  pleasant  paths 
ascend  by  the  Saurenberg  or  through  the  pretty  Nachtigallenthal, 
quitting  the  carriage-road  where  it  turns  to  the  left,  200  paces  be- 
yond the  railway.  The  way  through  the  Nachtigallenthal  is  that  to 
the  left;  after  5  min.  it  crosses  a  bridge  to  the  right.  At  the  Kuck- 
stein,  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  it  unites  with  the  Saurenberg  path. 

The  traveller  arriving  by  Steamboat  passes  between  the  two 
chief  hotels,  crosses  the  railway,  and  soon  reaches  the  donkey- 
station  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  The  ascent  thence  is  by  a  bridle- 
path on  the  side  of  the  rock  next  to  the  Rhine,  and  partly  through 
wood,  leading  in  %  hr.  to  the  terrace  near  the  top.  Several  cabarets 
by  the  wayside :  (10  min.)  Zur  sckonen  Ausricht,  and  a  little  beyond 
it  Zum  Kuckstein  (620  ft.),  a  little  below  which  our  path  is  joined 
by  that  over  the  Saurenberg,  and  a  little  above  by  that  through 
the  Nachtigallenthal  (recommended  to  those  returning  to  the 
railway-station).  —  A  fourth  route  for  walkers  passes  the  group  of 
rocks  called  the  Groasvater$tuhl,  and  ascends  the  'Winkelstrasse', 
450  paces  to  the  N.  of  the  church  of  Konigswinter,  joining  the  old 
bridle-path  near  the  Burghof  (662  ft.). 


1S     Route  13.  DRACHENFELS.  The  Seven 

The  Terrace  (968  ft.;  *Inn,  R.  from  2m.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  3-4m.,  also 
'pension'),  a  levelled  rocky  plateau  about  100  ft.  below  the  sum- 
mit, is  embellished  with  a  Gothic  Obelisk  commemorating  the  pa- 
triotic spirit  of  the  Rhinelanders  in  the  years  1813-15,  designed  by 
Zwirner  and  erected  in  1857.  The  carriage-road  reaches  the  terrace 
to  the  E.,  below  the  'Logirhaus'. 

The  castle  of  *DrachenfelB  (1066  ft.),  or  'dragon's  rock',  908  ft. 
above  the  Rhine,  which  is  reached  in  a  few  minutes  from  the  plateau 
just  mentioned,  was  erected  by  Arnold ,  Archbishop  of  Cologne ,  at 
the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent. ,  bestowed  by  him  on  the  Oassius 
Monastery  at  Bonn  in  1149,  and  held  as  a  fief  from  the  latter  by  the 
counts  of  the  castle.  Henry,  Count  of  Drachenfels  (d.  1348),  fur- 
nished the  chapter  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  with  the  stone  for  its 
construction  from  a  quarry  which  still  bears  the  name  of  Dombruch, 
or  cathedral  quarry.  The  wine  yielded  by  the  vineyards  on  its  slopes 
is  known  as  Drachehblut ,  or  dragon's  blood.  In  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  the  half-ruined  castle  was  occupied  by  the  Swedes ,  but  was 
besieged  and  taken  from  them  by  Duke  Ferdinand  of  Bavaria, 
Elector  of  Cologne,  who  completed  its  destruction. 

The  Cavern  among  the  vineyards ,  visible  from  the  Rhine  about 
half-way  up  the  hill ,  is  said  once  to  have  housed  the  dragon ,  slain 
by  Siegfried,  the  hero  from  the  Low  Countries,  who,  having  bathed 
himself  in  its  blood,  became  invulnerable. 

•Vibw^  The  summit  commands  one  of  the  noblest  prospects  on 
the  Rhine ;  to  the  E.  are  seen  several  of  the  seven  peaks ,  S.E.  the 
basaltic  heights  at  the  back  of  Honnef,  among  them  the  Minderberg 
(p.  59),  and  the  Hemmerich  (p.  76),  gradually  sloping  down  to  the 
Rhine.  Immediately  below  lie  Rhondorf ,  Honnef,  Rheinbreitbach, 
Unkel,  and  Erpel ;  on  the  left  bank  Remagen  and  the  Gothic  church 
on  the  Apollinarisberg ,  in  the  background  the  heights  of  the  Eifel 
with  the  ruin  of  Olbruck  (p.  88),  in  the  vicinity  Oberwinter,  the 
islands  of  Grafenwerth  and  Nonnenwerth,  and  the  arched  ruin  of 
Rolandseck.  Farther  to  the  right  the  Kreuzberg,  Bonn,  and  even 
Cologne  are  visible.  The  scene  forcibly  recalls  to  the  spectator  the 
beautiful  lines  of  Byron :  — 

'The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfels 
Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine, 
Whose  breast  of  waters  broadly  .swells 
Between  the  banks  which  bear  the  vine; 
And  hills  all  rich  with  blossom"' d  trees, 
And  fields  which  promise  corn  and  wine 
And  scattered  cities  crowning  these, 
Whose  far  white  walls  along  them  shine, 
Have  strew'd  a  scene  which  I  should  see 
With  double  joy  wert  thou  with  me/ 

From  thb  Drachenfbls  to  thb  Gbjbat  Oblbbrg  (1%  hr.).  The 
new  carriage-road,  which  affords  a  series  of  charming  viewg,  di- 
verges from  the  Drachenfels  road  in  the  saddle  between  the  Wolken- 
burg  and  the  Hirschberg  (594  ft. ;  see  p.  81),  about  1  M.  from  the 


Mountains.  OELBERG.  13.  Route.     79 

Drachenfels,  and  then  leads  in  windings  by  the  Schallerberg,  Gels* 
berg,  and  Lohrbeig  to  the  Margazethenhof  (see  below). 

The  road  just  described  will  also  repay  the  pedestrian.  Those, 
however,  who  prefer  footpaths  follow  the  road  from  the  terrace  to 
the  second  bend  only,  where  a  finger-post  on  the  right,  beside  two 
benches,  points  out  the  way  to  Rhondorf  and  Honnef ,  while  beyond 
it  another  indicates  that  to  the  Wolkenbnrg  and  the  Lowenburg. 
Here  they  take  the  latter  path,  and  in  10  minutes  reach  the  summit 
of  the  Wolkenbnrg  (1075  ft.)-  The  anoient  stronghold  of  that  name, 
which  was  assigned  by  the  Archbishop  Arnold  I.  as  a  place  of  refuge 
to  the  Jews  banished  from  Cologne  in  the  12th  cent.,  has  long  since 
been  demolished  to  make  way  for  the  extensive  quarries  of  trachyte 
which  have  been  worked  here  for  centuries.  Several  benches  on  the 
top,  especially  those  on  the  N.  side,  command  fine  views.  The  path 
now  descends  in  windings,  the  direction  being  indicated  by  way- 
posts.  The  traveller  cannot  lose  his  way  if  he  proceeds  towards  the 
£.  in  the  direction  of  a  conspicuous  little  cottage  at  the  foot  of  the 
Oeisberg  (V*  hr.),  where  the  above-mentioned  road  is  rejoined.  A 
few  bends  of  the  road  farther  on  may  also  be  cut  off,  but  with  no 
particular  advantage.  The  road  to  the  Lowenburg  (p.  81)  diverges 
to  the  right  near  the  Margarethenhof . 

The  Margarethenhof  (1096  ft.)  is  a  good  inn  on  the  highest  part 
of  the  road  from  Kdnigs winter  to  Ittenbaoh,  at  the  foot  of  the  cone 
of  the  Oelberg.  On  a  cross  near  the  inn  is  a  relief  of  St.  Margaretha 
and  the  dragon. 

The  Road  to  K&nigtwinter  (4»/a  M.)  just  mentioned  leads  through  the 
valley  of  the  Mittelbach.  About  half-way,  two  broad  paths  diverge  to 
the  left  to  the  quarries  of  the  Oferikaulen-Berg,  which  yield  a  trachyte 
conglomerate  known  as  oven-stone. 

Just  beyond  the  Margarethenhof  is  a  stone  guide-post,  indicat- 
ing the  footpath  to  the  top  of  the  Oelberg,  which  leads  between 
the  two  carriage-roads.  Farther  on  the  path  follows  the  road,  which 
leads  to  the  basalt  quarries  (see  below),  for  some  distance,  and  then 
diverges  again  to  the  left.  The  summit  of  the  Oelberg  is  reached 
in  i/j  hour. 

The  *Gre»t  Oelberg  (1522  ft. ;  Restaurant,  plain)  is  a  basaltic 
mountain  which  has  been  upheaved  through  the  trachyte.  The 
prospect  from  the  summit  is  the  most  extensive  on  the  lower  Rhine ; 
the  picturesque  foreground  differs  in  many  respects  from  that  seen 
from  the  Drachenfels.  The  whole  wooded  tract  of  the  Seven  Mts. 
lies  like  a  map  before  the  spectator;  the  Rhine  glitters  between  the 
valleys  which  intersect  its  banks,  and  its  course  may  be  traced  as  far 
as  Cologne;  in  the  distance  to  the  S.  the  Taunus,  and  N.E.  the 
heights  near  Dusseldorf.  The  basalt  quarries  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Oelberg  are  now  the  most  important  in  the  Seven  Mountains,  and 
are  interesting  for  the  curious  displacement  of  the  basaltic  columns, 
which  are  visible  to  a  height  of  100  ft. 

In  descending,  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  top,  we  reach  a 


80     Route  13.  PETERSBERG. 

finger-post  on  the  path  by  which  we  ascended,  indicating  the  way 
to  Konigswinter  and  Heisterbach.  After  10  min.  this  path  joins 
the  Heisterbach  carriage-road,  from  which,,  farther  on,  the  foot- 
paths to  Konigswinter  and  the  Petersberg  diverge  to  the  left,  and 
one  to  Heisterbach  to  the  right.  To  the  left  rise  the  Rosenau 
(1063  ft.")  and  Nonnenstromberg  (1105  ft,);  to  the  right,  the  Sten- 
zelberg  (945  ft.),  with  extensive  trachyte  quarries. 

In  50  min.  after  leaving  the  top  of  the  Oelberg  we  reach  the 
4 Heisterbaeher  ManteV,  a  beautiful  valley  in  which  are  situated  the 
remains  of  the  venerable  Cistercian  Abbey  of  "Heisterbach  (475  ft.). 
The  gate  still  bears  the  anus  of  the  abbey,  a  Heister  (young  beech) 
and  a  Bach  (brook) ;  at  the  side  stand  St.  Benedict  and  St.  Bernard 
as  guardians.  Of  the  once  magnificent  abbey-ohurch ,  erected  in 
the  transition-style  in  1202-33,  the.  extremity  of  the  choir,  with 
its  slender  basaltic  pillars,  is  alone  extant,  forming  a  singularly 
picturesque  ruin.  The  abbey  itself  was  sold  and  almost  entirely 
removed  in  the  year  1806.  Some  of  the  finest  old  German  pictures 
in  the  Pinakothek  at  Munich  were  brought  from  Heisterbach.  Re- 
freshments at  the  farm-buildings.  The  abbey-lands  are  now  the 
property  of  Count  zur  Lippe. 

The  road  passing  Heisterbach  terminates  at  Dollendorf  (railway- 
station,  p.  68),  IV2  M.  distant. 

From  Hbistbbbach  to  KOnigswintbb..  The  well-trodden  path 
leads  from  the  gate  of  the  abbey  to  the  left,  and  then  along  the  N.  and 
W.  slopes  of  the  Petersberg  (1096  ft.),  on  the  summit  of  which  are 
a  chapel  commanding  a  fine  view  and  a  good  restaurant.  It  traverses 
the  wood  and  finally  vineyards ,  and  reaches  Konigswinter  in  40 
minutes.  [In  the  reverse  direction,  we  follow  the  Drachenfels  road 
to  a  point  40  paces  beyond  the  railway-crossing,  where  a  finger- 
post on  the  left  indicates  the  way  to  Heisterbach.]  On  the  N.E. 
side  of  the  Petersberg  is  a  basalt  quarry,  the  stones  from  which  are 
conveyed  to  the  (3/4  M.)  road  near  Dollendorf  by  means  of  a  wire- 
rope  railway. 

The  ascent  of  the  Petersberg  from  Heisterbach  takes  half-an-hour.  On 
passing  through  the  old  gate  of  the  convent  we  turn  to  the  right  and 
then  ascend  along  the  wall.  Numerous  guide-posts  make  it  impossible  to 
miss  the  way. 

The  Lowbnbub-g  is  usually  ascended  from  Honnef  or  Rhondorf. 
From  Honnef  a  new  carriage-road  ascends  through  the  wooded 
Schmeherthal  or  Asbacher-Thal  to  the  top  in  2  hours.  Walkers  fol- 
low the  'Bergstrasse'  leading  to  the  N.  past  the  church ;  after  5  min , 
a  finger-post  to  the  left  by  a  garden- wall  indicates  the  way ;  by  an- 
other finger-post,  2  min.  farther,  we  turn  to  the  right  and  then  go 
straight  on  in  the  same  direction,  reaching  the  top  in  IVi  hour.  The 
path  is  more  interesting  in  the  reverse  direction  owing  to  the  fine 
views  of  the  Rhine  which  it  commands. 

Fbom  Rhondorf  (p.  68 ;  railway-stat.)  a  broad  bridle-path  as- 
cends through  the  narrow  valley  flanked  on  the  N.  by  the  heights 


L&WENBURG.  13.  Route.    81 

ofthe  Wolkenburg,  the  Ptrtverhahn,  SchalUrbery  (1007 ft.),  and 
Geisberg  (1080  ft),  and  on  the  S.  by  the  broad  Brtibtrg  (1043  ft. ; 
finger-post  to  the  right;  view  from  the  top),  and  reaches  the  Lft- 
wenburger  Hof  in  I1/4  hr.  —  The  Lovtenburger  Hof  (1180  ft.)  Is  a 
forester's  house  with  a  restaurant,  whence  the  top  is  attained  after 
a  somewhat  steep  ascent  of  15-20  minutes. 

The  *Ldwenburs;  (1505  ft.),  an  extensive  ruined  castle  on  a 
wooded  peak  of  dolerite,  visible  from  the  Rhine,  and  now  embel- 
lished with  pleasure-  grounds,  was  once  the  scene  of  the  conferences 
of  Hermann ,  Elector  of  Cologne  and  Count  of  Wied,  with  the  re- 
formers Melanchthon  and  Buoer,  before  he  became  a  convert  to  Pro- 
testantism in  1541  (p.  72).  Here,  too,  in  the  troublous  times  of 
1583,  Elector  Gebhard  resided  with  his  wife,  the  beautiful  Countess 
Agnes  von  Mansfeld ,  whom  he  had  abducted  from  the  convent  of 
Gerresheim.    The  summit  commands  an  admirable  view. 

From  the  Lowe n burger  Hof  a  road,  forming  the  continuation 
of  the  road  from  Honnef,  leads  towards  the  N.  along  the  £.  slope  of 
the  Lohrberg  (1443  ft.).  After  10  min.  a  finger-post  on  the  left  in- 
dicates the  path  to  the  summit  of  the  Lohrberg,  which  may  be 
reached  in  10  min.  (tower  with  view).  The  road  reaches  the  Marga- 
rethenhof  (comp.  p.  79)  in  25  min.  more. 

The  Hir*chberg(836ft.),  crowned  with  a  belvedere,  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  valley  enclosed  by  the  Seven 
Mts.  The  footpath  diverges  from  the  road  in  the  saddle  between 
the  Hirschberg  and  the  Wolkenburg,  about  200  paces  before  the 
point  where  the  Drachenfels  and  Oelberg  roads  separate,  and  reaches 
the  summit  in  4/4  hour. 

14.  Valley  of  the  Mr. 

Camp.  Map  p.  $6. 

The  Ahr  rises  at  Blankenhekn  (p.  181)  in  the  Eifel,  traverses  a  wind- 
ing, picturesque,  and  generally  narrow  valley,  54  M.  long,  and  falls  into 
the  Rhine  below  Sinzig.  The  river  is  always  rapid  and  often  overflows 
its  banks  in  rainy  weather. 

The  full-flavoured,  dark -red  wines  produced  by  the  vineyards  of  the 
Ahr,  which  in  good  seasons  yield  upwards  of  600,000  gallons  (the  best 
are  those  of  Walporzheim,  Ahrweiler,  and  Bodendorf),  are  still  termed 
'MrbleicherVy  although  the  name  signifies  'pale  red  wine  of  the  Ahr\  It 
was  formerly  customary ,  after  pressing  the  grapes ,  to  draw  off  the  juice 
immediately ,  before  the  setting  in  of  fermentation.  The  wine  thus  pre- 
pared was  of  a  pink  colour.  The  French  plan  of  allowing  fermentation  to 
begin  before  the  separation  of  the  juice  from  the  skins  has  however  long 
been  in  vogue ,  and  the  dark-red  colour  ia  the  result.  At  the  principal 
places  in  the  Ahr  valley  the  Win%ervei>ein,  or  Vintage  Club,  has  established 
good  taverns,  where  the  wine  is  supplied  in  its  native  purity. 

Millions  of  'Riimpchen"  (cyprinus  phoxinus),  small  flsh  1-2  in.  in 
length,  are  caught  in  the  Ahr,  boiled  in  salt-water,  and  packed  in  willow- 
bark  for  exportation.  They  are  dressed  with  vinegar  and  oil,  and  esteem- 
ed a  great  delicacy. 

Feom  Rbmagbn  to  Ahbwbiler  ,  8M.,  branch-railway  in  36- 
46  min.  (fares  1  m.  10,  80,  60  pf.). 

Baedekers  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  6 


82     Route  14.  NEUENAHR.  Ahr  Valley. 

Remagen,  see  p.  57.  —  The  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Victoria-Berg  and  enters  the  fruitful  and  well-cultivated  district  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ahr,  known  as  the  'Goldene  Meil'.  3  M.  Boden- 
dorf,  a  village  about  l1^^-  from  Sinzig  (j>.  65),  the  church  of 
which  is  uescried  to  the  left.  Farther  on  we  obtain  a  view  to  the 
left  of  the  wooded  hills  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr.  Along  the 
river  grow  numerous  willows,  which  are  used  for  basket-making 
and  other  purposes. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  *Land*kron  (912  ft.),  a  lofty  basaltic 
hill,  which  may  be  ascended  in  V2  nr*  either  from  Lohrsdorf  (at  its 
8. E. -base,  IV2  M.  from  Bodendorf)  or  from  Heppingen  (to  the  W., 
IY2  M-  from  Neuenahr). 

The  castle  on  the  summit  is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  1205  by 
Emp.  Philip  of  Hohenstaufen,  when  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la- 
Chapelle,  tor  the  purpose  of  keeping  in  check  the  hostile  Archbishop 
Bruno  of  Cologne,  it  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1677  and  again  in 
1682  by  Elector  William  of  Cologne.  The  richly  endowed  Chapel  on  the 
S.W.  side  of  the  summit  has  been  spared;  a  basaltic  grotto  serves  as  a 
sacristy.  SI  ear  it  is  a  quantity  of  massive  basalt,  overlying  columnar  ba- 
salt. The  view  embraces  the  Ahrthal  from  Ahrweiler  to  the  Rhine,  the 
higher  peaks  of  the  Seven  Mts.,  to  the  S.  a  portion  of  the  Eifel  with  the 
castle  of  Olbriick,  and  to  the  W.  the  ruin  of  Tomberg  near  Meckenheim. 

At  the  W.  base  of  the  Lands krou  are  the  Heppinger-  and  the 
Landskroner- Miner al^uelle ,  two  refreshing  springs,  impregnated 
with  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  ApoUinarisbrunnen,  a  similar  spring, 
is  situated  a  little  farther  up  the  valley;  its  water  is  now  well 
known  in  England,  and  Is  also  exported  to  America,  Holland,  and 
India.  About  50,000  bottles  are  filled  daily,  and  750,000  are  dis- 
patched every  month  to  America  alone. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  2  M.  from  Neuenahr,  lies  Hei- 
mersheim,  the  small,  but  handsome  church  of  which,  with  its  fine 
octagonal  tower  over  the  centre  of  the  transept,  closely  resembles 
that  of  Sinzig.  Choir  richly  adorned.  Stained  glass  of  the  ear.y- 
Gothic  period. 

6  M.  Neuenahr.  —  Hotels.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr:  *Cur- 
uads,  with  150  apartments,  post  and  telegraph-ofiice,  baths  in  a  building 
on  the  Jtt.  side;  Concordia-,  Victoria-,  Hkimes,  etc.  On  the  left  bank  of 
the  Ahr,  near  the  station :  Hotel  dk  Hollands  j  Krone  ;  Gkrmania,  these 
three  well  spoken  of;  Flora;  Thau  be;  Rheiniscder  Hof;  Walbdrgis- 
sxift,  unpretending,  'pens.'  41/*  m.  Private  apartments  may  also  be  pro- 
cured. 

Cafes.    Bellevue,  Berg  Xeuenahr,  with  gardens. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  village,  1  pers.  60,  each  additional 
pers.  30  pi.     To  Walporzheim,  etc.,  same  charges  as  at  Ahrweiler. 

Neuenahr t  a  flourishing  modern  watering-place,  containing  1600 
inhab.  and  visited  by  3000  patients  yearly,  consists  of  two  formerly 
separate  villages,  Wadenheim,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ahr,  and  Betd, 
on  the  right.  The  railway-station,  the  post-office,  and  the  new 
Protestant  church  lie  on  the  left  bank,  while  the  Curhaus  and  the 
Koinan  Catholic  church  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The 
*  water  of  the  five  copious  thermal  springs  {86-104°  Fahr.),  resem- 
bling that  of  Ems,  is  a  weak  solution  of  car  Donate  of  soda,  with  an 


Ahr  Valley.  AHRWEILER.  14.  Route.    83 

insignificant  admixture  of  carbonate  of  magnesia  and  carbonate  of 
lime,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid.  The  most  im- 
portant of  all  is  the  Qrowe  Sprudcl,  discovered  in  1861.  It  occasion- 
ally rises  in  a  thick  jet,  8-10  ft.  in  height.  The  springs  are  beneficial 
in  cases  of  chronic  catarrh,  derangement  of  the  pulmonary  and  diges- 
tive organs,  enlargement  of  the  liver,  and  uric  acid  diathesis.  The 
climate  of  Neuenahr  is  admirably  suited  for  persons  with  weak  lungs. 
Pleasant  walks  surround  the  Curhaus  and  extend  along  the  stream. 
A  road  near  the  Victoria  Hotel  and  a  footpath  at  the  Roman  Catholic 
church  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  wooded  basaltic  hill  which  is  crown- 
ed with  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Neuenahr,  built  by  Otto 
von  Are  about  1226.  The  Are  family  became  extinct  in  1353,  and 
the  castle  then  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Knights  of  Rodesberg, 
who  afterwards  assumed  the  title  Count  of  Neuen-Are.  It  was  de- 
stroyed in  1371  by  Archbishop  Siegfried  of  Cologne  with  the  help 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Ahrweiler.  The  small  tower  at  the  top  com- 
mands a  fine  view. 

Beyond  Neuenahr  the  train  passes  Hemmcstem,  and  then  reaches — 
8  M.   Ahrweiler.  —  HoteU.   Krone;  8tebn;   Dkltbches  Haus.  — 
Kreulzberg'e  Restaurant. 

Carriage  Tariff.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  1  pers.  60,  each  ad- 
ditional pers.  30  pf. ;  to  the  Calvarienberg  1  m.,  each  addit.  pers.  40  pf.  •, 
to  Walporzheim,  Marienthal,  or  Neuenahr ,  one-horse  (for  1-3  pers.)  iy«, 
two-horse  (4-5  pers.)  2y«  m. ;  to  Altenahr  5  or  7  m.,  there  and  back  within 
seven  hours  7  or  10,  spending  the  whole  day  10  or  13.  passing  the  night 
there  14  or  18  m. ;  to  Adenau  12  or  15,  there  and  back  15  or  18  m. ;  to  the 
Laacher  See  13  or  16  m..  there  and  back  17  or  22  m. 

Ahrweiler  (340  ft.),  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  is  a  thriving 
little  town  with  4000inhab.,  surrounded  by  old  walls,  and  carrying 
on  an  active  trade  in  wine.  In  the  middle  ages  it  belonged  to  the 
Electorate  of  Cologne,  and  was  repeatedly  besieged  during  the  feud 
between  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral,  to  which  it  adhered,  and  the 
deposed  archbishops.  In  1646  and  1680  the  town  was  besieged  by 
the  French,  by  whom  in  1689  it  was  entirely  burned  with  the  ex- 
ception of  ten  houses.  The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence,  founded 
in  1245,  dates  partly  from  the  14th  and  the  end  of  the  15th  cen- 
tury. Fine  view  from  the  Calvarienberg,  a  rooky  height  72  M.  to 
theS.,  on '.the  right  bank  of  the  Ahr,  crowned  with  a  Franciscan 
monastery,  dating  from  1678,  but  occupied  since  1838  by  a  girls1 
school  managed  by  Ursuline  nuns. 

Ahrweiler  lies  near  the  entrance  to  the  narrower  part  of  the  Ahr 
Valley,  which  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  districts  on  the  Khine 
and  especially  well  suited  for  walkers  (to  Altenahr  7y2  M.).  The 
contraction  of  the  valley  begins  at  Walporaheim  {*St,  Peter,  with 
garden,  good  wine),  3/4  M.  from  Ahrweiler,  a  place  mentioned  un- 
der the  name  of  Walpredeshoven  in  a  document  of  893,  and  long 
celebrated  for  its  wine. 

The  road  now  enters  a  rocky  ravine,  flanked  by  jagged  and  riven 
cliffs  of  slate;  pn  the  left  rushes  the  Ahr,  on  the  right  rises  an 

6* 


84     Route  14.  LOCHMUHLE.  Ahr  Valley. 

almost  perpendicular  black  wall  of  slate-rock,  from  which  a  single 
ridge  called  the  lBunte  KuV  projects.  At  the  top  is  a  small  belve- 
dere (Refreshments) ,  which  commands  an  admirable  view,  espe- 
cially by  evening-light,  and  may  be  reached  either  from  Ahrweiler 
or  Walporzheim.  To  the  right  of  the  road,  are  the  ruins  of  the  nun- 
nery of  Marienthal  (l^M.),  near  the  hamlet  of  that  name. 

Beyond  (3/4M.).Dernati(*Brenig,  plain)  a  footpath,  destitute  of 
shade,  but  preferable  to  the  dusty  high-road,  diverges  and  follows 
the  bank  of  the  Ahr,  passing  (but  not  crossing)  an  old  stone  bridge, 
and  traversing  a  more  open  part  of  the  valley,  to  (l^flf.)  Reeh, 
where  the  valley  again  contracts.  The  Ahr  winds  through  a  wild, 
rocky  district.  The  road  follows  the  course  of  the  stream,  rounding 
the  precipitous  Saffenburg,  to  (lJ/4  M.)  Mayschoss  and  the  (^  M.) 
Lochmuhle  (see  below). 

The  Kraus,  Vfe  hr.  to  the  S.  of  Dernau,  the  highest  mountain  in  the 
vicinity,  commands  an  extensive  prospect,  reaching  as  far  as  Cologne. 

The  pedestrian  may  prefer  the  following  route  from  Rech  to  the 
Lochmuhle,  which  is  not  longer  than  the  above  (1%  M.).  Near 
the  bridge  (on  the  right  bank),  a  path  ascends  to  the  right  through 
the  vineyards  (closed  from  the  end  of  August  till  the  end  of  the 
vintage)  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  on  which  stand  the  fragments  of 
the  Saffenburg  (846  ft.),  the  view  from  which  is  picturesque, 
although  limited.  The  castle  was  captured  by  the  French  in  1702 
and  destroyed  by  the  Imperial  troops  in  1704.  On  the  W.  side  of 
the  Saffenburg  the  path  descends  rapidly  to  the  road  at  the  bridge 
of  Mayschoss,  near  the  Lochmuhle. 

The  Lochmuhle  (*Inn,  R.,  B.,  &  S.  372  m.)  lies  at  the  en- 
trance of  a  deep  cutting  through  the  projecting  grauwacke  rocks,  in 
which  an  oblique  vein  of  basalt,  2lfe  ft.  thick,  is  perceptible.  The 
valley  is  narrow,  and  the  road  is  partly  hewn  in  the  rock,  and 
partly  supported  by  masonry  on  the  brink  of  the  stream. 

The  road  next  passes  the  hamlets  of  Laach  and  Reimtrzhofen, 
at  the  latter  of  which,  1  M.  from  the  Lochmuhle,  pedestrians  should 
ascend  a  path  through  the  vineyards  to  the  right  (see  below).  The 
road  remains  in  the  valley  and  soon  reaches  the  Durckbruch,  a  tunnel 
about  70  yds.  long,  constructed  in  1830-33,  by  means  of  which  the 
circuit  of  1 V2  M.  described  by  the  valley  is  cut  off.  At  the  end  of 
the  tunnel,  3/4  M.  from  Reimerzhofen  and  2  M.  from  the  Lochmuhle, 
lies  the  ancient  village  of  Altenahr  (*Caspari;  *Rheimscher  Hof), 
situated  amidst  very  picturesque  scenery ,  and  the  finest  point  in 
the  valley  of  the  Ahr.  The  prettily  situated  Romanesque  church 
has  a  Gothic  choir.    Pleasing  view  from  the  churchyard. 

It  is,  however,  much  preferable  to  quit  the  road  at  Reimerzhofen, 
and  ascend  the  above-mentioned  path  to  the  right  through  vineyards 
(closed  during  the  vintage)  to  the  so-called  *  Weisse  Kreuz  ('white 
cross' ;  */4  nr-  )>  visible  from  the  road.  It  stands  on  a  rocky  ridge,  361  ft. 
above  the  stream,  and  commands  a  strikingly  picturesque  view,  eur- 


Ahr  Valley.         CASTLE  OF  ALTENAHR.       14.  Route.     85 

passing  thai  from  the  castle  of  Altenahr,  as  the  latter  itself  forms 
the  foreground  of  the  wild,  rocky  landscape.  The  path  descends  on 
the  other  side  to  Altenahr  in  8  minutes. 

The  *Caatle  of  Altenahr  (892  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  371  ft. 
above  the  village),  the  ruins  of  which  are  perched  like  an  eagle's 
nest  on  a  bold,  jagged  cliff,  rising  immediately  above  the  village, 
was  once  the  seat  of  the  powerful  Counts  of  the  Are  and  afterwards 
of  the  Counts  of  Hochstaden,  of  whose  elder  branch  Conrad,  Arch- 
bishop of  Cologne,  the  founder  of  the  cathedral  of  Cologne  in  1248, 
was  the  last  scion.  The  castle,  which  is  said  to  have  existed  as 
early  as  the  10th  cent. ,  was  considerably  strengthened  by  the 
Electors  of  Cologne  in  the  14th  and  15th ;  it  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  French  in  1672  and  again  in  1690,  and  was  finally  destroyed  in 
consequence  of  the  Peace  of  Utrecht  (1714).  On  one  occasion  when 
the  castle  was  captured,  the  chivalrous  Count  von  Are  is  said  to 
have  thrown  himself  down  the  precipice  adjoining  the  principal 
tower  to  avoid  being  taken  prisoner.  Admission  30,  for  a  single 
visitor  50  pf.  (custodian  generally  at  the  ruin  in  summer). 

Another  excellent  point  of  view  is  the  "Horn,  above  Altenahr : 
to  Altehburg,  s/4  M.,  thence  to  the  pavilion  with  a  guide,  an  ascent 
of  3/4  hr. 

The  scenery  of  the  Ahrthal  is  most  striking  when  approached  by  the 
Enskirchm  road  (comp.  p.  181). 

There  are  also  several  picturesque  points  in  the  ▼alley  of  the  Ahr 
above  Altenahr  (diligence  daily  to  Adenau,  Kelberg,  Uelmen,  Cochem,  etc.). 
One  of  the  best  views  is  obtained  from  the  bridge  over  the  Ahr :  to  the 
left  are  the  rugged  rocks  of  the  Tetifel$kanzel  (Devil's  Pulpit);  then  the 
grand  mass  of  rocks  known  as  the  Alte  Burg  (old  castle),  with  the  ham- 
let of  Altenburg;  on  a  bold  eminence  near  Krewtberg  rises  a  picturesque 
chateau.  Another  fine  point  of  view  is  the  hill  beyond  the  village  of 
PUtzfeld,  about  3Vs  M.  from  Altenahr.  About  V<  M-  farther  on  is  BrVck 
(Nachtsheim),  at  the  entrance  to  the  picturesque  rocky  Kettelinger  Thai, 
through  which  a  carriage-road  leads  to  (87s  M.)  Kaltenborn  (Langenfeld ; 
hence  to  the  Hohe  Acht  7a  hr.),  etc.  ■  The  road  through  the  Ahrthal  next 
passes  ff&nningen  and  Liers ,  and  reaches  (4  M.)  Dilmp el/eld  (see  below). 
—  Our  road  here  quits  the  Ahr  and  leads  to  (47s  M.)  — 

127s  M.  (from  Altenahr)  Adenau  (960  ft. ;  *  Salter  Mend;  Krone;  Lfftce), 
the  principal  village  of  the  district,  with  1400  inhab.,  near  which  rise  two 
basaltic  peaks,  the  highest  points  in  the  Eifel.  The  nearer  of  these  is  the 
Hiirburg  (2181  ft.),  IV*  kr.  to  the  8.,  surmounted  by  a  ruined  castle  men- 
tioned as  early  as  943,  with  a  lofty  tower  commanding  a  beautiful  pano- 
rama (ascent  from  Quiddelbach,  on  the  Kelberg  road,  3  M.  from  Adenau, 
turning  to  the  left  beyond  the  village,  20  min j  key  of  the  tower  at  the 
inn).  The  *Hohe  Acht  (2410  ft.),  2  hrs.  to  the  E.,  commands  an  even 
more  extensive  view  over  the  Eifel  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  the  Rhine, 
and  even  the  cathedral  of  Cologne.  At  the  top  is  a  small  refuge-hut.  Guide 
from  Adenau  1-lVsm. 

On  the  Ahr,  which  the  road  quits  at  DUmptlfeld  (see  above),  there 
are  two  other  fine  points :  Schuld,  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Diimpelfeld,  and  the 
ruined  castle  of  Aremberg,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  Dukes  of  Aremberg, 
near  Antweiler  (Neubutch).  Antweiler  lies  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  Adenau. 
Diligence  from  Adenau  to  (18V*  M-)  Blankenheim  (p.  181)  once  daily  in 
47s  hrs.  (fare  3  m.).    The  new  road  through  the  valley  is  nearly  completed. 


86 

15.   From  Andernach  to  Mayen.    Brohlthal.  Laacher 
See. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  56. 

The  Laacher  See  may  be  visited  either  from  Niedermendig  (1  hr.)  or 
from  Brohl  (3  hrs.).  Distances:  from  Brohl  to  Tonnisstein  3V2  M.,  Was- 
senach  2'/2,  Abbey  of  Laach  3,  Niedermendig  3  M. 

Carriage  Tariff.  From  Andernach  via  Niedermendig,  Laach,  and  Ton- 
nisstein to  Brohl  19V2in.  •  to  Laach  Abbey  in  2  hrs.,  thence  to  Brohl  in 
2  hrs.  more.  —  Prom  Brohl  to  Tonnisstein,  one-horse  3,  two-horse  5,  there 
and  back  5  or  8  m.  *,  to  Laach  8  or  11,  there  and  back  10  or  13V2  m. ;  per 
day  11  or  16  m.  —  From  Niedermendig  (Job.  Honer)  to  Laach  4  or  6*,  Ton- 
nisstein 7  or  9 ;  Brohl  10  or  15  m.  Omnibus  from  Niedermendig  to  Laach  1  m. 

From  Andbrnach  to  Matbn,  14  M.,  branch-railway  in  1  hr. 
(fares  2, 1%  1  m. ;  to  Niedermendig  in  3/4hr.,  1  m.  20,  90,  60pf.). 

Andernach,  see  p.  61.  4  M.  Plaidt ;  the  village  (360  ft. ;  Zillien) 
lies  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  station.  In  the  vicinity  are  extensive 
trass-mines  (comp.  p,  87). 

The  valley  of  tbe  Nette,  a  stream  which  joins  the  Rhine  opposite  Neu- 
wied  (p.  62),  contains  a  number  of  picturesque  points.  From  the  station 
of  Plaidt,  leaving  the  village  to  the  right,  we  reach  in  V*  hr.  the  *Bau*ehe- 
miihle,  where  the  Nette  is  precipitated  over  blocks  of  lava,  forming  a 
series  of  small  cascades.  The  rich  vegetation  enhances  the  beauty  of  the 
scene.  Tastefully  kept  walks  (to  which  visitors  are  admitted)  unite  the 
principal  points  of  view.  Good  restaurant.  —  The  valley  of  the  Nette  here 
contracts  and  runs  towards  the  S.  On  a  rock  rising  abruptly  from  the 
Nette,  1V2  M.  farther  up,  stands  the  ruin  of  *Wernerseck  (560  ft.),  with  a 
well-preserved  tower.  The  regular,  barren  streaks  of  lava  on  the  upper 
slopes  of  tbe  valley,  the  lower  parts  of  which  are  covered  with  vegetation, 
form  a  peculiar  feature  of  the  scenery.  Those  who  do  not  intend  to  return 
hence  to  Plaidt  may  proceed  direct  from  Wernerseck  between  the  Korrets- 
berg  and  Plaidter  Hummerich  to  (2  M.)  Krvft  (see  below). 

The  hills  which  are  now  visible  on  both  sides  of  the  line  are  all 
extinct  volcanoes :  to  the  right  are  the  Nickenicher  Weinberg  and 
the  Krufter  Ofen  (1538  ft. ;  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Laacher  See, 
1  M.  distant) ;  to  the  left,  the  Plaidter  Hummerich  (968  ft.),  with 
its  saddle-like  summit,  and  the  Korretsberg  (984  ft.).  —  6  M.  Kraft 
(Werle).  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  rises  the  Tonchesberg.  In  the 
distance,  also  to  the  left,  in  the  plain,  is  the  Frauenkirche,  or  church 
of  St.  Genovefa,  where  according  to  the  legend  the  saint  was  found 
by  her  husband  Siegfried,  Count  Palatine  of  Hohensimmern.  The 
church  contains  monuments  of  both.  Numerous  mineral  springs 
bubble  up  on  the  road-side,  near  the  brook  which  crosses  the  road, 
the  water  of  which  is  now  bottled  and  exported. 

9«/2  M.  Niedermendig  (Schmitz),  a  village  with  2300  inhab., 
famous  for  the  extensive  ^Quarries  of  Basaltic  Lava  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. The  subterranean  strata,  occupying  an  area  3  M.  in 
length  and  l*/2  M.  in  breadth,  extend  to  the  Krufter  Ofen  (see 
above),  but  the  lava-stream,  which  was  probably  ejected  by  the 
Hoohstein  (1772  ft.,  to  the  W.),  is  thickest  at  Niedermendig.  The 
quarries,  which  are  chiefly  under  ground ,  and  were  probably  once 
worked  by  the  Romans,  are  almost  all  connected,  and  communicate 
with  the  surface  of  the  earth  by  means  of  wide  shafts.    The  roof  is 


MA  YEN.  15.  Route.    87 

supported  by  massive  pillars  left  for  the  purpose.  The  descent  is 
by  narrow  flights  of  steps.  A  guide  (1  m.1  precedes  visitors  with  a 
torch ;  the  inspection  occupies  an  hour.  The  temperature  in  these 
mines  is  so  low  that  even  in  summer  masses  of  ice  are  seen  in  all 
directions.  The  hardness  and  durability  of  the  lava  adapt  it  ad- 
mirably for  millstones,  as  well  as  for  paving  and  building  purposes. 
The  deserted  galleries  are  used  as  beer-cellars',  to  which  the  beer  of 
Niedermendig  is  chiefly  indebted  for  its  reputation.  —  Omnibuses 
and  carriages  meet  all  the  trains  to  convey  travellers  to  the  (3  M.") 
Laacher  See  (p.  88).  The  second  half  of  the  route,  after  the  in- 
tervening hills  have  been  crossed,  affords  a  charming  view  of  the 
lake  and  the  line  abbey-church. 

The  train  continues  to  wind  its  way  among  hills.  —  12V2  W. 
Cottenheim  fMay\  To  the  right  is  the  Mayener  Bellenberg,  beyond 
which,  rises  the  Ettringer  Bellehberg  (see  below"). 

14  M.  Hayen  f780  ft. ;  *Kohlhaas,  in  the  market-place*),  a  dis- 
trict-town with  6800  inhab.,  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  a 
castle  built  in  1280  and  still  partly  preserved.  To  the  N.  of  the 
station  are  several  lava-quarries,  but  nearer  the  surface  than  those 
already  mentioned,  and  some  of  them  partially  open. 

The  lava-bed  in  which  they  are  worked  is  the  outlet  of  the  ancient 
volcano  of  Ettringer-Bellenberg  (1407  ft),  lViM.  to  the  K.  of  May  en.  The 
E.  side  of  the  crater  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  fertile  plain  between 
Mayen  and  Andernach,  and  of  the  Rhine  Valley.  A  more  extensive  view 
is  enjoyed  from  the  Hoch  simmer  (18P3  ft.),  ascended  from  Hay  en  in  l1/*  hour. 

About  3  M.  to  the  "N.W.  of  Hay  en,  beyond  St.  Johann,  is  situated  the 
well-preserved  turretted  chateau  of  *BVrrtiheim ,  on  a  hill  partially  sur- 
rounded by  the  Kette.  It  is  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  12th 
cent-,  and  now  belongs  to  a  Count  Renesse-Breitbach.  —  About  3Vt  H.  to 
the  8.W.  of  Hayen  is  Monreal  (Kircher),  charmingly  situated  in  the  Eltt- 
thal,  with  two  ruined  castles,  the  larger  and  more  modern  of  which  dates 
from  1229.  —  A  pleasant  round  may  be  made  from  Haven  as  follows:  to 
the  Hochsimmer,  I1/2  hr. ;  St.  Johann  and  Biirresheim,  *U  hr.  \  then  across 
a  bridge  below  Biirresheim  and  through  the  first  wooded  valley  to  Cnr- 
rtnberg,  3A  br. ;  thence  by  Reudeltterz  to  Honreal,  1  hr. ;  back  to  Hayen, 
i'/«  hr.  _________ 

From  Bbohl  to  the  Laachbr  Seb,  9  M.  (carriage,  see  p.  86"). 

Brohl  (p.  61 ;  184  ft.  above  the  sea)  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Brohlthal,  a  deep  winding  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  moun- 
tains, and  enlivened  with  numerous  mills  and  houses.  An  object 
of  great  interest  is  the  extensive  stratum  of  Tufa,  50-100  ft.  in 
thickness ,  of  which  the  floor  of  the  valley  consists ,  and  above 
which  rise  slopes  of  Devonian  slate  (p.  xviii).  This  tufa  is  an 
important  article  of  commerce,  and  Is  extensively  excavated  from 
quarries  and  mines  on  both  sides  of  the  valley.  When  pounded 
('trass')  and  mixed  with  lime  it  possesses  the  invaluable  property 
of  hardening  under  water,  and  is  largely  exported  to  Holland  for 
the  construction  of  dykes.  Numerous  springs  strongly  impregnated 
with  carbonio  acid  gas,  near  the  Laacher  See,  and  especially  in  the 
Brohlthal,  still  afford  indication  of  Blumbering  volcanic  agency, 


88     Route  15.  LAACHER  SEE. 

The  road  which  ascends  the  valley,  skirting  the  Brohlbach,  is 
flanked  on  both  sides  with  numerous  tufa  quarries,  some  of  which 
are  open,  while  others  are  driven  like  mining-shafts  into  the  hill. 
After  2  M. ,  in  the  middle  of  the  valley ,  rises  the  small  castle  of 
Schweppenburg  (311  ft.),  probably  erected  in  the  16th  century. 
The  garden  contains  a  Roman  altar  found  here. 

The  Heilbbunneb  Thai.,  which  diverges  here  to  the  S.,  contains  the 
Heilbrunnen  (384  ft),  a  mineral  spring  of  saltish,  hut  refreshing  taste,  sim- 
ilar to  the  Kreuzbrunnen  of  Harienbad. 

About  IV4  M.  from  Schweppenburg,  a  road  diverges  to  the  left 
through  a  side-valley  to  the  Laacher  See ;  the  main  road  to  the  right 
leads  to  Olbruck  (see  below).  By  the  former  we  soon  reach  Bad  Tdn- 
nisstein  (410  ft.),  the  water  of  which,  strongly  impregnated  with 
carbonic  acid,  resembling  that  of  Selters,  was  collected  in  a  tank  as 
early  as  1700.  Passing  travellers  find  good  accommodation  during 
the  season  at  the  Gurhaus  (R. ,  L. ,  &  A.  2  m. ,  B.  80  pf. ;  table 
d'h6te  at  1  p.m.). 

The  road  through  the  Brohl  Valley  leads  on  to  (1 M.)  Burgbrohl  (180  ft. ; 
''Bell),  picturesquely  situated,  with  an  old  castle,  once  the  seat  of  a  fa- 
mily of  that  name.  The  road  next  passes  (3  M.)  Nieder-Zis$en,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Bausenberg,  which  rises  to  the  N.  of  the  village.  The  summit  of 
this  hill  forms  the  most  perfectly  denned  crater  of  those  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Laacher  See;  the  inner  margin  consists  of  precipitous  slag-rocks, 
80  ft.  in  height,  opening  towards  the  K.W.  The  hollow  is  occupied  by 
a  farm. 

The  next  places  are  (llA  M.)  Ober-Zissen,  (1  M.)  Hain,  and  (1  M.)  the 
castle  of  *01brflck  (1552  ft. ;  now  the  property  of  Herr  yon  Ekespare),  one 
of  the  highest  points  in  this  district,  with  an  extensive  view  of  the  vol- 
canic peaks  of  the  Eifel,  the  hills  towards  the  Rhine  (with  Cologne)  and 
the  Seven  Hts.  The  peak  on  which  it  stands  consists  of  clink-stone  or 
phonolite,  also  a  volcanic  product.  The  castle  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1689.  From  Olbruck  to  the  abbey  of  Laach,  via  Engeln,  8  M.  —  From 
Nieder-Zitten  (see  above),  a  road  leads  past  the  volcanic  peak  (*/<  hr.)  of 
Herehenberg  (1063  ft.),  (25  min.)  Ober  -  L&tzingen^nd.  (20  min.)  Nieder- 
Liltzingen,  to  (40  min.)  the  castle  of  Rheineck  (p.  60),  where  we  reach  the 
Rhine,  a  walk  of  about  V/%  M.  in  all.  —  From  Nieder-Zissen  to  tfeuenahr 
(p.  82),  about  12  M. 

The  road  to  the  Laacher  See  diverges  to  the  right  below  the  Gur- 
haus, before  the  bridge  is  crossed,  passes  (1/3  M.)  the  ruins  of  the 
(1.)  Carmelite  monastery  of  Antoniusstein  (hence  the  corruption 
'Tonnisstein'),  again  ascends  to  the  right  to  (1%  M.)  Wassenach 
(915  ft. ;  poor  inn),  and  then  descends  through  wood  towards  the 
Laacher  See.  On  the  right  rises  the  wooded  VeiUkopf  (1381  ft.),  a 
volcanic  peak  with  a  double  crater  opening  on  the  W.,  and  a  broad, 
abruptly  inclined  lava  stream.  The  view  hence  of  the  lake  sur- 
rounded by  wooded  hills  is  very  striking. 

The  "Laacher  See  (902  ft.)  occupies  a  nearly  circular  basin, 
l2/3  M.  in  diameter,  and  5  M.  in  circumference,  and  Is  about 
175  ft.  deep  in  the  middle.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  crater-like  tarns 
of  the  Eifel  (p.  185),  and;  although  not  itself  a  crater,  has  doubtless 
been  formed  by  volcanic  action.  The  road  skirts  the  W.  bank  of 
the  lake, 


LAACH.  15.  Route.     89 

The  volcanic  formations  for  which  the  Vorder-Eife)  is  remarkable 
occur  here  in  very  great  variety,  and  the  lake  itself  has  obviously  been 
the  central  point  of  the  volcanic  activity  of  this  neighbourhood.  It  is 
surrounded  by  five  craters:  the  VtiUkopf(p.  88),  the  Laacherkop/ (ItiOb  ft.), 
the  Laacher  Rotheberg  (1672  ft.),  the  Tellberg  (1328  ft.),  and  the  Kru/Ur 
Of  en  (p.  86).  Upwards  of  forty  different  streams  of  lava,  the  chrono- 
logical order  of  which  has  been  established  with  more  or  leas  precision, 
have  been  counted  in  the  environs  of  the  lake.  There  also  occur  ex- 
tensive masses  of  tufa  of  various  kinds,  particularly  in  the  valleys  de- 
scending towards  the  Rhine,  as  at  Plaidt  and  Kraft  (where  it  is  called 
DvcUtein),  and  in  the  Brohlthal.  The  older  theory ,  which  Oeynhausen 
was  one  of  the  last  to  maintain,  was  that  these  deposits  of  tufa  were 
emitted  from  the  volcanoes  in  the  form  of  mud  *,  but  more  recent  investi- 
gations (by  Humboldt,  Hftggerath,  and  Dechen)  tend  to  show  that  the 
tufa,  as  well  as  the  extensive  beds  of  pumice-stone  in  this  region  (p.  64), 
was  gradually  formed  by  showers  of  volcanic  matter. 

Oeynhausen's  geognostic-orographic  maps  of  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Laacher  See  (Berlin,  1847)  and  Dr.  v.  Dechen's  geognostic  guide  to  the 
Laacher  See  (Bonn,  1864)  are  recommended  to  scientific  travellers. 

On  the  S.W.  bank  rises  the  Benedictine  Abbey  of  *Laaen, 
founded  in  1093  by  Count  Palatine  Henry  II. ,  and  secularised  in 
1802,  onee  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  celebrated  in  Germany. 
In  1863  it  became  the  property  of  the  Jesuits,  who  established  a 
school  here  for  pupils  of  the  order,  but  were  compelled  to  abandon 
it,  in  consequence  of  the  law  of  1872  excluding  Jesuits  from  the 
Empire  of  Germany.  The  *Church  (now  the  property  of  govern- 
ment), completed  in  1156,  with  dome,  five  towers,  and  crypt,  is  a 
noble  example  of  the  Romanesque  style,  being  most  impressive 
externally  (p.  xxviii).  The  beautiful  *Porch  in  front  of  the  W.  facade, 
restored  in  1859,  belongs  to  the  close  of  the  12th  century.  The 
vaulting  in  the  interior  deviates  from  the  usual  style  in  having  its 
longitudinal  sections  in  the  nave  no  broader  than  those  in  the 
aisles.  The  curious  monument  of  the  founder,  a  sarcophagus  with 
a  recumbent  figure,  beneath  a  hexagonal  canopy  supported  by  col- 
umns, dates  from  the  end  of  the  13th  century.  The  two  front 
columns  are  monoliths  of  variegated  'calcs  inter',  found  in  the  Bo- 
man  aqueduct  through  the  Eifel  Mts.  On  the  road-side,  outside 
the  monastery  walls,  is  the  Hdtel  Maria  Loach  (R.  272,  D.  27a, 
'pension1  5  m.),  where  the  keys  of  the  church  may  be  obtained. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  lake,  nearly  opposite  the  abbey,  is  another  ex- 
tensive building,  erected  by  the  Jesuits.  Near  it,  about  20  ft.  above  the 
water,  is  a  'mo/sMs',  a  hollow  7  ft.  in  width,  and  S-4  ft.  in  depth,  whence 
a  stream  of  carbonic  acid  gas  (most  preemptible  in  wet  weather)  constantly 
issues.  The  suffocating  nature  of  the  lower  strata  of  the  air  in  this  hol- 
low may  be  tested  by  stooping  down  and  attempting  to  breathe  it. 

After  an  inundation  in  the  12th  cent,  had  threatened  the  abbey  lands 
with  destruction,  the  Benedictines  sank  a  shaft  on  the  8.  side  of  the  lake, 
by  which  the  superfluous  water  was  conducted  to  the  Nette.  A  similar 
shaft,  constructed  in  1845,  lowered  the  level  of  the  lake  20  ft. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Laach  via  Bell  to  the  top  of 
the  (li/2  hr.)  Gansehals  (1873  ft.),  which  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  Laacher  See,  the  Pellenz,  the  mountains  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle, 
Olbruck  and  the  8even  Mts.  to  the  K.,  etc  From  Bell  to  Niedermendig 
by  OUrmendig  (*Spitz)ay,  plain),  1  hr.  On  the  way  interesting  view  to 
the  right  of  the  Ettringer  Bellenberg  (p.  87),  the  volcanic  character  of 
which  is  clearly  discernible  from  this  side. 


&0 


16.  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein. 


Railway  Stations.  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  96)  together 
possess  three  railway-stations.  1.  Station  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  at  Coblenz 
(PI.  A,  2,  3)  for  the  railway  on  the  Left  Bank  of  the  Rhine,  and  for  the 
trains  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (comp.  p.  68).  —  2.  Moselbahnhof  (PL  A,  4,  5), 
at  the  foot  of  the  Karthause,  lU  M.  from  the  town,  for  the  Moselle  railway 
(R.  25)  and  the  Lahn' railway  (R.  27);  the  trains  of  the  Left  Bank  also 
stop  here.  Cab  from  either  of  these  stations  into  the  town,  1-2  pers. 
75  pf.,  3-4  pers.  IV2  m.,  with  two  horses  1  m.  or  i»/a  m.,  box  10  pf.  — 
3.  Station  of  the  Rhenish  Railway  at  Ehrenbreitstein  (PI.  E,  2),  for  the  rail- 
way of  the  Bight  Bank;  it  is  nearer  to  the  Coblenz  hotels  situated  on 
the  Rhine  than  either  of  the  other  stations,  but  the  hotel-omnibuses  are 
not  sent  to  meet  the  trains.  Cab. with  one  horse  to  Coblenz,  1-4  pers., 
I1/*  m. ;  with  two  horses  2  m. ;  bridge- toll  45-60  pf.  extra. 

Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  *Giant  (PI.  a;  D,  2),  *Bellevue  (PI.  b;  D,  2), 
two  houses  of  the  first  class  and  expensive.  *Ankeb  (PI.  c;  D,  2),  R.,  L., 
&  A.,  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  21/2  m.;  Traube  (PL  g;  D,  2),  in  the  Rhein- 
Strasse,  near  the  Rhine.  —  In  the  Town:  'Hotel  de  Tbbves  (PI.  d;  C,  3), 
&■  U.  Clemens-Platz,  first-class.  Hotel  de  LiAge  (PI.  e;  B,  2),  not  far  from 
^  "**•  the  station  and  the  Moselle  pier,  K.  and  B.  2  m.  50  pf. ;  Wildes  Schwein 
(PI.  f;  B,  2),  in  the  Plan;  Beblineb  Hof,  near  the  Rhenish  station,  un- 
pretending. —  Pensions.  Ernen  (frequented  by  English  visitors)  and  Beau- 
sijour,  both  beautifully  situated  on  the  Rhine  Promenade. 

Cafes.  "Trinkhalle  (PI.  C,  5)  on  the  Rhine  Promenade,  military  music 
on  Thursday  afternoons;  Rhein- Pavilion ,  on  the  Rhine  Wharf,  in  sum- 
mer only.  Hubalek,  opposite  the  post-office  (PI.  C,  3) ;  Hermann,  Oerichts- 
8tr.  6.  Beer  in  all.  —  Wine.  Tillmann,  Unter'm  Stern,  at  the  N.  end  of  the 
Kornpfort-8tr.  (PI.  C,  3),  with  restaurant,  with  a  view  of  the  Moselle ;  Scheid, 
in  the  Fruchtmarkt;  Casino  (PI.  4),  introduction  by  a  member.  —  Beer. 
Dottier,  G-emusegasse ;  Kratz,  Miinz-Platz;  Moos,  near  the  Mainzer  Thor. 
—  Confectioners.    Schaaf,  Firmung-Str. ;  Laibacher,  Clemens-Str. 

Baths  in  the  Rhine  (PI.  E,  2),  attached  to  the  bridge-of-boats  (bath 
50  pf.).  8wimming-bath  (PI.  E,  1,2)  in  the  Rhine,  a  little  below  the  bridge; 
single  bath  50  pf.  —  Warm  at  Fischer"  s,  Lohr-Str.  85,  near  the  station,  and 
at  Hensler's,  Castorhof. 

Post  Office  (PI.  30;  C,  3),  at  the  corner  of  the  Clemens-Platz. 

Telegraph  Office,  Schloss-Str.  13. 

Carriages.  (Stands  on  the  Rhine,  near  the  bridge-of-boats ;  in  the  8chloss- 
Rondell,  PI.  C,  3,  4 ;  and  at  the  stations.)  One-horse :  per  drive  within  the 
town,  to  Lutzel-Coblenz  (PI.  B,  1),  to  the  Rondel  on  the  Mainzer 
Chaussee  (PI.  C,  6) ,  or  to  the  foot  of  the  Karthause  (PL  A ,  5) ,  or  to  or 
from  the  Coblenz  stations,  1-2  pers.  75,  3-4  pers.  1  m. ;  luggage,  10  pf.  for 
each  heavy  package ;  to  Capellen  (Stolzenfels),  or  Niederlahnstein,  or  Vallen- 
dar  3  m.,  there  and  back  with  stay  of  2  hrs.  5  m.;  to  Pfaffendorf  or  the 
Laubbach  ll/t  m.,  there  and  back  with  stay  of  2  hrs.,  31/*  m- i  Schone  Aussieht 
on  the  Karthause  (p.  94)  3  m.,  there  and  back,  with  stay  of  2  hrs.,  41/*  m. ; 
fort  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  or  to  the  Asterstein,  or  to  Arenberg  4  m.,  and  back 
with  2  hrs.  stay,  5  m.;  Horchheim  2Ys  or  81/2  m. ;  by  time,  for  the  1st  hr. 
2l/s  m.,  each  additional  »/«  br.  1  m.  25  pf.  —  Two-horse  carriages  about  one- 
half  more.  Bridge-toll  (45-00  pf.)  saved  by  taking  a  carriage  in  Ehren- 
breitstein for  excursions  on  the  right  bank.  Double  fares  from  10  p.m. 
to  6  a.m.  —  Carriages  from  the  hotels  are  dearer. 

Porterage  of  luggage  from  the  steamboat  to  the  hotel,  each  article  40  pf. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  English  Chapel  in  the  Palace. 

Principal  Attractions.  Walk  from  the  Holzthor  through  the  Rhine 
Promenade  to  the  (1  M.)  Rondell,  return  as  far  as  the  Schenkendorf 
monument,  follow  the  glacis  to  the  left  as  far  as  the  Mainzer  Thor,  enter 
by  this  gate,  cross  the  Railway  Bridge,  ascend  the  Asterstein  (p.  97),  or 
Ehrenbreitstein  (p.  96),  and  finally  return  by  the  bridge-of-boats,  a  walk 
of  8-8V*  hrs.  in  all.  —  To  obtain  a  glimpse  at  the  town  itself:  walk  from 
the  steamboat-pier  down  the  Rhine  to  the  confluence  of  the  Moselle,  turn 


St.  Castor.  COBLENZ.  16.  Routt.     91 

to  the  left,  enter  the  pate  and  visit  St.  Castor's  Church  (see  below),  then, 
if  time  permit,  proceed  to  the  Moselle  Bridge  (p.  92). 

Coblero,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Moselle  and  Rhine,  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia  and  the  Beat  of  the  civil 
and  military  authorities.  Pop.  30,567;  garrison  5000,  Ehrenbreit- 
stein  not  included  (see  p.  96).  Coblenz  carries  on  an  Important 
wine-trade  and  manufactures  large  quantities  of  champagne,  most 
of  which  is  exported  to  England  and  the  British  Colonies.  The 
town  is  surrounded  with  a  wall,  and  the  neighbouring  heights  of 
Ehrenbreitstein,  the  Asterstein,  Karthause,  and  Petersberg  are  all 
strongly  fortified  with  outworks.  Few  towns  on  the  Rhine  can  vie 
with  Coblenz  in  beauty  of  situation ,  standing  as  it  does  at  the 
junction  of  two  of  the  most  picturesque  rivers  in  Europe,  and  com- 
manding charming  views  in  every  direction. 

No  ancient  writers  mention  a  Roman  town  on  the  site  of  the  present 
Coblenz,  and  no  remains  have  been  found  to  give  colour  to  such  a  belief. 
It  appears  to  have  been  originally  only  a  posting-station  ('Ad  Confluentes') 
on  the  great  Roman  road,  and  was  not  made  a  'castrum',  or  fortress,  till 
the  5th  century.  In  1864,  when  the  Moselle  was  unusually  low,  numerous 
remains  of  a  Roman  bridge-of-piles  were  discovered  below  the  Moselle 
bridge,  probably  dating  from  the  5th  century. 

Down  to  the  establishment  of  the  Rhenish  Towns'  Confederation, 
Coblenz  was  a  place  of  little  importance.  In  the  Thirty  Tears'  War  it 
was  alternately  besieged  and  garrisoned  by  Swedish,  French,  and  Impe- 
rial troops.  In  1688,  although  the  town  was  nearly  destroyed  by  the 
French  cannonade,  Marshal  Boufflers  was  compelled  to  retreat  without 
effecting  an  entry.  On  the  completion  of  the  palace  in  1786  Coblenz 
became  the  residence  of  the  Elector  of  Treves,  but  a  few  years  later 
(1794)  it  was  taken  by  the  French,  who  in  1798  made  it  the  capital  of 
the  Department  of  the  Rhine  and  Moselle.  On  1st  Jan.,  1814,  the  French 
were  compelled  by  the  allies  to  evacuate  the  town,  and  the  following 
year  it  became  Prussian. 

The  side  of  the  town  towards  the  Rhine  consists  of  a  row  of 
large  buildings :  the  palace,  government-offices,  hotels,  and  dwel- 
ling-houses, and  lastly  the  venerable  church  of  St.  Castor  and  the 
simple  Gothic  Teutonic  Lodge  (PL  7),  now  a  magazine,  at  the  angle 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle. 

The 'Church  of  St.  Castor  (PI.  18 ;  D,  1, 2),  founded  in  836,  dates 
in  its  present  form  chiefly  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent. ,  and  was 
consecrated  in  1208.  It  is  a  Romanesque  basilica  with  four  towers, 
terminating  in  a  semicircular  apse  adorned  with  a  gallery  of  small 
columns,  and  presents  a  picturesque  appearance  from  the  Rhine ; 
but  from  the  quay  itself  it  is  concealed  by  the  ugly  town-wall.  The 
W.  portal  was  restored  in  1862  in  the  style  of  the  rest  of  the  building. 

The  *  Interior  (closed  in  the  middle  of  the  day),  62  yds.  long  and 
23  yds.  wide,  is  roofed  with  rich  Gothic  groined  vaulting,  which  was 
substituted  in  1498  for  the  originally  flat  ceiling.  The  Choir  is  richly 
decorated  with  gilding  and  paintings.  On  the  arch  is  the  Coronation  of 
Mary;  in  the  apse  the  Trinity  with  saints,  both  by  Settega$t  (1848);  to 
the  right  the  Adoration  of  the  Child  by  Gassen  (1871).  Under  this  is 
the  Monument  of  Archbishop  Werner  (d.  1418)  of  Treves,  in  a  Gothic  sar- 
cophagus-niche. Opposite  (N.  side)  is  the  much  more  important  *  Monu- 
ment of  Arehb.  Kuno  von  Falkenstein  (d.  1388 ;  see  p.  104),  also  in  a  Gothic 
sarcophagus-niche  with  fresco  (Adoration  of  the  Saviour,  on  the  right 
St.  John  and  St.  Castor,  on   the  left  the  archbishop  kneeling,  Mary,  and 


92     Route  18.  COBLENZ.  Moselle  Bridge. 

Peter),  ascribed  to  the  old  master  Wilhelm  of  Cologne  (p.  25).  The  Tran- 
sept contains  sixteen  early  German  oil-paintings,  executed  about  1500. 
-The  N.  Aisle,  with  frescoes  by  Kindler,  contains  a  modern  Monument  of 
St.  Riza,  who  according  to  tradition  was  a  daughter  of  Louis  the  Pious. 

To  the  W.  of  the  church  stands  the  Castor-Brnnnen  (PI.  6  ; 
D,  1),  erected  by  the  last  French  prefect  in  commemoration  of  the 
French  campaign  against  Russia,  with  the  inscription :  'An  1812. 
Memorable  par  la  campagne  eontre  les  Busses.  Sous  U  prifecturat 
de  Jules  Doazari.  The  Russian  general  St.  Priest,  who  entered  the 
town  on  1st  Jan. ,  1814,  with  exquisite  irony  added  the  words  : 
1  Vu  et  approuve  par  nous  Commandant  Busse  de  laville  de  Coblence. 
Lei.  jan.  1814\ 

Adjacent  to  the  Castorplatz  is  the  General-Commando  (PI.  10}, 
formerly  the  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Leyen.  During  the  French  regime 
it  was  modernised. 

A  few  paces  to  the  N.  is  the  Schwanenthor  (PI.  C,  D,  1),  passing 
through  which  we  enter  the  narrow  Mosblstrassb,  bounded  by  the 
town-wall  on  one  side  and  by  the  mean-looking  houses  of  the  old 
town  on  the  other.  This  leads  us  past  the  crane  to  the  quay  of  the 
Moselle,  whence  a  view  of  the  bridge  is  obtained.  To  the  left  is  the 
handsome  jutting  story  of  the  Kaufhaus  (see  p.  93).  We  now  pass 
under  the  bridge,  and  reach  the  Wolfsthor  on  the  left.  Enter- 
ing the  town  by  this  gate,  and  passing  (r.)  the  MeUernicher  Hof, 
the  birthplace  of  Prince  Metternich,  the  Austrian  Minister  (b.  1773, 
d.  1859),  we  reach  the  "Moselle  Bridge  with  its  14  arches,  erected 
by  Elector  Baldwin  about  1344,  restored  in  1440  (tower  added  in 
1832),  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  Ehrenbreitstein.  Over  it  are 
conveyed  the  pipes  which  supply  the  town  with  water  from  the 
heights  of  Metternich,  2*/2  M.  distant.  A  little  farther  up  the  river 
is  the  Railway  Bridge, 

As  the  town  is  re-entered ,  the  ancient  Burg  (PI.  3 ;  B,  2) ,  or 
Arehiepiseopal  Palace ,  erected  in  1276 ,  stands  on  the  left.  The 
handsome  staircase  of  the  tower  next  the  town  dates  from  1599.  It 
was  a  favourite  residence  of  Elector  Lothar  of  Metternich,  who  here 
founded  the  Roman  Catholic  League  in  1609,  and  is  now  a  manu- 
factory of  japanned  tin-wares. 

The  other  ehurohes  are  uninteresting.  The  Liebfrauenkirche 
(Church  of  Our  Lady ,  PI.  22)  was  founded  in  the  13th  cent. ,  but 
not  completed  till  1431,  and  was  restored  in  1853.  Gothic  choir  of 
1405,  with  modern  stained  glass.  Handsome  modern  Gothic  high- 
altar.  Ancient  tombstones  in  the  W.  vestibule.  —  The  Carmeliten- 
kirche  (PI.  21 ;  D,  2),  erected  in  1673,  and  thoroughly  restored  in 
1853,  is  fitted  up  as  a  garrison-church.  The  choir  contains  a  large 
picture  by  Anschuez,  representing  the  Virgin  with  SS.  Maurice, 
George,  Barbara,  and  Joseph,  the  patron-saints  of  infantry,  cavalry, 
artillery,  and  engineers.  —  The  (Prot.)  Florinskirehe  (PI.  19)  was 
built  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th  cent.,  but  has  been  frequently 
altered  ;  the  choir  was  added  after  1356. 


Palace.  COBLENZ.  16.  Route.     93 

In  the  Florinsmarkt,  in  the  corner  next  the  Florinskirche,  it 
the  Kanfhau  (Merchants'  Hall,  PI.  16),  with  its  octagonal  corner- 
turrets  and  elegant  jutting  story  (towards  the  Moselle,  p.  92),  erected 
in  1479  as  a  town-hall,  and  used  as  snch  till  1805.  It  was  seriously 
injured  during  the  siege  of  1688,  and  restored  in  a  tasteless  fashion. 
A  bearded  figure  below  the  clock ,  the  cognisance  of  the  town  of 
Coblenz,  rolls  its  eyes  at  every  stroke  of  the  pendulum,  and  opens 
its  mouth  at  every  full  hour.  Several  old  houses  with  oriel- win- 
dows, such  as  the  lVier  Th  urine'  at  the  corner  of  the  Lohr-Straste 
and  the  Alte  Graben  (PI.  B,2),  are  also  interesting. 

A  striking  contrast  to  the  narrow  and  winding  streets  of  the 
quarter  containing  the  buildings  above  described  is  afforded  by  the 
spacious  and  regular  Nbusta.l»t,  the  S.  part  of  the  town,  with  its 
large  open  squares  planted  with  lime  trees,  the  whole  of  which  has 
sprung  up  since  the  last  quarter  of  the  18th  century. 

The  centre  of  the  Clbmbns-Platz  (PI.  C,  3)  is  embellished  by 
the  Clemensbrunnen,  a  fountain-obelisk  65  ft.  in  height,  fed  by 
the  water-pipes  above  mentioned.  —  Opposite  is  the  Theatre  (PI. 
37),  built  at  the  end  of  last  century,  and  containing  a  small  Picture 
Gallery  (Sun.  11-1).  —  The  road  to  the  £.,  passing  the  Festungs- 
baukof  (PI.  9),  leads  to  the  Holzthor  (p.  94).  Adjacent  are  the 
Regierunysaebaude  (PI.  32),  or  government-offices,  and  the  new 
Courts  of  Justice  (PI.  8;  Dicasterialgebaude),  two  large  buildings  in 
the  German  Renaissance  style. 

The  Palace  (PI.  34;  D,  4),  a  large  building  of  no  architectural 
merit,  with  a  lofty  Ionic  portico,  was  erected  by  Clemens  Wenceslaus 
(p.  162),  last  Elector  of  Treves,  in  1778-86,  and  occupied  by  him 
till  1794.  The  French  converted  it  into  a  hospital  and  a  barrack.  It 
was  afterwards  restored  by  the  Prussian  government,  and  fitted  up  as 
a  palace  in  1845.  The  N.  wing  (on  the  left  as  the  visitor  approaches) 
contains  the  Palace  Chapel,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  used  as  the 
Protestant  church  of  the  garrison.  Over  the  altar  is  a  large  copy  of 
Leonardo  da  Vinci's  'Last  Supper'.  Adjoining  it  is  the  English  Chapel, 
which  was  liberally  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  English  residents 
by  the  Princess  of  Prussia,  now  the  Empress  of  Germany  (chaplain 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions).  The  upper  apartments,  to 
which  a  broad  staircase  ascends,  are  occupied  in  summer  by  the  Em- 
press (visitors  ring  for  the  castellan  in  the  lower  corridor  of  the  N. 
wing,  near  the  entrance  to  the  chapel ;  fee  1  m.,  more  for  a  party). 

The  Electoral  Hall  contains  portraits  of  the  last  Electors  of 
Treves,  from  Richard  v.  Greiffenklau  (1511-31)  to  Clemens  Wenceslaus 
(1768-1802);  an  album  with  portraits  of  distinguished  persons  connected 
with  the  town  of  Coblenz  from  1792  to  1866,  Ac. ;  and  the  writing-table  of 
Frederick  the  Great.  In  the  large  Fbstsaal  are  busts  of  the  royal1  fam- 
ily ;  that  of  the  empress  was  modelled  by  the  crown-princess  Victoria.  — 
Several  of  the  other  apartments  contain  specimens  of  work  done  by 
the  empress,  her  daughter  the  grand-duchess  of  Baden,  and  her  daughter- 
in-law  the  crown-princess ;  also  portraits  of  the  royal  family,  Gobelins 
tapestry  presented  by  Louis  XVI.  to  Frederick  the  Great,  several  modern 
pictures  by  Deschwanden,  Settegast,  Ac,  and  gifts  presented  by  the  Rhenish 


94     Route  16.  COBLENZ.  Railway  Bridges. 

towns  on  the  occasion  (1864)  of  the  'silver  wedding-day'  (25th)  of  the  pre- 
sent emperor.  All  these  rooms  afford  fine  views  of  the  Rhine,  the  hills  of 
Pfaffendorf,  and  Ehrenbreitstein. 

The  handsome  S.  gates,  the  Mainzer-Thor  (PI.  C,  4)  and  Lbhr- 
Thor  (PI.  A,  B,  3) ,  serve  as  barracks.  The  glacis  to  the  left,  out- 
side the  Mainzer  Thor,  leads  in  5  min.  to  the  Rhine  Promenade 
(see  below).  Near  the  Mainzer  Thor,  within  the  town,  is  the  approach 
to  the  *Rhenish  Railway  Bridge  (PI.  D,  E,  4,5)  over  the  Rhine, 
built  in  1862-64,  an  elegant  structure  of  three  iron  arches,  each  with 
a  span  of  106  yds. ,  resting  on  massive  stone  buttresses ,  and  com- 
manding a  beautiful  view.  A  walk  across  this  bridge  and  back  by 
the  bridge-of-boats  is  strongly  recommended;  and  the  Asters te in 
may  also  be  ascended  (p.  97). 

At  the  Holz-  Thor  (PI.  D,  3)  begins  the  beautiful  *  Rhine  Pro- 
menade (PI.  C,  5,  6),  extending  along  the  river  nearly  as  far  as 
the  Laubbach  (see  below).  These  grounds  (Rhein-Anlagen),  which 
were  tastefully  laid  out  under  the  auspices  of  the  Empress  Augusta, 
should  be  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  charming  views  they  command. 
To  the  left,  above  the  railway-bridge,  at  the  end  of  the  glacis  (*/4  M. 
from  the  Mainzer  Thor,  see  above),  rises  a  lofty  Column,  with  an 
inscription  commemorating  the  construction  of  the  bridge.  On  the 
right  is  a  bust  of  the  poet  Max  von  Schenkendorf  (PI.  33  j  D,  4), 
who  died  at  Coblenz  in  1817.  Farther  from  the  town  a  number  of 
villas  and  summer-houses  extend  along  the  bank  of  the  river. 
Among  them  is  a  cafe*  called  the  TrinkhalU  (PI.  C,  5 ;  p.  90).  The 
grounds  terminate  opposite  the  island  of  Oberwerth  (p.  98),  iy2  M. 
from  the  Holz  thor,  at  the  point  where  the  Berlin  and  Metz  railway 
crosses  the  arm  of  the  river  between  the  island  and  the  mainland 
by  an  embankment. 

The  *Railway  Bridge  ('Staatsbahn-Brucke),  which  spans  the 
wider  arm  of  the  river,  between  Oberwerth  and  the  E.  bank,  was 
constructed  by  Altenloh  in  1877-79,  and  is  1300  ft.  long.  It  con- 
sists of  three  brick  arches,  each  80  ft.  in  span,  and  of  two  light  and 
elegant  iron  arches,  each  with  a  span  of  350  ft.  Except  at  night  and 
during  very  foggy  or  stormy  weather  it  is  open  to  pedestrians,  who 
enjoy  from  it  an  admirable  "View  in  all  directions.  The  bridge 
reaches  the  E.  bank  at  the  lower  end  of  Horchheim  (p.  98),  */2  M- 
below  the  station  of  the  Right  Rhenish  railway  at  the  upper  end 
(p.  191),  and  iy2  M.  above  the  bridge-of-boats  at  Coblenz. 

Beyond  the  embankment  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Promenade  (see  above) 
a  pleasant  path  leads  along  the  river  to  the  (*/«  M.)  mouth  of  a  small 
valley,  in  which  lies  the  hydropathic  establishment  of  Laubbach  (now  clos- 
ed), 2  M.  from  the  Mainzer  Thor  by  the  high-road  (carr.,  seep.  90).  —  An- 
other footpath,  turning  to  the  left  at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  and 
again  to  the  left  beyond  the  buildings,  leads  to  the  (74  hr.)  *Rittersturs, 
a  height  surmounted  by  a  summer-house  and  commanding  a  beautiful  view 
of  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein  (refreshments).  Beyond  the  hut  the  path 
is  continued  till  it  joins  the  path  ascending  to  the  Kuhkopf  from  the  valley 
above  the  hydropathic  establishment  (see  below). 

The  fortifications  on  the  Karthauae  (528  ft.),  a  lofty  plateau, 


Environs.  COBLENZ.  16.  Route.     95 

lying  between  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle,  consist  of  Fort  Alexander 
on  the  summit,  and  lower  down  Fort  Congtaniine  (PI.  A,  6),  which 
occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  Carthusian  monastery.  The  road  to 
it  passes  the  StaaUbahnhof  (p.  90)  and  crosses  the  railway  by  a 
viaduct;  it  then  ascends  the  hill  between  the  two  forts  and  leads  to 
the  Hunsrucken.  Charming  view  about  half-way  up j  in  the  fore- 
ground the  rich  plain  of  the  Rhine  and  the  island  of  Oberwerth ; 
in  the  background  a  semicircle  of  picturesque  hills  with  the  castles 
of  Stolzenfels  and  Lahneck.  This  plateau,  l'/s  M.  from  Coblenz, 
employed  as  a  military  drilling  ground,  was  occupied  by  an  encamp- 
ment of  10,000  French  prisoners  of  war  in  1870-71. 

On  the  brink  of  the  Karthause  facing  the  Moselle,  150  paces  8. 
of  the  military  rifle -practice  ground,  is  a  small  enclosed  plat- 
form with  seats  ('Sch&neAussich?),  which  affords  a  striking  glimpse 
of  the  valley  of  the  Moselle.  The  road  to  the  N.  along  the  brow 
of  the  hill,  skirting  the  burial-place  of  the  French  prisoners  who 
died  in  1870-71,  leads  to  a  broad  road  planted  with  poplars,  which, 
continuing  nearly  on  the  same  level ,  and  affording  a  succession  of 
fine  views,  skirts  Fort  Alexander,  passes  above  the  picturesque 
Cemetery  (PI.  A,  5),  where  repose  the  remains  of  Max  v.  Schenken- 
dorf(jf.  94),  and  joins  the  main  road  near  Fort  Constantino.  This 
entire  round  is  4^2  M.  in  length.  —  The  road  descending  to  the  left, 
74  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Schone  Ausaicht,  leads  to  Moselweis  (p.  170). 
The  'Xuhkopf  (1290  ft.  above  the  sea-level),  the  pine-clad  N.  outpoat 
of  the  range  of  hills  rising  to  the  S.  of  the  Karthause,  commands  an  im- 
posing and  peculiar  view,  embracing  the  Rhine  and  Moselle,  the  volcanic 
peaks  of  the  Vorder-Eifel  (1.),  and  the  hills  enclosing  the  valley  of  the 
Rhine.  The  Kiihkopf  is  reached  by  several  different  routes.  From  the 
Karthause  the  broad  Hunsrucken  road  ascends  past  a  forester's  house,  to 
(i'/2  M.)  a  tree  with  a  bench  round  it,  where  a  finger-post  indicates  the 
way  to  the  (20  min.)  hut  on  the  summit.  About  */«  M.  beyond  the  sign- 
post a  carriage-road  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Hunsrucken  road, 
and  leads  to  the  top  in  */*  hr.  more.  —  The  shortest  route  leads  by  the 
Ritierstvrz  (p.  94),  and  can  scarcely  be  missed;  it  ascends  to  the  sign- 
post above  mentioned  in  */<  hr.  —  The  most  beautiful  return-route  for 
pedestrians  descends  to  Capellen,  affording  fine  views  of  the  Rhine  and  the 
Lahn,  and  passes  the  Auguttahd/u  and  StolzenfeU  (1  hr.). 

Beyond  the  Moselle  Bridge  rises  the  Petersberg,  a  slight  emi- 
nence crowned  by  Fort  Franz.  At  the  E.  base  of  the  fort,  y2  M. 
from  the  Moselle  bridge  (see  Map  of  Environs),  rises  a  blunted 
pyramid  of  lava  to  the  memory  of  the  French  general  Marceau,  who 
fell  at  Altenkirchen  in  1796,  with  a  long  French  inscription  ('soldat 
h  16  ana,  giniral  a  22  ami').  His  monument  and  remains  were 
originally  on  the  hill,  but  on  the  construction  of  the  fortiiioations 
by  Fred.  William  III.  were  removed  to  their  present  site.  Byron's 
well-known  lines  — 

'By  Coblenz,  on  a  gentle  rise  of  ground, 

There  is  a  small  and  simple  pyramid, 

Crowning  the  summit  of  the  verdant  mound; 

Beneath  its  base  are  hero's  ashes  hid. 

Our  enemy,  —  but  let  not  that  forbid 

Honour  to  MarceauT  Ac. 


96     Route  16.  EHRENBREITSTEIN. 

refer  to  the  monument  in  its  original  position.  The  French  sol- 
diers who  died  in  the  prisoners'  camp  on  the  Petersberg  in  1870-71 
are  interred  on  the  slopes  behind  the  monument. 

Ehrenbreitstein  and  A»terstein, 

Cards  of  admission  to  Ehrenbreitstein  (50  pf.  each,  proceeds  destined 
for  charitable  purposes)  may  be  procured  in  summer  (1st  Ap.  -  31st  Oct) 
at  the  office  of  the  second  commandant  (formerly  the  Court  of  Law,  PI.  40, 
E  2 ;  entrance  in  the  Hof-8tr.).  Visitors  are  received  at  the  top  and  con- 
ducted over  the  fortress  by  a  sergeant  (60  pf.  to  1  m).  Two  hours  suffice 
for  the  walk  from  Coblenz  to  the  summit  and  back. 

View  from  the  Asterstein  (p.  97)  similar  to  that  from  Ehrenbreitstein. 
No  permission  necessary. 

ABridge-of-Boat8(Pl.  D,E,2),  about  400yds.  in  length,  connects 
Coblenz  with  Thai  Ehrenbreitstein  (Hdtel  zum  Konig  vonPreusnn), 
a  small  town  with  3000  inhab.,  prettily  situated  in  a  valley  between 
the  heights  crowned  with  the  fortresses  of  Ehrenbreitstein  and  Aster- 
stein. Along  the  river  runs  the  unsightly  embankment  of  the  Right 
Rhenish  Railway  (to  Vallendar,  Bendorf,  etc. ;  see  pp.  69,  71). 

The  road  to  the  fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  passes  the  office  oi 
the  sub  -  commandant  (PI.  38;  see  above),  the  railway  -  station 
(PI.  E,  2),  and  a  handsome  Renaissance  building  (PI.  39),  erected 
by  the  Electors  in  1747  as  a  residence  for  the  governors,  now 
used  as  a  provision-magazine.  Beyond  the  next  gate  the  road  di- 
verges to  the  right  and  ascends  the  hill  in  windings.  The  steps 
which  ascend  the  rock  direct  from  the  Rhine,  575  in  number,  are 
now  disused. 

Opposite  the  influx  of  the  Moselle  rises  the  majestic  fortress  of 
^Ehrenbreitstein,  sometimes  called  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine,  sit- 
uated on  a  precipitous  rock,  387  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  and  573  ft. 
above  the  sea,  inaccessible  on  three  sides,  and  connected  with  the 
neighbouring  heights  on  the  N.  side  only.  The  massive  fortifica- 
tions, constructed  in  1816-26  under  the  superintendence  of  General 
v.  Aster,  were  long  considered  a  marvel  of  military  engineering.  The 
*  View  from  the  top  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Rhine.  It  embraces 
the  fertile  valley  of  the  Rhine  from  Stolzenfels  to  Andernach,  and 
the  numerous  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Maifeld  and  the  Eifel  (p.  80). 
Far  below  are  the  Rhine  and  Moselle,  and  between  them  the  trian- 
gular town  of  Coblenz. 

Whether  this  important  military  point  was  fortified  by  the  Romans  is 
uncertain.  The  Castle  of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  said  to  have  been  presented 
by  the  Frankish  king  Dagobert  to  the  archbishops  of  Treves  in  636,  and 
their  possession  was  confirmed  by  Emp.  Henry  II.  in  1018.  As  it  afforded 
them  an  excellent  asylum  in  troublous  times,  they  repeatedly  strengthened 
and  extended  it,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  12th  cent,  their  comman- 
dant added  the  Jlillinstein,  or  Hel/enstein,  a  castle  on  the  lower  S.  pro- 
jection of  the  rock,  which  last  name  exists  down  to  the  present  day. 

In  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th  centuries  the  castle  was  gradually  converted 
into  an  extensive  and  powerful  stronghold-,  and  so  important  was  it  con- 
sidered, that  its  commandant  had  to  swear  allegiance  to  the  emperor  as 
well  as  to  the  princes  of  the  country.  The  fortress  has  only  thrice  suc- 
cumbed to  an  enemy.    On  the  first  of  these  occasions  it  fell  into  the 


ASTERSTEIN.  16.  Route     97 

hand*  of  the  French  in  1031  through  the  treachery  of  Elector  Philip  Chris- 
topher, In  1687  the  Imperial  general  Johann  von  Werth  invented  it  with 
his  troops,  and  the  garrison  was  forced  to  capitulate  through  hunger. 
During  the  war  of  the  French  Revolution,  Ehrenbreitstein  was  unsuccess- 
fully besieged  four  times,  but  on  27th  Jan.  1799  it  was  surrendered  by  the  gal- 
lant Col.  Faber  after  all  the  provisions  had  been  exhausted.  In  consequence 
of  the  Peace  of  Lune*ville  the  fortifications  were  dismantled.  In  accordance 
with  the  provisions  of  the  second  Peace  of  Paris,  15  million  fr.  were 
paid  by  the  French  to  Prussia  for  the  restoration  of  the  works,  but  the 
sum  expended  on  them  has  amounted  to  upwards  of  24  million  marks 
(l,200,OO0Q. 

♦Fort  Asteratein,  situated  on  the  Pf 'offender fer  Hoke,  to  the  S. 
of  Ehrenbreitotein ,  completes  the  fortifications  of  this  bank  of  the 
Rhine.  A  projecting  terrace  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  fort  bears  an 
Obelisk  (PI.  F,  4;  fine  view)  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  of  the 
8th  army-corps  who  fell  in  the  campaign  of  1866.  The  Loui$enthurm 
on  the  W.  slope  of  the  hill  derives  its  name  from  the  Grand-Duchess 
Louisa  of  Baden ,  daughter  of  the  Emperor  of  Germany ,  who  spent 
some  of  her  early  years  at  Coblenz.  —  The  hill  on  which  the  obe- 
lisk stands  may  be  reached  in  20  min.  from  the  bridge-of-boats. 
After  crossing  the  latter  we  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  the 
end  of  the  Kiroh-Strasse  (see  PI.  F,  2),  and  follow  the  road  to  the 
right.  Where  the  latter  turns  to  the  left,  a  shorter  route  ascends 
by  the  steps  to  the  right,  crosses  the  road  which  leads  up  from  the 
'Promenade'  (PI.  F,  3),  and  again  ascends  by  steps.  Half-way  up, 
the  Cafi  Rheinlust,  and  beyond  it  the  Louisenthurm  (see  above)  are 
passed.  We  then  follow  the  road  to  the  summit. 

The  following  route  is  recommended  to  the  traveller  approaching 
from  the  railway -bridge.  After  crossing  the  bridge  turn  to  the  right, 
following  the  road  to  Pfafiendorf,  and  here  take  the  road  to  the  left, 
past  the  church,  ascend  the  course  of  the  brook,  pass  to  the  left  under 
the  railway,  and  gradually  ascend  the  hill.  On  the  height  ('/<  hr.  from 
Pfafiendorf  church)  this  road  is  quitted  by  a  new  road  intersecting  the  for- 
tifications of  the  G]ockenberg  to  the  left  (see  Plan),  and  afterwards  skirt- 
ing the  brow  of  the  hill  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Coblenz.  in 
12  min.  more  the  Obelisk  (see  above)  is  reached. 

The  post-road  which  ascends  the  valley  at  the  back  of  the  town  of 
Ehrenbreitstein  leads  by  Niederberg  to  (2  M.)  Arenberg  (Zum  Rothen  Bahn), 
a  village  with  a  large  new  pilgrimage-church,  the  stations  connected  with 
which  command  a  beautiful  view.  The  road  diverging  to  the  right  beyond 
Arenberg  passes  a  forester's  house  and  leads  to  (4Va  M.)  Ems  (p.  191). 

Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein  were  visited  in  1774  by  Goethe,  who 
resided  in  the  last  house  in  Ehrenbreitstein  on  the  left  before  entering  the 
fortress ,  at  that  time  the  residence  of  the  Chancellor  de  la  Roche.  The 
poet  describes  his  visit  in  the  3rd  part  of  his  'Fiction  and  Truth." 

17.  The  Rhine  from  Coblenz  to  BTayence, 

Steamboat  in  7V«  (down  in  4ty4)  hrs.  \  piers  at  Oberlahnstein,  Boppard, 
St.  Qoar,  Bin  gen,  Biidesheim,  Eltville,  and  Biebrich;  small-boat  stations 
Capellen,  Spay,  Camp,  Hirzenach,  8t.  Goarshausen,  Oberwesel,  Caub,  Bach- 
arach,  Lorch,  Hiederheimbach,  Geisenheim,  Oestrich,  and  Walluf.  An 
omnibus  runs  from  Biebrich  to  Wiesbaden  in  connection  with  every  boat 
in  l/%  hr.,  fare  1  m.  —  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence  both  banks  of  the  river 
are  Prussian. 

Distances:  Coblenz  to  Capellen  4,  Bhense  2,  Niederspay  (opposite 
Braubach)  1*/*,  Boppard  4Y»,  Salzig  3,  Hirzenach  2»/4,  St.  Goar  3»/4,  Ober- 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  7 


98     Route  17.  CAPELLEN.  From  Coblenz 


wesel  51/*,  Caub  3,  Bacharach  l»/j,  Rheindiebach  l»/2,  Lorch  (Niederheim- 
bach)  ty4,  Bheinstein  3ty4,  Bingen  3,  Geisenheim  3,  Oestrich  3,  Eltville  4, 
Walluf  3,  Biebrich  2,  Mayence  4,  total  distance  58  M.  —  Railway  on 
the  Left  Bank  see  R.  19 ;  on  the  Right  Bank  by  Oberlahnstein  and  Rudesheim 
to  Wiesbaden  in  2»/4-3V*  l"*-,  see  E.  30. 

Beyond  the  bridge-of-boats  the  steamer  passes  the  palace  on  the 
right,  and  then  passes  under  the  Rhenish  Railway  Bridge.  On  the 
right  extend  the  beautiful  promenades  of  the  W.  hank ,  opposite 
which  is  the  picturesque  village  of  Ffaffendorf  (Thomm),  with  its 
slender  church-spire. 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  lies  the  island  of  Oberwerth, 
which  is  connected  with  the  W.  bank  by  an  embankment  and  with 
the  E.  by  the  handsome  Railway  Bridge  mentioned  at  p.  94,  below 
which  the  steamer  passes.  The  buildings  on  the  island,  now  pri- 
vate property,  belonged  to  a  nunnery  suppressed  by  the  French  in 
1788.  Beautiful  retrospect  as  the  vessel  passes  the  upper  end  of 
the  island. 

The  vineyards  of  (X.^Evrchheim  (Holler)  produce  good  red  wine; 
the  plain  between  this  village  and  the  mouth  of  the  Lahn  is  remark- 
ably fertile.  (1.)  Hiederlahnstein  {Hermann,  Bender,  at  the  sta- 
tion ;  Bungartz,  Noll,  Doucque,  well  spoken  of,  all  with  gardens,  the 
last  above  the  Lahn  bridge ),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn,  is  the 
junction  of  the  Railway  of  the  Right  Bank,  the  line  to  Coblenz,.  and 
the  Lahn  railway  (RR.  20,  27).  Below  it,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Lahn,  stands  the  solitary  late-Romanesque  Church  of  St.  John,  par- 
tially destroyed  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  but  rescued  from  to- 
tal ruin  in  1857.  The  village  is  said  once  to  have  extended  as  far 
as  this  point,  when  this  venerable  building  was  its  parish-church. 
The  Lahn  is  crossed  near  its  mouth  by  an  unsightly  railway-bridge, 
and  by  another  for  the  traffic  of  the  road. 

r.  Capellen  (^Stolzenfels,  *BeUevue,  both  with  gardens  j  Fey ; 
Mailer's  Restaurant ;  carriages  to  Coblenz,  see  p.  90 ;  boat  to  Cob- 
lenz 3  m. ;  donkey  to  Stolzenfels  80  pf.,  there  and  back  1  m. 
20  pf. ;  steamer  to  Oberlahnstein  every  hour,  20  or  10  pf.),  a  vil- 
lage consisting  of  a  single  row  of  houses  facing  the  railway-em- 
bankment and  the  river,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  wooded  hill  which 
r  bears  the  royal  chateau  of  Stolzenfels.  The  chateau  is  approached 
"by  a  winding  road  of  easy  ascent  (V4  hr.),  crossing  a  viaduct,  and 
passing"lw6  Rdman  mile-stones.  Beyond  the  Klause  (now  stabling), 
a  drawbridge  is  crossed  and  the  castle  entered. 

The  *Caitlo  of  gfrfrftpfAia  (Sin  ft  above  the  Rhine),  with  a 
pentagonal  tower  110  ft.  high,  was  greatly  strengthened,  if  not  en- 
tirely built,  by  Arnold  von  Isenburg,  Archbishop  of  Treves,  in  1250, 
and  was  frequently  a  residence  of  the  archbishops.  Down  to  1689, 
when  it  was  destroyed  by  the  French,  it  was  garrisoned  by  the  Elec- 
tors of  Treves.  In  1823  the  ruin  was  presented  by  the  town  of 
Coblenz  to  Fred.  William  IV.,  when  crown-prince,  who  caused  it  to 
he  restored  in  accordance  with  the  designs  of  SchinkeL,  Stuler,  and 


to  Mayence.  STOLZENFELS.  17.  Route.     99 

Pershts.   The  chfcteau  is  now  the  property  of  the  Emperor  of  Ger- 
many. 

The  Interior  is  open  daily.  In  rammer  the  number  of  visitors  is 
usually  very  large,  and  the  custodian  performs  his  functions  as  showman 
very  rapidly  (fee  50  pf.,  more  for  a  parly). 

We  first  enter  the  Gothic  Chapel  with  its  two  towers.  It  is  decorated 
with  *  Frescoes  on  a  gold  ground  by  E.  Deger,  representing  the  Crea- 
tion, Fall,  First  Sacrifices,  Ac.  —  On  the  external  wall,  above  the  gar- 
den-hall, is  a  fresco  by  Lasinsky:  the  Emp.  Rupert  and  his  nephew  the 
Count  of  Hohenzollern  visiting  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  at  8tolzenfels, 
20th  Aug. ,  1400.  —  In  the  Winter  Garden  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Sieg- 
fried, by  Hartung.  —  Adjoining  the  entrance  flight  of  steps  is  an  ancient 
sculptured  chimney-piege  with  reliefs,  bearing  the  arms  of  Cologne.  — 
The  walls  oi  we  kleine  Rittkrsaal  are  embellished  with  six  'Frescoes. 
by  Professor  Stilke  of  Dusseldorf ,  illustrative  of  the  principal  attributes 
of  chivalry:  1.  Faith:  Godfrey  de  Bouillon  at  the  Holy  Sepulchre  after 
the  conquest  of  Jerusalem ;  2.  Justice :  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  sitting  in 
judgment  on  the  robber  knights;  3.  Poetry:  Minstrels  accompanying  King 
Philip  of  Swabia  and  his  queen  Irene  on  a  pleasure  excursion  on  the 
Rhine;  4.  Love:  The  Emp.  Frederick  II.  welcoming  his  bride  Isabella  of 
England;  5.  Loyalty:  Hermann  von  Siebeneichen,  sacrificing  his  life  to 
save  the  Emp.  Fred.  Barbarossa ;  6.  Bravery :  The  blind  King  John  of  Bo- 
hemia at  the  battle  of  Cr&y.  —  The  Gbosse  Rittbbsaax  contains  a  valu- 
able collection  of  goblets ,  armour  r  and  weapon*.  —  In  the  Urpsa  Rooms 
a  winged  picture  oT  the  tradition  of  Toggenburg  by  Bayer;  Gutenberg,  at 
three  different  periods,  by  Herbig;  a  copy  of  the  Dombild  of  Cologne 
(p.  30)  by  Beckenkamp;  pictures  on  a  gold  ground  by  HeideXoff,  represent- 
ing the  altar  of  the  order  of  the  swan  at  Ansbach ;  about  60  small  pic- 
tures by  old  masters,  DUrer,  Holbein,  Van  Dyck,  Rembrandt,  and  others,  an 
ancient  Byzantine  cross,  awflqii*  fm«nitng#»|  and  other  curiosities. 

The  **Vibw.  which  is  enjoyed  to  greatest  perfection  from  the 
small  S.W.  tower  (entrance  to  the  right  in  the  court),  is  scarcely 
equalled  by  any  other  on  the  Rhine. 

To  the  S.  rises  the  castle  of  Marksburg,  with  Braiibach  and  Rhens  be- 
low. In  front  of  us  is  the  castle  of  La?meck,  looking  down  on  the  grey 
towers  and  walls  of  Oberlahnttein.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Lahn  is  Nie- 
dtrlahnstein,  and  farther  up  the  Lahn  valley  rises  the  Allerheiligenberg> 
with  its  pilgrimage-chapel.  At  the  confluence  of  the  Lahn  and  Rhine  stands 
the  Romanesque  Church  of  St.  John.  Farther  down  the  Rhine  is  the  is- 
land of  Oberwerth,  which  is  traversed  by  the  new  Railway  Bridge ;  beyond 
it,  the  three  arches  of  the  old  railway  bridge.  In  the  background  the 
fortress  of  llhrenbreitstetn  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  objects ;  oppo- 
site to  it  is  Fort  Constantine,  and  between  them  Coblenz;  farther  distant 
the  heights  of  Vallendar. 

Two  bridle-paths,  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  Stolzenfels  road 
(one  at  the  viaduct  mentioned  at  p.  96  and  the  other  above  the  castle), 
lead  to  the  *Augustah5he ,  a  turf-hut  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of 
Stolzenfels  and  the  Rhine  (there  and  back  174  hr. ;  donkey  2  m.).  . 

1  nw^hr,^  (200  ft.  5  *mt,.l  W,lUr.  *R6tel  Lahneek,  both  *  > 
with  garden  and  view,  also  'pension' ;  *Rhein.  Hof;  Deutsche*  Haus ; 
StadtKoln;  steamboat  hourly  to  Capellen,  20  or  10  pf.),  a  very 
ancient  town  with  about  5000  inhab. ,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
Electors  of  Mayence,  and  mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early  as  890, 
is  surrounded  with  well-preserved  walls,  towers,  and  fosses,  which, 
notwithstanding  the  sad  havoc  committed  by  the  railway,  still  afford 
some  idea  of  the  appearance  of  a  fortified  town  of  the  middle  of  the 
14th  century.  The  handsome  Schloss  Martinsburg  at  the  upper  end 
of  the  town,  containing  an  interesting  court,  once  a  residence  of  the 

7* 


100     Route  17.  K&NIGSSTUHL.  From  Coblenz 

Electors  of  Mayence,  dates  from  1394 ;  the  new  part  was  built  in 
1712.  The  Protestant  Church,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  was  built 
by  Zais  in  1872-75.  Two  engine-works  and  foundries  and  several 
other  manufactories  bear  witness  to  the  rapid  progress  of  Oberlahn- 
stein  since  the  completion  of  the  railways.  It  is  also  a  busy  depot 
of  the  iron-ores  yielded  by  the  mines  on  the  Lahn  (comp.  p.  198}, 
and  possesses  a  large  new  harbour. 

On  a  rocky  eminence  behind  Oberlahnstein  rises  the  picturesque 
castle  of  *Lahneck,  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  1224,  having 
probably  been  built  by  Archbishop  Gerhard  of  Mayence.  Accord- 
ing to  an  unfounded  tradition ,  it  was  once  in  possession  of  the 
Knights  Templar.  The  castle,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French 
in  1688 ,  has  been  recently  restored  with  considerable  taste.  The 
pentagonal  pinnacled  tower  commands  a  charming  view,  for  which 
the  morning  light  is  most  favourable.  Gothic  chapel.  On  seeing  the 
ruin  in  1774  Goethe  composed  his  exquisite  'Geistes  Grass'.  The 
castle  may  be  reached  either  from  Oberlahnstein  (direct  route,  desti- 
tute of  shade),  or  from  the  side  next  the  Lahn,  by  a  path  beginning 
opposite  the  upper  end  of  Niederlahnstein  (p.  98).  The  view  from 
the  adjacent  Mooshiitte  is  even  finer  than  that  from  the  castle. 

About  1^4  M.  above  Capellen,  between  the  high-road  and  the 
Rhine ,  is  the  Konigsstuhl  ('king's  seat'),  partially  concealed  by 
walnut-trees  from  the  steamboat -passenger.  It  was  originally 
erected  in  1376  by  theEmp.  Charles  IV.,  but  at  the  end  of  last 
century  had  fallen  to  decay.  In  1843  it  was  rebuilt,  partly  out 
of  the  old  materials,  by  a  patriotic  society  at  Coblenz.  The  struc- 
ture is  octagonal  in  shape,  somewhat  resembling  a  pulpit,  22  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  18  ft.  in  height.  The  Electors  held  their  meetings 
on  the  stone  seat  on  the  top.  The  situation  was  chosen  from  its 
proximity  to  the  dominions  of  the  four  Rhenish  Electors ,  Braubach 
belonging  to  the  Palatinate,  Rhens  to  Cologne,  Stolzenfels  to  Treves, 
and  Lahnstein  to  Mayence.  Here  many  emperors  were  elected, 
decrees  issued,  and  treaties  concluded.  Near  the  Konigsstuhl  is  the 
Rhenser  Miner atquelle,  a  mineral  spring  rising  in  the  bed  of  the 
Rhine ,  which  was  known  in  the  18th  cent,  and  re-diBcovered  in 
1857 ;  the  water  resembles  that  of  Selters  and  is  used  as  a  table- 
beverage  as  well  as  medicinally. 

On  the  fertile  bank  of  the  Rhine  opposite  the  Konigsstuhl,  a 
small  white  chapel ,  near  the  S.  gate  of  Oberlahnstein ,  is  visible 
among  the  trees,  where,  on  20th  Aug.,  1400,  the  Rhenish  Electors 
deprived  the  Bohemian  king  Wenzel  of  the  imperial  crown.  On  the 
following  day  they  crossed  to  the  Konigsstuhl ,  and  elected  Count 
Palatine  Rupert  in.  emperor  in  his  stead.  Adjacent  is  the  Victoria- 
brunnen,  a  mineral  spring. 

Above  the  Konigsstuhl  (3/4  M.)  lies  the  small  town  of  (r.)Bhens 
{Konigsstuhl,  with  garden),  once  belonging  to  the  Electorate  of  Co- 
logne, and  still  surrounded  by  the  walls  and  fosses  constructed  in 


toMayenee.  BRAUBACH.  17.  RouU.     101 

1370  by  Archbishop  Frederick  HI.  of  Cologne.  A  footpath  to  (1  hr.) 
Boppard  ascends  to  the  right  at  the  way-post,  outside  the  S.  gate 
(comp.  p.  102).  On  the  bank  of  the  river,  1  M.  above  Rhens,  is  a 
cotton-mill  with  a  tall  chimney.  Beyond  it,  surrounded  by  fruit- 
trees,  is  the  small  village  of  (r.)  Brey. 

1.  BTB.ubfLGh(*Rhcini$cherHof,  'pens.'  378-4m. ,»  NassauerHof; 
*  Deutsche*  Haus,  with  beer -garden,  near  the  station,  R.  1  m. 
20  pf.),  an  ancient  town  with  1700  inhab.,  invested  with  munici- 
pal privileges  by  the  Emp.  Rudolph  in  1276,  the  once  picturesque 
appearance  of  which  has  been  marred  by  the  railway.  It  is  com- 
manded by  the  imposing  castle  of  "laarkiburg  (Restaurant),  ori- 
ginally called  the  Braubacher  8chloss,  485  ft.  above  the  river, 
the  only  old  fortress  on  the  Rhine  which  has  escaped  destruction. 
In  1437  Count  Philip  of  Katzenellenbogen  founded  a  chapel  in  the 
castle  and  dedicated  it  to  St.  Mark,  after  whom  the  castle  has  since 
been  named.  It  belonged  to  Hessen-Darmstadt  from  1661  to  1803, 
and  was  then  used  by  the  government  of  Nassau  as  a  state-prison 
down  to  1866.  The  summit  affords  a  pleasing  survey  of  the  grassy 
dales  at  the  back,  and  a  portion  of  the  Rhine.  Two  routes  ascend  to 
the  fortress:  to  the  N.  a  footpath,  shorter  but  steeper  than  the 
other,  beginning  opposite  the  old  church  (25  min.);  to  the  S.  the 
road,  leading  at  nret  to  the  left  through  the  town  in  the  direction 
e!  Nastatten,  then  to  the  right  past  the  ancient  Chapel  of  St.  Martin 
(existing  in  1242),  and  lastly  round  the  £.  side  of  the  hill  (35  min.). 

Tax  Dachsxopf.  In  the  fresh  fgreen  valley  behind  the  town ,  en- 
closed by  beautiful  wooded  hills ,  a  road  gradually  ascends  to  a  (l!/»  M.) 
finger-post,  where  a  road  to  the  left  leads  to  Dachsenhausen.  We,  how- 
ever, take  the  road  to  the  right,  and  at  the  (2  M.)  top  of  the  hill  traverse 
the  pine-wood  to  the  light  in  the  direction  of  the  two  barren  summits, 
the  second  of  which  is  the  higher.  In  V*  hr.  more  we  reach  the  "Dachakopf , 
an  eminence  with  a  trigonometrical  signal  for  surveyors,  commanding  an 
extensive  view  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  a  point  below  Andernach,  the  Eifel, 
the  Taunus,  the  Seven  Mts.,  Ac.  A  good  road  descends  thence  to  (5  M.) 
Camp  (p.  103).  Those  who  are  not  disposed  for  so  long  a  walk  will  be 
rewarded  by  penetrating  about  l1/*  M.  into  the  valley  behind  the  Marks- 
burg.  The  contrast  is  very  striking  when  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  is 
quitted  by  the  narrow  rock-hewn  track  passing  the  chapel  of  St.  Martin, 
parallel  to  the  Rhine,  and  also  leading  to  the  castle. 

To  Ems.  From  Braubach  a  road  leads  over  the  hills  to  the  (71/?  M.) 
Baths  of  Ems  (p.  191),  passing  Goldschmidt's  Foundry  and  (3  M.)  the  Obsr- 
lahruUiner  Fortthau*  (refreshments),  1  M.  from  FrUeht  (p.  105).  Fine  view 
of  Dausenau  and  the  valley  of  the  Lann  in  descending. 

To  Wklmich.  The  first  valley  above  Braubach  contains  the  Dinkholder 
Brunnen  (see  below) ;  the  second  is  traversed  by  a  path  which  ascends  the 
hill,  commanding  a  fine  view ,  and  leads  to  Weltnieh  (ll/t  M.),  passing  the 
village  of  Prath ,  and  emerging  from  the  wild  and  rocky  ravine  at  the 
back  of  Welmich  near  the  'Mouse'  (p.  104). 

Above  Braubach  are  the  (r.)  villages  of  Niederspay  and  Oberspay 
(Rindsfusser),  connected  by  an  avenue  of  walnut-trees.  On  the 
promontory  to  the  right  stands  a  half-ruined  chapel,  the  only  relic 
of  the  village  of  Peter  spay.  The  pleasant  valley  on  the  opposite 
bank  contains  the  Dinkholder  Brunnen,  a  chalybeate  spring  similar 
to  those  at  Schwalbach;  the  bath-house  is  visible  from  the  steamer. 


102      Route  17,  BOPPARD.  From  Coblent 

On  the  wooded  height  above  (1.)  Ostcrspay  (Mullens  Inn)  stands 
the  cfrfoeaii  of  Ltebeneck.  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  on  the  Rhine. 

Fbom  Liebenkck  to  Camp  (p.  103),  the  shortest  route  is  by  a  path 
traversing  the  lofty  table-land  beyond  the  chateau,  and  commanding  a  strik- 
ing view  from  its  S.  margin. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right,-  a  little  above  Osterspay,  stands  the 
Jacobsberger  Hofc  a  farm-house  523  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  whence  a 
cart-road  leads  to  Rhcns,  3  M.  distant,  cutting  off  the  circuit  of 
6  M.  formed  by  the  river.  The  vineyards  on  the  slopes  of  the  left 
bank,  known  as  the  Bopparder  Hamm ,  produce  excellent  wine. 
Then,  on  the  left,  the  village  of  Filzen,  with  a  modern  church. 

r.  Boppard.  —  Hotels.  Spiegel,  R.  2»/2,  D.  2»/2,  B.  1  m.  •,  *Rhein- 
H6tel,  R.  and  A.  3  m.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  3  m.,  'pens.1  6  m. ;  Hibsch,  cheaper, 
good  wine^  these  three  on  the  Rhine;  *Closkann,  in  the  town,  with 
garden.  —  HentzUr*s  Restaurant,  also  a  pension,  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
Muhlthal. 

Hydropathic  Establishments.  Mabienbkbg  (see  below),  'pens'.  8  m. 
per  day  \  Muhlbad,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town. 

Boppard  (210  ft.),  the  ancient  Bondobrica,  founded  by  the  Celts, 
was  afterwards  fortified  by  the  Romans  and  used  as  a  depdt  for  their 
'slingers'  ( 'Balis tarii  Bondobrics').  In  the  12th  cent.  Boppard  was 
a  free  imperial  town,  but  in  1312  Emp.  Henry  VII.  ceded  it,  along 
with  Oberwesel ,  to  his  brother  Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves.  The 
latter,  who  could  not  make  himself  master  of  the  town  till  1318, 
built  the  castle,  which  is  still  preserved.  All  efforts  of  the  inhabi- 
tants to  regain  their  independence  proved  henceforth  unavailing. 
This  pleasant  little  town,  above  which  rises  the  handsome  old  nun* 
nery  of  Marienberg,  has  of  late  attracted  numerous  visitors  owing 
to  the  beauty  and  healthiness  of  its  situation.  Many  of  the  pictur- 
esque old  houses  with  their  quaint ,  wooden  beams  have  unfor- 
tunately been  displaced  by  modern  buildings,  while  numerous 
villas  have  sprung  up  in  the  environs.    Pop.  5300. 

The  wall  enclosing  the  interior  of  the  town,  in  the  form  of  a 
rectangle  1050  ft.  in  length  by  490  ft.  in  width,  is  constructed  of 
Roman  concrete  ('opus  spicatum'),  and  probably  dates  from  the 
reign  of  Valentinian  I.  (A. D.  364-375).  When  complete  it  was 
10  ft.  thick  and  26  ft.  high,  and  was  strengthened  with  towers  at 
the  angles  and  24  semicircular  towers  along  its  sides ;  it  is  still  in 
tolerable  preservation.  The  outer  and  more  extensive  wall  is  mediae- 
val. Boppard,  like  St.  Goar  and  Bacharach,  once  boasted  of  a  Lodge 
of  the  Knights  Templar,  fragments  of  which  with  round-arched  win- 
dows lie  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town.  Knights  Templar  of  Boppard 
are  mentioned  among  the  crusaders  at  the  siege  of  Ptolemais(119i). 

The  handsome  Pfarrkirche,  in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  built 
about  1200,  with  its  two  square  towers  adjacent  to  the  choir,  is 
remarkable  for  its  peculiar  pointed  barrel-vaulting.  —  The  Carme- 
Literlcirche,  in  the  pointed  style,  contains  the  monument  of  a  Coun- 
tess von  Eltz  (d.  1500),  with  a  good  marble  relief  representing  the 
Trinity,  partaking  both  of  the  Renaissance  and  of  the  Gothic  style, 


'■'-- 


EE 


-J  I 


s     9  '-1  ■ 


B-^ti  f I 


to  Maycncc.  BORNHOFEN.  17.  Route*     103 

and  carved  stalls  of  the  15th  century.  Several  old  mural  paintings 
were  discovered  during  the  restoration  of  the  church.  —  The  Pro- 
testant Church,  built  in  1851 ,  is  said  to  have  been  designed  by  Fred- 
erick William  IV.  —  The  old  monastery  of  St.  Martin,  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  town,  is  now  a  reformatory  for  Protestant  children.  — 
The  suppressed  Franciscan  Monastery  with  its  church  has  been  con- 
verted by  government  into  a  seminary  for  Roman  Catholic  teachers. 
The  Marienberg  (Mons  Beatae  Mariae  Virginia),  a  large  building 
which  rises  at  the  back  of  the  town,  100  ft.  above  the  Rhine,  for- 
merly a  Benedictine  nunnery ,  is  now  a  hydropathic  establishment. 

Below  Boppard ,  near  the  Miihlbad  (p.  103) ,  opens  the  MUKlihal ,  a 
valley  enclosed  by  wooded  bills  and  affording  a  number  of  picturesque 
walks.  One  of  the  finest  points  is  the  *Alte  Burt  (960  ft.),  a  hill  at  the  mouth 
of  the  valley  (reached  by  ascending  to  the  right) ,  which  commands  a 
beautiful  view.  Near  it  is  the  'Vierseenplata',  or  'place  of  the  four  lakes', 
whence  four  apparently  unconnected  parts  of  the  Rhine  are  visible.  Far- 
ther up  the  valley,  beyond  the  Pension  ffenttler  (p.  102),  is  the  Bopparder 
Stadtwald,  a  magnificent  forest  of  oaks  and  beeches,  the  most  interesting 
points  in  which  are  indicated  by  way -posts,  and  made  accessible  by 
paths  constructed  by  a  society  in  Boppard. 

The  finest  excursion  from  Boppard  is  to  the  "'Fleckertahohe  (1673  ft. 
above  the  sea,  1486  ft.  above  the  Rhine),  5  M.  distant,  li/s  M.  to  the  left 
of  the  road  to  the  Hunsrucken,  which  must  be  left  at  the  pine-wood,  soon 
after  passing  the  mile-stone  marked  '7,4\  The  very  extensive  view  com- 
prises the  Seven  Hts.,  Kifel,  Hochwald,  Idar  and  Taunus,  and  Honrepos 
(p.  64).  From  the  £.  side  of  the  summit,  on  which  there  is  a  landmark, 
a  small  part  of  the  Rhine  is  visible  near  Bornhofen  (see  below).  A  few 
min.  walk  below  the  summit  are  several  poor  cottages,  in  the  highest  of 
which  good  water  may  be  procured.  The  path  descending  to  (1  hr.)  SaUig 
(p.  104)  through  meadows  and  woods  cannot  be  missed.  The  traveller 
may  avail  himself  of  the  diligence  from  Boppard  to  Simmern  (9  a.m. ;  see 
p.  152)  as  far  as  the  point  where  the  road  to  the  Fleckertshohe  diverges. 
—  A  direct  footpath  ascends  to  the  summit,  leading  through  pleasant 
woods  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  in  iy»  hr.,  but  cannot  easily  be  found 
without  a  guide. 

Fbom  Boppard  to  the  Moselle  (9  M.  \  carr.  20  m).  The  road  leads 
through  Buchholz  (1265  ft.),  to  which  a  guide  (1  m.)  should  be  taken. 
About  ly2  M.  beyond  Herschmesen,  a  path  to  the  left  descends  to  the  Ehren- 
burg  (p.  171);  thence  through  the  Ehrenburger  Thai  to  Brodcnbach  (p.  171). 

Above  Boppard,  on  the  left,  lies  Camp  (Kauth,  on  the  railway ; 
Anker,  on  the  Rhine,  with  'pension'),  so  called  from  the  remains 
of  a  supposed  Roman  intrenchment  on  the  hill,  which  however 
more  probably  dates  from  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  village  is 
healthily  situated  and  frequently  visited  as  a  summer  residence. 
(Path  over  the  hills  to  Liebeneck,  see  p.  102.)  A  road  shaded  with 
walnut-trees  leads  along  the  bank  from  Gamp  to  the  (3/4  M.)  con- 
vent of  — 

1.  Bornhofen  (Qasthof  zum  Marienberg,  with  'pension'),  with  a 
Gothic  Church  erected  in  1435 ,  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  On  a 
"bold  rocky  eminence  above  the  convent  stand  the  twin  castles  of  — 

Sterrehberg  and  Liebenstein,  better  known  as  The  Brothers,  con- 
nected by  a  sharp  chine  of  rock.  The  legend  of  these  castles  may 
thus  be  briefly  told :  — 

Conrad  and  Heinrich,  sons  of  the  knight  Bayer  von  Boppard,  the  lord 
of  Liebenstein,  were  enamoured  of  their  foster-sister,  the  beautiful  Hilde- 


104    Route  11.  ST.  GOAR.  From  Coblen* 

garde.  Heinrich  with  rare  generosity  tore  himself  away  and  joined  the 
crusades,  leaving  his  brother  Conrad  to  win  the  prize.  That  his  son  and 
the  fair  bride  might  still  be  near  him,  the  old  knight  built  the  castle  of 
Sterrenberg  for  their  reception,  but  his  death  occurring  before  its  com- 
pletion, the  nuptials  were  postponed.  Meanwhile.  Conrad's  heart  grew  cold 
towards  Hildegarde.  Hearing  of  the  valiant  deeds  of  his  absent  brother, 
his  soul  burned  to  share  his  honours,  and  wearied  of  an  inactive  life,  he 
joined  the  crusades.  Hildegarde  now  passed  her  days  in  the  lonely  castle 
of  Liebenstein,  brooding  over  her  sad  lot,  not  doubting  the  affection  of 
Conrad,  but  weeping  over  the  uncertainty  of  his  return.  Suddenly  Conrad 
returned  to  Sterrenberg  with  a  lovely  Grecian  bride,  and  the  outraged  Hilde- 
garde ,  stunned  by  the  blow ,  shut  herself  up  in  the  loneliest  chamber  of 
her  dreary  abode,  and  refused  to  see  any  one  but  her  attendant.  Late 
one  evening  a  stranger  knight  demanded  the  hospitality  of  the  castle.    He 

S roved  to  be  the  chivalrous  Heinrich,  who ,  hearing  of  his  brother's  per- 
dy,  resolved  to  avenge  his  foster-sister's  wrongs.  He  accordingly  chal- 
lenged Conrad  to  single  combat,  but  before  the  brothers'  swords  had  cross- 
ed. Hildegarde's  figure  interposed  between  them  and  insisted  on  a  recon- 
ciliation, to  which  they  reluctantly  consented.  Hildegarde  then  retired  to 
the  convent  of  Bornhofen ,  at  the  base  of  the  rock  on  which  the  castles 
stand.  Conrad's  Grecian  bride  soon  proved  faithless,  and  he,  overcome 
with  shame  and  remorse,  threw  himself  on  his  generous  brother's  breast, 
exclaiming  that  no  consolation  was  now  left  him  but  his  friendship.  Thus 
their  estrangement  ended,  and  the  brothers  thenceforth  lived  together  in 
harmony  and  retirement  at  Liebenstein,  while  Sterrenberg  was  for  ever 
deserted. 

Sterrenberg  was  held  as  early  as  the  12th  cent,  as  a  fief  of  the 
empire  by  the  knights  of  Boland,  and  in  1317  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Electors  of  Treves.  The  date  of  its  abandonment  is 
unknown.  It  lies  on  the  extreme  brink  of  the  rock,  separated  from 
Liebenstein  by  a  massive  wall.  The  ruins  are  interesting  and  com- 
mand a  fine  view  of  the  rocky  ravines  beneath  (restaurant). 

r.  Salzig  (Schloss  Liebenstein),  so  called  from  its  weak  saline 
spring ,  lies  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard ,  whence  ship-loads  of 
cherries  are  annually  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine ,  Holland ,  and 
England.  Farther  up  (1.)  lies  the  village  of  Nieder-Kestert  (Stern), 
in  a  fertile  situation. 

r.  Hirzenach  (Gomes) ;  at  the  upper  end  of  the  village  is  a 
small  Gothic  synagogue.  A  handsome  building ,  once  a  deanery, 
and  the  church ,  built  about  1170,  formerly  belonged  to  the  Abbey 
of  Siegburg. 

1.  Ehrcnthal  is  a  small  village  inhabited  by  miners  who  work 
the  lead-mines  in  the  vicinity. 

1.  Welmich  (Adler ;  Deutscher  Kaiser),  picturesquely  situated, 
with  a  small  Gothic  church,  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the 
Thurnbcrg,  or  Deurenburg.  This  stronghold,  begun  by  Archbishop 
Boemund  of  Treves,  and  completed  in  1363  by  his  successor  Kuno  von 
Falkenstein,  was  derisively  called  the  "House  (Maus)  by  the  Counts 
of  Katzenellenbogen,  in  contradistinction  to  their  'Cat'  (p.  106). 
Ascent  fatiguing,  but  there  is  a  fine  view  from  the  summit, 
especially  towards  St.  Goar.  The  interior  contains  a  few  points  of 
architectural  interest.  (Path  over  the  hills  to  Braubaoh,  see  p.  101.) 
±-        r.  St.  Goar  (^Schneider ,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town  j  *Rhein- 


to  Mayence.  RHEINFELS.  17.  Route.     105 

fete,  with  restaurant,  opposite  the  pier;  Lowe;  Zum  kaUen  Keller; 
steam-ferryboat  to  St.  Goarshausen,  10  pf. ;  comp.  the  Map,  p.  102), 
a  town  with  1250  inhab.,  the  handsomest  of  the  smaller  Rhenish 
towns,  and  deriving  a  look  of  additional  importance  from  the  ex- 
tensive rains  of  Rheinfels ,  owes  its  name  and  origin  to  a  chapel 
founded  in  the  time  of  Siegbert,  King  of  Austrasia(570),  by  St.  Goar, 
who  preached  the  gospel  here ,  and  whose  aid  was  afterwards  fre- 
quently invoked  by  pious  boatmen  when  in  distress.  Down  to 
1794  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Lower  County  of  Katzenellenbogen, 
which  lay  chiefly  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and  extended 
as  far  as  the  Lahn.  (The  upper  county  lay  to  the  S.  of  the  Main, 
p.  221.) 

The  Protestant  Church,  built  about  1468 ,  contains  monuments 
of  the  Landgrave  Philip  (d.  1583)  and  his  countess.  A  flaw  in  the 
altar  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  Gustarus  Adolphus  in  1632, 
who,  indignant  at  the  damage  done  to  the  church  by  the  Spaniards, 
violently  struck  the  altar  with  his  sword.  The  crypt  on  the  E.  side 
once  contained  the  bones  of  St.  Goar.  —  The  Roman  Catholic  church 
is  adorned  with  an  old  stone  effigy  of  the  saint  with  an  inscription. 

A  carious  old  custom ,  the  KHdnteln" ,  or  Initiation ,  which  prevailed 
here  till  the  beginning  of  the  steamboat-traffic  in  1827,  is  said  to  have 
dated  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  Every  traveller  who  visited  the 
town  for  the  first  time  was  attached  to  a  ring  in  the  wall  of  the  Custom- 
house, and  obliged  to  submit  to  the  water  or  the  wine -ordeal.  If  the 
former  was  selected,  a  good  ducking  was  the  result  i  the  pleasanter  alter- 
native consisted  in  drinking  a  goblet  of  wine  to  the  memory  of  Charle- 
magne, the  sovereign  of  England ,  the  reigning  prince ,  and  the  members 
of  the  society  which  enforced  obedience  to  the  custom.  The  traveller 
was  then  crowned  and  invested  with  the  rights  of  a  citizen  and  member 
of  the  society,  and  finally  had  to  present  a  donation  to  the  poor  and 
enter  his  name  in  the  'Hansettrach'. 

The  castle  of  ♦Rheinfels/ rising  at  the  back  of  the  town,  377  ft. 
above  the  Rhine  \*fi  hr.  from  the  pier),  is  the  most  imposing  ruin 
on  the  river.  It  was  founded  in  1245  by  Count  Diether  III.  of  Katzen- 
ellenbogen, a  friend  of  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  and  a  new  Rhine-toll 
was  established  here.  Ten  years  later  a  confederation  of  twenty-six 
Rhenish  towns  (p.  138),  dissatisfied  with  the  newly  imposed  burden, 
attacked  the  castle,  but  after  a  siege  of  fifteen  months  were  com- 
pelled to  withdraw.  In  1692  it  was  bravely  and  successfully  defended 
by  the  Hessian  General  von  Gorz  against  the  French  General  Count 
Tallard  with  an  army  of  24,000  men.  In  1758  the  castle  was  sur- 
prised and  taken  by  the  French,  who  kept  a  garrison  in  it  till  1763. 
Thirty  years  later  it  was  basely  deserted  by  the  Hessian  commandant, 
and  fell,  with  its  valuable  stores ,  into  the  hands  of  the  French  re- 
volutionary army  (2nd  Nov.,  1794).  Three  years  afterwards  it  was 
blown  up,  and  in  1812  it  was  sold  for  the  paltry  sum  of  100 1.  The 
rain  now  belongs  to  the  Emperor  of  Germany,  who  purchased  it  in 
1843.  The  interior  contains  little  that  is  worthy  of  note ;  view  limit- 
ed. The  custodian  is  generally  at  or  near  the  castle  (fee  V2-I  m-> 
more  for  a  party).  /   > 


106    Route  17.  ST.  GOARSHA.USEN.  From  CobUnz 

The  *Spitsenstein,  a  hill  to  the  S.W.,  crowned  with  a  refuge-hut, 
and  commanding  a  magnificent  view  from  Caub  to  Oberwesel,  may  be 
ascended  from  St.  Goar  in  I1/*  hr.,  via  Biebemheim.  Pleasant  descent  by 
Niederburg  to  Oberwesel  (p.  106). 

1.  St.  Goarshausen  (715  ft. ;  *Adlcr ,  carriage  to  Reichenberg 
and  Patersberg  6-8  m. ;  Lamm,  D.  2  m.,  'pens.'  4^2  m.;  ZumHohen- 
zolltr;  Nassauer  Hof;  RheinisclierHof;  screw-steamer  to  St.  Goar, 
10  pf.),  a  small  town  with  1400  inhab.,  chiefly  consisting  of  a 
single  row  of  new  houses,  is  a  pleasant  place  for  a  stay  of  a  few 
days.  The  upper  part  of  the  town  is  so  confined  between  the  river 
and  the  hill  that  a  bulwark  of  masonry ,  on  which  two  watch- 
towers  are  situated,  had  to  be  built  at  an  early  period  to  protect 
the  town  against  inundations.  Before  the  construction  of  the  new 
bulwarks  the  old  wall  formed  the  only  path  of  communication  be- 
tween the  houses  when  the  river  was  high.  The  new  Protestant 
church  in  the  round-arch  style  was  completed  in  1863.  There  is 
a  good  school  for  boys  here.    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  102. 

Above  St.  Goarshausen,  about  halfway  up  the  hill,  rises  the 
castle  of  Neu-KatzcnelUnbogen,  commonly  called  the  Cat  (KatzJ, 
erected  in  1393  by  Count  Johann  of  Katzenellenbogen,  whose  family 
became  extinct  in  1470.  It  then  belonged  to  the  Hessian  princes, 
and  was  occupied  by  a  Hessian  garrison  down  to  1804,  when  it  was 
destroyed  by  the  French.  A  few  rooms  have  been  restored.  (Guide 
with  keys  from  the  Rheinischer  Hof  at  St.  Goarshausen,  50-75  pf.) 

The  *Schweiserthal ,  or  'Swiss  Valley',  extending  about  2  M.  inland 
from  the  foot  of  the  Katz  at  the  back  of  St.  Goarshausen  (reached  by 
proceeding  to  the  left  at  the  upper  end  of  the  village,  and  passing  below 
the  railway),  contains  picturesque  rocks,  miniature  waterfalls,  and  pleas- 
ant shady  walks.  To  the  left  in  the  background,  on  the  brink  of  the  vine- 
clad  slope,  stands  the  village  of  Patersberg  (800  ft.),  to  which  a  steep 
path  ascends  in  7a  hr.  from  St.  Goarshausen;  thence  to  Reichenberg  (see 
below)  about  21/?  M.  more.  —  Those  who  wish  to  visit  the  Lurlei  from  the 
Schweizerthal  follow  the  cart-road  in  the  valley  for  about  y8BI.  (the  *Pro- 
menadenweg*'  not  recommended),  and  at  a  projecting  rock  surmounted  by 
a  pavilion  ascend  the  HUknerberg  by  a  steep  footpath,  and  part  of  the  way 
by  steps ,  to  the  '■Manncheri'  (view  of  the  Schweizerthal).  Then  cross  the 
hill  to  (25  min.)  a  point  commanding  a  "View  of  the  basin  of  St.  Goar. 
From  this  point  follow  the  cart-road  on  the  height  in  a  straight  direction, 
soon  entering  low  wood-,  after  V*  hr.  the  footpath  to  the  Lurlei  (not 
easily  recognised  from  this  side)  descends  to  the  right,  and  the  rock  itself 
is  reached  in  V*  hr.  more.  A  steep  path  (see  p.  107)  descends  from  the 
Lurlei  to  the  Rhine  in  7  min.  \  thence  by  the  road  to  St.  Goarshausen 
1  M.  (the  whole  excursion  from  St.  Goarshausen  to  the  Huhnerberg, 
Lurlei ,  and  back  occupying  about  2  hrs.). 

^Excursion  to  Reichenberg,  3!/2  M.  inland  from  St.  Goarshausen. 
The  road  (diligence-route  to  Nastatten)  leads  through  the  Haselbachthal, 
a  valley  which  opens  a  little  below  St.  Goarshausen  (where  a1  carriage 
may  be  hired  for  the  excursion).  Walkers  ascend  through  the  Swiss 
Valley  to  Patersberg  (see  above),  from  which  Reichenberg  is  2  M.  distant. 
A  shady  footpath,  provided  with  numerous  benches,  diverges  to  the  right 
from  the  road  through  the  Haselbachthal  just  at  the  entrance  to  the 
valley,  follows  the  windings  of  the  road,  and  rejoins  it  near  the  Reichenberg. 
A  pleasant  way  back  is  by  the  road  through  the  Haselbachthal,  and  past 
the  Offenthaler  Hof  on  the  hill  about  l»/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Reichenberg ; 
then  through  the  upper  part  of  the  Swiss  Valley  to  the  Lurlei.  (Through* 
this  part  of  the  valley  there  is  no  direct  path  to  St.  Goarshausen,  but  on 


toMagctuse.  LURLEI.  17.  RouU,     107 

the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  a  narrow  path  descends  thither  from  the 
point  where  the  "Lurlei  path  begins.) 

The  castle  of  *£eiehenbersj ,  erected  in  1284  by  Count  Wilhelm  I.  of 
Katsenellenbogen,  and  daring  the  Hessian  supremacy  the  residence  of  the 
governor  of  the  lower  county,  was  at  length  sold  in  1818  for  the  sake  of 
the  building  materials.  Fortunately,  however,  it  escaped  demolition,  and 
is  still  a  grand  and  picturesque  edifice  with  a  lofty  tower,  and  in  better 
preservation  than  most  of  the  other  Rhenish  castles.  The  approach  to 
the  Court  (see  also  p.  xxxi)  is  striking.  Here  on  the  left  we  observe  the 
chief  entrance  to  the  castle  flanked  with  two  columns  of  granite.  The 
vaulted  chambers  of  the  ground-floor  in  the  Intejuob  are  well  preserved. 
A  memorial  tablet  has  been  placed  here  in  honour  of  the  archivist  Habel, 
who  devoted  himself  with  most  praiseworthy  industry  to  the  preservation 
of  this  and  several  other  Hassovian  castles.  The  castle  has  been  restored, 
and  is  now  the  property  of  Baron  Oettingen  (guide,  50-75  pf).  A  number 
of  the  rooms  are  decorated  with  old  weapons,  armour,  domestic  uten- 
sils, etc.  The  old  Chapel  consisted  of  three  stories,  but  the  dividing 
beams  have  been  broken  away  *,  the  Romanesque  columns,  however,  placed 
one  above  the  other,  which  bear  the  lofty  pointed  vaulting,  are  still  pre- 
served. The  Towsn,  which  is  ascended  by  wooden  steps,  commands  a 
view  of  the  neighbourhood.  A  second  tower  to  the  E.,  connected  with 
he  other  by  a  lofty  retaining  wall,  is  half  destroyed.  The  village  of  Rei- 
chtnbtrg  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  is  a  very  poor  place. 

Immediately  above  St.  Goar,  and  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream,  lies  the  'Bank',  a  sunken  ledge  of  rock  running  out  from 
the  W.  bank ,  over  which  the  water  rushes  and  seethes  in  rapids 
and  miniature  whirlpools  (Gewirre) ,  which  are  dangerous  to  small 
boats  if  not  skilfully  managed.  The  channel  on  the  £.  side  is  the 
safest. 

On  the  left  rise  the  imposing  rocks  of  the  *Lurlei,  433  ft.  above 
the  Rhine.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  precipice  a  steep  path  leads  to 
the  summit.  Ascent  20  min . ;  view  limited .  The  well-known  legend 
of  the  nymph  who  had  her  dwelling  on  the  rook,  and,  like  the  sirens 
of  old,  enticed  sailors  and  fishermen  to  their  destruction  in  the  rapids 
at  the  foot  of  the  precipice ,  has  long  been  a  favourite  theme  with 
the  poet  and  the  painter.  Heine's  beautiful  ballad  (1823)  is  still 
deservedly  popular.  According  to  Marner,  a  poet  of  the  13th  cent., 
the  Nibelungen  treasure  lies  hidden  beneath  the  4Lurlenberg'. 

The  famous  echo  is  not  audible  from  the  steamer,  and  can  only  be 
successfully  awakened  by  pedestrians  in  the  quiet  of  early  morning  or 
late  evening.  To  the  traveller  descendig  the  river  the  edge  of  the  Lurlei 
rocks  presents  the  appearance  of  a  human  profile,  supposed  to  resemble 
that  of  Napoleon  I.  The  Lurlei  is  penetrated  by  a  railway  tunnel  (p.  127), 
while  three  others  cut  off  the  rocky  angles  on  the  opposite  bank  (p.  125). 

In  this  rocky  basin  is  carried  on  the  once  very  lucrative  salmon- 
fishery  of  St.  Goar.  The  cool,  shady  depths  and  sandy  bottom  of  the 
river  at  this  point  appear  peculiarly  suited  to  the  habits  of  the  fish.  They 
are  captured  in  nets  only.  The  yield,  formerly  8000  lbs.  per  annum,  has 
dwindled  to  barely  1000 lbs.,  most  of  the  fish  having  been  frightened  away 
by  the  noisy  steamboat  and  railway  traffic.  The  Rhine  salmon  are  highly 
esteemed,- and  realise  2-3*.  per  pound  and  upwards.  This  is  the  narrow- 
est and  deepest  (76  ft.)  part  of  the  river. 

Opposite  the  Rossstein,  a  rocky  point  to  the  left,  which  the 
railway  penetrates  by  a  tunnel ,  a  ridge  of  rocks ,  known  as  the 
'Seven  Virgins,  is  visible  when  the  river  is  low.  It  is  said  that  these 
rugged  masses  were  once  seven  fair  maidens  of  the  Schonburg,  who 


108    Route  17.  OBERWESEL.  From  Coblenz 

were  condemned  by  the  river-god  for  their  prudery  to  this  meta- 
morphosis. 

r.  Oberwesel  (^RheinischerHof,  on  the  Rhine,  not  far  from  the 
station,  R.  l1^1**.,  B.  75  pf.,  pension'  5  m.;  Villa  Nova,  h6tel 
garni  &  'pension',  5-6  m.  per  day),  an  ancient  town  with  2600  in- 
hab.,  named  Vosavia  in  Peutinger's  map  of  Roman  roads  (p.  xxiv), 
and  once  a  town  of  the  empire,  was  afterwards  ceded  by  Henry  VII. 
(1308-14)  to  his  brother  Archbishop  Baldwin  of  Treves,  whereupon 
it  degenerated  into  a  mere  country-town  of  the  electorate  of  that 
name.  Its  churches,  its  walls,  and  its  pinnacled  towers  (like  those 
at  Bacharach,  p.  110),  over  which  frown  the  ruins  of  the  Schon- 
burg,  render  Oberwesel  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  on  the 
Rhine. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  town  rises  the  conspicuous  *Frauenkirchey 
or  Church  of  Our  Lady,  a  fine  Gothic  edifice,  erected  in  1307-31. 
The  narrow  and  lofty  choir  and  nave  rise  high  above  the  aisles. 

Interior.  The  Rood-loft,  of  the  14th  cent.,  which  separates  the  choir 
from  the  nave,  deserves  particular  inspection. '  The  ancient  wood-carvings 
of  the  high-altar ,  coeval  with  the  foundation ,  and  two  pictures  said  to 
have  been  painted  by  Canon  Lutern  in  1504,  are  also  interesting.  The 
lower  part  of  an  altar-piece  in  the  N.  chapel  represents  the  landing  of 
the  li,tXX)  virgins  (p.  42) ;  on  the  N.  wall  is  a  series  of  small  pictures 
representing  the  End  of  the  World  and  the  Last  Judgment.  The  N. 
chapel  contains  monuments  of  knights  and  counts  of  Schonburg,  in  the 
Renaissance  style.  By  the  W.  wall  is  the  late  Gothic  monument  of 
Canon  Lutern  (d.  1505).  On  the  pillars  are  Mural  Paintings  of  the  Gothic 
period,  which  have*  recently  been  discovered  under  the  whitewash. 

The  Gothic  Chapel  on  the  town-wall,  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine, 
is  dedicated  to  St.  Werner  (p.  111).  The  TownHaU,  in  the  mediae- 
val style,  with  red  sandstone  pinnacles,  was  erected  in  1849.  The 
handsome  round  Ochsenthurm,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  with  its 
lofty  pinnacles,  formerly  belonged  to  the  fortifications  of  the  town. 

Upon  the  hill  lies  the  late-Gothic  St.  Martinskirche ,  with  Its 
castle-like  tower  with  turrets  at  the  corners.  The  S.  aisle  con- 
tains ,  under  a  modern  canopy ,  a  coloured  and  gilt  figure  of  the 
Virgin,  of  Gothic  workmanship. 

The  rocky  ravines  which  run  inland  from  Oberwesel  yield  ex- 
cellent wines,  the  most  esteemed  of  which  is  that  of  the  Engeholl 
valley,  near  the  Schonburg. 

Above  Oberwesel  rise  the  extensive  and  picturesque  ruins  of 
(r.)  *Schdnburg,  with  its  four  huge  towers,  erected  about  the  12th 
cent.,  the  cradle  of  a  once  mighty  race  which  became  ^extinct  in 
1713.  In  1615  it  was  the  birthplace  of  Count  Frederick  Hermann 
of  Schonburg,  better  known  as  Marshal  Schomberg,  who  fought 
under  the  Prince  of  Orange,  and  in  1668,  when  in  the  French 
service,  compelled  the  Spaniards  to  acknowledge  the  House  of 
Braganza.  On  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  he  was  obliged 
to  quit  the  French  service,  and  under  the  Elector  of  Brandenburg 
became  minister  of  state,  and  governor  of  Prussia ;  he  finally  passed 
over  to  England  with  the  Prince  of  Orange ,  and  fell  at  the  memor- 


to  Mayence.  GAUB.  17.  Route.     109 

able  battle  of  the  Boyne  in  1690.  Id  the  Thirty  Yean'  War  the 
castle  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Swedes ,  and  in  1689  was  Backed 
by  the  French.  The  ruins,  now  belonging  to  Baron  Laffert,  deserve 
a  visit  for  their  own  sake  as  well  as  for  the  view. 

1.  Canb(705  ft.;  Zum  Qrunen  Waldy  well  spoken  of;  Adltr; 
wine  at  *Erlenbacti8,  in  the  tower),  an  ancient  town  with  2000  in- 
hab.,  still  surrounded  with  mediaeval  fortifications,  and  a  wine- 
growing place  of  some  note,  is  chiefly  important  on  account  of  its 
productive  subterranean  slate-quarries.  The  slates  ('ley en')  are 
split  in  a  large  building  on  the  spot.  A  landslip,  which  had  been 
long  feared,  took  place  on  the  night  of  10th  March,  1876,  and  de- 
stroyed several  houses ,  burying  25  persons  in  the  ruins.  In  1878 
another  landslip  occurred,  on  a  smaller  scale  and  fortunately  doing 
no  injury ;  but  all  danger  of  a  recurrence  of  similar  disasters  has 
now  been  obviated  by  the  withdrawal  of  the  water  collected  in  the 
interior  of  the  hill.  A  walk  over  the  scene  of  the  slip  is  in- 
teresting, and  may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  the  ruins  of  Gu- 
tenfels,  the  key  of  which  is  obtained  at  one  of  the  hotels  (climb  of 
20  min.). 

At  the  back  of  the  town  rises  the  picturesque  castle  of  Gutenfels, 
with  its  lofty  square  pinnacled  tower,  named  Cube  in  the  middle 
ages,  which  was  sold  together  with  the  little  town  of  Caub  by  the 
barons  of  Falkenstein  to  the  Palatinate  in  1277.  The  building  was 
not  destroyed  until  1807.  The  English  Earl  of  Cornwall,  who  was 
elected  King  of  Germany  in  1257,  is  said  to  have  become  enamour- 
ed here  of  the  beautiful  Countess  Beatrix  of  Falkenstein,  whom  he 
married  on  the  death  of  his  first  wife  in  1269.  In  1504  the  castle 
was  unsuccessfully  besieged  for  six  weeks  by  the  Landgrave  of  Hes- 
sen,  an  event  recorded  in  a  metrical  inscription  on  a  slab  of  stone 
built  into  a  wall  at  Caub.  In  1508  it  was  strengthened  and  received 
its  present  name ;  and  in  1647  it  was  taken  by  the  Hessians  under 
General  Mortaigne.  An  attendant  is  generally  to  be  found  at  the 
castle  in  summer. 

The  pavilion  on  the  Adolphshfthe,  a  hill  to  the  8.  of  Ganb  which 
may  be  reached  in  */«  br.,  commands  an  extensive  view.  —  The  ascent 
of  the  valley  as  far  as  the  Sauerburg  (p.  112)  is  recommended. 

Above  Caub  on  a  ledge  of  rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine,  rises 
the  *Pfala,  or  Pfaltgrafctutcin ,  a  small  hexagonal  building,  well 
preserved  externally  and  internally.  It  has  a  pentagonal  tower  covered 
with  an  unsightly  roof,  numerous  turrets  and  jutting  corners,  loop- 
holes in  every  direction,  and  one  entrance  only,  situated  about  6  ft. 
above  the  rock ,  and  reached  by  meanB  of  a  ladder.  The  sharp  S. 
(upper)  angle  of  the  building  with  its  stanchions  and  grappling-irons 
serves  to  break  the  force  of  the  floating  ice  in  winter.  On  this  side  is 
seen  the  lion  of  the  Palatinate  as  bearer  of  the  escutcheon  of  the 
ancient  lords  of  the  castle.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  tablet 
commemorating  the  passage  of  the  Rhine  on  1st  Jan.  1814, 


110    Route  17.  BACHARACH.  From  Coblcn* 

The  Interior  (keys  kept  by  a  boatman  at  Caub,  who  ferries  visitors 
to  the  building;  fee  50-70  pf.)  is  unattractive.  The  small  Court  is  sur- 
rounded with  vaults.  The  Tower  commands  a  good  view  of  the  river  in 
every  direction.  The  Well  is  said  to  be  quite  independent  of  the  river 
for  its  supply  of  water.  The  different  chambers  in  the  interior  were 
last  inhabited  by  invalid  soldiers  of  the  Elector  Palatine,  whose  duty 
was  to  signal  to  the  custom-house  at  Caub  the  approach  of  laden  vessels. 
As  early  as  the  13th  cent,  a  watch-tower  was  erected  here  for  the  pur- 
pose of  levying  toll  on  passing  boats.  For  the  same  purpose  King 
Lewis  the  Bavarian  (1314-47)  erected  the  present  stronghold,  which  has 
since  been  restored,  but  his  exactions  were  so  heavy  that  Pope  John  XXII. 
in  a  bull  of  1326  commanded  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  to  destroy  the 
castle.  According  to  an  early  tradition,  the  origin  of  which  is  involved 
in  obscurity,  the  Countesses  Palatine  were  in  the  habit  of  repairing  to 
the  castle  to  await  their  accouchements  in  a  small  chamber  which  is 
still  pointed  out  to  the  curious. 

At  this  point ,  early  on  New  Year's  Day,  1814,  a  Prussian  corps 
under  York,  and  a  division  of  Russian  troops  under  Langeron, 
effected  the  passage  of  the  Rhine  under  the  direction  of  Blucher. 
A  small  monument  in  sandstone  on  the  road  on  the  W.  bank ,  a 
little  above  the  Pfalz,  commemorates  this  event,  informing  us 
that  the  marshal  was  on  his  way  to  effect  the  'regeneration  of 
Prussia  and  the  German  Fatherland". 

r.  Bacharach  (*H6tel  Wasum,  at  the  station,  with  a  garden, 
R.  and  B.  8  m.,  also  a  'pension';  Zum  Blucherthal,  in  the  town),  a 
town  with  1700  inhab.,  lies  picturesquely  at  the  entrance  to  the 
narrow  Stcegcr  Thai,  and  is  commanded  by  the  castle  of  Stahleck, 
at  the  foot  of  which  stands  the  beautiful  ruin  of  St  Wftrnftr'g 
church.  The  old  town- walls,  a  great  part  of  which  is  still  well 
preserved,  descending  from  the  castle  and  enclosing  the  town, 
with  towers  at  intervals  of  100-150  paces,  afford  a  good  example 
of  mediaeval  fortifications.  The  town  itself  was  also  formerly  noted 
for  its  picturesque  mediaeval  appearance ,  but  a  destructive  fire  in 
1872  has  left  but  few  of  the  curious  old  timber  and  clay  houses. 

Bacharach,  called  Ara  Bacehi  in  the  middle  ages,  was  noted 
for  its  wine  at  an  early  period ,  and  down  to  the  16th  cent,  was 
one  of  the  greatest  wine-marts  on  the  river.  Pope  Pius  II.  (./Eneas 
Sylvius)  caused  a  cask  of  'Bacharach  wine'  to  be  brought  to  Rome 
annually,  and  the  town  of  Nuremberg  obtained  its  freedom  in  return 
for  a  yearly  tribute  to  the  Emp.  Wenzel  of  four  tuns  of  the  same  wine. 

At  the  point  where 'the  road  through  the  Steeger  Thai  diverges 
from  the  main  street  of  the  town  rises  the  Church  of  St.  Peter ,  or 
Templars'  Church,  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  of  elegant  proportions, 
with  a  round  choir  towards  the  main  street ,  two  round  E.  towers, 
and  a  square  W.  tower.  Under  this  last  is  a  fine  early-Gothic  porch, 
and  on  the  N.  side  there  is  a  rich  portal.  The  church  has  been 
restored  since  the  damage  done  by  the  fire  of  1872. 

On  a  slight  eminence  (path  on  the  S.  side  of  the  church  of  St. 
Peter)  stands  the  *  Church  of  St.  Werner,  erected  in  1293  in  the 
finest  Gothic  style  in  the  form  of  a  trefoil,  partially  restored  in  the 
15th  cent.,  but  now  a  ruin,   one-third  of  the  original  building 


to  Mayenee.  STAHLEOK.  17.  Route.     Ill 

having  been  destroyed.  It  was  erected  to  commemorate  the  canoni- 
sation of  St.  Werner,  a  boy  who,  according  to  tradition,  was  murdered 
by  Jews  in  1286,  and  whose  body  was  landed  here  after  having 
miraculously  floated  up  the  stream  from  Oberwesel.  Within  the 
precincts  of  the  church  is  a  burial-ground.  Above  the  chapel 
(10  min.  walk)  rises  the  castle  of  Stahleck  (see  below). 

The  Bteeger-Thal  at  the  back  of  the  town,  sometimes  called  the 
Blueher-Thal  from  the  fact  that  Bliicher  after  his  passage  of  the  Rhine 
on  1st  Jan.  1814  pursued  a  body  of  French  troops  through  this  valley 
towards  the  Hunsriick,  affords  a  pleasant  walk.  After  V*  ■•  we  take  the 
road  diverging  to  the  right,  and  l1/*  M.  farther  reach  Steeg  ^  which  yields 
an  excellent  red  wine.  Above  the  village  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
Siahlberg,  which  like  those  of  Stahleck  and  Fiirstenberg  (see  below)  once 
belonged  to  the  Counts  Palatine. 

Fbom  Bacharach  bt  Stbombebo  to  Kreuzhach  (2073  M. :  Bacharach  to 
the  Rheinboller  Foundry  8,  Stromberg  5,  Kreuznach  7'/2  M.).  From  Bacha- 
rach through  the  valley  of  Steeg  to  Steeg  (1  M.),  see  above.  At  the 
tower  (V«  M.)  with  the  small  pond,  we  select  the  middle  of  the  three 
paths,  which  cuts  off  the  long  windings  of  the  high  road.  At  the  last 
sharp  bend  of  the  road  in  the  Steeger  Thai  (l1/*  M.  from  the  tower)  the 
footpath  ascends  to  the  right  and  enters  the  wood;  the  road  is  after- 
wards regained,  and  followed  for  a  short  way ;  the  footpath  then  re-enters 
the  wood,  and  finally  crosses  the  meadows  to  (3yf  M.)  Dittelbach  (thus  far 
a  guide  is  desirable,  although  not  indispensable).  Beyond  the  village  we 
follow  the  same  direction  (8.W.),  and  cross  the  meadows  to  the  (l>/«  M.) 
KhembOlUr  Foundry  (*Inn),  an  extensive  establishment  picturesquely  sit- 
uated 1115  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The  road  leads  hence  through  the 
beautiful  wooded  ravine  of  the  QBldenbach.  On  the  slope  to  the  right  rises 
the  modern  chateau  of  Carlsburg.  Farther  on  is  the  Bahler  HtiUe,  another 
extensive  foundry.  Immediately  before  (5  H.)  Stromberg  (*Fustenburg ; 
Hirtch;  carr.  to  Kreuanach  12  m.)  is  reached,  the  ruined  castle  of  Qoldenfels 
rises  on  the  height  to  the  right ;  and  beyond  the  village,  almost  contiguous 
to  it,  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  Futtenburg.  Beyond  Stromberg  the 
scenery  soon  becomes  uninteresting;  (2y<  M.)  JBchweppenhatuen ;  (2V4  H.) 
Windetheitn.  At  the  point  (3  M.)  where  the  road  begins  to  descend  into 
the  Nahethal .  called  the  kHungrige  Wolf  (714  ft.),  ly*  M.  from  Kreuz- 
nach, a  magnificent  and  extensive  prospect  is  enjoyed.  —  If  we  follow 
the  high-road  through  the  Steeger  Thai  instead  of  the  above-mentioned 
footpath,  we  first  reach  the  village  of  Rheinbbllen,  and  then  the  Foundry, 
l>/2  M.  farther  (a  route  longer  by  2!/a  M.);  diligence  from  Bacharach  to 
RheinbSllen  (9  M.)  twice  daily,  in  2  hrs. 

Above  Bacharach  rises  the  once  strongly  fortified  castle  of 
Stahleck ,  the  extensive  ruins  of  which  extend  down  to  the  valley, 
erected  about  the  year  1156,  and  the  principal  residence  of  the 
Counts  Palatine  down  to  1253.  The  French  besieged  and  took 
the  castle  and  town  eight  times  in  1620-40,  and  finally  destroyed 
the  former  in  1689.  The  ruins  are  surrounded  with  pleasure- 
grounds,  which  command  a  picturesque  but  limited  view.  Nearly 
opposite  the  castle  lies  the  village  of  Lorchhausen,  with  a  modern 
Gothic  church. 

On  a  rocky  eminence  on  the  right,  near  the  village  of  Rhein- 
dicbach,  rise  the  handsome  rains  of  Furstenberg,  made  over  to  the 
Palatinate  in  1243  as  a  fief  of  Cologne.  In  1292 ,  when  Adolph  of 
Nassau  was  on  his  way  to  be  crowned  at  Aix-la-Chapelle ,  the 
vassals  of  the  robber-knight  of  the  castle  had  the  audacity  forcibly  to 
detain  the  vessel  of  the  king  for  the  purpose  of  levying  toll.    In 


112     Route  17.  LORCH.  FromCoblenz 

1321  the  castle  was  taken  by  the  Emp.  Lewis  from  his  opponent 
Frederick,  and  presented  to  his  consort  Margaret  of  Holland.  In  1632 
it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Swedes,  and  in  1689  was  destroyed  by 
the  French. 

The  brook  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  here  was  anciently  the  boun- 
dary between  the  dominions  of  the  archbishops  of  Mayence  and  Treves. 
Farther  up  the  valley  are  the  villages  of  Oberdiebach  and  Manubach, 
famous  for  their  wine. 

Opposite  the  Fiirstenburg ,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Wisper, 
which  falls  into  the  Rhine  here,  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  Nol- 
lingen,  or  Nollich,  mentioned  in  1110,  581  ft.  above  the  Rhine. 
The  rugged  cliff  on  its  W.  slope  is  called  the  ''DeviVs  Ladder1,  of 
which  a  legend  records  that  a  knight  of  Lorch  with  the  assistance 
of  mountain  sprites  once  scaled  it  on  horseback,  and  thus  gained  the 
hand  of  his  lady-love. 

1.  Lorch  (*Schwan,  with  a  garden  on  the  Rhine,  good  wine  and 
cuisine,  R.  and  B.  2  m.,  D.  Wfam,,  'pension*  from  5m.,  generally 
full  in  summer;  *  Krone),  a  small  town  with  2000  inhab.,  forming  a 
long  street  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  the  Roman  Laureacum  (?), 
mentioned  in  a  charter  as  early  as  832,  was  in  the  middle  ages  a 
favourite  residence  of  noble  families,  who  founded  a  school  here 
for  the  exclusive  education  of  their  sons.  The  lofty  Gothic  Church 
of  St.  Martin,  of  the  13-15th  cent.,  which  possesses  the  finest  bells 
in  this  district,  was  entirely  restored  in  1876-80.  The  high-altar 
with  rich  late-Gothic  carving  of  1483,  a  fine  late-Gothic  font  of  1464, 
and  several  monuments  of  knightly  families  of  the  Rheingau,  espe- 
cially that  of  Joh.  Hilchen,  companion  in  arms  of  Sickingen,  merit 
inspection.  The  inscription  on  the  latter  records  that  Hilchen  distin- 
guished himself  against  the  Turks,  and  as  field-marshal  in  1542-44 
against  the  French.  His  house,  a  handsome  Renaissance  building 
of  1546,  adorned  with  sculpturing,  is  situated  on  the  Rhine  about 
the  middle  of  the  village. 

Through  the  *Wiaperthal  to  Schlangenbad  and  Schiqalbach,  a  beautiful 
walk  of  about  20  M. ;  from  Lorch  to  the  Kammerberger  MUhle  6,  Lauken- 
miihle  2V4,  Oeroldstein  2*/*,  Niedergladbach  3,  Hansen  3,  Schlangenbad 
(p.  128)  3M.,  or  from  Geroldstein  by  Langenseifen  to  Schwalbach  (p.  129) 
lO1/?  M.  —  The  Wisperthal  is  unenviably  known  for  the  keen  'Wisperwind\ 
which  blows  through  it  towards  the  Rhine. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Salter^  which  unites  with  the  Wisper  */<  M.  above 
Lorch,  is  the  Sauerburg,  41/*  M.  from  Lorch  or  Caub,  once  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  Sickingen  family,  and  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  The 
last  direct  descendant  of  Franz  von  Sickingen  died  in  great  poverty  in  the 
neighbouring  farmhouse  in  1836.  In  the  churchyard  at  Sauerthal  is  a 
cross  with  the  Sickingen  arms  and  an  inscription,  erected  -by  a  friend  of 
German  history'. 

The  E.  bank  of  the  river  from  Lorch  to  Assmannshausen  .is  un- 
interesting. The  hills  rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  their  lower 
slopes  being  covered  with  vineyards  and  their  summits  with  wood. 
At  the  mouth  of  a  ravine  on  this  bank  are  the  vineyards  which 
yield  the  Bodenthaler  wine. 

r.  Niederheimbach  (rail.  stat. ;  Schiffchen ;  Pfalzer  Hof),  a  long 


to  Mayenee.  RHEIN STEIN.  17,  Routt.     113 

village,  commanded  by  the  massive  tower  of  Holmeek,  or  Heimburf , 
a  castle  of  the  13th  and  14th  cent.,  recently  restored,  next  comes  in 
view.  Travellers  ascending  the  river  and  intending  to  visit  the 
Morgenbachthal,  the  Rheinstein  (1  hr.),  Assmannshausen,  and  the 
Niederwald  (comp.  p.  122)  had  better  disembark  here.  Extensive 
retrospect  as  far  as  Bacharaoh.  Ascent  of  the  8aUkopf,  see  p.  126. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  slightly  contracts.  On  the  right 
rises  the  slender  tower  of  'Sgojuttk,  commanding  the  entrance  to  a 
ravine.  The  castle,  built  by  Archbishop  Willigis  of  Mayenee 
aboot  1015,  was  destroyed  by  King  Rudolph  as  a  robbers'  strong- 
hold ,  but  rebuilt  in  the  14th  century.  The  ruin,  which  has  been 
restored  since  1834,  now  belongs  to  the  German  emperor. 

r.  TreehWngahausen  (rail.  stat. ;  Stern).  On  an  eminence  beyond 
the  village  rises  the  Reichensttin,  or  FsJkenburg ,  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1689.  In  1252  this  marauders'  castle  was  destroyed  by  the 
confederation  of  Rhenish  towns,  but  restored  in  1261  by  its  owner, 
Philip  von  Hohenfels,  who  resumed  his  lawless  calling.  Rudolph  of 
Hapsburg  afterwards  besieged  and  dismantled  it,  and  relentlessly 
consigned  to  the  gallows  the  robbers  whom  he  found  in  possession. 
Its  present  owner  has  caused  the  ruin  to  be  restored. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  entrance  to  the  *Horgaabaeht*al,  which 
to  a  distance  of  about  1  M.  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  lateral  valleys  of 
the  Rhine.  Just  above  the  mill  a  path  to  the  left  ascends  in  •/«  hr.  to  the 
Swiss  House  mentioned  below.  —  From  Trechtlingshanaen  to  the  BaUtopf 
by  the  Jagerhaus,  see  p.  126. 


On  the  right  we  next  observe  the  venerable 
a  small  late-Romanesque  edifice,  lately  restored  by  the  Prin- 
cess Frederick  of  Prussia.  The  history  of  the  church  is  unknown, 
but  it  is  on  record  that  it  was  once  visited  by  Emp.  Maximilian  I. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  by  the  knights  of  Waldeck  to  en* 
sure  the  souls'  peace  of  the  robber-knights  slain  or  hanged  by  Ru- 
dolph of  Hapsburg.  The  choir-stalls  in  the  interior  are  late-Gothic. 

A  little  above  the  church ,  on  the  same  bank ,  rises  the  pictur- 
esque castle  of  *iiiiAiii|tfiii.  262  ft.  above  the  Rhine.  It  was 
formerly  called  the  Faitzberg,  VauUberg,  or  Voigtaberg.  Its  origin  is 
unknown,  but  it  is  mentioned  as  early  as  1279,  and  after  1348  was 
frequently  a  residence  of  Kuno  von  Falkenstein ,  Archbishop  of 
Treves,  since  whose  time  it  has  disappeared  from  the  pages  of 
history.  In  1825-29  Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia  caused  the  oastle 
to  be  restored  in  the  medieval  style,  and  he  was  afterwards  (d.  1863) 
interred  in  the  chapel  on  the  S.  side.  Rheinstein  is  a  very  inter- 
esting example  of  a  medieval  oastle,  of  which  the  massive  pinnacled 
towers  called  the  'Bergfriede',  the  'Herrenhaus',  or  'Palas',  and  the 
substantial  'Schildmauer'  on  the  side  exposed  to  attack  are  well 
represented.  A  'Collection  of  armour  and  antiquities  is  shown  in 
the  interior.  The  view  from  the  castle  as  well  as  from  the  Swiss 
House  on  the  height  towards  the  S.  is  limited  (adm.  1  m.,  a  party 
50  pf.  each,  for  20  or  more  visitors  30  pf .  each). 

Baedbkkr's  Rhine.  8th  Edit.  8 


114     Route  17.        ASSMANNSHAUSEN.  From CobUnz 

1.  A— pfjfcwti^h^ff* « -  —  Hotel*.  "Krone,  'pens'.  6m.,  good  wine* 
*  Ararat,  4pena\  5Vsm.,  Reutbbsban,  Gkkmania,  all  on  the  Rhine;  Nik- 
derwald,  in  the  village,  second-class.  —  *Cubhaus,  on  the  Rhine,  R.  from 
^/tm,,  board  5  m.,  baths  2-3  m.    Bath  physician,  Dr.  Mahr. 

Asdtnannshauscn  (262  ft.),  a  village  with  960  inhab.,  is  cele- 
brated for  its  full-bodied  and  high-flavoured  red  wine,  the  better 
vintages  of  which  are  preferred  by  some  connoisseurs  to  Burgundy, 
and  realise  high  prices.  A  warm  alkaline  spring  (90°)  here,  con- 
taining lithia,  which  was  known  as  far  back  as  the  Roman  period, 
has  recently  again  come  into  vogue  for  baths.  Assmannshausen  is 
the  best  starting-point  for  an  excursion  to  the  Niederwald  (see 
p.  122),  and  affords  opportunity  for  many  other  pleasant  walks  and 
drives. 

Beyond  Assmannshausen  the  steamboat  reaches  the  Binger  Loch, 
a  rapid  caused  by  the  narrowness  of  the  rocky  channel ,  the  widen- 
ing of  which  has  been  the  work  of  ages ,  from  the  Roman  period 
down  to  1330-32 ,  when  the  last  blasting  operations  took  place. 
The  completion  of  the  work  is  commemorated  by  a  monument  on 
the  W.  bank.  The  passage  is  now  free  from  danger,  but  in  descend- 
ing the  larger  rafts  require  to  be  piloted  with  extreme  caution. 

Above  the  rapids  rises  the  tower  of  (l.)Ehrenfels,  erected  about 
1210  by  Philipp  von  Bolanden ,  governor  of  the  Rheingau,  the  fre- 
quent residence  of  the  archbishops  of  Mayence  in  the  15th  cent., 
much  damaged  by  the  Swedes  in  1635 ,  and  finally  destroyed  by 
the  French  in  1689.  The  two  towers  are  connected  by  a  lofty  wall 
en  the  side  exposed  to  attack,  facing  the  hill. 

The  steep  slopes  of  the  Rudeshcimcr  Berg  yield  the  excellent 
wine  of  that  name ,  and  terrace  rises  above  terrace  to  secure  the 
soil  from  falling.  The  hill  is  completely  covered  with  walls  and 
arches ,  the  careful  preservation  of  which  conveys  an  idea  of  the 
value  of  the  vines.  According  to  tradition ,  Charlemagne  observed 
from  his  palace  at  Ingelheim  thai  the  snow  always  melted  first  on 
the  Rudesheimer  Berg ,  and  therefore  caused  vines  to  be  brought 
from  Orleans  and  planted  here. 

Opposite  the  castle,  on  a  quartz-rock  in  the  middle  of  the  Rhine, 
is  situated  the  House  Tower,  which  is  popularly  said  to  derive  its 
name  from  the  well-known  legend  of  the  cruel  Archbishop  Hatto  of 
Mayence.  Having  caused  a  number  of  poor  people,  whom  he  com- 
pared to  mice  bent  on  devouring  the  corn,  to  be  burned  in  a  barn 
during  a  famine,  he  was  immediately  attacked!  by  mice,  which  tor- 
mented him  day  and  night.  He  then  sought  refuge  on  this  island, 
but  was  followed-  by  his  persecutors,  and  soon  devoured  alive.  The 
tower,  however,  was  in  reality  erected  in  the  middle  ages  as  a 
watch-tower,  and  the  name  is  derived  from  the  old  German  Snuaen', 
to  spy.  In  1856  the  ruins  were  again  converted  into  a  kind  of  watch- 
tower,  fa*  making  signals  to  steamers,  whtoh  in  descending  the  river 
are  required  to  slacken  speed  here  when  other  vessels  are  coming 
up  the  stream. 


to  Mayence.  B1NGEN.  17.  Route.     115 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  now  suddenly  expands,  and  the  district 
of  the  Rheingau,  which  was  once  in  all  probability  a  lake,  is  enter- 
ed. Below  (r.)  Bingen  the  Nahe  unites  with  the  Rhine.  Bridges 
over  the  Nahe,  and  stations  of  the  Rhenish  and  Rhine  -  Nahe  lines 
at  Bingerbruck,  see  p.  125.  The  steamers  do  not  touch  at  Binger- 
bruck. Nearly  opposite  Bingen,  near  the  £.  bank,  is  the  iMuhl- 
•tetn',  a  quartz- rock  in  the  Rhine  marked  with  a  black  cross,  in 
which  the  heart  of  the  Rhenish  historian  Vogt  (d.  1836)  was  de- 
posited by  his  own  desire. 

r.  Bingen.  —  Hotels.  Hd«L  Victobia,  nearest  the  station,  and  Wbis- 
sr8  Ross,  both  on  the  Rhine;  Bxllkvub,  also  on  the  Rhine,  R.  &  B.  3, 
D.  2  m.;  Goldnek  Ptluo,  near  the  market-place.  —  Emouschxr  Hop, 
Mainzer  Strasse;  Kabpfek,  on  the  Rhine;  Pariskr  Hof,  Gaustrasse,  near 
the  Xahe;  Dkutschbs  Ha  us,  R.  l'/jm.,  and  Dibtbl,  well  spoken  of,  both 
on  the  Rhine,  moderate;  Obrkania.  —  Hotel  Habtmann,  see  p.  116.  — 
At  Bingerbruck:  Hotbl  Gbbhania,  near  the  station,  indifferent.  —  Cafi 
Soherr,  with  restaurant,  in  the  market-place ;  ffeilmann,  confectioner  with 
cafe,  on  the  Rhine.  Good  wine  at  the  old  Gasthcfsum  Rttpperttberg,  */<  M. 
from  Bingerbruck  station,  with  a  terrace  and  view.  Beer  at  the  Actien- 
brauerei,  with  a  garden,  in  the  town. 

Steam  Terry  Boat  CTrajecf)  from  Bingen  and  BingerbrUck  to  Rtidetheim 
(p.  116),  making  about  16  trips  in  each  direction  daily  (fares  20,  10  pf.) ; 
on  Sundays  and  holidays  extra  trips  to  Assmannshausen,  Rheinstein,  etc. 

Boats.  To  the  Hausethurm,  1-2  pers.  IV2  mM  each  additional  pers. 
25  pf. ;  to  Rheinstein  and  Assmannshausen,  see  p.  122. 

Carriage*.  To  the  Roehuscapelle,  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  3>/i,  3-4  pers. 
4  m.;  two-horse  4  or  6  m. ;  to  the  Scharlachkopf,  one-horse  t  or  6  m., 
two-horse  5  or  6  m. ;  to  Rheinstein  and  back,  one-horse  6  or  7  m.,  two* 
horse  7  or  8  m. 

Railway  to  Mayence  and  Cdblenty  see  R.  19;  to  Kreutnach  and  Saar- 
brucken,  see  R.  23. 

Bingen,  a  Hessian  district  town  with  6500  inhab.,  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Nahe  and  Rhine,  was  known  to  the  Romans, 
who  erected  a  castle  here,  at  the  point  whence  their  military  roads 
to  Cologne  and  Treves  diverged.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  a 
free  town  of  the  empire  and  one  of  the  earliest  members  of  the 
confederation  of  Rhenish  towns  (p.  13d).  During  the  Thirty  Years' 
War  it  was  repeatedly  captured,  and  in  1689  it  was  totally  destroyed 
by  the  French.  Bingen  carries  on  a  considerable  wine-trade  and  a 
busy  river  and  railway-traffic.  The  late-Gothic  PfarrkUrche  of  the 
15th  cent,  with  a  Romanesque  crypt  of  the  11th,  has  been  modern- 
ised. The  Gothic  foot  is  of  the  15th.  century.  The  Bathhaus  was 
restored  in  1863  in  the  medieval  style. 

Above  the  town,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Roman  fortress,  rises 
the  castle  of  *Xlopp,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689, 
bat  has  been  tastefully  restored  and  extended.  The  towers  afford  a 
beautiful  view.  Bell  at  the  door  (fee).  Roads  and  footpaths  ascend 
to  it  both  from  the  Rhine  (diverging  from  the  Rochus-Strasse  beyond 
the  Englischer  Hof)  and  from  the  Nahe  (diverging  from  the  Schloss- 
Strasse  beyond  the  Pariser  Hof). 

The  finest  points  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Bingen  arethefiocAus- 
eapeUe  (E.)  and  the  Scharlachkopf  (S.E.) ,  each  about  4/i  at.  from 

8* 


116    Route  17.  RUDESHEIM.  From  Gobleni 

the  town.  In  order  to  reach  the  Rochuscapelle  we  ascend  the  street 
at  the  back  of  the  Englischer  Hof ,  and  pass  the  Cemetery,  which 
contains  monuments  in  memory  of  Napoleon's  veterans  and  of  the 
campaign  of  1870-71.  Near  the  lower  entrance  is  a  tombstone 
with  an  epitaph  in  verse,  beginning  'Wohl  auch  die  still e  Haus- 
lichkeit',  and  containing  an  equivoque  which  will  amuse  the  visitor 
who  understands  German.  The  complimentary  tenor  of  the  in- 
scription as  a  whole  is  contradicted  by  that  of  the  initial  words 
when  read  by  themselves.  From  the  upper  gate  of  the  cemetery 
we  reach  the  *H6tel  Hartmann,  with  a  terrace,  commanding  a  fine 
view,  in  !/4  hr.,  and  thence  follow  the  road  on  the  margin  of  the 
Rochusberg,  which  leads  to  the  chapel  in  5  min.  more. 

The  ^Rochuscapelle ,  a  chapel  on  the  E.  brow  of  the  Rochus- 
berg, which  descends  abruptly  to  the  Rhine ,  stands  341  ft.  above 
the  river,  and  commands  a  noble  prospect.  It  was  founded  in  1666 
at  the  time  of  the  plague,  destroyed  in  1795,  and  restored  in  1814. 
The  interior  contains  a  representation  of  St.  Roch  leaving  his  dis- 
mantled palace,  painted  in  commemoration  of  the  restoration  of 
the  chapel,  and  presented  by  Goethe  and  others.  At  the  festival  of 
St.  Roch  (first  Sunday  after  16th  Aug.) ,  charmingly  described  by 
Goethe,  thousands  of  persons  congregate  here  and  celebrate  certain 
solemnities ,  to  which  open-air  dances,  music,  and  the  ringing  of 
glasses  form  a  lively  sequel.  At  the  base  of  the  Rochusberg  is  the 
imposing  country-house  of  Prince  William  of  Hessen-Philippsthal- 
Barchfeld,  with  a  large  veranda. 

From  the  Hotel  Hartmann  a  good  road  leads  along  the  N.W. 
brow  of  the  hill  to  the  Scharlachkopf,  1  M.  to  the  S.W.,  the  S. 
slopes  of  which,  situated  in  the  district  of  Budesheim,  yield  the 
fiery  Scharlachberger,  the  best  of  the  Nahe  wines.  A  fine  view  of  the 
valley  of  the  Nahe  is  obtained  from  a  pavilion  near  the  summit. 

The  old  Bridge  over  the  Nahe,  with  its  seven  arches,  Y2  M- 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  was  constructed  by  Archbishop  Willigis 
on  the  foundations  of  the  old  Roman  bridge,  and  was  afterwards 
repeatedly  restored.  Below  the  bridge  is  a  plain  Romanesque 
chapel,  with  a  semicircular  apse  at  the  £.  end,  which  may  be 
entered  from  a  house  on  the  right  bank.  The  Nahe  here  forms  the 
boundary  between  Hessen-Darmstadt  and  Prussia.  The  traveller 
proceeding  to  the  Bingerbruck  station  may  visit  the  'Rondel'  on  his 
way,  by  following  the  Hunsrucken  road  to  the  left,  past  the  first 
houses  at  the  top  of  the  hill  (comp.  p.  125).  —  Elisen-Hohe  and 
Salzkopf,  see  p.  125. 

On  the  £.  bank,  nearly  opposite  Bingen,  lies  Rudesheim,  of 
wine-growing  celebrity. 

1.  Rudesheim.  —  Hotels.  *Dabm8tadteb  Hof,  R.  from  2-3,  B.  1,  D. 
2l/2  m.,  good  wines;  *Juno,  at  the  station,  R.  from  i'/im. ;  *Rheinbtbin,  R. 
from  lVa,  B.  1,  D.  2>/»  m.  s  Bellevub;  H6tel  Kbass;  Massmank;  Ehr- 
hard  ;  Tbadbe,  all  on  the  Rhine. 

Restaurants  at  the  station  and  the  Rheinhalle,    opposite,   with  view. 


to  Mayence.  RfJDESHEIM.  1 7.  Boute.     117 

—  Wine  at  the  Rildesheimer  Winter  Verein,  Drosselgasse,  at  Joseph  Mai- 
ler'*, etc. 

Carriages,  Horses,  and  Donkeys  to  the  Niederwald,  gee  p.  122;  carr. 
with  two  horses  to  Schloss  Johannisberg  6,  there  and  back  9  m.,  via 
Schloss  Johannisberg  to  Oestrich  10  m. 

Steam  Ferry  Boat  to  Bingen,  starting  from  Rudesheim  at  half-past 
every  hour,  from  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  fare  20  pf.  \  to  Bingerbr&ck, 
from  the  station  at  Rudesheim  in  connection  with  the  trains.  Small  boat 
from  Rudesheim  to  Bingen  or  Bingerbriick,  1-3  persons  2  m. ;  for  each 
additional  person  30  pf.,  trunk  10  pf.    See  also  p.  122. 

Rudesheim  (256  ft.),  a  district-town  with  3600  inhab.,  most  of 
whom  live  by  tbe  culture  of  the  vine,  lies  in  a  sunny  situation  at 
the  S.  base  of  tbe  Niederwald  (p.  122),  at  the  point  where  the 
valley  of  the  Rhine  expands  into  the  broad  basin  of  the  Rheingau. 
The  celebrated  wine  of  the  place  can  boast  the  longest  pedigree  on 
the  Rhine,  though  some  of  its  brethren  of  the  Rheingau  are  now 
considered  superior.  The  best  sorts  are  yielded  by  the  vineyards  be- 
hind the  town,  called  the  Hinterhaus,  the  Rottland,  close  to  the  sta- 
tion, and  those  of  the  Berg  extending  below  the  town  to  Ehrenfels. 
The  Gothic  Roman  Catholic  Church,  built  in  1390-1400,  has  a 
vaulting  of  interesting  construction  and  contains  some  ancient 
tombstones.  The  Protestant  Church  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town 
was  built  in  1855.  A  brisk  river  and  railway-traffic  is  carried  on 
here,  and  there  is  a  spacious  harbour  above  the  town  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  vessels  in  winter  (comp.  Map,  p.  124). 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  station,  rises  the  Brdm- 
serburg,  or  properly  the  Niederburg,  the  property  of  Count  Ingel- 
heim,  a  massive  rectangular  structure,  108  ft.  long,  70  ft.  broad,  and 
64ft.  high.  The  three  vaulted  stories  belong  to  the  12th  cent.,  when 
they  were  built  with  the  remains  of  an  earlier  edifice.  In  the  centre 
is  a  small  well-like  court  (described  by  Goethe  in  1814).  The  castle 
was  originally  the  seat  of  the  Knights  of  Rudesheim,  who  in  1282 
were  compelled  to  become  vassals  of  the  Archbishop  of  Mayence  as  a 
punishment  for  brigandage.  Down  to  the  14th  cent,  it  was  fre- 
quently occupied  by  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence,  who  afterwards 
preferred  the  more  modern  Ehrenfels.  Part  of  it  was  destroyed  in 
1640.  The  interior  has  been  restored  and  handsomely  fitted  up  by 
the  Counts  of  Ingelheim.  Near  the  castle  is  the  Stammhaus  der 
Browser,  or  ancestral  residence  of  the  Bromsers,  a  knightly  family 
of  Rudesheim,  and  one  of  the  most  distinguished  on  the  Rhine, 
which  became  extinct  in  the  17th  century;  the  building,  with  a 
toweT  and  a  turret  at  the  side,  is  still  well  preserved,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  poor-house  and  asylum  for  children.  The  *Vorderburg\  a 
fragment  of  an  old  square  tower  near  the  market-place,  is  the  only 
relic  of  a  castle  belonging  to  the  same  family. 

The  Oberburg,  or  Boosenburg ,  an  old  tower  of  tapering  form  be- 
hind the  Bromserburg,  which  for  300  years  belonged  to  the  Counts 
Boos ,  is  now  the  property  of  a  wine-merchant. 

Pleasant  walk  of  IV2  hr.  to  the  Kammerforst,  a  forester's  house  (re- 
freshments), near  which  are  the  Teufeltk&derich  and  the  JAgerhorn,  two 


118     Route  27.  JOHANNISBERG.  From  Coblenz 

good  points  of  view.  From  the  Kammerforst  a  broad  track  leads  through  the 
woods  to  Lorch.  —  From  Riidesheim  to  the  ruin  of  EhrenfeU  (p.  114),  lfe  hr. 

At  Riidesheim  begins  the  *Rheingau,  a  rich  and  beautiful 
district,  which  produces  some  of  the  most  famous  and  costly  wines 
In  the  world.  The  name  is  now  applied  to  the  tract  on  the  E.  (here 
N.)  bank  of  the  Rhine  between  Rudesheim  and  Niederwalluf,  about 
12  M.  in  length  and  5  M.  in  breadth.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Archbishopric  of  Mayenoe  and  extended  down  the  river  as  far  as 
Lorch.  It  was  once  completely  enclosed  by  the  iOebi*ck\  a  densely 
interwoven  and  impenetrable  belt  of  trees  about  50  paces  in  width. 

A  *Walk  through  the  Rheingau  may  be  taken  as  follows.  From. 
Eltville  to  (2V4  M.)  KiedHch  (p.  117),  and  then  past  the  large  lunatic 
asylum  of  Eichberg  to  (3  M.)  Eberbach:  thence  over  the  Bos  and  past 
the  Steinberg  to  (2y4  H.)  Hallgarten,  and  via  Schlos*  Vollraths  to  (3M.) 
Johanniiberg ;  then  back  to  the  Rhine  at  (iy«  M.)  Qeuenheim.  An  ex- 
cursion should  also  be  made  from  Eltville  to  the  Bubenhduser  Ebhe  and 
Rauenthal  (see  p.  128). 

After  passing  Kempten  and  (rail.  8 tat.)  Oaulsheim,  we  reach  — 

1.  Geisenheim  (^Frankfurter  Hof,  R.  &  B.  ^^m.,  also  'pens.', 
good  'Wine;  Qermania),  a  pleasant  little  town  with.  2900inhab., 
mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  8th  century,  and  now  boasting 
of  a  number  of  country-houses  and  handsome  buildings.  The  late- 
Gothic  Church,  completed  in  1510,  has  a  conspicuous  portal,  and 
open  towers  of  red  sandstone  added  by  Hoffmann  in  1838.  The 
Rathhaus  was  erected  in  1856.  At  the  E.,  or  upper,  entrance  to  the 
town  is  the  residence  of  Count  Schdnborn,  and  at  the  W.  end  is  the 
villa  of  Consul  von  Lade,  with  an  interesting  garden  and  orchards. 
Near  the  station  is  the  Pomologieal  Institution,  recently  founded  by 
government,  which  should  be  inspected  by  persons  interested  in 
the  cultivation  of  fruit.  The  wine  of  Geisenheim,  particularly  the 
Rothenberger,  is  highly  esteemed. 

On  the  hill  behind  Geisenheim ,  near  Eibingen ,  rises  the  old  nunnery 
of  that  name,  founded  in  1148,  secularised  in  1802,  and  used  as  an  arsenal 
down  to  1835.  The  church  has  since  been  restored  to  its  sacred  uses. 
Farther  to  the  N.E.  are  the  remains  of  the  monastery  of  Nothgottes  (Agonia 
Domini),  consecrated  in  1890,  now  a  farm.  About  */«  M.  farther  N.  C2Vi  M. 
from  Riidesheim)  is  the  monastery  of  MarientJial,  now  suppressed,  pictur- 
esquely situated  among  woods. 

*  SchloBB  Johannisberg ,  a  conspicuous  point  in  the  landscape, 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  vine- clad  eminence,  341  ft.  above  the 
Rhine,  may  be  reached  in  V2  hr.  by  a  good  road  either  from  Geisen- 
heim or  from  Winkel  (see  below).  The  extensive  chateau  with  its 
two  wings  was  erected  in  1757-59  by  the  Prince- Abbot  of  Fulda, 
on  the  site  of  an  old  Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Ruthard  in  1106.  The  abbey-church  was  rebuilt  in  1717- 
30.  In  1802,  on  the  suppression  of  the  Abbey  of  Fulda  (which  pur- 
chased the  'Berg'  from  Mayence  in  1716),  the  castle  became  the 
property  of  the  Prince  of  Orange,  in  1807  it  was  presented  by  Na- 
poleon to  Marshal  Kellermann,  and  in  1816  it  was  conferred  by  the 
Emp.  of  Austria  as  an  imperial  fief  on  Prince  Clemens  of  Metter- 
nich,  who  did  not  fully  recognise  the  sovereignty  of  the  Duke  of 


toMayence.  OESTRICH.  17.  Bottle.     119 

Nassau  till  1851.  Hi*  ion,  Prince  Richard  Metternlch,  It  the  pre- 
sent proprietor.  The  far-famed  vineyards  (oomp.  p.  xxi),  in  area 
about  40  acres,  yielding,  in  good  years,  an  income  of  8000*.,  are 
most  carefully  cultivated,  and  take  the  lead  among  the  vineyards  of 
the  Rhine,  although  of  late  years  there  has  been  a  great  rivalry  be- 
tween the  wines  of  Johannisberg  and  Steinberg  (p.  120).  Visitors 
are  not  admitted  to  the  Interior  of  the  chateau.  (Good  Johannis- 
berger  at  the  restaurant,  from  8  to  36  m.  per  bottle.)  The  Chapel  of 
the  chateau,  consecrated  in  1190,  and  now  completely  modernised, 
contains  the  tomb  of  the  Rhenish  historian  Nicholas  Vogt  (d.  1896; 
eomp.  p.  115),  the  tutor  of  Prince  Metternlch.  The  balcony  of  the 
chateau  commands  a  very  striking  view,  hut  visitors  are  only  ad- 
mitted when  the  family  is  absent.  —  On  the  Hanselberg,  a  hill 
lower  down  the  Rhine,  a  little  below  Johannisberg,  is  the  villa  of 
Consul  Bauer  of  Moscow. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  Schloss  we  reach  Serf  Johannis- 
berg {^Mehtetj  also  a  'pension'),  with  an  establishment  for  nervous 
patients,  and  beyond  it  Johannisberg  im  Orund  (*Kauter),  a  village 
with  an  extensive  machine-factory,  whence  we  may  now  descend  to 
the  railway.  Near  the  latter  village,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schloss,  lies 
the  lKlausc\  the  remains  of  a  nunnery  founded  by  Rucholf,  the 
brother-in-law  of  Archbishop  Ruthard  (see  p.  118),  and  suppressed 
in  1452. 

1.  Winkel  (Rheingauer  Hof,  withrgarden ;  Doting)  and  Mitlel- 
heim  (Ruthmann's  Inn)  together  form  one  long  street,  so  long  that 
Goethe  has  described  it  as  very  trying  to  the  patience.  At  the  W. 
extremity  is  situated  the  country-house  of  Hcrr  Brentano,  mention- 
ed along  with  Goethe  in  Bettina  von  Arnim's  'Correspondence  of  a 
Child',  where  memorials  of  the  poet  are  still  preserved. 

At  (1.)  Oestrich  f+Steinheimer,  on  the  Rhine ;  Kramer)  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Rheingau  formerly  swore  fealty  to  the  newly  elected 
Archbishops  of  Mayence,  who  came  here  for  the  purpose ,  but  were 
obliged  first  to  confirm  the  privileges  of  the  people.  The  village  with 
its  projecting  crane,  and  Johannisberg  in  the  background ,  forms  a 
picturesque  tableau.  Near  the  railway  stands  the  pretty  villa  of 
Herr  von  Stoseh,  the  Prussian  minister. 

On  the  slope  behind  Oestrich  lies  HaUgartea,  in  the  midst  of  Tine- 
yards  ;  near  it  is  the  well-preserved  chateau  of  Vollratht.  probably  erected 
in  136Q  by  a  member  of  the  Oreiffenklau  family ,  in  whose  possession  it 
still  is.  Above  Hallgarten  rises  the  Hallgarter  Zange  (690  ft.),  a  beautiful 
point  of  view. 

Before  reaching  (1.)  Hattenheim  (Ress;  beer  at  Noll's),  a  vil- 
lage with  extensive  cellars  for  the  storage  of  wine,  the  road  passes 
Schloss  ReicharUhauaen,  in  a  small  park,  1  M.  from  Oestrich,  the 
seat  of  the  Countess  ifenkendorf. 

Between  Hattenheim  and  Erbach  lie  the  islands  of  Sandau, 
connected  with  the  left  bank,  and  Westfalische  Au,  or  Rheinau. 
To  the  left  of  the   road   between   these    villages  is    the  Marco- 


120    Route  17.  ELTVILLE.  From  CobUnz 

brunnen  ('boundary-well') ,  near  which  are  the  vineyards  yielding 
Marcobrunner,  one  of  the  most  highly  prized  Rhenish  "wines,  and 
ehiefly  belonging  to  Count  Sohonborn. 

1.  Erbftch  (*Engel;  WaUfUeh;  Naasauer  Hof),  mentioned  in 
history  as  early  as  980,  is  partially  concealed  from  the  steamboat- 
passenger  by  the  island  of  Rhtmau ,  1  lfa  M.  in  length.  At  the  W. 
end  of  the  village  is  the  chateau  of  Reinkartshausen ,  the  property 
of  the  Princess  Marianne  of  the  Netherlands ,  containing  a  •Col- 
lection of  pictures  and  sculptures ;  adm.  from  1st  May  to  1st  Oct. 
on  week-days,  10-5  (1  m.,  for  a  charitable  object). 

A  broad  path  leads  inland  from  Erbach  to  the  (2Va  M.)  once  celebrated 
and  richly  endowed  Cistercian  Abbey  of  Eberbach,  founded  in  1116,  erect- 
ed into  an  abbey  by  St.  Bernard  of  Clairvaux  in  1131,  and  situated  in 
one  of  those  sequestered  valleys  which  this  order  always  selected  for 
their  monasteries.  ('Bernardus  valles,  monies  Benedictus  amabat,  oppida 
Franciscus,  celebres  Ignatius  urbes/) 

The  Abbey,  secularised  in  1803,  and  now  used  as  a  House  of  Cor- 
rection, was  erected  at  various  periods  from  the  12th  to  the  15th  century. 
The  Bomanesque  Abbey  Church,  consecrated  in  1186,  recently  restored, 
contains  a  number  of  "Monuments,  most  of  them  of  abbots  of  the  12th-18tn 
century.  The  Gothic  monument  which  encloses  the  tombs  of  Oerlach, 
Archbishop  of  Mayence  (d.  1371),  and  Adolph  II.  of  Nassau  (d.  1474), 
particularly  deserves  inspection.  The  Refectory  of  the  13th  cent.,  now- 
occupied  by  wine-presses,  the  Gothic  Chapter  House  of  the  close  of  the 
14th  cent,  (restored),  the  large  Dormitory  (partly  altered),  and  a  part  of 
the  cloisters  which  is  still  preserved  are  all  deserving  of  notice.  The 
vaults  below  these  buildings  are  used  as  wine-cellars.  The  important 
wine-auctions  which  take  place  here  every  spring  are  attended  by  all  the 
most  noted  Rhenish  wine-merchants. 

Close  to  the  abbey  is  the  celebrated  Steinberg  vineyard ,  60  acres  in 
area,  which  was  carefully  cultivated  by  the  industrious  monks  of  Eber- 
bach from  the  12th  to  the  19th  century,  and  is  now  the  property  of 
government.  The  vines  are  tended  with  even  greater  care  than  those 
on  the  Johannisberg,  and  their  produce  is  not  less  highly  esteemed.  The 
*Bos  (an  old  word  for  'hi IF),  an  eminence  close  to  the  monastery,  875  ft. 
above  the  sea-level,  commands  a  magnificent  prospect,  embracing  the 
Steinberg  vineyard.  To  the  E.  of  the  Eberbach  valley,  conspicuously 
situated  on  a  hill,  is  the   extensive  Lunatic  Asylum  of  Eichberg. 

1.  Eltville  (290  ft. ;  *ffitel  Reiscnbach,  in  the  town,  Rhembahn 
Hdtel,  at  the  station,  belonging  to  the  same  landlord,  R.  l1^-^  m., 
B.  70  pf. ;  restaurants  at  the  MainztrHof,  Bahnhof-Str.,  and  Crats's 
in  the  town;  Burg  Crass,  see  below),  or  Elfcld,  with  2800  inhab., 
was  once  the  capital  of  the  Bheingau.  The  German  king  Gunther 
of  Schwarzburg  resigned  his  dignity  here  in  1349,  when  besieged 
and  hard  pressed  by  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  In  the  14th  and 
15th  cent.  Eltville  was  a  residence  of  the  Archbishops  of  Mayence, 
to  which  they  often  resorted  to  escape  from  civic  broils.  As  early 
as  1465  a  printing-press ,  established  by  Gutenberg  himself  after 
the  unfortunate  termination  of  his  lawsuit  with  Fust,  was  in  active 
operation  here ,  twenty-five  years  only  after  the  invention  of  the 
art.  The  handsome  and  lofty  watch-tower,  tfearing  the  arms  of  the 
founder,  with  the  adjoining  castle-wall,  is  all  that  now  remains  of 
a  castle  erected  in  1330  by  Baldwin,  Archbishop  of  Treves,  at  that 
time  governor  of  Mayence.    The  church-tower  belongs  to  the  same 


to  Mayenee.  BIEBRICH.  17.  Route.     121 

date.  The  church  contains  a  Renaissance  monument.  In  and  about 
the  town  are  a  number  of  villas  and  country-houses  which  give  a 
handsome  appearance  to  the  place;  that  of  Count. Elta,  in  the 
Haupt-Strasse,  in  the  German  Renaissance  style,  is  among  the 
most  imposing.  Omnibus  and  diligence  to  Schlangenbad  and 
Schwalbach,  see  p.  128. 

A  charming  excursion  may  be  made  from  Eltrille  to  the  (*/i  hr.) 
"Bvbenhdttser  HShe  and  (1  hr.)  Rauenthal;  comp.  p.  128. 

About  l*/4  M.  to  the  U. W. ,  concealed  amidst  vine-clad  hills ,  lies  the 
large  village  of  Xiedrieh  (*Engel;  *Kron*)y  a  great  resort  of  pilgrims.  The 
Gothic  church  of  St.  Valentine,  and  the  chapel  of  "St.  Michael,  erected 
in  1440  in  the  ornate  late -Gothic  style,  restored  in  1868,  merit  a  visit 
Near  Kiedrich  is  the  Qrdfenberg,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  vineyards  of 
the  Rheingau;  it  is  crowned  by  the  castle  of  Sehar/enstein,  which  was 
erected  by  the  Archbishops  of  Mayenee  at  the  close  of  the  12th  cent, 
dismantled  by  the  Swedes  in  1632,  and  finally  by  the  French  in  1682.  — 
Kiedrich  is  l»/a  M.  from  Eberbach  (p.  120). 

Beyond  Eltville  several  more  villas  are  passed,  the  most  conspi- 
cuous of  which  are  Burg  Crass,  with  a  large  garden-restaurant,  Villa 
Rheihberg,  and  the  Steinheimer  Hof,  the  last  belonging  to  the  Duke 
of  Nassau.  The  island  opposite,  called  the  Eltviller  Au,  is  occupied 
by  a  large  farm.  The  church-tower  of  Rauenthal  (p.  128)  is  visible 
on  the  hills  in  the  background. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rhine  is  Budenheim  (p.  126). 

1.  HiederwaJluf  (*Schwanf  good  wine,  *Gartenfeld,  both  with 
gardens;  *Zur  Schonen  Aussicht,  at  the  station),  a  place  with  1000 
inhabM  mentioned  as  early  as  770,  lies  at  the  upper  extremity  of 
the  rich  wine-district  of  the  Rheingau  (p.  118).  The  road  from 
Niederwalluf  to  Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach  unites  A  Neudorf 
with  the  high-road  from  Eltville  (p.  128). 

1.  Schierstein  (*Drei  Kronen ;  *Seibel),  an  old  village,  with  a 
manufactory  of  sparkling  wine  and  a  large  river-harbour  constructed 
in  1858,  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  orchard.  About  iy2  M.  in- 
land is  the  ruin  of  Frauenstein  with  the  village  (Weisses  Ross)  of 
that  name;  on  the  hill,  5  min.  to  the  E.  of  the  latter  stands  the 
Nurnberger  flof  (refreshments)  with  extensive  view. 

1.  Biebrich.  —  Hotels.  *Eubopaischer  Hof  ;  "Bellevuk,  with  a  gar- 
den-restaurant; Kbone;  all  with  gardens  and  terraces  on  the  Rhine;  Nas- 
saubx  Hof,  open  in  summer  only.    Beer  at  Wuth"s,  Kasernen-Str. 

Omnibus  to  Wiesbaden  on  the  arrival  of  some  of  the  steamboats, 
see  p.  181. 

Railway  Stations.  That  of  the  Taunus  Railway  (for  Castel  and  Frank- 
fort) lies  on  the  Rhine ;  that  of  the  Railway  of  the  Right  Bank  (Wiesbaden, 
the  Rheingau)  is  at  Hosbach  (p.  128),  near  the  N.E.  gate  of  the  park. 

Steamboat  to  Mayenee  (p.  196),  about  every  half-hour. 

Biebrich  (280  ft.),  which  with  Moshach  (p.  128)  now  forms  one 
town  of  8000  inhab.,  is  a  busy  place,  with  iron,  cloth,  glass,  and 
various  other  manufactories.  Down  to  the  Prussian  occupation  in 
1866  it  was  a  summer-residence  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau.  At  the 
upper  end  of  the  town  is  a  School  for  Non-commissioned  Officers, 
built  of  red  brick  as  a  barrack  in  1859,  and  at  the  lower  the  Palace 
of  Duke  Adolf  of  Nassau,  completed  in  1706  in  the  Renaissance 


122   Route  18.  NIEDERWALD. 

style.  The  extensive  and  well-kept  garden  and  *Park  abound  with 
beautiful  walks.  The  M oosburg,  a  miniature  castle  in  the  palace- 
garden,  built  in  1806  in  the  mediaeval  style,  occupies  the  site  of 
the  imperial  palace  of  Biburk,  where  Louis  the  German  resided  in 
874  (fee  40  pf .).  Near  the  pier  is  a  Monument  in  commemoration 
of  the  war  of  1870-71,  by  Hoffmann.  —  The  Elisabethenhohe,  near 
Curve  (p.  215),  a  hill  provided  with  benches,  affords  a  fine  -view  of 
Biebrich  and  the  Rhine. 

Beyond  Biebrich  the  steamboat  passes  between  two  islands ,  the 
Ingelheimcr  Au  on  the  right  and  the  Petersau  on  the  left.  On  the 
latter,  at  his  summer-residence ,  the  Emp.  Louis  the  Pious,  son 
and  successor  of  Charlemagne ,  expired  in  840.  His  body  was  con- 
veyed to  Metz  and  interred  there. 

The  steamboat-pier  at  Mayenoe  is  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town, 
below  the  bridge-of-boats,  and  */2  M«  from  the  railway -station, 
which  is  situated  on  the  Rhine  at  the  upper  end. 

Hayence,  see  Route  22. 

18.  The  Niederwald. 

See  Map,  p.  224. 

Tariffs  at  Rudesheim  and  Assmannshausen.  Donkey,  Mule,  or  Horse 
with  Guide  from  Eiidesheim  to  the  Temple  on  the  Niederwald  (or  from 
Assmannshausen  to  the  Jagdschloss)  1  m.  60,  1  m.  80  pf.,  or  2  m.  $  to  all 
the  points  of  view  and  the  Schloss  2  m.  80,  3  m.,  or  3  m.  50  pf.  -,  to  all 
the  points  of  view,  the  Jagdschloss,  and  Assmannshausen  (or  viee  versd, 
from  Assmannshausen  to  Rudesheim)  3,  31/?,  or  4  m.  —  Guide  alone,  3/<>  1, 
or  I72  m.  *-  Carriage  with  two  horses  from  Rudesheim  to  the  Niederwald 
and  Schloss  6 ,  there  and  back  9  m.,  or  descending  to  Assmannshausen 
11  mr;  the  same,  returning  along  the  Rhine,  13m.t  same  excursion  from 
Assmannshausen,  and  then  by  the  Johannisberg  to  Rvidesheim  17  m. 

Boat  from  Biidesheim  to  Rheinstein,  waiting  2  hrs.  at  the  castle,  and 
to  Assmannshausen,  5  m.;  to  Assmannshausen  alone  3  m.  —  From  Ass- 
mannshausen to  Rheinstein  1  m.  —  From  Bingen  to  Assmannshausen  1-6 
pers.  3  m.,  Rheinstein,  with  stay  of  2  hrs.,  and  Assmannshausen  5  m.  •, 
return  fare  one-half  more.  The  boatmen  are  provided  with  badges  ♦,  two 
must  always  be  in  each  boat;  want  of  respect  or  attempts  to  overcharge 
are  punishable. 

Plan.  Assmannshausen  (p.  114),  the  best  starting-point  owing  to  the 
greater  ease  of  the  ascent  and  the  more  gradual  and  striking  development 
of  the  views,  may  either  be  reached  by  railway  (R.  20)  or  boat  from 
Rudesheim,  or  by  boat  from  Bingen.  In  the  latter  case  the  Rheinstein 
(p.  113)  may  be  visited  by  the  way,  the  boatmen  waiting  while  the  trav- 
eller visits  the  castle.  (Or  the  Rheinstein  may  be  reached  from  Bingen 
on  foot  in  1  hr.)  From  Assmannshausen  on  foot  over  the  Niederwald  to 
Rudesheim  in  2  hrs.  (guide  unnecessary).  Riders  are  advised  to  take  their 
donkeys  or  horses  only  as  far  as  the  8chloss  and  there  dismiss  them,  as 
the  paths  through  the  wood  are  level  and  shady,  while  the  descent  to 
Rudesheim  is  unpleasant  for  riders.  The  vineyard-paths  are  closed  in 
September  and  October,  and  the  traveller  is  then  obliged  to  descend  by 
a  somewhat  circuitous  route. 

The  *iriederwald  (1083  ft.),  a  wooded  hill,  clothed  with 
vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes,  which  are  known  as  the  'Rudesheimer 
Berg',  and  rising  from  the  Rhine  at  the  point  where  the  river  quits 
the  Rheingau  and  suddenly  turns  towards  the  N. ,  vies  with  the 


NIEDERWALD.  IS.  Route,     123 

Drachenfels  as  a  point  of  attraction  to  excursionists,  and  command* 
a  noble  prospect  in  the  direction  of  M  aye  nee. 

AsamantMhausen ,  see  p.  114.  Leaving  the  Rhine,  we  follow 
the  street  leading  through  a  gateway  above  the  Anker  Hotel  and 
immediately  afterwards  passing  the  railway-station  (p.  127)  and 
then  the  church.  At  a  small  shrine,  */*  M.  from  Assmannshausen, 
the  new  bridle-path  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  cart-road  (which 
remains  in  the  valley) ,  and  ascends  in  windings  through  under- 
wood. In  72  hr.  more  we  reach  the  JagdsehlOM(/if otel  and  Petition, 
good  wine,  but  expensive),  a  shooting-lodge,  whioh  with  the  whole 
of  the  Niederwald  is  the  property  of  government.  —  The  cart-road 
in  the  ravine,  the  vine-clad  slopes  of  which  yield  the  celebrated  red 
wine  of  Assmannshausen,  ascends  gradually  to  (V2  hr>)  AulkauBcn, 
a  village  inhabited  by  potters  (near  it  the  suppressed  nunnery  of 
Marienkausen,  now  a  farm),  turns  to  the  right  at  the  ohurch,  and 
reaches  the  Jagdschloss  in  20  min.  more. 

Beyond  the  Jagdschloss  we  pass  the  *H6tel  &  Pension1  on  the 
left,  and  in  10  min.  reach  the  Zauberhohle  (boy  to  open  the  Zauber- 
hdhle  and  Rossel,  25  pf.),  or  (magio  cave1,  a  dark  passage ,  at  the 
end  of  which  there  is  a  semicircular  chamber  with  three  apertures 
commanding  views,  through  clearings  in  the  wood,  of  the  Clemens- 
kapelle,  the  Falkenburg,  and  Rheinstein. 

Five  min.  walk  farther  is  the  *Bossel  (1125  ft.  above  the  sea, 
880  ft.  above  the  river),  an  artificial  ruin  on  the  highest  point  of 
the  Niederwald,  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect:  to  the  W.  the 
valley  of  the  Nahe,  with  the  Donnersberg  and  Soonwald  in  the  back- 
ground ;  to  the  right  the  wooded  heights  of  the  Hun  snick.  Far  be- 
low, the  Rhine  rushes  through  the  Bingerloch,  past  the  ruin  of 
Ehrenfels  and  the  Mouse  Tower.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies  Bingen 
with  the  castle  of  Klopp,  sheltered  by  the  Rochusberg.  In  the  valley 
of  the  Nahe  are  numerous  villages,  extending  nearly  as  far  as  Kreuz- 
nach,  which,  however,  is  not  visible.  On  the  right,  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  rises  Rheinstein,  with  the  Swiss  house ;  farther 
down  stands  the  Clemenskapelle,  beyond  it  the  Falkenburg.  From 
the  Rossel  to  Rudesheim  1  */4  hr. 

From  the  Rossel  a  path  leads  S.E.  through  a  small  plantation 
of  pines  to  the  (12  min.)  Adolphshohe,  exactly  opposite  the  influx 
of  the  Nahe,  and  the  (10  min.)  Hermitage;  the  path  next  passes 
a  stone  seat ,  where  we  still  keep  to  the  right ,  and  leads  to  the 
(10  min.)  'Temple'.  A  few  min.  walk  to  the  S.  of  the  stone  seat  is 
a  footpath  leading  to  the  right  to  a  projecting  spur  of  the  hill ,  on 
which  a  *National  Monument,  by  Prof.  Schilling  of  Dresden,  is  being 
erected  in  commemoration  of  the  restoration  of  the  German  empire. 
The  foundation-stone  of  this  imposing  memorial  was  laid  by 
Emp.  William  in  1877,  and  the  handsome  architectural  basis,  78  ft. 
high,  and  part  of  the  sculptural  ornamentation  are  already  finished ; 
but  the  work  will  not  be  completed  till  the  end  of  1882.  The  figure 


124     Route  19.  BOPPARD.  From  Coblenz 

of  Germania  is  to  be  33  ft.  in  height.  The  cost  of  the  undertaking 
amounts  to  1,100,000  m.  The  adjacent  hut  contains  a  good  model 
of  the  monument  (20  pf.). 

The  *Temple  (1050  ft.  above  the  sea,  804  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
an  open  structure  borne  by  columns,  and  covered  with  a  dome, 
stands  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  and  commands  an  admirable  survey 
of  the  entire  Rheingau,  bounded  on  the  S.E.  by  the  Taunus  Mts.,  on 
the  S.-by  the  Meliboous,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  distant  Donnersberg. 

From  this  point  the  road  proceeds  to  the  left,  reaching  a  finger- 
post (5  min.),  whence  the  path  to  the  left  leads  to  Rudesheim  in 
72  hr.  The  steep  path  diverging  to  the  right  at  the  finger-post 
descends  through  vineyards,  and  leads  to  the  station  in  about  y^hr., 
and  to  the  town  in  5  min.  more,  but  is  closed  before  and  during  the 
vintage.  Another  steep  and  stony  path  descends  immediately  from 
the  Temple,  joining  the  other  path  about  halfway  down.  Rudes- 
heim, see  p.  116. 

From  RCdeshmm  to  the  Temple  45  min. ;  thence  to  the  Jagd- 
schloss  40  min. ;  down  to  Assmannshausen  25  min.,  or  by  Aul- 
hausen  40  minutes.  From  the  Rudesheim  station  we  ascend  by  a 
path  to  the  left  on  this  side  of  the  Bromserburg,  but  when  the 
vineyards  are  closed  we  follow  the  cart-road  which  ascends  from  the 
church  in  the  middle  of  the  town. 

19.  From  Coblenz  to  Mayence. 
Bailway  on  the  Left  Bank. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  102,  124. 

Railway  to  Bingerbriick,  89  M.,  express  in  iVa-i'A  hr.  (fares  5  m., 
3  m.  70,  2  m.  50  pf.).  —  From  Bingerbriick  to  Mayence,  20  M.,  in  »/«- 
1  hr.  (fares  2  m.  80,  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20  pf.).    View  to  the  left. 

Railway  on  the  Right  Bant,  see  R.  20.  Return-tickets,  available  for  1-2 
days,  may  be  used  on  either  bank  as  far  as  Bingerbriick  and  RUdetheim 
(see  p.  65).  —  Steamboat,  see  R.  17. 

Coblenz,  see  R.  16.  As  far  as  Bingen  the  line  generally  runs 
close  to  the  river,  and  passes  the  places  more  minutely  described 
in  R.  17.  Many  of  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  are  of  course  lost  to 
the  railway-traveller. 

As  Coblenz  is  quitted  a  view  of  the  island  of  Oberwerth  and  the 
fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein  is  obtained  to  the  left.  33/4  M.  Capcllen 
(steamb.  stat.)  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  of  Stolzenfels  (p.  98}. 
Opposite  are  Oberlahnstein  and  the  castle  of  Lahneok.  After  pass- 
ing the  Konigsstuhl,  which  rises  to  the  left,  the  line  intersects  the 
old  village  of  Rhens.  Farther  up,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is  Brau- 
bach  with  the  Marksburg,  and  beyond  it  the  chateau  of  Liebeneck. 
Then  — 

12y8  M.  Boppard  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  102);  15 1/2  M.  Salzig  (p. 
104).  A  little  farther  on  are  the  castles  of  Sterrenberg  and  Lie- 
benBtein  and  the  convent  of  Bornhofen ;  still  farther  up  are  Wel- 
mich  and  the  Mouse. 


to  Mayence.  INGELHEIM.  1$.  Route.     125 

22  M.  St.  Goar  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  104).  The  station  lies  on  a 
height  at  the  back  of  the  town.  On  the  opposite  bank  is  St.  Goars- 
hauaen  with  the  Gat.  To  the  left,  farther  on,  we  obtain  a  view 
of  the  Lurlei.  Three  tunnels,  beyond  which  is  (26  M.)  Oberweiel 
(steamb.  stat.  j  p.  108).  We  next  have  a  view  on  the  left  of  Caub, 
the  Pfalz,  and  the  ruin  of  Gutenfels  (p.  109),  and  then  reach  — 

30  M.  Bacharach  (steamb.  stat.*  p.  110);  32  M.  Niederheim- 
bach  (steamb.  stat. ;  p.  112);  35  M.  TrechtlingshauBenfa  113).  On 
the  opposite  bank,  Assmannshausen  and  Lorch  successively  come 
in  sight.   At  Bingerbriick  the  wider  part  of  the  valley  is  entered. 

39  M.  Bingerbruck  (see  p.  115)  lies  on  the  left  (Prussian)  bank 
of  the  Nahe,  about  %  M.  from  Bingen,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
Mouse  Tower  (p.  114).  Travellers  bound  for  Kreuznach  (p.  146), 
Saarbrtkken,  Treves,  Metz,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  —  Steam- 
boat to  Riideaheim  (p.  116).    Comp.  Map,  p.  124. 

On  the  road  to  the  Hunsriicken,  which  ascends  from  the  left  bank  of 
the  Nahe  to  Weiler,  is  situated  the  Rondel,  iy4  M.  from  the  railway 
station,  a  spot  which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  Rhine  and  Nahe, 
with  Bingen  and  the  Klopp  forming  a  picturesque  foreground.  Leaving 
the  Bingerbriick  station,  we  cross  the  rails  of  the  Bhein-Nahe-Bahn  (R.  23) 
and  reach  the  high-road  by  a  flight  of  steps.  The  Rondel,  being  a  con- 
spicuous point  planted  with  trees,  is  easily  recognised.  A  little  below  it 
is  a  modern  Gothic  villa. 

The  •Eliaenhdhe  (575  ft.  above  the  Rhine) ,  »/«  hr.  from  the  Binger- 
briick station,  commands  a  still  finer  view  than  the  Rondel.  A  finger- 
post near  a  group  of  houses  on  the  road  above  the  station  indicates  the 
route.  At  the  top  is  a  pavilion,  erected  in  lo78.  The  view  embraces  the 
Rheingau,  the  Niederwald  with  its  monument  (opposite),  and,  down  the 
Rhine,  the  Falkenburg  (p.  113).  A  finger-post  on  the  way  to  the  Elisen- 
hohe  points  out  the  path  to  the  Prituenkop/j  another  fine  point  of  view. 

The  Salskopf  (2004  ft. ;  to  the  W.  of  the  Franiosenkopf,  marked  on 
the  map  at  p.  224)  commands  an  extensive  view  up  and  down  the  Rhine, 
embracing  the  Pfalz  and  Hunsriick  (tower  at  the  top).  Refreshments  at 
the  adjacent  forester's  house  of  LauschhUtte.  From  Bingen  the  Salzkopf 
may  be  ascended  inShrs.,  via  He il ighreue ;  from  Tr*cMling»hauten  (p.  113) 
the  ascent,  through  the  Morgenbachthal  and  past  the  Jagerhaus,  also  takes 
3  hrs.  \  from  Niederheimbac/i,  via  Oberheimbach,  it  is  accomplished  in  one 
hour. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Nahe.  To  the  left  a  view  of  the 
Niederwald  and  the  ruined  castle  of  Ehrenfels  (p.  114). 

39l/2  M.  Bingen  (steamb.  stat.),  see  p.  115.  The  line  now  skirts 
the  base  of  the  Rochusberg  (several  villas  to  the  right),  unites  with 
the  line  from  Alzey  (R.  3o)  and  begins  to  diverge  from  the  Rhine. 
42  M.  QauUheim.  441/2  M.  Qau-Algesheim.  A  view  of  the  Johan- 
nisberg  to  the  left  is  sometimes  obtained,  but  the  country  generally 
is  flat  and  uninteresting. 

46  M.  Ingelheim,  station  for  the  two  villages  of  Nieder-Ingel~ 
heim  (Hirsch)  and  Ober- Ingelheim  (Lamm) ,  each  2/3  M.  distant. 
Nieder-  Ingelheim  was  once  the  site  of  a  celebrated  palace 
of  Charlemagne,  described  by  ancient  writers  as  an  edifice  of 
great  magnificence  ('domus  alta  centum  perfixa  columnis'),  to 
adorn  which  mosaics,  sculptures,  and  other  works  of  art  were 
sent  from  Ravenna  by  Pope  Hadrian  I.  between  768  and  784.    It 


126    BouU19.  HEIDESHEIM. 

was  burned  down  in  1270,  but  was  restored  by  Charles  IV.  in  1354. 
Few  relics  of  the  building  are  now  extant  (syenite  columns  of  the 
fountain  at  the  castle  of  Heidelberg,  see  p.  237).  The  Protestant 
St.  Remigiuskirehe  was  once  the  chapel  of  the  palace,  but  as  it  has 
been  repeatedly  restored,  nothing  of  the  original  is  now  left  except 
some  parts  of  the  N.  transept.  The  handsome  Protestant  Church 
of  Ober-Ingelheim ,  recently  festored,  dates  from  the  13th  century. 
It  was  at  Ingelhelm,  on  30th  Dec.  1105,  that  the  convocation  of 
the  bishops  of  Mayence,  Cologne,  and  Worms  dethroned  Emp. 
Henry  IV.,  an  event  which  is  quaintly  described  by  the  old 
German  historian  Sebastian  Munster  (1550).  The  red  wine  of 
Ingelheim  is  much  esteemed.  —  The  *  Waldeck  (590  ft.  above  the 
Rhine) ,  about  1  M.  beyond  Ober-Ingelheim ,  with  a  pavilion  and 
grounds,  affords  a  charming  view  of  the  Rheingau. 

49  V2  M.  Heide8heimT  where  good  wine  is  produced.  At  (53  M.) 
Budenheim  and  (55l/2  M.)  Mombach  (as  also  at  Weisenau,  p.  243) 
there  are  numerous  quarries  of  shell-limestone,  consisting  of 
myriads  of  UtorineUi,  which  is  largely  exported  to  the  Lower  Rhine 
and  Holland,  and  supplies  numerous  limekilns  on  the  banks  of 
the  river. 

59  M.  Mayence,  see  R.  22. 

20.  From  Coblenz  to  Wiesbaden.   Schlangenbad  and 

Schwalbach. 

Railway  on  the  Right  Bank. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  102\  124. 

59 V*  M.  Railway  to  Niederlahnstein  (3  M.)  in  8-15  min.  (fares  50.  40, 
30  pf.);  thence  to  Wiesbaden  (59  M.)  in  2»/2-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  60,  5  m.,  3  m. 
20  pf.).    Return-tickets,  see  p.  65.  —  Views  to  the  right. 

Travellers  bound  for  Gastel  or  Frankfort  (B.  29a)  need  not  go  via 
Wiesbaden,  as  there  is  a  direct  line  from  stat.  Curve  (p.  215)  to  stat. 
Mosbach  (see  below;  Map,  p.  124). 

Journey  from  Cologne  to  Coblenz,  see  R.  10;  from  Deutz  to 
Ehrenbreitstein,  see  R.  11.  Description  of  Coblenz,  and  Ehrenbreit- 
stein,  see  R.  16. 

Passengers  who  start  from  Coblenz  cross  the  handsome  new  rail- 
way-bridge (p.  94)  at  the  island  of  Oberwerth.  The  line  from 
Ehrenbreitstein  passes  the  old  railway-bridge  (which  is  now  used 
only  rot  local  trains  between  Coblenz  and  Ehrenbreitstein),  and 
runs  at  the  back  of  Pfaffendorf(j>.  98),  commanding  a  fine  view  the 
whole  way.  Opposite  the  island  of  Oberwerth  it  unites  with  the 
Coblenz  line  (see  above).  —  2*/2  M.  Sorekheim  (p»  98). 

4  M.  Hiederlahnstein  (p.  98) ,  the  junction  of  the  Coblenz- 
Cologne  and  Moselle  lines ,  the  Ehrenbreitstein  and  Deutz  line 
(R.  11),  and  the  Lahn  railway  (R»  27); 

The  line  crosses  the  Lahn.  View  of  Capellen  and  Stolzenfela 
to  the  right,  and  of  the  Lahnthal  and  Lahneok  to  the  left. 


OBERLAHNSTEIN.  20.  Route.     127 

4y2  M.  Oberlahmtein  (steamb.  stat.).  Opposite  lie*  the  village 
of  Rhens,  with  the  Konigsstuhl  (p.  100). 

7  M.  Braubaoh,  with  the  Marksburg  (p.  101).  11  M.  Osterspay 
(p.  102).  Passing  the  small  village  of  Filzen,  we  now  obtain  a  view 
of  Boppard,  beautifully  situated  on  the  opposite  bank.  15  M.  Camp 
(steamb.  stat.,  p.  103),  a  little  above  which  are  the  pilgrimage- 
church  and  convent  of  Bornhofen  at  the  foot  of  the  'Brothers',  as 
the  ruined  castles  of  Sterrenberg  and  Liebenstein  are  usually  called 
(p.  103).  17V2  M.  Kestert  (p.  104),  beyond  which  the  train  passes 
the  village  of  Welmich,  with  the  l Mouse1  castle  rising  above  it.  Far- 
ther on  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Rheinfels  on  the  opposite  bank. 

22  M.  St.  Goarshausen  (steamb.  stat.),  with  the  ruined  castle 
of  the  lCaV  (p.  106).  Opposite  lies  the  picturesque  little  town  of 
St.  Goat.  The  train  now  passes  through  a  tunnel  under  the  LurUi, 
and  through  another  under  the  Rossstein,  On  the  opposite  bank  lies 
Oberwesel,  a  picturesque  little  town,  commanded  by  the  Schonburg. 

29  M.  Caub  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  109),  above  which  rises  the  ruin 
of  Outenfels.  In  the  middle  of  the  Rhine  is  the  curious  old  chateau 
of  the  Pfalz.  Higher  up  the  river,  on  the  opposite  bank,  lies  the 
venerable  town  of  Bacharach,  overshadowed  by  the  ruin  of  Stahleck; 
then  the  ruin  of  Furstenberg  and  the  village  of  Rheindiebach.  The 
train  intersects  the  village  of  LorchhauMn. 

32V*  M.  Lorch  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  112).  On  the  opposite  bank, 
farther  up,  is  Niederheimbach,  commanded  by  the  round  tower  of 
the  Heimburg ;  then  the  slender  tower  of  the  Sooneck,  the  ruin  of 
Falkenburg,  the  Clemenskapelle,  and  the  picturesque  modernised 
eastle  of  Rheinatein. 

37 M.  JLagmannahausen  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  114)  is  the  usual  start- 
ing-point for  a  visit  to  the  Niederwald  (p.  122).  Opposite,  a  little 
higher  up,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Nahe,  immediately  above  which  lies 
Bingen.  The  train  passes  below  the  ruin  of  Ehrenfels,  opposite  which 
lies  the  island  with  the  Mouse  Tower,  where  the  stream  is  very  rapid. 

40  M.  Budesheim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  116).  On  the  left  rises  the 
Bromserburg.  Ferry  to  Bingerbruck  (junction  for  Kreuznach),  situat- 
ed immediately  below  Bingen  on  the  opposite  bank,  20  or  10  pf.  — 
Opposite  rises  the  Rochusberg,  with  its  chapel  (p.  116). 

4272  SI.  Geisenheim  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  118).  On  the  hill  to  the 
left  are  the  village  and  monastery  of  Eibingen.  —  45  M.  Oestrich- 
Winkel  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  119) ;  the  station  is  at  Mittelheim,  between 
these  two  places.  To  the  left  is  Schloss  Yollraths.  From  Winkel  to 
Johannisberg  an  easy  ascent  of  35  minutes. 

471/2  M.  Hattenh*im.  On  the  hill  to  the  left  is  Hallgarten ,  a 
famous  wine-producing  plaoe,  immediately  below  which  are  the  still 
more  famous  Steinberg,  the  Abbey  of  Eberbach,  and  the  Eichberg 
Lunatic  Asylum.  To  the  right  is  Sohloss  Reichartshausen.  To  the 
right  we  also  obtain  a  view  of  the  green  islands  in  the  Rhine.  — 
49  M.  Erbach  (p.  120). 


128    Route  20.  SCHLANGENBAD.  From  Coblenz 

50  M.  Eltville  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  120);  route  to  Schlangenbad 
and  Schwalbach,  see  below.  In  the  background  rises  the  handsome 
tower  of  the  Scharfenstein  (p.  121).  The  train  traverses  vineyards, 
and  passes  a  number  of  country-houses.  On  the  hill  to  the  left 
rises  the  church-tower  of  Rauenthal  (p.  121).  52  M.  Niederwalluf 
(steamb.  stat.,  p.  121);  5472  M.  Schierstein  (p.  121),  where  the 
train  begins  to  quit  the  river. 

56  M.  Biebrich-Mosbach  (steamb.  stat.,  p.  121).  The  N.  en- 
trance to  the  park  is  near  the  railway-station.  On  the  opposite  bank 
rise  the  towers  of  Mayence.  Beyond  Curve  (p.  215)  the  train  turns 
inland  to  the  left,  running  parallel  for  some  distance  with  the  Taunus 
line,  and  soon  reaches  — 

59V2  M.  Wiesbaden,  see  p.  130. 


Schlangenbad  and  Schwalbach  are  most  conveniently  visited 
from  Eltville,  Wiesbaden,  or  Dietz  (p.  197). 

From  Eltville  to  Schlangenbad  5  M. ,  to  Schwalbach  about  47s  M. 
farther  (in  summer  omnibus  4  times  daily  in  connection  with  the  trains; 
diligence  twice  daily  in  summer  to  Schlangenbad  in  l1/*  hr.,  fare  80  pf., 
and  to  Schwalbach  in  2 V4  hrs. ,  fare  1  m.  50  pf.).  Carriage  from  Eltville  to 
Schlangenbad  with  one  horse  5-7  m.,  with  two  horses  8-9  m.,  to  Schwalbach 
97s  m.  or  15  m. \  return-fare,  with  3  hrs.  stay,  one-half  more. 

From  Wiesbaden  to  Schwalbach  diligence  twice  daily  in  27a  hrs.,  fare 
1  m.  90  pf.  i  omnibus  daily,  fare  2  m.  — .  From  Hahnst&tten  to  Schwalbach 
diligence  daily  in  372  hrs. \  comp.  p.  197. 

Eltville,  see  p.  120.  The  road  from  Eltville  traverses  the  plain 
of  the  Sulzbach  (to  the  left  in  the  distance  rises  the  lofty  tower  of 
Scharfenstein,  near  Kiedrich,  p.  121),  and  gradually  ascends, 
skirting  the  foot  of  the  Rauenthal  vineyards,  to  (l3/4  M.)  Neudorf 
(Krone),  where  it  unites  with  the  road  from  Niederwalluf  and 
Schierstein.  It  next  passes  the  suppressed  monastery  of  Tiefenthal 
(now  a  mill),  and  leads  through  an  attractive,  shaded  valley,  en- 
livened by  numerous  mills,  to  (33/4  M.)  Schlangenbad. 

Pedestrians  should  select  the  somewhat  longer  route  by  Rauenthal. 
The  high-road  is  quitted  1  M.  from  Eltville,  and  the  vineyards  ascended 
by  a  footpath  to  the  left}  on  reaching  the  summit  of  the  plateau,  turn 
again  slightly  to  the  left;  (25  min.)  the  *Bubenhauser  Hifhe  (846  ft.),  com- 
manding a  magnificent  view  of  the  entire  Bheingau  from  Mayence  as  far  as 
below  Johannisberg  \  in  the  foreground  lies  the  attractive  town  of  Eltville. 
About  3A  M.  farther  N. ,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  is  situated  Rauenthal 
CNassauer  Hof,  with  garden  \  *Rheingauer  Ho/),  a  village  with  an  ancient 
church,  and  celebrated  for  its  wine.  The  carriage-road  to  it  from  Ven- 
dor/ (see  above)  ascends  to  the  left  at  a  direction-post  7<  M-  beyond  the 
village ,  leading  to  Rauenthal  in  7<  hr.  On  the  slope  of  the  hill  on  the 
N.  side  of  Rauenthal  a  shady  promenade  leads  to  Schlangenbad  in  */<  hr. 
Those  who  prefer  the  high-road  descend  to  the  right  by  a  way-post  about 
7«  M.  from  the  village.    To  the  road  »/4  M.,  to  Schlangenbad  17s  H.  more. 

Schlangenbad.  —  Hotel*.  Nassaueb  Hof,  R.  from  178}  D.  3,  B.  1  m.  * 
Hotel  Victobia  ;  Hotel  Planz  ;  Germania  ;  Rheing  aukr  Hof,  unpretend- 
ing. There  are  also  the  Royal  Bath  Houses  (R.  1-10  m.),  and  numerous 
lodging-houses  where  breakfast  only  is  supplied. 

Baths  I72  m. ;  those  at  the  new  bath-house  better,  2  m.  —  A  Tax  of 
12  m.  for  the  season  is  exacted  from  a  single  patient,  with  9  m.  for  each 
additional  member  of  a  party. 


to  Wiesbaden.  SCHWALBACH.  20.  Route.     1 29 

Carriages,  two-horse  5  m.,  one-horse  8Vt  m.  per  hour,  after  11  p.m. 
7  and  5  m.  —  Donkey,  per  hour,  1  m.  20  pf. 

Sehlangenbad  (826  ft.)  is  charmingly  situated  in  a  richly  wooded 
valley ,  refreshed  by  a  constant ,  invigorating  current  of  air.  The 
water  (84-90°  Fahr.),  which  is  only  used  externally ,  and  is  clear 
and  free  from  odour,  and  smooth  and  oily  to  the  touch,  is  most  effi- 
cacious in  skin  complaints,  convulsive  affections,  debility,  and  sim- 
ilar maladies ;  the  baths  are  principally  visited  by  ladies.  The  old 
bath-house,  or  Curhaus,  was  erected  in  1694  by  the  Landgrave  Carl 
of  Hessen-Gassel ,  then  lord  of  the  soil ;  the  spacious  new  Bath 
House  was  completed  in  1868.  The  terrace  is  the  chief  rendezvous 
of  visitors.  A  covered  iron  promenade  connects  the  bath-house, 
thermal  spring,  Cursaal,  reading-room,  etc.  The  environs  afford  a 
great  variety  of  well-shaded  wood- walks  (e.g.  Wilhelmsfclsen,  the 
Grave  Stein,  etc.). 

The  reader  will  And  an  interesting  description  of  this  locality 
in  Sir  Francis  Head's  ' Bubbles  from  the  Brunnens  of  Nassau.1 

Fbom  Sohlahobkbad  to  Wibsbadeh  (7»/t  M.  •,  two-horse  carr.  there 
and  back  15-18  m.).  The  carriage-road  by  (i»A  *.)  Oeorftnboni  (1187  ft) 
is  the  best  route  for  pedestrians.  From  the  highest  point  there  is  a 
magnificent  prospect,  extending  from  Frankfort  as  far  as  the  confluence 
of  the  Main  and  Rhine,  and  from  Worms  to  Bingen,  with  the  Donnersberg 
in  the  background.  To  the  Chautstehaus  (p.  199)  2»/<  M.,  thence  rilClaren- 
thai  (p.  136)  to  (3i/2  M.)  Wiesbaden  by  the  old  Wiesbaden  and  Schwalbach 
road. 

The  high-road  from  Sehlangenbad  by  Wambaeh  to  Schwalbach 
(4^2  M.)  rises  considerably  for  2*/j  M. ,  commanding  a  fine  view 
from  the  culminating  point,  and  then  descends  to  (2  M.)  Schwal- 
bach. Pedestrians  may  descend  by  a  shady  footpath,  which  Is  in- 
dicated by  sign-posts. 

Schwalbach.  —  Hotels.  *Allbsbaal,  'Hebzoo  von  Nassau,  in  these 
two  D.  4  m.;  *Post,  D.  3Vt,  B.  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m. ;  *H6tkl  Metropolb  ; 
Tadnus  Hotel,  Bumisghkb  Hof,  *Wagneb,  D.  at  the  last  three  2  m.  — 
Some  of  the  numerous  Lodging-Hou*et  are  very  comfortably  fitted  up.  In 
July  it  is  advisable  to  secure  rooms  in  advance. 

Keotauranta.  Cursaal,  D.  3  m.;  DilU,  Qartenlaubt,  D.  2  m. ;  Weiden- 
hof,  Marktplatz,  D.  l»/t  m. 

Beading  Boom  open  to  the  public. 

Baths  in  the  KOnigHches  Badhaus  (6  a.m.  till  U/f  p.m.,  1  m.  80  pf.  or 
2  m.).  At  the  Btadt  CobUnz,  Engl.  Mo/t  Linde,  Zum  Lmdenbrunnen,  etc., 
1  m.  20  to  1  m.  50  pf.  per  bath.  Bath  Tax  10  m.  for  1  person.  —  Muric  in 
the  morning  and  afternoon,  at  the  Stahlbrunnen  and  Paulinenbrunnen  al- 
ternately. —  Fee  to  the  girl  at  the  wells  discretionary. 

Carriages.  One-horse  37s,  two-horse  6  m.  per  hour,  after  11  p.  m.  2  m. 
more;  to  EUville  91/2  and  15  m. ;  to  Wiesbaden  10  and  15  m.  —  Donkey  » 
I1/2  m.  per  hour;  for  excursions  there  is  a  fixed  tariff. 

Telegraph  Office  at  the  post-office. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  Lutheran  Church  during  the  season. 

Schwalbach  (951  ft.),  officially  called  Langenschwalbach,  12  M. 
N.W.  of  Wiesbaden,  9l/2  M.  N.  of  Eltville,  and  15  M.  S.  of  Hahn- 
statten  (p.  197),  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  greea  valley.  It  was 
known  as  early  as  the  year  300,  and  was  a  fashionable  watering- 
place  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  but  is  now  regarded  more 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  9 


130    Route  21.  WIESBADEN. 

as  a  health-resort  and  medicinal  spa.  The  water,  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  iron  and  carbonic  acid,  is  adapted  for  internal  and 
external  use,  and  is  especially  efficacious  in  nervous  and  female 
complaints.   The  annual  number  of  visitors  is  about  5000. 

The  three  principal  springs,  the  Stahlbrunnen,  in  one  of  the 
valleys,  and  the  Weiribrunnen  and  Paulinenbrunnen  in  the  other, 
are  connected  by  promenades.  The  principal  Bath  House,  called 
the  Konigliches  Badchaus,  is  at  the  Weinbrunnen.  A  handsome 
Cursaal,  with  restaurant,  reading-room,  etc.,  was  opened  in  1879. 

Walks  in  the  pleasure-grounds  and  adjacent  woo  da.  Also  to  the 
(lOmin, ;  donkey  50  pf.)  Paulinenberg ;  the  Platte  (1329  ft.),  the  summit 
of  which,  with  a  fine  view,  may  be  reached  in  16-20  min.  more ;  and  the 
Br&unchesberg,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  town  and  the  valley  of 
the  Aar.  —  Longer  Excursions  may  be  taken  to  the  ruins  of  Adolphteck 
(Kling),  2Vs  M.  down  the  valley  of  the  Aar,  on  the  road  to  Dietz,  and  to 
Hohenslein  (Inn  at  the  ruins),  3  H.  farther  on.  A  good  road  leads  from 
Schwalbach  down  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Wisper  to  Oerolditein, 
Sauerthal  (Sauerburg),  and  Lorch  (p.  112). 

From  Schwalbach  to  Wiesbaden  (diligence  and  omnibus  twice  daily 
in  2  hrs.)  there  are  two  roads.  The  new  road,  now  almost  exclusively 
used,  ascends  by  the  course  of  the  Aar  to  Bleidenstadt  and  Hahn,  then 
quits  the  valley,  and  traverses  wooded  heights  towards  the  8.E.  The  old 
road  crosses  the  ffohe  Wurzel  (near  which  is  the  Rothekreuzkopf>  1673  ft., 
a  fine  point  of  view)  and  passes  the  Chatuseehaus  (1184  ft.),  where  it  unites 
with  the  road  from  8chlangenbad  to  Wiesbaden  (p.  129). 

21.    Wiesbaden. 

Arrival.  The  stations  of  the  Right  Rhenish  Railway  (R.  20),  Taunus 
Railway  (R.  29a),  and  Hessische  Ludwigsbahn  (to  Idstein,  p.  220)  are  all 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  (Plan  E,  8).  Cab  from  the  stations  into  the 
town,  one-horse.  1-2  pers.  80  pf.,  3-4  pers.  1  m.  \  two-horse,  1  m.  10  or 
1  m.  30  pf. ;  each  box  20  pf.,  small  articles  free.  The  steamboats  stop  at 
Biebrich  (see  p.  121).    Omnibus,  see  p.  131. 

Hotels.  "Kassauer  Hof  (PI.  b;  E,  5),  in  the  Theater-Platz ,  with  a 
handsome  dependance,  called  the  Villa  Nauau,  Sonnenberger-Str.  1  (Pl< 
F ,  5)  ;  *Vier  Jahrbszeiten  &  Hotel  Zais  (PI.  a ,  E  5) ,  also  in  the 
Theater-Platz;  *Rosb  (PI.  d;  E,  6),  Kranz-Platz  7-9,  with  a  large  garden-, 
Hotel  Victoria  ,  Rhein-Str.  1,  corner  of  the  Wilhelm-Str.  (PI.  E,  F,  7)  ; 
*Adlkr  (PI.  c  *,  D ,  5) ,  Langgasse  32 ,  near  the  Kochbrunnen  ;  all  these 
fashionable  and  expensive.  "Bab  (PI.  1;  E,  5),  Langgasse  41,  with  'pen- 
sion' •,  "Grand  Hotel,  Schutzenhof-Str.  3  and  4,  opposite  the  old  post-office 
(PL  16  ;  D,  6) ,  with  'pension' ;  *Rhein-H6tel  ,  to  the  left  on  leaving  the 
station,  at  the  corner  of  the  Rheinbahn-Str.  (PI.  E,  8),  R.  272-3  m.,  L. 
60,  A.  50-75,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  I>.  3  m.;  *H6tel  du  Nord,  Wilhelm-Str.  6 
(PI.  E,  6),  R.,  L.,  and  A.  from  27a  m.;  all  first-class  and  with  baths.  — 
Second  Class:  *Gruner  Wald  (PI.  h;  E,6),  Markt-Str.  10,  R.  from  2  m., 
B.  1  m.,  A.  50,  D.  2m.  40  pf.;  *H6tel  Weins,  Bahnhof-Str.  7  (PI.  E,  7), 
R.,  L.,  and  A.  from  17s  m.,  D.  a  la  carte  17<-2m.;  Spbhner,  Wilhelm- 
Str.  28,  R.  &  A.  from  172  m.,  with  baths;  'Taunus  H6tel  (PI.  e;  E,  7), 
Rhein-Str.  3,  R.  from  2  m.,  L.  45  pf.,  A.  50  pf.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  3  m.,  good 
wines  (starting-point  of  the  Schwalbach  omnibus);  'Railway  Hotel,  Rhein- 
Str.  la,  moderate,  with  garden-restaurant;  HGtel  Vogel,  Rhein-Str.  11 
(PI.  D,  E,  7)  \  these  three  near  the  stations.  —  *  Alter  Nonnenhof,  Kirch- 
gasse  41  (PI.  D,  7),  R.  1  m.  20  to  1  m.  70  pf.,  D.  H/f  m.;  Einhobn,  un- 
pretending. —  Hotels  Garnis:  Hdtel  Block  (near  the  theatre  and  Trink- 
halle),  Berliner  Ho/,  Hdtel  Bellevue,  all  in  the  Wilhelm-Str.,  comfortable 
but  expensive. 

Bath  House*.  EuropUitcher  2fc/(Pl.  i$  E,  5),  Kochbrunnen-PlaU  6}  Eng~ 


Cabs. 


WIESBADEN. 


21.  Route.     131 


lischer  Ho/  (PI.  k;  E,  5),  Kranz-Platz  11  *  Bdr,  see  above  ;  Kaiserbad,  Wil- 
helm-Str.  42  (PI.  E,  7) ;  ROmerbad  (PI.  zn  5  E,  5),  Kochbrunnen-Platz  3; 
*Engel  (PI.  n;  E,  5),  Kranz-Platz  6;  *Weisser  Schwan  (PI.  o;  E.  5),  Koch- 
brunnen-Platz 1;  Krone  (PI.  p;  E,  5),  Langgasse  26;  Schtearzer  Bock, 
Kranz-Platz  12  (PI.  E,  5),  well  spoken  of;  KolnUcher  Ho/,  Kleine  Burg- 
Str.  6;  Spiegel  (PI.  q;  E,  5),  Kranz-Platz  10;  Stem  (PI.  r;  E,  5),  Weber- 
gasse 8;  Weisses  Ross,  Rheinstein,  etc.    Charges  vary  with  the  season. 

Restaurant*.  At  the  *  Cursaal,  expensive  ;  *Christmann  and  Lugen- 
buhl,  both  in  the  Untere  Webergasse ;  *Dahlheim,  Taunus-8trasse  15 ;  Dasch, 
Wilhelms-Str.  24,  with  rooms  to  let;  *  Alter  Nonnenho/,  see  above.  Table 
d'hote  at  all  during  the  season.  Moos,  Kirch-Str.  19.  —  Bmr.  "Bier -Salon, 
in  the  Cursaal;  *Neuer  Nonnenho/,  Kirchgasse  39;  Engel,  Langgasse  36; 
Devtscher  Keller,  in  the  Rhein-Hotel,  see  above;  Victoria  Hotel,  Rhein- 
Str.  1,  see  above;  Dasch,  see  above;  *Duensing  (Railway  Hotel),  WiLhelm- 
Str.  2  and  Rhein-Str.  la,  with  a  pleasant  garden;  Potht,  Langgasse  11; 
Vogel,  Rhein-Str.  11;  Trinthammer ,  Bahnhof-Str.  12.  —  *Beer  Garden 
(Felsenkeller)  on  the  Bierstadt  Road,  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  with  a  view  ; 
near  it  the  Bierst&dter  Warte,  with  a  still  more  extensive  view.  Beau  Site 
at  the  terminus  of  the  tramway  in  the  Nerothal,  see  p.  136.  In  winter  the 
Brand  Hdtel  opens  a  'biersalon'  which  is  much  frequented.  —  Oonfeetioners. 
*RSder,  Webergasse  10 ;  Jaeger ,  Grosse  Burg-Str.  10;  Wens,  Spiegelgasse  4 ; 
Brenner  A  Blum,  Schtitzenhof-Str.  4  (PI.  D,  6). 

Ouraaal  (PI.  11).  'Rdunions  daruantet"  on  Saturdays,  during  the  season ; 
tickets  issued  by  the  bath  -  authorities.  Concerts  on  Fridays,  performers 
of  the  highest  class,  adm.  2-6  m. 

Visitors'  Tax.  (a)  For  a  year:  1  person  20  zn.,  for  a  family  of  2  per- 
sons 30  m.,  for  each  additional  pers.  3  m.—  (b)  For  six  weeks:  1  person 
10  m.,  for  a  family  of  2  pers.  15,  each  pers.  additional  3  m.,  children  and 
servants  included.  Payment  of  this  tax  entitles  the  visitor  to  the  use  of 
the  various  public  sanitary  establishments  (Kochbrunnen,  Trinkhalle,  etc.), 
and  of  the  well-supplied  Reading  Room  (p.  133),  and  to  attend  the  Con- 
ckbts  (in  the  Curgarten,  daily  in  summer,  6.30  to  8  a.m.  and  4  to 
5-45  p.m.;  and  also  8-10  p.m.),  Wednesday  balls,  etc.  Passing  travellers 
may  procure  day-tickets,  admitting  to  the  Cursaal,  for  50  pf.  —  The  Our- 
▼erein  (office  in  the  Cursaal) ,  which  publishes  the  'Badeblattf  daily  in 
summer,  will  supply  visitors  with  any  information  they  may  desire. 

Theatre  (PI.  21 ;  E,  5),  one  of  the  best  on  the  Rhine,  managed  by  the 
general  direction   of    theatrical    performances    at  Berlin,    daily,   except 
Mondays  and  Fridays,  beginning  at  6.30  p.m.  (closed  in  June  or  July). 
Gab-Tariff  (double  fares  from  11  p.  m.  to  6  or  7  a.  m.). 

Drive  in  the  town  or  to  any  of  the  villas  as  far  as 
the  DietenmiLhle 

1-2  persons 

34  persons 

By  time:  per  hour  within  the  town,  1-4  pers.     .   .   . 
-    beyond      -       -       -       -     .   .  .   . 

!(In  each  case  the  hirer 
may  keep  the  cab  for 
»/a  hr.  and  then  re- 
turn at  half  these 
fares;  each  additional 
»A  hr.  30-50  pf.) 

To  the  Platte  and  back,  with  stay  of  1*/*  br 

ToSchwalbach  and  Schlangenbad  and  back  (whole  day) 
(To  Schlangenbad  without  returning  9  and  12  m. ;  to 

Schwalbach  10  m,  20  and  13  m.  70  pf.) 
From  the  railway-stations  to  the  town,  see  p.  130. 
Hotel-carriages  one-fourth  to  one-third  more. 

Tramways.  From  the  stations  to  the  Artillery  Barracks,  and  in  the 
other  direction  through  the  Wilhelm-Str.,  Taunus-Str.,  and  the  Nerothal 
to  Beau  Site.    Fare  20-30  pf. 

Omnibus  at  8  a,m.  from  Langgasse  20  %o  the  steamboat-pier  at  Biebrich, 

9* 


One-h. 
m.  pf. 

Two-h. 
m.  pf. 

-  60 
-80 
2- 
280 

—  90 
1  10 
8- 

4  — 

1  — 

1  70 
240 
240 

1  40 
2- 
3- 
3  40 

690 
16- 

9- 
20  - 

132     Route  21.  WIESBADEN.  JHWory. 

70,  with  luggage  90  pf.  \  from  the  Taunua-Hotel  to  Schwalbach,  every  after- 
noon in  summer,  2  m. 

Swimming  Baths  at  the  Nerothal  Hydropathic  (p.  136;  tramway);  bath 
50  pf . 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  16;  E,7),  Rhein-Str.  9.  Branch-offices 
at  Schiitzenhof-Str.  (PI.  16;  D,6)  and  in  the  Cursaal,  at  the  back  of  the 
new  Colonnade.  —  Railway  Tickets  may  be  procured  at  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal hotels. 

English  Church  (St,  Augustine's)  in  the  Wilhelm-Strasse ;  services  at 
11  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m.  (summer  7  p.m.).  Chaplain,  Rev.  Llewellyn  Wil- 
liams, B.A. 

Wiesbaden  (377  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  92  ft,  above  the  Rhine), 
with  50,000  inhab.,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Nassau, 
and  now  the  chief  town  of  the  Prussian  district  of  Wiesbaden,  lies 
on  the  S.W.  spurs  of  the  Taunus  Mts.,  in  a  basin  watered  by  the 
Salzbach,  and  is  surrounded  by  productive  orchards  and  vineyards. 
It  is  a  very  pleasant ,  and  for  the  most  part  well-built  town.  A 
number  of  handsome  streets  have  sprung  up  within  the  last  fifty 
years  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cursaal  and  the  railway-stations, 
while  the  public  grounds  together  with  the  gardens  of  the  'Land- 
hauser' ,  or  villas  where  apartments  are  let ,  greatly  enhance  the 
attractions  of  the  place.  Wiesbaden  is  annually  visited  by  upwards 
of  60,000  patients  and  travellers.  The  excellence  of  its  sanitary 
establishments ,  coupled  with  the  healthiness  of  the  climate,  ren- 
der it  a  favourite  resort  of  strangers,  even  in  winter ,  when  living 
is  moreover  less  expensive  than  in  summer.  Many  of  the  neigh- 
bouring villas  are  private  residences. 

Wiesbaden  is  one  of  the  oldest  watering-places  in  Germany.  lSunt  et 
Mattiaci  in  Oermania  fontes  calidi  trans  Rhenum,  quorum  haustus  triduo  fer- 
veV  is  Pliny's  account  of  Wiesbaden  (Hist.  Nat.  xzxi.  2).  On  the 
Heidenberg ,  which  rises  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  traces  of  a  Roman  fortress 
were  discovered  in  1838,  which  according  to  the  inscriptions  was  garrison- 
ed by  the  14th  and  22nd  Legions.  The  ffeidenmauer  (heathens'*  wall),  660 
ft.  long ,  10  ft.  high,  9  ft.  thick ,  was  perhaps  a  connecting  line  between 
the  fort  and  the  town.  Various  objects  found  here  are  exhibited  in  the 
Museum  (p.  134). 

From  the  Railway  Stations  (PI.  E,  8)  the  traveller  enters 
the  Wilhelm-Strasse  (PL  E,  7,  6),  planted  with  trees,  and  about 
^2  M.  in  length,  bounding  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  and  adjoined  by 
the  Anlagen,  or  public  pleasure-grounds,  in  which  is  situated  the 
English  Church  (PI.  7).  Among  the  buildings  in  the  Wilhelm-Str. 
are  the  Museum  (p.  134)  and  the  new  Kaiserbad. 

At  the  end  of  the  avenue,  to  the  left,  lies  the  Thbatbb-Platz, 
adorned  with  flower-beds  and  a  Bust  of  Schiller  (PI.  19;  E,  5),  a 
copy  of  Dannecker's.  Three  sides  of  this  Platz  are  occupied  by  the 
Vier  Jahreszeiten  Hotel,  the  Nassauer  Hof,  and  the  Theatre  (PI.  21). 
On  the  right  is  the  square  in  front  of  the  Cursaal,  embellished 
with  flower-beds  and  two  handsome  fountains,  which  are  illumin- 
ated at  night,  and  flanked  by  spacious  Doric  Colonnades  (PI.  3 ; 
F,  5),  restored  since  a  Are  In  1877,  which  serve  as  a  bazaar.  Jtfer- 
keVs  Picture  Gallery  is  worthy  of  a  visit  (adm.  50  pf.;  family  season- 
ticket  15  m.). 


K  - 


132     Routt  21. 


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Cursaal.  WIESBADEN.  21.  Route.     133 

The  'Cursaal  (PI.  11,  F,5 ;  adm.  see  p.  131),  completed  In  1810 
from  designs  by  Zais,  and  dedicated  'Fontibus  Mattiacis',  is  the 
chief  resort  of  visitors.  The  facade  consists  of  an  Ionic  hexa- 
style  portico,  while  at  the  sides  are  long  colonnades  supported  by 
24  Doric  columns.  The  principal  hall,  restored  with  great  taste  in 
1863,  is  132  ft.  long,  60  ft.  wide,  and  48  ft.  high.  The  orchestra 
galleries  are  supported  by  handsome  Corinthian  columns  of  the  red 
and  grey  marble  of  the  country.  The  other  saloons  are  all  handsomely 
fitted  up.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  restaurant,  on  the  S.  side  the 
concert,  ball,  and  reading-rooms,  the  last  well-supplied  with  news- 
papers and  periodicals. 

The  "Park  at  the  back  of  the  Cursaal,  with  which  it  communi- 
cates by  an  iron  arcade,  is  the  favourite  after-dinner  lounge  of  visi- 
tors to  the  baths,  as  well  as  of  numerous  excursionists  from  Mayence 
and  the  neighbourhood,  who,  especially  on  Sunday  afternoons, 
flock  to  these  shady  grounds  to  sip  their  coffee  and  enjoy  the  music. 
A  fountain  with  a  jet  100  ft.  in  height  plays  in  the  great  pond 
every  afternoon. 

On  the  Adolphsberg,  to  the  N. ,  are  situated  the  Palais  Pauline 
(PI.  14;  F,5),  a  building  in  the  Moorish  style,  erected  in  1842, 
and  a  number  of  pretty  villas  surrounded  by  gardens. 

The  Kochbrnnnen  (PI.  10 ;  E,  5),  or  boiling  spring  (156°  Fahr.), 
the  most  important  of  the  thermal  springs  (of  which  chloride  of 
sodium  is  the  chief  ingredient),  is  connected  with  the  Curgarten  by 
a  long  iron  TrmkhalU  (PI.  22)  in  the  form  of  a  verandah.  The 
waters  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  rheumatism,  gout,  and  many 
other  ailments,  and  are  usually  drunk  between  5  and  8  a.m. 

It  is,  however,  for  external  use  that  the  waters  of  Wiesbaden 
are  most  celebrated,  their  action  resembling  that  of  the  Wildbad 
springs,  like  which  they  contain  very  little  salt.  In  addition  to  the 
Kochbrunnen,  which,  however,  is  almost  entirely  used  for  drinking, 
there  are  no  fewer  than  28  bathing-springs.  Most  of  the  more  im- 
portant bath-houses,  including  the  Rbmerbad  (the  oldest  of  all), 
Rose,  Schwan,  Europaischer  Hof,  Engliseher  Hof>  and  AcUer,  have 
each  a  spring  of  their  own.  The  marble  Hygeia  Group  (PI.  6 ;  E,  5) 
in  the  Kranz-Platz  is  by  Hoffmann  of  Wiesbaden. 

The  Langgasse,  which  issues  from  the  Kranz-Platz,  and  the  first 
cross-street,  the  Webergasse,  are  the  main  streets  of  the  old  part 
of  the  town  and  contain  many  hotels  and  handsome  shops.  Keeping 
to  the  left.(S.),  we  reach  the  Markt-Platz  (PI.  E,  4),  enclosed  by 
the  Protestant  Church,  the  Palace,  and  the  Wilhelms-Hospital. 

The  Gothic  *  Protestant  Church  (PI.  8;  E,6j,  with  its  five 
lofty  towers,  opposite  the  palace,  built  of  polished  bricks  in 
1852-60,  is  the  most  conspicuous  edifice  in  the  town.  The  choir 
is  adorned  with  colossal  marble  statues  of  Christ  and  the  four 
Evangelists,  by  Hopfgarten. 

The  royal  (formerly  ducal)  Palace  (PI.  13;  E,  6),  at  the  corner 


134     Route  21.  WIESBADEN.  Museum. 

of  the  Market  and  the  Markt-Str.,  was  built  by  Goerz  in  1837-40. 
Adjoining  it  is  the  '  Wilhelms-HeilanstaW ,  or  military  hospital,  a 
building  in  the  Italian  style,  by  Hoffmann,  finished  in  1871. 

The  Boman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  9 ;  D,  7),  also  built  by  Hoff- 
mann, is  a  handsome  modern  structure  in  the  Romanesque  style 
(many  of  the  ornamental  details  Gothic),  with  groined  vaulting. 
Altar-piece  on  the  right,  Madonna  and  Child,  by  Steinle;  left, 
St.  Boniface ,  by  Rethel.  At  the  high-altar  are  fifteen  figures  of 
Saints,  by  Hoffmann,  Vogel,  and  Hopfgarten.  In  the  Luisbn-Platz 
(PI.  D,  7),  in  front  of  the  church,  an  Obelisk  (PI.  23)  was  erected  in 
1865,  to  the  memory  of  the  Nassovian  soldiers  who  fell  at  Waterloo. 

The  Government  Buildings  (PI.  18;  E,7),  Luisen-Str.,  in  the 
Florentine  palatial  style,  were  erected  in  1842. 

The  Museum  (PI.  12;  E,  6,  7),  Wilhelm-  Str.  20,  occupying  a 
building  erected  by  Zais  in  1812  as  a  palace  for  the  crown-prince, 
contains  the  municipal  picture-gallery,  collections  of  antiquities  and 
natural  history  specimens,  and  a  library. 

The  Picture  Gallery  (open  daily,  except  Sat.  and  festivals,  11-1  and  2-4), 
on  the  ground-floor  to  the  right,  contains  some  good  modern  pictures  (Cat- 
alogue 36  pf.) :  Leasing,  Forest  scene;  J.  Becker,  Village  on  fire,  a  sketch  in 
colours;  C.  Triebel,  Swiss  landscape;  A.  Achenbaeh,  View  of  Porto  Venere 
near  Spezia;  F.  Piloty,  Sir  Thomas  More  in  prison;  W.  Bohn,  Different 
paths  of  life;  G.  Triebel,  Lake  of  Lucerne;  L.  Knaut,  Tavern  scene; 
F.  Biddemann,  Jealousy;  0.  Achenbaeh,  Coast  near  Naples;  Oehmichen, 
Sad  news;  Sondermann,  Our  heroes.  Also  several  Dutch  and  Italian  pic- 
tures of  the  17th  and  18th  cent.,  and  several  early  German  works.  —  The 
last  rooms  also  contain  the  Exhibition  of  the  Central  Rhenish  Kunstverein. 

The  Collection  of  Antiquities  (Mon.,  Wed.,  Frid.,  2-6)  is  on  the  ground- 
floor  to  the  left.  Vestibule.  Roman  stone  monuments.  —  Room  I.  Flint 
and  bronze  implements;  objects  found  in  the  caverns  in  the  Leer  near 
Steeten  on  the  Lahn,  some  of  the  bones  ornamented.  —  Room  II.  Roman 
sandals,  found  at  Hayence.  Collection  of  glasses,  historically  arranged.  — 
Room  III.  Mithras  monument,  found  at  Heddernheim ;  bronze  door,  found 
at  Mayence.  —  Room  IV.  Models  of  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Roman  build- 
ings. Bronze  pyramid  of  Jupiter  Dolichenus.  —  Room  V.  Franconian 
antiquities.  —  Room  VI.  Stone  monuments;  Jupiter,  from  Igstadt;  three 
portrait-statues  from  Nieder-Ingelheim.  —  Room  VII.  Models  of  a  Roman 
villa  at  Marienfels  and  of  the  fort  of  Wiesbaden.  —  Room  VIII.  Mediaeval 
curiosities,  including  a  gilded  and  carved  wooden  altar  of  the  13th  cent., 
from  the  abbey  of  Marienstadt. 

The  first  floor  contains  an  admirably-arranged  Natural  History  Col- 
lection, including  Gerning's  celebrated  Collection  of  Insects  and  a  com- 
plete series  of  the  minerals  of  Nassau  (Sun.  11-1,  Mon.,  Wed.,  Frid.,  2-6). 

The  Library  (daily,  10-2),  in  the  upper  story,  contains  valuable  old 
MSS.,  including  three  interesting  parchment  codices  of  the  12th  and  13th 
cent.  (Visions  of  St.  Hildegarde),  with  initials  and  miniatures. 

On  the  Michelsberg,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town,  rises  the 
Synagogue  (PI.  20;  D,  6),  in  the  Moorish  style,  erected  by  Hoff- 
mann, and  completed  in  1869.  It  is  covered  by  a  central  dome 
about  120  ft.  in  height,  and  four  smaller  domes  at  the  sides,  adorned 
externally  with  a  kind  of  red  and  white  mosaic,  and  internally  in 
the  style  of  the  Alhambra.  —  Two  new  Schools  in  the  vicinity.  — 
The  Promenade  adjoining  the  Heidenmauer  (PI.  24;  p.  132)  was 
formerly  a  cemetery ;  it  commands  a  good  view  of  the  town. 


Chapel.  WIESBADEN.  21.  Route.     135 

The  Protestant  Bergkirche  (PI.  D,  E,  5),  a  brick  edifice  built 
by  Otten  in  1876-79,  is  a  worthy  example  of  the  Hanoverian  Gothic 
style;  the  interior  is  embellished  with  appropriate  frescoes  by 
Schmidt. 

The  Old  Cemetery  (PL  C,  3),  on  the  old  Limburg  road,  s/«  M.  from 
the  town,  contains  a  number  of  handsome  monuments,  the  best  of  which 
are  by  Oerth.  The  Mausoleum  (to  the  S.  of  the  dead-house)  of  the  Duchess 
Pauline  (d.  1866),  by  Boos,  is  embellished  with  sculptures  by  Drake  of 
Berlin.  Monument  to  the  fallen  of  1870-71,  with  a  bronte  victory  by  Schiess. 

Wiesbaden  possesses  excellent  educational  establishments,  the 
chief  of  which  is  the  Chemical  Laboratory  of  Fresenius. 

Emvibons  of  Wibbbadbn. 

The  promenades  of  the  'Carpark'  (p.  133)  ascend  by  the  Ram- 
bach  in  20  min.  to  the  Dietenmuhle  (PI.  H,  3),  where  there  is  a  good 
Hydropathic  Establishment  (with  restaurant).  About  */*  hr.  beyond 
it  is  Sonneriberg  (Jacquemar's  Inn) ,  a  village  with  a  castle  which 
once  belonged  to  the  Counts  of  Nassau,  and  was  destroyed  in  1689 
(tavern  at  the  top).  To  the  E.  [}U  hr.)  rises  the  Bingert^  a  fine 
point  of  view.  —  Near  Rambach,  i/j  hr.  higher  up  the  valley  than 
Sonnenberg,  a  Roman  fort  was  excavated  in  1859. 

To  the  N.  of  Wiesbaden,  about  halfway  up  the  Neroberg,  1  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  Cursaal  (pleasantest  route  through  the  Dambachthal, 
PI.  D,  E,  2),  is  situated  the  "Greek  Ghaptl(Pl.  D,  1 ;  538ft.),  erect- 
ed from  the  designs  of  Hoffmann  as  a  mausoleum  for  the  Duchess 
Elizabeth  Michailowna,  a  Russian  princess  (d.  1845) .  The  terrace 
in  front  of  it  affords  a  fine  view  of  Wiesbaden  and  Mayence ;  to  the 
S.  rises  the  Melibocus,  to  the  S.W.  the  long  Donnersberg. 

The  richly  decorated  Chapel.  90  ft.  in  height,  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  is  covered  by  a  large,  and  four  smaller  domes,  all  gilded ;  the  highest 
is  surmounted  by  a  Russian  double  cross.  190  ft  from  the  ground,  secured  by 
gilded  chains.  The  interior  is  entirely  or  marble.  A  rich  altar-screen  (Ikono- 
stas) ,  with  numerous  figures  of  saints  on  a  golden  ground ,  painted  in 
Russia,  separates  the  body  of  the  chapel  from  the  choir,  to  which  the 
priests  and  their  attendants  alone  have  access.  The  altar,  above  which  is 
a  window  with  a  stained-glass  figure  of  the  Saviour,  is  visible  only  during 
divine  service.  A  pentagonal  recess  on  the  N.  side  contains  the  beautiful 
*  Monument  of  the  Buckets.  The  recumbent  figure  of  white  marble,  rest- 
ing on  a  sarcophagus ,  at  the  sides  of  which  are  statuettes  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles ,  and  at  the  corners  Faith ,  Hope ,  Charity .  and  Immortality,  was 
executed  by  Prof.  Hopfgarten  of  Berlin.  The  circle  of  angels  in  the 
dome  and  the  four  prophets  and  four  evangelists  in  the  angles  between 
the  arches  are  by  Hopfgarten.  the  painter.  Divine  service  according  to  the 
Greek  ritual  on  Sundays  at  10  a.  m.  \  the  public  are 'not  admitted.  At  other 
times  the  chapel  is  shown  by  the  sacristan  who  lives  near  (fee  for  1*2  pers. 
75  pf.  - 1  m.,  3-4  pers.  iV«-2  m.). 

On  the  wooded  *Heroberg  (PI.  C,  1),  to  the  N.W.  of,  and  74hr. 
above  the  chapel  (road  indicated  by  sign-posts),  is  an  open  Temple 
(725  ft.),  commanding  an  extensive  prospect.  Beside  it  is  a  large 
oak,  amid  the  branches  of  which  a  gallery  has  been  constructed, 
reached  by  easy  steps'.  The  large  and  handsome  restaurant  was 
built  by  Lemcke.  Promenades  intersect  the  wood  in  every  direction, 


136     Route  22.  MAYENOE. 

and  extend  as  far  as  (37a  M.)  the  Platte  (see  below),  the  way  to 
which  is  shown  by  a  guide-post.  Other  paths,  also  indicated  by 
finger-posts,  lead  to  the  Speierskopf  (A.Q  min.),  the  Felsengruppe 
(20  min.),  the  Leichtweisshohle  (25  min.),  the  Trauerbuche  (35  min.), 
and  various  other  points.  —  We  may  now  return  to  the  town  by  the 
Nerothal,  a  pleasant  grassy  valley,  in  which  lie  the  garden-restau- 
rant of  lBeau  Site'  (PI.  B,  2;  tramway,  p.  131)  and  the  popular 
hydropathic  establishment  of  lNerotJmV  (PI.  C,  3;  see  also  p.  132). 
At  the  entrance  of  the  Nerothal  from  the  town  is  a  Monument 
(PI.  D,  3)  to  Nassovian  soldiers  who  fell  in  1870-71. 

The  *Platte  (1640  ft.),  a  shooting-lodge  of  the  Duke  of  Nassau, 
built  in  1824  on  a  height  about  4*/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Wiesbaden 
(comp.  the  Map,  p.  124),  is  frequently  visited  for  the  extensive 
view  (finest  by  evening  light),  embracing  the  Spessart,  Odenwald, 
and  Donnersberg,  and  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Haardt 
Mts.,  with  Mayence  in  the  foreground.  The  two  fine  stags  at  the 
entrance  were  modelled  by  Ranch.  *Inn  adjacent.  The  prettiest 
route  from  Wiesbaden  is  through  the  Nerothal,  and  by  the  Nero- 
berg,  the  Wildkanzel,  and  the  Trauerbuche,  a  walk  of  l3/*  hr. 
(finger-posts).  The  carriage-drive  to  the  Platte  is  the  old  Limburg 
road.  —  Pedestrians  may  descend  from  the  Platte  to  the  S.E.  to 
Sonnenberg  (p.  135),  3M.  distant.  The  path,  which  diverges  from 
the  main  road  to  the  left  by  a  plantation  of  oaks,  is  distinctly  vi- 
sible from  the  platform.  Wiesbaden  lies  iy2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 
Sonnenberg. 

Far  below,  in  the  valley  to  the  left,  lies  the  ancient  nunnery  of  Cla- 
renthal,  founded  in  1296  by  King  Adolph  of  Nassau  and  his  consort 
Imagina  of  Limburg;  above  it  is  a  building  formerly  used  as  a  Pheasantry 
(restaurant).  In  a  valley  between  the  latter  and  the  Platte,  to  the  right 
of  the  Schwalbach  road,  is  the  extensive  fish-rearing  establishment  of  the 
Nassovian  fishery  association  (restaurant  with  view). 

Wiesbaden  is  connected  with  Mosbach  (p.  121)  by  a  double  avenue  of 
horse-chestnuts.  Half-way  to  the  village  is  the  AdolphskOhe,  a  restaurant 
which  affords  a  beautiful  survey  of  the  Rheingau  as  far  as  the  -Rochus- 
Capelle  near  Bingen.  Another  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the  Chaussee- 
haus,  a  forester's  house,  on  the  old  Schwalbach  road,  3  H.  from  Wies- 
baden ,  at  the  point  where  the  road  to  Schlangenbad  diverges  (p.  129). 
Near  it  rises  the  *SchWer$kopf  (1492  ft.),  commanding  an  extensive  pro- 
spect. Fine  views  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  are  obtained  from  the  *Rothe 
Kreuz  and  the  Rumpelskellev,  each  about  2y«  M.   from  the  Chausseehaus. 

Another  very  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  *Xellerskopf 
(906  ft. ;  belvedere  and  inn),  which  is  reached  from  Wiesbaden  via  Barn- 
bach  in  2  hrs.,  and  may  be  ascended  from  Niedernhavsen  (p.  220)  in  one 
hour.  A  beautiful  forest-path  that  leads  to  it,  diverging  from  the  old  Id- 
stein  road,  can  scarcely  be  found  without  help. 

22.  Mayence. 

The  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  4)  for  the  lines  of  the  'JStosfreA*  Lud- 
toigsbahn'  to  and  from  Bingen,  Worms,  Frankfort  (by  the  left  bank  of  the 
Main),  and  Darmstadt  is  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town.  —  By  means  of 
the  Fekbt  Stbamboat  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5)  Mayence  is  also  connected  with  the 
Taunus  Railway  to  and  from  Frankfort  (by  the  right  bank  of  the  Main), 
Wiesbaden,  and  the  Nassovian  Railway  (right  bank  of  the  Rhine).    Pas- 


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Hotels.  MAYENCE.  22.  Route.     137 

sengers  by  these  last  lines  may  obtain  tickets  at  the  pier  of  the  ferry- 
boat at  Mayence,  while  those  in  the  reverse  direction  have  their  luggage, 
if  booked  through  to  Hayence ,  transmitted  from  Castel  to  the  pier  at 
Mayence  without  extra  charge.  The  steamer  crosses  from  Mayence  to 
Castel  l/i  hr.  before  the  departure  of  each  train. 

Hotels.  On  the  Rhine:  *Hof  von  Holland  (PI.  b;  F,  4),  Rhein- 
Str.  77,  R.  from  2  m.  40,  L.  50,  A.  70,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.  ;  *Rheini8cheb  Hof 
(PI.  a;  F,  4),  Rhein-Str.  61 ;  *Englischeb  Hof  (PI.  c;  F,G,4),  Rhein-Str.  89, 
B.  from  2y2  m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D.  3  m. :  these  three  are  of  the  first  class. 
—  Kolneb  Hof  (PI.  d;  D,  4),  Rhein-Str.  18,  R.  2*/t,  B.lm.;  Taunus  Hotel, 
Rhein-Str.  37,  D.  3  m.;  Stadt  Bonn,  Rhein-Str.  41:  Gebmania,  Rhein- 
Str.  43,  R.  2,  B.  1  m. ;  Stadt  Goblenz,  Rhein-Str.  49,  well  spoken  of; 
H6tel  de  Pabis,  Rhein-Str.  21,  R.  1V2-3,  D.  l>/«  m.,  well  spoken  of.  — 
In  the  Town:  *Kabpfen  (PI.  h;  F,  4),  opposite  the  post-office,  R.,  A.,  &  B. 
2  m.  65  pf.,  D.  2  m.  25  pf. ;  Landsbebq  (PI.  k;  F,  4),  Lohrgasse  29;  Hotel 
zdb  Post,  Brandgasse  14  (PI.  F,  4);  Pfalzeb  Hof,  close  to  the  station, 
within  the  Holzthor  (PI.  D,  4),  R.  1  m.  50  pf.,  with  restaurant.  —  At  Castel: 
Hotel  Babth  zum  Baben  (PI.  1;  G,  6);  *Anxeb  (PI.  n;  G,  6)),  good  beer; 
Hotel  Taunus  (PI.  m ;  G,  6). 

Bestaurants.  Wine.  *Fof*,  Falck,  Bickerle,  in  the  Theater-Platz  and 
the  Triton-Platz;  Bohland,  Emmeransgasse ;  Sch&dler,  Liebfrauen-Platc  7, 
with  an  old  German  drinking-room ;  Krauts,  Liebfrauen-Str.  3,  good  wine ; 
Hanaczik,  Jakobsberg  1,  good  cuisine;  "Rail.  Restaurant,  dear.  —  Bbeb. 
HeiUge  Geist,  near  the  Rhein-Str.  ;  *Jfeid,  Kastrich  55-57;  *  Sonne,  Betzel- 
Str.  23,  old  German  beer-room;  Orei/enklauer  Hof,  Emmeransgasse,  with 
garden  ;  *  Anker  Hotel  at  Castel,  see  above.  —  Cafes.  Cafi  de  Paris,  Theater- 
Plate,  with  restaurant;  cafe*  in  the  Neue  Anlage,  see  p.  145;  "Schard,  Do- 
minikaner-Str.,  near  the  theatre;  *Cafi  Neuf,  on  the  Insel  (PI.  F,  2),  with 
restaurant;  *Wocker,  at  the  station,  restaurant.  —  Confectioners.  Volk, 
Theater-Platz;  Schneider,  Betzel-Str.  25. 

Baths,  hot  and  cold,  near  the  station;  also  Swimming  Baths. 

Cabs.  One-horse  for  »/«  hr.,  1-2  pers.  50,  3-4  pers.  70  pf. ;  for  1  hr. 
2  m.  or  2  m.  30  pf. ;  each  box  20  pf.,  travelling-bag  10  pf.,  smaller  articles 
free;  Neue  Anlage  or  Cemetery  90  pf.  or  1  m.;  Zahlbach  or  Weisenau,  lm. 
or  lm.  20  pf. ;  to  Castel,  incl.  bridge-toll,  90  pf.  or  1  m.  —  Two-horse  about 
a  third  more.  For  each  hour  of  waiting  half  the  above  charges  per  hour; 
for  re  turn-journey  8  one-half  fare  more  than  the  single  journey.  In 
summer  double  fares  from  10  p.m.  to  6  a.m.;  in  winter  a  fare  and  a 
half  from  7  to  9  p.m.,  and  double  fares  from  9  p.m.  to  7.  30  a.m. 

Steamboat  to  Biebrich  every  x(i  hr.  in  summer,  starting  from  the  bridge- 
of-boats. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offloe  in  the  Brand,  opposite  the  Karpfen  (PI.  F,  4). 

Chief  Attractions.  Cathedral  and  its  monuments  (p.  138),  the  Guten- 
berg monument  (p.  141),  Eigelstein  (p.  143),  and  the  collection  of  Roman 
Antiquities  in  the  Palace  (p.  143);  spend  the  evening  in  the  new  Anlage 
(p.  145),  at  Wiesbaden  (p.  130),  or  in  the  Park  at  Biebrich  (p.  122). 

Mayence,  or  Mentz,  German  Mainz  (268  ft.),  a  strongly 
fortified  town  with  54,000  inhab.  (15,000  Prot. ,  5000  Jews)  and  a 
garrison  of  8000  soldiers,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Rhine,  opposite  and  below  the  influx  of  the  Main,  and  is  con- 
nected with  the  small  town  of  Castbl  on  the  opposite  bank  by  a 
bridge-of-boats.  The  old  streets  of  the  town  are  for  the  most  part 
narrow  and  crooked,  but  a  number  of  handsome  buildings  and  new 
streets  have  sprung  up  of  late,  while  ample  space  for  an  immense 
extension  of  the  town  has  been  afforded  by  the  recent  widening  of 
the  line  of  oircumvallation  (comp.  the  Plan). 

Mayence  is  historically  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  Rhenish 
towns.  Its  important  strategic  situation  has  in  all  ages  attracted  attention. 
The  town  and  its  most  ancient  name  ( Mogontiacum)  are  of  Celtic  origin. 


138     Route  22.  MAYENCE.  History. 

In  B.  G.  14  Augustus  sent  his  son-in-law  Drusus  to  the  Rhine  as  com- 
mander-in-chief, and  to  him  the  fortress  of  Mayence  owes  its  foundation. 
His  camp  (castrum)  occupied  the  entire  table-land  between  Mayence  and 
Zahlbach  (p.  143),  and  was  adjoined  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine  by  a 
colony  consisting  chiefly  of  traders  and  veterans.  In  order  more  effectually 
to  protect  the  passage  of  the  Rhine,  a  second  smaller  Castellum  was  soon 
afterwards  constructed  by  Drusus  on  the  opposite  bank,  whence  the  pre- 
sent Castel  derives  its  origin  and  name.  Mayence  was  the  seat  of  the  le- 
gate, or  governor,  of  Oermania  Superior. 

Authentic  accounts  prove  that  Christianity  flourished  at  Mayence  in 
the  early  Merovingian  period  (about  550),  and  the  town  afterwards  became 
a  bishopric.  Under  St.  Boniface  (or  Winfried,  d.  755),  the  apostle  of  Cen- 
tral Germany,  the  see  was  raised  to  an  archbishopric  and  made  the  seat 
of  the  primate  of  Germany.  This  prelate,  the  son  of  an  English  wheel- 
wright, was  so  little  ashamed  of  his  parentage  that  he  assumed  a  pair 
of  wheels  as  his  armorial  bearings,  which  are  retained  to  this  day  in 
the  arms  of  the  city.  In  1254  Arnold  Walpoden  (d.  1268),  a  citizen  of 
Mayence  and  the  chief  of  the  patrician  family  of  the  'Lowenhaupter', 
founded  the  League  of  the  Rhenish  Towns.  Mayence  became  the  centre 
and  leader  of  this  powerful  association,  which  ere  long  was  strengthened 
by  upwards  of  a  hundred  other  towns,  from  Bale  on  the  S.  to  Bremen 
and  Minister  on  the  N.  Such  was  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  town 
at  that  period  that  it  was  called  the  ' Go  1  dene  Mainz \  Two  centuries 
later,  however,  it  lost  most  of  its  extensive  privileges  in  consequence 
of  a  violent  attack  made  upon  it  by  Archbishop  Adolph  of  Nassau  in 
1462,  on  which  occasion  500  citizens  were  killed,  and  the  most  influential 
banished.  Thenceforth  the  once  independent  city  was  ruled  over  by  the 
archbishops.  Its  university,  founded  in  1477,  boasted  of  such  distinguished 
men  as  Nicholas  Vogt,  John  v.  Muller,  Bodmann,  and  George  Forster 
among  its  members,  but  it  was  suppressed  by  the  French. 

On  22nd  Oct.,  1792,  the  French  republicans  under  Custine  entered  the 
town  almost  without  a  blow,  but  it  was  retaken  the  following  year  by 
the  Prussians.  In  1797  it  was  ceded  to  France  by  the  Peace  of  Campo 
Formio,  and  became  the  capital  of  the  Department  of  Mont  Tonnerre. 
In  1814  it  was  assigned  to  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hessen.  The  Fortress  of 
Mayence  belonged  to  the  German  Confederation  down  to  1866,  Austria 
and  Prussia  having  the  joint  right  of  providing  the  garrison.  Since  1866 
the  works  have  been  considerably  strengthened  and  extended. 

Along  the  Rhine  extends  a  handsome  new  quay,  about  330  ft. 
in  breadth,  which  affords  a  pleasant  promenade. — Leaving  the  quay, 
we  cross  the  Liebfrauen-Platz,  in  which  is  theHauptwache  or  guard- 
house, and  the  Speisemarkt  (PL  E,  3),  adorned  with  a  fountain  of 
1526  in  the  Renaissance  style,  and  reach  the  cathedral,  the  princi- 
pal entrance  of  which  is  between  some  houses  here  (see  p.  140). 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  12;  E,  3)  was  built  under  Archbishop  Wil- 
ligis  (975-1011),  probably  as  an  enlargement  of  an  earlier  Fran- 
conian  church,  of  which  traces  may  be  seen  in  the  portal  on  the 
Liebfrauen-Platz,  but  was  burned  down  immediately  after  its  con- 
secration in  1009.  It  was  then  restored,  but  again  destroyed  by  fixe 
in  1081,  1137,  and  1181,  after  each  of  which  occasions  it  was  re- 
erected  on  a  grander  scale  than  before.  In  the  13th,  14th,  and  15th 
centuries  various  Gothio  additions  were  made  to  the  edifice.  In 
1767  it  was  injured  by  lightning ,  and  in  1793  again  damaged 
during  the  siege,  after  which  it  was  repeatedly  used  as  a  maga- 
zine. In  1814  it  was  at  length  repaired  and  restored  to  its  sacred 
uses.    A  thorough  restoration  of  the  E.  part  of  the  building  was 


Cathedral. 


MAYENCE. 


22.  Route.     139 


undertaken  some  yean  ago,  under  the  superintendence  of  Herr 
Cuypers  of  Amsterdam,  and  the  crypt  under  the  E.  choir,  the  Ro- 
manesque middle  tower,  which  occupies  the  place  of  a  Gothic  tower 
with  a  dome,  and  the  two  side- towers  have  already  been  finished. 
In  consequence  of  all  these  vicissitudes  the  church  possesses  great 
value  in  the  history  of  architecture.  In  its  present  form  it  con- 
sists of  nave  and  aisles 
with  chapels,  an  E.  and  a 
W.  Choir,  and  a  W.  tran- 
sept. The  new  central 
tower  and  the  picturesque 
W.  tower  above  the  cross 
present  an  imposing  ap- 
pearance. The  E.  round 
towers  date  from  the  early 
part  of  the  11th  cent. ;  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Godehard  at 
the  N.  end  dates  from 
1136  (p.  141);  the  slender 
pillars  of  the  nave,  each 
alternate  one  of  which  is 
provided  with  a  ressault, 
were  probably  erected  af- 
ter 1181  (when  the  build- 
ing was  destroyed  by  fire) ; 
the  pointed  vaulting  and 
the  W.  choir  were  built 
in  the  13th  cent.,  the  cha- 
pels in  the  13th-15th,  and 
the  handsome  cloisters  in 
1397-1412,  while  the  up- 
per part  of  the  principal 
W.  tower  was  restored  af- 
ter a  fire  in  1767. 

It  is  probable  that  the 
original  roof  of  the  cathe- 
dral of  Mayence  was  flat  and 
constructed  of  wood,  though 
it  is  also  possible  that  the 
nave  may  have  been  vaulted  as  at  Speyer.  The  remains  of  the  original 
building,  however,  are  too  scanty  to  afford  any  satisfactory  technical 
grounds  for  a  decisive  settlement  of  this  question. 

The  two  brazen  doors  at  the  entrance  from  the  market,  which 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Liebfrauenkirche  (a  church  taken  down  in 
1804),  were  executed  by  order  of  Archb.  Willigis  in  988,  as  the 
Latin  inscription  below  records.  On  the  upper  panels  are  inscrip- 
tions, engraved  in  1135,  enumerating  the  privileges  granted  to  the 
town  by  Archbishop  Adalbert  I.,  out  of  gratitude  for  his  liberation 
from  the  hands  of  Henry  V.  (p.  262). 


140     Route  22.  MAYENOE.  Cathedral. 

The  *Intbbiob  (open  in  the  morning  till  11.  30,  and  3-6  p.m.; 
ascent  of  the  tower  50  pf.),  the  vaulting  of  which  is  borne  by  56 
pillars,  is  174  yds.  long,  58  yds.  broad,  and  110  ft.  high  in  the 
nave.  The  vaulting  of  the  W.  choir,  nave,  and  aisles  has  been 
painted  dark  blue  and  richly  decorated,  the  dome  of  the  W.  choir 
and  the  nave  being  adorned  with  paintings.  The  Chapel  of  the  Vir- 
gin was  restored  in  the  Gothic  style  and  embellished  with  painting 
and  stained  glass  in  honour  of  Bishop  von  Ketteler's  25th  year  of 
office.  By  the  removal  of  the  whitewash  the  red  sandstone,  the  co- 
lour of  which  materially  enhances  the  architectural  forms,  has  been 
restored  to  light.    The  altar  stands  at  the  W.  end  of  the  church. 

The  *Mubal  Paintings  in  the  nave  and  the  W.  dome,  designed 
by  Phil.  Veit,  have  been  executed  since  1863  by  Hermann, 
Lasinsky,  and  Settegast. 

Dome:  Abel,  Melchisedech,  Abraham,  and  the  Lamb  of  God,  Fore- 
shadowings  of  the  Sacrifice.  —  Nave  (on  the  N.  and  S.  side  alternately) : 
Annunciation;  Adoration  of  the  Magi;  Presentation  in  the  Temple;  Flight 
into  Egypt-,  The  boy  Jesus  in  the  Temple;  Jesus  with  Joseph  in  the 
carpenters  shop ;  The  Baptism;  Marriage  at  Gana;  Jesus  and  the  adulteress; 
Sermon  on  the  Mount;  Christ  delivering  the  Keys  to  Peter;  Transfigura- 
tion ;  Raising  of  Lazarus ;  Last  Supper ;  Christ  on  the  Mi  of  Olives ;  lastly 
the  Mocking  of  Christ,  Bearing  the  Cross,  Crucifixion,  Entombment,  and 
Ascension,  which  are  to   be  executed  after  the  restoration  is  completed. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  interior  consists  of  the 
numerous  *  Tombstones  it  contains,  ranging  from  the  13th  to  the 
19th  century.  We  begin  to  the  right  of  the  principal  entrance 
from  the  Speisemarkt  (p.  136). 

N.  Tkansbpt.  The  Font,  cast  in  pewter,  with  reliefs  by  Meister 
Johannes,  in  1328,  has  been  temporarily  transferred  hither  from  the  E. 
choir.  Monuments  of  the  °  Von  Oablentz  family.  1592,  and  of  Canon 
Von  Breidenbach.  The  handsome  Portal  (closed),  in  the  transition-style, 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Heil.  Geistkirche.  The  altar  was  presented  in 
1601  by  Count  Henry  of  Nassau. 

N.  Aisle.  By  the  1st  pillar,  'Monument  of  Albert  of  Brandenburg, 
Elector  of  Mainz  and  Archbishop  of  Magdeburg  (the  statue,  and  especially 
the  head,  admirably  executed),  1545;  adjacent  is  his  tombstone,  by  the  same 
pillar.  In  a  chapel  opposite ,  the  monument  of  the  family  of  Brendel  von 
Hamburg,  a  well-executed  Adoration  of  the  Cross  in  stone,  156S.  By  the 
2nd  pillar,  Elector  Sebastian  v.  Heusenstamm,  1555.  By  the  3rd  pillar, 
Elector  Daniel  Brendel  v.  Hotnburg,  1582.  By  the  5th  pillar,  Elector  Wolf- 
gang v.  Dalbcrg,  1601.  By  the  7th  pillar,  Bishop  Humann,  1834.  Opposite, 
in  the  chapel  of  the  Waldbotts  v.  Bassenheim,  are  an  entombment  in  stone 
and  numerous  reliefs  in  marble.  By  the  altar  at  the  side,  St.  Boniface 
(p.  134) .  a  relief  of  1357.  By  the  10th  pillar,  Elector  Peter  v.  Aspelt,  or 
Aichspalt,  1320,  coloured,  leaning  with  his  right  hand  on  Henry  VII.  and 
with  his  left  on  Lewis  the  Bavarian,  the  two  emperors  crowned  by  him ; 
adjoining  him,  King  John  of  Bohemia. 

In  the  Pparbohob,  or  E.  Choir,  to  the  N.  (1.),  monument  of  Canon 
v.  Buchholz,  of  1609,  well  executed  in  stone.  The  monuments  of  Count 
Lamberg,  an  imperial  general  who  fell  at  the  siege  of  Mayence  in  1689, 
and  Landgrave  George  Christian  of  Hess  en  (1677),  formerly  here,  have  been 
temporarily  removed  to  the  aisles.  On  the  S.  side,  monument  (coloured) 
of  Archb.  Matthew  v.  Bucheck,  1328;  monument  of  Archb.  Siegfried  III.  v. 
Eppstein,  1249,  by  whom  Count  William  of  Holland  and  Landgrave  Hein- 
rich  Baspe  of  Thurfngen  were  crowned  as  Roman  Kings. 

Nave  (of  white  limestone,  painted  red  on  the  exterior).  By  the  8th 
pillar  on  the  S.  side  (or  the  2nd  to  the  left  when  we  approach  from  the 


Cathedral.  MAYENCE.  22.  Route.     141 

E.  choir),  Elector  Adolph  I.  of  Nassau,  1980;  opposite  (N.  side),  Elector 
John  II.  of  Nassau,  1419,  a  rich  Gothic  monument  By  the  6th  pillar 
on  the  N.  side,  ^Elector  Diether  v.  Isenburg,  1482.  Opposite  is  the  Pulpit, 
executed  in  stone  at  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.,  with  a  modern  covering 
in  wood.  By  the  4th  pillar  on  the  N.  side,  "Adalbert  of  Saxony,  administrator 
of  the  archbishopric.  1484,  with  a  simple  and  noble  figure  of  the  youthful 
prince.  Opposite  (8.  side),  ^Elector  Berthold  v.  Henneberg,  1504,  one  of 
the  finest  monuments  in  the  cathedral.  By  the  2nd  pillar  on  the  8.,  * 'Elector 
Jacob  v.  Liebenstein,  1506,  late-Gothic.  Opposite  (N.  side),  Elector  Uriel 
v.  Ocmminaen,  1514.  —  We  now  return  to  the  Pfarrchor  and  enter  the  — 

8.  Aislb.  By  the  9th  column,  Elector  Anteltn  Franz  v.  Ingelheim,  1696. 
By  the  7th  pillar,  * Elector  Damian  Hartard  v.  d.  Ley  en,  1678.  Bishop  Col- 
mar,  1818.  In  the  chapel  opposite  is  carved  work  on  a  gold  ground  re- 
presenting the  Twelve  Apostles  and  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  1514. 
To  the  left  of  the  handsome  entrance-portal  (12th  cent.)  to  the  'Memorie'  and 
Cloisters  (see  below)  a  Slab  is  built  into  the  wall  bearing  an  inscription  to 
the  memory  of  Fastrada  (or  Fastradana),  the  third  wife  of  Charlemagne ; 
she  died  at  Frankfort  in  794,  and  was  buried  there  in  the  church  of  St. 
Alban  which  was  destroyed  in  1552.  —  At  the  other  side  of  the  entrance 
is  the  monument  of  Canon  v.  Holzhausen,  an  Entombment  of  1588. 

The  8.  Tbansxpt  contains  several  monuments  to  prelates  of  the  18th 
cent,  and  also  that  of  George  v.  Schbnenburg,  Bishop  of  Worm*,  1529,  gilded 
and  painted.  A  fine  head  of  Saturn  on  the  monument  of  Canon  von  Brei- 
denbach-Bilrresheim  (1745),  and  the  noble  Gothic  monument  of  Archb. 
Conrad  II.  v.  Weintberg,  1396,  adjoining  the  W.  choir,  are  also  worthy 
of  notice. 

The  Bischofsghob,  or  W.  Choib,  separated  from  the  transepts  by  choir- 
stalls  erected  in  1767,  contains  nothing  of  interest.  Above  the  stalls  rise 
two  monuments  of  electors,  which  possess  little  artistic  merit.  In  the 
dome  are  the  paintings  already  mentioned  (p.  140).  From  the  8.  aisle  the 
late-Romanesque  (18th  cent.)  portal  above  noticed  (closed,  sacristan  for 
one  visitor  40-50  pf.)  leads  into  the  Komorie,  once  the  chapter-house  or 
episcopal  council-chamber,  erected  in  1243,  and  roofed  with  wide  groined 
vaulting.  To  the  right  here  is  the  old  entrance,  a  beautiful  Romanesque 
portal  of  the  11th  century.  By  the  W.  wall  (r.)  is  the  episcopal  throne 
in  stone.  Adjacent  are  several  monuments  of  the  years  1536,  1550,  and 
1558.  —  The  Gothic  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas ,  to  the  8.  of  the  Memorie, 
possesses  some  elegant  Gothic  ornamentation  of  the  14th  cent.,  choir-stalls 
in  the  Renaissance  style,  and  modern  stained  glass. 

The  'Oloiatara,  erected  in  1397-1412  in  the  Gothic  style,  also  contain 
several  monuments.  On  the  8.  wall  is  "Schwant  hater's  Monument  to 
Frauenlob,  a  female  figure  decorating  a  coffin  with  a  wreath,  erected  by 
the  ladies  of  Mayence  in  1842  to  Count  Heinrich  von  Meissen  (d.  1318), 
8urnamed  Frauenlob  (women's  praise),  'the  pious  minstrel  of  the  Holy 
Virgin,  and  of  female  virtue'.  Beyond  it,  on  the  £.  wall,  is  a  relief,  with 
good  heads,  brought  from  the  garden  of  the  Capuchins  in  1839,  and  prob- 
ably representing  the  submission  of  the  rebellious  citizens  of  Mayence  to 
the  Archbishop  in  1332.  Near  it  is  an  older  tombstone  of  Frauenlob, 
erected  in  1783,  a  copy  of  the  original  of  1318,  which  had  been  accidentally 
destroyed.  Here  too  is  the  tombstone  of  the  court-jester  Henne  Neffe, 
known  as  'Witze-Henne'  (d.  1467).  —  Good  view  of  the  towers. 

Between  the  N.  transept  of  the  cathedral  and  the  Markt,  concealed 
from  view  by  surrounding  buildings,  is  the  St.  OodehardscapeUe,  a  double 
church  with  aisles,  a  characteristic  Romanesque  building,  completed  in 
1136.  It  originally  formed  the  chapel  of  the  Archiepiscopal  palace,  but  is 
now  disused. 

Near  the  cathedral  is  the  Gutenberg's  Platz,  which  is  em- 
bellished with  a  *Statue  of  Gutenberg  (d.  1468 ;  PI.  24),  designed 
by  Thorvaldsen ,  executed  at  Paris,  and  erected  in  1837.  At  the 
sides  of  the  pedestal  are  two  reliefs.  The  inscription  at  the  back  by 
Ottfried  Miiller  runs  thus  :  — 


142     Routed.  MAYENOE.  Statue  of  Schiller. 

Artem  quae  Graecos  latuit,  latuitque  Latino*, 
Oermani  toilers  extudit  ingenium. 

Nunc,  quidquid  veteres  sapiunt  sapiuntque  recentes, 
Non  sibi,  sed  populis  omnibus  id  tapiunt. 
Johann  zdh  Gensfleisch,  surnamed  Gutenberg,  was  born  in  Ma- 
yence  about  the  end  of  the  14th  cent,  at  No.  23  Emmeransgasse,  or  iHof 
turn  QensfieiscK  as  it  is  called  by  the  inscription.  The  iHo/  sum  Outen- 
berg\  which  once  belonged  to  his  mother's  family,  now  the  'Civil  Casino' 
(PI.  4 ;  F,  3),  is  in  the  Schustergasse.  one  of  the  principal  business-streets 
of  the  town,  and  also  bears  an  inscription.  The  garden  contains  a  small 
Statue  of  the  inventor,  erected  in  1824.  Gutenberg's  first  printing-office 
was.  at  the  Hof  turn  Jungen,  Franziskanergasse  3,  near  the  Stadtstraase, 
and  that  of  Johann  Fust  and  Peter  SchSffer  at  the  Hof  turn  Humbrecht, 
Schustergasse  20,  both  indicated  by  memorial  tablets.  The  latter  possesses 
a  late-Gothic  staircase.  —  Although  the  Germans  are  justly  proud  of  Gu- 
tenberg as  an  independent  inventor  of  printing  (about  1440),  the  Dutch 
claim  for  their  countryman  Coster  of  Haarlem  the  honour  of  having  in- 
vented the  art  at  a  still  earlier  period  (1423);  but  there  is  no  foundation 
for  the  story  that  Gutenberg  learned  the  art  from  an  assistant  of  Coster. 
The  merit  of  original  discovery  probably  belongs  equally  to  both,  but 
Gutenberg  appears  to  have  been  much  more  successful  in  his  practice  of 
the  art  than  his  Dutch  contemporary. 

Opposite  the  monument  is  the  Theatre  (PI.  29  ;  F,  3),  erected  in 
1833.  Following  the  broad  Ludwigs-Strasse  from  the  theatre  towards 
the  W.,  we  reach  the  Schillbr-Platz  (PI.  F,  2),  planted  with  lime- 
trees,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Military  Government  Buildings,  and 
on  the  W.  by  the  Barracks  and  Military  Casino,  and  embellished 
with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Schiller  (PI.  25),  designed  by  Scholl,  and 
erected  in  1862.  The  Fountain  PiUar,  of  Felsberg  syenite  (p.  228), 
was  brought  from  the  palace  of  Charlemagne  at  Ingelheim  (p.  125). 

The  broad  Emmerich-Joseph-Strasse  ascends  from  the  Schiller- 
Platz  to  the  Kastrich,  an  eminence  on  which,  since  the  explosion  of 
a  powder-magazine  here  in  1857,  a  new  and  well-built  quarter  of 
the  town  has  sprung  up.  The  *Mathilden-Terras«e  here  (PI.  E, 
F,  1)  commands  an  extensive  view  of  the  town  and  environs. 

On  an  eminence  in  the  neighbourhood  rises  the  handsome  Gothic 
Church  of  St.  Stephen  (PI.  19;  E,  1,  2),  erected  in  1257-1318  on 
the  highest  site  in  the  town  (98  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  Rhine), 
and  tastefully  restored  after  the  explosion  mentioned  above.  It  con- 
sists of  nave  and  aisles  of  nearly  equal  height,  a  form  rarely  seen 
in  Rhenish  churches.  Among  the  objects  of  interest  it  contains  are 
the  bones  and  sacerdotal  vestments  of  Archbishop  Willigis,  several 
monuments  in  stone,  and  altar-pieces  by  Veit  over  the  altars  on  the 
left.  The  altars,  pulpit,  and  organ-loft,  in  gilded  and  varnished 
wood,  are  executed  in  the  Gothic  style.  Behind  the  high-altar  are  a 
late-Gothic  canopy  of  1500  and  four  bronze  candelabra  of  1509. 
The  octagonal  Tower,  216  ft.  in  height,  deserves  to  be  ascended  for 
the  sake  of  the  *View  it  commands.  Visitors  ring  near  the  flying 
buttress  to  the  right  of  the  N.  door  of  the  tower.  The  late-Gothic 
Cloisters,  dating  from  1499,  are  remarkable  for  their  tasteful  vault- 
ing and  windows. 

Within  the  Citadel  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  which  occupies  the  site  of  the 


EigeUtein.  MAYENGfi.  22.  Route.     143 

Roman  castrum,  is  the  *EigeIit«in  (PI.  6),  or  Eichelstein,  a  mon- 
ument said  by  tradition  to  have  been  erected  in  the  year  B.C.  9 
by  the  2nd  and  14th  Legions  in  honour  of  Drusus,  who  was  killed 
by  a  fall  from  his  horse.  The  name,  which  was  in  use  early  in  the 
middle  ages,  is  connected  with  the  Latin  aquila,  or  eagle.  The 
external  masonry  has  long  since  disappeared ,  and  the  monument 
has  undergone  many  changes  in  height  and  form.  At  the  beginning 
of  the  16th  cent,  it  was  82  ft.  high.  It  is  now  a  grey,  circular  mass 
of  stone,  42  ft.  in  height,  furnished  in  1698  with  a  spiral  staircase 
in  the  interior,  and  commanding  a  good  survey  of  the  town  and  en- 
virons from  the  summit.  Visitors  apply  for  admission  at  the  office 
of  the  'Commandantur',  Grosse  Bleiche  15,  and  are  then  accom- 
panied by  a  soldier  (fee  50  pf .). 

About  %Ik  H.  from  the  neighbouring  Gauthor  (PI.  C,  1),  outside  which 
we  take  the  first  road  to  the  right,  on  a  hill  to  the  right  of  the  village 
of  ZaMbach,  are  the  remains  of  another  interesting  Roman  structure,  an 
*  Aqueduct,  of  which  62  concrete  pillars,  some  of  them  90  ft.  high,  are 
still  standing.  By  this  channel  a  supply  of  water  for  the  use  of  the 
Roman  castle  was  conducted  to  a  reservoir  on  the  site  of  the  present 
Entenpfuhl  0  duck  pond1),  a  distance  of  about  6  M.  The  spring  called  the 
K&nigs-Born,  which  the  aqueduct  connected  with  the  Gastrum,  is  situated 
at  Finthen  (Fontanae)  on  the  road  to  Bingen,  5  M.  from  Hayence.  Several 
Roman  monuments,  found  in  the  Roman  military  cemetery  near  Zahlbach 
(see  p.  146) ,  are  now  preserved  in  the  so-called  EUerne  Thurm ,  Lohr- 
atraase  12. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Schiller-Platz ,  mentioned  at  p.  142,  runs 
the  Schillbb-Strassb  (PI.  F,  2),  near  the  upper  end  of  which,  on 
the  right,  are  the  Government  Buildings  (PI.  26).  To  the  E.  of  this 
point  stretches  the  broad,  straight,  and  regularly-built  Grosse  Bleiche 
(PI.  G,  2,  3),  leading  to  the  Rhine,  the  longest  street  in  Mayence, 
about  Va  M.  in  length.  On  the  N.  side  of  this  street  are  the  Re- 
sidence of  the  Commandant  (PI.  36)  and  the  old  Library  Building. 
In  the  small  square  to  the  left  is  the  Neubrunnen,  an  obelisk  with 
symbolic  reliefs  and  river-gods  and  lions  below,  erected  in  1726 
and  recently  restored.  The  building  with  the  gilt  horse  on  the 
gable,  farther  down  the  street,  formerly  the  electoral  stables,  is 
now  a  Cavalry  Barrack.  The  Lowenhof  Barrack  opposite  formerly 
contained  the  electoral  archives. 

On  the  right,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  street,  where  it  enters  the 
large  planted  Schloss-Platz,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Peter  (PI,  18), 
erected  in  1751,  and  restored  in  1873 ;  it  is  embellished  with  frescoes 
by  Appiani.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  Schloss-Platz,  which  lies  in  front 
of  the  church  and  is  used  as  a  drilling-ground,  rise  the  extensive 
infantry-barracks,  formerly  a  military  hospital  (PI.  H,  3,  4). 

The  Palace  (PI.  28;  H,  4),  erected  in  1627-78,  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  electors  down  to  1792,  and  during  the  French  war 
was  used  as  a  hay-magazine.  It  is  now  occupied  by  several  collec- 
tions. That  of  *Roman  Antiquities,  chiefly  consisting  of  objects 
found  at  Mayence  or  in  the  environs,  is  one  of  the  riohest  in  Ger- 
many.  The  *Roman-Germanic  Museum,  containing  reproductions 


144    Route  22.  MAYENCE.  Palace. 

of  the  most  interesting  ante-Christian  antiquities  of  Germany,  af- 
fords a  unique  survey  of  the  extant  monuments  of  this  kind,  and 
merits  careful  inspection.  Both  of  these  collections,  and  also  the 
Picture  Gallery,  are  open  on  Sundays  9-1,  and  Wednesdays  and 
Thursdays  2-5 ;  at  other  times  cards  of  admission  (1  m.  for  1-2 
pers.,  40  pf.  for  each  additional  pers.)  are  procured  from  the  custom- 
house officers  in  the  Rhein-Strasse  j  closed  on  holidays.  Short 
catalogue  of  all  the  collections,  1  m. 

The  Entrance,  indicated  by  an  inscription,  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
building,  in  the  Schlosa-Platz. 

"Roman  Antiquities.  The  Vestibule  contains  the  original  models  of 
Thorvaldten's  statue  of  Gutenberg  (p.  141)  and  SctoWs  statue  of  Schiller 
(p.  142),  and  an  altar  with  reliefs  of  various  divinities,  erected  by  the 
'Vicani  Hogontiacenses  vici  novi\  —  Beyond  this  we  enter  a  suite  of  four 
halls  containing  Roman  and  medieeval  monuments  in  stone  (Catalogue  of 
the  Roman  inscriptions,  2l/i  m.).  Hall  I.  Roman  altars  and  tombstones ; 
222,  167,  169.  Military  tombstones,  with  reliefs;  some  pillars  from  the 
bridge  over  the  Rhine  built  by  Charlemagne  (p.  145).  —  Hall  II.  241, 
242,  247.  Tombstones,  found  in  the  Mitternachts-Platz  at  Hayence.  — 
Hall  III.  Tombstone  of  Blussus,  a  ship-master,  with  reliefs  of  himself,  his 
wife,  and  child  on  the  one  side,  and  his  vessel  on  the  other.  —  Hall  IV. 
Medieeval  objects,  including  reliefs  of  the  seven  electors,  of  Emp.  Henry 
VII.,  and  of  St.  Martin,  dating  from  1312,  brought  from  the  old  Merchants' 
Hall;  Jewish  tombstones  of  the  13th  and  14th  centuries.  —  Returning  to 
Hall  I.  and  crossing  the  staircase  (see  below),  we  next  reach  — 

Room  I.,  which  also  contains  medieeval  objects  (armorial  bearings, 
weapons,  vases)  and  a  model  in  cork  of  the  Roman  amphitheatre  at  Nimes. 
—  Room  II.,  adjoining  this  on  the  right,  contains  Germanic  antiquities, 
flint  knives,  axes ;  vessels  of  clay  from  Heideaheim  and  Molsheim. 

Room  III.  contains  in  glass-cabinets  and  cases  the  smaller  Roman  and 
Germanic  antiquities.  We  first  inspect  the  Roman  section,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  room.  By  the  first  window ;  pieces  of  leather  and  cloth,  in  frames. 
Iu  a  glass-case :  sandals,  found  in  excavations  in  the  Schiller-Plats.  By  the 
second  window :  remains  of  a  goblet  in  perforated  work  ('vas  diatretunT), 
found  at  Hohensiilzen.  In  the  glass-case  in  front:  glass  vessels,  bottle 
with  chased  Bacchic  scenes,  from  a  tomb  at  Hohensiilzen;  to  the  right, 
head  in  bronze;  chariot  with  figure  in  bronze-gilt;  weapons  and  utensils 
of  various  kinds.  Below  a  large  glass-covering:  the  tombs  of  five  legion- 
aries. —  The  Germanic  and  Franconian  antiquities  occupy  the  right  side  of 
the  room.  Entire  tomb  of  a  German  woman,  from  Oberolm.  On  a  stand, 
under  glass,  is  a  gold  enamelled  'Fibula',  with  the  Roman  eagle,  found  in 
the  Stadthaus-Str.  in  1830.  The  cabinets  contain  an  extensive  collection 
of  Franconian  enamels,  inlaid  rings,  and  weapons.  —  We  next  enter  the  — 

*Roman-Gormanic  Museum.  Room  I.  Tools  of  flint  and  bone,  urns, 
bronze  implements.  Brazen  and  stone  moulds  for  bronze  knives  and  'celts'. 
Casts  of  the  Porta  Nigra  at  Treves  (p.  162),  of  the  Igel  Monument  (p.  167), 
and  of  the  Roman  chariot-wheels  found  at  8peyer ;  model  of  a  lake-dwell- 
ing ;  models  of  altars,  a  'Heidenschanze'  (such  as  the  Heidenmauer  men- 
tioned at  p.  132),  and  tombs.  Etruscan  utensils  found  to  the  K.  of  the 
Alps.  Small  bronze  chariot  with  figures  of  men  and  animals,  found  in  a 
tomb  at  Judenburg  in  Styria,  and  probably  used  as  a  stand  for  some  kind 
of  vessel;  objects  from  tombs  at  Rodenbach  and  Durkheim.  Two  golden 
hats  (?),  of  similar  workmanship,  the  one  found  at  Schifferstadt  near  Speyer, 
the  other  at  Corinth ;  Chariot  ('Kesselwagen')  from  Peckatel  in  Mecklen- 
burg. In  the  cases :  Weapons,  armour,  war-trumpets.  Above,  Albanian  urn 
in  the  form  of  a  house.  Two  idols  from  Wurtemberg.  Model  of  a  Roman 
catapult.  —  Room  II.  In  the  connecting  passage :  Phalerss  (military  orna- 
ments), found  at  Lauersfort.  Above  one  of  the  cases:  Roman  horse-trap- 
pings. Figure  of  a  Roman  legionary  in  full  uniform.  Tomb-stones.  Exten- 
sive collection  of  Roman  weapons,  implements,  and  ornaments.  —  Rook  III. 


Neue  Anlage.  MAYENCE.  22.  Route.     145 

Franconian  weapons,  implements,  and  ornament*.  Models  of  tombs.  Wea- 
pons and  ornaments  from  the  tomb  of  King  Cbilderic  I.,  discovered  at 
Tournai  in  1655  and  now  at  Paris. 

We  now  ascend  the  staircase  mentioned  above  and  reach,  on  the  left, 
the  entrance  to  the  Picture  Gallery  on  the  second  floor.  The  best  pictures 
were  presented  by  Napoleon  I.,  but  there  are  few  of  great  value.  —Rooh  I., 
with  ante-room:  Modern  pictures,  chiefly  belonging  to  the  Art  Union.  — 
Rooms  II  and  III.  Netherlandish  Works:  90.  Mierevelt,  Don  Buy  Gomez, 
Spanish  secretary  of  state;  80.  8.  Ho/mann,  Kitchen  of  a  prince.  —  Boon  III. : 
55,  F.  Bol,  Abraham  on  Mi  Moriah.  —  Booms  IV.  and  V.  Italian  and  Span- 
ish Masters:  168.  Lor.  di  Credit  Madonna;  *170,  171,  172.  Gaud.  Ferrari, 
St  Jerome  in  a  landscape,  Adoration  of  the  Infant,  The  young  Tobias  (three 
admirable  pictures,  forming  a  winged  altar-piece);  187.  Guido  Rtni.  Bape 
of  Europa;  i$3.  Schidone,  Visitation;  195.  Titian,  Bacchanalian;  198.  Fe- 
netian  School,  Filial  love ;  213.  Murillo,  Duck-stealer ;  217.  Velazquez,  Head 
of  a  cardinal.  In  the  centre  of  Room  V.  is  an  astronomical  clock  (of 
the  beginning  of  this  century).  —  Book  VI.  German  Masters  of  the  17th 
and  18th  cent,  including  several  natives  of  Mayence.  —  Room  VII.  Ne- 
therlandish Masters:  *2t».  Jordaens,  Christ  among  the  doctors.  —  Boom 
VIII.  Old  German  School:  294.  Early  Copy  o/DHrer,  Adam  and  Eve  (ori- 
ginal at  Madrid);  299-307.  Grtinewald,  The  nine  beatitudes  of  Mary.  — 
Boom  IX.  French  Masters:  335.  Jac.  van  Artois,  Foundation  of  the  Char- 
treuse, a  large  landscape,  the  figure  of  St  Bruno  by  Le  Sueur;  345-348. 
Ranueei  after  Claude  Lorrain,  Four  periods  of  the  day.  painted  for  the 
Empress  Josephine  in  1812  (original  at  St.  Petersburg);  349,350.  Mignard, 
Poetry,  History,-  Painting,  and  the  God  of  Time.  —  Boom  X.  (Balcony 
Boom).    Water-colours,  drawings,  chalks,  etc. 

Opposite  the  picture-gallery,  on  the  other  side  of  the  landing  of  the 
staircase,  we  pass  through  two  rooms  containing  casts  from  the  antique, 
and  enter  the  Akadbmie-Saal,  built  by  F.  Karl  v.  Erthal,  the  last  elec- 
tor, in  1775,  with  ceiling-painting  by  Januariu*  Zick  of  Coblenz.  Opposite 
the  portrait  of  the  founder  is  that  of  Grand  Duke  Lewis  II.,  by  E.  Heuu. 

The  Library  and  the  collection  of  coins  occupy  the  second  and  third 
floors  of  the  W.  wing.  The  former  consists  of  130,000  vols.,  including  early 
impressions  by  Gutenberg,  Fust,  and  Schoffer,  from  1469  onwards.  The 
reading-room  contains  portraits  of  eighteen  electors.  —  The  Coins  include 
a  fall  set  of  those  of  Mayence,  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne  down  to  the 
overthrow  of  the  electoral  sway.  —  The  collection  of  the  Natural  History 
Sooibtt  on'  the  3rd  and  4th  floors  is  extensive  and  well  arranged,  the  bio- 
logical collection  of  insects  being  particularly  interesting. 

Opposite  the  Electoral  Palace ,  to  the  S. ,  is  the  Palace  of  the 
Grand  Duke  (PI.  5;  G,4),  formerly  a  Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  built 
at  the  beginning  of  th6  18th  cent.,  and  connected  with  it  is  the  Ar- 
senal (PI.  41),  which  was  erected  by  Elector  Philip  Charles  in  1736. 

A  Bridge-of-Boats  (PI.  G,  4,  5),  Vs  M-  in  length,  connects 
Mayence  and  Castel.  A  new  permanent  bridge  is  to  be  built  a  little 
lower  down.  The  remains  of  the  pillars  of  a  bridge  constructed  hy 
Charlemagne  in  793-803,  formerly  visible  here  when  the  river  was 
low,  have  been  removed  ("see  p.  144).  —  Castel,  see  p.  137. 

The  fHeue  Anlage  (PI.  A,  B,  3,  4;  restaurant),  or  public 
promenade,  on  a  slight  eminence  near  the  Neuthor  (PI.  C,  D,  3), 
oh  the  S.E.  side  of  the  town,  occupies  the  site  of  'the  electoral 
chateau  of  Favorite 7  where  on  25th  July,  1792,  the  well-known 
manifesto  of  the  Duke  of  Brunswick  to  the  French  nation  was 
framed  by  a  large  assembly  of  princes.  The  grounds  command  a 
view  of  the  town ,  the  river ,'  and  the  Taunus  Mts.  The  grounds 
are  intersected  by  the  railways  to  Darmstadt  and  Ludwigshafeu. 

Baedeker^  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  10 


146     Route  23.  KREUZNACH.  From  Bingerbriick 

The  former  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  Railway  Bridge  (PL  A,  5,  6), 
which  lies  obliquely  between  the  Mayence  bank  and  the  opposite 
'Mainspitze'.  This  bridge,  which  is  altogether  1410  yds  in  length, 
was  constructed  in  1862  on  Pauli's  ('fish-belly')  system.  It  consists 
of  four  arches,  each  about  137  yds.  in  span,  beyond  which  towards 
the  E.  bank,  it  is  continued  by  the  so-called  Fluthbrilcke  ('flood- 
bridge'),  resting  on  buttresses.  A  walk  across  the  railway-bridge 
is  also  recommended ,  but  the  best  survey  is  obtained  from  the 
towers  (fee  50  pf.). 

The  new  Wallstrasse  (PI.  G,  H,  1,  2),  extending  along  the  site 
of  the  former  fortifications  from  the  Binger  Thor  to  the  Hartenberg, 
and  planted  with  four  rows  of  trees,  commands  a  striking  view  of 
Wiesbaden,  the  Taunus,  and  the  Rheingau. 

The  Cemetery,  which  was  once  the  burial-ground  of  the  Roman 
legions  and  of  the  earliest  Christian  church  (St.  Aureus),  lies  to  the  W., 
outside  the  Munsterthor  (PI.  G,  1 ;  cab,  see  p.  137).  It  occupies  an  emi- 
nence near  ZahVbach  (p.  143) ,  and  deserves  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  its  sit- 
uation and  its  tasteful  arrangement. 

23.  From  Bingerbriick  to  Kreuznach,  Saarbrucken, 
and  Metz. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  102. 

137  M.  Railway  to  Neunkirchen  in  2l/*-3l/i  hrs.,  to  SaarbrUcken  in  V*  br. 
more*,  thence  to  Metz  IV2  hr.  (fares  to  Saarbrucken  11  m.  50,  8  m.  70,  5  m. 
80  pf.  ;  to  Mete  17  m.  90,  13  m.  10,  8  m.  70  pf.). 

The  line  begins  at  Bingerbruck  (p.  115),  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Nahe,  skirts  the  Hunsriicken  mountains ,  traverses  vineyards  and 
a  fertile  district,  and  passes  several  small  stations,  the  most  impor- 
tant of  which  is  (5  M.)  Langenlonsheim  (Berliner  Hof).  Then  (7  M.) 
Bretzenheim,  l*/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  which  is  a  hermitage  with  a  church 
hewn  in  the  solid  rock. 

10  M.  Kreuznach.  —  The  station  is  y*  X.  from  the  town,  and  1  M. 
from  the  Curhaus.  Hotel -omnibuses  and  cabs  await  the  arrival  of  the 
trains.  Cab  with  two  horses  for  1-2  pers.  1  m.,  with  one  horse  80  pf.,  for 
each  additional  person  25  pf.  —  In  summer  most  of  the  trains  also  stop  at 
the  Baltestelle  am  Bad,  a  small  station,  V2  M-  from  the  Curhaus.  not  re- 
recommended  to  those  arriving  for  the  first  time.  It  has  no  booking-office 
for  luggage. 

Hotels.  In  the  town,  Pfalzer  Hof,  next  the  post-office ,  R.  2  m.  50, 
B.  1  m.,  A.  50  pf.,  well  spoken  of;  Adlkk,  Hochstrasse.  both  with  gar- 
dens; Berliner  Hof,  at  the  Kornmarkt;  Taube,  R.  and  B.  lm.  80  pf. ;  Wbis- 
8E8  Ross;  Huff^  Goldene  Krone,  near  the  post-office;  the  last  four  un- 
pretending, and  all  often  crowded  in  the  height  of  summer.  Bath-houses 
and  hotels  in  and  near  the  Bade-Insel,  for  patients,  closed  in  winter:  Ccn- 
haus,  Enqlischek  Hof,  Kauzenbbbq,  Obanienhof,  Dhiil-Schmidt,  Hof  vow 
Holland,  Ecropaischer  Hof,  Hotel  Royal,  H6tkl  Riedkl,  Grand  H6tel 
du  Nord,  opposite  the  Elisabeth-Quelle,  Stadt  Hamburg,  Dr.  Schultz's 
Private  Baths,  etc.,  and  many  other  lodging-houses,  nearly  all  with  baths. 
An  ordinary  salt  bath  costs  1  m.  20  pf. 

Restaurants,  with  gardens  :  SchQnewolf,  Gurhaus-Str..  music  frequently 
in  summer;  Hoffmann,  Gravius,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe;  Clilsse- 
rath,  confectioner,  with  cafg-restaurant,  near  the  iron  bridge ;  Zur  Kauerau, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nahe,  reached  by  a  foot-bridge  (removed  in  winter). 


to  Metz. 


KREUZNACH. 


23.  Route.     147 


Carriages  to  the  following  places  and  back,  with  2  hrs.  stay. 


Bheingrafen- 
stein .  .   .   . 


1-horse 
m.  pf. 


7  — 


10- 


2-horse 

1-horse 

2-horse 

m.  pf. 

7,50 

Munster.  .  .   . 
Munster  (with- 

m.  pf. 
5- 

m.  pf. 
7,60 

out  returning) 

2,fi0 

3,50 

10,50 

Ebernburg  or 

Altenbaumburg 

6  — 

9  — 

Rothenfels  or 

Disibodenberg 

9  — 

12  - 

Sehloss  Dhann 

18- 

24  — 

.13,60 

Per  hour  .   .  . 

2,50 

3,60 

Rheingrafen- 
stein  via  Miin- 
ster 

Rheingrafen- 
stein, Munster, 
and  the  Ebern- 
burg   

Visitors'  Tax.  The  'Brunnen  Karte'  for  the  season  costs  for  one  pers. 
10,  for  2  pers.  of  the  same  family  16  m.;  each  additional  pers.  3  m.  more; 
single  ticket  admitting  to  the  grounds  of  the  Curhaus  50  pf. 

Musis  every  forenoon  and  afternoon  at  the  Curhaus  or  the  spring. 
Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  3),  near  the  N.  (Binger)  Thor. 
Donkeys  at  the  Curhaus.  To  the  following  places  and  back,  with  halt 
of  xli  day :  Munster  am  Stein  3,  Bheingrafenstein  3,  Ebernburg  3,  Rothen- 
fels 3  m.  —  By  time :  first  hour  In.,  each  additional  hr.  50  pf. 
English  Ohureh  Service  during  the  season. 

Kreumach  (340  ft.),  which  from  the  13th  to  the  15th  cent,  was 
the  capital  of  the  County  of  Sponheim ,  then  belonged  to  the  Pala- 
tinate, and  since  1814  has  been  Prussian ,  lies  on  the  Nahe,  about 
10  M.  from  the  Rhine.  Pop.  15,500,  of  whom  one-third  are  Roman 
Catholics.  The  river  separates  the  AUstadt,  with  the  larger  Protes- 
tant church  (PI.  6),  on  the  right  bank,  from  the  Neustadt,  with 
the  Roman  Catholic  church  (PI.  7),  on  the  left,  and  above  the 
town  forms  the  Bade-Insel ,  or  Bath  Island  (see  below).  A  stone 
bridge  ,  on  the  buttresses  of  which  several  houses  are  built,  crosses 
the  lower  part  of  the  island ,  affording  a  picturesque  view,  and 
unites  the  three  different  parts  of  the  town.  The  Protestant  Church 
(PI.  5)  on  the  island,  near  the  bridge,  was  consecrated  in  1777,  to 
replace  an  earlier  edifice  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in 
1689.  The  ruins  of  the  Gothic  choir  of  the  latter,  dating  from  1330, 
were  fitted  up  as  an  English  Chapel  in  1857-63  (PI.  8).  Adjoining 
the  church  is  the  marble  statue  of  Dr.  Prieger  (d.  1863),  by  whom 
the  baths  were  first  brought  into  notice,  by  Caner.  The  Protestant 
School,  in  the  Kreuz-Strasse,  contains  a  few  antiquities. 

Kreuznach  has  lately  become  a  watering-place  of  considerable 
repute,  and  is  visited  by  upwards  of  6000  patients  annually.  The 
Salt  Baths,  which  are  particularly  beneficial  in  cases  of  scrofula  and 
cutaneous  diseases ,  are  situated  on  and  near  the  Bade-Insel,  or 
Badeworth,  where  a  new  and  attractive  quarter  of  the  town  has  sprung 
up.  The  prinoipal  street,  flanked  with  hotels,  lodging-houses,  and 
gardens ,  leads  from  the  church  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  Cur- 
haua,  with  the  Badehaus  or  Bath  House,  built  in  1872,  and  forming 
the  rendezvous  of  patients  and  visitors.  Many  of  the  former  drink 
the  waters  of  the  Elisabeth-Quelle,  a  spring  containing  bromine  and 
iodine,  and  rising  from  the  porphyry  rock  at  the  S.  end  of  the  is- 
land.   In  bad  weather  the  promenaders  take  shelter  in  a  covered 

10*      * 


148     Route  23.  MUNSTER.  From  Bingerbruck 

walk,  130  yds.  long.    The  agate  wares  of  Oberstein  (p.  153)  are 
among,  the  most  attractive  of  the  various  objects  offered  for  sale  here. 

Opposite  the  Curhaus  an  iron  bridge  crosses  the  narrower  arm 
of  the  Nahe  and  connects  the  island  with  another  new  quarter,  con- 
sisting of  bath  and  lodging-houses ,  which  has  recently  sprung  up 
on  the  right  bank.  The  road  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  the  Haltc- 
8 telle,  mentioned  above,  Y2  M.  from  the  Curhaus.  Near  this  station 
(on  the  left)  is  the  studio  (PI.  2)  of  the  Messrs.  Cauer,  who  are 
well  known  for  their  skilful  treatment  of  subjects  from  the  world  of 
romance  ('Dornroschen',  'Aschenbrodel',  etc.).  The  sculptors  are, 
however,  almost  always  at  Rome.  Many  of  the  monuments  in  the 
cemetery,  which  lies  on  the  road  to  Hackenheim,  are  by  these 
sculptors,  including  a  memorial  of  the  war  of  1870-71  by  Robert 
Oauer. 

On  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nahe,  rises 
the  Schlossberg(500  ft.),  a  hill  laid  out  as  private  pleasure-grounds. 
The  vineyards  on  its  S.  slopes  yield  an  excellent  wine,  called 
'Kauzenberger'.  Shady  walks  ascend  the  hill  from  the  old  bridge 
over  the  Nahe  (entrance  from  the  lane  at  the  back  of  the  fountain, 
fee  to  gate-keeper).  The  ascent  may  also  be  made  from  the 
Kaiserau  (p.  146)  in  Y4  hr.  The  summit,  crowned  by  the  ruined 
castle  of  Kauzenberg,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Sponheim  family, 
which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  valley  from  the  Rheingrafenstein  to  Bingen.  A  lion  hewn  in 
stone,  brought  here  from  Dhaun  (p.  152),  commemorates  the  gallant 
conduct  of  Michel  Mort,  a  butcher  of  Kreuznach,  who  sacrificed  his 
life  in  a  battle  against  Archbishop  Werner  of  Mayence  in  1279,  to 
save  his  Prince,  Johann  von  Sponheim.  The  traveller  may  now 
walk  along  the  top  of  the  hill  and  descend  to  the  ferry  above  the 
bath-island. 

About  1  M.  above  Kreuznach  are  situated  the  saline  springs 
and  salt-works  (with  bath-house)  of  Garlihalle  and  Theodorshalle 
{Hotel  Bees,  and  others ;  R.  10-15  m.  per  week ;  Restaurant  in 
the  Ourgarten ;  Refreshments*  at  the  forester's  house  in  the  wood). 
About  2y2  M.  farther  on  lies  — 

Munster  am  Stein.  —  Hotels.  "Cobhaub;  *H6tel  BAum;  H6tel 
Low;  Stolzbnfels,  well  spoken  of;  Adleb;  Pabiseb  Hof.  Numeroua 
private  hotels. 

Restaurants.  Cursaal;  Trumni's  Restaurant,  in  the  Huttenthal,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Nahe  (see  below). 

Visitors'  Tax  the  same  as  at  Kreuznach. 

Munster  am  Stein  (370  ft.;  rail,  stat.,  seep.  150),  a  village 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Rheingrafenstein  and  the  Gans, 
also  possesses  salt-springs,  and  has  of  late  years  acquired  impor- 
tance as  a  watering-place.  The  waters  of  the  principal  salt-spring 
(87°)  are  conducted  directly  to  the  baths,  which  are  well  fitted  up. 
The  Curgarten  is  connected  with  the  springs  by  a  covered  way. 

The  *  Rheingrafenstein  (803  ft.),  a  picturesque  cliff  of  por? 


KREUZNACH 


to  Mtiz.  RHEINGRAFENSTEIN.  23.  Route.     149 

phyry ,  here  rises  432  ft.  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  Nahe. 
The  river  should  he  crossed  by  the  ferry  near  the  saline  springs, 
and  the  Huttcnthal  ascended  for  about  74^*>  when  &  good  new 
path  diverges  to  the  right  and  leads  to  the  ruin  in  V2  nr*  (flne 
view).  The  boldly-situated  ruined  castle,  built  in  the  11th  cent., 
once  the  residence  of  the 'Rheingrafen' (Rhenish  counts),  was  blown 
up  by  the  French  in  1789.  The  new  chateau,  farm-buildings, 
etc.,  are  the  property  of  the  Duchess  of  Ossuna,  daughter  of  Prince 
v.  S aim- S aim  (d.  1842),  a  descendant  of  the  Rheingrafen. 

The  *Gaa8  (1024  ft.),  an  indented  ridge  of  porphyry,  %  M.  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  Rheingrafenstein,  commands  a  more  extensive  view, 
embracing  the  Nahethal  as  far  as  Bingen  and  part  of  the  Rheingau. 
At  the  top  are  an  iron  indicator  and  a  conspicuous  pavilion,  for 
which  visitors  are  indebted  to  the  liberality  of  a  Dutch  lady. 

From  Kreuznach  to  the  Gang,  Rhkinorafekstkin,  and  Munstek  am 
Stein  a  beautiful  walk  of  2l/4-2V«  hrs. ,  a  route  hardly  to  be  mistaken. 
Following  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  from  the  'Haltestelle' ,  and 
passing  a  rock-cellar,  we  reach  the  conspicuous  'Tempelchen1  on  the 
Kuhberg  in  */«  br. ,  about  100  paces  beyond  which  a  path  diverges 
through  the  wood  to  the  right,  leading  to  the  (V<  hr.)  Rheingra/ensteiner 
Ho/.  Several  footpaths  ascend  hence  to  the  Gans.  The  route  from  the 
latter  to  the  Rheingrafenstein  is  by  a  field-road  towards  the  S.  provided 
with  a  direction-post,  and  leading  through  the  wood  to  the  ruin,  to  which 
steps  ascend.  Descent  to  the  Nahe  through  the  Huttenthal,  see  above. 
To  the  left,  about  halfway  down,  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to  the 
Altenbaumburg  (see  below). 

Opposite  the  Rheingrafenstein ,  to  the  W. ,  rises  the  ruined 
*Ebernburg,  once  the  stronghold  of  Franz  von  Sickingen  (b.  1481, 
d.  1523),  and  at  that  time  often  an  asylum  for  outlaws  and  fugitives. 
Under  his  roof  several  of  the  early  Reformers  found  shelter,  and 
Ulrich  von  Hutten  here  composed  (1520-22)  his  letters  to  Charles  V., 
to  the  German  nobility,  and  the  German  nation.  The  castle  was 
fortified  by  the  French  in  1689 ,  but  in  consequence  of  the  Peace 
of  Ryswyk  in  1698  it  was  again  dismantled.  The  ruin  remained 
in  the  possession  of  the  Sickingens  till  1750,  when  it  was  annexed 
to  the  Palatinate.  Out  of  the  ruins  rises  a  quaint,  pinnacled  building, 
fitted  up  as  an  inn ,  and  embellished  with  portraits  of  Sickingen 
and  his  wife,  Ulrich  von  Hutten,  and  others.  Old  weapons  and 
bullets,  which  have  been  dug  up,  are  preserved  in  the  castle-yard. 
Fine  prospect. 

The  view  from  the  *Rothenfels  (918  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  barren 
red  porphyry  cliff  21/2  M.  from  Kreuznach,  surpasses  those  from  the 
Gans  and  Ebernburg,  as  it  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Nahe  as  far 
as  the  Lemberg,  and  the  Alsenzthal  as  far  as  the  Moschellandsberg. 
A  charming  excursion  from  Miinster  am  Stein  is  through  the  Hutten- 
thal y  a  valley  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Nahe  (ferry ,  already  mention- 
ed), then  across  arable  land,  and  finally  through  beautiful  woods,  to  the 
(I1/4  hr.)  *  Altenbaumburg  ('Restaurant) ,  an  extensive  ruined  castle  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1669,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  ancient  'Raugrafen\ 
and  formerly  called  the  Boyneburg ,  or  Croneburg.  Another  route  is  by 
railway  to  Altenbamberg  (see  below)  and  then  on  foot  to  (25  miu.)  the  Alten- 
baumburg.   —   *Sehlosa  Xontfort  may  be  reached  from  Miinster,  by  the 


150     Route  23.  ALSENZ.  From  Bingerbruck 

Ebernburg  and  Bingert,  in  2  hours.  The  extensive  castle  (refreshments  at 
the  Montforter  Bo/),  once  a  robber's  stronghold,  was  destroyed  in  the 
16th  century.  Turning  to  the  right  from  Bingert,  the  traveller  may  ascend 
to  the  summit  of  the  Lemberg  (1312  ft.) ,  which  rises  precipitously  from 
the  Nahe  and  commands  an  extensive  panorama.  Restaurant  at  the  top, 
open  in  summer  two  days  weekly.  The  descent  may  be  made  by  a  good 
path  to  the  (20  min.)  Oberhausen  ferry,  whence  stat.  Waldbdckelheim 
(see  below)  is  reached  in  7*  hr.  —  The  Lemberg  may  also-  be  ascended 
from  stat.  Niederhausen,  with  a  guide,  in  l'/z  hr. 

The  finest  of  the  more  distant  excursions  from  Kreuznach  are 
to  the  Disibodenberg  (p.  151),  Schloss  Dhaun  (p.  152),  and  Oberstein 
(p.  153),  all  of  which  are  easily  reached  with  the  aid  of  the  railway 
(carriages,  see  p.  147).  The  Donnersberg ,  see  p.  248.  —  From 
Kreuznach  to  Bacharach  by  Stromberg,  see  p.  111. 


Railway  to  SaarbbUcsbn  and  Mbtz.  The  district  between 
Kreuznach  and  Waldbockelheim  (see  below)  and  the  neighbourhood 
of  Oberstein  are  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  the  line.  Leaving 
the  principal  station  at  Kreuznach,  the  train  crosses  the  Nahe,  stops 
at  the  Haliestelle  am  Bad  (p.  146),  and  skirts  the  base  of  the  Gans 
(p.  149).  To  the  left,  where  the  train  next  crosses  the  Nahe,  rise 
the  two  curious  pinnacles  of  the  Rheingrafenstein  (p.  148). 

12V2  M.  Monster  am  Stein  (370  ft.),  see  p.  148. 

From  Munstkr  ah  Stein  to  Kaisers lautern,  37>/2  M.,  railway  in 
2»/4  hrs.  (fares  4  m.  80,  3  m.  20,  2  m.  5  pf).  The  line  crosses  the  Nahe, 
which  here  forms  the  boundary  between  Prussia  and  Bavaria,  and  beyond 
(V2  M.)  Ebernburg ,  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  of  that  name 
(p.  149),  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Alsenz.  —  2'/t  M.  Altenbamberg  lies  at 
the  foot  of  the  Altenbaumburg  (see  above). 

7  M.  Aliens  (Post),  a  village  with  a  coal-mine.  From  Alsenz  to  (472  M.) 
Qaugrehtveiler,  diligence  twice  a  day;  then  on  foot  through  the  valley  of 
the  Appel  to  Iben  and  via  WonsTteim  to  Flonheim  (comp.  p.  247).  —  In  a 

{feasant  lateral  valley  to  the  W.  of  Alsenz  (3  M.,  diligence  thrice  daily) 
ies  the  small  town  of  Obermoschel  (Knobloch),  with  the  large  ruined  castle 
of  Landsberg,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689.  Diligence  hence 
twice  a  day  to  (V/2  M.)  Meisenheim  (p.  151).  —  On  the  hill  to  the  right  of 
(97*  M.)  Mannweiler  is  the  ruin  of  Randeck.    12  M.  Dielkirchen. 

14  M.  Kockenhausen  (Deutsche*  Bans),  a  considerable  village,  the  best 
starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  the  Donnersberg  (see  p.  248). 

20  M.  Winnweiler  (Zum  Donnersberg),  an  industrious  village,  with 
iron-works  and  a  copper-foundry,  near  the  picturesque  Falkensteiner  Thai, 
with  the  ruin  of  Falkenstein.  —  22  M.  Langmeil-MUnchweiUr,  junction  for 
the  line  from  Langmeil  to  Harnheim  (see  p.  248).  —  25  M.  Sembach-Neu- 
hemsbach;  27  M.  Enkenbach;  31  M.  Hochspeyer,  where  the  line  joins  the 
'Pfalzlsche  Ludwig8bahn,  (p.  255).   —  37>/2  M.  Kaiserslauiern,  see  p.  255. 

Beyond  a  cutting  the  Ebernburg  (p.  149)  appears  on  the  left. 
The  train  next  runs  between  the  Nahe  and  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pitous Rothenfels  (p.  149),  and  after  going  through  two  tunnels, 
passes  the  villages  of  Norheim,  Niederhausen,  and  Oberhausen,  and 
an  abrupt  roek  rising  on  the  right,  crowned  with  the  ruins  of 
Bockelheim,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688,  in  which  the  Emp. 
Henry  IV.  was  kept  prisoner  by  his  son  Henry  V.  in  1105.  19  Va  M- 
Waldbockelheim  lies  in  a  side-valley,  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station; 
the  above-mentioned  ruins  are  1  M.  from  the  station. 


to  Afcte.  DISIBODENBERG.  23.  Route.     151 

The  castle  and  abbey  f  Sponfcabn ,  the  ancestral  seat  of  one  of  the 
oldest  Rhenish  families  (comp.  p.  147),  are  situated  »/»  hr.  to  the  N.  of 
Waldbdckelheim.  The  church,  consecrated  in  1123,  occupying  the  site 
of  an  older  structure ,  and  belonging  to  the  former  Benedictine  Abbey, 
is  a  fine  example  of  the  Romanesque  style,  and  has  been  recently  restored. 
Johann  Trithemius  (p.  180),  the  learned  chronicler,  was  abbot  here  from 
1484  to  1606. 

Emerging  from  a  tunnel  beyond  Waldbdckelheim,  we  observe 
on  the  left,  beyond  the  Nahe,  the  extensive  ruins  of  *Diiiboden- 
berg,  a  monastery  founded  by  the  Irish  bishop  Disibodus  (d.  about 
700),  the  first  propagator  of  Christianity  in  this  district  (20  min. 
to  the  E.  of  Staudernheim).  It  was  rebuilt  in  1150,  but  abandoned 
in  1559,  and  soon  fell  into  decay.  The  Abbey  Church,  consecrated 
in  1143,  was  an  imposing  edifice  with  pillars;  the  vaulting  of  the 
choir ,  which  was  composed  of  nave  and  aisles,  was  borne  by  im- 
bedded columns.  The  secular  portions  of  the  monastery  are  in  the 
Gothic  style  of  the  13th  cent.,  when  it  had  come  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  Cistercians.  Adjoining  the  church  were  the  cloisters, 
and  to  the  right  of  them  the  chapter-house.  Farther  to  the  W.  was 
the  residence  of  the  abbot,  with  a  view  over  the  valley  of  the  Nahe, 
and  to  the  E.  was  the  refectory,  of  which  the  gable- walls  are  still 
standing.  The  custodian  shows  a  number  of  Gothic  fragments 
(chiefly  key-stones)  from  the  old  building,  which  are  collected  in 
a  vault.  The  pleasure-grounds  around  the  ruins  afford  a  good  sur- 
vey of  the  valleys  of  the  Nahe  and  its  affluent  the  Glan. 

22*/2  M.  Staudernheim  (+Salmen)  lies  to  the  left,  connected 
with  the  station  by  the  flve-arched  'Landgrafen-Briicke',  con- 
structed in  1850. 


Diligence  from  Staudernheim  thrice  daily  in  l»/«  br.  (carr.  4y2  m.)  to 

iaenheim  (Engel)>  a  Prussian  district-town,  7  M.  to  the  S.,   pleasantly 

situated  on  tbe  Glan.     The   old    *Schlosskirche ,   a  gem  of  late -Gothic 


architecture,  built  in  1479  and  restored  in  1878-80,  contains  the  handsome 
Renaissance  monument  of  Prince  Charles  I  of  Pfals-Zweibrucken  (d.  1620), 
and  the  tombs  of  several  otber  members  of  the  same  house.  —  Farther 
up  the  valley  of  the  Glan,  beyond  Lauterecken .  lies  (10  M.)  Offenbach  am 
Glan  COerlaeh;  *Schaun),  with  an  *Abbey  Church,  built  about  1170-90, 
and  considered  one  of  the  finest  extant  examples  of  the  so-called  transi- 
tion style.  The  choir,  transept,  and  two  chapel-like  lateral  choirs  now 
alone  remain,  the  nave  and  aisles  having  been  pulled  down  in  1810. 

24  M.  Sobernheim  (Post;  Adler ;  beer  at  Burkart's)  is  a  small 
town  of  some  antiquity ,  enclosed  by  a  wall.  It  possesses  a  late- 
Gothic  church  and  an  old  chapel,  parts  of  which  perhaps  date 
from  the  10th  century,  and  several  picturesque  old  houses ,  the 
most  noticeable  of  which  is  one  in  the  Renaissance  style  with 
a  tasteful  oriel,  bearing  a  quaint  inscription  in  old-fashioned  Ger- 
man. In  the  N.  part  of  the  town ,  1/4  M.  from  the  station ,  are  an 
old  Chapel  and  Commandery  of  the  Knights  of  Malta ,  the  latter 
now  used  as  a  school. 

27  M.  Monzingen  (Pflug),  on  the  slope  to  the  right,  yields  one 
of  the  best  wines  of  the  Nahe.  On  the  right,  farther  on,  is  (30  M.) 
Martinstem  (Seipel),  curiously  built  on  a  rock ,  with  its  church  on 


152    Route  23.  KIRN.  From  Bingerbruck 

an  eminence  surrounded  by  a  fine  group  of  trees.  The  station  is 
*/2  M.  from  the  village.  Beyond  it,  in  a  valley  opening  on  the  right, 
are  situated  the  grand  ruins  of  Schloss  Dhaun. 

*Schloaa  Dhaun ,  the  seat  of  a  branch  of  the  Bheingrafen  which  be- 
came extinct  in  1760,  was  erected  in  the  12th  cent. ,  and  greatly  extend- 
ed in  1729.  This  strikingly  picturesque  castle  is  situated  6  M.  from 
Monzingen ,  21/*  M.  from  Mar  tin  stein,  and  372  M.  from  Kirn  (see  below  ; 
carriage  V/t  m.).  A  relief  over  one  of  the  doors,  representing  an  ape 
giving  an  apple  to  a  child .  commemorates  the  incident  that  a  child  of 
one  of  the  Counts  was  carried  off  by  an  ape,  but  fortunately  recovered. 
Magnificent  view  of  the  valley  of  theNahe  as  far  as  the  Lemberg,  of  the 
Simmerthal,  and  the  dark  ravines  of  the  Soonwald.  Admission,  including 
fee  to  attendant,  30  pf.    Near  the  entrance  is  the  H6UI  Dhaun. 

The  traveller  who  visits  Schloss  Dhaun  from  Martinstein  should  return 
from  Dorf  Dhaun  to  the  valley  of  the  Nahe  by  Johannisberg  (see  below). 

From  Martinstein  a  new  road  leads  through  the  picturesque  valley  of 
the  Simmevbach  or  Ktltenbach  to  (11  M.)  Oemunden  (Post).  From  Gem  lin- 
den a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  (1  hr.)  ruined  castle  of 
Koppenstein,  which  commands  a  splendid  "Panorama  of  the  upper  Nahegau, 
the  Soon  and  the  Ltitzelsoon,  and  the  heights  of  the  Hururilck  (to  the  K.). 
The  most  important  of  the  small  towns  and  villages  which  sprinkle  the 
Hunsriick  is  Simmern  (Lamm),  containing  an  interesting  church  (p.  xxxiii) 
and  the  well-known  reformatory  Aufm  Schnu'edel.  Simmern  may  be 
reached  from  Gemiinden  in  2'/2  hrs.  (diligence  from  Martinstein  daily  in 
4  hrs.-,  diligence  to  Boppard,  22  M.,  once  daily  in  ^/shrs.).  —From  Sim- 
mern excursions  may  be  made  to. the  N.W.  through  the  K&Uthal  to  (9  M.) 
Kastellaun,  and  to  the  8.W.  to  (7  M.)  Kirehberg.  We  now  return  to 
Gemiinden  Dy  Ravengiersbvrg,  which  possesses  an  interesting  abbey-church: 
To  the  E.  is  the  Altenburg  (2210  ft.;  *View),  rising  above  the  Soonwald,  a 
wooded  district  abounding  in  all  kinds  of  game ;  the  E.  part  of  the  forest, 
with  the  lofty  Opel  and  the  Weisten/els  ("View),  is  more  easily  accessible 
from  Stromberg  (p.  Ill)  or  Kreuznach. 

On  an  eminence  to  the  right  stands  the  church  of  Johannisberg, 
which  contains  ancient  tombstones  of  the  Rheingrafen.  The  train 
next  passes  through  a  tunnel  and  reaches  — 

33  M.  Kirn  (595  ft.;  *Stroh;  Kothen;  +Rheinlander ;  all  at  the 
station;  beer  at  DitCs  and  Nonnweiler's),  a  thriving  little  town, 
with  manufactures  of  cloth  and  leather,  and  a  brewery.  During  last 
century  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Princes  v.  Salm-Kyrburg ,  the 
last  of  whom  perished  by  the  guillotine  at  Paris  in  1794.  The  an- 
cient church  (nave  Romanesque,  choir  Gothic,  added  in  the  15th 
cent.)  contains  a  good  ciborium,  and  several  tombstones  of  Counts 
Palatine.  The  town  is  commanded  by  the  ruin  of  Kyrburg  (restau- 
rant), 1  M.  from  the  station,  which,  in  1861,  was  freed  from  the 
disfiguring  buildings  around  it,  and  embellished  with  pleasure- 
grounds. 

A  road  ascends  from  Kirn  through  the  valley  of  the  Hahnenbach, 
which  falls  into  the  Nahe  here,  by  B&chenbeuren  to  Berncastel  (p.  174)  and 
Trarbach  (p.  179)  on  the  Moselle.  About  IV2  M.  up  the  valley,  which  on 
the  night  of  5th  Aug.  1875,  was  visited,  along  with  Kirn,  by  a  terrible 
inundation  occasioned  by  a  water-spout,  are  the  ruins  of  Stein-Kallenfela, 
curiously  perched  on  the  rock  like  a  swallow^s  nest.  At  the  entrance  to  the 
valley  are  several  agate-polishing  mills.  In  the  background  the  white  castle 
of  Wartenstein,  on  a  wooded  height.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Sehmidburg 
(1  hr.).  From  Wartenstein  by  Oberhaysen  to  Dhaun,  and  from  Dhaun  by 
Johannisberg,  or  through  the  woods  to  Kirn,  a  pleasant  walk  of  3V»  hrs. 

The.  valley  now  expands,  but  the  line  again  enters  a  mountain- 


to  Met*.  0BERSTE1N.  23.  Route.     153 

oub  district  at  Sulzbach,  where  the  cliffs  become  more  abrupt.  The 
most  interesting  part  of  the  line  in  point  of  construction  is  between 
Kirn  and  Birkenfeld,  where  there  are  no  fewer  than  twenty  bridges 
over  the  Nahe  and  ten  tunnels,  while  the  whole  of  the  remaining 
part  of  the  line  has  five  bridges  and  five  tunnels  only.  Beyond 
(38  M.)  Fischbach  the  train  comes  in  view  of  Oberstein,  situated 
most  picturesquely  on  the  opposite  bank.  To  the  right  a  *View 
is  obtained  of  the  'Fallen  Rocks'. 

42  M.  Oberstein  (Restaurant  at  the  station,  with  pavilion 
and  *View ;  *Post ,  in  the  town ,  near  the  new  bridge ;  agates  sold 
at  several  shops),  a  town  with  4800  inhab.,  is  the  finest  point  on 
the  Nahe.  The  precipitous  cliffs ,  400  ft.  in  height,  which  confine 
the  town  within  narrow  limits,  are  crowned  with  two  ruined  castles 
of  the  Barons  of  Oberstein,  who  became  extinct  in  1670.  The  best 
way  to  the  castles  is  the  'Burgweg',  ascending  to  the  left  of  the 
*Post',  opposite  Wild's  brewery.  By  this  route  we  first  reach  the  Neue 
Burg  (Restaurant),  which  has  only  of  late  fallen  to  decay,  and  then, 
beyond  a  hollow  containing  a  War  Monument,  the  *Altc  Burg,  sit- 
uated almost  perpendicularly  above  the  town.  About  5  min.  higher 
is  a  pavilion  commanding  a  very  extensive  *View.  We  may  now 
return  by  the  ^Protestant  Churchy  curiously  built  into  the  face  of  the 
rock  about  halfway  down  (200  ft.  above  the  Nahe),  and  said  to  have 
been  erected  in  the  12th  cent,  by  a  member  of  the  Oberstein  family 
with  his  own  hands,  as  an  atonement  for  fratricide ;  it  was  restored 
in  1482.  The  sexton  lives  close  by.  The  Gothic  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  built  of  grey  'melaphyre',  lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nahe. 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  of  Oberstein  are  occupied  in  cutting  and 
polishing  agates.  These  stones  were  formerly  found  here  in  abundance, 
but  are  now  imported  from  Brazil  and  Montevideo.  A  process  has  been 
discovered  by  which  colourless  agates  are  converted  into  onyxes,  sardo- 
nyxea?  Ac,  by  the  addition  of  colouring  matter.  On  the  Idarbach*  which 
falls  into  the  Nahe  near  Oberstein,  there  are  upwards  of  fifty  polishing 
mills.  Mar  (*B6tel  Veeck,  or  BchUtienhof),  ly2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Ober- 
stein (diligence  thrice  daily  in  20  min.) ,  a  place  with  9000  inhab.,  also 
possesses  a  Gewerbehalle ,  or  industrial  hall,  in  which  these  wares  are 
sold  at  officially  regulated  prices.  At  Idar  and  Oberstein  upwards  of  100 
goldsmiths'  are  engaged  in  setting  the  stones  in  silver  and  other  metals. 
—  Beautiful  excursion  to  the  Wildenburg  (2y«j  hrs.)  by  the  Katztnloch\ 
guide  necessary. 

47  M.  Kronweiler;  501/a  M.  Heimbach.  533/4  M.  Birkenfeld 
(Emmerich),  the  capital  of  the  principality  of  Birkenfeld,  now  be- 
longing to  the  Duchy  of  Oldenburg,  lies  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  rail- 
way, with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  branch-line.  From  (5772  M.) 
Turkismuhle  a  pleasant  excursion  of  2^4  hrs.  may  be  made  via  8oe- 
tern  to  the  Hunnenring.  A  diligence  runs  in  7^ hrs.  from  Turkis- 
muhle to  (82  M.)  Treves  via  Hermeskeil.  The  line  now  attains  the 
•ulminating  point  (1030  ft.)  between  the  Nahe  and  Blies,  and  then 
descends  rapidly  to  the  district-town  of  — 

66  M.  StWendel  (970  ft.;  Jochurri),  with  a  fine  old  Gothic 
church  and  pulpit  of  14o2. 


154     Route  23.  SAARBRUCKEN.       From  Bingcrbriick 

About  7Vs  M.  to  the  W.  of  St.  Wendel  is  situated  the  small  town 
of  Tholey  (Knoll),  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine  Abbey,  the  simple 
early -Gothic  church  of  which  is  still  preserved.  Above  it  rises  the 
Sehaumberg  (1837  ft.) ,  a  volcanic  eminence  (porphyry) ,  which  affords  a 
fine  view.    Numerous  Roman  antiquities  are  found  in  the  neighbourhood. 

71  M.  Ottweiler  (H6tel  Haass).  The  handsome  building  on  the 
hill  to  the  right  is  a  Protestant  Training  School.  The  train  now 
passes  through  the  WiebeUkirchen  Tunnel,  which  is  400  yds.  in 
length. 

75 V2  M.  Heunkirchen  {Hester,  near  the  bridge ;  Simon,  at  the 
station"),  a  town  with  15,000  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Mann- 
heim line  (R.  37).    Large  foundry  belonging  to  Messrs.  Stumm. 

Beyond  Neunkirchen  is  the  Bildstock  Tunnel  (517  yds.).  The 
numerous  cuttings  here  expose  to  view  strata  of  coal,  often  curiously 
dislodged.  The  coal-mines  all  belong  to  the  Prussian  government. 
See  below. 

80  M.  Friedrtchsthal;  83  M.  Suhbach;  851/4  M.  Dudweiler, 
the  long  row  of  glowing  coke-furnaces  at  which  forms  an  imposing 
spectacle  at  night. 

Between  the  stations  of  Suhbach  and  Dudweiler,  in  a  wood  V*  M.  to 
the  left  of  the  line,  is  situated  the  'Brennende  Berg' ,  or  burning  mountain, 
a  coal-bed  which  ignited  spontaneously  at  the  beginning  of  last  century. 
Slow  combustion  still  takes  place ,  and  the  bed ,  400  by  40  yds. ,  is  gra- 
dually sinking.  Smoke  is  seen,  especially  after  rain,  issuing  from  the 
fissures,  in  which  eggs  are  sometimes  cooked  by  visitors. 

88  M.  St.  Johaan-Saarbrucken  {^Queprattt;  *Rhein.  Hof; 
*Kohl ;  Korn,  Zix,  near  the  station),  two  sister-towns  on  the  right 
and  left  bank  of  the  Saar,  united  with  each  other  by  two  long 
bridges.  St.  Johann  (12,000  inhabitants),  containing  the  railway- 
station,  is  entirely  modern,  dating  its  importance  from  the  con- 
struction of  the  railway,  which  does  not  touch  Saarbrucken.  Down 
to  1793  Saarbrucken  (9000  inhab.)  was  the  residence  of  the  prin- 
ces of  Nassau- Saarbrucken ,  whose  Schloss,  burned  down  by  the 
French  revolutionary  army  in  that  year,  is  now  private  property ;  the 
palace-church  contains  monuments  of  the  princes.  The  hall  of  the 
Rathhaus  at  Saarbrucken  has,  by  order  of  the  Emperor,  been  de- 
corated with  frescoes  by  Werner,  commemorating  the  events  of 
19th  July  to  9th  Aug.  1870  (see  below).  —  Saarbrucken  is  the 
centre  of  a  very  important  coal-mining  district,  employing  about 
25,000  miners  and  producing  in  1880  six  million  tons  of  coals. 
Railway  to  Treves,  see  R.  24 ;  to  Saargemfind,  Hagenau,  and  Strass- 
burg,  see  R.  41  •  to  St.  Ingbert  and  Zweibriicken,  see  p.  266 ;  to 
Neunkirchen  and  Ludwigshafen,  see  R.  37. 

On  the  heights  of  Spicheren ,  about  3  M.  to  the  8.  of  Saarbrucken ,  on 
6th  Aug.  1870,  a  sharp  engagement  took  place  between  the  Prussians  and 
French,  in  which  the  latter,  although  numerically  superior,  were  obliged 
to  retreat.  A  visit  to  the  battle-field  occupies  3-4  hrs.  (carr.  12  m.). 
The  Metz  road  is  followed,  passing  the  (IV2M.)  Ehrenthal,  the  burial-place 
of  the  German  soldiers  who  fell  at  Spicheren,  and  the  (1  M.)  toll -house 
and  'Qoldene  Bremm'  inn,  near  which  is  the  Spicherer  Berg  Hotel,  with 
a  collection  of  relics  of  the  battle.  On  the  left  rises  the  Spicherer  Berg 
875  ft.),  with  its  steep  and  scantily   wooded  slopes,  a  strong  position 


to  Metz.  METZ.  23.  RouU.     1 55 

in  which  the  French  had  intrenched  themselves.  The  Germans  began 
the  attack  from  the  right  and  left  side  of  the  road,  and  from  the  Winter- 
bergy  a  hill  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Saarbrticken.  A  tower  recently  erected 
on  the  latter  height  to  commemorate  the  victory  commands  a  good  survey 
of  the  battle-field. 

At  St.  Arnual,  iy»  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Saarbrticken,  on  the  £.  side  of 
the  Winterberg,  is  a  *Church  in  the  best  Gothic  style,  with  remarkably 
fine  font,  pulpit,  and  interesting  monuments  of  the  princes  of  Nassau- 
Saarbrucken.    Opposite  is  the  Hallberg,  with  a  modern  chateau. 

The  Railway  to  Mbtz  crosses  the  Saar,  traverses  the  battle- 
field of  6th  Aug.  1870,  and  passes  (5  M.)  Stiring-  Wendel,  and  the 
little  town  of  (6  M.)  Forbaeh,  with  6000  inhabitants.  To  the  left 
in  the  distance  rises  the  hill  of  Spieheren  (see  above).  The  country 
beyond  Forbaeh  is  undulating.  QM.Kochern.  At  (IH/4M.) Beninp en 
the  line  from  Metz  to  Saargemund  and  Strassburg  diverges  to  the  left 
(comp.  p.  274;  new  branch-line  to  Thionville,  p.  160,  open  as  far 
as  Carlingen).  Next  (133/a  M.)  Oberhomburg  on  the  Rossel,  (18  M.) 
St.  Avoid,  (25  M.)  FaUeenberg,  (31 1/4  M.)  Herny,  (351/2  M.)  Re- 
miUy,  (41 72  M.)  Courcelles-wr-Nied,  all  frequently  mentioned  in 
the  annals  of  the  Franco-Prussian  war.  (Branch-line  from  Gourcelles 
to  Bolehen,  a  town  of  2500  inhab.,  and  Bous,  32  M.,  see  p.  160.) 
Then  (45  M.)  Peltre,  which  was  entirely  destroyed  in  consequence 
of  a  sally  on  23rd  Sept.  1870.  On  the  right,  before  the  station  of 
Metz  is  entered,  rises  Fort  Queuleu,  now  called  Fort  Goben. 

48V2  M.  Metz.  —  Hotels.  *Gband  Hotel  db  Metz  (PI.  a;  C,5),  Rue 
des  Clercs  3,  R.  3-5,  L.  i,  D.  at  6  p.m.  4,  B.  lVa,  A.  1  fr.;  *H6tkl  db 
i/Eubope  (PI.  b  •,  C,  5),  Rue  des  Clercs  4,  R.  from  2,  B.  ly2,  D.  3  fr.  — 
Hotel  de  Paris  (PI.  c;  G,  4),  adjoining  the  Esplanade,  well  spoken  of; 
Hotel  de  Londbbs,  Rue  au  Bid  4,  near  the  cathedral,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from 
1  fr.  60c.,  D.  2fr.  60c.  ;  H6tel  Luxembourg,  Rue  Serpenoise 55 ;  Hotel 
Garni  (PI.  d;  G,  5),  Rue  Pierre  Hardie  4,  with  restaurant-,  "Hotel  db 
la  Posts  (PI.  g;  C,  5),  Rue  des  Clercs  38,  unpretending,  R.  2,  B.  1  fr., 
with  restaurant;  Rheinischbb  Hof,  Rue  de  TEsplanade,  with  restaurant. 

Restaurants.  *Moitrier,  Rue  Ghapelrue  4.  adjoining  the  Rue  Serpe- 
noise ;  Ehrhardt,  luncheon-rooms,  Rue  Fourmrue  9  (PI.  D,  5) ;  *Dannhofer, 
Rue  du  Faisan ;  at  some  of  the  hotels,  see  above.  —  Oafes  in  the  Esplanade. 
—  Beer.  Hnber,  Rue  des  Allemands  1,  bis ;  Zeiting,  Rue  Serpenoise  23. 

Tramways  to  all  the  city-gates,  and  to  Montigny,  Longevities  and  MouUns. 

Mete,  the  capital  of  German  Lorraine,  with  53, 107  inhab.)  more 
than  a  fourth  of  whom  are  German  settlers  (pop.  before  the  Franco- 
German  war  55,000),  and  a  German  garrison  of  16,000  men,  lies 
in  a  wide  basin  on  the  Moselle,  which  flows  in  several  arms  through 
the  town,  at  the  lower  end  of  which  it  is  joined  by  the  Seille  on  the 
right.  It  was  the  Divodurwn  of  the  Romans,  the  chief  town  of  the 
Gallic  tribes  of  the  Mediomatici,  and  in  the  5th  cent,  began  to  be 
known  as  Mettit.  In  406  it  was  plundered  by  the  Vandals,  and  in 
451  it  suffered  the  same  fate  from  the  Huns.  It  afterwards  came  into 
the  possession  of  the  Franks,  and  in  512  became  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Austrasia.  Subsequently  Metz  was  a  free  city  of  the 
German  Empire ,  until  it  was  taken  by  the  French  in  1552,  and 
successfully  maintained  by  them  against  an  army  which  besieged  it 
under  Charles  V.  By  the  Peace  of  1556  it  was  ceded  to  the  French 


156     Route  23,  METZ.  Catitedral. 

together  with  Toul  and  Verdun,  and  in  1871  it  was  again  incor- 
porated with  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

Metz  has  always  been  strongly  fortified  (at  one  time  by  Vauban),  and 
under  the  later  French  regime  was  rendered  one  of  the  greatest  fortresses 
in  Europe  by  the  construction  of  forts  on  the  neighbouring  heights.  Until 
its  surrender  to  the  Germans  on  27th  Oct.  1870,  the  fortress  had  never 
succumbed  to  an  enemy,  and  even  on  that  occasion  it  is  probable  that 
mismanagement  on  the  part  of  the  French  contributed  mainly  to  its 
downfall.  The  Germans  are  now  actively  engaged  in  restoring  and 
completing  the  fortifications.  The  outworks  form  a  girdle  round  the 
town  of  about  15  M.  in  circumference ;  the  most  distant  (Plappeville)  is 
about  4  M.  from  the  cathedral,  the  nearest  (St.  Quentin)  about  1  M., 
the  rest  2-3  M.  To  the  W.,  commanding  a  wide  surrounding  tract  of 
country  are :  Fori  St.  Quentin,  consisting  of  two  parts,  that  to  the  E.  being 
now  called  Friedrich  Karl  and  that  to  the  W.  Hanstein ;  and  Fort  Plappe- 
ville,  now  named  G.  v.  Alvensleben ;  on  the  N.E.  are  Fort  St.  Julien,  now 
Manteuffel,  and  Fort  Les  Bottes,  now  Zaatrow ;  to  the  S.E.  Fort  Queuleu, 
now  GSben;  to  the  S.  Fort  St.  Privat,  now  Prina  August  v.  Wiirtem- 
burg,  Bellecroix,  now  Steinmetz,  and  Moselle,  now  Voigts-Rhetz. 

The  *Cathbdbal  (PI.  7;  0,  4),  the  finest  edifice  in  the  town, 
is  a  magnificent  Gothic  structure,  begun  in  the  13th  century.  The 
nave  was  completed  before  1392,  the  choir  dates  from  the  15th  and 
16th  cent,  and  was  consecrated  in  1546,  and  the  unsightly  portal 
was  added  in  the  degraded  taste  of  the  18th  century.  The  whole  was ' 
thoroughly  restored  in  1830-35.  The  roof  caught  fire  in  1877,  dur- 
ing the  visit  of  the  Emperor  William ,  but  has  since  been  restor- 
ed. The  ^Interior  is  very  interesting,  although  most  of  the  old 
monuments  were  destroyed  at  the  time  of  the  French  Revolution. 
By  the  altar  adjoining  the  sacristy  is  a  kneeling  figure  of  the  archi- 
tect Pierre  Perrat  (d.  1400).  Several  late-Gothic  paintings  on  the 
pillars  have  recently  been  discovered  under  the  whitewash,  and  re- 
stored. The  choir  contains  fine  stained-glass  windows,  the  oldest  of 
which,  of  the  13th  cent.,  are  on  the  S;  side;  those  in  the  middle  are 
of  the  14th  and  15th  cent.,  and  several  others  are  modern.  The 
tower,  387  ft.  in  height  (110  steps  to  the  first  gallery,  105  more 
to  the  huge  clock  called  La  Muette,  and  78  thence  to  the  highest 
gallery) ,  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  town  and  the  fertile 
lPay8  Me88iri. 

The  Marchi  Convert  (PI.  23;  C,  4),  to  the  W.  of  the  cathedral, 
should  be  visited  by  the  traveller  in  the  morning  for  the  sake  of 
seeing  the  magnificent  display  of  vegetables  and  fruit  yielded  by  the 
remarkably  fertile  environs. 

The  Place  d'Armes  (PI.  C,4),  adjoining  the  cathedral  on 
the  W.,  is  adorned  with  a  Statue  of  Marshal  Fabert  (d.  1662), 
a  native  of  Metz ,  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  campaigns  of 
Louis  XIV. 

The  Church  of  St.  Vincent  (PI.  14 ;  C,  3),  a  fine  Gothic  structure 
begun  in  the  13th  cent.,  with  traces  of  the  Romanesque  style,  is 
disfigured  externally  with  an  unsuitable  modern  facade. 

In  the  Rue  Marcel  (PI.  B,  4),  in  the  vicinity,  is  the  handsome 
modern  Romanesque  Church  of  Ste.  Constance,   with  good  mural 


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Battle  Fields.  METZ.  23.  Route.     1 57 

paintings  of  1861  by  Hussenot ,  a  native  of  Mete.  The  church  be- 
longs to  the  extensive  OrpMUnat,  or  orphan  asylum,  where  visitors 
apply  for  admission  to  the  church. 

The  Library  (PI.  2;  D,  4),  in  the  Rue  Chevremont,  contains 
many  valuable  works  on  the  history  of  Lorraine  and  the  town  itself. 
The  Museum,  in  the  same  building,  embraces  considerable  collec- 
tions and  a  picture-gallery  (Sun.  &  Thurs.  1-4,  gratis;  on  other 
days  10-4,  fee). 

Ground  Floor.  Qaltrie  ArcMologique  (catalogue  2  m.).  Room  I. 
Greek  and  Soman  vases.  Boom  IL  Stone  monuments  from  the  environs 
of  Metz  -.  9, 10,  36-40.  Roman  tombstones ;  27.  Altar  of  the  goddess  Epona ; 
79.  Altar  of  Mercury  and  Rosmerta ;  89.  Monument  from  Arlon,  with  reliefs 
of  children;  99.  Relief  of  a  shop*,  170.  Fine  statue  of  a  woman,  found  at 
Metz  -,  portions  of  a  monument  found  at  Mertens ;  richly-decorated  column, 
which  supported  an  equestrian  statue.  —  Mediaeval  Collection.  416.  Gothic 
chimney-piece  from  the  convent  of  St.  Elisabeth,  16th  cent. ;  440.  Basrelief 
of  the  Twelve  Apostles  and  the  martyrdom  of  St.  Agatha.  —  The  First 
Floor  contains  a  collection  of  smaller  Roman  antiquities,  a  Cabinet  of 
Coins  (one  room),  a  Natural  History  Cabinet,  and  the  Picture  Gallery  (three 
rooms). 

The  handsome  Church  of  St.  Eucharius  (PI.  8 ;  £,5),  with  a  plain 
interior,  near  the  Porte  des  Allemands,  dates  from  the  12th  century. 

The  Esplanabb,  which  extends  towards  the  S.W.  of  the  town, 
is  laid  out  in  pleasant  walks.  The  spacious  Kaiser-  Wtihelm-Caserne 
(PL  B,  6),  formerly  the  Caserne  duGtfnie,  is  situated  here.  In 
front  of  the  Esplanade  stands  a  Statue  of  Marshal  Ney ,  who  was 
born  at  Saarlouis  in  1769,  created  Duo  d'Elchingen  by  Napoleon  in 
1805»  and  Prince  de  la  Moscow*  in  1812,  and  shot  in  1815  in  con- 
sequence of  his  defection  from  the  royal  cause  to  that  of  Napoleon 
after  the  return  of  the  emperor  from  Elba. 

The  Palais  -de  Justice  (PL  25;  B,  5),  an  extensive  building  of 
the  last  century,  is  also  situated  in  the  Esplanade. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Porte  Chambiere,  or  Schlachthausthor  (PI.  E,  3), 
is  a  lofty  Monument  to  the  memory  of  the  French  soldiers  who  died 
atMetzinl870. 

Metz  is  the  junction  of  the  Saarbrucken  Railway  with  the  lines  to 
Pagny  and  Nancy  (p.  159),  to  Thionville  (Diedenhofen)  and  Luxcm~ 
bourg  (p.  160),  and  to  Amanvillers  and  Verdun ,  opened  in  1874. 
(To  Amanvillers,  9  M.,  in  45-50  min.,  passing  Moulins,  situated  at 
the  entrance  of  the  valley  of  Monvaux,  which  the  train  ascends.) 

The  Battle  Fields  of  16th  and  18th  August,  1870,  lie  to  the  W.  of 
Mete,  on  the  road  to  Verdun.  A  visit  to  them  occupies  a  whole  day 
(9-10  hrs.),  and  may  be  most  conveniently  accomplished  by  taking  the 
following  route  (either  entirely  by  carriage:  two-horse  carriage  30-40  fr., 
the  best  at  the  principal  hotels \  or  by  train  to  Novdant  and  by  omnibus 
to  Gorze ,  and  the  rest  on  foot) :  Up  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  to  Noviant 
(p.  100);  thence  to  Gorze  3»A  M.  -,  VionvilU  3ty4M.-,  Rexonville  2M.i  Gra- 
velQtte  2  M. ;  St.  Hubert  iy4  M.  \  back  to  Gravelotte  iy4  M. ;  from  Gravelotta 
to  Verntville  2  M.  •,  Ste.  Marie-aux-  CMnes  2*A  M.  \  St.  Privat-la-Montaone 
and  Amanvillers,  which  is  a  railway  -  station  (see  above),  2»/«  M.;  in  all 
about  17V»M.  from  Gorze.  Information  on  all  points  connected  with  the 
battles  is  giyen  by  the  keepers  of  the  monuments  and  burial-grounds. 


1 58     Route  23.  GRAVELOTTE. 

Those  who  desire  to  visit  the  Battle  Field  of  the  18th  August  only 
should  proceed  by  railway  or  tramway  to  Moulin*  (Croix  d'Or),  and 
thence  follow  the  road  to  Gravel otte,  which  ascends  to  the  W.  Before 
we  cross  the  brook,  which  flows  through  the  valley,  at  Maison  Neuve, 
we  pass  a  road  diverging  to  the  right,  which,  like  the  railway,  runs 
through  the  valley  of  Monvaux  by  Chatel  to  Amanvillers  and  St.  Privat 
By  the  village  of  Rozerieulles,  farther  up  the  hill  on  the  main  road  to 
Gravelotte,  began  the  left  wing  of  the  French  army  (composed  of  the 
2nd  Corps  under  Frossard  and  the  3rd  Corps  under  Leboeuf),  whose  chief 
'point  d'appuf  was  the  farm  of  Point  du  Jour  situated  on  the  hill.  The 
Germans  who  opposed  them  consisted  of  the  7th  and  8th  Prussian  Corps 
(commanded  by  Zastrow  and  Goben  under  Steinmetz),  who  towards 
evening  were  supported  by  the  2nd  Corps  (under  Fransecky).  The 
French  maintained  their  position  until  nightfall,  but  retreated  on  the 
morning  of  the  19th.  The  inn  of  St.  Hubert,  somewhat  lower  down  the 
hill,  had  however  previously  been  captured  by  the  Germans  in  the  course 
of  the  afternoon.  The  sanguinary  nature  of  the  struggle  is  shown 
by  the  numerous  tombstones  of  the  different  regiments.  The  road  de- 
scends into  a  ravine,  and  then  ascends  to  the  plateau  of  Gravelotte  (*  B6UI 
du  Cheval  d"Or,  expensive),  5  M.  from  Moulins-les-Metz.  In  the  middle  of 
the  village  the  road  divides,  both  branches  leading  to  Verdun.  On  that  to 
the  right  (N.),  about  1  M.  farther,  lies  the  farm  of  Malmaison,  near  which 
a  good  survey  is  obtained  of  the  farms  of  Point  du  Jour,  Moseou,  Leipzig, 
Montignp-la-Grctnge,  etc.,  on  the  opposite  heights,  then  occupied  by  the 
French.  Malmaison  was  occupied  by  the  9th  Prussian  Corps  d'Armee  (under 
Manstein),  the  lines  of  which  extended  along  the  road  diverging  to  the 
right  as  far  as  (iy4  M.)  Vemivxtte.  To  the  W.  of  the  village  (reached  by  the 
road  diverging  to  the  left)  is  a  handsome  Monument  to  some  of  the  fallen 
Germans.  Good  view  from  the  height.  To  the  N..  of  Verneville  French 
territory  is  crossed  for  a  short  distance.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  other 
German  monuments.  The  villages  of  (IV4  M.)  Habonville  and  (8A  M.)  St.  Ail, 
from  which  the  right  wing  of  the  guards  (under  Prince  Augustus  of  Wiir- 
temberg)  and  behind  it  the  reserve  of  the  10th  Corps  (under  Voigte-Rhetz) 
advanced,  are  French;  Ste.  Marie-aux-ChSnes,  */*  M-  farther,  the  centre  of  the 
left  wing  of  the  guards,  now  belongs  to  Germany.  Here  there  is  a  French 
monument.  Farther  N.  are  Montois-la-Montagne  and  Malancourt,  where 
the  left  wing  of  the  German  line  of  battle  was  terminated  by  the  Saxon 
corps  (under  the  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony).  The  right  wing  of  the  French 
opposite  (consisting  of  the  4th  Corps  under  Ladmirault,  and  the  6th  Corpa 
under  Canrobert)  was  posted  by  the  villages  of  Roneourt  and  Bt.  Frivat- 
la-Montagne,  on  the  road,  opposite  Ste.  Marie,  both  of  which  were  taken 
in  the  evening  by  an  attack  of  the  guards  and  the  Saxons,  whereupon 
the  right  French  wing  retreated  towards  Mete  in  great  confusion.  Several 
Monuments  have  been  erected  to  the  Germans  on  the  road  from  Ste.  Marie 
to  St.  Privat.  From  the  latter  the  traveller  may  now  return  to  (1  M.) 
Amanvillers,  which  contains  two  German  monuments,  and  by  the  above- 
mentioned  railway  to  (5  M.)  Moulins-les-Metz,  or  by  footpaths  passing  the 
farms  of  Montigny-la-Grange,  La-Jolie,  Leipzig,  Moscou,  and  Point  du  Jour. 
—  The  eight  German  Corps  d'Armee  engaged  in  the  battle  of  the  18th 
August  numbered  about  230,000  men,  opposed  to  whom  were  180,000 
French  troops.  The  Germans  lost  899  officers  and  19,260  men ;  the  French 
609  officers  and  11,705  men. 

The  Battle  Field  of  the  16th  August  adjoins  that  above  described. 
The  position  of  the  French  was  principally  supported  on  the  left  by  the 
village  of  Resonville,  situated  on  the  left  (8.)  branch  of  the  road  from  Grave- 
lotte, and  ly*M.  distant  from  it,  the  Emp.  William  spent  the  night  of  18-I9th 
Aug.  In  the  last  house  to  the  W.  (A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  village,  at  the 
end  of  the  ravine  ascending  from  Gorze,  mentioned  above,  is  a  monument 
to  the  commander  of  the  72nd  Regiment,  who  fell  at  this  spot ;  good  view 
hence.)  The  French  line  of  battle  extended  in  a  semicircle  towards  the 
N.W.  as  far  as  St.  Marcel  and  Bruville%  while  the  Germans  advanced 
from  the  woods  towards  the  S.,  in  the  direction  of  the  road.  Near 
Rezonville,  where  the  monuments  have  been  erected,  the  French  batteries 


VIONVILLE.  23.  Route.     159 

planted  on  the  N.  side  of  the  road  were  gallantly  attacked  by  the  German 
cuirassiers  and  uhlans.  About  2  M.  farther  lies  Vionville,  which  was 
occupied  soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  battle  by  detachments  of  the 
3rd  Corps  d'Armee  (Brandenburg era)  and  successfully  maintained  by  them 
in  spite  of  vehement  attacks  by  numerically  superior  Freneh  troops,  so 
that  the  S.  branch  of  the  road  to  Verdun  was  rendered  unavailable  for 
the  French  retreat.  Here  also  rise  numerous  monuments  to  the  fallen, 
between  Vionville  and  Mar s-la~ Tour  a  spirited  attack  was  made  by  the 
Dragoon  Guards  and  the  Rheinbaben  Cavalry  Division  in  aid  of  the  harassed 
infantry  of  the  10th  Corps.  Mars-la-Tour  itself,  with  its  monument,  lies 
within  the  French  frontier.  —  The  battle  of  16th  Aug.  was  one  of  the 
bloodiest  fought  during  the  whole  war.  In  the  course  of  the  day  no 
fewer  than  138,000  French  troops  and  476  Kuns  were  engaged  at  intervals, 
while  the  German  forces  amounted  to  67,000  men  with  222  guns.  The 
French  loss  was  estimated  at  879  officers  and  16,128  privates,  and  the 
German  loss  at  711  officers  and  16,079  rank  and  file. 

To  the  E.  of  Hetz  lie  the  Battle  Fields  of  14th  Aug.  and  of  31st  Aug. 
and  1st  Sept.  1870.  The  former  began  between  three  and  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  and  ended  at  9  p.m.  by  the  French  being  driven  back 
under  the  guns  of  Metz.  The  Germans  have  numed  it  the  battle  of 
Colombey-Nouilly ,  as  the  ground  between  these  villages  was  the  principal 
object  of  attack  (see  Map).  The  result  of  the  battle  was  to  cause  a  fatal 
delay  in  the  intended  march  of  the  French  to  Verdun. 

The  battle  of  31st  Aug.  and  1st  Sept.  was  fought  on  the  occasion 
of  the  first  and  most  determined  attempt  of  Marshal  Bazaine  to  break 
through  the  German  army  which  had  surrounded  Met*/-  since  19th 
August.  The  chief  object  of  dispute  was  the  small  village  of  Noisseville, 
b  M.  from  Metz,  on  the  road  to  Saarlouis.  The  4th  and  6th  Corps  and 
the  guards  of  the  French  took  the  place  about  6  p.m.,  soon  after  the 
beginning  of  the  battle ;  they  lost  it  about  9  p.  m.  and  re-captured  it  at 
10  p.  m.  On  the  following  day  the  Germans  took  the  village  three  times 
and  lost  it  as  often,  but  at  length  about  noon  they  succeeded  in  gaining 
final  possession  of  it.  The  principal  German  monuments  rise  to  the  8. 
of  the  village,  and  there  are  several  others  near  Servigny  to  the  N.  of  it, 
and  near  Colombey  to  the  S.  The  German  loss  amounted  to  126  officers 
and  2850  men,  and  the  French  loss  to  141  officers  and  2664  men. 

To  the  N.  of  Metz,  not  far  from  the  road  to  Thionville,  lies  Woippy, 
where  Bazaine's  last  sortie,  on  7th  Oct.,  terminated  in  the  retreat  of  the 
French  after  a  battle  of  nine  hours'  duration.  —  At  the  chateau  of  Fres- 
eol»\  2»/4  M.  to  the  8.  of  MeU,  on  27th  Oct,  was  signed  the  capitulation 
of  Metz,  whereby  the  fortress  with  3  marshals,  50  generals,  6000  other 
officers,  173,000  men  (including  20,000  sick  and  wounded),  53  eagles,  66 
mitrailleuses,  541  field-pieces,  and  800  fortress-guns,  together  with  a  vast 
quantity  of  other  munitions  of  war,  were  surrendered  to  the  Germans. 


From  Mbtz  to  Nancy,  36  M.,  railway  In  2i/|-28/4  hrs.  (fares 
5  m.  40,  4  m.,  2  m.  90  pf.).  — The  line  ascends  the  picturesque  and 
well-peopled  valley  of  the  Moselle,  which  flows  between  hills  of  mod- 
erate height.  Soon  after  leaving  Metz,  at  the  point  where  the  line 
to  Thionville  branches  off  to  the  right,  we  pass  on  the  left  Fort 
St.  PriveUj  now  Prinz  August  v.  Wurtemberg,  and  then  the  chateau 
of  Frescati,  embosomed  in  trees.  A  little  farther  on,  the  train  crosses 
the  river  and  reaches  (5  M.)  Ars-sur- Moselle.  A  little  above  the 
village,  and  also  at  Jouy-aux- Arches  on  the  right  bank,  about  S1^  M. 
from  Metz,  are  situated  extensive  remains  of  a  * Roman  Aqueduct 
erected  by  Drusus,  which  was  once  about  60  ft.  in  height  and  3/4  M. 
in  length,  and  conducted  water  from  the  hills  on  the  right  bank  to 
the  Roman  town  of  Divodurum,  the  modern  Metz.   At  Ars  there  are 


160    Routed.  SAARLOUIS. 

seven,  and  at  Jouy  eleven  arches  still  standing.  8l/2  M.  Noviant, 
connected  by  a  suspension-bridge  with  Corny,  the  head-quarters  of 
Prince  Frederick  Charles  during  the  siege,  is  the  German  frontier- 
station.  12  M.  Pagny  is  the  French  frontier  station.  17i/2M.  Pont- 
a-Mousson,  a  picturesquely  situated  little  town,  with  11,000  in- 
hab.,  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Mousson  on  a  lofty 
eminence.  Then  Dieulouard,  Marbach,  and  (30  M. )Frouard,  where 
the  Rhine  and  Marne  Canal  is  crossed,  and  the  line  to  Paris  di- 
verges to  the  E. 

35  M.  Fancy  (Hdtels  de  Paris,  de  V Europe,  de  France,  du 
Commerce,  d?  Anglcterre,  de  Metz,  the  last  two  near  the  station),  the 
capital  of  the  De*partement  de  la  Meurthe,  formerly  that  of  the 
Duchy  of  Lorraine,  with  70,000  inhabitants,  is  pleasantly  situated 
in  a  fertile  and  vine-clad  plain,  not  far  from  the  left  bank  of  the 
navigable  Meurthe.  The  town  contains  broad,  well-built  streets, 
handsome  places  adorned  with  fountains,  and  a  number  of  imposing 
buildings.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  Gates,  built  in 
the  style  of  triumphal  arches;  the  Place  Dombasle,  the  Cours 
Liopold,  and  the  Place  Stanislas,  which  are  all  embellished  with 
statues ;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  with  a  collection  of  modern  paintings ; 
the  Chapelle  Bonde,  the  burial-church  of  the  dukes ;  and  the  new 
church  of  St.  Epvre.    See  Baedeker's  Paris. 


From  Metz  to  Luxbmboubo,  41  M.,  railway  in  Wj^rl  hrs.  (fares 
5  m.  40,  3  m.  60,  2  m.  30  pf. ;  express  6  m.  15,  4  m.  35  pf.).  The 
line  describes  a  curve  on  the  "W.  side  of  the  town,  passing  Montigny, 
(5  M.)  Devant-les-Ponts  (outside  the  Porte  de  France  of  Metz), 
(11 V*  M.)  Maizilres,  (133/4  M.)  Hag  ending  en,  (1772M.)  Huckingen, 
and  (201/2  M.)  ThionviUe  (Hdtel  St.  Hubert),  or  Diedenhofcn,  a 
small  fortified  town  on  the  Moselle,  which  was  taken  by  the  Germans 
on  24th  Nov.  1870.  Then  Qross-Hettingen,  Beitemburg,  Berchem} 
and  (41  y4  M.)  Luxembourg  (p.  168). 

24.  From  Saarbrucken  to  Treves  and  Luxembourg. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  170. 

Railway  to  Trivet  (56  M.)  in  2-3>/«  bra.  (fares  7  m.  30,  5  m.  40, 3m.  60 pf.; 
express  8  m.  10,  6m.,  4  m.  10 pf.);  to  Luxembourg  (87  M.)  in  3l/a-5  hrs. 
'(fares  11  m.  40,  8  m.  30,  5  m.  50  pf.). 

Saarbrucken,  see  p.  154.  The  line  follows  the  course  of  the 
Soar.  Picturesque  scenery,  especially  between  Saarbrucken  and 
Saarlouis,  at  Mettlach,  and  at  Saarburg.  Numerous  manufactories 
are  passed.  4  M.  Louisenthal ;  6  M.  Vblklingen;  10  M.  Bous,  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Bolchen  and  Courcelles  (p.  155) ;  12l/2  M. 
Ensdorf* 

14  M.  Saarlouis  (*Rheiniscker  Hof;  Zwei  Hasen),  with  6800 
inhab.,  a  Prussian  fortress,  constructed  in  1680-85  by  Vauban  for 
Louis  XIV.,  was  the  birthplace  of  Marshal  Ney  (p.  157),  the  house 


TREVES.  24.  Route.     161 

of  whose  parents  is  indicated  by  a  marble  tablet.  The  town  lies  on 
a  peninsula  formed  by  the  Saar,  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
station  of  FraulauUrn.  About  2  M.  'to  the  N.  is  Wallerfangcn 
(Vaudrtfange),  once  a  fortified  place,  with  an  extensive  porcelain- 
manufactory  and  a  park. 

17  M.  Dillingen;  20  M.  Becking  en.  24y2M.  Mewig  (Trierscher 
Bof)j  with  a  pointed  basilica  of  the  12th  century.  About  1  M. 
lower  is  a  large  Lunatic  Asylum.  Before  (29  M.)  Mettlaeh  (*Zum 
Saarstrpm)  a  long  tunnel.  The  buildings  of  a  suppressed  Benedic- 
tine abbey,  founded  in  the  7th  cent.,  are  now  occupied  by  the  ex- 
tensive earthenware-factory  of  Villeroy  and  Boch. 

At  Mettlaeh  the  Saar  makes  a  considerable  circuit,  which  the  line 
avoids  by  the  above-mentioned  tunnel.  The  N.  point  of  the  hill  which 
it  penetrates  (1  i/f  hr.  to  the  X.W.  of  Mettlaeh ,  and  reached  by  a  shady 
path)  is  the  *01ef  (probably  from  clavis,  the  round  tower  which  once  stood 
here  having  formed  the  key  to  this  district),  affording  a  fine  survey  of  the 
two  arms  of  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  separated  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land. 
On  the  latter  stands  the  ruined  castle  of  Montclair ,  destroyed  in  1350  by 
Elector  Baldwin  of  Treves. 

One  mile  W.  of  the  Clef  (path  through  the  wood)  lies  Ortcholz 
(*Tbiellemanns) ,  from  which  a  carriage-road  leads  to  WeiUn,  21/*  H.  to 
the  N.  A  mile  farther  is  the  old  castle  of  Freudenburg,  and  1  M.  beyond 
it  a  finger-post  indicating  the  way  to  Oaatell.  Near  this  village,  on  a  bold 
rock  overhanging  the  Saar,  is  a  chapel  restored  by  Frederick  William  IV., 
in  which  he  deposited  the  bones  of  his  ancestor ,  the  blind  king  John  of 
Bohemia,  who  fell  at  Crexy  in  1346.  The  cell  hewn  in  the  rock  contains 
some  Roman  antiquities.    The  castellan  lives  in  the  village  below. 

The  line  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Saar.  Near  Saarburg  the 
chapel  of  CaatcU  (see  above)  is  seen  on  a  precipitous  wooded  rock 
on  the  right  bank.   401/2  M.  Beurig  is  the  station  for  — 

Saarburg  (Post;  Trierschcr  Hof),  picturesquely  situated  in  a 
basin,  and  commanded  by  the  considerable  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Electors  of  Treves.  The  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Lawrence  was  erected 
in  1856.  The  Leuk,  which  here  unites  with  the  Saar,  forms  a 
waterfall,  60  ft.  high,  near  the  Tost*. 

The  line  descends  the  valley  of  the  Saar,  passing  (1.)  Wiltingcn, 
(r.)  Scharzhof,  and  Ober-Ehnmel ,  celebrated  for  their  wines,  to 
£4972  M.)  Cons,  the  Roman  Consitium,  below  which  it  enters  the 
valley  of  the  Moselle.  The  bridge  over  the  Saar  at  Conz  is  men- 
tioned by  the  Roman  poet  Ausonius  (d.  392)  in  his  poem  'Mosella'. 
The  present  bridge  was  constructed  by  Clemens  Wenceslaus,  the  last 
Elector  of  Treves  (see  below). 

50  M.  Karthaus,  the  junction  of  the  Metz  and  Luxembourg  lines 
(pp.  167,  169). 

The  railway  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a  massive  stone  bridge, 
beyond  which  the  line  to  Treves  turns  to  the  right.  53 ^M-  Lowtn- 
brucken. 

55  M.  Trevei.  —  Hotels.  *Tbwbboh»b  Hop  (PI.  a;  F,  5),  B.  2  m.; 
♦Rothes  Hacs  (PI.  b,  F  3;  see  below)?  ♦Luxbmbuugbb  Hof  (PI.  c;  F,  4),  R. 
2,  A.  »/2,  D-  2l/s,  B.  i  m.:  *Stadt  Venedig  (PI.  d;  E,  5),  R.  and  B.  2»A, 
D.  2  m.;  Post  (PI.  e-,  E,  4),  opposite  the  post-office. 

Restaurants.  Cafi  Sttrn  (Fi*cher)y  in  the  market;  Kuff,  Neue-Str.  222 

Babdbkeb's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  11 


162    Route  24.  TREVES.  Porta  Nigra. 

(good  Moselle  wine);  Cafi  Germania,  with  garden,  and  Steinhaus,  both  in 
the  Fleisch-Str. ;  Schneider's  Hof,  on  an  eminence  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Moselle,  with  splendid  view  (comp.  p.  166). 

Oabs.  Per  drive  within  the  town,  to  the  station,  amphitheatre,  and 
Zurlauben,  for  1  pers.  50,  2  pers.  60  pf.-,  each  additional  pers.  25  pf.  mom. 
For  a  drive  of  an  hour  iy«  or  2V2  m.;  for  each  additional  20  min.,  50  or 
75  pf.  —  Longer  drives  according  to  bargain.  —  To  Jgel  (p.  167)  two- 
horse  carr.  about  6  m. 

Railway  Stations.  The  station  for  all  trains  is  now  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Moselle,  on  the  E,  side  of  the  town  (comp.  PI.  H,  2). 

Post  Offtee  (PI.  22%  E,  4),  Fleisch-Str.  75. 

Steamboat  to  Coblenz,  see  R.  25. 

Treves,  Ger.  Trier,  a  town  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle,  with 
24,140  inhab. ,  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  Germany,  belonged  to  the 
CivUas  Treverorum,  or  territory  of  the.Treveri,  a  tribe  of  Belgic 
Gauls  conquered  B.C.  56  by  Caesar.  It  is  uncertain  whether  there 
was  a  settlement  here  in  pre -Roman  times.  The  Roman  town, 
Colonia  Augusta  Treverorum,  was  probably  founded  by  Claudius, 
and  rapidly  rose  to  importance.  In  the  reign  of  Diocletian  Treves 
became  the  capital  of  Belgica  Prima,  and  during  the  4th  century  it 
was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  Roman  Emperors.  The  numerous 
relics  of  that  age  in  the  vicinity  are  among  the  finest  on  this  side 
of  the  Alps.  On  the  introduction  of  Christianity  by  Constantino, 
Agricius  of  Antioch  was  (328)  elected  first  Bishop  of  Treves ,  and 
for  nearly  15  centuries  the  town  continued  to  be  the  residence  of 
the  bishops ,  archbishops ,  and  electors ,  till  Clemens  Wenceslaus, 
the  last  elector,  a  Saxon  prince  (1768-1802;  d.  1812),  transferred 
his  residence  to  Coblenz  in  1786.  On  10th  Aug.  1794,  the  French 
captured  the  town,  and  in  1815  it  was  ceded  to  Prussia. 

The  surrounding  vine  -  clad  hills  and  wooded  heights ,  and  the 
rich  plain  in  which  the  town  with  its  red  sandstone  walls  and  nu- 
merous towers  is  situated,  are  strikingly  picturesque. 
'Trevir  metropolis,  urbs  amcenissima, 
Qua?  Bacchum  recolis,  Baccho  gratissima, 
Da  tuis  incolis  vina  fortissima 

Per  dulcor!1  Old  Saying. 

The  Mabkbt  lies  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  'Rothes 
Haus'  Hotel  (PI.  b;  F,  3),  situated  here,  a  late-Gothic  building  of 
the  15th  cent. ,  was  formerly  the  Rathhaus,  and  bears  the  inscription  : 
'Ante  Romam  Treviris  stetit  annis  MCCC',  referring  to  a  media  val 
tradition  that  Treves  was  founded  by  Trebeta,  son  of  the  Assyrian 
monarch  Ninus.  An  ancient  Column  in  the  Platz,  supposed  to  date 
from  958,  was  renewed  in  1723,  and  is  surmounted  with  a  cross 
with  the  Lamb  of  God.  The  St.  Peter sbrunnen,  a  beautiful  Renais- 
sance fountain,  was  erected  by  Elector  John  of  Schonberg  in  1595. 

The  Simeons- Strasse,  leading  out  of  the  market-place  towards  the 
N.,  terminates  in  the  *Porta  Nigra  (PI.  21;  F,  1),  also  named  Porta 
Martis,  Romerthor,  or  Simeonsihor,  a. gate  with  towers  of  defence, 
and  the  finest  of  the  Roman  structures  at  Treves.  This  magnificent 
relic  is  115  ft.  long ,  75-93  ft.  high,  and  29  ft.  in  depth.  It  con- 
sists of  three  stories ,  with  two  gateways ,  23  ft.  in  height ,  and  is 


Cathedral.  TREVES.  24.  Route.     163 

constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  lias  sandstone,  blackened  with  age  and 
fastened  with  iron  or  copper  braces  instead  of  mortar.  Opinions 
vary  as  to  its  age ,  but  the  fact  of  its  never  having  been  finished 
seems  to  point  to  an  origin  during  the  last  years  of  the  Roman  em- 
pire. The  interior  is  open  to  the  public  daily  in  summer  from  9  to 
11  (entrance  on  the  W.  side). 

The  Porta  Nigra  waa  a  fortified  city-gate,  the  exterior  of  which  could 
be  closed  by  a  portcullis  and  defended  by  the  two  towers.  If  the  enemy 
succeeded  in  storming  the  gate  he  found  himself  in  the  'propugnaculum*, 
a  small  enclosed  court,  secured  on  the  side  next  the  town  by  a  barricade 
and  exposed  to  a  raking  fire  from  all  parts  of  the  gate-house.  At  both 
ends  there  are  still  traces  of  the  junction  of  the  gate  with  the  walls,and 
at  the  W.  end  is  a  doorway,  which  opened  on  the  ramparts.  In  1028-35 
the  E.  tower  was  occupied  by  a  Greek  hermit  named  Simeon,  and  on  his 
death  the  structure  was  converted  into  two  churches,  one  above  the  other. 
In  1817  all  the  later  additions  were  removed  except  the  apse  at  the  E. 
end,  and  in  1876  the  original  Roman  structure  was  thoroughly  disclosed. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Market  Place  rises  the  "Cathedral  (Pi.  10;  F, 
G,  3),  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Germany,  the  nucleus  of  which 
consists  of  a  quadrangular  basilica  erected  by  the  Emp.  Valen- 
tinian  I.  (364-375),  either  for  a  court  of  law  or  as  a  baptistery.  This 
building,  which  was  of  the  same  breadth  as  the  present  edifice,  and 
extended  from  the  second  pillar  from  the  W.  entrance  to  the  E.  apse, 
seems  to  have  been  converted  into  a  Christian  church  during  the  Ro- 
man period.  In  the  centre  Btood  four  huge  granite oolumns,  connected 
by  arches,  some  remains  of  which  lie  in  the  cloister-garden  (see  be- 
low). The  church  was  partially  destroyed  by  the  Franks,  but  was  re- 
stored in  the  original  style  by  Bishop  Nicctitts,  who  held  the  see  from 
532  to  561 .  It  was  afterwards  again  devastated  by  the  Normans,  and 
restored  by  Archbishop  Poppo  (1016-47)  and  his  successors,  who 
increased  its  size  by  an  addition  of  one-third  at  the  W.  end,  in  the 
style  of  the  original  Roman  edifice,  and  alBO  built  an  apse.  The  E. 
apse  was  added  by  Bishop  HiUin  (1152-69).  The  vaulting  of  the 
nave  and  aisles  dates  from  the  loth  cent.;  the  circular,  dome- 
roofed  treasury  was  not  built  till  the  17th.  —  The  various  periods 
at  which  the  structure  has  been  built  are  all  clearly  visible  on  the 
N.  exterior ;  the  Roman  work  consists  of  sandstone  and  bricks,  that 
of  Archbp.  Poppo  is  partly  of  brick  and  partly  of  limestone.  Several 
Roman  arches  and  Franconian  capitals  have  also  been  exposed  to 
view  in  the  interior  by  the  removal  of  the  stucco. 

The  Interiob  is  open  the  whole  day  except  from  12  to  2.  In  the  vaults 
repose  26  archbishops  and  electors.  The  finest  monument  is  that  of  Jo- 
hann  III.  {ton  Metzenhauien,  d.  1640),  on  the  wall  of  the  N.  aisle.  On  the 
tombstone  of  Elector  Richard  HI.  iton  Oreifftnklau,  d.  1631),  the  successful 
opponent  of  Protestantism,  are  medallions  with  portraits  of  the  elector  on 
the  left ,  and  his  most  violent  antagonist,  Franz  von  Sickingen  (p.  266),  on 
the  right.  In  the  high-altar  are  deposited  some  highly-prised  relics,  among 
which  are  the  'Holy  Coat*  without  seam,  exhibited  at  rare  intervals,  and 
attracting  vast  crowds  of  pilgrims,  a  nail  from  the  Cross,  and  a  part  of  the 
Crown  of  Thorns.  By  the  steps  leading  to  the  high -altar  are  statues  of 
Conslantine  and  St.  Helena,  and  on  the  pulpit  reliefs  in  stone  of  1672,  re- 
presenting the  eight  Beatitudes  and  the  Last  Judgment.  Under  the  organ- 
loft  is  a  monument  to  Abp.  Baldwin,  brother  of  Emp.  Henry  IV. 

11* 


164    Route  24.  TREVES.  Basilica. 

Adjacent  to  the  cathedral ,  and  connected  with  it  by  beautiful 
Cloisters  of  the  13th  cent.,  is  the*Liebfrauenkirche(Pl.  15;F.  G,3), 
one  of  the  most  interesting  early-Gothic  churches  in  Germany,  built, 
it  is  supposed,  in  1227-43,  and  probably  in  imitation  of  the  abbey- 
church  of  Braisne  near  Soissons.  It  is  circular  in  form  (60  yds.  long, 
49  yds.  broad,  and  124  ft.  high),  intersected  by  a  lofty,  vaulted  cross, 
and  supported  by  12  slender  pillars ,  on  which  the  12  apostles  are 
represented,  probably  painted  in  the  15th  cent,  (visible  simultane- 
ously from  a  slab  of  slate  in  the  pavement ,  about  8  paces  from  the 
entrance).  The  church  contains  numerous  monuments  of  ecclesiasti- 
cal dignitaries,  and  the  mummy  of  Bishop  Theodulf,  who  died  in  the 
6th  century.  To  the  right  of  the  high-altar  is  an  altar-piece  (St. 
Sebastian)  ascribed  to  Guido  Reni.  The  sacristy  possesses  an  in- 
teresting old  side-door  and  contains  the  *Monument  of  Johann  Se- 
gensis  (d.  1564),  with  a  portrait.  The  *  Portal  is  richly  decorated 
with  sculptures,  symbolical  of  the  Old  and  New  Testament,  etc., 
dating  from  the  erection  of  the  church. 

The  other  churches  of  Treves  are  comparatively  uninteresting. 

In  the  S.E.  Quarter  there  are  several  interesting  relics  of  the 
Roman  period. 

The  *Ba«lica(Pl.  9;  G,  4,  5),  built  entirely  of  brick,  prob- 
ably in  the  reign  of  the  Emp.  Constantino,  served  originally  for  the 
administration  of  justice  and  for  commercial  purposes,  like  the 
similar  ancient  Roman  structures  at  Rome  itself  and  elsewhere. 
Early  in  the  middle  ages  it  was  the  seat  of  the  governors  appointed 
by  the  Frankish  sovereigns,  and  in  1197  it  was  made  over  to  the 
bishops.  When  the  town  became  Prussian,  it  was  used  as  a  barrack, 
but  after  1846  it  was  restored  by  order  of  Frederick  William  IV., 
and  in  1856  consecrated  as  a  Protestant  church.  The  interior,  ter- 
minating in  an  apse  at  the  N.  end ,  is  lighted  by  a  double  row  of 
windows.  The  Basilica  is  225  ft.  long,  100  ft.  wide,  and  98  ft.  high. 
*  The  N.W.  side  up  to  the  lower  row  of  windows ,  the  apse ,  and  the 
lofty  arch  between  the  nave  and  the  apse  are  all  antique.  The  S. 
facade  and  the  E.  side,  on  the  other  hand,  are  almost  entirely  modern. 
The  entrance  for  the  public  was  at  the  S.  end \  the  two  smaller  entrances 
near  the  apse  were  probably  for  the  use  of  the  judges.  The  interior  was 
richly  decorated  with  painting,  some  relics  of  which  may  be  inspected 
in  the  museum.    Below  the  floor  was  a  hypocaust,  or  heating-apparatus. 

The  *Roman  Palace  (PI.  24 ;  H ,  6) ,  entered  from  the  Prome- 
nade, and  also  from  the  Exeroier-Platz,  lies  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
town,  and  forms  a  picturesque  group  of  ruins,  part  of  which  is  65  ft. 
high.  The  name  of  Roman  Baths,  by  which  these  ruins  were  long 
known,  is  undoubtedly  a  misnomer,  as  the  public  baths  of  the  town 
have  been  discovered  in  the  suburb  of  St.  Barbara.  In  the  middle 
ages  the  building  was  used  alternately  as  a  church  and  as  a  fortress. 
The  rubbish  in  the  interior  accumulated  to  such  an  extent ,  that 
one  of  the  windows  was  once  used  as  an  entrance  to  the  town. 

The  best-preserved  part  of  the  edifice  is  a  Rectangular  Room ,  with 
three  apses,  at  the  S.E.  end,  formerly  lighted  by  two  rows  of  arched 


Town  Library.  TREVES.  24.  Route.     165 

windows,  and  heated  by  channels  for  hot  air,  many  of  which  are  still 
visible.  To  the  right  and  left  of  this  chamber  stood  two  Towkks  ,  one 
of  which  is  still  extant  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  ruins  and  of 
the  town  (ascent  by  a  steep  spiral  staircase).  —  At  the  N.W.  end,  where 
the  excavations  are  still  in  progress,  various  circular  and  square  rooms 
and  subterranean  passages  have  been  brought  to  light. 

On  a  rising  ground  about  7*  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Baths  (comp. 
PI.  H,  7) ,  is  the  *  Amphitheatre ,  locally  known  as  the  Kaskeller, 
situated  among  vineyards.  This  arena,  still  in  excellent  preser- 
vation ,  with  a  diameter  from  N.  to  S.  of  76  yds.,  and  from  E.  to 
W.  of  53  yds. ,  was  capable  of  accommodating  30,000  spectators. 
(That  at  Verona  held  70,000  spectators ,  the  Colosseum  at  Rome 
87,000.)  The  E.  half  is  built  into  the  rocky  side  of  the  hill ,  while 
the  W.  is  raised  to  the  same  level  by  artificial  means.  At  the  N. 
and  S.  ends  are  gateways ,  each  with  three  openings ,  that  in  the 
centre  leading  to  the  arena,  and  those  at  the  sides  to  the  seats  for 
spectators.  There  are  also  two  entrances  for  the  public  on  the  W. 
side.  The  dens  for  the  wild  beasts  and  the  chambers  for  the  gla- 
diators are  still  traceable  adjacent  to  the  arena.  The  amphitheatre 
was  probably  built  in  the  reign  of  Trajan  or  Hadrian.  In  306  Con- 
stantino here  sullied  his  fame  by  causing  several  thousand  captive 
Franks,  with  their  leaders  Ascarich  and  Ragais,  to  be  torn  to 
pieces  by  wild  beasts;  and  in  313 ,  thousands  of  the  Bructeri  were 
barbarously  sacrificed  for  the  amusement  of  the  people. 

The  Town  Library,  at  the  Gymnasium  (PI.  26*;  F,  5;  adm. 
9-11),  contains  some  rare  printed  works  and  numerous  valuable 
manuscripts. 

Among  the  printed  books  are  several  *  incunabula'  or  works  of  the 
15th  cent,  (when  the  art  of  printing  still  lay  in  its  cradle,  cin  cunabulis'), 
including  the  Bible  of  Fust  and  Gutenberg  of  1450,  and  the  Catholicon  of 
1460.  —  One  of  the  most  interesting  MSS.  is  the  Codex  Aureus,  containing 
the  four  Gospels,  presented  by  Ada  (d.  809),  a  reputed  sister  of  Charle- 
magne ,  to  the  Abbey  of  St.  Maximin.  It  is  illuminated  with  allegorical 
paintings,  and  the  binding  is  superbly  adorned  with  jewels  and  a  cameo 
of  uncommon  size,  representing  the  Familia  Augusta.  The  *Codex  Eg- 
berti,  dating  from  about  970,  is  perhaps  the  finest  extant  specimen  of 
the  art  of  illumination  at  that  period.  The  miniatures  combine  the  best 
traditions  of  Carlovingian  art  with  the  new  influences  of  the  classical- 
Italian  school.  The  Liber  Aureus  contains  documents  of  the  convent  of 
Priim,  ranging  from  the  9th  to  the  11th  century,  and  admirably  illustrat- 
ing the  advance  of  the  illuminator's  art.  —  Several  letters  of  Luther,  one 
from  Bliicher  on  the  death  of  Queen  Louisa,  etc.,  are  also  interesting. 
The  Ante-Chamber  contains  portraits  of  Electors  of  Treves,  the  Duke  of 
Alva,  Huss,  Sickingen,  and  others. 

The  ""Provincial  Museum  in  the  same  building  (open  daily  in 
summer  from  11  to  1,  Sun.  and  Wed.  free,  at  other  times  50  pf. ; 
in  winter  11  to  1,  Sun.  and  Wed.  free,  Frid.  50 pf.,  at  other  times 
75 pf.)  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  Roman  and  mediaeval 
antiquities. 

To  the  bight.  Room  I.  Mosaic  pavement,  found  at  Oberweis:  Tomb 
from  Welschbillig;  "Torso  of  an  Amazon  in  marble,  found  in  the  Thermae 
of  Treves  (see  below).  Extensive  collection  of  Roman  glass;  shallow 
earlv-Christian  vessel  with  a  representation  of  Abraham  and  Isaac  *,  goblet 
with  caterpillars  in  high  relief.    Etruscan  bronze  vessels ;  fine  statuettes 


166    Route  24.  TREVES. 

in  bronze.  —  Rooms  II.  &  III.  contain  sculptures  from  Neumagen  (p.  180), 
chiefly  from  tombs.  In  B.  II.:  Group  of  a  bear  devouring  a  ram;  Belief, 
with  battles  of  Tritons  and  sea-monsters ;  *Two  galleys  laden  with  wine- 
casks  (noticeable  the  cleverly  depicted  humorous  expression  of  one  of 
the  steersmen).  On  the  walls,  frescoes  from  the  Basilica  (p.  164),  and 
imitations  of  Roman  mosaics  found  at  Treves.  In  R.  III. :  Reliefs  of  cap- 
tured warriors,  and  ladies  at  their  toilette;  Youths  counting  money; 
Schoolmaster.  In  the  middle  of  the  room,  Statue  of  a  Roman  peasant, 
found  at  Langsur  (p.  167).  Fine  torso  of  Cupid  on  an  ancient  column  of 
darkgreen  marble  (4verde  antico'),  found  at  Treves.  At  the  wall:  Reliefs 
of  a  stag  and  a  lynx,  found  at  Treves.  —  Rook  IV.  Objects  found  in  a 
Roman  burial-place  outside  the  Porta  Nigra ;  to  the  right  by  the  window 
is  part  of  the  burial-place  arranged  as  it  was  when  discovered.  The  case 
to  the  left  contains  the  more  valuable  articles.  —  Valuable  collection  of 
pottery  from  Nassau,  Siegburg,  etc. ;  mediaeval  weapons ;  Greek  and  Egyp- 
tian antiquities ;  a  mummy. 

To  the  left.  Collection  of  Coins.  Early  Christian  inscriptions  from 
the  churches  of  SS.  Matthew,  Maximin,  and  Paulin.  Sarcophagus,  with 
relief  of  Noah's  Ark.  Mosaics.  Pre-historic  Collection.  Reconstruction 
of  a  Roman  room. 

In  the  suburb  of  St.  Barbeln,  adjoining  the  new  Kaiser-Strasse 
(PI.  C,D,7),  are  the  Roman  Bathsy  an  Imposing  structure  of  the  3rd 
or  4th  cent.,  recently  excavated.  In  front  of  the  N.  facade,  which 
is  now  exposed  to  view,  was  a  large  court,  extending  as  far  as  the 
mediaeval  city-wall.  The  various  basins  and  water-conduits  are  also 
disclosed.  The  baths  were  richly  adorned  with  marble  and  mosaics. 

Adjacent  is  the  Moselle  Bridge  (PI.  B,  7),  with  eight  arches, 
some  of  the  buttresses  of  which  are  of  Roman  origin.  The  second 
and  seventh  buttresses  from  the  town-side  were  blown  up  by  the 
French  in  1689,  and  restored  in  1729.  The  bridge  has  recently  been 
skilfully  widened  and  levelled.  —  The  Railway  Station  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Moselle  is  now  used  for  goods  traffic  only. 

The  *Mariens&ule,  a  tower  with  a  colossal  statue  of  the  Virgin, 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river  opposite  Treves,  between  the 
bridge  and  the  village  of  Pallien  (PI.  A,  1),  and  about  1  */2  M.  from  the 
former ,  affords  the  best  survey  of  the  town  and  its  beautiful  en- 
virons. The  traveller  should  return  through  the  entrance  to  the 
Pallien-Thal ,  a  picturesque  glimpse  of  which  is  obtained  through 
the  arch  of  a  bridge  built  by  Napoleon.  A  little  beyond  the  ferry 
which  connects  Pallien  with  Zurlauben  (*Cafe-Restaurant  Mett- 
lach)  on  the  opposite  bank,  on  the  hill,  lie  the  Schneiders-Hof 
Restaurant  and  the  manor  of  Weisshaus}  with  a  pretty  park,  always 
open  to  the  public.  A  little  higher  up  is  the  Kockehberg  (Restau- 
rant), commanding  an  admirable  view.  Farther  down  the  stream  is 
a  second  ferry. 

About  3/4  h.  to  the  S.  of  Treves  is  situated  the  venerable  Church  of 
St.  Matthew,  dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  12th  cent.,  with  alter- 
ations made  in  the  16th  and  18th  cent.,  and  said  to  contain  the  sarco- 
phagus of  the  Evangelist  (a  favourite  resort  of  pilgrims).  —  About  '/«M.  to 
the  N.  of  the  town  is  St.  Paulin,  with  an  interesting  rococo  church  of 
the  early  part  of  the  18th  cent.,  richly  adorned  with  frescoes.  In  the 
vicinity  is  a  spot  marked  by  a  Cross  where  some  of  the  early  Christians 
suffered  martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  the  Romans.  Near  it  is  the  vener- 
able Abbey  of  St.  Maximin,  now  a  barrack  (PI.  H,  1). 


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•  IGEL.  24.  Route.     167 

V    The  Luxbmboubg  Linb  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Moselle  as 

fa*  as  Karthaus.  —  5672  M.  Lawenbrueken. 

-v.       60  M.  Karthaus ,   the  junction  of  the  Mete  and  Luxembourg 

-Jline  (p.  161).    Opposite  the  station  is  an  old  Carthusian  convent, 

*$*  still  partly  preserved ,  with  the  ruins  of  a  church.    The  train  now 

crosses  the  Moselle. 

62  M.  Igel,  an  Inconsiderable  village ,  containing  one  of  the 
most  interesting  Roman  relics  to  the  N.  of  the  Alps,  the  celebrated 
*Igel  Monument,  popularly  called  the  'Heidenthurm*  (heathens' 
tower) ,  and  visible  from  the  railway.  The  monument  is  a  square 
sandstone  column,  75  ft.  in  height,  and  16 ^2  ft.  broad  at  the  base, 
and  was  erected  as  a  funeral  monument  by  the  rich  mercantile 
family  of  Secundlni,  probably  in  the  latter  half  of  the  third  cent, 
after  Christ.  It  bears  appropriate  inscriptions,  some  of  which  are 
now  illegible ,  and  also  several  reliefs  of  scenes  of  daily  life  and 
mythological  representations,  such  as  Hylas  and  the  Nymphs,  Apollo 
and  the  chariot  of  the  Sun,  Mars  and  Rhea  Sylvia,  the  Apotheosis 
of  fiereules,  Perseus  and  Andromeda,  and  Hercules  with  the  apples 
of  the  Hesperides.  From  the  church  on  the  hill  behind  the  mon- 
ument a  fine  view  is  enjoyed  of  the  country  around.  Above  Igel  are 
extensive  gypsum-quarries. 

Near  (6472  M.)  WasserbiUig  the  line  crosses  the  frontier  of 
Luxembourg ;  scenery  picturesque ;  the  Sauer  (Sure)  here  unites 
with  the  Moselle ,  after  having  for  some  distance  formed  the  boun- 
dary between  Prussia  and  Luxembourg.  Near  its  mouth  is  the  priory 
of  Langsur. 

Fkom  Wasserbillig  to  Diekikch,  30  M.,  railway  in  iy*-2V4  hrs. 
(fares  4  fr.,  2  fr.  35,  1  fr.  35  c).  The  line  follows  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
Sure,  but  at  some  distance  from  the  river.  —  4!/2  M.  Born;  8  M.  Rosport. 

13  M.  Echternach  ("Hirtch,  also  'pension'),  a  small  town,  with  a  well- 
preserved  Benedietine  abbey,  which  maintained  its  independence  down 
to  1801.  The  abbey-church  of  *St.  Willibrord  is  a  Romanesque  edifice  of 
1017-31,  skilfully  restored  since  1861.  The  walls  of  the  nave  are  support- 
ed alternately  by  pillars  and  columns ,  as  in  St.  Michael's  at  Hildesheim 
and  other  churches  of  Lower  Saxony.  The  proportions  of  the  interior  are 
very  light  and  elegant,  and  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are  beautifully  exe- 
cuted. Echternach  is  noted  for  the  singular  'Leaping  Procession'*,  which 
takes  place  every  Whit-Tuesday  and  is  participated  in  by  12-15,000  pil- 
grims from  the  country  round.  Picturesque  walk  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Jure,  with  view  of  the  town  and  its  pretty  environs. 

17  M.  Bollendorf,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sure*  24  M.  ReUdorf;  27  M. 
Bettendorf. 

30  M.  Diekireh  {"U6tel  det  Ardennes,  'pens.'  5  ft.),  a  small  town  pret- 
tily situated  on  the  Sure.  Pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  hence  to  the 
ruin  of  Brandenburg,  to  Burscheid,  and  to  Vianden  {H6tel  du  Luxembourg). 
a  small  and  ancient  town ,  8  M.  to  the  N.,  in  the  valley  of  the  Our,  a 
tributary  of  the  Sure.  Vianden  is  commanded  by  an  imposing  ruined 
castle  of  the  Counts  of  Nassau ;  the  elegant  decagonal  chapel  was  restored 
in  1849.    The  church  contains  a  few  tombstones  of  the  l5-16th  centuries. 

Prom  Diekirch  to  Ettelbrllck  (p.  169),  2»/2  M.,  railway  in  15-20  minutes. 

Near  (65  M.)  Mertert  the  train  quits  the  Moselle  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Sire.  To  the  right  Manternach,  with  a  large  paper- 
manufactory.    70  M.  Wecker;  74  M.  Roodt;  79  M.  Oetringen.    The 


168     Route  2d.  LUXEMBOURG.  • 

train  then  crosses  the  Pulverthal  by  a  viaduct  275  yds.  long  and 
100  ft.  high.  The  station  of  Luxembourg,  situated  on  the  right  side 
of  the  Petrusthal ,  is  connected  with  the  town  by  a  handsome  via- 
duct (omnibus  to  the  hotels  1  fr.), 

87M.  Luxembourg,  formerly  IMzeVburg  (*H6tel  de  Cologne; 
Hotel  de  V Europe;  Hotel  Brasseur,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  dea  Ar- 
dennes ;  *Fober's  Restaurant ;  Cafi  Italien ;  Cafi  de  la  Place ;  good 
photographs  at  BrucWs  book-shop"),  formerly  a  fortress  of  the  Ger- 
man Confederation,  a  town  with  16,000  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Luxemburg,  which  is  subject  to  the  king  of  Hol- 
land. The  situation  of  the  town  is  peculiar  and  picturesque.  The 
Oberstadt,  or  upper  part,  is  perched  upon  a  rocky  table-land,  which 
is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  abrupt  precipices ,  200  ft.  in  height. 
At  the  foot  of  these  flow  the  Petrusbach  and  the  Alzette,  which  are 
bounded  by  equally  precipitous  rocks  on  the  opposite  bank.  In  this 
narrow  ravine  lies  the  busy  Vnterstadt  or  lower  portion  of  the  town, 
consisting  of  Pfajfenthal,  the  N.,  Clausen,  the  E.,  and  Orund,  the 
S.  suburb,  separated  by  a  rocky  ridge  in  the  valley  of  the  Alzette. 
The  view  of  the  town  with  its  variety  of  mountain  and  valley,  gar- 
dens and  rocks,  military  edifices  and  groups  of  trees,  obtained  from 
the  Treves  road,  is  singularly  striking,  and  is  enhanced  by  the  rail- 
way-viaduct and  the  huge  Petrus  Viaduct  which  connects  the  rail- 
way-station with  the  S.  part  of  the  Oberstadt. 

The  fortifications,  which  were  condemned  to  demolition  in  1867, 
are  partly  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  are  now  almost  all  acces- 
sible ;  a  visit  to  them  is  interesting,  as  Luxembourg  has  long  been 
considered  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  Europe. 

The  construction  of  the  works  gradually  progressed  during  500  years 
under  various  possessors,  —  Henry  IV.,  Count  of  Luxembourg,  afterwards 
German  Emp.  as  Henry  VII.  (d.  1312),  his  son  John,  the  blind  king  of 
Bohemia  (killed  at  Cre'cy,  1346),  the  Burgundians,  the  Spaniards,  the 
French  (whose  celebrated  engineer  Vauban  constructed  a  great  part  of 
the  fortress),  the  Austrians,  the  French  again,  and  finally  the  German 
Confederation,  by  whom  it  was  evacuated  in  1866. 

Apart  from  its  fortifications,  curious  situation,  and  pretty  environs, 
Luxembourg  offers  little  to  detain  the  traveller.  The  Athenaeum  (PI. 
2 ;  B,  3)  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  Roman  glass,  bronzes, 
and  other  antiquities ,  found  chiefly  in  the  Roman  camp  at  Dahl- 
heim.  —  A  small  collection  of  pictures  waB  bequeathed  to  the  town 
in  1855  by  M.  J.  P.  Pescatore,  and  is  always  open  (PL  21 ;  fee).  — 
Of  the  magnificent  castle  of  the  Spanish  Governor  Count  Mansfeld 
(1545-1604),  in  the  suburb  of  Clausen  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Alzette  (to  the  N.W.),  no  vestige  is  left,  except  a  small 
portion  of  the  wall  and  two  gateways,  into  which  several  interest- 
ing Roman  sculptures  are  built.  The  once  famous  Mansfeld  Gar- 
dens now  only  nominally  exist  in  a  walk  (striking  view)  along  the 
E.  slope  of  the  hill ,  near  the  Treves  Gate.  The  traveller  who  has 
leisure  will  be  repaid  by  a  walk  through  the  entire  valley. 


NENNIG.  24.  Route,     169 

Fbok  Luxsmbodbo  to  Tbois  Vibboxb  (Pepinster,  Liege),  43  M.,  railway 
in  2V4-3hrs.  (fares  5  m.  60,  3  m.  70,  2m.  40  pf.).  —  The  line  ascends  the 
valley  of  ihe  Alzette.  2]A  M.  Dommeldange;  4>/z  M.  Wolferdange;  7y«  H. 
Lorentzweiler ;  9  M.  Lintgen. 

11  M.  Kerach  (Petite  Croix  d'Or),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Etich, 
Maimer,  and  Alzette,  the  valleys  of  which  afford  pleasant  excursions.  To 
the  W.  are  the  chateau  of  Hollenfele  and  the  ruined  convent  of  Marten- 
thai  in  the  valley  of  the  Eisch,  and  the  handsome  chateau  of  Schdnfel* 
in  the  valley  of  the  Mamer;  to  the  E.  lie  the  chateau  and  park  of  Mey- 
semburffy  the  property  of  Prince  Arenberg,  and  the  picturesquely  situated 
little  town  of  La  Rochette. 

14  M .  Kruchten.  16  M.  Coknar-Berg,  with  an  old  chiteau  of  the  Counts 
of  Nassau,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Alzette  and  Attert. 

I8V2  M.  Ettelhriick  (H6tel  du  Luxembourg),  a  small  town,  pleasantly  ' 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Warcke  and  the  Alzette.    Fine  view  from 
the  Herreriberg.    Branch-railway  to  IHekirch,  see  p.  167. 

23  M.  Michelau,  whence  a  visit  may  he  paid  to  the  0/a  hr.)  imposing 
ruins  of  the  castle  of  Burscheid,  below  which  is  a  tunnel.  The  finest 
scenery  on  the  line  is  at  this  point.  —  251/2  M.  OoebelsmUMe ,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Wolz  and  the  Sure  (p.  167).  —  28  M.  Kautenbach,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  WUz  and  the  Wolz.  —  31  Vs  M.  WilwerutUte;  to  the  right 
is  the  ruined  castle  of  Schieburg.  —  38  M.  Clervaux  (Ger.  Clerf),  a  pictur- 
esquely situated  place  (Hdtel  Koner)  to  the  E.  of  the  line,  with  an  old 
castle ,  visible  before  and  after  the  passage  of  the  tunnel,  but  not  from 
the  station.  The  castle  was  formerly  in  the  possession  of  the  Seigneurs 
de  Lannoy,  the  most  famous  of  whom  was  Charles  VYs  general ,  Charles 
de  Lannoy,  the  conqueror  of  Francis  I.  at  the  battle  of  Pavia.  The  interior 
has  been  modernised.  —  40  M.  Mauluemilhle. 

43  M.  Troie  Vierget,  Ger.  Uljlingen,  the  frontier-station  of  Luxembourg. 
—  Hence  to  Stavelot,  Spa,  Liege,  etc.,  see  Baedeker1*  Belgium  and  Holland. 

From  Luxembourg  to  Thionville  and  Metz,  see  p.  160. 

From  Trbvbs  to  Thionvillb,  43l/2  M.,  railway  in  1%  hr. 
(fares  5  m.  80,  4m. 20,  2m.80pf.).  —  The  line,  a  prolongation  of 
that  described  in  R.  25,  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  above 
Treves.  IV2  M.  Lowenbrucken.  5  M.  Karthaus,  the  junction  of 
the  Saarbriicken  line  (p.  161).  Below  the  bridge  at  Conz  (p.  161) 
the  train  crosses  the  Soar,  affording  a  view  of  the  pretty  valley  of 
that  Btream.  8  M.  Wasserliesch ;  13  M.  Wellen.  Near  (15  M.)  Nittel 
the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel.    18  M.  Winchringen. 

25  M.  Henuig  (Zur  Romischen  Villa) ,  with  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  villa,  excavated  in  1852,  containing  a  remarkably  fine 
*Mosaic  Pavement ,  49  ft.  long  and  33  ft.  broad.  It  is  nearly  as 
large  as  the  Mosaic  of  the  Athletes  in  the  Lateran  at  Rome ,  and 
perhaps  surpasses  that  celebrated  work  in  artistic  execution.  The 
principal  scene  represents  a  combat  of  gladiators ,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  seven  medallions  with  animals,  fencers,  and  musicians. 

29  M.  Perl  (Greiveldinger),  the  first  place  in  Lorraine.  32  M. 
Sierek  (Hdtel  Metz ;  Ooldner  Lbwt),  a  small  and  ancient  town  with 
1800  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Mo- 
selle, and  commanded  by  the  conspicuous  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Dukes  of  Lorraine.  About  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  is  Schloss  Menaberg, 
popularly  known  as  Schloss  Marlborough,  from  its  occupation  by  the 
great  British  general.    36  M.  Mallingen;  38 V2  M.  Konigsmachern. 

43V2  M-  Thionville,  see  p.  160. 


170 


25.  The  Moselle  from  Coblenz  to  Trfeves. 


Railway  (69^2  H.)  in  2V«-3V4  hrs.  (fares  9  m.,  6  m.  80,  4  m.  50  pf.  •,  ex- 
press, 10  m.  10,  7  m.  50,  or  5  m.  30  pf.).  The  trains  start  from  the  'Mosel- 
bahnhof  (p.  90).  —  View  to  the  left. 

Steamboat  (117  M.)  four  times  weekly  in  IV2  day  (fares  6  m.,  4  m.). 
The  night  is  spent  at  Trarbach,  and  Treves  is  reached  about  3  p.m.  on 
the  second  day.  The  descent  from  Treves  to  Coblenz  occupies  only  11-12 
hrs.  (fares  8  m.,  5  m.  30  pf.).  The  river  is  sometimes  so  low  that  the 
steamboats  have  to  cease  running.  —  Local  Steamboats  :  between  Coblenz 
and  Cochem  daily  in  summer,  except  Friday ,  leaving  Coblenz  at  1  p.m. 
and  Cochem  at  5  a.m.  (1  m.  80,  1  m.  20  pf.).  —  The  steamboat -pier  at 
Coblenz  lies  between  the  two  bridges  over  the  Moselle  (PI.  A,  2) ,  and  is 
reached  by  descending  to  the  left  of  the  approach  to  the  old  bridge  and 
passing  through  the  gateway.  [It  is  probable  that  the  Moselle  steamers 
will  cease  plying  altogether  in  the  course  of  1882.] 

The  Valley  of  the  Moselle  is  not  unworthy  of  comparison  with  that  of 
the  Rhine.  The  scenery  is  remarkably  picturesque  at  places,  the  wooded 
and  vine -clad  hills  present  a  great  variety  of  form,  and  the  valley  is 
enlivened  with  smiling  villages  and  ruined  castles.  The  finest  portion  is 
between  Coblenz  and  a  point  a  little  above  Berncastel.  The  prevailing 
stillness  affords  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  Rhine. 
Charming  excursions  may  be  made  in  the  wooded  lateral  valleys,  the 
beauties  of  which  are  often  enhanced  by  picturesque  ruins,  and  magni- 
ficent views  are  afforded  by  the  tops  of  numerous  hills.  The  region 
watered  by  the  Moselle  is  also  rich  in  political  and  historical  associations, 
extending  back  to  the  time  of  the  Romans ;  and  a  Roman  poet,  Decitu  M. 
Ausonivs  (circa  309-392),  has  celebrated  the  praises  of  this  river  in  a  poem 
entitled  'Mosella\  The  Moselle  wines  have  long  been  famous  for  their 
delicate  bouquet  (see  p.  xxiii).  The  pedestrian  will  find  the  valley  admir- 
ably adapted  for  a  walking-tour,  which  is  greatly  facilitated  by  numerous 
fairly  comfortable  though  small  and  unpretending  inns.  The  letters  R.B. 
and  L.B.  denote  the  right  and  left  banks  with  reference  to  the  traveller 
descending  the  river. 

The  train  skirts  the  base  of  the  Karthause  (p.  94 ;  to  the  right 
the  Kcmperhof  orphanage^,  and  above  Mosclweis  ("Rosschen ,  with 
'pens.')  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a  handsome  iron  bridge  with  three 
spans  of  213  ft.  each. 

2*/2  M.  QuU  (steamb.  stat. ;  Zillien),  a  prettily-situated  village, 
much  frequented  by  the  Coblenzers  when  the  cherry-trees  are  in 
blossom.  The  train  traverses  the  orchard-like  district  of  Gills,  skirt- 
ing the  vine-clad  hills,  and  passes  Lay,  a  village  on  the  right  bank. 

5M.  Winningen  (steamb.  stat.;  *Schwan;  *Adler;  Anker;  Hof- 
bauer),  a  market-town  with  1700  inhab.,  once  belonging  to  the 
county  of  Sponheim,  and  hence  forming,  like  several  other  places 
on  the  Moselle  (Enkirch,  Trarbach,  etc.);  a  Protestant  'enclave'  in 
the  midst  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Electorate  of  Treves.  A  figure  of 
Germania  has  been  erected  here  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71 . 

Beautiful  walk  past  the  Distelberaer  Hof  (Inn)  to  the  (»/«  hr.)  Btonulay 
and  the  O/2  hr.)  Rothe  Lay,  two  fine  points  of  view.  —  On  the  right  bank 
of  the  Moselle  above  Winningen  opens  the  Conderthal ,  with  a  mineral 
spring,  a  pleasant  walk  through  which  brings  us  in  iy2  hr.  to  the  KVh- 
*opf  (P-  96 ;  refreshments  at  the  Remstecker  Hof,  a  forester's  house). 

Farther  up  the  river  the  left  bank  consists  of  lofty  and  precipi- 
tous rocks,  called  the  Wirminger  and  Coberner  Ulen ,  every 
available  spot  on  which  is  planted  with  vines,  producing  the  best- 


BRODENBACH.  25.  Route.     171 

flavoured  wine  of  the  Lower  Moselle.  —  On  the  opposite  (r.)  bank 
lies  Ditblich  (N5rtershauBer),  with  a  handBome  church. 

L.B.  (9y2M.-)  Cobern  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Simonis)1  commanded  by 
two  castles.  The  railway-station  lies  above  Cobern,  on  the  Gondorf 
road.  Near  it  is  a  large  Roman  stone  sarcophagus,  one  of  several 
found  in  this  neighbourhood  in  1878  during  the  construction  of  the 
railway.  A  steep  footpath  ascends  through  the  vineyards  (the  path 
with  the  pilgrimage-stations  is  longer,  but  easier)  to  the  picturesque 
NUdcrburg,  once  the  seat  of  the  knights  of  Cobern,  the  last  of  whom 
was  executed  at  Coblenz  in  1536.  Higher  up  is  situated  the  Ober- 
or  Altenburg,  within  which  is  the  interesting  *Chapel  of  St.  Matthias, 
a  hexagonal  edifice  in  the  late-Romanesque  style,  begun  in  1230, 
and  measuring  53  ft.  from  angle  to  angle.  The  central  portion  rises 
above  the  rest,  and  is  supported  by  six  columns.  The  very  elaborate 
decorations  are  executed  in  a  masterly  style,  and  the  acoustic 
properties  of  the  chapel  are  excellent.  It  was  restored  by  Frederick 
William  IV.  Fine  view  of  the  valley 

Farther  up,  on  the  same  (1.)  bank,  lies  Gondorf  (*Haupt),  with 
the  Temptlhof,  a  Gothic  castle,  recently  restored,  and  an  old 
electoral  chateau,  partly  destroyed,  and  now  used  as  a  parsonage. 

On  the  opposite  bank  lie  Niederfell  (Fassbender)  and  Kuhr. 
The  church  at  Niederfell  contains  the  altars  formerly  in  the 
abbey  of  Marienroth ,  3  M.  from  the  river ,  which  was  destroyed 
by  the  peasants  in  1794. 

IO1/2  M.  Lehmen  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Zirwas),  with  a  modern  castel- 
lated chateau.    The  river  is  bordered  here  with  precipitous  crags. 

R.B.  OberfelL  Above  (13  M.)  Kaienes  the  river  flows  through  a 
narrow  gorge,  in  which  are  several  mills. 

R.B.  Aiken  (steamb.  stat. ;  *  Comes,  unpretending),  an  old  town 
with  medieval  houses  and  fortifications,  now  comes  suddenly  into 
view.  On  the  hill  above  it  rise  the  towers  of  the  old  castle  of  Thuron, 
or  Thurantt  built  by  Count  Palatine  Heinrich  (p.  89)  about  1200,  and 
a  frequent  object  of  dispute  between  the  Counts  Palatine  and  the 
Electors  of  Cologne  and  Treves.  It  was  besieged  by  the  two  Arch- 
bishops in  1246-48,  when  600,000  gallons  of  wine  are  said  to  have 
been  consumed  by  the  assailants.  The  chroniclers  also  relate  that 
the  towns-people,  having  discovered  that  their  governor  was  med- 
itating a  treacherous  surrender,  shot  him  from  a  catapult  across 
the  valley  into  the  enemy's  camp,  where  he  arrived  without  scath. 
The  chapel  on  the  Bltidtiibtrg,  to  the  N.,  is  a  memorial  of  the  fact, 
and  of  the  governor's  gratitude  for  his  miraculous  escape.  —  14  M. 
Loef. 

R.B.  Brodenbach  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Post),  pleasantly  situated  at 
the  base  of  a  lofty  wooded  hill. 

Just  above  Brodenbach  is  the  mouth  of  a  narrow  ravine,  which  ex- 
panda  about  V2  M.  from  the  river  and  contains  a  number  of  mills.  Near 
the  first  of  these  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  left  between  two  rocks  and  leads 
past  a  (3  min.)  point  of  view  to  the  (7s  hr.)  *Bhrenburg,  the  finest  ruin  on 


172    Route  25.  MOSELKERN.  The  MosOU  from 

the  Moselle,  situated  on  an  isolated  peak.  A  vaulted,  winding  carriage-way 
leads  to  the  foot  of  the  two  towers,  which  command  a  beautiful  panorama. 
The  knights  of  Ehrenburg  waged  frequent  feuds  with  the  town  of  Coblenz. 
The  castle  now  belongs  to  the  Countess  von  Kielmannsegge  (p.  196).  — 
About  2  M.  farther  up  the  valley  is  Schloss  Sehdneek.  —  From  the  Ehren- 
burg to  Boppard,  2l/z  hrs. ;  comp.  p.  103. 

An  overhanging  cliff  is  now  passed  on  the  left  bank  (lBattonis 
Porta'),  beyond  which  the  valley  of  the  Moselle  expands. 

16  M.  Hatzenport  (steamb.  stat.)  and  Boes  (*Heidger,  mode- 
rate), two  long  contiguous  villages,  above  which  rises  an  old 
church.    The  railway-station  is  %  M.  above  Hatzenport. 

About  3  H.  inland  (diligence  from  Hatzenport  twice  daily  in  1  hr.) 
lies  Munster-Maifeld  ("Bonne),  a  small  and  ancient  -town,  supposed  to  be 
the  Pagus  Ambitivus  where  the  Emp.  Caligula  was  born,  and  from  the 
6th  cent,  onwards  the  chief  place  in  the  Megingau,  or  Meingau,  which, 
extends  hence  to  the  Rhine.  The  conspicuous  *  Church,  formerly  belonging 
to  an  abbey,  is  the  successor  of  a  basilica  of  St.  Martin,  which  existed 
here  as  early  as  638.  The  front  with  its  two  round  towers,  resembling  a 
fortress,  and  a  curious  elevated  chapel  in  the  interior,  perhaps  date  from 
the  10th  cent,  (or  the  12th?) ;  the  choir  and  choir-chapels  are  in  the  tran- 
sition-style of  1225-30 ;  while  the  nave,  in  the  developed  Gothic  style,  was 
erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century.  The  church  contains  a  statue 
of  the  Virgin  (about  1550),  a  Ciborium  of  about  1450,  and  the  tomb  of 
Kuno  von  Eltz  (d.  1536)  and  his  wife  (d.  1531).    "View  from  the  towers. 

—  From  Munster-Maifeld  to  (3  M.)  Schloss  Eltz,  see  below;  carr.  5  m. 

R.B.  jBurpcn(8teamb.stat.;  *Kaiserswerth,  plain),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Beybachthal.  Opposite  rises  the  massive  tower  of  Bischofstem, 
an  electoral  castle  erected  in  1270 ;  the  white  band  round  the  middle 
of  the  tower  is  said  to  indicate  the  height  of  the  Moselle  at  Treves. 

—  In  the  Beybachthal,  7  M.  farther  up,  is  the  ruin  of  Waldcck. 

19M.  Xoielkern  (*D«m,  moderate;  Zur  Burg  Eltz,  well  spoken 
of),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Eltz. 

In  the  narrow,  tortuous  valley  of  the  Eltz,  4  M.  above  Moselkern,  lies 
Schloss  Eltz,  which  may  also  be  reached  from  Munster-Maifeld  (see  above) 
via  Wierschem  in  1  hr.,  or  from  Hatzenport  (see  above)  on  foot  \ik  Lasserg 
in  13/4  hr.,  or  from  Mtiden  (see  below)  in  1  hr.  A  visit  to  Schloss  Eltz  also 
forms  a  pleasant  excursion  for  one  day  from  Coblenz.  —  The  Footpath 
fbom  Moselkkbn  passes  the  church  and  ascends  the  left  bank  of  the  Eltz, 
crossing  to  the  right  bank  a  little  on  this  side  of  the  second  mill.  Beyond 
the  mill  it  skirts  the  slope  of  the  hill,  traverses  meadows  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  then  ascends  into  the  wood,  through  which  it  leads  up  and 
down  hill  to  the  castle.    Milk  may  be  procured  at  the  last  mill. 

'Schloss  Eltz,  an  ancient  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Eltz  (p.  121),  is 
most  picturesquely  situated  upon  a  lofty  rock,  surrounded  by  wooded 
hills.  The  different  parts  of  the  chateau  date  from  the  12th-16th  cent., 
and  have  been  to  a  great  extent  restored.  The  rooms  are  furnished  in 
the  styles  of  different  centuries ,  and  are  adorned  with  family- portraits, 
armour,  and  weapons.  In  the  Rittersaal  (knights'  hall)  is  a  visitors* 
book,  which  contains  the  autograph  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Admission 
on  written  application,  Sundays  and  holidays  excepted.  Opposite  Schloss 
Eltz  are  the  ruins  of  Trulzeltz,  or  Bald  en  eltz ,  erected  by  Archbishop 
Baldwin  of  Treves  to  command  the  castle,  with  the  counts  of  which 
he  carried  on  a  protracted  feud.  Best  survey  of  Schloss  Eltz  and  Balden- 
eltz  from  the  cross  on  the  path  to  the  chateau  from  Wierschem,  beyond 
its  junction  with  that  from  Lasserg  and  Neuhof  (see  above). 

About  3  M.  farther  up  the  Eltzthal,  and  the  same  distance  from  Mun- 
ster-Maifeld, rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Pyrmont.  near  which 
the  Eltz  forms  a  fine  waterfall.  Beyond  the  castle  we  ascend  (good  echo) 
to  the  Pyrmonter  Hd/e,  and  then  proceed  to  the  right  to  Roes  (Hilgert), 


Coblen*  to  Treves.  CARDEN.  25.  Route.     1 73 

where  we  procure  the  key  of  the  CAM.)  aolit&rvSchtcankirche,  a  pilgrimage* 
church,  built  in  1473  and  restored' in  1880.  Thence  by  Brohl  or  Forst  to 
Garden  (see  below),lV2  hr. 

L.B.  Muden  (*H6fer),  opposite  the  entrance  of  the  Lutzer-Thal 

23  M.  Carden  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Brauer;  Weins,  at  the  station), 
below  which  is  a  cave  in  which  St.  Castor,  whose  bones  now  re- 
pose in  the  Castorkirche  at  Coblen z,  is  said  to  have  dwelt  in  the 
4th  century.  The  present  ehurch,  once  part  of  an  abbey,  was 
erected  in  1183-4247  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  one  founded  by  the 
saint.  The  choir  and  transept  are  in  a  late-Romanesque  style,  the 
nave  is  early-Gothic.  The  interior  contains  an  interesting  terra- 
cotta group  of  the  Magi  and  Saints  at  the  high-altar,  several  other 
late-Gothic  sculptures,  and  old  tombstones.  —  Higher  up>  on  the 
other  bank  of  the  river,  lies  — 

R.B.  Treis  (steamb.  stat. ;  Conzen ,  well  spoken  of),  a  village 
with  1500  inhabitants.  In  the  valley  behind  it  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Wildenburg  and  Schloss  Treis.  Tasteful  church  by  Lassaulx,  1830. 
The  (2  M.)  Treiser  Schock  commands  a  fine  view.  —  A  path  crosses 
the  hill  from  Treis  to  Bruttig  (p.  174)  in  li/8  h*. »  in  the  Flaum- 
bachthal  is  the  ruined  monastery  of  Engelport. 

2572  M.  Pommern,  with  an  old  castle,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pommer- 
baeh,  in  the  valley  of  which  are  the  ruins  of  the  nunnery  of  Rosen- 
thal, founded  in  1170. — 27  M.  Clotten  (steamb.  stat.),  with  the  castle 
of  that  name.  Clotten  is  the  depot  for  the  excellent  slate  yielded 
by  the  curious  subterranean  quarries  of  Mullenbach ,  9  M.  inland. 

30  M.  Cochem  (steamb.  stat. ;  *Union,  R.  2,  'pens.'  4-4*/2  m.  • 
Kehrer),  a  district- town  with  3000  inhab.,  and  one  of  the  prettiest 
places  on  the  Moselle  (beautiful  view  from  the  railway-station). 
The  old  castle,  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1688,  was  frequently 
occupied  by  the  Archbishops  of  Treves  in  the  14th  and  16th  cen- 
turies. It  was  restored  in  1869-77  by  Raschdortf,  with  the  aid  of 
a  view  of  the  building  taken  in  1676.  The  principal  tower  is 
adorned  with  a  huge  figure  of  St.  Christopher,  in  mosaic,  by  Sal- 
via ti.  Visitors  apply  for  admission  in  the  restaurant  at  the  en- 
trance (1-4  pers.,  1  m.).  The. finest  rooms  are  the  armoury,  the 
dining-hall ,  and  the  'Rittersaal',  the  last  decorated  with  frescoes 
by  Ewald  and  Munster.  The  Restaurant  Knuppchen ,  below  the 
castle ,  affords  a  fine  view.  The  old  Capuchin  Monastery ,  now  a 
school,  which  is  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence,  once  num- 
bered among  its  inmates  Pater  Martin  of  Cochem  (d.  1712),  a  well- 
known  German  devotional  writer.  At  the  influx  of  the  Endertsbach 
into  the  Moselle  stands  a  Monument  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870- 
71.  In  the  background,  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  about  lA/2  M-  up 
the  valley  of  the  Endertsbach,  rises  the  tower  of  the  Winneburg, 
the  most  ancient  seat  of  the  Metternich  family,  destroyed  by  the 
Frencb  in  1689.  —  On  the  right  bank,  opposite  Cochem,  lies  Cond. 

The  train  now  passes  through  the  Coehemer  or  EUerer  Berg  to 
Eller  (p.  175)  by  means  of  the  Kaiser  Wilhelm  Tunnel,  the  longest 


174    Route  25.  EDIGER.  The  Moselle  from 

tunnel  in  Germany  (22/g  M.),  the  excavation  of  which  through  the 
clay-slate  occupied  3*/2  years  (1874-77)  and  cost  4,000,000  m, ;  it 
is  vaulted  throughout. 

The  Moselle  sweeps  round  the  Ellerer  Berg  in  a  winding  curve 
of  more  than  12  M.  in  length ,  which  the  steamer  takes  2lfa  hrg. 
to  traverse  in  ascending  and  ll/%  hr.  in  descending.  The  hanks 
here  are  particularly  picturesque. 

At  Sehl,  on  the  left  hank,  1  M.  above  Cochem,  a  fine  retrospect 
is  enjoyed  of  Coch em,  its  castle,  and  the  Winneburg.  —  L.B.  Eber- 
nack,  onoe  a  priory  of  Laach  (p.  89). 

R.B.Valwig.  Picturesque  groups  of  rocks.  At  the  top,  not  visible 
from  below,  is  the  Marienkapelle,  a  favourite  resort  of  pilgrims. 

L.B.  Nieder-Ernst  and  Ober- Ernst.  Between  them  a  modern 
church  with  two  towers.  Above  the  sharp  bend  which  the  river 
makes  here  lies  — 

R.B.  Bruttig  (* Friedrichs ,  plain),  a  small  town  with  quaint 
mediaeval  houses,  formerly  under  the  joint  sway  of  the  Counts  of 
Winneburg  and  Beilstein  and  the  Electors  of  Treves ,  a  curious 
division  of  authority  which  also  existed  in  other  places  on  the  Mo- 
selle. The  church  contains  some  Gothic  sculptures  from  an  earlier 
edifice.  Bruttig  was  the  birthplace  of  the  grammarian  Petrus  Mo- 
sellanus  (d.  1524).  A  walk  on  the  right  bank  from  Bruttig  to  Sen- 
heim  is  recommended  to  lovers  of  the  picturesque. 

R.B.  Fankel,  lying  somewhat  inland. 

L.B.  EUenz  (Doren).  Fine  view  of  Beilstein  from  a  point 
near  the  mediaeval  church. 

R.B.  Beilstein  (steamb.  8 tat.),  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  rocks, 
is  overlooked  by  the  old  imperial  castle  of  the  same  name,  which 
afterwards  belonged  to  the  Electors  of  Treves,  and  then  to  the 
Counts  (now  Princes)  of  Metternich- Winneburg,  under  whose  pro- 
tection numerous  Jews  settled  here. 

L.B.  Poltersdorf.  —  R.B.  Briedern.  —  R.B.  Mesenich,  with  the 
cellarage  of  the  old  Abbey  of  Brauweiler. 

R.B.  Senheim  (steamb.  stat. ;  *  Schneiders) ,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  with  a  high-lying  church  and  an 
imposing  old  castellated  dwelling-house  (the  'Burg').  (From 
Senheim  to  Bullay  via  the  Konig,  2^2  h*s.)  —  Opposite  lies  — 

L.B.  Senhals,  and  a  little  farther  up  is  Nehren.  About  3/4  M. 
from  the  latter  is  a  hill  with  a  Roman  tomb  (the  'Heidenkeller'), 
commanding  an  admirable  view  of  Senheim.  —  The  next  places 
are  Lehmen,  with  an  old  tower,  and  — 

L.B.  Ediger  (steamb.  stat. ;  *LdW),  surrounded  with  old  for- 
tifications, and  possessing  numerous  mediaeval  buildings  and  a 
late-Gothic  church  which  contains  a  fine  late-Gothic  monstrance. 
The  Rathhaus  ia  adorned  with  quaint  reliefs.  We  now  reach  Eller 
fcomp.  p.  173). 


Coblenz  to  Treves.  ELLER.  25.  Route.     175 

Just  above  Eller ,  at  the  base  of  the  wooded  Calmond,  in  the 
pretty  valley  of  the  EUcr,  is  the  month  of  the  tunnel  mentioned 
at  p.  173. 

331/2  M.  Slier  (*Zur  Mosclbahn),  with  old  houses  of  the  feu- 
dal ages.  Above  it,  on  the  right  bank,  are  the  mine  of  Stuben 
(see  below). 

The  train  crosses  the  Moselle,  passes  through  another  tunnel 
(370  yds.  long)!,  and  skirts  the  base  of  the  precipitous  Petereberg, 
on  the  right  bank.  34  M.  Neef  (steamb.  stat.). 

On  the  summit  of  the  Petersburg  are  the  Chapel  of  St.  Peter  and  the 
burial-ground  of  Neef,  commanding  a  beautiful  *  Panorama.  (A  pictur- 
esque footpath  leads  from  the  chapel  via  the  Evlenkopf  and  Stuben  to 
Bremm  in  25  min.) 

At  the  centre  of  the  curve  which  the  river  describes  round  the 
Petersburg,  to  the  left,  are  situated  the  ruins  of  the  monastery  of 
Stuben,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  and  suppressed  in  1788.  On  the 
left  bank,  a  little  farther  on,  is  Bremm  (*Amlinger) ,  with  a  late- 
Gothic  chureh  and  mediaeval  houses,  where  the  vine  is  said  to  have 
been  cultivated  on  the  central  part  of  the  Moselle  for  the  first  time. 
The  next  place  is  Aldegund.  nearly  opposite  Neef. 

36^2  M.  Bullay  (Mn<2rfe#,  moderate;  *Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the 
right  bank,  the  station  for  Alf  and  the  baths  of  Bertrich  (see  p.  185) 
on  the  opposite  bank,  and  also  for  Zell  (p.  177).  The  road 
to  the  ferry  turns  to  the  right  at  the  station,  and  then  leads  again 
to  t£e  right  below  the  railway.  By  following  the  railway  a  little 
farther  and  crossing  the  bridge  mentioned  below  we  reach  the  foot 
of  the  Marienburg  (p.  177) ,  which  is  ascended  hence  by  a  good 
footpath  in  20  minutes. 

Opposite  Andriea1  Inn  is  a  road  leading  to  the  (V*  M.)  road  to  Merl 
which  we  follow  to  the  left  for  V*  M»  and  then  diverge  to  the  right.  After 
another  V2  M.  we  reach  a  point  where  the  path  forks,  that  to  the  left 
leading  to  Senheim  and  the  other  to  Merl.  Following  the  latter  we  reach 
(5  min.)  the  * '  Vierseenplatz'  on  the  Kdnig,  which  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  the  Marienburg  and  the  Moselle,  surpassing  that  from  the  Marien- 
burg itself.  The  descent  to  Merl  takes  1/2  hr.  (A  pleasant  walk  of  28/4-3 
hrs.  may  be  taken  to  Alf,  the  Marienburg,  Kaimt,  Zell,  Merl,  the  Konig, 
and  then  back  to  Bullay.) 

Steamboat  Journby  fbom  Alf  to  Tbbvbs  ,  see  p.  176. 

Railway.  Beyond  Bullay  the  train  crosses  the  Moselle  by  a 
huge  double  bridge  resting  on  iron  girders ,  of  which  the  higher 
level  supports  the  ordinary  roadway.  The  central  opening  has  a 
span  of  290  ft.  The  train  then  penetrates  the  Prinzenkopf  by  a 
curved  tunnel,  480  yds.  in  length,  which  emerges  upon  the  river 
above  Piinderich  (p.  177).  The  railway  is  next  carried  along  the  hill 
by  an  imposing  viaduct  with  92  arches,  each  24  ft.  wide.  3872  M. 
Reil  (p.  177).  The  train  then  quits  the  river,  and  reaches  the  Alf- 
thal  by  means  of  another  tunnel  (530  yds.)  through  the  Better  Hale. 
(The  valley  of  the  Moselle  is  regained  at  Schweich,  see  below.) 

To  the  right  in  the  Alf  thai,  half  concealed  by  the  trees,  is  seen 
the  church  of  the  old  cauonry  of  Springirsbach,  founded  in  1107, 


176    Route  25,  WITTLICH.  The  Moselle  from 

an  edifice  in  the  Italian  style  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  now  the 
parish-church  of  Bengel.  To  the  N.  is  the  Kondelwald ,  through 
which  a  picturesque  path  leads  via  the  Signal  to  Bertrich  (p.  185). 
The  train  ascends  the  valley,  passes  Bengel  (Zimmer)  and  Kinder- 
beuren  (Wirz),  and,*  beyond  a  tunnel  (635  yds.),  reaches  — 

44  M.  Uerzig  (Seller) ,  2  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name  on 
the  Moselle  (p.  179),  to  which  a  diligence  runs  twice  daily. 

The  train  now  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Lieser,  and 
reaches  — 

48  M.  Wengerohr,  the  station  for  Wittlich  (*Zum  Wolf;  *Post; 
Lostn,  unpretending),  a  district-town  with  3100  inhab.,  surround- 
ed with  walls,  lying  2y2  M.  to  the  N.W.  (omnibus  from  the  station 
in  */2  hr.,  fare  40  pf.).  The  old  chateau  ,  of  which  all  traces  have 
vanished,  was  often  occupied  by  the  Electors  of  Treves.  —  Route  to 
Berncastel,  see  p.  179. 

The  Lieser  is  crossed.  To  the  right  lie  the  hamlet  of  Burscheid 
and  the  village  of  Altrich,  to  the  left  the  Haardter  Hofe*  Beyond 
the  watershed  between  the  Lieser  and  the  Salm  we  reach  — 

53  M.  Salmrohr,  l^M.  from  which  is  the  pilgrimage  -  resort 
Eberhards- Clausen  (Klein),  an  old  abbey  with  a  fine  church ,  con- 
taining a  carved  altar  of  the  second  half  of  the  15th  century.  — 
57  M.  Hetzerath  (630  ft.  above  the  sea ;  Paltzer) ;  hence  to  Clusse- 
rath(p.  180),  l>/2hr. 

62  M.  Schweich  (steamb.  stat. ;  Joh'anntgen;  Denhard),  on  the 
Moselle.  The  train  then  passes  through  the  tunnel  of  Issel,  850  yds* 
in  length.  —  65  M»  Ehrang ,  also  a  station  on  the  Eifel  railway 
(p.  184).  The  Moselle  railway  crosses  the  river  at  Pfalzel,  and 
reaches  — 

69i/2  M.  Treves,  see  p.  161.  The  station  lies  to  the  E.  of 
the  town. 

The  Moselle  from  Alf  to  Treves. 

Alf  (*-Po8t,  with  steamboat-office;  *Bcllevue,  post  and  tele- 
graph-office, unpretending),  a  village  with  1200  inhab.,  lies  at  the 
mouth  of  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Alf,  between  the  Sollig 
and  the  Prinzenkopf.  Through  the  valley  runs  the  high-road  to 
(4^2 M.)  Bertrich  (see  p.  185).  In  the  background  rises  Burg  Arra*. 
(p.  185).  —  From  Alf  to  the  Marienburg,  see  p.  177 ;  this  excur- 
sion makes  an  agreeable  break  in  the  long  voyage  up  stream. 

Alf  lies  at  the  lower  end  of  a  circuit  of  7^2  M.  described  by 
the  Moselle  round  the  saddle  of  the  Maribnburg  (360  ft.)  and 
the  Barl,  a  tongue  of  land  only  550  yds.  in  width,  on  the  farther 
side  of  which  lies  Punderich  (see  below),  l'/2  M.  from  Alf. 
The  steamer  takes  8/4 hr.  with,  and  l*/2  hr.  against  the  stream, 
to  accomplish  this  detour ,  so  that  walkers  may  quit  the  river  at 
Alf,  ascend  to  the  (V2  nr«)  Marienburg,  and  regain  the  steamer  at 
O/4 hr.)  Punderich.   There  is  still  ample  time  to  make  the  descent 


Coblenz  to  Treves.  ZELL.  25.  Route.     177 

after  the  boat  has  come  In  sight  at  Briedel.  —  A  walk  from  Bullay 
to  the  Marienburg,  across  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  175,  takes 
20  minutes. 

The  "Marienbnrg  ('Restaurant),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  said 
to  have  once  existed  here,  or  of  the  monastery  erected  on  the  same 
spot  in  1146,  is  one  of  the  finest  points  on  the  Moselle.  The  view 
embraces  the  wooded  and  vine-clad  slopes  of  the  Moselle,  the  smil- 
ing villages  on  its  banks ,  the  summits  of  the  Hunsriick  and  the 
Elf  el,  and  two  detached  reaches  of  the  river,  resembling  lakes.  — 
Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  from  the  Marienbnrg  to  the  top  of 
the  Bar* (see  above),  and  to  the  BeilerhcUa,  which  affords  a  view  of 
the  valleys  of  the  Moselle  and  the  Alf. 

A  picturesque  route  leads  direct  from  the  Marienburg  to  the  (%  hr.) 
Alfthal  and  Bertrich  (difficult  to  find  without  a  guide).  Diverging  to  the 
right  from  the  footpath  to  Alf,  we  skirt  the  Prinaenkopf,  and  in  10  min. 
reach  the  road  from  Alf  to  Kiel  and  Bengal,  which  we  follow  to  the 
left,  through  beautiful  woods.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reach  a  path  de- 
scending to  the  right  and  soon  joining  another,  which  leads  along  the 
hill.    —  - 


Bertrich  (p.  185). 

The  distance  from  Alf  to  Treves  by  the  river  is  about  62  M. 
The  first  place  passed  by  the  steamboat  after  leaving  Alf  is  Merl 
(Grbff,  well  spoken  of),  a  small  village  on  the  right  bank,  2  M. 
above  Bullay,  with  an  old  Minorite  abbey. 

R.B.  Corray.  —  R.B.  Zell  (*Fiery  omnibus  to  meet  the  trains 
at  Bullay,  p.  176),  a  district-town  with  2300  inhabitants,  surroun- 
ded by  remnants  of  an  old  wall,  suffered  severely  from  a  conflagra- 
tion in  1848.  —  Opposite  lies  — 

L.B.  Kaimt,  whence  a  picturesque  path  leads  along  the  base 
of  the  Barl  to  (%  hr.)  the  Marienburg. 

R.B.  Briedel,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  S.  and  W.  sides 
of  the  Marienburg.  A  rough  short-cut  leads  from  Briedel  across 
the  hill  to  Enkirch  (see  below). 

.  R.B.  Pimderich  (Schneider),  a  picturesquely  situated  village. 
Opposite  the  steamboat-pier  is  the  path  mentioned  above ,  which 
ascends  to  the  Marienburg  in  %  hour.  The  mouth  of  the  tunnel 
through  the  Prinzenkopf ,  the  imposing  rail  way- viaduct,  and  the 
entrance  to  the  tunnel  by  which  the  train  quits  the  valley  of  the 
Moselle  are  also  visible  from  the  steamboat  (comp.  p.  175). 

R.B.  RciUcirch,  IV4M.  above  Punderich,  is  the  church  of  the 
village  of  Reil  (Barzem.  well  spoken  of) ,  which  lies  a  little  higher 
up  on  the  opposite  bank.  Beyond  Reil  the  left  bank  is  very  steep. 

R.B.  Burg.  —  R.B.  Enkirch  (*Imich),  a  large  village,  named 
Ankaraeha  in  the  earliest  documents ,  most  of  the  inhabitants  of 
which  are  Protestants. 

L.B.  Kovenich ,  a  small  group  of  houses ,  built  chiefly  with 
the  ruins  of  Montroyal  (see  below).  —  L.B.  Litzig. 

Baedbkxb's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  12 


178    RouU25.  TRARBACH.  The  Moselle  from 

On  the  top  of  the  lofty  rocks  to  the  left  (R.B.)  lies  Starkenburg, 
with  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  in  which,  about  the  middle  of  the  14th 
cent.,  the  Countess  Laurette  yon  Starkenhurg  detained  Archbishop 
Baldwin  of  Treves  in  captivity  for  an  attempted  infringement  of 
her  rights ,  until  he  paid  a  large  ransom  for  his  liberation.  To  the 
right  rises  the  Trabener  Berg ,  on  the  flat  top  of  which  are  traces 
of  the  fortress  of  Montroyal ,  constructed  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1686, 
but  demolished  in  1697  in  pursuance  of  the  Treaty  of  Ryswyck. 
The  hill  commands  a  beautiful  view.  —  At  the  apex  of  the  curve 
which  the  river  makes  round  this  hill  lies  « — 

L.B.  Traben  (*  Clous ,  R.  &  B.  2  m.  20,  D.  1  m.  80,  S.  1  m. 
50  pf.) ,  a  village  with  1400  inhab.,  seriously  damaged  by  fire  in 
1857  and  1878.  —  Opposite  (71/2  M.  from  Punderich)  is  — 

R.B.  Trarbaoh(*Bettevu«;  Brauneberg'),  burned  down  in  1857, 
and  since  rebuilt ,  the  busiest  and  most  prosperous  little  town  on 
the  Moselle ,  with  1600  inhab. ,  most  of  whom  are  Protestants 
(comp.  p.  170).  It  is  commanded  by  the  ruin  of  the  Grafinburg, 
erected  according  to  tradition  by  the  Countess  von  Starkenburg  with 
the  ransom  she  exacted  from  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  (see  above), 
but  more  probably  built  by  her  son,  Count  Johann  III.  (d.  1387). 
The  castle  was  dismantled  by  the  French  in  1734. 

At  Trarbach  opens  the  Kautanbachth&l,  a  valley  enclosed  by  wooded 
and  rocky  slopes,  through  which  runs  the  high-road  to  Fischbach  (p.  153). 
The  most  picturesque  part  is  above  (2Vs  H.)  the  baths  of  Kaulenbach 
(poor),  where  there  is  a  thermal  spring  (83°  Fahr.). 

A  route,  which  cannot  be  mistaken,  leads  from  Trarbach  over  the 
hill  (fine  view,  especially  of  the  old  intrenchments),  to  Berncastel  (p.  179) 
in  I74  hr.  (part  of  the  way  a  footpath  only).  The  distance  by  the  river 
between  the  two  places  is  13  M.,  traversed  by  the  steamboat  in  i*/«  hr. 
with,  in  3  hrs.  against  the  stream. 

At  Trarbach  we  reach  the  district  of  the  ( Upper  Moselle', 
which  produces  the  'Zeltinger  Schlossberg',  'Berncasteler  Doctor', 
'Brauneberger',  and  the  other  most  highly-prized  varieties  of  Mo- 
selle wine. 

L.B.  Rissbach.  —  R.B.  Wolf.  The  ruins  on  the  hill  are  those 
of  a  monastery. 

L.B,  Crbff  (*Zur  Gr'aflnburg,  unpretending),  capital  of  the  old 
'Croffer  Reich',  which  included  several  villages  in  the  valleys  of 
the  Moselle  and  the  Alf.  Croff  was  originally  a  Carlovingian  free- 
hold, but  afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Emperors.  In 
1171  Frederick  I.  gave  it  in  pledge  to  the  Counts  of  Sponheim,  and 
the  inhabitants  suffered  no  little  injury  from  the  disputes  between 
these  nobles  and  the  Electors  of  Treves,  who  acted  as  the  im- 
perial representatives. 

L.B.  Kinheim  (*Neidhofer,  good  wine ;  Zur  Schonen  Ausslcht). 

R.B.  Kindel.  —  R.B.  Losenich.  —  R.B.  Erden. 

On  the  left  bank,  below  Uerzig,  is  a  tower  built  into  the  rock, 
with  a  large  sun-dial,  formerly  a  castle,  afterwards  a  hermitage, 
known  as  the  Michaels-Lei  or  Nicolaus-Lei* 


Coblenz  to  Treves.       BERNCASTEL.  25.  Route.     179 

R.B.  TJerrig  [*Post),  a  place  of  some  importance,  which  once 
possessed  an  independent  jurisdiction.  It  is  2  M.  from  the  station 
mentioned  at  p.  176,  the  road  to  which  first  ascends  somewhat 
abruptly  and  then  descends  (diligence  in  V2  h*«  i  omnibus  50  pf.). 

R.B.  Bachtig.  —  L.B.  Machern.  —  R.B.  Zeltingen  (Scheer ; 
'Schlossberger'  wine). 

R.B.  Qraach.  Adjacent  to  the  church  is  an  old  abbey.  The 
MarUnshof,  or  Josephshof,  a  little  lower  down,  the  Himmelreiehf 
and  the  Kirchlei  all  produce  esteemed  varieties  of  wine. 

R.B.   Wehlen,  also  a  wine-growing  place. 

R.B.  Berncastel  (*Drei  Kbnige,  in  a  side-street,  R.  &  B.  2  m. 
40  pf.,  omn.  to  Uerzig  twice  daily,  l*/2m*  >  *Po$t,  moderate),  the 
capital  of  the  district,  with  2400  inhab.,  was  partly  burned  down 
in  1857.  The  ruined  electoral  castle  of  Landshut,  now  the  property 
of  Emp.  William,  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Moselle  and  of 
the  valley  of  the  Tiefenbach.  The  wine  known  as  'Berncasteler 
Doctor'  and  those  of  the  'Lei'  are  much  prized.  Diligence  twice 
daily  to  Wengerohr-Wittlich  (p.  176)  via  Lieser  or  Machern  (10  or 
9  M. ;  also  omnibus) ;  and  daily  to  (2872  M.)  Fischbach ,  on  the 
Rhine  and  Nahe  Railway  (p.  153),  in  7  hours. 

The  *  Tiefenbachthal ,  which  opens  at  Berncastel  and  is  ascended  by 
the  road  to  the  Hunsriick,  resembles  the  Ahrthal  (p.  81)  in  the  grandeur 
of  its  rocky  scenery.  About  1  M.  above  Berncastel  are  a  chapel  and  a 
waterfall,  where  a  lateral  valley  diverges  to  the  right,  through  which  we 
reach  (8/4  hr.)  Monzelfeld  (fine  view).  Hence  to  Veldenz  (see  below),  1  hour. 

L.B.  Cues  was  the  birthplace  of  the  learned  Cardinal  Nicolaus 
Gusanus  (d.  1464),  who  founded  a  hospital  here  and  bequeathed 
to  it  his  library,  containing  some  valuable  MSS.,  a  number  of 
Codices,  and  rare  old  impressions.  The  hospital  owns  several  of 
the  vineyards  in, the  neighbourhood. 

R.B.  Andel,  the  first  place  in  the  old  Protestant  county  of 
Veldenz,  which  was  finally  incorporated  with  the  Palatinate. 

L.B.  Lieser  (Jung),  a  well-built  village  at  the  mouth  of  the 
brook  of  that  name. 

R.B.  Muhlheim  (*Karsch),  a  village  of  some  Importance  at  the 
entrance  to  the  picturesque  Veldenz  Valley,  in  which  lie  the  vil- 
lages of  Veldenz  (Bottler)  and  Thai  Veldenz,  and  the  ruins  of  Burg 
Veldenz  (fine  view). 

R.B.  Dusemond.  —  R.B.  Neu-Filzen.  —  R.B.  Filzen. 

L.B.  The  Brauneberg,  famous  for  its  wine.  At  the  upper  end  of 
the  Brauneberg,  on  the  hill,  lies  Monzel,  below  which,  on  a  small 
headland,  is  Kesten  (*Licht,  unpretending),  whence  a  footpath 
leads  in  lVihr.  to  Pisport  (see  below).  The  hills  of  Ohligsberg  and 
Neuberg,  on  the  other  bank,  also  produce  excellent  wine. 

R.B.   Winterich,  where  the  hills  approach  close  to  the  river. 

L.B.  Minheim,  at  the  apex  of  a  sharp  curve  in  the  river. 

R.B.  Reimport  (*Fuchs,  below  the  ferry).  —  R.B.  Miistert.  A 
little  inland  lies  Niederemmel. 

12* 


180    Route  25.  NEUMAGEN. 

L.B.  Piiport  (*Hayn),  perhaps  'JPfoont*  Portus\  lias  been  for 
centuries  famous  for  its  wine.  A  road  leads  hence  via  Clausen 
to  (6V2  M.)  Salmrohr  (p.  176),  on  the  Moselle  railway. 

Near  the  village  of  Ferrcs,  the  Boveriis  of  ancient  charters, 
which  lies  about  3/4^>  above  Pisport  on  the  same  bank,  traces  have 
been  discovered  of  an  old  Roman  road,  leading  to  Clausen. 

A  little  higher  up  ,  the  Thron,  a  rapid  stream  abounding  in  fish, 
flows  into  the  Moselle  on  the  left.  The  village  of  Thron  (Feilen),  in  its 
narrow  valley,  is  noted  for  its  wine  ('Hofberger')*  A  provoatry  of  the 
abbey  of  Tholei,  which  lay  here,  was  presented  by  Napoleon  to  Marshal 
Bertier,  Prince  of  Wagram.  At  the  head  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruined 
castle  of  Troneck,  near  which  is  the  'Singende  ThaT. 

R.B.  Keumagen  (Brand ;  Hoffmann) ,  the  Roman  Noviomagus, 
where  Constantino  had  a  castle,  and  well-known  as  a  prolific  source 
of  Roman  antiquities.  The  church,  erected  in  1190,  was  probably 
built  with  the  stones  of  the  castle.  Opposite  is  a  foot-path  leading 
over  the  hill  to  (1  hr.)  Clusserath. 

Above  Neumagen  the  Moselle  makes  a  wide  curve.  Here ,  to 
the  right,  lies  Trittenheim,  the  birthplace  of  Johann  Trithemius, 
an  eminent  historian,  and  Abbot  of  Sponheim  (d.  1516),  who 
persuaded  the  Elector  Joachim  of  Brandenburg  to  found  the  uni- 
versity of  Frankfort  on  the  Oder. 

R.B.  Leiwen  (*Becker).  —  R.B.  Kowcrich.  —  L.B.  Clusserath 
(Post),  at  the  mouth  of  the  8alm,  7i/2M.  from  Hetzerath  (p.  176). 

R.B.  Thornieh.  —  R.B.  Detzem  ('ad  decimum',  i.e.  the  tenth 
Roman  milestone  from  Treves).   Opposite,  — 

L.B.  Emch.  —L.B.  Schlcich.  —  L.B.  Polich.  —  L.B.  Mehrinq, 
an  old  place.  —  L.B.  Lbrsch.  —  L.B.  Longen. 

A  little  Inland  on  the  right  bank,  between  the  two  last-named 
villages,  on  the  side  of  the  hill ,  lies  Biol ,  the  Rigodulum  of 
Tacitus ,  where  the  Roman  general  Cerealis  conquered  the  rebel- 
lious Treveri,  and  took  their  leader  Valentinns  prisoner. 

R.B.  Longwich  (*Sonntag,  moderate).  —  R.B.  Kirsch  ,  nearly 
opposite  Schweich  (p.  176). 

Pedestrians  should  quit  the  river  at  Longwich  and  walk  to  (9  M.) 
Treves  via  Mertertdorf  and  the  fortified  village  of  Qrilnhaut  (good  wine) 
in  the  Ruwerthal.  Indeed  on  the  upper  Moselle  the  paths  along  the  hills, 
affording  numerous  views,  are  generally  preferable  to  those  on  the  banks 
of  the  river. 

L.B.  Between  Issel  and  Ehrang  (p.  176)  is  the  Quint  ('ad  quin- 
tum',  i.e.  5  M.  from  Treves). 

R.B.  Ruwer ;  in  the  valley  of  the  brook  of  that  name  lie  EittU- 
bach  and  Casel. 

L.B.  Pfalzel  (Palatiolum),  where  Adela,  daughter  of  King 
Dagobert,  founded  a  nunnery  in  655. 

Treves,  see  p.  161. 


181 
26.  From  Cologne  to  Trfcves.  The  Volcanic  Eifel. 

113  M.  Railway  in  4»/4-5>A  hrs.  (fares  14  m.  60,  11  m.,  7  m.  30  pf.). 

Cologne ,  see  p.  22.  Aft  far  as  (6*/2  M.)  Kalseheuren  the  line 
follows  the  direction  of  the  Left  Rhenish  Railway  (R.  10);  it  then 
turns  to  the  right,  and  intersects  the  Vorgebirge  (p.  13).  10  M. 
Kierberg;  133/4  M.  Liblar;  17i/2  M.  Weilcrswist,  the  station  for 
Vernich;  21  M.  Derkum. 

FaoM  DtiBBN  (p.  12)  to  Euskibchbn,  18VsM..  railway  in  8/4  hr.  (fares  2  m. 
10,  1  m.  60.  1  m.  10  pf.).  —  8  M.  VettweU.  12Va  M.  ZUlpich,  an  ancient 
town,  the  Roman  Tolbiacum,  where  in  496  the  Alemanni  were  defeated  by 
the  Franks,  in  consequence  of  which  victory  Clovis  became  a  convert  to 
Christianity.  The  handsome  Romanesque  church  of  St.  Peter,  of  the  11th 
and  12th  cent.,  contains  carved  Gothic  altars  of  the  16th  century.  The  four 
gates  of  the  old  fortifications  of  the  town,  dating  from  the  15th  cent.,  are 
also  worthy  of  notice.    14!/t  M.  DUrtcheten. 

241/2  M.  Euakirchen  (Brinkmann),  a  busy  little  town  of  5500 
inhab.,  with  important  cloth-factdnes ,  lies  on  the  Erfi.  It  is  the 
junction  of  the  Cologne  line  with  branches  to  Dttren  (see  above)  and 
Bonn. 

From  Euskirchen  diligence  twice  daily  in  l>/t  hr.  to  MUntterexfel ,  a 
small  town  on  the  Erft.  with  a  late-Romanesque  church  of  the  12th  cent., 
containing  several  good  tombstones  of  the  16th  cent,  and  a  winged  altar- 
piece  of  the  school  of  Lucas  van  Leyden. 

Fbom  Euskikchbn  to  Bonn,  21  M.,  railway  in  17a  hr.  (fares  2  m.  80, 
2  m.  10,  1  m.  40  pf.).  -  The  line  crosses  the  Erft.  2  M.  Cuchenheim;  41/3  M. 
Odendorf.  To  the  right  the  extensive  Flamersheim  woods.  Vfa  M.  Rhein- 
baeh.  situated  in  a  fertile  plain. 

iO'/t  M.  Xeokenheim  (Eiche;  UTierdorf),  a  village  with  1600  inhab., 
and  once  fortified.  Opposite  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Tomburg,  which 
perhaps  was  originally  a  Roman  watch-tower  *  it  afterwards  passed  suc- 
cessively into  the  hands  of  the  Counts  Palatine  (960-1156) ,  the  Counts  of 
Tomburg,  the  Barons  Dalwigk,  and  the  Barons  Yincke.  —  From  Mecken- 
heim  a  road  leads  by  Qeltdorf  to  (11  M.)  AU«nahr(p.  84);  the  Kalenborner 
ffdhe,  about  6  M.  from  Meckenheim ,  is  a  fine  point  of  view.  Another 
charming  view  is  enjoyed  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ahrthal. 

Beyond  (13  M.)  Kotten/orst  the  train  traverses  part  of  the  forest  of 
that  name  and  descends  to  (17  M.)  Duitdorf.  —  21  M.  Bonn,  see  p.  71. 

291/2  M.  Satzvey;  33  M.  Mechernich,  to  the  left  of  which  are 
extensive  lead-mines  and  foundries.  At  (3972  M0  Call  (Nasschen; 
Reinhard),  a  village  with  some  disused  forges,  the  line  reaches  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Urft,  bounded  by  sandstone  rocks,  and  ascends 
the  course  of  the  stream. 

In  the  picturesque  Olefthal,  3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Call,  lies  SchUiden, 
with  two  ancient  churches  and, a  ruined  castle.  About  5  M.  higher  up  the 
valley  are  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Retyerscheid,  which  is  men- 
tioned in  a  document  of  975. 

42M.  Vrft  (Schneider).  The  old  abbey  of  8Uinfdd ,  founded 
in  the  10th  cent,  and  now  a  reformatory,  lies  1  M.  to  the  S.W.,  but 
is  not  visible  from  the  train ;  the  large  and  well-preserved  church 
contains  an  altar-piece  of  1530  and  a  marble  monument  of  1732. 
—  45  M.  NttUrtheim,  on  the  Urft. 

491/2  M.  Blankenkeim,  which  lies  2V2M.  from  the  station  (dili- 
gence four  times  daily;  Schwartz's  Inn),  is  situated  in  a  narrow 
valley  to  the  E.,  with  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  ancestral  castle 


182    Route  26.  HILLESHEIM.  From  Cologne 

of  the  knights  of  Blankenheim ,  built  in  the  12th  century.  The 
parish  church  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  Counts  of  Mander- 
scheid,  to  whom  the  castle  afterwards  belonged.  The  Ahr  (p.  84) 
rises  at  Blankenheim  ,  where  its  sources  are  enclosed  by  a  wall.  — 
From  Blankenheim  a  diligence  runs  once  daily  to  (18J/2  M.)  Adenau 
(p.  85). 

The  line  continues  to  ascend,  until  at  (52  M.)  Schmidtheim,  with 
an  old  castle,  it  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Urft  and  the 
beautiful  *  Valley  of  the  Kyll,  which  it  enters  at  (57^2  M.)  Junke- 
rath  (1450  ft.),  the  station  for  Stadtkyll  (Post),  situated  2  M.  higher 
up  (diligence  four  times  daily).  Jiinkerath,  which  possesses  a  large 
foundry  and  an  extensive  ruined  castle ,  probably  occupies  the  site 
of  the  Roman  station  Icorigium*  The  train  now  descends  the  valley, 
passing  over  forty -four  bridges  and  viaducts,  and  through  ten 
tunnels. 

63  M.  Hillesheim  (1433  ft. ;  *Schmit%;  *Kloep),  a  small  town 
with  900  inhab.,  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station.  The  (1  M.)  Kyller 
Hohe  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  Hillesheim  station  down  the 
Kyllthal  to  the  (I1/*  hr.)  CatseVrurg.  After  passing  (20  min.)  Niedorbettingen 
and  (72  hr.)  Bewingen  we  take  the  footpath  to  the  left  beyond  the  points- 
man's cottage,  and  ascend  to  the  (V2  hr.)  Casselbnrg  (see  below). 

Hillesheim  is  about  17  M.  from  Adenau,  to  which  a  good  road  leads 
(see  Hap).  On  this  road,  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Hillesheim,  lies  terpen,  with 
a  beautiful  ruined  castle.  Here  we  may  quit  the  road  for  a  walk  to 
(l1/*  M.  to  the  E.)  Niederehe  (Schmitz,  tolerable),  a  village  in  a  basin  of 
shell-limestone,  with  an  old  abbey-church  containing  the  tombs  of  Philip, 
Count  of  the  Mark,  and  his  wife.  A  footpath  ascends  hence,  following  the 
course  of  the  Ahbach,  to  the  Nohner  MUhle,  the  ruin  of  Dreimiihlen  with  a 
waterfall  (fossils),  and  AhUtte  (*Fasen,  by  the  bridge).  A  Roman  villa 
was  discovered  in  1878  at  Leudersdorf,  l'/4  M.  to  the  W.  of  Ahutte.  From 
Ahutte  we  continue  to  follow  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Ahbach  to  (Va  hr.) 
the  picturesque  ruin  of  Neu-Blankenhain.  Thence  we  ascend  a  footpath 
to  the  (V2  hr. ;  to  the  W.)  road  coming  from  the  Nohn,  which  we  may 
follow  to  KirmuUcheid,  and  then  proceed  to  the  right  by  Wirft  and  Honne- 
rath  to  Adenau  (p.  85).  Or  we  may  choose  the  route  by  Barweiler  (Ser- 
vatius),  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  Wiesenscheid,  and  Nilrburg. 

From  Hillesheim  to  Daun,  12'/2  M.  The  road  leads  by  (41/*  M.)  Ober- 
ehe  and  (272  M.)  Dreis ,  between  which  places ,  to  the  right  of  the  road, 
lies  the  Dreiser  Weiher,  a  marshy  meadow  remarkable  for  its  strong  car- 
bonic acid  exhalations.  On  the  E.  and  S.  sides  of  it  are  frequently  found 
nodules  of  olivine,  which  have  been  thrown  up  by  volcanic  agency.  The 
next  village  is  (1  M.)  Doekweiler ,  to  the  S.  of  which  rises  the  "Erensberg 
(2267  ft.) ,  an  extinct  crater ,  from  which  a  thick  stream  of  basaltic  lava, 
beginning  about  200  ft.  below  the  summit,  descends  towards  the  N.  to  Doek- 
weiler and  Dreis.  The  ascent  of  this  hill  is  also  interesting  on  account  of 
the  view  it  commands  and  the  extensive  millstone-quarries  situated  on 
it.  The  path  diverges  from  the  road  at  the  point  where  it  divides  beyond 
Doekweiler.  The  Daun  and  Gerolstein  road  passes  the  base  of  the  Erens- 
berg  on  the  S.  side.    Daun,  see  p.  187. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  line  begins  below  Hillesheim. 
The  valley,  which  is  exceedingly  fertile  and  well  cultivated,  is  en- 
closed by  precipitous  and  partially  wooded  limestone  rocks  of  most 
picturesque  forms.  To  the  right  of  the  village  of  Pelm  (Zur  Cassel- 
burg ,  by  the  bridge),  which  the  train  passes ,  rises  a  wooded  hill 


to  Trivet.  GEROLSTEIN.  26.  Route.     183 

(1560  ft.)  crowned  with  the  ruined  *Casaelburg  (ascent  20  min.), 
once  the  ancestral  castle  of  the  knights  of  Gastelberg.  The  principal 
tower,  164  ft.  in  height,  is  easily  ascended,  and  commands  a  splendid 
view  of  the  Kyllthal  and  the  Eifel.  Key  at  the  forester's  house  (re- 
freshments). 

The  Papenkaul  (see  below)  may  be  reached  from  the  forester's  house 
in  y»  hr.;  near  it  is  a  cavern  in  which  some  colossal  fossilised  bones 
were  lately  .  found.  From  the  Papenkaul  we  descend  to  Gerolstein  in 
V4  br.,  passing  the  lime-tree  mentioned  below. 

The  Ics  Cavern  of  Roth,  3  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Casselburg,  near  the 
village  of  Roth,  is  an  old  pit,  on  a  volcanic  hill,  about  16ft.  deep,  in 
which  ice  is  found  in  summer. 

The  valley  of  Qees,  to  the  S.E.  of  Pelin ,  contains  an  abundance  of 
fossils. 

69 M.  Geroltt6in(1300ft. ;  Rail,  Rest;  *Post;  Heck,  well  spoken 
of;  also  private  lodgings),  the  finest  point  in  the  Kyllthal,  and  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  places  in  the  Eifel ,  is  confined  within  nar- 
row limits  by  the  rocks  and  the  river ,  and  commanded  by  a  ruined 
castle,  built  by  Gerhard  von  Blankenheim  in  1115,  and  afterwards 
in  the  possession  of  the  Counts  of  Manderscheid.  A  fine  view  of 
Gerolstein  is  obtained  from  a  large  lime-tree  on  the  road  leading  to 
the  N.  from  the  station.  On  the  top  of  the  limestone  rocks  opposite 
the  village  is  the  Papenkaul,  a  small  extinct  crater,  from  which  a 
narrow  stream  of  lava  descends  by  a  grassy  valley  on  the  N.  side 
into  the  Kyllthal.  The  entire  neighbourhood  of  Gerolstein  is  very 
interesting  in  a  geological  point  of  view.  Besides  the  volcanic  for- 
mations ,  aqueous  limestone ,  containing  innumerable  fossil  shells, 
also  occurs.  The  lateral  valley  which  runs  towards  the  8.  from  Pelm 
to  Gees  abounds  in  these  fossils.  From  Gerolstein  to  the  Cassel- 
burg (see  above)  a  walk  of  1  hr.  Diligence  from  Gerolstein  to 
(131/2  M.)  Dann  (p.  187)  twice  daily  in  23/4  hrs.  (fare  2  m.  20  pf. ; 
carr.  12  m.). 

From  Gerolstein  to  Pkum,  12  M.,  diligence  twice  daily  in  2l/a  hrs. 
Frttm  (*Goldener  Stem,  or  Post),  a  district  -  town  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
Schneifel  (p.  186),  situated  on  the  brook  of  that  name,  was  anciently  the 
seat  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  by  .the  Merovingians  in  720,  and 
once  in  the  enjoyment  of  political  independence,  but  suppressed  by  the 
French  in  1801.  The  present  buildings,  dating  from  1756,  are  occupied 
by  the  local  authorities.  The  church,  with  its  two  towers,  has  been  fre- 
quently altered. 

Beyond  Gerolstein  the  train  passes  Lissingen,  with  two  castles, 
adjoining  each  other  and  still  occupied.  On  the  right  bank  of  the 
Kyll,  about  IV2  M.  above  (74  M.)  Birreaborn,  is  situated  the  Mineral 
Spring  of  Birresborn,  the  strongest  and  best-known  of  the  chalybeate 
springs  of  the  Eifel.  The  gaseous  cavity  or  'mofette*,  called  the 
Brudeldreis,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kyll,  is  now  covered  in,  and 
the  gas  is  conveyed  down  the  hill  in  pipes. 

76  y2  M.  Murlenbach  (*Krumpten),  a  small  village  with  the  ruins 
of  a  castle  founded  by  the  Merovingians,  and  re-erected  in  the  17th 
century.  —  78  M.  Densborn,  with  another  ruined  castle.  The  lime- 
stone-rocks are  now  succeeded  by  variegated  sandstone.    The  line 


184    Route  26.  BITBURG. 

traverses  a  pleasant  wooded  tract,  and  passes  the  villages  of  Zend- 
acheid  and  JJtsch  and  the  suppressed  Cistercian  monastery  of  St.  Tho- 
mas ,  now  employed  as  a  house  of  correction  for  Roman  Catholic 
priests.  The  Gothic  church  was  completed  in  1225.  Near  the  village 
of  Neidenbach,  372  M.  to  the  W.,  are  extensive  remains  of  the  em- 
bankment of  an  old  Roman  road. 

84f/2  M.  Kyllburg  (*Schultc,  moderate;  Leinen;  Schweitzer; 
Marquef),  another  very  picturesque  place,  with  1000  inhab.,  lies 
on  an  eminence  partially  enclosed  by  the  Kyll ,  and  is  commanded 
by  an  old  watch-tower  (restored  in  1881)  and  the  handsome  Gothic 
Church  of  St.  Thomas,  which  contains  some  stained  glass  of  1534, 
from  designs  after  Durer.  The  fine  adjacent  cloisters  and  the  sup- 
pressed abbey-buildings  are  of  later  date  than  the  church.  On  a 
height  on  the  Kyll,  U/2  M.  below  Kyllburg,  rises  the  chateau  of 
Malberg,  incorporated  with  an  old  castle  and  commanding  a  fine 
view.  —  Diligence  to  Manderscheid,  see  p.  189. 

The  brook  now  describes  a  circuit,  which  the  railway  cuts  off  by 
means  of  the  Wilseck  Tunnel,  l^M.  in  length.  88  M.  Erdorf 
(Weinert)  is  the  station  for  Bitburg,  a  small  town  on  the  hill  to 
the  S.W.,  4  M.  distant  (diligence  four  times  daily). 

Bitburg  ("*  Well)  was  the  Bedae  Vicus  of  the  Romans,  and  a  station  on 
their  road  from  Treves  to  Cologne ,  several  of  the  milestones  of  which 
have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  Kobenhof,  or  house  of  the 
Kob  von  Biidingen  family,  is  a  curious  building  of  1576.  The  castle  to 
the  N.  of  the  town ,  on  the  road  to  Prnm ,  was  the  ancient  residence  of 
the  knights  of  Bitburg.  At  the  Odrang,  near  Flicstem ,  2V2  H.  farther  K. 
(reached  from  Erdorf  in  I1/2  hr.)  there  are  several  fine  Roman  mosaic 
pavements  (inferior,  however,  to  that  at  Kennig,  p.  160)  and  other  anti- 
quities. 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  picturesque  wooded  *  Valley  of 
the  Kyll,  bounded  by  sandstone-rocks.  The  brook  now  becomes  na- 
vigable for  rafts.  Tunnels  and  bridges  follow  each  other  in  rapid 
succession,  and  numerous  mills  are  passed.  At  Huttingen  is  a  pic- 
turesque waterfall.  93  M.  Pfulippsheim,  the  station  for  (li/2M.)  Du- 
deldorf,  with  an  old  castle.  95  M.  Speicher ;  the  village  lies  on  the 
hill,  IV2M.  to  theE.  97  M.  Auw,  with  a  pilgrimage-church,  erect- 
ed in  1708-46  in  memory  of  three  maidens,  who  here  miraculously 
escaped  their  pursuers  on  an  ass.  100  M.  Cordel,  with  valuable 
quarries;  the  ruined  castle  of  Ramstein,  erected  in  the  14th cent.,  is 
situated  at  the  station,  which  is  a  considerable  way  from  the  village. 
108  M.  Ehrang,  the  last  station,  lies  at  the  junction  of  the  Kyllthal 
with  the  valley  of  the  Moselle ,  and  is  connected  by  a  line  of  rails 
with  the  Quint  (p.  180).  To  the  left,  before  Treves  is  reached,  a 
fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  town  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  station 
is  on  the  left  bank,  near  the  bridge.    113  M.  Treves,  see  p.  161. 


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THE  VOLCANIC  EIFEL.      26.  Route.     185 

The  Volcanic  Eifel. 

From  the  Eifel  Railway.  With  the  aid  of  the  railway  described  in 
this  route  the  finest  points  in  this  very  interesting  district  may  be  most 
conveniently  visited  as  follows:  1st  Day.  Railway  to  Billetheim  or  Oerol- 
stein  (p.  183);  walk  by  Bewingen  or  Pelm  to  the  Caetelburg  in  l'/2  hr. 
(p.  183) ;  walk  or  drive  to  Daun,  10  M. ;  ascend  the  Erentberg  and  the 
Scharteberg  by  the  way,  if  time  permit.  —  2nd  Day.  Walk  by  Gemilnden, 
the  Banner  Maare,  and  the  M&useberg  to  Oillen/eld ,  in  21/*  hrs.  ;  to  the 
Pulvermaar  and  back,  s/<  hr.;  Strohn,  Sprint,  ly4  hr. ;  by  the  Belvedere  to 
Manderacheid,  21/*  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  Walk  over  the  Mosenberg  to  Bettenfeld, 
ll/a  hr. ;  to  Eisenechmitt.  ly»  hr. ;  walk  or  drive  to  Himmeroth,  Grosslitgen, 
and  (9  H.)  Wittlich  (p.  176),  which  is  2  H.  from  the  station  of  that  name 
on  the  Moselle  railway.  —  Travellers  who  have  not  visited  Kyllburg 
should  proceed  thither  from  Eisenschmitt. 

Feom  the  Moselle  Railway  the  Eifel  is  best  explored  as  follows : 
1st  Day.  From  Bullay  to  the  Marienburg  (p.  177),  20  roin. ;  Alf  (p.  176), 
V«  hr. ;  Bertrich,  2  hrs. ;  environs  of  Bertrich.  —  2nd  Day.  To  Hontheim, 
*/*  hr.  ;  StrotzbUtch,  l»/2  hr. ;  walk  to  Strohn,  and  visit  to  environs,  l1/*  hr. ; 
Gillevfeld,  »/2  hr.;  by  Eckfeld  and  the  Belvedere  to  Manderschtid ,  2  hrs.; 
the  ascent  of  the  Mosenberg  may  be  added.  —  3rd  Day.  Walk  by  Bleck- 
hatuen  and  (6  M.)  Uedersdorf  (route  as  far  as  this  uninteresting)  to  Daun, 
4  hrs. ;  afternoon ,  environs  of  Daun.  —  4th  Day.  By  the  Erentberg  or 
the  Scharteberg  to  Pelm,  4  hrs.;  by  the  Casselburg  to  Qerolttein,  l»/4  hr. 
—  5th  Day.    To  Kyllburg,  where  the  railway  is  reached. 

The  Eifel  is  a  mountainous  district  situated  between  the  Moselle ,  the 
Rhine ,  and  the  Roer ,  about  45  M.  in  length,  and  24  M.  in  breadth.  The 
E.  part  is  called  the  Hohe  Eifel,  near  Adenau  and  Kellberg,  and  com- 
prises  the  Hohe  Acht  (2410  ft. ;  p.  85)  .the  Niirburg  (2181  ft. ;  p.  85) ,  the 
Aremberg  (p.  85),  and  the  Erensberg  (2267  ft.;  p.  182);  the  W.  part  is  the 
Schneifel  (i.e.  Schnee-Eifel),  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Priim  (p.  183) ;  and 
the  S.  part  is  the  Vorder  -  Eifel ,  or  Volcanic  Eifel ,  extending  as  far  as 
the  Rhine  (Laacher  See,  p.  88),  and  embracing  Gerolstein,  Daun,  Mander- 
scheid  (p.  189),  and  Bertrich  (see  below).  The  district,  though  somewhat 
bleak  and  barren,  is  very  picturesque  at  places,  especially  in  the  Vorder- 
Eifel.  The  latter  is  also  very  interesting  in  a  geological  point  of  view 
owing  to  the  numerous  traces  it  bears  of  former  volcanic  agency,  such 
as  the  streams  of  lava,  slag-hills,  'Maare',  or  extinct  craters  filled  with  wa- 
ter, Ac.  —  The  Inn*  are  unpretending,  but  as  a  rule  comfortable  and 
moderate  (R.,  S.,  &  B.  about  3m.). 

Fhom  Alp  (p.  176)  to  Bbrtrioh,  41/2  M.,  omnibus  several 
times  daily  (fare  1  m. ;  one-horse  carr.  5,  two-horse  from  8  m.,  fee 
extra).  The  road  leads  at  first  through  the  romantic  Valley  of  the 
Alf,  and  then  at  (IV2  M.)  a  disused  iron  rolling-mill,  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Uesbach.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  lie  the  ruins  of  Burg 
Arras,  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Archbishop  of  Treves  in  938 
for  a  charcoal-burner  and  his  two  sons,  who  had  distinguished  them- 
selves by  their  courage  in  the  destruction  of  a  band  of  Hungarians. 

Bertrich  (525  ft. ;  *Ptts,  next  door  to  the  Curhaus,  D.  2l/2m. ; 
*Adler,  D.  2  m. ;  *KUrings,  D.  2  m. ;  ^Schneiders,  D.  i  m.  20  pf.), 
a  watering-place ,  delightfully  situated  in  a  secluded  valley,  and 
visited  annually  by  1000  patients ,  may  be  described  in  respect  to 
the  efficacy  of  its  waters  (especially  fox  cases  of  gout,  rheumatism, 
and  nervous,  liver,  and  bowel-complaints)  as  a  kind  of  modified 
Carlsbad.  The  warm^  springs  (90°  Fahr.)  contain  Glauber's  salt. 
Pleasant  walks  have  been  laid  out  in  all  directions.  On  the  £0- 
merketiel)  an  eminence  where  the  Roman  relics  now  in  the  garden 


186     Route  26.  WARTESBERG.  Eifel. 

of  the  bath-establishment  were  found ,  stands  a  small  Protestant 
chapel. 

About  V2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Bertrich  the  road  crosses  the  Uesbach 
to  the  Elftnmufde.  Ascending  to  the  left  before  reaching  the  mill, 
and  after  20  paces  following  the  lower  path  to  the  right ,  we  reach 
the  *Kaskeller  ('cheese-cellar'),  a  grotto  composed  of  basaltic  col- 
umns, each  formed  of  8  or  9  spheroids,  resembling  cheeses.  Near 
it  is  a  scanty  Waterfall,  16  ft.  in  height.  A  basaltic  stream  of  lava 
is  visible  in  several  places  in  the  bed  of  the  Uesbach. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  from  the  Kaskeller  to  the  (1  hr.)  Nan- 
tertburg;  thence  to  the  (!>/«  hr.)  *B6delheok  (1584  f t.  \  refreshments  at  the 
adjacent  forester's),  which  commands  an  extensive  panorama;  and  lastly 
to  the  (7«hr.)  *Reinhardalust,  on  the  path  leading  from  the  Bddelheck  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Uesbach  (see  above). 

If  we  follow  the  new  road  to  Lutzerath  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Uesbach 
as  far  as  the  kilometre-stone  9.29,  in  a  part  of  the  valley  called  the  Matich- 
wiese,  diverge  here  to  the  right  by  the  old  road,  and  pass  to  the  left  of 
the  Maischquelle ,  we  reach  (in  ty4  br.  Jfroin  the  Grotto)  the  *Falkenlei 
(1316  ft.),  a  semi-conical  hill,  the  S.  side  of  which  is  a  precipice  170  ft. 
in  height,  exhibiting  the  geological  formation  of  the  interior.  At  the 
bottom  lie  solid  masses  of  lava ;  at  the  top  scoriss  and  slag.  Numerous 
caves  and  clefts  have  been  formed  in  the  rock,  in  which  the  temperature 
seldom  exceeds  48°  Fahr.  The  rocks  are  thickly  covered  with  yellowish 
red  moss  and  lichens.  The  summit  affords  an  extensive  view  of  the  vol- 
canic peaks  of  the  Eifel \  the  highest  are  the  Hohe  Acht  (p.  85),  the  Niir- 
burg  (p.  85),  with  a  tower  on  its  summit,  and  the  Hohe  Kelberg;  to  the 
N.W.  the  prospect  is  circumscribed  by  the  long  isolated  ridge  of  the 
Mosenberg  (p.  190),  a  little  to  the  left  of  which  rises  the  Nerother  Kopf 
with  its  ruin  (p.  187).  A  very  steep  path  descends  to  the  high-road  on 
the  side  of  the  hill  opposite  to  that  by  which  we  ascended.  Following 
the  road  to  the  right,  we  reach  (V*  M.)  Kennfus  and  (3  M.)  Lutzerath 
(1295  ft.),  a  post-station  on  the  Coblenz  and  Treves  road.  Diligence  twice 
daily  between  Lutzerath  and  Alf  (12  M.),  via  Bertrich.  Pleasant  walk  from 
the  Kaskeller  to  the  Endersburg,  1  hour. 

A  road  passing  the  Kaskeller  (see  above)  leads  to  the  W.  to 
(2  M.)  Hontheim  (Zum  Bad  Bertrich),  from  which  we  proceed  by 
footpaths  to  (3V<2  M.)  Schutzalf,  a  hamlet  in  the  valley  of  the  Alf- 
bach.  We  then  ascend  the  picturesque  valley,  which  here  forms 
a  deep  cutting  through  the  lava  rocks  and  is  sometimes  called  the 
'Strohn  Switzerland',  to  Sprink  and  (40  min.)  Strohn.  (Another 
path  from  Hontheim  to  Strohn  leads  by  Sttotzbuaeh  and  Trautzberg 
in  2  hrs.)  On  the  E.  side  of  the  Alfthal ,  between  Sprink  and 
Strohn,  rises  the  Wartesberg  (1597  ft.),  one  of  the  largest  slag- 
hills  of  the  Eifel,  and  probably  an  extinct  crater,  although  not  now 
distinguishable  as  such.  From  Strohn  we  ascend  the  valley  to 
(V2  hr.)  Qillenfeld  (p.  189). 


From  Gbholstbin  to  Daun  ,  13i/2  M.  The  road  traverses  a 
district  of  great  geological  interest,  about  60  sq.  M.  in  area,  ex- 
tending N.W.  as  far  as  Hillesheim  (p.  182)  and  Stefflen,  and  from 
the  former  towards  the  S.,  down  the  Kyllthal  to  Birresborn  (p.  183), 
to  the  E.  to  Daun  (p.  187),  and  again  to  the  N.  to  Dockweiler  and 
Dreis  (p.  182).    Proofs  of  volcanic  action ,  which  are  more  name- 


XtyW.  DAUN.  26.  Routt.     187 

ions  here  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  Eifel ,  are  afforded  by  pre- 
served craters ,  or  portions  of  craters ,  overflowed  by  masses  of  slag 
and  streams  of  lava  overlying  the  grauwacke  and  limestone-rocks, 
and  by  conical  basaltic  formations  which  protrude  from  the  surround- 
ing rocks.  The  scenery  of  the  lower  part  only  of  the  valley  of  the 
Kyll  is  picturesque,  but  this  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Pelm  and  the  Casselburg,  see  p.  182.  The  old  road  (see  below) 
leaves  the  Kyllthal  here.  The  new  road  follows  it  a  little  farther, 
and  then  gradually  ascends ,  passing  near  Rockeskyll ,  and  by  the 
villages  of  Essingen,  Hohenfels,  which  lies  in  the  basin  of  a  crater 
surrounded  by  precipitous  walls  of  slag,  and  Betteldorf  to  Dockweiler 
(8  M.  from  Gerolstein),  where  it  joins  the  road  coming  fromHilles- 
heim  (6  M. ;  comp.  p.  182). 

The  old  road,  rougher,  but  more  interesting  than  the  new, 
ascends  to  the  right  from  Pelm,  and  reaches  its  highest  point 
at  Kirchwciler,  whence  the  Erensberg  to  the  N.  (p.  182)  and  the 
Scharteberg  (2158ft.)  to  the  S.,  both  extinct  craters,  the  latter 
most  distinctly  recognisable,  may  be  ascended.  The  summit  of  the 
latter  consists  of  blistered  masses  of  slag  which  surround  the  circu- 
lar crater.  About  100  ft.  below  the  summit  begin  the  lava  streams 
which  descend  towards  the  N.,  S.,  and  E.  The  last  of  these,  al- 
though almost  everywhere  covered  with  'rapilli'  (or  'lapilli',  small 
round  nodules  of  lava)  and  volcanic  sand ,  is  traceable  by  the  occa- 
sional protrusion  of  the  rock  through  its  superficial  covering ,  and 
may  be  examined  in  the  quarries  worked  in  it  in  the  direction  of 
Steinbom,  where  a  transverse  section  of  two  streams  lying  one 
above  the  other  is  exposed  to  view  (near  a  mound  of  earth  by  the  road 
side).  The  lowest  stratum  consists  of  porous  and  but  slightly  cleft 
basaltic  lava ;  above  it  lies  slag,  3-4  ft.  in  thickness ;  next  comes 
a  layer  of  rapilli  and  volcanic  sand ;  and  finally ,  next  the  surface, 
basaltic  lava  again  (comp.  p.  89).  A  little  farther  S.  is  the  Nerother 
Kopf(2060  ft.),  a  hilftrf  slag  crowned  with  a  ruined  castle,  4t/2  M. 
to  the  W.  of  Daun.  Beyond  Kirchweiler  the  hilly  road  to  Daun 
next  passes  Steinborn,  where  there  is  a  mineral  spring  (to  the  left 
the  Felsberg,  to  the  right  the  Rimmerich,  two  craters  with  lava- 
streams),  and  Neunkirchen. 

Daun.—  Hotels.  *Grethen;  *Hommes,  B.  60  pf.,  D.  IV2-2  m.; 
Schramm.  —  Herr  Grethen,  formerly  landlord  of  the  first-named  hotel, 
is  well  acquainted  with  the  district,  of  which  he  possesses  a  good  map. 

Carriage  to  Gerolstein,  Manderscheid,  or  Lutzerath,  10-12  m.  —  Dili- 
gence twice  daily  to  (14  M.)  Gerolstein ,  once  to  (IOV2  M.)  Manderscheid, 
once  to  (15  M.)  Lutzerath,  etc. 

Daun  (1230  ft.),  a  small  district-town ,  with  750  inhab.,  lies 
picturesquely  in  the  valley  of  the  Lieser,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  which 
is  crowned  with  the  remains  of  the  old  ScMoss  of  the  Counts  of 
Daun,  a  celebrated  family,  several  members  of  which  distinguished 
themselves  in  the  Austrian  service.  The  castle  was  stormed  in  1352 
by  Baldwin  of  Treves  and  William  of  Cologne.    The  modern  build- 


190    Route  26.  MOSENBERG. 

The  most  interesting  volcanic  mountain  of  the  Eifel  is  the  three- 
peaked  Mosenberg,  1  hr.  to  the  W.  of  Manderscheid.  We  first 
follow  the  Bettenfeld  road  (see  below),  and  then  turn  to  the  right. 

The  "Rosenberg  (1719  ft.)  is  a  long  hill  of  lava  extending  from 
N.  to  S.,  with  four  craters,  the  lava-walls  of  which  rise  fantastically 
to  a  height  of  50  ft.  The  basalt  and  slag  which,  form  the  summit 
have  here  protruded  250  ft.  through  the  grauwacke.  The  N.  crater, 
formerly  filled  with  water,  was  drained  in  1846 ,  and  now  yields 
peat.  The  huge  lava  -  stream  which  has  issued  from  an  opening  in 
the  S.  crater  may  be  traced  as  far  as  the  (%  M.)  Horngraben  (foot- 
path), where  it  reaches  the  KUine  KyU,  and  rises  in  perpendicular 
lava-cliffs  100  ft,  in  height.  The  hill  is  surrounded  with  beds  of 
slag  and  scorise,  and  is  but  scantily  covered  with  grass.  View  very 
extensive.  The  remains  of  a  Roman  villa  were  discovered  near  the 
footpath,  but  have  been  again  covered  in. 

On  a  lofty  plain,  1  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Mosenberg,  lies  Bettenfeld 
(Oierder,  clean  and  moderate) ,  whence  a  path  leads  to  (IV4  hr.)  Eisen- 
schmitt  (see  below).  The  Kyllburg  road  leads  straight  from  Bettenfeld  to 
the  S. W.  through  forest,  crossing  two  other  roads,  and  after  8A  hr.  descends 
into  the  Salmthal  to  the  right.  The  (iy2  hr.)  Corneshiitte  lies  on  the  right. 
We  then  cross  a  small  bridge,  pass  a  stone  cross,  ascend  a  steep  path 
through  wood,  reach  another  cross-road  (guide-post),  and  in  */«  hr.  come 
to  Ober-Kail  ("Diedenhofen),  with  the  scanty  remains  of  a  castle ,  said 
to  have  been  erected  by  Maria  Theresa.  Thence  a  good  high-road  leads 
to  (4Vz  M.)  Kyllburg  (p.  184). 

About  li/s  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Mosenberg  lies  the  Meerf elder  Maar, 
formerly  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Eifel  lakes,  now  almost  entirely  drained* 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  Maar  is  the  village  of  Meer/eld, 

From  the  Mosenberg  a  path  to  the  S.  descends  into  the  valley  to 
the  Neumuhl  (3  M.),  where  the  Kleine  Kyll  falls  into  the  Lieser, 
and  here  reaches  the  road  which  descends  in  numerous  windings 
from  (2*/2  M.)  Manderscheid.  The  scenery  of  the  valley  here  is  pictur- 
esque and  imposing.  The  road  then  winds  up  the  left  bank  of  the 
stream,  and  after  1 M.  divides.  The  road  to  the  right  leads  through 
wood  to  (2y2  M.)  Eisenschmitt  (Jung)  and  (iy2  M« ;  steep  footpath 
in  20  min.)  Schwarzeriborn  (Zens) ,  whence  a  diligence  runs  twice 
daily  (seats  not  always  obtainable)  to  Kyllburg  (6Y2  M. ;  p.  184).  \ 

The  branch  of  the  road  which  at  the  above-mentioned  bifurcation  ,> 
turns  to  the  left  soon  descends  from  the  wood  into  the  valley,  and  passes  £ 
the  EichelhiUte  and  the  buildings  of  the  Benedictine  abbey  of  ffimmerod,  f 
founded  by  St.  Bernard  of  Clairvaux  in  1139;  the  church  was  unfortun- 
ately almost  entirely  removed  at  the  beginning  of  this  century.  The  road 
then  leads  through  a  bleak  and  hilly  district  to  (472  H.)  Ghrou-Idtgen 
(Heck),  where  it  unites  with  the  Wittlich  and  Kyllburg  road,  which  as- 
cends towards  the  E.  The  country  becomes  more  fertile.  Beyond  (2l/4  M.) 
Minder -Litgen  (1151  ft.),  whence  a  good  retrospect  of  the  Mosenberg  is 
enjoyed,  the  road  descends  into  the  valley  in  windings,  but  a  footpath 
Vt  M.  from  the  village  cuts  off  nearly  half  the  circuit  of  3  M.  which  the 
road  describes.  The  *View  over  the  rich  plain  sloping  towards  the  Mo- 
selle, and  the  mountains  of  the  latter,  rendered  more  picturesque  by  the 
red  sandstone  which  here  supersedes  the  grauwacke,  forms  a  pleasant 
conclusion  to  the  tour. 

Wittlich,  see  p.  176.  Omnibus  toWengerohr  (p.  176)  in  72  to*; 
diligence,  via  Schwarzenborn,  to  (I7V2M.)  Kyllburg  (p.  184),  4  bra. 


191 
27.  From  Coblenz  to  Wetzlar. 

Ems  and  the  Valley  of  the  Lahn. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  102. 

64  M.  Railway  CStaatsbaJm")  by  Niederlahnstein  to  Ems  in  V*-*/i  br. 
(fares  i  m.  50,  i  m.,  70  pf.),  to  Wetzlar  in  2^3  hrs.  (fares  8  m.  40,  5  m.  60, 
3  m.  60 pf.;  express  9m.  40 pf.,  7m.).  The  trains  starts  from  the  Mosel- 
babnhof  (p.  90). 

[The  Rhenish  railway  is  not  in  direet  connection  with  the  Lahn  Valley 
railway,  but  travellers  from  Coblenz  by  the  former  line  reach  the  latter 
at  Niederlahnstein  (p.  98),  where  they  change  carriages.  Travellers  arriving 
at  Coblenz  by  the  railway  of  the  Left  Bank,  or  at  Ehrenbreitstein  by  the 
railway  of  the  Right  Bank,  may  either  drive  to  the  Hoselbahnhof,  or  take 
the  train  to  Niederlahnstein  and  there  await  the  train  for  the  Lahn  Valley.] 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  94, 
and  passes  through  a  cutting  on  the  landward  side  of  Horchheim 
(comp.  p.  126). 

3  M.  ITiederlahnitein  (p.  98),  the  junction  of  the  Staatsbahn 
with  the  Rhenish  railway  from  Ehrenbreitstein  and  the  Railway  of 
the  Right  Bank  (for  Wiesbaden,  p.  126).  Travellers  for  these  lines 
change  carriages.    There  is  generally  considerable  detention  here. 

The  train  now  runs  along  the  hillside,  affording  a  fine  view  of 
Lahneck  (p.  100)  to  the  right.  It  then  crosses  the  Lahn,  and 
ascends  on  the  left  bank.  Several  ironworks  are  observed.  The 
river  is  provided  with  numerous  locks  to  facilitate  the  navigation 
of  the  barges  which  convey  to  the  Rhine  the  ores  yielded  by  this 
district.  Ems  only  becomes  visible  when  the  train  is  close  to  the 
town.  The  Four  Towers  and  the  Oursaal  with  its  pleasure-grounds 
are  the  most  conspicuous  objects. 

l^/^M.Em*.  —Hotels.  *Englischeb  Hor,  at  the  lower  end;  *Russi- 
schbb  Hof,  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  D.  27«  m. ;  *Viek  Jahbebzeiten 
Hotel  &  Eubopaiscrkb  Hof,  near  the  Cursaal ;  *Dabmstadtbb  Hof,  near  the 
bridge  and  the  railway  -  station ,  D.  3  m.;  these  all  of  the  first  class.  — 
""Hotel  Sghloss  Lakgenau,  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town;  Hotel  de 
Flandbe  ;  *  Hotel  Gcttenbebg  ,  R.  2»/»  m.,  L.  50,  A.  50,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. ; 
*H6tel  db  Fba*cb,  the  last  three  near  the  station,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn;  Hotel  Johannisbbbg  ;  Hotel  Rbuteb;  Goldnb  Tbaube,  well 
spoken  of;  *Weilbubgeb  Hof,  moderate;  Stadt  Stbassbubg;  Hotel 
Roth;  Villa  Bella  Riva,  in  a  shady  situation  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn,  opposite  the  new  Roman  Catholic  Church,  'pens/  5-8  m.,  well 
spoken  of;  Hotel  Godeke,  with  good  garden -restaurant,  near  the  old 
bridge  over  the  Lahn ;  Zub  Sfobkenbubg  and  Rheinisgheb  Hof  (moder- 
ate), both  in  the  village  of  Ems. 

There  are  also  numerous  Lodging  Houses.  Those  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river  are  preferable  in  the  height  of  summer,  owing  to  their  shady 
situation.  Some  of  them  are  very  comfortably  fitted  up.  The  more  re- 
mote housed  are  of  course  the  least  expensive.  Breakfast  and  tea  are 
provided  at  all  of  these,  but  dinner  rarely.  The  most  important  is  the 
Cubhaus,  with  several  dependencies,  where  prices  are  fixed  by  tariff. 
At  the  Bbaunschweigeb  Hof,  Pkince  of  Wales,  and  Stadt  Loudon  dinner 
is  provided.  Charges  are  somewhat  high  at  Ems ,  as  at  all  the  principal 
watering-places,  but  have  sunk  a  little  lately  and  are  reduced  at  the 
beginning  and  end  of  the  season. 
„_&e»taurants  and  Oaf  As.  *Curhaus,  with  table  d'hote,  and  Cursaal,  both 
of  the  first  class ;  Villa  Beriot,  with  a  garden,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn;   also  at  all   the    hotels.     The   JSchweizerhcluschtn ,    halfway   up  the 


192     Route  27.  EMS.  FrmnCMeni 

hill  on  the  left  bank ;  Sitberau  at  the  end  of  the  Konig-Wilhelms-Allee ; 
Lindenbach  (p.  194),  iy4  M.  from  the  Cursaal. 

Beer  in  the  gardens  of  the  Cursaal,  at  the  Ldtee  (with  rooms  to 
let,  plain  but  comfortable),  Ooldne  Fats,  ScMtzenhof,  Ca{6  Alemannia,  etc. 

Carriages  with  one  donkey  2  m.,  with  two  3  m.  per  hour.  A  drive 
within  the  precincts  of  the  town  70  pf.,  after  9  p.m.  I1/*  m. ;  carriage  with 
one  horse  to  Kloster  Arnstein  and  back,  IOV2  m.,  with  two  horses  15  m. ; 
to  Goblenz  10  or  15 ,  and  back  12  or  18  m. ;  to  Ehrenbreitstein  8  or  12, 
and  back  12  or  17  m. ;  to  Kemmenau  and  back  V/i  or  11  m. ;  to  Nieder- 
Lahnstein  6  or  9,  Ober-Lahnstein  7  or  11  m.  \  to  Nassau  and  back  6  or 
10  m.  —  The  drivers  must  exhibit  their  tariff  when  desired. 

Donkeys  per  hour  IV2  m.  -x  to  the  Oberlahnstein  Forsthaus  direct  (and 
back,  including  a  stay  of  1  hr.)  2'/2  m. ;  to  the  Sporkenburg  2'/2m.;  Kem- 
menauer  Hohe  2Vsm. ;  Mooshiitte  1  m.,  summit  of  the  same  1  m.  70  pf.  *, 
by  the  new  promenade  to  the  Lindenbach  ly«  m*  —  All  these  charges 
include  the  return-route. 

Tariffs  of  the  various  charges ,  fares ,  and  fees  may  be  purchased  for 
20  pf.  —  A  tax  of  15  m.  is  levied  on  each  single  patient  after  a  stay,  of  a 
week  5  for  2  pers.  21,  for  3  pers.  27  m.  —  The  charges  for  baths  vary  in  the 
different  houses  from  1  m.  to  3  m.  —  No  charge  is  made  for  drinking  the 
waters  at  the  thermal  springs ,  but  a  fee  of  50  pf.  per  week  is  usually 
paid  to  the  girl  in  attendance. 

Music  7-8.30  a.m.,  the  hours  during  which  the  waters  are  drunk; 
4  to  5.30  p.m.  in  the  public  grounds;  and  8  to  9.30  p.m.  in  the  Cursaal.  At 
the  latter  theatrical  performances  and  concerts  are  also  given. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Office,  adjoining  the  D  arms  tad  ter  Hof,  near  the 
principal  bridge. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  English  Church  on  the  left  bank  at  11 
a.m.  and  6  p.m.  (communion  at  8.30  a.m.).  Chaplain ,  Rev.  W.  O.  Par- 
minter,  of  Stuttgart. 

Ems  (221  ft.)  was  known  to  the  Romans ,  as  the  vases ,  coins, 
etc.,  found  in  the  vicinity,  prove,  but  is  mentioned  for  the  first 
time  as  a  warm  bath  in  a  document  of  1354.  It  is  now  visited  an- 
nually by  10-12,000  patients,  besides  5000  tourists,  while  in  1823 
the  number  was  1200  only.  The  height  of  the  season  is  from  the 
middle  of  July  to  the  end  of  August.  From  1803  to  1866  it  be- 
longed to  the  Duchy  of  Nassau,  and  is  now  Prussian.  It  is  a 
curious  fact ,  showing  to  what  an  extent  Germany  was  formerly 
subdivided ,  that  from  the  bridge  over  the  Lahn,  which  commands 
but  a  limited  view,  the  dominions  of  eight  different  indepen- 
dent princes  could  be  seen. 

The  town  (6000  inhab.,  J/3  Rom.  Oath.)  is  prettily  situated  on 
both  banks  of  the  Lahn  in  a  narrow  valley ,  enclosed  by  wooded 
and  vine  -  clad  rocky  heights.  It  consists  of  a  street  of  lodging- 
houses  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  the  original  lBad  Ems';  of 
a  new  quarter  on  the  left  bank,  named  lSj>ies8-Em8\  with  numerous 
handsome  villas  at  the  base  of  the  Malberg ;  and  of  'Z)of/  Ems', 
or  the  old  village,  at  the  lower  end  of  'Bad  Ems'.  The  English 
Church  is  on  the  left  bank.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  connected 
by  four  bridges. 

The  Cursaal,  the  Curhaus,  and  the  Curgarten  adjoining  them 
form  the  great  centre  of  attraction  to  visitors,  the  pleasure-grounds 
of  the  latter  being  generally  thronged  with  a  fashionable  crowd  wRile 
the  band  plays  in  the  afternoon. 


to  Wetzlar. 


EiVfS. 


27.  Route.     1 93 


The  Curhaus,  erected  at  the  end  of  last  century,  and  frequently 
enlarged  since  then,  contains  the  most  important  springs  and  about 
60  baths,  the  best  of  which  are  on  the  first  floor.  In  the  arcades, 
which  were  extended  in  1854,  are  the  principal  springs  used  for 
drinking :  the  KesseWrunnen  (125°  Fahr.),  in  the  upper  arcade, 
and  the  Krahnchen  (95-97°),  the  Furstenbrunnen  (102-104°),  and 
the  Kaiserquelle  (81° ;  the  pleasantest  to  drink)  in  the  lower.  The 
waters  are  chiefly  drunk  between  6  and  8  a.m.  —  The  Konig-  Wil- 
helms-Felsen-Quelle,  the  Augusta-Quelfa  and  the  Victoria- Quelle, 
three  springs  lately  discovered,  in  the  court  of  the  NassauerHof,  are 
used  both,  internally  and  externally.  The  bath-house  in  connection 
with  them  is  joined  by  covered  passages  with  the  Vier  Jahreszeiten 


'OMOtMJtiO    k 


Hotel  and  the  Europaischer  Hof.  The  bath-house  Prince  of  Wales 
also  possesses  springs  of  its  own.  The  chief  ingredients  of  the  water, 
which  is  chiefly  beneficial  in  female  and  pulmonary  complaints, 
are  bi-carbonate  of  soda  and  chloride  of  sodium.  About  two  mil- 
lion bottles  are  exported  annually. 

The  Cursaal,  situated  in  the  Gurgarten,  is  connected  with  the 
Curhaus  by  means  of  a  tasteful  iron  Colonnade,  in  which  is  a 
tempting  bazaar.  The  Cursaal,  erected  in  1839,  contains  several 
magnificent  saloons,  a  reading-room,  a  restaurant,  and  a  cafe*,  which 
last,  with  its  numerous  tables  in  the  gardens  adjoining,  attracts 
crowds  of  after-dinner  loungers. 

Near  the  pavilion  of  the  band,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Cur- 
garten,  a  marble  slab  in  the  ground  indicates  the  spot,  where,  on 
13th  July,  1870,   King  William  ordered  his  adjutant  Count  Lehn- 

BAKDEKia'a  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  13 


194     Route  27.  EMS.  From  CobUnt 

dorf  to  give  his  memorable  answer  to  the  obtrusive  French  am- 
bassador Benedettl.  A  covered  iron  bridge  connects  this  bank  of  the 
Lahn  with  the  new  bath-house  (see  below). 

In  the  shady  grounds  at  the  back  of  the  Cursaal  is  the  new 
Wandelbahn  (generally  called  the  Trinkhalle),  or  covered  prome- 
nade for  the  use  of  visitors  in  wet  weather.  On  the  Lahn,  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  park,  is  the  bath-house  of  the  Four  Towers  (  Viet 
Thiirme),  built  at  the  end  of  last  century.  Adjacent  is  the  new 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  near  which  an  iron  bridge,  constructed  in 
1878,  crosses  the  Lahn. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn,  near  the  iron  bridge,  and  also 
surrounded  by  pleasant  grounds ,  is  the  New  Bath  House  (Neue 
Badhaus),  erected  in  1853,  each  of  its  courts  being  embellished  with 
fountains  of  mineral  water  worked  by  steam.  The  baths  are  supplied 
from  the  copious  Neue  Quelle,  or  New  Spring,  which  was  disclosed  in 
1850,  the  warmest  (135-137°)  of  all  the  waters  of  Ems. 

On  the  left  bank  there  are  also  shady  walks  skirting  the  river, 
the  chief  being  the  Konig-WUhelms- Alice,  on  which  is  a  Russian 
Chapel,  built  in  1876.  At  the  end  oftheAUee  a  bridge  crosses  to  the 
right  bank.  —  Beautiful,  shady  walks  intersect  the  slopes  of  the 
wooded  Malberg,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  the  favourite  Schweizer- 
hauschen  and  Villa  Beriot  cafe's,  commanding  good  views.  The  top 
of  the  hill,  called  the  Malbergskopf,  which  may  be  reached  in 
3/4-l  hr. ,  is  crowned  with  a  belvedere  and  a  restaurant.  We  may 
now  descend  by  the  Lindenbach  (*Inn) ,  a  silver-mine ,  l1^  M. 
below  Ems,  where  the  Lahn  is  crossed  by  an  iron  bridge. 

The  nearer  peak  of  the  Winterberg  (Restaurant),  a  hill  on  the 
left  bank  to  the  E.  of  the  Malbergskopf,  V2  *"•  from  Ems,  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Lahn.  On  the  summit  is  a 
tower,  built  after  a  design  on  Trajan's  Column,  on  the  foundations 
of  an  old  Roman  tower  which  formerly  stood  here.  The  Pfahlgraben 
(p.  216),  which  was  provided  at  intervals  with  similar  towers,  is 
still  traceable  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn ,  immediately  above  the  high- 
road, towers  the  abrupt  *Baderlei,  or  'Sicben  Kopfe\  a  jagged  rock 
of  slate  crowned  with  the  Concordia  Thurm  (refreshments),  a  tower 
built  for  the  sake  of  the  view.  Halfway  up  is  the  *Mooshuttc,  a 
pavilion  commanding  an  admirable  survey  of  Ems,  below  which  is 
a  monument  to  the  warriors  of  1870-71.  We  reach  the  summit 
in  3/4  hr.  by  following  the  Grabenstrasse,  above  the  Ourhaus,  and 
then  ascending  by  the  broad  path  to  the  right. 

The  *Xtmmenauer  Htthe,  or  Sch&ne  Auuicht,  l1/*  hr.  to  the  N.  of 
Ems,  may  either  be  reached  by  the  footpath  ascending  a  small  side-valley 
to  the  left  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Grabenstrasse ,  or  by  the  road  from 
the  lower  end  of  Dorf  Ems  (restaurant  at  the  top).  This  is  one  of  the 
highest  points  to  the  N.  of  the  Lahn ,  and  commands  an  extensive  and 
interesting  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine,  the  Taunus,  and  the  Eifel 
Mts. ;  far  below  in  the  foreground  stands  the  castle  of  Sporkenbttrg,  and 
to  the  right  rise  the  two  curious  trachytic  Arftacher  Kdpf*.    An  equally 


to  Wetzlar.  NASSAU.  27.  Route.     195 

fine  view  towards  the  E.,  embracing  the  whole  duchy  of  Nassau  as  far 
as  the  Taunus  Mts.,  is  obtained  from  the  neighbourhood  of  a  large  beech 
near  the  Tillage  of  Kemmenau,  1  If.  to  the  N.,  on  the  way  to  Montabaur. 

On  the  hill  between  Ems  and  Braubach  is  situated  the  village  of 
Frucht,  which  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  famous  Prussian  minister 
Baron  Stein  (d.  1831),  the  last  scion  of  a  noble  family  which  had  resided  on 
the  banks  of  the  Lahn  for  seven  centuries  (see  below).  The  epitaph  contains 
a  tribute  to  the  upright  and  pious  character  of  the  deceased.  The  forester 
at  Frucht  keeps  the  keys  of  the  chapel  Q/rll/%  m.).  —  A  direct  road  leads 
from  Ems  to  Frucht  (3  M .) ;  or  we  may  descend  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn  to  Mullen  (2  M.)  and  ascend  thence  through  the  Schweizerthal,  a 
valley  with  beautiful  woods  and  picturesque  rocks,  to  Frucht  0/«  br.); 
the  latter  route  is  specially  recommended  in  returning.  Frucht  lies  about 
1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  route  from  Ems  to  Braubach  mentioned  at  p.  101. 

Other  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  Coblenzer  For*thau$y  to  Na*tau,  to 
the  monastery  of  Arnstein ,  the  castle  of  Schaumbvrg ,  etc.  (see  below). 


Railway  to  Wbtzlar.  Leaving  Ems,  the  train  passes  Dausc- 
nau  (Lahnthal),  on  the  right  bank,  with  an  ancient  octagonal 
tower,  and  still  surrounded  by  old  walls.  The  church  dates  from 
the  13th,  its  vestibule  from  the  15th  century.  Near  Nassau  the 
train  crosses  the  Lahn. 

I51/2  M.  (from  Coblenz)  Nassau  (265  ft. ;  Krone;  *Miiller,  at 
the  station,  R.  &  B.  2V2  m- ;  Hotel  Nassau,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Lahn;  Pension  Villa  Beilstein,  board  3m.,  R.  extra;  Kilp's  Private 
Hotel ;  beer  at  Kilps ;  donkey  from  the  suspension-bridge  to  Burg 
Stein  70  pf.,  to  Burg  Nassau  l1/^  m.),  an  ancient  little  town,  be- 
lieved to  have  existed  as  early  as  790  under  the  name  of  Nasonga, 
is  prettily  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn  (which  is  here 
crossed  by  a  suspension-bridge),  and  is  much  frequented  by  sum- 
mer visitors.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the  celebrated  Prussian  min- 
ister Baron  Stein  (d.  1831 ;  see  above),  whose  family  had  resided 
here  since  the  15th  century.  His  Schloss,  though  modernised,  dates 
from  1621,  and  now  belongs  to  his  grand-daughter  the  Countess 
Kielmannsegge.  In  1815  Stein  caused  a  Gothic  tower  to  be  added 
to  commemorate  the  war  of  independence.  This  was  a  favourite 
resort  of  the  illustrious  proprietor,  who  embellished  it  with  various 
reminiscences  of  that  eventful  period.  Others  connected  with  the  last 
war  have  been  added.  (Visitors  deposit  a  donation  for  a  charitable 
purpose  in  a  box  at  the  entrance.)  The  Schlosspark  is  open  to  the 
public  daily,  except  Sundays  and  festivals,  8-12  a.m.  and  2-7  p.m. 

To  the  W.  of  Nassau,  on  the  road  to  Ems,  are  Bad  Nassau,  a 
Hydropathic  Establishment,  on  the  left  (food,  baths,  and  medical 
attendance  5y2  m.,  R.  1-5  m.  per  day),  and  a  new  Roman  Catholic 
Church  on  the  right. 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Lahn  rises  a  wooded  eminence 
(ascended  from  the  station  in  25  min.),  crowned  by  the  ruined 
*Castle  of  Nassau,  erected  in  1101  by  Dudo  IV.,  Count  of  Lauren- 
burg  (p.  196),  whose  descendants  henceforth  assumed  the  name  of 
Nassau ;  it  has  been  suffered  to  fall  to  decay  since  the  end  of  the* 
16th  century.    Lower  down  on  the  same  hill  are  the  ruins  of  Burg 

13* 


196    Route  27.  LAURENBURG.  From  Coblenz 

Stein  (*/2  M.  from  the  suspension-bridge),  the  ancestral  seat  of  the 
Barons  Stein,  the  earliest  mention  of  which  is  in  1158,  and  which 
was  inhabited  down  to  the  end  of  the  17th  century.  The  projecting 
rock  in  front  of  it  bears  a  *  Monument  to  Stein ,  consisting  of  a 
statue  in  marble  one  half  over  life-size,  by  Pfuhl  of  Berlin,  beneath 
a  Gothic  canopy  of  red  sandstone,  61  ft.  in  height,  inaugurated  in 
1872.  The  figure  of  the  minister,  who  wears  the  costume  of  his 
age,  successfully  expresses  his  personal  character.  In  his  right  hand 
he  holds  a  scroll  with  the  date  11th  June,  1807,  in  allusion  to  his 
treatise  regarding  the  reorganisation  of  the  Prussian  state.  The 
terrace  affords  a  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Lahn. 

The  rocks  of  the  *Hohe  Lei,  reached  from  Nassau  in  3/<  hr.  (donkey 
2'/2  m.),  command  a  beautiful  view,  including  the  monastery  of  Arnstein. 
—  Pleasant  walks  may  also  be  taken  to  the  (3/<  &*•)  pavilion  on  the  Nas- 
sauer  £ergr  the  pavilion  on  the  Hfqhnkopf,  the  MUhlbachthal,  etc. 

Beyond  Nassau  the  railway  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Lahn, 
and  is  soon  carried  through  a  series  of  tunnels.  Before  and  beyond 
the  second ,  a  glimpse  is  obtained  on  the  right  of  Burg  Langenau 
(3  M.  from  Nassau,  1 M.  from  Obernhof),  built  in  1244,  the  ancient 
seat  of  an  Austrian  family,  the  Rhenish  branch  of  which  became 
extinct  in  1603.  The  watch-tower  and  external  walls  are  well  pre- 
served ;  within  the  latter  a  modern  dwelling-house  has  been  erected. 
Beyond  the  castle,  on  the  opposite  bank,  rises  the  *Kloster  Arnstein 
(from  Nassau  a  pleasant  walk  of  4  M.  on  the  left  bank ;  from 
Obernhof  Y4  hr. ;  refreshments  at  the  Klostermuhle) ,  with  its 
church  in  the  transition-style  of  the  12th  cent,  (enlarged  in  1359), 
and  other  buildings,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  wooded  eminenoe. 
A  castle  of  very  ancient  origin  which  once  stood  here  was  converted 
by  the  last  Count  of  Arnstein  or  Amoldstein  into  a  Premonstraten- 
sian  monastery  in  1208  (suppressed  in  1803).  Near  (18  M.)  Obernhof 
(Bingel;  TaOtz),  where  several  trains  stop  in  summer,  are  lead  and 
silver-mines,  the  working  of  which  has  lately  been  resumed.  A 
fine  point  of  view  in  the  vicinity  is  known  as  the  Goethepunkt, 
from  a  visit  made  to  it  by  Goethe  in  1814. 

The  line  now  passes  through  a  long  tunnel,  and  skirts  the  village 
of  Kalkofen.  Then  a  long  curve.  High  up,  on  the  slopes  of  the  left 
bank,  is  situated  the  'AlteHauf,  a  solitary  fragment  of  wall  belong- 
ing to  the  old  nunnery  of  Brunnenburg. 

241/2  M.  Laurenbnrg  (Bingel),  with  silver-smelting  works ,  a 
small  chateau,  and  the  ruins  of  the  ancestral  residence  of  the  Counts 
of  Nassau,  who  were  originally  Counts  of  Laurenbnrg  (comp.  p.  195) ; 
this  castle  is  first  mentioned  in  1093  and  was  already  a  ruin  in  1643. 

Before  the  church  is  reached,  a  road  to  the  left  ascends  to  (l1/*  M.)  Scheid, 
and  about  8  min.  farther  again  leaves  the  main  road  and' descends  to  the 
left  to  (1  M.)  Geilnau  on  the  Lahn.  The  river  describes  a  circuit  of  many 
miles  between  Laurenburg  and  Geilnau,  which  this  route  cuts  off.  The 
mineral  spring  of  Geilnau  is  V2  M.  above  the  village ;  it  is  not  resorted  to 
by  patients ,  but  the  water  is  exported.  The  valley  between  Geilnau  and. 
the  (£74  M.)  ferry  of  Balduinstein  is  very  picturesque. 

Beyond  the  Cramberg  Tunnel  the  train  stops  at  (28  M.)  Balduin- 


to  Wetzlar.  LIMBURG.  27.  Route.     1 97 

stein  (Noll) ;  the  imposing  mips  of  the  castle  of  that  name,  built 
in  1319,  rise  in  a  narrow  ravine  behind  the  village. 

On  the  right,  a  little  farther  on,  the  loftily  situated  castle  of 
*Schaumburg  (915  ft. ;  *Restaurant)  overlooks  the  valley  from  a 
wooded  basaltic  peak.  It  was  once  the  seat  of  the  princes  of  Anhalt- 
Schaumburg,  and  afterwards  that  of  Archduke  Stephen  (d.  1867), 
grandson  of  the  last  prince  (d.  1812) ;  it  is  now  the  property  of  Duke 
George  of  Oldenburg.  The  castle  was  built  before  1194,  but  the 
oldest  parts  of  the  present  building  date  from  the  18th  cent. ;  the 
modern  part,  in  the  English-Gothic  style,  was  erected  for  Archduke 
Stephen  by  the  architect  Boos  of  Wiesbaden.  Fine  view  from  the 
tower.  The  collection  of  minerals  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  hothouses 
contain  a  number  of  rare  plants.  The  footpath  from  Balduinstein 
to  Schaumburg  is  somewhat  steep,  l1^  M. ;  by  the  carriage-road 
the  ascent  is  gradual  (2^4  M. ;  carriages  at  the  station). 

29  M.  Fachingen  (Anker)  derives  importance  from  its  mineral 
spring,  of  which  90,000  bottles  are  annually  exported.  The  pro- 
oess  of  filling  and  corking  is  interesting. 

32  M.  Diet*  (334  ft. ;  *HoUandi8cher  Hof ;  *H6tel  Lorcns),  a 
thriving  little  town  with  4400  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  hillside,  close  to  the  Lahn ,  is  commanded  by  the  Peterskirche, 
built  in  the  13th  cent.,  and  by  an  old  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Dietz, 
now  a  house  of  correction,  where  marble  is  out  and  polished  by  the 
prisoners.  The  old  stone  Bridge  across  the  Lahn  is  supported  by 
buttresses  erected  on  two  others  belonging  to  an  earlier  bridge 
(destroyed  in  1552)  which  lie  unbroken  in  the  bed  of  the  river. 

On  the  left  bank ,  1  M.  from  Dietz ,  and  connected  with  it  by  a 
beautiful  avenue  of  limes,  is  Schlost  Oraniemtcin,  erected  in  1676, 
now  a  Prussian  military  school. 

From  Dietz  to  Zollhaus,  7  M.,  railway  in  25  minutes.  The  line  ascends 
the  pretty  valley  of  the  Aar,  which  falls  into  the  Lahn  at  Dietz.  To  the 
left,  near  (2V2  M.)  Flachty  stands  the  ruin  of  Ardeck.  3  M.  Oberneisen; 
5V2M.  Hahnttdtten  (Nassauer  Hof)  5  7M.  Zollhaus.  Pleasant  excursions'  may 
be  made  from  the  two  latter  to  the  ruined  castles  of  Hohlen/els  and  Burg 
Scfmalbach.  A  good  road  leads  in  the  valley  of  the  Aar  from  Hahnstatten 
to  Hohenitein,  Adolphseck,  and  (15  M.)  Schwalbach  (p.  129)  5  diligence  once 
dailv  in  3»A  hrs. 

31 1/2  M.  Limburg  (360  ft. ;  *Preu88iseher  Hof ,  near  the  post- 
office  ;  *Na88auerHof,  near  the  station,  R.  &B.  2m ;  Hotel  Zimmer- 
mann ;  beer  at  the  Actienbrauerei,  on  the  Wiesbaden  road) ,  an  old 
town  with  5100  inhab.,  a  place  of  some  importance  in  the  middle 
ages,  and  now  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop ,  is  situated  on 
the  Lahn ,  which  is  crossed  here  by  a  bridge  constructed  in  1315. 
The  *  Cathedral ,  with  its  seven  towers ,  the  'Basilica  St.  Oeorgii 
Martyris  erectd  909' ,  as  the  inscription  above  the  portal  records, 
rises  conspicuously  above  the  river,  froin  the  right  bank  of  which 
the  best  view  of  it  is  obtained.  It  was  founded  by  Conrad  Kurz- 
bold,  the  powerful  Salic  count  of  the  Niederlahngau,  whose  Castle 
adjoins  the  church.    The  present  structure  1  a  remarkably  fine  ex- 


198    Route  27.  WEILBURG.  From  Coblenz 

ample  of  the  transition-style ,  consecrated  in  1235,  was  skilfully 
restored  in  1872-78.  It  contains  an  antique  font,  and  a  monument 
to  the  founder  (d.  948) ,  with  a  recumbent  figure ,  In  front  of  the 
high-altar.  The  old  paintings  have  been  renewed  by  Wittkopf .  The 
valuable  treasury  of  the  cathedral,  preserved  in  the  chapter-house, 
is  worthy  of  inspection.  The  sacristan  lives  opposite  the  entrance. 
The  War  Monument  for  1870-71  is  in  the  Gothic  style.  Limburg 
contains  the  workshops  of  the  Berlin  and  Metz  railway. 

Fkom  Limbcbg  to  Hadamar,  5M.,  by  a  branch-line  in  20  min.  (fares 
65,  45,  30  pf.)-  Hadamar  (423  ft. ;  *Nas»auer  Hof;  Boss)  is  a  pleasant  little 
town  with  an  ancient  castle.  About  6  M.  to  the  X.  is  situated  the  basaltic 
Dornburg  (1298  ft.),  a  cavern  on  the  S.  side  of  which  contains  a  consider- 
able mass  of  ice  remaining  unmelted  throughout  the  summer.  —  From 
Limburg  to  Wiesbaden,  Hdchtt,  and  Franltfort,  aee  R.  29  d. 

Beyond  Limburg  the  banks  of  the  Lahn  become  flatter  for  a 
short  distance.  To  the  left  lies  Dietkirchen ,  with  the  oldest  church 
in  the  Duchy,  built  before  801 ,  situated  on  a  rocky  eminence  ris- 
ing abruptly  from  the  river.    34l/a  M.  EscJihofen ;  then  — 

36y2  M.  Bnnkel  (368  ft. ;  Wurt scher  Hof;  Zur  Lahnbahn), 
an  ancient  town  situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Lahn,  commanded  by 
an  extensive  old  castle  of  the  princes  of  Wied ,  dating  from  about 
1159,  perched  on  a  rocky  height,  and  now  occupied  by  the  local 
authorities.  On  the  hill  opposite  lies  the  village  of  Schculeck,  with 
an  old  castle ,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view  (10  min.  from 
the  station).  —  Near  (38j/2  M.J  Villmar  (Basting)  are  considerable 
marble-quarries ;  then  (43  M.)  Aumenau,  with  ironstone-mines  and 
slate-quarries.  After  a  succession  of  tunnels,  bridges,  and  viaducts, 
the  train  reaches  — 

50  M.  Weilburg  (*Deut8chea  Haus ;  *Traube;  Bohm)>  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Dukes  of  Nassau-Weilburg  down  to  1816.  Their  cha- 
teau ,  begun  in  1543  and  enlarged  in  1721,  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  rocky  eminence,  and  still  habitable ,  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  To 
the  S.  is  the  entrance  to  the  pretty  Weilthal.  —  The  wealth  of  the 
district  consists  in  the  presence  of  red  ironstone,  yielding  45-50  per 
cent  of  pure  metal,  between  the  layers  of  slate.  About  200,000  tons 
of  ore  are  mined  in  the  Weilburg  district  yearly,  in  procuring  which 
upwards  of  2000,  miners  are  engaged. 

52  M.  Lohnberg ;  55  M.  Stockhausen;  58  M.  Braunfels.  In  the 
neighbourhood  are  several  iron  mines,  the  ores  from  which  are 
brought  to  the  main  line  by  small  wire-rope  railways. 

On  a  hill  2>A  H.  to  the  S.  of  the  station  of  Braunfels  is  situated  the 
small  town  of  Braunfels  (Solmser  Hof),  the  residence  of  the  Prince  of 
Solms-Braunfels ,  whose  extensive  Schloss ,  part  of  which  dates  from  the 
late-Gothic  period,  contains  interesting  old  armour  and  other  curiosities. 
Pleasant  grounds. 

From  (61  M.)  Albshausen  (Deutscher  Kaiser)  we  may  walk  in 
V2  hr.  to  t^e  suppressed  Premonstratensian  abbey  of  Altenbergy  the 
beautiful  early-Gothic  church  of  which  was  completed  at  the  end 
of  the  13th  cent.,  .and  contains  ancient  tombstones  and  wood- 
carving. 


to  Wetzlar.  WETZLAR.  27.  Route.     199 

64  M.  Wetilar(475  ft.;  •Herzogliehes  Haus,  in  the  town ;  *H6tel 
Kaltwasser,  near  the  station ;  *Ortenbachis  Restaurant,  wine),  with 
7000  inhab. ,  once  a  free  imperial  town,  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
the  Lahn  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Dill,  3/4  m.  from  the  station, 
near  which  are  a  rolling-mill  and  blast-furnace.  The  town  extends 
along  a  height  on  the  left  bank.  The  most  conspicuous  building  is 
the  *  Cathedral,  the  oldest  part  of  which  (N.W.),  called  the  Heiden- 
thurm  by  the  townspeople,  dates  from  the  11th cent.,  while  the  N. 
side,  the  finest  part,  was  erected  in  the  14th  and  15th,  and  the 
portals  in  the  loth  and  16th  centuries.  The  terrace  planted  with 
limes  is  adorned,  on  the  S.  side,  with  a  monument  to  soldiers  who 
fell  in  theFranco-Pru88ian  war,  by  Lehr.  To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral, 
in  the  Buttermarkt,  which  is  embellished  with  a  bust  of  Qoethe  by 
Lehr ,  rises  the  guard-house ,  built  of  red  sandstone.  The  Reichs- 
kammcrgericht  (courts  of  justice) ,  with  the  imperial  eagle ,  is 
opposite  the  Herzogliches  Haus.  The  building  of  the  Archives,  near 
the  Hauser  Thor,  finished  in  1806,  contains  those  state  papers  and 
documents  of  the  German  Confederation  which  remained  over  after 
the  distribution  among  the  different  states  in  1845-52 ,  and  also 
the  share  assigned  to  Prussia;  the  upper  floors  are  occupied  by 
courts  of  law. 

About  i/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Wetzlar  rises  the  ruined  castle  of 
KaUmunty  which  is  said  to  be  built  on  Roman  foundations.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  is  the  Schiitzengarten.  Kalsmunt  and  the  Metze- 
lurg  (restaurant)  are  the  finest  points  in  the  environs. 

Qoethe  resided  at  Wetzlar  for  some  months  in  1772 ,  when  he 
was  engaged  in  professional  work  at  the  Reichskammergericht,  and 
is  said  to  have  occupied  a  house ,  indicated  by  a  marble  tablet ,  in 
the  narrow  Gewandgasse,  near  the  corn-market.  Various  events 
Jiere  and  in  the  environs  suggested  his  'Sorrows  of  Werther'. 

The  original  of  Werther  was  a  certain  Herr  Jerusalem ,  secretary  to 
the  embassy,  who  shot  himself  in  a  house  (with  two  bow-windows)  in 
the  Schiller-Platz,  near  the  Franciscan  church.  The  Deutsches  Haus,  or 
Lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order  (reached  by  the  street  to  the  left  of  the  new 
guard-house,  opposite  the  S.  transept  of  the  cathedral)  was  the  residence  of 
Charlotte's  father,  named  Buff,  the  manager  of  the  estates  of  the  Order, 
and  still  contains  a  room  with  a  few  memorials  of  her.  Tte  house  is 
distinguished  by  an  inscription ;  apply  for  admission  to  the  custodian,  who 
lives  behind  the  cathedral.  Outside  the  Wildbacher  Thor  is  the  'Werther 
Brunnen',  shaded  by  a  venerable  lime-tree,  a  favourite  resort  of  Goethe, 
by  whom  the  pretty  environs  of  Wetzlar  have  been  highly  extolled.  A 
broad  road  ascends  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Lahn  to  (l1/?  M.)  Qarbenheim, 
the  Wahlheim  of  Werther,  situated  on  a  hill  commanding  a  pleasant  view 
of  the  valley.  Most  of  the  old  houses  in  the  'Werther-Platz'  in  front  of 
the  church  were  burned  down  in  1866.  A  monument  here  marks  a 
favourite  seat  of  the  poet.  The  traveller  may  return  by  the  Garbenheim 
watch-tower,  commanding  a  fine  view.  On  the  slope  of  a  hill,  3  M.  from 
Wetzlar,  lies  the  pleasant  village  of  Volperithauten,  in  a  house  in  which 
(formerly  a  shooting-lodge,  now  a  school)  the  .ball  described  in  Werther 
took  place. 

From  Wetzlar  to  Deutz  or  Qiessen,  see  R.  8 ;  to  Lollar,  Cassel, 
and  Berlin,  see  Baedeker's  Northern  Germany. 


200 


28.  Frankfort. 


Railway  Stations.   Frankfort  has  seven  stations.  On  the  W.  side  of  the 
town  (PI.  B,  5)  are:  —  (1).  M ain - Wesek - Bahnhof ,  for   Giessen,   Ca*»elf- 
Homburg,  and  Cronberg  (R.  29b) ;  (2).  Taunus  Bahnhof,  for  Castel  (op 


Mayence),  Wiesbaden  (R.  29a) ,  Soden  (R.  29c)  and  Limburg  (R.  29d) ;  (8f. 
Main-Neckar-Bahnhof,  for  Darmstadt,  Mannheim,  and  Heidelberg  (R,  30), 
for  Mayence  and  Mannheim  (p.  240),  and  for  the  quick  trains  to  Offenbach, 
Hanau,  Bebra,  Berlin,  and  Leipsic.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  town :  —  (4). 
Hanauer  Bahnhof  (PI.  K,  3),  for  Hanau,  Aschaffenburg,  and  Bavaria,  and 
for  Limburg  (R,  29d)  ;  (5).  Bahnhof  am  Fahrthor  (PI.  E,  5) ,  for  Limburg. 

—  At  Sachsenhausen :  —  (6).  Offenbacher  Bahnhof  (PI.  D,  7),  for  the 
local  trains  to  Offenbach;  (7).  Hanatj-Bebraer  -  Bahnhof,  the  first  stop- 
ping-place for  the  trains  to  Hanau,  Fulda,  Bebra,  etc.  The  hotels  do  not 
send  omnibuses  to  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  *Frankfurter  Hof  (PI.  a;  C,  D,  4),  a  large  establishment  in 
the  Kaiser-Str.,  near  the  western  stations;  R.  with  L.  &  A.,  on  the  first 
floor  from  4,  on  the  second  from  3V2,  on  the  third  from  3,  on  the  fourth 
3-372  m.,  table  d'hote  at  1  p.m.  3l/t,  at  5  p.m.  4>/2in.,  other  items  discharg- 
ed as  incurred,  'pens."'  from  10  m.;  post,  telegraph,  and  railway-offices  on 
the  premises.  *Hotel  de  Russie  (PI.  b ;  E,  3),  Zeil,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  3  no., 
B.  1  m.  40  pf.,  D.  at  1.15  p.m.  8V2,  at  5  p.m.  4  m.,  also  pension';  *  Eng- 
lish Hotel  (PI.  c;  D.4),  Rossmarkt;  Schwan  (PI.  d;  D,  3) ,  at  which  the 
peace  of  10th  Hay,  1871,  was  concluded,  Steinweg;  Romischer  Kaiser 
(PI.  e;  F,  3),  Zeil;  the  last  four  are  good  and  expensive,  charges  similar 
in  all.  H6tel  du  Nord  (PI.  f;  C,  4),  Grosse  Gallus-Str.  17,  R.  3  m.,  well 
spoken  of;  Westendhall  (PI.  g;  B,  5),  near  the  western  stations ;  H6tel 
de  l'Union  (PI.  h ;  D,  3),  Steinweg  9,  near  the  Theater-Platz.  —  *Lands- 
bebg  (PI.  i;  E,  3,  4),  near  the  Liebfrauenberg;  Hotel  Dbexel  (PI.  k; 
F,  2,  3),  Grosse  Friedberger  Strasse  20-22,  these  two  commercial :  Pabiser 
Hof  (PI.  1 ;  D,  3),  Schiller-Platz  7 ;  *Brusseler  Hof  (PI.  m ;  C,  4),  Grosse 
Gallus-Str.,  R.  2*/2-3  m.;  *H6tel  Ernst,  R.,  L.,  &  A.  from  2»/«  m.,  B. 
1  m.  20  pf. ;  Hotel  Hohenzollebn,   these  two  near  the  western  stations. 

—  Second-class :  Wubttembebgeb  Hof  (PI.  n ;  F,  4),  Fahrgasse  41 ;  H6tel 
Holland,  Grosser  Hirschgraben  2.  quiet;  Hotel  Jacobi,  Stift-Str.  6; 
Petebsburger  Hof,  Romergasse  5 ;  Augsbubgeb  Hof,  Vogelgesang  3 ;  Gbu- 
neb  Baum,  Stadt  Dabmstadt,  Bohm  (lZum  Stiff;  see  below),  Grosse  FischerT 
gasse;  H6tkl  Webneb,  at  the  Hanau  Station;  Mainh6tel,  Hainquai  96. 

—  H6tel  Garni  Zdm  Erlangeb  Hof,  Borngasse  11 ,  unpretending ;  Pen- 
sion Niederiieitmann,  Mylius-Str.  22;  Pens.  Vorster,  Linden-Str.  17, 

Restaurants.  ''Cafe'  Casino,  opposite  the  Frankfurter  Hof,  dear ;  Stein's 
Wiener  Cafi  &  Restaurant,  Kaiser-Str.  13,  ladies' room  on  the  groundfloor; 
Neue  BOrse,  Ca/6  de  Paris,  Hold,  near  the  theatre;  Bierbrauer,  Grosse 
Gallus-Str.  5;  Hdtels  du  Nord  and  Landsberg,  see  above;  Hartmann,  Zur 
Oper,  both  near  the  opera-house;  Restaurants  in  the  "Zoological  Garden 
and  Palm  Garden.  For  ladies  only:  Restauration  des  Frauenbildunfs- 
Vereins,  Tongesgasse  40  &  Holzgraben  11 ,  entrance  by  the  Zeil  37.  — 
Cafes.  Milani,  Zeil  72;  BrandVs  Wiener  Ca/d,  Zeil  56;  Stein's  Wiener  Cafi. 
see  above;  Kursaal,  in  the  pleasure-grounds  near  the  Friedberger  Tbor; 
Goldschmidt,  Allerheiligen-Str.  83.  —  Confectioners.  A.  Biltschly,  Goethe- 
Platz,  ices ;  Kiefer,  Schiller-Platz ;  De  Qiorgi,  Liebfrauen-Str.  3,  chocolate; 
Koch,  Kaiser-Str.  7;  Kurtz,  Steinweg  4;  F.  B.  Biltschly,  Kleiner  Hirschgra- 
ben 8.  —  Beer.  Bavaria,  Schiller-Platz;  Taunus,  Grosse  Bockenheimer-Str. ; 
Ca/4  Neuf,  Bibergasse  8  and  Borsenplatz  ;  Teutonia.  Paulsplatz  16;  Eyssen, 
near  the  Main -Weser- Bahnhof;  Pfeiffer,  Schafergasse.  —  Wine.  *Ph.  J. 
Bdhm  ((Zum  Stiff),  Grosse  Fischergasse  7,  near  the  Cathedral;  Vol.  Bbhm, 
Grosse  Kornmarkt  10,  with  lold  German"'  drinking-room  on  the  upper 
floor ;  Encke  ('FalstaflT),  Theaterplatz  7 ;  Prim  von  Arkadien,  Grosse  Bocken- 
heimer-Str. 9;  Schmits,  Bibergasse  5,  well  spoken  of;  Bauer,  Kaiserhof-Str.  3. 

Post  Office  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  35;  E,  8),  Zeil  52;  also  several 
branch- offices. 

Universal  Railway  and  Steamboat  Office,  in  connection  with  the  Con- 
tinent Daily  Parcels  Express,  in  the  Frankfurter  Hof. 


FRANKFURT. 


Li4rofc.tr,  JTeues .... 

.       F.5. 

Etrchcn.: 

2~B&rtk,  Frankfurter  .    . 

.  D.E.5. 

22.9eutseh-refbrmirteX. 

.  HA. 

2Jt8rse,jBte 

.    .  E.4. 

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P. 4. 

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D.3. 

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.  D.3. 

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.  E.5. 

l.Mrfemenebv   ... 

.    .  E.2. 

21.1iebfiruunlC.    .    .    . 

.  B.3. 

8.Gmsta.tUnmoh«n    .    . 

T.3. 

V&McalcdrK 

E.5. 

9.Cmeat*tuJ' 

.    .  G.3. 

29  JhxOsJL 

.  E.l*. 

Denkntaler: 

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.  F.2. 

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1.2. 

SUtburfixatenrK.  ■        • 

D.8. 

ll.tffefce 

.   .  D.3. 

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C.3. 

VI.  Gulelett-  . 

.  B.3. 

%SJtfark0talle 

.  P. 3. 

V&.&dtmbay 

JD.4f. 

E  S. 

\kJiessen- 

C.l. 

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D.3. 

•  E.4. 

ILSavMer  .    . 

37 Jtothscfrilds  Stammhaus 
ZS.SaaOtof 

.    G.S. 
•   E.5. 

IT.  Senckeribtry      .    . 
UDeutsefi-OnJUnshaus. 

E.l. 

C.6. 

i9.Senoimieryisches  Stifb 

.   E.2. 

l&.GS&i&'s  Yaterhaus .    . 

D.*. 

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20. ffrmnasiron    .... 

C.3. 

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.  D.3. 

HZ.StiuttgeriehJt 

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V&.Slpuujogt,  Gross*  ....    G.3. 

**.Thaat4r D.3. 

45 Jttum.  u: Earilr  '.rqfusf  Rdeds  E.S. 


SftUds: 

uJhank/Urtwrjrofi   .    .    .  CD.*. 

'bJbtrxuefcrJfol' E.S. 

c^ryHsckerJof D.4r. 

d-xfisfanot U.S. 

&Jl5m£seiherXaiser  .    .    .    .  E.S. 

t  JSfdtei  dt/JTord C.4. 

|.  WftrtSsidKatt B.S. 

hJfckelde  I'Uman.   ....  D.3. 

i~Zaiub&e/y E.3.4-- 

k.lT4fe£J»reze£ T.2.3. 

IJbrUerJTof B.3. 

m.Brusse?4rJIof C.4. 

IL.~WTtrtf*maeryisc7trr  Haf  .   P.  4*. 


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FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.     201 

.Cabs.  Each  vehicle  ought  to  contain  a  copy  of  the  tariff.  From  any  of 
the  stations  into  the  town,  1-2  pers.  90  pf.,  3-4  pers.  1  m.  20pf. ;  drive  within 
the  town,  50  or  70  pf. ;  returning  from  the  Palm  Garden  or  Zoological 
Garden  after  9  p.m.,  90  pf.  or  1  m.  Each  box  20  pf. ;  small  articles  free. 
By  time;  15  min.  50  or  70  pf.,  20  min.  70  or  90  pf. ,  25  min.  90  pf.  or 
1  m.,  1  hr.  1  m.  70  or  2  m.  10  pf.  The  fare  to  Sachsenhausen  is  calcu- 
lated by  time  with  40  pf.  added.  The  so-called  'Thordroschken1  have 
different  charges. 

Tramway  from  Bockenheim  past  the  Palm  Garden  and  along  the  Zeil 
to  the  Zoological  Garden  and  the  Ost-Baknhof,  with  branch-lines  to  the 
western  stations,  Sachsenhausen,  and  Bornheim.    Com  p.  the  Plan. 

Baths.  Warm  at  Greb's,  Leonhardsthor ,  and  at  AW$,  Alte  Mainzer 
Gasse.  * Baths  (Turkish,  etc.)  at  Sachsenhausen.  River  Baths  near  the 
Unter-Main-Briicke  and  the  Ober-Main-Briicke. 

Theatres.  Opera  House  (PI.  B,  C,  2;  p.  209)  and  Town  Theatre  (PI.  44; 
D,  3  ;  p.  203),  both  the  property  of  the  town,  performances  suspended  during 
August.     Victoria  Theatre,  in  the  Circus  (PI.  G,  3). 

British  Consul:  Mr.  C.  Oppenheimer,  Kliiber-Str.  7  (11-1).  —  United 
States  Consul:   Mr.  F.  Vogler. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  Weissfrauen-Kirche  (PI.  31  •,  D,  5);  Cha- 
plain, Rev.  G.  W.  Mackenzie,  Korner-Str.  13. 

Collections  and  Exhibitions:  — 
*Ariadneum  (p.  208),  daily  10-1,  in  summer  (1st  June  fo  30th  Sept.)  also 

3-5;   fee  50-75  pf. ;  Sundays  gratis. 
Exhibition  of  the  Kunstgewerbe-Verein  (p.  202),  Neue  Mainzer-Str.  35;  adm. 

50,  Wed.  20  pf. 
Goethe's  House  (p.  208),  daily  except  Sun.  afternoon,  adm.  1  m. 
*Kaisersaal,  in  the  Romer  (p.  204),  open  free  from  the  beginning  of  May 

till  the  end  of  Sept.  on  Mon. ,  Wed.,  Frid.  11-1,  and  from  October  to 

the  end  of  April  on  Mon.  and  Wed.  only ;  at  other  times  fee  (50  pf. 

to  1  m.  for  one  or  more  persons).    Visitors  ring. 
*Museum,  Historical  (p.  206),  in  the  new  Record  Office  (PI.  1),  Sun.  and 

"VYed.  10-1,  free;  other  days,  50 pf. 
*Palm  Garden  (p.  209),  adm.  1  m.,  concerts  in  the  afternoon  and  evening; 

monthly  tickets  issued  to  strangers. 
Panorama  (p.  209),  daily  9-5,  adm.  2  m..  Sun.  1  m. 
^Picture  Gallery  of  the  Kunstverein  (Pi.  32 ;  C,  3),  Junghof-Str.  8,  near  the 

Gutenberg  Monument,  admission   (9-6  o'clock)   1  m.,   for  which  the 

visitor  is  entitled  to  a  ticket  for  the  annual  December  raffle  of  modern 

pictures  and  works  of  art. 
Picture  Gallery,  St  ad  el,  see  below. 
Senckenberg  Natural  History  Museum  (p.  208);  collections  open  Wed.  2-4, 

Frid.  and  Sun.  11-1,  gratis;  on  other  days  (8-1,  3-6)  fee  75  pf. 
*Bt&del  Institution  (p.  209),  adm.  gratis,  Sun.  11-1,  Wed.  11-4,  other  days  11-2; 

engravings,  Tues.  &  Frid.  11-1  &  4-6,  Mon.  <fc  Thurs.  11-1. 
Town  Library  (p.  207),  Mon.  to  Frid.  9-1,  Wed.  also  3-5. 
* Zoological  Garden  (p.  209) ;    adm.   i  m. ;  concerts  in  the  afternoon  and 

evening ;  monthly  tickets  for  visitors.    Aquarium  50  pf.  extra. 
Information  regarding  the  hours  of  admission,  etc.,  to  the  various  places 
of  interest,  theatres,  and  concerts  is  given  gratis  at  the  Universal  Rail- 
way Office  in  the  Frankfurter  Hof  (see  above). 

Chief  Attractions.  Collections  denoted  by  asterisks.  Monuments  of 
Goethe,  Gutenberg,  and  Schiller  (pp.  202,  203);  Exchange  and  Opera-house; 
walk  through  the  Zeil  to  the  bridge  over  the  Main.  —  The  numbers  of 
the  houses  in  the  streets  running  at  right  angles  to  the  Main  are  painted 
on  a  blue,  those  in  the  streets  parallel  with  the  Main  on  a  red  ground. 

Frankfort  on  the  Main  (300  ft.  1,  with  137,600  inhab.  (in- 
cluding a  garrison  of  1300  soldiers),  formerly  a  free  town  of  the 
Empire ,  and  down  to  1866  one  of  the  free  towns  of  the  German 
Confederation  and  the  seat  of  the  Diet ,  now  belongs  to  Prussia. 
Old  watch-towers  in  the  vicinity  indicate  its  ancient  extent.    The 


202     Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  History. 

city  lies  in  a  spacious  plain  bounded  by  mountains,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  navigable  Main.  On  the  left  bank  of  the  river  lies 
Sachsenkausen,  a  suburb  connected  with  Frankfort  by  four  stone 
bridges,  and  by  an  iron  suspension-bridge.  In  a  commercial  and 
particularly  a  financial  point  of  view ,  Frankfort  is  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  in  Germany. 

The  old  part  of  the  town  consists  of  narrow  and  unattractive 
streets,  but  the  Zeil,  the  Neue  Mainzer-Str. ,  Kaiser-Str.,  Frieden- 
Str.,  etc.,  boast  of  many  handsome  modern  buildings.  The  town 
is  surrounded  by  lAnlagen\  or  public  grounds,  where  many  taste- 
fully-built residences  are  situated.  The  air  of  wealth  and  impor- 
tance which  pervades  the  city  affords  an  indication  of  the  success 
and  extent  of  its  commercial  relations. 

Frankfort  dates  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  In  794  that  emperor 
held  a  convocation  of  bishops  and  dignitaries  of  the  empire  in  the  royal 
residence  ( Franconofurd*  (ford  of  the  Franks).  After  the  erection  of  a 
new  palace  (now  the  Saalhof)  by  Louis  the  Pious  in  822  the  town  soon 
reached  such  a  high  degree  of  prosperity,  that  at  the  time  of  the  death 
of  Louis  the  German  (876)  it  was  already  looked  upon  as  the  capital  of 
the  East  Franconian  Empire.  Under  this  monarch,  who  frequently 
resided  here,  the  city  was  considerably  enlarged.  During  the  reign  of 
Lewis  the  Bavarian,  who  conferred  on  the  town  the  freedom  of  the 
empire  and  many  other  privileges,  Frankfort  was  again  much  extended 
and  almost  reached  the  present  limits  of  the  inner  city.  One  of  the  most 
important  of  the  privileges  which  it  received  was  the  confirmation  of 
the  Easter  Fair  in  1330;  the  Autumn  Fair  had  been  sanctioned  by 
Frederick  II.  as  early  as  1240.  To  these  fairs  the  town  owed  the  im- 
portance it  enjoyed  during  the  16th  and  17th  cent,  as  a  centre  of  domestic 
and  foreign  trade.  From  the  time  of  Frederick  Barbarossa  (1162)  onwards 
most  of  the  German  emperors  were  chosen  at  Frankfort,  and  in  1360  it 
was  recognised  by  the  Golden  Bull  of  Charles  IV.  (p.  206)  as  the  perma- 
nent seat  of  the  elections.  On  the  dissolution  of  the  Empire  in  1806, 
Frankfort,  with  Aschaffenburg ,  Hanau,  Fulda,  and  Wetzlar,  was  made 
over  as  a  Grand-duchy  to  Carl  von  Dalberg,  Primate  of  the  Rhenish  Con- 
federation ,  and  previously  Archbishop  of  Hayence.  From  1814  to  1866  it 
was  one  of  the  four  free  cities  of  the  German  Confederation,  and  in  1866 
it  was  taken  by  the  Prussians. 

New  and  imposing  buildings  are  rapidly  springing  up  near  the 
railway-stations  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The  principal  approach 
to  the  town  is  formed  by  the  handsome  *Kaiser-Strasse  (PI.  O, 
5,  4),  which  leads  directly  to  the  Rossmarkt.  The  first  street  run- 
ning at  right-angles  to  it  is  the  Neue  Mainzer  Strasse,  in  which, 
on  the  left  (No.  35),  is  the  old  building  of  the  Stadel  Institution 
(p.  209),  now  containing  the  art-industrial  exhibition  of  the  Mit- 
telrheiniscke  Kunstgewerbe-Verein  (adm.,  see  p.  201). 

The  Rossmakkt  (PL  D,  4),  at  the  end  of  the  Kaiser-Str.,  the 
largest  Platz  in  the  city,  is  an  open  space  of  irregular  shape ,  in 
the  W.  half  of  which  rises  the  "Monument  of  Gutenberg  (PI.  13), 
erected  in  1858,  a  fine  group  on  a  large  sandstone  pedestal,  design- 
ed by  Ed.  v.  d.  Launitz.  The  central  figure  with  the  types  in  the 
left  hand  is  Gutenberg,  on  his  right  Fust,  on  his  left  Schoffer.  On 
the  frieze  are  portrait-heads  of  fourteen  celebrated  printers,  with 
Caxton  among  them.   In  the  four  niches  beneath  are  the  arms  of 


Monument  of  Ootthe.    FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.     203 

the  four  towns  where  printing  was  first  practised,  Mayence,  Frank- 
fort, Venice,  and  Strassburg.  Round  the  base  are  figures  represent- 
ing Theology,  Poetry,  Natural  Science,  and  Industry. 

The  Goethe-Platz,  which  adjoins  the  Rossmarkt  on  the  N.,  is 
embellished  with  Schwanthaler's  *  Monument  of  Goethe  (Pi.  11; 

D,  3),  erected  in  1844.  The  reliefs  on  the  pedestal  in  front  are 
allegorical ;  on  the  sides  are  figures  from  Goethe's  poems. 

In  the  Theater  -Platz  (PI.  D,  3)  rises  the  Theatre  (PI.  44), 
erected  in  1782.  Behind  the  theatre  stands  a  building  for  contain- 
ing the  theatrical  scenery  and  other  properties,  adjoining  which  is 
the  Keue  Bdrse,  or  Exchange  (PI.  4;  D,  3),  built  by  Burnitz, 
with  a  handsome  Renaissance  hall  (business  -  hours  12-2).  The 
Goethe-Strasse,  to  the  W.,  contains  the  new  Qewerbekasse,  or  Ar- 
tizans'  Savings  Bank,  and  the  Elisabethenschule. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Rossmarkt,  Junghofstrasse  8 ,  is  the  Kuntst- 
verein(Vl.  32;  p.  201),  with  its  picture-gallery.  Nob.  19,  20  in 
the  same  street  form  the  Saalbau  (PI.  9),  in  the  handsome  rooms  of 
which  the  concerts  of  the  Museums-Gesellschaft  take  place  weekly 
in  winter  (orchestral  and  chamber  music  alternately). 

To  the  S.  of  the  Rossmarkt,  Grosser  Hirschgraben23,  is  the  house 
in  which  Goethe  was  born  (Pi.  19;  adm.,  see  p.  201),  with  an 
inscription  recording  that  event  (28th  August,  1749).  The  house, 
where  some  of  the  interesting  adventures  mentioned  in  his  'Fiction 
and  Truth'  took  place,  was  purchased  by  the  'Deutsche  Hoch$tifl?  in 
1863,  and  has  been  restored.  It  contains  some  busts  and  portraits 
of  Goethe,  a  few  works  of  art,  and  various  curiosities. 

Adjoining  the  Rossmarkt  on  the  N.E.  side  is  the  Schillbr- 
Platz  (PI.  D,  3),  with  the  Hawptwache  or  guard-house  (PI.  21), 
and  a  Statue  of  Schiller  in  bronze  (PI.  16),  from  a  model  by  Diel- 
mann,  erected  in  1863.  To  the  right  rises  the  Katharinenkirche 
(PI.  25),  built  in  1680 ,  the  tower  of  which  affords  a  good  survey 
of  the  city. 

We  now  enter  the  *Zeil  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  a  broad  and  handsome 
street,  the  busiest  in  Frankfort,  consisting  chiefly  of  attractive  shops. 

The  Liebfrauen  -  Strasse ,  the  first  cross -street  on  the  right, 
leads  across  the  Liebfrauenberg  towards  the  Romerberg.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Liebfrauenkirche  (PI.  27)  contains  several  old 
tombstones.  The  Liebfrauen  -  Str.  is  continued  by  the  Neue 
Krame,  in  which ,  on  the  right ,  stands  the  old  Exchange  (PI.  3 ; 

E,  4),  erected  in  1844;  the  principal  facade  is  turned  towards 
the  Pauls-Platz.  —  In  the  Pauls-Platz,  opposite  the  Exchange, 
rises  the  Church  of  St.  PawZ  (PI.  29;  E,  41,  a  circular  building 
completed  in  1833.  It  was  used  in  1848-49  for  the  meetings  of 
the  'German  National  Assembly  for  remodelling  the  Constitution', 
but  was  again  fitted  up  as  a  place  of  worship  in  1852.  (Bell  for 
the  sacristan  at  the  right  side  of  the  entrance.) 

The  *R5mer  (PI.  36 ;  E,4),  the  most  Interesting  edifice  at  Frank- 


204     Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  Romer. 

fort  in  a  historical  point  of  view,  is  a  late-Gothic  structure,  erect- 
ed as  a  town-hall  by  the  architect  Friedrich  Konigshofen  about  the 
year- 1406,  and  afterwards  altered  at  various  times.  The  principal 
facade,  with  its  three  lofty  gahles  and  broad  pointed  doorways,  looks 
towards  the  Romerberg.  The  five  windows  in  the  centre  belong  to 
the  Kaisersaal.  The  back  of  the  building,  in  the  Pauls-Platz,  dates  . 
from  1602  and  1731. 

Entering  the  arcades  of  the  ground-floor  from  the  Romerberg,  we 
ascend  a  handsome  stair  to  the  right,  built  in  1740,  to  the  first  floor,  on 
which  is  situated  the  — 

*Kai»ersaal  (adm.  see  p.  201),  where  the  new  emperor  dined  with 
the  electors  and  showed  himself  from  the  balcony  to  the  people  assembled 
on  the  Romerberg.  The  hall ,  which  is  covered  with  tunnel-vaulting  in 
wood,  was  restored  in  1843  and  embellished  with  Portrait*  of  the  Emperors, 
presented  by  German  princes,  art-associations,  and  private  individuals. 
The  following  are  among  the  finest.  On  the  central  wall,  opposite 
the  windows,  and  larger  than  the  others ,  Charlemagne  (768-814)  by  Ph. 
Yeit;  then,  beginning  at  the  corner  diagonally  opposite  the  entrance, 
Conrad  I.  (911-918),  by  Ballenberger ;  Otho  I.,  the  Great  (936-973),  by 
Veii;  Otho  III.  (983-1002),  by  Settegatt;  Conrad  II.  (1024-1039),  by  Clasen; 
Henry  III.  (1039-1056),  by  Stilke;  Henry  V.  (1106-1125),  by  Kiederich; 
Lothaire  (1125-1138),  by  Bendemann;  Frederick  I.,  Barbarossa  (1152-1190), 
by  Letting,  a  figure  full  of  majesty  and  repose,  probably  the  best  of  the 
series-,  Philip  of  Swabia  (1198-120S),  by  Rethel;  Frederick  II.  (1215-1250), 
by  Veil;  Adolph  of  Nassau  (1292-1298),  by  Miicke;  Albert  I.  (1298-1308),  by 
Steinle;  Henry  VII.,  of  Luxembourg  (1303-1314),  by  Veit;  Frederick  III. 
(1440-1493),  by  Jul.  Hilbner;  Maximilian  I.  (1493-1519),  Charles  V.  (1519- 
1556),  and  Maximilian  II.  (1564-1576),  by  Rethel;  Rudolph  II.  (1576-1612),  bv 
Hemerlein ;  Ferdinand  III.  (1637-1658) ,  by  Steinle.  —  We  next  enter  the  — 

Wahlximmer  (election-room),  decorated  in  red,  where  the  electors 
met  to  deliberate  on  the  choice  of  an  emperor,  and  which  has  been  left 
in  its  original  condition.    It  contains  a  portrait  of  Emp.  Leopold  II. 

The  Romerberg  (PI.  E,4),  or  market-place  in  front  of  the  Romer, 
which  down  to  the  end  of  last  century  no  Jew  was  permitted  to  enter 
(comp.  p.  207),  was  the  scene  of  those  public  rejoicings  after  the 
election  of  an  emperor  which  Goethe  so  graphically  describes  in  his 
autobiography.  The  Justitia  Fountain,  designed  by  Northeim ,  is 
to  be  erected  in  the  centre  of  the  market-place.  The  southernmost 
of  the  three  gables  of  the  Romer  belongs  to  the  Haus  Limpurg, 
which  possesses  a  handsome  vaulted  gateway  (at  the  side)  and  an 
imposing  winding  -  staircase  of  the  year  1607  (visible  from  the 
court).  At  the  corner  of  the  Romerberg  and  of  the  Wedelgasse  is 
the  Salzhaus,  the  ground-floor  of  which  is  provided  with  rustica  pil- 
lars and  handsome  lattice- windows,  while  the  upper  story  shows 
traces  of  rich  painting.  The  narrow  gable-sides  are  carved  entirely 
of  wood.  —  The  S.  side  of  the  Romerberg  is  bounded  by  the 
Nicolaikirche  (PI.  28),  an  elegant  church  in  the  early-Gothic  style 
of  the  13th  cent.,  with  one  aisle  only  (N.),  and  a  massive  tower 
adjoining  the  choir.  It  was  restored  in  1847.  Altar-piece,  a  Resur- 
rection by  Rethel. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Romerberg  is  the  old  Fahrthor,  to  the 
left  of  which  rises  the  Rententhurm,  erected  in  1455.  On  the  side 
of  the  tower  next  the  Main  Is  maTked  the  height  attained  by  an 


Saalhof.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.     205 

inundation.  Opposite  is  an  iron  Suspension  Bridge,  constructed  in 
1869,  on  the  approach  to  which  are  also  marked  exceptional  heights 
reached  by  the  river. 

Adjoining  theRententhurm,  farther  up  the  river,  rises  the  facade 
of  the  Saalhof  (PI.  38;  E,  5),  built  in  1717,  and  occupying  the 
site  of  an  imperial  palace  of  that  name,  which  was  erected  by  Louis 
the  Pious  in  822.  The  palace  was  mortgaged  by  the  emperors  in 
the  14th  cent. ,  and  was  frequently  altered ,  particularly  in  the 
18th  and  19th  centuries,  so  that  no  external  trace  of  the  original 
edifice  now  remains.  The  old  chapel  in  the  tower  (now  a  private 
room,  visible  from  the  side  next  the  river)  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  13th  cent. ,  and  once  served  as  a  receptacle  for  the  im- 
perial jewels.  The  building  is  now  occupied  by  the  .Conservatorium 
of  Music,  which  numbers  among  its  teachers  Madame  Clara  Schu- 
mann, Herr  Raff,  and  other  well-known  musicians. 

On  the  Main,  a  little  lower  down,  is  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  of  St.  Leonhard  (PI.  26 ;  £,  5),  begun  in  1217,  with  a  late- 
Gothic  choir  built  by  Meister  Henchin  in  1434,  the  whole  com- 
pleted in  1507,  and  restored  in  1808.  The  church  is  supposed  to 
occupy  the  spot  on  which  the  palace  of  Charlemagne  stood  before 
the  Saalhof  was  founded  by  Louis  the  Pious,  On  the  N.  tower  is 
seen  the  imperial  eagle ,  said  to  have  been  bestowed  by  Lewis  the 
Bavarian  on  the  abbey  in  acknowledgment  of  services  rendered  to 
him  in  defiance  of  the  papal  ban.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  in 
the  interior  (N.  aisle)  are  the  two  Romanesque  portals,  and  the 
vaulting  with  the  detached  girders  in  the  chapel  to  the  left ;  a  Last 
Supper  by  Holbein  the  Elder ;  and  finely-coloured  glass  windows 
of  the  late-Gothic  period. 

The  street  called  the  Markt  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  leading  from  the 
Roinerberg  towards  the  £.  to  the  cathedral,  contains  several  hand- 
some old  dwelling-houses.  No.  44,  on  the  left,  known  as  the  Stei- 
nerne  Haus,  with  round-arch  frieze,  corner-tuTrets,  and  handsome- 
ly vaulted  gateway,  dates  from  the  15th  cent. ;  nearly  opposite, 
next  the  Rdmerberg,  is  the  Haus  zum  Kleinen  Engel,  half  Gothic, 
half  Renaissance,  of  1562.'  In  the  court  of  No.  30  (to  the  left) 
are  two  galleries  bearing  friezes  of  the  16th  cent.,  representing  the 
Fall  and  the  Prodigal  Son.  No.  5,  on  the  right,  called  the  Ooldene 
Waagey  is  embellished  with  rich  rustica-work  and  fine  lattice- 
windows. 

The  Cathedral  (St.  Bartliolomew ,  Rom.  Cath.;  PI.  23;  F,  4), 
a  Gothic  edifice ,  was  founded  in  1238 ;  the  choir  was  erected  in 
1315-18.  The  church  was  seriously  injured  by  a  fire  in  August 
1867,  but  has  since  been  restored  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  architect Denzinger.  On  that  occasion  the  tower,  left  unfinished 
in  1514,  and  now  312ft.  high,  was  completed  from  the  early  plans. 

Interior.  Access  to  the  church  is  obtained  by  the  "N.  portal  (best  time, 
10-4).  By  the  wall,  to  the  right,  are  tombstones  of  the  Holzhausen  and 
Sachsenhausen   families,    of  the  14th  and  15th  centuries.     The  chapel  ad- 


206     Route  28,  FRANKFORT.  Cathedral. 

joining  the  choir  on  the  left  contains  a  group  of  the  Death  of  Mary, 
sculptured  in  stone  in  the  14th  century.  —  At  the  high-altar  the  coro- 
nation of  the  emperors  used  to  be  solemnised  by  the  Elector  of  Mayence. 
To  the  right  is  the  Wahlkapelle  (election-chapel),  where  the  actual  election 
of  the  emperors  took  place \  at  the  entrance  stands  the  beautiful  monument 
of  the  German  king  Giinther  von  Schwarzburg,  who  died  in  1349  at  Frank- 
fort, where  he  had  taken  refuge  from  his  opponent  Charles  IV.  The  armorial 
bearings  around  it  belong  to  the  families  who  erected  the  monument. 
The  original  inscription  is  in  old  German,  the  new  one  in  Lati  .  Most 
of  the  new  stained-glass  windows  were  executed  from  cartoons  by  Steinle. 
Many  of  them,  and  also  a  "Painting  by  Van  Dyck  (in  the  choir),  were 
presented  by  the  Brentano  family.  The  old  altar-piece,  a  Virgin  enthroned,, 
by  Fe*7,  is  now  also  in  the  choir.  —  In  the  chapel  adjoining  the  choir 
on  the  right  is  a  Sepulchre  with  the  sleeping  watchmen  beneath,  of  the 
15th  century;  also  a  fine  Tabernacle  of  the  same  period.  To  the  right 
of  the  S.  portal  is  the  tomb  of  Andreas  Hirde,  with  a  relief  representing 
the  Mocking  of  Christ  (1518). 

On  the  outside  of  the  N.  wall  of  the  choir  is  a  large  Crucifixion, 
executed  in  sandstone  in  the  style  of  Diirer. 

At  No.  4  In  the  Domplatz,  to  the  £.  of  the  cathedral,  is  a  Statue 
of  Lathery  commemorating  a  sermon  said  to  have  been  delivered 
here  by  the  Reformer  when  on  his  way  to  the  Diet  of  Worms. 

To  the  S.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  new  bnilding  for  preserving 
the  Municipal  Archives  (PI.  1 ;  F,  5) ,  completed  in  1878  from 
designs  by  Denzinger.  The  ground -floor  contains  a  "Historical, 
Museum  (adm.,  see  p.  201),  formed  of  the  combined  collections  of 
the  municipality  and  the  Antiquarian  Society. 

The  Ante-Room  contains  armour,  weapons  and  architectural  fragments. 
—  Room  I.  contains  pictures  from  suppressed  Frankfort  monasteries.  In  the 
first  cabinet,  on  the  left :  Pieta,  a  large  group  of  the  Cologne  school ;  op- 
posite, C.  Viol  (?),  Altar-piece;  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  *  Holbein  the 
Elder,  Genealogy  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Dominicans.  In  the  second  cabinet, 
to  the  left :  Old  copy,  by  Johst  Barrich  of  Nuremberg,  of  Dilrer^s  celebrated 
Assumption,  which  was  painted  in  1509  for  Jacob  Heller  of  Frankfort, 
purchased  in  1615  by  Elector  Maximilian  of  Bavaria ,  and  destroyed  by 
fire  at  Munich  in  1674 ;  the  wings  are  the  original  productions  of  Dtirer's 
studio.  On  the  right,  two  works  in  grisaille  by  Math.  Oerung.  In  the  3rd 
Cab. :  Two  animal-paintings  by  /.  H.  and  /.  M.  Roo$;  Ascension,  by  M. 
Merian  the  Younger.  —  Boom  II.  contains  the  'Prehn  Collection'  of  cabinet- 
works; to  the  right  of  the  window,  *Meister  Btephan  of  Cologne  (?), 
Virgin  in  a  garden;  below,  Uffenbach  (Elsheimer's  teacher),  The  Magi. 
Among  the  Dutch  paintings  in  the  adjoining  cabinet,  the  best  are  a 
"Physician  by  Teniers  and  two  Church  Interiors  by  Van  Vliet.  Another 
cabinet  contains  a  "Panorama  of  Frankfort  in  1812,  by  Morgenstem  (pen- 
and-ink  sketch).  The  last  cabinet  is  devoted  to  modern  works :  on  the 
right,  Peter  Corneliue,  Holy  Family ;  several  fine  landscapes.  —  The  Anti- 
quaki an  Collection,  including  prehistoric,  Roman,  and  Frankiah  anti- 
quities, is  also  interesting.  The  Doll's  House  of  the  18th  cent,  is  curious*. 
Among  the  old  documents  is  the  'Golden  Buir  of  1356  (see  p.  202).  The 
Egyptian  Collection  was  formed  by  Dr.  Riippell.  There  is  also  an  Ethno- 
graphical Collection. 

Adjacent  is  the  old  lieinwandhaus ,  or  Drapers'  Hall,  dating 
from  the  14th  cent.,  which  has  recently  been  provided  with  turrets 
and  pinnacles  and  is  used  for  municipal  offices. 

In  the  Fahrgasse,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  cathedral,  is  the  Furateneck 
(No.  17),  a  late- Gothic  house,  with  a  room  on  the  first  floor  with 
late- Renaissance  decoration  (visitors  admitted).  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
Fahrgasse  is  the  handsome  old  Bridge  over  the  Main,  constructed 


Town  Library.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.     207 

in  1342.  The  middle  of  the  bridge  is  embellished  with  a  Statue 
of  Charlemagne  (PL  15),  erected  in  1843.  Near  it  is  an  old  iron 
cross,  with  a  still  earlier  figure  of  Christ.  The  presence  of  the  cock 
which  surmounts  it  is  explained  by  the  tradition  ,  that  a  cock  be- 
came the  victim  of  a  vow  made  by  the  architect ,  to  sacrifice  to  the 
devil  the  first  living  being  which  crossed  the  bridge. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  Main  lies  the  suburb  of  Sachsenhausen 
(p.  202),  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Charlemagne,  and  assigned 
by  him  as  a  residence  to  the  conquered  Saxons ,  from  whom  it 
derives  its  name.  To  the  left,  on  the  Main,  is  the  Deutsch-Ordens- 
haus  (PI.  18 ;  G,  6),  or  House  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  erected  in 
1709 ,  and  now  a  Roman  Catholic  Mission  House.  To  the  right  is 
the  Church  of  the  Magi  (PI.  F,  6;  Prot.),  rebuilt  from  the  designs 
of  Denzinger. 

The  quay  flanked  with  lofty  houses ,  which  extends  along  the  - 
right  bank  of  the  river,  is  called  the  Schone  Aussicht  (PI.  6,  H,  5), 
and  is  traversed  by  the  junction-railway.  At  the  upper  end  of  it, 
where  the  Obtr-Main  Bridge,  completed  in  1878,  crosses  the  river, 
is  situated  the  — 

Town  Library  (PI.  41,  H  5 ;  adm.  see  p.  201) ,  built  by  Hess 
in  1825,  with  a  conspicuous  Corinthian  portico.  At  the  foot  of 
the  staircase  is  a  marble  *Statue  of  Goethe,  in  a  sitting  posture, 
by  P.  Marchesi  (1838),  besides  which  there  are  numerous  busts  in 
marble  of  Frankfort  celebrities.  The  library  contains  150,000  vol- 
umes. 

Behind  the  Library,  Lange-Str.  4,  is  the  Hospital  zum  Heiligen 
Geist,  a  model  institution  of  its  kind.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  the 
Rechnei-  Qraben,  opposite  which  is  the  Rechneigraben-Strasse 
leading  to  the  Judenmarkt.  At  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  market 
diverges  the  old  and  once  picturesque  Judbngassb  (PL  G,  4),  most 
of  the  dingy  houses  in  which  have  been  of  late  removed. 

Down  to  the  regime  of  the  Prince  Primate  (p.  202)  in  1806,  the  Juden- 
gasse,  or  Jews'*  Street,  was  closed  every  evening,  and  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  throughout  the  whole  day,  with  lock  and  key,  and  no  Jew  might 
venture  into  any  part  of  the  town  under  a  heavy  penalty.  In  spite  of 
this  tyranny,  many  denizens  of  these  squalid  purlieus  flourished,  and  among 
them  the  now  enormously  wealthy  Rothschild  family,  who  originally  resid- 
ed at  No.  148.  Their  offices  are  now  in  the  corner-house,  Fahrgasse  146 
and  Bornheimer-Str.  16. 

At  the  end  of  the  Judengasse  stands  the  Synagogue  (PL  43 ; 
G,  3),  erected  by  Kaiser  in  1855-60  in  the  Oriental  style,  with  a 
gilded  dome  and  a  handsome  portal.  The  Bornheimer  -  Strasse 
leads  hence,  intersecting  the  Fahrgasse ,  to  the  new  Market  Hall 
(PL  F,  3),  an  iron  and  glass  structure,  416  ft.  long  and  111ft. 
broad.    From  the  Market  we  regain  the  Zeil. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Constabler-  Wache  diverges  the  Schafer- 
gasse ,  in  which  is  situated  the  old  Peter's  Cemetery  (PL  F,  2) 
containing  the  tombstone  of  Ooethe's  mother  (d.  1808),  to  the  right 
on  entering,  renewed  in  1849,  and  several  old  monuments.    In  the 


208    Route  28.  FRANKFORT.      Hessian  Monument. 

centre  is  the  War  Monument ,  erected  in  1878  to  the  memory  of 
the  natives  of  Frankfort  who  fell  in  the  war  of  1870-71,  cast  in 
bronze  from  a  model  by  Eekhard. 

The  flight  of  steps  at  the  N.  end  of  the  cemetery  ascends  to  the 
Bleich-Strasse,  in  which,  a  littie  to  the  W.,  is  the  Senckenberg' 
Institution  (PI.  39;  adm.  see  p.  201),  founded  in  1763  by  Jo- 
hann  Christian  Senckenberg,  a  physician  of  Frankfort.  It  com- 
prises a  fine  Natural  History  Collection,  a  Library,  a  Botanic  Garden, 
an  Anatomical  Theatre,  and  a  Hospital. 

Adjacent,  at  the  end  of  the  Grossb  Eschbnhbimbb  Strassb, 
rises  the  circular  Eschenheimer  Thunn  (PI.  £,  2),  erected  in 
1400-27  on  the  site  of  a  square  tower  of  1346,  the  only  one  of  the 
ancient  tower-gateways  of  the  city  now  extant.  The  large  house  at 
the  corner  of  the  Stifts-Strasse  and  the  Eschenheimer-Str.  (No.  74), 
the  residence  of  the  Archduke  John  in  1848-49,  when  'Regent  of 
the  Empire',  now  belongs  to  the  Biirgerverein,  or  citizens"  club 
(PI.  7).  On  the  same  side,  No.  26,  is  the  Palace  of  the  Prince  of 
Thurn  and  Taxis  (PI.  45),  built  in  1740,  which  contained  the 
assembly-hall  of  the  German  Diet  down  to  1866. 

Around  the  city,  with  the  exception  of  the  side  next  the  Main, 
extend  pleasant,  park-like  *Anlagen,  or  promenades,  adorned  with 
several  monuments,  including  those  of  the  patriotic  Bethmann 
(PI.  10),  who  died  in  1826,  Guiollet  (PI.  12),  who  laid  out  the 
promenades,  Senckenberg  (PI.  17),  the  founder  of  the  hospital, 
Borne,  the  poet,  and  Kirchner,  the  historian. 

The  Hessian  Monument  (PI.  14 ;  G,  1),  outside  the  Friedberger 
Thor,  was  erected  by  Frederick  William  II.  of  Prussia  to  the  Hes- 
sians who  fell  on  2nd  Dec,  1792,  in  the  attack  on  Frankfort,  then 
occupied  by  the  French  under  General  Gustine.  It  consists  of 
masses  of  rock,  bearing  a  pillar  surmounted  by  a  helmet,  sword, 
and  battering-ram. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Friedberg  road  is  the  Ariadnenm, 
or  Bethmanh's  Museum  (PI.  G,  1 ;  adm.  seep.  201),  a  circular  build- 
ing containing  the  exquisite  group  of  *  Ariadne  on  the  panther,  the 
master-piece  of  Dannecker  (d.  1841),  a  sculptor  of  Stuttgart,  who 
is  likewise  famous  for  his  bust  of  Schiller.  This  work  was  purchased 
for  20,000  fl.    The  building  also  contains  a  few  casts. 

At  the  N.  corner  of  the  Eschenheimer  Aulage  (PI.  F,  1)  a 
finger-post  indicates  the  way  by  the  Eschenheimer  Strasse  (in  which 
No.  57,  on  the  left,  in  the  Greek  style,  contains  VannVs  exhibition 
of  casts)  to  the  (1  M.)  "Cemetery,  which  is  entered  by  a  Doric 
colonnade  and  contains   a  number  of  well-executed  monuments. 

The  Arcades  on  the  E.  side  contain  the  vaults  of  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal families  of  Frankfort.  Nearly  in  the  middle  of  them  is  a  relief  by 
Pradier  of  Geneva.  The  last  vault  to  the  left,  belonging  to  the  v.  Beth- 
mann family,  contains  some  admirable  "^Reliefs  by  Thorvaldsen  to  the 
memory  of  a  Hr.  v.  Bethmann  Who  died  at  Florence  (1813)  of  an  illness 
caused  by  his  exertions  on  the  .occasion  .of  a  fire  at  Baden  near  Vienna. 
The  hurried  presentation   of  an  oak-wreath    to    the    dying   man    in   the 


StSdel  Gallery.  FRANKFORT.  28.  Route.     209 

larger  relief  is  an  allusion  to  a  letter  of  thanks  written  to  him  by  the 
Emperor  of  Austria.  The  vault  is  closed.  Custodian  (60  pf.)  at  the 
entrance  to  the  cemetery  (right). 

On  the  wall,  immediately  adjoining  this  vault,  is  a  monument  to  Fran 
v.  Bethmann-Holltoeg,  with  a  relief  in  marble  of  the  angel  announcing  the 
Resurrection  to  the  women,  by  Launitz.  Opposite  is  a  kneeling  angel, 
also  by  Launits. 

On  the  K.  side  rises  the  Mausoleum  of  Elector  William  II.  of  Hessen 
(d.  1847)  by  Bessemer,  containing  a  crucifix  in  marble  by  Zwtrger,  and  two 
marble  sarcophagi  with  life-size  figures  of  the  prince  and  his  wife  by 
Launiix.  Two  other  monuments  near  it  are  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers 
and  insurgents  who  fell  in  1848.  To  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  is  the 
tomb  of  the  philosopher  Schopenhauer  (d.  1860). 

Immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  new  cemetery  is  the  Jewish  Burial 
Ground,  open  daily  except  Saturdays.  On  the  K.  side  is  a  large  marble 
sarcophagus  with  Hebrew  inscriptions,  by  Launitt,  to  the  memory  of  Carl 
M.  v.  Rothschild  (d.  1866). 

Outside  the  Eschenheimer  Thor,  near  the  Eschenheim  road, 
is  the  Jrrenanstalt  or  lunatic  asylum,  a  large  Gothic  edifice.  To  the 
right,  nearer  the  town,  is  an  Institute  of  Deaconesses. 

Near  the  Bockenheimer  Thor  (Pi.  B,  C,  3),  rises  the  magnificent 
new  "Opera  House,  designed  by  Lueae  (d.  1877),  and  opened  in 
1880.  The  sculptures  in  the  pediment  in  front  are  by  Kaupert, 
those  at  the  hack  by  Bumpfr  both  of  Frankfort.  Most  of  the  mural 
paintings  in  the  interior  were  executed  from  cartoons  by  Steinle ; 
the  drop-scene,  representing  the  Prologue  to  Faust,  Is  hy  Beer  and 
Oratz. 

On  a  height  to  the  right  of  the  Bockenheimer  Landstrasse,  1M. 
from  the  town,  is  situated  the  "Palm  Garden ,  a  pleasant  park  con- 
veniently reached  hy  tramway,  containing  extensive  hot-houses. 
Concerts  every  afternoon  and  evening,  adm.  1  m.  The  grounds  In- 
clude a  skating-rink  (adm.  50  pf.)  and  a  restaurant. 

In  the  Cornelius-Strasse,  to  the  left  of  the  Bockenheim  road,  is 
a  fine  ^Panorama  of  the  Battle  of  Sedan,  nearly  400  ft.  in  circum- 
ference and  42  ft.  high ,  painted  hy  Prof.  L.  Braun  of  Munich. 
Adm.,  see  p.  201. 

The  'Zoological  Garden  (PI.  K,  2, 3 ;  'Restaurant),  with  its  ex- 
tensive grounds,  is  situated  on  the  Pflngstweide,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  town.  The  tower  commands  a  fine  'View.  In  the  ruin  is  a 
salt-water  aquarium  (50  pf.).  Admission ,  see  p.  201 ;  tramway, 
p.  201 ;  comp.  Plan,  p.  200. 

The  *Stadel  Art-Institute  (PI.  40;  C,  7),  an  establishment  to 
which  Frankfort  owes  its  high  rank  in  the  artistic  world,  was 
founded  hy  Joh.  Fred.  Stadel  (d.  1816),  a  citizen  of  Frankfort, 
who  bequeathed  his  pictures  and  engravings,  his  houses,  and 
l,200,000fl.  (100,0001.)  to  the  town,  in  order  to  found  a  School 
of  Art  (now  attended  by  about  200  students).  The  former  directors 
were  Veit  and  Passavant  (d.  1861);  the  present  director  is  Herr 
Steinle.  The  collection  consists  of  pictures,  engravings,  drawings 
by  eminent  masters,  and  numerous  casts.'  The  handsome  building 
now  occupied  by  the  collections,  situated  on  the  Schaumain-Quai  at 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  14 


210     Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  Stadel  GaU fry. 

Sachsenbansen,  was  erected  with  the  surplus  funds  of  the  institu- 
tion from  the  designs  of  Oscar  Sommer,  and  was  opened  in  1878. 
It  consists  of  a  large  central  building  in  the  Italian  Renaissance 
style,  with  a  fine  portal  approached  by  a  broad  flight  of  steps ,  a 
dome,  and  two  projecting  wings.  The  material  is  gray  sandstone. 
The  six  large  reliefs  above  the  round -arched  windows  are  very 
effective.    Admission,  see  p.  201 ;  catalogue  1  m. 

Ground  Floor.  The  entrance  opens  on  an  octagonal  Ante-Chamber, 
which  contains  casts  from  the  tomb  of  Maximilian  I.  at  Innsbruck.  — 
The  rooms  to  the  left  of  this  are  devoted  to  the  Library  and  the  collec- 
tions of  Drawing*  and  Engraving* ;  the  latter  collection,  containing  80,000 
specimens,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Germany.  —  The  rooms  on  the  right 
contain  Casts  of  ancient,  mediseval,  and  Renaissance  sculptures.  In  the 
first  room  there  is  also  a  "Terracotta  Altar  by  Giorgio  Andreoli  of  Gubbio 
(1511),  in  the  last  room ,  a  "'Shield  of  Hercules  in  bronze,  modelled  by 
L.  von  Bchwanthaler  from  Hesiod's  description. 

Upper  Floor.  From  the  staircase  we  first  enter  an  Ante-Rook  con- 
taining a  bust  of  J.  Fr.  Stadel,  the  founder  of  the  Institute,  by  Zwerger, 
and  a  few  ancient  sculptures.    The  other  rooms  are  occupied  by  the  — 

"Picture  Gallery,  the  most  important  municipal  collection  in  Germany. 
The  Eably  Italian  Schools  are  somewhat  poorly  represented,  but  there 
are  a  number  of  good  works  by  the  Venetian  masters.  The  best  of  these  is 
the  Four  Fathers  of  the  Church  by  Moretto  {da  Brescia,  properly  Alossan- 
dro  Bonvicino,  d.  1560)-  The  St.  Sebastian  attributed  to  Antonello  da 
Messina  is  probably  a  copy  of  the  picture  at  Berlin.  —  A  most  attractive 
work,  notwithstanding  its  insignificant  site,  is  the  Cardinal  Borgia  of 
Velazquez,  finely  coloured  and  admirably  individualised.  —  Among  the 
finest  works  of  the  Eably  Flemish  School  of  the  16th  cent,  are  a  Ma- 
donna by  John  van  Eyck,  the  Tiburtine  Sibyl  showing  the  Emperor 
Augustus  a  vision  of  the  Virgin  in  Heaven  by  Dierick  Bouts,  and  the  softly 
coloured  portrait  of  a  man  by  Memling.  A  number  of  later  Flemish  works 
have  also  recently  been  purchased  by  the  directors.  The  St.  Jerome  be- 
fore the  crucifix  and  the  Annunciation,  the  latter  perhaps  by  Gerard 
David,  are  works  of  more  than  mediocre  value.  —  Among  the  works  of 
the  Early  German  School  several  by  the  Cologne  Masters,  by  DUrer,  and 
by  the  two  Holbeins  are  conspicuous,  but  the  genuineness  of  the  Fiirleger 
and  of  the  elder  Diirer  is  disputed.  The  Passion  Scenes  by  the  Elder 
Holbein  are  genuine,  but  harsh  and  repellent  in  style.  On  the  other  hand 
the  profile  of  a  young  man  with  a  carnation  (Simon  George  of  Cornwall) 
by  the  Younger  Holbein  is  remarkable  for  delicacy  of  conception.  —  The 
gallery  has  also  been  much  enriched  of  late  years  by  the  purchase  of 
works  of  the  Dutch  School  of  the  17th  cent.,  the  merits  of  which  have 
recently  begun  to  be  duly  appreciated.  The  most  valuable  of  these  is 
RembrandVs  Parable  of  the  labourers  in  the  vineyard,  painted  in  1666, 
and  purchased  from  the  King  of  Holland's  collection.  The  picture 
at  first  sight  presents  a  monotonous  appearance,  but  on  closer  inspection 
we  observe  that  the  master  has  most  skilfully  relieved  the  prevailing 
yellow  tone  with  shades  of  brown  and  gray,  delicately-  blended  with 
red.  Fran*  Hals  of  Haarlem,  the  greatest  of  the  other  Dutch  masters, 
is  admirably  represented  by  a  large  portrait  of  a  lady  and  the  busts  of 
a  young  married  couple.  —  Host  conspicuous  among  the  Modern  Pictures 
in  the  Stadel  Gallery  are  numerous  works  of  the  older  Diisseldorf  School, 
and  of  the  so-called  'Nasarenes',  of  whom  Overbeck  at  Rome  was  the  chief. 
That  master's  large7  picture  representing  the  Triumph  of  Religion  in  the 
Arts,  which  would  have  been  more  suitable  as  a  mural  painting,  forms 
an  excellent  exponent  of  the  views  of  his  school.  Though  executed  but 
a  few  decades  ago,  many  of  these  works  are  almost  more  foreign  to  mod- 
ern taste  in  their  style  and  touch  than  the  pictures  of  the  old  Dutch 
masters.  Not  only  do  the  works  of  Olivier,  Ramboux,  P/orr,  Passavant, 
and  the  earlier  Diisseldorf   masters  present  a   most  primitive   style   of 


Stadel  Gallery. 


FRANKFORT. 


28.  Route.     21 1 


execution,  but  their  subjects  are  of  a  character  which  is  now  but  little 
appreciated.  There  is  also  a  marked  difference  between  the  various 
schools  in  their  colouring ,  as  for  example  in  the  treatment  of  the  red 
used  by  Lessing  in  his  Council  of  Constance,  as  contrasted  with  that  used 
by  the  Belgian  painter  Gallait,  and  particularly  that  used  by  Velazques. 

Room  I.  Netherlandish  Masters  of  the  17th  century.  To  the  left  of 
the  door :  193.  Aart  de  Oelder,  The  artist  painting  a  woman ;  256,  258.  Aart 
van  der  Neer,  Moonlight  scenes;  182.  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  a  lady  (1635); 
*181.  Rembrandt,  Parable  of  the  Labourers  in  the  vineyard  (1656);  *175. 
Fran*  Hals,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  143.  Van  Dyck,  Toung  man;  153.  Dav. 
Tenters,  The  smoker;  131.  Rubens,  Child  in  a  small  chair;  *217.  Pieter  de 
Hooch,  Interior;  *173,  *174.  Fran*  Hals,  A  Dutchman  (1638)  and  his  wife; 
269.  J.  Ruisdael,  Brook  after  a  thunder-storm;  260,  261.  Ever  ding  en,  Storm, 
Mill ;  127.  Rubens,  King  David  playing  on  the  harp ;  290.  Hobbema,  Margin 
of  a  forest. 

Boom  II.  Italian  and  Spanish  Masters.  To  the  left:  *M.Morctto,  Ma- 
donna enthroned,  with  SS.  Anthony  and  Sebastian;  30.  Bassoferrato,  Girl 
praying;  49.  P.  Veronese  (1),  Mars  and  Venus;  11.  Sandro  Botticelli,  Por- 
trait ('a  tempera") ;  Velazquez,  *57.  Cardinal  Gaspar  Borgia ,  58.  The  In- 
fanta Maria  Marg.  Theresa,   daughter  of  Philip  IV.  and  consort  of  Emp. 


Leopold  I.;  1.  Barnaba  da  Modena,  Madonna  ('a  tempera');  39.  Oima  da 
Conegliano,  Madonna;  59.  Bpagnoletto,  Susannah;  41.  Early  Copy  from 
GHorgione,  Portrait  of  Giorgione  as  St.  Maurice ;  *85.  Qiov.  Bellini,  Madonna 
and  Child,  with  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  Elisabeth ;  *44.  Moretto,  Madonna 
with  the  four  Latin  Church  Fathers,  SS.  Gregory,  Jerome,  Ambrose,  and 
Augustine  (originally in S.  Carlo  al  Corso  in  Rome);  16.  Perugino,  Madonna; 
42.  Seb.  del  Piombo,  Portrait  of  one  of  the  Medici ;  19.  Macrino  cTAlba, 
Triptych  for  an  altar,  Madonna,  with  SS.  Joachim  and  Anna  on  the  left, 
and  St.  Joachim  teaching  a  child  on  the  right  ('a  tempera');  32.  An- 
toneUo  da  Messina,  St.  Sebastian;  9.  F.  Pesellino,  Virgin  and  Child;  7. 
(Hot.  da  Fiesote,  Madonna  enthroned  ('a  tempera");  12.  ffandro  Botticelli, 
Madonna  ('a  tempera");  *29.  Ouido  Reni,  Christ  scourged ;  26.  Innocenzo  da 
Imola,  Assumption;  18.  Mantegna,  St.  Mark  ('a  tempera") 

Room  III.  (to  the  left  of  Room  II.).  Later  Italian  and  French  Masters. 
51,  52.  Canaletto,  Palace  of  the  Doges  at  Venice. 

Room  IV.  (to  the  right  of  Room  II.).  Earlier  Flemish  and  German 
Masters.  To  the  left:  62,  63.  School  of  Cologne  (ascribed  to  Stephan  Loch- 
ner,  p.  25),  Martyrdom  of  the  Apostles  (twelve  scenes) ;  101.  Roger  van  der 
Weyden,  Three  sections  of  an  altar-piece  of  St.  John;  102-106.  School  of 
R.  van  der  Weyden,  Trinity  (in  grisaille),  St.  Veronica,  Madonna  and  Child, 
The  Malefactors  crucified  with  Christ,  Crucifixion;  99.  Petrus  Cristus  (a 
pupil  of  Hubert  van  Eyck),  'Madonna  of  Lucca',  so-called  from  the  Duke 
of  Lucca,  its  former  proprietor  (the  date,  1447,  erroneously  changed  to  1417); 
73.  Hans  Baldung  Grien,  Heavenly  and  earthly  love ;  110.  Gerard  David,  An- 

14* 


212     Route  28.  FRANKFORT.  Stadel  Gallery. 

nunciation ;  *71.  Holbein  the  Younger,  Simon  George  of  Cornwall ;  97.  Dierick 
Bout* ,  The  Sibyl  foretelling  the  birth  of  Christ  to  the  Emp.  Augustus, 

The  following  five  cabinets  contain  Netherlandish  and  German  works 
of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  The  enumeration  in  each  begins  to  the 
right  of  the  door.  Cab.  V. :  64,  65,  66.  H.  Holbein  the  Elder,  Scenes  of 
the  Passion;  115.  Netherlandish  School  (beginning  of  the  16th  cent.), 
Entombment*,  93.  Master  of  the  Death  of  the  Virgin  (Jan  Joest),  Pieta, 
St.  Veronica,  Joseph  of  Arimathsea  (a  triptych).  —  Cab.  VI. :  67,  68,  69,  70. 
Holbein  the  Elder,  Passion  Scenes;  84.  Dilrer,  Portrait  of  his  father  (forged 
inscription);  107.  H.  Memling,  Portrait;  88.  L.  Cranach  the  Elder,  Nude 
woman  with  a  veil;  113.  Quinten  Massy  s,  Portrait;  108.  Memling,  St. 
Jerome  before  a  crucifix;  72.  Holbein  the  Younger  (?),  Man  with  a  sick 
child.  —  Cab.  VII. :  209,  210.  C.  Bega,  Women  conversing,  Peasants ;  204. 
Gerard  Terburg,  Woman  drinking  wine;  177.  School  of  Frans  Hals,  Por- 
trait ;  310.  Ph.  Wouteerman ,  Cavalier  at  the  door  of  a  tavern  (purchased 
for  770*.).  —  Cab.  VIII. :  206.  Ger.  Dou,  Girl  with  a  candle  preparing 
supper  (5131.);  A.  Elshaimer,  337.  Paul  and  Barnabas  at  Lystra,  338. 
Landscape  with  Bacchus  and  nymphs;  284.  W.  van  de  Velde,  Sea-piece; 
147,  148.  A.  Brouwer,  Operations  on  peasants ;  215.  Jan  Steen,  Man  jesting 
with  a  girl.  —  We  now  traverse  Cab.  IX.,  and  reach  — 

Room  X.,  the  copying-room,  which  contains  a  bust  of  Prof.  J.  Becker, 
by  Kaupert. 

The  following  five  cabinets  contain  examples  of  Flemish  and  Dutch 
masters  of  the  17th  and  18th  cent.,  and  of  the  cognate  Frankfort  paint- 
ers of  the  same  period.  Cab.  XI.:  213.  Jan  Weenix,  Tinker.  —  Cab.  XIII. : 
232.  Mieris,  Old  woman  with  a  flask ;  373,  374.  Seekate  (p.  221),  Boy  and 
girl  by  candle-light.  —  Cab.  XIV.:  398,  399.  Tiechbein^  Portraits;  375,  Seekats, 
Dulcimer-player. 

Room  XVI.  is  devoted  to  modern  German  masters  from  1810  to  1840. 
To  the  left  of  the  door:  423.  Fohr,  Cascades  at  Tivoli;  415.  Ramboux,  Ca- 
puchin preaching  in  the  Colosseum  at  Rome.  To  the  right  of  the  door: 
411.  Pastavant,  St.  Hubert;  409.  Olivier,  Pilgrims  in  the  desert;  412.  Pforr, 
Rudolf  of  Hapsburg  presenting  his  horse  to  the  priest ;  422.  Schnorr  von 
Carolsfeld,  The  Good  Samaritan;  404.  J.  A.  Koch,  Noah  after  the  Flood.  — 
**413.  Overbeck,  The  Triumph  of  Religion  in  the  Arts  (1840).  One  of  ita 
chief  points  of  interest  is  its  wealth  of  allusion,  to  understand  which  the 
visitor  should  consult  the  catalogue. 

Room  XVII.  The  whole  of  the  farther  wall  is  occupied  by  a  large 
*Fresco  by  Philip  Veit  (No.  416),  representing  the  'Introduction  of  the 
Arts  into  Germany",  with  figures  of  'Italia''  and  'Gei-mania'  on  thrones. 
This  work,  the  masterpiece  of  the  painter,  completed  in  1836,  was  skil- 
fully sawn  out  of  the  wall  in  the  old  building  and  transferred  hither.  — 
The  room  also  contains  ten  Biblical  cartoons  (Nos.  503-512)  by  Steinle. 

Room  XVIII.  *414.  W.  Schadow ,  The  Wise  and  Foolish  Virgins.  - 
We  now  retrace  our  steps  through  Room  XVII.,  and  enter  — 

Room  XIX.,  the  principal  room  of  modern  works.  To  the  left  of  the 
door:  444.  E.  Steinle,  The  Tiburtine  Sibyl;  *458.  A.  Aehenbaeh,  Storm  at 
sea ;  *437.  C.  F.  Lessing ,  John  Huss  at  the  Council  of  Constance,  11  ft. 
high ,  14  ft.  long ,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  works  of  the  Diisseldorf 
school;  442.  A.  Zimmermann,  Mountain -torrent  after  a  thunderstorm; 
439,  440.  Lessing,  Woodland  scenes;  448.  Pose,  Schloss  Eltz  (p.  172);  438. 
Lessing,  Ezzelino  in  prison,  refusing  spiritual  consolation  and  resolv- 
ing to  die  of  hunger;  *430.  M.  v.  Schmnd,  Contest  of  singers  at  the 
Wartburg,  a  replica  in  oils  of  his  fresco  at  the  Wartburg;  461.  H.  Leys, 
Scene  in  front  of  a  Dutch  inn ;  450.  C.  Morgenstem,  Italian  coast-scene ; 
*447.  /.  Becker,  Shepherd  struck  by  lightning;  419.  Ph.  Veit,  Repose  on 
the  Flight  into  Egypt;  456.  G.  Saal,  Hardanger-Fjord  by  evening-light; 
405.  Koch,  Landscape,  with  the  rape  of  Hylas  by  nymphs,  perhaps  Koch's 
best  work;  431.  M.  von  Schwind,  Dance  of  elves;  433.  /.  Hubner,  Job  and 
his  friends;  463.  A.  Calame,  Alpine  scene;  436.  H.  Funk,  Ruin  on  a  lake 
by  morning  light;  460.  Gallait,  Abdication  of  Charles  V.,  a  small  replica 
of  the  large  picture  at  Brussels;  441.  Lessing,  Centenarian  oak;  454.  A. 
Relhel,  Daniel  in  the  den  of  lions. 


GERNSHEIM.  28.  Route.     213 

Rook  XX.  472-481.  Ramboux .  Ten  coloured  sketches  from  Dante; 
471.  Overbeck,  Joseph  sold,  and  482.  Ph.  Fett,  The  seven  years  of  plenty, 
two  cartoons  of  the  famous  frescoes  in  the  Casa  Bartholdy  at  Borne.  The 
remainder  of  this  room,  and  Rooms  XXI.,  XXII.  contain  a  selection 
(changed  weekly)  of  engravings  and  drawings,  including  drawings  and 
coloured  sketches  of  Raphael's  frescoes  in  the  Vatican.  Room  XXI.  also 
contains  the  design  for  VeiC s  ceiling  -  painting  of  the  'Shield  of  Achilles' 
as  described  by  Homer,  in  one  of  th^  rooms  in  the  old  building. 

Room  XXIII.  486-495.  Schnorr,. Cartoons  for  the  frescoes  in  the  Villa 
Massimi  at  Rome ;  470.  Cornelius,  Last  Judgment,  coloured  sketch  for  the 
picture  at  Munich. 

From  Frankfort  to  Maybnce  (HessischtLudwigsbahn),  22i/2  M. , 
in  3/4-l  hr.  (fares  2  m,  95,  1  m.  95,  1  m.  30  pf. ;  express  3  m.  25, 
2  m.  45.  1  m.  30  pf.).  —  The  train  starts  from-  the  Main-Neckar 
station  (p.  200),  crosses  the  Main,  and  joins  the  line  from  Sachsen- 
hausen  near  (2^2  M.)  Niederrad.  It  runs  at  first  through  wood,  but 
afterwards  affords  a  view  of  the  Taunus  to  the  right.  The  inter- 
mediate stations,  all  of  which  express  trains  pass  without  stop- 
ping, are  Goldstein  (see  below);  7  M.  Schwanheim;  9  M.  KeUttt- 
baeh;  14  M.  Raunheim;  16  M.  Russelsheim;  I8V2  M-  Bisehofsheim 
(p.  224).  The  train  then  crosses  the  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  146, 
and  reaches  Mayence  (p.  136). 


In  addition  to  the  Main-Neckar  Railway  described  in  R.  30, 
Frankfort  is  connected  with  Mannheim  by  the  'Riedbahn',  one  of 
the  lines  of  the  Hessische  Ludwigsbahn  (50  M.,  in  l3/4-2l/2  brs. ; 
fares  6  m.  25,  4  m.  15,  2  m.  70  pf.).  From  Frankfort  to  Niederrad, 
see  above.  4M.  Goldstein;  9  M.  Walldorf;  11  M.  Morfelden.  From 
(17  M.)  Dornberg  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Grossgerau  (p.  224). 
19  M.  Dornteim;  201/2  M.  Leeheim-Wolfskehlen.  22  M.  Goddelau- 
Erfelden  is  the  junction  for  the  Darmstadt  and  Worms  railway 
(p.  224),  which  coincides  with  the  Mannheim  line  as  far  as  Biblis 
(see  below).  23^/2  M.  Stockstadt,  on  the  Rhine;  26  M.  Biebts- 
heim.  28  M.  Gernsheim  (Karpfen  ,•  Weisses  Row),  a  small  and  busy 
town  on  the  Rhine,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  773  and  de- 
stroyed by  Melac  in  1689.  It  contains  a  monument  to  Peter 
Schoffer,  one  of  the  inventors  of  printing,  who  was  born  here. 
33  M.  Biblis,  where  the  line  to  Rosengarten  and  Worms  diverges 
to  the  ri^ht  (p.  224);  36  M.  Butstadt,  the  junction  of  the  Bens- 
heim  and  Worms  railway  (p.  228).  At  (40  M.)  Lamptriheim  the 
Riedbahn  divides,  the  right  branch  leading  by  Waldhof  to  the 
(48  M.)  Neckar  suburb  of  Mannheim,  while  the  left  passes  Wald- 
hof and  Kaferthal  and  leads  to  the  central  station  at  Mannheim 
(p.  240). 


214 


29.  The  Taunus. 


The  name  Taunus,  in  the  wider  sense,  applies  to  the  whole  of  the 
mountainous  region  between  the  Main,  the  Rhine,  and  the  Lahn,  but  is 
usually  restricted  to  the  southern  mountains  of  that  district,  sloping  down 
to  the  Main  and  Rhine ,  and  extending  from  Nauheim  on  the  E.  to  Ass- 
mannshausen  on  the  W.  The  highest  points  of  this  range  are  the  Great 
Feldberg  (2900  ft.),  the  Little  Feldberg  (2713  ft.),  and  the  Altkimig  (2386  ft.). 

One  and  a  half  or  two  days  suffice  for  a  glimpse  at  the  most  inter- 
esting spots  in  this  district :  Railway  to  Hamburg,  where  the  night  is  spent, 
50  minutes.  Next  morning  by  an  early  train  to  Oberursel  and  thence  to 
the  top  of  the  Feldberg  3  hrs.,  or  from  Homburg  to  the  Feldberg  direct, 
also  in  3  hrs. ;  descent  to  Kbnigstein  iy«  hr. ;  thence  by  Falkenstein  to  Cron- 
berg  l1/*  hr. ;  or  by  the  Rottert  to  Epprtein  in  2'/shrs.,  at  either  of  which 
the  railway  is  again  reached. 

a.   Tannns  Railway  from  Frankfort  to  Cartel  (Mayence)  and 
Wiesbaden. 

Railway  to  Castel  (20»/a  M.)  in  >/<-l  hr.-,  fares  2  m.  80,  1  m.  90,  1  m. 
20  pf.,  express,  3  m.  10,  2  m.  30  pf.  (fares  to  Mayence,  including  the 
steamer  across  the  river,  2  m.  96,  1  m.  95,  1  m.  30  pf.,  or  3  m.  25,  2  m. 
45  pf. j  see  below).  To  Wietbaden  (26  M.)  in  1-1 »/«  hr.  (fares  3  m.  40, 
2  in.  30,  1  m.  50  pf. ;  express  3  m.  80,  2  m.  90  pf.). 

The  Taunus  Railway,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Germany,  was  opened 
in  1839.  Leaving  the  town,  the  train  passes  the  Oallenwarte  on  the 
left,  and  Bockenheim  on  the  right.  The  Homburg  line  diverges  to 
the  right  (p.  215).  The  Nidda  is  now  crossed,  and  the  train  reaches  — 

51/2  M.  Hochflt  (290  ft.;  Frankfurter  Hof;  Qoldner  Adler  ; 
Landsberg,  at  the  station),  a  thriving  little  town,  with  4000  inhab., 
and  possessing  an  interesting  church  of  St.  Justinus,  erected  in 
1090,  with  a  Gothic  choir  added  in  1443.  A  palace  of  the  Electors 
of  Mayence  here  was  destroyed  by  the  Frankfurters  in  1634,  but 
the  handsome  tower  is  still  standing. 

From  Hochst  to  Soden,  see  p.  217.  —  From  Hochst  to  Hofheimy  Epp- 
stein.  and  IAmburg,  see  p.  219. 

9^2  M.  Hattersheim.  A  good  view  to  the  N.  is  Obtained  of  the 
principal  peaks  of  the  Taunus  Mountains.  The  white  Hofheimer 
Chapel  (p.  219),  on  the  hill-side,  is  also  conspicuous.* 

At  (13 1/2  M.)  Florsheim  (Hirsch),  a  village  on  the  Main,  omni- 
buses and  carriages  are  in  waiting  to  convey  travellers  to  the 
(1 1/2 M.) baths  of  Weilbach (sulphur-springs),  with  its  Curhaus  and 
pleasant  grounds.  The  village  of  Weilbach  lies  about  1  M.  to  the  N. 
of  the  baths.  Pleasing  view  from  the  lKanzeV  (pulpit),  a  hill  with 
four  trees,  1/2  M.  above  Diedenbergen,  and  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Weil- 
bach. 

I71/2  M.  Hochheim  (407ft.;  *Schwari),  a  small  town,  celebrated 
for  its  wines.  The  most  esteemed  is  yielded  by  the  vineyards  of 
the  old  Domdeehanei  (deanery) ,  now  a  shooting-box  of  the  Duke 
of  Nassau.  The  sparkling  'Hock'  made  at  Hochheim,  whence  the 
name,  is  much  prized,  and  is  chiefly  exported  to  England. 

On  entering  (20V2  M.)  Castel  (p.  137 ;  Plan  of  Mayence,  F,  6), 


i  tn  rl  Mil  it 


Taunus.  HOMBURG.  29.  Route.     215 

the  tete-de-pont  of  Mayence  on  the  E.  hank  of  the  Rhine,  the  line 
intersects  the  fortifications.  The  station  is  near  the  bridge. 

Steamboats  from  Castel  to  Mayence  start  close  to  the  station;  see 
p.  136.  Cab  to  Mayence  (preferable  for  travellers  continuing  their  journey 
at  once  by  steamer),  one-horse,  1-2  pers.  1  m.,  3-4  pers.  1  m.  40  pf.;  two- 
horse,  1  m.  40  or  1  m.  80  pf. ;  each  box  20  pf.  •,  bridge-toll  included. 

From  Castel  to  Wibsbadbn.  The  train  again  intersects  the 
fortifications  of  Castel.  24  M.  Curvey  where  the  through-carriages 
to  the  Rheingau  are  detached  (p.  128),  and  which  is  connected  by 
a  short  branch-line  with  Biebrich  (p.  121).  In  8  min.  after  leaving 
Curve  the  train  arrives  at  (26  M.)  Wiesbaden,  see  p.  130. 

b.  From  Frankfort  to  Homburg  and  Cronberg. 

Railway  to  Hamburg,  11  M.,  in  30-50  min.  (fares  1  m.  80,  1  m.,  60  pf.)*, 
to  Cronberg,  9»/s  M.,  in  90-40  min.  (fares  1  m.  30,  90,  60  pf.).  —  The  trains 
start  from  the*  Main- Weser  Station. 

Soon  after  quitting  the  town  the  train  diverges  from  the  Taunus 
line  (p.  214)  and  crosses  the  Nidda.  3  M.  Rodtlhcim,  junction  of 
the  Cronberg  line  (p.  217) ;  7  M.  Weiskirchen.  9  M.  Obcrursel 
(Schutzenhof ;  Bar),  a  very  old  town,  is  much  visited  by  the  Frank- 
forters  in  summer ,  and  possesses  a  Gothic  church  consecrated  in 
1481.    (Ascent  of  the  Feldberg  from  Oberursel,  see  p.  219.) 

11  M.  Homburg.  —  Hotels.  *Vikb  Jahbeszeiten,  *Russischeb  Hof, 
♦Victobia,  "Bellrvue,  "Hessischeb  Hof,  Eubopaischbb  Hof,  Rheinischeb 
Hof,  well  spoken  of,  R.  at  these  from  l»/«,  D.  at  1  o'clock  2tyr4M/«  m. ;  Hd- 
tel  oe  Fbancb  i  Hotel  Windsor,  new;  Englischeb  Hofj  *Adlbb,  Eiskn- 
bahn-H6tel  (at  the  station),  and  Goldene  Rose  (unpretending),  convenient 
for  a  single  night. 

Restaurant  at  the  "Curhaus,  D.  at  1  o'clock  3,  at  5  o'clock  4  m.  — 
Beer.  Ooldene  Rose;  Saner,  in  the  main  street*,  Kladderadatech,  opposite 
the  Cursaal. 

Music  in  summer,  7-9  a.m.,  by  the  Elisabeth-Brunnen ;  at  3  p.m.  on 
the  terrace  of  the  Curhaus.    Also  a  theatre,  concerts,  and  balls. 

Tax  for  persons  staying  more  than  five  days:  1  pers.  12  m.,  2  pers. 
18  m.,  3-4  pers.  24  m.,  for  a  larger  party  30  m. 

Carriage  with  one  horse,  from  the  station  to  the  town ,  1-2  pers.  60, 
3-4  pers.  80  pf.,  box  20  pf.*  within  the  town,  including  the  mineral 
spring ,  the  park ,  and  the  Ferdinands-Anlage,  for  l/?  hr.,  80  pf.  or  1  ni. 
20  pf.;  outside  the  town,  for  V*  hr. ,  1  m.  20  or  1  m.  70  pf.  (with  two 
horses  2m.  60 pf.);  to  Cronberg  with  one  horse  9,  with  two  horses  12  m., 
to  Konigstein  or  Soden  10V«  or  I8V2  m. ;  to  Saalburg  6  or  8  m. 

Homburg  vor  dtr  R'6h\  a  town  with  about  8000  inhab.,  situated 
on  a  spur  of  the  Taunus  Mts. ,  the  residence  of  the  Landgraves  of 
Hessen-Homburg,  a  collateral  line  of  the  grand-ducal  family  of  H es- 
se n,  from  1662  to  1866,  when  this  branch  of  the  family  became  ex- 
tinct, is  one  of  the  most  popular  watering-places  in  the  Rhine-land 
(11,000  visitors  annually).  In  the  Louisen-Strasse,  the  main  street, 
which  runs  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station,  are  situated  the  principal 
hotels,  the  theatre,  and  the  Gurhaus. 

The  Curhaus ,  the  chief  rendezvous  of  visitors,  built  in  1840 
and  extended  in  1863  ,  contains  a  number  of  very  handsome  apart- 
ments, a  well-supplied  reading-room,  and  the  'Saalburg  Museum' 
(adm.  50  pf.),  a  collection  of  antiquities  found  on  the  Saalburg  (see 


216    Routt  29.  SAALBURG.  Taunus. 

below).  A  terrace  on  the  N.  side,  partly  covered  with  glass,  is  a 
favourite  resort  in  fine  weather,  and  the  corridors  of  the  ground- 
floor  afford  a  sheltered  promenade  during  rain.  The  large  adjacent 
Bath  House  contains  baths  of  every  kind. 

At  the  hack  of  the  Curhaus,  to  the  N.E.,  extend  beautiful 
*Pleasurc  Grounds ,  in  which ,  to  the  right  (E.),  we  observe  the 
sparkling  chalybeate  and  saline  Springs  (chiefly  prescribed  for 
bowel-complaints),  */4  M.  from  the  Curhaus.  The  chief  of  these  is 
the  Elisabeth -Brunnen,  farthest  to  the  E.,  the  water  of  which, 
containing  more  salt  than  the  Bakoczy  mineral  water  at  Kissingen, 
is  exported  in  considerable  quantity .  Near  the  adjoining  'Trink- 
halle'  are  well-kept  flower-beds ,  a  palm-house ,  and  an  orangery. 
The  8tahlbrunnen  and  the  LouisenqueUe  are  less  saline  than  the 
Elisabethbrunnen,  but  are  much  richer  in  iron,  especially  the  first- 
named.  The  Kaiserbrunnen  and  the  Ludwigsbrunnen  are  used 
chiefly  for  bathing. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  town  (ascend  the  main  street  and  turn  to 
the  left)  rises  the  Schloss,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  land- 
graves. It  was  erected  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  cent. ,  and  has 
been  recently  fitted  up  for  the  use  of  the  Emperor  and  Crown- 
prince  of  Germany.  The  Weisse  Thurmy  which  rises  in  the  court  at 
the  back  to  a  height  of  188  ft.,  commands  an  extensive  view  (fee 
50  pf .).  Above  a  gateway  here  is  the  front  half  of  an  equestrian 
statue,  and  opposite  to  it  a  bust  of  Prince  Frederick,  who,  under  the 
leadership  of  the  Great  Elector,  decided  the  victory  of  the  Bran- 
denburgers  over  the  Swedes  at  Fehrbellin  in  1675  by  the  spirited 
charge  of  his  cavalry.  The  Palace  Garden  (open  to  the  public)  con- 
tains an  orangery,  some  fine  old  cedars,  and  a  fish-pond. 

Walks.  Begides  the  pleasure-grounds  above  mentioned,  the  traveller 
may  also  visit  the  Hard  or  Hardtcald,  adjoining  the  Curhaus  grounds ;  the 
Orosse  Tannentcald,  y*  hr.  to  the  K.W.  of  Homburg,  and  the  Kleine  Tan- 
nenwald ,  20  min.  to  the  W. ;  the  Luthereiche ,  7s  hr.  beyond  the  Grosse 
Tannenwald;  the  Wildpark,  1/A  hr.  from  the  Grosse  Tan  nenwald,  with 
its  numerous  deer;  the  HdlUMn\  the  Rabenttein,  etc. 

Archaeologists  should  visit  the  Saalburg,  the  remains  of  the  walls  of 
a  Roman  castle,  brought  to  light  by  excavation,  situated  on  a  wooded 
height  of  the  Taunus,  1SA  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Homburg ,  1340  ft.  above  the 
sea-level,  and  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  left  of  the  Usingen  road.  Walk- 
ers should  follow  the  Elisabethenschneisse  and  the  Liodenweg  (also  call- 
ed the  Kaiser  Wilhelmsweg;  comp.  Map  of  the  Taunus).  The  Saalburg 
formed  one  of  the  forts  belonging  to  the  PfdMgraben .  an  extensive  line 
of  intrenchments  constructed  to  protect  the  Soman  provinces  against  the 
warlike  Germans,  which  extended  from  Ratisbon  past  Lorch  and  Aschafien- 
burg  to  the  Vogelberg,  then  turned  S.W.  to  the  Saalburg,  and  finally 
stretched  northwards  to  Ems  and  Niederbiber  (p.  63).  —  The  Saalburg  is 
the  largest,  so  far  as  is  known,  of  the  forts  on  the  Pfahlgraben,  measur- 
ing 720  by  480  Roman  feet,  and  was  probably  founded  by  Druaus  in  the 
year  A.D.  10,  during  his  campaign  against  the  Chatti.  After  the  battle  of 
the  Teutoburgian  Forest  the  fort  was  destroyed,  but  Germanicus  recon- 
structed it  in  A.D.  15,  and  it  was  afterwards  frequently  altered.  The 
antiquities  found  here  are  preserved  in  the  Homburg  Curhaus.  The  Pfahl- 
graben itself  is  distinctly  recognisable  at  a  point. about  300  yds.  to  the  N. 
of  the  Saalburg,  reached  by  following  the   alley  cut  through  the  wood. 


Taunus.  SO  DEN.  29.  Route.    217 

Another  fort  has  been  partly  excavated  near  Kdppern ,  about  6  M.  to  the 
E.  of  the  Saalburg.    Tavern  at  the  forester's  house. 
Ascent  of  the  Oroue  Feldberg,  see  p.  219. 


The  Cronberg  Railway  diverges  from  the  Homburg  line  at 
Rodelheim  (p.  215).  Stations  (5*/2  M.  from  Frankfort)  Esehborn 
and  (7  M.)  Nieder-ffichstadt. 

9V2  M.  Cronberg  (^Frankfurter  Hof,  with  good  paintings  by 
Frankfort  artists  in  the  dining-room ;  *8chutzenhof,  both  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  town,  with  gardens  and  views ;  Hahn's  Restaurant,  at 
the  station ;  '  Germania,  restaurant  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town, 
on  the  road  to  Konigstein),  a  small  town  with  2500  inhab. ,  is 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill,  surrounded  by  productive  gardens, 
and  commanded  by  Schloss  Cronberg,  with  its  conspicuous  and  lofty 
tower.  This  castle  was  built  in  the  13th  cent,  by  the  Counts  of 
Cronberg,  who  resided  here  down  to  1704,  when  the  family  became 
extinct.  Part  of  it  is  still  occupied.  The  old  chapel  contains  tomb- 
stones of  the  14th  cent. ;  the  windows  of  the  tower  (132  steps, 
fatiguing)  command  a  beautiful  view.  Cronberg  is  a  favourite  sum- 
mer-resort of  the  citizens  of  Frankfort,  including  quite  a  colony  of 
artists,  who  possess  a  number  of  pleasant  villas  in  the  environs, 
and,  like  Konigstein,  it  is  also  well  adapted  as  head-quarters  for 
excursions  into  the  Taunus  region.  —  To  Falkenstein  2M. ;  to  Ko- 
nigstein also  2  M.  (omnibus ;  see  below). 

c.  From  Frankfort  to  Soden.   Konigstein.  Falkenstein. 
Great  Feldberg. 

Railway  to  Soden,  10  M.,  in  »/*  ar. ;  fares  1  m.  30,  90,  50  pf. 

From  Frankfort  to  Hbchst,  see  p.  214.  —  Thence  by  a  short 
branch-line  to  — 

Soden.  —  Hotels.  *Corhaus;  *  Europaischer  Hof;  'Hotel  Col- 
loseus,  R.  2-21/*,  D.  2-2V2  m. ;  'Frankfurter  Hop,  quiet;  *Hollan- 
jdisohbr  Hop,  small;  'Hotel  Uhrig,  with  restaurant.  —  Beer  at  Pfaff"s. 

Carriage  per  hour  3  m.,  to  Konigstein  31/*,  to  Cronberg  4l/«,  to  the  top 
of  the  Feldberg  20  m. 

Visitors'  Tax  for  1  pers.  12,  for  2  pers.  18,  for  3-4  pers.  24  m. 

Soden (460 ft.).,  a  small  town  with  1500  inhab.,  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  Taunus  Mts.  in  the  sheltered  valley  of  the  Sulzbach.  On  the 
Konigstein  road,  which  intersects  the  town  from  S.E.  to  N.W.,  are 
most  of  the  hotels,  the  post-office,  and  the  pleasant  Ourpark,  with  the 
Curhaus  and  the  New  Bath  House,  admirably  fitted  up.  The  baths 
are  visited  by  about  2500  patients  annually.  The  Springs,  twenty- 
three  in  number,  and  varying  in  temperature  from  52°  to  81°  Fahr. , 
contain  salt,  iron,  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  are  chiefly  prescribed 
for  nervous  complaints  and  derangement  of  the  mucous  membrane. 
They  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing,  and  rise  in  different 
parts  of  the  valley.  The  Milckbrunnen,  Warmbrunnen,  Soolbrunnen, 
and  Champagner-Brunnen,  which  are  chiefly  used  for  drinking,  rise 
in  the  so-called  Haupt-Strasse,  near  the  old  Bath  House. 


218    Route  29.  GREAT  FELDBERG.  Taunus. 

Walks.  To  the  Drei  Linden,  a  good  point  of  view,  20  mim  to  the 
N.,  near  Neuenhain  (see  below);  to  the  Altenhainer  Thai,  l/t  hr.  to  the 
N.W.  -,  to  the  village  of  Sulzbach;  to  the  Sodener  Wdldchen,  etc. 

From  Soden  to  Cronberg,  3  M.  —  The  road  diverges  to  the  W.,  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  Carpark.  About  V<  M.  from  Soden  there  is  a  finger- 
post indicating  the  footpath  and  the  carriage-road  to  Oronthal,  which 
possesses  two  saline  springs  (water  exported),  and  to  Cronberg. 

Fbom  Soden  to  Konigstbin,  3  M.  (post-omnibus  2-3  times 
daily).  The  road  ascends  gradually,  and  passes  (1  M.)  Neuenhain, 
where  there  is  another  chalybeate  spring  used  for  sanatory  purposes. 

Xonigttein.  —  Hotels.  Zur  Post,  or  Lows,  with  a  large  garden, 
omnibus  to  Cronberg  70  pf.;  *Stadt  Amsterdam,  also  with  a  garden; 
*Hirsch,  unpretending.  —  Hydropathic  Establishment  of  Dr.  Pingler.  — 
Baths  and  pension  at  the  Hainbad. 

Konigstein  (1190  ft.),  a  picturesquely-situated  little  town  with 
1500  inhab.,  and  a  number  of  pleasant  villas  in  the  environs,  is 
one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  Taunus  region.  To  the  W. 
of  the  town  rise  the  imposing  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Konigstein 
(1490  ft.),  which  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1796.  This 
stronghold  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  1225 ;  in 
1581  it  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Electors  of  Mayence,  whose 
armorial  bearings  are  still  to  be  seen  over  the  entrance ;  in  1792  it 
was  captured  by  the  French,  and  in  1793  by  the  Prussians.  The 
vaults  and  casemates  are  still  partly  preserved.  Fine  view,  especially 
from  the  tower,  the  custodian  of  which  lives  in  the  town. 

From  Konigstein  to  Eppstein,  5  M.,  by  a  road  turning  to  the 
right  (W.)  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  see  p.  220. 

The  wooded  hill  to  the  N.E.  of  Konigstein  is  crowned  with  the 
ruin  of  Burg  Falkenstein  (1490  ft.),  the  path  to  which  (35  min.) 
is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town.  This 
castle,  the  ancestral  seat  of  the  powerful  Archbishop  Kuno  of  Treves, 
was  erected  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  fortress 
of  Niiring,  and  was  destroyed  in  1688.  *View  from  the  tower, 
a  key  of  which  is  kept  at  Konigstein,  and  another  at  the  village 
of  Falkenstein  (Inn  *Zur  Sohonen  Aussicht'),  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
hill.  Adjoining  the  village  is  the  Curanstalt  Falkenstein  (1310  ft.  ; 
R.  for  a  week  or  upwards  l-9'/2  m-  P«r  day,  board  6  m.  per  day), 
to  which  an  omnibus  plies  regularly  from  (2M.)  Cronberg. 

The  highest  point  of  the  Taunus  Mts.  is  the  *Great  Feldberg 
(2900  ft.),  the  top  of  which  consists  of  quartzose  rock,  while  the 
slopes  are  composed  of  clay-slate.  The  whole  mountain,  except  the 
flat  grassy  plateau  on  the  summit,  is  clothed  with  beautiful  woods. 
The  *Feldberghaus,  an  unpretending  inn  at  the  top  (R.  1  m.  20  to 
lm.  70 pf.,  D.  at  12.30p.m.  1  m.  75  pf.,  'pension'  4i/2m. ;  ascent 
of  the  tower  20  pf.) ,  commands  an  admirable  panorama  in  clear 
weather  (see  Ravenstein's  panorama  in  the  dining-room ;  also  some 
good  pictures  by  Frankfort  painters).  The  block  of  quartz,  12  ft.  in 
height,  near  the  inn,  is  mentioned  in  a  document  as  early  as  812, 
where  it  is  called  the  Brunhildenbett. 


Taunus.  EPPSTEIN.  20.  Route.    219 

To  the  S.  of  the  Feldberg  rises  the  AUkonig  (2386  ft. ;  ascent 
more  fatiguing).  The  summit  is  enclosed  by  a  double  girdle  of 
loose  stones,  with  a  rectangular  outer  rampart  on  the  W.  side, 
which  were  probably  thrown  up  by  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of 
the  Main  Valley  so  as  to  form  a  place  of  defence  in  time  of  war. 

Ascent  of  the  Feldberg  from  Konigstein,  2  hrs.  (carriage  12  m. ; 
guide  unnecessary,  1  m.  70  pf.).  We  ascend  the  Frankfort  and  Lim- 
burg  road  as  far  as  (l*/4  M.)  a  finger-post,  which  indicates  the  road  to 
the  right  to  Reiffenberg  and  the  Feldberg*,  this  road  passes  the  Seelen- 
born,  and  reaches  the  (l3/*  M.)  so-called  Rothe  Kreux  (finger-post), 
where  the  Feldberg  road  diverges  to  the  right.  About  1  M.  farther  we 
reach  the  saddle  between  the  Great  and  the  Little  Feldberg,  where  our 
route  joins  the  road  from  the  Fuchstanz  (see  below).  In  'V<  hr.  more  we 
reach  the  top. 

From  Falken stein  (2  hrs.).  A  broad  road  ascends  gradually  from 
the  upper  part  of  the  village  in  1  hr.  to  the  Fuchstanz,  an  open  space 
in  the  wood,  where  several  paths  meet,  and  whence  the  top  is  reached 
in  1  hr.  more  (finger-post).  We  may  avoid  the  long  circuit  made  by 
the  road  by  following  -the  path  to  the  left  at  the  church  of  Falken- 
stein,  which  ascends  the  course  of  the  Beichenbach  and  then  joins  the 
footpath  to  the  Fuchstanz  (not  easy  to  find  without  a  guide).  —  [The 
path  to  the  Altkonig  diverges  from  the  Feldberg  path  about  20  min. 
before  the  latter  reaches  the  Fuchstanz.] 

From  Obebursel,  (3  hrs.).  Leaving  the  station  (p.  215),  we  pass 
through  the  village  and  follow  the  road  ascending  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  brook.  Beyond  the  (i1/*  hr.)  Hohe  Mark  spinning-mill,  we  quit  the 
road  at  the  finger-post  inscribed  'Feldberg  iiber  den  BuchborcT,  whence 
the  ridge  is  reached  in  40  minutes.  We  then  follow  the  Pfahlgraben, 
passing  the  Stockborn,  a  Roman  tower,  after  '/shr.,  and  attaining  the  top 
in  xji  hr.  more. 

From  Homburg  (3  hrs.).  Leaving  the  W.  exit  of  the  Schlossgarten 
we  follow  the  poplar  avenue  and  the  ' Elisabethenschneite'  (a  cutting  in 
the  wood)  in  a  straight  direction.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  called  the  'Sand- 
plocken"  (2y4  brs.)  a  finger-post  indicates  the  way  to  the  Feldberg  to  the 
left.  [A  finer  route,  but  less  easy  to  trace,  leaves  the  Schlossgarten  about 
V4  M.  from  the  exit,  diverging  to  the  left  on  this  side  of  the  bridge,  and 
ascending  via  the  Frankfurter  Forsthaus.] 

d.  From  Frankfort  to  Eppitein  and  Limburff. 

46»/2  M.  Railway  in  2-/2  hrs.  (fares  6  m.  80,  4  m.  70,  2  m.  70  pf.). 

The  train  starts  from  the  Ost-Bahnhof,  stopping  at  the  (2*/2M.) 
Fahrthor  Station  (comp.  p.  200).  6  M.  Griesheim,  9  M.  Hoehst,  see 
p.  214.  The  line  now  describes  a  curve  and  crosses  the  Taunus 
railway.    12y2  M.  Krifttl. 

14  M.  Hofheim  (* Krone;  Hydropathic  Establishment  of  Frau 
Ripps,  'pens'.  40-60  m.  per  week),  a  pleasant  village  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Lorsbacher  Thai,  a  grassy  valley,  enclosed  by  wooded  slopes 
and  watered  by  the  Schwarzbach.  The  lofty  *Hofheimer  CapeUe 
(750  ft.),  reached  by  the  new  promenades  in  about  */2  nr->  a*~ 
fords  an  admirable  survey  of  the  extensive  valley  of  the  Main,  the 
Taunus  Mountains,  the  Bergstrasse,  and  the  mountains  of  the 
Palatinate. 

The  line  ascends  the  Lorsbacher  Thai,  and  crosses  the  Schwarz- 
bach several  times.  16  M.  Lorsbach  (Taunus  Inn),  a  prettily-situat- 
ed village.  —  18t/2  M.  Eppstein  (605  ft. ;  Httel  Seiler,  at  the  station  j 


220     Route  30.  DARMSTADT.  From  Frankfort 

*Zur  Oelmuhle ,  outside  the  village ,  on  the  load  to  Konigstein, 
high  charges ;  Zum  Taunus,  in  the  village,  well  spoken  of),  an 
ancient  little  town  with  scarcely  800  inhabitants.  On  a  precipi- 
tous rock  above  the  place  rises  the  picturesque  CastU  of  the  same 
name,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  1120,  the  ancestral  seat 
of  a  celebrated  family ,  five  members  of  which  were  archbishops 
and  electors  of  Mayence  between  1060  and  1305.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  Count  Stolberg.  The  Protestant  church  contains  several 
tombstones  of  the  old  family,  vthich  became  extinct  in  1535.  A 
good  *View  of  the  castle  is  obtained  from  the  hill  opposite  to  it, 
to  the  S.,  reached  by  the  'Kriegerweg'. 

The  *RosMrt  (1700  ft.),  which  is  easily  ascended  from  Eppstein  in 
1  hr.  by  a  path  turning  to  the  left  just  beyond  the  'Oelmiihle'  (but  from 
Fischbach  very  steep),  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  valleys  of  the  Rhine 
and  Main.  From  the  Rossert  to  Konigstein  1*A  hr.  —  The  view  from  the 
Stau/en  (1489  ft.),  SU  hr.  to  the  £.,  is  partly  intercepted  by  underwood. 

Immediately  below  Eppstein  the  Konigstein  road  diverges  to  the 
N.E.  from  the  Lorsbach  valley,  ascending  the  Fischbachthal  to  (l*/<  M.) 
Fischbach.  It  then  traverses  a  lofty  plateau  to  (21/*  M.)  Sctineidhain,  and 
ascends  thence  to  (iy2  M.)  Konigstein  (p.  218). 

Just  beyond  Eppstein  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel.  — 
23  M.  Niedernhausen ,  whence  a  branch-line,  opened  in  1879, 
diverges  to  Auring-Medenbach,  Igstadt,  Erbenheim,  and  Wiesbaden 
(p.  130).  —  28  M.  Idstein  (Lamm,  well  spoken  of;  Men),  a  small 
town  of  2500  inhab.,  with  many  old  houses,  was  formerly  the 
residence  of  a  collateral  branch  of  the  Nassau  family ;  the  chateau 
dates  from  the  16th  cent.,  the  church,  richly  adorned  with  marble, 
from  1667.  —  31 M.  Worsdorf;  34  M.  Camberg.  —361/2 M.  KiedeT- 
selters  (Caspari),  formerly  belonging  to  the  Electorate  of  Treves, 
has  been  celebrated  since  the  16th  cent,  for  its  mineral  waters,  in 
which  carbonate  of  soda  and  salt  are  agreeably  blended,  and  widely 
known  under  the  erroneous  name  of  'Seltzer  Water1.  The  build- 
ings of  the  spring  are  near  the  station.  From  3'/2  to  4  million 
bottles  are  annually  exported.  39  M.  Oberbrechen,  with  large  marble 
quarries ;  40  M.  Niederbrechen.  46y2  M.  Limburg,  on  the  Lahn, 
see  p.  197. 

30.  From  Frankfort  to  Heidelberg  and  Mannheim. 

Railway  (station,  see  p.  200)  to  Darmstadt  (17  M.)  in  y*-*A  hr.  (fares 
1  m.  90,  1  m.  25,  85  pf.;  express  fares  2  m.  30,  i  m.  66,  1  m.  10  pf.). 
From  Darmstadt  to  Heidelberg  or  Mannheim,  88  M.,  in  174-2  hrs.  (fares 
4  m.  26,  2  m.  80,  1  m.  86  pf.  •,  express  fares  6  m.  10,  3  m.  40,  2  m.  45  pf.). 
Seats  on  the  left  (E.)  side  of  the  train  should  be  selected  for  the  view. 

From  Frankfort  to  Mannheim  by  the  iRiedbahn\  see  p.  213. 

The  country  between  Frankfort  and  Darmstadt  is  unattractive. 

17  M.  Darmstadt  (see  Plan,  p.  226).  —  Hotels.  *Tbaubk  (Pi.  a* 

C,  3),  R.  &  A.  2,  B.  1  m.;  'Dabkstadtkb  Hof  (PI.  b  ;  B,  3),  R.  A  L.  3  m.; 
'Railway  Hotel,  at  the  Hessian  Station,  R.  2,  D.  2m.;  *H6tbl  K6hler 
(PI.  c ;  A,  3),  near  the  station  ;  Pkimz  Cabl  (PI.  d  ;  D,  3) ,  unpretending  ; 
Post  (PI.  e ;  C,  3),  with  restaurant. 

Restaurants.  'Saalbau  (PI.  B,  4),  concerts  almost  daily;  SchmitL  near 
the  station;  Danty  Louisen-Str.,  all  with  gardens.  —  Cafe':  Eichbtrg,  Rhein~ 


to  Heidelberg.  DARMSTADT.  30.  Route.     221 

Str.  —  Beer:  Formhals,  Grafen-Str.  —  JochheinCt  Baths,  next  do6r  to  the 
Prina  Carl  Hdtel. 

Darmstadt,  the  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Hessen,  with 
50,000  inhab.  (including  the  suburb  of  Bessungen) ,  a  town  with 
handsome  broad  streets,  spacious  squares,  and  tasteful  pleasure- 
grounds,  was,  though  the  capital  of  the  Counts  of  Katzenellen- 
bogen  and  afterwards  of  the  Landgraves  of  Hessen  -  Darmstadt, 
a  place  of  no  importance  down  to  the  close  of  the  18th  century. 
The  Grand  Duke  Ludwig  I.  (d.  1830)  erected  the  new  part  of  the 
town,  and  to  him  Darmstadt  is  indebted  for  its  prosperity.  A  Sta- 
tue (PL  17;  C,  3),  by  Schwanthaler,  erected  to  him  by  his  'grateful 
people'  in  1844,  is  borne  by  a  column,  140  ft.  in  height,  the  sum- 
mit of  which  affords  a  fine  view. 

The  Residbnzschloss  (PI.  29 ;  C,  2, 3)  was  begun  by  the  Land- 
grave George  I.  at  the  end  of  the  16th  cent. ;  the  portals,  belonging 
to  that  period,  but  finished  after  the  Landgrave's  death,  are  a  good 
specimen  of  the  German  Renaissance.  The  present  building  dates 
chiefly  from  the  beginning  of  last  century,  but  did  not  quite  attain 
its  present  dimensions  till  1833.  The  tower  contains  a  chime  of 
bells.  The  valuable  Library  consists  of  500,000  vols.,  4000  MSS., 
and  numerous  typographical  curiosities  (open  9-12  a.  m.  and 
2-4 p.m.).  The  other  ^Collections  (pictures,  antiquities,  natural 
history,  costumes,  and  coins)  are  open  free  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  Thurs., 
and  Frid.  11-1,  and  on  Sun.  10-1 ;  also  at  other  times  for  a  fee. 
Visitors  ring  on  the  first  floor.    Short  Guide  to  the  Collections  20  pf . 

The  *Picttjrb  Gallery  occupies  the  upper  floor  of  the  palace. 
Catalogue  1  m.  50  pf. 

The  collection  has  been  almost  entirely  formed  during  the  present 
century,  the  nucleus  having  been  the  collection  of  a  Hr.  v.  Hubsch.  The 
chief  boast  of  the  gallery  is  the  large  Rubens  (Nymphs  and  Satyrs  with 
fruit  and  game)  from  the  old  Diisseldorf  gallery,  presented  by  King  Max 
Joseph  of  Bavaria.  Van  DycVs  portrait  of  a  lady  with  a  fan,  dating  from 
1635,  and  RembrandVs  Scourging  of  Christ,  painted  in  1668,  the  year 
before  his  death ,  are  also  very  valuable  works.  The  portrait  of  a  wo- 
man, No.  348,  is  an  early  work  of  Rembrandt,  whose  pupils  (Eeckhout, 
Flinch,  etc.)  and  contemporaries  (Van  der  Heist,  Pieter  de  Hooch,  and 
others)  are  also  well  represented.  To  an  earlier  period  of  art  belong  a 
Madonna  by  Lucas  van  Leyden,  a  portrait  of  Cardinal  Albrecht  of  Mainz 
by  Lucas  Cranach,  a  landscape  by  P.  Brueghel,  and  several  works  of  the 
Early  Cologne  School  (Presentation  in  the  Temple,  etc.).  The  Italian 
works  are  chiefly  of  the  'Academic  School'  of  the  17th  century. 

Boom  I. :  Modern  pictures  from  the  middle  of  last  century  to  the  pre- 
sent day,  by  Schmidt,  Seekatz  (d.  1768,  who  occupies  among  the  artists 
of  Darmstadt  a  similar  position  to  that  of  Dietrich  among  those  of  Dres- 
den), Schiltz ,  Morgenstern ,  Ac. ,  the  earlier  of  which  should  be  inspected 
in  order  to  contrast  them  with  the  most  modern  school.  To  the  left  on 
entering  (1st  transverse  partition) :  126.  Schilbach,  Roman  landscape.  Second 
partition:  136.  Schirmer,  Heidelberg  Castle;  148,  149,  150,  151.  Achenbach, 
Four  small  Dutch  landscapes.  Principal  wall :  (W.)  56.  Seekatz,  Twelfth 
Night-,  157.  H.  Ho/mann,  Betrayal  of  the  8aviour;  129.  SteinbrUck,  Genovefa; 
(N.)  Radl,  121.  Cronberg,  and  122.  Falkenstein,  both  in  the  Taunus ;  59. 
Seekatz,  Children  in  the  poultry-yard  5  (E.)  Schbnberger,  Sunset. 

Boox  II.:  Partition;  146.  Enhuber,  Court-day;  137.  Lessing,  Evening 
scene  on  the  Moselle ;  145.  Schbn,  Sunday  morningv  in  the  Black  Forest. 


222    Route  30.  DARMSTADT.  From  Frankfort 

Principal  wall:  (W.).134.  Morgenstem ,  Scene  on  the  Isar;  156.  Noack, 
Religious  disputation  between  Luther  and  ZwingH  at  Marburg;  (N.)  Lucas, 
133.  Italian  harvest-scene,  130.  The  Melibocus  seen  from  the  Odenwald; 
166.  Schweich,  Autumn  morning  ;  154.  Becker ,  Glacier-lake  in  Norway. 

Boom  III.  Old  German  School.  The  pictures  in  this  room  form  one 
of  the  best  collections  of  the  works  of  this  school.  In  the  doorway :  224. 
Holbein  the  Elder,  Body  of  Christ  at  the  foot  of  the  cross.  Partition :  Lucas 
Cranach,  244.  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Albert  of  Brandenburg  in  the  character 
of  St.  Jerome,  249.  Virgin  and  Child.  226.  Holbein  the  Younger (7),  Bust 
of  a  youth,  1515;  188.  Claeissens,  Mary  and  Child-,  231.  Wohlgemuth  {7), 
Christ  in  Gethsemane.  Principal  wall :  (W.)  189.  School  of  Memling,  perhaps 
Gerard  Horebout  (1538),  Enthroned  Mary  and  Child;  185.  Unknown  Master, 
Dying  Mary ;  168.  Stephan  Lochner,  the  master  of  the  Dombild  at  Cologne, 
Presentation  in  the  Temple:  (N.)  216.  Reliquary  from  the  church  of  Wolfs- 
kehlen,  date  1500;  (£.)  217.  M.  Schongauer  (7),  Scourging  of  Christ. 

Room  IV.  Netherlands  Masters.  Partition:  *321.  Van  Dpck  (d.  1641), 
Portrait  of  the  painter  Erasmus  Quellyn ;  339.  Sal.  Ruysdael,  Dutch  street ; 
*361.  Adr.  van  Ostade,  Peasants  dancing,  an  early  work,  dated  1636; 
•356-358.  Thos.  de  Keyser,  Portraits;  336.  Wynante,  Landscape.  1676;  "271. 
P.  Brueghel  the  Elder,  Landscape  with  peasants  dancing,  1568;  345.  Adr. 
Brouwer,  Two  peasants  singing;  350a.  Sandvoort,  Portrait  of  a  girl;  395. 
P.  Potter  CO,  Stable;  854.  Ferd.  Bol,  Holy  Family;  *296.  Rubens,  Satyrs 
and  Nymphs  with  game  and  fruit;  the  nymph  with  the  red  robe  is  the 
master's  first  wife,  the  one  with  the  hare  his  second  (copy  in  Dresden). 
*386,  *387.  Gerbr.  van  den  Eeckhout,  Portraits. 

Room  V.  433.  Fred.  Vroom,  Portrait  of  himself;  425.  Egb.  van  Heems- 
kerk,  Saying  grace;  363.  D.  Tenters  the  Younger,  Old  man;  *348.  Rem- 
brandt, Portrait  of  his  wife  Saskia ;  376,  377.  Gonzales  Coquet,  Portraits. 

Room  VI.  Front  of  partition :  370.  Van  der  Heist,  Bust  of  an  old  man ; 
315.  Honthorst,  Portrait  of  a  lady.  Back  of  partition :  378.  Govaert  Flinek, 
Woman  cleansing  her  boy's  head;  405.  P.  de  Hooch,  Interior.  Principal 
wall:  (N.)  *347.  Rembrandt,  Christ  about  to  be  scourged  (1668);  *369.  Van 
der  Heist,  Portrait  of  a  lady;  350.  A.  van  Gelder  (pupil  of  Rembrandt). 
Presentation  in  the  Temple ;  (S.)  424.  Schalcken,  William  III.  of  England 
by  torch-light;  349.  Eeckhout,  The  disciples  at  Emmaus;  389.  A.  van  Ever- 
dingen,  Landscape. 

Room  VII.  French  works  of  inferior  value:  482.  /.  Jouvenet,  Madonna 
and  Child;  475.  Le  Sueur,  Christ  restoring  the  Young  Man  of  Nain;  489, 
490.  Van  Loo,  Portrait  of  Louis  XV.  and  his  Queen  Maria  Lesczinska; 
511.  Sonntag,  View  of  Darmstadt  in  1746  (taken  from  the  window  op- 
posite); 488.  Rigaud,  Portrait  of  Cardinal  Fleury;  492.  F.  Boucher,  Sleeping 
nymphs  and  satyrs. 

Room  VIII.  8panish  and  Italian  Masters:  269.  Netherlandish  School, 
Madonna  with  the  Holy  Child  and  John  the  Baptist;  547.  Carlo  Caliari, 
Venus  and  Adonis;  527.  Ascribed  to  Correggio,  Young  shepherd  (really  a 
later  work  of  no  great  value);  67.  Raphael  Mengs,  St.  Sebastian;  *®38. 
Velasquez,  Portrait  of  a  girl;  586.  Cignani,  Madonna;  520.  Titian,  Sleeping 
Venus  (according  to  Mr.  Crowe  an  original,  ruined  by  restoration). 

Room  IX.  554.  Schidone,  John  the  Baptist  in  the  desert ;  611.  Mttrillo, 
Carthusian  monk ;  623.  Pompeo  Batumi,  Portrait ;  268.  Netherlandish  School, 
Madonna  and  Child;  535.  Copy  of  Paolo  Veronese,  Wedding  at  Cana 
(original  in  the  Louvre) ;  642.  Spanish  School,  Angel  and  Maiden ;  523.  The 
Baptist  in  the  wilderness,  a  weak  copy  of  Raphael ;  533.  Tintoretto,  Portrait. 
By  the  windows ;  *639.  Velazquez,  Mother  of  a  dead  child  kneeling  before 
»  bishop;  570.  Velazquez,  Portrait;  *529.  Paris  Bordone,  Portrait  of  a 
general,  in  admirable  preservation ;  571.  Pietro  da  Cortona,  Angel  appearing 
to  Hagar  and  Ishmael;  "519.  Tintoretto  (wrongly  attributed  to  Titian), 
Portrait  of  a  nobleman,  dated  1562. 

The  two  adjoining  rooms  contain  the  valuable  collection  of  objects 
of  Natural  Histobt.  Halfway  up  the  staircase  to  the  next  floor  are 
two  rooms  containing  Plaster  Casts. 

The  other  Collections  are  on  the  second  floor. 


to  Heidelberg.  DARMSTADT.  30.  Route.     223 

Room  I.  Roman  Antiquities:  a  'Mosaic  Pavement,  80  ft.  in  length, 
20  ft.  in  breadth,  excavated  near  Yilbel  in  1849;  model  of  an  apparatus 
for  evaporating  salt,  excavated  at  Nauheim  in  1854,  with  a  clay  vessel  which' 
formed  part  of  it ;  bronze  tools  and  a  helmet  from  a  tomb  near  Nauheim ; 
smaller  Germanic  and  Roman  antiquities.  —  Room  II.  Cork  Model*  of 
Roman  edifices,  ancient  ornaments  in  gold  and  silver,  goblets,  enamels 
of  the  early  Lower  Rhine  School  and  of  Limoges,  beautiful  ivory  carving, 
stained  glass,  coins.  —  Room  III,  IV.  Collection  of  the  .weapons,  flags, 
and  equipments  of  the  Hessian  regiments  from  the  earliest  times  to  the 
present  day.  —  Room  V.  *  Armour  and  weapons,  curious  helmets,  shields, 
and  targes.  —  Room  VI.  Model  of  the  palace,  costumes  and  utensils  of 
foreign  nations,  Ac.  —  Room  VII.  Drawings  and  Engraving*,  ancient  and 
modern;  among  the  former  are' the  sketches  of  Rottmann  for  the  Italian 
landscapes  in  the  arcades  at  Munich,  an  early  sketch  in  sepia  (afterwards 
considerably  altered)  by  Ph.  Veit.  for  his  large  fresco  in  the  Stadel  Insti- 
tute at  Frankfort  (see  p.  213),  and  a  cartoon  of  'The  Last  Judgment',  alBO 
by  Veit. 

Other  rooms  contain  the  valuable  Collection  of  Mineral*,  Conehyliay 
and  *Fos*U* ,  skeletons  of  antediluvian  animals  found  near  Eppelsheim  in 
Rheinhessen,  the  skeletons  of  a  mastodon,  13  ft.  in  height,  purchased  at 
London  in  1857,  and  of  a  gigantic  stag  (Cervu*  Irlandicut). 

To  the  N.  of  the  Palace,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Herrengarten,  or 
public  grounds,  is  the  Theatre  (PI.  31;  D,2),  rebuilt  since  its 
destruction  by  Are  in  1871,  with  a  port! oo  belonging  to  the  older 
building.  To  the  left  is  the  Exenierhaus  (PI.  32),  now  an  artillery- 
arsenal.  In  front  of  it  stands  the  War  Monument,  commemorative 
of  the  campaign  of  1870-71,  cast  in  1879  from  the  model  of  Herzig. 
Between  the  Exerzierhaus  and  the  Theatre  are  Statues  (PI.  18, 19), 
by  Scholl,  of  the  Landgrave  Philip  the  Generous  (d.  1567),  and  his 
son  George  I.  (d.  1596),  founder  of  the  grand-ducal  family. 

In  the  Herrbngartbn  (PI.  0,  1,  2),  which  is  well  laid  out, 
with  pleasant  walks,  to  the  right,  is  the  tomb  of  the  Landgravine 
Henrietta  Carolina  (d.  1774;  PI.  8),  mother  of  the  queen  of  Fred- 
erick William  II.  of  Prussia ;  the  unpretending  urn  erected  by  Fred- 
erick the  Great  bears  the  inscription :  lFemina  sexu,  ingenio  vir\ 

The  Renaissance  Bathhaus  (PI.  28),  in  the  Markt  (PI.  C,  3),  was 
built  by  George  I.  The  Stadtkirche  (PI.  15 ;  C,  D,  3),  in  the  Kirch- 
Strasse,  possesses  a  Gothic  choir  and  some  Renaissance  monuments. 

The  modern  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  12 ;  usual  entrance 
at  the  S.E.  angle),  in  the  Wilhelminen-Platz,  contains  the  well-exe- 
cuted marble  sarcophagus  of  the  Grand  Duchess  Mathilde  of  Hessen 
(d.  1862),  with  a  recumbent  figure  of  the  princess  by  Widnmann. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  Platz  is  the  new  Palace  of  the  Grand  Duke 
(PI.  24),  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style.  The  Palace  of  Prince 
Alexander  (PI.  21 ;  B,3)  contains  a  fine  collection  of  coins. 

The  Palacb  of  the  Widow  op  Prinob  Charles  (PI.  22 ;  C,  5), 
in  the  Wilhelminen-Strasse,  contains  the  celebrated  **Madonna 
with  the  family  of  Burgomaster  Meyer  of  Bale,  by  Holbein  the 
Younger ,  executed  in  1526,  and  ascertained  since  the  Holbein  Ex- 
hibition at  Dresden  in  1871  to  be  an  original  work  of  the  master. 
(Visitors  apply  for  admission  in  the  passage,  to  which  a  short  flight 
of  steps  ascends ;  fee  1  m.) 


224   Route  30.  BERGSTRA8SE.  From  Frankfort 

There  is  an  excellent  collection  of  early  German',  Dutch,  and 
other  paintings  at  No.  8  Zimmer-Str.,  the  property  of  Dr.  Schafer. 

The  Technical  School  (PI.  26;  D,  3,4),  in  the  Capell-Str.,  is 
admirably  equipped  with  teaching  apparatus,  but  is  architecturally 
uninteresting.  Opposite  to  it  rises  the  Neue  Realschule,  a  more  im- 
posing edifice,  beyond  which  stands  the  lPadagog\  built  in  1627 
for  the  gymnasium  founded  in  that  year.  The  modern  -  Gothic 
Stadt-Capelle  (PI.  14)  in  the  adjoining  grounds  is  an  elegant  struc- 
ture. —  Opposite  the  Station  (Hess.  Ludwigs-Bahnhof)  are  the 
Bank  fur  Handel  und  Industrie  and  the  Bank  fur  Sud-Deutschland, 
both  built  in  1875  (PI.  2,  3 ;  A,  2).  In  front  of  the  stations  is  a 
monument  to  Liebig,  the  chemist  (b.  at  Darmstadt  in  1803,  d.  1873). 
In  the  Rhein-Strasse  is  the  large  new  Post  Office. 

At  Rosenhohe  (p.  230),  »/4  M.  to  the  K.  of  Darmstadt,  is  the 
Grand-ducal  Mausoleum ,  containing  the  remains  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Lewis  III  (d.  1877)  and  the  Princess  Alice  of  England  (d. 
1878),  wife  of  the  Grand  Duke  Lewis  IV.  The  *Tomb  of  the  Prin- 
cess Elizabeth,  who  died  at  the  age  of  5*/2  years,,  with  a  recumbent 
figure  in  marble,  is  by  Ranch  (1831). 

The  extensive  woods  near  Darmstadt  afford  numerous  pictur- 
esque walks,  the  favourite  of  which  are  to  the  KarUhof  (*/2M.$ 
comp.  PI.  D,2),  to  the  Fasanerie  (iy2  M.,  comp.  PI.  D,2),  to  the 
shao ting-lodge  of  Kranichstein,  to  Einsiedel{%  M.),  and  to  the  Lud- 
wigshohe  (2  M.), 

From  Darmstadt  to  Worms,  27'/iM.,  railway  in  1-I7«hr.  (fares  3  m.  80, 
2  m.  56,  or  1  m.  66  pf.).  6  H.  Qrietheim,  with  an  extensive  artillery- 
range  and  camp.  9  M .  Wolfs kehlen;  10  M.  Goddelau-Erfelden,  the  junction 
of  the  Frankfort  and  Mannheim  line  (p.  213),  which  coincides  with  the 
Worms  line  as  far  as  (21  M.)  Biblis.  23'/2  M.  ffofheim,  the  junction  of  the 
Bensheim  and  Worms  line  (p.  226).  26  H.  Rosengarten,  where  passengers 
cross  the  river  by  a  steam-ferry.  261/*  M.  Worms-Hafen.  The  train  now 
makes  a   circuit  round  the  N.  side  of  the  town.    27L/2  M.   Worm*,  p.  244. 

From  Darmstadt  to  Mayknck  ,  20  M. ,  railway  in  36-66  min.  (fares 
2  m.  80,  1  m.  90,  1  m.  20  pf. ;  express  3  m.  40,  2  m.  25  pf.).  —  4>/a  M.  Wet- 
ter s'adt.  9  M.  Orotsgerau,  whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Dornheim  on 
the  'Riedbahn'  (p.  213).  lO1/*  H.  Nauheim.  151/*  M.  BUchofsheim ,  the 
junction  for  the  Frankfort  line  (p.  213).  The  train  now  crosses  the  Rhine 
and  the  Ludwigshafen  railway  (p.  243)  and  reaches  (20  M .)  Mavence  (p.  136). 

From  Darmstadt  to  Mannheim  by  the  'Riedbahn',  387s  M. ;  fares 
4  m.  85,  2  m.  90,  1  m.  90  pf.  To  Goddelau-Erfelden,  see  above;  thence  to 
Mannheim,  see  p.  213. 

From  Darmstadt  to  Eberbach,  see  p.  230. 


2OV2  M.  Eber8tadt-Pfung6tadt ;  the  latter,  a  busy  little  manu- 
facturing town ,  lies  1 1/4  M.  to  the  W. ,  the  former  1  M.  to  the  K. 
of  the  station.  Near  this  point  begins  the  Bergstrasse,  an  old 
road  originally  constructed  by  the  Romans ,  skirting  the  fruit  and 
vine-clad  W.  slopes  of  the  Odenwald  (to  which  the  name  'Berg- 
strasse' is  sometimes  applied  in  a  wider  sense),  and  leading  to  Hei- 
delberg. —  On  the  hills  to  the  left  rises  the  handsome  ruined  castle 
of  Frankenstein  (1110  ft.),  commanding  a  splendid  *View  (Inn). 


10-: 


to  Heidelberg.  AUERBACH.  30.  Route.     225 

25  M.  Bickenbach  is  the  station  for  (13/4  M.  distant ;  post-omni- 
bus three  times  daily,  40  pf. ;  during  summer  carriages  await  every 
train)  Jugenheim  (*  Loos,*  Rind  fuss,  'pension'  at  both  4y2  m. ;  Belle- 
we,  well  spoken  of),  a  favourite  summer-resort,  with  pleasant  villas. 
Tour  in  the  Odenwald,  see  p.  228.  —  Ascent  of  the  Melibocus, 
see  below.  At  Seeheim  (*Hufnagel,  'pens.'  4m. ;  carriages  at  the 
station),  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  Jugenheim,  there  is  a  grand-ducal 
chateau,  the  garden  of  which  is  open  to  the  public.  Above  Seeheim 
rises  the  mined  castle  of  Tanncnberg,  destroyed  in  1399;  it  is 
scarcely  visible  from  below.  —  To  the  left  of  the  railway,  farther 
on,  rises  the  pinnacled  tower  of  the  Alsbacher  Schloss ,  which  may 
be  reached  in  i/2  hr.  from  Zwingenberg. 

27  M.  Zwingenberg  (*Lowc,  with  garden,  R.  1  m.  20,  D.  1  m. 
70  pf.,  'pension'  4  m.),  an  old  town,  with  1700  inhabitants. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Melibocus  takes  1  hr.  from  Zwingenberg,  and 
't  hr.  from  Jugenheim.  Guide  (unnecessary')  1  m.  •,  carriage  to  the  top 
-12  m.  —  From  Jugenheim  via  the  Melibocus  and  the  Auerbacher 
Schloss  to  Auerbach  3  hours.  Besides  the  old  and  the  new  path  ascending 
the  mountain ,  there  is  a  third,  slightly  longer,  via  the  ruined  castle  of 
Jos$a.    The  three  paths  unite  halfway  up  the  hill  p/4  hr.  from  Jugenheim). 

From  Zwingenberg,  the  road  leads  E.  from  the  "Ldwe"  and  ascends 
the  hill)  after  8  min.  the  path  follows  the  water-conduit  to  the  right, 
leads  over  the  Luzieberg;  and  in  25  min.  more  regains  the  carriage-road, 
which  is  furnished  with  direction-posts. 

The  Melibocus,  or  Halchen  (1679  ft.),  is  the  highest  point  of  the  Berg- 
strasse  and  consists  entirely  of  granite.  On  the  summit  is  a  tower  (80  ft. 
high),  erected  in  1777  by  Louis  IX.,  Landgrave  of  Hessen  (key  and 
refreshments  at  the  forester's;  fee  25  pf.,  for  a  party  1  m.).  The  view 
embraces  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  from  Speyer  to  Mayence ,  the  Vosges, 
the  Donnersberg,  and  the  Main  as  far  as  the  TaunuB  and  Yogelsberg,  and 
the  Odenwald.  —  From  the  Melibocus  a  road,  furnished  with  way-posts 
at  all  doubtful  places,  leads  direct  in  >/<  br.  to  the  Auerbacher  Schloss. 
Descent  from  the  Schloss  to  the  village  of  Auerbach  in  Vs-'A  hour.  —  From 
the  Auerbacher  Schloss  direct  to  the  Fiirstenlager,  see  below. 

291/$j  M.  Auerbach  {Krone,  established  originally  in  the  17th 
cent.;  also  lodgings;  restaurants,  Mohr  and  HesSj  with  gardens; 
carriage-tariff  at  the  station),  a  picturesque  village  of  1500  inhab., 
mentioned  as  early  as  795,  is  a  favourite  summer-resort,  and  affords 
good  head-quarters  for  excursions  in  the  W.  part  of  the  Odenwald 
(p.  227).  Good  wine  is  produced  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  best 
quality  being  called  Rottwein. 

The  ^Auerbacher  Schloss  (3/4  hr.  from  the  Melibocus,  carriage 
road;  same  distance  N.  of  Auerbach,  path  not  to  be  mistaken), 
situated  on  an  eminence  (1053  ft.),  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by 
Charlemagne.  After  1257  it  appears  as  a  fortress  of  the  Counts  of 
Katzenellenbogen,  held  at  first  as  a  flef  of  the  monastery  of  Lorsch 
(see  below) ,  and  then  of  the  Electorate  of  Mayence.  The  present 
building  dates  from  the  15th  cent. ;  in  1674  it  was  blown  up  by 
Turenne.  *View  from  the  towers  less  extensive,  but  more  pictur- 
esque than  that  from  the  Melibocus. 

Environs.  One  of  the  prettiest  points  near  Auerbach  is  the  Fiirsten- 
lager, a  small  chateau  built  during  last  century  by  the  Landgraves  of 
Hessen ,    and  enlarged  by  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria ,   with  a  chalybeate    spring 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  15 


226    Route  30.  WEINHEIM. 

and  charming  grounds.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  road  in  20  min.  from 
the  'Krone'  inn  (or,  pleasanter,  by  turning  to  the  right  by  the  Rathhaus 
and  ascending  past  the  church).  —  The  walk  from  the  Auerbacher  Schloss 
to  the  Fiirstenlager  is  also  pleasant:  we  if  olio  w  the  broad  road  to  the  3£. 
as  far  as  the  mineral  spring  in  the  HoctitUUter  Thai  (refreshments  at  the 
forester's),  pass  the  mill,  and  turn  to  the  W.  to  the  Neun-Autsiehtett. 
('nine  views1),  a  clearing  in  the  wood,  where  nine  different  picturesque 
views  are  obtained  through  the  nine  forest-paths  which  converge  here. 
Farther  on  we  reach  the  Fiirstenlager  (ll/4  hr.  in  all).  —  About  7*  hr.  to 
the  E.  of  the  Fiirstenlager  lies  Schdnberg  (Rettig,  Sonne,  QotUchalk;  VUla 
Schlapp,  with  restaurant,  'pens.''  4  m.),  which  also  attracts  visitors  in 
summer,  with  a  chateau  of  Count  Erbach-Schonberg.  The  Schlossgarten 
and  the  village  church  command  pretty  views.  From  Schonberg  to  Bens- 
heim  through  the  Schonberger  Thai,  V/2  M. 

30  M.  Bensheim  (Traubey  *DeuUches  Haw,  in  the  town ;  *  Ren- 
ter's Hdtel ,  at  the  station  ,  small ;  carriages  according  to  tariff) ,  a 
busy  town  in  a  picturesque  situation  ,  with  5000  inhab. ,  dates  as 
far  back  as  the  8th  century,  and  till  1802  belonged  to  the  Electo- 
rate of  May e nee.  The  two  churches,  Roman  Catholic  and  Protes- 
tant ,  are  both  modern.  The  Rinnenthor,  near  the  station,  is  an 
interesting  relic  of  the  old  fortifications. 

From  Bensheim  to  Lindenfels  (11  M. ;  p.  229)  by  Schimberg  and  Rei- 
chenbach  (3y«  M.),  diligence  once  or  twice  daily. 

From  Benshbim  to  Rosbngabten  (Wobms),  railway  in  36  min.  (comp. 
p.  224).  3  M.  Lorsch  (Hdtel  Bchermuly),  on  the  Weschnitz,  with  ruins  of  a 
monastery  (Laurethamense  Monasterium) ,  founded  in  763  on  an  island  in 
the  Weschnits  and  afterwards  removed  to  its  present  site.  In  788  Charle- 
magne assigned  it  as  a  place  of  banishment  to  Tassilo,  Duke  of  Bavaria, 
who  had  been  condemned  to  death  as  a  traitor.  The  Church  was  conse- 
crated in  1130,  but  portions  of  the  nave  only  are  now  extant.  Adjacent 
is  the  *■  Michaels kapelle'  (so  called  only  since  the  end  of  the  17th  cent.), 
which  is  now  recognised  as  the  chapel  erected  by  Lewis  III.  between 
876  and  882  as  a  mausoleum  for  his  father,  Lewis  the  German.  The 
chapel ,  with  curiously  formed  imposts  and  inlaid  walls,  is  one  of  the 
most  elegant  and  best-preserved  specimens  of  the  architecture  of  the 
period.  Lewis  III.  himself  and  Gunigunde,  wife  of  Emp.  Conrad  I.,  are 
also  interred  here.  The  stone  coffins  seem  to  belong  to  the  Carlovingian 
era.  The  Kibelungen-Lied  represents  the  vaults  at  Lorsch  as  the  burial- 
place  of  Siegfried  and  Queen  Ute  (mother  of  Chriemhilde). 

8  M.    BUrttadt.    lOYs  M.  Hofheim.    13  M.  Rotengarten,  see  p.  224. 

Near  (33  M.)  Heppenheim  (*Ha1ber  Mond,  R.  1  m.  50,  B.  70  pf.), 
to  the  left  of  the  road,  rises  the  Landberg ,  a  hill  crowned  with 
three  trees,  where  the  provincial  tribunals  were  held  in  the  middle 
ages.  The  church  was  founded  by  Charlemagne,  according  to  an 
old  inscription.    The  present  edifice  is  of  Gothic  and  later  times. 

The  Starkenburg  (932  ft.)  is  reached  by  a  good  path  from  Heppen- 
heim in  V2  hour.  It  was  erected  in  1064  by  an  abbot  of  Lorsch,  captured 
by  the  Swedes  and  Spaniards  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  besieged  in  vain 
by  Turenne  in  1674,  and  was  only  recently  quite  abandoned.  It  gives 
its  name  to  a  province  of  Hessen.    Fine  view  from  the  lofty  square  tower. 

The  train  now  enters  the  dominions  of  Baden.  Beyond  (37  M.) 
Hemsbach  it  crosses  the  small  river  Weschnitz,  and  reaches  — 

391/2  M.  Weinheim  ^PfaUer  Hof,  with  garden,  R.  2  m.,  B. 
70  pf.,  'pension'  5  m.),  a  small  town  of  7100  inhab.,  lying  at  the 
union  of  the  pleasant  valleys  of  Qorxheim  and  Birkenau ,  and  the 
most  important  and  most  beautifully  situated  town  on  the  Berg- 


*'-£-. 


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THE  ODENWALD.  31.  Route.    227 

strasse.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the  Abbey  of  Lorsoh,  and  is  of  an- 
cient origin,  though  owing  to  its  destruction  during  the  Thirty 
Years'  War,  and  again  in  the  devastation  of  the  Palatinate  in  1689, 
there  are  few  old  buildings  of  any  importance.  A  few  towers  be- 
longing to  the  former  fortifications,  the  House  of  the  Teutonic  Order 
(now  a  government-office) ,  and  the  Gothic  Rathhaus  are  the  only 
relics  of  its  former  prosperity.  The  Gothic  towers  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  church  and  the  Bcrkheim'sche  Schloss  are  modern.  Ben*- 
der's  School  for  Boys  attracts  numerous  pupilB  from  different  parts 
of  Germany.  —  Hubberger,  the  best  wine  of  the  Bergs trasse,  is 
produced  near  Weinheim. 

To  the  £.  rises  the  old  castle  of  Wmdeck  (685  ft.),  with  its 
high  conical  'Bergfried'  tower ,  the  property  of  the  monastery  of 
Lorsch  in  the  12th  cent. ,  afterwards  that  of  the  Palatinate ,  com- 
manding a  beautiful  view.  —  From  Weinheim  to  Fiirth,  10^2  M. , 
diligence  twice  a  day,  see  p.  229. 

At  (43  M.)  Gross-Sachsen ,  a  village  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Charlemagne ,  the  line  leaves  the  Bergstrasse.  —  46  M.  Laden- 
burg  (Rose)  j  the  Roman  Lupodunum ,  the  walls ,  towers ,  and  fine 
old  Gothic  church  (14th  cent.)  of  which  give  it  an  air  of  importance. 
The  Neckar  is  crossed  here  by  a  bridge  of  red  sandstone. 

48  M.  Friedrichsfeld,  where  the  lines  to  Heidelberg  and  Mann- 
heim (each  about  15  min.  distant  by  train)  separate.  —  A  bran  oh - 
luie  leads  hence  to  (3*/2  M.)  Schwetzingen  (p.  240). 

54i/2M.  Heidelberg,  see  p.  232.—  54  M.  Yannheim,  see  p.240. 

The  Bergatraste  is  most  attractive  between  Weinheim  and  Heidelberg 
-  (12  M.),  and  is  recommended  to  the  notice  of  pedestrians.  The  *High 
Road  leads  through  (3  M.)  Gross- SacMen  (good  red  wine)  and  (3  M.) 
Schriesheim,  where  the  Strahlenburg  (698  ft.)  is  seen  in  the  background. 
Then  (3*/4  M.)  Handschachsfwitn  (Zum  rothen  Ochsen,  much  frequented  by 
Heidelberg  students),  and  (H/a  M.)  Neuehheim  (Rose),  where  the  Neckar  is 
reached,  and  Heidelberg  (R.  32),  with  its  castle  and  the  Konigsstuhl  in  the 
rear,  first  becomes  visible.    Best  view  from  the  new  bridge  (p.  238). 

31.  The  Odenwald, 

The  Odenwald,  the  wooded  mountain-district  between  Darmstadt  and 
Heidelberg ,  is  about  40  H.  in  length  and  24-30  M.  in  breadth.  The 
highest  points  are  the  Katzenbuckel  (1959  ft.,  see  p.  239),  the  Neunkircher 
Hiihe  (1869  ft.,  see  p.  228),  the  Dromm  (1834  ft.,  see  p.  229),  the  Melibocxa 
(1679  ft.,  see  p.  225),  and  the  Felsberg  (1624  ft.,  see  below).  This  district 
is  picturesque  and  interesting  at  places,  although ,  like  its  inns,  inferior 
to  the  Black  Forest. 

a.  Western  Portion. 

One  Day  :  From  Bickenbach  to  the  FeUberg  2  hrs. ,  thence  to  Linden- 
feU  33/4  hrs.  (diligence  from  Ben  she  im,  see  p.  226),  and  drive  in  2y«  hrs. 
through  the  valley  of  the  Weschnitt  to  Birkenau  and  Weinheim;  or,  if  pos- 
sible, walk  from  Birkenau  to  Weinheim  over  the  Wagenberg,  iy«  hour. 

Two  Days:  1st.  As  above  to  Linden/els;  2nd.  Cross  the  Dromm  to 
Waldmichelbach  in  31/?  hrs. ,  thence  by  Ober-  and  Unter-Sch&nmattenteag  to 
Hirschhorn  3y«  brs.  (or  by  Seh&nau  to  Neckartteinaeh  5  hrs.),  and  by  the 
new  Neckar  railway  to  Heidelberg. 

15* 


228    Route  31.  REIOHENBAOH;  Odenwald. 

Bickenbach  (p.  225)  is  the  best  starting-point  for  a  ramble  in 
this  district.  Thence  to  the  E.  to  (13/4M.)  Jugenheim  (p.  225),  in 
the  middle  of  which  a  road  to  the  right  ascends  through  well-kept 
grounds ,  passing  (l/^  hr.)  a  ruined  Monastery  (a  few  paces  to  the 
right),  with  some  tombstones  of  1480  in  the  wall.  (Near  the  mon- 
astery is  an  old  lime-tree,  the  'Centlinde',  marking  the  place  of 
meeting  of  a  'Centgericht',  or  Court  of  a  Hundred;  in  front  of  it 
is  a  conspicuous  gilded  Russian  cross.)  Beyond  the  monastery  the 
route  soon  reaches  the  (7  min.)  chateau  of  Heiligenberg,  the  resi- 
dence of  Prince  Alexander  of  Hessen  (fine  view  from  the  ter- 
race). We  next  ascend  to  the  right  through  the  grounds,  and, 
at  the.  finger -post  indicating  the  way  (*  Wahelminenweg' )  to  the 
Felsberg,  turn  to  the  left  round  the  hill,  whence  a  pleasing 
glimpse  of  the  chateau  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  is  obtained. 
Following  the  direction  indicated  by  various  way-posts,  we  reach, 
in  IV2  hx.  froin  Jugenheim,  the  forester's  house  on  the  Telsberg 
(1624  ft. ;  refreshments  and  a  few  beds).  The  view  to  the  E. 
embraces  a  great  part  of  the  Odenwald,  and  extends  to  the  Spessart 
and  Aschaffenburg  (much  more  extensive  than  from  the  Melibocus). 

From  the  Melibocus  to  the  Felsberg  (iy2  hr.).  The  path  (sign- 
posts) ascends  from  the  Balkhauser  Thai,  which  separates  the  two  hills, 
on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  Felsberg. 

From  Auerbach  (p.  225)  to  the  Felsberg  (2-272  hrs.).  We  may  either 
ascend  through  the  Hochstatter  Thai  (to  the  left  on  entering  the  village) 
past  Hochst&tten,  or  by  the  path  over  the  FUrstenlager.  The  last  route  is 
somewhat  more  difficult  to  find,  but  both  are  furnished  with  guide- 
posts.  In  returning  we  take  the  beautiful  road  called  the  'Neun  Krilmme\ 
leading  first  through  wood,  then  across  fields  to  Ballhauten,  and  to 
the  left  through  a  wood  which  it  afterwards  skirts,  and  finally  reaching 
(IV2  hr.)  the  Auerbacher  Schloss. 

From  the  Felsberg  to  Gross-Bieberau  (p.  290),  in  41/*  hours.  The 
road  passes  Brandau,  the  Neunkireher  Hdhe  (1869  ft.  •,  *View,  Inns,  poor), 
Steinau,  Billings,  Oberhausen,  Niederhausen ,  and  the  foot  of  the  Lichten- 
berg  (p.  230). 

About  1/4  M.  from  the  Forester's  house  lies  the  Attarstein,  a 
block  of  syenite,  nearly  cubic  in  form,  bearing  traces  of  an  attempt 
to  hew  it  into  lengths  for  a  huge  architrave ;  lower  down,  in  a  small 
gully,  is  the  ' Riesensdule\  a  column  of  the  same  material,  30  ft.  in 
length,  and  3-472  ft.  thick,  with  a  notch  l1/^  inch  deep  in  the 
middle.  There  is  no  doubt  that  an  old  Roman  quarry  once  existed 
here,  which  perhaps  also  furnished  the  columns  on  the  Schloss- 
brunnen  at  Heidelberg.  The  Felsenmeer  ('sea  of  rocks') ,  on  the 
side  of  a  hill  on  the  road  to  Reichenbach ,  near  the  Riesensaule, 
consists  of  rounded  blocks  of  syenite  scattered  in  huge  and  con- 
fused masses,  covering  an  area  of  500  paces  by  200. 

The  path  now  descends  rapidly  to  Reichenbach  (Krone,  Traube, 
Zur  Riesensaule) ,  a  village  on  the  Lautcrbach,  2*/2  M.  from  the 
Felsberg,  and  4*/2  M.  to  the  N.  E.  of  Bensheim  (p.  226). 

We  cross  the  brook  here,  and  follow  the  high-road  which 
leads  up  the  valley  to  Lindenfels ,  but  quit  it  after  3/4  M.,  and 
ascend  a  path  to  the  right,  past  some  old  copper-mines,  to  the 


Odenwald.  DBOMM.  31.  Routt.    229 

(lOmin.)  Hohenstein,  a  group  of  quartzose  rocks  commanding  a  very 
pleasing  prospect.  After  5  min.  more,  we  ascend  to  the  left,  then 
(25  min.)  pass  some  houses  of  Unter-Reidelbach,  and,  near  Qadern- 
heim,  return  to  the  above-mentioned  main  road  (74  hr.) ,  which  is 
not  again  to  be  quitted.  The  walk  from  Reichenbach  to  Lindenfels 
is  picturesque,  but  without  much  variety. 

About  72  M.  from  tne  point  where  we  regain  the  high-road, 
we  pass  through  the  hamlet  of  Kolmbach  (good  wine  at  the  burgo- 
master's), and  about  %  M.  farther  reach  a  group  of  trees  with  a 
bench,  whence  a  remarkably  fine  view  is  enjoyed. 

The  road  now  leads  through  beautiful  beech-wood,  interspersed 
with  boulders  of  granite,  to  (27?  M.)  Lindenfels  (Hessischea  Haus ; 
Harfe;  Odcnwald),  a  favourite  summer-resort  (1000  inhab.),  the 
finest  point  in  the  Odeiiwald ,  picturesquely  situated  on  an  emin- 
ence. It  is  commanded  by  a  large  ruined  "Chateau ,  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Palatinate.   The  old  town-gates  are  still  extant. 

On  the  beautiful  wooded  mountain  to  the  E.  is  the  *Ludwig8- 
hohe,  a  small  temple,  1  M.  from  Lindenfels,  commanding  a  fine  view. 
The  prospect  is  more  extensive  from  a  point  V4  nr-  higher  up. 

From  Lindenfels  to  Bensheim  (p.  226),  11  M.,  diligence  twice 
daily  in  2  hours. 

From  Lindbnpbls  to  Wbinhbim,  a  drive  of  272  hrs.  (carr.  10- 
12  m.)  by  the  high-road  through  the  valley  of  the  Weschnitz.  Ped- 
estrians should  descend  to  the  S.  of  Lindenfels;  after  10 min.  the 
path  leads  to  the  left  through  wood,  and,  in  25  min.  more,  over  a 
slight,  fir-clad  eminence;  10  min.,  Furth  (Lowe),  a  small  town  on 
the  Weschnitz,  through  the  valley  of  which  the  road  winds. 

Diligence  from  Fiirth  to  Weinheim,  once  daily,  passing  (3  M.) 
Rimbach  (Nic.  Geist),  (3  M.)  Mdrlenbach  (Krone),  (274  M.)  ReUsen, 
and  (274  M.)  Birkenau  (Reinig  zum  Birkenauer  Thai),  one  of  the 
prettiest  spots  in  the  valley,  with  the  chateau  and  park  of  Baron 
von  Wambolt.  —  2»/4  M.  Weinheim,  see  p.  226. 

Walkers  from  Birkenau  to  Weinheim  (l1/?  hr.)  should  take  the  route 
over  the  *Wagenberg  (guide  necessary  to  the  point  where  the  wood  is 
quitted),  as  it  commands  the  finest  views. 


Travellers  desirous  of  spending  several  days  in  the  Odenwald  should 

Sroceed  from  Fiirth  (see  above)  in  a  S.E.  direction  to  the  (l1/*  hr.)  Dromm, 
y  a  footpath  which  can  hardly  be  mistaken  (safer  to  take  a  guide).  The 
Dromm  (1834  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  Odenwald,  commands 
a  good  survey  or  the  valley  of  the  Weschnitz;  the  best  point  of  view  is 
the  'Stein1,  a  riven  mass  of  rock  to  the  right  of  the  path.  Thence  de- 
scend by  shady  paths  to  Waldmichelbach  (Lvppi  ^chdne  Aussicht),  a  small 
town  with  3000  inhab.,  41/2  M.  from  the  Dromm,  9  M.  from  Lindenfels, 
and  14  M.  from  Weinheim  (by  Oberabtsteinach  and  Birkenau). 

[About  6  M.  to  the  N.  lies  Qrasellenbach  (Bauer),  in  the  wood  on  the 
hill  above  which  (V2  hr.)  is  a  spring,  popularly  supposed  to  be  the  spot 
where  Siegfried  was  slain  by  Hagen,  as  narrated  in  the  4Nibelungen-Lied\ 
A  small  monument  was  erected  here  in  1861.] 

From  Waldmichelbach  we  follow  the  high-road  to  Ober-ScMnmatten- 
toug,  and  then  descend  the  grassy  valley  of  the  Lax  by  Unter-SchGnmatUn- 
wag,  Corsita,  Beddesbach,  and  Langenthal  to  (10»/a  M.)  Birschhorn  (p.  239). 


230    Route  31.  HOCHST.  OdenwaJd. 

Another  road  leads  from  Waldmichelbach  by  Siedelsbrunn  and  Heilig- 
kreuzsteinach  to  (12  M.)  Schdnan  (Litoe),  an  old  town  standing  on  the  ruins 
of  a  once  rich  and  celebrated  Cistercian  monastery,  founded  in  1136,  and 
presented  in  1560  by  Elector  Palatine  Frederick  III.  to  some  French 
refugees,  who  built  the  village.  The  church  of  the  monastery  was  destroyed 
during  the  Thirty  Years1  War-,  the  present  Protestant  Church  was  formerly 
the  refectory.  From  Schonau  through  the  romantic  valley  of  the  Steinach 
to  (3  M.)  Neckarsteinach  (p.  239). 


b.  Eastern  Portion. 

Odenwald  Railway  (Hess.  Ludwigsbahn).  From  Darmstadt  to  Eberbach, 
50  M.,  in  3hrs.  (opened  in  Hay,  1882). 

The  train  skirts  the  N.  and  £.  sides  of  Darmstadt,  passing  sta- 
tion Rosenhohe  (p.  224),  and  then  turns  to  the  S.,  traversing  ex- 
tensive woods.  —  57$  M.  Nieder-Ramstadt-Tratea,  places  much 
visited  from  Darmstadt ;  fine  view  from  the  station.  The  train  now 
reaches  the  mountains,  and  turns  to  the  E.  —  7^2  M.  Ober-Ram- 
stadt;  12y2M.  Reinheim,  an  old  town  with  1500inhab.,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Oersprenz  with  the  Wembach. 

From  Reinheim  to  Lindenfels,  5Vs  hrs.,  a  pleasant  excursion  up  the 
busy  Gersprenzthal  (diligence  to  Brensbach,  5M.,  twice  daily;  to  Reichels- 
heim,  11  M.,  once  daily).  At  (l»/4  M.)  Gro*s-Bieberau  (*Ruths),  a  favourite 
summer-resort,  walkers  quit  the  road,  which  goes  on  to  Brensbach  (Post), 
Gerspreng,  and  Reichelsheim  in  the  valley  of  the  Gersprenz,  and  ascend  the 
valley  of  the  small  Fischbach  to  the  8.  The  shady  path  passes  through 
the  Leidert  and  leads  via  Rodau  to  (IV4  hr.)  the  chateau  of  *Lichtenberg. 
the  greater  part  of  which  was  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  about  1570-80 
(fine  view).  We  then  descend  by  Obernhausen  to  (*A  hr.)  Ncnrod^  whence  we 
proceed,  with  the  aid  of  a  guide,  through,  the  lower  woods  on  the  left  to 
Erlau,  the  ruined  castle  of  Rodenttein  (see  below),  situated  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  and  (1  hr.)  Fr&nkisch-Crumbach  (Horr),  the  property  of  Baron 
Gemmingen,  and  once  the  seat  of  the  barons  of  Rodenstein,  several  of  whose 
tombstones  are  preserved  in  the  church.  Thence  in  3U  hr.  more  to  Rei- 
chelsheim (p.  231),  where  we  rejoin  the  road,  which  leads  us  to  (4V«  M.) 
Lindenfels  (p.  229).  —  [A  route  ltyt  hr.  shorter,  and  better  shaded,  but 
not  easily  found,  leaves  Gross-Bieberau  opposite  Ruths'  Inn,  crosses  the 
Fischbach,  and  ascends  direct  to  the  S.,  through  the  wood,  without  touch- 
ing Lichtenberg,  to  (IV2  hr.)  Nonrod.  Thence  in  1  hr.  to  the  Rodenstein 
and  in  l8/4  hr.  by  the  Freiheit  and  the  Winterkcutener  Hdhe  to  Lindenfels.] 

15V2  M.  Lengfeld,  whence  the  Otzberg  (1200  ft.),  to  the  S.,  may 
be  ascended  in  3/4  hr. ;  at  the  top,  near  which  lies  the  little  town 
of  Hering  ('Hon' ring') ,  is  the  well-preserved  castle  of  that  name, 
with  a  massive  tower  (extensive  view).  Descent  via  Zipfen  (*Inn), 
or  to  Wiebelsbach,  the  following  railway-station  (1772  M.).  Branch- 
line  thence  to  the  N.  to  Babenhausen  and  Asohaffenburg. 

25  M.  Hochst  (*Zur  Post ;  Burg  Br  tub  erg ;  Zur  Eiseribahn),  a 
town  with  1500  inhab.,  lies  in  the  valley  of  the  Mumling,  which 
the  train  now  ascends  to  Erbach. 

About  21/t  M.  lower  down  the  pleasant  Miimlingthal  (diligence  twice 
a  day)  lies  Neustadt-an-der-Miimling  (Zum  Ochsen),  above  which  rises  the 
ruined  castle  of  Breuberg  (450  ft. ;  restaurant),  with  extensive  fortifications 
of  the  first  half  of  the  16th  century. 

22y2  M.  Mumling-Qrumbach ;  25  M.  Konig  (Buchner),  with  a 
loftily  situated  church ;  27  M.  ZelL     The  valley  contracts.     We 


Odenwald.  MICHELSTADT.  32.  Routt.     231 

next  pass  the  village  of  Steinbach ,  with  a  ruined  monastery,  the 
church  of  which ,  founded  in  821  by  Eginhard ,  the  biographer  of 
Charlemagne,  is  still  tolerably  preserved ;  then  Schloss  Furstenau, 
with  four  towers  and  a  shady  park,  which  has  been  the  seat  of  the 
Counts  of  Erbach-Furstenau  since  the  14th  century. 

29y2  M.  Michelstadt  (862  ft. ;  •Lowe,  in  the  market;  Schwan; 
Dr.  Spiess's  Hydropathic  Establishment),  a  town  with  3200  inhab., 
the  capital  of  the  Odenwald,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  741 , 
lies  in  one  of  the  prettiest  parts  of  the  Mumlingthal.  The  Parish 
Church,  a  late-Gothic  building  of  the  15th  and  16th  cent.,  con- 
tains numerous  tombstones  of  Counts  of  Erbach  of  the  14-17th  cen- 
turies. The  Rathhaus  and  some  other  buildings  are  interesting 
examples  of  timber-architecture.  The  Market  Fountain  dates  from 
1541.   A  few  relics  of  the  old  fortifications  still  exist. 

A  road  and  a  footpath  lead  from  Michelstadt  to  the  W.  to  (10  M.) 
Reiehelaheim  (*Volk),  a  prettily  situated  village,  commanded  by  the  conspi- 
cuous ruin  of  Reichenberg.  In  a  sequestered  hilly  and  wooded  region,  tyj  hr. 
to  the  N.  of  this  point,  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  *Rodenstein,  from  which, 
according  to  the  popular  legend,  when  a  war  is  about  to  break  out,  the  wild 
huntsman  and  his  train  gallop  with  fearful  din  to  the  castle  of  Schnellerts, 
4  M.  to  the  E.  —  From  Beichelsheim  to  Linden/elt  (p.  229),  4»/i  M. 

From  Michelstadt  a  road  ascends  to  the  £.,  passing  Dor/  Erbach  and 
(4»/2  M.)  Count  Erbach's  shooting-box  Eulbach,  with  its  fine  deer-park,  to 
Amorbach  (Badischer  Ho/;  Hecht),  a  town  with  3900  inhabitants.  It  is  the 
residence  of  Prince  Leiningen,  and  contains  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey, 
with  a  library,  the  buildings  of  which  chiefly  date  from  last  century. 
[Excursion,  via  Ernstthal  (Inn),  with  its  large  brewery,  to  Wald- Leiningen, 
a  modern  chateau  in  the  English-Gothic  style.] 

From  Amorbach  to  Miltknbebg,  5Vs  M.,  railway  in  7a  hr.  (fares  70, 
45,  30  pf.).  —  l»/4  M.  Weilbach. 

572  M.  ntttenherg  (Engel;  Riese),  a  busy  little  town  with  3400  inhab., 
charmingly  situated  on  the  Main,  with  extensive  quarries  of  red  sandstone, 
which  were  known  to  the  Romans.  The  old  Chdteau  of  the  Electors  of 
Mayence.  built  in  the  15th  cent,  and  destroyed  by  Albert  of  Brandenburg 
in  1552,  has  been  recently  restored,  and  contains  a  fine  collection  of  anti- 
quities and  objects  of  art  (visitors  admitted) ;  it  commands  an  admirable 
view.  The  town  contains  several  curious  timber-dwellings  (e.g.  the  'Riese' 
Inn)  and  gate-towers.  —  Opposite  Miltenberg  lies  the  Franciscan  monastery 
of  EngeUberg,  another  good  point  of  view. 

From  Miltenberg  to  Aschaffknbubg,  22>/2  M.,  railway  in  lhr.  10  min. 
(fares  3  m.,  2  m.,  1  m.  30  pf.).  —  13A  M.  Klein- ffeubach  (Adler) ,  with  the 
chateau  and  beautiful  park  of  Prince  Lowenstein.  The  chapel  of  the  cha- 
teau is  decorated  with  admirable  frescoes  by  E.  Steinle.  In  the  woods, 
I1/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Kleinbach  and  about  the  same  distance  from  Milten- 
berg, are  the  so-called  Hain-  or  Hunnen-Saulen  ('columns  of  the  Huns1), 
twelve  gigantic  columns  of  syenite ,  the  remains  of  a  quarry  of  the  Ro- 
man period,  which  appears  to  have  been  suddenly  abandoned. 

4  M.  Laudenbach,  6  M.  KUngenberg ;  the  small  town,  known  for  its 
red  wine  and  fire-proof  clay,  lies  on  the  opposite  bank.  77s  M.  WQrlh, 
a  small  town  with  an  old  chateau.  The  train  now  crosses  to  the  right 
bank  of  the  Main.    Stations  Obernburg,  KUinwalUtadt,  Sulzbach,  Obernau. 

2272  M.  Asehaffenburg  (Freiho/;  Adler;  Ooldnet  Fast;  Qeorgi;  Rail- 
way Hotel),  with  6000  inhab.,  was  for  centuries  the  summer-residence  of 
the  Electors  of  Mayenoe,  but  since  1814  has  belonged  to  Bavaria.  It  pos- 
sesses a  handsome  Schloss,  built  in  1605-14,  with  valuable  collections;  a 
Romanesque  *  Sti/Ukirche,  founded  in  980,  containing  a  few  monuments ; 
and  the   Pompeianum,  erected  by  Lewis  I.   in  1824-49  in  imitation  of  a 


232    Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  Hotels. 

house  at  Pompeii.  —  Railway  from  Aschaffenburg  to  Frankfort  via  Hanau 
and  Offenbach,  25*/*  M.,  in  i-l1/*  hr. ;   to  Darmstadt,  27  M.,  in  ty-^A  br. 

31  M.  Erbach  (815  ft.;  Burg  WUdenstein;  Preiss;  Adler;  Zum 
Odenwald ,  well  spoken  of),  a  town  witb  2600  inhab.,  situated  in 
tbe  Miimlingthal,  is  the  principal  place  in  the  dominions  of  Count 
Erbach.  The  *Schlo88,  rebuilt  in  the  Renaissance  style  in  the 
16th  cent,  on  the  site  of  a  very  ancient  castle,  and  partially  restored 
in  the  18th  cent.,  contains  an  interesting  ^Collection  of  armour 
(that  of  Wallenstein ,  Gustavus  Adolphus,  Franz  von  Sickingen, 
Gotz  von  Berlichingen,  etc.),  old  fire-arms,  valuable  stained  glass 
of  the  13th -17th  cent.,  Etruscan  vases,  and  a  number  of  other 
antiquities.  In  the  chapel  is  shown  the  stone  Sarcophagus  which 
once  contained  the  remains  of  Eginhard  (see  above)  and  his  wife 
Emma,  brought  from  the  church  of  Seligenstadt  in  1810  (fee  75  pf.). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Mumiing  and  gradually  ascends  the 
E.  side  of  the  valley,  high  above  the  river.  Near  (35  M.)  fliete- 
bach-Beerfeldtn  it  traverses  the  Himbachel  Viaduct ,  825  ft.  long 
and  145  ft.  high.    The  busy  little  town  of  Beerfelden  (Krone)  lies 

2  M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  head  of  the  picturesque  Oammelsbacher  Thai. 
The  line  now  turns  to  the  S.E.,  penetrates  the  Krahbcrg  (on  the 
summit  of  which  is  a  shooting-lodge  of  Count  Erbach-Furstenau) 
by  a  tunnel  3400  yds.  in  length,  and  follows  the  winding  course  of 
the  lttcrbach.  381/2  M.  SchoUenbach;  42  M.  Kailbach ;  46  M.  Gai- 
muhle.    50  M.  Eberbach,  see  p.  239. 

82.  Heidelberg. 

The  Railway  Station  (PI.  B,  C,  6)  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  The 
express  trains  alone  have  through-carriages,  and  as  these  are  often  shifted 
the  traveller  should  observe  the  number  of  his  compartment  on  alighting. 
Omnibuses  from  the  hotels  in  waiting  at  the  station.  The  railway  which 
ascends  the  Neckarthal  to  Wurzburg  has  a  second  station  outside  the 
Carlsthor;  see  p.  239. 

Hotels.  Near  the  Station:  *Eubopaischeb  Hop  (PI.  a;  B,  5),  in  the 
Anlage,  R.  from  3  m.,  L.  1  m.,  B.lm.  40,  A.  75,  D.  3  m.  50  pf. ;  *Gband 
Hotel,  Hotel  Schbibdeb  (PL  b ;  C,  6),  both  belonging  to  the  same  land- 
lord; *  Victoria  (PI.  g:  C,  5),  in  the  Anlage,  also  a  'pension',  R.  3V«m., 
L.  50,  A.  60,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. ;  Dabmstadteb  Hop  (PI.  k ;  B,  6) ,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  town;  Baibischeb  Hof  (PI.  i;  B,  6),  at  the  station.  Wiener 
Hop,  Hauptstrasse  11,  R.  I-IV2  m.  —  In  the  Town  (1  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion): *Pbinz  Cabl  (PI.  c:  B,  2),  in  the  Kornmarkt,  near  the  lane  ascend- 
ing to  the  castle ,  which  it  partly  faces ,  D.  3  m.;  *Adlkb  (PI.  d ;  B,  2), 
also  in  the  Kornmarkt;  'Badischeb  Hop  (PI.  f ;  B,  3,  4),  W.  Hauptstrasse, 
in  the  centre  of  the  town ;  "Hollandischeb  Hop  (PI.  h ;  A,  2),  near  the  old 
bridge,  with  d£pendance  (Neekar  Hdtel),  beyond  the  old  bridge,  command- 
ing a  fine  view  of  the  castle ;  charges  in  these,  B.  from  2-3  m.,  D.  2y«-3  m. 
—  Second-class:  »Rittbb  (PI.  m,  B,  2;  p.  286);  Rhbinischsb  Hop,  at  the 
corner  of  the  HaupTtitr.  and  the  Bienen-Str.  (PI.  B,  4),  R.  from  l'/am.  Sil- 
bbbnbb  Hibbcu,  in  the  market,  good  wine ;  Pfalzbb  Hop,  Goldenes  Hbbz, 
in  the  Hauptstrasse.  —  On  the  Hittt  near  the  Castle:  *Schloss  Hotbl  and 
Pension,  with  fine   view,  R.  2-4  m.,  L.  GO,  A.  60  pf.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf.,  D. 

3  m.,  omn.  to  meet  the  trains,  with  luggage,  i'/4  in.,  carr.  from  station 
3  m.  30  pf.  —  Pension  Ellbbman,  Anlage  18,  'pens/  21-28  m.  per  week; 
Pension  Von  MOllbb,  Haupt-Str.  248. 


1:  2QU,QQ0 


History.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route.     233 

Restaurants  and  Oa/es.  *  H&berlein,  in  the  Anlage  (p.  233),  with  a 
ladies'  room}  *Caf4  Leers,  W.  Hauptstrasse ;  Wachter,  in  the  Market*, 
Restaurant  at  the  Holland  is  cher  Hof,  Badischer  Hof,  and  Rheinischer  Hof, 
see  above.  Also  at  the  Schloss  and  the  Molkencur  (comp.  p.  238).  Beer 
at  the  Frankfurter  Bierhalle,  with  garden,  in  the  Anlage;  Bother  Ochse, 
E.  Hauptstrasse ;  Kleinlein,  W.  Hauptstrasse. 

Cabs.  (All  with  two  horses).  To  or  from  the  Railway  Stations,  or 
for  a  drive  within  the  town-,  or  beyond  the  bridges  to  Neuenheim  and 
the  Hirschgasse:  1  pers.  60,  2  pers.  90.  3  pers.  1  m.  5,  4  pers.  1  m.  20  pf. ; 
between  11  p.m.  and  5  a.m.  double  fares ;  each  heavy  box  20  pf.  —  By 
time:  per  hour  2  m.,  2  m.  20,  or  2  m.  60  pf.  —  To  the  Castle  (direct)  3  m.; 
Castle  and  Molkencur  5  m. ;  Castle,  Molkencur,  and  Wolfsbrunnen,  6  m. 
50  pf.  i  Castle,  Molkencur,  Konigsstuhl,  and  Wolfsbrunnen,  13  m.,  return 
fare  Yith  or  y*tii  more;  Neckarsteinach,  whole  day,  there  and  back,  14, 
half  day,  6,  there  and  back  9  m. 

Donkey  to  the  Castle  70  pf. \  to  the  Castle  and  Molkencur   1  m.  40  pf. 

Guide  (unnecessary)  to  the  Castle  lVz  m. ;  to  the  Konigsstuhl  3  m. 

Baths.  Warm  baths  at  * Hallers  Badeanstalt,  in  the  Plock-Strasse 
(PI.  B,C,  4,  5)*,  river- baths  in  the  Neckar,  by  the  Zimmer-Platz  (PI.  A,  4). 

Post  Office,  Sophien-Strasse,  at  the  station;  Town  Post  Office  (PI.  n. ; 
B,  3),  Marstall-Strasse,  with  telegraph-office.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Leopold- 
Strasse  12,  near  the  Anlage. 

Photographs  at  MitrmicK's. 

English  Church  (PI.  9 ;  B,  4),  in  the  Plock-Strasse ;  services  at  11  a.m.  and 
G  p.m.  (communion  at  8  a.m).    Chaplain,  Rev.  C.  Q.  Calvert,  Anlage  20. 

Principal  Attractions.  If  time  be  limited ,  proceed  at  once  from  the 
station  to  the  Molkencur  and  Castle  (l'A  hr.)  as  follows :  by  the  kAnlagen* 
as  far  as  the  Victoria  Hotel  (PI.  C.  5),  then  by  a  footpath  to  the  right  wind- 
ing through  the  *  WolfshOhle"  in  20  min.  to  the  Rondel  ('crescent'),  whence 
a  broad  road  to  the  left  leads  to  the  P/4  M.)  Kantel  ('pulpit1 ;  p.  238). 
All  descents  to  the  left  are  to  be  avoided,  i1/*  M.  the  Molkencur;  8A  M. 
the  Castle;  V«  M.  the  Great  Terrace,  In  returning,  descend  by  the  Burg- 
weg  (p.  235)  or  the  new  Schloss-Strasse  (p.  234),  and  walk  along  the 
Haupt-8trasse  to  the  (20  min.)  station.  Or  we  may  make  a  pleasant  de-' 
tour  in  returning  by  descending  from  the  Heilig-Geistkirche  to  the  Old 
Neckar  Bridge,  and  then  following  the  right  bank  to  the  New  Bridge,  which 
crosses  to  the  station. 

Few  towns  can  vie  with  Heidelberg  in  the  beauty  of  its  en* 
virons  and  its  historical  interest.  Count  Palatine  Otho  ofWittelsbaoh 
(1228-53)  transferred  the  seat  of  his  government  from  Stahleck 
(p.  Ill),  near  Bacharach,  to  Heidelberg,  which  thus  became  the 
capital  of  the  Palatinate,  and  continued  so  for  nearly  five  centuries, 
until  the  Elector  Charles  Philip  in  1721,  owing  to  ecclesiastical  dif- 
ferences with  the  Protestant  citizens,  transferred  his  seat  to  Mann- 
heim. Since  1802  Heidelberg  has  belonged  to  the  Grand-Duchy 
of  Baden.  It  now  contains  24,400  inhab.  (9000  Roman  Catholics), 
and  carries  on  a  considerable  trade. 

Heidelberg  forms,  as  it  were,  the  key  of  the  mountainous  valley 
of  the  Neckar ,  which  below  the  town  opens  into  the  plain  of  the 
Rhine.  The  castle-hill  leaves  but  little  space  between  its  base  and 
the  river  for  the  farther  extension  of  the  town,  which,  apart  from 
the  recently-built  quarters  near  the  station,  consists  of  the  so-called 
Haupt-Strassc,  a  street  about  l^M.  in  length,  with  a  few  unim- 
portant cross  and  parallel  streets.    On  the  N.  side  flows  the  Neckar. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  town,  extending  from  the  Station  (PI.  B, 
C,  6)  along  the  Leopold- Strasse,   runs  the  Anlaqb,    or  public 


234    Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  University. 

promenade,  planted  with  trees,  and  flanked  with  modern  hotels 
and  handsome  dwelling-houses.  Near  the  centre  of  the  Anlage,  and 
near  the  Chemical  Laboratory  (PI.  5 ;  B,  5)  built  in  1852,  is  a  Sta- 
tue of  the  Bavarian  Field  Marshal  Prince  Carl  v.  Wrede  (PL  21  : 
1767-1838)  by  Brugger,  erected  in  1860  by  Lewis  I.,  King  of  Bavaria. 

Near  the  E.  end  of  the  Anlage ,  on  the  left,  is  the  Protestant 
Church  of  St.  Peter  (PL  12;  B,  3),  where  Jerome  of  Prague,  the 
companion  of  Huss,  expounded  his  doctrines  in  1406 ;  the  build- 
ing, which  has  lately  been  entirely  restored,  has  a  fine  open-work 
Gothic  tower.  Opposite,  on  the  other  side  of  the  railway ,  is  the 
KUngenthor  (see  p.  238),  near  which  a  bust  was  erected  in  1880  in 
memory  of  Karl  Metz  (d.  1877),  founder  of  the  German  volunteer 
fire  brigade  system.  From  this  point  the  new  and  winding  Schloss- 
Strasse,  commanding  a  fine  view,  and  the  shorter  but  less  agreeable 
old  road  (the  'Schlossberg')  ascend  to  the  entrance  of  the  Schloss- 
garten  at  the  Elisabethen-Pforte  (see  p.  237).  —  Turning  to  the 
left  at  the  choir  of  St.  Peter's  Church,  we  reach  the  Ludwigs-Platz, 
with  the  University  Buildings  (PL  19,  B,  3),  erected  in  1711-15. 

The  University  (600-700  stud.),  the  famous  Ruperto-Carola,  the 
cradle  of  science  in  S.  Germany,  and  after  the  universities  of  Prague 
and  Vienna  the  oldest  in  Germany,  was  founded  in  1386  by  Elector 
Rupert  I.  Its  period  of  greatest  prosperity  was  in  the  latter  half 
of  the  16th,  and  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent.,  when,  under 
Electors  Otho  Henry,  Frederick  III. ,  and  Frederick  IV.,  it  was  the 
centre  of  'Humanism',  and  the  chief  Reformed  seat  of  learning  in 
Germany.  During  the  stormy  times  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War  and  the 
devastation  of  the  Rhenish  Palatinate  by  the  French  it  survived 
with  difficulty.  It  is  indebted  for  its  modern  development  to 
Charles  Frederick  of  Baden,  who  in  1802  provided  it  with  eminent 
professors  and  scientific  collections. 

The  Library,  in  a  separate  building,  contains  300,000  vols.,  70,000  pam- 
phlets, 3000  MSS.,  and  1000  diplomas.  It  is  open  daily  10-12,  and  on  Wed. 
and  Sat.  3-6  also.  Scarcely  one-third  of  the  MSS.  in  the  famous  Bibliotheca 
Palatina,  which  was  transferred  to  Borne  as  a  present  from  the  Elector 
Maximilian  of  Bavaria  after  the  capture  of  Heidelberg  by  Tilly,  have 
been  returned.  (Thirty-eight  were  restored  in  1814,  and  eight  hundred 
and  thirty -eight  in  1816,  including  some  original  MSS.  of  Luther.)  The 
other  collections  and  scientific  institutions,  which  possess  little  interest  for 
the  passing  traveller,  consist  of  an  Archaeological  Institute,  with  a  small 
but  excellent  collection  of  casts  and  a  number  of  Roman  antiquities  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  (near  the  University),  a  Zoological  Museum  and  an 
extensive  Collection  of  Minerals,  both  in  the  Friedrichsbau  (PI.  16),  a  Bota- 
nical Garden,  a  Chemical  Laboratory,  Clinical  Institutions,  etc. 

The  Museum  (PL  15 ;  B,  3),  the  property  of  a  club,  is  also  situated  in 
the  Ludwigs-Platz.  The  third  floor  contains  a  small  collection  of  pictures 
belonging  to  the  town,  in  which  Rottmann,  Feuerbach,  Fries,  and  other 
Heidelberg  artists  are  well  represented  (adm.  on  Sun.  &  Wed.  11-1,  50  pf. ; 
at  other  times  by  fee  to  the  attendant). 

The  Jesuitenkirche  (PI.  11 ;  B,  3)  has  lately  been  decorated  with 
fine  polychrome  ornamentation  by  Mayerhauser  of  Carlsruhe,  and 
contains  a  new  marble  pulpit  by  Steinhauser. 


Castle.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route.     235 

In  the  Market  Placb  rises  the  Gothic  Stiftskirche,  or  Heilig- 
Geistkirche(Pl.  10;  B,  2),  erected  atthe  beginning  of  the  15th  cent, 
under  Count  Palatine  Rupert.  In  1705  the  Roman  Catholic  Count 
Palatine  Johann  Wilhelm  caused  the  nave  to  be  separated  from  the 
choir  by  a  wall,  in  order  that  the  Roman  Catholics  might  worship  in 
the  latter  (now  used  by  the  'Old  Catholics'),  while  the  Protestants 
retained  the  nave.  The  choir  contains  the  tomb  of  King  Rupert 
(see  below)  and  his  wife  Elizabeth,  sister  of  the  first  Elector  of 
Brandenburg.  — Opposite  the  church  is  the  inn  *Zum  Hitter,  erected 
in  1592  in  the  Renaissance  style,  one  of  the^tew  houses  which 
escaped  destruction  during  the  devastations  of  1693. 

A  few  paces  hence  is  the  old  Neekar  Bridge  (p.  238). 

The  last  of  the  side-streets  to  the  right  of  the  Market  Place  is 
the  Oberbad-Gasse  (adjoining  the  'Prinz  Carl'),  from  the  end  of 
which  we  may  reach  the  new  Road  to  thb  Castle  (p.  234).  — 
Pedestrians  continue  to  follow  the  Hauptstrasse,  cross  the  Korn- 
markt  (PI.  B,  2)  diagonally  to  the  right,  and  ascend  the  Bukoweo, 
which  leads  in  12  min.  (passing  under  a  long  vaulted  gateway  near 
the  top)  to  the  great  balcony  and  the  court  of  the  castle  (p.  237). 

The  "Cattle  (670  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  330  ft.  above  the 
Neekar),  situated  on  the  'Jettenbiihl',  a  wooded  spur  of  the  Konigs- 
stuhl,  was  founded  by  the  Count  Palatine  Rudolph  I.  (1294-1319), 
who  erected  his  new  chateau  below  the  old  castle  on  the  Jettenbuhl 
(p.  238).  The  building  was  extended  by  Rupert  I.  (1353-90)  and 
Rupert  III.  (1399-1410),  who  was  elected  Roman  king  at  Rhens  in 
1400.  The  castle  was  then  strongly  fortified  by  the  electors  Frederick  I. 
'the  Victorious'  (1449-76),  and  Lewis  V.  (1508-44).  The  palatial 
parts  of  the  edifice  were  afterwards  erected  by  the  electors  of  the  16th 
and  17th  cent.,  particularly  Otto  Heinrich  (1556-59),  Frederick  IV. 
(1583-1610),  and  Frederick  V.  (1610-21),  King  of  Bohemia  (hus- 
band of  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  James  I.  of  England).  In  1622,  when 
Heidelberg  was  taken  by  Tilly,  the  castle  escaped  almost  uninjured. 
It  was  afterwards  restored  by  Carl  Ludwig  (1631-80),  during  whose 
reign  the  country  also  recovered  from  the  other  disasters  of  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  After  the  death  of  Carl  (in  1685),  the  last 
Protestant  Elector,  Louis  XIV.  preferred  a  claim  to  the  Pala- 
tinate, and  began  the  cruel  and  destructive  war  which  involved  the 
Castle  of  Heidelberg  and  so  many  others  in  one  common  ruin.  On 
24th  Oct.  1688  the  town  and  castle  capitulated  to  Count  Mttac, 
the  French  general,  who  spent  the  following  winter  here.  On  the 
approach  of  the  German  armies,  however,  he  determined  to  evacuate 
the  place ,  and  on  2nd  March ,  1689 ,  he  caused  the  whole  of  the 
fortifications  to  be  blown  up ,  the  palace  to  be  burned  down,  and 
part  of  the  town  to  be  set  on  fire.  Those  parts  of  the  castle  and 
town  which  escaped  the  French  on  this  occasion  were  destroyed 
by  them  four  years  afterwards.  Thirty  or  forty  years  later  the 
greater  part  of  the  castle  was  rebuilt  by  the  Elector   Carl  Theodor 


236    Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  CasUe. 

(1716-1742),  but  in  1764  it  was  struck  by  lightning  and  Anally 
reduced  to  the  ruinous  condition  in  which  we  know  it. 

The  walls  of  the  castle  are  of  vast  extent,  and  form  the  most  mag- 
nificent ruin  in  Germany.  The  ivy-clad  ruins  are  moreover  linked 
with  innumerable  historical  associations ,  and  the  striking  contrast 
here  presented  between  the  eternal  rejuvenescence  of  nature  and 
the  instability  of  the  proudest  of  human  monuments  has  called  forth 
many  a  poetic  effusion.  As  the  external  walls  (with  the  exception 
of  that  on  the  N.  side,  facing  the  town  and  the  Neckar)  served  only 
for  purposes  of  defence,  ail  architectural  ornament  was  reserved  for 
the  inner  facade  towards  the  *Schlo$8hof,  or  castle-yard. 

Tickets  admitting  to  the  interior  of  the  Schloss  are  procured  at  the 
corner  marked  14  in  the  plan:  charge,  including  the  (Great  Tun1,  for 
1  pers.  1  m.,  2  pers.  H/s  m.,  3  pen.  or  more  50  pf.  each.  Visitors  are 
conducted  over  the  Otto-Heinrichs-Bau,  ascend  the  octagonal  tower,  pass 
from  the  Buprechts-Bau  by  the  extensive,  partly  subterranean  passages  to 
the  l Thick  Tower',  and  lastly  inspect  the  castle  chapel  and  cellar.  Charge 
for  seeing  the  'Great  Tun'  only,  for  1  pers.  20,  two  or  three  pers.  30, 
more  than  three  pers.  10  pf.  each. 

The  **Otto  Heinrichs-Bau  (PI.  15),  erected  in  1556,  the  finest 
example  of  Renaissance  architecture  in  Germany,  first  attracts  the 
eye  and  merits  oareful  inspection.  The  facade,  partly  of  the  Ionic 
and  partly  of  the  Corinthian  order,  rises  in  three  stories  above  a 
lofty  cellar  floor,  and  is  richly  adorned  with  beautiful  sculpturing. 
The  cornice  of  the  magnificent  portal,  to  which  a  double  flight  of 
steps  ascends,  is  supported  by  Caryatides.  Above  it  is  the  bust  of 
the  founder,  the  Elector  Otto  Heinrich,  with  armorial  bearings 
and  inscription.  In  the  niches  of  the  facade  are  a  number  of  sta- 
tues by  A.  Colin*  of  Malines,  all  having  a  symbolical  meaning :  in  the 
four  lower  niches  are  Joshua,  Samson,  Hercules,  and  David ;  in  the 
middle  niches,  allegorical  figures  of  Strength,  Justice,  Faith, 
Charity,  Hope ;  in  the  upper  niches,  Saturn,  Mars,  Venus,  Mer- 
cury, Diana ;  on  the  parapet,  Apollo  and  Jupiter.  In  the  window- 
arches  are  medallions  of  the  heads  of  eminent  men  of  antiquity. 

The  *Friedrich8-Bau  (PI.  9),  dating  from  1601-7,  is  built  in  a 
massive  rococo  style ,  and  consists  of  four  stories  (Doric,  Tuscan, 
Ionic,  and  Corinthian).  In  ornamentation  it  is  inferior  to  the  Otto- 
Heinrichs-Bau,  which  it  perhaps  surpasses  in  structural  grandeur. 
In  the  niches  are  statues  of  Charlemagne,  Otho  of  Wittelsbach,  and 
the  Counts  Palatine  down  to  Frederick  IV. 

In  the  corner  to  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  cellar  (PI.  10),  con- 
taining the  famous  Heidelberg  Tun,  a  monster  cask  capable  of  holding 
49,000  gallons.  The  tun  was  originally  constructed  in  1664  under  Elector 
Lewis,  but  in  its  present  form  dates  from  1751,  when  Elector  Charles 
Philip  almost  entirely  renewed  it,  in  repairing  the  damage  it  had  re- 
ceived in  1688  and  1693.  By  the  tun  stands  a  grotesque  wooden  figure  of 
Perkeo,  court-jester  of  Elector  Charles  Philip.  Another  large  tun  bears 
humorous  inscriptions. 

The  Municipal  Collection  of  Pictures  and  Antiquities  in  the  Fried- 
richsbau  (entrance  PI.  14 ;  adm.  50  pf. ,  for  parties  of  6  and  upwards, 
30  pf.  each)  contains  an  extensive  collection  of  portraits  of  Palatine 
princes,  statesmen,  generals,  and  professors ;  documents,  coins,  relics,  wea- 


Castle.  HEIDELBERG.  32.  Route.     237 

pons,  ornaments;  views  of  the  castle  at  different  periods;  a  cork  model 
of  the  castle;  a  relief-plan  of  the  environs  of  Heidelberg,  etc. 

A  vaulted  passage  leads  under  the  Friedrichsbau  to  the  *Qreat 
Balcony,  constructed  in  1610,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view. 
The  footpath  [Burgweg ;  p.  235)  to  the  town  begins  at  the  base  of 
this  platform. 

Adjoining  the  Friedrichsbau  on  the  left  is  the  so-called 
Ruprechts-HalU,  or  Bandhaus  (PI.  8),  probably  erected  by  Ru- 
pert I.,  but  afterwards  altered.  Farther  back  is  the  so-called  Alte 
Bau  (PL  7),  the  remains  of  a  building  erected  by  Rudolph  I. 

Beyond  the  Alte  Bau  is  the  Ruprechtsbau  (PL  6),  a  simple  Go- 
thic structure  erected  by  Rupert  III.  The  imperial  eagle  with  the 
arms  of  the  Palatinate  recall  the  election  of  that  prince  to  the  sceptre 
of  the  Roman  kingdom.  Over  the  entrance  is  a  rosary  borne  hy  two 
angels.    The  large  hall  in  the  Interior  is  used  on  festive  occasions. 

Opposite,  adjoining  the  Ludwigsbau,  which  was  erected  by 
Ludwig  V.,  is  a  covered  Fountain  (PL  23),  with  four  columns  of 
syenite  (perhaps  from  the  Felsberg,  p.  228),  which  once  adorned 
the  palace  of  Charlemagne  at  Ingelheim,  and  were  brought  here  by 
the  Count  Palatine  Ludwig. 

Passing  through  the  gateway  under  the  square  Watch  Tower 
(PL  5),  and  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  castle-moat,  we  reach  the 
♦Schloss-Gakten,  laid  out  on  the  ruins  of  the  fortifications,  and 
used  as  a  nursery  of  forest-trees  in  connection  with  the  university. 
These  pleasant  grounds  contain  many  different  species  of  pines. 

To  the  right,  near  the  W.  entrance  to  the  garden,  at  the  end  of 
the  new  road  to  the  Castle  (pp.  234,  235),  is  the  Elisabethen-Pforte 
(PL  1),  erected  by  Frederick  V.  in  honour  of  his  consort  (p.  235). 
This  gateway  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Stuckgarten,  an  old  bastion, 
which  together  with  the  corner-tower,  the  so-called  Dicke  Thurm 
(PL  2) ,  defended  the  castle  on  the  W.  side.  Between  the  Dicke 
Thurm  and  the  Friedrichsbau  is  the  Englische  Bau,  or  Elisabethen- 
bau  (PL  3),  which  was  also  erected  by  Frederick  V. 

The  l  Gesprengte  Thurm*  (bio wn-up-tower ;  PL  18)  at  the  E.  angle 
of  the  castle ,  in  the  fosse  to  the  left  of  the  exit  from  the  castle- 
yard  ,  is  of  so  solid  masonry ,  that ,  when  the  French  blew  it  up  in 
1689,  the  result  was  that  one-half  became  detached  and  fell  in  an 
unbroken  mass  into  the  moat,  where  it  still  remains.  The  tower  is 
93  ft.  in  diameter,  the  walls  21  ft.  thick;  beneath  it  are  long 
casemated  passages. 

The  curious  junction  of  the  red  sandstone  and  granite  visible  in  the 
side  of  the  moat  near  the  Gesprengte  Thurm  is  a  point  of  geological  in- 
terest even  for  the  non-scientific  visitor. 

One  of  the  finest  points  in  the  Schloss-Garten  is  the  * Great 
Terrace  to  the  N.E. ,  constructed  in  1613,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  Castle  itself.  Between  the  Castle  and  the  terrace  is  a 
Restaurant ,  where  a  band  generally  plays  on  summer  afternoons. 
Behind  the  terrace  is  the  Schloss-ffitel  (p.  232). 


238    Route  32.  HEIDELBERG.  Bridges. 

About  I1/2  M.  farther  to  the  E.  is  the  Wolftbrtmnen,  once  a  favourite 
resort  of  Frederick  V.  and  his  wife  Elizabeth,  and  celebrated  in  a  sonnet 
of  Martin  Opitz,  who  was  a  student  at  Heidelberg  in  1619.  According  to 
tradition,  the  enchantress  Jetta  was  here  killed  by  a  wolf,  whence  the 
name.  The  five  ponds  fed  by  the  spring  contain  trout,  a  dish  of  which 
may  be  had  at  the  inn.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  reservoir  supplying  the 
water  for  the  new  aqueduct. 

The  Routb  to  thb  Molkbncur  (20  min.)  ascends  the  steps  op- 
posite the  Gesprengte  Thurm,  between  ivy-clad  walls,  passes  through 
a  small  gate,  and  reaches  the  road  which  passes  at  the  hack  of  the 
castle  (finger-post).  We  may  now  either  ascend  by  the  road  or  by 
the  zigzag  footpath.  If  we  follow  the  latter  we  may  after  a  few  mi- 
nutes either  diverge  by  the  'Friesenweg'  to  the  right,  where  an  in- 
scription has  been  placed  to  the  memory  of  Ernst  Fries  (d.  1841), 
a  young  painter  of  Heidelberg ,  or  we  may  continue  to  follow  the 
zigzag  path.    (Several  finger-posts.) 

The  *Molkenour  (960  ft.  above  the  sea-level ;  195  ft.  above  the 
castle)  is  a  small  restaurant  which  commands  an  admirable  view, 
and  is  the  only  point  from  which  the  castle  is  seen  from  above.  It 
stands  on  a  spur,  near  the  site  of  the  old  castle  of  the  Counts  Pala- 
tine, which  was  destroyed  by  an  explosion  in  1537,  and  of  which 
few  traces  are  left.  It  is  said  to  have  been  inhabited  in  the  12th 
cent,  by  Conrad  of  Hohenstaufen,  brother  of  Barbarossa  (d.  1195). 

A  road  leads  from  behind  the  Molkencur  to  the  S.,  and  after  a  few 
yards  reaches  a  point  where  four  roads  meet  (finger-post).  That  on  the 
left  descends  to  the  Schloss,  the  one  straight  on  leads  to  the  Eonigsstuhl, 
while  that  to  the  right  descends  to  Heidelberg,  which  it  reaches  at  the 
Xlingenthor  (p.  234).  From  the  last,  after  IE,  &  road  diverges  to  the 
left  and  ascends  in  6  min.  to  a  "Bench,  commanding  an  excellent  view 
of  the  upper  part  of  the  town  and  of  the  Schloss.  A  few  paces  farther 
on  is  the  Eanzel  ('pulpit'),  a  small  projecting  platform,  with  a  parapet, 
affording  a  survey  of  Heidelberg  and  the  plain.  The  Bondel  (reached 
hence  in  5  min.),  an  open  space  in  front  of  a  covered  seat,  is  also  a  charm- 
ing point  of  view.  From  the  Bondel  a  broad  path  (indicated  by  a  guide-post 
'nach  dem  Bahnhof )  leads  by  the  Wolfshbhle  to  Heidelberg,  emerging  at 
the  Victoria  Hdtel  (p.  232;  PI.  C,  5).  —  Immediately  beyond  the  Rondel 
is  a  footpath  ascending  to  the  top  of  the  (20  min.)  *Geisberg  (1234  ft.), 
the  tower  on  which  commands  one  of  the  finest  views  near  Heidelberg. 
About  1  M.  farther  on  is  the  Speperershof(lnn,  'pens.1  4'/s  m.).  a  favourite 
point  for  a  walk.    Thence  to  the  Heidelberg  station  about  18A  M. 

The  Kdnigastuhl,  also  called  Kaiterttuhl  in  commemoration  of  the 
visit  of  the  Emperor  Francis  in  1815,  906  ft.  higher  than  the  Castle,  and 
1847  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  reached  from  the  Molkencur  by  an  easy 
and  shaded  path  (indicated  by  a  guide-post  on  the  road  to  the  Schloss, 
behind  and  to  the  E.  of  the  Molkencur)  in  */a  hr.,  or  by  the  carriage-road 
in  1  hour.  The  tower  on  the  top,  93  ft.  in  height,  commands  a  most  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  Rhine,  Neckar,  Odenwald,  Haardt  Mts.,  Taunus,  the 
Black  Forest  as  far  as  the  Mercuriusberg  at  Baden,  and  even  the  cathe- 
dral of  Strasburg(?).  Inn  on  the  summit.  The  Kohlhof,  20  min.  farther 
on,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Dilsberg  and  the  valley  of  the  Neckar 
(*Inn,  with  'pension'). 

The  handsome  *  Old  Bridge  (PL  A,  2)  over  the  Neckar,  con- 
structed by  Elector  Charles  Theodore  in  1786-88,  is  embellished 
with  statues  of  the  Elector  and  of  Minerva.  About  1300  yds.  lower 
down,  at  Neuenheim,  is  the  equally  fine  *New  Bridge  (PI.  A,  6). 
Both  bridges  command  beautiful  views. 


NEOKARGEMftND.  32.  Route.     239 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Neckar  is  the  *Philosophenweg  fPl. 
A,  5,  4),  a  beautiful  walk  extending  2  M.  along  the  slope  of  the 
Heiligenberg,  chiefly  through  vineyards,  and  commanding  splendid 
views  of  the  town,  castle,  valley,  plain  of  the  Rhine  with  the  cathe- 
dral of  Speyer,  and  the  picturesque  outlines  of  the  S.  Haardt  Mts. 
A  very  pleasant  walk  of  about  1  hr.  may  be  taken  by  ascending  the 
first  road  to  the  right  beyond  Neuenheim,  near  the  new  bridge,  tra- 
versing the  Philosophenweg,  and  then  descending  through  the  small 
lateral  valley  of  the  Hirschgasac,  past  the  well-known  students1  ta- 
vern of  that  name,  to  the  Neckar  (PI.  A,  1). 

Excursions.  The  *  Valley  of  the  Neckar  above  Heidelberg  affords 
many  pleasant  excursions,  which  have  been  much  facilitated  by  the  new 
Railway  to  Neckabelz  (90  M.  in  27«  hrs. ;  fares  4  m.  10,  2  m.  75,  1  m. 
75  pf.).  The  station  at  the  Carlsthor  (PI.  A,  B,  1 ;  comp.  p.  232),  2  M.  from 
the  central  station,  is  connected  with  it  by  a  tunnel  passing  under  the  castle. 

As  the  train  quits  the  Carlsthor  station,  the  abbey  of  Ifeuburg  and  the 
village  of  Ziegelhattsen  (Adler),  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Heidelbergers,  are 
seen  to  the  left.   Then  (2  M.)  Schlierbach  (Pension  and  Restaurant  Volcker). 

47s  M.  Neckargemiind  (Hirsch),  at  the  point  where  the  Neckar  is  joined 
by  the  EUenz,  the  valley  of  which  is  ascended  by  the  railway  to  Heil- 
bronn.  The  Neckarthal  Railway  crosses  the  Neckar,  penetrates  a  tunnel  lead- 
ing into  the  valley  of  Schonau  (p.  230),  and  reaches  — 

8  M.  Neckarsteinach  (*Harfey  with  garden  on  the  river ;  station  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  town),  a  small  town  with  1500  inhab.,  in  a  highly  pic- 
turesque situation,  once  the  seat  of  the  valiant  race  of  the  Steinachs, 
who  became  extinct  in  1653.  The  four  old  castles  still  bear  testimony 
to  their  power.  The  church  contains  numerous  monuments  of  the  fam- 
ily ,  several  of  whom  bore  the  surname  of  Landschaden  C land-scourge"'), 
perhaps  from  the  perpetual  feuds  in  which  they  were  engaged.  One  of 
the  castles  has  been  restored  in  the  medieeval  style  and  surrounded  with 
a  park  by  its  present  proprietor  Baron  v.  Dorth.  The  highest  of  them, 
Schadeck,  popularly  called  the  ' Swallow-  s  Nest',  frowns  above  a  deep  quarry. 
A  good  view  of  the  pleasing  valley  of  the  Neckar  is  obtained  from  the 
tower  (from  Neckarsteinach  and  back  1  hr.). 

Opposite,  on  a  lofty  wooded  eminence,  rises  the  castle  of  Dilsberg, 
unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Tilly  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  It  was 
used  as  a  state-prison  down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
particularly  for  Heidelberg  students,  and  the  following  anecdote  shows 
how  rigorous  was  the  confinement  to  which  the  prisoners  were  subjected. 
One  day  when  the  castle  was  visited  by  strangers  who  desired  to  see  the 
cells,  they  were  told  by  the  officer  in  command  that  he  could  not  oblige 
them,  as  the  prisoners  were  then  making  a  tour  in  the  Odenwald  and  had 
taken  the  keys  with  them. 

10l/2  M.  Neclarhauten.  127s  M.  Hiraehhorn  (*Zum  Naturalisten),  most 
picturesquely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  handsome  and  loftily  situated 
old  castle  of  the  once  powerful,  but  now  extinct  barons  of  Hirschhorn, 
or  Hirzhorn.  In  1406  one  of  the  Hirschhorns  erected  a  Carmelite  mon- 
astery at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  original  chapel  of  which ,  built  in  a 
tasteful  style,  with  pointed  towers,  still  contains  many  monuments  of 
the  family.  The  Erschheimer  Capelle,  rising  above  the  river,  a  late-Gothic 
building  of  1517,  also  contains  monuments  of  the  Hirschhorns. 

17  M.  Eberbach  (*Leininger  Ho/;  *  Krone,  on  the  Neckar.  R.  I72  m.), 
an  old  town  with  4000  inhab.,  belonging  to  the  Prince  of  Leiningen,  and 
carrying  on  a  brisk  trade  in  timber.  From  this  point  we  may  in  2  hrs. 
(guide  not  absolutely  necessary)  ascend  the  Xatienbnekel  (1959  ft.),  the 
highest  of  the  Odenwald  Mts.,  composed  of  red  sandstone,  through  which 
dolerite  protrudes  at  the  top.  The  tower  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
valley  of  the  Neckar,  part  of  the  duchy  of  Baden,  and  Wurtemberg  as  far 
as  the  Alb  and  the  Black  Forest.  —  Railway  to  Darmstadt,  see  p.  232. 


240    Route  33.  MANNHEIM. 

Beyond  Eberbach  the  train  passes  Stolzeneck,  on  the  left  bank ,  the 
ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  13th  century.  23y2  M.  Zwingenberg ,  on  the  right 
bank,  lying  close  to  the  river,  is  commanded  by  a  picturesquely  situated 
castle  of  the  Margraves  of  Baden,  which  was  rebuilt  in  the  16th  cent.,  and 
has  lately  been  restored  and  rendered  habitable.  Five  of  the  eight  towers 
are  still  preserved.  The  Katzenbuckel  may  also  be  ascended  hence.  — 
25V2  M.  Neckargerach,  on  the  right  bank.  On  the  hill  above  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Minneburg,  which  was  destroyed  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  The 
valley  now  expands.  On  the  left  bank  is  the  Reiherhalde,  so  called 
from  the  flocks  of  herons  (Reiher)  which  have  established  themselves 
here.  A  little  above  Obrigheim ,  on  the  left  bank ,  is  the  ruin  of  Dauch- 
stein.  At  Diedethetm  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge-of-boats.  —  Near 
(28  M.)  Binau  the  train  passes  through  a  tunnel  7z  M.  in  length. 

30  M.  Neckarelz,  on  the  right  bank,  at  the  influx  of  the  Elz  into  the 
Neckar,  contains  a  late-Gothic  lodge  of  the  Templars.  Opposite  the  town 
rises  the  Neuburg. 

Neckarelz  is  the  junction  for  the  Heilbronn  and  Meckesheim  line, 
by  which  we  may  return  to  Heidelberg  (same  distance  and  fares).  The 
stations  are  Aibaeh,  Aglasterhausen ,  Helmstadt,  Waibttadt,  Neidenstein, 
Eschelbronn,  Meckesheim,  junction  for  the  Heilbronn  and  Heidelberg  line, 
Mauer,  Bammenthal,  and  Nechargemilnd  (p.  239),  where  it  rejoins  the  line 
above  described. 

The  first  station  beyond  Neckarelz  in  the  direction  of  Wiirzburg  is 
Xosbach  (*  Print  Carl,  moderate;  Badischer  Bo/),  an  old  and  busy  little 
town  on  the  Elz.    Comp.  Baedeker**  South  Germany. 

From  Heidelberg  to  Speter,  17  M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  2  m.  45, 
1  m.  65, 1  m.  10  pf.).     Stations:  4  M.  Eppelheim;  5  M.  Plankstadt. 

6  M.  Schwetzingen  (°Erbprinz,  *Hirsch,  and  Adler,  by  the  entrance  to 
the  chateau;  Hdtel  Hauler,  at  the  station),  a  pleasant  little  town  with 
about  5000  inhab.,  attracts  numerous  visitors  from  Heidelberg.  The  Schloss, 
erected  by  Elector  Earl  Ludwig  in  1656,  and  destroyed  by  Me"lac  in  1689, 
but  afterwards  restored,  was  the  residence  of  the  electors  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  18th  century.  The  "Gardens  (comp.  Plan  of  Mannheim)  were  laid 
out  by  Elector  Karl  Theodor  in  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent,  in  the  style 
of  the  grounds  at  Versailles,  and  the  beautiful  old  avenues  have  since 
been  surrounded  with  grounds  in  the  English  style.  The  gardens  cover 
an  area  of  117  acres,  and  are  embellished  with  statues,  temples,  artificial 
ruins,  a  mosque  with  lofty  minarets,  and  other  objects  in  the  taste  of  the 
18th  century.  The  fountains  play  daily  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the 
middle  of  October.  The  visitor  is  recommended  to  turn  to  the  right  on 
entering.    A  walk  round  the  whole  of  the  gardens  takes  about  2  hours. 

Schwetzingen  is  the  junction  of  the  Speyer  line  with  the  railway  to 
Mannheim  and  Carlsruhe  (p.  243),  and  of  a  branch-line  to  Friedrichsfeld 
(p.  227).  The  8peyer  line  runs  hence  to  the  W.,  and  then  to  the  S.W., 
and  crosses  the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  bridge  of  iron  pontoons  near  (13  M.) 
AUlustheim. 

Speyer,  see  p.  257.  The  Rhine  Station  (15  M.)  is  near  the  cathedral ; 
the  Principal  Station  (17  M.)  is  reached  in  10  min.  more. 

33.  Mannheim  and  Ludwigshafen. 

Railway  Stations.  The  Main  Station  (Restaurant)  lies  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  town  (PI.  J,  K,  5;  p.  242),  and  is  used  for  the  trains  to  Heidelberg 
and  Frankfort  (R.  30),  Ludwigshafen  (p.  242),  Schwetzingen  and  Carls- 
ruhe (p.  243),  and  for  the  'Riedbahn'  to  Frankfort  (p.  213).  The  Riedbahn 
has  another  station  beyond  the  Neckar  Bridge  (PI.  G,  H,  1). 

Hotels.  *Pfalzer  Hof  (PI.  b ;  G,  H,  3,  4),  at  the  corner  of  the  Pa- 
rade-Platz  and  of  the  Planken,  R.  from  2  m.,  B.  1  m.  20,  A.  50  pf. ;  *Drut- 
scher  Hop  (PI.  c ;  G,  4),  commercial,  R.  &  A.  2l/2  m.  —  "Schwarzkb  LOwb 
(PI.  e ;  H,  3),  second-class,  good  wines ;  *H6tel  Lanoeloth  (PI.  g;  H,  3), 
near  the  Strohmarkt;   Landsberg,    small,   near  the  station;   Konig  von 


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MANNHEIM.  33.  Route.    241 

Pobtugal  (PL  d;  G,  3),  An  den  Planken;  Zom  Nbckabthal,  near  the 
bridge,  E.  iy«-i»/«  m. 

Eestauranta.  Arche  Noah  (F,  5,  2);  Stern  (B,  2, 14),  near  the  theatre ; 
Ca/4  Franfais  (C,  2,  1);  AosensJoc*,  near  the  Kaufhaus;  BaUhau*%  in  the 
Schlossgarten,  in  the  W.  wing  of  the  Schloss  ;  Railway  Restaurant.  — 
Beer.  Alte  Sonne  (N,  3,  14),  Sotfeu  Acta/  (0,  1,  10),  Qroeeer  MajerhoJ 
(E,  4.  12). 

Gab*.  From  the  station  or  the  steamboat  pier  into  the  town,  for  1 
pers.  50,  2  pers.  70,  3  pen.  90.  4  pers.  in.  10 pf.;  to  Ludwigshafen  1  m. 
SO,  1  m.  70,  1  m.  90,  or  2  m.  10  pf.  —  Per  drive  within  the  town :  »/«  hr. 
for  1-2  pers.  50,  for  34  pers.  90  pf.  *  »/»  hr.  80  pf.  or  1  m.  20  pf. 

Tramways.  From  the  Main  Railway  Station  to  the  Rheinthor  and 
from  the  Riedbahn  Station  to  the  Rhine  Bridge,  fare  15  pf. ;  to  Ludwigs- 
hafen  25  pf.    Comp.  the  Plan. 

Steamboat.  The  landing~plaoe  is  below  the  bridge  over  the  Rhine, 
*/«  M.  from  the  station  at  Ludwigshafen,  and  1  M.  from  the  Mannheim 
station.    Oomp.  the  Plan.    Steamboat  to  Mayence,  via  Worms,  in  4Va  hrs. 

United  State*  Oenaul :  Mr.  Edward  M.  Smith. 

Post  Office  (temporary),  in  the  Schlossplatx. 

Mannheim  (276  ft.),  a  town  with  53,450  tahah.  (72  Rom.  Oath..), 
situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  Neekar  and  the  Rhine  and  con- 
nected by  a  bridge  with  Ludwigshafen  on  the  left  hank  of  the  latter 
river  (p.  242),  was  founded  in  1606  by  Elector  Palatine  Frederick  IV. 
The  castle  he  then  built  was  destroyed  along  with  the  Infant  town 
in  the  Thirty  Years1  War,  and  again  by  the  French  in  1689.  For  its 
subsequent  importance  Mannheim  was  indebted  to  Elector  Charles 
Philip,  who  owing  to  ecclesiastical  differences  transferred  his  resi- 
dence from  Heidelberg  to  Mannheim  in  1721.  It  is  the  most  regu- 
larly built  town  in  Germany,  being  divided  into  110  square  sections 
like  a  chess  board.  The  streets  are  distinguished,  according  to  the 
American  system,  by  letters  and  numerals.  Mannheim  is  the  most 
important  commercial  town  of  the  Upper  Rhine,  tobacco,  coffee, 
grain,  and  petroleum  being  the  staple  commodities.  The  new  har- 
bour and  docks  are  very  extensive. 

The  spacious  Schloss  (PI.  8;  G,  H,  5),  erected  in  1720-29,  and 
partially  destroyed  in  1795,  contains  several  collections ;  entrance 
at  the  E.  side,  opposite  the  Friedrich-Straese. 

The  E.  wing  (entrance  opposite  the  Stephanien-Strasse)  contains  a 
Natural  Histoby  Cabinet  (Sun.  and  Wed.,  11-1  and  3-5,  free),  and  a 
number  of  Soman  antiquities.  Among  the  latter  may  be  mentioned:  11. 
Mercury  with  the  infant  Bacchus;  19.  Votive  tablet  to  the  god  Visucius; 
23.  Belief  with  representation  of  a  shop :  24.  Votive  atone  to  the  maternal 
deities;  3941.  Military  tombstones.  —  Here  also  is  the  — 

Picture  Gallery  (Sun.,  Wed.  11-1  and  3-5,  free;  at  other  times  1  m.). 
Ante-Chamber.  Modern  Baden  artists:  Karl  Kuntz,  and  Rud.  Kuntz, 
Several  cattle-pieces;  Kobell  (d.  1799),  Two  large  landscapes;  313.  Kirner, 
Italian  countryman  at  home.  Marie  ElUnrieder.  300.  Head  of  a  child, 
3UT.  Christ.  Fohr,  801.  Party  on  the  Chiemsee,  303.  The  Castle  of  Eber- 
stein.  —  Room  L:  L.  Cranach,  34.  Dying  Mary  and  the  Visitation,  35. 
The  Nativity  and  the  Annunciation.  24.  Holbein  (?),  Portrait  of  an  Oriental ; 
25.  Ross,  Senator  of  Frankfort;  19.  Hamilton  (d.  1754),  Game.  —  II.:  00. 
Kondekoeter,  Poultry.  —  III.:  119.  Ruben*,  Portrait  of  his  first  wife, 
Isabella  Brant;  87,88.  /.  Ruytdael.  Landscapes.  —  IV.:  121.  Brouwer,  A 
surgical  operation.  Rembrandt,  123.  Christ  before  Pilate,  122.  Two  cler- 
gymen, 124.  A  philosopher,  126.  The  Woman  taken  in  adultery  (in  shades 
of  brown).  127.  Potter \  Cattle;  128.  Rembrandt ,  Portrait  of  a  woman; 
Baedbkbr's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  16 


242   Route  33.  LUDWIGSHAFEN. 

141.  Ruyschy  Fruit:  168.  Weenix,  Game.  Terburg,  183.  Singing-lesson,  182. 
Lace-maker.  *190.  Wouu>ermant  Plundering.  —  V. :  Tenters  the  Younger, 
193-196.  Scenes  of  low  life j  200.  Van  Ostade,  Boon.  Tenters  the  Younger, 
•201.  Rustic  wedding,  205.  Boors  playing,  219.  Scissors-grinder,  222.  Peasants 
singing.  223.  Everdingen,  Landscape ;  236.  Joseph  Vernet,  Calm  sea.  253.  Le 
Brvn,  Portrait  of  a  counsellor.  —  VI. :  259.  (Hgnani,  Joseph  and  Potiphar. 
—  VII. :  Casts  of  ancient  sculptures. 

The  Aotiqgabidm,  in  the  central  part  of  the  palace,  contains  Etruscan 
sarcophagi,  heads  in  marble,  and  Roman  and  Renaissance  bronzes  (apply 
to  the  attendant  in  the  picture-gallery). 

In  the  left  wing  of  the  central  structure  is  the  collection  of  the  Mann- 
heim Antiquarian  Society  (Sun.  10.30  to  12.30,  free ;  at  other  times  apply 
at  No.  17  in  the  right  wing),  consisting  of  interesting  Germanic  and  Roman 
antiquities  found  near  Mannheim. 

>  The  Theatre  (PI.  10),  built  in  1776-79,  restored  in  1854,  and 
admirably  decorated,  is  one  of  the  best  in  S.  Germany.  Schiller's 
first  pieces,  the  'Robbers',  'Fiesco',  and  'Cabal  and  Love',  were 
performed  here  with  the  co-operation  of  Iffland  and  partly  under 
his  own  direction.  —  Schiller's  Monument  (PI.  4),  by  Cautr,  which 
adorns  the  Schillerplatz,  in  front  of  the  theatre,  was  erected  in  1862. 
Adjacent,  on  the  right  and  left,  are  the  statues  of  Iffland  (d.  1814), 
a  distinguished  actor  who  began  his  career  at  Mannheim,  and  Von 
Dalberg  (d.  1806),  intendant  of  the  theatre  down  to  1803,  both  by 
Widnmann,  and  erected  by  King  Lewis  I.  of  Bavaria  in  1864  and 
1866. 

The  following  buildings  may  also  be  mentioned;  the  Jesuits' 
Church  (PI.  5),  richly  decorated  with  marble  and  gilding,  erected 
in  1733 ;  the  Arsenal,  built  in  1777-78  and  now  a  barrack ;  the  new 
Synagogue  (PI.  9),  in  the  Byzantine  style,  embellished  with  gilding 
and  arabesques;  and  the  Main  Railway  Station  (PL  J,  K,  5),  'a 
handsome  structure  by  Helbling.  In  the  Parade-Platz,  in  front  of 
the  Kaufhaus  (PL  6;  H,  4),  is  a  curious  allegorical  Monument, 
representing  the  vicissitudes  of  the  times  (1741). 

The  Spcisemarkt  is  adorned  with  a  Monument  (PL  1 ;  G,  H,  3) 
erected  in  1771  in  commemoration  of  the  founding  of  Mannheim. 
On  the  N.  side  of  the  town  is  a  Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Neekar, 
constructed  in  1845,  and  leading  to  the  'Neckarvorstadt'  with  the 
Riedbahn  Station  (p.  213). 

The  Bailway  Bridge  (PL  G,  6)  across  the  Rhine,  built  in  1865- 
68,  connects  Mannheim  with  Ludwigshafen  on  the  opposite  bank ; 
it  is  also  used  by  carriages  and  foot-passengers.  Handsome  portals 
designed  by  Durm,  and  adorned  with  groups  of  figures  by  Moest, 

Ludwigshafen  (Deutsche*  Haus,  in  the  town ;  Straub,  moder- 
ate; good  beer  at  Hcirris  brewery),  a  town  with  16,000  in hab., 
begun  in  1843,  and  rapidly  increasing  in  commercial  importance, 
was  originally  only  the  tUe-de-pont  of  Mannheim.  During  the 
revolutionary  war  at  the  end  of  last  century  it  was  several  times  the 
seene  of  sanguinary  contests.  The  Wharfs  are  among  the  finest  on 
the  Rhine.  The  two  new  churches,  in  the  Romanesque  and  Gothic 
styles ,  are  well  worthy  of  inspection. 


.  OPPENHEIM.  3.4.  Route.     243 

Ludwigshafen  is  a  central  junction  of  the  Palatinate  railways, 
which  radiate  hence  in  various  directions:  toNeustadt,  see  p. 250; 
to  Worms,  p.  244 ;  to  Speyer,  p.  257.  Passengers  to  and  from  Mann- 
heim change  carriages  here. 

From  Mannhbim  to  Carlsruhe  (39  M.)  by  direct  railway  (Rhine  Valley 
Railway)  in  i'/a  hr.  (fares  5  m.,  3  m.  30,  2  m.  15  pf.)-  Scenery  uninteresting. 
9  M.  Schwetzingen,  see  p.  240  j  14  M.  Bockenheim;  15>/2  M.  Neulustheim. 
19Vs  M.  Waghdusel,  where  the  Baden  insurgents  were  signally  defeated 
on  21st  June,  1849.  20»/8  M.  Wiesenthal.  25  M.  Qraben-Neudorf,  where 
the  line  is  intersected  by  a  branch-line  between  Rheinsheim  and  Bruchsal, 
which  passes  the  ancient  imperial  fortress  of  PMlippsbwg,  dismantled  by 
the  French  in  1800.    29*/*  M.  Linkenheim.    39  M.  Carlsruhe  (p.  307). 


84.  From  Mayence  to  Ludwigthafen  (Mannfoim). 
Worms. 

41  M.  Railway  in  1-1  Vs  hrs. ;  fares  5  m.  40,  3  m.  60,  2  m.  30  pf. 
(express  6  m.  45,  4  m.  40,  3  m.  40  pf).  Hessische  Ludmgsbahn  as  .far  as 
Worms  (in  50-80  min.),  and  beyond  it  the  Pf&lsi$ehe  Bahn. 

Mayence,  see  p.  136.  —  The  train  passes  under  the  Darmstadt 
line  (p.  224),  intersects  the  fortifications,  and  passes  the  village  of 
WeUenau.  —  2  M.  Laubenheim,  5^2  M.  Bodenheim,  7^2  M.  Nacken- 
A«tm,  wine-producing  villages,  lie  on  the  vine-clad  hills  to  the  right, 
at  some  distance  from  the  Rhine. 

IOY2  M.  Kierstein  (*Rheinthal,  at  the  station,  with  an  old  Ger- 
man wine-saloon),  a  village  with  3200inhab.,  is  noted  for  its  care- 
ful vine-culture.  'Niersteiner'  is  one  of  the  best  known  and  most 
wholesome  of  Rhenish  wines ;  it  is  marked  by  a  mildly  acid  flavour 
with  considerable  aroma.  Most  of  the  wine  of  Rhenish  Hessen  is 
sold  under  this  name.  The  private  chapel  of  the  v.  Herding  family 
contains  six.  large  frescoes  by  Gotzenberger.  On  the  hill  to  the  right 
rises  an  old  watch-tower. 

12  M.  Oppenheim  (*H6tel  Bitter),  a  manufacturing  town  with 
3200  inhab. ,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  hill  rising  above  the  river, 
is  commanded  by  the  red  church  of  St.  Catherine  and  the  ruined 
castle  of  Landskron.  The  town  is  mentioned  in  the  Roman  itiner- 
aries as  Baueonica;  it  afterwards  became  a  city  of  the  empire  and 
enjoyed  the  patronage  of  the  Franconian  emperors,  particularly 
Henry  IV. ;  and  at  a  still  later  period  it  was  an  important  member  of 
the  league  of  the  Rhenish  towns.  In  1689  the  town  was  destroyed 
by  the  French.  The  Protestant  *Catharinenkirche  is  a  fine  Gothic 
edifice.  The  E.  choir  was  begun  in  1262,  and  the  body  of  the  church 
was  erected  in  1317.  The  W.  choir  (abbey-church),  consecrated  in 
1439,  which  has  been  in  ruins  since  its  destruction  by  the  French, 
is  now  being  restored.  The  E.  part  of  the  church,  a  cruciform  edifice 
with  a  tower  over  the  centre  and  two  W.  towers ,  was  restored  in 
1838-43.  The  windows  contain  beautiful  tracery.  In  the  interior 
we  observe  stained  glass  and  tombstones  of  the  15th  cent.,  bearing 
the  arms  of  the  Dalberg,  Sickingen,  Greiffenclau,  and  other  distin- 

16* 


244     Route  34.  FRANKENTHAL.  From  Mayence 

guished  families.  The  finest  of  the  monuments  are  those  of  Johann 
v.  Dalberg(d.  1415)  and  his  wife,  and  their  daughter  Anna  (d.  1410}. 
The  sacristan  lives  on  an  upper  floor  to  the  left  of  the  steps  at  the 
principal  S.  entrance  (40  pf.). 

Higher  up,  and  connected  with  the  town  by  a  wall  and  by  sub- 
terranean passages,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  once  famous  imperial  fortress 
of  Landskron,  which  was  burned  down  by  the  French.  It  was  erected 
in  the  reign  of  the  Emp.  Lothaire,  and  restored  by  Emp.  Rupert, 
who  died  here  in  1410.   Extensive  view  from  the  top. 

A  column  of  syenite  excavated  on  the  Landskron,  and  probably 
one  of  those  quarried  on  the  Felsberg  (p.  219),  has  been  erected  at 
Oppenheim  in  memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71 . 

16M.  Guntersblum  (Krone),  a  small  town  which  formerly  belong- 
ed to  the  Count  of  Leiningen,  possesses  a  Romanesque  church  with 
helmet-shaped  towers.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  town  is  the  chateau  of 
the  count  with  its  gardens.  In  the  plain  between  Guntersblum  and 
Oppenheim  the  Salic  Conrad  II.  was  elected  emperor  in  1024. 

18  M.  Akteim;  20  M.  Mettenheim ;  22 y2  M.  Osthofen. 

27y2  m.  Worms,  see  below. 

From  Worms  to  Darmstadt  and  Frankfort  by  the  junction-line  to  the 
Rhine  and  via  Rosengarteny  see  p.  224. 

From  Worms  to  Monsheim  (Bingen,  Diirkheim ,  etc.),  see  p.  248.  — 
P/eddersheim,  the  halfway  station,  possesses  ancient  fortifications. 

34  M.  Fraakenthal  (Hdttl  Kaufmann;  Restaurant  Witter),  a 
busy,  regularly-built  town  with  9000  inhab.,  possessing  a  number 
of  manufactories  and  considerable  nursery-gardens,  was  founded  by 
Calvinists  who  were  banished  from  the  Netherlands  by  the  Spaniards 
in  1554.  The  portal  of  the  late-Romanesque  Abbey  Church,  situ- 
ated at  the  back  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  founded  In  1119  and 
consecrated  in  1224,  is  worth  inspection.  Frankenthal  is  connected 
with  the  Rhine  (3  M.  distant)  by  a  canal  constructed  in  1777. 

Fbom  Frankenthal  to  Frbinbheim  (p.  248),  9  M.,  railway  in  35  min. 
(fares  75,  50  pf.)»  Stations  Flomersheim-Eppstein,  Lambsheim,  WeUenheim 
am  Sand. 

38  M.  Oggersheim  (Krone).  The  Loretto  church  here  is  a  fine 
building.  A  memorial  tablet  on  a  house  in  the  Schiller-Strasse 
records  that  Schiller  resided  here  in  1781.  He  was  at  that  time 
engaged  in  writing  his  'Kabale  und  Liebe'. 

41  M.  Ludwigshafen,  see  p.  242.  —  Passengers  for  Mannheim, 
Heidelberg,  etc.,  change  carriages  here.  Route  to  Neustadt,  Neun- 
kirchen,  Landau,  etc.,  see  pp.  250,  261. 


Worms.  —  Hotels.  Near  the  station:  *Eujropaischkb  Hof,  with  re- 
staurant, R.  2-2»/2,  B.  1,  D.  2!/2  m.  ^  "Pfalzek  Hof  ,  unpretending.  —  In 
the  town;  *  Alter  Kaiser,  Andreas-Str.,  near  the  cathedral-;  *H6tkl  Ha*t- 
mann,  Kammerer-Str.  \  these  of  the  first  class.  Bellevue,  opposite  Luther's 
Monument;  Pfalzer  Hof.  —  Railway  Restaurant;  WorreVs  Restaurant,  near 
the  station. 

Worms ,  one  of  the  most  ancient,  and  in  the  middle  ages  most 
important,  towns  in  Germany,  with  19,700  inhab.  (11,000  Profe,- 


ffiif&fi 


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'i'fTi-HTT-f         UJC-L  *     -J  'FfflGStfl'fti  jX^-^^V-  Hit"   7    rS 


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.  to  Ludwigshafen.  WORMS.  34.  Route.     245 

6500  Rom.  Gath.,  and  2000  Jews),  lies  in  the  rich  plain  of  the 
Wonnegau,  8/4  M.  from  the  Rhine.  The  culture  of  the  vine  forms 
the  great  resource  of  the  place,  but  of  late  years  a  number  of  leather 
and  other  manufactories  have  also  been  established. 

Worms  is  the  Roman Borbetomagus,  the  seat  of  the  Vangiones,  which,  after 
the  period  of  the  migrations  of  the  barbarian  hordes ,  became  the  capi- 
tal of  the  kingdom  of  the  Burgundians,  who  had  descended  from  the  Baltic 
Sea  (431).  The  Franconian  kings,  and  afterwards  Charlemagne  and  his  suc- 
cessors, frequently  resided  at  Worms.  The  war  against  the  Saxons  was 
planned  here  in  772,  and  here  the  great  contest  concerning  the  investiture 
of  the  bishops  with  ring  and  staff  was  adjusted  by  the  Concordat  between 
the  Emp.  Henry  V.  and  Pope  CalixtuA  II.  (1122).  As  a  free  city  of  the  Em- 
pire, Worms,  in  the  disputes  between  the  emperors  and  the  princes,  always 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  former,  and  was  specially  faithful  to  the  un- 
fortunate Henry  IV.  Its  fidelity  was  rewarded  by  the  grant  of  various 
privileges,  chiefly  of  a  commercial  character.  The  union  between  Worms 
and  Mayence  laid  the  foundation  for  the  Confederation  of  Rhenish  Towns 
(1264).  At  Worms ,  in  April  1521 ,  was  held  the  Imperial  Diet,  at  which 
Luther  defended  his  doctrines  before  the  Emperor  Charles  V.,  six  Electors, 
and  a  large  and  august  assemblage,  concluding  with  the  words:  lHere  J 
stand,  I  cannot  act  otherwise,  Ood  help  me!    Amen.'* 

In  the  time  of  Frederick  Barbarossa  the  town  contained  70,000  inhab., 
but  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th  cent,  the  number  had  dwindled  to  40,000. 
The  Thirty  Years*  War  proved  very  disastrous  to  Worms,  which  was 
repeatedly  occupied  and  laid  under  contribution  by  Mans f eld  and  Tilly, 
the  Spaniards,  and  the  Swedes.  In  1689  the  town  was  treated  with  savage 
cruelty  by  Melac  and  the  young  Due  de  Crequi.  After  having  been 
pillaged,  it  was  set  on  fire,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the  cathedral  and 
synagogue,  soon  became  one  smouldering  heap  of  ruins.  The  town  re- 
tained its  independence  down  to  the  Peace  of  Lune*ville  in  1801,  and  after 
the  short-lived  French  supremacy  was  annexed  to  Hessen-Darmstadt  in 
1815,  when  its  inhabitants  numbered  about  5000. 

Proceeding  straight  from  the  railway-station  by  the  Carmeliter- 
Strasse,  flanked  by  new  houses  with  gardens ,  we  reach  the  Luther- 
Plat*  with  its  tasteful  pleasure-grounds,  situated  at  the  entrance 
to  the  town,  and  occupying  the  place  of  the  former  ramparts.  It 
is  embellished  with  ♦Luther's  Monument  (PI.  B,  2),  designed  by 
Rietschel,  partially  modelled  by  him,  and  completed  after  his  death 
by  Kietz,  Dondorf,  and  Schilling  of  Dresden  (erected  in  1868). 

This  imposing  memorial  of  the  great  Reformer  of  Germany,  the  execu- 
tion of  which  occupied  nine  years  and  cost  about  17,000  Z.,  merits 
examination.  A  massive  platform,  16  yds.  square  and  O'/a  ft.  high,  bears 
in  its  centre  a  large  pedestal,  surrounded  by  seven  smaller  ones.  The 
central  base  or  pedestal  is  surmounted  by  another  pedestal  in  bronze, 
adorned  with  reliefs  from  Luther's  life,  and  medallion  portraits  of  his 
contemporaries  who  contributed  to  the  Reformation.  On  it  stands  Luther's 
"Statue  in  bronze,  11  ft.  in  height,  a  commanding  figure.  In  his  left  hand 
he  holds  a  Bible,  on  which  his  right  hand  is  placed  emphatically;  while 
his  face,  on  which  faith  is  admirably  pourtrayed,  is  turned  upwards.  'He 
is  surrounded  by  a  row  of  bold  spirits,  who  before,  or  along  with  him 
had  fought  the  last  struggle  for  the  freedom  of  the  Reformation,  or  were 
privileged  to  promote  it  in  various  positions  of  life/  At  the  corners  of 
the  chief  pedestal,  in  a  sitting  posture,  are  four  precursors  of  the  Refor- 
mation: in  front,  r.  *Huss  (d.  1415),  1.  'Savonarola  (d.  1498);  at  the  back, 
*.  Wycliffe  (d.  1887),  1.  Petrus  Waldus  (d.  1197).  On  the  side-pedestals 
in  front  are  Philip  the  Generous  of  Hessen  on  the  right,  and  Frederick  the 
Wise  of  Saxony  on  the  left;  at  the  back  Kelanchthon  on  the  right,  and 
Reuchlin  on  the  left  (each  9  ft.  in  height).  Between  these,  on  lower  ped- 
estals, are  allegorical  figures  of  the  towns  of  (r.)  °Magdeburg  (mourning), 


246     Route  34.  WORMS.  From  Mayence 

(1.)  Augsburg  (making  confession),  and  (at  the  back)  Speyer  (protesting). 
Between  these  figures  are  the  arms  of  the  24  towns  of  Germany  which  first 
embraced  the  reformed  faith. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  Luther -Platz  is  the  Schloss  -  Platz 
(PI,  B,  2),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  cathedral,  the  site  of  the  Bischofs- 
hof,  or  episcopal  palace,  in  which  Luther  made  his  defence  in  1521. 
The  building  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689,  and  again  in 
1794.  On  its  massive  substructure  the  handsome  HeyVsche  Haus  has 
been  erected  in  the  late-Renaissance  style.  HeyVs  Garden,  a  pleasant 
resort,  is  open  from  11  to  5. 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  B,  2),  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul, 
is  a  building  of  very  ancient  origin,  but  nothing  now  remains  of  the 
original  structure.  The  W.  towers,  the  oldest  part  of  the  present 
building,  were  consecrated  in  1110,  the  remainder  of  the  building 
in  1181.  The  S.  portal,  richly  adorned  with  sculptures  of  scriptural 
subjects  and  allegorical  figures  of  the  Church  and  the  Synagogue, 
dates  from  the  14th  century.  With  its  four  elegant  towers  (the 
one  at  the  N.E.  angle  restored  in  1472),  two  domes,  and  double 
choir,  the  Cathedral  ranks,  like  those  of  Speyer  and  Mayence,  among 
the  finest  examples  of  Romanesque  architecture  in  Germany.  The 
exterior  in  particular  is  strikingly  effective. 

The  'Interior  (entrance  on  the  8.  side;  fee  to  the  sacristan,  for 
whom  a  boy  may  be  sent,  50  pf.),  141  yds.  long,  29  yds.  wide,  across  the 
transept  40  yds.  wide,  nave  106  ft.  high,  has  been  recently  restored.  The 
tawdry  decoration  of  the  E.  choir  with  marble  and  gilding  dates  from  the 
18th  century.  The  Sculptures  representing  Daniel  in  the  lions'  den,  in  the 
first  S.  chapel  on  the  right,  and  the  Tombstone  of  the  three  Franconian 
Princesses  of  the  14th  cent.,  now  in  the  17.  aisle,  are  interesting. 

The  Baptistery,  on  the  left  side  of  the  8.  Portal,  contains  some  large 
''High-Reliefs  in  stone,  dating  from  1487  and  1488,  admirably,  executed,  and 
in  excellent  preservation.  They  were  presented  by  noble  families  of 
Worms  and  placed  in  the  old  cloisters  of  1484,  but  on  the  demolition  of 
the  latter  in  1813  were  removed  to  their  present  position;  they  represent 
the  Annunciation,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  Resurrection,  Kativity,  and 
Genealogy  of  Christ.  Here,  too,  is  the  Tombstone  of  the  knight  Bberhard 
von  Heppenheim  (d.  1569),  a  well-executed  kneeling  figure  in  armour. 
The  font  is  from  the  ancient  chapel  of  St.  John,  which  was  taken  down 
in  1807.  The  paintings  of  the  two  patron  saints  of  the  church,  St.  Peter 
and  St.  Paul,  with  other  saints  on  the  back,  dating  from  the  13th  cent., 
alone  escaped  the  French  conflagration. 

It  may  interest  those  versed  in  German  lore  to  know  that  the 
space  in  front  of  the  cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the 
quarrel  between  Brunhilde  and  Chriemhilde,  recorded  in  the  14th 
Adventure  of  the  Nibelungenlied.  —  A  little  to  the  S.W.,  in  the 
Andreas-Platz,  is  the  late-Romanesque  Andreaskirche  (PI,  4;  A,  3), 
near  which  is  the  Luginsland,  a  watch-tower  of  the  13th  century. 
The  vicinity  of  the  Luginsland  and  the  lKatterloch\  outside  the 
Speyerer  Thor,  yield  a  highly  esteemed  wine. 

The  streets  to  the  E.  lead  from  the  cathedral  to  the  Market 
Placb,  which  contains  the  Dreifaltigkeitskirehe  (PI.  5;  B,  3)  or 
church  of  the  Trinity,  built  in  1726.  The  streets  leading  out  of  the 
market-place,  the  Kammerer-Strasse  on  the  N.,  and  the  Speyerer- 


to  Ludwigshafcn.  WORMS.  34.  Routt.     247 

Strasse  on  the  S.,  intersect  the  whole  town.  —  Several  interesting 
old  tombstones ,  chiefly  of  Roman  soldiers ,  are  immured  in  the 
court  of  the  Stadihaus  (PI.  11  -,  B,  3). 

Near  the  Mainzer  Thor,  in  the  Grosse  Judengasse,  which  diverges 
to  the  right  of  the  Kammerer-Strasse,  is  the  Synagogue  (PI.  12; 
C,  1X2),  an  insignificant  building  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  but 
completely  remodelled  in  the  13th  cent,  and  now  quite  modernised. 
The  Jewish  community  of  Worms  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  Germany, 
r—  The  Paulutkirche  (PI.  9;  C,  3),  recently  restored,  eontains  a 
museum  of  mediaeval  antiquities,  chiefly  of  the  Romanesque  period* 

In  the  Mainzer  suburb,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Swedes  and 
French ,  the  late-Gothic  *Liebfrauenkirche  (Church  of  our  Lady ; 
PI.  E,  1),  V2M.  from  the  Mainzer  Thor,  alone  escaped.  The  church, 
which  has  been  lately  restored,  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cruciform  basilica, 
with  a  triforium  and  two  W.  towers.  It  replaces  an  older  edifice, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1467 ;  the  keystone  of  the  vaulted  roof  bears 
the  arms  of  the  different  corporations  of  Worms  who  caused  it  to  be 
built.  The  only  object  of  interest  in  the  interior  is  a  curious  old 
painted  sculpture  of  the  Entombment,  with  life-size  figures,  to  the 
right  of  the  principal  entrance.  The  stained  glass  is  modern.  The 
W.  Portal  is  enriched  with  sculpture.  The  wine  called  Licbfraucn- 
milch  (see  Introd.)  is  yielded  by  vineyards  near  the  church.- — To 
regain  the  station  (i/2  M.)  we  turn  to  the  right  (W.). 

The  Rhine  anciently  flowed  round  a  meadow  known  as  the 
Bos engarten  (PI.  F,  4),  on  the  right  bank,  opposite  Worms  (now 
the  terminus  of  the  Darmstadt  and  Frankfort  railway,  p.  224).  To 
this  spot  attach  many  ancient  traditions ,  preserved  in  the  Nibe- 
lungen  and  other  heroic  poems.  Worms  is,  indeed,  the  centre  of 
these  romantic  legends. 

Herntheim,  3  M.  to  the  N.W.,  contains  the  chateau  of  the  Palbergs, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  and  illustrious  families  in  Germany. 


35.  From  Bingen  or  Mayence  to  Alzey  and  Neustadt, 

Railway  phom  Bingen  to  Alzey,  2072  M.,  in  ly«  hr.  (fares  2  m.  75, 
1  m.  85,  1  m.  20  pf.).  FaoM  Mayence  to  Alzey,  27  M. ,  in  l»/a  hr. 
(fares  3  m.  45,  2  m.  30,  1  m,  50  pf.).  From  Alzey  to  Neustadt  ('Hessische 
Ludwigsbahn"  to  Monsheim,  and  beyond  it  'PfaMsche  Bahn'),  37  M.,  in 
174-2y4  hrs.  (2nd  cl.  3  m.  30  pf.).  The  route  from  Mayence  to  Neustadt 
via  Ludwigahafen  is  preferable  (express  in  274  hrs.). 

Fbom  Bingen  (p.  115)  to  Axzby.  The  train  leaves  the  Rhine 
at  (2  M.)  Kemptcn,  and  turns  southwards.  —  4t/2  M.  Budesheim- 
Dromersheirrij  wine-producing  places ;  7  M.  Qensingen-HorrweiUr ; 
9  M.  Welgeihcim-Zotzenheim ;  10  M.  Sprendlingen ;  1272M.  Qau- 
bicktlheim;  14  M.  Wallertheim.  At  (16  M.)  Armsheim^  with  a  fine 
Gothic  church  of  1430,  a  hranoh-line  diverges  to  Floriheim,  whence 
a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  to  Wonsheim  and  (5  M.)  the  farm  of 
Iben,  where  there  is  a  fine  Romanesque  chapel ,  restored  in  1876. 
—  191/2 M.  Albig;  20V2M.  Alzey. 


248     Route  35.  ALZEY.  From  Bingen 

From  Maybncb  (p.  136)  to  Alzbt.  —  1  M.  Gartenfeld,  472M. 
Gonsenkeim,  favourite  resorts  of  the  Mainsers.  A  tower  on  the 
Lennebcrg,  1  hr.  from  Gonsenheim,  commands  a  fine  view.  To  the 
left  is  the  Roman  aqueduct  of  Zahlbach ;  to  the  right  lies  Fin  then. 

—  71/2  M.  Marienbom;  10  M.  Klein-  Winterheim ;  1272M.  Meder- 
Olm;  I51/2  M.  Nicdcr-Saulheim;  19  M.  Worrstadt ;  22 »/2  M.  Arms- 
heim  (see  above) ;  25*/2  M.  Albig ;  27  M .  Alzey. 

Alaey  (Hotel  Maschmann),  a  Hessian  town  with  5500  inhab., 
on  the  Selz,  possesses  a  late-Gothic  church  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1687. 

On  the  Petersberg,  near  Gavcdernheim,  6  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Alzey 
(beyond  Kimgernheim),  are  the  remains  of  a  monastery  founded  about  1200, 
which  was  excavated  in  1877;  the  Romanesque  crypt  contains  fragments 
of  pilasters.    The  hill  commands  a  beautiful  view. 

From  Alzey  to  Lanomkil  (for  Kaitertlautern),  22  M.,  railway  in 
I1/4  hr.  (fares  1  m.  90.  1  m.  25  pf.).  3  M.  Wahtheim;  7  M.  Morschheim; 
10  M.  Kirchheimbolanden  (Hdtel  Decker \  or  Traube;  Bechtelsheimer),  a  busy 
little  town,  with  a  chateau  of  the  former  princes  of  Nassau- Weilburg, 
restored  after  a  fire  in  1861.  —  13  M.  Marnheim,  etc.,  see  below. 

From  Kirchheimbolanden  to  the  Donvbrsbrrg.  A  good  road  ascends 
from  the  town  to  (4M.)  Dannenfels  COiimbeL  *  Lander ',  both,  unpretending  \ 
Pension  Donnersberg,  in  the  Villa  Decker),  situated  on  the  slope  to  the  S. 
of  the  road,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  old  chestnut-trees,  and  visited  as  a 
summer-resort.  From  the  Villa  Decker  a  pleasant  path,  provided  with 
finger-posts,  ascends  by  the  Wacht  am  Rhein,  MoltkefeU  (with  tablets  in 
memory  of  the  war  of  1870-71),  and  HirtenfeU,  three  fine  points  of  view, 
to  (1  hr.)  the  top  of  the  Donnersberg  (2344  ft.),  the  Hon*  Jovi*  of  the  Romans, 
and  the  French  Mont  Tonnerre.  The  tower  on  the  summit  (key  obtained 
at  Dannenfels),  98  ft.  in  height,  commands  an  extensive  view,  embracing 
the  course  of  the  Rhine  upwards  to  a  point  near  Speyer,  the  Haardt  M ts. 
towards  the  S. ,  and  the  Odenwald  and  Taunns  to  the  E.  About  1  If . 
to  the  W.  of  the  tower  is  the  Kdnigttuhl,  affording  a  beautiful  view 
towards  the  W.  —  From  Rockenhausen  (p.  150),  a  railway  -  station  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  mountain,  the  ascent  occupies  the  same  time.  A  road 
leads  thence  to  (4  H.)  the  village  of  Marienthal,  where  the  handsome 
modern-Gothic  church  contains  good  monuments  of  Counts  of  Falkenstein 
(one  with  seven  children,  who  died  in  1556-63)  from  an  earlier  church. 
From  Marienthal  to  the  tower  (with  guide  and  the  key)  1  hr.  —  The 
Donnersberg  may  also  be  ascended  from  Winntoeiler  (p.  150;  through  the 
Falkenstein  valley*  steep.  8  hrs.),  or  from  Marnheim.  (see  below  \  2  hra.). 

—  Dannenfels  is  about  3  M.  from  QMlheim  (see  below). 

Fkom  Alzbt  toNbustadt.  —  2^2  M.  Kettenheim;  5M.  Eppels- 
heim;  7M.  Gundersheim;  972M.  Niedcrfldrsheim ;  12  M.  Monsheim, 
the  junction  for  Worms  (p.  244)  and  for  Marnheim  and  Langmeil. 

From  Monsheim  to  Langmeil,  22  M.  —  2  M.  Wachenheim;  4  M. 
Harxheim-Zell ,  on  the  Pfriembach,  with  extensive  vineyards;  5>/»  M. 
Albisheim;  9  M.  Marnheim,  where  the  Alzey  line  diverges  (see  above). 

10»/2  M.  Gdllheim-Dreisen.  —  The  village  of  Gftllheim  (Goldenes  Ross) 
lies  IV2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  station.  Near  it  rises  the  HatenbUhl,  where 
Emperor  Adolph  of  Nassau  was  defeated  and  slain  by  Albert  of  Austria 
on  2nd  July,  1298.  At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  town  is  a  modern  Chapel  de- 
signed by  Voit,  into  the  walls  of  which  is  built  the  old  'Konigskreuz\  a 
figure  of  the  Saviour  in  red  sandstone,  erected  on  the  battle-field  in  the 
14th  century.  Below  the  cross  is  the  inscription :  '•Anno  milleno  trecentis  bit 
minut  annit  Julio  mense  Rex  Adolphvs  cadii  en»e\  with  an  addition  to  the 
effect  that  the  monument  was  restored  by  Count  Lewis  of  Nassau  in  1611. 

18  M.  Bdrrstadt;  22  M.  Langmeil.    The  Alsenz  line,  see  p.  150. 

I21/2 M.  Hohensulzen;  U1/2M.  Bockenheim ;  1672M.  Albsheim. 


to  Neustadt.  DtJRKHEIM.  35.  Route.     249 

171/2  M.  Grunitadt  (Hotel  Ilgen ;  Pfalzcr  Hof)  was  the  residence 
of  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  down  to  the  time  of  the  French  Re- 
volution. The  ruins  of  their  old  chateaux  of  Alt-  and  Neu- Leiningen, 
which  were  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1690,  lie  on  a  hill  in  the 
distance  to  the  right. 

From  Gbdnstadt  to  Eisbhbbrg,  railway  in  V2  hr.  (fares  80,  56,  35  pf.). 
—  The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Eitbach,  passing  numerous  paper- 
mills.  1V«  H.  Asselheim;  2»/2  M.  Mertetheim;  4  M.  Ebertsheim;  5>/»  M. 
Bisenberg  (Reisinger).  A  picturesque  road  leads  from  Eisenberg  to  (3M.) 
Oollheim  (see  above). 

20  M.  Kirchheim -an-der- Eck.  From  (23 1/2  M. >  Freinsheim 
a  branch-line  diverges  to  Frankenthal  (see  p.  244).  24  M.  Erpolz- 
heim.   Extensive  vineyards  in  every  direction. 

27  M.  Durkheim  (380  ft. ;  *Vicr  Jahreszeiten ,  on  the  E.  side ; 
*Hausling,  near  the  station,  R.  1  m.  70,  B.  80 pf. ;  Zum  Haatdt- 
gebirge,  unpretending,  well  spoken  of ;  Orafs  Hotel  Garni),  with 
7000  inhab.,  one  of  the  busiest  towns  In  the  Palatinate,  with  its 
conspicuous  new  Gothic  spire,  is  beautifully  situated  among  the 
vineyards  of  the  Haardt  Mts.  The  town  was  almost  entirely  rebuilt 
after  the  destruction  of  the  castle  of  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  by 
the  Elector  Palatine  Frederick  in  1471,  and  again  after  the  ravages 
of  the  French  in  1689.  It  afterwards  enjoyed  great  prosperity  as 
the  residence  of  the  Princes  of  Leiningen-Hartenburg,  whose  hand- 
some palace,  in  which  Iffland  once  acted,  and  which  was  burned 
down  by  the  French  in  1794,  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  town- 
hall.  The  neighbouring  salt-baths  of  Philippshalle ,  which  attract 
visitors  in  spring,  were  rented  by  a  French  company  in  1881,  and 
considerably  enlarged.  The  town,  which  is  surrounded  by  pleasant 
promenades,  is  much  visited  in  autumn  for  the  grape-cure.  A  large 
sausage-fair,  numerously  attended  by  the  people  of  the  surrounding 
districts,  is  held  at  Durkheim  in  September. 

On  an  abrupt  eminence  at  the  entrance  to  the  Isenachthal,  about  1  M. 
from  Durkheim,  lie  the  picturesque  ruins  of.  the  Benedictine  Abbey  of 
*Limburg,  once  a  chateau  of  the  Salic  Count  Conrad  the  Elder,  who  was 
elected  king  of  Germany  in  1024  (Conrad  II.).  His  eldest  son  Conrad 
having  perished  while  engaged  in  hunting,  the  king  determined  to 
convert  his  ancestral  castle  into  a  religions  house  for  the  welfare  of  his 
son's  soul.  On  12th  July,  1030,  at  4  a.m.,  as  the  chroniclers  inform  ns, 
he  and  his  queen  Gisela  accordingly  laid  the  foundation-stone  of  the 
church,  and  at  a  later  hour  on  the  same  day  he  is  said  to  have  also  laid 
the  first  stone  of  the  Speyer  cathedral.  The  Abbey  of  Limburg  was  com- 
pleted twelve  years  later  and  presented  to  the  Benedictines,  who  soon 
acquired  large  possessions.  The  abbots  placed  themselves  under  the 
protection  of  the  Hartenburg  Counts  of  Leiningen,  but  having  quarrelled 
with  them,  their  abbey  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Count  Emich  VIII. 
in  1501.  The  buildings  were  partially  re-erected  between  1515  and  1554, 
but  the  abbey  having  been  suppressed  by  Elector  Frederick  III.  in.  1574, 
they  gradually  fell  to  decay.  The  ruins  of  the  imposing  Basilica,  which 
now  belong  to  government,  afford  an  admirable  example  of  the  style 
of  the  11th  cent.,  and  are  surrounded  with  pleasant  grounds.  The  8.W. 
tower,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent.,  commands  a  fine  view 
(197  steps).  Part  of  the  original  cloisters  and  the  burial-chapel,  which  is 
open  at  the  top,  are  still  preserved.  Charming  view  in  three  different 
directions.    (Tavern  at  the  top.) 


250     Route  36.      NEUSTADT  AN  DER  HAARDT. 

We  may  now  proceed  towards  the  W.,  either  by  a  hilly  path  along 
the  heights,  or  by  Haute*,  to  the  "Hartenburg,  the  conspicuous  red  ruins 
of  which  are  situated  in  the  Isenachthal,  2lfc  M.  from  the  Limburg.  This 
extensive  castle  was  erected  by  the  Counts  of  Leiningen  about  the  year 
1200,  and  was  afterwards  enlarged;  in  1510  it  was  restored  in  the  Re- 
naissance style,  and  in  1794  it  was  blown  up  by  the  French.  The  ruin  is 
surrounded  with  pleasant  promenades.  On  the  E.  side,  on  the  path  from 
the  Limburg,  there  is  a  large  grass-plot  where  tournaments  were  once 
held,  planted  with  fine  lime-trees,  and  commanding  a  pleasing  Survey  of 
the  valley.  At  the  foot  of  the  castle  lies  the  village  of  Hartenburg  (Hirsch), 
3  M.  from  Durkheim  by  the  high-road.  —  A  walk  from  Hartenburg;  up 
the  pretty  Isenachthal  to  Frankenstein  (p.  255)  takes  about  3  hours. 

To  the  N.  W.  of  Dtirkheim  rises  the  wooded  Kastctnienberg,  the  summit 
of  which  is  enclosed  by  a  rude  stone  rampart,  57-100  ft.  broad,  7-13  ft. 
high,  and  about  372  M.  in  circumference,  called  the  Heidenmauer,  and 
probably,  like  the  similar  structure  on  the  Altkonig  (p.  219),  of  ancient  Ger- 
manic origin.  On  the  right  the  rampart  is  overtopped  by  the  Teufeltttein, 
a  rock  13  ft.  in  height.  The  'heathens'  wair  and  the  abbey  of  Limburg 
furnished  Cooper  with  the  materials  for  one  of  his  novels.  The  paths 
are  provided  with  finger-posts,  which  indicate  the  way  to  several  good 
points  of  view.  Among  the  finest  of  these  are  the  Flaggenthurm  (see 
below)  and  the  Peter  thopf  (1630  ft.),  y^r.  from  the  Teufelsstein.  At  the 
foot  of  the  latter  is  the  forester's  house  Weilach. 

On  the  hill  to  the  right,  beyond  Durkheim,  we  observe  the 
Limburg,  and  nearer  the  railway  rises  the  'Flaggenthurm'  (view).  — • 
29 V2  M.  Wachenheim  (Dalberger  Hof);  on  the  hill  lies  the  ruined 
Wachtcnburg,  or  Oeiersburg,  once  the  property  of  the  Salic. dukes, 
and  afterwards  that  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  destroyed  in  1689.  The 
handsome  country-houses  and  gardens  here  belong  to  wealthy  wine- 
merchants.  To  the  left  lies  Forst,  a  village  which  yields  excellent 
wine.  —  31 V2  M.  Deidesheim  (Schuler)  is  another  wine-producing 
place  and  the  residence  of  many  extensive  vineyard-proprietors. 
34Y2  M.  Mussbach ;  on  the  hill  to  the  right  lie  the  long  villages  of 
Konigshofen  and  Gimmeldingen. 

37  M.  Neustadt,  see  below. 

36.  From  Ludwigshafen  to  Weissenburg  and 
Strassburg. 

Railway  to  Weissenburg  (48  M.)  in  l3/4-2y2  hrs.*  fares  6  m.  20,  4  m.  10, 
2  m.  65  pf. ;  express,  7  m.  10  pf.,  or  4  m.  —  Express  from  Ludwigshafen 
to  Strassburg  (89  M.)  in  3»/«  hrs. ;  fares  13  m.,  9  m.  20  pf. 

Ludwigshafen,  see  p.  242.  The  train  traverses  the  fertile  plain 
of  the  Rhine,  with  its  extensive  vineyards  and  fields  of  corn  and 
tobacco.  —  3  M.  Bheingonheim ;  5  M.  Mutterstadt.  —  7V2  M. 
Schifferstadt,  the  junction  for  Speyer  (5*/2  M. ;  fares  55,  35  pf.)  and 
Germersheim  (see  p.  257). 

The  train  approaches  the  Haardt  Mts.  —  lO1/^  M.  Bbhl-Iggel- 
heim;  124/2  M.  Hassloch;  19  M.  Neustadt,  junction  for  the  lines  to 
Durkheim,  Alzey  (R.  33),  and  Kaiserslautern-Neunkirohen  (R.  37). 
Carriages  generally  changed  here. 

Neuatadt  an  der  Haardt.  —  Hotels.  'Railway  Hotel,  in  the  Saal- 
bau  (see  below),  with  restaurant  and  garden;  *Lowe,  B.  &  B.  21/*  m. 
Weisses  Lamm*,  PfalzerHof;  BayrischerHof;  H6trl  Bender,  at  some 


MAXBURG.  36.  Route.     251 

distance  from  the  station.  Villa  Augubtahohk,  with'  'pension',  >/*  M- 
from  the  station ,  in  the  direction  of  the  village  of  Haardt.  —  "Railway 
Restaurant.  Beer  at  Frank's,  Kallmayer's,  and  the  "PostmiiMe,  the  last 
with  a  garden  and  baths. 

Neustadt,  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  valley  of  the  Speyer- 
bach,  the  largest  town  in  the  Haardt  district  (11}300  inhab."),  pos- 
sesses several  manufactories,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  wine- 
trade.  (Palatinate  wines,  see  Introd.)  Near  the  station  is  the 
Saalbau,  a  Renaissance  edifice,  built  by  a  company  in  1871-72  as 
a  hall  for  balls,  concerts,  and  meetings.  The  handsome  Gothic 
Abbey  Church,  founded  in  1354  and  completed  in  1489,  contains 
the  tombstones  of  several  of  the  Counts  Palatine,  the  founders  of 
Neustadt.  The  Rom.  Gath.  Ludwigskirche,  a  modern-Gothic  Church, 
was  consecrated  in  1862.  The  Stadthauf,  formerly  a  Jesuit  college, 
was  built  in  1743. 

Neustadt,  being  the  intersecting  point  of  the  various  railways 
of  the  Palatinate,  makes  an  admirable  starting-point  for  excursions 
in  the  Haardt  district.  Tours  in  this  neighbourhood  and  throughout 
the  whole  of  the  Palatinate  have  been  greatly  facilitated  by  the 
praiseworthy  exertions  of  the  'Pfalzer  VerschSnerungsverein'  in 
making  paths  and  erecting  finger-posts. 

About  74  M.  from  the  station  is  the  Schietshaus  (Inn),  and  '/<  M  to  the 
W.  is  the  Schiltzenhous  (Restaurant),  both  affording  good  views  of  Neustadt. 
Farther  on,  at  about  the  same  height  above  the  valley,  opens  the  SchOnthal, 
with  its  .beautiful  fountains  (Restaurant);  opposite  rises  the  Wolfsburg 
(see  below).  A  walk  through  the  Schonthal  brings  us  to  the  (*/*  M.)  shady 
Kaltenbrunner-Thal,  which  begins  at  the  KOnigsmilhle  (Restaurant;  one- 
horse  carr.  from  Neustadt  3  m.). 

About  17*  M.  to  the  N.  of  Neustadt  lies  the  small  village  of  Haardt, 
near  which  rises  the  castle  of  Winzingen,  or  ''Haardter  Schlos$\  recently 
rebuilt  in  the  French  Renaissance  style.  Beyond  the  village,  near  the 
church,  are  the  *  Wolfschen  Anlagen  (open  to  the  public),  which  command 
an  admirable  survey  of  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  (evening-light  best).  — By 
the  second  house  in  Haardt  is  a  finger-post,  indicating  the  way  (left)  to 
the  'Haardter  Thalchen".  In  the  last  house  to  the  right  is  kept  the  key 
of  the  tower  on  the  (>/4  hr.)  Weinbiet  (1830  ft.),  which  commands  an 
extensive  view.  Finger-posts  indicate  the  way  thence  to  the  (25  min.) 
*Bergatein  (1640  ft.),  affording  a  beautiful  view  of  Neustadt,  the  Speyer- 
bachtbal,  and  the  Schonthal.  From  theBergstein  we  proceed  to  the  (40  min.) 
ruin  of  Wolfsburg  and  thence  to  (40  min.)  Neustadt. 

From  Nsustadt  to  the  Maxburq,  ly*  hr.  —  From  the  road  between 
the  station  and  the  town  we  turn  to  the  S. ,  passing  the  Schiesshaus  On 
the  left.  [After  5  min.  we  reach  a  finger-post  on  the  right,  pointing  out 
the  way  to  the  (1  hr.)  pavilion  on  the  Nollen  (1640  ft.),  whence  we  may 
reach  the  Maxburg  in  an  hour  more.]  At  (25  min.)  Oberhambach  we  ascend 
the  steep  paved  path  to  the  right;  xji  hr.,  finger-post',  25  min.,  the  top 
(custodian  40  pf.).  The  'Maxburg,  or  Hatnbacher  Schloss,  formerly  called 
the  Kestenburg  ('chestnut  castle'),  is  conspicuously  situated  on  a  spur  of 
the  Haardt,  1080  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  about  650  ft.  above  the  plain. 
The  handsome  chateau  was  re-erected  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Voit,  by 
order  of  Max  II.  of  Bavaria,  but  is  in  a  neglected  condition.  Large  frag- 
ments of  Roman  walls  are  still  exposed  to  view,  this  having  probably  been 
the  site  of  one  of  the  castra  stativa  which  commanded  Germania  Superior. 
The  mediaeval  castle,  which  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Henry  II.,  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Bishops  of  Speyer  in  1100.  In  the  Peasant  War 
of  1525  the  castle  was  pillaged  and  destroyed,  but  a  few  years  later  was 
restored  at  the  expense  of  the  peasantry.    In  1552  it  was  burned  down  by 


252     Route  36.  LANDAU.         From  Ludwigshafen 

Margrave  Albert  Alcibiades  of  Brandenburg,  and,  like  most  of  the  castles 
in  the  Palatinate,  was  finally  destroyed  by  the  mercenaries  of  the  'moat 
Christian'  Grand  Monarque  in  1688.  On  27th  May,  1832,  the  'Hambacher 
Feat",  the  first  great  public  meeting  in  Germany,  took  place  here. 

A  steep  path  descends  from  the  Maxburg  to  (*/«  hr.)  Diedesfeld  and 
(Va  hr.)  the  railway-station  of  Maikammer  (see  below).  —  Or  from  the 
Maxburg  we  may  proceed  to  (V2  hr.)  the  village  of  Maikammer,  (1  hr.)  Eden- 
koben,  (Va  hr.)  Rhodt,  and  the  Villa  Lvdwiaihdhe  (see  below). 

Neustadt  is  a  terminal  station.  The  train  next  skirts  the  exten- 
sive vineyards  of  the  Haardt  district,  commanding  beautiful  views, 
especially  by  morning  light.  —  22  72  M.  Maikammer ;  to  the  right 
rises  the  Maxburg  (see  above*),  which  may  be  reached  hence  in 
1  hr. ;  farther  distant  Is  the  Kalmii  (2230  ft,  above  the  sea-level, 
with  a  belvedere  at  the  top),  which  may  be  ascended  from  Neustadt 
via  the  Kaltenbrunner-Thal  in  2  hours.  On  a  height  more  to  the 
S.,  by  the  village  of  St.  Martin,  2  M.  from  Maikammer,  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Kropsburg,  which  once  belonged  to  the  Dalbergs  down 
to  1790.  On  the  Steigerkopf  (2047  ft.),  6  M.  to  the  W.,  is  the 
Schanzel,  in  defending  which  General  von  Pfau  lost  his  life  in  1794. 

24 V2  M.  Edenkoben  [*Schaaf,  with  pleasant  garden ;  P falter 
Hof),  a  cheerful  little  town,  with  a  sulphur-spring,  is  much  fre- 
quented for  the  grape-cure  in  autumn.  Near  the  thriving  village 
of  Rhodt,  3  M.  from  Edenkoben,  is  seen  the  royal  Villa  Ludwigs- 
Kohe,  above  which  rises  the  ruined  Rietburg  or  Rippburg.  The  villa, 
built  for  Lewis  I.  by  Gartner,  commands  a  charming  view. 

26  M.  Edeiheim;  2872  M.  Knoringen.  The  train  crosses  the 
Queich,  which  formed  the  boundary  between  Alsace  and  the  Palatinate 
down  to  1815,  and  separates  the  Vosges  and  Haardt  Mts. 

30 1/2  M.  Landau  (fPfalzer  Hof,  in  the  market,  R.  l1/*^  m. ; 
*Schwan,  or  Port ;  Zur  Gewerbehalle ;  Kbrber,  at  the  Franzos.  Thor, 
unpretending ;  omnibus  into  the  town  25  pf.),  a  town  with  7000 
inhab.  (V2  Protestants),  was  a  fortified  place  at  an  early  period.  In 
the  Thirty  Years1  War  it  was  besieged  and  taken  seven  times ;  in 
1680  it  was  captured  by  Louis  XTV.,  and  in  1686  it  was  fortified 
by  Vauban.  From  the  Peace  of  Rastatt  (1714)  down  to  1815  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  French,  after  which  it  was  annexed  to 
Bavaria.    In  1867  the  fortifications  were  removed. 

From  Landau  to  Oermer»heimy  see  p.  261. 

From  Landau  to  Annweiler  and  ZweHbrUcken,  see  B.  39. 

About  5  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Landau  (diligence  once  daily)  is  the  village 
of  Gleiaweiler  (1066  ft.),  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Tevfelsbera  (I960  ft. ; 
*View  of  the  Vosges),  with  a  large  Hydropathic  Establishment,  with  whey, 
grape,  and  'cow-house  air'  cures  (also  a  Hotel;  'pension'  and  medical  at- 
tendance, 30-50  m.  per  week).  Pleasant  walk  of  l1/*  hr.  to  the  S.W.  to  the 
ruin  of  Sehar/eneek,  with  fine  views. 

To  the  right  are  visible  the  Madenburg,  the  Trifels,  the  Munz- 
berg,  and  the  Rehberg  (oomp.  pp.  262,  263).  —  34  M.  Inthekn; 
35 V*  M.  Rohrbach.  38  M.  Winden,  junction  for  Maxau  and  Carls- 
ruhe  (see  p.  313),  and  for  Bergzabern. 

Fboh  Winden  to  Berobabekm,  6  M. ,  railway  in  l/t  hr.  (fares  55, 
35 pf.).  —  Intermediate  stations:  BarbeWoth-Oberhau**n,Kap€llen-Drv$u«iler, 


to  Strassburg.  WEISSENBURG.  36.  Route.    253 

Bergsabern  (Rdssle;  Pjlug)  is  an  old  town,  with  partly  preserved  forti- 
fications.   Diligence  hence  once  daily  to  (16  M.)  Dahn  ( p.  263). 

4272  M-  Sehaidt-Steinfeld ;  45  M.  Kapsweyer,  the  last  Bavarian 
station.  The  train  enters  Alsace  and  crosses  the  hauler.  To  the  left 
are  the  Bienwald  and  the  Geisberg  (see  below). 

48  M.  Weissenbnrg  (*Engel>  Sehwan ,  in  the  town ;  Acker's 
Gcuthofy  at  the  railway-station),  a  very  ancient  town  with  5800  in- 
hab. ,  mentioned  in  history  as  early  as  the  Merovingian  kings,  was 
the  seat  of  an  independent  abbey ,  founded  by  Dagobert  II. ,  down 
to  1534.  The  * 'Abbey  Church  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  is  a  noble 
example  of  the  early-Gothic  style  (13th  cent.),  with  a  tower  above 
the  centre  of  the  transept.  In  the  interior  are  fine  stained-glass 
windows,  of  the  13th  (Romanesque;  on  the  S.  side),  14th,  and 
15th  centuries.  It  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  side  by  handsome  Gothic 
cloisters,  which  have  been  recently  restored  and  converted  into  a 
Museum  for  Antiquities  found  in  the  vicinity  of  Weissenburg.  The 
Johanniskirche,  partly  Romanesque  in  style,  and  many  of  the  pri- 
vate houses  are  also  interesting  edifices. 

On  4th  Aug.,  1870,  part  of  the  German  army  under  the  Crown  Prince 
of  Prussia  gained  a  decisive  victory  here  over  the  French  under  Abel  Douay. 
The  town,  defended  by  a  simple  wall,  and  the  Geisberg,  2  M.  to  the  8., 
were  occupied  by  the  French,  but  were  attacked  by  Prussians  from  the  E. 
and  Bavarians  from  the  N.,  and  both  taken  after  a  severe  struggle.  In 
order  to  form  an  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  ground,  the  traveller  should 
follow  the  Lauterburg  road,  turn  to  the  right  about  1  M.  from  the  station, 
cross  the  railway,  and  proceed  by  a  footpath  to  the  (*/«  H.)  Outleithof  and 
the  (3A  H.)  chateau  of  Q  either  g,  now  a  farm-house,  round  which  the 
struggle  was  very  hotly  contested.  Fine  view  from  the  terrace  on  the  E. 
side.  Douay  fell  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  on  the  way  to  which  numerous 
graves  of  the  fallen  are  passed.  The  traveller  may  now  return  by  the 
Hagenau  road  on  the  W.  side,  a  round  of  2-272  hrs.  in  all. 

A  new  path,  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  ascends  gradually  from 
the  Hagenauer  Thor  to  the  °Beherhohl  (1664  ft.),  a  fine  point  of  view, 
3  M.  to  the  W.  of  Weissenburg,  to  the  right  of  the  road  to  Bitsch.  There 
is  a  tower  at  the  top.  —  The  excursion  may  be  pleasantly  extended  by 
the  Bitsch  road  to  Lembach  (9  M.  from  Weissenburg)  and  (1572  M.)  Ober- 
steinbach  (p.  264). 

On  quitting  Weissenburg  the  train  describes  a  circuit  round  the 
Geisberg,  passes  stations  Biedaelz,  Hundsbach,  and  Boffen,  and 
reaches  — 

58  M.  Sul*  unter  dem  Walde  (Bowie),  the  best  starting-point 
for  a  visit  to  the  battle-fleld  of  6th  Aug.  1870.  —  At  Lobsann  and 
SchwabweiUr,  near  Sulz,  petroleum  and  asphalt  are  obtained. 

Leaving  the  station,  the  traveller  follows  the  road  as  far  as  the  middle 
of  the  village,  and  then  turns  to  the  left.  Beyond  the  village  the  road  to 
(127s  M.)  Beichshofen  leads  to  the  left  to  Kiltzenhausen  and  Merckweiler. 
On  the  right,  a  little  farther,  lies  Preuschdor/,  whence  the  5th  Prussian 
corps  marched  on  the  morning  of  6th  August.  At  the  point  where  the  road 
begins  to  descend  into  the  valley  of  the  Saver >  a  few  paces  beyond  a 
linger-post  (47a  M.  from  Sulz),  which  indicates  the  road  to  Tiefenbach  to 
the  left,  and  Qotrtdorf  to  the  right,  an  admirable  view  of  the  entire 
battle-field  is  disclosed  (the  Crown-Prince  was  stationed  in  the  fields  to 
the  right):  in  the  valley  opposite  the  spectator  lies  Worth  (•  Weisse*  Pferd), 
with  its  ancient  castle-tower,  which  with  FrOschweiler  and  Elsatshauten 
to   the  left,  also  situated  on  the  hill,  formed  the  centre  of  the  French 


254     Route  36.  HAGENAU, 

position.  By  noon  the  Germane  had  possessed  themselves  of  Worth,  but 
the  height  of  F roach weiler  held  out  against  them  until  the  11th  corps 
advanced  from  Ounstett  behind  the  woods  and  stormed  Elsasshausen,  and 
the  Bavarians  marched  up  from  Langeiuultbach,  the  red  roofs  of  which 
peep  through  the  woods  on  the  right.  From  Worth  (following  the  road  to 
the  right  in  the  village)  to  FrSschweiler  is  a  walk  of  20  minutes.  The 
church  of  Froschweiler  was  destroyed,  with  the  exception  of  the  outer 
walls,  but  a  new  one,  the  tower  of  which  overlooks  the  whole  of  the 
battle-field,  has  been  built.  To  the  S.E.  of  JSberbachy  in  the  direction  of 
Morsbronn,  is  the  point  where  the  French  cavalry  made  its  gallant  onset, 
which  certainly  covered  the  retreat  of  the  infantry,  but  resulted  in  the 
destruction  of  the  whole  brigade  of  horse.  The  battle-field  is  now  strewn 
with  monuments,  the  principal  German  one  being  near  Elsasshausen  and 
the  largest  French  one  to  the  N.  of  the  road  from  Worth  to  Froschweiler. 
From  FroachweUer  to  Reichshoftn  (p.  273),  2i/«  M. ;  and  on  to  Niederbronn 
(p.  278),  1V4  M.  more. 

The  line  now  traverses  part  of  the  Forest  of  Hagenau,  which  is 
45,000  acres  in  extent. 

6372  M.  Walburg,  a  small  village  in  the  forest,  with  a  fine 
church  of  the  15th  century. 

6872  M-  Hagenau  {Europaischer  Hof;  Post;  Wilder  Mann, 
good  red  wine),  with  11,300  inhabitants,  was  once  a  free  town  of 
the  German  Empire  and  a  fortress,  the  works  of  which  are  partly 
preserved.  The  walls  were  erected  by  Emp.  Frederick  I.  in  1164. 
The  palace  erected  by  the  same  emperor,  afterwards  a  favourite 
residence  of  the  Hohenstaufen,  was  destroyed  in  the  17th  century. 
Part  of  the  conspicuous  Church  of  8t.  George  dates  from  the  12th 
century.  The  choir  contains  a  colossal  wooden  figure  of  Christ, 
executed  in  1488.  The  fine  candelabrum  of  the  13th  cent.,  and 
the  modern  stained  glass  also  deserve  attention.  Herr  Nessel  pos- 
sesses a  collection  of  coins  and  antiquities  found  in  the  vicinity. 
—  To  the  E.  of  the  town  and  S.  of  the  Hagenauer  Wald  lie  the 
artillery-ran  ges . 

Railway  to  Saargemund,  Metz,  and  Saarbrucken,  see  p.  273. 

71  M.  Marienthal,  with  a  nunnery,  dissolved  in  1789;  73  M. 
BtichweUer,  with  cloth-manufactories.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Zorn.  —  79  M.  Hbrdt. 

83  M.  Vtndenheim,  junction  for  the  Saarb urg-Zabern  line(R.  42). 

Then  several  unimportant  villages,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
which  are  some  of  the  new  outworks  of  Straasburg.  —  89  M.  Strass- 
burgt  p.  264. 

37.    From  Mannheim  (LudwigsAafen)  to  Neunkirchen 

(Saarbrucken). 

72  M.  Railway  (Pfdlzitche  Eisenbahn)  in  SVr^A  hrs. ;  fares  9  m.  50, 
6  m.  30,  4  m.  10  pf.  (express  10  m.  80,  7  m.  60  pf.). 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  the  new  Railway  Bridge  (p.  242), 
which  affords  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  the  river,  to  (2  M.)  Ludwigs- 
hafen  (p.  242).    Thence  to  (21  M.)  Heustadt,  see  p.  250. 

Neustadt  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Durkheim  (R.  35)  and  to 
Landau  (R.  36).    The  Saarbrucken  line  now  enters  the  mountain- 


KAISERSLAUTERN.         37.  Route.    255 

district  of  the  Westrich.  For  an  hour  the  train  winds  up  the  wooded 
ravine  of  the  Spcyerbach,  and  penetrates  the  variegated  sandstone 
rocks  by  means  of  12  tunnels.  Beyond  Neustadt,  on  a  hill  to  the 
right,  stand  the  red  ruins  of  the  Wolfsburg. 

25  M.  St.  Lambrecht-Qrevenhausen  (* Klein),  two  villages 
founded  by  French  emigrants,  with  extensive  military  and  other 
cloth-factories.  About  ll/4  M.  farther  on,  at  Frankeneck,  a  paper- 
making  village,  the  valley  divides.  The  branch  to  the  left,  through 
which  flows  the  Speyerbach,  is  named  the  Elmeteiner-Thal ;  that 
to  the  right  is  named  the  Frankensteiner-Thal,  and  is  watered  by 
the  Hochspeyerbach.   The  train  ascends  the  latter. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  in  the  well-wooded  Blmstkinejk- 
Thal.  About  4l/2  M.  above  Frankeneck  are  the  ruins  of  Spangeiiberg 
(left)  and  Erfenstein  (right \  refreshments  at  the  adjacent  forester's).  We 
next  pass  the  ruin  of  BreiteAstein  and  reach  (3*/2  M.)  Appenthal  and  (l1/*  M.) 
ElmsUin  (Schrber's  Inn),  whence  the  Eschkopf  (1870  ft.)  may  be  ascended 
in  2  hrs.  (guide  desirable).  Refreshments  may  be  obtained  at  any  of  the 
foresters'  houses. 

Farther  on,  on  a  height  to  the  right,  are  the  ruins  of  Neidenfels. 
30  M.  Weidenthal,  with  two  new  churches.  32  M.  Frankenstein 
(Kolsch;  Haffen),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  that  name.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  valley,  above  the  tunnel,  which  is  1487  yds.  in 
length,  is  another  fine  old  ruined  castle ;  to  the  right  is  the  rock  call- 
ed the  TeufelsUiter  ('devil's  ladder').  In  a  secluded  valley  to  the  right 
lies  the  ruin  of  Diemerstcin,  surrounded  with  pleasure-grounds. 

The  Drachenstein,  commanding  a  varied  and  extensive  view,  may  be 
ascended  from  St.  Lambrecht  (3  hrs.))  Weidenthal  (2  hrs.),  or  Franken- 
stein (2  hrs.).  About  1/2  hr.  below  the  summit  is  a  spring  named  the 
JStefffriedsbrunntn*  The  descent  may  be  made  through  Isenachthal  to 
Dtirkheim  (4  hrs.,  see  p.  249). 

35  M.  Hochspeyer  (876  ft.),  the  highest  station  on  the  line,  is 
the  junction  for  the  Alsenzbahn  to  Miinster  am  Stein  and  Kreuznach 
(see  p.  150). 

41  lfa M.  Kaiserslautern  (*Schu>an ;  Zum Katlsberg ;  Hotel  Krafft), 
one  of  the  chief  towns  in  the  Palatinate,  situated  in  the  hilly  tract 
of  the  Westrich,  with  over  26,000  inhab.,  and  considerable  spinning 
factories,  iron-works,  and  breweries,  was  once  a  residence  of  Emp. 
Frederick  Barbarossa,  who  erected  a  magnificent  palace  here 
in  1153.  The  building  was  destroyed  during  the  Spanish  War  of 
Succession,  and  the  site  is  now  occupied  by  a  house  of  correction. 
His  memory  is  still  revered  here,  as  he  presented  the  town  with  a 
wood,  worth  50,000  m.  annually.  The  Protestant  Church  with  its 
three  towers  owes  its  foundation  to  the  same  monarch,  but  in  its 
present  form  belongs  wholly  to  the  13th  and  14th  centuries;  it  was 
restored  recently.  The  FruchthaUe,  or  corn-hall,  and  the  Provincial 
Museum  are  large  and  handsome  buildings.  A  battle  was  fought  at 
Kaiserslautern  in  1793  between  the  Prussians  and  the  French. 

Diligence  twice  daily  in  i'A  hr.  from  Kaiserslautern  to  (7  M.)  Otter- 
berg,  with  a  Cistercian  abbey  founded  in  1134  and  now  suppressed.  The 
abbey-church,  an  imposing  structure  in  the  transition-style,  was  probably 
completed  in  1225. 


256     Route  37.  LANDSTUHL. 

Between  Kaiserslautern  and  Homburg  the  line  runs  near  the 
'Kaiserstrasse',  a  road  constructed  by  Napoleon,  and  skirts  the 
Landstuhler  Bruch,  an  extensive  moor  at  the  base  of  wooded  hills.  — 
49  M.  Kindsbach. 

51  M.  Landatuhl  (Engel;  Burgard),  a  small  town  with  3400 
inhab.,  was  once  a  seat  of  the  Sickingen  family,  whose  castle,  with 
its  huge  walls,  25  ft.  thick,  lies  in  ruins  above  the  town.  Franz 
von  Sickingen  was  besieged  here  by  the  Electors  of  the  Palatinate 
and  Treves  in  1523,  and  lost  his  life  by  the  falling  of  a  beam.  His 
remains  were  interred  in  a  vault  under  the  church,  but  the  monument 
erected  to  his  memory  was  destroyed  by  the  French.  Another  has 
recently  been  erected,  and  the  paths  about  the  castle  have  been 
repaired.  Keys  at  the  forester's.  The  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum 
was  erected  in  1853.  Pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  to  the  Flcisch- 
hackers  Loch,  the  Kohlenberg  (with  a  belvedere),  and  the  Barenloch. 

From  Landstuhl  to  Kusel,  18  M.,  branch-railway  in  ls/4  hr.  (fares 
1  m.  66  pf.,  1  m).  The  line  intersects  the  Landstuhler  Bruch  (see  above). 
3  M.  Ramttein;  4»/i  M.  Btdntoenden;  7  H.  Niedermokr.  At  (8*/«  M.)  Olan- 
MilnchveiUr  the  attractive  valley  of  the  Qian  is  entered,  and  followed  vis 
Rehweiler,  Eisenbach,  and  Theisbergstegen  to  (16  M.)  Altenglan.  The  line 
then  turns  in  a  sharp  angle  towards  theW.,  and  enters  the  Kuseler  Thai. 
Kuael  (Zum  Maimer  Hofyy  a  busy  little  town  with  cloth  and  other  factories, 
was  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1794,  on  suspicion  of  being  concerned 
in  a  forgery  of  'assignats\  In  the  neighbourhood  are  considerable  syenite 
quarries. 

54i/2  M.  Hauptstuhl;  57  M.  Bruchmuhlbach.  64  M.  Homburg 
(tDiimmler),  a  small  town,  with  a  handsome  Roman  Catholic  Church, 
built  in  1840.  The  'Bergschloss  Homburg'  has  entirely  dis- 
appeared. The  castle  of  Carlsberg,  on  a  hill  >/2  hr.  to  the  N.E., 
was  built  by  Duke  Charles  II.  of  Zweibriicken  in  1780,  and  de- 
stroyed by  the  French  in  1793. 

Fkom  Homburg  to  Saargemund,  30  M.,  railway  in  21/*  brs.  —  4  M. 
Schwarzenacker.  From  (6  M.)  Eindd  a  branch-line  diverges  to  Bierbaeh, 
Lautxkirehen ,  Wilrzbach,  St.  IngUrt,  Scheldt,  and  SaarbrUdken  (19  M.  i 
p.  154). 

7  M.  Zweibriicken  (*ZweibrUcker  Ho/;  P/dtzer  Ho/),  formerly  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Dukes  of  Zweibriicken,  and  known  to  the  literary  world 
as  the  place  where  the  Editione*  BiponUnae  of  classical  authors  were 
published.  It  is  now  a  town  of  10,000  inhab.,  and  contains  the  chief 
court  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate,  which  occupies  the  old  castle.  To  the 
left  of  the  E.  entrance  to  the  town  Is  the  new  prison.  When  Charles  X. 
Ghistavus  of  the  Zweibriicken  family  ascended  the  Swedish  throne,  the 
Duchy  became  subject  to  Sweden,  which  it  continued  to  be  till  the  death 
of  Charles  XII.  in  1719.  The  Alexanderkirche  contains  the  burial-vaults  of 
the  ducal  house.  The  new  Roman  Catholic  Church  is  a  handsome  building 
in  the  Gothic  style.  The  Government  Stud  here  was  originally  founded 
by  the  old  Dukes  of  Zweibriicken.  —  To  Landau,  see  p.  261. 

The  line  then  leads  by  Bierbach,  Blieskastel,  Oersheim-Walsheim,  and 
Reinheim,  to  (30  H.)  Saargemund  (p.  273). 

Beyond  (68  M.)  Bexbach  the  line  enters  a  productive  coal-district 
in  the  Prussian  dominions. 

72  M.  Neunkirchen,  and  thence  to  (85  M.")  Saarbruckon,  see 
p.  154. 


257 

38.    From  Mannheim  to  Speyer,  and  to  Straasburg 
viA  Germersheim  and  Lauterburg. 

82  M.  Railway  in  44»/t  hra.;  fores  10  m.  70,  7  m.  10,  4  m.  60  pf.  (to 
Speyer,  14  M.,  in  1/H/4  hr.  j  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20,  75  pf.).  This  line,  opened  in 
1876,  affords  the  shortest  route  between  Frankfort  on  the  Main  and  Strass- 
burg  (express  train  in  4'/2  hrs.).  —  From  Schtoettingen  (Heidelberg)  to 
Speyer,  see  p.  240. 

From  Ludwigshafen  (Mannheim,  p.  240)  to  (7*/2  M.)  Schiffer- 
stadt,  see  p.  250.  The  line  to  Speyer  diverges  here  to  the  left  from 
the  Landau  line  (R.  36). 

14  M.  Speyer.  —  Omnibus  into  the  town,  30 pf.  —The  principal  station 
(PI.  A,  1),  is  about  */<  M  from  tbe  cathedral,  to  which  the  road  leads  in 
a  straight  direction \  the  Rhenish  station  of  the  Schwetzingen  line  (PI.  E,  3) 
is  only  1/4  If.  from  the  cathedral. 

Hotels.  *Wittel8Bacher  Hof  (PI.  a  •,  C,  4),  Ludwig-Str. ;  'Rheinischer 
Hof  (PI.  b;  B,  3),  Maximilians-Str.,  R.  from  ll/a  m.,  B.  80  pf.,  D,2m.; 
*Pfalz*b.  Hof  (PI.  c;  C,  3),  Maximilians-Str. 

Restaurants  of  Deut$ch,  opposite  the  station,  and  others.  Beer-gardens 
at  the  station   and  on  the  Rhine.    Cafi  Schwe*ingery  Maximilians-Strasse. 

Speyer,  or  Spirts  (325  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Bavarian  Palatinate 
and  the  seat  of  government,  with  15,000  inhab.  (2/5Prot.),  lies  near 
the  left  hank  of  the  Rhine  at  the  influx  of  the  Speyerback.  It  was  the 
Roman  Augusta  Nemctum,  became  an  episcopal  see  in  the  4th  cent. , 
and  was  frequently  the  residence  of  the  German  monarchs.  The 
city  prospered  greatly  under  the  Salic  kings,  who  repeatedly  granted 
privileges  to  the  loyal  inhabitants,  embellished  the  old  palace,  and 
built  the  celebrated  cathedral,  which  was  regarded  as  the  burial- 
chureh  of  the  German  emperors  for  nearly  five  centuries.  As  a  free 
city  of  the  empire  Speyer  enjoyed  a  high  reputation.  Of  the 
numerous  imperial  diets  held  here  the  most  important  was  that 
of  1529 ,  under  Charles  V. ,  after  which  the  princes  and  estates 
who  had  espoused  the  cause  of  the  Reformation  received  the  name 
of  Protestants ,  from  their  protest  against  the  resolution  of  the 
hostile  majority.  The  city  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1689, 
and  has  only  recently  begun  to  prosper  again. 

The  "Cathedral  (PI.  D,  3),  the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is 
open  9-11  a.m.,  and  2-6  p.m. ;  admission  to  the  choir  and  crypt  by 
tickets  only  (35  pf.),  obtained  from  the  sacristan.  The  old  German 
altar-piece  and  the  cartoons  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Catharine  are 
shown  for  a  fee  of  1  m.  and  35  pf.  respectively. 

The  cathedral  was  founded  in  1030  by  Conrad  II.  (d.  1039) 
as  a  burial-place  for  himself  and  his  successors ,  and  continued  by 
Ms  son  Henry  HI.  (d.  1056)  and  his  grandson  Henry  IV.  (d.  1106), 
all  of  whom  found  a  resting-place  within  its  precincts.  The  remains 
of  Henry  IV.,  who  had  been  excommunicated  by  Pope  Gregory  VII., 
were  not  deposited  here  till  Ave  years  after  his  death,  during  which 
period  his  body  remained  unburied  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  Afra,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  cathedral,  which  he  himself  had  erected.  His  son 
Henry  V.  (d.  1125),  the  last  of  the  Salic  imperial  family,  is  also 

Bakdbkkk's  Rhine.    8th  Bdit.  17 


258     Route  38. 


SPEYER. 


From  Mannheim 


interred  here,  as  well  as  Philip  of  Swabia  (d.  1208),  Rudolph  of 
Hapsburg  (d.  1291),  Adolph  of  Nassau  (d,  1298),  and  Albert  I.  of 
Austria  (d.  1308),  by  whose  hand  Adolph  fell  at  G611heim(p.248). 
After  the  murder  of  Albert  I. ,  the  Emp.  Henry  VII.  caused  the 
remains  of  the  rival  monarchs  to  be  deposited  in  the  same  vault. 
Here,  too,  lie  the  remains  of  Gisela,  the  pious  consort  of  Conrad  II., 

Bertha,  queen  of  Henry  IV., 
and  Beatrice ,  wife  of  Bar- 
barossa,  with  her  daughter 
Agnes. 

The  cathedral  was  much 
injured  by  fire  in  1450,  but 
was  soon  restored.  On  31st 
May ,  1689 ,  the  town  and 
the  cathedral  were  ravaged 
with  fire  and  sword  by  the 
hirelings  of  'his  most  Chri- 
stian majesty'  Louis  XIV., 
under  Louvois,  Montclar, 
and  Melao.  The  tombs  of  the 
emperors  were  ransacked, 
%----::ld    >;    *k^:-m  tne  *°wn  was  committed  to 

k  '  wt: :---."- -«^-;3    '  *^e  A*™168  •ttd  completely 

destroyed,  and  other  atro- 
cities were  committed.  The 
desecration  of  the  imperial 
monuments  was  repeated  in 
1693  by  order  of  the  French 
intendant  Hens.  By  a  sin- 
gular coincidence,  on  the 
same  day,  exactly  100  years 
later,  the  spoliation  of  the 
tombs  of  the  French  kings  at 
St.  Denis  was  perpetrated 
under  the  direction  of  one 
Hento,  a  representative  of 
the  people.  The  church  was  subjected  to  devastation  for  the  third 
time  on  10th-20th  Jan.,  1794,  and  was  converted  into  a  magazine. 
It  was  not  till  1822  that  it  was  at  length  restored  to  its  sacred  pur- 
poses. The  interior  was  decorated  by  order  of  Lewis  I. ,  King  of 
Bavaria,  in  1845-53 ;  and  the  re-erection  of  the  W.  facade,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Hiibsch,  took  place  in  1854-58. 

The  church  is  a  simple,  but  vast  and  imposing  Romanesque 
basilica.  Length  147  yds.,  length  of  transept  60  yds. ,  breadth  of 
nave  15  yds.,  height  of  nave  105  ft.,  height  of  W.  towers  240  ft. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  founders  of  the  church  intended  it  to  be 
of  its  present  dimensions,  as  parts  of  the  enclosing  walls  date  from  the 
11th  cent.,  when  the  edifice  was  founded.    The  vaulting  of  the  aisles  and 


-I 


a 


mm 

I.Kaini-Enilf     I 


I 


I 


to  Strassburg.  SPEYER.  38.  Route.     259 

crypt  also .  obvioualy  belongs  to  the  original  structure,  but  it  was  long  a 
matter  of  dispute  whether  the  nave  was  originally  vaulted  or  covered 
with  a  flat  roof.  The  question  has  finally  been  determined  in  favour  of 
its  having  been  vaulted. 

The  Facade  has  three  portals.  Over  the  central  one  is  the 
imperial  double  -  eagle ,  over  the  side  -  entrances  the  lion  of  the 
Palatinate.  The  large  rose  -  window  in  front  has  a  head  of  the 
Saviour  crowned  with  thorns  in  the  centre,  on  a  gold  ground ,  and 
in  the  corners  the  emblems  of  the  four  Evangelists.  The  handsome 
arcade  at  the  top  runs  round  the  whole  building.  (The  visitor  is 
recommended  to  walk  round  this  arcade  and  ascend  the  tower; 
sacristan  75  pf.) 

In  the  Kaiser-Halle,  or  entrance-hall,  are  niches  of  gilded  mosaic, 
in  which  sandstone  statues  of  the  emperors  interred  in  the  Kings1 
Choir,  by  Dietrich  and  Femkorn,  were  placed  in  1858. 

The  four  reliefs  are  by  PiU:  Conrad  laying  the  foundation  of  the 
cathedral;  Rudolph  and  the  priest  with  the  host;  Rudolph  receiving  the 
tidings  of  his  election  to  the  throne ;  the  same  emperor  taking  the  cross 
from  the  altar  in  default  of  a  sceptre  at  his  coronation  at  Aix-la-Chapelle. 
Over  the  principal  inner  portal  is  represented  the  dedication  of  the  church 
to  the  Virgin,  on  the  left  St.  Bernard  and  St.  Stephen,  ©n  the  right  John 
the  Baptist  and  the  painter  Schraudolph. 

The  'Interior  is  adorned  with  *Frbscobs  by  Schraudolph,  32 
in  number,  which  owe  their  origin  to  the  artistic  taste  of  Lewis  I. 
and  Max  II.,  kings  of  Bavaria,  and  are  among  the  finest  specimens 
of  modern  German  art.  They  were  excuted  by  Joh.  Schraudolph 
(b.  1808) ,  assisted  by  C.  Schraudolph  and  others ,  in  1845-53 ; 
decorations  by  Jos.  Schwarzmann. 

Nave.  N.  Wall:  1.  Adam  and  Eve;  2.  Abraham's  promise ;  3.  David's 
vision;  4.  Birth  of  the  Virgin;  5.  Her  betrothal;  6.  Salutation;  7.  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi;  8.  Circumcision;  9.  Mary  finds  Jesus  in  the  Temple;  10. 
Joseph's  death;  11.  Jesus  teaching;  12.  The  risen  Saviour.  8.  Wall:  1. 
Noah's  thank-offering ;  2.  The  burning  bush ;  3.  Prophesying  of  Isaiah ;  4. 
Mary's  sacrifice;  5.  Salutation;  6.  Nativity;  7.  Simeon's  prophecy;  8. 
Flight  to  Egypt ;  9.  Jesus  at  Nazareth ;  10.  Marriage  at  Cana ;  11.  Cruci- 
fixion; 12.  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost. — On  the  Doke  :  the  Lamb,  Abel, 
Abraham,  Melchisedech,  the  Manna,  Isaiah,  Jeremiah,  Ezekiel,  Daniel, 
and  the  Evangelists.  —  S.  Side -Choir:  Stoning  of  Stephen;  above  it, 
Stephen  before  the  council;  (1.)  Consecration  of  the  deacons,  and  Stoning 
of  the  Martyr  Stephen;  on  the  wall  at  the  back,  Prayer  of  the  same  saint. 
—  N.  Sidr-Choir:  Vision  of  St  Bernard;  above  it,  Arrival  of  St.  Bernard 
at  Speyer  (1147);  on  the  right,  his  Prayer  at  the  altar,  and  under  it,  Presenta- 
tion of  the  banner  of  the  Cross ;  on  the  back  part  of  the  wall,  Miraculous 
cure  of  a  boy,  Departure  of  the  saints.  —  Collegiate  Choir:  Mary  and 
John ;  Death  of  Mary ;  her  Interment ,  Assumption ,  Coronation. 

In  the  Kings'  Choir,  on  broad  pedestals,  are  two  large  'Statues : 
right,  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg,  in  Tyrolese  marble,  by  Schwanthaler, 
in  a  sitting  posture ;  left,  the  Emp.  Adolph  of  Nassau  (p.  248),  in 
sandstone,  by  Ohnmacht,  in  a  kneeling  position.  On  the  right  and 
left  of  the  passage  of  the  principal  choir  two  Reliefs,  formerly  in 
the  vaults,  are  built  into  the  walls,  each  containing  likenesses  of 
four  emperors  and  bearing  ancient  inscriptions. 

The  Chapbl  op  St.  Apra  was  built  in  1097-1103,  but  was  after- 
wards altered.  —  The  Baptistery,  in  the  S.  aisle,  dates  from  the. 

17* 


260    Route  38.  GERMERSHEIM. 

12th  century.  Above  it  (entrance  from  the  S.  transept)  is  the  Chapbl 
of  St.  Catharine,  originally  dating  from  the  13th  cent,  but  almost 
entirely  rebuilt  in  1857 ;  it  contains  the  cartoons  for  Schraudolph's 
frescoes  and  an  early-German  altar-piece  (a dm.,  see  p.  257). 

The  Cbypt  beneath  the  choir  and  the  transept,  restored  in 
1857,  is  architecturally  interesting.  It  belongs  in  its  entirety  to 
the  old  building,  consecrated  in  1039,  and  contains  the  ancient 
tombstone  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg,  restored  in  1858. 

The  ancient  Churchyard  (PI.  D,  3)  is  now  a  promenade.  Op- 
posite the  N.E.  corner  of  the  church  is  the  Domnapf,  or  cathedral- 
bowl  ,  a  large  vessel  of  sandstone ,  once  marking  the  boundary  be- 
tween the  episcopal  and  civic  jurisdiction.  Every  new  bishop  was 
obliged ,  after  binding  himself  to  respect  the  liberties  of  the  town, 
to  nil  the  Napf  with  wine ,  which  was  then  drunk  to  his  health  by 
the  townspeople.  The  fragments  of  the  'Mount  of  Olives',  to  the  S. 
of  the  cathedral,  constructed  in  1511 ,  are  the  sole  remains  of  the 
cloisters,  which  were  built  in  1437-44  and  destroyed  at  the  end  of 
the  18th  century.  At  the  back  of  the  cathedral  is  a  bronze  bust  of 
the  astronomer  Schwerd.  —  From  among  the  trees  to  the  E.  of  the 
choir  rises  the  Heidenthurmchen  (Heathens'  Tower;  PI.  E,  3),  the 
substruction  of  which  is  supposed  to  be  of  Roman  origin.  It  prob- 
ably belonged  to  the  town-wall  built  in  1080  by  Bishop  Rudger. 

The  devastations  of  the  French  have  left  few  notable  buildings 
of  antiquity  at  Speyer.  A  mouldering  wall  by  the  Protestant  church 
preserves  the  name  of  the  ancient  Retscher  (PI.  q ;  0,  D,  3),  an  im- 
perial palace  where  the  diets  were  held.  The  fine  old  gate-tower, 
at  the  "W.  end  of  the  Maximilians-Strasse,  is  named  the  Altportel 
(PI.  B,  3). 

The  Museum  (PI.  8;  B,  2),  in  the  Gymnasialgebdude,  contains 
trophies  of  the  war  of  1870-71,  a  cabinet  of  natural  history,  a  few 
pictures,  and  an  important  •Collection  of  antiquities.  Admission 
on  Sun.,  1-3,  gratis;  at  other  times  for  a  fee. 

Boom  I.  Prehistoric,  Alemannian,  and  Franconian  antiquities;  Ro- 
man antiquities  (two  chariot- wheels  of  bronze,  found  at  Haslich);  Etruscan 
antiquities  (tripod  and  golden  ornaments  from  Diirkheim;  painted  vases, 
etc.,  from  Bodenbach).  —  Booh  II.  Extensive  collection  of  'sigillata'  and 
other  vessels  ;  statue  of  Apollo  ;  weight  in  the  form  of  a  Faun's  head  ; 
medallion  with  the  rape  of  Ganymede;  eagle  of  the  Fourth  Legion; 
magnificent  horse-trappings  in  bronze.  —  Boom  III.  Medieeval  objects.  — 
Boom  IV.  Model  of  the  handsome  Protestant  church  designed  in  commem- 
oration of  the  Diet  of  1529 ,  and  sketches  of  the  historically  interesting 
edifices  of  the  Palatinate.  —  Boom  V.  Pottery  and  casts. 

Ground  Flook.  Boman  monuments  in  stone.  Sarcophagus  with  a 
relief  of  Marsyas,  Apollo,  and  Minerva;  another,  with  reliefs  of  Hercules 
carrying  off  Cerberus  and  conquering  the  Nemean  lion.  Altars  with  reliefs, 
one  representing  Diana,  Mercury,  and  Maia. 

From  Speyer  the  railway  proceeds  past  Berghausen ,  Heiligen- 
stein,  and  Lingenfeld  to  (23  M.)  Germersheim  (Elephant;  Salm), 
an  old  town  at  the  confluence  of  the  Queich  (pp.  252,  261)  and  the 
Rhine,  fortified  since  18J5.  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  died  here  in  1291. 


SESENHEIM.  38.  Route.     261 

From  Gbbmebshbim  to  Landau,  13  M.,  railway  in  '/«  hr-  (1  m.  70, 
1  m.  15,  75  pf.).  Stations,  Westheim,  Ltutadt,  Zeiskam,  Hochstadt,  and  Drei- 
hof.    Landau,  see  p.  252.  —  To  Bruchsal,  see  p.  306. 

Farther  on,  the  line  runs  at  a  short  distance  from  the  left  hank 
of  the  Rhine.  —  26  M.  8ondernheim ;  29i/2  M.  Bellheim;  31 «/2  M. 
Rulzheim;  34^2 M.  Rheinzabern,  on  the  Erlcnbach ;  38  M.  Jockgrim. 

39V2  M.  WoVM ,  the  junction  of  the  Carlaruhe  -  Landau  line 
(p.  313).  42*/2  M.  Hagenbach;  44  M.  Ntubutg;  46  M.  Burp.  The 
train  then  crosses  the  Lauter,  which  forms  the  boundary  "between 
the  Bavarian  Palatinate  and  Alsace. 

47 M.  L*nterbnrg (Blume)  was  once  fortified,  and  is  frequently 
mentioned  In  the  annals  of  the  old  wars  between  the  French  and 
Germans.  The  Rathhaus  contains  a  Roman  altar. — 49  M.  Mothern; 
53  M.  Setz,  with  a  Gothic  chapel.   58  M.  Roeschwoog. 

62  M.  Sesenheim  or  Sessenhcim  (Anker),  the  scene  of  Goethe's 
Intimacy  with  Frederica  Brion  (1770-71).  The  church  and  parsonage 
have  since  been  rebuilt.  The  wooded  hill  with  the  arbour  in  which 
Goethe  and  Frederica  used  to  converse  has  been  purchased  by  a 
number  of  the  poet's  admirers,  and  the  arbour  has  been  renewed. 
—  About  1^2  M.  to  the  W.  lies  Sufflenheim  (Krone),  whence  an 
omnibus  plies  several  times  daily  to  (7  M.)  Bischweiler  (p.  254). 

65  M.  Drusenheim;  68  M.  Herlisheim,  on  the  Zorn;  70l/2  M. 
Oambsheim,  with  an  old  chapel ;  74  M.  Wanzenau,  with  Fort  Fran- 
secky;  79  M.  BiscKheim-Sdhiltigheim.  82  M.  Strassburg,  p.  264. 


39.  From  Landau  to  Zweibrftcken.    The  Vosges  of 
the  Palatinate. 

The  picturesque  mountainous  district  to  the  S.  of  the  Queich,  which 
belongs  to  the  Wasgau,  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  may  be  explored 
in  3-8  days.  1st  Day :  Railway  to  Anntceiler,  walk  to  the  Trifels  and  the 
Madenbwg%  and  return  to  Annweiler,  5-6  hrs.  (including  the  Rehberg  1  hr. 
more).  2nd  Day:  Railway  to  Willgarttwiesen ,  walk  to  Schlou  Dahn  and 
the  Wegetburg,  6-6;  thence  to  Weissenburg  4-5  hrs.  Or  we  may  pass  the 
night  in  Schonan,  and  on  the  3rd  Day  continue  our  walk  S.  to  Wdrth. 

The  Railway  from  Landau  to  Zwbi&ruokbn,  completed  in 
1875  (45  M.  In  2.2»/4  hrs. ;  fares  5  m.  80,  3  m.  85,  2  m.  45  pf., 
express  fares  6m.  55,  4  m.  60  pf.),  greatly  facilitates  a  visit  to  the 
S.  Palatinate.  —  Leaving  the  principal  station  at  Landan,  the  train 
stops  again  on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  and  then  ascends  the  valley 
of  the  Queieh,  which  soon  contracts.  The  Queich  is  crossed  several 
times.  —  33/4  M.  Oodnumtein ;  5  M.  Siebeldingen ;  6y4M.  Albers- 
weilcr.  $l/2  M.  Annvxiler,  see  below ;  the  station  lies  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Queich,  the  town  on  the  right.  The  narrow  green  valley 
of  the  Queich,  at  this  point  known  as  the  'Annweiler  Thai',  is  en- 
closed by  wooded  hills,  from  which  the  variegated  sandstone  pro- 
trades  in  picturesque  and  fantastic  forms.  —  12  M.  Rinnthal; 
14*/2  M.  Willgarttwicsen,  with  a  handsome  church  by  Voit  (to  Dahn, 
see  p.  263)  v  17  M.  Hauenstein;  23  M.  Kaltenbach.  whence  there 


262     Route  39.  ANNWEILER.  From  Landau 

is  a  diligence  twice  daily  to  Dahn  (4*/*  M.,  see  p.  263).  —  The 
line  now  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  tributaries  of  the 
Rhine  and  of  the  Nahe.  —  28  M.  Rodalben;  30  M.  BUbermuhle, 
where  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Pirmasenz  (Greiner);  4272  M. 
Tschifflik;  45  M.  Zwtibrucktn,  see  p.  256. 

Annweiler  (590  ft. ;  Volcker,  at  the  station ,  'pens.'  5  m. ; 
Sehwan^  unpretending,  with  beer-garden,  both  these  well  spoken 
of;  Feldwtbtl  Restaurant ,  at  the  station)  is  a  small  and  ancient 
town  of  3000  inhab.,  with  a  Rathhaus  by  Voit,  built  in  1844.  The 
Krappenfels,  BuchholtfeU,  Wetierberg ,  and  other  fine  points  in  the 
neighbourhood,  have  lately  been  made  easily  accessible  by  means 
of  footpaths  and  finger-posts. 

From  the  £.  entrance  of  Annweiler  (in  the  direction  of  Landau) 
a  road,  diverging  to  the  S.  from  the  high  -  road ,  ascends  towards 
the  village  of  Bmdersbach,  and  from  it  a  footpath  ascends  to  the  left 
through  wood,  dividing  into  two  branches,  both  of  which  lead  to  the 
Trifels  in  1  hr.  (descent  V2  hr.).  The  ancient  imperial  fortress  of 
•Trifels  (151 6  ft. ;  Refreshments)  was  founded  as  early  as  the  10th 
cent. ,  but  the  present  scanty  ruins  date  from  about  the  middle  of 
the  12th  century.  Trifels  was  not  unfrequently  occupied  by  the 
German  emperors.  Its  walla  protected  the  unhappy  Henry  IV., 
when  excommunicated  by  Pope  Gregory  VII.  in  1076,  and  deserted 
by  his  nobles.  It  also  served  as  a  prison  for  Adalbert,  Archbishop 
of  Mayence ,  who  was  confined  here  by  Henry  V.,  but  released  by 
the  citizens  of  Mayence.  It  was  here  that  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion  is 
said  to  have  been  confined  for  more  than  a  year  by  the  Emp. 
Henry  VI.,  until  his  liberation  was  effected  by  the  faithful  Blondel. 
After  the  Thirty  Years'  War  the  castle  fell  to  decay,  and  nothing  is 
now  left  but  the  recently  restored  tower  (32  ft.)  and  fragments  of 
the  walls.  In  the  removal  of  part  of  these  in  1880  the  old  castle 
well  was  discovered  in  the  rock,  at  a  depth  of  270  ft;  The  *  View 
resembles  that  from  the  Madenburg  (see  below) ,  but  is  less  exten- 
sive towards  the  E. 

The  hill  occupied  by  the  Trifels  is  the  northernmost  eminence 
of  a  range  1  M.  in  length ,  the  two  other  summits  of  which  bear 
the  ruins  of  Anebot  and  Scharfcriberg ,  the  latter ,  with  its  square 
tower  66  ft.  in  height,  being  usually  known  as  the  Munx.  A  pleas- 
ant path,  provided  with  several  finger-posts,  skirts  the  S.W.  slope 
of  this  range,  passing  these  ruins.  Farther  on  it  descends,  but  after- 
wards again  ascends,  leading  through  fragrant  woods  of  beech  and 
pine.  The  traveller  should  observe  that  he  must  go  round  the 
Wetterberg  to  the  right.  In  l*/s  hr.  we  reach  the  *Kadenburg 
(Maidtnburg,  Marientraut,  locally  Eschbacher  Schloas;  1522  ft.; 
Refmts.),  situated  above  the  village  of  Eschbach  to  the  S.,  the 
grandest  ruin  in  the  Rhenish  Palatinate,  formerly  belonging  to  the 
counts  of  Leiningen ,  afterwards  to  the  bishopric  of  Speyer ,  and 
burned  down  by  the  French  general  Montolar  in  : 


to  Zweibrucken.  DAHN.  39.  Route.   263 

The  *View  from  the  Madenlmrg  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  exten- 
sive in  the  Palatinate,  comprising  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  from  8  trass  burg 
to  the  Melibocus ,  and  the  heights  of  the  Odenwald  and  Black  Forest  in 
the  distance.  The  spire  of  Strassburg,  and  the  towers  of  Carlsrnhe, 
Speyer,  Mannheim ,  and  Worms ,  are  all  visible.  A  peculiar  attraction  is 
the  view  of  the  adjacent  Vosges,  with  their  numerous  volcanic  and  forest- 
clad  peaks,  from  many  of  which  protrude  bald  and  grotesquely  formed 
masses  of  variegated  sandstone. 

The  tower  on  the  *Behberg  (1790  ft.),  1 V2  hr.  to  the  S.  of 
Annweiler,  is  another  beautiful  point  of  view.  The  path  to  it  di- 
verges from  the  high-road  to  the  left  opposite  the  "Frifels'  inn. 
View  of  the  plain  less  extensive  than  from  the  Madenburg,  that  of 
the  mountains  more  imposing.  The  return-route  may  be  made  via 
Trifels. 

About  41/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Rehberg  and  7i/2  M.  from 
Annweiler,  whence  it  is  reached  via  VolkenweiUr,  Oossersweiler, 
and  the  Lindclbrunner  Forsthaus  (Rfmts.,  also  beds),  lies  the 
*Lindelbrunncr  Schloss  (1446  ft.),  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the 
Counts  of  Leiningen.  The  isolated  hill  on  which  it  stands  affords 
an  admirable  survey  of  the  curious  rock-formations  of  the  Wasgau. 
The  Schloss  is  about  6  M.  from  Erlenbach  (see  below),  the  path  to 
which  leads  by  Vorderweidentkal. 

The  following  pleasant  excursion  is  most  easily  accomplished 
from  the  station  Willgdrtswiesen  (p.  261).  About  V2  M.  from  the 
village  we  diverge  from  the  road  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  course 
of  the  stream.  At  (V2  br.)  Hauenstein  we  cross  the  brook  and  pro- 
ceed along  a  sandy  path  on  the  other  side.  In  1/2  hr.  more  a  pine- 
wood  is  reached,  through  which  we  ascend  a  somewhat  steep  incline 
to  (V2hr.)  a  chapel,  beyond  which  w©  descend;  20min.  Erfweiler. 
On  a  wooded  rock,  l'/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  this  village,  rise  the 
ruins  of  *Schloss  Dahn,  also  locally  called  the  'Erfweiler  Schloss'. 
The  steps  and  passages  are  partially  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The 
top  commands  a  striking  view  of  the  imposing  and  grotesque  sand- 
stone rocks  around. 

From  the  small  town  of  Dahn  (Hartmann's  Inn) ,  1  M.  to  the 
W.  of  the  castle,  a  diligence  plies  thrice  daily  to  the  (I1/2  M.)  sta- 
tion Kaltenbach-Hinterweidenthal  (p.  261).  We  do  not  require  to 
pass  through  Dahn,  but  proceed  from  the  Schloss  to  the  S.  to  Brueh- 
\c tiler,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Lauter,  3y2  M.  below  Dahn. 

One  mile  beyond  Bruchweiler  the  Lauterthal  is  quitted  by  a  road 
to  the  right  to  (1  M.)  Rumbach,  traversing  the  picturesque  valley  of 
that  name,  and  (33/4  M.)  Sckonau  (*Lowe,  rustic),  a  village  on  the 
Sauer,  with  iron-works.  From  Rumbaoh  we  follow  the  new  road 
to  Nothweiler  (see  below)  and  take  a  path  to  the  right  at  a  finger- 
post, which  leads  to  the  (1/4  br.)  Wegelburg.  (Or  we  may  reach  the 
Wegelburg  from  Schonau  in  1  hr.)  Finger-posts  at  all  doubtful 
points. 

The  ♦Wegelburg  (1880  ft.),  a  hill  erowned  with  the  ruins  of 
a  castle  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1679,  is  the  finest  point  in  the 


264     Route  40.  STRASSBURG.  Hotels. 

Vosges  of  the  Palatinate.  The  view  embraces  the  whole  of  the  Vosges 
Mts.  and  extends  to  the  Black  Forest  and  the  Odenwald.  At  the 
top  is  a  mountain-indicator.  The  frontier  of  Alsace  runs  a  few 
hundred  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  Wegelburg.  Just  beyond  it,  about 
1/2  M.  from  the  Wegelburg,  is  the  Hohenburg,  the  ancestral  castle 
of  the  mother  of  Franz  von  Sickingen,  into  whose  own  possession  it 
afterwards  passed.  It  is  built  of  skilfully  hewn  square  blocks  of 
stone,  and  commands  a  view  similar  to  that  enjoyed  from  the  Wegel- 
burg. Thence  we  proceed  by  the  Fleckentteiner  Bo f  and  the  FUclccn- 
stcin,  another  rocky  fastness  affording  a  fine  view  of  the  Sauerthal, 
to  the  O/2  to-)  high-road  to  Worth  (p.  253),  which  descends  through 
the  pretty  valley  of  the  Sauer,  and  which  we  reach  a  little  to  the  S. 
of  Hirschthal  (*Fleckenstein  Inn),  a  village  on  the  Bavarian  frontier, 
2  M.  from  Schonau  and  12  M.  from  Worth. 

About  21/?  M,  to  the  N.W.  of  Schonau,  in  the  woods  above  Oberstem- 
bach,  is  the  ancient  castle  of  Wasgensteiny  or  Wasenstein,  mentioned  in  the 
old  German  Walthariuslied,  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  ruins  in  the 
district;  it  is  now  easily  accessible,  and  steps  have  been  taken  to  prevent 
its  farther  decay. 

Those  who  extend  their  walk  to  the  E.  of  the  Wegelburg  de- 
scend to  (40  min.)  Nothweiler  (Inn)  and  then  proceed  by  (3  M.) 
Niederschlettenbach,  with  the  ruined  Gothic  church  of  St.  Anna,  to 
(2  M.)  Erlenbach,  on  a  height  near  which  rises  Schloss  Bdrbelstein. 
High-road  thence  by  Birkenhordt  to  (6  M.)  Bergzabern  (p.  253). 
—  From  Niederschlettenbach ,  a  road  descends  the  valley  of  the 
Lauter  to  (6  M.)  Weiasenburg. 

40.  Strasaburg. 

Arrival.  The  Central  Railway  Station  (PI.  2 ;  B,  3) ,  for  all  trains  .is 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  town.  A  new  station  is  to  be  cOttpleted  in  1882. 
Omnibuses  belonging  to  the  larger  hotels  and  cabs  (with  luggage,  80  pf.) 
are  in  waiting.  The  line  to  Kehl  has  also  a  station  at  the  Metzgerthor 
(comp.  Plan). 

Hotels.  *Ville  dk  Paris  (PI.  a ;  C,  D,  3),  in  the  Broglie,  R.  from  2  m. 
50,  B.  lm.  20 pf.,  table-d'hote  (IS1/*  and  6 o'clock)  3 or  4  m.,  cheaper  in  win- 
ter: *Maison  Rouge  (Pi.  c;  C,4),  Kleber-Platz,  E.  from  2  m.,  L.  40,  A.  60, 
B.  1  m.,  D.  (12.30  and  6)  2  m.  80  or  3  m.  20 pf.;  * EuropIischer  Hof, 
Blau-Wolkengasse  19  (PI.  C,  D,  8);  BdTEL  d'AnglstRrr*  (PI.  b;  B,  4), 
opposite  the  station,  R.,  L.,  £  A.  from  SVaBa.,  B.  1  m.,  D.  (12.30  and  6) 
2>/2  or  4  m.-,  Vignette  (PI.  di  C,  6),  Lange-Str.  67;  Hotel  de  France 
(PI.  e ;  C  3),  Junge  St.  Peters-Platz,  R.  2,  A.  V2,  B.  1  m. ;  Ville  db  Lyon, 
Kinderspielgasse •,  Stadt  Wien  (PI.  f;BC,  3),  at  the  station,  R.  1  m.  60, 
B.  80,  A.  40,  D.  2  m.  40  pf. ;  Hotel  Turk,  near  the  Metzgerthor,  D.  2  m. 

Cafes  (also  restaurants):  Globe y  Broglie,  both  in  the  Broglie;  Misange, 
Meisen-Str. ;  Cafi  de  la  Lanterne,  in  the  Arcades. 

Restaurant*.  *  Valentin,  Alter  Weinmarkt,  nrat-elaSB)  *  Tannenzapfen, 
Kleber-Platz,  D.  27a  m-t  Herbert,  comer  of  the  Brudexhofsgasae  and  the 
Fasanengasse ;  Schrempp,  Fasanengasse;  Dollmatfch,  near  the  Neukirche; 
^Railway  Restaurant.  —  Beer  (Strassburg  beer  highly  esteemed  ever  since 
1446).  Taverne  Alsacienne,  JSstaminet  Pitonh  both  in  the  Gewerbslauben ; 
Eep France,  Kalbsgasse;  Stadt  Paris ,  Bruderhofsgasse ;  Birnbacher  ('Hofbrau- 
haus  Niederlage'),  Laternengasse ;  Stern,  with  rooms  to  let,  in  the  Ger- 
bergraben;  Miinchener  Kindt,  Brandgasse;  Stadt  Milnchen,  KAfergasse;  Lvx- 
hof,  in  the  Broglie.   —    TivoK,   outside  the  Schiltigheimer-Thor ,   on  the 


UlJ^^sS 


r^7® 


r-Thar 


ft  'l»1»k;f\l^ 


65 


Pf. 


*®tmz 


tMmmmM 


1-Thoi 


J5TBJ 


jUteXUcNmue  ..  C.6 
iriserttenHann,.    CJk.t 
udJfarkt   -         E+.l 
\erqrcCben,  TL.    .  Ck.\ 

Vuhffumall. 
*gdriLat£n,n.    JHMk| 


m 


age 
Pf. 
In., 
the 
the 
the 

11^ 
Ya- 

*y> 


to 


cli- 
en- 
ts 

ho- 
uid 
lite 

sat 
id- 
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ith 
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Cabs. 


STRASSBURG. 


40.  Route.     265 


N.E.  side  of  the  town,  beyond  the  'Contades*,  concert-garden  and  summer- 
theatre. 


Cabs.    Tariff  for  1-2  persons. 

Per  Drive: 

Drive  within  the  town,  to  Tivoli, 
the  Citadel,  and  the  Metzger 

Thor  Station 

To  the  bridge  over  the  Rhine 

To  the  Kehl  8tation 

To  Kehl 

By  Time: 

Per  1/4  hr 

„     V*hr 

»     $£hr 

„      1  hr 


During  the 
day. 


eopf. 

60   „ 


60 


20 
60 


In  the 

evening 

(6-10  p.m.) 


—  m. 

i: 


80  pf. 
80  „ 

8: 


At  night 

(10  p.m.  to 

6  a.m.) 


lm. 
4" 


20  pf. 

so : 

20   „ 


40 


For  more  than  2  pers.  the  charges  are  one-fifth  higher.  Luggage 
(above  12  lbs.),  in  the  town  and  to  the  railway-stations,  each  article  20  pf. 

Tramways.  From  the  Sleinthor  to  the  Metzger  thor,  every  7-15  min., 
10  pf. ;  from  the  KUber-Platz  to  the  Weiesenthurmthor,  10  pf. ;  from  the 
Metzgerthor  to  the  (20  min.)  Kehl  Bridge,  every  V*  h'-i  20  pf.  \  from  the 
Steinthor  to  Schiltigheim-Btichheim-HVnheim,  every  Vsbx.,  20 pf.;  from  the 
Weissentkurmthor  to  Kdnigehofen  (steam-power  used  outside  the  town). 

Baths.  Speierbad,  Alter  Weinmarkt;  Kleberbad,  at  the  Ldzay-Marne'- 
sia  Quay  (PI.  E,  2)  ;  Rosenbad,  in  the  Sand-Platz  (PI.  E.  3) ;  at  these,  va- 
pour baths.  River  Baths  at  the  Kehl  bridge,  on  both  banks;  tramway, 
see  above;  in  summer,  trains  thrice  daily. 

Theatre  (PI.  34;  p.  272),  five  times  a  week. 

Military  Music  in  the  Broglie,  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays,  from  4  to 
5,  5  to  6,  or  6  to  7  p.m.,  according  to  the  season. 

Post  Office  (PI.  28),  in  the  Schloss-Platz,   opposite  the  cathedral. 

Telegraph  Office,  Pariser  -  Staden  4  (nearly  opposite  the  central  rail- 
way-station), and  at  the  post-office. 

Pates  de  foie  graa.  L.  Henry \  Miinstergasse  5 ;  A.  Henry,  Orosse  Kirch- 
gasse;  Doyen,  Miinstergasse;  Hummel,  Lange-8tr. ;  Martin,  Blauwolken- 
gasse;  MUller,  Judengasse;  Schneegans  -  Reeb ,  Miinstergasse  27.  Price  4  to 
30  m.     The  geese-livers  occasionally  weigh  2-3  lbs.  each. 

Principal  Attractions :  Cathedral  (ascend  tower) ;  Church  of  8t.  Tho- 
mas (p.  271) ;  Monuments  of  KJeber  (p.  272)  and  Gutenberg  (p.  271),  and 
the  Broglie  (p.  272).  —  The  proffered  services  of  valets  de  place  are  quite 
unnecessary. 

Strassburg,  the  capital  of  Alsace  and  German  Lorraine,  the  seat 
of  the  governor  and  administration  of  that  province,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  15th  Corps  of  the  German  army,  and  the  see  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  bishop,  with  104,500  inhab.  (in  1871,  85,654;  i/2 
Rom.  Cath.) ,  is  situated  on  the  III,  2  M.  from  the  Rhine ,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  small  and  a  large  canal.  As  a  medium 
of  communication  between  Germany,  France,  and  Switzerland, 
Strassburg  has  long  enjoyed  extensive  commercial  relations.  Re- 
cently it  has  also  become  a  manufacturing  place  of  some  importance, 
the  chief  industries  being  brewing,  engine-building,  and  tanning. 

The  town  was  founded  by  the  Romans  and  named  Argentoratum,  and 
in  tiie  middle  ages  became  one  of  the  most  prosperous  and  powerful 
of  the  free  cities  of  the  German  Empire.  On  the  occasion  of  imperial 
processions  the  citizens  enjoyed  the  proud  distinction  of  having  their 
banner  borne  second  only  to  the  imperial  eagle.  Their  love  of  inde- 
pendence and  skill  in  the  arts  of  war  enabled  them  successfully  to  main- 
tain their  position  in  spite  of  the  frequent  attacks  of  the  bishops  and  the 
pobility  of  the  country  (as  at  the  battle  of  Oberhausbergen  in  1262),  and 


266     Route  40.  STRASSBURG.  Cathedral. 

in  1445  they  gained  a  victory  over  60,000  Armagnacs  who  invaded  Alsace 
under  the  Dauphin  of  France.  On  30th  Sept.,  1681,  in  a  time  of  peace, 
Louis  XIV.,  who  had  already  conquered  the  rest  of  Alsace  during  the 
Thirty  Years*  War,  seized  the  city  of  Strassburg,  and  France  was  con- 
firmed in  its  possession  by  the  Peace  of  Byswyck  in  1697.  By  the  Peace  of 
Frankfort,  10th  May,  1871,  the  city  was  restored  to  the  Empire  of  Germany. 

The  University,  founded  in  1621,  was  closed  at  the  time  of  the  French 
Revolution ,  but  was  re-opened  in  1872.  Many  distinguished  men  have 
been  educated  here ,  and  Goethe,  after  a  prolonged  course  of  study  in  the 
society  of  Herder,  Stilling,  and  other  talented  fellow-students,  graduated 
here  as  a  doctor  of  laws  in  1771.  In  1794  the  National  Convention  sup- 
pressed the  university  as  being  a  stronghold  of  the  German  element  in 
Alsace,  and  in  1803  it  was  converted  into  a  French  academy,  which  in 
its  turn  was  closed  in  1870. 

Strassburg  has  always  been  regarded  as  a  place  of  the  utmost  strate- 
gical importance ,  and  in  a  letter  of  Emp.  Maximilian  I.  is  termed  the 
bulwark  of  the  Holy  Roman  Empire ,  and  commended  for  its  old  German 
honesty  and  bravery.  Strassburg  artillery  was  famous  in  the  middle 
ages.  The  Fortifications  were  much  strengthened  by  the  French,  who 
constituted  Strassburg  their  third  great  arsenal.  The  siege  of  1870  began 
on  13th  Aug.,  the  bombardment  on  18th  Aug.  -,  and  after  a  determined 
and  gallant  resistance  the  town  capitulated  on  27th  September.  The 
pentagonal  Citadel  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  on  the  side  next  the  Rhine, 
erected  by  Vauban  in  1682-84,  was  converted  into  a  heap  of  ruins,  while 
the  Steinthor  on  the  N.  and  the  Weissethurmthor  on  the  W.  were  almost  the 
entirely  destroyed.  The  quarters  of  the  town  adjoining  these  gates  suf- 
fered terribly,  but  no  trace  of  the  havoc  now  remains.  The  German 
fortifications  consist  of  an  extensive  girdle  of  fourteen  strong  outworks, 
some  of  them  4-5  M.  from  the  town  (com p.  p.  254  and  p.  277).  The  pre- 
sent ramparts  are  to  be  carried  farther  out  on  the  W.  and  N.  sides.  The 
city  itself  is  rapidly  extending ;  the  old  gates  have  all  been  removed,  and 
the  new  ones  opened. 

The  city ,  in  spite  of  a  foreign  domination  of  nearly  200  years, 
has  maintained  in  many  respects ,  both  in  external  appearance  and 
in  the  language  and  customs  of  its  inhabitants,  the  character  of  a 
German  imperial  city.  As  we  traverse  the  generally  narrow  and 
crooked  streets  we  observe  many  medieval  dwellings  with  Gothic 
gables  or  facades ,  embellished  with  wood-carving ,  which  justify 
the  epithet  of  'most  beautiful  city'  applied  to  Strassburg  in  an  old 
'Volkalied'.    In  the  centre  of  the  city  rises  the  — 

♦Cathedral  (PI.  12;  E,  3),  to  which  the  stranger  naturally 
first  directs  his  steps.  The  history  of  the  building  of  the  pre- 
sent structure  extends  from  the  12th  to  the  15th  century.  The 
ancient  edifice ,  said  to  have  been  originally  founded  in  the  time 
of  Clovis  (6th  cent.),  was  repeatedly  injured  by  fire  during  the 
12th  century.  It  was  accordingly  determined  to  erect  a  new 
church,  the  building  of  which  was  begun  in  1179  under  Bishop 
Conrad  /.,  but  progressed  slowly  and  with  prolonged  interruptions. 
To  this  period,  in  which  the  Romanesque  style  still  flourished, 
belong  the  choir-niches  and  the  transept.  Towards  the  end  of  it, 
however,  Gothic  architecture  had  become  established  in  France, 
and  of  course  exercised  an  influence  on  all  buildings  in  course 
of  construction.  The  N.  facade  of  the  transept  (now  altered)  is 
tolerably  pure  Romanesque,  while  the  S.  facade  presents  pointed 
arches  and  rose-windows  approaching  the  newer  style.   The  rebuild- 


Cathedral. 


STRASSBURG. 


40.  Route.     267 


ing  of  the  nave  was  begun  about  the  middle  of  the  13th  century, 
after  the  completion  of  the  E.  portions  of  the  church.  The  archi- 
tecture here  is  exclusively  Gothic,  with  the  exception  of  some 
traces  of  the  older  style  in  the  pillars.  The  architect  of  the  nave, 
according  to  the  latest  researches,  seems  to  have  been  one  Mcister 
Wehelin.  At  all  events  this  part  of  the  church  was  completed  in 
1275  (or  on  St.  Ursula's  Day,   1277,  if  we  may  believe  an  in- 


scription in  the  cathedral  of  doubtful  origin,  now  removed),  after 
which  the  facade  was  taken  in  hand.  It  is  in  connection  with 
the  latter  that  we  encounter  the  name  of  Erwin  von  Steinbach 
for  the  first  time.  Of  the  origin  and  training  of  this  master 
we  know  nothing,  and  even  the  accuracy  of  his  surname  is  ques- 
tioned. We  can  gather,  however,  from  analogies  of  style  that 
he  had  been  a  diligent  student  of  French  architecture  (such  as  that 
of  the  churches  of  St.  Denis,  and  of  St.  Urbain  at  Troyes).  He  was, 


268     Route  40.  STRASSBTJRG.  Cathedra*. 

however,  by  no  means  a  mere  eervlle  copyist,  but  a  thoughtful  and 
original  master ,  who  pre-eminently  surpassed  his  contemporaries 
in  his  keen  sense  of  symmetry.  He  flourished  about  the  year  1318. 
His  work  includes  not  only  the  facade  up  to  the  termination  of  the 
rose-window,  but  also  the  restoration  and  heightening  of  the  body 
of  the  church  after  the  lire  of  1298 ,  and  in  particular  the  upper 
windows,  the  triforium,  and  the  vaulting.  The  upper  parts  of  the 
facade  and  the  towers  were  completed  after  Erwin's  death  in  ac- 
cordance with  quite  different  designs.  The  office  of  cathedral- 
architect  long  remained  in  Erwin's  family.  At  the  beginning  of  the 
15th  cent,  the  work  was  superintended  by  Vlrich  von  Ensingen  of 
Ulm,  who  constructed  the  platform  between  the  towers.  Johann 
and  Wenzel,  the  two  'Junker  von  Prag\  members  of  a  Prague 
building-society  which  about  this  time  was  dissolved ,  were  the 
architects  of  the  octagonal  story  of  the  tower,  with  its  lofty  windows, 
and  of  the  perforated  staircase-turrets.  Lastly,  the  heightening  of 
the  octagonal  tower  by  another  low  story,  and  the  completion  of 
the  work  in  1439  by  a  singular  spire ,  also  consisting  entirely  of 
open-work,  are  attributed  to  Johannes  Hvtlt%  of  Cologne  (1439).  — 
All  traces  of  the  injury  which  the  cathedral  sustained  during  the 
siege  of  1870  have  now  disappeared.  The  roof  has  been  re-covered 
with  copper.  The  towers  over  the  cross  and  the  apse  were  com- 
pleted in  1879. 

The  *Fa^ade,  by  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  is  justly  the  most  admired 
part  of  the  edifice ,  and  presents  a  singularly  happy  union  of  the 
style  of  N.  France  (interrupting  galleries ,  horizontal  members ,  and 
fine  rose -window,  42  ft.  in  diameter)  with  the  perpendicular 
tendency  peculiar  to  German  cathedrals.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
delicate  tracery,  and  the  entire  building  is  embellished  with  numer- 
ous sculptures  (many  of  them  restored).  Those  of  the  three  *Portals, 
representing  scenes  from  the  history  of  the  Creation  and  Redemption, 
are  among  the  finest  Gothic  works  in  existence.  .  The  niches  of  the 
gallery  of  the  first  story  contain  equestrian  figures  of  Clovis,  Dago- 
bert,  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  (all  dating  from  1291),  and  Louis  XIV. 
(erected  in  1823).  In  1793  several  hundred  statuettes  were  barbar- 
ously torn  down  and  destroyed,  and  the  beautiful  spire  only  escaped 
the  same  fate  from  having  been  provided  with  a  red  republican  cap 
made  of  metal  as  a  protecting  badge. 

The  Romanesque  *8.  Portal  also  merits  examination.  The 
sculptures  with  which  it  is  adorned  are  assigned  by  an  inscription 
of  doubtful  origin  to  Sabina,  the  supposed  daughter  of  Erwin ;  but 
not  only  her  relationship  to  that  master ,  but  her  very  existence 
as  a  sculptress  are  probably  entirely  mythical.  Of  the  reliefs  over 
the  doors  the  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  is  almost  entirely  of  modern 
workmanship,  while  the  Death  of  Mary  has  also  been  freely  restored. 
King  Solomon  between  the  doors  is  also  modern.  The  female  figures 
on  the  right  and  left  are  mediaeval  symbols  of  Christianity  and 


Cathedral.  STRASSBURG.  40.  Route.    269 

Judaism.  The  Statues  of  Erwin  and  Sabina ,  by  Kirstein ,  were 
erected  in  1840. 

On  the  N.  side  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Lawrence  with  recently  re- 
stored sculptures  from  the  martyrdom  of  the  saint ,  built  in  front 
of  the  Romanesque  facade  of  the  transept  in  1495-1505. 

The  *Intbmob  (open  9-11  and  2-6;  tickets  for  crypt  and 
choir,  35  pf.),  consisting  of  a  nave,  14yds.  wide  and  99ft. 
high,  and  aisles,  with  transept  and  a  somewhat  shallow  choir, 
is  121  yds.  in  length  and  45  yds.  in  width.  It  differs  from  that 
of  other  German  cathedrals  in  possessing  greater  width  in  pro- 
portion to  its  height,  and  surpasses  them  in  harmonious  effect.  The 
subdued  light  enters  through  stained -glass  windows  of  the  15th 
cent. ,  some  of  which  are  admirably  executed.  The  Magi  with  the 
Virgin  in  the  N.  aisle  are  modern.  The  pillars  and  columns  are 
slender,  but  of  massive  construction.  The  *Pulpit  of  1485,  richly 
sculptured  in  stone ,  is  by  Hans  Hammerer.  The  Font  in  the  N. 
transept  dates  from  1453.  The  Chapel  of  St.  John,  dating  from  the 
13th  cent. ,  to  which  a  few  steps  descend  to  the  left  of  the  choir, 
contains  the  Monument  of  Bishop  Conrad  of  Lichtenberg  (d.  1299), 
executed  in  Erwin's  studio ,  in  a  (closed)  court  beyond  which  is 
the  Tombstone  of  Erwin,  his  wife  ,  and  one  of  his  grand-children. 
The  Chapel  of  St.  Andrew,  to  the  right  of  the  choir,  dates  from  the 
end  of  the  12th ,  with  additions  made  in  the  following  century. 
The  iErwinspfeiler\  a  pillar  in  the  S.  transept,  is  adorned  with 
Gothic  sculptures. 

The  large  astronomical  *01ock  in  the  S.  transept  was  constructed  in 
1838  -42  by  Schwilgut,  a  elockmaker  of  Strassburg.  It  replaces  a  similar 
clock  by  Dast/podius,  constructed  in  1571,  which  was  in  use  down  to 
1789,  and  which  in  its  turn  formed  a  substitute  for  a  still  older  clock, 
mentioned  as  early  as  the  13th  century.  Only  a  few  parts  of  the  interior 
and  some  of  the  decorative  paintings  of  the  old  clock  were  used  hi 
making  the  present  one.  The  exterior  attracts  spectators  at  all  times, 
especially  at  noon.  On  the  first  gallery  an  angel  strikes  the  quarters 
on  a  bell  in  his  hand;  while  a  genius  at  his  side  reverses  his  sand- 
glass every  hour.  Higher  up.  around  a  skeleton  which  strikes  the  hours, 
are  grouped  figures  representing  boyhood .  youth ,  manhood ,  and  old  age 
(the  four  quarters  of  the  hour).  Under  the  first  gallery  the  symbolic  deity  of 
each  day  steps  out  of  a  niche ,  Apollo  on  Sunday ,  Diana  on  Monday ,  and 
so  on.  In  the  highest  niche,  at  noon,  the  Twelve  Apostles  move  round  a 
figure  of  the  Saviour.  On  the  highest  pinnacle  of  the  side-tower,  which 
contains  the  weights,  is  perched  a  cock  which  flaps  its  wings,  stretches 
its  neck ,  and  crows ,  awakening  the  echoes  of  the  remotest  nooks  of  the 
cathedral.  The  mechanism  also  sets  in  motion  a  complete  planetarium, 
behind  which  is  a  perpetual  calendar.  —  The  most  wonderful  feature  of 
this  piece  of  mechanism  is  that  it  is  calculated  to  regulate  itself  and 
adapt  its  motions  to  the  revolution  of  the  seasons  for  an  almost  unlimited 
number  of  years. 

Opposite  the  clock  is  a  Statue  of  Bishop  Werner,  with  a  model 
of  the1  Cathedral  (beginning  of  the  11th  cent.),  executed  by 
Friedrich  in  1840.  Two  old  Latin  inscriptions  on  the  S.W.  pillar 
at  the  angle  formed  by  the  transept  and  the  nave  commemorate  the 
zeal  and  piety  of  John  Geiler  of  Kaysersberg  (d.  1510;  p.  297),, 


270    Route  40.  STASSBURG.  Cathedral. 

one  of  the  most  profound  scholars  and  undaunted  preachers  of  his 
age.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Catherine,  at  the  £.  end  of  the  S.  aisle, 
was  added  in  1349  and  revaulted  in  1547.  Opposite,  at  the  £. 
end  of  the  N.  aisle,  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Martin,  constructed  in 
1515-20. 

The  choir  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Steinheil  of  Paris ,  an 
Alsatian  by  birth,  and  Steinle  of  Frankfort,  executed  in  1877-80. 
The  value  of  those  by  the  former,  representing  the  Last  Judgment, 
has  been  much  .canvassed. 

The  "Catkbdbal  Towbb.  (p.  268)  rises  from  the  W.  facade  to  a 
vast  and  dizzy  height.  Adjoining  the  right  portal,  round  the 
corner ,  is  a  doer  leading  to  the  dwelling  of  the  custodian  ,  from 
whom  a  ticket  is  procured  (to  the  platform  15  pf.,  up  to  the  turrets 
40  pf. ;  tickets  for  the  not  altogether  safe  ascent  to  the  top,  1  m. 
20  pf.,  can  be  obtained  only  in  the  Rathhaus).  The  visitor  ascends 
a  tolerable  staircase  of  330  steps  to  the  Platform,  216  ft.  above  the 
street,  which  affordB  a  fine  *Vibw  of  the  town  and  the  plain  of  the 
Rhine.  To  the  £.  is  seen  the  Black  Forest  from  Baden  to  the 
Blauen;  W.  and  N.  the  Vosges  Mountains;  S.  the  isolated  Kaiser- 
stuhl  (p.  333),  rising  from  the  plain ;  beyond  it,  in  the  extreme 
distance,  the  Jura  range.  Innumerable  names  are  engraved  on  the 
parapet  of  the  platform  and  on  the  tower  itself.  Among  them  are 
those  of  Ooethe,  Herder,  Lavater,  and  other  celebrated  men,  on  a 
stone  to  the  right  of  the  small  £.  door  of  the  tower  leading:  to  the 
gallery.  Voltaire's  is  also  to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  among 
many  others. 

From  the  platform  to  the  summit  of  the  tower  is  a  height  of  249  ft. ; 
the  entire  height  is  therefore  465  ft.  (one  of  the  highest  buildings  in  Eu- 
rope ;  Cologne  Cathedral  512  ft.,  Rouen  Cathedral  486  ft.,  the  new  Xicolai- 
kirche  at  Hamburg  471  ft..  St.  Martin's  at  Landshut  in  Germany  462  ft., 
St.  Stephen's  at  Vienna  446ft.,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  436ft,  St.  Pauls  at 
London  404  ft.).  The  spire  having  been  injured  by  lightning  in  1883,  it 
is  now  surrounded  with  a  network  of  conductors.  The  still  unfinished 
turrets  at  the  four  corners,  which  seem  to  cling  precariously  to  the  prin- 
cipal structure,  contain  winding  staircases,  leading  to  the  '£o»/«r»%  an 
open  space  immediately  below  the  extreme  summit.  The  massive  cross 
on  the  top  was  bent  by  a  projectile  during  the  siege  of  1870,  but  has  since 
been  restored. 

The  Munster-Platz,  in  front  of  the  W.  facade  of  the  cathedral, 
contains  several  ancient  examples  of  timber  architecture,  the  finest 
of  which  is  the  Kammenell'sche  Haus,  now  being  judiciously  re- 
stored. In  the  Schloss-Platz  (PL  E,  3,  4),  which  lies  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  Munster ,  is  situated  the  Lyceum  (PL  8) ,  or  grammar- 
school,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Seminary. 

The  Episcopal  Palace ,  opposite  the  S.  portal  of  the  Munster, 
built  by  Cardinal  de  Rohan  in  1731-41,  was  purchased  by  the  town 
during  the  first  Revolution,  afterwards  converted  into  an  imperial 
palace,  and  is  now  employed  as  a  University  Building  (PL  36).  In 
the  portico  is  a  colossal  Bust  of  Goethe.  The  building  contains  various 
lecture-rooms  (com p.  p.  272),  an  extensive  collection  of  casts,  somer 


Gutenberg's  Statue.       STRASSBURG.  40.  Route.     271 

what  eramped  from  lack  of  space,  a  new  Library  recently  founded 
to  replace  the  town-library  which  was  destroyed  during  the  siege, 
and  now  containing  500,000  Tolumes,  and  a  valuable  Cabinet  of 
Coins.  On  the  ground-floor  to  the  right  is  the  university  reading- 
room.  A  new  university-building  Is  erecting  outside  the  Fiseherthor. 

The  Maison  de  Notre  Dame,  or  Frauenhaus  (PL  23 ;  entrance, 
Schloss-Plaiz  3),  built  in  1581,  contains  an  ancient  plan  of  the  ca- 
thedral, the  model  of  the  spire,  several  Gothic  sculptures  trans- 
ferred from  the  cathedral,  designs  for  the  tower ,  and  remains  of 
the  old  clock.  The  elegant  winding  •Staircase,  in  the  latest  Gothic 
style,  merits  attention. 

From  the  cathedral  the  traveller  may  next  proceed  to  the  church 
of  St.  Thomas,  crossing  the  Gitbnbbrgs-Platz  (PL  D,  4),  so  called 
from  the  Statue  of  Gutenberg  (PL  4) ,  the  inventor  of  printing, 
who  made  his  first  experiments  at  Strassburg  about  the  year  1436. 
The  four  bas-reliefs  are  emblematical  of  the  blessings  of  the  inven- 
tion in  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe ,  and  comprise  likenesses  of 
many  celebrated  men.  The  Gutenbergs-Platz  is  bounded  on  the  S. 
by  the  Hotel  du  Commerce  (or  Chamber  of  Commerce) ,  formerly 
the  town-hall,  built  in  the  Renaissance  style  by  Daniel  Specklin  in 
1585  on  the  site  of  the  old  palace  ('Pfalz'),  but  completely  remo- 
delled at  the  end  of  last  century.  The  first  floor  contains  the  rooms 
of  the  Alsatian  Club.  —  No.  16  Alter  Fischmarkt,  the  house  where 
Goethe  lived  when  a  student  at  Strassburg  (1770-71),  is  indicated 
by  a  marble  slab. 

The  Protestant  *  Church  of  St.  Thomai  fPl.  22;  D,  5)  is  a 
plain  Gothic  edifice  constructed  in  1273-90  on  the  site  of  an 
older  church ;  the  nave  with  its  double  aisles  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  in  1313-90.  Tickets  of  admission,  40  pf.  each,  obtained 
from  the  sacristan,  Thomas-Platz  5. 

The  choir  contains  a  magnificent  *  Monument  in  marble,  erected  by 
Louis  XV.  to  Marshal  Saxe  (d.  175')),  son  of  Augustus  I.  of  Poland  and 
the  beautiful  Countess  Aurora  v.  Konigsmark.  It  was  executed  by  Pigalle, 
who  completed  it  in  1776  after  twenty  years''  labour.  The  marshal  is  in 
the  act  of  descending  into  the  tomb  opened  for  his  reception  by  Death, 
while  a  female  figure  representing  France  strives  to  detain  him,  and 
Hercules  at  the  side  in  mournful  attitude  leans  upon  his  club*,  on  the 
left  are  the  Austrian  eagle,  the  Dutch  lion,  and  the  English  leopard, 
with  broken  flags  beneath,  commemorating  the  marshal's  victories  over 
these  three  powers  in  the  Flemish  wars.  The  whole  is  an  allegory  in 
the  questionable  taste  of  the  age ,  but  as  a  work  of  art  masterly  and 
original.  The  stone  sarcophagus  of  Bishop  Adeloch  (d.  821),  in  one  of 
the  niches  of  the  choir,  deserves  notice.  The  church  also  contains  busts 
and  monuments  of  celebrated  professors  of  the  University,  and  the  sarco- 
phagus of  a  Count  Ahlefeldt ,  who  died  in  1669  while  attending  Strass- 
burg University. 

The  Temple  Keuf,  or  Keukirohe  (PI.  16;  D,  3),  of  the  13th 
cent.,  was  entirely  burned  down  during  the  siege  of  1870,  and  the 
libraries  of  the  town  and  the  Protestant  Seminary,  which  had  been 
deposited  in  the  choir,  were  also  totally  destroyed.  The  ehurch  has 
been  rebuilt ,  with  the  exception  of  the  tower ,  in  an  imposing 


272    Route  40.  STRASSBURG.  Klcber-Pkttz. 

Romanesque  style,  and  contains  a  flue  organ,  recitals  on  which  are 
frequently  given.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the  Protestant  Gymna- 
sium (PI.  38),  an  institution  of  which  the  Strasshurgers  have  been 
justly  proud  for  more  than  two  centuries. 

The  Broglie  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  a  Platz  to  the  N.W,  of  the  cathedral, 
named  after  a  marshal  of  that  name  who  laid  it  out  in  1742 ,  is 
bounded  on  the  N.E.  by  the  Theatre  (PI.  34),  built  in  1805-21, 
also  burned  down  in  1870,  but  since  restored,  and  re-opened  in 
1873.   A  military  band  often  plays  here  in  the  afternoon  (p.  265). 

Opposite  the  theatre,  on  the  right  (£.),  is  the  Stadthaus  (PI.  32), 
containing  the  extensive  municipal  archives  and  the  temporary 
chambers  of  the  provincial  estates.  Next  to  the  Stadthaus  is  the 
CommandanCs  House,  and  at  the  corner  is  a  bronze  statue  of  the 
prefect  Marquis  de  Lczay-Marnisia  (1810-14),  by  Grass,  erected 
in  1857.  Beyond  this,  lying  a  little  back  from  the  street,  is  the 
former  Priftcture  (PI.  29 ;  D,  E,  2),  now  the  residence  of  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Alsace.  Farther  on,  in  the  St.  Stephansstaden  (PI.  F,  2), 
is  the  Government  Office,  formerly  the  episcopal  seminary ;  it  con- 
tains the  collections  of  the  'Socie'te'  pour  la  Conservation  des  Mon- 
uments Historiques  d' Alsace',  the  stone  monuments  being  preserved 
in  the  cloisters  of  the  adjoining  Stephanskirchc,  the  oldest  church 
in  Strassburg. 

The  Blauwolkengasse ,  issuing  from  the  S.  end  of  the  Broglie, 
runs  in  a  W.  direction  and  joins  the  Stcin-Strasse ,  which  was 
totally  destroyed  during  the  siege  of  1870 ,  but  has  since  been  re- 
built in  a  handsome  style. 

The  Klbbbb-Platz  (PI.  G,  3,  4)  is  adorned  with  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Kleber  (PI.  36),  by  Grass  (d.  1876),  erected  in  1840, 
at  the  foot  of  which  reclines  an  Egyptian  sphynx.  At  the  sides  are 
two  reliefs.  The  inscriptions  give  a  brief  account  of  the  career  of 
the  general,  who  was  a  native  of  Strassburg.  —  The  so-called  Au- 
bette,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Platz,  formerly  contained  the  municipal 
picture-gallery,  which  was  totally  destroyed  by  the  bombardment 
of  1870.  The  building  has  been  tastefully  restored,  the  former 
facade  having  been  retained.  The  upper  floor  is  devoted  to  the 
Conservatoire,  and  includes  a  fine  concert-hall.  —  Adjacent  is  the 
Eiserne- Manns- Platz  (PI.  VI;  C,  4),  deriving  its  name  from  the 
*iron  man*  which  forms  the  cognisance  of  Strassburg. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  111,  on  the  way  to  the  citadel,  is 
situated  the  handsome  Academy  Building  (PI.  1 ;  G,  2) ,  erected  in 
1825 ,  where  the  university-lectures  on  law ,  natural  history ,  and 
mathematics  are  now  delivered.  The  upper  floor  contains  the  ex- 
tensive Museum  of  Natural  History.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  a 
huge  Tobacco  Manufactory,  formerly  carried  on  by  the  French 
government. 

A  pleasant  walk  of  about  U/2  br.  may  be  taken  as  follows :  from  the 
Theatre  Bridge  (PI.  D,  2,  1)  we  walk  to  the  Contades,  or  public  park, 
tnrn  to  the  left  through  the  new  Schiltigheimer  Thor,  and  outside  follow 


BITSCH.  41.  Route.     273 

an  avenue  to  the  right,  which  leads  back  across  two  bridges  and  through 
the  fortifications  to  the  Orangerie,  a  pretty  and  well-kept  public  garden 
within  the  lines.  The  return- walk  leads  ns  past  the  imposing  new  Uni- 
versity. . 

From  Strassbdrg  to  Kehl  (p.  326)  is  also  a  pleasant  walk.  The  road 
leads  through  the  Citadel  (PI.  F,  5)  to  the  (2  M.)  Rhine  (tramway,  see 
p.  265),  and  across  the  bridge-of-boats,  275  yds.  in  length,  to  Kehl.  Beyond 
the  bridge  over  the  'Little'  Rhine,  on  the  Sporeninsel,  to  the  right  of  the 
road,  is  a  monument  erected  by  Napoleon  I.  to  General  Desaix,  who  fell 
at  Marengo  in  1800.    Railway,  see  p.  326. 

Travellers  who  have  half-a-day  to  spare  should  make  an  excursion  to 
Zabern  and  Hoh-Barr  (p.  275).  A  whole  day  may  be  devoted  to  the 
OdiUtnbety  (p.  290). 

41.  From  Strassbnrg  to  Saarbrftcken. 

84  M.  Railway  in  31/3-6  bra.  (fares  10  m.  60,  7  m.  40,  4  m.  90  pf.). 

From  Strassburg  to  Hagenau,  20y2  M.,  see  p.  254.  At  Hagenau 
the  line  diverges  to  the  N.W.  from  that  to  Weissenburg ,  passes 
(23  M.)  Schwcighausen,  and  traverses  part  of  the  forest  of  Hagenau 
(p.  254).  27^2  M.  Merzweiler,  a  busy  little  place  with  iron-works ; 
28  M.  Mieteshehn;  30  M.  Gundershofen.  —  32  M.  Reiehshofen 
(Bellevue,  at  the  station ;  excursion  to  the  battle-Held,  see  p.  254), 
situated  on  the  road  from  Worth  to  Bitsch,  by  which  the  remnants 
of  MacMahon's  army  effected  their  retreat  on  the  evening  of  6th 
Aug.,  1870.  The  line  enters  the  mountains,  and  passes  through 
several  cuttings. 

34  M.  Niederbronn  (Zur  Ooldenen  Kette),  with  3200  inhab.,  in 
the  pretty  valley  of  the  Falkensteiner  Bach,  is  a  popular  summer- 
resort  with  two  saline  springs.  Pleasant  walks  in  the  public 
grounds.  The  Wasenberg ,  which  rises  abruptly  to  the  "W.  of  the 
town ,  commanding  a  fine  view ,  and  easily  ascended  in  1  hr.,  is 
crowned  with  the  ruins  of  the  Wasenburg,  erected  in  the  14th  cen- 
tury. Other  excursions  may  be  taken  to  the  Jagerthal,  the  Bdren- 
thal,  the  ruin  of  Falkenstein,  etc.  —  The  Wasgenstein,  see  p.  264. 

38  M.  Philippsburg-Bdrenthal ;  42  M.  Bannstein. 

48  M.  Bitsch  (Hdtel  de  Metz),  a  small  town  and  fortress  with 
2200  inhab.  t  is  situated  on  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Vosges ,  and 
commanded  by  Fort  Bitsch,  the  fortifications  of  which,  partially 
hewn  In  the  rock,  are  deemed  almost  impregnable.  In  the  Franco- 
German  war  of  1870-71  Bitsch  was  enclosed  by  the  Germans  from 
the  middle  of  August,  1870,  till  7th  March ,  1871,  and  only  capit- 
ulated after  the  preliminary  articles  of  the  peace  had  been  signed. 

53^2  M.  Lemberg,  with  crystal,  faience,  and  tobacco-pipe  manu- 
factories; 56  M.  Enchcnbcrg;  59  M.  Klein-Rederchingen ;  61  M. 
Rohrbach ;  65^2  M.  Bliesbrucken. 

721/2  M.  Saargemftndy  French  Sarreguemines  (Hdtel  de  Paris; 
Goldener  Lowe)  ,  a  small  town  with  6900  inhab. ,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  BUes  and  Saar,  the  latter  of  which  here  forms  the  boundary 
between  German  Lorraine  and  the  Rhenish  Province  of  Prussia, 
possesses  large  manufactories  of  plush,  velvet,  faience,  and  earthen- 

Babdbk£r"s  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  18 


274    Route  42.  Z  A  BERN.  From  Strassburg 

ware,  and  is  the  principal  depot  of  the  papier-mache*  boxes  (chiefly 
snuff-boxes)  made  in  the  environs,  100,000  dozen  of  which  are  ex- 
ported annually.  —  From  Saargemund  to  Saarburg,  see  p.  277 ;  to 
Bomburg,  see  p.  256. 

At  Saargemund  the  line  divides :  that  to  the  N.  runs  by  Han- 
weiltr  (station  for  the  small  baths  of  Rilchingen)  and  KUin-Blitters- 
dorf  to  (84  M.)  Baarbrfcoken  (p.  154);  that  to  the  W.  by  Hund- 
lingen,  Farsehwtiler,  and  Beningen  to  (12472  M.)  Meti  (see 
p.  155). 

42.   From  Strartburg  to  Saarbnrg  (Met*  and  Nancy). 
The  H.  Vosges  Mti. 

43V«  M.  Railway  in  lVr^/*  hrs.  (fares  5  m.  70,  3  m.  80,  2  m.  50  pf.). 
To  Metz,  96  M.,  express  in  3'A  hrs.,  ordinary  trains  in  4'/i-5  hrs.  To  Nancy, 
98  M.,  express  in  S'/s  hrs.,  ordinary  trains  in  6  hrs. 

As  far  as  Zabern  the  scenery  is  uninteresting.  At  (S1^  M.) 
Vendenheim  the  line  to  Weissenburg  diverges  to  the  right  (p.  254). 
The  train  crosses  the  Zom.  10 72  Brumath;  14  M.  Mommenhdm; 
17  M.  Bochfelden;  22  M.  Vettweiler;  241/2  M.  Steinburg. 

From  Stbinbubq  to  Buchsweilek,  8M.,  railway  in  1  hr.  (fares  1  m.  10, 
70,  45  pf.).  —  2>/a  M.  Ealtmatl. 

4'/<  M.  Doasenneim  (Railway  Hotel)  lies  at  the  entrance  of  the 
Zinzelthal,  through  which  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  to  (3%  M.) 
Oberhof  (*Inn),  (l'/a  M.)  Ci-ati/thal,  and  (2»/4  M.)  Butt;  the  valley  contains 
quarries  of  white  sandstone.  Another  picturesque  walk  from  Dossenheim 
is  the  following  (numerous  way-posts) :  ascend  to  the  left  at  the  beginning 
of  the  woods  in  the  Zinzelthal  to  the  Taubetuchlafffelsen,  above  BrnoU- 
heim;  then  cross  the  hill,  via  Heidenttadt  and  Langenthaler  Krcuz,  to  the 
Michaelskapelle,  above  Si.  Johann  (p.  276),  and  to  Zabern  (see  below). 

5  M.  Neuweiler  (Anker,  Wolff,  good  red  wine)  possesses  two  interest- 
ing churches :  the  Protestant  St.  AdelpMkirche,  a  late-Romanesque  edifice  of 
the  12th  cent. ,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  0/  SS.  Peter  and  Paul, 
Romanesque  with  later  additions,  restored  in  1852  (fine  crypt). 

8  M.  Buchsweiler  (Sonne),  a  small  town  with  chemical  works  and 
scanty  remains  of  an  old  chateau,  is  the  capital  Of  the  old  'Hanauer 
Landchen%  which  belonged  to  Hessen- Darmstadt  down  to  the  French 
revolution.  The  Rathhaus  and  the  Gymnasium,  the  latter  established  in 
1612,  possess  handsome  portals,  and  many  of  the  houses  have  Renaissance 
balconies.  An  admirable  view  is  obtained  from  the  Battbera  (1254  ft.), 
a  hill  of  curious  geological  formation,  abounding  in  coal)  its  fossils 
attracted  the  attention  of  Goethe.  The  Bastberg  is  the  centre  of  numer- 
ous local  traditions  and  was  long  believed  to  be  a  favourite  trysting-place 
of  witches  and  sorcerers.  —  From  Buchsweiler  omnibus  twice  daily  to 
($72  X.)  LOtxeistein;  also  on  the  arrival  of  each  train  to  Ingw  tiler  (Lamm). 
The  village  of  Lichtenberg  (Bloch's  Inn),  bl/7  M.  from  Ingweiler,  is  com- 
manded by  a  fort  destroyed  in  1870. 

27M.  Zabern (610 ft.;  *H6tel  Ambruster ;  +Sonne,  D.2y2,  S.  2, 
R.  lt/2-2  m.;  Schweitzer  Oehse;  beer  at  the  station),  also  called  El- 
sass- Zabern  to  distinguish  it  from  Rhein-Zabern  and  Berg-Zabern 
(p.  263),  the  French  Sememe,  the  Tres  Tabernae  of  the  Romans, 
and  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Wasgau,  is  now  a  dull  town  with 
6500  inhab.,  lying  at  the  entrance  of  the  Zaberner  Senke  (p.  276), 
a  narrow  defile  of  the  Vosges,  watered  by  the  Zorn,  and  close  to  the 


to  Saarburg.  ZABERN.  42.  Route      275 

base  of  the  beautifully  wooded  lower  bills.  The  Rhine-Marne  Canal 
also  traverses  the  pass  and  intersects  the  town. 

The  conspicuous  Schloss  of  the  Bishops  of  Strassburg,  erected  in 
its  present  form  in  1779  by  Cardinal  de  Rohan,  from  the  designs 
of  Salins  de  Montfort ,  is  now  used  as  a  barrack.  The  principal 
facade  is  turned  towards  the  garden.  An  Obelisk  in  the  planted 
square  in  front  of  the  Schloss,  erected  in  1666,  records  the  distances 
of  100  different  towns  from  Zabern  in  German  miles. 

Ascending  the  Haupt-Strasse  we  reach  the  Haupikirche,  chiefly 
in  the  late-Gothic  style  of  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  century.  The 
pulpit  dates  from  1497 ;  the  four  Scenes  from  the  Passion,  in  the 
Virgin's  Chapel  at  the  extremity  of  the  left  aisle,  are  ascribed  to 
Hans  "Wohlgemuth.  The  court-gateway,  to  the  N.  of  the  church, 
leads  to  a  Museum,  in  which  are  preserved  Roman,  Gallic,  Celtic, 
and  Franconian  antiquities  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  including 
several  roof -shaped  tombstones  with  Roman  inscriptions  from 
Kempel,  Falberg,  and  Dagsburg. 

Excursions  in  the  N.  Vosgrs.  Zabern  is  a  good  starting-point  for  sev- 
eral of  these.  To  the  W.  of  the  town,  on  the  summit  of  a  lofty,  wooded 
hill,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley 
of  the  Zorn,  rises  the  tower  of  the  ancient  fortress  of  Greiffen«tein  (1257  ft.). 
From  Zabern  we  follow  the  high-road  for  »/4  M.  as  far  as  the  kilometre- 
stone  1,7  (or  along  the  bank  of  the  canal).  We  now  cross  the  Zorn  and 
the  railway,  pass  a  pleasant-looking  country-house,  and  ascend  through  the 
wood  to  the  left.  The  path  (indicated  by  finger-posts)  leads  hence  to  the 
summit  in  about  l/a  hour.  The  ruins  consist  of  two  separate  parts,  chiefly 
dating  from  the  12th  and  13th  centuries,  and  command  a  pleasing  view. 
On  the  slope  to  the  S.W.  of  the  fortress,  and  about  V/t  M.  distant,  is  the 
natural  Grotto  of  St.  Vitus  (1280  ft.),  formerly  a  chapel  and  hermitage  to 
which  pilgrimages  were  made.    Back  to  Zabern  in  %  hr. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Zornthal  rises  the  ruin  of  "Hoh-Barr,  which 
also  occupies  a  wooded  eminence.  Starting  from  Zabern,  we  follow  the 
'Hohbarrer  Strasse",  opposite  the  palace,  and  then  take  a  road  to  the 
right,  which  runs  along  the  8.  bank  of  the  canal,  and  afterwards  turns  to 
the  left,  leading  to  (1  M.)  the  entrance  to  the  wood,  where  there  is  a 
bench.  Continuing  straight  up  the  hill  (25  min.),  or  following  the  road 
to  the  right  (35  min.),  we  reach  the  entrance  to  the  fortress,  which  was 
built  in  the  11th  and  12th  cent.,  enlarged  at  a  later  period,  and  restored 
in  1583.  The  extensive  ruins  almost  appear  to  grow  out  of  the  fantastic 
sandstone  and  conglomerate  rocks.  The  small  Romanesque  chapel,  in  the 
court,  is  perhaps  of  the  11th  century.  Refreshments  may  be  obtained  of 
the  forester.  The  highest  points  of  the  huge  rocks  are  accessible  only  by 
means  of  ladders  and  bridges.  Extensive  view  over  the  Vosges,  and  the 
plain  of  the  Rhine. 

Proceeding  in  the  same  direction,  crossing  the  top  of  the  hill  (finger- 
post), we  reach  (20  min.)  the  ruin  of  Ghroaa-Geroldaeck  (1578  ft.),  with  a 
huge  tower,  only  half  preserved,  and  an  extensive  Rittersaal,  which  is 
also  still  traceable.  —  About  Vs  M.  farther  on  (finger-post)  is  the  unim- 
portant ruin  of  Klein-Geroldteck,  commanding  a  fine  view. 

With  a  visit  to  Hohbarr  and  the  two  castles  of  Geroldseck  a  more  ex- 
tended and .  very  interesting  walk  among  the  hills  may  be  combined.  A 
few  paces  before  regaining  the  last-mentioned  finger-post  we  diverge  by 
a  path  to  the  left  leading  down  the  hill  in  l/<  hr.  to  a  small  open  space 
in  the  wood,  where  notices  on  the  trees  indicate  the  routes  into  the  Zorn- 
thal, to  St.  Gall  to  the  left,  and  straight  on  to  the  forester's  house  of 
(20  min.)  SchQferplatz  (1267  ft.).  Thence  we  follow  the  road  which 
descends  in  nearly  the  same  direction  (S.)  and  which  V*  M-  farther  (way- 

18* 


276     Route  42.  lOTZELBURG.  From  Strassbwy 

-post)  terminates  in  a  road  coining  from  Reinhardsmunster.  By  the  latter 
we  ascend  to  the  right,  and  after  10  min.  reach  another  road  coming 
from  Reinhardsmunster,  which  leads  in  10  min.  to  the  forester's  house  of 
Habtraeker  (1569  ft.).  The  ruin  of  Ochaenstein  (1937  ft.),  which  risen  above 
the  forester's  house  (10  min.),  consists  of  three  towers ,  the  remains  of 
which  look  like  parts  of  the  rocks.  The  summit  of  the  rock  crowned 
by  the  first  castle  has  been  rendered  accessible  by  a  ladder  erected  by 
the  'Vosges  Club',  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Hub  and  Dagsburg. 

The  path,  often  difficult  to  trace  (guide  advisable ;  fee  for  the  whole 
day,  from  Zabern,  37«-4m.)  continues  through  wood,  and  passes  the  hamlets 
of  (40  min.)  An  der  Hardt,  beyond  which  is  a  deep  ravine,  and  Avf  der 
Hub,  the  church  of  which  has  been  conspicuous  for  some  time.  We  now 
descend  rapidly  and  then  ascend  again  by  forest-paths,  in  1  hr.,  to  the 
Dagsburg  (1677  ft.),  French  Dabo,  a  lofty,  isolated  rock,  commanding  an  ex- 
cellent view.  The  castle,  (hewn  in  a  rock  and  inhabited  by  certain  Counts 
of  Leiningen-Dagsperg'  (merian,  1663),  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1675. 
On  its  site  stands  a  chapel,  erected  in  1828,  in  honour  of  Pope  Leo  IX., 
who  was  born  here  (?).  At  the  foot  of  the  castle-hill  lies  (Vh  hr.)  the 
village  of  Dagsburg  (Bour's  Inn). 

The  traveller  is  recommended  to  proceed  from  Dagsburg  to  (8>/«  M.) 
Liitzelburg.  The  road  follows  the  N.E.  slope  of  the  Ballersteinkopf  to 
(3  M.)  ScMferhof  and  (1  M.)  ITeumilM,  where  it  reaches  the  valley  .of  the 
rapid  Zorn,  a  beautiful  dale  enclosed  by  wooded  mountains.  Passing  sev- 
eral mills  we  come  to  (2  M.)  Sparsbrod.  The  road  is  next  reached  near 
the  railway-bridge  (l'/a  H.),  and  then,  l'/a  M.  farther,  the  station  of  Lutxel- 
burg  (see  below). 

Those  who  desire  to  proceed  farther  S.  after  visiting  Hohbarr  and 
Geroldseck,  descend  to  the  left  of  the  finger-post  beyond  the  forester's 
house  of  ochaferplatz  (see  above)  to  (274  M.)  Reinhardsmunster ,  and 
then  follow  the  new  road,  which,  at  a  point  about  7s  M.  beyond  Reinhards- 
munster, divides  into  two  branches,  that  to  the  right  leading  to  (27s  M-) 
Haberacker  (see  above),  that  to  the  left  to  Obersteigen  (and  Engenthal).  We 
follow  the  latter,  and  by  taking  the  footpath  to  the  left  at  the  4th  kilometre- 
stone,  about  37%  M.  from  Reinhardsmunster,  and  passing  the  forester's 
house  Weihermatt,  we  cut  oft*  the  long  windings  which  the  road  describes 
before  reaching  Obersteigen  (I74  hr.  from  Reinhardsmunster).  Wangenburg 
(p.  287)  is  reached  in-s/4  hr.  more,  through  wood.  We  descend  a  steep 
footpath  to  the  road,  turn  to  the  left,  and  cross  a  bridge,  where  there 
are  two  paths,  by  either  of  which  we  may  ascend  to  the  road  at  the  top, 
and  then  keep  to  the  right. 

From  Zabern  to  Pfalzbubg,  674  M.  (omnibus  thrice  daily  in  i»/«  hr., 
back  in  1  hr.),  an  interesting  road  up  the  steep  slopes  of  the  'Pfalzburger 
Steig'.  Pedestrians  turn  to  the  left  and  pass  the  Karlssprung,  a  precipitous 
rock,  above  which  they  regain  the  road.  Pfalzburg  (1034  ft. \  Wolter*)  is  a 
small  town,  situated  in  an  unattractive  lofty  plain,  and  fortified  down  to 
1872.  It  possesses  a  monument  to  Marshal  Mouton,  Comte  Lobau,  one  of 
Napoleon's  officers,  who  was  born  here  in  1770. 

About  21/3  M  N.E.  of  Zabern  lies  the  village  of  Bt.  Johann,  Fr.  St- 
Jean-des-ChouXy  formerly  the  seat  of  a  Benedictine  Abbey,  the  Romanesque 
church  of  which,  re-consecrated  in  1127,  but  partly  disfigured  in  the  18th 
cent,  deserves  notice.  The  St.  Michelskapelle  near  this  commands  a  fine 
view. 

Near  Zabern  the  railway  enters  the  narrow  and  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Zorn,  and  intersects  the  Yosges  range  at  its  narrowest 
point,  the  Zaberner  Senke,  or  low  ground  between  Zabern  and 
Saarburg,  which  separates  the  Central  from  the  Lower  Vosges.  The 
line  runs  parallel  with  the  high-road,  the  brook,  and  the  Rhine- 
Mar  ne-C  anal.  Bridges,  lofty  embankments,  viaducts,  and  tunnels 
follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession. 

33  M.  Lutselburg  (Zur  Eisenbahn;  Storch),  the  only  station  on 


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to  Saarburg.  SAARBURG.  42.  Route.     277 

this  part  of  the  line,  is  a  pleasant  village,  the  first  in  Lorraine.  It 
is  separated  by  the  Zorn  from  a  bold  rock  crowned  with  the  rains  of 
the  Lutzelstein,  or  Liitzelburgcr  Schloss,  a  castle  dating  from  the 
lith  century,  under  which  runs  a  railway-tunnel. 

From  Lutselburg  to  Pfalxburg,  in  ll/«  hr.,  see  above  \  to  Dagtbwg% 
in  3!/2  hrs.,  see  above. 

The  line  soon  quits  the  valley  of  the  Zorn.  A  handsome  bridge 
spans  the  river  with  one  of  its  arches,  and  with  the  other  the  Bhine- 
Marne-Canal,  which  here  turns  to  the  right  side  of  the  valley.  The 
railway  and  the  canal  then  penetrate  the  last  of  the  obstructing  hills 
by  means  of  the  curious  Arzweiler  Tunnel,  2945  yds.  in  length. 

43 y2  M.  Saarburg  (Hdtel  de  VAbondance,  good  cuisine),  on 
the  Saar,  a  small  and  ancient  town  enclosed  by  walls  and  gates, 
which  must  not  be  confounded  with  the  place  of  that  name  near 
Treves,  forms  the  boundary  between  the  two  languages,  French  being 
spoken  in  the  upper,  and  German  in  the  lower  part  of  the  town ; 
but  the  line  of  demarcation  is  less  strongly  defined  than  formerly. 

From  Saarburg  to  Saarqemund,  34  M.,  railway  in  2-2V«  hrs.  (fares 
4  m.  40,  2  m.  90,  1  m.  90  pf.).  The  line  follows  the  course  of  the  Saar, 
which  it  crosses  several  times.  Stations :  Berthelmingen,  10  M.  Fmstingen, 
Nieder-Stinzel,  13 Vi  M.  Wol/skirchen,  Pisdorf,  171/2  M.  Saarwerden;  18  M. 
Saar-Union  (Hdtel  du  fioeuf),  a  place  consisting  of  the  two  small  towns 
of  BocTcenheim  and  Neu-Baarwerden ;  then  Schopperten,  Keskastel,  Saar-Alben, 
Willerwald,  Hambach,  Neutcheuern.  —  34  M.  SaargemUnd,  see  p.  273. 

From  Saarburg  to  Metz,  547s  M.,  railway  in  274-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  10, 
4  m.  70,  3  m. ;  express,  8  m.  10,  5  m.  70  pf.).  The  line  coincides  with 
that  to  Saargemund  as  far  as  (V/t  M.)  Berthelmittgen,  and  then  diverges 
to  the  left,  intersecting  a  hilly  and  wooded  country.  Several  unimportant 
stations:  15  M.  Lauterjingen;  19y2  M.  Nebing;  26Va  M.  MGrchingen;  32  M. 
Brillingen.  At  (41  M.)  Remilly  (p.  155)  the  train  joins  the  line  from  Saar- 
brucken  to  Metz  (p.  156). 

From  Saarburg  to  Nancy,  521/*  M.,  railway  in  lty-i-3  hrs.  Stations: 
Hemingeriy  Rixingen  or  Richicouri,  Deutsch-Avricourt  (the  German  frontier- 
station  and  seat  of  the  custom-house),  Ignep-Awicdurl  (the  French  frontier- 
station),  Embermdntt,  Marainviller,  Lunivitle,  and  Nancy  (p.  160). 

43.  From  Strassburg  to  Bile. 

Comp.  Map;  pp.  284,292. 

89  M.  Railway,  express  in  23/4-3  hrs.,  ordinary  trains  in  5  hrs.  (fares 
11  m.  50,  7  m.  40,  4  m.  »)  pf. ;  express,  13  m.  10,  9  m.  20  pf.).  Travellers 
in  the  opposite  direction  undergo  the  German  custom-house  formalities  at 
Bale. 

The  line  describes  a  wide  eurve  round  the  town,  and  then 
proceeds  towards  the  S.  Near  Konigshofen,  where  the  capitulation 
of  Strassburg  was  signed  in  a  railway -van  in  Sept.,  1870,  the 
junction-line  to  Kehl  (p.  326)  diverges  to  the  left;  that  to  Rothau 
(p.  285)  diverges  to  the  right  a  little  farther  on.  On  the  left  the 
tower  of  the  cathedral  long  remains  visible,  on  the  right  we  observe 
the  new  fortifications  of  Wolfisheim  (Fort  Prince  Bismarck)  and 
Lmgolsheim  (Fort  Crown  Prince  of  Saxony).  Then  on  the  left  the 
outworks  of  (41/2  M.)  lllkirch  (Fort  Werder)  and  of  Orafenstaden 
(Fort  v.  d.  Tann),  the  latter  place  possessing  important  machine- 


278     Route  43.  COLMAR.  From  Strassburg 

factories.  7M.  Geispohheim ;  S^faM.  Fegersheim;  IOY2M.  Limcrs- 
heim;  133/4  M.  Er$tein  (Lowe),  a  town  with  3700  inhabitants. 

The  line  now  runs  nearer  the  mountains.  The  Odilienberg 
(p.  290),  with  its  white  convent,  is  long  a  conspicuous  object.  The 
land  is  fertile  and  well  cultivated,  tobacco  being  one  of  the  principal 
crops.  The  hill-slopes  are  covered  with  vineyards ,  the  best  wine 
being  produced  at  Rappoltsweiler,  Turk  heim,  Thann,  etc. 

151/*  M.  Matzenheim;  18  M.  Ben f eld;  21  y4  M.  Kogenheim; 
23 y2  M.  Ebersheim.  On  a  hill  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the 
Leberthal  rise  the  old  castles  of  Ortenburg  and  Ramstein(seep.  287). 

28  M.  Schlettstadt  (*Adler;  Bock;  Goldnes  Lamm,  the  nearest 
to  the  station,  well  spoken  of),  a  town  with  9,800  inhab.,  once  a 
free  city  of  the  German  Empire,  attained  the  height  of  its  prosperity 
during  the  13- 15th  centuries.  It  was  fortified  by  Vauban  after  its 
capture  by  the  French,  but  was  taken  by  the  Germans  on  25th  Oct. 
1870.  The  church  of  St.  Fides,  founded  in  1094  by  the  Hohen- 
staufen,  but  completed  at  a  later  period,  an  edifice  in  the  Romanes- 
que and  transitional  styles,  with  a  porch,  is  a  memorial  of  the  town's 
former  importance.  So,  likewise,  is  the  cathedral  of  St.  George, 
one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  Gothic  architecture  in  Alsace,  a  cru- 
ciform church  with  an  octagonal  tower,  founded  at  the  beginning  of 
the  13th  cent.,  and  lately  restored.  The  choir  was  begun  in  1415. 
A  new  barrack  has  been  erected  at  the  railway-station.  —  Railway 
to  Markirch,  see  p.  292;  to  JBarr,  see  p.  287. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  halfway  up  the  hill,  we  observe  the 
ruined  castle  of  Kinzheim  (p.  292).  32  M.  St.  PUt;  the  village 
(Krone)  is  about  3  M.  from  the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  the 
ruins  of  the  lofty  Hohen-Konigsburg  (p.  293). 

341/2  M.  Rappoltsweiler,  also  3M.  from  the  station,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  a  tramway,  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 
Above  it  rise  three  castles  (p.  295). 

36J/4M.  Ostheim;  S&M.Bennweier,  to  the  right  of  which  is  the 
opening  of  the  Weissthal  (Kaysersberg,  see  p.  296). 

i,42'/2M.  Colmar  (see  Plan,  p.  277).  —  HoteU.  *Deux  Clefs  (PI. 
5c ;  D,  2),  R.  2-3  m.,  D.  2m.  80  pf. ;  Drei  Konige  (PI.  y ;  D,  3),  R.  1  m.  20, 
D.  2  m.  40  pf. ;  Schwabzes  Lamm,  nearest  the  station. 

Restaurants  and  Cafes.  *Van  Briesen,  Schadelgasse ;  'another  in  the 
Marsfeld,  opposite  the  W.  side  of  the  Monument  of  Marshal  Rapp.  Beer 
at  Molly's,  Judengasse.  —  Pate's  de  foie  gras  at  Scherer's,  Pfaffengasse. 

Colmar,  a  town  with  26,093  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  Upper 
Alsace  and  the  seat  of  the  court  of  appeal  for  Alsace  and  Ger- 
man Lorraine.  It  is  situated  on  the  Lauch,  a  tributary  of  the  111, 
and  the  Logelbach  (p.  299) ,  which  flow  through  the  town ,  and 
is  2l/2  M.  from  the  mountains  and  10  M.  from  the  Rhine,  nearly 
in  a  straight  line  with  Freiburg  in  the  Breisgau.  It  was  declared  a 
free  town  of  the  Empire  by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.  in  1226,  and  be- 
came so  powerful  that  in  1474  its  inhabitants  refused  admittance 
to  Charles  the  Bold ,  who  by  a  treaty  with  Archduke  Sigmund  of 


to  Bdlt.  COLMAR.  43.  Route.    279 

Austria  had  become  master  of  Alsace,  the  Breisgau,  and  the  Sund- 
gau  from  1470  to  1476.  In  the  Thirty  Years'  War  it  was  occupied 
by  the  Swedes,  and  in  1673  by  the  French.  In  1697  it  was  awarded 
to  Louis  XIV.  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck. 

In  the  Rhenish  history  of  art  Colmar  is  a  place  of  some  importance, 
having  been  the  scene  of  the  labours  of  Martin  Schonoaver  (b.  about  1430, 
probably  at  Colmar;  d.  1488  at  Colmar),  a  descendant  of  an  Augsburg  family 
of  artists.  He  was  surnamed  'Hipsch  Martin1  from  his  beautiful  (hUbseh) 
paintings,  a  sobriquet  afterwards  converted  into  'Martin  Sehon1.  He  was 
still  more  eminent  as  an  engraver  than  as  a  painter,  and  was  certainly 
the  greatest  German  artist  of  the  15th  century. 

The  road  from  the  station  leads  direct  to  the  pleasant  grounds 
in  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or  Mar 8 f eld }  in  which  a.* Fountain  Monument 
(PI.  5),  a  statue  in  bronze  on  a  lofty  stone  pedestal,  surrounded  by 
figures  representing  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  by  the  Colmar 
sculptor  F.  A.  Bartholdy,  was  erected  in  1857  to  Admiral  Bruat 
(d.  1855),  a  native  of  Colmar.  The  large  building  to  the  S.  is  the 
Bezirksprasidium  (PI.  2),  or  office  of  the  President  of  the  district 
(formerly  the  Prefecture).  The  Monument  of  Marshal  Rapp  (PI.  7), 
another  native  of  Colmar  (1772-1821) ,  is  also  by  Bartholdy. 

In  striking  contrast  to  this  quite  modern  part  of  the  town  is 
the  inner  town  with  its  narrow,  picturesque  streets,  and  numerous 
handsome  secular  buildings  of  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  (the 
most  important  are  marked  in  the  plan).  In  the  centre  rises  the 
ChurehofSt.  Martm(Pl.ll ;  C,2,3),  a  fine  cruciform  Gothic  building, 
with  marks  of  French  influence ,  begun  in  1237.  The  choir  dates 
from  1350.  Of  the  two  W.  towers,  that  on  the  S.  alone  is  partially 
completed.  The  S.  side-portal,  with  interesting  sculptures,  merits 
examination.  The  sacristy,  adjoining  the  choir  on  the  right,  con- 
tains a  'Madonna  in  an  arbour  of  roses'  by  Martin  Schongauer,  an 
excellent,  though  harsh  work,  the  most  important  production  of 
the  master,  now  partially  painted  over. 

The  buildings  of  the  old  Dominican  Monastery  of  Unterlinden, 
founded  in  1232,  famous  in  the  history  of  the  German  Mysticism 
of  the  13th  and  14th  cent.,  and  suppressed  during  the  French  Revo- 
lution, were  restored  in  1849-58,  and,  together  with  the  early- 
Gothic  church,  have  been  tastefully  converted  into  a  *  Museum 
(PI.  12;  open  on  Sun.  and  Thurs.  2-6,  winter  2-4,  gratis;  on 
other  days,  8-12  and  2-6,  for  a  fee). 

We  first  enter  the  fine  early -Gothic  *Cloistbb8,  which  contain  a 
collection  of  Roman-Gallic  and  mediaeval  stone  monuments,  including  a 
Roman  roof-shaped  tombstone  from  Kempel  (No.  18),  and  a  number  of 
interesting  Roman  tomb-reliefs  from  Horburg.  In  the  centre  is  a  fine 
Monument  to  Schongauer  by  Bartholdy.  Adjoining  the  cloisters  on  the  E. 
is  a  room  containing  plaster  casts. 

The  chief  point  of  interest  in  the  museum  is  the  ^Collection  of  Early 
Gekman  Pictubes,  partly  brought  from  the  Monastery  of  Isenheim  (p.  303), 
and  now  preserved  in  the  choir  of  the  church  to  the  S.  of  the  cloisters. 
The  following  are  the  principal  works:  132-135.  Martin  Schongauer,  Two 
small  altar- wings:  inside,  the  Virgin  adoring  the  Child,  and  St.  Anthony; 
outside,  the  Annunciation ;  at  the  side,  179.  St.  Catharine  of  Alexandria, 
181.  St.  Lawrence,  with  scenes  of  martyrdom  on  the  outside,  dated  1505, 


280     Route  43.  EGJSHEIM.  From  Strcusburg 

from  Isenheim \  115-130.  Sixteen  scenes  from  the  Passion,  formerly  in  the 
Dominican  church  at  Colmar,  executed  in  Schongauer's  studio  but  of 
little  artistic  value;  137-143.  Caspar  Jtenmann,  Scenes  from  the  Passion 
(1462);  161.  Unknown  Matter,  Virgin,  with  the  dead  body  of  Christ,  on  the 
wings  Annunciation  and  Adoration  of  the  Infant  Christ.  The  three  painted 
carved  wooden  'Figures  of  SS.  Anthony,  Jerome,  and  Augustine,  were 
part  of  the  famous  altar  at  Isenheim.  The  paintings  by  Mat/Hat  OrHnemald 
(d.  after  1529),  which  formed  the  wings  of  the  same  altar  (Nos.  163-171) 
are  also  preserved  here :  Inside,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  SS.  Paul  and 
Anthony  in  the  wilderness,  *St.  Sebastian, and  *St.  Anthony;  outside,  Virgin 
and  Child  (Monastery  of  Isenheim  in  the  background),  the  Resurrection 
of  Christ,  and  Christ  on  the  Cross,  surrounded  by  SS.  Magdalene,  Mary. 
John  the  Evangelist,  and  John  the  Baptist.  Another  piece  of  painted 
wood- carving,  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles  (according  to  the  inscription  by 
Des.  Beychel,  1493),  is  aUo  from  Isenheim.  —  The  nave  of  the  church 
contains  a  large  Roman  mosaic  pavement  from  Bergheim,  several  cork- 
models  of  buildings  in  Alsace,  and  a  number  of  modern  paintings.  —  On 
the  upper  floor  of  the  monastery  is  a  collection  of  smaller  antique  objects, 
including  Roman  and  Gallic  gold  and  silver  ornaments  found  at  Drei 
jEhren  (p.  299)  and  Ensisheim  (1873),  a  Natural  Hulory  Collection,  an 
Ethnographical  Collection,  a  Cabinet  of  Engraving*,  and  the  Library. 

Railway  from  Colmar  to  Altbreuach,  see  p.  334.  —  From  Colmab  to 
Winzenheim  (3  M. ;  p.  300),  omnibus  thrice  daily;  to  Kaysersberg  also 
thrice  daily,  comp,  p.  296. 

Beyond  Colmar  we  observe  on  the  right  the  castle  of  Hohtnlctnds- 
berg  (see  p.  300). 

4o  M.  Egiaheim.  Above  the  village  r  which  is  1  M.  from  the 
station,  stands  the  castle  of  Hohen  - Egiaheim,  or  Dreien-  Egithcim, 
with  its  three  towers,  which  have  been  for  some  time  visible  in  the 
distance :  the  Dagsburg,  of  the  12th,  and  the  WakUnburg  and  Wtk- 
mund  of  the  11th  cent.,  known  as  the  l Drei- Exeri,  and  claiming 
(like  the  Dagsburg  near  Zabern,  p.  276)  to  be  the  birthplace  of  Pope 
Leo  IX.,  who  was  a  Count  of  Egisheim  and  Dagsburg.  The  route  from 
the  station  to  the  castle  is  by  the  village  of  Hausern,  whence  a  foot- 
path ascends  rapidly  through  wood.  The  descent  may  be  made  to  the 
S.  by  the  Augustinian  abbey  of  Marbach  (now  a  farm),  founded  in 
1094,  of  which  a  tower ,  part  of  the  church-choir,  and  a  few  Ro- 
manesque columns  of  the  cloisters  are  still  extant  (comp.  p.  300). 

47  M.  Hcrlishcim.  —  50»/j  M.  Bufach  (Bar),  the  Bubeaeum  of 
the  Romans.  The  Church  of  St.  Arbogast,  a  cruciform  vaulted 
basilica,  with  an  octagonal  tower  over  the  centre  of  the  cross,  erect- 
ed at  the  close  of  the  12th  cent.,  partly  in  the  transition,  and  part- 
ly in  the  Gothic  style,  has  lately  been  restored.  The  choir  dates 
from  the  beginning  of  the  14th  century.  Close  to  the  town  is  a 
hill,  which  was  formerly  crowned  by  the  castle  of  henburg,  one  of 
the  oldest  in  Alsace,  frequently  occupied  by  the  Merovingian- 
Franconian  kings ;  an  insignificant  modern  building  stands  on  the 
old  foundations.   The  town  possesses  an  agricultural  school. 

Sulzmatt,  a  small  watering-place  in  a  pretty  side-valley ,  lies  5  M.  to 
the  W.  of  Bufach.  Diligence  twice  daily  in  */«  hour.  The  water  resem- 
bles that  of  Selters,  and  is  much  in  vogue  in  Alsace. 

53i/2  M.  Merxheim.  —  58  M.  Bollweiler,  the  junction  for 
Gebweiler  (see  p.  302).  The  Baumann  Arboricultural  Schools  here 
are  the  oldest  and  most  extensive  in  Alsace. 


toBdle.  MULHAUSEN.  43.  Route.     28 1 

Post-omnibus  thrice  daily  in  1  hr.  from  Bollweiler  to  Baauheim,  a 
small  town  with  8000  inhab.,  5  M.  to  the  E.  It  was  once  the  capital 
of  the  Austrian  possessions  in  Alsace,  and  is  interesting  for  its  specimens 
of  secular  edifices  of  the  15th  and  16th  centuries,  chiefly  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  especially  the  imposing  Rathhaun  with  its  handsome  bartizan  and 
the  Hotel  aur  Krone.  The  former  contains  a  meteoric  stone,  which  fell 
here  in  1492. 

The  Thur  is  now  crossed.  —  61  M.  WitUlsheim ;  65i/2M.  Lutter- 
bach  (junction  for  Wesserling,  p.  304).  Here  the  train  leaves  the 
mountains,  tarns  to  the  E.,  and  reaches  (67  M.)  Dornoch,  a  suburb 
of  Miilhausen,  with  numerous  manufactories.  The  photographs 
of  Hr.  Braun,  whose  studio  is  here,  are  well-known  in  France  and 
Germany. 

69  M.  Mulhausen.  —  Hotels.  *Cent*al  Hotel,  with  good  restau- 
rant; Hotel  Wagner,  R.  1  m.  60  pf. ;  Hotel  djes  Etrangbrs,  to  the 
right  of  the  station.  —  Cafi  Moll.  Beer  at  Hawk's,  opposite  the  vegetable 
market.  —  Cab,  1  m.  60  pf.  per  hour. 

Miilhausen ,  in  the  Sundgau ,  once  a  free  city  of  the  German 
Empire,  and  from  1516  to  1798  allied  with  the  Swiss  Confed- 
eration, is  now  the  most  important  manufacturing  town  in  Alsace 
(cotton  goods,  chemfcals,  paper,  iron-wares,  machinery,  etc.),  and 
is  advantageously  situated  on  the  Rhine- Rhone- Canal.  It  is  the 
seat  of  government  for  the  district,  with  a  provincial  tribunal  and 
68,283  inhabitants. 

Leaving  the  station,  which  lies  on  the  S.  side  of  the  -town,  and 
proceeding  a  few  paces  towards  the  right ,  we  cross  the  canal ,  and 
enter  the  Nbw  Quarter  of  the  town,  with  its  large  but  unat- 
tractive houses,  many  of  which  have  wide,  arched  porticoes  on  the 
ground-floor,  in  the  style  of  the  latest  Parisian  edifices.  In  the 
Borsen-Platz  is  situated  the  large  building  of  the  lSocUt£  ln- 
dustrielW,  an  association  formed  in  1825  for  the  promotion  of 
industrial  and  scientific  interests  of  all  kinds.  It  contains  various 
collections  and  a  library. 

Proceeding  straight  on,  we  enter  the  Baseler-Thor-Strasse,  the 
main  street  of  the  Old  Town.  A  street,  diverging  to  the  left,  leads 
to  the  Rathhaus-Platz  ,  in  which  is  the  Rathhaus,  erected  in  1552 
and  restored  in  1846,  a  solitary  witness  of  the  ancient  importance 
of  Miilhausen  as  a  free  imperial  city.  The  whole  of  the  facade  was 
painted  by  Christian  Vacjcsterffer  of  Colmar  in  a  style  much  admired 
in  Switzerland,  and  transplanted  thence  to  Alsace.  Opposite  the 
Kathhau8  is  the  modern-Gothic  Protestant  Church,  with  a  very 
showy  facade. 

The  Arbeiterstadt,  or  artizans'  colony,  founded  in  1853  by  the 
tSocie*te*  des  Cite*s  Ouvrieres' ,  a  society  established  by  the  Mayor 
Dollfuss  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  working  classes,  lies  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  old  town  (follow  the  main  road  and  then  turn  to  the 
left).  It  now  consists  of  about  1000  houses  of  one  or  two  stories, 
each  accommodating  one  or  two  families,  and  provided  with  a  small 
garden.     There  are  also  large  bath  and  washing-houses,  an  infant- 


282    Route  43.  BELFORT. 

school,  etc.,  connected  with  the  colony.  The  houses  are  sold  to  arti- 
zans  almost  at  cost  price  (2500-3000  m.),  payable  by  instalments. 
The  value  of  the  houses  already  built  amounts  to  about  2l/2  million 
marks  (125,000 IJ),  of  which  sum  upwards  of  three-fourths  have 
been  paid  off.  —  Near  the  station  rises  the  Rebberg ,  with  several 
pretty  villas,  and  higher  up  is  the  Tannenwald,  which  commands 
a  beautiful  view. 

From  Mulhausen  to  Mullheim  in  Baden,  13  M.,  railway  in  V*  hr. 
(fares  2  m.  10,  1  m.  50  pf.,  lm.).  —  8  M.  Napoleonsinsel,  on  the  Rhine- 
Rhone-Canal  ,  with  large  paper-mills.  The  train  then  traverses  the  ex- 
tensive Hartwald.  9  M.  Banzenheim,  2f/i  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  lies  Ott- 
marsheim,  with  a  fine  Romanesque  octagonal  chapel,  consecrated  in  the 
middle  of  the  11th  cent.,  and  belonging  to  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey. 
It  is  built  on  the  model  of  the  Carlovingian  cathedral  at  Aix-la-Chapelle. 
The  Rhine  is  then  crossed.  12  M.  Neuenburg,  a  great  part  of  which  was 
washed  away  by  the  Rhine  a  few  years  ago.    14  M.  Mullheim,  see  p.  335. 

From  Mulhausen  to  Belfort  ,  30  M. ,  railway  in  l7<-2  hrs.  (fares 
4  m.  20,  3  m.,  2  m.  10  pf.).  The  railway  ascends  the  smiling  valley  of 
the  III.  There  were  formerly  about  20  castles  in  the  district  traversed 
by  thiamine,  which,  with  numerous  villages,  have  all  been  destroyed  by 
the  ravages  of  war.  At  many  points  traces  of  Roman  fortifications  and 
roads  are  noticeable.  —  3!/4  M.  ZUliiheim;  6  M.  Illfurt. 

1072  M.  Altkirch  (Ooldener  Kopf;  Schwarter  Mr;  Cafi  Hifelin), 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  is  the  capital  of  the  Sundgau 
in  the  narrower  sense  of  the  name.  A  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  new  Romanesque  church.  Pottery  is  extensively  manu- 
factured here.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  Sundgau  belonged  to  the  Counts 
of  Pfirt,  whose  castle,  now  in  ruins,  is  in  the  Jura  Mts.,  above  the  little 
town  of  Pfirt  (*Stadt  New  York),  14  M.  to  the  8.  of  Altkirch.  An  omnibus 
runs  from  Altkirch  to  Pfirt  thrice  daily  $  and  the  pedestrian  may  reach 
it  by  a  picturesque  route  via  JHirtingtn.  From  Pfirt  we  may  proceed  to 
Bale,  or  by  the  iron-foundry  of  Liilzel,  formerly  an  abbey,  to  Deltberg  or 
DeUmont,  on  the  Jura  railway. 

18  M.  Dammerkirch,  Fr.  Dannemarie.  The  train  then  crosses  an  im- 
posing viaduct  with  35  arches,  and  reaches  (21  M.)  AU-Mttntterol ,  Fr. 
Montreux-  Vieux,  the  German  frontier-station.  27  H.  Chlvremont,  Ger. 
Qeisenberg^  the  French  frontier-station.  —  31  M.  Belfort  or  Bifort  (H6tel  de 
V Ancienne  Poste ,  R.  3  fr.),  a  town  and  fortress  on  the  Savoureust,  built 
by  Vauban  under  Louis  XIV.,  and  memorable  for  its  long  siege  by  the 
Germans  from  3rd  Nov.,  1870,  to  16th  Feb.,  1871. 

As  far  as(721/2M.)i2ix/idmthe  train  continues  to  run  towards  the 
E. ;  it  then  turns  to  the  S.E.  The  soil  is  gravelly  and  sterile. 
73  M.  Habsheim;  79  M.  Sierentz;  81  M.  Bartcnheim.  86  M. 
8U  Ludwig  (or  St.  Louis') ,  after  which  the  line  enters  the  Swiss 
dominions. 

About  3>/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  St.  Ludwig  is  the  famous  piscicultural 
establishment  of  HUningen,  which  since  1852  has  been  of  great  service  in 
replenishing  the  waters  of  Alsace  with  fish.  Thousands  of  young  salmon, 
bred  in  its  tanks,  are  placed  every  year  in  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle, 
and  immense  quantities  of  trout  and  other  fish  in  the  smaller  streams  of 
Upper  Alsace.    The  small   town   of  Huningen  (see  below)  is  3  M.  distant. 

From  St.  Ludwig  to  Leopoldshohe  (in  Baden),  61/*  M.,  railway  in  20- 
25  min.  (fares  70,  50,  40  pf.).  —  4  M.  HUningen  (Hotel  de  Paris),  formerly 
a  fortress,  constructed  by  Vauban  under  Louis  XIV.  (1679),  and  dismantled 
by  the  Austrians  in  1815.  —  5l/2  M.  Leopoldshtfhe,  see  p.  335. 

89  M.  Bfcle,  see  p.  335. 


283 
44.  The  Central  and  Upper  Vosges  Mts. 

The  Vosges  (Lat.  Mons  Vosegus,  Ger.  Vogesen,  or  more  correctly 
Waaigen  or  Wasgenwald)  form  the  western  boundary  of  the  basin 
of  the  upper  Rhine,  and  run  parallel  with  the  Black  Forest,  with 
which  they  for  the  most  part  coincide  in  orologieal  and  geological 
characteristics.  They  are  generally  divided  into  the  Upper,  Central, 
and  Lower  Vosges.  The  Ufpbr,  or  High  Vosges  Mts.  are  separated 
from  the  Jura  on  the  S.  by  the  pass  of  Belfort,  and  on  the  N.  extend 
to  the  Leberthal  (p.  292).  They  are  almost  entirely  of  granitic 
formation ,  the  granite  being  adjoined  towards  the  N.  by  the  red 
sandstone  which  prevails  in  the  Central  and  Lower  Vosges.  The 
highest  summits  are  the  Qebweiler  Belchen  (4677  ft. ;  p.  304),  the 
Boheneck  (4480  ft.;  p.  301),  the  Bheinkopf  (4324  ft. ;  p.  302), 
and  the  Kleine  Belchen  or  Kahle  Wasen  (4180  ft. ;  p.  302).  The 
Central  Vosges  Mts.  stretch  from  the  Leberthal  to  the  Zaberner 
Senke  (p.  276),  the  highest  points  being  the  Hochfeld  (3590  ft. ; 
p.  291),  the  Donon  (3313  ft. ;  p.  285),  the  Climont  (3196  ft.),  and 
the  Odilienberg  (2470  ft.  and  2687  ft. ;  p.  290),  a  spur  running 
out  towards  the  W.  The  Lower,  or  Northern  Vosges  run  north- 
wards from  the  Zaberner  Senke  as  far  as  the  Queich  (p.  252) ;  and 
they  are  sometimes  considered  to  include  the  Haardt  Mts.  and  the 
Donnersberg,  and  thus  to  extend  to  the  Nahe. 

Up  to  a  height  of  about  3600  ft.  these  mountains  are  covered 
with  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  pine.  The  highest  sum- 
mits, on  which  only  grass  grows,  afford  exoellent  pasturage,  and 
are  extensively  used  for  cattle  -  rearing  and  dairy -farming.  The 
slopes  are  thickly  strewn  with  ancient  castles,  and  on  the  side 
towards  Alsace  are  covered  with  vineyards,  yielding  wine  of  good 
quality  (comp.  p.  278).  In  the  densely -populated  valleys,  iron- 
working,  ore-smelting,  weaving,  and  other  industries  are  actively 
prosecuted.  As  in  the  Black  Forest,  there  are  a  few  mineral  springs 
here;  but  the  Vosges  Mts.  can  scarcely  compete  with  the  sister 
range  in  point  of  scenery,  as  they  lack  the  abundant  brooks  which 
impart  such  a  charm  to  the  valleys  of  the  latter.  There  are,  how- 
ever, several  beautiful  points,  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  particularly 
the  following :  the  vicinity  of  Zabem,  the  Odilienberg,  the  Hohen- 
Kbnigsburg,  the  castles  of  RappoUsweiler,  the  Munsterthal  with  the 
Schlucht,  and  the  St.  Amarinthal.  There  are  good  Inns  (R.  l-l1^111-? 
B.  80  pf.,  D.  incl.  wine  2-2i/2  m.,  S.  incl.  wine  lVa-2  m.)  at  the 
points  most  frequently  visited. 

The  efforts  of  the  'Vosges  Club",  instituted  in  1872,  are  directed 
towards  facilitating  a  tour  among  these  mountains  by  the  construction  of 
paths,  the  erection  of  finger-posts,  etc.  The  best  map  of  the  district  is 
that  of  the  German  Ordnance  Survey,  on  a  scale  of  1 :  80,000  (86  sheets 
at  60  pf.  each). 

I.  The  Central  Vosges  Mts. 
The  separate  excursions  from  Strassburg  described  in  this  Route  may 
easily  be  combined  as  follows  so  as  to  form  an  uninterrupted  tour  through 


284    Route  44,  MOLSHEIM.  The  Central 

this  interesting  district,  the  N.  part  of  which  is  described  at  p.  274,  and  the 
S.  part  in  Route  b.  (p.  286).  1st  day.  From  Strassburg  by  railway  to  Wasseln- 
heim;  walk  in  3  (or  drive  in  2)  hrs.  to  Wangenburg  (or  from  Zabern  over 
the  Hohbarr  to  Wangenburg  in  4  hrs.,  comp.  p.  274);  thence  by  the  (IVi 
hr.)  Schnetberg  and   Nideck  to   (27*  hrs)   Niederhaslaeh,  7-8  hrs.    in   all. 

—  2nd  day.  On  foot  to  Schloss  Girbaden  3  hrs. ,  Odilienberg  21/*  hrs., 
Mennelstein  and  back  l1/*  hr.,  in  all  7  hrs.  —  3rd  day.  To  Hohwald  2  hrs., 
to  WeiUr  by  the  Pelage  3  hrs.,  WciUrthal  l1/*  hr.  (railway-station,  see 
p.  292).  The  traveller  desirous  of  proceeding  to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg 
(p.  294)  towards  the  S.  will  find  good  quarters  for  the  night  at  Weiler. 

a.  Prom  Strassburg  to  Bothau  by  Molsheim.  —  Hideek. 

29  M.  Railway  in  l»/4-2l/4  hrs. ;  fares  3  m.  80,  2  m.  50,  1  m.  60  pf. 

Strassburg,  see  p.  264.  —  4M.  Lingolsheim;  5M.  Holiheim; 
71/2  M.  Enzheim;  9  M.  Duppigheim;  10  M.  Dutllenheim;  11  M. 
Dachstein. 

13  M.  Molsheim  (Goldner  Pflug;  Zwei  Schlusscl),  a  small  town 
on  the  Breusch ,  at  the  foot  of  the  Vosges .  a  fortified  place  in  the 
middle  ages.  In  the  handsome  'Fleischhalle'  here  the  forms  of  the 
Renaissance  are  combined  with  the  articulation  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. The  church  (formerly  the  property  of  the  Jesuits)  is  partly 
Gothie  and  partly  in  the  Renaissance  style.  —  Molsheim  is  the 
junction  for  the  Zabern  and  Schlettstadt  line  (p.  286). 

The  Rothau  line  ascends  the  pleasant  green  valley  of  the 
Breusch,  which  is  enclosed  by  -wooded  heights  and  rocks  of  red 
porphyry.    The  stream  descends  from  the  Winberg  or  Olimont. 

15  M.  Mntiig  (Zur  Post),  a  small  town  of  3600  inhab.,  possesses 
a  manufactory  of  weapons,  once  more  important  than  it  is  now.  17  M. 
Qressweiler,  with  a  modern  church.  To  Schloss  Girbaden,  see  p.  288. 

21 M.  Urmatt  (Wahlmann,  at  the  station,  well  spoken  of;  Ghasse 
Force'e,  in  the  village),  is  the  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  Has- 
lachthal  and  the  Nideck  (see  p.  285). 

23  M.  Lutztlhausen  (Zwei  Schlussel),  a  large  village,  whence  a 
pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  via  the  Grande  Oote  and  the  NoU 
to  the  Albreschweiler  Thai,  or  valley  of  the  Rothe  Soar  (8  hrs.). 

—  From  (241/a  M.)  Witch  (Goldene  Glocke),  a  Roman  road  leads 
to  the  Donon  (see  below).   25^2  M.  Htrtbach, 

27  M.  Schirmeck -Vorbruck  (1084  ft.;  *R6tel  de  France,  in 
Vorbruck;  * Croix  <F0r,  in  Schirmeck),  two  busy  little  places  with 
2100  inhab.,  situated  at  the  point  where  the  valley  of  the  Breusch 
(with  the  road  to  St.  Die*)  is  joined  by  the  valley  of  Grandfontaine 
(through  which  a  road  leads  to  Raon-1'Etape).  The  two  villages 
are  separated  by  the  Breusch.  Vorbruck,  Fr.  La  Broque,  with  the 
railway-station,  is  on  the  left  bank ;  Schirmeck  lies  on  the  right 
bank  and  is  commanded  by  the  Schlossbcrg,  on  which  are  a  ruined 
castle  of  the  Bishops-  of  Strassburg  and  a  modern  statue  of  the 
Virgin  (view).  The  environs  afford  numerous  pleasant  excursions, 
which  may  be  easily  made  with  the  aid  of  Heller's  Map  (1 :  40,000; 
price  1  m.  60  pf.).    Ruins  of  Salm  and  Kattcnstein,  see  below. 


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Vosges.  ROTHAU.  44.  Route.    285 

From  Schirmeck  to  thb  Donon,  in  2V*<3  hrs.  —  The  above-mentioned 
road  through,  the  valley  of  Qrandfontaine  (Grand  Cerf)  reaches  the  PXate- 
forme  du  Donon  (Inn)  at  a  point  about  bxji  M.  from  Schirmeck.  The  top, 
which  is  marked  by  a  pyramid  of  stones,  is  reached  thence  in  50  min. 
more.  Pedestrians  should  follow  the  new  path  constructed  by  the  Vosges 
Club,  which  diverges  to  the  right  at  (2  M.)  Wackenbaeh.  and  is  both  shorter 
and  more  picturesque  than  the  road.  The  Donon  (3313  ft.),  the  second- 
highest  summit  of  the  Central  Vosges,  affords  an  extensive  survey  of 
the  surrounding  mountains ,  of  Alsace  towards  the  W. ,  and  of  the  hills 
and  plain  of  Lorraine  on  the  E.  Numerous  remains  of  Roman  buildings 
were  found  here.  There  is  a  refuge-hut  about  30  yds.  below  the  summit, 
amid  the  rocks  on  the  side  next  the  Kleine  Donon. 

29  M.  Rothau  (*Deux  Clefs),  a  pleasant-looking  and  busy  village, 
with  1400  inhabitants.  The  ruined  castle  of  Salm,  4i/2  M.  to  the 
W.,  commands  a  view  of  the  Donon  and  the  Mutziger  Thai;  it  was 
the  seat  of  the  Princes  of  S aim,  to  whom  the  whole  district  belonged. 
About  V2  M«  from  the  castle  is  the  farm  of  Schiercck,  The  Katzen- 
stein,  or  Chatte  Pendue,  2  M.  farther,  affords  an  admirable  view  of 
the  Hochfeld,  the  valley  of  the  Breusch,  and  the  valley  of  the 
Rhine.  A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  taken  from  Rothau  to  (3  M.) 
Natzweilcr  and  (8/4  M.)  the  ^Cascade  de  la  Serva,  which  lies  in  the 
midst  of  dark  pine-forests  (often  visited  from  Hohwald,  p.  291 ; 
5M.). 

In  the  valley  of  the  Breusch,  2'/a  M.  higher  up,  on  the  road  to  St.  Die', 
lies  Urbach,  Fr.  Fouday  (Poste) ,  belonging ,  like  Rothau  and  five  other 
villages,  to  the  ancient  lordship  of  Steinthal,  Fr.  Ban  de  la  Roche,  which 
has  been  a  desolate  and  sparsely-peopled  district  since  the  time  of  the 
Thirty  Years'  War.  The  places  named  owe  their  prosperity  and  com- 
parative populousness  to  the  praiseworthy  philanthropic  exertions  of 
Johann  Friedrich  Oberlin  (b.  at  Strassburg  1740 ,  d.  1826) ,  who  is  buried 
in  the  churchyard  of  Urbach.  —  The  saddle  of  the  Hochfeld,  at  a  point 
near  a  finger-post  showing  the  road  to  Hohwald  (comp.  p.  291),  may  be 
reached  from  Urbach  in  about  3  hrs.,  via  Waldersbach ,  where  Oberlin 
was  a  Protestant  pastor,  and  Belmont.  —  Fkom  Urbach  to  Wkilke  in  the 
Weilerthal  (p.  292) ,  via  St.  Blaise,  Ranrupt,  Bieige,  and  Meisengott,  is  a 
walk  of  about  4  hrs. 


Haslachthal.  By  proceeding  to  the  N.,  over  the  hill,  from 
Urmatt  (p.  284)  we  soon  reach  (1  M.J  — 

Hieder-Hailaeh  (Krone;  Linde;  *Apfel),  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
convent.  The  large  Gothic  church  of  St.  Florian  possesses  beautiful 
old  stained-glass  windows,  and  fine  Gothic  sculptures  on  the  W. 
portal.  The  body  of  the  church  and  the  tower  date  from  the  14th 
cent. ;  the  *Choir  was  begun  in  1274,  and  rebuilt  in  1290  after  its 
destruction  by  lire.  A  side-chapel  to  the  left  contains  the  tombstone 
of  a  son  of  Meister  Erwin  ('filii  Erwini  magistrf;  d.  1330),  the 
builder  of  the  choir. 

The  road  continues  to  ascend  the  Haslach ,  and  at  the  end  of 
(3/4  M.)  Oberhaslach  (Beer  at  Fuchsloch's)  it  divides.  We  follow 
the  branch  to  the  right,  leading  through  a  beautiful  and  gradually 
contracting  dale  to  the  (2*/2  M0  flfth  saw-mill  from  Oberhaslach. 
A  few  paces  on  this  side  of  it  a  broad  footpath  ascends  to  the  right 
into  the  beautiful  pine-clad  *V*Jley  of  the  Hideck,  enclosed  by 


Route  44.  ROSHEIM.  The  Central 

rocks  of  porphyry,  which  vies  with  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Black 
Forest.  At  the  (1  M.)  upper  end  of  the  valley  the  Nideck  forms  a 
waterfall,  80  ft.  in  height.  High  above  it  stands  the  square  tower 
of  the  Castle  of  Nideck,  called  by  an  old  tradition  the  castle  of  the 
giants,  to  which  a  zigzag  path  ascends  to  the  right,  crossing  the 
brook  to  the  left  above  the  waterfall.  The  tower  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  valley.  From  this  point  to  the  forester's  house  of  Nideck 
(*Inn),  15-20  min.,  see  p.  288. 

From  the  forester'i  house  to  the  Schneeberg,  see  p.  288.  To  Wangen- 
barg  (p.  287)  we  first  follow  the  road  to  the  left,  then  (20  min.)  ascend 
to  the  left,  and  reach  (20  min.)  a  cross-road  with  a  guide-post.  We  next 
(5  min.)  turn  to  the  right,  descend  to  the  right  at  (l/4  hr.)  the  hamlet  of 
Wolfithal,  turn  (l/»  hr.)  to  the  left,  and  arrive  at  (»/<  hr.)  Wangenburg. 

b.   From  Zabern  to  Schlettatadt  by  Molsheim.     Wangenbnrg. 
Oirbaden.    Odilienberg.    Hohwald. 

41»/*  M.  Railway  to  Schlettatadt  in  28A  lirs.  \  fares  5  m.  30,  3  m.  50. 
2  m.  30  pf. 

Zabern,  see  p.  274.  —  2*/a  M.  OttenueiUr. 

5  M.  Maurtmftnrter,  Fr.  Marmoutier  (Krone;  Zwei  Schlussel), 
a  small  village.  The  Church  of  St,  Maurus,  which  belongs  to  an 
ancient  and  once  powerful  Benedictine  abbey,  now  suppressed, 
possesses  a  handsome  late-Romanesque  facade  and  a  vaulted  vesti- 
bule (a  favourite  style  in  Alsace ;  comp.  the  church  of  St.  Fides 
at  Schlettstadt,  and  the  church  at  Gebweiler). 

9  M.  RomanswtiUr.  (Route  to  Wangenburg ,  see  p.  287.) 
10  M.  Papiermuhle* 

11  M.  Waaselnheim,  French  Wasselonne  (*Goldner  ApfelJ,  a 
small  town  prettily  situated  on  the  Mossig,  with  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle,  and  extensive  stocking-factories.  — -  From  Wasselnheim  to 
Wangenburg,  see  p.  287. 

13  M.  Wangen;  133/4  M.  Marlehheim,  the  traditionary  home  of 
the  Nibelungen  hero,  Hagen  von  Troneck;  147*  M,  Kirchhtim; 
15 4/2  M-  Scharrachbergheim ,  2  M.  to  the  W.  of  which  lies  West- 
ho  fen,  with  a  handsome  Gothic  church  of  the  14th  cent. ;  ±7  M. 
Sulzbad ;  18M.  Avofaheim,  a  village  with  a  Romanesque  church  of 
the  11th  cent.  ('Dom-Petri'),  the  nave  of  which  has  a  flat  roof . 

20  M.  Molsheim,  the  junction  of  the  Strassburg  and  Rothau 
railway  (p.  284). 

2072  M.  Dorlisheim^  with  a  Romanesque  church. 

2372  M«  Bosheim  (Sonne;  Pflug),  a  small  town  with  4000  in- 
hab.,  once  a  free  city  of  the  empire,  has  several  times  suffered 
destruction,  but  the  mediaeval  fortifications  are  in  good  preser- 
vation. At  each  end  of  the  town,  and  also  in  the  middle  of 
the  main  street  running  from  E.  to  W.,  the  ancient  tower-gates 
are  still  standing.  The  Romanesque  Church  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul 
was  consecrated  in  1049;  the  present  edifice,  however,  dates  from 
the  12th  cent.,  and  has  been  added  to  in  Gothic  times.    Several 


Vosges.  WANGENBURG.  44.  Route.     287 

of  the  old  houses  are  very  picturesque.  —  Post-omnibus  every  morn- 
ing to  Grendelhruch  (p.  289) ,  by  which  visitors  to  Girbaden  may 
go  as  far  as  Bildhauerhof. 

24V4  M.  Bischofsheim. 

26  M.  Ober-Ehnheim,  French  Obernai  (Hdtel  Dubs,  by  the 
church ;  Zwei  Schlussel),  with  5000  inhab.,  and  several  manufac- 
tories, was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  free  imperial  town  by  Emp. 
Frederick  II.  The  Town  Hall  of  1523,  thoroughly  restored  in 
1849,  contains  an  interesting  old  council-chamber;  in  front  of  it 
is  a  draw-well.  There  are  several  other  picturesque  houses.  — 
From  Ober-Ehnheim  to  the  Odilienberg,  see  p.  289. 

28  M.  OoxweiUr  produces  a  good  variety  of  white  wine  (*Cla- 
vener') ;  the  station  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains,  with  their 
numerous  ruined  castles.  Pleasant  walk  through  the  'Heiligensteiner 
An'  to  Heiligenstein  (p.  289).  —  30  M.  Qertweiler. 

30l/2  M.  Bart  (* Rothes  Haus;  Krone;  Ooldner  Apfel;  Inn  and 
Hydropathic  Establishment  Zum  Buhl;  *Rail.  Restaurant),  a  busy 
little  town  of  5800  inhab'.,  with  extensive  tanneries,  is  prettily 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  KirneckthaL  The  Town  Hall  in  the 
market-place  was  built  in  1640. 

32  M.  Eichhofen,  station  for  Andlau  (2M.;  p.  291),  andtftote- 
heim,  21/2  M.  to  the  W.  Then  (33i/2  M.)  Epfig,  with  about  3000 
inhab.;  at  the  E.  end  is  the  early -Romanesque  Margarethencapelle. 

36 1/2  M.  Dambach  (* Krone),  a  small  town  of  upwards  of  3000 
inhab.,  with  the  remains  of  old  fortifications  and  several  late- Gothic 
houses.  The  St.  Sebastian scapelle  to  the  W.,  with  its  Romanesque 
tower  and  Gothic  choir,  contains  a  richly-carved  wooden  altar. 
Passing  the  chapel  we  reach  in  40  min.  the  extensive  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Bernstein ,  whence  we  may  proceed  (with  guide)  to  the 
(10  min*)  Halgenstein,  a  huge  rock  of  granite  affording  an  extensive 
view  of  the  Weilerthal,  and  then  by  the  castle  of  Ortenburg,  with 
its  bold  pentagonal  tower  of  the  13th  cent.,  and  that  of  Ramstein 

S>cally  known  as  the  'Scherweiler  Schlosser'),    to  Kestenholz 
.  292). 
39  M.  Scherweiler,  where  the  insurgent  peasants  were  defeated 
in  the  Peasants'  War  of  1525.  —  41 1/2  M.  Schlettstadt,  see  p.  278. 


From  Wasselnheim  to  "Wangbnburg  ,  7l/2  M.,  carriage  in 
2hrs.,  12-16  m. ;  a  single  seatlm.  (no  regular  communication). 
The  road  runs  to  the  W.  past  (2  M.)  Romansweiler  (p.  286), 
crosses  the  Mossig,  and  then  ascends  the  wooded  and  confined 
valley  watered  by  that  stream. 

From  Zabern  to  Wangenburg,  10  M.,  see  pp.  275,  276. 

Wangenburg  (1476  ft. ;  *H6tel  Weyer,  near  the  new  church,  D. 
2  m.  40  pf.,  'pens.'  3y2-4m.,  omnibus  to  meet  the  trains  at  Ro- 
mansweiler, p.  286 ;  Zur  Schonen  Aussicht,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
village),  a  small,  scattered  village,  commanded  by  the  ruins  -of  the 


288     Route  44.  GIRBADEN.  The  Central 

castle  of  that  name  (built  in  the  13th  cent.),  is  beautifully  situated 
among  meadows  surrounded  by  pine-forest,  and  frequently  visited 
in  summer  on  account  of  the  purity  of  its  air. 

The  route  from  Wangenburg  to  the  top  of  the  Boh&eeberff  (3159  ft.; 
1 V2  hr.)  descends  to  the  left  near  the  church,  passes  between  a  con- 
duit and  a  group  of  houses,  and  then  ascends  to  the  left  by  a  footpath 
constructed  by-  the  Vosges  Club  (not  to  be  mistaken ;  finger-post). 
On  quitting  the  wood  (iy4  hr.)  the  path  proceeds  to  the  left  in  the 
direction  of  the  rocks.  The  summit  (*/4  hr.)  commands  an  extensive 
♦View  over  Alsace  (to  the  W.),  the  plain  of  Lorraine  (to  the  E.), 
and  the  Vosges.  —  Descending  to  the  S.,  we  come,  in  5  min.,  to 
the  beginning  of  the  wood  (notice-board  on  a  tree  to  the  right) ; 
in  10  min.  more,  to  an  expanse  covered  with  ferns,  which  encroach 
upon  the  path ;  and  soon  reach  a  stony  road,,  along  which  we  proceed 
to  the  right  (or  we  may  descend  through  the  wood  to  the  E.,  a  route 
with  several  fine  views)  till  we  reach  the  highway,  Here  we  turn 
to  the  left,  and  in  5  min.  (l1^  hr.  from  the  Schneeberg)  reach  the 
forester's  house  of  Nideek  (*Inn).  Thence  to  Nideck  Castle  (see 
p.  286),  */4  hr. :  we  turn  to  the  right  by  a  well  near  the  forester's 
house,  and  follow  the  narrow  path  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream, 
crossing  the  broad  paths,  and  soon  reaching  the  foot  of  the  castle. 
To  Nieder-Haslach,  see  p.  285,  and  Map,  p.  284. 

Good  walkers  will  find  it  pleasant  to  proceed  hence  by  the  Noll  and 
the  Donon  to  (6  hra.)  Schinmck  (p.  284). 

The  Ruins  of  Girbadbn  may  be  visited  either  from  Gress- 
weiler  (p.  284),  Rosheim  (p.  286),  or  Urmatt  (p.  284).  Starting 
from  Gressweiler  we  follow  the  road  in  a  S.W.  direction  to  (3  M.) 
Laubenhain,  in  the  valley  of  the  Magetbaeh,  from  which  Girbaden 
may  be  reached  by  a  footpath  in  about  3/4  hr.  —  Leaving  the  station 
at  Rosheim  we  follow  the  principal  street  intersecting  the  village  to 
the  W.  for  about  V2M.,  and  then  ascend  gradually  by  the  high-road. 
Beyond  the  (3  M.)  Bildhauerhof  we  reach  a  finger-post,  indicating 
the  way  straight  on  to  (4i/2  M.)  Grendelbruch,  to  the  left  to  (1^/4M.) 
Klingenthal,  and  to  the  right  to  (I72  M0  Mollkirch.  We  proceed 
in  the  last  direction  to  (Y2  M.)  a  second  finger-post,  which  points 
across  the  bridge,  to  the  left,  to  Laubenhain  (see  above). 

Schloss  Girbaden  (1870  ft.),  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  exten- 
sive fortresses  in  Alsace,  is  said  once  to  have  possessed  14  gates  and 
14  court-yards,  and  is  still  an  imposing  ruin.  It  was  probably 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  13th  century.  In  the  W.  portion  a  hall, 
the  handsome  windows  of  which  are  bordered  with  clustered  pillars, 
is  still  traceable.  The  Chapel  of  St.  Valentine,  which  has  been 
erected  among  the  ruins  beside  the  square  W.  tower,  is  much  fre- 
quented by  pilgrims.  —  On  the  crest  of  the  hill,  10  min.  to  the  E., 
is  the  Oirbadener  Hof  (refreshments). 

Travellers  coining  from  the"N.  {e.g.  from  Wangenburg,  or  the  Schneeberg) 
and  wishing  to  proceed  to  Girbaden,  may  do  so  by  crossing  the  hill  from 


Voagea.  HEILIOENSTBIN.  44.  Route.     289 

JfUder-Hatiach  (p.  286)  to  (20  min.)  Urmatt  (p.  284)  and  (l/a  br.)  MQhlbach, 
where  they  turn  to  the  left,  at  the  church,  and  ascend  the  side-valley. 
About  1  M.  farther  on,  the  road  divides;  we  take  the  branch  to  the 
right  to  (2>/s  H.)  Grendeibrueh  (Httel  BchalUr,  'pens/  3V«4  m.)>  a  favourite 
summer-resort  of  the  Strassburgers.  Omnibus  to  Bosheim  once  daily,  see 
p.  287.  Fine  view  from  the  FalkensteinfeUen,  V/%  M.  from  the  hotel.  From 
Orendelbruch  to  Oirbaden  in  1  hr. ;  the  footpath  quits  the  road  to  Ros- 
beim,  a  few  hundred  paces  below  tfee  village,  and  ascends  the  slope. 

A  considerably  shorter  path  leads  direct  to  the  8.  to  Girbaden ,  quit- 
ting the  road  1»/*  M.  to  the  E.  of  Urmatt,  about  V*  *•  to  the  E.  of  the 
point  where  the  Niederhaslach  road  joins  the  Breuschthal  road;  comp. 
Hap,  p.  284. 

At  the  Oirbadener  Hof  the  traveller  should  ask  the  way  to  the  small 
village  of  Laubtnhain,  mentioned  above,  which  is  reached  after  a  steep 
descent  of  25  min.  (the  footpath  at  first  not  being  well  defined).  Thence  in 
6  min.  to  a  road  (several  guide-posts,  comp.  p.  288),  leading  to  (2l/t  M.) 
Klingenthal  (see  below  •,  ascent  of  the  Odilienberg  2  hrs.  more). 


Ascent  or  the  Odilxenbbbg  (comp.  also  Prof.  Eu  ting's  Map, 
on  a  scale  of  1 :  40,000 ;  numerous  finger-posts).  —  Fkom  Obbb.- 
Ehnhbim  (carriage  there  and  back  9-12  m.)  the  road  leads  to  the 
W.  by  (272  M.)  Nieder-Otrott  (787  ft. ;  Schwan,  good  red  wine),  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  then  winds  round  the  eminence  (1643  ft., 
ascended  in  40  min. ;  zigzag  footpath  to  the  new  pavilion  on  the 
Elzberg  and  to  the  Dreistein,  p.  290),  which  is  crowned  by  the 
ruins  of  Lutzelburg  and  Rathsamhausen.  At  (1 */4  M/)  Klingenthal 
(beer  at  Herr's)  a  road  to  (23/4  M.)  Lanbenhain  (p.  28o)  diverges  to 
the  N.  (right).  The  road  to  the  Odilienberg  traverses  beautiful 
woods,  and  reaches  the  convent  in  2  hrs. 

Pedestrians  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  following  the  road  from 
Nieder-Otrott  to  Ober-Otrott,  and  7  min.  beyond  the  latter  (or  about  halfway 
to  St.  Ndbor),  taking  a  forest-path  to  the  right  which  follows  an  ancient 
Roman  causeway  and  leads  to  the  top  in  l1/*  hour.  Another  path,  re- 
cently constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  ascends  direct  from  Ober-Otrott. 
A  third  route  leads  from  8t.  Nabor  past  Nitdermilnsttr  (with  a  chapel 
lately  rebuilt,  and  a  farm-house  adjacent),  also  founded  by  St.  Odilie,  and 
afterwards  joins  the  road  from  Barr. 

From  Bark  (p.  287)  to  the  Odilibnbbbg  (2y2  hrs.)  the  route 
is  more  picturesque  than  from  Ober-Ehnheim.  —  The  road  leads 
from  the  station  direct  to  the  N.,  via  (1  M.)  Heiligenstein  (Stern, 
opposite  the  Rathhaus,  good  'Clavener'),  i/2  M.  beyond  which  a 
finger-post  indicates  the  way  (to  the  left)  to  (%  M)  Truttenhausen 
and  (3% M.)  St.  Odile.  The  suppressed  Augustinian  abbey  of  Trut- 
tenhausen (1230  ft.)  was  founded  in  1181;  it  is  now,  along  with 
the  ruins  of  the  Gothic  abbey-church ,  dating  from  1490,  private 
property.  —  To  the  W.,  situated  on  the  slope  of  the  Bloss,  of 
which  the  Mennelstein  is  the  highest  point,  we  observe  the  ruins 
of  the  castle  of  Landsperg  (1916  ft.),  erected  in  the  13th  century. 
—  A  few  hundred  paces  beyond  Truttenhausen,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  wood,  is  a  finger-post,  pointing  in  a  straight  direction 
to  St.  Odile,  and  to  the  left  to  Landsperg.  Another  finger-post  is 
reached  about  iy2  M.  farther  on,  in  a  clearing  in  the  wood,  which 
affords  a  view   of  the  monastery  above;    it  indicates  the  way  to 

Baedbkkb's  Rhine.    8th  Edit  19 


290    Route  44.  ODILIENBERG.  The  Central 

Niedermunster  (see  above)  on  the  right,  and  St.  Odile  on  the  left. 
Continuing  the  steep  ascent,  we  reach  the  OdUienbrunnenj  welling 
up  in  a  grotto  close  to  the  new  road ,  the  water  of  which  has  been 
used  by  thousands  of  devotees  as  a  cure  for  diseases  of  the  eye. 
The  convent  is  reached  in  V4  hr.  more. 

Another  route  from  Barr  leads  past  the  Protestant  church  to  the  for- 
ester's house  of  Heywang,  and  then  by  a  good  path  to  (1  hr.)  the  ruin  of 
Landsperg  (see  above),  whence  we  may  either  follow  the  path  of  the 
Vosges  Club  to  the  MenneUtein  (see  below),  or  proceed  direct  to  the 
nunnery. 

The  *  Odilienberg  is  a  long  mountain  with  a  rocky  eminence 
(2469  ft.)  in  the  middle,  on  the  E.  side  of  which  stands  a  nunnery 
founded  by  Si.  Odilie,  the  patron  saint  of  Alsace.  The  abbey- 
church,  which  is  much  frequented  by  pilgrims,  and  has  even  been 
visited  by  emperors  and  popes,  contains  the  tomb  of  the  foundress. 
[*Inn  at  the  nunnery,  R.  H/j,  D.  Itfe,  'pension'  5  m.).  Tradition 
relates  that  Odilie,  the  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  Alsace  (7th  cent.), 
was  born  blind,  but  gained  her  sight  on  being  baptised ,  and  after- 
wards spent  a  long  life  here  in  all  the  odour  of  sanctity.  The 
Odilienberg,  or  'Hohenburg',  was  fortified  at  a  remote  period. 
Maximian,  the  co-regent  of  Diocletian,  is  said  to  have  erected  a 
castle  here  against  the  Alemanni  about  the  year  300,  and  it  is  at 
all  events  certain  that  a  Roman  road  led  to  this  spot  (see  above). 
Authorities  are  not  quite  agreed  as  to  the  origin  of  the  Heidcn- 
mauer,  a  wall  encircling  the  entire  hill,  6-10  ft.  in  height,  6*/2  ft. 
in  thickness,  and  still  comparatively  well-preserved.  The  fact 
that  the  blocks  of  sandstone  are  hewn,  and  the  way  in  which  they 
are  dove  -  tailed  into  each  other ,  seem,  however ,  to  prove  that 
it  is  not  a  pre-Roman  monument,  but  was  more  probably  erected 
in  the  4th,  5th,  or  6th  cent.,  as  a  place  of  refuge  from  the  preda- 
tory attacks  of  the  barbarians. 

The  highest  point  of  the  ridge  is  the  'Xennelstein  (2673  ft.), 
which  rises  to  the  S.,  and  may  be  ascended  from  the  nunnery  in 
V2  hour.  In  clear  weather  it  commands  a  view  embracing  almost  the 
whale  of  Alsace,  the  Breisgau  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest,  the  Vosges 
:(to  the  S.  the  Kirneckthal,  the  Andlauer  Schloss,  and  the  Spesburg), 
the  Rhine,  and,  towards  the  S.,  the  Alps.  On  the  left  side  of 
the  Mennelstein,  towards  the  plain,  are  extensive  remains  of  the 
Heidenmauer.  —  At  the  N.  extremity  of  the  Odilienberg  lies  the 
ruin  of  Waldsberg,  or  Hagelschloss,  which  may  be  reached  in  %  hr. 
(the  ruin  itself  is  difficult  of  access).  More  to  the  W.  is  the  ruin 
of  Dreistein,  buried  in  wood,  consisting  of  two  castles  (once  three) 
of  the  13th  century. 

From  the  Odilienberg  the  traveller  may  proceed  by  a  path  through 
the  woods  (indicated  by  finger-posts),  in  2f/2  hrs.  to  Hohwald  (p.  291). 
We  proceed  straight  from  the  convent  along  the  Klingenthal  road  as 
far  as  the  (7  min.)  first  bend,  where  a  finger-post  shows  our  way  to  the 
left.  The  greater  part  of  the  route  is  through  pleasant  woods.  At  the 
forester's  house  of  WeUchbruch  we  strike  the  footpath  traversing  the 
Kirneckthal  (see  p.  291).       ^^^ 


Vosges.  HOHWALD.  44.  Route.    291 

From  Bark  to  Hohwald.  Post-omnibus  from  Ban  every 
morning,  and  from  Hohwald  every  afternoon ;  carriage  8-10  m. 

The  Carriage-Road  from  Barr  to  Hohwald,  83/4  M. ,  leads  by 
Mittelbergheim  to  Andlau  (Krone ;  Engel),  a  small  town  with  2000  in- 
hab.,  prettily  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Andlau-Thal,  with 
several  old  timber  houses,  and  a  Romanesque  *  Abbey  Church  of  the 
12th  cent.,  with  Gothic  additions,  altered  in  1701,  and  judiciously 
restored  in  1861.  The  crypt  (11th  cent.)  is  borne  by  pillars.  The 
facade  is  ornamented  with  rude ,  fantastic  reliefs,  and  the  choir- 
stalls  are  very  handsome. —  The  road  then  ascends  the  pleasant  valley 
of  the  Andlau,  through  beautiful  woods,  passing  the  ruins  of  Andlau 
and  Spesburg  on  the  right  (connected  with  each  other  by  a  foot- 
path), and  numerous  saw-mills. 

Pedestrians  should  walk  through  the  town  of  Barr,  and  from 
the  W.  end  of  it  (2  M.  from  the  station)  ascend  the  road  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Kirneck  as  far  as  the  (2  M.)  lHolzplatz\  where  there 
are  several  saw-mills  and  extensive  stores  of  wood.  The  carriage- 
road  terminates  here ,  and  a  'Schlittweg',  or  sledge-track  for  the 
descent  of  timber,  begins,  by  which  the  forester's  house  of  Welsch- 
brueh (refreshments;  route  to  the  Neuntenstein,  see  below)  is  reach- 
ed in  1  */*  hr. ;  a  footpath  thence  leads  to  Hohwald  in  another  lfa  hr. 

Hohwald.  —  Hotels.  *Kuntz,  D.  incl.  wine  2,  S.  l»/«,  R-  from  1  m., 
with  baths-,  *Mabschall,  also  with  baths \  'pens.'  at  both  of  these  for  a 
stay  of  a  week  or  more,  5  m.  per  day,  excl.  of  wine  ;  Stadf,  1/4  M.  below 
the  other  hotels. 

Hohwald  (2198  ft.)  is  a  straggling  village  with  above  600  inhab. , 
and  a  Protestant  and  a  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Its  healthy  and  at 
the  same  time  sheltered  and  picturesque  situation  has  made  it  one 
of  the  most  frequented  summer-resorts  in  the  Vosges. 

The  wooded  *Envibons  of  Hohwald  afford  many  pleasant  excursions, 
which  are  greatly  facilitated  by  numerous  wayposts.  To  *Bellevue 
(1  hr.):  we  turn  to  the  right  at  the  first  saw-mill  below  the  hotel, 
cross  the  bridge,  and  skirt  the  wood  for  about  V«  M.,  until  we  reach 
the  beginning  (on  the  left)  of  a  narrow,  partly  grass-grown  path,  which 
afterwards  widens  and  winds  gradually  round  the  mountain,  chiefly 
through  wood,  and  keeping  at  nearly  the  same  elevation.  At  the  exit 
from  the  wood  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Breitenbach, 
and  V<  H.  farther  of  the  Weilerthal.  —  To  the  * Neuntenstein  (there  in 
I74  hr.,  back  in  '/*  hr.),  a  fine  point  of  view:  we  turn  to  the  left  at 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  situated  on  an  eminence  near  the  hotel,  and 
ascend  by  a  steep  footpath  (numerous  finger-posts);  another  path  leads 
from  the  forester's  house  of  Welschbruch  (2  M. ;  see  above).  Inn  at 
the  adjacent  forester's  house  of  Rothlach.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the  wood, 
about  l/*  M.  above  the  hotel,  on  the  right  side  of  the  road,  is  a  guide- 

?ost,  indicating  the  way  to  the  Batheamhausenstein  <3441  ft.;  there  in 
1/2  hr.,  back  1  hr.  \  view  over  the  upper  Breuschthal),  the  Cascade 
du  Hohwald  (»/«  hr.),  and  the  Champ-du-Feu.  —  The  Pelage  (3110  ft.), 
another  favourite  point,  is  reached  by  the  road  below  the  hotel,  leading 
to  the  W.  across  the  bridge*,  it  affords  a  picturesque  view  of  the 
-Weilerthal,  which  may  be  descended  from  the  Pelage  via  Breitenbach. 

The  Hochfeld,  French  Champ-du-Feu  (3590  ft.),  is  ascended  from  Hoh- 
wald in  21/4  hrs.  (guide  unnecessary  •,  finger-posts,  see  above).  It  commands 
an  extensive  view.  At  the  top  is  a  tower  used  for  trigonometrical 
surveys.    The  path  we  follow  in  returning  skirts  the  trench  dug  across 

19* 


292     Route  44.  WEILERTHAL.  The  Upper 

the  ridge,  and  in  about  25  min.  leads  to  the  dairy-farm  of  K&lberhOite 
(the  Pelage  is  x/i  M.  to  the  right,  the  new  dairy  lies  on  the  left),  whence 
Hohwald  is  reached  in  2  hrs. 

From  Hohwald  to  Wkilek,  21/*  hours.  Follow  the  above-described 
route  to  Bellevue,  then  descend  to  Breitenbach  (Inn  by  the  church)  and 
thence  proceed  by  the  road  to  (41/*  M.)  Weiler. 

Weiler,  French  Villi  (*Zur  Alien  Post,  moderate),  with  1150  inhab.,  is 
the  chief  place  in  the  valley  which  diverges  from  the  Leberthal  at  Weiler- 
thal.  A  road  leads  from  Weiler  by  (1  M.)  Triembach,  (iyt  M.)  St.  Moritz, 
and  (1V4  H.)  Thame  eiler,  with  a  chateau  belonging  to  the  Vicomte  de 
Gastex,  built  in  1518-40  and  restored  last  century,  to  0  M.)  the  railway- 
station  Weilerthal  (see  below) ;  post-omnibus  daily  from  Weiler  to  Weiler- 
thal,  fare  75  c,  carriage  31/*  fr. 

II.   Thb  Uppbb,  ob  High  Vosgbb  Mts. 

Four  Dats  suffice  for  a  glance  at  the  Upper  Vosges  Mts. :  By  railway 
in  the  afternoon  from  Strassburg  to  Weilerthal  (see  below),  and  thence  in 
the  evening  to  the  summit  of  the  Hohen-KOnigtburg,  2V<  hrs.  —  1st  day. 
To  Rappoltstceiler  8  hrs.,  Kaysersberg  2  hrs.,  Orbey  2lU  hrs.,  in  all  7lA  hrs. 
—  2nd  Day.  Weiste  See  2  hrs.,  Reitberg  lU  hr.,  Daaretuee  1  hr.,  Schluchi 
I1/4  hr..in  all  5-6  hrs.  —  3rd  Day.  MUnster  3  hrs.,  explore  environs  (Schloss- 
wald)  21/*  hrs.,  on  foot  or  by  omnibus  to  Metzeral  l»/4hr.  —  4th  Day.  Over 
the  Herrenberg  to  Wildenstein  in  4*/4  hrs.,  Wesserling  2  hrs.,  in  all  6»/«  hrs. 

a.  From  ScMettetadt  to  Markirch.  Hohenkdnigiburg.  Rappoltt- 
weiler. 

13  M.  Railway  in  IV4  hr. ;  fares  1  m.  80,  1  m.  20,  75  pf. 

8chletUtadt,  see  p.  278. 

The  line  ascends  the  Leberthal ,  a  picturesque  valley  enclosed 
by  wooded  hills,  with  an  industrious  population. 

3  M.  Xeste&holi,  French  Ch&tenois  (Etablissement  Badbronn, 
with  120  rooms,  very  comfortably  fitted  up,  board  20  m.  per  week, 
R.  &  S.  extra),  a  place  with  3800  inhab.,  situated  at  the  beginning 
of  the  narrower  part  of  the  valley,  was  visited  by  a  destructive  fire 
in  1879.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Hahnenberg,  on  which  rise  two 
warm  mineral  springs  (61°  Fahr.).  To  the  N.  are  the  Scherweiler 
Schlosser  (p.  287).  —  New  road  to  Hohen-Konigsburg,  see  p.  294. 

A  road  leads  from  Kestenhols  to  (1  M.)  Kinsheim,  an  ancient  village, 
commanded  by  a  castle  of  the  same  name,  a  ruin  since  the  Thirty  Years 
War.    The  Hohen-Konigsburg  may  be  ascended  hence  in  2  hours. 

B3/4  M.  Weilerthal,  French  VaUde-VilU,  lies  at  the  entrance  of 
the  valley  ascending  to  the  right  to  Weiler  (and  Hohwald,  see 
above).  Above  it  to  the  right,  on  the  hill  where  the  two  valleys 
unite,  rises  the  ruin  of  Frankenburg,  with  its  massive,  round  tower, 
built  in  the  12th  cent.,  and  burned  down  in  1582.  (From  Weiler- 
thal to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg,  see  p.  293.) 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  Leberthal.  —  6l/2  M.  Wanzell, 
whence  there  is  a  footpath  to  the  Hohenkonigsburg.  8%  M.  Le- 
berau,  French  Liepvre  (Grand  Cerf ;  Rest.  La  Fleur),  opposite  the 
entrance  to  the  Rumbachthal ,  a  valley  of  imposing  beauty ,  still 
little  known  to  the  tourist ;  the  principal  place  in  it  is  Deutsch- 
Rumbach,  with  a  French-speaking  population,  ll1/*.  M.  Heilig- 
Kreuz,  French  Ste.  Croix-aux- Mines. 


Vosges.  MARK1RCH.  44   Route.     293 

13  M.  Xarkdrch,  French  8te.  Marie-aux- Mines  (Hdtel  du  Com- 
mcrce;  *  Grand  Cerf;  Lauterbaeh,  near  the  station;  Brasserie  de 
V Action,  Brasserie  Qruber,  with  gardens),  the  capital  of  the  valley, 
with  11,600  inhab.,  has  considerable  wool  and  cotton-factories.  The 
once  productive  silver  -  mines  have  been  long  exhausted.  The 
boundary  between  the  French  and  German  languages  formerly  pass- 
ed exactly  through  the  middle  of  the  town ,  the  right  bank  of  the 
Leber  or  Lihpvrette  being  German,  the  left  French,  but  It  is  now  less 
strongly  denned.  The  German-speaking  portion  embraced  the  Re- 
formation and  was  subject  to  the  Counts  of  Rappoltstein,  while  the 
French  inhabitants  were  Roman  Catholic  and  under  the  sway  of  the 
Dukes  of  Lorraine. 

A  pleasant  Walk  may  be  taken  by  the  St.  Die*  road  (the  bends 
may  be  avoided  by  short-cats)  to  (3  M.)  the  frontier  (Inn,  with  good  red 
wine),  and  then  to  the  right  along  the  frontier  to  (*|a  M.)  a  Pavilion, 
situated  exactly  upon  the  boundary-line,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Meurthe,  and  of  St.  Die*  and  its  environs.  —  The  lime- 
stone-quarries of  St.  Philip ,  sunk  in  the  gneiss  rock,  17s  M.  from  the 
town,   are  interesting. 

From  Markirch  to  Rappoltsweiler,  11 74  M.,  there  is  a  good  road 
leading  across  the  hill.  The  old  road,  diverging  to  the  left  from  the 
new,  i/2  M.  from  Markirch,  effects  a  considerable  saving.  It  first  passes 
some  cherry-trees  and  then  leads  generally  through  a  dale,  rejoining  the 
new  road  in  about  7s  hour.  Fine  retrospect  of  Markirch.  Short-cuts  may 
also  be  made  at  various  points  farther  on  by  following  the  telegraph- 
posts.  The  summit  of  the  hill  (2411  ft.)  is  about  halfway.  The  road  then 
descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Strengbach  ,  and  leads  through  wood 
nearly  the  whole  way  to  Rappoltsweiler.  About  17a  M.  from  the  summit, 
and  37s  M.  from  Rappoltsweiler,  a  new  road  begins  to  ascend  to  the 
right  (S.),  leading  to  (3  M.)  Altweier,  Fr.  Aubure,  which  is  also  con- 
nected with  Markirch  by  a  direct  road.  The  tower  of  the  picturesque 
ruin  of  Bilstein  (1  hr.  from  Altweier)  next  comes  in  Sight  on  a  hill  to 
the  right;  while  to  the  left  are  the  three  castles  of  Rappoltsweiler,  easily 
reached  in  1/a-\  hr.  by  the  path  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club  through 
the  Dusenbaeh thai,  the  entrance  of  which  is  about  1  M.  on  this  side  of 
Rappoltsweiler  (comp.  p.  2&>). 

The  Ascent  op  the  Bbessoib,  which  may  be  accomplished  from 
Markirch  in  about  3  hrs.,  is  a  very  pleasant  excursion  (guide  advisable). 
We  follow  the  road  ascending  the  Leber  thai  to  (7a  hr.)  Eckirch  or 
Eichery  (1407  ft),  to  the  left  of  which  a  brook,  rising  on  the  Bressoir  and 
flowing  through  the  Rauenthal,  joins  the  Leber.  From  this  point  a  path, 
&t  first  steep  and  afterwards  traversing  wood,  ascends  the  spur  which 
divides  the  Rauenthal  from  the  Leberthal  to  the  farmhouse  of  (17s  hr.) 
Beycot  (refreshments),  whence  the  summit  is  reached  in  about  */4  hr.  — 
[We  may  also  make  the  ascent  from  Eckirch,  either  by  ascending  the 
Rauenthal,  or  by  keeping  to  the  carriage-road  up  the  Leberthal  as  far  as 
&  small  inn  ('Les  Bagenettes')  upon  a  height,  where  we  turn  to  the  £., 
towards  the  farm  of  Heycot]  —  The  'Breasoir,  or  BlutUnberg  (4039  ft.), 
commands  a  most  extensive  view  over  hill  and  plain,  including  the  Alps 
in  clear  weather.  It  may  also  be  ascended  from  Urbaeh  or  Friland  (p.  297), 
or  from  Altweier  (see  above)  in  2-27«  hrs. 


From  Weilerthal  (p.  292)  a  good  road  ascends  in  windings  through 
wood  to  the  (8  M.)  Hohen-Konigsburo.  About  lj%  ^r«  below  the 
top,  on  which  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  castle,  is  the  new  Hohen- 
Konigsburg  Hotel,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Rhine  and  the  slopes  of  the  Vosges.    Farther  up  is  the  Forsthaus. 


294     Route  44.       H0HEN-K6NIGSBURG.  The  Upper 

Pbdbstkiaks  follow  the  road  skirting  the  hill,  to  the  left  of  the  railway 
(passing  the  ruin  of  Frankenburg,  p.  292,  on  the  hill  where  the  Leberthal 
and  Weilerthal  divide),  as  far  as  the  (*/4  M.)  third  road  diverging  to  the 
left,  where  a  stone  indicates  this  as  the  route  to  the  Hohen-Konigsburg 
and  Wick  (a  forester's  house).  About  3/4  M.  farther  another  stone  indicates 
the  way  to  the  right.  The  road  traverses  beautiful  woods  at  the  base  of 
the  Hohen-Konigsburg.  After  2  M.  more  a  footpath  diverges  to  the  left 
(finger-post),  which  ascends  in  1  hr.  (the  last  20  min.  again  on  the  car- 
riage-road) to  the  hotel. 

Other  very  pleasant  routes,  also  partly  indicated  by  direction-posts, 
ascend  from  Leberau  (p.  292)  and  St.  Pilt  (p.  278;  iy*  hr.).  A  fourth 
path,  constructed  by  the  Vosges  Club,  and  also  provided  with  finger-posts, 
leads  from  Kestenholz  to  the  top  in  l1/*  hr. ;  or  via  Kinzheim  in  2  hrs. 

The  path  to  the  right  by  the  huge  S.W.  tower  leads  to  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  of  the  castle. 

The  *Hohen-Xdnigsburg,  1679  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is,  after 
Girbaden(p.  288),  the  largest  castle  in  Alsace.  Its  huge  walls  of  sand- 
stone, towering  above  the  dark-green  chestnut  wood,  are  strikingly 
picturesque.  The  ruins  are  still  in  tolerable  preservation.  The  W. 
portion  served  for  purposes  of  defence,  while  the  dwelling-rooms 
were  in  the  E.  part.  Passing  through  the  principal  entrance,  we 
enter  a  Court-yard,  from  which  we  pass  through  the  Lowcn-Thor 
(commemorating  the  dukes  of  the  hoifse  of  Hohenstaufen,  p.  297), 
to  the  Inner  Quadrangle.  The  handsome  main  building  here  (15th 
cent.)  consists  of  four  stories,  the  lowest  of  which  was  the  kitchen, 
the  others  the  dwelling-rooms.  The  platform  of  the  E.  tower  com- 
mands a  most  extensive  *View. 

Nothing  certain  is  known  of  the  origin  of  the  castle,  but  it  has  ob- 
viously been  the  work  of  several  centuries.  As  early  as  1462  the  castle 
was  partially  destroyed  by  the  Bishop  of  Strassburg  and  the  Archduke 
Sigismund  of  Austria  on  account  of  depredations  committed  by  its  pro- 
prietor. It  was  subsequently  restored,  but  was  bombarded  and  burned  by 
the  Swedes  in  1633.  In  1864  it  was  purchased  by  the  town  of  Schlett- 
stadt,  and  steps  have  been  taken  to  prevent  its  farther  dilapidation. 

From  the  Hohen-Konigsburg  a  path  not  easily  mistaken  leads  to 
the  S.W.,  passing  a  forester's  house  (20  min.)  to  the  right,  which 
has  been  already  visible  from  above,  to  (1  hr.)  Thannenkirch  (Lirot's 
Inn),  a  scattered  village,  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  Tdnnchel  (2975  ft. ; 
with  a  'Heidenmauer'  like  that  on  the  Odilienberg,  and  a  fine  view). 
Rappoltsweiler  may  be  reached  hence  in  13/4  hr.,  either  by  the 
road  descending  the  valley  to  Bergheim,  or  by  a  footpath  across  the 
hill  (at  first  rather  steep),  past  the  three  castles  of  Rappoltsweiler. 

The  latter  route  ascends  to  the  E.  past  the  church.  From  the  (s/4  hr.) 
summit  of  the  hill  a  view  is  obtained  of  Hohen-Rappoltstein.  We  keep 
to  the  main  path,  passing  several  boundary-stones*,  at  stone  No.  29  the 
road  to  the  castles  diverges  to  the  right,  while  that  to  Rappoltsweiler 
turns  to  the  left. 

Rappoltsweiler  (locally  called  Rapperschwier),  French  Ribcau- 
ville  (*ffitel  de  Nancy ;  *Zum  Lamm,  R.  H/2  m.,  B.  80  pf.),  an 
old  cotton-manufacturing  town,  with  6000  inhab.,  2Y2M.  from  the 
station  (p.  278),  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  steam- tramway, 
lies  at  the  entrance  of  a  short,  but  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  the 


Vosges.  RAPPOLTSWEILER.         44.  Route.    295 

Strengbach,  and  bounded  by  productive  vineyards  (p.  278).  On  the 
rocks  above,  to  the  right,  rise  the  'Three  Castles'  of  the  Counts  of 
Bappoltstein,  a  family  often  mentioned  in  the  mediaeval  history  of 
Alsace. 

The  Count  of  Rappollstem  was  the  'king'  of  all  the  musicians  and 
minstrels  of  the  upper  Rhine,  who  recognised  him  as  the  head  of  their 
brotherhood  and  paid  him  a  yearly  tax,  while  he  in  return  extended  to 
them  the  benefit  of  his  protection.  Every  year  on  8th  Sept.  (which  is 
still  the  date  of  a  local  feast),  these  wanderers  assembled  atRappolts* 
weiler  (afterwards  at  Bischweiler)  to  celebrate  a  joyous  festival,  called 
the  'Pfeifertag',  and  to  settle  all  their  disputes.  On  the  death  of  the 
last  Count  of  Bappoltstein  in  1673,  this  singular  jurisdiction,  along  with 
the  title  of  'king  of  the  pipers',  was  conferred  on  the  Counts- Palatine  of 
Birhenfeld  (afterwards  Zweibriicken-Bir ken/eld),  who  were  in  the  service 
of  France,  and  was  retained  by  them  until  they  were  deprived  of  it  by 
the  French  Revolution.  Max  Joseph,  Duke  of  Pfalz-Zweibriicken,  a  colo- 
nel in  the  French  service  (1777),  and  afterwards  King  of  Bavaria  (d.  1826), 
resided  in  the  chateau  (now  a  school)  down  to  1782. 

The  ancient  town-walls  of  the  the  14th-16th  cent,  are  still  partly 
extant.  A  long  street,  containing  many  fine  old  houses  of  the  15th 
and  16th  centuries,  intersects  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  The  Metzger- 
thurm,  in  the  market-place,  is  a  remnant  of  the  inner  fortifications, 
which  once  separated  the  four  adjacent  parishes,  now  forming  the 
town  of  Rappoltsweiler.  The  tower  bears  the  coat-of-arms  of  the 
counts.  Near  it  is  a  handsome  fountain,  and  farther  up  a  modern 
one ,  with  a  figure  representing  Alsatia ,  by  Friedrich.  The  Gothic 
Parish  Church  was  completed  in  1473.  Philip  Jacob  Spener ,  the 
eminent  theologian  (1635-1705),  was  a  native  of  Rappoltsweiler. 

In  order  to  visit  the  three  castles  we  traverse  the  town  to  the 
upper  gate,  where  the  Markirch  road  (p.  293)  issues,  and  then 
ascend  to  the  right  along  the  town-wall.  In  5  min.,  at  a  point 
where  the  road  begins  to  descend,  we  strike  off  by  a  footpath 
ascending  to  the  left,  and  a  few  paces  farther  on  again  turn  to  the 
left.  In  %  hr.  we  reach  the  *St.  TJlrlchfl-Burg,  the  most  modern 
of  the  three  castles,  erected  about  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent., 
and  abandoned  since  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  It  is  remarkable  for 
its  artistic  architecture  (transition-style),  best  exhibited  in  the 
spacious  'RittersaaT,  with  its  beautiful  double  windows,  surrounded 
by  niches.  The  castle  commands  a  romantic  view.  The  opposite 
ruin  of  Oirsberg,  dating  from  the  13th  cent.,  rises  boldly  upon  a 
precipitous  cliff.  A  finger-post  at  the  entrance  to  the  St.  Ulrichs- 
Burg  indicates  the  way  to  (}/2  hr.)  Hohen-Rappoltstein ,  with  its 
lofty  tower ,  constructed  in  the  14th  cent,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
building,  and  affording  a  good  view.  —  From  Hohen-Rappoltstein 
to  Thannenkirch ,  about  174  nr- ,  see  p.  294.  —  The  best  route 
for  returning  to  Rappoltsweiler  is  through  the  Dusenbachthal 
(finger-post),  past  the  ruins  of  the  chapel  of  that  name  (end  of  15th 
cent.),  formerly  much  frequented  by  pilgrims,  to  the  (40  min.) 
Markirch  road  (p.  293),  and  by  it  to  (1  M.)  Rappoltsweiler. 

From  Rappoltsweiler  to  Katsbbsbbko  (6  M.).  The  road  leads 
through   vineyards   on  the  hillside   to  (l»/2  M.)  Hitnaweier,  containing   a 


296    Route  44.  KATSERSBERG.  The  Upper 

church  of  the  15th  cent.,  surrounded  by  *  wall  and  buttons.  To  the  B. 
we  observe  the  ancient  Zellenbtrg,  a  village  and  castle,  also  surrounded 
with  a  wall.    About  l-/i  M.  beyond  Hunaweier  we  reach  — 

Reichenweier  (Krone),  a  small  and  ancient  town  with  1900  inhab., 
containing  several  good  specimens  of  mediaeval  architecture,  and  sur- 
rounded by  vineyards  yielding  excellent  wine.  Its  walls  and  gates  are 
among  the  finest  works  of  the  kind  in  Alsace,  particularly  the  Oberthor, 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  town,  with  its  double  gateway.  Near  the  Oberthor 
is  a  fine  Fountain,  of  the  17th  century.  A  few  ruins  only  now  remain  of 
the  old  Chdteau  of  the  Counts  of  Wurtemberg-Mdmpelgart ,  to  whom  the 
town  was  subject.  It  was  built  in  the  16th  and  17th  centuries ,  and  a 
number  of  handsome  private  dwelling-houses,  in  the  Gothic  and  Renais- 
sance styles,  date  from  the  same  period. 

From  Reichenweier  to  Kaysersberg,  3  M.  (see  below). 


b.   The  Weiiethal.   The  Weiiee  and  Schwarze  See.    BeUberg. 

Omnibus  from  Benntoeier  to  (5  M.)  Kaysersberg,  thrice  daily \  to 
Schnierlach  and  Urbeis,  twice  daily  •>  from  Colmar  to  Kaysersberg,  Schnier- 
lach,  and  Urbeis,  thrice  daily.  —  From  Urbeis  footpath  to  the  Weisse  Set 
(2hrs.),  and  thence. to  the  Schlucht  (3-/a  hrs.). 

The  Vosges  differ  from  most  other  mountainous  regions  in  the  facili- 
ties which  they  afford  for  long  walks  along  the  crest  of  the  hills  without 
fatiguing  descents  into  intervening  valleys.  Such,  for  example,  are  the 
walks  from  the  Weisse  See  to  the  Schlucht,  from  the  Schlucht  to  the 
Hoheneck,  and  from  the  Hoheneck  to  the  Rheinkopf  (or  to  the  Kahle  Wasen, 
p.  302),  and  to  the  Oebweiler  Belch  en  (p.  304). 

From  the  railway-station  of  Bennweier  (p.  278)  a  road  leads 
into  the  valley  of  the  Weist,  a  tributary  of  the  Fecht  (p.  299). 

3^  M.  Sigolsheim  possesses  a  flue  late  -  Romanesque  church, 
with  interesting  sculptures  on  the  portal ;  the  tower  over  the  cross 
is  late-Gothic.  Near  Sigolsheim  is  the  so-called  'Red  Field',  where 
the  degenerate  sons  of  Louis  the  Pious  took  their  father  prisoner 
in  833,  after  they  had  seduced  his  army  from  its  allegiance  to  him. 
In  consequence  of  this  event  the  spot  is  sometimes  termed  the 
'Liigenfeld'  (i.e.  field  of  lies). 

4  M.  Kicnzheim  is  one  of  'three  towns  in  one  valley'  (the 
other  two  being  Kaysersberg  and  Ammerschweier) ,  mentioned  in 
a  verse  quoted  by  Merian  (1663)  as  characteristic  of  Alsace  along 
with  'three  castles  on  one  hill,  and  three  churches  in  one  church- 
yard'. 

On  the  road  from  Colmar  to  Kaysersberg,  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  Kienz- 
heim,  lies  the  above-mentioned  town  of  Ammerachweier,  with  3000  inhab. , 
and  a  number  of  interesting  buildings,  among  which  may  be  named  the 
late-Gothic  parish-church,  the  Gothic  Kaufhaus  (1538),  the  Renaissance 
Rathhaus  (lo52),  and  a  fountain  of  the  16th  century.  There  are  also  several 
handsome  dwelling-houses  of  similar  dates*,  and  the  walls  and  towers, 
of  the  16th  cent.,  particularly  the  Schelmenthurm  of  1536,  merit  attention. 
—  From  Ammerschweier  to  the  vDrei  Aehren'1  (p.  299)  in  2  hours. 

5  M.  Kaysersberg  f^Krone,  R.  1-2  m.,  good  wine  and  beer; 
Gibecitre"),  an  old  town  with  3100  inhab.  and  several  cotton- 
factories,  lies  at  the  point  where  the  picturesque  Weissthal  contracts, 
and  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Kaiserburg,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  imperial  Landvogt  of  Alsace  during  the  13th  and  14th 

*uries,  which  was  destroyed  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  (view 


Vo$gea.  ORBEY.  44.  Route.    297 

from  the  platform).  The  town  was  founded  by  Emp.  Frederick  II. 
of  the  Hohenstaufen  family ,  who  were  Dukes  of  Swahia  and  Al- 
sace and  were  solicitous  for  the  welfare  of  their  land.  The  famous 
preacher  John  Qeiler  (p.  270)  was  brought  up  here.  The  ancient 
walls ,  the  numerous  quaint  houses  of  the  15th  and  16th  cen- 
turies ,  and  the  old  fountains  (with  inscriptions)  combine  to  give 
the  town  a  particularly  pleasing  air  of  antiquity.  The  handsome 
Town  Hall,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  dates  from  1604.  The  spacious 
Church,  originally  constructed  in  the  12th  cent.,  but  subsequently 
altered,  possesses  a  fine  Romanesque  portal,  and  contains  a  Lamen- 
tation for  Christ  in  stone,  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  a  good  early  German 
high  *Altar-piece  (beginning  of  16th  century).  The  Sommerhaus 
(!/4  hr.) ,  on  a  hill  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Weiss ,  commands 
an  admirable  view  of  the  plain ;  the  Wetterkreuz,  somewhat  higher 
up,  is  another  good  point  of  view. 

The  road  crosses  the  Weiss  by  an  ancient  bridge  at  Kaysersberg, 
and  ascends  on  the  right  bank  (omnibus  several  times  a  day).  In 
about  4/2  nr«  we  reach  what  was  formerly  the  Clarissine  Nunnery 
of  Alspach,  now  a  private  house j  the  remains  of  the  Romanesque 
church  being  employed  as  barns.  About  3  M.  from  Kaysersberg 
the  road  to  Urbach  or  JFV/Jand  (*Inn),  which  is  visible  above  us,  turns 
to  the  right  across  the  Weiss  (ascent  of  the  Bressoir,  see  p.  293; 
from  Urbach  a  new  path  made  by  the  Vosges  Club). 

9^2  M.  Hachimette,  just  within  the  bounds  of  the  French-speak- 
ing district,  which  embraces  the  country  on  the  E.  slope  of  the 
mountains,  watered  by  the  Weiss  and  its  tributary  streams.  Cross- 
ing the  stream,  we  pass,  i/i  M.  farther  on,  on  the  left,  the  road  (in-? 
dicated  by  a  finger-post)  leading  to  Orbejr  or  Urbeis  (see  below), 
and  next  reach  (1/4  M.)  — 

10  M.  8ehnierlaehj  French  La  Poutroye  (ZurPost),  capital  of 
the  upper  part  of  the  Weissthal,  which  is  also  called  the  Schnier- 
lachthal,  situated  on  the  BSchine,  a  tributary  of  the  Weiss,  and  poss- 
essing considerable  cotton-factories.  The  road  proceeds  to  (I272  M. 
from  Bennweler)  Le  Bonhomme,  Oer.  DiedoUhausen  (Cheval  Blanc ; 
omnibus  to  Colmar,  and  to  Fraize  and  Gerardmdr),  and  then  ascends 
circuitously  to  the  Col  du  Bonhomme  (3084  ft.),  its  highest  point, 
and  the  boundary  of  Alsace.    Thence  to  St.  t>i€,  16  M. 

From  Hachimette  (see  above)  we  proceed  towards  the  S.W., 
up  the  left  bank  of  the  Weiss  for  2*/4  M.,  to  Orbey  or  Urbeis  (Croix 
dyOry  above  the  church),  a  scattered  mountain-village,  with  various 
industries,  and  a  new  church  conspicuous  far  and  wide.  (The  om- 
nibus from  Hachimette  to  Orbey  goes  to  Schnierlach  first,  and  then 
returns  to  Orbey.) 

From  Orbey  to  the  Drei  Aehrkn  (p.  299)  in  2»/2-3  hrs. ;  carriage-road 
vii  La  Baroche,  Ger.  Zell  (Kreuz,  by  the  church). 

Most  travellers  pay  a  visit  from  Orbey  to  the  two  mountain-lakes, 
the  Weisse  See  and  the  Schwarze  See,  which  lie  two  hours'  walk  to 


Route  U.  WEISSE  SEE.  The  Upper 

the  W.  of  it ,  and  nearly  on  the  summit  of  the  granite  ridge  which 
separates  Alsace  from  Lorraine.  The  road  to  the  Schwarze  See 
(li/ghr. ;  guide  advisable;  at  first  suitable  for  carriages)  passes  the 
old  Cistercian  abbey  of  Paris ,  the  extant  portions  of  which  have 
been  converted  into  an  hospital.  From  this  point  to  the  Schwarze 
See  the  ascent  is  rather  steep.  Thence  to  the  Weisse  See ,  by  a 
good  footpath  in  1  hr.  —  The  road  from  Orbey  to  the  Weisse  See 
is  preferable  (guide  to  the  Schlucht  4  m. ;  unnecessary  in  clear 
weather).  It  turns  to  the  right  in  the  village ;  at  a  point  about 
1/4  M.  beyond  the  'Neue  Hammerschmiede'  or  'Nouveau  Martinet1, 
where  the  path  divides,  we  ascend  to  the  left,  passing  several  farm- 
houses. We  may  cut  off  the  last  wide  bend  of  the  road  by  ascending 
direct  to  the  left  about  1^2  hr-  aft©*  leaving  Orbey. 

The  Weisse  See,  or  Lac  Blanc  (3450  ft. ;  Httel  des  Lacs,  R. 
iy2  m.),  which  derives  its  name  from  the  quartz  at  the  bottom, 
is  about  3  M.  in  circumference;  it  is  bounded  on  two  sides  by 
lofty  precipices ,  and  on  a  third  by  huge  masses  of  granite  piled 
together.  The  Schwarze  See,  or  Lac  Voir  (3140  ft.),  about  half  the 
size  of  the  other,  lies  only  3/i  M.  to  the  S.,  but  the  two  lakes  are 
separated  by  a  huge  wall  of  granite,  which  it  takes  a  full  hour  to 
cross.    The  discharge  of  the  two  lakes  forms  the  Weiss. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  lakes  rises  the  Beisberg  (3310  ft.),  the 
northernmost  and  highest  eminence  of  the  range  called  Les  Hauies 
Chaumes  (German,  rarely  used,  Vf  Hochfeldtn),  which  extends  to 
the  Schlucht  (about  6  M. ;  p.  301).  The  summit,  along  which  runs 
the  boundary  of  Alsace,  may  be  attained  from  the  Hdtel  des  Lacs 
in  3/4  hr.  by  a  new  footpath.  The  view  extends  over  the  Vosges, 
a  great  part  of  Lorraine ,  the  Black  Forest ,  and  the  entire  plain 
of  the  Rhine.  The  path  follows  the  crest  of  the  hill ,  and  for  a 
short  distance  keeps  on  the  German  side  of  the  boundary.  About 
1  hr.  after  leaving  the  hotel  we  get  a  view  of  the  Schwarze  See 
lying  below  us,  and  about  y4  M.  farther  a  survey  is  obtained 
to  the  S.  of  the  Munsterthal,  with  the  Swiss  Alps  in  the  distance. 
Those  who  wish  to  proceed  direct  to  the  Munsterthal  descend 
here  ,  turning  slightly  to  the  left  (via  Les  Hautes  Huttes ;  to  Sul- 
zern  2  hrs.).  We  turn  to  the  right  and  cross  the  crest,  near  a  large 
turf-cutting  and  the  boundary  -  stone  No.  2778.  The  path  now 
keeps  to  French  territory  and  affords  a  survey  of  .the  French  Vosges, 
with  a  view  of  St.  Die'  at  our  backs. 

After  a  full  y2  nr-  we  reach  a  low  wood  of  beech  and  pine, 
near  the  boundary-stone  2790.  We  continue  to  follow  the  boun- 
dary-stones to  No.  2795,  about  50  paces  to  the  left  of  which  we 
obtain  a  view  of  the  Daaren-See,  or  Lac  Vert  (200  ft.  deep  at 
one  place),  a  small  mountain-lake  like  those  mentioned  above,  but 
more  picturesque,  being  enclosed  by  pines,  and  bounded  on  three 
sides  by  precipitous  rocky  banks.  To  the  right  is  a  ravine.  We 
now  retrace  our  steps  to  the  boundary  -  stone  2795,  turn  to  the 


Yotges.  TURKHEIM.  44.  Route,     299 

right  in  order  to  avoid  the  ravine  just  mentioned,  proceed  as  far  as 
stone  No.  2796,  and  then  turn  a  little  to  the  left.  The  path  now 
divides ;  we  follow  that  which  enters  the  wood  to  the  left  on  the 
French  side,  emerging  from  it  at  stone  No.  2803  (left).  We  pro- 
ceed along  the  houndary-stones  to  No.  2817,  where  we  turn  to  the 
right  and  descend  to  the  Schlucht  (at  stone  No.  2832).  The 
Schlucht,  seep.  301. 

c.    From  Colmar  to  Munster.    The  Schlucht.    Metseral. 

12  M.  Railway  to  Munster  in  1  hr. ;  fares  i  m.  60,  1  m.  10,  65  pf. 

To  the  W.  of  Colmar  (p.  278)  opens  the  fertile  *Mttn8tertlial, 
formerly  called  the  St.  Gregorienthal ,  watered  by  the  Fecht,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  frequented  valleys  of  the  Vosges.  Its  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  Protestants,  are  very  industrious, 
carrying  on  manufactures  of  various  kinds  in  the  valley  itself ,  and 
cattle-farming  on  the  neighbouring  hills.  The  'Munster  cheese1 
resembles  the  highly  esteemed  Camembert. 

The  line  skirts  the  Logelbach,  an  old  canal,  conducted  from  the 
Fecht  at  Tiirkheim,  on  which  numerous  cotton  -  manufactories 
are  situated.  2  M.  Logelbach,  with  a  small  modern-Gothic  church. 
In- the  plain  between  Colmar  and  Tiirkheim,  on  5th  Jan.,  1675, 
Turenne  surprised  and  signally  defeated  the  German  imperial 
army,  which  had  gone  into  winter-quarters  here.  This  decisive 
engagement  drove  the  Germans  across  the  Rhine  and  effectually 
expelled  them  from  Alsace. 

33/4  M.  TvLr1sheim(*H6telPetitdemangc),  an  old  town  still  almost 
entirely  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  One  of  the  best  wines  of 
Alsace  is  yielded  by  the  neighbouring  vineyards. 

A  good  road  leads  from  Tiirkheim  in  long  windings  through  beau- 
tiful pine  wood,  to  the  (6  M.)  Drei  Aehren,  French  Notre  Dame  des  Trois 
Epis,  German  Unsere  Lithe  Frau  zu  den  drei  Aehren  (1909  ft.  above  sea-level ; 
*H6tel  des  Trois  Epis,  'pension'1  with  wine  and  room  from  30  m.  per  week, 
without  room  24  m. \  pine-cone  and  other  baths,  omnibus  to  Tiirk- 
heim station;  Hdlel  des  Trois  Rois;  Notre  Dame,  unpretending),  a  village 
and  resort  of  pilgrims ,  on  the  hill  to  the  W.  of  Tiirkheim.  [The  pe- 
destrian may  avoid  the  windings  of  the  road  by  attending  to  the  following 
directions :  at  the  3rd  path,  ly#  M.  from  Tiirkheim,  ascend  to  the  right  •,  after 
regaining  the  road,  follow  it  for  V*M->  then  take  a  footpath  to  the  left, 
joining  the  road  once  more;  follow  it  for  another  V*  M..  then  again  di- 
verge to  the  right;  by  this  route  the  village  is  reached  in  1  hr.  from  Tiirk- 
heim.] Its  picturesque  situation  and  salubrious  air  have  rendered  this  spot 
a  favourite  summer-resort.  The  village  consists  of  an  unpretending  Gothic 
church ,  containing  a  number  of  votive  tablets,  with  a  few  houses  adja- 
cent The  *View  embraces  the  lower  Miinsterthal  towards  the  S.,  the  E. 
slopes  of  the  Vosges,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest, 
and  the  distant  Alps  to  the  S.  If  the  last  are  very  distinct,  rain  may 
generally  be  expected.  —  A  more  extensive  view,  especially  towards  the 
N.,  is  gained  from  the  "Gala  (2401  ft.),  a  rocky  height  to  the  K.E.,  which 
may  be  ascended  in  Va  hr.  —  The  Orosse  Hohenack  (3215  ft.),  1  hr.  S.W.  of 
Drei  Aehren,  also  commands  a  pleasing  view,  with  the  Miinsterthal  in 
the  foreground,  and  opposite,  on  the  ».,  the  Kleine  Hohenack  (3071  ft.), 
crowned  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  restored  in  the  13th  cent,  and  de- 
stroyed in  1666.     To  the  lakes  (p.  298),  passing  between  the  two  Hohen- 


300    Route  44.  MUNSTER.  The  Upper 

acks,  4-41/*  hours.  From  Drei  Aehren  to  Ammerschweier  !»/*  hr.,  to 
Orbey  2»/«  hrs. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  1  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  stat.  Turkheim, 
lies  the  village  of  Winzenheim  (Storch),  from  which  a  visit  may  be  paid 
to  the  ruins  of  Hohenlandsberg  and  Plixburg.  A  new  footpath,  not  to 
be  mistaken  (guide-posts),  issuing  from  the  W.  end  of  the  village,  leads 
to  the  top  in  1  hour.  The  ruin  of  Hohenlandsberg  (2073  ft.)  consists  of 
little  more  than  the  outer  walls  of  an  extensive  castle,  which  was  destroyed 
by  the  French  in  1635.  The  summit  of  the  walls  commands  an  extensive 
view.  In  returning  we  may  either  proceed  by  Plixburf  (also  called 
Nixbwrg  by  the  natives),  or  by  the  direct  and  easy  path  of  the  Vosges 
Club  to  stat.  Walbach  (see  below),  or,  taking  the  direction  indicated  by 
the  finger-post  on  the  8.  slope  of  the  Hohenlandsberg,  pass  almost  entirely 
through  wood  to  (3  M.)  the  ruin  of  Drei-Exen,  and  thence  by  the  (!»/»  M.) 
ruins  of  the  Convent  of  Harbach  to  (2*/2  M.)  the  station  of  HerlUheim 
(p.  280).   In  clear  weather  the  Swiss  Alps  are  visible  from  Drei-Bxen. 

674  M.  Walbach.  -8M,  Weier  im  Thai  (*Nouvelle  Auberge, 
at  the  station),  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  which  is  a  small  bath- 
establishment  near  the  ancient  town  of  Sulzbach.  (From  Sulzbach 
a  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  over  the  mountains  to  Sulzmatt, 
3  hrs. ,  see  p.  280 ;  another  by  Wasserburg  to  the  Kahle  Wasen, 
p.  302 ,  also  3  hrs.)  The  village  of  Weier  im  Thai,  with  a  con- 
spicuous new  church,  lies  1  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  and  is  com- 
manded by  the  pilgrimage-chapel  of  Hciligkreuz.  —  10  M.  Guns- 
bach,  with  a  large  cotton-factory,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schlosswald 
(see  below).    The  train  then  crosses  the  Fecht  to  — 

12  M.  Monster  (*Storch,  R.  1-2  m. ,  S.  2  m.;  Stadt  Strass- 
burg,  well  spoken  of),  a  manufacturing  town  with  5100  inhab.,  sit- 
uated at  the  base  of  the  Monchsberg,  at  the  union  of  the  KUinthal 
with  the  Qro88thal,  the  latter  of  which  is  watered  by  the  Fecht.  The 
place  owes  its  origin  to  a  Benedictine  abbey  founded  here  by  King 
Ohilderic  about  660,  the  buildings  of  which,  however,  have  en- 
tirely disappeared  with  the  exception  of  a  single  tower.  In  the 
middle  ages  Miinster  was  a  free  town  of  the  German  Empire.  Nu- 
merous modern  buildings,  among  which  the  handsome  new  Roman- 
esque church  is  conspicuous,  testify  to  the  prosperity  of  the  town. 

A  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  from  Miinster  to  the  *8ehloaa- 
wald,  V/t  M.  to  the  E.,  an  eminence  laid  out  in  pleasure-grounds,  and 
crowned  by  the  ruin  of  Schwarzenburg.  It  is  the  property  of  the  Hart- 
mann  family,  and  generally  open  to  the  public.    *View. 

The  excellent  *Road  from  Monster  through  thb  Sohlucht 
(HV2  M.)  to  Gbrardmbr,  finished  in  1860,  ascends  the  Klein- 
thai  towards  the  W.  At  (2  M.)  Stoasweier  it  turns  towards  the 
N.  to  (IV4  M.)  Sulzern,  and  ascends  the  hill  in  a  long  curve. 
At  the  N.  angle  of  this  bend  is  a  group  of  houses  belonging  to 
the  parish  of  Sulzern,  and  named  Ins  el.  (Thence  to  Orbey,  9  M.f 
p.  297;  to  the  Daaren-See,  6  M.,  p.  298;  comp.  Map.)  The  road 
continues  to  ascend  through  pleasant  wood.  As  we  approach  the 
head  of  the  pass  the  scenery  becomes  grander.  The  whole  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  road  is  cut  through  the  granite  rocks,  and  a  few 
hundred  paces  below  the  summit  it  passes  through  a  tunnel.  The 
^nt  from  Miinster  occupies  3-3y2  hrs. ,  the  descent  2y2-3  hrs. 


Vosges.  HOHENECK.  44.  Route.    301 

Pbdb8TBIan8  turn  to  the  left  at  Stossweier  f see  above) ,  follow 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream  to  Schmclzwascn  (opposite  which,  on 
the  left  bank,  lies  Ampfersbach),  and  then  ascend  by  the  new  path 
of  the  Yosges  Club ,  which  regains  the  road  about  1  M.  below  the 
Schlncht.  —  (The  Schlucht  may  also  be  reached  via  the  Hoheneck ; 
comp.  the  Map.) 

The  *Schlucht,  French  Col  de  la  Schlucht  (4100  ft.) ,  a  pictur- 
esque mountain-pass,  surrounded  by  precipitous  rocks  and  beau- 
tiful pine-forest,  lies  between  the  Montabcc  (4117  ft.)  on  the 
N.  and  the  Altenberg  (4124  ft.)  on  the  S.,  two  heights  of  the 
Central  Vosges  Mts.,  which,  before  the  construction  of  the  road, 
were  crossed  by  a  footpath  only.  On  the  summit  of  the  pass,  which 
forms  the  boundary  between  Germany  and  France,  are  situated 
several  houses ,  one  of  which,  built  In  the  form  of  a  Swiss  chalet, 
is  now  an  inn  (• Chalet  Hartmann,  R.  %  D.  3  fr.,  B.  75,  A.  50  c). 

The  *  Hoheneck  (4480  ft),  the  highest  of  the  Vosges  Mts.  after  the 
Gebweiler  Belchen  (p.  904),  and  more  centrally  situated,  affords  a  beauti- 
ful and  extensive  view.  The  route  from  the  Schlucht  to  the  (1  hr.)  sum- 
mit cannot  be  mistaken  in  clear  weather,  if  we  follow  the  finger-posts 
and  boundary-stones.  We  turn  to  the  left  and  begin  the  ascent  at  the 
back  of  the  stable  of  the  inn.  The  view  extends  far  beyond  the  Vosges 
Mts.,  embracing  the  plain  of  the  Rhine  as  far  as  the  Black  Forest,  the 
Jura  and  the  Alps  towards  the  S. ,  and  the  French  Department  of  the 
Vosges  towards  the  W.  In  the  foreground  towards  the  E.  is  the  beauti- 
ful Munsterthal ,  towards  the  W.  the  valley  of  Gerardmer  with  the  Re- 
tournemer  and  Longemer  lakes.  The  Hoheneck  is  also  of  great  interest 
to  the  botanist.  On  the  summit  stand  the  boundary-stone  No.  2868,  and  a 
finger-post  pointing  to  the  Schlucht  on  the  N.W.  and  the  Fischbadle  on 
the  E.  Proceeding  in  the  latter  direction  we  reach  by  a  stony  path  (1V«M.) 
a  finger-post  indicating  the  way  (left)  to  Minister,  and  i/s  M.  farther  on 
another  pointing  towards  the  left  to  Muhlbach  (and  Metzeral,  see  below), 
and  towards  the  right  to  (3  M.)  the  Fischbadle.  The  Fischbadle  is  a 
small  lake,  well  stocked  with  trout,  surrounded  by  wild  rocks,  probably 
the  moraine  of  an  "ancient  glacier  once  occupying  the  Wolmsathal.  From 
the  Fischbadle  to  Metzeral  IV2  hour. 

Those  who  can  spare  the  time  should  not  fail  to  extend  their  excur- 
sion westwards  of  the  Schlucht,  through  the  finest  part  of  the  French 
Vosges,  to  GfeBARDMER  (from  the  Schlucht  and  back,  1  day).  The  road  is 
followed  to  (I74  M.)  the  Collet,  where  the  forest-path  to  the  left  is  taken. 
A  few  hundred  paces  farther,  by  the  finger-post  ('Chemin  des  Dames'*),  we 
turn  to  the  right,  and  proceed  by  a  good  pathway  through  the  wood, 
where  we  hear  the  roaring  of  the  Vologne ,  a  torrent  which  rises  on  the 
Hoheneck.  In  45  min.  we  reach  the  Refoumemer ,  a  small  lake ,  with  a 
forester's  house  on  its  bank  (Inn).  The  route  next  follows  the  Vologne, 
and  then  skirts  the  Longemer  lake,  I1/4  hr.  Bridge  over  the  Vologne, 
which  here  forms  the  far-resounding  fall  of  Baut  des  Cures.  40  min.  Ge- 
rardmer (2130  ft. ;  *H6tel  de  la  Poste ;  *H6tel  des  Vosges) ,  charmingly 
situated  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  and  much  frequented  by  French 
visitors.  —  In  returning,  the  road  which  leads  high  above  the  lake  of  Lon- 
gemer should  be  chosen.  The  Roche  du  Diable ,  to  the  right ,  near  the 
tunnel,  commands  a  delightful  view  of  the  two  upper  lakes.  To  the 
Schlucht,  12  M. 

Those  who  pass  the  night  at  Ge*rardmer  should  visit  the  wild  ValUe 
de  Granges,  the  way  to  which  is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  passed  in  the 
woods  near  Gerardmer  in  coming  from  the  Schlucht.  About  ll/«  M.  above 
the  mouth  of  the  valley  is  the  glaciere,  or  ice-cavern,  of  Kertoff.  —  A  fine 
evening  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  rowing  on  the  lake.  —  An  imposing 
excursion  may  be  taken  from  Gerardmer  to  the  Wildenstein  (5  hrs.  •,  p.  305) 


302    Route  44.  METZERAL.  The  Upper 

vi&  La  Bresse  (Soleil)  and  the  Col  de  Bramonl,  or  to  Oderen  over  the 
Col  du  Ventron  (7  hrs. ;  p.  305). 

The  road  from  Miinster  into  the  Grossthax  (to  Metzeral, 
33/4  M.,  omnibus  twice  daily)  ascends  towards  the  S.W.  and  passes 
Luttenbach  (ascent  of  the  Kahle  Wasen ,  see  below) ,  BreUehbach. 
and  MufUbach ,  three  pretty  and  pleasantly-situated  villages ,  with 
cotton -factories.  The  inhabitants  of  the  Grossthal,  most  of  whom  are 
Protestants,  retain  several  old  peculiarities  of  manner  and  costume. 

From  Luttenbach  a  carriage-road,  the  windings  of  which  may  be 
avoided  by  the  pedestrian,  leads  through  wood  to  the  (6  M.)  MelkerhiliU 
(refreshments).  A  new  footpath,  constructed  by  the  Vosgea  Club,  ascends 
in  40  min.  from  the  hut  to  the  top  of  the  Kahle  Wasen,  or  Kleine  Belchen 
(4180  ft.),  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Munsterthal  and  the  Lauchthal. 
In  June  the  mountain  is  covered  with  a  carpet  of  Vosges  violets  (Viola 
elegans).    The  descent  may  be  made  by  Lintthal  to  QebweiUr  (see  below). 

Metiers!  (*Ooldene  Sonne,  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Fecht, 
unpretending),  another  small  village  with  several  cotton-factories, 
lies  at  the  union  of  the  valleys  of  the  two  streams  which  combine 
to  form  the  Fecht. 

Beautiful  walk  from  Metzeral  to  Sondernaeh,  and  then  through  fine 
woods,  past  the  forester's  house  of  Querben,  to  the  crest  of  the  mountains 


{Lauchenkopf  or  Wissorl ,  4520  ft. ;  the  walk  may  be  continued  along  the 
ridge  to  the  Gebweiler  Belchen,  p.  904).  Near  the  chalet  of  Oberlavchen 
(refreshments)  are  the  cascades  of  the  Lauch.   the  finest  in  the   German 


^nsirceiuucuipj    arc    tuc    bapbauoo    ui     «uc    x/ww«,r* ,      »uc   u"«j»    ***    vuc     ucriuau 

Vosges,  recently  made  accessible.  —  From  Oberlauchen  to  the  forester's 
house  of  Nicderlauchen  (*Inn),  •/«  hr-  i  thence  to  Gebweiler,  3  hours. 

From  Metzeral  to  Wildenstein  (p.  906),  in  4  hrs.,  a  very  interesting 
route.  The  road  turns  to  the  right  opposite  the  inn,  and  continues  to 
follow  the  valley  of  the  Fecht.  After  1  M.  the  road  to  the  above-men- 
tioned Fischbadle  diverges  to  the  right  across  a  bridge.  At  (2  M.)  Mittlach 
the  road  divides  (guide  beyond  this  desirable,  2-2V2m. ;  the  whole  route, 
however,  is  provided  with  finger-posts);  we  turn  to  the  left  before  the 
bridge,  and  a  little  farther  on  cross  a  bridge  to  the  left  bank  of  the  Fecht, 
and  proceed  to  (B/4  M.)  the  forester's  house  of  Herrenberg  (refreshments). 
Immediately  beyond  this  the  road  is  quitted  by  a  woeden  pathway,  used 
for  the  timber-traffic  (see  p.  291),  which  ascends  in  numerous  windings 
through  the  wood  for  nearly  2  hours.  On  the  Herrenberger  Wasen  at  the 
top  is  a  large  chalet.  From  here  to  Wildenstein  (guide-post)  1  hr. ;  path 
rugged  and  often  steep. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Rheinkopf  may  be  agreeably  combined  with  the 
above  excursion  by  making  a  digression  of  l-iy«  hour.  From  the  chalet 
on  the  Herrenberger  Wasen  we  follow  the  road  to  Wildenstein  for  V2  M., 
and  then  ascend  to  the  right,  keeping  close  to  the  ditch.  After  a  gentle 
ascent  of  about  V2  hr.  we  attain  the  summit  of  a  rounded  eminence, 
commanding  a  view  over  the  St  Amarinthal.  From  this  point  we  reach 
the  small  peak  of  the  Kheinkopf  (4924  ft.),  to  the  N.,  in  another  »/4  hour. 
Extensive  *View,  particularly  of  the  Munsterthal. 

d.  From  Bollweiler  to  Gebweiler. 

4Vz  M.  Railway  in  25  min.  \  fares  65,  45,  90  pf. 

Bollweiler,  see  p.  280.  The  line  traverses  a  fertile  district.  — 
3  M.  Sulz,  a  town  of  5000  inhab.,  with  silk-factories.  It  contains 
an  unpretending  but  elegant  parish-church ,  chiefly  in  the  Gothic 
style,  with  a  lofty  tower  above  the  cross,  begun  in  1278,  and  al- 
tered in  the  14th  and  15th  centuries.  To  the  left  near  Gebweiler 
are  several  modern  houses  in  the  Gothic  style. 


Vosges.  GEBWEILER.  44.  Route.     303 

4V2  M-  Gebweiler  (*Zum  Engel ,  at  the  station ;  Ooldene  Ka- 
nont;  Cafe  Stocklin),  the  capital  of  a  district,  with  11,500  inhab., 
situated  at  the  entrance  to  the  Lauchthal,  is  an  important  manu- 
facturing place,  the  products  of  which  are  cotton  goods,  cloth, 
sugar,  and  machinery.  The  road  from  the  station  leads  straight  to 
the  Neue  Kirche ,  a  handsome  building  in  the  Renaissance  style  of 
the  18th  cent. ,  erected  in  1759  by  the  Prince- Abbots  of  Murbach, 
when  they  transferred  their  residence  to  Gebweiler.  The  main 
street  leads  to  the  right  past  the  late -Gothic  Rathhaus  to  the 
*Pansh  Church  (St.  Lcgerius),  a  fine  example  of  the  transition-style, 
begun  in  1182,  and  lately  restored.  It  possesses  double  aisles,  a 
transept ,  three  towers  of  unequal  height ,  and  a  fine  Romanesque 
porch  occupying  the  whole  breadth  of  the  W.  front.  The  choir  is 
Gothic.  The  sculptures  on  the  W.  central  portal  merit  inspection. 
One  of  the  best  wines  of  Alsace  is  produced  near  Gebweiler. 

About  l1/*  M.  to  the  E.  of  Gebweiler  lie  the  scanty  remains  of  the 
old  Antonite  monastery  of  Isenheim,  the  source  of  a  number  of  the  most  im- 
portant works  of  art  in  the  Museum  of  Colmar  (see  p.  279). 

Excursion  to  Murbach.  The  road  ascends  the  pretty  Lauchthal, 
passing  the  foot  of  the  ruin  of  Hvgttein,  to  the  (!'/♦  M.  from  the 
parish  -  church)  entrance  of  the  small  town  of  BUM.  The  side-valley 
of  the  Rothbach  is  now  entered  on  the  left,  and  the  broad  road  follow- 
ed to  the  (IV2M.)  picturesquely -situated  Romanesque  'Abbey  Church  of 
Murbach,  surrounded  by  a  few  houses.  This  Benedictine  Abbey,  founded 
by  Duke  Eberhard  of  Swabia  in  727,  became  one  of  the  most  powerful  on 
.the  Upper  Rhine,  and  possessed  extensive  domains,  in  which  three  towns 
(including  Gebweiler)  and  thirty  villages  were  situated.  It  was  presided 
over  by  an  abbot  of  princely  rank,  who  bore  as  his  device  a  black  grey- 
hound ('haughty  as  the  Murbach  hound'  was  a  mediaeval  saying).  The 
church,  of  which  the  nave  has  disappeared,  was  consecrated  in  1139,  and 
ranks,  like  that  of  Maursmunster  (p.  286),  as  one  of  the  oldest  and  finest 
Romanesque  buildings  in  Alsace.  The  S.  transept  contains  a  handsome 
Gothic  tombstone  of  the  13th  century.  The  house  to  the  left,  about 
50  paces  beyond  the  archway  across  the  road,  with  its  ground-floor  borne 
by  Romanesque  columns,  is  an  inn,  a  boy  from  which  may  be  engaged  as 
a  guide  to  the  summit  of  the  Gebweiler  Belchen  (lV2-2m.).    Comp.  p.  304. 

e.  From  Mulhausen  to  Wesserling. 

2OV2  M.  Railway  in  18A  hr.  \  fares  2  m.  80,  1  m.  90,  1  m.  20  pf. 

Mulhausen,  see  p.  281.  This  railway  connects  the  main  line 
with  the  important  manufacturing  places  in  the  *8t.  Amarinthal, 
the  industrious  valley  of  the  Thur,  and  opens  up  to  visitors  an 
exceedingly  picturesque  tract  of  country.  —  2  M.  Dornoch ;  3  M. 
Lutterbach ,  see  p.  281 ;  8%  M.  Sennheim ,  Fr.  Cernay  (Zwei 
Schlussel),  where  a  branch -line  diverges  to  Gewenheim  and 
Sentheim  (see  p.  305). 

12  M.  Thann  (Kaiser ;  Zwei  Schlussel ;  Cafis  Beck  and  Engel),  the 
chief  town  of  the  district,  with  7500 inhab.,  and  thriving  cotton  and 
silk-factories,  is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  narrow 
valley  of  the  Thur,  the  mountains  enclosing  which  are  covered  with 
wood  on  their  upper,  and  vineyards  on  their  lower  slopes.  The 
*Church  of  St.  Theobald,  begun  in  1351,  the  choir  of  which  is  first 


304     Route  44.  WESSERLING.  The  Upper 

visible  in  approaching  from  the  station,  is  a  gem  of  Gothic  architec- 
ture. Its  bold  and  elegant  open  tower,  begun  in  1430  and  com- 
pleted in  1516  by  Meister  Remigins  Walch  (inscription  on  the  spire 
at  the  top),  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  later  Gothic,  surpass- 
ing even  the  tower  at  Strassburg.  The  handsome  double  portal  on 
the  W.  side  also  deserves  attention.  The  interior  is  adorned  with 
carved  work  of  the  16th  cent.,  Gothic  stained-glass .  and  a  fine 
painting ,  of  the  school  of  Martin  Schongauer,  of  Christ  amid  se- 
veral apostles. —  The  church  is  seen  to  advantage  from  the  Engclburg, 
a  castle  crowning  an  eminence  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Thur  (which 
is  crossed  by  two  bridges),  and  commanding  the  town  and  entrance  to 
the  valley.  (The  route  to  the  castle  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
main  street,  opposite  the  church.)  The  overthrown  tower  of  the 
castle,  which  was  destroyed  by  Turenne  in  1674,  somewhat  re- 
sembles a  huge  cask.  The  district  to  the  E.  of  the  Engelburg 
yields  the  'Rangener  wine1,  which  is  mentioned  by  the  German 
historian  Munster  as  early  as  1550.  The  Staufen,  ll/2  M.  from 
Thann,  is  a  fine  point  of  view. 

14Y2  M.  Bitschweiler,  1572  M.  Weiler,  two  industrious  villages, 
with  modern  Gothic  churches. 

The  Gebweiler  Belchen  is  best  ascended  from  Weiler.  The  road 
is  followed  to  (3  M.)  Ooldbaeh  (refreshments  at  the  maire's,  where  a  boy 
should  be  engaged  as  a  guide,  iVa-2  m.);  thence  to  a  Chalet  (poor  and 
dear)  in  1  hr.,  and  in  1  hr.  more  to  the  summit.  The  Gebweiler,  or  Sulzer 
Belchen,  French  Ballon  de  Soultz  (4677  ft),  the  highest  of  the  Vosges 
Mts.,  affords  an  extensive  panorama,  embracing  the  Black  Forest,  the 
Jura,  and  the  Alps.  At  the  summit  is  a  stone  refuge-hut  erected  by  the 
Vosges  Club  (Inn  in  summer).  About  */a  hr.  below  the  summit  lies  a 
small  lake,  whence  a  good  path  leads  by  the  Roll  (Inn  opposite  the  falls 
of  the  Seebach)  to  the  Lauchthal  (p.  303).  Descent  to  Mu  roach,  see  p.  903. 
—  The  Gebweiler  Belchen  is  also  often  ascended  from  St.  Amarin  (see 
below)  by  a  steep  path  to  (1  hr.)  Geishausen,  and  then  by  a  better  one, 
passing  the  Eager  Hiltte,  to  the  (2!/2  hrs.)  top.  The  ascent  may  also  be 
made  from  Moosch  (see  below). 

The  line  now  skirts  the  left  bank  of  the  stream.  17*/2M. 
Moosch.  I8V2  M.  St.  Amarin  (Goldener  Lowe),  one  of  the  most 
ancient  places  in  the  valley,  to  which  it  has  given  its  name.  Since 
its  destruction  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  St.  Amarin  has  been 
a  place§  of  no  importance.    Then  — 

20y2  M.  Wesserling  (?H6tel  de  Wesserling ,  near  the  station, 
R.  172-2y2,  D.  272  m.),  a  place  of  modern  origin,  built  partly  on 
what  was  once  the  moraine  of  a  huge  glacier,  with  a  colony  "of  ex- 
tensive cotton  -  factories ,  numerous  pretty  villas,  and  well-kept 
pleasure-grounds  (between  the  station  and  the  hotel,  beyond  the 
bridge).  It  is  a  suitable  spot  for  a  prolonged  stay.  Carriage  to 
Wildenstein  in  iy4  hr.,  8  m. 

On  the  W.  slope  of  the  range  separating  Alsace  from  Lorraine,  immed- 
iately beyond  the  Col  de  Bussang,  which  is  traversed  by  the  road  to 
Bemiremont,  5  M.  from  Wesserling,  the  Moselle  takes  its  rise.  The  road 
leads  through  (2*/2  M)  the  frontier-village  of  Urbis  (Hotel  de  la  Couronne). 
On  the  top  is  a  tunnel  about  300  paces  in  length,  with  a  boundary-stone 
in  the  middle,  just  beyond  which  is  the  source  of  the  river.  —  To  the 


Vosget.  WILDENSTEIN.  44.  Route.     306 

S.E.  of  Urbis  lie  Storkensauen  and  (l1/*  M.)  Mollau ,  where  a  dish  of  fine 
trout  may  be  enjoyed  at  the  ton. 

From  Websbrlino  to  Wildbnstbin,  7  M.,  a  pleasant  route  for 
pedestrians.  A  good  road  ascends  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Thur, 
passing  through  the  thriving  villages  of  Felleringen  (Ettrsch,  good 
cuisine),  Oderen  (Goldener  Lowe ;  Goldener  Adler),  and  (24/2  M.) 
Kruth,  chiefly  inhabited  by  the  operatives  of  the  Wesserling  factories. 

About  1^4  M.  beyond  Krfith,  and  the  same  distance  below  Wilden- 
stein, suddenly  rises  the  Sehlossberg ,  an  isolated  and  precipitous 
wooded  eminence ,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  stand  the  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Wildenstein.  This  stronghold  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Abbey  of  Murhach  (p.  303),  by  which  it  was  surrendered  during  the 
Thirty  Years'  Wax  to  Marshal  Gaumont  de  la  Force.  In  1634  it  was 
betrayed  to  the  troops  of  Lorraine,  and  ten  years  later  was  taken  and 
destroyed  by  General  v.  Erlach,  the  commander  of  the  Weimar  troops. 

Wildenstein  (Sonne),  the  chief  place  in  the  St.  Amarinthal,  is 
almost  entirely  shut  in  by  rocky  heights.  About  1  hr.  above  the 
village,  is  the  Wildewte'mer  OUuhutte.  —  From  Wildenstein  (with 
guide)  across  the  Rothenbach  or  theHerrenberg  to  Metzeral,  41/2nr8-> 
see  p.  302. 

From  Sbnnhbim  to  Sbnthbim,  9  M.  The  stations  on  the  branch- 
line  mentioned  at  p.  300  (1  hr. ;  fares  1  m.  20,  80,  45  pfV)  are 
(3  M.)  Aspachy  (5  M.)  Burnhaupt,  (7  M.)  Gewenheim,  and  (9  M.) 
Sentheim. 

From  Sentheim  omnibus  four  times  daily  to  (4M.)  Maamunster, 
Fr.  Massevaux  (* Adler),  an  old  town  with  3400inhab.,  the  principal 
place  in  the  Dollerthal.  This  picturesque  valley,  with  its  impos- 
ing ramifications,  merits  the  attention  of  tourists  (good  inns). 

Farther  up  lie  Niederbruek ,  Kirchberg ,  Wegscheid,  and  (4  M.) 
Oberbruck  (omnibus  thus  far  twice  daily),  the  best  starting-point  for 
the  ascent  of  the  Walsche  Belchen,  or  Ballon  d'AUaee  (4080  ft.). 
The  route  ascends  the  Dollerthal  to  (40  min.)  Sewen  (*Inn  at  the 
first  house  on  the  right),  then  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  valley, 
passes  the  farms  of  Kleinlangenberg  and  Grosslangenberg,  and  in 
2^2  nr*.  reaches  the  *Inn  (unpretending),  which  lies  10  min.  below 
the  top.  Another  route  passes  the  Sewemee  and  ascends  the  See- 
bachthal,  in  which*are  numerous  traces  of  ancient  glaciers.  The 
view  from  the  granite  summit  of  the  Belchen  is  magnificent,  espe- 
cially in  the  direction  of  Belfort;  to  the  N.W.  it  is  somewhat  lim- 
ited by  the  Ballon  de  Servanee.  The  boundary  between  France 
and  Alsace  is  about  10  min.  from  the  top.  We  may  return  by  the 
picturesque  road  leading  past  St.  Maurice,  Bussang,  and  the  Source 
of  the  Moselle  (p.  304)  to  Wesserling. 

The  following  excursions  may  also  be  made  from  Oberbruck:  by 
(40  min.)  Rimbach,  with  guide,  to  the  Stem-See  and  the  Rothe  Wcuen  or 
Gresson  (4098  ft.;  fine  view),  and  then  to  Storkensauen  and  Wesserling 
(p.  304;  4  hw.);  or  from  Rimbach  to  the  top  of  the  Rossberg  (view),  with 
descent  to  Moosch  (p.  304)  or  Thann  (p.  303). 

Baedskkk's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  20 


306 

45.  From  Heidelberg  to  Baden. 

66V1  M.  Railway  in  2-3  hrs.  (fares  7  m.  66,  5  m.  15,  3  m.  20  pf.). 
Carriage*  generally  changed  at  Oos,  the  Junction  for  Baden. 

Heidelberg,  see  p.  232.  9  M.  Wiesloch  (the  village  3/4  M.  from 
the  line).  Before  ie&ching  Langenbrucken,  we  pass,  on  the  right, 
Kislau,  formerly  a  hunting-seat  of  the  Prince-Bishops  of  Speyer, 
and  now  a  penitentiary  for  women.  15  M.  Langenbrucken  (Oehs; 
Sonne),  a  small  village  with  sulphur-baths. 

22  M.  Brachial  (*Badischer  hof  or  Post,  in  the  town,  R.  I1/?™.; 
*H6tel  Keller,  *Rose,  near  the  station ;  *Bail.  Restaur.),  a  town  with 
11,300  inhab.,  was  formerly,  the  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  Speyer, 
whose  Schloss,  a  handsome  Rococo  structure  of  the  beginning  of 
last  century,  elegantly  fitted  up  and  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Zick, 
merits  a  visit.  Opposite  the  Schloss,  which  stands  in  a  pretty  gar- 
den, is  a  large  Reservoir  built  in  the  form  of  a  small  chateau.  The 
castellated  building  to  the  left  of  the  line  is  a  Prison.  The  Church 
of  St.  Peter  contains  the  burial-vault  of  the  last  bishops.  The  War 
Monument,  commemorating  the  campaign  of  1870-71,  is  in  the  Ger- 
man Renaissance  style.  —  Bruchsal  is  the  junction  for  the  Wurtem- 
berg  line ;  comp.  Baedeker's  Southern  Germany, 

From  Bbughsal  to  Gbbmebsheim,  16  H.,  railway  in  */«-l  hr.  (fares 
2  m.  70,  lm.  80,  1  m.  15  pf.).  Stations:  2»/«  M.  CarUdorf;  5»/iM.  Graben- 
Neudorfip.  243);  »  M.  HUttenheim;  11  M.  Philippsburg  (see  p.  243)  \  13  M. 
Rheinsheim.  The  train  then  crosses  the  Rhine.  16  M.  Germersheim,  see  p.  260. 

On  the  Michaelsberg ,  near  (24  y2  M.)  Unter-Orombach,  stands 
the  old  Michaels-Capelle.  On  an  eminence  near  (26*/4  M.)  Wein- 
garten  rises  the  tower  of  the  ruin  of  Schmalenstein. 

31  M.  Durlaeh  (Karlsburg) ,  a  small  town  of  7300  inhab., 
the  capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Baden-Durlach  from  1529  to  1771,  was 
almost  entirely  burned  down  by  the  French  in  1688.  The  lofty  and 
conspicuous  Watch  Tower  on  the  Thurmberg  (20  min.),  said  to  be  of 
Roman  origin,  commands  a  splendid  view. 

From  Durlach  to  Pfobzbsim,  16  H . ;  thence  to  Wildbad,  14Vs  M. 
more.  Railway  to  Wildbad  in  li/s-o  hrs.  (fares  3  m.  95,  2  m.  60,  1  m.  70  pf.). 
The  train  traverses  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Pjtnt.  8  M.  Sdllingen,  10«/«  M. 
Wilferdingen  (Krone).  The  line  now  Bkirts  the  N.  slopes  of  the  Black 
Forest.     12'/2  M.  Ktmigsbach. 

16  H.  Pforzheim  (*H6tel  Aulenrieth;  Schwarter  Adler),  a  thriving 
manufacturing  town ,  with  24,000  inhab. ,  lies  at  |he  confluence  of  the 
Ent,  the  WUrm,  and  the  Nagold.  The  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver 
wares  is  largely  carried  on  here,  employing  upwards  of  10,000  workmen. 
A  number  of  substantial  new  buildings  have  sprung  up  at  Pforzheim  of 
late  years.  The  *  Schlosskirche ,  close  to  the  station,  erected  in  the  12th- 
15th  cent,  in  the  transition  -  style ,  contains  a  number  of  monuments  of 
the  Margraves  of  Baden  of  the  16th  century.  In  the  town  are  a  Statue 
of  Margrave  Ernest  (d.  1558),  the  founder  of  the  now  extinct  Baden- 
Durlach-Ernestine  family,  and  a  War  Monument.  A  branch-line  connects 
Pforzheim  with  Muhlacker,  where  it  joins  the  BruchBal  line  to  Stuttgart. 
—  Railway  to  Calw,  Tubingen,  and  Constance,  see  Baedeker's  Southern 
Germany. 

The  Wildbad  Railway  continues  to  follow  the  pleasant,  grassy  valley 
of  the  Ent,  which  now  contracts.    2  M.  Brfitsingen;  4  M.  Birkenfeld. 

U  M.  Neuenburg  (Post),  a  picturesquely  situated  little  town,  is  com- 


Hi  «  ^iv  lit 

Li *  .id    h ^m^m/Bi  — HIJIi-. 


CARLSRUHE.  45.  Boutc.     307 

manded  by  a  Seklou  (now  occupied  by  public  offices),  erected  in  1668  by 
Duke  Christopher  on  the  site  of  an  older  building,  on  a  wooded  height 
encircled  by  the  Enz.  Adjoining  the  Schloss  is  the  ruined  castle  called 
the  Fruchtspeicher,  with  some  Roman  relics. 

The  train  crosses  the  Ens,  passes  under  the  Schlossberg  by  means  of 
a  tunnel,  and  again  crosses  the  stream.  lOVs  M.  Mdfen ;  12»/i  M.  Calmbach 
(""Sonne),  with  a  handsome  new  church.    14>/i  H.  Wildbad,  see  p.  324. 

On  the  right  as  we  approach  Carlsruhe  we  observe  Schloss  Gottes- 
au  (p.  313). 

34^2  M.  Carlsruhe,  see  below.  The  through-trains  to  Switzer- 
land generally  stop  here  for  dinner.  Railway  beyond  Carlsruhe, 
see  p.  313. 

Carlirohe.  —  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  3)  is  on  the  8.  side  of  the 
town ;  trains  to  Heidelberg,  see  above ;  to  Baden,  see  p.  313 ;  to  Pforzheim 
and  Wildbad,  see  p.  306;  to  Bretten  and  Wurtemberg,  see  Baedeker** 
Southern  Germany.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  town  there  is  a  small  station 
('Miihlburgthor')  for  the  trains  to  Haxau  (p.  313)  and  Mannheim  (p.  240). 

Hotels.  *Geemania  (PI.  h;  D,  3),  near  the  station,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  town,  well  fitted  up,  R.  from  2"/»,  A.  !/2,  L.  1/2,  B.  1,  D.  3  m. ; 
Bbbpbinz  (PI.  a;  D,  2),  Kaiser-Str.;  Hotel  GteosBB  (PI.  c;  D,  2),  in  the 
market-place,  well  spoken  of,  R.  2  m.,  D.  2  m.  40  pf.;  *Gbuxe&  Hof  (PI.  e; 
E,  3),  near  the  station,  with  restaurant  and  garden.  —  °Prinz  Max,  near 
the  station;  °  Hotel  Stoffleth  (B&r;  PI.  f ;  D,  8),  R.  1  m.  80,  B.  75  pf., 
and  'Goldnrb  Adlbk  (PI.  d;  D,  3),  R.  2,  D.  2  m.,  both  in  the  Carl- 
Friedrichs-Str.,  near  the  station ;  Rothes  Haus,  Wald-Str.,  near  the 
theatre.  *Geibt,  Kronen-Str.,  Deutscher  Hof,  unpretending.  —  Hotel 
Garni  Tannhaubkr,  Kaiser-Str.  —  Boarding  House:  Fr&ulein  Jfernst, 
Douglas-Sir.  5,  150-160  m.  per  month. 

Restaurants.  *  Stadtgarten,  see  p.  313;  Ca/4  Anglais,  in  the  market; 
Nowach,  near  the  station ;  *Palmgarten,  Herren-Str.  34 ;  also  at  the  above- 
named  hotels. 

Tramway  from  the  Railway  Station  into  the  town  and  along  the  Kaiser- 
Str.  (see  the  Plan);  fare  within  the  town  10  pf.,  Sun.  15  pf.;  to  Muhlburg 
(on  the  W.)  and  to  Gottesau  (on  the  E.),  same  fares. 

Cabs.  One-horse  or  two-horse,  to  or  from  the  station,  1  pers.  50, 
2  pers.  70  pf.,  3  pers.  1  m.,  4  pers.  1  m.  10,  luggage  20  pf.  —  Drives  tm*At» 
the  town:  one-horse ,  1-2  pers.  for  »/*  nr-  &0>  &"*&  PerS-  6®  Pf-  i  for  »/a  nr« 
90  or  1  m.  10  pf. ;  two-horse  60,  90  pf.,  1  m.  10,  1  m.  60  pf.  —  To  the  Neue 
Friedhof  1  in.,  1  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  1  m.  40,  1  m.  80  pf. ;  to  Durlach 
1  m.  80,  2  m.,  two-horse  2  m.,  2  m.  40  pf.  —  Double  fares  from  9  p.m.  to 
6  a.m.  (in  winter  8-7). 

Post  Office,  Friedrichs-PlaU  1,  entrance  from  the  Ritter-Str.  (PI.  21). 

Telegraph  Office,   corner  of  the  Herren-Str.  and  the  Standehaus-Str. 

Theatre  (PI.  22)  four  times  a  week ;  closed  from  15th  June  to  15th  Aug. 

Baths.  *8tddtisches  VierordUbad  (PI.  D,  3),  near  the  Stadtgarten ,  ad- 
mirably fitted  up.  In  the  Rhine,  at  Maxau  (p.  313),  to  which  special  morn- 
ing and  evening  trains  convey  bathers  in  summer. 

English  Church  Service  in  the  ehapel  of  the  Pfriinder  Haus,  near 
the  Muhlburger  Thor,  every  alternate  Sunday  at  3  p.m.,  conducted  by  the 
English  chaplain  of  Baden  (p.  315). 

Carlsruhe  (318  ft.) ,  the  capital  of  the  Grand  Duchy  of  Baden 
(49,400  inhab.,  2/6  Rom.  Cath.),  situated  6  M.  from  the  Rhine,  on 
the  outskirts  of  the  Hardtwald ,  is  a  clean,  well-built  town,  which 
owes  its  origin  to  the  Margrave  Charles  William ,  who  founded  a 
castle  here  in  1715  and  transferred  his  residence  hither  from  Dur- 
lach. The  plan  of  the  old  town  resembles  a  fan,  the  streets  radiat- 
ing from  the  palace.    Several  distinct  architectural  styles  may  be 

20* 


308    Route  45.  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

observed :  The  palace  and  the  other  older  buildings  are  in  the 
French  style  prevalent  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  The 
structures  of  the  next  period  exhibit  the  simple  and  harmonious 
classical  forms  introduced  by  Friedrich  Weinbrenner  (d.  1826) ,  an 
architect  who  received  his  training  in  Rome.  His  principal  succes- 
sors were  Hubsch  (1795-1863)  and  Eisenlohr  (1805-1854),  who 
erected  many  handsome  buildings  in  the  modern  Romanesque  (round- 
arched)  style ,  and  long  determined  the  tone  of  Carlsruhe  architec- 
ture. The  numerous  stately  edifices  erected  in  recent  years  by  Berck- 
muller  (d.  1879),  Lang,  and  others  form  a  fourth  period ,  marked 
by  great  diversity  of  style.  The  importance  of  Carlsruhe  as  an  in- 
dustrial town  has  of  late  increased  very  rapidly,  its  principal  man- 
ufactures being  engines  and  railway-carriages,  furniture,  and  plat- 
ed goods. 

The  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  3)  was  built  in  1842  by  Eisenlohr, 
the  architect  of  most  of  the  older  Baden  stations.  In  front  of  it  is  a 
small  Platz ,  planted  with  trees ,  and  embellished  with  a  bronze 
statue  of  Winter  (PI.  26 ;  d.  1838),  the  minister,  designed  by  Reich 
and  executed  by  Burgschmiet  in  1855.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  left, 
is  a  Monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  German  soldiers  who 
died  at  Carlsruhe  from  wounds  or  disease  during  the  war  of  1870- 
71,  and  consisting  of  a  group  in  marble  on  a  lofty  sandstone  pe- 
destal, executed  by  Volz  in  1877. 

Opposite  the  memorial,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Carl-Friedrichs- 
Strasse,  stands  the  Oermania  H6tel  (p.  307),  a  handsome  Renaissance 
structure,  by  Schmadel.  Near  it  is  a  handsome  Fountain,  by  Lang, 
with  marble  figures  by  Moest,  erected  in  honour  of  the  Burgomaster 
Malsch. 

The  Carl-Friedrichfl-Strasse,  extending  from  the  site  of  the 
old  Ettlinger  Thor  northwards  to  the  palace  (3/4  M.),  is  one  of  the 
main  streets  of  the  town.  The  chief  buildings  here  are  all  by  Wein- 
brenner, and  present  a  handsome  and  uniform  appearance.  In  the 
Rondel- Platz  rises  an  Obelisk  f'Verfassungssaule';  PI.  6;  D,  3)  to 
the  Grand  Duke  Carl  (1811-18),  the  'founder  of  the  constitution*; 
6n  the  right  is  the  Margrave's  Palace  (PI.  15),  by  Weinbrenner. 

The  Landes  -  Oewerbehalle ,  on  the  right ,  contains  a  good  in- 
dustrial museum  and  a  technical  library,  (Admission  daily  10-12 ; 
on  Sundays  11-12  and  2-4). 

On  the  left  side  of  the  market-place  is  the  Town  Hall  (PI.  18 ; 
D,  2),  built  in  1821,  with  a  porch  containing  a  memorial  tablet  to 
the  natives  of  Carlsruhe  who  fell  in  the  war  of  1870-71,.  and  on  the 
right  the  Protestant  Church  (PI.  19),  with  a  Corinthian  portico,  the 
burial -church  of  the  grand -ducal  family.  Both  these  edifices  are 
by  Weinbrenner.  In  the  centre  of  the  market-place  is  a  fountain 
with  a  Statue  of  the  Grand  Duke  Lewis  (1818-1830;  PI.  4),  by 
Raufer.  J 

Farther  along  the  Carl-Friedrichs-Strasse,   near  its  intersection 


to  Baden.  CARLSRUHE.  45.  Route.     309 

with  the  Kaiser-Strasse  (p.  312"),  the  other  principal  street  of  the 
town,  is  a  Pyramid  (PI.  8;  D,  2)  in  honour  of  Margrave  Charles 
William  (p.  307),  who  is  buried  here. 

In  front  of  the  palace,  in  the  centre  of  a  square  embellished 
with  gardens  and  fountains,  is  the  *  Bronze  Statue  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Charles  Frederick  (PI.  3;  d.  1811),  by  Schwanthaler,  erected 
in  1844,  with  four  female  figures  at  the  corners  of  the  pedestal, 
emblematical  of  the  four  divisions  of  the  Duchy. 

The  Schloss  (PI.  20;  D,  E,  1),  erected  in  1754-76,  is  in  the 
form  of  a  semicircle ,  and  surmounted  by  the  Bleithurm  (150  ft.), 
which  affords  a  good  survey  of  the  town  and  the  Hard tw aid.  The 
dining-hall,  ball-room,  and  other  apartments  are  sumptuously  fitted 
up.  In  the  hall  is  a  fine  orchestrion,  which  is  generally  played  on 
Sunday  forenoons.  The  well-appointed  ducal  *Stables  (open  12-41 
are  on  the  E.  side. 

In  the  crescent  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Schloss-Platz,  connected 
with  the  Schloss  by  an  arcade,  is  the  *  Court  Theatre  (PI.  22), 
erected  in  1847-1853,  by  Hubsch,  to  replace  one  which  had  been 
burned  down.  In  style  it  differs  from  other  large  theatres  in  being 
Romanesque  instead  of  classic.  The  pediment  contains  (r.)  reliefs  of 
Goethe,  Schiller,  and  Lessing,  and  (1.)  of  Mozart,  Beethoven,  and 
Gluck ;  in  the  centre  the  Muse,  of  the  Drama ;  all  by  Reich.  In  the 
interior  the  new  drop-scene,  painted  by  Keller,  merits  inspection.' 

An  arched  passage  in  the  W.  wing  of  the  SchlosB  leads  to  the  Palace 
Garden  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  recently  embellished  with  fountains,  etc. ,  which  ex- 
tends into  the  Hardtwald.  Near  the  entrance  stands  a  marble  group  of 
Hermann  and  Dorothea  by  Sieinhauser.  About  250  yds.  N.W.  of  the 
Bleithurm ,  in  a  small  avenue ,  is  a  monument  to  the  poet  Rebel  (PI.  5), 
erected  in  1835  (comp.  pp.  337  and  358).  Adjacent  is  a  figure  of  Victory, 
presented  by  the  Em  p.  William  on  the  completion  of  the  25th  year  of  the 
Grand  Duke's  reign. 

Behind  the  Court  Theatre  is  the  Botanic  Garden,  with  a  Winter  Gar- 
den (PI.  24;  open  on  Hon.  and  Frid.,  9-12  and  2-4),  containing  a  palm- 
house,  pond  for  the  Victoria  Regia,  orangery,  green-houses,  &c,  con- 
structed in  1853-56  from  designs  by  Htibsch,  to  whom  a  monument  has  been 
erected  here.  The  usual  entrance  to  the  Botanic  Garden  is  in  the  Linken- 
heimer-Strasse  (p.  311). 

Adjacent  is  the  *Hall  of  Art  (PI.  12;  generally  called  the 
'Academiegebaude'),  built  by  Hubsch  (1836-45)  in  the  modern  Ro- 
manesque style,  containing  collections  of  pictures,  casts,  and  anti- 
quities (entrance  from  the  Linkenheimer-Strasse).  The  sculptures 
at  the  entrance  are  by  Reich.  The  collections  are  open  to  the 
public  on  Wed.  and  Sun.,  11-1  and  2-4;  at  other  times  fee  V2~lm* 
Catalogue  1  m. 

Ground-Floor.  On  the  left  is  the  saloon  of  the  Carlsruhe  Art  Unian 
(adm.  20  pf.),  containing  a  collection  of  modern  pictures  and  other  Works 
of  art,  chiefly  by  artists  of  Carlsruhe  (for  sale).  The  walls  are  adorned 
with  four  cartoons  by  Schwind,  representing  a  procession  of  children.  — 
On  the  ground-floor  "are  also  several  rooms  and  cabinets  containing  casts 
of  ancient  and  modern  sculptures. 

Staircase.  'Frescoes  by  Schwind.  executed  in  1840,  representing  the 
consecration  of  Freiburg  Cathedral  by  Duke  Conrad  of  Zahringen.  The 
standard-bearer  is  a  portrait  of  the  Grand  Duke  Leopold,  with  his  son  by 


310    Route  45. 


CABLSRUHE. 


From  Heidelberg 


his  side  ;  the  workman  with  the  white  collar  to  the  right  of  the  entrance 
is  the  architect  Hiibsch;  the  crowned  female  figures  are  portraits  of  the 
Grand  Duchess  and  her  daughters  •,  Schwind  himself  is  seen  on  the  scaf- 
folding to  the  right ;  to  the  left  is  Sabina,  daughter  of  Erwin  of  Steinbach 
(comp.  p.  268),  to  the  right  is  Baldung  Grien,  painting  the  Margrave 
Christopher  1.  (see  below).  —  The  allegorical  paintings  in  the  lunettes 
are  alBo  by  Schwind:  that  in  the  middle  represents  Art  protected  by  the 
Church  and  State ;  on  the  right  are  figures  of  Fancy  and  Wealth,  on  the 
left  Science  and  Peace.  —  Another  part  of  the  wall  is  adorned  with  a 
continuation  of  the  above  mentioned  Procession  of  Children  by  Schwind, 
and  the  cartoon  for  Overbed?*  'Triumph  of  Christianity  in  the  Arts' 
(P.  212). 

First  Floor.  The  First  Corridor  (to  the  left)  contains  a  few  cartoons 
by  Overbeck,  Schwind  (Procession  of  Children),  and  Schnorr  von  Karols- 
feld  (scenes  from  the  'Orlando  Furioso'  in  the  Villa  Massimi  at  Rome), 
and  a  number  of  early  German  and  Netherlandish  works.  2nd  Section: 
Bernhardt  St  rig  el,  Pieta,  Hocking  of  Christ;  Hans  Holbein  the  Younger 
(or  perhaps  the  Elder ?"),  Bearing  of  the  Cross,  with  numerous  figures; 
Holbein  the  Younger,    88.  George  and  Ursula,   probably  the  wings   of  an 


6.  Cab. 

.  i 

1 

, 

2.  Cab. 

8. 
Cab. 

7. 
Cab. 

IV.  Room. 

5             4             3 

1              1 

I.  Room. 
1                    1 

1. 
Cab. 

III. 
Boom. 

i 

Hill 

|| 

r 

II. 
Room. 

= 

Second  Corridor. 

•   • 

4 

»          • 

1 

First  Corridor. 

I 

i 

altar-piece;  Hans  Baldung,  surnamed  Grien,  Margrave  Christopher  I.  of 
Baden  and  his  family  kneeling  before  the  Virgin  and  St.  Anna ;  Lucas 
Cranach  the  Elder,  Judgment  of  Paris,  Paris  and  Hermes  in  the  guise  of 
Saxon  knights.  3rd  Section:  School  of  Cranach,  Luther  after  death;  Hie. 
Neuchatel  (d.  1600),  Portraits;  winged  altar-pieces  by  Han*  Burgkmaier, 
Earth.  Beham,  and  H.  von  Kulmbach.  —  Cab.  I.  (to  the  left):  Joh.  HuU- 
mann  (d.  after  1646),  Heidelberg;  Fran*  Snyders,  Gigantic  cabbages.  — 
We  now  enter  — 

Room  I.  Jqc.  Jordaens,  Hoses  drawing  water  from  the  rock;  * Adr. 
Brouwer,  Sleeping  peasant,  Dentist;  Dav.  Tenier*  the  Younger,  Village 
doctor;  Corn.  Jan*sen*,  Portrait.  —  *Barth.  van  der  Helet,  Young  married 
couple;  Jan  Both,  Italian  landscape;  Jan  van  der  Hepde,  Dutch  street-scene, 
with  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde;  Willem  van  Ael*t,  Butterfly  and  thistle, 
Snail  and  spider,  Still-life  piece  dated  1668;  Lud.  Bakhuieen,  Harbour; 
*A.  van  de  Velde,  Shepherd  reposing,  Cattle  in  a  wood;  *Jan  Wynants, 
Landscape,  with  figures  by  A.  van  de  Velde.  "Retnbrandt,  Fantastic  por- 
trait of  himself,  1633;  Gov.  Flinch,  Portrait;  "A.  van  Ottade,  Humorous 
scenes  of  peasant  life,  early  works  (signed  A.  v.  C);  *Fran*  van  Mieri* 
the  Elder,  Portrait,  a  youthful  work;  "Gabriel  Met*u,  Cavalier  and  Fries- 
land  lady  drinking  wine,  an  admirable  example  of  Hetsu's  powers ;  Van 
Steen,  Husband  and  wife  in  a  garden;  Karel  du  Jardin,  Shepherdess  and 
cattle;  Jac.  van  Ruytdael,  Forest  scene;  Pieter  de  Hooch,  Woman  and 
girl  in  a  room  overlooking  a  garden ;  Aart  van  der  Neer,  Hoonlight  scenes ; 
Jan  van  Huyeum,  Flowers  (dated  1714);  *Qer.  Don,  Herring-seller  (1652) 
Repentant  Hagdalene,  Lace-maker.  * M.  d'Hondecoeter,  Poultry;  Jan 
Weentx,    Dead   hare;    Caspar   Netscher,    Cleopatra;    *P.    van   Sling  eland, 


to  Baden.  CARLSRUHE.  45.  Route.    31 1 

Room  II.  To  the  right:  Nic.  Alunno  (Umbrian  painter,  d.  1502), 
Crucifixion,  with  the  Virgin,  John  the  Evangelist,  and  the  Magdalene, 
below  Pope  Gregory,  with  worshipping  Christians,  a  genuine  but  repainted 
work  (dated  1468);  Ann.  Carracci,  Han  langhing.  Lorenzo  di  Credi  (Flo- 
rentine master,  1459-1537),  Madonna  and  John  adoring  the  Holy  Child,  a 
late  work,  in  good  preservation ;  Ans.  Feuerbach,  Reduced  copy  of  Titian's 
Assumption  at  Veniee.  A.  Bronzino,  tfobteman;  Salvator  Rota,  Italian 
mountain-scene ;  several  copies  of  works  by  Raphael. 

Cab.  2.  Phil,  de  Champaiane,  Portrait;  Oreuze,  Louis XVI.  •,  Fr.  Boucher, 
Genre  scenes  (in  the  style  of  Watteau)  ;  Orimou,  Portraits  of  girls ;  J.  B. 
Char&tn,  Still-life.  A  few  works  by  Spanish  artists.  —  The  following  rooms 
contain  the  modern  works. 

Cab.  3.  K.  Frommel,  Heidelberg  •,  Kunz,  Animal  pieces.  —  Cab.  4.  M. 
von  Schwind,  Ritter  Kurt's  Bridal  Procession,  a  humorous  composition  in 
the  old  German  manner,  bearing  the  motto,  'Widersacher,  Weiber,  Schul- 
den,  ach !  kein  Ritter  wird  sie  los"  (Of  foes,  women,  and  debts,  alas !  no 
knight  can  get  rid);  this  work  was  bought  in  1839  by  the  Grand  Duke, 
who  afterwards  persuaded  the  artist  to  reside  in  Carlsruhe  ffor  several 
years.  Overbed,  Raising  of  Lazarus;  Andr.  Achenbach,  Landscape;  L. 
Kaohel,  The  gentle  passion;  Schirmer,  Scene  in  (the  Campagna;  A.  von 
Bayer,  Strassburg  Cathedral.  —  Cab.  5.  Kirner,  Rustic  scenes  in  the 
Black  Forest  and  in  Italy ;  Ernst  Fries.  Italian  scene ;  A.  von  Bayer.  Jeanne 
de  France  in  the  convent  of  Bourges.  —  Cab.  6.  A.  von  Bayer,  Freiburg 
Cathedral ;  *Lindemann~Frommel,  Scene  on  the  coast  of  Italy ;  Karl  Roux, 
Dorothea  among  the  emigrants  (from  Goethe). 

Room  III.  Feodor  Dietz,  Destruction  of  Heidelberg  by  Me*lac,  Queen 
Maria  Eleonora  by  the  coffin  of  Gustavus  Adolphus ;  W.  Emele,  Battle  of 
Nuits  (Dec.  18th,  1870) ,  with  Prince  William  of  Baden  issuing  orders ; 
"Nicutowski,  Passage  of  the  Beresina  by  Napoleon  in  1812 ;  A.  Achenbach, 
Steamer  in  collision  with  an  iceberg;  Hans  Qude,  Coast  of  Norway. 

Room  IV.  Ferd.  Keller,  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden  in  the  Turkish 
war;  "Riefttahl,  Funeral  ceremony  in  the  mountains.  Ans.  Feuerbach, 
Dante  and  the  ladies  of  Ravenna,  painted  in  imitation  of  Palma  Vecchio ; 
Poetry  (over  life-size).  J.  W.  Schirmer,  Parable  of  the  Good  Samaritan, 
in  four  scenes,  with  extensive  landscapes;  fr.  Voltz,  Landscape  in  sum- 
mer. K.  F.  Letting,  Dispute  between  Luther  and  Eck  at  Leipzig  in  1519 
in  presence  of  Duke  George  of  Saxony  and  Prince  John,  a  very  effective 
composition ;  *8cene  from  the  First  Crusade ;  Wooded  Ravine,  with  figures 
of  the  period  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War.  *3teinle,  Mary  and  Elizabeth; 
Winierhalter,  Grand  Duke  Leopold  of  Baden ;  Tidemand,  The  grandmother's 
bridal  ornaments;  *Schmitson,  Horse  shying;  F.  Hiddemann,  Westphalian 
funeral. 

Cab.  7.  *  WttheUn  Sohn,  A  matter  of  conscience ;  Rottmann,  Two  Greek 
landscapes;  /.  Becker,  A  proposal  of  marriage;  Ans.  Feuerbach,  Satyr 
playing  the  flute  to  the  infant  Bacchus;  Ten  Kate,  Genre  scenes.  — 
Cab.  8.    Water-colours  by  W.  Dilrr,  Ad.  Schrddter,  etc. 

We  now  return  to  the  staircase  through  the  Second  Corridor,  which 
contains  cartoons  by  Veit,  Hess,  Bchnorr  von  Karolsfeld,  and  others. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Academy  of  Art,  in  the  Linkenheimer- 
Strasse,  between  the  Academie-Strasse  and  the  Stephanien-Strasse, 
rises  the  imposing  new  Palace  of  Justice,  built  by  Leonhard  (d. 
1878),  and  accommodating  all  the  superior  law-courts  of  Baden.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  Linkenheimer-Strasse  is  one  of  the  entrances 
to  the  Botanic  Garden  (p.  309). 

Farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  the  Bismarck  -  Stbassb  ,  which 
diverges  to  the  left,  are  the  Headquarters  of  the  XIV.  Corps  d'ArmSe, 
built  by  Devin,  and  generally  called  the  Palais  Werder,  after  the 
victor  of  Belfort,  who  was  the  first  commandant  of  the  corps.  —  At 
the  W.  end  of  the  Bismarck-Strasse  lies  the  School  of  Art  (PI.  C,  2  ^ 


31*2     Route  45.  CARLSRUHE.  From  Heidelberg 

director,  Karl  Roux),  founded  by  Grand  Duke  ^Frederick  in  1853, 
and  supported  by  him  till  1876,  when  Government  relieved  him  of 
the  burden.  —  The  Westend-Strasse ,  which  diverges  to  the  left 
from  the  Bismarck-Strasse,  contains  numerous  handsome  villas. 

The  finest  square  in  Carlaruhe  is  the  Fribdrichs-Platz  (PI.  D, 
2.  3),  which  is  surrounded  with  imposing  modern  buildings,  and 
embellished  with  pleasure-grounds,  a  fountain,  and  a  group  of 
Orestes  and  Pylades  by  Steinhauser.  It  is  traversed  from  E.  to  W. 
by  the  Erbprinzen-Strasse  and  bounded  on  the  N.  by  a  row  of  ar- 
cades and  shops.  On  the  E.  side  are  the  Central  Offices  of  the  Baden 
Railways,  and  on  the  S.  is  the  imposing  museum  of  the  Vereinigte 
Sammlnngen  (PI.  23;  D,  3),  with  its  conspicuous  central  portion 
somewhat  resembling  a  triumphal  arch,  erected  by  Berckmuller  in 
1865-72.  The  four  marble  figures  are  by  Steinhauser,  The  stair- 
case is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Keller  and  Olcichauf*  The  grand- 
ducal  collections  are  open  to  the  public  on  Sun.  and  "Wed.,  11-1  and 
2-4 ;  at  other  times  on  payment  of  a  fee. 

On  the  ground-floor,  to  the  right,  is  the  'Collection  of  Antiquities 
(catalogue  1  m.)-  Room  I.  Greek  and  Italian  vases  and  terracottas,  the 
latter  chiefly  from  8icily:  B,  1.  Amphora  from  Girgenti,  with  Zeus  be- 
fore the  birth  of  Athena ;  B,  4.  Amphora  from  Buvo,  with  Orpheus  and 
Proserpine*  B,  7.  Fine  amphora  from  the  Basilicata;  B,  96.  Hydria,  or 
water-jug,  with  the  Judgment  of  Paris.  —  Boom  II.  Mithras  reliefs  from 
Neuenheim  (C,  16)  and  Osterburken  (G,  118) ;  Etruscan  bronze  weapons  and 
tripod.  — -  Boom  III.  Smaller  German  antiquities,  chiefly  of  the  flint,  Ro- 
man, and  Merovingian  periods.  Ethnographical  Collection.  —  Boom  IV.  Old 
Weapons,  chiefly  Turkish  spoils  of  war  captured  by  Margrave  Lewis  William 
(p.  573).  —  A  Hall  in  the  central  part  of  the  building  contains  Roman  and 
mediaeval  stone  monuments,  models  of  the  excavations  near  Heidelberg,  etc. 

On  the  ground-floor,  to  the  left,  is  the  Mineralogical  and  Geological 
Collection. 

The  upper  floor  contains  the  Zoological  Collection,  the  Modern  Weapons, 
with  models  of  cannons  in  the  Baden  arsenal,  the  Library,  with  about 
100,000  volumes  and  a  handsome  reading-room  (adm.  Sun.  11-1,  Wed.  10-1 
&  2-6),  and  lastly  the  Cabinet  of  Coin*. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  11 ;  D,  2),  in  the  Erbprinzen- 
Strasse  ,  was  built  by  Weinbrenner  in  the  style  of  the  Pantheon, 
with  an  Ionic  portico.  Opposite  (to  the  S.)  are  the  Grand -ducal 
Government  Offices,  by  Hubsch  (1&57),  and  the  Furstenberg  Palace. 

At  the  £.  end  of  the  Kaisbr-Strassb,  a  street  l1^  M.  long, 
flanked  with  handsome  modern  houses  and  attractive  shops,  rises  the 
Polytechnic  School  (PI.  16 ;  E,  2),  erected  by  Hubsch  in  1836  and 
considerably  enlarged  by  Fischer  in  1863.  Over  the  entrance  are 
stone  statues  of  Keppler  and  Erwin  of  Steinbach,  by  Raufer.  In  the 
vestibule  is  a  tablet  recording  the  names  of  the  students  who  fell  in 
the  war  of  1870-71,  and  in  the  court  is  a  bust  of  Prof.  Redtenbacher 
(d.  1867),  the  engineer,  by  Moest.  This  institution  is  the  oldest  of 
the  kind  in  Germany,  and  is  attended  by  about  350  students. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Polytechnic  School  and  approached  by  the 
Waldhorn-Strasse  is  the  Old  Cemetery  (PI.  F,  3),  which  merits  a  visit. 
The  Preussen-Denkmal  (PI.  7),  in  memory  of  Prussians  who  fell  in 


to  Baden.  RASTATT.  45.  Route.     313 

the  revolution  of  1849,  was  erected  in  1851  from  designs  furnished 
by  King  Frederick  William  IV.  The  cemetery  also  contains  a  War 
Monument  in  commemoration  of  the  campaign  of  1870-71. 

Farther  on,  about  i/»  M.  from  the  Durlacher  Thor  (tramway),  is 
the  Schloss  Gottbsau  (PI.  G,  3),  erected  by  Margrave  Carl  II.  in 
1553  on  the  site  of  a  Benedictine  abbey  dating  from  1110,  and  en- 
larged by  Ernst  Friedrich  in  1588.  The  interior  has  been  fitted  up 
as  an  artillery-barrack,  but  the  exterior  with  its  five  towers  and 
somewhat  heavy  ornamentation  has  remained  unaltered.  —  Nearly 
opposite  Schloss  Gottesau,  to  the  left,  diverges  the  road  leading  to 
the, fine  Nbw  Cbmbtbby,  which  lies  about  1  M.  from  the  Durlacher 
Thor  and  was  laid  out  by  the  architect  Durm. 

Pleasant  walks  are  afforded  by  the  Palace  Garden  (p.  309),  the 
Wildpark  (permission  obtained  from  the  Intend  ant  of  the  Grand- 
ducal  Domains  or  at  the  Grand-ducal  Administration  of  Forests), 
the  Hardtwald,  the  grounds  of  the  SallenwcUdchen  (PI.  D,  4) ,  and 
the  adjacent  Stadtgarten  (fee),  which  contains  a  zoological  collec- 
tion and  a  large  concert  and  "ball  room  (*Restaurant),  where  a  mili- 
tary band  plays  frequently  in  the  afternoon  (adm.  SO  pf.).  On  the 
N.  margin  of  the  Stadtgarten  is  the  Vierordtsbad  (p.  307),  built  by 
Durm  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style  in  1873. 

From  Carlsbuhe  to  Landau,  25  M.,  by  railway  in  li/j  hr.  (fares 
3  m.  90,  2  m.  60,  i  m.  70  pf.).  l»/4  M.  Milhtburgthor  (p.  907);  3  M.  MUhl- 
burg;  4'/2  M.  Knielingen;  674  M.  Maxau  (baths,  see  p.  30T),  where  the  Rhine 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge-of-boats  \  then  Ma ximiliansau ,  8  M.  Wdrlh,  12  M. 
Langenkandel ,  and  17  M.  Winden,  where  the  line  joins  the  Palatinate 
railway.  —  25  M.  Landau,  see  p.  252. 


Soon  after  the  train  has  quitted  the  Carlsruhe  station,  the  two 
towers  of  the  church  of  Bulach  (erected  by  Hubsch)  are  seen  on 
the  right.  To  the  left  wooded  hills. 

38  M.  Ettlingen  (*Erbprinz),  an  industrial  town  of  5600 inhab,, 
with  thriving  shirting,  velvet,  and  paper-manufactories;  paper  has 
been  made  here  since  1482.  Diligence  to  Herrenalb  (12*/2  M. ; 
p.  324),  once  daily.  —  43  M.  Malsch;  45*/2M.  Muggemturm.  The 
mountains  of  the  Murgthal  bound  the  view  on  the  left. 

48i/2  M.  Eaatatt  (407  ft. ;  *Kreuz1  in  the  market-place;  Lowe, 
Post,  plainer;  omnibus  from  the  station  into  the  town,  30 pf.), 
a  town  with  12,350  inhab.,  formerly  an  insignificant  place  ,  burned 
by  the  French  in  1689 ,  but  soon  afterwards  rebuilt  in  a  superior 
style  by  the  celebrated  Imperial  general  Margrave  Lewis  of  Baden 
(d.  1707),  was  the  residence  of  the  Margraves  till  the  line  became 
extinct.  It  was  fortified  by  the  Austrians  in  1840.  From  1844  to 
1866  Rastatt  was  one  of  the  fortresses  of  the  German  Confederation. 

The  handsome  Palace  (no  admission),  completed  by  the  Mar- 
gravine Sibylla  Augusta  (p.  323),  now  used  for  military  purposes, 
stands  on  an  eminence,  and  is  crowned  with  a  gilded  statue  of 
Jupiter. 


314     Route  46.  BADEN. 

In  one  of  the  apartments  the  peace  between  France  and  Austria,  which 
terminated  the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  was  signed  by  Prince  Eugene  of 
Savoy  and  Marshall  Villars.  A  congress  held  here  in  1797-99  between 
Austria  and  Germany  on  the  one  side  and  France  on  the  other  led  to  no 
result,  and  at  its  close  the  two  French  delegates  were  barbarously  mur- 
'  dered  by  Austrian  hussars  in  an  adjacent  wood,  but  at  whose  instigation 
it  was  never  discovered.  —  The  Baden  revolution  began  at  Bastatt  in  1849 
with  a  serious  mutiny  of  the  soldiery,  and  it  was  also  terminated  here 
by  the  surrender  of  the  fortress  to  the  Prussians  after  a  siege  of  three 
weeks. 

From  Rastatt  to  Gebnsbach,  9Vs  M.,  by  railway  in  "A  hr.  (fares 
lm.  50,  1  m.  15,  75  pf.).  —  2»/i  H.  Kuppenheim  (Ochs) ;  on  the  right  the  Fa- 
vorite (p.  323).  The  line  enters  the  valley  of  the  Mwg%  here  upwards  of 
3  M.  in  width.  —  5  M.  RothenfeUy  with  a  small  chateau  of  the  Margrave  Wil- 
liam, a  mineral -spring  ('Bath-house,  'pens.'  5  m.)  and  well-kept  grounds. 
Near  (674  M.)  Oaggenau  (Rose)  rises  a  monument  to  M.  Bindeschwender,  a 
patriotic  native  of  Baden.  —  9l/2  M.  Qemsbach>  see  p.  322. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Murg,  and  reaches  — 

54M.  Oos,  whence  a  branch-line  (change  carriages)  ascends  the 
Oosthal  in  10  min.  to  (5672  M.)  Baden, 

46.  Baden  and  Environs. 

Comp.  Map. 

Arrival.  The  Railway  Station  (PI.  A,  1)  is  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the 
town.  Porter  from  the  train  to  a  cab,  5  pf.  for  each  article  of  luggage ; 
for  carrying  a  trunk  into  the  town  30  pfM  more  than  one  30  pf.  each, 
light  articles  10  pf.  each  ;  after  11  p.m.  35,  30,  20  pf.  —  Cab  CPackdroschkS): 
lU  hr.  for  1-2  pers.  70  pf.,  for  34  pers.  lm.  15  pf.  ;  for  V*  hr.  lm.  5  or 
1  m.  40  pf.  (to  Lichtenthal  lm.  40  or  1  m.  70  pf.);  from  9  to  12  p.m.,  1  m. 
5,  1  m.  40,  1  m.  40,  and  1  m.  70  pf. ;  from  midnight  to  5  a.m.,  1  m.  40,  1  m. 
70,  1  m.  70,  and  2  m.  15  pf. ;  each  box  20  pf.  —  Omnibus  into  the  town 
30,  luggage  20  pf. 

Hotels.  *Victobia(P1.  v  ;  C,3J,  Sophien-Str.  3,  in  the  Leopolds-Plate ;  *Ra- 
dischbb  Hop  (PI.  b ;  B,  2),  Lange-Str.  22,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town,  with 
baths  and  pleasant  garden,  quieter  than  most  of  the  other  hotels ;  *Engli- 
8Ghbb  Hop  (Pl.h;  B,4),  Sophien-Str.  2,  by  the  Promenaden-Brucke,  D.  4m.; 
*EuROPiiscHER  Hof  (PI.  i ;  B,  3),  Promenaden-Platz  2,  R.  from  21/*,  D.  4  m.; 
*Stephanibn-Bad  (PI.  u  •,  C,  5),  a  large  building  in  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee, 
with  baths  and  garden ;  *Hollandischeb  Hof  (PI.  m ;  C,  4),  Sophien-Str. 
14,  with  garden  and  the  dependency  Pension  Bbausejoub  (PI.  d ;  B,  C,  3) ; 
*Rbssibchbb  Hof  (PI.  q;  B,  2),  Promenaden-Platz  4;  'Fbankosischbb  Hof 
(PI.  k;  B,  3),  Louisen-Str.  34;  *Stadt  Baden  (PI.  s;  A,  1),  at  the  railway- 
station;  "Zahbingeb  Hof  (PI.  z;  B,  2),  Lange-Strasse  63,  with  baths; 
Belletue,  Maria- Victoria-Str.  6  (PI.  C,  6).  Average  charges  at  all  these 
hotels:  R.  from  2m.,  L.  50-70  pf.,  A.  50-75  pf.,  D.  34m.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. 
—  Charges  somewhat  lower  at  the  following:  *Hibsch  (PI.  1;  B,  3),  Hirsch- 
Str.  1 ,  with  baths,  R.  2  m.,  A.  50,  L.  40  pf. ;  *Dabmstadteb  Hof  (PI.  e ; 
C,  2),  Gernsbacher-Str.  1,  with  baths,  R.  2,  L.  V*,  B.  1  m. ;  "Pktersburgbb 
Hof  (PI.  r;  C,  3),  Gernsbacher-Str.  9,  with  baths  and  restaurant,  R.  2  m., 
A.  50,  L.  50 pf.,  B.  lm.;  Obebst  (PI.  o;  B.  3),  Louisen-Str.  1;  Mdlleb, 
Lange-Str.,  these  two  well  spoken  of,  R.  l»|a,  B.  lm.;  Baibischbr  Hof 
(PI.  c;  A,  1),  Lange-Str.  19,  opposite  the  station,  with  garden,  well  spoken 
of;  Goldbneb  Stbbn  (PI.  x;  B,  3),  Lange-Str.  46,  commercial,  R.  and  L. 
2-2»/«m.,  B.  90  pf. ;  °Dbei  Konige  (PI.  g;  B,  3),  Lange-Str.  62,  good  cui- 
sine; "Zum  Baldreit,  Kufer-Str.  5.  near  the  market,  with  baths,  unpre- 
tending, R.  1  m.-,  Rittbk  (PI.  p;  C,  3),  Gernsbacher-Str.  5;  Fbiedbichsbad, 
Gernsbacher-Str.  41 ;  Krone,  Lange-Str.  60;  Erbobosshbbzoo  (hdtel  garni), 
Lichtenthaler-Str.  52,  with  brewery ;  Stadt  Stbassbubg  (PI.  t ;  C,  3),  So- 
phien-Str. 16;  *Dedtscheb  Hof  (PI.  f;  B,  2),  Lange-Str.  49 ;  Rheinischeb 
Hof,  Lichtenthaler-Str.  5 ;  Rose.  Markt-Platz  13 ;  Zum  Geist,  Gernsbaeher- 


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Cabs. 


BADEN. 


46.  Route.     315 


Str.  80,  with  brewery;  *B1k,  at  Lichtenthal  (p.  319),  and  a  number  of  others. 
'Pension'  at  most  of  the  hotels  for  persons  making  a  prolonged  stay. 

Cafe-Restaurants.  *  Convertatiomhaut ;  *Mangin  (also  'pension'),  Louisen- 
Str.  20;  Stephanim-Bad  (see  above);  *  Peter  sbttrger  So/  (see  above);  Gol- 
denet  Kreuz,  Lien  ten  thaler-Str.,  well  spoken  of;  Drei  Kdnige  (see  above); 
Qoldener  Stern  (see  above),  etc.  —  Confectioners.  Schababerle,  Gernsbacher- 
Str.  4;  Dilzei\  Lange-Str.  —  Beer.  Haug,  Eisenbahn-Str.  11,  near  the 
station;  at  the  Qeiit  and  Stadt  Btraetburg  (see  above);  Bletter,  Lichten- 
thaler-Str. ;  several  restaurants  in  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee,  especially  near 
liichtenthal;  also  at  the  ScMltzenhaus ,  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  beyond 
the  bridge.  —  Dinner  (li/a-2m.)  after  12  o'clock :  Kratubeck,  Sophien-Str.  6 ; 
Sengee,  Seiler-Str.  1,  and  at  many  other  houses. 

Cabs  ('Packdroschken'  at  the  rail,  station,  see  p.  314). 
a.  By  Tims. 

For  V«  hour 

For  1/2  hour 

For  *U  hour 

For  1  hour 

To  Lichtenthal 

Each  additional  7«  hour  40-50  pf. 

In  summer  after  9  p.m.,  and  in  winter  after  8  p.m. :  per  drive  (V*  hr.), 
1-4  pers.,  lm.  40  pf.,  each  additional  V<  ur.  60  pf. ;  each  large  box  40  pf. 

b.  Dkives  at  Fixed  Charges  (1-4  persons). 


1-2  pers. 

3-4 

pers. 

m.  |  pf. 

m. 

pf. 

— 

90 

1 

60 

1 

40 

2 

— 

1 

90 

2 

60 

2 

40 

3 

— 

1 

40 

2 

— 

5* 

IB 


,©  5  .  f  To  the  Alte  Schloss 


« 


and  back 


^"S  A  \  Fremersberg  and  Jagdhaus,  or  Oeroldsau  Waterfall 
I  The  Seelach  or  Gaisbach 

(To  the  Alte  Schloss  and  Ebersteinburg  .  .  .  . 
The  Favorite 
The  Ebersteinburg 
Gernsbach 
Ebersteinschloss 
and  back  by  Gernsbach  .... 
The  Yburg 

To  the  Alte  Schloss,  Ebersteinburg.  Teufelskanzel, 
Mercurius-Thurm,  and  Mullenbild,  or  in  reverse 

direction  (not  more  than  10  hrs.) 

{Same,  including  Gernsbach  or  Schloss  Eberstein   . 
iSame,  including  Gernsbach  and  Schloss  Eberstein  . 


®  a* 

■33  * 

a 

1*3 


m. 

Pf- 

4 

60 

6 

— 

5 

50 

5 



9 

— 

7 

50 

7 

— 

9 

50 

9 

. 

11 

— 

10 

50 

14 

18 

— 

21 

— 

Horses  (Berthold-Str.  6):  1-2  hrs.  6  m. 

Donkeys:  for  1  hour  lm.  35  pf.,  each  additional  hour  or  fraction  of 
an  hour  85  pf. 

Visitors1  Tax.  Since  the  abolition  of  the  gaming-tables  the  following 
tariff  for  admission  to  the  Conversationshaus  and  grounds  (during  the  sea- 
son) has  been  fixed  (tickets  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds) :  for  one  day, 
1  pers.  50  pf.,  for  ten  days  3m. ;  for  one  month,  1  pers.  6m.,  2  pers.  10  m., 
3  pers.  12m.,  etc.  —  All  the  tickets  entitle  holders  to  use  the  reading- 
room  and  attend  the  ordinary  concerts,  and  the  monthly  and  yearly  tickets 
(procured  at  the  Conversationshaus)  give  admission  to  the  'reunions',  sym- 
phony-concerts ,  and  'matinees  musicales\  —  Balls  every  Saturday  during 
the  season.    Good  concerts  frequently. 

Music  in  front  of,  or  in  the  Conversationshaus,  7-8  a.m. ,  34  and  8-10  p.m. 

Theatre.  Performances  on  Wednesdays  (actors  from  the  Carlsruhe 
theatre);  during  the  season  twiee  weekly. 

Races  -at  Ifezheim  (near  Oos,  p.  314),  at  the  end  of  August  and  at  the 
beginning  of  September  and  of  October. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offioe  (PI.  11)  in  the  Leopolds-Plats. 

English  Churoh,  consecrated  in  1867;  services  at  8  a.m.,  11  a.m.,  and 


316     Route  46.  BADEN.  Pfarrkirchc. 

\ 
7  p.m.  (see  also  p.  319).     Chaplain,  Rev.  Archibald  White.  Maria- Victoria- 
Str.  11. 

Baden  has  the  reputation  of  being  an  expensive  watering-place,  and 
probably  is  so  to  those  who  live  at  the  first-class  hotels,  attend  all  the 
numerous  concerts,  and  liberally  patronise  the  shops  and  bazaars ;  but  many 
of  the  advantages  of  the  place  may  be  enjoyed  without  very  serious  inroad 
on  the  finances.  A  respectable  private  lodging  may  be  procured  for  10-20  m. 
a  week ,  the  farther  from  the  Gursaal ,  the  cheaper  (e.  g.  at  one  of  the 
numerous  villas  near  the  railway-station,  such  as  the  Villa  Haug,  or  at  the 
village  of  Lichtenthal,  l'/j  M.  distant).  The  lodgings  in  the  Sophien-Strasse 
are  pleasant  and  comfortable,  but  somewhat  expensive.  Breakfast  in  the 
lodging-houses  costs  40-60  pf.  •,  dinner  at  one  of  the  houses  mentioned  at 
p.  315,  lV2-2m.;  baths  40  pf.  to  2  m.  50  pf.  and  upwards.  —  The  thermal 
•water  may  be  drunk  at  the  Trinkhalle  and  Friedrichsbad  free  of  charge ; 
other  kinds  of  mineral  water  are  supplied  at  fixed  rates.  Whey  or  goats*- 
milk,  20  pf.  per  glass. 

Distances:  From  Baden  to  Lichtenthal  lVsH.,  Qeroldsau  3H.,  Water- 
fall 5  M. ,  Yburg  6  M. ,  Fremersberg  4  M. ,  Jagdschloss  3  M. ,  Old  Castle  3 
M.,  Ebersteinburg  4  M. ,  Teufelskanzel  3  M. ,  Mercuriutberg  6  M. ,  Eberstein- 
schloss  8  M. ,  Favorite  7  M.  -,  to  Forbach  by  Schmalbach  and  Bermersbach 
(p.  338)  9  M. ;  Sand  12  M. ;  Badener  Hdhe  and  Hen-entries  13'/2  M. 

Baden  (600  ft.),  or  Baden-Baden  (to  distinguish  it  from  the 
Baden  near  Vienna  and  that  in  Switzerland),  lies  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Black  Forest,  among  picturesque,  well-wooded  hills,  in  the 
delightful  valley  of  the  Oos,  or  Oel-Bach,  and  vies  with  Heidel- 
berg and  Freiburg  in  the  beauty  of  its  situation.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  popular  watering-places  in  Europe,  and  is  rivalled  in  Ger- 
many by  Wiesbaden  only.  The  number  of  visitors  has  risen  from 
2460  in  1815  to  more  than  40,000  annually.  The  season  lasts  from 
1st  May  to  31st  October,  and  is  at  its  height  from  the  end  of  August 
to  the  middle  of  October.  Even  in  winter  a  considerable  number  of 
strangers  now  reside  here.  The  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious.  The 
efficacy  of  the  waters  was  known  to  the  Romans,  who  called  it  Ci- 
vitas  Aurelia  Aquensis.  For  six  centuries  Baden  was  the  seat  of 
the  Margraves  of  Baden,  of  whom  Hermann  IV.  (d.  1190  in  the 
Crusades)  first  resided  in  the  old  castle.  The  new  castle,  above  the 
town,  was  erected  by  the  Margrave  Christopher  (d.  1527),  but  both 
town  and  castle  suffered  so  much  during  the  Thirty  Years'  War  and 
the  war  of  the  Palatinate  (1689)  that  the  Margraves  soon  after  trans- 
ferred their  residence  to  Rastatt. 

The  town  (11,900  inhab. ,  chiefly  Roman  Catholic)  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oosbach,  and  extends  up  the  slope  of  a 
spur  of  the  Battert,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  grand- 
ducal  chateau.    Farther  to  the  S.  rises  the  — 

Pfarrkirche,  or  Stiftskifche  (PI.  5 ;  C,  3 ;  always  open  in  the 
morning),  erected  in  the  7th  cent.,  raised  to  the  dignity  of  an 
abbey-church  in  1453,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1689,  repaired  in  1753, 
and  restored  in  the  original  style  in  1866.  The  choir  contains 
*MonumenU  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Margraves  of  Baden,  from  Bern- 
hard  I.  (d.  1431)  downwards,  and  some  modern  stained-glass.  The 
church  lies  at  a  height  of  600  ft.  above  the  sea. 

Adjacent  to  the  church,  on  the  S.  slope  of  the  Schlossberg,  are 


Neue  Schloss.  BADEN.  46.  Route.     317". 

the  Hot  Springs,,  the  chief  of  which  have  been  united  in  the  same 
channel.  They  yield  upwards  of  100  gallons  per  minute,  and  vary 
from  113°  to  158°  Fahr.  in  temperature.  The  principal  efficacy  of 
the  water  consists  in  its  high  natural  temperature,  the  solid  in- 
gredients, chiefly  chloride  of  sodium,  amounting  only  to  three  per 
cent.  The  latest  analysis  has  also  detected  some  slight  traces  of 
arsenic. 

The  principal  bath-house  is  the  new  "Friedrichsbad  (PI.  10; 
C  3),  an  imposing  Renaissance  edifice  designed  by  Dernfeld^  and 
erected  in  1869-77,  rising  in  terraces  from  the  Stei<n-Strasse,  close 
to  the  springs.  The  exterior  is  executed  in  red  and  white  sand- 
stone, and  embellished  with  statues,  busts,  and  medallions.  In  the 
completeness  and  elegance  of  its  internal  arrangements  the  estab- 
lishment is  perhaps  unrivalled  by  any  other  of  the  kind  in  the 
world. 

The  first  floor  contains  hot  and  cold  plunge-baths  (70  pf.  to  1  m.),  sitz- 
baths  (1-2  m.),  electric  baths  (3  m.)?  an  inhaling  room  (50  pf.).  etc.  On  the 
second  floor  are  baths  for  bathing  in  company,  vapour  and  douche  baths 
(1  m.  30  pf.),  Turkish  baths,  and  large  swimming-baths  with  cold  and 
warm  water.  On  the  third  floor  are  the  Ftirstenbader,  or  baths  of  the  most 
luxurious  description  (10  m.),  and  also  vapour  baths  (1  m.).  —  One  half 
of  each  floor  is  assigned  to  ladies,  the  other  to  gentlemen.  The  second 
floor  contains  a  promenading-room  (adm.  for  non-bathers  20  pf.).  Some  of 
these  charges  are  raised  in  the  forenoon  during  the  season.  —  Admission 
to  view  the  interior,  1  m. 

Above  the  Friedrichsbad  is  the  AUe  D  amp  f bad,  built  in  1846. 
During  its  construction  extensive  remains  of  Roman  Baths  were 
discovered ,  but  they  have  since  been  built  over.  —  The  Lithium 
Springy  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  Friedrichsbad,  is  considered  effi- 
cacious in  cases  of  gout ;  its  waters  are  often  drunk  mixed  with 
Carlsbad  salts.  Other  springs  are  conducted  by  pipes  to  the  hotels 
and  the  public  hot-wells  in  the  town. 

The  Neue  Sehlosa  (PI.  C,  2),  on  the  hill  to  the  N.  of  the  town, 
founded  in  1479,  enlarged  in  1530  and  1570-80,  seriously  damaged 
in  1689 ,  and  since  partially  restored ,  was  fitted  up  as  a  summer- 
residence  for  the  Grand  Duke  in  1842.  The  W.  gateway,  with  its 
Gothic  vaulting,  leads  into  the  court  (bell  to  the  left  for  the 
castellan,  1-1  Va  m0»  on  tne  E.  side  of  which  is  the  handsome  Re- 
naissance chateau.  It  contains  a  number  of  handsome  saloons  and 
the  apartments  of  the  grand-duke  and  duchess,  adorned  with  several 
good  modern  pictures ,  carving ,  family-portraits ,  etc.  The  curious 
subterranean  vaults  with  stone  and  iron  doors  were  probably  once 
used  as  dungeons. 

The  beautiful  *Plbasubb  Gbounds  extending  along  the  left 
back  of  the  Oos,  which  flows  for  a  long  distance  through  an  artificial 
channel,  and  along  the  W.  slopes  of  the  valley,  form  the  chief  resort 
of  visitors.  The  busiest  points  are  the  Trinkhalle .  and  the  Con- 
versationshaus,  and  the  main  stream  of  traffic  follows  the  Lichten-* 
thaler  Allee  towards  the,S.    The  grounds  are  enclosed  by  a  fence, 


318     Route  46.  BADEN.  Theatre. 

and  daring  the  season  holders  of  the  tickets  mentioned  at  p.  315 
are  alone  admitted. 

The  Trinkhalle  (PI.  B,  3),  designed  by  Hubsch,  and  erected  in 
1839-42,  96  yds.  in  length,  with  a  colonnade  of  16  Corinthian  col- 
umns in  front,  is  most  frequented  from  7  to  8  in  the  morning, 
when  the  band  plays  and  the  waters  are  drunk.  The  relief  in  the 
tympanum,  by  Reich,  represents  the  nymph  of  the  springs  admin- 
istering health  to  sufferers  of  every  kind.  The  somewhat  faded 
frescoes  in  the  arcades,  by  Qotzenberger,  represent  fourteen  legends 
of  the  Black  Forest.  —  The  grounds  in  front  of  the  Trinkhalle  are 
adorned  with  a  marble  Bust  of  Emperor  WilUam,  by  Kopf  of  Rome, 
erected  in  1875. 

A  few  paces  farther  is  the  *Conver§ationsh&ui  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  de- 
signed by  Weinbrenner,  erected  in  1824,  and  considerably  enlarged 
in  1854.  The  building,  125  yds.  in  length,  is  preceded  in  the  centre 
by  a  portico  of  8  columns. 

The  ^Interior  contains  the  ball,  concert,  reading,  and  other  rooms, 
which  were  gorgeously  fitted  up  by  M.  Benazet,  the  late  lessee  of  the 
gaming-tables,  from  designs  by  the  best  Parisian  masters.  Immediately 
within  the  colonnade  is  the  Great  Saloon,  54  yds.  long  and  17  yds. 
wide,  where  the  band  plays  in  the  evening  in  unfavourable  weather.  To 
the  left  are  the  so-called  Landscape  Saloon  ,  the  Italian  Saloon  ,  and 
the  Flower  Saloon*,  to  the  right  the  Renaissance  Saloon,  containing 
the  well  supplied  Reading  Boom.  The  so-called  *New  Saloons,  opened 
in  1854,  and  used  for  concerts  and  other  purposes,  fitted  up  in  the  Re- 
naissance style  of  Louis  XIII.  and  Louis  XIV. ,  are  still  more  sumptuous 
than  the  old  (shown  for  a  fee).  —  MarxU  Book  Shop,  in  the  N.  wing  of 
the  building,  also  contains  a  well-stocked  reading-room.  The  S.  wing 
contains  the  restaurant  (p.  815). 

The  band  which  plays  in  front  of  the  Gonversationshaus,  7-8 
a.m.  and  3-4  and  8-10  p.m.,  always  attracts  a  large  assemblage  of 
the  fashionable  world,  and  on  fine  Sunday  afternoons  the  grounds 
are  crowded  with  visitors  from  Strassburg,  Garlsruhe,  and  other 
neighbouring  places.  The  small  avenue  leading  to  the  Leopolds- 
brucke ,  to  the  £.  of  the  Gonyersationshaus,  contains  the  Bazaar, 
consisting  of  two  rows  of  stalls  of  various  wares. 

On  the  S.  side  of  this  Platz  is  the  Theatre  (PI.  13 ;  B,  4),  built 
by  Derchy  in  1861 ,  and  richly  fitted  up  from  designs  by  Couteau. 
Between  the  theatre  and  the  Gonversationshaus  is  Messmer's  H6tel 
Garni  (PI.  9) ,  where  the  Emperor  and  Empress  lodge  when  at  Ba- 
den. —  In  the  Werder-Strasse ,  behind  the  Conversationshaus,  Is 
the  studio  of  Professor  Kopf,  the  sculptor,  to  which  visitors  are  ad- 
mitted on  Thursday  afternoons  from  July  to  October.  — •  The  Kunst- 
halle  (PI.  8),  at  the  back  of  the  theatre ,  contains  an  exhibition  of 
pictures  (adm.  50  pf.).  In  the  Kronprinzen-Strasse,  farther  up  the 
hill,  is  the  new  Kunstlerhaus,  containing  the  studios  of  several  ar- 
tists. 

The  Leopoldsbrucke  leads  to  the  Lbopolds-Platz  ,  which  is 
embellished  with  a  bronze  Statue  of  Grand  Duke  Leopold  (PI.  3 ; 
1.  1852),  erected  by  the  'grateful  town  of  Baden*  in  1861.     The 


Lichtenthal.  BADEN.  46.  Route.     319 

Sophibn-Stbassb,  to  the  £.  of  this  Platz,  is  bordered  with  trees, 
and  forms  another  promenade.  —  In  the  newS.  quarter  of  the  town 
are  the  Protestant  Church  (Pi.  6),  designed  by  Eisenlohr,  and  the 
English  Church  (PL  7).  The  latter  contains  several  handsome 
stained-glass  windows,  a  fine  candelabrum  presented  by  the  Em- 
press of  Germany ,  and  a  lectern  given  by  the  Grand  Duchess  of 
Baden.   Adjacent  is  a  swimming-bath. 

On  the  Michaelsberg  rises  the  'Greek  Church  (PI.  A,  3),  erected 
in  1863-66  (from  designs  by  Klenze  of  Munieh)  as  a  tomb  for  the 
Roumanian  prince  Michael  Stourdza ,  who  died  at  Baden  in  1863. 
in  his  17th  year.  The  roof  and  dome  are  gilded ;  the  interior  is 
sumptuously  decorated  with  gold,  marble,  and  painting.  Key  at  the 
house  No.  2;  fee  50  pf.  —  A  little  to  the  S.  is  the  Villa  Solma- 
Braunfels,  built  by  Oppler,  the  *Interior  of  which  is  fitted  up  in  a 
medieval  style  (apply  to  the  castellan).  Farther  up  is  the  Written- 
bcrg,  the  pretty  forest-paths  on  which  afford  beautiful  views. 

Envieons  op  Badbn. 

The  most  attractive  walk  in  the  vicinity  of  Baden  is  the  *Lich- 
tenthaler  Allee  (PI.  B,  4,  5,  6),  ascending  the  left  bank  of  the 
Oos,  and  much  frequented  in  the  afternoon.  The  avenue  consists 
of  fine  old  oaks,  limes,  and  maples,  bordered  with  flower-beds  and 
shrubberies,  and  embellished  with  fountains.  On  both  sides  of  the 
brook  a  number  of  handsome  villas  have  sprung  up,  and  their  num- 
ber is  steadily  increasing.  On  the  right,  about  halfway  to  Lichten- 
thal,  is  the  tree  which  was  struck  by  the  bullet  fired  at  King  (now 
Emperor)  William  by  Oscar  Becker  on  14th  July,  1861.  The  lower 
part  of  it  is  covered  to  protect  it  against  relic-hunters. 

On  the  8.  side  of  the  Lichtenthaler  Allee  lie  two  small  valleys,  through 
the  first  of  which  we  may  reach  the  Sauersberg  (930  ft.  \  pleasant  view 
from  the  Birkenkopf)  in  Vahr.,  and  the  Yburg  (p.  320)  farther  on.  A  side- 
path  leads  to  the  prettily-situated  Whey-cure  Establishment  (refreshments). 
—  The  Qunzenbachthal y  the  second  of  these  valleys,  is  interesting  to 
mineralogists.  The  "Leopoldshdh*,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  commands 
a  fine  view. 

About  l1^  M.  from  the  Conversationshaus  we  reach  ~~ 

Lichtenthal.  —  *Bab,  with  restaurant  and  pleasant  garden,  R.  about 
15  m.  per  week,  D.  2  m.  ;  *Ludwigsbad,  with  a  chalybeate  spring,  D,  1  m. 
80 pf.;  *L6w£,  D.  IV2,  'pens.'  from  4m.;  Kbeuz,  unpretending.  —  Several 
Breweries  at  the  entrance  to  the  village.  —  Omnibus  from  Baden,  starting 
from  the  station,  to  Lichtenthal  3  times  daily,  56  pf. 

At  Lichtenthal  (610  ft.),  formerly  called  Unter-Beuern,  a  village 
with  3500  inhab.,  is  situated  the  Nunnery  of  Ltchtbnthal  (to 
the  right,  beyond  the  bridge),  which  was  founded  in  1245  by  Irmeu- 
gard,  grand-daughter  of  Henry  the  Lion  and  widow  of  Hermann  IV. 
of  Baden ,  and  was  taken  by  the  Margraves  of  Baden  under  their 
special  protection.  The  convent  has  escaped  the  devastations  of 
war  and  the  ravages  of  time ,  and  is  still  occupied  by  Cistercian 
nuns.    The  Church,  which  has  no  aisles,  contains  the  Tomb  of  the 


320    Route  46.  BADEN..  Yburg. 

foundress  (d.  1260),  consisting  of  a  sarcophagus  and  fine  figure  of 
the  Margravine.  Adjoinining  the  church  and  connected  with  it 
by  an  archway  is  the  Todtencapelle  (mortuary  chapel),  built  in 
the  Gothic  style  in  1288,  and  restored  in  1830.  It  contains  tomb- 
stones of  Margraves  of  Baden-Durlach ,  and  altar-pieces  by  the  old 
German  master  Hans  Baldung,  surnamed  Grien.  The  Orphan  Asy- 
lum, within  the  precincts  of  the  convent,  was  founded  by  the  wealthy 
and  benevolent  London  tailor  Stulz,  who  was  afterwards  ennobled. 
In  front  of  the  nunnery  is  a  War  Monument  for  1870-71. 

The  pine-clad  Caecilienberg ,  immediately  behind  the  nunnery, 
a  spur  of  the  Klosterberg  (1760  ft.),  affords  pleasant  walks  and 
charming  views.  Higher  up,  on  the  hill  between  the  valleys  of 
Beuren  and  Geroldsau,  rises  the  Parish  Church  with  its  lofty  tower. 

On  the  SeeUch  (890  ft.),  the  opposite  height,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Geroldsau  (ascended  from  the  nunnery  in  7«  hr.  \  road  to  the  right  of  the 
parish-church ,  footpath  to  the  left) ,  stands  the  villa  of  Count  Krepto- 
witsch,  in  the  medieeval  style,  a  fine  point  of  view  (restaurant  adjacent). 

From  Lichtenthal  the  road  ascends  the  Bburbnbr  Thal,  pass- 
ing several  houses  and  hamlets,  to  (l1/*  M.)  Ober-Beuern  (692  ft.; 
*  Waldhorn ,  above  the  door  of  which  is  the  laughing  head  of  the 
late  host,  from  a  model  by  the  well-known  French  sculptor  Van- 
tan,  d.  1869).  The  valley  now  contracts.  To  the  right,  close  to 
the  road ,  is  the  (}/2  M.)  Gaisbach  Piscicultural  Establishment 
(*Inn  and  Restaurant),  situated  amid  pleasant  grounds  in  a  pictur- 
esque nook  of  the  valley,  and  a  favourite  point  for  excursions  from 
Baden  (by  carr.  in  %  hr. ;  omn.  thrice  daily,  75  pf. ;  adm.  to  the 
breeding-pans  1  m.).  A  road  diverges  here  to  the  right ,  which 
ascends  the  Oosthal  to  Schmalbach  (Forbach),  comp.  p.  338. 

About  3U  M.  beyond  Gaisbach  the  hamlet  of  MulUnbaeh  (Inn ; 
1056  ft.)  is  reached,  after  which  the  road  ascends  very  circuitously 
(pedestrians  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  proceeding  straight  on 
from  the  inn)  to  the  so-called  Mullenbild  (1263  ft.) ,  where  it 
divides  into  two  branches,  that  to  the  left  descending  to  Gernsbach, 
and  that  to  the  right  leading  at  nearly  the  same  level  to  Schloss 
Eberstein  (8  M.  from  Baden,  see  p.  323 ;  comp.  the  Maps  at  pp. 
314,  315). 

Near  Lichtenthal,  on  the  S.W.,  opens  the  Geroldsau,  a  pretty 
grassy  valley  fringed  with  wood,  where  (l1^  M.)  the  village  of  that 
name  (741  ft.;  Hirsek)  is  situated.  Beyond  the  village  the  valley, 
which  is  watered  by  the  Grobach,  becomes  more  secluded ;  3/4  M. 
the  * Geroldsau  Waterfall  (1119  ft.;  *Restaurant).  A  road  leads  from 
Geroldsau  by  Malschbach  and  Neuweier  (*Lamm),  famed  for  its  wine, 
to  (6  M.)  Steinbach  (p.  325).  To  the  Yburg  (see  below),  4i/2  M. 

The  ancient  Yburg  (1695  ft.),  like  Alt-Eberstein  once  a  Roman 
watch-tower,  and  still  in  good  preservation,  rises  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 
Baden.  The  massive  ruins,  surrounded  by  dark  pines,  form  a  magni- 
ficent foreground  to  the  broad  valley  of  the  Rhine  beyond.  A  good 
carriage-road  (diverging  to  the  right  at  No.  6,  Lichtenthaler  Allee) 


Alte  Schloss.  BADEN.  46.  Route.     321 

leads  to  the  castle.  For  pedestrians  the  shortest  way  is  by  the  Selig- 
hof,  and  then  through  the  valley  to  the  right.  Inn,  with  good  wine, 
at  the  top.   From  the  Yburg  to  Stcinbach  (p.  325),  4i/2  M. 

The  Fremenberg  (1728  ft.)  is  a  wooded  hill  (without  a  view)  1  hr. 
to  the  W.  of  Baden.  Ascending  from  the  Conversationshaus,  the  traveller 
first  reaches  the  (V«  hr.)  Beutig ,  a  height  commanding  several  views; 
pleasant  forest-paths  then  lead  past  the  lower  Selighof  to  the  suppressed 
monastery  of  Fremersberg,  now  the  Villa  Luitjent.  The  well-kept  grounds 
on  the  W.  slope  of  the  hill  are  usually  closed.  We  return  by  the 
Jagdhaus  (797  ft.;  Inn,  fine  view)  and  Badenscheuren ;  or  by  Winden  and 
Sintheim  (p.  325).     To  Steinbach  (p.  325)  bv  Gallenbach,  3  M. 

The  Altb  Schloss  (1  hr.),  lying  1000  ft.  above  Baden  to  the  N., 
is  reached  by  a  carriage-road  (comp.  PI.  C,  2,  D,  2,  1).  Beyond 
the  donkey-station  (tariff,  see  p.  315),  the  bridle-path  diverges  to 
the  right,  traversing  fragrant  pine  -  plantations  (direction-posts  at 
doubtful  points).  About  half-way  we  reach  (on  the  left,  near  the 
path)  the  SophUnruhe  (1046ft.),  a  projecting  rock  with  a  pavilion, 
beyond  which  is  a  fresh  spring. 

The  *Alte  Schlois  Hohenbaden  (1610  ft. ;  '"Restaurant  with 
shady  terrace)  is  an  extensive  structure  situated  on  a  buttress  of 
the  Battert,  the  walls  of  which  probably  date  in  part  from  the 
3rd  cent.,  when  the  Romans  constructed  some  fortifications  here. 
From  the  12th  cent,  until  the  construction  of  the  New  Castle  (p.  317) 
it  was  the  seat  of  the  Margraves.  The  so-called  Rittersaal  dates 
from  the  end  of  the  14th  century.  Since  its  destruction  by  the 
French  in  1689  the  castle  has  been  a  complete  ruin,  but  the  tower 
has  been  rendered  accessible  by  means  of  stairs.  The  **View  from 
the  top  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  from  Speyer  to  a  point  far 
beyond  Strassburg  (not  itself  visible) ;  in  the  foreground  lies  the 
charming  valley  of  Baden ,  with  its  bright  villas ,  its  light-green 
woods  of  beech  and  oak,  and  its  sombre  pine-forests. 

To  theS.,  on  the  summit  of  the  Battert  (1854  ft.),  which  may  be 
reached  from  the  Schloss  in  i/4  hr.  (finger-post),  rise  the  precipitous 
Telften  (' rocks'),  a  number  of  fantastically-cleft  masses  of  porphyry. 
A  good  path  leads  through  this  chaos  of  rock ,  of  which  the  Felsen- 
brucke,  commanding  a  magnificent  view,  is  the  finest  point.  A 
picturesque  path  leads  from  the  Schloss  along  the  foot  of  the  Felsen 
towards  theE.,  after  following  which  for  20-25  min.  we  may  ascend 
the  high-road  to  the  right  to  (l1^  M.)  Ebersteinburg  (see  below). 

The  route  from  Baden  to  (4  M.)  Ebersteinburg  is  by  the  old 
Gernsbach  road  (PL  D,  3),  ascending  the  valley  to  the  E.  between 
the  Battert  and  the  Mercurius.  On  the  saddle  of  the  hill  (1224ft.), 
near  which  rises  a  huge  rock  known  as  the  Teufelskanzcl,  the  Eber- 
steinburg road  diverges  to  the  left.  A  little  farther  on  is  a  finger- 
post ,  also  on  the  left ,  indicating  the  way  to  the  romantic  Wolfs- 
schlucht,  through  the  woods  of  which  we  may  ascend  to  the  village 
of  Eberstein. 

From  the  village  of  Eberateinburg (Krone) we  ascend  in  10  min.  to 
the  top  of  the  isolated  eminence  which  bears  the  ruins  of  the  castle 
Bardbkeb'b  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  21 


322     Route  46.  OERNSBAGH. 

of  *Alt-£berstein,  or  the  Eberstcinburg (ib§8  ft. ;  Restaurant).  The 
castle  stands  on  Roman  substructions,  and  the  present  edifice  dates 
from  the  10th-14th  centuries.  It  was  once  the  seat  of  the  Counts 
of  Eberstein ,  and  afterwards  ame  into  the  possession  of  the  Mar- 
graves of  Baden. 

A  charming  ballad  by  Uhland  is  founded  on  an  old  legend  connected 
with  this  cutle.  At  a  ball  given  by  the  emperor  (Otho  I.),  the  Count  of 
Eberstein  is  said  to  have  been  informed  by  the  emperor's  daughter  of 
her  father's  intention  to  take  possession  of  the  castle;  whereupon  he 
hastened  home  and  defended  his  stronghold  with  such  spirit  that  the 
emperor  was  struck  with  admiration  and  gave  him  his  daughter  in  mar- 
riage. The  tower  (fee  20  pf.)  commands  a  beautiful  view,  especially  in 
the  direction  of  the  fertile  lower  part  of  the  Murgthal. 

The  Mercuriusberg,  the  highest  mountain  near  Baden ,  may  be 
ascended  in  l*/2  hr.  by  one  of  several  different  routes.  The  car- 
riage-road diverges  on  the  above-mentioned  saddle  of  the  hill  to 
the  right  from  the  old  Gernsbach  road ,  passes  near  the  Teufels- 
kanzel,  and  leads  to  the  top  in  long  windings  in  less  than  an  hour. 
—  Pedestrians  had  better  start  from  the  Scheiben-Strasse  in  Baden 
( PL  D,  3,  4),  and  take  the  route  over  the  Heslich  (or  Schonberg, 
1053  ft. ;  Inn  'Zum  Annaberg'),  a  spur  of  the  Mercuriusberg 
(numerous  finger-posts).  Or  we  may  start  from  Lichtenthal  and 
ascend  across  the  Schafberg  (1076  ft.).  —  The  summit  of  the 
Mercuriusberg,  or  Orosse  Staufen  (2205  ft.),  is  occupied  by  a 
tower  which  commands  a  very  extensive  *View  (key  at  the  adjoin- 
ing inn ,  10  pf.).  The  mountain  derives  its  name  from  a  Roman 
votive  stone  found  here,  and  now  preserved  in  a  small  niche  made 
for  its  reception.  —  The  above-mentioned  carriage-road  passes 
near  the  summit  of  the  Mercuriusberg,  skirts  the  W.  slope  of  the 
KUine  Staufenberg  (2050  ft. \  and  at  theMullenbild,  above  Mullen- 
bach,  joins  the  new  road  to  Gernsbach  (p.  320).  Pedestrians  may 
reach  Gernsbach  from  the  Mercuriusberg  in  1  hr.  via  Staufen- 
berg  (see  below),  by  taking  the  path  to  the  E.  at  the  bifurcation  of 
the  roads  on  the  Binsenwasen  (1696  ft. ;  finger-post). 

From  Baden  to  Gb&nsbach  by  the  new  road  via  Lichtenthal 
and  Beuern  (p.  320),  8  M.  j  by  the  old  road  mentioned  above, 
6  M.  —  Those  who  have  walked  from  the  Alte  Schloss  to  Eber- 
steinburg  reach  the  latter  of  these  roads  a  little  below  the  top  of 
the  hill  (1224  ft.).  Fine  view  of  the  Murgthal  in  descending.  On 
the  right,  after  about  1  M.,  where  the  road  again  ascends  a  little, 
is  the  Neuhau*,  a  solitary  inn.  The  road  then  descends  the  hill- 
side to  the  left  to  Gernsbach.  The  following  short-cut  may  be 
taken:  about  8  min.  beyond  the  Neuhaus  descend  by  a  steep  road 
to  the  right;  1/4  nr-  Staufenberg ;  1/2  hr»  Gernsbach.  (Gomp.  the 
Map,  p.  314). 

Gernsbach.  —  Hotels.  *  Kiefernadelbad  ,  pine-cone  baths  and 
hotel,  above  the  village,  E.  2-3,  D.  2  m.  50,  B.  90,  bath  1  m.,  'pens.'  4m. 
50 pf.  —  *Stern,  "Krone,  R.  l>/2-2,  D.  2,  'pens.'  from  4m.;  *Lowe,  * Wildkr 
Mann,  near  the  station,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Murg,  both  unpretend- 
ing; Adi,er,  in  the  market-place.  —  In  Scheuern,  1/4  M.  above  Gernsbach  : 


LOFFENAU.  47.  Route.     323 

PxnsJon  Zimmkbmann,  board  372-4  m.  per  day,  E.  10-15,  with  2  beds  15-20  m. 
a  week. 

Carriages  to  Schloss  Eberstein  3'/2,  Baden  9l/a,  Baden  via  Schloss  Eber- 
stein i0'/2,  Forbach  9,  Schonmtinzach  16,  Wildbach  25  m.  One-horse  car- 
riages about  one-third  less.  At  night  a  fare  and  a  half.  These  char- 
ges are  supposed  to  include  the  driver's  gratuity,  but  it  is  well  to  make 
an  arrangement  with  him  before  starting. 

Qernsbaeh  (692  ft.),  the  terminus  of  the  railway  from  Rastatt 
(p.  313),  on  the  Murg,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a  new  bridge,  is 
an  ancient  and  thriving  little  town  ,  with  about  2500  inhab.,  and 
now  frequently  resorted  to  as  a  summer-residence.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  'Murgthalschiifer-Gesellflchaft',  a  company  which 
has  been  established  for  centuries  and  owns  about  16,000  acres  of 
forest  (comp.  p.  337).  The  *Rathhausy  with  its  corner-oriel,  built 
in  1617,  is  a  good  example  of  the  Renaissance  style.  The  Protestant 
Church  contains  the  tombs  of  several  Counts  of  Eberstein. 

From  the  road  ascending  the  valley  of  the  Murg  (p.  337),  */2  M. 
from  Gernsbacb,  a  new  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  (jt1/2M.)*Schlo§s 
Eberstein (1017 ft.),  founded  in  the  13th  cent.,  afterwards  destroyed, 
and  in  1798  restored  under  the  name  of  l Neu  -  Eberstein' .  It  is 
delightfully  situated  on  a  wooded  eminence ,  high  above  the  Murg. 
The  beautiful  and  extensive  *View  embraces  the  picturesque  Murg- 
thal,  upwards  nearly  to  Rauhmtinzach,  and  downwards  as  far  as  the 
Rhine  valley.  It  contains  ancient  relics,  weapons,  armour,  etc.,  and 
in  one  of  the  apartments  pictures  of  the  16th  century.  —  Pedestrians 
may  reach  Baden  from  Schloss  Eberstein  in  23/4  hrs.  by  the  road 
mentioned  at  p.  320,  viaMullenbach,  Oberbeuern,  and  Lichtenthal. 
Carriages  take  ll/-i  hr.   The  road  leads  at  first  through  fine  woods. 

Among  the  woods  1  M.  from  the  station  of  Kuppenheim  (p.  314),  and 
6  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Baden,  rises  the  Favorite,  a  chateau  of  the  Grand 
Duke,  erected  in  1725,  in  the  rococo  style,  by  the  Margravine  8ibylla  Augusta, 
widow  of  the  Margrave  Lewis  William  (d.  1707),  who  after  the  death  of 
her  husband,  superintended  the  education  of  her  sons  for  nineteen  years, 
and  then  retired  to  this  spot.  The  interior  is  decorated  in  the  taste  of 
the  period  and  has  been  preserved  unaltered.     Small  restaurant. 

47.  From  Baden  to  Wildbad. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  314. 

28  M.  From  Gernsbach  to  Herrenalb,  8M.,  diligence  daily;  thence  to 
Wildbad  on  foot  in  about  4  hrs. 

Railway  from  Durlach  vid  Pforzheim  to  Wildbad,  see  p.  306. 

From  Baden  to  Qernsbaeh,  8  M.,  see  last  route.  The  road  enters 
the  dominions  of  Wurtemberg  2y2  M.  farther ,  and  then  reaches 
(iM.)- 

Loffenan  (Adler;  Stern;  Lowe),  a  long  village,  with  a  modern 
Gothic  church  of  red  sandstone.  In  the  middle  of  the  village  a  path  to 
the  right  leads  to  the  Teufelsmuhle  (2985  ft.),  a  conspicuous  moun- 
tain to  the  right,  the  slopes  of  which  are  covered  with  blocks  of  red 
sandstone.  The  summit  (llfa  hr.)  commands  a  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive  view.  Seven  hollows  in  the  sandstone  on  the  S.  slope,  pro- 
bably eroded  by  water,  are  termed  the  lDeviVs  Chamber  s\ 

21* 


324    Route  47.  WILDBAD. 

From  Loffenau  the  road  ascends  to  the  (2  M.)  Kappele,  whence 
we  obtain  a  fine  'Retrospect  of  the  Murgthal.  At  this  point  pedes- 
trians take  the  road  to  the  right  (the  'Alto  Weg'),  which  leads  in 
3/4  hr.,  through  wood,  to  — 

Herrenalb  (*Ocha  or  Post ;  Sonne ;  Bellevue ;  Waldhorn ;  Villa 
Falkenstein,  R.  12-20 m.  per  week;  Villa Hummelsburg ;  Dr.  Tull- 
mann's  Hydropathic),  a  village  frequented  on  account  of  its  equable 
and  somewhat  moist  climate.  The  once  celebrated  Benedictine  abbey, 
founded  by  a  Count  of  Eberstein  in  1148,  was  destroyed  by  the 
Swedes  in  1642.  The  church  contains  the  tomb  of  the  Margrave 
Bernhard  of  Baden  (d.  1431),  with  a  recumbent  figure.  In  the 
churchyard  are  remains  of  cloisters  of  the  12th  cent.,  with  round 
arches  supported  by  small  columns,  containing  tombs  of  the  abbots. 
The  portal  towards  the  road  is  of  the  15th  century.  In  the  distance, 
farther  down  the  Albthal ,  the  suppressed  Abbey  of  Frauenalb  is 
seen  on  a  rocky  eminence.  Pleasant  walk  of  20  min.  to  the  Falken- 
8tein,  a  huge  granite  rock  rising  from  the  valley.  Diligence  to  Ett- 
lingen,  see  p.  313 ;  to  Neuenburg  (14y2  M. ;  p.  306),  twice  daily. 

The  road  now  ascends  to  the  right  by  the  'Ochs'  inn  to  (3  M.)  a 
cross-road,  where  the  road  ascending  straight  through  the  wood  must 
be  followed.  The  (iy2  M.)  Dobel  (2195  ft.),  the  culminating  point 
of  the  route,  with  the  village  of  that  name  (Sonne  Inn),  commands 
an  extensive  view.  Then  a  descent  of  2^4 M.  over  stony,  shadeless 
slopes,  to  the  Eiach-Muhl  (Inn)  in  the  valley  of  the  Eiach,  a  stream 
navigable  for  rafts.  The  carriage-road  beyond  this  leads  to  the  right 
round  the  hill,  while  the  footpath  ascends  immediately  opposite 
the  mill,  uniting  with  the  road  halfway  up.  After  an  ascent  of  2  M. 
through  wood,  we  reach  the  summit  of  the  hill  which  separates  the 
parallel  valleys  of  the  Eiach  and  the  Enz ,  and  then  descend  to 
(2^2  M.)  Wildbad.  Pedestrians  may  avoid  the  windings  of  the 
latter  part  of  the  road  by  taking  a  footpath  on  the  right  which  ends 
in  a  number  of  steps. 

Wildbad.  —  Hotels.  *Bad-H6tel  •,  ""Bellevue  j  *Hotkl  Kxukpp,  or 
Bar  }  charges  at  these,  B.  2-3,  D.  3-5  m. ;  Trey  ;  *Keim  ;  Hotel  dk  Bdssie  ; 
Boss,  8onne,  Schifp,  unpretending.  —  Also  several  HCtels  Garni*  and 
lodging-houses.  Definite  bargains  desirable ,  especially  in  regard  to  the 
time  of  leaving.  —  Beer  at  Mick's.  —  Visitors'  tax  for  a  stay  of  a  week 
or  more,  8  m. 

WtW6ad(1411  ft.),  a  much-frequented  watering-place  with  3200 
inhab.,  lies  in  the  pine-clad  ravine  of  the  Enz,  on  both  sides  of  the 
stream.  The  greater  part  of  the  town,  with  the  principal  street,  the 
bath-establishments,  and  the  hotels,  is  on  the  right  bank;  the 
railway-station  lies  on  the  other  bank  at  the  N.  or  lower  end  of  the 
town.  In  the  Cur-Platz,  at  the  end  of  the  Hauptstrasse,  rises  the 
handsome  new  Curhaus,  with  cafe*,  reading,  and  ball-rooms,  and  baths 
admirably  fitted  up.  (Music  8-9  a.m.  and  6-7  p.m.)  The  thermal 
springs  (94-100°  FahrJ,  which  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  gout  and 
rheumatism,  rise  immediately  from  the  sand  in  the  baths  (three 


BUHL.  48.  Route.     325 

public  baths  for  each  sex,  capable  of  containing  22  persons  each; 
30  private  baths).  The  salutary  qualities  of  the  water,  which  con- 
tains no  mineral  ingredients,  are  ascribed  in  great  measure  to  its 
being  used  immediately  at  its  source.  The  baths  may  be  inspected 
between  12  and  1  (fee).  Annual  number  of  patients  about  6000. 
Pleasant  walks  and  grounds  on  both  sides  of  the  village ,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Enz:  on  the  S.  (upper)  side,  past  the  new  Roman 
Catholic  church,  as  far  as  the  (1  M.)  Windhof,  a  cafe*;  on  the  N. 
(lower)  side  to  the  (1 M.)  garden-restaurant  lZum  kuhlen  Brunneri, 
a  favourite  resort. 

Excuksions.  A  road  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Enz  to  (7l/a  M.)  Ent- 
klotterle  (*Waldhorn)  and  (3  M.)  Gumpelscheuer  (Lamm),  and  thence  to  (17  M.) 
Freudenstadt  (p.  339).  (From  Gumpelscheuer  across  the  hill  to  Schon- 
miinzach,  2  hrs.,  with  guide,  l-lV2m.)  —  Another  excursion  may  be  taken 
by  the  Hochwiesenhof  and  the  Ortinhiltte  to  the  (iy«  hr.)  small  Wildtee  or 
Jfornsee,  which  tradition  has  peopled  with  water-sprites,  and  thence  to  the 
(20min.)  shooting-lodge  of  Kaltenbronn  (2847  ft.:  *Inn),  and  the  (I1/4  M.) 
*Hohlohthurm  (3250  ft.),  a  fine  point  of  view.  Return  direct,  in  3  hrs.; 
in  all  6-7  hrs.  A  pleasant  forest-path  leads  from  Kaltenbronn  to  (7  M.) 
Forbach  (p.  338). 

The  following  is  a  very  interesting  excursion  for  a  whole  day  (one- 
horse  carr.  9,  two-horse  14m.).  and  is  also  recommended  to  pedestrians. 
Via  Calrribach  (see  p.  307)  to  C&U  M.)  Reichenbach  (Lowe).  Thence,  leaving 
the  main  road ,  by  a  bye-road  to  (6  M.)  Rothenbach  (view  of  Hohenzollern 
from  a  height  as  the  village  is  approached;  carriages  should  be  sent  on 
from  this  point  to  Teinach) ,  and  (274  M.)  ZaveUtein  (Lamm) ,  with  a  pic- 
turesque ruined  castle,  the  tower  of  which  commands  an  extensive  view. 
Descend  to  (ll/2  M.)  Teinach  (BadMtel,  6-10 m.  per  day  •,  Hirsch),  charmingly 
situated,  with  mineral  baths  and  a  hydropathic  establishment.  Thence 
down  to  the  (1  M.)  Nagoldthal ,  and  by  Kentheim  to  (3  M.)  Calw,  (1V«  M.) 
Hirsau  (Hirsch),  with  a  celebrated  ruined  monastery,  and  (33/4  M.)  Lie- 
benzell  ( Unteres  and  Oberes  Bad) ,  a  bath  with  warm  springs  of  long- 
established  repute,  pleasantly  situated,  and  commanded  by  a  ruined  castle. 
Thence  back  to  Wildbad  by  Hirsau  and  Calmbach. 

48.    From  Baden  to  Freiburg  and  BAle. 

Comp.  Maps,  pp.  314,  352. 

Railway  to  Fkkibueg  (66  M.)  in  2V2-4*/4  hrs.  (express  fares  10  m., 
6  m.  95  pf.  i  ordinary  8m.  86,  5m.  90,  3m.  75  pf.);  to  B«le  (106  M.)  in 
toft-V/i  hrs.  (express  fares  16  m.  30,  10m.  95  pf.;  ordinary  13m.  85,  9m. 
20,  5  m.  86  pf.).    Finest  views  to  the  left. 

Baden,  see  p.  314.  —  2*/2M.  Oos,  see  p.  314.  —  To  the  left  rise 
the  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest ;  in  the  foreground  stands  the 
gray  tower  of  the  Yburg  (p.  320).  4*/2  M.  Sinzheim.  Near  (6i/4  M.) 
Steinbach  (* Stern),  on  a  barren  hill  to  the  left,  is  a  red  sandstone 
monument  to  Erwin,  the  architect  of  Strassburg  cathedral,  supposed 
to  have  been  a  native  of  Steinbach  (d.  at  Strassburg,  1318).  Affen- 
thaler,  one  of  the  best  red  wines  of  Baden,  is  produced  in  the 
vicinity. 

9J/2  M.  Buhl  (BadUcher  Hof;  Babe)  ;is  a  thriving  place,  with  a 
new  Gothic  church.  Through  the  industrious  Buhlerthal,  which 
opens  here ,  a  picturesque  road  leads  to  (8  M.)  Sand  and  (9  M.) 
Herrcnwies  (p.  338).    On  the  hill  rises  the  ruined  castle  of  Alt- 


326    Route  48.  ACHERN.  From  Baden 

Windecky  once  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race  which  became  extinct 
in  1592  (pleasant  excursion  to  it  by  the  village  of  Kappel-  Windeck 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill). 

II1/4  M.  Otteraweier  (Sonne;  Adler).  The  Hub,  formerly  a 
popular  mineral  bath,  now  a  poor-house,  lies  IV2  M.  to  the  "W. 

14^2  M.  Aohern.  —  Hotels.  Railway  Hotel  and  Restaurant,  at 
the  station.  In  the  village,  about  1/4  M.  from  the  station,  "Post,  R.  1  m. 
70,  B.  70,  D.  2m.  40  pf .  ;  *Adlkb,  similar  charges;  Sonne;  beer  at  the 
Engel  and  an  adjoining  beer-garden. 

Carriages  and  omnibus  at  the  station  and  hotels  according  to  tariff: 
to  Allerheiligen ,  one-horse  9,  two -horse  14  m.;  to  the  Brigi t tens ch loss, 
two-horse,  10  m. 

Baths  in  the  Acher,  20  pf.,  tickets  at  the  hotels: 

Aehern  (480  ft.),  a  thriving  little  town,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kappeler  Thai.  The  market-place  is  adorned  with  a  monument  to 
the  Grand  Duke  Leopold  (d.  1852).  The  large  Lunatic  Asylum  of 
IUenau  (near  Aehern)  has  accommodation  for  400  patients.  Hence 
through  the  Kappeler  Thai  to  Allerheiligen,  see  p.  341 ;  diligence 
to  (7  M.)  Ottenhofen  once  daily. 

At  Sasbach,  l'/s  M.  N.  of  Aehern,  the  French  Marshal  Turenne  fell  in 
1675  during  an  engagement  with  the  Imperial  General  Hontecuccoli.  The 
spot  is  marked  by  an  obelisk  in  grey  granite,  erected  by  the  French  gov- 
ernment in  1829  on  the  site  of  the  old  monument. 

Pleasant  walk  (1  hr.)  past  the  new  Erlenbad  to  the  ruins  of  Jfeu- 
windeck  or  Lau/er  Schloss,  perched  on  a  precipitous  rock  above  the  village 
of  Lav/.  From  Lauf  by  Neuwindeck  or  Qlashiltte  to  the  top  of  the  liornis- 
grinde  (p.  340),  3-37*  hrs.  —  The  BrigittenschloM  (or  Bohenroder  Schlots), 
6  M.  from  Aehern,  is  insignificant  as  a  ruin,  but  commands  a  noble  pro- 
spect. Halfway  the  road  passes  through  Basbachwalden  (Badischer  Hof ; 
*Rebstock),  a  beautifully-situated  village. 

19  M.  Renehen  (Adler),  with  2300  inhab.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Renchthal.  A  monument  was  erected  in  1879  to  H.  J.  von  Grim- 
melshausen,  the  author  of  'Simpllcissimus',  who  died  here  in  1676. 
—  22  M.  Appenweier  (Krone;  Adler;  Railway  Hotel) ,  a  village 
with  1400  inhabitants.  The  railways  to  Strassburg  and  to  Oppenau 
(see  p.  342)  diverge  here  from  the  main  line  (change  carriages). 

From  Appenweibb  to  Kbhl  and  Stbassbubg,  16  M.,  railway  in  */«  hr. 
The  line  traverses  a  district  rendered  marshy  by  the  inundations  of  the 
Kinsig,  which  falls  into  the  Rhine  at  Kehl.    57*  M.  Kork. 

9  M.  Kehl  (462  ft.-,  *fW,  or  Weisses  Lamm;  *Salmen,  at  the  station, 
R.  17s  in. ;  Fingado,  beer-garden,  at  the  station),  a  small  town  where 
tobacco  and  paper-hangings  are  manufactured,  was  erected  by  the  French 
as  a  tfite-de-pont  of  Strassburg  in  1688,  and  has  frequently  been  besieged. 
During  the  siege  of  Strassburg  in  1870  the  town  sustained  serious  damage. 
Pop.  4800. 

At  Kehl  the  junction-line  between  the  Baden  and  the  Alsace  railways 
crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge,  immediately  below  the  bridge-of- 
boats.  The  train  stops  at  a  station  near  the  8.E.  gate  (Metsger  Thor,  or 
Porte  d'Austerlitz)  of  Strassburg,  describes  a  wide  circuit  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  and  joins  the  Bale-Strassburg  line  (comp.  p.  277)  near  KSnigshofen. 
16  M.  Strassburg,  see  p.  264. 

From  Appenweier  to  Oppenau,  see  p.  342. 

The  line  now  runs  parallel  with  the  mountains  of  the  Black 
Forest.  In  the  distance  to  the  left  rises  the  grand-ducal  castle  of 
itavfenberg,  founded  in  the  11th  cent,  by  Otho  of  Hohenstaufen, 


to  Bdle.  OFFENBURG.  48.  Route     327 

Bishop  of  Strassburg,  and  still  in  good. preservation.  It  may  be 
reached  from  Windschldg,  the  next  station,  via  Durbach  (Linde),  in 
21/2  hrs. 

27  M.  Offenburg  (438  ft. ;  ^Railway  Hotel,  opposite  the  station, 
B.  from  2y2  in.,  B.  1  m.  20  pf . :  *Fortuna,  R.  &  A.  2%  m. ; 
Sehwarzer  Adler,  or  Post,  well  spoken  of;  Rheinischer  Hof,  near 
the  church ;  Sonne ;  the  last  four  in  the  town),  a  small  town  on  the 
Kinzig,  with  7200inhab.,  contains  a  statue  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  4the 
introducer  of  the  potato  into  Europe,  1586/  and  a  modern  Gothic 
Protestant  Church  in  red  sandstone  with  an  open-work  tower.  It  was 
formerly  an  imperial  town,  and  down  to  the  Peace  of  Pressburg  the 
seat  of  government  of  the  district  of  Ortenau,  or  Mordnau.  The  com- 
fortable appearance  of  the  little  town  with  its  numerous  industries 
and  well  laid-out  promenades  bears  testimony  to  its  prosperity. 

From  Offenburg  to  Hausach,  Triberg,  and  Constance,  see  p.  344. 

The  train  crosses  the  Kinzig.  On  a  hill  to  the  left  rises  Schloss 
Ortenberg  (p.  345).  32»/2M.  Nicder-Schopfhetm,  35 M.  Friesenheim -, 
then  (38  M.)  Dinglingen,  the  junction  of  a  branch-line  (7  min.)  to 
Lahr  (Sonne ;  Pflug ;  Krone),  one  of  the  most  prosperous  industrial 
towns  in  the  duchy,  with  9400  inhab.,  in  the  Schutterthal,  21/2  M. 
from  the  main  line.  It  contains  a  venerable  Abbey  Church,  a  modern 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  an  old  Rathhaus,  and  a  War  Monument. 
To  Biberach,  9  M.,  see  p.  345. 

The  cemetery  of  Meissenheim ,  V/i  M.  N.W.  of  Dinglingen,  contains 
the  tomb  of  Frederica  Brion  of  Sessenheim  (p.  261),  Goethe's  early  love 
(d.  1813).    Her  resting-place  is  indicated  by  a  new  monument. 

4i  M.  Kippenheim  (Anker),  a  market-town ,  lying  Y2  M.  from 
the  station,  was  the  birthplace  of  Stulz,  the  rich  tailor  (p.  320), 
and  possesses  a  monument  to  him.  To  the  right  in  the  distance  rise 
the  Vosges.  The  castle  of  Mahlberg ,  to  the  left  above  the  small 
town  of  that  name  (H6tel  Prinz),  was  once  the  seat  of  the  old  Baden 
government;  in  the  middle  ages  it  belonged  to  the  Hohenstaufen. 
The  town  was  founded  by  Conrad  III.  in  the  12th  century. 

Near  (44  M.)  Orschweier  (Krone)  lies  Ettenheim  (Pflug),  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Milnsterthal,  with  a  conspicuous  church. 

A  mournful  interest  attaches  to  this  village  as  the  spot  where  the 
Due  d'Enghien  was  arrested  by  order  of  Napoleon  on  the  night  of  14th 
March,  1804,  to  be  shot  at  Vincennes  six  days  later. 

Farther  up  the  valley  lies  (l>/2  M.)  St.  Landolin,  a  small,  pleasantly- 
situated  watering-place. 

47Y2  M.  Herbolzheim.  Near  (49J/2  M.)  Kenzingen  the  line  crosses 
the  Elz  twice.  Above  Hecklingen  are  the  ruins  of  Lichtenegg,  once 
a  seat  of  the  Counts  of  Tubingen. 

At  (52y2  M.)  Riegel  (Zum  Kopf)  the  Dreisam  unites  with  the 
Elz.  The  entire  plain  here  was  formerly  a  marsh,  but  is  now  drained 
by  the  Leopolds-Canal.   To  the  ri^ht  rises  the  Kaiser stuhl  (p.  333). 

57  M.  Emmendingen  (*Post;  Adler)  has  two  modern  churches. 
Beyond  it,  on  a  hill  to  the  left,  are  the  extensive,  well-preserved 
ruins  of  the  Hochburg,  dismantled  in  1689  by  order  of  Louis  XIV. 


328     Route  48.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Elz.  Beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of 
the  Elz,  opening  to  the  N.E.  (left).  —  61  M.  Denzlingen ;  branch- 
line  to  Waldkirch,  5  M.,  see  p.  352. 

Near  Freiburg,  on  the  left,  stands  the  watch-tower  of  the  ruined 
castle  of  Zahringen,  once  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race,  which  became 
extinct  in  1218  by  the  death  of  Count  Berthold  V.  (p.  331).  The 
train  now  passes  a  large  prison,  on  the  left,  and  reaches  — 

66  M.  Freiburg.  —  Hotel*.  Near  the  Station:  *Zahbingbr  Hop  (PI.  a  ; 
B,  3),  opposite  the  station,  R.  and  L.  from  27s  m.,  A.  70,  B.  1  m.  20  pf., 

D.  3m.;  'Hotel  Victoria,  Eisenbahn-Str.  (PI.  C,2),  next  door  to  the 
new  Post  Office,  R.  &  A.  2  m.,  B.  90  pf.-,  *Pfau  (PI.  e;  C.  1),  near  the 
station,  with  a  garden-restaurant,  R.  2m.  (pretty  landscapes  from  the 
Black  Forest  in  the  garden-saloon)-,  in  these,  'pension*  from  October  to 
June.  In  the  Town:  *Enoel  (PI.  c;  E,  2),  near  the  Miinster,  unpretending, 
R.  lVs-2m.-,  *  Wilder  Mann  (PI.  f;  E,  4) ;  *Hotel  Geist  (PI.  g-,  E,  3), 
opposite  the  west  portal  of  the  Munster,  R.  iy«m.  •  Rhbinischeb  Hof  (PI.  i ; 

E,  3)  -,  *R6m.  Kaiser  (PI.  h ;  D,  4)  -,  *H6tel  Foehrenbach  (PI.  h ;  D,  4),  in 
the  S.  suburb,  with  large  rooms,  R.  1  m.  70  pf.  -,  Markgrafler  Hof,  Ger- 
berau  (PI.  D,  E,  4),  R.  1  m.  20,  B.  50,  D.  1  m.  50  pf.,  well  spoken  of-,  Feii- 
bubger  Hof.  —  *  Pension  Lang,  to  the  8.  of  the  town ,  on  the  road  to 
Giinthersthal;  • Pension  XJtz,  Belfort-Str.  5. 

Cafes.  *Kopf,  adjoining  the  Engel,  well  supplied  with  newspapers, 
with  old  German  drinking-room  and  garden ;  *Hechinger,  restaurant,  8als- 
Str.  7;  Treupel,  restaurant,  Salz-Str.  26.  —  "Wine  at  "HummeVs,  Miinster- 
Platz.  —  Beer.  Stratz,  in  the  Oreifenegger  Schldsschen,  above  the  Schwa- 
ben  thor,  with  *View.  —  Confectioner.    Wol finger,  Kaiser-Str. 

Baths  at  the  Zahringer  Hof,  and  in  the  garden  of  the  Pfau.  Public 
Baths  at  the  Botanical  Garden  (PI.  B,  C,  5). 

Gabs.  From  the  station  into  the  town  (one-horse),  for  1  pers.  50,  2  pers. 
90,  3  pers.  lm.  20,  4  pers.  lm.  40,  luggage  20 pf.  —  In  the  Town:  V*  hr.,  one- 
horse,  for  1-2  pers.  50,  3-4  pers.  90  pf.,  two-horse,  70  pf.,  1  m. ;  V*  hr. 
lm.,  lm.  50,  lm.  40  pf.,  or  2m.-,  "A  hr.  1  m.  50,  2  m.,  2  m.,  2  m.  80  pf.; 
1  hr.  2  m.,  2m.  50,  2m.  60,  3m.  40  pf.  —  To  Lonetto,  one-horse,  1  m.  70, 
2m.  60  pf.;  two-horse  3m.,  3  m.  80  pf. ;  to  Kappel  3m.  50,  4m.  50,  4m. 
60,  5  m.  50  pf. ;  to  the  Schlossberg  ('Kanonenplatz,) ,  two-horse,  47*-5m.; 
to  OUnthersthal ,  1  m.  50,  2  m.,  2  m.  60  pf.,  3  m.  Longer  drives,  also  ac- 
cording to  tariff-,  two-horse  carr.  about  20  m.  per  day  with  fee  of  2  m. ; 
comp.  p.  352. 

Post  Office  (PI.  20,  0,2,3),  Eisenbahn-Strasse,  a  handsome  new  building. 

English  Church  Service  in  a  room  at  the  old  post-office,  Kaiser-Str.  51, 
at  11  a.m.  and  7  p.m.  (winter  3  p.m.).    Chaplain,  Rev.  W.  J.  Drought,  B.  A. 

Principal  Attractions.  The  traveller  should  follow  the  Eisenbahn-Str. 
from  the  station  through  the  town  as  far  as  the  Kaiser-Str.,  then  turn 
to  the  right,  follow  the  Salz-Str.  to  the  Schwabenthor,  and  ascend  the 
Schlossberg,  a  walk  of  25  minutes.  On  the  way  back  visit  the  MUnster  and 
Kaufhaus  (exterior  only  of  the  latter),  traverse  the  broad  Kaiser-Strasse 
(Fountain,  War  Monument,  Protestant  Church),  and  return  to  the  station 
by  the  Friedrichs-Strasse.  The  best  *View  is  obtained  from  the  Lorttto- 
berg  by  evening  light  (cab  from  the  station  and  back  in  1-1  */«  hr.). 

Freiburg  (918  ft.),  situated  in  the  Breisgau,  11  M.  frdm  the 
Rhine,  vies  with  Baden  and  Heidelberg  in  the  beauty  of  its  en- 
virons. The  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest,  the  picturesque  hills 
in  the  vicinity,  the  populous  and  fertile  plain,  bounded  by  the 
vine-clad  Kaiserstuhl ,  and  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Dreisam ,  all 
combine  to  render  the  situation  highly  attractive. 

The  town  owes  its  origin  to  Duke  Berthold  II.  of  Zdhring en,  who  found- 
ed it  about  1091,  and  it  remained  in  possession  of  his  successors  t\U  the 


i 


to  B&le.  FREIBURG.  48.  Route.     329 

line  became  extinct  in  1218.  For  over  400  years  Freiburg  belonged  to  the 
House  of  Hapsburg;  it  suffered  much  in  the  Thirty  Years'  War;  in  1677 
it  was  taken  by  the  French,  fortified  by  Vauban,  and  confirmed  to  them 
by  the  Peace  of  Nymwegen  in  1678;  by  the  Peace  of  Ryswyck  in  1697  it 
■was  given  back  to  Austria,  but  captured  by  Vi liars  in  1713,  after  an 
obstinate  defence.  It  was  again  restored  to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Rastatt 
in  1714,  plundered  and  to  a  great  extent  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1745, 
and  then,  after  the  destruction  of  the  fortifications,  once  more  made  over 
to  Austria  by  the  Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  in  1748.  The  Breiagau,  an 
hereditary  possession  of  the  house  of  Austria,  of  which  Freiburg  was  the 
capital,  was  annexed  to  Baden  by  the  Peace  of  Pressburg  in  1806,  and  the 
town  thus  restored  to  the  representatives  of  the  house  of  Zahringen,  by 
-which  it  was  originally  founded. 

Freiburg  is  the  chief  city  of  the  upper  Rhenish  province  of 
Baden,  and  since  1827  has  been  the  seat  of  an  archbishop  whose 
see  comprises  the  church  of  the  Upper  Rhine.  Population  36,380, 
including  about  12,000  Protestants  and  1000  Jews.  Silk,  cotton, 
pottery,  buttons,  machinery,  etc.,  are  largely  manufactured  in  and 
around  the  town,  which  is  also  the  chief  market  for  the  productions 
of  the  Black  Forest.  The  streets  are  supplied  with  streams  of  pure 
water  from  the  Dreisam,  which  gives  them  an  agreeable  freshness 
in  summer,  and  the  town  is  surrounded  with  a  girdle  of  pretty 
promenades  and  villas.  Freiburg  is  indeed  one  of  the  pleasantest 
towns  in  Germany,  and  its  inhabitants  have  long  been  noted  for 
their  good-nature  and  courtesy.  It  is  much  patronised  as  a  residence 
by  retired  North  German  officials. 

The  railway-station  is  connected  with  the  town  by  the  Eisbn- 
bahn-Strasse  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  a  pleasant-looking  street,  flanked  with 
handsome  modern  villas  and  gardens.  To  the  right  rises  the  hand- 
some new  Post  Office  (PI.  20),  by  Arnold.  On  the  left,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  town,  stands  the  Monument  of  Rottcck,  the  historian 
(d.  1840;  PI.  5). 

The  Franziskaner-Platz  is  embellished  with  a  statue  of  the  Fran- 
ciscan Berthold  Schwarz  (PI.  6;  D,  3),  the  inventor  of  gunpowder 
(1312;  at  Freiburg),  as  the  reliefs  indicate.  In  the  same  square 
stand  the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Martin  (PL  15),  the  interior  of  which 
has  recently  been  restored,  with  its  simple  cloisters,  and  the  Rath- 
haus. 

Close  by  is  the  University  (PI.  23;  D,  3),  founded  in  1456  by 
Archduke  Albert  IV.,  and  attended  by  about  700  students.  Most  of 
the  lectures  are  delivered  in  the  university-buildings  in  the  town ; 
those  on  medical  subjects  in  the  Anatomiegebaude,  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  Protestant  church,  where  the  Anatomical  Museum  (PI.  1 ;  D,  1), 
the  Eye  Dispensary j  the  Hospital,  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  etc., 
are  also  situated.    Adjacent  is  a  large  Penitentiary, 

We  next  reach  the  broad  and  handsome  Kaisbb-Stbasbe  (PhD, 
E,  3,  2),  which  intersects  the  town  from  N.  to  S.,  and  is  enlivened 
with  numerous  fountains.  In  the  centre  rises  an  old  * Fountain  of 
the  late-Gothic  period,  embellished  with  a  number  of  old  and  modern 
figures.    To  the  S.  of  it  is  a  modern  fountain  with  a  statue  of  Ber- 


330     Route  48.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

tbold  III.,  and  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  that  prince,  the  law- 
giver of  Freiburg  (1120),  of  his  brother  Conrad,  the  founder  of  the 
cathedral  (1123),  of  Archduke  Albert  VI.  (see  below),  and  of  Charles 
Frederick  of  Baden,  the  'Nestor  of  princes' ,  in  whose  honour  the 
fountain-column  was  erected  in  1807.  To  the  N.,  in  the  same 
street,  is  another  modern  fountain,  with  a  statue  of  Archduke  Al- 
bert, the  founder  of  the  university  (1456).  A  little  farther  on  is 
the  War  Monument,  p.  332. 

The  Munstergasse  leads  straight  to  the  W.  portal  of  the  cathe- 
dral, in  front  of  which  rise  three  lofty  columns  bearing  poor  statues 
of  the  Virgin,  St.  Alexander,  and  St.  Lambert,  the  patron-saints  of 
the  cathedral. 

The  "Cathedral  (Mututer;  PI.  14;  £,  3),  the  tower  of  which  is 
the  earliest  and  most  perfect  of  its  kind,  is  one  of  the  finest  Gothic 
buildings  in  Germany,  and  has  justly  been  admired  from  a  very  early 
period.  The  church,  which  is  constructed  entirely  of  dark-red  sand- 
stone, was  begun  at  a  period  when  the  Gothic  style  had  not  as  yet 
become  naturalised  in  Germany.  We  accordingly  And  that  the 
transept  with  the  side-towers,  the  oldest  part  of  the  edifice,  are  in 
the  Romanesque  style.  From  the  transept  the  work  was  continued 
towards  the  W.,  so  that  the  tower  was  not  begun  till  the  end  of 
the  13th  century.  While  the  form  of  the  nave  and  aisles  resem- 
bles that  of  the  contemporaneous  cathedral  of  Strassburg,  it  is  ob- 
vious that  the  architects  found  it  difficult  to  bring  them  into  har- 
mony with  the  style  of  the  older  transept.  The  resemblance  between 
the  two  cathedrals  has  given  rise  to  the  conjecture  that  both  may 
have  been  partly  designed  by  the  same  architect.  After  the  com- 
pletion of  the  nave  and  aisles,  the  construction  of  the  choir  was 
begun,  but  it  was  not  completed  till  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent. 
(1354?- 1513).  The  most  artistic  part  of  the  whole  building  is  the 
Tower,  which  is  365  ft.  in  height.  The  three  bold  and  simple 
stories  at  once  reveal  their  structural  significance:  the  massive 
square  basement,  the  lofty  octagonal  bell-tower,  and  the  airy  pyramid 
of  perforated  masonry,  which  the  octagon,  both  in  form  and  orna- 
mentation, serves  harmoniously  to  connect  with  the  square  base.  In 
the  side  of  the  tower  is  the  Principal  Portal,  adorned  with  rjch 
sculptures.  On  the  right  side  are  the  seven  Arts  and  the  Foolish 
Virgins,  on  the  left  the  Wise  Virgins  and  several  figures  from  the 
Old  Testament  looking  forward  to  the  Redemption.  On  the  wall  of 
the  portal  are  statues  of  Judaism  and  the  Church,  and  representa- 
tions of  the  Salutation,  the  Annunciation,  and  the  Adoration  of 
Christ.  In  the  segment  of  the  arch  is  pourtrayed  the  further  history 
of  the  Saviour  down  to  his  return  at  the  Last  Day.  Around  the 
whole  building  are  niches  containing  statues  of  saints,  fathers  of 
the  church,  prophets,  and  allegorical  figures.  The  £.  Portal  is  un- 
fortunately disfigured  with  a  portico  of  the  17th  century. 

The*lNTBBioB(354ft.  long,  102  ft.  wide,  85  ft.  high),  consisting 


to  Bdie.  FREIBURG.  48.  Route.    331 

of  nave  and  aisles,  transept,  choir  and  ambulatory,  with  magnificent 
ancient  and  modern  stained-glass  windows,  is  most  impressive.  It 
has  been  recently  restored.  The  best  time  to  visit  it  is  after  10.30 
a.m.,  when  the  services  for  the  day  are  concluded  (the  sacristan 
admits  visitors  to  the  choir,  fee  50  pf.). 

Nave.  On  the  W.  wall  are  stained-glass  rose-windows,  those  on  the 
left  new,  on  the  right  old.  The  Pulpit,  executed  by  Jerg  Kemp/  in  1661, 
is  said  to  be  hewn  out  of  a  single  block  of  stone.  The  Twelve  Apostle*, 
by  the  pillars ,  are  somewhat  rough  specimens  of  sculpture.  —  The  arch 
at  the  intersection  of  the  nave  and  transept  is  embellished  with  a  fresco 
by  L.  Seits,  executed  in  1877,  and  representing  the  Coronation  of  the 
Virgin.  —  The  screen  was  constructed  in  the  17th  cent,  by  Jacob  Altermadt. 

S.  Aislb  (right).  Good  stained-glass  windows  of  the  loth  century.  The 
four  Evangelists  in  stained-glass  (5th  window),  after  Durer,  by  Helmle, 
4822.  Below  these,  the  tombstone  with  high-relief  of  Berthold  V.  of  Zah- 
ringen,  the  last  of  his  line  (d.  1218).  In  the  Holy  Sepulchre  Chapel  the 
Saviour  on  a  sarcophagus  •,  beneath  it  the  watchmen  of  the  sepulchre  asleep, 
old  sculptures,  perhaps  by  Jerg  Kemp/.  The  eight  small  stained-glass 
scenes  from  the  Passion  were  executed  by  Helmle  in  1826  from  designs  by 
Durer.  The  carved  wood-work  of  the  side-altars  is  old.  That  on  the  left, 
with  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  executed  in  1506,  is  the  finest 

Choik  Chapkls.  The  stained-glass  in  these  chapels  is  damaged.  —  Altar- 
pieces:  1st  Chapel.  "Winged  picture,  in  the  centre  SS.  Augustine,  Anthony, 
and  Bochus,  SS.  Sebastian  and  Christopher  on  the  wings,  master  unknown. 

—  2nd  (University)  Chapel.  "Nativity,  and  "Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by  Hol- 
bein the  Younger,  painted  about  1520,  brought  hither  from  Bale  after  the 
Reformation;  the  paintings  on  the  outside  are  of  later  date  and  little 
value.  Next  to  it,  the  "Portrait  of  a  priest,  dated  1600.  —  At  the  back  of 
the  high-altar,  a  winged  picture  by  Han*  Baldung,  surnamed  Orien  (1516) 
of  the  "Crucifixion,  on  the  left,  St  Jerome  and  John  the  Baptist,  on  the 
right,  St  George  and  St  Lawrence.  The  chapel  to  the  left  behind  the 
high-altar  contains  a  Romanesque  Crucifix  in  silver-gilt,  brought  from 
Magdeburg,  the  head  modern  \  also  a  few  reliefs  —  The  second  chapel 
on  the  left  contains  an  ^Adoration  of  the  15th  cent,  in  carved  wood,  with 
Gothic  framework. 

Choib.  At  the  entrances  on  the  right  and  left,  reliefs  of  dukes 
Berthold  III.  and  IV. ,  Conrad  III. ,  and  Rudolph  of  Zahringen.  On  the 
wall  a  monument  of  Gen.  de  Rodt  (d.  1743).  —  * High-altar-piece  by  Bald- 
ung (1516),  in  the  centre,  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  between  God  the  Father 
and  Christ,  to  the  right,  St  Peter  and  other  saints,  to  the  left,  St.  Paul 
and  some  warriors ;  outside,  the  Annunciation,  Visitation,  Nativity,  and 
Flight  into  Egypt    Episcopal  throne  richly  carved,  1848. 

N.  Aislb.  In  the  chapel  of  the  Ht  of  Olives  a  painted  stone  relief  of 
the  Last  Supper  (1805),  and  four  small  stained-glass  "Windows  with  scenes 
from  the  Passion,  by  Helmle,  from  designs  by  Durer.  —  Statue  of  Archb. 
Boll  (d.    1836),  by  Friederich.  —  Monument  of  Archb.  Demeter  (d.  1842). 

—  The  Egonikapelle  contains  two  modern  stained-glass  windows  executed 
by  Helmle  from  drawings  by  DUrr ,  representing  the  Lord  appearing  to 
Moses  in  the  burning  bush,  and  King  David. 

Towkb  (p.  330).  Entrance  in  the  church  to  the  right  of  the  portal ; 
ticket  20  pf.,  fee  to  custodian  40  pf.,  who  also  shows  the  clock  by  Schwil- 
gue*  (comp.  p.  269). 

The  *Kaufhaus,  or  Merchants'  Hall  (PL  13;  E,  3),  opposite  the 
S.  portal  of  the  Munster,  was  erected  in  the  15th  century,  and  is 
now  being  restored.  In  front  is  a  vaulted  round-arched  portico, 
resting  on  five  pillars,  and  ahove  it  a  balcony  with  two  projecting 
turrets,  covered  with  coloured  tiles  and  painted  arms  in  relief;  on 
the  outer  wall,  four  small  statues  of  emperors  of  Germany. 

In  the  N.  part  of  the  Kaiser- Strasse,  opposite  the  Infantry  Bar- 


332     Route  48.  FREIBURG.  From  Baden 

racks  (PI.  12),  built  by  tbe  Austrian  Government  in  1776,  rises  a 
large  *War  Monument  (PI.  26;  E,  2),  erected  in  1878  to  the  14th 
German  Army  Corps  and  its  leader,  General  von  Werder.  It  con- 
sists of  a  large  granite  pedestal,  surrounded  by  figures  of  soldiers, 
and  surmounted  by  a  bronze  figure  of  Victory,  by  C.  F.  Moest.  — 
A  little  farther  on  is  the  Romanesque  *Protestant  Church  (PI.  16 ; 
E,  1) ,  erected  by  Hubsch  in  1839  with  materials  from  the  ruined 
abbey  church  of  Thennenbach.  Richly  ornamented  portal.  Interior 
simple  and  chaste,  with  paintings  by  Dwrr.  To  the  N.  is  the 
Institution  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  with  a  modern  Gothic  chapel. 

The  Kaiser- Strasse  ends ,  to  the  S. ,  in  the  Xartinsthor 
(PI.  D,  4),  on  the  wall  of  which  is  represented  St.  Martin  sharing 
his  cloak  with  a  beggar.  The  inscription  on  the  gateway  commem- 
orates the  bravery  shown  by  the  townspeople  in  an  engagement 
with  the  French  at  Wagenstadt  in  1796.  —  By  turning  to  the  right 
fW.)  and  following  the  Belfort-Strasse  we  reach  the  Alleegarten 
(PI.  C,  4),  pleasantly  laid  out,  and  embellished  with  an  artificial 
waterfall,  the  three  genii  above  which  represent  the  three  tribu- 
taries of  the  Dreisam  and  the  industries  carried  on  on  their  banks. 
Opposite  rises  the  Hohere  Biirgerschule,  with  sculptured  groups  by 
Knittel  in  the  pediment.  A  little  to  the  N.,  opposite  the  Synagogue, 
is  a  Monument  to  General  Werder,  by  Knittel. 

On  the  Schwab enthor  (PL  E,  4)  is  an  ancient  fresco,  represent- 
ing a  Swabian  peasant  driving  a  heavily-laden  waggon.  On  the 
keystone  of  the  arch  is  a  small  sitting  figure. 

From  the  Schwabenthor  a  broad  path  to  the  left  leads  through 
vineyards  and  past  the  reservoir  of  the  town  waterworks  to  the 
♦SchloBBberg  (427ft.  above  the  town;  PI.  F,  G,  H,  3,  4),  once  de- 
fended by  two  castles,  which  were  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1744, 
during  the  Bavarian  War  of  Succession.  The  ruins  are  surrounded 
with  pleasure-grounds.  Above  the  so-called  'Kanonen-Platz',  where 
a  road  from  Immenthal  joins  ours,  we  reach  the  Ludwigshohe,  on 
which  are  a  pavilion  and  an  iron  indicator  of  the  places  visible 
hence.  The  *View,  particularly  of  Freiburg  itself  and  of  the  valley 
of  the  Dreisam,  is  very  fine,  and  is  worthy  of  comparison  with  those 
from  the  Alte  Schloss  at  Baden  and  the  Castle  of  Heidelberg.  Morn- 
ing light  most  favourable.  —  The  shortest  way  back  to  the  town 
leads  from  the  Kanonen-Platz  through  a  gate,  passing  the  Stratz 
Schlo88chen  beer-saloon  (p.  328);  another  leads  by  the  'Kreuz'  and 
Out  Schoneck  (PI.  G,  2;  milk)  to  the  Karls-Platz  (PI.  F,  2).  A  third 
but  longer  path  leads  from  the  Kreuz  N.E.  to  the  (2*/2  M.)  Jager- 
hauschen  (fine  view),  from  which  the  traveller  may  return  to  (l^M.) 
Freiburg  by  the  suburb  of  Herdern. 

The  S.  prolongation  of  the  Kaiser- Strasse  (PI.  D,  5),  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Dreisam,  is  named  the  Gunthersthal-Strasse.  From 
it  the  Baseler-Strassc  and  Loretto-Strasse  (3rd  to  the  right)  lead  to 
the  Torettoberg  or  Josephsberg,  a  hill  about  1  M.  to  the  S.  of 


to  Bale.  FREIBURG.  48.  Route.     333 

Freiburg,  which  may  be  ascended  either  by  the  road  or  by  foot- 
paths. At  the  top  are  three  chapels  under  one  roof  and  an  inn.  A. 
pleasant  view  is  enjoyed  hence  in  all  directions,  including  the 
Gunthersthal  (see  below),  which  is  not  visible  from  the  Schlossberg 
(best  by  evening  light). 

The  Environs  of  Freiburg  are  well  shaded  with  pleasant  woods, 
through  which  of  late  years  numerous  paths  hare  been  constructed, 
affording  many  beautiful  walks.    Comp.  Map,  p.  352. 

Between  the  Lorettoberg  on  the  W.  and  the  Bromberg  on  the  B.  liea 
the  charming  "Gunthersthal,  through  which  the  above-mentioned  Giin- 
thersthal-Strasse  ascends.  At  the  entrance  to  the  valley  footpaths  diverge 
to  the  left  from  the  road,  and  lead  along  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  Brom- 
berg. About  2  M.  up  the  valley  lies  CKintherathal  (Hinch;  Zvm  Kyb- 
feUen),  with  an  old  monastery,  now  converted  into  a  brewery.  About 
17s  M.  farther  on  is  the  Kybburg  Hotel,  whence  we  may  return  through 
the  beautiful  pine-forests  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  valley  to  the  Loretto- 
berg and  Freiburg.    (Or  we  may  turn  at  Ounthersthal.) 

At  the  'Waldeck1  (entrance  of  the  valley),  on  the  road  to  Gunthers- 
thal,  a  path  diverges  to  the  left  and  leads  to  the  "Kybfeleen  (2716  ft.),  the 
top  of  which  is  reached  in  2  hours.  The  descent  may  be  made  to 
Giinthersthal. 

The  "ScMnberg  (2118  ft.),  6  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Freiburg,  affords  the 
best  general  view  of  the  mountains  of  the  Black  Forest. 

Pleasant  excursions  may  also  be  made  to  St.  Ottilien  (1516  ft.),  a  chapel 
and  inn  l»/i  hr.  to  the  N.E.  \  then  to  the  Rosskop/  (2264  ft.)  in  l«Ahr., 
and  thence  to  the  Jdgerh&utchen  (p.  332),  or  the  castle  of  Zdhringen  (p.  328). 

Excursion  to  the  HSllenthal,  see  p.  352.  —  A  shady  walk  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Dreisam  to  the  (1»/*  M.)  Waldeee  (Restaurant)  and  (l»/2  M.) 
Littenweiler  (Inn  and  baths). 

The  *&chau-ins-Land,  or  Ertkatten  (4219  ft.),  the  nearest  of  the  higher 
mountains  of  the  Black  Forest,  387  ft.  higher  than  the  Blauen  (p.  364), 
and  commanding  a  similar  view,  may  be  ascended  in  4  hours.  The  best 
route  lead  by  Ounthersthal,  beyond  which  we  follow  the  road  for  about 
2'/2  M.  more  and  then  ascend  to  the  left  through  wood.  About  10  min. 
below  the  top  is  the  Ratthaus,  a  small  but  good  inn.  —  About  s/«  hr.  to 
the  S.  of  the  summit,  is  the  Halde,  a  group  of  houses  with  a  good  inn. 
Thence  to  the  Nothschrei  (p.  352),  1  hr. ;  from  it  direct  to  the  Feldberg, 
27s  hrs.  —  The  Belchen  lies  3!/s  hrs.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Schan-ins-Land ; 
footpath  via  the  HOrnle  and  the  Wiedener  Eck. 

The  Kaiaerstuhl,  a  basaltic  hill-district  about  42  sq.  M.  in  area, 
and  entirely  planted  with  the  vine,  rises  from  the  plain  in  up- 
wards of  forty  peaks  between  the  Dreisam  and  the  Rhine*. 

A  visit  may  be  paid  to  it  from  Freiburg  as  follows.  By  railway  to 
Riegel  (p.  327),  and  thence  by  the  post-omnibus,  which  runs  several  times 
daily,  to  Ending  en  (Pfau)  in  40  minutes.  Ascend  in  I74  hr.  to  the  ""Chapel 
of  St.  Catherine  (1620  ft.),  which  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  plain  of 
the  Ehine  as  far  as  Strassburg,  of  the  Vosges,  and  of  the  Black  Forest. 
Descend  to  Schehlingen ,  and  proceed  to  Vogtsbvrg,  where  the  high-road 
traversing  the  district  from  E.  to  W.  is  reached.  Ascend  this  road  to  the 
left  (E.)  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  where  a  finger-post  on  the  right  indicates 
the  way  to  the  Neun  Linden  (1883  ft.) ,  the  highest  point  of  the  Kaiser- 
stuhl.  Descend  thence,  either  towards  the  S.E.  to  (7s  hr.)  Bickensohl  and 
(3/4  hr.)  Ihringen,  or  return  to  the  high-road  and  descend  by  it  to  (3  M.) 
Qottenheim  (see  below).  

From  Freiburg  to  Colmar  (28  M.).  Railway  in  173-2  hrs. ; 
fares  4  m.  20,  2  m.  90,  1  m.  80  pf. 

The  line  traverses  the  Mooswald,  a  marshy  tract,  crosses  the 


334     Route  48.  BREISACH.  From  Baden 

DreUam  Caned,  and  turns  to  the  "W.,  between  the  undulating  slopes 
of  the  Tuni-Berg  on  the  left,  and  the  Kaiserstuhl  on  the  right. 
5M.  Hugstctten  (Kreuz);  7'/*  M.  Oottenheim  (Adler);  9i/2  M. 
WaaenweiUr;  W/4  M.  Jhringen  (Ochs). 

U1/2  M.  Alt-Breiiach  (744  ft.;  'Deutscher  Kaiser,  or  Post; 
Salmen),  the  Roman  Mont  Brisiacua,  a  picturesque  old  town,  with 
3260  inhab.,  situated  on  the  extreme  S.W.  spur  of  the  vine-clad 
Kaiserstuhl,  lies  at  the  foot  of  a  rock  rising  precipitously  to  a  height 
of  240  ft.  above  the  Rhine. 

As  lately  as  the  10th  cent.,  the  Rhine  is  said  to  have  flowed  round 
the  town,  which  was  anciently  an  important  fortress  and  regarded  as  the 
key  of  Germany.  After  1331  it  belonged  to  Austria;  in  1638  it  was  taken 
after  a  long  siege  by  the  Swedes  under  Bernhard  von  Weimar;  after  his 
death  garrisoned  by  the  French  \  in  1700  again  in  possession  of  Austria; 
in  1703  taken  by  Tallard  and  Vauban ;  and  in  1714  restored  to  the  Aus- 
trian 8.  In  1740  a  change  in  the  course  of  the  Rhine  proved  so  detrimen- 
tal to  the  fortifications,  that  they  were  abandoned  and  partly  demolished 
by  the  Austrians,  and  then  completely  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1793. 
The  Rheinthor  bears  the  following  plaintive  inscription,  dating  from  the 
time  when  the  disunited  Germans  felt  their  inability  to  repel  the  attacks 
of  the  French :  — 

Limes  eram  Gallis,  nunc  pons  et  Janua  fio; 
Si  ptrgunt,  Qallis  nullibi  limes  erit! 

On  the  highest  point  in  the  town  rises  the  *  Cathedral  of 
St.  Stephen ,  a  cruciform  edifice.  The  choir,  supported  by  an  open 
substructure,  the  S.  tower,  and  theW.  half  of  the  nave  are  Gothic, 
dating  from  the  14th  cent. ;  the  transept  andN.  tower  are  Roman- 
esque. It  contains  a  beautiful  rood-loft  of  the  latter  part  of  the  15th 
cent.,  and  a  large  Gothic  winged  altar-piece  in  carved  wood,  exe- 
cuted in  1526  by  Hans  Lievering(?),  representing  the  Coronation 
of  the  Virgin.  The  Interior  was  restored  and  painted  In  1879.  Two 
large  pictures  in  the  choir  by  Diirr,  1851.  Fine  view  from  the 
terrace.  —  In  the  iSehlo88garten>  is  a  tower  erected  in  honour  of 
Colonel  Tulla,  an  officer  of  engineers.  To  the  S.  rises  the  Eckards- 
berg,  with  fragments  of  an  old  fortress. 

At  the  base  of  the  Kaiserstuhl,  on  the  Rhine,  71/*  M.  to  the  N.  of  Brei- 
sach,  lies  the  ruin  of  Sponeck  (*Grossherzog  Leopold),  commanding  a  fine 
view  of  Alsace,  the  Vosges  Mts.,  &c.  About  2%  M.  farther  on  is  the  ruin 
of  Limburg,  where  Rudolph  of  Hapsburg  was  born  in  1218.  (On  Sundays 
a  steamer  sails  from  Breisach  to  Sponeck  and  Limburg.) 

The  railway  now  crosses  the  Rhine  by  means  of  a  new  iron 
bridge.  —  16  M.  Neu-Breisach,  a  small  fortress,  constructed  by 
Vauban  in  1703,  and  taken  by  the  Germans  in  1870,  after  a  siege 
of  eight  days.  22*/2  M.  Sundhofen.   28  M.  Colmar,  see  p.  27ri. 


From  Freiburg  to  Bale  (39  M.).  Railway  in  l1/^1/*  ^rs. 
(fares  5  m.,  3  m.  30,  2  m.  10  pf. ;  express  fares  6  m.  30,  4  m., 
2  m.  80 pf.).  The  train  skirts  the  vine-clad  W.  spurs  of  the  Black 
Forest.  Stations  St.  Oeorgen  and  Schallstadt.  —  9y2  M.  Krotzingen 
(Badischer  Hof,  at  the  station;  Rossle,  in  the  village,  a  short 
distance  from  the  railway ;  diligence  to  Staufen,  p.  366).  The  small 


to  B&le.  BALE.  48.  Route.     335 

town  of  (13M.)  Heiteraheim  (Adler;  Kreuz),  once  the  seat  of  the 
Master  of  the  Maltese  Order,  is  3/4  M.  from  the  station.  To  the  E., 
472  M.  up  the  valley,  lies  the  town  of  8ultburg  (Hirsch ;  diligence 
twice  daily),  prettily  situated  amidst  wood;  3  M.  farther  on  is  Bad 
Sulzburg.    15  M.  Bugging  en. 

18  M.  Hulllieim.  —  Hotels.  •Kittles,  at  the  station,  with  garden 
and  restaurant ;  Weibbes  Kreuz  ,  nearer  the  town ;  Schwan  and  Nkue 
Post,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  I1/*  M.  from  the  station.  — 
Omnibus  to  Badenweiler,  see  p.  362.  Travellers  arriving  late  are  recom- 
mended to  pass  the  night  at  Mullheim,  as  the  hotels  at  Badenweiler  are 
sometimes  full. 

MiiUheim  (882ft.),  a  thriving  little  town  of  3000  inhab.,  with  a 
new  church,  lying  on  the  hill-side,  1  M.  from  the  station,  and  ex- 
tending for  about  1  M.  up  the  valley  of  the  Klemmbach ,  through 
which  runs  the  road  to  Badenweiler.  Mullheim  is  noted  for  the 
Markgrafler  wine  produced  in  the  neighbourhood.  —  Branch-rail- 
way to  Mulhausen,  see  p.  282. 

191/2 M.  Auggen  (Bar);  21 M.  Schliengen  (845ft. ;  Krone;  dili- 
gence to  Kandern,  5^2  M.,  twice  a  day).  The  line  now  approaches 
the  Rhine,  which  is  here  divided  by  islands  into  several  arms. 
Best  views  to  the  right.  24  M.  Bellingen;  25 72  M.  Rheinweiler  ; 
271/2  M.  Kleinkems. 

Then  three  short  tunnels  through  the  lJsteiner  Riots' ,  a  lime- 
stone cliff  overhanging  the  water,  to  (31  M.)  Efringen.  The  con- 
struction of  the  line ,  which  winds  along  the  hillside  high  above 
the  river,  is  an  object  of  interest  between  Bellingen  and  Efringen. 
At  (33  M.)  Eimeldingen  (878  ft.)  the  train  crosses  the  Kander, 
beyond  which  a  line  view  is  disclosed.  35  M.  Haltingen;  37  M. 
Leopoldshohe,  whence  a  branch-line  diverges  to  St.  Ludwig  (p.  282). 
The  train  now  crosses  the  Wiese,  and  stops  at  the  station  of  (39  M.) 
Klein-Basel,  ^2  M.  from  the  Rhine-bridge,  and  connected  with  the 
central  station  at  Bale  by  a  junction-line. 

Bale.  —  Hotels.  *Drei  Konige,  on  the  Rhine,  B.  3-5,  L.  and  A. 
l»/»  fr. ;  *8chweizbrhof  and  *H6tel  Euleb,  at  the  central  station,  R.  3  fr. ; 

*LOBEKZ;   *H0FEB;  GOLDENEB  FALKE ;    *WlLDER  MaNN  }     STORCH;    KRONE ; 

Kopf;  SeHiFF.  —  At  Klein- Basel:  *H6tkl  Krafft;  ""Kreuz,  both  on  the 
Rhine;  Hotel  Michel,  Schrieder,  near  the  station. 

Bdle,  or  Basel,  the  capital  of  the  canton  Basel-Stadt(pop.  65,100), 
and  a  busy  commercial  place,  is  first  mentioned  in  374  as  Basilea, 
In  the  middle  ages  it  was  a  free  city  of  the  empire,  and  in  1501  it 
became  a  member  of  the  Swiss  Confederation.  The  *Mihnster  was 
erected  in  the  Gothic  style  in  the  14th  cent. ,  on  the  site  of  an 
older  Romanesque  building,  of  which  the  W.  portal  still  remains, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1363.  The  towers  were  not  completed  till 
1500.  In  the  interior  (sacristan  1/2  fr.)  are  some  very  fine  pieces  of 
sculpture  (monuments,  rood-loft)  of  the  12th-15th  centuries.  The 
Council  Hall,  so  named  from  the  convocation  which  sat  in  the  cathe- 
dral from  1431  to  1448,  contains  the  remains  of  the  celebrated  Basel 
Dance  of  Death  (1439).    The  cloisters  date  from  the  14th  and  15th 


336     Route  49.  BLACK  FOREST. 

centuries.  Extensive  view  from  the  Pfalt,  a  terrace  behind  the 
Munster.  The  *  Museum  (open  daily,  fee  1  fr.),  in  the  street  lead- 
ing from  the  Munster  to  the  bridge,  is  chiefly  valuable  for  its  col- 
lection of  paintings  and  drawings  by  Holbein  the  Younger  (b.  at 
Augsburg  1497,  d.  at  London  1543),  who  lived  at  Bale  in  1515-26 
and  1528-32,  and  executed  many  of  his  finest  works  here.  There 
are  also  a  number  of  good  works  by  modern  painters  (Vautier,  Ca- 
lame,  Girardet,  etc.).  Bale  contains  several  other  interesting  build- 
ings, such  as  the  Rathhaus  of  1508,  and  the  Spahlenthor,  built  in 
1400,  formerly  one  of  the  town-gates.  The  most  important  churches 
after  the  Munster  are  the  Gothic  Church  of  St.  Martin,  the  Church 
of  St.  Lconhard,  and  the  new  Church  of  St.  Elizabeth.  For  farther 
details  see  Baedeker's  Switzerland. 

49.  The  Black  Forest  (Duchy  of  Baden). 

Pedestrian  Tour  of  eleven  days  from  Baden.  1st.  Ebersteinschloss, 
Forbach,  8chdnmtinzach  (p.  338).  —  2nd.  Hornisgrinde,  Mummelsee, 
Allerheillgen  (p.  342).  —  3rd.  Oppenau,  (drive  to)  Griesbach,  (walk  to) 
Holzwalderhohe,  Bippoldsau,  Schapbach  (p.  346).  —  4th.  Wolfach,  Triberg 
(p.  347),  Furtwangen.  —  5th.  Simons w aid,  Waldkirch,  Denzlingen,  railway 
to  Freiburg  (p.  328).  —  6th.  Freiburg  and  Environs  (B.  48).  —  7th.  (Drive 
to  entrance  of  the)  Hollenthal,  Feldberg  (p.  355).  —  8th.  St  Blasien,  Hochen- 
schwand  (p.  360),  by  the  Albstrasse  to  Albbruck.  —  9th.  Railway  to  Brennet, 
Wehr  (cavern  at  Hasel),  Todtmoos  (p.  359).  —  10th.  Prag,  Schonau,  Belchen 
(p.  365).  —  11th.  Badenweiler  and  environs  (p.  362). 

The  maps  in  the  Handbook,  on  the  scale  of  1 :  250,000,  will  probably 
be  found  amply  sufficient  for  the  ordinary  traveller  •,  they  are  based  on  the 
Ordnance  Maps  of  Baden  (1:50,000;  l3/<  m.  per  sheet).  The  new  Ordnance 
Map,  on  a  scale  of  1 :  25,000,  is  not  yet  completed.  Several  good  special 
maps  have  also  been  published  by  Herder  of  Freiburg. 

Of  all  the  wooded  districts  of  Germany ,  none  present  so  beau- 
tiful and  varied  landscapes  as  the  Black  Forest,  especially  the  W. 
portion,  belonging  to  Baden,  the  spurs  of  which  decline  pre- 
cipitously towards  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  whilst  the  E.  slopes 
are  more  gradual.  The  Kinzigthal  (p.  344)  divides  the  mountains 
of  the  Black  Forest  into  two  portions ,  which  are  also  distinct  in 
regard  to  their  geological  formation:  vis.  the  Lower  Black  Fokbst 
to  the  N. ,  consisting  chiefly  of  variegated  sandstone,  and  cul- 
minating in  the  Hornisgrinde  (3825  ft. ;  p.  340) ;  and  the  Upper 
Black  Forest  to  the  S. ,  in  which  granite  and  gneiss  predominate, 
and  of  which  the  Feldberg  (4921  ft. ;  p.  355),  the  Belchen  (4641  ft.; 
p.  365),  the  Herzogshorn  (4583  ft.),  and  the  Barcnhalde  (4331  ft.) 
are  the  highest  mountains.  The  lower  heights  are  covered  with 
fragrant  pine  -  forests ,  while  the  populous  valleys  are  generally 
fertile  and  well  cultivated.  Numerous  mineral  springs  have  given 
rise  to  a  number  of  little  watering-places,  which  offer  tempting 
retreats,  and  good  inns  are  found  in  various  other  places.  Charges 
have  risen  of  late  years,  so  that  living,  even  in  the  remotest  dis- 
tricts, is  no  longer  so  remarkably  cheap  as  formerly.  (The  following 
is  the  average  scale:  R.  iy2-2m.,  B.  60pf.  to  lm.,  D.  iya-2Vtm.) 


Black  Forest.  MURGTHAL.  49.  Route.     337 

The  staple  commodity  is  timber,  which  is  floated  down  the  prin- 
cipal streams  to  the  Rhine ,  where  larger  rafts  are  constructed  and 
navigated  to  Holland.  The  great  timber-merchants,  locally  called 
'Scbiffer',  have  been  for  centuries  formed  into  the  so-called 
'Schiffergesellschaften'  (p.  323),  whose  profits  are  divided  in  shares 
termed  'Stamme'.  Their  extensive  forests  are  known  as  'Schiffer- 
wald'  in  contradistinction  to  the  'Herrschaftliche  Wald',  or  private 
property.  The  chief  branch  of  industry  in  the  Black  Forest  is 
clock-making,  while  straw-hats,  brushes,  and  wooden  wares  are 
also  extensively  manufactured.  In  this  prosperous  district  beggars 
are  unknown.  To  German  scholars  the  charms  of  the  Black  Forest 
will  be  much  enhanced  by  a  perusal  of  the  beautiful  Allemannische 
Oedichte  of  Hebel. 

The  Black  Forest  Club,  instituted  in  1873,  has  done  much  to  increase 
the  facilities  and  pleasures  of  a  tour  in  this  picturesque  district  by  the 
construction  of  paths,  the  erection  of  finger-posts,  etc.  The  headquarters 
of  the  club  are  at  Freiburg  (annual  subscription  4  m.  30  pf). 

a.  From  Baden  to  Oernabaeh  and  AllerheiUgen. 

Xurgthal,  Hornisgrinde,  Xummelsee. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  914. 

Two  Dais.  1st.  Baden  to  Gernsbach  6  M. ,  thence  to  Forbach  10  M. 
(or  from  Baden  to  Forbach  direct  12  M. ,  see  below) ,  Forbach  to  SchVn- 
mttnzach  7  M . ;  2nd.  Schonmunzach  to  the  summit  of  the  Hornisgrinde  41/* 
hrs. ,  down  to  the  Mummelsee  y8  hr.,  Seebach  1  hr.,  Ottenh&fen  1  hr.,  and 
thence  over  the  hill  to  AllerheiUgen  IVs  hr.  (or  from  the  Mummelsee  by 
the  Edit,  the  Wilde  See,  and  the  Ruhstein  to  AllerheiUgen,  4  hrs.).  — 
Conveyances  may  be  hired  at  Gernsbach ,  Forbach,  and  Schdnmiinzach ; 
tariff  from  Gernsbach,  see  p.  323.  —  From  Gernsbach  to  (141  2  M.)  Schdn- 
miinzach diligence  twice  daily  in  summer  in  4 1/4  hrs.,  and  to  (27 V*  M.) 
Freudenstadt  in  7*/«  hrs. 

The  *Murgthal  between  Gernsbach  and  Schonmunzach  is 
wild  and  beautiful.  The  slopes  are  richly  clothed  with  wood.  As  far 
as  Schonmunzach  the  rocks  consist  of  granite,  huge  blocks  of  which 
lie  scattered  about;  beyond  it  the  formation  is  gneiss,  whence  the 
smooth,  rounded  aspect  of  the  slopes.  Variegated  sandstone  also 
occurs.  The  valley  then  widens  and  loses  much  of  its  peculiar 
charm.  It  is  seen  to  the  best. advantage  in  descending. 

From  Baden  to  Qernsbach  and  the  Ebersteinschloss,  see  p.  322. 
The  road  in  the.  Murgthal  gradually  ascends  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  on 
which  Schloss  Eberstein  stands.  The  pedestrian  coming  from  For- 
bach follows  the  footpath  by  the  last  house  at  Obcrtsroth  (Blume), 
1  M.  from  Gernsbach,  in  order  to  reach  the  castle.  At  (1  M.)  Hil- 
pertsau  the  road  crosses  the  Murg. 

A  road  traversing  picturesque  scenery  leads  hence  by  Reichenthal  and 
the  forester's  house  of  Kaltenbronn,  and  past  the  (right)  Ebhloh  to  (21  If.) 
Wildbad  (comp.  p.  326). 

2V2  M.  (from  Gernsbach)  Weissenbach  (63b  ft. ;  *Gruner 
Baumyt  the  modern  Gothic  church  of  which  contains  some  good 
stainedrglass  and  modern  altar-pieces.  The  timber  felled  in  the 
neighbouring  forests  is  conveyed  by  land  to  Weissenbach,  and  is 

Baedekekb  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  22 


338     Route  49.  FORBACH.  Black  Forest. 

thence  floated  down  the  river.  The  hamlet  of  Au  lies  pictur- 
esquely on  the  left  hank  of  the  Murg.  The  valley  becomes  narrower 
and  wilder;  (2V2M.)I^ev*6t*md(872ft. ;  Ochs);  (IV2M.)  Gaus- 
bach  (*Waldhorn).  Near  (3/4  M.)  Forbach  the  new  road  crosses  the 
Murg  by  a  lofty  iron  bridge. 

Forbach  (1090  ft. ;  *Qrunar  Hof,  near  the  new  bridge ;  * Krone, 
a  little  farther  from  the  bridge,  B.  H/2  m.,  B.  60  pf. ;  Hirsch  and 
Lowe,  by  the  old  bridge),  a  thriving  village,  with  a  picturesque 
church  on  a  hill  and  a  vaniline  factory,  is  the  finest  point  in  the 
valley. 

The  Dibbct  Route  from  Baden  to  Forbach  (12  M.)  diverges  to  the  right 
from  the  road  to  Ebersteinschloss  at  a  finger-post  8/«  M-  beyond  Oberbeuem 
(p.  320) ;  »/«  M.  Qeisbach,  then  (i»/s  H.)  Schmalbach,  where  we  take  the 
road  to  the  left  \  i1/*  M .  farther,  the  broad  path  diverges  to  the  right  from 
the  road  and  leads  for  1  M.  along  the  B.  slope  of  the  hill,  passing  a  mea- 
dow. At  the  end  of  the  meadow  we  turn  to  the  left;  at  a  cross-way,  y4  M . 
farther,  we  ascend  the  hill  in  a  straight  direction;  in  1/i  M.  more  the 
main  road  is  reached  and  is  then  followed  for  1/4  M. ;  at  the  finger-post  we 
turn  to  the  left  to  (IV4  M.)  Bermersbach  (Zur  Blume).  The  path  now  ascends 
to  the  right  at  the  second  fountain  in  the  village,  and  i1^  H.  farther 
reaches  Forbach.    The  first  9  M.  are  chiefly  through  wood. 

A  lonely,  but  easily  traeed  forest-path  leads  from  Forbach  to  the  W. 
to  (8  hrs.)  HerrtnwiM  (Auerhah*),  a  village  situated  on  a  bleak  and  lofty 
plain  surrounded  by  high  mountains.  About  */»  br.  distant  is  the  forest- 
house  of  Sand  (*Inn:  summer-resort).  Near  Sand  is  the  Badener  Hdhe 
(3297  ft.),  clothed  with  beautiful  woods,  whence  a  carriage-road  leads  to 
Baden.  From  Sand  carriage-road  to  (9  M.)  Baden ;  another  through  the 
BUhlerthal  to  railway -stat.  BUM  (p.  32fi),  a  beautiful  walk  of  21/*  brs.  • 
across  the  Hundseck  (with  guide)  to  the  Homugrinde  and  Mummelsee  (p. 
340),  3  hours. 

Beyond  Forbach  the  Murgthal,  although  more  secluded,  con- 
tinues grand  and  beautiful.  About  halfway  to  Schonmiinzaoh  the 
Raucnmunxach  falls  into  the  Murg ;  1  M.  above  the  confluence  the 
former  is  augmented  by  the  Schwarzbach ;  below  the  'Fallbrflcke'  is 
a  picturesque  waterfall.  A  new  road  leads  through  the  valley  of  the 
Schwarzbach  to  (10l/2  M.)  Herrenwies  (see  above). 

14  M.  Sehdnmumach  (1496  ft.;  *GlashutU,  or  Post,  R.  1- 
13/4m.,  A.  40,  B.  70  pf.;  *Waldhorn;  Schiff),  the  first  village  in 
Wurtemberg,  contains  a  glass-work,  employing  seventy  hands,  and 
is  a  favourite  summer-resort.  The  Schonmflnzach  falls  into  the 
Murg  here.  To  the  Hornisgrinde,  see  below.  Carriage  to  the  Eckle 
14,  to  Ottenhofen  20,  to  Allerheiligen  28  m. 

About  y*  M.  above  Schonmiinzach  a  path  ascends  to  the  right  to  the 
Klararuh  and  the  0/s  br.)  iSehloss\  or  site  of  the  old  castle  of  Rauenfela, 
which  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  valley.  The  footpath  leads  thence 
through  the  valley  to  the  Of*  br.)  Saw  Mill.  Fine  view  on  emerging  from 
the  woods.  —  About  *UM.  to  the  S.  of  Schonmunsach  is  a  guide-post  indicat- 
ing the  way  to  a  swimming-bath.  —  In  the  mountains,  3  M.  to  the  W., 
is  the  solitary  Schurmsee. 

The  Murg,  l*/2  M.  beyond  Schonmiinzach,  penetrates  a  preci- 
pitous wall  of  rock,  beyond  which  the  valley  loses  its  wild  character. 
The  village  of  8chwarzenbcrg  (Ochs)  on  the  height  to  the  left  com- 
mands a  pleasant  view;  on  the  right  Hutxenbach ;  then  (2*/^  M.) 
Sehonengrund  (Hirsch),  whence  a  road  leads  to  the  N.  by  Besmfeld 


Black  Forest.  FREUDENSTADT.  49.  Route.     339 

and  Urnagold  to  EnsklosterU  (*Waldhorn),  and  through  the  Enzthal 
to  Wildbad  (p.  325>  On  this  road,  %  M.  from  Schonengrund,  are 
situated  the  scanty  remains  of  the  castle  of  Konigswart. 

The  next  village  in  the  Murgthal  is  (33/4  M.)  Rekhenbach 
(♦Sonne,  also  a  'pension'),  with  a  suppressed  Benedictine  abbey, 
founded  in  1082;  the  church,  a  flat-roofed  Romanesque  basilica 
with  a  W.  portico,  was  restored  in  1849. 

23V-_>  M.  Baiersbronn  (1913  ft. ;  Zum  Ochsen),  a  considerable 
village  at  the  confluence  of  the  Murg  and  the  Forbaeh. 

The  road  following  the  course  of  the  latter  passes  the  considerable 
government- foundries  of  Friedrichsthal  and  ChrUtophsthal ,  and  leads  to 
(4i/2  M.)  Freudenttadt  (*  Schtoarzwald  HdUl,  at  the  station,  outside  the 
town-,  PosUIAnde;  beer  at  the  Happen),  a  loftily-situated  town  of  Wur- 
temberg  (4200  inhab.),  with  a  curiously-constructed  Protestant  church,  built 
in  1601-8.  This  edifice  consists  of  two  naves  at  right  angles  to  each  other, 
in  one  of  which  the  male,  and  in  the  other  the  female  members  of  the 
congregation  sit,  while  the  altar  and  pulpit  are  placed  at  the  angle.  The 
Romanesque  font  from  the  convent  of  Alpirsbach  and  the  skilfully-carved 
choir-stalls  are  worthy  of  notice.  Near  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  xj%  M. 
from  the  town,  a  *View  of  the  Swabian  Alb,  Hohenzollern,  &c,  may  be 
enjoyed.  —  Good  roads  lead  from  Freudenstadt  to  the  W.  over  the  Kniebis 
(p.  343)  to  Oppenau,  and  to  the  S.  to  (liy4  H.)  Alpirsbach  (p.  346;  diligence 
daily)  and  Schiltach  (p.  346).  —  Railway  to  Stuttgart,  see  Baedeker's  8.  Ger- 
many. 

At  Baiersbronn  the  valley  of  the  Murg  turns  towards  the  N.W., 
and  is  traversed  by  a  new  road,  which  crosses  first  the  f}/^  M.) 
Forbaeh  and  then  the  (i/4  M.)  Murg.  From  (3  M.)  Mittelthal  (Wald- 
horn)  a  road  leads  S.  to  the  (41/2  M.)  Kniebis,  joining  the  road  de- 
scribed at  p.  343  near  the  Schwedenschanze  (p.  343).  About  l^M. 
farther  up  the  Murgthal,  into  which  numerous  brooks  are  precipi- 
tated from  the  Kniebis,  is  the  Schwan  Inn,  near  which  is  the  ruin 
of  Tannenfels,  situated  on  a  precipitous  rock  in  a  wild  gorge  to  the 
right.  We  then  soon  reach  the  first  houses  of  Oberthal,  whence  a 
road  (1 V2  M-  from  tne  'Schwan')  diverges  on  the  left  to  the  (l*/a  M.) 
large  Buhlbach  Glasshouse  (*Inn). 

The  road  continues  to  ascend,  forming  long  windings  towards  the 
top,  to  (6  M.)  the  Bnhstein  (3018 ft. ;  Inn;  to  the  Wilde  See  and 
Allerheiligen,  see  p.  340),  its  culminating  point,  whence  it  descends 
(commanding  several  fine  views)  into  the  valley  of  the  Acher.  Lastly 
it  passes  the  Wolfsbrunnen  Inn,  where  there  is  a  finger-post  indi- 
cating .the  way  to  the  Mummelsec  (3/4hr.,  p.  340),  and  reaches 
(3  M.)  Seebach.  

To  thh  Hobnisgbindb  and  Mummelsbb  two  roads  lead  from 
Sehonmunzach  (see  above),  the  Baden  road  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Schonrniinzach,  and  the  Wurtemberg  road  on  the  right.  Following 
the  latter,  which  diverges  at  the  Schiff  Inn,  beyond  the  bridge,  we 
reach  (3  M.)  Zwickgabel  (Inn),  cross  the  brook,  and  ascend  to  the 
right  along  the  Langenbach ,  which  at  Zwickgabel  unites  with  the 
Sehonmunzach.  The  road  then  passes  (l^M.)  Vorder-Langenbach, 
and  at  (2*/*  M.)  Hinter-Langenbach  (Zufle)  ascends  to  the  left. 

.     22* 


340     Route  49.  MUMMELSEE.  Black  Forest. 

About  l/tM.  farther  on  is  a  way-post,  indicating  the  route  to 
the  (4  M.)  Wilde  See  and  (12  M.)  AUerheiligen.  The  road  now 
ascends  more  rapidly  to  the  (3  M.)  BeipeUeckU  or  Ecklc,  the  angle 
of  a  wood,  with  a  refuge-hut  on  the  saddle  of  the  mountain,  where 
a  stone  marks  the  boundary  between  Wurtemberg  and  Baden,  and 
a  view  of  the  Vosges  is  obtained.  The  road  to  the  left  descends  to 
Setback  (see  below),  situated  on  the  new  road  through  the  Murg- 
thal ;  a  foot-path  only  leads  to  the  Hornisgrinde.   Stone  way-post. 

Thbbb  Paths  here  enter  the  wood:  that  most  to  the  right  leads 
to  the  S.E. ,  and  forms  the  boundary  between  the  above-men- 
tioned states ;  the  second  and  most  trodden,  also  inclining  to  the 
right,  leads  past  the  Drei-Furstenstein ,  bearing  the  arms  of  Ba- 
den and  Wurtemberg,  to  the  summit  of  the  Hornisgrinde.  The 
third  path  (to  the  MummeUee'),  at  first  little  trodden ,  after  a  few 
paces. joins  a  broad  track,  which  gradually  ascends  the  hillside 
(to  the  right);  the  broad,  stony  path  ascending  to  the  right,  10  min. 
from  the  Eckle,  then  leads  to  the  lake  in  */+  hour. 

From  the  Eckle  we  may  reach  AUerheiligen  in  4  hrs.  by  following  the 
boundary -stones  towards  the  S.E.,  passing  the  picturesque,  isolated  Wilde 
See  and  Ruhttein  (p.  339),  and  then  descending  to  the  S.W.  by  the  Mel- 
kereikopf. 

The  second  of  the  above  paths  leads  to  the  (1  hr.)  "Hornisgrinde 
(3825  ft.),  the  massive  tower  on  the  summit  of  which,  22  ft.  in 
height,  may  be  ascended  by  a  ladder  (adjacent  is  a  refuge-hut). 
The  bare  and  marshy  summit  commands  a  very  extensive  view, 
which  however  is  frequently  shrouded  in  mist :  to  the  E.  the  Swa- 
bian  Alb,  the  Achalm  at  Reutlingen ,  the  Rossberg  and  Hohenzol- 
lern,  the  Hohentwiel,  and  other  peaks  of  the  Hohgau ;  S.  the  heights 
of  the  Black  Forest,  the  Feldberg,  Belchen,  Blauen,  and  beyond 
them  even  the  Alps  (comp.  p.  365);  S.W.  the  Kaiserstuhl  (p.  333) 
and  Vosges;  W.  the  vast  plain  of  the  Rhine;  nearly  opposite  rises 
the  spire  of  Strassburg,  and  on  a  mountain  in  the  foreground  the 
extensive  ruins  of  the  Brigittenschloss  (p.  326) ;  N.  the  mountains 
around  Baden,  the  Yburg  and  the  Mercuriusberg  (p.  322). 

From  the  Hornisgrinde  a  stony  path,  bearing  to  the  right, 
descends  in  windings  to  the  S.E.,  and  after  t/j  ar*  reaches  the 
Mummelsee  (3385  ft.),  a  gloomy  little  lake,  surrounded  by  pine-clad 
mountains,  and  popularly  believed  to  be  inhabited  by  water-sprites. 
By  the  Seebach,  the  brook  issuing  from  the  lake  on  the  S.,  is  a  hut 
which  affords  shelter  in  bad  weather  (refreshments  in  summer). 

From  the  Mummelsee  we  descend  by  a  winding  footpath  to  the 
(20-25  min.)  road  from  the  Eckle,  which  we  follow  to  the  right  to 
the  (25  min.)  Baiersbronn  and  Ruhstein  road  (p.  339),  reaching  it 
at  the  inn  Zum  Wolfsbrunnen.  About  Oy^M.  farther  on  we  come  to 
Hinter-Seebach  (Zum  Adler,  moderate).  A  way-post  opposite  the 
'Adler'  indicates  a  path  with  steps  leading  to  (2  hrs.)  AUerheiligen ; 
and  others  are  placed  at  doubtful  points.  On  reaching  the  summit, 
after  a  stiff  climb  of  3/4  hr.,  we  keep  to  the  right.   The  road  at  first 


Black  Forest.  OTTENH&FEN.  49.  Route.    341 

traverses  extensive  tracts  of  debris,  commanding  a  view  of  the  valley 
of  the  Rhine,  and  then  descends  through  forest. 

The  village  of  Vorder - Seebach  (lower  part  1174  ft.,  upper 
1623  ft.;  Krone;  HirscK)  lies  on  the  high-road,  172M.  beyond 
Hinter  -  Seebach ,  and  extends  along  the  road  for  a  considerable 
distance.  Then  (*/*  hr.)  Hagenbrucke  (to  the  Edelfrauengrab,  see 
below),  and  (Y4  hr.)  Ottenhofen. 

b.  Allerheiligen  and  Buttenstein  Waterfalls. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  314. 

Two  Days.  1st.  From  Achem  to  Qriesbach,  24  M.,  better  by  carriage; 
2nd.  To  Wolfach,  24  M.  —  Or  the  traveller  may  accomplish  this  tour 
in  one  day  as  follows :  From  Achem  to  Ottenhofen  by  carriage  in  ltyi  hr. 
(diligence  at  9  a.m.) \  walk  to  Allerheiligen  j3/4  hr. ,  from  the  inn  to  the 
foot  of  the  falls  V«  br.  \  then  drive  to  Qriesbach  2>f\  hrs.  •,  walk  over  the 
Holzwalder  Hohe  to  Rippoldsau  2  hrs.  \  drive  (omnibus  twice  daily)  to 
Wolfach  23/4  hours. 

From  Oppenau  (p.  343)  Allerheiligen  is  reached  in  3  hours. 

Achern  (p.  326)  is  the  starting-point  for  this  tour.  The  road  to 
Allerheiligen  leads  through  the  Kappeler  Thai ,  a  pleasant ,  green 
dale  watered  by  the  Acker  (to  the  left  on  the  hill,  the  Brigitten- 
schloss,  p.  326),  past  the  villages  of  (}/2  M.)  Oberacfiern  and  (3  M.) 
Kappelrodech  (*Ochs ;  Linde),  the  latter  of  which  is  commanded  by 
the  chateau  of  Rodeck,  dating  as  far  back  as  the  8th  cent.,  and  re- 
cently altered  and  restored.  The  road  then  ascends  by  the  course 
of  the  Acher  to  (3  M.)  — 

6V2  M.  (from  Achern)  Ottenhofen  (1020  ft. ;  *Pflug,  R.  1  m.  40, 
B.  80  pf.,  D.  2  m. ;  Wagen;  *Linde;  all  unpretending,  and  with 
'pension'),  a  prettily  -  situated  village,  forming  suitable  headquar- 
ters for  a  number  of  pleasant  excursions. 

From  Ottenhofen  to  Allerheiligen  by  the  Edelfrauengrab  and 
the  Bl&chereck  (2l/i  hrs.),  a  very  attractive  walk.  In  front  of  the  church 
turn  to  the  left,  then  follow  the  footpath  immediately  to  the  right,  and 
the  road  to  the  left  higher  up ,  which  diverges  from  the  road  to  Aller- 
heiligen at  a  point  about  300  yds.  beyond  the  church.  After  10  min.  follow 
the  middle  road  in  a  straight  direction,  traverse  the  pretty  Gottschl&gthal, 
cross  the  brook  several  times,  and  finally  ascend  by  steps  to  the  (20  min.) 
Edelfrauengrab  ('grave  of  the  noble  lady") ,  a  very  insignificant  grotto  to 
which  a  romantic  legend  attaches.  The  environs  are  very  picturesque, 
especially  the  road  ascending  beyond  this  point  past  the  numerous  pretty 
cascades.  Then  (1  hr.)  BUfchereck,  beyond  which  the  wood  is  traversed, 
and  the  new  road  soon  reached  (see  below)  \  lfo  hr.,  Allerheiligen.  — 
Travellers  coming  from  Seebach  (see  above)  may  diverge  to  the  left  at  the 
Hagenbriicke,  beyond  the  Edelfrauengrab,  ty4  M.  before  reaching  Ottenhofen. 

The  carriage-road  from  Ottenhofen  to  Allerheiligen  ascends  the 
Unterwasser-Thal  towards  the  S.  to  the  (21/*  M.)  Neuhaus  (Erb- 
prinz).  Here  the  new  road  describes  a  wide  curve  in  the  valley  to- 
wards the  left,  while  the  old  road  ascends  the  steep  slope  on  the  right, 
on  the  summit  of  which  the  roads  again  unite.  Fine  retrospective 
views  from  the  new  road;  1^2  M.  from  the  Neuhaus  a  way  -post 
indicates  the  way  to  the  Edelfrauengrab  by  Blochereck  (see  above). 

From  the  top  of  the  hill  (from  which  a  short-cut  descends  by 


342    Route  49.  ALLERHEILIGEN.  Black  Forest. 

steps  to  the  right)  the  road  descends  in  windings  to  (21/* M.)  *Aller- 
heiligen  (1968  ft.),  the  first  glimpse  of  which  is  very  striking.  The 
grand  ruins  of  the  Premonstratensian  abbey ,  founded  by  the  Du- 
chess Uta  of  Schauenburg  in  1196,  secularised  in  1802,  and  partly 
destroyed  by  lightning  in  1803 ,  occupy  almost  the  entire  breadth 
of  the  wooded  dale.  The  Inn  is  often  full  (R.  2,  D.  2%  'pens.' 
6-10  m.). 

Immediately  below  the  monastery  is  a  rugged  cleft  in  the  rocks, 
formed  by  an  earthquake,  through  which  the  Qrundenbach  is 
precipitated  into  the  valley  beneath  over  blocks  of  granite  in 
seven  falls,  called  the  'Sieben  Butten1  (seven  cauldrons),  or  *But- 
tenitein  Falls,  some  of  them  50  ft.  in  height.  A  good  path,  cut 
through  the  rock  at  places,  descends  by  the  falls  to  the  (20  min .) 
bottom  of  the  valley,  300  ft.  below.  From  the  second  'Rondel',  or 
platform ,  the  double  fall  is  best  surveyed.  The  waterfalls ,  the 
picturesque  accessories  of  which  form  their  chief  attraction ,  are 
seen  to  most  advantage  in  ascending  from  the  valley  below.  The 
best  way  of  approaching  them  is«  accordingly,  to  take  the  footpath 
to  the  'Louisenruhe,  Engelskanzel,  and  Teufelsstein',  which  di- 
verges to  the  right  of  the  barn,  opposite  the  new  Logirhaus,  and 
leads  through  wood  to  the  (V2  ftr.)  road  at  the  foot  of  the  falls ;  then 
ascend  the  path  to  the  (Y2  hr.)  Inn. 

Fbom  Allebheiliokn  to  Rippoldsau  direct  (5  hrs.)  over  the  Kniebia 
(guide  unnecessary,  way -posts  everywhere).  The  route  diverges  to  the 
left  at  a  finger-post  ('Zur  Zufluchf )  on  the  way  to  the  foils,  a  few  yards 
from  the  inn,  and  runs  through  wood  for  the  first  hour*,  farther  on,  an  ex- 
tensive prospect  is  enjoyed,  embracing  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  Strasaburg, 
and  the  Vosges  Hts.  •,  2V»  hrs.  Refuge  (see  below)  by  the  Schwedenschanze  \ 
1  hr.  Kniebis;  !»/»  hr.  Rippoldsau  (p.  347).  A  shorter  route  thither  leads 
from  the  Alexander  tchanze :  follow  the  Oriesbach  road  for  Vs  H.,  then  enter 
the  wood  to  the  left ;  after  20  min.  more,  where  the  path  divides,  select  that 
descending  rapidly  to  the  right. 

Fbom  Allkrhkiligkn  to  Oppenau,  27s  hours.  The  carriage-road,  as 
above  mentioned,  passes  at  the  foot  of  the  waterfalls,  crosses  a  bridge  to  the 
left,  and  follows  the  bank  of  the  Htrbach  (as  the  Qrundenbach  is  now 
called),  high  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  At  the  Kreuz  Inn ,  near  Oppenau, 
the  Kniebis  -Strasse  and  the  road  to  (3  M.)  Antogast  (see  below)  diverge 
to  the  left. 

From  Allebheiliokn  to  Sdlzbach  (see  below),  I1/*  hour.  We  descend 
by  the  waterfalls  to  the  high-road,  which  we  ascend  for  »/«  M.  to  a  atone 
finger-post  on  the  right,  indicating  the  way  over  the  hill  to  (3  M.)  Sulzbach. 

From  Allerheiligen  to  Oberkirch  (see  below),  across  the  SoMbery^  in 
3  hrs.,  a  pleasant  but  somewhat  steep  route  (numerous  finger-posts). 

c.  Benchthal  Bailway.    Kniebis  Baths. 

Railway  from  Appenweier  to  Oppenau ,  12  M.,  in  40-60  min. ;  fares 
1  m.  90,  1  m.  45,  96  pf. 

Appenweier ,  see  p.  326.  The  train  ascends  the  Renchthal  to 
(2»/2M.)  Zwenhofen.  —  57a  M.  Oberkirch  (•J&tnde,  'pension'  4  m. ; 
mOehs,  with  shady  garden,  'pens.'  4  m. ;  AdUr),  situated  on  the 
slope  of  the  hill,  at  the  entrance  to  the  narrower  Renchthal.  About 
lVs  M.  to  the  left  of  Oberkirch  lie  the   ruins  of  Schauenburg, 


Black  Fore*.  OPPENAU.  49.  Route.     343 

whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained;  Von  Haberer's  Out  is  another  good 
point  of  view.  —  71/2  M.  Lautenbach  (Schwan ,  well  spoken  of, 
good  wine).  —  9  M.  Hubacker,  station  for  Sulzbach,  a  small  bath 
(3/4  M.  to  the  N. ;  'pension'  5  m.),  with  a  saline  spring  (70°  Fahr.); 
from  Sulzbach  to  Allerheiligen,  see  above. 

12  M.  Oppenau,  —  Hotels.  *Stahlbad,  *Post  or  Enqkl,  belonging  to 
the  same  owner;  Hibsch;  Blums,  on  the  way  to  the  station;  Fobtuna, 
opposite  the  station,  unpretending.  —  Taubk,  with  mineral  baths,  l1/*  M. 
from  Oppenan,  on  the  road  to  Allerheiligen  (see  below).  —  Hotel  zum  Fin- 
kbn,  see  below.    Zum  Kbahz  Bbbwbbt,  B.  1  m.,  well  spoken  of. 

Diligence  to  (5  M.)  Petersthal  and  (7>/s  H.)  Griesbach  thrice  daily  in 
summer.    An  Omnibus  from  the  Rench  Baths  meets  the  trains. 

Oppenau,  a  busy  little  town,  with  1900  inhab.,  is  frequented 
as  a  summer-resort.  ^Kirschwasser*  is  largely  manufactured  here. 
—  A  conspicuous  pavilion,  or  belvedere,  near  the  town  commands 
an  excellent  view;  it  is  reached  in  20-25  min.  by  passing  the  N. 
side  of  the  church ,  to  the  left  of  the  cTurn-Platz',  and  after  about 
350  paces  taking  the  footpath  on  the  left ,  which  at  first  ascends 
in  steps. 

Close  by  the  Oppenau  station ,  the  high-road  divides,  the  right 
(S.)  branch  being  the  Renchthal  road  (see  below),  and  the  left(E.) 
arm  leading  to  the  Kniebis.  The  latter  passes  through  Oppenau. 
Immediately  beyond  the  Rathhaus  the  road  to  (3  M.)  Antogast 
(1585  ft. ;  *Huber),  one  of  the  Kniebis  Baths ,  charmingly  situated 
in  the  pretty  Maisachthal ,  and  known  as  early  as  the  16th  cent., 
diverges  to  the  right;  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  leads  to  Aller- 
heiligen (see  above).   Footpath  to  (6  M.)  Griesbach  (see  below). 

The  Kniebis  Road  ascends  the  Rossbuhl  from  Oppenau  in 
windings  (pleasing  retrospects)  to  the  (6  M.)  Schwabenschame 
('Swabian  intrenchment*),  an  ancient  earth- work ;  1/4  M.  to  the  S. 
is  the  Schwedenschanze  (road  to  Baiersbronn,  see  p.  339);  near  it, 
the  inn  *Zur  Zuflucht.  About  l1/*  M.  farther  is  the  grass-grown 
Alexanderschanse  (Inn),  on  the  summit  of  the  Kniebis  (3192  ft.), 
where  the  Renchthal  road  joins  ours  (see  below).  At  the  inn  Zum 
Lamm,  1 V4  M.  farther,  another  road  diverges,  leading  to  Rippoldsau 
(p.  347)  by  the  E.  side  of  the  Holzwalder  Hohe.  The  Kniebis  road 
then  leads  by  the  Wurtemberg  village  of  Kniebis  (*Ochs)  to(63/4M.) 
Freudenstadt  (p.  339).        

The  road  continuing  to  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Rench  (diligence 
thrice  daily)  passes  through  a  small  part  only  of  Oppenau,  and  leads 
southwards  to  the  'Kniebis  Baths'  of  Freiersbach,  Petersthal,  and 
Griesbach.  Near  (IV2  M.)  Ibach  is  the  picturesquely  situated 
Gaethaue  sum  Finken ('pension').  From (3% M.)  Z^cferber? (*Pflug) 
a  gently-ascending  road,  affording  various  fine  views,  leads  through 
the  pleasant  'valley  and  across  the  Hermersbcrg  to  (4*^  M.)  Ober- 
harmersbach (Sonne;  Drei  Schweinskopfe),  Niederharmersbaeh  (*Ad- 
Jer),  and  (IO1/2  M.)  Zell  (p.  345). 


344     Route  49.  PETERSTHAL.  Black  Forest. 

The  next  place  in  the  Re  rich  thai  is  (2l/4  M.  from  Locherberg) 
Bad  Freienbach  (1260  ft. ;  Meyer's  Hotel,  with  baths),  with  sul- 
phureous 8p rings ,  situated  in  a  pretty  dale,  enclosed  by  lofty  hills. 
(The  village  of  Freiershaeh  is  iy2  M.  distant,  in  the  lateral  valley 
of  Petersthal.)  Then  p/4  M.) — 

5  M.  (from  Oppenau)  Petersthal  (1320  ft.;  *Stahlbad,  bath 
85  pf . ;  *Bar ;  Muller's  Hotel  and  Baths,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
village,  often  crowded,  D.  2  m.  80 pf.,  bath  1  m.),  the  most  important 
of  these  small  watering-places,  in  a  sheltered  situation,  embellished 
with  well-kept  grounds.  The  four  springs  contain  iron  and  carbonic 
acid  gas.  The  baths,  which  were  known  in  the  16th  cent.,  are 
frequented  by  about  1400  patients  annually. 

A  beautiful  route  leads  hence  to  the  E.  through  the  Freier$thal  into 
the  Schapbachthal  (p.  846).  We  take  the  road  to  the  left  at  the  Hotel 
zum  Baren  in  Petersthal,  and  reach  the  top  of  the  hill  in  llA  hour. 
Pedestrians  may  reduce  the  distance  by  crossing  the  stream  to  the  right 
at  a  point  '/»  hr.  from  Petersthal,  and  ascending  a  steep  path  through 
forest  in  an  easterly  direction.  A  few  paces  farther  on  we  take  the 
narrower  path  to  the  right.  In  8  min.  it  passes  obliquely  across  the 
carriage-road,  which  it  rejoins  in  8  min.  more.  A  way-post  indicating 
the  road  to  Schapbach  stands  on  the  road-side  a  few  paces  farther  on. 
After  reaching  the  culminating  point  we  descend  through  the  picturesque 
Wildschapbachthal  to  (i«/s  hr.)  Schapbach  (p.  346). 

A  pleasant  footpath  leads  from  Petersthal  to  Antogcut  in  2  hra., 
passing  the  hamlet  of  DSttetbach  on  the  road-side;  at  the  telegraph-post 
numbered  458  we  ascend  through  the  covered  gateway. 

The  Renchthal  now  turns  to  the  N.E.    In  %  hr.  we  reach  — 

71/2  M.  (from  Oppenau)  Griesbach  f  1626  ft. ;  *Monsch-JockersVs 
Baths,  an  extensive  establishment,  D.  ii/jm, ;  Adler),  possessing  a 
chalybeate  spring,  which  has  been  highly  valued  for  200  years. 
Most  of  the  patients  (1100  in  number)  are  ladies. 

The  road  through  the  Renchthal  (diligence  once  daily)  now 
ascends  in  windings  to  the  Kniebis,  the  summit  of  which  is  reached 
at  the  (lt/gbr.)  Alexanderochanze.  Hence  to  Rippoldsau  or  Freudcn- 
stadtj  see  p.  343. 

Footpath  fbom  Griesbach  to  Rippoldsau,  2  hours.  We  follow  the 
road  just  named  for  */*  H.  from  the  Griesbach  Baths  and  quit  it  at  a  point 
where  it  bends  sharply  to  the  left,  keeping  straight  on  for  a  few  paces 
farther  and  then  by  a  stone  finger-post  taking  the  broad  track  provided 
with  benches,  which  leads  to  the  left  through  the  wood.  The  path  to 
the  Teufelskanzel  diverges  to  the  right  1/2  br.  farther  on.  About  5  min. 
below  the  summit  is  the  'Sophien-Ruhe',  which  affords  a  fine  retrospect 
of  the  Griesbach  Valley.  The  highest  part  of  the  route  is  called  the 
Holswalder  Hdhe  (9005  ft),  where  the  path  for  several  hundred  paces  is 
nearly  level.  It  then  descends  gradually  in  long  windings,  passing  after 
a  few  paces  a  flight  of  steps  on  the  left,  used  for  the  timber-traffic  to 
the  (*/«  hr.)  Kniebis  Road  (p.  343),  which  leads  us  to  (1  M.)  RippoUUan 
(p.  347). 

d.  From  Offenburg  to  Constance.    Tiyi«igtw^iT    Bippoldtau. 

113  M.  Railway  in  4i/r4ty«  hrs.  (fares  14  m.  40,  9  m.  66,  6  m.  15  pf. : 
by  express  16  m.  40,  11  m.  56  pf.). 

The  *Schwarzwald  Railway,  opened  in  1873,  is  one  of  the  most 
striking  in  Germany,  both  in  point  of  scenery  and  construction.  The 
most  interesting  part  is  that  between  Hausach  and  Villingen  (pp.  346-349), 


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Black  Forest.  HAUSACH.  49.  Route.     345 

which  was  constructed  in  1867-73  at  a  cost  of  1,125,000*.  Between  Hausach 
and  Sommerau,  a  distance  of  23  M.,  the  line  ascends  no  less  than  1938  ft. 
There  are  38  tunnels,  varying  in  length  from  20  to  1866  yds.,  6  large 
bridges,  and  136  smaller  bridges.  The  line  attracts  numerous  travellers, 
and  the  inns  at  Hausach,  Hornberg,  Triberg,  and  other  picturesque  points 
are  often  full. 

Offenburg,  see  p.  327.  — The  line  traverses  the  broad,  populous, 
and  fertile  Kinzigthal ,  a  valley  enclosed  by  gently-sloping  moun- 
tains. 3  M.  Orieriberg  (Krone),  above  which,  on  a  vine-clad  hill, 
rises  the  chateau  of  *Ortenberg,  occupying  the  site  of  an  ancient 
stronghold  destroyed  by  Marshal  Cre*qui  in  1668.  The  grounds 
of  the  chateau  are  prettily  laid  out,  and  the  interior  is  tastefully 
fitted  up. 

6i/4  M.  Gengenbach  (580ft. ;  Adler;  Sonne),  with  2300  inhab., 
an  independent  town  down  to  the  Peace  of  LuneMlle,  still  exhibits 
traces  of  its  former  importance  in  its  walls,  gates,  and  towers, 
although  most  of  the  buildings  have  been  erected  since  the  de- 
struction of  the  town  by  the  French  in  1689.  The  handsome  old 
Benedictine  Abbey,  to  which  the  town  owes  its  origin,  was  also 
formerly  independent  of  all  external  jurisdiction. 

10  M.  Schonberg.  1U/A  M.  Biberach  (Krone;  Sonne),  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Harmersbach.  On  the  latter,  2*/2  M.  distant,  lies  the 
thriving  village  of  Zell  (Hirach  /  Lowe) ;  the  valley  there  divides 
into  the  Unterharmersbachthal  and  the  Nordrachthal,  through  both 
of  which  are  roads  leading  to  the  Renchth*l  (p.  343). 

From  Bibbbach  to  Lahk  (9  M.)  a  road  leads  by  Sch dnberg ,  a  solitary 
inn,  whence  it  descends  through  the  Schutterthal  by  Reichenbach  and  Kuh- 
bach.  About  4y2  H.  to  the  W.  of  Biberach,  and  2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Schon- 
berg inn  (see  above),  rises  a  lofty  and  precipitous  rock,  crowned  with 
the  ruins  of  Hohengeroldteck ,  an  extensive  castle  destroyed  by  Marshal 
Crequi  in  1697,  and  commanding  a  complete  *Survey  of  the  Kinzigthal,  the 
Schutterthal,  and  the  plain  of  the  Rhine.    Lahr,  see  p.  327. 

Before  (I41/2  M.  J  Steinach  is  reached ,  the  line  crosses  the 
Kinzig.  17  M.  Haslach  (728  ft. ;  *  Furstenberg' scher  Hof,  'pens'. 
4  m.,  baths  in  the  garden;  Kreuz),  the  chief  town  of  the  district, 
formerly  in  the  principality  of  Furstenberg ,  was  destroyed  by  the 
French  on  their  retreat  after  the  battle  of  Hochstadt.  In  the  door- 
way of  the  Church,  which"  escaped  destruction,  is  a  Romanesque 
relief  of  the  12th  century. 

The  road  leading  hence  to  the  S.  by  Hofstetten  to  (9  H.)  Elzach  (p. 
361)  traverses  beautiful  scenery ;  on  the  left,  halfway,  rise  the  insignificant 
ruins  of  the  Eeidburg, 

211/4  M.  Hausach  (783  ft.;  *H6tel  Schmider,  at  the  station, 
R.  2  m.,  A.  50  pf. ;  Krone)  is  a  small  town  with  1400  inhab.,  com- 
manded by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  of  the  princes  of  Furstenberg, 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1643. 


From  Hausach  to  Rippoldsau  ,  163/4  M.  Railway  to  (3y4  M.) 
Wolfach  in  14  min.  (fares  40,  30,  20  pf.);  thence  diligence  and 
omnibus  twice  daily  in  3  hours.  —  The  train  ascends  the  Kinzig- 
thal.   13/4  M.  Kirnbach. 


346     Route  49.  WOLFAEH.  Black  Forest. 

31/4  M.  Wolfach  (869  ft.;  *8alm,  R.  iy2,  D.  2  m.-,  *Bother 
Ochse;  *Engel;  *  Krone),  the  chief  town  of  the  district,  with  a 
handsome  *Amtshau8',  formerly  a  chateau ,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
town,  is  situated  between  abrupt  mountains  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Wolfbach  and  the  Kinzig.  The  Pine-cone  Baths  attract  a  number 
of  visitors. 

A  railway  through  the  Kinzigthal,  which  higher  up  is  called  the  Vor- 
dere  Lehngerieht,  is  now  in  progress;  it  will  lead  to  Schiltach,  Alpirsbach, 
and  Freudenstadt.  The  road  ascends  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kinzig, 
passing  the  picturesque  chapel  of  St.  Jakob,  on  the  slope  to  the  right.  At 
(3  M.)  Halbmeil  (Zum  Engel;  Lowe)  it  crosses  to  the  left  bank.  Then 
(6  M.)  Sehiltath  (1118  ft. ;  *  Krone;  Ochs),  an  old  town  situated  at  the  union 
of  the  Schiltach  and  the  Kinzig,  with  a  modern  church,  and  a  ruined  castle 
on  a  hill.  A  good  road  leads  through  the  SchHtachthal  C Sinter e  Lehn- 
geriehf)^  which  here  opens  on  the  S.,  to  (6*/i  M.)  Sehramberg  (see  below; 
127?  M.  from  Wolfach).  —  3  M.  Schenkentell  (Sonne  -,  Ochs ;  Drei  Konige), 
the  next  village  in  the  Kinzigthal,  carries  on  an  extensive  traffic  in  tim- 
ber. An  arm  of  the  Kinzig  here  descends  from  the  17.,  from  the  Reinerzau, 
a  picturesque  valley,  through  which  a  road  leads  to  Vormthal  (*L.inde), 
Be  meek  (Traube),  and  (13Vs  M.)  Freudenstadt  (p.  339).  The  last  village  in 
the  Kinzigthal  is  (4'/2  M. ;  12'/*  M.  from  Wolfach)  Alpirsbaeh  CLihoe ;  Schwa*), 
which  carries  on  a  considerable  traffic  in  timber  and  straw-hats.  The 
church,  a  Romanesque  building  of  the  12th  cent.,  contains  the  tombs  of 
some  members  of  the  Hoheneollern  family  (14-15th  cent.);  in  the  porch 
the  tusk  of  a  mammoth  has  hung  from  time  immemorial.  High-road 
hence  through  the  Ehlenbogenthal  to  (12  H.)  Freudenstadt;  another  to 
Fluorn  and  (101/*  M.)  Oberndorf  on  the  Upper  Neckar  railway  (comp.  Bae- 
deker's 8.  Germany). 

The  road  to  Rippoldsau  quits  the  Kinzigthal  and  ascends  the 
valley  of  the  Wolf  bach,  which  it  crosses  several  times.  After  about 
l*/2  M.  it  reaches  the  church  of  the  scattered  village  of  Oberwolfach 
(938  ft. ;  Zur  Linde). 

At  the  entrance  to  (6  M.)  Schapbach  [*Ochs,  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  village ;  Adler  and  Sonne,  farther  up)  the  Wildschapbachthal, 
through  which  leads  the  road  to  Petersthal  (p.  344),  opens  to  the 
left.  Schapbach  is  another  scattered  village,  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  which  still  wear  their  picturesque  old  costume  (see  below). 
The  curiously-constructed  houses  have  stabling  on  the  ground-floor, 
the  dwelling-rooms  above,  and  a  hay-loft  under  the  roof. 

Near  the  (21/*  M.)  Seebach  Inn  the  Setback,  formed  by  the 
discharge  of  the  sequestered  Olaswaldsee,  a  lake  situated  on  a  hill 
4  M.  from  the  road ,  emerges  from  a  wild  side-valley  on  the  left. 
About  1  M.  farther  huge  granite  rocks  rise  to  the  right  of  the  road ; 
near  them  is  the  waterfall  of  the  Burbach,  only  visible  after  rain. 
We  next  reach  (3/4  M.)  the  — 

Klbstcrle  (*Zum  Erbprinzen),  formerly  a  Benedictine  priory, 
with  a  church  with  two  towers ,  founded  in  the  12th  cent,  by  the 
Benedictines  of  St.  Georgen.  It  lies  3/4  M.  below  Rippoldsau, 
visitors  to  the  baths  of  which  often  lodge  here. 

From  the  Klosterle  to  Freudenstadt,  7'/s  V • ;  footpath  through  the 
woods.  Passing  the  church  we  turn  to  the  right,  cross  the  brook,  and 
take  the  broad  and  shady  forest-path  to  the  right  (stone  finger-post).  At 
ZuHeselbaeh  the  path  forks,  the  left  arm  leading  to  Freudenstadt  (p.  339* 
the  right  to  Schenkentell  (see  above).  •  V  h 


Black  Forest.  TRIBERG.  49.  Route.     347 

Bippoldsan  (1856  ft. ;  mOoringerts  Hotel  and  Bath-house,  often 
full,  D.  3,  bath  1  i/2  m.)  lies  at  the  S.  base  of  the  Kniebis  (p.  343), 
in  a  very  narrow  part  of  the  Wolfthal.  It  is  the  most  frequented 
and  best-organised,  but  also  the  most  expensive  of  the  Kniebis 
Baths  (1500  visitors  annually).  The  water  of  the  five  springs,  con- 
taining iron,  earthy  ingredients,  and  Glauber's  salts,  is  considered 
beneficial  in  cases  of  bowel-complaint.  It  is  exported  in  bottles 
(800,000  annually),  and  the  salt  is  also  sold  under  the  name  of 
'Rippoldsau  salts'.    The  environs  afford  many  pleasant  walks. 

From  Rippoldsau  across  the  Holzwalder  Hohe  to  Oriesbach,  see  p.  344; 
across  the  Kniebis  to  Oppenau,  see  p.  343. 

The  *Railway  leaves  the  Kinzigthal  above  Hausach  ,  turns  to 
the  right  at  Am  Thurmy  and  ascends  the  picturesque  and  fertile 
valley  of  the  Outaeh.  —  23  M.  Qutaeh  (920  ft. ;  Lowe). 

27M.  Hcrnberg(1265ft. ;  *Bar,  R.  2m. ;  Post  oiLowe,  R.  1  m. 
30 pf. ;  Krone'),  an  old  town  of  1900inhab.,  with  a  War  Monument 
near  the  church.  The  costume  of  the  peasantry  here  is  interest- 
ing. The  women  wear  black  petticoats,  short- waisted  green  bod- 
ices, and  broad-brimmed  straw-hats  or  black  caps  with  projecting 
flaps  at  the  sides.  The  hats  of  the  married  womeu  are  adorned 
with  black  rosettes,  and  those  of  the  girls  with  red.  The  men  wear 
black  coats  with  a  red  lining.  The  picturesque  chateau,  situated 
on  a  precipitous  hill,  was  taken  in  1703  by  Marshal  Villars,  but 
soon  recovered  by  the  peasantry. 

From  Hornberg  to  Elzach,  13V*  M.  About  l'/«  M.  below  Hornberg 
our  road  diverges  to  the  W.  from  the  Hausach  road.  Near  Landwasser  it 
reaches  the  Prechthal,  in  which  it  then  descends.    Elzach*  see  p.  351. 

From  Hornberg  to  Schrambebg,  a  charming  walk  of  IOV2  M. 
through  the  Sch&nachthal,  by  Lauterbaeh.  Schr&mberg  (*Fost;  Hirtch),  a 
busy  little  town,  prettily  situated  on  the  Schiltach,  is  commanded  by  the 
lofty  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  Picturesque  toad  thence  to  (6  M.)  Schiltach 
(p.  346).  The  return  -  route  to  Hornberg  may  be  made  by  the  "Berneck,  a 
romantic  rocky  valley,  and  (6  H.)  Thennenbronn  (Krone);  thence  passing 
above  Qertbach,  to  the  Reichenbachthal,  through  which  a  road  descends  to 
(6  M.)  Hornberg. 

The  most  curious  part  of  the  line  is  between  Hornberg  and 
(18  M.)  St.  Georgen.  For  some  distance  the  railway  runs  parallel 
with  the  road,  which ,  like  the  line  itself,  is  in  many  places  hewn 
in  the  rock,  and  then  ascends  the  narrow  wooded  Gutachthal. 
Above  the  village  of  Niederwasser  (1380  ft.),  which  we  observe  to 
the  right,  Is  the  'Niederwasser  Kehrtunnel',  where  the  first  great 
curve  begins.  Tunnels  (of  which  there  are  26  between  Hornberg 
and  St.  Georgen),  viaducts,  and  bridges  follow  in  rapid  succession. 
The  gradient  varies  from  1 :  58  to  1 :  50.  —  The  road  from  Hornberg 
to  Triberg  is  very  interesting  for  pedestrians,  and  affords  good  views 
of  thef remarkable  structure  of  the  railway. 

35i/2  M.  Triberg.  —  The  station  (2022  ft.)  lies  close  to  the  'Kreuz- 
brucke*,  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  from  St.  Georgen  and  Furtwangen, 
and  about  1/1  M-  from  the  town  (2245  ft.),  to  which  omnibuses  run. 
Porter,  for  luggage  under  Golbs.,  60  pf. ;  to  the  Schwarswald  and  Bellevue 


348     Route  49.  ST.  GEORGEN.  Black  Fore$t. 

hotels  60  pf.  —  From  the  station  to  the  market-place  •/§  H.  •-,  thence  to  the 
Falls  10-15  min.  more  $  so  that  the  walk  from  the  station  to  the  Falls  and 
back  takes  lV*-2  hours. 

Hotels.  *Schwabzwald,  in  a  beautiful  situation,  1/4  H.  from  the  Falls, 
with  view  of  the  valley,  often  full  in  summer,  table-d'hdte  at  1,  8,  and 
5  p.m.,  4  m.,  B.  1  m.,  R.  2l/2m-,  A.  50  pf. ;  *L6we,  in  the  town,  also  first- 
class,  R.  from  IV2  m. ;  *Ochs,  R.  2  m.,  B.  lm.;  *Bellevue,  high  up,  with 
view;  *Sqnne  ;  Adleb,  Engkl,  Wilder  Mann,  Li  lie,  all  unpretending.  — 
Duffner**  Restaurant ,  opposite  the  Ochs  Hotel,  to  the  right  of  the  main 
street,  with  baths. 

In  summer  the  Falls  are  illuminated  several  times  a  week. 

Triberg,  which  was  re-built  after  the  great  fire  of  1826,  lies  in 
the  heart  of  the  Black  Forest,  and  is  one  of  the  principal  centres  of 
the  trade  in  watches  and  clocks,  numerous  specimens  of  which  are 
always  to  be  seen  in  the  Industrial  Exhibition  (adm.  50  pf.). 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  town  stands  a  finger-post,  the  left  arm 
of  which  indicates  the  way  to  the  waterfall ,  past  the  Schwarzwald 
Hotel,  while  the  right  arm  points  across  the  bridge  to  the  Industrial 
Exhibition.  Beyond  the  Schwarzwald  Hotel  we  take  the  lower 
path  to  the  right,  and  in  5  min.  reach  a  projecting  rock,  from  which 
the  best  general  view  is  obtained.  The  *Watbbfall,  formed  by 
the  Fallback,  is  the  finest  in  W.  Germany.  The  stream,  which  is 
here  of  considerable  volume,  is  precipitated  from  a  height  of  426  ft., 
and  divided  into  seven  distinct  leaps  by  huge  blocks  of  granite.  The 
frame  -  work ,  like  that  of  the  Giessbach  in  Switzerland,  is  formed 
by  dark  pines.  The  best  points  are  reached  by  good  paths.  A 
pleasant  footpath  ascends  on  the  right  bank,  with  several  fine 
points  of  view.  Visitors  who  are  pressed  for  time  need  not  go 
beyond  the  (10  min.)  bridge.  In  20-25  min.  more,  above  the  falls, 
and  close  to  the  Inn  Zum  Wasserfall,  we  reach  the  road  to  Schon- 
wald  and  Furtwangen  (p.  351),  by  which  we  return. 

The  road  from  Triberg  to  Schonach,  from  which  the  Furtwangen  road 
diverges  to  the  left  by  the  WallfahrtsJdrche  (p.  350),  a  few  hundred  paces 
above  Triberg,  ascends  the  Unterthal  to  the  N.W.  From  (3  M.)  Scho- 
nach (2910  ft. ;  Lamm)  we  may  either  continue  to  follow  the  road  to  the 
tf.W.,  and  pass  through  the  Oberthal  into  the  Prechthal  (p.  347),  or,  turn- 
ing to  the  left  on  leaving  Schonach,  and  passing  the  (3  M.)  EUhof,  pro- 
ceed by  a  footpath  across  the  Rohrhardtsberg  and  through  the  Yachthal 
to  Elzach  (p.  351),  about  10  M.  from  Schonach. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Gutach,  and  in  the  great  'Triberger 
Kehrtunnel'  turns  direct  to  the  N.,  towards  the  top  of  the  hill. 
Several  tunnels  and  viaducts.  For  some  distance  we  observe  to  the 
left  below  us  the  portion  of  the  line  which  we  traversed  before 
reaching  Triberg.  The  train  turns  to  the  S. ,  passing  through 
tunnels  and  over  viaducts.  Beyond  (40  M.)  Nussbach  it  again  turns 
to  the  E.  Among  the  next  tunnels  is  One  1852  yds.  in  length,  which 
penetrates  the  hill  of  (43  M.)  Sommerau  (2730  ft.),  the  watershed 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  Danube.  (Many  passengers  alight  here, 
and  travel  back  direct ;  behind  the  station  is  a  restaurant.) 

45  M.  St.  Georgen  (2660  ft.;  Adlcr,  HirscK),  a  busy  watch- 
manufacturing  place,  is  prettily  situated  on  a  height  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Brigach,  a  little  above  the  station.     The  old  Benedictine 


Black  Forest  DONAUESCHINGEN.         49.  Route.     349 

abbey,  founded  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent.,  was  suppressed  in 
1806.  The  Brigach ,  which  after  a  course  ef  21  M.  unites  with 
the  Brege  at  Donaueschingen  and  forms  the  Danube  (see  below), 
rises  about  4  M.  to  the  W.  of  St.  Georgen. 

The  line  now  traverses  the  plateau,  not  far  from  the  Brigach. 
—  471/2  M.  Peterzell  (Krone),  and  Konigsfeld,  the  latter  a  Mora- 
vian settlement  with  a  school.  —  51  M.  Kirnach,  whence  a  dili- 
gence runs  twice  daily  to  Vohrenbach  and  Furtwangen  (p.  351). 

54  M.  Villingen  (*Blume  or  Post;  Lilie;  FUxsche;  beer  at  the 
Falkc),  an  ancient  manufacturing  town  (5900  inhab.),  mentioned 
as  early  as  the  9th  cent.,  is  partly  surrounded  with  walls  and  gates. 
The  Romelasthurm  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings  and  rhyming 
inscriptions.  Gothic  Munsterkirche  with  two  towers  (of  1420).  The 
Rathhaus  contains  well-preserved  rooms  in  the  mediaeval  style,  and 
a  collection  of  antiquities  (40  pf.).  The  handsome  Altstadtthurm 
by  the  cemetery,  Y2  M.  from  the  town,  is  said  to  be  of  Roman  ori- 
gin. Numerous  pleasant  walks  in  the  environs,  e.g.  to  the  Signal, 
with  view.  At  (55^2  M-)  Marbach  the  line  to  Rottweil  diverges  to 
the  left. 

62V2  M.  Donaueschingen  (2263  ft. ;  *8chutze,  R.  1  m,  70,  B. 
80  pf. ;  Brunner,  at  the  station ;  Falke  or  Post),  an  ancient  town 
with  3500  inhab.,  is  the  residence  (since  1723)  of  the  Princes  of 
Furstenberg ,  who  possess  a  celebrated  library  and  valuable  collec- 
tions. From  the  station,  near  which  is  a  salt-bath  opened  in  1871, 
we  follow  the  main  street ,  past  the.  new  building  of  the  'Domain 
Administration',  to  a  bridge ,  on  the  other  side  of  which ,  to  the 
right,  is  the  gate  of  the  princely  Park.  The  latter  is  always  open  to 
the  public,  but  the  Palace  is  not  shown.  Near  the  palace  is  a 
round,  walled-in  basin ,  with  a  spring  of  clear  water ,  which  is 
conducted  by  a  subterranean  channel  to  the  Brigach  about  100  ft. 
distant.  An  inscription  styles  this  spring  the  'Source  of  the  Danube' 
(2220  ft.  above  the  searlevel;  1780  M.froin  the  sea),  but  the  name 
Danube  is  usually  first  applied  to  the  stream  formed  by  the  union 
of  the  Brigach  and  the  Brege. 

On  an  eminence  behind  the  church  and  the  palace  stands  the 
Karlsbau,  a  building  completed  in  1868,  and  containing  the  art 
and  other  collections. 

On  the  ground-floor  is  the  Geological  Collection.  —  The  first  floor  con- 
tains, on  the  right ,  the  Mineralogical  Collection ,  ethnological  curiosities, 
and  Roman,  Franconian,  and  other  antiquities  found  in  S.W.  Germany; 
to  the  left  is  the  Zoological  Cabinet.  —  The  Art-Collections  on  the 
second  floor  consist  of  pictures  and  casts,  the  latter  chiefly  from  the  an- 
tique. The  most  important  pictures  are  those  of  the  Swabian  and  Fran- 
conian  Schools  of  the  16th  century,  which  are  collected  in  a  room 
lighted  from  above.  (Catalogue  by  Woltmanri).  Nos.  41,  42.  Wings  of 
an  altar-piece,  Salutation  and  88.  Magdalene  and  Ursula,  by  Barlh.  Zeitblom. 
43-54.  The  Passion  in  twelve  sections,  by  Holbein  the  Elder  (monogram 
on  the  picture  of  the  Resurrection)  ^  69-71,  Wings  of  an  altar-piece,  Saints, 
by  Sans  Burgkmair.  Altar-pieces  by  Barthel  Beham :  73-75.  Wings  of  an 
altar-piece,  of  which  the  central  picture  is  at  Mosskirch ;  76-80.  Madonna 


350     Route  49.  SCHONWALD.  Black  Forest. 

with  saints  and  donors :  81-85.  St.  Anna  with  other  saints ;  86.  Christ  on  the 
cross ;  87-90.  SS.  Afra,  Paul,  Anthony,  and  James,  a  fragment.  The  numer- 
ous pictures  by  this  rare  master,  some  of  which  belonged  to  Baron  v.  Lass- 
berg,  render  the  Furstenberg  collection  one  of  high  value,  especially  to 
students  of  early  German  art.  —  Among  the  modern  pictures,  which  fill 
several  rooms,  few  are  of  much  merit. 

The  Armoury ,  which  occupies  a  separate  building,  embellished 
-with  a  frieze  with  hunting-scenes,  contains  a  number  of  old  imple- 
ments of  the  chase  and  a  few  modern  arms. 

The  royal  Library  and  Archives  are  in  separate  buildings  near 
the  post-office.  The  library,  with  which  that  of  Baron  von  Lass- 
berg  was  united  in  1860,  consists  of  80,000  vols,  and  about  1000 
MSS.,  including  the  finest  MS.  of  the  Nibelungenlied  after  those 
of  Munich  and  St.  Gallen,  and  several  others  of  early  German 
origin.  The  same  building  contains  the  collections  of  Engravings 
(Durer,  Mantegna,  etc.)  and  Coins.  —  An  extensive  brewery  at 
Donaueschingen  belongs  to  the  princely  family.  —  Post-omnibus  to 
Freiburg  (p.  328)  in  8V2  hrs. ;  to  Neustadt  (p.  354),  twice  daily 
in  4  hours. 

The  railway  now  follows  the  grassy  valley  of  the  Danube.  Sta- 
tions NeUUngen,  Qeisingen,  (75  M.)  Jmmendingen  (junction  for 
Tuttlingen  and  Rottweil,  see  Baedeker's  8.  Germany),  Engen, 
(94  M.)  Singen ,  and  (113  M.)  Constance  (p.  368). 

e.  From  Triberg  to  Waldkirch  via.  Furtwangen.    Valleys  of 
Simons wald  and  Eli. 

38  M.  From  Triberg  to  (9y2  M.)  Furtwangen,  diligence  twice  daily  in 
21/*  hrs. ;  from  Furtwangen  to  (I8V2  M.)  Waldkirch,  diligence  once  daily 
in  3'/*  hrs.  (back  in  5  hrs.).    This  is  a  pleasant  route  for  pedestrians. 

Triberg  (2245  ft.),  see  p.  347.  The  road  to  Furtwangen  first 
ascends  the  'UnterthaT  to  the  W. ,  and  at  the  WaUfahrtskirche 
(2405  ft.),  about  4/2  M.  from  Triberg,  turns  to  the  left,  and  ascends 
the  hill  in  long  windings  to  the  (2^  M.)  Inn  zum  Wasserfall 
(p.  348 ;  the  carriage-road  in  the  Unterthal  leads  to  Schonach,  see 
p.  348).  Pedestrians  had  better  ascend  the  path  mentioned  on 
p.  348,  past  the  waterfall ,  by  which  they  regain  the  road  at  the 
Wasserfall  Inn,  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  in  V2  hour.  About  */2  M. 
farther  is  a  restaurant  (Zur  Linde),  beyond  which  we  reach  the 
church  and  village  of  Schonwald  (3225  ft. ;  *Adler ;  *Hirsch).  From 
almost  every  house  resound  the  tapping  of  hammers  and  the  peculiar 
grating  of  files,  indicating  the  abodes  of  watchmakers. 

Pleasant  footpath  across  the  BrQcklerain,  and  through  the  Orulxiehthal 
(pr  through  the  Nonnenbachthal),  to  (21/*  hrs.)  8imon*wald  (see  next  page). 

Near  the  last  houses  of  Schonwald  stands  a  way-post,  pointing 
on  to  (57*  M.)  Furtwangen  and  back  to  (3%  M.)  Triherg.  Pedes- 
trians take  the  old  road,  diverging  to  the  right  a  little  hefore  this 
point  is  reached,  and  joining  the  new  road  by  the  inn  Zum  Krcux 
(3500  ft.),  at  the  top  of  the  pass ,  which  forms  the  watershed  be- 


Black  Forest,  FUETWANOEN.  49.  Route.     351 

tween  the  Rhine  and  the  Danube.  The  new  road  descends  gradually 
and  circuitously.  Travellers  on  foot  may  shorten  the  distance 
considerably  by  taking  the  broad  and  precipitous  old  road,  which  di- 
verges to  the  right  a  few  paces  beyond  the  Kreuz  Inn,  and  rejoins 
the  new  road  lower  down.  —  3  M.  Furtwangen  (2800  ft. ;  *Sonne, 
Engel),  on  the  Brege,  a  prosperous  little  town  with  3400  inhab., 
where  the  best  clocks  and  watches  in  the  Black  Forest  are  manufac- 
'  tared.  The  'Gewerbehalle',  or  industrial  hall,  is  inferior  to  that  at 
Triberg,  but  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  old  Black  Forest 
clocks,  from  the  end  of  the  16th  cent,  onwards.  There  is  also  a  large 
training-school  for  wood-carvers  and  watch-maker* .  New  church. 
Pleasant  excursion  to  the  Brend,  an  eminence  iy2  nr-  *°  tne  N.W., 
commanding  a  fine  view.  —  High-road  hence  to  the  £.  by  Vbhren- 
bach  (Ochs)  to  (12  M.)  VilUngen  (see  p.  349). 

The  new  *Road  to  Simonswald  and  Waldkirch  ascends  from 
Furtwangen  to  the  S.W.,  describing  several  curves.  Pedestrians 
may  avoid  these  by  following  a  narrow  road  to  the  left  about  %  M. 
beyond  Furtwangen ,  which  rejoins  the  highway  at  the  top  of  the 
hill  (3310  ft.),  near  the  Stadt  Freiburg  inn.  The  road  again 
crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Danube  and  the  Rhine,  and 
soon  reaches  (4*/2  M.  from  Furtwangen)  Gutenbaeh  (2840  ft.; 
*Zur  Hochburg,  D.  2  m.,  also  'pension'),  another  busy,  watch- 
making place,  with  a  picturesque  church. 

About  V<  M  below  the  Hdtel  zur  Hochburg  is  a  finger-post,  point- 
ing down  the  valley,  towards  the  left,  to  Wildgutach.  The  path,  which 
skirts  the  hillside  above  the  stream ,  is  stony ,  but  the  valley  is  very 
picturesque.    Wildgutach  is  reached  in  40  minutes. 

The  road,  which  is  partly  hewn  in  the  solid  rock,  continues 
towards  the  W.  Below,  on  the  left,  the  Wilde  Gutach  flows  through 
a  deep  ravine.  The  road  then  turns  to  the  N.  and  descends  in 
long  windings,  affording  numerous  beautiful  views ;  the  finest  is 
that  of  the  *Fall  of  the  Zweribach,  issuing  from  the  Hohe  Kandel, 
beyond  the  Gutaehthal.  About  5  M.  from  Gutach  is  the  inn  *Zum 
Engel,  at  the  junction  of  the  road  with  the  old  Kilpenstrasse,  which 
also  comes  from  Furtwangen  and  will  repay  walkers. 

As  we  descend  the  picturesque  ^Simonswald  Valley  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  road  increase.  The  costume  of  the  inhabitants  is 
peculiar.  The  villages  of  Ober-  and  Unter-Simonswald  consist  of 
numerous  scattered  houses.  On  the  right,  by  the  church  of  Ober- 
Simonswald,  1  M.  from  the  Engel  inn,  is  a  finger-post,  indicat- 
ing the  way  through  the  Grisbachthal  to  Schonwald  and  Triberg 
(p.  350).  About  3  M.  farther  on  lies  the  inn  Zur  Krone  (1160  ft.), 
near  the  prettily-situated  church  of  Unter-Simonswald.  The  hill 
to  the  right  is  the  Eornleberg  (2970  ft.).  Near  (4  M.)  BUybach 
(1000  ft. ;  Lowe),  a  village  on  the  right ,  the  valley  opens  into  the 
broad  and  smiling  Bltthal,  in  which,  6  M.  higher  up,  lies  the  old 
town  of  Elsach  (Post).  A  new  road  leads  from  the  latter  by  Hofstetten 
to  Haslach  in  the  Kinzigthal  and  another  to  Horhberg  (comp.  pp. 


352    Route  49.  WALDKIRCH.  Black  Forest. 

346-347).  —  The  road^  to  Waldkirch  descends  the  Elzthal,  at  first 
following  the  right  bank  of  the  brook,  which  is  crossed  at  Bleybach. 
The  villages  of  Outach,  Kollnau,  where  the  Elz  is  again  crossed, 
and  (3^2  M.)  Waldkirch  are  almost  contiguous. 

Waldkirch  (902  ft. ;  •Loire  or  Post,  B.  1  m.  20  pf. ;  Rebstock, 
R.  1  m. ;  *St.  Margarethen,  also  a  'pension',  pleasantly  situated),  a 
busy  and  prettily-situated  little  town  of  3500  inhab. ,  with  glass 
and  stone-polishing  works ,  is  connected  with  the  Baden  Railway 
by  a  branch-line.  The  station  lies  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  N. 
of  the  town,  at  the  foot  of  the  Schlossberg  (1185  ft.),  which  is 
crowned  with  the  ruin  of  Kastelburg,  and  may  be  ascended  in  20 
minutes.  The  visitor  may  also  ascend (S.)  the  HoheKandel  (4078  ft. ; 
extensive  view)  in  2Y2-3  hours.  Diligence  to  (8^2  M.J  Elzach, 
twice  dailv 

Railway  (4i/2  M. ;  fares  80,  60,  40  pf.)  in  15  min.  from  Wald- 
kirch via  Buchholz  (near  the  pleasant  little  baths  of  8uggenthal, 
♦Pension  41/2-5  m.)  to  DenzUngen  (p.  328). 

f .  From  Freiburg  to  St.  Blasien.   Hdllenthal.  Feldberg. 

Comp.  Map>  p.  356. 

Five  Days  (including  the  following  Route  g.).  1st.  From  Freiburg  to 
the  post-station  of  Falkensteig  (9  M.),  a  drive  of  lVshr.,  walk  through  the 
fflllenthal  to  (7»/a  M.)  Hinterzarten  (p.  354),  ascend  the  Feldberg  in  3»/j  hrs. 
—  2nd.  Descend  to  Todtnau  (p.  357)  2  hrs.,  through  the  Wiesenthal  to 
(12  M.)  Zell  (p.  357) ,  railway  to  Schopfheim.  —  3rd.  Railway  to  Lbrrach 
(p.  353;  Schlcss  Bdtteln  or  TillUnger  ift'Ai),  return  to  Schopfheim,  thence  in 
the  evening  to  (4»/s  M.)  Wehr  (p.  359).  —  4th.  Through  the  Wehrathal  to 
(12  M.)  Todtmoos  (p.  359),  thence  to  St.  Blasien  (p.  360)  in  3  hrs.  —  5th. 
To  Hbchenschwand  (p.  360)  in  l1/*  fir.,  NiedermUhle  2*/4  hrs.,  thence  by  the 
Albstrasse  to  (10  M.)  Albbruck  (p.  361).  (An  interesting  addition  to  this 
tour  may  be  made  by  visiting  the  picturesque  little  Rhenish  towns  of 
Laufenburg  and  Sdckingen,  see  R.  50.) 

Diligences.  From  Freiburg  to  Altenweg  and  Keustadt  (p.  354),  thrice 
daily;  between  Altenweg  and  Schluchsee,  once  daily;  Xeustadt,  Lenz- 
kirch,  Schluchsee,  and  St.  Blasien  (p.  360),  once  daily;  Neustadt  and 
Donaueschingen,  twice  daily. 

Tariff  fob  Cabbiages  (with  two  horses)  at  Freiburg.  Through  the 
Hdllenthal  to  the  Hirschsprung  10  m.,  to  the  Stern  Inn  15,  to  the  Titisee 
20,  to  Neustadt  25,  to  Donaueschingen  40m.;  Hdllenthal,  Titisee,  and 
Schluchsee,  32  m. ;  the  same,  and  on  to  St.  Blasien,  including  Hochen- 
schwand,  42  m. ;  Hollenthal,  Barenthal,  Feldberg,  Menzenschwand,  St.  Bla- 
sien, and  Albbruck,  75  m. 

Freiburg,  see  p.  328. 

The  broad  valley  of  the  Dreisam,  ascending  into  the  mountains 
from  Freiburg,  is  not  at  first  sufficiently  attractive  for  the  pedes- 
trian. Freiburg  is  quitted  by  the  Schwabenthor.  —  3  M.  Ebnct, 
with  an  old  chateau,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Dreisam.  3  M.  Zar- 
ten,  with  traces  of  the  Roman  castle  Tarundunum. 

A  road  here  diverges  to  the  right  to  Todtnau  (p.  367).  From  (*/<  M.) 
Kirchzarten  (Krone)  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Dreisam  derives  its 
appellation.  At  (3  M.)  Oberried  (Hirsch;  Adler),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Zastlerthal  (p.  353),  a  wood  is  entered;  3  M.  farther  the  St.  Wilhelmsthal 
(p.  366)  diverges  to  the  left.    lAm  Nothschref  (4  M.)  is  the  culminating 


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Black  Forest.  HOLLENTHAL.  49.  Route.     353 

point  (3306  ft.)  of  the  route  (whence  the  Eeldberg  can  be  ascended  in 
2 J/2  hrs.)i  here  the  road  quits  the  wood  and  descends  through  the  upper 
Wiesenthal  by  Muggenbrunn  (Griiner  Baum;  iU  hr.  farther,  finger-post  on 
the  left  indicating  the  way  to  Todtnauberg,  p.  357)  and  Afterstep  to  (5V4  M.) 
Todtnau  (p.  367). 

From  (lJ/2  M.)  Burg  (Zur  Brandenburg)  a  good  road  diverges  to 
the  left  to  St.  Margen. 

The  road  Jeads  via  (1  M.)  Buchenbach  (on  the  left  the  ruined  castle  of 
Wisneck),  and  ascends  the  Wageruttigthal  to  (5  M.)  the  loftily  -  situated 
village  of  3t.  Margen  (2919  ft.;  Birsch;  Krone ,  'pension*  4  m .).  The  ascent 
of  the  Thurner  (3320  ft. ;  Inn)  is  a  pleasant  walk.  Picturesque  route 
hence  through  the  Wildgutpchthal  (p.  351)  to  (7»/2  M.)  Gilienbach  (p.  351). 
St.  Margen  and  WaMau  (3156  ft.;  *Traube),  0  M.  to  the  E.,  are  favourite 
summer-quarters  on  aceount  of  their  attractive,  and  healthful  situation. 

The  road  now  enters  a  more  mouritainous  region,  the  first  part 
of  which  is  called  ttie  Himmelreich  ('kingdom  of  heaven'),  from  the 
contrast  it  presents  to  the  wild  ravine  of  the  IZStte.Cheir)  beyond. 
At  the  entrance  to  the  latter  the  ruin  of  FaUcenstein  stands  on  the 
hill  to  the  left;  on  the  right' are  small  iron- works.  —  10  M.  (from 
Freiburg)  FaJtkensteig  (Zwei  Tauhen,  well  spoken  of),  a  diligence- 
station.   Beyond  this  point  walking  is  recommended. 

The  *H611enpass  proper,  a  grand  defile  with  towering  and  over- 
hanging rocks,  is  about  3/jM.  in  length.  The  wildest  and  most  beau- 
tiful point  is  at  the  ^Hirschsprung.,  an  imposing  and  precipitous  rock, 
partially  overgrown  with  firs  and  underwood.  The  road  winding 
through  the  defile-was  constructed  by  the  Austrian  government  in 
1770,  and  was  shortly  afterwards  traversed  by  the  Archduchess 
Marie  Antoinette,  affianced  to  the  Dauphin,  afterwards  Louis  XVI., 
when  on  her  way  to  France.  The  pass  also  witnessed  the  celebrated 
retreat  of  Moreau,  Oct.  1796,  when  pursued  by  the  Archduke 
Charles. 

The  Hollenthal  now  expands.  On  the  roadside,  4  M.  from  Fal- 
kensteig, lies  the  rustic  inn  *Zum  Adler.  We  then  pass  the  Chapel 
of  Si.  Oswald,  and  reach  (1  M.)  the  — 

14  M.  *Stern  Inn  (2354  ft. ;  'pens.'  6  in.),  a  diligence-station, 
with  baths,  and  several  dependencies.  It  is  about  7M.  from  Burg, 
and  not  quite  6  M.  from  the  Titisee.  —  Thence  to  the  summit  of 
the  Feldbergj  see  p.  355. 

Opposite  the  inn,  to  the  N.,  opens  the  Ravennathal,  a  wild  ravine  with 
a  fine  cascade,  traversed  by  a  good  path.  By  this  path  the  windings  of 
the  road  may  be  cut  off ,  and*  the  road  rejoined  (15-20  min.)  at  one  of 
its  finest  points,  which  the  diligence  from  the  'Stern1  takes  fully  V*  hr. 
to  reach.  [A  pleasant  route  from  the  'Stern1  to  Oberhollsteig  (see  below) 
is  as  follows :  keep  to  the  high-road  for  V2  M.  \  beyond  the  bridge,  where 
it  makes  a  sharp  -  curve  to  the  left ,  take  '  the  road  to  the  right ,  which 
ascends  the  picturesque  Ldffelthal  to  (IV2  M.)  the  first  houses  of  Hinter- 
zarten;  then  to  the  left  to  (V<  M.)  Oberhollsteig.] 

From  the  inn  the  road  ascends  the  Hollensteig  in  bold  windings, 
affording  many  beautiful  retrospects.  It  reaches  the  top  of  the  hill 
at  (3l/2  M.)  Oberhollsteig ,  a  little  beyond  which  is  the  rustic  inn 
♦Weisses  Rossle  (2884  ft. ;  ^pens.'  372-4  m.).  A  road  branches  off 
to  the  right  here  to  the  Barenthal,  Feldberg,  and  Altglashutte  5  on 

Baedeker's  Rhine.    8th  Edit.  23 


354    Route  49.  SCHLUCHSEE.  Black  Forest. 

this  road,  about  1 M.  from  the  Weisses  Rossle,  is  the  village  of  Hin- 
tenarien,  a  favourite  summer-resort  (2938  ft. ;  *Adler ,  *Schuler's 
Pension,  unpretending,  4m.  per  day;  rustic  lodgings). 

From  the  Weisses  Rossle  a  walk  of  ll/2  M.  along  the  high-road 
brings  us  to  — 

18  M.  AUenweg  (Bar) ,  a  post-station ,  beyond  which  the  road 
divides,  that  to  the  left  leading  to  (4i/2  M.)  Neustadt,  (12  M.)  Lof- 
flngen,  (20M.)Hufingen,  and  (23V2M.)  Donaueschingen  (p.  349). 

The  road  to  the  right  next  leads  to  the  (3/4  M.)  Titi-See  (2784  ft. ; 
*Eignct?8  Jnn,  'pension'  4-5  m.) ,  a  l&ke  abounding  in  fish,  and  fed 
by  the  Seebach  (p.  355).  Route  to  the  Feldberg,  see  p.  355.  — 
About  l1/*  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Titisee,  on  the  old  road  to  Lenz- 
kirch ,  now  disused  on  account  of  its  steepness,  lies  Saig  (*  Ochs, 
with  'pension*).  A  little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Titisee  is  Erlenbrugg 
(Schwan). 

The  new  road  to  Lenzkirch,  Schluchsee  (one-horse  carr.  5-6m.), 
and  St.  Blasien  crosses  the  Outach,  the  outlet  of  the  Titi-See,  and, 
leaving  the  steep  old  road  to  Lenzkirch  (see  above)  to  the  left, 
skirts  the  S.  bank  of  the  lake ,  and  ascends  the  pine-clad  hill  in 
windings,  commanding  beautiful  retrospective  views.  At  the  Bothen- 
kreut,  on  the  top  of  the  hill ,  the  high-road  to  (6Y2  M.  from  Alten- 
weg)  Lenxkirch  diverges  to  the  left  (uniting  with  the  old  road  at 
Muhlingen,  farther  on).  Lenzkirch,  a  village  with  1800  inhab., 
busied  in  straw-plaiting  and  watch-making,  consists  of  two  por- 
tions, Oberlenzkirch  (2656  ft. ;  Post,  Wilder  Mann)  and  UnttrUnz- 
kirch.  In  Oberlenzkirch  the  road  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to 
Bonndorf  and  Schaffhausen,  the  right  to  (5l/2  M.)  Schluchsee. 

The  direct  Schluchsee  road  leads  from  the  Rothenkreuz  by  Falkau 
to  (6  M.)  AltglaahutU  (Lowe) ,  loftily  situated  (3228  ft.)  on  the  E. 
slope  of  the  BSrhalde.  It  then  descends,  and  at  (3  M.)  Unter-Aha 
(Sonne)  turns  to  the  E.  to  the  (3  M.)  Schluchsee,  the  N.  bank  of 
which  it  skirts.  The  diligence  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  new 
road  on  the  bank,  and  ascends  to  the  village  of  — 

221/2  M.  Schluchsee  (2958  ft. ;  ♦Stern;  Setoff),  i/a  M.  from  the 
lake,  prettily  and  healthily  situated  in  the  midst  of  pine-forest,  and 
much  frequented  as  a  summer-resort.  The  lake  ,  2  M.  long ,  and 
3/4  M.  broad ,  is  well  stocked  with  flsh  (boats  for  hire).  On  the 
bank  is  a  bath-establishment,  with  warm  baths. 

The  *FaulenfiraU  to  which  a  shady  forest-path  leads  from  the  Schluch- 
see in  8/4  hr.,  commands  a  good  survey  of  the  Alps  (comp.-p.  360).  The 
excursion  may  also  be  extended  as  follows :  descend  by  the  E.  side  of  the 
Faulenfirst  to  (ty4  hr.)  Rothhaut ,  a  brewery  founded  by  the  abbots  of  St. 
Blasien,  now  crown-property  (Inn  opposite,  with  view  of  the  Alps).  Roth- 
haus  lies  on  the  road  from  Seebrugg  (see  below)  to  Bonndorf.  We  fol- 
low this  road  for  I72  M.  in  the  direction  of  Bonndorf,  and  then  diverge  to 
the  right  by  a  new  road,  leading  into  the  wooded  Erlenbachthal,  which, 
after  about  4  H. ,  unites  with  the  Steinachthal ,  a  little  above  the  three 
ruined  4  Roggenbacher  Schldsser\  We  then  ascend  the  Steinachthal  to 
the  SteinachmUhle  ('pension'  4-6  m.),  and  return  by  the  road  to  (4  M.)  Roth- 
haus  and  (5  M.)  Schluchsee. 


Black  Forest.  FELDBERG.  49.  Route.     355 

From  the  village  of  Schluchsee  the  road  descends  to  the  lake 
(where  there  is  a  finger-post ,  pointing  to  Schluchsee  and  Lenz- 
kirch),  and  skirts  its  bank.  Beyond  (li/2  M.)  Seebrugg ,  consisting 
of  a  few  scattered  houses  with  an  inn ,  it  crosses  the  Schwarzach, 
the  brook  by  which  the  lake  is  drained.  About  3/4  M.  farther  a 
finger-post  indicates  a  path  to  the  right,  leading  by  Blasiwald 
(3940  ft.)  to  St.  Blasien  (6  M. ;  V/2  M.  shorter  than  by  the  road). 
The  high-road  now  enters  the  Schwarzhalde ,  a  deep  and  romantic 
valley,  which  it  follows  nearly  to  f4y2  M.)  Hdusern  (p.  360).  A 
little  beyond  the  village  it  divides  (comp.  p.  360)  the  branch  to  the 
left  leading  to  (l*/2  M.)  Hbchenschwand  (p.  360),  that  on  the  right 
to  (2i/4  M.)- 

31  M.  St.  Blasien  (p.  360). 


The  Fbldberg  may  be  ascended  from  the  Hollenthal,  direct 
from  the  Stern  Inn  (p.  353),  but  it  is  preferable  to  follow  the  high- 
road to  Hinterzarten  or  to  the  Titi-See,  and  begin  the  ascent  thence. 

From  the  Stkbn  Inn  (3l/2  hrs. ;  guide,  4  m.,  not  absolutely  necessary). 
The  path  turns  to  the  right  immediately  above  the  inn,  crosses  the  brook, 
ascends  through  the  wood,  and  traverses  green  meadows,  passing  (25  min.) 
the  five  farms  which  form  the  parish  of  Albersbach.  After  25  min.  more 
it  passes  the  Gaschpels  Hof\  \.xj\  hr.  the  hamlet  Auf  dem  Rmken  \  25  min. 
Baldenweger  Viehhutte ;  20  min.  the  saddle  of  the  hill,  where  we  turn  to 
the  left;  35  min.  Feldberg  Inn.  We  then  turn  to  the  right  and  reach  the 
top  in  V4  hour. 

Feom  Hintxbzasten  and  fbok  the  Titi-See  (81/*  hrs.).  —  The  road 
mentioned  at  p.  364  leads  from  Hinterzarten  by  Erlenbrugg  (Sell  wan,  un- 
pretending, 'pens/  4  m.),  a  small  group  of  houses,  into  the  Barenthal,  which 
it  ascends  between  the  scattered  houses  named  after  the  valley  to  the 
(4V2  M.)  Adler  Inn  (good  wine).  Pedestrians  starting  from  the  Titi-See 
Inn  (p.  354)  may  take  the  following  route:  by  boat  (1-2  pers.  40,  each 
additional  pers.  30  pf. ;  boat  not  always  to  be  had)  in  35  min.  to  the  upper 
(W.)  end  of  the  lake,  a  considerable  saving.  Here  mount  a  few  hundred 
paces  to  the  road  on  the  N.W.  bank  of  the  lake,  traverse  the  Brtiderhalde, 
and  ascend  the  valley ;  at  a  (3/«  hr.)  saw-mill  cross  the  Seebach  (the  dis- 
charge of  the  Feldbergsee) ;  then  through  the  wood ,  passing  between  the 
houses  of  Barenthal ,  to  the  O/2  hr.)  Adler  (see  above).  Beyond  the  inn 
the  road  continues  to  ascend,  commanding  for  some  distance  a  fine 
survey  of  the  Barenthal  and  the  Titi-See,  and  then  enters  beautiful  pine- 
forest  (the  property  of  Prince  Fiirstenberg)  with  very  picturesque  rock- 
scenery.  About  3  M.  above  the  Adler  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  to  the 
*Feldbergsee  (3644  ft. ;  whence  a  steep  zigzag  footpath  ascends  to  the  Feld- 
berg Inn  in  3/4  hr.).  The  road  soon  quits  the  wood;  1  M.  Menzen- 
schwander  Hiitte ;  V*  M.  Feldberg  Inn  (see  above). . 

The  *Feldberg  (4901  ft. ;  1004  ft.  lower  than  the  Rigi-Kulm) 
is  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Black  Forest,  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Bavarian  Alps  and  the  Schneekoppe  in  the  Riesen- 
gebirge  (5138  ft.),  also  the  highest  in  Germany.  It  commands  a 
magnificent  and  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  mountains  and 
valleys,  the  Swabian  Mts.,  Rhine  Valley,  and  Alps.  Keys  of  the 
Ffiedfich-Louisen  Thurm  on  the  top  are  kept  at  the  Inn,  and  at  the 
Todtnauer,  the  St.  Wilhelmer,  and  the  Menzenschwander  Hiitte, 
but  not  at  the  Baldenweger  Hiitte,  an  omission  which  causes  great 
inconvenience  to  travellers  ascending  direct  from  the  Hollenthal. 

23* 


356     Route  40.  FELDBERO.  Black  Forest. 

Retracing  our  steps  from  the  tower  towards  the  £. ,  we  reach 
the  (V2  b*0  Beebuck  (4757  ft.) ,  a  spot  furnished  with  benches, 
commanding  a  less  extensive,  but  more  picturesque  *View  than  the 
summit.  Far  below,  enclosed  by  precipitous  pine-clad  mountains, 
and  fed  by  waterfalls,  lies  the  gloomy  little  Feldbergsee  (see  below) ; 
beyond  it  the  Barenthal  with  its  numerous  chalets,  watered  by 
the  Setback ;  in  the  background  the  W.  part  of  the  Titi-Sec.  About 
V4  hr.  below  the  Seebuck  is  situated  the  inn  *  Zum  Feldberger 
Hof  (4182  ft. ;  R.  2,  'pens.'  5i/2-6  m.).  The  Todtnauer  Hiitte 
(4331  ft. ;  refreshments  and  beds)  on  the  S.  side,  V2  br.  only  from 
the  tower ,  also  affords  a  line  view ,  especially  of  the  Wiesenthal 
(see  below). 

Ascent  of  thk  Fkldbbbg  fbom  Obbbbikd  (p.  852)  through  the 
St.  Wilhblmbthal  (5  hrs.).  We  follow  the  Todtnau  road  for  3  M.  to  a 
finger-post,  indicating  the  way  to  the  left  to  the  picturesque,  wooded,  and 
rocky  Bt.  Wilhelmtthal.  The  broad  track  crosses  the  brook  four  times  ; 
beyond  the  last  bridge  (2  hra.)  is  a  way-post,  where  the  footpath  to  the  left 
is  to  be  followed  ;  12  min. ,  ascend  to  the  left,  at  first  gradually,  afterwards  in 
rapid  zigzags;  *U  hr.,  the  wood  is  quitted  (way-post);  again  ascend  to  the 
left  to  the  (36  min.)  St.  WUhelmer  HUtte  (refreshments,  key  of  the  Feldberg 
tower),  from  which  the  summit  is  attained  in  20  min.  more. 

From  Oberried  through  the  Zastlerthal  (33/4  hrs.).  The  high-road 
is  quitted  at  Oberried,  and  the  Zastlerthal,  a  narrower  and  wilder  valley 
than  the  St.  Wilhelmsthal ,  is  ascended.  In  2»/<  hrs.  we  reach  Auf 
dem  Rinken,  and  in  1  hr.  more  the  summit,  by  the  route  first  described 
(p.  306). 

Fbom  Todtnau  (see  below ;  372  hrs.),  new  path  constructed  by  the  Black 
Forest  Club.  We  ascend  the  Brandenberger  Thai,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Wiese.  At  the  first  house  of  (IV2  hr.)  Fa  hi  (see  p.  367)  we  cross  the 
bridge,  and  30  paces  farther  we  ascend  to  the  right  by  the  way-post 
through  beautiful  wood.  We  may  then  either  proceed  by  the  (l1/*  hr.) 
Todtnauer  Hiitte,  mentioned  above,  to  the  (V*  hr.)  tower,  or  follow  the 
left  bank  of  the  Wiese  direct  to  the  (l3/«  hr.)  Feldberg  Inn.  —  The 
ascent  from  Todtnauberg  (p.  367;  guide  desirable)  occupies  8  hrs. ;  the 
route  unites  at  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte  with  that  above  described.  —  From 
the  Nothtchrei  to  the  top  of  Feldberg  in  21/*  hrs.,  see  p.  362. 

From  Menzknschwand  (p.  360;  2  hrs.).  This  route  is  also  easily  found. 
It  ascends  by  the  Alb,  crossing  it  several  times,  and  finally  leading  along 
the  left  bank. 

From  St.  Blasien  (p.  360;  372  hrs.).  About  1 M.  above  St.  Blasien  a  road 
diverges  to  the  right  from  the  high-road,  ascends  the  A  lb  thai,  and,  mounting 
the  BOtzberg,  leads  to  Muchenland  (3786  ft.)  in  I74  hour.  It  then  runs  along 
the  hill  through  the  woods,  passing  a  clearing  (with  a  bench),  where  an 
imposing  view  is  obtained  of  the  Schluchsee  far  below.  The  road  then 
gradually  descends  to  Aeule  (3379  ft. ;  Rossle).  A  path,  which  cuts  off  the 
long  windings  of  the  road,  ascends  close  to  the  Rossle,  and  in  74  hr. 
reaches  the  top  of  the  pass  between  the  valley  of  Aeule  and  that  of  Men- 
zenschwand.  After  regaining  the  road  we  reach  a  finger-post  ('Waldweg'), 
where  we  take  a  road  to  the  right,  which  soon  contracts  into  a  footpath 
(views  of  the  profound  Albthal) ,  and  at  length  joins  the  road  leading 
through  the  Barenthal  to  the  Feldberg.  From  the  top  of  the  pass  above 
Aeule  to  the  Feldberg  Inn.  l3/4  hour. 

From  Schluchsee  (p.  364).  The  new  road  by  Unter  and  Ober-Aha  and 
Altglashiltte  unites  in  the  Barenthal  with  the  road  from  Hinterz'arten, 
described  at  p.  366.  Walkers  may  quit  the  road  at  Unter-Aha  (p.  361 ; 
3  M.  from  Schluchsee)  and  follow  the  path  indicated  by  a  finger-post  to 
the  left. 


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Black  Forest.  TODTNAU.  49.  Route.     357 

g.  Wiesenthal,  Wehrathal,  Albthal.   Schluchtthal. 

Camp,  the  Map. 

Plan  of  Tottr,  see  p.  852.  —  Diligence  between  Todtnaa  and  Zell 
(121/*  *•)>  twice  daily;  Brennet,  Wehr,  and  8chopfheim  (9«/f  M.)»  twice 
daily;  AJbbruck  and  St.  Blasien  (16  M.),  twice  daily;  Waldahnt  and  St. 
Blasien  (15  M.),  once  daily;  St.  Blasien  and  Bernau  (6  M.;  p.  380),  once 
daily.    Comp.  p.  862. 

The  valleys  of  the  Wiese,  the  Wehra,  and  the  Alb ,  are  three  of 
the  finest  in  the  Black  Forest.  The  two  latter  at  some  points  are 
worthy  of  comparison  with  the  wildest  Alpine  ravines ,  while  the 
beauties  of  the  Wiesenthal  are  of  a  softer  character. 

*Wiesenthal.  The  source  of  the  Wiese  is  on  the  S.  slope  of  the 
Seebuck,  not  far  from  the  Feldberger  Hof.  Starting  thence,  our 
route  follows  its  left  bank  ,  and  passes  Fahl  (2840  ft. ;  Adler),  a 
hamlet  near  which  the  Rothwiese  (rising  near  the  Todtnauer  Hutte) 
forms  a  picturesque  waterfall,  and  where  the  above-mentioned  route 
to  the  Feldberg  diverges.  The  pleasant  Brandtnberger  Thai,  en- 
livened with  a  few  solitary  habitations,  is  next  traversed  to  Todthau 
(3  hrs.  from  the  Feldberghaus,  2^2  brs.  from  the  Todtnauer  Hiitte). 

Todtnau  (2129  ft. ;  *Ochs;  Rossle;  one-horse  carr.  to  Schonau 
31/4  m.,  Zell  61/2-7  m.,  Todtnauberg  10-12  m.)  is  a  thriving  little 
town  in  a  picturesque  situation,  almost  entirely  rebuilt  since  a 
destructive  Are  in  1876.  The  road  mentioned  at  p.  352  leads 
hence  to  the  N.  to  Oberried  and  Freiburg.  On  this  road  is  the 
(l^M.)  Todtnau  Waterfall,  formed  by  the  Bergerbach  descending 
from  Todtnauberg  in  several  leaps,  altogether  300  ft.  in  height.  A 
new  road  ascends  by  the  waterfall  to  Todtnauberg  (Stern ;  Engel ; 
route  to  the  top  of  the  Feldberg,  see  p.  356),  from  which  we 
may  return  to  Todtnau  by  Aftersteg  (p.  353 ;  a  circuit  of  9  M.). 

The  road  leads  from  Todtnau  down  the  left  bank  of  the  Wiese. 
An  open  carriage  is  recommended  for  this  part  of  the  route  (dili- 
gence, see  above).  IV2M.  Schlechtnau;  3/4M.  Osehwdnd  (Rossle), 
where  a  road  to  the  left  leads  by  Prag  to  St.  Blasien  (p.  360),  or 
to  Todtmoos  (p.  359).  The  road  here  crosses  the  Pragbach,  and 
then  the  Wiese  near  (1 1/2  M.)  ZJtzcnfeld  (Eiche),  where  the  Munster- 
thal  road  (p.  365)  descends  from  theWiedenereck.  Passing  through 
Schonenbuchen,  we  next  reach  (1 Y2M.)  Bchdnan  (1778  ft. ;  *Sonne ; 
Lowe'),  a  busy  little  town,  prettily  situated.  Ascent  of  the  Belchen, 
see  p.  365. 

Beyond  Schonau  the  road  winds  through  picturesque  rocky  ra- 
vines. From  (%  M.)  Weinbach  (Zum  Engel) ,  with  its  extensive 
cotton  -  factory ,  a  carriage-road  leads  W.  through  the  Bollenthal, 
by  Oberbollen,  Neuenweg,  and  Oberheubronn  (p.  364),  to  Ober- 
weiler  and  Mullheim.  From  (4!/2  M.)  Mambaeh  a  picturesque  route 
leads  to  the  E.  through  the  Angenbach-Thal  by  Rohmatt  and  Hap- 
pach  to  Todtmoos  (p.  359).  Our  road  next  reaches  (1  M.)  Atsenbach 
(Adler)  and  (1 1/2  M.)  — 

Zell  (1460  ft.;  Lowe;  Krone)  'im  Wiesenthal',  a  prosperous 


358     Route  49.  SCHOPFHEIM.  Black  Forest. 

manufacturing  place.  The  *ZeUer  Blauen  (3519  ft.),  towards  the 
N.,  ascended  in  Wfa  nr->  commands  a  magnificent  distant  view.  — 
Zell  is  the  starting-point  of  the  railway  which  descends  the  Wiesen- 
thal  to  Bile. 

From  Zbll  to  Balb,  18  M.,  railway  in  l1^  hr.  (fares  2  m.  70, 
1  m.  95,  1  m.  35  pf.).  —  2  M.  Hansen  (Zur  Linde),  on  the  right 
hank  of  the  stream,  where  Hehel  (b.  at  Bile  1760,  d.  1826),  the 
poet  of  the  Black  Forest,  spent  his  early  years.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  are  Roman  Catholics ,  those 
below  Hausen  Protestants.  A  Statue  of  Hebel  was  erected  in  front 
of  the  church  in  1860.  Opposite  to  it,  to  the  right,  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  village ,  is  the  house  of  the  poet's  parents,  indicated  by  an 
inscription.  —  3V4  M.  Fahrnau. 

41/4  M.  Schopfheim  (1230  ft. ;  *Pflug,  R.  1V2  m. ;  *Drei  Ko- 
nige)  is  a  small  town  of  some  importance  (2700  inhab.),  with  con- 
siderable manufactories  of  cotton,  paper,  and  earthenware.  The 
Hebelshohe,  with  a  temple  and  bronze  bust  of  the  poet  Hebel,  is  a 
pleasant  spot  with  grounds,  V2  M-  i*rom  *ne  railway-station. 

The  Eichemer  See,  2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Schopfheim,  is  a  hollow  which 
is  periodically  filled  with  water ;  it  is  often  dry  for  years  together,  and  is 
then  cultivated  like  the  surrounding  country. 

High-road  from  Schopfheim  to  (4y2  M.)  Wehr  in  the  Wehrathal  (p.  309) ; 
diligence  by  Wehr  to  OV2  M.)  Brennet  (p.  369)  twice  daily  in  l*/«  hour. 

The  valley  continues  to  widen.  The  stream  is  employed  in  the 
irrigation  of  the  land  and  for  the  supply  of  numerous  mills  and 
factories.  6  M.  Maulburg;  8M.  Steinen.  To  the  right  near  (11  M.) 
Haagen,  on  a  wooded  eminence,  rises  the  extensive  *8chloss  Rot- 
teln,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Duchy,  commanding  a  fine  view,  once 
the  residence  of  the  Margraves  of  Hochberg ,  afterwards  that  of  the 
Margraves  of  Baden.  It  was  taken  by  Bernhard  of  Weimar  in  1638, 
dismantled  and  blown  up  by  the  French  in  1678,  and  finally 
restored  in  1867.  *Inn  at  RdttUrweiUr ,  at  the  foot  of  the  castle, 
1^2  M.  from  Lorrach. 

13  M.  Lorrach  (971  ft. ;  *Hirschy  or  Post),  the  most  important 
place  in  the  valley,  contains  extensive  shawl,  cloth,  and  other 
factories.  —  Post-omnibus  to  (10  M.)  Kandern,  once  daily  (see 
p.  364). 

Beyond  (14  M.)  Stetten  the  line  enters  the  Swiss  canton  of  Bale. 
From  (15  M.)  Riehen  we  may  ascend  in  */2  nr-  *°  tne  hamlet  of 
Obertiiliingen  (Inn  zur  Schonen  Aussicht),  situated  on  a  hill  which 
commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  Baden  Oberland  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Alsace  and  Switzerland.  On  a  wooded  hill  to  the  left  is  the 
church  of  St.  Chrischona,  formerly  a  resort  of  pilgrims,  now  a  Pro- 
testant missionary  institution. 

18  M.  Bale,  see  p.  335. 


"Wehrathal.    The  traveller  who  desires  to  descend  from  the 
Feldberg  to  the  Rhine  by  the  Wehrathal  should  proceed  to  Qschwdnd 


Black  Forest.  WEHRATHAL.  49.  Route.     359 

(j>.  357),  ascend  the  course  of  the  Pragbach  towards  the  £.  by  the 
road  leading  through  the  Bernau  to  St.  Blasien  (comp.  p.  360), 
and  before  (3  M.)  Prag  (Hirsch)  is  reached  diverge  by  a  steep  and 
stony  road  to  the  right  to  Todtmoos.  Herreruchujand ,  situated  on  a 
wooded  height ,  remains  on  the  right ;  then  descend,  the  latter  half 
of  the  way  by  a  better  road,  to  (6  M.)  Vorder-Todtmoos  (2693  ft. ; 
Adler,  R.  1  m.  50,  L.  and  A.  80  pt  ;  Lowe),  a  village  in  the  Weh- 
rathal,  with  a  loftily-situated  church,  much  resorted  to  by  pilgrims 
from  the  S.  portion  of  the  Black  Forest  and  from  Switzerland. 
A  variety  of  curious  costumes  may  be  observed  here  on  Sun- 
days and  festivals.  The  Wehra  rises  on  the  Hochkopf,  3  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Todtmoos ,  and  is  rapidly  filled  by  numerous  affluents. 
The  picturesque  new  road  leads  from  Todtmoos  to  the  W.  to  Mam- 
bach  in  the  Wiesenthal  (p.  357);  another  to  the  S.  goes  to  Herrisch- 
ried,  etc.  (see  p.  366). 

To  St.  Blasien  (IOV2  M.)-  The  road  ascends  in  windings  to  the  E., 
affording  fine  retrospective  views  \  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  Alps  is  en- 
joyed before  the  culminating  point  is  attained.  The  descent  is  by  Muttert- 
lehen  (Hirsch),  and  through  the  SUinachthal.    8t  Blasien,  see  below. 

The  next  village  in  the  Wehrathal  is  (3  M.)Todtmooa-i4u (Inn), 
commonly  called  the  Au,  whence  the  Wehra-Strasse,  an  ingeniously 
contrived  carriage-road  constructed  chiefly  for  the  transport  of  tim- 
ber in  1848,  descends  to  (9  M.)  Wehr.  It  was  almost  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  an  inundation  in  1850,  but  has  been  restored.  This 
portion  of  the  **Wehra-Thal  is  a  magnificent  rocky  ravine,  the 
most  striking  of  all  the  valleys  in  the  Black  Forest,  and  hardly  sur- 
passed in.picturesqueness  and  variety  by  the  most  famous  in  Switzer- 
land. The  bold  pine-crowned  cliffs  enclosing  the  valley  are  clothed 
with  luxuriant  vegetation,  broken  here  and  there  by  imposing 
masses  of  barren  rock.  At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  the  rivulet  dashes 
impetuously  over  the  blocks  of  granite  which  obstruct  its  narrow 
channel,  frequently  leaving  but  little  space  for  the  road.  The  most 
striking  point  is  about  half-way,  at  a  bridge  which  carries  the  road 
to  the  left  bank  of  the  Wehra.  On  a  precipitous  cliff  to  the  left  at 
the  outlet  of  the  valley  rises  the  ruin  of  BarenfeU. 

9  M.  Wehr  (1207ft. ;  Krone;  *H6tel  Brugger),  a  manufacturing 
village  with  2600  inhab. ,  is  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of 
Werraeh. 

In  a  grassy  dale  which  opens  near  the  N.W.  houses  of  Wehr  is 
situated  the  Erdmdnnleinhohle ,  a  stalactite  cavern,  IV2  M.  from 
Wehr,  and  V2  M.  from  the  village  of  Hotel  (1321  ft. ;  Zur  Erd- 
mannleinhohle).  The  cavern  is  also  interesting  to  the  zoologist 
on  account  of  its  white  flies  and  blind  white  spiders.  The  inn- 
keeper atHasel  keeps  the  key  (fee  for  lpers.  I1/?™**  2pers.  2m.). 
—  A  good  road  leads  direct  from  Hasel  to  Schopfheim  (p.  358j, 
travellers  bound  for  which  need  not  return  to  Wehr. 

Beyond  Oeflingen,  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Wehr  (diligence,  p.  357),  the 
road  reaches  stat.  Brennet,  on  the  Bale-Waldshut  railway  (p.  366). 


360    Route  49.  ST.  BLASIEN.  Black  Forert. 

Albthal.  Another  very  interesting  route  is  that  from  the 
Feldberg  to  St.  Blasien,  and  through  the  Albthal  to  the  railway. 
From  the  Feldberg  down  to  (IY2  nr0  Menzenschwand ,  see  p.  356. 
Kenxenschwand  consists  of  Hinter-Menzenschwand  (4431  ft. ; 
Hirsch)  and  Vorder- Menzenschwand  (4254  ft. ;  *Adler).  About  6  M. 
farther  down  the  Albthal  (good  road)  lies  — 

St.  Blftlien.  —  Hotel*.  Hotel  St.  Blasien,  in  the  abbey-buildings, 
with  a  dependency  called  'Friedrich-und-Luiaen-Ruh1,  R.  2l/a,  'pens',  from 
5'/«m. ;  "Krone.  —  Carriage  to  Albbruck  orWaldshut  20  m.,  to  Brennet 
through  the  Wehrathal  25-30  m.  —  Diligences,  see  pp.  362,  367. 

St.  Blasien,  a  village  with  1000  inhab.,  was  once  celebrated  for 
its  wealthy  and  learned  Benedictine  abbey ,  founded  in  the  middle 
of  the  10th  cent,  and  secularised  in  1805,  and  is  now  frequently- 
resorted  to  as  summer-quarters  owing  to  its  healthy  situation.  The 
possessions  of  the  abbey  extended  over  the  whole  of  the  S.  part  of 
the  Black  Forest;  in  1611  it  attained  the  freedom  of  the  Empire, 
and  in  1746  its  abbot  was  raised  to  the  djgnity  of  a  prince  of  the 
Empire.  The  magnificent  library  was  seriously  injured  by  a  fire  in 
1786,  and  the  volumes  that  escaped  were  afterwards  removed  to 
Heidelberg.  The  buildings  are  now  used  partly  as  a  hotel  and  partly 
as  a  cotton-mill.  The  church,  built  in  1786,  after  the  model  of  the 
Pantheon,  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  fire  in  1874,  but  has 
been  restored.  The  Calvarienberg,  with  several  fine  views,  the 
Tusculum  waterfall,  and  other  points  in  the  environs  afford  pleasant 
walks.    The  Chasse  of  St.  Blasien  contains  numerous  deer. 

To  Schluchsee  (9  M.),  see  p.  364 ;  diligence,  p.  352.  The  shorter  route 
by  Blasiwald  is  indicated  by  a  finger-post  4  min.  below  the  Krone  Inn,  on 
the  left  of  the  Albthal  road. 

From  Freiburg  to  St.  Blasien,  see)  pp.  362-365;  from  Todtmoos, 
see  p.  369.  —  From  the  Wiesenthal.  A  road  leads  from  Oschwdnd  (p.  357) 
to  (12  M.)  St  Blasien  by  Prdg,  where  the  road  to  Todtmoos  diverges  to 
the  right;  sequestered  valleys  are  traversed  as  far  as  the  summit  of  the 
pass  (3201  ft.) ;  the  road  then  descends  through  the  Bernau,  a  grassy  valley 
with  several  hamlets,  to  St.  Blasien.  From  the  diligence-station  Bernau 
(Adler)  a  diligence  plies  daily  to  (6  M.)  St.  Blasien.  The  road  unites  with 
that  from  Menzenschwand  at  a  bridge  over  the  Albbach,  3  M.  from 
St.  Blasien. 

From  St.Blasien  to  (16  M.) Albbruck,  diligence  twice  daily  (p.357). 
As  far  as  (6  M.)  Immeneich  (p.  361)  the  valley  is  uninteresting.  The 
traveller  should  therefore  follow  the  Schluchsee  road  diverging  about 
3/4  M.  from  St.  Blasien,  and  then,  before  reaching  the  scattered 
village  of  (172  M.)  Hdusern  (Adler;  Deutscher  Kaiser),  take  the 
road  to  the  right,  which  leads  to  (IV2  M.)  Hochenschwand.  Pedes- 
trians should  follow  the  'Alte  Strasse',  indicated  by  the  flnger-post. 

Hochenschwand  (3326  ft. ;  *H6tel  Hochenschwand,  'pens.'  6- 
8m. ;  Hirsch,  Krone,  unpretending),  one  of  the  highest  villages  in 
the  Duchy  of  Baden,  where  straw-plaiting  is  extensively  carried  on, 
has  lately  come  into  notice  as  a  health-resort.  From  the  *Belvedere, 
5  min.  from  the  village,  a  magnificent  prospect  is  enjoyed,  compris- 
ing the  Algau  and  Vorarlberg  Mts.,  and  the  entire  chain  of  the 
Alps.  The  sunsets  are  often  superb.  Key  and  panorama  at  the  hotel. 


Black  Forest.  ALBTHAL.  49.  Route.     361 

To  regain  the  Albthal,  the  direct  footpath,  descending  rapidly  to 
lmmcncich  (Adler),  may  be  taken.  The  better  route,  however, 
is  by  a  carriage-road,  commanding  views  of  the  Alps,  by  (l^M.) 
Frohn8chwand  and  (1  M.)  Tiefenhdusern.  About  1/4  M.  farther  on 
our  way  (easily  overlooked)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  high-road, 
and  we  next  reach  (72  M.)  Brunadern  and  (1^2  M.)  Niedermuhle 
(Inn),  on  the  Albthal  road,  l1^  M.  to  the  S.  of  Immeneich. 

From  this  point  downwards  the  *  Albthal  becomes  narrower  and 
wilder.  The  road,  completed  in  1859,  passes  between  perpendicular 
rocks,  high  above  the  impetuous  brook,  and  affording  occasional  views 
of  the  grand  and  rocky  ravine.  The  most  imposing  part  of  the  route, 
considered  by  some  to  surpass  the  Wehrathal,  is  beyond  Tiefenstein 
(Krone,  much  frequented;  restaurant  near  the  bridge),  situated 
on  the  right  bank,  about  5  M.  below  Niedermuhle.  Beyond  Tiefen- 
stein five  tunnels  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  About  2  M. 
farther  on  we  pass  the  new  *H6tel  Zum  Hohenfels,  charmingly  sit- 
uated high  above  the  river.  Near  (2  M.)  Atbbruck  (p.  367),  on  the 
Bale-Waldshut  Railway,  the  valley  opens  into  that  of  the  Rhine. 


Road  from  Schluchseb  to  Thibnobh.  This  new  road  affords 
another  interesting  route  to  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  towards  the  S. 
—  Stcbrugg,  V/2  M.  S.  of  Schluchsee,  see  p.  355.  About  2%  M. 
to  the  E.  of  Seebrugg  (and  about  3/4  M.  short  of  Rothhaus)  our 
route  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Bonndorf  road,  and  enters  the 
wooded  valley  of  the  Mettmabach.  Soon  leaving  this  valley,  it  then 
leads  by  (3  M.)  Schonebach  and  (3/4  M.)  Staufen  to  (2i/4  M.)  Bren- 
den  (see  below).  Pedestrians  should  follow  the  Mettmathal  as  far 
as  the  Klausenmuhle  and  HaidenmuhU.  Below  the  latter  they  cross 
the  Mettma  to  the  right,  follow  the  valley  a  little  farther,  and  then 
ascend  through  wood  to  Brenden  (*Inn,  'Brendener  Seppel').  On 
the  high  plateau  of  Brenden  we  obtain  a  superb  *View  of  the  lower 
Swiss  mountains  and  the  whole  Alpine  chain.  The  road  next  leads 
from  Brenden  to  (3  M.)  Berau  (Rdssle),  commanding  a  good  view 
the  whole  way.  A  footpath  descends  direct  from  Berau  into  the 
Schluchtthal  (see  below).  The  road  descends  in  numerous  wind- 
ings, passing  a  pavilion  with  a  view  of  the  valley,  to  the  Witt- 
nauer  Muhle  (Inn) ,  beautifully  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Schlucht  (into  which  the  Mettmabach  falls  higher  up)  and  the 
Schwarza.  The  banks  of  the  upper  part  of  the  Schwarza  are  still  in 
their  natural  wildness,  undisturbed  by  footpaths. 

A  very  interesting  walk  (I1/2  hr.)  may  be  taken  from  the  Muhle,  by 
a  road  constructed  in  1880,  up  the  *  Schluchtthal ,  which  vies  in  pictur- 
esque beauty  with  the  Wehrathal  and  the  Albthal.  On  each  side  are 
lofty  and  partly  -  wooded  rocks.  At  one  place  the  stream  occupies  the 
whole  width  of  the  valley,  so  that  at  its  junction  with  the  Mettma  a  pas- 
sage for  the  new  road  had  to  be  hewn  through  the  rocks.  Travellers 
coming  from  the  S.  may  either  ascend  to  the  left  from  Berau,  or  follow 
the  Schlucht  to  Uehlingen  (2y4  hrs.  from  the  Witenauer  Muhle  \  Post),  on  the 
road  leading  from  Thiengen  to  Rothhaus  and  Schluchsee  and  to  Bonndorf. 


362    Route  49.  BADENWEILER.  Black  Forest. 

Beyond  the  Witznauer  Muhle  the  road  leads  by  Gutenburg,  with 
a  castle  of  that  name,  and  the  small  baths  of  Bruckhaua  (^Pension) 
to  (5  M.)  the  railway-station  of  Thiengen  (see  p.  367). 

h.  Badenweiler  and  Environs. 

Bargeta,  Blauen,  Belehen,  ■tinaterthal. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  366. 

Arrival.  At  the  railway-station  of  Mullheim  a  post-omnibut  (90  pf.  -, 
box  40-50  pf.)  and  carriage*  (5y2 m.  incl.  gratuity,  box  40-60  pf.)  are  in 
waiting  to  convey  travellers  (in  ll/*hr.)  to  Badenweiler.  As  the  omnibus 
has  no  supplementary  carriages  a  seat  should  be  secured  at  once.  At  Nie- 
derweiler  a  shorter  route  to  Badenweiler  (for  pedestrians)  diverges  to  the 
right  (l»/4-iV»  hr.). 

Hotels  at  Badenweiler.  *Romebbad,  R.  2-2 V2,  B.  i,  D.  3,  A.  Vsm., 
with  handsome  'dependance' $  *H6tel  Somxbb,  similar  charges ;  both  these 
hotels  have  baths.  Sonne,  unpretending.  —  Pensions:  Englkk;  Huglek; 
Sa dps,  well  spoken  of;  Sutteb;  *Tbautwbin,  unpretending.  —  Restaurant 
at  the  Trinkhalle ;  beer  at  Meittburger**.  —  Private  Apartments  (easily  ob- 
tained) 5-25  m.  per  week ;  a  few  houses  with  4pension\ 

At  Oberweiler,  less  expensive  than  Badenweiler:  < Pension  Venkdet-, 
*Ochs  and  Wilder  Mann,  with  baths ;  Blume.  —  At  Niederweiler,  on  the 
road  to  Mullheim :  Lows  and  Schwan,  unpretending. 

Visitor*'  Tax  at  Badenweiler  2  m.  per  week,  or  20  m.  for  the  season. 
Baths  at  the  Harmorbad  2  m.,  per  dozen  tickets  20  m.;  at  the  Freibad 
1  m.,  tickets  per  dozen  8-10  m. 

Carriage  Tariff  at  Badenweiler.  By  time:  first  hour  372  m.,  each  ad- 
ditional hour  272  m.,  with  gratuity  of  40  pf.  per  hour.  To  the  top  of  the 
Blauen ,  one  -  horse  9  m.  80  pf. ,  two-horse  for  2-3  pers.  14,  for  4-5  pers. 
19  m.,  gratuity  V/2  m.  •,  to  Burg  tin  7  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  10l/2  or  12  m., 
gratuity  lm.;  to  Kandern,  8  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  12  m.,  gratuity  1  m.;  to 
Sch&nau  15  m.  40  pf.,  two-horse  22  or  28  m.,  gratuity  2  m.  —  Donkey  to 
the  station  1  m.  70  pf.,  Blauen  3  m.,  Belchen  7  m. ,  Sophienruhe  70  pf. ; 
per  Viday  2  m.  75,  whole  day  5  m.  15  pf.  —  Hobsb  in  each  case  Vsthmore. 

Badenweiler  f  1385  ft.  above  the  sea,  680  ft.  above  the  Rhine), 
a  village  with  500  Protestant  inhab.,  lies  among  the  W.  spurs  of 
the  Black  Forest ,  on  a  buttress  of  the  Blauen ,  and  commands  an 
unimpeded  view  across  the  valley  of  the  Rhine  to  the  Vosges.  The 
thermal  springs  (77o-80°) ,  which  are  almost  destitute  of  mineral 
ingredients ,  were  known  to  the  Romans.  Badenweiler,  however, 
owes  its  present  prosperity  to  its  fine  air,  beautiful  situation,  and 
important  whey-cure.  It  is  a  pleasant  little  watering-place,  and  is 
patronised  by  3500  visitors  annually. 

The  Trinkhalle,  or  Curhaus,  contains  concert,  ball,  and  reading- 
rooms,  and  a  restaurant.   Music  6-8  a.m.,  and  3-5  p.m. 

Adjoining  the  Trinkhalle  is  a  large  Pabk,  with  numerous 
benches  in  pleasant  situations,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  crowned  with 
the  ruins  of  the  Castle,  which  was  originally  built  by  the  Romans  to 
protect  the  baths,  and  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Dukes  of  Zah- 
ringen  in  the  11th  century.   Fine  prospect  from  the  ivy-clad  walls. 

A  little  below  the  Trinkhalle,  to  the  E.,  rises  the  handsome  new 
Bath  House,  with  a  portico,  108  ft.  long  and  69  ft.  broad,  built  by 
Leonhard  of  Carlsruhe,  and  completed  in  1875.  The  arrangement 
of  the  interior  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  ancient  Roman  baths, 


Black  Forest.  BADENWEILER.  49.  Route.     363 

all  the  rooms  being  vaulted  and  lighted  from  above.  The  principal 
room  contains  the  Marmorbad,  behind  which  is  the  open  Freibad. 
The  ancient  *  Roman  Baths  (keys  procured  at  the  hothouse 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Cursaal,  fee  50  pf.),  in  the  Park  on  the  N.W. 
side  of  the  Cursaal ,  discovered  in  1784 ,  are  among  the  finest  in 
existence.  Length  106  yds. ,  breadth  33  yds. ;  the  walls,  parti- 
tions, pavements,  and  steps  are  all  well  preserved. 

The  structure  is  divided  into  two  corresponding  parts,  the  larger  of 
which,  to  the  W.,  was  reserved  for  the  men,  that  to  the  E.  for  the  wo- 
men. On  each  side  there  is  a  vestibule  (atrium),  used  for  walking  and 
gymnastic  exercises,  whence  a  passage,  adjoined  on  the  8.  by  the  dress- 
ing-room (apodyterium)  and  on  the  N.  by  the  vapour  or  hot-air  bath  (ca- 
Udariurn),  led  to  the  two  cold-baths  (frigidaria),  each  measuring  S3  by 
21  ft.  Beyond  these  are  the  warm  baths  (tepidaria),  2&lfa  by  24»/«  ft. 
Other  smaller  rooms  served  as  anointing-rooms  (unctoria),  and  for  other 
purposes.  The  baths  were  probably  constructed  in  the  second  century  of 
our  era. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Klemmbaeh  to  the  N.  of  Badenweiler, 
through  which  the  road  from  Mullheim  ascends,  are  situated  the 
villages  of  Niederweiler  (968  ft.)  and  Oberweiler  (1115  ft. ;  hotels, 
see  p.  362),  both  of  which  are  favourite  watering-places.  The  latter 
is  frequented  in  spring  and  autumn  as  being  more  sheltered  and 
quieter  than  Badenweiler.  Farther  up  lies  Schweighof  (1263  ft. ; 
*  Sonne))  2  M.  from  Badenweiler,  much  resorted  to  by  visitors. 

About  21/*  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Schweighof  rises  the  ruin  of  Neuenfels 
(1975  ft.),  commanding  a  fine  view  of  Badenweiler,  the  Black  Forest,  and 
the  valley  of  the  Rhine.  The  direct  route  from  Badenweiler  to  Neuenfels 
is  somewhat  shorter.  The  Brudermattfelsen,  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Schweig- 
hof (road  indicated  by  numerous  way-posts),  also  commands  an  excellent 
view. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Badenweiler  are  numerous  picturesque 
and  well-kept  forest-paths  leading  to  beautiful  points  of  view, 
which  will  be  easily  found  with  the  aid  of  the  following  directions. 
A  finger-post  on  the  Eandern  road.  7  min.  from  the  Romerbad,  in- 
dicates the  ascent  to  the  Sophienruhe:  2  min.,  at  a  cross-way,  continue 
to  ascend  in  a  straight  direction  *,  at  the  (7  min.)  'Rondel1  turn  to  the  left ; 
7  min.,  turn  to  the  left  again,  then  descend  slightly  to  the  left;  3  min., 
the  *  Sophienruhe,  an  open  space  on  the  outskirts  of  the  wood,  200  ft.  above 
the  village,  commanding  a  more  picturesque  view  than  the  old  castle, 
which  with  Badenweiler  itself  forms  a  beautiful  foreground. 

On  the  way  back,  2  min.  from  the  Sophienruhe,  a  broad  path  ascends 
to  the  left  through  wood,  crossing  the  road,  to  (5  min.)  the  road  to  the 
Blauen  and  to  the  (}/*  hr.)  *Alte  Mann,  a  rocky  height,  accessible  by 
bridges  and  steps,  about  160  ft.  higher  than  the  Sophienruhe ;  view  simi- 
lar, beautiful  wooded  foreground.  An  unimpeded  view  of  Badenweiler  is 
obtained  from  a  rock  farther  to  the  S.,  to  which  a  path,  passing  to  the 
right  of  the  hut,  leads  at  about  the  same  level. 

We  may  then  return  to  Badenweiler  by  the  Schubergsfelsen  or  by 
Haus  Baden.  The  Schubergsfelsen,  another  point  of  view,  is  reached  in 
10  min.  by  a  path  which  gradually  ascends  to  the  N.  of  the  hut.  Farther 
on,  the  path  crosses  the  road  to  the  Blauen  and  leads  through  the  narrow, 
pine-clad  Vogelbachthal.  From  the  Alte  Mann  a  path  descends  in  wind- 
ings in  7*  hr.  to  Haus  Baden  (*Inn),  formerly  a  miners'  tavern.  Baden- 
weiler, to  which  there  is  a  carriage-road,  lies  1  M.  to  the  N. 

Wgisheim  ("Krone),  a  village  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  reached  from 
Badenweiler  by  a  shady  path  in  iy2  hr.,  is  another  pleasant  object  for 
a  walk.    Auggen,  see  p.  335. 


364     Route  49.  BURGELN.  Black  Forest. 

Fhom  Badbnwbilbr  to  BCrgbln  (6 1/2  M.).  The  best  route  is 
by  the  Kandern  road  to  (II/2  M.)  8ehringen.  About  */2  M«  farther 
on,  a  path  diverges  to  the  right  beyond  the  'Alpenansicht'  (Inn),  an 
open  spot  in  the  wood,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Bernese  Alps. 

•Bchloii  Bargain  (2182  ft. ;  *Inn)  was  formerly  a  chateau  of 
the  wealthy  Benedictine  abbey  of  St.  Blasien  (p.  360),  and  was 
founded  in  the  12th  century.  The  stag  which  figures  in  the  arms 
of  St.  Blasien  still  serves  as  a  weather-cock.  The  present  building, 
adorned  with  numerous  stucco-ornaments  and  figures  of  the  patrons 
of  St.  Blasien,  dates  from  1762.  The  church  is  used  for  Roman  Ca- 
tholic worship ;  the  care*  lives  next  door. 

Burgeln  commands  a  striking  and  uninterrupted  view,  resembling 
that  from  the  Blauen,  at  the  S.  base  of  which  it  lies,  though  less  exten- 
sive. To  the  £.  are  seen  the  mountains  enclosing  the  Wiesenthal  (p.  357) ; 
8.E.  the  snow-clad  Alps  from  the  Scheerhorn  to  the  Jungfrau  (see  he- 
low),  with  the  Jura  in  front  of  them-,  in  the  foreground  well-wooded 
heights,  on  the  principal  of  which  Kandern  lies*,  farther  back  are  Bale, 
Huningen,  Mulh&usen,  and  the  Vo  ges. 

Faom  BtiRGELN  to  the  Bladen.  An  easy  road,  not  to  be  mistaken, 
with  windings  which  may  be  avoided  by  pedestrians,  leads  to  the  top  in 
2  hrs.  (see  way-posts). 

About  37s  M.  to  the  S.  of  Burgeln  lies  Kandern  (1161  ft. ;  Ocht;  Blume), 
a  busy  little  town  with  1600  inhab.,  to  reach  whieh  a  pleasant  detour  of 
about  2V2  hrs.  may  be  made  via  K&sacker,  Vogelbach,  and  the  ruins  of 
Saussenberg  (2182  ft. ;  key  at  Vogelbach),  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1678. 
—  From  Kandern  to  (10  M.)  Lifrrach,  diligence  twice  daily,  see  p.  368-,  to 
(5V2  M.)  ScMiengen  (p.  335),  diligence  twice  daily. 

The  *  Blanen  (3832  ft.),  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  Black 
Forest,  and  the  nearest  to  the  Rhine,  at  the  N.  base  of  which  Baden- 
weiler  lies,  is  easily  ascended  in  24/2  hours.  The  carriage-road,  di- 
verging to  the  left  from  the  Kandern  road  at  the  back  of  Badenweiler, 
cannot  be  missed.  About  72  nr-  from  the  top  is  a  spring  of  excellent 
water,  indicated  by  a  finger-post.  Apparent  short-cuts  must  be 
avoided.  On  the  summit  are  an  inn,  and  a  wooden  tower  which  com- 
mands an  unimpeded  view  of  the  Alps  from  Glarnisch  to  the  Matter- 
horn  and  Mont  Blanc,  the  Jura,  the  plain  of  the  Rhine,  the  Vpsges, 
and  the  Black  Forest.   Direct  route  to  the  Belchen,  44/2-5  hours. 


The  Belchen  and  Milnsterthal  require  a  whole  day.  To  the  sum- 
mit of  the  former  in  5  hrs.,  down  to  Neumiihl  2  hrs.,  thence  to 
Krotzingen  (p.  334)  6V2  M.,  a  drive  of  1  hr,  (3»/2  m.).  The  route 
from  Badenweiler  to  the  summit  of  the  Belchen  is  amply  supplied 
with  way-posts.   Horse  or  donkey,  see  p.  362. 

From  Badenweiler  to  the  Belchen  (5  hrs.).  A  good  road  leads  to 
the  E.  to  (2  M.)  Schweighof  (p.  363),  where  the  Badenweiler  and  Ober- 
weiler  roads  meet.  We  then  proceed  straight  on  through  forest  scenery, 
following  the  course  of  the  rapid  Klemmbach,  to  the  (4  M.)  Sirnite,  a  forester's 
house  (Inn)  in  a  green  dale.  The  broad  road  now  ascends  to  the  left  along 
the  N.  slope,  and  reaches  (IV2  M.)  a  depression  where  the  Belchen  be- 
comes visible.  Then  descend :  to  the  right  are  the  (»/«  M.)  huts  of  Ober- 
Heubronn,  where  finger-posts  indicate  the  routes  to  Bad  Sulzbach  and,  a 
few  steps  farther  on,  to  the  Munsterthal  (Staufen);  1/4  M.  farther  is  another 


post  indicating  the  route  to  the  Belchen,  to  the  left;  after  about  120  paces, 
traight  direction.    Beyond   the  first  height  the  path  skirts 


ascend  in  a  straight  < 


Black  Forest.  BELCHEN.  49.  Route.     365 

the  wood  to  the  left  in  order  to  reach  the  opposite  slope,  avoiding  the 
valley  by  a  long  circuit.  In  '/«  hr.  the  path  enters  the  wood;  */<  hr., 
finger-post  'to  the  Belchenhaus' •,  10  min.,  an  open  eminence  with  a  hut; 
25  min.,  last  saddle;  20  min.,  the  Belchenrasthaus,  an  unpretending  but 
comfortable  inn  with  12  beds  (R.  &  B.  272  m.);  10  min.  summit.  [In  the 
reverse  direction  we  keep  to  the  right  at  the  Rasthaus,  at  first  ascending 
slightly  along  the  slope  of  the  hill,  and  then  descending  in  zigzags;  50  min. 
wood ;  20  min.  end  of  the  wood.  In  25  min.  more  we  reach  the  road 
leading  to  the  lower  Munsterthal ,  from  which  the  (4  min.)  road  to  Miill- 
heixn  and  Badenweller  by  the  Sirnitz  diverges  to  the  left.] 

The  *Belchen  (4641  ft.),  perhaps  the  finest  point  of  view  in  the 
Black  Forest,  commands  a  most  picturesque  and  uninterrupted  sur- 
vey of  the  surrounding  valleys,  especially  the  attractive  Miinster- 
thal  towards  the  W.,  the  Wiesenthal  to  the  S.,  and  the  Rhine  Valley 
stretching  far  into  the  distance  to  the  W.  In  clear  weather  a  magni- 
ficent distant  prospect  is  enjoyed.  Four  mountain-chains  are  visible : 
to  the  E.  the  Black  Forest  with  its  numerous  peaks,  W.  the  Vosges, 
S.  the  Jura,  and  the  snow-clad  Alps.  The  view  from  the  inn  is 
limited  on  the  N.  side  only,  so  that  the  fine  sunrises  and  sunsets 
as  well  as  the  Alpine  prospect  may  be  enjoyed  from  the  house. 

Ascent  of  the  Belchen  from  Schonau  in  the  Wiesenthal  (2>/4  hrs.). 
Guide  unnecessary  (numerous  finger-posts).  A  road  ascends  to  the  right 
by  the  inn  Zur  Sonne  (p.  357);  after  8  min.,  turn  to  the  right  by  a  cross; 
15  min.  SchVneberg ;  a  little  farther  on ,  in  a  straight  direction ,  is  a  bare 
eminence  from  which  the  Alps  are  visible.  A  steep  path  ascends  thence 
through  wood  to  the  crest,  where  we  proceed  to  the  right,  eventually  over 
grass,  to  the  Belchenhaus  (see  above). 

Fkom  the  Belchen  to  the  Munsterthal  (zigzag  descent  from  the 
Belchenhaus,  3  hrs.).  After  35  min.  we  reach  a  broader  path  ('Auf  der 
Krinn')  leading  from  the  Miinsterthal  to  Schonau,  which  we  follow  to  the 
left ;  40  min.  farther  the  first  houses  are  reached.  We  continue  to  descend 
the  valley,  passing  numerous  farm-houses;  */*  hr.,  Neumtthl  (Krone),  where 
our  path  joins  the  road  from  Staufen  to  Neuenweg  and  Schopfheira,  which 
we  follow  to  the  right.  At  (20  min.)  the  hamlet  of  Wasen  (see  below) 
the  Staufen- Schopfheim  road  unites  with  the  Ober-Miinsterthal  road. 
From  this  point,  down  the  valley  of  the  Neumagen-Bach,  to  Staufen  3  M. 


The  Munsterthal,  a  picturesque,  grassy  valley,  watered  by  the  Neu- 
magen-Bach,  enclosed  by  wooded  hills,  and  enlivened  by  several  groups 
of  houses,  is  narrow  at  the  upper  end,  but  gradually  widens.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  valley,  3  M.  from  Krotzingen  (railway  stat.,  p.  334;  omni- 
bus several  times  daily,  up  in  45,  down  in  35  min.)  40  pf.),  lies  the  an- 
cient little  town  of  Staufen  {Badischer  Hof;  Kreuz,  well  spoken  of),  over- 
shadowed by  the  ruined  Stavfenbwgy  the  seat  of  a  powerful  race  which 
became  extinct  in  1602.  Rathhaus  of  the  16th  century.  The  vineyards  on 
the  hill  yield  good  'Burgha^^  wine.  —  At  the  hamlet  of  Wasen,  3  M. 
above  Staufen,  the  valley  divides  into  the  Unter-MUnsterthal  to  the  right, 
and  the  Ober- Miinsterthal  to  the  left.  The  route  to  the  Belchen  described 
above  leads  through  the  former.  Ascending  the  Qber-Hftnsterthal  to  the 
N.E. ,  towards  the  Schau-ins-Land ,  we  pass  the  ancient  monastery  of 
St.  Trudpert,  and  reach  (il/-i  M.)  the  inn  Am  Spielweg.  A  good  new  road 
ascends  hence  in  long  windings  towards  the  S.,  through  wild  and  roman- 
tic scenery.  After  2  M.  the  *Scharfenstein,  a  precipitous  rock  of  porphyry, 
crowned  by  the  scanty  remains  of  a  robbers'*  castle,  rises  on  the  left,  the 
finest  point  on  the  route.  The  road  then  reaches  (31/2  M.)  the  culminat- 
ing point  of  the  Wiedenereek  (3395  ft.),  and  descends  thence  in  numerous 
windings  (commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  Alps)  by  the  village  of  Wiedeft 
(Hirsch)  to  (4y2  M.)  Utzenfeld  in  the  Wiesenthal  (p.  357). 


366 

50.  From  BAle  by  Schaffhausen  to  Constance. 

90  M .  Railway  in  4»/«-5  hrs.  (fares  11  m.  60,  7  m.  70,  4  m.  95  pf.).  Views 
on  the  right.    Comp.  Map,  p.  366. 

BdU,  see  p.  335.  The  line  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the 
Rhine,  which  here  flows  in  a  channel  of  considerable  depth.  3%M. 
Orenzach,  where  an  excellent  variety  of  'Markgrafler'  (p.  335)  is 
produced.  5  M.  Wyhlen;  74/2M.  Her  then.  The  line  now  approaches 
the  Rhine,  which  dashes  impetuously  over  rocks  and  stones,  form- 
ing the  HbllenKaken  and  other  rapids.  Salmon  are  caught  here  in 
large  quantities.  The  opposite  Swiss  bank  is  precipitous  and  wood- 
ed. —  9V2  M.  Bei  Rheinfelden  (*Bellevue,  with  salt-baths ;  Rail- 
way Hotel). 

The  Swiss  town  of  Rheinfelden  (866  ft.  •,  +H6M  Dielichy,  with  the  Krone 
as  dependence,  gardens  on  the  Rhine,  and  baths ;  *Rhetnsootbady  1/a  M.  above 
the  town;  "Bchiilzen;  8chiff,  all  with  salt-baths),  was  in  ancient  times 
strongly  fortified  and  repeatedly  besieged.  In  1638  it  was  captured  by 
Duke  Bernard  of  Weimar;  in  1687  it  was  unsuccessfully  bombarded  by 
the  French  under  Marshal  Crequi ;  and  in  1744  it  was  taken  by  Marshal 
Bellisle  and  razed  to  the  ground.  Since  1801  it  has  belonged  to  Switzer- 
land. Within  the  last  20  or  30  years  numerous  visitors  (about  1500  an- 
nually) have  been  attracted  to  Rheinfelden  by  its  strong  saline  spring,  con- 
taining 30  per  cent  of  common  salt,  and  by  the  protection  its  situation 
affords  against  the  cold  N.  winds. 

The  line  intersects  the  vineyards  and  gardens  of  (12  M.)  Beuggen 
(909  ft.),  formerly  a  lodge  of  the  Teutonic  Order,  used  since  1817 
as  a  seminary  for  teachers  and  reformatory  for  children.  —  15  M. 
Nieder8chwbr8tadt.  17*/2  M.  Brennet  (Zum  Wchrathal;  Kreuz), 
the  station  for  the  *  Wehrastrasse  (see  p.  359). 

2072  M.  S&ckingen  (958  ft.;  Schutze;  Lowe  or  Badgasthof; 
beer  at  the  8chwarze  WaHftsch) ,  a  manufacturing  town  with  3500 
inhab.,  possesses  an  old  abbey-church  with  two  towers,  restored  in 
the  17th  cent. ,  which  contains  the  remains  of  St.  Fridolin ,  the 
apostle  of  this  district.  The  abbey,  subsequently  a  nunnery,  was 
secularised  in  the  early  part  of  the  present  century. 

The  chateau  on  the  Rhine,  alluded  to  in  ScheffePs  'Trompeter  von 
Sackingen',  is  now  private  property.  The  river  here  is  crossed  by  a 
bridge  to  the  Swiss  bank.  —  Excursion  to  the  (IV2  M.)  Schwartsee  or 
Scheffeltee,  to  the  N.  of  the  station,  on  the  road  to  Herrischried  (see 
below). 

To  the  left  of  the  railway  stands  the  new  church  of  Ober- 
Sackingen.  —  24  M.  Murg  (1025  ft.  ■  Zum  Murgthal),  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  the  stream  of  that  name.  A  new  road  ascends  the  pictur- 
esque valley  of  the  Murg  to  (6V4  M.)  Hotting  en  (Sonne),  about  half- 
way to  which,  on  a  hill  to  the  left,  rises  the  Harpolinger  Schlosa. 
Beyond  Hottingen  the  road  leads  to  (3  M.)  Herriichried  and 
(7t/2  M.  farther)  Vorder-Todtmoos  (p.  359). 

Opposite  (264/4  M.)  Klein-Laufenburg  (*Post,  unpretending)  is 
the  Swiss  town  of  Laufenburg  (Rheinsoolbad,  with  salt-baths  and  a 
terrace  on  the  river;  beer  at  the  Pfau,  with  *View),  picturesquely 
placed  on  the  left  bank ,  with  its  ancient  castle,  below  which  the 
Rhine  dashes  impetuously  over  its  narrow  and  rocky  bed.    These 


WALDSHUT.  SO.  Route.     367 

xapids  have  more  than  once  been  successfully  navigated,  but  the 
experiment  is  of  course  extremely  perilous. 

The  eighth  Lord  Montagu,  the  last  of  his  family,  perished  here  in  1793, 
and  by  a  singular  eoincidence  his  ancestral  mansion  of  Cowdray  House 
in  Sussex  was  burned  down  almost  on  the  same  day,  and  has  never 
been  rebuilt.  Below  the  cataraet,  salmon  are  caught  in  considerable  num- 
bers. Down  to  1803  Klein-Laufenburg  and  Gross -Laufenburg  formed  a 
single  Austrian  town,  but  the  former  now  belongs  to  Baden,  the  latter  to 
Switzerland.    *View  of  Gross-Laufenburg  from  the  Schlossberg. 

The  line  passes  through  a  tunnel,  and  beyond  (28*/2  M.)  Albert- 
Hauenstein  crosses  a  lofty  viaduct. 

30  M.  Albbruck  (1017  ft. ;  *Zum  Albthat),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
•AMKal  (p.  360).  —  32y2  M.  Dogern. 

35  M.  Waldshut  (*ScAaei*&,  near  the  station ;  Hotel  Blum ;  *Reb- 
stock,  in  the  town),  the  most  important  of  these  small  towns  on  the 
Rhine,  with  2500  inhab.,  lies  at  a  considerable  height  above  the 
river.  Railways  to  Turgi  (Zurich)  and  Winterthur,  see  Baedekers 
Switzerland.  —  Quitting  Waldshut,  the  train  passes  through  a  tun- 
nel, and  skirts  the  hills  to  the  left.  38  M.  Thiengen  (Krone ;  to 
Witznau  and  Schluchsee,  see  p.  361). 

41^4  M.  Oberlauchringen,  where  the  Wutach  is  crossed. 

From  Oberlauchringen  to  Weizen,  121/*  M.,  railway  in  52  min.  (fares 
1  m.  70,  1  m.  15,  75  pf.).  —  The  line  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Wutach. 
l«/4  M.  Horheim;  41/sM.  O/teringen;  5V2  M.  Untereggingen;  8  M.  Eberfingen. 
IOV2  M.  StUhlingen  (Hirsch;  Adler),  an  ancient  town,  commanded  by  a 
castle,  affording  fine  views.  Pleasant  excursions  thence  to  Schleitheitn, 
Uhterhallau,  etc.  Excavations  in  an  old  Roman  camp  near  Schleitheim 
have  brought  to  light  a  number  of  interesting  antiquities.   12V2  M.  Weizen. 

The  train  crosses  the  Wutach.  The  ruined  castle  of  Kusaenbergy 
on  a  wooded  eminence  to  the  right,  is  now  passed.  — 45  M.  OrUssen. 
Beyond  (48  M.)  Erzingen,  the  train  enters  Swiss  territory.  49  M. 
Wilchingen;  51  M.  Neunkirch;  55  M.  Bering  en. 

57V2  M.  Keuhausen  (*Schweizerhof ;  mBellevue ;  *H6tel  Rhein- 
fally  unpretending),  station  for  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine. 

The  'Falls  of  the  Bhine,  one  of  the  finest  cascades  in  Europe,  locally 
called  the  'Laufen\  descend  in  three  leaps  over  a  ledge  of  rock  of  unequal 
height.  The  breadth  of  the  river  above  the  falls  is  about  126  yds.  The 
height  of  the  unbroken  fall  is  62  ft.  near  the  left  bank  and  49  ft.  by  the  right. 
If  the  rapids  above  and  below  are  taken  into  consideration  the  whole  fall 
is  nearly  100  ft  high.  The  river  is  fullest  in  June  and  July,  owing  to  the 
melting  of  the  snow.  On  a  wooded  rock  high  above  the  falls,  on  the  left 
bank,  is  the  picturesquely  situated  Schloss  Laufen  (*Inn),  the  garden  of 
which  affords  the  best  points  of  view ,  viz,  the  Pavilion,  the  Kdnzli,  and 
in  particular  the  Fischetz,  a  gallery  projecting  over  the  roaring  cataract 
(adm.  1  fr.  each;  no  gratuity).  —  From  the  Heuhausen  Station  we  de- 
scend through  the  pleasure-grounds  to  the  Schlosschen  W&rth  (restaurant; 
ferry  50  c.)  which  commands  a  superb  view  of  the  falls.  We  then  visit 
the  different  points  of  view  at  Schloss  Laufen,  and  return  by  the  Rhein- 
fallbrucke  to  Neuhausen,  or  proceed  (*/<  hr.)  to  the  Swiss  station  of  Daeh- 
sen  (*Hdtel  Witzig).     Comp.  Baedeker's  Switzerland. 

59l/2M.  Schaffhausen(1296ft. ;  *Krone,  in  the  town,  R.  21/2 &.; 
Riese,  Rheinischer  Hof,  Hdtel  Mutter,  all  near  the  station ;  *Post ; 
Schwan,  Sehiff,  unpretending ;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a  picturesque  old 
town  with  11,700  inhab.,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rhine,  the  capi- 


368    Route  50.  CONSTANCE. 

tal  of  the  Swiss  canton  of  the  same  name,  was  formerly  a  fiee  im- 
perial city,  and  still  retains  many  of  ite  ancient  characteristics. 
The  early  Romanesque  Munster,  a  basilica  supported  by  columns, 
was  built  in  1052-1 101,  and  has  lately  been  restored.  The  massive 
tower  of  Sehloss  Munoth  dates  from  the  12th  and  16th  centuries 
(view  from  the  top).  The  F&senstaub  Promenade  affords  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Alps.    Comp.  Baedeker's  Switzerland. 

62  M.  Herblingen;  65  M.  Thayingen.  The  train  now  re-enters 
Baden.  68  M.  Gottmadingen.  72  M.  Singen  (*  Krone,  R.,  S.,  &  B. 
3l/2  m. ;  *Hohgauer  Hof),  the  junction  of  the  Black  Forest  Railway 
(R.  49e)  and  of  the  Upper  Neckar  line  (see  Baedeker's  8.  Germany). 

About  2  M.  to  tbe  N.W.,  on  an  isolated  basaltic  rock,  rises  the  fortress 
of  *Hohentwiel  (2267  ft.),  an  'enclave1  of  Wurtemberg  within  the  Bavarian 
dominions ,  which  was  bravely  and  successfully  defended  by  the  Wurtem- 
berg commandant  Wiederhold  in  tbe  Thirty  Years'  War.  The  grand  ruins 
command  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Tyrolese  and  Swiss  Alps  as  far  as  Mont 
Blanc.  A  guide  and  the  keys  of  the  tower  are  procured  at  the  farm  (Inn), 
half-way  up. 

75V2  M.  Rickelshausen.  —  78  M.  Badolfsell  (*Schiff;  Krone), 
an  ancient  town,  with  walls,  gates,  and  a  handsome  Gothic  church 
dating  from  1436,  is  situated  on  the  Uniersee.  Near  it,  on  the  lake, 
are  the  villa  of  Seehalde  and  the  Mettnau,  both  belonging  to  the 
poet  Victor  von  Scheffel.  The  line  intersects  the  tongue  of  land  be- 
tween the  Untersee  and  the  TJeberlinger-See.  80  M.  Marhelfingen ; 
83%  M.  AUensbach;  87  M.  Reichenau. 

In  the  middle  of  the  Untersee  lies  the  island  of  Beiohenau,  in  the  domi- 
nions of  Baden ,  3%  M.  long ,  lVs  M.  wide ,  connected  with  the  £.  bank 
by  an  embankment,  */«  M.  in  length.  The  Benedictine  abbey  erected  on 
the  island  was  secularised  in  1799.  ■  The  church ,  consecrated  as  early  as 
806,  contains  the  remains  of  Charles  the  Fat,  great-grandson  of  Charle- 
magne, dethroned  in  887.  The  building  now  serves  as  a  parish-church  for 
the  village  of  Mittelzell,  or  MUnster  (Krone).  The  tower  and  nave  belong 
to  the  original  structure.  The  church,  once  richly  endowed,  fell  to  decay 
in  the  14th  century.  With  the  exception  of  some  relics  in  the  sacristy,  it 
now  exhibits  few  traces  of  antiquity. 

The  train  crosses  the  Rhine  by  an  iron  bridge  and  stops  at  — 

90  M.  Constance.  —  Hotels.  *Konstanzer  Hof,  on  the  N.  bank  of 
the  lake,  with  a  large  garden,  baths,  etc.,  R.  3l/3,  B.  1,  D.  3,  'pens.'  from 
5!/a  m. ;  *Insel  Hotel,  in  the  old  Dominican  monastery,  with  a  garden, 
E.  272  m.  •,  both  these  have  a  view  of  the  lake;  *Hecht,  R.  2,  D.  3  m.; 
Hotel  Halm ,  opposite  the  station,  R.  -and  A.  2'/2,  B.  lm.;  Adlbr,  with 
a  garden;  Badischek  Hof;  Krone,  Schiff,  and  Falke,  second-class. 

Constance  (1335  ft.),  with  13,350  inhab.,  a  free  town  of  the 
Empire  down  to  1548,  lies  at  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Lake  of  Con- 
stance, at  the  efflux  of  the  Rhine.  The  Cathedral,  with  its  inter- 
esting sculptures  and  rich  treasury ,  the  Stadt-Kanzlei  (frescoes 
outside),  the  old  Kaufhaus  with  the  Council  Chamber  (also  adorned 
with  frescoes),  and  the  Rosgarten  Museum  are  the  chief  attractions. 
Pleasant  excursion  to  the  island  of  Mainau  (l1^  nr-)>  formerly  the 
seat  of  a  commandery  of  the  Teutonic  Order  and  now  a  summer  re- 
sidence of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Baden.  For  fuller  details  see  Bae- 
deker's 8,  Germany,  or  Baedeker's  Switzerland. 


INDEX. 


Aachen  4. 
Aar  Valley,  the  197. 
Abenden  12. 
Acher,  the  326.  399.  841. 
Achcrn  326. 
Adenau  86. 

Adolphseck,ruin  130. 197. 
Adolphshohe,  the  (Caub) 
106. 

—  CNiederwald)  123. 

—  (Wiesbaden)  136. 
Aenle  366. 
Aftersteg  363. 
Agger,  the  62. 
Aglasterhausen  240. 
Ahbach,  the  182. 
Ahr,  the  81.  66. 
Ahr,  Valley  of  the  81. 
Ahrweiler  83. 
Ahiitte  182. 
Aix-la-Chapelle  4. 
Alb,  the  366.  360. 
Albersweller  261. 
Albbruck  367. 
Albersbach  366. 
Albert-Hauenstein  367. 
Albig  247.  248. 
Albisheim  248. 
Albresehweiler  Thai,  the 

284. 
Albshausen  196. 
Albsheim  248. 
Albthal  360.  361. 
Aldegund  174. 
Aldekerk  46. 
Alexanderschanze,    the 

342.  343. 
Alf  176.  175. 
— ,  the  176.  185. 
Alfthal,  the  177. 176. 185. 
Aiken  171. 
Allensbach  368. 
Allerheiligen  342. 
Allerheiligenberg,  the  99. 
Allner,  castle  52. 
Alpirsbach  346. 
AlsbacherSchloss.the  225. 
Alsdorf  11. 
Alsens  160. 
— ,  the  180. 
Alsheim  244. 
Alspach  297. 

Babdbub's  Rhine. 


Altarstein,  the  228. 
Alt-Breisach  334. 
Alt-Ebentein  322. 
Alte  Burg  (Ahr  valley)  85. 

(near  Boppard)  103. 

Alte  Haus,  the  196. 
Alte  Mann,  the  363. 
Altena  51. 
Altenahr  84. 
Altenbamberg  149.  190. 
Altenbaumburg,  the  149. 
Altenberg  (near  Bergisch- 

Oladbach)  21. 
—  (on  the  Lahn)  198. 
— ,  the  301. 
Altenburg  (Ahr)  85. 
— ,  the  (Moselle)  171. 
— ,  —  (Soonwald)  152. 
Altenglan  256. 
Altenhainer  Thai  218. 
Altenhundem  51. 
Altenkirehen  63. 
Altenweg  354. 
Altglashiitte  354.  366. 
Altkirch  282. 
Altkonig,  the  219. 
Altlussheim  240. 
Alt-Miinsterol  282. 
Altrich  176. 
Altweier  293. 
Altwied  63. 
Alt-Windeck  326. 
Alzette,  the  168. 
Alzey  248. 
Amanvillera  158. 
St.  Amarinthal,  the  303. 
Amelen  11. 
Ammerschweier  296. 
Amorbach  231. 
Ampfersbach  300. 
Am  Thurm  347. 
Andel  179. 

Andernach  61.  65.  70. 
Andlau  291. 
Anebos,  ruin  262. 
Angenbachthal,  the  357. 
Annweiler  262. 
Anrath  49. 
Ans  3. 

Antogast  343. 
Antoniusstein,  ruins  88. 
Antweiler  85. 
8th  Edit. 


Apollinarisberg  58. 
Apollinarisbrunnen  82. 
Apollinariskirche,  the  68. 
Appel,  the  150. 
Appenthal  255. 
Appenweier  326. 
Ardeck  197. 
Aremberg  86. 
Arenberg  Ql. 
Arenfels  60.  65.  69. 
Ariendorf  60.  69. 
Armsheim  247. 
Arnhem  14. 
Arnstein,  inonast.  196. 
Arras,  Burg  185. 
Ars-sur-Moselle  159. 
Arzbach  71. 
Arzbacher  Kopfe  194. 
Arzweiler  Tunnel  277. 
Asbach  240. 
Asbacher  Thai  80. 
Aschaffenburg  231. 
Aspach  306. 
Asselheim  249. 
Assmannshauaen  114.123. 

127. 
Astenet  3.  10. 
Asterstein,  the  97. 
Attenbach  52. 
Attendorn  51. 
Attert,  the  169. 
Atzenbach  357. 
Au  (Murgthal)  338. 
—  (Siegthal)  53. 
Aubure  293. 
Auerbach  226. 
Auggen  336. 

Augustahohe,  the  99.95. 
Aulhausen  123. 
Aumenau  198. 
Auring-Medenbach  220. 
Auw  184. 
Avolsheim  286. 
Avricourt  287. 

Baal  47. 

Bacharach  110.  125. 

Baden  314. 

Badener  Hoke,   the  338. 

Badenscheuren  321. 

Badenweiler  362. 

Baderlei,  the  194. 

24 


370 


INDEX. 


Baienbronn  339. 
Baldeneltz,  castle  172. 
Baldenweger  Hiitte.  the 

365. 
Balduinstein  196. 
Bale  336. 
Balkhausen  228. 
Ballersteinkopf  276. 
Ballon  dn  Alsace  806. 

—  de  Servance  306. 

—  de  Soultz  304. 
Bammenthal  240. 
Ban  de  la  Roche  286. 
Bannatein  273. 
Banzenheim  282. 
Barbelroth  252. 
Barbelstein  264. 
Barenfels,  ruin  359. 
Barenhalde,  the  336. 
Barenthal,  the  (near  Nie- 

derbronn)  273. 
— ,  —(Black  Forest) 366. 
Barhalde,  the  364. 
Barl,  the  176. 
Barmen  60. 
Baroche,  La  297. 
Barr  287. 
Bartenheim  282. 
Barweiler  182. 
Basel  336. 
Bassenheim  64. 
Bastberg,  the  274. 
Battert.  the  321. 
Bausenberg,  the  88. 
BcSchine,  the  297. 
Beckingen  161. 
Bedburg  12. 
Beekhuizen  15. 
Beerfelden  232. 
Beilstein  174. 
Belchen,  the  366. 
— ,  Kleine  302. 
— ,  Sulzer  304. 
— ,  Walsche  305. 
Belfort  282. 
Bell,  89. 

Bellenberg,  the  87. 
Bellevue  291. 
Bellheim  261. 
Bellingen  335. 
Belmont  285. 
Bendorf  70.  64. 
Benfeld  278. 
Bengel  176. 
Beningen  156.  274. 
Bennweier  278. 
Benrath  21. 
Bensberg  21.  55. 
Bensheim  226. 
Berau  361. 
Berchem  160. 
Berg  261. 
Bergerbach,  the  357. 


Berghausen  260. 
Bergisch-Gladbach  21. 
Bergstein  12. 
— ,  the  251. 
Bergstrasse,  the  224. 
Bergzabern  253. 
Beringen  367. 
Bermersbach  338. 
Bernau  360. 
— ,  the  360. 
Berncastel  179. 
Berneck  346. 
— ,  the  347. 
Bernstein,  ruin  287. 
Berthelmingen  277. 
Bertrich  186. 
Besenfeld  338. 
Besselich,  Haas  64. 
Bessungen  220. 
Betteldorf  187. 
Bettemburg  160. 
Bettendorf  167. 
Bettenfeld  190. 
Betzdorf  52.  53. 
Beuel  68.  69.  73. 
Beuggen  366. 
Beul  82. 

Beurener  Thai  320. 
Beurig  161. 
Beutig,  the  321. 
Bewingen  182. 
Bexbach  256. 
Beybachthal,  the  172. 
Biberach  346. 
BiblU  213.  224. 
Bickenbach  226.  228. 
Bickensohl  333.   . 
Biebermnhle  262. 
Biebernheim  106. 
Biebesheim  213. 
Biebrich  121.  128. 
Bierbach  256. 
Bildhauerhof  288. 
Bildstock  TunneLthe  154. 
Billings  228. 
Bilstein  293. 
Binau  240. 

Blndersbach,  the  262. 
Bingen  115.  125. 
Bingerbriick  115.  125. 
Binger  Loch,  the  114. 
Bingert  160. 
— ,  the  135. 
Bins  en  was  en,  the  822. 
Birgeler  Kopf,  the  57. 
Birkenau  226.  229. 
Birkenfeld  (Nahe)  153. 
—  (near  Pforzheim)  306. 
Birkenhbrdt  264. 
Birkenkopf,  the  319. 
Birresborn  183. 
Birten  46. 
Biachheim  261. 


Bischofsheim  (Ala&ee) 
287. 

—  (Hessen)  218.  224. 
Bischofetein  172. 
Bischweiler  254. 
Bitburg  184. 

Bitsch  273. 
Bitschweiler  304. 
Black  Forest,  the  336. 
Blankenberg  53. 
Blankenheim  181. 
Blasiwald  356. 
Blauen,  the  364. 
Bleckhausen  189. 
Bleidenberg,  the  171. 
Bleidenstadt  130. 
Blens  12. 
Bleybach  361. 
Bleyberg  1.  3.  10. 
Blies,  the  273. 
Bliesbriicken  273. 
Blieskastel  256. 
Blochereck,  the  341. 
Bloss,  the  289. 
Blucherthal,  the  111. 
Blumslay,  the  170. 
Rluttenberg,  the  293. 
Bockelheim,  ruins  150. 
Bockenheim  (Alsace)  277. 

—  (near  Frankfort)    54. 
214. 

—  (Palatinate)  248. 
Bodendorf  82. 
Bodenheim  243. 
Bodingen,  monast.  52. 
Boes  172. 

Bohl  260. 
Bolchen  156. 
Bollendorf  167. 
Bbllenthal,  the  357. 
Bollweiler  280. 
Bonames  54. 
Bondorf  69. 
Bonbomme,  Le  297. 
— ,  Col  du  297. 
Bonn  71. 

Boosenburg,  the  117. 
Boppard  102.  124. 
Borcette  10. 
Born  167. 
Bornhofen  103. 
Borrstadt  248. 
Bos,  the  120.  118. 
Botzberg,  the  366. 
Bous  155.  160. 
Boyneburg  149. 
Bramont,  Col  de  302. 
Brandau  228. 
Brandenberger  Thai,  the 

366.  367. 
Brandenburg,  rain  167. 
Braubach  101.  127.  195. 
Braunchesberg,  the  130. 


INDEX. 


371 


Brauneberg,  the  179. 
Braunfels  198. 
Braunsburg,  the  63. 
Brauweiler  13. 
Brege,  the  361. 
Breiberg,  the  81. 
Breisgau,  the  329.  328. 
Breitenbach  292.  302. 
Breitenstein,  rain  256. 
Bremm  174. 
Brend,  the  351. 
Brenden  361. 
Brennende  Berg,  the  164. 
Brennet  368. 
Brensbach  230. 
Bresse,  La  302. 
Bressoir,  the  293. 
Bretzenheim  146, 
Breuberg,  ruin  230. 
Breusch,  the  284. 
Brey  101. 
Briedel  177. 
Briedern  174. 
Brigach,  the  348. 
Brigittenschloss,  the  326. 
Brodenbach  171. 
Broel,  the  52. 
Brohl  61.  65. 
Brohlbach,  the  61.  88. 
Brohlthal,  the  87. 
Bromberg,  the  333. 
Bromserburg,  the  117. 
Broque,  La  284. 
Brothers,  the  106. 
Brotzingen  306. 
Bruchhof57. 
Brachmtilbach  256. 
Bruchsal  306.  243. 
Bruchweiler  263. 
Brtick  86. 
Bruckhaus  362. 
Brucklerain,  the  350. 
Brudeldreis,  the  183. 
Bruderhalde,  the  355. 
Bradermattfel8en,the363. 
Briihl  67. 
Briillngen  277. 
Brumath  274. 
Brunadern  361. 
Brunhildenbett,  the  218. 
Brunnenburg  196. 
Brussels  1. 
Bruttig  174. 
Bruville  158. 
Bubenhauser  Hohe.  the 

121.  128. 
Buchenbach  353. 
Biichenbeuren  152. 
Buchholz  (Boppard)  103. 

—  (in  the  Elzthal)  352. 

—  (near    Manderscheid) 

Bnchsweiler  274, 


Budenheim  126. 
Biiderich,  island  16. 
Biidesheim  116.  247. 
Buggingen  336. 
Buhl  (near  Baden)  326. 

—  (near  Gebweiler)  303. 
Buhlbach  339. 
Buhlerthal,  the  325. 
Buir  12. 
Bulach  313. 
Bullay  114. 
Bunte  Kuh.  the  84. 
Burbach  53. 
— ,  waterfall  346. 
Burg  (Black  Forest)  353. 

—  (on  the  Moselle)  177. 
Burgberg  12. 
Burgbrohl  88. 
Biirgeln  364. 

fiurgen  172. 
Burghof,  the  77. 
Burnhaupt  305. 
Biirresheim  87. 
Biirscheid  167.  169.  176. 
Biirstadt  213.  226. 
Burtscheid  10. 
Bussang  305. 
— ,  the  Col  de  304. 
Bust  274. 

Buttenstein  Falls,the  342. 
Butzbach  53. 

Osecilienberg,  the  320. 
Calcar  47. 
Galcum  16. 
Gall  181. 
Calmbach  307. 
Galmond,  the  175. 
Calw  326. 
Camberg  220. 
Camillenberg,  the  64. 
Camp  103.  127. 
Capellen  98.  12.  124. 
Carden  173. 
Carlingen  155. 
Carlsberg,  castle  256. 
Carlsburg,  chateau  111. 
Carlsdorf  306. 
Carlshalle  148. 
Carlshohe  10. 
Carlsruhe  307. 
Cascade  de  la  Serva  285, 
Casel  180. 

Casselburg,  the  182.  183. 
Castel    (near  Mayence) 

137.  214. 
Castell   (near   Saarburg) 

161. 
Cat,  the,  ruin  106. 
Caub  108.  127. 
Cernay  303. 
Champ  du  Feu  291. 
Chatel  158. 


Chatenois  292. 
Chatte  Pendue,  the  295. 
Chaudfontaine  3. 
Chausseehaus,  the  (near 

Wiesbaden)  136.  129. 

130. 
Chenee  3. 
Chevremont  282. 
Christophsthal  339. 
Clarenthal  136.  129. 
Clausen  180. 
Clef,  the  161. 
Clemenskapelle,  the  113. 
Clerf  or 
Clervaux  169. 
Cleve  46. 
Climont,  the  283. 
Clotten  173. 
Cliisserath  180. 
Cobern  171. 
Coblenz  90. 

Coblenzer  Forsthaus  195. 
Cochem  173. 
Gochemer  Berg,  the  173. 
Collet,  the  301. 
Colmar  278. 
Colmar-Berg  169. 
Cologne  22. 

Apostles'*  Church  40. 

Appellhofgebaude  35. 

Aquarium  44. 

Archiepisc.  Museum 
31. 

—  Palace  42. 

Arresthaus  42. 

Arsenal  35. 

Bayenthurm  43. 

Casino  39. 

Cathedral  26. 

Cemetery  44. 

Commandant's    House 
40. 

Flora  Garden  44. 

Fortifications  44. 

Freihafen  43. 

Gewerbe-Schule  40. 

Governm.  Buildings  35. 

Guard-house  35. 

Giirzenich,  the  37. 

Gymnasium  39.  40.. 

Harbour  43. 

Hochstrasse  35. 

Hospital  40. 

Iron  Bridge  31. 

Jabacb/s  House  39. 

Jesuits'  Church  42. 

Konigin-Augusta-Pas- 
sage  35. 

Library,  Civic  36. 

— ,  Gymnasium  35. 

Marien-Hospital  43. 

Mariensaule  42. 

Mauritius  Church  40. 

24* 


372 


INDEX. 


Cologne : 
Minorites,    Church 

the  35. 
Museum  32. 
Neumarkt  40. 
Rathhaus  36. 
Romerthurm  36.  41. 
Rubens's  House  39. 
St.  Andreas  43. 

—  Cascilia  40. 

—  Cunibert  43. 

—  George  39. 

—  Gereon  41. 

—  Maria  im  Capitol  38. 

—  Martin  37. 

—  Pantaleon  41. 

—  Peter  39. 

—  Severin  39. 

—  Ursula  42. 
Statue  of  Fred.  Will. 

m.  33. 
Fred.  Will.   IV. 

32. 

William  I.  32. 

Bismarck  39. 

Synagogue  35. 
Templars'  Lodge  39. 
Theatres  35.  23. 
Town  Garden  44. 

—  Wall  43. 
Trankgassenthor  43. 
Trinity  Church  39. 
Turnhalle  41. 
Waterworks  41. 
Wolkenburg.  the  40. 
Zoolog.  Garden  43. 

Colombey  159. 
Concordia  (foundry)  64. 
Cond  173. 


Conderthal,  the  170. 
Constance  368. 
Conz  161. 
Cordel  184. 
Corneliinunster  11. 
Corneshiitte  190. 
Corny  160. 
Corray  177. 
Corsika  229. 
Cottenheim  87. 
Courcelles-sur-Nied  155. 
Cramberg   Tunnel,   the 

196. 
Cranenburg  47. 
Craufthal  274. 
Crefeld  45. 
Crbff  178. 
Cronberg  217. 
Croneburg  149. 
Cronthal  218. 
Cuchenheim  181. 
Cues  179. 
Currenberg  87. 
Curve  215. 


Daaren-See,  the  298. 
of|Dachsen  367. 

Dachsenhausen  101. 
Dachskopf,  the  101. 
Dachstein  284. 
Dagsburg,  the  (near 

Zabern)  276. 
Dagsburg,  the  (near 

Egisheim)  280. 
Dahn  263. 
Dalheim  48. 
Dambach  287. 
Dambachthal,  the  135. 
Dammerkirch  282. 
Dannemarie  282. 
Dannenfels  248. 
Danube,  the  349.  350. 
Darmstadt  220. 
Dattenberg  60. 
Dauchstein,  ruin  240. 
Daun  187. 

Dauner  Leyen,  the  188. 
—  Maare,  the  188. 
Dausenau  195. 
Dechenhohle,  the  52. 
Deidesheim  250. 
D&emont  282. 
Delsberg  282. 
Densborn  183. 
Denzlingen  328. 
Derkum  181. 
Dernau  84. 
Dettweiler  274. 
Detsem  180. 
Deurenburg,  ruin  104. 
Deutsch-Rumbach  292. 
Deuta  24.  44.  50. 
Devant-les-Ponts  160. 
Devil's  Ladder,  the  (near 

Lorch)  112. 

(near  Neustadt)  255. 

Dhaun  152. 
Dhiin,  the  21. 
Dieblich  171. 
Diedenbergen  214. 
Diedenhofen  160. 
Diedesfeld  252. 
Diedesheim  240. 
Diedolshausen  297. 
Diekirch  167. 
Dielkirchen  150. 
Diemerstein  255. 
Dietenmiihle,  the  135. 
Dietkirchen  198. 
Diets  197. 
Dieulouard  160. 
Dill,  the  53.  199. 
Dillenburg  53. 
Dillingen  161. 
Dilsberg,  castle  239. 
Dinglingen  327. 
Dinkholder    Brunnen 

101. 


Dinslaken  16. 
Disibodenberg  151. 
Distelbach  111. 
DistelbergerHof,  the  170. 
Dobel,  the  324. 
Dockweiler  182.  187. 
Dogern  367. 
Dolhain  3. 
Dollendorf  68.  80. 
Dollerthal,  the  306. 
Dommeldange  169. 
Donatusberg  59. 
Donaueschingen  349. 
Donnersberg,  the  24S. 
Donon,  the  285. 
Dorlisheim  286. 
Dormagen  44. 
Dornach  281.  303. 
Dornberg  213.  224. 
Dornburg,  Mt.  198. 
Dornheim  213. 
Dortelweil  54. 
Dossenheim  274. 
Dottelbach  344. 
Dottendorfer  H6he,the75. 
Drachenfels,  castle  78. 
Drachenstein.  the  255. 
Draischberg  66. 
Drei  Aehren  299. 
Dreien-Egisheim  280. 
Dreien-Exen,the  280.300. 
Drei  -  Furstenstein,  the 

340. 
Dreihof  261. 
Dreimuhlen  182. 
Dreis  182. 

Dreisam,  the  327. 329. 352. 
Dreisam  Canal  334. 
Dreisen  248. 

Dreiser  Weiher,  the  182. 
Dreistein,  ruin  290. 
Driebergen  14. 
Dromersheim  247. 
Dromm,  the  229. 
Drusenheim  261. 
Drusweiler  252. 
Dudeldorf  184. 
Dudweiler  154. 
Duiaburg  16. 
Duisdorf  181. 
Diimpelfeld  85. 
Duppigheim  284. 
Durbach  327. 
Duren  12. 
Durkheim  249. 
Durlach  306. 
Durre  Maar,  the  189. 
Durscheven  181. 
Dusemond  179. 
Dusenbachthal,  the  295. 
Diisselbach,  the  17. 
Dusseldorf  16. 
Dtisselthal  21. 


INDEX. 


373 


Dutenhofen  53. 
XMittlenheim  284. 
I>yck,  Schloss  48. 

Bberbach  (Alsace)  264. 

—  (Rheingau)  120.  118. 

—  (on  the  Neckar)  239. 
Eberfingen  367. 
TCberhards-Clausen  176. 
Ebernach  174. 
Ebernburg  150. 

— ,  the  149. 
Ebersheim  278. 
Eberstadt  224. 
Eberstein,  castle  323. 
Ebersteinburg  321. 
Ebertsheim  249. 
Ebnet  352. 
Echternach  167. 
Eckardsberg,  the  334. 
Eckirch  293. 
Eckfeld  189. 
Eckle,  the  340. 
Edelfrauengrab,  the  341 
Edenkoben  252. 
Edesheim  252. 
Ediger  174. 
Efringen  335. 
Egisheim  280. 
Ehlenbogenthal,  the  346. 
Ehrang  176.  180.  184. 
Ehrenbreitstein  96. 
Ehrenburg  (Moselle)  171. 
Ehrenfels  114.  127. 
Ehrenthal  (on  the  Rhine) 

104. 
—  (near  Saarbriicken) 

154. 
Ehringshausen  53. 
Eiach,  the  324. 
Eiach-Miihl  324. 
Eibingen  118. 
Eichberg  118.  120. 
Eichelhutte  190. 
Eichemer  See,  the  358. 
Eichhofen  287. 
Eifel,  the  185. 
Eimeldingen  335. 
Eineburg,  the  4. 
Einod  256. 
Einsiedel  224. 
Eisbach,  the  249. 
Eisch,  the  169. 
Eisenbach  256. 
Eiaenberg  249. 
Eisenschmitt  190. 
Eitelsbach  180. 
Eitorf  53. 
Elberfeld  50. 
Elfenmiihle  186. 
Elisabethenhohe,  the 

122.       . 
Elisenhohe,  the  125. 


Ellenz  174. 
Eller  175.  173. 
— ,  Schloss  21. 
-,  the  175. 
Ellerer  Berg,  the  173. 
Elmstein  255. 
Elmsteiner-Thal  255. 
Elsasshausen  253. 
Elsdorf  12. 
Elsenz.  the  239. 
Elten  15.  47. 
Eltville  120.  128. 
Eltviller  Au,  the  121. 
Eltz,  Schloss  172. 
— ,  the  172. 
Elz,  the  240.  327. 
Elzach  351. 
Elzberg,  the  289. 
Elzhof  348. 
Elzthal,  the  351. 
Emberme'nil  277. 
Emmaburg,  the  4.  10. 
Emmendingen  327. 
Emmerich  15. 
Empel  15. 
Ems  191. 
Enchenberg  273. 
Endenich  75. 
Endersburg,  the  186. 
Endertsbach,  the  173. 
Endingen  333. 
Engeholl,  the  106. 
Engelburg,  the  304. 
Engeln  88. 

Engelport,  monast.  173. 
Engelsberg  231. 
Engen  350. 
Engers  64.  70. 
Enkenbach  150. 
Enkirch  177. 
Ennepe,  the  51. 
Ennert,  the  68. 
Ensch  180. 
Ensdorf  160. 
Ensisheim  281. 
Enaival  3. 
Enz,  the  306.  324. 
Enzheim  282. 
Enzklosterle  325.  339. 
Epfig  287. 
Eppelheim  240. 
Eppelsheim  248. 
Eppinghofen  49. 
Eppstein  219.  244. 
Erbach  (Bheingan)  120. 

127. 
—  (Odenwald)  232.  231. 
Erbenheim  220. 
Erden  178. 
Erdenburg,  the  55. 
Erdmannleinhohle ,    the 

369. 
Erdorf  184. 


Erensberg,  the  182. 
Erfelden  213.  224. 
Erfenstein,  ruin  265. 
Erft,  the  12.  HI. 
Erfweiler  263. 
Erkelenz  48. 
Erkrath  51. 
Erlau  230. 
Erlenbach  264. 
-,  the  261. 

Erlenbachthal,  the  354. 
Erlenbad  326. 
Erlenbrugg  354.  355. 
Ernolsheim  274. 
Ernstthal  231. 
Erpel  59.  69. 
Erpeler  Lei,  the  59. 
Erpolzheim  249. 
Erschheimer  Capelle  239. 
Erstein  278. 
Erzingen  367. 
Erzkasten,  the  333. 
Eschbach  262. 
Eschborn  217. 
Eschelbronn  240. 
Eschery  293. 
Eschhofen  198. 
Eschkopf,  the  255. 
Eschweiler  11. 
Eschweiler  Au  11. 
Esemael  2. 
Essen  49. 
Essingen  187. 
Ettelbriick  169. 
Ettenheim  327. 
Ettlingen  313. 
Ettringer-Bellenberg,  the 

87. 
Eulbach  231. 
Eulenkopf,  the  175. 
Euskirchen  181. 

Tachingen  197. 
Fahl  357.  356. 
Fahr  62. 
Fahrnau  358. 
Falkau  361. 
Falkenberg  166. 
Falkenburg  113. 
Falkenlei,  the  186. 
Falkenlust  67. 
Falkensteig  353. 
Falkenstein  (Alsace)  273. 

—  (near  Herrenalb)  324. 

—  (Hollenthal)  353. 

—  (Taunus)  218. 

—  (nearWinnweiler)150. 
Falkensteinerbach,  the 

273. 
Falkensteiner  Thai,  the 

150. 
Fallbach.  the  348. 
Fankel  174. 


374 


INDEX. 


Fanchweiler  274. 
Fauleufirat,  the  364. 
Favorite,  the  323. 
Fecht,  the  299. 
Fegersheim  278. 
Feldberg  (Black  Forest) 
366. 

—  (Taunu8),  the  Great 
218. 

—  (Taunus),    the  Little 
219. 

Feldbergsee,  the  355. 
Feldkirche,  the  62. 
Felleringen  306. 
Felsberg,  the  (Eifel)  187. 

—  (Odenwald)  228. 
Felsen  (Baden),  the  321 
Felsenmeer,  the  228. 
Ferres  180. 
Fetzberg,  ruin  53. 
Filzen  (on  the  Moselle) 

179. 

—  (on  the  Rhine)  102. 127. 
Finnentrop  51. 
Finstingen  277. 
Finthen  143. 
Fischbach  (Nahe  Valley) 

153. 

—  (Nassau)  220. 
Fischbachthal,  the  220. 

230. 
Fischbadle,  lake  301. 
Flacht  197. 

Flaumbachthal,  the  173. 
Fleckertshohe,  the  106. 
Fleckenstein  264. 
Fliessem  184. 
Flomersheim  244. 
Flonheim  247.  150. 
Florsheim  214. 
Fluorn  346. 
Flushing  49. 
Forbach  (Baden)  338. 

—  (Lorraine)  156. 
Formerich,  the  188. 
Fornich  61. 

Forst  250. 
Fouday  285. 
Fraipont,  castle  3. 
Frankenburg,  the   (near 

Aix-la-Chapelle)  10. 
— ,  —  (Alsace)  292. 
Frankeneck  2o5. 
Frankenstein  (Odenwald) 

—  (Palatinate)  255. 
Frankensteiner  Thai  155. 
Frankenthal  244. 
Frankfort  200. 

Anlagen  202. 
Archives  206. 
Ariadneum  206. 
Art  Union  203. 


Frankfort: 
Borse  203. 

Bridges  205.  206.  207. 
Biirgerverein  206. 
Cathedral  205. 
Cemeteries  207.  206. 
Charlemagne's    Statue 

207. 
Conservatorium  205. 
Deutsch  -Ordenshaus 

207. 
Elisabethenschule  203. 
Eschenheimer  Thurm 

206 
Exchange  206. 


Frankfort: 
Salzhaus  204. 
Schiller's      Monument 

203. 
Schone  Aussicht  207. 
Senckenberg     Society 

Stadel  Art  Institute309. 
Steinerne  Hans  206. 
Synagogue  207. 
Theatre  203. 
Thurn  und  Taxis,  Pal. 
of  the  Prince  of  206. 
Zeil  203. 
Zoolog.  Garden  209. 


Exhibition  of  Art  202.  Frankfurter  Forsthaus 


Fahrthor  204. 
Gewerbekasse  203. 
Goethe's  House  203. 

—  Monument  206. 
Goldene  Waage  205. 
Gutenberg's     Monu- 
ment 202. 

Hauptwache  202. 
Haus  Fiirsteneck  206. 

—  Limpurg  204. 

—  sum  Kleinen  Engel 
205. 

Hessian  Monument  206. 
Hochstift  203. 
Hospitals  207. . 
Judengasse  207. 
Justitia  Fountain  204. 
Kaiser-Strasse  202. 
Katharinenkirche  208. 
Kunstgewerbe  -  Verein 

202. 
Eunstverein  206. 
Leinwandhaus  206. 
Library  207. 
Liebfrauenkirche  203. 
Lunatic  Asylum  209. 
Luther's  Statue  206. 
Magi,Church  of  the  207. 
Market  206. 
Market  Hall  207. 
Museum,  Historical 

206. 
Kicolaikirche  204. 
Opera  House  209. 
Palm  Garden  209. 
Panorama  209. 
Picture  Gallery,  Muni 

cipal  206. 
Rententhurm  204. 
Romer  203. 
Romerberg  204. 
Rossmarkt  202. 
Saalbau  203. 
Saalhof  205. 


219. 
Frankisch  -  Crumbach 

230. 
Franzosenkopf,  the  125. 
Frauenalb  324. 
Frauenstein  121. 
Fraulautern  161. 
Freiburg  328. 
Freiersbach  344. 
Freiersthal,  the  344. 
Freiheit,  the  230. 
Freinsheim  249. 
Fre'land  297. 
Fremersberg,  the  321. 
Frenz  12. 
Frescati  159. 

Freudenburg,  castle  161. 
Freudenstadt  339. 
Friedberg  54. 
Friedrichsberg,  the  70. 
Friedrichsfeld  227. 
Friedrichsthal    (Black 

Forest)  339. 
—  (Nahe)  154. 
Friedrich-Wilhelms- 

Hiitte  68. 
Friesenheim  327. 
Frohnschwand  361. 
Froschweiler  253. 
Frouard  160. 
Frucht  101.  195. 
Fruchtspeicher,  ruin  907. 
Fuchstanz  219. 
Fiirstenau,  Schloss  231. 
Fiirstenberg,  ruin  ill. 
Furs  tenlager,  the  225. 226. 
Furth  229. 
Furtwangen  351. 
Fustenburg,  ruin  ill. 

Gtadernheim  229. 
Gaggenau  314. 
Gaimuhle  232. 
Gaisbach  320. 


St.  Leonard's  church   'Gallenbach  321. 

206.  Gallenwarte,  the  214. 

St.  Paul's  church  203.  Galz,  the  299. 


INDEX. 


375 


Gambsheim  261. 
Grammelsbacher  Thai, the 

232. 
Oans,  the  149. 
Oansehals,  the  89. 
Oarbenheim  199. 
Oartenfeld  248. 
Gaachpels  Hof  355. 
Gau-Algesheim  125. 
Gaubickelheim  247. 
Gaugrehweiler  150. 
Gaulsheim  118.  125. 
Gauodernheim  248. 
Gausbach  338. 
Gebuck,  the  118. 
Gebweiler  308. 
Gebweiler  Belch  en',  the 

304. 
Gees  183. 

Geiersburg,  the  250. 
Geilenkirchen  47. 
Geilnau  196. 
Geisbach  338. 
Geisberg,  the  79.  81. 

—  (Alsace)  253. 

—  (near  Heidelberg)  238. 
Geisenberg  282. 
Geisenheim  118.  127. 
Geishausen  304. 
Geisingen  350. 
Geispolsheim  278. 
Geisweid  51. 
Geldern  46. 
Gelsdorf  181. 
Gemiinden  152.  188. 
Gengenbach  345. 
Gensingen  247. 
Georgenborn  129. 
Ge*rardmer  301. 
German  National  Monu- 
ment (Niederwald)  123. 

Germania  Foundry  64. 
Germersheim  260. 
Gernsbach  322. 
Gernshelm  213. 
Geroldsau  320. 
Geroldseck  275. 
Geroldatein  112.  130. 
Gerolstein  183. 
Gerresheim  51. 
Gersbach  347. 
Gersheim-Walsheim  256. 
Gersprenz  230. 
-,  the  230. 
Gertweiler  287. 
Gevelsberg  51. 
Gewenheim  305. 
Giessen  53. 
Gillenfeld  189. 
Gimmeldingen  250. 
Girbaden  288. 
Girsberg  295. 
Gladbach,  Bergisch-  21. 


Gladbach,  Mimchen-  48. 
Glan  256. 
-,  the  151.  256. 
Glashiitte  326. 
Glaswaldsee,  the  346. 
Gleiberg,  ruin  53. 
Gleisweiler  252. 
Goch  46. 

Goddelau  213.  224. 
Godenhaus  60. 
Godesberg  66.  55. 
— ,  castle  66.  55. 
Godramstein  261. 
Goebelsmiihle  169. 
Goersdorf  253. 
Gohl,  the  4. 
Gohl- Viaduct  10. 
Goldbach  304. 
Goldene  Meil\  the  66. 82. 
Goldenfels,  castle  111. 
Goldschmidfs    Foundry 

101. 
Goldstein  213. 
Gollheim  248. 
Gondorf  171. 
Gonsenheim  248. 
Gorxheim  226. 
Gorze  157. 
Gossersweiler  263. 
Gottenheim  334. 
Gottesau  313. 
Gottmadingen  368. 
Gottschlagthal,  the  341 
Gouda  14. 
Goxweiler  287. 
Graach  179. 

Graben-Neudorf  243.306. 
Grafenberg,  the  121. 
Grafenstaden  277. 
Grafenwerth,  island  56. 

69. 
Grafinburg,  the  178. 
Grande  Cdte,  the  284. 
Grandfontaine  285. 
Granges,  Valine  de  301. 
Grasellenbach  229. 
Graupenwerth,    island 

55. 
Grau-Rheindorf  55. 
Gravelotte  158. 
Greiffenstein  275. 
Grendelbruch  289. 
Grenzach  366. 
Grenzhausen  71. 
Gressenich  11. 
G reason,  the  305. 
Gressweiler  284. 
Grevenberg  11. 
Grevenbroich  12. 
Grevenbriick  51. 
Grevenhausen  255. 
Griesbach  344. 
Griesheim  219,  224, 


Griessen  367. 
Grisbachthal,  the  350. 
Grobach,  the  320. 
Groesbeck  47. 
Gross-Bieberau  230. 
Grossenbaum  16. 
Grossgerau  213.  224. 
Gross-Geroldseck  275. 
Gross-Hettingen  160. 
Gross-Karben  54. 
Grosslangenberg  305. 
Gross-Laufenburg  366. 
Gross-Litgen  190. 
Gross-Sachsen  227. 
Grossthal,  the  300. 
Grossvaterstuhl ,  the  77. 
Grumbach  230. 
Griindenbach,  the  342. 
Grtine,  the  52. 
Griinhaus  180. 
Griinhutte  325. 
Griinstadt  249. 
Griirmannshohle,  the  52. 
Gschwand  357. 
Gudenauer  Thai,  the  66. 
Giildenbach,  the  111. 
Gills  170. 

Gumpelscheuer  325. 
Gundersheim  248. 
Gundershofen  273. 
Giinsbach  300. 
Gunstett  254. 
Guntersblum  244. 
Giinthersthal  333. 
— ,  the  333. 

Gunzenbachthal,  the  319. 
Gutach  347.  352. 
— ,  river  347.  354. 
Gutenbach  351. 
Gutenburg  362. 
Gutenfels,  castle  108. 
Gutleithof  253. 

Haagen  358. 
Haan  50. 

Haanenburg,  the  69. 
Haardt  51. 

—  (Palatinate)  251. 
Haardter  Hofe ,  the  176. 
Haardt  Mts.,  the  251. 
Haberacker  276. 
Habonvnie  158. 
Habsheim  282. 
Hachimette  297. 
Hadamar  198. 
Hagelschloss  290. 
Hagen  51. 

Hagenau  254. 
Hagenbach  261. 
Hagenbriicke  341. 
Hagendingen  160. 
Hager  Hof,  the  09. 

—  Htttte,  the  304, 


376 


INDEX. 


Hager  Koppelchen,  the 

Hahn  130. 

Hahnenbach,  the  152. 
Hahnenberg,  the  291. 
Hahnhof,  the  63. 
Hahnkopf,  the  198. 
Hahnatatten  128.  197. 
Haidenmiihle  361. 
Haiger  53. 
Hain  88. 

Hainaaulen,  the  231. 
Halbmeil  346. 
Halgenstein,  the  287. 
Hallberg,  the  155. 
Hallgarten  119.  118. 
Haltingen  335. 
Hambach  277. 
Hambacher  Schloss  251. 
Hammerstein  61.  69. 
Handschuchsheim  227. 
Hanselberg,  the  119. 
Hanweiler  274. 
Happacb  357. 
Hardt,  An  der  276. 
Harff  12. 

Harmersbach,  the  345. 
Harpolinger  Schloss  366. 
Hartenburg  260. 
Hartwald,  the  282. 
Harxheim  248. 
Hasel  359. 

Haaelbach  Valley  106. 
Hasenbiihl,  the  248. 
Haslach  345.  351. 
Has larh thai,  the  285. 
Haspe  51. 
Hassloch  250. 
Hattenheim  119.  127. 
Hattersheim  214. 
Hattmatt  274. 
Hat  z  en  port  172. 
Hauenstein  (Baden)  367. 

—  (Palatinate)  261.  263. 
Hauptstuhl  256. 
Hausbaden  363. 
Hausach  345. 

Hausen  (Baden)  358. 

—  (Nassau)  112. 

—  (Palatinate)  250. 

—  (Roer  Valley)  12. 
Hausern  (Black  Forest) 

360. 

—  (near  Egisheim)  280. 
Hantes  Ghaumes  296. 
Hantes  Hnttes  298. 
Hecklingen  327. 
Heddesbach  229. 
Heddesdorf  63. 
Heerdt  45. 

Heerweg,  the  72. 
Heidburg,  the  345. 
Heidelberg  232. 


Heidenberg,  the  132. 
Heidenkamm  69. 
Heidenmauer,  the  (Durk 

heim)  250. 
— ,  —  (Odilienberg)  290. 
— ,  —  (Wiesbaden)  132. 
Heidenoord  15. 
Heidenstadt  274. 
Heidenthurm    (near 

Treves)  167. 
Heidesheim  126. 
Heilbrunnen,  the  88. 
Heilig,  the  57. 
Heiligenberg,  chat.  228. 
— ,  hill  239. 
Heiligenstein  (Vosges) 

289. 
Heiligenstein  (near 

Speyer)  260. 
Heilig-Kreuz    125.    292. 

300. 
Heiligkreuzsteinach  230. 
Heimbach  (near  Engers) 

70. 

—  (Nahe)  153. 

—  (Roer  Valley)  12. 
Heimburg,  ruin  113. 
Heimersheim  82. 
Heisterbach  80.  68. 
Heitersheim  335. 
Helenenberg,  the  66. 
Helfenstein  96. 
Hellenthal  177. 
Heller,  the  53. 
Helmstadt  240. 
Hemingen  277. 
Hemmerich,  the  76. 
Hemmersbach  12. 
Hemmessem  83. 
Heraabach  226. 
Hengebach  12. 
Hennef  52. 
Heppenheim  226. 
Heppingen  82. 
Herbesthal  3. 
Herblingen  368. 
Herbolzheim  327. 
Herborn  53. 
Herchen  53. 
Herchenberg  88. 
Herdera  332. 
Herdorf  53. 
Hergenrad  4. 
Hering  230. 
Herlisheim  261.  280. 
Hermannshutte  64. 
Hermersberg,  the  343. 
Hermeskeil  153. 
Hernsheim  247. 
Herny  155. 
Herrenalb  324. 
Herrenberg,  the  302. 
Herrenschwand  359. 


Herrenwies  338. 
Herrischried  366. 
Hersbach  284. 
Herschwiesen  103. 
Herthen  366. 
Herzogenrath  47. 
Heraogshorn,  the  336. 
Hesbaye,  the  2. 
Heslich  322. 
Hetzbach  232. 
Hetzerath  176. 
Heycot  293. 
Heywang  290. 
HickengTund,  the  53. 
Hillesheim  181. 
Hillinstein  96. 
Hilpertsau  337. 
Himbachel  Viaduct  232. 
Himmelreich,  the  (Black 

Forest)  353. 
— ,  —  (Moselle)  179. 
Himmerod  190. 
Hinterhaus  (Riidesheim) 

117. 
Hinter-Langenbach  339. 
Hinter-Seebach  340. 
Hinterweidenthal  263. 
Hinter-Zarten  354. 
Hirsau  325. 
Hirschberg,  the  81. 
Hirschhorn  229.  299. 
Hirschsprung,  the  353. 
Hirschthal  264. 
Hirsingen  282. 
Hirzenach  104. 
Hochburg,  ruin  327. 
Hochdahl  51. 
Hochenschwand  360. 
Hochfeld  45.  49. 
— ,  the  291. 
Hochfelden  274. 
Hochheim  214. 
Hochkopf,  the  359. 
Hochkreus,  the  67. 
Hoch-Neukirch  11. 
Hochsimmer.  the  87. 
Hochspeyer  150.  255. 
Hocbspeyerbach,  the  255. 
Hochst  (Odenwald)  230. 
—  (Taunue)  214. 
Hochstadt  261. 
Hochstatten  228. 
Hochstatter  Thai  226. 
Hochwald,  the  12. 
Hochwiesenhof  £25. 
Hockenheim  243. 
Hofen  307. 
Hoffen  253. 

Hofheim  219.  224.  226. 
Hofheimer  Capelle.   the 

219.  214. 
Hofstetten  345.  351. 
Hoh-Barr  275. 


INDEX. 


377 


Hohe  Acht,  the  86. 
Hobe   Kandel,   the  362. 
Hobe  Lei,  the  196. 
Hohe  Hark,  the  219. 
Hohenack,   Grosser  299. 
— ,  Kleiner  299. 
Hohenbaden,  castle  321. 
Hohenburg,  the  264. 
Hobeneck,  the  301. 
Hohen-Egisheim  280. 

Hohenfels  187. 
Hohengeroldseck  346. 
Hohen-Konigsburg  294. 

Hohenlandsberg300.  280. 
Hohen-Rappoltstein  296. 

Hohenroder  Schloss,  the 
326. 

Hohenstein,  the  229. 

— ,  ruin  130.  197. 

Hohensulzen  248. 

Hohen-Syburg  61. 

Hohentwiel,  the  368. 

Hohe  Venn,  the  11. 

Hohe  Wurzel,   the  130. 

Hohlenfels  197. 

Hohloh,  the  326.  337. 

Hobneck,  ruin  113. 

Hbhr  71. 

Hohwald  291. 

Hollenfels  169. 

Hollenhaken,  the  366. 

Hollenpass,  the  363. 

Hollensteig,  the  363. 

Holzheim  282. 

Holzmaar,  the  189. 

Holzstoss,  the  63. 

Holzwalder  Hohe,the344. 

Homberg  49. . 

Homburg,  Baths  216. 

—  (Palatinate)  266. 

Honnef  69.  66.  80. 

Honnerath  182. 

Hbnningen  60.  69.  86. 

Hontheim  186. 

Hoppengarten  63. 

Horchheim  96.  126. 

Hordt  264. 

Horheim  367. 

Horn,  the(AhrValley)85. 

Hornberg  347. 

Horngraben,  the  190. 

Hornisgrinde.  the  340. 

Hornle,  the  333. 

Hornleberg  361. 

Hornsee,  the  326. 

Horrem  12. 

Horremer  Burg,  12. 

Horrweiler  247. 

Hottingen  366. 

Hub,  the  326. 

Hub,  Auf  der  276. 

Hubacker  343. 

Huckingen  160. 


Hugstein  308. 
Hugstetten'334. 
Hiihnerberg,  the  106. 
Hummerich,  the  Plaidter 

62. 
Hunaweier  296. 
Hundem-Thal  61. 
Hundlingen  274. 
Hundsbach  263. 
Hundseck,  the  338. 
Hungrige  Wolf,  the  HI. 
Hiiningen  282. 
Hunnenring,  the  163. 
Hunncnsiiulen ,  the  231. 
Hunsriick,  the  162. 
Hurtgen  12. 
Hiittenheim  306. 
Huttenthal,  the  149. 
Hiittingen  184. 
Hutzenbach  338. 

Ibach  343. 
Iben  160.  248. 
Idar  163. 

Idarbach,  the  163. 
Idstein  220. 
Iffezheim  316. 
Igel  167. 
Iggelheim  260. 
Igney-Avricourt  277. 
Igstadt  220. 
Ihringen  333.  334. 
Ill,  the  266.  282. 
Illenau  326. 
Illfurt  282. 
Illkirch  277. 
Immendingen  360. 
Immeneich  361. 
Inde,  the  11. 
Ingelheim  126. 
Ingelheimer  Au  122. 
Ingweiler  274. 
Insel  300. 
Insheim  262. 
Irlich  62. 

Isenachthal,  the  249. 
Isenburg,  castle  (Alsace) 

280. 
— ,  —  (Sayn  Valley)  70. 
Isenheim,  monast.  303. 
Iserlohn  62. 
Issel  176.  180. 
Isteiner  Klotz,  the  336. 
Itterbach,  the  232. 

Jacobsberger  Hof  102. 
Jagdhaus   (near   Baden) 

Jagdschloss  (near  Ass- 
mannshausen)  123. 

Jagerhauschen  (near 
Freiburg)  332. 

Jagerhorn  117. 


Jagerthal  273. 
Jesuitenhof  66. 
Jockgrim  261. 
Johannisberg,  Dorf  119. 
— ,  Schloss  118. 

—  im  Grund  119. 

—  CNahe  Valley)  152. 
Josephsberg  332. 
Josephshof  179. 
Jossa,  ruin  226. 
Jouy-aux-Arches  159. 
Jugenheim  225.  228. 
Julich  or  Juliers  12. 
Junkerath  181. 

Kabel  51. 
Kaferthal  213. 
Kahle  Wasen,  the  302. 
Kailbach  232. 
Kaimt  177. 

Kaiserberg,  the  16.  59. 
Kaiserburg,  ruin  296. 
Kaiserslautern  265. 
Kaiserstuhl,  the  333. 

—  (near  Heidelberg)  238. 
Kaiserswerth  21. 
Kaiser  Wilhelm  Tunnel 

173. 
Kalberhutte  292. 
Kalenborner  Hohe  181. 
Kalk  23. 
Kalkofen  196. 
Kalmit,  the  262. 
Kalscheuren  67.  181. 
Kalsmunt,  ruin  199. 
Kaltenbach  261. 
Kaltenborn  85. 
Kaltenbronn  325.  337. 
Kaltenbrunner-Thal  251. 
Kaltenengers  64. 
KammerbergerMuhle.the 

112. 
Kammerforst  117. 
Kandel,  the  Hohe  362. 
Kander,  the  336. 
Kandern  364. 
Kapellen  262. 
Kappele,  the  324. 
Kappeler  Thai  326.  341. 
Kappelrodeck  341. 
Kappel-Windeck  326. 
Kapsweyer  263. 
Karlssprung  276. 
Karmelenberg,  the  64. 
Karthaus  161.  167.  169. 
Karthause,  the  94. 
Kasacker  364. 
Kasbach  59. 
Kasbachthal  60. 
Kaskeller  (near  Bertrich) 

186. 
Kastanienberg ,  the  250. 
Kastelburg,  ruin  362. 


378 


INDEX. 


Kaatellaun  162. 
Katenea  171. 
Katz,  the,  ruin  106. 
Katzenbuckel,  the  289. 
Katzenloch,  the  158. 
Katzenstein,  the  286. 
Kautenbach  109.  178. 
Kautenbachthal,  the  178. 
Kauzenberg,  the  148. 
Kaysersberg  296. 
Kehl  826. 

Kellerskopf,  the  186. 
Kelsterbach  213. 
Keltenbach,  the  162. 
Kemmenau  195. 
Kemmenauer  Hohe  194. 
Kempen  46. 
Kemperhof  170. 
Kempten  118.  247. 
Rennfus  186. 
Kentheim  325. 
Kenzingen  327. 
Kerpen  182. 
Kertoff  301. 
Reskastel  277. 
Kesselheim  64. 
Kesselinger-Thal  86. 
Ressenich  75. 
Eesten  179. 
Kestenholz  292. 
Restert  127.  104. 
Kettenheim  248. 
Kevelaer  46. 
Kiedrich  121. 
Rienzheim  296. 
Kierberg  181. 
Kilpenstrasse,  the  361. 
Kindel  178. 
Kinderbeuren  176. 
Kindsbach  256. 
Rinheim  178. 
Kinzheim  292. 
Kinzig,  the  326.  346. 
Kippenheim  327. 
Kirchberg  162.  305. 
Kirchheim  (Alsace)  286. 
—  an  der  Eck  249. 
Kirchheimbolanden  248. 
Rirchlei  179. 
Kirchweiler  187. 
Kirchzarten  352. 
Kirmutscheid  182. 
Kim  152. 
Kirnach  349. 
Kirnbach  345. 
Kirneckthal,  the  287. 
Kirsch  180. 
Kielau  306. 
Klararuh,  the  338. 
Klause,  the  119. 
Klausenmiihle  361. 
Kleef  46. 
Klein-Basel  336. 


Klein-Blittersdorf  274. 
Kleine  Kyll,   the   189. 

190. 
Kleinenbroich  48. 
Rlein-Geroldseck  275. 
Rlein-Heubach  231. 
Kleinkema  335. 
Kleinlangenberg  305. 
Rlein-Laufenburg  366. 
Rlein-Rederchingen  273. 
Kleinthal,  the  301. 
Rleinwallstadt  231. 
Klein-Winterheim  248. 
Rlemmbach,  the  835.363. 
Rlingenberg  231. 
Klingenthal  289. 
Klopp,  castle  115. 
Rlosterberg  320. 
Rlosterle,  the  346. 
Rlosterrath  47. 
Rnechtsteden,  abbey  44. 
Kniebis,  the  343.  339. 
Kniebis  Baths    the  342. 
Knielingen  313. 
Rnoringen  252. 
Kochern  155. 
Kockelsberg  166. 
Kogenheim  278. 
Rohlhof,  the  238. 
Eohlscheid  47. 
Rollnau  352. 
Kolmbach  229. 
Kondelwald,  the  176. 
Rongernheim  248. 
Eonig  230. 
Konig,  Mt.  175. 
Ronigsbach  306. 
Konigsdorf  13. 
Ronigsfeld  349. 
Ronigshofen  (Alsaee)277. 

326. 

—  (Palatinate)  250. 
Ronigsmachern  169. 
Ronigsmiihle  (near  Neu 

stadt)  251. 
Ronigsstuhl    (near   Hei- 
delberg) 238. 

—  (near  Alzey)  248. 

—  (near  Rhense)  100. 
Konigstein  (Taunus)  218. 
Konigswart  339. 
Konigswinter  76.  55.  68. 
Koppenstein  152. 
Kork  326. 

Korretsberg,  the  86. 
Kottenforst  181. 
Kovenich  177. 
Kowerich  186. 
Krahberg,  the  232. 
Krahnenberg,  the  61. 
Kranichstein  224. 
Kraus,  the  84. 
Kreuzau  12. 


Krenzberg   (Ahr  Valley) 
85. 

—  (near  Bonn)  75. 
Kreuznach  146. 
Kreuzthal  51. 
Kriftel  219. 
Krippe  60. 
Rronweiler  153. 
Kropsburg,  the  252. 
Krotzingen  334.  365. 
Kruchten  169. 
Kraft  66. 

Krufter  Ofen,  tlie  86. 
Knith  305. 
Kiidinghofen  68. 
Kuhbach  345. 
Kuhkopf,  the  95. 
Ruhr  171. 
Riilzthal,  the  152. 
Ruppenheim  314. 
Riippersteg  21. 
Rusel  256. 
Kusaenberg  367. 
Riitzenhaasen  253. 
Rybfelsen,  the  333. 
Kyll,  the  182.  184. 
Ryllburg  184. 
Kyller  Hohe,  the  182. 
Kyrburg,  rain  152. 

Laach,  Abbey  of  89. 

—  (Ahr  Valley)  84. 
Laacherkopf,  the  89. 
Laacher  Eotheberg,   the 

89. 
Laacher  See,  the  88. 
La  Baroche*297. 
La  Bresse  302. 
La  Broque  284. 
Lac  Blanc,  the  296. 

—  Noir,  the  296. 

—  Vert,  the  298. 
Ladenbnrg  227. 

Lahn,  the  98.  126.  191. 
197. 

Lahneck  100. 

Lahnsteiner  Forsthaos 
101. 

Lahr  327. 

Lambsheim  244. 

Lampertheim  213. 

Landau  252. 

Landberg,  the  226. 

Landen  2. 

Landsberg,  ruin  150. 

Landshut,     castle    (Mo- 
selle) 179. 

Landskron,  castle  (Palat.) 
244. 

— ,  the  (Ahr  Valley)  82. 

Landsperg,  ruin  289. 

Landstuhl  256. 

Landwaaser  347, 


INDEX. 


379 


Langenau,  castle  196. 
Langenbach,  the  339. 
Langenbrand  338. 
Langenbriicken  306. 
Langenfeld  21. 
Langenkandel  313. 
Langenlonsheim  .146. 
Langen-Schwalbach  129. 
Langenaeifen  112. 
Langensulzbach  254. 
Langenthal  229. 
Langenthaler  Kreuz  274 
Langerwehe  12. 
Langgons  63. 
Langmeil  150.  248. 
Langsiir  167. 
La  Poutroye  297. 
La  Bochette  3.  169. 
Lasserg  172. 
Laubbach  94. 
Laubenhain  288 
Laubenheim  243. 
Lauch,  the  278.  302. 
Lauchenkopf,  the  302. 
Lauchthal,  the  303. 
Laudenbach  231. 
Lauf  326. 

Laufen.  Schloss  326. 
Laufenburg  366. 
Laukenmiihle,  the  112. 
Laurenburg  196. 
Lauschhiitte  125. 
Lautenbach  343. 
Lauter.  the  253.  261. 
Lauterbach  347. 
— ,  the  228. 
Lauterecken  151. 
Lauterburg  261. 
Lauterfingen  277. 
Lautzkirchen  256. 
Lax,  the  229. 
Lay  170. 
Leberau  292. 
Leberthal.  the  292. 
Leeheim  213. 
Lehmen  171.  174. 
Lehngericht,  the  Vordere 

and  Hintere  346. 
Leiberg,  the  69. 
Leichlingen  50. 
Leichtweisshohle  136. 
Leidert,  the  230. 
Leiningen  249. 
Leipzig  (near  Metz)  158 
Leiwen  180. 
Lek,  the  14. 
Lembach  253. 
Lemberg  273. 
— ,  the  150. 
Lengfeld  230. 
Lenne,  the  51. 
Lenneberg  248. 
Lenzkirch  854. 


Leopolds-Canal,  the  327. 

Leopoldshohe,  the  (near 

Baden)  319. 

—  (near  Bale)  335. 
Letmathe  51. 
Le  Trooz  3. 
Leubsdorf  60.  69. 
Leudersdorf  182. 
Leak,  the  161. 
Leutesdorf  61.  69. 
Liblar  181. 
Lichtenberg  274. 
— ,  ruin  230. 
Lichtenegg,  ruin  327. 
Lichtenthal  319. 
Liebeneck  102. 
Liebenstein^hateau  103. 
Liebenzell  825. 
Liedberg  48. 
Liege  3. 
Liepvre  292. 
Liepvrette,  the  293. 
Lierbach,  the  342. 
Liers  85. 
Lieser  176.  179. 
— ,  the  179. 187. 189. 190. 
Limburg  (Nassau)  197. 

—  (Belgium)  3. 

—  on  the  Lenne  51. 
Abbey  249. 

,  ruin  334. 
Limersheim  278. 
Lindelbrunner     Schloss 

263. 
Lindenbach  194. 
Lindenfels  229. 
Lindern  47. 
Lingenfeld  260. 
Lingolsheim  277.  282. 
Linkenheim  243. 
Linn  49. 
Lintgen  169. 
Lintthal  302. 
Linz  59.  69. 
Linzerhausen  59. 
Lippe,  the  15. 
Lissingen  183. 
Littenweiler  333. 
Litzig  177. 
Lobsann  253. 
Locherberg  343. 
Lochmuhle  (Ahr  Valley) 

84. 
Loef  171. 

Loffelthal,  the  353. 
Loffenau  323. 
Logelbach  299. 
-j  the  278.  299. 
Lohnberg  198. 
Lohrberg,  the  81. 
Lohrsdorf  82. 
Longemer,  Lake  301. 
Longen  180. 


Longerich  44. 

Longwich  180. 

Lontzen  4. 

Lorch  112.  127. 

Lorchhausen  111.  127. 

Lorentzweiler  169. 

Lorettoberg,  the  332. 

Lorraeh  358. 

Lorsbach  219. 

Lorsbacher  Thai  219. 

Lorsch  226. 

Lorsch  180. 

Losenich  178. 

Louisenthal  160. 

Lousberg,  the  10. 

Louvain  2. 

Lowenbrucken  161.  167. 
169. 

Lowenburg,  the  81. 

Ludwigshafen  242. 

Ludwigshohe.the  (Darm- 
stadt) 224. 

— ,  —  (Lindenfels)  229. 

— ,  Villa  252. 

Liilsdorf  55. 

Luneville  277. 

Lurlei,  the  107. 

Lustadt  261. 

Luttenbach  301. 

Lutterbach  281. 

Luttich  3. 

Luttingeq  367. 

Liitzel  282. 

Liitzelburg  276. 

— ,  ruin  i»9. 

Liitzelhausen  284. 

Lutzelstein  274.  277. 

Lutzerath  186. 

Ltitzer-Thal,  the  173. 

Luxembourg  168. 

Luzieberg,  the  225. 

Kaarsbergen  14. 
Maas,  the  13. 
Machern  179. 
Madenburg,  the  262. 
Hagelbach.  the  288. 
Mahlberg  327. 
Maikammer  252. 
Main,  the  137.  202. 
Hainau.  island  368. 
Mainz  136. 

Maisachthal,  the  343. 
Maischquelle,  the  186. 
Maischwiese,  the  186. 
Maison  Neuve  (near  Metz) 

158. 
Maizieres  160. 
Malancourt  158. 
Malberg,  the  (Ems)  194. 
— ,  chateau  184. 
Malbergskopf,  the  60. 
Malchen,  the  225. 


380 


Mallendar  64. 
Hallingen  169. 
Malmaison  168. 
Malsch  313. 
Malschbach  320. 
Hambach  367. 
Mamer,  the  169. 
Manderscheid  189. 
Mannheim  240. 
Mannweiler  150. 
Manternach  167. 
Manubach  112. 
Marainviller  277. 
Marbach  (Alsace)  280. 

—  (Black  Forest)  349. 

—  (Lorraine)  160. 
Marcobrunnen  119. 
Margarethenhof,  the  79. 
Marienberg    (near   Bop- 

pard)  103. 

Marienborn  248. 

Marienburg,  ruin  177. 

Mariencapelle  (near  Val- 
wig)  174. 

Marienfels  57. 

Marienhausen  123. 

Marienroth,  abbey  171. 

Mariensaule,  the  (near 
Treves)  166. 

Marienstatt  53. 

Marienthal,  monast.  (Al- 
sace) 264. 

— ,  convent  (near  Luxem- 
bourg) 169. 

— ,  ruin  (Ahr  Valley)  84. 

—  (Palatinate)  248. 

—  (Rheingau)  118. 
Markelflngen  368. 
Harkirch  293. 
Marksburg,  castle  101. 
Marlborough,  ruin  169 
Marlenheim  286. 
Marmoutier  286. 
Marnheim  248. 
Mars-la-Tour  159. 
Martinshof  179. 
Martinstein  151. 
Masmiinster  305. 
Massevaux  305. 
Mastricht  49. 
Masure,  Chateau  de  3. 
Matzenheim  276. 
Mauer  240. 
Maulburg  358. 
Maulusmuhle  169. 
Maursmunster  286. 
Maus,  ruin  104. 
Mausaul,  rocks  12. 
Mauseberg,  the  188. 
Maxau  313.  252. 
Maxburg,  the  251. 
Maximiliansau  313. 
Mayen  87. 


INDEX. 


iMayence  136. 
May 


jMayener  Bellenberg  87. 
Mayschoss  84. 
Mechernich  181. 
Meckenheim  181. 
Meckesheim  240. 
Medenbach  220. 
Meerfeld  190. 
MeerfelderMaar,  the  190. 
Meerhoog  15. 
Megingau,  the  172. 
Mehlem  56.  66. 
Mehring  180. 
Meiderich  49. 
Meingau,  the  172. 
Meisengott  285. 
Meisenheim  151. 
Meissenheim(Baden)  327. 
Melibocus,  the  225. 
Melkereikopf,  the  340. 
Melkerhutte,  the  302. 
Mennelstein,  the  290. 
Mensberg,  castle  169. 
Menzenberg,  the  69. 
Menzenschwand  360. 
Merckweiler  253. 
Mercuriusberg ,  the  322. 
Merl  177. 
Merode  12. 
Mersch  169. 
Merten,  monast.  53. 
Mertersdorf  180. 
Mertesheim  249. 
Mertert  167. 
Merxheim  280. 
Merzig  161. 
Merzweiler  273. 
Mesenich  174. 
Mettenheim  244. 
Mettlach  161. 
Mettmabach,  the  361. 
Metz  155. 

Metzeburg,  the  199. 
Metzeral  302. 
Meurthe,  the  160. 
Meuse,  the  3.  13. 
Meysemburg  169. 
Michaelscapelle    (near 

Durlach)  306. 
—  (near  Zabern)  276. 
Michaels-Lei  178. 
Michelau  169. 
Michelstadt  231. 
Mietesheim  273. 
Milspe  51. 
Miltenberg  231. 
Minderberg,  the  59. 
Minder-Litgen  190. 
Minheim  179. 
Minneburg,  rnin  240. 
Mittelbach  Valley  79. 
Mittelbergheim  291. 
Mittelheim  119. 


Mittelthal  339. 

MittelzeU  368. 

Mittlach  302. 

Molkencur,  the  (near  Hei- 
delberg) 238. 

Mollau  305. 

Molsheim  282. 

Mombach  126. 

Mommenheim  274. 

Monchsberg,  the  300. 

Mondorf  55. 

Monreal  87. 

Monrepos  63. 

Monsheim  248. 

Montabec,  the  301. 

Montclair  161. 

Montfort,  Schloss  149. 

Montigny-la-Grange  156. 

Montigny-les-Metz  160. 

Montjoie  12. 

Montois-la-Montagne  158. 

Montreux-Vieux  -282. 

Montroyal  178. 

Monvaux  157. 

Monzel.  the  179. 

Monzelfeld  179. 

Monzingen  151. 

Moosch  304. 

Mooswald,  the  333. 

Morchingen  277. 

Mordnau,  the  327. 

Moresnet  10. 

Morfelden  213. 

Morgenbachthal,  the  113. 

Morlenbach  229. 

Morsbach  11. 

Morsbronn  254. 

Morschheim  248. 

Mosbach(Odenwald)  240. 

—  (Wiesbaden)  128.  121. 

Moscou  (near  Metz)    158. 

Moselkern  172. 

Moselle,  the  170.  65.  90. 
156.  159.  162. 

Moselweis  170. 

Mosenberg,  the  190. 

Mossig,  the  286.  287. 

Mothern  261. 

Moulins-les-Metz  157.158. 

Mouse,  ruin  104. 

Mouse  Tower,    the    114. 

Muchenland  356. 

Muden  173. 

Muggenbrunn  353. 

Muggensturm  313. 

Muhlbach  289.  302. 

Muhlbachthal,  the  196. 

Muhlburg  313. 

Muhlburgthor  313.  307. 

Muhlheim  (on  the  Mo- 
selle) 179. 

Muhlhofen  64. 

Muhlingen  354. 


INDEX. 


381 


Miihlstein,  the  115, 
Muhlthal,  the  103. 
Miilhausen  281. 
Miilheim  (on  the  Rhine) 
21. 

—  (on  the  Ruhr)  49. 
Mullen  195. 
Mullenbach  (Baden)  320. 

—  (Moselle)  173. 
Miillenbild  920. 
Mullheim  335. 
Miimling  230. 
Mummelsee,  the  340. 
Miinchen-Gladbach  48. 
Mdnchweiler  150.  256. 
Munoth  368. 
Munster  am  Stein  148. 
Munster  (island  of  Rei- 

chenau)  368. 

—  (Alsace)  300. 
Munstereifel  181. 
Miinster-Maifeld  172. 
Miinsterthal,  the  (Vosges) 

299. 

—  (Black  Forest)  365. 
Miinz,  the  262. 
Miinz  enberg,  ruin  54. 
Murbach  303. 

Hurg  366. 

— ,  the  314.  823.  337. 
Murgthal,  the  337.  314. 
Miirlenbach  183. 
Mussbach  250. 
Miistert  179. 
Mutterslehen  359. 
Hutterstadt  250. 
Hutzig  284. 

Nachtigallenthal  77. 
Nackenheim  243. 
Nagold,  the  306.  325. 
Nahe,  the  116.  147. 
Namedy  61. 
Nancy  150. 
Nantersburg,  the  186. 
Napoleonsinsel  282. 
Nassau  195. 
— ,  castle  of  195. 
Nassauer  Berg,  the  196. 
National  Monument 
(Niederwald)  123. 
Natzweiler  285. 
Nauheim  (Taunus)  54. 

—  (near  Darmstadt)  224. 
Nebing  277. 

Xeckar,  the  239.  233. 
Neckarelz  240. 
Neckargemiind  239. 
Neckargerach  240. 
Neckarhausen  239. 
Neckarsteinach  239. 
Neef  175. 
Neersen  48.  45.  49. 


Neerwinden  2. 
Nehren  174. 
Neidenbach  184. 
Neidenfels,  ruin  255. 
Neidenstein  240. 
Neidingen  350. 
Nennig  169. 
Neroberg,  the  135. 
Nerother  Kopf,  the  187. 
Nessonvaux  a. 
Nette,  the  62.  65.  86. 
Netterhof,  the  62. 
Nettersheim  181. 
Neuberg,  the  179. 
Neu-Blankenhain  182. 
Neu-Breisach  334. 
Neuburg  261. 

•,  abbey  239. 
— ,  the  (Neckarelz)  240. 
Neudorf  121.  128. 
Neu-Eberstein  323. 
Neuenahr  82. 
Neuenburg  282. 
Neuenburg  306. 
Neuendorf  64. 
Neuenfels  363. 
Neuenhain  218. 
Neuenheim  227.  238. 
Neuenweg  357. 
Neu-Filzen  179. 
Neuhaus    (near    Baden) 

322. 

—  (Black  Forest)  341. 
Neuhausen  367. 
Neuhemsbach  150. 
Neu-Katzenellenbogen 

106. 
Neulussheim  243. 
Neumagen  180. 
Neumagen-Bach,  the  365. 
Neumiihl  (Eifel)  190. 

—  (Alsace)  276. 

—  (Black  Forest)  365. 
Neun-Aussichten,    the 

226. 

Neunkirch  367. 

Neunkirchen  (Nahe  Val- 
ley) 154. 

—  (Eifel)  187. 

—  (Heller  Valley)  53. 
Neunkircher  Hone  228. 
Neun  Kriimme  228. 
Neun-Linden  333. 
Neuntenstein  291. 
Neu-$aarwerden  277. 
Neu-Scheuern  277. 
Neuss  45.  48. 
Neustadt  on  the  Haardt 

250. 

—  an  der  Miimling  230. 
Neuweier  320. 
Neuweiler  274. 
Neuwerk  45.  48.  49. 


Neuwied  62.  65.  70. 
Neu-Windeck  326. 
Nickenicher    Weinberg 

86. 
Nicolaus-Lei  178. 
Nidda,  the  54.  214. 
Nideck  286.  288. 
— ,  the  285. 
Nideggen  12. 
Niederberg  97. 
Niederbettingen  182. 
Niederbiber  63. 
Niederbrechen  220. 
Niederbreisig  60.  65.  69. 
Niederbronn  273. 
Niederbruck  305. 
Niederburg(Rudesh.  )106. 
— ,  the  117.  171. 
Niederdollendorf  68.   55. 
Niederehe  182. 
Niederemmel  179. 
Nieder-Ernst  174. 
Niederfell  171. 
Niederflorsheim  248. 
Niedergladbach  112. 
Nieder-Hammerstein  61. 

69. 
Niederharmersbach  343. 
Nieder-Haslach  285. 
Niederhausen  150. 
—  (Odenwald)  228. 
Niederheimbach  112. 125. 
Nieder-Hochstadt  217. 
Nieder-Ingelheim  125. 
Nieder-Kestert   104. 
Niederlauchen  302. 
Niederlahnstein  98.  126. 

191. 
Nieder-Lutzingen  88. 
Niedermendiug  86. 
Niedermohr  256. 
Niedermahle  361. 
Niedermiinster  289. 
Niedernhausen  220. 
Nieder-Olm  248. 
Nieder-Otrott  289. 
Nieder-Ramstadt  230. 
Niederrad  213. 
Nieder-Saulheini  248. 
Niederschlettenbach  264. 
Nieder-Schopfheim  327. 
Niedersch worst adt  366. 
Niederselters  220. 
Niederspay  101. 
Nieder-Stinzel  277. 
Niederwald,  the  122. 
Niederwalluf  121. 
Niederwasser  347. 
Niederweiler  363. 
Niederwerth,  island  64. 

70. 
Nieder-Wdllstadt  54. 
Niederzissen  88. 


382 


INDEX. 


Niers,  the  46. 
Nierstein  243. 
Nieukerk  46. 
Nippes  44. 

Nirmer  Tunnel,  the  11. 
Nittel  169. 
Nixburg  300. 
Nohner  Miihle  182. 
Noisseville  159. 
Noll,  the  284. 
Nollen,  the  251. 
Nollingen,  castle  112. 
Nonnenbachthal,  the  350. 
Nonnenwerth  56.  66.  69. 
Nonnenstromberg,  the80. 
Nonrod  290. 
Nord-Canal,  the  49. 
Nordrachthal ,    the   345, 
Norf  45. 
Norheim  150. 
Nothberg  11. 
Nothgottes,  mon.,  118. 
Nothhausen  63. 
Nothachrei,  Am  352. 
Nothweiler  264. 
Notre   Dame   des    Trois 

Epis  299. 
Nouilly  159. 
Noveant  157.  160. 
Nurburg  182. 
— ,  the  85. 

Nurnberger  Hof,  the  121. 
Nuasbach  348. 

Oberachern  341. 
Ober-Aha  356. 
Oberbeuern  320. 333. 
Oberbiber  63. 
Oberbollen  357. 
Oberbrechen  220. 
Oberbruck  305. 
Oberburg,  tower  117. 
— ,  the  171. 

Obercassel  (near  Diissel- 
dorO  45. 

—  (near  Bonn)  68.  55. 
Oberdiebach  112. 
Oberdollendorf  68. 
Oberehe  182. 
Ober-Ehnheim  287. 
Ober-Emmel  161. 
Ober-Ernst  174. 
Oberfell  171. 
Oberhambach  251. 
Ober-Hammerstein  61.69. 
Oberharmersbach  343. 
Oberhaslach  285. 
Oberhausen  (near  Dais- 
burg)  16.  49. 

—  (Nahe  Valley)  150. 

—  (nearBergzabern)  262. 

—  (Odenwald)  228. 
Oberheimbach  125. 


Oberheubronn  364.  357. 
Oberhof  274. 
Oberhollsteig  353. 
Oberhombarg  155. 
Obcr-Ingelheim  125. 
Ober-Kail  190. 
Oberkirch  342. 
Oberlahnstein  99.  127. 
Oberlahnsteiner  Forst- 

haus  101. 
Oberlanchen  302. 
Oberlauchringen  367. 
Ober-Liitzingen  88. 
Ober-Maubach  12. 
Obermendig  89. 
Obermoschel  150. 
Obernau  231. 
Obernburg  231. 
Oberndorf  346. 
Oberneisen  197. 
Obernhausen  230. 
Obernhof  196. 
Ober-Otrott  289. 
Ober-Bamstadt  230. 
Oberried  352. 
Ober-Sackingen  366. 
Ober  -  Schonmattenwag 

229. 
Ober-Simonswald  351. 
Oberspay  101. 
Obersteigen  276. 
Oberstein  153. 
Obersteinbach  264. 
Oberthal  339. 
— ,  the  348. 
Obertsroth  337. 
Obertiillingen  358. 
Oberursel  215. 
Oberweiler  363. 
Oberwerth  98. 
Oberwesel  108.  125. 
Oberwinter  57.  69. 
Oberwolfach  346. 
Ober-Zissen  88. 
Obrigheim  240. 
Ochsenstein  276. 
Ockenfels  59. 
Odendorf  181. 
Odenkirchen  11. 
Odenwald,  the  227. 
Oderen  305. 
Odilienberg,  the  290. 
Odilienbrunnen  290. 
Odrang,  the  184. 
Oeflingen  359. 
Oelbach,  the  316. 
Oelberg,  the  Great  79. 
Oestrich  119.  127. 
Oetringen  167. 
Ofenkaulenberg,  the  79. 
Offenbach  151. 
Offenburg  327. 
Offenthaler  Hof  106. 


Ofteringen  367. 

Oggersheim  244. 

Ohligsberg,  the  179. 

Ohligs-Wald  50. 

Olbriick,  castle  88. 

Olefthal,  the  181. 

Olpe  51. 

Oos  314. 

— ,  the  316. 

Opel,  the  152. 

Opladen  50. 

Oppenau  343. 

Oppenheim  243. 

Oppum  45. 

Oranienstein  197. 

Orbey  297. 

Orscholz  161. 

Orechweier  327. 

Orsoy  16. 

Ortenau,  the  327. 

Ortenberg  (Black  Forest) 
345. 

Ortenburg,  castle  (Al- 
sace) 287. 

Osterath  45. 

Osterspay  102., 

Ostheim  278. 

Osthofen  244. 

Ottenhofen  341. 

Otterberg  255. 

Otteraweier  326. 

Ottersweiler  286. 

Ottmarsheim  282. 

Ottweiler  154. 

Otzberg,  the  230. 

Ourthe,  the  3. 

Fagny  160. 
Palenberg  47. 
Pallien  166. 
Papenkaul,  the  183. 
Papiermiihle  286. 
Paris,  abbey  296. 
Patersberg  106. 
Paulinenberg,  the  130. 
Pelage,  the  291. 
Pelm  182. 
Peltre  155. 
Pepinster  3. 
Perl  169. 

Petersau,  the  122. 
Peteroberg,  the  (near 

Goblenz)  95. 
— ,  —  (Seven  Mts.)  80. 
— ,  —  (near  Alzey)  248. 
— ,  —  (on   the    Moselle) 

175. 
Peterskopf,  the  250. 
Peterspay  101. 
Petersthal  344. 
Peterzell  349. 
Petrusbach.  the  168. 
Pfaffendorf  96.  126. 


INDEX. 


383 


Pfaffendorfer  Hohe,  the 

97. 
Pfaffenrdttchen  08. 
Pfahlgraben,  the  61. 216 
Pfalz,  the  108. 
Pfalzburg  276. 
Pfalzel  176.  180. 
Pfalzgrafenstein  106. 
Pfeddersheim  244. 
Pfinz,  the  306. 
Pfirt  282. 
Pforzheim  306. 
Pfriembach,  the  248. 
Pfungstadt  224. 
Philippsburg(Alsace)  273. 
—  (Baden)  243.  306. 
Philippshalle  249. 
Philippsheim  182. 
Pirmasenz  262. 
Pisdorf  277. 
Pisport  180. 
Plaidt  86. 
PlaidterHummerich,  the 

62.  86. 
Plankstadt  240. 
Platte,  the  13a    136. 
Plettenberg  51. 
Plittersdorf  (near  Bonn) 

55. 
Plixburg  301. 
Point  du  Jour  158. 
Polich  18a 
Poltersdorf  174. 
Pommerbach,  the  173. 
Pommern  173. 
Pont-a-Mousson  160. 
Poppelsdorf  74. 
Porz  55. 

Poutroye,  La  297. 
Prag  359. 

Pragbach,  the  357.  359. 
Prath  101. 
Prechthal,  the  347. 
Preuschdorf253. 
Prinzenkopf,    the  (near 

Alf)  175.  176. 
— ,— (at  Bingerbriick)125. 
Priim  183. 
Pulverhahn,  the  81. 
Pulvermaar,  the  189. 
Pulverthal,  the  167. 
Piinderich  177. 
Piitzfeld  85. 
Pyrmont,  ruin  172. 

Queich,  the  252. 260. 261. 
Querben  302. 
Quiddelbaeh  85. 
Quint,  the  180. 

Rachtig  179. 
Radolfzell  368. 
Bahrbacher  Hohe  51. 


Rambach  135. 
Bamersdorf  55. 
Bamstein  256. 

,  castle  184.  287. 
Bandeck,  ruin  150. 
Banrupt  285. 
Bappoltsweiler  294. 
Rasselstein  63. 
Bastatt  313. 
Bathsamhausen  289. 
Bathsamhausenstein  291. 
Bauenmunzach,  the  338. 
Bauenthal  121.  128. 
— ,  the  293. 
Baunheim  213. 
Bauschemuhle,  the  86. 
Ravengiersburg  152. 
Bayennathal,  the  353. 
Bech  84. 
Rechicourt  277. 
Reeberg,  the  15. 
Bees  15. 

Refferscheid  181. 
Rehberg,  the  (near  Ann 

weiler)  263. 
Behweiler  256. 
Beichartshausen  119. 
Beichelsheim  231.  230. 
Beichenau  368. 
— ,  island  368. 
Beichenbach  (Murgthal) 

339 

—  (Odenwald)  226.  228. 

—  (Schiitterthal)  345. 

—  (near  WUdbad)  325. 
Reichenbachthal,  the  347. 
Beichenberg,ruin(Bhine) 

107. 

—  (Odenwald)  231. 
Reichenstein,    ruin 

(Bhine)  113. 
Beichenthal  337. 
Beichenweier  296. 
Beichsbusch,  the  11. 
Beichshofen  273. 
Beifenberg,  ruin  70. 
Beiherhalde  240. 
Beil  175.  177. 
Beiler  Hals^the  177. 
Beilkirch  177. 
Beimerzhofen  84. 
Beinerzau,  the  346. 
Beinhardslust  186. 
Beinhardsmiinster  276. 
Beinhartshausen  120. 
Beinheim  230.  256. 
Beinsport  179. 
Beisberg,  the  296. 
Beisdorf  167. 
Beissen  229. 
Bemagen  57.  66. 
Bemilly  155.  277. 
RemateckerHof,  the  170, 


Bench,  the  342. 
Benchen  326. 
Renchthal,  the  326. 
Renneberg,  the  60.  70. 
Betournemer ,  lake  301. 
Beudelsterz  87. 
Beuschenberg  21. 
Rezonville  168. 
Rheinau,  island  119. 
Bheinbach  181. 
Bheinberg,  chat.  121. 
Bheinboller  Foundry, the 

111. 
Bheinbreitbach  57.  69. 
Bheinbrohl  60.  65.  69. 
Bheindahlen  48. 
Bheindiebach  111. 
Bheineck  60.  65.  69.  88. 
Bheinfelden  366. 
Bheinfels  105. 
Bheingau.  the  118. 
Bheingonheim  250. 
Bheingrafenstein  148. 
Bheinhausen  45. 
Rheinkopf,  the  302. 
Bheinsheim  243.  306. 
Bheinstein  113. 
Bheinweiler  335. 
Bhftinzabern  261. 
Bhens  100.  124. 
Bheydt  48. 

Bhine,  Falls  of  the  367. 
Rhine-Marne-Canal   275. 

277. 
Bhine-Bhone-Canal,  the 

281. 
Bhodt  252. 
Bhondorf  56.  68. 
Ribeauvilld  294. 
Bichterich47. 
Bickelshausen  388. 
Biedselz  253. 
Biegel  327. 
Biehl  26. 
Biehen  358. 
Riesensaule,  the  228. 
Bietburg,  the  252. 
Bilchingen  274. 
Bimbach  (Alsace)  305. 
—  (Odenwald)  229. 
Bimburg  47. 
Bimmerich,  the  187. 
Binken,  Auf  dem  355. 
Binnthal  261. 
Biol  180.  * 

Rippburg,  the  252. 
Bippoldsau  347. 
Bissbach  178. 
Bittershausen  51. 
Bittersturz,  the  94. 
Bizheim  282. 
Bixingen  277. 
Boche  du  Diable,  the  301. 


384 


INDEX. 


Rochuscapelle,  the  116. 

Rockenhausen  150.  248. 

Rockeskyll  187. 

Rodalben  262. 

Rodau  230. 

Rodeck  341. 

Rodelheck,  the  186. 

Rbdelheim  215. 

Rodenstein,  ruin  230. 231. 

Roderberg,  the  57. 

Roer,  the  12. 

Roes  172. 

Roeschwoog  261. 

Rohmatt  357. 

Rohrbach  252.  273. 

Rohrhardtsberg  348. 

Roggenbacher  Schlosser, 
the  354. 

Roisdorf  67. 

Roland  Arch  56. 

Rolandseck  56.  66.  69. 

Rolandswerth  56. 

Rolduc  147. 

Roll,  the  304. 

Romanaweiler  286. 

Rbmerkessel,  the  185. 

Romersberg,  the  189. 

Rommersdorf  56.  69. 

— ,  abbey  70. 

Roncourt  158. 

Rondel,   the  (Binger- 
briick)  125. 

Ronheide  10. 

Roodt  167. 

Roosendaal  15. 

Rosenau,  Mt.  80. 

Rosenburg,  the  75. 

Rosengarten247.  224. 

Rosenhbhe  224. 

Rosenthal,  convent  173. 

Rosheim  286. 

R os 8 berg,  the  305. 

Rossbiihl,  the  343. 

Rossel,  the  123. 

— ,  —  (stream)  155. 

Rossert,  the  220. 

Rosskopf.  the  333. 

Rosport  167. 

Rossstein,  the  107. 

Roth  188. 

Rothau  285. 

Rothbach,  the  303. 

Rothe  Kreuz  (near  Wies- 
baden) 136. 

(Taunus)  219. 

Rothekreuzkopf,  the  130. 

Rothe  Lay,  the  170. 

Rothemiihle  51. 

Rothenbach  325. 

Rothenfels  (Black Forest) 
314. 

— ,  the  (Nahe)  149. 

Rothenkreuz  354. 


Rothe  Saar,  the  284. 
Rothe  Wasen,  the  305. 
Roihhaus  354. 
Rothlach  291. 
Rothwiese,  the  357. 
Rotteln,  Schloss  358. 
Rotterdam  13. 
Rottger  Schloss  11. 
Rottlerweiler  358. 
Rozerleulles  158. 
Riidesheim  116.  127. 
Rudesheimer  Berg,   the 

114. 
Rufach  280. 
Ruhr,  the  16.  49.  51. 
Ruhrort  49. 
Ruhstein,  the  839. 
Riilzheim  261. 
Rumbach  263. 
Rumbachthal,  the  292. 
Rumpelskeller  136. 
Riingsdorf  55. 
Runkel  198. 
Riisselsheim  213. 
Ruwer  180. 

Saalburg.  the  216. 

Saalhof  60. 

Saar,  the   155.   160.  169. 

277. 
Saar-Alben  277. 
Saarbriicken  154. 
Saarburg  (Alsace)  277. 

—  (Prussia)  161. 
Saargemiind  273. 
Saarlouis  160. 
8aar-Union  277. 
Saarwerden  277. 
Sachaenhausen  207.  202. 
Sackingen  366. 
Saffenburg,  the  84. 
Sahler  Foundry,  the  111. 
Saig  ao4. 

St.  All  158. 
A  mar  in  304. 

—  Amarinthal  303. 

—  Arnual  155. 

—  Avoid  155. 
Barbeln  166.      * 
Blaise  285. 
Blasien  360. 
Catherine,  chapel  333. 

—  Chrischona  358. 

—  Die"  293.  297. 
Georgen  348. 

—  Goar  104.  125. 

—  Goarshausen  108.  127. 
Hubert  158. 
Ingbert  256. 

—  Johann  (near  Saar- 
briicken) 154. 

—  (near  Zabern)  276. 

—  (near  Mayen)  87. 


St.  John,  church  98. 

—  Lambrecht  256. 
Landolin  327. 

—  Louis  282. 

—  Ludwig  282. 

—  Marcel  158. 

—  Margen  353. 

—  Martin  252. 

—  Maurice  305. 

—  Maximin,  abbey  166. 

—  Morita  292. 

—  Nabor  289. 

—  Oswald  353. 

—  Ottilien  333. 
Panlin  166. 

—  Philip  293. 

—  Pilt  278. 
Pri  vat-1  a-Mon  tagn  e 

158. 
Sebastian  64. 

—  Sebastianscapelle    (at 
Dambach)  287. 

—  Thomas,  monast.  184. 
Trudpert  365. 
Ulrichs-Burg  295. 
Wendel  153. 
Wilhelmsthal  356. 

Ste.  Croix-aux-Mines  292. 

—  Marie-aux-Chdnes  158. 

—  Marie-aux-Mines  293. 
Salm,  castle  285. 

— ,  the  176.  180. 
Salmrohr  176.  180. 
Salmthal,  the  190. 
Salzbach,  the  132. 
Saleig  104. 
Salzkopf,  the  125. 
Sand  325.  338. 
Sandau,  island  119. 
Sandplacken  219. 
Sarreguemines,  see 

Saargemiind. 
Sasbach  326. 
Sasbachwalden  326. 
Satzvey  181. 
Sauer.  the  112.  167.  253. 


Sauerburg,  castle  112. 
Sauersberg,  the  319. 
Sauerthal  130.  112. 
Saurenberg,  the  77. 
Saussenberg  364. 
Saut  des  Cuves,  the  301. 
Saverne,  see  Zabern. 
Savoureuse,  the  282. 
Saxler  189. 
Sayn  70.  64. 
Saynbach,  the  64.  70. 
Schadeck  198. 
— ,  the  (Neckarsteinacu) 

239. 
Schaerbeek  2. 
Schafberg,  the  322. 


INDEX. 


385 


Schaferbof  276. 
Schaferplatz  276. 
Schaffhausen  367. 
.Sehaidt  253. 
Schalkenmehren  188. 
Scballerberg,  the  81. 

Schallstadt  334. 

Schapbach  346. 

Scbarfenberg,  ruin  262. 

Scharfeneck,  ruin  252. 

Scharfenstein  (Black 
Forest)  365. 

—  (Nassau)  121. 

Scharlachkopf.  the  116. 

Scharrachbergheim  286. 

Scharteberg,  the  187. 

Scharzhof  161. 

Schauenburg,  rain  342. 

Schau-ins-Land,  the  333. 

Schaumberg,  the  154. 

Schaumburg  197. 

Scheffelsee  366. 

Schehlingen  333. 

Scheid  196. 

Scheldt  256. 

Schelzberg  326. 

Schenkenzell  346. 

Scherhohl  253. 

Scherweiler  287. 

Scheuern  322. 

Scheuren  57. 

Schieburg  169. 

Schiereck  285. 

Schierstein  121. 

Schifferstadt  250. 

Schiltach  346.  347. 

Schiltigheim  261. 

Schinneck  284. 

Schladern  53. 

Schlaferskopf,  the  136. 

Schlangenbad  128. 

Schlebusch  50. 

Schlechtnau  357. 

Schleich  180. 

"Schleiden  181. 

Schleitheim  367. 

Schlettstadt  278. 

Schliengen  335. 

Schlierbach  239. 

Schlossberg ,    the    (Frei- 
burg) 332. 

— ,  —  (Kreuznach)  148. 

— ,  —  (Wildenstein)305. 

Schlosswald  300. 

Schluchsee  354. 

Schlucht,  the  301. 

Schliicht,  the  361. 

Schmalbach  320.  338. 

Schmalenstein  306. 

Schmelzer-Thal  80. 

Schmelzwasen  901. 

Schmidburg,  the  152. 

Schmidtheim  182. 
Baedekbb's  Rhine. 


Schneeberg,  the  288. 
Schneidhain  220. 
Schneifel,  the  185. 
Schnellerts,  ruin  231. 
Schnierlach  297. 
Schbllenbach  232. 
Schonach  348. 
Schonachthal,  the  347. 
Schonau  (Odenwald)  230. 

—  (Palatinate)  263. 

—  (Wiesenthal)  357. 
Schonberg  (Hessen)  226. 

—  (Black  Forest)  345. 
— ,  ,the  (near  Baden)  322. 
— ,  —  (near  Freiburg)  333, 
Schonburg,  ruin  106. 
Schonebach  361. 
Schoneberg  365. 
Schoneck,  chateau  172. 
Schonenbuchen  357. 
Schonengrund  338. 
Schonfels  169. 
Schonmiinzach  338. 

— ,  the  338.  339. 
Schonstatt  71. 
Schonstein,  chateau  53. 
Schonthal  12. 
— ,  the  251. 
Schonwald  350. 
Sehopfheim  358. 
Schopperten  277. 
Schramberg  347. 
Schriesheim  227. 
Schubergsfelsen  363. 
Schuld  85. 
Schurmsee,  the  338. 
Schutterthal.  the  345. 
Schutzalf  186. 
Schwabenschanze  343. 
Schwabweiler  253. 
Schwalbach  129. 
— ,  Burg  197. 
Schwanheim  213. 
Schwarza ,  the  361. 
Schwarzach,  the  356. 
Schwarzbach,  the  (Tau- 

nus)  219. 
— ,  —  (Black  Forest)  339. 
Schwarz-Rheindorf  55. 
Schwarzenacker  256. 
Schwarzenberg  338. 
Schwarzenborn  190. 
Schwarzenburg,  ruin  300. 
Schwarze  See,  the  298. 
Schwarzhalde,  the  355. 
Schwarzsee  366. 
Schwedenschanze  343. 
Schweich  176. 
Schweighausen  273. 
Schweighof  363. 
Schweizerthal,  the  (near 

St.  Goar)  106. 
— ,  —  (near  Ems)  196. 
8th  Edit. 


Schwelm  51.     - 
Schweppenhausen  111. 
Schweppenburg,  the  88. 
Schwetzingen  240. 
Sechtem  67. 
Seebach  339. 
— ,  the  305.  340.  346.  355. 
Seebrugg  355. 
Seebuck,  the  356. 
Seeheim  225. 
Seelach,  the  320. 
Seelenborn  219. 
Segendorf  63. 
Sehl  174. 
Sehringen  364. 
Seipelseckle  340. 
Selighof.  the  321. 
Sellhof  69. 
Selz  248.  261. 
Sembach  150. 
Senhals  174. 
Senheim  174. 
Sennheim  303. 
Sentheim  305. 
Serva,  Cascade  de  la  285. 
Servance,  Ballon  de  305. 
Servigny  159. 
Sesenheim  261. 
Seven  Mountains,  the  76. 
Seven  Virgins,  the  107. 
Sewen  305. 
Sewensee,  the  305. 
Siebeldingen  261. 
Siebeneebirge  76. 
Siedelflbrunn  230. 
Sieg,  the  52.  68. 
Siegburg  52.  68. 
— ,  abbey  52.  55. 
Siegen  51. 

Siegfriedsbrunnen  255. 
Sierck  169. 
Sierentz  282. 
Sigolsheim  296. 
Simmerbach,  the  152. 
Simmern  152. 
Simonswald  351. 
Singen  350.  368. 
Sinn  53. 
Sinzheim  325. 
Sinzig  60.  65.  69. 
Sire,  the  167. 
Sirnitz  364. 
Sobernheim  151. 
Soden  217. 
Soersthal,  the  10. 
Soetern  153. 
Sohlberg,  the  342. 
Solingen  50. 
Sollig,  the  175. 
Sollingen  306. 
Sommerau  348. 
Sondernaoh  302. 
Sondernheim  261. 

25 


386 


IWDEX. 


Sonnenberg,  ruin  135. 
Sonsbeek  15. 
Sooneck  113. 
Soon  w  aid,  the  152. 
Sophienruhe  (near 
Baden)  321. 

—  (Badenweiler)  363. 
Spangenburg,  ruin  255. 
Sparsbrod  276. 
8peicher  184. 
Speierskopf  136. 
8pesburg  291. 
8peyer  267. 

Speyerbach.  the  261. 265. 
Spicheren  164. 
Spielweg,  Am  366. 
Spires  257. 

Spitzenstein.  the  106. 
Sponeck,  rum  334. 
Sponheim  161. 
Sporkenburg,  the  194. 
Sprendlingen  247. 
Springirsbach  176.  177. 
Sprink  186. 
Stadtkyll  182. 
Stahlberg,  castle  HI. 
Stahleck,  castle  111. 
Stammheim  21. 
Starkenburg,  the  (Hes- 

sen)  226. 

—  (Moselle)  178. 
Staudernheim  161. 
Staufen(Munsterthal)366. 

—  (near  Brenden)  361. 
— ,  the  (Taunus)  220. 
— ,  the  (near  Thann)  304. 
— ,  the  Grosse  322. 

— ,  the  Kleine  322. 
Staufenberg  (Baden)  322. 
— ,  castle  326. 
8taufenburg,  the  365. 
Steeg  111. 

Steeger-Thol  110.  111. 
Steele  50. 
Steige  285. 
Stein,  Burg  (Nassau)  196. 

—  (near  Sayn)  70. 
Steinach  346. 

— ,  the  230. 
Steinachmvihle  364. 
Steinachthal  364.  359. 
Steinau  228. 
Steinbach  326. 

—  (Odenwald)  231. 
Steinbeck  60. 
Steinberg,  the  120.  118. 
Ste  inborn  187. 
Steinbure  274. 
Steinen  366 
Steinfeld  181.  263. 
8tein-Kallenfels  162. 
Steinwenden  266. 
Steinthal  285. 


Steinweg,  the  72. 
Stenzelberg,  the  80. 
Sterkrade  16.  49. 
Stern-See,  the  305. 
Sternerhutte,  the  60. 
Sterrenberg  108. 
Stetten  368. 
Stiring  155. 
Stockborn,  the  219. 
Stockhausen  198. 
Stockstadt  213. 
Stolberg  11. 
Stolseneck  240. 
Stolzenfels  98. 
Storkensauen  306. 
Stossweier  300. 
Stotzheim  287. 
Strahlenburg,  the  227. 
Strassburg  264. 
Strengbach,  the  293. 
Strohn  186. 
Strohner  Maar  189. 
Stromberg  111. 
Strotzbusch  186. 
Stuben,  monast.  174. 
SttLhlingen  367. 
Sufflenheim  261. 
Suggenthal  362. 
8ulz  (Upper  Vosges)  302. 

—  unter  dem  Walde  263. 
Sulzbach   (near  Aschaf- 

fenburg)  231. 

—  (Alsace;  300. 

—  (Baden)  343. 

—  (on  the  Nahe)  163. 

—  (near  Saarb  ruck  en)  154. 

—  (near  8oden)  218. 
— ,  the  128.  217. 
Sulzbad  286. 
Sulzbnrg  335. 

8ulzer  Belchen,  the  304. 
Sulzern  300. 
Sulzmatt  280. 
Sundgau,  the  281.  282. 
Sundhofen  334. 
Sure,  the  167.  169. 
Siirth  55. 


Tannenberg  225. 
Tannenfels  339. 
Tannchel,  the  294. 
Taubenschlagfelsen  274. 
Taunus,  the  214. 
Teinach  325. 
Tellberg,  the  89. 
Tempelhof,  the  60. 
Temple  (Niederw.)  124. 
Teufelsberg,  the  262. 
Teufelskaderich,  the  117. 
Teufelskanzel  (near 

Adenau)  86. 
—  (near  Baden)  321. 


Teufelsleiter  265. 
Teufelsmiihle,  the  323. 
Teufelsstein,  the  250. 
Thai  Ehrenbreitetein  96. 
Thai  Veldenz  179. 
Thann  303. 
Thanoenkirch  294. 
Thanweiler  292. 
Thayingen  368. 
Theisbergstegen  256. 
Thennenbronn  347. 
Theodorshalle  148. 
Thienen  2. 
Thiengen  367. 
Thiergarten  47. 
Thionville  160.  169. 
Tholey  164. 
Thornich  180. 
Thron  180. 
Thur,  the  303. 
Thurant,  ruin  171. 
Thurmberg,  the  306. 
Thurnberg,  rain  104. 
Thurner,  the  353. 
Thuron,  ruin  171. 
Tiefenbach  263. 
Tiefenbachthal.  the  179. 
Tiefenhausern  361. 
Tiefenstein  361. 
Tiefenthal  128. 
Tirlemont  2. 
Titisee,  the  364. 
Todtmoos  369. 
Todtmoos-Au  359. 
Todtnau  867. 
Todtnauberg  357. 
Todtnauer  Hutte  366. 
Tomberg,  ruin  82. 
Tomburg  181. 
Tonchesberg,  the  86. 
Tonnerre,  Mont  248. 
Tonnis8tein,  bath  88. 
Traben  178. 

Trabener  Berg,  the  178. 
Traisa  230. 
Trarbach  178. 
Trauerbuche  136. 
Trautzberg  186. 
Trechtlingshausen  113. 
Treis  173. 
Treves  161. 
Triberg  347. 
Triembach  292. 
Trier  161. 
Trifels  262. 
Trimborn  10. 
Trips,  chateau  47. 
Trittenheim  180. 
Troisdorf  62. 
Trois  Epis  299. 
—  Vierges  169. 
Trompet  49. 
Troneck  180. 


INDEX. 


387 


Truttenhausen  289. 
Trutz-Eltz  172. 
Tschifflik  262. 
Tuni-Berg,  the  334.     • 
Turkheim  299. 
Tiirkismilhle  163. 

UeberlingerSee,  the  368. 
Uedem  48. 
Uederedorf  189. 
Uehlingen  361. 
Uelmen  188. 
Uelmener  Maar  188. 
TJerdingen  46.  49. 
Uerzig  176.  178.  179. 
Uesbach,  the  186. 
Ulflingen  169. 
Unkel  67.  69. 
Unter-Aha  364.  366. 
Unter-Barmen  80. 
Unter-Beuern  319. 
TJntereggingen  367. 
Unter-Grombach  306. 
TJnterhallau  367. 
Unterharmersbachthal , 

the  346. 
Unterlinden  279. 
Unter-Maubach  12. 
Unter-Reidelbach  229. 
Unter-Schonmattenwag 

229. 
Unteraee,  the  368. 
Unter-Simonswald  361. 
UnterwaMerthal,  the  341 . 
Urbach  285.  297. 
Urbar  64. 
Uibeis  297. 
Urbis  304. 
Urft  181. 
Urmatt  284. 
Urmitz  64.  66. 
Urnagold  339. 
Utrecht  14. 
Utach  184. 
TJtzenfeld  367.  366. 

Val  Benoit,  Pont  du  3. 
Val  de  Ville  292. 
Vallendar  70.  64. 
Valwig  174. 
Vaadrefange  161. 
Vecht,  the  14. 
Veenendaal  14. 
Veitskopf,  the  88. 
Veldenz  179. 
Velp  16. 
Veluwe,  the  14. 
Vendenheim  264. 
Venlo  49. 

Ventron,  Col  du  302.  * 
Verneville  168. 
Vernich  181. 
Verviers  3. 


Vesdre,  the  3. 
Vettweis  181. 
Vianden  167. 
Victoriaberg,  the  68. 
Victoriabrunnen  100. 
Vierortsbad  307.  313. 
Vieille-Montagne  3. 
Viersen  49. 
Vilbel  64. 
Ville  292. 
Villingen  349. 
Villmar  198. 
Vionville  159. 
Virneberg  69. 
Vogelbach/364. 
Vogelbachthal  363. 
Vogisheim  363. 
Vogtsburg  333. 
Vohrenbach  361. 
Vohwinkel  50. 
Volkersweiler  263. 
Volklingen  160. 
Volcanic  Eifel,  the  186. 
Vollraths  119.  118. 
Volme,  the  51. 
Vologne,  the  301. 
Volpertshansen  199. 
Vorbruck  284. 
Vorder-Langenbach  339. 
Vorder-Seebach  341. 
Vorder-Todtmooe  369. 
Vormthal  346. 
Vorder-Weidenthal  263. 
Vorgebirge,  the  13.  67. 
Vosges,  the  283. 

Wachenheim  (Rhen. 

Hessen)  248. 
—  (Palatinate)  250. 
Wackenbach  286. 
Wachtenburg,  the  260. 
Wadenheim  82. 
Wagcnberg,  the  229. 
Wagensteigthal,  the  363. 
Waghausel  243. 
Wahlenburg  280. 
Wahlheim  248. 
Wahn  62. 
Waibstadt  240. 
Walbach  300. 
Walbnrg  254. 
Waldau  353. 
Waldbroel  63. 
Waldbockelheim  160. 
Waldeck,  the  126. 
— ,  ruin  172. 
Waldersbach  286. 
Waldhof  213. 
Waldkirch  362. 
Wald-Leiningen  231. 
Waldmichelbach  229. 
Waldsberg  290. 
Waldsee,  the  333. 


Waldshut  367. 
WaUdorf  213. 
Wall  erf  an  gen  161. 
Wallersheim  64. 
Wallertheim  247. 
Walporzheim  83. 
Walsche  Belchen  306. 
WaUheim  256. 
Wambach  129. 
Wangen  286. 
Wangenburg  287. 
Wanzell  292. 
Wanzenau  261. 
Warcke,  the  169.     • 
Waremme  2. 
Wartenfltein,  castle  162. 
Wartesberg,  the  186. 
Warth,  the  186. 
Wasen  366. 

Waaen,  the  Bothe  306. 
Waaenberg,  the  273. 
Waaenburg,  the  273. 
Waaenweiler  334. 
Wasgenstein,  the  264. 
Wasselnheim  286. 
Wassenach  88. 
Wasserbillig  167. 
Waaaerlieach  169. 
Weberlei,  the  189. 
Wecker  167. 
Weeze  46. 
Wegberg  48. 
Wegelburg,  the  263. 
Wegscheid  305. 
Wehlen  179. 
Wehr  369. 
Wehra,  the  368. 
Wehra-Strasae  369. 
Wehra-Thal  368.  359. 
Wehrbusch,  the  188. 
Weiden    (near     Aiz  -  la- 

Ghapelle)  11. 
—  (near  Cologne)  44. 
Weidenthal  256. 
Weihennott  276. 
Weier  im  Thai  300. 
Weilach  250. 
Weilbach  214.  231. 
Weilburg  198. 
Weiler  292.  304. 
Weilerswist  181. 
Weilerthal  292. 
Weilthal  196. 
Weinbach  367. 
Weinbiet,  the  261. 
Weinfelder  Maar  188. 
Weingarten  306. 
Weinheim  226. 
Weiaenau  243. 
Weisenheim  244. 
Weiskirchen  215. 
Weiss,  the  296. 
Weissenbach  337. 

25* 


388 


INDEX. 


Weissenburg  263. 
Weissenfela,  the  1S2. 
Weisaenthunn  64. 
Weiaae  See,  the  296. 
Weiashaua  166. 
Weiaathal,  the  296.  297. 
Weiten  161. 
Weiteraburg  7a 
WeitersUdt  224. 
Weizen  367. 
Wekmund  280. 
Welgeaheim  247. 
Welkenhansen  4. 
Wenen  169. 
Welmich  104.  101.  127. 
Welachbruch  291. 
Welschen-Bnneat  51. 
Wembach,  the  230. 
Wenau  12. 
Wendel  165. 
Wengerohr  176. 
Werdohl  61. 
Werneraeck.  ruin  86. 
Werrach  369. 
Werth  11. 

Weachnitz,  the  226.  229. 
Wesel  15. 
Weaaerling  904. 
Wesaling  56. 
Weatf attache  Au  119. 
Westheim  261. 
Weathofen  286. 
Weatrich,  the  255. 
Wetterberg,  the  262. 
Wetzlar  199.  53. 
Wevelinghoven  12. 
Weyersbach  189. 
Wichelahof,  the  72.  56. 
Wickrath  48. 
Widdig  65. 
Wiebelabach  230. 
Wiebelskirchen  154. 
Wied,  the  62.  63.  70. 
Wieden  365. 
Wiedenereck  333.  368. 
Wierachem  177. 
Wiesbaden  130. 
Wieae,  the  367.  335.  356. 
Wiesenscheid  182. 
Wiesenthal  243. 
-,  the  357.  353. 
Wiesloch  308. 
Wilchingen  367. 
Wildbad  324. 
Wildenburg,  the  153. 173. 
Wildenstein  305. 
Wilde  See,  the  340. 
Wildgutach  351. 
Wildgutachthal,  the  353. 
Wildschapbachthal  344. 


Wildaee,  the  325. 
Wilferdingen  306. 
Willerwald  277. 
Willgartawieaen  261. 
Wilseck  184. 
Wiltingen  161. 
Wilverwilta  169. 
Wils,  the  169. 
Winberg,  the  284. 
Winchringen  169. 
Windeck  (Bergatraaae) 
227. 

—  (Siegthal)  53. 
Winden  (Baden)  313. 

—  (near  Duren)  12. 

—  (Palatinate)  252. 
Windeaheim  ill. 
Windschlag  827. 
Winkel  119.  127. 
Winneburg,  the  173. 
Winningen  170. 
Winnweiler  150. 
Winterberg,  the    (near 

Ems)  194. 
— ,  —  (Saarbrucken)  155. 
Winterlch  179. 
Winterkastener  Hohe 

230. 
Winzenheim  301. 
Winzlngen,  ruin  251. 
Wirft  182. 
Wisch  284. 
Wianeck  353. 
Wiasen  53. 
Wisaort,  the  302. 
Wisperthal,  the  112. 
Wittelaheim  281. 
Wittlich  176. 
Witznauer  Miihle  361. 
Woippy  169. 
Wolf  i78. 
Wolf ach.  346. 
Wolfbach,  the  346. 
Wolferdange  169. 
Wolfhezen  14. 
Wolfiaheim  277. 
Wolfsbrunnen,  the  238. 
Wolfsburg,  rain  255. 
Wolfskehlen  213.  224. 
Wolfakirchen  277. 
Wolfsschlucht,  the  321. 
Wolfsthal,  the  286. 
Wolkenburg,  the  79. 
Wolmsathal,  the  301 
Wolz,  the  169. 
Wonnegau,  the  245. 
Wonaheim  247.  160. 
Worms  244. 
Worringen  44.    y" 
Worrstadt  248. 


Wdrsdorf  220. 
Worth  (Alaace)  253. 

—  (Palatinate)  313.  261. 

—  «Odenwald)  231. 
— ,  chateau  367. 
Wupper,  the  21.  60. 
Wurgeradorf  53. 
Wurm,  the  47. 
Wiirm,  the  306. 
Wiiraelen  11. 
Wiirzbach  266. 
Wutach,  the  367. 
Wyhlen  366. 

Zanten  46. 


Yachthal,  the  348. 
Yburg,  castle  320. 
Yaael,  the  14. 

Zabern  274.  ' 
Zaberner  Senke  274.  276. 
Zahlbach  143.  146. 
Zahringen  328. 
Zarten  362. 
Zastlerthal,  the  356. 
Zauberhohle,  the  123. 
Zavelatein  325. 
Zeiakam  261. 
Zeiat  14. 
Zell  (Alsace)  297. 

—  (Kinzigthal)  345. 

—  (Moselle)  177. 

—  (Mumlingthal)  230. 

—  (Palatinate)  248. 

—  (Wieaenthal)  357. 
Zellenberg  296. 
Zeller  Blauen,  the  358. 
Zeltingen  179. 
Zendacheid  184. 
Zerkall  12. 
Zevenaar  15.  47. 
Zicklenburg  69. 
Ziegelhausen  239. 
Zillisheim  282. 
Zinzelthal,  the  274. 
Zipfen  230. 
Zollhaua  197. 

Zona  44. 

Zorn,  the  254.  262.  276. 
Zotzenheim  247. 
Zdlpich  181. 
Zurlauben  166. 
Zuaenhofen  342. 
Zweibriicken  266. 
Zweibrdggen  47. 
Zweribach,  the  351. 
Zwickgabel  339. 
Zwieaelbach  346. 
Zwingenberg  226.  240. 


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